# [Official] ASUS sabertooth AMD Owners Club



## THC Butterz

Motherboards:

ASUS Sabertooth 990FX

ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2

ASUS Sabertooth 990FX/GEN 3 R2


Requirements to gain Verified status:
Must have a Cpu-z validation matching your OCN username

follow all OCN rulles
and please stay relativly on topic*

* If it portains to your motherboard, overclock, system in general, or a question about a previous post or a question about the motherboard in general its ok, but just to make a point this thread isnt where you tell everybody what your dog had for lunch today

Click here to add yourself to the owners list

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AuRCaZr2OwCTdFhCTFQ4WUxhd2pRbjJPSklaeURiZXc&output=html&widget=true

Important notes:
There is a clear sticker over the south bridge heat sync that may be unseen but its there be sure to remove it as it holds in heat!!!

Windows 8 drivers for Sabertooth R1:

JMicron Controller Driver:
ftp://driver.jmicron.com.tw/SATA_Controller/Windows/JMB36X_WinDrv_R1.17.65_WHQL.zip

ASmedia USB 3 Driver:
https://www.box.com/s/vnb9zxaip364nnb6qlcq

Cooks Info On ECC vs non ECC ram:
http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/1035333-official-asus-sabertooth-990fx-owners-club-100.html#post15370182

ASUS Drivers, utilities and docks can be downloaded here:http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#download

The first AMD motherboard... to enable SLI on an AMD chip-set...
Thanks to the easy to understand UEFI Bios, the easy to spot problem lights, the mem ok button, the built in thermal sensors and user controllable 6 fan headers, this board is not only expensive, its great for overclocking!! All these features flow perfectly together and thanks to the ease of this bord (and a little help from OCN member bradford1040) I went from a beginner overclocker to an intermediate overclocker almost literally over nite!!
I have never been one to get too impressed by a motherboard in the past however I'm willing to comfortably say I'm impressed, dollar for dollar this was an excellent purchase that i believe I'll be satisfied with for a good long time, if you feel the same way and own this board join the club, we would be glad to have you.


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1965113

sig codes
*The OFFICIAL AMD Sabertooth Owners Club* 

Code:



Code:


[CENTER][URL="http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/1035333-asus-sabertooth-990fx-fan-club.html"]:rambo:[FONT=System][B][COLOR=DarkGreen]The OFFICIAL[/COLOR][COLOR=DarkRed]AMD [/COLOR][COLOR=olive] Sabertooth Owners Club  [/COLOR][/B][/FONT]:rambo:[/URL][/CENTER]









*AMD Saber Tooth owners club*









Code:



Code:


[URL="http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/1035333-asus-sabertooth-990fx-fan-club.html"][CENTER]:sozo:[FONT=System][B] AMD  Saber  Tooth  owners club    [/B][/FONT]:sozo:[/CENTER][/URL]

*AMD 990FX SaberTooth* Owners Club

Code:



Code:


[CENTER][URL="http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/1035333-asus-sabertooth-990fx-fan-club.html"]:rambo:[FONT=System][B]AMD 990FX SaberTooth Owners Club[/B][/FONT]:rambo:[/URL][/CENTER]


----------



## SobePmp

I got my Sabertooth today. Gonna install it tomorow.


----------



## kev_b

Got mine today to but my case is in to get powder coated.


----------



## SobePmp

I installed my Sabertooth today using all the same components in my sig. The new BIOS is nice but I'm not used to it so I haven't tried overclocking yet. I noticed the Hard disk score in Windows experience index went from 7.3 to 7.6 since I installed this board.

oh yea...... ADD ME


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SobePmp;13787715*
> I installed my Sabertooth today using all the same components in my sig. The new BIOS is nice but I'm not used to it so I haven't tried overclocking yet. I noticed the Hard disk score in Windows experience index went from 7.3 to 7.6 since I installed this board.
> 
> oh yea...... ADD ME


in the bios there is a feature in the overclocking section of the advanced bios that will scan and apply an automatic overclock... from there you should be able to raise to 4ghz+ without even touching the voltage... adding you to members list


----------



## Bradford1040

I got you the pictures, now dam it put me in lol

I through in a shot of my evo Harley when it was new that was back in 2003 but after all the years other than upgrades and newer stuff it sill looks as good if not better will take newer hots of it when I go down to FL next week to pick up my youngest daughter


----------



## THC Butterz

nice to see a few people joining so soon


----------



## kev_b

Sign me up please.







I'm still waiting on my case to get back from powder coating.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kev_b;13802594*
> Sign me up please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still waiting on my case to get back from powder coating.


do me a fav. after you get up and running tell me how well over the CH:IV it does, and also what hold down is that? does not look like a h70?


----------



## Bradford1040

we need to gang up on THC Butterz BTW guys and gals talk him into buying a Lian Li as so far the guy that started the thread is the only one with out one!


----------



## kev_b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13802633*
> do me a fav. after you get up and running tell me how well over the CH:IV it does, and also what hold down is that? does not look like a h70?


I will when I get my case back and put back together. I am going to be running the 955 BE, the only thing that will be diffrent from my CH-IV will be the memory, I have 4 gig's in my CH-IV, my Sabertooth will have 8 gig's, I screwed up yesterday when I bought what I thought was 2 sticks of ram, (wrong!) I bought 1 stick of 4 gig's so I had to go buy another 4 gig stick today.
That cooler mount is the XIGMATEK Crossbow Ack Ati775 Mounting Kit for AMD, I did have to find some longer screws (3x25mm) for it though to fit the A-70 cooler, the ones in the kit were too short.


----------



## Havoknova

lets go watch the TUF 990x =)

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IT7YSsEFqTk&feature=feedu[/ame]


----------



## Bradford1040

I liked that video, I felt as if I made the right choice now, I was thinking I jumped the gun but other than the LAN and 4 way sli the TUF is about the same as ROG in terms of potential OC'ing and in fact mite even be better as far as longevity


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13803066*
> I liked that video, I felt as if I made the right choice now, I was thinking I jumped the gun but other than the LAN and 4 way sli the TUF is about the same as ROG in terms of potential OC'ing and in fact mite even be better as far as longevity


thats the way I see it, but I dont understand why the back of my saber box says nvidia quad gpu sli on it


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13803783*
> thats the way I see it, but I dont understand why the back of my saber box says nvidia quad gpu sli on it


dual gpu cards


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13803802*
> dual gpu cards


must be, im also wondering how tey could get that rog 4 way addon for sli to fit in a chasis, the mounting brackets for the pcie cards wouldnt line up


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## capitaltpt

So the Sabertooth has been deactivated at Newegg......something we should be concerned about?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt;13806705*
> So the Sabertooth has been deactivated at Newegg......something we should be concerned about?


not to my knowledge ... maybe newegg was just losing money on them and has to crunch some numbers or something... they where offering overnite shiping on them for dirt cheap
either that or nvidia/ati/asus could be having a fight over why the saber currently doesnt support sli at release without a workarround... i dunno


----------



## headmixer

Please Add Me.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1859296


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13807014*
> not to my knowledge ... maybe newegg was just losing money on them and has to crunch some numbers or something... they where offering overnite shiping on them for dirt cheap
> either that or nvidia/ati/asus could be having a fight over why the saber currently doesnt support sli at release without a workarround... i dunno


nope new egg does that when there is no expected restock soon, or if they just don't know mite be a better way of putting it, I have seen that on AMD 1090T a few times and other items don't worry guys it will be back on there


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13810631*
> Updated


weird seeing you post updated lol, I just wanted to see if yours showed SB as 850 as well, it is a rebranded 890/850 but was hoping this board rebranding would be not a issue with CPU-Z like the 780A~980A was it should be SB 950 not 850.


----------



## BladeIII

Just picked up mine today newegg is letting them slip right out like 7 at a time a nice small stock to keep everyone quiet and preserve the NDA:devil:


----------



## BladeIII

I havent actually recieved my board yet but I really need to know if this board posts codes because I havent seen any little lcd or whateve on it but the post code support is a nice feature?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BladeIII;13818793*
> I havent actually recieved my board yet but I really need to know if this board posts codes because I havent seen any little lcd or whateve on it but the post code support is a nice feature?


not to my knowledge... which doesnt nessasarily mean it doesnt, but I dont think so


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BladeIII;13818793*
> I havent actually recieved my board yet but I really need to know if this board posts codes because I havent seen any little lcd or whateve on it but the post code support is a nice feature?


no it dose not have it, but it dose have lights in each item to let you know if there is a problem, I.E. if the pci-e is burnt or not in the lane has a light that tells you there is something wrong


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13790135*
> in the bios there is a feature in the overclocking section of the advanced bios that will scan and apply an automatic overclock... from there you should be able to raise to 4ghz+ without even touching the voltage... adding you to members list


This really gave you a 4Ghz overclock on Auto Overclocking? (which I assume is similar to CPU level up on my Crosshair III)


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt;13823471*
> This really gave you a 4Ghz overclock on Auto Overclocking? (which I assume is similar to CPU level up on my Crosshair III)


I used the auto clock and from there i could eaisly push up to 4+ stable without messing with the voltage, still had to raise the fsb and mult


----------



## RockaHoliK

Hey Guys,

i just got my Sabertooth 990fx but i cant install the asus ai suite 2 under windows 7 64bit.

Is this a common problem or are u guys able to install it?

rockaholik


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockaHoliK;13834730*
> Hey Guys,
> 
> i just got my Sabertooth 990fx but i cant install the asus ai suite 2 under windows 7 64bit.
> 
> Is this a common problem or are u guys able to install it?
> 
> rockaholik


Installed just fine for me under win 7 x64, but i did a clean windows install due to the fact that windows is licensed to the motherbord not the pc


----------



## RockaHoliK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13834813*
> Installed just fine for me under win 7 x64, but i did a clean windows install due to the fact that windows is licensed to the motherbord not the pc


Thanks for the quick answer!

Hm, i build this pc from the ground up so i had to install win7 also.

I downloaded the newest version from the asus page and if i doubleclick the installer i get a error massage

PROBLEMNAME: APPCRASH
FAULT MODULE NAME: KERNELBASE.dll


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockaHoliK;13834922*
> Thanks for the quick answer!
> 
> Hm, i build this pc from the ground up so i had to install win7 also.
> 
> I downloaded the newest version from the asus page and if i doubleclick the installer i get a error massage
> 
> PROBLEMNAME: APPCRASH
> FAULT MODULE NAME: KERNELBASE.dll


Try right clicking and selecting "Run as Administrator"


----------



## RockaHoliK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt;13834967*
> Try right clicking and selecting "Run as Administrator"


Tried it more than once. Doenst work. :-(

After i installed windows i directly installed the drivers from the cd that came with the motherboard. Did you guys do the same or is this the problem?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockaHoliK;13834983*
> Tried it more than once. Doenst work. :-(
> 
> After i installed windows i directly installed the drivers from the cd that came with the motherboard. Did you guys the same or is this the problem?


??


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockaHoliK;13834922*
> Thanks for the quick answer!
> 
> Hm, i build this pc from the ground up so i had to install win7 also.
> 
> I downloaded the newest version from the asus page and if i doubleclick the installer i get a error massage
> 
> PROBLEMNAME: APPCRASH
> FAULT MODULE NAME: KERNELBASE.dll


I had this problem but not when installing it, it was caused by core failures with a heavy overclock, try running it in conbatability mode


----------



## TheDoug

eh go ahead and add me









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1863351


----------



## RockaHoliK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13835050*
> I had this problem but not when installing it, it was caused by core failures with a heavy overclock, try running it in conbatability mode


Doesnt work. :-/


----------



## crossy82

Does this Sabretooth not have that black protective cooling shield thing?I am interested in this mobo but was hoping it would have the shield thing the same as the Intel ones.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crossy82;13836430*
> Does this Sabretooth not have that black protective cooling shield thing?I am interested in this mobo but was hoping it would have the shield thing the same as the Intel ones.


no it doesent but neither do all the intell ones


----------



## fugatron78

Hello all, im planing upgrade to this board vera soon, have some of you tested it with 8GB ram modules ? my goal is 32GB RAM.....
or this option is only usable for new BD cores ????
i do a lot of Phogrametry so please dont ask why so much memory.......
because on qvl on asus say nothing about the 8GB Modules.......
can someone tesst it ?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fugatron78;13837807*
> Hello all, im planing upgrade to this board vera soon, have some of you tested it with 8GB ram modules ? my goal is 32GB RAM.....
> or this option is only usable for new BD cores ????
> i do a lot of Phogrametry so please dont ask why so much memory.......
> because on qvl on asus say nothing about the 8GB Modules.......
> can someone tesst it ?


they dont make them yet do your reasearch before posting a "stupid" question


----------



## fugatron78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13837856*
> they dont make them yet do your reasearch before posting a "stupid" question


hmm stupid questions don´t exist...... just answers 

as far as i know, it should be Registered modules, and they are on market already (server memory), my question go if they can be used in this board... thats all..... an if someone tried this.....


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fugatron78;13837961*
> hmm stupid questions don´t exist...... just answers
> 
> as far as i know, it should be Registered modules, and they are on market already (server memory), my question go if they can be used in this board... thats all..... an if someone tried this.....


I stand corrected
no,i take that back...read the next post, you stand corrected, we did our research


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fugatron78;13837961*
> hmm stupid questions don´t exist...... just answers
> 
> as far as i know, it should be Registered modules, and they are on market already (server memory), my question go if they can be used in this board... thats all..... an if someone tried this.....


well he did not mean most likely to offend you but if you can buy this ram it would be a big help as we could all use the info, I myself have never seen it in person as I don't work at dell or live in Switzerland, BTW while you are looking for this ram on a USA based site or even one that anyone has used and can guarantee that it is not a scam, could you, if you don't mind look up Troll!

Thank You
EDIT: if anyone would really like to see if it does exist there is a reference to some at TD here is the link to this 3,500.00usd ddr3 ramm can you really say troll now lol


----------



## fugatron78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13838387*
> well he did not mean most likely to offend you but if you can buy this ram it would be a big help as we could all use the info, I myself have never seen it in person as I don't work at dell or live in Switzerland, BTW while you are looking for this ram on a USA based site or even one that anyone has used and can guarantee that it is not a scam, could you, if you don't mind look up Troll!
> 
> Thank You
> EDIT: if anyone would really like to see if it does exist there is a reference to some at TD here is the link to this 3,500.00usd ddr3 ramm can you really say troll now lol


OK, so as far as i know here should be used Registered memory modules like this as reference
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007952%20600006072&IsNodeId=1&name=16GB%20%282%20x%208GB%29
or this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820161458
with price around 650 USD, so even the price is not high.
My only questions go if the 32GB option is not reserved for the new BD cores and they new IMC controler OR is this option even for Phenom II CPUs a working way.......


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fugatron78;13841640*
> OK, so as far as i know here should be used Registered memory modules like this as reference
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007952%20600006072&IsNodeId=1&name=16GB%20%282%20x%208GB%29
> or this
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820161458
> with price around 650 USD, so even the price is not high.
> My only questions go if the 32GB option is not reserved for the new BD cores and they new IMC controler OR is this option even for Phenom II CPUs a working way.......


I guess you are just trying to keep pushing this, it is *SERVER* ram not going to work on SaberTooth ok is that plain enough!!! Stop wasting everyone's time, you come on after being a member sinse 2006 and post back then about the 7800 graphic card and then 5 years later you pop on asking about ram that is for servers in a gaming/overclocking board forum go to another thread and ask!! I guess you are just to smart for us, maybe you should listen more and read some more as well as te posts you even put up "in the description" say sever ram only ECC REGISTERED RAM and on any of the phenom II ---AM3 or AM3+ boards read what type of memory it will take NON-ECC ok and just in case anyone reads the ecc part it also follows wit un-buffered which kinda says non-ecc as ecc is buffered

Please stop this now, you are doing nothing to help anyone and you are not proving any points. I understand maybe you missed that part about the non-ecc but now that you know ether become a active participating OCN member or see you in another 5 years, Thank you

EDIT: I answer only because I hate not leaving a question for future readers answered, but I still say you are a *TROLL*


----------



## fugatron78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13843328*
> I guess you are just trying to keep pushing this, it is *SERVER* ram not going to work on SaberTooth ok is that plain enough!!! Stop wasting everyone's time, you come on after being a member sinse 2006 and post back then about the 7800 graphic card and then 5 years later you pop on asking about ram that is for servers in a gaming/overclocking board forum go to another thread and ask!! I guess you are just to smart for us, maybe you should listen more and read some more as well as te posts you even put up "in the description" say sever ram only ECC REGISTERED RAM and on any of the phenom II ---AM3 or AM3+ boards read what type of memory it will take NON-ECC ok
> 
> Please stop this now, you are doing nothing to help anyone and you are not proving any points. I understand maybe you missed that part about the non-ecc but now that you know ether become a active participating OCN member or see you in another 5 years, Thank you


Woooooow....... as far as im know this forum is for all people, with own point of view, im asking because here are a lot of people that trying a lot of things - overclocking, bios mods and etc, so here is a bigest chance to get the right answer for a lot of questions or not ?? or your a best supervisor who control what to ask ???? please stop with this EGO blablabla.......
im repeating, my question go if someone tried it with this sort of memory modules (registered, you can enable or disable ECC if BIOS support it ), because they are used in G34 socket, and therefore is that from my point of view the best chance that AMD will use this sort of modules. The biggest Q go if is this feature of the 990FX chipset or is a feature of the new BDcores in that chipset....... is that so hard to understand ????


----------



## Bradford1040

and just for kicks this is the only one ASUS recommends which you can use but once again will cost you 4,000.00 to put all 32gb if you want to go that route but I doubt it 8GB NON-ECC ram


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fugatron78;13843462*
> Woooooow....... as far as im know this forum is for all people, with own point of view,


yup and my point of view is you are a *TROLL* I do not understand your reluctance to understand that I think you are a *TROLL* do I need to say it some more? why don't you go buy it and tell us that way you can prove how smart you are


----------



## fugatron78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13843528*
> yup and my point of view is you are a *TROLL* I do not understand your reluctance to understand that I think you are a *TROLL* do I need to say it some more? why don't you go buy it and tell us that way you can prove how smart you are


TROLL see everyone as TROLL.......

and Have a nice day.......


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fugatron78;13843622*
> TROLL see everyone as TROLL.......
> 
> and Have a nice day.......


not that I needed to respond to that but, I have never once Trolled!! I would invite you to read any of my posts and you will see I try my best to help even the stupidest things (to some others) but you, to put a blunt point on it, I CAN'T STAND! I think you are wasting everyone's time, tell me do you even work with advanced math or was that just a big word you knew? I would help you if you responded with a real to date question but as of 6/8/2011 that ram just became available in Japan and Switzerland so how would any normal person with a job and bills (which I make very good money) justify buying something that does not even have a review yet (by a big industry) that has its sole purpose to test stuff like that so honest hard working people don't waste there money, buying something that won't work!

Plus you need to get it through your head what OCN is, we are people most in this thread have jobs and can never afford to spend 4,000 or 5,000 on just one item, I think you need to think about all your statements/posts and also remember that we all asked dumb things from time to time but to stick on it after being told it won't work and trying to convince others it mite is Trolling!

Plus call ASUS as I did just to be thorough, and they will giggle and tell you the same as I did NO it WON'T WORK, NON ECC only!!! not turn it off in bios that is not how it works and if you are who you say you are you know that already and once again that is trolling, so stop it is not funny


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

We need to find a way to combine this club with the Sabertooth club that already exists. I know its in the Intel section but it seems silly to have a seperate AMD Sabertooth club. Can the mods figure out a better place to put the Official Sabertooth Club so that all Sabertooth boards are part of the same club?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Hi i have the same problem with freezing, same MB, but CPU is X2 4200, and this is not every time, only ocvcasionaly. i use WaterColling temp are normal on all components, no bug report can be found, is freeze to cca 7-10secods..... PSU is 600W with draw under 450W top...... this is very strange behavior, from HW point.......


was that not you on 04-08-10, 06:28 PM and also
Quote:


> Reid are you going to introduce to the board UEFI BIOS to Classified SR-2 motherboard ?? Saturday, December 04, 2010 11:09 AM (permalink)
> Hello im too interested IF is this the near future feature ?
> this should help to get working more than 10 GPUs


and this question
Quote:


> Hello. im putting info together, is possible to put 3x Nvidia and 4 ATI card for best Open CL performance on this board ? For photogrametry software. the power is for me not a factor.
> The combined performance should be around 20TFlop tht mean i can get output not in hours but in minutes.


so which are you into? math or photo or what 10 gpu's???? wow you got big plans and still have the quad core but if you look you have the x2 on other sites so what is it???

I should call you the ONE POST WONDER! cause you pop up post once and disappear in fact this is about the most you ever posted and also noticed you must of bought some new hardware as you been posting huh? as your video card went from 7800gtx to a 560ti and your hard drive config changed


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric;13843819*
> We need to find a way to combine this club with the Sabertooth club that already exists. I know its in the Intel section but it seems silly to have a seperate AMD Sabertooth club. Can the mods figure out a better place to put the Official Sabertooth Club so that all Sabertooth boards are part of the same club?


This was started as far as I know about the day of the release of the ASUS SaberTooth 990FX and while I can kinda understand the SaberTooth's sticking together (power of one club) that would be just a SaberTooth Club not the 990FX or the X68? (sorry if got that number wrong guys) I still believe in one club for each as they will each be totally different as far as settings and stuff, also god forbid you get AMD and Intel fanboys in same room!!!! OMG it would be a fight club lol could you imagine the wars it would be never ending (exciting to say the least) lol but I would not like that club to live at so to speak but it would be a nice place to visit lmao


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13844019*
> This was started as far as I know about the day of the release of the ASUS SaberTooth 990FX and while I can kinda understand the SaberTooth's sticking together (power of one club) that would be just a SaberTooth Club not the 990FX or the X68? (sorry if got that number wrong guys) I still believe in one club for each as they will each be totally different as far as settings and stuff, also god forbid you get AMD and Intel fanboys in same room!!!! OMG it would be a fight club lol could you imagine the wars it would be never ending (exciting to say the least) lol but I would not like that club to live at so to speak but it would be a nice place to visit lmao


Agreed. I guarantee this will not be the last Sabertooth board from AMD, and a club has to start somewhere







Not to mention, if we combined them, where would the thread go; the AMD section or the Intel section?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt;13844149*
> Agreed. I guarantee this will not be the last Sabertooth board from AMD, and a club has to start somewhere
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not to mention, if we combined them, where would the thread go; the AMD section or the Intel section?


I think this is just fine besides the fact that I just got my feathers ruffed by that guy in here, but that is done I hope!

I would like to see a Sticky Thread for SaberTooth and then this and the other club become official for there own chip-set Intel and AMD as I said it would not be a discussion room it would just be mayhem and nothing but fights, you have got to look at the kid factor even us adult kids lol we get very moody and competitive and it mite be good for somethings but it would not be great, that is another reason for the stick thread as the mods could watch over it, you want to see what I mean go post in the Intel SaberTooth thread that you think that the AMD board with BullDozer will beat SandyBridge which is what a AMD fanboy would think/believe and watch what happens please note I do not really want you to do this it is just a thought in your head so you can visualize the results.


----------



## THC Butterz

Thanks for all the helping brad, Nice to see someone helping out


----------



## Tweeky

Please include me


I am not able to install ASUS AI Suite II from the DVD or from ASUS downloads please help
thanks


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky;13856708*
> Please include me
> 
> 
> I am not able to install ASUS AI Suite II from the DVD or from ASUS downloads please help
> thanks


are you running the CH:IV or the SaberTooth? I need to know as they have different software


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13856751*
> are you running the CH:IV or the SaberTooth? I need to know as they have different software


the sabertooth


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky;13856770*
> the sabertooth


what does it say when you try to install?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky;13856708*
> Please include me
> 
> 
> I am not able to install ASUS AI Suite II from the DVD or from ASUS downloads please help
> thanks


I dont know what it is but Your not the first person with this issue, It installed for me just fine however there was a guy who posted on page 3 (i think it was pg3) who couldn't make it work either, I would contact asus and see what they say


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13856801*
> what does it say when you try to install?


It opens the install window and then closes down - no message, no error


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky;13856856*
> It opens the install window and then closes down - no message, no error


have you tried right clicking the install file and open as admin?


----------



## Tweeky

I contacted ASUS and they said I would have to reformat the hard drive and reinstall win 7 because the win 7 that was on the hard drives is caring over drivers from the old motherboard - so sad














They also said that their is about 200 setting that I world have to change


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13856915*
> have you tried right clicking the install file and open as admin?


yes i did


----------



## IOSEFINI

CnQ works even with x21 multi! Nice thing Sabertooth !!
For CH IV max was x18.5

Tweeky, you disapointed me, man. You suppose to know that for new mobo, fresh windows install.


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IOSEFINI;13858363*
> CnQ works even with x21 multi! Nice thing Sabertooth !!
> For CH IV max was x18.5
> 
> Tweeky, you disapointed me, man. You suppose to know that for new mobo, fresh windows install.


But hours of installs is to much I can not handle it I want to go the easy way







Do not forget all the backups


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IOSEFINI;13858363*
> CnQ works even with x21 multi! Nice thing Sabertooth !!
> For CH IV max was x18.5
> 
> Tweeky, you disapointed me, man. You suppose to know that for new mobo, fresh windows install.


lol, well sometimes we all forget! lol

And where did you read that about CNQ?

EDIT and why do you think I have not installed mine yet lol, I hate fresh installs lol, I HATTTTTE them lol everything goes bye bye and have to set it all back up so desk top is perfect and you never get it all back just the same


----------



## IOSEFINI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky;13858445*
> But hours of installs is to much I can not handle it I want to go the easy way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do not forget all the backups


I know, its PITA, but we have no choice. its the best thing.


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bradford1040;13858464*
> lol, well sometimes we all forget! Lol
> 
> and where did you read that about cnq?
> 
> Edit and why do you think i have not installed mine yet lol, i hate fresh installs lol, i hattttte them lol everything goes bye bye and have to set it all back up so desk top is perfect and you never get it all back just the same


10 4


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IOSEFINI;13858490*
> I know, its PITA, but we have no choice. its the best thing.


Oh! But it hurts so!







and I got more motherboards to swap! Is there not an easy way!


----------



## IOSEFINI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13858464*
> lol, well sometimes we all forget! lol
> 
> And where did you read that about CNQ?


I didnt read about, I tested it.
I just hope that the next BIOS will not limit it @ 18


----------



## kclan

Add Me

CPUZ
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1866888


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kclan;13859573*
> Add Me
> 
> CPUZ
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1866888


I am shore he will but he is in the middle of going to water! He got a full loop today and installing, so all can post CPU-Z just give him some time


----------



## kclan

I could never go back to air myself, just glad to be able to toss that old m4n98td evo in a box again


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kclan;13859693*
> I could never go back to air myself, just glad to be able to toss that old m4n98td evo in a box again


I've had good luck with mine, just SB always ran hot but tonight that M4N98TD-EVIL will go back in its box as well, I will not sell as I plan to have it reemerge after BD gets in this new board


----------



## kclan

Thats sounds like a good plan, im amazed with this 990FX and all its tools so far


----------



## headmixer

Hey Guys,

OK, Here goes.

I have been running 6 Crucial C300/64Gb SSDs in a raid0 strip on my C4F for some time now, and have been achieving 1025/1040 Mb/s read, and 404/420 Mb/s write, benching with Crystal Disk Mark.









So, I recently bought 6 Crucial M4/64Gb SSDs and installed them on my C4F. Improved those marks to 1059 Mb/s read / 505 Mb/s write.









This is what I have noticed.









The M4s are now on my C5F in the same configuration. Using the same Crystal Disk Mark, I am only achieving 650Mb/s read and 395Mb/s write.









The C300s are on my SaberTooth in the same configuration. Using the same Crystal Disk Mark, I am only getting 650Mb/s read and 395Mb/s write.
















It seems to me that the SATA chips is running in SATAII mode on both of the new boards.









The C4F has a setting that can be manualy set in the BIOS,(6G/s or 3G/s) this option is not offered in either of the new boards.









Has anyone else noticed this?









Not sure, may be related to the fact that I don't have an FX 8130P/8150P CPU on the boards.(may have to wait and see)

Any thoughts?


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *headmixer;13860416*
> Hey Guys,
> 
> OK, Here goes.
> 
> I have been running 6 Crucial C300/64Gb SSDs in a raid0 strip on my C4F for some time now, and have been achieving 1025/1040 Mb/s read, and 404/420 Mb/s write, benching with Crystal Disk Mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, I recently bought 6 Crucial M4/64Gb SSDs and installed them on my C4F. Improved those marks to 1059 Mb/s read / 505 Mb/s write.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I have noticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The M4s are now on my C5F in the same configuration. Using the same Crystal Disk Mark, I am only achieving 650Mb/s read and 395Mb/s write.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The C300s are on my SaberTooth in the same configuration. Using the same Crystal Disk Mark, I am only getting 650Mb/s read and 395Mb/s write.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It seems to me that the SATA chips is running in SATAII mode on both of the new boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The C4F has a setting that can be manualy set in the BIOS,(6G/s or 3G/s) this option is not offered in either of the new boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone else noticed this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure, may be related to the fact that I don't have an FX 8130P/8150P CPU on the boards.(may have to wait and see)
> 
> Any thoughts?


there is a program called raidxpet on the asus dvd that my help


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *headmixer;13860416*
> Hey Guys,
> 
> OK, Here goes.
> 
> I have been running 6 Crucial C300/64Gb SSDs in a raid0 strip on my C4F for some time now, and have been achieving 1025/1040 Mb/s read, and 404/420 Mb/s write, benching with Crystal Disk Mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, I recently bought 6 Crucial M4/64Gb SSDs and installed them on my C4F. Improved those marks to 1059 Mb/s read / 505 Mb/s write.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I have noticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The M4s are now on my C5F in the same configuration. Using the same Crystal Disk Mark, I am only achieving 650Mb/s read and 395Mb/s write.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The C300s are on my SaberTooth in the same configuration. Using the same Crystal Disk Mark, I am only getting 650Mb/s read and 395Mb/s write.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It seems to me that the SATA chips is running in SATAII mode on both of the new boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The C4F has a setting that can be manualy set in the BIOS,(6G/s or 3G/s) this option is not offered in either of the new boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone else noticed this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure, may be related to the fact that I don't have an FX 8130P/8150P CPU on the boards.(may have to wait and see)
> 
> Any thoughts?


after you did your fresh install did you forget anything? like trim and all the tweaks with in W7

And you have both boards? wow! I am going to ask again about the fresh install though t just seems that all of us are trying to skip that step lol


----------



## headmixer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13860594*
> after you did your fresh install did you forget anything? like trim and all the tweaks with in W7
> 
> And you have both boards? wow! I am going to ask again about the fresh install though t just seems that all of us are trying to skip that step lol


Yes, Fresh installs on both.

Yes, I have looked at RaidExpert.

Yes, TRIM is set on both.

Edit: Setup these two board the same way as the C4F.

Just ran this on the C5F.

View attachment 215190

This is the one from the C4F with the C300s.
View attachment 215248


----------



## kev_b

My case isn't assembled yet, I was waiting on some counter sunk rivets to install my 5.25 drive cage, well my order came in today but I did something stupid when I placed my order with performance PC, I thought I was buying a pack of 50 rivets, I got my (1) rivet today.








They taped it to the box, my AX-750 that I also ordered.


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kev_b;13862603*
> My case isn't assembled yet, I was waiting on some counter sunk rivets to install my 5.25 drive cage, well my order came in today but I did something stupid when I placed my order with performance PC, I thought I was buying a pack of 50 rivets, I got my (1) rivet today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They taped it to the box, my AX-750 that I also ordered.


I will bet the shipping on that rivet was expensive too


----------



## myrandomspaces

X58 cough...but glad you amd boys can join the "ultimate force"


----------



## kev_b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky;13862948*
> I will bet the shipping on that rivet was expensive too


Most expensive rivet I ever bought.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *myrandomspaces;13863005*
> X58 cough...but glad you amd boys can join the "ultimate force"


thank you and love you saying in your sig as I believe about the very same thing my fav. is 5.0ghz at 1.28 volts lol


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *headmixer;13860651*
> Yes, Fresh installs on both.
> 
> Yes, I have looked at RaidExpert.
> 
> Yes, TRIM is set on both.
> 
> Edit: Setup these two board the same way as the C4F.
> 
> Just ran this on the C5F.
> 
> View attachment 215190


According to this site, performance of the C300 (and the M4) should be pretty much the same from the Crosshair IV to the Sabertooth

Try one drive in AHCI mode and report back with benchmarks. Maybe we can piece this together bit by bit and discover what the issue is. BTW, how do you have TRIM in RAID? TRIM will work with a single drive in RAID mode, but will not work on striped (or mirrored) drives in RAID.


----------



## SobePmp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13790135*
> in the bios there is a feature in the overclocking section of the advanced bios that will scan and apply an automatic overclock... from there you should be able to raise to 4ghz+ without even touching the voltage... adding you to members list


Thanks for the info. I tried this and I got it up to 3.91ghz so far. No doubt it can do 4ghz+.


----------



## capitaltpt

Ordered my board today, should have it here by Thursday or Friday. Can't wait!


----------



## metarox

Anyone got a link to the board manual so I can read while I salivate and wait for Bulldozer to launch before I get this board!?!

(Yes it will be a damn good upgrade from my current Celeron 1GHz and my super ATI Radeon 8500 64MB [still working like a champ]!!!)

Offtopic: Can someone tell me how to get a signature with the system specs as you guys have?


----------



## Gyro

The manual is not online yet.
The CH5 is though and should be comparable. ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/Crosshair_V_Formula/E6522_Crosshair_V_Formula.zip

Go here to fill in your sys specs;http://www.overclock.net/specs.php?do=addsystem

Gyro


----------



## Rayleyne

Possibly the dumbest question around but the asus site isn't exactly the most obvious, am i correct to assume the sabertooth doesn't support tri sli? i couldn't find it anywhere obvious though i am bound to have missed it.


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayleyne;13877069*
> Possibly the dumbest question around but the asus site isn't exactly the most obvious, am i correct to assume the sabertooth doesn't support tri sli? i couldn't find it anywhere obvious though i am bound to have missed it.


Sabertooth
Multi-GPU Support
Supports NVIDIA® Quad-GPU SLI™ Technology
Supports AMD Quad-GPU CrossFireX™ Technology

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#specifications


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayleyne;13877069*
> Possibly the dumbest question around but the asus site isn't exactly the most obvious, am i correct to assume the sabertooth doesn't support tri sli? i couldn't find it anywhere obvious though i am bound to have missed it.


Yes, you can run 3 video cards in a 16x/8x/8x configuration. You will need flexible 2-way bridges and cards with 2 SLI connectors in order to do this though due to the spacing of the PCI slots on the board


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metarox;13873464*
> Anyone got a link to the board manual so I can read while I salivate and wait for Bulldozer to launch before I get this board!?!
> 
> (Yes it will be a damn good upgrade from my current Celeron 1GHz and my super ATI Radeon 8500 64MB [still working like a champ]!!!)
> 
> Offtopic: Can someone tell me how to get a signature with the system specs as you guys have?


go to the first page and copy and past one of the PHP codes into your signature


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky;13877260*
> Sabertooth
> Multi-GPU Support
> Supports NVIDIA® Quad-GPU SLI™ Technology
> Supports AMD Quad-GPU CrossFireX™ Technology
> 
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#specifications


The sabertooth only supports quad sli with 2 dual gpu cards from my understanding


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13877340*
> The sabertooth only supports quad sli with 2 dual gpu cards from my understanding


Every review I've read says it will support 3-way SLI/Crossfire.

JJ even says so here (0:53):

http://youtu.be/-cubX8HndS0

Edit: Great video for checking out the AI Suite software btw.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt;13877428*
> Every review I've read says it will support 3-way SLI/Crossfire.
> 
> JJ even says so here (0:53):
> 
> http://youtu.be/-cubX8HndS0
> 
> Edit: Great video for checking out the AI Suite software btw.


I know it supports 3 way, i was simply stating that it only runs quad with multi gpu cards as pci-e lane 2 is only x4


----------



## LightSpeedIII

I should be receiving my board soon, as well as a new X2, hopefully this one will unlock...


----------



## AMD2600

You can add me too the list.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD2600;13883109*
> You can add me too the list.


Please read the op, and upload a pic with the motherbord in your system, or a cpu-z validation file


----------



## RamenNoodles55

I got my Sabertooth 990FX TUF yesterday, and now its all set up!








So far, I'm loving this board and its color scheme!









Please Add me.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1870080


----------



## Bradford1040

I put mine in last night/this morning/today lol


----------



## AMD2600

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13884342*
> Please read the op, and upload a pic with the motherbord in your system, or a cpu-z validation file


Here it is. Add me to the list.


----------



## AMD2600

Mainboard:

Add me to the list.


----------



## Rayleyne

Boards pretty damn ugly and mean looking, but i've got mine on the way too!, besides ugly and mean looking only makes it more imposing when i take it to lan parties.!


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## LightSpeedIII

I should be receiving mine today, woot!


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LightSpeedIII;13894337*
> I should be receiving mine today, woot!


well one thing you will love about it, it is a overclocking beast been playing with the settings in this new bios which to me is weird as hell, and of coarse I did not ever have as much settings so need to spend some time testing and reading on what they do. I was thinking of hanging in the CH:V thread to find out what works on the LLC and VDDR and more that were never in any board I had before!!! I even got my ram faster timings which was imposable in last board as they were maxed at sig spec's but lowered them from there and testing now system has never felt so rock solid. I can't say how happy I am with this board already, there are no words!


----------



## capitaltpt

I've got one quick question before I get my board today. With the powered eSATA, can it be used with an AC Powered Enclosure? Does it know not to send power to an already powered device or can I only use the regular eSATA port?

Also, any need to download any drivers or is the DVD fully up to date (which it should be considering this just came out)?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt;13896166*
> I've got one quick question before I get my board today. With the powered eSATA, can it be used with an AC Powered Enclosure? Does it know not to send power to an already powered device or can I only use the regular eSATA port?
> 
> Also, any need to download any drivers or is the DVD fully up to date (which it should be considering this just came out)?


I dont own any esata devices so I couldnt tell you about that but all the drivers are up to date on the disk


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt;13896166*
> I've got one quick question before I get my board today. With the powered eSATA, can it be used with an AC Powered Enclosure? Does it know not to send power to an already powered device or can I only use the regular eSATA port?
> 
> Also, any need to download any drivers or is the DVD fully up to date (which it should be considering this just came out)?


you are running all the hardware in your sig? if so all drivers and the E-Sata should be fine dude


----------



## LightSpeedIII

I am currently installing the motherboard and trying to do much better with cable management this time.


----------



## Bradford1040

here one for reference


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


here one for reference


slick


----------



## B-Roll

Can anyone go into their CPUZ and under the mainboard tab see if it says SB850 or SB950? A couple of us with CHVs are hoping that it's just a bad readout and will be fixed later. It's giving us SB850.


----------



## capitaltpt

Got everything installed today, Add me to the list









A few things for those who will Install or have installed this board:

1. There is a piece of protective plastic over the Southbridge heatsink (the one with the ASUS logo) that should probably be removed. I didn't notice it at first until I wondered why there was a scratch on my new motherboard heatsink.

2. The CPU backplate is just a couple centimeters too low for the Cooler Master Storm Sniper cutout (and probably other cases as well). Best to put your 3rd party backplate on before installing.

3. To the guy (and others) wondering, CPU-Z is showing the southbridge as SB850. Looks like they didn't even bother putting lipstick on the pig


----------



## caffeinescandal

I got a Sabertooth 990fx yesterday. Bought it from newegg, and picked it up since I live a few blocks away from a pick up center (lucky me). Installed it, and onboard nic doesnt work. -_-

Don't get me wrong, im not ranting about the board. I'm pretty sure its a great board. Needless to say, I will be receiving a new Sabertooth as soon as newegg processes my rma. Hopefully soon. ;_;


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B-Roll;13901860*
> Can anyone go into their CPUZ and under the mainboard tab see if it says SB850 or SB950? A couple of us with CHVs are hoping that it's just a bad readout and will be fixed later. It's giving us SB850.


CPU-Z has not updated yet they will there mite even be a new version if so post link for rep+


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13903064*
> CPU-Z has not updated yet they will there mite even be a new version if so post link for rep+


what brad said


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## LightSpeedIII

This is where I am at so far, and please disregard that fan's wires, it won't be there in final shots. Also, add me.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LightSpeedIII;13906449*
> This is where I am at so far, and please disregard that fan's wires, it won't be there in final shots. Also, add me.


what about the red wire, I would move that lol!

Looks good


----------



## Bradford1040

OH!!!! hey I just looked over the thread and noticed that no one (you know who you are) said to take off the sticker on the spp/south bridge it is clear so it is not seen! but there is one there

*That should be in the main part of the list BTW*


----------



## LightSpeedIII

Yeah that red wire and the black one are the wires I was talking about


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LightSpeedIII;13906729*
> Yeah that red wire and the black one are the wires I was talking about


I was joking dope, lol I knew what you were saying lol! I think it looks good BTW and did you see that clear sticker on the south bridge?


----------



## LightSpeedIII

I saw a post that said that there was a plastic thing on the southbridge, I then took it off. Had I not seen that post I wouldn't have noticed it.
Edit: post 111 get!


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LightSpeedIII;13906449*
> This is where I am at so far, and please disregard that fan's wires, it won't be there in final shots. Also, add me.


looking good so far,keep up the good work


----------



## LightSpeedIII

Just have to attach my fan to the heatsink and it's done.


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13906546*
> OH!!!! hey I just looked over the thread and noticed that no one (you know who you are) said to take off the sticker on the spp/south bridge it is clear so it is not seen! but there is one there
> 
> *That should be in the main part of the list BTW*


Ahem! Check post #119. Said that last night

And "no one" is my middle name......


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13906546*
> OH!!!! hey I just looked over the thread and noticed that no one (you know who you are) said to take off the sticker on the spp/south bridge it is clear so it is not seen! but there is one there
> 
> *That should be in the main part of the list BTW*


thanks Brad ...you could have said this over the phone, you didnt have to put me on the spot like that


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt;13908530*
> Ahem! Check post #119. Said that last night
> 
> And "no one" is my middle name......


sorry about missing that it was more about picking on THC Butterz


----------



## SobePmp

I'm looking to get some new RAM to go with my Sabertooth (and Bulldozer when it's available). Any suggestions?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SobePmp;13916703*
> I'm looking to get some new RAM to go with my Sabertooth (and Bulldozer when it's available). Any suggestions?


Well I like the ripjaws and have tried kingston, mushkin, value ram lol, and was even toying with the idea I getting some a-data but the only thing I would say is get low timing 2000 ram as you can get even lower timings from it when you run down around 1600 or 1866 when bd comes out! I don't know if you know that it is always a dance between timing and speed to get the most out of ram lie I get best results at my sig timings


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SobePmp;13916703*
> I'm looking to get some new RAM to go with my Sabertooth (and Bulldozer when it's available). Any suggestions?


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231453


----------



## THC Butterz

finaly got my 90 degree barbs for my sli now i may be able to access the sabertooths other pci ports


----------



## SobePmp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13917089*
> Well I like the ripjaws and have tried kingston, mushkin, value ram lol, and was even toying with the idea I getting some a-data but the only thing I would say is get low timing 2000 ram as you can get even lower timings from it when you run down around 1600 or 1866 when bd comes out! I don't know if you know that it is always a dance between timing and speed to get the most out of ram lie I get best results at my sig timings


Thanks for the info. I have some Ripjaws right now and I like them, I'll probably just get some Ripjaws with better timings than the ones I have now. It always kind of bothers me though that they are designed for Intel Processors even though people say that doesn't matter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky;13919591*
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231453


Those look great! What about these though, would they be better? They have a CAS Latency of 7 and the ones in the link are CAS 9.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231454


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SobePmp;13921806*
> Thanks for the info. I have some Ripjaws right now and I like them, I'll probably just get some Ripjaws with better timings than the ones I have now. It always kind of bothers me though that they are designed for Intel Processors even though people say that doesn't matter.
> 
> Those look great! What about these though, would they be better? They have a CAS Latency of 7 and the ones in the link are CAS 9.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231454


9-9-9 or 7-10-10
how is one to know ?
which would be faster ?


----------



## LightSpeedIII

I successfully unlocked a third core on the X2 555, hopefully I can overclock well with the third core.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky;13921885*
> 9-9-9 or 7-10-10
> how is one to know ?
> which would be faster ?


7-10-10 would esentially be faster but 8-9-8 would be better if you could make it work, just note ram always seems to be more stable with the middle number one higher


----------



## PureOC Jim

Working on high overclock on a Phenom II 980. 4.%Ghz but keep getting rounding error. Will also do extreme dice overclock tommorrow and post screenies.


----------



## Erper

hi guys...
i was wondering how x6 is working on newer chipsets


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureOC Jim;13922995*
> Working on high overclock on a Phenom II 980. 4.%Ghz but keep getting rounding error. Will also do extreme dice overclock tommorrow and post screenies.


?? 4%ghz?? and if you meen 4ghz thats a high oc??


----------



## snelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper;13923017*
> hi guys...
> i was wondering how x6 is working on newer chipsets


It should work fine.


----------



## SBN1977

Ok, here or my just pics


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SBN1977;13926925*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a few more days I'll go back to my normal compound in Indego Extreme, and start cranking up the OC. Some people will look at my HTT Speed at 2400, and say why, but I'm getting better benchmark scores with it compared to HTT2000. As you can see I just have a averge midrange system, but i do have a Sabertooth 990FX. Add me


cpuz or pic, please read the op


----------



## SBN1977

Only used AIDA64 becouse my Pic wasent that good, but if you want me to redo it, I will. Not a big deal.


----------



## waltcujo

I just have one question,"WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU DOING WITH A PICTURE OF MY GIRLFRIEND ON YOUR WINDOW????


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *waltcujo*


I just have one question,"WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU DOING WITH A PICTURE OF MY GIRLFRIEND ON YOUR WINDOW????


It mite help if you said who you are talking to!??? that is what the ether quote is for or you need to put a name down there is allot of posts so who's


----------



## Kvjavs

Is it possible to run SLI/XFire in x8/x8 on the bottom PCI-E slots then use the top 3 for expansion cards such as a TV tuner, NIC, and Sound card?


----------



## capitaltpt

I haven't been able to squeeze more than 3.6Ghz out of my PII 955BE @ 1.4V. Maybe I've got a "bad" chip. It is an early stepping. Jealous of the 4Ghz people


----------



## SBN1977

before I go into any detail, i would like to know have you done the auto OC, and if you have what it OC'ed it at, becouse even tho we have diffrent cpu's we still both have the same stock speed


----------



## ALUCARDVPR

Just thought I'd give you an update, one our our Crosshair V users found the 270.80 beta driver that was released by Nvidia for testing and was later taken down by Nvidia. It had been confirmed again that this works. You might compare this to what you already have.
*
Nvidia Geforce WHQL 270.80 (Signed Beta Driver For SLI on 990FX)*
http://forums.guru3d.com/showpost.ph...43&postcount=1


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ALUCARDVPR*


Just thought I'd give you an update, one our our Crosshair V users found the 270.80 beta driver that was released by Nvidia for testing and was later taken down by Nvidia. It had been confirmed again that this works. You might compare this to what you already have.
*
Nvidia Geforce WHQL 270.80 (Signed Beta Driver For SLI on 990FX)*
http://forums.guru3d.com/showpost.ph...43&postcount=1


already installed them and they don't do as well in heaven so far have not had time to test other benches


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SBN1977;13932939*
> before I go into any detail, i would like to know have you done the auto OC, and if you have what it OC'ed it at, becouse even tho we have diffrent cpu's we still both have the same stock speed


I started with Auto OC and it only took me to about 3.5. I then did it manually by multiplier only and later by bus only using Prime95 as my stress test. Best I could get was 3.6 with an 18x multiplier at 1.4V Prime95 stable for 6 hours.


----------



## THC Butterz

I did a conparison for both sets of drivers, my results can be found here
http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/1046310-driver-conparison-990fx-sli.html


----------



## PureOC Jim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13923469*
> ?? 4%ghz?? and if you meen 4ghz thats a high oc??


4.4GHz stable. I should hit 4.7GHz hi overclock and 5.5Ghz on Dry Ice.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SBN1977;13926925*
> Ok, here or my just pics


hows your phys x card hold up??


----------



## SBN1977

Nothing special, I only have 3 games on my PC that even take's advantage of it, which batman and Mafia 2, it does make look better, but Metro 2033 which I just really use as a benchmark, I still can’t do anything with that game, need to buy another 6870 for that. Only reason I bought the card because was a $25 shell shocker from Newegg. I’m using the PhysX Mod 1.04ff, which is working on even the newest drivers. When there are so few games that even use PhysX it’s a waste of money unless it’s just a great sell.


----------



## drizek

I are joining

Will post better pics when my 460 Cyclone gets here.

Used AutoOC to get my 720BE up to 3.4GHz. I had it running at 3.65GHz manually before, but 3.4 at 1.4V isn't bad. I tried running at at 3.7 and 3.8 and it just won't do it no matter what. I'm going to focus on my NB now instead.


----------



## Kvjavs

Is it possible to run SLI/XFire in x8/x8 on the bottom PCI-E slots then use the top 3 for expansion cards such as a TV tuner, NIC, and Sound card?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kvjavs;13937794*
> Is it possible to run SLI/XFire in x8/x8 on the bottom PCI-E slots then use the top 3 for expansion cards such as a TV tuner, NIC, and Sound card?


I don't know but is this not the second time you asked that? Try not to double post like that if so, just friendly reminder.

Plus to answer it I am not positive but I think it matters if you are running SLI or crossfire so which one are you using if SLI I don't think so but maybe Crossfire as it seems to be a little more flexible

THIS is a opinion not fact as most have only had the board for a few weeks it mite be sometime before you get a answer on this


----------



## drizek

So are we limited to just two fan profiles, one for chassis and one for CPU? I would like to control my three chassis fans independently.


----------



## Tweeky

Some more info on SLI
http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/946327-asus-crosshair-v-formula-990fx-club-55.html#post13938989


----------



## capitaltpt

Having a network issue and I"m not sure if it's related to the Sabertooth board or not. When using a Media Server (PS3 Media Server, Vuze, PlayOn) to stream to my PS3, the video stops every 4-5 seconds for a few seconds before resuming. It happens with several different types of video and always stops at the same places despite which media server I'm using. I have been using this setup for over a year with no issues until I changed motherboards to the Sabertooth. Internet seems to be working without issue. All Videos also play on the desktop with no issue.

Wired Connection to PS3 through CAT6 cable and Netgear WNDR3700 Router. Have tried resetting router, resetting PS3, changing cables with no luck. I have also uninstalled and re-installed Realtek drivers. Anybody have any suggestions? Is this definitely a problem with the board at this point?


----------



## Kvjavs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


I don't know but is this not the second time you asked that? Try not to double post like that if so, just friendly reminder.

Plus to answer it I am not positive but I think it matters if you are running SLI or crossfire so which one are you using if SLI I don't think so but maybe Crossfire as it seems to be a little more flexible

THIS is a opinion not fact as most have only had the board for a few weeks it mite be sometime before you get a answer on this


It's not double posting if it's not immediately after one another. Besides it was overlooked by many posts, and considering that most people only go a few posts back, I decided to post it again.

If someone read it, such as yourself, one could politely answer "I don't know for sure", as opposed to completely ignoring the question.

But I thank you for at least telling me that you are unsure. It beats being ignored.

And yeah, I hear Crossfire is more flexible but I hear it's primarily if its a x16/x4 configuration. Or of different speeds.

If anyone else could elaborate on the subject, that would be greatly appreciated as I have this board in my consideration.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kvjavs;13943441*
> It's not double posting if it's not immediately after one another. Besides it was overlooked by many posts, and considering that most people only go a few posts back, I decided to post it again.
> 
> If someone read it, such as yourself, one could politely answer "I don't know for sure", as opposed to completely ignoring the question.
> 
> But I thank you for at least telling me that you are unsure. It beats being ignored.
> 
> And yeah, I hear Crossfire is more flexible but I hear it's primarily if its a x16/x4 configuration. Or of different speeds.
> 
> If anyone else could elaborate on the subject, that would be greatly appreciated as I have this board in my consideration.


dude I know how that feels trust me lol, I get my questions overlooked on many threads one more than others cough water cough cooling barf up lung club lol but as it is you have been around as I see and you know that the people on here are just that people not employe's or customer service sometimes you just got to go with the flow, I did what you did and had a mod basically tell me to find help somewhere else or be patient (btw after that got a sig violation as well lol, but that was my fault) The moral of this is just post and see if you get a reply if not it mite be that it was overlooked as you thought or that no one knows in the thread that you are in or has time to respond at the moment (which some take two or three days to) I am the same way when I ask a question it is because I want to know NOW! lol not wait god who waits lol This computer is the biggest thing in my life and these people just don't understand (but they do cause they are just like us/you)

Like I said give it some time and someone will respond and come up with a answer that will suit your needs hell you mite of posted and someone is trying it out and just has not figured it out yet to respond! Hint Hint lol I am trying it for you lol now I don't have good news yet but hope to have some by tomorrow

EDIT: I only have Nvidia not ATI but at least you will know about them after I get done


----------



## Rayleyne

Alright my new board is here, its in the case, and its installing windows as we speak!, since i have a really bad phone camera, can i just use Cpu-z Validation to prove thats my board, or is there another way or what?

Also how do i put club names and what not in sigs?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayleyne;13947595*
> Alright my new board is here, its in the case, and its installing windows as we speak!, since i have a really bad phone camera, can i just use Cpu-z Validation to prove thats my board, or is there another way or what?
> 
> Also how do i put club names and what not in sigs?


cpu-z is fine


----------



## Rayleyne

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/807/proofi.png/

I think i did it right.


----------



## Tatakai All

I didn't think to check this board out before I ordered a Crosshair V, this is a really nice mobo!


----------



## Rayleyne

Yeah it is, i love it despite that i still think its ugly.

And it takes its sweet time bringing up the first post screen


----------



## Tatakai All

I think it looks pretty sweet, I could see myself making some kind of spec ops (not in any way related to cod black ops) theme build from that mobo.


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## SBN1977

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rayleyne*


Yeah it is, i love it despite that i still think its ugly.

And it takes its sweet time bringing up the first post screen



If you are having a bit slow startup turn off the JMicro controller, unless your using them for some reason which you shouldnâ€™t have to since the sata6 are backwards compatible. It greatly improves my startup speed, since the MB no longer scans for those drives. I do find it strange the post screen shows after my raid, every other MB Iâ€™ve owned itâ€™s been the other way.


----------



## drizek

Ya, I turned that thing off pretty quick. I think there is a setting to disable the JMicron screen without disabling the controller though, if you need it.


----------



## PureOC Jim




----------



## Bradford1040

PureOCjim, do you mind filling out your sig as I would like to see your hardware myself lol, plus you have a I7 as well right? I know you have been posting allot around OCN so most would like to see your spec's and if you ever have a problem it helps people know if they have experienced the same problem with the same hardware, Thanks and if you don't know how just ether say so and I will walk you through it or just PM me or anyone for that matter most know how and would like to help


----------



## Bradford1040

added you BTW PureOc Jim


----------



## PureOC Jim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13953651*
> PureOCjim, do you mind filling out your sig as I would like to see your hardware myself lol, plus you have a I7 as well right? I know you have been posting allot around OCN so most would like to see your spec's and if you ever have a problem it helps people know if they have experienced the same problem with the same hardware, Thanks and if you don't know how just ether say so and I will walk you through it or just PM me or anyone for that matter most know how and would like to help


I know how but I have so many rigs..... LOL


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureOC Jim;13953900*
> I know how but I have so many rigs..... LOL


I have a few my self, but it still would be nice most use it to ether ask questions or even try to copy settings because they want to reach that same level, and you can put more than one system in and just keep the system you are on in the sig or your main system in there like I have my sli'n'style in my sig but have a total of 7 systems 3 in my profile as the others are my kids or the house HTPC

nevermind lol I see you set it up (me dope) lol


----------



## kclan

Just and updated Nvidia release beta drivers on their site for the 990fx chipset as of 6/20/2011

Nvidia 275.50 Win 7 32 bit http://www.nvidia.com/object/win7-winvista-32bit-275.50-beta-driver.html
Nvidia 275.50 Win 7 64 bit http://www.nvidia.com/object/win7-winvista-32bit-275.50-beta-driver.html


----------



## capitaltpt

Well after some experimenting, it appears there is something wrong with the LAN port on my new board. For those who didn't read my previous post (which it seems no one did) when streaming video to my PS3 via a media server (PS3 Media Server, Vuze, PlayOn), the video plays for 5 seconds, then stops for five seconds and repeats. Playing the same video via USB stick or Media Drive connected only to the router results in perfect video. I have no idea what other settings I can play with to get it to work right, but I know it worked without issue on my Crosshair III board. Does anybody have any suggestions or should I just RMA the board?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt;13954530*
> Well after some experimenting, it appears there is something wrong with the LAN port on my new board. For those who didn't read my previous post (which it seems no one did) when streaming video to my PS3 via a media server (PS3 Media Server, Vuze, PlayOn), the video plays for 5 seconds, then stops for five seconds and repeats. Playing the same video via USB stick or Media Drive connected only to the router results in perfect video. I have no idea what other settings I can play with to get it to work right, but I know it worked without issue on my Crosshair III board. Does anybody have any suggestions or should I just RMA the board?


sounds like an issue with your os not with the motherbord, did you do a fresh install??


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13954583*
> sounds like an issue with your os not with the motherbord, did you do a fresh install??


Yes, did a fresh install. Maybe I'll do another to be safe. As big of a pain in the @ss it is to reinstall windows, it's worse to RMA a board.


----------



## caffeinescandal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt;13954925*
> Yes, did a fresh install. Maybe I'll do another to be safe. As big of a pain in the @ss it is to reinstall windows, it's worse to RMA a board.


Try disabling the power management in the lan port (I think its called green ethernet) through the device manager.

Anyway, add me. finally got my board! Add me!


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caffeinescandal;13955774*
> Try disabling the power management in the lan port (I think its called green ethernet) through the device manager.
> 
> Anyway, add me. finally got my board! Add me!


Did a reinstall and disabled both Green ethernet and Energy Efficient Ethernet. No dice. Video still stops in the same places.


----------



## caffeinescandal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt;13956385*
> Did a reinstall and disabled both Green ethernet and Energy Efficient Ethernet. No dice. Video still stops in the same places.


Maybe its your switch then, its operating at a slower speed (10/100?) instead of 1000. Other than that idk what to say anymore.


----------



## SBN1977

AMD added some stuff Video stuff on Catalyst 11.6, maybe causing a propblem if youre useing 11.6, most likley not, but I know how bad id sucks to rma MB's. I do know this MB needs a bios or chipset fix for HD speed, it maybe just another thing that needs to be fixed.


----------



## PureOC Jim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13955841*


I would like to see your 4.5GHz "stable" all day long stress test screen shots.....


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureOC Jim;13956699*
> I would like to see your 4.5GHz "stable" all day long stress test screen shots.....


I can give you mine tomorrow night as I never did record it but will I don't just do suicide runs my sig is spot on. lol I am 40 with two ex-wifes so learned never to lie after that lol

EDIT and if so I just relised how do I do that lol record it all day? oops thought you were talking to me did not read all the way sorry, just skimmed in email


----------



## Gyro

I think he means to post a screenshot of prime with the start and end times showing, and cpu-z open.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gyro;13957194*
> I think he means to post a screenshot of prime with the start and end times showing, and cpu-z open.


yeah I think so but as I seen after he was not even talking to me, I just saw the updated link in my email did not relise THC Butterz had done one after me and also I was talking to him about his sig so you see how I got confused and if that is not enough how about this I am just plain stupid lol I buy computer stuff at the highest prices pay for next day shipping and for what so I can spend every night tweaking and working on it till the next new thing is out lol come on you got to see I am stupid lol


----------



## Kvjavs

Could anyone do me a favor and run an SLI or Crossfire configuration but use the bottom 2 slots for x8/x8 if possible? I'm trying to determine if that will work, and allow me to use the top 3 slots for other expansion cards.

It's a huge deciding factor for me with this board.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gyro;13957194*
> I think he means to post a screenshot of prime with the start and end times showing, and cpu-z open.


we know what he means, but prime does nothing but decrease the life of a processor, 3 runs of 3dmark 06 and 3 runs of heaven 2.1 will tell you if your stable...


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kvjavs;13957662*
> Could anyone do me a favor and run an SLI or Crossfire configuration but use the bottom 2 slots for x8/x8 if possible? I'm trying to determine if that will work, and allow me to use the top 3 slots for other expansion cards.
> 
> It's a huge deciding factor for me with this board.


I tested with sli and it will not work with sli but I don't know still about CF need to ask someone that has it


----------



## PureOC Jim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13956806*
> I can give you mine tomorrow night as I never did record it but will I don't just do suicide runs my sig is spot on. lol I am 40 with two ex-wifes so learned never to lie after that lol
> 
> EDIT and if so I just relised how do I do that lol record it all day? oops thought you were talking to me did not read all the way sorry, just skimmed in email


955's cannot produce stable overclocks of 4.5GHz. I have overclocked countless Phenoms and only the 975's and 980's can get there.


----------



## PureOC Jim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13957663*
> we know what he means, but prime does nothing but decrease the life of a processor, 3 runs of 3dmark 06 and 3 runs of heaven 2.1 will tell you if your stable...


Ohhh no. As long as temps are respectable you can run Prime95 4 hours surely with no degradation. I smell a fib here! LOL:cheers:

Making it through 3DMark06 does not deem a CPU stable by no means. I will tell you what. If you make 4 hours at 4.2GHz I will gladly send you a tube of IC 7 Diamond thermalpaste. That is about a $15 value and you can use it to lower your temps so at least you will get 4.1GHz.. LOL, cause that's all you will get unless you have magic powder!


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureOC Jim;13951458*
> I'd like to order 2 of them


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureOC Jim;13958099*
> 955's cannot produce stable overclocks of 4.5GHz. I have overclocked countless Phenoms and only the 975's and 980's can get there.


mine sits at 4.440 mhz and has no problems there, I have to admit that it can be hard to get over 4.5 but I can get there my cpu/nb is the problem as it gets unstabe over 2880 and also multi over 18.5 so ether way I go it can get shaky but mine is the 970 so don't know if you want to put that in your specs if you are keeping notes (that is not sarcastic BTW) I will let you know what I reach as I will be going to try to push harder in the next month or so closer to BD


----------



## Kvjavs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13957722*
> I tested with sli and it will not work with sli but I don't know still about CF need to ask someone that has it


Ah ok, thanks. What exactly was it doing? Or just not working is the easiest way to put it?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kvjavs;13958698*
> Ah ok, thanks. What exactly was it doing? Or just not working is the easiest way to put it?


it only would run at 4x in 3 and 4 and with a card in 1 would not even come on like it was not in the system, kinda like it was telling me get it out its to big just like my last girl friend lol


----------



## PureOC Jim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13958454*
> mine sits at 4.440 mhz and has no problems there, I have to admit that it can be hard to get over 4.5 but I can get there my cpu/nb is the problem as it gets unstabe over 2880 and also multi over 18.5 so ether way I go it can get shaky but mine is the 970 so don't know if you want to put that in your specs if you are keeping notes (that is not sarcastic BTW) I will let you know what I reach as I will be going to try to push harder in the next month or so closer to BD


That's a good overclock for a 970:cheers:


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13958744*
> it only would run at 4x in 3 and 4 and with a card in 1 would not even come on like it was not in the system, kinda like it was telling me get it out its to big just like my last girl friend lol


lmao


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caffeinescandal;13956571*
> Maybe its your switch then, its operating at a slower speed (10/100?) instead of 1000. Other than that idk what to say anymore.


It appears it's the board. I purchased a PCI ethernet card, which happens to also be using Realtek, and it works like a charm. Sucks having to RMA a board for a $15 item.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PureOC Jim*


Ohhh no. As long as temps are respectable you can run Prime95 4 hours surely with no degradation. I smell a fib here! LOL









Making it through 3DMark06 does not deem a CPU stable by no means. I will tell you what. If you make 4 hours at 4.2GHz I will gladly send you a tube of IC 7 Diamond thermalpaste. That is about a $15 value and you can use it to lower your temps so at least you will get 4.1GHz.. LOL, cause that's all you will get unless you have magic powder!


challenge accepted and completed







will send pm with shipping address, (note temps are high due to 90F+ ambient temps, was 100F ambient where i live when test was started)


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*


we know what he means, but prime does nothing but decrease the life of a processor, 3 runs of 3dmark 06 and 3 runs of heaven 2.1 will tell you if your stable...


I 100% agree and so does ASUS as per there overclocking team does not use Prime95 at all they use Aida64 stress test as well as I do and your method as well! Prime95 is just a random floating point that stresses the cpu to 100% yes but reallisticly it dose not test anything, other than heat stress IMHO! I have spoken with the ASUS overclocking team and watched there live feeds and they always bring up the Prime thing in every one stating it really is not a good test anymore for stability. I also think AMD doesn't like it as well but that I am not shore of, I only can confirm about ASUS being against it. I really don't know Intel's stand point on it at all they mite be 100% for it but that is not this thread


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt;13954530*
> Well after some experimenting, it appears there is something wrong with the LAN port on my new board. For those who didn't read my previous post (which it seems no one did) when streaming video to my PS3 via a media server (PS3 Media Server, Vuze, PlayOn), the video plays for 5 seconds, then stops for five seconds and repeats. Playing the same video via USB stick or Media Drive connected only to the router results in perfect video. I have no idea what other settings I can play with to get it to work right, but I know it worked without issue on my Crosshair III board. Does anybody have any suggestions or should I just RMA the board?


Somebody on another forum said he thinks it's a driver issue and some re-configured settings helped him. I've already packed up my board though. Is there anybody else that can confirm the same issue? If it's a driver thing, we should all have the problem.


----------



## PureOC Jim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13960664*
> challenge accepted and completed will send pm with shipping address, (note temps are high due to 90F+ ambient temps, was 100F ambient where i live when test was started)


not convinced. I need a CPUID screen shot


----------



## PureOC Jim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13960664*
> challenge accepted and completed will send pm with shipping address, (note temps are high due to 90F+ ambient temps, was 100F ambient where i live when test was started)


Need CPUID and validation.....on same screen. sry.... with the 3-4 hr.... The OC can be mucked so the CPUID validation makes it more believable... I will send if you with the screenie, but your sig says 4.5GHz stable all day that is the reason I called you out.. If you indeed hit 4.2GHz that is a great chip.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt;13964582*
> Somebody on another forum said he thinks it's a driver issue and some re-configured settings helped him. I've already packed up my board though. Is there anybody else that can confirm the same issue? If it's a driver thing, we should all have the problem.


don't think that I don't read just because I don't respond, sorry if you did! I read every post (almost) I am just a member in here but try to help on anything I can help with but never have LAN problems ever so would be in the same boat with you lol!1 We would be two lan'less guy's just talking on our phones asking questions! So sorry that I don't know or that I can't help

EDIT WE could hook up some strings + paper cups like the old days and see if we can get internet over it just like talking


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13965454*
> don't think that I don't read just because I don't respond, sorry if you did! I read every post (almost) I am just a member in here but try to help on anything I can help with but never have LAN problems ever so would be in the same boat with you lol!1 We would be two lan'less guy's just talking on our phones asking questions! So sorry that I don't know or that I can't help
> 
> EDIT WE could hook up some strings + paper cups like the old days and see if we can get internet over it just like talking


No, I don't think you didn't read it. A couple people responded, which is great. I was just wondering if there was anybody who streamed video in the same manner who was having the same issues. Then I'd know if it was driver related or not. Just a last ditch effort to avoid having to spend $15 and wait a week and a half for a new motherboard









@Edit: Nah, someone would eventually impose data caps on that too


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureOC Jim;13964720*
> not convinced. I need a CPUID screen shot


I've got one of those to, here it is. If you reference the other pics also you will see that im @ 4.2 in prime as well as after its stoped, you cant tell me that I overclocked my cpu mid prime


----------



## SobePmp

^^That's a very impressive overclock THC Butterz! Could you please share your BIOS settings with us?


----------



## THC Butterz

Yah, ill give my settings asap, I just need to write them down but note, Im on water not air


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureOC Jim;13964787*
> Need CPUID and validation.....on same screen. sry.... with the 3-4 hr.... The OC can be mucked so the CPUID validation makes it more believable... I will send if you with the screenie, but your sig says 4.5GHz stable all day that is the reason I called you out.. If you indeed hit 4.2GHz that is a great chip.


doing it again, heres the start


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13969295*
> doing it again, heres the start


WHY WOULD YOU!!!! I know and believe you as most others why do you feel that you have to prove yourself to PureOC Jim? No offense to him but it is not worth hurting your PC it is summer after all and from what I remember you have no A/C so Cali in summer wow that has to be hot! I will give you the TIM if he doesn't make good on it! I don't want anyone forgetting we all have ego's but it is not worth pushing past what we can afford!

I mean if you blow anything up I am going to be pissed at you for acting like a child lol! I watched this fold out and have spoken with you on this and I don't think you have anything to prove, I believe you, I hope others do as well? not everyone makes up scores and sticks the in there sig if they do well I am the dumbest of all!!! I wait one week before changing them just so I know they can be copied and as long is the hardware is about the same it is obtainable!


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*


doing it again, heres the start



halfway there

now between 3rd and forth hour

2min left









done


----------



## Bradford1040

well you dumb dumb I guess you did it again! Did he contact you and ask for shipping address yet? I bet you he hadn't! told you don't do things others ask you to do, unless everyone can benefit from it! This mite be the threads growing pain lesson


----------



## THC Butterz

sabertooth is great, got my 955 up to 4.83ghz


----------



## PureOC Jim

Quote:



Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*


sabertooth is great, got my 955 up to 4.83ghz



















See the X on the validation= no good


----------



## PureOC Jim

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


well you dumb dumb I guess you did it again! Did he contact you and ask for shipping address yet? I bet you he hadn't! told you don't do things others ask you to do, unless everyone can benefit from it! This mite be the threads growing pain lesson


good job. I will send. Good chip. My highest on a 955 was 4.14GHz stable. That was on a 790FXA motherboard.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PureOC Jim*


See the X on the validation= no good


thats a common problem with cpuz on amd bords, esp with asus bords due to the floating HT
look @ post 222, the other one was just for fun


----------



## PureOC Jim

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


well you dumb dumb I guess you did it again! Did he contact you and ask for shipping address yet? I bet you he hadn't! told you don't do things others ask you to do, unless everyone can benefit from it! This mite be the threads growing pain lesson


Great job I will send. I will send early next week.


----------



## PureOC Jim

Quote:



Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*


thats a common problem with cpuz on amd bords, esp with asus bords due to the floating HT
look @ post 222, the other one was just for fun


No. it means it is not valid....


----------



## PureOC Jim

Congrats. Although your chip is a 955, I bet it is binned and like a 975 or 980. Spectacular results. Try a higher multi and lower HTT with 1.6V. I bet you can getr stable farther seeing you validated 4.8GHz. You should easily get that 4.5GHz. I would love to see if you can get her that high..... Stable. No bet, just think you may be able to get 4.5GHz.


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13972190*
> sabertooth is great, got my 955 up to 4.83ghz


*WOW* - 1.656 volts thats enough to fry an egg ?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky;13976586*
> *WOW* - 1.656 volts thats enough to fry an egg ?


naw it can do it, it can do it all night long lol


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13976603*
> naw it can do it, it can do it all night long lol


My 955 on my Sabertooth does not like to go above 3850 but I do not give it more than 1.4 volts
this is as high as my cooler can go
be careful not to burn the eggs


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky;13976671*
> My 955 does not like to go above 3850 but I do not give it more than 1.4 volts
> this is as high as my cooler can go


yeah i understand i was just giving a Adam Sandler reference but max on air I think was 1.55 and max on water I think was 1.6~1.65 can't remember

I have seen 1.79volt on the cpu and 1.6 on the cpu/nb


----------



## DeTeWe

ADD ME please








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1882293

Offending my Sabertooth with a x2 555BE atm (waiting for Bulldozer..). Running 4,[email protected],45V.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeTeWe;13977357*
> ADD ME please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1882293
> 
> Offending my Sabertooth with a x2 555BE atm (waiting for Bulldozer..). Running 4,[email protected],45V.












ADDED


----------



## PureOC Jim

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


naw it can do it, it can do it all night long lol


That kind of voltage will degrade the chip faster. FYI.


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PureOC Jim*


That kind of voltage will degrade the chip faster. FYI.


higher voltage

IF you were cooking an egg on a chip with a voltage of 1.79 which would cook faster the egg or the chip ?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureOC Jim;13980075*
> That kind of voltage will degrade the chip faster. FYI.


which one are you referring to? if the 1.79 then hell yes it will lol you start to get what is called volt leakage but if you mean 1.55~1.65 that is really not all to bad as it only cuts the mtbd in half and that is about 15 years left lol I can't believe AMD on that one the MTBD is 30 years??? lol hell chips from 2 years ago are out dated lol. of coarse no one wants there chips to fry so heat plays a big role in that as well but if nothing (IF IF IF lol) goes wrong in the chip which can happen even at stock volts, 1.55 to 1.65 under water should be about fine for most unless you want to collect relics and run the worlds slowest computer 15 years from now lol. (((""" BIG remember, you are always taking a risk when running over stock""")))

just added the pent 4 slot one had the same MTBD of 30 years and if you got one when they first were available to the public you could test that theory in about 17 more years lol could you imagine running and pent 4 slot 1 now lol


----------



## drizek

I think most of us wouldn't have a problem with our chips dying in a fire 3 months from now, just as long as bulldozer comes out first.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drizek;13981239*
> I think most of us wouldn't have a problem with our chips dying in a fire 3 months from now, just as long as bulldozer comes out first.


thats pretty funny, I am laughing very hard on that one! as I said something just like that the other day to a friend! I am going to push this chip on water to 5.3 when I get BD just to see if I can lol hope I don't d what I did to a few pent 4 socket 478's I melted one right to the board and the board to the tray hard to explain and wish I took picture as it was so funny!!! That was a result of a high overclocked lga478 @ 4ghz lol I had a friend help me volt mod it and took a A/C and had duct work blowing the cold right on the cpu but that did not help in the long run as you just heard lol


----------



## DeTeWe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drizek;13981239*
> I think most of us wouldn't have a problem with our chips dying in a fire 3 months from now, just as long as bulldozer comes out first.


Oh no... Mine has to survive until bulldozer 2 comes out. So please last ~a year


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeTeWe;13981611*
> Oh no... Mine has to survive until bulldozer 2 comes out. So please last ~a year


careful, you don't want to start a AMD panic lol if someone just surfing see's a year on a BD release there will be all kinds of rumors flying around and Intel Fan Boy's pick up on it and start throwing out jokes and saying Ivy this and Sandy that so just for hoping sake say 3~4 months maybe 2 years but no longer lol


----------



## DeTeWe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13981666*
> careful, you don't want to start a AMD panic lol if someone just surfing see's a year on a BD release there will be all kinds of rumors flying around and Intel Fan Boy's pick up on it and start throwing out jokes and saying Ivy this and Sandy that so just for hoping sake say 3~4 months maybe 2 years but no longer lol


lol yeah we should call B***D****2 caterpillar from now on







Or is there already a caterpillar? I think not...
So.. mine is supposed to last until caterpillar comes out..


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeTeWe;13983079*
> lol yeah we should call B***D****2 caterpillar from now on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So.. mine is supposed to last until caterpillar comes out..


do you play games on steam? if so what games as I see you are still using the old 8800 loved mine went from those to 260 216cores to these 460's I really like them but wish I went to the 480's only because of GTAIV dam game lol I get it like 90% on view distance everything else is maxed out


----------



## SBN1977

getting this MB stable at 4.2GHZ is driveing me up the wall, all this load line/calbration is so new to me, which I think is the problem, cant they have it just volt this and that, lol


----------



## drizek

Ya, I don't understand most of the new stuff. I'm hoping that once I do I can get stable at 3.7, but I haven't had the time to figure it out yet.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SBN1977;13983325*
> getting this MB stable at 4.2GHZ is driveing me up the wall, all this load line/calbration is so new to me, which I think is the problem, cant they have it just volt this and that, lol


auto auto auto lol I could not believe it ether but auto on most works the best there are a few settings that need to put extreme on I am sorry trying to get ready to leave to drive to FL from VA so cn't get into it but the CHIV club guys help alot


----------



## SBN1977

doing the auto oc is a good start for oc'ing this MB, for people like us that are confused about this other stuff. Save it to profile, thein start takeing things up. In my case took me from 3.2 to almost 3.8, and just changed the multiplyer for a stable 4Ghz. Since we dont have the same clock speed much less cores, you may have to mess with voltage's much more.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SBN1977;13983575*
> doing the auto oc is a good start for oc'ing this MB, for people like us that are confused about this other stuff. Save it to profile, thein start takeing things up. In my case took me from 3.2 to almost 3.8, and just changed the multiplyer for a stable 4Ghz. Since we dont have the same clock speed much less cores, you may have to mess with voltage's much more.


not what I meant but yes i understand why you thought that, I mean put the LLC on auto bump your volts to safe temps run the cpu/nb around 2600~3000 at a good starting point of 1.40 volts go up or down from there on that I am running 4.440 right now for about two weeks 100% stable and just tweaking mem now, the cpu is 1.59375 i think like i said sorry trying to get out of here but if I dn't make it out will come back on and explian it more


----------



## SBN1977

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13983394*
> auto auto auto lol I could not believe it ether but auto on most works the best there are a few settings that need to put extreme on I am sorry trying to get ready to leave to drive to FL from VA so can't get into it but the CHIV club guys help alot


Well thats my problemI dont know which ones I should jump up since my last 3 MB's were Foxconn/DFI both intell, and Asrock deluxe4 AMD, all total difrent. I'm already rma'ing my Asrock threw them,"I dont wait for rma's I by another MB as in this one, lol" so dont wana blow this MB by trying crazy stuff, without a spare


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SBN1977;13983738*
> Well thats my problemI dont know which ones I should jump up since my last 3 MB's were Foxconn/DFI both intell, and Asrock deluxe4 AMD, all total difrent. I'm already rma'ing my Asrock threw them,"I dont wait for rma's I by another MB as in this one, lol" so dont wana blow this MB by trying crazy stuff, without a spare


well it looks as if i am not going tonight anyway my well pump is not working so have to sit in my own smell ewwww! lol

Ok well what are you trying to do lets start from were you don't understand go


----------



## SBN1977

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13983638*
> not what I meant but yes i understand why you thought that, I mean put the LLC on auto bump your volts to safe temps run the cpu/nb around 2600~3000 at a good starting point of 1.40 volts go up or down from there on that I am running 4.440 right now for about two weeks 100% stable and just tweaking mem now, the cpu is 1.59375 i think like i said sorry trying to get out of here but if I dn't make it out will come back on and explian it more


I ment to put that respond with drizek, lol


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SBN1977;13983804*
> I ment to put that respond with drizek, lol


ok so you got everything covered then? you don't need help?


----------



## SBN1977

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13983768*
> well it looks as if i am not going tonight anyway my well pump is not working so have to sit in my own smell ewwww! lol
> 
> Ok well what are you trying to do lets start from were you don't understand go


First thing stay out of FL, were all a bit crazy, lol. I know i can take 1.5v without any problem's evan without useing my Indego Extreme, Just useing the noctua NT-H1 right now, not going to waste Indego, until I know MB is good. I just dont really understand these line load/calabrations stuff, which at 4ghz dont evan have to touch but, after i think I do. Also at 4.2 im really trying not to mess with FSB and stuff but i think I may have to.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SBN1977;13983961*
> First thing stay out of FL, were all a bit crazy, lol. I know i can take 1.5v without any problem's evan without useing my Indego Extreme, Just useing the noctua NT-H1 right now, not going to waste Indego, until I know MB is good. I just dont really understand these line load/calabrations stuff, which at 4ghz dont evan have to touch but, after i think I do. Also at 4.2 im really trying not to mess with FSB and stuff but i think I may have to.


yeah 4.2 with just multi, well your right you guys are nuts lol and on that note I have a house in WPB. I have to go anyway my daughter is expecting me to pick her up and bring her back to VA she is most likely going to stay for good as well which I am happy about, well eoungh personal lol, LLC just leave it alone anyway auto! the cpu power phase control extreme, thecpu power duty control move over to Crobe not Trobe cpu voltage frequency leave auto there as well now if you wantto know why those settings I can explian but those are about the most stable settings so you can get you OC ok


----------



## drizek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13983768*
> well it looks as if i am not going tonight anyway my well pump is not working so have to sit in my own smell ewwww! lol
> 
> Ok well what are you trying to do lets start from were you don't understand go


I'll take the help.

I used to run stable at 17.5x Multi, 1.5V, 207 FSB with my Gigabyte board. That was 3.62GHz. The CPUNB was at default speeds since my board wouldn't POST when I OCd it.

I used Auto OC on my Asus to get it like the CPU Z

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1882900

Help me OC my CPUNB and get the core clock to 3.7. What should I change in the ASUS Digi+ VRM settings?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drizek;13984160*
> I'll take the help.
> 
> I used to run stable at 17.5x Multi, 1.5V, 207 FSB with my Gigabyte board. That was 3.62GHz. The CPUNB was at default speeds since my board wouldn't POST when I OCd it.
> 
> I used Auto OC on my Asus to get it like the CPU Z
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1882900
> 
> Help me OC my CPUNB and get the core clock to 3.7. What should I change in the ASUS Digi+ VRM settings?


about the same as I just wrote him, I know it is hard to understand but think of this ASUS really did a good job on the auto settings on this board as I was at first not even willing to believe in my last ASUS board was stable at same speed but with more volts and not 100% like this board just takes a little time and we will all learn some new cool stuff


----------



## SBN1977

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13984152*
> yeah 4.2 with just multi, well your right you guys are nuts lol and on that note I have a house in WPB. I have to go anyway my daughter is expecting me to pick her up and bring her back to VA she is most likely going to stay for good as well which I am happy about, well eoungh personal lol, LLC just leave it alone anyway auto! the cpu power phase control extreme, thecpu power duty control move over to Crobe not Trobe cpu voltage frequency leave auto there as well now if you wantto know why those settings I can explian but those are about the most stable settings so you can get you OC ok


Very cool man about your daughter, my daughter lives with and I'm a single father, so I wish you the best of luck, Thanks for the info about setting, now get some sleep for that drive.


----------



## Bradford1040

there are so many things I keep learning on this and every other thing in this aluminum box lol that my life has seemed to revolve around, I myself was in the same boat just two weeks ago this was my first LLC board as well as a fw more settings I never seen! Hoped on over to the CrossHair IV thread and read for hours plus asked a few questions as well then a plensent call to ASUS in which ended with me yelling at the $7 a hour jerk on the other end because my dog knows more than e did!!!! (Thank you ASUS for finding such great people to answer tech calls lol) but after most stuff I found out the same old thing applyed test BSOD test BSOD test BSOD SCREAM AT IT ( that did not work btw) back to testing lol


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SBN1977;13984304*
> Very cool man about your daughter, my daughter lives with and I'm a single father, so I wish you the best of luck, Thanks for the info about setting, now get some sleep for that drive.


as I said not going till morning now so I got time to help kinda need to change out my res as well got a crack in it (crying at crack in FrozenQ res)

but just ask away I am up for a bit


----------



## drizek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13984209*
> about the same as I just wrote him, I know it is hard to understand but think of this ASUS really did a good job on the auto settings on this board as I was at first not even willing to believe in my last ASUS board was stable at same speed but with more volts and not 100% like this board just takes a little time and we will all learn some new cool stuff


Running at 3717MHz now. Thanks.Stable for 5 minutes of linpack


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drizek;13984369*
> Running at 3717MHz now. Thanks.Stable for 5 minutes of linpack


is that all you wanted 3.7? how about your cpu/nb? where you at on that? life for a AMD start's and can be made to open eyes up when you get that up out of the 2000 basement


----------



## THC Butterz

wow, easiest way is to just up cpu voltage a little, auto oc, up voltage alittle, auto oc again etc, auto oc will give you higher clocks depending on how much voltage you give the cpu, you should be able to go to 4, although 3.7s ok for now


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13984414*
> wow, easiest way is to just up cpu voltage a little, auto oc, up voltage alittle, auto oc again etc, auto oc will give you higher clocks depending on how much voltage you give the cpu, you should be able to go to 4, although 3.7s ok for now


no it was not just about getting there it was learning why it does andI just got another palmetto bug on me I can't stand them dam things!!!!!!!!!!!! Why are they coming in my house?????? I don' ever remember them being this bad even in FL wow


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13984469*
> no it was not just about getting there it was learning why it does andI just got another palmetto bug on me I can't stand them dam things!!!!!!!!!!!! Why are they coming in my house?????? I don' ever remember them being this bad even in FL wow


"palmetto bug" is off topic lol:laugher:


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13984522*
> "palmetto bug" is off topic lol


you get one on you in the middle of typing and see how long you stay on topic lol, dam things are creepy and they have no fear they will come right up on you and walk around on your legs and such god I hate them gross!!!! sorry guys that is one thing I can't stand and rant about BUGS anything with more than four legs is gross or bad like wolf spiders or brown recluse and not so piousness but just as creepy palmetto BUGS. HATE HATE HATE em


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13984582*
> you get one on you in the middle of typing and see how long you stay on topic lol, dam things are creepy and they have no fear they will come right up on you and walk around on your legs and such god I hate them gross!!!! sorry guys that is one thing I can't stand and rant about BUGS anything with more than four legs is gross or bad like wolf spiders or brown recluse and not so piousness but just as creepy palmetto BUGS. HATE HATE HATE em










:buttkick:


----------



## SBN1977

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13984339*
> as I said not going till morning now so I got time to help kinda need to change out my res as well got a crack in it (crying at crack in FrozenQ res)
> 
> but just ask away I am up for a bit


Amzing, lol. Just changing CPU power, and CPU duty, passed 3 runs of 06 and 3 runs of vantage, also BurnInTest Pro, and about 15min of AIDA64, shut it down myself. I set voltage a bit higher than I thought I needed, but can always go back, before those changes, I coudnt pass much of anything so thanks big time. Have a +12 offset on core temp. I know what I ran doesnt mean I'm 100% stable, but at the same time your not going to pass all those test strait without being close, so thats good enough for now


----------



## drizek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13984414*
> wow, easiest way is to just up cpu voltage a little, auto oc, up voltage alittle, auto oc again etc, auto oc will give you higher clocks depending on how much voltage you give the cpu, you should be able to go to 4, although 3.7s ok for now


It won't go past 3.7, at least not on air. I ran OCCT and had it go stable for 1 hour, now I overclocked the NB to 2613 and am testing again.

Power management automatically drops the clock speed, but it stays at max voltage all the time. How can I change that? It's running way too hot at idle like this at 1.55v.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drizek;13986464*
> It won't go past 3.7, at least not on air. I ran OCCT and had it go stable for 1 hour, now I overclocked the NB to 2613 and am testing again.
> 
> Power management automatically drops the clock speed, but it stays at max voltage all the time. How can I change that? It's running way too hot at idle like this at 1.55v.


well you can do a few things but number one do you mind I know it sucks doing but right down your settings in the bios and post them I know it is hard but if you do I mite see something you forgot it happens to everyone or I just mite see a way to get more on air remember we all had air at some point and I ran on air for many years this is my first water cooling rig so if you can please post and I will do my best to help


----------



## drizek

So at 2.6 CPUNB OCCT gives errors at 1.35V. I upped to 1.4V and it seems to be working, but is that too high a voltage for the NB?

Edit: @Bradford, I'm going to sleep now, but I'll post my settings tomorrow. If you're still around.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drizek;13986923*
> So at 2.6 CPUNB OCCT gives errors at 1.35V. I upped to 1.4V and it seems to be working, but is that too high a voltage for it?


no it is not to high! 1.45 is safe even for air cooled I thought I told you to put it thereto start with then go up or down .05?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;13983638*
> I mean put the LLC on auto bump your volts to safe temps run the cpu/nb around 2600~3000 at a good starting point of 1.40 volts go up or down from there


yeah I did lol I thought I was slipping lol


----------



## Bradford1040

when did we start being able to use the banner does anyone know? I could swear we couldn't just a month ago?

I kinda like that but as more find out I bet we will be seeing allot of them in sigs now or just a lot in one thread


----------



## Mreek

Add me please? =)
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1884065


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## Mast3rRoot

Hi All! I have just set up my Sabertooth 990FX board today, and I am running Windows 7 64 bit, and I just cant get asus AI Suite 2 to install, just like Rockaholik.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockaHoliK;13834730*
> Hey Guys,
> 
> i just got my Sabertooth 990fx but i cant install the asus ai suite 2 under windows 7 64bit.
> 
> Is this a common problem or are u guys able to install it?
> 
> rockaholik


Has there been a solution to this issue? or is it still unanswered?

Thanks!

Mast3rRoot


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mast3rRoot;13996998*
> Hi All! I have just set up my Sabertooth 990FX board today, and I am running Windows 7 64 bit, and I just cant get asus AI Suite 2 to install, just like Rockaholik.
> 
> Has there been a solution to this issue? or is it still unanswered?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Mast3rRoot


no answer yet, if i had the issue it would be solved by now but since that hasnt happened dont know what to tell you, did you do a fresh install of windows??


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mast3rRoot;13996998*
> Hi All! I have just set up my Sabertooth 990FX board today, and I am running Windows 7 64 bit, and I just cant get asus AI Suite 2 to install, just like Rockaholik.
> 
> Has there been a solution to this issue? or is it still unanswered?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Mast3rRoot


ASUS has said that you have to do a clean install of windows because the old motherboard drivers on the hard drive will conflict with AI Suite and there is no easy way to remove all the old motherboard drivers from the hard drive


----------



## caffeinescandal

Hey guys, I'm not sure if this is off topic or not, but its about the Sabertooth. Anyway, you are all aware that our motherboards come with the "TUF INSIDE" Sticker/Decal. I was just wondering if you guys knew the proper term for this and where I can have a custom made sticker/decal with the same quality as the TUF INSIDE sticker/decal.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caffeinescandal;13997916*
> Hey guys, I'm not sure if this is off topic or not, but its about the Sabertooth. Anyway, you are all aware that our motherboards come with the "TUF INSIDE" Sticker/Decal. I was just wondering if you guys knew the proper term for this and where I can have a custom made sticker/decal with the same quality as the TUF INSIDE sticker/decal.


It would be called a Applique, you can get them made here http://www.crazypc.com/products/PQ2-8224.html


----------



## Rayleyne

Not sure if you guys can halp, but i am having some issues with my Sabertooth, I had 8Gb of ram, two sticks don't work leaving me with 4gb, and it posts with 4gb, but x64 bit windows says this.

with all 4 in(Known bad ram)
8GB installed (2.95 usable)
4gb(bios post it doesn't appear to detect the other 2 sticks, obviously because they are bad)

with 2 in(Known good ones)
4GB installed (2.95 usable)
4GB Bios post screen)

with 1 working stick in.

2GB installed (1.95 usable)
2GB Bios post screen)

http://www.overclock.net/amd-memory/1050096-my-new-mobo-appears-eating-ram.html

Is a link to another thread for more information.

I mean the boards brand new, so it shouldn't be a problem that said i am thinking of picking up this since its obvious my current ram kit has issues

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CORSAIR-Vengeance-CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9B-16GB-4x-4GB-/180687107602?pt=AU_Components&hash=item2a11ca7612 Is what i intend to pick up to replace it, any other ideas though?


----------



## Mast3rRoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky;13997532*
> ASUS has said that you have to do a clean install of windows because the old motherboard drivers on the hard drive will conflict with AI Suite and there is no easy way to remove all the old motherboard drivers from the hard drive


Oh, thats dumb.. How am I supposed to save my programs and stuff? Cause wouldnt a system image recovery transfer the drivers back into the system?


----------



## SobePmp

^^ I saw a new version of AI Suite on the Asus forums that's supposed to correct the installation problems people have been having. I don't have a link but it's stickied in the motherboard section so it's easy to find.


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mast3rRoot;13999219*
> Oh, thats dumb.. How am I supposed to save my programs and stuff? Cause wouldnt a system image recovery transfer the drivers back into the system?


If you run windows install from inside of windows it will save your old stuf but i would do backups anyway


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mast3rRoot;13999219*
> Oh, thats dumb.. How am I supposed to save my programs and stuff? Cause wouldnt a system image recovery transfer the drivers back into the system?


I hate to say this because it is not the way I normally respond to any question, but how could you not know that you have to do a clean install with a new board, I mean I knew it but tried to see if I could get by as the old board was another asus but it took two or three days for the problems to start poping up (drives not showing up, bad admin probs, ad just f'd up system to say the least) so I bit the bullet and re installed, but always and I mean always windows doss not like change lol! I don't want you to think I am picking on you as I can help with saving some programs, cause I know that is the part that sucks, most have a cracked program or two they don't have set up for anymore and don't want to lose but think of this they have new version out by now so you will be able to upgrade it anyway, and as I said some are saveable if this is your concern


----------



## soth7676

Anyone know if this board has a speed cap on SSDs like the marvell chips??? I want to do. BD build as well as my SB(for comparisions) and have a crucial M4 64 for it... would I be able use it full speeds on it??

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mast3rRoot*


Oh, thats dumb.. How am I supposed to save my programs and stuff? Cause wouldnt a system image recovery transfer the drivers back into the system?


Windows, is not licensed to your HDD, your case, or any other random part, Each new license of windows is licensed to the mothwebord it was first installed with, due to the fact that this is a new Motherbord you should have a clean copy of windows otherwise your breaking about a half dozen of microsofts Terms of service so a fresh install to install the motherbord drivers is what you are supposed to do anyway


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soth7676*


Anyone know if this board has a speed cap on SSDs like the marvell chips??? I want to do. BD build as well as my SB(for comparisions) and have a crucial M4 64 for it... would I be able use it full speeds on it??

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk


as far as I know there is full speed on the sata ports


----------



## mrjazz1959

Hey I have no ability to SLI this board


----------



## SBN1977

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mrjazz1959*


Hey I have no ability to SLI this board


Try the Nvidia 275.50 drivers, there beta. Found them on guru3d


----------



## SBN1977

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


as far as I know there is full speed on the sata ports


Only the white slots will slow you down since there only sata2, here is a review I found that benchmark the 2 controllers I found, not useing SDD, but still a big difrense from chipset and Jmicron. on further pages show's you SDD but just on the SB http://www.hardocp.com/article/2011/...board_review/3


----------



## dixson01974

I have a question about the Sabretooth 990FX AM3+. I'm going to be ordering one next week.
Can it unlock cores?


----------



## SBN1977

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dixson01974*


I have a question about the Sabretooth 990FX AM3+. I'm going to be ordering one next week.
Can it unlock cores?


I have no ideal how well it works, but yes it does


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dixson01974*


I have a question about the Sabretooth 990FX AM3+. I'm going to be ordering one next week.
Can it unlock cores?


yes, there is a core unlocker in the bios


----------



## dixson01974

Cool. Thanx.


----------



## darivo

im in the same line that Dixson said.

i have an unlocked 720 running like a rock, but i dont know how this bios works.....

i saw some member who have phenomx2 and phenomx3 but anyone said about core unlocker.

please, post your experiences about this

Thanks Very much


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *darivo*


im in the same line that Dixson said.

i have an unlocked 720 running like a rock, but i dont know how this bios works.....

i saw some member who have phenomx2 and phenomx3 but anyone said about core unlocker.

please, post your experiences about this

Thanks Very much


I would help you out, but ive never had a cpu with this board that has less than 4 cores sorry


----------



## drizek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *darivo*


im in the same line that Dixson said.

i have an unlocked 720 running like a rock, but i dont know how this bios works.....

i saw some member who have phenomx2 and phenomx3 but anyone said about core unlocker.

please, post your experiences about this

Thanks Very much


advanced, cpu options, and enable the core unlocker there.


----------



## darivo

thanks Butterz.

i will continue checkig this post if someone unlock his CPU

OQ: what is Vdroop of this MOBO in idle and heavy load (prime95, linx...)??

Thanks


----------



## darivo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drizek*


advanced, cpu options, and enable the core unlocker there.



you used Core Unlocker too??
Works?

Thanks


----------



## drizek

It didn't work for me. System was really unstable, but it all depends on your CPU. My 4th core is just unstable.


----------



## caffeinescandal

Core unlocker worked for me. Had to bump up cpu voltage to get it stable.


----------



## drizek

Mine wasn't unstable, it was totally corrupting everything.


----------



## darivo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *caffeinescandal*


Core unlocker worked for me. Had to bump up cpu voltage to get it stable.


TY mate. can you tell me your Vcore voltaje??

and i wish to know the Vcore in idle and Vcore under high load to see the Vdroop between this 2 states.

Drizek, my actual 720 is fully stable but i know there are many bios to get full stable when unlocking....

thanks to all


----------



## caffeinescandal

Heres a screenshot of cpu-z. I didnt bother oc'ing this chip since its a bad oc'er anyway, only got it up to 3.4ghz stable on 3 cores and 3.2ghz on 4. I should note that I am also running 3 sticks of ram.


----------



## Mast3rRoot

Oh yeah, BTW. Please add me also.

I am running a Phenom II X4 955 BE C3

here is a link verifying that I am running a Sabertooth 990FX

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1886334

Thanks!


----------



## darivo

thanks for your pic.


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## darivo

where can i find the english manual??

in the web site of asus, i only can download the German Manual..


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darivo;14019706*
> where can i find the english manual??
> 
> in the web site of asus, i only can download the German Manual..


In the box...when you buy it


----------



## darivo

you owned me!


----------



## Mast3rRoot

Hello! Does anyone happen to know how to change the CPU multiplier in the UEFI bios? I have figured out how to change the bus speed. But, I mostly overclock by changing the multiplier...
I have looked in the manual, and have not found out how to do it in the bios.

BTW, I do have a CPU that has an unlocked multiplier, so it should be working.
I use to be able to do it on my old Asus board, but with this new Bios, its sometimes tough to find stuff. I assume that its there somewhere, cause why would I pay for a $200 board, only to find out that it cant change a cpu multiplier.

Thanks!


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mast3rRoot;14023584*
> Hello! Does anyone happen to know how to change the CPU multiplier in the UEFI bios? I have figured out how to change the bus speed. But, I mostly overclock by changing the multiplier...
> I have looked in the manual, and have not found out how to do it in the bios.
> 
> BTW, I do have a CPU that has an unlocked multiplier, so it should be working.
> I use to be able to do it on my old Asus board, but with this new Bios, its sometimes tough to find stuff. I assume that its there somewhere, cause why would I pay for a $200 board, only to find out that it cant change a cpu multiplier.
> 
> Thanks!


It's in the advanced view under AI Tweaker. Should be in the first section. You'll have to either hit + or type in a value to change it.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mast3rRoot;14023584*
> Hello! Does anyone happen to know how to change the CPU multiplier in the UEFI bios? I have figured out how to change the bus speed. But, I mostly overclock by changing the multiplier...
> I have looked in the manual, and have not found out how to do it in the bios.
> 
> BTW, I do have a CPU that has an unlocked multiplier, so it should be working.
> I use to be able to do it on my old Asus board, but with this new Bios, its sometimes tough to find stuff. I assume that its there somewhere, cause why would I pay for a $200 board, only to find out that it cant change a cpu multiplier.
> 
> Thanks!


its the 3rd option down in ai tweeker (cpu ratio) press + and - to change it

Does anyone know how to configure the onboard raid on this motherboard, I just ordered 2 raptors for a stripe and cant find the option in the bios to configure a raid


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14024115*
> its the 3rd option down in ai tweeker (cpu ratio) press + and - to change it
> 
> Does anyone know how to configure the onboard raid on this motherboard, I just ordered 2 raptors for a stripe and cant find the option in the bios to configure a raid


Bios - Advanced - SATA Configuration - OnChip SATA Channel [enabled] - SATA Ports 1 to 4 set to [Raid]
See page 3-17

then goto page 4-30


----------



## darivo

please, someone who have OCed Cpu can post pics with Vcore in idle and Full stress load???

thanks in advance


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darivo;14026719*
> please, someone who have OCed Cpu can post pics with Vcore in idle and Full stress load???
> 
> thanks in advance


2 pic's


----------



## darivo

0.036 of VDroop... what is your Vcore manual setting (in bios), 1.356 or 1.392?

thank you mate


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darivo;14031755*
> 0.036 of vdroop... What is your vcore manual setting (in bios), 1.356 or 1.392?
> 
> Thank you mate


auto - i like to run all voltages auto if i can - 1.356 shows up next to auto - i like to run cool and quiet


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *darivo*


0.036 of VDroop... what is your Vcore manual setting (in bios), 1.356 or 1.392?

thank you mate



cnq adjusts voltage, otherwise there in no change, my motherbord has no vdroop whatsoever


----------



## SBN1977

Quote:



Originally Posted by *darivo*


0.036 of VDroop... what is your Vcore manual setting (in bios), 1.356 or 1.392?

thank you mate


There no point in wondering what someone is running since AMD cpu's can run so different form one system to another even if itâ€™s the same CPU and MB. All you really need to know is this MB can OC just as well as any other 990 MB out there. This MB just doesnâ€™t have all the extra stuff you will really never use anyhow.


----------



## Tweeky

Japanese manual now available

http://support.asus.com/Download.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&s=24&m=SABERTOOTH%20990FX&os=30&ft=12&f_name=J6401_Sabertooth_990FX.zip#J6401_Sabertooth_990FX.zip


----------



## THC Butterz

I now know how to run raid... by changeing the sb settings in the bios, but still haven't figured out how to configure the raid, IE... raid 0, raid 1 etc


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14058266*
> I now know how to run raid... by changeing the sb settings in the bios, but still haven't figured out how to configure the raid, IE... raid 0, raid 1 etc


Is there an option to see the RAID BIOS? Last time I ever ran RAID, that's how I had to do it. Can't check myself, my replacement board won't be here until tomorrow.


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14058266*
> I now know how to run raid... by changeing the sb settings in the bios, but still haven't figured out how to configure the raid, IE... raid 0, raid 1 etc


Please see page 4-31 to 4-33 in the manual
When you set up raid it will destroy all the file on your raid setup drives so do a backup first


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky;14059209*
> Please see page 4-31 to 4-33 in the manual
> When you set up raid it will destroy all the file on your raid setup drives so do a backup first


not worried about that, got 2 blank raptors yesterday for the raid, for programs, got ssd for os and baracuda for games

thanks tweeky figgured it out


----------



## TheTazMan

Add Me to the club. I just replaced my Foxconn Destroyer with this Sabertooth and have no clue how to overclock it . On my Destroyer i was able to get 4.1GHz on 1.376 volts but here im too confused to even try to OC
can anyone give me any tips on wich settings i should change in the EUFI bios?


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## TheTazMan

so any tips on how i should start overclocking this board?


----------



## capitaltpt

Go into the Advanced View of the BIOS (up with the exit button) and then go to the AI Tweaker Tab. Here it has all your settings for voltages and clocks. Try the auto option for Over Clocking as a starting point.


----------



## dixson01974

FYI
The core unlocker works just fine on the Sabertooth. I just get my rig back up and running after the Sabertooth mobo upgrade.


----------



## darivo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dixson01974;14065954*
> FYI
> The core unlocker works just fine on the Sabertooth. I just get my rig back up and running after the Sabertooth mobo upgrade.


thank you very much

i hope you can post pics with you OC


----------



## SBN1977

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheTazMan*


so any tips on how i should start overclocking this board?


The auto OC, then go from there. I went from 3.8 to 4.2 pretty easy that way, heck at 4ghz, I really didnt have to change anything. Just didnâ€™t know about the line calabration/power stuff option's was my only problem. After I did the Auto I did switch to the DOCP mode, and also went to direct type in voltage instead of the +/- mode, not sure if those the best way, just what I did. This MB starts right back up after a fail OC, so donâ€™t worry to much about pushing it.


----------



## headmixer

Fellow OCNers,

I do realize that the "AMD Sabertooth" and " Crosshair V" are new release boards.

I have never bought/owned a new release board, and expect that there will be improvements in functionallity and features as new BIOS updates are released.

The "AMD Sabertooth" apears to be in the best order right now IMO. The only short comming that I have found is the SATA does not seem to be running in SATA III mode in a RAID0 strip. This also applies to the "Crosshair V"

AS SSD on Crosshair IV Formule with 6x Crucial M4s RAID0 strip.
Attachment 217863
AS SSD on AMD Sabertooth with 6x Crucial C300s RAID0 strip.
Attachment 217864
AS SSD on Crosshair V with 6x Crucial M4s RAID0 strip.
Attachment 217865

All three were fresh installs. They all use the same driver. They all have the same tweeks applied.

IMO the "Crosshair V" leaves a little to be desired, like NB, VRM, SB temps would be nice. And the afore mentioned lack of SATA preformance. DO NOT TAKE ME WRONG. The "Crosshair V" is a nice board. It just seems that they throw a BIOS together at the last moment (for both of these boards) to get these boards out on the street. Hopefully the next BIOS release will add/and improve these features.

Note; Have not tried the SLI as of yet. Plan to do so on the Crosshair V at a later date.


----------



## SBN1977

Quote:



Originally Posted by *headmixer*


Fellow OCNers,

I do realize that the "AMD Sabertooth" and " Crosshair V" are new release boards.

I have never bought/owned a new release board, and expect that there will be improvements in functionallity and features as new BIOS updates are released.

The "AMD Sabertooth" apears to be in the best order right now IMO. The only short comming that I have found is the SATA does not seem to be running in SATA III mode in a RAID0 strip. This also applies to the "Crosshair V"

AS SSD on Crosshair IV Formule with 6x Crucial M4s RAID0 strip.
Attachment 217863
AS SSD on AMD Sabertooth with 6x Crucial C300s RAID0 strip.
Attachment 217864
AS SSD on Crosshair V with 6x Crucial M4s RAID0 strip.
Attachment 217865

All three were fresh installs. They all use the same driver. They all have the same tweeks applied.

IMO the "Crosshair V" leaves a little to be desired, like NB, VRM, SB temps would be nice. And the afore mentioned lack of SATA preformance. DO NOT TAKE ME WRONG. The "Crosshair V" is a nice board. It just seems that they throw a BIOS together at the last moment (for both of these boards) to get these boards out on the street. Hopefully the next BIOS release will add/and improve these features.

Note; Have not tried the SLI as of yet. Plan to do so on the Crosshair V at a later date.



The Sabertooth is about 50mb's slower all around than my last MB in Asrock Deluxe4 in speed, but that should be fixed since the the chipsets are about the same, I'm not running SSD's but had the same sata3 drives on both, canâ€™t really tell any difference on my 750's raid 0, but my 1.5TB does seem to process things slower enough to tell. I said a while ago here that they need a upgrade to fix it, bios or chipset driver wise, just hope they do.


----------



## TheTazMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SBN1977;14071809*
> The auto OC, then go from there. I went from 3.8 to 4.2 pretty easy that way, heck at 4ghz, I really didnt have to change anything. Just didn't know about the line calabration/power stuff option's was my only problem. After I did the Auto I did switch to the DOCP mode, and also went to direct type in voltage instead of the +/- mode, not sure if those the best way, just what I did. This MB starts right back up after a fail OC, so don't worry to much about pushing it.


thanks for the tips i just bout a h50 wich made my temps cool enough to OC and i started at Auto then i used manual and now running at 4GHz i just have a question whats the highest CPU-NB frequency you reached and how much volts you put into the CPU-NB


----------



## SBN1977

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheTazMan;14076133*
> thanks for the tips i just bout a h50 wich made my temps cool enough to OC and i started at Auto then i used manual and now running at 4GHz i just have a question whats the highest CPU-NB frequency you reached and how much volts you put into the CPU-NB


I'm running at 2808 at 1.35, haven't tried to go higher, I'm stable so I'm happy, maybe later on I'll try to go higher. For 2800, I did put CPU/NB Load at extreme, had random freezes on vantage before I did that. Putting a attachment of what I have, not saying go what I have since someone else could say less volts or whatever. but it's stable for me. One thing I hate about AMD, even if we both had same CPU's are voltage could still be different.


----------



## TheTazMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SBN1977;14076809*
> I'm running at 2808 at 1.35, haven't tried to go higher, I'm stable so I'm happy, maybe later on I'll try to go higher. For 2800, I did put CPU/NB Load at extreme, had random freezes on vantage before I did that. Putting a attachment of what I have, not saying go what I have since someone else could say less volts or whatever. but it's stable for me. One thing I hate about AMD, even if we both had same CPU's are voltage could still be different.


yeah your right ur at 1.5volts and im only at 1.38 but then again ur at 4.2 im at 4Ghz


----------



## TheTazMan

ive noticed something weird when i had AI suite installed when my computer would boot the LED's on my fans would tunr of for a sec and turn back on did anyone else experience this?


----------



## THC Butterz

Im sitting at 4.2ghz and havent adjusted any voltage, if you leave it at auto, the voltage will automaticly adjust to what the motherbord thinks youll need for your oc


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheTazMan;14077978*
> ive noticed something weird when i had AI suite installed when my computer would boot the LED's on my fans would tunr of for a sec and turn back on did anyone else experience this?


my fans fluctuate also, yes its normal, usually at login


----------



## TheTazMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14078025*
> my fans fluctuate also, yes its normal, usually at login


well thats good i thought my mobo was going crazy. i just set my voltage to 1.375 and left it there for CPU core and 1.3 for CPU NB i can get 2600MHZ CPU-NB with 1.3 but if i try 2800 it fails on prime im getting used to this board and im starting to love it more than i loved my destroyer


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt;13941543*
> Having a network issue and I"m not sure if it's related to the Sabertooth board or not. When using a Media Server (PS3 Media Server, Vuze, PlayOn) to stream to my PS3, the video stops every 4-5 seconds for a few seconds before resuming. It happens with several different types of video and always stops at the same places despite which media server I'm using. I have been using this setup for over a year with no issues until I changed motherboards to the Sabertooth. Internet seems to be working without issue. All Videos also play on the desktop with no issue.
> 
> Wired Connection to PS3 through CAT6 cable and Netgear WNDR3700 Router. Have tried resetting router, resetting PS3, changing cables with no luck. I have also uninstalled and re-installed Realtek drivers. Anybody have any suggestions? Is this definitely a problem with the board at this point?


So I received my replacement board and upon installation, I had the same problem again. Someone on the PS3 Media Server forums had the same board and found a solution however.

Go to Device Manager => Network Adapters => Realtek Family Controller. Right click Properties, then click in the Advanced Tap and set "Jumbo Frame" from disabled to 9KB MTU. I have no idea why Jumbo Frame must be on, but it works. The only thing I can figure is that it must be an error in the drivers somewhere.

I'm going to e-mail ASUS about this issue, but thought I would post here in case anyone else is having an issue.


----------



## dixson01974

Is it me or the 990FX platform is faster then the 890FX platform?

EDIT
Add me to the club.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1890963


----------



## TheTazMan

so ive been overclocking a bit and just wanted to show you guys how far i got.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheTazMan*


so ive been overclocking a bit and just wanted to show you guys how far i got.


not bad for a H50


----------



## TheTazMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14082732*
> not bad for a H50


what voltage is your 955 running at?


----------



## apollomaker

Hello Guys --- great section you have here --- need some simple help please!

Just got my build with the 990FX going and found that I cannot get it to interface with Win7 for a basic install (UEFI). Clearly, I am missing something in the process but cannot find ANY info on how-to here. I have provided a GPT drive for the install. Only one drive - keeping it simple. Win7 just wants to see the 990X as an MBR system. I get error at install that says "cannot install Windows becaus of MBR drive". What am I missing in the process? SATA drive ports all set to AHCI. I thought the Win7-ASUS UEFI bios was an automatic process? Am I wrong? If so, what do I need to add here?

Feeling a bit stupid here cuz I don't see anyone else with the same problem --- this has to be simple, whatever I am missing. Any help greatly appreciated -- maybe someone has done a simple write-up. This is my first UEFI computer.

Thanks again for any help guys ---


----------



## IOSEFINI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apollomaker;14086570*
> Hello Guys --- great section you have here --- need some simple help please!
> 
> Just got my build with the 990FX going and found that I cannot get it to interface with Win7 for a basic install (UEFI). Clearly, I am missing something in the process but cannot find ANY info on how-to here. I have provided a GPT drive for the install. Only one drive - keeping it simple. Win7 just wants to see the 990X as an MBR system. I get error at install that says "cannot install Windows becaus of MBR drive". What am I missing in the process? SATA drive ports all set to AHCI. I thought the Win7-ASUS UEFI bios was an automatic process? Am I wrong? If so, what do I need to add here?
> 
> Feeling a bit stupid here cuz I don't see anyone else with the same problem --- this has to be simple, whatever I am missing. Any help greatly appreciated -- maybe someone has done a simple write-up. This is my first UEFI computer.
> 
> Thanks again for any help guys ---


is your w7 a 64 bit one.?
I read somewere that only 64bit is supported


----------



## apollomaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IOSEFINI;14086618*
> is your w7 a 64 bit one.?
> I read somewere that only 64bit is supported


Hello --- yes, I am running Win7-64 bit and yes, it is the only one with UEFI support.







--- It appears that many here have been through the process of installation of a UEFI setup. This is really frustrating









Thanks!!!


----------



## IOSEFINI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apollomaker;14086665*
> Hello --- yes, I am running Win7-64 bit and yes, it is the only one with UEFI support.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- It appears that many here have been through the process of installation of a UEFI setup. This is really frustrating
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!!!


OK. a funny thing happened to me when I tried to install W7 --> after formatting the drive, that 100MB system reserved partition was missing and couldn't install it. there was an error message, but dont remember it.
I put that drive in an older comp. and did the format there. That fixed the problem


----------



## apollomaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IOSEFINI;14086737*
> OK. a funny thing happened to me when I tried to install W7 --> after formatting the drive, that 100MB system reserved partition was missing and couldn't install it. there was an error message, but dont remember it.
> I put that drive in an older comp. and did the format there. That fixed the problem


Hi There --- OK, so let me ask this. Was the GPT disk EMPTY (clear of all partitions) when you started the install? Or, did you have to create partitions manually BEFORE the install? How much did Win7 and the ASUS UEFI bios do for the partitioning automatically? Tell me what you did ----

Thanks --


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apollomaker;14086570*
> Hello Guys --- great section you have here --- need some simple help please!
> 
> Just got my build with the 990FX going and found that I cannot get it to interface with Win7 for a basic install (UEFI). Clearly, I am missing something in the process but cannot find ANY info on how-to here. I have provided a GPT drive for the install. Only one drive - keeping it simple. Win7 just wants to see the 990X as an MBR system. I get error at install that says "cannot install Windows becaus of MBR drive". What am I missing in the process? SATA drive ports all set to AHCI. I thought the Win7-ASUS UEFI bios was an automatic process? Am I wrong? If so, what do I need to add here?
> 
> Feeling a bit stupid here cuz I don't see anyone else with the same problem --- this has to be simple, whatever I am missing. Any help greatly appreciated -- maybe someone has done a simple write-up. This is my first UEFI computer.
> 
> Thanks again for any help guys ---


deleate the current partitions on your drive and reformat it durring the install


----------



## apollomaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14086813*
> deleate the current partitions on your drive and reformat it durring the install


Hello Butter! --- a bit of confusion -- did you start with a clean MBR disk, or a GPT disk? (unallocated space, all of it?)

We are slowly getting somewhere now









Thanks!!!


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apollomaker;14086847*
> Hello Butter! --- a bit of confusion -- did you start with a clean MBR disk, or a GPT disk? (unallocated space, all of it?)
> 
> We are slowly getting somewhere now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!!!


yes... all of it, any drives that have programs files etc just leave unpluged, leave your main drive pluged in and unallocate it, then create new partition and install
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheTazMan;14086155*
> what voltage is your 955 running at?


here you go, I can pull up to 4.5 on this voltage, raising the fsb to 250, but prefer not to because i run my ram @ 1600


----------



## THC Butterz

dp


----------



## apollomaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14086971*
> yes... all of it, any drives that have programs files etc just leave unpluged, leave your main drive pluged in and unallocate it, then create new partition and install


OK Butter -- but you did not answer if you started with MBR disk, or GPT disk?
And I assume again that you let the system do ALL of the partitioning. Awaiting your answer on the disk type and I will give it a try.

EDIT: If you look at your system drive you created this way, in DISK MANAGEMENT, does it show as a GPT drive??? I ask because I have had so much trouble with Windows 7 wanting to set everything up as MBR (legacy).

Thanks again----


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:



Originally Posted by *apollomaker*


ok butter -- but you did not answer if you started with mbr disk, or gpt disk?
And i assume again that you let the system do all of the partitioning. Awaiting your answer on the disk type and i will give it a try.

Edit: If you look at your system drive you created this way, in disk management, does it show as a gpt drive??? I ask because i have had so much trouble with windows 7 wanting to set everything up as mbr (legacy).

Thanks again----:d


http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/wind...dware/gg463525

"Q. Can a disk be both GPT and MBR?

A. No. However, all GPT disks contain a Protective MBR.

Q. What is a Protective MBR?

A. The Protective MBR, beginning in sector 0, precedes the GPT partition table on the disk. The MBR contains one type 0xEE partition that spans the disk.

Q. Why does the GPT have a Protective MBR?

A. The Protective MBR protects GPT disks from previously released MBR disk tools such as Microsoft MS-DOS FDISK or Microsoft Windows NT Disk Administrator. These tools are not aware of GPT and do not know how to properly access a GPT disk. Legacy software that does not know about GPT interprets only the Protected MBR when it accesses a GPT disk. These tools will view a GPT disk as having a single encompassing (possibly unrecognized) partition by interpreting the Protected MBR, rather than mistaking the disk for one that is unpartitioned.

Q. Why would a GPT-partitioned disk appear to have an MBR on it?

A. If this occurred, you must have used an MBR-only-aware disk tool to access the GPT disk."


----------



## apollomaker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tweeky*


http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/wind...dware/gg463525

"Q. Can a disk be both GPT and MBR?

A. No. However, all GPT disks contain a Protective MBR.

Q. What is a Protective MBR?

A. The Protective MBR, beginning in sector 0, precedes the GPT partition table on the disk. The MBR contains one type 0xEE partition that spans the disk.

Q. Why does the GPT have a Protective MBR?

A. The Protective MBR protects GPT disks from previously released MBR disk tools such as Microsoft MS-DOS FDISK or Microsoft Windows NT Disk Administrator. These tools are not aware of GPT and do not know how to properly access a GPT disk. Legacy software that does not know about GPT interprets only the Protected MBR when it accesses a GPT disk. These tools will view a GPT disk as having a single encompassing (possibly unrecognized) partition by interpreting the Protected MBR, rather than mistaking the disk for one that is unpartitioned.

Q. Why would a GPT-partitioned disk appear to have an MBR on it?

A. If this occurred, you must have used an MBR-only-aware disk tool to access the GPT disk."


Hiya Tweeky ----- well, yes, I have read these words in several places including Microsoft's site. This is all part of the mystery here, in that a properly partitioned GPT disk (called a GPT disk because its partition table is the GPT type) will have several partitions, as a minimum on it. Some you can see, and some you cannot with the traditional built-in tools in Windows (DISK MANAGEMENT and DISKPART) --- ironically, compared to an MBR disk (like the one you attached) the disk for use with the UEFI board in that mode, (GPT disk) will have several partitions of DIFFERENT types....a main data primary partition for Windows which is a GPT partition, a FAT32 partition for system info, another small GPT partition for system data. Then comes the "invisible" MBR partition which is "wrapped around" the disk to protect it from legacy programs that would otherwise hurt the GPT/UEFI stuff. Note that this is all done by Windows 7 or at least is supposed to be.

All of this is what is NOT happening when I try to install Windows 7 which I was led to believe was done automatically by Win7 and the ASUS UEFI bios working together. It can and does happen but the question is about preparation of the setup BEFORE installation. The ASUS manual has no data or infomation about doing this. My guess is too, that there are quite a few folks running this mobo thinking they are running a UEFI booting system, and they are really running a legacy MBR booting system.

I hope to talk with ASUS techies on Tuesday. I will be posting anything I find out about what we should be doing and seeing in this process.

Cheers --- Bob


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apollomaker;14095964*
> I hope to talk with ASUS techies on Tuesday. I will be posting anything I find out about what we should be doing and seeing in this process.
> 
> Cheers --- Bob


Thanks


----------



## dixson01974

ADD ME TO THE CLUB PLEASE.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1890963


----------



## N3Xus

The title would look a lot nicer if it was: ASUS Sabertooth 990FX Owners Club

Idk it would seem to look a little more "official"... If it does get the official call.


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## Tweeky

Quote:



Originally Posted by *apollomaker*


Hiya Tweeky ----- well, yes, I have read these words in several places including Microsoft's site. This is all part of the mystery here, in that a properly partitioned GPT disk (called a GPT disk because its partition table is the GPT type) will have several partitions, as a minimum on it. Some you can see, and some you cannot with the traditional built-in tools in Windows (DISK MANAGEMENT and DISKPART) --- ironically, compared to an MBR disk (like the one you attached) the disk for use with the UEFI board in that mode, (GPT disk) will have several partitions of DIFFERENT types....a main data primary partition for Windows which is a GPT partition, a FAT32 partition for system info, another small GPT partition for system data. Then comes the "invisible" MBR partition which is "wrapped around" the disk to protect it from legacy programs that would otherwise hurt the GPT/UEFI stuff. Note that this is all done by Windows 7 or at least is supposed to be.

All of this is what is NOT happening when I try to install Windows 7 which I was led to believe was done automatically by Win7 and the ASUS UEFI bios working together. It can and does happen but the question is about preparation of the setup BEFORE installation. The ASUS manual has no data or infomation about doing this. My guess is too, that there are quite a few folks running this mobo thinking they are running a UEFI booting system, and they are really running a legacy MBR booting system.

I hope to talk with ASUS techies on Tuesday. I will be posting anything I find out about what we should be doing and seeing in this process.

Cheers --- Bob










look here
http://www.asusrog.com/forums/showth...ight=bios+0506


----------



## Bradford1040

testing


----------



## apollomaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky;14105412*
> look here
> http://www.asusrog.com/forums/showthread.php?2811-Crosshair-V-formula-Windows-7-GPT-Installation-on-a-3TB-HDD&highlight=bios+0506











Hello Tweeky ----

Well, you are a gentleman and a scholar --- IT WORKED!!!!
I followed the directions as noted, and I have my first experimental load of Win7 in UEFI mode!!!























The big breakthrough, for me, was finding out that the process of getting the board to "think UEFI" is NOT AUTOMATIC! It does require modification of the boot files as noted, and the use of an intermediate scratchpad operating system (on the USB stick) that can be tweaked to turn on UEFI mode for the install.

I will be writing up a full procedure for those that are where I was a day or so ago --









Thanks and will keep you and all posted --- yeeehaaa UEFI install and boot of Win7 on the Sabertooth 990FX! Finally.

Thanks Again --- Bob


----------



## apollomaker

From the contributions of many, finally some answers and methods to get a true UEFI install going with Windows 7 on our ASUS motherboards. It became clear that the default configuration of a Windows 7 install disk is legacy MBR regardless of the fact that boot code and other info has been present on the install DVD. This only makes sense as when Win7 hit the market, we were still in a total MBR world. Well, we know that is starting to change now with Microsoft finally yielding to the market pressure that keeps growing (thank you Apple) now for UEFI operation.

This post is to give a starting point "how-to" for UEFI. Thanks to the many who have already been through this and put information up on the web in various places. I am sure with time, this will become truly automated option as Microsoft brings out their next OS and beyond. Anyway, enough of this --- on with the setup info.

This method uses a USB stick as the boot/install source. You cannot boot and install UEFI directly from the install disk. It will only install legacy MBR. Here we go.

(1) Obtain at least a 4GB USB stick drive.

(2) Format the stick in FAT32.

(3) Copy your MS Win7 64-bit DVD to the USB stick drive. Make sure you copy the file/folder structure EXACTLY as it is on the DVD.

(4) On the USB stick, go to \\efi\\microsoft\\ folder and copy the BOOT folder.

(5) Go back to the efi folder and paste in the BOOT folder into the efi folder.

(6) The EFI folder should contain two folders -- MICROSOFT and BOOT.

(7) Using 7-Zip (or similar utility) on the USB stick, locate and go to:
\\sources\\install.wim\\1\\Windows\\Boot\\EFI and locate the file bootmgfw.efi.

(8) Drag this file to your desktop and rename it to: bootx64.efi. Now copy bootx64.efi to \\efi\\boot folder on the USB stick.

(9) You can now boot in UEFI mode from the stick and you will have this option to install Win7 in UEFI mode!

(10) Once done, verify your UEFI install with DISK MANAGEMENT and/or DISKPART utilities.

Other Notes:
---------------
In general, nothing else special is needed to do the UEFI install. Make sure your target hard drive for the install is set to GPT type. Most set ports 1-4 to AHCI mode, and ports 5-6 to IDE mode. Just connect your hard drive (the install target) and plug in the USB stick drive. During the first boot, USE THE F8 KEY TO SELECT THE USB STICK identified as UEFI in the boot device select menu as your boot source. You should be off and running.

I have not determined what the range of configurations of the hard drive partitioning is tolerated by Windows 7 at the beginning of the install. But it must be set to GPT. Windows 7 does look at the partitions and makes adjustments. I am going to do a few more test installs to see what Win7 can manage because it does want to finally end up with the UEFI partition set in a certain order. And remember you cannot see all the partitions -- some remain hidden depending on which utility you use to look at your GPT system drive. (eg DISK MANAGEMENT or DISKPART).

Anyway, there is my first step up the learning curve with UEFI. Hope this helps --- have fun -- I sure am









P.S. I recommend you save your usb stick for future installs. Also it may be possible to move the Win7 disk files to other media (once tweaked) and boot/install with that media --- many possibilities.

Cheers --- Bob


----------



## Gyro

Good stuff,thanks for sharing.

Gyro


----------



## Ghostleader

*@apollomaker*

Wow, all this made me









Doesn´t windows 7 get installed in UEFI mode when one install it from a disc on a UEFI based board?

and if not what is the pros and cons?

Care to explain in some simpler way about this, got rather curious but still confused.

I have a Asus Z68 board I just testing and my Win 7 installation was made from a disc on to a harddrive (no SSD) and the "Partition Style" is MBR (checkout the picture below), does that mean that the installation is in BIOS mode or UEFI mode?

I formated the drive before I did the installation.

Sorry for be such a noob but this is all rather new for me


----------



## Praz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apollomaker;14113073*
> From the contributions of many, finally some answers and methods to get a true UEFI install going with Windows 7 on our ASUS motherboards. It became clear that the default configuration of a Windows 7 install disk is legacy MBR regardless of the fact that boot code and other info has been present on the install DVD. This only makes sense as when Win7 hit the market, we were still in a total MBR world. Well, we know that is starting to change now with Microsoft finally yielding to the market pressure that keeps growing (thank you Apple) now for UEFI operation.
> 
> This post is to give a starting point "how-to" for UEFI. Thanks to the many who have already been through this and put information up on the web in various places. I am sure with time, this will become truly automated option as Microsoft brings out their next OS and beyond. Anyway, enough of this --- on with the setup info.
> 
> This method uses a USB stick as the boot/install source. You cannot boot and install UEFI directly from the install disk. It will only install legacy MBR. Here we go.
> 
> (1) Obtain at least a 4GB USB stick drive.
> 
> (2) Format the stick in FAT32.
> 
> (3) Copy your MS Win7 64-bit DVD to the USB stick drive. Make sure you copy the file/folder structure EXACTLY as it is on the DVD.
> 
> (4) On the USB stick, go to \efi\microsoft\ folder and copy the BOOT folder.
> 
> (5) Go back to the efi folder and paste in the BOOT folder into the efi folder.
> 
> (6) The EFI folder should contain two folders -- MICROSOFT and BOOT.
> 
> (7) Using 7-Zip (or similar utility) on the USB stick, locate and go to:
> \sources\install.wim\1\Windows\Boot\EFI and locate the file bootmgfw.efi.
> 
> (8) Drag this file to your desktop and rename it to: bootx64.efi. Now copy bootx64.efi to \efi\boot folder on the USB stick.
> 
> (9) You can now boot in UEFI mode from the stick and you will have this option to install Win7 in UEFI mode!
> 
> (10) Once done, verify your UEFI install with DISK MANAGEMENT and/or DISKPART utilities.
> 
> Other Notes:
> 
> In general, nothing else special is needed to do the UEFI install. Make sure your target hard drive for the install is set to GPT type. Most set ports 1-4 to AHCI mode, and ports 5-6 to IDE mode. Just connect your hard drive (the install target) and plug in the USB stick drive. During the first boot, USE THE F8 KEY TO SELECT THE USB STICK identified as UEFI in the boot device select menu as your boot source. You should be off and running.
> 
> I have not determined what the range of configurations of the hard drive partitioning is tolerated by Windows 7 at the beginning of the install. But it must be set to GPT. Windows 7 does look at the partitions and makes adjustments. I am going to do a few more test installs to see what Win7 can manage because it does want to finally end up with the UEFI partition set in a certain order. And remember you cannot see all the partitions -- some remain hidden depending on which utility you use to look at your GPT system drive. (eg DISK MANAGEMENT or DISKPART).
> 
> Anyway, there is my first step up the learning curve with UEFI. Hope this helps --- have fun -- I sure am
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. I recommend you save your usb stick for future installs. Also it may be possible to move the Win7 disk files to other media (once tweaked) and boot/install with that media --- many possibilities.
> 
> Cheers --- Bob


Originally posted at the link below.









http://www.asusrog.com/forums/showthread.php?2811-Crosshair-V-formula-Windows-7-GPT-Installation-on-a-3TB-HDD&p=18104&viewfull=1#post18104


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostleader;14115062*
> *@apollomaker*
> 
> Wow, all this made me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn´t windows 7 get installed in UEFI mode when one install it from a disc on a UEFI based board?
> 
> and if not what is the pros and cons?
> 
> Care to explain in some simpler way about this, got rather curious but still confused.
> 
> I have a Asus Z68 board I just testing and my Win 7 installation was made from a disc on to a harddrive (no SSD) and the "Partition Style" is MBR (checkout the picture below), does that mean that the installation is in BIOS mode or UEFI mode?
> 
> I formated the drive before I did the installation.
> 
> Sorry for be such a noob but this is all rather new for me


no, windows installs in mbr mode, I think the bennifit is being able to utalize drives larger than 2 tb correct me if im wrong


----------



## dixson01974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14120780*
> no, windows installs in mbr mode, I think the bennifit is being able to utalize drives larger than 2 tb correct me if im wrong


Yes windows install in MBR mode, but when you are in window 7 you can set it up to use drives larger then 2TB.


----------



## metarox

Here's the thread where most of this information came and there is even some steps to rebuild your windows installation disc so it boots in UEFI mode directly (second post in that thread).

http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/lofiversion/index.php/t184349.html

Also found this link that explains how to boot from the EFI command line your windows CD installation in EFI mode.

http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/dd744321%28WS.10%29.aspx

I'll be in the same boat as you guys for this once the board arrives this week so I'll let you know how either goes but I'll probably re-image my win7 disk to boot in EFI mode by default to ease the steps (will also act as my disk backup)


----------



## apollomaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Praz;14117921*
> Originally posted at the link below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.asusrog.com/forums/showthread.php?2811-Crosshair-V-formula-Windows-7-GPT-Installation-on-a-3TB-HDD&p=18104&viewfull=1#post18104


Hi Praz, and all --- yes, much of this was posted by you, and others as well with similar information. You did an excellent job of spelling out the basic needs. As I noted, all the information that I posted was previously developed and scattered around the web, which it is, and there is much more to come.

I think you would agree that UEFI is far from a complete, clean alternative to MBR setups. For instance you cannot do functional image backups in Win7 while using UEFI. What we have now is just a first step toward a full, functional replacement for MBR. A good bit-for-bit copy program is needed to use the present UEFI to provide backup security. Any ideas here as to the best choice???









Anyway, thanks for your contributions and keep at it!! Windows 7 UEFI needs all the pioneers it can get right now especially. Too bad MS did not get on board as Apple did, early on.

Cheers --- Bob


----------



## apollomaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metarox;14122843*
> Here's the thread where most of this information came and there is even some steps to rebuild your windows installation disc so it boots in UEFI mode directly (second post in that thread).
> 
> http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/lofiversion/index.php/t184349.html
> 
> Also found this link that explains how to boot from the EFI command line your windows CD installation in EFI mode.
> 
> http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/dd744321%28WS.10%29.aspx
> 
> I'll be in the same boat as you guys for this once the board arrives this week so I'll let you know how either goes but I'll probably re-image my win7 disk to boot in EFI mode by default to ease the steps (will also act as my disk backup)


Hello Metarox --- good information! I knew there were better ways to go about this --- and I am sure we will see a full automatic install capability with MS's next version of Windows. It is not news anymore that they have announced full support for UEFI so we should expect to see it in the next version with full functionality. It may be a bit "clunky" until then but that is OK. Now is a great chance to learn UEFI and its capabilities. I will surely look over what you have mentioned here and learn some new tricks!









Thanks --- Bob


----------



## Praz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apollomaker;14123540*
> I think you would agree that UEFI is far from a complete, clean alternative to MBR setups. For instance you cannot do functional image backups in Win7 while using UEFI.


Another downside, at least from my experiences, is when updating/rolling back UEFI versions for the boards Win7 authentication breaks and needs to be reauthorized through Microsoft. A real pain for me when testing different UEFI versions.


----------



## apollomaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Praz;14124311*
> Another downside, at least from my experiences, is when updating/rolling back UEFI versions for the boards Win7 authentication breaks and needs to be reauthorized through Microsoft. A real pain for me when testing different UEFI versions.


Yes, the current spec and Windows implementation of UEFI is very vulnerable to "breakage". I read about this some time back and realized that once I set up my system, I needed to leave it be until something major happened to the design from Microsoft. It will be interesting to see what MS does with the future of their implementation for Win "X" whatever the next generation ends up being









My main system remains an MBR system. I keep two systems -- one for my normal computer stuff including gaming, and then one that is a work-in-process for the next generation. That is where my Sabertooth is, and running presently in UEFI. At least this way, I can't mess things up too badly with ongoing tweak-and-test 

I do need to be able to backup my system and need to get a third-party disk bit mirroring or blind image maker to back up my UEFI system disk. Any ideas or experience with any other than Ghost?

Many Thanks ----


----------



## Gyro

I know a few people were waiting for this including me,to look at before purchase.

English manual is now out for D/L @ ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/SABERTOOTH_990FX/E6674_SABERTOOTH_990FX_V2_u.zip.

No new bios yet.

Gyro


----------



## apollomaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gyro;14145603*
> I know a few people were waiting for this including me,to look at before purchase.
> 
> English manual is now out for D/L @ ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/SABERTOOTH_990FX/E6674_SABERTOOTH_990FX_V2_u.zip.
> 
> No new bios yet.
> 
> Gyro


What is really strange, and a bit unusual for ASUS, is that the only manual on line for download when I bought my board was a German version







When I talked to ASUS about the board, they only had the German version available to them, about a week ago. Then a Japanese version pops up, but no English version. So like everyone else, I rolled the dice. The version above is the one that came with my mobo. In English. The first and present version of the bios is 0402. Was there something specific you were waiting for in a new bios?

Thanks for posting this --- Cheers --- Bob


----------



## Gyro

I was just wanting the manual to study the new bios.
So I,m not going in blind so to speak.
But I'm sure I'll have questions









Gyro


----------



## dixson01974

It is not hard to figure out the bios.


----------



## magicmike

Just ordered mine, needed a new set of RAM and caught a newegg combo deal for the board and Ripjaws X 1600 2x4gig, i'm excited.


----------



## Pcgeek21

ADD ME

Hey Yall,

Just built this machine last Friday, so I'm still working on my OC every other day or so, but here it is:

Username: Pcgeek21
Stepping: 2
Revision: DA-C2
CPU: AMD Sempron 130 2.6Ghz (Unlocked) <AMD Athlon II X2 430>
CPU Clock: 3737.7Mhz
HTT Clock: 325.0Mhz
CPU Multiplier: 11.5
CPU Voltage: 1.560V
CPU-NB VID: 1.350V
NB Clock: 2600.2Mhz
NB Voltage: 1.096V
HT Link Frequency: 1950.1Mhz
RAM Speed: 866.7 MHz (3:8) @ 9-9-9-24
Motherboard: ASUS Sabertooth 990FX
Cooler: Noctua NH-D14
CPU-Z Validation Link: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1901461

If you're wondering why I got such a cheap CPU, well, it's to hold me over till AMD releases bulldozer. I figured $30 wasn't too much of a waste to hold me over until then. And look st how far it's gone!


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *magicmike*


Just ordered mine, needed a new set of RAM and caught a newegg combo deal for the board and Ripjaws X 1600 2x4gig, i'm excited.


I just caught a deal from the egg to, 16gb vengence I was going to go with the ripjaws but missed the shell shocker


----------



## pwnography6

My sabertooth 990FX is in the mail will post pics as soon as it shows up!!!


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pwnography6*


My sabertooth 990FX is in the mail will post pics as soon as it shows up!!!


sweet


----------



## dixson01974

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pwnography6*


My sabertooth 990FX is in the mail will post pics as soon as it shows up!!!


Cool!


----------



## LightSpeedIII

If anyone cares, the voltage put through the power on switch is 5v. You could use this to set up a phase change unit that auto starts the computer after it gets cold enough.


----------



## Tweeky

New price on Saber
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131736

English manual at ASUS
http://support.asus.com/Download.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&s=24&m=SABERTOOTH%20990FX&os=30&ft=12&f_name=E6674_SABERTOOTH_990FX_V2_u.zip#E6674_SABERTOOTH_990FX_V2_u.zip


----------



## THC Butterz

old news but thanks for trying to help out


----------



## Bradford1040

I have been doing allot of reading lately about our voltages in BIOS not ASUS suite and have come up with allot of new ideas and also learned allot as well, my new settings are more stable than I had been before and even that was stable by most other than Nvidia drivers which seem to be crashing everywhere (glad they don't have driver crash insurance as I would have been dropped last month lol)

new bios settings on voltages

cpu/VDDA = 2.70
VDDR = 1,40
NB volt 1.30
NB/HT volt = 1.30
SB volt = 1.30
NB PCI voltage or NB 1.8 volt = 2.00
all others need to be adjusted to your specs as well and can give a copy of mine to whom ever wants to try and match them in my sig I had been on Auto till I learned what each one REALLY did and I think (think) I understand what each one does now and can tell you guys that the one guy on a review site had these volts much higher to reach 3.9ghz on a 1055 so I guess I am doing ok lol at 4.4 even though I have a 970be


----------



## SobePmp

Thank you so much for the info. I'm going to try those voltages right now.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SobePmp*


Thank you so much for the info. I'm going to try those voltages right now.


I will answer any questions you have as I know what it is like when that ever so dreaded BSOD comes up and ruins your good mood!!! LoL

I read about this in many threads and a few reviews of overclockers with this board, I did not see many with the X4 but as they are almost the same just applied a little lower on some volts and pushed the muti up a little

The whole NB NB NB thing was so hard to understand, because everyone seemed to have just a different opinion on it but with what I have read plus AMD articles, I think I finally understand


----------



## porcubunny

Just purchased the Sabertooth 990 and my old rig has a Athlon 64 X2. I thought I would have to wait for the new Bulldozer to come out before I can complete my new build. But I (think) just read that the old Athlon 64 X2 can be used in the Sabertooth board. Is that correct? If so, I will install the old cpu on the new board and wait patiently for the BD 8-core. At first I thought I would have to buy a cheap Phenom just to get me by, but if you guys tell me the Athlon 64 will work, I would be delighted! I get the Sabertooth on Friday (in 3 days). From Newegg with the Ripjaw bundle.


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porcubunny;14194012*
> Just purchased the Sabertooth 990 and my old rig has a Athlon 64 X2. I thought I would have to wait for the new Bulldozer to come out before I can complete my new build. But I (think) just read that the old Athlon 64 X2 can be used in the Sabertooth board. Is that correct? If so, I will install the old cpu on the new board and wait patiently for the BD 8-core. At first I thought I would have to buy a cheap Phenom just to get me by, but if you guys tell me the Athlon 64 will work, I would be delighted! I get the Sabertooth on Friday (in 3 days). From Newegg with the Ripjaw bundle.


Here is the AM3 compatible CPU list on the Asus website:

http://usa.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#CPUS


----------



## Bradford1040

OK well I just switched over to optical 5.1 on my computer and now see the problem THC Butters was/is having but just FYI to all there is a way to turn off the realtek big pop up saying that you unplugged a headphone or something and that is a little icon on the right side color yellow looks like a folder, click on it for options to turn off the pop up! It does not how ever fix the notifying task bar pop up which I am seeing while I type this (and is dam annoying) I think ASUS will fix in next bios update or hoping realtek fixes software hope one comes soon

I did find a small fix I guess I just pluged in a headphone in the back ports for speaker and still just set my optical as default


----------



## n9nu

I have seen a few comments on the subject of modifying the default voltages that are given to create a stable environment and just wanted to throw in my two cents worth here.

*Fist, the specs:*

Motherboard - Asus 990FX Sabertooth - BIOS 0402
GPU - AMD Phenom II X6 1100T O/C @ 4.1GHz
CPU - nVidia 590 GTX Reference Board
Memory - Corsair Vengeance 8GB PC3-12800 (1600) - @1600 in BIOS
Storage - OCZ Agility III x 2 via Adaptec 1430SA SATA/RAID Controller
Storage - WD Velociraptor 600GB SATA-III via RAID 1 O/B Controller
Cooling - Corsair H70 Liquid Cooler
OS - Linux 64, Windows 7 64 & FreeBSD 64
*

Second, my BIOS O/C Settings:*

Setting | Value | Actual Value as determined by BIOS

VDDR - Auto - 1.2
VDD PCIE - Auto - 1.1
SB - Auto - 1.1
NB 1.8 - Auto - 1.8
NB HT - Auto - 1.2
NB - Auto - 1.096
DRAM - 1.587 (from 1.5)
CPU VDDA - Auto - 2.493
CPU/NB Manual - Auto - 1.125
CPU Manual -1.380

CPU Power Duty - T. Probe Thermal
VRM Fixed Freq - 300
CPU Voltage Freq - Manual
CPU power Phase - Optimized
CPU/NB Current Cap - Auto
CPU Current Cap - Auto
CPU/NB Load Line Cal - Auto
CPU Load Line Cal - Auto

CPU Ratio (Mult) - 20x
Turbo Core - Off/Disabled
CPU Bus/PEG - 202
PCIE - Auto
Memory Freq - Auto
CPU/NB Freq - Auto
HT Link Speed - Auto
PCIE SS - Auto
CPU SS - Auto

When set like this, the system (BIOS) adjusted my memory to reflect a lower speed (as it should) and shows DDR3-1346MHz in the 'Main' BIOS information page.

Instead of manually adjusting all the settings (like I used to do all the time), I decided to see just how some of the more exotic settings would work by selecting 'Optimized' for the CPU Power Phase selection. I must say that it takes a lot of the guess work out the picture for those who want to really just adjust a minimal amount of settings to achieve a substantial gain by way of increasing the overall frequency of the CPU.

The above is all I did to achieve a very stable 4.04GHz 24/7 running a liquid cooler. My idle CPU temperatures range from 53-46 Celsius as reported by the BIOS sensors, however, you may notice that the temperature displayed in the Monitoring page is excessively high and when you compare it to the temperatures seen when running monitoring apps from within your OS, you will notice the temps are indeed much lower as shown via your Windows app.

With previous 890FX motherboards, my CPU temps never exceeded 42c as viewed in BIOS as well as any OS monitoring application. I wrote to Asus to find out why there is a considerable margin between the two readings, however, I have not received a response yet.

Other users on the Asus forum report the same thing. Their BIOS temps are 15+ degrees higher than what the OS supports.

I can assume this is due to the way Windows handles the 'C' state protocols.

Tnx

Tim


----------



## SobePmp

I set the LLC to extreme for CPU & CPU-NB, just experimenting. Now my PC wont start. When it gets to the Welcome screen I see a quick flash that looks like a BSOD and the PC restarts. I tried resetting the BIOS, etc.


----------



## Blackops_2

I have one of these boards on the way. Anyone know if the Zalman 9500 will fit? or do the chipset heatsinks get in the way?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*


I have one of these boards on the way. Anyone know if the Zalman 9500 will fit? or do the chipset heatsinks get in the way?


you should have more than enough room


----------



## dixson01974

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*


I have one of these boards on the way. Anyone know if the Zalman 9500 will fit? or do the chipset heatsinks get in the way?


I know that a NH-D14 and a Mugen 2 will fit on it without a problem.


----------



## Blackops_2

Good to hear. I was mad when i couldn't get it to fit on my P5E. And it actually fits, but the quick detach mount/bracket is too close to the NB heatsink and some filing would be required to get it to fit. But temps on my Q9550 are more than good enough for air anyway.


----------



## Kvjavs

Is it possible to SLI this board, x16/x16, and then put something into the bottom brown slot without it screwing something up with lane assignments?

I wanna get this board, but need at least two lanes after SLI for a sound card and a NIC (or TV Tuner).

The 990FXA-GD65 from MSI is perfect, but would rather have the Sabertooth.


----------



## dixson01974

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kvjavs*


Is it possible to SLI this board, x16/x16, and then put something into the bottom brown slot without it screwing something up with lane assignments?

I wanna get this board, but need at least two lanes after SLI for a sound card and a NIC (or TV Tuner).

The 990FXA-GD65 from MSI is perfect, but would rather have the Sabertooth.


The bottom one is a x4 lane. The first 3 x16 lane are the ones you need for x16,x16 for video cards.


----------



## SobePmp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SobePmp*


I set the LLC to extreme for CPU & CPU-NB, just experimenting. Now my PC wont start. When it gets to the Welcome screen I see a quick flash that looks like a BSOD and the PC restarts. I tried resetting the BIOS, etc.


I got my PC back up and running by doing a system restore. I still don't understand exactly what went wrong though. All I did was make changes in the LLC settings. I'm wondering why clearing the cmos didn't fix the problem. I still haven't done a fresh install of Windows since I got this MB, maybe that's part of the problem?


----------



## Kvjavs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dixson01974*


The bottom one is a x4 lane. The first 3 x16 lane are the ones you need for x16,x16 for video cards.


The ASUS website it says that the bottom one is x8. The only x4 is the black one, right above the second x16 (tan) slot.

Just wondering if a x1 device in the bottom x8 will mess it up for SLI. I know Crossfire it wouldn't be a problem, but I don't like AMD/ATI cards.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kvjavs;14224905*
> The ASUS website it says that the bottom one is x8. The only x4 is the black one, right above the second x16 (tan) slot.
> 
> Just wondering if a x1 device in the bottom x8 will mess it up for SLI. I know Crossfire it wouldn't be a problem, but I don't like AMD/ATI cards.


I don't know but with sli and a phys x card both the second card and physx card run @ 4x or 8 x cant remember but neither was running at 16x, that's OK tho because the current cards on the market cant utilize all of a 8x lane let alone a x 16, that's according to the techs at asus of course


----------



## Kvjavs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14226559*
> I don't know but with sli and a phys x card both the second card and physx card run @ 4x or 8 x cant remember but neither was running at 16x, that's OK tho because the current cards on the market cant utilize all of a 8x lane let alone a x 16, that's according to the techs at asus of course


I don't mind if the speeds are at x8/x8, I just want them to work. Another member on here tested a x8/x8 possibility with the bottom two slots but said SLI wasn't working. That way the top 3 PCI-E slots would be available, and I do plan on using at least two.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kvjavs;14228828*
> I don't mind if the speeds are at x8/x8, I just want them to work. Another member on here tested a x8/x8 possibility with the bottom two slots but said SLI wasn't working. That way the top 3 PCI-E slots would be available, and I do plan on using at least two.


for sli you must run in slot 1 and 3 with the bottom slot optional for 3 way, but you cant run sli any other way, slot 1 and 3 must be used, then you can stick whatever else you want in the bottom slot


----------



## BrK

Helowww im newwww ! join me in the club







!


----------



## BrK

somebody can help me this is my first gamer pc and i wanna do a OC to 4.ghz but i dont know how







! im 14 and my english is bad i can read bur writing and do not express myself very well







! trankss


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## Kvjavs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*


for sli you must run in slot 1 and 3 with the bottom slot optional for 3 way, but you cant run sli any other way, slot 1 and 3 must be used, then you can stick whatever else you want in the bottom slot


OK so then with something in the bottom slot, it will be running at x8/x8 though, right?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kvjavs*


OK so then with something in the bottom slot, it will be running at x8/x8 though, right?


yes,
slot 1=x16 slot 3=x8 slot 5=x8
bottom slot empty 1=x16 3=x16


----------



## raisethe3

I think OP should add these review links to the first page:

http://www.guru3d.com/article/asus-s...-990fx-review/
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2011/...rboard_review/
http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum...rd-review.html
http://www.eteknix.com/motherboards/...d-review-1175/
http://www.kitguru.net/components/mo...rboard-review/
http://www.pureoverclock.com/review.php?id=1314&page=9
http://www.gfxcasa.com/2011/06/mothe...oth-990fx.html
http://www.hexus.net/content/item.php?item=30606
http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1639/1/
http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Motherb...Asus-SABERTOOT
http://promos.asus.com/US/Sabertooth_990FX/LP/index.htm

It would greatly help/attract new users who want to take a shot at this board. I figure my mind that I could be leaning on getting this board. Hope this helps.


----------



## Kvjavs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*


yes,
slot 1=x16 slot 3=x8 slot 5=x8
bottom slot empty 1=x16 3=x16


Ah OK thanks









And SLI will work like that? I thought it HAS to have equal lane speeds for SLI, like x16/x16 or x8/x8.


----------



## magicmike

Got everything up and running, fresh reinstall of Win 7 and everything went smooth right thereafter.

UEFI Bios are awesome!

Sorry for the bad pics, didn't really take my time with my phone and the cable management is laughable.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kvjavs*


Ah OK thanks









And SLI will work like that? I thought it HAS to have equal lane speeds for SLI, like x16/x16 or x8/x8.


nope sli will work 16x 8x 8x


----------



## metarox

I'll be posting in the not so distant future a guide on how I installed Windows 7 and Linux on 2 separate SSD with a common Data HDD including things such as how I created my Windows 7 UEFI Boot Disk (including the SP1 patch) for this motherboard, etc.

It's basically a condense of all the different sources of information that I have found online and tested myself to get from nothing to everything functional.

I have the motherboard and the majority of my kit but I'm missing a couple pieces so I'll post images and get my name on the list once I'm done or very close. I'll probably buy a 50$ Athlon X2 as a stop gap to get things going until BD is out (latest rumor is October).


----------



## Blackops_2

Quick question, is there any reason mushkin blackline DDR3 2000 wouldn't be compatible with this board?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*


Quick question, is there any reason mushkin blackline DDR3 2000 wouldn't be compatible with this board?


it will work but just so you now, the AMD chips only use 1333 effectively but I have seen a performance increase with running 1600 but none over that

Plus ASUS has said it did not put 2000 on the specs because it only got there by lowering other clocks down


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


it will work but just so you now, the AMD chips only use 1333 effectively but I have seen a performance increase with running 1600 but none over that

Plus ASUS has said it did not put 2000 on the specs because it only got there by lowering other clocks down


I would've gotten blackline 1866 had they not been discontinued. I figured i would take the extra head room. I read that they'll be clocked to 1600Mhz until the board is used with bulldozer. The manual has support for DDR3 2000, though i believe it's O.C. and not mushkin. So the probability of them running at full speed is slim?


----------



## pwnography6

Look what I just got from the friendly postman!!


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pwnography6*


Look what I just got from the friendly postman!!











theyed be even more friendly if they wernt so slow


----------



## Blackops_2

Just got mine setup.. having never seen or messed with the UEFI Bios it's like a dream come true compared to the standard. Overall i'm super impressed with this board.


----------



## Keyan

add me please









running a 1100T waiting on some other components before overclocking


----------



## Blackops_2

How is the cooling on the corsair 800D? I've always wanted that case, but i've always thought it just wasn't the greatest for air and was meant for liquid. If it does good with air i might have to pick it up before schedule.


----------



## Keyan

If you're talking to me, its a Dragon Rider not a 800D. Case listed in my sig.


----------



## Blackops_2

Ah my mistake, guess I assumed it was an 800D at first glance.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2;14268968*
> Ah my mistake, guess I assumed it was an 800D at first glance.


you aren't mistaken tho, the 800D isn't the best when it comes to air, It is defiantly a water case


----------



## Bradford1040

I just wanted to share this picture lol


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;14270540*
> I just wanted to share this picture lol


i like that pic


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


I just wanted to share this picture lol


It would be funnier except laptops have track pads...


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:



Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*


It would be funnier except laptops have track pads...


yow but kittens and track pads don't rime


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tweeky*


yow but kittens and track pads don't rime


kittens and mice rime?? you should be a rap artist


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:



Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*


kittens and mice rime?? you should be a rap artist










yow but cats don't chase track pads


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tweeky*


yow but cats don't chase track pads


I digress


----------



## Bradford1040

well I guess I wont post any more pic's lol it has become a war over cats and kittens and mice oh my lol


----------



## THC Butterz

cats are stupid chew toys for my rotts


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thc butterz*


i digress


ok > i still like the pic > such brutality > and my cat digresses too


----------



## consumer

Sexy board, was thinking of buying one but pushing near the $200 it's hard to justify without bulldozer.

but hey any of you get sick of the board i'll offer you a few cheeky quid to take it off your hands.


----------



## raisethe3

I got a quick question before I make my purchase, in the pictures, it looks like there's a lot of space around the socket and the ram slots. Now suppose I install my G Skill Ripjaws and the Xigmatek DK (horizontally), will it fit? Will it cause problems? Just wondering if anyone here using G Skill Ripjaws memory.

Thanks to anyone who can reply.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3;14277925*
> I got a quick question before I make my purchase, in the pictures, it looks like there's a lot of space around the socket and the ram slots. Now suppose I install my G Skill Ripjaws and the Xigmatek DK (horizontally), will it fit? Will it cause problems? Just wondering if anyone here using G Skill Ripjaws memory.
> 
> Thanks to anyone who can reply.


bradford1040 is running ripjaws


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3;14277925*
> I got a quick question before I make my purchase, in the pictures, it looks like there's a lot of space around the socket and the ram slots. Now suppose I install my G Skill Ripjaws and the Xigmatek DK (horizontally), will it fit? Will it cause problems? Just wondering if anyone here using G Skill Ripjaws memory.
> 
> Thanks to anyone who can reply.


yup I am, I love em the work much better than the Kingston hyperx's i had


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3;14277925*
> I got a quick question before I make my purchase, in the pictures, it looks like there's a lot of space around the socket and the ram slots. Now suppose I install my G Skill Ripjaws and the Xigmatek DK (horizontally), will it fit? Will it cause problems? Just wondering if anyone here using G Skill Ripjaws memory.
> 
> Thanks to anyone who can reply.


Keep us updated on how it goes. I couldn't figure a way to get my Zalman 9500 horizontal because the brackets for it are placed around the socket vertically.


----------



## Gyro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2;14278415*
> Keep us updated on how it goes. I couldn't figure a way to get my Zalman 9500 horizontal because the brackets for it are placed around the socket vertically.


Not sure if this will help(or if I understand the problem you are having) but the Zalman 9500 can be mounted in any direction by placing the holddown clamp through the pipes http://www.zalman.com/ENG/product/Product_Setup.asp?Idx=162

Gyro


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gyro*


Not sure if this will help(or if I understand the problem you are having) but the Zalman 9500 can be mounted in any direction by placing the holddown clamp through the pipes http://www.zalman.com/ENG/product/Pr...up.asp?Idx=162

Gyro


Lol i didn't realize that. Might have reseat it although my temps right now are around 33-37C on idle


----------



## consumer

So this is my #1 board I'm thinking of buying, nice features. I like ASUS support.

Just got to ask about the ram? is it picky? Seeing as this is using the top of the line chipset do you think it will have upgrade potential after bulldozer?


----------



## Blackops_2

Guru3d's review said the board will last you a long time although i could've swore i read that the refresh of bulldozer would require a new socket, though i might be mistaken. As far as memory it doesn't seem to picky. My Mushkin Blackline DDR3 2000 registered just fine, even though it's not listed in the manual.


----------



## raisethe3

Lol, I know you love them. But I was asking for the clearance of the RAM, because I am going to put my Xiggy DK vertically and was wondering if it would intefere or not.

Thanks for any reply you can give.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;14277965*
> yup I am, I love em the work much better than the Kingston hyperx's i had


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3;14289022*
> Lol, I know you love them. But I was asking for the clearance of the RAM, because I am going to put my Xiggy DK vertically and was wondering if it would intefere or not.
> 
> Thanks for any reply you can give.


well not all ripjaws have the same heatsink, so which ones you planing on getting as if they are the blue 2000's they are very low and won't be bothersome


----------



## raisethe3

This is my kit.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231303

You have this too right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;14289050*
> well not all ripjaws have the same heatsink, so which ones you planing on getting as if they are the blue 2000's they are very low and won't be bothersome


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3;14289070*
> This is my kit.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231303
> 
> You have this too right?


Yes, they are very low and will not interfere with anything most likely they only stick up about a 1/4 inch over ram stick bare


----------



## raisethe3

OMG! *relief* Thank you so much!!!

Thanks again for taking the time to help me out. Sabertooth here I come!

Rep+ for you!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;14289098*
> Yes, they are very low and will not interfere with anything most likely they only stick up about a 1/4 inch over ram stick bare


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3;14289146*
> OMG! *relief* Thank you so much!!!
> 
> Thanks again for taking the time to help me out. Sabertooth here I come!
> 
> Rep+ for you!


no problem dude any thing else you need help with just come in here or any of the links in my sig, I try to help when I can as they only let me out of my cage once in awhile lol


----------



## Bradford1040

BTW the ram that is made now mite be a little of a let down just FYI, it still works great but not as they used to when they were first being made! I think it is because of the earth quakes over in the Asian countries, I have just heard this through the grape vine so it is not a fact just rumor! (please do not help spread it if it turns out to be wrong) but just watch out for bad ram is all and higher timings needing to be set rather than lower timings on older sticks, which seem to be the case with mine as they really only run good at the sig specs I have them at


----------



## raisethe3

Oh, I have had these a year now, so I am quite confident this isn't going to affect me. Its in my current M4A89GTD Pro board, but will switch to the 990FX soon and hopefully sell that board. Don't get me wrong, the M4A is excellent, but wanting to try Bulldozer is the main reason I am doing it.

Edit: I am thinking of getting 8GB of RAM since my other computer will be used for video rendering and encoding. You think this is pretty much the same? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231401
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;14289472*
> BTW the ram that is made now mite be a little of a let down just FYI, it still works great but not as they used to when they were first being made! I think it is because of the earth quakes over in the Asian countries, I have just heard this through the grape vine so it is not a fact just rumor! (please do not help spread it if it turns out to be wrong) but just watch out for bad ram is all and higher timings needing to be set rather than lower timings on older sticks, which seem to be the case with mine as they really only run good at the sig specs I have them at


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2;14284233*
> Guru3d's review said the board will last you a long time although i could've swore i read that the refresh of bulldozer would require a new socket, though i might be mistaken. As far as memory it doesn't seem to picky. My Mushkin Blackline DDR3 2000 registered just fine, even though it's not listed in the manual.


due to amd being as cool as they are, well probably just need a bios update, and the 890 users will probably have to upgrade


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14290603*
> due to amd being as cool as they are, well probably just need a bios update, and the 890 users will probably have to upgrade


I have no doubt, i was just saying what i thought i had read. There is usually two sides to backwards compatibility depending on the age of one product. But for the most part AMD does a hell of a job with their sockets and upgrading.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2;14291019*
> I have no doubt, i was just saying what i thought i had read. There is usually two sides to backwards compatibility depending on the age of one product. But for the most part AMD does a hell of a job with their sockets and upgrading.


yup, I totally agree


----------



## enmariack

I'd like to join the club please.









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1919989

Now to update my system in my sig...


----------



## fatalynx

hi guys may i join the club







iam owner of sabertooth for a couples of weeks... just wanna ask the most suitable setting for digi+vrm setting in oc 4ghz barrier... what is the best setting for :
cpu current capabilities (set to 100)
cpu/nb current capabillities (set to 100)
cpu voltage freq (fixed to 300)
cpu power phase control (extreme mode)

iam using custom WC for cpu and gc, got additional fan that cooling the NB and vrm mosfet... thank you


----------



## THC Butterz

enmariack your in








fatalynx I need some sort of proof of ownership, Cpuz validation or a pic


----------



## fatalynx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14314669*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> enmariack your in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fatalynx I need some sort of proof of ownership, Cpuz validation or a pic


here sir








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1920269


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## drizek

Having a boot up problem.

It shows me a boot up device led and it won't post. I reset the bios and then on the first attempt I got a CPU fail led and no post and nothing on screen, and the next attempt I got a boot device fail again and it just hangs o n the st screen. I can't tell what it is hanging on winces just showing the graphic.

Any help?


----------



## drizek

I unplugged all of my boot devices And now I just get the CPU status every time, and it doesn't even begin to post.


----------



## enmariack

Alright. I just went through hell getting this board set up, but I got it working and it is absolutely awesome. I had some of these problems too.

I'd begin with shutting off the computer, and completely disconnecting power for 10-15 seconds. Then power on. You should get an option to hit F1 to fix a failed overclock. Once into the BIOS, make sure you set LLC for CPU and NB to Extreme in order to get the appropriate amount of voltage. IIRC, neither Deneb or Thuban can do vDroop. Also, make sure your NB voltage is correct. Mine was too low by default.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drizek;14320873*
> I unplugged all of my boot devices And now I just get the CPU status every time, and it doesn't even begin to post.


----------



## drizek

I can't get into the BIOS. When it CPU errors, it doesnt even turn the display on. When it boot device errors, the "hit del to enter bios" screen shows up but it freezes and doesnt actually let me go into it.

BTW, I am running overclocked, but the settings are good. Anyway, I cleared CMOS so my OC settings should be gone anyway.

/noob question: do you just do the jumper for CMOS with the computer off and hten turn it back on again, or do you leave the jumper in the clear position while the computer is booting up?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drizek;14323056*
> I can't get into the BIOS. When it CPU errors, it doesnt even turn the display on. When it boot device errors, the "hit del to enter bios" screen shows up but it freezes and doesnt actually let me go into it.
> 
> BTW, I am running overclocked, but the settings are good. Anyway, I cleared CMOS so my OC settings should be gone anyway.
> 
> /noob question: do you just do the jumper for CMOS with the computer off and hten turn it back on again, or do you leave the jumper in the clear position while the computer is booting up?


dont turn on the pc with the clear jumper on, its powered by the system batery


----------



## drizek

Ya, I hadn't done that, and I do know that hte BIOS did reset itself since it is now showing the JMicron screen again, before it hangs.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drizek;14323849*
> Ya, I hadn't done that, and I do know that hte BIOS did reset itself since it is now showing the JMicron screen again, before it hangs.


Try to press f8 at post, see if you can select a boot device, if you can you may be able to reflash your bios from usb


----------



## Blackops_2

I've got a problem idk if it's with the board, but i just noticed that my memory is in single channel and reading in slots 1&3 which it's in the last two which are 3&4 Any ideas?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2;14324461*
> I've got a problem idk if it's with the board, but i just noticed that my memory is in single channel and reading in slots 1&3 which it's in the last two which are 3&4 Any ideas?


try slots 2 and 4, thats DC


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14324582*
> try slots 2 and 4, thats DC


I feel stupid now lol, problem fixed. I had them in 3rd and 4th slot to get them as far away from the CPU heatsink as possible.


----------



## drizek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14324447*
> Try to press f8 at post, see if you can select a boot device, if you can you may be able to reflash your bios from usb


That worked one time with all my drives not attached. It seemed to be going fine, so I reattached my drives and now it is back to the way it was.

RMA?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drizek;14325573*
> That worked one time with all my drives not attached. It seemed to be going fine, so I reattached my drives and now it is back to the way it was.
> 
> RMA?


only if you didnt buy it localy Otherwise it would be a rts, before you do so however, i would double and tripple check everything else is connected properly, video card, cpu power connector, etc... everything on both ends


----------



## drizek

I got it booting again, turns out it was freezing up due to one of my hard drives being bad (not a SMART error message, it just totally freezes).

Anyway, the Warranty for the drive expires July 26, 2011. lol. As far as hard drive failures go, this was the best one yet.

The really weird thing is that I was unable to boot up the system even with the drive hooked up as an external over USB. I'm fairly certain there is a bug in the BIOS somewhere. This is not normal behavior.


----------



## eddiechi

Just got my first SSD but unsure how to change the settings in UEFI.... Sata configuration was set to AHCI but after the Post it would blue screen me right when Windows logo appears and then reboot.... went back into bios and switched from AHCI to IDE..... but since I'm using SSD shouldn't it boot fine using AHCI settings? Intel 510 120Gb SSD.....


----------



## drizek

Must reinstall windows


----------



## metarox

Installed everything tonight (will post pictures soon). Everything booted up like a charm even though I was worried for a sec as when the board comes up it cycles through each piece (memory, CPU, etc) with the corresponding LED being red then it lights out (never had a high class MB like this before).

It booted fine and detected my 16GB of memory (capped at 1600 until BD), 128GB SSD and Media drive. Default is AHCI so it worked fine for my SSD for now.

Next steps, boot from USB (haven't found the option yet) to flash the firmware on the SSDs before installing Windows/Linux.

I can confirm that at least that the commands to re-image the Windows Install disk in EFI mode instead of BIOS work. Will let you know if Windows installs fine when I get there.


----------



## SBN1977

I'm really starting to think both Asus and AMD really don’t care about this chipset. Since I can hit 4.2ghz on my last MB in the ASRock 890FX Deluxe4 with much faster HD speeds I have to say screw this MB for now. Maybe once dozer comes out I'll come back to this MB but for now this MB is just going back into the box.


----------



## ajfrac

I saw someone mention having to do fresh install of win7 when changing mobos, thought i would add that i had the same issue before but if you do the automated 1800 number from windows, follow the instructions and it will activate no problem. just fyi for future


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metarox;14376703*
> Installed everything tonight (will post pictures soon). Everything booted up like a charm even though I was worried for a sec as when the board comes up it cycles through each piece (memory, CPU, etc) with the corresponding LED being red then it lights out (never had a high class MB like this before).
> 
> It booted fine and detected my 16GB of memory (capped at 1600 until BD), 128GB SSD and Media drive. Default is AHCI so it worked fine for my SSD for now.
> 
> Next steps, boot from USB (haven't found the option yet) to flash the firmware on the SSDs before installing Windows/Linux.
> 
> I can confirm that at least that the commands to re-image the Windows Install disk in EFI mode instead of BIOS work. Will let you know if Windows installs fine when I get there.


to boot from usb press F8 at POST


----------



## eddiechi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drizek*


Must reinstall windows



Thats what I was going to do but I discovered another way to fix my issue with new SSD...... Since when I installed Windows the bios was set on IDE in the SAT config when I added the SSD it will only work with the IDE set in Bios. To change this without re-installing windows... you can edit the value in regedit from 3 to 0 and reboot and that directs Windows to activate AHCI... which after about 6 hours of new benchmark testings does make a significant difference in my scores.

Here is the fix I found.....

To Enable AHCI In Windows

1) Run the Registry Editor (regedit.exe)
2) Navigate to Registry Key: HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\\System\\CurrentControlSet\\Ser vices\\Msahci
3) Set the "Start" value to 0 (zero)
4) Navigate to Registry Key: HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\\System\\CurrentControlSet\\Ser vices\\Pciide
5) Set the "Start" value to 0 (zero)
6) Shut down
7) Start up again, but before Windows boots go into the BIOS configuration screens and change the disk mode to "AHCI". Save the new BIOS configuration and restart so that Windows boots.
When Windows starts, it will detect the change, load the AHCI disk drivers, and do one more reboot to start up with them


----------



## pwnography6

What size fans does everyone have hooked up to there mobo fan headers? Iv got 3x 200mm fans in my case would they be ok to run off them?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;14388676*
> What size fans does everyone have hooked up to there mobo fan headers? Iv got 3x 200mm fans in my case would they be ok to run off them?


yes, I have 3 200's that run just fine, I also run 2 of my 8 120mms of my mobo also, works great


----------



## pwnography6

Awsome thanks dude iv got 5 120s running off a fan controller but the 3 bigger fans where gonna feel lonely just plugged through the psu so im glad the mobo headers is an option and now i see ur sig we are prob talking about the same 200 fans go the haf-x hey.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;14388676*
> What size fans does everyone have hooked up to there mobo fan headers? Iv got 3x 200mm fans in my case would they be ok to run off them?


Just FYI for all as per ASUS the fan headers (which I don't believe this myself but they say its true) take 20amps each not total between them now that is from ASUS tech because I wanted to run Delta's big cfm 120mm fans and no fan controller was up to the task but ASUS says that the fan headers can take them and more! call yourself and confirm as I just mite of got the dumbest tech person alive lol but he double checked ( another thing I don't believe) lol and came back on and confirmed that 20amps per header

EDIT: that would basically mean the biggest baddest 120mm Delta fan draw with high CFM's and you could run 3 or 4 of them on one header by there specs (once again don't believe it) but I would have to say that any one fan on the market can be run (designed for computers! don't start putting links up for like air conditioners and stuff lol) on any one fan header without worry of a over draw on it


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pwnography6*


What size fans does everyone have hooked up to there mobo fan headers? Iv got 3x 200mm fans in my case would they be ok to run off them?


i run 3-200mm fan and 4-120mm fans off of my crosshair v formula


----------



## metarox

Here's my half complete setup (Sata cables with right angles don't fit for my 2 SSD at the bottom of the case so I need to get straight cables for those). Once everything will be in I'll do some cable tidy-up


































Jumping from a Celeron 1GHz, 1GB Ram, 64MB Video Card to this is a shock in speed (faster than the one I have at work!)

Only missing Bulldozer which should top the WEI index for CPU which is low with the Athlon right now even though I don't see things being very slow at all.


----------



## crust_cheese

Wait, is that an Athlon X2 or an Athlon II X2?

And I'm be proud to be able to join this club soon


----------



## metarox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crust_cheese;14397654*
> Wait, is that an Athlon X2 or an Athlon II X2?


Athlon II 250 as a temp CPU to get things running as having everything except the CPU would be heart breaking as they keep reporting Bulldozer. Might wait for the 8170 model to come out before buying it or Ivy Bridge so that the prices go down.


----------



## KockBurn

Add Me Plz
Just got my Sabertooth up and running!

OCN User Name: KockBurn
CPU Type: AMD Phenom II X6 1100T
CPUZ Validation: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1931216

I had a Crosshair V but it Died within a week. This board seems a lil more stable for my setup, and doesnt have fancy buttons that my video cards cover up lol. Need a Bios update though, it'd be nice to fire up and have the same cpu freq displayed everytime. I think Im a lil disappointed in the chipset. I really did expect to see an increase in benches coming from a M4N98TD EVO, it is just a rebranded 780a which is quite old now. Benches are within 100 points give or take both Chipsets Nvidia and AMD(Nvidia NB @ 2600mhz AMD NB @ 3000mhz *Once again AMD has to be clocked a lil higher to achieve same results*). Mind you the M4N only has Sata 3GB where as the Sabertooth has Sata 6GB... Maybe its time for a visit to Newegg.ca for faster SSD's lol


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KockBurn;14407297*
> Add Me Plz
> Just got my Sabertooth up and running!
> 
> OCN User Name: KockBurn
> CPU Type: AMD Phenom II X6 1100T
> CPUZ Validation: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1931216
> 
> I had a Crosshair V but it Died within a week. This board seems a lil more stable for my setup, and doesnt have fancy buttons that my video cards cover up lol. Need a Bios update though, it'd be nice to fire up and have the same cpu freq displayed everytime. I think Im a lil disappointed in the chipset. I really did expect to see an increase in benches coming from a M4N98TD EVO, it is just a rebranded 780a which is quite old now. Benches are within 100 points give or take both Chipsets Nvidia and AMD(Nvidia NB @ 2600mhz AMD NB @ 3000mhz *Once again AMD has to be clocked a lil higher to achieve same results*). Mind you the M4N only has Sata 3GB where as the Sabertooth has Sata 6GB... Maybe its time for a visit to Newegg.ca for faster SSD's lol


I used that same board before saber and my scores went up,


----------



## tCoLL

Add me!
sorry the pic is a bit disguised behind my components, but you can tell it's deff a sabertooth 990fx!
1090T @ 4.0 Ghz


----------



## fugatron78

Heloo all, afther a few weeks im back with question could be this moduels be used in combination of Phenom II or we must wait for Bulldozer core ?

Memory modules

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820211564


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fugatron78*


Heloo all, afther a few weeks im back with question could be this moduels be used in combination of Phenom II or we must wait for Bulldozer core ?

Memory modules

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820211564


Nice find, but a bit overkill and nobody has a clue, well know when 8gb sticks are out,


----------



## blampars

Add me please. Got my sabertooth up and running after the most terrible upgrade experience ever heh.

CPUZ Validation: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1932165


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## tCoLL

I am using 4x4GB sticks at 1600. It took awhile to get them stable, but it's doable. The only reason you would need that much RAM is if you use intensive programs such as after effects or do a lot of video editing. Also, that RAM is very overpriced, I got my 16 GB kit for $120. In short, YES that RAM is compatible, the question is do you need it?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tCoLL*


I am using 4x4GB sticks at 1600. It took awhile to get them stable, but it's doable. The only reason you would need that much RAM is if you use intensive programs such as after effects or do a lot of video editing. Also, that RAM is very overpriced, I got my 16 GB kit for $120. In short, YES that RAM is compatible, the question is do you need it?


not even technicly out yet 8gb ddr3 sticks


----------



## metarox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tCoLL;14413036*
> I am using 4x4GB sticks at 1600. It took awhile to get them stable, but it's doable. The only reason you would need that much RAM is if you use intensive programs such as after effects or do a lot of video editing. Also, that RAM is very overpriced, I got my 16 GB kit for $120. In short, YES that RAM is compatible, the question is do you need it?


My 16GB of 1866 RAM got detected by the Motherboard instantly and were clocked at 1600MHz directly (Need BD to push 1866 natively). As for the need for 16GB, I map lots of things into RAM directly (RAM drive) and RAM is cheap enough now to worry about it (cost me 150$CDN for these 16GB)


----------



## Noob_with_Tools

Hi there please add me =D


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Noob_with_Tools*


Hi there please add me =D


nead a pic or validation from cpuz


----------



## Noob_with_Tools

Hi there please add me =D

validation from cpuz

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1932938

Pictures


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## Mast3rRoot

Hello!
I have a question, does the Sabertooth 990FX board have the CrossLinx 3 technology that the Crosshair IV Extreme had? Because I was looking at that today, and it sounded interesting because you could have any brand of GPU, any model, and even a nvidia and ATI card, combined together to work as one (as in like CrossfireX or SLI).

Also I looked at the Crosshair V Formula.. and I dont see the feature listed, which makes me wonder if it was only a 890 Chipset feature.

Does anyone happen to know?

Thanks! Cause this would be one cool feature!


----------



## blampars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mast3rRoot;14429716*
> Hello!
> I have a question, does the Sabertooth 990FX board have the CrossLinx 3 technology that the Crosshair IV Extreme had? Because I was looking at that today, and it sounded interesting because you could have any brand of GPU, any model, and even a nvidia and ATI card, combined together to work as one (as in like CrossfireX or SLI).
> 
> Also I looked at the Crosshair V Extreme.. and I dont see the feature listed, which makes me wonder if it was only a 890 Chipset feature.
> 
> Does anyone happen to know?
> 
> Thanks! Cause this would be one cool feature!


ooo +1, I've got a gtx 460 sleeping in it's box in the closet..


----------



## drizek

Can you install 3 GTX 460s in it and then only bridge 2 of them?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drizek;14439168*
> Can you install 3 GTX 460s in it and then only bridge 2 of them?


yes


----------



## drizek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eddiechi;14381084*
> Thats what I was going to do but I discovered another way to fix my issue with new SSD...... Since when I installed Windows the bios was set on IDE in the SAT config when I added the SSD it will only work with the IDE set in Bios. To change this without re-installing windows... you can edit the value in regedit from 3 to 0 and reboot and that directs Windows to activate AHCI... which after about 6 hours of new benchmark testings does make a significant difference in my scores.
> 
> Here is the fix I found.....
> 
> To Enable AHCI In Windows
> 
> 1) Run the Registry Editor (regedit.exe)
> 2) Navigate to Registry Key: HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\System\CurrentControlSet\Services\Msahci
> 3) Set the "Start" value to 0 (zero)
> 4) Navigate to Registry Key: HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\System\CurrentControlSet\Services\Pciide
> 5) Set the "Start" value to 0 (zero)
> 6) Shut down
> 7) Start up again, but before Windows boots go into the BIOS configuration screens and change the disk mode to "AHCI". Save the new BIOS configuration and restart so that Windows boots.
> When Windows starts, it will detect the change, load the AHCI disk drivers, and do one more reboot to start up with them


I just switched from AHCI to RAID and windows wont boot anymore. I had thought that I could RAID0 5 and 6 and leave 1-4 as AHCI, but apparently there are "chipset limitations" which force you to do RAID on the entire controller. Is it possible to fix this without reinstalling windows? I can boot it back up again (I think) if I set it to AHCI mode in the BIOS again. I can also be super blasphemous and hook up my SATA III SSD to the JMicron controller.

I'm also wondering, what happens if I need to reset the CMOS, will I lose my RAID0 configuration(and my data)?


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drizek*


I just switched from AHCI to RAID and windows wont boot anymore. I had thought that I could RAID0 5 and 6 and leave 1-4 as AHCI, but apparently there are "chipset limitations" which force you to do RAID on the entire controller. Is it possible to fix this without reinstalling windows? I can boot it back up again (I think) if I set it to AHCI mode in the BIOS again. I can also be super blasphemous and hook up my SATA III SSD to the JMicron controller.

I'm also wondering, what happens if I need to reset the CMOS, will I lose my RAID0 configuration(and my data)?


Your manual (3-18) says you can RAID 1-4, but 5-6 only offer IDE or AHCI.

Usually to RAID you must create an array of disks, and then install windows. The driver is works differently for RAID or IDE and you must have a Windows RAID driver for Windows to access a RAID array, not sure if you can create an array with existing install, but I don't believe so. Backing up the install image after being sure you have RAID drivers installed may allow you to create the array and then restore the backup onto the new RAID array.

Resetting CMOS will not clear your data, or affect a created RAID array.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drizek*


I just switched from AHCI to RAID and windows wont boot anymore. I had thought that I could RAID0 5 and 6 and leave 1-4 as AHCI, but apparently there are "chipset limitations" which force you to do RAID on the entire controller. Is it possible to fix this without reinstalling windows? I can boot it back up again (I think) if I set it to AHCI mode in the BIOS again. I can also be super blasphemous and hook up my SATA III SSD to the JMicron controller.

I'm also wondering, what happens if I need to reset the CMOS, will I lose my RAID0 configuration(and my data)?


I run raid on my pc, the only options there are when raid is enabled are raid on ports 1-4 and raid or IDE on 5-6 ACHI and raid are not supported together.
I have my ports set up with 1-4 in raid, 1-2 running 2 raptors in raid 0, my dvd drive on 3, 4 is empty then I have my SSD with my OS on 5 and my game drive on 6, 5-6 are in IDE


----------



## drizek

When I set 1-4 to RAID, it automatically set all of them to RAID. It let me set them up that way. The RAID array appears to be active, it is just that windows doesn't recognize the SSD.

Regarding the 3x GTX 460 question, can you still do 3-way SLI though with them? I know you can run two cards without a bridge and take a performance hit, can you do it with 3 cards?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drizek*


When I set 1-4 to RAID, it automatically set all of them to RAID. It let me set them up that way. The RAID array appears to be active, it is just that windows doesn't recognize the SSD.

Regarding the 3x GTX 460 question, can you still do 3-way SLI though with them? I know you can run two cards without a bridge and take a performance hit, can you do it with 3 cards?


no, 2 can run in sli and 1 for phys x will work tho


----------



## drizek

OK, so I went back to AHCI.

I can do

1-4 RAID, 5-6 IDE

or

1-6 RAID

There is no option for 1-4 RAID, 5-6 AHCI

If I just install the RAID drivers, can't I put my SSD on to one of the RAID ports? It isn't part of an array.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drizek*


OK, so I went back to AHCI.

I can do

1-4 RAID, 5-6 IDE

or

1-6 RAID

There is no option for 1-4 RAID, 5-6 AHCI

If I just install the RAID drivers, can't I put my SSD on to one of the RAID ports? It isn't part of an array.


yes you can, I've done that, If you Re install the chipset driver from the CD after configuring your Raid it will install AMD Raid Xpert, this will allow you to configure your raid from within windows, Default user/pass are admin/admin I believe


----------



## drizek

Can you please elaborate on how to do this? Keep in mind, when I set my chipset option to RAID, I can't boot into windows. My windows is expecting AHCI, I can't do IDE either.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drizek*


Can you please elaborate on how to do this? Keep in mind, when I set my chipset option to RAID, I can't boot into windows. My windows is expecting AHCI, I can't do IDE either.


when you configure your RAID, it erases your MBR so whatever you do make shure your windows drive is unpluged when configuring yoyr RAID, but if your raid is set to ports 1-2 and your windows drive is set to port 3 it should boot fine, if you accidently configured your raid with the win drive pluged in you must reinstall


----------



## drizek

So it overwrote the MBR on my SSD? I thought it would only do it on the RAID array.

Doesn't each drive have its own MBR? It's kinda confusing with SATA since we don't have Master/Slave drives anymore.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drizek;14450673*
> So it overwrote the MBR on my SSD? I thought it would only do it on the RAID array.
> 
> Doesn't each drive have its own MBR? It's kinda confusing with SATA since we don't have Master/Slave drives anymore.


when you have your drives plugged in while installing the raid any drive in the port will get the mbr erased. THC Butterz has done it more than once lol so listen to him, he is got the raid thing down pat on this board


----------



## drizek

Alright, thanks, reinstall it is. This was my first time setting up a RAID.


----------



## drizek

I can't install windows...

It says it can't find a system partition and can't create one. I tried installing to my SSD in RAID mode, in IDE mode and to the RAID array and it gives me the same error every time. What am I doing wrong? I am loading the Win7 x64 RAID drivers in the installer, it detects my drives but I can't proceed with teh installation. Is there something I am supposed to do in the BIOS or the OPTIONROM?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drizek*


I can't install windows...

It says it can't find a system partition and can't create one. I tried installing to my SSD in RAID mode, in IDE mode and to the RAID array and it gives me the same error every time. What am I doing wrong? I am loading the Win7 x64 RAID drivers in the installer, it detects my drives but I can't proceed with teh installation. Is there something I am supposed to do in the BIOS or the OPTIONROM?


hold on I will get THC butterz


----------



## drizek

lol


----------



## Bradford1040

he did not answer his phone but I sure he will be back on soon, I remember he had the same problem so he can help, it is a little tricky but worth the effort. so just give him a bit and sure he will answer you soon


----------



## THC Butterz

you may have to unplug all of your drives except your dvd drive and ssd, set the ports to achi, enter windows install and unalocate your entire ssd, then format, that should set up a system partition, then turn off your pc, plug back in all of your drives boot up, set your ports back to raid and enter install again, this time do not format, just install to your ssd


----------



## drizek

Windows won't even enter setup now, with only the SSD in and set to AHCI. GIves me an error about failed storage hardware. "WIndows has encountered a problem communicating with a device connected to your computer".

This is starting to piss me off. Is there even any performance advantage to using a fakeRAID like this instead of just doing a straight up software RAID in windows? HDTach maxed out at 140MB/s with my softRAID, which is the same speed I get on a single drive, but I've heard that it is supposed to work reasonably well.


----------



## drizek

Drives set to IDE mode won't get it to boot into windows setup either. Thanks a lot for your help BTW, I would be totally lost right now if you weren't helping me hobble along.

Should I format my drives in linux first?


----------



## THC Butterz

no, linix wont create a system partition,
on another note has anyone figgure out how to install the Asus suite if it fails to install??


----------



## drizek

I'm not getting anywhere. I can't even install windows with all the drives in AHCI mode.

Is my motherboard just broken or something? I don't understand why this is so complicated.


----------



## drizek

...


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:



Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*


no, linix wont create a system partition,
on another note has anyone figgure out how to install the Asus suite if it fails to install??


I had trouble installing Asus suite and a ASUS tech said that if any old motherboard drivers are on the system disk they will have to be completely removed. I had to do a format and reinstalled Win 7.
I heard that the latest Asus suite is able to in install over the old drivers but i have not tried it.

This is AI Suite II ver. 1.01.30


----------



## blampars

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tweeky*


I had trouble installing Asus suite and a ASUS tech said that if any old motherboard drivers are on the system disk they will have to be completely removed. I did a format and reinstalled Win 7.
I heard that the latest Asus suite is able to in install over the old drivers but i have not tried it.


I'm not able to install Asus suite either, probably because of this reason. 
Is there any way to track down old unused drivers to get rid of them? Might be able to get the suite working if I can get rid if all the drivers









Edit: think I found what I was looking for. Ill have to try when I get home.
http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows-vista/remove-old-drivers-after-upgrading-to-new-hardware/

Sent from my HTC Supersonic


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blampars*


I'm not able to install Asus suite either, probably because of this reason. 
I'm kinda afraid to format and reinstall though as my copy of windows is OEM. Shouldn't it be tied to my old mobo and ask for a new key when I reinstall?
Is there any way to track down old unused drivers to get rid of them? Might be able to get the suite working if I can get rid if all the drivers









Sent from my HTC Supersonic


The ASUS tech said that there may be 200 of them









Thanks for the driver removal info


----------



## THC Butterz

I figgured out the asus suite, I reinstalled about 20 times before I figgured it out, here goes... Clean windows install, install every driver for the mobo, then restart, makeshure every driver installed correctly, audio, usb3, video, chipset, lan, everything, restart again, install ai suite, if it fails once, it will not ever work







, so thats the only way it worked for me
I installed a dicient 80mm over my NB/Vrms today, heres pics of before and after on system temps


----------



## drizek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*


I figgured out the asus suite, I reinstalled about 20 times before I figgured it out, here goes... Clean windows install, install every driver for the mobo, then restart, makeshure every driver installed correctly, audio, usb3, video, chipset, lan, everything, restart again, install ai suite, if it fails once, it will not ever work







, so thats the only way it worked for me
I installed a dicient 80mm over my NB/Vrms today, heres pics of before and after on system temps


Ya, similar experience when I first got the board. Going to take the plunge again right now.


----------



## drizek

Damn it.

Newegg has another sale on the F3 1TB. Should I go for 3 of them or are there diminishing returns?

Hard to pass up at $50.


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drizek*


Damn it.

Newegg has another sale on the F3 1TB. Should I go for 3 of them or are there diminishing returns?

Hard to pass up at $50.


go go go
i have 3 hd in raid 0


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drizek*


Damn it.

Newegg has another sale on the F3 1TB. Should I go for 3 of them or are there diminishing returns?

Hard to pass up at $50.


you could go with them and have a 4 way raid, but If I was you I'de get that 60gb sata 3 6gb/s ssd they have on sale right now, and raid it up with your current ssd, 4tb is just overkill except for the slight speed increase, but at the same time remember more drives= more chance for failure


----------



## drizek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tweeky*


go go go
i have 3 hd in raid 0


But now I'm wondering if I should use RAID5 instead? What is the performance like on this board? I'm trying to look up reviews, but I don't want them going out of stock in the meantime









I don't see the value in RAIDing the SSDs. In particular, my C300 has really low 80MB/s write speeds, which would hobble hte vertex, and the vertex read speeds aren't as fast as the C300, so it would be the worst of both worlds, plus no TRIM. Honestly, what practical purpose is there to having faster SSDs? They're already super fast. Having two C300s to get ~120MB/s writes would be nice, but on such a small drive, 80MB/s really is enough. All my mass storage needs are going to be taken care of on the much faster F3s.

My 2x F3 1TBs have 270MB/s writes and 250MB/s reads in RAID0 (on the first 700GB partition). Can anyone give me a rough idea of what 3x would do in RAID0 and RAID5? The idea of having all my data backed up with RAID5 is really intriguing since it is much mroe efficient than trying to do full backups on my 2TB Seagate.


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drizek*


But now I'm wondering if I should use RAID5 instead? What is the performance like on this board? I'm trying to look up reviews, but I don't want them going out of stock in the meantime









I don't see the value in RAIDing the SSDs. In particular, my C300 has really low 80MB/s write speeds, which would hobble hte vertex, and the vertex read speeds aren't as fast as the C300, so it would be the worst of both worlds, plus no TRIM. Honestly, what practical purpose is there to having faster SSDs? They're already super fast. Having two C300s to get ~120MB/s writes would be nice, but on such a small drive, 80MB/s really is enough. All my mass storage needs are going to be taken care of on the much faster F3s.

My 2x F3 1TBs have 270MB/s writes and 250MB/s reads in RAID0 (on the first 700GB partition). Can anyone give me a rough idea of what 3x would do in RAID0 and RAID5? The idea of having all my data backed up with RAID5 is really intriguing since it is much mroe efficient than trying to do full backups on my 2TB Seagate.


order the drive and give it a try and let us know ?
i have run hd tune on my 3 see post #542


----------



## Awhoon

Bam I gotz mez onez


----------



## test_driver

I have 2 HDD hooked up to the jmicron controller and when the screen shows up at boot the only thing it says is "press any key to continue", I want to use the jmicron to set up the disks in a RAID 1 but how do I configure the controller if I can't get into the setup.
Maybe I am missing something but this isn't my first rodeo.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *test_driver;14468168*
> I have 2 HDD hooked up to the jmicron controller and when the screen shows up at boot the only thing it says is "press any key to continue", I want to use the jmicron to set up the disks in a RAID 1 but how do I configure the controller if I can't get into the setup.
> Maybe I am missing something but this isn't my first rodeo.


I have been playing with raid for some time now on this mobo, as far as I can tell, raid cannot be configgured on the JB micron ports, Although I havent tried setting it up from within windows using amd raid xpert


----------



## test_driver

From what I understand AMD RAID xpert is only for the SB not the jmicron, also it is a jmb362 so it should be able to do RAID.

One thing that I thought was interesting though was that the jmicron drivers for the jmb36x controllers installed perfect but when I tried to install the jmicron RAID configurator software to manage the controller from within windows it says that it can't find a jmb36x controller but it is listed in device manager?


----------



## magicmike

Anyone having any luck with core unlocking? My 555BE won't let me do anything but lock up my computer if I play with the settings for core unlocking with this board. My old board had it unlocked and running 12+ hours of Prime95 stable as a 4.0ghz x4.

I may be missing something but just wanted to check on here, i'll be upgrading to bulldozer and have an old Phenom II X4 i'm using now but it doesn't overclock like my 555 did on my old board.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magicmike;14486194*
> Anyone having any luck with core unlocking? My 555BE won't let me do anything but lock up my computer if I play with the settings for core unlocking with this board. My old board had it unlocked and running 12+ hours of Prime95 stable as a 4.0ghz x4.
> 
> I may be missing something but just wanted to check on here, i'll be upgrading to bulldozer and have an old Phenom II X4 i'm using now but it doesn't overclock like my 555 did on my old board.


I've never really messed with core unlocking, but I've noticed I've needed to use higher voltages to get some of the clocks I could pull out of my last mobo


----------



## Kahbrohn

Good morning!

ADD ME - please, thank you. _*(EDIT: DO NOT ADD ME YET. HAD TO RETURN THE MOBO DUE TO DEFECT AND AM NOW WEIGHING OPTIONS SINCE THERE ARE NO MORE 990FX BOARDS IN STORE IN PUERTO RICO. APOLOGIZE FOR ANY INCONVENIENCE...)*_










Presently using the 1090T and it is at stock while I learn about this new board.


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magicmike;14486194*
> Anyone having any luck with core unlocking? My 555BE won't let me do anything but lock up my computer if I play with the settings for core unlocking with this board. My old board had it unlocked and running 12+ hours of Prime95 stable as a 4.0ghz x4.
> 
> I may be missing something but just wanted to check on here, i'll be upgrading to bulldozer and have an old Phenom II X4 i'm using now but it doesn't overclock like my 555 did on my old board.


there is a new bios come out soon to help with unlocking


----------



## drizek

Interesting. Mine was very unstable when unlocked. I would love to get that fourth core working for hte next two months or so until BD gets here.


----------



## Delphi

Just a quick question. Building a 3d design computer with this for work, how hard is it to get 16gb of ram working with it?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Delphi;14518845*
> Just a quick question. Building a 3d design computer with this for work, how hard is it to get 16gb of ram working with it?


as simple as any other size, runs fine with 16gb and 8gb I have tried a few different brands of ram as well


----------



## blampars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Delphi;14518845*
> Just a quick question. Building a 3d design computer with this for work, how hard is it to get 16gb of ram working with it?


Running great here no probs what so ever

Sent from my HTC Supersonic


----------



## Delphi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;14518868*
> as simple as any other size, runs fine with 16gb and 8gb I have tried a few different brands of ram as well


Alright thanks. I had bad luck with a crosshair v with 16gb. It would bsod, and sometimes not even post with it. I am switching the crosshair v for the sabertooth. I know its not the ram cause all of them worked by them selves.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Delphi;14518889*
> Alright thanks. I had bad luck with a crosshair v with 16gb. It would bsod, and sometimes not even post with it. I am switching the crosshair v for the sabertooth. I know its not the ram cause all of them worked by them selves.


sounds like you were on the phone with tech support lol, did they give you the pull all ram out and anything that does not need to be in speech lol?


----------



## THC Butterz

Im running 16gb all day, even overclocked, no problems here other than an enormous pagefile, but thats easy to fix


----------



## Delphi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


sounds like you were on the phone with tech support lol, did they give you the pull all ram out and anything that does not need to be in speech lol?


Nahh didnt call them, I was just making sure it wasnt a bad stick of ram.


----------



## colk

Add me please http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1947078

Not sure why its showing my result as invalid other than the fact the board is overclocking it


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colk;14537905*
> add me please http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1947078
> 
> not sure why its showing my result as invalid other than the fact the board is overclocking it


updated

Fill out your sig BTW it helps when you are asking questions, others will see your hardware and mite of had the problem before and offer help

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1947181


----------



## magicmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky;14509631*
> there is a new bios come out soon to help with unlocking


Really? Thats awesome if true, I'm not doubting you but is there a source or an actual ETA?

Thanks


----------



## Gyro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *magicmike*


Really? Thats awesome if true, I'm not doubting you but is there a source or an actual ETA?

Thanks


See posts # 153 & #161 here http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...-Support/page7

Gyro


----------



## colk

I have added the system now. its only 2 days old


----------



## ?Dirty?

hello, just got this Mobo

Q: is my Vcore temp( thermal radar) 47c high? , btw its idling (digi + vram all on regular)

comments: i cant get my corsair h100 fan controler to work it stays @ 2k rmps

Edit: i put an old fan on top of the vrams now at idle:30c


----------



## Noob_with_Tools

hello all

I need some help, to achive a stable system rig with i want to achive 70 gflops with my processor. i have test many config, volt and meybe someone with close system harware can send me the config.
thx thx


----------



## Noob_with_Tools

I have test all with Prime 95 torture test but always fail







when i get close to 68 - 72 Gflops.


----------



## Darr3n

Sign meh up aswell!


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darr3n;14548746*
> Sign meh up aswell!


you need to have a cpu-z validation, check the op in post one


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;14548788*
> you need to have a validation, check the op in post one


I believe you say in post #1 a picture and/or CPU-Z validation....









I have a Sabertooth 990FX on the way, delivery Saturday if the tracking info is correct, so I want to make sure for mine as well.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker;14551025*
> I believe you say in post #1 a picture and/or CPU-Z validation....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a Sabertooth 990FX on the way, delivery Saturday if the tracking info is correct, so I want to make sure for mine as well.


Well I did not start the thread but am able to edit, THC Butterz is out of town and I am am just filling in. I have been here from day one and I am sure it was expected to be both, but some don't have a good cam, so I think he let some in with out pictures, but it should be a picture with your name on a piece of paper or post it (OCN name) and CPU-Z validation, now if you just want to take a shot out side of the case or in the case is up to you, but I am sure would like to see it installed plus you can show your work off lol

PS I will speak with him and make sure he gets the op straight, and if he changed his mind I will apologize guys, but I am a member of many threads and the same membership rules are in each (picture, posted name, cpu-z validation) I don't mean to give anyone a hard time just don't want to get it wrong is all lol


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;14551304*
> I don't mean to give anyone a hard time just don't want to get it wrong is all lol


Kewl Beenz. Thanks


----------



## drizek

I got in with only a picture...


----------



## ?Dirty?

sign me up?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *·Dirty·;14554789*
> 
> 
> sign me up?


OK you are in
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darr3n;14548746*
> Sign meh up aswell!


You are in as well but as you have not filled out your sig or given a CPU-Z I have no idea of your hardware mainly your cpu

Which is one of the main reasons for the CPU-Z validation guys. just getting in with a picture well pictures can be copied that is the reason for your OCN name on the post it or paper and CPU-Z should also be done with your OCN name

I just read a hole thing on how some azz hole on a foreign site stole a OCN members picture and sig and all and posted it as his own, not bad enough well it was posted in a contest which he won (prizes) with stolen pictures just a good reason to always include your name on the picture, as this jerk passed it off as his but if the picture had the members name in the shot (in the center,so no doctoring could be done) it would of been avoided


----------



## Bradford1040

Originally Posted by *USFORCES* 
_No but someone entered mine and won.

http://www.erodov.com/forums/my-rig-...rya/44235.html
http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...d-contest.html

This is what I spoke of, read the whole thing not just a few posts, I was outraged, pissed, and insulted as a American
_


----------



## Tatakai All

*EDIT: Sorry guys I clicked on the wrong email link.*


----------



## fizicks

Just got my new comp built. Installing windows as I speak. Should have went with a sabertooth over the ch5 in the first place. I wouldn't have had to wait 2 weeks for a working mobo. I'll get my cpu-z later.


----------



## JUGGERNAUTXTR

entirely new build determined to have the sabertooth for BD.... not going to install a place holder at all till i have my BD cpu to install in it... want a nice clean home for it when it comes.
sig well that will be updated when the boy is finished and case mods completed.


----------



## hazarada

considering buying this board, one big question tho - on my current board if my computer gets turned off by any other means then shutdown button in windows (so power outs, bsods, heck sometimes it restarts at post screen coz vdroop from turning computer on makes cpu temporarily unstable) it reverts to stock clocks and i have to reenable oc manually each time. It would be fine if it wasnt for the sneaky restarts every other morning where you dont realize that you're back @ stock before you're in the middle of a gaming session.. so does this board (or any other modern board these days) do the same?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hazarada;14566846*
> considering buying this board, one big question tho - on my current board if my computer gets turned off by any other means then shutdown button in windows (so power outs, bsods, heck sometimes it restarts at post screen coz vdroop from turning computer on makes cpu temporarily unstable) it reverts to stock clocks and i have to reenable oc manually each time. It would be fine if it wasnt for the sneaky restarts every other morning where you dont realize that you're back @ stock before you're in the middle of a gaming session.. so does this board (or any other modern board these days) do the same?


I do know what you are talking about but have not had that problem since lga478 days or am1 so the answer to your question is no it does not happen, but there are some boards that do it but bios update fixes


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JUGGERNAUTXTR;14564343*
> entirely new build determined to have the sabertooth for BD.... not going to install a place holder at all till i have my BD cpu to install in it... want a nice clean home for it when it comes.
> sig well that will be updated when the boy is finished and case mods completed.


well I am not like that, I would have to install it with in a week after looking at it lol, but good luck and post pictures soon dude


----------



## motokill36

Add Me Please
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1951141


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *motokill36*


Add Me Please 
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1951141


please repost CPU-Z with your screen name from OCN thanks, if you are unsure how just ask. Always here to answer questions, sometimes I am playing a game or doing work so can not get right back but will ASAP so just post your question if you have any.


----------



## fizicks

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1950120


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fizicks;14578690*
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1950120


IN and UpDated


----------



## Irishdrunk

Add Me








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1953078
This board blows away every board I've ever had. 
And it looks awesome through the case window.


----------



## enmariack

The member list says I have a Phenom II 940. I have a 1055T.... The 940 doesn't even support DDR3...

I don't want people to think it's possible to put a 940 on a 990fx board, because it's not.


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## enmariack

Thanks!


----------



## SgtHawker

I have a Sabertooth 990FX now also!


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## blampars

Anyone having issues with sound cutting in and out? I'm trying to determine if it's another issue with my board or the crappy realtek software.
It'll notify me 'you just unplugged a device from the audio jack' and then immediately afterward 'you just plugged in a device to the audio jack'

It's starting to drive me a little crazy


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blampars;14614781*
> Anyone having issues with sound cutting in and out? I'm trying to determine if it's another issue with my board or the crappy realtek software.
> It'll notify me 'you just unplugged a device from the audio jack' and then immediately afterward 'you just plugged in a device to the audio jack'
> 
> It's starting to drive me a little crazy


lol, it is realtek not the board, but there are ways to shut it off (the notify thing) in the realtek there are two settings one is a little envelope looking thing on the right top side left click on it for the options and disable notify thing then in your task bar customize the items and on the realtek just dont show anything and prob solved


----------



## blampars

ok, i wasn't for certain if it was realtek or not as this board came with a dead ethernet jack.

due to the terrible time i had with this build i opted to just jam a wireless usb reciever in it and call it good. I recall uninstalling the realtek software completely and just letting windows handle the the audio worked fine on my previous asus board. maybe i'll try that too.


----------



## solar0987

This board got massive vdroop like the gigabyte ones?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blampars;14614920*
> ok, i wasn't for certain if it was realtek or not as this board came with a dead ethernet jack.
> 
> due to the terrible time i had with this build i opted to just jam a wireless usb reciever in it and call it good. I recall uninstalling the realtek software completely and just letting windows handle the the audio worked fine on my previous asus board. maybe i'll try that too.


if I was you, if you are having that many probs then RMA it! I know that sucks but they are pretty quick and if you have the extra cash just for the time being they do what is called a Cross Ship where they send out a new board to you and you send yours backs but they use a credit card or debit card just to hold the funds till your board gets back.

I would do this or just plian RMA it, I had no probs with mine what so ever none well other than Nvidia stuff but that was not board probs that was driver probs from it being a new board. But all that crap is worked out now so if you are having even one prob (5 year) warranty dude just send it back and get a better board what else is going to go wrong next right? just bite the bullet and get it done


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blampars;14614920*
> ok, i wasn't for certain if it was realtek or not as this board came with a dead ethernet jack.
> 
> due to the terrible time i had with this build i opted to just jam a wireless usb reciever in it and call it good. I recall uninstalling the realtek software completely and just letting windows handle the the audio worked fine on my previous asus board. maybe i'll try that too.


I was having the same issue, if you plug in a audio device you will get the anoying popup there is a check box there to turn off the notify settings. I wouldnt advise uninstalling the realtec all together tho unless you have a expansion Audio card, Because when I uninstalled it I was having issues with games and certain software telling me I didnt have a full duplex soundcard


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987;14614987*
> This board got massive vdroop like the gigabyte ones?


none that I have seen


----------



## enmariack

It has exactly the vDroop you want it to have.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987;14614987*
> This board got massive vdroop like the gigabyte ones?


----------



## KockBurn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987;14614987*
> This board got massive vdroop like the gigabyte ones?


I haven't had 1 BSOD when benching at 4 gigs on this board. CPU z and Aida64 show very small droop from what I've set in bios during a Prime95 torture test. My last board would drop from 1.4 to 1.35 and eventually BSOD. My experience with this board has been good and it's rock solid. Any news on a bios update? Crosshair V got it way back. My CPU boots at diff sped every start(within 50mhz). I guess it's not even worth complaining about


----------



## blampars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;14614991*
> if I was you, if you are having that many probs then RMA it! I know that sucks but they are pretty quick and if you have the extra cash just for the time being they do what is called a Cross Ship where they send out a new board to you and you send yours backs but they use a credit card or debit card just to hold the funds till your board gets back.
> 
> I would do this or just plian RMA it, I had no probs with mine what so ever none well other than Nvidia stuff but that was not board probs that was driver probs from it being a new board. But all that crap is worked out now so if you are having even one prob (5 year) warranty dude just send it back and get a better board what else is going to go wrong next right? just bite the bullet and get it done


Yeah, I will. I purchased an additional 2 year warranty for the board from Microcenter when I picked it up from there so I just have to take it back.

What should have been a simple system upgrade resulted in me taking apart and rebuilding my system probably 5 different times over 2 different boards. An msi 990fx board and then this one.

I'm just so over tearing apart/building my pc that I'm willing to live with the issues for a bit until I'm ready to tear apart again hehe.

Sent from my HTC Supersonic


----------



## blampars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14615064*
> I was having the same issue, if you plug in a audio device you will get the anoying popup there is a check box there to turn off the notify settings. I wouldnt advise uninstalling the realtec all together tho unless you have a expansion Audio card, Because when I uninstalled it I was having issues with games and certain software telling me I didnt have a full duplex soundcard


Had to double post, no multi quote for tapatalk :/

I've already disabled the notifications but I still get little balloon notifications out of the system tray.
This wouldn't bother me so much if it wasn't for the fact that I actually lose audio for the few moments that the whole thing happens.
I may have to tear apart and swap the board sooner rather than later if I can't ficmx it heh.

Sent from my HTC Supersonic


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blampars;14626990*
> Had to double post, no multi quote for tapatalk :/
> 
> I've already disabled the notifications but I still get little balloon notifications out of the system tray.
> This wouldn't bother me so much if it wasn't for the fact that I actually lose audio for the few moments that the whole thing happens.
> I may have to tear apart and swap the board sooner rather than later if I can't ficmx it heh.
> 
> Sent from my HTC Supersonic


here you go right click on a blank area of the task bar to get started


----------



## sweffymo

I bought one of these because of the GB boards' vDroop issues and I have to say that I think it's the greatest thing since sliced bread. Especially compared to my half-dead DFI that this replaces. This thing does 2.8 ghz NB easily even with my C2 955 and old, high voltage RAM.


----------



## blampars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14629383*
> here you go right click on a blank area of the task bar to get started


Ha thanks man. Don't know why I didn't think of that beforehand.
+Rep to you when I get home from work









Sent from my HTC Supersonic


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blampars*


Ha thanks man. Don't know why I didn't think of that beforehand.
+Rep to you when I get home from work









Sent from my HTC Supersonic


LOL same thing I told you lol but I did not have time to explain the whole thing


----------



## blampars

Planned on repping you as well just didn't mention it heh.
Your suggestion may have went over my head, ill blame it on the morning hours ;-)

Sent from my HTC Supersonic


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


lol, it is realtek not the board, but there are ways to shut it off (the notify thing) in the realtek there are two settings one is a little envelope looking thing on the right top side left click on it for the options and disable notify thing then in your task bar customize the items and on the realtek just dont show anything and prob solved



this is the same thing as he said only I did not explain better and I am sorry I just did not have the time that day, could of solved this days ago I thought you tried this already

EDIT and not why I said that just felt bad


----------



## blampars

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


this is the same thing as he said only I did not explain better and I am sorry I just did not have the time that day, could of solved this days ago I thought you tried this already

EDIT and not why I said that just felt bad


Ah well I must have totally missed that part. My apologies.
I thank both of you for the suggestions though









Sent from my HTC Supersonic


----------



## pwnography6

Build is nearly done have it run but a few minor mods to go here is a pic and my cpu-id Validation.


----------



## phr34k

Hi all, i also own this board.
Cpu z and siw says southbridge SB850, is that normal? Later @ home will validate it. Thanks in advance
Edit: im running w7 ultimate 64, installed drivers from asus dvd + tried downloading them from asus and same result.
Enviado desde mi Desire HD usando Tapatalk


----------



## phr34k

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phr34k*


Hi all, i also own this board.
Cpu z and siw says southbridge SB850, is that normal? Later @ home will validate it. Thanks in advance
Edit: im running w7 ultimate 64, installed drivers from asus dvd + tried downloading them from asus and same result.
Enviado desde mi Desire HD usando Tapatalk


 here is my validation


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phr34k;14662050*
> Hi all, i also own this board.
> Cpu z and siw says southbridge SB850, is that normal? Later @ home will validate it. Thanks in advance
> Edit: im running w7 ultimate 64, installed drivers from asus dvd + tried downloading them from asus and same result.
> Enviado desde mi Desire HD usando Tapatalk


Yes, Southbridge as SB850 is normal. Welcome to the club.


----------



## phr34k

Quote:



Originally Posted by *capitaltpt*


Yes, Southbridge as SB850 is normal. Welcome to the club.










) thanks! Proud to be part of it, fantastic board!

someone here uses 2000 g.skill or other memory that isnt in the QVL? I use the sticks from my sig, the store guy ensured me that i will have no probs in future when i swap my 965 for bulldozer (they had none of the ddr3 2000 from QVL at the store)

Sent from my DHD using tapatalk


----------



## solar0987

Thinking about trading my ud5 for one of these can someone with a 1055t and a sabertooth board chime in on its vdroop overclocking perks and all that please.
This gigabyte board is starting to annoy the crap outta me


----------



## sweffymo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987;14673422*
> Thinking about trading my ud5 for one of these can someone with a 1055t and a sabertooth board chime in on its vdroop overclocking perks and all that please.
> This gigabyte board is starting to annoy the crap outta me


I only have a 955 but I have my CPU voltage set to 1.425v in BIOS and with LLC turned up the whole way I get a vCore of 1.428 at 100% load.


----------



## SwishaMane

Well, I just got this board, and its not stable at all under my old settings. My 965 can do 4ghz at 1.45vcore, on 8gb -4x2gb ddr3 1600 at 8-8-8-24-32-1T, 2.8ghz NB, 2ghz HT... I CAN NOT get stable on this board.

I started off with bumping all voltages to old settings, and reducing NB to 2400mhz just in case. Now I got vcore pushed to 1.536 just to ensure its not CPU related instability. I even tried one DIMM at a time. Even 9-9-9-24-34 (which is the stock timings) and no go.

And why when I try to install WinXP cant I get my USB keyboard to work to boot from cd... UGH

I think I need some help with my new mobo...


----------



## capitaltpt

Quick question: I'm getting a second GPU for Crossfire, but I also plan on getting a PCI-E sound card in the near future. Assuming the GPUs are both in the the light tan slots, is it better to put the sound card in the middle black slot or the bottom brown slot? Both GPUs take up two slots.


----------



## pwnography6

my board (AI suite 2) throws out all kinds of fan speed warnings when i first boot prob for the 1st 10 mins its turned on any ideas?


----------



## sweffymo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;14678146*
> Well, I just got this board, and its not stable at all under my old settings. My 965 can do 4ghz at 1.45vcore, on 8gb -4x2gb ddr3 1600 at 8-8-8-24-32-1T, 2.8ghz NB, 2ghz HT... I CAN NOT get stable on this board.
> 
> I started off with bumping all voltages to old settings, and reducing NB to 2400mhz just in case. Now I got vcore pushed to 1.536 just to ensure its not CPU related instability. I even tried one DIMM at a time. Even 9-9-9-24-34 (which is the stock timings) and no go.
> 
> And why when I try to install WinXP cant I get my USB keyboard to work to boot from cd... UGH
> 
> I think I need some help with my new mobo...


Make sure you set all of the power conditioning settings to "Extreme" or else you will get a lot of vDroop!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;14678930*
> my board (AI suite 2) throws out all kinds of fan speed warnings when i first boot prob for the 1st 10 mins its turned on any ideas?


My guess is that your CPU fan(s) are plugged into a fan controller?


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;14678146*
> And why when I try to install WinXP cant I get my USB keyboard to work to boot from cd... UGH
> 
> I think I need some help with my new mobo...


Did you hook your USB keyboard or mouse to the USB 3.0 connector? It won't function until the driver is loaded later, make sure to use a USB 2.0 connector during install and to adjust BIOS settings.


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;14678930*
> my board (AI suite 2) throws out all kinds of fan speed warnings when i first boot prob for the 1st 10 mins its turned on any ideas?


3 of your fan connectors have min. fan speed of 600 rpms see your manual


----------



## SwishaMane

I think I got her going pretty good now. I remember it took some specific DRAM drive settings to get these dimms stable. I get a CPU fan error too, wish it would ignore it, I'm on water, and dont need but one fan header...


----------



## drizek

Getting my second set of 8gigs tomorrow. Does anyone know how to test memory at 1866? I bought 1.65v ram and I'm trying to see if there is any legroom for that voltage to go down. Right now I'm running it at a rated 1600/1.5V spec, but for Bulldozer I don't want to have to bump it all the way up to 1.65(unless it overclocks past 1866).


----------



## pwnography6

Yeah im running a fan conrtoller and i know about the 600rpms . It's only my channel 3 fan which is hooked up to my haf-x stock front intake fan and i have rebooted a few times today and it only does it after a cold boot maybe 1 out of 3 times .

I think i was just being paranoid but i picked the easy fix and just put this fan on my psu.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;14678146*
> Well, I just got this board, and its not stable at all under my old settings. My 965 can do 4ghz at 1.45vcore, on 8gb -4x2gb ddr3 1600 at 8-8-8-24-32-1T, 2.8ghz NB, 2ghz HT... I CAN NOT get stable on this board.
> 
> I started off with bumping all voltages to old settings, and reducing NB to 2400mhz just in case. Now I got vcore pushed to 1.536 just to ensure its not CPU related instability. I even tried one DIMM at a time. Even 9-9-9-24-34 (which is the stock timings) and no go.
> 
> And why when I try to install WinXP cant I get my USB keyboard to work to boot from cd... UGH
> 
> I think I need some help with my new mobo...


Have you got this figured out yet?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;14683974*
> Have you got this figured out yet?


I got it better, but its not stable. IDK if its the board or what. Ran an OCCT Linpack test, froze after 28 mins. I was at 1.5vcore, 50C max 100% load. Ive yet to try and istall XP again to see if keyboard will work, and if it'lla ctually try to install w/o BSOD.

EDIT: Well, the keyboard worked for the 3rd out of 17 times to get into WinXP setup, but, like always so far, when it re-initializes keyboard / mouse after loading all the drivers and says Starting Windows, it BSOD's... plain and simple.

This board sucks, and will be going back. Nothin but probs from the second it got power. Plus, its ugly with the color scheme of my rig.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;14684551*
> I got it better, but its not stable. IDK if its the board or what. Ran an OCCT Linpack test, froze after 28 mins. I was at 1.5vcore, 50C max 100% load. Ive yet to try and istall XP again to see if keyboard will work, and if it'lla ctually try to install w/o BSOD.


I stopped using stuff like Prime95 and OCCT after even ASUS said that they were not 100% made for the AMD chip. This is not a fact just something I picked up in a review from there techs, I use AIDA64 as they do as well. But even so the true stable test for me is will it run my stuff that I do and not crash (so no benches, no testing programs, no burn ins) just good old fashion try and run my games and web browser and media player and if she stays solid and running well why should any of those things help me other than proving to someone else that it be pushed to 100% for long periods of time that no program will do anyway, I mean I can understand running one of them for 10min but hours NO, over night stupid and days well just absolutely absurd lol


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drizek;14681871*
> Getting my second set of 8gigs tomorrow. Does anyone know how to test memory at 1866? I bought 1.65v ram and I'm trying to see if there is any legroom for that voltage to go down. Right now I'm running it at a rated 1600/1.5V spec, but for Bulldozer I don't want to have to bump it all the way up to 1.65(unless it overclocks past 1866).


You can't run the memory at 1866 without a bulldozer processor. The Phenom chips top out at 1600.


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt;14685633*
> You can't run the memory at 1866 without a bulldozer processor. The Phenom chips top out at 1600.


Have to say your wrong.

I've even had them running at 2000.


----------



## THC Butterz

I agree with solar, I've had mine above 1600 and was pulling better performance out of them


----------



## drizek

So how do you OC the memory without causing instability elsewhere? I tried clocking down the CPU and setting the ram at the rated speed and I had all sorts of problems.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drizek;14686523*
> So how do you OC the memory without causing instability elsewhere? I tried clocking down the CPU and setting the ram at the rated speed and I had all sorts of problems.


try to loosen your timings a little, on amd I've noticed that higher clocks with looser timings can give a huge gain, if you have to you can set your ram from 1T to 2T and that tends to greatly improve stability


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987;14685668*
> Have to say your wrong.
> 
> I've even had them running at 2000.


Yes, you can overclock them higher than 1600, but I believe the OP was wanting to test it natively at 1866 to see if he can drop voltage. Running at 2000 is just overclocked 1600.


----------



## drizek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14686572*
> try to loosen your timings a little, on amd I've noticed that higher clocks with looser timings can give a huge gain, if you have to you can set your ram from 1T to 2T and that tends to greatly improve stability


What do you test with?

I've found that memtest in windows is the most effective tool, but I'm afraid of having data corruption.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drizek;14688544*
> What do you test with?
> 
> I've found that memtest in windows is the most effective tool, but I'm afraid of having data corruption.


memtest in windows is a little hypersensative, I personally use aida 64


----------



## drizek

CPU-z is telling me that my tRC should be set to 50, but the board won't let me run it higher than 44.


----------



## drizek

Just a tip, if you're having problems and weird behavior, reflash the BIOS.

I've never had to do this before on my other boards, but then again I never pushed them this hard. Every time I have a problem with this mobo, just flashing it over with EZFlash brings it back.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drizek*


Just a tip, if you're having problems and weird behavior, reflash the BIOS.

I've never had to do this before on my other boards, but then again I never pushed them this hard. Every time I have a problem with this mobo, just flashing it over with EZFlash brings it back.


I am about to do this. Didnt think a BIOS flash would fix instability probs,a nd trying to install XP, lol. Now, the book DOES say dotn install more then 3GB of RAM for 32bit WinXP, but serious? Would that cause it to fail at even STARTING winXP install?

I dual boot XP and Win7 caus eI have hardware that only works in 32 bit XP that I need every once in awhile, this is a MUST for me...


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


Now, the book DOES say dotn install more then 3GB of RAM for 32bit WinXP, but serious? Would that cause it to fail at even STARTING winXP install?

I dual boot XP and Win7 caus eI have hardware that only works in 32 bit XP that I need every once in awhile, this is a MUST for me...


I installed 8GB with Win XP and used [URL=] Ramdrive[/URL] software that made a 4GB Ramdrive for my Temp stuff and a paging file that was very fast. Depending on BIOS settings you can get up to 3.75GB available to Windows XP 32bit.

I think their comment was just to indicate that XP does not make use of 4GB or more so don't expect it to access it all or complain that the mobo is the reason it doesn't work (a little CYA, ya know).


----------



## Phil the Barbarian

New rig! Really mild overclock, but we'll see where that goes









Win7 Pro x64, 8Gig RAM, 1100T CPU and a GTX 560Ti card by Gigabyte (not as many tools available as ASUS)


----------



## SwishaMane

Well, after BIOS flash its still crashing in XP setup. I tried 4GB, and then single dimmf or 2GB. All BSOD. Im running pretty sweet in Win7 tho...







IDK how stable just yet, havent pushed it, but disapoint.


----------



## drizek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*


memtest in windows is a little hypersensative, I personally use aida 64


Are you sure? I want my system to be 100% stable. Are you just talking about the Aida stability test? Me test is finding errors, Aida hasn't found any yet.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;14692867*
> Well, after BIOS flash its still crashing in XP setup. I tried 4GB, and then single dimmf or 2GB. All BSOD. Im running pretty sweet in Win7 tho...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IDK how stable just yet, havent pushed it, but disapoint.


you are loading the AHCI drivers from the mobo-cd durring the xp install or installing it in IDE mode by configuring your sata ports right?? if not it will never work:thumb:


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14693910*
> you are loading the AHCI drivers from the mobo-cd durring the xp install or installing it in IDE mode by configuring your sata ports right?? if not it will never work:thumb:


DUDE! You're a mothamutha BOSS! It worked. Whats AHCI vs IDE, and why does this board default to options you don't want? Jeez, I would have NEVER figured that out. Now I just gotta get the board to use my entire 8GB RAM in Win7, for some reason it recognizes 8GB, but only 3.96gb is usable, erR? I'm gonna clear it and start from scratch in a minute.


----------



## sweffymo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;14696403*
> DUDE! You're a mothamutha BOSS! It worked. Whats AHCI vs IDE, and why does this board default to options you don't want? Jeez, I would have NEVER figured that out. Now I just gotta get the board to use my entire 8GB RAM in Win7, for some reason it recognizes 8GB, but only 3.96gb is usable, erR? I'm gonna clear it and start from scratch in a minute.


You will never see more than that 3.96GB usable unless you upgrade to a 64-bit operating system. I recommend just buying Windows 7 Professional 64-bit.


----------



## SwishaMane

Im dual booting. Win7 was saying 8GB installed, 3.96 usuble, now its back to 8GB. The funny thing is, the BIOS was only pulling up 4GB when this was happening. IDK what I did, but its all good. I think. lol


----------



## sweffymo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;14696873*
> Im dual booting. Win7 was saying 8GB installed, 3.96 usuble, now its back to 8GB. The funny thing is, the BIOS was only pulling up 4GB when this was happening. IDK what I did, but its all good. I think. lol


Mine only shows 2gb sometimes after a CMOS reset.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;14696873*
> Im dual booting. Win7 was saying 8GB installed, 3.96 usuble, now its back to 8GB. The funny thing is, the BIOS was only pulling up 4GB when this was happening. IDK what I did, but its all good. I think. lol


you know it sounds like you are running your ram ganged and not unganged and also have the memory hole remapping off which it really should be off in windows 7 64bit but enabled in windows xp so if you are doing the dual boot thing leave the memory hole remapping on

But keep in mind running dual boot like this is going to hurt a higher Overclock if that is also something you plan on doing


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;14696403*
> DUDE! You're a mothamutha BOSS! It worked. Whats AHCI vs IDE, and why does this board default to options you don't want? Jeez, I would have NEVER figured that out. Now I just gotta get the board to use my entire 8GB RAM in Win7, for some reason it recognizes 8GB, but only 3.96gb is usable, erR? I'm gonna clear it and start from scratch in a minute.


Glad I could help, Like everyone else is saying, the only way to use more than 3.96gb of ram is to run a 64bit (X64) copy of windows, Not a 32bit (X86) like your ruining now, It should be no problem to acquire a 64 bit copy of win7, but x64 windows XP was launched before anything supported it and sorta flopped, you can still find it, its just a bit more challenging so good luck


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14705074*
> Glad I could help, Like everyone else is saying, the only way to use more than 3.96gb of ram is to run a 64bit (X64) copy of windows, Not a 32bit (X86) like your ruining now, It should be no problem to acquire a 64 bit copy of win7, but x64 windows XP was launched before anything supported it and sorta flopped, you can still find it, its just a bit more challenging so good luck


I've said 3 time snow, I'm dual booting XP and Win 7. I use Win7 MOST the time, but still need XP on my machine for certain hardware. I'm getting full 8GB in 64bit Win 7, and only like 3GB in XP, because of my 570 with 1.2GB RAM. I have a copy of XP 64 bit, yeah, it flopped hard. LOL

So, I think I got this board worked out, wish it could push my RAM to 1600 like I had before this board tho, but Im stuck at 1333 for now / stability. Its all good tho, when BD drops, I'll be getting new RAM. 16GB most likely.

Thanks for the help!


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;14707742*
> I've said 3 time snow, I'm dual booting XP and Win 7. I use Win7 MOST the time, but still need XP on my machine for certain hardware. I'm getting full 8GB in 64bit Win 7, and only like 3GB in XP, because of my 570 with 1.2GB RAM. I have a copy of XP 64 bit, yeah, it flopped hard. LOL
> 
> So, I think I got this board worked out, wish it could push my RAM to 1600 like I had before this board tho, but Im stuck at 1333 for now / stability. Its all good tho, when BD drops, I'll be getting new RAM. 16GB most likely.
> 
> Thanks for the help!


I have to know sorry, what hardware are you running that is so importantly un-replaceable for win xp 32bit?


----------



## SwishaMane

I have a pretty old Roland USB midi controller (piano.) Its rare, and AWESOME, and a must have. I will not replace it.







I also have a nice Haupppaggue capture card that onyl works for 32 bit XP, but I dont need that as often as the midi controller.

EDIT: http://www.roland.com/products/en/PC-300/index.html


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;14707969*
> I have a pretty old Roland USB midi controller (piano.) Its rare, and AWESOME, and a must have. I will not replace it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also have a nice Haupppaggue capture card that onyl works for 32 bit XP, but I dont need that as often as the midi controller.
> 
> EDIT: http://www.roland.com/products/en/PC-300/index.html


got you, sorry just had to see what was so important you understand, I had one guy that was attached to sound-blaster live 5.1 card for some dumb reason he thought it sounded better than the on-board sound and was doing about the same thing at first as you but his thing was much weirder (Dual Boot, But with LINUX), I understand the Midi thing 100% as I kinda wish they never did away with the sound card com jack (think 15 pin) I had a controller I loved that only worked with that type


----------



## SwishaMane

K, heres a screen of what Im going for right now. 4ghz, 2800+nb, as close to 2000ht, and tight timings, plus decent FSB clock. Based on my timings, manually set for 7-7-7-20-1t, what should my tRC be, thats set to AUTO right now.

I THINK it should be 27, tRAS + tRP. Would that help, or should I keep it? What effects does tRC have? I've ALWAYS been confused by RAM timings, and the math behind it. lol


----------



## magicmike

Any updates on the bios update(s) for this board?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magicmike;14737651*
> Any updates on the bios update(s) for this board?


I check every day, but none so far, a bios Update is in the works as far as I know, but isnt on the top of any priority lists because It seems to have a solid first release, are you expiriencing any issues or do you just want to do a bios update??


----------



## magicmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14737724*
> I check every day, but none so far, a bios Update is in the works as far as I know, but isnt on the top of any priority lists because It seems to have a solid first release, are you expiriencing any issues or do you just want to do a bios update??


They had mentioned before that they were going to have an update to help core unlocking, I have an old Phenom II x4 chip that doesn't OC like my Phenom II 555BE but because the 555BE won't unlock with the board I haven't been using it, its a very minor issue as i'll be upgrading to bulldozer when it arrives though.


----------



## THC Butterz

my new lowest 4ghz voltage stable is 1.464 right now, going to see if I can get it lower because Im done doing suiside overclock runs


----------



## pwnography6

Ok guys need a lil help im new to ocing on amd mobos so this bio setup has me extra stumped. Iv read a little bit on this thread about how ppl are going about it but other than that im pretty clueless.

So far iv only messed around with it a little, iv ran AMD overdrive and that hit about 4.4 unstable. After resetting everything back to stock i tried ocing using the auto OC in bios and that got me to about. 3.9 .

Iv read that the asus auto oc in the bios is a good starting point but I have no idea where to go from there Im using all the parts in my sig rig and was hoping for a decent clock on a phen II 975 and water.

If anyone could help me out and take that next step it would be great thanks.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pwnography6*


Ok guys need a lil help im new to ocing on amd mobos so this bio setup has me extra stumped. Iv read a little bit on this thread about how ppl are going about it but other than that im pretty clueless.

So far iv only messed around with it a little, iv ran AMD overdrive and that hit about 4.4 unstable. After resetting everything back to stock i tried ocing using the auto OC in bios and that got me to about. 3.9 .

Iv read that the asus auto oc in the bios is a good starting point but I have no idea where to go from there Im using all the parts in my sig rig and was hoping for a decent clock on a phen II 975 and water.

If anyone could help me out and take that next step it would be great thanks.


everything you need to overclock is on the advanced bios and all in the same section as the auto oc.
well for some reason, programs never work well, bios is always better, in order to overclock, you must raise the front side bus and CPU multiplier, 
you will also have to raise the CPU voltage, at the same time when raising the fsb it will also raise your ram clocks and CPU NB, lower them for now, make sure your CPU NB is at 2000 or below and your ram is at 1333 or below, when you reach the clock you want hit F10 and restart, check for stability, if system is unstable you may need more voltage, but don't overdo it. try to stay below 1.55 on the CPU and 1.45 on the CPU NB
once that's stable, comes the fun part, overclocking your CPU NB, (this is pretty important as amd relies heavily on the CPU NB for speed and performance unless your just overclocking for the numbers 4.xx like the 4.8 I hit last week on a suicide run lol) now a decent CPU NB would be anything you can get stable above 2400mhz the higher the better, you can achieve this by raising the CPU NB and CPU NB voltage until you find a stable point.
last but not least we work on the ram, you may have 2000mhz ram, but by default it should be 1333 in the bios, you should be able to hit 1600 or higher with the ram your running, however amd doesn't use anything much more than 1666 due to CPU limitations so bump up your ram to around 16xx and check for stability again, if your 100% stable then we can work on tightening your timings. they should be set to somewhere around 9-9-9-24 2t, you may be able to get them down to around 8-8-8-20 or 7-7-7-19 but once again check for your stability along each step and your golden








good luck to you and if you need more help just let me know!


----------



## pwnography6

LOL Butterz ... how did i know you where gonna be the one to answer this . Between this thread and the HAF one your hauling all over the show . + Rep for you bud.

My night time ambients are like 13 degrees so my cpu is running CRAZY cool at the moment around 22 with folding running.So i will wait for tonight and have a go.You gotta love australia freezing winters and stupidly hot summers = only overclocking 5 months a year.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;14756063*
> LOL Butterz ... how did i know you where gonna be the one to answer this . Between this thread and the HAF one your hauling all over the show . + Rep for you bud.
> 
> My night time ambients are like 13 degrees so my cpu is running CRAZY cool at the moment around 22 with folding running.So i will wait for tonight and have a go.You gotta love australia freezing winters and stupidly hot summers = only overclocking 5 months a year.


He gets around doesn't he lol, the slut of OCN lol


----------



## pwnography6

yeah his avatar suits him running round like a lil squirrel with a rocket launcher


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;14756111*
> He gets around doesn't he lol, the slut of OCN lol


+rep for help with the voltages
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;14756063*
> LOL Butterz ... how did i know you where gonna be the one to answer this . Between this thread and the HAF one your hauling all over the show . + Rep for you bud.
> 
> My night time ambients are like 13 degrees so my cpu is running CRAZY cool at the moment around 22 with folding running.So i will wait for tonight and have a go.You gotta love australia freezing winters and stupidly hot summers = only overclocking 5 months a year.


When I'm not working, I basically live on steam, Gmail, Facebook And most importantly OCN... lol I've been working alot lately tho because I just got a new job at staples as a Tech
The Avatar suits me because My dad says I'm Squirly and I mostly play FPS like Fallout and COD


----------



## pwnography6

LOL so the other thing is im getting a lil itch to buy another set of corsair vengence ram considering i dont play games on my pc it is really hitting overkill status (as you can imagine my 2 rads and 6950 really feel the pressure of running just [email protected] and win 7.)

Just wondering besides the check out my full ram slot coolness of it whether or not it would add any real world advantage to a setup that isnt gamed on.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pwnography6*


LOL so the other thing is im getting a lil itch to buy another set of corsair vengence ram considering i dont play games on my pc it is really hitting overkill status (as you can imagine my 2 rads and 6950 really feel the pressure of running just [email protected] and win 7.)

Just wondering besides the check out my full ram slot coolness of it whether or not it would add any real world advantage to a setup that isnt gamed on.


not really, I run all 4 slots maxed out with 16gb foe braging rights and because it looks sexy, but none the less I dont see any real world advantage, win 7 on a good day only uses 3gb, If anything all it does is make it harder to get higher overclocks


----------



## pcenvy88

Quote:



Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*


not really, I run all 4 slots maxed out with 16gb foe braging rights and because it looks sexy, but none the less I dont see any real world advantage, win 7 on a good day only uses 3gb, If anything all it does is make it harder to get higher overclocks



Yeah I have a cheap board with a 1090T and was having one hell of a time getting a stable system let alone over clocking it! I ended up taking out 1 stick of ram and leaving 1x4gb stick in to see what would happen. I was getting hyper transfer sync flood errors all over the place no matter what I did. Took one stick out and I have been stable all the way up to 3.8 so far









--To OP: why are you using AOD to overclock? I used that application for about a day and after that was uninstalling it. I can run the stability test in that application for days on an unstable system. I had it running for 12 hours, turned it off and turned on prime95 and after 3 minutes crashed with that. AOD is decent for benchmarking and looking at temps I guess but I have many other apps for that. AOD is kind of useless if you ask me...


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcenvy88*


Yeah I have a cheap board with a 1090T and was having one hell of a time getting a stable system let alone over clocking it! I ended up taking out 1 stick of ram and leaving 1x4gb stick in to see what would happen. I was getting hyper transfer sync flood errors all over the place no matter what I did. Took one stick out and I have been stable all the way up to 3.8 so far









--To OP: why are you using AOD to overclock? I used that application for about a day and after that was uninstalling it. I can run the stability test in that application for days on an unstable system. I had it running for 12 hours, turned it off and turned on prime95 and after 3 minutes crashed with that. AOD is decent for benchmarking and looking at temps I guess but I have many other apps for that. AOD is kind of useless if you ask me...


prime is not made for AMD, and thus is not accurate, the only purpose of running prime on AMD is so you can RMA your CPU before the warranty expires!


----------



## pwnography6

I was more using AOD and the asus software to get a general idea of what my system could do. It gives me a starting point that isnt stock.


----------



## RJacobs28

Hi all, got my saber this morning and its blue screening on the "Starting Windows" screen. What should i do?


----------



## drizek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJacobs28;14769014*
> Hi all, got my saber this morning and its blue screening on the "Starting Windows" screen. What should i do?


Reinstall windows is the easiest solution.


----------



## THC Butterz

definite reinstall


----------



## RJacobs28

Didnt like it because of the time it took but i reinstalled and now i have no issues. Appreciate it. So now that i have a functioning Sabertooth 990fx.. ADD ME?


----------



## THC Butterz

Audiofreak95 and RJacobs28 you need verification
otherwise








By the way once a verification post has been added, save your permalink and add yourself using the link in the OP, I am working allot lately and thus dont have time to manually add everyone everyday, once you are on the list, I will fix any mistakes you have made on the spreadsheet so dont wory

By the way, can someone with this mobo beat my 4.8ghz valid in the op, running 16gb of ram @ 1600


----------



## Fenr1r

Hey guys, Newb to overclock.net and this particular forum, if this has been answered already, I apologize for wasting your time. BTW, at work, will post CPUZ validation when I get home

Just built my rig: 
Sabretooth 990FX w/AMD 1100T 6-core B.E.
2 Seagate 1TB HDDs in RAID0 running Win 7 64-bit

After installing the Jmicron controller driver included on the ASUS CD that came with the motherboard, I noticed the boot time is significantly longer (like, pushing a whole minute or more longer). It hangs at the initial Asus screen before it finally goes through the jmicron "searching for devices" screen and finds nothing, and then goes through my RAID post and then windows boots. Is there anything I can do to mitigate this? Are there newer drivers, or can I simply uninstall these? (to be clear, I setup my RAID0 before I installed these drivers)


----------



## capitaltpt

Hopefully someone can help me here:

I picked up two WD Black drives to use in RAID as a scratch drive for video editing. Windows was installed on a SSD in AHCI mode. If I switch the SATA ports to RAID in the BIOS, it will not boot into windows. (will get the startup screen then BSOD and restart). Windows will only boot in AHCI mode. How do I get my disks raided?

BTW: Does anybody know if the Secure Erase command in the RAID BIOS will properly secure erase SSDs?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt;14774360*
> Hopefully someone can help me here:
> 
> I picked up two WD Black drives to use in RAID as a scratch drive for video editing. Windows was installed on a SSD in AHCI mode. If I switch the SATA ports to RAID in the BIOS, it will not boot into windows. (will get the startup screen then BSOD and restart). Windows will only boot in AHCI mode. How do I get my disks raided?


THC Butterz can help, he has done just about every raid set up I can think of on this board lol. he should give you help soon seen he was online not to long ago if not he will be back on later so just check back

BTW ALL, When you install a new board it is possible to get Windows to start sometimes but you NEED to REINSTALL, I hated doing it myself but it is necessary 100% I was up and running for a week maybe more before it all started coming to a grinding halt!!!! I since have installed windows on its own drive with Docs, Programs, and downloads all on a different drive to make windows a snap to install. After the freash install it takes me about a half hour to get it all back 100% the way it was before now


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt;14774360*
> Hopefully someone can help me here:
> 
> I picked up two WD Black drives to use in RAID as a scratch drive for video editing. Windows was installed on a SSD in AHCI mode. If I switch the SATA ports to RAID in the BIOS, it will not boot into windows. (will get the startup screen then BSOD and restart). Windows will only boot in AHCI mode. How do I get my disks raided?
> 
> BTW: Does anybody know if the Secure Erase command in the RAID BIOS will properly secure erase SSDs?


go into your windows, controll pannell, administrative tools, computer management, and manage local disks, unallocate both your WD's and create a new striped (raid 0) or spanned (raid 1) there by right clicking on one of the drives, due to limitations of the chipset, the bios raid, will only allow your OS to be in IDE mode, this will decrease the performance of your SSD, and with raid enabled, you'll have a super long boot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fenr1r;14771306*
> Hey guys, Newb to overclock.net and this particular forum, if this has been answered already, I apologize for wasting your time. BTW, at work, will post CPUZ validation when I get home
> 
> Just built my rig:
> Sabretooth 990FX w/AMD 1100T 6-core B.E.
> 2 Seagate 1TB HDDs in RAID0 running Win 7 64-bit
> 
> After installing the Jmicron controller driver included on the ASUS CD that came with the motherboard, I noticed the boot time is significantly longer (like, pushing a whole minute or more longer). It hangs at the initial Asus screen before it finally goes through the jmicron "searching for devices" screen and finds nothing, and then goes through my RAID post and then windows boots. Is there anything I can do to mitigate this? Are there newer drivers, or can I simply uninstall these? (to be clear, I setup my RAID0 before I installed these drivers)


go to your onbord devices section in the advanced section of the bios, and turn off the second option down, this will turn off the jbmicron without turning off the sata ports


----------



## Fenr1r

As promised
ADD ME
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1978224

NOW SOMEONE PLZ HALP!


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14778166*
> go into your windows, controll pannell, administrative tools, computer management, and manage local disks, unallocate both your WD's and create a new striped (raid 0) or spanned (raid 1) there by right clicking on one of the drives, due to limitations of the chipset, the bios raid, will only allow your OS to be in IDE mode, this will decrease the performance of your SSD, and with raid enabled, you'll have a super long boot


Thanks for the reply. A couple questions though:

1) HD Tune still shows 2 separate disks and I'm unable to benchmark performance of my striped drives together. Why is this?

2) Why would selecting RAID in the BIOS make my OS be in IDE Mode if RAID is a subset of AHCI?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt;14778589*
> Thanks for the reply. A couple questions though:
> 
> 1) HD Tune still shows 2 separate disks and I'm unable to benchmark performance of my striped drives together. Why is this?
> 
> 2) Why would selecting RAID in the BIOS make my OS be in IDE Mode if RAID is a subset of AHCI?


I dont make it, I just use it, and this is what has happened to me, so IDK, as for as benching try crystal Disk Mark


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14778611*
> I dont make it, I just use it, and this is what has happened to me, so IDK, as for as benching try crystal Disk Mark


If i ever decide to add a second SSD in RAID for my OS, would that mean it would only run in IDE mode? If I reinstall windows with the BIOS in RAID, would that fix anything?


----------



## pwnography6




----------



## Fenr1r

Sorry THCbutterz, didn't see your reply there. I will look into that option, at the moment however my computer seems to either be skipping that portion now, or it's suddenly zooming through...

New Question: I have two Seagate Barracuda ST31000524AS 1TB 7200 RPM HDDs configured in a RAID 0 setup in my comp. I used Crystal Disk Mark and these were my results










Is this normal? Is there anything else I can do to get more juice out of it?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fenr1r;14778866*
> Sorry THCbutterz, didn't see your reply there. I will look into that option, at the moment however my computer seems to either be skipping that portion now, or it's suddenly zooming through...
> 
> New Question: I have two Seagate Barracuda ST31000524AS 1TB 7200 RPM HDDs configured in a RAID 0 setup in my comp. I used Crystal Disk Mark and these were my results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this normal? Is there anything else I can do to get more juice out of it?


thats far better than what my 2 first gen sata raptors do
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt;14778628*
> If i ever decide to add a second SSD in RAID for my OS, would that mean it would only run in IDE mode? If I reinstall windows with the BIOS in RAID, would that fix anything?


The Raid itself might be AHCI based...IDK, but 2 ssd's in raid, are always better than 1 in ahci


----------



## pwnography6

Ok im hitting a wall around 4.39 tried every combo of fsb and multi i can think off been keeping cpu nb under 2k and memory at around 1333. I still havent touched my volts. Every thing is stable but i raise anything any further and i get instant BSOD.

At 240 fsb and 18 multi im more stable than 230 fsb and 18.5 multi. Is this the point I should start raising volts? And if so exactly which 1s do i change I had a quick look but didnt want to chance it on messing up.

Couple more things when u guys OC do you use your regular OS or do you have a seperate partition or HDD? Also is there any other settings in bios I should have enabled or diabled?


----------



## wackyshut

Hi everyone...i'm new here...
I'm just build my new rig,and use sabertooth 990fx as my main component...
















So add me please...

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1978782


----------



## LUZR4LIFE

Can you add me to the list.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;14782781*
> Ok im hitting a wall around 4.39 tried every combo of fsb and multi i can think off been keeping cpu nb under 2k and memory at around 1333. I still havent touched my volts. Every thing is stable but i raise anything any further and i get instant BSOD.
> 
> At 240 fsb and 18 multi im more stable than 230 fsb and 18.5 multi. Is this the point I should start raising volts? And if so exactly which 1s do i change I had a quick look but didnt want to chance it on messing up.
> 
> Couple more things when u guys OC do you use your regular OS or do you have a seperate partition or HDD? Also is there any other settings in bios I should have enabled or diabled?


wow, that's just about my 24/7 I run @ 240 x 17.5 =4.20, my advice in your bios, go the last tab and save your OC each step to an oc profile, as far as turning things off, it is debatable, but spread spectrum's may improve your overclock ability if you disable them, but they may also lower stability, try it both ways find out what works for you


----------



## pwnography6

Yeah it's nifty but I think I can go higher. Gonna start messing with volts soon... being a volt noob im guesiing I switch the settings from offset to manual then bump it up 1 notch at a time?

I want that 4.8 butterz ...if your 955 out clocks my 975 il have super sadness in my heart.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pwnography6*


Yeah it's nifty but I think I can go higher. Gonna start messing with volts soon... being a volt noob im guesiing I switch the settings from offset to manual then bump it up 1 notch at a time?

I want that 4.8 butterz ...if your 955 out clocks my 975 il have super sadness in my heart.


you might not be able to, my waterblock is better than yours, and the revision of the chip I have is a well documented overclocking beast


----------



## pwnography6

Temps aren't the problem it's not even hitting 30 half the time cause it's mid winter here and freezing. As for the chip I got a 955 in my other rig not even 2 months old not sure on the revision but il go investigate.


----------



## pwnography6

my 955 is a rev RB C3 . Dunno if that good or not got my 975 to 4.5.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1980542


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;14794787*
> my 955 is a rev RB C3 . Dunno if that good or not got my 975 to 4.5.
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1980542


RBC3 is the beast... lol but 4.5 is great


----------



## audiofreak95

photo below


----------



## GrandPillager

My Photos


----------



## pwnography6

Anyone know if the crosshair V waterblock will fit on this mobo.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;14813648*
> Anyone know if the crosshair V waterblock will fit on this mobo.


no, It wont, someone is working on making a kit for this mobo, I just cant remember who right now


----------



## pwnography6

nice


----------



## Chiefpuff420

How do i sign up








got my new Sabertooth and custom phantom painted.... cmon' Bulldozer!

edit* had to do something with the crappy TUF stickers lets see a hell yeah for AMD









Final edit for Saberproof.


----------



## PiEownz

My processor is a disgrace but besides that I'm in this club







add me!

*BEFORE:*









EDIT: I have it at stock right now but i'll oc it tomorrow.


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

"Add Me" Please, This motherboard rocks









_*CPU Overclocks:*_

*AMD Phenom II X2 555 BE* (Stock: 3.2Ghz) (Overclocked: 4.1Ghz)
*AMD Phenom II X4 925 OEM* (Stock: 2.8Ghz) (Overclocked: 3.7Ghz)
*AMD Athlon II X2 250 Regor* (Stock: 3.0Ghz) (Overclocked: 3.2Ghz)

*Memory Overclocks:*

*Crucial Ballistix 2GB 1333MHz X2 modules*
Stock: 1333Mhz @ 9-9-9-24-T2
Overclocked: 1600Mhz @ 7-8-7-24-T1-1.4V

*G.Skill Sniper Series 4GB 1333Mhz X2 modules*
Stock: 1333Mhz @ 9-9-9-28-T1
Overclocked: 1866Mhz @ 8-9-8-24-T1-1.6V


----------



## StakkerNo1

"add me" please,









Just got my rig stage 1 of the build up and running heres the pic:










will eventually get a second GTX 560 and a SSD and prob after christmas treat myself to water cooler!!!!

Im new to this so might need some help with getting my profile up-to-date.

I hope all the info is ok.... any problems just holler at me










Edit: wheres my pic....... I uploaded it to my profile album and used the URL from there to add the image..... any ideas?
RE-Edit: i had http:// twice hence why iy didnt show


----------



## pwnography6

Butterz any chance you could track down who is making the water block for this board for me. I threw it through google but it just gave me a heap of reviews for the sabertooth... as if I need one of them I know it rox.

Also welcome to all the new sabertooth owners good to see this board getting bigger. Now go , go and oc like your life depends on it


----------



## SwishaMane

Mebbe Anfi-Tec from Germany?

EDIT: nvm, they have a ASUS Crosshair V mobo block set, but not sabertooth, YET.


----------



## PiEownz

Here's my oc now. Had a little trouble but this is the best i can get.

*AFTER:*









I'm still unstable. Can anyone tell me whats wrong? Is it the cpu/nb voltage or the NB voltage?


----------



## pwnography6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PiEownz;14829632*
> Here's my oc now. Had a little trouble but this is the best i can get.
> 
> *AFTER:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still unstable. Can anyone tell me whats wrong? Is it the cpu/nb voltage or the NB voltage?


If I was you I would start bumping up the volts should get you a bit more stable.


----------



## THC Butterz

I haven't had much time to update because I've been working allot lately, I will try to get this thread up to date tomorrow or Wednesday


----------



## Chiefpuff420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14837662*
> I haven't had much time to update because I've been working allot lately, I will try to get this thread up to date tomorrow or Wednesday


Cool thanks butterz good lookin out!


----------



## Takonic

looking to replace my Mushkin stillettos, and I've got clearance for taller heatsinks...any recommendation on faster ram @ 2x4GB kits?


----------



## Chiefpuff420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Takonic;14838477*
> looking to replace my Mushkin stillettos, and I've got clearance for taller heatsinks...any recommendation on faster ram @ 2x4GB kits?


Honestly i would just roll with these... just as cheap right now @ newegg as the 4GB vengeance kit.

8GB ddr3 1600mhz <<Click me $50 for 1600mhz 8gb is great deal.


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Has anybody else had trouble unlocking processors on this board? because I had a Phenom B55 @ 4.0Ghz I was running on an old M4A785TD-V Evo for like a year but then I moved it over to this board and the unlock was unstable and kept locking up windows.


----------



## StakkerNo1

Hi Fateful_Ikkou,

Before buying my chip and board I was looking at buying an X2 565 and unlocking cores as a cheaper option for a 4 core but after doing some digging, found out from a few other forums online that its a bit of a hit and miss with this board in getting the other 2 cores unlocked and running stabily.

I apologise for not qoutoing ur question as I am new to this and not sure exactly how to do this amongst other things. I thought I was pretty competent with my knowledge of PC's but this higher end overclocking business makes me fell like im still in daipers......









Needless to say could do with some pointers on what would be a good starting point for overclocking manually as Im a little bit weary or







of using overclocking profiles in bios compared to manual overclocks.... so any help would be appreciated......


----------



## Chiefpuff420

I read earlier in the thread that people had trouble installing the AI suite with thermal app and all those goodies. I also have this problem so if anyone knows the fix for installing it successfully let me know. Tried from the site and CD numerous times. got the stuff off the cd i needed like the >2TBdrive unlocker and my audio drivers, just the AI suite II won't Budge for me still weird thing going around on the Sabertooth with this from what I've read.


----------



## pwnography6

Clean install of windows is only way to get em going. sorry









As for ram pick up the vengence kit there cheap and there great I love mine.


----------



## StakkerNo1

Hi Chiefpuff,

I have the AI suite installed but there are a few odd numbers when monitoring temps and fan RPM's compared to checking them in bios. The AI suite always seem to read my temps as being a lot cooler, around 34C when idle, than when in the bios, around 48C when idle, and my CPU fan RPM never seems to go above 1000, yet in bios its around 1800-1900. I also have been having problems with AI suite saying my CPU fan RPM keeps switching off (reads as 0 rpm) but physically this is not the case as I can see the fan is still in full swing....... I have a post in AMD CPU Air cooling section detailing some wierd readings in bios and windows with regards my CPU fan RPM's.

But yes It seems AI suite is a little strange......

Also, and I hope I have done this right, but here is a CPU-Z validation link for my current rig with my CPU and Memory OC'ed

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1986383


----------



## Chiefpuff420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StakkerNo1;14839528*
> Hi Chiefpuff,
> 
> I have the AI suite installed but there are a few odd numbers when monitoring temps and fan RPM's compared to checking them in bios. The AI suite always seem to read my temps as being a lot cooler, around 34C when idle, than when in the bios, around 48C when idle, and my CPU fan RPM never seems to go above 1000, yet in bios its around 1800-1900. I also have been having problems with AI suite saying my CPU fan RPM keeps switching off (reads as 0 rpm) but physically this is not the case as I can see the fan is still in full swing....... I have a post in AMD CPU Air cooling section detailing some wierd readings in bios and windows with regards my CPU fan RPM's.
> 
> But yes It seems AI suite is a little strange......
> 
> Also, and I hope I have done this right, but here is a CPU-Z validation link for my current rig with my CPU and Memory OC'ed
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1986383


Nice rig bro, and yeah i probably will just shine it on for now about the AI Suite cause i had some issues similar to what your'e describing anyway with my old m4a88td-v. Anyways take care


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiefpuff420;14839397*
> I read earlier in the thread that people had trouble installing the AI suite with thermal app and all those goodies. I also have this problem so if anyone knows the fix for installing it successfully let me know. Tried from the site and CD numerous times. got the stuff off the cd i needed like the >2TBdrive unlocker and my audio drivers, just the AI suite II won't Budge for me still weird thing going around on the Sabertooth with this from what I've read.


Lol, Everyone forgets ASUS is a foreign company that uses quality Hardware components mixed with mediocre software with an auto translator in act to insure guys like us can catch all the vocabulary errors.

In short Asus is a good company because of their Hardware quality not their software. LOl

EDIT:
Don't get me wrong Asus Tech is cool but their software needs some work


----------



## StakkerNo1

Ok Guys,

So I have been experimenting a bit with clocking my CPU, Ram, and GFX clocks, I am now curious about what I can get away with in regards to my NB link speed and My HT link speed. As I have mentioned I am a bit of a noob still with some of the newer board settings







and was wondering if anyone could give me a refernce point to start tinkering from?

Also I have been trying to push my GFX speeds up to the magical 1Ghz speed but cant seem to get it stable







!. I have increased the voltage on my Twin Frozr to 1.05 after reading a Hexus review where they managed to get it running at 1020 with the voltage at 1.075 and they also managed to get the memory clock upto 4600, has anyone else who has this card had any luck pushing these speeds?


----------



## SwishaMane

I got the NB on my board up to 2900hmz stable, but HT should be left as close to stock as possible. I think I'm in the 1.3v NB for 2900. Im also OC'ing based on divider / FSB.

223 x 18 for 4.027ghz, 1333 divider for ddr3 1492 (746mhz) 7-7-7-20-34-1T, 2909mhz NB, 2013 HT.

100% stable!

EDIT: On my tech station, I've also got a fan dedicated to the NB / VRM section of my board keeping it cool. Its easy on a horizontal setup rig, the fan just sits on the pci-e connectors, standing still. ASUS must've used the gunk pink paste on these decent passive coolers because they still get hotter then I figured they should. ASUS like MSI just CAN'T refuse that pink gum paste they use...


----------



## StakkerNo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou;14839973*
> Lol, Everyone forgets ASUS is a foreign company that uses quality Hardware components mixed with mediocre software with an auto translator in act to insure guys like us can catch all the vocabulary errors.
> 
> In short Asus is a good company because of their Hardware quality not their software. LOl
> 
> EDIT:
> Don't get me wrong Asus Tech is cool but their software needs some work


I agree the software could be improved but the hardware is top notch, this is my 2nd Asus board and I am blown away by how good it is and I still havent fully got my head around how 2 tweak it properly yet. I almost went with the Asus GTX 560 ti Direct CU Top card as well but after reading a load of reviews decided the MSI card just edged it.

Kinda wish I had splashed the extra cash on a modular PSU though as I have a small pile of cables lying in the bottom of my case that look a little messy.....


----------



## StakkerNo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;14840652*
> I got the NB on my board up to 2900hmz stable, but HT should be left as close to stock as possible. I think I'm in the 1.3v NB for 2900. Im also OC'ing based on divider / FSB.
> 
> 223 x 18 for 4.027ghz, 1333 divider for ddr3 1492 (746mhz) 7-7-7-20-34-1T, 2909mhz NB, 2013 HT.
> 
> 100% stable!


Thanks very much mate for the input, I wasnt sure how much to try and increase the NB and exactly how this would affect overall performance and temps.

I shall have a little tinker and see how I get on!


----------



## pwnography6

I know my NB temps is what is killing my OC (Hot without oc to) at the moment wish they would hurry up with the waterblock.

Im not to sure about NB volts butterz told me I was safe o about 1.4 (Which iv had it up to a few times) havent played with hyper threading either but I think Iv had my NB at around 2600 stable.


----------



## StakkerNo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;14840750*
> I know my NB temps is what is killing my OC (Hot without oc to) at the moment wish they would hurry up with the waterblock.
> 
> Im not to sure about NB volts butterz told me I was safe o about 1.4 (Which iv had it up to a few times) havent played with hyper threading either but I think Iv had my NB at around 2600 stable.


I havent tried doing anything to it yet but again thanks for the extra input.

I just tried to add myself to the owners list but have made a ****-up of putting the link in for my validation....









Anyone know how to fix this or will I have to wait for master Butterz to sort it out?

I hate being a noob......


----------



## pwnography6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StakkerNo1;14840828*
> I havent tried doing anything to it yet but again thanks for the extra input.
> 
> I just tried to add myself to the owners list but have made a ****-up of putting the link in for my validation....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know how to fix this or will I have to wait for master Butterz to sort it out?
> 
> I hate being a noob......


I think butterz dropped in earlier and said he was gonna sort the list tomoz.


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiefpuff420;14839397*
> I read earlier in the thread that people had trouble installing the AI suite with thermal app and all those goodies. I also have this problem so if anyone knows the fix for installing it successfully let me know. Tried from the site and CD numerous times. got the stuff off the cd i needed like the >2TBdrive unlocker and my audio drivers, just the AI suite II won't Budge for me still weird thing going around on the Sabertooth with this from what I've read.


it is necessary to reinstall windows if the boot drive had windows installed on it before hand


----------



## THC Butterz

I have fixed the links in the spread sheet, will work on adding people who didnt read the OP later
thank you to all who read the OP's in this forum, you make life much easier:thumb:


----------



## caffeinescandal

Hey I was just wondering, do you guys install the AI suite with thermal app? Is it really needed? Am I missing out by not installing it?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caffeinescandal;14843914*
> Hey I was just wondering, do you guys install the AI suite with thermal app? Is it really needed? Am I missing out by not installing it?


I find it usefull, for finding dead spots for air flow, and I watch my vrm temps quite often because they get awfully hot when overclocking


----------



## pinkfloyd48

Got mine a week ago and I will give it to the middle of Sept before I just break down and get a 1090T instead of BD so I can get it up and running.


----------



## Chiefpuff420

to the guy who suggested re install windows to see if the AI suite works i could do that. But not worth it for me to much work, but good to know if i ever really wanna try it out on this board.Anyway loving the board so far hope everyone else is enjoying it as much as i am.



lol^ still forgot to fix my ram clocks oh well, get to that soon.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiefpuff420;14846655*
> to the guy who suggested re install windows to see if the AI suite works i could do that. But not worth it for me to much work, but good to know if i ever really wanna try it out on this board.Anyway loving the board so far hope everyone else is enjoying it as much as i am.
> 
> 
> 
> lol^ still forgot to fix my ram clocks oh well, get to that soon.


Also make shure every single driver for your mobo is installed before trying to install AI suite


----------



## Chiefpuff420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14850237*
> Also make shure every single driver for your mobo is installed before trying to install AI suite


Okay will take note on that one. Thanks butterz !







:gunner2:









Anywho this board still is awesome.

baked and sleeply time. cyall tomorrow sabertooth groupies.









oh and i think i screwed up i added the wrong link one of those times so one of my entries up there shouldn't be there thought id just let ya know so ya can scrap it.


----------



## jeffblute

Just picked one of these boards up off of newegg. I am very excited to get this in my rig


----------



## SwishaMane

Well, don't be TOO excited, I was and it almost ruined my entire experience. I, for some reason forgetting my past experiences with new mobos, expected this one to work PERFECT and FLAWLESSLY out the box...

Dumb me. lol


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane;14860248*
> Well, don't be TOO excited, I was and it almost ruined my entire experience. I, for some reason forgetting my past experiences with new mobos, expected this one to work PERFECT and FLAWLESSLY out the box...
> 
> Dumb me. lol


other than a core unlocking glitch, what "flaws" does this mobo have?


----------



## pwnography6

Butterz got 2 Q's for you ones a lil off topic. Just curious if you found out who is making the nb blocks for this mobo still can't find it. Also I know you have some vengence ram and ripjaws whats the height difference on these?


----------



## pcenvy88

I'm having nightmares with this board ever since I got it yesterday...

I have windows 7 x64 installed on my 1tb hard drive.(SATA)

I hook everything up like its supposed to be, turn the tower on, and I get 'New CPU Detected!

Now every time I try to POST I get the boot device LED indicator... what does that


----------



## pcenvy88

also I'm really pissed that this board has different brackets for the heat sink. totally doesn't fit with my H80....


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcenvy88;14864441*
> I'm having nightmares with this board ever since I got it yesterday...
> 
> I have windows 7 x64 installed on my 1tb hard drive.(SATA)
> 
> I hook everything up like its supposed to be, turn the tower on, and I get 'New CPU Detected!
> 
> Now every time I try to POST I get the boot device LED indicator... what does that


first off you do KNOW you will need to reinstall your OS right?

The led you see where is it and are you waiting to even see if it goes out?

and the New cpu detected did you just see that once? or is it every time you try to post?

PS EDIT what? h80 wont fit why? are you owning a sabertooth or gigabyte board


----------



## pcenvy88

H80 fits im a ******. But I asked one of the Asus techs over the phone and he said a fresh install is not necessary... I have no way of doing a fresh install anyways since I have no SATA drive atm.... Why should I have to reinstall windows? The bios should still post regardless. the thing is junk. sent for rma

it was the boot device indicator... it stayed on never turned off so I know something was wrong. Hard drives work fine on 880G


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcenvy88;14865861*
> H80 fits im a ******. But I asked one of the Asus techs over the phone and he said a fresh install is not necessary... I have no way of doing a fresh install anyways since I have no SATA drive atm.... Why should I have to reinstall windows? The bios should still post regardless. the thing is junk. sent for rma
> 
> it was the boot device indicator... it stayed on never turned off so I know something was wrong. Hard drives work fine on 880G


um I don't want to get into a debate on this but yes you do have to reinstall!!!(but you are right on the posting thing and sorry you thought I meant for it to post) I don't care what ASUS told you, just to give you another thing they said that the fan headers EACH ONE by ITSELF can handle 20amps and they also have told me other things like it sounds like a memory or heat problem (when I called about a Ethernet Prob) Plus they never really know anything unless the computer in front of them is telling them what to say, so don't place a hole lot of stock in what ASUS $7.25hr tech support has to say! Ask anyone of the experts on here or any site of your choosing and they will tell you yes reinstall is the only thing you need to do after a board change! I tried it your way many times just because I did not want to start over, as we all have cracked software or something on there we don't want to have to go through again. Trust me I understand your reluctance on that! But it 100% has to be done trust me you will maybe get it to boot but about a "month max" your system will eat itself alive lol

Now as far as the board being a piece of poo! I don't understand why you feel that way, plus why in earth did you buy it if you already had a gigabyte 990fx board? unless you had probs with that one to? or is this just a past tense thing and you already sent the sabertooth back and got the giga board? or was it a secondary system? I just don't get why you would join OCN post a few topics in the 990FX sabertooth thread, like you were trying to fix your problem, complain about the board and RMA it all before I even posted a response which was about 3 minutes after yours. Not trying to pick a fight just trying to understand why you even posted other than to down the board or something! I mean the Sabertooth 990FX owners club? that sounds like most of us in here like the board not hate it so what were you trying to prove?

EDIT: I just noticed you changed the board you had in your system I still had old page open were it said 990fx giga board so if that was a mistake on your part I am sorry if I got that wrong cause the new page now says Biostar A880G+


----------



## pwnography6

A mobo for every occasion. Im sure ppl dont research before they buy then they come running to the forums and make us all feel like DELETED.

Anyway on a lighter note I LOVE THIS BOARD!!! The only poo thing about it , is what it leaves in my pants after every oc run on it is great







: I finally got 4.6 out of it with my 975 check it out.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1989914

Will be swapping this chip out with my 955 next week and a 360 rad if i can find a decent width one. Ima try get some decent clocks on a 955 keep butterz on his toes.....


----------



## VoodooActual

I suppose my P67 Sabertooth is to be detested like scum of the earth around here?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VoodooActual;14866546*
> I suppose my P67 Sabertooth is to be detested like scum of the earth around here?


No I am not a AMD fanboy or Intel just a Gamer that loves PC's ether way they are built
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;14866514*
> A mobo for every occasion. Im sure ppl dont research before they buy then they come running to the forums and make us all feel like DELETED.
> 
> Anyway on a lighter note I LOVE THIS BOARD!!! The only poo thing about it , is what it leaves in my pants after every oc run on it is great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> : I finally got 4.6 out of it with my 975 check it out.
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1989914
> 
> Will be swapping this chip out with my 955 next week and a 360 rad if i can find a decent width one. Ima try get some decent clocks on a 955 keep butterz on his toes.....


AND give THC Butterz Hell lol


----------



## pwnography6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VoodooActual;14866546*
> I suppose my P67 Sabertooth is to be detested like scum of the earth around here?


Na your like a long lost cousin


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;14866626*
> Na your like a long lost cousin


dam dude love your avatar number one and what the hell are you doing up at like what 3 am there lol of the 9th lol where it is the 8th here at 1.pm


----------



## pwnography6

As for butterz you gotta watch that sly lil squirrel hes got one of the best water 955 oc's iv seen around the place he would be like 2nd or 3rd in the 955 list on the 4ghz oc thread if he submitted that 4.8 he got.


----------



## pwnography6

il tell you what im doing up at 3am, 9 degree ambients.......

W8 is only 1am but still way to tired.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;14866656*
> As for butterz you gotta watch that sly lil squirrel hes got one of the best water 955 oc's iv seen around the place he would be like 2nd or 3rd in the 955 list on the 4ghz oc thread if he submitted that 4.8 he got.


well I am not into maxing out mine at the moment and have hit about the same as him, in fact I think I did a suicide run of 4.96ghz but that was on my 970be not 955be


----------



## pwnography6

Yeah i cant go no higher without a mobo block and then maybe some dice action and 4.96 is pretty good for a suicide run wish i could get up that high. anyways im out try to sneek to bed without waking up the hole house .


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;14866740*
> Yeah i cant go no higher without a mobo block and then maybe some dice action and 4.96 is pretty good for a suicide run wish i could get up that high. anyways im out try to sneek to bed without waking up the hole house .


well Butterz 4.8 was not a stable run or anything as far as i know! I think his was just a validation/suicide run(pretty sure)

Him and I have about the same system if you look


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;14866626*
> Na your like a long lost cousin


A long lost cousin that's not able to get its hands on Bulldozer:heyyou:


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14867060*
> A long lost cousin that's not able to get its hands on Bulldozer:heyyou:


The way AMD is going, we're not gonna be able to get our hands on bulldozer either...


----------



## Bradford1040

sorry this line just made me laugh and had to share it.....

"It is true that marketing folks have told us that multiple +12V rails provides "cleaner and more stable voltages", but this is usually a falsehood. Quite frankly, they use this explaination because "offers stability and cleaner power" sounds much more palletable than "won't necessarily catch fire"


----------



## pwnography6

.......and now it all starts to happen and fall into place 10 mins after i talked to bradford last nite 975 @ 4.89.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1990477


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pwnography6*


.......and now it all starts to happen and fall into place 10 mins after i talked to bradford last nite 975 @ 4.89.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1990477



see I am good luck, as I was talking to butterz on the phone as he did his as well lol


----------



## pwnography6

lol. yeah it was nice to see some nice numbers after hitting a wall for a week.

o0 and my cpu-z, Hwbot submission is a front pager yay #17 top on water. I think i could be reading it wrong.Think iv only made top 20 ounce ima go look.
http://hwbot.org/hardware/processor/..._ii_x4_975_be/


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;14871816*
> .......and now it all starts to happen and fall into place 10 mins after i talked to bradford last nite 975 @ 4.89.
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1990477


oooo... Competition... I didnt try last time, But I couldnt go farther without thinking, Looks like I hit the drawing board tomarrow, till I Hit 5.0


----------



## pwnography6

What can I say butterz you inspire me to just keep pushing it.


----------



## THC Butterz

I spent the last 2 hours trying everything... no luck...you win...for now:devil:


----------



## pwnography6

Na w8 till next week wen we got the same chip then it will be fair and besides you pretty much taught me to oc on this thing. On another note what rads you using there butterz think ima ditch this top 240 for a 360 .


----------



## THC Butterz

Im running the Hardware Labs Stealth 360 GT


----------



## Chiefpuff420

hey butterz, im getting the SABERTOOTH screen twice at startup as well, this was happening with my old m4a88td-vevo3 as well doesnt hold boot times back to much. Still getting my AHCI 365read times and all but was wondering if it's cause i never did that fresh install of windows on this board(getting the double sabertooth screen). If it is cause of that, thats okay i will probably live with it before reinstalling for awhile as everything is super stable. and i can get another prog. to easily control my pwm fans. thanks when you get chance butterz.


----------



## pwnography6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiefpuff420;14883758*
> hey butterz, im getting the SABERTOOTH screen twice at startup as well, this was happening with my old m4a88td-vevo3 as well doesnt hold boot times back to much. Still getting my AHCI 365read times and all but was wondering if it's cause i never did that fresh install of windows on this board(getting the double sabertooth screen). If it is cause of that, thats okay i will probably live with it before reinstalling for awhile as everything is super stable. and i can get another prog. to easily control my pwm fans. thanks when you get chance butterz.


Have you got the jmicron device thing enabled. That happens to me aswell when i have it enabled. I just disabled it now i get just the one screen. Im nearly positive jmicron controller (Whatever) thing is the esata ontroller.


----------



## Chiefpuff420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;14884124*
> Have you got the jmicron device thing enabled. That happens to me aswell when i have it enabled. I just disabled it now i get just the one screen. Im nearly positive jmicron controller (Whatever) thing is the esata ontroller.


thats the only one i avoided downloading yet because ... i heard it gave you issues ahhahahaah, so no i never downloaded the jmicron controller yet. DO i even need to. thanks


----------



## pwnography6

Na you don't need it unless you use eSata.


----------



## jeffblute

Well you can add me, I gotta play with my CPU and ram a bit. Just happy I got it all together again and running, Go go updates!


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;14888380*
> Na you don't need it unless you use eSata.


thats completely wrong... jbmicron, controlles your 2 sata 2 ports, with it disabled, you will no longer be able to use your sata 2 at all,
In the bios navagate to
Advanced Bios> Advanced( Should be tab to Right of AI Tweaker)>Onboard device config
from there you should see 3 options for jbm, if you disable the midle option it will return your boot times while still allowing use of the sata 2 ports


----------



## Chiefpuff420

Quote:



Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*


thats completely wrong... jbmicron, controlles your 2 sata 2 ports, with it disabled, you will no longer be able to use your sata 2 at all, 
In the bios navagate to 
Advanced Bios> Advanced( Should be tab to Right of AI Tweaker)>Onboard device config
from there you should see 3 options for jbm, if you disable the midle option it will return your boot times while still allowing use of the sata 2 ports


Very interesting and good to know, But the thing is butterz... i dont have the Jmicron installed at all, i have my dvd drive plugged into sata 2 and it works perfectly so i might download it just to complete my drivers set and navigate to the bios and disable that middle setting. But if i have a workiing sata 2 ports without it, is it still needed


----------



## cobbly

wow what a board, straight out of box 1 click 4ghz









will up pictures soon

add me please









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1994595


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## Chiefpuff420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14904495*


thanks for cleaning up the Club list there it looks alot better now that im not up there twice with 1 effed link(sorry bout that) lol.


----------



## pcenvy88

ok well turns out the tech I called about the board WAS wrong. got my sata drive in and the board is booting windows 7 fine... only weird thing is... NO BIOS!?

It starts scanning for drivers then comes up with my 2 hard drives listed and press any key to continue. as soon as i boot computer I am pressing delete over and over and never see any or any thing else... should I flash the bios?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcenvy88;14917490*
> ok well turns out the tech I called about the board WAS wrong. got my sata drive in and the board is booting windows 7 fine... only weird thing is... NO BIOS!?
> 
> It starts scanning for drivers then comes up with my 2 hard drives listed and press any key to continue. as soon as i boot computer I am pressing delete over and over and never see any or any thing else... should I flash the bios?


I would... No point in having a 200 dollar mobo and not be able to OC:devil-smi


----------



## pcenvy88

I tried downloading the bios update utility for windows 7 64bit and everytime i try to run it it says it's the wrong version for my OS and I need to get the 32bit or 64bit depending on what I have...

I can't change the boot device priority because I can't get into bios so flashing from thumb drive isn't an option...


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcenvy88;14918965*
> I tried downloading the bios update utility for windows 7 64bit and everytime i try to run it it says it's the wrong version for my OS and I need to get the 32bit or 64bit depending on what I have...
> 
> I can't change the boot device priority because I can't get into bios so flashing from thumb drive isn't an option...


You are running sabertooth right?? if not I cant help, with sabertooth, use the AI suite that comes with the mobo, just go to update>asus update


----------



## pcenvy88

Yes I have the sabertooth, thats why I posted here.

Found it on the CD.. DOH!

Although I'm installing everything available I don't see anything about BIOS. Hope this works!


----------



## pcenvy88

I just installed everything, rebooted, and same problems.









Says Scanning for drivers; None. Then goes blank

Comes back with - Scanning for devices; And lists both of my hard drives.

Press Any Key To Continue - Once you press a key to continue it boots to windows or after 5 seconds it will boot. If I'm pressing delete at this time it just starts the loop over.

I press delete the whole time through POST and I can't get anything from BIOS. I clear CMOS and get Press F1 to Load Defaults and Enter Setup and I press it and it goes back to same loop.


----------



## pcenvy88

So I just used the AI suite to flash BIOS. I flashed it to the current version since there is only one version released so far.

Restarted computer and now I'm back to the same problem. Comes to AMI Bios screen says press F1 to enter setup. Press F1 then it goes though JMicron boot sequence and hangs with the same wierd characters on the screen...

|Ce-$|Ce-$

I also tried booting win xp setup to do a fresh isntall and upgrade to win7 but when I went into setup it didn't recognize any of my hard drives to install on

EDIT** I had my 2 SATA HD's plugged into the 6G sata ports, moved them over to the 3G and windows is running again. Still no BIOS though. BIOS is skipped over and goes to the JMicron screen to scan for devices and drivers... Pressy any key to continue... :X


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcenvy88;14918965*
> I can't change the boot device priority because I can't get into bios so flashing from thumb drive isn't an option...


Boot with the thumb drive only, take off the Sata connectors for all other drives and see if you can install the BIOS.


----------



## cobbly

all finished running @ 4ghz 24/7 idle temps 22 load 42


----------



## pcenvy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker;14919861*
> Boot with the thumb drive only, take off the Sata connectors for all other drives and see if you can install the BIOS.


Tried that just now. Got some error about UI configuration. No I'm back to booting into the same strange characters and getting hung there. I'm seriously stuck and considering just RMA'ing this board to see if thats what it is... I got a successful install of Windows 7 down and that didn't even help. System was completely slow and when I tried to install ACHI/Raid drivers from CD it wouldn't detect a drive to install for for either driver... I'm starting to think this is a board issue.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcenvy88;14921139*
> Tried that just now. Got some error about UI configuration. No I'm back to booting into the same strange characters and getting hung there. I'm seriously stuck and considering just RMA'ing this board to see if thats what it is... I got a successful install of Windows 7 down and that didn't even help. System was completely slow and when I tried to install ACHI/Raid drivers from CD it wouldn't detect a drive to install for for either driver... I'm starting to think this is a board issue.


Still sounds fishy, kinda like its user error, but I have no idea what it could be, try del, f8, and anything else you can think of at post, if you can get into the bios at all, its not your mobo,


----------



## MaciejM

Hello all

Got the Sabertooth 990FX and it seems like a great board but I've had some issues with the AHCI/RAID drivers. When I initially installed on a single 500GB HDD and tried setting BIOS to AHCI the drivers all came back as unsigned (64 bit, off USB). I think I finally got around it by putting back the IDE channel and installing drivers and then switching or something similarly silly. Finally got 2 Patriot Pyro's (60GB) and wanted to use them in RAID 0, all set up, formatted, but again run into the unsigned driver issue, even when using F8 and disable signatures. These are the drivers from ASUS or from the Mobo CD. Is there some magic configuration that allows the stupid RAID drivers to be installed? Love the Sabertooth so far but this is absolutely driving me nuts.

Thanks

Maciej


----------



## ALUCARDVPR

If you ever doubt the Sabertooth or the Crosshair V are good boards
















Awesome

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1980971





Overclocked to 8.429GHz, Guinness World Record for the highest achieved frequency.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKN4VMOenNM&feature=player_embedded[/ame]


----------



## pcenvy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;14922164*
> Still sounds fishy, kinda like its user error, but I have no idea what it could be, try del, f8, and anything else you can think of at post, if you can get into the bios at all, its not your mobo,


I've tried every one of those buttons including any other BIOS buttons I can think of. Since getting this board I haven't gotten into BIOS once, even after flashing the BIOS twice. Everytime I use the jumper to clear CMOS or remove the battery I end up getting to the AMI screen and asks me to press F1 to enter setup. It skips bios and goes to the Jmicron screen and detects no drivers then detects my drives then goes to the weird characters.... I've actually gotten a blank cursor before by pressing F8 and it just sat there. This might have something to do with ACHI/RAID settings but I can't get into anything to change it..

has anyone seen these characters I'm talking about?

It sits at black screen with |Cè▄$|Cè▄$ at the top left and just hangs there...

I have tried putting my drives in the 3G sata ports and 6G sata ports and nothing seems to be working...

EDIT** I just booted with no drives plugged in and now I get a blank screen after Jmicron screen...

If I use my thumb drive with the bios file on it I get a syslinux error.....


----------



## pcenvy88

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MaciejM*


Hello all

Got the Sabertooth 990FX and it seems like a great board but I've had some issues with the AHCI/RAID drivers. When I initially installed on a single 500GB HDD and tried setting BIOS to AHCI the drivers all came back as unsigned (64 bit, off USB). I think I finally got around it by putting back the IDE channel and installing drivers and then switching or something similarly silly. Finally got 2 Patriot Pyro's (60GB) and wanted to use them in RAID 0, all set up, formatted, but again run into the unsigned driver issue, even when using F8 and disable signatures. These are the drivers from ASUS or from the Mobo CD. Is there some magic configuration that allows the stupid RAID drivers to be installed? Love the Sabertooth so far but this is absolutely driving me nuts.

Thanks

Maciej


What about the IDE channel?


----------



## MaciejM

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcenvy88*


What about the IDE channel?


I think I have to reconfigure how things are plugged in. The idea so far is using 4x2tb in RAID 10 for storage and 2 60 GB SSD's in RAID 0, thus all the SATAIII ports would be occupied. ODD and spare hot swap in SATAII. Right now trying to install Win7 onto RAID 0 SSD's from within a running Win7, not working so great, guessing it may have to do with the boot order, sigh.
Not sure how using IDE would help? Or are you suggesting using software RAID to configure the drives rather than changing in BIOS to RAID? Would this be more desireable? I already have 2x2TB running in RAID 0 from BIOS setup and a single 500GB as my OS drive, as a single drive on the RAID setup. Would I have to redo all this (reinstall OS etc) to put it back to AHCI and do software RAID?

Thanks

Maciej


----------



## Awhoon

Question: the rumored amd gpu 7900hd, will it benefit at all from using a pcie3.0 over pcie 2.0 witht the use of xdr2, and will I require a new board if it does benefit from 3.0, ty


----------



## drizek

What nvidia drivers are you guys using for SLI now?


----------



## Chiefpuff420

not related but Nice nitro OC results with the Bulldozer i believe we will have a nice chip for air/water cooling !


----------



## NBrock

Hey everyone! First I would like to introduce myself, my name is Nick. I just got my Sabertooth 990fx last week. My set up is Phenom II x4 955 RB-C3, Sabertooth 990fx, Dual AMD HD 6790 cards, 16 GB Kingston Limited Black Edition Hyper X 1600 DDR3, and two Western Digital 640 GB hard Drives. This is my first set up I have been able to over clock since the good old AMD 939 socket. I had the Asus A8N-SLI Delux with a dual core Opteron 1.8GHz oc'ed to 3.2GHz on liquid cooling.

I am having a bit of trouble getting the ram to run at the advertised speed of 1600. The CPU runs at 3.9GHz for over a day on prime 95 (ram at 1333). With the ram cranked up to 1600 it gets an error within the first 5 min. These are the timings I have tried.

Everything set to auto= 9-9-9-27-40 1T
Custom set=9-9-9-27-36 (what the ram says it should run at) 1T
Custom set=9-9-9-24 everything else auto and 1T
Custom set=9-9-9-24-26 and 1T
For all these the voltage is at the factory stated 1.65v

The NB/CPU voltage is set on auto (I am unfamiliar with this setting as on the old boards you had a CPU voltage setting and a NB voltage setting...not one for each plus a combined setting).

The FSB is set to 200 and the multiplier is 19.5. Voltage is at 1.368

Sorry if this was not a good section to post this in but I figured I would get all the owners to reply since this is the Sabertooth thread









PS: I have been googling, and thanks for any help or information you can give.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NBrock*


Hey everyone! First I would like to introduce myself, my name is Nick. I just got my Sabertooth 990fx last week. My set up is Phenom II x4 955 RB-C3, Sabertooth 990fx, Dual AMD HD 6790 cards, 16 GB Kingston Limited Black Edition Hyper X 1600 DDR3, and two Western Digital 640 GB hard Drives. This is my first set up I have been able to over clock since the good old AMD 939 socket. I had the Asus A8N-SLI Delux with a dual core Opteron 1.8GHz oc'ed to 3.2GHz on liquid cooling.

I am having a bit of trouble getting the ram to run at the advertised speed of 1600. The CPU runs at 3.9GHz for over a day on prime 95 (ram at 1333). With the ram cranked up to 1600 it gets an error within the first 5 min. These are the timings I have tried.

Everything set to auto= 9-9-9-27-40 1T
Custom set=9-9-9-27-36 (what the ram says it should run at) 1T
Custom set=9-9-9-24 everything else auto and 1T
Custom set=9-9-9-24-26 and 1T
For all these the voltage is at the factory stated 1.65v

The NB/CPU voltage is set on auto (I am unfamiliar with this setting as on the old boards you had a CPU voltage setting and a NB voltage setting...not one for each plus a combined setting).

The FSB is set to 200 and the multiplier is 19.5. Voltage is at 1.368

Sorry if this was not a good section to post this in but I figured I would get all the owners to reply since this is the Sabertooth thread









PS: I have been googling, and thanks for any help or information you can give.










Number one you posted in the right thread so don't worry about that, I am sure we can learn you (teach you) some of the things you don't know. You seem to have been around pc's from the way you wrote things out but has your dealings been with AMD or Intel? seems like all Intel cross overs (myself included) have trouble with oc'ing AMD's as they are way different! There are many reasons that you can't get the ram to specs but at the same time find out if those specs are AMD based or Intel, frigging most ram is based on Intel for some dumb reason! Not putting Intel down just there are two main chips not just one lol! Tell some of us here about your skill so we don't come off acting like you are dumb or something if you have none is cool to just be honest and you will see how much help you will get from that


----------



## NBrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;14950436*
> Number one you posted in the right thread so don't worry about that, I am sure we can learn you (teach you) some of the things you don't know. You seem to have been around pc's from the way you wrote things out but has your dealings been with AMD or Intel? seems like all Intel cross overs (myself included) have trouble with oc'ing AMD's as they are way different! There are many reasons that you can't get the ram to specs but at the same time find out if those specs are AMD based or Intel, frigging most ram is based on Intel for some dumb reason! Not putting Intel down just there are two main chips not just one lol! Tell some of us here about your skill so we don't come off acting like you are dumb or something if you have none is cool to just be honest and you will see how much help you will get from that


I am working with the AMD Sabertooth. Its been a long time since I have been overclocking, the BIOS is so much different than on the old 939 board I had. To be honest, with how much stuff is different than it was before you can go ahead and assume I know very little. I will never take insult to someone trying to explain something to me. I really appreciate the quick response.

I was fooling around with some more things. I upped the voltage on the cpu a bit more and it ran a bit longer. I do not know what these (AMD Phenom II x4) chips are safe to bump the voltage up to. Same with the north bridge. Heat so far is not an issue the most I saw under prime 95 was 51c (and correct me if I am wrong) but the max recommended for this chip is 62-65c.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NBrock*


I am working with the AMD Sabertooth. Its been a long time since I have been overclocking, the BIOS is so much different than on the old 939 board I had. To be honest, with how much stuff is different than it was before you can go ahead and assume I know very little. I will never take insult to someone trying to explain something to me. I really appreciate the quick response.

I was fooling around with some more things. I upped the voltage on the cpu a bit more and it ran a bit longer. I do not know what these (AMD Phenom II x4) chips are safe to bump the voltage up to. Same with the north bridge. Heat so far is not an issue the most I saw under prime 95 was 51c (and correct me if I am wrong) but the max recommended for this chip is 62-65c.










All your numbers are right on temps, I am eating but will try and get back soon. I was saying on your level so people did not explian things to much or to little type of thing but now that I and others know where your at we can start you off.

There are some sites i will get the links, plus I can help you as well just eating so be back soon


----------



## NBrock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


All your numbers are right on temps, I am eating but will try and get back soon. I was saying on your level so people did not explian things to much or to little type of thing but now that I and others know where your at we can start you off.

There are some sites i will get the links, plus I can help you as well just eating so be back soon


Cool, thanks. Take your time, its not a major issue as long as I run the ram at 1333 we are all good...well disappointed... but good


----------



## pinkfloyd48

add me please


----------



## Timo Noize

Question about this club ...?...
What color sleeves you use in your pc? (Of course the sleeves of Nils:thumbsups)


----------



## Dave001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NBrock;14949814*
> Hey everyone! First I would like to introduce myself, my name is Nick. I just got my Sabertooth 990fx last week. My set up is Phenom II x4 955 RB-C3, Sabertooth 990fx, Dual AMD HD 6790 cards, 16 GB Kingston Limited Black Edition Hyper X 1600 DDR3, and two Western Digital 640 GB hard Drives. This is my first set up I have been able to over clock since the good old AMD 939 socket. I had the Asus A8N-SLI Delux with a dual core Opteron 1.8GHz oc'ed to 3.2GHz on liquid cooling.
> 
> I am having a bit of trouble getting the ram to run at the advertised speed of 1600. The CPU runs at 3.9GHz for over a day on prime 95 (ram at 1333). With the ram cranked up to 1600 it gets an error within the first 5 min. These are the timings I have tried.
> 
> Everything set to auto= 9-9-9-27-40 1T
> Custom set=9-9-9-27-36 (what the ram says it should run at) 1T
> Custom set=9-9-9-24 everything else auto and 1T
> Custom set=9-9-9-24-26 and 1T
> For all these the voltage is at the factory stated 1.65v
> 
> The NB/CPU voltage is set on auto (I am unfamiliar with this setting as on the old boards you had a CPU voltage setting and a NB voltage setting...not one for each plus a combined setting).
> 
> The FSB is set to 200 and the multiplier is 19.5. Voltage is at 1.368
> 
> Sorry if this was not a good section to post this in but I figured I would get all the owners to reply since this is the Sabertooth thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: I have been googling, and thanks for any help or information you can give.


Hey Nick,
You'll need to raise the CPU/NB voltage, try setting it to 1.25-1.35v, also set your CPU/NB Frequency to 2400-2600mhz for that overclock, and lastly, you could try setting the memory to 2T.

Hope this helps,
Dave


----------



## Gyro

New UEFI 0705 for ST990fx ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/SABERTOOTH_990FX/SABERTOOTH-990FX-ASUS-0705.zip

No change log yet.

Good luck

Gyro


----------



## pinkfloyd48

I have been playing around with this board now since yesterday and I have to say i love it. The only problem i had was it was only showing 12 g of ram. so I took them all out and reseated them and bam 16g. oh and the other thing is If i had to use the top hd cage in my Antec 900 two it would be tight squeeze for sata ports but no big deal


----------



## NBrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave001;14954832*
> Hey Nick,
> You'll need to raise the CPU/NB voltage, try setting it to 1.25-1.35v, also set your CPU/NB Frequency to 2400-2600mhz for that overclock, and lastly, you could try setting the memory to 2T.
> 
> Hope this helps,
> Dave


Cool thanks for the info. I will give this a shot.


----------



## NBrock

So that didn't work








I even put the cpu back to the factory speeds (3.2ghz)
I tried 2T and 1T for the ram on 9-9-9-27 the rest auto and 9-9-9-27-36 (what the ram says it should run at).
Any ideas?


----------



## NBrock

I noticed that ECC mode was enabled on the ram by default. I know that is Error Checking but could that be causing stability issues since my ram does not support it?


----------



## Timo Noize

I want to you in a group, add me please.......


----------



## Tweeky

Upgraded my Saber to BIOS *0705* and all is good
I used EZ Flash util. in the BIOS and put BIOS.ROM file on a thumb drive
Insert the thumb drive and start up the computer and enter the BIOS


----------



## SgtHawker

Same thing here, flawless BIOS update w/ thumbdrive and all is good.


----------



## Keyan

I dont see the new BIOS listed on the asus site. where did you get that link from?


----------



## Gyro

From here ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/
It usually takes a day or two to be put on the D/L page.

Gyro


----------



## THC Butterz

The update works flawlessly, anyone figgure out what it fixed or does yet? I figgure its probably just to prepare for the upcoming release of bulldozer


----------



## Keyan

Well I just updated via AI Suite II. Scared the crap out of me when my computer locked up during the flashing LOL. I guess that's just how it reflashes during windows. It cleared itself up shortly after and the progress bar continued on its merry way


----------



## SobePmp

I tried to update using AI Suite II but I got a message "No proper BIOS image files on the server"


----------



## Keyan

I downloaded it, unzipped to desktop and pointed AI Suite II to that location


----------



## metarox

Update worked but it screwed my Linux install on my second SSD (which is my primary boot device before the choice menu), can't boot to Linux anymore.


----------



## raisethe3

For those that update via the software or in the OS route, my word of advice, DON'T do it. Update the BIOS using your thumb stick and enter BIOS setup to flash. *Make sure your settings are set to default, i.e. put your overclocks back to stock, voltages at stocks, etc.*

Hope this helps everyone.


----------



## caffeinescandal

sooo.. any changelogs yet?


----------



## Keyan

It's probably the same change log as the crosshair v.

Sent from my Droid X via Tapatalk


----------



## THC Butterz

probably, although they are still 2 different mother boards so well see

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


----------



## drizek

The only CPU added to the Crosshair V is the Phenom II X4 980.


----------



## drizek

Quote:


> SABERTOOTH 990FX 0705 BIOS
> 1. Enhance RAID expansion card compatibility.
> 2. Enable support for Spanish and Russian Language.
> 3. Enhance RAID0 performance with SB950 native SATA ports.
> 4. Enable support for UEFI RAID Driver to support RAID partition above 2.2TB.


Not any real changes. I'm gonna benchmark my RAID0 though to see if anything changed on that front.

I was hoping we would have at least had "enhanced system stability".


----------



## Tweeky

Sabertooth $184.99 Free shipping
It changed
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131736


----------



## drizek

My results are pretty variable, but if anything it seems that the BIOS update has decreased RAID0 performance, although it is more consistent now and faster near the end of the drive, the maximum read speed dropped quite a bit, and the average speed dropped from around 190 to 160MB/s.


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drizek;14982803*
> My results are pretty variable, but if anything it seems that the BIOS update has decreased RAID0 performance, although it is more consistent now and faster near the end of the drive, the maximum read speed dropped quite a bit, and the average speed dropped from around 190 to 160MB/s.


My raid0 SSD's are a bit slower also with the new bios.


----------



## sequoia464

I just got this board, not familiar with the bios yet. Am I missing something, I can't find a way to unlock the extra cores of my X2.


----------



## caffeinescandal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sequoia464;14986109*
> I just got this board, not familiar with the bios yet. Am I missing something, I can't find a way to unlock the extra cores of my X2.


Go to the advanced mode. Then to the advanced tab and choose CPU Core On/Off Function. from there enable ASUS Core Unlocker


----------



## jchambers2586

1. go to advanced http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/200/110919225149.png/

2 scroll to CPU on/off function click it http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/97/110919225237.png/

3 click on to Asus core unlocker enable it. http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/707/110919225302.png/

4 set CPU core activation to manual select cores u want to enable

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/24/110919225336.png/

save and exit


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caffeinescandal;14986611*
> Go to the advanced mode. Then to the advanced tab and choose CPU Core On/Off Function. from there enable ASUS Core Unlocker


4 cores now - thanks


----------



## THC Butterz

pinkfloyd48 rejected: cpu-z name does not match OCN username
Otherwise


----------



## pinkfloyd48

Thats alright its on its way back to newegg for rma. I was reseating mem and one of the locking tabs on the 3rd bank just came apart.Never had that happen before.So I hope they accept it. Plus I forgot to use OC name sry


----------



## Bradford1040

figured I would post my new setting, cpu-z really duz not give it justice! I have some timings to tweak still, and can push cpu to 4.5 if I wanted to but really don't see any performance gain from 4.25 to 4.55 so and where between she lands is fine by me. But the ram at 1880mhz did give me a fps in game increase from the sig settings so I will be playing some more in the next couple of days (was hoping to be putting BD in but not till OCT. 12th)


----------



## cook

Add me! I will edit and post some pics up later. I am kinda disappointed that the sabertooth does not have very many usb 2.0 headers on it, I cannot plug my card reader in and the front panel usb's at the same time. That is keeping me from sticking a few pictures in.


----------



## Bradford1040

Two first are the ones I just did and the 3rd is old score


----------



## raisethe3

^^Very nice Brad.


----------



## THC Butterz

Just got some updates on dozer will update when I get off work


----------



## THC Butterz

As Promised, The latest news has been posted at the bottom of the OP in regards to bulldozers release, As authenticated by AMD


----------



## StakkerNo1

Hi Guys, Heres a little overview of my newest overclock settings:

CPU: 3.91 RAM: 1950 VCORE: 1.428 BUS: 243 HTLink: 1950
GPU:1000 GDDR5: 4466 Shader: 2000

RAM Timings: 8-9-8-24-1T

Temps:
CPU: 35C Idle/44-52C Load
NB: 31C Idle/35-39C Load
MB:27C Idle/32-35C Load
DRAM: 30C Idle/34-39C Load

This is with all fans running in silent mode too with the exception of my CPU fan which is still giving me some sensor problems so I have it running at around 75-80% to be on the safe side.

Now I reckon that I can get it higher but as soon as I go above 4Ghz on the CPU the temps seem to shoot right up and I cant seem to get the temps stable when higher than 4Ghz even with the fans at full speed. Any ideas as to what Im needing to change to achieve this?

I also have managed to get my memory running at 2000 with timings of 9-10-9-24 but the memory seems to run slightly slower than the overclock of 1950 with the timings at 8-9-8-24. Has anyone managed to get DDR3 1600 running at 2000 with lower timings on this board?

Also anyone think of what else I could change to increase performance? I am trying to squeeze as much out as I can but still keep the temps at around normal stock temps.... I know a tall order when you want to overclock above 4Ghz!!!!

Oh and Butterz can you tell me how to update my profile so that I have a Sabertooth 990fx owners club logo?

Cheers Guys


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StakkerNo1;15024887*
> Hi Guys, Heres a little overview of my newest overclock settings:
> 
> CPU: 3.91 RAM: 1950 VCORE: 1.428 BUS: 243 HTLink: 1950
> GPU:1000 GDDR5: 4466 Shader: 2000
> 
> RAM Timings: 8-9-8-24-1T
> 
> Temps:
> CPU: 35C Idle/44-52C Load
> NB: 31C Idle/35-39C Load
> MB:27C Idle/32-35C Load
> DRAM: 30C Idle/34-39C Load
> 
> This is with all fans running in silent mode too with the exception of my CPU fan which is still giving me some sensor problems so I have it running at around 75-80% to be on the safe side.
> 
> Now I reckon that I can get it higher but as soon as I go above 4Ghz on the CPU the temps seem to shoot right up and I cant seem to get the temps stable when higher than 4Ghz even with the fans at full speed. Any ideas as to what Im needing to change to achieve this?
> 
> I also have managed to get my memory running at 2000 with timings of 9-10-9-24 but the memory seems to run slightly slower than the overclock of 1950 with the timings at 8-9-8-24. Has anyone managed to get DDR3 1600 running at 2000 with lower timings on this board?
> 
> Also anyone think of what else I could change to increase performance? I am trying to squeeze as much out as I can but still keep the temps at around normal stock temps.... I know a tall order when you want to overclock above 4Ghz!!!!
> 
> Oh and Butterz can you tell me how to update my profile so that I have a Sabertooth 990fx owners club logo?
> 
> Cheers Guys


do you mean by logo the sabertooth link in you sig?


----------



## StakkerNo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;15026899*
> do you mean by logo the sabertooth link in you sig?


Hi Bradford,

Yes lol, I was just wondering how you guys do these links......

On another note i still cant get my x6 upto the 4Ghz mark and be stable....... its annoying me... the temps seem pretty good except CPU when its overclocked that high!!


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StakkerNo1*


Hi Bradford,

Yes lol, I was just wondering how you guys do these links......

On another note i still cant get my x6 upto the 4Ghz mark and be stable....... its annoying me... the temps seem pretty good except CPU when its overclocked that high!!










If your temps are really that high try resetting your heating and Tim


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StakkerNo1*


Hi Bradford,

Yes lol, I was just wondering how you guys do these links......

On another note i still cant get my x6 upto the 4Ghz mark and be stable....... its annoying me... the temps seem pretty good except CPU when its overclocked that high!!










On the sig thing that's easy just go to the first post or even copy mine or anyone's you like and then go to your sig part of the control panel and add the hyperlink icon on the top of the box (if you pass on mouse over it will say what it is) then when the little box comes up insert/paste the link you copied and save or preview then save. I can show you some tricks as far as code is for doing some things in there but I am no expert lol


----------



## Tikerz

Add me please, thanks!


----------



## wackyshut

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gyro*


From here ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/
It usually takes a day or two to be put on the D/L page.

Gyro



Quote:



Originally Posted by *SobePmp*


I tried to update using AI Suite II but I got a message "No proper BIOS image files on the server"


I'm also get the same message when i want to update bios from AI Suite..
Is it safe update bios manually from asus server???

Quote:



Originally Posted by *metarox*


Update worked but it screwed my Linux install on my second SSD (which is my primary boot device before the choice menu), can't boot to Linux anymore.


Ehm...i think maybe you could repair your linux installation..
BTW, what's distro you used?


----------



## Gyro

The 0705 bios is now on the Asus D/L page.http://support.asus.com/download.asp...GanpgqHG8yN8yQ

The bios comes zipped,so you will have to unzip to get the rom. file.
I also suggest using EZ-Flash 2.

Good luck

Gyro


----------



## Darkpriest667

Ive looked at this and 2 other board for AM3+ pending bulldozer benchmarks.

Can anyone tell me if the Hyper 212 clears the ram slots on this board?

Also does the Sabertooth have UEFI bios?

NVM a newegg review answered the UEFI question but still curious abou tthe hyper 212.. I didnt realize how massive this thing was!


----------



## metarox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wackyshut;15035273*
> I'm also get the same message when i want to update bios from AI Suite..
> Is it safe update bios manually from asus server???
> 
> Ehm...i think maybe you could repair your linux installation..
> BTW, what's distro you used?


I did. It's just weird that it deleted the boot entry point for Xunbuntu but left the one for Windows intact. I just forced a re-install of the bootloader and all was fine, it was re-added to the BIOS menu so that I could select it as primary boot point.


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## drizek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Darkpriest667*


Ive looked at this and 2 other board for AM3+ pending bulldozer benchmarks.

Can anyone tell me if the Hyper 212 clears the ram slots on this board?

Also does the Sabertooth have UEFI bios?

NVM a newegg review answered the UEFI question but still curious abou tthe hyper 212.. I didnt realize how massive this thing was!


I don't have the 212, but my cooler is a similar size. Basically, I just had to nudge the fan up by around 1mm so that it would be directly above my ram sticks. If there is some play in the Hyper212 fan mounting, you can probably get away with it assuming you don't have ridiculous ramsinks.


----------



## RJacobs28

@Darkpriest667

I have the Hyper 212+ installed on my Sabertooth and it is a bloody tight fit! The cooler is putting some minor pressure on my first DIMM in slot 1. Any RAM with a large extravagant heat disperser isnt going to go into slot 1 with the 212+ present.

For reference, the RAM i'm using is:
http://msy.com.au/product.jsp?productId=7244

Hope that helps.


----------



## raisethe3

Yeah, I figure with tall heatspreader it would very difficult. Learned my lesson as well.

Back then I bought my AM2+ mobo, I bought a Corsair DDR2 DHX (the silver with high spreader, looks like a DOMINATOR but with a "paint job"), and I couldn't stick my cooler in at all.

Lesson learned.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJacobs28;15053861*
> @Darkpriest667
> 
> I have the Hyper 212+ installed on my Sabertooth and it is a bloody tight fit! The cooler is putting some minor pressure on my first DIMM in slot 1. Any RAM with a large extravagant heat disperser isnt going to go into slot 1 with the 212+ present.
> 
> For reference, the RAM i'm using is:
> http://msy.com.au/product.jsp?productId=7244
> 
> Hope that helps.


----------



## pshootr

Was your Sabertooth box wrapped in plastic?


----------



## Th3Gatekeep3r

Add Me pls











Currently running 1100T BE @ 4.08GHz... Seriously want more, but the chip isnt having it... Still playing around with a higher base clock/lower multi, but its slow going.


----------



## FiX

Add me








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2016917
Athlon II X4 630 @ 2.8ghz (stock for now







) Il get pics this weekend when I set up WC


----------



## 10 Gauge

Does anyone know if the Silver Arrow has fitment problems with the memory slots on the Sabertooth or Crosshair V? I am using all 4 slots and want to make sure this cooler isn't going to block any sockets.

Thanks.


----------



## proikismenos

slow boot and many problems !!! help please


----------



## caffeinescandal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *proikismenos;15075332*
> slow boot and many problems !!! help please


It'd help if you described what your problems were.


----------



## 10 Gauge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10 Gauge;15071593*
> Does anyone know if the Silver Arrow has fitment problems with the memory slots on the Sabertooth or Crosshair V? I am using all 4 slots and want to make sure this cooler isn't going to block any sockets.
> 
> Thanks.


Anyone?

Trying to verify that my 16gb Ripjaw kit will work on either of these boards with the Silver Arrow.

Thanks!


----------



## raisethe3

It might fit, but could be tight. The heatspreader might touch the heatsink of the cooler, but shouldn't be too much problem.

http://i54.tinypic.com/qoakn6.jpg

*not my link*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10 Gauge;15078224*
> Anyone?
> 
> Trying to verify that my 16gb Ripjaw kit will work on either of these boards with the Silver Arrow.
> 
> Thanks!


----------



## 10 Gauge

Thanks, I guess I'll just have to take my chances and pray for the best.


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10 Gauge;15078224*
> Anyone?
> 
> Trying to verify that my 16gb Ripjaw kit will work on either of these boards with the Silver Arrow.
> 
> Thanks!


It Won't fit. I got the G.skill snipers and my silver arrow just barely clears it.


----------



## 10 Gauge

The actual heatsink or the fan? I don't mind setting up the fans in a Pull/Pull setup.


----------



## proikismenos

my pc boot in 1 minute this is ok ? or slow ? when i press the power to my screen


----------



## 10 Gauge

Considering you have an SSD as per your signature, that's really slow.

I'm @ my desktop with all background programs loaded in ~20 seconds.


----------



## proikismenos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10 Gauge;15091071*
> Considering you have an SSD as per your signature, that's really slow.
> 
> I'm @ my desktop with all background programs loaded in ~20 seconds.


i dont now what the broblem is you can help me? whit my msi 790fx it boot in 30 seconts whats rong is mobos problem or somthing other?


----------



## 10 Gauge

Post up what your disk transfer speeds are from an ATTO benchmark run....


----------



## proikismenos

my ssd works fine ! from my pc the new is the mobo


----------



## proikismenos




----------



## proikismenos

ok ?


----------



## proikismenos




----------



## SgtHawker

Did you disable the Jmicron controller? .

It will take time to search for drives on the Black SATA II and eSATA plugs, if you don't use them, then it will boot faster if disabled and not wasting time searching for drives that are not hooked up.


----------



## proikismenos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker;15092709*
> Did you disable the Jmicron controller? .
> 
> It will take time to search for drives on the Black SATA II and eSATA plugs, if you don't use them, then it will boot faster if disabled and not wasting time searching for drives that are not hooked up.


thanks !! now boot in 30 seconds ! a question what is best to put ram 8gb ocz 2000mhz 6-9-6-24 or leave these as i have corsair 16gb 1600mhz 9-9-9-24


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10 Gauge;15088744*
> The actual heatsink or the fan? I don't mind setting up the fans in a Pull/Pull setup.


The actual sink. It REALLY won't fit with the fan. I have a pull/pull setup. I tried a push pull, but I had to raise the fan up so high the side panel wouldn't fit on.

Edit: I should add that this pertains to the first slot (maybe the second as well) closest to the CPU. If you're not using the first slot, you're probably fine with ripjaws. The second could be used but you may have to "bend" the ram a millimeter away and rest it on the sink. I think you were looking at 16GB though which would take up all 4 slots.


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## MirceaForce

Hello

I have seen that many if you have this cpu 955 BE and I want to overclock my system......here is my config:

AMD Phenom II x4 3.2 GHZ 955 Black Edition (AM3 cpu)
Motherboard Sabertooth 990FX (0705 bios)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 1866 CL 9 dual channel kit 4gbx2(8GB)
SSD: OCZ Agility 3 Sata III 60GB os - HDD 1tb Caviar Black sata III
Power supply : Sirtec High power 600W
Video Card : Nvidia EVGA GTX 460 OC
Case: Cooler Master Haf 932
Cpu cooler: Arctic Cooling Freezer 13

I want to reach at least 4Ghz ....maybe 4.2-4.5Ghz.... stable 24/7 if you cand guide me to the bios settings, complete bios settings









I will test my system with prime 95 for stability...









Thank you for your time


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MirceaForce;15104443*
> Hello
> 
> I have seen that many if you have this cpu 955 BE and I want to overclock my system......here is my config:
> 
> AMD Phenom II x4 3.2 GHZ 955 Black Edition (AM3 cpu)
> Motherboard Sabertooth 990FX (0705 bios)
> Memory: Corsair Vengeance 1866 CL 9 dual channel kit 4gbx2(8GB)
> SSD: OCZ Agility 3 Sata III 60GB os - HDD 1tb Caviar Black sata III
> Power supply : Sirtec High power 600W
> Video Card : Nvidia EVGA GTX 460 OC
> Case: Cooler Master Haf 932
> Cpu cooler: Arctic Cooling Freezer 13
> 
> I want to reach at least 4Ghz ....maybe 4.2-4.5Ghz.... stable 24/7 if you cand guide me to the bios settings, complete bios settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will test my system with prime 95 for stability...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for your time


you still need help? sorry was not on line well was just playing games on steam lol


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MirceaForce;15104443*
> Hello
> 
> I have seen that many if you have this cpu 955 BE and I want to overclock my system......here is my config:
> 
> AMD Phenom II x4 3.2 GHZ 955 Black Edition (AM3 cpu)
> Motherboard Sabertooth 990FX (0705 bios)
> Memory: Corsair Vengeance 1866 CL 9 dual channel kit 4gbx2(8GB)
> SSD: OCZ Agility 3 Sata III 60GB os - HDD 1tb Caviar Black sata III
> Power supply : Sirtec High power 600W
> Video Card : Nvidia EVGA GTX 460 OC
> Case: Cooler Master Haf 932
> Cpu cooler: Arctic Cooling Freezer 13
> 
> I want to reach at least 4Ghz ....maybe 4.2-4.5Ghz.... stable 24/7 if you cand guide me to the bios settings, complete bios settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will test my system with prime 95 for stability...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for your time


Start and see where you get with the Auto overclocking setting first. I was only able to get my 955 to a stable 3.7, but that's mainly due to the fact that it's a C2 stepping which doesn't overclock very well.


----------



## MirceaForce

I have saw on the first page that someone manege to overclock the cpu to 4216Mhz....I have a friend and he told that the ram has better overclocking potential if mounted on the second slots....


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MirceaForce;15109531*
> I have saw on the first page that someone manege to overclock the cpu to 4216Mhz....I have a friend and he told that the ram has better overclocking potential if mounted on the second slots....


true, I got to 4.8 with all slots filled, 16gb of ram, thats hard because that much ram and every slot full is just a hard push but you can hit 4.2 stable easy no matter how you have your RAM, your ram should be lower than or equal to 1333 when overclocking your cpu anyway, then raise it when your stable if you can


----------



## MirceaForce

some bios settings will be useful if you can post...........

Thanks


----------



## THC Butterz

im not going to give you my full bios settings because you cant learn by cheating, what I can tell you is exactly what some of my cpu-z posts will tell you I run 240 on the fsb, with a 17.5-18.5 mult @ arround 1.5v, there are meny other settings that may have to be tweeked for stability and speed because the ghz isnt the only way to speed up your cpu, but this I suggest googleing or cruzing arround the forums for a oc tut but those numbers should get you to 4+ghz, my advice play with your multiplyer only first, bumping it up.5 at a time untill you find your max stable mult and then raise your fsb from 200 to 205 to 210...etc untill you find your unstable to find your highest stable bus, you get the Idea, and remember what I said before, keep your ram @ 1333 or below untill your done ocing your cpu, to increase stability


----------



## MirceaForce

maybe this will help me

http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/49...x4-9x5-oc.html


----------



## Keyan

With a BE chip, you don't have to raise the fsb do you?

Sent from my Droid X via Tapatalk


----------



## mentive

Just built a new rig with one =D Loving it so far but the bios is overwhelming.


----------



## vartok

just got this mobo tuesday and am still trying to get everything in order... I guess im a bet of a newbie at OCing, as ive NEVER had this many options to play with. I think i got most of it figured out, but im confuzed with the digi+ setting in the asus software. can someone give me a better explanation of what the settings in there do? i dont want to cook anything and the short explanitions in the software arnt really that helpful


----------



## Awhoon

ed


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MirceaForce*


some bios settings will be useful if you can post...........

Thanks



would you still like bios settings? once again sorry I have not been posting as much! I have been gaming allot and just have not been watching posts like I used to


----------



## pwnography6

Heya guys sick of blowing out my temps so been looking at getting some of this action..
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_241_589&products_id=23640
and
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_401_597&products_id=23417
I know the ek nb/sb 6 fits this board but just curious about the koolance block do you think it will fit on this beast. Iv seen them fitted on similar designed boards . Really wanna try cool her down a bit.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;15136987*
> Heya guys sick of blowing out my temps so been looking at getting some of this action..
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_241_589&products_id=23640
> and
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_401_597&products_id=23417
> I know the ek nb/sb 6 fits this board but just curious about the koolance block do you think it will fit on this beast. Iv seen them fitted on similar designed boards . Really wanna try cool her down a bit.


well I think that ek also makes the same item but there is more to it I think, but first what are so bad about your temp mine are all down in fact this is the coolest board I have ever owned (temps wise) what are your temps?


----------



## pwnography6

vcore 1 and vcore 2 in thermal radar hitting 46 + at stock speeds and 1.44v. Considering its winter here im beginning to really freak out about my summer temps. All other temps even my cpu are below 32.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pwnography6*


vcore 1 and vcore 2 in thermal radar hitting 46 + at stock speeds and 1.44v. Considering its winter here im beginning to really freak out about my summer temps. All other temps even my cpu are below 32.


are both vcores the same? that's odd, how are your bios setting on vrm's set up?


----------



## pwnography6

Vcore 1 is usually about 4 degrees warmer. And as for settings at the moment there completely stock with volts wound down thats it. It doesnt seem to matter where the volts are what speed im running iv tried everything to drop these temps including ditching my oc. The only way i can get these temps remotely good is to put a desk fan next to my case and point it at it.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pwnography6*


Vcore 1 is usually about 4 degrees warmer. And as for settings at the moment there completely stock with volts wound down thats it. It doesnt seem to matter where the volts are what speed im running iv tried everything to drop these temps including ditching my oc. The only way i can get these temps remotely good is to put a desk fan next to my case and point it at it.


OK what I meant was cpu power phase control? I have mine on extreme and c-probe in bios BTW not that stupid asus tool plus put the cpu volt control on auto and the llc on extrem and 110% each cpu and cpu/nb and see what you get then. remember each setting


----------



## pwnography6

ok will try that dude cheers. I have pretty much a new full loop on on the way ditching this rasa stuff onto my test rack. Any chance you could find out about that ek block for me just in case?

Had a quick look at whats compatible for our mobo over there and could only find nb/sb.


----------



## infini

I plan to buy a 4GB memory stick for this board. Which of these do you suggest?

  Transcend - Memory - 4 GB - DIMM 240-pin - DDR3 - 1333 MHz / PC3-10600 - CL9 - 1.5 V - unbuffered - non-ECC: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories
http://www.computeruniverse.net/prod...msung+4GB+1333


----------



## pwnography6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;15142760*
> OK what I meant was cpu power phase control? I have mine on extreme and c-probe in bios BTW not that stupid asus tool plus put the cpu volt control on auto and the llc on extrem and 110% each cpu and cpu/nb and see what you get then. remember each setting


Tried it was no change in temps at all.Thanks anyways dude. Gonna pull the heatsinks off later in the week and measure it all up . Cant find anyone anywhere with a pic of a full sabertooth 990fx watercooled so i got no reference.

I know the nb will fit so fingers crossed on the mosfets.


----------



## sequoia464

Anyone know the latest raid drivers? I'm using 3.2.1540.92 - has AMD released newer ones?


----------



## DSP1

Now all I need is to get that Ceram!x on my Silver Arrow and it would match perfectly


----------



## crust_cheese

Verification post.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1979583


----------



## crust_cheese

So, how good an overclocker is the Sabertooth 990FX compared to the Crosshair V Formula? Are the Crosshair's features even useful?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crust_cheese*


So, how good an overclocker is the Sabertooth 990FX compared to the Crosshair V Formula? Are the Crosshair's features even useful?


there seems to be no performance difference between the two, I have been talking with many CH-V and CH-IV owners for awhile because when this board first came out it had allot of the same features as the CH boards and all the boards I was used to did not have the settings this thing has

All'n'All it is a great board that gets very good temps and overclocks very well! I myself have found my sweet spot at my settings in my sig for 24/7 365


----------



## pwnography6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crust_cheese*


So, how good an overclocker is the Sabertooth 990FX compared to the Crosshair V Formula? Are the Crosshair's features even useful?


I love this board it's awsome for clocking nearly got to 5ghz on my 975 will be putting a 955 in soon too, i expect some nice results.


----------



## Serper

All,

I just just got a Asus Sabertooth 990FX, AMD Phenom II x6 1100T 3.3Ghz Black Edition with Consair H-100 Water Cooling, Mushkin Enhanced Radioactive 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Model 997006 with 7-9-8-24 1.65V, eVGA GTX 560 Ti SOC DS (Getting one more for 2-Way SLI), finally a OCZ Vertex 3 SSD, a couple 2 TB SATA2, and finally my beast of storage with a eSATA RAID5 8TB 5-Bay SANS Digital with RRAID622, and RAID1 2TB Rosewell 2-Bay Enclosure, Antec High Current Gamer Series HCG-750 750W ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V v2.91 SLI Certified CrossFire Certified 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply

Want another couple sticks of that Mushkin but it's OUT OF STOCK on Newegg.

I was hoping someone could recommend some tried and tested settings, since I figure others must have a similar setup. I know this build could really run at 4Ghz and like some suggestions on how to obtain a speed like that with this build. Any guidance would be appreciated.

-serper


----------



## mothman

I didn't read through the whole thread but has anyone had trouble installing AiSuite? I get this strange security message and the installer won't start.


----------



## pwnography6

Yeah a few people have had probs installing AIsuite if you relly need it all I can suggest to fix it is a fresh OS install.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pwnography6*


Yeah a few people have had probs installing AIsuite if you relly need it all I can suggest to fix it is a fresh OS install.


yes, a fresh install is necessary, but beyond that the only way i have found to guarantee it will install is to make sure every driver for the motherboard is installed first, even unnecessary ones, once it fails, from my expirience the only way to get it to work is a fresh install of the OS, followed by installing every driver then the AI suite


----------



## THC Butterz

Added a new section to the members list: *membership status*
*Active*=no action needed
*Pending*= need verification PM will be sent
*Unverified*=more than 2 weeks without verification PM will be sent, 2 more weeks and you will be removed from the list
*Retired*= no longer own the mother board and left thread in high standing
*Inactive*= removed from thread by mods or removed from forum, usually a result of TROLLING, so don't troll

*PM'S Sent*


----------



## Serper

I set the Overclock AI to automatic and set my memory at DDR3 1600. I noticed my CPU was running at ~3.9Ghz from just that minimum adjustment. I read somewhere that because I'm using a AMD Phenom II x6 Black Edigtion that I don't need to do anything except the CPU multiplier to overclock, Is this true? Don't I need to adjust the other settings to get the full benefit of the DDR3 1600 (12800)?

Please advise. I listed my system specs up above in the previous thread.

Thanks.

-ls


----------



## Serper

Anyone have a similar setup with Asus Sabertooth 990FX, AMD Phenom II x6 1100T, Mushkin DDR3 1600 (12800) 2x4G?

I need advice on overclocking this setup, I'm sure this beast could handle 4+ Ghz...

Thanks,

-ls


----------



## 10 Gauge

I just got my board in and got my system rebuilt, this board is a BEAST! Way better than my crappy old M5A97.

Fired right up at 4.2ghz IBT stable. Great googly moogly!

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2033436


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## BMfan

Hi. I would like to be added to the list.
I would also like to know has anyone been able to change the HT speed in the bios.I was able to use overdrive but i prefer to use the bios to do hardware settings.


----------



## l_Will_l

ADD ME

Please. XD

CPUZ - http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2029387

AMD 1090T @ 4ghz

And I added a screenshot. Anyone else have any TUF wallpapers?

EDIT: Well I mucked up while updating the list myself. Is it possible to fix that hyperlink?


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## Th3Gatekeep3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10 Gauge;15205339*
> I just got my board in and got my system rebuilt, this board is a BEAST! Way better than my crappy old M5A97.
> 
> Fired right up at 4.2ghz IBT stable. Great googly moogly!
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2033436


You know how long I have been trying to get 4.1 stable?! What settings got you there? Volts, fsb, etc?


----------



## 10 Gauge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th3Gatekeep3r;15226609*
> You know how long I have been trying to get 4.1 stable?! What settings got you there? Volts, fsb, etc?


1.5vcore, CPU LLC @ Ultra High, 1.3v NB, 1.3v CPU/NB, 200 x 21. That's pretty much it....

I actually dropped it back to 4.1 for 24/7 as I can pull off 8+ hour prime stable w/ only 1.46vcore. I mean 1.5 isn't bad and it stays cool with the Silver Arrow and probably would be nothing to worry about but I do like keeping it under 1.5v personally.


----------



## Th3Gatekeep3r

I think that is my main limiting factor too, 1.5+ seems high for 24/7 use to me, I might change my mind before long though. It seems like I just managed to get 4.12 (265x15.5 @ 1.49375, 2920mhz CPU/NB @ 1.3375v) stable with some voltage tweaks. I do notice that you are running you NB/HT higher, does that give you more stability? My NB/HT has been left alone at 1.2v so far...


----------



## 10 Gauge

I honestly couldn't tell you, I like to juice everything up just a tad, I like to think it helps, it may not, lol.


----------



## pwnography6

Anyone got there board outside there case I need a measurement on the Mosfet heat transfer plate. I measured it roughly inside my case but it's hard because of my WC setup . Anyways the measurement i got was around 12.7 cm. Any second measurements would be great.


----------



## Starbomba

I'm thinking to buy this motherboard, but i want to know if it has core unlocking features as i have not heard about them from 9xx's chipsets.

What i want is a mobo for my BD rig, and to find and bin Phenoms to unlock and OC.

Also, is there any side-by-side comparison with the Crosshair V and the Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5? Those are other mobos i'm looking at.


----------



## StakkerNo1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Starbomba*


I'm thinking to buy this motherboard, but i want to know if it has core unlocking features as i have not heard about them from 9xx's chipsets.

What i want is a mobo for my BD rig, and to find and bin Phenoms to unlock and OC.

Also, is there any side-by-side comparison with the Crosshair V and the Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5? Those are other mobos i'm looking at.


Hi Starbomba,

This board does indeed have core unlocking abilities but from other posts I have read, can be a bit tempremental with unlocking cores especially on X2 phenoms although again from what research ive done this is more down to the individual chips than the board itself.

As for comparisons with the crosshair v board they are very similar in terms of overclocking capablilty and features although I would say the sabertooth probably has slightly more durable components which should give the board a slightly longer shelf life than the crosshair. I havent really done much research with regards the gigabyte board so am not able to give a good comparison.

The corsshair v supports slightly faster ddr3, better built in audio codec, and more accessories, but is only 3-way sli compared to quad support on the sabertooth.

Overall all though I am very very impressed with the sabertooth and would highly rcommend it to anyone looking to upgrade.


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StakkerNo1;15234567*
> Hi Starbomba,
> 
> This board does indeed have core unlocking abilities but from other posts I have read, can be a bit tempremental with unlocking cores especially on X2 phenoms although again from what research ive done this is more down to the individual chips than the board itself.


My X2 is running all four cores - I think you are correct in that it is the chip itself that would be the limiting factor.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;15233923*
> Anyone got there board outside there case I need a measurement on the Mosfet heat transfer plate. I measured it roughly inside my case but it's hard because of my WC setup . Anyways the measurement i got was around 12.7 cm. Any second measurements would be great.


Im on a tech station build. I could get you some measurements. Snap a pic and lemme know from what exact points you need a measurement... edit it with paint or somethin...


----------



## Starbomba

StakkerNo1 and sequoia464, thanks for the answers, repped.

I know unlocking is more dependant on the CPU itself (if it wasn't locked for true defective stuff and not just to meet demand, plus core code name), but i still want to try. No one can't deny it is fun (and a darned good bang for buck) to unlock and x2/x3/x4 and find a fully working x4/x5/x6.

I don't plan to build a monster machine (for now) but i need a cheap but good 4+ core BOINC machine, plus a test bed for binning Phenoms. My current rig games fine and my true update would be either a Haswell CPU, Ivy if they tend to be more awesome than SB, or BD-E.


----------



## pwnography6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


Im on a tech station build. I could get you some measurements. Snap a pic and lemme know from what exact points you need a measurement... edit it with paint or somethin...


Cool your a champ dude. The points i need measured are in red. Just trying to get the length of the heat transfer surface on the mosfets.


----------



## M4fade

Question! A nooby one, actually.

Does it matter what PCIe slot I use with a single GPU on this board? I'm pretty certain it doesn't, looking at the manual here.

I ask this because it is a extremely tight fit with a 5970 in my CM690 Advanced using PCIe Slot 1. It's RIGHT against the top HDD cage.


----------



## Starbomba

Quote:



Originally Posted by *M4fade*


Question! A nooby one, actually.

Does it matter what PCIe slot I use with a single GPU on this board? I'm pretty certain it doesn't, looking at the manual here.

I ask this because it is a extremely tight fit with a 5970 in my CM690 Advanced using PCIe Slot 1. It's RIGHT against the top HDD cage.


As long as you're using a PCIE_16 slot i'd say there's no problem.


----------



## Th3Gatekeep3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6;15242244*
> Cool your a champ dude. The points i need measured are in red. Just trying to get the length of the heat transfer surface on the mosfets.


you planning on a custom water cooling plate for those? I want to drown them but theres no blocks for our board yet... I've seen some universal type things, but I feel like I could easily screw something up!


----------



## pwnography6

yeah im going water on the board got most of the stuff ordered il let you kow how it all works out.


----------



## Th3Gatekeep3r

What all are you putting on it if you dont mind my asking? are you using some kind of universal solution?


----------



## infini

The SATA port in which the DVDRW is connected, should be set to AHCI or IDE?


----------



## drizek

ahci, unless you have a good reason to use IDE


----------



## THC Butterz

anyone have any idea what this 3 pin header is above the digi + vrm chip??
oh and pwnography, hows the tim on these things


----------



## pwnography6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;15257943*
> anyone have any idea what this 3 pin header is above the digi + vrm chip??
> oh and pwnography, hows the tim on these things


Haven't pulled the stok heat sink off yet so im unsure but will be doing it in the next day or 2 so will keep everyone updated.


----------



## Tweeky

New BIOS on ASUS FTP site 0810
ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/SABERTOOTH_990FX/


----------



## THC Butterz

I installed the asus Suite for the CHV over the Sabertooth one last night... it ads a few more things that seem to be functional, I also installed Game first from the CHV downloads page and it also seems to be working correctly, just letting yall know


----------



## metarox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky;15260502*
> New BIOS on ASUS FTP site 0810
> ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/SABERTOOTH_990FX/


Do we have the release notes for it or is this just adding AMD FX support?


----------



## mothman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metarox;15262878*
> Do we have the release notes for it or is this just adding AMD FX support?


Thats an excellent question. I'm gonna pick up an FX-8150 tomorrow and wanted to know if 0705 supports FX.


----------



## Speced

Anyone know it's possible to do 3 way SLI/Crossfire without blocking off the front io ports like usb,on off switch?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speced;15267138*
> Anyone know it's possible to do 3 way SLI/Crossfire without blocking off the front io ports like usb,on off switch?


you got 2 options, find a right angled usb header or single slot water cooling


----------



## sweffymo

The new BIOS fixed the clock speed discrepancy, but I can't bot into Windows at all now because it causes a ton of BSODs.









Now I have to download the old one on my phone and re-flash.









Edit: Would someone please upload it to an http server (even OCN) because my phone won't download it from ASUS' sites. Thanks.

Edit 2: Never mind. Got it.


----------



## infini

The Bulldozer is not yet listed in the CPU support list.


----------



## StakkerNo1

Yippeeee..... Finally managed to get my chip at 4Ghz and running extremely cool and without having to increase any of my fans which are running in silent mode at the moment.....

Current speeds:

CPU: 4.04
RAM: 1894
GFX Core: 950
GFX RAM: 4400
GFX Shader 1900
V-Core: 1.44

On a slightly dissapointing note however from what reviews I have read so far it appears bulldozer may well flop........ still love my sabertooth though....


----------



## sweffymo

Gow the newest BIOS to work. Must have had a bad flash or something last night.


----------



## SBN1977

http://www.guru3d.com/article/amd-fx-8150-processor-review/
What a joke, I'll just buy a 2nd GTX 570 instead. This CPU was market as high end gameing CPU, and all it is a nice work CPU. Atleast the Sabertooth is still a great MB


----------



## awspeed

New to using Forums, so I hope I don't somehow offend. I'm not sure if I should be posting this before I give proof of my Motherboard type...which I will try to do with this post. I've taken some pitcures of both my motherboard and a shot of my WEI and CPUZ Info and uploaded the Pic to this site. So Please add me to the Sabertooth 990FX owners club.
























I have had this new Sabertooth 990FX for a couple of weeks now, upgrading from a MSI NF980-G65...Some in here say that the Sabertooth 990FX is the first Nvidia SLI capable Motherboard for AMD processors. Not so. There were a couple others using the 980 chipset for the past few years. I started upgrading from my MSI motherboard due to wanting a DX11 capable graphics card. I used 2 BFG watercooled GTX 280s in SLI with a AMD 955 for years and although they still played most games very well, there are a lot of DX11 games now...so upgrade time. With the new 580s in SLI of course I had to have a new processor next. I got the AMD 1100T and of course my MSI board wouldn't work without a new Bios...Well I bricked the motherboard







So, I looked around and the Sabertooth 990FX looked like the best replacement, being that later I could use the new AMD Bulldozer processor. At the same time, I went ahead and got 4 sticks of G.Skill Sniper F3-14900CL9-4GBSR Ram for 16 Gigs of ram and my first SSD.

Sounds good eh? Well, out of 5 or so rigs that I've built over the years, I've never had so much trouble out of ram. The MSI board ran 4 gigs of Corsair 1600 ram without a hitch for years. I just stuck it in set the timings and voltage and forgot about it. The G.Skill Ram I chose for this board has been nothing but trouble. The 402 bios didn't properly recognize it setting the timings correct, I think, except for putting it at 1t instead of 2t. I know the ram is 1866 ram but I thought it would be able to run at a lower speed until the bulldozer proc came out. Even though I had just bricked my last motherboard, I decided that the 705 bios might help with my problems...Oh, didn't mention my problems yet. The system will constantly BSOD or just reboot for no apparent reason. Sometimes even though the Bios sees 16 gigs of ram, windows 7 64 will only use 8. Some times the bios will not even see 16 gigs. I've tried it with only 8 and still have BSODs. I've run it at 1333mhz, 1600mhz and 1066Mhz. I've forced the Voltage at all times to 1.5v. I've increased the CPU-NB voltage to 1.25 and 1.35. I've adjusted theFSB to 2400Mhz for 1600Mhz....Well, back to the 705 bios. The new bios partially stabilized the ram putting the timings at 1600Mhz, 11-11-11-28 2t and I still have the voltage at 1.5. Question is, since the bios chose the 1600 speed without overclocking anything, do I still have to set my FSB at 2400 and increase the CPU-NB voltage? Should the ram be able to run at this speed? Do I need to use the Profile in the bios for 1866Mhz or should I downclock to 1333Mhz and then will I still need to overvolt the CPU-NB?








That was a lot for my first Forum post! I hope I'm doing this right. If not just let me know. Thanks ahead of time for any advice you can give me.


----------



## THC Butterz

^^ not the first to in-able sli on amd processor, the first to in-able sli utilizing an amd chip set (nb 990) the 980 was a nvidia chip set
and as for the ram, the phenom memory controller can only utalize 1600 properly, and I would stick with 1600, the cpu-nb is particularly usefull for overclocking the system because it will speed you up, but it is part of the actual processor so anytime you up it, you must up the voltage accordingly


----------



## awspeed

THC Butterz;15281540not the first to in-able sli on amd processor said:


> Aw, Should have read closer. Probably just my bad attitude due to having so little choices for AM3 and Nvidia SLI in the recent years...Just seeing through tunnel vision.
> 
> As for the CPU-NB Voltage, it seems to me that people beleive due to the added work to use 16 gigs of ram, more voltage may be needed to be stable. But then although I have overclocked before, (The 955 ran @3.6ghz for nearly 3 years)I have always used the lazy way just uping the Multiplier and adding a small CPU Voltage increase. I guess what I'm asking is whether or not I need to Do anything else in the bios to run @3.3ghz and 1600 Mhz? Once I'm sure I'm stable @ Stock settings and 1600 Ram, I would like to see a finished overclock of a constant 3.6-3.8 Ghz on the 1100t, at least until I upgrade my cooling loop.


----------



## NBrock

Just ordered the FX-8120. Figured I would go with that rather than the 8150 for two reasons; Cant find the 8150 anywhere and the 8120 is less money. From what I saw on New Egg they hit 4+ Ghz on air cooling with the 8120 overclocked not just the turbo core setting. I'm looking forward to the better multitasking and hopefully better gaming performance then my PII x4 955 @ 3.61ghz. I will give you an update when its installed.


----------



## 10 Gauge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NBrock;15297299*
> Just ordered the FX-8120. Figured I would go with that rather than the 8150 for two reasons; Cant find the 8150 anywhere and the 8120 is less money. From what I saw on New Egg they hit 4+ Ghz on air cooling with the 8120 overclocked not just the turbo core setting. I'm looking forward to the better multitasking and hopefully better gaming performance then my PII x4 955 @ 3.61ghz. I will give you an update when its installed.


Let us know how it goes. I'm definitely eyeballing an 8150 when they are in stock. It's going to depend on what the general consensus is once some real enthusiasts have the chips and give us reviews on their luck with overclocking and performance increases over the X6 lineup.


----------



## metarox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10 Gauge;15298230*
> Let us know how it goes. I'm definitely eyeballing an 8150 when they are in stock. It's going to depend on what the general consensus is once some real enthusiasts have the chips and give us reviews on their luck with overclocking and performance increases over the X6 lineup.


I'll be waiting for the 8170 in Q1 2012 for a future CX stepping to see if they don't resolve some undisclosed bugs a la Phenom when they launched. I'll let you guys beta test this =]


----------



## djriful

Is it true that I heard Sabertooth performance slightly better than Crosshair V but less features and less slots?

The $185 price tag is attractive to me if the Bulldozer get fixed up with FX-8170 instead FX-8150.


----------



## 10 Gauge

Sabertooth is the pure performance board, Crosshair is ultra-high performance + some gimmicky features (that's my humble opinion).


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10 Gauge;15299191*
> Sabertooth is the pure performance board, Crosshair is ultra-high performance + some gimmicky features (that's my humble opinion).


haha.... wait... I'm not quite get between pure and ultra-high definition here...

Both board are top performer. Are you saying that Sabertooth is like buying a Maclaren GT and Crosshair V is more like Ferrari with good looking features style?


----------



## 10 Gauge

Yeah something like that, lol!


----------



## skull7squisher4

My dual radeon hd 6850 s in crossfire slow way down using amd engine cc any one else have this problem?
also it limits my cpu (965 x4 be) down to 3.8 where in bios itll show a higher like 4.1 or where I shoot for. unless I play with the bios settings, not sure which alows it to exed the 3.8 aDd mE

I went from a gigabyte 333 board to this one and its taking alot to get used to
BTW the asus auto oc just gives me a bsod and a reboot


----------



## NBrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metarox;15298721*
> I'll be waiting for the 8170 in Q1 2012 for a future CX stepping to see if they don't resolve some undisclosed bugs a la Phenom when they launched. I'll let you guys beta test this =]


Yeah I was reading about issues, especially with single threaded apps. I'm willing to "beta" test this because its so inexpensive and by the time something bigger and better comes out tax returns should be hitting the bank accounts








To me as long as it does better in games then the 955 I have I will be happy. The multitasking performance is mainly looking forward to.


----------



## The Zahir

Ok, I have a strange problem. I haven't officially joined yet (just built my rig a few days ago, verification picture below) but I have been lurking this thread for tips on overclocking my 1100t BE. This is my first build and first overclock and I don't have a clue what lots of the features on this board do so I ended up here.

Here's the issue:

As per some OC guides I read on this forum and others, I had turned off most things in BIOS that I believed I wasn't using and with multiplier and a tiny bump to frequency I thought I had what was a fairly stable 4.0Ghz clock (an hour in P95, I know now from reading this thread that maybe P95 isn't the best test...), but I thought that I would be able to push it further with some tweaks. In this thread I saw someone saying the auto OC is actually pretty good and suggest pushing the CPU Load Line Calibration and CPU/NB Load Line Calibration to "Extreme" and then letting the auto do it's thing. So I made sure my CMOS profile was saved and I did just that. On reboot it wouldn't POST. Second reboot worked and the POST screen read well over 4.5Ghz (JESUS, I said) but froze up as soon as I entered BIOS. Subsequent reboots wouldn't POST. So I unplugged the power to let the CPU Parameter Recall work its magic and got back into BIOS at 3.3 stock clocks and pushed the CPU Load Line Calibration down one notch to "Very High" and the CPU/NB Load Line Calibration down to "High" and set the auto OC again. This time POST screen read 4.3ish and I thought to let it go on to windows. When I tried to log in I got BSOD. One more go was the same, BSOD at login. Power off, unplug, CPU Parameter Recall again, this time POST screen read like 900Mhz on the CPU. In BIOS I went to the advanced options tab and got this:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/TdbNjTOMJ67srDPGdaFJTA?feat=directlink

With that error I wasn't able to do anything at all. Clicking OK immediately brought the same message up again. I couldn't even exit properly, I manually reset and went back in to BIOS, looked for my CMOS profiles and they're all gone. Tried the AI Tweaker tab again and the same error came up. Couldn't do anything. Powered off, and cleared CMOS with the little breaker thing. On boot, it read fine, 3.3 stock clocks, and in BIOS it was ok, again until I clicked on AI Tweaker and I got the same error message. Current speed read 3300ish Mhz, but target speed was back down to 600-900Mhz with the ridiculously low multiplier (2.5 or whatever, I didn't think to take a screen shot of it this time). Manual reset and the same again. I realized that by spamming the enter key and scrolling down on my mouse wheel I could move to different fields and by spamming enter and a number or the letter a I could get fields back to normal or Auto parameters. Upon reaching the bottom of the menu I saw that voltages were way off, just all over the place and after getting them all set to auto the error message went away. "Great" I thought, but as soon as I scrolled up past the voltage section I got the error message again. I spam-scrolled back down, the message went away and I saved changes and rebooted. But any time I am in AI Tweaker tab now I get this error message unless I am scrolled all the way down to the voltage section. This is what it looks like:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ZKcBDcqtvBAhGizmVIWOVw?feat=directlink

The computer boots fine and goes into windows swimmingly and CPUz doesn't show any abnormalities (as far as I can tell), but my AI Tweaker is effectively disabled.

Has anyone seen anything like this and does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix it?

The system seems to be running fine (I'm posting this reply on it) but I don't know if there's still something messed up that might be doing some damage. And it's also a thorn in my side to drop back down to 3.3ghz from running 4.0.

Verification pic:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/efx-2yaMH2-3gUz4XTE9Pg?feat=directlink


----------



## The Zahir

Hmm, no pictures posted...sorry for my noobness.

Verification:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/efx-2yaMH2-3gUz4XTE9Pg?feat=directlink

BIOS 1:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/TdbNjTOMJ67srDPGdaFJTA?feat=directlink

BIOS2:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ZKcBDcqtvBAhGizmVIWOVw?feat=directlink


----------



## SBN1977

Not sure if anyone else had noticed this yet but, SABERTOOTH 990FX 0810 Beta BIOS
Update AMD CPU Firmware. Seams like it maybe a agesa code update


----------



## Vebbomania

Hi Folks.

Come from the cold north, Norway to be more precisely. Been running an intel rig since 2006. I had already decided to jump on the AMD/Bulldozer thing before the review's (not that i care either) I'm sure the FX-8150 cpu will fare well with my use anyway... So here i am with a nearly complete setup, just missing that vital part _the CPU_.

I built a rig for my son a couple a years ago and it has an Athlon II 7750 BE chip AM2+, quick question, will that proc run on Sabertooth 990FX?

And hey, guess I'll be member in AMD Sabertooth owners club - Cheers

Vebbo


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vebbomania;15310944*
> Hi Folks.
> 
> Come from the cold north, Norway to be more precisely. Been running an intel rig since 2006. I had already decided to jump on the AMD/Bulldozer thing before the review's (not that i care either) I'm sure the FX-8150 cpu will fare well with my use anyway... So here i am with a nearly complete setup, just missing that vital part _the CPU_.
> 
> I built a rig for my son a couple a years ago and it has an Athlon II 7750 BE chip AM2+, quick question, will that proc run on Sabertooth 990FX?
> 
> And hey, guess I'll be member in AMD Sabertooth owners club - Cheers
> 
> Vebbo


It should work, as it has a DDR3 mem controller if I'm not mistaken, if it does, it will work fine
EDIT: yes i checked it has a ddr3 mem controller and should work without a hitch

Sent from my EVO 4G using Tapatalk


----------



## Vebbomania

thanks for replying Butterz.

Maybe i should try it then... It looks that it will take a week to get new cpu, the date just indicates 21 October.


----------



## Jiggy23

hey guys new to the form and just got my sabertooth ill post some pics and would like to chat with some people about oc'ing my cpu with asus suite II

cheers


----------



## sequoia464

My sabertooth will unlock my P II 555X2's extra cores and overclock it without any issues, it runs perfectly.

Recently picked up a 960T Zosma - It is a 4 core Thuban in case you aren't familiar with it.

1. The board will not unlock the extra cores - it will not even boot into the Bios if I enable core unlocker.

2. I can overclock, but even with a mild overclock the board occasionally will freeze in windows. It will run prime95 all day long, but as soon as it goes in to sleep mode - which I dont think it should be doing with prime running - it will not come out of sleep mode.

Any Ideas??


----------



## mmstick

I just got one of these yesterday along with a FX-8120 but it was sadly DOA. Apparently the fancy certificate of reliability wasn't worth the paper it's written on. Currently doing an RMA and hope the second board isn't DOA and I get a refund.


----------



## sequoia464

Just wondering if there has been any feedback from anyone on this bios yet as the release notes aren't very detailed.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmstick;15319653*
> I just got one of these yesterday along with a FX-8120 but it was sadly DOA. Apparently the fancy certificate of reliability wasn't worth the paper it's written on. Currently doing an RMA and hope the second board isn't DOA and I get a refund.


you do know that you need to flash this board with a chip other than BD to get that 8120 to even post! the board will not work with out the new BD bios with that 8120 this is confirmed


----------



## raisethe3

Funny because I thought with the "AM3+" it should work right away?









But thanks for the heads up though. I am still with my Phenom II x2 though.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;15324912*
> you do know that you need to flash this board with a chip other than BD to get that 8120 to even post! the board will not work with out the new BD bios with that 8120 this is confirmed


----------



## BMfan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vebbomania;15310944*
> Hi Folks.
> 
> I built a rig for my son a couple a years ago and it has an Athlon II 7750 BE chip AM2+, quick question, will that proc run on Sabertooth 990FX?


I'm sorry to say the Athlon x2 7750BE wont work on any board with DDR3 ram because it doesn't have a ddr3 memory controller.The only Athlon cpu's that will work are the ones that only have 3 numbers in their title.


----------



## The Zahir

Ah, I think I did this incorrectly the first time.

ADD ME (please)

This was before the overclock, but the MB is verified:


(Also, this must be a stupid question, but can anyone tell me how to embed images in a post? Every time I paste the link into the Insert Image box nothing at all shows up in the post...)

Verification pic:


----------



## The Zahir

For anyone who was interested in the BIOS issue I was having that my original post talked about, here's an update:

By spamming enter I was able to navigate down to Memory Frequency and some PCIe setting and while they appeared to be set to "Auto", when they were selected they would show some outlandish readings. With enough spamming I was able to set them back at normal levels and I can now use my AI Tweaker tab and the rest of the BIOS with no problem!









Back to OC'ing now hovering just below 4.2 GHz but having some stability issues. Aida 64 blue screens after a couple of hours.

Can anyone explain how to raise the CPU voltage in these BIOS? I know there's Manual and Offset modes, but I don't understand well either of them. Which should I be using?









I've also read conflicting reports about leaving Spread Spectrum on or turning it off. What have you guys had success with?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Zahir;15336680*
> 
> (Also, this must be a stupid question, but can anyone tell me how to embed images in a post? Every time I paste the link into the Insert Image box nothing at all shows up in the post...)
> 
> Verification pic:


in order to insert a pic you must enter the permalink in between the following


PHP:


[IMG alt="php] and[php]"]%5B/php%5D%20and%5Bphp%5D[/IMG]

 so it will look like this


PHP:


[IMG]picturesURL[/IMG]


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Zahir*


For anyone who was interested in the BIOS issue I was having that my original post talked about, here's an update:

By spamming enter I was able to navigate down to Memory Frequency and some PCIe setting and while they appeared to be set to "Auto", when they were selected they would show some outlandish readings. With enough spamming I was able to set them back at normal levels and I can now use my AI Tweaker tab and the rest of the BIOS with no problem!









Back to OC'ing now hovering just below 4.2 GHz but having some stability issues. Aida 64 blue screens after a couple of hours.

Can anyone explain how to raise the CPU voltage in these BIOS? I know there's Manual and Offset modes, but I don't understand well either of them. Which should I be using?









I've also read conflicting reports about leaving Spread Spectrum on or turning it off. What have you guys had success with?



sorry for the late response, I use only manual volt setting I hate the off set one just me maybe! I also would say to turn off spread spec on everything that says it! I have never got any luck pushing past 1ghz overclock with it on

Plus dont use the AI suite to overclock do it in bios the AI suite kinda well sucks IMHO


----------



## Vebbomania

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


you do know that you need to flash this board with a chip other than BD to get that 8120 to even post! the board will not work with out the new BD bios with that 8120 this is confirmed


Ooops, does that also include the 8150... if so im fcuked







Grrr.. need to get a compatible chip if this is true...

Thanks for the update on info about the 7750BE BMfan!


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vebbomania;15340751*
> Ooops, does that also include the 8150... if so im fcuked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grrr.. need to get a compatible chip if this is true...
> 
> Thanks for the update on info about the 7750BE BMfan!


yes that is the case you need to have the bios flashed to bulldozer bios for anyone of them to work it seems so you mite not have a DOA just the bios problem

EDIT: to bad you live so far I would just loan you my chip to flash it, you mite want to ether find a local PC shop if you have any or a friend with a AM3 chip just to flash it even buying a cheap chip mite work I have seen some chips in the 30usd range, this happened with the P II x6's as well when they first came out


----------



## Serper

Please advise, people with experience overclocking DDR3 1600 memory

Anyone have a similar setup with Asus Sabertooth 990FX, AMD Phenom II x6 1100T, Mushkin Enhanced DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) 2x4G?

I need advice on overclocking this setup, I'm sure this beast could handle 4+ Ghz...

Thanks,

-serper


----------



## Belander87

Add me!
Verification via CPU-Z
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2050586
CPU Phenom II 1100T OC'd 4.0Ghz


----------



## Keyan

HELP!

Recently I've been hearing these poping noises while folding, I was always attributing it to plastic expansion due to the heat, but today I was playing Metro2033 and it crashed, and now I can't load any 3d games in SLI. Not even heaven benchmark. (if i yank a card and run a single i can load benchmarks fine) Thought one of my GPUs died so i took my side panel off to inspect everything and found this










specifically, the open-air coil labeled 4R7.

I've inspected high-res OEM pictures of that unit and it looks like its supposed to be attached to the base and not snapped off like that.

can anyone else confirm for me that it is infact broken? im thinking of RMA but need to be sure.

EDIT: come to think of it, i'd also, from time to time, get an AI Suite II error alert in the corner of my screen saying my +5v is at 3.03v. but checking the numbers when i get the warnings would show it at ~5v. I wonder if its related at all.


----------



## Th3Gatekeep3r

My AI Suite will give me an alert now and then of something completely wacky, like 17v on the 3.3v line -- I chalked it up to glitches. but there is no telling if your problems are related. It really wouldnt surprise me.

Any idea how it happened? I've scratched teh board a bit back there because of my case's expansion slot clips not letting go of my gpus (which I have since removed...)


----------



## Keyan

that coil is right next to the first pci-e slot.

my guess is either it came that way out of the box...

or i knicked it when installing my graphics card one day and it snapped. but i dont remember doing it.


----------



## Keyan

ok so:

removed 1 gpu, ran just a single card. heaven loads. metro loads. no crashing.

tried the other gpu, same.

i pushed the coil back into position and hooked everything back up in SLI.

....now everything works again.

i'm probably going to RMA it, just to be safe. Is that something that could be warrantied or will they screw me over and call it user damage? I bought this thing because of its 5 year TUF warranty


----------



## NBrock

Just FYI anyone upgrading to the new FX CPU...Turn OFF Turbo Core. I found during stress test and gaming that the turbo core switches randomly and continues to switch different cores to different speeds (4 at a time). I noticed this while running prime 95 and cpuz and the Asus Ai suit said my cpu was going from 2.8 to 4.1 ghz off and on. I noticed that it was showing the speed for core 0 so i decided to watch the others... it was going from 2.8 to 4.0ghz four cores at a time and randomly switching them. Once I turned the turbo core off Everything is running at a steady 4.0ghz and seem MUCH MUCH faster. I hope I explained this well enough. ex ( cpu 0=2.8,1=2.8,2=2.8,3=2.8,4=4.0,5=4.0,6=4.0,7=4.0) then just a few seconds later it would read (cpu 0=4.0,1=4.0,2=2.8,3=4.0,4=2.8,5=4.0,6=2.8,7=4.0) It would alternate speeds not always in the same pattern.

Just ran 3d mark 06 with turbo core on and with turbo core off. with turbo core on the score was 2,000 points lower than with it off. The same settings were used both times (only change was turbo core setting).


----------



## NBrock

Also out of the box my FX-8120 runs at 3.4 ghz not 3.1 and the "name" in cpuz shows it as AMD FX-8130P just some interesting info.


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Keyan*


HELP!

Recently I've been hearing these poping noises while folding, I was always attributing it to plastic expansion due to the heat, but today I was playing Metro2033 and it crashed, and now I can't load any 3d games in SLI. Not even heaven benchmark. (if i yank a card and run a single i can load benchmarks fine) Thought one of my GPUs died so i took my side panel off to inspect everything and found this

specifically, the open-air coil labeled 4R7.

I've inspected high-res OEM pictures of that unit and it looks like its supposed to be attached to the base and not snapped off like that.

can anyone else confirm for me that it is infact broken? im thinking of RMA but need to be sure.

EDIT: come to think of it, i'd also, from time to time, get an AI Suite II error alert in the corner of my screen saying my +5v is at 3.03v. but checking the numbers when i get the warnings would show it at ~5v. I wonder if its related at all.


Yep, that is broken. It is a coil. Sometimes they squeal when loose, never heard of clicking, but never saw one broken like that. RMA....


----------



## Serper

Please advise, people with experience overclocking DDR3 1600 memory

Anyone have a similar setup with Asus Sabertooth 990FX, AMD Phenom II x6 1100T, Mushkin Enhanced DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) 2x4G?

I need advice on overclocking this setup, I'm sure this beast could handle 4+ Ghz...

Thanks,

-serper


----------



## SkunkBudz

Hi everyone! Just joined the forum,and just finished my first build!! I am not very experianced with puters,but I dove right in and managed to get a 4.0 clock (ya I stole someone's settings) that seems stable.I'm hoping you will let me in this club so I can learn the right way,you guys got lots of good info and mentors in here! PLEASE ADD ME!!


View attachment 234479


View attachment 234480


----------



## nani17

Just got this board today ADD ME. Oh question about it how do i reduce the bios time. I had an option on my old asus board to reduced the time for the "press del key". at default it stayed up for 10sec but i was able to reduced it to 3secs i cant find that option on this board.









Just noticed my post was the 990th lol


----------



## Vebbomania

Well i had to dig up 45 usd for a used AMD Athion II X2 250 3GHz AM3 here in Norway but im a happy camper dude so im just looking forward to get this new AMD rig up'n'running







Gonna pick it up tonight.

When im at it would it cause any challenges if i install win7 with this cpu and switch it when the FX-8150 arrive?


----------



## MirceaForce

Hello

I have seen that many if you have this cpu 955 BE and I want to set my memory to 1866...I tried many settings but with no luck....i have enabled the dock and set the memory profile but I can't get it stable

please can you help me with some bios settings

AMD Phenom II x4 3.2 GHZ 955 Black Edition (AM3 cpu)
Motherboard Sabertooth 990FX (0705 bios)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 1866 CL 9 dual channel kit 4gbx2(8GB)-CMZ8GX3M2A1866C9
SSD: OCZ Agility 3 Sata III 60GB os - HDD 1tb Caviar Black sata III
Power supply : Sirtec High power 600W
Video Card : Nvidia EVGA GTX 460 OC
Case: Cooler Master Haf 932
Cpu cooler: stock cooler


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MirceaForce;15365897*
> Hello
> 
> I have seen that many if you have this cpu 955 BE and I want to set my memory to 1866...I tried many settings but with no luck....i have enabled the dock and set the memory profile but I can't get it stable
> 
> please can you help me with some bios settings
> 
> AMD Phenom II x4 3.2 GHZ 955 Black Edition (AM3 cpu)
> Motherboard Sabertooth 990FX (0705 bios)
> Memory: Corsair Vengeance 1866 CL 9 dual channel kit 4gbx2(8GB)-CMZ8GX3M2A1866C9
> SSD: OCZ Agility 3 Sata III 60GB os - HDD 1tb Caviar Black sata III
> Power supply : Sirtec High power 600W
> Video Card : Nvidia EVGA GTX 460 OC
> Case: Cooler Master Haf 932
> Cpu cooler: stock cooler


The AMD IMC will not run 1866...you can with the e0 Thurbans but not c3 PhenomII's.
Only BD runs 1866 natively.


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MirceaForce;15365897*
> Hello
> 
> I have seen that many if you have this cpu 955 BE and I want to set my memory to 1866...I tried many settings but with no luck....i have enabled the dock and set the memory profile but I can't get it stable
> 
> please can you help me with some bios settings
> 
> AMD Phenom II x4 3.2 GHZ 955 Black Edition (AM3 cpu)
> Motherboard Sabertooth 990FX (0705 bios)
> Memory: Corsair Vengeance 1866 CL 9 dual channel kit 4gbx2(8GB)-CMZ8GX3M2A1866C9
> SSD: OCZ Agility 3 Sata III 60GB os - HDD 1tb Caviar Black sata III
> Power supply : Sirtec High power 600W
> Video Card : Nvidia EVGA GTX 460 OC
> Case: Cooler Master Haf 932
> Cpu cooler: stock cooler


I selected D.O.C.P. and am running my corsair dominator gt 1866 memory at 1866 with my 1100T.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker;15368673*
> I selected D.O.C.P. and am running my corsair dominator gt 1866 memory at 1866 with my 1100T.


Different IMC revision to his PII


----------



## haziqk10

Mine will arrive tomorrow. How is the performance with amd fx processor??


----------



## NBrock

Go back a page or so and read my post about the FX cpu and turbo core. Turn turbo core OFF !! It was worth another 4k points in 3D Mark 06.


----------



## cook

I have been telling everyone about this because it caused me some frustration at first, All you guys have likely figured it out by now, but for those who are just now getting the board, this should help you get up and running without frustration.

*If you are not running ECC ram*, you have to disable the feature, *which by default is enabled* in the BIOS.

Here is how.
Go to the advanced tab









Go to the NorthBridge configuration:










Once in there go to memory configuration and disable Memory ecc mode, unless you are running ecc memory. It will cause random shutdowns without ecc ram.








Quote:


> ECC RAM can recover from small errors in bits, by utilizing parity bits. Since servers are a shared resource where up-time and reliability are important, ECC RAM is generally used with only a modest difference in price. ECC RAM is also used in CAD/CAM workstations were small bit errors could cause calculation mistakes which become more significant problems when a design goes to manufacturing


Ecc Ram is usually found in servers, but without the extra memory module that ecc ram has, normal ram cannot function in ECC mode.

ECC Ram *9 memory modules*:








_*older generations of ecc ram had often had extra error correction chips located in the middle of the 5/4 divide, and some memory modules had more than just 9, but it is usually a multiple of 8 for non ECC and 9 for ECC._

Non ECC Ram *8 memory modules*:









If you look at the SPD tab of CPU-Z under correction it will tell you if you have ECC, if not it will say none or be greyed out.


----------



## Keyan

^ so how do i know if i have ECC ram...?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NBrock;15370078*
> Go back a page or so and read my post about the FX cpu and turbo core. Turn turbo core OFF !! It was worth another 4k points in 3D Mark 06.


I just seen your review at newegg lol, do you have any good news about your chip yet? it really seems that no one is posting any reviews they just tell us what the scores are but no screen shots

PLEASE anyone that has the 81** chip I don't care which POST A BENCH screen shot! There are many on the fence and you could relay help allot of people save or spend money to the right area


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Keyan*


^ so how do i know if i have ECC ram...?


um you would know if you bought ecc ram!! it is expensive!!! about double or more than the avg ram chip not to mention most say server ram


----------



## Keyan

thats what i thought, but i wanted to make sure. pc user in training


----------



## NBrock

Here is my pass mark cpu score for the AMD FX-8120 @ 4ghz.
My overall CPU score was 8655. You can see the score and my cpuz in the attachment.
Here is the link to a list of cpus with scores in the same range. 
http://www.cpubenchmark.net/high_end_cpus.html


----------



## NBrock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


I just seen your review at newegg lol, do you have any good news about your chip yet? it really seems that no one is posting any reviews they just tell us what the scores are but no screen shots

PLEASE anyone that has the 81** chip I don't care which POST A BENCH screen shot! There are many on the fence and you could relay help allot of people save or spend money to the right area


I love the 8120. I love that the multitasking ability and that it seems a bit better in games. The most noticeable gain is that I can have tons of stuff open while playing games and it doesn't slow down at all. My average frame rates seem to have bumped up about 5-15fps (some times more in other games). Alt tabbing between games and programs is super fast.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NBrock*


Here is my pass mark cpu score for the AMD FX-8120 @ 4ghz.
My overall CPU score was 8655. You can see the score and my cpuz in the attachment.
Here is the link to a list of cpus with scores in the same range. 
http://www.cpubenchmark.net/high_end_cpus.html


so oc'ed to 4ghz scored about the same as the 8150? is that what i am seeing


----------



## AccellGarage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NBrock*


Here is my pass mark cpu score for the AMD FX-8120 @ 4ghz.
My overall CPU score was 8655. You can see the score and my cpuz in the attachment.
Here is the link to a list of cpus with scores in the same range. 
http://www.cpubenchmark.net/high_end_cpus.html


Well Well Well ... So you forgot, Add baseline online then picked up i7 2600K and 2500K or 8150 FX, see comparison best of bench


----------



## SkunkBudz

Forgive my ignorance,but do the bios settings Cook posted only pertain to 1800 and 2000, or are they required for 1600 also?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SkunkBudz*


Forgive my ignorance,but do the bios settings Cook posted only pertain to 1800 and 2000, or are they required for 1600 also?


as far as the ecc most everyone of us has non-ecc memory so if that is what you are talking about yes he left out some things but those settings are important as well as turn off memory hole remapping will add to stability it will show up in bios as less memory but still is there in windows if you search you can read what it does but basically it fools the system which can cause memory problems


----------



## SkunkBudz

Thanks,I had a poor Maxxmem score so I figured something wasn't set up correctly.


----------



## NBrock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


so oc'ed to 4ghz scored about the same as the 8150? is that what i am seeing


Yeah but to get the 4ghz all I did was change the multiplier (stock voltage). Mine also came outta the box @ 3.4ghz not 3.1ghz.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NBrock*


Yeah but to get the 4ghz all I did was change the multiplier (stock voltage). Mine also came outta the box @ 3.4ghz not 3.1ghz.


thats messed up lol it came out 3.4? you sure it was not auto oc'ing in bios?


----------



## NBrock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


thats messed up lol it came out 3.4? you sure it was not auto oc'ing in bios?


yeah I checked everything like a million times. Also in CPUz under name it says AMD FX-8130P and under Specification it says AMD FX-8120.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NBrock*


yeah I checked everything like a million times. Also in CPUz under name it says AMD FX-8130P and under Specification it says AMD FX-8120.


well cpu-z they all say 8130p even the 50 does that will get fixed on the next release of cpu-z but that is funny how they clocked your 8120 to the 8140 specs when it has not even been released, I also can't belive they are not going to have the 8150 in stock till December and the second gen will be out by Feb. lol how is that going to work for sales lol! I have waited almost a year for this and now two more months till in stock again this is nuts


----------



## NBrock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


well cpu-z they all say 8130p even the 50 does that will get fixed on the next release of cpu-z but that is funny how they clocked your 8120 to the 8140 specs when it has not even been released, I also can't belive they are not going to have the 8150 in stock till December and the second gen will be out by Feb. lol how is that going to work for sales lol! I have waited almost a year for this and now two more months till in stock again this is nuts


Ah didn't know that about the CPU-Z thing. it is odd though how mine was clocked 3.4ghz. I did check everything to make sure I wasn't crazy.

Question for everyone for temps. Should I go by what the board says for cpu temps or what the cores say they are running at? ex: under full load (prime 95) the cores say they are at 54*c and the board says the cpu is 64*c.


----------



## Belander87

Go by the actual core temp NBrock. ALUCARDVPR has a great guide about it here


----------



## haziqk10

add me please

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2055913


----------



## Bradford1040

Well I got a FX-8150 and it will be here tomorrow before 3pm est and I will be installing it asap lol, so I will post sceenies of benchmarks which has been like pulling teeth to get some to do









I also will have benchmark scores of my current cpu and sig speeds to compare with and in the bulldozer owners thread I offered to clock my cpu to lower spec along with all other settings to give anyone that would like a example of what there system would do if upgraded.

I don't understand why no one else was offering this







I think that these forums only work if we help one another! So my offer stands in this thread even more as we all have the 990fx sabertooth so the out come will be more alike


----------



## NBrock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Belander87*


Go by the actual core temp NBrock. ALUCARDVPR has a great guide about it here


Very nice thank you.


----------



## mmstick

Okay, I got my replacement Sabertooth and I am now running at 4.8GHz with my FX 8120 with a cheap air cooler. First try overclock and it is stable. However, I keep having a certain issue with my RAM. In my previous 870G motherboard my 16GB kit of 1600Mhz RAM would report as 16GB in BIOS and Windows, yet it is being reported as 12GB with the sabertooth. What is odd is that there is an issue with the seating, the BIOS and Speccy (Speccy even says I have 16GB total RAM) state that I have four 4GB chips installed, yet only 12GB of it is usable. Any ideas?


----------



## cook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Keyan*


^ so how do i know if i have ECC ram...?


Extra memory module, Generally memory has some multiple of 8 modules. Some have 8 on each side, but ECC will have 9. Here is an example.

ECC Ram:









Non ECC Ram:









If you look at the SPD tab of CPU-Z under correction it will tell you if you have ECC, if not it will say none or be greyed out.


----------



## mmstick

After running a passmark test, I ended up with a score of 11,056 with my 8 core overclocked on this sabertooth 990fx at 4.7GHz. It is double that of my Phenom II X6 overclocked to 3.8GHz, yet I also noticed that the benchmark only used 60% of all 8 cores, rather than 100% like it does with my X6. Anyways, Im finding that my results arent matching up with other leading reviews, as my FX 8120 scores 33-50, even 100% higher in all the passmark benches. Will try other benchmark programs soon.


----------



## Tweeky

Some of my 8150 runs
For me temp is a problem

http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/946327-official-asus-crosshair-v-formula-990fx-250.html#post15344012

http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/946327-official-asus-crosshair-v-formula-990fx-253.html#post15377282


----------



## NBrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmstick;15386153*
> After running a passmark test, I ended up with a score of 11,056 with my 8 core overclocked on this sabertooth 990fx at 4.7GHz. It is double that of my Phenom II X6 overclocked to 3.8GHz, yet I also noticed that the benchmark only used 60% of all 8 cores, rather than 100% like it does with my X6. Anyways, Im finding that my results arent matching up with other leading reviews, as my FX 8120 scores 33-50, even 100% higher in all the passmark benches. Will try other benchmark programs soon.


Would you be willing to share your settings on how you got it to run 4.7 ghz







PLEASE!!!!


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## Bradford1040

FX-8150 just got here about 11am and going to shut down soon and install will be doing a flush on water loop at the same time so will take some time and mite do some rewiring even though my cable management is pretty good it can always get better lol!

Wish me luck on Bios update and install, there is always something that goes wrong and I only hope it is minor! I will be posting scores after I restart the first screenies will be at stock speeds and so on, so I will post as I go

PS *Congrats Butterz on thread becoming Official*


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;15396133*
> FX-8150 just got here about 11am and going to shut down soon and install will be doing a flush on water loop at the same time so will take some time and mite do some rewiring even though my cable management is pretty good it can always get better lol!
> 
> Wish me luck on Bios update and install, there is always something that goes wrong and I only hope it is minor! I will be posting scores after I restart the first screenies will be at stock speeds and so on, so I will post as I go
> 
> PS *Congrats Butterz on thread becoming Official*


*Good Luck*

I sure need a water loop too


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky;15396990*
> *Good Luck*
> 
> I sure need a water loop too


Thank you!!

PS: I am so done with that Bulldozer club! That thread sucks!!!!!! I swear it is about the least helpful thread and advise no one to post or take any advise from there with out asking in here first if it makes sense


----------



## pinkfloyd48

cant seem to get thiis ram to run at 1600 any Ideas


----------



## 66racer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


FX-8150 just got here about 11am and going to shut down soon and install will be doing a flush on water loop at the same time so will take some time and mite do some rewiring even though my cable management is pretty good it can always get better lol!

Wish me luck on Bios update and install, there is always something that goes wrong and I only hope it is minor! I will be posting scores after I restart the first screenies will be at stock speeds and so on, so I will post as I go

PS *Congrats Butterz on thread becoming Official *


Cant wait to see the results!


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bradford1040*


thank you!!

Ps: I am so done with that bulldozer club! That thread sucks!!!!!! I swear it is about the least helpful thread and advise no one to post or take any advise from there with out asking in here first if it makes sense


10 4

Please tell me about your water loop
I was look at prices for parts for water loop
The 8150 overclocked uses a lot watts and my air cooler can not get the job done
I am only able to go up to 1.28 volts with my air cooler
Thanks


----------



## Tweeky

Thermaltake power supply calculator to calculate power for a bulldozer

http://www.thermaltake.outervision.com/Power


----------



## NBrock

The heat my 8120 puts out is ridiculous. I need a better water cooling setup. @ 4.515 Ghz I hit 62*c under prime 95. That is at 1.38 volts. Looks like I am going to need to pick up a second radiator if I want to hit 4.75 or 5ghz lol.


----------



## 66racer

Yeah its crazy how fast that thing gets up in heat. When all 8 cores kick in it will spike too if your not carefull, Brad seems to have a sweet cooling loop so I cant wait what he takes it to


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pinkfloyd48*


cant seem to get thiis ram to run at 1600 any Ideas



I can't get my Kingston KHX to run at 1600 either. If I change any settings at all in the bios, even with the auto overclock, my board gets unstable - have to O.C. with the Overdrive utility because the bios O.C. - even a mild one, will crash the system.

I'm using a Zosma - not on ASUS's list, don't know if that is the issue.


----------



## NBrock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sequoia464*


I can't get my Kingston KHX to run at 1600 either. If I change any settings at all in the bios, even with the auto overclock, my board gets unstable - have to O.C. with the Overdrive utility because the bios O.C. - even a mild one, will crash the system.

I'm using a Zosma - not on ASUS's list, don't know if that is the issue.


I had a heck of a time trying to get my Hyper X to run at 1600 when I had my PII 955 x4. Once I switched to the FX-8120 all I had to do was pop it over to 1600 all other settings auto and it worked.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NBrock;15403714*
> I had a heck of a time trying to get my Hyper X to run at 1600 when I had my PII 955 x4. Once I switched to the FX-8120 all I had to do was pop it over to 1600 all other settings auto and it worked.


Its because the c3 IMC struggles with 1600..only the e0 IMC in the thurban can run 1600 easily.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pinkfloyd48;15399230*
> cant seem to get thiis ram to run at 1600 any Ideas


Put your ref clock to 240 and try it again. Set your other multipliers to suit.


----------



## Bradford1040

first one is the Bulldozer and second was my X4 970be plus I don't know who was reviewing this chip but I guess they don't know how to OC a AMD chip as this thing fly's I am getting scores that just blow my X4 away and the 2600k's in the 460 thread are behind me by many points in every test

I still have allot of tweaking to do but just wanted to give a clock to clock comparison plus I am having problems with a few games even launching Portal2 being one of them but fixed a few by reloading physx only


----------



## pinkfloyd48

Ok have another question. It seems AI suite is showing my temp at 30 while core temp is showing it at 20 any ideas?


----------



## haziqk10

am i included yet??


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE;15406160*
> Its because the c3 IMC struggles with 1600..only the e0 IMC in the thurban can run 1600 easily.


The Zosma is a Thuban - minus two cores. Shouldn't it run the 1600?


----------



## NBrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pinkfloyd48;15407383*
> Ok have another question. It seems AI suite is showing my temp at 30 while core temp is showing it at 20 any ideas?


Go back a few pages, someone explained this to me with a link. It wasnt too far back (late page 90s).


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sequoia464;15407720*
> The Zosma is a Thuban - minus two cores. Shouldn't it run the 1600?


Thats what i think i heard, that they just disable 2 cores which people have a good chance of unlocking
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pinkfloyd48;15407383*
> Ok have another question. It seems AI suite is showing my temp at 30 while core temp is showing it at 20 any ideas?


coretemp is what amd recommends using from what i read, AI suit reads the motherboard temp sensor for the socket which can be higher due to its placement. Also the temp sensor inside the cpu that coretemp reads wont be accurate till the 40c area, that is how AMD set it since idle temps arent that critical (assuming they arent crazy hot) and what matters is your load temps.


----------



## Bradford1040

just maxmem I am posting for a friend


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;15408446*
> just maxmem I am posting for a friend


Dam thats a high gb/s, what frequency did you have the cpu-nb and memory? Some people experience gains when going up on the ht link to 2700 from 2600 too, which I would have thought was the same as a phenom ii that we just leave alone


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer;15408494*
> Dam thats a high gb/s, what frequency did you have the cpu-nb and memory? Some people experience gains when going up on the ht link to 2700 from 2600 too, which I would have thought was the same as a phenom ii that we just leave alone


you can adjust it on the phenom as well, if you want I will help you get you x6 doing good as well there are things about oc'ing amd that most don't know. I am really not even pushing it yet still learning the walls, but I jumped many scores up on the 460 thread MANY I will have the top spot on 3dmark11 before the day is out

Plus the temps on this system so far have not got over 44c and that is at 4.8ghz and 2830cpu/nb with only 1.4v for cpu and 1.45 for cpu/nb

OOPS I see you have your X6 pretty good nice clocks if those are 24/7


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE;15406160*
> Its because the c3 IMC struggles with 1600..only the e0 IMC in the thurban can run 1600 easily.


my 955 rb c3 runs my ram at 1600 all [email protected] 9-9-9-24-1T 1.2v


----------



## Bradford1040

http://3dmark.com/3dm11/2053041

here is my 3dmark11 score i just did


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sequoia464;15407720*
> The Zosma is a Thuban - minus two cores. Shouldn't it run the 1600?


It should have the e0 IMC then,what does cpuz say?
You are correct,it should run 1600 with e0...


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;15408874*
> my 955 rb c3 runs my ram at 1600 all [email protected] 9-9-9-24-1T 1.2v


yeah I had my 970BE at 19**mhz on the ram and it was C3


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;15408874*
> my 955 rb c3 runs my ram at 1600 all [email protected] 9-9-9-24-1T 1.2v


Mine runs at 7-8-7-20-1t at 1600,its not impossible.....


----------



## sweffymo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;15408874*
> my 955 rb c3 runs my ram at 1600 all [email protected] 9-9-9-24-1T 1.2v


Heck, my 955 c2 is running 1800 8-9-8-24 easily...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;15408906*
> yeah I had my 970BE at 19**mhz on the ram and it was C3


Proof?
Not that i dont believe you,i want to see your timings.
Timings>Speed for AMD setups.

I want to see some validation of your claims.

EDIT: your all running 2 DIMMS? Ah....i was assuming your running 4...validation not needed.


----------



## Bradford1040

this was right before i pushed it over 1900mhz on the 970BE


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE;15408947*
> Proof?
> Not that i dont believe you,i want to see your timings.
> Timings>Speed for AMD setups.


dude ask anyone in this thread I will never post BS I only post stable scores not suicide runs and I am not a kid that needs to make him self feel more like a man lol I am 40 that wants to be a kid is more like it!

I am heading out for some lunch but will be back soon if you want more info, I have done allot of reading and research on OC'ing AMD's as I was a Intel guy before and knew nothing about them so had to learn everything


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;15408987*
> dude ask anyone in this thread I will never post BS I only post stable scores not suicide runs and I am not a kid that needs to make him self feel more like a man lol I am 40 that wants to be a kid is more like it!
> 
> I am heading out for some lunch but will be back soon if you want more info, I have done allot of reading and research on OC'ing AMD's as I was a Intel guy before and knew nothing about them so had to learn everything


I am 37 and see a LOT of BS on here,forgive me if i offended you.
I have been clocking AMD since Athlon 64 and have a 8150 on its way,Welcome to Team Green!


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE;15409025*
> I am 37 and see a LOT of BS on here,forgive me if i offended you.
> I have been clocking AMD since Athlon 64 and have a 8150 on its way,Welcome to Team Green!


no you did not offend me I was just letting you know there are some really straight forward people in this thread THC Butterz and myself kinda started this together but its his thread, I have been kinda not posting as much lately as I was at my limit on the last chip and been playing games allot more!

With this new 8150 I got will be playing again so posting from me will be back up to normal and will help anyone that needs it if I can help

I am kinda a joker so never think I am yelling or angry unless I say so(just fyi) nice to meet you btw and hope you enjoy the thread and your new 8150 when you get it (I am loving it so far)


----------



## Bradford1040

be back in a bit heading to lunch guys if you want any benchies think of what you want to see and I will try and do them when I get back from eating


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I haven't even unboxed my Sabertooth yet...Just sitting here....waiting.


----------



## sweffymo

I want to see [email protected] performance, but that takes a little while to set up, so if you don't feel like doing it I understand.


----------



## NBrock

Can you guys name any sites or good threads to read on over clocking newer AMD stuff. I haven't overclocked since the 939 Athlon 64 and my 939 Dual core Opteron. Right now I'm at 4.5ghz on my FX-8120 but the heat gets too high to let it run Prime 95 for too long. It seems stable under normal conditions and gaming. I just wanna know if there are any tricks to getting the higher clocks with lower voltage/heat. I'm at 1.33 volts, 200 fsb, 2400 nb/cpu, and 1.22 volts for the north bridge.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I start with the ref clock first and build from that....
However,FX doesnt seem to respond the same as PhenomII's....


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;15408763*
> you can adjust it on the phenom as well, if you want I will help you get you x6 doing good as well there are things about oc'ing amd that most don't know. I am really not even pushing it yet still learning the walls, but I jumped many scores up on the 460 thread MANY I will have the top spot on 3dmark11 before the day is out
> 
> Plus the temps on this system so far have not got over 44c and that is at 4.8ghz and 2830cpu/nb with only 1.4v for cpu and 1.45 for cpu/nb
> 
> OOPS I see you have your X6 pretty good nice clocks if those are 24/7


Nice dude, is that 44c on prime? or just benchmarking, with the 8150 @ 4.8ghz i was at 1.413v and llc would climb to 1.45v but my cpu-nb was at 26xx mhz and less voltage. Interesting results. Im think your cooling loop will make all the difference from my experience. Its a good cpu but to REALLY use it she needs great cooling, you have that, Im positive you will get 5.0Ghz 24/7 Im hoping you can get 5200mhz if your lucky.

Yeah 4244mhz is 24/7 prime stable @ 30xx cpunb (cpu 1.443v, load 1.5 and cpunb 1.33-1.35load). I have 4dimms of memory though, if I find some good 2000mhz+ 2x4GB I might upgrade.

I really wanted 4300+mhz but the few extra mhz isnt worth the extra voltage i think it will need. I can boot and do the internet on 4.4Ghz but instant crash on prime. It stays under 45c on prime and gaming 36-38c with ambient at 78-80F. If my prime temps stayed at 38-40c I might be able to get into the 4300mhz but not worth the $300+ just yet in cooling. Now that i am back on the 1100t i will be doing more fine tuning to get closer to 4300mhz, 4280s are kinda stable but not there yet.

Current cooling does good but FX8150 needed a lot more than I had.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *66racer*


Nice dude, is that 44c on prime? or just benchmarking, with the 8150 @ 4.8ghz i was at 1.413v and llc would climb to 1.45v but my cpu-nb was at 26xx mhz and less voltage. Interesting results. Im think your cooling loop will make all the difference from my experience. Its a good cpu but to REALLY use it she needs great cooling, you have that, Im positive you will get 5.0Ghz 24/7 Im hoping you can get 5200mhz if your lucky.

Yeah 4244mhz is 24/7 prime stable @ 30xx cpunb (cpu 1.443v, load 1.5 and cpunb 1.33-1.35load). I have 4dimms of memory though, if I find some good 2000mhz+ 2x4GB I might upgrade.

I really wanted 4300+mhz but the few extra mhz isnt worth the extra voltage i think it will need. I can boot and do the internet on 4.4Ghz but instant crash on prime. It stays under 45c on prime and gaming 36-38c with ambient at 78-80F. If my prime temps stayed at 38-40c I might be able to get into the 4300mhz but not worth the $300+ just yet in cooling. Now that i am back on the 1100t i will be doing more fine tuning to get closer to 4300mhz, 4280s are kinda stable but not there yet.

Current cooling does good but FX8150 needed a lot more than I had.



I really like my ram they are 2 4gb sticks which I was told buy them these were the best ram for AMD but that was a few months ago, but they were able to get to 1900 on the phenom X4 and the Kingston hyperx I had couldn't even get past 1600 by even 1mhz lol so I would highly recommend these sticks!

Plus I have done a few runs for the hell of it at 5.4ghz but backed it back down as I like going up slow and tweaking each thing not just the multi.

I am very happy with this I am really glad I got it from you! I am having fun again oc'ing is fun and a pain at the same time lol


----------



## NBrock

I got a question for you guys. I use 2 HIS 6790s (both single gpu cards) Is it possible to use the newer 69xx series with one of these cards as the slave card?


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NBrock;15409272*
> Can you guys name any sites or good threads to read on over clocking newer AMD stuff. I haven't overclocked since the 939 Athlon 64 and my 939 Dual core Opteron. Right now I'm at 4.5ghz on my FX-8120 but the heat gets too high to let it run Prime 95 for too long. It seems stable under normal conditions and gaming. I just wanna know if there are any tricks to getting the higher clocks with lower voltage/heat. I'm at 1.33 volts, 200 fsb, 2400 nb/cpu, and 1.22 volts for the north bridge.


http://www.asusrog.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?109-NON-ROG-AMD-Motherboards


----------



## 66racer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


I really like my ram they are 2 4gb sticks which I was told buy them these were the best ram for AMD but that was a few months ago, but they were able to get to 1900 on the phenom X4 and the Kingston hyperx I had couldn't even get past 1600 by even 1mhz lol so I would highly recommend these sticks!

Plus I have done a few runs for the hell of it at 5.4ghz but backed it back down as I like going up slow and tweaking each thing not just the multi.

I am very happy with this I am really glad I got it from you! I am having fun again oc'ing is fun and a pain at the same time lol


LOL 5.4Ghz!! Nice!! I know that was a good chip, I mentioned to you I was very conservative with voltages/settings not wanting to push things and play safe, and with that I was easily getting 4.8-4.9Ghz, most I went for on a quick run was 5.2, Gez I hope the 2nd one I get is that good too lol. I think once I go custom loop I will go for BD again, I have the psu for it and now with sli it will be worth it. I just should have gone sli first to begin with.

Maybe you can run wprime on 5.4Ghz? 32M test would be fine, make sure you set for 8 threads, its a quick bench, its what people gave BD grief over. I expect 5.6Ghz-5.8Ghz to match my 4244mhz 1100t. But honestly even at 4.7Ghz where I ran it I didnt see a loss for performance in gaming at all even though it was benching less. BD brings good changes to the table. There are pro's n con's to it. My advice to people is to get a great water loop and you will love the FX8xxx series. No antec/corsair will cut it, well maybe an h100 but cant see that taking you over 4.9Ghz


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sweffymo*


I want to see [email protected] performance, but that takes a little while to set up, so if you don't feel like doing it I understand.










No I don't mind at all as I fold anyway but I am still playing around with settings, the new bios had some settings that I needed to figure out to get my sli to work. Plus I have not found out how stable it is yet still playing around to find my fallback overclock(the stable but highest settings for lock in) I will do all that I am asked to do, to help others deside and cure the curiosity of some! I still say it is the best CPU I have owned yet!!!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NBrock*


Can you guys name any sites or good threads to read on over clocking newer AMD stuff. I haven't overclocked since the 939 Athlon 64 and my 939 Dual core Opteron. Right now I'm at 4.5ghz on my FX-8120 but the heat gets too high to let it run Prime 95 for too long. It seems stable under normal conditions and gaming. I just wanna know if there are any tricks to getting the higher clocks with lower voltage/heat. I'm at 1.33 volts, 200 fsb, 2400 nb/cpu, and 1.22 volts for the north bridge.


http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/...hlon,2161.html


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:



Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


It should have the e0 IMC then,what does cpuz say?
You are correct,it should run 1600 with e0...


Code Name = Thuban
Stepping = 0
Revision = PH-E0

So far ASUS doesn't support this processor, I can't unlock the cores, overclock or changer any settings without crashes. I have seen others with Gigabyte boards running the ZOSMA's without issue. Prior to this 960T I was using a 555X2 - unlocked no problems, overclocked, no problems, no crashes or issues with the memory.

The 960T overclocks fine with overdrive, but I can't change any settings other than the multiplier. Any changes in the bios lead to an almost immediate crash. Once it does, I have to clear the CMOS, and use a PS2 keyboard to recover as it won't recognize my USB keyboard.

Thinking of getting a Gigabyte board for the Zosma - or a 6100 for this board. I need something that works well with excel and other spreadsheet type programs, as well as a construction takeoff program that I run. From what I have read the 6100 should work out fairly good and be not quite as power hungry as the 8 cores.


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sequoia464*


Code Name = Thuban
Stepping = 0
Revision = PH-E0

So far ASUS doesn't support this processor, I can't unlock the cores, overclock or changer any settings without crashes. I have seen others with Gigabyte boards running the ZOSMA's without issue. Prior to this 960T I was using a 555X2 - unlocked no problems, overclocked, no problems, no crashes or issues with the memory.

The 960T overclocks fine with overdrive, but I can't change any settings other than the multiplier. Any changes in the bios lead to an almost immediate crash. Once it does, I have to clear the CMOS, and use a PS2 keyboard to recover as it won't recognize my USB keyboard.

Thinking of getting a Gigabyte board for the Zosma - or a 6100 for this board. I need something that works well with excel and other spreadsheet type programs, as well as a construction takeoff program that I run. From what I have read the 6100 should work out fairly good and be not quite as power hungry as the 8 cores.


if you have not done so update the bios there is a unlock bug in the old bios
http://support.asus.com/Download.asp...-ASUS-0705.zip


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tweeky*


if you have not done so update the bios there is a unlock bug in the old bios
http://support.asus.com/Download.asp...-ASUS-0705.zip


Already on 705. Not ready to try 810 yet, the notes don't tell us anything. I'm assuming it, 810, is just for BD - even though Bulldozers are not on the supported CPU list yet.


----------



## alancsalt

Just messing around..


----------



## raisethe3

^^^Holy moly! That's really nice! +1


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;15415960*
> Just messing around..


see and you wanted me to get my kids to draw that lol! I knew you would come up with something great, Thank you I am sure butterz will like it. If he does just let me know whats up on it ok


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sequoia464;15415605*
> even though Bulldozers are not on the supported CPU list yet.


SEE now that made me laugh so hard I almost peed myself! Supported list haha like there QVL for ram lol even though the board was released in 2011 the ram list is from 2008 and the cpu list well I have not even seen it to tell the truth but I am sure it is ether outdated or wouldn't include anything about bulldozer even though it was designed for it, hell they have been testing BD for about what six months and still don't have a bios that 100% works for it. I think that they really did not get Bulldozer till we did to tell the truth! otherwise why would they not have known about the major problems and fixed them WAY before release date. I mean to have a Beta Bios on a chip they have been working (closely) with for months come on lol. There is something rotten in ASUS and it called marketing department lol. I think they waited till the last second and then said oops well we got all the boards sold umm does the chip work in it (tech support) "duh I don't know" lol we thought that was AMD's job? I guess we should check huh? wow it dosent guess we should do something, these people keep calling and bugging us about having our stuff work, pphhh like we are expected to test them or something lol


----------



## Rayleyne

I don't suppose anyone around with bulldozer also happens to play wow, Coz that'd be awesome if someone could tell me how it handles it, thinking of going from my X6 to the 8150 on my sabertooth


----------



## tictoc

Add Me
CPU-Z Link
Phenom II 1090t @ 3.7


----------



## peto3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


Just messing around..




















veri nice +1


----------



## peto3

Add Me

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2061232

Phenom II 980BE


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;15417763*
> people keep calling and bugging us about having our stuff work


I have a question pending for them I sent in online ten days ago, supposedly they respond within 24 working hours. Must be in a time vortex as I haven't received a reply yet.


----------



## BrutusMaximus

Please add me to the list! Thank you in advance


----------



## haziqk10

Add Me

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2059269

Phenom II B50BE


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sequoia464;15420684*
> I have a question pending for them I sent in online ten days ago, supposedly they respond within 24 working hours. Must be in a time vortex as I haven't received a reply yet.


ASUS well there is a trick to get them on the phone, just call and if they ask if you have a claim number, just say you were on the phone with a tech but got cut off and they normally put you right back through instead of a return phone call


----------



## bgtoups

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apollomaker;14113073*
> From the contributions of many, finally some answers and methods to get a true UEFI install going with Windows 7 on our ASUS motherboards. It became clear that the default configuration of a Windows 7 install disk is legacy MBR regardless of the fact that boot code and other info has been present on the install DVD. This only makes sense as when Win7 hit the market, we were still in a total MBR world. Well, we know that is starting to change now with Microsoft finally yielding to the market pressure that keeps growing (thank you Apple) now for UEFI operation.
> 
> This post is to give a starting point "how-to" for UEFI. Thanks to the many who have already been through this and put information up on the web in various places. I am sure with time, this will become truly automated option as Microsoft brings out their next OS and beyond. Anyway, enough of this --- on with the setup info.
> 
> This method uses a USB stick as the boot/install source. You cannot boot and install UEFI directly from the install disk. It will only install legacy MBR. Here we go.
> 
> (1) Obtain at least a 4GB USB stick drive.
> 
> (2) Format the stick in FAT32.
> 
> (3) Copy your MS Win7 64-bit DVD to the USB stick drive. Make sure you copy the file/folder structure EXACTLY as it is on the DVD.
> 
> (4) On the USB stick, go to \efi\microsoft\ folder and copy the BOOT folder.
> 
> (5) Go back to the efi folder and paste in the BOOT folder into the efi folder.
> 
> (6) The EFI folder should contain two folders -- MICROSOFT and BOOT.
> 
> (7) Using 7-Zip (or similar utility) on the USB stick, locate and go to:
> \sources\install.wim\1\Windows\Boot\EFI and locate the file bootmgfw.efi.
> 
> (8) Drag this file to your desktop and rename it to: bootx64.efi. Now copy bootx64.efi to \efi\boot folder on the USB stick.
> 
> (9) You can now boot in UEFI mode from the stick and you will have this option to install Win7 in UEFI mode!
> 
> (10) Once done, verify your UEFI install with DISK MANAGEMENT and/or DISKPART utilities.
> 
> Other Notes:
> 
> In general, nothing else special is needed to do the UEFI install. Make sure your target hard drive for the install is set to GPT type. Most set ports 1-4 to AHCI mode, and ports 5-6 to IDE mode. Just connect your hard drive (the install target) and plug in the USB stick drive. During the first boot, USE THE F8 KEY TO SELECT THE USB STICK identified as UEFI in the boot device select menu as your boot source. You should be off and running.
> 
> I have not determined what the range of configurations of the hard drive partitioning is tolerated by Windows 7 at the beginning of the install. But it must be set to GPT. Windows 7 does look at the partitions and makes adjustments. I am going to do a few more test installs to see what Win7 can manage because it does want to finally end up with the UEFI partition set in a certain order. And remember you cannot see all the partitions -- some remain hidden depending on which utility you use to look at your GPT system drive. (eg DISK MANAGEMENT or DISKPART).
> 
> Anyway, there is my first step up the learning curve with UEFI. Hope this helps --- have fun -- I sure am
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. I recommend you save your usb stick for future installs. Also it may be possible to move the Win7 disk files to other media (once tweaked) and boot/install with that media --- many possibilities.
> 
> Cheers --- Bob


Hi Apollomaker, and anyone else that might have tried a Raid 5 array:

I have a set up much like yours (same Mobo, the Phenom X4 965 processor, and 8 Gb ram) but I have not had any luck loading the OS on a 3 Tb Raid 5 array under UEFI and was wondering if you might have some suggestions.

My system is a Sabertooth 990FX that I have updated the bios to 0805. I am attempting to use 3-1.5 Tb WD Green drives setup as a Raid 5 array, that I want to also load Win 7 x64 Pro onto. I want to have a single 3 Tb drive, and am not interested in partitioning it to a smaller drive for the OS and one for data.

I followed the directions given above, but am not able to get it working. I have done the following:

1) I made a usb stick formatted to FAT32 and copied my win 7 CD on to it, and did the copy of the boot files under the EFI/boot directory as described, placing into that directory the BOOTx64.efi file obtained from the windows CD.

2) In the UEFI Mobo setup, I select 'Raid' for both sets of SATA drives (1-4 and 5-6), and then I select "UEFI Driver" under the Board SATA RAID ROM selection. Under the Boot tab, I made sure that the Boot Options show the UEFI USB stick as Boot Option 1, and I have the "Option Rom Messages" selection to 'Force Bios." (I have also tried that as 'Keep Current' but have not had any better luck).

With these settings, I boot the machine with the UEFI: USB drive in place. During the Win 7 install, in the dialog that asks which drive to install the OS to, I load the Raid drivers that I obtained from the AMD site dated 9/28/11 (extracted from the Catalyst 11-9 SBx32-64.exe file) and then win can see the three 1.5 Tb drives. But loading windows onto even the first of those drives never gets to fully installed, as various errors crop up that do not permit installation to go to completion.

I have also tried the following:
With the Legacy Option ROM in place in the UEFI SATA setup, I create the single Raid 5 array, then go back into the UEFI bios setup, switch back to 'UEFI Raid' option, and allow to boot to win setup. When at the 'select drive screen' I Shift+F10 and change the single boot drive to GPT format using the Diskpart utility under command line mode, then exit out of command line mode back into win setup and finish loading win. When I do this, I see a single volume, and win is able to load the files onto the single slightly less than 3Tb drive after it allocates 100 Mb for its own partition and another small partition for the GPT management, I presume. With this in place, windows is able to finish loading the files and even reboots itself to complete the installation. However, once windows restarts to update the registries, it is as if the Raid drivers it loaded during the disk preparation are not present, as win is unable to finish installation correctly.

I am getting the impression that something is missing in the process to create the Raid 5 array. I would like to use the native SB controller on the motherboard to create the Raid 5 array, so I am not really interested in getting a stand alone raid controller to do this. Under the "Legacy ROM' selection, I can successfully create a Raid 5 array that is less than 2 Tb and successfully load win 7 onto that, but that is all in MBR partition mode. I really would like to get it working in Raid 5 under UEFI using the GPT partition and have a single Raid 5 array of what will be slightly less than 3Tb after all is said and done.

Any help on resolving this is appreciated.
Thanks
Brad


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bgtoups;15424087*
> Hi Apollomaker, and anyone else that might have tried a Raid 5 array:
> 
> I have a set up much like yours (same Mobo, the Phenom X4 965 processor, and 8 Gb ram) but I have not had any luck loading the OS on a 3 Tb Raid 5 array under UEFI and was wondering if you might have some suggestions.
> 
> My system is a Sabertooth 990FX that I have updated the bios to 0805. I am attempting to use 3-1.5 Tb WD Green drives setup as a Raid 5 array, that I want to also load Win 7 x64 Pro onto. I want to have a single 3 Tb drive, and am not interested in partitioning it to a smaller drive for the OS and one for data.
> 
> I followed the directions given above, but am not able to get it working. I have done the following:
> 
> 1) I made a usb stick formatted to FAT32 and copied my win 7 CD on to it, and did the copy of the boot files under the EFI/boot directory as described, placing into that directory the BOOTx64.efi file obtained from the windows CD.
> 
> 2) In the UEFI Mobo setup, I select 'Raid' for both sets of SATA drives (1-4 and 5-6), and then I select "UEFI Driver" under the Board SATA RAID ROM selection. Under the Boot tab, I made sure that the Boot Options show the UEFI USB stick as Boot Option 1, and I have the "Option Rom Messages" selection to 'Force Bios." (I have also tried that as 'Keep Current' but have not had any better luck).
> 
> With these settings, I boot the machine with the UEFI: USB drive in place. During the Win 7 install, in the dialog that asks which drive to install the OS to, I load the Raid drivers that I obtained from the AMD site dated 9/28/11 (extracted from the Catalyst 11-9 SBx32-64.exe file) and then win can see the three 1.5 Tb drives. But loading windows onto even the first of those drives never gets to fully installed, as various errors crop up that do not permit installation to go to completion.
> 
> I have also tried the following:
> With the Legacy Option ROM in place in the UEFI SATA setup, I create the single Raid 5 array, then go back into the UEFI bios setup, switch back to 'UEFI Raid' option, and allow to boot to win setup. When at the 'select drive screen' I Shift+F10 and change the single boot drive to GPT format using the Diskpart utility under command line mode, then exit out of command line mode back into win setup and finish loading win. When I do this, I see a single volume, and win is able to load the files onto the single slightly less than 3Tb drive after it allocates 100 Mb for its own partition and another small partition for the GPT management, I presume. With this in place, windows is able to finish loading the files and even reboots itself to complete the installation. However, once windows restarts to update the registries, it is as if the Raid drivers it loaded during the disk preparation are not present, as win is unable to finish installation correctly.
> 
> I am getting the impression that something is missing in the process to create the Raid 5 array. I would like to use the native SB controller on the motherboard to create the Raid 5 array, so I am not really interested in getting a stand alone raid controller to do this. Under the "Legacy ROM' selection, I can successfully create a Raid 5 array that is less than 2 Tb and successfully load win 7 onto that, but that is all in MBR partition mode. I really would like to get it working in Raid 5 under UEFI using the GPT partition and have a single Raid 5 array of what will be slightly less than 3Tb after all is said and done.
> 
> Any help on resolving this is appreciated.
> Thanks
> Brad


little confused, are you asking for help with raid 5 under ufei?

PS raid 5 is a (4) disk thing not (3)


----------



## bgtoups

Hi,
Yes, I am asking for Raid 5 help, and getting is operational under UEFI using the 3 disks. I understood that one can implement Raid 5 with a minimum of 3 disks, so that is what I have. Indeed, I even got it running, but only when my Raid 5 volume was under 2 Tb, and under the MBR partition, not UEFI. So, it is a problem I am having because it is a Raid configuration (Raid 5) that ends up being too large to use MBR partition.

Thanks for any suggestions you may have,
Brad


----------



## pony-tail

Has anybody used one of these boards with Linux ?
More specifically Ubuntu ?
I do not as yet own one , as I bought a Gigabyte board instead but I am considering a switch .
I have concerns about the UEFI firmware and the Realtec 8111 Nic


----------



## metarox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pony-tail;15425589*
> Has anybody used one of these boards with Linux ?
> More specifically Ubuntu ?
> I do not as yet own one , as I bought a Gigabyte board instead but I am considering a switch .
> I have concerns about the UEFI firmware and the Realtec 8111 Nic


I use Xubuntu as a dual boot to Windows (each on their separate SSD) and you will need to download the 8168 Realtek drivers to install them manually as it loads by default the 8169 which is the wrong driver for this motherboard Ethernet interface.

Let me know if you have issues and I'll post some links to how to replace the driver and get the correct one installed. I downloaded it on windows and put all drivers on my common Data HDD which is accessible in Linux and Windows so I can flip things from one another.

I have to re-install 11.10 as I have ****ed up my ATI drivers and CCC in Linux lately with the upgrade and I can't get it back to a working state so I'll clear everything ans start over.


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> I use Xubuntu as a dual boot to Windows (each on their separate SSD) and you will need to download the 8168 Realtek drivers to install them manually as it loads by default the 8169 which is the wrong driver for this motherboard Ethernet interface.


The gigabyte board does this too - I disabled in bios and put an Intel nic in .
You had no issues with UEFI ?
On the Ubuntu forums they talk about needing a Fat32 UEFI boot partition .
Does it just boot a normal MBR drive without complication ?
Sorry I am a Motor Mechanic - Not a computer tech !


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bgtoups;15424635*
> Hi,
> Yes, I am asking for Raid 5 help, and getting is operational under UEFI using the 3 disks. I understood that one can implement Raid 5 with a minimum of 3 disks, so that is what I have. Indeed, I even got it running, but only when my Raid 5 volume was under 2 Tb, and under the MBR partition, not UEFI. So, it is a problem I am having because it is a Raid configuration (Raid 5) that ends up being too large to use MBR partition.
> 
> Thanks for any suggestions you may have,
> Brad


ok well from what I know raid 5 needs a minimum of 4 disks, but THC Butterz has done about everything under uefi mode, I only had revo drive raid which was raid zero on board it, I think that you need to have 4 drives for raid 5 first off but I will call Butterz in a bit he is eating dinner so give him a bit and I think I can get him to explain uefi and raid together sorry I am not much more help. I have very fast drives with out raid so not needed for me


----------



## sweffymo

RAID 5 actually only needs 3 disks. RAID 6 and 10 need 4.

Sent from my BANANAPHONE using Tapatalk, but not to annoy you.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweffymo;15426768*
> RAID 5 actually only needs 3 disks. RAID 6 and 10 need 4.
> 
> Sent from my BANANAPHONE using Tapatalk, but not to annoy you.


as I said was not sure, lol

I never boast unless I know lol. I talked to Butterz he is going to try and get to your question soon bgtoups


----------



## bgtoups

Thanks. I think that the problem may be simply trying to implement any raid array under UEFI. I appreciate your help.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bgtoups;15427278*
> Thanks. I think that the problem may be simply trying to implement any raid array under UEFI. I appreciate your help.


I have actually never implimented raid and Uefi together so I dont know if theyll work together or not... and I dont have any extra drives to try it with right now... but good luck bud


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pony-tail;15425589*
> Has anybody used one of these boards with Linux ?
> More specifically Ubuntu ?
> I do not as yet own one , as I bought a Gigabyte board instead but I am considering a switch .
> I have concerns about the UEFI firmware and the Realtec 8111 Nic


Mine works fine with Linux Mint 11.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bgtoups;15427278*
> Thanks. I think that the problem may be simply trying to implement any raid array under UEFI. I appreciate your help.


I have 2 velociraptors in RAID 0 working fine!


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> Mine works fine with Linux Mint 11.


Did you use an MBR partitioned drive or do it some other way ?


----------



## bgtoups

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker;15427612*
> Mine works fine with Linux Mint 11.
> 
> I have 2 velociraptors in RAID 0 working fine!


I am very interested in knowing you you implemented Raid 0 under win 7 x64. Care to share? Was it on your Sabertooth mobo?
Thanks


----------



## NBrock

Question for you guys. The AI suite says that Vcore 1 hits 80*c during prime 95. What is your input on this? Could the sensor be giving exaggerated readings because of surrounding temps? AI suite says the cpu is 73*c the Core temps in Hardware monitor are 59-60*c. This is under full load of prime 95. In games it only sees a max of 45-50*c.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker;15427612*
> Mine works fine with Linux Mint 11.
> 
> I have 2 velociraptors in RAID 0 working fine!


2 raptors arnt in Uefi though as they are sub 3tb though right??


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## NBrock

I upped the voltage a but once I got another radiator for my liquid cooling setup. Runs stable for over 5 hours (haven't tested longer than that). My First and second run @4.515ghz was 9868.1 in pass mark. With the upped voltage it got 10,018.3, as you can tell stability was most likely the issue. I think I could manage 5ghz on my liquid cooling if I got some better fans








Hope the results are encouraging.


----------



## Bradford1040

did a admin delete a post? or am I not getting my browser updated? stupid question maybe but this has been three times tonight where I had emails and no posts like it on OCN?


----------



## drizek

Yes, an admin deleted my post for me accidentally violating the rules. I won't mention what I did, since if I bring up the subject again it would probably be another violation of the rules.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drizek;15429630*
> Yes, an admin deleted my post for me accidentally violating the rules. I won't mention what I did, since if I bring up the subject again it would probably be another violation of the rules.


well thank you, I got it in my email so I understand why, I just wanted to make sure it was not my system screwing up.

I will PM you if there is a answer to that


----------



## metarox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pony-tail*


The gigabyte board does this too - I disabled in bios and put an Intel nic in .
You had no issues with UEFI ?
On the Ubuntu forums they talk about needing a Fat32 UEFI boot partition .
Does it just boot a normal MBR drive without complication ?
Sorry I am a Motor Mechanic - Not a computer tech !


Someday the app responsible for detecting the NIC and loading the proper drivers in the linux kernel will be updated and will work fine in detecting the 8168.

As for the UEFI, when you install Linux and you choose to partition it yourself, there is an option in file system selection (ext4, etc.) to select a UEFI boot partition. 100 MB is enough for this.

My Windows and Linux are physically separated since each is on their own SDD so I'm not sure how Linux would install on a drive shared with Windows. I would assume it would install its information on the already available UEFI boot partition created by Windows if you installed it first (recommended else it will destroy your boot area of Linux which you will have to repair it manually to get back the dual boot)

If you need more details, just pm me and I can show you my config and how to load the nic drivers and where to download the stuff. It's really not complicated.


----------



## cook

thanks!


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:



As for the UEFI, when you install Linux and you choose to partition it yourself, there is an option in file system selection (ext4, etc.) to select a UEFI boot partition. 100 MB is enough for this.

My Windows and Linux are physically separated since each is on their own SDD so I'm not sure how Linux would install on a drive shared with Windows. I would assume it would install its information on the already available UEFI boot partition created by Windows if you installed it first (recommended else it will destroy your boot area of Linux which you will have to repair it manually to get back the dual boot)


Thanks for the info .


----------



## Voidy

Hello, I have a Sabertooth 990FX. (I'm actually having problems with it today, but I have one(edit 2: Of course I am the problem and with some help from you pros it's fixed))


----------



## pinkfloyd48

Im loving my 1100T I will just keep this till everything is straightend out with BD, Do you think I should lower voltage?
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2061920


----------



## NBrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pinkfloyd48;15433227*
> Im loving my 1100T I will just keep this till everything is straightend out with BD, Do you think I should lower voltage?
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2061920


Nice, what are your passmark 7 scores? I just wanna see how it is compared to my 8120. As long as your heat is good I would think the voltage is fine. I have had a 939 socket Opteron 165 running 1.51 volts @ 3.2 ghz (up from 1.8ghz stock) for about 5 years...it's still running strong


----------



## pinkfloyd48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NBrock;15433672*
> Nice, what are your passmark 7 scores? I just wanna see how it is compared to my 8120. As long as your heat is good I would think the voltage is fine. I have had a 939 socket Opteron 165 running 1.51 volts @ 3.2 ghz (up from 1.8ghz stock) for about 5 years...it's still running strong


My passmark scores suck like 2256 overall and cpu is 7328


----------



## NBrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pinkfloyd48;15435520*
> My passmark scores suck like 2256 overall and cpu is 7328


Hmmm thats odd. The stock 3.1 Ghz CPU score for passmark on mine was high 7 thousands (turbo core off) How stable is the over clock in Prime 95? Mine went from High 8 thousands to a tad over 10k once I upped the voltage a bit more (I know we have different CPUs, just thought the score seemed a little low).


----------



## pinkfloyd48

I just noticed something odd. It shows me running stock speed how can that be?


----------



## CaliforniaRailRoadGuy

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2062108

I'm a new member, but not a pc newbie







I have visited this site occasionaly, but I finally decided to register, I think it is my new 990FX an dFX-8120 that urged me on lol


----------



## CaliforniaRailRoadGuy

Add Me
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2062108
AMD FX-8120, Overclocked to 4.5 Ghz


----------



## THC Butterz

I will go through the spreadsheet tonight and verifying links and validations.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using PSYCHIC POWERS


----------



## infini

Is there a way to make it get faster to the post screen? It takes so much time compared to my 10 year old Asus A7V133-C.


----------



## THC Butterz

I have updated the SS, You may notice a few differences, If your membership status says Un-Verified and you would like to be come verified, please link a CPU-Z validation with the name matching your OCN username, to your original post and then send me a pm


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pony-tail;15427870*
> Did you use an MBR partitioned drive or do it some other way ?


Actually I ran a Live CD image on a thumbdrive. You indicated the LAN operation in your previous post wasn't working in Linux, but mine did with no problem.


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bgtoups;15427915*
> I am very interested in knowing you you implemented Raid 0 under win 7 x64. Care to share? Was it on your Sabertooth mobo?
> Thanks


Standard fare, then build the array, then boot off of the Win 7 x64 disk and install. Yes this was on my Sabertooth 990FX.


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infini;15444296*
> Is there a way to make it get faster to the post screen? It takes so much time compared to my 10 year old Asus A7V133-C.


Yes, disable the Jmicron controller under JMB Storage in BIOS. This will search for a connected disk, and if disabled saves the search time!


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> Actually I ran a Live CD image on a thumbdrive. You indicated the LAN operation in your previous post wasn't working in Linux, but mine did with no problem.


Very surprised that you had no issues with the RTL 8111 nic under Linux .
USB thumb drive ! -- I would be using Linux as my Primary OS so it would be a Hard disk install .


----------



## metarox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker;15446089*
> Actually I ran a Live CD image on a thumbdrive. You indicated the LAN operation in your previous post wasn't working in Linux, but mine did with no problem.


The 8169 driver will still be loaded and works sometimes but it is not the optimal driver for this NIC.

Just type "lsmod | grep r81" on the command line to see which one is loaded.


----------



## bgtoups

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker;15446098*
> Standard fare, then build the array, then boot off of the Win 7 x64 disk and install. Yes this was on my Sabertooth 990FX.


Thanks for the update. I can do this, too, when I have the board set to operate under the Legacy BIOS, but not under UEFI implementation. On my board, with the original, the 0705, or the most recent 0810 bios update in place, if I select UEFI Raid rather than 'Legacy' in the SB SATA panel of setup I am unable to Ctrl+F into the Option Rom during POST, so I am unable to enter into the Raid Option Rom to actually set up the array.

Consequently, when I start the win install, and get to the point that I am asked for the raid drivers by Win, I will load the driver and then see my three separate disks, not the single Raid Volume I want to see. It seems as if there is not a way to enter into the Raid Option Rom to set up the array prior to using the UEFI boot process to load win onto a raid setup.

I am attempting to create a Raid5 array using 3-1.5Tb WD green drives, and in the Option Rom under BIOS, I can do this, which results in a single Raid5 volume of about 2.8Tb size. Unfortunately, win 7 can't load the OS onto a volume above 2 Tb because the MBR partition it creates cant address memory locations above 2Tb. So I have two choices: either break the partition down to smaller sizes and install everything under normal BIOS win 7 install and have multiple drive volumes (which I don't want to do) or install Win 7 under UEFI so that, using GPT disk partition during that version of win install, I can use the single large volume to load both the OS and everything else onto, which is what I do want to do. It seems like the motherboard should support this, but I am beginning to think that the raid implementation on the board can't make it work. I don't really want to use an add in Raid controller card if I can avoid it.

Any thoughts?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infini;15444296*
> Is there a way to make it get faster to the post screen? It takes so much time compared to my 10 year old Asus A7V133-C.


are you asking about the post screen on the saber board (you most likely are just making sure) if so yes there is

EDIT: just for now here is the messed up validation lol, I hope cpu-z gets a new one soon


----------



## magicmike

So i switched over to an 1100T in my sig rig and had zero issues with this board getting to 4GHz, think I may have a really good chip since it didn't take much voltage to get to 4GHz either.


----------



## NBrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magicmike;15448371*
> So i switched over to an 1100T in my sig rig and had zero issues with this board getting to 4GHz, think I may have a really good chip since it didn't take much voltage to get to 4GHz either.


Would you be so kind as to post up or tell me your Passmark scores? I am just doing some comparisons. I upgraded from a PII x4 955 right to the FX-8120.


----------



## pinkfloyd48

Heres my new validation you asked for.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pinkfloyd48*


Heres my new validation you asked for.




Is the 1.54v same under full load or does LLC take it up a bit. How long have you been there too? Trying to see what is a good 24/7 volt. I know most people throw out 1.55v mostly. Some even 1.6v


----------



## ORL

Hello OCN. I have something in need of answering here.

I need water blocks for the 990FX Sabertooth. Anyone been able to find a setup that works? Thanks!


----------



## magicmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NBrock;15449304*
> Would you be so kind as to post up or tell me your Passmark scores? I am just doing some comparisons. I upgraded from a PII x4 955 right to the FX-8120.


CPU Mark is at 7782.6

I can post more later, haven't ran full test yet


----------



## pinkfloyd48

After playing WOT for hour then I get crashed so no I dont run it 24/7 This is what iI run 24/7


----------



## CaliforniaRailRoadGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NBrock;15427937*
> Question for you guys. The AI suite says that Vcore 1 hits 80*c during prime 95. What is your input on this? Could the sensor be giving exaggerated readings because of surrounding temps? AI suite says the cpu is 73*c the Core temps in Hardware monitor are 59-60*c. This is under full load of prime 95. In games it only sees a max of 45-50*c.


I have the same question. I even put a spot fan from Antec to blow on it tonight, and while the idle temps have dropped from about 50 to 40 or so, after a few minutes on Prime 95 it will still get to 80+ on AI Thermal Radar. Is AI wrong? I know Prime 95 stresses the system out to it's max, but that still seems too warm to me.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NBrock;15427937*
> Question for you guys. The AI suite says that Vcore 1 hits 80*c during prime 95. What is your input on this? Could the sensor be giving exaggerated readings because of surrounding temps? AI suite says the cpu is 73*c the Core temps in Hardware monitor are 59-60*c. This is under full load of prime 95. In games it only sees a max of 45-50*c.


??????????????????????????????80C???????????????????????wow WOW WIOWOWOWOWOW Um you got a issue I think 80c holly poo


----------



## CaliforniaRailRoadGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;15456364*
> ??????????????????????????????80C???????????????????????wow WOW WIOWOWOWOWOW Um you got a issue I think 80c holly poo


What kind of temps are you seeing on Prime 95 on Vcore-1?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliforniaRailRoadGuy;15456379*
> What kind of temps are you seeing on Prime 95 on Vcore-1?


50~52c max on vcore 1 abd 48c on vcore2 max


----------



## CaliforniaRailRoadGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;15456403*
> 50~52c max on vcore 1 abd 48c on vcore2 max


Is that in AI Thermal Radar, or using another program?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliforniaRailRoadGuy;15456422*
> Is that in AI Thermal Radar, or using another program?


AI suite and others as well like Aida64 but all say same temps,,, UM I have to step out BRB so dont think i left you hanging


----------



## CaliforniaRailRoadGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;15456433*
> AI suite and others as well like Aida64 but all say same temps,,, UM I have to step out BRB so dont think i left you hanging


No worries, I'll be hangin' around for a while


----------



## CaliforniaRailRoadGuy

Let me check again what I have set in BIOS on things, and I'll post them here, see if you have some better settings. BRB...

I tried the settings you recommended a few posts back, but no difference so far. I have my VCORE at 1.4 V, and OC at 4.5 Ghz.


----------



## ORL

Californiarailroadguy. Your temps are way to high.

Your VCore1 is the DigiVRM/Mofset set to the left of the CPU socket in normal mounting position. These temps suffer greatly with a BD installation. However your high temps on these particular parts tells me that you do not have proper airflow across this portion of the motherboard. Usually a quick and easy way depending on your case is to turn the rear fan from exhaust to intake. Depending on your CPU cooling solution you may need to adjust this to avoid flow conflicts. The other option you have is to add a fan specifically for this or water cooling.

Just some info for you!


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliforniaRailRoadGuy;15456479*
> Let me check again what I have set in BIOS on things, and I'll post them here, see if you have some better settings. BRB...
> 
> I tried the settings you recommended a few posts back, but no difference so far. I have my VCORE at 1.4 V, and OC at 4.5 Ghz.


I will take a few AI suite screen shots but I do all my settings in the bios!!!

Plus the memory hole remaping thing is very important to disable on all these chips, plus I go into the dram driver mode (thing right under timings) and max all out but the 160ns thing think it looks like 2x 2x 2x 2x 1.5x 1.5x 160ns and the same on each ram chip I have it twice


----------



## CaliforniaRailRoadGuy

Thanks for the tips and info ORL and Bradford! I have a Antec Spot Fan blowing directly on the VRM, and for rear exhaust I have the Antec Kuhler 920 and fans in push/pull config. Everthing is running cool as a cucumber EXCEPT for VCORE-1. I will see if I can change the Spot Fan around a bit. I have the HAF X Case, with a 200 MM Fan on the side and front bringing in cool air, and 2 200 MM fans on the top blowing air out, along with the Antec Kuhler 920 fans too of course.


----------



## CaliforniaRailRoadGuy

Well, I adjusted the spot fan a bit, and VCORE-1 is idling at 38C and VCORE-2 at 33C.

Edit-Thanks mucho for the screen shots! I only mod mine in BIOS too, it's the only way I think!


----------



## CaliforniaRailRoadGuy

Well, I set the Antec Spot Fan directly on top of the VRM's, and then ran Prime95 for a bit, temps on the VCORE-1 maxed out at 64-65, still a bit warm but MUCH better!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ORL;15456615*
> Californiarailroadguy. Your temps are way to high.
> 
> Your VCore1 is the DigiVRM/Mofset set to the left of the CPU socket in normal mounting position. *These temps suffer greatly with a BD installation.* However your high temps on these particular parts tells me that you do not have proper airflow across this portion of the motherboard. Usually a quick and easy way depending on your case is to turn the rear fan from exhaust to intake. Depending on your CPU cooling solution you may need to adjust this to avoid flow conflicts. The other option you have is to add a fan specifically for this or water cooling.
> 
> Just some info for you!


8+2 isnt enough anymore,this is why the heavy current intels have more phases....seems the POWAH! draw was more than the Manu's thought.
With ASUS track record in heatsink mounting,maybe a remount is in order....
VRM's go to the high 90's without harm,not 24hr crunching safe tho


----------



## vartok

ADD ME

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2066398

im trying to coax 4GHz outs of my 740BE but keep getting suck around 3850... could someone explain exactly what the cpu current capability setting does?


----------



## haziqk10

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vartok*


ADD ME

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2066398

im trying to coax 4GHz outs of my 740BE but keep getting suck around 3850... could someone explain exactly what the cpu current capability setting does?


You might want to reduce the vcore abit. 1.57v is too much for 3.84ghz...


----------



## ORL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE;15458609*
> 8+2 isnt enough anymore,this is why the heavy current intels have more phases....seems the POWAH! draw was more than the Manu's thought.
> With ASUS track record in heatsink mounting,maybe a remount is in order....
> VRM's go to the high 90's without harm,not 24hr crunching safe tho


I have actually been considering a remount of my own. I had not done it yet because of time constraints. Has anyone experience here with just replacing the existing thermal interface with another non conductive and your results?

The other thing is... I STILL NEED A WATERBLOCK for this motherboard! I am unable to find one that will work! Anyone have some helpful info here or experience?

Will the CHV or CHIV full cover blocks do it?


----------



## CaliforniaRailRoadGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE;15458609*
> VRM's go to the high 90's without harm,not 24hr crunching safe tho


Well, like I said with the Antec Spot Fan I have it down now to 65-68 max on Prime 95, and idle of 35-40, so it sounds like I'm okay now.


----------



## CaliforniaRailRoadGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haziqk10;15465495*
> You might want to reduce the vcore abit. 1.57v is too much for 3.84ghz...


Definitley way over, I have my FX-8120 OC'd to 4.5 Ghz on 1.4 Volts.

Edit-Oops, I see he has a different CPU, sorry, my bad.


----------



## NBrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliforniaRailRoadGuy;15466736*
> Well, like I said with the Antec Spot Fan I have it down now to 65-68 max on Prime 95, and idle of 35-40, so it sounds like I'm okay now.


I turned my two rear fans around and the temps went way down on mine. I figure with all my fans facing in except for the top 200mm fan it will force all the hot air that way and it did









***Is anyone else with the Sabertooth and FX series running into this issue...I am having a hard time keeping the voltage the same on my CPU. It will change a little sometimes and it will cause my overclock to become unstable. For example in the bios I have to set the voltage to 1.40v in order to get it to run at 1.365 or so.


----------



## ORL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NBrock;15468109*
> I turned my two rear fans around and the temps went way down on mine. I figure with all my fans facing in except for the top 200mm fan it will force all the hot air that way and it did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ***Is anyone else with the Sabertooth and FX series running into this issue...I am having a hard time keeping the voltage the same on my CPU. It will change a little sometimes and it will cause my overclock to become unstable. For example in the bios I have to set the voltage to 1.40v in order to get it to run at 1.365 or so.


This is called Vdroop. You need to initiate your LLC to correct this. It will however result in the voltage being or close to being your number thus creating more heat if you enable it above the voltages you need to sustain your clocks.


----------



## NBrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ORL;15468263*
> This is called Vdroop. You need to initiate your LLC to correct this. It will however result in the voltage being or close to being your number thus creating more heat if you enable it above the voltages you need to sustain your clocks.


Forgive my lack of knowledge but what does LLC stand for? I did try to look it up on google...but that was unsuccessful. Is it line load control?


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NBrock;15468450*
> Forgive my lack of knowledge but what does LLC stand for? I did try to look it up on google...but that was unsuccessful. Is it line load control?


Load Line Calibration....


----------



## NBrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker;15468582*
> Load Line Calibration....


Haha I was kind of close. I appreciate everyone's quick responses. This is a good forum and I enjoy belonging to it







I'm trying to hit at least 4.8 ghz before I ask to be an official Sabertooth Club Member. The closest I have gotten is 4.615ghz. I'm looking for prime 95 stable clocks. Heat is the main issue.


----------



## vartok

Quote:



Originally Posted by *haziqk10*


You might want to reduce the vcore abit. 1.57v is too much for 3.84ghz...


thats what i needed to have it set on with my last mobo before it fried (2 ram slots died) so i really dont have any heat issues, and i left on cnq so its not running at that all the time.... what should i be shooting for then?

also any care to answer the other part to my post? i dont want to just max the setting out not knowing what it does


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vartok*


thats what i needed to have it set on with my last mobo before it fried (2 ram slots died) so i really dont have any heat issues, and i left on cnq so its not running at that all the time.... what should i be shooting for then?

also any care to answer the other part to my post? i dont want to just max the setting out not knowing what it does


That is massive volts for a low clock,you did start from scratch with your new OC right,not just your old settings?


----------



## eliteip

got the sabertooth long ago with a nice sexual conduct on it. ADD ME.


----------



## vartok

Quote:



Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


That is massive volts for a low clock,you did start from scratch with your new OC right,not just your old settings?


yes and no, i started with roughtly the same clock setting, but different bus and multiplier settings. (my ASrock board's bus speed could be increased at all without a BSOD) but that 1.57 is what was needed on the old board


----------



## WeirdHarold

Hello everyone, I'm seriously looking at this board for my new build and would like to know what those of you using it honestly think of the board and it's features? Also other than the Intel LAN on the Crosshair am I really giving up anything major by stepping down to the Sabertooth? Any info would be great and I don't mean to rush you but Newegg.com is offering an extra $10 off good through October 31st and if I'm going to do this my time is limited.


----------



## NBrock

What voltage should I run the NB and NB/CPU at so I can run the NB at 2600mhz? Right now I am Running the CPU at 4.6ghz and 1.43 volts.


----------



## eliteip

You can keep it still on voltage or just 1 bump. Don't bump to much..

Sent from my HTC Vision


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NBrock*


What voltage should I run the NB and NB/CPU at so I can run the NB at 2600mhz? Right now I am Running the CPU at 4.6ghz and 1.43 volts.


I don't know why but there seems to be such a big difference between the 8150 and 8120 headroom and voltage requirements as I am sitting at 1.39v cpu for 5ghz and 1.45v cpu/nb 2800mhz

Now there are some settings that are about the same between the Phenom II and this Zambezi, but the memory mhz headroom is majorly more than the Phenom II, so the overclocking AMD rules still apply and the AMD performance still lye's with the cpu/nb speed! That is where the reviewers on this chip went wrong, they all went for cpu mhz and left the NB at stock or lower in some cases. Now the increase of cpu speed is best done by finding the cpu/nb speed wall first, then increasing the cpu speed, I am still playing around with settings myself,*(((( I normally would of had it mapped out better by now, and for that I am sorry for those I help. I have been preoccupied by Origin's screwed up client and still not 100% able to play BF3 which I prepaid for about two months ago. For this I apologize, and I will be working on again hard core after tonight. For those that don't understand Origin loses or corrupts the download if paused, and forget it if you BSOD lol, which we all know happens during OC'ing )))) * I will be more available in the next few days


----------



## vartok

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


I don't know why but there seems to be such a big difference between the 8150 and 8120 headroom and voltage requirements as I am sitting at 1.39v cpu for 5ghz and 1.45v cpu/nb 2800mhz

Now there are some settings that are about the same between the Phenom II and this Zambezi, but the memory mhz headroom is majorly more than the Phenom II, so the overclocking AMD rules still apply and the AMD performance still lye's with the cpu/nb speed! That is where the reviewers on this chip went wrong, they all went for cpu mhz and left the NB at stock or lower in some cases. Now the increase of cpu speed is best done by finding the cpu/nb speed wall first, then increasing the cpu speed, I am still playing around with settings myself,*(((( I normally would of had it mapped out better by now, and for that I am sorry for those I help. I have been preoccupied by Origin's screwed up client and still not 100% able to play BF3 which I prepaid for about two months ago. For this I apologize, and I will be working on again hard core after tonight. For those that don't understand Origin loses or corrupts the download if paused, and forget it if you BSOD lol, which we all know happens during OC'ing )))) * I will be more available in the next few days


Really? everything i remember reading when i started OCing was that the NB and HT speeds didnt account for much, so i really havent messed around to much with them.... maybe i should start playing around with thouse then....


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vartok*


Really? everything i remember reading when i started OCing was that the NB and HT speeds didnt account for much, so i really havent messed around to much with them.... maybe i should start playing around with thouse then....


sorry for the delay, as I said will be back on full tomorrow, But yes big time the cpu/nb not so much the HT is a big BIG performance gain!!! Ask any seasoned OC'er on a AMD phenom II chip, now if you just want bragging speeds you can go for cpu only but you want speed and usage out of that speed OC the cpu/nb first and on air only go to about 1.45v max on that and 1.55 max on the cpu volts


----------



## CaliforniaRailRoadGuy

I know Overclocking the NB can get you gains, but from everything I've read Overclocking the HT will get you nada, or has it changed with Bulldozer?


----------



## CaliforniaRailRoadGuy

I'm at 4.5 Ghz and 1.41 volts on my FX-8120, I haven't done much overclocking of the NB or HT yet though.


----------



## vartok

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


sorry for the delay, as I said will be back on full tomorrow, But yes big time the cpu/nb not so much the HT is a big BIG performance gain!!! Ask any seasoned OC'er on a AMD phenom II chip, now if you just want bragging speeds you can go for cpu only but you want speed and usage out of that speed OC the cpu/nb first and on air only go to about 1.45v max on that and 1.55 max on the cpu volts


well, i got the cpu down to 1.548, gonna keep nudging it lower... as for the NB im at 2.3GHz... guess i should work on that.... what the best test that puts the most strain on the NB? i have prime95 and occt, or is there something else?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vartok*


well, i got the cpu down to 1.548, gonna keep nudging it lower... as for the NB im at 2.3... guess i should work on that.... what the best test that puts the most strain on the NB? i have prime95 and occt, or is there something else?


well the short of it is the cpu/nb is the way and speed that the memory talks to the cpu and if you want the tech stuff the cpu/nb is ON the cpu, it is the integrated memory controller and adds heat the the cpu as well, so it is not just as simple as a test for the cpu/nb there is no test as far as I know but there is a whole overclocking guide on the net some where but I can help you as well so can Butterz as we both know about the same on things to do with AMD phenom II and this board (we both learned this board together, him on west coast and me on east though, so lots of hours on the phone)

As far as the HT goes there is some gains with the phenom's but it is not till you get to the end of the headroom on all/everything else then you see a little gain, sure its the same with BD have not really worked on it 100% yet just got it to 2800mhz nb and 5ghz cpu and stopped because of Origin's BF3 downloading problems

Sorry to ramble but there are so many things to learn when OC'ing a AMD and if you are moving from Intel as I did forget everything you think you know and start over other than HEAT KILLS lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vartok*


well, i got the cpu down to 1.548, gonna keep nudging it lower... as for the NB im at 2.3GHz... guess i should work on that.... what the best test that puts the most strain on the NB? i have prime95 and occt, or is there something else?


Prime95 Blend is used for NB testing,small fft or large fft for CPU testing. There are next to no gains OC'ing the HT link and stability is compromised above 2100,best left at stock.


----------



## samin62

Submitted, hopefully 8120 comes down in price because I am interested in getting it. Anyone recommend a good cpu cooler that matches with Sabertooth colour scheme?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samin62*


Submitted, hopefully 8120 comes down in price because I am interested in getting it. Anyone recommend a good cpu cooler that matches with Sabertooth colour scheme?


as far as air cooling, the best air cooler that I see which mite not go with color scheme but works great is the noctura d14 dam thing is everywhere lol but I suggest custom water cooling not store bought h50/70/100 things they are just high end air cooling to tell the truth


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


as far as air cooling, the best air cooler that I see which mite not go with color scheme but works great is the noctura d14 dam thing is everywhere lol but I suggest custom water cooling not store bought h50/70/100 things they are just high end air cooling to tell the truth


I have owned a few H series coolers,they are great for the money but get heatsoaked very quickly. Plus the stock fans are junk,Ap-29's FTW.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


I have owned a few H series coolers,they are great for the money but get heatsoaked very quickly. Plus the stock fans are junk,Ap-29's FTW.


agreed that is why I consider them high end air cooling, I have a H50 in push/pull on my 790I rig rite now while I am waiting on the last danger den full block for the gtx260's that I am running on that rig, not a mind blowing rig anymore but still games out of this world on about 80~90% of the games out, It just doesn't do DX11 which I still wish they would come up with a hack for that lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I bet your ass twiched like a rabbits nose doing your reflow with that Indigo......


----------



## samin62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


as far as air cooling, the best air cooler that I see which mite not go with color scheme but works great is the noctura d14 dam thing is everywhere lol but I suggest custom water cooling not store bought h50/70/100 things they are just high end air cooling to tell the truth


you need to guide me to a "custom water cooling" because I am hella new to water cooling


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samin62*


you need to guide me to a "custom water cooling" because I am hella new to water cooling


Get an EK or XSPC kit,then part the bits you dont like out.
Go to sidewinders for parts,Gary is a great vendor,i use him and i am in the UK!


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


I bet your ass twiched like a rabbits nose doing your reflow with that Indigo......


first time I ever applied it was a bit strange, but not sure what the rabbits nose thing is lol, never heard that saying, but I was not 100% worried but was on the fence about the way the instructions explained it. In fact the first time I ever did it I screwed it up and the 20usd kit only comes with two applications so was kinda pissed at myself! But the second time I figured out what they meant and watched a few YouTube vids on it so have been hooked ever siince as it has beaten every TIM I ever used!!!!! I would say to the avg. person it would drop your temps 5~8c and those are big numbers for AMD chips

I highly recommend Indigo Extreme for ether AMD pr Intel, its just to easy to apply and makes lapping a thing of the past all most


----------



## CaliforniaRailRoadGuy

I have a Antec Kuhler 920 on my rig and am very impressed with the cooling, and I love the Chill Control software! I had a Noctua NHD14 before this, and while it cools well it is HUGE and really limits you on what memory you can do, as well as blocking view of a good bit of the mobo







I also worried about the pressure it puts on the Mobo, because it's one heavy monster! I might get into custom water cooling eventually, but I'm not much of a machinist or tool person, and that all sounds kinda complicated. I also am worried about leaking, which I don't have to worry about with the 920.

I'm also a HUGE Model Train guy, and some guys are into building from scratch, me, I love building regular kits or getting prebuilt, I don't have the tools, money or patience to build from scratch. lol


----------



## CaliforniaRailRoadGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samin62;15495648*
> you need to guide me to a "custom water cooling" because I am hella new to water cooling


You and me both.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;15495932*
> I highly recommend Indigo Extreme for ether AMD pr Intel, its just to easy to apply and makes lapping a thing of the past all most


I would not use on AMD as the reflow temp is 20c higher than max temp of the chip.
great for intel tho.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliforniaRailRoadGuy;15496131*
> You and me both.


sorry I missed you, I fell asleep lol, I do that!

Um you and samin62, can both learn about water cooling, its not hard at all just costly in the beginning, the first set up is the most expensive as you have nothing so I always suggest starting with a kit now my personal fav. starting kit is Swiftech h20-220 here is a link to one site with it http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_604&products_id=26994 I recommend this one for many reasons main thing is the pump! The laing D5 pump is used by about everyone there are also other choices but this pump seems to last forever! Secondly the CPU block is top notch in every review (in which I am starting to lose faith with reviewers) The Apogee XT is #1 even on this sites water cooling admin's review (best flow and cooling for the price)!

I have owned this kit as well as had a few buy it and they never complained because it was the parts they kept using as they upgraded (not because they had to but because they liked and wanted to) I got a different resivior and also added koolance full cover blocks to my video cards and down the road I put a dam screw through the rad so I needed to get a new one and was going to go for another swiftech as it really did very well before but I got different rads Danger dens (real reason was they had Cross Flow which made installing look nicer) but all'n'all it is the way to go if you are on your PC allot and gaming or you get the Overclocking bug! lol

EDIT PS> B Negative the spec's on the AMD indigo extreme are only written for the Intel ones don't know why but the real re-flow for the AMD one is about 55c~62c mine melted in there somewhere as the temps got to 62c then DROPPED FAST lol, weird seeing that for the first time though! But the spec's are not 20c over the AMD chip trust me, The chip shuts off the system automatically when in the bios if it gets over factory specs,( I have tested that a few times by accident, fired it up with out heat sinks) in fact it has been rumored that you can't ever hurt a chip in the bios only during OS loading, after the bios. I am not a programmer so don't know why but that has always been what was told to me


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;15497312*
> sorry I missed you, I fell asleep lol, I do that!
> 
> Um you and samin62, can both learn about water cooling, its not hard at all just costly in the beginning, the first set up is the most expensive as you have nothing so I always suggest starting with a kit now my personal fav. starting kit is Swiftech h20-220 here is a link to one site with it http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_604&products_id=26994 I recommend this one for many reasons main thing is the pump! The laing D5 pump is used by about everyone there are also other choices but this pump seems to last forever! Secondly the CPU block is top notch in every review (in which I am starting to lose faith with reviewers) The Apogee XT is #1 even on this sites water cooling admin's review (best flow and cooling for the price)!
> 
> I have owned this kit as well as had a few buy it and they never complained because it was the parts they kept using as they upgraded (not because they had to but because they liked and wanted to) I got a different resivior and also added koolance full cover blocks to my video cards and down the road I put a dam screw through the rad so I needed to get a new one and was going to go for another swiftech as it really did very well before but I got different rads Danger dens (real reason was they had Cross Flow which made installing look nicer) but all'n'all it is the way to go if you are on your PC allot and gaming or you get the Overclocking bug! lol
> 
> EDIT PS> B Negative the spec's on the AMD indigo extreme are only written for the Intel ones don't know why but the real re-flow for the AMD one is about 55c~62c mine melted in there somewhere as the temps got to 62c then DROPPED FAST lol, weird seeing that for the first time though! But the spec's are not 20c over the AMD chip trust me, The chip shuts off the system automatically when in the bios if it gets over factory specs,( I have tested that a few times by accident, fired it up with out heat sinks) in fact it has been rumored that you can't ever hurt a chip in the bios only during OS loading, after the bios. I am not a programmer so don't know why but that has always been what was told to me


Im running the block and pump that come in that kit... kils the rasa kit any day...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;15497312*
> EDIT PS> B Negative the *spec's on the AMD indigo extreme are only written for the Intel ones* don't know why but the real re-flow for the AMD one is about 55c~62c mine melted in there somewhere as the temps got to 62c then DROPPED FAST lol, weird seeing that for the first time though! But the spec's are not 20c over the AMD chip trust me, *The chip shuts off the system automatically when in the bios if it gets over factory specs*,( I have tested that a few times by accident, fired it up with out heat sinks) in fact it has been rumored that you can't ever hurt a chip in the bios only during OS loading, after the bios. I am not a programmer so don't know why but that has always been what was told to me


That explains it for the reflow..Max temp for AMD is 62c,The Intel version would mash your chip
The bios will only save your chip if set at 60c and thats if you remember to enable.


----------



## samin62

ok so I submitted and the link messed up lol.

anyone tell me the proper format?


----------



## SgtHawker

Near impossible to find.

8120 at Newegg


----------



## CaliforniaRailRoadGuy

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*   Near impossible to find.

8120 at Newegg  
SOLD OUT

That was quick!









Edit-Amazon has them for $199.99, though it says they ship in 5-6 days-

  Amazon.com: AMD FX 8120 8-Core Processor 3.1 8 Socket AM3 - FD8120FRGUBOX: Computers & Accessories


----------



## CaliforniaRailRoadGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


sorry I missed you, I fell asleep lol, I do that!

Um you and samin62, can both learn about water cooling, its not hard at all just costly in the beginning, the first set up is the most expensive as you have nothing so I always suggest starting with a kit now my personal fav. starting kit is Swiftech h20-220 here is a link to one site with it http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=26994 I recommend this one for many reasons main thing is the pump! The laing D5 pump is used by about everyone there are also other choices but this pump seems to last forever! Secondly the CPU block is top notch in every review (in which I am starting to lose faith with reviewers) The Apogee XT is #1 even on this sites water cooling admin's review (best flow and cooling for the price)!

I have owned this kit as well as had a few buy it and they never complained because it was the parts they kept using as they upgraded (not because they had to but because they liked and wanted to) I got a different resivior and also added koolance full cover blocks to my video cards and down the road I put a dam screw through the rad so I needed to get a new one and was going to go for another swiftech as it really did very well before but I got different rads Danger dens (real reason was they had Cross Flow which made installing look nicer) but all'n'all it is the way to go if you are on your PC allot and gaming or you get the Overclocking bug! lol

EDIT PS> B Negative the spec's on the AMD indigo extreme are only written for the Intel ones don't know why but the real re-flow for the AMD one is about 55c~62c mine melted in there somewhere as the temps got to 62c then DROPPED FAST lol, weird seeing that for the first time though! But the spec's are not 20c over the AMD chip trust me, The chip shuts off the system automatically when in the bios if it gets over factory specs,( I have tested that a few times by accident, fired it up with out heat sinks) in fact it has been rumored that you can't ever hurt a chip in the bios only during OS loading, after the bios. I am not a programmer so don't know why but that has always been what was told to me


Thanks for the tips and info!














That Swiftech is NICE! I think probably it will be my next upgrade, I like Performance PC's too, it's a Toys R Us for Geeks LOL


----------



## vartok

stupid question... which voltage do you change when OCing the NB, the CPU/NB offset or that actual NB voltage?


----------



## 66racer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CaliforniaRailRoadGuy*


SOLD OUT

That was quick!









Edit-Amazon has them for $199.99, though it says they ship in 5-6 days-

Amazon.com: AMD FX 8120 8-Core Processor 3.1 8 Socket AM3 - FD8120FRGUBOX: Computers & Accessories


Looks like frys electronics are starting to stock them. Not on their web page but my local store had them which is new because launch week they didnt have anything, think they just got them this week.

8150 was i think $250 and 8120 $220

Local microcenter seems to have the 8120 now too, in store only though
http://www.microcenter.com/search/se...5%2B4294965455


----------



## CaliforniaRailRoadGuy

Cool! The net is the only place for me though, Fry's and Microcenter are both well over 100 miles from my place in Redwood Valley (Mendocino County, Northwestern California).


----------



## CaliforniaRailRoadGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vartok*


stupid question... which voltage do you change when OCing the NB, the CPU/NB offset or that actual NB voltage?


Not stupid, I was wondering the same thing!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok;15505404*
> stupid question... Which voltage do you change when ocing the nb, the cpu/nb offset or that actual nb voltage?


cpu-nb.


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## ORL

Primarily the CPU/NB voltage. But sometimes the actual NB voltage can play some slight stability to this as well.


----------



## CaliforniaRailRoadGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;15506293*


How do I get my Verification official in the list? I tried changing my name in CPUID to the one on here, but it never lists, it will only do it using my PC's name, BladeRunner.


----------



## NBrock

Whats a good voltage to set the cpu/nb at to start for a nb clock of 2600mhz?


----------



## infini

Does it matter in which SATA port do i connect the DVD? I have a DVD-ROM and a DVD Recorder.


----------



## Jamyy10

Hello guys! I bought this motherboard over the weekend so should be here Monday morning.







But i was just wondering, if i remove the heat sink that is covering the VRM's and the chipsets, will i void my warranty?

I want to remove them to replace the thermal paste with some of my Noctua stuff because my old ASUS Crosshair II Formula had dry paste.

I will post some pics and join the club once its installed and running.









PS how easy is it to overclock RAM on this motherboard? Check this link for my question

Also one last thing, i know the coloured SATA ports run on a different chipset or something from the other 2 black ports, what difference does it make if i'm not using any raid arrays or anything and just using 2 hard drives 1 SSD and 1 DVD drive??


----------



## vartok

ok, so i droped my CPU OC down to stock and started playing with the NB.... is there any reason it wouldnt be stable after i bumped the CPU back up? or is my CPU just not as stable as i though? or would it be best to just start from scratch.... man im sounding like such a n00b right now >.>


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infini;15510859*
> Does it matter in which SATA port do i connect the DVD? I have a DVD-ROM and a DVD Recorder.


I have 2 ODDs also, I put them in the SATA 6 Gb/s connectors # 5, and #6. You can set them separately to IDE mode and still have #1-4, be in AHCI and or RAID mode for the HDDs.

This allows you to disable the Jmicron controller and not have that extra time in booting while the Jmicron looks for drives! Who wants a longer boot time?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamyy10;15512120*
> Also one last thing, i know the coloured SATA ports run on a different chipset or something from the other 2 black ports, what difference does it make if i'm not using any raid arrays or anything and just using 2 hard drives 1 SSD and 1 DVD drive??


Plug them all in the colored connector, not the black Jmicron one, just put the ODD on #5 or #6. See above answer.


----------



## infini

I have also disabled the Jmicron controller, but i have connected the DVD and DVD recorder in Sata #2 and #3 both in AHCI mode. Is this right or do you think i might problems?


----------



## Jamyy10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker;15514115*
> I have 2 ODDs also, I put them in the SATA 6 Gb/s connectors # 5, and #6. You can set them separately to IDE mode and still have #1-4, be in AHCI and or RAID mode for the HDDs.
> 
> This allows you to disable the Jmicron controller and not have that extra time in booting while the Jmicron looks for drives! Who wants a longer boot time?
> 
> Plug them all in the colored connector, not the black Jmicron one, just put the ODD on #5 or #6. See above answer.


Nice one, Thanks for the help! my computer is much faster believe it or not








And i only went from 4GB 1066MHz ram to 8GB 1333MHz!

How do i sign up? Just post some pictures of my rig and sign up on the first page?

Look at my little bubba




































Dont worry, its not done yet. I don't have any cables ties because they are in the mail, and i plan on getting some sleeving in the near future to finish my build off.


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamyy10;15520775*
> Nice one, Thanks for the help! my computer is much faster believe it or not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do i sign up? Just post some pictures of my rig and sign up on the first page?


You are welcome.

You must submit a CPU-Z validation using your OCN user name on the submission. See the first post.

Here is what mine looks like, so add me again. I was on the list at some point.


----------



## firestorm1

hey guys, sorry if this has been asked already, but is there a guide floating around on how to set up a raid 0 array with our motherboards. i know the concequences of the raid 0 but i have an image backup, so im not worried if something happens. i want to pick up another 60gb force gt and pair it with the one i already have.

thanks in advance for the assistance.


----------



## sequoia464

If anyone is in the mood for answering another raid question ... I am using the legacy raid drivers, three pairs of SSD's in raid0 - largest is two 128GB drives. In the Bios - I set everything up in legacy raid mode (default) - should I have used UEFI mode??


----------



## Jamyy10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker;15525506*
> You are welcome.
> 
> You must submit a CPU-Z validation using your OCN user name on the submission. See the first post.
> 
> Here is what mine looks like, so add me again. I was on the list at some point.


Oh i see, here is my validation link: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2075433

And here is the banner:


PS, when i was looking at the 1st link i posted, it showed my CPU is running at 3.6GHz instead of 3.4GHz? Has my motherboard overclocked the CPU on its own?


----------



## NBrock

What are some good signs your power supply is maxed out? The voltages not being what they should (ex 12v=11.68 or 5.5v=4.4)?


----------



## vartok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NBrock;15536496*
> What are some good signs your power supply is maxed out? The voltages not being what they should (ex 12v=11.68 or 5.5v=4.4)?


umm... unplug a few things you dont need and see if the voltage goes up? Also i dont know how accurate the readings are, i would confirm with a multi-meter before picking up a new/better PSU

EDIT: one big sign is random crashes and reboots...


----------



## NBrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok;15540750*
> umm... unplug a few things you dont need and see if the voltage goes up? Also i dont know how accurate the readings are, i would confirm with a multi-meter before picking up a new/better PSU
> 
> EDIT: one big sign is random crashes and reboots...


As far as random crashes and reboots... I got nada lol. Runs in prim 95 for well over a day with all the fans going full blast and folding @ home running on my gpus at the same time lol. My older computer has the crash/reboot issue...I may just get a better psu for this one and give the current one to my old system.
Thanks for the feed back.


----------



## Bradford1040

OK well after I got my FX-8150 I just slapped it in over the OS install from the phenom II and all was good for a few days as most on here know(I had great overclocking and stable) But as most OS problems happen a few days after a change over ie.. board switch, copied OS drive to drive ext... This one started to fall apart! I did a fresh install to find I was having all the same probs as you others with the 8120's and so forth, but after going through ALL the Bios'es and installing in almost every different way one can install I found that the service pack 1 of windows 7 was causing problems so installed all but that and so far things are looking up so to recap as I wont be able to jump right back if you have a question I upgraded to the 810 bios and installed all but service pack 1

I will be giving more info after I test some more, I did notice a big diff between the 705 bios and the 810 BTW the 705 had NO none NADA overclocking ability, even the ram was stuck at 1333mhz where the 810 was set at 1840mhz on auto


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


will be giving more info after I test some more, I did notice a big diff between the 705 bios and the 810 BTW the 705 had NO none NADA overclocking ability, even the ram was stuck at 1333mhz where the 810 was set at 1840mhz on auto


looking forward to any more info you might have. Personally not happy with my sebertooth at all. Had a zosma, now a 6100 - can't even get a mild overclock through the bios that is stable.


----------



## CaliforniaRailRoadGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sequoia464*


I'm looking forward to any more info you might have. Personally, I'm not happy with my Sabertooth at all. I had a zosma, now a 6100, and I can't even get a mild overclock through the bios that is stable.


Zosma


----------



## Gyro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CaliforniaRailRoadGuy*


Zosma










X4 960T Zosma= x6 Thuban with 2 cores disabled.http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819103995

Gyro


----------



## firestorm1

is anyone using the thermalright silver arrow with this board? i want to order the SA, but need to be sure there is no clearance issue with the vrm heatsink.

thanks.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sequoia464;15552945*
> looking forward to any more info you might have. Personally not happy with my sebertooth at all. Had a zosma, now a 6100 - can't even get a mild overclock through the bios that is stable.


what Bios are you running? If you are running 705 with the phenom II I really don't know about the OC'ing with that set up but the 402 bios is great for the phenom in fact I was very happy with the 402 and would stay with it, the only thing fixed (haha) in 705 is raid stuff which I don't do anyway, my SSD gets 7.9 on its own so not needed with read speeds of 500mb and random reads of 625mb.

NOW with the new Bulldozer chips GET THE 705 OUT of THERE, it is a OC'ing NIGHTMARE!!!!! I could not get one thing out of stock settings with out major problems in windows 7 64bit even the ram would not run over 1333mhz

The 810 bios which is a BETA (and they mean BETA) lol, is not all that bad for Bulldozer but there are so really finicky settings that must be done so you have any luck to OC'ing the chip! I spent three hole nights screwing around with different settings and tried every way I could to fine a stable way to OC my chip and be Stable, I must say that ASUS is pissing me off right now!!!! I talked to them and even have a case number, and was promised a pre-beta or Alpha Bios to help with there PCI-E problems and the CPU performance problems and with random hangs + lock ups, and ext......

They still have no idea (Remember this board was MADE for the AM3+ = Bulldozer CPU and was launched in June when the CPU was expected to launch with it) About how to fix this bios???? What are they doing???? I see that CH-V just got another bios but it still doesn't fix the problems that are happening on this board as well as all there AM3+ boards!!! What did they test???? ASUS released a statement that the 890 series chip-set will work with the new Bulldozer but the full performance will be unleashed on the 990FX chip-set so what did they test to come up with this statement????


----------



## vartok

ADD ME



I compleatly re did my OC... its a bit lower now, but i got the NB up to 2817MHz (12hrs prime stable) but now im getting fan speed warnings... my 12v rail voltage is still good (between 12 and 12.3v) any thoughts? the warnings are always on one of my 220mm fans


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


what Bios are you running?

NOW with the new Bulldozer chips GET THE 705 OUT of THERE, it is a OC'ing NIGHTMARE!!!!! I could not get one thing out of stock settings with out major problems in windows 7 64bit even the ram would not run over 1333mhz


I'm using the 810 -

Edit: - finally making a bit of headway - got my ram to register correctly and managed a mild overclock on the bus (210).


----------



## CaliforniaRailRoadGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gyro*


X4 960T Zosma= x6 Thuban with 2 cores disabled.http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819103995

Gyro


Ahh, okay, thanks! I thought I had heard all of the code names too


----------



## motokill36

Hi CPU-Z


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *motokill36*


Hi CPU-Z


Welcome!

You have to submit the CPU-Z with your OC.net screen name. See 1st post.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sequoia464*


I'm using the 810 -

Edit: - finally making a bit of headway - got my ram to register correctly and managed a mild overclock on the bus (210).



glad to help, I have ran into many problems with it to, but figured most out, BTW dont try to overclock the cpu/nb yet just leave that on auto. It seems that pushing the cpu/nb will corrupt the OS it seems


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;15574345*
> glad to help, I have ran into many problems with it to, but figured most out, BTW dont try to overclock the cpu/nb yet just leave that on auto. It seems that pushing the cpu/nb will corrupt the OS it seems


Thanks - I shouldn't have any issues then with just increasing the bus then? What have you done with the turbo core - enabled/disabled ?

Stability is paramount for me - this is actually a work machine so I'm going to be fairly conservative with any overclocking.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sequoia464;15577629*
> Thanks - I shouldn't have any issues then with just increasing the bus then? What have you done with the turbo core - enabled/disabled ?
> 
> Stability is paramount for me - this is actually a work machine so I'm going to be fairly conservative with any overclocking.


shoot sorry dam BF3 has me hooked again lol, um turbo core is off I want all 8 always hitting (same would go for if I had 6 core)you know what i mean!

I would never turn the turbo core on IMHO it really is not all that good


----------



## lilkuz2005

a few pics of my new build.


----------



## Jamyy10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilkuz2005;15578295*
> here is my new rig,
> sabertooth 990fx
> amd phenom ii x6 1100t
> 16gb g.skill ddr3 1600
> 2x sapphire radeon hd 6870's crossfired
> 1000watt kigwin laser psu
> 2x 1tb WD hdd's
> scythe mugen 3 cpu cooler
> nzxt 24 led sleaved kit


Nice computer there Lilkuz, you will need to get a CPU-Z validation to join this club then sign up (visit the first page and it will tell you the info, but have you seen the Official CM Storm Scout club? If not click the link, post some pics of your scout and you will be one of the members.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamyy10;15579638*
> Nice computer there Lilkuz, you will need to get a CPU-Z validation to join this club then sign up (visit the first page and it will tell you the info, but have you seen the Official CM Storm Scout club? If not click the link, post some pics of your scout and you will be one of the members.


he knows he is a personal friend of mine I just had him post so I could see the rig he just built


----------



## 66racer

So how do you guys like the sabertooth mobo? Might use one in a build for my cousin? This will be with a x4 955, entry level gaming system. Still sorting out the details, tough one is the $500 budget, no os no gpu included though.


----------



## drizek

I think it and the CH V you have are basically the best AMD motherboards ever, you can't go wrong. The only real downside is the fact that it is an AMD motherboard and AMD cpus aren't all that compelling right now.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drizek;15587246*
> I think it and the CH V you have are basically the best AMD motherboards ever, you can't go wrong. The only real downside is the fact that it is an AMD motherboard and AMD cpus aren't all that compelling right now.


Yeah, but the i3 would be the only intel to buy in the same price and it doesnt have an unlocked multiplier. Im guessing a 955/960T with a high end amd board would beat out a medium grade intel mobo and i3. Only saw one comparison and the x4 980 pretty good stock vs stock, on gaming it needed an overclock to 4.3Ghz to hang with the i3 though lol Im still looking for more 960T gaming results, a few dollars more might be worth it.


----------



## raisethe3

I wanted to buy the 960T since my 560BE doesn't unlock well. It was on sale a while ago, but sold out fast.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer;15587407*
> Yeah, but the i3 would be the only intel to buy in the same price and it doesnt have an unlocked multiplier. Im guessing a 955/960T with a high end amd board would beat out a medium grade intel mobo and i3. Only saw one comparison and the x4 980 pretty good stock vs stock, on gaming it needed an overclock to 4.3Ghz to hang with the i3 though lol Im still looking for more 960T gaming results, a few dollars more might be worth it.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3;15588317*
> I wanted to buy the 960T since my 560BE doesn't unlock well. It was on sale a while ago, but sold out fast.


Yeah newegg is out, guess my cousin will be ready in a week so hopefully its back in stock, i still have to check frys too, they sometimes beat newegg, they price match but needs to be in stock


----------



## raisethe3

Didn't know about that. Might need to check that out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer;15588501*
> Yeah newegg is out, guess my cousin will be ready in a week so hopefully its back in stock, i still have to check frys too, they sometimes beat newegg, *they price match but needs to be in stock*


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3;15588738*
> Didn't know about that. Might need to check that out.


Yeah its great, its why i started shopping there again, their 8120/8150 cpu's are cheaper than newegg too. Sometimes they are a lot cheaper than newegg too, I think they started doing this when newegg started to do commercials


----------



## vartok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok;15564797*
> ADD ME
> 
> 
> 
> I compleatly re did my OC... its a bit lower now, but i got the NB up to 2817MHz (12hrs prime stable) but now im getting fan speed warnings... my 12v rail voltage is still good (between 12 and 12.3v) any thoughts? the warnings are always on one of my 220mm fans


guessing im the only one?


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:



Originally Posted by *raisethe3*


I wanted to buy the 960T since my 560BE doesn't unlock well. It was on sale a while ago, but sold out fast.


I have a 960T as well as a 6100 FX - haven't been able to unlock the 960T yet on my sabertooth. Not sure yet which one I will keep in my main machine.

Prior to these I had a 555 unlocked running four cores with a mild overclock and zero issues. Have struggled with both the 960T and the 6100 with any settings other than stock. Probably mistakes that I'm making, but I have never had as many issues trying to overclock. Considering getting a Gigabytes board.


----------



## raisethe3

You should try benching both your chips and see which is faster/better.

I am willing to bet the 960T will pull ahead.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sequoia464*


I have a 960T as well as a 6100 FX - haven't been able to unlock the 960T yet on my sabertooth. Not sure yet which one I will keep in my main machine.

Prior to these I had a 555 unlocked running four cores with a mild overclock and zero issues. Have struggled with both the 960T and the 6100 with any settings other than stock. Probably mistakes that I'm making, but I have never had as many issues trying to overclock. Considering getting a Gigabytes board.


----------



## lilkuz2005

i personally love the sabertooth 990fx, lots of good features, the UEFI bios is awesome. up to 4 graphics cards in SLI or Crossfire. great LAN and sound card built in. 4 dimm slots for memory. it overclocks pretty well. to much to list to be honest. i think its the best board ive ever used


----------



## Elgato425

After much consideration, I've purchased a SABERTOOTH 990FX. I have an AMD-FX8150 processor and also 16GB of Corsair Vengeance CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9 RAM. Power supply is a Cooler Master Silent Pro M 700 watt. Video card is an ATI HD5770 1GB. So It's nice for an old fart like me.

WARNING: Problem on setup: out of the box, the BIOS version is 0420 which does not support the new Bulldozer FX-8150. So I was lucky to "borrow" a friends earlier AMD CPU socket AM3 and boot up my system inorder to flash the BIOS. I d/l the 0810 beta version from ASUS as I was concerned the 0705 might not pick up the new bulldozer series.

So up and running to test. The BIOS is cool. I'm getting a Kingston SSD tomorrow and will install Win764 and see how quick it loads etc.

Is it weird that I want to name "her"?

Elgato


----------



## raisethe3

Um...if I am not mistaken, Sabertooth only supports 3-way SLI. Unless you're using a dual-gpu card which can support SLI (may be counted as 4-way I guess...I don't know.)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilkuz2005;15594490*
> i personally love the sabertooth 990fx, lots of good features, the UEFI bios is awesome. up to 4 graphics cards in SLI or Crossfire. great LAN and sound card built in. 4 dimm slots for memory. it overclocks pretty well. to much to list to be honest. i think its the best board ive ever used


----------



## lilkuz2005

im using 2 sapphire radeon hd 6970's in crossfire and i dont have room in my storm scout case for another card, but it does have 3 pci-e x16 and one pci-e x4
Supports NVIDIA® Quad-GPU SLI™ Technology
Supports AMD Quad-GPU CrossFireX™ Technolog


----------



## crust_cheese

How's this for an overclock?

CPU/NB is at ~3000 MHz @ ~1.3V.


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3;15593960*
> You should try benching both your chips and see which is faster/better.
> 
> I am willing to bet the 960T will pull ahead.


You are probably correct. I got the BD because one of the tests that I saw shows some pretty good results for excel - this is a work machine - so for my usage it seems like a good fit.

Excel results ... http://www.techspot.com/review/452-amd-bulldozer-fx-cpus/page8.html


----------



## raisethe3

Very nice!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crust_cheese;15597401*
> How's this for an overclock?
> 
> CPU/NB is at ~3000 MHz @ ~1.3V.


If apps are your main focus, then Bulldozer will show some performance difference if I am not mistaken. Maybe not too much of a difference though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sequoia464;15597924*
> You are probably correct. I got the BD because one of the tests that I saw shows some pretty good results for excel - this is a work machine - so for my usage it seems like a good fit.
> 
> Excel results ... http://www.techspot.com/review/452-amd-bulldozer-fx-cpus/page8.html


----------



## Bradford1040

backed down the clock and up'ed the cpu/nb again(crossing fingers) and now playing with memory timings which this so far seems to be about the best of all worlds

I will retract what I said about this thing and heat once you get it over 1.42 it starts cooking after 1 hour stress testing it got to 60c!!!! Now my LLC was extreme at 110% and volts where at 1.43 in bios and 1.48~50 in cpu-z! I am not using Indigo Extreme yet on this chip so that mite be a small factor as I seen a drop of 5~7c with it on the phenom II and another drop of 2~4c with Lapping it. I have not Lapped this chip yet and I am only using normal TIM (good stuff) but still not like Indigo so that mite help.

To get up to 4.9+ you are going to need a good PSU and GREAT watercooling from what I have seen, I mite redo my TIM but I have not messed up a install on that in years so not expecting a big difference


----------



## NBrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;15608163*
> backed down the clock and up'ed the cpu/nb again(crossing fingers) and now playing with memory timings which this so far seems to be about the best of all worlds
> 
> I will retract what I said about this thing and heat once you get it over 1.42 it starts cooking after 1 hour stress testing it got to 60c!!!! Now my LLC was extreme at 110% and volts where at 1.43 in bios and 1.48~50 in cpu-z! I am not using Indigo Extreme yet on this chip so that mite be a small factor as I seen a drop of 5~7c with it on the phenom II and another drop of 2~4c with Lapping it. I have not Lapped this chip yet and I am only using normal TIM (good stuff) but still not like Indigo so that mite help.
> 
> To get up to 4.9+ you are going to need a good PSU and GREAT watercooling from what I have seen, I mite redo my TIM but I have not messed up a install on that in years so not expecting a big difference


What kind of voltage do you recommend starting at for a nb clock of 2600+ and what are max temps you recommend for that.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NBrock;15608802*
> What kind of voltage do you recommend starting at for a nb clock of 2600+ and what are max temps you recommend for that.


I tried all things I used to know and just seems like I am a idiot when it comes to OC'ing this new chip, like everything I knew just out the window lol. I have my NB at well I uploaded a Aida64 screen shot and volts I left on Auto for that in fact left on auto for most things lol I set the cpu volts to 1.38~1.39 and I set the pci-e volts to 1.16 plus I set the LLC to extreme and 110% on both and extreme and auto on volt thing under that lol (forgot name duh)

I did get some good scores with this clock but it was not 100% stable and it really was HOT HOT HOT 

Wanted to add a few benchmarks of FPS with BD, all the settings are maxed out plus I get great fps in BF3!!! I wish they had a bench for that game


----------



## NBrock

Question for you guys. I was looking into the Indigo Extreme stuff and was wondering how would you get it to re-flow on an AMD chip? It says it needs to hit 90*c!!! The Max recommended from AMD is 61-65*c.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NBrock;15611998*
> Question for you guys. I was looking into the Indigo Extreme stuff and was wondering how would you get it to re-flow on an AMD chip? It says it needs to hit 90*c!!! The Max recommended from AMD is 61-65*c.


The specs are different for the AMD set of indigo extreme! The spec sheet is written for the Intel one trust me the AMD one reflows at 55~61 and it is weird but no harm will come to the chip during the set up promise!!! I have done it a few times and it does work much better than all TIM's


----------



## 66racer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*


I tried all things I used to know and just seems like I am a idiot when it comes to OC'ing this new chip, like everything I knew just out the window lol. I have my NB at well I uploaded a Aida64 screen shot and volts I left on Auto for that in fact left on auto for most things lol I set the cpu volts to 1.38~1.39 and I set the pci-e volts to 1.16 plus I set the LLC to extreme and 110% on both and extreme and auto on volt thing under that lol (forgot name duh)

I did get some good scores with this clock but it was not 100% stable and it really was HOT HOT HOT 

Wanted to add a few benchmarks of FPS with BD, all the settings are maxed out plus I get great fps in BF3!!! I wish they had a bench for that game


Wish they did too! would be a good one. I went through the same thing when overclocking the FX. It likes things the phenom II didnt like and other way around too


----------



## firestorm1

hey guys. can someone tell me how to set up a raid array with this board. i set my sata ports to raid and rebooted. then hit ctrl+f once it says to. once im in, there is no option to set anything up.

thanks.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer;15612902*
> Wish they did too! would be a good one. I went through the same thing when overclocking the FX. It likes things the phenom II didnt like and other way around too


DAM!!! Are those sig specs 24/7? nice clock on that 1100T if so!

I have had to learn OC'ing all over again, just like the switch from Intel to AMD! At first I just popped out the 970BE and in went the FX and it was easy as pie.

BUTTTT 3 or so days later (lol always takes that long and I have no idea why?) The instability crap in the OS started! Just like if I swapped boards (which I still find funny that most think you don't need to do a fresh install for that) but I have tried it many times lol!

I did the fresh install and from there I got nightmare after nightmare! 8 fresh installs later, I figured out a few things and got me a stable system at a good clock with low volts. But with a better bios and as I said earlier Indigo Extreme and some Lapping I think I can get my target I wanted in the first place which was 5.3ghz!

At 5ghz I was killing the 2600k even when I clocked higher than the FX chip, there were benches that the 2600K beat it at but by very little, and as far a gaming which is my thing it is KING of the heap even at sig clocks! I hope to get the temps down under load as it would be the Intel killer as they promised it would be! (as far as Sandy Bridge goes)

I think that 5.3 would even give the 990X a run for its money but I doubt ever beat it! That 990X OC'ed is one bad chip, I know the Sandy guys say the 2600K can beat it but I really don't see it! Price wise hell yeah, but oc'ed vs oc'ed um the 990X scores in benches what some twin xeon's score and, with the way windows 8 is looking AMD is on the right track with multi threading as windows 8 is all multi threaded not one single threaded app


----------



## Bradford1040

BTW sorry for double post here but I have said about the BIOS being crap about 20 times if anyone knows where I can get a updated bios let me know ASAP I have 402,705,810beta so don't tell me about any of those just new ones that maybe have not hit the ASUS site as I seen when the 705 came out some knew about it before it even hit ASUS's site


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elgato425;15594749*
> After much consideration, I've purchased a SABERTOOTH 990FX. I have an AMD-FX8150 processor and also 16GB of Corsair Vengeance CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9 RAM. Power supply is a Cooler Master Silent Pro M 700 watt. Video card is an ATI HD5770 1GB. So It's nice for an old fart like me.
> 
> WARNING: Problem on setup: out of the box, the BIOS version is 0420 which does not support the new Bulldozer FX-8150. So I was lucky to "borrow" a friends earlier AMD CPU socket AM3 and boot up my system inorder to flash the BIOS. I d/l the 0810 beta version from ASUS as I was concerned the 0705 might not pick up the new bulldozer series.
> 
> So up and running to test. The BIOS is cool. I'm getting a Kingston SSD tomorrow and will install Win764 and see how quick it loads etc.
> 
> Is it weird that I want to name "her"?
> 
> Elgato


You need to have a CPU-Z validation BTW just adding your post to the validation is not proof

ALL OTHERS I UPDATED IF EVERYTHING WAS RIGHT AND LEFT NOTES ON ONES THAT AREN'T


----------



## Elgato425

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;15614466*
> You need to have a CPU-Z validation BTW just adding your post to the validation is not proof
> 
> ALL OTHERS I UPDATED IF EVERYTHING WAS RIGHT AND LEFT NOTES ON ONES THAT AREN'T


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2088653

Will this work?

Thanks

Elgato


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elgato425;15627385*
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2088653
> 
> Will this work?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Elgato


sadly no sorry almost though, before you hit validate you need to go to the last tab "About" then go down to validation and change your name in the top to your OCN name, sorry but pretty much every thread does it this way and there is a good reason. but once you have done it that way your in


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1;15613512*
> hey guys. can someone tell me how to set up a raid array with this board. i set my sata ports to raid and rebooted. then hit ctrl+f once it says to. once im in, there is no option to set anything up.
> 
> thanks.


DAM A Local lol, where you at?

sorry about setting up your raid question getting passed over, Hey guys help him out!!! I never set one up on this board I had Butterz for my info on that one, but he is in the middle of moving to a different state (with better mental care lol)


----------



## firestorm1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;15628106*
> DAM A Local lol, where you at?
> 
> sorry about setting up your raid question getting passed over, Hey guys help him out!!! I never set one up on this board I had Butterz for my info on that one, but he is in the middle of moving to a different state (with better mental care lol)


im in prince george.

i already figured out the raid setup. aparently i was doing it wrong







.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1;15628134*
> im in prince george.
> 
> i already figured out the raid setup. aparently i was doing it wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Sorry we didn't help unless you went back in the thread as it has been explained a few times,,

I am in VA Beach, you ever get down this way?


----------



## Elgato425

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;15627943*
> sadly no sorry almost though, before you hit validate you need to go to the last tab "About" then go down to validation and change your name in the top to your OCN name, sorry but pretty much every thread does it this way and there is a good reason. but once you have done it that way your in


Hmmm, yes I see your point. (Duh on my part) Hope this works.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2088733

Wondering: I'm using 16 GB of Vengeance 1600 RAM which is on the Sabertooth 990FX approved list but the speed can come up in the BIOS as 1333 (in default/auto settings) I know that the BIOS is a beta version to get the Bulldozer CPU to work and but will the next release of the BIOS release will come out fix this? If I remember correctly, the board is 1600 compatible but o.c. is not required at this speed.

Thank you.
Elgato425 in Kamloops, BC


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elgato425;15628802*
> Hmmm, yes I see your point. (Duh on my part) Hope this works.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2088733
> 
> Wondering: I'm using 16 GB of Vengeance 1600 RAM which is on the Sabertooth 990FX approved list but the speed can come up in the BIOS as 1333 (in default/auto settings) I know that the BIOS is a beta version to get the Bulldozer CPU to work and but will the next release of the BIOS release will come out fix this? If I remember correctly, the board is 1600 compatible but o.c. is not required at this speed.
> 
> Thank you.
> Elgato425 in Kamloops, BC


Ok thats done now! Welcome!!

I have to tell you that all ram on every board with auto to 1333mhz you have to set it to ram specs manually on every board that I know of! Know you and I I think are the only 8150's on the thread!

I need to know what you have for cooling and what your plans are and where do you want your system to be?


----------



## firestorm1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040;15628181*
> Sorry we didn't help unless you went back in the thread as it has been explained a few times,,
> 
> I am in VA Beach, you ever get down this way?


im normally down there a few times a year.


----------



## firestorm1

might as well add me to the list too.








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2088890


----------



## Tweeky

I'm Back ::
Any one else out there ???
Where is every one ???
Is every one lost but me ???
I can't find no one !!!


----------



## pinkfloyd48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elgato425*
> 
> Hmmm, yes I see your point. (Duh on my part) Hope this works.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2088733
> 
> Wondering: I'm using 16 GB of Vengeance 1600 RAM which is on the Sabertooth 990FX approved list but the speed can come up in the BIOS as 1333 (in default/auto settings) I know that the BIOS is a beta version to get the Bulldozer CPU to work and but will the next release of the BIOS release will come out fix this? If I remember correctly, the board is 1600 compatible but o.c. is not required at this speed.
> 
> Thank you.
> Elgato425 in Kamloops, BC


If you hit DOCP in the bios the right settings will appear to run it at 1600


----------



## infini

I don't know if this is related to my Sabertooth 990FX: I bought today the Dell U2412M monitor and when using the displayport cable, it takes about 15 seconds until the POST screen shows up. My graphics card is this: http://www.sapphiretech.com/presentation/product/?cid=1&gid=3&sgid=1088&pid=1240&psn=&lid=1&leg=0.


----------



## pwnography6

Finally got my motherboard on water. (First in the world as far as I know) Go check it out here...http://www.overclock.net/t/1067147/bloodlines-alien-inspired-haf-x-completed/20


----------



## Gyro

I don't want to panic you ,but shouldn't the VRM sink be on the VRM's.

st vrm.jpg 384k .jpg file


Gyro


----------



## pwnography6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gyro*
> 
> I don't want to panic you ,but shouldn't the VRM sink be on the VRM's.
> 
> st vrm.jpg 384k .jpg file
> 
> Gyro


LOL yeah just had it pointed out to me elsewhere Il get onto it isnt a major issue at the moment turns out im getting better temps than I was even like this . HAHA. Thanks anyways. It will teach me to rig watercooling after midnight without red bull.


----------



## Jamyy10

Can you guys give me some tips on how to overclock my 1333MHz RAM to 1600MHz?

Also, sleeving pics are going to be up soon


----------



## vartok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamyy10*
> 
> Can you guys give me some tips on how to overclock my 1333MHz RAM to 1600MHz?
> Also, sleeving pics are going to be up soon


did you buy 1600 RAM and its just set to 1333, or do you actually have 1333. If you bought 1600 then you just go into the BIOS, go into advanced mode and there will be a drop down of the ram speeds. dont forget to make sure the timings and voltages are set to manufactures specs.


----------



## Jamyy10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> did you buy 1600 RAM and its just set to 1333, or do you actually have 1333. If you bought 1600 then you just go into the BIOS, go into advanced mode and there will be a drop down of the ram speeds. dont forget to make sure the timings and voltages are set to manufactures specs.


My RAM is 1333MHz, but i would like to overclock it to 1600MHz.


----------



## THC Butterz

I know its not lave at this time on the linked site, but is the 0903 bios avalible for saber yet, i know thread users tend to find it before its release


----------



## firestorm1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> I know its not lave at this time on the linked site, but is the 0903 bios avalible for saber yet, i know thread users tend to find it before its release


i havent heard anything about the bios update.


----------



## Bradford1040

I have to say I am not 100% liking the new OCN set up, I am just a creature of habit so it will be some time before I get used to it.

But the 903 bios just came out for the CH-V yesterday which it seems that the CH-V is about 4 days ahead of sabertooth's bios releases, so hope in 3 more days we will have a better FX bios!!!! About F'n time ASUS!

The board was only made special for the FX-Chips and released in June so by November you would think they had a bios for it?

One thing I am still seeing allot of is FX-bashing from Intel fan-boys! I never understand that???? Why bash ether one?

I have found out another problem with my system and why I was not able to get past 4.73ghz stable POWER!!! My 850watt PSU is just not able to push out enough or the EPS plug just is set to low on over current protection,
I get up to 5+ghz and it seems fine but just shuts off randomly which I must of just been stupid that day not to think about it, Now I have another PSU and was thinking of hooking it up to power just the board and the 850 the cards
or I have a raidmax 1000watt PSU that I got from Butterz which I was going to open up and resoder the connections which seem to be the only thing wrong with the raidmax's reviews! I have one running my Q9550 at 4ghz and three GTX 260's
fine for about 4 months now so it mite just be fine on it own but couldn't hurt to check it. I mite get more out of the FX-8150 if the power goes up enough, or maybe the bios is the problem ether way I am going to find it out lol


----------



## BulletsLikeBlades

I picked up one of these to run with my TWKR ES but I heard those aren't good for air cooling ocing' .. so I'm thinking to switch this up to a 960T pending on how well it'll unlock the extra cores.. otherwise 8150 will be the pick..

so, how well do these unlock the extra cores of cpus?


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*
> 
> I have to say I am not 100% liking the new OCN set up, I am just a creature of habit so it will be some time before I get used to it.
> But the 903 bios just came out for the CH-V yesterday which it seems that the CH-V is about 4 days ahead of sabertooth's bios releases, so hope in 3 more days we will have a better FX bios!!!! About F'n time ASUS!
> The board was only made special for the FX-Chips and released in June so by November you would think they had a bios for it?
> One thing I am still seeing allot of is FX-bashing from Intel fan-boys! I never understand that???? Why bash ether one?
> I have found out another problem with my system and why I was not able to get past 4.73ghz stable POWER!!! My 850watt PSU is just not able to push out enough or the EPS plug just is set to low on over current protection,
> I get up to 5+ghz and it seems fine but just shuts off randomly which I must of just been stupid that day not to think about it, Now I have another PSU and was thinking of hooking it up to power just the board and the 850 the cards
> or I have a raidmax 1000watt PSU that I got from Butterz which I was going to open up and resoder the connections which seem to be the only thing wrong with the raidmax's reviews! I have one running my Q9550 at 4ghz and three GTX 260's
> fine for about 4 months now so it mite just be fine on it own but couldn't hurt to check it. I mite get more out of the FX-8150 if the power goes up enough, or maybe the bios is the problem ether way I am going to find it out lol


Man let us know if its psu related, I switched to the ax850 today for a more dependable psu from the gs800, but if the 850 isnt enough for current fx and future fx chips I may need to return and get the hx1050 or ax1200 lol (i like corsair)


----------



## firestorm1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Man let us know if its psu related, I switched to the ax850 today for a more dependable psu from the gs800, but if the 850 isnt enough for current fx and future fx chips I may need to return and get the hx1050 or ax1200 lol (i like corsair)


its the psu. at the clocks he is running plus those 2 460's, 850w just aint going to cut it. iirc, the 8150 can pull over 400w at full load when oc'ed that high. also those video cards are eating up that psu too. the 400 series were power hungry. then you have to take into consideration whatever else he has running in his rig. so yea, a 1kw should do the job.


----------



## WeirdHarold

First off sorry for posting in here when I don't own the board, but if you answer my question in the way I'm hoping I will most likely be an owner soon. Sorry also that the question is well stupid in a way but can any of you tell me what this board looks like under blue light as all of the lighting in my system is Blue and I really don't want to buy all new fans and so one if I decide on this board? Thanks ahead of time for any help that any of you can give me.


----------



## firestorm1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> First off sorry for posting in here when I don't own the board, but if you answer my question in the way I'm hoping I will most likely be an owner soon. Sorry also that the question is well stupid in a way but can any of you tell me what this board looks like under blue light as all of the lighting in my system is Blue and I really don't want to buy all new fans and so one if I decide on this board? Thanks ahead of time for any help that any of you can give me.


the sb and vrm heatsink will looks a little darker. but as for the board itself, unless your putting in a cathode or led kit, itll pretty much remain the same.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> First off sorry for posting in here when I don't own the board, but if you answer my question in the way I'm hoping I will most likely be an owner soon. Sorry also that the question is well stupid in a way but can any of you tell me what this board looks like under blue light as all of the lighting in my system is Blue and I really don't want to buy all new fans and so one if I decide on this board? Thanks ahead of time for any help that any of you can give me.
> 
> 
> 
> the sb and vrm heatsink will looks a little darker. but as for the board itself, unless your putting in a cathode or led kit, itll pretty much remain the same.
Click to expand...

I will be putting in something in the way of either an LED kit of Cathode kit or possibly a combo of the 2 in some way shape or form, but mostly just wanted to make sure it wasn't going to change the coloring in some strange way that would make it look really awkward or ugly? Thanks for such a quick response +rep


----------



## LongLasting

i soon will post pictures of my sabertooth that i have!


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LongLasting*
> 
> i soon will post pictures of my sabertooth that i have!


What color is your case lighting?


----------



## LongLasting

White color i have the corsair 600t white, and it comes with white lights already


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LongLasting*
> 
> White color i have the corsair 600t white, and it comes with white lights already


Oh well, it was worth asking I'd just really love to see some pics of this board under blue light the more the better


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> its the psu. at the clocks he is running plus those 2 460's, 850w just aint going to cut it. iirc, the 8150 can pull over 400w at full load when oc'ed that high. also those video cards are eating up that psu too. the 400 series were power hungry. then you have to take into consideration whatever else he has running in his rig. so yea, a 1kw should do the job.


Gez, considering I can still return my ax850 for the 1200 would it be a good idea to do so now to not have to upgrade in the future? I dont think I will need the power of 1KW plus for more than a year unless water cooling and 570gtx sli will require more than the 850. It looks like its an approved sli psu for 570gtx but i would have everything overclocked.


----------



## firestorm1

when dealing with the overkill on power supplies, especially the ax1200, i like to think it has the same principles as a condom. id rather have it and not need it, then need it and not have it.


----------



## vartok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Oh well, it was worth asking I'd just really love to see some pics of this board under blue light the more the better


you cant see too much of the board, but hey, its blue....



the metal fram you see in the pic is my desk, thats as far as i could pull it out with out unplugging stuffs


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> when dealing with the overkill on power supplies, especially the ax1200, i like to think it has the same principles as a condom. id rather have it and not need it, then need it and not have it.


LOL good point, Guess I might be returning it soon haha, thankfully frys has no restocking fee and the corsair lineup of psu's at the lowest price


----------



## Bradford1040

I have to get this thread back to the way I like it lol, I want the newest post first and can't seem to find the switch for that option!!!

But back to the power thing, I am pretty sure the 850 is not big enough to OC it past 4.8ghz with all the other things I got tugging on it already!

I think I am going to fix up that 1000watt in the next few days and see for sure if the 1000 alone can pull it off
I still am thinking of grabbing a 1200watt just because but as I want so many things right now and not enough cash to get it all
I will do the old stuff first, I wish I was made of money lol!!!! I don't see where I need over 4.8 right now, BUT it does get much better
everything the higher this thing goes, when at 5ghz (before the PSU would shut it down) I was beating the I7 2600K's butt
I was even getting great numbers against the 980X so if I wanted to and could figure out how to cool this chip, I think it would beat all of them with ease
Just needs some TLC on keeping it cool and feeding it with a power plant lol like a 1000watt or better


----------



## AccellGarage

UPDATE ST990FX TUF

http://www.multiupload.com/FLMIJ7S3VO

pass protect : microcode


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*
> 
> I have to get this thread back to the way I like it lol, I want the newest post first and can't seem to find the switch for that option!!!
> But back to the power thing, I am pretty sure the 850 is not big enough to OC it past 4.8ghz with all the other things I got tugging on it already!
> I think I am going to fix up that 1000watt in the next few days and see for sure if the 1000 alone can pull it off
> I still am thinking of grabbing a 1200watt just because but as I want so many things right now and not enough cash to get it all
> I will do the old stuff first, I wish I was made of money lol!!!! I don't see where I need over 4.8 right now, BUT it does get much better
> everything the higher this thing goes, when at 5ghz (before the PSU would shut it down) I was beating the I7 2600K's butt
> I was even getting great numbers against the 980X so if I wanted to and could figure out how to cool this chip, I think it would beat all of them with ease
> Just needs some TLC on keeping it cool and feeding it with a power plant lol like a 1000watt or better


Nice dude, What benchmarks are you using? Also how has it done in gaming for you? Any fps increase? for curiosity sake any wprime numbers for 8 cores?

I know this would be such a bad thing to say BUT what if you took a gpu out just for the sake of cooling the cpu to see if you can get it to stay cool? Then put the other gpu back in and lower clocks till you can upgrade cooling.

I wish I had space for this but Im thinking of how I can make use with a larger resivour, like fish tank larger. Fishtanks usually look nice so it wouldnt be an eyesore (of course no fish inside lol) and with that large source of water could take A LONG time before it got warm, ambient room temp would help cool it further than what the radiators could do too.

Just an example 46gallon, super nice looking:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/46-Gallon-Bow-Front-Aquarium-/180754190739?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a15ca1193

5 gallon coffee table fish tank, can even have the pc on top lol:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOVELY-Coffee-Table-Furniture-24-Fish-Tank-AQUARIUM-/200328437083?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ea4815d5b

practical 10gallon tank (what i would probably try)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Basic-Aquarium-Glass-Fish-tank-empty-10-gallon-/160681431473?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25695c11b1

or for those of us on a budget








http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100087613/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053


----------



## n9nu

Hi

I noticed you have BIOS version 0813 listed there and was wondering if that was some soft of update to the beta BIOS version 0810 which is listed on the Asus USA download site.

Tnx

Tim


----------



## 66racer

Hey Brad--

Yeah your right the psu isnt enough, in a link below they had the 8150 at 4.8Ghz and system had a gtx590, durring prime small FFT test they pulled 580WATTS!!! Thats with the gpu's obviously not being used much at all either! I will deffinetly be returning the ax850 for a ax1200, I really want to give the fx-series another try, just time to step everything up.

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cpus/2011/10/12/amd-fx-8150-review/10

This one includes SB-E
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cpus/2011/11/14/intel-sandy-bridge-e-review/10


----------



## reaver83

I hate to post on threads that I have nothing that they are talking about, but I would love to know what they are using in those reviews to test peak wattage. I'm thinking now that maybe the instability of my OC's was my power supply overloaded, since it is only a 650W PSU. you guys have any ideas for programs to check this?


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> I hate to post on threads that I have nothing that they are talking about, but I would love to know what they are using in those reviews to test peak wattage. I'm thinking now that maybe the instability of my OC's was my power supply overloaded, since it is only a 650W PSU. you guys have any ideas for programs to check this?


I have wanted to get one but home depot and lowes sell these plugs that go on your wall outlet, it reads the power consumption of whatever is pluged into it, they are cheap from what people told me, all this psu talk I think im gonna get one this week.

But yeah dude 580watts on prime testing, cpu watts might go down a bit durring gaming since prime is a killer but now the gpu kicks in thus that 580watt consumption in those tests will become a lot higher depending on the video card(s) used.


----------



## firestorm1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AccellGarage*
> 
> UPDATE ST990FX TUF
> 
> http://www.multiupload.com/FLMIJ7S3VO
> 
> pass protect : microcode


whats the change log with that bios? im still on 0810.


----------



## vartok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> I have wanted to get one but home depot and lowes sell these plugs that go on your wall outlet, it reads the power consumption of whatever is pluged into it, they are cheap from what people told me, all this psu talk I think im gonna get one this week.


Its called "Kill A Watt" you can find them online for around $20 USD. Its a basic version of what testers use.... now this reads actuall AC power usage, not what your PSU is using. Since no PSU is 100% efficiant, you will be pulling more watts at the outlet that your PC us using on the DC side.

Example, you have a 1000w PSU that is rated 80% (standard for most PSUs now a days) and your rig pulls every bit of that. At the wall you could be pulling up to 1200w. now you should never pull 100% of any PSU, but this was just an example and thouse numbers make for easy maths ^.^


----------



## LongLasting

quick question i also have sabertooth and i 1090t 19 x multiplyer and vcore vots stable it seems at 1.4 volts.. do i need to move any other voltage around? can i leave every other voltage besides *cpu Manuel voltage* ? thanks let me know. and i will soon take pics so i can join the club


----------



## theamdman

Does anyone have a SS IN THE BIOS of a phenom ii x4 965 OC'ed to 4.0 cus i get bsods and need help. tryed cranking da v core to 1.43 still bsod. Seams stable at 1.368 but get a memory management error.


----------



## theamdman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LongLasting*
> 
> quick question i also have sabertooth and i 1090t 19 x multiplyer and vcore vots stable it seems at 1.4 volts.. do i need to move any other voltage around? can i leave every other voltage besides *cpu Manuel voltage* ? thanks let me know. and i will soon take pics so i can join the club


Do some stress testing.

Prime 95, Intel Burn test , Linpack based LinX etc.


----------



## ht_addict

I was wondering if anyone has a FX8150 installed. If your overclocking it can you give me some pointers on what settings in the BIOS to play with. And maybe post your settings. Thanks


----------



## firestorm1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict*
> 
> I was wondering if anyone has a FX8150 installed. If your overclocking it can you give me some pointers on what settings in the BIOS to play with. And maybe post your settings. Thanks


watch this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9IR1l9nGe4o

is done on the chV. but its pretty much the same exact settings youll use on the sabertooth.


----------



## theamdman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theamdman*
> 
> Does anyone have a SS IN THE BIOS of a phenom ii x4 965 OC'ed to 4.0 cus i get bsods and need help. tryed cranking da v core to 1.43 still bsod. Seams stable at 1.368 but get a memory management error.


Should i just make a thread?


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> whats the change log with that bios? im still on 0810.


Did you ever get an answer on the change log for this 813 bios? I think I'm waiting until ASUS posts it.


----------



## firestorm1

nope. havent heard a thing.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> Its called "Kill A Watt" you can find them online for around $20 USD. Its a basic version of what testers use.... now this reads actuall AC power usage, not what your PSU is using. Since no PSU is 100% efficiant, you will be pulling more watts at the outlet that your PC us using on the DC side.
> Example, you have a 1000w PSU that is rated 80% (standard for most PSUs now a days) and your rig pulls every bit of that. At the wall you could be pulling up to 1200w. now you should never pull 100% of any PSU, but this was just an example and thouse numbers make for easy maths ^.^


thanks, that confirms what I have been reading. Yeah I kinda feel that people are throwing around the "that psu will handle it no problem" to easily now a days. They arent taking into account that you dont want the psu at 100% lol. The more I read the more it confirms my choice on 1200watt psu. Reading sli 570/580 reviews and watching the power consumption and comparing to cpu power consumption reviews, not to mention I will be overclocking everything and at least cpu on water and NO 850 isnt enough unless I want to be at 90-100% use and cause instability or kill the psu prematurely. Besides the efficiency is greatest around 50% it seems, I would like to keep my psu around 70% use. Now Im not claiming to be an expert, im just reading a lot right now, so CORRECT ME IF IM WRONG







I dont want to spread internet BS.

Dam this is off topic sorry guys, but figure it goes with our overclock stability which includes the motherboard performance








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LongLasting*
> 
> quick question i also have sabertooth and i 1090t 19 x multiplyer and vcore vots stable it seems at 1.4 volts.. do i need to move any other voltage around? can i leave every other voltage besides *cpu Manuel voltage* ? thanks let me know. and i will soon take pics so i can join the club


so basically 3.8Ghz? your probably fine, but yes stress test it, you MIGHT even be able to go lower on voltage. Once you dial that in the cpu-nb will add a snappy feel to windows when thats overclocked, im at 3000mhz but work your way up slow, for 3.8Ghz for proper scaling i think people would like to see 2400mhz cpu-nb but the 1090/1100 can easily do 2800, max of 3000-3200 if your lucky. Also you might be able to get as much as 4200-4500mhz on the cpu if you have good cooling
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict*
> 
> I was wondering if anyone has a FX8150 installed. If your overclocking it can you give me some pointers on what settings in the BIOS to play with. And maybe post your settings. Thanks


bradford is your man, he has been working on this a while now, sure he will chime in soon


----------



## Kvjavs

So what would be the advantages of buying this board over the Crosshair V Formula, and vice versa? I'm wanting to get one of the two boards this weekend, but can't figure out if the price difference is worth it to buy the Crosshair over the Sabertooth, because so far to me it just seems that it comes with the X-Fi 2 Codec and nothing else of importance.


----------



## AccellGarage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> whats the change log with that bios? im still on 0810.


CPU code update for FX, Improves and stability.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theamdman*
> 
> Does anyone have a SS IN THE BIOS of a phenom ii x4 965 OC'ed to 4.0 cus i get bsods and need help. tryed cranking da v core to 1.43 still bsod. Seams stable at 1.368 but get a memory management error.


So what you did raise FSB and NB Clock, If NB clock up and tweak ur ram manual DOCP and set max timing. Dont up ur voltage RAM are high 1.8v, stay 1.65/1.68.v


----------



## dimwit13

quick question.
i am having a problem running my ram at the native 1600 1.5v-sig rig system.
should i up my volts?
would 1.6 be safe?
i just finished my system and started tweeking it and have some more questions.
once i get my ducks in a row i will join this club, been following it for a while and i like what i see-maturity.

-dimwit-


----------



## ht_addict

I downloaded the Asus Suite of software so as to use be able to OC in Windows. Only problem is it won't install. ANyone else use it or have issues?


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> quick question.
> i am having a problem running my ram at the native 1600 1.5v-sig rig system.
> should i up my volts?
> would 1.6 be safe?
> i just finished my system and started tweeking it and have some more questions.
> once i get my ducks in a row i will join this club, been following it for a while and i like what i see-maturity.
> -dimwit-


I just went through this with my cousins build, vengence 1.5v 1600 memory, I needed to give it 1.6 to be stable. We just got it together the other day and he isnt a power user but I will probably do more tweeking later this week on it. I believe i read once that intel 1.5v might work fine with their memory controllers or whatever but amd might need more.


----------



## LongLasting

i have completed a stable 3.8 stable over clock.. with a 1090t cpu. I plan to over clock more after i fix a problem . I set my Vcore to 1.4 volts but it seems to idle at .1404 and it may go up with stressing it playing games or test.. For example 1.428>?? or mybe higher... Can somone give me advice to not allow my vcore to move at all if possible?

specs: 1090t , sabertooth, vengence ram etc


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> I just went through this with my cousins build, vengence 1.5v 1600 memory, I needed to give it 1.6 to be stable. We just got it together the other day and he isnt a power user but I will probably do more tweeking later this week on it. I believe i read once that intel 1.5v might work fine with their memory controllers or whatever but amd might need more.


thanks, i will give it a try this weekend-i am going to push this system as far as i can.

-dimwit-

what part of cali you from? i lived ther for 29 years.


----------



## 66racer

cool, yeah im gonna be keepig my eye on it though, im probably going to call corsair about it too, as well as run memtest 86+ to make sure its stable

Im in so cal, dont really want to blast the city online but san gabriel valley


----------



## raisethe3

Umm...thermal radar which you can keep track or pin-point temperature reading sensors on the mobo. More SATA ports. Ans 5 year warranty.

I plan to get this board once I see promotional discounts for it. I saw it went on sale for $184.99 back then, but maybe Black Friday could be cheaper? Who knows. Just wait and find out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kvjavs*
> 
> So what would be the advantages of buying this board over the Crosshair V Formula, and vice versa? I'm wanting to get one of the two boards this weekend, but can't figure out if the price difference is worth it to buy the Crosshair over the Sabertooth, because so far to me it just seems that it comes with the X-Fi 2 Codec and nothing else of importance.


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kvjavs*
> 
> So what would be the advantages of buying this board over the Crosshair V Formula, and vice versa? I'm wanting to get one of the two boards this weekend, but can't figure out if the price difference is worth it to buy the Crosshair over the Sabertooth, because so far to me it just seems that it comes with the X-Fi 2 Codec and nothing else of importance.


My Crosshair V died after 4 days and is being RMA'd, so far I've found the SABERTOOTH a much more stable and better board, no problems with the LAN, the USB detection seems better and it ran my 2133Mhz G.Skill without having to play with the drive strengths etc, unlike the V. I personally prefer this board and when the V comes back the wife can have it for playing cards on lol. It's not confirmed officially but the 0813 BIOS is supposed to fix the issues some people are having with steam games and FX CPU's. I haven't had problems with my 8150FX.


----------



## firestorm1

stupid question. when i update my bios, will my oc profiles i have saved be erased? if so, how do i save them?


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LongLasting*
> 
> i have completed a stable 3.8 stable over clock.. with a 1090t cpu. I plan to over clock more after i fix a problem . I set my Vcore to 1.4 volts but it seems to idle at .1404 and it may go up with stressing it playing games or test.. For example 1.428>?? or mybe higher... Can somone give me advice to not allow my vcore to move at all if possible?
> specs: 1090t , sabertooth, vengence ram etc


Thats normal, its your load line calibration, it adds voltage to ensure you dont drop below what you set it too, you can try lowering llc setting in bios but i would leave it alone, thats a small jump anyways. I have my 1100t at 4255mhz, vcore at 1.45 and llc set to take it up to 1.5v when needed, its usually 1.48-1.5 when using prime.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> stupid question. when i update my bios, will my oc profiles i have saved be erased? if so, how do i save them?


Yes it will be erased, you can make a backup of your bios but i dont think you can transfer to the new bios. I havent tried, i kinda have my oc memorized and just reapply when i try a new bios, just to be safe right down the stuff you changed


----------



## firestorm1

thanks. i figured it wouldnt hurt to ask.


----------



## firestorm1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Thats normal, its your load line calibration, it adds voltage to ensure you dont drop below what you set it too, you can try lowering llc setting in bios but i would leave it alone, thats a small jump anyways. I have my 1100t at 4255mhz, vcore at 1.45 and llc set to take it up to 1.5v when needed, its usually 1.48-1.5 when using prime.


what do you have your setting at? im trying to take this to 4.2ghz but for some reason i bsod about 4 sec after prime starts. maybe my cpu wont go any further, idk. id be greatful for any help you can give me.

heres my settings at 4ghz


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> what do you have your setting at? im trying to take this to 4.2ghz but for some reason i bsod about 4 sec after prime starts. maybe my cpu wont go any further, idk. id be greatful for any help you can give me.
> heres my settings at 4ghz


I dont have the asus suite loaded up right now, install is locking up but I would at least set the cpu-nb llc to high and 110-120% and try that, regardless leave it there for now at cpu-nb 2000mhz (you should overclock this probably first though). If that doesnt work raise the cpu-nb to 1.20-1.25v, I really think the cpu-nb is holding you up at this point assuming the core has more left in it. These are loose numbers but I had 4100mhz stable with 2800cpu-nb, 4200mhz cpu and 2800cpu-nb would fail quick! Even though cpu-nb didnt get raised higher it needed more voltage for 4200 so once I bumped that up a bit it started working like a charm, my cpu doesnt like 4300mhz, highest I had was 4277 but keep it at 4244mhz to stay "safe".

you wont hurt the cpu-nb, some people report it being able to handle 1.4-1.45v for 24/7 use but regardless I have been at 1.35v for months with no issues, so dont worry about it too much in case you were wondering.

I cant confirm this since I overclocked my cpu-nb early into the cpu overclock, but due to the balance that the cpu and cpu-nb need to be happy at 4000mhz+ cpu you should at least be 2400mhz cpu-nb, possibly 2600mhz. There is a chart somewhere on OCN someone made. Guess they need to keep a balance or one can hold the other back. Also if you try setting the BUS clock up a bit and lower the multiplier it could help too, but that gets a little more involved since you also need to worry about other items overclocking that way too.


----------



## firestorm1

thanks for the info.

what i was trying to do is get the cores as stable as possible before i started oc'ing everything else. if i can get stable at 4.1ghz, ill leave it there. i dont feel like tempting fate again lol. what type of nb oc would be somewhat decent? im thinking maybe somewhere between 2400-2600mhz..


----------



## 66racer

2600 is EASY, Im told some people get 3400mhz+ but mine doesnt like over 3100mhz. Try to get 2800mhz if you can, Im at 3055mhz with 1.33v but my load line is at extreme, same with the cpu btw.


----------



## firestorm1

ok ill give it a shot, and report back.


----------



## thezfunk

New board owner here. I just got it up and running tonight. How does anyone get that software suite to run? I have downloaded mulitple version with two more in the queue. So far they have all installed but then they crash when running or throw error windows up constantly. What is going on here?


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thezfunk*
> 
> New board owner here. I just got it up and running tonight. How does anyone get that software suite to run? I have downloaded mulitple version with two more in the queue. So far they have all installed but then they crash when running or throw error windows up constantly. What is going on here?


Good luck, i have only had luck with the cd rom, I have the crosshair board but looks like the sabertooth has the same problem. once it crashes the cd rom fails to install as well, last time I reinstalled an image of my OS rather than see what gets messed up in windows, but i just tried with a fresh download the other day and failed, tried to install with the cd tonight to get screen shots for firestorm1 and cd now fails, dont want to install my image yet so gonna try to search how to clear windows of whatever happened to install from cd again. Let me know if you beat me to it, I probably wont start looking tonight.


----------



## firestorm1

im at 4.1ghz and nb is at 2800mhz im managed to boot into windows by upping the nb voltage to 1.875v and cpu voltage to 1.45625v. going to run prime now and start raising some volts.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> im at 4.1ghz and nb is at 2800mhz im managed to boot into windows by upping the nb voltage to 1.875v and cpu voltage to 1.45625v. going to run prime now and start raising some volts.


Wait a second....

nb 1.875v? That is *too high*

*Also just to be clear its the cpu-nb voltage you need to mess with*, stay under 1.45v but personally i wouldnt like anything over 1.4v, highest i have been is 1.36v

Cpu voltage doesnt seem bad, watch your load voltage, I believe most say 1.55v max for 24/7 use, i am at 1.5v under load.

You might find it usefull to set LLC on cpu to extreme and cpu-nb to high at least but i use extreme

Watch your temps too, i think max temps are 65c but stay under 62c, 55c can start causing stability issues on some chips when your going for over 4.1ghz generally

Well time for me to get some sleep, good luck


----------



## firestorm1

lol my bad. i was reading the wrong voltage. i meant to say 1.225v. been running prime on blend for about an hour and so far so good. peak voltage is 1.488v

EDIT: ok i stopped prime to crank it up to 4.2ghz. ill let this run for an hour or so and then jump on some games.


----------



## firestorm1

well unfortunately 4.2ghz was just never meant to be. i did everything i could and prime would stop at about 12-40 seconds in. i went up as high as 1.5v and not taking it any further. oh well, at least i got the experience as to what my cpu can do. i ran prime on blend for 2hrs and no stopped workers. now its time to play some games.. here are my final settings:

*CPU:* 4.0ghz

*Multiplier:* x20

*NB:* 2800mhz

*CPU Voltage:* 1.455v

*CPU/NB Voltage:* 1.24v

*CPU LLC:* Extreme

*CPU/NB LLC:* Extreme

*CPU Power Phase Control:* Extreme

*CPU Current Capability:* 120%

*CPU/NB Current Capability:* 120%


----------



## theamdman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> well unfortunately 4.2ghz was just never meant to be. i did everything i could and prime would stop at about 12-40 seconds in. i went up as high as 1.5v and not taking it any further. oh well, at least i got the experience as to what my cpu can do. i ran prime on blend for 2hrs and no stopped workers. now its time to play some games.. here are my final settings:
> *CPU:* 4.0ghz
> *Multiplier:* x20
> *NB:* 2800mhz
> *CPU Voltage:* 1.455v
> *CPU/NB Voltage:* 1.24v
> 
> *CPU LLC:* Extreme
> *CPU/NB LLC:* Extreme
> *CPU Power Phase Control:* Extreme
> *CPU Current Capability:* 120%
> *CPU/NB Current Capability:* 120%


Did you run ibt at 6144mb ram usage takes bout 15min to see if stable


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> well unfortunately 4.2ghz was just never meant to be. i did everything i could and prime would stop at about 12-40 seconds in. i went up as high as 1.5v and not taking it any further. oh well, at least i got the experience as to what my cpu can do. i ran prime on blend for 2hrs and no stopped workers. now its time to play some games.. here are my final settings:
> *CPU:* 4.0ghz
> *Multiplier:* x20
> *NB:* 2800mhz
> *CPU Voltage:* 1.455v
> *CPU/NB Voltage:* 1.24v
> 
> *CPU LLC:* Extreme
> *CPU/NB LLC:* Extreme
> *CPU Power Phase Control:* Extreme
> *CPU Current Capability:* 120%
> *CPU/NB Current Capability:* 120%


Try cpu-nb at 1.3-1.35v with your cpu-nb at 2800mhz it will need it that high to pass prime. Mine is at 1.33v for 2800-3055mhz cpu-nb, Up to 1.4v is what some people have said is ok, but I would stick to under 1.38 to be safe. If it fails at that then if you dont want the hastle at least 4.1 is still good. If your really set at 4.2Ghz I would honestly get the fsb at 210-230 and adjust your multipliers


----------



## mironccr345

^ I Agree, try messing with your bus speed and adjusting your multiplier 16.5-17.5. I was able to get 4214MHz with BS @ 240 and my multiplier set at 17.5. I don't remember what my core voltage settings, but I do remember at full load it would shoot up to 1.52v or maybe even 1.53v from 1.48v. I'll have to check the BIOS to get my exact settings.


----------



## firestorm1

@ theamdman:

no i havent ran ibt. never really had a need to. on my last board, i had everything tweaked the way i wanted it . i then ran prime for a few hours just to make sure it was running ok.. was running perfectly fine until i decided to get this board.

@ 66racer & mironccr345:

i would rather not mess with the fsb until i get my other set of ram. i will be fine at 4ghz, for now at least. as for the nb voltage, ill try that and see what happens. thanks


----------



## n9nu

Can someone point me in the correct direction in regards to what settings I still need to tinker with in order to boost my CPU to a nice 4.2GHz? Below are my system specs and my current BIOS information as listed. I have a feeling that my issue(s) are related to the NB VCC and/or some of the power phase settings.

SYSTEM SPECIFICATIONS

Mobo: Asus 990FX Sabertooth
BIOS: 0813
CPU: Phenom II X6 1100T O/C Stable @ 4.01GHz
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (4GBx2) DDR3-1600 @ 1300MHz
GPU: nVidia 580 GTX 2GB Reference Board
CPU Cooling: Corsair H90 Liquid Cooler

CURRENT SETTINGS @ 4.01GHz

CPU: 4.01GHz
CPU Temp: 33c (BIOS)
MB Temp: 28c

CPU BUS: 200
CPU Mult: x20
HT Link Speed: Auto (2000)
CPU-NB Freq: Auto (2000)

NB VCC: Auto @ 1.10
CPU-NB Vcc: Auto @ 1.125
NB-HT VCC: Auto @ 1.20

Mem Freq: Auto (1333)
CPU & PCIE SS: Auto
DRAM Timing: Auto (1T)
DRAM VCC: Auto @ 1.506

CPU Vcc: Manually Set to 1.400 @1.392
CPU Load Line: High
CPU-NB Load Line: High
CPU Current: Auto
CPU-NB Current: Auto
CPU Power Phase: Extreme
VPU VDDA: Auto

I am rock solid at 4.01GHz via the above settings, however, whenever I attempt to increase the CPU Multiplier to 21 (4.2GHz), I get the dreaded BSOD with an IRQ_NOT_LESS_THEN error.

Should I attempt to slowly increase the CPU-NB current and/or the NB current? All I am looking to do is achieve a stable 4.2GHz. In actuality, there isn't a need to even O/C at all, however, that would be no fun.

Tnx

Tim

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2106809]


----------



## pwnography6

Tragic accident involving my NB won't go into details but my board is dead.... So knock me out of the club stats I got a crosshair on the way.. Gonna stay on the asus boat! Thanks for everything while I been here


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> @ theamdman:
> no i havent ran ibt. never really had a need to. on my last board, i had everything tweaked the way i wanted it . i then ran prime for a few hours just to make sure it was running ok.. was running perfectly fine until i decided to get this board.
> @ 66racer & mironccr345:
> i would rather not mess with the fsb until i get my other set of ram. i will be fine at 4ghz, for now at least. as for the nb voltage, ill try that and see what happens. thanks


Cool let us know, but what you need to do with the memory is go down in the ratio so its speed is lowered, then raise the bus speed till your ram is at the rated speed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n9nu*
> 
> Can someone point me in the correct direction in regards to what settings I still need to tinker with in order to boost my CPU to a nice 4.2GHz? Below are my system specs and my current BIOS information as listed. I have a feeling that my issue(s) are related to the NB VCC and/or some of the power phase settings.
> SYSTEM SPECIFICATIONS
> Mobo: Asus 990FX Sabertooth
> BIOS: 0813
> CPU: Phenom II X6 1100T O/C Stable @ 4.01GHz
> Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (4GBx2) DDR3-1600 @ 1300MHz
> GPU: nVidia 580 GTX 2GB Reference Board
> CPU Cooling: Corsair H90 Liquid Cooler
> CURRENT SETTINGS @ 4.01GHz
> CPU: 4.01GHz
> CPU Temp: 33c (BIOS)
> MB Temp: 28c
> CPU BUS: 200
> CPU Mult: x20
> HT Link Speed: Auto (2000)
> CPU-NB Freq: Auto (2000)
> NB VCC: Auto @ 1.10
> CPU-NB Vcc: Auto @ 1.125
> NB-HT VCC: Auto @ 1.20
> Mem Freq: Auto (1333)
> CPU & PCIE SS: Auto
> DRAM Timing: Auto (1T)
> DRAM VCC: Auto @ 1.506
> CPU Vcc: Manually Set to 1.400 @1.392
> CPU Load Line: High
> CPU-NB Load Line: High
> CPU Current: Auto
> CPU-NB Current: Auto
> CPU Power Phase: Extreme
> VPU VDDA: Auto
> I am rock solid at 4.01GHz via the above settings, however, whenever I attempt to increase the CPU Multiplier to 21 (4.2GHz), I get the dreaded BSOD with an IRQ_NOT_LESS_THEN error.
> Should I attempt to slowly increase the CPU-NB current and/or the NB current? All I am looking to do is achieve a stable 4.2GHz. In actuality, there isn't a need to even O/C at all, however, that would be no fun.
> Tnx
> Tim
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2106809]


Hey there, honestly read what i put with firestorm1. Basically looks like you might just need to try a bump in cpu-nb, Safe limit is said to be 1.4-1.45 but I have mine at 1.33 (llc 1.35v) for cpu-nb at 3055mhz. Also want to say your going to need to try to take the cpu-nb speed up, AT LEAST 2600 easy, 2800mhz might need 1.30v+ But if you leave it at 2000 try 1.20-1.25v

the details are in the last page or 2 though

edit, or and also try cpu voltage at 1.43-1.45

might want to try cpu llc at extreme and 120% for now cpu-nb is ok but if you overclock it you might want to try setting it at extreme also and 120%


----------



## ht_addict

New BIOS(ver0813) available for the board on Asus site.


----------



## vartok

copied from the asus site, before anyone asks....

Quote:


> SABERTOOTH 990FX BIOS 0813
> 1. Improve memory compatibility
> 2. Improve system stability


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> copied from the asus site, before anyone asks....
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> SABERTOOTH 990FX BIOS 0813
> 1. Improve memory compatibility
> 2. Improve system stability
Click to expand...

Could it be system stability at the expense of ovrclocking? With the 0810 BIOS I could boot to 5Ghz and run Cinebench. Now I can't go higher than 4.6Ghz with same settings.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> copied from the asus site, before anyone asks....
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> SABERTOOTH 990FX BIOS 0813
> 1. Improve memory compatibility
> 2. Improve system stability
Click to expand...

do you know if this is more for FX over the Denab and Thuban?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict*
> 
> Could it be system stability at the expense of ovrclocking? With the 0810 BIOS I could boot to 5Ghz and run Cinebench. Now I can't go higher than 4.6Ghz with same settings.


^^this^^

-dimwit-

lol-i am still on 705, but it seems to be running fine.
should i flash it to a newer one, if so which one, or should i go with the "If it aint Broke, dont fix it"


----------



## dimwit13

ok guys, been meesing with the oc and this is where i am at, as of now.










i have a couple Memory Questions.
should i run 1T or 2T?
iommu?
memory hole mapping?
ganged or unganged?
bank interleaving?
channel interleaving?

i was having memory stability problems but just noticed that ECC was enabled-now it is disabled.

any suggestions would be helpful.
i havent been messing with OCing since last year on my MSI 790FX MB, so i have forgotten what a few of the setting are.

looking forward to getting the most out of this system.

-dimwit-


----------



## reaperUK

hey all, just a quick post to say hi and to say ive ordered my sabertooth which should be arriving tomorrow, i am totally new to all this oc,ing stuff so forgive me for being a noob, i will be upgrading from my asus m4n75td to this mobo and after reading all the posts regarding the saber im looking forward to building it, i will be using my 965be chip for the moment till i have enough cash for the fx series chip, like i said i am totally in the wilderness regarding oc,ing so i hope u will all forgive me if i post some dribble or sound like i have no clue what the hell im talking about!! As soon as i have it built it i will post some pics of my setup.


----------



## firestorm1

ok. i managed to set the cpu/nb volts to 1.3v in bios. but for some reason the numbers are in red. is that something i need to worry about?


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> ok. i managed to set the cpu/nb volts to 1.3v in bios. but for some reason the numbers are in red. is that something i need to worry about?


i think the red is just a warning that you are getting close to the recomended max.
i think you should be safe, but i am still trying to figure it all out myself.

-dimwit-


----------



## firestorm1

these are my final settings


----------



## dimwit13

when i stress test, and use AI Suite to check temps, the VCore 1 temp hits 50/51c is this safe? what is the max?

thanks

-dimwit-

i will just add to this post, starting to get too many in a row-lol

so far so good-will try for more.


----------



## Jamyy10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamyy10*
> 
> Can you guys give me some tips on how to overclock my 1333MHz RAM to 1600MHz?
> Also, sleeving pics are going to be up soon


Bump? Also should i flash my BIOS even if i don't need to update it??

Oh and one more thing, i just bought a Cyborg Rat 7 for £66.00 including next day shipping







It will match my Cyborg V7 keyboard as well!


----------



## thezfunk

How does this look? I had this overclock on my Gigabyte 890FX board before it died. I got my ram down to where it should be. I had never bothered with that before. I might try jacking my Bus speed. Where would you guys go from here?


----------



## raisethe3

^^^Very good. Wow, you managed to get 4 slots at 1600mhz? Pretty impressive. Thubans are known to have good/better memory controller than the Denebs.


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> these are my final settings


Is there something special I have to do to install this program? Downloaded it from ASUS and everytime I try to install it won't. Help


----------



## firestorm1

install it from the disk.


----------



## thezfunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict*
> 
> Is there something special I have to do to install this program? Downloaded it from ASUS and everytime I try to install it won't. Help


I have installed every version possible from their website and FTP site and none of them have worked. I think I have gone though 6-8 different versions. They all install and then immediately crash on open.


----------



## RagingLoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> copied from the asus site, before anyone asks....
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> SABERTOOTH 990FX BIOS 0813
> 1. Improve memory compatibility
> 2. Improve system stability
Click to expand...

With bios version 0705 I have a stable overclock (Prime for 12+ hours and OCCT many times for at least 2 hours at a time) @ 3.8ghz (just using the auto overclock in the bios), but with 0813 I get the BSoD if I'm even lucky enough to boot into Windows. I've been watching this thread since I got my Sabertooth and feel compelled to post my finding on this.

This is also my first post on Overclock.net and my verification post for the Sabertooth Owners Club so, please add me.


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thezfunk*
> 
> I have installed every version possible from their website and FTP site and none of them have worked. I think I have gone though 6-8 different versions. They all install and then immediately crash on open.


Is everything back at default? Try resetting everything a default speeds/clock. Something must be interferring it.


----------



## thezfunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3*
> 
> Is everything back at default? Try resetting everything a default speeds/clock. Something must be interferring it.


Yes, that was all before I started the overclock. I finally just said, 'screw it' and have been doing it all manually. I have never had software overclocking work properly. I have always done it manually.


----------



## 66racer

I noticed that once I attempted to install the online version even my disk one fails, last time I needed to reinstall windows to fix it, I have an image though so it took less than 15mins but now that image doesnt have bf3 lol so I might search the windows 7 forums to see what I need to fix, somewhere the failure is storing something within windows that keeps everything else failing, most likely I would guess in the registry.


----------



## n9nu

Hey 66racer

Quote:


> Hey there, honestly read what i put with firestorm1. Basically looks like you might just need to try a bump in cpu-nb, Safe limit is said to be 1.4-1.45 but I have mine at 1.33 (llc 1.35v) for cpu-nb at 3055mhz. Also want to say your going to need to try to take the cpu-nb speed up, AT LEAST 2600 easy, 2800mhz might need 1.30v+ But if you leave it at 2000 try 1.20-1.25v
> 
> the details are in the last page or 2 though
> 
> edit, or and also try cpu voltage at 1.43-1.45
> 
> might want to try cpu llc at extreme and 120% for now cpu-nb is ok but if you overclock it you might want to try setting it at extreme also and 120%
> Edited by 66racer - 11/19/11 at 9:50pm


In response to my request for information on how to bump my 4.0GHz up to 4.2 or so, I thank you for the information









I increased the Ic profiles to 120% and switched from 'High' to 'Extreme' as well as changed the CPU-NB Vcc and speed to 2800 +/- and now got a rock solid (post 2 hours of COD MW3) system running @ 4.240GHz. I think that is far as I want to push it. In all honesty, there is most likely 'zero' difference [to the eye] when comparing 4.0 and 4.2GHz while gaming, so this is perfect. I know I could go further, but why. I am not one to complain if I only achieve a consistent 50FPS throughout a game









Tnx much

Tim

ARS N9NU


----------



## dimwit13

so are you guys overclocking through the bios or are you using AI Suite?

-dimwit-


----------



## firestorm1

I used the ai suite to apply the settings in the digi+vrm. Then went in bios and played around with the rest of the settings.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> I used the ai suite to apply the settings in the digi+vrm. Then went in bios and played around with the rest of the settings.


ok, thanks.
i have always used the bios, so i am not sure how stable it is using AI Suite.
seems like noone has been having problems so i will give it a shot.
i still havent found the sweet spot yet, been trying mult/fsb/combo, but i seem to push it too hard and she crashes.
i need to spend the time one day and just get it done right-lol
i might just end up getting a 1100T, if i dont sell this system first.

-dimwit-


----------



## firestorm1

ai suite is nice for on the fly oc'ing. not having to reboot everytime is pretty cool in my book. the settings that you make and apply in the digi+vrm will save in the bios in real time. the settings in the turboV EVO section will not, once you reboot, those values will go back to what you had it before. that has to be don through the bios. but its a neat little tool regardless.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n9nu*
> 
> Hey 66racer
> 
> In response to my request for information on how to bump my 4.0GHz up to 4.2 or so, I thank you for the information
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I increased the Ic profiles to 120% and switched from 'High' to 'Extreme' as well as changed the CPU-NB Vcc and speed to 2800 +/- and now got a rock solid (post 2 hours of COD MW3) system running @ 4.240GHz. I think that is far as I want to push it. In all honesty, there is most likely 'zero' difference [to the eye] when comparing 4.0 and 4.2GHz while gaming, so this is perfect. I know I could go further, but why. I am not one to complain if I only achieve a consistent 50FPS throughout a game
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tnx much
> 
> Tim
> ARS N9NU


Glad it helped








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> ok. i managed to set the cpu/nb volts to 1.3v in bios. but for some reason the numbers are in red. is that something i need to worry about?


Cpu-nb is inside the cpu, i have mine set to 1.33v at the moment, so long as your in cpu-nb your good. Thats where I was mentioning some people say 1.4 is even 24/7 safe but I would rather stay no higher than 1.37-1.38


----------



## firestorm1

i finally manageed to get stable @ 4.2ghz. i brought cpu current capability to 130% and vcore to 1.488v. when i ran prime, voltage peaked to 1.51v


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> ai suite is nice for on the fly oc'ing. not having to reboot everytime is pretty cool in my book. the settings that you make and apply in the digi+vrm will save in the bios in real time. the settings in the turboV EVO section will not, once you reboot, those values will go back to what you had it before. that has to be don through the bios. but its a neat little tool regardless.


I wasn't aware of this - thanks.


----------



## LongLasting

I have my CPU running 3.8 ghz at 19x multiplier. I am running 1090t and wanted to for cpu + nb how fast do i want it to be running ? and also how much voltage to add for cpu nb voltage


----------



## firestorm1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LongLasting*
> 
> I have my CPU running 3.8 ghz at 19x multiplier. I am running 1090t and wanted to for cpu + nb how fast do i want it to be running ? and also how much voltage to add for cpu nb voltage


each cpu is different. if you want sort of a guideline to try. check post #1349. i posted my final oc settings.


----------



## tkerpj

thanking about getting the board, can someone please PM me and discuss with me?

Thanks.


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tkerpj*
> 
> thanking about getting the board, can someone please PM me and discuss with me?
> Thanks.


What exactly did you want to discuss about? The features on this board?

Its going to be on sale in a couple of hours (CA time here) for $175.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Well, I ordered my Sabertooth 990FX today as part of Newegg's Black Friday deals and I should see it some time early next week so I'll post a link to my cpuz results as soon as I can so you can sign me up for this club. I also ordered the 1100T to go with it along with 16GB of Corsair memory, I hope it all amounts to an awesome rig


----------



## lilkuz2005

i have the Sabertooth 990fx with an AMD phenom ii x6 1100t and 16gb of g.skill 16000 ram, and i can tell you that it is an amazing setup, Ive also upgraded my PSU from a 600watt to a 1000watt and purchased 2 saphire radeon hd 6870's in crossfire, over all this system can do just about anything, so i think you will be very happy with it


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilkuz2005*
> 
> i have the Sabertooth 990fx with an AMD phenom ii x6 1100t and 16gb of g.skill 16000 ram, and i can tell you that it is an amazing setup, Ive also upgraded my PSU from a 600watt to a 1000watt and purchased 2 saphire radeon hd 6870's in crossfire, over all this system can do just about anything, so i think you will be very happy with it


Yeah I have several friends here that have the 1100T and they love it but they are all running the Crosshair V Mb, but I really don't like the look of the CHV so that left me with the Sabertooth. I haven't decided what graphics card(s) I'll be going with yet, I want to get my water cooling loop up and running for the CPU first then I'll start thinking about GPU's. Right now my GTX285 may be a few years old but it still holds it's own in the stuff I'm currently playing/ watching so it's not a absolute need right now. As for a power supply I already have a 1000W so I'll be good there, however I'll be looking at some new ones here soon and I'll probably go bigger because of all the water cooling stuff I've got planned for the future just to be safe.


----------



## Tweeky

*ASUS sabertooth 990FX at $174.99 + free shipping*

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131736


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> *ASUS sabertooth 990FX at $174.99 + free shipping*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131736


Not only 174.99 and free shipping but it's an Iron Egg Item right now so you get 60 day extended return policy for the holidays








This is where I ordered mine and what I paid, just to awesome a deal to pass up


----------



## DevilDriver

Count me in this club








Just got my Sabertooth 990FX yesterday from Fry's for $150 with the purchase of an FX-6100
So far I'm very pleased with the set up

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2118737


----------



## LoneWolf3574

Just got my Sabertooth 990FX this week. Installed, tweaked it a bit, have it liquid cooled even.







Unfortuantely, I missed the rush on everything by buying it before all the sales kicked off, so I paid a bit more than the prices I'm seeing shown right now.





EDIT - Thanks for the tip about the plastic on the SB heatsink, I had no clue


----------



## tkerpj

I am now a proud owner and I love it, I made a good choice.


----------



## Leo_Da_vinci

I have to say this board is very nice to overclock. Add me plz









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2120702


----------



## ocmi_teddy

Anyone having an issue disabling individual cores?

On mine it only lets me disable 3&4 or 5&6. But it won't let me disable just one core at a time, and won't let me disable core #2 (which just so happens to be the weakest core along with core #6).


----------



## Mistral

I think that's because on the FX the cores are in modules, I think the 6100 has 3 modules so you would have to disable a module (2 cores) and you can't disable the first core or the CPU won't work. I have a feeling they did a BIOS for the Crosshair V that let you disable individual cores but it had a warning about the system not booting if you got it wrong.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ocmi_teddy*
> 
> Anyone having an issue disabling individual cores?
> 
> On mine it only lets me disable 3&4 or 5&6. But it won't let me disable just one core at a time, and won't let me disable core #2 (which just so happens to be the weakest core along with core #6).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> I think that's because on the FX the cores are in modules, I think the 6100 has 3 modules so you would have to disable a module (2 cores) and you can't disable the first core or the CPU won't work. I have a feeling they did a BIOS for the Crosshair V that let you disable individual cores but it had a warning about the system not booting if you got it wrong.


Good info to know about thanks guys


----------



## bicyclechris

Hey guys,
I've been reading over this thread, and it is really the best place I've found for information on the Sabertooth 990fx.

I recently bought this board and re-built my new computer to build a video editing workstation on the cheap.

I have a new AMD Bulldozer 8 core 3.1ghz processor, Corsair 16gb DDR3 1600 RAM, and Zalman CNPS 9900MAX cooler, but I'm still using my antiquated
Seagate 1TB SATAIII Hard drive and GTX 460 graphics card for now.

Everything so far has worked very well, except for one thing: a *0x00000109 ndis.sys BSOD* which creeps up and crashes my computer at least once a day.

I've researched, and researched, and exhausted most of my options, but still can't completely solve this problem.

From what I've found, this relates to a conflict with the Realtek onboard NIC driver.
I've deleted the driver, and re-installed with current drivers but I still get the same damn BSOD creeping up.
The only options I have left are either to disable the onboard NIC in BIOS, and buy a PCI express one, or
Re-install Windows 7 x64 and try again.

I don't want to re-install install Win 7 until I buy my new SSD, which I will do using a USB 3.0 Flash drive instead of the DVD.

I just read in this thread about memory hole remapping, which by default is on in the BIOS.
I turned memory hole remapping OFF, and my system is working faster and hasn't crashed (yet). Thanks for the tip!

One last note, all of my BIOS and drivers are all current, the BIOS settings are all stock, except for memory hole remapping.

If any of you have thoughts or solutions to this issue, please let me know. I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks,
-Chris


----------



## WeirdHarold

I'm glad you posted this as my Sabertooth will be here today!

But to your question I know that on occasion that win 7 can cause driver issues when it installs a driver for something and then you try to install another driver for the same thing. I've not heard of it causing BSOD's but I imagine that could be the worst case scenario, my current AM2+ board had the problem when I upgraded to win 7 that if I installed the chipset drivers from foxconn that my system would either run very slow or hang on me. I eventually figured out that win 7 was installing a driver for the SATA controller and then I was installing another one on top of it which was causing the problem. In the end I re-installed windows and opted to see how it ran on just the win 7 driver, everything works great and I've never had a problem since. So you might want to do a clean install and see if you have an internet connection (if the Ethernet port is working) as soon as windows finishes installing which would indicate windows installed a driver for the Realtek Ethernet adapter. At least this would be where I would start mostly because of the fact that the Error code has a suffix of .sys which tells me it has something to do with a system file. But I don't mind being wrong so please let me know if it turns out to be something else









Good Luck and I hope this helps.


----------



## WeirdHarold

So this should make a few of you laugh and a few just shake your heads, my Sabertooth board should be at my door sometime today! I just got one of those emails that Newegg sends out from time to time "Recommended Just for You" and the item is the Sabertooth motherboard that I ordered from them already


----------



## firestorm1

im not seeing my name on the list for sabertooth owners. i probably forgot to add the cpu-z validation link. my bad.









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2125492


----------



## WeirdHarold

Well, I got a visit from the UPS guy and here's what he brought me











I'll post a validation link as soon as I can !


----------



## firestorm1

hey bro.. let me know how those vengence stick run. ive been looking to swap out my g.skills for something else.

also, whats the clocks on that memory?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> hey bro.. let me know how those vengence stick run. ive been looking to swap out my g.skills for something else.
> 
> also, whats the clocks on that memory?


They should run great they are on the approved mem list and were also in one of Newegg's bundles for the Sabertooth board, I had looked at the Gskill stuff to and almost went with them but then I saw the Corsair ones on Black Friday for $70 and that made the decision really easy


----------



## bicyclechris

I'm using the exact same Corsair Vengeance 16GB Ram kit, It woks great!
It is DDR3 1600, but by default it runs only at 1333mhz.
Go into your BIOS and change the timing to 1600, it runs like a champ.

Since I've upgraded my BIOS firmware to the latest version, and turned off memory hole remapping my system is a tad faster and hasn't BSOD-ed
yet.

I didn't know about validating my system with cpu-z, I'll look into that and do it tonight.

-Chris


----------



## Metro.Is.King

Can i join?

My CPU-Z validation;


And how do i disable the jmicron controller for faster boot? I have one SSD on the SATA3 port, and also one HDD also on the SATA3.

Finally, is there a way i can stop it asking to choose which windows to load and boot straight from SSD, because i also have windows installed on my HDD, but i never need to load it. Anything short of formatting it would be great.


----------



## Solders18

hey everyone, just got my Sabertooth today! i am having the problem of Asus AI Suite II not controlling the fans. i can set the cpu fans to any profile or user but they still blaze at 100%. has anyone else had this issue? also with the chassis fans, i try to move the points under user mode and get floating point error. i used AI suite on 890GTD pro that the sabortooth replaced and it worked awesome. Thanks for any advice.

i am running windows 7 64 ultimate.

Capture.PNG 212k .PNG file


----------



## Boomstick68

Any good OC 'ing guides anywhere. I've forgotten all I have learned in the past plus this bios looks complicated.


----------



## lilkuz2005

im not 100% sure, but i think you need to have 4 pin PWN fans for the motherboard to control the speeds, i dont think it will control 3 pin fans. thats why i had to get the scythe kaze master pro fan controller because it can adjust the voltages of the fans, 3 pin or 4 pin


----------



## LoneWolf3574

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> hey bro.. let me know how those vengence stick run. ive been looking to swap out my g.skills for something else.
> also, whats the clocks on that memory?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bicyclechris*
> 
> I'm using the exact same Corsair Vengeance 16GB Ram kit, It woks great!
> It is DDR3 1600, but by default it runs only at 1333mhz.
> Go into your BIOS and change the timing to 1600, it runs like a champ.


I've got those same sticks in my computer, except they're Cerulean Blue. The timings need to be manually set if you go to 1600Mhz and you MUST set the tRC to 41 or you'll get a memory error on POST if you have set the CAS, RAS, & Precharge to 9. The CAS and RAS Precharge need to be set as well since they default to 11. From there, it's just a matter of using AOD to tweak (if you are so inclined) to get the max out of it all without crashing.


----------



## bicyclechris

My damn compter still BSODs on the 0x0000109 on ndis.sys at random, despite my changes to the RAM I made.
I'm going to buy an Intel NIC for $35.00 and disable the onboard NIC, and get rid of hte realtek drivers. We'll see if that takes care of my blue screen issues.

-Chris


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilkuz2005*
> 
> im not 100% sure, but i think you need to have 4 pin PWN fans for the motherboard to control the speeds, i dont think it will control 3 pin fans. thats why i had to get the scythe kaze master pro fan controller because it can adjust the voltages of the fans, 3 pin or 4 pin


The board it replaced had a 4-pin PWM connector for the CPU but it had a option in the bios for whether it is DC or PWM. plus they make no mention of it anywhere that it has to be PWM.


----------



## Mistral

Some malware programs disguise themselves as NDIS.sys so you could try checking it, also changing the IPX frame type on your network connection from auto to any other IPX type can cause a stop error. You could try replacing the NDIS.sys from your windows cd by putting your windows cd in the drive and run this from the command prompt "del %windir%\system32\drivers\ndis.sys expand e:\i386\ndis.sy_ %windir%\system32\drivers\ndis.sys" . Where it says expand e: you will have to change it to the drive the cd is in. If non of this works then you might have a bad NIC.


----------



## THC Butterz

Sory I havent been arround for a while, I just moved into a place where the only internet Is limited and slow... if the suns just right I can See BFE from my front door so i'll be arround when I can But I am going to update the SS in the next day or so... alright... I Hate the desert...


----------



## demoralized

Hey all, just joined the 990FX club. Had it since the day it was released and have been loving it since.


----------



## Bradford1040

I am sorry to all as well, I hate admitting this but at the same time THC moved and asked me to keep the thread updated well..... I got arrested lol and have been in jail for about 12 days while the slow jerks tried to find my lost paperwork that proved that I was not guilty, so very sorry that I have not been updating myself but as you all most likely know the don't exactly let you play on a PC in there lol.

So ether THC Butterz or myself will fix the spread sheet in the next few days, and I will go through the posts and see if everyone has there questions answered


----------



## kegga_62

I just ordered the Asus Sabertooth 990FX. It will be replacing My Asus M2N32 SLI Deluxe. I was wondering. When I install the new Sabertooth. Should I format my SSD and start from scratch or can I just hook up my SSD with Windows XP 32bit.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kegga_62*
> 
> I just ordered the Asus Sabertooth 990FX. It will be replacing My Asus M2N32 SLI Deluxe. I was wondering. When I install the new Sabertooth. Should I format my SSD and start from scratch or can I just hook up my SSD with Windows XP 32bit.


I doubt you'll be able to just hook it up and go, but you might be able and I say again might be able to run a repair on your windows install and get it up and running. Just put you windows disc in and act like your going to re-install windows, But when you get to the screen where you choose what drive you want to install to don't hit enter but read the bottom of the screen for what to press to repair the current install of windows! If you hit enter you will be starting over from scratch so be careful.


----------



## dimwit13

hey guys.
i want to replace my 955 and 1600mhz ram.
i want to get the 960T and some 1866/2000mhz ram.
waste of money?
i can sell the 955 and 1600 ram for $100-$125 to a friend, so i all the money wont be comming out of my pocket.
any suggestions on the ram?
thanks.

this is for my sig rig.

-dimwit-


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> hey guys.
> i want to replace my 955 and 1600mhz ram.
> i want to get the 960T and some 1866/2000mhz ram.
> waste of money?
> i can sell the 955 and 1600 ram for $100-$125 to a friend, so i all the money wont be comming out of my pocket.
> any suggestions on the ram?
> thanks.
> 
> this is for my sig rig.
> 
> -dimwit-


If you're going to stick with an X4 for like $40 more you could get the 980 and then yes I'd say it would be worth it! But what you suggest is going from a 3.2Ghz chip to a 3.0Ghz chip, you should at least gain some speed out of your new chip if nothing else. As for the ram remember that the AM3 chips don't officially support mem over 1600, so if you get the 1866 or above you'll have to overclock it to get the rated speeds.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> If you're going to stick with an X4 for like $40 more you could get the 980 and then yes I'd say it would be worth it! But what you suggest is going from a 3.2Ghz chip to a 3.0Ghz chip, you should at least gain some speed out of your new chip if nothing else. As for the ram remember that the AM3 chips don't officially support mem over 1600, so if you get the 1866 or above you'll have to overclock it to get the rated speeds.


thanks for the reply.

as for the 960T it is a thuban, which has a better memory controller so i should be able to run faster ram with a higher nb.
it is also 95w, so runs cooler with lower volts.
also the chance to unlock the 2 extra cores.
i can get it from newegg for $110 shipped.
the 980 is just a higher clocked 955, so the oc wont be much higer-i can run my 955 at 4Ghz stable.
i think i just sold myself on the 960t-i will sell my 955 to a good friend for cheap, so he can upgrade his Phenom 9850

now for the ram-

-dimwit-


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> If you're going to stick with an X4 for like $40 more you could get the 980 and then yes I'd say it would be worth it! But what you suggest is going from a 3.2Ghz chip to a 3.0Ghz chip, you should at least gain some speed out of your new chip if nothing else. As for the ram remember that the AM3 chips don't officially support mem over 1600, so if you get the 1866 or above you'll have to overclock it to get the rated speeds.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for the reply.
> 
> as for the 960T it is a thuban, which has a better memory controller so i should be able to run faster ram with a higher nb.
> it is also 95w, so runs cooler with lower volts.
> also the chance to unlock the 2 extra cores.
> i can get it from newegg for $110 shipped.
> the 980 is just a higher clocked 955, so the oc wont be much higer-i can run my 955 at 4Ghz stable.
> i think i just sold myself on the 960t-i will sell my 955 to a good friend for cheap, so he can upgrade his Phenom 9850
> 
> now for the ram-
> 
> -dimwit-
Click to expand...

Well, now that you laid out your whole plan that sounds like a good deal so I'd say go for it


----------



## Mistral

A lot of people have failed to unlock the cores in the 960T and it also has 2 meg of the level 3 cache disabled which can't be unlocked.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> A lot of people have failed to unlock the cores in the 960T and it also has 2 meg of the level 3 cache disabled which can't be unlocked.


unlocking would just be a bonus-not expecting it.
more wanting a higher NB and ram

-dimwit-


----------



## pinkfloyd48

Should I use the onboard sound or my pci express Creative SB extreme music card, Which would be better?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pinkfloyd48*
> 
> Should I use the onboard sound or my pci express Creative SB extreme music card, Which would be better?


Depends on what your using it for and how adept you are at hearing the quality of your sound, also it depends on your speaker setup. Now with that said if you have the sound card and space for it in your system why not put it in? Onboard sound is fine if your outputting your sound to a home theater system through a Toslink cable as all the sound processing is done by the receiver. If gaming most would probably say put your SB card in as it will give you better sound for games, but I've never had any issues with sound and I've always used the Onboard sound.


----------



## Iam Gadgets

Hi from Ireland,

I just love this place spent the last 10 hours catching up phew







now I'm going to buy one (honest). My question is would an ASUS GeForce ENGTX550 Ti DC/DI/1GD5 be a nice match for it? Once more awesome forum/club and thanks in advance


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iam Gadgets*
> 
> Hi from Ireland,
> 
> I just love this place spent the last 10 hours catching up phew
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now I'm going to buy one (honest). My question is would an ASUS GeForce ENGTX550 Ti DC/DI/1GD5 be a nice match for it? Once more awesome forum/club and thanks in advance


The 550TI is a decent GPU, I seriously thought about putting a couple of them in SLI for my build but I'm rather partial to EVGA for the brand only because I've owned several and have never had an issue. In the end I decided to go with the 560's for one main reason I want to water cool them and there is no full card block for the 550's. So you pick your graphics card based more on what you'll be using your computer for, if you want a decent well balanced computer the 550 will serve you well. However if you want to play the most recent games at their highest settings and have great frame rates then you might want to step it up to a 570 or 580.

Hope this helps and good luck


----------



## kegga_62

Ya. I know how to do the Windows XP repair. I would probably just be better to do a total re-instalation. I have Windows 7 Pro. 64bit. But as of right now my microsoft sidewinder force feedback wheel isn't compatible with 64bit. That's why I'm still running Win. XP. Thanks for your help.


----------



## kegga_62

I have one EVGA GTX 550Ti and one PNY GTX 550Ti both running in SLI. Works fine. They just have to be the same GPU. Who makes it doesn't matter.


----------



## theamdman

I love how AMD added SLI Support to their Chipsets. I just took my 965 to 4.6ghz @ 1.5 on the vCore. Ambient temp 6c


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theamdman*
> 
> I love how AMD added SLI Support to their Chipsets. I just took my 965 to 4.6ghz @ 1.5 on the vCore. Ambient temp 6c


6c... with a d14... are you in the arctic circle...


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kegga_62*
> 
> Ya. I know how to do the Windows XP repair. I would probably just be better to do a total re-instalation. I have Windows 7 Pro. 64bit. But as of right now my microsoft sidewinder force feedback wheel isn't compatible with 64bit. That's why I'm still running Win. XP. Thanks for your help.


Why don't you just install both and make your system a dual boot system all you need to do is partition your had disk off so that the 2 OS's are on separate partitions. I ran both XP pro and Win 7 for a long time after Win 7 came out it was handy to be able to use XP for the stuff that wouldn't run on 7 till they fixed them so they would run on 7. A good partitioning program for XP is EaseUS Partition Master Home Edition, you can get it from Cnet's www.download.com, just type in partition master in the search bar at the top of their site. Now I've never done this with an SSD so I don't know if it would work or even if it's advisable so just a cation there if this sounds like something you'd like to try.


----------



## lilkuz2005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Why don't you just install both and make your system a dual boot system all you need to do is partition your had disk off so that the 2 OS's are on separate partitions. I ran both XP pro and Win 7 for a long time after Win 7 came out it was handy to be able to use XP for the stuff that wouldn't run on 7 till they fixed them so they would run on 7. A good partitioning program for XP is EaseUS Partition Master Home Edition, you can get it from Cnet's www.download.com, just type in partition master in the search bar at the top of their site. Now I've never done this with an SSD so I don't know if it would work or even if it's advisable so just a cation there if this sounds like something you'd like to try.


he could also get a 2nd hdd and install win xp on 1 drive then win 7 on the other, then use his bios to pick the drive that he wants to boot, this is the way that i have my system set up. i like it this way because you dont mess with MBR's and you can use your full disk for each OS


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> unlocking would just be a bonus-not expecting it.
> more wanting a higher NB and ram
> -dimwit-


The CPU/NB speed really depends on what speed you run the CPU at, for instance a CPU @ 3.2Ghz would need a CPU/NB speed of 2000Mhz to give enough headroom to prevent bottle necking and a CPU @ 6.0Ghz would need a CPU/NB of 3800Mhz, so if you plan to run at 4.0/4.2Ghz you will need at least 2600Mhz. The higher the CPU/NB frequency the more bandwidth you will get but the downside is it introduces instability necessitating increases in the CPU/NB voltage, it depends on whether you are prepared to risk the extra voltage you will be putting through the IMC in the chip and the increased heat it generates, any increase in frequency on an electrical circuit generates more heat even before you increase the voltage. I personally always use G.Skill ram as I have never had problems with it and it has a lifetime guarantee. In this board I am running 16gig of G.Skill RipjawsX F3-17000CL9Q-16GBXLD @ 9-11-9-28-40-1T-1.65v @ 2133Mhz, the bandwidth in AIDA64 is 34,133GB/s.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> The CPU/NB speed really depends on what speed you run the CPU at, for instance a CPU @ 3.2Ghz would need a CPU/NB speed of 2000Mhz to give enough headroom to prevent bottle necking and a CPU @ 6.0Ghz would need a CPU/NB of 3800Mhz, so if you plan to run at 4.0/4.2Ghz you will need at least 2600Mhz. The higher the CPU/NB frequency the more bandwidth you will get but the downside is it introduces instability necessitating increases in the CPU/NB voltage, it depends on whether you are prepared to risk the extra voltage you will be putting through the IMC in the chip and the increased heat it generates, any increase in frequency on an electrical circuit generates more heat even before you increase the voltage. I personally always use G.Skill ram as I have never had problems with it and it has a lifetime guarantee. In this board I am running 16gig of G.Skill RipjawsX F3-17000CL9Q-16GBXLD @ 9-11-9-28-40-1T-1.65v @ 2133Mhz, the bandwidth in AIDA64 is 34,133GB/s.


thank you for your reply.
i am aware of the dangers of overclocking-been doing it for years.
i have used G Skill ram, always been good to me, looking at the cl9 1866 (2x4gig).
i have also used Mushkin (my favorite) Corsair, OCZ etc...
most of the reason for the upgrade/sidegrade is because i am tired of messing with the 955 and want to try something else.
i am also helping a good friend out by selling him my 955 and 1600 ram for a $100 total.

-dimwit-


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilkuz2005*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Why don't you just install both and make your system a dual boot system all you need to do is partition your had disk off so that the 2 OS's are on separate partitions. I ran both XP pro and Win 7 for a long time after Win 7 came out it was handy to be able to use XP for the stuff that wouldn't run on 7 till they fixed them so they would run on 7. A good partitioning program for XP is EaseUS Partition Master Home Edition, you can get it from Cnet's www.download.com, just type in partition master in the search bar at the top of their site. Now I've never done this with an SSD so I don't know if it would work or even if it's advisable so just a cation there if this sounds like something you'd like to try.
> 
> 
> 
> he could also get a 2nd hdd and install win xp on 1 drive then win 7 on the other, then use his bios to pick the drive that he wants to boot, this is the way that i have my system set up. i like it this way because you dont mess with MBR's and you can use your full disk for each OS
Click to expand...

Yep that works too


----------



## cgpeanut

My new Sabertooth FX-990 MB with FX-4100 CPU, 16GB Corsair Vengeance, H80 CPU cooler, Kingston V200 64GB SATA III SSD, Sapphire HD 6950 2GB unlocked, Antec 850W TruePower Quatro housed in black NZXT H2 Classic.



http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2135303

Seems to be stable at 4.6 ghz







we'll see...


----------



## lilkuz2005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgpeanut*
> 
> My new Sabertooth FX-990 MB with FX-4100 CPU, 16GB Corsair Vengeance, H80 CPU cooler, Kingston V200 64GB SATA III SSD, Sapphire HD 6950 2GB unlocked, housed in black NZXT H2 Classic.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2135303
> Seems to be stable at 4.6 ghz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> we'll see...


very nice and solid looking build


----------



## theamdman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> 6c... with a d14... are you in the arctic circle...


I'll post a vid here soon...


----------



## vartok

anyone else get lower OCs on the 0813 BIOS? i know 2 or 3 ppl said it after it came out... im still running on the 0810


----------



## enmariack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> anyone else get lower OCs on the 0813 BIOS? i know 2 or 3 ppl said it after it came out... im still running on the 0810


I'm still running at the exact same OC I was at before just fine with 0813... I'm also using a very different CPU than you.


----------



## dimwit13

well i should have my 960T tomorrow.
i am running 0705 bios, with no problems-should i upgrade?
if so, to the newest one?

thanks.

-dimwit-


----------



## enmariack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> well i should have my 960T tomorrow.
> i am running 0705 bios, with no problems-should i upgrade?
> if so, to the newest one?
> thanks.
> -dimwit-


If you're upgrading to a new CPU, now may be a good time to update the BIOS too.

On the other hand, a talking clock in a Disney movie taught me "If it isn't baroque, don't fix it."


----------



## Mistral

The only problem with that is people get rid of their old CPU then find the BIOS doesn't support the new one, it's always safer to flash to a supporting BIOS before fitting a new chip, the 960T has been supported since ver. 0404, the 0813 BIOS is fine but some people are having BSOD's with steam games on the bulldozer chips and 0813 hasn't completely fixed it but there is is a new BIOS in verification, it's already released for the Crosshair V.


----------



## Metro.Is.King

Hi guys.

I have this board and have been overclocking my Phenom 2 955 cpu recently. I have reached a max stable in prime95 and Battlefield 3 of 3.9Ghz, 2600mhz on FSB

Sometimes i forget to put my cou cooler on "turbo" mode, and when i do, the cpu reaches 67-70C

This in itself is not worrying, becuase it hardly happens, and with "turbo" mode enabled on the cpu fan it stays under 60 at full load.

MY VCORE 1 and 2, however remain consistently 1-3C above my CPU temp, sometimes hittin 70-72C.
I know the cpu has a max temp of 62C and I generally dont exceed it, but what are the max VCORE temps? Is it safe to assume they are as resilient to temperature as my cpu? So i should keep them below 60C?

This is going to be hard, because even with all my chassis fans and cpu fans on max, and my overclcocked GPU and custom fan profile dumping heat into my case, my VCORE often temps go up to 65C


----------



## kegga_62

I should be receiving my Asus Sabertooth 990FX motherboard today. Now I'm thinking I want a new prossesor to go into the new motherboard. I was thinking about a: AMD Phenom II X6 1100T Processor, Black Edition. As of right now I have a AMD Phenom II X4 955 Processor, Black Edition. I was just wondering what people thought about the CPU upgrade ?


----------



## tkerpj

Zosma then unlock it to 6 core


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metro.Is.King*
> 
> Hi guys.
> I have this board and have been overclocking my Phenom 2 955 cpu recently. I have reached a max stable in prime95 and Battlefield 3 of 3.9Ghz, 2600mhz on FSB
> Sometimes i forget to put my cou cooler on "turbo" mode, and when i do, the cpu reaches 67-70C
> This in itself is not worrying, becuase it hardly happens, and with "turbo" mode enabled on the cpu fan it stays under 60 at full load.
> MY VCORE 1 and 2, however remain consistently 1-3C above my CPU temp, sometimes hittin 70-72C.
> I know the cpu has a max temp of 62C and I generally dont exceed it, but what are the max VCORE temps? Is it safe to assume they are as resilient to temperature as my cpu? So i should keep them below 60C?
> This is going to be hard, because even with all my chassis fans and cpu fans on max, and my overclcocked GPU and custom fan profile dumping heat into my case, my VCORE often temps go up to 65C


Dont panic,most mosfets can exceed 90c.
Just keep an eye on it.

However,keep the CPU below 55c for best stability. The max temp is 62c but stability is compromised after 55c.
You neglected to mention what cooler you have,if its stock,junk it for an aftermarket unit.


----------



## Metro.Is.King

[\quote]Dont panic,most mosfets can exceed 90c.
Just keep an eye on it.
However,keep the CPU below 55c for best stability. The max temp is 62c but stability is compromised after 55c.
You neglected to mention what cooler you have,if its stock,junk it for an aftermarket unit.[/quote]

Thanks for the help. I have a Dark Rock Pro, keeping the CPU below 55C isnt an option when playing Battlefield 3 especially 64 player maps. And I play BF3 fairly often.

Do you think i should underclock it a bit, it used to stay around 50C on full load at 3.2Ghz.

Ive been running at 3.9Ghz and 58C-61C full load for a couple months now, bought the processor 14 months ago, how much life do you think the processor has in it if i continue at this temp?


----------



## DjWolf37

add me please. I just got my new build up and running this week. I just started overclocking an hour ago and could use some help.


----------



## kegga_62

I got my Asus Sabertooth 990FX today. I'm going to install it Wednesday.


----------



## Boomstick68

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjWolf37*
> 
> add me please. I just got my new build up and running this week. I just started overclocking an hour ago and could use some help.


I used to have that Antec full tower server case. I miss it.


----------



## Boomstick68

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilkuz2005*
> 
> very nice and solid looking build


Indeed.


----------



## firestorm1

any news on the new bios for our board?


----------



## ht_addict

Can not get the ASUS AI software to work. Every time I try to install it it gives me this


----------



## AccellGarage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> any news on the new bios for our board?


Still 0813, maybe Christmas or last year will Bios new version relase







. So Crosshair V was relased BIOS 1003 yesterday 9 Dec 2011


----------



## firestorm1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict*
> 
> Can not get the ASUS AI software to work. Every time I try to install it it gives me this


use your motherboard cd to install ai suite


----------



## lilkuz2005

i have modded the latest BIOS ver. 0813 with an ASUS slic 2.1 and ASUS SLP . with this bios you can install windows 7 ASUS OEM editions and it will be fully activated. i also have BIOS ver. 0705 modded as well, if anyone wants it let me know.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metro.Is.King*
> 
> [\quote]
> Thanks for the help. I have a Dark Rock Pro, keeping the CPU below 55C isnt an option when playing Battlefield 3 especially 64 player maps. And I play BF3 fairly often.
> Do you think i should underclock it a bit, it used to stay around 50C on full load at 3.2Ghz.
> Ive been running at 3.9Ghz and 58C-61C full load for a couple months now, bought the processor 14 months ago, how much life do you think the processor has in it if i continue at this temp?


I would go for a remount myself,you temps do seem high. With the stock x6 cooler i can OC to around 3.6 before i hit 55c under load,

I cant give you a lifespan on your chip really,it depends on volts,heat and abuse. My b55 unlocked at 4ghz i have had about 18 months and is still going strong. It is WC tho but crunching 24/7


----------



## dimwit13

good news.
my 960T unlocked
not too bad, hex core for $110.
ran a quick 10 minutes of Everest Stability test and she didnt crash.
now time to mess with it.










-dimwit-


----------



## theamdman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilkuz2005*
> 
> 
> i have modded the latest BIOS ver. 0813 with an ASUS slic 2.1 and ASUS SLP . with this bios you can install windows 7 ASUS OEM editions and it will be fully activated. i also have BIOS ver. 0705 modded as well, if anyone wants it let me know.


can i get that......


----------



## reaperUK

add me!!
ignore my poor cabling!!!


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> good news.
> my 960T unlocked
> not too bad, hex core for $110.
> ran a quick 10 minutes of Everest Stability test and she didnt crash.
> now time to mess with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -dimwit-


Would you mind running cinebench on that Zosma and posting the CMU score?


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sequoia464*
> 
> Would you mind running cinebench on that Zosma and posting the CMU score?


nothing is overclocked.
ram set to 1600.










-dimwit-


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> nothing is overclocked.
> ram set to 1600.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -dimwit-


Thanks - My FX6100 at 4001MHz gives me a score of 4.90. I have a 960T also - looks like I need to work with it (the 960T) some more.


----------



## Boomstick68

Would love to see a good overclocking guide for this mobo and a FX 4100.


----------



## lilkuz2005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theamdman*
> 
> can i get that......


here is a link to the thread that i started that has both the 0705 and 0813 BIOS updates, let me know if you have any problems with it, i flashed my own bios with asus AI suit, but im sure the other ways will work as well.

http://www.bios-mods.com/forum/Thread-ASUS-Sabertooth-990fx-Slic-2-1


----------



## cgpeanut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boomstick68*
> 
> Would love to see a good overclocking guide for this mobo and a FX 4100.


Yes please someone post a guide, I got mine stable at 4.4 GHZ anything above I get a bsod, with the corsair H80 liquid cooler my core temp never reached above 31c I'd be happy with 4.7 ghz stable with core temp of less than 41c.


----------



## jchambers2586

Any one running SLI on this board?


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgpeanut*
> 
> Yes please someone post a guide, I got mine stable at 4.4 GHZ anything above I get a bsod, with the corsair H80 liquid cooler my core temp never reached above 31c I'd be happy with 4.7 ghz stable with core temp of less than 41c.


What cpu?
I'm on custom water with an FX-6100 overclocked to 4.7 Stable and it loads out synthetic load about 60*c.


----------



## theamdman

He isn't cranking up the CPU-NB vCore.


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sequoia464*
> 
> Thanks - My FX6100 at 4001MHz gives me a score of 4.90. I have a 960T also - looks like I need to work with it (the 960T) some more.


You should be able to push the FX-6100 on this board. I have the same thing. I'm stable at 4.7Ghz on water and can load windows up to 5ghz.
at 4.7Ghz I get consistant 5.72 cinebench scores. at 4.9-5Ghz I get 6-6.02 cinebench. just cant quite get 4.9 Stable.


----------



## Boomstick68

I was able to boot windows and run Cinebench with a 4800mhz OC on my FX 4100 but not stable enough to run Prime95. I really need to know how to fine tune my settings but there aren't any guides or people willing to give up their stable settings. I feel I'm close but I feel my memory is the culprit. I have 8gb Corsair Vengeance 1600 but they won't OC for ****. Then again, it may just be a voltage issue. I put 1.55 to the VCore and I"m not willing to push more than that. At least until I find out the actual limit for this cpu. This mobo, however, is the OC'rs dream, if you understand all that mumbo jumbo.


----------



## cgpeanut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boomstick68*
> 
> I was able to boot windows and run Cinebench with a 4800mhz OC on my FX 4100 but not stable enough to run Prime95. I really need to know how to fine tune my settings but there aren't any guides or people willing to give up their stable settings. I feel I'm close but I feel my memory is the culprit. I have 8gb Corsair Vengeance 1600 but they won't OC for ****. Then again, it may just be a voltage issue. I put 1.55 to the VCore and I"m not willing to push more than that. At least until I find out the actual limit for this cpu. This mobo, however, is the OC'rs dream, if you understand all that mumbo jumbo.


I'm on the same boat, FX-4100 with Vengeance 16GB Quad Channel Kit DDR3 1600 MHz 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9 + Corsair H80 liquid cooler, Can't go beyond 4.65 GHZ anything beyond that BSOD.

Did you choose the DDR3-1600 Mhz option in th BIOS? I had to choose DDR3-1333 Mhz to be stable anything else get a BSOD. I'm getting adequate cooling though, x2 120mm fans upfront, x1 140mm sucking air up top, and x2 120mm push-pull config on the radiator my temp don't go pass 31c .

I think I can get 4.8 GHZ no problem just need some guidance


----------



## Boomstick68

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgpeanut*
> 
> I'm on the same boat, FX-4100 with Vengeance 16GB Quad Channel Kit DDR3 1600 MHz 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9 + Corsair H80 liquid cooler, Can't go beyond 4.65 GHZ anything beyond that BSOD.
> Did you choose the DDR3-1600 Mhz option in th BIOS? I had to choose DDR3-1333 Mhz to be stable anything else get a BSOD. I'm getting adequate cooling though, x2 120mm fans upfront, x1 140mm sucking air up top, and x2 120mm push-pull config on the radiator my temp don't go pass 31c .
> I think I can get 4.8 GHZ no problem just need some guidance


Same here. We are almost there. I'd be more than happy with a stable 4.7, 4.8. Hell, I might even keep the 4100.


----------



## iced00d

Good morning. Over the past weekend, I needed to upgrade my current motherboard - ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3 - with an SLI compatiable one. After doing some reasearch, I decided to go with the Asus Sabertooth. Not only because of the SLI features I needed, but because of the OC rating. After ripping my watercooling system apart and mounting the board, and reassembling everything, I found out that I had to do a fresh install of Windows 7 (Ultimate x64) . TG I had a backup of my system before hand After loading windows and ALL of the patches, I installed all the drivers from the CD and even checked the web page for bios and or system driver updates which I did.

The problem that I'm running into now, is windows seems very sluggish when loading. What use to be a couple of minutes from pushing the start button to loading windows and all of the initial startup files, now seems to be taking almost 7mins to just load. Thinking it was my hard drive I cloned the drive but have the same problem. I've checked the bios and have even set it back to the defaults (except for the fan options seeing that I don't have any) and I get the same problem. I eventually want to get this puppy up and running and even try out some OCing if I ever get that far. If not looks like an RMA and back to HyperSLI & M4A89GTD again >.< , which I'd hate to do. Thanks in advance...

System -

* Asus Sabertooth 990FX (current bios)
* AMD Phenom II X6 1090T Black Edition Thuban 3.2GHz
* 16GB RAM - (2x) G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3- 12800CL9D-8GBRL
* Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 1.5TB SATA drive


----------



## Th3Gatekeep3r

I just noticed that my validation didnt have my ocn name on it, updated:


Also, I haven't searched yet... but is there a way with this board to ignore no cpu fan being installed? For some reason the stupid thing wont spool down any and I want to move the fan I have hooked up to that header to a CHA_FAN header, but it will prompt me to hit F1 every boot...

Also, I'm wondering what our PCI spacing is, I want to guess 2.4" but I am not positive. This is in regards to THIS crossfire parallel bridge.


----------



## Boomstick68

Finally was able to achieve a stable OC of 4600mhz. Over 4 hours stable on Prime95. Still thinking there is more room but I'll stick with this for now.


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th3Gatekeep3r*
> 
> I just noticed that my validation didnt have my ocn name on it, updated:
> 
> Also, I haven't searched yet... but is there a way with this board to ignore no cpu fan being installed? For some reason the stupid thing wont spool down any and I want to move the fan I have hooked up to that header to a CHA_FAN header, but it will prompt me to hit F1 every boot...
> Also, I'm wondering what our PCI spacing is, I want to guess 2.4" but I am not positive. This is in regards to THIS crossfire parallel bridge.


I'm on water so only have one fan connected to the mb, there are settings in the bios you can set the fan headers to ignore and it wont prompt you about them.


----------



## Bradford1040

I know I have not been on much since the OCN change and I am sorry about that just doesn't look and feel right I don't know why I am so turned off by it but I found out something that I wanted to share

I don't know 100% why but my 8150 likes the VDDA volt turned down from auto which was 2.49~2.50 and I got the most stable 5ghz OC out of this chip by turning down a volt setting lol if you can believe it!!! I
am sitting at 2.42 at the moment and able to prime at 5ghz and better yet play games and BF3 loves the higher clocks I guess as my Frames shot up to avg of 75fps on max ultra with HOBO on and my min only hit 52fps from what I saw sorry
did not record it but mite for the tube!

So to try and sum it up if your chip is oc'ing ok but you want a little more out of it try lowering (lol) the VDDA volts (in the bios not AI suite) and post if it worked maybe it is just my chip but anyone that trys it and it works post it


----------



## chosenv3

Hi Guys,

Sorry if this has already been covered but I need advice on what processor to get for my sabertooth 990FX S/L.

Im thinking of getting an Intel i5 (below)

Intel Sandybridge i5-2500K Unlocked Core i5 Quad-Core Processor (3.30GHz, 6MB Cache, Socket 1155)

Would this be compatible? it appears to be the best one in my price range but processors were always my weak point!

Or is there another processor that you recommend around £150/$200 price mark.

Many Thanks


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chosenv3*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> Sorry if this has already been covered but I need advice on what processor to get for my sabertooth 990FX S/L.
> Im thinking of getting an Intel i5 (below)
> Intel Sandybridge i5-2500K Unlocked Core i5 Quad-Core Processor (3.30GHz, 6MB Cache, Socket 1155)
> Would this be compatible? it appears to be the best one in my price range but processors were always my weak point!
> Or is there another processor that you recommend around £150/$200 price mark.
> Many Thanks


sorry man but the Sabertooth 990FX will only run AMD cpus.
if you want to run a Intel cpu, look for a Intel Sabertooth Motherboard.

-dimwit-

if you need help choosing a AMD cpu, we can help,


----------



## reaperUK

add me!!!

ID : 2145835
Submitted by SABERTOOTH-PC | Tue, 13 Dec 2011 09:29:56 +0100 | Validated by CPU-Z 1.59

AMD Phenom II X4 965

Windows 7 Ultimate Edition SP1 (Build 7601)

CPU Arch : 1 CPU - 4 Cores - 4 Threads
CPU PSN : AMD Phenom II X4 965 Processor
CPU EXT : MMX(+), 3DNow!(+), SSE (1, 2, 3, 4A), x86-64, AMD-V
CPUID : F.4.3 / Extended : 10.4
CPU Cache : L1 : 4 x 64 / 4 x 64 KB - L2 : 4 x 512 KB
CPU Cache : L3 : 6144 KB
Core : Deneb (45 nm) / Stepping : RB-C3

Freq : 3712.54 MHz (200.68 * 18.5)

MB Brand : Asus
MB Model : SABERTOOTH 990FX
NB : AMD RD9x0 rev 02
SB : AMD SB950 rev 40

GPU Type : NVIDIA GeForce GTX 460
GPU Clocks : Core 773 MHz / RAM 1900 MHz
DirectX Version : 11.0

RAM : 8192 MB DDR3 Dual Channel
RAM Speed : 668.9 MHz (3:10) @ 9-9-9-24
Slot 1 : 2048MB (10700)
Slot 1 Manufacturer : Corsair
Slot 2 : 2048MB (10700)
Slot 2 Manufacturer : Corsair
Slot 3 : 2048MB (10700)
Slot 3 Manufacturer : Corsair
Slot 4 : 2048MB (10700)
Slot 4 Manufacturer : Corsair

CPU-Z Forum Banner (BB Code below)

CPU-Z Validator 3.2 - Copyright 2005-2010 (c) Samuel D. / Franck D. - Visit us at http://www.canardpc.com / cpuid.com


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*
> 
> I know I have not been on much since the OCN change and I am sorry about that just doesn't look and feel right I don't know why I am so turned off by it but I found out something that I wanted to share
> I don't know 100% why but my 8150 likes the VDDA volt turned down from auto which was 2.49~2.50 and I got the most stable 5ghz OC out of this chip by turning down a volt setting lol if you can believe it!!! I
> am sitting at 2.42 at the moment and able to prime at 5ghz and better yet play games and BF3 loves the higher clocks I guess as my Frames shot up to avg of 75fps on max ultra with HOBO on and my min only hit 52fps from what I saw sorry
> did not record it but mite for the tube!
> So to try and sum it up if your chip is oc'ing ok but you want a little more out of it try lowering (lol) the VDDA volts (in the bios not AI suite) and post if it worked maybe it is just my chip but anyone that trys it and it works post it


I'll try this on my 6100 tonight. I'm just shy of getting 4.9-5Ghz stable. that would be nice.


----------



## Th3Gatekeep3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> I'm on water so only have one fan connected to the mb, there are settings in the bios you can set the fan headers to ignore and it wont prompt you about them.


Can you recall what area of the bios is was in? I rummaged around in there and couldnt find it...


----------



## firestorm1

go into advance settings. its the 3rd or 4th tab over. then scroll all the way down and your options to ignore will be there.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boomstick68*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cgpeanut*
> 
> I'm on the same boat, FX-4100 with Vengeance 16GB Quad Channel Kit DDR3 1600 MHz 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9 + Corsair H80 liquid cooler, Can't go beyond 4.65 GHZ anything beyond that BSOD.
> Did you choose the DDR3-1600 Mhz option in th BIOS? I had to choose DDR3-1333 Mhz to be stable anything else get a BSOD. I'm getting adequate cooling though, x2 120mm fans upfront, x1 140mm sucking air up top, and x2 120mm push-pull config on the radiator my temp don't go pass 31c .
> I think I can get 4.8 GHZ no problem just need some guidance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same here. We are almost there. I'd be more than happy with a stable 4.7, 4.8. Hell, I might even keep the 4100.
Click to expand...

I got a dumb question, are ether of you using the 705 bios if so upgrade it asap as the 705 bios will not overclock the FX chips at all (well anything worth a dam I should say)


----------



## Boomstick68

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*
> 
> I got a dumb question, are ether of you using the 705 bios if so upgrade it asap as the 705 bios will not overclock the FX chips at all (well anything worth a dam I should say)


Negative. The very first thing I did was update to 813.


----------



## capitaltpt

Just picked up a 1090T to replace my 955 BE. Still a little bit of a noob at overclocking. Have read all the guides, but wanted a few suggestions here given the bios options on this board. Screen shot below is where I am now, stable after 15 minutes of Prime95 Blend (I will run 8 hours tonight if settings are good). Biggest concern is temps at this point. Highest I saw in 15 minutes was 58° on CPU and 66° on VCORE-1. NB HT was 46°. Are these ok for 24/7 use? Haven't played with RAM timings yet, but Any suggestions for settings to change?

Current BIOS: 0402 (Any reason to update?)
CPU LLC: Extreme
CPU/NB LLC: Extreme
CPU Phase Control: Extreme (Full Phase)


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt*
> 
> Just picked up a 1090T to replace my 955 BE. Still a little bit of a noob at overclocking. Have read all the guides, but wanted a few suggestions here given the bios options on this board. Screen shot below is where I am now, stable after 15 minutes of Prime95 Blend (I will run 8 hours tonight if settings are good). Biggest concern is temps at this point. Highest I saw in 15 minutes was 58° on CPU and 66° on VCORE-1. NB HT was 46°. Are these ok for 24/7 use? Haven't played with RAM timings yet, but Any suggestions for settings to change?
> 
> Current BIOS: 0402 (Any reason to update?)
> CPU LLC: Extreme
> CPU/NB LLC: Extreme
> CPU Phase Control: Extreme (Full Phase)


never a good to update if it is working (the bios) I was very happy with the 402 bios with my 970BE chip in fact it was the most stable my system ever was intill now
But I am using a FX-8150 so I had to upgrade. I had my 970BE at 4.4 24/7 stable and it was very good to me vs the other boards I have run it on
some complain about this board but once you learn it and your chip it will overclock better than most other boards! I would not worry about the BIOS at all unless you are having problems with sata
or with the chipset which I never did. there are many things about overclocking a AMD that are way different than Intel first off the best speed is gotten from OC'ing the
CPU/NB speed try getting it up to 3000mhz but most stable out at 2800mhz the cpu/nb is basically your IMC which is memory speed to the CPU so that is just as important if not
the most important to OC then bump up your CPU with both multi and FSB which is stock at 200mhz but as you step up the FSB watch your memory speed and HT and cpu/nb muti's


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*
> 
> never a good to update if it is working (the bios) I was very happy with the 402 bios with my 970BE chip in fact it was the most stable my system ever was intill now
> But I am using a FX-8150 so I had to upgrade. I had my 970BE at 4.4 24/7 stable and it was very good to me vs the other boards I have run it on
> some complain about this board but once you learn it and your chip it will overclock better than most other boards! I would not worry about the BIOS at all unless you are having problems with sata
> or with the chipset which I never did. there are many things about overclocking a AMD that are way different than Intel first off the best speed is gotten from OC'ing the
> CPU/NB speed try getting it up to 3000mhz but most stable out at 2800mhz the cpu/nb is basically your IMC which is memory speed to the CPU so that is just as important if not
> the most important to OC then bump up your CPU with both multi and FSB which is stock at 200mhz but as you step up the FSB watch your memory speed and HT and cpu/nb muti's


Thanks for the input. Am I correct that I need to keep HT Link close to 2000 but can bump up CPU/NB? That's how i set it up in my screenshots.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt*
> 
> Thanks for the input. *Am I correct that I need to keep HT Link close to 2000 but can bump up CPU/NB?* That's how i set it up in my screenshots.


This is correct. There is no real advantage to clocking the HT link,stability can be compromised +/- 100mhz from stock.
AMD also respond very well to ref clocking and OCing this way will help your Ram clocking greatly!


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*
> 
> never a good to update if it is working (the bios) I was very happy with the 402 bios with my 970BE chip in fact it was the most stable my system ever was intill now
> But I am using a FX-8150 so I had to upgrade. I had my 970BE at 4.4 24/7 stable and it was very good to me vs the other boards I have run it on
> some complain about this board but once you learn it and your chip it will overclock better than most other boards! I would not worry about the BIOS at all unless you are having problems with sata
> or with the chipset which I never did. there are many things about overclocking a AMD that are way different than Intel first off the best speed is gotten from OC'ing the
> CPU/NB speed try getting it up to 3000mhz but most stable out at 2800mhz the cpu/nb is basically your IMC which is memory speed to the CPU so that is just as important if not
> the most important to OC then bump up your CPU with both multi and FSB which is stock at 200mhz but as you step up the FSB watch your memory speed and HT and cpu/nb muti's
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input. Am I correct that I need to keep HT Link close to 2000 but can bump up CPU/NB? That's how i set it up in my screenshots.
Click to expand...

yeah you got it set about perfect but there is a little vantage (very little) to raising the HT above 2000 in fact it is almost better to leave it at around 2000 or close to it on the high side as possible
just a FYI the high volts on the cpu is 1.55 and the cpu/nb is 1.45 and watch temps as they both raise the cpu temps up. I have taken mine higher but only on water cooling and with Indigo Extreme TIM
but to tell the truth unless you are needing more on FPS in your games there is no need to go above 4ghz or 4.1ghz anyway you won't see anything at the desktop level!

The only reason I OC'ed my chips is gaming FPS as muti video cards or SLI/crossfire LOVE and I mean LOVE the cpu speed for scaling, I do run benchmarks but only for myself to see if a setting is doing better or worse
They really don't mean anything but useful also Prime is not all that important to run for 12hrs unless you do video editing or CAD work or something that will take a long time to complete. You can run it for a hour to test stabity
anymore than that is just a waste of CPU life and time IMHO, I have ran it for hours and was 100% stable and BSOD'ed surfing the net lol. So it just goes to show you that running it for that amount of time proves really nothing


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*
> 
> yeah you got it set about perfect but there is a little vantage (very little) to raising the HT above 2000 in fact it is almost better to leave it at around 2000 or close to it on the high side as possible
> just a FYI the high volts on the cpu is 1.55 and the cpu/nb is 1.45 and watch temps as they both raise the cpu temps up. I have taken mine higher but only on water cooling and with Indigo Extreme TIM
> but to tell the truth unless you are needing more on FPS in your games there is no need to go above 4ghz or 4.1ghz anyway you won't see anything at the desktop level!
> The only reason I OC'ed my chips is gaming FPS as muti video cards or SLI/crossfire LOVE and I mean LOVE the cpu speed for scaling, I do run benchmarks but only for myself to see if a setting is doing better or worse
> They really don't mean anything but useful also Prime is not all that important to run for 12hrs unless you do video editing or CAD work or something that will take a long time to complete. You can run it for a hour to test stabity
> anymore than that is just a waste of CPU life and time IMHO, I have ran it for hours and was 100% stable and BSOD'ed surfing the net lol. So it just goes to show you that running it for that amount of time proves really nothing


A combination of LinX,Prime 95 Blend and small fft and BOINC will find any weak spots.
I agree with not really needing 12hr tests but 6 hrs is good,especially if you crunch.


----------



## Boomstick68

Having my first issue with this build. A USB device is causing my system to hang on restart/shut down, approx. 30 seconds. I found the device causing the problem and reinstalled the drivers but it is still making my system hang. The device is working properly other than not playing well with WIN 7. Maybe reinstalling USB drivers?


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*
> 
> yeah you got it set about perfect but there is a little vantage (very little) to raising the HT above 2000 in fact it is almost better to leave it at around 2000 or close to it on the high side as possible
> just a FYI the high volts on the cpu is 1.55 and the cpu/nb is 1.45 and watch temps as they both raise the cpu temps up. I have taken mine higher but only on water cooling and with Indigo Extreme TIM
> but to tell the truth unless you are needing more on FPS in your games there is no need to go above 4ghz or 4.1ghz anyway you won't see anything at the desktop level!
> The only reason I OC'ed my chips is gaming FPS as muti video cards or SLI/crossfire LOVE and I mean LOVE the cpu speed for scaling, I do run benchmarks but only for myself to see if a setting is doing better or worse
> They really don't mean anything but useful also Prime is not all that important to run for 12hrs unless you do video editing or CAD work or something that will take a long time to complete. You can run it for a hour to test stabity
> anymore than that is just a waste of CPU life and time IMHO, I have ran it for hours and was 100% stable and BSOD'ed surfing the net lol. So it just goes to show you that running it for that amount of time proves really nothing


Thanks. I actually do a lot of video editing which is the main reason for getting a 6 core over the 955 I had. I don't like to waste time burning up the CPU either, but I'll typically run Prime95 at night before I go to bed. If I get up in the morning without issues, I figure I have a solid system.


----------



## iced00d

Guys, I could really use some help/advise here. This is sooo confusing as to why my system is soooo sluglish... Tks in advance..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iced00d*
> 
> Good morning. Over the past weekend, I needed to upgrade my current motherboard - ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3 - with an SLI compatiable one. After doing some reasearch, I decided to go with the Asus Sabertooth. Not only because of the SLI features I needed, but because of the OC rating. After ripping my watercooling system apart and mounting the board, and reassembling everything, I found out that I had to do a fresh install of Windows 7 (Ultimate x64) . TG I had a backup of my system before hand After loading windows and ALL of the patches, I installed all the drivers from the CD and even checked the web page for bios and or system driver updates which I did.
> 
> The problem that I'm running into now, is windows seems very sluggish when loading. What use to be a couple of minutes from pushing the start button to loading windows and all of the initial startup files, now seems to be taking almost 7mins to just load. Thinking it was my hard drive I cloned the drive but have the same problem. I've checked the bios and have even set it back to the defaults (except for the fan options seeing that I don't have any) and I get the same problem. I eventually want to get this puppy up and running and even try out some OCing if I ever get that far. If not looks like an RMA and back to HyperSLI & M4A89GTD again >.< , which I'd hate to do. Thanks in advance...
> 
> System -
> 
> * Asus Sabertooth 990FX (current bios)
> * AMD Phenom II X6 1090T Black Edition Thuban 3.2GHz
> * 16GB RAM - (2x) G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3- 12800CL9D-8GBRL
> * Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 1.5TB SATA drive


----------



## Gyro

New bios 901 ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/SABERTOOTH_990FX/SABERTOOTH-990FX-ASUS-0901.zip
As usual it will be a day or two before it gets to the D/L page with details.

Gyro


----------



## firestorm1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gyro*
> 
> New bios 901 ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/SABERTOOTH_990FX/SABERTOOTH-990FX-ASUS-0901.zip
> As usual it will be a day or two before it gets to the D/L page with details.
> Gyro


ah i was wondering when that would be out. +rep for you.


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gyro*
> 
> New bios 901 ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/SABERTOOTH_990FX/SABERTOOTH-990FX-ASUS-0901.zip
> As usual it will be a day or two before it gets to the D/L page with details.
> Gyro


What issues does this bios address? wonder if I could get that golden 5.0Ghz with it.


----------



## Mistral

It's probably to fix the BSOD issues with steam games they already did it for the Crosshair V.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gyro*
> 
> New bios 901 ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/SABERTOOTH_990FX/SABERTOOTH-990FX-ASUS-0901.zip
> As usual it will be a day or two before it gets to the D/L page with details.
> 
> Gyro


any idea on what it is expected to fix?

plus have you tried it yet?


----------



## Mistral

I'm running it now as far as I can tell there is no difference from 0813.


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> I'm running it now as far as I can tell there is no difference from 0813.


Your oc is no better?
I was hoping for a bios to get 4.9-5Ghz stable







I'm so close. its that dang 101 bsod that I get.

I already got past the game issue by dual booting win8 and the games work flawlessly.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> I'm running it now as far as I can tell there is no difference from 0813.


oh there is a difference! I got my portal2 to work finally after months of it not working! Plus it is scaling a little better as far as I can tell
and also it fixed the IMC problems with sandra where as before it reported the IMC at 3.6ghz and now it reports what ever you have it set at in the bios (cpu/nb)
I also noticed that it raised my score on 3dmark06 about 1000 points (still not there yet but only need to fix a few more things and we will have a 2600k killer)

I mean I beat my 2600 in some things but not when it comes to memory management, I only get 13.5gbs on the 8150 and 16.8 on the 2600k

101 BSOD is low or high v core BTW! I don't know why but my chip has always been able to hit 5ghz and my volts are 1.43250 with llc at extreme and 140% which the volts hit 1.45 in windows underload


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> Your oc is no better?
> I was hoping for a bios to get 4.9-5Ghz stable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm so close. its that dang 101 bsod that I get.
> I already got past the game issue by dual booting win8 and the games work flawlessly.


I've flashed back to 0813 I found 0901 a bit flaky it wanted higher ram latencies and the memory bandwidth was slightly lower, it could possibly have been a bad flash but 0813 suits my system better and I didn't have problems with steam in the first place.


----------



## Gyro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*
> 
> any idea on what it is expected to fix?
> plus have you tried it yet?


It'll be a day or two before we know,but I would think it should be close to what is in the CHV updates.
I don't have the board yet







but I plan to ditch this M4N98td POS shortly after the holidays.Just missed a one day 990fx ST sale at Newegg.ca $179.99 w/fs.Want to sli my Asus 460 1gb but they out of stock.

Thanks for the rep.Glad to help

I check the FTP site several times a day hoping for some sort of update(LLC) for the M4N98,but no luck.

Gyro


----------



## seraphicsorcerer

0901 Fixes the Portal 2 and Shogun 2 Errors for FX-8150, I actually found it to be more solid and now can overclock higher except that for some reason cpu-z willl not validate my overclock

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2148009

Im loving it.


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seraphicsorcerer*
> 
> 0901 Fixes the Portal 2 and Shogun 2 Errors for FX-8150, I actually found it to be more solid and now can overclock higher except that for some reason cpu-z willl not validate my overclock
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2148009
> Im loving it.


I had exactly the opposite results with it on my FX-6100.
I can not run my cpu/nb or ht link as high and benchmark scores have taken a hit. I'm going back to previous UEFI


----------



## seraphicsorcerer

how exactly are you setting up your voltages? I've found this thing can be very specific on how it wants its voltages set for specific frequencies. I can post pics of my over clock if you want, which btw is an awesome feature. of course im not sure if it will help being a 6100 and all, those arent unlocked, right?


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seraphicsorcerer*
> 
> how exactly are you setting up your voltages? I've found this thing can be very specific on how it wants its voltages set for specific frequencies. I can post pics of my over clock if you want, which btw is an awesome feature. of course im not sure if it will help being a 6100 and all, those arent unlocked, right?


all FX are unlocked. its just 6 core rather than 8.
post your settings so I can see what ranges are being used on this mb. advantage I have over an FX-8xxx is I have a 10* higher max temp.

Thats another thing, I'm not sure what to set some things to to try. like the voltage frequency. I know intel like's 300-350 but what do amd's like?


----------



## ocmi_teddy

It's about the same, you can set it higher if you want better stability just going to heat up your mobo stuff more (not really the CPU though)


----------



## seraphicsorcerer

Not sure on frequency, I just set it to extreme so its full phase.

But here's my settings, I set it to calibration to ultra high, so it cuts a bit of the voltage, but allows it back because of the range offset.


----------



## ht_addict

Tried to install new BIOS but it says it is not EFI BIOS?? Help.


----------



## seraphicsorcerer

Filename should be SABERTOOTH-990FX-ASUS-0901.rom, I used Asus EZ flash 2 to install mine takes around a minute or so to do.
Otherwise you can also use a flash to make a ram disk, however, the EZ flash is the simpler route to go imo.


----------



## Bradford1040

I don't know if the two are related but I have had net framework 4 trouble, I think I got it fixed after pulling my hair out lol, as I just got done doing a fresh install yesterday! And I mean completely done,
so I was a little worried if you can feel me lol! I since now have uninstalled many things done a sfc /scannow and chkdsk /r and /f. I seem to have things straightened out, but I thought I mite say it on here
in case anyone else comes up with the same issue!

Other than that I am glad that they got the steam thing figured out, I was at the very least pissed about our CH V brothers having the patch so early on where as we had to wait, I still hope to get more out
of my chip even though it does multitask much better than all my other systems! I can do so many things at once and it keeps chugging! I also have a great cinebench score my 1100t was only able to hit 7.12
and that was full out not stable oc'ing it the 970BE got 5.10 and that was stable at 4.3ghz where as this thing broke 8.10 at 5ghz stable! I did get a score of 9.** but it was a fluke I guess cause a ran it right after
and it was 7.98 lol DAM lol. I also score nice against 2500k and 2600k in sandra 2600k oc'ed scores still are above me but creeping up with every patch lmao. I can say at this point I am happy I got it and mean it
not just trying to justify it to myself lol. I would not say go out and grab one yet but the new way of AMD chips mite just be the future after all.


----------



## firestorm1

i have a question. after i flashed to the new bios, i was adjusting my memory timings and i saw that memory hole remapping was enabled. i dont remember seeing that setting before. is that something new? what is it for?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> i have a question. after i flashed to the new bios, i was adjusting my memory timings and i saw that memory hole remapping was enabled. i dont remember seeing that setting before. is that something new? what is it for?


nah it's always been there, you can disable it or enable it I used to get stability from disabling it on my 970be but have seen no difference on the FX chip.

If you disable it BTW your memory in windows will be missing about a gig on ram showing but it is there and being used so don't worry about it


----------



## firestorm1

ah ok. ill just leave it as it is.


----------



## seraphicsorcerer

What I am wondering is if the system load calibration is now the ACC of the FX line (AM3+) Because if you remember the 790FX chipset that always had acc, which could squeeze a couple hundred mhz if you set it right, now it seems the load calibration is what helps me keep voltages from being to high, but there when it needs it.


----------



## DevilDriver

Thanks seraphicsorcerer








I'm right on the cusp of getting 4.82Ghz stable. Would be nice to actually get it.
You def are braver than me at putting those manual voltages through your hardware.


----------



## patricksiglin

anyone having problems waking up your computer from sleep? I can hibernate it just fine but if I put it to sleep and wake it up it allows me to log in but just freezes at the desktop.


----------



## iced00d

Welp I'm glad that my Charlie Brown luck still continues with this board This morning I decided to try the 'easy mode' way of overclocking by taking advantage of the 'easy mode' option in the bios. Selected 'performance', clicked save/reset and sure enough the box just sat there. No post. So after pwring down/restarting I held the Memory OK button and was able to get into the bios. Funny thing is that while looking in the bios, my options like cpu fan and case fan where still disabled. After saving/restarting the system showed 3.7GHz and was able to boot into windows, but I didn't have time to load Prime95. So now I'm wondering if its normal for this to happen or RMA this board and go back to my M4......


----------



## seraphicsorcerer

NP Devil Driver.

It's actually been fun, because for a while I was stuck at 4700 because of voltage issues when I went to extreme, it just was overvolting, then getting to hot.

If you go extreme, and say put a 1.38-1.4 voltage and spread it by 130% I got mine stable that way. for 4700Mhz, but for 4800+ Ive had to rethinkink it, because it wouldn't post before I changed the FSB and the ultra high settings etc.

But I have an H80 cooler which has been perfect with my Coolermaster HAF Case My Max temp under Intel Burn test is 61C But its 100% Stable.







My benchmarks are awesome.

As I said though, by actually putting it on "Ultra High instead of Extreme, it drops the voltages a bit under full load, helping keeps temps down, but I keep the range extreme, just in case it needs it. Under CPU-Z it will go from 1.464-1.488


----------



## seraphicsorcerer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iced00d*
> 
> Welp I'm glad that my Charlie Brown luck still continues with this board This morning I decided to try the 'easy mode' way of overclocking by taking advantage of the 'easy mode' option in the bios. Selected 'performance', clicked save/reset and sure enough the box just sat there. No post. So after pwring down/restarting I held the Memory OK button and was able to get into the bios. Funny thing is that while looking in the bios, my options like cpu fan and case fan where still disabled. After saving/restarting the system showed 3.7GHz and was able to boot into windows, but I didn't have time to load Prime95. So now I'm wondering if its normal for this to happen or RMA this board and go back to my M4......


If you just hold the power button down until it shuts off, then put it back on, it will reboot with failsafe defaults, and say "Overclocking Failed! Press F1 to enter setup" Instead of having to take off your case, or leave it off.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seraphicsorcerer*
> 
> NP Devil Driver.
> 
> It's actually been fun, because for a while I was stuck at 4700 because of voltage issues when I went to extreme, it just was overvolting, then getting to hot.
> 
> If you go extreme, and say put a 1.38-1.4 voltage and spread it by 130% I got mine stable that way. for 4700Mhz, but for 4800+ Ive had to rethinkink it, because it wouldn't post before I changed the FSB and the ultra high settings etc.
> 
> But I have an H80 cooler which has been perfect with my Coolermaster HAF Case My Max temp under Intel Burn test is 61C But its 100% Stable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My benchmarks are awesome.
> 
> As I said though, by actually putting it on "Ultra High instead of Extreme, it drops the voltages a bit under full load, helping keeps temps down, but I keep the range extreme, just in case it needs it. Under CPU-Z it will go from 1.464-1.488


um I hope for your sake you know that AMD max temp (max) is 62c~65c depending on the chip so 61c is not good no matter what your scores are!!!! I would give yourself a little head room like max temps at least
56c~58c! AMD does not climb as quick as Intel on temps but is still very shaky to push it to the limit like that

PS the rest of the OC is about perfect though, I also told you guys about a week ago that dropping the VDDA volts is the bios helps to auto sets it at 2.5 where as it seems that it is wrong as I am stable with lower temps
with it set at 2.4 so far! My phenom used to like it at 2.7~2.8 but the FX chip has proven the other way lol


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*
> 
> um I hope for your sake you know that AMD max temp (max) is 62c~65c depending on the chip so 61c is not good no matter what your scores are!!!! I would give yourself a little head room like max temps at least
> 56c~58c! AMD does not climb as quick as Intel on temps but is still very shaky to push it to the limit like that
> PS the rest of the OC is about perfect though, I also told you guys about a week ago that dropping the VDDA volts is the bios helps to auto sets it at 2.5 where as it seems that it is wrong as I am stable with lower temps
> with it set at 2.4 so far! My phenom used to like it at 2.7~2.8 but the FX chip has proven the other way lol


from what I have seen offical from AMD is FX-8XXX is 61* so yea thats pushing it. Luckly in my case the FX-6100 and 4100 are 71* so I've got a little room to play around still. IBT I only get mid 50's.
I've got 4.8Ghz so close. I can run cinebench 11.5, geekbench, and 3dmarl11 all at the same time with out crashing, but prime95 give's me warnings on a couple cores.

And Bradford1040 one of the things I'm working with is lowering that VDDA volts. think I've got it around 2.45.


----------



## seraphicsorcerer

Intel Burn test pushes it harder then Prime 95 does, so if its stable, and says its stable its fine.

Prime 95 barely heats this thing beyond 50


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seraphicsorcerer*
> 
> Intel Burn test pushes it harder then Prime 95 does, so if its stable, and says its stable its fine.
> Prime 95 barely heats this thing beyond 50


for me its exactly the opposite, IBT doesnt stress hard enough.prime95 will get 10* hotter than IBT easy.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*
> 
> um I hope for your sake you know that AMD max temp (max) is 62c~65c depending on the chip so 61c is not good no matter what your scores are!!!! I would give yourself a little head room like max temps at least
> 56c~58c! AMD does not climb as quick as Intel on temps but is still very shaky to push it to the limit like that
> PS the rest of the OC is about perfect though, I also told you guys about a week ago that dropping the VDDA volts is the bios helps to auto sets it at 2.5 where as it seems that it is wrong as I am stable with lower temps
> with it set at 2.4 so far! My phenom used to like it at 2.7~2.8 but the FX chip has proven the other way lol
> 
> 
> 
> from what I have seen offical from AMD is FX-8XXX is 61* so yea thats pushing it. Luckly in my case the FX-6100 and 4100 are 71* so I've got a little room to play around still. IBT I only get mid 50's.
> I've got 4.8Ghz so close. I can run cinebench 11.5, geekbench, and 3dmarl11 all at the same time with out crashing, but prime95 give's me warnings on a couple cores.
> 
> And Bradford1040 one of the things I'm working with is lowering that VDDA volts. think I've got it around 2.45.
Click to expand...

well thats the first I heard of that, but if you know it to be true then go for it







I just did not want you to fry your chip up in a month or two,
But I would double check that temp as the 6100 is justa 8150 with two cores or one mod cut off why would the TDP be different?


----------



## alancsalt

http://www.techspot.com/news/46688-windows-7-hotfix-improves-amd-bulldozer-performance.html

Just in case u guys hadn't seen this.......
Quote:


> Still trying to cope with the disappointment of AMD's latest CPU architecture? A new hotfix from Microsoft might dull the pain. The software giant admits that its operating systems are hindering Bulldozer's performance and has released an update for Windows 7 and Server 2008 R2 users that should improve the situation. Current versions of Windows 7 and Server 2008 R2 are inefficient at handling Simultaneous Multithreading (SMT). Naturally, this update introduces the necessary optimizations.
> 
> The support page repeatedly notes that the hotfix will allow Bulldozer chips to unleash their full potential, but there's no indication on how much more performance you'll see. We wouldn't get too excited about it though. Windows 8 is more efficient at handling SMT scheduling and based on reports we've seen, Bulldozer performs about 10% quicker in the Windows 8 Developer Preview. Although we haven't run any tests yet (and there's probably no reason to), users are reporting a situational 1% to 10% boost.


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*
> 
> well thats the first I heard of that, but if you know it to be true then go for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just did not want you to fry your chip up in a month or two,
> But I would double check that temp as the 6100 is justa 8150 with two cores or one mod cut off why would the TDP be different?


I found the amd spec sheet a wile back but having a hard time finding it again, but there is a site that has all cpu spec's listed

http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/Bulldozer/AMD-FX-Series%20FX-6100.html
http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/Bulldozer/AMD-FX-Series%20FX-8120.html

I did remember incorrectly thought. 6100/4100 are 70*. I'm not sure why they have a higher max temp than the 8 series.


----------



## Dave001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict*
> 
> Tried to install new BIOS but it says it is not EFI BIOS?? Help.


Sounds like your USB stick is formated in NTFS, try Fat32.


----------



## seraphicsorcerer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> I found the amd spec sheet a wile back but having a hard time finding it again, but there is a site that has all cpu spec's listed
> http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/Bulldozer/AMD-FX-Series%20FX-6100.html
> http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/Bulldozer/AMD-FX-Series%20FX-8120.html
> I did remember incorrectly thought. 6100/4100 are 70*. I'm not sure why they have a higher max temp than the 8 series.


because the TDP is lower giving you more room to get up to 125W and thus giving you more tempature room. Watts create heat.


----------



## seraphicsorcerer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> http://www.techspot.com/news/46688-windows-7-hotfix-improves-amd-bulldozer-performance.html
> Just in case u guys hadn't seen this.......
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Still trying to cope with the disappointment of AMD's latest CPU architecture? A new hotfix from Microsoft might dull the pain. The software giant admits that its operating systems are hindering Bulldozer's performance and has released an update for Windows 7 and Server 2008 R2 users that should improve the situation. Current versions of Windows 7 and Server 2008 R2 are inefficient at handling Simultaneous Multithreading (SMT). Naturally, this update introduces the necessary optimizations.
> The support page repeatedly notes that the hotfix will allow Bulldozer chips to unleash their full potential, but there's no indication on how much more performance you'll see. We wouldn't get too excited about it though. Windows 8 is more efficient at handling SMT scheduling and based on reports we've seen, Bulldozer performs about 10% quicker in the Windows 8 Developer Preview. Although we haven't run any tests yet (and there's probably no reason to), users are reporting a situational 1% to 10% boost.
Click to expand...

They took the hotfix down because apprently it slowed down performance for some, my guess is the 4100 users =p Because it then calles it a 2 core multithreaded proc and mine a 4 core 8 threaded proc. which is dumb, i guess you need an independent fpu these days to be called a fpu.


----------



## sequoia464

Anyone using 0901 bios yet? Any noticeable changes if so??


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sequoia464*
> 
> Anyone using 0901 bios yet? Any noticeable changes if so??


I installed it an all bench scores went down so I went back to previous UEFI


----------



## seraphicsorcerer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> I installed it an all bench scores went down so I went back to previous UEFI


It's mainly for fixing those who had the issue with shogfun 2 and portal 2, certain steam games had issues for whatever reason.


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sequoia464*
> 
> Anyone using 0901 bios yet? Any noticeable changes if so??


I found it flaky and the memory was slower I flashed back to 0813.


----------



## firestorm1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sequoia464*
> 
> Anyone using 0901 bios yet? Any noticeable changes if so??


i havent noticed any performance increase or decrease.


----------



## theamdman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sequoia464*
> 
> Anyone using 0901 bios yet? Any noticeable changes if so??


in the replys to your post that if you have a AM3+ cpus on the new bios that the scores go down, with am3 cpu's it stays the same.


----------



## blampars

I'm baffled.

Finally took the time to get a "stable" (4+ hours of gaming, no prime95) 4.0ghz with a 2600 NB, bumped up the 6970 to 940/1425 from stock clocks of 880/1375. Got Total War Shogun 2 yesterday and since it has a nice benchmark feature I've been using that to look at performance boosts.

With everything at stock I had average fps of 57
With everything OC'd I had average fps of 54

uh what?

I just flashed BIOS to 901 Friday night, I'm considering flashing back to previous to see what happens. Thoughts, ideas/pointers anyone?


----------



## Leo_Da_vinci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blampars*
> 
> I'm baffled.
> 
> Finally took the time to get a "stable" (4+ hours of gaming, no prime95) 4.0ghz with a 2600 NB, bumped up the 6970 to 940/1425 from stock clocks of 880/1375. Got Total War Shogun 2 yesterday and since it has a nice benchmark feature I've been using that to look at performance boosts.
> 
> With everything at stock I had average fps of 57
> With everything OC'd I had average fps of 54
> 
> uh what?
> 
> I just flashed BIOS to 901 Friday night, I'm considering flashing back to previous to see what happens. Thoughts, ideas/pointers anyone?


If you read up a bit ^^^^ there info say that 901 bios hurt perfromance


----------



## firestorm1

i would like to retract my statement. i ran atto again after reading a couple people were having performance issues and my read/write speeds have gone down almost 120mb/s. can a bios update cause that? i have the current amd raid/sata drivers installed,


----------



## DevilDriver

^^^^ yes BIOS can cause that. its exactly like I told my brother the other night. after having BD from its infancy I now fully understand why benchers hunt for the best bios for THERE system.


----------



## seraphicsorcerer

Your gpu will throttle itself as well as your processor if the temps get to hot, especially the VRM caps.


----------



## kegga_62

I'm thinking about buying a AMD Phenom X6 1100T. Will this mobo support it ? and do I have to do anything to get it up and running ?


----------



## firestorm1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kegga_62*
> 
> I'm thinking about buying a AMD Phenom X6 1100T. Will this mobo support it ? and do I have to do anything to get it up and running ?


nope. just insert cpu and enjoy.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kegga_62*
> 
> I'm thinking about buying a AMD Phenom X6 1100T. Will this mobo support it ? and do I have to do anything to get it up and running ?


yes this MB will support the 1100T and there should be no problems just dropping it in and booting it up.

-dimwit-


----------



## kegga_62

Thanks. It will be a couple weeks before I buy it.


----------



## firestorm1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> ^^^^ yes BIOS can cause that. its exactly like I told my brother the other night. after having BD from its infancy I now fully understand why benchers hunt for the best bios for THERE system.


i figured as much. i switched back to the 0705 bios. it seems to be the best for me since i dont have a bulldozer cpu. i just wish amd would work more on their raid support.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> i figured as much. i switched back to the 0705 bios. it seems to be the best for me since i dont have a bulldozer cpu. i just wish amd would work more on their raid support.


firestorm1, did bios 0705 seem more stable to you than 0901?
I flashed from 0705 to 0901 and it just doesnt seem right!?!?!
I was thinking of going back to 0705.

-dimwit-


----------



## Leo_Da_vinci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> firestorm1, did bios 0705 seem more stable to you than 0901?
> I flashed from 0705 to 0901 and it just doesnt seem right!?!?!
> I was thinking of going back to 0705.
> -dimwit-


I sware i was just think the same thing, but I flashed to 0813 it does seem right plus I had to mess around with my overclock to get it stable.

I was only running 1.536 on the 0705 and now i need 1.546 and now i have to put the MOBO on extreme settings for CPU power phase control.

I know 152 or 151 there a post saying that 901 bios hurts performance.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leo_Da_vinci*
> 
> I sware i was just think the same thing, but I flashed to 0813 it does seem right plus I had to mess around with my overclock to get it stable.
> I was only running 1.536 on the 0705 and now i need 1.546 and now i have to put the MOBO on extreme settings for CPU power phase control.
> I know 152 or 151 there a post saying that 901 bios hurts performance.


it is harder to get my oc stable, a lot more fine tuning, to get what i was getting easy with 0705, than with 0901.
i am going back to 0705, i think anything past that is more for BD than phenoms.
i have been hearing about performance drops with 0901 also, but i had to try it for myself-lol

-dimwit-


----------



## msgclb

I had to reinstall my OS (Win7) on the system below and now I can't get the GPU usage % above 50% while folding.

I've tried (2) EVGA GTX 550 TI and (1) EVGA GTS 450 cards with the same results.
I've tried the 267.59 and some other drivers.

Before reinstalling my OS my GPU usage was 99%.

Does anyone have some ideas before I move on to the folding forum?.


----------



## cgpeanut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leo_Da_vinci*
> 
> I sware i was just think the same thing, but I flashed to 0813 it does seem right plus I had to mess around with my overclock to get it stable.
> I was only running 1.536 on the 0705 and now i need 1.546 and now i have to put the MOBO on extreme settings for CPU power phase control.
> I know 152 or 151 there a post saying that 901 bios hurts performance.


As for me 0901 worked perfectly with my FX4100, I flashed from 0813, Portal 2 does not crash anymore and plays magnificent! Also, windows7 64bit boots up in 7 secs with Kingston V2 SSD as opposed to 10 secs with the same drive on 0813.

I'm stable now @4.71GHZ with ONLY the multiplier at 23.5 before I hit the wall at 4.6GHZ with multiplier @22. I've also installed the MS Bulldozer Patch so I'm sure it helped.

If I can get it at 4.8GHZ stable I'll be happy, and get another Sappire HD-6950 as opposed to a FX-6950/70 as the next upgrade.


----------



## vartok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seraphicsorcerer*
> 
> Your gpu will throttle itself as well as your processor if the temps get to hot, especially the VRM caps.


That could be whats happenign when i try to OC my GTX 560TI... anythign above the factory OC (even after bumping up the voltage) actually reduces FPS and 3dmark scores are all over the place... know what temp the 560TIs start to do that? i was getting ~71c running furmark


----------



## Mistral

Microsoft withdrew the Bulldozer patch as it actually impacted performance with some FX CPU's.

Here is some more information.

A little over a month ago, we reported findings on the performance shortcomings of AMD's Bulldozer line of CPUs, identifying areas where Microsoft's Windows task scheduler was unable to fully utilise the architecture to achieve maximum performance, either harming or not fully exploiting the processors' capabilities, depending on how you wish to look at it.

The question remaining at the end of the article, had been whether Microsoft intended to release a patch for Windows 7 or wait until the release of Windows 8 to include full support for the unique design. Last week, Microsoft let slip prematurely a hotfix introducing changes to the Windows 7 and Server 2008 R2 task scheduler, allowing it to fully exploit the Bulldozer architecture, which has since been pulled.

The hotfix was incomplete, one of two intended fixes, leading to spurious performance figures under some scenarios, however initial suggestions claim a two to seven per cent increase in performance, nothing too major but figures that will no doubt receive a warm welcome from AMD and Bulldozer owners alike, who may wish to keep an eye on Microsoft's website for when the fix eventually becomes live again.

the patch was released last week - some sites actually snagged it before MS pulled it - and it showed a DROP in performance, so they needed to rewrite it:

some numbers;

http://i1-news.softpedia-static.com/images/news2/AMD-Bulldozer-Windows-7-Performance-Patch-Tested-Results-Disappoint-3.jpg [i1-news.softpedia-static.com]

http://www.sweclockers.com/artikel/14855-testresultat-amd-fx-8150-med-kb2592546-uppdaterad-schemalaggare-i-windows-7 [sweclockers.com]

http://ht4u.net/news/24857_patch_soll_bulldozer_unter_windows_7_beschleunigen_-_ergebnisse_enttaeuschen/ [ht4u.net]

hotfixed ID`d as

KB2592546

now taken down though


----------



## chosenv3

Hello,

I was hoping to purchase an AMD Phenom II X6 1100T AM3 Black Edition CPU for this mother board but everywhere is either sold out or selling for way above the standard price! I found them ranging from £140 all the way to £240 using google shopping!

Does anyone recommend a similar CPU which is around the £150 price mark? 6 core 3.2/3.3GHz would be best.

Many Thanks


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> Microsoft withdrew the Bulldozer patch as it actually impacted performance with some FX CPU's.


I picked up points and gaming is much better with the patch and I own 150 PC games including all the new and old greats not like super Mario bothers lol or big fish games stuff


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*
> 
> I picked up points and gaming is much better with the patch and I own 150 PC games including all the new and old greats not like super Mario bothers lol or big fish games stuff


Do you have a working download link for the patch I never got chance to try it personally?

From Microsoft

AMD and Microsoft are continually working to improve hardware and software for our shared customers. As part of our joint work to optimize the performance of "Bulldozer" architecture-based AMD processors we collaborating on a scheduler update to the Windows 7 code-base. The code associated with this KB is incomplete and should not be used.


----------



## firestorm1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> firestorm1, did bios 0705 seem more stable to you than 0901?
> I flashed from 0705 to 0901 and it just doesnt seem right!?!?!
> I was thinking of going back to 0705.
> -dimwit-


i ran though all the bios files that are out. i really didint have an issue with 0813 but with 0901, for some reason my read/write speeds on my raid array were lower than expected. i then flashed back to 0705 ran a couple benches and everything was where it should be. so for now, im sticking with 0705.


----------



## Mistral

If anyone is looking for ram I have just fitted a 16 gig kit of G.Skill RipjawsZ F3-14900CL9Q-16GBZL 1866mhz ram (Quad channel kit for Intel X79 systems) booted at 1600Mhz changed the settings in the BIOS to the supplied latencies and it works flawlessly, it is also reasonably priced. Also available in 1600Mhz, 2133mhz and 2400Mhz kits.


----------



## metarox

That's the kit I have but I have no bulldozer CPU yet, waiting to see what happens and if a later revision fixes some issues or wait for the Piledriver update in 2012 since it will be compatible with AM3+.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*
> 
> I picked up points and gaming is much better with the patch and I own 150 PC games including all the new and old greats not like super Mario bothers lol or big fish games stuff
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a working download link for the patch I never got chance to try it personally?
> 
> From Microsoft
> 
> AMD and Microsoft are continually working to improve hardware and software for our shared customers. As part of our joint work to optimize the performance of "Bulldozer" architecture-based AMD processors we collaborating on a scheduler update to the Windows 7 code-base. The code associated with this KB is incomplete and should not be used.
Click to expand...

I am only putting this up for about 20min or if you get it post and I will take it down you are going to have to give me a PM


----------



## firestorm1

is anyone running SSD's in raid 0 with this board? if so, what dirvers/bios are you using? i believe i have a controller bottleneck. im using the latest raid drivers with the 0705 bios. ive tested the other BIOSes that are available, but this one seems better. not by much though.


----------



## Mistral

PM'd you m8 I've downloaded it thanks.


----------



## iced00d

AI Suite II Question - Over the last couple of days I've noticed that under Thermal Radar that the USB3.0-2 is registering an average of 47'c under gaming load. Is this normal ? Thanks in advance..


----------



## ht_addict

Why is no matter what speed I set the speed of the CPU in the BIOS it reads on the boot up page faster than set in the BIOS?


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict*
> 
> Why is no matter what speed I set the speed of the CPU in the BIOS it reads on the boot up page faster than set in the BIOS?


That is kinda (kinda) normal mine does it to, and even more so when I turn up the LLC to 140%

I would not be to concerned. What speed or should say mhz are you running at?


----------



## Mistral

Best Wishes for Christmas and New Year.


----------



## lilkuz2005

for some reason im not verified ? i think i did it right, but im not sure can anyone check that out for me ? thanks in advance


----------



## Speedy-j

Hi i'm new on this forum ,i like this topic.
Has anyone good expirience with the new bios ?,i'm using now 813 so far so good.


----------



## ShooterFX

Well i upgraded to the newest BIOS and have no issues. One thing all my Steam games work flawlessly .


----------



## firestorm1

has anyone managed to oc 1333mhz memory to 1600mhz? everytime i try and reboot, i get an error and have to reset the cmos just to get back into bios.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> has anyone managed to oc 1333mhz memory to 1600mhz? everytime i try and reboot, i get an error and have to reset the cmos just to get back into bios.


what volts are you trying?
i have to use 1.62 to get my 2x4gig ddr3 1600 to run-(stock volts is 1.5)
instead of resetting cmos, i just hit the mem ok button and then it boots.
sorry, this didnt answer your question.

-dimwit-


----------



## firestorm1

crap, i forgot about the mem ok button.

i bumped the volts to 1.55v. but ill try to go higher. do you by chance know what the max safe voltage is for these gskill ram? i tried looking on their site, but it just shows the stock voltage.


----------



## DevilDriver

dimwit13 what corsair ram you have, and what are your settings for it?
I have the blue vengeance 1600 2x4g. right now I'm running it around 13xx at stock 1.5 volts.
Next divider up takes it to 17xx and I'm not sure how safe it is to put more than the 1.5v through ddr3.


----------



## lilkuz2005

when i first built my new rig i have Bradford help me with my memory OC and we actually had to set the voltage lower than the factory suggested voltage, and i too am running 16gb g.skill ddr3 1600. the stock voltage was 1.5v we had to set mine to 1.47v . now in memtest86+ i get no errors, so maybe try lowering the voltages and using memtest86 to make sure your memory is running right. i hope this helps


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> crap, i forgot about the mem ok button.
> i bumped the volts to 1.55v. but ill try to go higher. do you by chance know what the max safe voltage is for these gskill ram? i tried looking on their site, but it just shows the stock voltage.


I think G.Skill ram can go as high as 1.7v but I'm not 100% sure, the G.Skill RipjawsX in my other 3 systems all run at 1.65v, AMD systems usually need more ram voltage for stability. G.Skill tech support is very good you could email them they usually respond very quickly.


----------



## firestorm1

thanks for the reply. i emailed gskill yesterday but havent heard anything back yet.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> dimwit13 what corsair ram you have, and what are your settings for it?
> I have the blue vengeance 1600 2x4g. right now I'm running it around 13xx at stock 1.5 volts.
> Next divider up takes it to 17xx and I'm not sure how safe it is to put more than the 1.5v through ddr3.


sorry for the slow reply.
i had the "Black" model, sold them for some Gskill.
but i was running them at 1600 1.60v (stock 1600/1.5v)
AMD seems to need more volts to run the ram at the rated speeds, well at least with me-but i really havent sat down and put a lot of time into it.
as for max volts, you could check the AMD Memory section and see if you could get more info there.
AMD Memory

-dimwit-


----------



## Belander87

I have the Black Corsair Vengeance ram running at 1600Mhz at stock voltage 1.5v. Just had to go into the advanced mode and change it to DOCP then select the ram speed to 1600Mhz. save, reboot bingo worked great. then proceeded to OC to 4.0Ghz slick and easy. I can get to 4.1Ghz but can't seem to go higher. i'm sure there is a way just content at the moment with 4.1... at least until I get my system under water.


----------



## firestorm1

i think im just going to get another 8gb set of 1866mhz ram. considering they are so cheap right now and just keep what currently have as a backup set.


----------



## Boomstick68

My Corsair Vengeance ram will not OC on this mobo. It is really picky about the settings and I cannot figure them out. I'm using a 1600mhz kit and it should be able to run at 1866 speed but beats the hell out of me how to do it.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boomstick68*
> 
> My Corsair Vengeance ram will not OC on this mobo. It is really picky about the settings and I cannot figure them out. I'm using a 1600mhz kit and it should be able to run at 1866 speed but beats the hell out of me how to do it.


my vengeance 1600 wont go much beyond 1666 either so it is probably just the ram:thinking:


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## Belander87

1705Mhz is the highest I have pushed my vengeance ram but wouldn't recommend it. not stable by any means, enough to boot then random crashes.


----------



## ShooterFX

Running my old OCZ @ 2000 mhz (4 x 2 gig dimms) with 1.65 Volts and timing auto ( 8-11-9-27-40) / CPU @ 4766 mhz ( 250.8 Bus and 19 Multi @ 1.42V )

The Memory are: OCZ DDR3 PC3-16000 / 2000MHz / 4GB Kits / Platinum Edition


----------



## Speedy-j

I have no problems at all,run my 4x2GB geil black dragon [email protected] 8-9-9-24 with only 1.55v
CPU at 4700MHz 19.5x241. 1.45Vcore
Its one hour LinX stable with this settings so i am satisfied with the result.


----------



## Boomstick68

My modest gaming build. I guess I can be officially added to the list.


----------



## firestorm1

well with the way ram prices are, i ordered another 8gb from newegg this morning for my other computer. $42.99 with free shipping. not gonna complain there.


----------



## Boomstick68

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> well with the way ram prices are, i ordered another 8gb from newegg this morning for my other computer. $42.99 with free shipping. not gonna complain there.


Nope. I bought a 16gb kit to color match my Sabertooth now my black 8gb kit is sitting on the shelf. Hmmm, step one in an Intel 2500k build perhaps. With another Sabertooth mobo of course. I gave up trying to OC this Vengeance ram. It just doesn't OC.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boomstick68*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> well with the way ram prices are, i ordered another 8gb from newegg this morning for my other computer. $42.99 with free shipping. not gonna complain there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nope. I bought a 16gb kit to color match my Sabertooth now my black 8gb kit is sitting on the shelf. Hmmm, step one in an Intel 2500k build perhaps. With another Sabertooth mobo of course. I gave up trying to OC this Vengeance ram. It just doesn't OC.
Click to expand...

Just FYI to ALL 705 Bios will not OC ram very well, in fact I was not able to get my 2000mhz ram over 1333mhz when I had that bios installed


----------



## firestorm1

i went bact to 0813


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> i went bact to 0813


BACK???? lol 402 was stock and the number go up lol, you remind me of people in Florida saying they are going down to New York lol

JOKING AROUND BTW


----------



## Metro.Is.King

Hi. I have an Corsair Force 3 SSD, and would like it to be my primary disk. It contains all my windows files and is the drive i use now.
My 1tb WD is my current primary hard drive and i cant find a way for my SSD to be my primary hard drive.

When i unplug the WD HDD and go into the BIOS to boot from the SSD, it says "insert boot...." no matter how many times i press enter, however when i plug in the 1tb HDD, the computer boots up but needs to choose betwen which windows to start on every boot up.

Please help!!

On a totally unrelated matter, im about to upgrade my processor from Phenom 2 955 BE at 3.9Ghz to FX6100 and would like to know if i should expect improvements and how well the Bulldozer will overclock


----------



## Mistral

You need to change the boot priority in the BIOS it's still looking for the other drive.


----------



## firestorm1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*
> 
> BACK???? lol 402 was stock and the number go up lol, you remind me of people in Florida saying they are going down to New York lol
> JOKING AROUND BTW


LOL. force of habbit man.









ninja edit:

one more thng. my new set of ram is the gskill sniper series and its rated @ 1600mhz. once i install it, do i need to switch the ai overclock tuner to D.O.C.P? then make sure everything is running at its correct clocks/timings/volts?


----------



## Metro.Is.King

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> You need to change the boot priority in the BIOS it's still looking for the other drive.


Yeah but its the only boot option when i remove my HDD, and it still says "insert proper boot...." error after i click on the SSD


----------



## Boomstick68

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metro.Is.King*
> 
> Hi. I have an Corsair Force 3 SSD, and would like it to be my primary disk. It contains all my windows files and is the drive i use now.
> My 1tb WD is my current primary hard drive and i cant find a way for my SSD to be my primary hard drive.
> When i unplug the WD HDD and go into the BIOS to boot from the SSD, it says "insert boot...." no matter how many times i press enter, however when i plug in the 1tb HDD, the computer boots up but needs to choose betwen which windows to start on every boot up.
> Please help!!
> On a totally unrelated matter, im about to upgrade my processor from Phenom 2 955 BE at 3.9Ghz to FX6100 and would like to know if i should expect improvements and how well the Bulldozer will overclock


When you install your operating system on your SSD, your other drive should NOT be installed yet, it will want that setup every time it boots if you do. I ran into this with two mech. hdd's as well. I unhooked one of them and it wouldn't boot. I had to reinstall Win 7 with only the primary drive installed and added the other one after. This fixed my issue. The bios settings were correct for boot priority but it wanted the other drive installed. At least my experience anyway. Hope you sort it out.


----------



## DevilDriver

I got my blue Vengeance to 1746 last night. loosened timings to 10-10-10-24 with 1.55 volts.
did 3 hours of linpack in occt with out any issues.


----------



## ZeroMe

Hello Everyone, I just got my Asus Sabertooth 990fx in and installed it this afternoon but have been running into a strange problem that I'm hoping you guys have some sort of insight. I have paired this motherboard with
AMD 960T Black Edition
2x4 corsair vengeance 1.5
5830 ATI HD PCi-E
1Tb Hitachi HD
OCZ GameXstream 700 watt
1 Creative Labs ExtremeMusic

I am having a boot error somewhere as i have narrowed it down to the Graphics card slot. When i plug in the ATI 5830 dual power cables (Requires two pci-e power cables) and hit the power button i just get a flicker from all the fans but nothing turns on. If i unhook the power from the graphics card but leave it plugged into the PCI-e socket it boots but no video and it seems as though it is actually getting into the bios but can't be sure but system stays on until i manually turn it off. I have tried different graphics cards and get mixed results such as no boot with an 7900gt or the same flicker but nothing else. I have tried loosening the board thinking it might be shorting out somewhere but no joy. I installed an Ultra 120 cpu cooler but i don't think i damaged the cpu screwing in the spring bolts. Any ideas would sure help me out. Thanks


----------



## Mistral

I take it you have the EATX 12v 8 pin power plug in. Can you try another PSU it sounds like you don't have enough amps on the 12v rail I think the 5830 requires 35/40amps on the 12v line. Also the board might not be getting the correct power good signal from the PSU in which case the CPU controller chip will constantly reset and prevent the system from booting it's a safeguard to prevent damage from wrong voltage.


----------



## dimwit13

hey guys, i need a little help/info/recomendations.
i have a 960T unlocked to 6 cores running at 3.4-stable. i want to push it more, but i want to get a good nb oc first.
everything else is pretty much stock. (bios ver. 0705, i had 0813, but didnt seen as stable)
my problem is i cant oc my NB.
i tried 2400 with 1.275 cpu-nb volts and she dont post.
should i try to oc the nb before the cpu?
could the unlocked cores causing the problem? i didnt try with 4 cores.
i have 4 days off and i am going to get this system the fastest/stable as possible.

-dimwit-


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> hey guys, i need a little help/info/recomendations.
> i have a 960T unlocked to 6 cores running at 3.4-stable. i want to push it more, but i want to get a good nb oc first.
> everything else is pretty much stock. (bios ver. 0705, i had 0813, but didnt seen as stable)
> my problem is i cant oc my NB.
> i tried 2400 with 1.275 cpu-nb volts and she dont post.
> should i try to oc the nb before the cpu?
> could the unlocked cores causing the problem? i didnt try with 4 cores.
> i have 4 days off and i am going to get this system the fastest/stable as possible.
> 
> -dimwit-


ether go back to 402 bios or 813/910 the 705 is poo! at least for OC'ing

Plus you are able to push the cpu/nb volts to 1.45 safely just watch temps always at first. 1.275 would be nice at higher cpu/nb speeds but some chips need more volts just FYI

I will post more later if you need help, I have to do some work on networking stuff around here so won't be able to jump right back here quick, but will check in on your posts asap
if you are still having a problem!

BUT FIRST get rid of the 705 bios, it really only worked well for a few people, but most agree it sucked!


----------



## Big Shabazz

Just got and installed mine yesterday. Add me plz


----------



## ZeroMe

Just changed the Power supply for my old but faithful OCZ 520SLI that has adjustable 12v rails. did not need to increase 12v line but it booted finally and all is well. I don't know what is wrong with my OCZ 700 GameXstream since this was the power supply used with my overclocked opty165 on my DFI Lanparty that was running just yesterday. weird but at least i can boot into the bios and all seems well. Now to see if the extra cores unlock any advice on that??







Pics to follow as i also painted the case black just for this board


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*
> 
> ether go back to 402 bios or 813/910 the 705 is poo! at least for OC'ing
> Plus you are able to push the cpu/nb volts to 1.45 safely just watch temps always at first. 1.275 would be nice at higher cpu/nb speeds but some chips need more volts just FYI
> I will post more later if you need help, I have to do some work on networking stuff around here so won't be able to jump right back here quick, but will check in on your posts asap
> if you are still having a problem!
> BUT FIRST get rid of the 705 bios, it really only worked well for a few people, but most agree it sucked!


thanks for the info.
so here is what i did-
set defaults in bios-then flashed to 0813-booted.
went into bios and turned off/ on the normal stuff-booted.
unlocked cores, stock nb-booted and stable.
tried 2400 nb, cpu-nb 1.3 volts-no post.
upped the cpu and ram volts-no post.
reset nb to auto, rest volts to default, 6 cores-booted.
i tried the same processes witout the 2 unlocked cores-same thing.

hold my beer, im gonna try something!!!
i'll be back-lol

-dimwit-


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Shabazz*
> 
> 
> 
> Just got and installed mine yesterday. Add me plz


I love the look of those MSI cards, I am water cooled with the Koolance Full Blocks so I don't have such a shabby looking system ether but if I was to air cool one that how I would want it to look! NICE!!!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*
> 
> ether go back to 402 bios or 813/910 the 705 is poo! at least for OC'ing
> Plus you are able to push the cpu/nb volts to 1.45 safely just watch temps always at first. 1.275 would be nice at higher cpu/nb speeds but some chips need more volts just FYI
> I will post more later if you need help, I have to do some work on networking stuff around here so won't be able to jump right back here quick, but will check in on your posts asap
> if you are still having a problem!
> BUT FIRST get rid of the 705 bios, it really only worked well for a few people, but most agree it sucked!
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for the info.
> so here is what i did-
> set defaults in bios-then flashed to 0813-booted.
> went into bios and turned off/ on the normal stuff-booted.
> unlocked cores, stock nb-booted and stable.
> tried 2400 nb, cpu-nb 1.3 volts-no post.
> upped the cpu and ram volts-no post.
> reset nb to auto, rest volts to default, 6 cores-booted.
> i tried the same processes witout the 2 unlocked cores-same thing.
> 
> hold my beer, im gonna try something!!!
> i'll be back-lol
> 
> -dimwit-
Click to expand...

I can't be trusted with a beer at this point!!! I have been in hell (installing Ubuntu, Linux Mint, ETC...) and if you have it installed yourself on THIS BOARD you know that it is a pain in the rear!!!

I have been trying for days to get it working even 75% right with clumps of hair and lots of yelling and even a few threats to it and it still won't work right!

Just tried what was expecting to be the easiest Linux to install as it has every Driver/Kernel in it PcLinuxOS and will tell you the only thing it did better so far was crash oh and the network worked right from the CD
without any patches! So I got to surf the forum for 2 min before it crashed/locked up


----------



## saybot

Hello, Ive got problem with me mainboard,

Yesterday i buy brand new Sabertooth 990fx with Amd FX-4100 processor with CORSAIR DDR3 8GB (2x4GB) 1866MHz CL9 Dual and Gigabyte Radeon HD 6850 OC 1GB DDR5 PCI-E.

When i connect all devices and try to start computer nothing appear on display. Fan on CPU start to run and nothing else.
Fan on graphiccard not running and CPU_LED is lighting in red colour.
Why computer isnt started? Maybe some1 can help


----------



## Big Shabazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*
> 
> I love the look of those MSI cards, I am water cooled with the Koolance Full Blocks so I don't have such a shabby looking system ether but if I was to air cool one that how I would want it to look! NICE!!!!!


I took this pic about 3/4 of the way into my rebuild. I eventually mounted a Corsair H60 onto the CPU.

Edit: #1600! Woot.


----------



## pony-tail

I just got home with mine !
I will see how I go with it .


----------



## Speedy-j

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saybot*
> 
> Hello, Ive got problem with me mainboard,
> Yesterday i buy brand new Sabertooth 990fx with Amd FX-4100 processor with CORSAIR DDR3 8GB (2x4GB) 1866MHz CL9 Dual and Gigabyte Radeon HD 6850 OC 1GB DDR5 PCI-E.
> When i connect all devices and try to start computer nothing appear on display. Fan on CPU start to run and nothing else.
> Fan on graphiccard not running and CPU_LED is lighting in red colour.
> Why computer isnt started? Maybe some1 can help


You can try the MEMOK button near the memory slots.
If that don't work you can update the bios to 0813.


----------



## Mistral

I can't be trusted with a beer at this point!!! I have been in hell (installing Ubuntu, Linux Mint, ETC...) and if you have it installed yourself on THIS BOARD you know that it is a pain in the rear!!!

I have been trying for days to get it working even 75% right with clumps of hair and lots of yelling and even a few threats to it and it still won't work right!

I can't believe you row with your computer Brad lol, I've got a wife for that pointless pursuit ( I never win anyhow ) I get along nice and peaceful with my systems.


----------



## caffeinescandal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Shabazz*
> 
> 
> Just got and installed mine yesterday. Add me plz


LOL Ripjaws and MSI graphics cards. Looks just like my system. xD


----------



## 12Cores

Ordered this board to give myself more options when I decide to upgrade my GPU's. I cannot push my CPU beyond 4ghz with my current board, has anyone been able to get their 1055t stable at 4.1-4.2ghz with this board? And yes I know it probably will not make much of difference in my overall performance coming from 4ghz.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## saybot

Quote:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by saybot
> 
> Hello, Ive got problem with me mainboard,
> Yesterday i buy brand new Sabertooth 990fx with Amd FX-4100 processor with CORSAIR DDR3 8GB (2x4GB) 1866MHz CL9 Dual and Gigabyte Radeon HD 6850 OC 1GB DDR5 PCI-E.
> When i connect all devices and try to start computer nothing appear on display. Fan on CPU start to run and nothing else.
> Fan on graphiccard not running and CPU_LED is lighting in red colour.
> Why computer isnt started? Maybe some1 can help
> 
> You can try the MEMOK button near the memory slots.
> If that don't work you can update the bios to 0813.


Ty for answer but how can i update bios if my FX-4100 doesnt work? Only possibility is when i borrow from some1 another older CPU?
MEMOK LEd is not lighting, but when i push ip its flashing


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saybot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by saybot
> 
> Hello, Ive got problem with me mainboard,
> Yesterday i buy brand new Sabertooth 990fx with Amd FX-4100 processor with CORSAIR DDR3 8GB (2x4GB) 1866MHz CL9 Dual and Gigabyte Radeon HD 6850 OC 1GB DDR5 PCI-E.
> When i connect all devices and try to start computer nothing appear on display. Fan on CPU start to run and nothing else.
> Fan on graphiccard not running and CPU_LED is lighting in red colour.
> Why computer isnt started? Maybe some1 can help
> 
> You can try the MEMOK button near the memory slots.
> If that don't work you can update the bios to 0813.
> 
> 
> 
> Ty for answer but how can i update bios if my FX-4100 doesnt work? Only possibility is when i borrow from some1 another older CPU?
> MEMOK LEd is not lighting, but when i push ip its flashing
Click to expand...

Take out your CPU, make sure you have no bent pins, then reseat it, after that remove the power from your system and remove the system battery, press the power button a few times to completley drain all remaining power, then re insert the system battery and power cable and give it a go, also verify all other components are also seated properly,


----------



## pony-tail

I scrounged up enough bits , out of my used parts collection to get mine running last night .
It now has a Phen.II 965 - 4gig Kingston value ram 1333 - old 750 gig WD hard disk and a XFX GTX275 graphics .
I just could not leave it sit till next payday (2 weeks) had to check it out , especially the UEFI firmware . I have not had a board with UEFI before .
Currently running Vista ultimate 64 ( that was the windoze licence on the case )


----------



## BoltNub

Hey guys, im having trouble with my new Sabertooth. I thought theres bound to be someone here that can help me, heres the link to my original post.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1192117/broken-bios-on-asus-sabertooth-990fx#post_16078891


----------



## Big Shabazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caffeinescandal*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Big Shabazz*
> 
> 
> Just got and installed mine yesterday. Add me plz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOL Ripjaws and MSI graphics cards. Looks just like my system. xD
Click to expand...

Haha, great minds think alike...


----------



## LoneWolf3574

I don't know how many of you guys actually use a fan controller with your systems, but I've got a heads up for you. If you've got a Sunbeam 30W Rheosmart 6 Channel Smart Fan Controller (PL-RS-6), like I do in mine, then you should know that when the buttons are depressed to allow your motherboard to control the fans via PWM, the indicated tach goes all over from 0 to 650k+ rpm and you get a 0rpm warning. No worries though, even though it has "failed" to let your motherboard take control of the fans, they spin up to their respective 12VDC values. I know I sound kinda dorky/stupid putting this out there, but hey, I gotta let my buds know why I've been going bald this last month.


----------



## ZeroMe

Hay guys had a question for any one that is running an 960T Black Edition CPU on this motherboard. It shows in the bios if Core Voltage is set to default (Auto) then it defaults to 1.428 v and while running windows and checking CPU-Z it reflects the same voltage, but something weird happens when you run Prime95 or OCCT. When all the cores are stressed out at 100% then the CPU voltage drops to 1.24 - 1.3 Volts and goes back to 1.428 when stress test stop. also when i enable C&Q the core drops to 4x but the volts only drop to 1.24 - 1.28 Volts. I read in some threads that this is normal because ASUS Sabertooth cannot identify the chip correctly. Any thoughts>> Oh and HAPPY NEW YEAR


----------



## dimwit13

a couple questions on ram settings-how should i have them set?
this is what they are now.

bank interleaving-auto
channel interleaving-auto
ecc mode-disabled
power down enabled-disabled
memory hole remapping-enabled
dct unganged mode-enabled

is this correct?
i am still having problems running my nb above auto-URGH!!!!

-dimwit-


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoltNub*
> 
> Hey guys, im having trouble with my new Sabertooth. I thought theres bound to be someone here that can help me, heres the link to my original post.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1192117/broken-bios-on-asus-sabertooth-990fx#post_16078891


Use a USB flash drive formatted fat 32 , download the BIOS revision you want to use rename it to SABER990.ROM and put it on the flash drive plug it in and start the computer.


----------



## DrakkDaze

Running my Sabertooth for a couple weeks now, its awesome. Submitted my info to become a member here and sent, but here is a pic or two!



I call her "The Interceptor" due to the blue and red main color theme. So its all Policed out. I am pretty proud of this beast, and very happy with my Sabertooth!

EDIT: I resent my "get added to the list" form because I noticed it wasn't listing my name the same as it is on OCN. Sorry for the confusion!


----------



## sweffymo

I just realized that I haven't posted a verification post, so here it is:



http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2176719


----------



## Boomstick68

Ok guys, I finally broke down and ordered my SSD's for my system. I'm going with two Crucial M4 64 gb drives that I want to install in raid. I'm looking for help on the best configuration on the mobo and what settings need to done in the bios. This will be my boot+apps along with a Seagate 500gb hdd. If you have this kind of setup, please help me out. I've never configured any hdds in raid.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> Use a USB flash drive formatted fat 32 , download the BIOS revision you want to use rename it to SABER990.ROM and put it on the flash drive plug it in and start the computer.


You dont even need to do that,just unzip the file on to your c: then find the file in the bios and flash from that.
Why people feel the need to flash from sticks is beyond me........


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saybot*
> 
> Hello, Ive got problem with me mainboard,
> Yesterday i buy brand new Sabertooth 990fx with Amd FX-4100 processor with CORSAIR DDR3 8GB (2x4GB) 1866MHz CL9 Dual and Gigabyte Radeon HD 6850 OC 1GB DDR5 PCI-E.
> When i connect all devices and try to start computer nothing appear on display. Fan on CPU start to run and nothing else.
> Fan on graphiccard not running and CPU_LED is lighting in red colour.
> Why computer isnt started? Maybe some1 can help


You need to flash your board to the latest bios to run FX chips,the stock bios doesnt support them.
You will need a Phenom II to do this however.....


----------



## ZeroMe

Finally got everything up and running normal. I am not overclocking yet as it has been a long week with Christmas and New Year and has left me with very little time. Here is my CPU-Z validation http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2179749 and picture of my naked setup







 Tried to unlock additional cores but came back with an black screen after reboot







so i guess i just have a Quad. Still it runs like a champ and now i am in the market for an SSD since that's whats keeping me down right now.


----------



## DrakkDaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You need to flash your board to the latest bios to run FX chips,the stock bios doesnt support them.
> You will need a Phenom II to do this however.....


I purchased the Sabertooth and the FX-4100 recently and they went together like peas and carrots. No bios update needed, though I did it later anyway. The FX processors work fine on this board right out of the box. I am not sure what the issue is with above, but just thought I would throw my 2 cents out there about this.


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrakkDaze*
> 
> I purchased the Sabertooth and the FX-4100 recently and they went together like peas and carrots. No bios update needed, though I did it later anyway. The FX processors work fine on this board right out of the box. I am not sure what the issue is with above, but just thought I would throw my 2 cents out there about this.


Mine also mated up out of the box, but I think some people are still getting older stock of Sabertooth's that don't have a newer UEFI on them.


----------



## sweffymo

Found a new stable OC:











http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2180049


----------



## racer86

hey guys looking at this board for my review bench has anyone had any luck running 2133 memory on this thing yet?


----------



## sweffymo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *racer86*
> 
> hey guys looking at this board for my review bench has anyone had any luck running 2133 memory on this thing yet?


If my 960T was able to push the frequency up that high I am sure that this motherboard could handle it. All I can get out of the CPU's memory controller is 2000mhz 9-10-9-28 (which is actually pretty good for an AMD CPU).


----------



## racer86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweffymo*
> 
> If my 960T was able to push the frequency up that high I am sure that this motherboard could handle it. All I can get out of the CPU's memory controller is 2000mhz 9-10-9-28 (which is actually pretty good for an AMD CPU).


thats pretty good for a thuban ill be putting in a fx 6100 or 8120 into it but some of the memory i review is 2133 and i would rather hate to do a review where i cant even get to rated specs. just looking to get some user specific reviews before i purchase


----------



## Mistral

I'm running 16gig of G.Skill F3-17000CL9Q-16GBXLD @ 9-11-9-28-1T 1.65v @2133Mhz, it needed a slight increase in the CPU/NB voltage for stability.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweffymo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *racer86*
> 
> hey guys looking at this board for my review bench has anyone had any luck running 2133 memory on this thing yet?
> 
> 
> 
> If my 960T was able to push the frequency up that high I am sure that this motherboard could handle it. All I can get out of the CPU's memory controller is 2000mhz 9-10-9-28 (which is actually pretty good for an AMD CPU).
Click to expand...

The memory controller on the 960T should be able to push 2800mhz to 3000mhz unless you meant 2000mhz ram settings? which is good for the Phenom II's and the 960T (forgot the chip name lol)

BTW how is that 960T benching? I have not seen any posts on it locked or unlocked! be nice to see what she was able to do


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrakkDaze*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You need to flash your board to the latest bios to run FX chips,the stock bios doesnt support them.
> You will need a Phenom II to do this however.....
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased the Sabertooth and the FX-4100 recently and they went together like peas and carrots. No bios update needed, though I did it later anyway. The FX processors work fine on this board right out of the box. I am not sure what the issue is with above, but just thought I would throw my 2 cents out there about this.
Click to expand...

What bios did your board come with?

and just a fyi some places are selling older boards still, like from manufacturing date around 6/11 to 9/11 which came with the 402 bios where as you need the 813 or 910 to run this board right with the FX chips!

The 705 bios sucks do do with the FX chip from all I have talked to, when I tried it it wouldn't let me OC the ram out of 1333mhz and I have 2000mhz ram


----------



## racer86

hmm i think i might go with this board for my bench some 990fx board comparisons have it running right on par with the $250 UD7 which is rediclous as well as pushing memory up to 2205mhz

Ive actually been thuroughly supprized by the reviews of this board


----------



## Motokiume

I spent a lot of time researching my next motherboard, and after reading this thread, I went for the Sabertooth.
So my first thing to say is - thanks to all you guys for the previous comments that helped me make my decision. It is a really nice board and I'm glad I came upon this thread.



My board came with BIOS 0705, it ran perfectly on my SSD drive, but suffered from BSOD's on my HDD. I flashed to BIOS 0901 but this made no difference. Eventually I found the cause of the BSOD's to be a faulty connection on my hard disk drive. This has now been rectified and I must say that this is an excellent board. Very stable and very capable.
In retrospect, I would never have flashed the BIOS from 0705 to 0901, but seeing as the SSD drive seems to be exactly as good and stable on either BIOS, I am going to leave it on 0901 for now.

Although I want a fast computer, my priority is stability and longevity. Therefore I don't bother with overclocking and I always buy ECC memory for my computers. I know I get a slight performance hit with ECC, but it runs DCS Warthog on high settings and that is all I need.

So once again, thanks for all the good help and advice on this thread.


----------



## sweffymo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sweffymo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *racer86*
> 
> hey guys looking at this board for my review bench has anyone had any luck running 2133 memory on this thing yet?
> 
> 
> 
> If my 960T was able to push the frequency up that high I am sure that this motherboard could handle it. All I can get out of the CPU's memory controller is 2000mhz 9-10-9-28 (which is actually pretty good for an AMD CPU).
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The memory controller on the 960T should be able to push 2800mhz to 3000mhz unless you meant 2000mhz ram settings? which is good for the Phenom II's and the 960T (forgot the chip name lol)
> 
> BTW how is that 960T benching? I have not seen any posts on it locked or unlocked! be nice to see what she was able to do
Click to expand...

I meant that the memory controller would only let my RAM hit 2000mhz.









My NB is at 2750 right now because it doesn't like my 4.1ghz CPU OC at 3000.

You could have checked my sig if you were confused.









I don't really bench, but I can say that it gets quite a lot more PPD in [email protected] than my C2 955 did... when both are running SMP Windows the 955 at 3.75 got 6-7k and the 960T gets 16-17k points per day.

In an Ubuntu VM while doing other things the 960T will get 20,000 PPD in SMP.


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweffymo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sweffymo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *racer86*
> 
> hey guys looking at this board for my review bench has anyone had any luck running 2133 memory on this thing yet?
> 
> 
> 
> If my 960T was able to push the frequency up that high I am sure that this motherboard could handle it. All I can get out of the CPU's memory controller is 2000mhz 9-10-9-28 (which is actually pretty good for an AMD CPU).
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The memory controller on the 960T should be able to push 2800mhz to 3000mhz unless you meant 2000mhz ram settings? which is good for the Phenom II's and the 960T (forgot the chip name lol)
> 
> BTW how is that 960T benching? I have not seen any posts on it locked or unlocked! be nice to see what she was able to do
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I meant that the memory controller would only let my RAM hit 2000mhz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My NB is at 2750 right now because it doesn't like my 4.1ghz CPU OC.
> 
> You could have checked my sig if you were confused.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't really bench, but I can say that it gets quite a lot more PPD in [email protected] than my C2 955 did... when both are running SMP Windows the 955 at 3.75 got 6-7k and the 960T gets 16-17k points per day.
> 
> In an Ubuntu VM while doing other things the 960T will get 20,000 PPD in SMP.
Click to expand...

didn't think of checking your sig lol ever since the new OCN most don't seem to put there spec's in there sorry lol


----------



## darkstar01

Why not buy a Asus Sabertooth 990FX AM3+ with a AMD FX-8150 (8core 3.6ghz OC to 4.2ghz with watercooling) then drop 16gb of DDR3 2200mhz into that puppy and use a GTX 500 Nvidia, I don't do SLI because the cards cost 500$ atm, but once they are cheaper, possibly go with dual SLI, Tripple-SLI or Quad is Overkill. I don't see a point.

HDD's are fine, just use a 16 or 32gb USB 3.0 high speed flashdrive as a Windows 7 ReadyBoost drive. Essentially windows caches frequently used things to the memory stick. When you setup the drive you will want to set the drive as dedicated ReadyBoost drive, and just leave it plugged in all the time.

You can get near-SSD speeds this way. I use a regular 7200rpm 1.5tb drive nothing fancy for storage. Maybe in the future I will upgrade to a 2-3TB SATA3 drive for the 6GB/sec speeds. the current speeds are fine.


----------



## darkstar01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkstar01*
> 
> Why not buy a Asus Sabertooth 990FX AM3+ with a AMD FX-8150 (8core 3.6ghz OC to 4.2ghz with watercooling) then drop 16gb of DDR3 2200mhz into that puppy and use a GTX 500 Nvidia, I don't do SLI because the cards cost 500$ atm, but once they are cheaper, possibly go with dual SLI, Tripple-SLI or Quad is Overkill. I don't see a point.
> HDD's are fine, just use a 16 or 32gb USB 3.0 high speed flashdrive as a Windows 7 ReadyBoost drive. Essentially windows caches frequently used things to the memory stick. When you setup the drive you will want to set the drive as dedicated ReadyBoost drive, and just leave it plugged in all the time.
> You can get near-SSD speeds this way. I use a regular 7200rpm 1.5tb drive nothing fancy for storage. Maybe in the future I will upgrade to a 2-3TB SATA3 drive for the 6GB/sec speeds. the current speeds are fine.


When I say GTX 500 I mean like a GTX 580 or GTX 590, I own a GTX 580 atm with a black backplate... pretty sweet.


----------



## Noob_with_Tools

does anyone have try sabertooth new bios + any fx processor and try to play saint row 3 ?? it is playable??.


----------



## Bradford1040

I don't think I posted this shot of my PC


----------



## racer86

well guys just pulled the trigger on my 990fx sabertooth the egg had them open box for 149 and that was just too good of a deal to pass up


----------



## Bradford1040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *racer86*
> 
> well guys just pulled the trigger on my 990fx sabertooth the egg had them open box for 149 and that was just too good of a deal to pass up


well its a great board, and 149 wow thats a great price for the board! I hope that the open box of the MOBO is about the same as all the open box stuff I got which was always like brand new


----------



## racer86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bradford1040*
> 
> well its a great board, and 149 wow thats a great price for the board! I hope that the open box of the MOBO is about the same as all the open box stuff I got which was always like brand new


ya ive had great dealings with newegg open box stuff im not expecting any issues ill be pairing it with a fx 8120 or fx 6100

nice rig btw what do yo have on the back of your 460s?


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *racer86*
> 
> ya ive had great dealings with newegg open box stuff im not expecting any issues ill be pairing it with a fx 8120 or fx 6100
> nice rig btw what do yo have on the back of your 460s?


Looks like foam.


----------



## firestorm1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *racer86*
> 
> ya ive had great dealings with newegg open box stuff im not expecting any issues ill be pairing it with a fx 8120 or fx 6100
> nice rig btw what do yo have on the back of your 460s?


i forgot what its called, but its to protect the cards in caseof leakage. its some type of non absorbant foam, i think. ive used that stuff back in the day when i had my water cooling rig going.


----------



## ZeroMe

Hay everyone, had a couple of questions about trying to unlock additional core's on my 960t. I am running bios v0813 and when I select to unlock hidden cores in the bios it shuts down the reboots by it self but I just get a blank screen, no post or anything. I have to manually clear the CMOS to get system back. Is there something I'm doing wrong or did I just get one that will not unlock. I got mine from amazon and was thinking of sending back. Any ideas would be welcome


----------



## firestorm1

soubds like you got one that wont unlock.


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> i forgot what its called, but its to protect the cards in caseof leakage. its some type of non absorbant foam, i think. ive used that stuff back in the day when i had my water cooling rig going.


I would think that would hold heat in.

I use distilled water in my loop, and got a little water on the back of my vid card one time. Rig just kept rebooting once it loaded windows until I figured it out and dried it off.


----------



## firestorm1

i never had any issues with it. i used it for over a year on my 295's until they came out with a back plate for them.


----------



## Speedy-j

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Motokiume*
> 
> I spent a lot of time researching my next motherboard, and after reading this thread, I went for the Sabertooth.
> So my first thing to say is - thanks to all you guys for the previous comments that helped me make my decision. It is a really nice board and I'm glad I came upon this thread.
> 
> My board came with BIOS 0705, it ran perfectly on my SSD drive, but suffered from BSOD's on my HDD. I flashed to BIOS 0901 but this made no difference. Eventually I found the cause of the BSOD's to be a faulty connection on my hard disk drive. This has now been rectified and I must say that this is an excellent board. Very stable and very capable.
> In retrospect, I would never have flashed the BIOS from 0705 to 0901, but seeing as the SSD drive seems to be exactly as good and stable on either BIOS, I am going to leave it on 0901 for now.
> Although I want a fast computer, my priority is stability and longevity. Therefore I don't bother with overclocking and I always buy ECC memory for my computers. I know I get a slight performance hit with ECC, but it runs DCS Warthog on high settings and that is all I need.
> So once again, thanks for all the good help and advice on this thread.


I love the collor of your case,i'm not gay but this collor is rare for computer cases.
Still love it!
This would be the perfect thing for my wife


----------



## ZeroMe

Ok after trying some settings my 960t BE chip seems stable at [email protected] and temps hit 43-45 and on idle they are at 34-36 with an thermaltake 120 cooler on air . I can still return this chip and see if i have better luck with an exchange or should i just count my blessings and keep this one. tried to go 4.1 and 4.2 but no matter what voltage i set manually in bios 1.45-1.50 it would not boot. set memory to 1333 in bios to make sure and was just using the multiplier 20.5X and 20.1X but no joy. Got this error on boot while trying to unlock 2 add core's "The current CPU can't use ASUS Core Unlocker!", is this a bios issue maybe?? Was only getting a quad but now that i read 80% of 960t are being unlocked I don't know if I would return it based on that alone. Came from an 939 Opteron 165 @2.7 so its been a while since i have been in this game. Could the bios be limiting my overclocks or unlocks?


----------



## Motokiume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedy-j*
> 
> I love the collor of your case,i'm not gay but this collor is rare for computer cases.
> Still love it!
> This would be the perfect thing for my wife


I'm glad you like the colour, however that is only the inside of the computer case.
It is red anodised inside and brushed matt black on the outside.


----------



## Citra

In please.









Sent from my HTC EVO 3D X515a


----------



## firestorm1

hey citra, what kind of temps are you getting with that noctua?


----------



## ExecuteMethod

First post here. I just built a new system. The first REAL one in 9 years. My previous build was an athlon64 3000+ when the architecture was in its infancy. Built on a gigabyte k8 mobo with a gig of ocz ddr800 ram and a x1950pro video card.

So this build is quite the step up for me.

New build is :

FX-6100 @ 4000
Xygmatek Loki cooler
Sabertooth on 0901
Mushkin 1866, 9-10-9-27
Mushkin Chronos 60G
WD Black 1T
Asus Xonar STX, yes I'm an audiophile
Radeon 4670 1G
Lancool Knight Series

Uefi > grub2> Archlinux. It boots in about 6-7 seconds after posting. I have a video on YouTube showing it, but it was slightly slower, like 10 seconds in the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F2zdc8PCtLc&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Here are some pics:
























Sent from my HTC Mecha


----------



## Citra

This is a really odd problem, after reseating my sound card, I no longer see the bios screen. My screen stays off until it finishes loading windows. Any ideas?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> hey citra, what kind of temps are you getting with that noctua?


Do you still want the temps even if the tim hasn't cured yet?


----------



## firestorm1

sure.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

There is a Sabertooth under the pipes,i promise.....

Still got a few bits to do yet tho...


----------



## firestorm1

thats a nice set up you have there.


----------



## fransurbo

Add me http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2178541


----------



## crust_cheese

You have to add yourself. See OP.


----------



## fransurbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crust_cheese*
> 
> You have to add yourself. See OP.


OP? I've read the first twenty or so pages, and all I could find was that I should post a photo of my motherboard OR my CPU-Z validation. Which I did. Post my CPU-Z validation that is. The link to add me to the club require a 'Verification post'... ?

EDIT: Ah, now I get it. The verification post must be the CPU-Z validation? Let's see if that works any way....


----------



## fransurbo

[I originally posted this in 'AMD › AMD - General' (http://www.overclock.net/t/1194675/voltages) but it probably fit better here.

Short version: There's TEN (10!) different voltages one can change on this motherboard - three (four?) that have something to do with the CPU and four that have to do with the northbridge! Is there any documentation that explain these and how they work together?

I thought I started to get a hang of OC with my Athlon (previous OC was with my Cyrix in '98 which only had a couple of dip switches on the MB







, but I'm almost back to square one again







. I just can't seem to get it up to 4.1 stable, not to mention 4.2 which is my immediate goal. I've seen post that say that you should only be able to get up to 4.2 'easily' if it's a great chip. But either mine isn't or I'm doing something horribly wrong.

My intention is to do at least +1GHz and call it a day. That probably require my WC (I have a Zalman Reserator 1+ in it's original packaging in the livingroom - just need to get a new block). Don't know if 4.3 is reasonable with that WC, but I'll give it a try at least.

But I really hope 4.2 is achievable with my Zalman!


----------



## DevilDriver

^^^^^ the 990FX Sabertooth is a nice board..
It is kind of hard to get the hang of all the options and voltages when your not use to them, but just start with the basics and go from there.
The manual that comes with this MB is very good as far as mb manuals go, and mine at least describes what every setting and voltage does.
.


----------



## fransurbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> The manual that comes with this MB is very good as far as mb manuals go, and mine at least describes what every setting and voltage does.
> .


+1 regarding quality. But mine (I doubt we have different manuals







doesn't say much about the VDDA, VDDR, NB1.8V and CPU/NB (which are the ones that I'm unsure of):

CPU VDDA Voltage [Auto]
Allows you to set the CPU VDDA voltage. The values range from...

NB 1.8V Voltage [Auto]
Allows you to set the NB 1.8V voltage. The values range from...

I mean, doh! That was kind'a obvious, wasn't it. But what IS the VDDA and NB1.8V?


----------



## DevilDriver

check out this thread
http://www.overclock.net/t/441042/what-in-the-world-is-cpu-vdda-voltage

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Understanding-All-Voltage-Configurations-from-the-Motherboard/995/3

hope those links help abit.


----------



## fransurbo

Perfect, thanx!


----------



## ExecuteMethod

Here is my verification post for this club. Also, this FX-6100 is a monster on my system running Linux only. Especially as the scheduling fixes have been in the Linux kernel since 3.0.

4Ghz easy with D.O.C.P. setting ram to the 1866 profile it has, turbocore off, multiplier to 20, everything else auto.


----------



## ExecuteMethod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is a Sabertooth under the pipes,i promise.....
> Still got a few bits to do yet tho...


Stealin all my thunder. LOL. J/K.

Pretty sick setup there man. +rep


----------



## fransurbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ExecuteMethod*
> 
> 4Ghz easy with D.O.C.P. setting ram to the 1866 profile it has, turbocore off, multiplier to 20, everything else auto.


What core frequency did you end up with from the DOCP? And what type of memory do you have? I can only get 3876MHz with DOCP...

And could we get more picture, better lighted? That is ... very beautiful setup! Artistic even. Do you run it like that, without a 'hood'?


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fransurbo*
> 
> What core frequency did you end up with from the DOCP? And what type of memory do you have? I can only get 3876MHz with DOCP...


He is running Bulldozer same as me. completly different animal. Mine is running at 4.7Ghz stable


----------



## fransurbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> He is running Bulldozer same as me. completly different animal. Mine is running at 4.7Ghz stable


Ah, missed that. Thanx. I was going to get me a Bulldozer for this rig, but there's to many problems (or so I've heard) with this generation so I'll take the next train and use the Phenom instead for now.


----------



## ExecuteMethod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fransurbo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ExecuteMethod*
> 
> 4Ghz easy with D.O.C.P. setting ram to the 1866 profile it has, turbocore off, multiplier to 20, everything else auto.
> 
> 
> 
> What core frequency did you end up with from the DOCP? And what type of memory do you have? I can only get 3876MHz with DOCP...
> 
> And could we get more picture, better lighted? That is ... very beautiful setup! Artistic even. Do you run it like that, without a 'hood'?
Click to expand...

Thanks! I run it with the hood, the last pic was just the best I had showing the internals.

The ram is Mushkin Redline 997008 2x4GB

I'm charging my good camera now. Those pics were taken with my phone. I'll post some more later.

Sent from my HTC Mecha


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fransurbo*
> 
> What core frequency did you end up with from the DOCP? And what type of memory do you have? I can only get 3876MHz with DOCP...
> And could we get more picture, better lighted? That is ... very beautiful setup! Artistic even. Do you run it like that, without a 'hood'?


If your talking about my bench,it doesnt come with a hood,its an open air chassis


----------



## ExecuteMethod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fransurbo*
> 
> What core frequency did you end up with from the DOCP? And what type of memory do you have? I can only get 3876MHz with DOCP...
> And could we get more picture, better lighted? That is ... very beautiful setup! Artistic even. Do you run it like that, without a 'hood'?
> 
> 
> 
> If your talking about my bench,it doesnt come with a hood,its an open air chassis
Click to expand...

Yeah, I think he was mixing both of ours. Cause yours is very artistic, while I would not consider mine so.
Sent from my HTC Mecha


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ExecuteMethod*
> 
> Yeah, I think he was mixing both of ours. Cause yours is very artistic, while I would not consider mine so.
> Sent from my HTC Mecha


You wait till you see my SB-e build if have in the pipeline...also Sabertooth based.
There is a build log link in my sig for my bench if you interested...


----------



## fransurbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ExecuteMethod*
> 
> Yeah, I think he was mixing both of ours. Cause yours is very artistic, while I would not consider mine so.
> Sent from my HTC Mecha


Don't know which one of you have the rig, but there was two photos where the MB was mounted on some military green steel contraption. That's the one I mean, could we get some better pics on that? What's it standing on, a stereo or another part of the rig?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fransurbo*
> 
> Don't know which one of you have the rig, but there was two photos where the MB was mounted on some military green steel contraption. That's the one I mean, could we get some better pics on that? What's it standing on, a stereo or another part of the rig?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1159792/project-pipebomb

The finished build pics will be up on tuesday when the last bits come in


----------



## fransurbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1159792/project-pipebomb
> The finished build pics will be up on tuesday when the last bits come in


Ohhh... Over two months for a build... I used to be impressed on the looks and your artistic streak, but now I'm more impressed with your patient


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I already had a decent rig and sometimes getting the parts you need can be an arse when you watercool....best not to rush builds i find


----------



## fransurbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> best not to rush builds i find


+1 on that! I do have my new rig built and is now playing with trying to OC it. And I have absolutely no rush getting it operational since the current one is working just fine. I don't think I'll play with it for two months though


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firestorm1*
> 
> sure.


Hey man, sorry about the late response, but i can't supply the temps as i am having some stability issues with my rig. Sorry.









Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## pony-tail

I am having heat issues with my mobo .
SpeedFan says temp 1 is 61 degrees Celsius .
My video cards are at 69 and 74 Deg Cel.
The room temp ( Ambient temp ) is 38C
Can anybody tell me what Temp 1 is and what reading I should be getting .


----------



## vartok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pony-tail*
> 
> I am having heat issues with my mobo .
> SpeedFan says temp 1 is 61 degrees Celsius .
> My video cards are at 69 and 74 Deg Cel.
> The room temp ( Ambient temp ) is 38C
> Can anybody tell me what Temp 1 is and what reading I should be getting .


I think temp1 might be one of the vrm probes.... if im right, it SHOULD be good up to 90c, but ive not found any hard numbers on that

correction it looks to be the cpu temp (misread the post)... 61 is a bit toasty... what CPU is it?


----------



## Big Shabazz

So I'm having an issue with this motherboard. After reading an article about how Skyrim is more CPU dependent than GPU, I decided to fiddle around in the BiOS and overclocked my CPU to 4.0 GHz. I also upped the frequency of the NB and HT Link to 2600, but when I reboot and load up BiOS or windows, both say that everything is right but my HT Link is still down at 2000 MHz.

Is there something I'm missing? I have the voltages set to Auto because I'm still fairly new to the whole overclocking idea and it runs stable through 15 cycles on the burn test, but I'm at a loss. The only way I can get the HT Link past 2000 is if I up the NB frequency up to about 2800 or so.


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> correction it looks to be the cpu temp (misread the post)... 61 is a bit toasty... what CPU is it?


It is only a 965be running at 3.8g at stock volts - Dropped the OC back to stock and still Temp 1 is in the low 60s
Core is reading 45c


----------



## Big Shabazz

What about hot spots on the CPU where there's no thermal grease between the CPU and the cooler.


----------



## pony-tail

I don't think so but I will pull the cooler off and check .
by the way the TIM is Arctic silver 5 and the cooler is a Thermalright Si-128 . It's a top down cooler so should have some flow over the VRMs.
My case is an Antec P183 ( original one ) so not the most overclock friendly .


----------



## pony-tail

I am back CPU cooler was seated OK ( a bit hard to remove - stuck firmly to the CPU ) .
I am a bit paranoid about heat issues as I have not long ago had issues with an MSI motherboard - a slight heat build-up and pop , blown VRMs . I can not afford to replace this board for a while If it goes boom .


----------



## Mistral

With an ambient room temperature of 38c 61c is not surprising that's only a delta temp of 23c, you really need to do something about your room temperature or get some serious CPU and case cooling, an ambient temp of below 25c would improve your temps all round.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Shabazz*
> 
> So I'm having an issue with this motherboard. After reading an article about how Skyrim is more CPU dependent than GPU, I decided to fiddle around in the BiOS and overclocked my CPU to 4.0 GHz. I also upped the frequency of the NB and HT Link to 2600, but when I reboot and load up BiOS or windows, both say that everything is right but my HT Link is still down at 2000 MHz.
> Is there something I'm missing? I have the voltages set to Auto because I'm still fairly new to the whole overclocking idea and it runs stable through 15 cycles on the burn test, but I'm at a loss. The only way I can get the HT Link past 2000 is if I up the NB frequency up to about 2800 or so.


The HT should stay as close to stock as possible,there is no performance advantage and can compromise stability. +/- 100 is the max 'swing'.


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> With an ambient room temperature of 38c 61c is not surprising that's only a delta temp of 23c, you really need to do something about your room temperature or get some serious CPU and case cooling, an ambient temp of below 25c would improve your temps all round.


Unfortunately high 30c and low 40s are just what the temps are in mid summer in my part of the world and the cost of air conditioning an old wooden house , down to 25c would be prohibitive and 25c would be uncomfortably cool for me .


----------



## Mistral

Your only other option is to improve the CPU cooling or case cooling, the sound proofing on the Antec P183 isn't helping with the cooling, you could really do with getting a bigger case with more airflow, a case with a large side fan would improve your CPU and GPU temps, or the quick dirty solution is remove the side panel and use a large desk fan to cool the components.


----------



## racer86

is anyone having problems with the asus sabertooth page on their website? im trying to download the latest bios to fix my bsod issue but i keep getting an error


----------



## DevilDriver

^^^ I'm at work and pulled the page up with out any issue


----------



## racer86

problem solved

also i kinda like this chip does 3.9ghz at 1.26v


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> Your only other option is to improve the CPU cooling or case cooling, the sound proofing on the Antec P183 isn't helping with the cooling, you could really do with getting a bigger case with more airflow, a case with a large side fan would improve your CPU and GPU temps, or the quick dirty solution is remove the side panel and use a large desk fan to cool the components


My current "fix" is to run with the side door off and an Antec " Big Boy " 200mm fan strung where the door should be with some "Bunjie" chord ( in case Americans call it by a different name - "Bunjie" chord is like an elastic stretchy rope ) .
Genuine high tech !


----------



## Citra

Need help. :/
http://www.overclock.net/t/1198696/bsod-after-5-minutes-of-prime-95-at-stock#post_16169328

Might have a faulty sabertooth. :/


----------



## Dnoces

There you have it. Can I join your club?


----------



## tewrecks

I've upgraded from xp sp3 to win7 64. I cannot get xp mode to install . It almost does, but at the last few seconds crashes with an error message. Anyone else have this problem? I have a 4100, and the latest bios. I can get the virtual PC ok but not the xp mode?


----------



## 12Cores

Sign me up, great board so far I am able to run my NB at 2.8 ghz stable which has really increased my minimum fps. Just going to wait for Kelper to be released to drive down the cost of the GTX 560 ti and the 6870 so that I can upgrade my cards to new CFX or SLI config.


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *12Cores*
> 
> Sign me up, great board so far I am able to run my NB at 2.8 ghz stable which has really increased my minimum fps. Just going to wait for Kelper to be released to drive down the cost of the GTX 560 ti and the 6870 so that I can upgrade my cards to new CFX or SLI config.


Nice rig you got there! Just wondering what temps are you getting with the 1055t and a 120mm rad?


----------



## 12Cores

Ceaze I also have a 240mm push pull rad at the bottom of the case temps never go over 50c.


----------



## ZeroMe

Hello all, I have been trying to find a good everyday overclock on a 960T and i think i have achieved it with a (20x200) 4.0MHz @1.356v temps 43c max and an CPU/NB 3000 @1.25v with temps NB HT 35-37c, memory running 1333. Prime stable but have been reading online about CPU/NB volts should be safe at 1.225 - 1.250v but i am not sure with this motherboard as stock its 1.15V. Can someone enlighten me about safe Volts and am i looking at the right temp for the NB under the TurboV EVO monitor asus software?


----------



## Mreek

Hi, and good morning.\evening.

I have a problem with getting this computer stable over 4.2+ ghz. (only stabil at 3.9)
I got watercooling, just changed liquid, but still it's giving me bluescreens.

What am I doing wrong?
If I forgot any important things that could be helpful so if you guys can help it will be simply

My system is in my sig.







Really appreciate all answers.

Have a Great day \good night 

grtz

Mreek


----------



## WeirdHarold

Ok everyone just got done putting my system together and got it all up and running and I've hit a small problem, and sorry if this has been asked before:

I use an optical/toslink cable to output sound to my Dolby / DTS receiver and I've never had an issue getting the full surround sound signal to the receiver before with any onboard audio chip, all I've ever had to do was make sure is was set to 5.1 channel in the settings. But the only options on this are 2 channel at many different sample rates, are there any solutions to this issue? Thanks ahead of time for any help you can give my


----------



## MacLeod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mreek*
> 
> Hi, and good morning.\evening.
> I have a problem with getting this computer stable over 4.2+ ghz. (only stabil at 3.9)
> I got watercooling, just changed liquid, but still it's giving me bluescreens.
> What am I doing wrong?
> If I forgot any important things that could be helpful so if you guys can help it will be simply
> My system is in my sig.


That might be the top for you. HardOCP did their review on this board and used a 1055 since the FX procs werent out yet and they were only able to get 3.9 stable. So you might be peaking with that thing. You may have to move up to a Black Edition if you want to get over 4 gig.


----------



## Mreek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MacLeod*
> 
> That might be the top for you. HardOCP did their review on this board and used a 1055 since the FX procs werent out yet and they were only able to get 3.9 stable. So you might be peaking with that thing. You may have to move up to a Black Edition if you want to get over 4 gig.


Thank you alot for your info! Got a tip on what I should pick for this board? high OC 

Thanks again

Mreek


----------



## MacLeod

The X6 1100's are generally the best for overclocking. Those routinely get into the low 4's without much problem. If youre wanting the highest overclock, you could get an FX-8120. Theyre a little more at $220 but can overclock pretty high. Ive seen several well into the upper 4's and even a couple reporting 5! The Sabertooth motherboard is possibly the most bulletproof and durable motherboard out there so if anything will be able to handle a big overclock, that would be the one.


----------



## Mreek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MacLeod*
> 
> The X6 1100's are generally the best for overclocking. Those routinely get into the low 4's without much problem. If youre wanting the highest overclock, you could get an FX-8120. Theyre a little more at $220 but can overclock pretty high. Ive seen several well into the upper 4's and even a couple reporting 5! The Sabertooth motherboard is possibly the most bulletproof and durable motherboard out there so if anything will be able to handle a big overclock, that would be the one.


Thanks again! + rep 

Mreek:thumb:


----------



## TridentKeeper

Hi guys,

i need help, i am getting a Prime95 Error. Illegal Sumout.

at my rig, can someone help me out on what do I need to do just to get a stable clock @ 4.5ghz or 4.6ghz using my set up.

I do know to to overclock. I just cant seem to figure out the board.

here's my oc profile.

FSB = auto
Multiplier set to x22
volts set 1.500v
NB mhz = 2200mhz
AMD Turbo Core = off
RAM Clocks = 1333(BIOS default)
Ram timings = (Auto)

Here's my rig.

Asus Sabertooth 990FX
AMD FX-6100
Antec Kuhler H2O scythe kaze jyuni 1900rpm push pull config
Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600mhz C9
AMD Powercolor 6950 stock clocks
Force GT 90GB SSD
4TB of WD assorted.
Seasonic X series X850 850W


----------



## TridentKeeper

any reply would be of great help


----------



## MacLeod

Just pulled the trigger on one of these beauties along with some Corsair Vengeance memory. Been drooling over these things since they first were rumored to be coming out and Ill have my very own Tuesday! Man I cant wait!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TridentKeeper*
> 
> any reply would be of great help


As for the guy above - what exactly is your computer doing. Is it BSOD'ing, or freezing up or is it just the program that giving you problems. Does it do this no matter what the clock or is there a certain speed at which it will run stable? Need a little more info and symptoms.


----------



## TridentKeeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MacLeod*
> 
> Just pulled the trigger on one of these beauties along with some Corsair Vengeance memory. Been drooling over these things since they first were rumored to be coming out and Ill have my very own Tuesday! Man I cant wait!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the guy above - what exactly is your computer doing. Is it BSOD'ing, or freezing up or is it just the program that giving you problems. Does it do this no matter what the clock or is there a certain speed at which it will run stable? Need a little more info and symptoms.


Hi thanks for the reply. yeah sorry for the input. I have no BSOD, only unstable at prime. and IBT I only get 19GGLOPS 0_0.

Cinbench I only get like 4.53.

-_-. I know I can get good scores its just that I dont know where I am getting the mistake at.

Prime95 has that sumout error.

here's my UEFI settings
-_-


----------



## TridentKeeper

I have updated my bios to 0901


----------



## WeirdHarold

Alright sign me up here's my CPUz


----------



## WeirdHarold

Ok if no one has anything to say on the subject of getting 5.1 channel audio working over optical out to a surround sound receiver maybe someone could answer this question: Can I run a PCI express X1 sound card in the very bottom PCI express X16 slot on this board? I know that most X16 slots have this capability but some motherboards and sound cards seem to have issues with it, I'm looking at either an HT Omega or a Creative SB X-FI card?

Thanks for any info


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Ok if no one has anything to say on the subject of getting 5.1 channel audio working over optical out to a surround sound receiver maybe someone could answer this question: Can I run a PCI express X1 sound card in the very bottom PCI express X16 slot on this board? I know that most X16 slots have this capability but some motherboards and sound cards seem to have issues with it, I'm looking at either an HT Omega or a Creative SB X-FI card?
> Thanks for any info


Did you use the audio settings to set the out put for the spdif? I knw there are alot of sound options to change. I'll look at mine when I get home.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Ok if no one has anything to say on the subject of getting 5.1 channel audio working over optical out to a surround sound receiver maybe someone could answer this question: Can I run a PCI express X1 sound card in the very bottom PCI express X16 slot on this board? I know that most X16 slots have this capability but some motherboards and sound cards seem to have issues with it, I'm looking at either an HT Omega or a Creative SB X-FI card?
> Thanks for any info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you use the audio settings to set the out put for the spdif? I knw there are alot of sound options to change. I'll look at mine when I get home.
Click to expand...

Yeah I tried every driver from the one on the disc to the latest on Asus site to the latest on Realtek's site along with every setting I can in the sound options. The problem is that where I'd normally select 5.1 channel all it gives me is 2 channel options just at different bit rates, I've selected the Dolby and DTS audio formats but still nothing but 2 channel audio. On my receiver gets a digital surround signal there is a blue light that comes on and that hasn't lit up on anything since I disconnected my old computer. At this point I'm kinda wanting to get an actual sound card that I know will encode for Dolby Dig and DTS, rather and hoping that Realtek and or Asus will enable/fix this on the onboard and so when I do my next build I don't need to worry about the sound working right again.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Ok if no one has anything to say on the subject of getting 5.1 channel audio working over optical out to a surround sound receiver maybe someone could answer this question: Can I run a PCI express X1 sound card in the very bottom PCI express X16 slot on this board? I know that most X16 slots have this capability but some motherboards and sound cards seem to have issues with it, I'm looking at either an HT Omega or a Creative SB X-FI card?
> Thanks for any info


Yes you can, I can run my Xonar DX that way. It should work in second pcie x16 slot as well.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Ok if no one has anything to say on the subject of getting 5.1 channel audio working over optical out to a surround sound receiver maybe someone could answer this question: Can I run a PCI express X1 sound card in the very bottom PCI express X16 slot on this board? I know that most X16 slots have this capability but some motherboards and sound cards seem to have issues with it, I'm looking at either an HT Omega or a Creative SB X-FI card?
> Thanks for any info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes you can, I can run my Xonar DX that way. It should work in second pcie x16 slot as well.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, I'd prefer not to run it in the second slot because I will be putting an SLI setup in at some point and I don't want to cut down on the airflow between the cards. but it's good to know that I have options, thanks again


----------



## Fynx

hi,
im a new member to ocn just got my sabertooth yesterday this is my 2nd build kind of and i was wondering what could make my cpu run so hot in this build when it ran near ice in the last the only component that changed was the motherboard oh and the thermal paste. The thermal paste used the first time was what was provided on the stock fan with my cpu this time i used the arctic mx-2 i would have used ic 7 but the person helping me had an accident with my last application left
i noticed in bios that the cpu temperature would go up to 50c when my last build would still be 30-34 i have yet to boot into windows on my new build so i dont know the temperatures it will tell me in there but my old one ran 32-38 idle in windows and up to max 70 on full load with ambient temperature of 35c i prefer to keep my room around 20c this is the first time iv ever seen a pc run so hot while doing nothing i also noticed in bios my cpu fan was gradually increasing from 1000rpm to 2400 rpm and wasn't going much higher while in the cpu fan connection slot but while changed to a chassis fan slot it ran at 3500rpm and the temperature at that point wont go higher then 47 i then did a bios update and its now at 45 is there anyone who could help me find out how to get this to run colder on idle ? i already plan to get a new cooling for this build but my problem right now is i have to wait for 1-2 months before i can.


----------



## neham

I had the same problem with the sabretooth and I finally figured out what was going wrong believe or not it was a setting on the surround amp that was causing the problem check your surround settings on the amp. Iam using a Sherwood RD-6505 and I have it set to Martix at the moment and it works. Hope that helps


----------



## coreupted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fynx*
> 
> hi,
> im a new member to ocn just got my sabertooth yesterday this is my 2nd build kind of and i was wondering what could make my cpu run so hot in this build when it ran near ice in the last the only component that changed was the motherboard oh and the thermal paste. The thermal paste used the first time was what was provided on the stock fan with my cpu this time i used the arctic mx-2 i would have used ic 7 but the person helping me had an accident with my last application left
> i noticed in bios that the cpu temperature would go up to 50c when my last build would still be 30-34 i have yet to boot into windows on my new build so i dont know the temperatures it will tell me in there but my old one ran 32-38 idle in windows and up to max 70 on full load with ambient temperature of 35c i prefer to keep my room around 20c this is the first time iv ever seen a pc run so hot while doing nothing i also noticed in bios my cpu fan was gradually increasing from 1000rpm to 2400 rpm and wasn't going much higher while in the cpu fan connection slot but while changed to a chassis fan slot it ran at 3500rpm and the temperature at that point wont go higher then 47 i then did a bios update and its now at 45 is there anyone who could help me find out how to get this to run colder on idle ? i already plan to get a new cooling for this build but my problem right now is i have to wait for 1-2 months before i can.


Hi...same situation as im in..i had a asrock 870 extreme3 board before my sabertooth and my idle core temps were 19/20....now is 27 idle..and im using AS5 now

the fan situation , go into thermal radar then click the case part, then click the fan you want to change speed, go into settings and change the profile...

the problem i have is....when i connect through hdmi the bios is fooked up like the resolution so small cant do anything but when i connect with dvi it works no problem...


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neham*
> 
> I had the same problem with the sabretooth and I finally figured out what was going wrong believe or not it was a setting on the surround amp that was causing the problem check your surround settings on the amp. Iam using a Sherwood RD-6505 and I have it set to Martix at the moment and it works. Hope that helps


I'll flip through the different settings on the receiver and see if it makes any different, but in the past the receiver has always detected the change in signal and adjusted accordingly it's a Sony and a few years old but still has great sound. I was also wondering I haven't updated the Bios to the most recent because I've not had any reason to everything save this one item has worked fine, could a Bios update help?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreupted*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fynx*
> 
> hi,
> im a new member to ocn just got my sabertooth yesterday this is my 2nd build kind of and i was wondering what could make my cpu run so hot in this build when it ran near ice in the last the only component that changed was the motherboard oh and the thermal paste. The thermal paste used the first time was what was provided on the stock fan with my cpu this time i used the arctic mx-2 i would have used ic 7 but the person helping me had an accident with my last application left
> i noticed in bios that the cpu temperature would go up to 50c when my last build would still be 30-34 i have yet to boot into windows on my new build so i dont know the temperatures it will tell me in there but my old one ran 32-38 idle in windows and up to max 70 on full load with ambient temperature of 35c i prefer to keep my room around 20c this is the first time iv ever seen a pc run so hot while doing nothing i also noticed in bios my cpu fan was gradually increasing from 1000rpm to 2400 rpm and wasn't going much higher while in the cpu fan connection slot but while changed to a chassis fan slot it ran at 3500rpm and the temperature at that point wont go higher then 47 i then did a bios update and its now at 45 is there anyone who could help me find out how to get this to run colder on idle ? i already plan to get a new cooling for this build but my problem right now is i have to wait for 1-2 months before i can.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi...same situation as im in..i had a asrock 870 extreme3 board before my sabertooth and my idle core temps were 19/20....now is 27 idle..and im using AS5 now
> 
> the fan situation , go into thermal radar then click the case part, then click the fan you want to change speed, go into settings and change the profile...
> 
> the problem i have is....when i connect through hdmi the bios is fooked up like the resolution so small cant do anything but when i connect with dvi it works no problem...
Click to expand...

Ok the Bios reads a sensor on the motherboard under the Processor if you load windows and run HWmonitor you'll see the motherboard shows a CPU temp and then below there is the Processor temps or core temps on mine under the motherboard it shows 27C for the CPU then the Processor core temps show around 17C. I'm more worried about the core temps then what the motherboard sensor says , hope this helps


----------



## coreupted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Ok the Bios reads a sensor on the motherboard under the Processor if you load windows and run HWmonitor you'll see the motherboard shows a CPU temp and then below there is the Processor temps or core temps on mine under the motherboard it shows 27C for the CPU then the Processor core temps show around 17C. I'm more worried about the core temps then what the motherboard sensor says , hope this helps


Yeah i know that but what im saying the only things that have changed are this motherboard and better thermal paste...with the asrock board i was getting 19/20 idle and this board im 27/28 idle, thats core temps....

thanks


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreupted*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Ok the Bios reads a sensor on the motherboard under the Processor if you load windows and run HWmonitor you'll see the motherboard shows a CPU temp and then below there is the Processor temps or core temps on mine under the motherboard it shows 27C for the CPU then the Processor core temps show around 17C. I'm more worried about the core temps then what the motherboard sensor says , hope this helps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah i know that but what im saying the only things that have changed are this motherboard and better thermal paste...with the asrock board i was getting 19/20 idle and this board im 27/28 idle, thats core temps....
> 
> thanks
Click to expand...

I'd try a re-seat of the heat sink sounds to me like you might not have good contact or the thermal paste didn't spread correctly, that's where I would start if it were my system always start with the most simple solution and work from there. The reason I mentioned the motherboard sensor was because you were talking about the temps shown in the Bios and for some reason on mine it shows the motherboard sensor temp in the Bios and not the core temp.


----------



## coreupted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I'd try a re-seat of the heat sink sounds to me like you might not have good contact or the thermal paste didn't spread correctly, that's where I would start if it were my system always start with the most simple solution and work from there. The reason I mentioned the motherboard sensor was because you were talking about the temps shown in the Bios and for some reason on mine it shows the motherboard sensor temp in the Bios and not the core temp.


sorry mate i never mentioned bios temps...mines were core temps....and yeah may have to re-seat i will see how it goes...

funny thing is..when i put cooler on cpu with the asrock it was in the case.....
with the sabretooth i attached it outside the case and it was much easier so thought it would better...hmmm strange..


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreupted*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I'd try a re-seat of the heat sink sounds to me like you might not have good contact or the thermal paste didn't spread correctly, that's where I would start if it were my system always start with the most simple solution and work from there. The reason I mentioned the motherboard sensor was because you were talking about the temps shown in the Bios and for some reason on mine it shows the motherboard sensor temp in the Bios and not the core temp.
> 
> 
> 
> sorry mate i never mentioned bios temps...mines were core temps....and yeah may have to re-seat i will see how it goes...
> 
> funny thing is..when i put cooler on cpu with the asrock it was in the case.....
> with the sabretooth i attached it outside the case and it was much easier so thought it would better...hmmm strange..
Click to expand...

Ok sorry in my first post I was answering both you and the guy that you answered, and the post by Fynx mentioned the Bios temps


----------



## Fynx

thank you for the help







core temp was just installed and its telling me im idle at 26 now and bios is saying idle at 36


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fynx*
> 
> thank you for the help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> core temp was just installed and its telling me im idle at 26 now and bios is saying idle at 36


Yeah I don't know why that sensor is used by the bios instead of the core temp sensors on the CPU but there you have it LoL, and you're most welcome


----------



## WeirdHarold

Anyway to anyone that saw my posts over the past couple of days about my Audio problems, Problems solved ! I was looking at audio cards online figuring that I'd get one down the road and that I'd just deal with the lack of surround sound for now, thinking maybe I'd solve the problem with the on-board codec in the mean time. Well, I for some strange reason wandered to Best Buy's web site when I almost never do cause their prices are usually higher than Newegg for instance. Well just so happened that they had the Creative X-FI Titanium on sale for $59.99, just the standard one not the Pro so I grabbed it and it's installed and everything is good in my audio world again









This is the one I got:

here is the link to it on Newegg since their description is a bit better than on Best Buy's site:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829102024


----------



## ZOXZX

Hello fellow Sabertooth owners 

I'll sumarize my experience with this board so far. CPU is 1090T:
813 bios needs 1.44 volts to run cpu at 4GHz.
705 needs 1.41 for same frequency.
Also, 705 needs lower NB voltages for stable operation.

LLC set to high on 813 sets chosen voltages and they are rock solid.
705 undervolts or overvolts based on LLC strenght. There are slight voltage variations but nothing major.

705 bios didn't set spd values for RAM unless specifically chosen.
Caused instabilities even with 1333 9-9-9-27 (ECC off).
Don't know for 813.

SSD capable of 500+ MB/s is only giving 400 on both bioses.
RAID 5 with 3 spinpoint f1 drives has lower throughput than single drive-> in 705.
Didn't test in 813 but i'm not expecting miracles based on similar SSD perf.

With 705 turning off write cache buffer flushing for drives causes system stalls every 10 - 15 seconds.
813 didn't have such problems.

Gonna try 901 even there are negative opinion about that one ...


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZOXZX*
> 
> Hello fellow Sabertooth owners
> I'll sumarize my experience with this board so far. CPU is 1090T:
> 813 bios needs 1.44 volts to run cpu at 4GHz.
> 705 needs 1.41 for same frequency.
> Also, 705 needs lower NB voltages for stable operation.
> LLC set to high on 813 sets chosen voltages and they are rock solid.
> 705 undervolts or overvolts based on LLC strenght. There are slight voltage variations but nothing major.
> 705 bios didn't set spd values for RAM unless specifically chosen.
> Caused instabilities even with 1333 9-9-9-27 (ECC off).
> Don't know for 813.
> SSD capable of 500+ MB/s is only giving 400 on both bioses.
> RAID 5 with 3 spinpoint f1 drives has lower throughput than single drive-> in 705.
> Didn't test in 813 but i'm not expecting miracles based on similar SSD perf.
> With 705 turning off write cache buffer flushing for drives causes system stalls every 10 - 15 seconds.
> 813 didn't have such problems.
> Gonna try 901 even there are negative opinion about that one ...


Good Info, Thanks


----------



## racer86

just got my rig going


----------



## Boomstick68

Having a problem with my board. I cannot setup a raid array with my new SSD drives. I have it set to RAID in the bios but when prompted to hit ctrl f I can't access the proper RAID management screen. I get this:


----------



## ZOXZX

Sorry, I don't understand ... That is RAID setup screen. Press 2 to define LD (logical drive) and pick your RAID level/drives.


----------



## TridentKeeper

hi I am having some slight issue with the board at 0901 bios, when ever I adjust the voltage to a higher value than default. it always locks it at default everytime it goes to windows.


----------



## TridentKeeper

CPU voltage that is.


----------



## firestorm1

any news on a new bios? i need something else to mess around with.


----------



## ZOXZX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TridentKeeper*
> 
> CPU voltage that is.


Perhaps you set manual voltage instead offset?


----------



## TridentKeeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZOXZX*
> 
> Perhaps you set manual voltage instead offset?


Perhaps. what do I need to do? change it offset? "0.003545


----------



## Dnoces

Hey, It just doesnt show as a new volt in windows. If you use ai sweet you can see the real voltages.


----------



## Boomstick68

Speaking of AI Suite II, I cannot get it to install. I've tried the installation disk and downloading it from ASUS. The installer will not initiate. Anyone else run into this?


----------



## Dave001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boomstick68*
> 
> Speaking of AI Suite II, I cannot get it to install. I've tried the installation disk and downloading it from ASUS. The installer will not initiate. Anyone else run into this?


This fixed it for me.

Run the patcher.
http://support.asus.com/Search/KDetail.aspx?SLanguage=en&no=B0CE1E0F-02A6-3B76-712C-CC36FF6174CD&t=2

Run the install from the installation disk (the downloaded file would not work for me).

That's it.


----------



## TridentKeeper

Hi when ever I change my volts in the bios , example 1.3750v, when system boots up on aida64, coretemp and and over drive shows a drop of volts to 1.3375v only. Bios set to CPU volts to manual.


----------



## TridentKeeper

bump


----------



## ZOXZX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TridentKeeper*
> 
> Hi when ever I change my volts in the bios , example 1.3750v, when system boots up on aida64, coretemp and and over drive shows a drop of volts to 1.3375v only. Bios set to CPU volts to manual.


Read your default voltage.
Go to BIOS, change voltage mode to offset and then add desired amount of voltage on top of default.
Use CPU Z for voltage readings.

Note that Overdrive reads default voltage.
Be aware of the fact that board is putting additional voltage beyond CPU's knowledge so when you are changing voltage in AOD, there is always fixed amount added on top of your desired value.
As I said, CPU Z reports correct (default + offset) voltage so use it for fine tuning ...


----------



## MacLeod

Yeah that stumped me too. Im adjusting Vcore manually and have 1.475 set in the BIOS and LLC set to regular and am showing 1.45 in CPU-Z. Weird.

Took a while to figure all that out. I was getting insane temps cause LLC kept bumping the voltage up to 1.5+ during Prime95 and my temps were shooting up to 57-58!!! Plus youve gotta turn the Q-Fan setting off otherwise youll be running your CPU fan below speed. First time I fired up Prime with a 4 gig clock, I shot up to 61C within a minute! My CPU fan was piddling along at 1200 RPMs.

Finally got everything figured out though I think and Im idling at 25C (ambient room temp is 20-21) and getting 47-48C during Prime95 at 4.013.

Really wanting to try for 4.2 but Im gonna need some better cooling I think for that.

This is such an awesome board though. My old ASRock 780G would barely do 3.8 at 1.5 VCore!!! This thing is shredding 4.01 at 1.45. Love it!


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZOXZX*
> 
> Read your default voltage.
> Go to BIOS, change voltage mode to offset and then add desired amount of voltage on top of default.
> Use CPU Z for voltage readings.
> Note that Overdrive reads default voltage.
> Be aware of the fact that board is putting additional voltage beyond CPU's knowledge so when you are changing voltage in AOD, there is always fixed amount added on top of your desired value.
> As I said, CPU Z reports correct (default + offset) voltage so use it for fine tuning ...


Does Overdrive even report the correct CPU frequency?? It doesn't seem to be in sync to either CPU-z or AI suite.


----------



## Solders18

Update:



http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2209742


----------



## Citra

Just a FYI to all new owners, I was having ram problems running at their rated speed. Newest Bios fixed it.


----------



## racer86

has anyone tried 2400mhz memory on their board yet? i see it as a default setting in the bios and im curious as to whether or not it will run 2400 native (i know 2133 native works and 2300mhz OC works) i may have to play around with my 2133 kit and see if 2400 is a viable setting for this


----------



## sweffymo

Anything above 1866 is technically an overclock on BD... On my processor the highest multiplier I can get is 1600.









Sent from my rotary phone using Dial-a-talk.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweffymo*
> 
> Sent from my rotary phone using Dial-a-talk.


LMAO-sigged.

-dimwit-


----------



## racer86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweffymo*
> 
> Anything above 1866 is technically an overclock on BD... On my processor the highest multiplier I can get is 1600.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my rotary phone using Dial-a-talk.


the highest setting I have to set my memory to is 2400 default ive had 2363 or something like that with an easy oc ive had 2263 prime stable on 1.65v

It may be bulldozer specific since you dont have it


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweffymo*
> 
> Sent from my rotary phone using Dial-a-talk.


That is awesome 


----------



## TridentKeeper

anybody here experiencing some slow issue when it comes to posting??


----------



## sc4bbedwing

I just bought this board yesterday, installed Windows 7 64 bit on Intel SSD which connected to sata 1. I have two Western Digital Caviar Black which i want set it in Raid 1 for my data. Which sata port i have to plug? and how to set it on bios?

Thanks!


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TridentKeeper*
> 
> anybody here experiencing some slow issue when it comes to posting??


Are you talking about inital post where you will see the TuF logo 3 times? if so thats normal for this board from my understanding. its going through its drive controllers.


----------



## TridentKeeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> Are you talking about inital post where you will see the TuF logo 3 times? if so thats normal for this board from my understanding. its going through its drive controllers.


Yep. yeah based from what i see the red LED just sits right there(SATA Controller 990FX chip) during post....weird for a high caliber board. but meh, cant complain. Love this board. Good to know that I am not the only one who share's my pain.


----------



## DevilDriver

Yea, personally I don't mind the board going through all the self checks.
This is the first mother board I haven't had to reset the BIOS on manually due to a bad oc.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> Are you talking about inital post where you will see the TuF logo 3 times? if so thats normal for this board from my understanding. its going through its drive controllers.


Happened to me, I just shut off the jmicron controller since I don't need it as of right now.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> Yea, personally I don't mind the board going through all the self checks.
> This is the first mother board I haven't had to reset the BIOS on manually due to a bad oc.


me too.
i couldnt tell you how many times i have had to set the jumpers/pulled the battery-URGH!!!
only 1 time have i had to set the jumpers on this board.
the "mem ok" button is my best friend-lol

-dimwit-


----------



## Kvjavs

How are you guys liking the Sabertooth 990FX with a Bulldozer CPU? Mainly the FX-8xxx series. Considering buying the 990FX with the 8120 with 6870 or 6950 Crossfire here soon.


----------



## racer86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kvjavs*
> 
> How are you guys liking the Sabertooth 990FX with a Bulldozer CPU? Mainly the FX-8xxx series. Considering buying the 990FX with the 8120 with 6870 or 6950 Crossfire here soon.


i like mine alot got the pair for 325 the board takes my fx8120 to 4.4 on air and 4.8-5.0 is bootable at 1.55 but the tems are too high for testing also ive been able to stablize 2260 mhz memory at 9-11-10-28 1.65v currently working on 2400mhz

the bios is full of options to tweak ur setup in every way possible ive run 4ghz stock volts over all im very pleased with my setup


----------



## skline00

Well today newegg delivered my Asus Sabertooth 990FX mb and Antec 750 Gamer PSU. I had been using an Asrock 970 Extreme 4 mb with a CM 650GTX PSU. Trust me when I tell you the Asus sabertooth coupled with the new PSU made a noticeable difference. I use Intel burn test as one diagnostic. My CPU AMD 1100T if OC is the Asrock mb would lock up the Intel Burn test. In the Asus MB I let it auto tune in the BIOS and diabled the turbo. I'm running 3843Mhz on all six cores with DDR1600 ram. The MB could be tweaked more but it is running SOLID at this OC. This Asus is amazing!
Specs:
MB Asus Sabertooth 990FX
CPU AMD 1100T @3844 (16.5 x233)
CPU Cooler Zalman 9900LED with AS5 TP
PSU Antec Gamer 750 watt
Video 2 MSI Cyclone 460GTX-768s in SLI
Ram 8 g of DDR3-1600 GSKILL
HDD Intel 40g ssd(OS); WD Caviar Blue 320g data
Case Old Antec 1200 Server case with 3 80mm fans
OS Win 7-64 HP
Monitor AOC 22" 1920x1080


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kvjavs*
> 
> How are you guys liking the Sabertooth 990FX with a Bulldozer CPU? Mainly the FX-8xxx series. Considering buying the 990FX with the 8120 with 6870 or 6950 Crossfire here soon.


I just have a 6100 - but I'm very pleased with my Sabertooth - running at 4200MHz with turbo enabled to 4700. 1.375 volts.


----------



## skline00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZOXZX*
> 
> Hello fellow Sabertooth owners
> I'll sumarize my experience with this board so far. CPU is 1090T:
> 813 bios needs 1.44 volts to run cpu at 4GHz.
> 705 needs 1.41 for same frequency.
> Also, 705 needs lower NB voltages for stable operation.
> LLC set to high on 813 sets chosen voltages and they are rock solid.
> 705 undervolts or overvolts based on LLC strenght. There are slight voltage variations but nothing major.
> 705 bios didn't set spd values for RAM unless specifically chosen.
> Caused instabilities even with 1333 9-9-9-27 (ECC off).
> Don't know for 813.
> SSD capable of 500+ MB/s is only giving 400 on both bioses.
> RAID 5 with 3 spinpoint f1 drives has lower throughput than single drive-> in 705.
> Didn't test in 813 but i'm not expecting miracles based on similar SSD perf.
> With 705 turning off write cache buffer flushing for drives causes system stalls every 10 - 15 seconds.
> 813 didn't have such problems.
> Gonna try 901 even there are negative opinion about that one ...


ZOXZX: Did you increase the clock multiplier on the 1090T or did you increase the front side bus? The reason I ask is I just got this MB for my 1100T (BIOS 813) and I disabled the turbo and let the OC in the BIOS do it's magic. It kept the multiplier at AUTO(16.5) but bumped the FSB to 233 for an effective rate of 3844. Are your settings 20 multiplier x 200FSB or some other combo?


----------



## ht_addict

Please remove me from the list. Traded away my desktop for a Alienware R17x gaming notebook. Will miss my Sabertooth. Beautiful board that took my FX8150 to 4.8ghz, but the baby on the way comes first and he needs my computer room.


----------



## skline00

Good luck with the baby! At nearly 61, my wife and I have 3 grown daughters (all married) and 1 grandchild and 2 on the way. What used to be the girls playroom downstairs is now my computer room. TRUST ME enjoy your baby. Won't be long before he is pounding away at your new Alienware notebook keyboard!


----------



## adolf512

i am deciding between ga-990fxa-ud3 and asus sabertooth 990fx, i have a phenom II 965 c3 cpu currently clocked at 4ghz @1.525V and i am looking for a replacement-board for my ga-790xta-ud4 board. i am looking for a better oc, sli support without modded drivers(good to have in the future), more pci express slots, support for piledriver(it might be good, who knows), etc

i am note a huge fan over the layout pci-e layout that these boards uses but i can live with that. i like the all black design ud3 uses and i actually prefer the old school bios layout gigabyte uses. the gigabyte board is also slightly cheaper.

most motherboards seams to has internal serial port(even if the specs at a Swedish store told otherwise). since my current motherboard has a broken fan header i might get the new board for just the price difference compared to the old.


----------



## Solders18

it sounds like you pretty much have your choice made. i have had 2 Asus MB's because my friend had it when i went to build mine and it was a solid board then i replaced it with another asus. my roommate had a Gigabyte board and it seem solid as well. if one board suits your fancy more than the other, they are both reputable brands.


----------



## adolf512

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> it sounds like you pretty much have your choice made. i have had 2 Asus MB's because my friend had it when i went to build mine and it was a solid board then i replaced it with another asus. my roommate had a Gigabyte board and it seem solid as well. if one board suits your fancy more than the other, they are both reputable brands.


it's 50/50 actually, it seams that asus sabertooth is better for overclocking. i am missing two 3-pin fan headers on the sabertooth since antec kuhler 920 uses one 3 pin and it's good two have two(one of mine burnen).


----------



## ZOXZX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skline00*
> 
> ZOXZX: Did you increase the clock multiplier on the 1090T or did you increase the front side bus? The reason I ask is I just got this MB for my 1100T (BIOS 813) and I disabled the turbo and let the OC in the BIOS do it's magic. It kept the multiplier at AUTO(16.5) but bumped the FSB to 233 for an effective rate of 3844. Are your settings 20 multiplier x 200FSB or some other combo?


Avoid auto OC from BIOS 

Multi to 20 with 200 HT is my setup.
If you don't plan running RAM over 1600 MHz, it's easier just to up multi.
One looses CnQ but K10stat comes to rescue 

Try 705 BIOS as it requires less volts for equal clock.

Nothing wrong with FSB ocing, but haven't done it since I have troubles running 16GB at 8-8-8 1T over 1800 MHz.

Edit:
I've done somewhat interesting SATA/RAID testing ...
Don't have time to write all info now, but long story short:
705 BIOS, RAID 5 and 1 tested.
avoid running SB950 in any kind of RAID mode.
For SSD's AHCI is faster than IDE,
for disks it is slower until AMD AHCI drivers are installed.
JMicron controller runs faster without drivers installed.


----------



## moya36

hello folk, I was wondering if someone could help me I think i have a overheating problem with my rig.


----------



## Solders18

what are your temps?
clocks?
cpu cooling?
case ventalation?


----------



## ZOXZX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adolf512*
> 
> i am deciding between ga-990fxa-ud3 and asus sabertooth 990fx, i have a phenom II 965 c3 cpu currently clocked at 4ghz @1.525V and i am looking for a replacement-board for my ga-790xta-ud4 board. i am looking for a better oc, sli support without modded drivers(good to have in the future), more pci express slots, support for piledriver(it might be good, who knows), etc
> i am note a huge fan over the layout pci-e layout that these boards uses but i can live with that. i like the all black design ud3 uses and i actually prefer the old school bios layout gigabyte uses. the gigabyte board is also slightly cheaper.
> most motherboards seams to has internal serial port(even if the specs at a Swedish store told otherwise). since my current motherboard has a broken fan header i might get the new board for just the price difference compared to the old.


Well, I've used 790XTA-UD4P board before and I really liked it. Had a X2 550 unlocked to X4 and 1090T running.
The board doesn't have such fine voltage adjustment like Sabertooth, but voltage doesn't fluctuate.

All in all, I'm pleased with new board.
Has some quirks, but BIOS options, fan headers, SATA performance, BD/PD support (hopefully). etc make up for it 

Had two ASUS boards before: P6T Deluxe and MA79T Deluxe.
Both died the same way with same symptoms and I've told myself: "Asus never again".
Yet here I am ...


----------



## adolf512

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZOXZX*
> 
> Well, I've used 790XTA-UD4P board before and I really liked it. Had a X2 550 unlocked to X4 and 1090T running.
> The board doesn't have such fine voltage adjustment like Sabertooth, but voltage doesn't fluctuate.
> All in all, I'm pleased with new board.
> Has some quirks, but BIOS options, fan headers, SATA performance, BD/PD support (hopefully). etc make up for it
> Had two ASUS boards before: P6T Deluxe and MA79T Deluxe.
> Both died the same way with same symptoms and I've told myself: "Asus never again".
> Yet here I am ...


it's seams that ga-990fxa-ud3 is a more reliable board than asus sabertooth after reading reviews on newegg and amazon etc. still asus sabertooth seams to work for most people. i am currently 70% sure ill get the ud3 but i think i will try to get rev 1.1 or 1.2 since 1.0 lacks llc adjustment.

it doesn't seams to exict a really good am3+ board currently but i am happy if it works fine and overclocks better than my current board. i can live without quad sli/cf in 8x speed of 50mhz migher oc, and since the future of am3+ is unsure i don't wan't to spend to much money on a am3+ board unless i really get value for it.


----------



## racer86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adolf512*
> 
> it's seams that ga-990fxa-ud3 is a more reliable board than asus sabertooth after reading reviews on newegg and amazon etc. still asus sabertooth seams to work for most people. i am currently 70% sure ill get the ud3 but i think i will try to get rev 1.1 or 1.2 since 1.0 lacks llc adjustment.
> it doesn't seams to exict a really good am3+ board currently but i am happy if it works fine and overclocks better than my current board. i can live without quad sli/cf in 8x speed of 50mhz migher oc, and since the future of am3+ is unsure i don't wan't to spend to much money on a am3+ board unless i really get value for it.


just a fyi the sabertooth in testing runs on par with the UD7 and GD80 boards
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/sabertooth-990fx-990fxa-ud7-990fxa-gd80,3068-17.html


----------



## moya36

hello solders18,

XIGMATEK Gaia SD1283 120mm Long Life Bearing
SABERTOOTH 990FX
CPU Type OctalCore AMD FX-8150, 4200 MHz (21 x 200)
System Memory 16329 MB (DDR3-1333 DDR3 SDRAM)
DIMM1: G Skill F3-10666CL9-4GBRL
4 GB DDR3-1333 DDR3 SDRAM (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-20 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-17 @ 457 MHz)
Video Adapter AMD Radeon HD 6900 Series (2048 MB)
OS Disk Drive OCZ-AGIL ITY3 SATA Disk Device (SATA-III)
extra drive Disk Drive ST350063 0AS SATA Disk Device (500 GB, 7200 RPM, SATA-II)
idle temp 33c
while playing bf3 50c(coretemps)
Sentey Burton Extreme Division Tower Case 6x Fan LED/ 4 x USB / Multi Card Reader / 4 x Fan Control / E-SATA / 6 x Removable Aluminum Bays / Screwless
power supply OCZ ZT Series 750W Fully-Modular 80PLUS Bronze

prime95 20 mins blend 50c?

I hope i did this correctly


----------



## atomos

HI GUYS!

Could you help me out on this thread fello sabertooth 990fx pplz









http://www.overclock.net/t/1205415/sabertooth-990fx-and-fx-6100-overclock#post_16285522

thx


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moya36*
> 
> hello solders18,
> XIGMATEK Gaia SD1283 120mm Long Life Bearing
> SABERTOOTH 990FX
> CPU Type OctalCore AMD FX-8150, 4200 MHz (21 x 200)
> System Memory 16329 MB (DDR3-1333 DDR3 SDRAM)
> DIMM1: G Skill F3-10666CL9-4GBRL
> 4 GB DDR3-1333 DDR3 SDRAM (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-20 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-17 @ 457 MHz)
> Video Adapter AMD Radeon HD 6900 Series (2048 MB)
> OS Disk Drive OCZ-AGIL ITY3 SATA Disk Device (SATA-III)
> extra drive Disk Drive ST350063 0AS SATA Disk Device (500 GB, 7200 RPM, SATA-II)
> idle temp 33c
> while playing bf3 50c(coretemps)
> Sentey Burton Extreme Division Tower Case 6x Fan LED/ 4 x USB / Multi Card Reader / 4 x Fan Control / E-SATA / 6 x Removable Aluminum Bays / Screwless
> power supply OCZ ZT Series 750W Fully-Modular 80PLUS Bronze
> prime95 20 mins blend 50c?
> I hope i did this correctly


those are perfectly fine temps. the max temp AMD suggests is 61 but its good to keep it below about 55. so you have 5 degrees to spare.


----------



## firestorm1

is anyone by chance using a ocz revo drive 3 with this board? i have an option to get a used one for cheap and want to make sure theres no boot issues or anything.

thanks.


----------



## moya36

I get the same thing. I tried all the things suggested. Its all good though.


----------



## Dimaggio1103

Yea my sabertooth is on its way. Cant wait to start OCing my 960T.


----------



## truckerguy

my sabertooth will here monday Im wondering if will be better then my Corsshair III


----------



## shampoo911

hiya fellas...

im writing in this post for a lot of reasons... first one... im a proud user of a sabertooth 990fx... clearly the BEST mobo i've ever had... infinite potential... aggressive design... cool as ice... etc... etc...

secondly... i was trying to flash the bios... just to keep my mobo up to date, just in case i buy a BD... Bios flashed and stuff.. PC reboot... and nothing showed up.. just a lot of beeps... it was a combination of low frequency short and long beeps with high frequency short and long beeps.. i will make it short and try to abbreviate all of them like this (so you can try to help me):

low frequency long beep: lb
low frequency short beep: sb
high frequency long beep: LB
high frequency short beep: SB

here it goes:

lb-sb-sb-sb-LB-SB-SB-SB-lb-sb-sb-sb-sb

pretty odd...

i ASSUME that i just bricked my mobo... tested EVERY COMPONENT on another board.. and no problems at all... so i think i just screwed up the bios...

i ordered a new one http://www.ebay.com/itm/BIOS-CHIP-ASUS-Sabertooth-990FX-/380378933951

im waiting for it to arrive... i wonder if i can make a hot-swap flash with it... just to have 2 bios chips in case i screw one up... if the answer is positive, please guide me... if negative... then i shall have only one...

ok so here is my validcard http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2094408

next: im waiting for the arrival of my Corsair Force GT 120gb ssd.. does the 990fx has any problems regarding ssd's?? i just want to push that little baby to the edge and achieve te 550mb/515mb read-write speeds..

and another question... can my sabertooth handle a pair of Gskill 8gb 1866mhz??


----------



## Citra

My vertex 3 reaches the 500+ mb it should run at.

Sent from my HTC EVO 3D X515a


----------



## drizek

With Bulldozer a failure and Piledriver not coming before 2013, what CPU would you guys recommend getting to replace my 720BE? I want something that doesn't cost too much more than $100.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drizek*
> 
> With Bulldozer a failure and Piledriver not coming before 2013, what CPU would you guys recommend getting to replace my 720BE? I want something that doesn't cost too much more than $100.


The 960t. Then unlock it.


----------



## drizek

They don't all unlock though. A quad core 960t wouldn't be a real upgrade for me. It would give me 10-15% more clockspeed and one more core, but that's about it.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drizek*
> 
> They don't all unlock though. A quad core 960t wouldn't be a real upgrade for me. It would give me 10-15% more clockspeed and one more core, but that's about it.


They mostly unlock all six cores so I guess it till remains an option.

Honestly for $100 you can't do much for CPU. You could buy a better cooler though and overclock higher. Not sure what you have though since I am on mobile.


----------



## sweffymo

I replaced my 955BE with a 960T BE and I am very satisfied with my purchase. For $100 there isn't anything else to do.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drizek*
> 
> They don't all unlock though. A quad core 960t wouldn't be a real upgrade for me. It would give me 10-15% more clockspeed and one more core, but that's about it.


You also get the beasty E0 stepping IMC for 3 Ghz NB oc's
The unlock rate for a 960t is about 35%


----------



## truckerguy

my sabetooth will be here monday and Im planing on putting my 1090T in it from sig rig but as for ram Im not sure other then Im not going to use the ram from my sig rig also Im getting a new sdd drive for a fresh install of os I have a old 555 Im going to install on my present sig rig mobo and sell it with the ram on it and and my present ssd along with my crossfire gpu's and the funds from the sell will be used to buy new ram and ssd and gpu. Im looking for sugestions from you all on my what to go with


----------



## Belander87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> my sabetooth will be here monday and Im planing on putting my 1090T in it from sig rig but as for ram Im not sure other then Im not going to use the ram from my sig rig also Im getting a new sdd drive for a fresh install of os I have a old 555 Im going to install on my present sig rig mobo and sell it with the ram on it and and my present ssd along with my crossfire gpu's and the funds from the sell will be used to buy new ram and ssd and gpu. Im looking for sugestions from you all on my what to go with


Well, I know the Corsair vengeance 1600Mhz ram is highly liked. Just have to set it up in the bios to run at 1600 at install. Simple, decent price and they have there own cool heat spreaders. SSD, I have only owned 1 so far and I am absolutely in love with it. Crucial M4 series. Solid, reliable, FAST and not to over priced. GPU, MSI 6950 twin frezor 3 2G card or a XFX 6970 2G Rev. 1.2 card are pretty solid bets in my book. Sapphire makes some pretty solid cards as well.

That's just me though, and I am still catching up with hardware


----------



## almstsobur

Maybe this has been discussed, but has anyone else noticed the very alarming voltage selection after using MEM-OK? I've tried to tweak memory timings a bit to tight a few times and had to use the MeM okay button, when the system boots it says "CPU over-volt" and in the BIOS is just set my $260 8150 CPU to 1.63 Volts! I've had this happen every time I've had to use this button. I can tell it's real voltage as well because my PWM Fan's begin to speed up immediately, normally this only happens under considerable load in P95, not while in the BIOS. It sets 1333 Dram, 3600 clock and just a WAY stupid over-volt.

anyone else notice this or have it happen to them?


----------



## Citra

Asus fail.


----------



## Solders18




----------



## truckerguy

add me


----------



## truckerguy

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2237776


----------



## Tweeky

*Announcement:*
Turns out that the ASUS Crosshair 5 Formula club happens to need a new owner. Tweeky has asked me (*pioneerisloud*) to find a replacement as he would like to retire from this club. If anybody would like to take ownership of this club, and keep it updated daily, please shoot me (*pioneerisloud*) a PM with the title "Crosshair V Application", and tell me why we should pick you as the replacement.

Thanks,
~pio

*pioneerisloud *http://www.overclock.net/u/41518/pioneerisloud


----------



## skline00

Lucky I snagged an 1100T from Newegg when they had them. This Sabertooth mb is a rock solid foundation. Mine runs at 3952 (19x208). I've thrown tons of diagnostic tests to it and passed them all. I just changed from a Zalman 9900 LED HS to a CM Hyper 212 EVO with 2 fans for P/P and it runs much cooler. (47-48C max after long runs of prime 95).


----------



## truckerguy

yes Im happy with it this is what Ive come up with so far


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> 
> 
> Asus fail.


LOL never noticed that before

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk


----------



## THC Butterz

Hay all, as you probably noticed I haven't been on here very much as of late, because my computer is across state lines and I don't have the funds to get it home right now, so I'm looking for someone who's been around the thread for a while, to help maintain the spreadsheet in the op, any volunteers please shoot me a pm and then we'll go from there, I'm not gone but because I don't have my computer here I could really use some help, thank you

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk


----------



## EliteGhost

Add me please

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2239531

Also is anyone else having trouble controlling their case fans. If I try to control them, they will just run at 700rpm. So right now all of my fans are running at max.


----------



## truckerguy

have you down loaded the AI suite software?


----------



## EliteGhost

No I have been controlling them in bios. But I will give the suite a try. Is the asus suite any good, last time I tried it with my p5n-d it seemed like bloatware.


----------



## truckerguy

its good on this board as it has radar and you can setup your owen fan profile


----------



## phillyd

just bought this board! can you guys give me a detailed rundown of the features? i hear theres a LOT with this board. (havent received it yet)


----------



## truckerguy

watch this vidio it will tell you alot

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IT7YSsEFqTk&feature=player_embedded


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> watch this vidio it will tell you alot
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IT7YSsEFqTk&feature=player_embedded


already watched the newegg and asus guide, very helpful, but i need more explanation on the pci-e connectors
can i use the top and bottom for 2 pciex16? id like the most room for airflow.


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> already watched the newegg and asus guide, very helpful, but i need more explanation on the pci-e connectors
> can i use the top and bottom for 2 pciex16? id like the most room for airflow.


I think you have to use the first and third pci-e slots for 16x x2. not positive though. from looking at the spec sheet.

3 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (dual x16 or x16, x8, x8) *1
1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (x4 mode, black)

*1: When running dual graphics cards, be sure to insert the card in the first and third PCIex16 slot to get the best performance.


----------



## phillyd

So like this

----x16
----x8
----x16
----x8
??


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> So like this
> ----x16
> ----x8
> ----x16
> ----x8
> ??


I think its like this. I may be wrong, some one feel free to correct me if so.

Slots are capable of running

----x16
----x8
----x16
----x16

running 2 gfx cards
----x16--gfx
----x8 empty slot or some other pci-e device
----x16--gfx
----x16 empty slot or some other pci-e device

running tri sli
----x16---gfx
----x8 empty slot or some other pci-e device
----x8---gfx
----x8---gfx

running quad sli
----8---gfx
----8---gfx
----8---gfx
----8---gfx


----------



## racer86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> I think its like this. I may be wrong, some one feel free to correct me if so.
> Slots are capable of running
> ----x16
> ----x8
> ----x16
> ----x16
> running 2 gfx cards
> ----x16--gfx
> ----x8 empty slot or some other pci-e device
> ----x16--gfx
> ----x16 empty slot or some other pci-e device
> running tri sli
> ----x16---gfx
> ----x8 empty slot or some other pci-e device
> ----x8---gfx
> ----x8---gfx
> running quad sli
> ----8---gfx
> ----8---gfx
> ----8---gfx
> ----8---gfx


thats not entirely correct from what i understand the black pci-e slot in the middle will ALWAYS run at x4 mode no matter the configuration

the sabertooth is not a quad sli or crossfire board the slot layout wont allow it i believe its tri sli with the middle pci-e being used for a add on card


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *racer86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> I think its like this. I may be wrong, some one feel free to correct me if so.
> Slots are capable of running
> ----x16
> ----x8
> ----x16
> ----x16
> running 2 gfx cards
> ----x16--gfx
> ----x8 empty slot or some other pci-e device
> ----x16--gfx
> ----x16 empty slot or some other pci-e device
> running tri sli
> ----x16---gfx
> ----x8 empty slot or some other pci-e device
> ----x8---gfx
> ----x8---gfx
> running quad sli
> ----8---gfx
> ----8---gfx
> ----8---gfx
> ----8---gfx
> 
> 
> 
> thats not entirely correct from what i understand the black pci-e slot in the middle will ALWAYS run at x4 mode no matter the configuration
> 
> the sabertooth is not a quad sli or crossfire board the slot layout wont allow it i believe its tri sli with the middle pci-e being used for a add on card
Click to expand...

you can definitely quad sli/fire, but youd have to wc or use low profile cards
what id want to do is this:
this would probably give me good temps
btw those are on slots 1 and 4, theoretically


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *racer86*
> 
> thats not entirely correct from what i understand the black pci-e slot in the middle will ALWAYS run at x4 mode no matter the configuration
> the sabertooth is not a quad sli or crossfire board the slot layout wont allow it i believe its tri sli with the middle pci-e being used for a add on card


From the Sabertooth 990fx spec page
Quad-GPU SLI and Quad-GPU CrossFireX Support!

[ATI crossFireX] [NVIDIA SLI Ready] Flexible Multi-GPU solutions, Your Weapon of Choice!
SABERTOOTH 990FX brings multi-GPU configurations through both SLI™ and CrossFireX. This motherboard features the powerful AMD® 990FX/SB950 platform, optimizing PCIe allocation in multiple GPU configurations. Expect a brand new gaming style like you've never experienced before!

Asus Sabertooth 990FX

would be nice if they did show exactly what slots did what.
only thing I know for sure is 1 and 3 run x16 in dual GPU set up


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> From the Sabertooth 990fx spec page
> Quad-GPU SLI and Quad-GPU CrossFireX Support!
> [ATI crossFireX] [NVIDIA SLI Ready] Flexible Multi-GPU solutions, Your Weapon of Choice!
> SABERTOOTH 990FX brings multi-GPU configurations through both SLI™ and CrossFireX. This motherboard features the powerful AMD® 990FX/SB950 platform, optimizing PCIe allocation in multiple GPU configurations. Expect a brand new gaming style like you've never experienced before!
> Asus Sabertooth 990FX
> would be nice if they did show exactly what slots did what.
> only thing I know for sure is 1 and 3 run x16 in dual GPU set up


That's with a 590/6990.


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> That's with a 590/6990.


ok, so only way the board will do quad is to sli dual core cards.


----------



## racer86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> ok, so only way the board will do quad is to sli dual core cards.


correct manufactures like to toute quad sli support but fail to mention you have to have a dual gpu card to do it lol

they tell you exactly what pci-e slots do what

here is the lay out

*no cards installed*
slot 1 runs x16
slot 2 runs x4
slot 3 runs x 16
slot 4 runs x16

*dual sli/crossfire*
slot 1 x16 with a card in it
slot 2 x4 no card
slot 3 x16 with a card in it
slot 4 x16 no card

*tri sli/ crossfire*
slot 1 x16 with a card in it
slot 2 x4 no card
slots 3-4 run x8 with a card in each one

they board has to split the bandwith of the last two slots because it cannot provide enough pci-e lanes to run full x16 bandwidth to 3 cards and slot 4 will never run more than x4


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *racer86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> ok, so only way the board will do quad is to sli dual core cards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> correct manufactures like to toute quad sli support but fail to mention you have to have a dual gpu card to do it lol
> 
> they tell you exactly what pci-e slots do what
> 
> here is the lay out
> 
> *no cards installed*
> slot 1 runs x16
> slot 2 runs x4
> slot 3 runs x 16
> slot 4 runs x16
> 
> *dual sli/crossfire*
> slot 1 x16 with a card in it
> slot 2 x4 no card
> slot 3 x16 with a card in it
> slot 4 x16 no card
> 
> *tri sli/ crossfire*
> slot 1 x16 with a card in it
> slot 2 x4 no card
> slots 3-4 run x8 with a card in each one
> 
> they board has to split the bandwith of the last two slots because it cannot provide enough pci-e lanes to run full x16 bandwidth to 3 cards and slot 4 will never run more than x4
Click to expand...

how would this affect performance out of the other cards?


----------



## racer86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> how would this affect performance out of the other cards?


basicly not at all the difference between x8 and x16 is almost non existent i would bet you couldnt notice the difference at all if you wernt running an FPS meter i mean were prolly talking 1-4 fps total difference MAX


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *racer86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> how would this affect performance out of the other cards?
> 
> 
> 
> basicly not at all the difference between x8 and x16 is almost non existent i would bet you couldnt notice the difference at all if you wernt running an FPS meter i mean were prolly talking 1-4 fps total difference MAX
Click to expand...

and if ur tri firing basically any dx11 card youll be fine


----------



## racer86

ya if your running trifire and actually taking that bandwidth hit you wont notice the difference at all unless your benching lol even then it wont be much


----------



## phillyd

just curious mainly, because it wouldnt make sense to add 2 cards to a system if cutting the bandwidth in half halved the performance


----------



## racer86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> just curious mainly, because it wouldnt make sense to add 2 cards to a system if cutting the bandwidth in half halved the performance


ya it would be ******ed to support tri sli/ crossfire if you halved the performance lol its so minimal you wouldnt even be able to tell lol


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *racer86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> just curious mainly, because it wouldnt make sense to add 2 cards to a system if cutting the bandwidth in half halved the performance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ya it would be ******ed to support tri sli/ crossfire if you halved the performance lol its so minimal you wouldnt even be able to tell lol
Click to expand...

i was like 99% that x16 was way more than needed per card, but i wanted to be sure









hows the sound card on board?


----------



## racer86

I havent really tested it alot but it seems ok for an onboard sound although ill be honest im partially deaf in one ear lol it seems to drive my headphones just fine


----------



## phillyd

how does the greenish color look? i found it slightly odd (wish it was all black/brown/gold


----------



## racer86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> how does the greenish color look? i found it slightly odd (wish it was all black/brown/gold


I would have prefered all black but honestly its not that bad plus the multitude of bios options makes up for it


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *racer86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> how does the greenish color look? i found it slightly odd (wish it was all black/brown/gold
> 
> 
> 
> I would have prefered all black but honestly its not that bad plus the multitude of bios options makes up for it
Click to expand...

holy crap the bios shots ive seen are crazy


----------



## truckerguy

yes they give you alot of options


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> yes they give you alot of options


you shud put ur rig(s) in the rig builder


----------



## truckerguy

yes I need to update that Ive been busy tweking and boxing Im about to move


----------



## truckerguy

ok its done


----------



## DevilDriver

I actually like the color scheme of the board, and it goes with the whole military theme they have going for it.
On board sound works fine for my current 2.1 set up.
UEFI Has a tone of features. I love this board and would highly recommend it to any one going AM3+


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> ok its done


go to your page, then click to edit your sig, and choose to show off your rig


----------



## truckerguy

the only person Id not recomend it to is on a budget build


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> the only person Id not recomend it to is on a budget build


That is true at just shy of $200, but you can find it on sale from time to time for around $150


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> the only person Id not recomend it to is on a budget build


im on a budget, but not that much lol.
its really not outrageously expensive.
i mean you can get a solid am3 board for $75 or less, but still, there are $300+ boards


----------



## truckerguy

well becase Im on a budject is why I bought this board I want to be ready for when the 10 core piledriver drops


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> well becase Im on a budject is why I bought this board I want to be ready for when the 10 core piledriver drops


same here








cannot wait!


----------



## ZOXZX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> well becase Im on a budject is why I bought this board I want to be ready for when the 10 core piledriver drops


Heh, when I saw PD is AM3+ , decided to migrate from AM3 but as things stand now, no decacore with PD.
Still, Trinity looks good







so there is hope ahead ...


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZOXZX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> well becase Im on a budject is why I bought this board I want to be ready for when the 10 core piledriver drops
> 
> 
> 
> Heh, when I saw PD is AM3+ , decided to migrate from AM3 but as things stand now, no decacore with PD.
> Still, Trinity looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so there is hope ahead ...
Click to expand...

wat?


----------



## ZOXZX

10 core chips are cancelled, but looks like PD architecture is doing fine ...


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZOXZX*
> 
> 10 core chips are cancelled, but looks like PD architecture is doing fine ...


source? (id like to read into it)
id rather have six more efficient cores than 10 bd cores


----------



## Tweeky

*Announcement:*
Turns out that the ASUS Crosshair 5 Formula club happens to need a new owner. Tweeky has asked me (*pioneerisloud*) to find a replacement as he would like to retire from this club. If anybody would like to take ownership of this club, and keep it updated daily, please shoot me (*pioneerisloud*) a PM with the title "Crosshair V Application", and tell me why we should pick you as the replacement.

Thanks,
~pio

*pioneerisloud *http://www.overclock.net/u/41518/pioneerisloud

Not much time left


----------



## ZOXZX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> source? (id like to read into it)
> id rather have six more efficient cores than 10 bd cores


Randomly picked:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/5503/understanding-amds-roadmap-new-direction/2

Lots of sites were reporting that AMD dropped 10M/20C Opteron (hence desktop as well) well before Financial Analyst Day.

John Fruehe from AMD wrote that PD is efficient enough compared to BD that additional cores were dropped.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZOXZX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> source? (id like to read into it)
> id rather have six more efficient cores than 10 bd cores
> 
> 
> 
> Randomly picked:
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/5503/understanding-amds-roadmap-new-direction/2
> 
> Lots of sites were reporting that AMD dropped 10M/20C Opteron (hence desktop as well) well before Financial Analyst Day.
> 
> John Fruehe from AMD wrote that PD is efficient enough compared to BD that additional cores were dropped.
Click to expand...

if its true, then ill be buying an 8 core near release.


----------



## Balboa

dvd burner from 1of10 computers I own=free
seagate sata6 500gb from 1of10 computers I own=free
thermaltake v3 case=45
ultra lsp650 pwr supply=65
corsair 8gb vengeance=59
msi radeon 6450=50
coolermaster n520=40
win7=100
amd fx4100=120
sabertooth 990fx=175
4hour build=sweat
bootup 1st try=priceless


----------



## Captain Nemo

Amen to that DaKid!!!

I recently had a similar experience, but unfortunately I missed a 12v connector on the MB and it was a "boots on second try, Priceless." moment.


----------



## phillyd

just got my sabertooth 990FX and im looking for a 960T or 125W Thuban 6-Core. anyone have one to sell?


----------



## racer86

you can get a 1045t on newegg for like $140 right now


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *racer86*
> 
> you can get a 1045t on newegg for like $140 right now


its a 95W
id rather have the 960T and its $25 cheaper


----------



## Balboa

this MB is amazing, so simple and powerful, fx4100 doing this and have not gone into advanced yet, not to mention upgade da bios from windows7:thumb:


----------



## Balboa

just ran pcmark7=2336
http://3dmark.com/pcm7/275179


----------



## Walking Dude

to join I need a verification post.....what IS that?


----------



## truckerguy

do you have cpuz?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walking Dude*
> 
> to join I need a verification post.....what IS that?


get CPU-z here

then run it, click validate at the bottom, under the name, (ur pc name will be there) type ur ocn name
then enter ur email
take the link it emails you and post it here


----------



## moparbob7

Hey everybody I am about to buy the Sabertooth and I have a question. I currently have the AMD Phenom II X4 965 with a MSI motherboard. I was wondering if my Corsair H50 Water Cooling system will work with the AM3+ boards. The MSI board is a AM3.

Thanks,
Bob


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moparbob7*
> 
> Hey everybody I am about to buy the Sabertooth and I have a question. I currently have the AMD Phenom II X4 965 with a MSI motherboard. I was wondering if my Corsair H50 Water Cooling system will work with the AM3+ boards. The MSI board is a AM3.
> 
> Thanks,
> Bob


the mounting is identical to the am2, am2+ and am3.
i have my h100 currently on an am3+ board


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *moparbob7*
> 
> Hey everybody I am about to buy the Sabertooth and I have a question. I currently have the AMD Phenom II X4 965 with a MSI motherboard. I was wondering if my Corsair H50 Water Cooling system will work with the AM3+ boards. The MSI board is a AM3.
> 
> Thanks,
> Bob
> 
> 
> 
> the mounting is identical to the am2, am2+ and am3.
> i have my h100 currently on an am3+ board
Click to expand...

This^

Sent from my iPod touch 4 using Tapatalk


----------



## Gamergeekv2

Hi Nooby McNooberson here.

I bought the 990FX and Geil Black Dragon 32GB (4x8GB) DDR3 1333 memory. I have found that I can only boot with one stick. After looking it up I have found the issues with this motherboard and maxing out at 32GB Ram. My question on this are as follows:

1) Is the compatibility issue whats causing my Problem?
2) If yes, will updating to 0901 BiOS help.
3) If no, any ideas on what I can do to fix it.

Thanks!


----------



## Speedy-j

Install all your rams on the board and press powerbutton ,afther that you can try de memory OK button near the memory slots.
I have 4x2GB geil black dragon installed on my board without any issues.


----------



## truckerguy

Gamer geak what cpu are you using?


----------



## Arcalys

Here is mine :



By the way, is there any guide to get started with that board ? I mean, there are so many features and stuff everywhere. I'd like to get that processor at his normal 3.6 Ghz before trying anything, but it seems to be automatically settled for now.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gamergeekv2*
> 
> Hi Nooby McNooberson here.
> I bought the 990FX and Geil Black Dragon 32GB (4x8GB) DDR3 1333 memory. I have found that I can only boot with one stick. After looking it up I have found the issues with this motherboard and maxing out at 32GB Ram. My question on this are as follows:
> 1) Is the compatibility issue whats causing my Problem?
> 2) If yes, will updating to 0901 BiOS help.
> 3) If no, any ideas on what I can do to fix it.
> Thanks!


Quite possible, I could not run stock settings with my RAM on the default bios. If it still doesn't work, use the mem ok button.


----------



## Gamergeekv2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> Gamer geak what cpu are you using?


I am using The AMD Zambezi 8 core 3.1 GHZ
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedy-j*
> 
> Install all your rams on the board and press powerbutton ,afther that you can try de memory OK button near the memory slots.
> I have 4x2GB geil black dragon installed on my board without any issues.


This may be a dumb question but what does the MemOK button do?


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gamergeekv2*
> 
> I am using The AMD Zambezi 8 core 3.1 GHZ
> This may be a dumb question but what does the MemOK button do?


"MemOK! quickly ensures memory boot compatibility. This remarkable memory rescue tool requires a mere push of a button to patch memory issues. MemOK! determines failsafe settings and dramatically improves your system boot success. Get your system up and running in no time!"

Straight from Asus. Basically allows you to boot up with incompatible ram.


----------



## Gamergeekv2

That. Is. Awesome. Would i have to do that every time I boot. Or is one time good to go?


----------



## Citra

Once IIRC.


----------



## Gamergeekv2

I am trying this when I get home. If this works I will love all of you guys forever. In a completely heterosexual way that is.


----------



## lilkuz2005

ive been a little busy the past month or so, ive upgraded my CM storm scout mid tower case to the CM HAF 932 advanced blue edition and my overall temps have lowered, im about to get a samsung sata III 128gb SSD and a XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 cooling system for my 1100T, i hope to get at least 4.5ghz stable with good temps, ive got BF3 now and its running great on my sig rig, im averaging 80 fps, mix of ultra and high settings, no AA, overall im very happy with the performance. and i have my 2 sapphire radeon HD 6870's installed on the 1st and 3rd PCI-e 2.0 slots, looks good and stays cool. the CM HAF 932 came with a graphics card fan shroud that i cant use on my non reference cards, but over all im relaly happy with the case, looks pretty nice, i will update pics when im finished with the rest of my upgrades


----------



## Citra

OT: I like how your sig rig rhymes. Lol.


----------



## phillyd

having problems
received it and installed with the phenom ii 925
BSOD after the windows flag loads up
i chose to do start-up repair...
waiting...


----------



## truckerguy

you will proply have to do a fresh install your going from a Gigabythe mobo to a Asus


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> you will proply have to do a fresh install your going from a Gigabythe mobo to a Asus


never needed to before.
and thats a RIDICULOUS task
as i have over 100 Gigs in games
and TONS of files


----------



## truckerguy

I know I felt the same way but Ive run into this alot


----------



## Balboa

just install win7 again, don't erase anything
PS remember to backup 1st
it's got do to with all the specific drivers each MB vender uses
someone at work got his laptop copy to work on a desktop, but real buggy
consider it a wash and detail job


----------



## truckerguy

I used it as a excuse to get a ssd,,,lol


----------



## Gamergeekv2

Tried the MemOK button but it still won't boot with even just two sticks. Any other suggestions other than updating BiOS which still may or may not fix my issue?


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> you will proply have to do a fresh install your going from a Gigabythe mobo to a Asus


i even had to do a fresh install going from a M4A89GTD PRO/USB3 to this board


----------



## Dimaggio1103

960T FTW........that is all.


----------



## phillyd

i literally have hundreds of hours into the mods and various things, i now can get it to boot, but i have to reset the cmos each time

btw check my build log
and in i guess


----------



## ZeroMe

Hi all, I am having the same issue as phillyd where all setting are Prime95 stable but reboots are OK but when I cold boot system will just hang at startup and have to hold power button till its turned off. Once it boots into the "your overclock is not stable" message i just F1 to go to bios but just select "Discard changes" and reboot and all is well. I have the 960T at (18x200) 3.6 @ 1.3v and memory set at 1333 but set NB Freq to 2800 @ 1.2125V. Bios is 0813 thinking maybe a newer or older bios will help? anyone else having the same issues?


----------



## truckerguy

the best way is to have a fresh inatall on eather a ssd or hdd that holds only your os and ati virus make the old hdd F drive and wipe the os off it


----------



## reaperUK

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MB-460-AS
hey guys, just seen this offer but its only in the UK but nevertheless its a bargain


----------



## Mistral

I think you will find it's the CPU/NB speed that's hanging the system, that voltage looks too low for 2800Mhz try a speed of 2600Mhz and see if it still does it , if it doesn't increase the voltage for 2800Mhz.


----------



## coreupted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaperUK*
> 
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MB-460-AS
> hey guys, just seen this offer but its only in the UK but nevertheless its a bargain


If you go to ariapc it cost £122 it cost me £120 but has went up


----------



## TitusPrime

Regular price at Scan: http://www.scan.co.uk/products/asus-sabertooth-990fx-amd-990fx-s-am3plus-ddr3-sata-iii-6gb-s-raid-sata-pcie-20-%28x16%29-atx

Watch out for their 'Today Only'.....i got my Sabertooth for £114.99 just last week.


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TitusPrime*
> 
> Regular price at Scan: http://www.scan.co.uk/products/asus-sabertooth-990fx-amd-990fx-s-am3plus-ddr3-sata-iii-6gb-s-raid-sata-pcie-20-%28x16%29-atx
> Watch out for their 'Today Only'.....i got my Sabertooth for £114.99 just last week.


seems like a normal price to me.
UK£ 122.39 = 193.388439 U.S. dollars.
Fry's electronics has it for u.s. $188


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TitusPrime*
> 
> Regular price at Scan: http://www.scan.co.uk/products/asus-sabertooth-990fx-amd-990fx-s-am3plus-ddr3-sata-iii-6gb-s-raid-sata-pcie-20-%28x16%29-atx
> Watch out for their 'Today Only'.....i got my Sabertooth for £114.99 just last week.
> 
> 
> 
> seems like a normal price to me.
> UK£ 122.39 = 193.388439 U.S. dollars.
> Fry's electronics has it for u.s. $188
Click to expand...

tigerdirect, $175


----------



## Big Shabazz

Question: I just recently got some new RAM installed that's rated to 2133 MHz @ 1.65V. The problem I'm encountering with this is when I try to bump the RAM frequency up in BIOS, my comp restarts and I get a distress signal.

I figured out how to manually input the desired voltage, but what I was wondering if there's a way you can go past what the BIOS has already registered for the frequencies (1066,1333,1600). I tried messing with some things, but nothing seems to have worked up to this point. :-(


----------



## moparbob7

Hey Guys just got my new setup today. This motherboard is awesome!!!!! I got the FX-8150... I got it overclocked up to 4400 MHz just by upping the multiplier. I do have a question. Is it ok to overclock a new CPU? Should I break it in first? Also what are some good setting I should try. I am running water cooled.

Thanks,
Bob


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moparbob7*
> 
> Hey Guys just got my new setup today. This motherboard is awesome!!!!! I got the FX-8150... I got it overclocked up to 4400 MHz just by upping the multiplier. I do have a question. Is it ok to overclock a new CPU? Should I break it in first? Also what are some good setting I should try. I am running water cooled.
> Thanks,
> Bob


Your fine, you dont need to break it in, give her hell!









On my 6100 I'm running a mix of fsb and multi. i'd say once you hit the point of instability up the voltage abit. you should be able to get about 4.6Ghz+ out of that thing stable daily usage.

if your on a good water set up you can get an idea from my settings and tweak from there since you are also on a sabertooth.
http://s75.photobucket.com/albums/i299/dragonsdeath/asus/


----------



## Arcalys

Guys, what are the features you disabled before overclocking ? Got a FX 8150 too, and that damn thing is going from 1,4 Ghz to 4,2Ghz without me doing anything...


----------



## Mistral

It's a combination of Cool'n'Quiet and the turbo, you can disable C'n'Q in the Advanced/CPU configuration in the BIOS, or if you have an AMD graphics card, in the control centre in performance or power there is a setting called CPU Power, in there is a slider you can use to adjust the speed of the CPU.


----------



## Arcalys

Thanks, going to try tonight.








In case I would not overclock right away, is it a problem to enable these features? Do they risk damaging something if i use them for weeks, months ?


----------



## moparbob7

Thanks. I have another question. In CPU-z The speed of the CPU go from my current of like 4500 MHz down to 1400 MHz. Is that a power saving thing or a performance thing? Is that normal or is there a setting I can change?

Thanks,
Bob


----------



## Arcalys

I guess your question is the same as mine, check Mistral's answer just above my post


----------



## ej200

here is my sabertooth 990FX


----------



## ej200




----------



## Arcalys

Nice one


----------



## Solders18

what you guys are describing is cool &quiet. it will automatically throttle down the cpu when there is light load and then clock it back up when it needs it. i left mine on to conserve power and reduce heat. i have heard of a lot of overclockers turning all of that stuff off, but i haven't had any issues and pay my power bill so to each his own.


----------



## Arcalys

So basically, we should just turn it off during overclocking (not to mess with stress tests), and once the oc is stable, turn it back on ?
Thanks for the answer


----------



## Mistral

Nice build ej. The stress test won't affect Cool'n'Quiet as the turbo doesn't work when all cores are being stressed. I found a peculiarity earlier with the 8150, I was playing in the BIOS and found if you put the turbo on enabled and set a multiplier ie. x24 then put it on auto the turbo will go to whatever you set the multi at. With the CPU on auto (3.6Ghz) and the turbo multi on x24 the turbo boosts the cores to 4.8Ghz that's an increase of 1.2Ghz, I have had the turbo up to 5.Ghz so far. Has anyone else played with it?


----------



## Solders18

i leave cool and quiet on all the time but turn turbo off. i am running at the edge of my cpu anyways so turbo is just going to push it too far and make it unstable


----------



## moparbob7

Hey guys I am trying to install Asus ai suite II and it will not install. I tried from the DVD and I downloaded from Asus. It will not install. I guess there is a known problem. How do I get it to install?

Thanks,
Bob


----------



## phillyd

did my 830's final OC on this board yesterday, please add me to the spreadsheet because idk how :O


----------



## skline00

ej200: THAT is a "CLASS" setup. If it runs half as fast as it looks you have a Napoleon Dynamite would say a "SWEET" machine.


----------



## crust_cheese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ej200*
> 
> here is my sabertooth 990FX


Sweeeet. Specs?


----------



## TitusPrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> seems like a normal price to me.
> UK£ 122.39 = 193.388439 U.S. dollars.
> Fry's electronics has it for u.s. $188


Remember that you guys have it good in the US when it comes to prices.....the Sabertooth has been around £145 in the UK for a long time and is only just coming down.

I posted in response to the person who linked to the OCUK weekly deal (reaperUK) to point out that OCUK is not cheap even if they are knocking a fiver off.


----------



## navynuke499

just joined. here is mine. looking forward to really getting into over clocking.


----------



## phillyd

heres the cpu-z for the auto OC on my new 8120


----------



## Balboa

just ta boot & peek



At over 1.5v using everything including da kit sink in UEFI and there excellent AI Suite II.
BUT, I only do [email protected] 1.4v norm. Prime stable.


----------



## phillyd

i cant boot my cpu at anything about 4.4 below 1.5v
if i bump it past there i go to 1.525v because it says i overvolt at 1.55
i cant get it to boot consistently either


----------



## IrishV8

are there any water block for this board on the market?


----------



## yching07

Hello guys,

I just bought this motherboard and Im starting to install the drivers and stuff like that, do you guys install or do you guys recommend to install everything from the cd that comes with it?

Do you use the ASUS Suit II?

Im planning to do some overclocking also but Im not sure if I should install this program or just install the drivers and thats it.


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yching07*
> 
> Hello guys,
> I just bought this motherboard and Im starting to install the drivers and stuff like that, do you guys install or do you guys recommend to install everything from the cd that comes with it?
> Do you use the ASUS Suit II?
> Im planning to do some overclocking also but Im not sure if I should install this program or just install the drivers and thats it.


I like the Asus Suite II program as you can overclock well with it and see your various system temperatures. I overclocked my 1100T with the UEFI but you can change the overclocking with the ASUS program if you don't want to run a 24/7 overclock or want to push it for bench marking, or gaming and can underclock as well if you so desire without having to go into the bios. Some of the drivers you have to install off of the disc like USB 3.0 controllers and LAN driver but definitely get the other drivers from the ASUS site as you don't want to be running old drivers. I have my 1100T BE at 4056 MHz right now with the voltage at 1.42 stable. I love this board.


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> just joined. here is mine. looking forward to really getting into over clocking.


Nice rig.







I love the Cosmos II. Here's my build try and find the Sabertooth in there


----------



## navynuke499

this question may have been asked before, but 193 pages are a lot to search through to find it. i have recently over clocked my fx-6100 on my sabertooth to 4200MHz. my cooler keeps the CPU nice and cool at 36c while im running [email protected] but my VCORE gets over 40c. any idea what a safe temp is for this? i don't want to push it too far and burn it up. this temp is as read from AI suite II. i take it this is the mosfet temps? is there a water cooling block for that? sorry for all the questions, im still new to this.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> this question may have been asked before, but 193 pages are a lot to search through to find it. i have recently over clocked my fx-6100 on my sabertooth to 4200MHz. my cooler keeps the CPU nice and cool at 36c while im running [email protected] but my VCORE gets over 40c. any idea what a safe temp is for this? i don't want to push it too far and burn it up. this temp is as read from AI suite II. i take it this is the mosfet temps? is there a water cooling block for that? sorry for all the questions, im still new to this.


the temps are fine, mosfets are made for heat, to a point.


----------



## moparbob7

Hey guys, I just did the hotfixes for the AMD FX and I think it made it sluggish and also I ran Cinebench and it can up as on 4 cores and not 8. Before it came up with 8 cores. I just did a system restore to before I installed the hotfixes and now Cinebench is now saying 8 cores again. Is this normal.

Thanks,
Bob


----------



## Big Shabazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IrishV8*
> 
> are there any water block for this board on the market?


For the CPU and SB only it seems. And I guess the SB water block can obscure the 1st PCI-E x16 slot.

http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/


----------



## yching07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moparbob7*
> 
> Hey guys, I just did the hotfixes for the AMD FX and I think it made it sluggish and also I ran Cinebench and it can up as on 4 cores and not 8. Before it came up with 8 cores. I just did a system restore to before I installed the hotfixes and now Cinebench is now saying 8 cores again. Is this normal.
> Thanks,
> Bob


after the hotfixs you will see 4 cpu and 8 threads, its normal.


----------



## moparbob7

Hey guys, I am overclocking and right now I am at 4.4 GHz and should I disable all the power saving things, like the C1E and the C6 and all them things....lol. I got something strange happening, I can run Prime 95 with 8 threads for 10 mins or more and wont crash but out of the blue when I am just surfing the web and its load the page my pc just freezes up, nothing responds. I have to hit manual power down and restart. That is weird.

Thanks,
Bob


----------



## yching07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moparbob7*
> 
> Hey guys, I am overclocking and right now I am at 4.4 GHz and should I disable all the power saving things, like the C1E and the C6 and all them things....lol. I got something strange happening, I can run Prime 95 with 8 threads for 10 mins or more and wont crash but out of the blue when I am just surfing the web and its load the page my pc just freezes up, nothing responds. I have to hit manual power down and restart. That is weird.
> Thanks,
> Bob


Yes, its better to remove all the power saving features if you are overclocking, and about your funny situation its pretty normal to get a BSOD or get the crash randomly since it looks your system is not stable enough, it could be a bunch of reasons even the memory, running 10mins on prime95 is not enough, the best is to run it for a few hours and try different programs to stress the system stability.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moparbob7*
> 
> Hey guys, I am overclocking and right now I am at 4.4 GHz and should I disable all the power saving things, like the C1E and the C6 and all them things....lol. I got something strange happening, I can run Prime 95 with 8 threads for 10 mins or more and wont crash but out of the blue when I am just surfing the web and its load the page my pc just freezes up, nothing responds. I have to hit manual power down and restart. That is weird.
> Thanks,
> Bob


i used to use prime 95 all the time but i found it would do exactly what you are talking about. it would run prime 95 for hours but then crash on webpages or something simple. i started using intel burn test. after i started with it, it would either crash running that or be fine all the time. since switching to IBT i don't think i have ever had it BSOD after running it. just watch out though cause it does make alot more heat than even the in-place large FFT's. with prime i would only hit 55 or 56 but IBT i am touching 62 or even 63 and worrying about getting too hot.







Just my 2 cents though. its all preference


----------



## truckerguy

I found the same thing as Solders18 and I only run IBT


----------



## Big Shabazz

It might have something to do with the memory perhaps. I just recently got a new kit and messed with the frequencies and timings. I stress tested in ITB and everything came out stable, then when I went to go load up a game it froze on me and I had to manually restart. Never had the issue before as I'm using same CPU and everything else that I've had since I got the board.


----------



## phillyd

the ram i have, kingston hyperX, is some of the most suggested ram on the market.
but i cant seem to overclock it at all.
any idea why?


----------



## racer86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> the ram i have, kingston hyperX, is some of the most suggested ram on the market.
> but i cant seem to overclock it at all.
> any idea why?


what kit do you have? what are the timings voltage and speed?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *racer86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> the ram i have, kingston hyperX, is some of the most suggested ram on the market.
> but i cant seem to overclock it at all.
> any idea why?
> 
> 
> 
> what kit do you have? what are the timings voltage and speed?
Click to expand...

It's in the sig but its 1600mhz, 9-9-9-24, Kingston HyperX Blu, 2x2gb and 1x4gb


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> It's in the sig but its 1600mhz, 9-9-9-24, Kingston HyperX Blu, 2x2gb and 1x4gb


your running 3 sticks/dimms?
that might be a problem-maybe.

-dimwit-


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> It's in the sig but its 1600mhz, 9-9-9-24, Kingston HyperX Blu, 2x2gb and 1x4gb
> 
> 
> 
> your running 3 sticks/dimms?
> that might be a problem-maybe.
> 
> -dimwit-
Click to expand...

It shouldn't be.


----------



## yching07

Hey, guys do you know if Asus is coming up with another bios update anytime soon? I know that they were planning on releasing a bios update on the m5a87 boards in the upcoming week, the Crossfire V is already on his v10 and we are still on v09 from December, anyone knows of have any info for our bios for the sabertooth?


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> It shouldn't be.


Have you just tried your 2 matching dimms?

-dimwit


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> It shouldn't be.
> 
> 
> 
> Have you just tried your 2 matching dimms?
> 
> -dimwit
Click to expand...

yes i have


----------



## Heidi

My chasis fans not working...does anyone else has that problem? Mobo faulty or? Acutally, only CHA_FAN3 isn't working, all other does...any clues?


----------



## xProxius

Add me up waiting to test this beast out unfortunately my rad borked so im waiting on my new one Lol.









Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk


----------



## truckerguy

looks awsome







when you have it up and going you can add yourself with a cpuZ go to the frist page thier is a link the thread started is off line for a while


----------



## ChocoThunder

Hey guys, just got my setup a couple weeks ago. I manged to get a hold of the *military green vengeance ram* and I noticed not many people have been using this combo. It looks amazing.

Here is a video if you wanna see how nice the Sabertooth looks with this Corsair ram.


----------



## DevilDriver

Nice set up ChocoThunder


----------



## basicman

Hello guys,

Do you know if the JMicron® JMB362 controller is support RAID0 for the two SATA port ?


----------



## truckerguy

good job ChocoThunder


----------



## xProxius

Got it up an going today









Validated by CPU-Z 1.59


----------



## truckerguy

awsome job Xaphan187 rep +


----------



## Kieran

Which RAM would you guys recommend for use with this board?

I'm currently looking at this set - http://www.dabs.com/products/corsair-vengeance-8gb--2x4gb--ddr3-1600mhz-cl9-xmp-79V4.html?src=2

I'm seriously considering this board along with a 64GB Crucial M4, some new RAM and 2 Sapphire 6950's Dirt 3 Edition.


----------



## truckerguy

that ram will work and you have a nice rig


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kieran*
> 
> Which RAM would you guys recommend for use with this board?
> 
> I'm currently looking at this set - http://www.dabs.com/products/corsair-vengeance-8gb--2x4gb--ddr3-1600mhz-cl9-xmp-79V4.html?src=2
> 
> I'm seriously considering this board along with a 64GB Crucial M4, some new RAM and 2 Sapphire 6950's Dirt 3 Edition.


those 6950's are great cards, theyll unlock with no flash
so have a nice quad-slot quad fan 6990 for ya


----------



## predcon

I can't seem to do a damn thing with my brand new Sabertooth except crash it. I've got 16GB of RAM rated at 1600MHz, and an FX-8150 BE chip, but I keep getting blue-screened at the Windows (7) loading screen (the part where the swirly bits form the Windows flag). It doesn't help that the blue screens don't stay up long enough for me to read them. I can, on every other attempt, get the Windows Diagnostic Toolset to load up from the installation disc, and I've run startup repair and a RAM check (which came up clean), but that didn't change anything (in fact, it took several tries just to get through a successful test before my system crashed and reset). I've also tried underclocking everything a little bit, and I've disabled all the Soread Spectrum options. Is there a way ti completely shut off all OC and "autotune" settings for the purposes of stability while performing diagnostics? Or does anyone know right away what the problem is?

I suppose I should also mention that the hard drive that has Windows installed on it is being moved from an older hardware set (Phenom II 965 set in an MSI 790FX). I didn't think it would be a problem, and that I would just have to pop in the driver disc for the motherboard the same way I would for a new video card or whatever.


----------



## phillyd

i have similar problems
i suck at OC on this board
i found out that the mem ok! button will let you boot up without problems almost every time.
ive resorted to setting a target voltage and then running autotune
i usually get good OC's for 24/7 out of it.

but i wish i could figure out some more consistent ways to fix the problems
if i set my ram to 1600 and a cpu multi OC (that alone runs stable) then the ram will cause crashes
yet im getting almost 1700MHz out of autotune.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *predcon*
> 
> I can't seem to do a damn thing with my brand new Sabertooth except crash it. I've got 16GB of RAM rated at 1600MHz, and an FX-8150 BE chip, but I keep getting blue-screened at the Windows (7) loading screen (the part where the swirly bits form the Windows flag). It doesn't help that the blue screens don't stay up long enough for me to read them. I can, on every other attempt, get the Windows Diagnostic Toolset to load up from the installation disc, and I've run startup repair and a RAM check (which came up clean), but that didn't change anything (in fact, it took several tries just to get through a successful test before my system crashed and reset). I've also tried underclocking everything a little bit, and I've disabled all the Soread Spectrum options. Is there a way ti completely shut off all OC and "autotune" settings for the purposes of stability while performing diagnostics? Or does anyone know right away what the problem is?
> I suppose I should also mention that the hard drive that has Windows installed on it is being moved from an older hardware set (Phenom II 965 set in an MSI 790FX). I didn't think it would be a problem, and that I would just have to pop in the driver disc for the motherboard the same way I would for a new video card or whatever.


Format your hard drive and start with a fresh install of windows. its trying to use the drivers from your old board for this board and it doesn't work. with a fresh install of windows you will be good to go first boot


----------



## swiss76

Hi Sabertooth Owners Club memebers

I recently got myself one too, however I got temp problems: My VCORE-1 hits 45° at idle, under load up to 58° - with stock(!) voltages, open case and fans running at full speed.










With the case closed and vcore of ~1.45V I could hit over 70° degrees. I alway aborted benchmarks when I passed 68°, but peak was not yet reached.

So I thought, lets try a benchmark run with the open case and let the fans run at full speed, plus, why not point a hairdryer(set cool) at the nb heatsink.
That of course worked somewhat. When I touched the ceramix stuff it didn't seem very hot, then I touched the backplate - that thing was really hot - so I pointed the fan at the back of the board. Interesting result: It seemed to work just as well as the whole front cooler thing if not even better.



Conclusion:

I have no option to point a fan directly on the heatsink, even if I turned my 120mm fan from exhaust to intake, the air most likely will pass over the heatsink without really cooling it.
BUT:
Given the above results, is it possible there's something wrong with the heatsink istself - like bad thermal conductivity or something?

The case:


The mentioned backplate:


Cheers.


----------



## ocmi_teddy

you could reseat the heatsink and reapply the thermal paste. That back plate just acts as a secondary heatsink for the back of the VRMS.


----------



## Prometheus46

There is a lot of good info here, and I could use some help on my system really bad.
System specs:
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
Mobo-Sabertooth 990FX Tuf series-bios 0901
CPU= AMD 1090T Blk
Mem= Corsair XMS2000Mhz
PSU= Raidmax RX 1000AE
Graphics= 2xSapphire HD 6790 1Gb in CrossfireX
CPU Cooling= Xigmatek AIO boosted w/secondary "push" fan/cpu temps never go past 49C under Heaven benchmart(does the job anyway)
CD/DVD=2xAsus Combo drives
Floppy=1xstandard generic

The Xigmatek is an All-In-One water cooling system in case you arent familiar with it.
I run 4 120mm case fans in my XClio Windtunnel Full Tower, creating super air flow, plus I use GPU Tweak to keep card fans at 90% with a slight overclock (875/4440 effextive). Cards will reach 935/4880 and remain stable for benching(good cards-got lucky)

In any case, I would really, really, really appreciate some suggestions on how to get past 3.75ghz stable.
Have tried many voltage configurations, but none will get me to 4Ghz stable, which is whre I would be happy to get.
Any help is good help. Just please include all voltage setting and mem timings for this rig. Actually hoping someone has an identical rig (Mobo, CPU, Mem, Cards) who could help with this. That way I know it would be "spot on" help, and not guess work. Not being offensive in any way, but everyone here knows (or should know) that each CPU, Mem module, Graph card, PSU, etc are different like fingerprints...no two are the same. But all have a common ground that can be safely reached, and I've had this CPU up to 4.2 plus, but would crash after just a while.
Have Benched with Heaven and gotten scores of 1300+ but I know things were way off, even though when I compared benches to others, it said I was running comperable to an 6780 CrossfireX level. This felt good, but couldnt keep it stable enough to run PowerDVD 24/7 without a lockup.
....can somebody "please", "please", "please" help me here?
If need be, if you contact me via email, and you "truly know this setup, I will gladly give you a number to call, or I will call you to expedite the process of getting my puter up to par, and making it stable at the 4Ghz mark I know it can reach and still be stable.
Thanks folks, really need the help,
Prometheus46


----------



## predcon

[quote name="Solders18" url="[URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-990fx-owners-club/1950#post_16555425]http://www.overclock.net/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-990fx-owners-club/1950#post_16555425"]Format[/URL] your hard drive and start with a fresh install of windows. its trying to use the drivers from your old board for this board and it doesn't work. with a fresh install of windows you will be good to go first boot[/quote]That doesn't follow. Why would motherboards require a clean install of Windows for new drivers? Shouldn't there be a way to forcibly load the drivers from the driver CD while in Recovery Mode, then enter Safe Mode and install them properly?


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *predcon*
> 
> That doesn't follow. Why would motherboards require a clean install of Windows for new drivers? Shouldn't there be a way to forcibly load the drivers from the driver CD while in Recovery Mode, then enter Safe Mode and install them properly?


Sadly no, an old install of windows will not always work with a new mobo. when I changed from my qx6700 to this FX-6100 and sabertooth I couldnt even get safe mode to boot. clean install of windows and haven't had a problem since.


----------



## predcon

What about restoring a previous installation from another HDD after performing a clean install? Does that affect files only, or drivers as well?


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swiss76*
> 
> Hi Sabertooth Owners Club memebers
> I recently got myself one too, however I got temp problems: My VCORE-1 hits 45° at idle, under load up to 58° - with stock(!) voltages, open case and fans running at full speed.
> 
> With the case closed and vcore of ~1.45V I could hit over 70° degrees. I alway aborted benchmarks when I passed 68°, but peak was not yet reached.
> So I thought, lets try a benchmark run with the open case and let the fans run at full speed, plus, why not point a hairdryer(set cool) at the nb heatsink.
> That of course worked somewhat. When I touched the ceramix stuff it didn't seem very hot, then I touched the backplate - that thing was really hot - so I pointed the fan at the back of the board. Interesting result: It seemed to work just as well as the whole front cooler thing if not even better.
> .


I honestly don't think you have any thing to worry about. I'm not sure what my vcore temps get to under load but idle vcore-1 is 49° and vcore-2 is 47°.
The vrms are made to take some heat, they have all the voltage going through them.


----------



## Solders18

my vcore gets to 68 under load overclocked to 4.0 and a vcore of 1.454. they are made for 80-90, 90 being the upper end.


----------



## yching07

There are couple of things you can do in order to avoid a reintall of windows if you are changing motherboards, you need to uninstall all the drivers controllers from the motherboard or specific to the hardware and use the generic ones, then shutdown computer, swap the mobo and turn it on and it might work, if it doesnt saddly then you need to reinstall or fix your current windows installation.

I followed a guide that you can find on google about this subject, windows 7 manage the swaping of hardware very easily and i didnt need to format/reinstall windows, it worked perfectly fine, but then again i was going from an asus m5a87 to an asus sabertooth.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yching07*
> 
> There are couple of things you can do in order to avoid a reintall of windows if you are changing motherboards, you need to uninstall all the drivers controllers from the motherboard or specific to the hardware and use the generic ones, then shutdown computer, swap the mobo and turn it on and it might work, if it doesnt saddly then you need to reinstall or fix your current windows installation.
> 
> I followed a guide that you can find on google about this subject, windows 7 manage the swaping of hardware very easily and i didnt need to format/reinstall windows, it worked perfectly fine, but then again i was going from an asus m5a87 to an asus sabertooth.


i just uninstalled the old drivers for my Gigabyte GA-78LMT-S2P and swapped it for my sabertooth and installed the new drivers. no probs.


----------



## yching07

Yeah that is exactly what I did and it work just fine.

this is the guide i was talking about, found it on no time and it works really well.

http://scottiestech.info/2010/03/17/upgrade-your-motherboard-without-reinstalling-your-os/


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChocoThunder*
> 
> Hey guys, just got my setup a couple weeks ago. I manged to get a hold of the *military green vengeance ram* and I noticed not many people have been using this combo. It looks amazing.
> Here is a video if you wanna see how nice the Sabertooth looks with this Corsair ram.


Wow. I feel cheated. I got the same ram but went with the black. Nice find


----------



## Prometheus46

This rig was put together all parts brand new. No other OS has been installed on the drives, so it can have nothing to do with that. What I need are exact bios settings to get be past, or somewhere near the 4gig mark. I reflashed the bios to clean it out and start fresh. The OS is a fresh install, with ServicePK 1 installed, as well as other updates. I use Avast Pro, MalwareBytes AntiMalwarebytes Pro, GPU Tweak, the latest Realtek 2.67 drivers/firnware, ATI 12.1 drivers for G-cards, and have it set to 3.6 at the moment. Still seems a little dodgy, but its stable...not as stable as it should be. Going to look and see if there are new Crucial SSD firmware updates to see if that might be an issue, and if I have to, will format again since it only take a few hours to get it all set back up to my liking.
I did find out that my vcore, and other voltages were way too high for stock settings, but the flash put that in order. Its a pain running two SSD's in raid 0, and not much of an increase (if any) in performance. I also need some info in the HT settings.

I was of the mind that the settings I had were on a X 2 ratio, but apparently its a 1:1 ratio from what I am seeing on the forums. I know I got a good 1090T because I've had it to 4g+ several times with absolutely no heat issues. Temps are now running approx 36-38C while in bios. I loaded it to 75-85% with apps and still never got past 44C. The vcore1 temps run higher than the CPU temps, but only by 1 to 2 C.

My board temp is "ambient"....room temp, so I know I have plenty of possitive air flow in the right areas. PCI-e temps are both low as well. PCI-e1 is at 29C, and PCI-e 2 is at 28. Cards are set to 875/ 1120(4480 effective) but still run only 39C idle on slot 1, and slot 2 is 38C. Voltage through GPU is set to match GPU speeds, and locked in. I can easally get 920/1240 on both cards, but why? So I leave them at 875/1120.

Ran Heaven bench with HT and CPU/NB both set to 2600, and got a decent score of about 1500+ with Heaven set to 1920x1080, 8X, 8X last night at 3.85g on the CPU. Problem is, when I run my Power DVD, or anything else for any length of time, it starts getting boggy....even if its just sitting. Have had trouble on reboots even at stock 3.2ghz, and mem set to 1600mhz = 9-9-9-30-42-1T, or 2t. My mem doesn't like 2T at all being XMS 2000mhz Corsair. I have my mem in "factory" suggested possitions of #'s 2 and 4. Not sure if Asus is right about those placements of DDR3 DC mem sticks. Have thought about trying a single stick in #1 dimm, and see how it runs, but have had too much going on to get around to it.
That might be another issue to address as well.

Mem temps are great though, and setting the mem to any speed I want within a 9-11-10-30-42-1T range seems to have little effect on the problem.

Am a little concerned about Explorer browser, as I seem to have lots of lock ups while using it, but as I said, even sitting Idle it will bog slowly.

Have run every Malware test I can, even in safe mode, but no infection shows up.

Have uninstalled, and re-installed all mobo drivers, and software as well, but still get the same thing.

I'm beggining to think this could possibly be an SSD issue so I may break it down to a single 64gig drive, install, and test each one to see if there is a problem. That is about all I can think of as a possible cause for the lagging effect, and BSOD's I get when I crank on it some. This is one reason I wanted to get "specific" bios setting from someone using the same setup where CPU. mobo, mem, and drives are concerned. The G-cards are ok. I have 3 of the same cards, but can unfortunatly only use two as the 6790's only have a single Xfire bridge connector, and the cards are probably too large to fit all 3 on the board due to the case I use. Hardly any space between #4 PCI-e and the bottom of the case. Case is great for air flow though when its set up correctly.....but may look into something with a bottom PSU mount for the extra room in case a tripple bridge connector is made which would allow all 3 cards to run in Xfire.....would be nice to have 16x by 16x by 8x on this rig.

Will also eventually go with an 8150 CPU as well. Depending on how well this works out after tracking down the "ghost in the machine". Have ambitions of replacing the M4A79 Deluxe with another Sabertooth, or better board for my secondary gamer.

Thanks for any input you folks might have. Now that I've posted my software (primary anyway) list, it may shed some extra light on other possible problems.

Sure would like to see an "exact" spec list for bios settings from someone that at least runs the same CPU. Anybody that just happens to have the same mem, drives, would be a real bonus as well.

Thanks again for the help folks. It's greatly appreciated.


----------



## Belander87

If I recall there will be little to no gain at all when raiding SSDs as you lose the TRIM function.


----------



## Disturbed117

Should Have my sabertooth soon.


----------



## truckerguy

cool your going to luv it


----------



## Prometheus46

Absolutely correct. I also found that there has been a firmware update on the Crucial SSD M4's and therein lies a proplem as well. I think after much trouble shooting, I'm finally aiming in the right direction as to the lag being created on my system. Now all thats left to do is get those bios settings in order from someone with the same CPU, and the battle should be nearly over. I ordered some Crucial 2000mhz mem today, that is "certified" for the Sabertooth directly from Crucial themselves for just over $86 for a set of 2 x 4gb kit.

I may end up having to replace the old Xigmatek that has served me well to get to dimm1, but so be it. I need to step up the cooling system anyway to something a little less incroaching on the DIMM slots as it is.

Still will, as I said, welcome bios advice on voltage, timings, multipiers, etc none the less.

Thanks for the input Trucker...much appreciated! ;-)


----------



## Solders18

Has anyone had the problem of their computer not sleeping properly? i disabled hybrid sleep and put it to sleep but instead of going fully to sleep it will keep all the fans and lights on. the power light blinks indicating its in sleep mode and it takes a little bit to come back like it is from sleep. what is keeping the fans on while in sleep and can i change something so it goes into sleep fully?


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> Has anyone had the problem of their computer not sleeping properly? i disabled hybrid sleep and put it to sleep but instead of going fully to sleep it will keep all the fans and lights on. the power light blinks indicating its in sleep mode and it takes a little bit to come back like it is from sleep. what is keeping the fans on while in sleep and can i change something so it goes into sleep fully?


There should be two different stand by modes. I think S3 is the one to use, but you should wait for someone to confirm.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> There should be two different stand by modes. I think S3 is the one to use, but you should wait for someone to confirm.


thats in the bios right? i looked for it but couldn't find it. i had to change it on my last MB


----------



## truckerguy

Prometheus46 if your using a Phoenom II cpu you need 042 virssion of bios when you go to the FX cpu you will need 0813 virrion of bios


----------



## Kieran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChocoThunder*
> 
> Hey guys, just got my setup a couple weeks ago. I manged to get a hold of the *military green vengeance ram* and I noticed not many people have been using this combo. It looks amazing.
> Here is a video if you wanna see how nice the Sabertooth looks with this Corsair ram.


That RAM looks great, i managed to find it in stock in the UK so i'll get a set of them soon









My Sabertooth motherboard is on it's way and should be here by Saturday along with a new SSD!


----------



## reaperUK

hey all, ive just put my amd 960t in my mobo and oc,ed it to 4gig, just ran everest for 2 hours and max temp i got was 43 degrees, on idle i average around 30-33, are these temps ok for 24/7 oc?


----------



## skaskaster

Hi everyone. I have a problem with this motherboard - it doesnt see all 8 gigs of ram. I have 4 KINGSTON VALUERAM KVR1333D3N9/2G (i checked - it is in QVL). I tried different variations of putting ram sticks in different slots. The memory in slots A1 and A2 is recognized, but in B1 and B2 is not recognized. I have the latest BIOS, running phenom x6 1090t. Maybe there is an option in BIOS that i missed?


----------



## reaperUK

i think u may have memory hole remapping turned on in bios, just turn it off and see


----------



## skaskaster

Well i was a little bit wrong - the motherboard CAN see all DIMMs, but the windows (7, the 64 one) says that it is only 4 gigs availible, the funny thing OS knows that there are 8 gigs installed.

But on the main screen "Availible memory" is 4096.

So i went to the memory options, turned off remmaping, and now Windows says that it is only 2,96Gig of ram is availible.
Maybe i need to change other options in BIOS?


I also tried msconfig -> boot -> advanced options -> maximum memory with 8192 and it didnt helped.
Didnt have these problems on my old m4a785td-v evo


----------



## truckerguy

put one stick in A2 and B2


----------



## reaperUK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaskaster*
> 
> Well i was a little bit wrong - the motherboard CAN see all DIMMs, but the windows (7, the 64 one) says that it is only 4 gigs availible, the funny thing OS knows that there are 8 gigs installed.
> 
> But on the main screen "Availible memory" is 4096.
> So i went to the memory options, turned off remmaping, and now Windows says that it is only 2,96Gig of ram is availible.
> Maybe i need to change other options in BIOS?
> 
> I also tried msconfig -> boot -> advanced options -> maximum memory with 8192 and it didnt helped.
> Didnt have these problems on my old m4a785td-v evo


hi, ive just checked my bios and it says EEC disabled and memory hole remmaing disabled as well, you could try that


----------



## skaskaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> put one stick in A2 and B2


The result

And Main BIOS windows says "Total memory: 2048 MB (DDR3 1066Mhz)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaperUK*
> 
> hi, ive just checked my bios and it says EEC disabled and memory hole remmaing disabled as well, you could try that


That didnt help too +(


----------



## yching07

you sure your windows is a 64bits?

try putting 4 dimms on the board, leave everything on auto, and put some screenshots of the windows system window + cpu-z on the memory tab.


----------



## skaskaster

Got it


I suppose the problem is not in windows, because i installed it yesterday, and because in BIOS it says:


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> Has anyone had the problem of their computer not sleeping properly? i disabled hybrid sleep and put it to sleep but instead of going fully to sleep it will keep all the fans and lights on. the power light blinks indicating its in sleep mode and it takes a little bit to come back like it is from sleep. what is keeping the fans on while in sleep and can i change something so it goes into sleep fully?


I had that problem and it turned out I wasn't using bios version 0705. If you use 0813 or 0901 your computer won't go to sleep correctly and you'll have to hit reset to wake it up. It may just only occur with the X6's as I'm using an 1100T.


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaskaster*
> 
> Got it
> 
> I suppose the problem is not in windows, because i installed it yesterday, and because in BIOS it says:


Have you tried the mem ok button?


----------



## Big Shabazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> Have you tried the mem ok button?


^ This.

If you're having problem with memory I would also suggest that. I had an issue where I went from memory with a frequency of 1333 MHz to ones with 2133 MHz and I couldn't get it to up the frequency without my internal speaker screaming at me in protest. So on start up I hit the button and it reset the memory on the board and started back up with a frequency of 1600 MHz.


----------



## Mistral

try 2 sticks in A2 and B2 to make sure the slots are OK, it might just be badly seated dimms.


----------



## xProxius

Strange problem i ran into this morning...Off a cold boot i got Overclock Failed.I was thinking why?I passed 12 hours of prime blend,2 hours off OCCT and 40 runs of LinX with no errors also even stressed my GPU for 3 hours with OCCT Gpu with no errors. Anyone else having his problem happend on reboot also


----------



## BStanchina

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2275107


----------



## Disturbed117

Count Me In.



http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2276122


----------



## Citra




----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *disturbed117*
> 
> Count Me In.


just thought you should know, your name is said "disturbed eleventy-seven"


----------



## Disturbed117

Alright Guys, i have an issue.

i have set my CPU voltage to 1.40 Yet when stressing it jumps up to around 1.44-1.45volts.

Any advice?

i have tried turning llc to Extreme.


----------



## snok89

I have a problem with my build, thermal radar tells - it starts out with 23-25c idle then after 10mins its 40 idle on everything. and i havent overclocked anything. all standard or auto options as normal.

Sabertooth 990fx motherboard (new)
corsair vengeance 1600mhz 16GB (new)
cooler master hyper 212 evo - cpu cooler (new)
amd FX 6100 6-core 3.4ghz (new)
amd XFX radeon hd 6950 2GB
crucial SSD 128gb (new)
western digital green 2TB
corsair TX 750W powersupply

2x 200mm fans (cooler master fans)
1x 140 mm fan (noctua fan)
1x 120 mm fan (cooler master fan)

help? :S


----------



## xProxius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snok89*
> 
> I have a problem with my build, thermal radar tells - it starts out with 23-25c idle then after 10mins its 40 idle on everything. and i havent overclocked anything. all standard or auto options as normal.
> 
> Sabertooth 990fx motherboard (new)
> corsair vengeance 1600mhz 16GB (new)
> cooler master hyper 212 evo - cpu cooler (new)
> amd FX 6100 6-core 3.4ghz (new)
> amd XFX radeon hd 6950 2GB
> crucial SSD 128gb (new)
> western digital green 2TB
> corsair TX 750W powersupply
> 
> 2x 200mm fans (cooler master fans)
> 1x 140 mm fan (noctua fan)
> 1x 120 mm fan (cooler master fan)
> 
> help? :S


what do your temps read in hwmonitor?as in everything you mean every component?

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk


----------



## Speedy-j

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xaphan187*
> 
> Strange problem i ran into this morning...Off a cold boot i got Overclock Failed.I was thinking why?I passed 12 hours of prime blend,2 hours off OCCT and 40 runs of LinX with no errors also even stressed my GPU for 3 hours with OCCT Gpu with no errors. Anyone else having his problem happend on reboot also


Ik think your problem is the RAM ,it must be set to 2T command rate to run propperly.
Try it and let us know if this helps.


----------



## Mistral

Why are you running your ram at 1404Mhz (702.4 - 3:10)? it should be 1872mhz (936.4 - 3:14) 9-10-9-28-37-2T and a CPU/NB frequency of 2107 probably means you are playing with the CPU bus speed which is not necessary. You can run all the Prime, OCCT and LinX you like and a game can still crash or reboot the system, your overclock is not stable.


----------



## xProxius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedy-j*
> 
> Ik think your problem is the RAM ,it must be set to 2T command rate to run propperly.
> Try it and let us know if this helps.


Thanks Mistral pointed something out.Kinda stuck :S
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> Why are you running your ram at 1404Mhz (702.4 - 3:10)? it should be 1872mhz (936.4 - 3:14) 9-10-9-28-37-2T and a CPU/NB frequency of 2107 probably means you are playing with the CPU bus speed which is not necessary. You can run all the Prime, OCCT and LinX you like and a game can still crash or reboot the system, your overclock is not stable.


So i did what you pointed out but i ran into and issue how do i set it to 1872?Posting some screen shots to let you see there is no option under ram frequency.Thanks for the help.


----------



## clocinnorcal

Please add me to the list.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2276909


----------



## Disturbed117

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clocinnorcal*
> 
> Please add me to the list.
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2276909


Please Follow this Link


----------



## clocinnorcal

Ah, thank you. I forgot to do that part.


----------



## Mistral

Sorry my mistake I thought you had an FX6100, the only way to increase the ram speed is to increase the CPU BUS Frequency, you need to increase it too 234 that will give you 1872Mhz but you will have to adjust the multi for the CPU, CPU/NB and HT link as they will increase as well. You may have to increase the CPU/NB voltage to stabilize the IMC as the controller in your chip is not rated above 1600Mhz.


----------



## MiyukiChan

My verification

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2277946


----------



## xProxius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> Sorry my mistake I thought you had an FX6100, the only way to increase the ram speed is to increase the CPU BUS Frequency, you need to increase it too 234 that will give you 1872Mhz but you will have to adjust the multi for the CPU, CPU/NB and HT link as they will increase as well. You may have to increase the CPU/NB voltage to stabilize the IMC as the controller in your chip is not rated above 1600Mhz.


Alright so i got that settled had to bump the HT and CPU/NB to 2340Mhz to get it to boot.I have the CPU BUS set to 234 and the multiplier set to 17.Not sure were i should go from here.Thanks




Should i set all the voltages manually or leave them as auto?


Update: passed 40 runs of LinX going to run prime blend while im at work..


----------



## DevilsNight

Add me in!

CPU-Z Validation


----------



## Disturbed117

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilsNight*
> 
> Add me in!
> CPU-Z Validation


Please Follow this Link


----------



## TwiggLe

So anyone else able to unlock the cores on there CPU before this board the not with it?
I had an Asus M4A79xtd Evo before this with my 960t and was able to unlock all 6 cores and get to 4.2ghz.
Now I can't even unlock the extra cores at stock clocks. The PC powers on but then never gets to post. I have to power
it down then turn it back on and it goes to post and says it failed to unlock any extra cores.


----------



## DevilsNight

I already did that before hand i just wanted to post a picture of my sabertooth also. Thanks anyways.


----------



## Disturbed117

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilsNight*
> 
> I already did that before hand i just wanted to post a picture of my sabertooth also. Thanks anyways.


Ah, my bad.


----------



## Mistral

It's usually preferable to manually put the voltages in but you will probably have to play with the LLC settings if you do. If necessary you could lower the FSB to 233 that would lower the memory to 1864Mhz and drop the CPU/NB and HT slightly. If you want to use Cool'n'Quiet you will have to use the offset voltages otherwise it doesn't work, but if not you could put them on manual. If you are using all four memory slots then I suggest you increase the DRAM voltage, using four slots usually needs an increase in voltage try 1.55v, you may need to increase the CPU/NB voltage as well. Good Luck.


----------



## xProxius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> It's usually preferable to manually put the voltages in but you will probably have to play with the LLC settings if you do. If necessary you could lower the FSB to 233 that would lower the memory to 1864Mhz and drop the CPU/NB and HT slightly. If you want to use Cool'n'Quiet you will have to use the offset voltages otherwise it doesn't work, but if not you could put them on manual. If you are using all four memory slots then I suggest you increase the DRAM voltage, using four slots usually needs an increase in voltage try 1.55v, you may need to increase the CPU/NB voltage as well. Good Luck.


Alright,Got home Prime failed on core 3 withen 5 minutes...went into bio and droped the ht link to 2113 booted back up.Started prime again about 12 hours later right this moment and it hasnt failed yet.


----------



## addz17

I got my sabertooth about a month ago and was running my NB at 2600mhz with no issues at all. I changed over to 64 bit (win7) the other day and my system wont even post at 2200 even with the NB at 1.3 volts and everything else set to auto. Any insight into this would be appreciated. Is there some Bios setting i need to change or something..... im quite confused lol


----------



## Mistral

If you can get into the bios then your system is posting, do you mean Windows won't load?


----------



## addz17

I mean i can't get into my bios, have to hold in the mem ok button to do a hard reset.


----------



## sequoia464

Do you know which bios is installed?


----------



## Solders18

Speaking of bios, when is there going to be an update? does anyone know?


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> Speaking of bios, when is there going to be an update? does anyone know?


Dont think one is really needed. Board supports bulldozer with out issues, and all cpu's its intended to.
I'm not even running the most current UEFI as it lowered my performance.

If a new one comes out I'll try it but dont expect it to do any thing.

If there is a particular issue you are having that you think UEFI may resolve I'd sugest contacting ASUS about a beta if they have one.


----------



## addz17

i think its 0402, would that cause the northbridge to have no overclocking ability whatsoever?


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *addz17*
> 
> i think its 0402, would that cause the northbridge to have no overclocking ability whatsoever?


0402 is the original shipping bios - I had some issues with it, I'm now using 0901. I don't think it (0402) would affect northbridge overclocking though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE




----------



## yching07

0402?? we are at 09xx something you should really update your bios.


----------



## karnos

Hey guys, can you find the sabertooth 990FX in this pic?



Proof of ownership:

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2284377

I actually own 2 sabertooth 990FX systems. This one is the cheap bitcoin mining rig running a $50 CPU.


----------



## almstsobur

Has anyone put a VRM cooler on the sabertooth? My VRM waterblock is out for delivery today, should be installing it tonight, tips?


----------



## onestack

where did you get your vrm cooler? we talking passive solution or water? im interested becaues i ordered a board but was looking for waterblocks for it and only thing i found was a sb block from EK


----------



## addz17

Update: hard reset seems to have it sorted, dont know if i had some weird bios options selected that inhibited NB overclocking but bios revision had nothing to do with it. Either way its fixed lol Love this mobo, wouldnt mind swaping my 965 for a 960t though. Higher overclock with the possibility of a few more cores sounds good. Anybody wanna sell


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *addz17*
> 
> Update: hard reset seems to have it sorted, dont know if i had some weird bios options selected that inhibited NB overclocking but bios revision had nothing to do with it. Either way its fixed lol Love this mobo, wouldnt mind swaping my 965 for a 960t though. Higher overclock with the possibility of a few more cores sounds good. Anybody wanna sell


Glad you got it going again, but you might still think about updating that bios. My board had issues with 0402.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karnos*
> 
> Hey guys, can you find the sabertooth 990FX in this pic?
> 
> 
> 
> Proof of ownership:
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2284377
> 
> I actually own 2 sabertooth 990FX systems. This one is the cheap bitcoin mining rig running a $50 CPU.


why use a sabertooth? no cheaper tri-sli/fire supporting boards?


----------



## Jolly Roger

My rig won't boot at all.

Ok my sig rig hasn't been posting so here are the basics:
Sabertooth 990FX
FX-8120
2x Crucial M4 RAID-0
2x GTS450
OCZ 600W

I just built this two nights ago. It was working just fine. I ran into some driver issues trying to get SLI to work so in the mean time i installed some other drivers. Everything was going fine until I installed my Xonar DS sound drivers and then no programs would open. Chrome wouldn't open, IE wouldn't, WMP wouldn't either. I wasn't too far into it yet so I decided to do a clean install.

After work/school I came home booted it up to double check to see if programs still wouldnt load and they wouldn't so I proceeded to go ahead with my clean OS install. I rebooted, went into BIOS to set it to boot to my optical drive. I couldn't see my optical drive in my boot device list. I tried rebooting, i tried a few different boot settings, mostly display option ROM stuff. I tried a few other various BIOS settings to see if I could get the optical to appear but could not get it to appear. During one reboot using the "hold down the power button" method it would n't show anything on the screen. It wouldn't boot at all. No POST. No memory test. No text. NOTHING! The screen wouldn't even turn on. I have two monitors. I tried both. I have two GFX cards. I tried both. I cleared the CMOS. Nothing. I cleared the CMOS took out the battery. Nothing. I cleared the cmos, took out the battery, switched it off, unplugged it. Put it all back. NOTHING. I took out all that again and the gfx and the sound. NOTHING. I took out all that again. And unplugged the hard drives. Tried it again. NOTHING.
My case fans turn on. I hear my optical drive spinning. My MB light is on. GFX card fan on. No HDD activity light. No signal on both monitors. I keep trying to reboot it it and it does the same thing. The only thing that really changes is the CPU LED wil come on sometimes and sometimes it won't.
I can't believe this is happening. I don't have too many options available for me to test out components since my tech is pretty new right now.

HELP!!!!!!


----------



## Jolly Roger

Alright. So you know when you go to some parties and people ask you what your most embarrassing moment is? Well I think that this little fiasco just took second place for that. As it turns out I was repeatedly resetting the CMOS switch to the wrong position! I had it on CLEAR every time I tried to reboot. In my mind though it was in the right position. Let this be a lesson to me not to watch TV while troubleshooting. Also, no matter how experienced you are with this stuff noob mistakes can happen that easy.


----------



## reaperUK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jolly Roger*
> 
> My rig won't boot at all.
> Ok my sig rig hasn't been posting so here are the basics:
> Sabertooth 990FX
> FX-8120
> 2x Crucial M4 RAID-0
> 2x GTS450
> OCZ 600W
> I just built this two nights ago. It was working just fine. I ran into some driver issues trying to get SLI to work so in the mean time i installed some other drivers. Everything was going fine until I installed my Xonar DS sound drivers and then no programs would open. Chrome wouldn't open, IE wouldn't, WMP wouldn't either. I wasn't too far into it yet so I decided to do a clean install.
> After work/school I came home booted it up to double check to see if programs still wouldnt load and they wouldn't so I proceeded to go ahead with my clean OS install. I rebooted, went into BIOS to set it to boot to my optical drive. I couldn't see my optical drive in my boot device list. I tried rebooting, i tried a few different boot settings, mostly display option ROM stuff. I tried a few other various BIOS settings to see if I could get the optical to appear but could not get it to appear. During one reboot using the "hold down the power button" method it would n't show anything on the screen. It wouldn't boot at all. No POST. No memory test. No text. NOTHING! The screen wouldn't even turn on. I have two monitors. I tried both. I have two GFX cards. I tried both. I cleared the CMOS. Nothing. I cleared the CMOS took out the battery. Nothing. I cleared the cmos, took out the battery, switched it off, unplugged it. Put it all back. NOTHING. I took out all that again and the gfx and the sound. NOTHING. I took out all that again. And unplugged the hard drives. Tried it again. NOTHING.
> My case fans turn on. I hear my optical drive spinning. My MB light is on. GFX card fan on. No HDD activity light. No signal on both monitors. I keep trying to reboot it it and it does the same thing. The only thing that really changes is the CPU LED wil come on sometimes and sometimes it won't.
> I can't believe this is happening. I don't have too many options available for me to test out components since my tech is pretty new right now.
> HELP!!!!!!


@jolly roger, hi, i had issues (still now and again) with my asus xonar dx2 aswell, one day it works ok then next time i boot i have no sound so i had uninstall the drivers then did driversweeper to make sure all drivers were deleted then reinstalled them again, have u disabled onboard sound in bios, try 1 memory stick at a time, i didnt have the probs u had but it seems to me that the drivers for the sound arnt compatible for some reason and it seems that they are conflicting with something in your hardware, hope i helped a little:thumb:


----------



## almstsobur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onestack*
> 
> where did you get your vrm cooler? we talking passive solution or water? im interested becaues i ordered a board but was looking for waterblocks for it and only thing i found was a sb block from EK


Koolance 100mm water block with 140mm plate adapter, installed it last night. Works great! The stock ceramic has 3 screws to take the Mosfets side (green section) off to fit the water cooler. you just have to ever so lightly bend the heatpipe to the right a little and the black section still covers the chokes nicely.

http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=736
http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=737

I can take a pic of it installed if anyone is interested.


----------



## haziqk10

Hi guys. My 960t coming tomorrow and I was thinking to update to the latest bios. Mine still using the stock bios.
So is it ok to update to the latest bios?? Or its only for the bulldozer?? Mind sharing the easiest way to update the bios?? Thank you.


----------



## reaperUK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haziqk10*
> 
> Hi guys. My 960t coming tomorrow and I was thinking to update to the latest bios. Mine still using the stock bios.
> So is it ok to update to the latest bios?? Or its only for the bulldozer?? Mind sharing the easiest way to update the bios?? Thank you.


got my 960t running at 4gig no probs using the 0901 bios


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almstsobur*
> 
> Koolance 100mm water block with 140mm plate adapter, installed it last night. Works great! The stock ceramic has 3 screws to take the Mosfets side (green section) off to fit the water cooler. you just have to ever so lightly bend the heatpipe to the right a little and the black section still covers the chokes nicely.
> http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=736
> http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=737
> I can take a pic of it installed if anyone is interested.


Please do!


----------



## TitusPrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaperUK*
> 
> got my 960t running at 4gig no probs using the 0901 bios


Me too. Unlocked to x6 and OC to 4.2GHz and all is well.


----------



## almstsobur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Please do!


kinda crappy pics, hard to get in there with a camera phone. gives you the idea though.


----------



## Disturbed117




----------



## Citra

Nice!


----------



## reaperUK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TitusPrime*
> 
> Me too. Unlocked to x6 and OC to 4.2GHz and all is well.


hi titus, would u mind giving me your settings to run 6 cores, i cant seem to get mine stable at all running 6 cores so i just went bk to 4 cores, any help would great cheers:thumb:


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaperUK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TitusPrime*
> 
> Me too. Unlocked to x6 and OC to 4.2GHz and all is well.
> 
> 
> 
> hi titus, would u mind giving me your settings to run 6 cores, i cant seem to get mine stable at all running 6 cores so i just went bk to 4 cores, any help would great cheers:thumb:
Click to expand...

Sometimes its just the chip, maybe try 5 cores?


----------



## karnos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> why use a sabertooth? no cheaper tri-sli/fire supporting boards?


There are plenty of cheaper boards, but at the time I wasn't sure how long I would be doing this bitcoin mining thing. Also, this was back prior to the bulldozer release. So I built the rig on a nice sabertooth 990fx board, thinking that when I got tired of bitcoin mining I could upgrade to a super fast bulldozer CPU and use it as my new workstation.

Bulldozer release performance was disappointing and the bitcoin mining thing is still profitable, so that idea never did work out as originally planned.

Still, I think that day will occur someday, and it'll be nice to have at least some upgrade options, as opposed to the dirt cheap bitcoin mining boards.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karnos*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> why use a sabertooth? no cheaper tri-sli/fire supporting boards?
> 
> 
> 
> There are plenty of cheaper boards, but at the time I wasn't sure how long I would be doing this *do not mention on this website* thing. Also, this was back prior to the bulldozer release. So I built the rig on a nice sabertooth 990fx board, thinking that when I got tired of *do not mention on this website* I could upgrade to a super fast bulldozer CPU and use it as my new workstation.
> 
> Bulldozer release performance was disappointing and the *do not mention on this website* thing is still profitable, so that idea never did work out as originally planned.
> 
> Still, I think that day will occur someday, and it'll be nice to have at least some upgrade options, as opposed to the dirt cheap *do not mention on this website* boards.
Click to expand...

fixed^^


----------



## 187nick

is anyone out THERE please help...i have the sabertooth 990fx....i purchased a new hard drive....a WD cavair black sata 3 6gbs........my old hard drive was a seagate barrucuda sata 2 3gbs.....the only thing is when i boot an it goes through the jmicron sata 3 detecting drives when u first turn it on it saz no drive found on the stat 3 6gbs port.....but i do see it in the bios an in windows.....i have alrdy cloned the drive....now if i go to boot override i can boot from the new drive no problem...then i restart go trough detecting drives still says no drive found on the sata 6gbs ports...go into bios again can still see the drive in there but it has PO (PO wdXXXXX) beside it but i cant set the drive in the boot priority
any suggestions


----------



## milo99

hey guys, i have a question that's been asked in some way or another by different people but being fairly novice at overclocking/tweaking BIOS settings for speeds and voltage changes, i can use some guidance.

i have 2 4GB sticks of G.Skill sniper DRAM that are 1866 pc14900 - and i changed the one setting in the BIOS that was at 1600 for the DRAM speed, along with manually changing the timings to the published times in the manual (9, 10, 9, 28). The memory voltage per the manual is 1.5v and that's what it's running at. But after booting when i run CPU-Z, it still shows my memory at 800mhz core- i.e. 1600. The timings show as i changed them (they used to be 10,11,10,29)

i'm not trying to overclock my cpu (it's the FX-8120), i just want the darned memory to run at the speed it's supposed to. but not too sure what to do. I'm not too opposed to overclocking, but i don't need to do anything crazy, as i only have a 500watt p/s and stock cooling (which has been fine - 43c is the worst i've seen).

Any help would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## xProxius

Still having cold boot issues







Cold boot > Overclock Failed.Tested system with 40-50 run of LinX,24 hours of prime blend,and 10 or so runs of 3dmark 11 no errors.Played multiple games for hours no lock ups or bluescreens..So im assuming its stable.Im wondering could PSU be the cause of this?Thanks


----------



## sequoia464

has anyone used this bios with the modified raid ROM? http://www.overclock.net/t/1225517/dl-sabertooth-990fx-bios-901-with-updated-raid-rom-latest-raid-driver


----------



## brad6969

187 nick have u tried changing sata ports for the hard drive?


----------



## brad6969

have a problem with you just unplugged a device from your audio jack message......only when i installed the drivers for audio did it pop up n i can hide the notification but still lose sound for a couple seconds r so seems to b software since it was running perfectly before i installed "proper" drivers. anyone know if there are any driver updates that fix this issue?


----------



## Tweeky

If it was me I would update to the latest 0901

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#download

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haziqk10*
> 
> Hi guys. My 960t coming tomorrow and I was thinking to update to the latest bios. Mine still using the stock bios.
> So is it ok to update to the latest bios?? Or its only for the bulldozer?? Mind sharing the easiest way to update the bios?? Thank you.


----------



## Tweeky

look in your manual under extreme tweaker chapter 3

look for D.O.C.P. and it will set your ram to factory defaults
use the last profile 0 or 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *milo99*
> 
> hey guys, i have a question that's been asked in some way or another by different people but being fairly novice at overclocking/tweaking BIOS settings for speeds and voltage changes, i can use some guidance.
> i have 2 4GB sticks of G.Skill sniper DRAM that are 1866 pc14900 - and i changed the one setting in the BIOS that was at 1600 for the DRAM speed, along with manually changing the timings to the published times in the manual (9, 10, 9, 28). The memory voltage per the manual is 1.5v and that's what it's running at. But after booting when i run CPU-Z, it still shows my memory at 800mhz core- i.e. 1600. The timings show as i changed them (they used to be 10,11,10,29)
> i'm not trying to overclock my cpu (it's the FX-8120), i just want the darned memory to run at the speed it's supposed to. but not too sure what to do. I'm not too opposed to overclocking, but i don't need to do anything crazy, as i only have a 500watt p/s and stock cooling (which has been fine - 43c is the worst i've seen).
> Any help would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## Tweeky

are you using IDE or AHCI on any of your hard drives

if so what setting are you using

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187nick*
> 
> is anyone out THERE please help...i have the sabertooth 990fx....i purchased a new hard drive....a WD cavair black sata 3 6gbs........my old hard drive was a seagate barrucuda sata 2 3gbs.....the only thing is when i boot an it goes through the jmicron sata 3 detecting drives when u first turn it on it saz no drive found on the stat 3 6gbs port.....but i do see it in the bios an in windows.....i have alrdy cloned the drive....now if i go to boot override i can boot from the new drive no problem...then i restart go trough detecting drives still says no drive found on the sata 6gbs ports...go into bios again can still see the drive in there but it has PO (PO wdXXXXX) beside it but i cant set the drive in the boot priority
> any suggestions


----------



## predcon

Is the HPC Mode option safe to use if I'm not pushing the CPU (in this case an FX-8150 BE) beyond spec? I have a decent cooler (Hydro H80) with a decent TIM (PK-1), and every available grille has a fan on it (three of them are mounted on the _outside_).


----------



## Tweeky

new bully-dozers at newegg

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819106009

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819106010


----------



## 187nick

Yeah i have tried diff. sata ports still says no drive detected...an i have it in AHCI mode in the bios

UPDATE...when i turn on my pc it goes through both jmicron detecting drives an still says no drives found on either....but i dont have any dirves on the sata II ports so thats ok but it still doesn't detect my drives on sata III ports an then it will still continue to boot of the drive into windows....an in the bios i cant select the drive in the boot priority option


----------



## flaxx0r

expecting mine in the mail tomorrow as well as the rest of my new build (first ever) stay tuned for more =D


----------



## xProxius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187nick*
> 
> Yeah i have tried diff. sata ports still says no drive detected...an i have it in AHCI mode in the bios
> 
> UPDATE...when i turn on my pc it goes through both jmicron detecting drives an still says no drives found on either....but i dont have any dirves on the sata II ports so thats ok but it still doesn't detect my drives on sata III ports an then it will still continue to boot of the drive into windows....an in the bios i cant select the drive in the boot priority option


Hmm check the jumpers? Try another cable? strange issue man hope you get it resolved.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk


----------



## Heidi

ppl...4.5GHz(18*250 2500NB 2500HT 1666RAM) out of FX 8120, 1.392V Vcore and 1.25V NB...absolutelly flawlesly...great performance...fluid and cool...btw, all power saving is on minus APM...runs gr8! Forgot to mention, IBT full tilt gives in closed case 57 degrees...gr8 cooler as well...better than my previous h2o 620...


----------



## xProxius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heidi*
> 
> ppl...4.5GHz(18*250 2500NB 2500HT 1666RAM) out of FX 8120, 1.392V Vcore and 1.25V NB...absolutelly flawlesly...great performance...fluid and cool...btw, all power saving is on minus APM...runs gr8! Forgot to mention, IBT full tilt gives in closed case 57 degrees...gr8 cooler as well...better than my previous h2o 620...


Excellent







repped, keep up the good work


----------



## phillyd

I just landed my 8120 up to 4.1 on a slight voltage drop, stable 24/7. will be sticking with this OC due to the ridiculously cool temps.


----------



## brad6969

187nick do you have the latest version of jmb36x and AMD AHCI Driver installed? or are you running on what it came with? did it work prior to this problem or has it been there from the start? try changing sata cables like another person said they fail quite a lot worth it to try swapping out if u have another


----------



## TNDieselDawg

Hey guys I'm excepting my Sabertooth to come in the mail with in the next few hours. I'm upgrading my system from M4 series TD-V EVO board. Is there anything I can be doing to pre my computer before hand besides backing up my files?

I'm not the biggest computer systems geek but upgrading my system has be fun and I've really excited to see the differences.


----------



## 187nick

i am running what it came with it....the problem started when i got my new hard drive last week.....my old drive waz a sata 2 drive....an now i got
a sata 3 drive.....now when i had my old hard drive an dvd drive on the sata ii ports they would get detected no problem.....now i have my new drive an dvd drive on the sata 3 ports an they dont get detected but then it will continue to booot normmally so im pretty sure its not the sata cable
an why cant i set the drive in boot priority???
this is totally weird im stumped


----------



## xProxius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187nick*
> 
> i am running what it came with it....the problem started when i got my new hard drive last week.....my old drive waz a sata 2 drive....an now i got
> a sata 3 drive.....now when i had my old hard drive an dvd drive on the sata ii ports they would get detected no problem.....now i have my new drive an dvd drive on the sata 3 ports an they dont get detected but then it will continue to booot normmally so im pretty sure its not the sata cable
> an why cant i set the drive in boot priority???
> this is totally weird im stumped


Have had issues with dvd drives not reading and such on past mobos idk y but every time i changed the sata cable they magically worked...


----------



## EliteGhost

Does anyone here know if one of these two cpu coolers would fit over my Corsair vengeance ram. So far I think both of them might cover one of my DIMM slots.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181011

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteGhost*
> 
> Does anyone here know if one of these two cpu coolers would fit over my Corsair vengeance ram. So far I think both of them might cover one of my DIMM slots.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181011
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099


The 212 will cover your dim slot, but you can put the fan on the other side.

Sent from my iPod touch 4 using Tapatalk


----------



## THC Butterz

been gone for a long time... but i have my computer back so here i am...lol


----------



## Tweeky

welcome back


----------



## EliteGhost

ok thanks


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> welcome back


thank you sir


----------



## predcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *predcon*
> 
> Is the HPC Mode option safe to use if I'm not pushing the CPU (in this case an FX-8150 BE) beyond spec? I have a decent cooler (Hydro H80) with a decent TIM (PK-1), and every available grille has a fan on it (three of them are mounted on the _outside_).


But really, the HPC Mode. Is it safe to use?


----------



## almstsobur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *predcon*
> 
> But really, the HPC Mode. Is it safe to use?


I've been using it since day 1. 5.0Ghz OC on my 8150, no issues. It will still throttle if it is having temp issues.


----------



## tibbs1cat

Hi, im ordering one of these boards tomorrow after my Gigabyte GA890 blew up! but can anybody here answer a question that Asus cant?

how many of the 6 fan headers on the 990FX are individually adjustably? my Gigabyte had 4 headers, 2 fully adjustable and 2 at a constant 12v.

it would be a hugh help if somebody could tell me.

Thanks in advance for your help.


----------



## almstsobur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tibbs1cat*
> 
> Hi, im ordering one of these boards tomorrow after my Gigabyte GA890 blew up! but can anybody here answer a question that Asus cant?
> how many of the 6 fan headers on the 990FX are individually adjustably? my Gigabyte had 4 headers, 2 fully adjustable and 2 at a constant 12v.
> it would be a hugh help if somebody could tell me.
> Thanks in advance for your help.


They all are, but not individually. They are tied to CPU or Chassis. and those 2 are independently adjustable. If I recall its 2 headers for CPU 4 for Chassis.


----------



## xkilowatts

Brand new to the OCN forums, and to overclocking in general...I would like to O.C. my build to 4.0GHz+ but have absolutely no experience with it. This is my first UEFI BIOS build as well, and I don't really know what I'm doing there. So I thought maybe I'd come here and pick up some tips from pros









AMD FX-8120
Asus Sabertooth 990FX
16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1866 RAM
XFX ATI Radeon 6790
Corsair 32GB SSD (Upgrading to 128GB Crucial M4)
WD 1.5TB 5400 RPM HDD
OCZ 700W PSU
Cooler Master Hyper N 520 heatsink
Antec 300 case

And...that's my build, cable management is all kinds of not done because I'm going to be replacing drives and fans as soon as they arrive, but there it is. I'd like to see what I can do with it.


----------



## Speedy-j

Sabertooth likes Golden empire black dragons [email protected]
I have these stick for al long time now and it looks like the sabertooth loves them.
With BIOS 813 this was not possible at all ,running with four 2GB sticks



Its prime and memtest stable at 1.6V


----------



## ZOXZX

So, you're using 901 now?

Can u give AIDA RAM latency?

Thanx!


----------



## truckerguy

Welcome back THC Butterz


----------



## Speedy-j

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZOXZX*
> 
> So, you're using 901 now?
> Can u give AIDA RAM latency?
> Thanx!


Sure here is the picture ,there are some programs running in the background but its oke








BIOS is a modded one from this forum ,it gives ssd raid 0 a huge boost. the rest of it is stock 901 BIOS


----------



## ZOXZX

Thanx for the info.

I've been wondering is CL9-10 at 2000+ MHz worth going for ...
Currently running [email protected] and get low 37 ns, but it's on PHII.
Will do tests when I finish current project.

BTW, do you have a single SSD drive to check performance changes with new RAID ROM?


----------



## brad6969

187nick only thing i could think of is installing all up to date drivers etc from the cd the mb came with


----------



## Speedy-j

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZOXZX*
> 
> Thanx for the info.
> I've been wondering is CL9-10 at 2000+ MHz worth going for ...
> Currently running [email protected] and get low 37 ns, but it's on PHII.
> Will do tests when I finish current project.
> BTW, do you have a single SSD drive to check performance changes with new RAID ROM?


I do not have a single ssd in my system ,i could borrow my wifes ssd.
It is a kingston ssd now v100 i think.
My two corsairs nova64 benshmark is in this http://www.overclock.net/t/1225517/dl-sabertooth-990fx-bios-901-with-updated-raid-rom-latest-raid-driver/10 topic.
I am happy with the results from those old ssd's.
Edit:
I changed tRC to 40 and cas 8, tRP 8,it did help


----------



## AMDfanAMD

Just ordered mine today, it will be here Tuesday!! So excited!!!


----------



## Speedy-j

Great! what for cpu are you going to use ?


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedy-j*
> 
> I do not have a single ssd in my system ,i could borrow my wifes ssd.
> It is a kingston ssd now v100 i think.
> My two corsairs nova64 benshmark is in this http://www.overclock.net/t/1225517/dl-sabertooth-990fx-bios-901-with-updated-raid-rom-latest-raid-driver/10 topic.
> I am happy with the results from those old ssd's.
> Edit:
> I changed tRC to 40 and cas 8, tRP 8,it did help


I am using that modded bios also. Great speed increases with my drives too. I'm surprised that the bios hasn't received more attention.


----------



## Speedy-j

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sequoia464*
> 
> I am using that modded bios also. Great speed increases with my drives too. I'm surprised that the bios hasn't received more attention.


The BIOS gure should have more credit for his work ,he is helping allot of people.
I understand that flashing modded BIOS is a risk but with good BIOS programmers/people its nothing to be afraid of.


----------



## addz17

I have been recently getting this irritating high pitched squeel when i have a mouse plugged in to any usb port. Theres a constant noise and if you move the mouse it changes pitch. Ive tried 3 different mice so far and it appears to be the fault of the mobo. I also stuck in a dedicated sound card to see if that resolved the problem...but it didnt. Am i just going to have to live with this? AHHHH


----------



## Speedy-j

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *addz17*
> 
> I have been recently getting this irritating high pitched squeel when i have a mouse plugged in to any usb port. Theres a constant noise and if you move the mouse it changes pitch. Ive tried 3 different mice so far and it appears to be the fault of the mobo. I also stuck in a dedicated sound card to see if that resolved the problem...but it didnt. Am i just going to have to live with this? AHHHH


I think your problem is the PSU ,it has some coils in it that could make this strange noice.
In the old days we put some elastick band round the coil and a drop of superglue and the whining sound dissapeared..


----------



## addz17

Why would having a mouse plugged in cause it? Under no other circumstances has the tx650 ever made peep. I get the feeling superglue and elastic bands might void my warrenty lol


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *addz17*
> 
> Why would having a mouse plugged in cause it? Under no other circumstances has the tx650 ever made peep. I get the feeling superglue and elastic bands might void my warrenty lol


Yes they will. Does it happen on every USB port?


----------



## addz17

Afraid so :s


----------



## Captain Nemo

I'm enthralled with the idea of doing a little overclocking, but have yet to "make the plunge".
MB - Sabertooth 990FX
CPU - FX-8150
SPD - 4 X Corsair CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9

I've tried the "ASUS Optimal Mode" setting in the UEFI BIOS EZ Mode and Windows 7 just BSOD's during loading, so that's not happening.

I was reading the Ultimate Newbie Guide (http://www.overclock.net/t/647482/the-ultimate-newbie-guide-and-general-information-thread), and think I have a good place to start there, but am still a little trepidatious about it.

Any insight as to what settings to do first would be very welcome.



Thank you!
Nemo


----------



## Balboa

I use the CoolerMaster Hyper N520 with my Vengeance and it blocks the 1st slot. I have a V6GT and same problem. Thats why I bought an H80.


----------



## Speedy-j

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *addz17*
> 
> Afraid so :s


I found a video clip on youtube.
Its coil whine in the corsair PSU. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1FdCKZ8qaUU
Does it sounds the same as in the video clip ?


----------



## addz17

Ehm not really. Thats like a broken up croaky sound at a lower pitch. Mine is a fair bit higher and much more constant, an older person probably wouldnt notice and it changes pitch which is dependant on the mouse being idle or moving. I'll maybe try moving some wires about again and shake it about a bit... maybe it will shut up :s


----------



## Solders18

Sounds like you just need a whole new computer


----------



## Big Shabazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Nemo*


Is there something different with the FX chips? Because according to that it says your core speed is 1400 MHz. I have the Phenom II 955 and mine shows my current CPU frequency overall, so I'm a little confused.

As far as OCing goes, if you're just starting out, just crank up the CPU multiplier a bit and see what you can get. If you don't know much about voltages, then just leave that set to auto. And if you can get whatever you try in BiOS to POST, then stress test it to see if it's stable. Rinse/repeat until you get to the desired frequency.

It's all very dependent on your CPU cooler as well. If you're using the stock fan, I don't really know how far you can push it before it overheats and it crashes.


----------



## Speedy-j

Never set CPU voltage to Auto ,just set it to 1.35000Vcore in the bios and leave the rest on Auto.
The sabertooth likes overvolting ,you don't want to much volts on your CPU.
The rest is discribed above my reply,just crank up cpu multiplier and let it flo..

Sorry for my poor english its not my native language.


----------



## Captain Nemo

Thank you Speedy and Shabazz, it took some canoodling, but I think I did finally lock the CPU voltage at 1.35. Now when you say multiplier, in this bios it's called the "CPU Ratio"? That looks like it as the target CPU speed climbs when I increase that.

Will go until it becomes unstable.. I have the Corsair H80water cooler installed. That should handle it.

Nemo


----------



## lanksystreak

can you add me please....


----------



## Big Shabazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Nemo*
> 
> Thank you Speedy and Shabazz, it took some canoodling, but I think I did finally lock the CPU voltage at 1.35. Now when you say multiplier, in this bios it's called the "CPU Ratio"? That looks like it as the target CPU speed climbs when I increase that.
> Will go until it becomes unstable.. I have the Corsair H80water cooler installed. That should handle it.
> Nemo


Yes, there's the CPU ratio and also the CPU Bus/PEG Frequency.
The second one is also how you can OC the RAM and NB frequencies. Just make sure when you use this to drop down the CPU Ratio if you already have it up some, otherwise your CPU frequency will jump up even higher.

Did that by accident once and I get an unstable 4.8 GHz on my 955


----------



## Captain Nemo

Which is preferred, freq or ratio? Does the Frequency give you any advantages over the ratio/multiplier? I'm at 4.1 GHz now, and plan on pushing it a bit more.


----------



## Big Shabazz

To be honest, I have no idea. All I know is that the CPU Bus/PEG Frequency also alters things besides the CPU.

And you have a top-of-the-line CPU at the moment. If you stop at 4.1 I'm sure people would make fun of you









Have you been testing your overclocks to make sure they're stable?


----------



## Speedy-j

CPU Bus/PEG Frequency sets the reference clock frequency from which the processor, memory, memory controller and the HT bus are derived. Adjusting this value allows granular control over these bus frequencies which can then be offset using multiplier control of each corresponding bus to ensure that the functional limitations of a bus are not breached while overclocking the system.

Here is my little overclock on my FX8120


----------



## AMDfanAMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedy-j*
> 
> Great! what for cpu are you going to use ?


im gonna toss my 1090T into it, should welcome it with open arms =)

Alright, who wants to tell me how to get the most of this thing, i will be throwing DUAL radeon 6870's into this board, a Phenom II x6 1090T cpu (eventually O.C'd back to 4ghz, and my 8 gigs of gskill "ripjaw" 1333 memory


----------



## predcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almstsobur*
> 
> I've been using it since day 1. 5.0Ghz OC on my 8150, no issues. It will still throttle if it is having temp issues.


(I _really_ don't know why I'm not receiving email notifications about topic replies anymore. I think it has something to do with the site's flashy new design.) Thanks. I'm not going to overclock anything right now, I just want to prevent auto-underclocking. I've already got spread spectrum switched from "Auto" to "Disabled". My biggest problem right now seems to be the clock. The actual clock, as in minutes and seconds. It'll fall behind a couple of minutes every 24hrs or so, which wasn't a problem with the MSI-790FX I'd upgraded from. It's a brand-new Duracell button cell I've put in, maybe I need to put in a lithium battery. Or maybe the constant auto-adjusting of all the voltages is throwing the clock off.


----------



## pendrago

Hi there! I am for the first time here.
Planning to upgrade to Sabretooth MOBO from my (a little bit old, but still great) MSI 790FX-GD70.

I wonder if you could answer me if Asus Sabertooth mobo supports this drive --> OCZ REVODRIVE PCI-EXPRESS SSD ?

I didn't find any information about it on their list of supported motherboards though "Asus Sabertooth X58 BIOS V0505" (Disable Marvell RAID) is there but it's quite different chip so I just wonder ... will it work on this 990FX MOBO ?


----------



## ZOXZX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Hi there! I am for the first time here.
> Planning to upgrade to Sabretooth MOBO from my (a little bit old, but still great) MSI 790FX-GD70.
> I wonder if you could answer me if Asus Sabertooth mobo supports this drive --> OCZ REVODRIVE PCI-EXPRESS SSD ?
> I didn't find any information about it on their list of supported motherboards though "Asus Sabertooth X58 BIOS V0505" (Disable Marvell RAID) is there but it's quite different chip so I just wonder ... will it work on this 990FX MOBO ?


http://www.ocztechnology.com/displaypage.php?name=revodrive_moboguide


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZOXZX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Hi there! I am for the first time here.
> Planning to upgrade to Sabretooth MOBO from my (a little bit old, but still great) MSI 790FX-GD70.
> I wonder if you could answer me if Asus Sabertooth mobo supports this drive --> OCZ REVODRIVE PCI-EXPRESS SSD ?
> I didn't find any information about it on their list of supported motherboards though "Asus Sabertooth X58 BIOS V0505" (Disable Marvell RAID) is there but it's quite different chip so I just wonder ... will it work on this 990FX MOBO ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ocztechnology.com/displaypage.php?name=revodrive_moboguide
Click to expand...

Yeap! I saw that, but I asked about OCZ Revodrive 1 not OCZ Revodrive 3 - that's (probably) a little difference, right? And HERE they don't say clearly that it will work with 990FX Sabertooth Mobo


----------



## Mako3




----------



## AMDfanAMD

Anyone have any issues with their radeon cards in this board, I just installed mine and am about to do my second fresh OS install to try and fix this

Dual 6870's lastest drivers.

I just wanted to make sure I'm not missing anything.

My current bios is 0901


----------



## truckerguy

the bios is good I had a problem when i when to crossfire of my 5770s I faild to make sure I hear a click when I seted the second card resetted and bam off and runing


----------



## metarox

I'm fine with my 6950 but I'm not on the latest BIOS (no reason to upgrade if all goes well until I get a Piledriver CPU)

Just had issues lately with flashing my 2 Crucial M4 SSD firmware (hit the issue where it crashes every hour) - but I documented the hell out of this one not to forget again! =]


----------



## flyvefisk

http://3dmark.com/3dm11/3011557
3DMark Score P12585
Graphics Score 17116
Physics Score 7625
Combined Score 6264

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2305162

fx 8120 @ 4620 220x21 1.3750v LLC ultra high
2060Mhz on 8gb corsair vengeance cl9 1866 ram
dual 7950 @ 1150 core 1375 mem 1.2v

new to overclocking








is this good enough ?
cpu temp reaches 61C with prime95 after 20 minutes
cooler antec 920 at full speed, should it work better ?


----------



## Speedy-j

Your overclock and load temperature are just great for air cooling!
I do love you dual 7950 ,i'm only running two 5770 but its okay with games my framerate never drops below 25fps in bf3.


----------



## addz17

Figured out what is causing the high pitched whine in my system.... If i use the control panel/power options to disable processor idling the CPU temp shoots up 5 degrees or so and the noise completely stops so,,,, looks like its probably the vrms or chokes on the sabertooth driving me mad and not the TX650.


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *addz17*
> 
> Figured out what is causing the high pitched whine in my system.... If i use the control panel/power options to disable processor idling the CPU temp shoots up 5 degrees or so and the noise completely stops so,,,, looks like its probably the vrms or chokes on the sabertooth driving me mad and not the TX650.


Maybe try adjusting there frequency. manualy set it to like 350 or 400. I've messed with it a bit. didn't hurt any thing.


----------



## truckerguy

I set minw at 425


----------



## MrG pc

He guys,
I've recently put some watercooling on my Sabertooth 990FX.
Any tips on how to get it better? Or what I've done wrong?
I really like it as it is.


----------



## mironccr345

Nice! Where did you get the water blocks for the mobo?

You can def. clean up the loop by getting some angled fittings and if you have enough room in the back of the mobo tray, you can run some of you tubes in the back.
But it looks good as is.


----------



## MrG pc

Thanks.
Got the blocks online here in Holland.
Koolance CHC-122 (MB)
Koolance MVR-100 (MB VReg)
Koolance MVR Heat Transfer Plate, 140mm MVR-PLT140
Do got some things to point out.

In the transfer plate I drilled two offset holes, the standard ones were in the middle (now it fits without any brackets and with the Sabertooth backplate).
On the northbridge block I shaved (or how do I say it?) the bracket so it fits next to the PCIE.

Some photo's for clarification.


----------



## addz17

Messed about with the frequency and it actually changes the pitch of the noise slightly but doesnt get rid of it..... Considering RMA, take it you contact asus and not the distributer?


----------



## Speedy-j

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrG pc*
> 
> Thanks.
> Got the blocks online here in Holland.
> Koolance CHC-122 (MB)
> Koolance MVR-100 (MB VReg)
> Koolance MVR Heat Transfer Plate, 140mm MVR-PLT140
> Do got some things to point out.
> In the transfer plate I drilled two offset holes, the standard ones were in the middle (now it fits without any brackets and with the Sabertooth backplate).
> On the northbridge block I shaved (or how do I say it?) the bracket so it fits next to the PCIE.
> Some photo's for clarification.


Nice rig but you could beter flip over you bottom fan and use it as intake for your graphics card ,trust me its beter that way








I'm dutch to and i like you blocks ,i allready have ek supreme hf, but adding chipset and vreg blocks would be very nice..


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrG pc*
> 
> Thanks.
> Got the blocks online here in Holland.
> Koolance CHC-122 (MB)
> Koolance MVR-100 (MB VReg)
> Koolance MVR Heat Transfer Plate, 140mm MVR-PLT140
> Do got some things to point out.
> In the transfer plate I drilled two offset holes, the standard ones were in the middle (now it fits without any brackets and with the Sabertooth backplate).
> On the northbridge block I shaved (or how do I say it?) the bracket so it fits next to the PCIE.
> Some photo's for clarification.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I would keep a close eye on those chokes since you don't have them cooled any more.
I know there is some one else that water cooled the mosfets and managed to keep the chokes passively cooled with the stock heatsink.


----------



## MrG pc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> I would keep a close eye on those chokes since you don't have them cooled any more.
> I know there is some one else that water cooled the mosfets and managed to keep the chokes passively cooled with the stock heatsink.


Thanks for the tip.
I'll see if I can do something with the stock heatsync.
Didn't know it was important, there wasn't any thermal tape (nor direct contact).
It looked like the sink was over the chokes just for looks.


----------



## Bob"o"

Sign me up!!!!




Lian LI PC-V1100 Silent (oldie but goody)
Sabertooth 990FX
AMD 1090T
ASUS GTX 480
Corsair H80


----------



## Speedy-j

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrG pc*
> 
> Thanks for the tip.
> I'll see if I can do something with the stock heatsync.
> Didn't know it was important, there wasn't any thermal tape (nor direct contact).
> It looked like the sink was over the chokes just for looks.


I would like to know where u buyed the vreg block and chipset block?


----------



## MrG pc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedy-j*
> 
> I would like to know where u buyed the vreg block and chipset block?


Check Highflow.nl


----------



## vartok

Ive asked this a time or two before but never really got an answer, so i figured id try again... I keep getting fan speed warning on 3 of my fans... I have a HAF 932 case and its the 3 220mm fans i get the warnings on. The pop ups are right around 500rpms... now i know the top speed for those fans is 700+- Is there any way it change or disable the pop up warnings? or should i just rearrange the plugs and see if i van get them all plugged into molex adapters


----------



## truckerguy

I don't know for sure but it sounds like the sofware dosent like low rpms do you get the warrings if you unplug the fan if you dont Id say to use the molix


----------



## vartok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> Ive asked this a time or two before but never really got an answer, so i figured id try again... I keep getting fan speed warning on 3 of my fans... I have a HAF 932 case and its the 3 220mm fans i get the warnings on. The pop ups are right around 500rpms... now i know the top speed for those fans is 700+- Is there any way it change or disable the pop up warnings? or should i just rearrange the plugs and see if i van get them all plugged into molex adapters


Did some playing around and hooked the 220s up to an old fan controller i had... fixed 2 or them... but it turns out that one of the fans that was having issues wasnt one of the 220s, it was the rear 140mm.... it bounces from 450 to ~1150 (1200rpm max fan) I changed the header it was plugged into.... same.... looked at the fan speed in the bios (i have all fan controls turned off) and the speed stays steady.... loaded back into windows, made sure the fan management was turned off in AI suite and it was.... i compleatly closed AI suite from the system tray and pulled up the fan speed in a different program (AIDA64) and the fan speed stays stable at ~1100... i open AI back up and it immediately starts bouncing around..... so it looks like its the program messing it up >.>


----------



## DevilDriver

have you set it in the UEFI to not monitor the fan headers?


----------



## vartok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> have you set it in the UEFI to not monitor the fan headers?


is it like the fan-Q or something like that? if yes then i have it disabled


----------



## DevilDriver

no, here is a screen shot, hope it helps


----------



## vartok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> no, here is a screen shot, hope it helps


no, it was not set to ignore... but i changed it to that and it still does it....


----------



## vartok

on an unrelated note to my issue.... lookes like a new BIOS was realeced today..... copied from the asus site:
Quote:


> SABERTOOTH-990FX BIOS 1102
> 1.Improve system stability.
> 2.Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.
> 3.Patch system hanged when use AM3 1090T or 1100T CPU.


----------



## flyvefisk

http://3dmark.com/3dm11/3061423

3DMark Score P12860
Graphics Score 17643
Physics Score 7689
Combined Score 6354

did a few new runs and score seems to have gone up abit

how good do you think this is and how much weight should one put on 3dmark11 scores ?


----------



## givmedew

Please add me to the club.

This is her now I have a 960T running all 6 cores at 3.8GHz (211x18) w/ turbo mode on at 19x not sure if it hits turbo mode but it did when I was at 3.6GHz

Ordered a water-cooling kit from frozencpu.com so the inside will look a lot different in about 2 weeks.


----------



## MiyukiChan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> on an unrelated note to my issue.... lookes like a new BIOS was realeced today..... copied from the asus site:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> SABERTOOTH-990FX BIOS 1102
> 1.Improve system stability.
> 2.Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.
> 3.Patch system hanged when use AM3 1090T or 1100T CPU.
Click to expand...

Just updated can't really tell a difference at all.


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> on an unrelated note to my issue.... lookes like a new BIOS was realeced today..... copied from the asus site:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> SABERTOOTH-990FX BIOS 1102
> 1.Improve system stability.
> 2.Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.
> 3.Patch system hanged when use AM3 1090T or 1100T CPU.
Click to expand...

Only problem updating is that I will loose the custom Raid rom in this modified bios.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1225517/dl-sabertooth-990fx-bios-901-with-updated-raid-rom-latest-raid-driver


----------



## truckerguy

for me I dont worry about updating if it is working I dont mess with it


----------



## phillyd

does anybody here know how i can raise my cpu voltage above 1.55 for a "suicide" run? i want 5.1GHz just to validate.


----------



## addz17

If any of your capacitors or VRM's start squealing like mine and you contact ASUS or Overclockers you will be insturcted to press your CMOS button and udate your bios because they're not gonna let you RMA it. The board still functions so they dont care if its started making a really annoying noise. Any time the CPU isnt loaded eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.


----------



## phillyd

thanks for the tip^^


----------



## sequoia464

Anyone else use 1102 bios yet? I'm not having much luck with my overclock with it. Probably going back to 0901.


----------



## vartok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sequoia464*
> 
> Anyone else use 1102 bios yet? I'm not having much luck with my overclock with it. Probably going back to 0901.


i loaded it, kinna half hopping it would fix my fan issue....didnt btw..... i punched in all my old settings and it booted fine.... but then again... i was running on the old 810 beta...


----------



## Speedy-j

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sequoia464*
> 
> Only problem updating is that I will loose the custom Raid rom in this modified bios.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1225517/dl-sabertooth-990fx-bios-901-with-updated-raid-rom-latest-raid-driver


I have the same problem ,maybe the the guy who updated the roms for 901 would do it again with the new bios?


----------



## Heidi

Already done...


----------



## Speedy-j

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heidi*
> 
> Already done...


Nice thank you!


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sequoia464*
> 
> Anyone else use 1102 bios yet? I'm not having much luck with my overclock with it. Probably going back to 0901.


Found my problem - the bios works fine for me.

I have to manually set my command rate to 2T - missed it when I re-entered my settings.


----------



## predcon

Is that what's buggering up the system clock? I keep losing two minutes every twelve hours. I never had a clock issue with the MSI 790FX.


----------



## vartok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *predcon*
> 
> Is that what's buggering up the system clock? I keep losing two minutes every twelve hours. I never had a clock issue with the MSI 790FX.


try changing the battery on the mobo.... thats always the first step in any time related problems


----------



## Heidi

1102 BIOS (garikfox ver.) works like a dream...essentially, the whole setup works as magic...very happy with this system so far!


----------



## THC Butterz

Glad as ever to see all the sabertooth love... And some of the support here is invaluable... Catching up while I'm at work. Cool about the new BIOS, I'm still on the release BIOS with no issues with my 1090t, and I figure if it works don't try to fix it, but none the less good stuff

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk


----------



## predcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> try changing the battery on the mobo.... thats always the first step in any time related problems


It's a brand new Duracell Lithium cell. I'll change it again, though, and see if anything changes.

Hey, where do I upload a successful "High" setting IntelBurnTest log? I OC'd my FX-8150 to 4.16GHz and I want to show it off.


----------



## dabysk

Hello There. Please add me to the club.

Heres my CPU-z and some other Specs:

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2316189
http://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/crpu8





You can see that this is a moderate overclock, it's fine for me right now.

Detailed Specs:

ASUS Sabertooth 990FX
AMD FX 8120 @ (1400 & 4000)
(Crossfire) XFX HD6870 dual fan ( GPU @940 & MEM @1150)
16GB @ 2133 (11-11-11-30 1,6v) [stock settings] GSKill RipjawsZ F3-17000CL11Q-16GBZL

I'm using version 0813 for now and will upgrade to 1102 when i'll get new hard drives.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *predcon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> try changing the battery on the mobo.... thats always the first step in any time related problems
> 
> 
> 
> It's a brand new Duracell Lithium cell. I'll change it again, though, and see if anything changes.
> 
> Hey, where do I upload a successful "High" setting IntelBurnTest log? I OC'd my FX-8150 to 4.16GHz and I want to show it off.
Click to expand...

u on stock cooling?


----------



## ?Dirty?

hello, i think my thier is somthing wrong with PSU or MB is dieing . When i start my PC all the lights and fans slowly start up , almost like its unable to get stable power.
after a few minutes it able to run fans @ 100% and then i restart my pc so my bois will load and everything is fine.

could there be somthing wrong with my bois setting?


----------



## truckerguy

yes it dose sound like it


----------



## phillyd

anyone know of a bios version (or mod) that will let me raise my v-core above 1.55v?


----------



## truckerguy

I can only get to 1.5 with 130% over setting it will go to 1.55


----------



## phillyd

if i max everything out (extreme, full phase, 130%, 140%...) i only get 1.55v


----------



## truckerguy

same as me


----------



## Speedy-j

No problem here with BIOS 901 and high vcore..


----------



## Jolly Roger

I'm not about to read 2100 posts and my search didn't come up with anything,...is there and OCing guide for the FX on the Sabertooth? I'm still a little green on OCing anything past about 3.5ghz. I found one for the gigabyte boards but they have different names and terminology. Thanks.


----------



## AbKaRy

Plz add me in the club:

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2318594


----------



## Speedy-j

New BIOS 1102 sucks ,i cant get my previous overclock stable with the new BIOS.
No mather what i do the system hangs when CPU is loaded..,Back to BIOS 901 it works great..


----------



## mironccr345

I'm still on first release version 0402.


----------



## Speedy-j

First release is a real Phenom II BIOS up to 705 ,afther that is pure bulldozer.


----------



## CTrak

OK.....I'm on my way.......Parts are coming in and case is under "construction".......gonna totally mod this rig....

Anywayz, here's some pics...



















Guess I'll do a build log and loads of pics to show my progress..


----------



## phillyd

you shud make the case look like your avatar


----------



## CTrak

That is an interesting idea........we'll see


----------



## truckerguy

need some help updating my bios I down load it then gointo bios and use asus easy tune and when I click on it I get the mesage can not read file it isent a EFI file??


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> need some help updating my bios I down load it then gointo bios and use asus easy tune and when I click on it I get the mesage can not read file it isent a EFI file??


You can easily flash them in windows using the asus suite


----------



## truckerguy

asus suite wont load Im on 704 verrion of bios and want to do 1102


----------



## TwiggLe

Maybe try doing 0901 then going to 1102? Also try redownloading the ROM file?


----------



## Branish

I can't use any bios after 0705 since the computer doesn't go into sleep mode properly. Has anyone had their onboard sound suddenly turn itself back on? I'm using the Xonar Essence STX card and the other day I was watching Rise of the Planet of the Apes and suddenly the sound turned off. I checked to make sure nothing had suddenly muted itself, as well as the connections and the usual trouble shooting things then went into the bios and the onboard sound had re-enabled itself. Turned it back off and everything has been fine since. Very strange.


----------



## truckerguy

Ive down loaded over and over and diffrent verssions keeps sayin { IS NOT A EFI file


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> Ive down loaded over and over and diffrent verssions keeps sayin { IS NOT A EFI file


Just makin' sure, you are unzipping the file first, right?


----------



## truckerguy

yes


----------



## Speedy-j

U MUST have AI suite II installed,there is no other way to flash the bios.
I hade the same problem till BIOS 901,afther flashing i could use the EZ flash method without error in the BIOS.


----------



## Mistral

I don't use AI suite or any other software to flash BIOS's I use the utilty in the BIOS and I have no problem flashing them.


----------



## DevilDriver

I had no problem putting the bios file on a flash drive then loading it from with in the uefi.


----------



## BlackIce05

Add me please, http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2326160
or


----------



## BlackIce05

Could somebody please tell me why my ram is not showing up as 1600mhz? I have changed it to 1600 in bios but it still keeps showing up as 800. Am I doing something wrong here?


----------



## Big Shabazz

Have you tried pushing the "Mem-OK" button on the motherboard?

I had a similar issue with a set of 2133 MHz sticks that I purchased and they weren't going to the listed frequencies.


----------



## BlackIce05

No I haven't tried that. I thought that was just for when you were having booting issues, I'll give it a shot though.


----------



## Citra

How many of you are on bios 1102?


----------



## goat

I have a question about voltages. Is my cpu voltage supposed to be the same as cpu/nb voltage?
Right now, I have my cpu voltage at 1.41 and the cpu/nb at 1.25.


----------



## BlackIce05

I'm on 1102 and the only problem I seem to be having is getting my ram speed to cooperate, btw tried memok and it didn't help any. Any other suggestions?


----------



## jshake

I am using the 1102 bios. I have seen no real difference , with the exception that with the 901 bios would not wake my computer with my Rat 5 mouse. The 1102 bios seemed to of fixed the problem.
jshake


----------



## Big Shabazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goat*
> 
> I have a question about voltages. Is my cpu voltage supposed to be the same as cpu/nb voltage?
> Right now, I have my cpu voltage at 1.41 and the cpu/nb at 1.25.


I think I read on an earlier post that this motherboard likes to over-volt if left on the auto setting. Depending on whether you're OCing your CPU and from what I read, you should be okay at setting the CPU voltage to 1.35 or something like that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackIce05*
> 
> I'm on 1102 and the only problem I seem to be having is getting my ram speed to cooperate, btw tried memok and it didn't help any. Any other suggestions?


Was the motherboard running when you hit the button? When I did it while it was running, the computer rebooted and when it went through the POST, I went to my BIOS and it allowed me to up my frequency.
Also, are you reading the frequency in BIOS or in a software program like CPU-Z?


----------



## truckerguy

Blackice 800 is 1600 this is dual chanal so 800 x 2 = 1600


----------



## BlackIce05

Ok now that one makes sense, guess I just hadn't noticed it before, but my clocks were off too. I enabled DOCP as suggested somewhere around 100 pages back, that seems to have fixed it. Thanks a lot for the help, you guys are great!


----------



## tibbs1cat

Hi guys, im having problems with my new Sabertooth board, since day 1 there is a loud, very high pitched noise that 100% comes from the PSU when watching movies or on some web pages that contain videos etc., it disappears as soon as I exit the movie/web page, I use speedfan which is fine until i click the config button then the noise immediately starts up again,
I had all this noise on my previous 3 month old Gigabyte GA890GPA-UD3H until it blew a fan header and I swapped to the Sabertooth, but with the gigabyte it was only heard when I overclocked the CPU voltage somewhat, the higher the voltage the louder the noise, my 1090T at 3.6 with 1.35 volts was reasonably quiet, but even with the sabertooth CPU voltage (or any other voltage) lowered way below defaults there is no effect and is too loud to live with, I've tried a new PSU and still the noise is there, slightly different tone but still there, very bad I know but I've also removed the Video card whilst the noise was there and no change so its not the card, so what is the noise and why does it happen!?
Any thoughts would be extremely appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Ben


----------



## goat

What power supply are you using? It should not be making any noises unless you've been unlucky and got a couple of turds.


----------



## tibbs1cat

Its a OCZ ModXStreamPro 500w, it was bought with the Gigabyte board a few months ago and has made the noise since new, it never bothered me with the gigabyte as i ran the CPU at a low voltage so couldnt hear it, I cant even send it back as I had to extend the 4+4 power cable to fit the sabertooth,


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tibbs1cat*
> 
> Its a OCZ ModXStreamPro 500w, it was bought with the Gigabyte board a few months ago and has made the noise since new, it never bothered me with the gigabyte as i ran the CPU at a low voltage so couldnt hear it, I cant even send it back as I had to extend the 4+4 power cable to fit the sabertooth,


I take it you probably don't have access to a third PSU to try? It sounds like it's probably the power supply since it made the noise even on the Gigabyte board. I had a PC Power and Cooling Silencer MKII and there was no noise. With the Seasonic I'm running now it's silent as well. If you have a friend who has a quality PSU they can lend you I'd give that a shot as it really sounds like it's the power supply. I'm not a proper tech guy so I may be wrong. But with my experience with this board I've not run into any noise issues and I'm running at 1.42V. Aside from the sound of airflow my rig is very quiet.


----------



## Chrisoldinho

Hi all,

Got this motherboard a few months ago and think it's great!

Quick question...

I am running 2 VGA cards in Crossfire in slot 1 and 3 for x16 speed on both. Today I added a sound card into PCI-E slot 4.

Does this mean my cards are now only running x16 x8 as per the manual, as it states in this if you have devices in 1,3 and 4 slot 1 runs at x16 and 3 and 4 would run at x8.

I know the device added into slot 4 is only a PCI-E x1 but it's not completely clear to me from the manual how many lanes my GFX cards now have so thought I would ask









Thanks for any help,
Chris.


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chrisoldinho*
> 
> Hi all,
> Got this motherboard a few months ago and think it's great!
> Quick question...
> I am running 2 VGA cards in Crossfire in slot 1 and 3 for x16 speed on both. Today I added a sound card into PCI-E slot 4.
> Does this mean my cards are now only running x16 x8 as per the manual, as it states in this if you have devices in 1,3 and 4 slot 1 runs at x16 and 3 and 4 would run at x8.
> I know the device added into slot 4 is only a PCI-E x1 but it's not completely clear to me from the manual how many lanes my GFX cards now have so thought I would ask
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help,
> Chris.


Your cards are running at x16. I have the Xonar Essence STX in the 4th slot and my cards are running at x16. If you don't have GPU-Z, download it and it will verify it.


----------



## clubber_lang

Hey guys......first post for me in this thread. I am building a mid-range build with an FX-6100 ( I think ) and the 990fx Sabertooth was the board I was looking at getting. It's a little more than what I was planning on spending on a board for this specific rig. But....with that being said I am going to be doing a bunch of reading through this thread , and I wanted to know what everyone's thoughts were overall n this board? Seems to have some pretty good reviews and so forth.

I've been looking at some other boards by GB , Asus and Asrock......but this one here seems to be a pretty popular board.

Most people in here still happy with their purchase?


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubber_lang*
> 
> Hey guys......first post for me in this thread. I am building a mid-range build with an FX-6100 ( I think ) and the 990fx Sabertooth was the board I was looking at getting. It's a little more than what I was planning on spending on a board for this specific rig. But....with that being said I am going to be doing a bunch of reading through this thread , and I wanted to know what everyone's thoughts were overall n this board? Seems to have some pretty good reviews and so forth.
> I've been looking at some other boards by GB , Asus and Asrock......but this one here seems to be a pretty popular board.
> Most people in here still happy with their purchase?


Very happy with my purchase still.Great board, over clocks very well , has great UEFI features, and looks good.
My 6100 runs a nice stable 4.71Ghz on it 24/7. the vrm sync's keep the vrm plenty cool even under load.


----------



## clubber_lang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *clubber_lang*
> 
> Hey guys......first post for me in this thread. I am building a mid-range build with an FX-6100 ( I think ) and the 990fx Sabertooth was the board I was looking at getting. It's a little more than what I was planning on spending on a board for this specific rig. But....with that being said I am going to be doing a bunch of reading through this thread , and I wanted to know what everyone's thoughts were overall n this board? Seems to have some pretty good reviews and so forth.
> I've been looking at some other boards by GB , Asus and Asrock......but this one here seems to be a pretty popular board.
> Most people in here still happy with their purchase?
> 
> 
> 
> Very happy with my purchase still.Great board, over clocks very well , has great UEFI features, and looks good.
> My 6100 runs a nice stable 4.71Ghz on it 24/7. the vrm sync's keep the vrm plenty cool even under load.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info DD. I'm getting a headache trying to figure out what to get. I'm going back and forth between this AMD set up....or just saying screw it and fork over another $150.00 for an intel build. I'm trying to keep this machine as my mid-range comp.....but damn it's tough! I go through the " Well....if I just spend a little more here , or a little more there"....type thing.....the next thing I know I'm right back at spending about twice as much as I wanted to.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubber_lang*
> 
> Thanks for the info DD. I'm getting a headache trying to figure out what to get. I'm going back and forth between this AMD set up....or just saying screw it and fork over another $150.00 for an intel build. I'm trying to keep this machine as my mid-range comp.....but damn it's tough! I go through the " Well....if I just spend a little more here , or a little more there"....type thing.....the next thing I know I'm right back at spending about twice as much as I wanted to.


although they do eventually add up, the little things by themselves don't really warrant the added price. like ram, there's really no real world difference between 1333-1600-1866, its more for the benchmarking and bragging rights category. same thing with video cards, you get a decent video card, its going to do what you want it to and last long enough while not breaking the bank with a top of the line. i had to do that with mine back when i decided i was going to build one (almost 2 years ago now







) there's certain trade offs that you can do where it will still be super fast but you can still buy a slurpee on a hot day. i would save your pesos too and go amd, intel doesn't justify the extra dinero. BTW, love my sabortooth.







just my







you can take it for what its worth


----------



## clubber_lang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> although they do eventually add up, the little things by themselves don't really warrant the added price. like ram, there's really no real world difference between 1333-1600-1866, its more for the benchmarking and bragging rights category. same thing with video cards, you get a decent video card, its going to do what you want it to and last long enough while not breaking the bank with a top of the line. i had to do that with mine back when i decided i was going to build one (almost 2 years ago now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) there's certain trade offs that you can do where it will still be super fast but you can still buy a slurpee on a hot day. i would save your pesos too and go amd, intel doesn't justify the extra dinero. BTW, love my sabortooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you can take it for what its worth


I'm pretty sure as it sits right now , that my TH10 build will probably be an i7 build of some type and go 1155 or maybe even go with a LGA2011 type thing. But _for this_ build i want to keep the costs low. Just something to play around with until next fall when I build my big one. Sick and tired of not being able to play any of the newer games at all. And I think with a descent 990FX board and a FX-6100 it should keep me plenty happy. I have been looking at the GB boards as well like the UD3 and UD5 and few others.....but I keep coming back to the sabertooth.....just a sexy looking board and almost everyone seems really happy with it.

fwiw.....if this rig I am trying to build performs as well as I think it will , I'll be in no hurry to build my TH10.


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubber_lang*
> 
> I'm pretty sure as it sits right now , that my TH10 build will probably be an i7 build of some type and go 1155 or maybe even go with a LGA2011 type thing. But _for this_ build i want to keep the costs low. Just something to play around with until next fall when I build my big one. Sick and tired of not being able to play any of the newer games at all. And I think with a descent 990FX board and a FX-6100 it should keep me plenty happy. I have been looking at the GB boards as well like the UD3 and UD5 and few others.....but I keep coming back to the sabertooth.....just a sexy looking board and almost everyone seems really happy with it.
> fwiw.....if this rig I am trying to build performs as well as I think it will , I'll be in no hurry to build my TH10.


An FX-6100 is not the most beastly cpu, but I have no issues playing current games with it.
I play WoT which is a cpu intensive game and with high settings I still play it above 40FPS.
You shouldnt have any issues with an FX-6100


----------



## TwiggLe

I'm on the newest bios updated via the bios utlity.


----------



## clubber_lang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *clubber_lang*
> 
> I'm pretty sure as it sits right now , that my TH10 build will probably be an i7 build of some type and go 1155 or maybe even go with a LGA2011 type thing. But _for this_ build i want to keep the costs low. Just something to play around with until next fall when I build my big one. Sick and tired of not being able to play any of the newer games at all. And I think with a descent 990FX board and a FX-6100 it should keep me plenty happy. I have been looking at the GB boards as well like the UD3 and UD5 and few others.....but I keep coming back to the sabertooth.....just a sexy looking board and almost everyone seems really happy with it.
> fwiw.....if this rig I am trying to build performs as well as I think it will , I'll be in no hurry to build my TH10.
> 
> 
> 
> An FX-6100 is not the most beastly cpu, but I have no issues playing current games with it.
> I play WoT which is a cpu intensive game and with high settings I still play it above 40FPS.
> You shouldnt have any issues with an FX-6100
Click to expand...

Just out of curiosity here......I know AMD has the 8120 and 8150 as their top cpus right now......are they planning on coming out with even faster ones than these , so guys on the AM3+ boards can upgrade later? I think the Piledriver cpu's are supposed to be an FM2 socket correct?

Like I was saying....on this machine I'd probably go with a 6100 and maybe a year or so....upgrade? Just wondering how far down the road the AM3+ socket will be around.


----------



## DevilDriver

Yes, they are coming out with newer cpu's, and Piledriver will be AM3+ same as bulldozer.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> Yes, they are coming out with newer cpu's, and Piledriver will be AM3+ same as bulldozer.


from what i read, the piledriver should come out Q3 2012, but with how BD turned out, it could be 2013 before we see the next gen :/
Quote:


> Just out of curiosity here......I know AMD has the 8120 and 8150 as their top cpus right now......are they planning on coming out with even faster ones than these , so guys on the AM3+ boards can upgrade later? I think the Piledriver cpu's are supposed to be an FM2 socket correct?


AMD has continuously postponed the 8170 release. it was originally set for jan 2012, but... amd is on mexico time i guess







The FM2 socket will be the replacement for the FM1 socket (duh) but will stay in the APU lineup. Piledriver (FX 8350) will be AM3+ again.


----------



## ShadowDragoon

So, I'm looking into potentially getting a new motherboard, and this one was pointed out to me. So, I have a couple of questions.

1) Looking at the NewEgg reviews, I've seen a lot of people having some nasty problems with this motherboard. What's the overall experience with it from people here? Issues? DOA? Dying after only a couple months? Or is it just that it's more common for people to complain about issues than it is to post positive content? (I know the reviews aren't universally horrible, but there are enough really bad recent ones that it makes me worry.)

2) Hoping someone could tell me what advantages the Sabertooth has over, say, this MSI board: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130600
They look almost identical, so it's just going to be up to whatever extra features the manufacturers threw in. MSI's big push is that they have military-grade parts, meaning a more durable motherboard, and OC Geenie support. What's Sabertooth's major play?


----------



## DevilDriver

Not sure about current gen, but previous gen MSI mobo's have a lot of vrm failure, known to take cpus out with the mobo.

I have not had any issues with my Sabertooth, its been a great board for me, and even in all the overclocking mishaps with it I never had to reset bios. memok button got me back up and going every time.
For AM3+ the sabertooth is one of the best boards you can get, but it is an enthusiast board. It worked great out of the box for me but depending on your hdw you may have to adjust things to get it going.


----------



## dankvwguy

purchased mine along side a FX-8120 about a month ago. great board and i LOVE the bios layout. its made overclocking an ease. i am still getting used to finding things i need though mainly because its my first AMD cpu in about 10yrs

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2319515


----------



## ShadowDragoon

Honestly, I don't really do any overclocking. The only time I ever did was when I was trying to get a board to recognize my CPU (it was incompatible, though the documentation for it stated otherwise). I'm not confident enough to actually mess with that myself.

That being said, the MSI board has the "OC Genie" support, which is supposed to be able to auto-overclock your CPU. I'd probably try that.


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShadowDragoon*
> 
> Honestly, I don't really do any overclocking. The only time I ever did was when I was trying to get a board to recognize my CPU (it was incompatible, though the documentation for it stated otherwise). I'm not confident enough to actually mess with that myself.
> That being said, the MSI board has the "OC Genie" support, which is supposed to be able to auto-overclock your CPU. I'd probably try that.


The sabertooth also has auto overclock. it has 3 different settings, energy saving, performance, and extreme.

The Asus boards are just much better quality then MSI when it comes to amd IMOP.


----------



## ShadowDragoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> The sabertooth also has auto overclock. it has 3 different settings, energy saving, performance, and extreme.
> The Asus boards are just much better quality then MSI when it comes to amd IMOP.


Hmm. I actually missed that. Newegg doesn't exactly do a great job of flushing out all the cool little features most of the time.

Still, my main concern was reliability. So, I'll wait and see if I can hear from a few other people that have had the motherboard for a while.


----------



## JunkoXan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShadowDragoon*
> 
> Hmm. I actually missed that. Newegg doesn't exactly do a great job of flushing out all the cool little features most of the time.
> Still, my main concern was reliability. So, I'll wait and see if I can hear from a few other people that have had the motherboard for a while.


my sabertooth's been through hell in terms of Power Surges and PSU Backfires ect.. still running like nothing happened







i really enjoy the durability and reliability of the 990FX Sabertooth


----------



## vartok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShadowDragoon*
> 
> Hmm. I actually missed that. Newegg doesn't exactly do a great job of flushing out all the cool little features most of the time.
> Still, my main concern was reliability. So, I'll wait and see if I can hear from a few other people that have had the motherboard for a while.


well, i bought mine 9/24/2011. and the only real issue ive had is not with the board but with the AI suite... keeps messing with my fan speeds randomly when they should all be on max... but if i close the software, it works fine, so its not really that big of a deal.


----------



## Tumdace

Just got this board for a server machine, quick question:

Ive got an Agility 3 6gbps SSD, as well as 2x1TB WD Black drives (in Raid 1).

Since when setting Sata 1-4 to RAID it automatically sets 5-6 to RAID as well, will I still get 6gbps speeds out of the SSD? Ive just never set up an SSD that connected to a RAID controller and was unsure if RAID limited you to 3gbps or not?


----------



## Mistral

I currently have 3 Sabertooth boards they all work great, I actually replaced a Crosshair V with one, I got sick and tired of RMA'ing the Crosshair V it took 4 months before I got one that worked but the Sabertooths have all worked fine straight out of the box.


----------



## Branish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> I currently have 3 Sabertooth boards they all work great, I actually replaced a Crosshair V with one, I got sick and tired of RMA'ing the Crosshair V it took 4 months before I got one that worked but the Sabertooths have all worked fine straight out of the box.


I was originally going to buy the Crosshair V but read too many user reviews about them being DOA so I went with the Sabertooth and have not regretted it. Love this board. The case sticker is awesome too.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> I was originally going to buy the Crosshair V but read too many user reviews about them being DOA so I went with the Sabertooth and have not regretted it. Love this board. The case sticker is awesome too.


Agreed. I just wished they used intel lan instead of realtek.


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Agreed. I just wished they used intel lan instead of realtek.


does the intel sabertooth line even get intel lan?
I wish the 990FX had the same thermal shield that the intel sabertooth's have. I love the way the sabertooth 990fx looks but that shield on the intel mobo is just damn sexy


----------



## firestorm1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> does the intel sabertooth line even get intel lan?
> I wish the 990FX had the same thermal shield that the intel sabertooth's have. I love the way the sabertooth 990fx looks but that shield on the intel mobo is just damn sexy


yes.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> does the intel sabertooth line even get intel lan?
> I wish the 990FX had the same thermal shield that the intel sabertooth's have. I love the way the sabertooth 990fx looks but that shield on the intel mobo is just damn sexy


No idea, but the CVF got it.


----------



## ZOXZX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tumdace*
> 
> Just got this board for a server machine, quick question:
> Ive got an Agility 3 6gbps SSD, as well as 2x1TB WD Black drives (in Raid 1).
> Since when setting Sata 1-4 to RAID it automatically sets 5-6 to RAID as well, will I still get 6gbps speeds out of the SSD? Ive just never set up an SSD that connected to a RAID controller and was unsure if RAID limited you to 3gbps or not?


You can set ports 5 and 6 to be non RAID.

When working in RAID mode, SSD works slower. I've lost around 100 MBps (speed dropped to around 400 MBps so yes, 6gbps is working fine).
It is recommended to use one of the modified BIOSes if you don't want to use W7 software mirroring (which BTW works very well).


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Still, my main concern was reliability. So, I'll wait and see if I can hear from a few other people that have had the motherboard for a while.


My buddy had an MSI GD70 board last year and hated it. it was way harder to change the settings in it than my ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3. he was also always having stability problems with it too where mine was still rock solid. i could always overclock higher on my board then he could on his too. we have since both gotten new boards. i went with the Sabortooth and he went with (surprise surprise) Crosshair V. ditch the MSI and get an ASUS board. the only problem i have ever had with asus is the sound went out on my last board. I RMA'd it, got it replaced, and still have it. I have built 5 computers now with ASUS MB's and mine is the only one to have any sort of problem, and minor at that.


----------



## ShadowDragoon

I've used an MSI board before, and not had any issues with it. Hell, I've had a LOT of different brands of motherboards. But, this will be my biggest motherboard purchase since my first build about five years ago, so I want to make sure I'm not going to spend this much money just to have it crap out on me.

That being said, you guys are definitely making a good argument for the Sabertooth. I'm just about sold on it. Now, to make a list of what REALLY needs upgraded with my tax return...

*sigh* Motherboard, graphics card, SSD, new power supply (not that I need it, but it's modular!)...


----------



## Tumdace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZOXZX*
> 
> You can set ports 5 and 6 to be non RAID.
> When working in RAID mode, SSD works slower. I've lost around 100 MBps (speed dropped to around 400 MBps so yes, 6gbps is working fine).
> It is recommended to use one of the modified BIOSes if you don't want to use W7 software mirroring (which BTW works very well).


Im actually trying to put Small Business Server 2011 on it, and when I set 1-4 raid, 5-6 can only be RAID or IDE. I want it to be AHCI.

Also having a problem where since its set to raid, I need a raid driver upon windows install.

I downloaded the Win 7 64-bit AHCI driver,and it does let me continue, but upon the computer restarting, I get the "Insert system boot disk, press any key to continue" error.

Never actually found a section for Server 2011 software.

I need my 2x1TB to be raided, and my SSD and DVD burner to be seperately on AHCI. Is that BIOS thats linked the best one to do what I need it to?


----------



## ShadowDragoon

Can you put your SSD and burner on 1 & 2, then move everything that needs RAID down to 3 - 6?

I don't know if that will work for your situation, but that's how I had to configure it with another board I own.


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tumdace*
> 
> Is that BIOS thats linked the best one to do what I need it to?


I'm using that bios - what it does is enable caching in raid with the modified raid rom. It gave me a healthy boost in speed with my SSD's that are in raid0. Why Asus doesn't include it in their standard bios is beyond me - I understand that Gigabyte and MSI have this on certain boards (not certain about this though).

On your other issue, I'm not really certain about speeds, but I think that since raid is a subset of AHCI you should be fine with the setup you are talking about. I think that a singe SATA III drive on the sata ports defaults to AHCI if not enabled in the raid rom, and should be running at SATA III speeds. Hopefully someone can either correct or confirm this.

My only Sata III drives are in a raid0 setup so I can't really test it though.


----------



## ZOXZX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tumdace*
> 
> Im actually trying to put Small Business Server 2011 on it, and when I set 1-4 raid, 5-6 can only be RAID or IDE. I want it to be AHCI.
> Also having a problem where since its set to raid, I need a raid driver upon windows install.
> I downloaded the Win 7 64-bit AHCI driver,and it does let me continue, but upon the computer restarting, I get the "Insert system boot disk, press any key to continue" error.
> Never actually found a section for Server 2011 software.
> I need my 2x1TB to be raided, and my SSD and DVD burner to be seperately on AHCI. Is that BIOS thats linked the best one to do what I need it to?


If non-RAID member disks are attached to RAID controller then they work in AHCI mode.
As for the driver: during Windows install you have to pick driver TWICE - once for RAID members and once for AHCI (thank MS).
As for *insert system ...* error - please check drive priorities in BIOS. If driver is accepted by Win installation it will boot from it.

Server 2011 is actually based on Windows Server 2008 R2 which is based on Windows 7.
All drivers should be exchangable between OSes.

Yes, BIOSes linked on that page have newer RAID ROM for SB950 controller.
Without it I get below single disk speeds in RAID 5 and SSD doesn't achieve full speed.

Sata3 devices operate in Sata3 mode on all ports.

You can check status with RAID Xpert tool.


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tumdace*
> 
> I downloaded the Win 7 64-bit AHCI driver,and it does let me continue, but upon the computer restarting, I get the "Insert system boot disk, press any key to continue" error.
> Never actually found a section for Server 2011 software.
> I need my 2x1TB to be raided, and my SSD and DVD burner to be seperately on AHCI. Is that BIOS thats linked the best one to do what I need it to?


for raid you need the raid driver and the AHCI driver for AHCI

set ports 1-6 to raid because AHCI becomes part of raid

connect ssd to port 1

connect optic drives to ports 5 or 6

connect hard drives to ports 2-4

before installing the OS disconnect all drives except a dvd and the drive that is for the OS

then you need to install the OS on the boot drive

then set the bios to boot from the boot drive

reset and boot to OS

shout down and reconnect your other drives


----------



## jarede312

add me!


----------



## Diamondhead

Ok, I'll play... http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2331968

Cheers


----------



## Citra

Should I be looking at CPU or core temp?


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Should I be looking at CPU or core temp?


Core temp.

X6's have a problem with CPU temps, they're offset by up to 15ºC


----------



## Branish

Sorry this is off topic but seeing Dmanstasiu's avatar makes me have to say it. Lights is so hot.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Core temp.
> X6's have a problem with CPU temps, they're offset by up to 15ºC


Thanks.


----------



## wayup

I bought the Sabertooth 990FX a few months ago, I'm using it with a Phenom II X4 850.
Does BIOS 1102 have the ability to disable individual Bulldozer cores, not only computing units (modules)?
This information is critical to my upgrade, I'm going to buy a Phenom II X6 1100T or wait for a 12 'cores' (six modules) CPU depending on this.


----------



## Speedy-j

I wish it could change multipliers on weak modules on the CPU but it does not,I have a weak module 3..


----------



## wayup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedy-j*
> 
> I wish it could change multipliers on weak modules on the CPU but it does not,I have a weak module 3..


So multiplier for modules is locked. Ok, but is it possible to disable, say, cores 2, 4, 6 and 8 so that I have only one core enabled in each module?


----------



## Speedy-j

Yes this is posible in the BIOS of the sabertooth,but if you disable one module you will miss 2 cores..


----------



## wayup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedy-j*
> 
> Yes this is posible in the BIOS of the sabertooth,but if you disable one module you will miss 2 cores..


Imagine I want to disable one single core. Suppose it is core "4" in module "2" (that has cores 3 and 4). Is it possible to disable core 4 without disabling core 3?


----------



## truckerguy

I don't understand why you want to do that if you feel you have a a defective core if the cpu is less then 3 years old AMD is awsome on RMA it took less then a week to have my 1090T RMA


----------



## -ItsMeAgain-

I have a sort of problem, I have a 960T over-clocked to 4.01 (250 fsb x 16 mult) @1.40v which puts the CPU/Nb at 2500 (1.175) volts. I have previously had it as a 6 core at 3.8 @1.375v (19x200) but heat was becoming an issue to went back to a quad core for temps. Getting to the issue, having this setting with over-clocking through FSB it will not go into sleep mode anymore. Before it would shut down and just leave a blinking light indicating sleep mode but now light still blinks but all fans stay on and it will not come out of sleep mode so a manual reboot is required. If anyone has any insight as to a quick fix or should i just over-clock via multiplier ?? is there any difference?


----------



## wayup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> I don't understand why you want to do that if you feel you have a a defective core if the cpu is less then 3 years old AMD is awsome on RMA it took less then a week to have my 1090T RMA


I want to avoid the FPU sharing.


----------



## racer86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wayup*
> 
> I want to avoid the FPU sharing.


if your trying to avoid the issues bulldozer had with sharing loads on cores download and install the patch from MS the patch effectively treats the 8 core processor as a 4 core with hyperthreading


----------



## agonbar

I have the Sabertooth 990fx and de 8120 cpu, but my ram is a 1600 4gb ram module of kingston, and i'm thinking on changing it, the problem is that the 1866 4gb kinston module:
http://www.appinformatica.com/memorias-ram-kingston.-ddriii-pc1866-4gb-hyperx-cl9-khx1866c9dg.php
doesn't appear in the supported rams, anyone who had tried something like this or knows if it would work?
The idea is to upgrade to 4x4gb at 1866mhz but if i find another build that works better it's fine too.
(P.D: have CF8650 gigabyte OC review)


----------



## Mistral

This ram works fine in the Sabertooth, G.Skill RipjawsZ F3-14900CL9Q-16GBZL

http://www.memoryc.com/computermemory/ddr3ram.html?Standard=PC3%2014900#Capacity=16GB&Standard=PC3+14900&page=0


----------



## agonbar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> This ram works fine in the Sabertooth, G.Skill RipjawsZ F3-14900CL9Q-16GBZL
> http://www.memoryc.com/computermemory/ddr3ram.html?Standard=PC3%2014900#Capacity=16GB&Standard=PC3+14900&page=0


Thanks, HMMM, i searched a bit about that rams and i've seen that they use too much voltage and at the end the mother board suffers it...
Anyone has tried the kingston rams i said?? http://www.appinformatica.com/memorias-ram-kingston.-ddriii-pc1866-4gb-hyperx-cl9-khx1866c9dg.php


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agonbar*
> 
> Thanks, HMMM, i searched a bit about that rams and i've seen that they use too much voltage and at the end the mother board suffers it...
> Anyone has tried the kingston rams i said?? http://www.appinformatica.com/memorias-ram-kingston.-ddriii-pc1866-4gb-hyperx-cl9-khx1866c9dg.php


Haven't heard any thing about that kingston ram, but you shouldn't have any issues with ram voltages on the sabertooth. I've ran my Corsair Vengeance close to 1.6v with out any issues from ram or motherboard.

I would think the kingston would work fine, and the sabertooth has the mem ok button that will force settings on the ram that will run.


----------



## truckerguy

I run my PHY 1333 at 1.65 and over clocked to 1550 on this board


----------



## utnorris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrG pc*
> 
> Thanks.
> Got the blocks online here in Holland.
> Koolance CHC-122 (MB)
> Koolance MVR-100 (MB VReg)
> Koolance MVR Heat Transfer Plate, 140mm MVR-PLT140
> Do got some things to point out.
> In the transfer plate I drilled two offset holes, the standard ones were in the middle (now it fits without any brackets and with the Sabertooth backplate).
> On the northbridge block I shaved (or how do I say it?) the bracket so it fits next to the PCIE.
> Some photo's for clarification.


Thank you for the awesome idea. I got my blocks in and did the same thing, still waiting on my CHC-123 to get here, but I did drill the holes for the mosfet block and it fits perfectly. Thank you for the awesome idea and the pics. Works perfectly.


----------



## agonbar

hmmm ok, so i'll buy the g.skill, any difference between this 2?
http://www.pccomponentes.com/g_skill_ripjawsz_ddr3_1866_pc3_14900_16gb_4x4gb_cl9.html
http://www.pccomponentes.com/g_skill_sniper_ddr3_1866_pc3_14900_8gb_2x4gb_cl9.html

With this, and in summer, an raid 0 sata3 ssd i will fly XD
I tested win7 with de cpu 8120 downclocked to 1Ghz per core, and it was a bit laggy...but it only had 2~3ºC more than the room XDXD


----------



## Tweeky

take a look at these too

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100006519%2050008476%2040000147%20600006050%20600006066&IsNodeId=1&bop=And&CompareItemList=147%7C20%2D231%2D281%5E20%2D231%2D281%2DTS%2C20%2D231%2D351%5E20%2D231%2D351%2DTS%2C20%2D231%2D430%5E20%2D231%2D430%2DTS%2C20%2D231%2D447%5E20%2D231%2D447%2DTS


----------



## goat

Have you considered getting some samsung ram? The 4gb x 2 is out of stock, but the single sticks are not. Should come out to around the same price anyways.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147094&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&PageSize=10&SelectedRating=-1&VideoOnlyMark=False&IsFeedbackTab=true#scrollFullInfo


----------



## agonbar

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100006519%2050008476%2040000147%20600006050%20600006130&IsNodeId=1&bop=And&CompareItemList=147%7C20-231-460%5E20-231-460-TS%2C20-231-550%5E20-231-550-TS%2C20-231-499%5E20-231-499-TS
This if ******* ironical...seriously i can't see de difference.
The problem of the samsung is that it's a 1600 module, and to overclock that....i prefer a ready-to-overclockclock mem, at least i know it won't bluescreen me


----------



## Mistral

I don't understand what you mean about the voltage, the default voltage for that ram is 1.5v, i have several kits of it and the voltage is not a problem.


----------



## agonbar

Nono, i say that googling the only trouble people had with them was a very high voltage







anyway, the problem now its to understand the difference between those 3, all it will be done, i searched but anyone answered in forums


----------



## goat

So you're looking for ram that you don't want to overclock?


----------



## agonbar

No, i know that there aren't native 1866 rams, but it's ridiculous to have my ram(the one i have now) in this mobo(tried to OC and had to reduce the cas to have stability (prime95)) but i know that if now they are using 1,5V if I OC them it will be 1,6V, but now that I know this motherboard it's not a problem anymore. Now i saw the prices and I wan't to upgrade the ram(and at summer's end an ssd) but I don't know which one of those 3


----------



## MrPerforations

i wouldnt do the ram,i would get an ssd first,this pc works well with 1333.


----------



## goat

Well, I don't think you'll find much better ram than samsungs for overclocking, assuming that is what you are looking for. Low voltage, low profile, 30nm, overclocks to 2200 at around 1.5v, less than $50. Only problem is the lack of supply.

Otherwise stick to what you have.


----------



## Mistral

The G.Skill ram is not an overclock it's default speed is 1866Mhz. I haven't used snipers so I can't comment on them but Cadderman uses them in a Crosshair IV. The difference between the two kits is the RipjawsZ is a 16gig kit and the Sniper kit is 8gig.


----------



## hotrod717

Finally started to get some good results with my new Sabertooth and my little ol' 960T. 

Wnt from a Asrock 890FX dlx 4.. The Asrock was pretty solid, but the Sabertooth is really shining in memory speed and higher overclocks.


----------



## truckerguy

looks good


----------



## Tweeky

These G.Skill's are about the best ram available at this time for the Sabertooth

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231451


----------



## MrG pc

No problem, that's why we're here.
I did got a good tip from another Sabertooth friend about the chokes not being cooled anymore.
I now refitted the standard heatsink with some thermal tape on the chokes (with some minor adjustments).


----------



## Ice98

I have this motherboard, but im currently too lazy to post proof....

Asus Sabertooth 990FX
FX-8120
16gb Gskil valueram (thats right )
320gb Seagate 7200.12
XFX HD6870
3x Enermax TB Silence PWM fans (1 top, 1 rear, 1 front)
3x Scythe Kazi-Jyuni PWM fans (2 push/pull on CPU, 1 lower mid for PSU)
Hyper 212+ (installed with AS5, i know its not the best, but im still using the same tube from years ago XD)
Antec P182 modified to fit CPX power supplies
Antec CPX-850 850w PSU, partially modular

i have one set of PWM fans using a PWM splitter to the motherboard, i beleive its the front fan and mid fan, the 2 CPU fans are on the CPU and CPU_OPT header, and the top and rear are on the Chassis headers

this is actually my second 990fx, the first sabertooth i got wouldnt even hit BIOS or give out a beep code so i had to RMA, luckily managed to get another open box and it works like a charm

great mobo, very happy with it, and my PC is ******edly quiet


----------



## blampars

Decided to flash the 1102 BIOS today and windows wouldn't load after boot. BIOS is showing my OCZ Vertex 3 in port 6, but I can't set it as a boot option. Reverted back to 902 bios and here I am. What gives? Am I missing something here? Do I need more coffee?


----------



## utnorris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrG pc*
> 
> No problem, that's why we're here.
> I did got a good tip from another Sabertooth friend about the chokes not being cooled anymore.
> I now refitted the standard heatsink with some thermal tape on the chokes (with some minor adjustments).


Honestly it didn't look like the chokes got any cooling at all from the heatsink, not even touching them. I will look at it again when I go to install the water block, but my initial assessment is they are fine without any cooling other than airflow.


----------



## MrG pc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *utnorris*
> 
> Honestly it didn't look like the chokes got any cooling at all from the heatsink, not even touching them. I will look at it again when I go to install the water block, but my initial assessment is they are fine without any cooling other than airflow.


That's exactly what I thought when I got the tip, but I did notice they get hot.
I even checked full waterblocks, they don't cool the chokes either.
So it seems they are made to get fairly hot and are ok with that.
Anyhow, it looks cool and kept me from the street.


----------



## utnorris

Ok, so after seeing MrG and what he did, I went ahead and water cooled my NB and VRM's. Here is the part list:

Koolance CHC-125 - Requires no mod, but you do remove one of the retaining arms so spacing is correct.

http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=0_29_66&product_id=663

Koolance MVR-100

http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=0_29_66&product_id=736

Koolance MVR-PLT140 - You do have to drill holes in the plate so it lines up with the stock back plate, but then you use the stock back plate and screws to mount it.

http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=0_29_108&product_id=737

Temps are consistent across the VRM's and NB, sitting at 37c. So not too bad. Under stress test they move up to 42c and only vary by a degree or two between the hottest and coolest part Vcore 1, Vcore 2 and NB HT temps. Keep in mind this was only for 5 minutes, didn't feel like sitting around waiting on it.

I will take some later and post them.


----------



## utnorris

Had to use my phone for the pics, but hopefully you can see how I did it.

PICS:











Decided to water cool my PERC 5i RAID card:



Overkill? Yes. Do I care? No.


----------



## LUZR4LIFE

Here is mine

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2357295


----------



## bautrey37

Here's my validation also:


----------



## truckerguy

welcome LUZR4LIFE and bautrey37


----------



## mironccr345

Here's what I'm working on. Getting my FX8120 and Sabertooth for the Chimp Challenge next week.


----------



## truckerguy

looks good


----------



## Mark Meyer

Hey all,
I'm new here with the following *all new* build and with a couple of questions.

First, the build:
Obsidian 800D Case
Obsidian AX850 ps
Asus Sabertooth 990FX mb (of course







)
Phenom II X4 960T Black Box
8-gig of Corsair Vengeance (CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B)
CoolerMaster Hyper 212 EVO CPU cooler
Corsair 240 GT SSD as "C" drive
EVGA GTX 560 non-Ti w/2gig mem
A couple of hard drives for working and backup storage (1-SATA III and 1-SATA II)
ASUS 23" LCD Monitor
Blu-Ray Read/Write optical
DVD Read/Write optical
Windows7 Home Premium

Now the comments and questions:

1. The coolest thing is that I easily unlocked my Phenom II 960's hidden cores and it's running great on *all six* cylinders. Knowing that not all 960T's will allow both or even one of it's extra cores to be unlocked, I'm tickled that mine was one of the good "six core" Phenoms.
I let the bios handle the unlocking automatically with that appropriate setting.
However, I haven't yet played with OC'ing it, so it's running fine, but only at the standard 3.0Ghz.
I'm not wanting to make the system unstable, and I would be happy to push it up to 3.7Ghz and leave it there if I can and it stays cool and stable.
That would give me the exact same thing as a Phenom 1100T running at it's "Turbo" setting of 3.7Ghz, and I would be tickled to have that and be done with it.
Can anyone give me some recommend settings in the bios to get it there? 4.0Ghz would be nice, but, I'm not greedy and don't "need" it that fast if it pushes the CPU to it's limits of stability. I know that it's not just a matter of changing the speed, but also perhaps voltage and other stuff as well.
It seems that you can change settings using the ASUS software, but it appears that it reverts back to standard speed when you reboot, so I want to make any OC changes permanent in the BIOS.

2. The Vengeance memory I'm using is really tall. http://www.corsair.com/us/memory/amd-memory-upgrades/vengeance-8gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmz8gx3m2a1600c9b.html
I'm running two, 4-gig modules in slots 2 and 4 so it clears the CoolerMaster nicely. However, I want to fill the other two slots with another 8gig of memory to bring it up to 16gig total, and even if the cooler fan is moved up, it still won't clear the really tall Vengeance modules.
The question here is whether I can use one of the "standard" height Corsair memory modules and mix it with the Vengeance? I would still have to move the CoolerMaster fan up a little, but only a little to make it clear standard height memory. I just don't want to get in trouble by mixing different memory sticks with the original Vengeance I have.

3. I'm not sure if my SSD is being best utilized by Windows as an SSD. It works fine, but I'm not really feeling the love I thought I should with it's performance. Have I missed some setting in the bios that would best take advantage of my SSD?

4. One little, one-time glitch: I booted it up yesterday and it crashed and rebooted again. It crashed even before it started loading Windows.
On the second reboot, I got an error message that the CPU fan wasn't operating within limits. It didn't report a high temperature; just a low fan speed. When it did reboot, I checked the fan speed and it was running at 597 rpm. Of course, it's a PWM fan, so I'm confused as to why this happened since the bios itself controls the fan speed, yet, the bios is what called out it's own error and rebooted.
It's only happened once so far, but I'm wonder if anyone else has had this happen.
Also, I haven't looked yet, but I thought that maybe you can change a setting in the bios to force a minimum fan speed, but I'll take a look and see if that's possible later.

That's all I got for now. Any help or comments?

TIA


----------



## phillyd

anyone found a way to cover/paint the heatsinks?


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> anyone found a way to cover/paint the heatsinks?


why would you want to... that would just take away from the thermal efficiency


----------



## bautrey37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mark Meyer*
> 
> Hey all,
> 1. The coolest thing is that I easily unlocked my Phenom II 960's hidden cores and it's running great on *all six* cylinders. Knowing that not all 960T's will allow both or even one of it's extra cores to be unlocked, I'm tickled that mine was one of the good "six core" Phenoms.
> I let the bios handle the unlocking automatically with that appropriate setting.
> However, I haven't yet played with OC'ing it, so it's running fine, but only at the standard 3.0Ghz.
> I'm not wanting to make the system unstable, and I would be happy to push it up to 3.7Ghz and leave it there if I can and it stays cool and stable.
> That would give me the exact same thing as a Phenom 1100T running at it's "Turbo" setting of 3.7Ghz, and I would be tickled to have that and be done with it.
> Can anyone give me some recommend settings in the bios to get it there? 4.0Ghz would be nice, but, I'm not greedy and don't "need" it that fast if it pushes the CPU to it's limits of stability. I know that it's not just a matter of changing the speed, but also perhaps voltage and other stuff as well.
> It seems that you can change settings using the ASUS software, but it appears that it reverts back to standard speed when you reboot, so I want to make any OC changes permanent in the BIOS.
> 2. The Vengeance memory I'm using is really tall. http://www.corsair.com/us/memory/amd-memory-upgrades/vengeance-8gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmz8gx3m2a1600c9b.html
> I'm running two, 4-gig modules in slots 2 and 4 so it clears the CoolerMaster nicely. However, I want to fill the other two slots with another 8gig of memory to bring it up to 16gig total, and even if the cooler fan is moved up, it still won't clear the really tall Vengeance modules.
> The question here is whether I can use one of the "standard" height Corsair memory modules and mix it with the Vengeance? I would still have to move the CoolerMaster fan up a little, but only a little to make it clear standard height memory. I just don't want to get in trouble by mixing different memory sticks with the original Vengeance I have.
> 3. I'm not sure if my SSD is being best utilized by Windows as an SSD. It works fine, but I'm not really feeling the love I thought I should with it's performance. Have I missed some setting in the bios that would best take advantage of my SSD?
> 4. One little, one-time glitch: I booted it up yesterday and it crashed and rebooted again. It crashed even before it started loading Windows.
> On the second reboot, I got an error message that the CPU fan wasn't operating within limits. It didn't report a high temperature; just a low fan speed. When it did reboot, I checked the fan speed and it was running at 597 rpm. Of course, it's a PWM fan, so I'm confused as to why this happened since the bios itself controls the fan speed, yet, the bios is what called out it's own error and rebooted.
> It's only happened once so far, but I'm wonder if anyone else has had this happen.
> Also, I haven't looked yet, but I thought that maybe you can change a setting in the bios to force a minimum fan speed, but I'll take a look and see if that's possible later.
> That's all I got for now. Any help or comments?
> TIA


#3 Could you post some benchmark scores of your SSD? For the BIOS, there really isn't any special settings to make the SSD run faster, that is unless you have two of them in a RAID. And for Windows, you can optimize your SSD by using a 3rd party utility such as "SSD Tweaker for Windows".

#2 You really shouldn't mix two different types of memory modules, it might cause your system to become unstable. But if you really had too, make sure that the voltages, timings, and clock speed are all the same.

#4 I have a weird booting issue with my computer where sometimes it would shut itself during POST. But I think its a PSU problem which I'll be RMAing sometime tonight.

#1 I wish I could help on you on overclocking but I really know nothing about it. I'm planning on getting around to that eventually. And why would you put a Phenom II in your computer when the Bulldozer's are available for fairly cheap prices?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> anyone found a way to cover/paint the heatsinks?
> 
> 
> 
> why would you want to... that would just take away from the thermal efficiency
Click to expand...

because they are green, and my build is blue.
also no it does not have to take away from thermal efficiency
ever heard of engine block paint? its meant to dissipate heat.

i want to avoid buying expensive paint, though


----------



## truckerguy

what we are trying to tell you is with the revolutionary ceramics-coating technology! Innovative ceramics effectively conducts heat away from the system. It replaces traditional anti-oxidant to dissipate heat better with its microscopic irregular surface and enlarged area. Better cooling leads to overall improvement in system stability its the same paint NASA uses


----------



## 12Cores

Finally got a Bulldozer for this board, 3dmark 11 comparison between my 1055T @ 4ghz and the fx-8120 @ 4.8ghz. In order to keep the temps down with this overclock I had to put a 80mm in front and behind the Mosfet(back of the case). Great CPU so far should have bought it on day one.

1055T @ 4ghz

http://3dmark.com/3dm11/3030339;jsessionid=7yo8rqgna0lctxafpnlz8l2z

fx-8120 @ 4.8ghz

http://3dmark.com/3dm11/3395363;jsessionid=xtaat2mus9b31c94i8full110

Physics score went up about 1,500 points on this particular benchmark. These CPU's are not as bad as they made them out to be, just my 2 cents.


----------



## THC Butterz

anyone want to help with the spread sheet... Send me a pm

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> because they are green, and my build is blue.
> also no it does not have to take away from thermal efficiency
> ever heard of engine block paint? its meant to dissipate heat.
> i want to avoid buying expensive paint, though


engine paint is not designed to DISSIPATE heat. it is designed to WITHSTAND heat. even if it were used to dissipate heat, the engine block is not designed to do any cooling really, that's why you have a nice fancy radiator in front of your motor. the paint is going to act like a nice fir coat sealing in the heat


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> engine paint is not designed to DISSIPATE heat. it is designed to WITHSTAND heat. even if it were used to dissipate heat, the engine block is not designed to do any cooling really, that's why you have a nice fancy radiator in front of your motor. the paint is going to act like a nice fir coat sealing in the heat


depends on the kind, some engine block paints are made to dissipate heat, i found some once, ill try to find em.


----------



## aardtyllyf

Hi to all of the 990FX Sabertooth owners,

I am a little bit confused with the following: can anyone please confirm that 990FX Sabertooth has the same Power Phase system as Crosshair V Formula?

In all the specs it states that 990fx Sabertooth has 8+2 power phase design, but in reality it has 4+1 doubled design.


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aardtyllyf*
> 
> Hi to all of the 990FX Sabertooth owners,
> I am a little bit confused with the following: can anyone please confirm that 990FX Sabertooth has the same Power Phase system as Crosshair V Formula?
> In all the specs it states that 990fx Sabertooth has 8+2 power phase design, but in reality it has 4+1 doubled design.


I hope this clears it up for you as it says at the top of the mesage ( note 2 ) the boards that are listed as a 8+2* are 4+1 doubled design The boards that are listed as 8+2 are 8+2 power phase design


----------



## aardtyllyf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> I hope this clears it up for you as it says at the top of the mesage ( note 2 ) the boards that are listed as a 8+2* are 4+1 doubled design The boards that are listed as 8+2 are 8+2 power phase design


Hi, thanks for your answer

I don't get what "top of the mesage ( note 2 )" you are talking about


----------



## truckerguy

at the top of the page I linked where it says note 2


----------



## DevilDriver

Direct from ASUS

TUF ENGINE! Power Design :
- 8 +2 Digital Phase Power Design
- TUF Components (Alloy choke, Cap. & MOSFET; certified by military-standard)
- ASUS DIGI+ VRM Utility
- E.S.P. : Efficient Switching Power Design

Sabertooth 990FX is 8+2


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> at the top of the page I linked where it says note 2


you didnt link anything


----------



## truckerguy

ok will try again


----------



## laidback

how do i set up for hot swapping drives.

i have this coming
Vantec EZ Swap F4 MRK-425ST-BK 4 Bay 2.5" SATA 6Gb/s SSD/HDD Removable Rack
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817986007

i want to hot swap them. i looked through the book for the MOBO and some of the sata settings are jibberish to me......


----------



## Mistral

The case should have instructions for the hot swap bays but all you need is a sata data cable from a port on the board and a power cable connected to the bay usually at the back.


----------



## laidback

theres no setting to change in the bios?


----------



## truckerguy

none it will see it when you boot


----------



## shampoo911

i have a question...

does someone here, owns a pair of Corsair Dominator GT 8gb that runs at 2133mhz cas9??? are they compatible with the sabertooth?


----------



## mironccr345

Hey guys, I dont know if this has been answered yet, but Which BIOS version is the best for OC?

I've recently updated my Bios from the first version 0402 to 1102 so I can run my FX8120. But I was curious if any of the previous version are better for overclocking? Thanks!


----------



## Mistral

There is a setting for hot swap on the eSATA but that won't help.


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Hey guys, I dont know if this has been answered yet, but Which BIOS version is the best for OC?
> I've recently updated my Bios from the first version 0402 to 1102 so I can run my FX8120. But I was curious if any of the previous version are better for overclocking? Thanks!


You may just have to see what bios works best for you, but I got my best with and am running 0813


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Hey guys, I dont know if this has been answered yet, but Which BIOS version is the best for OC?
> I've recently updated my Bios from the first version 0402 to 1102 so I can run my FX8120. But I was curious if any of the previous version are better for overclocking? Thanks!


yes this board will over clock ram I can get my 1866 Gskill ram up to 2100 but after that it wont boot but 2100 not as Im on a PH II chip and it hasa IMC set at 1600 but from testing Ive found that the sweet spot for the chip is 1700

The FX chip your runnning has a IMC set at 1866 Ive never had a FX chip so Ive never tested one but Ive read that the sweet spot for them is around 2000 but I cant say for sure


----------



## truckerguy

last post was a Typo it was ment for shampoo911


----------



## Solders18

Is there a way to save OC profiles from the bios to update besides a pen and paper?


----------



## truckerguy

yes in bios under the tools section


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> yes in bios under the tools section


is that the bios back up or whatever? i think i tried that last time but i couldn't get it to restore my settings. its been a long time since i have even looked there. i may have just been doing it wrong


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> You may just have to see what bios works best for you, but I got my best with and am running 0813


That's funny you mentioned that. I've build two rigs for friends, one with a FX8120 and a FX8150. I used 0813 and cranked the OC up to 4.6GHz on both cpu's with no problems. I might have to mess with that BIOS once CC is over. Thanks!


----------



## truckerguy

I whent from 702 to 1102 and Ive gotten best over clock with 1102 but it may have to do with the cpu


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> I whent from 702 to 1102 and Ive gotten best over clock with 1102 but it may have to do with the cpu


It could be the cpu. But I haven't really played with 1102. Guess I'll give it a go before I switch back to 0813.


----------



## rodercot

Hey All,

just swapped out my UD5 for a Sabretooth. I am most concerned with handbrake and I have been playing around with settings for a couple days. so right now

Sabretooth
8150
Vengeance 1600 8 GB 2 x 4GB
Antec 920 cooler
Haf X Case
200 MM fan in front
2 x 140's on top
2 x 140 on rad push pull out of case as per antecs crap instruction.

settings - 4400 MHz

bus - 220
mult - 20
ram - 769.2 x 2 9-9-9-24-34 (3:10) ratio
antec on silent mode other fans running at 40% on my fan controller (all board qfans turned off)
cpu - 1.32500V
cpu/nb - 1.25V
ram - 1.5V

CPU temp with H/B at encoding is 56 degrees idle is 36-39 degrees

I had the system up at 230 for the bus or 4.6 MHz my issues are with prime on blend 8 tests running my cpu is hitting 69 degrees unless I run extreme mode with the cooler but even more is my vcore-1 one is hitting 81-82 degrees everything else temp wise is fine. I would really like to run this at 4.6 stable if I can.

I have no problem swapping the cooler but I cannot run it at extreme, the thing sounds like LOUD

any ideas I am on 1102 bios, everything is on auto and all powersaving is off. Even at 4400 I should be happy I just encoded a movie under 6 minutes at 380 frames a second.

Thanks,

Dave


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodercot*
> 
> Hey All,
> just swapped out my UD5 for a Sabretooth. I am most concerned with handbrake and I have been playing around with settings for a couple days. so right now
> Sabretooth
> 8150
> Vengeance 1600 8 GB 2 x 4GB
> Antec 920 cooler
> Haf X Case
> 200 MM fan in front
> 2 x 140's on top
> 2 x 140 on rad push pull out of case as per antecs crap instruction.
> settings - 4400 MHz
> 
> bus - 220
> mult - 20
> ram - 769.2 x 2 9-9-9-24-34 (3:10) ratio
> antec on silent mode other fans running at 40% on my fan controller (all board qfans turned off)
> cpu - 1.32500V
> cpu/nb - 1.25V
> ram - 1.5V
> CPU temp with H/B at encoding is 56 degrees idle is 36-39 degrees
> I had the system up at 230 for the bus or 4.6 MHz my issues are with prime on blend 8 tests running my cpu is hitting 69 degrees unless I run extreme mode with the cooler but even more is my vcore-1 one is hitting 81-82 degrees everything else temp wise is fine. I would really like to run this at 4.6 stable if I can.
> I have no problem swapping the cooler but I cannot run it at extreme, the thing sounds like LOUD
> any ideas I am on 1102 bios, everything is on auto and all powersaving is off. Even at 4400 I should be happy I just encoded a movie under 6 minutes at 380 frames a second.
> Thanks,
> Dave


An fx-8150 does not run prime95 continuously much above 4250 MHz without better cooling

When running prime95 run all your fans at full you can turn them down when not running prime95

My fx-8150 just puts out a lot of heat that has to dissipated somehow with my air cooler 4250 MHz is as high as i can run prime95 continuously and keep my temps 60C or less

It is sad that the fx-8150 has such a heat problem but its best to monitor and keep all your temps below 60C when running prime95

The fx-8150 needs very good cooling to run at high frequencies


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackIce05*
> 
> Could somebody please tell me why my ram is not showing up as 1600mhz? I have changed it to 1600 in bios but it still keeps showing up as 800. Am I doing something wrong here?


Dual channel memory will always give you a frequency that's half of what it's actually running at.

ex: 667 for 1333, 800 for 1600


----------



## ceaze one

edit:

cleard cmos, problem solved, yayayyay my 5 month old sabertooth isnt broken at all =D


----------



## laidback

i cant get my time clock in my bios to stay what i set it on...why?

when i change the time i do save and exit. but when it comes back on its back to the time it was on before.

how do i fix this?


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laidback*
> 
> i cant get my time clock in my bios to stay what i set it on...why?
> when i change the time i do save and exit. but when it comes back on its back to the time it was on before.
> how do i fix this?


if its loosing time or resets to original factory setting then probably need a new battery

if it sets time ahead then you probably need a new motherboard contact asus


----------



## ChrisAfric

Hello guys! I just recently bought this awesome motherboard! I am now looking for a good case fan that would match this motherboard.

Do you have any reccomendations? The case that I am using is a Corsair Obsidian 650D.

Thanks guys!


----------



## laidback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> if its loosing time or resets to original factory setting then probably need a new battery
> if it sets time ahead then you probably need a new motherboard contact asus


what about clearing the cmos???
i didnt do that when i installed the board. u think that might help?


----------



## Tweeky

clearing the cmos is always a good thing to try first


----------



## laidback

ok. i cleared the cmos...and removed the battery. i did not change the batt b/c i didnt have a new one. the clock in the bios still changed back to another time. almost like a default time. but not 00:00


----------



## Tweeky

go into the bios use F5 to reset to defaults

set raid if you are using raid

set the time in the bios

save with F10 and let it boot into windows and check time

shut down and turn power off and wait an appropriate time (maybe an hour or maybe a day)

turn power on and then the computer and check time

note time difference

maybe it would be good to take the battery to a battery store and have them check it

the battery number is *2032* walgreens have them

question did the date change too ?

*important* the imprinted lettering or writing and/or the *+* on the battery must be visible when the battery is installed


----------



## laidback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> go into the bios use F5 to reset to defaults
> set raid if you are using raid
> set the time in the bios
> save with F10 and let it boot into windows and check time
> shut down and turn power off and wait an appropriate time (maybe an hour or maybe a day)
> turn power on and then the computer and check time
> note time difference
> 
> maybe it would be good to take the battery to a battery store and have them check it
> the battery number is *2032* walgreens have them
> 
> question did the date change too ?
> 
> *important* the imprinted lettering or writing and/or the *+* on the battery must be visible when the battery is installed


will try the F5 idea
not doing raid
right now i'm using ubuntu, but the time is correct on the OS
the battery is installed correct.
the date is correct......
lets give that a try

thanks


----------



## laidback

ok i shut down and rebooted into bios
i did F5 and reset time
ubuntu showed the correct time

before the reset the time read 13:11pm mon 5/28/12
after rest and correcting the time 09:15am mon 5/28/12

shut down for a little over an hour
on start up into bios 14:24pm mon 5/28/12

i just changed the battery
i'm gonna shut down for a bit and see what happens


----------



## laidback

ok i shut down for 10 min
on a new battery
cleared cmos...again
on start up in bios the time read 14:59

the minutes seem to be correct but the hours are off.....

i guess its no biggie, that's just one thing that is bugging me


----------



## Tweeky

if its off by hour/hours then go to windows *date and time* lower right of desktop or from control panel

check that the time zone is set properly


----------



## laidback

the time is correct on the OS just not in the bios.....

btw....I'm running Linux Ubuntu right now


----------



## RJacobs28

Has anyone tried Crossfiring Asus 7970 DCII (The big triple slot ones) on this board? should fit?


----------



## Mistral

There is a new Sabertooth BIOS version 1208, anyone have any info on it?


----------



## mironccr345

^^ cool, thanks for the info. Going to check it out now.


----------



## Tweeky

bios 1208 on asus download

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#download


----------



## Mistral

Thanks I got it from the FTP there was no information.


----------



## Mistral

Seems stable so far, no surprises yet.


----------



## NBrock

I have a question for you guys. Did anyone see how Intel went cheap with the thermal compound on the CPU between the CPU and the copper plate? Do you think that this could be the reason that the FX chips run a little bit warmer then we would like? I know more cores+more watts=more heat, it was just a thought. I wonder if there is anyone out there that would be willing to test this.


----------



## Solders18

so i just updated the bios from 901 to 1208 and went into the bios to reconfigure the boot order. i set the hard drive to boot my SSD first and the optical to boot the blue ray drive first (exactly how it was in 901). I kept getting through the post screens to where it would load the drive to boot the OS and all i would get is the blinking cursor. After many failed attempts to get it to load, i finally just unplugged my external as something to try and it boots up first time. why would it be causing problems when its not set to boot off of it at all?


----------



## Mistral

My system doesn't try to boot my external sata 1TB drive, Have you checked the Hard Drive BBS Priorities option as well it could be set to boot in there? I have a dual boot system and if it is not set in both it boots my second OS,


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NBrock*
> 
> I have a question for you guys. Did anyone see how Intel went cheap with the thermal compound on the CPU between the CPU and the copper plate? Do you think that this could be the reason that the FX chips run a little bit warmer then we would like? I know more cores+more watts=more heat, it was just a thought. I wonder if there is anyone out there that would be willing to test this.


it could be... nevertheless... ivy bridges are WAY HOTTER than fx chips... i have a friend that overclocked an i5 ivy bridge (cant remember which model the chip was) and at 4.5ghz i hits 70°C on load with a hyper212+ and i thought: dude, wth... 70°C and no bsod's???

im currently at 4.7ghz and sometimes 4.8ghz and i dont get NEAR 60°C on load... maybe because i have a TT Frio and Arctic cooling MX-2... still... i think intel's ivy bridge... are all duds...

btw... i downloaded the amd ahci drivers... installed them... and i already got two freezes on my pc... i think AMD and Sandforce SSD's dont get along... if somebody has the amd ahci drivers installed, i advice you to use d MS standard AHCI drivers..


----------



## TitusPrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> btw... i downloaded the amd ahci drivers... installed them... and i already got two freezes on my pc... i think AMD and Sandforce SSD's dont get along... if somebody has the amd ahci drivers installed, i advice you to use d MS standard AHCI drivers..


I had this issue as well on one out of three of my AMD machines and an OS re-install fixed it. The other two took the driver update no problem.

Must have been some software incompatibility one one of my machines. The other two upgraded ok so based on this i put it down to something incompatible on the one that didn't like the driver update.

These were a mixture of 750, 850 and 950 southbridges.

The machine that wouldn't even boot was a 750SB with a corsair R60 (JMicron) where the ones that worked fine were the 850SB which has an F60 (Sandforce) with the 950SB an M4 (Marvell) so i don't think it's a controller incompatibility as we had different SSDs (with different controllers) experiencing the same issue.


----------



## shampoo911

gee idk man.. assuming that amd ahci al already "trim enabled ready", i still think that the ms ahci drivers, seriously outperforms the amd ahci drivers...

boot times were longer with the amd driver
boot times with the ms driver were insanely fast (the windows logo couldn't even finish to gain shape)

is there a newer version for the ms ahci drivers?


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> My system doesn't try to boot my external sata 1TB drive, Have you checked the Hard Drive BBS Priorities option as well it could be set to boot in there? I have a dual boot system and if it is not set in both it boots my second OS,


yeah i went through there and set everything how it should be. and just disabled the external all together but still didn't want to go until i unplugged it completely. and i set it to the same settings as the 901 bios


----------



## ChrisAfric

Hi Guys!

Just recently bought my Asus Sabertooth 990FX motherboard!


















So far so goooood!


----------



## Tweeky

very good


----------



## pendrago

Hi there!
I am new to this thread (I've migrated from MSI 790FX-GD70 thread as I bought my new mobo)









First of all I would like to say hello to everyone on this forum. I have this feeling that I will visit it very often









Right! New *Asus Sabertooth 990FX* seems to be perfect tool for overclockers.
Though, comparing it to my previous rig and mobo I miss a lot of things *MSI 790FX-GD70* had.
Still I can't get used to UEFI Bios. It seems to be a little bit ... I don't know *chaotic* (that's not a good definition).
It's probably because I had been using my previous board for 3 years and I got time to know BIOS and almost all of its features.

I've prepared one screenshot for all of you who owns this mobo. There are a few questions that troubles me and it was more
convenient for me to make it this way.










All those questions I wrote at the screenshot makes me feel uncomfortably because I don't know the answers ;>
If you could take a quick look and try to give me an answer I would be extremely happy









---

Another thing. I've read that new BIOS revision has been released. Having this 0901 (if I am correct ) revision I wonder if there is any kind of improvement
especially if this concerns my 1090 Thuban CPU?
I've also wondered about updating my bios with the modded one with improved RAID Rom version.

Below are the results I got, running write/read tests, being still on this 0901 BIOS rev.

*Read test --> RAID 0 (128 Stripe width)*



*Write test --> RAID 0 (128 Stripe width)*



*Read test --> Vertex 3 SSD 60 GB*



To be honest I was quite surprised with the results of read test of those 2x500 GB HDD's in RAID 0.
They were a lot better than last time I checked it on my old mobo with stripe width 64.
I am dissapointed with my SSD Vertex results. Transfer should be at least 100 MB/s faster IMO.
The 901 BIOS revision has *3.2.1540.44* RAID ROM version and I run on *3.3.1540.13* version RAID drivers on my Win 7.
If I like to change it to this modified revision should I first update my RAID drivers and then after restart upgrade my BIOS
or these drivers are just fine for this mod BIOS rev?

I know that I asked too many questions for the first time - sorry for this long post.
It's just because I am impatient and I want to start my overclocking process as fast as possible.


----------



## sequoia464

Try this modded BIOS. The raid from has been modified to allow read ahead and write back.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225517/dl-sabertooth-990fx-bios-1208-with-updated-raid-rom


----------



## truckerguy

Welcome pendrago I understand that this board can be stagering at frist but know this this board is a beast and once you get a handle on it you will luv it here is what Ive been able to do with this board and my 1090T



that is my 24/7 OC

Ive pushed NB to 340



using just the mutiplyer Ive gotten it to 4.3Ghz



and Ive over clocked my ram up to 2100 Mhz and down to 1100 Mhz but the best part is if you push too hard you always have your menory button sets the board back to default no more using the jumper or removing the battry


----------



## Zippit

Hey guys,

Long time no see! I've seen a few familiar faces here.









I recently (after a year or two) got an upgrade for my system, the sabertooth and a nice FX8120, now I'm clueless with the new mouse BIOS interface and AMD overclocking (Intelfan all my life) Could someone push me in the right direction?

Thanks!

EDIT: Why does the multiplier drop under heavy load? I've set it to 20 but under load it goes down to 14.


----------



## alan760

i got a weird problem over here,
i have 2 hds and 1 ssd, then i went to the bios and change de boot priority in the first screen,
since then i can get to the bios or windows,
with 1, 2 hd, ssd or not, without any hard drives, give me a black screen at boot, only control+alt+del works to reboot the system,
after i take de battery, change the jumpers, i get to the Asus Sabertooth screen - Press DEL to enter bios, but i cant go in, press del, all the keys, and do not work
after while the screen goes black again, whats the problem?

More information,
Boot Device led on
1 short beep from speaker

ps: sorry for bad english


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zippit*
> EDIT: Why does the multiplier drop under heavy load? I've set it to 20 but under load it goes down to 14.


most likely it throttling back because the CPU is getting to hot


----------



## svthomas

I noticed my motherboard temps were getting quite high, and this proved to be an effective solution so I thought I would share:


I just used a Corsair CMXAF2


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alan760*
> 
> i got a weird problem over here,
> i have 2 hds and 1 ssd, then i went to the bios and change de boot priority in the first screen,
> since then i can get to the bios or windows,
> with 1, 2 hd, ssd or not, without any hard drives, give me a black screen at boot, only control+alt+del works to reboot the system,
> after i take de battery, change the jumpers, i get to the Asus Sabertooth screen - Press DEL to enter bios, but i cant go in, press del, all the keys, and do not work
> after while the screen goes black again, whats the problem?
> More information,
> Boot Device led on
> 1 short beep from speaker
> ps: sorry for bad english


reset the board to defaults

check the battery + side up

check that the jumper is on the right pins at the right time see manual

Boot Device led that stays on indicates that there is something amiss in the drives, cables and/or bios setting

check all power connectors


----------



## pendrago

Hello truckerguy!








I have this feeling that I know you (haven't you posted anything on MSI 790FX-GD70 Owners Club?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> Welcome pendrago I understand that this board can be stagering at frist but know this this board is a beast and once you get a handle on it you will luv it here is what Ive been able to do with this board and my 1090T


I didn't know that there is 1095 Thuban version. Could you tell me about differences between 1090T and 1095T ? \
Quote:


> that is my 24/7 OC
> 
> Ive pushed NB to 340


Man! Please! I beg you! If you could just give some advice how did you do that? If you were so kind, please send me screenshot from your Bios and all your settings you used. All of voltages, LLC settings and other stuff. Would you do that for me?
My goal is to overclock my CPU to 4.2 GHz with CPU-NB Frequency set to 3100-3200 MHz.
Quote:


> using just the mutiplyer Ive gotten it to 4.3Ghz
> 
> 
> 
> and Ive over clocked my ram up to 2100 Mhz and down to 1100 Mhz but the best part is if you push too hard you always have your menory button sets the board back to default no more using the jumper or removing the battry


I am not sure if my RAM is strong enough to reach 2100 MHz but it should reach 2000 MHz without any problem. I will be glad if it goes up to 1860 MHz with tight timings. That's all I need









---
Quote:


> Try this modded BIOS. The raid from has been modified to allow read ahead and write back.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1225517/dl-sabertooth-990fx-bios-1208-with-updated-raid-rom


Hey there *sequoia464*!
I didn't know there was an update. Wow! I am already happy with that and thanks that you informed me about that.
I will definitely try that one.
One question... Do I need to change my RAID driver in Win 7 or --> this one *3.3.1540.13 version* will be good enough?


----------



## truckerguy

I may have posted in the MSI section I will do a bios screan snap once I can find my jump drive Im running 1866 ram when I had 1300 I could only get it up to 1550 I have run a bunch of bench tests and found the best setting is 4.0 Ghz ram at 1700 NB at 3100 HT2050 Vcore at 1.42 CPU/NB at 1.30 dram at 1.5 it keeps my temps downI idle at 28c prime load at 48c LLC is at extreame and 130%


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> I may have posted in the MSI section I will do a bios screan snap once I can find my jump drive Im running 1866 ram when I had 1300 I could only get it up to 1550 I have run a bunch of bench tests and found the best setting is 4.0 Ghz ram at 1700 NB at 3100 HT2050 Vcore at 1.42 CPU/NB at 1.30 dram at 1.5 it keeps my temps downI idle at 28c prime load at 48c LLC is at extreame and 130%


OK! I will be very grateful if you could send me those settings (print screen of BIOS).

One more question. Did you happen to notice any irregularity how BIOS indicates temp of CPU?
Running now my system with stock speed 3200 MHz and my temp in BIOS is (probably) sth around 29-30*C in idle.
As I run windows and AIDA or CoreTemp it shows 10-11*C offset between CPU temp and single core temp which is now around 17-20*C in idle.

That's a little bit confusing. So, what is my CPU's real temp?


----------



## truckerguy

the board is soket temp 10 to 13 degress differ from your core temp ie my bios tem says 47c Core temp says 33c for me right now


----------



## WebsterXC

Sorry if I'm interrupting a conversation, I have a quick question. Since the Sabertooth has multiple x16 lanes, can I install my single 6870 on any of those lanes, or does it have to be the top? I'd rather install it on a lower lane and show off more of the motherboard is possible, however I know some boards get angry at you if you try this.


----------



## Tweeky

use lanes 1 or 3 for 16x

other lanes are 8x or 4x


----------



## WebsterXC

It's okay to put my SINGLE card in the x3? I'm not crossfiring, just making sure.


----------



## Tweeky

yes


----------



## Zippit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> most likely it throttling back because the CPU is getting to hot


Within a second? As soon as the stress test starts the multi goes down, not after a while.


----------



## Tweeky

it would take longer than a second unless the cooler is not making contact

i never had that happen to me


----------



## alan760

my problem continue, i take the parts out of the case, put then in my desk, put all together, and still cant go to bios,, or windows, the boot device led is on, i tried with hd, with ssd, without any hard drive, and i cant enter the bios, give me the 'enter bios ' screen, press del to enter, but i cant press,
anyone have a solution for this?


----------



## Tweeky

try a ps2 keyboard

if you use a usb keyboard plug it into a usb 2.0 slot

check battery in keyboard

24 pin power connector

8 pin power connector

and a fan pluged in to the cpu fan connector

1 ran stick

1 *good* harddrive

1 video card

1 optic drive

and thats all

reset the computer with jumper and boot see manual

if it does not work with this setup contact asus

http://service.asus.com/InfoPage.aspx?rid=7


----------



## alan760

i have tried all of that, with ou without harddrives, ps2 and usb,with memory, this problem its weird,
in asus forum , looks like the bootblock its down, so the bios cannot find any device to startup


----------



## Solders18

Its looking pretty with the addiction of White LED's!


----------



## Speedy-j

The new bios 1208 is doing great for me









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2394992

Just a kamikaze shot..


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedy-j*
> 
> The new bios 1208 is doing great for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2394992
> 
> Just a kamikaze shot..


Awesome! What are the temperatures in idle? I assume it isn't quite "stable" :>
Really nice!


----------



## Speedy-j

Thank u the idle temp is 30 degree celcius with C&Q ,load is insane at 5.2GHz 75+celsius.
My 24/7 setting is 4.7GHz with the ram at 1000MHz,i can do whole day stable at 5GHz ,my electric bill does not like that and my wife also..


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedy-j*
> 
> Thank u the idle temp is 30 degree celcius with C&Q ,load is insane at 5.2GHz 75+celsius.


You don't disable C&Q feature while you overclock? Does it help or it is better to turn off this function?
Quote:


> My 24/7 setting is 4.7GHz with the ram at 1000MHz,i can do whole day stable at 5GHz ,my electric bill does not like that and my wife also..


Hahahahaha







I can imagine that









I didn't have time to start overclocking my Thuban and I didn't get accustomed with all this potential this ASUS MOBO has yet.
Could you give me any tips how to start?
I am a little bit worried because now I see that my RAM sticks I have bought recently could not be as good as I expected to overclock :/
What do you think ?


----------



## Speedy-j

I does not matter if c&q is off ore on ,I only do it to save some energy when the rig is idleling between benchmarks ore games.
The CPU has also the time to cool off before i do another bench ore game.
And its not overvolting all the time ,its nice to keep the cpu alive that way








When I play some games i adjust c&q in the energy tab in windows to high performance,so i can play smoothly my games.









Lets begin overcloking your CPU first before we do the ram.
set overclocking to manual
set cpu multiplier on 20
disable turbocore
Set Vcore at least to 1.45~1.5v

The ram divider can be set to 1333MHz to avoid problems with the above settings,leave your ram timmings as it is.
Save and exit and boot to windows to do some prime95 blend test.
After that we can discuss your ram ,maybe it hase some tricks in it before it works properly
good luck !


----------



## Zippit

Whats a safe max voltage for an FX8120 to run 24/7?


----------



## truckerguy

from what Ive read its 1.45 but Ive seen some push it to 1.5 but alot of it has to do with your core temps


----------



## Speedy-j

1.5Vcore should be no problem with good cooling,like truckerguy said its the coretemp you have to beat to gain more table MHz.


----------



## Gamersunited22

Anypnenhad one of these since release? Just started to get pfn and memory management bsods ram checks out fine.... happens maybe once a day... .don't reallywant to rma lol


----------



## Dave001

Hey,

Does anyone know if the Power eSATA connector on this board, outputs 5v and 12v, or only 5v?

Thanks in advance,
Dave


----------



## phillyd

more pics in my Water Phantom build log.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*


what is that right after your GPU?


----------



## phillyd

huh?


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> huh?


what do you have in the bottm pci slot


----------



## phillyd

oh thanks








Asus Xonar DG


----------



## Solders18

the part after the GPU in the water cooling loop


----------



## phillyd

it goes res>rad>pump>gpu>cpu>rad>res
it will soon be
pump>gpu>rad>cpu>res>rad>pump


----------



## Solders18

sorry my quote got a little messed up, long day at school today


----------



## Solders18

That part circled in red


----------



## phillyd

pump, it has a rubber band bc it leans against metal, and tht keeps it from vibrating.
it will be under a cover


----------



## Solders18

thats a pretty small pump.







you could stick it under your SSD


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> thats a pretty small pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you could stick it under your SSD


it is, but the whole bottom will be covered by a PSU cover


----------



## PiOfPie

Yoink.



...I'm going to guess the exceedingly low CPU multiplier displayed is either a glitch or the CPU being in a C6 state...hopefully...


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PiOfPie*
> 
> Yoink.
> 
> 
> 
> ...I'm going to guess the exceedingly low CPU multiplier displayed is either a glitch or the CPU being in a C6 state...hopefully...


yeah its power save


----------



## Zippit

I finally got my bracket from Noctua! (I threw it away because I thought I'd never go AMD)
I'm at 1,35v and 20x200 4Ghz full load for 15 minutes now and my temps arent passing 40c! (I havent applied new cooling paste yet... I still need to get my hands on that!)

How hot will this chip go untill its not safe anymore? My old Q9550 went up to 60 or 65 i believe.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zippit*
> 
> I finally got my bracket from Noctua! (I threw it away because I thought I'd never go AMD)
> I'm at 1,35v and 20x200 4Ghz full load for 15 minutes now and my temps arent passing 40c! (I havent applied new cooling paste yet... I still need to get my hands on that!)
> How hot will this chip go untill its not safe anymore? My old Q9550 went up to 60 or 65 i believe.


62 read on the cores. the CPU temp of AI Suite has about a 10 degree offset. Happy OC'ing!


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedy-j*
> 
> Lets begin overcloking your CPU first before we do the ram.
> set overclocking to manual
> set cpu multiplier on 20
> disable turbocore
> Set Vcore at least to 1.45~1.5v


OK! First longer OC session. Generally I think it was a disaster.
1.452 V to get to 4GHz stable with LLC Extreme profile on ?








Maybe it's just my CPU's fault. Maybe it just doesn't overclock nicely








What is terrible with this board is a lack of CPU/NB Voltage monitoring in OS, during benchmarking or stability tests :/ (besides using digital multimeter).
Oh! Well! I took some screenshots with my settings - maybe I just do sth wrong. Any suggestions?

Intel Burn Test was successful but those temps  What are *Temperature 1* and *Temperature 2*?



*BIOS settings*



Under load there is a lot of voltages fluctuation. In my old rig every voltage was rock stable (besides of course CPU V and CPU-NB V). Maybe this LLC doesn't help at all to make system stable









Like I said... I am quite dissapointed with those results. Right! I am too tired to think about it longer








Please, could you tell me your opinion?
Good Night!


----------



## truckerguy

Temp1= VRM's Temp2= NB try this

CPU RATIO=15.0
CPU/BUS PEG FREQUANCY=258
DDR3=1719
CPU/NB FREQUANCY= 3090
HT LINK SPEED = 2064
CPU VOLTAGE FREQUANCY = MANUAL
CPU/NB MANUAL VOLTAGE = 1.3


----------



## Owen2410

Hi i have had the sabertooth for a good few months now and i love it! but im having issues with my Crucial Ballistix Sport ram (4x4gb) and i think ive narrowed it down to being ram bios settings but nothing ive tried works and its also only 16gb which wont work if i use 8-12 gb it works fine and all the slots work, and all the ram works

i was wondering if anyone could help me figure out the right settings for this board (sorry if im completely wrong with anything this is my first custom build)

any help appreciated thanks in advance


----------



## Speedy-j

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> OK! First longer OC session. Generally I think it was a disaster.
> 1.452 V to get to 4GHz stable with LLC Extreme profile on ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe it's just my CPU's fault. Maybe it just doesn't overclock nicely
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is terrible with this board is a lack of CPU/NB Voltage monitoring in OS, during benchmarking or stability tests :/ (besides using digital multimeter).
> Oh! Well! I took some screenshots with my settings - maybe I just do sth wrong. Any suggestions?
> Intel Burn Test was successful but those temps  What are *Temperature 1* and *Temperature 2*?
> 
> *BIOS settings*
> 
> Under load there is a lot of voltages fluctuation. In my old rig every voltage was rock stable (besides of course CPU V and CPU-NB V). Maybe this LLC doesn't help at all to make system stable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said... I am quite dissapointed with those results. Right! I am too tired to think about it longer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please, could you tell me your opinion?
> Good Night!


This is weird your vcore schould not fluctuate that much , what version BIOS do you use at this moment?
I can remember that an early BIOS is way beter then the current ,its a bulldozer BIOS after version 705.
What is the command rate of the memory at this setting and how many sticks are you using?


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> Temp1= VRM's Temp2= NB try this
> 
> CPU RATIO=15.0
> CPU/BUS PEG FREQUANCY=258
> DDR3=1719
> CPU/NB FREQUANCY= 3090
> HT LINK SPEED = 2064
> CPU VOLTAGE FREQUANCY = MANUAL
> CPU/NB MANUAL VOLTAGE = 1.3


Thanks for your hints!
I've read here --> http://www.overclockers.com/asus-sabertooth-990fx
http://www.overclockers.com/asus-sabertooth-990fx
Quote:


> A quick note, there are two Vcore sensors. VCORE-1 is for the CPUv, and VCORE-2 is for the CPU-NBv. You can see the temperatures on the right picture. Really cool to see how each part of the CPU effects the board. The problem is that there is only one voltage sensor, and it is for the CPUv. I would have liked to see one for the CPU-NBv since it is just as important as the CPUv


So Temp2 is for Northbridge or CPU/NB "chip"? As you could see at mine Aida Extreme sensor panel I have actually sensor which measures temps for Northbride and it was around 40*C under load.
If you could just briefly explained me what settings should I set in *DIGI + VRM* section or should I leave it just untouched ? A screenshot from your Bios would be apprieciated.








Anyway I will try later your settings as soon as I have overclocked system using only multiplier.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedy-j*
> 
> This is weird your vcore schould not fluctuate that much , what version BIOS do you use at this moment?
> I can remember that an early BIOS is way beter then the current ,its a bulldozer BIOS after version 705.
> What is the command rate of the memory at this setting and how many sticks are you using?


Yeap I know that they should be stable. For example CPU Vcore - idle (BIOS) is set to 1.4500 V and it goes up to 1.5200 under heavy load.
I run on the latest version of BIOS *1208* with updated RAID Rom. Does it make any difference ? I thought you wrote a few post earlier that this new BIOS is quite decent.
As I read on Asus website:
Quote:


> *Version 1208*
> SABERTOOTH 990FX BIOS 1208
> 1.Improve system stability.
> 2.Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.
> 
> *Version 1102*
> SABERTOOTH-990FX BIOS 1102
> 1.Improve system stability.
> 2.Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.
> *3.Patch system hanged when use AM3 1090T or 1100T CPU.* ??? <-- what does it mean?


I don't think CR of my memory should be any problem but I run my ram on *1T*. I have 2x4GB Ram sticks and which are seated in DIMM A2 and DIMM B2 slots.

One more question:
How can I change CPU VID voltage from 1.45 ? I've seen *truckerguy* had has it set to 1.375 V IIRC


----------



## Speedy-j

If you are using Thuban X6 you can try the 705 after this BIOS, Bulldozer was released and overcloking was harder on thuban.

look at this http://www.overclock.net/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-990fx-owners-club/1540
quote from first post

I sware i was just think the same thing, but I flashed to 0813 it does seem right plus I had to mess around with my overclock to get it stable.
I was only running 1.536 on the 0705 and now i need 1.546 and now i have to put the MOBO on extreme settings for CPU power phase control.
I know 152 or 151 there a post saying that 901 bios hurts performance


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

HEY WHAT SUP um, im a newbee to this site i wanted to get some valuable info on the asus 990fx am3 mobo
OK im getting this board with to try out the new amd fx chip sets but im wonder if the Hyper 212 Plus from cooler master http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2923 will clear the ram (vengance blue)http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=40739&Sku=C13-5720 i will only be using 2 dims of ram
How many ram slots will be blocked off with the heat sink?? so far all i can say is 1 dim might be blocked off and i will have to use the green pair for dual channel .
SORRY IF I HAD POSTED THIS IN THE WRONG THREAD OR SECTION!


----------



## truckerguy

by using A2 and B2 dram slots you won't be hitting you HSF


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Thanks for your hints!
> I've read here --> http://www.overclockers.com/asus-sabertooth-990fx
> http://www.overclockers.com/asus-sabertooth-990fx
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> A quick note, there are two Vcore sensors. VCORE-1 is for the CPUv, and VCORE-2 is for the CPU-NBv. You can see the temperatures on the right picture. Really cool to see how each part of the CPU effects the board. The problem is that there is only one voltage sensor, and it is for the CPUv. I would have liked to see one for the CPU-NBv since it is just as important as the CPUv
> 
> 
> 
> So Temp2 is for Northbridge or CPU/NB "chip"? As you could see at mine Aida Extreme sensor panel I have actually sensor which measures temps for Northbride and it was around 40*C under load.
> If you could just briefly explained me what settings should I set in *DIGI + VRM* section or should I leave it just untouched ? A screenshot from your Bios would be apprieciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway I will try later your settings as soon as I have overclocked system using only multiplier.
> Yeap I know that they should be stable. For example CPU Vcore - idle (BIOS) is set to 1.4500 V and it goes up to 1.5200 under heavy load.
> I run on the latest version of BIOS *1208* with updated RAID Rom. Does it make any difference ? I thought you wrote a few post earlier that this new BIOS is quite decent.
> As I read on Asus website:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *Version 1208*
> SABERTOOTH 990FX BIOS 1208
> 1.Improve system stability.
> 2.Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.
> *Version 1102*
> SABERTOOTH-990FX BIOS 1102
> 1.Improve system stability.
> 2.Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.
> *3.Patch system hanged when use AM3 1090T or 1100T CPU.* ??? <-- what does it mean?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I don't think CR of my memory should be any problem but I run my ram on *1T*. I have 2x4GB Ram sticks and which are seated in DIMM A2 and DIMM B2 slots.
> One more question:
> How can I change CPU VID voltage from 1.45 ? I've seen *truckerguy* had has it set to 1.375 V IIRC
Click to expand...

you CPU/NB is also your IMC one and the same its inside the cpu


----------



## mironccr345

I wish Ek would make a water block for the this mobo.....would be sweet!


----------



## addz17

Lol Dont feel too frustrated I sold my 965 the other week and replaced it with a 1090t. It performs almost identical to this, it needs 1.44v and load line calibration set to ultra high to make 4ghz stable. However I'm still very pleased with the swap, ended up costing me £25 to do the swap on ebay. Well worth it IMO. Took a few pics once the comp was put back together.


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *addz17*
> 
> Lol Dont feel too frustrated I sold my 965 the other week and replaced it with a 1090t. It performs almost identical to this, it needs 1.44v and load line calibration set to ultra high to make 4ghz stable.


Have you changed anything else besides LLC setting?
On my old rig with PHII 955 BE (I know, it's a quad-core) I could easily run it having 3940 MHz with only CPU 1.36V and CPU/NB 1.26 or even lower. Oh, and with NB Freq set up at 2830 MHz. Of course there were Vdrops but it didn't have any impact on HTRef clck stability. And of course it was much cooler than this.
I have bought Thuban only because one said that its IMC is better and I can OC my RAM higher.

I know, this is other story with 1090Thubans, but do I really need to push the voltage to 1.45 V (1.52 under load) and set almost every option in BIOS which should help to stabilize my CPU on full ?
*CPU LLC* = Ultra High or even Extreme
*CPU NB* = HIGH
*CPU current capability* to 120%









and many more other voltages and options which should run on standard level providing stability.

I will download earlier revision of BIOS and maybe it will work better. Hopefully








BTW What BIOS rev. do you run on?

And those fans on your CPU cooler... what brand is this?


----------



## Mr-Mechraven

Hey all, got mine yesterday







Add me to your fine list sir !!


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Mechraven*
> 
> Hey all, got mine yesterday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add me to your fine list sir !!


you beed added


----------



## truckerguy

Im at 1.45 (1.5) underload my idle temp is 28c underload 47c and yes the X6 is power hungry


----------



## addz17

The cooler isnt one of the most well known heatsinks but is probably in the top performing 10 air coolers and the fans are Sythe Gentle typhoons. Kinda expensive and wierd looking but move massive amounts of air for all the noise they make, best fans ever imo. Here is a couple of links if your curious:

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/120-140-fans-roundup_18.html
http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=2572

Yea, i've pretty much followed the standard procedure ht-2000 NB-2800 CPU/NB 1.25v ohh and dissabled power saving features (not that it really benefited my OC) One thing im a little curious about is the CPU voltage frequency, should i whack it up full or leave it on auto?
Running 203x19.5 at 1.43v just to overclock the ram a little for the time being, I'll continue messing round with it myself but let me know if you figure out how to get a little higher clockspeed without anymore volts!

BTW Latest 1208

Welcome to the forum Mr-Mechraven


----------



## shampoo911

i've been on the forum for quite a while now... will you add me please?

proud owner of a sabertooth 990fx

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2401103



as of today june 10th (local time 10:15am)

will these ram sticks http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007BMDTYO/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_g147_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1GE5D8EPPWPG0CPZW695&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938631&pf_rd_i=507846 function correctly on my sabertooth?


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*




Hi! Could you post screenshot from your BIOS from DRAM Driving section (or whatever it is called









I changed my memory settings to 7-8-7-22-36 1T 1600 MHz (90ns) with 1.56 Dimm Voltage set in BIOS. I have tried to change this for 7-7-7-20-27 1T as my previous Patriots II Vipers PC-12800 could do without any problem but my attempt was a failure.
Then tried to change CPU/NB V to 1.25 V (and 1.30) and Dimm V to 1.65 V without any luck







Is it really impossible for ram that should run with speeds 2000 MHz to run with those timings? How much could I bump up the DIMM V ? 1.7 V would be safe enough for everyday use?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *addz17*
> 
> ...and the fans are Sythe Gentle typhoons. Kinda expensive and wierd looking but move massive amounts of air for all the noise they make, best fans ever imo.


Thanks for your info! I checked them but as for me they are extremely expensive though I would like to have a few of them in my rig








As for fans I have 2 of these Scythe SY1225SL12SH Slip Stream fans installed. They are a little bit noisy but I've been using them for 2 years now without any problems (and noise doesn't disturb me because almost all the time I wear my headphones on








Quote:


> Yea, i've pretty much followed the standard procedure ht-2000 NB-2800 CPU/NB 1.25v ohh and dissabled power saving features (not that it really benefited my OC) One thing im a little curious about is the CPU voltage frequency, should i whack it up full or leave it on auto?
> Running 203x19.5 at 1.43v just to overclock the ram a little for the time being, I'll continue messing round with it myself but let me know if you figure out how to get a little higher clockspeed without anymore volts!
> 
> BTW Latest 1208


I managed to succesfully reach 4.0 GHz with Northbridge Clock 3.0 GHz but it consumes massive amount of power and requires very high voltage.
The latest quite stable setting is this:



Anyway, I am going to change my Bios rev. for this 705 modded Bios and then give my CPU a try


----------



## truckerguy

Im running 1102 V bios


----------



## addz17

Let me know how 705 goes and what sort of temps your getting full load prime95 at 4ghz.


----------



## pendrago

My latest achievement









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2401388

 



BIOS:

*CPU V = 1.475 V
CPU/NB V = 1.375 V
DRAM V = 1.65625 V
NB V = 1.175 V

CPU LLC = UltraHigh
CPU/NB LLC = Extreme
CPU C.C. = 130 %
CPU/NB C.C. = 120 %
CPU Power P.C. = Standard
*

Massive amount of heat and according to Aida Memory Benchmark the results aren't very satisfactionary :/

I got a way better results running this Thuban on my *MSI 790FX-GD70* mobo but over there I had 2 cores disabled, and actually ... I really don't know if it is worth bumping up all those voltages to have 4GHz, 6 cores, power "eater" computer. With 4 cores it would be a lot quieter, cooler and cheaper and in gaming ... will I see big difference? I don't think so.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *addz17*
> 
> Let me know how 705 goes and what sort of temps your getting full load prime95 at 4ghz.


I am still on 1208 rev. As for me I actually use *IntelBurnTest* because I personally find it stresses my CPU much more than Prime95. Under full load it is around 5*C hotter than in Prime95. Eventually I will run Prime to test my memory and overall stability. In IBT it was only 10 passes, so around 40 min. Not to much if you want to say is rock stable. I will keep you posted


----------



## addz17

I'm just gonna run the 6 cores at about 3.9 wuth cool and quiet on, i play BF3 and GTAIV both games appear to make use of the hex core and frame rates are a little better. GTA V will be out soon too and im sure it will benefit from the 2 extra cores. Theres no point having 6 and not using them unless your in dire need of an extra 200mhz or so for single threaded apps.
Unless 705 makes a difference it looks like 203x19.5 (3950mhz) @ 1.43v NB-2800 is the most sensible 24/7 setting for me to leave it on. I'd rather be sitting nice and cool at 52 degrees than pissing away electricity and running on the ragged edge all the time anyways.


----------



## predcon

I'm still having an issue with the timing on the system clock, which is falling behind about a minute-and-a-half every 24hrs. I've tried several different batteries, just to make sure that it wasn't a battery issue. The only thing resembling a complete answer I can get from ASUS support is "It's not supposed to do that", which is a really big help to me and all involved.

Another thing is that the AI Suite OSD will periodically warn me about MB temps dropping to -(max value)*C, and that the +12V voltage is dropping to 3V or 4V (rounded).


----------



## truckerguy

if it was me Id rma the board


----------



## hot noisy calculator

I've been away from the forum for a while, but I'm back with a new pc.

Please add me:



Preliminary overclock on air


----------



## addz17

Mine will give me the odd warning if i have HW monitor/ coretemp or other monitoring software running at the same time as AI suite.... pretty sure its not anything to worry about.


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hot noisy calculator*
> 
> I've been away from the forum for a while, but I'm back with a new pc.
> Please add me:
> 
> Preliminary overclock on air


You been added


----------



## predcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> if it was me Id rma the board


No, I have no confidence in the RMA service dept at ASUS. I already sent one board back because it came with a cracked CPU cradle, and they wanted me to pay for the replacement when I told them I discovered the fault while installing a CPU, and tried to pin it on me as 'Customer-induced damage'. And the '5-year Warranty' is a joke, since it only covers manufacturing defects (not 'wear and tear', not damage from surges, etc), as if it would take me that long to find one.


----------



## WebsterXC

Here's my CPU-Z Validation and picture:

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2403783


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Here's my CPU-Z Validation and picture:
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2403783


you been added


----------



## Vlackrs

Hellow i just got my saberthoot and i wanna try a stable OC.
this is my spec

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2404648 (better info about my pc, my mem speed was wrong i alrdy fixed it 1600)
Asus Sabertooth 990FX (bios 1208)
QuadCore AMD Phenom II X4 Black Edition B65 3400 MHz (17 x 200) V8 Coolermaster by air
Mushkin 991995 (996995) 1600mhz 2x4 8gb by air
Asus Sabertooth 990FX
Coolmaster power supply Silent pro 700w
and ugly case, Centurion from Coolmaster.

Anyone know how to OC safely with not much head?

Ty guys

Btw those PC mobs looks awesome i wich i had the money to get one with water cooling.


----------



## Tweeky

There is a new Sabertooth coming Rev 2

http://uk.hardware.info/news/28286/computex-asus-adds-thunderbolt-to-socket-am3%20-motherboards


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> There is a new Sabertooth coming Rev 2
> http://uk.hardware.info/news/28286/computex-asus-adds-thunderbolt-to-socket-am3%20-motherboards


Oh come on...
Oh well, thunderbolt is pretty useless with SSD prices still so high. At least for consumers.


----------



## WebsterXC

Right as I buy my Sabertooth Rev. 1...

Cool Asus, COOL.


----------



## Cartel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> There is a new Sabertooth coming Rev 2
> http://uk.hardware.info/news/28286/computex-asus-adds-thunderbolt-to-socket-am3%20-motherboards


Quote:


> compatible with Windows 8


Sounds like a downgrade to me.


----------



## PiOfPie

Do you guys have any recommendations in regards to the best ("best" here meaning "coolest temps") CPU fan profile? At the moment, I have the CPU Q-Fan control enabled along with the "Turbo" profile. Is there any better manual setting that anyone has found?

(On an unrelated note, much happier after swapping out the H80 with a Hyper212 Evo; infinitely quieter and better temps than the low setting on the H80. It idles at under 20 and goes to 35 under load at stock settings, and I just applied the Arctic Silver 5 yesterday, so it probably hasn't totally broken in yet, either.)


----------



## addz17

Can you not just select the part of mobo you want the fans to react to and set up an aggressive user profile moving the nodes about?
I found my H50 to be a bit loud too, replaced it with an Aegir also quieter with better temps. Prefer MX-4 myself very similar product but its non-conductive so its a bit safer for GPU's and whatnot


----------



## hot noisy calculator

I've been running my 8120 @ 4ghz (250htt) with 1.3v for about 3 weeks now, I could go higher but my current cooling won't support it.

Just for fun I decided to set my cpu voltage to 1.5 and see how far I could get at this bus speed on multiplier alone.









20x (5091mhz) booted but failed loading Win8. I think I could have got to 5 by bus.

Loving this board and cpu, researching water cooling now.


----------



## Avenger1212

I've built a new system using the 990FX, and it has an unusual boot beep, that I've just not heard on any other system I've built. It has one high pitched (or high frequency if you prefer) short beep. It boots/runs fine after that, but I've never heard a high pitched beep in a boot before. Is that normal for this board?

Here's a youtube video of a guy that has the same beep. It's the first beep, which kind of sounds like a smoke detector chirp. The second beep is more what I'm used to hearing in a normal boot:


----------



## truckerguy

yes that is noarmal also you will see the cpu and ram and PCI slot led light flash red then go out if one of them dosent go out you have a problem with that part of the board


----------



## Avenger1212

Interesting.

Thank you sir.


----------



## BiscuitHead

Just got mine last night! This thing is amazing. I'll add my validation when i get home later. But overclocking on it is a breeze


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avenger1212*
> 
> Interesting.
> Thank you sir.


YVW

yes this board is a beast of a OCer this is how far Ive gotten my 1090T


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakesuellentrop*
> 
> Just got mine last night! This thing is amazing. I'll add my validation when i get home later. But overclocking on it is a breeze


IM CURRENTLY awating for my SBT hopefully i get the revision 2 by now HEY SUP







did u get the REV 2.0 one ?


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> IM CURRENTLY awating for my SBT hopefully i get the revision 2 by now HEY SUP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> did u get the REV 2.0 one ?


AFAIK those aren't out yet.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> AFAIK those aren't out yet.


ok k cool did u do any bios upgrade to get the 1100t working?


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> ok k cool did u do any bios upgrade to get the 1100t working?


It should work OOB.


----------



## Tweeky

banned OOB


----------



## Citra

Wrong thread.


----------



## BiscuitHead

Validation:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2415160


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakesuellentrop*
> 
> Validation:
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2415160


you have been added and welcome


----------



## BiscuitHead

Wicked. I got my 965 up to 4.1 no sweat where it took me like weeks/months to finally get 4.0 stable with my 970 board. Planning on going further once the TIM cures all the way. (dang you as5)


----------



## pendrago

OK! After long trial and error testing I ended up with sth like this:

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2416705





*BIOS:*

*CPU V = 1.44375 V
CPU/NB V = 1.30 V
DRAM V = 1.65625 V
NB V = 1.145 V

CPU LLC = UltraHigh
CPU/NB LLC = High
CPU C.C. = 110 %
CPU/NB C.C. = 110 %
CPU Power P.C. = Standard
*

DRAM Settings = RAM Speed 1800 MHz --> timings: 8-9-8-24-30 1T TRFC=90ns

Well, it seems that BIOS rev. *0705* is slightly better for Thubans, but actually ... who knows for sure.
To get to 4 GHz I needed 1.5 V under load and that's a way too high for this chip.
Maybe it's my CPU that can't handle higher frequencies because I got once *Ph II 955 BE rev. C3 chip* and its performance was outstanding. Without any problems I could go up to 4.4-4.5 GHz on *air*.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *addz17*
> 
> Let me know how 705 goes and what sort of temps your getting full load prime95 at 4ghz.


*IBT* temps under full load 4GHz with NB 3100 were sth like 50*C (but it's per core - CPU temp indicator is quite strange on this board but let's assume that it was sth like 57*C because of temp offset that Sabertooth has).
*Prime 95* was less demanding and it was 45*C per core.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *addz17*
> 
> I'm just gonna run the 6 cores at about 3.9 wuth cool and quiet on, i play BF3 and GTAIV both games appear to make use of the hex core and frame rates are a little better. GTA V will be out soon too and im sure it will benefit from the 2 extra cores. Theres no point having 6 and not using them unless your in dire need of an extra 200mhz or so for single threaded apps.
> Unless 705 makes a difference it looks like 203x19.5 (3950mhz) @ 1.43v NB-2800 is the most sensible 24/7 setting for me to leave it on. I'd rather be sitting nice and cool at 52 degrees than pissing away electricity and running on the ragged edge all the time anyways.


Yeap! I do think you're right. To get 4 GHz this chip consumes a lot of power and energy and boost in performance isn't so impressive.

The only thing I have been struggling with were my RAM speeds and tight timings. I would like to know how much I can overvolt my ram (actually 1.65 V) more? No matter I did I couldn't set my ram timings at 8-8-8-24-30 - always failed during POST.
Funny thing, my Patriots Viper II PC-12800 were able to run without any issues with speed 1600 MHz and timings 7-7-7-20-27 1T or even better:


----------



## truckerguy

the 1090T are power hungry it takes 1.55 Vcore for me to hit 4.4 Ghz this isen't prime stable about all I can do is web surff



this is a stable settings


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> the 1090T are power hungry it takes 1.55 Vcore for me to hit 4.4 Ghz this isen't prime stable about all I can do is web surff


I can see you use Windows 7 x32. Well, when I had been using WinXP Pro overclocking was in my opinion much easier. You could find your max FSB faster and the system was more stable. I've never used Win 7 x32 - maybe that is the problem.

2 questions:
What version of Prime95 you use? --> I use *Prime95 27.7 build 2 x64* (because I got Win 7 64)
Could you post your results from Memory Benchmark (either Aida Extreme or MaxxMem Preview) ?
I would like to compare it with my results.

As I posted before my actual settings are stable in *Intel Burn Test* (maybe 10 passes is not enough... I don't know). I also checked my memory for errors in Windows *MemTest* but there were no errors, so it looks my memory timing and speed is correct.
I can't unfortunately make my system stable in Prime. After 2 hours one of (random) cores just crashes :/

So, maybe I need more volts for a CPU or my memory overheats and then generate errors - really don't have a clue.

One more thing - have you got Channel Interleaving option in Bios on or off?


----------



## truckerguy

I had 7 ultimite 64 bit when I bought this board had alot of isues with it so I had a copy of 7 pro 32 when I changed my ssd I when with it but I belive what was a improvement was a combo of things I upgraded from 1333 ram to 1866 and changed cases from the one you see in my sig rig a mid atx to a full atx with beter air flow my temps droped 10 degress on old ram and case I was pushing it to run at 4.0 I idle at 38 maxed out at 60 now I idle at 28 to 25 max out at 50 and wih LLC maxed out under load Vcore hits 1.6 the 1090T needs alot of power it dosent bother me as long as temps stay down


----------



## utnorris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *predcon*
> 
> I'm still having an issue with the timing on the system clock, which is falling behind about a minute-and-a-half every 24hrs. I've tried several different batteries, just to make sure that it wasn't a battery issue. The only thing resembling a complete answer I can get from ASUS support is "It's not supposed to do that", which is a really big help to me and all involved.
> Another thing is that the AI Suite OSD will periodically warn me about MB temps dropping to -(max value)*C, and that the +12V voltage is dropping to 3V or 4V (rounded).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *addz17*
> 
> Mine will give me the odd warning if i have HW monitor/ coretemp or other monitoring software running at the same time as AI suite.... pretty sure its not anything to worry about.


AISuite does not play well with other temp reading programs. If you are running AISuite, do not run anything else and you should not see any of the weirdness like you have seen.


----------



## LostRockstar

I've definitely got a 990FX, and perhaps without too much digging I could get a quick page jump to, or a quick answer to a problem I'm having..


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2418824

I can't seem to get my memory ram to hit 1600, as should be compatible with the corsair vengeance 2x4GB kit I've got installed. I've tried setting everything manually, and ended with a 9-9-9-24-34 with 1T 1.65V, but on another site I read that I needed 9-9-9-24-41 2T 1.5V. I've tried both now, after having shut ecc memory off, I still can't get the ram to represent itself in CPU-Z, nor Bios or the AI. Does anyone have a tip or suggestion? I'm fairly new to all of this, and my research is only meeting me with failed attempts. I'm using Bios 0901 I believe, on windows 7 ultimate.


----------



## Citra

You could try updating the bios since that worked for me.


----------



## sunset1

thanks. I saw some posts about one of the bios updates. I found some redline 1866 ram with timings and runs on 1.5v Ill try that when the video card i updated shows. 6950.
Sunset1


----------



## sunset1

mushkin responded with this email about my redline 2133 memory

Yes this kit will work with your mobo/CPU

Your CPU has memory multipliers up to DDR3-1866, anything above that will require overclocking.

For DDR3-1866 I would suggest 8-10-9-27 1.65V

Thanks
Sean
so it looks like im fine.
btw has anyone seen the rev.2.0 boards yet or are they not due yet.
thanks to everyone that has helped out. I really appreciate it.
sunset1


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> I had 7 ultimite 64 bit when I bought this board had alot of isues with it so I had a copy of 7 pro 32 when I changed my ssd I when with it but I belive what was a improvement was a combo of things I upgraded from 1333 ram to 1866 and changed cases from the one you see in my sig rig a mid atx to a full atx with beter air flow my temps droped 10 degress on old ram and case I was pushing it to run at 4.0 I idle at 38 maxed out at 60 now I idle at 28 to 25 max out at 50 and wih LLC maxed out under load Vcore hits 1.6 the 1090T needs alot of power it dosent bother me as long as temps stay down


My temps (I am talking about temp per Core not CPU temp) are oscilating within the range of 19-21 IDLE and 35-46 under heavy stress in *IBT*. So I could say they are quite cool








What I have found out is that no matter I do my system won't be stable while running Prime95. It is perfectly stable running IBT 10-15 passes and stress level HIGH and when running LynX 20 passes (the same stress level like in IBT). I've checked my memory using *MemTest* - 6 threads using 1100 MB of RAM each - it reached 300 % and no errors.

Anyway I just don't know - maybe it is my CPU. Just it doesn't have much overclocking potential







Serial number is quite high so I just didn't have luck buying it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostRockstar*
> 
> I've definitely got a 990FX, and perhaps without too much digging I could get a quick page jump to, or a quick answer to a problem I'm having..
> 
> I can't seem to get my memory ram to hit 1600, as should be compatible with the corsair vengeance 2x4GB kit I've got installed. I've tried setting everything manually, and ended with a 9-9-9-24-34 with 1T 1.65V, but on another site I read that I needed 9-9-9-24-41 2T 1.5V. I've tried both now, after having shut ecc memory off, I still can't get the ram to represent itself in CPU-Z, nor Bios or the AI. Does anyone have a tip or suggestion? I'm fairly new to all of this, and my research is only meeting me with failed attempts. I'm using Bios 0901 I believe, on windows 7 ultimate.


First of all try to manually bump up *CPU/NB Voltage* to *1.3375 V* I run my rig and sometimes it gives a little help stabilizing the whole system and IMC.

I have to warn you that everything you do at your own risk.

As for the memory I got Crosair *CMX8GX3M2A2000C9* so theoretically they should be able to run with speed of 2000 MHz (didn't check it though).

At the moment I am at 1800 MHz with timings like this - from the top of Dram Timing Control section in Bios:


You should be able to run your memory at least with 8-9-8-24-36 1T timings.
Which banks on your motherboard are occupied ? Dimm A2 and B2?


----------



## cpcnick

is this thread still running ?


----------



## truckerguy

yes it is


----------



## SmokeyMcBong420

Hi mate, can i be added please buddy ?

This seems to be the highest clock i can get at this time due to full load temps [touching between 56c-61c on hot day] using the corsair h100 in a stripped-out HAF 922 case...



will be getting this beast under a proper custom loop over the next few weeks, really hoping for 5ghz+ for some benchies [maybe with some modules shut down, but will see how that goes] and maybe 4.8ghz+ stable 24/7 ?

i really still need to dial in my methods for bulldozer, as i am currently just using multi's with a slight touch on the htt bus speed. really want to see how much improvement a more focused htt bus and ram overclock at same final clock speed [4.7ghz] will yield.

I have also noticed a lot of talk regarding the cpu/nb speed and voltage for the fx-8120/8150's, are there many of you guys running an FX-8120 / 8150 over 4.5ghz and pumping more than 1.3v to the cpu/nb ? and at what speed ?
currently running ht-link @ 2752mhz , 1.23125v . and cpu/nb @ 2328mhz , 1.24375v

Thanks guys


----------



## Avenger1212

I have a strange sound I hope you guys might be able to help me with. I have a sabertooth 990fx paired with an AMD FX8120. Everything is at stock settings.

I'm getting a high pitched, beeping or whining noise, like morris code, when I have a web browser (any browser) open. It's very faint, and definitely not a BIOS or otherwise warning beep. I took an aquarium hose to try and narrow down where the noise is coming from, and it's coming from 2 spots. 1. The left side of the CPU socket. 2. The right side of the south bridge (I think that's it, the big chip left of the SATA jacks that says ASUS).

I doubt this is browser related, but probably that the browsers hit the sweet spot to make it happen. I think I've heard it when I use the ASUS toolset too. If I close the browser, the sound goes away. Open it, it comes back. I thought it might be process intensive, but it doesn't make the noise on Prime95, nor in a game. I can only hear it because my case is so quiet, but it is annoying when you're surfing the web. It seems these sounds are not unknown to this board, and Asus is offering an RMA. I'm concerned it's just going to be the same thing with the next board though.

Any ideas why my board is making this noise? Seems like someone was talking earlier about setting VRM frequency. Could that help? If so, is it just a matter of setting that in BIOS, and not changing any other settings? I build all my computers, but really never overclock or otherwise change settings, so I'm kind of a noob to these.

I found this video on Youtube that you can sort of make out the noise in, when the camera is in the right spot, especially around seconds 12&13:


----------



## Avenger1212

Well, I tried disabling processor idling by turning on that option my registry as was recommended on another site, and using Power Options from control panel/advanced settings, "Processor power management".

That fixed the weird beeping, and I can toggle it on and off and hear the sound come and go as I do. However, as you may well know, the CPU doesn't idle the same now, and the temps on my processor went up. I'm now "idling" at 47c (used to idle around 41-42c), and under Prime 95 it goes up to 50c under full load. Those temps are still very good IMO for the FX8120, which I think burns at 70c and is guaranteed to work flawlessly up to 61c. However, does not letting the CPU idle wear it out faster? I don't understand enough about that feature to know if it will cause wear and tear on the CPU to disable it.

Thanks for your help guys.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

HEY whats sup came here to find some some useful advice on first time booting the saber-tooth 990fx any thing special to do with those high end boards on first boot?


----------



## truckerguy

just make sure to remove the plastic film off the top of the S/B heat sink


----------



## Sonophos

Add me please.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2423188


----------



## ChrisAfric

My Asus Sabertooth with Corsair Vengeance


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

OMG I WAS HUNTING FOR THOSE RAM u got there ;( all i got was the blue hopefully later on ill buy the black ones because who in earth is coming to see my blue ram lol


----------



## ChrisAfric

why blue? If not the gold ones, black is good too.


----------



## duavallone

Please help!!!

Here's the thing,i have an Asus Sabertooth 990Fx MOBO,i have 3 fans in my pc ,4 including the CPU fan,with the windows BIOS (not the startup BIOS),i managed to adjust the cpu fan and a random chassis fan that the program doesnt tell me what it is,but,i wanted to manage the other 2 fans,BUT THE BIOS WONT DETECT THEM,BIOS SHOWS THEM AS FAN#1 AND FAN #2 AT 0 RPM BOTH,but they ARE working,i can see them working at a low rpm ,please help,i tried speedfan,i tried the actual bios,and nothing,cant detect fans!


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisAfric*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you been added
> 
> My Asus Sabertooth with Corsair Vengeance


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sonophos*
> 
> Add me please.
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2423188


I need you cpuz vailadation


----------



## addz17

I have the exact same issue, and also went down the route of disabling processor idling. It stops the annoying sound but i dont really consider it a solution, its more of a work around with some obvious draw backs so I put up with the noise rather than silly idle temps. My board didn't always do it, only after a few months use. I also contacted asus about it but the didn't really give a damn. Coil whine is normal and acceptable apparently.


----------



## ChrisAfric

@truckerguy - here you go!


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisAfric*
> 
> @truckerguy - here you go!


you been added


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duavallone*
> 
> Please help!!!
> Here's the thing,i have an Asus Sabertooth 990Fx MOBO,i have 3 fans in my pc ,4 including the CPU fan,with the windows BIOS (not the startup BIOS),i managed to adjust the cpu fan and a random chassis fan that the program doesnt tell me what it is,but,i wanted to manage the other 2 fans,BUT THE BIOS WONT DETECT THEM,BIOS SHOWS THEM AS FAN#1 AND FAN #2 AT 0 RPM BOTH,but they ARE working,i can see them working at a low rpm ,please help,i tried speedfan,i tried the actual bios,and nothing,cant detect fans!


have you down loaded Asus sutie? in it is a section called Radar it will tell you the temps on diffrent section of your board also thier is a fan profile section


----------



## shampoo911

here's my valid card


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2421988

add me please


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> 
> here's my valid card
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2421988
> add me please


you been added


----------



## Dhalgren65

Fellow Sabertooth players...
My "Mistress" rig will not restart.
It will shutdown,exit Windows but will sit FOREVER w/o restarting.
Fans running lamps litup,everything.
Nothing.
I can hit "reset" case button & will reboot,
but no automatic restart...
Startup from Off,beep, to desktop 38 seconds.
Reset from button push,beep, to desktop 34-39 seconds.
Any clues?


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

DID U UPDATE UR BIOS i saw u have the 1090 CPU on asus site they have a bios update for the 1090 and the 1100 hang
SABERTOOTH-990FX BIOS 1102
1.Improve system stability.
2.Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.
3.Patch system hanged when use AM3 1090T or 1100T CPU.
2012.03.28 update

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#download


----------



## Dhalgren65

I am on BIOS 1102 now...
It hasn't been too much of a problem,but sometimes I forget-
I look over & Mistress hasn't restarted-AH!,Oh...poke.
Thanks though...


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

OK MAN no probs im awating for my SBT it's all ready bin true customs i just have to go collect it


----------



## lostmybandaide

hey guys, new to the board! just wanted to say hi! can i be added to the club?


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lostmybandaide*
> 
> hey guys, new to the board! just wanted to say hi! can i be added to the club?


I need you Cpuz shot as well


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lostmybandaide*
> 
> hey guys, new to the board! just wanted to say hi! can i be added to the club?


dude... idk if im wrong but.... are you using two different pair of ram kits????

i just felt how 98 baby pandas were brutally murdered, the voice of justin bieber and pitbull in my ears... you should correct that


----------



## munnis

nice build man


----------



## OptimalOvrclock

Add me Please..



http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2428330


----------



## OptimalOvrclock

Quote:


> weak overclock


Yes I am starting from the ground up on the overclock. Hit 4.4 no problem and Games played fine but Prime95 would error on the sixth core no matter how much voltage I pushed. I am working my way up now to see if I can rectify the issue.

Thanks on the build and it took me a while to find a card I could water cool without breaking the bank.


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OptimalOvrclock*
> 
> Add me Please..
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2428330


you been added welcome


----------



## munnis

overclock hell out of that cpu, its so cheap cpu, if it broke rma or buy something else.


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OptimalOvrclock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> weak overclock
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I am starting from the ground up on the overclock. Hit 4.4 no problem and Games played fine but Prime95 would error on the sixth core no matter how much voltage I pushed. I am working my way up now to see if I can rectify the issue.
> Thanks on the build and it took me a while to find a card I could water cool without breaking the bank.
Click to expand...

this tread has alot of info on over clocking the FX chip

http://www.overclock.net/t/1140459/bulldozer-overclocking-guide-performance-scaling-charts-max-ocs-ln2-results-coming


----------



## OptimalOvrclock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> this tread has alot of info on over clocking the FX chip
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1140459/bulldozer-overclocking-guide-performance-scaling-charts-max-ocs-ln2-results-coming


One of the many links I have been using. I have had some descent overclocks on it and no BSOD or any rebooting but when I set Prime95 to run sometime during the 10 hr span I am at work the 6th core just craps out. I am determined to wrap my brain around it.


----------



## truckerguy

that points to a lack of CPU/NB voltage or Dram voltage


----------



## munnis

http://img6.imagebanana.com/img/oj9zjkgt/2012070421.24.54.jpg is these psu voltages normal?


----------



## n9nu

NOTE FOR OTHERS: Asus released a new BIOS update sometime ago. Version: 1208 on 5/29/2012

Hi guys

I decided to try and squeeze a tad more speed out of my Phenom II X6 1100T and received a rude BSOD stating the following:

"Clock interrupt not received on a 2nd _____ processor within the allocated time interval." (I forgot the word after 2nd).

I have been running my system O/C at a stable 4.01GHz for over a year now w/o any crashes whatsoever. What I did was bump the CPU multiplier from the OEM 200MHz to a mere 205MHz to give me 4.10GHz. Not much of a change, however, it seems I need to bump up another value to make this small increment.

Can someone point me as to what value(s) below I should try bumping up to achieve no more than a stable 4.2GHz. Going up to 4.01GHz seems to be at the edge of stability for my system based on the values I am using below. I know there is room to achieve 4.2~4.4, however, it involves modding the values below of course.

Currently I am running with the following (pertinent values only listed):

*CPU Ratio:* 20.0 - CPU is Liquid Cooled - Idle CPU temp of ~40c (per BIOS) and MB temp of ~30c (per BIOS)

** AMD Turbo Core Technology:* Disabled

*CPU/NB:* 2400

*Mem Freq:* Auto

*HT Link:* 2200

*CPU/PCIE SS:* Auto

*DRAM Timing/Driving:* Auto @ 1T

*CPU Load Line:* Ultra High

*CPU/NB Load Line:* High

*CPU Current Cap: 120%*

*CPU/NB Current Cap:* 120%

*CPU Power Phase:* Extreme

*CPU Voltage Freq:* Manual @ 1.4VDC

*CPU/NB Manual Volt:* Auto @ 1.35

*CPU VDDA Volt:* Auto @ 2.493

*DRAM Volt:* Auto @ 1.506 - Corsair 8GB (4GB x 2) 1600 - Vengeance Series

*NB Voltage:* Manual @ 1.300

*NB HT Voltage:* Auto @ 1.20

*NB 1.8V:* Auto

*SB Voltage:* Auto @ 1.0

*VDD PCIE:* Auto @ 1.1

*VDDR:* Auto @ 1.2

*Asus Core Unlocker:* Enabled

*CPU Core Activation:* Manual w/ all 6 cores enabled

* New BIOS option since BIOS 0802 (At lease for myself)

*PSU:* PC Power & Cooling 1KW Turbo-Cool

*GPU:* nVidia 680 GTX w/ 3GB RAM

Tnx

Tim

ARS N9NU


----------



## n9nu

I have not edited my profile in over 8 months.....i just did to update several things.....and excuse me, but who the hell are you to tell me what I do and don't have? Quit following me around the forums here or I will report your troubled little ass.

Please have respect for others on here. Especially when they put their lives on the line to save others....thats includes you my friend.

P.S. Someone from this thread or other report this clown. I don't have the time to play games.


----------



## truckerguy

on this board the CPU BUS/PEG FREQUANCY is used to do a FBS overclock raising or lowering it will change everything your CPU RATIO your ram frequancy your CPU/NB frequancy as well as your HT link try setting the CPU BUS/PEG FREQUANCY at 250 adjust CPU RATIO to 15 that sould be about 4.0Ghz AI to manual OC TUNER to cansel AMD TURBO to disable MENORY FREQUANCY to 1666 CPU/NB Frequancy 3000 HT LINK to 2000Mhz if it dosent boot right or bios crash keep lowering the CPU/NB Frequancy one notich lower till it works then bump up CPU RATIO at .5 i.e from 15 to 15.5 then 16 and so on till it wont boot or bios crash go back to the last good one once you have that we can work on voltage and the LLC


----------



## truckerguy

its handled


----------



## n9nu

Great. Thank you for the information. I will do what ya said there and spend some time with the various options. Tnx for the 'clown' removal too.

I will report back and let ya know what I changed and by how much.

Tnx again for responding.

Tim


----------



## munnis

i dont live in usa sorry, he dont protect me.
RUSSIA FOR LOVE








Is these psu voltages OK?
http://img6.imagebanana.com/img/oj9zjkgt/2012070421.24.54.jpg


----------



## OptimalOvrclock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> that points to a lack of CPU/NB voltage or Dram voltage


Thanks for the tip. I have yet to mess with those voltages.


----------



## lostmybandaide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> dude... idk if im wrong but.... are you using two different pair of ram kits????
> i just felt how 98 baby pandas were brutally murdered, the voice of justin bieber and pitbull in my ears... you should correct that


I decided to change rams last minute to go with my old G. Skills Ripjaws instead of those Patriots G2 in the box. Down to 8GB now b/c i have to RMA a pair of those G. Skill 2 days later.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231314

Those are the 2 Kits i'm using on this build. think that'll cause a problem?


----------



## lostmybandaide

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2430123
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> I need you Cpuz shot as well


**sorry for the double post, could not find the edit button earlier**


----------



## theamdman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> i dont live in usa sorry, he dont protect me.
> RUSSIA FOR LOVE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is these psu voltages OK?
> http://img6.imagebanana.com/img/oj9zjkgt/2012070421.24.54.jpg


IN Check


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lostmybandaide*
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2430123
> **sorry for the double post, could not find the edit button earlier**


you been added


----------



## Disturbed117

Anyone else have bad vcore spikes?


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disturbed117*
> 
> Anyone else have bad vcore spikes?


what do you have your LLC set at?


----------



## Disturbed117

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> what do you have your LLC set at?


High at the moment.


----------



## truckerguy

thats the spike with the same setting and Vcore at 1.55 when I push my 1090T to 4.4Ghz it will go as high as 1.6


----------



## OptimalOvrclock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> that points to a lack of CPU/NB voltage or Dram voltage


Well I did tweek the CPU/NB voltage and changed took it back up to 4.3ghz went high on the Multiplier and was stable then I went up on the FSB after down clocking my ram and pulled my multiplier back down and brought my CPU Voltage down a bit to try and get it stable at 4.3 with less voltage than 1.41 since the CPU/NB seemed to fix it. I guess we will see when I get home if 1.38 volts works out. Seems to run at 56c last night for my max after 6 hrs of prime 95. I am pretty sure the FX 6100 is good up to 70c but I would like to keep it 60c max.

Thanks for the Tip Truckerguy. Will post my settings when I get it all polished off.

This is my first experience into water cooling btw. I am sure you can tell


----------



## lostmybandaide

I was doing some reading earlier and a couple of post mention that i can O.C. the multiplier w/o messing with the Voltage with these AMD processors. i tried that earlier but i wasn't able to boot into windows (it froze on the windows logo). i guess 22.0 was a little too high. What would be a good number w/o messing with any voltage? Also, If i'm only messing with the multiplier, do i have to change the CPU and CPU/NB voltage much?


----------



## OptimalOvrclock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lostmybandaide*
> 
> I was doing some reading earlier and a couple of post mention that i can O.C. the multiplier w/o messing with the Voltage with these AMD processors. i tried that earlier but i wasn't able to boot into windows (it froze on the windows logo). i guess 22.0 was a little too high. What would be a good number w/o messing with any voltage? Also, If i'm only messing with the multiplier, do i have to change the CPU and CPU/NB voltage much?


You can OC without messing with FSB if that is what you wish. If you up the multiplier that much you will indeed have to up the voltage. Infact you are on the right track. Read this guide and the instance you describe is the first step he uses. If the system fails to post or windows freezes add some volts... http://www.overclock.net/t/1140459/bulldozer-overclocking-guide-performance-scaling-charts-max-ocs-ln2-results-coming


----------



## slojko

new to overclocking, could use some advice. thanks!

CPU
AMD Phenom II X4 965 38 °C
Deneb 45nm Technology
RAM
8.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 577MHz (9-9-9-24)
Motherboard
ASUSTeK Computer INC. SABERTOOTH 990FX (AM3r2) 37 °C
Graphics
FHX2300 ([email protected])
HF257 ([email protected])
1023MB GeForce GTX 560 Ti (EVGA) 55 °C
Hard Drives
117GB OCZ OCZ-VERTEX3 ATA Device (SATA) 30 °C
977GB Western Digital WDC WD10EADS-22M2B0 ATA Device (SATA


----------



## munnis

use youtube


----------



## slojko

thanks dude!


----------



## munnis

you found linustechtips phenom overclocking guide in youtube?


----------



## OptimalOvrclock

Finally got a nice stable overclock but the temps are a bit low so maybe I should push it a bit higher. I did hit 56c but that was in my computer a computer armoir and I moved it to a table about half way through test and it dropped 6c. Gotta love the Sabertooth, Great Motherboard. Again I want to thank TruckerGuy.


----------



## munnis

that low 4,3ghz overclock dont show that sabertooth is good board, every am3+ board can do 4,3ghz overclock


----------



## OptimalOvrclock

The sabertooth is a great user friendly board is all. The 4.3 shows me I am headed in the right direction. 1gig overclock is not a bad place to be but alas I am sure there will be higher but now.. now its game time.


----------



## munnis

game time with low fps








you must push that cpu harder for better fps in games


----------



## reigndropz

Whats up guys. First post in probably a year......I just got this board. Entered the BIOS and was BLOWN AWAY! It looks spectacular. Unfortunately, I only saw it once. Got the red cpu light. on the mobo. I triple checked everything, even took it out the case but still a no go. I am supposed to be receiving an advanced replacement from ASUS. Their customer service is pretty horrendous....Have any of you gotten an AR from ASUS on this board?? If so, did it come with ANYTHING? I got this originally as an open box so I never got the screws and i/o shield. Was just wondering if you guys lucked out at all.


----------



## truckerguy

I got everything with my open box


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OptimalOvrclock*
> 
> Finally got a nice stable overclock but the temps are a bit low so maybe I should push it a bit higher. I did hit 56c but that was in my computer a computer armoir and I moved it to a table about half way through test and it dropped 6c. Gotta love the Sabertooth, Great Motherboard. Again I want to thank TruckerGuy.


not a problem give that cpu a mo or 2 before you tweek it up more


----------



## reigndropz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> I got everything with my open box


Thanks for the reply, but I meant on the return from ASUS.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reigndropz*
> 
> Whats up guys. First post in probably a year......I just got this board. Entered the BIOS and was BLOWN AWAY! It looks spectacular. Unfortunately, I only saw it once. Got the red cpu light. on the mobo. I triple checked everything, even took it out the case but still a no go. I am supposed to be receiving an advanced replacement from ASUS. Their customer service is pretty horrendous....Have any of you gotten an AR from ASUS on this board?? If so, did it come with ANYTHING? I got this originally as an open box so I never got the screws and i/o shield. Was just wondering if you guys lucked out at all.


I've sent two mobo's through their RMA process, never did an AR though. Both times I was sent the I/O shield with the repaired/refurbished mobo, nothing else was included. Since you got the advanced replacement, I can only assume you'll get some goodies with it, at least a I/O shield?


----------



## CiBi

Hey guys, I recently bought the Asus Sabertooth 990FX motherboard but now i'm having some trouble with overclocking.

So here's the thing, last week I bought an Sabertooth 990FX motherboard so yesterday I had to overclock my system again.
The system is now stable and as high overclocked as I could get it. The CPU is running at 4GHz, Northbridge at 3GHz and Memory at 1600MHz but I think there is still room for improvement.

In the screenshots below you can see all the settings, I dont think I forgot anything









I have a few questions, first of all as soon as I increase the FSB the system becomes unstable, even with all other stuff running stock. So I had to overclock by using the multiplier only, 20x200MHz was the highest I got without increasing the vcore over 1.475V. I hardly understand all the CPU Load Line Calibration settings so I think there might be room for improvement in my system by changing voltages and VRM settings.

I'm also worried because I cant check the CPU/NB voltage while the system is running...

All advice is welcome









Grtz

CiBi


----------



## munnis

nice overclock, hope you get more juicy overclock with that chip
dont go over 1,475v cpu voltage


----------



## CiBi

Could someone tell me if my DIGI+ VRM settings are good, and if they aren't could you tell me what they should be. Or explain the Load Line Calebration (high, ultra high, extreme,...) and the Current Capability because I dont really understand what they do.


----------



## munnis

have gigabyte ud5 digi +vram?


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> have gigabyte ud5 digi +vram?


I'm pretty sure 'DIGI+ VRM' is an Asus thing... Its on the Sabertooth and the Crosshair, i'm not sure about the other motherboards


----------



## truckerguy

LLC is used to conter voltage drops when under load DIGI + VRM refers to digital control it more persice


----------



## laidback

Hi, I have never manually overclocked anything. I would like to get 4.0ghz out of my amd 975be. I did the auto overclock built into the bios, it came up with 3.8. clearly not what I was looking to get out of this thing. any suggestions on what settings to try out? again I'm new at this and have no clue what each setting does........

thanks.....


----------



## truckerguy

yes give this guilde a read it will walk you thru it


----------



## Avenger1212

Well, if disabling CPU idling is not going to harm the processor in the long run, just because I disabled it, I think I can live with that work around. I've managed to get my idle temps down to 44c with some fan setting wizardry. That's only about 4c more than it was before I disabled the idle. I just have this hunch if I go to the trouble of RMAing the mobo, it'll whine just the same with a new one.

So, disabling CPU idling isn't in itself bad for the processor right? It simply raises temps?


----------



## addz17

CPU's are designed to run at 100% load for a few years without issues so i wouldn't imagine having idle turned off doing much long term harm if any, might suck up a few more watts though. What PSU are you using btw?


----------



## munnis

550w codegen


----------



## Avenger1212

Thanks for the reply.

It's an AMD FX 8120

EDIT:

Oh, you said PSU. It's a 650 watt PC Power & Cooling supply I've had for a number of years now. It was a very nice PSU back in the day. I didn't have the scratch to upgrade it this go around, and it seemed plenty big enough to handle my system.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

hey guys got my saber 990fx im assuming its rev 1.0 but it said rev 1.01 and on right hand top the box has an extra logo next to the green am3+


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> hey guys got my saber 990fx im assuming its rev 1.0 but it said rev 1.01 and on right hand top the box has an extra logo next to the green am3+


interesting, what does it say?

Sent from my iPad


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

a big sticker about 1 and a half inch square ''AMD FIRM WARE READY'' in a colour scheme of the fx 8150 container


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> interesting, what does it say?
> Sent from my iPad


a big sticker about 1 and a half inch square ''AMD FIRM WARE READY'' in a colour scheme of the fx 8150 container


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

IT came with an extra sticker as u can see what does this mean?? because on every other box i see i never saw that sticker on it THE AMD FIRMWARE READY FX PROCESSORS


----------



## truckerguy

the frist Sabertooth boards had a problem running ssd drives and a update to the bios handled that


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

so do u know what does that sticker mean ??


----------



## munnis

this means that you dont need update bios with am3 cpu for using am3+ cpus


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

oh really cooolll ON A REV.1.01 sabertooth







thats strange but ok because i never saw any of the boxes ON GOOGLE IMAGES had that sticker on it


----------



## Disturbed117

My box has the same stickers.


----------



## truckerguy

the older boxs dident have it


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

so im assuming that if u decided to put the fx series cpus it will post and boot up normal seeing they update the mother board readiing all of the reviews from every where


----------



## shampoo911

ok guys here's the deal...

im participating in a contest (here in venezuela)... overclocking contest... so i need to squeeze the hell out of my sabertooth...

what im looking for (mainly).. memory readings... i want to achieve 15gb/s on maxxmem... in order to do this, i guess that the NB frequency, should be like +3000mhz more or less...

i need: normal CPU/NB voltages... and how much voltage should i add to achieve 3000mhz...

my rig is on my signature... a lot of help would be appreciated...


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> so im assuming that if u decided to put the fx series cpus it will post and boot up normal seeing they update the mother board readiing all of the reviews from every where


yes


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

I HAVE MY FINGERS AND TOES CROSSED because so far like all of the saber tooth is coming with that sticker i created a topic here to find out if any one has gotten that sticker on the box and so far only people who bought it his year after APRIL/MAY ....


----------



## CiBi

hmmmm, suddenly I got BSOD everytime i booted, i could not get in windows and i got BSOD's (several) each time, even when i tried to reinstall windows it gave me a BSOD

but then i pressed the 'mem OK' button while booting and I got in windows, I updated the chipset drivers and rebooted but then i got a BSOD again, and again when i pressed 'mem OK' it worked.

So basicly i can now only boot if i first press 'mem OK' , i figure it has something to do with my memory but how can I fix this and what caused it?

ow and the motherboard has the latest BIOS and the SSD has the latest firmware.

thx


----------



## munnis

its time for rma or mess with memory timings and setting in bios


----------



## CiBi

hmmm, tried booting with only 1 dimm and that worked, so shut down put the other dimm back in, and again BSOD...

I dont think the memory is broken since it works when i push memOK first.

And if i RMA, what should i RMA? The motherboard or the ram?


----------



## munnis

if you but 2 dimm ram try increase a little bit ram voltage.


----------



## CiBi

ran memtest and got lots of errors, i'll just rma my memory

edit:// i read that also the cpu or the motherboard could be causing errors in memtest, i'll do some more testing tomorrow to make sure its definetly the memory


----------



## truckerguy

well at les you don't have to buy new ram


----------



## sunset1

well you beat me to it. :> good call on memtest.
sunset1


----------



## sunset1

so i guess you have to rep yourself for that one. :> j/k hope that solves it.


----------



## sunset1

I just read your edit... so how to test the motherboard cpu for errors? I have to admint thats one area i need to read up on.
sunset1


----------



## CiBi

I can use the memory in another working rig and if it works there I know its not the memory, I can also put my phenom in my friends rig and if that also works its the motherboard,


----------



## sunset1

ahh the other motherboard connection.. :> Friends can be lifesavers. good luck.
sunset1


----------



## garikfox

New Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 is out !









It even has its own BIOS, BIOS 0219


----------



## truckerguy

cool


----------



## CiBi

only 3 weeks after i bought my sabertooth


----------



## truckerguy

isent it always that way


----------



## munnis

yup its always with asus that 1.x and 2.x are diffrent bioses thats because i love gigabyte stuff


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> yup its always with asus that 1.x and 2.x are diffrent bioses thats because i love gigabyte stuff


Im sorry


----------



## munnis

why?


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> why?


if you have to ask why then Im really sorry


----------



## sunset1

I found out thta the 2.0 was due out the day after i ordered mine but it was no where to be found.
I just made peace with the fact that I was getting one of the best boards on the market for my chip.
Even tho its out a lot faster than i thought.. im still in my 30 days, Im very happy with my board and would not change it. Im in the process of updating all of my computers for the house so when i get them finished ill have time to offiicially join this club. This is the easiest board i have ever used.
Sunset1


----------



## truckerguy

all the 2.0 is the latesed BIOS like with mine I had to use a PH II cpu to update the bios before I could use a FX cpu


----------



## sunset1

I have to check my version but its 1.? i just got it a about two weeks ago and it was already updated. Maybe they just made it rev.2.0 to show it had the newest bios? I would have thought that there was annother reason.. oh well time will tell. Either way its awesome.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> I have to check my version but its 1.? i just got it a about two weeks ago and it was already updated. Maybe they just made it rev.2.0 to show it had the newest bios? I would have thought that there was annother reason.. oh well time will tell. Either way its awesome.


hey did u get the third redsticker on ur box saying FIRMWARE FX PROCESSER READY?


----------



## sunset1

yes It had a sticker on the upper right hand of the box next to the two printed items brb checking to see order date from newegg... 6/20/2012
went into AI suite and sysinfo says version 1.xx ami 3/12/2012 version 1102.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> yes It had a sticker on the upper right hand of the box next to the two printed items brb checking to see order date from newegg... 6/20/2012
> went into AI suite and sysinfo says version 1.xx ami 3/12/2012 version 1102.


SO THAT MEANS I GOT THE 1102 BIOS!!!


----------



## DevilDriver

Looking at the Sabertooth 990FX web page, I don't think there is a difference between revision 1 and 2.
All the listed specs are the same and the board hasn't changed any. It looks like its just because of the BIOS it comes with and one guess on my part would be since the mobo came out before the FX cup's they are trying to distinguish the fact it runs AM3+.

Personally I love my Sabertooth and wouldnt trade it in for any thing. It's had my FX-6100 running 4.7Ghz, 24 stable for months now


----------



## pendrago

Hi there!
Having recently my Hard Drive capacity to "shrink" a little bit I have started to look for sth that could change this situation.
I came across at this solution SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s.
I know it's a little "old" construction but I think it would be quite good for storage purposes only.
Well I got 2X Spinpoint F3 HD502HJ/ST500DM005 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s now and they're awesomely good (even better after I have flashed modded Bios).
So, I had been wondering if any of you had Samsung HD103SJ and what one can say about its performance? Will they (because I want to buy 2 of them) be as good as my those HD502HJ ? Actually HD103SJ cost just exactly the same here as the 500 MB model (which is strange








Any opinions?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> Personally I love my Sabertooth and wouldnt trade it in for any thing. It's had my FX-6100 running 4.7Ghz, 24 stable for months now


I was wondering if you could post a screenshot (from AIDA ) of Cache and Memory Benchmark ? I have been wondering recently about changing my Thuban for a CPU you have ... FX-6100. After many hours of testing I just know all I can get from this CPU is 3.9 GHz or 4 GHz in the best scenario. And of course I don't have 1866 RAM setting (divider) in my BIOS because Thubans doesn't support it (got to overclock it through raising my FSB ).
Do I really need to change my cooling for W/C system? Having a board like this (Sabertooth I mean) and having a CPU which limits my board's potential is something that makes me upset


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> I was wondering if you could post a screenshot (from AIDA ) of Cache and Memory Benchmark ? I have been wondering recently about changing my Thuban for a CPU you have ... FX-6100. After many hours of testing I just know all I can get from this CPU is 3.9 GHz or 4 GHz in the best scenario. And of course I don't have 1866 RAM setting (divider) in my BIOS because Thubans doesn't support it (got to overclock it through raising my FSB ).
> Do I really need to change my cooling for W/C system? Having a board like this (Sabertooth I mean) and having a CPU which limits my board's potential is something that makes me upset


Hope this is what you were looking for


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Hi there!
> Having recently my Hard Drive capacity to "shrink" a little bit I have started to look for sth that could change this situation.
> I came across at this solution SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s.
> I know it's a little "old" construction but I think it would be quite good for storage purposes only.
> Well I got 2X Spinpoint F3 HD502HJ/ST500DM005 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s now and they're awesomely good (even better after I have flashed modded Bios).
> So, I had been wondering if any of you had Samsung HD103SJ and what one can say about its performance? Will they (because I want to buy 2 of them) be as good as my those HD502HJ ? Actually HD103SJ cost just exactly the same here as the 500 MB model (which is strange
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any opinions?
> I was wondering if you could post a screenshot (from AIDA ) of Cache and Memory Benchmark ? I have been wondering recently about changing my Thuban for a CPU you have ... FX-6100. After many hours of testing I just know all I can get from this CPU is 3.9 GHz or 4 GHz in the best scenario. And of course I don't have 1866 RAM setting (divider) in my BIOS because Thubans doesn't support it (got to overclock it through raising my FSB ).
> Do I really need to change my cooling for W/C system? Having a board like this (Sabertooth I mean) and having a CPU which limits my board's potential is something that makes me upset


Probably the wrong place for the first question about the HD but I do have that drive. I do use it for storage and it does transfer around 100MB/s to and fro my velociraptor. When I got a hold of it I immediately tested it against my WD 1TB green drive and it put it to shame in many different tests so I would say it is not a bad drive at all if you can get it for cheap. It would not be my drive of choice unless choosing it saved me a lot of money. If prices where the same or within $20-30 I would go with a WD BLACK that is current generation not last gen like this samsung


----------



## givmedew

Also I popped on here looking to find what the heck the difference between the original and the rev 2.0 version of the sabertooth is. I read on another forum it was for thunderbolt support but I can not confirm that. Someone else claimed better power delivery and I think that is hogwash. But at the same time I would think there would be some sort of actual physical change to warrant a rev 2.0 being placed on it.


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> Hope this is what you were looking for


Indeed! That's what I were looking for. Comparing to yours my results are just terrible! I know this is 4.7 GHz vs. 3.8 GHz and that's a lot but ... I had better results having my Phenom II 955 BE with RAM speed set at 1600 MHz.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Probably the wrong place for the first question about the HD but I do have that drive. I do use it for storage and it does transfer around 100MB/s to and fro my velociraptor. When I got a hold of it I immediately tested it against my WD 1TB green drive and it put it to shame in many different tests so I would say it is not a bad drive at all if you can get it for cheap. It would not be my drive of choice unless choosing it saved me a lot of money. If prices where the same or within $20-30 I would go with a WD BLACK that is current generation not last gen like this samsung


Well this thread is about Asus Sabertooth MOBO, so I thought it would be the best place to ask about this HDD. Because I want to link 2 drives and set RAID 0 on this board I was curious if the performance of those drives with the latest modded BIOS (with RAID ROM updated) will be similar to my current set of HDDs. I've read a few reviews about *F3 HD103SJ 1TB* but I couldn't find any information about their performance in RAID 0 mode set up on Sabertooth MOBO.
Anyway thanks for your answer. I will probably buy these Samsungs.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

HEY guys i did my saber thooth 990fx paired with a fx 8150 and im trying to install windows win7 64bit on a ocz ssd and the system durinng not freezes but kinda hangs ive got the 901 bios it . it beeps normal at start up passes bios but givs a littel trouble to install windows


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

HYE GUYS NOW THE MEM OK light stays on?? any help will be appriciated URGENT HELP!!


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

I DID WHAT THE MANUAL told me to do and still notthing ive reseated the ram sticks and cleared the cmos and still cant post into bios but this morning when i did the test boot every thing went smoothly and when i was trying to install my 64bit os it ran smoothly un till windoes install had to reboot and i just sat there for 5 mins watiing for it to post and load up!! but it did not im using the amd fx 8150 and i got the 901 bios but it posted up this morning smooth as ever oh and im using a ocz 3 ssd to load my windows!!


----------



## munnis

use achi or ide


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> I DID WHAT THE MANUAL told me to do and still notthing ive reseated the ram sticks and cleared the cmos and still cant post into bios but this morning when i did the test boot every thing went smoothly and when i was trying to install my 64bit os it ran smoothly un till windoes install had to reboot and i just sat there for 5 mins watiing for it to post and load up!! but it did not im using the amd fx 8150 and i got the 901 bios but it posted up this morning smooth as ever oh and im using a ocz 3 ssd to load my windows!!


you have the wrong version of bios need a jump drive


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

hey guys i got true wil the install and posting ive installed windows this morning and every thing is running smooth so far sorry for the panic!! the red dram light what was on i was soo accustomed pulling back the 2 tabs on the dimms not knowing that what i had click in the ram half way so the ram was clicked in place but not in the slot so every thing IS OK
BUT SORRY FOR the panic post u guys know how it can be at desperate moments but i liked how u guys responded







for the OCN COMMUNITY


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> hey guys i got true wil the install and posting ive installed windows this morning and every thing is running smooth so far sorry for the panic!! the red dram light what was on i was soo accustomed pulling back the 2 tabs on the dimms not knowing that what i had click in the ram half way so the ram was clicked in place but not in the slot so every thing IS OK
> BUT SORRY FOR the panic post u guys know how it can be at desperate moments but i liked how u guys responded
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for the OCN COMMUNITY


you diffently need to update your bios if your on 902 to 1202


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> you diffently need to update your bios if your on 902 to 1202


OR umm but every thing is running smoothly so far so i wont trouble trouble un less if i need to
OR umm but every thing is running smoothly so far so i wont trouble trouble un less if i need to


----------



## DevilDriver

HaHa I'm still using the 0813 eufi, got my best stable oc with it and have no issues.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> HaHa I'm still using the 0813 eufi, got my best stable oc with it and have no issues.


YESS ive watch NCIX TECH TIPS on youtube an and the guy said if it is working perfectly dont touch any thing un less u have to!


----------



## Fsnow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> Looking at the Sabertooth 990FX web page, I don't think there is a difference between revision 1 and 2.
> All the listed specs are the same and the board hasn't changed any. It looks like its just because of the BIOS it comes with and one guess on my part would be since the mobo came out before the FX cup's they are trying to distinguish the fact it runs AM3+.
> Personally I love my Sabertooth and wouldnt trade it in for any thing. It's had my FX-6100 running 4.7Ghz, 24 stable for months now


Here is the differences listed. I posted this on another site that has the words over and clockers in it.
I am getting my MB delivered from Walmart on Friday(I get all my hardware there







Hey, the board was $170 and "Easy Return). Not being really familiar with MB's in general I was wondering if I should return it for a REV 2.0? What do you think? Seems pretty much the same?

I can see: these differences:
JMicron SATA controller replaced with ASMedia PCIe controller
(I have heard bad things about ALL controllers)
2 more SATA 6Gb/s connectors
DirectKey Button
DRCT header
TPM connector(s)
AI+ charger
Remote Go
ASUS DRAM SPEED

ROM:
64 Mb flash ROM
SLP 2.1(?)
SM BIOS 2.7


----------



## truckerguy

yes they are very close and if you need the extra ports then its something to think about


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fsnow*
> 
> Here is the differences listed. I posted this on another site that has the words over and clockers in it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I am getting my MB delivered from Walmart on Friday(I get all my hardware there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey, the board was $170 and "Easy Return). Not being really familiar with MB's in general I was wondering if I should return it for a REV 2.0? What do you think? Seems pretty much the same?
> I can see: these differences:
> JMicron SATA controller replaced with ASMedia PCIe controller
> (I have heard bad things about ALL controllers)
> 2 more SATA 6Gb/s connectors
> DirectKey Button
> DRCT header
> TPM connector(s)
> AI+ charger
> Remote Go
> ASUS DRAM SPEED
> ROM:
> 64 Mb flash ROM
> SLP 2.1(?)
> SM BIOS 2.7


The Asus website does not show those differences.
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#specifications

some of that such as the AI charger + and asus remote to go are with the rv01 sabertooth, just not advertised in its specs.

EDIT, Found the rv02 spec page, still why they are now advertising features that the rv01 did have I dont understand.


----------



## sunset1

thanks for the info!
sunset1


----------



## Cartel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Indeed! That's what I were looking for. Comparing to yours my results are just terrible! I know this is 4.7 GHz vs. 3.8 GHz and that's a lot but ... I had better results having my Phenom II 955 BE with RAM speed set at 1600 MHz.


You think thats bad? I too had faster bandwidth on my Phenom II 940 BE and DDR2 rams.
I'm not happy at all with DDR3

Look at this garbage


----------



## DevilDriver

Im guessing you all are not running the trial version, sadly at this time I cant afford the paid version, but here is that exact benchmark for you all to compare to my FX-6100.


----------



## dimwit13

quick question guys-
do you think i could use this-

over my mosfet heat sink? (with a little modding)
do you think it would help cool much?

thanks

-dimwit-


----------



## truckerguy

yes


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cartel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Indeed! That's what I were looking for. Comparing to yours my results are just terrible! I know this is 4.7 GHz vs. 3.8 GHz and that's a lot but ... I had better results having my Phenom II 955 BE with RAM speed set at 1600 MHz.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> You think thats bad? I too had faster bandwidth on my Phenom II 940 BE and DDR2 rams.
> I'm not happy at all with DDR3
> 
> Look at this garbage


I can see that. You should try to overclock your CPU to at least 3.9 GHz (when you pass 4 GHz and NB Freq up to 3 GHz). You'll see a noticable boost in memory performance. You can even play a little with your Memory speed and timings. So, now I managed (finally) to overclock mine system to 3.9 GHz (1.38V) and Ram speed 1854 (i know I can do higher than that) with 8-9-8-24-36 1T timings:



And what results do you get in Windows System Memory Performance Tool ?

Run --> cmd -->

Code:



Code:


winsat mem

?

I got sth like 20786 MB/s
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> Im guessing you all are not running the trial version, sadly at this time I cant afford the paid version, but here is that exact benchmark for you all to compare to my FX-6100.


Well, in your previous post you showed me screenshots with all of your results I wanted to see.
Have you considering to tighten your RAM timings ? Because you have (I guess) Corsair Vengance 1866 MHz (or 1600 MHz) ?
Have you seen this AMD_FX_Performance_Tuning_Guide ?
Go to page 16 and check those values presented there. You should be able to overclock your memory with timing 8-9-8-24-36 1T 1866 MHz at least (1.60 V). They presented there values like 7-9-7-24-41 1T but in my situation whatever I do is useless - I can't go below 8-9-8 :/ which is quite annoying ;P
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> quick question guys-
> do you think i could use this over my mosfet heat sink? (with a little modding)
> do you think it would help cool much?
> 
> thanks
> -dimwit-


Yes they will... hmm but they are 2x40 mm fans? Quite noisy don't you think? Have you considered to use one 120 mm fan with RPMs at least 1000 - 1400 ? Of course you have water cooled CPU set so after a little modding you should be able to install there 1x120 mm fan or even 1x140 mm. I think you'll have your MOSFET cooler and quieter cooling system. I have experimented with it, because I wanted to cool down my memory sticks (I did that - I installed one 120 mm fan and attached some kind of tube with narrow end which compressed airflow right on the top of my memory sticks - unfortunately I can't find pictures I have taken ).

And now very quick question.
I've been experimenting recently with *Turbocache* and *C'n'Q* and those features are just awesome (thought I don't want to waste energy when I use mostly my computer for Internet browsing and games occasionally (then I can switch it to my higher OC'ed profile). I changed the settings in windows Power Profile from maximum performance to balanced.
Everything is just fine - in idle all 6 cores are downclocked to 800 MHz (1.22 V) which is just awesome (CPU is cooler 17*C in idle).
Ok! But when the system boots and I look at BIOS CPU Voltage it's like 1.45 V (boots with stock settings) and I just don't want that.
I can run it with 3.2 GHz and 1.33 CPU V and be happy about that. Don't need 1.45 V. But when I change Vcore setting in bios from AUTO to 1.33 V it stays just at this level.
Even after my system downclock CPU to 800 MHz it just sit at 1.33 V and not like previously at 1.22 V (a difference is huge).
Is there any workaround to force my system to lower CPU V to 1.22 V ?


----------



## shampoo911

alright... i asked for help a while ago to no avail... so im asking again... i want:

a NB/CPU freq of at least 2800mhz...
improve my maxxmem score
nice cpu freq
so here are my numbers up until now tuesday july 17th 13:06 (local time)



i want to know, which voltages should be increased and decreased or whatever i must do...


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> alright... i asked for help a while ago to no avail... so im asking again... i want:
> 
> a NB/CPU freq of at least 2800mhz...
> improve my maxxmem score
> nice cpu freq
> i want to know, which voltages should be increased and decreased or whatever i must do...


Your results are quite fine but...
1) to get 3000 MHz NB/CPU freq you should set your CPU/NB Voltage in Bios to at least 1.35 V (but bare in mind that I talk about Thuban not an FX CPU) - you should try 1.3 V and CPU/NB LLC set to High - I don't actually have this CPU, so I am guessing right now,
2) tighten your RAM timings - you should experiment with that (what is your DIMM Voltage?)
3) and the current one isn't nice? ;>


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Your results are quite fine but...
> 1) to get 3000 MHz NB/CPU freq you should set your CPU/NB Voltage in Bios to at least 1.35 V (but bare in mind that I talk about Thuban not an FX CPU) - you should try 1.3 V and CPU/NB LLC set to High - I don't actually have this CPU, so I am guessing right now,
> 2) tighten your RAM timings - you should experiment with that (what is your DIMM Voltage?)
> 3) and the current one isn't nice? ;>


well... to tighten the timings, i suppose that i have to add a little more voltage to my rams, am i right? i get kinda jealous when i see someone with a higher score than me, using some value ram sticks..

to test stability, is there another program (i want to avoid prime95) to test it?


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> well... to tighten the timings, i suppose that i have to add a little more voltage to my rams, am i right? i get kinda jealous when i see someone with a higher score than me, using some value ram sticks..
> 
> to test stability, is there another program (i want to avoid prime95) to test it?


To test stability I use *Intel Burn Test 2.53*. Just be careful because it can make your CPU 10*C hotter during test than Prime 95, so you should have a decent cooling. Run it on Very High settings. It doesn't stress memory the way Prime95 do but it is a lot quicker.

To check stability of your Ram after tunning I use quite simple and Free software *MemTest*.
In your FX you've got 8 cores so run 8 instances of this software (in full version there is no such limitation I assume). Now you just check how much ram you've got free. Let's say you've got 8 GB (you can check it in your windows Task Manager --> Performance --> Resource Monitor) then in each instance of memtest you put a value that you'll get from this equation:

Free RAM/no. of cores. Let's say you would have 7GB of free ram, so you have to input in each dialog box 875 MB. Then you start all of these instances and wait after it makes 2 passes (200%). That usually indicates that your RAM settings are fine and stable and it's less time consuming than running Prime for 12 hours or more.


----------



## Tweeky

*BIOS 1304*

http://usa.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#download


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> *BIOS 1304*
> 
> http://usa.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#download


lol-i am still on 813, should i update-it aint broke.

-dimwit-


----------



## RagingLoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> lol-i am still on 813, should i update-it aint broke.
> -dimwit-


Yeah, I'm on 0705 with my 1100T and every time I update I have stability issues and always end up going back to 0705. Tempting though!


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingLoon*
> 
> Yeah, I'm on 0705 with my 1100T and every time I update I have stability issues and always end up going back to 0705. Tempting though!


i did use 901 for a bit, but had problems-so i went back to 813.
i will wait for someone else and then i might give it a shot.

-dimwit-


----------



## marjamar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> *BIOS 1304*
> 
> http://usa.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#download


Just doing an upgrade from my CHIVE to Sabertooth 990FX and flashed to the latest BIOS first thing. Maybe it would have been a better idea to run with the BIOS that came on the board first, as it is not liking me trying to get it to 4.8GHz like my FX-8150 was on the CHIVE motherboard.

I think I'll do some reading in this thread to see if I'm missing something important.

-Rodger


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marjamar*
> 
> Just doing an upgrade from my CHIVE to Sabertooth 990FX and flashed to the latest BIOS first thing. Maybe it would have been a better idea to run with the BIOS that came on the board first, as it is not liking me trying to get it to 4.8GHz like my FX-8150 was on the CHIVE motherboard.
> I think I'll do some reading in this thread to see if I'm missing something important.
> -Rodger


it really IS a royal pain in the ass this new bios...


----------



## Astrogoth

Anyone know what 1304 is supposed to fix?


----------



## truckerguy

SABERTOOTH 990FX BIOS 1304

1.Improve system stability.
2.Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.Improves System Stability


----------



## shampoo911

and making overclock nearly impossible...


----------



## Astrogoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> SABERTOOTH 990FX BIOS 1304
> 1.Improve system stability.
> 2.Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.Improves System Stability


Heard that one before.


----------



## truckerguy

thats what they say


----------



## Mistral

I've been running 1304 for a while it seems fine, no problems with the FX8150 @ 4.8ghz, temps seem slightly better.


----------



## Jack Herer

I've been running bios 1304 for a couple of days now (upgraded from the previous bios 1208), here are my observations;
1. still got the usual bsod (code 0x0000003b), happens randomly.
2. the motherboard still beeps randomly, whild browsing in chrome or playing games, two short beeps. Can't find any info on that. Someone suggested plugging into non HD header, but there is only one...

Other than the usual problems, I didn't notice any improvements or changes.


----------



## Astrogoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Herer*
> 
> I've been running bios 1304 for a couple of days now (upgraded from the previous bios 1208), here are my observations;
> 1. still got the usual bsod (code 0x0000003b), happens randomly.
> 2. the motherboard still beeps randomly, whild browsing in chrome or playing games, two short beeps. Can't find any info on that. Someone suggested plugging into non HD header, but there is only one...
> Other than the usual problems, I didn't notice any improvements or changes.


Sounds like you have a defective board. Mine, at 4.4Ghz, never does any of that. Send it back.

If I can't find a good reason to update the BIOS I won't. Reentering all those settings is a real pain.


----------



## lutsar

4ghz 14x286fsb 9-9-9-27 1587mhz memory not stable
4ghz 14x286 9-9-9-27 1125mhz memory is stable
cpu stock speed 9-9-9-27 1600mhz memory is stable

Why my 4ghz memory is not stable and cpu stock speed same timing and stuff is?


----------



## Ashtyr

My bios , maybe can help, vers 1208

x6 at 4.1 Ghz ( 4,2 in winter) 1,488 V ( I have luck whit this CPU think)
NB 3,25 GHz VNB=1.2 ( with multi 14x reach 3Ghz, V is the same 1.2)
HT 1,95 GHZ V=auto

the rest of values set to auto

spread spectrum VRM MUST BE ACTIVE!! not auto, important in auto my computer dont load , just crash again and again, set to ON all works great.

And the CPU part, this is a lottery, so depend of your luck with the CPU
FSB 325
Multi 12,5x
RAM 1732 Mhz VRAM=1.65 ( are gskills ripjaw 2133 CL9)
phase control optimized( just for what sounds good, i have no idea xDDD)
CPU power load 130%
NB power load 120%

Forgive my english its no my native language, just try to help people asking for how to set NB frecuency higher than 2,8Ghz and how many Voltage is needed.

I'll try the new version


----------



## Jack Herer

yeah, I thought of that, it's such a pain though, I still have some time I think, hopefully my search will turn out successful.
Someone mentioned plugging the front panel audio to a non hd audio header on the motherboard, but there is only on audio header there, and I tried a soundcard which worked without issues on my old pc. When the beep occurs there is nothing logged in event viewer, it happens maybe once an hour. The bsod happened only once so far, code 3b. Very frustrating, the beep comes in through the headphones as well as the external speaker, I didn't think this m/b had a speaker, I read it uses leds for error reporting, etc.
Anyone else having this problem.

thanks for your help


----------



## Jack Herer

update on m/b beeping; I disabled audio in bios, beeping stopped, tried it for a couple of days. Now, I decided to see if a sound card which I had laying around would work, so I put it in the pci express slot (one right below 2nd graphics card, I have 2 in sli), installed drivers, and about an hour later - boom, beeping started again. Sounds like it's related to audio, b/c soon as I've audio enabled the beep comes back. I'm at a loss now, really hope it's not the board, I've never seen anything like it before, and I've put together a few pc's. Guess I could call Asus, but I'm not getting my hopes up.


----------



## truckerguy

RMA the board


----------



## Jack Herer

just realized something, the beep seems to occur at the top of the hour, for ex. 4:00 o'clock and so on. Any clues on a possible culprit? Might have to look into windows settings etc.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.


----------



## sunset1

Ok i think i have narrowed it down.. duh...
parity error.

http://www.bioscentral.com/beepcodes/amibeep.htm#

Edit.. can this happen after initial load ? in windows?


----------



## marjamar

Well, my Sabertooth is in a box and going back.

Spent the better part of 2 days fooling with this thing and can't see any light at the end of the tunnel. This board was an upgrade from my CHIVE which has been running my FX-8150 for over a year now just fine at 4.8GHz. Only reason I upgraded the M/B was to see about pushing the CPU a bit more and wanted to try a lower "volume" (more volume, less sound) water cooler then my H80 has with the 6000 RPM/210 CFM turbine fan on it. Well this new M/B didn't want to play nice with the FX-8150. Could only get to about 4.3 stable and was hotter there with the same H80 water cooing setup I used on the CHIVE. I suppose this particular board was somewhat flaky as it would even BSOD at that low setting.

Anyway, it's on the way back shortly.

Thinking about the CHV now. I did miss using ROG to fine tune with and monitor things outside the OS. Also had to do about half-dozen resets on the M/B when BIOS got "stuck". It's alot nicer to have a button to press on the notebook, or at worse on the M/B then reaching big hands into small places to move a jumper back and forth.

I think I will wait a bit and see what new stuff shows up with Piledriver. Maybe that's the smart thing to do.

-Rodger


----------



## Jack Herer

OK, wow, you guys will never know what the problem was. I have a digital clock gadget on my desktop, and it was set - by default - to sound alarm hourly. I just got that gadget about 2 weeks ago, would never think it was capable of that, the gadget has all kinds of settings. I guess I didn't have time to play with those right away - should have.
Good thing I saved myself an RMA pain.
Just wanted to thank everyone for their help. This could be a good tip for the future.


----------



## Jack Herer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> Ok i think i have narrowed it down.. duh...
> parity error.
> http://www.bioscentral.com/beepcodes/amibeep.htm#
> Edit.. can this happen after initial load ? in windows?


I found that code before too, just couldn't piece it together, board runs solid but that annoying beep, and there you go, it was that digital clock gadget, so simple


----------



## truckerguy

The Sabertooth has a menn ok button thier is no need to use the jumper


----------



## OptimalOvrclock

So when running my stablity tests I was using Prime95 but takes so long so I downloaded and ran IBT and ran the standard at 10 times and past then went to max stress and after a few hours it failed. What settings are suggested on IBT to get a good stable CPU reading?


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OptimalOvrclock*
> 
> So when running my stablity tests I was using Prime95 but takes so long so I downloaded and ran IBT and ran the standard at 10 times and past then went to max stress and after a few hours it failed. What settings are suggested on IBT to get a good stable CPU reading?


Anything above 20 passes should be avoided. This software really makes your CPU sweat and extremely hot. It is not necessary to run IBT for several hours. Of course it depends on how much RAM have you got.
I usually run it for 15 passes with settings set to Very High. That means a half of my memory is tested and then I can call it quite stable. After that I check if my memory is OK also and run MemTest for Windows and if there are no errors I consider my overclock as stable.


----------



## lutsar

i dont care about stable i like big numbers and i want use these big numbers.


----------



## pendrago

Everyone has his own, different approach to overclocking


----------



## lutsar

yup, im gamer and with games cpu dont need very good stable and can be semi-stable overclocking


----------



## Jack Herer

stupid question; the Intel Burn Test (IBT), how reliable is it on an amd cpu based system? I read some stuff, some people mentioned that prime 95 for ex. isn't the best benchmark for amd's b/c it was mostly designed for intel cpu's (is this true?), so here I am thinking, Intel... hmm... is it meant for intel systems, and not the best for amd's?


----------



## Jack Herer

yeah, I figured something like that, I guess aida64 it is,

thanks:thumb:


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lutsar*
> 
> dont use intel burn test with amd cpu, it decrease your cpu life


And Prime 95 and semi-stable overclocking, won't? I would say that running Prime 95 for 12 or 24 hours could be more dangerous for your CPU than running IBT for 40 min, am I right? Running Prime for a long time at 100 % of CPU utilization, hmmmm isn't that quite degrading for a CPU ?







That's only my opinion.

From *IBT* official forum site:
Quote:


> Description:
> A program that simplifies the usage of Intel(R) Linpack. Linpack by
> Intel(R) is an extremely stressful program that will put even the most pow-
> -erful X86/X64 CPU in the world at its knees. Load temp under Linpack will
> be up to 22*C higher than the competing software Prime95. This program will
> make usage of Linpack easier and more practical.
> 
> Keep in mind, use this program at your own risk. By using this program, you
> agree that neither I nor Intel shall be responsible for including, but not
> limited to: burned up CPU, fried motherboard, spontaneous room temperature
> increase, hair loss, or mental stress.
> 
> Xtreme Stress Mode (Right-click the "Start" button) allows unprecedented
> improvement of testing accuracy.
> Note: Xtreme Stress Mode may cause the CPU to heat up more than it
> already does. During testing, Windows may not be usable.
> 
> Compatibility:
> Works with Intel(R) and AMD CPUs. Tested Intel(R) Core 2(tm) Quad
> Q6600, Intel(R) Pentium(tm) III 550 MHz, AMD Athlon 64(tm) X2 4200+,
> and AMD Opteron 165 (Working with AMD processors since v1.7). Also
> tested on AMD Phenom II X4 940 Black Edition.
> 
> Tested on AMD Turion X2 Ultra ZM-82, Intel(R) Core(tm) i5 470-UM,
> Intel(R) Core(tm) i7-2600K, Intel(R) Core(tm) i7-3610QM
> 
> Tested on Microsoft(R) Windows XP Professional SP2/SP3, XP Professional
> X64 Edition SP2. Tested on Microsoft(R) Windows Vista(tm)/7 X86/X64 SP1
> by many awesome users like yourself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tested by many users on Core i7 9xx, 8xx, i5 7xx, i7 2xxx, AMD 10xxt


----------



## truckerguy

I do 20 mins of IBT


----------



## Jack Herer

so I managed to oc my system to 4.7 Ghz, seems to run solid, except the temps get a bit high, I might have hit the clg with my colling setup.


----------



## truckerguy

what are your voltages

Vcore
CPU/NB
RAM
NB


----------



## Jack Herer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> And Prime 95 and semi-stable overclocking, won't? I would say that running Prime 95 for 12 or 24 hours could be more dangerous for your CPU than running IBT for 40 min, am I right? Running Prime for a long time at 100 % of CPU utilization, hmmmm isn't that quite degrading for a CPU ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's only my opinion.
> From *IBT* official forum site:


thanks for the info


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Herer*
> 
> thanks for the info


No problem







It's up to you what will you choose for stability testing of your CPU.
*Intel Burn Test* official forum --> http://www.xgamingstudio.com/forum/showthread.php?9-RELEASE-IntelBurnTest-v2.52
I see there is a new version there 2.4


----------



## Jack Herer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> what are your voltages
> Vcore
> CPU/NB
> RAM
> NB


vcore = 1.475V
cpu/nb = 1.45V
ram = 1.5V
nb = 1.2V


----------



## truckerguy

thier is your temps Im running Ref clock at 250 multiplyer at 18 NB frquancy at 2500 HT link at 2800 ram at 2000 Vcore at 1.35 CPU/NB 1.35 ram at 1.5 NB 1.2 for 4.5Ghz

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2450951


----------



## Jack Herer

cool, thanks again, I'll check it out, I've been using OCCT and AIDA64 the last couple of weeks.


----------



## Jack Herer

here is some pics for the rest of the settings


----------



## Jack Herer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> thier is your temps Im running Ref clock at 250 multiplyer at 18 NB frquancy at 2500 HT link at 2800 ram at 2000 Vcore at 1.35 CPU/NB 1.35 ram at 1.5 NB 1.2 for 4.5Ghz
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2450951


temps are a bit high when benchmarking / testing, occt errors out after a min or two, saying core 0 has reached max temp, but for gaming and everyday use it seems rock solid so far, we'll see after a week or two


----------



## Jack Herer

idles in mid 20's


----------



## truckerguy

yes on air 1.45 is tops


----------



## Jack Herer

I have water cooling, I thought it would make a bigger difference in temps







. I got my two graphic cards and cpu on the same loop, probably not the best thing.


----------



## truckerguy

diffently get beter temps spliting them


----------



## OptimalOvrclock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Anything above 20 passes should be avoided. This software really makes your CPU sweat and extremely hot. It is not necessary to run IBT for several hours. Of course it depends on how much RAM have you got.
> I usually run it for 15 passes with settings set to Very High. That means a half of my memory is tested and then I can call it quite stable. After that I check if my memory is OK also and run MemTest for Windows and if there are no errors I consider my overclock as stable.


I was wondering what was going on. I have 16g of ram and a single pass takes about 30 mins on maximum. Temps are not really an issue at this point due to being under water. 56c is my max for now til I get to some high clocks. Takes so much longer than I thought it would.


----------



## shampoo911

ok... so i was wondering how to make my cpu, to throttle on voltages... and i wonder if it involves all the power saving features like:

C1E state
Cool n' Quiet
and i dont remember the third one... ( i know there are 3 of them that are enabled by default)

so... by default, the cpu throttles down when idle, then throttles up on load... however, when overclocked (having set a MANUAL voltage on my cpu), the voltage STAYS the same... on bios, i put 1.4375v MANUAL... not OFFSET...

1 - can someone explain me how this OFFSET feat works?
2 - can i achieve an overclock with default features? (and i mean default features as: voltage and frquency throttling)


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> ok... so i was wondering how to make my cpu, to throttle on voltages... and i wonder if it involves all the power saving features like:
> C1E state
> Cool n' Quiet
> and i dont remember the third one... ( i know there are 3 of them that are enabled by default)
> so... by default, the cpu throttles down when idle, then throttles up on load... however, when overclocked (having set a MANUAL voltage on my cpu), the voltage STAYS the same... on bios, i put 1.4375v MANUAL... not OFFSET...
> 1 - can someone explain me how this OFFSET feat works?
> 2 - can i achieve an overclock with default features? (and i mean default features as: voltage and frquency throttling)


I can only speak for my Thuban on a CHIV,
You'll need to run Offset Voltages to enable C&Q feature in bios, (no higher than 18x CPU multiplier on a CHIV).
Also check under "C/P, Power Options" and choose "Balanced" power plan. You can always disable C&Q here at this point by enabling "Performance" Plan.

I can't give you the technical explanation of Offset Voltage, but I learned it works from a Base Voltage and you simply alter the Offset same as increasing with manual setting. On a CHIV when you increase the Offset voltage it requires a reboot to save change, than simply re-enter bios and the new (current) Vcore (with the new Offset) would be displayed in the bios. This may help you to find a starting point.

As far as the OC with default voltages, I have no personal experience with FX but you should be able to achieve a minor OC. From what I've read the OEM CPU cooler is typically first to go and may be the first limiting factor. Same as any other stock cooler.


----------



## Heidi

Hi guys...

Dunno of anyone upd BIOS on Sabertooth, but I am getting way higher readings from my 120Gb HyperX...


Any thoughts?


----------



## sunset1

I know that the sales section will have this later but newegg has a promo deal on the sabertooth for 169.99 after promo code. end of month sale lots of stuff.. I like stuff.. :>
Sunset1 take a look it might be worth your while. No i dont work for them.
or check the internet sales posts.

edit... 164.99 i must have been tired.


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OptimalOvrclock*
> 
> I was wondering what was going on. I have 16g of ram and a single pass takes about 30 mins on maximum. Temps are not really an issue at this point due to being under water. 56c is my max for now til I get to some high clocks. Takes so much longer than I thought it would.


Did I understand you correctly? One, single pass took you 30 mins? Quite strange. For me (and I have 8 GB of RAM) with settings set on very high it takes up to 40 min to complete 15 passes. My average temp is from 49*C to 52*C on air (that's temperature per core not CPU temp).


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heidi*
> 
> Hi guys...
> Dunno of anyone upd BIOS on Sabertooth, but I am getting way higher readings from my 120Gb HyperX...
> 
> Any thoughts?


yes I found the same thing with my Mushkin Enhanced Chronos MKNSSDCR180GB


----------



## OptimalOvrclock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Did I understand you correctly? One, single pass took you 30 mins? Quite strange. For me (and I have 8 GB of RAM) with settings set on very high it takes up to 40 min to complete 15 passes. My average temp is from 49*C to 52*C on air (that's temperature per core not CPU temp).


Yes it took forever to run 30 runs on maximum with 16gb of ram. I am going to run high tonight. Standard when through super fast. I think the more ram you add to it the longer the test takes. I have only ran it for the past 2 days so I don't really know how it is supposed to act. 1800s+- per run. I was reading that it was much faster to run this than prime but for me it is longer on maximum.


----------



## Cartel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> ok... so i was wondering how to make my cpu, to throttle on voltages... and i wonder if it involves all the power saving features like:
> C1E state
> Cool n' Quiet
> and i dont remember the third one... ( i know there are 3 of them that are enabled by default)
> so... by default, the cpu throttles down when idle, then throttles up on load... however, when overclocked (having set a MANUAL voltage on my cpu), the voltage STAYS the same... on bios, i put 1.4375v MANUAL... not OFFSET...
> 1 - can someone explain me how this OFFSET feat works?
> 2 - can i achieve an overclock with default features? (and i mean default features as: voltage and frquency throttling)


I was going to enable c&c too yesterday and I noticed the cpu voltage didn't change too.
Then I read somewhere that if you overclock your NB, the C&C lowers NB voltages so you might get a BSOD so I disabled C&C.
I didn't notice any temp difference anyway but thats maybe because the cpu volts stayed up high.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cartel*
> 
> I was going to enable c&c too yesterday and I noticed the cpu voltage didn't change too.
> Then I read somewhere that if you overclock your NB, the C&C lowers NB voltages so you might get a BSOD so I disabled C&C.
> I didn't notice any temp difference anyway but thats maybe because the cpu volts stayed up high.


actually, im not having trouble with tn NB... i selected the HIGH option under the CPU/NB LLC


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heidi*
> 
> Hi guys...
> 
> Dunno of anyone upd BIOS on Sabertooth, but I am getting way higher readings from my 120Gb HyperX...
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?


What bios version?

Sent from my HTC EVO 3D X515a using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Heidi

BIOS 1304...official one from Asus...they obviously changed something in AHCI driver there...


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heidi*
> 
> BIOS 1304...official one from Asus...they obviously changed something in AHCI driver there...


i got the same speed readings for my corsair force gt... no difference at all... just making overclock a pain in the ass...


----------



## truckerguy

1304 OC fine for me--->

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2434847


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heidi*
> 
> Hi guys...
> Dunno of anyone upd BIOS on Sabertooth, but I am getting way higher readings from my 120Gb HyperX...
> 
> Any thoughts?


They finally updated the raid rom so that read ahead and write back can be enabled. These features help a raid0 array speeds quite a bit, but i doubt that there would be of any help to a single drive - unless there are also enhancements to the AHCI like you suggested.

Not much to go on from Asus's notes. They don't even mention the new raid rom.


----------



## Ashtyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> i got the same speed readings for my corsair force gt... no difference at all... just making overclock a pain in the ass...


I reaffirm my OC became unstable, and there was no way to make it stable.

too many overcloccking failed at star, too many black screens at restart...and values that were perfectly stable with bios 1208.

Downgrade to 1208 and again everything perfect.


----------



## Heidi

On the other hand, I've perfect overclockability with lower voltage than with 1208...strange...ATMO 4.2 with only 1.28V and 1.225V on NB...and temps are great, howering at about low 40's, for core temp...under same cooler!


----------



## Joel18

What ram goes best with the sabertooth 990 fx I'm thinking of getting Kingston genius 8gb 1600MHz, is there is other ram that you would recommend??


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joel18*
> 
> What ram goes best with the sabertooth 990 fx I'm thinking of getting Kingston genius 8gb 1600MHz, is there is other ram that you would recommend??


IMHO, i think that any brand is good...


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joel18*
> 
> What ram goes best with the sabertooth 990 fx I'm thinking of getting Kingston genius 8gb 1600MHz, is there is other ram that you would recommend??


If you have a color scheme, the corsair vengeance in green looks good, if not pretty much anything works.

Sent from my iPod touch 4 using Tapatalk


----------



## Heidi

I can only add on that my Corsair works a little bit better than my Patriot RAM...Corsair at 1666 gives better results testing it than Patriot at 1866...


----------



## shampoo911

what i am certain of... is that, ram XMP's, are not amd friendly...


----------



## usafrjc

Hello all, Im new to the Sabertooth 990FX Owners club, will post confirmation later today.

I need some help. I am running a FX-8150 and im trying to get it to run stable at around 4.5 to 5.0 ghz. would anyone be willing the share their bios settings so i can get there?

Thank you in advance!


----------



## Astrogoth

Two systems, both with Sabertooth MB's, have developed long boot delays since I updated the BIOS. It isn't the most recent one, more like two back. Anyone else seeing this?


----------



## Astrogoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joel18*
> 
> What ram goes best with the sabertooth 990 fx I'm thinking of getting Kingston genius 8gb 1600MHz, is there is other ram that you would recommend??


The Samsung "Wonder ram".


----------



## Jagged_Steel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astrogoth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Joel18*
> 
> What ram goes best with the sabertooth 990 fx I'm thinking of getting Kingston genius 8gb 1600MHz, is there is other ram that you would recommend??
> 
> 
> 
> The Samsung "Wonder ram".
Click to expand...

I can second the vote for the Samsung. Best value in RAM right now.

I am getting a new mobo in the next few days, and I am pretty sure it is going to be a Sabertooth at this point. Looking at the board layout, i am curious which PCIex16 slots are the 16x16 ones.

Is it #1 (left and tan in this picture) and #3(black), or #1 and #4? If it is #1/#4 (where they have drawn the green lines), do they include a long Crossfire bridge?


----------



## truckerguy

the tan ones


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astrogoth*
> 
> Two systems, both with Sabertooth MB's, have developed long boot delays since I updated the BIOS. It isn't the most recent one, more like two back. Anyone else seeing this?


I did with 1102


----------



## Jagged_Steel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> the tan ones


Aha. So is the Crossfire bridge they include in the box is 3 space length? I am assuming it must be if that's the two slots they reserve for CF. If I get a Sabertooth I don't want to be stuck without a CF bridge.


----------



## truckerguy

when I frist got this board I CF a pair of 5770 and used a reg bridge


----------



## Jagged_Steel

I see. So the #3 slot is 8x? I don't think my 6790s are bottlenecked on this 16x +4x setup I have now so an 8x slot would probably be fine. If I need a long CF bridge I might just go for a CHV instead. The refurbished ones I am looking at are ST $130 and CHV $150, so it would be a wash getting the CHV compared to if I wanted to use the 16x CF slots on a Sabertooth which would need 3 slot CF bridge ($15?). Hmmmm.









Edit to add: Looking at the box content pictures it looks like they do include the 3 slot CF bridge. I held A piece of paper up and marked the length and it is longer than 3 slot widths.



Edit again- It is labeled "SLI bridge". So is there no CF bridge included , only an SLI?

And again: It looks like there is only an SLI cable in the box.



Hmm. And here I was all set on a Sabertooth. If I can get a CHV for about the same price that would be better yes?


----------



## Astrogoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> I did with 1102


Ha, I'm glad you said that! I thought it was some program delaying the boot. I checked the usual system programs that list delays. Nothing.
I deleted my antivirus, thinking they're the ones to blame most often. Nope. Reinstalled MB drivers. Nada. USB3 drivers? Negative.
Some BIOS setting? Maybe but I have no way to tell.

Oh well I hope the next BIOS release will fix it.


----------



## truckerguy

it has for me 1302


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jagged_Steel*
> 
> I see. So the #3 slot is 8x? I don't think my 6790s are bottlenecked on this 16x +4x setup I have now so an 8x slot would probably be fine. If I need a long CF bridge I might just go for a CHV instead. The refurbished ones I am looking at are ST $130 and CHV $150, so it would be a wash getting the CHV compared to if I wanted to use the 16x CF slots on a Sabertooth which would need 3 slot CF bridge ($15?). Hmmmm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit to add: Looking at the box content pictures it looks like they do include the 3 slot CF bridge. I held A piece of paper up and marked the length and it is longer than 3 slot widths.
> 
> Edit again- It is labeled "SLI bridge". So is there no CF bridge included , only an SLI?
> And again: It looks like there is only an SLI cable in the box.
> 
> Hmm. And here I was all set on a Sabertooth. If I can get a CHV for about the same price that would be better yes?


if they don't let me Know you can have mine


----------



## swirusek

My M4A89TD PRO/USB3 broke on me and im not a person that would wait for replacement so went and got me this sweet thing(when M4A arrives it will be good for my other build xD)
Love the bios and cant wait to start overclocking my cpu again lol
So add me please


----------



## truckerguy

yes the 1090T dose very well on this board


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jagged_Steel*
> 
> I see. So the #3 slot is 8x? I don't think my 6790s are bottlenecked on this 16x +4x setup I have now so an 8x slot would probably be fine. If I need a long CF bridge I might just go for a CHV instead. The refurbished ones I am looking at are ST $130 and CHV $150, so it would be a wash getting the CHV compared to if I wanted to use the 16x CF slots on a Sabertooth which would need 3 slot CF bridge ($15?). Hmmmm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit to add: Looking at the box content pictures it looks like they do include the 3 slot CF bridge. I held A piece of paper up and marked the length and it is longer than 3 slot widths.
> 
> Edit again- It is labeled "SLI bridge". So is there no CF bridge included , only an SLI?
> And again: It looks like there is only an SLI cable in the box.
> 
> Hmm. And here I was all set on a Sabertooth. If I can get a CHV for about the same price that would be better yes?


All my Sabertooth boards came with both bridges, the crossfire 1 and 3 is only a standard bridge anyway and 1 and 3 are x16 x16 not x16 x8.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jagged_Steel*
> 
> I see. So the #3 slot is 8x? I don't think my 6790s are bottlenecked on this 16x +4x setup I have now so an 8x slot would probably be fine. If I need a long CF bridge I might just go for a CHV instead. The refurbished ones I am looking at are ST $130 and CHV $150, so it would be a wash getting the CHV compared to if I wanted to use the 16x CF slots on a Sabertooth which would need 3 slot CF bridge ($15?). Hmmmm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit to add: Looking at the box content pictures it looks like they do include the 3 slot CF bridge. I held A piece of paper up and marked the length and it is longer than 3 slot widths.
> 
> Edit again- It is labeled "SLI bridge". So is there no CF bridge included , only an SLI?
> And again: It looks like there is only an SLI cable in the box.
> 
> Hmm. And here I was all set on a Sabertooth. If I can get a CHV for about the same price that would be better yes?
> 
> 
> 
> All my Sabertooth boards came with both bridges, the crossfire 1 and 3 is only a standard bridge anyway and 1 and 3 are x16 x16 not x16 x8.
Click to expand...

Mine only came with a sli bridge. Weird.

Sent from my HTC EVO 3D X515a using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Jagged_Steel

I took a look at my M5A97 EVO, and to my surprise it actually uses a 3 slot length CF bridge, So I have a CF cable that will work on either a 2 slot difference (#1+#3) or 3 slot difference (#1+#4) Crossfire layout. I had completely forgotten that this board uses a 3 slot layout for the CF configuration. I actually think that is better than 2 slot spacing because you get a bit of airspace between your GPUs. From what I can gather online, it appears that #1 slot is 16x always, #3(black) is 4x always, and #4(tan) is switchable between 16x and 8x. So 3 slot CF layout is what you would want ideally.

I really didn't think I would be getting one of the top-end mobos. But now I need to make a second rig, so it means getting a cheap mobo for it and leaving this rig intact OR upgrading this rig with a better mobo and using this M5 for the other build. Since ST and CHV are both available refurbished this far along after release, I can get either one for about what I paid for this M5 last year. The CHV is listing as sold out ATM on Geeks though, so my ST or CHV decision may have been made for me.


----------



## reigndropz

Whats up everybody. I have the 8120 and I bought the Noctuna NH-14 cooler. I have tried tweaking many of the BIOS settings but can't seem to get past 4.4ghz no matter what I do. Have any of you been able to break this barrier with a similar setup?


----------



## Outd8ted

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2458927

Please add me to the list

I just purchased this board to be my first attempt at OC (please forgive anything STUPID I might ask) and after looking at several forums it seems everyone worth talking to is in here

Edit reading through the posts I learned my OCN name needs to be in my validation. If someone could tell me where to change this I will repost it at work tomorrow


----------



## Outd8ted

Stupid Question #1:

Unfortunately, instead of doing the appropriate research on my Ram, I ordered some that was on a pretty good sale and believe it is giving me compatibility issues. I bought 2 8GB kits of Patriot G2 Series 1600 MHz (PGD38G1600ELK) for $19.99 each. It is not on the QVL and a little looking revealed it was designed for Intel chips (not certain). I have already adjusted the voltage to 1.65v and the frequency accordingly and I am still getting random reboots. Doesn't seem to be triggered by anyone thing and doesn't present a BSoD (yes i disabled the auto reboot in Win 7).

Question is, has anyone found a work around to make this ram work or do I need to scrap it and buy new ram?
Also, if any of you GURUs think I'm looking in the wrong direction feel free to grab my ears and steer me.

Edit: If this has already been covered just send me to the right post. I've been trying to catch up but i'm only up to page 73.


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jagged_Steel*
> 
> I took a look at my M5A97 EVO, and to my surprise it actually uses a 3 slot length CF bridge, So I have a CF cable that will work on either a 2 slot difference (#1+#3) or 3 slot difference (#1+#4) Crossfire layout. I had completely forgotten that this board uses a 3 slot layout for the CF configuration. I actually think that is better than 2 slot spacing because you get a bit of airspace between your GPUs. From what I can gather online, it appears that #1 slot is 16x always, #3(black) is 4x always, and #4(tan) is switchable between 16x and 8x. So 3 slot CF layout is what you would want ideally.
> I really didn't think I would be getting one of the top-end mobos. But now I need to make a second rig, so it means getting a cheap mobo for it and leaving this rig intact OR upgrading this rig with a better mobo and using this M5 for the other build. Since ST and CHV are both available refurbished this far along after release, I can get either one for about what I paid for this M5 last year. The CHV is listing as sold out ATM on Geeks though, so my ST or CHV decision may have been made for me.


Slot 1 is PCIe 2.0 x16, Slot 2 is PCIe 2.0 x1, Slot 3 is PCIe 2.0 x16, Slot 4 is PCIe 2.0 x16, Slot 5 is PCI, Slot 6 is PCIe 2.0 x16. You can have dual cards at x16 x16 and Triple cards at x16 x8 x8.


----------



## pendrago

Just a quick question.
I am going to move on (it depends how one look at it) and buy FX-6100.
So far to cool down my CPU (1090 Thuban) I have used *Scythe Mugen Rev. 2* and it has been doing a good job. Temps are 18-21*C in idle and max temp *per core* under stress is 48 - 52*C (I guess it's not so bad).
Reading this forum I have found out that *FX-6100* is quite a hot CPU.
I have been thinking about it for a long time and decided to buy a water cooling system - but only for my CPU.
I don't know the efficiency of Corsair H-100 but I guess it won't be enough to beat my Scythe results.
What water cooling system could you recommend me?
Will *Antec Liquid Cooling System H2O 920* is better than Corsair or ... just I am not in to watercooling, so I feel a little bit lost. I don't care about noise - I got used to noise. It just have to be efficient enough to cool down FX (after I hopefully manage to overclock it to 4.5 GHz) to 48*C maksimum (give or take 2-3 degrees).

Any suggestions?

One thing. Do you really consider FX-6100 as more efficient than Thuban or not?
ATM those FXs' are quite cheap, so ...


----------



## Jagged_Steel

Thanks to everyone for answering my questions about the Sabertooth. In the end Geeks did have a CHV in stock this morning and I went for it.









At regular prices I would definitely have gone for a Sabertooth, but with only $20 difference on the refurbs I decided to give the CHV a whirl. Heck, at regular prices I would never have considered either of them and would probably have gotten some $60 mobo off of Egg for the wife's rig and kept the 970 for mine. This way her rig has no mysteries, I had run that 555 on this M5A97 for a year, up until last month, so if there is a learning curve with the new gear it will be with my Game rig instead of her work rig. Win Win!


----------



## Joel18

I have found new ram and it's the best that I have ever seen for $69 8gb.

Have a look here is the link: http://www.mwave.com.au/sku-37141056-GeIL_EVO_VELOCE_Series_8GB_(2x_4GB)_DDR3_Desktop_Memory_2133MHz_(PC3_17000)_CL11


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Just a quick question.
> I am going to move on (it depends how one look at it) and buy FX-6100.
> So far to cool down my CPU (1090 Thuban) I have used *Scythe Mugen Rev. 2* and it has been doing a good job. Temps are 18-21*C in idle and max temp *per core* under stress is 48 - 52*C (I guess it's not so bad).
> Reading this forum I have found out that *FX-6100* is quite a hot CPU.
> I have been thinking about it for a long time and decided to buy a water cooling system - but only for my CPU.
> I don't know the efficiency of Corsair H-100 but I guess it won't be enough to beat my Scythe results.
> What water cooling system could you recommend me?
> Will *Antec Liquid Cooling System H2O 920* is better than Corsair or ... just I am not in to watercooling, so I feel a little bit lost. I don't care about noise - I got used to noise. It just have to be efficient enough to cool down FX (after I hopefully manage to overclock it to 4.5 GHz) to 48*C maksimum (give or take 2-3 degrees).
> Any suggestions?
> 
> One thing. Do you really consider FX-6100 as more efficient than Thuban or not?
> ATM those FXs' are quite cheap, so ...


Have a look at the Rasa kits (RX360 and have room to add GPU). A little bit more money but all kinds of room to expand plus better temps. Do it right the first time, you won't be sorry!
http://www.overclock.net/t/882408/official-xspc-rasa-750-rs-rx120-240-360-kit-club


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outd8ted*
> 
> Stupid Question #1:
> Unfortunately, instead of doing the appropriate research on my Ram, I ordered some that was on a pretty good sale and believe it is giving me compatibility issues. I bought 2 8GB kits of Patriot G2 Series 1600 MHz (PGD38G1600ELK) for $19.99 each. It is not on the QVL and a little looking revealed it was designed for Intel chips (not certain). I have already adjusted the voltage to 1.65v and the frequency accordingly and I am still getting random reboots. Doesn't seem to be triggered by anyone thing and doesn't present a BSoD (yes i disabled the auto reboot in Win 7).
> Question is, has anyone found a work around to make this ram work or do I need to scrap it and buy new ram?
> Also, if any of you GURUs think I'm looking in the wrong direction feel free to grab my ears and steer me.
> Edit: If this has already been covered just send me to the right post. I've been trying to catch up but i'm only up to page 73.


both the FX 8120 and Fx 8150 run alot beter with faster ram 1866 and higher I have my 1866 ram oc to 2000Mhz and my FX 8150 responds well with it


----------



## Outd8ted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> both the FX 8120 and Fx 8150 run alot beter with faster ram 1866 and higher I have my 1866 ram oc to 2000Mhz and my FX 8150 responds well with it


Just to be clear, are you suggesting faster ram or overclocking my ram. Also, I would love an opinion on the rebooting issue as I am not certain it is the ram causing it.


----------



## Outd8ted

Think i got it right this time. Add me when you get a chance.


----------



## reigndropz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reigndropz*
> 
> Whats up everybody. I have the 8120 and I bought the Noctuna NH-14 cooler. I have tried tweaking many of the BIOS settings but can't seem to get past 4.4ghz no matter what I do. Have any of you been able to break this barrier with a similar setup?


Not trying to spam the thread, but anybody?


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Have a look at the Rasa kits (RX360 and have room to add GPU). A little bit more money but all kinds of room to expand plus better temps. Do it right the first time, you won't be sorry!
> http://www.overclock.net/t/882408/official-xspc-rasa-750-rs-rx120-240-360-kit-club


Ok! I have bought FX-6100 (unfortunately they sent me a chip with serial number *20089*, so I am
a little bit worried about overclocking capability (damn, I got no luck. Had a chip 955 BE once and its number was *00562* and overclocking was beautifully up to 4.5 GHz on air







and 1.5 core V).

Sandman... and what is the cost of all of this water cooling set? I know that it's better to pay more for better quality and less worries in the future.
I will have to look for any tutorials about WC - I have never done that. Could you recommend me any thread about it (for starters







) TIA


----------



## shampoo911

i still cannot manage to get above 2790mhz on my NB.... i dont know whick fixed voltages i should input...


----------



## willup

Updated Build log if interested, 1st page now has banner and current status. Need to get added to the club havent sent in validation yet

http://www.overclock.net/t/1276326/build-log-amd-fx-8150-nzxt-switch-810-mod-ek-h30-360-ltx-advanced-liquid-cooling-kit-magma#post_17606272


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> i still cannot manage to get above 2790mhz on my NB.... i dont know whick fixed voltages i should input...


for higher NB frequancys you need a incress in CPU/Nb voltage


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> for higher NB frequancys you need a incress in CPU/Nb voltage


for the sabertooth, what is the stock cpu/nb voltage?


----------



## truckerguy

some where in the area of 1.17 for the FX cpu


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> I will have to look for any tutorials about WC - I have never done that. Could you recommend me any thread about it (for starters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) TIA


This is the latest kit http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16071/ex-wat-211/XSPC_Raystorm_EX360_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Included_and_Free_Kill_Coil_.html?tl=g30c321s1310
Nicer kit? Yes. Really necessary? No, The RX is a beast (see link below) the EX version is more efficient with improved performance (slightly). Something to remember, a thicker radiator still needs strong static pressure fans (same for any radiator) but the thicker units require less rpm making them even more quiet.

This is what I was referring to http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14183/ex-wat-182/XSPC_Rasa_750_RX360_Universal_CPU_Triple_Radiator_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_Updated_Pump_and_RX360_Radiator_and_Free_Kill_Coil.html?tl=g30c321s1310

Here's a snip of the end of a 28 hr prime95 run (still under load) with my 1090T @ 4233MHz with NB Freq @ 3211Mhz to give you an idea of voltage vs temps. I also started out with a Mungen II so I know exactly where you're at lol.


I run the RS360, (thinner than the RX) and temps are not an issue as you can see.

The thread link I previously posted is a real good place to start.

Feel free to PM me if I can help further, or just post back here.


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> for the sabertooth, what is the stock cpu/nb voltage?


The CPU/NB default voltage is 1.162


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> This is the latest kit http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16071/ex-wat-211/XSPC_Raystorm_EX360_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Included_and_Free_Kill_Coil_.html?tl=g30c321s1310
> Nicer kit? Yes. Really necessary? No, The RX is a beast (see link below) the EX version is more efficient with improved performance (slightly). Something to remember, a thicker radiator still needs strong static pressure fans (same for any radiator) but the thicker units require less rpm making them even more quiet.


Remarkable kit but I think ... a little bit too expensive for me... but...
Quote:


> This is what I was referring to http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14183/ex-wat-182/XSPC_Rasa_750_RX360_Universal_CPU_Triple_Radiator_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_Updated_Pump_and_RX360_Radiator_and_Free_Kill_Coil.html?tl=g30c321s1310


I like this one you recommended to me







Well, it can be a lame question but in specification they wrote:
"AMD Sockets 939, 754, 940, AM2, AM3"

Would that be any problem to fit this onto Sabertooth MOBO ?
My main objective is to have watercooling system to cool down only a CPU. (Don't need it for GPU because it's already cool enough but I assume there wouldn't be any problems to adjust it for cooling down my GPU in the future).

The price is in my range







Do I need anything else besides all of those parts that are included in the kit? I guess that would be fluid right ?







I've read somewhere that *Feser One* is quite good.
Quote:


> Here's a snip of the end of a 28 hr prime95 run (still under load) with my 1090T @ 4233MHz with NB Freq @ 3211Mhz to give you an idea of voltage vs temps. I also started out with a Mungen II so I know exactly where you're at lol.


My gosh! Only 39*C per core !!! Very nice! Got this Mugen II lapped with 2 Scythe Fans (max 1800 RPM) on it. There is also one 120 mm exhaust fan on the top and one in the rear ( just right behind second pulling fan mounted on Mugen). Temp under load (3.9 GHz CPU and NB 3 Ghz) is around 52*C (but this is only when I test it with IBT - normally I think it doesn't go higher than 42*C - actually I don't know excactly).
Quote:


> I run the RS360, (thinner than the RX) and temps are not an issue as you can see.
> 
> The thread link I previously posted is a real good place to start.
> 
> Feel free to PM me if I can help further, or just post back here.


Thanks for your help







I have to read a little bit about it and I will choose sth just for my rig








One question. With this *XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 Universal CPU kit* is it possible to mount all of this outside my case (apart of waterblock of course) ? I mean of course radiator isn't going to fit in a case but I want a Pump/Reservoir was outside my case - 1 meter distance (moreless). In that case performance of pump will be enough to keep liquid pressure ?

One more time - thanks for your help


----------



## The Sandman

pendrago:
AM3 and AM3+ are the same so yes water block is not an issue.

I hear what you're saying about not needing to do the GPU, but after the CPU only loop gets a month or two old, you may start to think about adding it just because you can lol. WC does that to you a little.
My son has his 1090T and a GTX 590 (dual processor) in a RX360 and GPU rarely goes above 41 - 43c while gaming. Less heat makes things last longer and OC easier using less voltage.

The kit does have everything you'll need but I'd strongly recommend grabbing some Premochill tubing and not use the tubing that comes with the kit (7/16 x 5/8) Frozen has it. The stock tubing tends to discolor quickly.
Best thing to run is distilled water and silver kill coil, never any "fluids" or especially dyes. Buy colored tubing if you want color.
You'll also need vinegar (diluted with hot water) for a cleaning solution used to flush the new radiator. Be sure and rinse everything with diluted water.
You may opt to install a drain line which takes a plastic "T" fitting or a billet one, with a fill/drain port.

Yes it is very doable to mount radiator to either top, or back of case. Kit has mounting tabs but you may need more screws/spacers etc.
I have seen a few that run external res/pump too.
Yes the RX360 and even a 420 can fit in some cases. I can run one of each and still have room for a 240 lol.
Just like OCing, WCing is also very addicting,
Enjoy!!!


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Just a quick question.
> I am going to move on (it depends how one look at it) and buy FX-6100.
> So far to cool down my CPU (1090 Thuban) I have used *Scythe Mugen Rev. 2* and it has been doing a good job. Temps are 18-21*C in idle and max temp *per core* under stress is 48 - 52*C (I guess it's not so bad).
> Reading this forum I have found out that *FX-6100* is quite a hot CPU.
> I have been thinking about it for a long time and decided to buy a water cooling system - but only for my CPU.
> I don't know the efficiency of Corsair H-100 but I guess it won't be enough to beat my Scythe results.
> What water cooling system could you recommend me?
> Will *Antec Liquid Cooling System H2O 920* is better than Corsair or ... just I am not in to watercooling, so I feel a little bit lost. I don't care about noise - I got used to noise. It just have to be efficient enough to cool down FX (after I hopefully manage to overclock it to 4.5 GHz) to 48*C maksimum (give or take 2-3 degrees).
> Any suggestions?
> 
> One thing. Do you really consider FX-6100 as more efficient than Thuban or not?
> ATM those FXs' are quite cheap, so ...


Maybe a little late, but my FX-6100 is on a custom loop running 24/7 4.7Ghz 1.45 vcore idle 1.48 vcore under load. Idles in the low 20's and full load in the high 50's ambiend in the room is low 70's with a window unit AC 3 feet away from the tower.
Loop is swiftech mcp-655 pump, swiftech 120x2 rad, xspc rasa universal gpu block, and enzotech sapire cpu block.


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> pendrago:
> AM3 and AM3+ are the same so yes water block is not an issue.


I know but wanted to be 101 % sure :>

Quote:


> I hear what you're saying about not needing to do the GPU, but after the CPU only loop gets a month or two old, you may start to think about adding it just because you can lol. WC does that to you a little.
> My son has his 1090T and a GTX 590 (dual processor) in a RX360 and GPU rarely goes above 41 - 43c while gaming. Less heat makes things last longer and OC easier using less voltage.


It is just not a matter that I don't need WC for my GPU, because it would be great to cool down my graphic card (MSI Cyclone has very effective radiator but there is one drawback. It generates a lot of heat which stays in a case and additionally warms up other computer components - my GPU is quite near Northbridge).
ATM it is only a matter of an amount of money I can assign for this purchase ;P
Quote:


> The kit does have everything you'll need but I'd strongly recommend grabbing some Premochill tubing and not use the tubing that comes with the kit (7/16 x 5/8) Frozen has it. The stock tubing tends to discolor quickly.
> Best thing to run is distilled water and silver kill coil, never any "fluids" or especially dyes.


Could you explain me in plain words what does "silver kill coil" mean ? I don't know the terminology, so I am a little bit confused.








Quote:


> Buy colored tubing if you want color.
> You'll also need vinegar (diluted with hot water) for a cleaning solution used to flush the new radiator. Be sure and rinse everything with diluted water.
> You may opt to install a drain line which takes a plastic "T" fitting or a billet one, with a fill/drain port.
> 
> Yes it is very doable to mount radiator to either top, or back of case. Kit has mounting tabs but you may need more screws/spacers etc.
> I have seen a few that run external res/pump too.
> Yes the RX360 and even a 420 can fit in some cases. I can run one of each and still have room for a 240 lol.
> Just like OCing, WCing is also very addicting,
> Enjoy!!!


I am very glad you've given me this short introduction to WC. I am aware that this is not special thread for this kind of discussions, so sorry for a little offtopic.
The main problem now is with availability of those WC kits you've mentioned. It's quite hard to find any online shop which would have everything what I need and not what they have actually in their selling offer. Got to search for it and maybe I will be lucky to find it.
Thanks for your help and of course +1 REP for you








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> Maybe a little late, but my FX-6100 is on a custom loop running 24/7 4.7Ghz 1.45 vcore idle 1.48 vcore under load. Idles in the low 20's and full load in the high 50's ambiend in the room is low 70's with a window unit AC 3 feet away from the tower.
> Loop is swiftech mcp-655 pump, swiftech 120x2 rad, xspc rasa universal gpu block, and enzotech sapire cpu block.


For those temps one could kill ;P As I wrote the only problem now is the amount of money I can spend.
Got some other question though for you. I have already bought FX-6100 and as I wrote a few post earlier its serial no. is *20089*.
And I am wondering if it really affects this CPU's overclocking capability ? I mean it's quite high and from my experience those CPU which had lower serial number were easier to overclock. I haven't unboxed it yet, so maybe I should search for another one?
I'll check out this swiftech you have ... thanks!


----------



## The Sandman

Silver kill coil http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11441/ex-tub-705/IandH_Silver_KillCoils_-_Antimicrobial_999_Fine_Silver_Tubing_Reservoir_Strip.html?tl=g30c103s1676 is used to prevent any grow inside the loop. It is placed inside the reservoir, done.

Feel free to PM me if there's anything else I can help with.


----------



## Astrogoth

Optimal Samsung WonderRAM settings?

Howdy,

I've pressed my AMD FX-8150 to 4.5Ghz (62C) on room air and that's gonna be it for now. So I turn to the RAM settings. I have 8GB of Samsung WonderRAM running 1866 / 9-9-9 24 2T @ 1.325Volts. Anything faster (8-8-8, 8-9-8 24) boots but isn't stable even at a higher DRAM voltage.

So I ask the RAM experts: What do I need to tweak to get a faster result?

Thanks!


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astrogoth*
> 
> Optimal Samsung WonderRAM settings?
> Howdy,
> I've pressed my AMD FX-8150 to 1.5Ghz (62C) on room air and that's gonna be it for now. So I turn to the RAM settings.
> I have 8GB of Samsung WonderRAM running 9-9-9 24 2T @ 1.325Volts. Anything faster (8-8-8, 8-9-8 24) boots but
> isn't stable even at a higher DRAM voltage.
> So I ask the RAM experts: What do I need to tweak to get a faster result?
> Thanks!


By room air do you mean you don't have a CPU cooler installed?


----------



## Astrogoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> By room air do you mean you don't have a CPU cooler installed?


Is that some kind of joke? At 4.5Ghz of course I have a fan on it, just not a liquid cooler.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astrogoth*
> 
> Optimal Samsung WonderRAM settings?
> Howdy,
> I've pressed my AMD FX-8150 to 1.5Ghz (62C) on room air and that's gonna be it for now. So I turn to the RAM settings.
> I have 8GB of Samsung WonderRAM running 9-9-9 24 2T @ 1.325Volts. Anything faster (8-8-8, 8-9-8 24) boots but
> isn't stable even at a higher DRAM voltage.
> So I ask the RAM experts: What do I need to tweak to get a faster result?
> Thanks!


Current OC settings needed here so we know where you're starting from.
Also what voltage/s have you increased, and to what level?

I have 8GBs running at 1.55v with no issues (but this is 890F chipset)


----------



## sunset1

there was obviously a typo in the post where you stated 1.5 gig... take a look. :>
Sunset1


----------



## Sabertooth8150

Hi guys. New member here. I have ASUS Sabertooth 990FX in my new rig, it boots fine and we are moving to software install tomorrow. I wanted 16GB of ram because alongside Gaming I also do PhotoShop and Video rendering, so I bought 2 Mushkin 8GB 1600MHz sticks. The Sabertooth only sees 1 stick, and it sees both sticks, just not together. Ive tried different slots to no avail. Also, when the OCing feature is turned to "ON", the ram comes in at 1550MHz not 1600Mhz, when its "disabled" its 1600MHz. Is this a mb issue? Must I install Win7 for it to see other ram chip? This board says it supports 1600Mhz, and up to 32GB ram (which is 4 x 8GB). Any help would be appreciated.

CPU: AMD FX8150
GPU: Sapphire 6950 2GB DiRT3 Ed.
PSU: Kentek 1050watt
RAM: Mushkin 2 x 8GB 1600MHz
MB: ASUS Sabertooth 990FX


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sabertooth8150*
> 
> Hi guys. New member here. I have ASUS Sabertooth 990FX in my new rig, it boots fine and we are moving to software install tomorrow. I wanted 16GB of ram because alongside Gaming I also do PhotoShop and Video rendering, so I bought 2 Mushkin 8GB 1600MHz sticks. The Sabertooth only sees 1 stick, and it sees both sticks, just not together. Ive tried different slots to no avail. Also, when the OCing feature is turned to "ON", the ram comes in at 1550MHz not 1600Mhz, when its "disabled" its 1600MHz. Is this a mb issue? Must I install Win7 for it to see other ram chip? This board says it supports 1600Mhz, and up to 32GB ram (which is 4 x 8GB). Any help would be appreciated.
> CPU: AMD FX8150
> GPU: Sapphire 6950 2GB DiRT3 Ed.
> PSU: Kentek 1050watt
> RAM: Mushkin 2 x 8GB 1600MHz
> MB: ASUS Sabertooth 990FX


are you sure that you are inserting the rams ALL THE WAY IN?


----------



## Sabertooth8150

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> are you sure that you are inserting the rams ALL THE WAY IN?


Yes they are snapping in firmly. We tested the sticks in another build and they are good.


----------



## sunset1

one problem i have had with installing the mushkin low profile memory is that the heat spreaders can be pushed down too far to make good contact. I usually use my thumbnails to push the edge of the memory not the heatsinks in after i have moved the heatspreaders up so they wont stop it from being inserted incorrectly.

Also remove all memory first and check the inside channels of the memory slots for any debree. Be very carefull remving any small pieces of ? that might be stuck in there as you can easily damage the slot. I use a can of air with a small tube (straw) that comes with the can of air. It usually does the trick.

Mushkin memory seems to me to be thicker than some other brands i have used so remember to use equal force on both sides not one side at a time to insert.

If the memory is seen in every slot the slots are ok. the memory controller is on the
Edit: the memory controller is on the cpu chip.

Yes you should see all memory in the bios. Many times i have to reseat the memory to get it to be seen. Also there is more than one profile that will be shown in the bios. In my board the muskin red 2133 runs at 2000 with a auto overclock.
Make sure the memory is running with at least the rated voltage.. mine run at 1.65 i belive.
hope this helps.
Sunset1


----------



## alpsie

Hi all, I just resently put a pc together from my twin brother.
he is using this motherboard, but getting some weird issues, at times when playing any games online he will get dced, but can reconect right away, and windows log dont show any errors.

Ive tried to uninstall the ethernet driver and reinstall it, but it havent fixed the issue.
Any ideas?


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sabertooth8150*
> 
> Yes they are snapping in firmly. We tested the sticks in another build and they are good.


use the same channel btw... i.e.: slots 1-3, or slots 2-4


----------



## sunset1

thanks i meant to say that about dual channel. I was interupped while posting and forgot to put it in. :>


----------



## Astrogoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Current OC settings needed here so we know where you're starting from.
> Also what voltage/s have you increased, and to what level?
> I have 8GBs running at 1.55v with no issues (but this is 890F chipset)


How fast at 1.55V are you going? 8-8-8?


----------



## dankvwguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpsie*
> 
> Hi all, I just resently put a pc together from my twin brother.
> he is using this motherboard, but getting some weird issues, at times when playing any games online he will get dced, but can reconect right away, and windows log dont show any errors.
> Ive tried to uninstall the ethernet driver and reinstall it, but it havent fixed the issue.
> Any ideas?


open up command prompt and run a constant ping on google or another popular site. if you dont know how to get there just open your start menu, type CMD (if you are on win 7) in the search window at the bottom and open cmd.exe (command prompt). once its open just type "ping google.com /t" and let it do its thing. go play the game and when he gets disconnected let him reconnect, then alt tab back to the desktop and see if any packets have dropped. that will tell you right away if its your ethernet port.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astrogoth*
> 
> Is that some kind of joke? At 4.5Ghz of course I have a fan on it, just not a liquid cooler.


You made a typo and said 1.5GHz instead of 4.5GHz XD I figured with super-low voltage a heatsink with no fan could handle that


----------



## Astrogoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> You made a typo and said 1.5GHz instead of 4.5GHz XD I figured with super-low voltage a heatsink with no fan could handle that


Gotcha. That's what happens when I type in the dark.


----------



## Rastis

Hi Guys,

just looking for some expertize in raid on this board, I have had mine since christmas last year and over the last two months I have been huge issues with the raid. I run a 120 gb SSD as primary drive and 2 x 1tb Seagate in raid 0 as my game drive on the Jmicron controller. Now for some reason the raid array disappears from windows. Boot the machine and it is there and can be access but after about 10 minutes it just simply drops off. Log out and reboot and it is back. Repeat ,repeat , repeat............

I have flashed bios changed sata cables and tested drives with seatools and can't seem to fix the issue....... at wits end here just about to say stuff it and by another mainboard but I would rather not

Any help and advice would be apreciated.


----------



## sunset1

what bios are you running? it might help the raid guys to know. ;>
good luck.
sunset1


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rastis*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> just looking for some expertize in raid on this board, I have had mine since christmas last year and over the last two months I have been huge issues with the raid. I run a 120 gb SSD as primary drive and 2 x 1tb Seagate in raid 0 as my game drive on the Jmicron controller. Now for some reason the raid array disappears from windows. Boot the machine and it is there and can be access but after about 10 minutes it just simply drops off. Log out and reboot and it is back. Repeat ,repeat , repeat............
> I have flashed bios changed sata cables and tested drives with seatools and can't seem to fix the issue....... at wits end here just about to say stuff it and by another mainboard but I would rather not
> Any help and advice would be apreciated.


Be sure and check for firmware updates, especially the Seagates. A quick Google search shows 1TB Seagate drives (slightly older mind you) have had issues dropping out of Windows which was repaired with update.

While I only follow through this thread (have a CHIV not a Sabertooth) I do recall something about the latest Sabertooth bios updating the Raid Rom which requires the correct version Raid Driver to match. I'm running a modified bios on my CHIV which includes this very same Raid Rom update.
You may want to check what version you're running. http://support.amd.com/us/gpudownload/windows/Pages/raid_windows.aspx

Hope this is of some help!


----------



## Rastis

Thanks,

I will look into a firmware update on the drives they are both older drives I have had lying around for over 12 mths....

I am running the latest bios 1304

I had another play around last night and now I can't get them to appear in windows at all but the raid bios shows them mounted and ready to rock. If anyone is running raided drives and can give me any pointers, it could be something as simple as a wrong bois setting one that i missed


----------



## Rastis

Again thanks guys

I did the firmware update on the drives and did a complete install using Sean's Window 7 optimizing Guide last night.

Worked a treat looks like I am back in business.............


----------



## shampoo911

can someone please explain, what phase control is? im trying to optimize my rig in power managament


----------



## dimwit13

Is there a sensor in the bios that has an alarm for the gpu, like the one for the cpu?
Did that make sense?
Would there be a sensor that turns off the gpu?
The reason i ask is, i bought a msi 7950 and a waterblock and installed it, and after 20 -30 seconds it shuts off /shuts down, not the system, just the gpu.
I used another card to install windows.
When i run the 7950 it shows the bios for 10 -15seconds then stops and when i boot into windows, it runs until the desktop shows up, then stops.
I am installing it on a new ssd, so i dont think it is a driver issue and the card isnt even warn when it shuts down.
As for the sensor, i ask because, since i dont have a fan connected to the card, would it be known in the bios?
I know this is a long shot, but i want to try / ask EVERYTHING before i yank the waterblock off, reinstall the stock hsf and rma the dang thing.

thanks

-dimwit-

FIXED


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> can someone please explain, what phase control is? im trying to optimize my rig in power managament


When a board has more then 1 circuit supplying voltage to the cpu each circuit is called a phase. Each circuit use one choke 2 to 3 transistors(or a single intergrated circuit replacing the transistors) 1 or more electrolytic capacitors and 1 MOSFET
A two phase oboard has two of thes circuit both circuit are never both on at the sametime they are working out-of-phase hence the name "Phase"

a 2 phase bore will be a 50% board a 3 phase 33.3% a 4 phase 25% and so on. The benifet to this is a board that lasts longer and less heat


----------



## willup

Build log updated with all new parts being added very soon going to be working this whole weekend to finish all the modding and finally finish this build. This thing is going to be a beast.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1276326/build-log-amd-fx-8150-nzxt-switch-810-mod-ek-h30-360-ltx-advanced-liquid-cooling-kit-magma/20


----------



## OptimalOvrclock

Well I went ahead with the Bios Update and was not aware it would erase my saved profile informaton. What a pain. All that work and I wrote down none of it. =(


----------



## Tweeky

you should not use saved profile from one bios to another bios

each bios is written different and are not compatible with old bios profiles


----------



## Darth Llama

Any thoughts on the Sabertooth 990FX-R2?
http://rog.asus.com/141502012/crosshair-v-motherboards/memory-performance-gains-on-the-crosshair-v-formula-z-sabertooth-990fx-r2-0/
http://www.asus.com.au/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R20/#specifications
(My 790fx msi finally bios flopped and I always wanted a asus board)


----------



## truckerguy

The Sabertooth is a very soild board


----------



## willup

Couple Teaser Photos of my build which will be finished this weekend






Need to take more pics because its 90% put together right now and looks great

Will be adding to my build log in a couple days


----------



## Dnoces

Willup, nice looking build!! I know myself and a few others on thiss thread would be interested to know what water blocks you have chosen to use, and weather you have recorded before/after temps


----------



## sunset1

I have always been stubborn and hardheaded but Im so glad i lI liistened to the guys when they said get a sabertooth. This is the easiest board i have ever worked with. I have never really overclocked but i did buy good parts and with no tweaking my fx-8120 was auto overclocked to 3.8- 3.9 automatic! NO issues whatsoever. I did a lot of reading in this forum and if you get one these guys are the best in terms of helping out. That has never happened to me before OCN. I have been building computers for 17 years. oh and even tho im on a bulldozer I feel that there is a lot of overclocking to do. Take it for what its worth... oh and 5 year warranty.
btw newegg has a combo sale on sabertooth with a 8120 for 299 if that interests you. Not everyone wants a 8120. either way good luck. if you did get one you have the benifit of a lot of questions , issues solved already in the thread.
Sunset1

And for the genleman with the previous photos... Drool! I have to get off this ipad (outside) and go to my computer to check that beauty out. I will be subbing that tread. :>








Sunset1


----------



## willup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dnoces*
> 
> Willup, nice looking build!! I know myself and a few others on thiss thread would be interested to know what water blocks you have chosen to use, and weather you have recorded before/after temps


Thanks I really appreciate it! Put alot of work into this build. Well post results on my build log and exactly what cooling blocks I used. Got another teaser pic coming soon


----------



## willup

Get ready. Get Set. Feast your eyes on this! Got my new pump today Swifttech MCP655 with bitspower red mod Looks fantastic!



















Where im going to mount the pump with my new res directly attached



Still got to Make a new acrylic cover for the psu and that should be about it









Get the new res tomorrow its this here:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_657&products_id=30839&zenid=0f7fb129519459a455fcb79a8b65cc87

Also performance-pcs.com has the MCP655 with already tapped for g1/4 threading. Suggest you go there if you don't like barbs hehe and save yourself some money like I did.


----------



## grunion

Got mine in today, it posted









First AMD board, how the heck do you overclock, any good tuts?


----------



## Xerosnake90

Just got mine today too. Having trouble gettings windows installed (made a post about it below) but it seems pretty top notch. Can't wait to get everything running!


----------



## ITAngel

Nice water cool setup. Looking forward to seeing the entire project finished.


----------



## THC Butterz

Sorry its been awile but the spreadsheet is updated, and all the links should be working


----------



## Sabertooth8150

Well, we couldnt figure out the ram issue. So we mixmatched ram chips and ended up with 16GB (1x8GB, 2x2GB, 1x4GB) and it read them all. Now, I've heard it's bad to mixmatch ram....but how bad is it? Also, how complicated is it to upgrade BIOS (I'm at 0901 and terrified of bricking it) and do I need to?


----------



## sunset1

updating the bios in windows is relatively painless... you just clidk on a button with the suppied software. I might add a lot easier than what you just went thru. I dont have access to the computer now so maybe you can go to the asus website and read up on it.
sunset1


----------



## DevilDriver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sabertooth8150*
> 
> Well, we couldnt figure out the ram issue. So we mixmatched ram chips and ended up with 16GB (1x8GB, 2x2GB, 1x4GB) and it read them all. Now, I've heard it's bad to mixmatch ram....but how bad is it? Also, how complicated is it to upgrade BIOS (I'm at 0901 and terrified of bricking it) and do I need to?


I would mess around with the dif bios's if I were you. I got my best oc on 0813.
With this mobo it is very easy to update. You can download and update from with in windows using the ASUS software, or you can download the file to usb thumb drive, and update from with in the UEFI.

Try a few out and see which one your system works best with.


----------



## Mr-Mechraven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sabertooth8150*
> 
> Well, we couldnt figure out the ram issue. So we mixmatched ram chips and ended up with 16GB (1x8GB, 2x2GB, 1x4GB) and it read them all. Now, I've heard it's bad to mixmatch ram....but how bad is it? Also, how complicated is it to upgrade BIOS (I'm at 0901 and terrified of bricking it) and do I need to?


It is really easy to update the bios on the Sabertooth, but please please please _make a backup of your current bios before you do update._

Goto the Asus website and download both the updated bios and whatever current bios you are using ( 0901 ). Extract them to USB Stick or other Media to a folder that can be easily found ( Burn to CD if you wish, or use a Hard Drive ), when extracted you will then see it as a .ROM file. You can then go into BIO's Flash Utility and update by finding your saved bios ROM files and picking the latest one. Hope this helps

ALWAYS MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A BACKUP OF THE CURRENT BIOS BEFORE YOU UPDATE, BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY


----------



## hot noisy calculator

Looks like I'm going to stick with the new 1304 bios, it seems to have made high multipliers more useful for me, I may have lost a couple MHz in ram though.

5.0ghz at 1.45v, 2400mhz memory

Of course it's not stable, I'm still on air, but it was stable enough to validate.









I can't wait till winter....


----------



## Captain Nemo

What kind of temp are you getting with that H80? I seem to be running hot but not sure.

Nemo


----------



## Captain Nemo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Branish*
> 
> I take it you probably don't have access to a third PSU to try? It sounds like it's probably the power supply since it made the noise even on the Gigabyte board. I had a PC Power and Cooling Silencer MKII and there was no noise. With the Seasonic I'm running now it's silent as well. If you have a friend who has a quality PSU they can lend you I'd give that a shot as it really sounds like it's the power supply. I'm not a proper tech guy so I may be wrong. But with my experience with this board I've not run into any noise issues and I'm running at 1.42V. Aside from the sound of airflow my rig is very quiet.


I had that exact problem. I thought it was insufficient powerwith my old MB and CPU, and after I bought the Sabertooth it just fried so I bought a new 850 watt PSU. My old one was a 650 watt PSU. It so couldn't handle the mb plus dual NVidia gpu's.


----------



## sunset1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sabertooth8150*
> 
> Well, we couldnt figure out the ram issue. So we mixmatched ram chips and ended up with 16GB (1x8GB, 2x2GB, 1x4GB) and it read them all. Now, I've heard it's bad to mixmatch ram....but how bad is it? Also, how complicated is it to upgrade BIOS (I'm at 0901 and terrified of bricking it) and do I need to?


Im sorry you had issues with the sabertooth. maybe i can shed some light on what is happening.
First, I didnt read all of the posts so bear with me.
1. update bios in windows making sure you dont have any overclock when doing so. Make sure you have a stable system. If you dont do the dos method.

2. I have noticed in the past that my muskin memory is hard to install. I really like this memory so I just consider it part of the process. The heat spreaders on my memory have the rounded top. and seem to be thicker than some brands. This is just my observation. So when you are inserting them slide the heat spreader up a bit because the heat spreader can stop the memory from inserting all the way. Then so it seats properly i use my thumbnails on each outside edge of the board of the memory stick. The board sticks out just a bit past the heatsink. then i use alternating pressure to seat the memory into the board. Many times i do this outside the case because i put a fair amount of pressure on the sticks. The locking tabs will lock into place and i push just a bit harder to make sure the memory seats. Some motherboards dont have adequate support under the memory area for this because the screws are spread out too far in the memory area. Take you time and be firm but not abusive. if that makes sense.

The reason for the bios update is some bios (later) fix some memory issues. Once you have the system running rock solid you can move forward.

I didnt read up on your power supply or chip. Some cpu chips only support 1333. if you take your time and read thru the posts on this thread you will solve a lot of problems that you could run into because of people that have gone before you.

This board supports dual channel so you want to have the same memory in say slot 1 & 3 or 2 and 4. There is information abut this in the manual. I wouldnt run it any other way because you paid good money for a fast stable board. If you still have issues contact asus. You should not be having this issue.

Oh memory is static sensitive. And make sure the motherboard is either not plugged in or power supply turned off as the newer boards have power to them when turned off. You can kill components.

If you havent tried this put in one stick of memory at a time, and run memtest. There is also a microsoft memory checker but the name escapes me now. I start with a bootable cd and run from dos. Usually i find a iso.. image and burn it to the cd so no other programs are running when i test.

hope this helps and if im repeating advise sorry i just didnt have time today to re-read the posts.
sunset1


----------



## Citra

The bios update may help, with the original one I could not run my ram at 1600mhz.

Sent from my iPad


----------



## willup

Ok guys unfortunate news. Before I put the liquid cooling block on my VRM is was hitting critical temps at 80 celicus plus. Now with max load its hitting 73 celicus max load. I might have to change my loop to find if it changes the temps I am right now Overclocked at 4.675 and that is the max I will go for now. My sabertooth for some reason the VRM is getting really hot I wonder if a bios setting I am missing over something because it should get that hot especially on water.......


----------



## Walking Dude

pretty sure this is not the place to ask this question, so please direct me to the approp. place to ask it. dont have a cpu-z yet cause i only have the sabertooth and the bulldozer. plus the switch 810 case. i need to know where to go from here as far as the rest of the build. money no problem up to a point. watercooled. had the cpu and mobo for several months, but life got in the way. then i found out i have terminal bone marrow cancer, so would like to get this build up and going while i still can.

TIA

wd


----------



## willup

Just an update in case you were wondering what my build looks like atm. Sadly I have to RMA the board because something is wrong with the VRM. Even watercooled it is hitting 80 celicus while all over components don't go over 40. Im sure at this point it is the motherboard itself causing all the problems. Tried re-seating the liquid cooling block 3 times with not change in temps. Kinda upset that I keep running into problems however the rig looks amazing.

NZXT Switch 810 case heavily modded
EK Coolstream XT 360 rad on top and 240 on bottom
Total of 13 fans running
Custom white Acrylic wall installed and SSD mounted to it.
Just need to mod a PSU cover and the look will be done. Crossing my fingers Asus will get back to me soon and I can get my rig perfect


----------



## Tweeky

Walking Dude

Memory these are some of the best at this time

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007611%20600006050%20600006142%20600006157&IsNodeId=1&bop=And&CompareItemList=147%7C20%2D231%2D476%5E20%2D231%2D476%2DTS%2C20%2D231%2D518%5E20%2D231%2D518%2DTS%2C20%2D226%2D199%5E20%2D226%2D199%2DTS

CPU (air) coolers

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100008000&IsNodeId=1&bop=And&ActiveSearchResult=True&CompareItemList=574%7C35%2D118%2D097%5E35%2D118%2D097%2DTS%2C35%2D709%2D004%5E35%2D709%2D004%2DTS%2C35%2D608%2D018%5E35%2D608%2D018%2DTS%2C35%2D118%2D074%5E35%2D118%2D074%2DTS

Power supply

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007657%2050001459%20600014024&IsNodeId=1&name=801W%20-%20900W

Video card (two of the same card will be nessary for crossfire)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007709%20600286767%20600286739&IsNodeId=1&bop=And&CompareItemList=48%7C14%2D150%2D589%5E14%2D150%2D589%2DTS%2C14%2D150%2D588%5E14%2D150%2D588%2DTS%2C14%2D150%2D601%5E14%2D150%2D601%2DTS%2C14%2D150%2D616%5E14%2D150%2D616%2DTS%2C14%2D150%2D590%5E14%2D150%2D590%2DTS

hard drives and/or SSD drives (use more than one hard drive of the same for Raid 0 set up) data storage

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136795

one or two SSD for a boot drive (if you use more than one of the same you can set them up in Raid 0)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100008120%2050001504%20600038519%20600038463&IsNodeId=1&bop=And&CompareItemList=636%7C20%2D226%2D247%5E20%2D226%2D247%2DTS%2C20%2D226%2D236%5E20%2D226%2D236%2DTS

optic drive

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106335

these are what i would put in my computer with the motherboard and CPU that you have

the use of water cooling is more complicated


----------



## toyz72

i had a quick question for you sabertooth owner's. i'm doing a build for a friend and this is the board he decided on. i'm looking at this memory, but i'm not sure if it will work out only bing 1.35v? or should i just go 1.5v to be safe?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233244


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> i had a quick question for you sabertooth owner's. i'm doing a build for a friend and this is the board he decided on. i'm looking at this memory, but i'm not sure if it will work out only bing 1.35v? or should i just go 1.5v to be safe?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233244


I use G.Skill Sniper (1600 mhz) ram which is 1.25v and they work great. I'm pretty sure ram that runs at 1.35v will be just fine


----------



## hot noisy calculator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hot noisy calculator*
> 
> Looks like I'm going to stick with the new 1304 bios, it seems to have made high multipliers more useful for me, I may have lost a couple MHz in ram though.
> 5.0ghz at 1.45v, 2400mhz memory
> Of course it's not stable, I'm still on air, but it was stable enough to validate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't wait till winter....


Sorry I need to edit this, these have been my findings, yours may vary (revision 1 Sabertooth FX8120)

1208 bios: High HTTlink (FSB, Bus) was easy, high multiplier was not. I could run at 300+ httlink but anything over 19x multiplier required way too much voltage.

1304 bios: High HTTlink (FSB, Bus) is not easy, but now high multiplier is. Having trouble with 250+ httlink but 25x multiplier (maybe more) is a breeze.

I hope maybe this saves someone some time, or helps them make a decision. Have a great day.


----------



## sunset1

willup.. sorry to hear that hope all goes well. And fast. :>
sunset1


----------



## sunset1

yup i just started to install my closed loop cooler to one of my video cards and inspected it carefully and one of the connections to the rad was not right. Sending it back.. and realized i missed the rebate.. 20 days.. But better safe than sorry. :>
sunset1


----------



## Walking Dude

thankx tweeky!


----------



## sunset1

Hot noisy calculator... thanks bud I have the same setup.. :>


----------



## sunset1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walking Dude*
> 
> pretty sure this is not the place to ask this question, so please direct me to the approp. place to ask it. dont have a cpu-z yet cause i only have the sabertooth and the bulldozer. plus the switch 810 case. i need to know where to go from here as far as the rest of the build. money no problem up to a point. watercooled. had the cpu and mobo for several months, but life got in the way. then i found out i have terminal bone marrow cancer, so would like to get this build up and going while i still can.
> TIA
> wd


Wow sorry to hear that bud. I dont know how i missed that the first read thru.
Good luck with the build. And the bod. :> Ill say a prayer for you tonight. Say hi to your dog for me. :>
Sunset1


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willup*
> 
> Ok guys unfortunate news. Before I put the liquid cooling block on my VRM is was hitting critical temps at 80 celicus plus. Now with max load its hitting 73 celicus max load. I might have to change my loop to find if it changes the temps I am right now Overclocked at 4.675 and that is the max I will go for now. My sabertooth for some reason the VRM is getting really hot I wonder if a bios setting I am missing over something because it should get that hot especially on water.......


Before you RMA Id recofigure your cooling loop you have cool fuilded going to the gpu getting very hot then into the mobo cooling Id put the gpu on its owen loop the mobo and cpu on another loop


----------



## sunset1

can you tell for sure that the sink is hitting the vrms? Im not well versed on water but it seems that the temps would be more constant if it was.. Just a thought. Water guys please correct me if i am wrong.
Sunset1


----------



## willup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> Before you RMA Id recofigure your cooling loop you have cool fuilded going to the gpu getting very hot then into the mobo cooling Id put the gpu on its owen loop the mobo and cpu on another loop


Ok was thinking that however the VRMS are before the CPU andf the CPU temps don't go passed 44 celicus in fact all other components don't go passed 44 Celsius except the VRM. And the VRM are in the middle of the loop. If heat transfer was working correctly other components should and would be directly affected by the VRM which doesn't seem to be the case. Something is wrong with the motherboard for sure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> can you tell for sure that the sink is hitting the vrms? Im not well versed on water but it seems that the temps would be more constant if it was.. Just a thought. Water guys please correct me if i am wrong.
> Sunset1


Yeah thought that too I checked it a re-seated the block 3 times its for sure hitting. But as further testing goes I know what ASUS did wrong with my board.

While stress testing I can touch the heat transfer plate inside the computer. The heat transfer plate is directly attached to the block itself. Temps showing 75 celcius in Asus AI but the heat transfer plate is cool to the touch!? Go to touch the back plate and WOW its like touching lava. Even the stock heatsink when it was installed didn't seem the dissipate heat at all. Even with stock cooling there becomes a clear point where the temps stop going higher. This never happened with the VRM. The temps would keep climbing and climbing as if there was no end in sight. Now you may be thinking im using too much volts. NO, in fact the CPU volts are 1.43 and the CPU/NB 1.21 overclocked at to 4.6ghz. In my eyes Im not pushing things on my rig at all. I believe the VRMs were in fact installed backwards! Stock heatsink didn't do a thing besides having amazing airflow and a total of 13 fans in my case. Also installed the liquid cooling block I know others that have installed this and I did it exactly as they did and don't reach temps of over 48 Celsius on the VRMS. From day one the VRM on my motherboard has been an apparent issue. I am getting a replacement from amazon in the next two days. Looking at the board with no heatsink or back plate the VRMS look almost exactly the same on the top and bottom of the motherboard. It would be very easy to install backwards if you were not careful. LOL Would explain why I can't dissipate heat at all!


----------



## willup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> Before you RMA Id recofigure your cooling loop you have cool fuilded going to the gpu getting very hot then into the mobo cooling Id put the gpu on its owen loop the mobo and cpu on another loop


Ok was thinking that however the VRMS are before the CPU andf the CPU temps don't go passed 44 celicus in fact all other components don't go passed 44 Celsius except the VRM. And the VRM are in the middle of the loop. If heat transfer was working correctly other components should and would be directly affected by the VRM which doesn't seem to be the case. Something is wrong with the motherboard for sure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> can you tell for sure that the sink is hitting the vrms? Im not well versed on water but it seems that the temps would be more constant if it was.. Just a thought. Water guys please correct me if i am wrong.
> Sunset1


Yeah thought that too I checked it a re-seated the block 3 times its for sure hitting. But as further testing goes I know what ASUS did wrong with my board.

While stress testing I can touch the heat transfer plate inside the computer. The heat transfer plate is directly attached to the block itself. Temps showing 75 celcius in Asus AI but the heat transfer plate is cool to the touch!? Go to touch the back plate and WOW its like touching lava. Even the stock heatsink when it was installed didn't seem the dissipate heat at all. Even with stock cooling there becomes a clear point where the temps stop going higher. This never happened with the VRM. The temps would keep climbing and climbing as if there was no end in sight. Now you may be thinking im using too much volts. NO, in fact the CPU volts are 1.43 and the CPU/NB 1.21 overclocked at to 4.6ghz. In my eyes Im not pushing things on my rig at all. I believe the VRMs were in fact installed backwards! Stock heatsink didn't do a thing besides having amazing airflow and a total of 13 fans in my case. Also installed the liquid cooling block I know others that have installed this and I did it exactly as they did and don't reach temps of over 48 Celsius on the VRMS. From day one the VRM on my motherboard has been an apparent issue. I am getting a replacement from amazon in the next two days. Looking at the board with no heatsink or back plate the VRMS look almost exactly the same on the top and bottom of the motherboard. It would be very easy to install backwards if you were not careful. LOL Would explain why I can't dissipate heat at all!

EDIT:

Oh yeah forgot to mention im not overclocking my GPU at all its mainly for bling factor

TEMPS AT LOAD

GPU- 32 Celsius
NB- 34 Celsius
CPU- 44 Celsius
VRM- *80+ CELSIUS*


----------



## hot noisy calculator

I'm not sure if this is helpful to anyone here or not.

I'm running windows 8 prerelease with an FX-8120 on a Sabertooth Rev 1. I couldn't get the W7 Asus suite to work on my pc and I was really curious where my vrm temp was at so I tried installing the Asus suite for W8 and the Sabertooth Rev 2...it seems to work. I would only recommend you use it for monitoring though.

If you run an FX-8xxx I strongly recommend you give W8 a shot.

More on the new 1304 bios: Locked in my memory at 2280mhz @ 9-10-10-24-33-1T timings, extremely happy about that.


----------



## Dhalgren65

Hey willup-
What is the Brand/model number of the VRM w/c heatsink you are using?
I have searched(ADD and all) for one but have not seen one-Intel only to this point
Lil help?
My VRM's(Per AiSuite II) were hitting 49-50c,so I took a memory cooler to em-
cooled off 10C but is fugly.

Sent PM direct to willup.


----------



## Disturbed117

Remember guys/gals, When submitting yourselves you need to format it like this.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



=hyperlink(" Your Submission URL";"Link")


----------



## UKTomcatFAN

Hi guys

I have had the Sabertooth for around a year now and I am very pleased with it.

Now I am looking at increasing the speed of my machine (not looking for a massive OC).

My machine specs:

AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition
2 x Corsair 4GB (2x2GB) DDR3 1600MHz/PC3-12800
ASUS Sabertooth 990FX Socket AM3+
Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro rev 2
Coolermaster Scout Sniper
1x corsair 120gb force 3 ssd

Could someone give me an idiots guide (first time OC'ing) as to how I can get a little more performance?


----------



## willup

I sent a message to Asus support and this is what I got back about the VRM

_Dear Valued Customer,

Thank you for contacting ASUS Customer Service.

My name is Carter and it's my pleasure to help you with your problem.

Please have a check if ovelock less than 5% will work normally.
About overclocking, it mentions many intricate factors, not only the motherboard but also the CPU and the memory etc. It need you to trial and error by yourself. If you need overclocking, it may need yourself to try to adjust the correlative setting options of overclocking, also maybe you can refer to some correlative forums.
Sorry for any inconvenience.

If you continue to experience issues in the future, please do not hesitate
to contact us.

Best Regard
Carter_

Basically hes saying if I overclock more than 5% the VRMs may still overheat. I already got my replacement from Amazon, and when I get home today its time to drain the loop, install all the new blocks on the new motherboard, reconfigured my loop, and re-test. Hopefully the new motherboard doesn't give me a problem. If it does I honestly give up and will stay overclocked to 4.6ghz the max I can go without my VRMs going to critical temps. Sick and tired of rebuilding my rig!!! Crossing my fingers that I have no issues!! lol Its kinda sad that my VRMs were limiting me to overclocking more when my cpu max temps are a mere 44 degrees celicus!! Hope this all works! Wish me luck guys....


----------



## shampoo911

hope everything turns ok willup... keep us updated...


----------



## Tweeky

ZALMAN CNPS9900MAX-B 135mm Long life bearing CPU Cooler Blue LED

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118074

the ZALMAN CNPS9900MAX-B 135mm is a very good CPU cooler and best of all it will clear all 4 memory slots on a AMD motherboard


----------



## Dhalgren65

willup-follow up?
I saw the product page-
What is the process for install?
Is there a thermal pad between "slab" and VRM's then a thermal pad between "slab" and waterblock?
Do you use thermal paste?
I noticed browsing that there are several thicknesses of thermal pad-maybe too thick for transfer?
Good luck!


----------



## ceaze one

Does anyone know if Asus would send me a new bios chip? I was updating my bios using the included software and my computer crashed., so now my motherboard doesn't post. My system wasn't over clocked, just unlock: AMD Athlon x3 450 unlocked to a Propus X4... which was tested stable with IBT and Prime95 for 24 hours.

Rather than being on the phone with Asus for hours and maybe having to send in my motherboard, would it be a good idea just to buy a new bios chip from Ebay for something? Its gonna cost 10-15 dollars to ship out the motherboard and who knows how long I'd have to wait for it, when I can just buy a new bios chip for $15-$20. If anyone has experience with this please let me know.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## truckerguy

if you have a jump drive you can down load the bios you want onto it and flash it from the jump drive


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceaze one*
> 
> Does anyone know if Asus would send me a new bios chip? I was updating my bios using the included software and my computer crashed., so now my motherboard doesn't post. My system wasn't over clocked, just unlock: AMD Athlon x3 450 unlocked to a Propus X4... which was tested stable with IBT and Prime95 for 24 hours.
> Rather than being on the phone with Asus for hours and maybe having to send in my motherboard, would it be a good idea just to buy a new bios chip from Ebay for something? Its gonna cost 10-15 dollars to ship out the motherboard and who knows how long I'd have to wait for it, when I can just buy a new bios chip for $15-$20. If anyone has experience with this please let me know.
> Thanks in advance!


I had a bios chip go corrupt on my CHIV and after talking with our friends at Asus learned they would RMA the mobo, but also told me if I like I can just buy the chip from the e-store (shipping is crazy and so is lack of payment method) but cost close to the same as RMA and in my case I wouldn't have to swap out the mobo. I've heard of others with newer boards do a little song and dance and got Asus to send them the chip for free. Mine is a year and a half old and under water so the "Me" buying the chip thing made most sense.


----------



## sunset1

Id see if you can use the jump drive.
then if still issues ask asus for a new chip.
But me id get a backup if thats the only solution however I would keep the old one in case you ever needed to rma the board.
sunset1


----------



## Tweeky

there is the option to reload the bios from the original DVD that comes with the motherboard

http://support.asus.com/Troubleshooting/detail.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&m=SABERTOOTH%20990FX&s=24&hashedid=H9GanpgqHG8yN8yQ&os=&no=1722


----------



## willup

OK heres the scoop. Installed the new motherboard and everything is working good. Temps are great but I realize I have my loop wrong. GPU > NB >VRM > CPU all connected together before going to my 360 rad.

Got one idea to fix it:

Option 1

PUMP > GPU > 240 RAD > NB > VRM > CPU > 360 RAD > RES > Then back to pump.

I realize heat from the GPU is causing all other components to get too hot. CPU is now hitting 56 degrees and VRM is hitting 60 degrees. A good improvement over 80 however the CPU is getting hotter than it ever was. This is letting me know that the heat is being transfered from the VRM to the CPU. Once I reconfigure my loop when I get home I'll be able to see what temps are like which is good. This is like a 30-45 min fix and it should give me temps where I want them to be.

Last option would be to actually break up VRM from the CPU as those too seem to be producing the most heat.

Option 2

PUMP > GPU > 240 RAD > NB > VRM > 360 RAD > CPU > RES > PUMP

This would completely break up all conponents on my loop.

What do you guys think should I try Option 1 or Option 2?

I am leaning towards Option 1 because it would take less configuring haha

Im just happy things are working the way they are supposed to my loop is just setup wrong.


----------



## Tweeky

PUMP > GPU > 240 RAD > NB > VRM > CPU > 360 RAD > RES > Then back to pump.

Try: PUMP > 360 RAD > CPU > NB > VRM > 240 RAD > GPU > RES > back to PUMP


----------



## willup

Thanks I will try this further reading on loop order going from pump to radiator first is the best course of action. Only change I'm going to make is from the cpu its going to the vrm. Only reason is because the nb is way too close to the CPU and would be difficult to connect

Thanks for the information

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Joel18

Just got my HyperX Genesis 8gb KIT but still waiting for the HyperX Fan... contemplating about getting ether an AMD phenom ii x4 945 or AMD FX 4100 quad core black edition????? Any thoughts????


----------



## Tweeky

If you need a cpu now this is the one i would get

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103727

but the new stuff is coming in a month or two and the price of the older stuff will be lower


----------



## truckerguy

a Phenom II 960T is a soild cpu as well


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> a Phenom II 960T is a soild cpu as well


This^

You can even more bang for the buck if you can unlock it to a 1600t.


----------



## truckerguy

And if your not so lucky and its only a 4 core its a overclocking beast.


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> there is the option to reload the bios from the original DVD that comes with the motherboard
> 
> http://support.asus.com/Troubleshooting/detail.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&m=SABERTOOTH%20990FX&s=24&hashedid=H9GanpgqHG8yN8yQ&os=&no=1722


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> Id see if you can use the jump drive.
> then if still issues ask asus for a new chip.
> But me id get a backup if thats the only solution however I would keep the old one in case you ever needed to rma the board.
> sunset1


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> I had a bios chip go corrupt on my CHIV and after talking with our friends at Asus learned they would RMA the mobo, but also told me if I like I can just buy the chip from the e-store (shipping is crazy and so is lack of payment method) but cost close to the same as RMA and in my case I wouldn't have to swap out the mobo. I've heard of others with newer boards do a little song and dance and got Asus to send them the chip for free. Mine is a year and a half old and under water so the "Me" buying the chip thing made most sense.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> if you have a jump drive you can down load the bios you want onto it and flash it from the jump drive


Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it a lot!..... +reps all around







I just got an email back from Asus and they want me to RMA the board so it looks like I'll be sending it in. I tried to get them to just send me a new bios chip but that didn't work out lol. I would've bought a new bios chip from the e-store but I already swapped an old motherboard into my system for the time being so its not like I need this problem fixed asap. Asus said turn around time should be about 10 days so Its not too bad. I hope I get my original board back and not a refurbished one since I bought it 6 or 7 months ago and its still in great shape.


----------



## Joel18

thank you very much for your information, much appreciated


----------



## ChrisAfric

Hello guys! I am planning to buy two GTX 670 EVGA and make it SLI on this asus 990fx motherboard. Will there be any problems with it if I go sli on this board? thanks!


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisAfric*
> 
> Hello guys! I am planning to buy two GTX 670 EVGA and make it SLI on this asus 990fx motherboard. Will there be any problems with it if I go sli on this board? thanks!


I'm using SLI and it works perfectly.


----------



## truckerguy

all 990 boards will do SLI or Crossfire no problem ,,,no more hack job,,,wooo hooo


----------



## 12Cores

Updated pictures of my build, the Sabertooth is still going strong looking forward to Piledriver.


----------



## lostmybandaide

Hey guys

Not sure if this is a O.C. problem but i'm a bit stuck for help. I have Rebuilting my system 2 months ago with

AMD FX8150
Asus sabertooth
2x 8GB kit. G.Skill Ripjaw Series X PC12800
Samsung 830D SSD
Samsung 1 TB Hard drive
2x XFX 6950 GPU
cooler master silent pro gold 1000W

When i built my system about 2 months ago, i started experiencing random blue screen (Stop 0x00000001E). I believe that pointed to my Rams. so i popped the ram test in with all 4 sticks of rams in and they failed the test in the 2nd pass, however they did pass the test individually when i run them for 10hrs each. but Thinking it was the rams anyways i started a 2 months long RMA process to swap out 1 kit at a time. during that time,i would run the system at 8GB of rams i have and the system was stable with no Blue screen. I finally complete the RMA this week and have both the 8GB kit install on the board but i started getting Blue screen again. (stop 0x000001e) i tried to run windows from both my hard drive but i'm gettin ghte same results. the system would run fro 5-10 mins and blue screen. the GPU drivers are up to date. and the system was running stable on 8GB. (it also stop crashing when i remove 1 set of rams) Does this point to a Faulty Motherboard?


----------



## truckerguy

yes you do have a OC problem you don't have enfo voltage to the ram and more then likly the CPU/NB side of the cpu to run all 4 sticks at the overclock you have


----------



## lostmybandaide

but its not being O.C. I even turn off the "Asus Optimal mode" and switch it to "Normal" but i'll mess with it a little. thanks!


----------



## truckerguy

bump the Dram voltage by .5


----------



## pony-tail

I have the original of this board on my game machine - and am quite happy with it .
So now I am looking for a replacement board , I was going to get another Sabertooth - but now my retailer has informed me that a Revision 2.0 of this board will be available soon .
The board I will be replacing is a Gigabyte 790X-USB3 , the CPU is a 1090t , Ram is 8gig Kingston 1333 . Video card is HD5770 . This is the board I normally use for general web surfing , multimedia , Office Photo Shop and most basic stuff . ( Runs dual boot - Win 7(64) and mint Linux )
Would there be any advantage in waiting for the new revision ?
The front usb ports have failed on my current board and as it lives under the desk , the rear ports are VERY hard to get to - a replacement is required .


----------



## jdotbuch

Anyone know why my GPU performs better in the first slot vs the second? Shouldn't it be the same? (16x?)
In the second slot I get a 7.3 windows rating on gtx 560, in the first slot 7.7. I also hope the change helps with the many varying bsd's I've been getting, should definately help with the odd screen freezes I've also been getting.

Maybe I can get full use out of lane 3 and not just lane 1? Definately not from just lane 2 ?


----------



## Tweeky

slots 1 and/or 3 run at 16x

slots 1 3 4 are 16x 8x 8x

slot 2 is 1x

slot 4 is 4x by it self

see page 2-15


----------



## sunset1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pony-tail*
> 
> I have the original of this board on my game machine - and am quite happy with it .
> So now I am looking for a replacement board , I was going to get another Sabertooth - but now my retailer has informed me that a Revision 2.0 of this board will be available soon .
> The board I will be replacing is a Gigabyte 790X-USB3 , the CPU is a 1090t , Ram is 8gig Kingston 1333 . Video card is HD5770 . This is the board I normally use for general web surfing , multimedia , Office Photo Shop and most basic stuff . ( Runs dual boot - Win 7(64) and mint Linux )
> Would there be any advantage in waiting for the new revision ?
> The front usb ports have failed on my current board and as it lives under the desk , the rear ports are VERY hard to get to - a replacement is required .


while i think this board is a great board i wonder if you dont want to just get a usb male to female extender or a usb card with internal connectors on it. is it the connectors on the case or the ports on the motherboard. Either way a male to female usb extention might save you a few dollars.
Sunset1


----------



## Cartel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lostmybandaide*
> 
> Hey guys
> Not sure if this is a O.C. problem but i'm a bit stuck for help. I have Rebuilting my system 2 months ago with
> AMD FX8150
> Asus sabertooth
> 2x 8GB kit. G.Skill Ripjaw Series X PC12800
> Samsung 830D SSD
> Samsung 1 TB Hard drive
> 2x XFX 6950 GPU
> cooler master silent pro gold 1000W
> When i built my system about 2 months ago, i started experiencing random blue screen (Stop 0x00000001E). I believe that pointed to my Rams. so i popped the ram test in with all 4 sticks of rams in and they failed the test in the 2nd pass, however they did pass the test individually when i run them for 10hrs each. but Thinking it was the rams anyways i started a 2 months long RMA process to swap out 1 kit at a time. during that time,i would run the system at 8GB of rams i have and the system was stable with no Blue screen. I finally complete the RMA this week and have both the 8GB kit install on the board but i started getting Blue screen again. (stop 0x000001e) i tried to run windows from both my hard drive but i'm gettin ghte same results. the system would run fro 5-10 mins and blue screen. the GPU drivers are up to date. and the system was running stable on 8GB. (it also stop crashing when i remove 1 set of rams) Does this point to a Faulty Motherboard?


Make sure your on 2T and disable the ECC


----------



## jdotbuch

Responding to ]

"slots 1 and/or 3 run at 16x

slots 1 3 4 are 16x 8x 8x

slot 2 is 1x

slot 4 is 4x by it self

see page 2-15"

Thanks Tweaky, that explains it. Had missed these pages and was only referencing the SLI setup from the manual.


----------



## Cyco-Dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joel18*
> 
> Just got my HyperX Genesis 8gb KIT but still waiting for the HyperX Fan... contemplating about getting ether an AMD phenom ii x4 945 or AMD FX 4100 quad core black edition????? Any thoughts????


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> If you need a cpu now this is the one i would get
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103727
> but the new stuff is coming in a month or two and the price of the older stuff will be lower


right now, i would get the fx-4100 as it's only $95 after promo code. the phenom II 965 black edition had a similar promo during this past weekend (was $90) and i ended up getting it. then newegg dropped the price of the 4100 by $10 (to $110, same as the 965 black) and tossed in the promo a couple of days later! oh well lol.


----------



## sunset1

Ditto same as previous poster.


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> while i think this board is a great board i wonder if you dont want to just get a usb male to female extender or a usb card with internal connectors on it. is it the connectors on the case or the ports on the motherboard. Either way a male to female usb extention might save you a few dollars.
> Sunset1


Definitely the board - It has a burned trace .
After already having a Sabertooth , I have found it has many advantages over the older Gigabyte 790X board not the least of which is the uefi bios so I thought if I do update the board it should last me a couple more years - The 1090T is a decent CPU , the HD5770 is a decent video card (just) over all it is overkill for what it does .
I was asking about the Sabertooth Rev 2.0 because it is only $15(au) more expensive but has "Thunderbolt" support - the purpose of which I am unsure - but apparently it is another connector on the board , not a sound card .
I will be getting one or the other - just not sure which . I am at present leaning towards waiting for the revision 2.0 board unless I find out it has some issue of some sort .


----------



## Darth Llama

thunderbolt is a 10Gb network/audio card used for a bit by apple leased from intel. It can chain up to 7 devices, from nas to the new t-bolt ssd's to printers/routers/external storage/and display port monitors. ( the display port and audio have a separate 10Gb channel) so if you have the scratch, its 2x the speed of usb 3 though the R2.0 has 170% of the usb 3 rated bandwidth via a new feature also.


----------



## cez4r

More on *Sabertooth 990FX R2.0*:

http://rog.asus.com/141502012/crosshair-v-motherboards/memory-performance-gains-on-the-crosshair-v-formula-z-sabertooth-990fx-r2-0/

http://rog.asus.com/152802012/sabertooth-motherboards/sabertooth-990fx-r2-0-unboxing-spec-overview/


----------



## Krusher33

I have been wanting a Sabertooth board forever and finally gave in and bought one. But I took a gamble on it... I bought a refurb.







Wish me luck.


----------



## Tweeky

The New *SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0*

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R20/#overview

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131877


----------



## Krusher33

What's different about them again?

(I can't view the ROG site)


----------



## cez4r

From the ROG forums - *What Asus guy tells about the Sabertooth 990FX mobos:*

"If you ever want to run fast 4 DIMM or use Win8 features, then get the 2.0. 2.0s will also get the focus of BIOS work for future CPUs. *1.0s will be sold out very soon.*"


----------



## Krusher33

Good thing I just bought mine! I saw the quantity dwindling on the one I bought that was a refurb on sale for $120.


----------



## Cartel

There are some newer drivers on the 2.0 page, I'm staying away from windows 8 and remote go and this board though.

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R20/#download


----------



## Dnoces

Here's My build, no motherboard cooling as of yet -still trying to track down the best choices for blocks.
Let me know what you guys think,
Cheers.


----------



## truckerguy

Contact willup he found a water block for the Sabertooth


----------



## Ghost12

Can I check some temps with you guys. I have recently crossfired two hd7870`s and the temps inside my rig according to thermal radar have risen accordingly. After a few hours playing bf3 I saw my vcore1 around 51c. What are the acceptable ranges for the board? My pcie1 was in the 40`s range and cpu socket also. Is this still ok? thanks in advance. The max mainboard temp was 40c


----------



## Citra

Mine sits 48 after cooling down a bit from gaming so I'll assume you'll be fine.


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Mine sits 48 after cooling down a bit from gaming so I'll assume you'll be fine.


Thanks, at idle like now an hour after gaming I don't have a temp on thermal radar over 33c. Was just wondering about the 51c v core mainly whilst gaming.


----------



## CTrak

Yeah Baby.........

Got Operation Sabertooth up and race'n.....










Had alot of trouble with the Ai Suite install, but after @ 2hrs of reading and search'n ....found a solution and Scream it does!


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTrak*
> 
> Yeah Baby.........
> Got Operation Sabertooth up and race'n.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had alot of trouble with the Ai Suite install, but after @ 2hrs of reading and search'n ....found a solution and Scream it does!


That looks great. Nice colour coding. And the sticker on boxed in psu looks awesome. well done


----------



## Cyco-Dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTrak*
> 
> Had alot of trouble with the Ai Suite install, but after @ 2hrs of reading and search'n ....found a solution and Scream it does!


what problems where you having? do share, just in case others have similar issues.

also, neat case mods...gives me an idea.


----------



## Joel18

Just ordered my AMD Phenom ii x4 945 CPU I will be OC to hopfully 3.9ghz that my target speed


----------



## Cyco-Dude

my sabertooth isn't running yet (waiting on ram), so maybe one of you could answer this question for me. do the fan controls work with regular 3-pin fans (like, can you control the voltage supplied), or do you need pwm fans?


----------



## CTrak

@ Ghost.............Thanx!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyco-Dude*
> 
> what problems where you having? do share, just in case others have similar issues.
> also, neat case mods...gives me an idea.


Ai Suite (for interactive bios) .............Both ddl from web page and from install disk.....would not install.

Looked all over for a solution...........found a solution on ASUS VIP Forum......after reading for @ 1hr..........then found this response:

http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?SLanguage=en-us&id=20110609220633398&board_id=1&model=P8Z68-V%20PRO&page=7&count=64

Basically......
Quote:


> Hi, this is the solution for installation problem
> 
> 1- Download the latest version of Asus Ai suite II pack.......... 2- Unzip the pack........... 3- open the "USB 3.0 Boost" folder and then "DrvResource" folder........... 4- go to the "AXSP" folder........... 5- right click on "axIns.exe" file and click "run as administrator".......... 6- choose OK or accept all the process. 7- reboot your system.......... 8- Now, install your Asus Ai suite II by runing the "setup.exe" file in your Asus Ai suite II root folder".......... 9- If during the installation process, windows asks you to accept the runing process one by one, you accept all of them........... 10- if during the installation process windows asks you to reboot your system, do not accept it until the installation process becoms complete........... 11- Now restart your computer........... 12- Asus Ai suite II is ready to be used.


This installed all 'cept Thermal Armour..........That I install from web ddl............using the....
Quote:


> 4- go to the "AXSP" folder........... 5- right click on "axIns.exe" file and click "run as administrator"


..........then... runing the "setup.exe" file from Thermal Armour file...............

The" ASUS set-up.exe" doesn't appear to work from any file..........

It seems to me ASUS needs to improve their instructions and/or driver ddls..........


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyco-Dude*
> 
> my sabertooth isn't running yet (waiting on ram), so maybe one of you could answer this question for me. do the fan controls work with regular 3-pin fans (like, can you control the voltage supplied), or do you need pwm fans?


yes no


----------



## Cyco-Dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTrak*
> 
> @ Ghost.............Thanx!
> Ai Suite (for interactive bios) .............Both ddl from web page and from install disk.....would not install.
> Looked all over for a solution...........found a solution on ASUS VIP Forum......after reading for @ 1hr..........then found this response:
> http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?SLanguage=en-us&id=20110609220633398&board_id=1&model=P8Z68-V%20PRO&page=7&count=64
> Basically......
> This installed all 'cept Thermal Armour..........That I install from web ddl............using the..............then... runing the "setup.exe" file from Thermal Armour file...............
> The" ASUS set-up.exe" doesn't appear to work from any file..........
> It seems to me ASUS needs to improve their instructions and/or driver ddls..........


wow, do a lot of people have issues like that?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> yes no


cool, thanks.


----------



## sunset1

first i wanted to thank tweeky for really helping out in here.. You are alwawys willing to help.
The fans can be controlled using the motherboard.
I didnt have these issues wiith my board installing ai suite, But as i remember I didnt try to install all at first , And quite frankly i dont remember the method i used to make it fairly simple. I did initially a problem but I think i went to the website at asus to redownload the suite but i dont remember exactly how i got around it not wanting to install. Im running windows 7 and my software was run off one ssd drive. The 2nd drive was not added till later.

If you are worried about problems with this board, so far from all of the posts i have read, ( i think all of them more than once, ) most issues were bios related to new hardware ( fx cpus ) and windows 7. I have not had any real issues with this board, it easily overclocks, is very stable and very easy to configure automaticly. Previous posters have given great insite to getting great overclocks and the members on this thread are always ready to help a hand. Something i have never had with my other boards.

My board automaticly overclocked my memory to 2000 and my 8120 chip to 3.9xx. I dont regularly overclock my chips but this was just too easy.
I did get premium components, good memory, and a good clc cooler for my cpu. My system is hard to hear when its running so i have to look at the case to see if the lights are on. :>

If there is one thing i would reccomend is a fan on the vrms depending on the case , I have a coolermaster with low rpm 200mm case fans that is extremely quiet, but in high overclocking I like to see my temps as low as possible so i plan on doing this soon. Having multiple temp sensors gives you a lot of info that i didnt have on my other boards.

Also i am using fan controller software that came with my closed loop cooler to automanticly controll those fans on my external rad for my cpu.
good luck.
sunset1


----------



## laurie

I've just installed one of these. Seems very good except for one thing.
When I shut the system down the last thing it does before turning off completely is make a horrible noise through the speakers.
It's loud and all sorts of frequencies all at once.
Any ideas?


----------



## sunset1

optical or analog connection.. just curious. I dont have any prob with optical.


----------



## laurie

Analog. I just have a stereo setup.
A small amp that feeds some large speakers.


----------



## truckerguy

I get them samething and the higher I OC the board the loader it gets


----------



## sunset1

Lets let the electronic guys chime on on this one.. I have ideas but id rather hear what they have to say so i dont throw you off track. :>
sunset1


----------



## laurie

How odd? I wonder what's causing it. I will check to see if there is a newer BIOS revision.
It can be such a noise that I worry about my cones.


----------



## sunset1

hah truckerguy beat me again..


----------



## truckerguy

even with diffrent verrions Ive had the samething Ive just learn to turn down or off the speeker before I shut down


----------



## moparbob7

Hey guys, I think my motherboard just died. When I turn it on, after post it keeps beeping when the motherboard logo comes up. Its like when use press a key and hold it down, sounds like that. It is not that I tried a different keyboard. It would load up windows but then I turned it off and now it wont even post.

The red CPU light it on and stay on. I tried a good CPU and nothing. I tried the original CPU that I had in that in another computer and it works.

I also tried a different video card, memory, PSU. I also tried taking out the battery and clearing CMOS. I tried a different battery. I think the motherboard is bad.

How do I go about doing the warranty on this. I looked on the website but its hard to find out how to do the warranty. Should I just give them a call?

Thanks,
Bob


----------



## truckerguy

here is the link to start a RMA

http://www.service.asus.com/#!RMA Request/cope


----------



## Tweeky

another site http://support.asus.com/repair.aspx?no=581&SLanguage=en


----------



## Tweeky

the asus estore is now open

http://us.estore.asus.com/


----------



## PoseidonsPalace

Hi Guys, total newbie when it comes this board and overclocking but can anybody please help.

i am running a Sabretooth Rev1. with bios 1304
8Gb corsair (red) 1866mhz
AMD fx8120 using stock cooler.

bios has my memory running at 2000MHz (set in AI Tweaker)
CPU 47c
MB 35c

I really have no idea what is going on i couldn't get the board to do anything the other day (i.e. install windows 7) except go into bios until i upgraded the bios frimware from the 1102 that was on by default.

no matter what i do the board only stays on for a short while and crashes constantly when i am trying to do anything, i am having to type this now on the other halfs laptop as i cant keep the pc on long enough to do even this as it either locks up or turns off.

are there any fail safe settings i can use to get the memory timings right then hopefully go on from there.

infact the guy in the local computer place set up the timings as i was ready to send the MB, Mem, and chip back to the place i had bought it from becuase as i said i couldn't get it to do anything.

any help would be much appreciated

jez


----------



## hotrod717

Not sure if anyone posted this before me, but their is a rev. 2 for the sabertooth and includes updated utilities which work for original. ThermalRadar display is much better. AISuite II.


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PoseidonsPalace*
> 
> Hi Guys, total newbie when it comes this board and overclocking but can anybody please help.
> i am running a Sabretooth Rev1. with bios 1304
> 8Gb corsair (red) 1866mhz
> AMD fx8120 using stock cooler.
> bios has my memory running at 2000MHz (set in AI Tweaker)
> CPU 47c
> MB 35c
> I really have no idea what is going on i couldn't get the board to do anything the other day (i.e. install windows 7) except go into bios until i upgraded the bios frimware from the 1102 that was on by default.
> no matter what i do the board only stays on for a short while and crashes constantly when i am trying to do anything, i am having to type this now on the other halfs laptop as i cant keep the pc on long enough to do even this as it either locks up or turns off.
> are there any fail safe settings i can use to get the memory timings right then hopefully go on from there.
> infact the guy in the local computer place set up the timings as i was ready to send the MB, Mem, and chip back to the place i had bought it from becuase as i said i couldn't get it to do anything.
> any help would be much appreciated
> jez


look in the manual for instructions on the go button it will set your memory to defaults


----------



## PoseidonsPalace

hi tweeky,

i did that the other day but then the memory modules were picked up as being 1333Mhz
there doesnt appear to be anywhere in the bios to enable the 1866 memory, or am i missing a trick?

Jez


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PoseidonsPalace*
> 
> hi tweeky,
> i did that the other day but then the memory modules were picked up as being 1333Mhz
> there doesnt appear to be anywhere in the bios to enable the 1866 memory, or am i missing a trick?
> Jez


look in the manual page 3-8 for D.O.C.P. this will help you set your ram

try profile #0 or #1


----------



## PoseidonsPalace

Ai Tweaker - Profile #0 - bios now picks up as DDR1866 but will not log into windows gets to splash screen then just hangs.
there doesn't appear to be a profile #1


----------



## Tweeky

go into the bios and reset to defaults with the f5 key

use DOCP profile #0 and it will give you the option to increase the voltage select it


----------



## PoseidonsPalace

I am sure it must be a memory problem from the way the system just hangs,

current settings are as follows:

AI overclock tuner - D.O.C.P
Dram oc profile - #0
oc tuner - cancel
cpu ratio - 15.5
AMD turbo core - Auto
CPU Bus/ PEG Freq - 200
PCIE Freq - auto
memory - DDR3 - 1866MHz
CPU/NB Freq - Auto
HT Link Speed - Auto
CPU Spread spectrum - Auto
PCIe Spread spectrum - Auto
EPU Power save mode Disabled

CPU and NB voltage - manual mode
cpu manual voltage - 1.356V - Auto
CPU/NB manual voltage - 1.212V - Auto
CPU VDDA Voltage - 2.490V - Auto
Dram Voltage -1.516 - 1.50000
NB Voltage - 1.100V - Auto
NB HT Voltage -1.200V - Auto
NB 1.8V Voltage - 1.800V - Auto
SB Voltage - 1.100V - Auto
VDD PCIE 1.100V Auto
VDDR -1.200V - Auto

with the above settings this still causes windows to hang

i just hope this make nore sense to you than me


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PoseidonsPalace*
> 
> I am sure it must be a memory problem from the way the system just hangs,
> current settings are as follows:
> AI overclock tuner - D.O.C.P
> Dram oc profile - #0
> oc tuner - cancel
> cpu ratio - 15.5
> AMD turbo core - Auto
> CPU Bus/ PEG Freq - 200
> PCIE Freq - auto
> memory - DDR3 - 1866MHz
> CPU/NB Freq - Auto
> HT Link Speed - Auto
> CPU Spread spectrum - Auto
> PCIe Spread spectrum - Auto
> EPU Power save mode Disabled
> CPU and NB voltage - manual mode
> cpu manual voltage - 1.356V - Auto
> CPU/NB manual voltage - 1.212V - Auto
> CPU VDDA Voltage - 2.490V - Auto
> Dram Voltage -1.516 - 1.50000
> NB Voltage - 1.100V - Auto
> NB HT Voltage -1.200V - Auto
> NB 1.8V Voltage - 1.800V - Auto
> SB Voltage - 1.100V - Auto
> VDD PCIE 1.100V Auto
> VDDR -1.200V - Auto
> with the above settings this still causes windows to hang
> i just hope this make nore sense to you than me


Fill in your rig sig so we can see the hardware your working with. Just looking at this I would want to know Make and type of ram, CPU make and model . Basically download cpuid and maxmem preview, take a couple screen shots of both completed, and upload. Most recommend to turn off turbo, Cool n' quiet and spead spectrum for overclocking. Hard to say whithout seeing hardware.


----------



## PoseidonsPalace

8Gb corsair (red) 1866mhz
AMD fx8120 using stock cooler.



Power supply Atrix 500T (MUst be at least 5 years old but has never failed me yet

HDD 1 (system) - Maxtor 6 L200M0 SATA
HDD 2 (Storage) - Samsung HD103UJ

CDD 1 - Tsst Corp CDDVDW SH-S223C

Graphics - Geforce 9500GT (1GB)

all in all i don't think (know) there was anything too special so would have expected it to setup without a problem.

that said i last night i decided to disconnect a 3rd HDD i have which is a 160GB Sata with a Molex connector and up to press the computer has been runnning ok for the last 1/2 hr, well at least long enough for me to type this phew!!!!

i am going to post it now just in case all goes belly up









couple of extra pics




aboout 5 mins later i got the first hang up of the day Grrrrrr!!!!!

just got home for lunch and thought i would upload this info as well if it is of any use...


----------



## cez4r

*Asus can have problems w/ Sabertooth R1/R2 (and other mobos w/ ASMedia USB 3.0 Controllers) supplies:*

http://www.techpowerup.com/171597/ASMedia-Offices-Raided-over-USB-3.0-Controller-Design-Infringement-Allegations.html

_"It remains to be seen how the investigation affects supplies of ASMedia's USB 3.0 controllers. A PC motherboard maker we spoke with expressed concern over the developments."_


----------



## laurie

I just returned my V1 after one day. Great board but could have done with a heads up from Amazon. They dropped the price the day after I ordered it! So I'm going to go for the revision 2 instead. I'm sure it's not much different but still... I'm fussy.

Just looking at some of the physical differences.
The heatsinks are now brown rather than green. I'm a fan of that.
The Rom in the bottom left of the R1 has gone. Not sure where.
There is an extra microswitch in the bottom right of the R2.
It also seems to have an extra pin out on the bottom.
A few solid state caps have moved.
Fan pin headers are now brown rather than white.

Obviously there are the main differences like the new BIOS flash button on the IO panel. And a change to some other components. I'm sure someone that has bothered to read about the differences rather than just look at the pictures can be a lot more informative than me.

Bottom line. Brown = more good.


----------



## PoseidonsPalace

Thanks guys for all the info but now i am totally confused, today when i got home from work my PC had locked up yet again so i rebooted on re booting i was made aware that i needed to do a windows update as the system is still new and therefore required updates.

consequently i did download the files that it said i needed then ran through the rig-moral of installing them only to be told i needed to reboot, i thought ok then why not, assuming nothing would change so i did.

Since that point forward my PC has not cut out, turned off, frozen etc (touch wood) as i said totally confused but at the same time now over the moon because i can finally use my PC for the tasks for which it was intended.. YAHOOOO!!!!


----------



## Tweeky

after big changes windows need some reboots to reorganize


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PoseidonsPalace*
> 
> 8Gb corsair (red) 1866mhz
> AMD fx8120 using stock cooler.
> 
> Power supply Atrix 500T (MUst be at least 5 years old but has never failed me yet
> HDD 1 (system) - Maxtor 6 L200M0 SATA
> HDD 2 (Storage) - Samsung HD103UJ
> CDD 1 - Tsst Corp CDDVDW SH-S223C
> Graphics - Geforce 9500GT (1GB)
> all in all i don't think (know) there was anything too special so would have expected it to setup without a problem.
> that said i last night i decided to disconnect a 3rd HDD i have which is a 160GB Sata with a Molex connector and up to press the computer has been runnning ok for the last 1/2 hr, well at least long enough for me to type this phew!!!!
> 
> i am going to post it now just in case all goes belly up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> couple of extra pics
> 
> 
> 
> aboout 5 mins later i got the first hang up of the day Grrrrrr!!!!!
> just got home for lunch and thought i would upload this info as well if it is of any use...


Wow your cpu seems starved for power! 1.128v! I couldnt run 6 cores stock at that voltage. Not informed about BD,and I may be wrong, but I would think you need at least 1.35v-1.38v based on my experience w/ thuban. Try bumping your cpu volts. Also try turning off turbo, cool n' quiet, and spread spectrum. Can somebody with BD please chime in.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Wow your cpu seems starved for power! 1.128v! I couldnt run 6 cores stock at that voltage. Not informed about BD,and I may be wrong, but I would think you need at least 1.35v-1.38v based on my experience w/ thuban. Try bumping your cpu volts. Also try turning off turbo, cool n' quiet, and spread spectrum. Can somebody with BD please chime in.


why turn off spread spectrum??

dont you mean LOAD LINE CALIBRATION??

either way i have both ON... and look at my cpu z

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2500447


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> why turn off spread spectrum??
> dont you mean LOAD LINE CALIBRATION??
> either way i have both ON... and look at my cpu z
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2500447


No, I do mean Spread spectrum. LLC helps with voltage droop and usually supplies a more consistent voltage to cpu. Like i said familiar with thuban and hope somebody with BD can help better. All oc guides for thuban and deneb suggest turning off all i'd mentioned previously.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> No, I do mean Spread spectrum. LLC helps with voltage droop and usually supplies a more consistent voltage to cpu. Like i said familiar with thuban and hope somebody with BD can help better. All oc guides for thuban and deneb suggest turning off all i'd mentioned previously.


well yeah... turning all the other options like cool and quiet are quite a good choice...

i have spread spectrum on, because it has to do something with the VRM's i guess... i have a BD and up until now, no BSOD nor freezing... MB temps are around 31ºC and 35ºC on load...


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> well yeah... turning all the other options like cool and quiet are quite a good choice...
> i have spread spectrum on, because it has to do something with the VRM's i guess... i have a BD and up until now, no BSOD nor freezing... MB temps are around 31ºC and 35ºC on load...


I've tried messing with all the phase options and LLC options Sabertooth bios has with some of my oc's, but haven't figured them out. I leave them at default and have the best success.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> No, I do mean Spread spectrum. LLC helps with voltage droop and usually supplies a more consistent voltage to cpu. Like i said familiar with thuban and hope somebody with BD can help better. All oc guides for thuban and deneb suggest turning off all i'd mentioned previously.
> 
> 
> 
> well yeah... turning all the other options like cool and quiet are quite a good choice...
> 
> i have spread spectrum on, because it has to do something with the VRM's i guess... i have a BD and up until now, no BSOD nor freezing... MB temps are around 31ºC and 35ºC on load...
Click to expand...

No, spread spectrum controls EMI. Having it enabled compromises your system's performance and stability. Disable it if you're housing your system inside a case or if it's outside and you don't have a bunch of electronics all around it that may give it interference.


----------



## sunset1

PoseidonsPalace: here is a old link of a review on your power supply. I would highly suggest replacing it.
Please don't kill the messenger. :>
And good luck.

http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/atrix_500t/


----------



## laurie

Just trying out the R2. It seems to have lost the ability to unlock cores. Or am I missing something?


----------



## PoseidonsPalace

Hi Sunset1, thanks for that as it happens i had read that before and as i said previously i have had the power supply for nearly 5 years and never has it missed a beat. i was intending at some point to upgrade it anyway but for now as ia m not running much more than on my previous setup i didn't see it as a big problem.

i am a bit concerned by the following images though taken from bios







which of the values is correct the one in the bios or the one supplied by cpu-id, or is the load in cpu-id the value in bios split over the cores as somtimes that value drops to 0.93 ish and but rises to 1.2+ when i open a program.

Am i right in thinking i would need to change thye CPU manual voltage upto the 1.35 - 1.38v as stated by Hotrod717.

at the minute as i said before everything seems stable with a bios cpu speed of 3918MHz


----------



## moparbob7

What do you guys think of Asus RMA process. This sucks!!!!!! I called yesterday morning at 8:30am for a advanced RMA for my motherboard. I guess they have to call around and see if they got it in-stock. I still have not heard back from them. I called them 2 or 3 times yesterday and nothing. I called them this morning and still nothing.

Why would they offer advanced RMA if they don't even keep a stock of the parts!!!!!

This Sucks!!!!!!


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moparbob7*
> 
> What do you guys think of Asus RMA process. This sucks!!!!!! I called yesterday morning at 8:30am for a advanced RMA for my motherboard. I guess they have to call around and see if they got it in-stock. I still have not heard back from them. I called them 2 or 3 times yesterday and nothing. I called them this morning and still nothing.
> Why would they offer advanced RMA if they don't even keep a stock of the parts!!!!!
> This Sucks!!!!!!


Yesterday at 8:30 am, it's now 9:37.
Normally a board can be located within minutes, but sometimes it can take up to 48hrs.
There is a protocol to follow, pm me your case # number and I'll try and light a fire.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PoseidonsPalace*
> 
> Hi Sunset1, thanks for that as it happens i had read that before and as i said previously i have had the power supply for nearly 5 years and never has it missed a beat. i was intending at some point to upgrade it anyway but for now as ia m not running much more than on my previous setup i didn't see it as a big problem.
> 
> i am a bit concerned by the following images though taken from bios
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> which of the values is correct the one in the bios or the one supplied by cpu-id, or is the load in cpu-id the value in bios split over the cores as somtimes that value drops to 0.93 ish and but rises to 1.2+ when i open a program.
> 
> Am i right in thinking i would need to change thye CPU manual voltage upto the 1.35 - 1.38v as stated by Hotrod717.
> 
> at the minute as i said before everything seems stable with a bios cpu speed of 3918MHz


Yeah, 1.2 seems pretty low to me but I've never played with BD much. You may need to ask in the Bulldozer club about what voltage to be using. Have you run Prime95 with it yet?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moparbob7*
> 
> What do you guys think of Asus RMA process. This sucks!!!!!! I called yesterday morning at 8:30am for a advanced RMA for my motherboard. I guess they have to call around and see if they got it in-stock. I still have not heard back from them. I called them 2 or 3 times yesterday and nothing. I called them this morning and still nothing.
> 
> Why would they offer advanced RMA if they don't even keep a stock of the parts!!!!!
> 
> This Sucks!!!!!!


It has been over a year now and with the new R2 out, it is near its EOL so...


----------



## moparbob7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Yeah, 1.2 seems pretty low to me but I've never played with BD much. You may need to ask in the Bulldozer club about what voltage to be using. Have you run Prime95 with it yet?
> It has been over a year now and with the new R2 out, it is near its EOL so...


Then they should give me the R2 then....lol


----------



## Krusher33

If it goes on long enough you might could convince them. Just do it calmly. They rather help someone who they know will continue to buy their products (maybe even promote it?) than someone who will just shout at them and rage quit.


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PoseidonsPalace*
> 
> Hi Sunset1, thanks for that as it happens i had read that before and as i said previously i have had the power supply for nearly 5 years and never has it missed a beat. i was intending at some point to upgrade it anyway but for now as ia m not running much more than on my previous setup i didn't see it as a big problem.
> i am a bit concerned by the following images though taken from bios
> 
> 
> 
> which of the values is correct the one in the bios or the one supplied by cpu-id, or is the load in cpu-id the value in bios split over the cores as somtimes that value drops to 0.93 ish and but rises to 1.2+ when i open a program.
> 
> Am i right in thinking i would need to change thye CPU manual voltage upto the 1.35 - 1.38v as stated by Hotrod717.
> at the minute as i said before everything seems stable with a bios cpu speed of 3918MHz


when in the bios the motherboard will increases items as the manufacture programed it to do

when you exit the bios then it will set those items to bios settings

change the voltage only if it is needed

check it with Prime 95 running


----------



## PoseidonsPalace

Hi Tweeky with the Prime 95 running the voltage goes upto 1.265V and temp increases dramatically at one stage it was at 61c and that was only a few minutes in, should i adjust it a small amount or just leave it foir the time being atleast until i get a better PSU and Watercooler?


----------



## Krusher33

Leave it if it not doing any error or crashes.


----------



## PoseidonsPalace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Leave it if it not doing any error or crashes.


Yes, i have to agree for the time being anyway at least whilst i get the new components









Last thing i want to do is fry everything especially when there is so much potential to be had if i just take it one step at a time.


----------



## Tweeky

sounds good


----------



## sunset1

PoseidonsPalace:
I had a new muskin 550w power supply that died. I rma'd it and the replacement worked. later i would get random reboots, and other errors. Over time I moved it to other computers because it was a known good unit. Recently I bought a couple of new antec truepower power supplies on sale at newegg.
Funny how my old systems all of a sudden were fixed. Btw these were socket 775 motherboards.
I always thought a power supply would work or not work. Not give random errors. So on this build i did some research on vrms and went to the power supply forum. This is an area where i am weak. Learn about vdrop and other issues. the Bulldozer requires close regulation when overclocking ( I hope im explaining this correctly so guys feel free to chime in)
All i can say is This time i bought a high dollar power supply (seasonic 750x gold. ) Im sure there are great power supplies that are cheaper.I have 0 problems. Oh and thats why I went to the sabertooth 990fx. These were recomondations from the guys here on OCN.

Im not saying spend money where you dont need to. However maybe you can borrow a nice power supply from soneone just to test with for a while.

I apologize if it seems im beating a dead horse but I thought i would share my experience. And i wont mention it again unless you ask.

Either way good luck. And I wish you the best.


----------



## Krusher33

If you're seeing some major fluctuations with the voltage, play around with the LLC. Start at the mid way point and go one way... if it gets worst go the other. If better, go a little further and see if it's worst or not.


----------



## reaperUK

hey guys, dunno if anyone of you are experiencing my problem, if i restart my pc when on desktop it goes thru all the motions but when my desktop reappears i cant do anything ie log on to internet or play games etc, all my icons highlight with the cursor but nothing happens when i click on them, i have to ctrl alt del just to shut it down then reboot then everything is ok, hope i explained it ok lol, thx in advance


----------



## laurie

Further to the fact that the R2.0 can only turn off cores and not enable extra cores; it also still has the noise issue from the analog output.
When the system is shutdown it still outputs a horrible sound rather loudly through your speakers.
Pretty disappointing stuff.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaperUK*
> 
> hey guys, dunno if anyone of you are experiencing my problem, if i restart my pc when on desktop it goes thru all the motions but when my desktop reappears i cant do anything ie log on to internet or play games etc, all my icons highlight with the cursor but nothing happens when i click on them, i have to ctrl alt del just to shut it down then reboot then everything is ok, hope i explained it ok lol, thx in advance


Sounds like a Windows issue to me...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laurie*
> 
> Further to the fact that the R2.0 can only turn off cores and not enable extra cores; it also still has the noise issue from the analog output.
> When the system is shutdown it still outputs a horrible sound rather loudly through your speakers.
> Pretty disappointing stuff.


Does it do it as it shuts down or when the power cuts out?


----------



## laurie

I suppose it's as the PSU turns off. So when the power cuts out.


----------



## Kvjavs

Is the R2 worth it over the regular Sabertooth 990FX? I don't see how the motherboard can be "Windows 8" ready and the other one not. Except any features the UEFI supports that Windows 8 can take advantage of, that most of us probably won't use.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laurie*
> 
> I suppose it's as the PSU turns off. So when the power cuts out.


Have you got a different set of speakers to try? Just to eliminate that as a possibility.


----------



## laurie

I don't I'm afraid. They never did it with my older motheboard. Or any other before that. Only the Sabertooth R1 and R2.

I have a small amp that feeds two large hifi speakers. It does it with headphones as well. Both my Steelseires 7H and a pair of Grado SR80s.
It has to be an issue with the board. But quite what I don't know.


----------



## Krusher33

Interesting!

I'll be installing mine this weekend. I'll let you know if mine does the same.


----------



## laurie

Ok mate thanks. If you could try unlocking something I would really appreciate it. I'm waiting for Asus to get back to me. They have confirmed that they have my question but are directing it to the correct team, or something.


----------



## sunset1

Lauri i dont have a solution to your sound issue but in the past i have had it on some boards other than asus. Kind of a wild thought maybe the power supply forums would have an solution.. like the things you wrap around monitor cords um ferriets?


----------



## Tweeky

maybe this will help

http://www.johny.org/2008/02/asus-realtek-hd-audio-problem/


----------



## Cyco-Dude

i'm a little disappointed with the fan controls on this board...it seems the cpu fan headers cannot control 3-pin fans (why?), and the chassis fan headers can't be set to read other temp probes (like the cpu). this really limits the flexibility (particularly for watercooling), which is a shame. my abit motherboard from 2004 still kicks ass for fan controls, what the heck! guess i'll hope for a bios update that fixes those issues; there's no reason why it couldn't be done.

in the meantime, i guess i'll get started on my overclocking misadventures. i need to take a pic of this thing too, so i can get added to the list.


----------



## grunion

Runs P95 for 64hrs by accident, no errors.
Run 3DMV and it crashes on the second cpu test


----------



## Krusher33

It was tired after that 64 hr test.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Runs P95 for 64hrs by accident, no errors.
> Run 3DMV and it crashes on the second cpu test


64 hours and you didn't notice?????


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyco-Dude*
> 
> i'm a little disappointed with the fan controls on this board...it seems the cpu fan headers cannot control 3-pin fans (why?), and the chassis fan headers can't be set to read other temp probes (like the cpu). this really limits the flexibility (particularly for watercooling), which is a shame. my abit motherboard from 2004 still kicks ass for fan controls, what the heck! guess i'll hope for a bios update that fixes those issues; there's no reason why it couldn't be done.
> in the meantime, i guess i'll get started on my overclocking misadventures. i need to take a pic of this thing too, so i can get added to the list.


Mine runs 3 three pin fans and one PWM fan just fine, no problems setting fan speeds via AI Suite II either.


----------



## Cyco-Dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*
> 
> Mine runs 3 three pin fans and one PWM fan just fine, no problems setting fan speeds via AI Suite II either.


nothing i do makes any difference for the two 3-pin fans plugged into the cpu and cpu_opt fan headers on my board. the top chassis fan header worked so i dunno.


----------



## sunset1

my system has no issues using fan controlls either but I do remember it took me a bit to find how to control them. Sorry but my system is down while i mod my video cards otherwise id get on it and find out how i did it.


----------



## Darth Llama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaperUK*
> 
> hey guys, dunno if anyone of you are experiencing my problem, if i restart my pc when on desktop it goes thru all the motions but when my desktop reappears i cant do anything ie log on to internet or play games etc, all my icons highlight with the cursor but nothing happens when i click on them, i have to ctrl alt del just to shut it down then reboot then everything is ok, hope i explained it ok lol, thx in advance


Sounds suspiciously like some malware jacking with the permissions. If you can boot into safemode and get desktop functionally you might be able to fix it running malwarebytes from safemode. If its a well built program thats nerfing you, it will keep the app from being installed in normal mode, but if you put the malwarebytes download to a usb stick or burn it to a cd/dvd and run it from safe mode you should be able to work around this.


----------



## laurie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> maybe this will help
> http://www.johny.org/2008/02/asus-realtek-hd-audio-problem/


Thanks for the link.
Same issue though









It's not as big a deal as the missing cores though.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> PoseidonsPalace:
> I had a new muskin 550w power supply that died. I rma'd it and the replacement worked. later i would get random reboots, and other errors. Over time I moved it to other computers because it was a known good unit. Recently I bought a couple of new antec truepower power supplies on sale at newegg.
> Funny how my old systems all of a sudden were fixed. Btw these were socket 775 motherboards.
> I always thought a power supply would work or not work. Not give random errors. So on this build i did some research on vrms and went to the power supply forum. This is an area where i am weak. Learn about vdrop and other issues. the Bulldozer requires close regulation when overclocking ( I hope im explaining this correctly so guys feel free to chime in)
> All i can say is This time i bought a high dollar power supply (seasonic 750x gold. ) Im sure there are great power supplies that are cheaper.I have 0 problems. Oh and thats why I went to the sabertooth 990fx. These were recomondations from the guys here on OCN.
> Im not saying spend money where you dont need to. However maybe you can borrow a nice power supply from soneone just to test with for a while.
> I apologize if it seems im beating a dead horse but I thought i would share my experience. And i wont mention it again unless you ask.
> Either way good luck. And I wish you the best.


I have the Seasonic as well and have had zero issue. I also have a lower priced XFX Core 550w and that was also a solid unit. Do a little research and it goes a longway, check out hardware secrets Poseidon. Thay have a good deal of information on PSU's and some other hardware. There Gold Awards are solid picks in my experience so far. You can get a solid lower wattage PSu you for $50-70 or wait for a deal at Newegg or other retailer and get a Seasonic. 5 year warranty and plenty of great reviews. I paid $110 for my x-Gold 750w.


----------



## grunion

So my board runs more stable in DOCP mode


----------



## Tweeky

docp is a good place to start then you will have timings and other settings you should not go below when overclocking


----------



## cab2

I have a new SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0. It came with BIOS 0219, it worked fine but on boot it didn't show the available options, Del, F8, etc. So I updated to the latest 0803, but now it doesn't beep on bootup. Any ideas?


----------



## laurie

The only option you get on any of the BIOS revisions is press DEL for BIOS.
Also the fast boot will be enabled by default which makes it impossible to get into BIOS without using the little microswitch on the bottom of the board.
Not sure about the lack of beep though. Try the little button and see if you can get into the BIOS at all.


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laurie*
> 
> The only option you get on any of the BIOS revisions is press DEL for BIOS.
> Also the fast boot will be enabled by default which makes it impossible to get into BIOS without using the little microswitch on the bottom of the board.
> Not sure about the lack of beep though. Try the little button and see if you can get into the BIOS at all.


There should be F8 for boot menu, perhaps more. Gigabyte uses F12, so it's handy to display the options because not all of us are good at memorizing trivia.







It beeped originally, then after the BIOS update it stopped. I reset CMOS but that didn't help. So if there are errrors I won't know? The Direct Key is hard to reach, why don't I just disable it. The manual seems to imply that once disabled it becomes just like a power button.


----------



## laurie

You can turn of quick boot in the BIOS. Then you would get the Flash screen with the 'Press Del' Prompt.
Or you can use the pin header next to the direct key and stick your reset button to it. That's what I've done.
You still can press F8 etc you just wont be prompted. You will need to mash it too to if you have quick boot on.

Might sound silly but have you checked your little speaker? Make sure it's not come loose or died.


----------



## Mr-Mechraven

Gonna sound really silly asking this but.......... i have a single gpu, can i use another PCIE slot besides the top one ? I have no issue using the top slot but wondered if i can use one of the other x16 slots for single gpu ?

Thanks in advance guys


----------



## laurie

Though it can run two cards in SLI at full x16 (The two pale brown ones) the manual still recommends the use of slot 1 for a single card.
I can't see why it would make a difference myself though.
Run a benchmark, move the card etc. That's the only way to see for sure.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> docp is a good place to start then you will have timings and other settings you should not go below when overclocking


Is it kind of like XMP on the Intel boards?


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laurie*
> 
> You can turn of quick boot in the BIOS. Then you would get the Flash screen with the 'Press Del' Prompt.
> Or you can use the pin header next to the direct key and stick your reset button to it. That's what I've done.
> You still can press F8 etc you just wont be prompted. You will need to mash it too to if you have quick boot on.
> Might sound silly but have you checked your little speaker? Make sure it's not come loose or died.


Thank you. Yes I checked, I can send a beep command to speaker and it works.

Doesn't everybody's SABERTOOTH beep once when it boots????? Why did mine stop after the BIOS update?

Talking about about headers, the SABERTOOTH R2.0 has an unmarked 3-pin header near the CPU_FAN. The manual doesn't show it either, any ideas what it might be for?


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Mechraven*
> 
> Gonna sound really silly asking this but.......... i have a single gpu, can i use another PCIE slot besides the top one ? I have no issue using the top slot but wondered if i can use one of the other x16 slots for single gpu ?
> Thanks in advance guys


slots 1 and/or 3 will give x16 performance

the other slots can be used but the performance will be less


----------



## cab2

... and another question. I can feel the heat radiating off the VRM, it's like a space heater. I thought mobos had gotten better with digital power control.


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## hotrod717

Could someone please explain how to control fans through AI Suite II?







I've messed around with it, but cannot figure out how to individually control fans from pwm and 3-pin headers.


----------



## OptimalOvrclock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Could someone please explain how to control fans through AI Suite II?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've messed around with it, but cannot figure out how to individually control fans from pwm and 3-pin headers.


I will do my best to explain what I know. First open AI sute II and then click the Thermal Radar Button. Now you click the Second tab on the bottom that looks like a fan and it will show you a picture of the mother board if you click the cpu fan it will open a window and you click setting in the bottom of that windos then you will see Profile with a drop down and several premade settings to choose from. You can make one and drag the line to fit what you want them to do. You can also check the boxes on the right to add temperature monitars to fit that profile While in this screen you can click the cha button on the bottom to go to the setting of the chassis fan settings and set them as well. I don't use them as I am under water and have low rpm fans that I run 12v with a fan control on my tower.

Here is a link with a small gif. running that will show the pictures of what I just posted.
Asus Thermal Radar

Hope this helps.


----------



## Krusher33

In this video, JJ does a pretty good run through on the AI program: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-cubX8HndS0


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> In this video, JJ does a pretty good run through on the AI program: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-cubX8HndS0


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OptimalOvrclock*
> 
> I will do my best to explain what I know. First open AI sute II and then click the Thermal Radar Button. Now you click the Second tab on the bottom that looks like a fan and it will show you a picture of the mother board if you click the cpu fan it will open a window and you click setting in the bottom of that windos then you will see Profile with a drop down and several premade settings to choose from. You can make one and drag the line to fit what you want them to do. You can also check the boxes on the right to add temperature monitars to fit that profile While in this screen you can click the cha button on the bottom to go to the setting of the chassis fan settings and set them as well. I don't use them as I am under water and have low rpm fans that I run 12v with a fan control on my tower.
> Here is a link with a small gif. running that will show the pictures of what I just posted.
> Asus Thermal Radar
> Hope this helps.


Thanks for the info. Wasnt doing the drag to indivial spots on list.


----------



## sunset1

hotrod717 dont feel bad 17 + years of building computers and it took me a while before finally took the time to figure it out. Its not very intuitive in my humble opinion.


----------



## sunset1

@ cab2 you mentioned the vrm area was very hot. From what i understand this board does a real good job in voltage regulation. I havent checked mine for a lot of heat but ill do that when I finish modding my gpu cards. I dont recall it being an issue. I have the thermaltake water 2.0 pro extreme (like the H100 ) so i think i would have noticed with no cpu fan on the motherboard.
some of the guys do put a fan over the vrms when they are overclocking a lot.


----------



## sunset1

Mr-Mechraven, I recall a recent post where someone had the gpu (single card ) in other than slot 1 and ran into some bluescreens and irq conflicts. Not sure of the exact setup tho as i didnt see the post so dont know if it was a random issue. But as laurie says they recomend slot 1.


----------



## Mr-Mechraven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> Mr-Mechraven, I recall a recent post where someone had the gpu (single card ) in other than slot 1 and ran into some bluescreens and irq conflicts. Not sure of the exact setup tho as i didnt see the post so dont know if it was a random issue. But as laurie says they recomend slot 1.


Thanks, it was just curiosity that got me. It would have been nice to lower the card so i have more space between top of gpu and cpu cooler but i suppose it doesn't really matter as my system runs cool as is.









Thanks to those who replied


----------



## laurie

Does anyone else have the horrible static sound on power down that Trucker and I have?


----------



## Krusher33

I wanted to test it on my board over the weekend but I didn't have time to install the board.


----------



## reaperUK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laurie*
> 
> Does anyone else have the horrible static sound on power down that Trucker and I have?


i used to get it with my asus xonar dx2 untill i reinstalled the drivers, i totally removed the drivers then used driver cleaner to be sure and its been ok ever since


----------



## laurie

I have done that. Perhaps another go is in order. Thanks.


----------



## Krusher33

Are you installing audio drivers from ASUS's site or from the audio chipset one or from Windows?


----------



## laurie

The ones from the Asus website.


----------



## B4R51

Hi, i recently bought this board and for some reason it is registering all four of my Hard Drives at 128oC, they are cool to the touch so i know the temps are not correct and wondered what may be causing this temp reading error.


----------



## jdotbuch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Mechraven*
> 
> Thanks, it was just curiosity that got me. It would have been nice to lower the card so i have more space between top of gpu and cpu cooler but i suppose it doesn't really matter as my system runs cool as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to those who replied


That's what I thought Mr Mechraven, but putting a single card in another 16x slot will likely cause you the same instability I had with blue screens and screen freezes. Also the card will not perform optimally.


----------



## jdotbuch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laurie*
> 
> Though it can run two cards in SLI at full x16 (The two pale brown ones) the manual still recommends the use of slot 1 for a single card.
> I can't see why it would make a difference myself though.
> Run a benchmark, move the card etc. That's the only way to see for sure.


I'm curious to see if other experience the nightmares I experienced with a single card in the second 16x. This cause me multiple BSDs with multiple IRQ issues and screen freezes. I should mention I experienced problems in this slot with 2 separate cards, my regular use card and another ATI card for a back-up system


----------



## Dnoces

Interesting. When I moved on from sli 560's to 660ti's I only ahd a single card for a while and had it int he second slot for aesthetic reasons. had no issues and no performance issues to speak of


----------



## sunset1

I remember back before the days of irq sharing moving cards around to attempt to force irq's then later you could assign a irq to a slot. Thats one thing i dont miss at all.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> I remember back before the days of irq sharing moving cards around to attempt to force irq's then later you could assign a irq to a slot. Thats one thing i dont miss at all.


ME EITHER!


----------



## jdotbuch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dnoces*
> 
> Interesting. When I moved on from sli 560's to 660ti's I only ahd a single card for a while and had it int he second slot for aesthetic reasons. had no issues and no performance issues to speak of


Win 7 64 bit?


----------



## dixson01974

I have a question about the sata ports. Is there a way to set the ports to Sata 3 6.0gb or is it auto detect, because I know this is not right for a sata 3 6.0gb SSD.

It runs like my older Sata 2 3.0gb drive.


----------



## Tweeky

raidxpert comes on your asus dvd its part of the motherboard drivers it will tell you if sata is III

http://support.amd.com/us/gpudownload/windows/Pages/raid_windows.aspx


----------



## PoseidonsPalace

Which one is the correct temperature?

Core Temp shows the cores at idle usually floating between 32°C and 40°C but the CPU temp in Ai shows 51°C. I have not been able to run a full hour of Prime 95 because even though the Cores seem to level out at 55 -58°C the cpu exceeds 61°C which gets me a bit worried so i end up stopping the test.



i have just purchased a Cooler Master Evo 212, that i am hoping to install tonight as a temporary measure, until i can afford to buy a water cooler to hopefully bring the temps down.

Current CPU-Z data is as follows:



http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2507860

what temperature changes would i expect to be looking at with the Evo attached?


----------



## hession

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2508241

is this all that is needed to be added to that list? if not, plz inform me. thx


----------



## Tweeky

use highest temperature if you like to be safe

use lowest temperature if you like to take risk


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PoseidonsPalace*
> 
> Which one is the correct temperature?
> 
> Core Temp shows the cores at idle usually floating between 32°C and 40°C but the CPU temp in Ai shows 51°C. I have not been able to run a full hour of Prime 95 because even though the Cores seem to level out at 55 -58°C the cpu exceeds 61°C which gets me a bit worried so i end up stopping the test.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have just purchased a Cooler Master Evo 212, that i am hoping to install tonight as a temporary measure, until i can afford to buy a water cooler to hopefully bring the temps down.
> 
> Current CPU-Z data is as follows:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2507860
> 
> 
> 
> what temperature changes would i expect to be looking at with the Evo attached?


Pretty debatable about which to go by. I tend to go by the socket temp because most boards will throttle down the CPU to lower the temps when going by that one.

Here's a somewhat ongoing debate about it: http://www.overclock.net/t/1128821/amd-temp-information-and-guide/0_50. Though there hasn't been much activity there anymore.


----------



## shampoo911

ok... someone please explain me THOROUGHLY how offset values work... (CPU Offset Voltage and CPU/NB Offset voltage)... im currently using manual voltages... i need to know PROS and CONS of each one of them...


----------



## truckerguy

The easy way to put this is you set how much the board will under and over volt depending on the load or lack of load


----------



## shampoo911

so i have to input two values?

you all know that this mobo, under the voltage section, on the cpu voltage, the offset offers two things: positive value and negative value...

question 1: *let's say my BD chip, is on a stock voltage of 1.20v (normally, under manual settings, i have it on 1.45 something). How do i manage to achieve this voltage using offset values?*

question 2: *so, if i enter positive offset values, i have to enter negative offset values too?*

question 3: *this involves LLC... do i have to keep it on while under offset values?*


----------



## SwishaMane

Anyone know what kind of thermal paste ASUS used on the NB and SB? Im hoping to GOSH that it isn't the infamous pink goo...


----------



## Tweeky

on mine they use gray and yellow *pads* not paste


----------



## Krusher33

Pretty sure most motherboards use pads on chipsets and VRM's.


----------



## truckerguy

when using the offset you put one vale in i.e a offset of .5 + or - and Vcore of 1.4 the board will increce up to 1.45 underload when thier is no load it drops to 1.35 Your LLC works this way it adds voltge to maintaine at set voltage with the 2 turn on the board would be fighting its self


----------



## hession

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> on mine they use gray and yellow *pads* not paste


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Pretty sure most motherboards use pads on chipsets and VRM's.


its not gonna hurt or damage the mobo or void the warranty if i use Arctic Silver5 is it? just being safe, the mobo heatsinks get hottt


----------



## PiOfPie

Quick question. I've heard some chatter that disabling one of the integer cores on each module can help out with Bulldozer's single-core performance in certain applications. Is this done through some setting in the BIOS?

I see options to manually enable/disable cores, but it looks like it turns them off in pairs (3/4, 5/6, 7/8) instead of being able to manually select each core. Am I looking under the wrong heading, or does this have to be done at the software level? Thanks!


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hession*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> on mine they use gray and yellow *pads* not paste
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Pretty sure most motherboards use pads on chipsets and VRM's.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> its not gonna hurt or damage the mobo or void the warranty if i use Arctic Silver5 is it? just being safe, the mobo heatsinks get hottt
Click to expand...

I don't think so.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PiOfPie*
> 
> Quick question. I've heard some chatter that disabling one of the integer cores on each module can help out with Bulldozer's single-core performance in certain applications. Is this done through some setting in the BIOS?
> 
> I see options to manually enable/disable cores, but it looks like it turns them off in pairs (3/4, 5/6, 7/8) instead of being able to manually select each core. Am I looking under the wrong heading, or does this have to be done at the software level? Thanks!


Never heard of that.


----------



## sunset1

@PiOfPie I think what they were talking about in regards to disabling some cores was the ability to overclock because of the redution of heat as related to cpu and vrms. My macnine is currently down as i have been procrastinating finishing my mod. So i cant look but im pretty sure there is an option in the bios. At least in my revision 1.x there is a setting for turning on extra cores that were factory disabled. Witthout a reference to the origonal post this is a guess at best. Hope this helps.
Sunset1


----------



## PiOfPie

Sunset, this thread describes roughly what I'm trying to do. It looks like it is possible to do via hardware on the ROG board, but the 1304 BIOS for the Sabertooth doesn't have the option of toggling individual cores, just pairs, so either Asus never bothered to add that functionality or they got rid of it at some point.

I suppose my new question is if anyone knows if any of the older Sabertooth BIOSes gave the option of disabling individual cores.


----------



## truckerguy

I know 1202 did


----------



## PiOfPie

Strange. I wonder why they got rid of it. Now I'm a sad panda.


----------



## sunset1

perfect timing as usual truckerguy. yup if he says it was there he would know better than i ..


----------



## Mistral

I don't think there is a 1202 BIOS did you mean 1208 or 1102?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PiOfPie*
> 
> Sunset, this thread describes roughly what I'm trying to do. It looks like it is possible to do via hardware on the ROG board, but the 1304 BIOS for the Sabertooth doesn't have the option of toggling individual cores, just pairs, so either Asus never bothered to add that functionality or they got rid of it at some point.
> 
> I suppose my new question is if anyone knows if any of the older Sabertooth BIOSes gave the option of disabling individual cores.


It looks to me like it's best to leave the entire chip enabled anyways according to his benchmarks.


----------



## shampoo911

@PiOfPie why disable cores in a 8120??? it is like... redundant... idk... IMHO if you want to disable cores, just go for a fx 6100 or something like that...


----------



## PiOfPie

Mostly just experimentation for the hell of it, Krusher and Shampoo. 4C/4T is worse than 4C/8T at the same clock, but I assume you could also push the chip further with 4C/4T than you could with 4C/8T because the 4 disabled integer cores aren't kicking up heat.


----------



## Peiler

Guys, I have an issue with USB 3.0 and Windows 8 performance.

What USB 3.0 Drivers are you using for the Sabertooth 990FX?

I was transferring some movies last night and I could only go up to 4-5 MB/s.

With same hardware in Windows 7 I was getting 60-70 MB/s.


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> I don't think there is a 1202 BIOS did you mean 1208 or 1102?


Yes your right @4am typo Ive used the 902, 1102, 1208 all have core unlocker and disable core here is my 1090T as a 4 core on 1208 bios



as far as the 1304 I don't know for sure I never looked


----------



## truckerguy

They havent updated the drivers for the USB 3.0 for windows 8


----------



## Krusher33

Is it possible they won't just to get people to buy the R 2.0 version?


----------



## virtualelvis

I am getting 42.1c when running BF3 with the Evo 212 CM
When I run the stability test.. 100% on all cores.. it goes
up to 50C and I'm running at 4264 mhz
Virtualelvis


----------



## virtualelvis

Oh sorry I'm using the 8120.. just saw your chip...


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> Yes your right @4am typo Ive used the 902, 1102, 1208 all have core unlocker and disable core here is my 1090T as a 4 core on 1208 bios
> 
> as far as the 1304 I don't know for sure I never looked


Yes 1304 has got the core unlocker, there is a BIOS option CPU CORE On/OFF Function and in there you can enable and disable the core unlocker and also turn of cores except core 1.


----------



## sunset1

is this core unlocker there also for revision 2.0? I think laurie was looking for it. Sorry if i speeled the name wrong im bad at names.


----------



## truckerguy

Yes it is


----------



## PoseidonsPalace

HI Guys,

Yesterday i ran prime95 but ended up with the following error

[Sat Sep 15 16:13:32 2012]
ERROR: ILLEGAL SUMOUT
Possible hardware failure, consult readme.txt file, restarting test.
Maximum number of warnings exceeded.

This only appears to be on cores 5-6 all others are ok.

Does this mean that they have failed because they are damaged or due to a lack of power?

Or at certain overclocks are you only able to run a set number of cores?

They still appear to be operating according to AI and Core Temp anyway, so i am just a little confused









I have now installed the Cooler Master Evo 212 and seen massive changes in temps idle down to 29° and under load cores level of about 55° when the last successful Prime95 run had done so for 15mins (overclock at that stage was 3998Mhz).

my current CPU-Z is as below:

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2512615



As a side note where do i change the warning temperature for the socket temp on the board as at idle it seems to stay at between 51-52° but at 55° Core Temp the socket temp continues to exceed the board default.

Would it be advisable to change this or not?


----------



## Djmatrix32

I just ordered this bored looking forward to being apart of the club!


----------



## TwiggLe

So.... Need input...

We recently got a kitten...
He has went behind my desk a few times and will trip the power to my power strip. This last time he did it I noticed afterwards that my front USB 3.0 and my Rear USB 3.0 ports aren't working...

Any ideas? or am I boned and most likely need to RMA my board and would that even be covered by the warranty...


----------



## TwiggLe

So I got them working again not sure what fixed it...
Downloaded the USB drivers installed those didn't change anything..

So I seen there was a newer BIOS ( was on 1102 now on newest ) and so I downloaded and installed that. Now they are working... The newer bios said it had fixes for some USB 3.0 devices but I didn't think it would fix broke USB 3.0 ports









Either way it's working again... And forgot updating the BIOS gets rid of my OC profiles :-/


----------



## shampoo911

so im having this weird issue...

i have my CPU/NB freq at: 2634mhz (more or less)
my HT Link: 2859mhz (more or lezz)

it just happened a couple of days ago up until THIS right moment...

while im playing, the sound COMPLETELY stops... no sound at all... (im using a sound blaster x-fi titanium fatality pro)
and, the lan connection STOPS too... at the same time...

LAN and SOUND...

without overclocking, this problem seizes... but with the clocks above mentioned, plus a 8150 overclocked to 4.8ghz and the rams at 2200mhz... it happens... and it is REALLY pissing me off...

any help please


----------



## fugatron78

Hello All. i get weird problems.
My rig was working with 965 @4 Ghz on 1,3 v over a year, but sometime in mar/april im updated the BIOS to 11xx and get prtoblems with restarts BSOD, afther that upg to 12xx version and problems vere not removed, afther that have replaced 650 w PSU for 1300 w PSU, becasue was in that is failing down. few days upgraded to 1309 BIOS becasue they wroted it improve stability. but without luck.

Im still getting BSOD, mostly related to error 1, 1A, A0 few 50 and others.

Currently working with 1,4 v on CPU, but not shure if the NB voltage can help with that...... is already on NB - 1,3 v

Have someone similar problems afther the BIOS update ??????

here is screenshot of actual BIOS https://dl.dropbox.com/u/15047343/fotka.JPG have set NB vrom 1.3 to 1,325 will test if is it stable

BASE clock 200 x 18 = 3,6 GHz
can help someone if is enought or can go UP, and on what settings.... as im mentione dit was stable on 200 x 20 = 4,0 GHz vith 1,3 V over 11 months


----------



## drongy

hello i am new you can add me
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2515800


----------



## Axxess+

Hey guise. I just bought this mobo, and coming from my GAMA770UD3, i'm a bit confused. Is using the OC tuner safe? I tried to use it, and it clocked my RAM(which is clocked @ 1600mhz, but is limited to 1333mhz since i believe denebs can't clock higher) @ 1438 mhz. My NB is clocked @ 2.6ghz, would this help ?


----------



## jdotbuch

Could use some help once again. Machine was working fine but now won't post BIOS. This build is 4 months old, I have had some configuration issues with it but had resolved them. Had not experienced an issue like this until today.

Sabertooth 990FX
AMD FX 8120 processor (8 core)
GeForce 560,
16384 Ram - 4 Corsair Vengance 4gb's, 1333, 9-9-9-24. d
Corsair GS700 Watts - power supply
Windows 7 version 6.1, build 7601, sp 1 , 64 bit.
windows install on an SSD Crucial m4 128 GB (firmware updated)

I have a green light and solid glow from the light on my power supply. It's also 4 months old.
Machine begins to power up, fans spins as normal but no display.

I have watched the board on power a few times now and I don't see any red lights on the board indicating a problem with any components.
When I press MemOK! the system also begins to start up but the DRAM light flashes but it doesn't POST. When I shut it down and restart, again no post and no lights.

I had tested overclocking the cpu a couple weeks ago, but the temps got up to 65c and put it back to default until I upgrade my cooling. The last few weeks it would reach about 58 c periodically when playing a game or watching vids. IF the CPU was the problem, would I not see the CPU light. I do see the CPU LED when I press my reset button on case.

I haven't pulled any RAM yet and would think I would have a red light if it was a RAM problem, but maybe not.

Any thoughts or experiences?

Update - I have reset the CPU and no luck, no noticeable damage or burns


----------



## Tweeky

re seat video card

check all power connector to video card

check that all power cables are properly connected

remove and reinstall cable to monitor

monitor turned on and power up

check that all 4 led on the motherboard turn red and then green

do a motherboard reset with the jumper pin see instructions and follow carefully then use the go button to start

do all fans try to start and do they stay on

remove all and put one stick in slot #2 try it then try the other sticks in slot #2

try again with slot #3


----------



## jdotbuch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> re seat video card
> check all power connector to video card
> check that all power cables are properly connected
> remove and reinstall cable to monitor
> monitor turned on and power up
> check that all 4 led on the motherboard turn red and then green
> do a motherboard reset with the jumper pin see instructions and follow carefully then use the go button to start
> do all fans try to start and do they stay on
> remove all and put one stick in slot #2 try it then try the other sticks in slot #2
> try again with slot #3


vid card - power cables checked, even swapped it out for my back up vid card, no luck
main power, cpu power, drive powered check
cables reinstalled on both monitors (dual setup)
dram led, cpu led, vga led, boot device led do not turn red and then green for POST ( RMA the board? - I will be calling ASUS tomorrow when open)
motherboard reset done with jumper pin, had also taken out the battery previously
all fans start, no cpu cooling yet Tweaky, this is definately going to delay me








I haven't exhausted this ram test yet but I did do some swapping, I will do later and re post if it helps
I guess I am most concerned with the not seeing the POST LEDs


----------



## Tweeky

you must have a 3 or 4 pin fan plug into the cpu fan connector

with speaker attached to motherboard (lower right corner) do you get any beep codes

have power supply checked at local computer store


----------



## Tora1337

Hey folks,

Just joined here. I've had my Asus Sabertooth about 6 or 7 months now (replaced a severely budget board - Zotac manufacture, which worked well with a dual core AMD), and I got it I guess about shortly after they made their debut. So far I've done mild (very mild, I think) overclocking using only the UEFI Bios settings (I'm not much into the math of overclocking) and found it made it really simple to do, just by doing the auto, or manually inputting some multipliers. Though because I'm not too sharp on the maths end of it, I didn't do that much, I think I upped them to 18 or so, which yielded similar results to autoclocking it.

As a result, I've achieved 3.6 Ghz, but recently due to a PSU failure (it's going out on me, I get black screens when I try to fire up games, and have noticed that there is a corrupted file in the OS when I tried to roll back), which I'm correcting. My build shows a modular PSU that comes in in a day. I figured I'd just put it in the sig-build because it'll be here on Friday. Anyway, just introducing myself and adding my validation to the mix. I'll be posting pics as soon as I can find the USB cord to my camera... I just moved, lol. So all sorts of **** is lost in the shuffle at the moment. Can't remember what box I shoved it into.

Anyway, here's my validation CPU-Z style: LINKY!

It might be in my sig too, but I think I'm having a problem with the markup. We'll see if I don't have to edit this in a minute or if it's going to not display properly as I suspect. Thanks.


----------



## jdotbuch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> you must have a 3 or 4 pin fan plug into the cpu fan connector
> with speaker attached to motherboard (lower right corner) do you get any beep codes
> have power supply checked at local computer store
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1055406/


I wish but the CPU fan is connected to the cpu fan port 1 other fan are connected to the chasis fan 1.
No speaker on this case. I will get the power supply checked but it is new.


----------



## Darth Llama

got to love the 1 button bios oc features..
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2517302


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdotbuch*
> 
> vid card - power cables checked, even swapped it out for my back up vid card, no luck
> main power, cpu power, drive powered check
> cables reinstalled on both monitors (dual setup)
> dram led, cpu led, vga led, boot device led do not turn red and then green for POST ( RMA the board? - I will be calling ASUS tomorrow when open)
> motherboard reset done with jumper pin, had also taken out the battery previously
> all fans start, no cpu cooling yet Tweaky, this is definately going to delay me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't exhausted this ram test yet but I did do some swapping, I will do later and re post if it helps
> I guess I am most concerned with the not seeing the POST LEDs


Remove the CPU and check it for bent pins or it could be the PSU not sending the right power good signal.


----------



## jdotbuch

Good news it's 100% my cpu. Swapped it out for a old Phenom II, and I'm back up. I will be RMAing the 8120 tomorrow. I new I should have gone with the 8150


----------



## truckerguy

well AMD is awsome with thier rma they pay all shipping. You can start the ram prosses tonight by going to thier web site


----------



## Djmatrix32

I just got mine today!







http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2517842

I also noticed since installing this Windows tells me only 10.9gb usable ram is this normal or how do I fix it?


----------



## Axxess+

I found the solution to my problem, I overclocked my northbridge a bit further to let my RAM breathe a bit, it's now at it's stock settings!








That SSD sure makes a difference!


----------



## JReames

Hey, I'm having a rough problem with the air flow and cooling on my system.

I'm getting major hot points between the cpu and PCIE slot. Most thermal images I've seen, everyone only has problem near USB 3.0

I'm planning on switching to liquid cooling, and was wondering if cooling the cpu would be enough for the PCIE to cool down.

Running:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



GPU: 2x Radeon HD6870
CPU: AMD FX-8150 (btw: biggest piece of **** fan on that crap, super noisy and "broken")
RAM: 16 gig of ram, (Corsair Vengeance)
Boot: 120 ssd boot drive
Storage: 2 tb in RAID 0
PSU: 1250W OCZ(don't give me crap about being OCZ, heard it all)
Case: Corsaid Obsidian 650D



FANS:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



First few weeks, I realized thermal paste had a bubble, cleaned and redid, I also replaced the fans on my case
TOP: 2x AeroCool Shark 120mm,
BACK: 1x same as above
FRONT: and (I really had to squeeze to make this fit) 1x NZXT FN-200RB 200mm
I'm hoping to use these fans in whatever cooling system I build.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djmatrix32*
> 
> I just got mine today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2517842
> I also noticed since installing this Windows tells me only 10.9gb usable ram is this normal or how do I fix it?


huge bottleneck there dude... make sure to put the memories in this order

G-Skill
OCZ
G-Skill
OCZ

to enable dual channel


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JReames*
> 
> Hey, I'm having a rough problem with the air flow and cooling on my system.
> 
> I'm getting major hot points between the cpu and PCIE slot. Most thermal images I've seen, everyone only has problem near USB 3.0
> 
> I'm planning on switching to liquid cooling, and was wondering if cooling the cpu would be enough for the PCIE to cool down.
> 
> Running:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> GPU: 2x Radeon HD6870
> CPU: AMD FX-8150 (btw: biggest piece of **** fan on that crap, super noisy and "broken")
> RAM: 16 gig of ram, (Corsair Vengeance)
> Boot: 120 ssd boot drive
> Storage: 2 tb in RAID 0
> PSU: 1250W OCZ(don't give me crap about being OCZ, heard it all)
> Case: Corsaid Obsidian 650D
> 
> 
> 
> FANS:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> First few weeks, I realized thermal paste had a bubble, cleaned and redid, I also replaced the fans on my case
> TOP: 2x AeroCool Shark 120mm,
> BACK: 1x same as above
> FRONT: and (I really had to squeeze to make this fit) 1x NZXT FN-200RB 200mm
> I'm hoping to use these fans in whatever cooling system I build.


If you have nothing blocking the airflow there then it's probably needs TIM reapplied or something.


----------



## JReames

Quote:


> If you have nothing blocking the airflow there then it's probably needs TIM reapplied or something.


I wish that's what it was. I've tried that already, and temps did drop some, but now that the case is in an easy to reach place. I can literally just put a finger on the side of the CPU fan case, and the noise is gone.


----------



## Djmatrix32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> huge bottleneck there dude... make sure to put the memories in this order
> G-Skill
> OCZ
> G-Skill
> OCZ
> to enable dual channel


Eh I know its a huge bottleneck but it works







and I do have it in Dual channel mode.


----------



## Axxess+

Since I got my mobo, I only set the different components "Capability" in AI Suite to their max, and set my multiplier to 18. LLC is at max for all. Am I trusting my mobo too much?


----------



## thethat

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2520027

There is my proof of ownership.

However, I would love some help from people with 8150s.
I am having a hard time figuring out what to do to get decent ocing.


----------



## Djmatrix32

I was able to hit 5ghz for my 1st time today on the Sabertooth R2.0









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2519983


----------



## DracoManX69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> need some help updating my bios I down load it then gointo bios and use asus easy tune and when I click on it I get the mesage can not read file it isent a EFI file??


Probably late but it turns out the storage device needs to be FAT/FAT32, not NTFS, as found in this thread http://adf.ly/D68FV


----------



## DracoManX69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thethat*
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2520027
> There is my proof of ownership.
> However, I would love some help from people with 8150s.
> I am having a hard time figuring out what to do to get decent ocing.


I haven't got a 8150 but i have an 8120 so bascially same,

It depends on hiw high an overclock your going for, i've got 4.2 with a noctua d14, stable, which for the setup i'm running is pretty pissweak

easiest thing to do is turn up cpu multiplier in bios, the higher you go the more advanced it gets, voltages, ram speeds, cache speeds etc etc


----------



## reaperUK

hey guys, this is just a follow up on my previous thread.
hey guys, dunno if anyone of you are experiencing my problem, if i restart my pc when on desktop it goes thru all the motions but when my desktop reappears i cant do anything ie log on to internet or play games etc, all my icons highlight with the cursor but nothing happens when i click on them, i have to ctrl alt del just to shut it downthen wait a few mins then reboot then everything is ok, hope i explained it ok lol, thx in advance.

i have booted into safemode and run malwarebytes which found nothing so i did a fresh install of w7 and i still had the same problem so i then installed another harddrive but it still does it, am i looking at rma my board or do you have an answer for me lol.


----------



## Djmatrix32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaperUK*
> 
> hey guys, this is just a follow up on my previous thread.
> hey guys, dunno if anyone of you are experiencing my problem, if i restart my pc when on desktop it goes thru all the motions but when my desktop reappears i cant do anything ie log on to internet or play games etc, all my icons highlight with the cursor but nothing happens when i click on them, i have to ctrl alt del just to shut it downthen wait a few mins then reboot then everything is ok, hope i explained it ok lol, thx in advance.
> i have booted into safemode and run malwarebytes which found nothing so i did a fresh install of w7 and i still had the same problem so i then installed another harddrive but it still does it, am i looking at rma my board or do you have an answer for me lol.


I had a similar problem I re-installed windows 7 and all I got was a black screen with the cursor then I re-did the install and every thing is fine now.


----------



## Speedy-j

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djmatrix32*
> 
> I was able to hit 5ghz for my 1st time today on the Sabertooth R2.0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2519983


Nice but hitting 5GHz is not that hard with a decent CPU
Here is mine http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2394992

And its stable at 4800MHz


----------



## oneshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedy-j*
> 
> Nice but hitting 5GHz is not that hard with a decent CPU
> Here is mine http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2394992
> And its stable at 4800MHz


Your absolutely right. Getting stable & smooth operation while @ 100% core usage is quite another animal.



I'm new here so hello all & lots of great info here for us amateur clockers.
I didn't try pushing her to much yet but these motherboards & processors are solid!
Where else could I get a $99 processor with that much testosterone


----------



## Speedy-j

Very nice overclock on your 4100FX ,for absolute stability you can try LinX and let it run for an hour.
You will see your CPU get very hot with this test.


----------



## virtualelvis

Is this TurboV Evo a good way for beginners to overclock?
and I am overclocked already in the bios.. if I use this TurboV will
it just override my manual oc or should I go and reset first in the bios?
Thanks Virtual Elvis


----------



## Djmatrix32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedy-j*
> 
> Nice but hitting 5GHz is not that hard with a decent CPU
> Here is mine http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2394992
> And its stable at 4800MHz


The motherboard I had before this one was not a good overclocking motherboard.


----------



## oneshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *virtualelvis*
> 
> Is this TurboV Evo a good way for beginners to overclock?
> and I am overclocked already in the bios.. if I use this TurboV will
> it just override my manual oc or should I go and reset first in the bios?
> Thanks Virtual Elvis


You know, It may be possible just to continue your OC using the TurboV Evo. I've never tried so I'm not sure. (anyone?)
I know at first I used it for minor clocking but normally your motherboard will just re-boot if it has a problem with your settings so I just went the bios method also. If its going to fail & re-boot, I'm there anyway so I may as well go into bios. (unless theirs something I don't know) . It's great for temps, fans and other info.
It would be nice to hear of someone who has only used the software to clock & how far they had gotten because you can save those settings as a file and kick it in only when you need ludicrous speed. Most of the time I'm e-mailing, doing spreadsheets or word processing. That amount of power, energy, ram & processor stress just isn't needed for those kind of processes.

Now if it would only work like my video card....... Sensing the stress on the processor stock and automatically loading & running my chosen OC profile when needed.
Now that would cut down on some wear and tear! (am I missing anything?)

Sorry, I prob didn't help you but your question did bring up some interesting thoughts in my own mind.


----------



## thethat

Which PCI express slots would be used for having dual gpus on the sabertooth?
A diagram would help me lots lol.


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thethat*
> 
> Which PCI express slots would be used for having dual gpus on the sabertooth?
> A diagram would help me lots lol.


The *first* and *third* pci slots run at 16x


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thethat*
> 
> Which PCI express slots would be used for having dual gpus on the sabertooth?
> A diagram would help me lots lol.


The ones in tan are the ones you want to use.

Slots 1&4


----------



## sunset1

you can save yourself a lot of headaches by taking the time ( yes i know its long) to read the manual and the previous posts because most of the questions have already been answered. :>
sunset1


----------



## thethat

Yes, I know. However, with 2 revisions being out there, they tend to specify on the new manual.
Also, I was planning on having dual watercool gpus, so I needed to now which I could use to install the connector kit between the two.
All what I was reading was just calling them by their names.
But thanks to this information, my GPU is in the right pci now atleast.


----------



## sunset1

cool. You have a point there I didt think about that. Ill try to be more helpful next time. :>


----------



## I12postuup12

Hey Guys does this thread involve the 2.0 version?? Thanks


----------



## Djmatrix32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I12postuup12*
> 
> Hey Guys does this thread involve the 2.0 version?? Thanks


I don't see why not.


----------



## I12postuup12

Saweet Has anyone had problems with audio i just put my board in friday and i didnt hook audio up tills unday and as soon as i hook the speakers up, the speakers started making this crackling sound on and off like once every 30 seconds so my first instinct was go to asus website and download the most recent drivers which i did but the same thing kept happening. The sound software has me confused because all my options are front panel its almost like it doesnt recognize the back even though when i plug something in it says audio connected to front panel even though its the back?? Just was wondering if any one has experienced this. Thanks


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I12postuup12*
> 
> Saweet Has anyone had problems with audio i just put my board in friday and i didnt hook audio up tills unday and as soon as i hook the speakers up, the speakers started making this crackling sound on and off like once every 30 seconds so my first instinct was go to asus website and download the most recent drivers which i did but the same thing kept happening. The sound software has me confused because all my options are front panel its almost like it doesnt recognize the back even though when i plug something in it says audio connected to front panel even though its the back?? Just was wondering if any one has experienced this. Thanks


Plug and play for me, but I don't use the FP.
Try the audio directly from realtek, version 2.70.


----------



## I12postuup12

Ok I will Try That as soon as i get home Thanks!


----------



## sunset1

mispost.


----------



## virtualelvis

I'll try it anyway.. I can easily go back to this.. thanks for the reply


----------



## I12postuup12

Thanks for the recommendation to the realtek sit4e i really should have thought of that my self but it worked =)


----------



## shampoo911

still have an odd problem...

cpu: 4.7ghz
cpu voltage: 1.4375v
cpu/nb: 2700mhz
cpu/nb voltage: 1.45v (auto settings without LLC)
ram: 2200mhz 9-11-10-24 1T

with this settings, 100% of the times i play something like transformers, dirt 3 or whatever, the sound STOPS... not even crackles... NOTHING... and at the same time, the LAN driver fails...

what's wrong? im freaking out...

problem is solved, when i dont overclock NOTHING at all.... im currently on stock settings...


----------



## cez4r

Asus released today new bios for R2.0:

ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R2.0/SABERTOOTH-990FX-R20-ASUS-0906.zip


----------



## laurie

Nice one. Thanks for the link. I wonder what improvements there have been.


----------



## warpuck

I just grabbed a sabertooth off geeks.com for $121 shippped. Now I am 990fx owner. Refurbished. Hopefully it is a working board and works as well as the last refurished Asus board I got. It's (790GX DDR2) sitting in the corner and folding 24/7.


----------



## Djmatrix32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> I just grabbed a sabertooth off geeks.com for $121 shippped. Now I am 990fx owner. Refurbished. Hopefully it is a working board and works as well as the last refurished Asus board I got. It's (790GX DDR2) sitting in the corner and folding 24/7.


Let me know how they are there are some things I want to buy there


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> I just grabbed a sabertooth off geeks.com for $121 shippped. Now I am 990fx owner. Refurbished. Hopefully it is a working board and works as well as the last refurished Asus board I got. It's (790GX DDR2) sitting in the corner and folding 24/7.


That's still a good deal! The mobo should still be under warranty under Asus.


----------



## I12postuup12

Alright guys i thought my audio was fixed the last 2 days in a row and everyday i shut my pc off then the next day after work i start it up and my audio crackle and makes a weird pop and screeching sound continuasly and that is all you here if i uninstall the driver then re install it works fine for the day. Any help would be appreciated Thanks!


----------



## Axxess+

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I12postuup12*
> 
> Alright guys i thought my audio was fixed the last 2 days in a row and everyday i shut my pc off then the next day after work i start it up and my audio crackle and makes a weird pop and screeching sound continuasly and that is all you here if i uninstall the driver then re install it works fine for the day. Any help would be appreciated Thanks!


It's only a thought, but is Windows Update set on automatic? Maybe Windows is trying to update your audio drivers with false or generic drivers that might not be fully compatible with your mobo.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I12postuup12*
> 
> Alright guys i thought my audio was fixed the last 2 days in a row and everyday i shut my pc off then the next day after work i start it up and my audio crackle and makes a weird pop and screeching sound continuasly and that is all you here if i uninstall the driver then re install it works fine for the day. Any help would be appreciated Thanks!


How does it behave with the FP disconnected?


----------



## pony-tail

I have just bought the rev 2.0 of this board as a replacement for my aging Gigabyte 790x-usb3 board ( this system is my work computer ) the specs of which are in my other rigs ( AMD-quad)
The board is a little bit overkill for what the machine is and does - but I was so impressed with the first revision ( in my gaming rig ) that I went for another one .
Long story short - has anybody on here used a Sabertooth Rev 2.0 with Linux , if so what distro and were there any issues ?


----------



## I12postuup12

Axxess That is a good point and it quite possibly could be. And by FP disconnected front panel? I have not tried that yet. but i will as soon as im home =)


----------



## Darth Llama

my sabertooth 990fx R2.0 is impressing me in the oc department, I have my locked multiplier 1075T (3.0Ghz) at 250on the bus ( it was 200 factory) on the stock amd box cooler.. ^ ^. Scared to go higher than 3.75Ghz without better cooling though. (might pull out the Zalman CNPS9700 that ripped a mount off my msi 790 fx-gd70) .
here is the cpuz before I forget..
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2524695


----------



## agonbar

Hi! I had the problem with the audio noises (high pitching sounds, etc.) and casually I found :
http://drivers.softpedia.com/get/SOUND-CARD/REALTEK/Realtek-HD-Audio-Driver-270-for-Vista64-Windows-7-x64-Windows-8-x64.shtml
And decided to give them a try, it has been a week and I didn't find any problems, everything was automagically solved


----------



## I12postuup12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agonbar*
> 
> Hi! I had the problem with the audio noises (high pitching sounds, etc.) and casually I found :
> http://drivers.softpedia.com/get/SOUND-CARD/REALTEK/Realtek-HD-Audio-Driver-270-for-Vista64-Windows-7-x64-Windows-8-x64.shtml
> And decided to give them a try, it has been a week and I didn't find any problems, everything was automagically solved


Thanks Agonbar i will try it!!


----------



## grunion

Blarg I'm RMAing my Sabertooth before for my 90 days is up.


----------



## The Storm

Here is my link to verify my info to become a club member. http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2520879


----------



## virtualelvis

Here is my club pass

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2526041


----------



## virtualelvis

Does anyone see why I can't get it to run stable at over 4500 mhz? When I set the multiplier to 18x
the AMD Overdrive says stops.. possible hardware failure...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *virtualelvis*
> 
> Here is my club pass
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2526041


----------



## virtualelvis

the cpu is staying cool.. playinig BF3 it stays below 50c .. I have a 212 EVO cooler master


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *virtualelvis*
> 
> Here is my club pass
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2526041


You been added


----------



## Darth Llama

well hell lol
Can I haz a Club Pass? http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2524695
here is the prior with overclockers user name used..
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2517302


----------



## cab2

ok here's mine



What's with DIGI+ and EPU Power Saving Mode????? This puppy is an energy hog, at idle uses 68 Watt at the wall.


----------



## Djmatrix32

Does not show my headset is plugged in any ideas?


----------



## Axxess+

>this thread
>all questions
>no answers


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Llama*
> 
> well hell lol
> Can I haz a Club Pass? http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2524695
> here is the prior with overclockers user name used..
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2517302


You been added


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> ok here's mine
> 
> What's with DIGI+ and EPU Power Saving Mode????? This puppy is an energy hog, at idle uses 68 Watt at the wall.


you been added


----------



## truckerguy

What would you like to know? If I know Im more then willing to awser


----------



## Djmatrix32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> What would you like to know? If I know Im more then willing to awser


should i RMA my motherboard? My audio shows that the front plugs are being used and i dont have any thing plugged into them and the back audio ports do not work.


----------



## gozu

Im currently building my third Sabertooth 990FX rig, and this one seems to be having a strange issue.

Whenever I shut down the box, right before the system clicks off, the red CPU LED comes on and the fans spin up to maximum. This only happens during shutdown, everything posts just fine on startup. Theres currently no overclock in place since the problem started right out of the box, and its using the 1304 BIOS.

To Diagnose the problem, I have done the following:

Replaced the CPU with a new one
Replaced the motherboard with a new one
Swapped the RAM from another machine that works
Took out the crossfire setup and left a single card in
Disconnected the chassis fans from the board and connected them directly to the PSU
Double, then Triple checked all of the power connections (CPU, Mobo, PCI etc)
Reseated every component
Checked all the standoffs and also checked for possible grounding at the backplate
Reflashed the 1304 BIOS just in case
Checked all the temperatures (cpu hangs around 34 - 36 idle, 47 - 50 during 1 hour occt stress test)
Voltages appear to match those in the BIOS according to the ASUS monitor
Disconnected the SSD and the HD (still happens regardless if a bootable drive exists)

The machine runs great when its on, and shuts down fine up to the point where you would expect the system to click off, but then it doesnt, and the red led turns on and the system sits there blowing air indefinitly. Hitting the power button while its in this state will turn the system back on, causing the led to turn off and the fans go back to normal speeds.

My current hunch is that there is a problem with the PSU, since that is the only common component now, but if that were the case youd expect to see problems while the system was under load. The voltages under load seem solid.

Called ASUS tech support, they forwarded me to Tier 2 support where I waited on hold for 3 hours before giving up.

I have the rig setup under my profile, but to summarize:

Sabertooth 990FX Rev 1
FX-8150 - 3.6Ghz
G.SKILL Sniper Series 8GB
2x Radeon HD 6950
Crucial M4 SSD 64GB
WD Black 2TB
Cooler Master HAFX RC 942 KKN1
Corsair HX1050 PSU

Hate to see this happen, I love this Sabertooth board, and the last 2 rigs havent had any problems. Any ideas? I feel like Im spinning my wheels at this point.


----------



## farscaper

Hello everyone!

I'm going to take a stab on building a new gaming rig, I've been out of touch with building rigs, my last rig i built was an intel , i have the GA - 81865gme775 -rh rev2 with a core 2 duo e7200 ./ And now i'm going to build an AMD machine. / I would like any input regarding my AMD build for gaming(MMO's). My budget probably around 500 bucks. So far...

I have the Asus sabertooth 990fx

As for a case i'm looking at - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139001 if anyone can recommend a less expensive but equal case please do.

For Cpu im looking at the http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819106010 or http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103727

Cpu cooling im looking at http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181019&Tpk=Corsair%20H70 i've never done water cooling.

Memory i'm looking at http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231460

Power supply - I'm not to sure about the power supply, any ideas?

video card i'm looking at http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130595

Hard drive, - i have a 1Tb Seagate 7200 rpm.

OS - win7 Ultimate.

Monitor i have a samsung 19 inch, widescreen display - VGA + DVI.

All this will probably go over my budget,/ so any recommendations+ input i would appreciate.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farscaper*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> I'm going to take a stab on building a new gaming rig, I've been out of touch with building rigs, my last rig i built was an intel , i have the GA - 81865gme775 -rh rev2 with a core 2 duo e7200 ./ And now i'm going to build an AMD machine. / I would like any input regarding my AMD build for gaming(MMO's). My budget probably around 500 bucks. So far...
> I have the Asus sabertooth 990fx
> As for a case i'm looking at - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139001 if anyone can recommend a less expensive but equal case please do.
> For Cpu im looking at the http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819106010 or http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103727
> Cpu cooling im looking at http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181019&Tpk=Corsair%20H70 i've never done water cooling.
> Memory i'm looking at http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231460
> Power supply - I'm not to sure about the power supply, any ideas?
> video card i'm looking at http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130595
> Hard drive, - i have a 1Tb Seagate 7200 rpm.
> OS - win7 Ultimate.
> Monitor i have a samsung 19 inch, widescreen display - VGA + DVI.
> All this will probably go over my budget,/ so any recommendations+ input i would appreciate.


I researched cases for 3 months when replacing my case last fall. It was between the 800D and Xigmatek Elysium http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811815012
Case choices must fit the user and personally I have no use for hot swap drive bays in the 800D. I also came across several owners that had to make mods to improve air flow (even running H2O). I wanted a case that would support a 360 radiator internally and not have to make mods to "make it" work. Enter the Elysium. Tons of room, excellent air flow, USB 3.0 blah blah blah. See what you think. There is also a club thread here at OCN. http://www.overclock.net/t/1042933/the-official-xigmatek-elysium-club

I saw this PSU had a coupon just the other day for $114.00 after MIR http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139010

Not saying anything either way about the H70 other than not enough cooling for me. Don't fear going under water, very typical to feel unsure before you run it for just one day. It's not rocket science and XSPC Rasa makes some great entry level kits which are expandable for future needs unlike the H series for not a lot more money. Way better cooling solution for the money spent. Save a little money on the case and apply that towards the cooling. http://www.overclock.net/t/882408/official-xspc-rasa-750-rs-rx120-240-360-kit-club

Snipers are ok, but personally I've seen better results with Ripjaw-X. Snipers seem a little to moody for liking.

Feel free to PM me if I can help answer anything more.


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djmatrix32*
> 
> should i RMA my motherboard? My audio shows that the front plugs are being used and i dont have any thing plugged into them and the back audio ports do not work.


What I would do would be to uninstall the auido drivers and reinstall them as well Id check to see if had the HD auido plug or the standered audio pluged into the board


----------



## Liranan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farscaper*
> 
> Cpu cooling im looking at http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181019&Tpk=Corsair%20H70 i've never done water cooling.


Do not get an H70 or any Corsaid AIO cooler. Get a NH D14 or a Phanteks PH-TC14PE instead, will perform much better, especially the Phanteks. I regret buying my H70 as it's sub par. If you want an AIO wait for an Eisberg.


----------



## Djmatrix32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> What I would do would be to uninstall the auido drivers and reinstall them as well Id check to see if had the HD auido plug or the standered audio pluged into the board


Have done that three times now.


----------



## Liranan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djmatrix32*
> 
> Have done that three times now.


I would recommend RMA.


----------



## grunion

My Sabertooth randomly restarts maybe once/twice a day, nothing in event viewer.
Running bone stock ATM, still does it.

Can stress it to Hades and back and it will never restart.

Any ideas, I've already reseated everything, tried different RAM, bot an ATI and NV card.


----------



## gozu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djmatrix32*
> 
> should i RMA my motherboard? My audio shows that the front plugs are being used and i dont have any thing plugged into them and the back audio ports do not work.


I did notice a setting in the Realtech Sound Manager that comes with the board. Its the option to tie both front and rear audio jacks together as a single logical audio device. If you swap that setting to the other option, to treat every jack as a seperate audio device it may free up some of those plugs. I dont have my sabertooth machine available atm, but I seem to remember the setting was in an unintuitive place, had to click around a bit to find it.


----------



## Axxess+

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> My Sabertooth randomly restarts maybe once/twice a day, nothing in event viewer.
> Running bone stock ATM, still does it.
> Can stress it to Hades and back and it will never restart.
> Any ideas, I've already reseated everything, tried different RAM, bot an ATI and NV card.


Power supply stability? Just a guess.


----------



## sunset1

@grunion:
random reboots can be very frustrating. I had them on a different board and finally traced my issues down to the power supply. Thats why this time, i actually followed the recomendations of some of the people in the power supply forum. i bought a seasonic 750x gold. Yes it was pricey and im sure there are suitable units for a lower cost but I just was thru with issues related to power supplies. It worked and i have had not one issue with my system. Possibly visit the power supply forums and they can make some suggestions for testing or make recomondations.

I also wanted to thank you for the link in your sig "site features and explanations" for what i think is a must read for anyone on ocn.
I had been looking for information on posting site features etc. but didnt know where to find this info. I will definitely rep when i get back from vacation as i have issues on my ipad when repping.

Good luck and i hope you solve your issue.
Sunset1

@djmatrix32 i dont have my board close but im thinking there is a setting to change the audio front pannel connector from ? to hd audio. As my board supported hd i tried it and had issues so i used the other setting. I dont remember what it was called. oh i think it was audio97? or similar. I have a coolermaster haf 22. I do know in the past not all audio headers were wired the same. If there is an audio forum possibly someone has more information on this.. possible issue. I dont use my front pannel connectors often and in the back i use spidif. or optitcal connection. Sorry i dont have a more definite answer
sunset1


----------



## Nospampls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> I have a new SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0. It came with BIOS 0219, it worked fine but on boot it didn't show the available options, Del, F8, etc. So I updated to the latest 0803, but now it doesn't beep on bootup. Any ideas?


I found your post with Google, searching for the same issue. I also updated from 0219 to 0803 on Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 and ... no more beep! Glad you posted your experience -- I'll stop looking for the cause (bad speaker, etc.).


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nospampls*
> 
> I found your post with Google, searching for the same issue. I also updated from 0219 to 0803 on Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 and ... no more beep! Glad you posted your experience -- I'll stop looking for the cause (bad speaker, etc.).


It's a BIOS bug, mobo works very well otherwise. I switched to BIOS version 0601, that's the most recent one that beeps.


----------



## Djmatrix32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> @grunion:
> random reboots can be very frustrating. I had them on a different board and finally traced my issues down to the power supply. Thats why this time, i actually followed the recomendations of some of the people in the power supply forum. i bought a seasonic 750x gold. Yes it was pricey and im sure there are suitable units for a lower cost but I just was thru with issues related to power supplies. It worked and i have had not one issue with my system. Possibly visit the power supply forums and they can make some suggestions for testing or make recomondations.
> I also wanted to thank you for the link in your sig "site features and explanations" for what i think is a must read for anyone on ocn.
> I had been looking for information on posting site features etc. but didnt know where to find this info. I will definitely rep when i get back from vacation as i have issues on my ipad when repping.
> Good luck and i hope you solve your issue.
> Sunset1
> @djmatrix32 i dont have my board close but im thinking there is a setting to change the audio front pannel connector from ? to hd audio. As my board supported hd i tried it and had issues so i used the other setting. I dont remember what it was called. oh i think it was audio97? or similar. I have a coolermaster haf 22. I do know in the past not all audio headers were wired the same. If there is an audio forum possibly someone has more information on this.. possible issue. I dont use my front pannel connectors often and in the back i use spidif. or optitcal connection. Sorry i dont have a more definite answer
> sunset1


I have changed the front connector to HD audio still nothing slows up when I plug some thing in.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gozu*
> 
> I did notice a setting in the Realtech Sound Manager that comes with the board. Its the option to tie both front and rear audio jacks together as a single logical audio device. If you swap that setting to the other option, to treat every jack as a seperate audio device it may free up some of those plugs. I dont have my sabertooth machine available atm, but I seem to remember the setting was in an unintuitive place, had to click around a bit to find it.


I have also does this no luck at all. I wonder why it just went out like that I even took the motherboared out to see if it was my case still did not work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> I would recommend RMA.


[/quote]Do you think its worth RMA? I jsut bought a Sound Blaster Recon3D for $70($20 0ff code). Do you think this will lead to more issue later on down the road?


----------



## infini

I think that i haven't installed properly the SATA 3 drivers. Can someone confirm this by the photo i attach? How does the SATA 3 appears in device manager?


----------



## Liranan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djmatrix32*
> 
> Do you think its worth RMA? I jsut bought a Sound Blaster Recon3D for $70($20 0ff code). Do you think this will lead to more issue later on down the road?


Are you still having problems after installing that Recon3D?


----------



## Djmatrix32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> Are you still having problems after installing that Recon3D?


The Recon3D will be there the 4th so we will see. Just glad I have a TV as my monitor I am using HDMI for sound.


----------



## infini

Any help?


----------



## Speedy-j

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infini*
> 
> I think that i haven't installed properly the SATA 3 drivers. Can someone confirm this by the photo i attach? How does the SATA 3 appears in device manager?


Its Okay nothing is wrong there.


----------



## Norelec

Hi there need a little help as i am going to be installing a water cooling system into my PC but want this issue sorted first so any help would be great
Every time i boot my system it goes through the post into windows and the seems to power every thing down fans,lights and HDD's then they all come back on.
I have no idea why it does it the PSU came out of my old system and is around 12mths old

Not to sure why it doing what it is every thing was fine when it was @ 4Ghz but now is back to Stock clock it is playing up i think it is the PSU but would like some other OP's

system:
Pehnom II 955BE Stock clock was @ 4ghz but house gets to hot now summer is on it's way (upgrading to FX-8150) soon
16Gb AMD entertainment DDR3 1600Mhz
2x ASUS GTX 550Ti (upgrading to GTX670) soon
60Gb SSD
2x 500Gb HDD
Antec Kulhar 620 with 2x Noctua NF-F12 fans
2X 120mm case fans
PSU Corsair GX650W


----------



## Krusher33

Does it do it if you stress test the system? (Prime95 for example)


----------



## bernardblack

FX8150 on Sabertooth @ 1.38v (120% CPU current control, 110% CPU/NB current control, CPU power phase control set to Extreme) = 4.63ghz @1800mhz DDR

These settings work for me. For some reason, if I raise any of the Load Line Calibrations to anything other than Auto/ regular, it locks my system up, and yet many are reporting to use Extreme here.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bernardblack*
> 
> FX8150 on Sabertooth @ 1.38v (120% CPU current control, 110% CPU/NB current control, CPU power phase control set to Extreme) = 4.63ghz @1800mhz DDR
> These settings work for me. For some reason, if I raise any of the Load Line Calibrations to anything other than Auto/ regular, it locks my system up, and yet many are reporting to use Extreme here.


i have the same settings like you... except for the vcore... i was on 1.4375v on bios... i think i was killing it slowly


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bernardblack*
> 
> FX8150 on Sabertooth @ 1.38v (120% CPU current control, 110% CPU/NB current control, CPU power phase control set to Extreme) = 4.63ghz @1800mhz DDR
> 
> These settings work for me. For some reason, if I raise any of the Load Line Calibrations to anything other than Auto/ regular, it locks my system up, and yet many are reporting to use Extreme here.


Only need to adjust LLC if you need to tweak system due to instability. So if it was working, then don't touch.

And it's not always just use "extreme". Should only adjust it depending on needs after watching the 12v line and how much it fluctuates.


----------



## Djmatrix32

I requested a RMA now I am having different issues.


----------



## sunset1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Norelec*
> 
> Hi there need a little help as i am going to be installing a water cooling system into my PC but want this issue sorted first so any help would be great
> Every time i boot my system it goes through the post into windows and the seems to power every thing down fans,lights and HDD's then they all come back on.
> I have no idea why it does it the PSU came out of my old system and is around 12mths old
> Not to sure why it doing what it is every thing was fine when it was @ 4Ghz but now is back to Stock clock it is playing up i think it is the PSU but would like some other OP's
> system:
> Pehnom II 955BE Stock clock was @ 4ghz but house gets to hot now summer is on it's way (upgrading to FX-8150) soon
> 16Gb AMD entertainment DDR3 1600Mhz
> 2x ASUS GTX 550Ti (upgrading to GTX670) soon
> 60Gb SSD
> 2x 500Gb HDD
> Antec Kulhar 620 with 2x Noctua NF-F12 fans
> 2X 120mm case fans
> PSU Corsair GX650W


I hope this doesnt post twice as it crashed the first time... only while I post in these forums...
I would try and borrow or grab a power supply with good voltage regulation to verify if its the power supply or not. I understand your reasons for waiting. If you upgrade, the power supply forums are great. Or just ask these guys which they prefer on the 8150 and your upgraded specs.

2nd will your case fit a 240 rad? One possible option is to upgrade the processor clc and use the current 620 with the gpu mod on the new card. That way it will be used and people have had great success cooling their video cards with them while really cutting down the noise. Just an idea.
two people trip-t and chmodlabs are selling brackets to mount them on the cards ( i dont remember if the 670 requires a shim for the gpu or not.
On the cpu there are some cool new clc units that are supposed to hit the shelves soon. Eisberg by coolermaster $$$ which allows upgrades
coolit 320mm version, and i think the h100 is getting a upgrade also.

Hope this helps.
Sunset1


----------



## mezmenir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Norelec*
> 
> Hi there need a little help as i am going to be installing a water cooling system into my PC but want this issue sorted first so any help would be great
> Every time i boot my system it goes through the post into windows and the seems to power every thing down fans,lights and HDD's then they all come back on.
> I have no idea why it does it the PSU came out of my old system and is around 12mths old
> Not to sure why it doing what it is every thing was fine when it was @ 4Ghz but now is back to Stock clock it is playing up i think it is the PSU but would like some other OP's
> system:
> Pehnom II 955BE Stock clock was @ 4ghz but house gets to hot now summer is on it's way (upgrading to FX-8150) soon
> 16Gb AMD entertainment DDR3 1600Mhz
> 2x ASUS GTX 550Ti (upgrading to GTX670) soon
> 60Gb SSD
> 2x 500Gb HDD
> Antec Kulhar 620 with 2x Noctua NF-F12 fans
> 2X 120mm case fans
> PSU Corsair GX650W


Why an FX8150? If you wait a few weeks for the FX8350 to come out, you'll end up a much happier shopper.


----------



## shampoo911

i was wondering... if i pop another pair of rams (of the same brand/timings/blahblah) making a total of four 4gb sticks, will i be able to achieve the same timings?? i.e.: 2200mhz @9-11-10-24 1T


----------



## Walking Dude

okay...starting to put my biuld together. will be using the 8150 for now, then moving on to the pile driver. but been reading thru some of the posts here, and see that many users are having issues with the bios on this board. I bought this board, the 8150, and the switch back in feb. but with my mom passing end of march, and me being diagnosed with terminal multiple myeloma a month later, and dealing with all that, finally putting this bad boy together. what issues will i be running into, once i get it put together?

will be running two raedon 6950 in crossfire, with the cosair 1200 psu. 16 gigs of dominator platinum in a switch 810.

any help will sure be appreciated!

tia

wd


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> i was wondering... if i pop another pair of rams (of the same brand/timings/blahblah) making a total of four 4gb sticks, will i be able to achieve the same timings?? i.e.: 2200mhz @9-11-10-24 1T


It's a crap shoot of sorts. Just depend on the chips. Some times they play well together, other times... I think you understand. It's the chance you take when doubling Dram rather than going with a matched kit.
If those are stock timings it's a maybe. Usually the more Dram you have the looser they get for stability but if they are stock it's 60/40 in your favor things will be fine. No promises.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walking Dude*
> 
> okay...starting to put my biuld together. will be using the 8150 for now, then moving on to the pile driver. but been reading thru some of the posts here, and see that many users are having issues with the bios on this board. I bought this board, the 8150, and the switch back in feb. but with my mom passing end of march, and me being diagnosed with terminal multiple myeloma a month later, and dealing with all that, finally putting this bad boy together. what issues will i be running into, once i get it put together?
> 
> will be running two raedon 6950 in crossfire, with the cosair 1200 psu. 16 gigs of dominator platinum in a switch 810.
> 
> any help will sure be appreciated!
> 
> tia
> 
> wd


I would start simple. Don't do both 6950's right off the bat.

Some folks were needing to upgrade the BIOS because it didn't support the CPU. You can only try to see if you need to as well at the moment. Unless it's a brand new board?


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> It's a crap shoot of sorts. Just depend on the chips. Some times they play well together, other times... I think you understand. It's the chance you take when doubling Dram rather than going with a matched kit.
> If those are stock timings it's a maybe. Usually the more Dram you have the looser they get for stability but if they are stock it's 60/40 in your favor things will be fine. No promises.


i have a pair of GSKILL RIPJAWS X 2133 CAS9... would another pair be cool?


----------



## mezmenir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> i have a pair of GSKILL RIPJAWS X 2133 CAS9... would another pair be cool?


Depends mostly on your processor, not the DIMMs. AMD has been known to not be so friendly with high density, or high dimm counts. (Disregarding Operton here).


----------



## Liranan

My Sabertooth arrived and went straight into my wife's PC because she couldn't watch her series 24/7, so I am still without a Sabertooth or working motherboard.


----------



## Norelec

No it's fine running Prime95 over 24hrs just has me stumped


----------



## Norelec

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mezmenir*
> 
> Why an FX8150? If you wait a few weeks for the FX8350 to come out, you'll end up a much happier shopper.


Thanx man. have been doing other things and didn't think they where that close so yeah i will wait and see what the reviews and that say and maybe hold off untill the price settles down.


----------



## Walking Dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I would start simple. Don't do both 6950's right off the bat.
> Some folks were needing to upgrade the BIOS because it didn't support the CPU. You can only try to see if you need to as well at the moment. Unless it's a brand new board?


brand new board in feb. never has been fired up. why just one vid card? and is rev. 1.01


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mezmenir*
> 
> Depends mostly on your processor, not the DIMMs. AMD has been known to not be so friendly with high density, or high dimm counts. (Disregarding Operton here).


i currently have a 8150... and aiming for a 8350... but i will get the new rams as soon as the 8350 is out... will it handle the 16gb at 2133mhz?


----------



## mezmenir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> i currently have a 8150... and aiming for a 8350... but i will get the new rams as soon as the 8350 is out... will it handle the 16gb at 2133mhz?


Depends on the chip. Silicon lottery here concerning just how hard you can push the IMC. Until we see the chip, there's no telling what the "common estimate" is, like possible with current chips.


----------



## sunset1

@walkingdude
most of the issues the guys had were in the beginning before the fx- bios was out. See if the box for your motherboard has a approx 2x2 sticker in the upper righthand corner of the box. there should be 3 total stickers. The one on the left says fx firmware ready processors. In red. I have verson 1.1 and it came fx ready. So you should be in the clear.
If you are using a ssd install it by itself to load the os. Then add the hard drive.
Also post your bios version.

I usually assemble the motherboard outside the case and test components as its easier to see if everything is connected and eliminates any possible case issues.
I install processor, memory, heatsink, and vid card. Just the primary components to test the mobo. If it boots up then I install motherboard with cpu memory and sometimes cooler already installed.

Btw i had 0 issues with my board. If there are no issues booting you can do a safe easy bios update in windows later. Since there are so many different brands and types of hardware some bios's work better for overclocking than others depending on the parts.

Btw its good to see you back. I find computers are a great way of getting my mind a break from everyday life.

even tho i havent done it yet, take the time to fill out the rigbuilder so everyone knows what hardware you have when you post. Saves a lot of questions. I think ill do that today.








Sunset1


----------



## Walking Dude

thankx for the info.

Yeah, already did rigbuilder. Its in my sig. line

and my box is fx firmware ready!


----------



## sunset1

Nice rig bud. that should keep you busy for a bit.
sunset1


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

thats the sticker


----------



## Djmatrix32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> thats the sticker


What revision box is this on? I just RMA'D my Sabertoother dead Ram slots .


----------



## SmokeyMcBong

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djmatrix32*
> 
> What revision box is this on? I just RMA'D my Sabertoother dead Ram slots .


Hi mate, I've just had my RMA replacement due to the same 'dead RAM slots' problem too.
This seemed to have happened all of a sudden, all slots were working correctly for about 3 months then suddenly none of them worked at all. The board would hang on boot with just the DRAM led/MEM OK light constantly on. no matter how many times I tried different variations with RAM sticks and DIMM slots, also the assisted safe boot via the MEMok button did not help this situation.... time to RMA.....

RMA'd the board a week ago, courier came to collect the half dead board the next morning at 9am, what I was extra surprised to see was the NEW replacement board was delivered the day after that!









[just to note that this RMA case was dealt with directly by the online retailer and not ASUS, as I was still in a 'grace period' with the retailer themselves]

I hope your replacement comes quick my friend, you never know, they could ****-up the stock and you 'may' get a rev 2.0 board, you never know mate









.


----------



## SmokeyMcBong

Also can I be added to the club please.....

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2535696



thanks mate


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djmatrix32*
> 
> What revision box is this on? I just RMA'D my Sabertoother dead Ram slots .


umm this was v1.1


----------



## Walking Dude

hope i wont have dead ram slots issues. Fingers crossed!


----------



## Djmatrix32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokeyMcBong*
> 
> Hi mate, I've just had my RMA replacement due to the same 'dead RAM slots' problem too.
> This seemed to have happened all of a sudden, all slots were working correctly for about 3 months then suddenly none of them worked at all. The board would hang on boot with just the DRAM led/MEM OK light constantly on. no matter how many times I tried different variations with RAM sticks and DIMM slots, also the assisted safe boot via the MEMok button did not help this situation.... time to RMA.....
> RMA'd the board a week ago, courier came to collect the half dead board the next morning at 9am, what I was extra surprised to see was the NEW replacement board was delivered the day after that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [just to note that this RMA case was dealt with directly by the online retailer and not ASUS, as I was still in a 'grace period' with the retailer themselves]
> I hope your replacement comes quick my friend, you never know, they could ****-up the stock and you 'may' get a rev 2.0 board, you never know mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I bought the R2.0 from newegg and that is who I am RMAing through is newegg. I have never RMA'D to newegg before so I am a little scared. Just glad I am not the only one who has had this issue.


----------



## sunset1

I have found newegg to have very good customer service. Just be nice. It goes a long way. I sent my themaltake water 2.0 pro back it got credited and they sent me out a new one. They were very nice about it but then so was i.


----------



## gozu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gozu*
> 
> Im currently building my third Sabertooth 990FX rig, and this one seems to be having a strange issue.
> Whenever I shut down the box, right before the system clicks off, the red CPU LED comes on and the fans spin up to maximum. This only happens during shutdown, everything posts just fine on startup. Theres currently no overclock in place since the problem started right out of the box, and its using the 1304 BIOS.
> To Diagnose the problem, I have done the following:
> Replaced the CPU with a new one
> Replaced the motherboard with a new one
> Swapped the RAM from another machine that works
> Took out the crossfire setup and left a single card in
> Disconnected the chassis fans from the board and connected them directly to the PSU
> Double, then Triple checked all of the power connections (CPU, Mobo, PCI etc)
> Reseated every component
> Checked all the standoffs and also checked for possible grounding at the backplate
> Reflashed the 1304 BIOS just in case
> Checked all the temperatures (cpu hangs around 34 - 36 idle, 47 - 50 during 1 hour occt stress test)
> Voltages appear to match those in the BIOS according to the ASUS monitor
> Disconnected the SSD and the HD (still happens regardless if a bootable drive exists)
> The machine runs great when its on, and shuts down fine up to the point where you would expect the system to click off, but then it doesnt, and the red led turns on and the system sits there blowing air indefinitly. Hitting the power button while its in this state will turn the system back on, causing the led to turn off and the fans go back to normal speeds.
> My current hunch is that there is a problem with the PSU, since that is the only common component now, but if that were the case youd expect to see problems while the system was under load. The voltages under load seem solid.
> Called ASUS tech support, they forwarded me to Tier 2 support where I waited on hold for 3 hours before giving up.
> I have the rig setup under my profile, but to summarize:
> Sabertooth 990FX Rev 1
> FX-8150 - 3.6Ghz
> G.SKILL Sniper Series 8GB
> 2x Radeon HD 6950
> Crucial M4 SSD 64GB
> WD Black 2TB
> Cooler Master HAFX RC 942 KKN1
> Corsair HX1050 PSU
> Hate to see this happen, I love this Sabertooth board, and the last 2 rigs havent had any problems. Any ideas? I feel like Im spinning my wheels at this point.


turns out it was the power supply. Figures it would be the one thing I thought for sure was working.


----------



## sunset1

isnt that thw way it always is ... im glad you solved it. power supply issues are not the easiset to solve these days.

Edit i follow this thread for deals on ocn and someone just posted this refurb. for 69.99
http://www.directron.com/t1kwsrb.html
Im thinking of getting one for a backup or tester unit. Or check in the deals section of the forums.
sunset1


----------



## Ghost12

Figure this is the place to ask this question

What is the thermal limit or safe operating temperatures of the vcore1/vrm part of the sabertooth 990fx

or what would be considered to be within normal limits towards the upper of the scale

Thanks in advance


----------



## yching07

I cant find the asus sabertooth 990fx bios updates anymore, the old page is not even on asus.com

All the have right now is their Asus sabertooth 990FX R2.0, can I install the drivers and the bios update from this motherboard even if mine is not a R2.0?


----------



## sunset1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yching07*
> 
> I cant find the asus sabertooth 990fx bios updates anymore, the old page is not even on asus.com
> All the have right now is their Asus sabertooth 990FX R2.0, can I install the drivers and the bios update from this motherboard even if mine is not a R2.0?


http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#download
i just searched google for sabertooth 990fx took me right to the page. :> you have to enter your os.


----------



## yching07

That is dam pretty weird, my google takes me to a ca.asus.com instead of the www.asus.com and it was working few days ago, now the ca.asus.com url is no longer working, thats pretty weird.

Thanks for the link.

I guess it will not be recommended to download the bios from R2.0 right? im so curious


----------



## sunset1

might have been a sys admin working on the servers right when you logged in.
I would stick to the 1.x but thats me.


----------



## Walking Dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yching07*
> 
> I guess it will not be recommended to download the bios from R2.0 right? im so curious


Me Too!


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yching07*
> 
> That is dam pretty weird, my google takes me to a ca.asus.com instead of the www.asus.com and it was working few days ago, now the ca.asus.com url is no longer working, thats pretty weird.
> Thanks for the link.
> I guess it will not be recommended to download the bios from R2.0 right? im so curious


That is absolutely correct.

If you go to the Asus website and select downloads, it leads to 2 different listings for the Sabertooth 990 FX, and Sabertooth 990 FX R 2.0. The 2.0 has a different SATA secondary controller, different version Realtek LAN, no 1394, more USB 3.0 and eSATA ports and a USB BIOS flashback button on the back I/O panel.

It is a different mobo, therefore has a different BIOS.


----------



## Walking Dude

poop now i have to buy a new mobo when piledriver comes out.


----------



## Cheezman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walking Dude*
> 
> poop now i have to buy a new mobo when piledriver comes out.


They may release an update after Piledriver launches. They probably are going to need the CPU's in hand before they can write a new bios for them. It's only a short wait, now.


----------



## Walking Dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cheezman*
> 
> They may release an update after Piledriver launches. They probably are going to need the CPU's in hand before they can write a new bios for them. It's only a short wait, now.


but my board is still only rev 1.1


----------



## sunset1

Hopefully that wont be an issue. Asus is a big company im sure they have access to the hardware before it comes out officially. One of the reasons i went with asus is their updated drives to support older boards when possible. However with new technology comes changes to specifications.
I dont want to get into a what if senario but they have good track record.


----------



## Ghost12

I just cannot see any way that sabertooth revision 1 will not support piledriver. Am3+ not to support would be unrealistic. They may not make bios flashes for the am3 anymore but am3+ will definitely support it with updates.


----------



## The Sandman

Piledriver will be on AM3+ platform!.

http://www.theinquirer.net/inquirer/news/2208525/amd-sticks-with-socket-am3-for-steamroller


----------



## shampoo911

ok so i was checking the sabertooth 990fx downloads site... and i noticed that a new bios was released...

Bios version 1503

cant manage to link to the site...

just for you to check out... and i was checking some posts, for people asking if the asus people will release a piledriver ready bios... it was not noted in this new version... i will download it tomorrow and post my results


----------



## sunset1

here is the link for asus sabertooth you have to input your os.
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#download


----------



## Vlackrs

New bios guys 1503


----------



## Robnof

Is this the piledriver update?


----------



## Nhb93

If I used the optical audio out on the board, could I get 5.1 channel output from my receiver? I'd love to know before I go out and get an optical cable.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nhb93*
> 
> If I used the optical audio out on the board, could I get 5.1 channel output from my receiver? I'd love to know before I go out and get an optical cable.


Yes.


----------



## sunset1

newegg has them pretty cheap i just bought a longet one. Get one with the adpater as it comes in handy sometimes. :>


----------



## Fearnot

Hi Overclock.net users thanks for the huge thread I'm sure I won't be able to go through it all to address my problems I'm having, but I'll try to be descriptive as possible.

I got my Sabertooth 990fx about two months ago and have had recurring bsod STOP: 0x0000001A it used to happen once a week but I've been having it happen a few times day lately. When the error happens my bios seems to auto clock new settings:

Memory Frequency
Auto
DDR3-864 Mhz
DDR3-1151 Mhz
DDR3-1439 Mhz
DDR3-1728 Mhz
DDR3-2015 Mhz
DDR3-2303 Mhz
DDR3-2592 Mhz

And gives a CPU fan speed that switches from N/A to 30,000

After a reset the bios will normally return to the standard frequencies and fan speeds.

My other problem is often when booting the PC up from a shut down I will be brought to a American Megatrends splash screen reading a cpu fan error saying the fan is not working (and after taking the side case off the cpu fan is running fine even though the screen says it is not.) I have tried the other cpu header for the fan but it hadn't stopped the problem.

I've tried a 500w and 850w Psu and have the problem with different Psu's and I have tried 3 different brands of ram from Patriot then G.Skill then Corsair and the problems are still there.

My Bios is 1304 my set up currently is a Sabertooth 990fx/ corsair vengeance 2 x 4GB 1600mhz / sapphire 7950 vapor x / amd fx-4100 / windows 7 64bit / ocz 850w gold psu.

I have nothing overclocked currently and I'm running everything at stock settings till I can get this addressed. If I'm forgetting to list anything let me know and thanks for your time reading this.


----------



## sunset1

I had some ideas but i figured id let the experts on windows handle this one.
check this site out. I googled your stop:xxxxxxxxx and this was one of the links.
http://www.sevenforums.com/crashes-debugging/63826-bluescreen-0x0000001a-pls-help.html
hope this helps.
it said it was a memory management error on one of the posts.
sunset1

edit: It also said it could be malware and gave links for 3 free utilities to check memory , harddrive and malware.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fearnot*
> 
> Hi Overclock.net users thanks for the huge thread I'm sure I won't be able to go through it all to address my problems I'm having, but I'll try to be descriptive as possible.
> I got my Sabertooth 990fx about two months ago and have had recurring bsod STOP: 0x0000001A it used to happen once a week but I've been having it happen a few times day lately. When the error happens my bios seems to auto clock new settings:
> Memory Frequency
> Auto
> DDR3-864 Mhz
> DDR3-1151 Mhz
> DDR3-1439 Mhz
> DDR3-1728 Mhz
> DDR3-2015 Mhz
> DDR3-2303 Mhz
> DDR3-2592 Mhz
> And gives a CPU fan speed that switches from N/A to 30,000
> After a reset the bios will normally return to the standard frequencies and fan speeds.
> My other problem is often when booting the PC up from a shut down I will be brought to a American Megatrends splash screen reading a cpu fan error saying the fan is not working (and after taking the side case off the cpu fan is running fine even though the screen says it is not.) I have tried the other cpu header for the fan but it hadn't stopped the problem.
> I've tried a 500w and 850w Psu and have the problem with different Psu's and I have tried 3 different brands of ram from Patriot then G.Skill then Corsair and the problems are still there.
> My Bios is 1304 my set up currently is a Sabertooth 990fx/ corsair vengeance 2 x 4GB 1600mhz / sapphire 7950 vapor x / amd fx-4100 / windows 7 64bit / ocz 850w gold psu.
> I have nothing overclocked currently and I'm running everything at stock settings till I can get this addressed. If I'm forgetting to list anything let me know and thanks for your time reading this.


maybe the mobo is under/overvolting the rams... set the default values manually (including frequency, timings and voltages)

and for the fans issue, in the MONITOR tab of the ADVANCED MODE on the bios, you can adjust everything regarding the fans...


----------



## sunset1

good point. :>


----------



## Fearnot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> I had some ideas but i figured id let the experts on windows handle this one.
> check this site out. I googled your stop:xxxxxxxxx and this was one of the links.
> http://www.sevenforums.com/crashes-debugging/63826-bluescreen-0x0000001a-pls-help.html
> hope this helps.
> it said it was a memory management error on one of the posts.
> sunset1
> edit: It also said it could be malware and gave links for 3 free utilities to check memory , harddrive and malware.


I have norton antivirus so I'm pretty sure it isn't a malware issue. I ran the memtest for just 1 pass with the odd memory frequency reading and it had 30,000 errors. I'll do the overnight on default ram values and see what turns up.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> maybe the mobo is under/overvolting the rams... set the default values manually (including frequency, timings and voltages)
> and for the fans issue, in the MONITOR tab of the ADVANCED MODE on the bios, you can adjust everything regarding the fans...


Just wanted to clear up one thing I know how to set the fan speeds and adjust them. My problem with the fan speeds is random readings of the cpu fan reporting it is not running when it is and it's rpm readings in thermal radar and also bios jumping from anywhere from n/a to 30,000 (Just on the cpu fan not the chassis.) Which also sometimes causes a problem when I turn the PC on from shutdown and I'm brought to a splash screen saying the cpu fan is not running.

Thanks for the replies.


----------



## SgtHawker

@fearnot, try putting the cpu fan on another header so you know it can keep the cpu cool and hook another fan to the cpu header. See what happens, if you get fan errors on the header the actual cpu fan is hooked to now, it looks like a broken wire or poor connector on the cpu fan. If the cpu header still reads an error with the extra fan, it looks like the mobo fan header has an issue.


----------



## Ghost12

Anyone flashed the new bios as yet? got any feedback regards stability or anything interesting?

Thanks


----------



## Axxess+

Everytime I reboot my computer it will not POST, nothing on screen, but everything is turned on. If I shut it down and boot it back up, it tells me my overclocking has failed, points me to the BIOS to change it, but at this point I just save and exit and it works. wut?


----------



## DIJRP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> Anyone flashed the new bios as yet? got any feedback regards stability or anything interesting?
> Thanks


works great, stable.









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2542928

main impression is that temps are 1/3 degrees lower than 1304; these are my temps after 1h and half of CSGO.


online photo storage


----------



## sunset1

@axxess+ btw nice system looks like you did it right.
I use the auto overclock feature in the bios. Before this upgrade I havent realy tried to overclock a machine since the celery 300a @450 :>
I would post your settings and methodology ( major ones ) in here so the guys can look at them and get specifics on the best way to overclock this board and chip.
You can just edit your post with the settings . At the same time possibly they can explain why ckicking ok lets it stay.

Good luck
Sunset1


----------



## Axxess+

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> @axxess+ btw nice system looks like you did it right.
> I use the auto overclock feature in the bios. Before this upgrade I havent realy tried to overclock a machine since the celery 300a @450 :>
> I would post your settings and methodology ( major ones ) in here so the guys can look at them and get specifics on the best way to overclock this board and chip.
> You can just edit your post with the settings . At the same time possibly they can explain why ckicking ok lets it stay.
> Good luck
> Sunset1


Well, it took a lot of try/error, but since I had this CPU I had unlocked it(with Gigabyte before) using the Core Unlocker. I upp'd the CPU multiplier to 17.5, keeping the FSB stock, and upping the voltage to 1.36V, with Ultra High LLC, so it can go up to 1.415V during load, with nice temps of 51C max. For the northbridge, same concept, upp'd it to 2800Mhz, as it wouldn't post @ 3Ghz no matter the voltage, and I set the voltage to 1.35V with Auto LLC. Everything is fine and dandy for those.

To OC my RAM, I simply lowered my timings until it wouldn't boot/BSOD while keeping the voltage @ 1.65V. Everything is Prime95 stable (24hrs).
I usually BOINC all the time I'm not using my computer, and my computer is on 24/7, so about 16 hours of BOINC everyday.


----------



## Fearnot

Follow up on what I've tried, I couldn't get an overnight memtest without errors I tried out both ram sticks in DIMM A2 and couldn't get into windows 9 out of 10 times. I ran Memtest separately on each stick and got errors on both. I tried the ram on my brothers gigabyte/fx computer and the ram tested fine. I tried the ram speeds at the 1600mhz 9-9-9-24 and at the Mem OK settings.

On the cpu fan error problem I tried SgtHawkers idea and the cpu fan ran fine without any errors on the chassis fan header.

I plugged a 3 pin fan into my cpu header and got zero errors or problems, but when I plugged a 4 pin fan into the cpu header I got the not running error or the speeds jumping all over the place even though the fan is staying at a steady rpm.

So what do you guys think? Do I need to Rma my board?


----------



## Ghost12

My board will not read the bios rom from usb. Before the obvious questions I have flashed it before, to 1304, the usb is ntfs and I have tried 2 different ones. When I go into the flash utility and click to the rom on usb it says not a ufi bios file. It is from the asus site and another member posted me his version of the new one in a pm. I have loaded optimised defaults and just gone through the clear cmos routine to see if that would help. I have had problems with this board and bios before, ie, when I bought it I was using windows 8 preview on my previous board so wanted it on this one. It would not install win 8 out of the box, after bios flash to the windows 8 64 1304 it still wouldn't install the os. After flash to 1304 win 7 64 bit I installed win 7 and followed the upgrade to win 8 preview. That was the only way could install win 8. If I install a fresh copy now though it installs straight away on the current bios. Im at a loss, is my board faulty?

Thanks in advance


----------



## Astrogoth

The new Sabertooth BIOS rocks. I'm now able to run my 8150 at 4.6Ghz on 1.406V CPU / 1.156 NB / 1.306 DRAM. That's 60C on room air with all cores wide open using AIDA64, so that's max without a better cooler.

Not a bad bump.


----------



## azcrazy

Hi.
I just got the board running today , it has the 1304 bios.

My question, can it unlock the rest of cores of the 960t I got with it?


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fearnot*
> 
> On the cpu fan error problem I tried SgtHawkers idea and the cpu fan ran fine without any errors on the chassis fan header.
> I plugged a 3 pin fan into my cpu header and got zero errors or problems, but when I plugged a 4 pin fan into the cpu header I got the not running error or the speeds jumping all over the place even though the fan is staying at a steady rpm.
> So what do you guys think? Do I need to Rma my board?


Was the 4 pin you plugged into the cpu header a different 4 pin fan, or your original cpu cooler fan? If it was a different fan, and the same type read errors occurred, I would suggest RMA.


----------



## reaperUK

@ Azcrazy you maybe one of the lucky ones to get it to unlock, i myself have it but it wont unlock lol, i have mine running @4gig just by using the multiplier and it never goes over 40degs underload.
Also im running on the 0901 bios atm because whenever i use the newer bios my system becomes unstable.
Its a gr8 chip even if it doesnt unlock


----------



## sunset1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> My board will not read the bios rom from usb. Before the obvious questions I have flashed it before, to 1304, the usb is ntfs and I have tried 2 different ones. When I go into the flash utility and click to the rom on usb it says not a ufi bios file. It is from the asus site and another member posted me his version of the new one in a pm. I have loaded optimised defaults and just gone through the clear cmos routine to see if that would help. I have had problems with this board and bios before, ie, when I bought it I was using windows 8 preview on my previous board so wanted it on this one. It would not install win 8 out of the box, after bios flash to the windows 8 64 1304 it still wouldn't install the os. After flash to 1304 win 7 64 bit I installed win 7 and followed the upgrade to win 8 preview. That was the only way could install win 8. If I install a fresh copy now though it installs straight away on the current bios. Im at a loss, is my board faulty?
> Thanks in advance


I thought you had to have the flash drive formatted in fat 32 or 16 because its a dos program.
read this..

http://support.asus.com/documents/detail.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=SABERTOOTH%20990FX&p=1&s=24&os=&hashedid=H9GanpgqHG8yN8yQ&no=1704


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> I thought you had to have the flash drive formatted in fat 32 or 16 because its a dos program.
> read this..
> http://support.asus.com/documents/detail.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=SABERTOOTH%20990FX&p=1&s=24&os=&hashedid=H9GanpgqHG8yN8yQ&no=1704


Yes needed fat 32. Completed thanks


----------



## shampoo911

ok gentlemen... here's the deal... i want to reduce temps on my FX-8150 with my Sabertooth 990FX... here's a CPU-Z pic with my system specs...



Bios values are:

CPU: 1.4375v with 100% LLC
CPU/NB: stock with AUTO LLC
RAM: 1.65v (default)

i read that i can have lower vcore with this new bios (the new 1503 bios)... and i mean low vcore as: 4.7ghz with 1.39v or something like that...

my question is:

*WITH MY CURRENT SETUP, IF I REDUCE SOME VCORE, WIIL I STILL GET THE SAME CLOCKS?* (i dont know if CPU/NB and CPU voltages are like holding hands)


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> ok gentlemen... here's the deal... i want to reduce temps on my FX-8150 with my Sabertooth 990FX... here's a CPU-Z pic with my system specs...
> 
> Bios values are:
> CPU: 1.4375v with 100% LLC
> CPU/NB: stock with AUTO LLC
> RAM: 1.65v (default)
> i read that i can have lower vcore with this new bios (the new 1503 bios)... and i mean low vcore as: 4.7ghz with 1.39v or something like that...
> my question is:
> *WITH MY CURRENT SETUP, IF I REDUCE SOME VCORE, WIIL I STILL GET THE SAME CLOCKS?* (i dont know if CPU/NB and CPU voltages are like holding hands)


I don't need any less vcore with the new bios but I need less llc. Above 4.6 before the bios needed extreme and now for 4.7 on same volts 1.46 only need high. less llc = less temps for me


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azcrazy*
> 
> Hi.
> I just got the board running today , it has the 1304 bios.
> My question, can it unlock the rest of cores of the 960t I got with it?


I am still running 803.
I tried some of the newer ones but couldn't get a good stable OC.
The newer bios (IMO) are more for BD.

-dimwit-


----------



## azcrazy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> I am still running 803.
> I tried some of the newer ones but couldn't get a good stable OC.
> The newer bios (IMO) are more for BD.
> -dimwit-


Oh I see thanks Jason, I got them unlock and is sitting @3.5GHZ on 6 cores , I'll push it more once my block shows up
















Cause stock HS sucks is sitting at 40ºC at idle with 1.38V, I havent stress test yet


----------



## gatornation240

Time to stop lurking and start posting







Love this forum, tons of useful info in here that helped me get this thing running with no issues ( I had 3 diffrent BSOD + ati driver issues) I've got 16 fans + a dominator cooling her. Never seen my cpu/vcore above 45 (prime, aida, cinabench, heavenbench, etc.) I foresee a long relationship with this board. Thanks again gurus for all the info you guys share. anyone running the new bios yet? 1304 is fine for me so far
ambient temp:24C* ~7/16 fans @100%~


----------



## Speedy-j

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> ok gentlemen... here's the deal... i want to reduce temps on my FX-8150 with my Sabertooth 990FX... here's a CPU-Z pic with my system specs...
> 
> Bios values are:
> CPU: 1.4375v with 100% LLC
> CPU/NB: stock with AUTO LLC
> RAM: 1.65v (default)
> i read that i can have lower vcore with this new bios (the new 1503 bios)... and i mean low vcore as: 4.7ghz with 1.39v or something like that...
> my question is:
> *WITH MY CURRENT SETUP, IF I REDUCE SOME VCORE, WIIL I STILL GET THE SAME CLOCKS?* (i dont know if CPU/NB and CPU voltages are like holding hands)


Nice overclock!
Where do you get this CPU-Z version with the sabertooth label ? I only can find the ROG version.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gatornation240*
> 
> Time to stop lurking and start posting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love this forum, tons of useful info in here that helped me get this thing running with no issues ( I had 3 diffrent BSOD + ati driver issues) I've got 16 fans + a dominator cooling her. Never seen my cpu/vcore above 45 (prime, aida, cinabench, heavenbench, etc.) I foresee a long relationship with this board. Thanks again gurus for all the info you guys share. anyone running the new bios yet? 1304 is fine for me so far
> ambient temp:24C* ~7/16 fans @100%~
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pics


So far 1 guy says he got a bump from new BIOS.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedy-j*
> 
> Nice overclock!
> Where do you get this CPU-Z version with the sabertooth label ? I only can find the ROG version.


hey there... thx...

i found it in the downloads section of the SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 of the asus website... looks pretty cool huh?

if you have any ideas of how to lower the voltages WITHOUT affecting clocks or performance, give me a shout...


----------



## Norelec

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> I hope this doesnt post twice as it crashed the first time... only while I post in these forums...
> I would try and borrow or grab a power supply with good voltage regulation to verify if its the power supply or not. I understand your reasons for waiting. If you upgrade, the power supply forums are great. Or just ask these guys which they prefer on the 8150 and your upgraded specs.
> 2nd will your case fit a 240 rad? One possible option is to upgrade the processor clc and use the current 620 with the gpu mod on the new card. That way it will be used and people have had great success cooling their video cards with them while really cutting down the noise. Just an idea.
> two people trip-t and chmodlabs are selling brackets to mount them on the cards ( i dont remember if the 670 requires a shim for the gpu or not.
> On the cpu there are some cool new clc units that are supposed to hit the shelves soon. Eisberg by coolermaster $$$ which allows upgrades
> coolit 320mm version, and i think the h100 is getting a upgrade also.
> Hope this helps.
> Sunset1


Just thought i'd let you know I replaced the PSU with a Corsair HX1050 system seems to befine for now run Prime95 for 4hrs (would of been longer but needed to use it) was stable. CPU got to 63c with 2x noctua nf-f12 pwm in push/pull.
So i just thought i'd say thanx for your help and the day before the new PSU arrived the fans started turning off at random CPU hit 75c while watching youtube so yes thanx once again saved me a few $$$ with the way it was heading


----------



## sunset1

That Corsair HX1050 should be a nice addition to your hardware.


----------



## virtualelvis

I just updated to 1503 and still can't get 18x I can get 17.5 stable
Can someone look at my pics of my bios and see if you can see
anything that I can change to make the 18x stable?
I'm new to this.. so thanks for any input.. Dwight in New Orleans

IMG_4335.jpg 112k .jpg file


IMG_4336.jpg 139k .jpg file


IMG_4337.jpg 126k .jpg file


----------



## Krusher33

Drop HT link by a step, see if that improve things.


----------



## virtualelvis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Drop HT link by a step, see if that improve things.


No .. still says.. Illegal Sumout Possible Hardware Failure

thanks for trying though

Could it be my slow memory or does that have nothing to do with it?


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *virtualelvis*
> 
> No .. still says.. Illegal Sumout Possible Hardware Failure
> thanks for trying though
> Could it be my slow memory or does that have nothing to do with it?


set cpu/nb voltage to auto
cpu/nb LLC to auto
lower your HTT link to 2600
cpu voltage freq: auto
same for cpu power phase control..

EDIT: your FSB is way too high... change the memory multiplier and balance your overclock with the cpu multi


----------



## Speedy-j

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> hey there... thx...
> i found it in the downloads section of the SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 of the asus website... looks pretty cool huh?
> if you have any ideas of how to lower the voltages WITHOUT affecting clocks or performance, give me a shout...


Try to reduce the vcore in very little steps and test stability ,go further afther the system is stable enough til it crashes


----------



## virtualelvis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> set cpu/nb voltage to auto
> cpu/nb LLC to auto
> lower your HTT link to 2600
> cpu voltage freq: auto
> same for cpu power phase control..
> EDIT: your FSB is way too high... change the memory multiplier and balance your overclock with the cpu multi


Can you point me in some direction to understand
how to change the memory multiplier ?

or can you recommend a overclocking manual to help me learn that? thanks


----------



## virtualelvis

I don't know .. but whatever you had me change made the cpu heat up fast on the
stability test.. I never saw it go over 57c and it was steadily getting hotter...
it hit 75c and risnig before i killed the test...


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *virtualelvis*
> 
> Can you point me in some direction to understand
> how to change the memory multiplier ?
> or can you recommend a overclocking manual to help me learn that? thanks


do it manually... and the option to check the memory multiplier, is the option that reads "Memory Frequency" right under "PCIE Frequency"... put it on 1600mhz
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *virtualelvis*
> 
> I don't know .. but whatever you had me change made the cpu heat up fast on the
> stability test.. I never saw it go over 57c and it was steadily getting hotter...
> it hit 75c and risnig before i killed the test...


are you using Prime95 to test stability?? not that i am against that program, but i keep away from it... i use the AIDA64 stability test instead...

temps are raising fast because the cpu/nb is now on "free will"... it will increase/decrease as it sees fit.. mine does that too... so dont worry... but you did good to halt the test... i dont use programs like intel burn test, prime or whatever program that "tries to kill" my cpu... if it doesn't crash while playing, it is good to go... also, a good tool for testing stability (in my honest opinion) is the 3DMark Advantage... run the performance test and if it bluescreens, try lower clocks...

dont freak out... as i saw in one of the users signature overhere, overclocking is tough.. so dont get frustrated...


----------



## virtualelvis

Cool thanks for your help..


----------



## Ashtyr

I wanted to tell what happened to me a few days ago, windows 7 stopped working , after trying to fix it finished doing a fresh install.

Everything perfect except the games, which were far worse and didn't understand why.
At the end I remembered that i hadn't installed the latest drivers for the motherboard , I had installed the ones that came with the ASUS CD , was installed and all was going as I remembered.

So if you have not updated the chipset drivers, do it right now. I never imagined I would be so important, Go to the ASUS website and get off the latest drivers


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> My Sabertooth randomly restarts maybe once/twice a day, nothing in event viewer.
> Running bone stock ATM, still does it.
> Can stress it to Hades and back and it will never restart.
> Any ideas, I've already reseated everything, tried different RAM, bot an ATI and NV card.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axxess+*
> 
> Power supply stability? Just a guess.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> @grunion:
> random reboots can be very frustrating. I had them on a different board and finally traced my issues down to the power supply. Thats why this time, i actually followed the recomendations of some of the people in the power supply forum. i bought a seasonic 750x gold. Yes it was pricey and im sure there are suitable units for a lower cost but I just was thru with issues related to power supplies. It worked and i have had not one issue with my system. Possibly visit the power supply forums and they can make some suggestions for testing or make recomondations.
> I also wanted to thank you for the link in your sig "site features and explanations" for what i think is a must read for anyone on ocn.
> I had been looking for information on posting site features etc. but didnt know where to find this info. I will definitely rep when i get back from vacation as i have issues on my ipad when repping.
> Good luck and i hope you solve your issue.
> Sunset1
> @djmatrix32 i dont have my board close but im thinking there is a setting to change the audio front pannel connector from ? to hd audio. As my board supported hd i tried it and had issues so i used the other setting. I dont remember what it was called. oh i think it was audio97? or similar. I have a coolermaster haf 22. I do know in the past not all audio headers were wired the same. If there is an audio forum possibly someone has more information on this.. possible issue. I dont use my front pannel connectors often and in the back i use spidif. or optitcal connection. Sorry i dont have a more definite answer
> sunset1


Finally able to draw a bead on what's happening.

On occasion while the cpu(fx-6100) is switching power states the board will shut down.
I've only seen it happen when it hits 3.9....3.3, 3.6 are fine, only when it hits 3.9.
If I disable turbo and my power saving features, no more issues.
But I would really like to use the power saving features, any thoughts?


----------



## gatornation240

Please add me
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2553315


----------



## cez4r

*SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 BIOS 1006
2012.10.22 update*

1.Improve system stability.
2.Support new CPUs.

Download


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedy-j*
> 
> Nice but hitting 5GHz is not that hard with a decent CPU
> Here is mine http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2394992
> And its stable at 4800MHz


----------



## Tweeky

8350 @ newegg

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113284&name=Processors-Desktops&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&AID=10446076&PID=4003003&SID=1nd4wxmxfoles


----------



## gatornation240

12.10 Came out guys
http://support.amd.com/us/gpudownload/windows/Pages/raid_windows.aspx


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Finally able to draw a bead on what's happening.
> 
> On occasion while the cpu(fx-6100) is switching power states the board will shut down.
> I've only seen it happen when it hits 3.9....3.3, 3.6 are fine, only when it hits 3.9.
> If I disable turbo and my power saving features, no more issues.
> But I would really like to use the power saving features, any thoughts?


Really weird. I think the voltage goes up too when it does that? Have you tried manually setting it to 3.9 with the voltage it tries to use?

How's the temps when it hits 3.9?


----------



## Krusher33

Anyone in this club getting Vishera by the way?

And I hate that the ASUS US site does not have both versions of the boards on there but the Global one does.


----------



## Mr357

Do the 1503 BIOS support Vishera? I'm probably going to get an 8320, but need to know if it'll be compatible.


----------



## Ghost12

I will buy the 8320 to replace my 8120 if and only if it clocks stable on or above 5ghz with reasonable voltage/temps to weigh against the performance. At those sort of speeds considering the improvements over Zambezi I would be able to justify it as a good upgrade and not just for the sake of the purchase. The performance from my sabertooth and 2x hd7870 is very very good with my dozer at 4.7 but the performance increase even from my dozer above 4.7 is greatly enhanced. My chip cannot run stable above 4.7 so anything above that for piledriver would be great


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Anyone in this club getting Vishera by the way?
> And I hate that the ASUS US site does not have both versions of the boards on there but the Global one does.


Definately! Have been waiting on this. Been tempted to get BD. Hope this is worth the wait.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> I will buy the 8320 to replace my 8120 if and only if it clocks stable on or above 5ghz with reasonable voltage/temps to weigh against the performance. At those sort of speeds considering the improvements over Zambezi I would be able to justify it as a good upgrade and not just for the sake of the purchase. The performance from my sabertooth and 2x hd7870 is very very good with my dozer at 4.7 but the performance increase even from my dozer above 4.7 is greatly enhanced. My chip cannot run stable above 4.7 so anything above that for piledriver would be great


I just had someone tell me he got to 4.6ghz @ 1.48v on an 8320.


----------



## Electroneng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> Do the 1503 BIOS support Vishera? I'm probably going to get an 8320, but need to know if it'll be compatible.


It is not. Still waiting for a reply from Asus but this bios does not add Vishera capability. They are trying to sell the R2.0 boards now. Whether or not any regular 900 series boards below the Crosshair will get support is anyone's guess. Since they stated when they started releasing the r2.0 boards that they would get most of the bios focus it does not look probable in the next couple of weeks at least or ever.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electroneng*
> 
> It is not. Still waiting for a reply from Asus but this bios does not add Vishera capability. They are trying to sell the R2.0 boards now. Whether or not any regular 900 series boards below the Crosshair will get support is anyone's guess. Since they stated when they started releasing the r2.0 boards that they would get most of the bios focus it does not look probable in the next couple of weeks at least or ever.


I wish they would update that list already or release an agesa updated bios, I am unsure if they had already added support in 1503 without stating it, the sept update on the saber 990fx rev2 was updated for Vishera but they made no statements then, however it is now listed as supported from that bios as of today.

I can only agree with you that this looks like a rev2 sales tactic.


----------



## EniGma1987

Which is absolute BS since many of us bought the original revision a little before or around the time Bulldozer came out. Now ASUS expects us to simply buy a whole new revision board for the new processor?


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electroneng*
> 
> It is not. Still waiting for a reply from Asus but this bios does not add Vishera capability. They are trying to sell the R2.0 boards now. Whether or not any regular 900 series boards below the Crosshair will get support is anyone's guess. Since they stated when they started releasing the r2.0 boards that they would get most of the bios focus it does not look probable in the next couple of weeks at least or ever.


They haven't added any Vishera's to the list for the R2.0, but it got a BIOS update yesterday and the notes say "Support new CPUs". If your prediction is true then I'm done with ASUS.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> Which is absolute BS since many of us bought the original revision a little before or around the time Bulldozer came out. Now ASUS expects us to simply buy a whole new revision board for the new processor?


Who knows, sales are their business, but I agree, I got a 990fx saber before BD even came out, and have been sitting on it with a temp 620 x4 of all chips waiting for pd, it isn't worth it to get a new board and cpu to make use of an 8350, I would lean more towards a non amd build if I were to go that far. We need the rev1's to be officially supported.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> They haven't added any Vishera's to the list for the R2.0, but it got a BIOS update yesterday and the notes say "Support new CPUs". If your prediction is true then I'm done with ASUS.


Both Sabertooth 990fx rev2 and Crosshair V Formula-Z have 8350 support listed as of today, showing support since a sept bios update.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> Both Sabertooth 990fx rev2 and Crosshair V Formula-Z have 8350 support listed as of today, showing support since a sept bios update.


As well as the M5A990X EVO R2.0, but, of course, not the regular M5A990X EVO. Boycott ASUS if we don't see new BIOS soon? Hopefully they were just making their new boards first priority, and are working on the old ones.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> As well as the M5A990X EVO R2.0, but, of course, not the regular M5A990X EVO. Boycott ASUS if we don't see new BIOS soon? Hopefully they were just making their new boards first priority, and are working on the old ones.


For all we know those October 10/11 updates were the support updates and they just aren't officially stating it yet for sales reasons, don't much feel like pulling apart a uefi bios to try and debug pull agesa revision by matching agesa code to another boards with known support. ;p


----------



## Krusher33

Better not be true... I just bought the dang board!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electroneng*
> 
> Just got another reply back from Asus on Piledriver compatibility!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Dear Valued Customer,
> 
> Thank you for contacting ASUS Customer Service.
> 
> My name is Fiona and it's my pleasure to help you with your problem.
> 
> I am afraid to say FX 8350, 8320 couldn't support the M5A97 EVO, M5A99X EVO, or the Sabertooth 990FX motherboard.
> 
> To get support for the 2nd generation FX CPU's, you must purchase a R2.0 version board.
Click to expand...


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Better not be true... I just bought the dang board!


Well we know it isn't true for the CHV which had the 1605 bios released 1 day after the 1503 sabertooth update, this absolutely has to be a sales tactic. That CHV 1605 update runs 8350 in half of those reviews out there.


----------



## gatornation240

Wow they really expect us to go out and get rev2 for this? as they still have rev1 up on newegg, huge turnoff wooooooow I may just give this board to my lil bro and go Intel; *megaFAIL*


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gatornation240*
> 
> Wow they really expect us to go out and get rev2 for this? as they still have rev1 up on newegg, huge turnoff wooooooow


I am page humping their cpu support lists to see if any rev1 boards get the official support listing, until then all we can do is wait and see if 1503 does indeed work fine once someone gets their chip.


----------



## EniGma1987

Hopefully my CPU will be here tomorrow, Thursday at the latest. Stupid Newegg has a warehouse 30 minutes away and shipped to a bunch of other people from there but Newegg decided to ship mine from New Jersey even though I ordered on launch day within the first hour of them coming up for sale







Guess it just isnt my week for PC hardware.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> Hopefully my CPU will be here tomorrow, Thursday at the latest. Stupid Newegg has a warehouse 30 minutes away and shipped to a bunch of other people from there but Newegg decided to ship mine from New Jersey even though I ordered on launch day within the first hour of them coming up for sale
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess it just isnt my week for PC hardware.


Sorry to hear that. Please keep us updated and let us know if everything works!


----------



## sunset1

@grunion I took a look at some power supply testers.. most of them are 20-35.00 that being said I doubt that they would show and error if the power supply is working. I simply dont know enough about them. My observations from other posts in this thread lead me to think that the fx processors require a very stable power supply. or rather a well regulated one. ' if ' your unit works but does not tightly regiate the voltages it could be causing the issue. the only real way to test that i know of is to watch the vdrops ( I have not done this just read about it) and see if it happens when the switching occurs.
again this is just a guess and the only real test that i know of is to try a unit from a working fx machine. if you lived in my neck of the woods I would have already done this. for ya.
could it be the board? sure.. could it be the chip .. possibly, but the first place to check is the psu.

As a troubleshooter this kind of problem drives me nuts in my own machines. Especially at stock speeds. thanks for keeping us updated and let me know if you solve this.

and about the asus sabertooth 990fx not supporting the new chips.. that sucks but its life in the computer world. However.. There should have been prior notice about the differences in the board design. When i bought my sabertooth the new one was not out yet but was due soon. How soon was the question, but i would have waited had i known the difference in the boards. Until the post about the tech support notice i had no idea this was the case. And i feel for anyone that just bought a new board.
thats a real shame because a little notice could have saved some people grief.
have a great night everyone .


----------



## Krusher33

That's the thing. Might just be me, but I felt like we were lead on to believe that Piledriver will work on all 990 chipset boards.


----------



## gatornation240

R2 came out a week after I got my board (***). I was about to checkout with the 8320 in basket last night but for some reason didn't, blessing in disguise maybe. PLZ ASUS can we has bios update?


----------



## pony-tail

I too will be a VERY unhappy camper if Asus does not do a bios update for the rev. 1.0 board . I have an 1100T on mine at present and it is working fine so if no update it will stay that way - I will not be buying a new board just to update to a marginally faster CPU as the new board will still have all the bottlenecks associated with the 990FX chipset ( just a waste of $$$).
I have the same issue with a Gigabyte GA-990FXA - UD3 rev 1.0 . ( Vishera unsupported )


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pony-tail*
> 
> I too will be a VERY unhappy camper if Asus does not do a bios update for the rev. 1.0 board . I have an 1100T on mine at present and it is working fine so if no update it will stay that way - I will not be buying a new board just to update to a marginally faster CPU as the new board will still have all the bottlenecks associated with the 990FX chipset ( just a waste of $$$).
> I have the same issue with a Gigabyte GA-990FXA - UD3 rev 1.0 . ( Vishera unsupported )


Seen 8350 working on UD3 not sure it is rev1 or 2, but it is running f9e bios, which the 1.0 has, and it did have an update on 10/08/2012
" Beta BIOS
Update CPU AGESA 1.5.0.0"

I am betting this will work just fine, as KyadCK on these forums is running a 8350 over 5ghz on a UD3 f9e bios board.

Edit: KyadCK said his was a rev 1.1, so the 1.0's should be peachy on f9e.


----------



## Ghost12

When I bought my bulldozer and my sabertooth a few months ago I had no idea about a revision 2 coming out quickly after. If this revision 1 indeed does not support piledriver in order to drive revision 2 sales of new boards I will quite simply have no choice to switch to intel. I could not justify the purchase of another board to run piledriver based on the limited performance improvements in gaming versus sandy/ivy. I fully supported this release with my board and cpu choice but couldn't justify a whole new build again. I would be very disappointed to have to switch but absolutely guaranteed switch I will


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> When I bought my bulldozer and my sabertooth a few months ago I had no idea about a revision 2 coming out quickly after. If this revision 1 indeed does not support piledriver in order to drive revision 2 sales of new boards I will quite simply have no choice to switch to intel. I could not justify the purchase of another board to run piledriver based on the limited performance improvements in gaming versus sandy/ivy. I fully supported this release with my board and cpu choice but couldn't justify a whole new build again. I would be very disappointed to have to switch but absolutely guaranteed switch I will


This is the very conundrum people are faced with at this time, however we have someone already running on a CHV-F rev1 just fine, and a day or two well see how it does on rev1 sabers.


----------



## Ghost12

Well here is hoping so. I didn't buy into all the bulldozer is terrible hype and I am very happy with my set up. I even just bought a raystorm amd specific cpu block so I really am bought into amd at the moment. A piledriver if clocks to round 5ghz and goes on my sabertooth would be an upgrade and a very justifiable one considering price/performance improvements over my cpu, but throw into the mix a new board and it would pose a different question for me.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> Well here is hoping so. I didn't buy into all the bulldozer is terrible hype and I am very happy with my set up. I even just bought a raystorm amd specific cpu block so I really am bought into amd at the moment. A piledriver if clocks to round 5ghz and goes on my sabertooth would be an upgrade and a very justifiable one considering price/performance improvements over my cpu, but throw into the mix a new board and it would pose a different question for me.


Sadly i got the saber before the bd came out, and have been sitting on a 620 x4 temp processor since. : /

I have my hopes on this too lol


----------



## Ghost12

I honestly believe it will be fine with the revision 1. There is a uk forum where I am a member but very rarely post due to the total intel bias and I have just had a quick nose through the piledriver discussion. Very positive response to this release and all the blue crowd seem to think bios updates will come or not be required as its the same architecture reworked. We shall see.


----------



## cez4r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Better not be true... I just bought the dang board!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I am afraid to say FX 8350, 8320 couldn't support the *M5A97 EVO*, M5A99X EVO, or the Sabertooth 990FX motherboard.
Click to expand...

Wait a minute! This lady probably is not telling truth!
SUPERKAMES has M5A97 EVO *rev.1* and his test FX-8350 worked perfect with *older BIOS* - he posted proof here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1318860/various-amd-piledriver-fx-series-cpu-reviews-vishera-fx-8350-fx-8320-fx-6300-fx-4300/1000#post_18437618


----------



## sunset1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cez4r*
> 
> Wait a minute! This lady probably is not telling truth!
> SUPERKAMES has M5A97 EVO *rev.1* and his test FX-8350 worked perfect with *older BIOS* - he posted proof here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1318860/various-amd-piledriver-fx-series-cpu-reviews-vishera-fx-8350-fx-8320-fx-6300-fx-4300/1000#post_18437618


well that was a m5a97. So i guess only time will tell. And i doubt that she was lying probably mis-informed as i get different answers from tech support often. I guess we wil lhave to wait but it kinda sucks as i was going to order one when it was new and the price was down. I saw it pretty cheap a few days ago.


----------



## cez4r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> well that was a m5a97... And i doubt that she was lying ...


If a cheaper mobo supports Vishera with old bios then I think you can hope for the best in case of the Sabertooth








And I didn't tell she was lying


----------



## EniGma1987

I just received 100% confirmation from a guy at ASUS that Vishera support was added with the latest bios update, even though it isnt listed as such. Bios version 1503.

My processor wont be here till Thursday so I will get personal confirmation then

This is the info I received from ASUS:
Quote:


> Re: Sabertooth 990FX Vishera support
> 
> The 10/10 build labelled 1503 is the supporting build for Vishera.


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> I just received 100% confirmation from a guy at ASUS that Vishera support was added with the latest bios update, even though it isnt listed as such. Bios version 1503.
> My processor wont be here till Thursday so I will get personal confirmation then


I hope so !


----------



## gatornation240

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> I just received 100% confirmation from a guy at ASUS that Vishera support was added with the latest bios update, even though it isnt listed as such. Bios version 1503.
> My processor wont be here till Thursday so I will get personal confirmation then
> This is the info I received from ASUS:


good man, thanks for letting us know; Still gonna wait for a screenshot of someone with R1 and PD. God I hope someone gets it today









Looks like we may be in luck
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> im sitting pretty with 5.07ghz stable with the 8350... on the crosshair v.
> the funniest part about this whole deal was i used to exact bios config i had with my 8150, which was 24/7 @ 4.85ghz, and i upped the multiplier.
> here's the kicker to this story.. my bios are currently at 1402, which is 3 bios updates BEHIND what it should be; 1605. the motherboard booted up no problem, detected it no problem and booted up windows 7 no problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quick screen:


----------



## sunset1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cez4r*
> 
> If a cheaper mobo supports Vishera with old bios then I think you can hope for the best in case of the Sabertooth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I didn't tell she was lying


sorry quick post i didnt meant to imply that .. :>


----------



## andi1971

hope so 2 ! if not i never buy asus again , AMD said all 990fx chipsets would be supported and on asus website the low level M5A88-EVO shows support for PD ,just doesnt make sense to me to support PD on a revised 880 chipset and not on a rev1 990fx sabertooth


----------



## rolandduursma

Bios 1604 out now.

Changelog:

SABERTOOTH 990FX BIOS 1604
1.Improve system stability.
2.Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolandduursma*
> 
> Bios 1604 out now.
> 
> Changelog:
> 
> SABERTOOTH 990FX BIOS 1604
> 1.Improve system stability.
> 2.Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us


I guess they haven't updated their CPU Support list yet.

BTW I also received an email from tech. I asked will there be support coming for Vishera cpu's for the Sabertooth pre- v2.0?

The answer I got? "The CPU you mentioned hasn't been produced yet. Please keep an eye on our page to see if the motherboard will support it."


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolandduursma*
> 
> Bios 1604 out now.
> Changelog:
> SABERTOOTH 990FX BIOS 1604
> 1.Improve system stability.
> 2.Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us


Yes the bios is on the site. Just downloaded but not flash yet as little point until/if purchase piledriver


----------



## gatornation240

Good eye roland, they must have just posted it, I checked a few hours ago. Thank you ASUS
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> "The CPU you mentioned hasn't been produced yet. Please keep an eye on our page to see if the motherboard will support it."


LMAO do they not tell them what to say? Everyone @ these call centers are on a different channel


----------



## sunset1

well when you cant get the latest script read the old one.. actually its probably computer based.. doh! running version 1.x


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gatornation240*
> 
> Good eye roland, they must have just posted it, I checked a few hours ago. Thank you ASUS
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> "The CPU you mentioned hasn't been produced yet. Please keep an eye on our page to see if the motherboard will support it."
> 
> 
> 
> LMAO do they not tell them what to say? Everyone @ these call centers are on a different channel
Click to expand...

I wrote back just a bit ago. I said "Vishera = Piledriver = AMD FX 8350, 8320, 6300, 4300. Yes, it has come out now. Today ASUS released BIOS 1604 and in the change log it said "Support for new CPU's". Though in the CPU support list, the NEW CPU's aren't listed."


----------



## gatornation240

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I wrote back just a bit ago. I said "Vishera = Piledriver = AMD FX 8350, 8320, 6300, 4300. Yes, it has come out now. Today ASUS released BIOS 1604 and in the change log it said "Support for new CPU's". Though in the CPU support list, the NEW CPU's aren't listed."


Don't you just love it when you have to do someones job for them? The 4300 is beating the 8150 lulz I may just go 6300 and call it a day


----------



## Mr357

***For those worried about Piledriver compatibility***

I have good news! I got my 8320 today and it works with the 1503 BIOS just fine, so don't let ASUS con you into buying an R2.0 board!


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> ***For those worried about Piledriver compatibility***
> I have good news! I got my 8320 today and it works with the 1503 BIOS just fine, so don't let ASUS con you into buying an R2.0 board!


Yeah, I saw confirmations of it running fine as I suspected it would, and that the 16xx bios came out, ordered my 8350 today.


----------



## Dhalgren65

ThankYouThankYouThankyou!!!!


----------



## sunset1

happy days are here again.. :> now you guys have me interested in the 4300 and 6300 i didnt even konw existed.. ;> thats why i love ocn. Moar hardware!
sunset1


----------



## Krusher33

I just got an answer back to my last email to them. They said they do not support it now. They're still testing and will be updating soon.

*NOW* and *testing* is the key word. They should've just said so.


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I just got an answer back to my last email to them. They said they do not support it now. They're still testing and will be updating soon.
> *NOW* and *testing* is the key word. They should've just said so.


That is good to know !
It seems that some of their "Tech" staff are somewhat poorly informed .


----------



## Krusher33

Or slowly informed.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pony-tail*
> 
> That is good to know !
> It seems that some of their "Tech" staff are somewhat poorly informed .


Tech staff, silly guy, more like screen readers who aren't even familiar with who made windows.


----------



## D6Ex

Just tried to get an RMA done through ASUS after my 990FX Sabertooth just decided to stop working a little after a year. Much like a previous member the memory slots just decided to randomly fail which made me waste my time RMAing components and figuring out what was wrong. This board had been acting up previously but I was hoping for improvements with a new bios. Many issues are still outstanding. Overall the board gives me issues with booting to an SSD, multiple failures upon installing Windows 7 and minor annoyances like restarting. This board was bought brand new. I spoke with Scott Billings (scott-cl) and suggested that I receive the Revision 2.0 board as a replacement at the request of my customer and he just started spouting excuses. The board has the exact same features as the original 990FX with changes to the PCB yet they are stating that is a different board. Really Scott? I even offered to pay for an upgrade and they still refused. What kind of customer "loyalty" is this exactly? Doesn't sound like there is any loyalty involved. My clients are unhappy with their purchase and ASUS just left me stranded. This board isn't exactly budget friendly yet their customer service acts like you bought a $50 motherboard. Way to treat your fan base ASUS. I guess that is direction they are going. They abandon their products and then want you to buy a whole new board in the same generation. It is clear that neither Scott nor ASUS care about any of the issues we have been reporting. Just seems like a smokescreen. I see that even more evident with them trying to push Revision 2.0 for Piledriver just to make people "upgrade". Just letting everyone know that you can expect the same issues when you RMA your Revision 1.0 board and that the Revision 2.0, *of the exact same board*, is considered an upgrade. I guess I should go out and buy a whole new motherboard. Looks like they are doing the same thing with the "Z" version of their Crosshair V Formula board. Moved from Gigabyte to ASUS in hopes of better service and this is the result. It's too bad that they treat customers like this.


----------



## cl-scott

Quote:


> ]Just tried to get an RMA done through ASUS after my 990FX Sabertooth just decided to stop working a little after a year. Much like a previous member the memory slots just decided to randomly fail which made me waste my time RMAing components and figuring out what was wrong. This board had been acting up previously but I was hoping for improvements with a new bios. Many issues are still outstanding. Overall the board gives me issues with booting to an SSD, multiple failures upon installing Windows 7 and minor annoyances like restarting. This board was bought brand new. I spoke with Scott Billings (scott-cl) and suggested that I receive the Revision 2.0 board as a replacement at the request of my customer and he just started spouting excuses. The board has the exact same features as the original 990FX with changes to the PCB yet they are stating that is a different board. Really Scott? I even offered to pay for an upgrade and they still refused. What kind of customer "loyalty" is this exactly? Doesn't sound like there is any loyalty involved. My clients are unhappy with their purchase and ASUS just left me stranded. This board isn't exactly budget friendly yet their customer service acts like you bought a $50 motherboard. Way to treat your fan base ASUS. I guess that is direction they are going. They abandon their products and then want you to buy a whole new board in the same generation. It is clear that neither Scott nor ASUS care about any of the issues we have been reporting. Just seems like a smokescreen. I see that even more evident with them trying to push Revision 2.0 for Piledriver just to make people "upgrade". Just letting everyone know that you can expect the same issues when you RMA your Revision 1.0 board and that the Revision 2.0, *of the exact same board*, is considered an upgrade. I guess I should go out and buy a whole new motherboard. Looks like they are doing the same thing with the "Z" version of their Crosshair V Formula board. Moved from Gigabyte to ASUS in hopes of better service and this is the result. It's too bad that they treat customers like this.


Just to add a little clarification to this:

I will not make this into a who said what, when, where, and to whom discussion. I will simply state that the difference between the Sabertooth 990FX and Sabertooth 990FX Revision 2.0 board would be roughly analogous to the difference between XP Home and XP Pro. It's not a perfect analogy, but it's good enough for government work as the saying goes. I'll add links to the respective product pages at the end of this post, and anyone who cares to can compare for themselves.

I mostly just want to make one thing perfectly clear, and that is that *D6Ex is in no way being prevented from submitting an RMA for his Sabertooth 990FX*. He may call up the call center any time he likes and complete the RMA process for a replacement Sabertooth 990FX. No one at Asus is denying his RMA request, only the request to be upgraded to the Revision 2.0 board.

Now, as promised, the links to the two respective product pages.

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#overview (990FX)

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R20/#overview (990FX R2.0)


----------



## Axxess+

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cl-scott*
> 
> Just to add a little clarification to this:
> I will not make this into a who said what, when, where, and to whom discussion. I will simply state that the difference between the Sabertooth 990FX and Sabertooth 990FX Revision 2.0 board would be roughly analogous to the difference between XP Home and XP Pro. It's not a perfect analogy, but it's good enough for government work as the saying goes. I'll add links to the respective product pages at the end of this post, and anyone who cares to can compare for themselves.
> I mostly just want to make one thing perfectly clear, and that is that *D6Ex is in no way being prevented from submitting an RMA for his Sabertooth 990FX*. He may call up the call center any time he likes and complete the RMA process for a replacement Sabertooth 990FX. No one at Asus is denying his RMA request, *only the request to be upgraded to the Revision 2.0 board.*
> Now, as promised, the links to the two respective product pages.
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#overview (990FX)
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R20/#overview (990FX R2.0)


Why?
And why the lack of answers for his points concerning the lack of support for the first revision of the board?


----------



## Krusher33

[quote name="cl-scott" url="/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-990fx-owners-club/3200_50#post_18459403"][quote name="D6Ex" url="/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-990fx-owners-club/3220#post_18458454"]Just tried to get an RMA done through ASUS after my 990FX Sabertooth just decided to stop working a little after a year. Much like a previous member the memory slots just decided to randomly fail which made me waste my time RMAing components and figuring out what was wrong. This board had been acting up previously but I was hoping for improvements with a new bios. Many issues are still outstanding. Overall the board gives me issues with booting to an SSD, multiple failures upon installing Windows 7 and minor annoyances like restarting. This board was bought brand new. I spoke with Scott Billings (scott-cl) and suggested that I receive the Revision 2.0 board as a replacement at the request of my customer and he just started spouting excuses. The board has the exact same features as the original 990FX with changes to the PCB yet they are stating that is a different board. Really Scott? I even offered to pay for an upgrade and they still refused. What kind of customer "loyalty" is this exactly? Doesn't sound like there is any loyalty involved. My clients are unhappy with their purchase and ASUS just left me stranded. This board isn't exactly budget friendly yet their customer service acts like you bought a $50 motherboard. Way to treat your fan base ASUS. I guess that is direction they are going. They abandon their products and then want you to buy a whole new board in the same generation. It is clear that neither Scott nor ASUS care about any of the issues we have been reporting. Just seems like a smokescreen. I see that even more evident with them trying to push Revision 2.0 for Piledriver just to make people "upgrade". Just letting everyone know that you can expect the same issues when you RMA your Revision 1.0 board and that the Revision 2.0, *of the exact same board*, is considered an upgrade. I guess I should go out and buy a whole new motherboard. Looks like they are doing the same thing with the "Z" version of their Crosshair V Formula board. Moved from Gigabyte to ASUS in hopes of better service and this is the result. It's too bad that they treat customers like this.[/quote] Just to add a little clarification to this: I will not make this into a who said what, when, where, and to whom discussion. I will simply state that the difference between the Sabertooth 990FX and Sabertooth 990FX Revision 2.0 board would be roughly analogous to the difference between XP Home and XP Pro. It's not a perfect analogy, but it's good enough for government work as the saying goes. I'll add links to the respective product pages at the end of this post, and anyone who cares to can compare for themselves. I mostly just want to make one thing perfectly clear, and that is that *D6Ex is in no way being prevented from submitting an RMA for his Sabertooth 990FX*. He may call up the call center any time he likes and complete the RMA process for a replacement Sabertooth 990FX. No one at Asus is denying his RMA request, only the request to be upgraded to the Revision 2.0 board. Now, as promised, the links to the two respective product pages. http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#overview (990FX) http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R20/#overview (990FX R2.0)[/quote] Basically the change in the PCIe SATA controller and the extra USB 3.0 controller? Which is why they need different BIOS's. But what I don't understand is... why not offer for upgrade if he's willing to pay the extra? Was he lowballing it?


----------



## shampoo911

I think that it is plain old business... You pay a lot of money for your Sabertooth 990FX, then an upgrade is out and you stop receiving support for your current mobo (even though it died)... Business pal...


----------



## sunset1

0 rep no participation in the forums, did he ask for help? then rants in here and tries to get everyone riled up because he rma'd good parts. Get the rma or move forward.
im done here.. btw my asus is 100% stable. They will get my buisness again.
have a great weekend.


----------



## Mr357

Anyone know what the max recommended temp on the VRM's is? I think I've seen mine hit 70C before.


----------



## D6Ex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cl-scott*
> 
> Just to add a little clarification to this:
> I will not make this into a who said what, when, where, and to whom discussion. I will simply state that the difference between the Sabertooth 990FX and Sabertooth 990FX Revision 2.0 board would be roughly analogous to the difference between XP Home and XP Pro. It's not a perfect analogy, but it's good enough for government work as the saying goes. I'll add links to the respective product pages at the end of this post, and anyone who cares to can compare for themselves.
> I mostly just want to make one thing perfectly clear, and that is that *D6Ex is in no way being prevented from submitting an RMA for his Sabertooth 990FX*. He may call up the call center any time he likes and complete the RMA process for a replacement Sabertooth 990FX. No one at Asus is denying his RMA request, only the request to be upgraded to the Revision 2.0 board.
> Now, as promised, the links to the two respective product pages.
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#overview (990FX)
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R20/#overview (990FX R2.0)


I'm not surprised by your response which mostly ignores the various issues I brought up. You also know very well that the R1 board has had a multitude of issues and instead of backing your product you instead decided to make a new revision. You have not provided a solution to the issues myself and other users in this thread have reported. I'm not alone on this issue. Feel free to keep making excuses and placing the blame elsewhere.

You have just proven, once again, that ASUS doesn't care with your canned response. You have not addressed crucial parts of my above post. You can try and sweep it under the rug all you like.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axxess+*
> 
> Why?
> And why the lack of answers for his points concerning the lack of support for the first revision of the board?


I think that this is pretty obvious. He doesn't have an answer. They just moved everything to the R2 board.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Basically the change in the PCIe SATA controller and the extra USB 3.0 controller? Which is why they need different BIOS's.
> But what I don't understand is... why not offer for upgrade if he's willing to pay the extra? Was he lowballing it?


Not really much different compared to R1. Same name with a Revision 2.0 added. How exactly would I "low ball" ASUS?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> I think that it is plain old business... You pay a lot of money for your Sabertooth 990FX, then an upgrade is out and you stop receiving support for your current mobo (even though it died)... Business pal...


This is the same board Shampoo. This is not a new socket or chipset. Try and understand this from the customers perspective. They are saying that the R1 board doesn't/won't support Piledriver.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> 0 rep no participation in the forums, did he ask for help? then rants in here and tries to get everyone riled up because he rma'd good parts. Get the rma or move forward.
> im done here.. btw my asus is 100% stable. They will get my buisness again.
> have a great weekend.


How many posts/rep does Scott have exactly? I'm no different than him. Give me a break.


----------



## sunset1

Of course there is no rep needed to post I simply made reference to the fact that maybe you should spend some time i here so we can help you.. instead of the way you are going about it.

This is the best place to get help or information on an asus sabertooth 990fx.

Am i frustrated with your post? yes. I dont care for the way you are treating the people that i have to go to when i need help with my board. And quite frankly you are not making very easy for anyone to help you. And my first instinct is to treat you like you are treating others. But thats not really my style.

Are people available to help you with any issues you have with your board?yes

Im sure people in here can relate to your frustration.
But at the same time not everyone has the issues you have. As you have suggested.
Think about it.. why is that?
This forum is for people to help each other and get information about the board.

You might start by simply listing your issues and how you went about solving them. Maybe someone else has some insight to your issues.
In the end you might just find a simple solution.
Sunset1


----------



## utnorris

Wasn't it posted a few posts up that the new 1503 supports PD? I have the Sabertooth and have had none of the issues you speak of, i.e. not booting with an SSD or Windoes install failing and I have rebuilt my OS a couple of times. I am not saying you do not have a faulty board, but the Rev 2 does not address these issues, all they did was add a few features such as better memory overclocking, bios flashback, additional Sata III ports, a slightly redesigned heatsink, a better VRM and maybe a few other things I missed. Point is those are added features, not fixes. If you want those features then you upgrade to the new board. If you need your board fixed, then RMA it. It comes with an advanced RMA feature since it is the Sabertooth series, so you could have them send you a new board first, then send yours back to ensure that the issues you are having are actually fixed. I understand the frustration, but ranting about how they won't let you trade in your current board when they do not offer that option is silly in my opinion. If you want a step up feature, go with EVGA, they offer that for the first 90 days, of course they do not make AMD based boards, but if that is important to you then you will not mind switching to Intel. No other MB maker offers an upgrade option, none, so it does not surprise me that Asus told you they could not do that.


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D6Ex*
> 
> They are saying that the R1 board doesn't/won't support Piledriver..


The R1 does already and has supported Piledriver since the CPUs launch day.

Look at this from a business standpoint. All businesses around the world give you an exchange (RMA) for the exact model you are warrantying. This is not some strange concept. The only time you will get a different product in exchange is if the old one is not made anymore and there is no stock laying around at all to give as a replacement, in which case (usually) the closest comparable product is given as the exchange. In your case, there are still R1.0 boards around and you have the R1.0, so thats what you get. Complaining about not being given a free upgrade is just pointless.

Now as for paying the difference to get an R2.0, I think that should be allowed and I see no reason why if you are already sending back a defective board that an upgrade shouldnt be allowed as long as the customer is willing to pay the price premium for the newer model.

Also, as promised earlier in one of my posts. My processor came in today and it is working 100% fine on the newest bios for the Revision 1 board. No issues at all and I am currently doing testing on overclocks. I have an FX-6300 (first person with that CPU on this board?) and am at 4.7GHz core speed, 2.6GHz NB speed, 2.6GHz HT speed. I am still going further too, but it looks like my NB tops out at 2.6GHz. I am hoping for closer to 5GHz core, and then will be testing the HT max speed.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D6Ex*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cl-scott*
> 
> Just to add a little clarification to this:
> I will not make this into a who said what, when, where, and to whom discussion. I will simply state that the difference between the Sabertooth 990FX and Sabertooth 990FX Revision 2.0 board would be roughly analogous to the difference between XP Home and XP Pro. It's not a perfect analogy, but it's good enough for government work as the saying goes. I'll add links to the respective product pages at the end of this post, and anyone who cares to can compare for themselves.
> I mostly just want to make one thing perfectly clear, and that is that *D6Ex is in no way being prevented from submitting an RMA for his Sabertooth 990FX*. He may call up the call center any time he likes and complete the RMA process for a replacement Sabertooth 990FX. No one at Asus is denying his RMA request, only the request to be upgraded to the Revision 2.0 board.
> Now, as promised, the links to the two respective product pages.
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#overview (990FX)
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R20/#overview (990FX R2.0)
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not surprised by your response which mostly ignores the various issues I brought up. You also know very well that the R1 board has had a multitude of issues and instead of backing your product you instead decided to make a new revision. You have not provided a solution to the issues myself and other users in this thread have reported. I'm not alone on this issue. Feel free to keep making excuses and placing the blame elsewhere.
> 
> You have just proven, once again, that ASUS doesn't care with your canned response. You have not addressed crucial parts of my above post. You can try and sweep it under the rug all you like.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Axxess+*
> 
> Why?
> And why the lack of answers for his points concerning the lack of support for the first revision of the board?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think that this is pretty obvious. He doesn't have an answer. They just moved everything to the R2 board.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Basically the change in the PCIe SATA controller and the extra USB 3.0 controller? Which is why they need different BIOS's.
> But what I don't understand is... why not offer for upgrade if he's willing to pay the extra? Was he lowballing it?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not really much different compared to R1. Same name with a Revision 2.0 added. How exactly would I "low ball" ASUS?
Click to expand...

Low ball as in only offer $20 or something stupid.
Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> I think that it is plain old business... You pay a lot of money for your Sabertooth 990FX, then an upgrade is out and you stop receiving support for your current mobo (even though it died)... Business pal...
> 
> 
> 
> This is the same board Shampoo. This is not a new socket or chipset. Try and understand this from the customers perspective. They are saying that the R1 board doesn't/won't support Piledriver.
Click to expand...

Actually it's not what ASUS said but a customer rep who probably was unaware that a new chip has come out. The latest news is that there is a BIOS that supposedly updates the CPU AGESA but it has not been tested and so they didn't add the CPU to the CPU support list.
Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> 0 rep no participation in the forums, did he ask for help? then rants in here and tries to get everyone riled up because he rma'd good parts. Get the rma or move forward.
> im done here.. btw my asus is 100% stable. They will get my buisness again.
> have a great weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> How many posts/rep does Scott have exactly? I'm no different than him. Give me a break.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> Of course there is no rep needed to post I simply made reference to the fact that maybe you should spend some time i here so we can help you.. instead of the way you are going about it.
> 
> This is the best place to get help or information on an asus sabertooth 990fx.
> 
> Am i frustrated with your post? yes. I dont care for the way you are treating the people that i have to go to when i need help with my board. And quite frankly you are not making very easy for anyone to help you. And my first instinct is to treat you like you are treating others. But thats not really my style.
> 
> Are people available to help you with any issues you have with your board?yes
> 
> Im sure people in here can relate to your frustration.
> But at the same time not everyone has the issues you have. As you have suggested.
> Think about it.. why is that?
> This forum is for people to help each other and get information about the board.
> 
> You might start by simply listing your issues and how you went about solving them. Maybe someone else has some insight to your issues.
> In the end you might just find a simple solution.
> Sunset1


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *utnorris*
> 
> Wasn't it posted a few posts up that the new 1503 supports PD? I have the Sabertooth and have had none of the issues you speak of, i.e. not booting with an SSD or Windoes install failing and I have rebuilt my OS a couple of times. I am not saying you do not have a faulty board, but the Rev 2 does not address these issues, all they did was add a few features such as better memory overclocking, bios flashback, additional Sata III ports, a slightly redesigned heatsink, a better VRM and maybe a few other things I missed. Point is those are added features, not fixes. If you want those features then you upgrade to the new board. If you need your board fixed, then RMA it. It comes with an advanced RMA feature since it is the Sabertooth series, so you could have them send you a new board first, then send yours back to ensure that the issues you are having are actually fixed. I understand the frustration, but ranting about how they won't let you trade in your current board when they do not offer that option is silly in my opinion. If you want a step up feature, go with EVGA, they offer that for the first 90 days, of course they do not make AMD based boards, but if that is important to you then you will not mind switching to Intel. No other MB maker offers an upgrade option, none, so it does not surprise me that Asus told you they could not do that.


These guys have valid points. I understand this is a board for a client but it really doesn't look like you've asked for help with any of it. Sure some people probably have had the same issues as you saw but there probably have been fixes for those issues at the same time.


----------



## Citra

They are not obligated to upgrade you to a r2,


----------



## endevite

Being A saber rev1 user here, you guys should be glad to hear this sabertooth rev1 990fx is now supported officially.

Link to the thread where I posted the list. :
http://www.overclock.net/t/1318860/various-amd-piledriver-fx-series-cpu-reviews-vishera-fx-8350-fx-8320-fx-6300-fx-4300/1900#post_18463105

It's about time they made it official.


----------



## Tora1337

I have a question that ties into an intermittent problem. Has anyone had issue with black screening when you are running a graphic intensive game? I have been having this problem off and on for a while. Let me give some back history a bit, so that it's clear.

About 2 months ago, I started having problems running certain games, specifically, I had problems running Battlefield 3 and occasionally, as I'm part of the closed beta, Mechwarrior Online. What would happen is as I was running the games, I would note a slight visual lag in the system, and at first, I thought it was specifically the game itself, because BF3 in particular has been lag-tastic on occasion, and then directly after the visual lag, stuttering, frame rates drop, etc. I'd get this horrible buzzing while simultaneously my screen would black out and my system, though keyboard was still on, mouse was still on, fans were still running at normal speeds (full usually, I prefer to have them ramped up consistent for cooling and I also run my liquid fast). So full power to the system, but it would just black out. I'd open the case, and find no lights on on the mobo.

I'd hard reboot, and go through the process of letting the 'start windows normally' error recovery do it's thing (I can't just hit enter, my kb is USB ported and doesn't function in DOS windows whatsoever - Any idea how to fix that?), and then restart windows normally. System would be operating fine till I started playing again, and then it would do it again about 10, or 15 minutes in.

I came here, looking for answers and found threads on running various tests. So I ran those tests, and with Prime 95, no issues, Memtest86, no issues, never showed an error, ran Furmark and as soon as I'd fire it up 'poof', there it goes. So in the angst-ridden hope that I didn't have to replace my GPU, I replaced my power supply, which was only a 500, and it was actually only a 500 by being a 480 on one rail and 20 on the other. It was an older 500 ultra modular, which I bought used, because I had quite literally popped my previous 450 watt power supply running my 9400 GT card. My previous PSU was a cheap one, and it was bought before I knew really anything about power supplies and how they typically, with very few exceptions (Ultra included) deliver the consistent power they claim.

Anyway, so I have this PSU, this 500 Watt, dual rail psu that's taking a crap on me, so I replace it with an Ultra X-4 full modular. Problem solved, I get it plugged in, I fire it up, I run tests, no issues, furmark and the EVGA precision programs both do burn in tests for a couple hours a piece, no issues.

Recently, the problem surfaced again, and I was hoping that it wouldn't be my PSU, as I really have no PSU to replace it with, and don't have the money to go buy another one, just to have it ready to RMA (I really can't afford the downtime, as I'm in school, online and my presence in my online classes is required consistently - Graphic Design). The problem happened again about a week ago, and then it happened several times since then. I keep checking my voltages, and they seem normal, but I've noticed a dip according to HWMonitor. Such as when I'm running a game I'll be monitoring and recording and just before it goes blackscreen, my 12 volt line drops to 5.89 or some such. The last times that it happened, it happened when I wasn't even running a game, it happened when I was just in desktop. 3 times in a row.

My first thought is that the PSU is not getting the power to deliver. My house is old, and electrical hasn't been updated in a long time, so knowing how deficient it is in my house, and that I had this thing plugged into an extension cord (probably kinda like a space heater, maybe not the best plan) with an adapter to allow 3 prong attachment (my wall sockets don't have 3 prongs, can you believe that? - Oh, and only room in the house that doesn't... ridiculous) So I unplug the adapter from the surge protection plug extender (it basically allows more things to be plugged into a single wall outlet than just two appliances) and swap the adapter over to another wall outlet closer to my computer and plug a surge protection power strip into it. Then plug the comp into the first plug available and I've not had it happen but once since. But it still happened.

I'm not sure that it's a power supply issue, because it hasn't happened but one time, while playing Medal of Honor Warfighter since I made the change. I have checked my timings on my RAM, and they are where they belong at 9-10-9-24 for G.Skill Sniper 1600Mhz 4Gig*2 dual-channel. I also adjusted my location for plugging in my SATA cords for my drive, and it didn't make a difference. I haven't fired up the game since that happened, but ran a burn in test on furmark on the card but I never got a black screen. My card was showing a lot of throttling though about 30 minutes into the test (I had initially planned to let it burn several hours, but after it started throttling, I watched it closely for about 20 minutes before I cancelled the burn in). My benchmark on Furmark came in at 2039 points. Card is a GTX 570 HD SC. I also noticed during the last 10 - 20 minutes, during which my frames in the test were dropping like mad to about 15 per second, that my temps were climbing ridiculously, even though it was throttling the Mhz back. The temps rose to 101 and then stabilized at 100. I can't seem to get my fan on my card to run up past 85% either. While I had major visual lag, the system didn't hard hang like it has in the past or recently.

I'm just really not sure what's going on with this issue. Perhaps I shouldn't be posting about it, until I have more consistent issues or more data, but it is what it is. Does anyone have an idea here? Should I just get an UPS and see if that solves the possible fluctuation, or just RMA the PSU and get a new one? Being that the only PSU I have still works, but doesn't run my card effectively it leaves me hanging running anything 3D for sure, but that's less important than being sure the system is running flawlessly. I just don't want to make a decision which doesn't need to be made.

My conundrum seems to focus primarily around RMAing what in all cases except this intermittent hard hang seems to be a perfectly functioning PSU, and hoping my card, which isn't showing any signs of issue other than the high temps and laggy frames it produced during the burn-in test (30 minutes in also, which is about the amount of time I can play before I suddenly black screen - when it does it) doesn't need to be replaced, as I didn't get it that long ago, maybe a year. Cards are expensive anymore, so spending 300 right now isn't in the cards for me, and it seems to work great for every other game I own, just certain ones I get this black-screen going on.

Sorry that this seems to be so convoluted. Anyway, any help or insight would be appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tora1337*


That is a pretty big post to digest, I assume this is in windows 7 (vista and 8 also apply)


----------



## sunset1

well from what i got from reading...
random reboots? bios might be set not to restart on power failure.
and video card gets smoking hot.

what is make and model of power supply?
is your video card under warranty?
I would tackle the video card temp issue then see if it still happens.
Im sorry i looked at specs but what processor are you running?

this may give people more information to help you.
also if the video card is not in warranty I would reseat the heatsink with some good tim.
just a thought.. good luck.
sunset1


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tora1337*
> 
> My house is old, and electrical hasn't been updated in a long time, so knowing how deficient it is in my house, and that I had this thing plugged into an extension cord with an adapter to allow 3 prong attachment (my wall sockets don't have 3 prongs, can you believe that? - Oh, and only room in the house that doesn't... ridiculous) So I unplug the adapter from the surge protection plug extender (it basically allows more things to be plugged into a single wall outlet than just two appliances) and swap the adapter over to another wall outlet closer to my computer and plug a surge protection power strip into it. Then plug the comp into the first plug available.


Do you have the ground lug of the two prong to three prong adapter that plugs into the wall outlet properly grounded?

Is the power cord extension of a heavy enough grade to allow the current flow required for what is hooked up to it?

Too small a cord "may" allow the computer to work, but may cause degradation of the copper conductor over time if of a substandard gauge.


----------



## Tora1337

Yeah, sorry, I was trying to give as much information as I thought was pertinent. I see a lot of 'my stuff is overheating/rebooting/black-screening... HALP!' posts, but they never give any information to work with, lol. Yes, I'm on 7 64-bit Home Premium.

Okay, the CPU I'm running is a AMD 955 Black revision C3.

My PSU is an Ultra Modular X-4 750 Watt.

It's not actually a reboot, it's a hard hang. which causes everything on the system to stop except my fans and power to the kb and mouse, though those don't actually function at that point they're just 'on'. I can't key the caps lock light, for instance, nothing responds. It just hangs, black screen, monitor shows 'no signal' message, and then it goes to yellow light. I have to hold the power button for 4 seconds to get it to shut down.

I didn't have any overheating issues with the card during bench-marking @ 1900x600 (native). It didn't get warmer than 82 degrees C (which some people would say is too warm, but it was bench-marking, it did stress it to 99% load), but during the burn in about a half hour in it suddenly spiked out of nowhere.

It is actually still under warranty. At first I thought it wasn't. But one of the reasons I bought the card, is EVGAs limited lifetime warranty of their products. I've never taken it apart, though I've seen people do that to rig in some nifty cooling solutions of the home-built sort, and of course, there's always store-bought solutions for cooling of the GPU.

I just played the game (Medal of Honor: Warfighter - I downclocked my CPU OC to stock 3.2 Ghz) and now the only real problem I'm having is the game is crashing or freezing at certain points, but I believe that's a net-code issue, not my system. Since I downclocked the OC, I haven't had a single black-screen. But I will say that I was looking at MSi Afterburner (I was using EVGA Precision with the card, till yesterday, but it seems to not really track the information correctly, or completely, like telling me outright my max temps. I don't understand that), and it showed that during my session the warmest my card got was 63 degrees. The highest my CPU has reached according to Core-Temp is 50.

I definitely need to look at why my CPU overclock would cause my system to black screen after a time, and why my GPU isn't holding up during longer sessions. By not holding up, I mean I get visual lag, and then I know it's going to happen and then bam, it happens, it goes all black screen on me.

Do you really think I need to reseat the heatsink with thermal paste again if under normal "non-burn-in" sessions it's not getting that hot?


----------



## Tora1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tora1337*
> 
> My house is old, and electrical hasn't been updated in a long time, so knowing how deficient it is in my house, and that I had this thing plugged into an extension cord with an adapter to allow 3 prong attachment (my wall sockets don't have 3 prongs, can you believe that? - Oh, and only room in the house that doesn't... ridiculous) So I unplug the adapter from the surge protection plug extender (it basically allows more things to be plugged into a single wall outlet than just two appliances) and swap the adapter over to another wall outlet closer to my computer and plug a surge protection power strip into it. Then plug the comp into the first plug available.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have the ground lug of the two prong to three prong adapter that plugs into the wall outlet properly grounded?
> 
> Is the power cord extension of a heavy enough grade to allow the current flow required for what is hooked up to it?
> 
> Too small a cord "may" allow the computer to work, but may cause degradation of the copper conductor over time if of a substandard gauge.
Click to expand...

Actually, I took that cord off. It was a simple two prong extension cord, and yeah, I foresaw that as being potentially an issue. I think what I'm going to have to do is kill power here, and find our 3 prong outlets and install one. Which will be fine, I know where one is, when we moved in, I intended to do that, but just haven't had time to do it, unfortunately. The adapter is one of those grey ones, that has a spot for the third prong, and I don't know if it's really 'grounded' per say, my power strip 'grounded' light isn't on, but I don't even know if it works. I don't recall it ever coming on. Even at the old place.

So now, the power strip is directly plugged into the adapter, and the adapter into the wall outlet. Long story short finally. And yeah, if I had a 12 gauge extension cord, such as I'd use in construction I'd use it, but I'm not sure where those are currently, but I think the best way is the way it is, till I can get the outlet swapped. I did realize that I was OC'ing my chip to a slight degree, requiring more power, and if there is something wrong with the adaptor now, it's not going to feed that power properly. So my best bet would likely be change the wall outlet to a properly grounded unit. Then see if it continues the behavior, while the CPU is somewhat overclocked. Right now, at stock clock, it's not exhibiting the behavior with intensive games.


----------



## SgtHawker

Usually the adapter has a ground lug ring or wire with terminal. Plug the adapter in the top outlet, and use the plate mount screw to connect either ground connector of the adapter to the outlet. If the outlet is installed properly your ground light should come on on the strip.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


----------



## sunset1

Getting the ground correct is the first order of buisness. i had a system die from not being grounded correctly once.

If you think its your overclock settings you may post your overclock here and some of they guys are very good at getting things dialed in. However I would try and resolve any other issues first.
I have seen unstable memory play a part in random issues . by default the sabertooth has ecc turned on. Make sure its turned off.
also make sure your memory is getting enough voltage per memory specs. Some run at 1.5 some at 1.65 etc. I think i would see some blue screens tho.
You could always run memtest and make sure.
If you did reseat tim with a lifetime warranty make sure you dont have to notify the manufacturer first.
I have 2 xfx cards and i had to sign in, make an account submit a ticket online and then i got the ok.
funny when i told them i was about to put a water block on my 2nd card a different tech said it was not possible or i would loose my warranty. I was like huh? So i referenced the origonal techs ticket number and a different tech emailed me and said i would be fine. Document document. :>
I only suggest reseating if you think its an issue... I usually go the extra step to be sure but thats up to you. Factory tim will dry up over time but if its fairly new.. you would assume its ok. but agan there have been times when it was not. Im just trying to think of any reason you might be having the issues.
Im not big into overclocking and dont have much experience in it but with the sabertooth i did a auto overlock in the bios. It took me a bit to find out how to do it tho.
This part probably should have been listed first but im 1/2 as*ed backwards :>
the power supply. After reading a all the posts in here once or twice i belive that the fx chips like tight voltage regulation. Figuring out if its the power supply is hard for me to do. i actually bought a decent refurbished power supply for those times when i thought it might be the issue. Im a little weak in this dept so bear with me. The guys that do high overclocks tend to look at everything. Vdrop is one term that some motherboards suffer from but from what i understand the sabertooth is known for great voltage controll. I asume that if the power suply has issues with tight voltage regulation it can cause problems especially in the fx chips. I used to think if a power supply turned on it worked.
then came dual rails and power hungry components. These days i tend to use a beefy power supply with one 12v rail. That way I know im getting the power i need.
i hung around in the power supply forum for a short time but there is a lot i need to learn.
I have been looking at these power supply testers but i dont know how well they work for determining tight voltage regulation. i wish i had more info here but i dont.
to recap fix ground.
run memtest and check memory voltage and make sure ecc is off if you dont have it.. Most dont.
Try and borrow a known good power supply from someone that has a similar setup. Or a real nice power supply.
when you get it stable at stock, post your overclock settings or ask for someone that has info for your setup. in the past the guys have really woked wonders.
The sabertooth fx is a great stable board. Hopefully thats not your issue. You can always call asus tech support ( I havent had to deal with them. )
my 8120 with 2133 muskin redline ram and a seasonic 750x gold power supply does an automatic overclock to 3888 up to 3981 or so. No issues at all. Never a blue screen or lockup.
anyway im outside and freezing.. :> good luck and let us know how things come out.


----------



## Tora1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*
> 
> Usually the adapter has a ground lug ring or wire with terminal. Plug the adapter in the top outlet, and use the plate mount screw to connect either ground connector of the adapter to the outlet. If the outlet is installed properly your ground light should come on on the strip.


Yeah, this one doesn't have that. That's one thing I noticed. I suppose I can create my own solution for that, by crimping a ground ring to a heavy gauge wire on each end and then screwing it to the mounting plate of the plug. This won't necessarily guarantee a ground if that screw doesn't ground though. But it's worth a shot. Conversely, I could have already degraded the adapter to a point that it provides too many Ohms to the main strip, not providing the power supply quite enough juice. This doesn't explain intermittent power drop offs on the main rail though. At least, it doesn't seem logical to me, perhaps it does.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> Getting the ground correct is the first order of buisness. i had a system die from not being grounded correctly once. .


Yeah, I'm actually afraid of doing to this system, it's taken me a few years to bring it to this point, as I don't have a lot discretionary income, and I'm in school, so can't afford to have it down because of something avoidable. So the first order, as you stated, and as SgtHawker is saying is get the ground issue handled. That's in the works.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> If you think its your overclock settings you may post your overclock here and some of they guys are very good at getting things dialed in. However I would try and resolve any other issues first. .


I'm not sure it's really my overclock settings. I've had the same profile running at the old house and didn't have this issue, and that was set up on the 500 watter, with this same power hungry card. It all does seem to point to the actual power feed, not the supply, now that I'm talking through it. I guess I was coming to this conclusion on my own, with all the outlet swaps I've been doing lately. It may really be coming to proper grounding, but we'll see, soon. I think they are contributing *now* because of other issues. But initially, it ran stable at a mild OC of 3.468 Ghz.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> I have seen unstable memory play a part in random issues . by default the sabertooth has ecc turned on. Make sure its turned off. also make sure your memory is getting enough voltage per memory specs. Some run at 1.5 some at 1.65 etc. I think i would see some blue screens tho. .


ECC is disabled in bios. The Mobo has read the RAM correctly and understands it doesn't have ECC and automatically disabled it. I did do a check to be sure that my timings were correct, and I believe the voltage is correct too, but I do need to redouble my check on that to be certain. I did notice something odd. Is it normal for timings of x-x-x-x to show a Jedec of different values, namely, my timings are 9-10-9-24, with a JEDEC of 11-11-11-24. Is that right? That's what I'm reading in BIOS when I'm in there, and it concerns me. I'm wondering if that doesn't have to match the main timings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> You could always run memtest and make sure. .


Been there and done that and through the entire test not one error on either stick. I did come in here and find that I have to run a single stick at a time, or swap the sticks around, such that the one tested is the one in slot Dimm1 (second slot) so that it would test correctly. But both times, I watched closely and found no errors.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> Im not big into overclocking and dont have much experience in it but with the sabertooth i did a auto overlock in the bios. It took me a bit to find out how to do it tho. This part probably should have been listed first but im 1/2 as*ed backwards :>.


I did the same overclock, and that runs stable, most of the time. It just seems to not be stable at the moment, and I don't understand currently. The power supply is like a month and a half old. Not long operating, and it's high-end in regards to quality. The reviews I read show that it has more than enough, that it's over-designed, basically. They did a test on one that was 100 watts heavier duty than mine, an 850 and showed it theoretically capable of pushing some 2500 watts.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> the power supply. After reading a all the posts in here once or twice i belive that the fx chips like tight voltage regulation. Figuring out if its the power supply is hard for me to do. i actually bought a decent refurbished power supply for those times when i thought it might be the issue. Im a little weak in this dept so bear with me. The guys that do high overclocks tend to look at everything. Vdrop is one term that some motherboards suffer from but from what i understand the sabertooth is known for great voltage controll. I asume that if the power suply has issues with tight voltage regulation it can cause problems especially in the fx chips. I used to think if a power supply turned on it worked. then came dual rails and power hungry components. These days i tend to use a beefy power supply with one 12v rail. That way I know im getting the power i need.
> i hung around in the power supply forum for a short time but there is a lot i need to learn..


Yeah, mine is a single rail. I read about the dangers of switching supplies, that they don't provide the same amount of wattage across all rails and such, and sometimes, it takes more than one rail to equate to the power you need for a given component, and I didn't find that too reassuring. Mine is a single rail design.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> Try and borrow a known good power supply from someone that has a similar setup. Or a real nice power supply. when you get it stable at stock, post your overclock settings or ask for someone that has info for your setup. in the past the guys have really woked wonders.
> The sabertooth fx is a great stable board. Hopefully thats not your issue. You can always call asus tech support ( I havent had to deal with them. )
> my 8120 with 2133 muskin redline ram and a seasonic 750x gold power supply does an automatic overclock to 3888 up to 3981 or so. No issues at all. Never a blue screen or lockup.
> anyway im outside and freezing.. :> good luck and let us know how things come out.


Yeah, this is why I'm seriously thinking that it's the actual feed through the house, and not the PSU. However, calling up someone from Ultra and getting some answers might also be good to do, and of course, getting that ground situation sorted is definitely the first thing to do. Thanks guys for talking to me about this.


----------



## Tora1337

An update: Turns out the adapter did have the ground ring, I just failed to see that when I plugged it in. The screw doesn't go all the way in, but it's in tight enough that it holds the adapter in, it won't come out, hopefully that is grounding. But as suspected, the grounded light on the strip didn't come on. So it's either not actually grounding (which is bad) or the strip has a bad light (not so bad, but misleading).

I'm including (I re-auto-clocked this, by choosing the performance icon to the right of the standard balanced performance, quiet and power saving icon in the BIOS UEFI), and did this after fixing some things.

Fixes:

Grounded? the adapter plug via cover-plate screw.

Entered BIOS and adjusted timings to reflect that of DRAM Manufacturer site: 9-9-9-24 (I'm unsure of the significance of '2N' which follows those values).

Reset the comp, and then checked the voltage 'test' number value, and then restarted and reentered BIOS UEFI Advanced mode. Under AI Tweaker, I scrolled to the bottom to find that my voltage was set to 1.505 or some such.

Adjusted voltage according to DRAM Manufacturer "Test" spec of: 1.25000

It's possible voltages were set to high in BIOS? Odd thing is that it's been this way since I put the RAM in, so I'm unsure if that's an issue. However, if there is a power feed problem, this might help to correct it. I'm including an image with this post, which indicates the values given by 3 different applications as to my computer's state at the moment. The applications are HWMonitor, ASUS AI and Core-Temp.



Note that there are discrepencies in voltage values between AI and HWMonitor, and I'm not sure which to believe. Temperatures however, do run within a discrepency range +/- 5-7 degrees of one another most times under OC conditions with this system, and I've learned to pretty much go with the AI temps. I'm not sure why HWMonitor would show differing voltages from AI, as it should be reading this from the same place, but maybe not? If anyone can find issues here, clues to why the system is acting the way it is, that'd be great. So far, all the values seem to be the same as before I screwed the adapter into the face plate of the wall outlet. Which leads me to believe that all that does is hold it in place, doesn't really ground it, but I could be wrong about that and the plug may not be properly grounded out the way it's meant to be, which will indicate a need to change it out. Thanks again guys, you're a great help.


----------



## sunset1

I was going to reccomend one of those ground testers but after reading the article it seems it can give misleading info if the two prong outlet was not wired correctly... read the whole article then have a qualified electrician look at it.. Im actually going to check my computer outlet so i can plug in my ups. This is one of those "grey' areas that never gets mentioned but I dont know of a better link for information.
sorry if this post is getting off topic.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cheater_plug

I dont think this will effect your voltages. From what i understand.. ( im not an electrician) and just reading articles the ground lug protects you from an equiptment short so you dont get electricuted.
while not pretty, the safest way is to just run a 3 prong heavy extension cord to a grounded outlet till you get it checked out.

Now computer stuff.. how are the video card temps? are you getting any artifacts?
on the memory 1.5v is the default but some of the new memory sticks have a smaller chip like the samsung memory and runs at lower voltage. I can see how running too much voltage thu them could cause instability but im not sure what the recomended overvoltage on those chips are. Just leave them stock or 1.25 till all issues are gone. also like mentioned before make sure ecc is turned off as this is for server memory that most of us dont have. ( unless you know you have ecc memory which is $$.

I have referred back to your post a few times but i cant see it when im typing on my ipad,
is the system stable now?
if not what issues are you currently having.. It may take a little run time for any to show up.
changing the memory voltage should help out.
as far as different readings in utilities from what i have read that is pretty common.
If anyone has different ideas please chime in. :>
sunset1


----------



## Tora1337

Well, I've run a couple hours consistent, and other than odd frame rates (which is what I expect anymore from MWO (MechWarriorOnline - they like to fluctuate up and down constantly depending on where I'm facing) I'm not seeing any major issues just yet. But then, I usually don't until I relax and then it pounces me like an ambush. I'm going to run the one game that seemed to have the most trouble, which is the Medal of Honor: Warfighter game and see if this is a problem from that. Usually, what happens is I get really laggy visually when running that game after a couple - few matches, and then when I see the lag, I just cringe because about 10 seconds later, or less the system just suddenly locks up. Probably more like 5 seconds, but it seems like it drags on like I'm lagging, lol. Anyway, I think that's because I know it's going to happen. Everything goes all slow-mo in my head and I'm like "NNnnnooooooo!" Anyway, I don't know if tabbing out of game would stop it or not, usually I notice if I tab out of game, my GPU just goes back to normal 'non-game-running' operation. So that's something to keep in mind. Perhaps I'll try a quick tab-out when I see something amiss, just to see if I can catch something on the monitoring apps.

Now on the ground unit testers, yeah, I read that part too. That it can be misleading if it's not wired correctly. I'm concerned about the running an extension cord, because like a space heater, a comp can draw a lot of power. I'm concerned about distances that power has to travel to the computer, and whether or not it's not going to burn out the wire over a distance. This of course, will cause a short, and who knows what damage to the computer. Other than that, I can see how that might be my best bet in that regard, I can run a test on an extension cord, monitor voltages and such and see if there's any change. The lowest my voltages have gotten thus far on the 12 volt rail are 11.58. I do not know if that's within tolerance. however it typically runs between 11.63 and 11.83 according to HWMonitor and AI is showing voltages of 12.199 and 11.993. It is usually somewhere around 12.054 or 12.093. It just intermittently jumps up and down, which I find weird, because I'll just be in the desktop, observing this weird choppy behavior.

Now on that note, my PSU is protected from both over and under voltage. When those safeties trip, does the PSU automatically reset, does it actually cause complete shut-down or is it normal for peripheral items to maintain power? This is a central question I think to determining if it's even PSU related, or simply something that is causing my computer to stop its processes.

So far, to answer your other questions: GPU temps have been nominal. 64C is the highest it's currently gotten under load from MWO and that's with Long Range Missiles from missile boat builds flying all over the place and lasers pew pewing all in my face consistently and with me running around at 115kph in circles. The game typically tracks energy, ballistic and missile weapons systems from every player on the map, and so that's a pretty decent load. Temps have been really good. The warmest my CPU has gotten is 65C at OC settings. Which is pretty much as warm as I'd ever like to see it.

Though I've seen it cooler, and wonder if maybe I'm not having a cooling issue as I'm on an H80.

Other than that, no issues. My main concern was this odd time out, causing the black-screen and buzzing, which I heard somewhere can actually be a win 7 issue also, because win 8 is supposed to stop the 'take too long to process, override and hard hang' issue that win 7 has been known to exhibit. It's a problem that hails back to XP, and they're supposed to be fixing the way it operates in Win 8. It's coming down to maybe, just maybe, less of a power issue, or voltage issue on any level and maybe an OS issue. Time to do a repair install or wait for Win 8 to make it's debut. Not that I'll ever use it for anything other than a desktop interface, but still, maybe someday when monitors get all touchy feely I might have more of a use for its other features. That's nothing to do with now though. Right now, it hasn't done a hard hang, but I only gamed for a couple hours, and the matches weren't back to back. Going to check out MOH:W and see if *it* forces the issue on current settings.

Will update soon. Thanks again.


----------



## sunset1

since you moved have you checked out your ambient temps? maybe its just hotter in that room. just a quick thought.
anyway you seem to know your stuff so good luck.


----------



## Tora1337

Seem to is the key phrase here. Everywhere I turn, there's something new to learn, lol. Yeah, I tend to make it my business of sorts to know what I need to. I don't like relying on other people, but am sure glad when there are groups like this, that have more extensive and even variant experience to my own. Most of what I know, is largely just research done and listening to other people that pose similar questions.

Thanks for the good luck bit too. Okay, the update is as follows. I had the game crash, but since grounding(? - not even sure if it is, lol) and changing the voltages on the memory and also adjusting them to the proper manufacturer timings (they are the sort that uses less voltage incidentally) it hasn't black screened. I am now thinking that with the voltages somewhat higher, it was maybe trying to rob some essential voltage from somewhere else, like maybe the HDD and causing the crash. That I can't be sure of though, for some time with just observation and continuous strain to the system. But I managed to play for an hour and a half without a crash, and that seems to be a game issue, not my system because it didn't lock the system due to game crash, which is fortunate. I guess time will tell and I'll continue looking for solutions to lower temps even further and further stabilize any power issues I've already brought up. Thanks guys.


----------



## SgtHawker

If you have a volt meter, you can read voltages in your power strip from hot to neutral, neutral to ground, and hot to ground to verify if you are grounded. H to N should be 120V, N to G should be near 0, and H to G should be 120V.

Hope it all works out. I may be offline for a while, I'm in the New Jersey awaiting Sandy's arrival.


----------



## reaperUK

Hi guys, just thought i,d post a good luck to all you fellas on the eastern seaboard regarding hurricane sandy, hope you all keep safe.


----------



## bmgjet

Just got my sabertooth 2.0 and have some question,
Sorry if its been covered before but I dont have much time on the comptuer in the next 24 hours and want to get this sorted soon.

How do you get the two brown pci-e ports to run in 16X in crossfire.
For some reason it will only run at 4X on pcie_1 and 16X on pcie_3 and both these cards worked perfectly in my UD3.

Secondaly how can you control the CPU fan headder by voltage only.
Iv got A syth 3Krpm fan hooked up to it and its only a 3 pin fan so with Qfan enabled in bios its always full speed and with it disabled its always full speed. The AI should makes no difference to the speed when I change settings.

Other then those two problems Im liking the board.
Ram will do better timings on same voltage
CPU will do higher frequence on less voltage
Compared to my UD3 R1


----------



## hellboy99

Anyone know if the Rev.1 board will get full Win 8 driver/software support from ASUS. I'm having to rollback to Win 7 as I've no Thermal controls, FanXpert etc... under Win 8. Bit of a let down as the store where I purchased this from said it would have full support under Win 8


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellboy99*
> 
> Anyone know if the Rev.1 board will get full Win 8 driver/software support from ASUS. I'm having to rollback to Win 7 as I've no Thermal controls, FanXpert etc... under Win 8. Bit of a let down as the store where I purchased this from said it would have full support under Win 8


You should be able to find the software you need from Asus and 3rd party sites, I have found win8 usb3 drivers for this board elsewhere and many of the Asus apps for the rev 2.0 will run on the rev1. The main software difference between these boards is the sata external controller change from the jmb362 sata2 to asmedia sata3, and the rev2 has more usb3.0 rear ports, but still an asmedia controller like rev1.

Also same amd chipset drivers from amd's site, same sound controller (ALC 892), Ethernet changed from 1111E to 1111F, drivers for the sound and Ethernet controllers can be found on realtek's site, just look for HD codec and Ethernet drivers.

As far as drivers go, I almost never use what is provided by the board makers, they are usually really old. As for apps, often the newer versions of them end up on the newer boards but still work on the older boards just dandy.


----------



## Raven.7

What the hell...ASUS took down the latest BIOS update for R2.0 from their site...

I was thinking of re-flashing my motherboard.


----------



## Krusher33

They probably have been getting reports and found something and that's why you're having issues with your overclocks?

It would be funny if their plan kinda backfired on them showing that the 1st version does better overclocking than the R2.0 ones. Not funny for those that bought the R2's but still... I'm sure they'll smooth things out because of the investments they've put into it already.


----------



## sunset1

@bmgjet nice to see you in the club...btw thanks for all of your help in the red-mod section..
Im on my ipad right now but if this doesnt get answered soon Ill try to jump to the pc and find the settings... for the fan controll. One is in ai suite the other is in the bios.. if i remember correctly.
for those of you that dont know bmgjet is the OP in the red-mod forum.
sunset1


----------



## hellboy99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raven.7*
> 
> What the hell...ASUS took down the latest BIOS update for R2.0 from their site...
> I was thinking of re-flashing my motherboard.


I updated to the 1604 BIOS last night on my Rev.1 and now I can't get the ASUS Suite to install, meaning I've no thermal or fan control.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellboy99*
> 
> I updated to the 1604 BIOS last night on my Rev.1 and now I can't get the ASUS Suite to install, meaning I've no thermal or fan control.


I have never used Asus suite for fan control. It was always buggy and didn't work well. I allow my H100 to control the rad fans. Hopefully your fans are running 100% and not at all


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellboy99*
> 
> I updated to the 1604 BIOS last night on my Rev.1 and now I can't get the ASUS Suite to install, meaning I've no thermal or fan control.


Works fine on my board


----------



## hellboy99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> I have never used Asus suite for fan control. It was always buggy and didn't work well. I allow my H100 to control the rad fans. Hopefully your fans are running 100% and not at all


Fans for me worked fine using their fan control. My fans are running at 100% now, thats my problem, they don't need to be.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> Works fine on my board


OK, wonder what the hell is up with mine then, can I roll back the BIOS?


----------



## hellboy99

Just found a work around on the ASUS forum to get ASUS Suite installed, you have to install the USB 3 boost program first and then the Suite will install, bit odd but at least it works.

Everything works fine now again on Win 7, the suite will install on Win 8 but the thermal and fanxpert software will not install even if you try to install using compatibility mode.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> many of the Asus apps for the rev 2.0 will run on the rev1


Gave what you said a go, installed the ASUS Suite for the Rev 2 and I'm all up and running now, thermal and fan control working perfect


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellboy99*
> 
> Just found a work around on the ASUS forum to get ASUS Suite installed, you have to install the USB 3 boost program first and then the Suite will install, bit odd but at least it works.


Good find. I had installed that USB3 boost first myself because I did it at the same time as the initial USB driver install. So that would be why I had no problems.


----------



## bmgjet

Fixed pci-e speed problem, Had to downgrade off the beta bios.
Still cant find any way to control the 3pin fan speed tho. Had to unplug a fan and run the other on a 5V molex adapter so the sound doesnt kill me.

Hope they fix the bios they pulled soon, Thats the second reason I hated the UD3 and would hate to be with another board with bad bioses.


----------



## sunset1

@bmgjet sorry for the delay ill jump on my pc and see if i can help. Getting over a horrible cold.
sunset1


----------



## Norelec

Quick question I have the R1 board and the bios ver is 901 is it better to do the updates one after the other untill the lattest or can i just jump to the lattest.


----------



## hellboy99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Norelec*
> 
> Quick question I have the R1 board and the bios ver is 901 is it better to do the updates one after the other untill the lattest or can i just jump to the lattest.


I just jumped to the latest when I got my R1


----------



## sunset1

@Bmgjet here is the link that explains thermal radar.. you can set profiles... took me a bit to understand it .. i wish i would have had this link.
http://event.asus.com/2011/mb/TUF/TUF_Tech_2.htm
I think there is a setting in bios ill check next.


----------



## Norelec

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellboy99*
> 
> I just jumped to the latest when I got my R1


Thanx man will save me a lot of time


----------



## bmgjet

Been playing with that and it makes no changes to my 3pin fan. If I plug the factory 4pin fans in it works on them so I guess its only PWM control and not voltage.
Ill just have to wire a pot into the cords so I can adjust them manually since even at half speed they keep the cpu under 60C.


----------



## sunset1

well there is a setting in the bios under advanced/ monitor tab on top/ q fan? there are manual settings for cpu and i think chassis that maybe required for it to work. its hard for me to tell cus i have a cold ( ears clogged up) and i have quiet fans. My fans used to run at full speed till i changed a setting. Im sure you have seen the bios one too many times but it may be worth a look. I have the opposite problem setting it so my fans spin fast enough. I had turned everything off thinking it was a cool and quiet value. But now i have all that on anyway. If i get some time ill try to slow them down as they are 3 pin fans.
sunset1


----------



## bmgjet

Ill keep looking but iv tried pritty much every setting.
Maybe thats another bug with the 1006 bios.

Cool and quite work work either,
Only have two options.

Disable
Disable by CPU.

And with Disable by CPU it never came on over the few hours I left my PC on with 0 load.


----------



## sunset1

in my opinion its not in the right place that you would think.. it in the monitor tab. and you have to set the option to manual from auto/turbo to get it to show you the additional boxes. Im not sure of how to take a dos printscreen so i can print.. doh.. otherwise i would have.
grub time ill take a look at it later.


----------



## bmgjet

I know the screen, Have to scroll down in monitor page past the voltages. Then in manual it gets you high and low thresh hold and max/min duty cycle.
Which is all PWM controlled stuff.
Tried all the different fan headders but none will allow voltage control.

But found a way around it.
Have my CPU 3Krpm fans plugged into my 2X 620 power connections which are on my 2X GFX cards.
25-30C which they idle around gives me 1000-1400rpm on the fans so its not too loud. 55-57dB
And even just at that speed keeps the CPU cool enough that I can run cinebench and do every day tasks.
Then when I load up BF3 and GFX temp gets over 40C the fans speed up to 2600-2800 which isnt full speed but keeps the cpu really cool.

Then I have the 920 fan controller controlling the fans on the gfx cards radiators since it wont control 3 pin plugs and I have the factory 920 fans on the 620 radiators.

All the pumps are powered straight off a molex adapter to keep them full speed.
2 side fans go the fan headder under the VRMs.
And I have a factory 4pin amd fan in the CPU fan headder blowing on the VRM which is controlled properly by Qfan and gets rid of the no cpu fan error on boot lol.


----------



## sunset1

i figured you had tried everything but i didnt want to leave you hangin.. nice solution tho...


----------



## TheMainJam

hey guys just got windows 8 and tried to install it. i cant install with raid at all.

asus has no driver for windows 8 and amd says it does but for some reason the driver doesn't install with their suite.

ahcix64s is no where to be found in my regedit.
i can install no issue with IDE. i was able to install with AHCI by loading the windows 7 64bit driver at install.. but could not get raid to work either way.

so now i cant even do the registry tweak and restart to set it to raid because ahcix64s is not there.

anyone have any ideas? should i wait for the drivers to catch up? i really need raid as thats where all my data is... and porn.

haha thanks for any ideas.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMainJam*
> 
> hey guys just got windows 8 and tried to install it. i cant install with raid at all.
> asus has no driver for windows 8 and amd says it does but for some reason the driver doesn't install with their suite.
> ahcix64s is no where to be found in my regedit.
> i can install no issue with IDE. i was able to install with AHCI by loading the windows 7 64bit driver at install.. but could not get raid to work either way.
> so now i cant even do the registry tweak and restart to set it to raid because ahcix64s is not there.
> anyone have any ideas? should i wait for the drivers to catch up? i really need raid as thats where all my data is... and porn.
> haha thanks for any ideas.


Use the drivers from amd's site, don't bother with the old junk asus carries half the time.
http://support.amd.com/us/gpudownload/windows/Pages/raid_windows.aspx


----------



## hellboy99

Just got the following from ASUS with regards to WIN 8 support for the R1:
Quote:


> Dear Valued Customer,
> 
> Thank you for contacting ASUS Customer Service.
> 
> My name is **** and it's my pleasure to help you with your problem.
> 
> Unfortunately, we do not support win 8 for this version.
> It is SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0.
> You can try the dirves on R2.0 version, but we cannot asure compability.
> http://support.asus.com.cn/Download.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=SABERTOOTH+990FX+R2.0&p=1&s=24
> 
> Welcome to refer Troubleshooting & FAQ for ASUS products in ASUS website:
> http://support.asus.com/servicehome.aspx?SLanguage=en
> 
> If you continue to experience issues in the future, please do not hesitate to contact us.
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> ****


I got more help here on this forum than I did/will from ASUS.


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah, ASUS has awesome products but it's at the cost of their Customer Service skills.


----------



## Solders18

But it was sure nice of them to confirm that they're not compatible!


----------



## sunset1

@soldiers18i hate to say it but i have seen posts from tech support that are incorrect. Im not saying this is but double check a different source. There is also a raid forum that will have the latest and greatest knowlege in this area. OCN techs for the most part have hands on knowlege on what works and doesnt work.
Btw cool avatar. ;>


----------



## wolvers

Woop! I'm in the club.









Which BIOS would you guys recommend? Got an 8320 to plug in it.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> Woop! I'm in the club.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which BIOS would you guys recommend? Got an 8320 to plug in it.


Rev1 boards: 1604.

Not sure on the Rev2 boards.


----------



## wolvers

Mine's an R2. Should I just let Asus update do it's thing, or have one ready on a USB stick to flash on first boot?


----------



## Krusher33

I never tried ASUS auto-update thingy because my experience with MSI's was so horrible that I've just decided to never go that route anymore. But that was several years ago...


----------



## wolvers

I've not had an Asus board for a couple of years, but the Gigabyte one (@bios?) is very good in my experience, which is why I was considering it.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> I've not had an Asus board for a couple of years, but the Gigabyte one (@bios?) is very good in my experience, which is why I was considering it.


Rev2 is supposed to be 1006 for vishera support, but it was pulled from the site for no apparent reason.


----------



## migsutu

Does anyone have a link or way to get the 1006 bios for the R2 boards? I was supposed to do an install today with an 8350, but with the bios not available now, no options, I have gone to the asus worldwide site and the tw site as well, but it looks like they pulled it everywhere. Despite whatever issues it had, I would still like to flash it and get the system up and running, and reflash when they corrected whatever bugs made them pull it in the first place.


----------



## Satanello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *migsutu*
> 
> Does anyone have a link or way to get the 1006 bios for the R2 boards? I was supposed to do an install today with an 8350, but with the bios not available now, no options, I have gone to the asus worldwide site and the tw site as well, but it looks like they pulled it everywhere. Despite whatever issues it had, I would still like to flash it and get the system up and running, and reflash when they corrected whatever bugs made them pull it in the first place.


I downloaded and flashed 1006 bios some days ago but i'm using x2 cpu (there's no 8350 cpu in italian shops..)
If you need this bios i can send it to your mail address!
;-)

Inviato dal mio MZ601 con Tapatalk 2


----------



## wolvers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Satanello*
> 
> I downloaded and flashed 1006 bios some days ago but i'm using x2 cpu (there's no 8350 cpu in italian shops..)
> If you need this bios i can send it to your mail address!
> ;-)
> Inviato dal mio MZ601 con Tapatalk 2


Yeah, great. Please send it to me.


----------



## yawor

hi,
i am new to the forums and i really didn't want to read all 330 pages of this topic so i will just ask the question and hopefully get an answer








what are the acceptable (safe) temperature values for vcore1 and vcore2 for sabertooth 990fx?
my setup:
MB Sabertooth 990fx
CPU AMD Phenom II X4 955 @3800MHz with Mugen II revB
4x 4GB Kingston HyperX KHX1600C9D3/4GX
GeForce GTS 450
i am using obsidian 800d case with all case fans (1 back blowing out, 1 on top blowing out).
my temps under stress with prime95:
cpu 57*C
MB 31*C
vcore1 67*C
vcore2 61*C

the vcore1 temp is usually ~10 degrees higher than the cpu temp. is that normal?


----------



## bmgjet

Iv still got the 1006 bios for R2 as well so if you PM me your email ill send it to you.


----------



## 12Cores

Has anyone been able to hit 5ghz stable with the Rev 1 board under 1.5v with a 8350/8320 if so can you post your settings.


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *migsutu*
> 
> Does anyone have a link or way to get the 1006 bios for the R2 boards? I was supposed to do an install today with an 8350, but with the bios not available now, no options, I have gone to the asus worldwide site and the tw site as well, but it looks like they pulled it everywhere. Despite whatever issues it had, I would still like to flash it and get the system up and running, and reflash when they corrected whatever bugs made them pull it in the first place.


Just try and use the latest bios. Although it doesnt specifically say Piledriver support, it will probably still work. When bugs are sorted out you can then flash the newest official support bios when it is available.


----------



## hellboy99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Yeah, ASUS has awesome products but it's at the cost of their Customer Service skills.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> But it was sure nice of them to confirm that they're not compatible!


I put it to them with regards to the first email I got stating that the R1 would not be supported for Win 8, I basically said that if the R1 did not support Win 8 then why under their support downloads is Win 8 listed with some drivers and software available to download, here's the reply I got this morning:
Quote:


> Dear Valued Customer,
> 
> It is a beta support, there is just some beta drives.
> We have a SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 version, this board suppots win 8.
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> ****


So now it's gone from "no support" to "some BETA support" to buy the R2, some after sales support this is


----------



## shampoo911

gents... i recently upgraded my rig... bought a noctua nhd14 and a second 6970... however i am concerned for 2 things...

*temps...* in HWMONITOR, cpu temp hits almost 63°C on full load... is that safe?? (im running my 8150 @4.7ghz with 1.4375v on bios, no LLC, 120% current)
NB/CPU is @ 2600mhz (no LLC, 120% current)

will i fry my cpu with those temps?

secondly... my crossfire...

first pcie slot is running @8x according to gpu-z
third pcie slot is running @16x according to gpu-z

wth is going wrong?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> gents... i recently upgraded my rig... bought a noctua nhd14 and a second 6970... however i am concerned for 2 things...
> 
> *temps...* in HWMONITOR, cpu temp hits almost 63°C on full load... is that safe?? (im running my 8150 @4.7ghz with 1.4375v on bios, no LLC, 120% current)
> NB/CPU is @ 2600mhz (no LLC, 120% current)
> 
> will i fry my cpu with those temps?


If those are temps when using Prime or IBT then you're fine. 62c is the "safety net" max temp according to AMD. Their silicon and adhesives can handle up to 98c before degrading.
Quote:


> secondly... my crossfire...
> 
> first pcie slot is running @8x according to gpu-z
> third pcie slot is running @16x according to gpu-z
> 
> wth is going wrong?


That is pretty weird...


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellboy99*
> 
> I put it to them with regards to the first email I got stating that the R1 would not be supported for Win 8, I basically said that if the R1 did not support Win 8 then why under their support downloads is Win 8 listed with some drivers and software available to download, here's the reply I got this morning:
> So now it's gone from "no support" to "some BETA support" to buy the R2, some after sales support this is


Email them asking where the rev2.0 1006 bios went which is the Piledriver/Vishera/6xx/83xx support update. Since you know, they insisted at first the rev2.0's were needed for it, yet now only the rev1's have the bios for them. : /


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> first pcie slot is running @8x according to gpu-z
> third pcie slot is running @16x according to gpu-z
> wth is going wrong?


PCI-E slots will sometimes downclock to save power. When something 3D is being displayed or the GPU enters the fastest PState the slot will clock back up to x16 2.0

It wont always downclock, it depends on your settings


----------



## Raephen

Hi everyone,

Since a few weeks I'm the proud owner of one of these green kittens.

I'm watercooling my FX-4170 chip and cpu temp doesn't seem to be an issue anymore (max under P95 I've seen so far doesn't break 50 C - a session of Skyrim never gets the temperature higher than 40 C).

The temperature that has got me scratching my head right now is Vcore-1. When stress testing my overclock and that one hits 57ish C for 20 / 30 minutes, my CPU starts throttling down.

Maybe this has been asked already, but does anyone know of a waterblock / vrm + nb waterblock combo that would fit the 990FX Sabertooth?

Here's a few pictures of my monster:


----------



## Krusher33

A month ago there still wasn't one. They only had it for the Intel Sabertooths. You can get universal fits but I became confused to which one to get that I didn't pursue it anymore.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> gents... i recently upgraded my rig... bought a noctua nhd14 and a second 6970... however i am concerned for 2 things...
> *temps...* in HWMONITOR, cpu temp hits almost 63°C on full load... is that safe?? (im running my 8150 @4.7ghz with 1.4375v on bios, no LLC, 120% current)
> NB/CPU is @ 2600mhz (no LLC, 120% current)
> will i fry my cpu with those temps?
> secondly... my crossfire...
> first pcie slot is running @8x according to gpu-z
> third pcie slot is running @16x according to gpu-z
> wth is going wrong?


is that cpu temp or core temp? and can anyone provide input to whether the fx series has the same offset in cpu and core temps like the phenom's did?


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> is that cpu temp or core temp? and can anyone provide input to whether the fx series has the same offset in cpu and core temps like the phenom's did?


cpu temp man...


----------



## shampoo911

gents... problem solved...

reason: overvolting that s***... now im running 4.7ghz with 1.38v


----------



## thor2002ro

Hi,
I have a little dilemma I have the sabertooth R.1 and I currently have 2x500gb hdds in raid0 an I'm thinking of moving my os to a ssd but in bios it doesn't allow me to switch any controller to AHCI without loosing raid... my question is this ... will it be a problem with the ssd while the controller is in raid mode...?


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thor2002ro*
> 
> Hi,
> I have a little dilemma I have the sabertooth R.1 and I currently have 2x500gb hdds in raid0 an I'm thinking of moving my os to a ssd but in bios it doesn't allow me to switch any controller to AHCI without loosing raid... my question is this ... will it be a problem with the ssd while the controller is in raid mode...?


Raid does act as AHCI mode on amd controllers (just with raid options), so no need to switch from raid to ahci, but I am unsure if trim is supported yet on the amd raid side which you would want for ssd's.


----------



## Raephen

Ah well, I guess I'll try a 60mm fan right above the vrm section first before figuring out which waterblocks might do the trick (already did some research, but found no clear data).

I have enough room to fit a 60mm fan between my top radiator and the motherboard panel in my FD Arc Midi, and who knows: maybe the small amount of airflow *could* help a bit.

I've not been watercooling that long, and having the extra temperature sensors the Sabertooth has still takes some getting used to: it just freaky to no longer have either the cpu or the gpu as the part which runs hottest.

Maybe this was also the case in my M5A99X EVO, but that lacked the sensors to tell me.

Cheers!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> A month ago there still wasn't one. They only had it for the Intel Sabertooths. You can get universal fits but I became confused to which one to get that I didn't pursue it anymore.


----------



## thor2002ro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> Raid does act as AHCI mode on amd controllers (just with raid options), so no need to switch from raid to ahci, but I am unsure if trim is supported yet on the amd raid side which you would want for ssd's.


seams I found my answer http://www.overclock.net/t/1272788/trim-work-in-raid-mode

Thanks for the help


----------



## sunset1

thanks for the link.. i have seen this question before. :>


----------



## Satanello

Hi guys, excuse me for the delay!

I uploaded the Sabertooth r2.0 bios rev 1006 in my Dropbox public account, you can dowload the file here:

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/90015569/SABERTOOTH-990FX-R20-ASUS-1006.zip

It runs well in my config (but now i'm using an x2 cpu)!


----------



## jzohng

hi guys

i want to buy ram for my asus sabertooth 990fx motherboard and i want a total of 16gigs of ram. i see the document showing qualified ram for it. i wanted to know if i can use a 8gig (2x4gig) and another 8gig (2x4gig) sticks for a total of 16gigs. or do i have to get a 16gig stick pack that has (4x4gig) gig sticks?

2 packs of these CORSAIR CMX8GX3M2A1333C9(XMP) 8GB ( 2x 4GB )

or 1 pack of this? CORSAIR CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9(XMP) 16GB ( 4x 4GB )

i hope this is not confusing. im hoping i can get the two 8gig packs instead of the one 16gig pack.


----------



## sunset1

@jzohng when i bought my sabertooth 990fx rev 1 i went to the memory manufacturer ( mushkin) and asked if my current memory which was not on the list would work in the system. It was 2133 redline.
They were able to give me suggested timings for the slower speeds..
I would contact corsair.
I dont remember if the sabertooth 2.0 supports 32gig or not.
if that was something you were looking at in the future it might be an option with the 2x8.
If overclocking is more important 4x4 would allow you to put in 2 sticks and possibly get a faster overclock and still allow for adding two sticks.
either way i would contact corsair unless someone posts it works fine.
I have seen many brands people have listed in the forums that are not on the qualified list.
I can say that faster ram in my case works fine. I never have a blue screen or lockup. But then i only auto overclock.


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jzohng*
> 
> hi guys
> i want to buy ram for my asus sabertooth 990fx motherboard and i want a total of 16gigs of ram. i see the document showing qualified ram for it. i wanted to know if i can use a 8gig (2x4gig) and another 8gig (2x4gig) sticks for a total of 16gigs. or do i have to get a 16gig stick pack that has (4x4gig) gig sticks?
> 2 packs of these CORSAIR CMX8GX3M2A1333C9(XMP) 8GB ( 2x 4GB )
> or 1 pack of this? CORSAIR CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9(XMP) 16GB ( 4x 4GB )
> i hope this is not confusing. im hoping i can get the two 8gig packs instead of the one 16gig pack.


yes you can use ether but ram in 2 chip sets are better than 4 chips

I have had CORSAIR before but I like G.Skill better

I would recommend ram with a frequency of 2133 mhz or more

Like these

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007611%20600006072%20600006142%20600006157&IsNodeId=1&bop=And&ShowDeactivatedMark=False&CompareItemList=147%7C20%2D231%2D571%5E20%2D231%2D571%2DTS%2C20%2D231%2D617%5E20%2D231%2D617%2DTS


----------



## endevite

In regards to memory on these 83xx chips, 2133 memory doesn't mean better than 1600 unless it has seriously tight timings. I found 7-8-7-20-1t @ 1600 beats my memory at 1866 and 2133 simply because I cannot time them low enough to beat the super low timed 1600 setup. So my advice is get ram that times well, either really low at 1600 or moderately low on higher clocks.

Note: I use ripjawsX 2133 memory @ 1600 with 7-8-7-20-1t timings @ 1.65v.

Link to what I managed:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club/2320#post_18519344


----------



## sunset1

@endevite perfect post. Obviously running at max settings isnt always the fastest. however the faster memory alows for future use and hopefully tighter timings at lower speeds.
Thats a nice clock on air.. how do you like the performance of the 8350 or have you had enough time to play with it enough? These kind of posts really make it eaier for techs like myself that havent overclocked much to get the most out of our sytems.









@tweaky isnt it harder to get 8 gig modules to overclock than 4 gig modules in general? I ask this because I was under the impression that if i had 4 modules in a matched kit im thinking that some may perform better than others and if i want to 2 x 8 gig modules while i have better upgrade options i thought it would be harder to get them to perform as well as the 4 gig modules.
I value different opinions on this but i realize that not all similar sticks have the same overlcoking potiential.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> @endevite perfect post. Obviously running at max settings isnt always the fastest. however the faster memory alows for future use and hopefully tighter timings at lower speeds.
> Thats a nice clock on air.. how do you like the performance of the 8350 or have you had enough time to play with it enough? These kind of posts really make it eaier for techs like myself that havent overclocked much to get the most out of our sytems.


Since I do a massive load of multitasking, I love it, if I only did 1 or 2 things at a time and had an unlimited wallet I would have considered the Intel path, but just for the fact I use more than 2 sata6gbps rated drives, don't want a 300usd raid card, and my existing Sabertooth runs this chip like a champ, I couldn't justify using anything else.

Especially since at 4.6ghz on that voltage ([email protected]) it runs neck and neck with a stock 3770k.


----------



## sunset1

@endevite i have 2 of the haf 22's one modded to put my 240 clc rad on outside top but i have been really close to buying a haf xm i really like the options on that case .. just wishing it was cheaper.
Im always looking for the best horsepower (cpu/gpu) per dollar and not the most expensive or latest and greatest. with some patience, prior knowlege and always learning on OCN i have really been happy with my upgrades. thanks again for the posts.


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> @endevite perfect post. Obviously running at max settings isnt always the fastest. however the faster memory alows for future use and hopefully tighter timings at lower speeds.
> Thats a nice clock on air.. how do you like the performance of the 8350 or have you had enough time to play with it enough? These kind of posts really make it eaier for techs like myself that havent overclocked much to get the most out of our sytems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @tweaky isnt it harder to get 8 gig modules to overclock than 4 gig modules in general? I ask this because I was under the impression that if i had 4 modules in a matched kit im thinking that some may perform better than others and if i want to 2 x 8 gig modules while i have better upgrade options i thought it would be harder to get them to perform as well as the 4 gig modules.
> I value different opinions on this but i realize that not all similar sticks have the same overclocking potiential.


i find that if i oc 4 matched stick and then take 2 sticks out of slots 1 and 3 i can go a little bit high

it seem that the FX cpu will handle higher ram frequencies (+2000mhz) so with newer boards and the FX chips higher ram frequencies is the way to go

if you have ram with higher ram frequencies then you can lower the frequencies and lower the timings

if your deep into overclocking then a set of [email protected] or [email protected] would be best


----------



## sunset1

@tweaky thanks for the post. I read a lot but i tend to put more weight on a few dedictated posters like yourself as well as a few very informed posters with straightforward testing that I can try on my machine. Thanks as always for the post.


----------



## omninmo

Ok folks think i finally made up my mind and am about to pull the tigger on a sabertooth rev1, an 8320 and a kit of8gb crucial ballistix tactical cl8 1600mhz..

Just a couple questions, please help outif you can!

Any known compatibility issuesbetween this board and memory?

Seeing its a rev1 sabertooth, will i need another am3 cpu to flash the newest bios or will it work out ofthe box with the 8320 enough so thati can manually flash the latest official bios with vishera support?

Thanks in advancefor your time!


----------



## sunset1

while the 990fx rev. 1 will work If i was to spend money on one today would definitely get the rev.2 board. I have no issues with my board but now that rev.2 is out i do worry about updated bios support and driver support for the future.
Just a thought.


----------



## Tweeky

i agree with the above post

the tech's at asus will be more eager and better equipped to support the newer board


----------



## omninmo

While i would surely prefer the rev 2, the first one is already above what i wanted to spend (vs UD3, my initial option).. and here the 2nd rev is ~ 35$ more than the rev 1 so definitely out of my league atm..

So any feedback regarding my questions of ram compatibility with the ballistix and ability to boot up with the 8320 with outdated bios so i can flash newest version that officially supports vishera?


----------



## Tweeky

this would be better in my option than an old board

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131851


----------



## EniGma1987

Pretty much any RAM will work on any board. There are very few exceptions to this that I have seen over the years. However, unless it is on the officially supported compatibility list, there is a chance that the RAM will not work at the advertised speeds, timings, and voltage. Sometimes you have to up the voltage a bit to get the rated speeds to work.

Trinity is designed for and works best with Samsung chips, Piledriver is probably the same since they are very similar core designs. No one can know what chips are in those Corsair modules, since Corsair does serious bait and switch with chips all the time. Just cause some review says "X" model is great at clocking, does not mean it will be a couple months down the road.


----------



## sunset1

@omninmo here is a post i think will help you out.
scroll down to post 5
http://www.overclock.net/t/1321022/asus-sabertooth-990fx-new-bios-release-1604-asus-sabertooth-990fx-r2-0-new-bios-release-1006

Im not sure what bios was on the boards he used that booted up the 8300 chips.
As far as memory compatability I always contact the manufacturer and keep the post just in case there are any issues. :>
Its a great board. I have been very happy with mine. Just make sure to get a well regulated power supply. I went way over my budget with a seasonic but there are many good power supplies out there. "my opinion" i do think a few people with random issues that pass memtest may have a power supply that is not well regulated.
And Welcome. please update us on your progress.
Sunset1

@Enigma1987 im curious why you say that trinity is designed ( if i read correctly) for samsung memory. while i do have some samsung memory I bought some 2400 ram specificly for the board.
Please enlighten me .. :>


----------



## jzohng

i have no plans of overclocking and i have no plans of ever switching to 32gigs of ram i just want 16gigs. i just dont want to make the mistake of buying 2 packs of 2x4gig sticks and it not working because for a total of 16gigs i need the 4x4gig pack. both rams i listed are on the qualify list.


----------



## Krusher33

Well if you're not overclocking then go with whatever is cheaper. But if you're overclocking, it's so much easier to do so on just 2 sticks. That's my







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Ah well, I guess I'll try a 60mm fan right above the vrm section first before figuring out which waterblocks might do the trick (already did some research, but found no clear data).
> 
> I have enough room to fit a 60mm fan between my top radiator and the motherboard panel in my FD Arc Midi, and who knows: maybe the small amount of airflow *could* help a bit.
> 
> I've not been watercooling that long, and having the extra temperature sensors the Sabertooth has still takes some getting used to: it just freaky to no longer have either the cpu or the gpu as the part which runs hottest.
> 
> Maybe this was also the case in my M5A99X EVO, but that lacked the sensors to tell me.
> 
> Cheers!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> A month ago there still wasn't one. They only had it for the Intel Sabertooths. You can get universal fits but I became confused to which one to get that I didn't pursue it anymore.
Click to expand...

Yeah that's what I did too. I didn't want to go through the trouble and it's doing fine on my current set up. (actually I'm using 120mm fan)


----------



## jzohng

i have another question. will this fit in my case using my sabertooth 990fx and amd phenom ii 1090t?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065

this is my case. coolermaster storm enforcer

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119240&Tpk=cooler%20master%20storm%20enforcer%20case

also if it does fit will it be in the way of the memory sticks? 4 sticks.

im also looking at these two

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118036

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118019


----------



## EniGma1987

Ya it will fit fine. If it is in the way of your RAM you can slide the fan up a half in so it is out of the way. Vertical clearance will be no problem


----------



## wolvers

Anyone with a Saber clocking a PD and want to share settings?


----------



## utnorris

Check over on the 8350 owner's thread and you may find some posted. If I have time later today I will post mine. Keep in mind it will not guarantee you the same overclock as each chip is different, but it should give you a starting point.


----------



## shampoo911

gents... which LAN/USB3 and x-fi fatality pro drivers should i use for windows 8 x64??? any links??


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> gents... which LAN/USB3 and x-fi fatality pro drivers should i use for windows 8 x64??? any links??


Lan is realtek drivers, usb3.0 is asmedia, no clue on the xi-fi, I use an uncommon sound setup and don't keep up on consumer audio setups.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> Lan is realtek drivers, usb3.0 is asmedia, no clue on the xi-fi, I use an uncommon sound setup and don't keep up on consumer audio setups.


btw... how does the fx-8350 behave with the sabertooth?


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> btw... how does the fx-8350 behave with the sabertooth?


hop over to the 8320/8350 page and read up in there. i am expecting my 8320 on wednesday so i have been trying to read up about them in there. from what i see the sabertooths are one of the best performing in there. getting about 4.8 for the 20's and 5 for the 50's


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> btw... how does the fx-8350 behave with the sabertooth?


Like a dream, I was able to push 4.8ghz on air @ 58/59c on core at max load under 1.4v using med llc and high llc on nb. I do have my settings posted about in the 8350 owners club. I could likely have gone higher But socket temps were at 69 and I don't like overheat warnings caused by that sensor.

Right now I can sit @ 1.356v on max load at 4.5/4.6ghz and still deciding which one I want to sit on since they perform almost the same. 4.6 is only a slight margin better but adds 1.5c to my thermal putting me at 56.


----------



## wolvers

Here's my current settings for the [email protected]

FSB - 249
Multi - 18.5
CPUvcore - 1.500v load, 1.476v idle
CPU LLC - Ultra High
CPU current - 130%
Spread spectrum - off
CPU/NB LLC - Regular
CPU/NB Current - 120%
Power Phase control - Extreme
DRAM current - 120%
DRAM Power Phase control - Optimized
CPU/NB - 1.25v
DRAM - 1.49v
VDD PCIE - 1.1v
VDDR - 1.23v
NB - 1.15v
VDDA - 1.269v
SB - 1.1v
CnQ - on
C6 - on
DRAM freq - 999MHz
DRAM timings - 10-10-10-28


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> Here's my current settings for the [email protected]
> FSB - 249
> Multi - 18.5
> CPUvcore - 1.500v load, 1.476v idle
> CPU LLC - Ultra High
> CPU current - 130%
> Spread spectrum - off
> CPU/NB LLC - Regular
> CPU/NB Current - 120%
> Power Phase control - Extreme
> DRAM current - 120%
> DRAM Power Phase control - Optimized
> CPU/NB - 1.25v
> DRAM - 1.49v
> VDD PCIE - 1.1v
> VDDR - 1.23v
> NB - 1.15v
> VDDA - 1.269v
> SB - 1.1v
> CnQ - on
> C6 - on
> DRAM freq - 999MHz
> DRAM timings - 10-10-10-28


That's water right? The higher you push llc the higher your temps will be, that alone will cause problems and why I like to sit on medium for cpu and high for nb.


----------



## wolvers

It just means that it raises slightly under load, rather than drop. That's better IMO as you only want a higher vcore when it's required. There's one above the one I'm using for the CPU but that spikes too much for me.

Reducing LLC only reduces temps because of the reduced vcore you end up with under load, which is fine unless it reduces stability too.

And yes it is a custom loop, but it's in an HTPC case that sits in an AV rack so it's not as efficient as one with 360 rads etc.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> It just means that it raises slightly under load, rather than drop. That's better IMO as you only want a higher vcore when it's required. There's one above the one I'm using for the CPU but that spikes too much for me.
> Reducing LLC only reduces temps because of the reduced vcore you end up with under load, which is fine unless it reduces stability too.
> And yes it is a custom loop, but it's in an HTPC case that sits in an AV rack so it's not as efficient as one with 360 rads etc.


No no, I've actually tested this on my saber, I went up 5c going from med to high and only gained 0.03v anti droop. It does add a bit of heat.


----------



## wolvers

I'll try it with the same vcore setting then and lower the LLC one notch. I'm always keen to get lower temps!









I'm pretty confident that it'll just become unstable, and I'll need to raise the vcore setting to compensate.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> I'll try it with the same vcore setting then and lower the LLC one notch. I'm always keen to get lower temps!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty confident that it'll just become unstable, and I'll need to raise the vcore setting to compensate.


Comp it with raising the ceiling voltage a little, on load it'l fall back down but its still lower load even with the higher idle v. The goal is to get the max load v to match what stable is, while slowly inching up the manual v setting, so like 1.425, should be 1.404 on idle and 1.356 on load.

I should also note I have both cpu and nb current capacity at 100% not higher, phasecontrols as optimized. ;p

Note: since you're on a 8320 not 8350, may need to have a base voltage of 1.437 or 1.44.


----------



## wolvers

OK thanks, I'll crank those back and see how it goes.









Not convinced by LLC. It still needs to end up the same under load to be stable and IMO it's better that it's lower when idle than the other way around.


----------



## dixson01974

Sorry wrong thread.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> OK thanks, I'll crank those back and see how it goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not convinced by LLC. It still needs to end up the same under load to be stable and IMO it's better that it's lower when idle than the other way around.


Think of it like this, at idle, you are rocking v with low amps, at load, you are rocking v with high amps, at idle it's negligible, but at load is where it is important, where the heat is, and the strain on the vrm, which also kicks out barrels of heat, you want to minimize stress in those areas. So low amps tiny bit higher v with exact v at load with high amps, works out better on the board and the chip.


----------



## wolvers

OK. Well I can't test it now because I just returned it back to it's home in the cinema room and it doesn't display the BIOS properly through the projector.







I'll have to get the monitor from the office and I CBA tonight.







Definitely going to try it out tomorrow evening, Mrs Wolvers is out.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> OK. Well I can't test it now because I just returned it back to it's home in the cinema room and it doesn't display the BIOS properly through the projector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll have to get the monitor from the office and I CBA tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely going to try it out tomorrow evening, Mrs Wolvers is out.


Fun stuff, hopefully you'll be able to get some lower v, what your at right now looks like overkill to get your clock. I mean that in so many ways. ;p


----------



## Solders18

endevite could you shed a little more like on this. i have my 1055 at just over 4 @1.475v with llc set to ultra. are you saying up the voltage a little and lower llc?


----------



## hotrod717

sorry, I'm not endevite, But I'm at 4.016 ghz and 1.3975v . You should not need that amount of juice for 4ghz. No llc by the way.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> sorry, I'm not endevite, But I'm at 4.016 ghz and 1.3975v . You should not need that amount of juice for 4ghz. No llc by the way.


you mind sharing your specs? from the 1055 owners club 1.475 is right in line with what other people are getting.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> endevite could you shed a little more like on this. i have my 1055 at just over 4 @1.475v with llc set to ultra. are you saying up the voltage a little and lower llc?


Yes, not only will it drop heat on the vrm but it should drop heat on proc, most seem to jump strait to the hardest LLC thinking that gives them the best chance at fixed power and a better oc, but what it really is doing is overworking the vrm, kicking up local ambient heat near socket, and possibly over feeding the proc when it isn't needed . At least this is the case with the PD's.

So I would find the minimum v that the proc sits at on stable during burn tests, then try to get the lower llc's to fall to that spot on load. That is while still keeping the max v from getting way to high during idle.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> Yes, not only will it drop heat on the vrm but it should drop heat on proc, most seem to jump strait to the hardest LLC thinking that gives them the best chance at fixed power and a better oc, but what it really is doing is overworking the vrm, kicking up local ambient heat near socket, and possibly over feeding the proc when it isn't needed . At least this is the case with the PD's.
> So I would find the minimum v that the proc sits at on stable during burn tests, then try to get the lower llc's to fall to that spot on load. That is while still keeping the max v from getting way to high during idle.


that sounds about right. i tuned this one to keep about the same voltage with load and idle. i don't get anywhere near thermal wall, my load is 40c. this is the last night i have with this cpu. i have to ship it tomorrow


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> that sounds about right. i tuned this one to keep about the same voltage with load and idle. i don't get anywhere near thermal wall, my load is 40c. this is the last night i have with this cpu. i have to ship it tomorrow


Generally on a med llc you'll end up with a 0.01 to 0.05? v difference from the idle v and the load v, where the idle v is 0.1 or 0.2 higher than the load v's stable mark.

Really not sure how heavy the load draw is on the pII x6's. So it would be something to play with.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> Generally on a med llc you'll end up with a 0.01 to 0.05? v difference from the idle v and the load v, where the idle v is 0.1 or 0.2 higher than the load v's stable mark.
> Really not sure how heavy the load draw is on the pII x6's. So it would be something to play with.


i'll just wait till wednesday when my 8320 gets here!!!


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> i'll just wait till tuesday when my 8320 gets here!!!


You guys and your 8320's. ;p
Main thing I don't like about them is the part where in most cases they tend to need more v than 8350's for same clock to clock matching.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> You guys and your 8320's. ;p
> Main thing I don't like about them is the part where in most cases they tend to need more v than 8350's for same clock to clock matching.


weeeell, i wanted the 50 but no one had them that i could get reasonable shipping or free shipping plus i didn't have the extra clams to get it. so i settled for the 20. it will serve my purpose more then plenty, passmark's numbers show that it starts 2000 points higher than i could get with this one OC'd so i will be happy. hoping to break 10k!


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> weeeell, i wanted the 50 but no one had them that i could get reasonable shipping or free shipping plus i didn't have the extra clams to get it. so i settled for the 20. it will serve my purpose more then plenty, passmark's numbers show that it starts 2000 points higher than i could get with this one OC'd so i will be happy. hoping to break 10k!


Fun stuff, maybe you'll get one of the 8320 cherries that run like an 8350. ;p


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> Fun stuff, maybe you'll get one of the 8320 cherries that run like an 8350. ;p


You mean an 8350 in disguise?







i decided to try your voltage idea... i couldn't resist! its that voice in your head just whispering "Overclock..." over and over!


----------



## Solders18

so i have been playing with the voltages and found that it takes 1.452v to keep this thing ticking. it also saves 4 degrees and about 40 watts. What was i seeing about the VDDA voltage? bumping it up a bit to increase stability


----------



## hellboy99

Another reply from the "tech" guy I've been dealing with from ASUS with regards to WIn 8 support for the R1 board:
Quote:


> Dear Valued Customer,
> 
> Sorry for the trouble.
> 
> Win 8 needs both bios and drive support, the bios is a cap file, not the SABERTOOTH 990FX rom file, so we released the R2.0 to conventer to cap file. As this board is released more early than the win 8.


Am I the only one that thinks this guy I'm dealing with hasn't a clue or just couldn't be bothered


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> Here's my current settings for the [email protected]
> FSB - 249
> Multi - 18.5
> CPUvcore - 1.500v load, 1.476v idle
> CPU LLC - Ultra High
> CPU current - 130%
> Spread spectrum - off
> CPU/NB LLC - Regular
> CPU/NB Current - 120%
> Power Phase control - Extreme
> DRAM current - 120%
> DRAM Power Phase control - Optimized
> CPU/NB - 1.25v
> DRAM - 1.49v
> VDD PCIE - 1.1v
> VDDR - 1.23v
> NB - 1.15v
> VDDA - 1.269v
> SB - 1.1v
> CnQ - on
> C6 - on
> DRAM freq - 999MHz
> DRAM timings - 10-10-10-28


Is your VDDA voltage correct it's normally around 2.4v?
BIOS CPU VDDA
Min 2.2
Max 2.8
Standard 2.5


----------



## wolvers

Of course, you are absolutely correct.









It should be 2.69 I think. I'll double check later and edit.


----------



## pendrago

Hi there









After a long absence at this forum I have come back









First of all, I built my first custom WC rig and I am just very happy about it







I haven't overclocked my FX-6100 yet, because of AS 5 curing time (I will wait and I just gather all the information I need and then I will start playing with this CPU).

So got some question ATM:
1) Which version of BIOS you find the most overclock friendly







Asus has recently released a bunch of new BIOSes and I am still sitting on 1208. Is the latest release better for Zambezi chip?

2) I know that default Voltage for FX-6100 ranges from 0.775V - 1.425V Now I run mine (not overclocked) 3300 MHz with C'n'Q off, and S6 (is it the right name?) off at 1.289 V ... How much lower I could set to stay stable and what is the range of voltage for CPU-NB for this chip ? What level should I stay on?

3) I use 1208 BIOS with modded RAID ROM module (version I mean). I have read that in newer BIOSES there is no need to update RAID ROM anymore. Is that true and will my RAID be safe after I update it to *1604* ?

... it's good to be back here. The only place where I feel like I was at home







and that is a quite positive feeling


----------



## lastguytom

I own a asus (kittyteeth)sabertooth 990fx rev1.0 MB sign me up too. Love this board.....have a 8350 pd just installed......had a 6100 bd in it before.... it does make a difference .... in my Fps for my games

0


----------



## warpuck

Just curious does asus tool control each 8320/50 core like it does with a thuban? or does it do only the modules? I used the tool to test oc for each core one at a time to find the slowest & set my OC for all that way. like this: default, default, default, default, default, OC>>default, default, default, default,OC, default>>>>Note to self; next friday order a 8350 if not available a 8320.

My board is a rev 1 bios 1503


----------



## wolvers

Would one of you guys mind checking in Asus Thermal Radar app and posting what your VCORE-1 temps get to during stress testing?


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> Would one of you guys mind checking in Asus Thermal Radar app and posting what your VCORE-1 temps get to during stress testing?


i don't have a cpu right now but i seem to remember my v-core being about 52-60


----------



## bmgjet

Gaming 50ish, Stability tests 60s.


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> sorry, I'm not endevite, But I'm at 4.016 ghz and 1.3975v . You should not need that amount of juice for 4ghz. No llc by the way.


It all depends on your VID, the batch you get, your cooling, and ambient temps. Saying someone should not need a specific volts simply because you do not is not correct. I know someone with an FX-6300 who can do 4.85GHz with 1.5v stable, I on the other hand have the same processor from only a week or two apart in production and can only get 4.6GHz stable with 1.515v and moderate LLC.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> Just curious does asus tool control each 8320/50 core like it does with a thuban? or does it do only the modules? I used the tool to test oc for each core one at a time to find the slowest & set my OC for all that way. like this: default, default, default, default, default, OC>>default, default, default, default,OC, default>>>>Note to self; next friday order a 8350 if not available a 8320.
> My board is a rev 1 bios 1503


Revision 1, bios 1604 only lets you turn off modules with Piledriver when in the bios. I dont know about any tool to turn things off within Windows.


----------



## azcrazy

Hey u guys know if for 4 stick u have bump up the voltage of NB, like intel boards do?

cause i keep getting a BSOD 0x000A which it says it has to do with ram, and i tested all my sticks and all are fine, anything will help.


----------



## Krusher33

Anyone else having problems with ASUS global site? Trying to get to the Sabertooth v1 page for downloads.

Nevermind, I found a way around it.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Anyone else having problems with ASUS global site? Trying to get to the Sabertooth v1 page for downloads.
> 
> Nevermind, I found a way around it.


how did you work around it? i have found a couple ways but they aren't consistent. why don't they display the R1 in the normal menu?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Anyone else having problems with ASUS global site? Trying to get to the Sabertooth v1 page for downloads.
> 
> Nevermind, I found a way around it.
> 
> 
> 
> how did you work around it? i have found a couple ways but they aren't consistent. why don't they display the R1 in the normal menu?
Click to expand...

Go to global, scroll down and click support. Click download. Type Sabertooth, select the non v2 one.

V1 is not available on the USA site.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Go to global, scroll down and click support. Click download. Type Sabertooth, select the non v2 one.
> 
> V1 is not available on the USA site.


yeah, thats why question, why did they take it off of the usa site?


----------



## wolvers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> i don't have a cpu right now but i seem to remember my v-core being about 52-60


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Gaming 50ish, Stability tests 60s.


Great. Thanks for the replies.


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> yeah, thats why question, why did they take it off of the usa site?


I've just been on the USA site and everything is there for the rev. 1 board.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Go to global, scroll down and click support. Click download. Type Sabertooth, select the non v2 one.
> 
> V1 is not available on the USA site.
> 
> 
> 
> yeah, thats why question, why did they take it off of the usa site?
Click to expand...

Mo' money honey!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> yeah, thats why question, why did they take it off of the usa site?
> 
> 
> 
> I've just been on the USA site and everything is there for the rev. 1 board.
Click to expand...

I don't see it? I can only find it on the global one.


----------



## gatornation240

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azcrazy*
> 
> Hey u guys know if for 4 stick u have bump up the voltage of NB, like intel boards do?
> cause i keep getting a BSOD 0x000A which it says it has to do with ram, and i tested all my sticks and all are fine, anything will help.


set the voltage to the specs of the ram, not AUTO. Like my viper 3 set I had to change it to 1.5000 cause auto was a little above, just an idea.


----------



## endevite

Sabertooth rev2.0 has a 1101 bios now.

Direct link:
http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R2.0/SABERTOOTH-990FX-R20-ASUS-1101.zip

Maybe this will help stabilize some oc's on the newer rev.


----------



## wolvers

woohoo!!

Will I loose all of my settings?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gatornation240*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *azcrazy*
> 
> Hey u guys know if for 4 stick u have bump up the voltage of NB, like intel boards do?
> cause i keep getting a BSOD 0x000A which it says it has to do with ram, and i tested all my sticks and all are fine, anything will help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> set the voltage to the specs of the ram, not AUTO. Like my viper 3 set I had to change it to 1.5000 cause auto was a little above, just an idea.
Click to expand...

Hey cool... I'm using viper 3 as well. Though I'm just sticking with 2 sticks.

My bad, I'm actually using Div 4.


----------



## Raephen

57 C without 60mm fan mounted just above the VRM bit, and with one: 56 so far... not much diff, just takes longer to get there.
(By the way: the 56 C is about 8 C higher than the CPU according to AI Suite II).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> Would one of you guys mind checking in Asus Thermal Radar app and posting what your VCORE-1 temps get to during stress testing?


----------



## wolvers

Having a bit of trouble here with CPU and VCORE-1 temps. I've been tweaking voltages this evening and managed to reduce core temps by 4 or 5 degrees, to mid 50s during stress testing, but I'm still getting CPU temp at 64 (warnings pop up at 65) and VCORE-1 as high as 76 (warnings pop up at 80). VCORE-2 is 59 and USB3.0-1 is 53, so all quite hot in the same area of the board.

I've got a fan pointing straight at the CPU socket as well, as these appear to be motherboard temps, so I'm not sure where to go from here. I was hoping to push more voltages for higher clocks but I can't like this. I've ordered a higher speed fan to see if that helps for stress testing, and maybe I should be considering a spot fan. Any ideas welcome.


----------



## Raephen

Ideas? Yeah, watercooling the vrm nb arear, but I'm loathe to try those universal blocks and a specifick one for the 990FX Saberkitten has yet to be seen... At first glance, the vrm/nb block for the Gigabyte 990FX UD7 seems like it might fit, but on closer inspection of pictures on the web has me worried about the mounting holes...

You could always try remounting the vrm/nb block and replacing the sloppy stock TIM with a better grade one. Be sure to use an non-conductive one (non is far stretch: best to say as less conductive as possible.) MX-4 is up for the job, I think, but very spread sensitive. Noctua's NT-H1 doesn't care much for spread, but I'm not certain of it's conductivity.
If you can find it, Coollink's Chillaramic is a very good one: I used it on after market gpu coolers, but it's hard to get nowadays (EOL, I'd guess).

Good luck!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> Having a bit of trouble here with CPU and VCORE-1 temps. I've been tweaking voltages this evening and managed to reduce core temps by 4 or 5 degrees, to mid 50s during stress testing, but I'm still getting CPU temp at 64 (warnings pop up at 65) and VCORE-1 as high as 76 (warnings pop up at 80). VCORE-2 is 59 and USB3.0-1 is 53, so all quite hot in the same area of the board.
> I've got a fan pointing straight at the CPU socket as well, as these appear to be motherboard temps, so I'm not sure where to go from here. I was hoping to push more voltages for higher clocks but I can't like this. I've ordered a higher speed fan to see if that helps for stress testing, and maybe I should be considering a spot fan. Any ideas welcome.


----------



## wolvers

I did consider a block for it, but that wouldn't help the socket temp I don't think.

Replacing the TIM is worth a shot, I've got some Ceramique that's non-conductive.


----------



## sunset1

btw you can adjust fan profiles in ai suite to favor vrm temps. Id show you how to do it but ai suite updated to verson !! and started giving me errors so i have to remove it.


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> I did consider a block for it, but that wouldn't help the socket temp I don't think.
> Replacing the TIM is worth a shot, I've got some Ceramique that's non-conductive.


some have used 12mm slim fans behind the cpu to keep it cool --- ( its only 12mm thick)

put it between the motherboard tray and the case cover at the cpu opening

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185072&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-NA-_-NA


----------



## Raephen

I see your point in wondering if watercooling the vrm's would have any effect on cooling the socket temp, but I think it might make _some_ difference.

Looking at the thermal radar thingy (nice to look at, but that's about all it's use I can find... though the Sabertooth does not come with FanXpert in it's software bundle, it does work - i installed the version I got with AI Suite II from my M5A99X EVO)..... Anyway, where was I?







Looking at where according the software the sensors are, CPU and V-core 1 are close together, so close I think heat of one area surely influences the other.

Hence, I'd imagine keeping the V-cores cool(er) might shave off a few degrees from the socket temp.

If / when you remove the heatsink and replace the stock TIM, be sure to keep me posted on how easy it went and if you see any improvement...

For all I've tried, I can't seem to get my FX-4170 fully Prime stable (after 1,5 hours or so usually one or two cores throttle down). But the best stress test I've noticed in my case seems fully stable: Skyrim.

Ah well, I can live wth the way it is now








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> I did consider a block for it, but that wouldn't help the socket temp I don't think.
> Replacing the TIM is worth a shot, I've got some Ceramique that's non-conductive.


----------



## wolvers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> some have used 12mm slim fans behind the cpu to keep it cool --- ( its only 12mm thick)
> put it between the motherboard tray and the case cover at the cpu opening
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185072&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-NA-_-NA


Unfortunately that's not an option with my case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> I see your point in wondering if watercooling the vrm's would have any effect on cooling the socket temp, but I think it might make _some_ difference.
> Looking at the thermal radar thingy (nice to look at, but that's about all it's use I can find... though the Sabertooth does not come with FanXpert in it's software bundle, it does work - i installed the version I got with AI Suite II from my M5A99X EVO)..... Anyway, where was I?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at where according the software the sensors are, CPU and V-core 1 are close together, so close I think heat of one area surely influences the other.
> Hence, I'd imagine keeping the V-cores cool(er) might shave off a few degrees from the socket temp.
> If / when you remove the heatsink and replace the stock TIM, be sure to keep me posted on how easy it went and if you see any improvement...
> For all I've tried, I can't seem to get my FX-4170 fully Prime stable (after 1,5 hours or so usually one or two cores throttle down). But the best stress test I've noticed in my case seems fully stable: Skyrim.
> Ah well, I can live wth the way it is now


Some good logic there. It's very probable that the socket temp sensor is seeing heat soaked from the VRMs that are 9c hotter, especially as the cores above are 9c cooler.

I'll be checking that TIM soon and will be sure to post the results.


----------



## MrThatGuy

Just updated to BIOS version 1101 on my R2.0. It deleted my OC profiles, and also tried running my 4 sticks of ram at 1T so I could not post until I removed 2 sticks and set it back to 2T.


----------



## Krusher33

I recently installed my Sabertooth and was excited to see the option of 1T/2T. I did not have that with my M4A785TD.


----------



## Raephen

This got me thinking: does anyone know if AMD has thermal sensor bits in their chips yet?

I know Deneb chips didn't, and seeing the way core temps are now with bulldozer I still think that's not the case: it still looks like a guesstimate to me...
An idle temp lower than room temperature? Not to mention 0 or even sub-zero, at times?! (after just powering on cpu and mobo: 23 C, core temp: 0 C or lower...)

No, I don't trust core temps, unless under load, they might be close then...

But I do think I understand the assumption why the socket might heat up a bit more than the cores themselves, with proper cooling... (cpu -> cpu heatspreader -> good contact with a decent cooler = beter dissipation of heat from core to cooler)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> Some good logic there. It's very probable that the socket temp sensor is seeing heat soaked from the VRMs that are 9c hotter, especially as the cores above are 9c cooler.
> I'll be checking that TIM soon and will be sure to post the results.


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrThatGuy*
> 
> Just updated to BIOS version 1101 on my R2.0. It deleted my OC profiles, and also tried running my 4 sticks of ram at 1T so I could not post until I removed 2 sticks and set it back to 2T.


Going from 1006 to 1101 I had to change my ram timings.
1101 likes them loose or it wont post.

But having them loose didnt make any chance to my benchmarks so iv got my doubts that they were even being set correctly by 1006.


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> 1101 likes them loose or it wont post.
> But having them loose didnt make any chance to my benchmarks so iv got my doubts that they were even being set correctly by 1006.


Or vise versa


----------



## wolvers

Motherboard heat sink was easy to remove. Two screws on top, either end of the VRM heat sink, and two underneath the NB heatsink.





That stuff around the NB chip is like chewing gum! I've replaced that with some Ceramique and the pads on the VRMs with the stuff you get from EK with the GPU blocks.


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*


use some Isopropyl alcohol to wipe off the excess gunk on the top of the NB die too before putting the heatsink back on. The higher the alcohol content the better. If you use something really low like 70%, be sure to wait a few minutes and make sure all the water has evaporated.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> Motherboard heat sink was easy to remove. Two screws on top, either end of the VRM heat sink, and two underneath the NB heatsink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That stuff around the NB chip is like chewing gum! I've replaced that with some Ceramique and the pads on the VRMs with the stuff you get from EK with the GPU blocks.


Oh wow. I don't have Ceramique. Would any TIM be an improvement over this?

I'm wondering if this is why I can't get my chip past 3.8ghz when it did fine over 4ghz on my other board.


----------



## wolvers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> use some Isopropyl alcohol to wipe off the excess gunk on the top of the NB die too before putting the heatsink back on. The higher the alcohol content the better. If you use something really low like 70%, be sure to wait a few minutes and make sure all the water has evaporated.


Yeah, I cleaned it all with some solvent cleaner. I could get the top of the NB really clean but had to leave most of what was around the outside of it becuse it's so sticky. Just like gum. Here it is ready for refitting of the heat sink;


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Oh wow. I don't have Ceramique. Would any TIM be an improvement over this?
> I'm wondering if this is why I can't get my chip past 3.8ghz when it did fine over 4ghz on my other board.


I've no idea if it's any better







, gonna try it tonight.


----------



## Raephen

Good going, man. Seeing those pictures helped me a lot, and alas: I don't think the 990FX UD7 waterblck would fit the Sabertooth. The NB chip is slightly in a different position.









I don't think heat would trully bottleneck: I found the core of my notquite-stable problem, and it wasn't the V-core-1 temp. It looked stable at 1,428 V, and even if I upped the + overvolt, it'd remain at 1,428 so I figured my board thought that was enough.

Which partly is true: this is where Load Line Calibration comes into play.

Medium / high LLC seems to top off at 1,428 V with my Saberikitten, but Ultra high seemed to allow for 1,464, which was just what I needed to get my Saberkitten OCCT stable.

Regards and best of luck with the new tim / heatpads on the heatsink, Wolves! I can't wait tto hear the result.


----------



## wolvers

No joy I'm afraid, well not with the VRM temps anyway. The change of thermal pads hasn't helped there. I think I have a lack of air flow over the heat sink so my next thing to try is a spot fan. I've got a 40mm fan knocking about, anyone got any thoughts on that? I've got a 60mm somewhere, not sure if I've got room for that though.

On the positive side, some AS5 on the CPU has knocked 5c off the core temps. Well, the stuff I used before must of been proper crap I guess.


----------



## Krusher33

I don't know what's going on with yours but mine is 1.488 with high LLC at the moment.


----------



## Mistral

My 8350 arrives tomorrow should be an interesting weekend.


----------



## warpuck

I will correct my question:
Does TurboV EVO let you set each core's multiplier with dozer/piledriver ? I can set each core's multiplier between 4x and 35x with a Thuban. 4x is pretty close to off.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Good going, man. Seeing those pictures helped me a lot, and alas: I don't think the 990FX UD7 waterblck would fit the Sabertooth. The NB chip is slightly in a different position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think heat would trully bottleneck: I found the core of my notquite-stable problem, and it wasn't the V-core-1 temp. It looked stable at 1,428 V, and even if I upped the + overvolt, it'd remain at 1,428 so I figured my board thought that was enough.
> 
> Which partly is true: this is where Load Line Calibration comes into play.
> 
> Medium / high LLC seems to top off at 1,428 V with my Saberikitten, but Ultra high seemed to allow for 1,464, which was just what I needed to get my Saberkitten OCCT stable.
> 
> Regards and best of luck with the new tim / heatpads on the heatsink, Wolves! I can't wait tto hear the result.


Hey guys, cooling the VRMs definitely matters. But you do not need to use a water block. Check this out! I had the sabertooth and a 960T and I was able to drop the VRM and CPU temps quite a bit. I posted the results at overclockers.com same username so you know its me.


----------



## warpuck

It is pretty much pointless pushing this 960t past 3990 on all 4 cores. This good for 24/7. I keep the VR module temps down with a old G-Skill memory cooler (2x60mm fans) bent to fit. I use a 6 pipe, 6mm single ended Scythe silent low profile cpu cooler. I did not get any better results with a corsair A70 I added a sunon (molex powered) 120mm set in updraft or pull, So much for silence. In the push or downdraft it added heat to the VR.
I will try this again when my 8350 gets here. The load was Boinc [email protected] and Mass Effect2 maxed @1920x1080

Open Hardware Monitor Report

Version: 0.5.1.0

Common Language Runtime: 4.0.30319.500
Operating System: Microsoft Windows NT 6.1.7601 Service Pack 1
Process Type: 64-Bit

Sensors

|
+- ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX (/mainboard)
| |
| +- ITE IT8721F (/lpc/it8721f)
| | +- Voltage #1 : 2.808 2.784 2.82 (/lpc/it8721f/voltage/0)
| | +- Voltage #2 : 2.784 2.772 2.784 (/lpc/it8721f/voltage/1)
| | +- Voltage #3 : 1.404 1.392 1.404 (/lpc/it8721f/voltage/2)-- I think this is CPU
| | +- Voltage #4 : 1.668 1.656 1.668 (/lpc/it8721f/voltage/3)
| | +- Voltage #5 : 1.596 2.52 2.532 (/lpc/it8721f/voltage/5)
| | +- Voltage #7 : 2.616 2.616 2.616 (/lpc/it8721f/voltage/6)
| | +- Standby +3.3V : 4.032 4.032 4.032 (/lpc/it8721f/voltage/7)
| | +- VBat : 3.312 3.312 3.312 (/lpc/it8721f/voltage/8)
| | +- Temperature #1 : 37 32 48 (/lpc/it8721f/temperature/0)<--
| | +- Temperature #2 : 31 26 34 (/lpc/it8721f/temperature/1) Motherboard
| | +- Temperature #3 : 30 30 30 (/lpc/it8721f/temperature/2) PCI-e
| | +- Fan #1 : 913.397 873.221 991.19 (/lpc/it8721f/fan/0) Chassis
| | +- Fan #3 : 525.701 450.3 675.676 (/lpc/it8721f/fan/2) Chassis
|
+- AMD Phenom II X4 960T Processor (/amdcpu/0)
| +- Bus Speed : 215.728 215.708 215.747 (/amdcpu/0/clock/0)
| +- CPU Core #1 : 862.911 862.867 3991.33 (/amdcpu/0/clock/1)
| +- CPU Core #2 : 862.911 862.867 3991.33 (/amdcpu/0/clock/2)
| +- CPU Core #3 : 862.911 862.867 3991.33 (/amdcpu/0/clock/3)
| +- CPU Core #4 : 862.911 862.867 3991.33 (/amdcpu/0/clock/4)
| +- Core #1 - #4 : 24 17.875 39.125 (/amdcpu/0/temperature/0)
| +- CPU Total : 11.5385 0.384617 100 (/amdcpu/0/load/0)
| +- CPU Core #1 : 0 0 100 (/amdcpu/0/load/1)
| +- CPU Core #2 : 12.3077 0 100 (/amdcpu/0/load/2)
| +-CPU Core #3 : 9.23077 0 100 (/amdcpu/0/load/3)
| +- CPU Core #4 : 24.6154 0 100 (/amdcpu/0/load/4)
|
+- Manufacturer0 Array1_PartNumber0 (/ram)
| +- Memory : 22.0051 20.3536 40.7705 (/ram/load/0)
| +- Used Memory : 1.7521 1.62061 3.24625 (/ram/data/0)
| +- Available Memory : 6.21016 4.71601 6.34165 (/ram/data/1)
|
+- AMD Radeon HD 7800 Series (/atigpu/0)
| +- GPU Core : 0.9 0.9 1.219 (/atigpu/0/voltage/0)
| +- GPU Core : 300 300 1100 (/atigpu/0/clock/0)
| +- GPU Memory : 1200 1200 1200 (/atigpu/0/clock/1)
| +- GPU Core : 35 29 49 (/atigpu/0/temperature/0)
| +- GPU Core : 0 0 92 (/atigpu/0/load/0)
| +- GPU Fan : 40 40 45 (/atigpu/0/control/0)


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Hey guys, cooling the VRMs definitely matters. But you do not need to use a water block. Check this out! I had the sabertooth and a 960T and I was able to drop the VRM and CPU temps quite a bit. I posted the results at overclockers.com same username so you know its me.


Hmm... I might just try and figure out a way to mount the Noiseblocker BlackSilentFan XR2 (the 60mm fan I got modded/mounted in the roof of my Arc Midi case, sucking air from the VRM block)... As of yet it doesn't make that much of a difference (Vcore-2 is cooler, 1 not so much), but it's surprisingly silent at 1700ish rpm.

I might try some magic with tiewraps first









Thanks for the tip!


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Hey guys, cooling the VRMs definitely matters. But you do not need to use a water block. Check this out! I had the sabertooth and a 960T and I was able to drop the VRM and CPU temps quite a bit. I posted the results at overclockers.com same username so you know its me.
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm... I might just try and figure out a way to mount the Noiseblocker BlackSilentFan XR2 (the 60mm fan I got modded/mounted in the roof of my Arc Midi case, sucking air from the VRM block)... As of yet it doesn't make that much of a difference (Vcore-2 is cooler, 1 not so much), but it's surprisingly silent at 1700ish rpm.
> 
> I might try some magic with tiewraps first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip!
Click to expand...

I would recommend that the fan be pushing air and that you focus the cooling a little towards the top of the largest heat sink. Also cooling the back of the board with something like an 80mm helps because the heat sink bracket is back there as well as other things.

Good luck

OH not sure if this helps. But microcenter sell these fan brackets with magnets at the end. They are supposed to let you mount something like a 80-140mm fan anywhere in your case. It's a total rip off because the magnets don't work but I removed the magnets and then screwed the brackets into place through some of the rear exhaust fan mesh and then re-installed the exhaust fan.

Here is a picture



Oh just an FYI even at 1.4v the Intel VRMs and the Intel CPU did not get hot enough for these fans to matter so I removed them, but on the sabertooth it was like night and day when you had a fan cooling the VRM!


----------



## sunset1

dumb question is your side pannel or insides aluminum or steel. ? :>
or are the magnets just that weak? My fans im thinking woudl be too strong for those either way.


----------



## wolvers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Hey guys, cooling the VRMs definitely matters. But you do not need to use a water block. Check this out! I had the sabertooth and a 960T and I was able to drop the VRM and CPU temps quite a bit. I posted the results at overclockers.com same username so you know its me.


Can you please post a picture of how you mounted the fan on the sabertooth? The one in the thread you linked to is not there. Thanks.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> I would recommend that the fan be pushing air and that you focus the cooling a little towards the top of the largest heat sink. Also cooling the back of the board with something like an 80mm helps because the heat sink bracket is back there as well as other things.
> Good luck
> OH not sure if this helps. But microcenter sell these fan brackets with magnets at the end. They are supposed to let you mount something like a 80-140mm fan anywhere in your case. It's a total rip off because the magnets don't work but I removed the magnets and then screwed the brackets into place through some of the rear exhaust fan mesh and then re-installed the exhaust fan.
> Here is a picture
> 
> Oh just an FYI even at 1.4v the Intel VRMs and the Intel CPU did not get hot enough for these fans to matter so I removed them, but on the sabertooth it was like night and day when you had a fan cooling the VRM!


Hmm... Good tips. I'll be on the look out for the Dutch equivalent of Microcenter: those brackets look like they'd do the trick nicely.

But I think I'll try my hand at MacGuivering something with tiewraps first, and using the cpu waterblock and the rear fan as anchoring points would place the fan over the sweet spot.

Ok... I'll be off to get some more tiewraps later today. I'll keep ya'll posted!

(PS - It'd be a tight fit, but how about a 120mm pwn-fan? hmm... lol! It'd be the only pwm fan in my case! Seven casefans, all 3-pin vr fans - 3 on a fan controller, and the other 4 on the Sabertooth 4-pin casefan connectors. I don't know if the 4-pin headers are some form of hybrid or just old-style 3-pin vr headers with the extra pin just for looks. It does seem to do the job of controlling my 3-pin radiator fans, so I don't really care







)


----------



## dimwit13

heres my setup to cool the vrms and memory.




i never got a chance to check the temps without the fans, they were installed on the original build.
i guess i can turn them off ( they are hooked up to the fan controller) and see what stock temps are-DOH!!!

i havent had much time to see what a good stable OC with my 8350.
i have it running cool and stable at 4.8, but i now i can get it higher, with a little time and some fine tuning.

-dimwit-


----------



## wolvers

Thanks dimwit. Are those 60mm fans? They look like they may be 80mm. Also, what kind of speed are they running at?

I'd be very interested to hear what your 'VCORE-1' and 'CPU' temps are in the Thermal Radar app, with and without the fans running.


----------



## shampoo911

i would like to know something... in HWMONITOR, in the TEMP section... there is something that reads "Motherboard"... where is this sensor located? and what does it measure??

if it measures the northbridge.. then im cool as hell.. tops ~36°C

i've never used thermal radar or stuff... im using windows 8 right now... will it work?


----------



## Krusher33

I need to get y'all a picture of my set up. But then again it's an open case bench build so it probably don't help much.

Anyhow, I couldn't get ai suite or any of the individual programs installed. I'm mostly interested in the thermal radar portion. Is there a trick? Double click the set up file and it just doesn't run.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I need to get y'all a picture of my set up. But then again it's an open case bench build so it probably don't help much.
> Anyhow, I couldn't get ai suite or any of the individual programs installed. I'm mostly interested in the thermal radar portion. Is there a trick? Double click the set up file and it just doesn't run.


for me, the ai suite installation is a gamble... works 3 times, does not work 2.. and so on..

btw, is a raid 0 of 2 corsair force gt worth the shot? im an average gamer and pc user...


----------



## wolvers

'Motherboard' in HWMONITOR matches the 'MB' temp in thermal radar, which is in the bottom RH corner of the board next to the front panel connector. I can double check that later along with some of the other readings in HWMONITOR.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> 'Motherboard' in HWMONITOR matches the 'MB' temp in thermal radar, which is in the bottom RH corner of the board next to the front panel connector. I can double check that later along with some of the other readings in HWMONITOR.


many thanks... because i want to check the nb temps... and im not sure which one is in HWMONITOR


----------



## capitaltpt

Anybody know where I can find a windows 8 jmicron driver for Rev 1.0 of this board? It seems my eSATA external drive is causing a crash every time I come out of sleep.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt*
> 
> Anybody know where I can find a windows 8 jmicron driver for Rev 1.0 of this board? It seems my eSATA external drive is causing a crash every time I come out of sleep.


hey... this are the ones that im using.. try them... seems to work fine for me...

J-Micron.zip 86k .zip file


----------



## mrgerbik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt*
> 
> Anybody know where I can find a windows 8 jmicron driver for Rev 1.0 of this board? It seems my eSATA external drive is causing a crash every time I come out of sleep.


I'm having the same crash after waking from sleep issue - except I dont have the JMicron controller enabled --- on rev1.0 using a 8320FX -- anyone else out there with this issue?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I need to get y'all a picture of my set up. But then again it's an open case bench build so it probably don't help much.
> Anyhow, I couldn't get ai suite or any of the individual programs installed. I'm mostly interested in the thermal radar portion. Is there a trick? Double click the set up file and it just doesn't run.
> 
> 
> 
> for me, the ai suite installation is a gamble... works 3 times, does not work 2.. and so on..
> 
> btw, is a raid 0 of 2 corsair force gt worth the shot? im an average gamer and pc user...
Click to expand...

I finally got mine to work. I was procrastinating on re-activating windows. Finally did it, tried again, and it installed.


----------



## capitaltpt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> hey... this are the ones that im using.. try them... seems to work fine for me...
> 
> J-Micron.zip 86k .zip file


Thanks. I have a dumb question though. Where did you install them? Device Manager only lists "Microsoft Storage Spaces Controller" under Storage Controllers.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgerbik*
> 
> I'm having the same crash after waking from sleep issue - except I dont have the JMicron controller enabled --- on rev1.0 using a 8320FX -- anyone else out there with this issue?


Download a program called WhoCrashed. http://www.resplendence.com/whocrashed It reads your minidump file and lets you know what caused the crash.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitaltpt*
> 
> Thanks. I have a dumb question though. Where did you install them? Device Manager only lists "Microsoft Storage Spaces Controller" under Storage Controllers.


well... honestly i dont remember... but try refreshing the list and if a new hardware appears, just lead it to the drivers' location...


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> 'Motherboard' in HWMONITOR matches the 'MB' temp in thermal radar, which is in the bottom RH corner of the board next to the front panel connector. I can double check that later along with some of the other readings in HWMONITOR.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> 'Motherboard' in HWMONITOR matches the 'MB' temp in thermal radar, which is in the bottom RH corner of the board next to the front panel connector. I can double check that later along with some of the other readings in HWMONITOR.
> 
> 
> 
> many thanks... because i want to check the nb temps... and im not sure which one is in HWMONITOR
Click to expand...

On mine the CPU temp = cpu temp and mb temp = mb temp between HWMonitor and thermal radar. My NB temp is 5c more than the motherboard one.


----------



## shampoo911

am i doing this right??? are my temps good? considering cpu @4.7ghz 1.381v and cpu/nb @2660mhz


----------



## Krusher33

Run a stress test or something to find out.


----------



## shampoo911

will aida64 stress test be enough? im not fond of prime95


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah that's fine. Just something that will put in a 100% usage on the CPU and memory usage.


----------



## virtualelvis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> for me, the ai suite installation is a gamble... works 3 times, does not work 2.. and so on..
> btw, is a raid 0 of 2 corsair force gt worth the shot? im an average gamer and pc user...


I have the same issue.. this third time that I tried installing it.. it actually works.. it crashed
the other two times..


----------



## wolvers

Here's a screenshot of HWMONITOR and Thermal Radar to compare. This is after about 25 minutes of Prime and watching SkyGo (pleased I can do both at the same time!)



I've strapped a 60mm fan to the VRM heatsink and it's taken just over 10C off the VCORE-1 temps and a few off of the CPU temp. Not as much as I'd hoped but a good start. I'm going to get an 80mm fan try out.


----------



## Krusher33

Does speedfan show vrm temps I wonder?


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> heres my setup to cool the vrms and memory.
> 
> 
> i never got a chance to check the temps without the fans, they were installed on the original build.
> i guess i can turn them off ( they are hooked up to the fan controller) and see what stock temps are-DOH!!!
> i havent had much time to see what a good stable OC with my 8350.
> i have it running cool and stable at 4.8, but i now i can get it higher, with a little time and some fine tuning.
> -dimwit-


Wow, that's a mighty fine setup!

I did my magic with some tiewraps and the noiseblocker 60mm fan today. I was in a bit of a rush, s I just did a sloppy quick fix, but even now, with the small fan revving at sub 1500 rpm (it's max is 2200), Vcore-1 hasn't been hotter than 51 C after more than an hour of P95 large in place ftt torture.

I'm impressed: a sloppy fix, not quite hitting the sweet spot, still delivering a 7 degrees drop in Vcore-1 (and 1 or 2 in socket temp.) ... Not bad at all, I'd think


----------



## sunset1

@krusher33 there is a trick .. im trying to remember it but i know it was posted again a week or two ago. i accidently upgraded to aisuite II and hav ing major issues. are you running version 1 motherboard? i think it had to do with installing the usb3 charge stuff then installing.. or something like that. Ill read the prior messages later and get back to you .. or vice versa... :> If i remember correctly the origonal cd had issues. but now i cant find the ai suite version 1 on the web site. I thought i had everything backed up but my first drive crapped out on me and i bet it was on there. Ill watch posts and if i dont see an answer ill read back a bit.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> @krusher33 there is a trick .. im trying to remember it but i know it was posted again a week or two ago. i accidently upgraded to aisuite II and hav ing major issues. are you running version 1 motherboard? i think it had to do with installing the usb3 charge stuff then installing.. or something like that. Ill read the prior messages later and get back to you .. or vice versa... :> If i remember correctly the origonal cd had issues. but now i cant find the ai suite version 1 on the web site. I thought i had everything backed up but my first drive crapped out on me and i bet it was on there. Ill watch posts and if i dont see an answer ill read back a bit.


when i want to update bios, i do it through ai suite.. i can manage to install the suite.... but i do not install anything.... just the ASUS Update... then i install everything using the cd.... try it like that


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> @krusher33 there is a trick .. im trying to remember it but i know it was posted again a week or two ago. i accidently upgraded to aisuite II and hav ing major issues. are you running version 1 motherboard? i think it had to do with installing the usb3 charge stuff then installing.. or something like that. Ill read the prior messages later and get back to you .. or vice versa... :> If i remember correctly the origonal cd had issues. but now i cant find the ai suite version 1 on the web site. I thought i had everything backed up but my first drive crapped out on me and i bet it was on there. Ill watch posts and if i dont see an answer ill read back a bit.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> @krusher33 there is a trick .. im trying to remember it but i know it was posted again a week or two ago. i accidently upgraded to aisuite II and hav ing major issues. are you running version 1 motherboard? i think it had to do with installing the usb3 charge stuff then installing.. or something like that. Ill read the prior messages later and get back to you .. or vice versa... :> If i remember correctly the origonal cd had issues. but now i cant find the ai suite version 1 on the web site. I thought i had everything backed up but my first drive crapped out on me and i bet it was on there. Ill watch posts and if i dont see an answer ill read back a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> when i want to update bios, i do it through ai suite.. i can manage to install the suite.... but i do not install anything.... just the ASUS Update... then i install everything using the cd.... try it like that
Click to expand...

Thanks but I did get it working. See my post:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I need to get y'all a picture of my set up. But then again it's an open case bench build so it probably don't help much.
> Anyhow, I couldn't get ai suite or any of the individual programs installed. I'm mostly interested in the thermal radar portion. Is there a trick? Double click the set up file and it just doesn't run.
> 
> 
> 
> for me, the ai suite installation is a gamble... works 3 times, does not work 2.. and so on..
> 
> btw, is a raid 0 of 2 corsair force gt worth the shot? im an average gamer and pc user...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I finally got mine to work. I was procrastinating on re-activating windows. Finally did it, tried again, and it installed.
Click to expand...


----------



## sunset1

hahaah.. i just found the old post.. arg... took me most of the night but i think you are correct. I also registered windows around that time. anyway here is the old post..
it was installing fast usb and then it installed.
post 3265 page 327
thats ok i found some things i had forgotten.. some good some bad. :>
sunset1


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah someone suggested that last night and it didn't work for that either. None of the individual ones would install. While I was at work I got to thinking why none of it would install. I had one of those "what if..." moment followed by







.


----------



## sunset1

i need that icon. :> hahah. ah im in a good mood. got my 2nd thermaltake water 2.0 extreme today for the new case. 79.99 after rebate ordered a day or two ago.That with my new haf 932 advanced blue edition and a new seasonic 750x gold for 99.99 i ordred yesterday I think ill just back up some data from my ssd and reformat if i cant get my registry errors fixed.. i got a little wild the other day without backing up my reg. (headsmack)


----------



## dimwit13

is anyone running AI Suite with windows 8?
if so, where did you get it?
I have the R1.0 saber.

-dimwit-


----------



## sunset1

@ dimwit
funny i found this link i emailed myself a few weeks ago last night.. ;>
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#download

there is a windwos 8 64 bit section.

btw the ai suite original version i think is there also.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> is anyone running AI Suite with windows 8?
> if so, where did you get it?
> I have the R1.0 saber.
> -dimwit-


Most of the windows 8 stuff from the rev2 page works on the rev1. Including the ai suite.


----------



## wolvers

I'm using the AI suite on Win8 64bit. Got it from the Asus site. It's the one for the R2 board V20001.


----------



## pennhaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> I'm using the AI suite on Win8 64bit. Got it from the Asus site. It's the one for the R2 board V20001.


Hi. First post for me. I hope to get around to officially joining the club when I have more time. Right now I am running on Win 7 x64, but have Win 8 ready to install at some point. I stopped running AI Suite altogether, due the extreme lag getting a WAN connection after booting. Had to uninstall AI Suite and disable all the Asus services to eliminate this problem. There is a discussion thread on it at the official Asus 990FX R2.0 forum. (Though the server seems to be down at the moment.) I don't see anyone here mentioning this issue. Anyone actually have an R2.0 running AI Suite without this problem, with either Win 7 or Win 8?


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> @ dimwit
> funny i found this link i emailed myself a few weeks ago last night.. ;>
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#download
> there is a windwos 8 64 bit section.
> btw the ai suite original version i think is there also.


nope, there isn't one for the R1.0 board.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> Most of the windows 8 stuff from the rev2 page works on the rev1. Including the ai suite.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> I'm using the AI suite on Win8 64bit. Got it from the Asus site. It's the one for the R2 board V20001.


thanks guys.
the R1.0 download page for win8 is kinda scarce, while the one for R2.0 is loaded, I was curious if some of the downloads would work.

-dimwit-


----------



## robbo2

I just picked this board up (R2.0) and I must say I am very disappointed with the way it clocks PSC. The CHIV I had before would run my tridents at 1950 8-9-8-24 with my 1090T no problem. This board will do nothing but BSOD if I try to push the ram that far









Tried the latest bios and it's still hopeless. I have to settle for 1560 and see if I can really screw the timings down.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robbo2*
> 
> I just picked this board up (R2.0) and I must say I am very disappointed with the way it clocks PSC. The CHIV I had before would run my tridents at 1950 8-9-8-24 with my 1090T no problem. This board will do nothing but BSOD if I try to push the ram that far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the latest bios and it's still hopeless. I have to settle for 1560 and see if I can really screw the timings down.


May be an inffy board then, my rev1 will do [email protected] and [email protected] on an 8350 just peachy. That's with ripjaws x, not the better trident stuff. Then again the PD's IMC isn't the same as the pII's, a bit more touchy.


----------



## robbo2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> May be an inffy board then, my rev1 will do [email protected] and [email protected] on an 8350 just peachy. That's with ripjaws x, not the better trident stuff. Then again the PD's IMC isn't the same as the pII's, a bit more touchy.


It's running 1560 @ 6-8-6-20 1T now with my 1090T, but with the CHIV it ran 1950 8-9-8-22 1T stable. This board won't even boot. Wondering if there's a trick to it.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robbo2*
> 
> It's running 1560 @ 6-8-6-20 1T now with my 1090T, but with the CHIV it ran 1950 8-9-8-22 1T stable. This board won't even boot. Wondering if there's a trick to it.


Could be a difference of voltages on the saber vs chiv, the saber may start with lower base values and they may need a bump up.


----------



## sunset1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robbo2*
> 
> I just picked this board up (R2.0) and I must say I am very disappointed with the way it clocks PSC. The CHIV I had before would run my tridents at 1950 8-9-8-24 with my 1090T no problem. This board will do nothing but BSOD if I try to push the ram that far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the latest bios and it's still hopeless. I have to settle for 1560 and see if I can really screw the timings down.


ok you are very disapointed in the way it clocks PSC. This abbriviation stands for ?
I know a chiv is a motherboard .. which one?
Tridents..? is this a brand of memory?
bcod.. blue screen of death... what error specifically?
I doubt that in this stage of the game i would assume its the board.
However these boards are known for stability wtih great overclocks but not the fastest.
revision i bios defaulted to ecc memory.
did you run memtest?
as you know the memory controller is on the chip not the motherboard.
how hot are the vrms?what are your temps?
what voltage is the memory rated for ? what voltage are you running?
the guys/gals on there are pretty good and can get you dialed in
what power supply are you using?
sorry i have to call it a night.. not feeling well.. Ill catch back up when i can.
sunset1


----------



## robbo2

PSC is powerchips and what is in the ram. CHIV is Crosshair IV, the 890FX ROG board. Yes, G.Skill Tridents rated for 2000 9-9-9-24 1.6v. I know the ram is fine so no need to memtest. I have tried the latest bios with no luck.

I have tried raising the CPU/NB, but that was no good. I tried other things such as the Current capability and Voltage Frequency, but it just wasn't happening. I'm not mad about it, I can only assume the board doesn't play well with PSC and Thuban. I tried my ripjaws and that was even worse lol.

Been running prime95 for about an hour now at 4ghz 1.4v NB @ 3050 and ram at 1560 6-7-6-20 so it's not that bad.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robbo2*
> 
> PSC is powerchips and what is in the ram. CHIV is Crosshair IV, the 890FX ROG board. Yes, G.Skill Tridents rated for 2000 9-9-9-24 1.6v. I know the ram is fine so no need to memtest. I have tried the latest bios with no luck.
> I have tried raising the CPU/NB, but that was no good. I tried other things such as the Current capability and Voltage Frequency, but it just wasn't happening. I'm not mad about it, I can only assume the board doesn't play well with PSC and Thuban. I tried my ripjaws and that was even worse lol.
> Been running prime95 for about an hour now at 4ghz 1.4v NB @ 3050 and ram at 1560 6-7-6-20 so it's not that bad.


Are you only tweaking the base timings or the whole slew of other timings in the dram timing control? (I had to tweak the other settings too on saber, not just the first 4 and last one.) It is possible things like refresh time and rtw wtr and all that fun stuff defaults at different values between the two boards.

Also the drive strengths may be different and need adjustment. I changed mine in that regard as well.


----------



## robbo2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> Are you only tweaking the base timings or the whole slew of other timings in the dram timing control? (I had to tweak the other settings too on saber, not just the first 4 and last one.) It is possible things like refresh time and rtw wtr and all that fun stuff defaults at different values between the two boards.
> Also the drive strengths may be different and need adjustment. I changed mine in that regard as well.


Good point! I never even looked at the subtimings or the drive strengths. Will look into that once I'm done installing ubuntu. Thanks.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robbo2*
> 
> Good point! I never even looked at the subtimings or the drive strengths. Will look into that once I'm done installing ubuntu. Thanks.


No problem, also, different "base" memory profiles between manual timing or DOCP, both change those timings depending on the base memory clock selection (every time you change the memory clock base it changes all timing data and memory voltage), something to keep in mind.

Hope the info helps and it works out for ya. ;p


----------



## sunset1

thanks for the update :> yes sometimes backing off the power phases helps stableize things. This board has its own list of unwritten rules but there are awesome people to help in the process..
good luck.
sunset1


----------



## jktmas

sorry to say that i like the looks of my sabertooth z77 better


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> sorry to say that i like the looks of my sabertooth z77 better


Okay? Relevance to amd 990fx sabertooth board land is? Seems a little on the trolling side. : /


----------



## jktmas

relevance is sabertooth, sorry you see me as trollin


----------



## Warmonger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> Okay? Relevance to amd 990fx sabertooth board land is? Seems a little on the trolling side. : /


I think he is merely stating he thinks the Z77 make looks better. Which I can't see how when its covered with thermal armor, hiding all the shiny little trinkets on the board. It probably looks better assembled in a case, resulting in a lot cleaner (less going on) build. Tho alone I don't find the board all that appealing.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warmonger*
> 
> I think he is merely stating he thinks the Z77 make looks better. Which I can't see how when its covered with thermal armor, hiding all the shiny little trinkets on the board. It probably looks better assembled in a case, resulting in a lot cleaner (less going on) build. Tho alone I don't find the board all that appealing.


This is still the owners club for not that board, I think gigabyte boards are far better looking than either? (don't like them but black and blue look nice.) It isn't relevant to the sabertooth 990fx owners club. So just having a single post saying you think an intel board looks better is kinda trolling.


----------



## wolvers

Has anyone found an AMD AHCI driver that works with Win8?

Edit; found this

http://support.amd.com/us/gpudownload/windows/Pages/raid_windows.aspx


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warmonger*
> 
> I think he is merely stating he thinks the Z77 make looks better. Which I can't see how when its covered with thermal armor, hiding all the shiny little trinkets on the board. It probably looks better assembled in a case, resulting in a lot cleaner (less going on) build. Tho alone I don't find the board all that appealing.


i will agree that out of a case, thermal armor dosnt look all that great but in a case it makes it look 10x cleaner because it gose with just about every color scheme. as for the gigabite boards looking better, not if you have a red color scheme


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> i will agree that out of a case, thermal armor dosnt look all that great but in a case it makes it look 10x cleaner because it gose with just about every color scheme. as for the gigabite boards looking better, not if you have a red color scheme


Can you two go to the saber z77 owners thread to talk about how much better you think the z77 looks than our 990fx.

Come on now, this is now just talking about how you like how your Intel board looks in a thread about an AMD board..... boasting about it over here isn't going to make you any friends and it isn't something supportive of this thread.

As for the red scheme, CHV-F's look better and don't heat trap. This is absolutely thread derailing.


----------



## sweffymo

I've heard reports that the thermal armor actually makes the board run hotter anyway...


----------



## sunset1

well he did say sorry. :> i think the visuals of both boards are different and come to grow on you.
Now i just looking at my board the visuals scream quality. ">
I made a few posts yesterday and if i offended anyone I sincerly apologize.. I got really really ill and wasnt myself.. next time ill lay down the keyboard.. :>
have a great weekend everyone.


----------



## sunset1

@sweffymo... well you heard wrong. Sorry. at least in the fx boards... but again we are talking about the amd side here. :>


----------



## bmgjet

Boards have a look?
Would of never knowen with all the fans/wires/radiators blocking mine lol.


----------



## lastguytom

what dopes 1t/2t do in the bios?? on the sabertooth


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastguytom*
> 
> what dopes 1t/2t do in the bios?? on the sabertooth


1T means it takes 1 clock cycle, vs. 2T where it takes 2 clock cycles.

Command Rate: Also called CPC (Command Per Clock). The amount of time in cycles when the chip select is executed and the commands can be issued. The lower (1T) performs faster, but 2T is used to maintain system stability in most cases.

In short, in can increase memory performance at the cost of stability as it is pushing things every 1 cycle instead of 2.

Edit: note, not all ram can do low timings AND 1t AND high speed, usually you go with speed+ok timings and might get away with 1t, or you may go low speed but aggressive timings with 1t for the overall most bandwidth and latency reduction you can manage. eg. [email protected] will beat the snot out of [email protected] performance wise on the 83xx's IMC.


----------



## Warmonger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> 1T means it takes 1 clock cycle, vs. 2T where it takes 2 clock cycles.
> Command Rate: Also called CPC (Command Per Clock). The amount of time in cycles when the chip select is executed and the commands can be issued. The lower (1T) performs faster, but 2T is used to maintain system stability in most cases.
> In short, in can increase memory performance at the cost of stability as it is pushing things every 1 cycle instead of 2.
> Edit: note, not all ram can do low timings AND 1t AND high speed, usually you go with speed+ok timings and might get away with 1t, or you may go low speed but aggressive timings with 1t for the overall most bandwidth and latency reduction you can manage. eg. [email protected] will beat the snot out of [email protected] performance wise on the 83xx's IMC.


I have mine set at 1600 @ 8-8-8-20-1T on 1.3v with Samsung's Green 30NM DDR3. I think its really a sweet spot for this brand of memory, because anything lower takes tons of volts.


----------



## sunset1

@warmonger and @endivite its amazing how much faster response is with lower settings and tighter timings. Great discussion.
Warmonger with that samsung memory ( I have some still in the pkg i got a while back on sale )
did you add heat spreaders or cool the memory in any way to get to that point?

I have a tendency to get faster memory for future capablility but underclock them and from the looks of things i have a way to go.









I have a tendency to not overlcok as much as i could thinkng i will be more stable. But truthfully i think i leave a lot on the table and once i feel comfortable with a mild overclock ill start diving into this area more throughly.
Thanks again for the posts everyone.
sunset1


----------



## Warmonger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> @warmonger and @endivite its amazing how much faster response is with lower settings and tighter timings. Great discussion.
> Warmonger with that samsung memory ( I have some still in the pkg i got a while back on sale )
> did you add heat spreaders or cool the memory in any way to get to that point?
> I have a tendency to get faster memory for future capablility but underclock them and from the looks of things i have a way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a tendency to not overlcok as much as i could thinkng i will be more stable. But truthfully i think i leave a lot on the table and once i feel comfortable with a mild overclock ill start diving into this area more throughly.
> Thanks again for the posts everyone.
> sunset1


No heat spreaders, they are barely warm to the touch. They are suppose to run 11-11-11-28 @ 1.35v but for me 8-8-8-20 was achieved at 1.30v. No clue why Samsung set high timings on them by default, clearly they can do *way better at even less volts*. You need to push above 1.60v to get them below 7-7-7-X @ 1600 MHz tho, which isn't worth it in my opinion. 8-8-8-20 @ 1600 MHz @ 1.30v is the sweet spot for the 4GB kit. I rather them run nice and cool at low volts, saving me money and extending the life span (even tho pushing 1.65v through them they will still last 2+ years). These sticks aren't famous for low timings, their famous for how well they overclock while maintaining low timings. I have seen people pushing 2133 MHz @ 9-9-9-24 @ 1.50v with these. Which blows even some of the best, high cost memory out of the water. At 1.50v they still run warm, not even worth the extra $15 to put heat spreaders on them (from what I see no one with these sticks use heat spreaders). Especially with the sticks being low profile like they are, they keep their distance from any bulky heatsink you might have that throws heat. I'm sure your familiar with how low profile they are, I can tell you tho once installed into the motherboard. They don't stick up any higher then the white tabs at either end of the dimm slot, its almost like they are not even there. They probably can do your normal 1600MHz DDR3 timings of 9-9-9-24 @ 1.20v, I just never bothered with underclocking them. My only question is, why are they still sitting in the package?


----------



## sunset1

:> good point. I have to take meds from a old injury and some are too strong to work on computer with. So when im down i keep track of the sales and get hardware slowly to do a buiild..
The reason i asked is that these have small chips on them and like you said a short pcb.
I havent even seen heat spreaders for them. I was shocked when i read the specs like 1.2 or 1.25 volts. I got into modding the clc coolers and went on a tangent for a while. Now im back looking at the hardwae deals i have putting machines together to upgrade family boxes.


----------



## Warmonger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> :> good point. I have to take meds from a old injury and some are too strong to work on computer with. So when im down i keep track of the sales and get hardware slowly to do a buiild..
> The reason i asked is that these have small chips on them and like you said a short pcb.
> I havent even seen heat spreaders for them. I was shocked when i read the specs like 1.2 or 1.25 volts. I got into modding the clc coolers and went on a tangent for a while. Now im back looking at the hardwae deals i have putting machines together to upgrade family boxes.


Yea these 30NM chips are really tiny, the PCB like said is no taller then the dimm slot itself. Attaching normal size heat spreaders to them is possible, but is kinda weird having full height spreaders on such a short PCB. The only downside to these sticks if you can only buy them in 4GB and 8GB packs. The power consumption of the current manufacturing process doesn't allow for any bigger, since you would exceed 1.35v running enough of these chips to make a 8GB stick. Tho Samsung is working on its 20NM manufacturing process, that I believe are suppose to come in 4GB (2x2), 8GB (2x4), and 16GB (2x8) packages. They are also suppose to run at the rated 1.35v of the current 30NM, but consume 3.2W for a single 4GB stick compared to the 4.0W for a 30NM 2GB stick. They also are suppose to come in only 1600 MHz speeds, which isn't a problem since current 30NM sticks will do 2133 MHz overclocked. I imagine the 20NM sticks will do that just as easy if not easier.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warmonger*
> 
> Yea these 30NM chips are really tiny, the PCB like said is no taller then the dimm slot itself. Attaching normal size heat spreaders to them is possible, but is kinda weird having full height spreaders on such a short PCB. The only downside to these sticks if you can only buy them in 4GB and 8GB packs. The power consumption of the current manufacturing process doesn't allow for any bigger, since you would exceed 1.35v running enough of these chips to make a 8GB stick. Tho Samsung is working on its 20NM manufacturing process, that I believe are suppose to come in 4GB (2x2), 8GB (2x4), and 16GB (2x8) packages. They are also suppose to run at the rated 1.35v of the current 30NM, but consume 3.2W for a single 4GB stick compared to the 4.0W for a 30NM 2GB stick. They also are suppose to come in only 1600 MHz speeds, which isn't a problem since current 30NM sticks will do 2133 MHz overclocked. I imagine the 20NM sticks will do that just as easy if not easier.


From what I understand they are already and have been in production and should be on the market by end of year.

Here is a link showing they will indeed be doing 8gb sticks in unbuffered/unbuffered ECC as well as up 32gb registered sticks for server platforms.
http://www.samsung.com/global/business/semiconductor/file/media/Green_DRAM-0.pdf


----------



## Solders18

Does anyone else have a really annoying lag upon windows load? Where it shows the desktop but you can't open anything for a good 30-45 seconds then it will load gadgets and programs. I seem to recall someone mentioning it being Asus suite(wouldn't surprise me), its REALLY annoying


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> Does anyone else have a really annoying lag upon windows load? Where it shows the desktop but you can't open anything for a good 30-45 seconds then it will load gadgets and programs. I seem to recall someone mentioning it being Asus suite(wouldn't surprise me), its REALLY annoying


Asus suite does cause a delay, but if you really want to kill all that boot lag, put your os on an ssd.

Note: if you even rock a modern antivirus and have a fully updated win7 or so, mechanicals just can't really keep up with all the file calls at boot anymore, not even the best access level defragged mechanicals can manage decent boot times anymore.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> Does anyone else have a really annoying lag upon windows load? Where it shows the desktop but you can't open anything for a good 30-45 seconds then it will load gadgets and programs. I seem to recall someone mentioning it being Asus suite(wouldn't surprise me), its REALLY annoying
> 
> 
> 
> Asus suite does cause a delay, but if you really want to kill all that boot lag, put your os on an ssd.
Click to expand...

Have it on a vertex 4 already. Its a recent lag


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> Have it on a vertex 4 already. Its a recent lag


Shouldn't be that bad, I am booting on an 830 256gb, boot time is about 10seconds at most, that's with av+ai suite+a whoole lotta other apps I need to use at startup.


----------



## wolvers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warmonger*
> 
> I have seen people pushing 2133 MHz @ 9-9-9-24 @ 1.50v with these. Which blows even some of the best, high cost memory out of the water.


Runing mine at 2142MHz @ 10-10-10-28 1.5v. Pretty pleased with that, it's really time consuming trying to test stability with anything faster/tigher!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> I am booting on an 830 256gb, .


On the saber? Any chance you could post results from AS SSD and ATTO?


----------



## robbo2

Here's what I ended up with. No too bad I'd say


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robbo2*
> 
> Here's what I ended up with. No too bad I'd say


Yeah that's pretty good. I'm having to do 1.5+ volts to get 4.0 on my 1055T.


----------



## pennhaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> Does anyone else have a really annoying lag upon windows load? Where it shows the desktop but you can't open anything for a good 30-45 seconds then it will load gadgets and programs. I seem to recall someone mentioning it being Asus suite(wouldn't surprise me), its REALLY annoying


See my post a couple pages back and the thread at the Asus forum I linked to. Do you have a Rev 2.0? Seems there is a real problem with the Asus services installed with AI Suite. I also am running a fast SSD for Windows but that is not a solution for this issue.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> Runing mine at 2142MHz @ 10-10-10-28 1.5v. Pretty pleased with that, it's really time consuming trying to test stability with anything faster/tigher!
> On the saber? Any chance you could post results from AS SSD and ATTO?


Can't really do any benches right now, but I can tell you when I did do the bench I was over 500 on read and over 410 on average on write.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pennhaven*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> Does anyone else have a really annoying lag upon windows load? Where it shows the desktop but you can't open anything for a good 30-45 seconds then it will load gadgets and programs. I seem to recall someone mentioning it being Asus suite(wouldn't surprise me), its REALLY annoying
> 
> 
> 
> See my post a couple pages back and the thread at the Asus forum I linked to. Do you have a Rev 2.0? Seems there is a real problem with the Asus services installed with AI Suite. I also am running a fast SSD for Windows but that is not a solution for this issue.
Click to expand...

I thought some one had said something, i just didn't look. I am running rev 1 with the rev 2 asus suite. i will uninstall it and see if that is the problem.


----------



## pennhaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> I thought some one had said something, i just didn't look. I am running rev 1 with the rev 2 asus suite. i will uninstall it and see if that is the problem.


Give the uninstall a try first. but I suspect you will also have to go into msconfig.exe and disable all the Asus services.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> I thought some one had said something, i just didn't look. I am running rev 1 with the rev 2 asus suite. i will uninstall it and see if that is the problem.


I am using a rev1 with rev2 suite, no problems here, if your ssd is properly TRIM'd and you have the amd ahci current drivers (not from asus site), you should be 10sec boot times, otherwise you have some timing bottleneck somewhere or something is failing.

There has been the odd case of asus suite bugging at install for some though, requiring its reinstall to work properly.


----------



## wolvers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> Can't really do any benches right now, but I can tell you when I did do the bench I was over 500 on read and over 410 on average on write.


OK, no probs. Is that in AS or ATTO?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> if your ssd is properly TRIM'd and you have the amd ahci current drivers (not from asus site), you should be 10sec boot times, otherwise you have some timing bottleneck somewhere or something is failing.
> .


I'm not getting the write speeds that I think I should be getting and I tried the AMD driver catalyst suite, that includes the SATA driver, and it made my drive worse!







Where did you get your SATA driver from?


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> OK, no probs. Is that in AS or ATTO?
> I'm not getting the write speeds that I think I should be getting and I tried the AMD driver catalyst suite, that includes the SATA driver, and it made my drive worse!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you get your SATA driver from?


AS SSD, and the drivers were http://support.amd.com/us/gpudownload/windows/Pages/raid_windows.aspx#2

Win8 and Win7 use the same drivers. Use the first one.

(raid users need the second one and the third one instead of the first one, first is ahci only)


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> I thought some one had said something, i just didn't look. I am running rev 1 with the rev 2 asus suite. i will uninstall it and see if that is the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> I am using a rev1 with rev2 suite, no problems here, if your ssd is properly TRIM'd and you have the amd ahci current drivers (not from asus site), you should be 10sec boot times, otherwise you have some timing bottleneck somewhere or something is failing.
> 
> There has been the odd case of asus suite bugging at install for some though, requiring its reinstall to work properly.
Click to expand...

I just went back to windows 7, the windows 8 i had was too buggy. I had the same problem that started shortly before i went to 8 but performed a clean install. i haven't installed suite yet and don't have the problem. i will install and see if it changes


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> I just went back to windows 7, the windows 8 i had was too buggy. I had the same problem that started shortly before i went to 8 but performed a clean install. i haven't installed suite yet and don't have the problem. i will install and see if it changes


Don't feel bad, there's plenty of benchmarks showing Windows 8 performing slightly worse by a hair than Windows 7 anyway. Personally I see Windows 8 as the next Microsoft flop, fisher price layouts have no place as a workstation platform interface medium.

I run it in a vm for software dev testing, but will never use it as a primary os.


----------



## wolvers

That's the one I tried, won't be doing that again. It caused my install to stop booting and I had to use system restore to get it back to working order.







Also, after installing my AS write speeds crumbled. Any ideas? It forces a GPU driver install as well.

Anyone know how to stop the AI suite from launching at start up?


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> That's the one I tried, won't be doing that again. It caused my install to stop booting and I had to use system restore to get it back to working order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, after installing my AS write speeds crumbled. Any ideas? It forces a GPU driver install as well.
> Anyone know how to stop the AI suite from launching at start up?


I use those drivers on all my amd chipset systems with no problem, and they do outperform the stock Microsoft drivers in AHCI. : /

You may have other problems, or your os just is hanky and needs a redo. (When I do memory and oc testing I do it on a spare drive with a test clone of the main drive as to avoid a broken os on my main drive, I also disconnect all other drives until I am absolutely sure it is stable in all aspects as to avoid corruption.)


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> I just went back to windows 7, the windows 8 i had was too buggy. I had the same problem that started shortly before i went to 8 but performed a clean install. i haven't installed suite yet and don't have the problem. i will install and see if it changes
> 
> 
> 
> Don't feel bad, there's plenty of benchmarks showing Windows 8 performing slightly worse by a hair than Windows 7 anyway. Personally I see Windows 8 as the next Microsoft flop, fisher price layouts have no place as a workstation platform interface medium.
> 
> I run it in a vm for software dev testing, but will never use it as a primary os.
Click to expand...

the only reason i DID install it was because it is supposed to support FX chips better than 7... not worth it though


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> the only reason i DID install it was because it is supposed to support FX chips better than 7... not worth it though


Sadly, it really doesn't. Not something noticeable anyway on PD's. Who wants a fisher price tablet/phone interface made for little kids on their "grown up" use workstation anyway. Even apple didn't try to force the iPhone interface on their desktops, I have no clue what Microsoft was thinking.


----------



## wolvers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> I use those drivers on all my amd chipset systems with no problem, and they do outperform the stock Microsoft drivers in AHCI. : /
> You may have other problems, or your os just is hanky and needs a redo. (When I do memory and oc testing I do it on a spare drive with a test clone of the main drive as to avoid a broken os on my main drive, I also disconnect all other drives until I am absolutely sure it is stable in all aspects as to avoid corruption.)


Maybe its a win8 thing.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> Maybe its a win8 thing.


Could be, I know win7 is rock solid. You may be stuck with win8 AHCI built-in drivers then and just hope they don't perform like butt. Orrrrr.... you could just do what many of us are doing, and just run Win7 until Win9 comes out to avoid the cow goes moo interface metro pfft Windows 8. It really isn't a perf boost to use 8 over 7.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> the only reason i DID install it was because it is supposed to support FX chips better than 7... not worth it though
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly, it really doesn't. Not something noticeable anyway on PD's. Who wants a fisher price tablet/phone interface made for little kids on their "grown up" use workstation anyway. Even apple didn't try to force the iPhone interface on their desktops, I have no clue what Microsoft was thinking.
Click to expand...

i did like a couple features of 8 but yeah no start and no gadgets is a step in the wrong direction. i read that they are going to continue to push that style pretty much no matter how 8 does. looks like i will be sticking with 7 for the indefinite future. i also did notice a TINY power savings under 8. very tiny though


----------



## Warmonger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> the only reason i DID install it was because it is supposed to support FX chips better than 7... not worth it though


Windows 8 comes with the scedualar patch pre-applied. You can pick up the hotfix for Windows 7 also.
Patch 1
Patch 2
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> Could be, I know win7 is rock solid. You may be stuck with win8 AHCI built-in drivers then and just hope they don't perform like butt. Orrrrr.... you could just do what many of us are doing, and just run Win7 until Win9 comes out to avoid the cow goes moo interface metro pfft Windows 8. It really isn't a perf boost to use 8 over 7.


So far it looks like Windows 9 will be no different then Windows 8. The classic start menu may be gone for good, from what it appears. Especially with Windows 8 selling as good as it is, plus the introduction of the Windows Store. Windows 8 does have a huge performance advantage in doing certain tasks, thanks to its hardware accelerated shapes, fonts, bitmaps etc. Tho I agree that its not really all that faster at executing code, but it is over 100% faster at displaying the codes output.


----------



## sunset1

the cow goes moo.. you are killing me over here.. ;>
yea i learned the hard lesson on overclocking on my stable system drive...


----------



## Warmonger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> the cow goes moo.. you are killing me over here.. ;>
> yea i learned the hard lesson on overclocking on my stable system drive...


----------



## bmgjet

Never lost my boot drive when overclocking and have been overclocking since the days of having to jumper pins and a good overclock was 3-4mhz more lol.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warmonger*
> 
> Windows 8 comes with the scedualar patch pre-applied. You can pick up the hotfix for Windows 7 also.
> Patch 1
> Patch 2
> So far it looks like Windows 9 will be no different then Windows 8. The classic start menu may be gone for good, from what it appears. Especially with Windows 8 selling as good as it is, plus the introduction of the Windows Store. Windows 8 does have a huge performance advantage in doing certain tasks, thanks to its hardware accelerated shapes, fonts, bitmaps etc. Tho I agree that its not really all that faster at executing code, but it is over 100% faster at displaying the codes output.


I wouldn't go as far as to call it 100% (maybe like 0.5% or 1%, 2% is pushing it in rare cases like office 2012)

http://www.techspot.com/review/561-windows8-vs-windows7/page2.html

Games
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/windows-8-gaming-performance,3331-5.html
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/windows-8-gaming-performance,3331-6.html

In games it is near equal (give or take 1 or 2 fps) or worse than windows 7, and in multimedia it only "barely" wins by an unnoticeable hair. (Only real noticeable difference is in things like office, where you save a whole 0.2 seconds.)

Office and Disk and More games
http://www.techspot.com/review/561-windows8-vs-windows7/page3.html

Then there is that pcmark and 3dmark both do better in 7.

So where are these magic 100% faster benchmarks I have not seen anywhere nor have I seen on my own personal hardware? The hit to productivity alone negates the "tiny tiny" 2d render perks you may get in windows 8. Your part of the Windows 8 Fan Club, it can't possibly have issues I guess....


----------



## Warmonger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> I wouldn't go as far as to call it 100% (maybe like 0.5% or 1%, 2% is pushing it in rare cases like office 2012)
> http://www.techspot.com/review/561-windows8-vs-windows7/page2.html
> Games
> http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/windows-8-gaming-performance,3331-5.html
> http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/windows-8-gaming-performance,3331-6.html
> In games it is near equal (give or take 1 or 2 fps) or worse than windows 7, and in multimedia it only "barely" wins by an unnoticeable hair. (Only real noticeable difference is in things like office, where you save a whole 0.2 seconds.)
> Office and Disk and More games
> http://www.techspot.com/review/561-windows8-vs-windows7/page3.html
> Then there is that pcmark and 3dmark both do better in 7.
> So where are these magic 100% faster benchmarks I have not seen anywhere nor have I seen on my own personal hardware? The hit to productivity alone negates the "tiny tiny" 2d render perks you may get in windows 8. I forgot, your part of the Windows 8 Fan Club, it can't possibly have issues.
> Edit: on another note, you don't even have a sabertooth, so why are you jumping in over here again.


On official Microsoft blog. You're not talking about the same subject I am, hopefully the link will help you understand better.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warmonger*
> 
> On official Microsoft blog. You're not talking about the same subject I am, hopefully the link will help you understand better.


I will not base performance gains of ridiculous amounts claimed by a Microsoft blog. Sorry, I only use real world numbers on real computers using real world use scenarios. Even office 2010 loads only 0.2 seconds quicker than it does in windows 7 (THIS INCLUDES RENDER), and that is one of the very few perks Windows 8 actually has. Outside of that, disk perf seems to have gone down, so has game perf.

On another note, this isn't the Biostar owners club. Please blab baseless 100% values that don't exist in a thread where you are even part of the club.


----------



## Warmonger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> I will not base performance gains of ridiculous amounts claimed by a Microsoft blog. Sorry, I only use real world numbers on real computers using real world use scenarios. Even office 2010 loads only 0.2 seconds quicker than it does in windows 7 (THIS INCLUDES RENDER), and that is one of the very few perks Windows 8 actually has. Outside of that, disk perf seems to have gone down, so has game perf.
> On another note, this isn't the Biostar owners club. Please blab baseless 100% values that don't exist in a thread where you aren't even part of the club.


Once the thread got off onto Windows 8 discussion all user input is valid.


----------



## sunset1

* sunset one carefully changes the subjet with a random post. ;> hi everyone!


----------



## endevite

@Wolvers: Let us know if you were able to resolve your possible bottleneck with win8 amd ahci drivers, if not, could you post the as ssd and crystaldiskinfo data? Could prove or eliminate that as the problem at the very least.


----------



## Mistral

I'm having no problems with Win 8 and I find it substantially faster than 7 in most things.


----------



## wolvers

Is anyone had any luck with the 'user' fan profile in Thermal Radar? I just can't get the graph how I want it, the plot points won't go where I want them to. Odd.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> @Wolvers: Let us know if you were able to resolve your possible bottleneck with win8 amd ahci drivers, if not, could you post the as ssd and crystaldiskinfo data? Could prove or eliminate that as the problem at the very least.


OK, will do. I think actually that the MS drivers are performing fine, just that my drive isn't as fast in AS as I was expecting. In ATTO it looks much better anbd checking reviews on the 330 series show this to be the case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> I'm having no problems with Win 8 and I find it substantially faster than 7 in most things.


Agreed, but that's not what we were originally discussing as this isn't a generic Win8 thread.









Does this forum have many mods? Every thread I find that's interesting and informative about my latest hardware gets quickly derailed into debates about something completely







.







Like that muppet that kept filling the Vishera thread with Intel







.


----------



## sunset1

yes the rest of us are still here. Im just waiting for the sideshow to end. ;>
my ai suite is fubar after a update. but i was able to change profiles by changing the top row. sliding to the left or right and then it let me modify somewhat. like its based on percentages. Move the left or right dot (slide it to the left or right. then you can adjust it somewhat. The issues i had was that my
machine was not auto starting as well when i hit the keyboard after sleep. Ill have more info when i get it reinstalled.

If a certain poster annoys you click on their nick and there is a "block" function.
It can substantially lower your blood pressure. :>


----------



## wolvers

So you can't put the plot points wherever you like?


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> So you can't put the plot points wherever you like?


mine has done that from day one and is why i don't use it for fan control. on my old board i used pc probe II for fan control but now i just let the H100 control 'em


----------



## lastguytom

i use gskill ripsaw series(red) 4x4 1600mhz memory in my sabertooth rev 1.0
i use the MODEL NUMBER ASUS SUGGEST ON ASUS MEMORY LIST SAME MODEL TYPE, do you THINK I SHOULD CLOCK MY BOARD TO IT ???
(PLEASE BE KIND I AM A NOOB AT THIS ) ALWAYS LOVED AND SUPPORT AMD!!! AND ASUS,
I WAS GOING TO MAX MY BOARD MEMORY AT 32GB BY GOING WITH 1866 4X8 DDR3??
THINK I SHOULD DO THAT OR IS MY SPEED on my current memory good , BE KIND TO us NOOBs!!!


----------



## wolvers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> mine has done that from day one and is why i don't use it for fan control.


That's a massive bummer!!


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> That's a massive bummer!!


Likely, you would be safer with a physical control anyway, what would happen if you did manage a software control option and it "glitched" causing way to low rpm with stall outs or outright fan shutoff. In general, it may not be as easy to deal with like a software gui, but manual control is less likely to flake out, that is outside of hardware failure. ;p


----------



## bmgjet

New firmware is out for the R2.0 will be trying it soon.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> New firmware is out for the R2.0 will be trying it soon.


You sir are indeed correct, supposedly it improves stability.

Here is the link for other rev2 owners.
http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R2.0/SABERTOOTH-990FX-R20-ASUS-1201.zip


----------



## Raephen

Actually, FanXpert - which is part of the M5A99X-EVO's AI Suite, but was surprisingly lacking from the Sabertooth's package - will install and work perfectly on a Sabertooth 990FX system.

I use it for most of my fan-control.


----------



## bmgjet

Wouldnt accept my overclock I had on 11XX
Looks like they have changed the ram timings settings again. Have to run slightly looser on some of the read to write delays.
LLC looks to be changed as well, Ultra was boosting me from 1.5V up to 1.52V now its going up to 1.54V so would hate to see what extreme does.

Dont have time to do any real stress testing but it passed 4 passes of IBT one I loosened those timings.

Also has any one else noticed that Level 2 cache read is slower then level 3 cache read
Hell level 2 is only 2gb/s faster than my ram.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> mine has done that from day one and is why i don't use it for fan control.
> 
> 
> 
> That's a massive bummer!!
Click to expand...

the H100 actually does a pretty decent job. i can keep it on the silent setting pretty much all the time


----------



## zzztopzzz

I'm seeing about 32c on my chip no matter what I do and the H100 doesn't seem to howl at all. NB get up to 40-42c and seems to be the only hot spot on my board - eh.


----------



## wolvers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Actually, FanXpert - which is part of the M5A99X-EVO's AI Suite, but was surprisingly lacking from the Sabertooth's package - will install and work perfectly on a Sabertooth 990FX system.
> I use it for most of my fan-control.


Interesting!!

Cheers


----------



## MrThatGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Wouldnt accept my overclock I had on 11XX
> Looks like they have changed the ram timings settings again. Have to run slightly looser on some of the read to write delays.
> LLC looks to be changed as well, Ultra was boosting me from 1.5V up to 1.52V now its going up to 1.54V so would hate to see what extreme does.
> Dont have time to do any real stress testing but it passed 4 passes of IBT one I loosened those timings.
> Also has any one else noticed that Level 2 cache read is slower then level 3 cache read
> Hell level 2 is only 2gb/s faster than my ram.


This is with the 1201 version BIOS?


----------



## sunset1

@raephen thenks for the post!


----------



## bmgjet

yes


----------



## pendrago

Allright folkes









Quick question for you. After updating my BIOS from *1208 (modded version)* to *1604* I have noticed that temperatures of Northbridge and Memory sticks went up. They are now around 6*C higher than before in idle.

I've checked my memory with a WinMemTest for errors and system was fully stressed. Northbridge temp was 40*C and so was the temp of my RAM. Could you tell me if you noticed the same thing after Bios update? Is it normal for FX-6100? I haven't overclocked it yet, so it has run with stock speed 3.3 GHz. Quite strange.

___________

And another question.



Could anyone exlplain to me what are *Temperature 1* and *Temperature 2* on Aida's OSD Sensor panel?
Temp 1 - is it responsible for *VRM* temperature?
Temp 2 - I have no clue :/ (SB ?)


----------



## Warmonger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Allright folkes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick question for you. After updating my BIOS from *1208 (modded version)* to *1604* I have noticed that temperatures of Northbridge and Memory sticks went up. They are now around 6*C higher than before in idle.
> I've checked my memory with a WinMemTest for errors and system was fully stressed. Northbridge temp was 40*C and so was the temp of my RAM. Could you tell me if you noticed the same thing after Bios update? Is it normal for FX-6100? I haven't overclocked it yet, so it has run with stock speed 3.3 GHz. Quite strange.
> ___________
> And another question.
> 
> Could anyone exlplain to me what are *Temperature 1* and *Temperature 2* on Aida's OSD Sensor panel?
> Temp 1 - is it responsible for *VRM* temperature?
> Temp 2 - I have no clue :/ (SB ?)


The Aida64 manual shows them being TTEMP1 as Temperature #1 and TTEMP2 as Temperature #2. Which goes all the way up to TTEMP20, so my guess they would be for the boards "TUF Thermal Radar". Which are just random sensors placed on the board to let you know if you're building hot spots in certain areas of your machine. Either that or they are hard drive temps, has to be one of them two options.

Edit: Nope not hard drive. Hard drive temps are THDD#.


----------



## pendrago

And what about increased temperature after BIOS Update?
Quote:


> The Aida64 manual shows them being TTEMP1 as Temperature #1 and TTEMP2 as Temperature #2. Which goes all the way up to TTEMP20, so my guess they would be for the boards "TUF Thermal Radar". Which are just random sensors placed on the board to let you know if you're building hot spots in certain areas of your machine. Either that or they are hard drive temps, has to be one of them two options.
> 
> Edit: Nope not hard drive. Hard drive temps are THDD#.


Well, it's quite strange, but it would be good to know what is their function. You wrote that they are random - in sabertooth user's manual there is a picture with location of all those sensors and two of them are near *VRM* AFAIR.
I have disabled HDD temp in OSD panel, so those TEMP 1 and TEMP 2 are not HDD temperatures.


----------



## Warmonger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> And what about increased temperature after BIOS Update?
> Well, it's quite strange, but it would be good to know what is their function. You wrote that they are random - in sabertooth user's manual there is a picture with location of all those sensors and two of them are near *VRM* AFAIR.
> I have disabled HDD temp in OSD panel, so those TEMP 1 and TEMP 2 are not HDD temperatures.


I've learned to never trust bios temp readouts. If your temps are still the same in CoreTemp and Aida64, then I wouldn't worry about it. Bios code for reading sensors has always been terrible since bios's existed. As for the random sensors, I don't mean technically random like dropped on like sprinkles. But in a way that it can monitor certain areas of your board (will be the same spots on every other Sabertooth). I would pull out the spec sheet on ASUS's website, and pin point every senor they built into the board. That way you can rule out what its not, which is the best way to find out what they are. And possibly which sensor correlates with which temperature.


----------



## zzztopzzz

Your temps are fair close to mine. My NB runs about 42c is anything is going on.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> @raephen thenks for the post!


You might also be interested to know that even though one of the marketing points is something along the lines of "extra PWM connectors!", the case-fan connectors on my Saberkitten control 3-pin voltage regulated fans.

I use them to control the fans on my radiators, with the help of Fan Xpert.

So either the 4-pin case-fan connectors are some form of hybrid, or just plain old 3-pin vr ones with an extra pin for good looks.

You can control a pwm fan with voltage regulation, bur not the other way arround: a vr-fan (3-pin) with pwm.


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzztopzzz*
> 
> Your temps are fair close to mine. My NB runs about 42c is anything is going on.


And could you tell me which BIOS version you have? Ok! The latest probably because you've got FX-8350.
Is there any chance that previous BIOSES are better especially for FX-6100 (I mean, they if they are more stable)?
Quote:


> @Warmonger I've learned to never trust bios temp readouts. If your temps are still the same in CoreTemp and Aida64, then I wouldn't worry about it.


But as I wrote, they were around 5*C lower when I had 1090T Thuban CPU, so I look for an answer. What has caused temperature increase in NB and RAM, because that could make my system to be more unstable when I start to overclock it.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zzztopzzz*
> 
> Your temps are fair close to mine. My NB runs about 42c is anything is going on.
> 
> 
> 
> And could you tell me which BIOS version you have? Ok! The latest probably because you've got FX-8350.
> Is there any chance that previous BIOSES are better especially for FX-6100 (I mean, they if they are more stable)?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> @Warmonger I've learned to never trust bios temp readouts. If your temps are still the same in CoreTemp and Aida64, then I wouldn't worry about it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> But as I wrote, they were around 5*C lower when I had 1090T Thuban CPU, so I look for an answer. What has caused temperature increase in NB and RAM, because that could make my system to be more unstable when I start to overclock it.
Click to expand...

No other changes were made in regards to airflow within the case?


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> No other changes were made in regards to airflow within the case?


Nope. For a year my Thuban CPU had been cooled down by Scythe Mugen 2. I have recently installed EK custom watercooling system, so it should have even been cooler than before. I guess. That's only FX-6100 running on a default clock and memory running at 1600 MHz (ATM).


----------



## zzztopzzz

Warmonger:

My BIOS is the latest & greatest; i.e.1604. Ocassionally you run into a BIOS upgrade that causes problems. That happened with 1208 when I still had my 1055T installed and just prior to my recent FX-8350 upgrade. However, the problems that I had with that particular BIOS were not associated with temps (never found out what, exactly). What i did was re-install 1304 and all was well once again. Looking at all of your temps, I really don't see a problem. If it spikes upwards, say around 50c-60c, then I would probably shutdown and tear it apart to find out what's going on. Maybe you want check on the effectiveness of your case fans, making sure there are no hidden obstructions. Also, are you pulling air out or pushing air in? That could make a difference if you have fans opposing each other. Probably not the case, but worth mentioning. I have a large case and it employs about 6 fans not counting the motherboard and the H100. I run the H100 full blast, all the time, and seldom if ever do my temps budge much no matter what I'm doing. I wouldn't get 'paranoid' about it. If something happens and it gets hot enough, it's going to shut down anyway (assuming your BIOS is setup properly).


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Nope. For a year my Thuban CPU had been cooled down by Scythe Mugen 2. I have recently installed EK custom watercooling system, so it should have even been cooler than before. I guess. That's only FX-6100 running on a default clock and memory running at 1600 MHz (ATM).


Have you tried reseating the cpu-waterblock? My XSPC Raystorm block was a bugger to mount, but when I got it right, my FX-4170 could handle 4,8GHz without breaking too much of a sweat. It even broke the 5 GHz last week: for a bit during OCCT stressing my mix of bus and multiplier oc. The bus jumped from the 240 I had set it at to 250, causing the chip to run over 5 for a bit. Still, 50 C cpu socket is the max for during that 1 hour test.

I had a Prolimatech Genesis with two TR TY-140 fans, first, and while both idle and max stress test temps are only a 5-ish C cooler with my custom loop, the temps while playing a game, for instance, are much lower than with the Genesis.


----------



## shampoo911

im using a noctua nh-d14 with stock fans... arctic MX-2... and pretty much of a good airflow in my case... and my 8150 does not get near 48ºC


----------



## pendrago

OK. I think I have to explain excactly what is the issue here.

The issue is not the temperature of my CPU waterblock. I have stressed my CPU twice since I have WC and temperatures in:

Core Temp 1.0 RC 4
idle: max 9*C per core
IBT: max 25*C per core

Though I have Scythe Kaze Server fan controller with 4 sensors attached. There are 3 fans set up on the radiator which I have installed outside the case.

here is a picture:










Temperature measured by sensors on the inflow spot on the radiator in idle is sth around *24.5*C*.
Under max stress it shows temperature higher no more than *3-4*C* . So, I think there is no problem with my EK Waterblock.

It is just about temperatures of my NB and Memory which ran before around 5*C cooler than now.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> im using a noctua nh-d14 with stock fans... arctic MX-2... and pretty much of a good airflow in my case... and my 8150 does not get near 48ºC


I used EK Custom WC setup (all is in my signature) and *Silver Arctic 5* as a thermal compound. The problem now is whether software like CoreTemp and Aida 64 show correct temperature or not and if they don't is it related to BIOS upgrade from 1208 to 1604?

I hope I made this clear enough now


----------



## 03threefiftyz

Alright, I'm a bit of noob, but I can't seem to get the new memory I got to work. Memory is 4x4 2133mhz G.Skill Ripjaw Z's. Bios is 1604. First off, it only seems to initially recognize it at 1600mhz (though you can get it up to 2100+ through tinkering). Even at 1600, once you save and reboot, it won't boot. Only way to get it back to Bios is through Mem Ok. I can run the old 1333mhz G.Skill up to 1800mhz no problem. When using mem ok, the screen comes up saying memory OK. Any help would be appreciated...


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *03threefiftyz*
> 
> Alright, I'm a bit of noob, but I can't seem to get the new memory I got to work. Memory is 4x4 2133mhz G.Skill Ripjaw Z's. Bios is 1604. First off, it only seems to initially recognize it at 1600mhz (though you can get it up to 2100+ through tinkering). Even at 1600, once you save and reboot, it won't boot. Only way to get it back to Bios is through Mem Ok. I can run the old 1333mhz G.Skill up to 1800mhz no problem. When using mem ok, the screen comes up saying memory OK. Any help would be appreciated...


The reason for this could be weaker Integrated Memory Controller (IMC) in your 955 Phenom II. Due to its limitations you won't see any 1866 or higher multiplier in BIOS. There is no limitation in new chips like Bulldozer (Zambezi and Piledriver) because they have "stronger" IMC (it's a new architechture than Deneb core) - somebody please correct me if I am wrong.

Check this out AMD FX Performance Tuning Guide !


----------



## bmgjet

BD will run 1866mhz and higher no problem just you need to start raising the CPU-NB voltage around 1900mhz.
PD on the other hand will do higher as well but scaling slows down above 1866mhz and above 2100mhz I saw negitive scaling.


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Nope. For a year my Thuban CPU had been cooled down by Scythe Mugen 2. I have recently installed EK custom watercooling system, so it should have even been cooler than before. I guess. That's only FX-6100 running on a default clock and memory running at 1600 MHz (ATM).


So you're saying you notice the temp increase since you put in a new CPU and new BIOS and new watercooling system?

The fan on the CPU heatsink will have moved air around the heatsinks for the VRM & northbridge, so removing that fan, via installing the watercooling will cause a temp increase.


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*
> 
> So you're saying you notice the temp increase since you put in a new CPU and new BIOS and new watercooling system?
> 
> The fan on the CPU heatsink will have moved air around the heatsinks for the VRM & northbridge, so removing that fan, via installing the watercooling will cause a temp increase.


Maybe you are right, but... My memory sticks are low profile and fans cooling my Mugen were above those sticks. I got 2 extra fans installed at the top of the case pulling the air out of the case. Hmmm.
I was wondering about installing 1 extra 120 mm fan which would push the air right at the top of Northbridge radiator and additionally something like this:

Kingston HyperX KHX-FAN-B Fans
or this
CORSAIR CMXAF1 Fans

What do you think? Are any of those worth of installing them?
And (because I was thinking about that 1 x 120 mm fan blowing onto NB) do you know any sollution or a way how to mount it there? Are there any holders or anything I could use to install it there firmly? Any suggestions?


----------



## Krusher33

I guess I should have been more clear about asking about airflow in the case. I actually meant over the NB and VRM heatsinks.

Try holding a fan over the area and see if that improves things.

ADD: I was going to take a picture of what I did. It's a fan holder made from small piece of aluminum. Camera battery is dead.


----------



## Mega Man

Random question. i have a sabertooth 990fx r2.0 and when i increase core voltage my VID does not increase. anyone else have this problem?

causing stability issues with my OC, i cant hit 4.3ghz on my 8350 without extreme amount of LLC which is causing my heats to be unreasonable. only way i can seem to adj the vid is with AOD

new to asus boards and Overclocking. any help would be appriciated...


----------



## bmgjet

Make sure you have the latest bios.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Random question. i have a sabertooth 990fx r2.0 and when i increase core voltage my VID does not increase. anyone else have this problem?
> causing stability issues with my OC, i cant hit 4.3ghz on my 8350 without extreme amount of LLC which is causing my heats to be unreasonable. only way i can seem to adj the vid is with AOD
> new to asus boards and Overclocking. any help would be appriciated...


VID is your cpu's stock voltage; the voltage AMD set it at to run at stock speed.

Some programs mention it, but apart from telling you what the stock voltage is it has no use.

Vcore in Asus's Sensor terms is what you mean, I guess. The voltage your chip is running at.

And on a side note: Core temps with AMD chips are still only guesstimates, and while they may be close under load, I'd sooner look at the socket temperature for an idea of how hot the chip runs.


----------



## Raephen

Here's a picture with a single 60mm XR2 mounted over the lower bit of the vrm heatsink. A second XR2 is on it's way (cheap but damn good a surprisingly silent fans for 60mm)



The picture is a bit dark, but the fan can be made out left of the cpu-block.

I had some 80mm slim fans (2-pin) lying arround. I tried those first, but since they lacked the rpm wire, I have no idea at which speeds those ran. I just know they were damn noisy.

I used double sided tape to secure a strip of black plastic to the heatsink and then used the tape to fasten the fans to the strip.


----------



## wolvers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> And on a side note: Core temps with AMD chips are still only guesstimates, and while they may be close under load, I'd sooner look at the socket temperature for an idea of how hot the chip runs.


I wouldn't. It's a sensor imbedded in the socket and is more a board temp. I took over 5C off of mine just be putting fans on the VRM heatsink and reducing board temps in that area. You need to look at all of the temps together.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> VID is your cpu's stock voltage; the voltage AMD set it at to run at stock speed.
> Some programs mention it, but apart from telling you what the stock voltage is it has no use.
> Vcore in Asus's Sensor terms is what you mean, I guess. The voltage your chip is running at.
> And on a side note: Core temps with AMD chips are still only guesstimates, and while they may be close under load, I'd sooner look at the socket temperature for an idea of how hot the chip runs.


thanks on my Fx6100, it seemed to change when i changed the core setting. but this was on a gigabyte board.


----------



## Raephen

Here are some screenshots made after over an hour of OCCT, Large data set.

I dialed my OC back down to pure multiplier (24x) with a bus speed of 200 in BIOS. The mix of bus/multi OC proved to be harder to get stable.

And on a side note: Vcore seems to be bouncing arround between 1,452 and 1,464 V. Still, a nice Vcore for a 4,8GHz OC.


----------



## dabysk

Hello there. i would like to join the club and share my cpu-z validation on a sabertooth 990fx.

FX8120 on [email protected],268 Ghz, 16GB [email protected],248 Ghz, HD6870 [email protected] 1000/1200 MHz









http://valid.canardpc.com/2584514

This was just for the numbers, I consider that a overclock is someting that you can run 24/7.

Right now i'm running 5Ghz, [email protected], [email protected], Vcore=1.5V, [email protected]

but thinking in going back to 4.8Ghz, [email protected], [email protected], Vcore=1.4V, [email protected]


----------



## bmgjet

Nice your rig is very close to mine.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2562391

6850 cf @ 1025/1190mhz (Water cooled by Antec 620s)
8GB @ 1688mhz (Was running at 2ghz when I had the 8120 but PD likes timings over frequency)
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2108330


----------



## sunset1

one note the comunity choice awards were missing sabertooth 990fx in the motherboard section.. but there were some asus.. you can do a write in for any motherboard you feel should be listed.
and now back to our regular program.. :>


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Maybe you are right, but... My memory sticks are low profile and fans cooling my Mugen were above those sticks. I got 2 extra fans installed at the top of the case pulling the air out of the case. Hmmm.
> I was wondering about installing 1 extra 120 mm fan which would push the air right at the top of Northbridge radiator and additionally something like this:
> What do you think? Are any of those worth of installing them?
> And (because I was thinking about that 1 x 120 mm fan blowing onto NB) do you know any sollution or a way how to mount it there? Are there any holders or anything I could use to install it there firmly? Any suggestions?


The Kingston one looks cool (pun intended), Corsair one does not mention noise level??. but either might be a good choice.

General case airflow doesn't really help the VRM/northbridge heat sinks much.

The OEM CPU heat sink/fan blows air down across the sink, then out at all sides moving air across the VRM area, cooling them by default. That changes with the lack of the fan right there by using a water cooling block with no fan, to help the VRM stay cool. So some kind of fan blowing on the VRM area seems to be the best help for you.

Many types of fan can be adapted to blow air there with a little ingenuity. Velcro, electrical ties, metal brackets, whatever you can manage.


----------



## sunset1

what sgthawker said.. I need to put a fan on mine. I have seen a few pics in these posts in the past where people have found a few ways.. recently someone used the cooling block screws but im not sure who it was.

my ssd took a dump so i get to reload my os thank god i ordered a backup.. too bad my new backup software came in today.. oh well . at least it will get installed this time. And a ghost type image. lesson learned.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> what sgthawker said.. I need to put a fan on mine. I have seen a few pics in these posts in the past where people have found a few ways.. recently someone used the cooling block screws but im not sure who it was. .





-dimwit-


----------



## sunset1

hahah there ya go. :>


----------



## bmgjet

Starting to hate the stupid ram slots on this board and the fact that it wont let me run only 1 stick of ram.
Guess the GF has to go with out her PC for 2 days then.


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*
> 
> The Kingston one looks cool (pun intended), Corsair one does not mention noise level??. but either might be a good choice.


I think I would choose Kingston over Corsair but the problem is that they are not available to buy anywhere (at least in Poland








Quote:


> General case airflow doesn't really help the VRM/northbridge heat sinks much.
> 
> The OEM CPU heat sink/fan blows air down across the sink, then out at all sides moving air across the VRM area, cooling them by default. That changes with the lack of the fan right there by using a water cooling block with no fan, to help the VRM stay cool. So some kind of fan blowing on the VRM area seems to be the best help for you.
> 
> Many types of fan can be adapted to blow air there with a little ingenuity. Velcro, electrical ties, metal brackets, whatever you can manage.


OK! I think now I have it done (well, partially). Because it's a 2000 RPM fan it gets shaky and trembles a little bit. It's a question of mounting the fan more firmly.



So, now my NB temp under full load is around 32-34*C.


----------



## wolvers

I've gone from 906 to the latest bios for the r2 and it looks like they've changed the way LLC behaves. On ultra high it no longer raises the core under load, it remains stable which is I want it really. It's also a nice flat line in OCCT so that's good, on high it still moves around too much for me.

Having to retest my OC though.


----------



## Mistral

I used a Coolermaster variable speed 80mm cpu fan mounted to the water block bracket with 2 self tapping screws and rubber grommets the fan speed is variable from 2750rpm to 4760rpm, at 2750rpm the NB temp stays below 29c.


----------



## pendrago

@Mistral Are those temp (I mean below 29*C) measured in idle or under load? What is your max temp for NB and VRM under load?


----------



## Mistral

29c is the NB under load VRM 24c under load, ambient temp is 20c, NB sometimes hits 30c if the ambient goes up a few degrees. It doesn't seem to vary much from idle to load. The case is a HAF X with 1x230mm front fan, 1x200mm side fan, 1x140mm rear fan and 2x200mm top fans. I haven't run the 80mm above minimum rpm so I don't know what the temps would be if I increase the speed. The temps are with the CPU @ 5.0ghz CPU/NB 2600Mhz.


----------



## PCEnthusiast85

what up ya.

i just got my Sabertooth and love it so far. My formula doesnt even like my 1090t @ 4.25ghz but the minute i thru it on this badboy...sucked it right up and has been runing "almost fine"

when i first plugged the board in and booted for the first time i got a double splash screen. is this normal?
this is what happens on boot.
shows the TUF STUFF splash,
black screen that says" detecting drives" (er something like that) ....no drives detected
Tufstuff splash screen
black screen
windows boots

also just this morning it went crazy on me and dropped and F3 and 124 code right after one another so im trouble shooting that right now prolly just needs some juice

this was a vendor returned board @ micro center...even if it needs an rma or something... NIB (all accessories still bagged and even got the sticker!!) for 100$ out the door is cool with me!


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCEnthusiast85*
> 
> what up ya.
> i just got my Sabertooth and love it so far. My formula doesnt even like my 1090t @ 4.25ghz but the minute i thru it on this badboy...sucked it right up and has been runing "almost fine"
> when i first plugged the board in and booted for the first time i got a double splash screen. is this normal?
> this is what happens on boot.
> shows the TUF STUFF splash,
> black screen that says" detecting drives" (er something like that) ....no drives detected
> Tufstuff splash screen
> black screen
> windows boots
> also just this morning it went crazy on me and dropped and F3 and 124 code right after one another so im trouble shooting that right now prolly just needs some juice
> this was a vendor returned board @ micro center...even if it needs an rma or something... NIB (all accessories still bagged and even got the sticker!!) for 100$ out the door is cool with me!


When I disabled the additional marvell(?) sata chip, it stopped doing that.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCEnthusiast85*
> 
> what up ya.
> 
> i just got my Sabertooth and love it so far. My formula doesnt even like my 1090t @ 4.25ghz but the minute i thru it on this badboy...sucked it right up and has been runing "almost fine"
> 
> when i first plugged the board in and booted for the first time i got a double splash screen. is this normal?
> this is what happens on boot.
> shows the TUF STUFF splash,
> black screen that says" detecting drives" (er something like that) ....no drives detected
> Tufstuff splash screen
> black screen
> windows boots
> 
> also just this morning it went crazy on me and dropped and F3 and 124 code right after one another so im trouble shooting that right now prolly just needs some juice
> 
> this was a vendor returned board @ micro center...even if it needs an rma or something... NIB (all accessories still bagged and even got the sticker!!) for 100$ out the door is cool with me!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCEnthusiast85*
> 
> what up ya.
> i just got my Sabertooth and love it so far. My formula doesnt even like my 1090t @ 4.25ghz but the minute i thru it on this badboy...sucked it right up and has been runing "almost fine"
> when i first plugged the board in and booted for the first time i got a double splash screen. is this normal?
> this is what happens on boot.
> shows the TUF STUFF splash,
> black screen that says" detecting drives" (er something like that) ....no drives detected
> Tufstuff splash screen
> black screen
> windows boots
> also just this morning it went crazy on me and dropped and F3 and 124 code right after one another so im trouble shooting that right now prolly just needs some juice
> this was a vendor returned board @ micro center...even if it needs an rma or something... NIB (all accessories still bagged and even got the sticker!!) for 100$ out the door is cool with me!
> 
> 
> 
> When I disabled the additional marvell(?) sata chip, it stopped doing that.
Click to expand...

I was wondering about this too.


----------



## zzztopzzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> When I disabled the additional marvell(?) sata chip, it stopped doing that.


When you say "double screen" you don't mean a blurred double image do you? You are referring to a second or sequential splash screen, I'm assuming. I used to get that when I had my 1055T installed but not with the FX-8350. No matter, you can poke through the BIOS and just turn that screen option off if it bugs you.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I was wondering about this too.


i think he is meaning the JMICRON loading screen...


----------



## sunset1

@pcenthusiast85 yea i didnt realize before what the error was but reading it again the above poster citra sounds dead on. its just searching for the drives on the unused sata chip. ^^^ this.. :>
100.00 is a killer deal in my book.
Oh and for those of you who dont know pcenthusiast85 he has that awesome diablo build that sports dwoods goodness. and is also the first person i have found with a 3 clc modded loop. fun stuff.
There is a wealth of info from people in this forum and they are very knowlegable ahd helpful.









Edit either i didnt refresh or you guys are all on the ball tonight. seems i came in last. ;>


----------



## robbo2

So I got the ram back to booting at 1950. Seems it doesn't want to run at 1T which is pretty disappointing. Spent a lot of time messing around with drive strengths and sub-timings, but it just would not do it. Might be the bios or something. I'm not sure.


----------



## Solders18

What is the HPC mode? should it be on or off for PD?


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> What is the HPC mode? should it be on or off for PD?


High Performance Computing

Applications

Apparently only if you might be using such applications.


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> @pcenthusiast85 yea i didnt realize before what the error was but reading it again the above poster citra sounds dead on. its just searching for the drives on the unused sata chip. ^^^ this.. :>
> 100.00 is a killer deal in my book.
> Oh and for those of you who dont know pcenthusiast85 he has that awesome diablo build that sports dwoods goodness. and is also the first person i have found with a 3 clc modded loop. fun stuff.
> There is a wealth of info from people in this forum and they are very knowlegable ahd helpful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit either i didnt refresh or you guys are all on the ball tonight. seems i came in last. ;>


Iv got 3 modded CLCs in my rig lol.

2X 620s which have been lapped on my gfx cards
1X 920 which has been lapped, higher cfm fans and shround on my CPU.

Will soon be replacing the 920 with a H100i .

going to try fit the 920 on the VRM with a custom coper block and the 920 base soldered to it.
Just have to wait and see how much room the 100i will leave me.


----------



## sunset1

@bmgjet haha.. i should have been more precise he made one loop. Man i searched everywhere to find someone that had modified a dual loop found a couple of single modded h50's and others but I was shocked after i built mine to find 3 clcs in a loop with a res.. but like you said before that has some a long way and around the workd. I just re-read that part about the vrms.. we have been talking about attemping that with one of those dual clc kits.

@sgthawker.. i saw that info in the right pannel but does anyone know what apps? I mean would encoding movies be high performance computing? Heck gaming? or is it something else.?


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> What is the HPC mode? should it be on or off for PD?
> 
> 
> 
> High Performance Computing
> 
> Applications
> 
> Apparently only if you might be using such applications.
Click to expand...

so it really doesn't do anything for the average user


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> so it really doesn't do anything for the average user


Generally, science industry and programmers working with high precision computational stuff. Gamers and Office users, not really. But, I use it (I deal with some high tier precision math in my programming), and it isn't effecting my oc in any noticeable way.

IOMMU however, that could work against performance, and is only reaaaly helpful for people who run virtual machines.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *endevite*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> so it really doesn't do anything for the average user
> 
> 
> 
> Generally, science industry and programmers working with high precision computational stuff. Gamers and Office users, not really. But, I use it (I deal with some high tier precision math in my programming), and it isn't effecting my oc in any noticeable way.
> 
> IOMMU however, that could work against performance, and is only reaaaly helpful for people who run virtual machines.
Click to expand...

have you tried both with it on and off?


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> have you tried both with it on and off?


I run with both on, as I use vm's too. ;p

My oc is fine, but with iommu off, I didn't see if I could be more aggressive with memory or if NB would clock higher (not that it matters).


----------



## markshim

hi there ,

has anyone updated the sabertooth 990fx rv.2 motheroards bios in the past day or so to the new one? if so does your logo b4 windows starts look different than b4. because i updated and now the logo looks smaller and the screen is black with the logo in the middle. b4 it was silver and big.


----------



## bmgjet

They resized it.


----------



## wolvers

Can you Saber owning legends please confirm something for me. Which is the voltage setting for the RAM itself, 'DRAM Voltage' or 'VDDR Voltage'?


----------



## bmgjet

Dram voltage.


----------



## wolvers

That's what I thought, but the manual says different................


----------



## sunset1

@wolvers soon you will be the go to guy on this board... if not already.. talk about a crash course..
thanks for all of the posts.

btw guys i was able to click on the latest newegg email and at the bottom? it had a link for tomorrows sale it lists the items. And starts at 1:00pm pacific time. or 2 hours later central time. 3:00.
one thing i noticed was ocz vert3c 3 sp? 120gig drives for 49.99 if you dont have a ssd.. or even if you do.. wow. Im on a buying hiatus and im giving up my credit card back to the wife. It gets cold in the winter... :>
Have a great thanksgiving.
sunset1


----------



## wolvers

I could do with getting some more replies on the RAM voltage question tbh. If it's as the saber manual says, and it is 'VDDR voltage', then my 30nm Samsung RAM is doing 1600MHz CL8 with 1.25v!


----------



## bmgjet

Does that help.
No way my ram can be running at 1.2V when factory is 1.65V


----------



## Mistral

Be told it's the Dram voltage option. The VDDR is the voltage for the memory bus and should never need changing except under extreme circumstances, possibly when overclocking ram to extremes using Dram voltage way above normal.


----------



## wolvers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> 
> Does that help.
> No way my ram can be running at 1.2V when factory is 1.65V


That helps loads, and is consistent with my own experiences. That'll learn me for reading the manual!!









What speeds are your RAM, HT and NB at?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> Be told it's the Dram voltage option. The VDDR is the voltage for the memory bus and should never need changing except under extreme circumstances, possibly when overclocking ram to extremes using Dram voltage way above normal.


Good info, thanks.


----------



## endevite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> I could do with getting some more replies on the RAM voltage question tbh. If it's as the saber manual says, and it is 'VDDR voltage', then my 30nm Samsung RAM is doing 1600MHz CL8 with 1.25v!


Dram Voltage is your overall ram voltage, VDDR is should be memory bus voltage. I recall people insisting it was the memory bus voltage before.

Have also read VDDR effects memory bus read/write voltages in a memory power circuit design article. Possibly an area of interest for pushing tighter timings while maintaining stability at the cost of more heat of course (and who knows what stress will be added to what if increased above stock, safe tolerances I haven't seen documented).


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> @wolvers soon you will be the go to guy on this board... if not already.. talk about a crash course..
> thanks for all of the posts.
> 
> btw guys i was able to click on the latest newegg email and at the bottom? it had a link for tomorrows sale it lists the items. And starts at 1:00pm pacific time. or 2 hours later central time. 3:00.
> one thing i noticed was ocz vert3c 3 sp? 120gig drives for 49.99 if you dont have a ssd.. or even if you do.. wow. Im on a buying hiatus and im giving up my credit card back to the wife. It gets cold in the winter... :>
> Have a great thanksgiving.
> sunset1


It'll be gone before you hit submit.


----------



## sunset1

ahh think positive brother. :> have one in your basket and refresh. all i have to do is input my cc code but im out of this one.. ( i think LOL)
Sunset1

ps if you want one of those ocz vertex 3 drives log into newegg and put one in your cart and then refresh they usually update the servers between now and 315 320 tops. central time.
good luck.
sunset1

well i never saw it .. stil is in stock but no discount down to 49.99
contacted customer service and they are going to email me when its fixed. ill just keep refreshing. till it shows.
sorry for the off topis but at 50.00 im sure someone would benifit.

edit im done never got a responce other than a generic email stating the deals were live. over and out..


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> That helps loads, and is consistent with my own experiences. That'll learn me for reading the manual!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What speeds are your RAM, HT and NB at?
> Good info, thanks.


Ram is something like 1680mhz
NB is something like 2560mhz and ht is 2760mhz

Cant remember the exact amount and arnt on the PC at moment to look.


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Ram is something like 1680mhz
> NB is something like 2560mhz and ht is 2760mhz
> Cant remember the exact amount and arnt on the PC at moment to look.


Not a good idea having your HT higher than the CPU/NB it can make the system unstable.


----------



## bmgjet

PD likes it higher,
3ghz gives the best score in most bench marks but needed to raise the voltage to 1.26V. The gain was too small to warrant that voltage increase tho.
Factory settings its at 2.6ghz and saw a good gain going up to 2.7ghz once the chip was running over 4.6ghz with a base clock overclock.
With multi only overclock it didnt seem to make much difference at all.


----------



## pendrago

Have you noticed this. I got 1604 BIOS release and when I try to enable Unganged Memory Mode (64-bit) I got in CPUz and AIDA the information that the system works in DUAL mode 128-bit








I have tried both options I mean enabling this option and disabling and the result was still the same.



Is this a problem with BIOS or I just simply don't know sth how FX Bulldozers work?


----------



## bmgjet

Mine does the same on my R2.0 on 1201


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Mine does the same on my R2.0 on 1201


And is this a regular behaviour? Because, now I just simply don't know, if I select *Ungage Memory Mode* will it work using this mode. Like I wrote, both *AIDA* and *CPU-z* show that the mode is set to Dual. :/

One more question:
I hit 4.0 GHz today just to check what is the minimum voltage to boot and run (not necessarily stable) for my CPU.
Well, with LLC set on Ultra High (120%) and CPU\NB on High (110%) it booted. It needed 1.280 V and under load 1.293 (almost 1.3). It wasn't stable though.

What is yours *min* Vcore and CPU\NB V to run this chip (Zambezi) without any errors?


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Have you noticed this. I got 1604 BIOS release and when I try to enable Unganged Memory Mode (64-bit) I got in CPUz and AIDA the information that the system works in DUAL mode 128-bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried both options I mean enabling this option and disabling and the result was still the same.
> 
> Is this a problem with BIOS or I just simply don't know sth how FX Bulldozers work?


i dont get your point...

both ganged and unganged are dual channel (as far as i know)... but unganged mode, will access both of your ram sticks at the same time with a 64bit bandwidth...

ganged mode will is dual channel too... but it will access one ram stick at a time with a 128bit bandwidth...


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> i dont get your point...
> both ganged and unganged are dual channel (as far as i know)... but unganged mode, will access both of your ram sticks at the same time with a 64bit bandwidth...
> 
> ganged mode will is dual channel too... but it will access one ram stick at a time with a 128bit bandwidth...


Yeap! You are absolutely right. They are both dual channel, but when I set in Bios Unganged Mode (64-bits) to enabled I get the information from AIDA that it works in 128-bit Dual Channel mode.
Is this more clear now?









One more question.







Have you got your memory set to Channel Interleaving and Bank Interleaving on ? Both are enabled?


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Yeap! You are absolutely right. They are both dual channel, but when I set in Bios Unganged Mode (64-bits) to enabled I get the information from AIDA that it works in 128-bit Dual Channel mode.
> Is this more clear now?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more question.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you got your memory set to Channel Interleaving and Bank Interleaving on ? Both are enabled?


well... i think AIDA i sgiving you those readings because it is accessing BOTH sticks at the same time... and since each channel has a 64bit bandwidth.. both of them are 128bit... im just wild guessing here...

and for your other question.. i leave that in default... as they came... i have really NO idea of their functions haha... so i better dont mess with that...


----------



## Walking Dude

quick question.
finally putting the machine together........2 Radeon 6950 HD's in crossfire.
which we all know takes up 2 of the outslots(?)...whatever they are called. Since its not a wireless board, I need to install a wireless nic card. The lynksus wm9600n card. Since I have only two slots open, i tried to install this in each different slot. It doesn't fit/go in either slot. Am I doing something wrong? Not real happy about having to install this card so close to the graphics cards, but have no choice.

Any ideas, or tips that I should be doing?

TIA

wd


----------



## Walking Dude

never mind....the bottom card covers up the pci slot.Now what do I do for wireless? Run another router? Already have one in the house.


----------



## robbo2

Every time I try to install TurboV evo I get the 'does not support this board' message. Any ideas?


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walking Dude*
> 
> never mind....the bottom card covers up the pci slot.Now what do I do for wireless? Run another router? Already have one in the house.


do you want your mobo to have wireless? try a usb wi-fi thingy...


----------



## Walking Dude

thankx....guess thats what I will have to do.


----------



## Mistral

AMD CPU's have dual memory controllers, putting it simply in ganged mode the controllers work together as one 128bit controller this in theory is faster in single threaded applications but it is not always the case, if the Level 3 cache is full the controller has to flush a string from it causing latency. In unganged mode (recommended by AMD for hyperthreading) the controllers work as 2 64bit ones which means it's possible for them to read and write to memory at the same time. Ganged mode should show slightly better read bandwidth than unganged but less on write and copy. The difference in real world terms is negligible. Some AMD chips the 8 and 12 core Magny Cours G34 processors can only use unganged mode, it's possible the Bulldozer and Piledriver CPU's can only use unganged mode but you would need to contact AMD or study the CPU papers to find out. The subject is obviously much more complicated and technical this is just a general outline.


----------



## robbo2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robbo2*
> 
> Every time I try to install TurboV evo I get the 'does not support this board' message. Any ideas?


Nevermind! Seems I have to install that AI suite crap......ugh


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> well... i think AIDA i sgiving you those readings because it is accessing BOTH sticks at the same time... and since each channel has a 64bit bandwidth.. both of them are 128bit... im just wild guessing here...


OK! But take a look at this picture - the same MOBO, the same memory stick configuration with unganged mode enabled.


Quote:


> and for your other question.. i leave that in default... as they came... i have really NO idea of their functions haha... so i better dont mess with that...


*As for Interleaved Memory:*
Quote:


> Interleaved memories are the implementation of the concept of accessing more words in a single memory access cycle. This can be achieved by partitioning the memory e.g. into N separate memory modules. Thus, N accesses can be carried out to the memory simultaneously.


So it suppose in theory speed up access time to memory modules (I won't explain it because it's far beyond my knowledge







I think it works the same way for Channel Interleaving - Having 4 memory sticks grouped in 2 channels should make the access to one channel faster - I guess









I remember when I had *MSI 790 FX-GD70* board ppl from the forum advised to turn interleaving off because of stability issues.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> AMD CPU's have dual memory controllers, putting it simply in ganged mode the controllers work together as one 128bit controller this in theory is faster in single threaded applications but it is not always the case, if the Level 3 cache is full the controller has to flush a string from it causing latency. In unganged mode (recommended by AMD for hyperthreading) the controllers work as 2 64bit ones which means it's possible for them to read and write to memory at the same time. Ganged mode should show slightly better read bandwidth than unganged but less on write and copy. The difference in real world terms is negligible. Some AMD chips the 8 and 12 core Magny Cours G34 processors can only use unganged mode, it's possible the Bulldozer and Piledriver CPU's can only use unganged mode but you would need to contact AMD or study the CPU papers to find out. The subject is obviously much more complicated and technical this is just a general outline.


Well, I do know about that but take a look at the screenshot I posted. Even if I enable unganged mode in BIOS AIDA and even CPUz show that I work with ganged mode enabled. So, this is kind confusing for me because I just don't know which mode is actually on.








Have you noticed this also? When I look at CPUz's memory tab and DC mode field I see it's greyed out... strange :/


----------



## Mistral

You are comparing 2 different versions of AIDA64, ver.2.5 and 2.7 also 2 different CPU's a 1090T and an FX6100. I'm totally confused as to what you are getting at, the difference is the controller working as one 128bit (ganged) or two 64bit (unganged).


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> You are comparing 2 different versions of AIDA64, ver.2.5 and 2.7 also 2 different CPU's a 1090T and an FX6100. I'm totally confused as to what you are getting at, ganged and unganged are both dual channel, the difference is the controllers working as one(ganged) or two(unganged). Dual channel and single channel are memory bank arrangements and nothing to do with the memory controller itself.


OK. So, if you could explain it to me in plain words why I see sth like this:

*AIDA 64 Extreme 2.50* - *1090T Thuban*



*AIDA 64 Extreme 2.70* - *FX-6100*


I understand you perfectly and I know how *Dual Channel* mode works but I just want to know why there is no information in such software like AIDA or CPUz if I work with unganged mode on or off? It seems that I can't explain more clearly







Is it because of different AIDA and CPUz versions? They do not provide such information in the most recent versions?

And like you said:
Quote:


> the difference is the controllers working as one(ganged) or two(unganged).


So, I just want to know (see the information) in the software in what mode DRAM Controller actually works.








And... please







Don't be "totally confused"







It may be that it is completely my role, because of lack of knowledge and that's why I seek information on this forum.


----------



## Mistral

I get exactly the same it doesn't matter whether I enable or disable ganged mode in the BIOS it always shows as dual, as I said earlier I think it's because the Bulldozer/Piledriver chips IMC is basically the same as an Opteron/Magny cours etc and only works in dual channel mode.


----------



## pendrago

Allright. Now I get it. Sorry for this little *spamming* thread here. I just wanted to know if I only get that message in AIDA and CPUz.
We can close this thread now. Thanks for your input and help. Apprieciate it very much.


----------



## virtualelvis

Hey Guys..
I can't seem to get past 4390 mhz
I have a 8120
cm hyper 212 evo
latest bios
4 x 4 gb Gskill Sniper 1866
560 Ti 448 video

any help would be much appreciated.. thanks


----------



## Mistral

No problem it is a bit confusing, they must have changed the controller after the 6 core chips.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *virtualelvis*
> 
> Hey Guys..
> I can't seem to get past 4390 mhz
> I have a 8120
> cm hyper 212 evo
> latest bios
> 4 x 4 gb Gskill Sniper 1866
> 560 Ti 448 video
> any help would be much appreciated.. thanks


Not sure if this is relevant, but do you run your 4 sticks of ram at 1866MHz?

I vaguely remember reading somewhere that with all four slots filled, it was only able or maybe just best to run the memory at 1600MHz.

I don't know if this was merely related to a mobo or these chips in general.

Best of luck!


----------



## virtualelvis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Not sure if this is relevant, but do you run your 4 sticks of ram at 1866MHz?
> I vaguely remember reading somewhere that with all four slots filled, it was only able or maybe just best to run the memory at 1600MHz.
> I don't know if this was merely related to a mobo or these chips in general.
> Best of luck!


No I have all 4 running at 2000 .. I'll try backing them off to 1600


----------



## laurie

Hey guys. I have the R2.
Can anyone explain to me why whatever I set CPU Load Line to it just reverts back to regular.
Also can anyone point me in the direction of a guide to the benefits of adjusting the CPU/NB current Capability etc?
Thanks.


----------



## dcmprince

Add me, i need some help clocking this *****








runs 8150 up from 3.6ghz to 4.2 and runs fine, problem i have is getting the ram to run correctly without crashing









Verification
My board running 4.2ghz with poor ram speeds


----------



## virtualelvis

running fine now at.. 4575 thanks for your help


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *virtualelvis*
> 
> running fine now at.. 4575 thanks for your help


Glad it helped. Wasn't sure if it could be the problem, but like I said: I recalled reading something about that somewhere.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dcmprince*
> 
> Add me, i need some help clocking this *****
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> runs 8150 up from 3.6ghz to 4.2 and runs fine, problem i have is getting the ram to run correctly without crashing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Verification
> My board running 4.2ghz with poor ram speeds


I'm having trouble getting everything really stable when also overclocking my ram, just 2 sticks 1866MHz Corsair Vengeance, red.

What spee dare yours and which do you run them at?


----------



## Mistral

I'm currently running 16 G.Skill RipjawsZ 1866Mhz ram @ 1866Mhz it runs fine even with the CPU @ 5.0Ghz. Tomorrow I'm changing it for 16gig of TridentX 19200 (2400Mhz) ram.


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> I'm currently running 16 G.Skill RipjawsZ 1866Mhz ram @ 1866Mhz it runs fine even with the CPU @ 5.0Ghz. Tomorrow I'm changing it for 16gig of TridentX 19200 (2400Mhz) ram.


Hey! Mistral. Could you write down all your timings you set in BIOS to run those RAM sticks @ 1866 MHz ?
I am quite curious about it because when I had Thuban 1090 I could run mine with settings like these:
From the top of Memory Timings tab in BIOS:
*CAS 8-9-8-24 (then) 4-4-4-8 (then) WRT 12 - 110 ns (then) RCT 36 and then to the bottom 5-3-2-2 and finally 1T*









CPU/NB Frequency: 2925 MHz
CPU/NB Voltage: 1.3375
RAM speed: 1800 (but it has worked fine with 1854 MHz and the same settings like above)
RAM V 1.65

Ok! And I started to overclock (finally) my FX and here I came up to this:



The stress testing finished without any errors, so I could assume that it is stable.
Quite fine CPU Vcore voltage under load 1.26 V (1.281 V in BIOS).

But I was amazed when I started to overclock CPU/NB. 1.2437 V is enough to keep it at 2200 MHz but then I tried to change it to 2600 (which was a piece of cake for Thuban with 1.26 V or a little bit higher).
Here I set 1.26 V for the first time and quite strange things started to happen - It started to boot but restarted every time Windows logo started to appear.
I end up at 1.31 CPU/NB voltage and it seemed that it was even worse.
I came to the conclusion that overclocking FX and PD is a little bit different as for CPU/NB.
On the other hand HT Link set up at 2600 without even changing default voltage is very easy.

Have you got any suggestions what should I change to get it stable @ 2600 MHz ( at least)?

Or maybe my RAM Corsair 8GB Dual Channel DDR3 Memory Kit (CMX8GX3M2A2000C9) is a limiting factor ?
I stuck here and really don't know what to do. :/

I think I will look for another set of RAM and I was thinking about those G.Skill Ripjaws [ RipjawsZ ] F3-17000CL9Q-8GBZH (2Gx4) ?
Or any other (I will be satisfied to get 2000 MHz but with decent timings ;>) ? (sorry for this long post)


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Hey! Mistral. Could you write down all your timings you set in BIOS to run those RAM sticks @ 1866 MHz ?
> I am quite curious about it because when I had Thuban 1090 I could run mine with settings like these:
> From the top of Memory Timings tab in BIOS:
> *CAS 8-9-8-24 (then) 4-4-4-8 (then) WRT 12 - 110 ns (then) RCT 36 and then to the bottom 5-3-2-2 and finally 1T*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU/NB Frequency: 2925 MHz
> CPU/NB Voltage: 1.3375
> RAM speed: 1800 (but it has worked fine with 1854 MHz and the same settings like above)
> RAM V 1.65
> Ok! And I started to overclock (finally) my FX and here I came up to this:
> 
> The stress testing finished without any errors, so I could assume that it is stable.
> Quite fine CPU Vcore voltage under load 1.26 V (1.281 V in BIOS).
> But I was amazed when I started to overclock CPU/NB. 1.2437 V is enough to keep it at 2200 MHz but then I tried to change it to 2600 (which was a piece of cake for Thuban with 1.26 V or a little bit higher).
> Here I set 1.26 V for the first time and quite strange things started to happen - It started to boot but restarted every time Windows logo started to appear.
> I end up at 1.31 CPU/NB voltage and it seemed that it was even worse.
> I came to the conclusion that overclocking FX and PD is a little bit different as for CPU/NB.
> On the other hand HT Link set up at 2600 without even changing default voltage is very easy.
> Have you got any suggestions what should I change to get it stable @ 2600 MHz ( at least)?
> Or maybe my RAM Corsair 8GB Dual Channel DDR3 Memory Kit (CMX8GX3M2A2000C9) is a limiting factor ?
> I stuck here and really don't know what to do. :/
> I think I will look for another set of RAM and I was thinking about those G.Skill Ripjaws [ RipjawsZ ] F3-17000CL9Q-8GBZH (2Gx4) ?
> Or any other (I will be satisfied to get 2000 MHz but with decent timings ;>) ? (sorry for this long post)


I've used several kits of G.Skill RipjawsZ F3-14900CL9Q-16GBZL they all worked fine. The Kit I've just removed was running at 9-10-9-28-37-2T @ 1.55v, ( I can't give you the other settings I've just replaced the kit with a TridentX 2400Mhz 16gig kit but auto should be fine) . The CPU was @ 5.0Ghz CPU/NB and HT Link @ 2600Mhz ( I never run the HT Link higher than the CPU it can cause instability) The CPU/NB voltage was 1.4v with the LLC on regular. I'm currently running tests on the tridents so far it's @ 2218Mhz 9-11-11-31-2T @ 1.65v CPU/NB and HT are @ 2704Ghz. I'm using Win 8 Pro O/S. That kit should work fine I'm basically running the Tridents the same at the moment with slightly different timings.


----------



## markshim

Hi there.
I have corsair cmz8gx3m2a1600c8 ram can someone please tell me which settings I need to change in my bios to set the ram working as it should. Right now everything is set to auto and my timings are 9-9-9-24 1t

I haven't changed anything in the bios before so please can someone help me.

Do I just change the 9-9-9 to 8-8-8 ?


----------



## dcmprince

Im running 8gb DDr3 1866mhz GeiL EVOTWO .... even when i start the mobo without clocking it doesnt see it as 1866 but 1600... but when selecting the correct timings for the ram, when i over clock the processor it pushes the ram, so i need to reduce the clock timing on the membery or it wont boot... am i doing something wrong?


----------



## BonzaiTree

Hey gents, I know I really should apply/add myself to the owners club for this, I'll probably get around to it soon.

Anyways, I have an ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 with an AMD FX 4170 4.2Ghz Black Edition.

I was wondering if I should/have to increase the CPU/NB voltage or if I can just up the CPU Manual voltage?
This is in regards to the start of a basic overclock just using the multiplier and cpu voltage, going off of a Bulldozer Overclocking guide found here.)

I'm new to overclocking (obviously) and any help or suggestions are MORE than welcome!

Cheers!


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> I've used several kits of G.Skill RipjawsZ F3-14900CL9Q-16GBZL they all worked fine. The Kit I've just removed was running at 9-10-9-28-37-2T @ 1.55v, ( I can't give you the other settings I've just replaced the kit with a TridentX 2400Mhz 16gig kit but auto should be fine) . The CPU was @ 5.0Ghz CPU/NB and HT Link @ 2600Mhz ( I never run the HT Link higher than the CPU it can cause instability) The CPU/NB voltage was 1.4v with the LLC on regular.


So, the basic thing here to get CPU/NB to 2600 MHz is give CPU/NB even more voltage - like you wrote 1.4 V (regular? and what about CPU/NB current capability? Did you set it higher to let's say 110 % ? )
Quote:


> I'm currently running tests on the tridents so far it's @ 2218Mhz 9-11-11-31-2T @ 1.65v CPU/NB and HT are @ 2704Ghz. I'm using Win 8 Pro O/S. That kit should work fine I'm basically running the Tridents the same at the moment with slightly different timings.


I'll have to test your settings (maybe I will lower down CR from 1T to 2T. It shouldn't have much impact at performance - I guess).

Right! Thanks for your help







Now it's time to get through this "painfull" OC process








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markshim*
> 
> Hi there.
> I have corsair cmz8gx3m2a1600c8 ram can someone please tell me which settings I need to change in my bios to set the ram working as it should. Right now everything is set to auto and my timings are 9-9-9-24 1t
> 
> I haven't changed anything in the bios before so please can someone help me.
> 
> Do I just change the 9-9-9 to 8-8-8 ?


So, it is not so easy as it looks like, but you'll have to check this guide AMD FX Processors Unleashed | a Guide to Performance Tuning with AMD OverDrive and the new AMD FX Processors. Read it carefully and if you are not sure just ask a question here and I am sure someone will answer you. But first - read the guide. Very usefull in my opinion.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dcmprince*
> 
> Im running 8gb DDr3 1866mhz GeiL EVOTWO .... even when i start the mobo without clocking it doesnt see it as 1866 but 1600... but when selecting the correct timings for the ram, when i over clock the processor it pushes the ram, so i need to reduce the clock timing on the membery or it wont boot... am i doing something wrong?


Hmm. First of all if you want to overclock your ram without touching HTRefClock (or CPU Bus/Peg Frequency) you'll have to select proper divider in BIOS menu. It also depends what kind of CPU you have. For instance Deneb and Thuban CPU doesn't see a divider for 1866 in BIOS. It changes only when you have FX (Bulldozer / Piledriver) CPU.
Remember. Higher speed needs higher voltage. Tighter timings also. I just don't know what are your correct timings for your MemSticks. And if you start to overclock your processor using HTRefClck it is natural that you will have to rise your memory voltage (probably to 1.65 V - check your manual) and CPU/NB Voltage but that depends (as I said) on the kind of CPU you have (Deneb, Thuban or FX). That's all. Before you make any changes it's good to ask because you could damage your CPU or MOBO.


----------



## dixson01974

Hey guys and gals. I want to know if anyone here had any problems with there Sabertooth Mobo, because I have to RMA mine for a dead PCI-E slot.


----------



## bmgjet

When I got mine PCI-E 16X 2 wasnt working properly, Wiggling around the card inside it got it working at full speed.
Suspect some of the pins in it had grease or something on them preventing full contact with the pins.


----------



## dixson01974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> When I got mine PCI-E 16X 2 wasnt working properly, Wiggling around the card inside it got it working at full speed.
> Suspect some of the pins in it had grease or something on them preventing full contact with the pins.


Well it was working at x16 then x8 I thought it was the new card doing it then x0 It's dead Jim.


----------



## shampoo911

it is happening the same thing for me... but it is not dead yet...

the first pci-e slot has always worked @ 8x.... but it was until some days ago, that it started working at 16x and then 4x 1.1, and then 8x 1.1 randomly...

now it is working 8x 2.0


----------



## sunset1

if it is a electrical connection issue.. have you tried ( power unplugged ) some good contact cleaner spray?
i havent had any issues but my ssd went south and its down while i finsih two other projects.
im running 2 6950's

Edit: I have had motherboards come in with small pieces of ? in the pci slots. I usually take a magnifying glass and inspect them carefully and use a can of air to clean them out.. I damaged one years ago by attemping to use a small screwdriver to remove a piece of syrofoam ( bent one of the copper conectors on the inside of the slot.) So just air for me.. or contact cleaner. ( make sure can is level or you may spray that white crap on the slot with some brands of air)


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> if it is a electrical connection issue.. have you tried ( power unplugged ) some good contact cleaner spray?
> i havent had any issues but my ssd went south and its down while i finsih two other projects.
> im running 2 6950's
> Edit: I have had motherboards come in with small pieces of ? in the pci slots. I usually take a magnifying glass and inspect them carefully and use a can of air to clean them out.. I damaged one years ago by attemping to use a small screwdriver to remove a piece of syrofoam ( bent one of the copper conectors on the inside of the slot.) So just air for me.. or contact cleaner. ( make sure can is level or you may spray that white crap on the slot with some brands of air)


that contact cleaner you are talking about... is it liquid?? or just canned air? you may be right... i want my PC to be MF tip top (Pulp Fiction quote here haha)...


----------



## markshim

how do i change the 9-9-9-24 to 8-8-8-24 and the frequency to 1600mhz in the bios i haven`t done it b4.

i didn`t know i would have to change the settings in my bios to get my ram to run at the speeds it says it runs at.

does this mean i will have to stress test coz i don`t know how to use memtest, im a bit of a noob at all this.

everything is set to auto in my bios


----------



## dixson01974

Well the PCI-e slot was clean out by air when I change video cards and video card has not been touch sence.


----------



## sunset1

I only use contact cleaner when i have issues. Just in case there is a factory coating of some kind.
usually its dust built up that gets floated around then you reseat your card and it gets pushed into the small crevice of the pcie slot. Dont go digging in there as i did that one time. :<
id use air first and then if it still acts up you can clean the contacts on the card and the slot.
It used to be something like tetrochloromethane or something like that. But then regulations made the good stuff hard to get. I go to radio shack or amazon might have it. the little bitty cans that cost the most are usually the best stuff. but as long as its a contact cleaner that is quck dry and doesnt leave residue.

its hard to say what is causing the issue tho.. some crazy driver issue, power issue bad board or just dirt. I wish i had a crystal ball but i dont. ;>


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> I only use contact cleaner when i have issues. Just in case there is a factory coating of some kind.
> usually its dust built up that gets floated around then you reseat your card and it gets pushed into the small crevice of the pcie slot. Dont go digging in there as i did that one time. :<
> id use air first and then if it still acts up you can clean the contacts on the card and the slot.
> It used to be something like tetrochloromethane or something like that. But then regulations made the good stuff hard to get. I go to radio shack or amazon might have it. the little bitty cans that cost the most are usually the best stuff. but as long as its a contact cleaner that is quck dry and doesnt leave residue.
> its hard to say what is causing the issue tho.. some crazy driver issue, power issue bad board or just dirt. I wish i had a crystal ball but i dont. ;>


i wiggled it one day... and then it started functioning at full 16x 2.0... maybe it is a dirty contact or something... i will try to find something in my local store... i live in venezuela, so radio shack or amazon is not an option.. thanks a lot... i will update ASAP


----------



## badpilot

Hi Guys, I'm Roland from The Netherlands.

I just bought a sabertooth 990FX R2.0, amd I'm looking for a CPU to go with it.

I know there's a list on the ASUS website with compatible CPU's.

But wich CPU gives me bang for buck









I know that sometimes "lower classed" CPU's overclock better than "higher classed" CPU's.

Do I really need a FX 8350 or can I buy a FX 8120 BE and OC this baby









PC is mainly used for mail, internet, and BF3 (and related games)

Thx for any info on this


----------



## Walking Dude

any one have a REAL contact number for tech support for asus? I called a dozen times, pressed #2 and waited. Then the female recorded voice told me to select a valad option!!!!!

Bout ready to kick asus to the curb. NO CUSTOMER SUPPORT!!!!!!!


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badpilot*
> 
> Hi Guys, I'm Roland from The Netherlands.
> I just bought a sabertooth 990FX R2.0, amd I'm looking for a CPU to go with it.
> I know there's a list on the ASUS website with compatible CPU's.
> But wich CPU gives me bang for buck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that sometimes "lower classed" CPU's overclock better than "higher classed" CPU's.
> Do I really need a FX 8350 or can I buy a FX 8120 BE and OC this baby
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PC is mainly used for mail, internet, and BF3 (and related games)
> Thx for any info on this


Hey Roland,

Well,you could opt for an 8-core one, but seeing your use (mail, the net, games) why not go for a 4 or 6 core?
The Bulldozer 4170 kicks ass and is dirt cheap. The newer Piledriver 4300 and 6300 could also be good choices.

Groeten uit Heerenveen!

[Edit] I own a 4170, @ 4.8GHz and have a single HD7870.
Skyrim, a cpu intensive game, I think, is bottlenecked by my gpu, not the cpu.


----------



## badpilot

Hi Raephen, (hee hallo)

I just sold my Phenom II X4 965 BE, running on 3.8 Mhz. It was always maxed out at 100% playing BF3 on High settings, no AA, no Vsync.

I was hoping to gain some more performance with a new CPU.

I think a 6 core would be sufficient, but isn't an 8-core better> (more futureproof)

I think i'm going to choose between:

FX6200 BE 6 core 3.8 Ghz (120 euro)

or the

FX8120 BE 8 core 3.1 Ghz (138 euro)

Wich one is the "best" choice?

(groeten uit Kerkrade, Zuid-Limburg







)


----------



## BonzaiTree

I have a 4170 mildly overclocked to 4.6Ghz to keep voltage low and thermals good.

I can run most games on the highest settings and still get good frame rates. Granted, I don't have BF3, but everything I've run has been great.

And that's with only a GTX 560


----------



## Raephen

Well, Roland, my choice would be the 6200, then, actually for the same reason why I'm going to hang on to my 4170 for a bit longer and wait to see whta the next generation, Steamroller, brings to the table.

But to be fair, if I had to choose, I'd choose neither, but pick up a FX 6300. That's a new Piledriver, and available for roughly in bteween the price of the two Bulldozer chips you mentioned (http://nl.hardware.info/productinfo/164239/amd-fx-6300 ; bij Azerty voor iets van € 128).

Piledriver, from what I've read is a very good improvement on Bulldozer, so again: if I had to choose an am3+ chip today, it'd be the 6300.

Best of luck!

(Kirchrah... daar ben ik wel een paar keer geweest







)


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> I have a 4170 mildly overclocked to 4.6Ghz to keep voltage low and thermals good.
> I can run most games on the highest settings and still get good frame rates. Granted, I don't have BF3, but everything I've run has been great.
> And that's with only a GTX 560


What is your Vcore?

for 4,8, with my settings, it shifts up and down between 1,452 V and 1.464 V, with CnQ enabled.


----------



## Krusher33

I don't see any reason to get a Bulldozer if the Vishera's are only few dollars more.


----------



## badpilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Well, Roland, my choice would be the 6200, then, actually for the same reason why I'm going to hang on to my 4170 for a bit longer and wait to see whta the next generation, Steamroller, brings to the table.
> But to be fair, if I had to choose, I'd choose neither, but pick up a FX 6300. That's a new Piledriver, and available for roughly in bteween the price of the two Bulldozer chips you mentioned (http://nl.hardware.info/productinfo/164239/amd-fx-6300 ; bij Azerty voor iets van € 128).
> Piledriver, from what I've read is a very good improvement on Bulldozer, so again: if I had to choose an am3+ chip today, it'd be the 6300.
> Best of luck!
> (Kirchrah... daar ben ik wel een paar keer geweest
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


last questions on this:

* Is choosing for TDP of 95 Watt instead of 125 Watt better, because there's more room for overclocking because of heat?

* Is this a BE? (Because it says "boxed" on tweakers.net.)


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badpilot*
> 
> last questions on this:
> * Is choosing for TDP of 95 Watt instead of 125 Watt better, because there's more room for overclocking because of heat?
> * Is this a BE? (Because it says "boxed" on tweakers.net.)


* 1st. : as far as I know, TDP makes no difference for overclocking. It's for - again: for as far as I know - more a kind of idea of max heat out-put (on stock settings) which decides which stock cooler comes with it.

If you're going to clock the [email protected] out of the chip: after-market cooler. HR-02 Macho is a relatively cheap and decent one, lot's of FX owner use the CM 212 EVO, or if you have the cash: a Noctua cooler is one of the better air-cooling brands.

Or you could go for an all-in-one closed waterloop like the Corsair H50/80/100 or an Antec H2O 620/920. But for those prices, a Noctua cooler might be just as good but slightly more quiet.

Or do like me, and build your own custom water loop. But those don't come cheap.

* Secondly, ALL current FX chips have unlocked multipliers (m.a.w.: BE) The boxed refers to the fact it comes in a box with a stock cooler. You can also see processors listed with 'tray'. I've always had boxed chips, so I'm not sure about what you get with it. I think just the chip.

[Edit]
Derp! You own a H50, so you'd be good for a nice speed bump


----------



## bmgjet

Tray is just the sticker and chip in the little plastic thing that comes in the tin.
IMO you might as well just get the 8350. Its not that expensive and the way things are going multi-threaded it will be better for the future.

You could get a 8320 but they take more voltage and run hotter to get the same clocks for not much savings in money.


----------



## sunset1

@walkin dude right now because of the black friday craze everyone and their brother is tieing up the phone lines.. you may get faster support if you can send them a email ( you then have a record) or web chat ( most sites you can save the message. ) then try in a day or so when things slow down a bit. Just an idea. I also try to call before the youngins get off school. ;>
Sunset1

P.S. sorry i havent had to call so im not sure.. If there is something we can help with please ask. Ill try to remember to check in.. more often.

@badpilot the market changes so fast what was the best chip for the price a few months ago when i researched has changed drasticly. I usually go ot a few review sites and take what they say with a grain of salt because at least in the states the sales have been crazy.

anyway here is a little reasing info ...
toms gaming chips for november..
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-cpu-review-overclock,3106.html

as far as cooling the grass is always greener..
three camps or goups like the above poster said..
air coolers large heavy do good to great job of cooling and in my experience louc. Some are better than others. However the above poster picked a few nice ones. ( sorry i can read the above posts right now)

the clc coolers or all in one.. I can only state what i have used on my cpu. 8120 and i use the thremaltake water 2.0 extreme.. quiet and very effective. I did get mine when they first came out but on sale you might find a bargin..

Full water. I havent done this.. but i i did research it and people that do it right are happy.

a bunch of guys are also cooling their gpus ( video card ) with a cheaper clc. (the gpu mod or the red mod.

what works for us in the states because of cost differences may not be the best deal for you so i highly suggest the obove poster due to the fact that he knows your area.

Good luck.
nice board. Oh and get a nice well regulated power supply for the fx chips.. especially the 8000 series. It will save you headaches in the long run.

Sunset1

Edit : sorry Raephen.. ( the above poster) my ipad closes the previous posts. )


----------



## badpilot

Thx guys.

Helped me a lot









Seeing the Toms hardware chart, I need to get up to a FX-8320, or a FX-6300, to actually beat my X4 965 BE









EDIT:

Decided to go for a FX-6300

I think an FX-8320 or a 8350 is a bit overkill for me.


----------



## BonzaiTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> What is your Vcore?
> for 4,8, with my settings, it shifts up and down between 1,452 V and 1.464 V, with CnQ enabled.


I forget, around 1.368 V I think, don't feel like checking BIOS. Voltage does increase under load, to just under 1.4. I have LLC maxed. CnQ disabled.

I had it up to 4.8 stable, but I didn't want to leave the voltage above 1.4 idle. But if my temps are fine (which they are--in the high 40's under full load) is it okay to have a voltage between 1.4 and 1.45?
I want the chip to last.

Here's my CPU-Z again

http://valid.canardpc.com/2596853


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badpilot*
> 
> Thx guys.
> 
> Helped me a lot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing the Toms hardware chart, I need to get up to a FX-8320, or a FX-6300, to actually beat my X4 965 BE


I myself is not too impressed with the 8320. Normally it's about $30 less than 8350? The loss of speed between the 2 is not worth that in opinion. So if you got the money, go for the 8350 so you won't have buyer's remorse. Otherwise if you want to save money, go 6300 and you'll be happy there too.

I had considered the 8320 myself from time to time but in the end I realize that the 8350 can get better speeds at much better voltage and THAT turned me away.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *badpilot*
> 
> Thx guys.
> 
> Helped me a lot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing the Toms hardware chart, I need to get up to a FX-8320, or a FX-6300, to actually beat my X4 965 BE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I myself is not too impressed with the 8320. Normally it's about $30 less than 8350? The loss of speed between the 2 is not worth that in opinion. So if you got the money, go for the 8350 so you won't have buyer's remorse. Otherwise if you want to save money, go 6300 and you'll be happy there too.
> 
> I had considered the 8320 myself from time to time but in the end I realize that the 8350 can get better speeds at much better voltage and THAT turned me away.
Click to expand...

I went with the 8320 originally thinking it would just be a little slower and maybe not clock quite as well but it was way worse. definitely worth the extra $ to get 8350. Now i am stuck with a 8320 that i am trying to sell


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> I went with the 8320 originally thinking it would just be a little slower and maybe not clock quite as well but it was way worse. definitely worth the extra $ to get 8350. Now i am stuck with a 8320 that i am trying to sell


Idle(2900 MHz) my chip runs on 1,200V.

I draw the line at 1,5 V, though thermal wise my wc-loop would be able to handle it.

I prefer to stay close to 1,45 V Max. The chips with proper cooling can handle it.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> I forget, around 1.368 V I think, don't feel like checking BIOS. Voltage does increase under load, to just under 1.4. I have LLC maxed. CnQ disabled.
> I had it up to 4.8 stable, but I didn't want to leave the voltage above 1.4 idle. But if my temps are fine (which they are--in the high 40's under full load) is it okay to have a voltage between 1.4 and 1.45?
> I want the chip to last.
> Here's my CPU-Z again
> http://valid.canardpc.com/2596853


Idle(2900 MHz) my chip runs on 1,200V.

I draw the line at 1,5 V, though thermal wise my wc-loop would be able to handle it.

I prefer to stay close to 1,45 V Max. The chips with proper cooling can handle it.


----------



## Chrisguz

I'm looking at upgrading my current MB to the Sabertooth R2, however, I need to know what kind of RAM will work. I've looked at the QVL and there are very few choices for 8g sticks. The specs on the board shows 32g is supported however the QVL only shows an 8x4 configuration for 32g at 1600...its obvious that this will not work because there are not 8 DIMM slots on the board. The QVL shows many options for 16g configurations at 4x4 but I'd rather get a 2x8 set now and be able to go to 32g later if I need to. Any help would be appreciated...I'd like to place my order before the end of the week. I currently run 8g (4x2 @ 1600) on a M4A87TD EVO with an 1100T.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badpilot*
> 
> Thx guys.
> Helped me a lot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing the Toms hardware chart, I need to get up to a FX-8320, or a FX-6300, to actually beat my X4 965 BE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> Decided to go for a FX-6300
> I think an FX-8320 or a 8350 is a bit overkill for me.


I'm not sure about the comparison in the chart you mention, but most of that kind of comparison's are at stock speed/settings.

While the Phenom II I owned before my Bulldozer might have been better (slightly... mostly in single threaded apps), once overclocked - both Phenom,II to 3,8, and my 4170, to 4,8 - the extra bandwith on the PD/BD begins to show.


----------



## badpilot

yeah, oc 'ing the FX-6300 will beat my Phenom X4 965 running at 3.8 Mhz, I hope









We'll see, we'll see


----------



## THC Butterz

ok, so quick question if anyone knows.
I love my sabertooth, simply its awesome, and now i have acedntly fallen in love with windows 8, in between linux ventures, but my sabertooth r1 doesn't have the direct bios features for windows 8 quick booting and is shy a feature or two from the R2, so i'm pondering a upgrade, especially since i'm not worried about cor unlocking running a 1090t, (bulldozers cores are just not appealing yet) so here's my question,
If I send in my R1 on warranty, does anyone know if there is a chance of getting a R2 back from asus, or a way to exchange it for a few extra bucks??


----------



## Krusher33

Someone tried for one of his clients already and they wouldn't do it.


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## Infidelious

Just finished my build:

Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0
AMD FX-8150
Azza Solano 1000
G.SKILL Ripjaws Z 32GB
OCZ Vertex II SSD
MSI Radeon HD 6570
Corsair H60 Water Cooler


----------



## Solders18

i just built a system for a friend and fired it up. the bios is acting funny. its not scaled to the screen and the only part that shows up is where the mouse is. i installed windows just fine and then updated the bios but it is doing the same thing. This is the R2 version with an 8350 installed. Any ideas on how to fix it or if it has to be RMA'd would be great


----------



## jzohng

hey guys i need some help. im still buying computer parts so i havent used my asus sabertooth 990fx motherboard yet. can you guys give me some links to a dvd/cd combo optical drive that will run in windows 7 64bit with no problems please? i also need it to do a system builder install of windows 7 64bit. im totally building my new computer from scratch.

also i have the original sabertooth 990fx not the r2.0. with that being said what bios do i want for my motherboard? i see you guys talking about the different bios but i dont know which one i should get. thanks.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jzohng*
> 
> hey guys i need some help. im still buying computer parts so i havent used my asus sabertooth 990fx motherboard yet. can you guys give me some links to a dvd/cd combo optical drive that will run in windows 7 64bit with no problems please? i also need it to do a system builder install of windows 7 64bit. im totally building my new computer from scratch.
> 
> also i have the original sabertooth 990fx not the r2.0. with that being said what bios do i want for my motherboard? i see you guys talking about the different bios but i dont know which one i should get. thanks.


Really any DVD burner will run a windows DVD. here is one though:
DVD Burner

The latest bios for the R1 board is 1604 located here:
1604 bios


----------



## jzohng

thank you. about the dvd/cd combo optical drive what im concerned about is any compatability issues with windows 7 64bit. ive read a lot of reviews from people who have bought certain ones that dont work correctly or wont even register in windows 7 64bit. im not really concerned about my windows 7 64bit install disk but im concerned about the drive itself not being compatible.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jzohng*
> 
> thank you. about the dvd/cd combo optical drive what im concerned about is any compatability issues with windows 7 64bit. ive read a lot of reviews from people who have bought certain ones that dont work correctly or wont even register in windows 7 64bit. im not really concerned about my windows 7 64bit install disk but im concerned about the drive itself not being compatible.


I can't really speak from ALOT of experience but have used about 5 LG bluray or DVD drives in my builds and have never had problem with them


----------



## jzohng

ok thankies. and one more thing. on the asus bios link you gave me am i going to want to do all the updates there? or just the one that says bios?


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jzohng*
> 
> ok thankies. and one more thing. on the asus bios link you gave me am i going to want to do all the updates there? or just the one that says bios?


for a new build you are going to need the latest version of most of them like chipset, sata, lan, asus suite.. thats all i can think of off the top of my head


----------



## jzohng

ok thanks again.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jzohng*
> 
> ok thanks again.


Good luck with the new build and report back with pictures, we loooove pictures


----------



## laurie

Hey. Just been playing Far Cry 3 and my Vcore-1 went over 80c and threw up a warning. Is this a bit too hot?
Also which area is this? The top of the VRMs?


----------



## shampoo911

your cpu is like in a "Finish Him" state (insert mortal kombat fatality song and voice here)

vcore is the cpu voltage...

and yes... far cry 3 is DEMANDING... A LOT


----------



## laurie

Vcore isn't the CPU Voltage or temperature. There are Vcore-1 and Vcore-2 . They refer to two sections of the VRMs. If that were my CPU it would have shut off. My CPU core was at about 58c which is fine.


----------



## laurie

I've shoved an 80mm fan right on the VRMs. Just zip tied it to the exhaust fan for now. Temps down from 80+ to around 58c. Much better.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laurie*
> 
> Vcore isn't the CPU Voltage or temperature. There are Vcore-1 and Vcore-2 . They refer to two sections of the VRMs. If that were my CPU it would have shut off. My CPU core was at about 58c which is fine.


you are right... my bad... i made some research... vcore 1 and 2... i think they are vrm's and northbridge...


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *laurie*
> 
> Vcore isn't the CPU Voltage or temperature. There are Vcore-1 and Vcore-2 . They refer to two sections of the VRMs. If that were my CPU it would have shut off. My CPU core was at about 58c which is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> you are right... my bad... i made some research... vcore 1 and 2... i think they are vrm's and northbridge...
Click to expand...

I believe there are 2 core sensors one on the top and one the bottom. Then the NB has its own temp sensor


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> I believe there are 2 core sensors one on the top and one the bottom. Then the NB has its own temp sensor


still, she had her vcore 1 temp on 80ºC... something's not quite right... if i had to guess, the same temp that reads her 80ºC, mine reads 40ºC TOPS.. without any extra fan


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> still, she had her vcore 1 temp on 80ºC... something's not quite right... if i had to guess, the same temp that reads her 80ºC, mine reads 40ºC TOPS.. without any extra fan


Mine gets to low 60's but 80 is too hot. Makes me think the heat sink isn't seated right


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> Mine gets to low 60's but 80 is too hot. Makes me think the heat sink isn't seated right


could be... or some REALLY bad airflow...


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> could be... or some REALLY bad airflow...


With an 80 mm fan blowing on it though it should be cooler than 58. Might be beneficial to take off the vrm heat sink and reapply thermal paste. See if that helps, if not, then reduce the amount of juice running through it


----------



## laurie

Thanks guys. Yeah I will have a look at removing the heatsinks. I will have a search and see if anyone else has pulled them off. Sounds like 80c is far too hot if you are both getting between 40-60.
I'm talking full Far Cry 3 load not idle. Current idle is 25c

I'm going to need to find a long thermal pad!

Not my picture BTW.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laurie*
> 
> Thanks guys. Yeah I will have a look at removing the heatsinks. I will have a search and see if anyone else has pulled them off. Sounds like 80c is far too hot if you are both getting between 40-60.
> I'm talking full Far Cry 3 load not idle. Current idle is 25c
> 
> I'm going to need to find a long thermal pad!
> 
> Not my picture BTW.


i am pretty sure someone replaced the thermal material under the vrms earlier and just used arctic silver 5. you might page back a few a see.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laurie*
> 
> Thanks guys. Yeah I will have a look at removing the heatsinks. I will have a search and see if anyone else has pulled them off. Sounds like 80c is far too hot if you are both getting between 40-60.
> I'm talking full Far Cry 3 load not idle. Current idle is 25c
> I'm going to need to find a long thermal pad!
> Not my picture BTW.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> i am pretty sure someone replaced the thermal material under the vrms earlier and just used arctic silver 5. you might page back a few a see.


as i remembered... using thermal flux is better than thermal paste in this cases... i believe arctic cooling has some solution for it.... and yes...

laurie, are you using a custom loop? i was checking your gallery, and i saw an old rig.. are you using that same loop? why not ordering a northbridge block?


----------



## Mega Man

yea that was my question. i have read alot of people have had to add fans because of water loops, the vrms are not getting enough airflow . it isnt that uncommon. from what i have read. i second the "there are better materials to use that AS5 on these"

not from personal experiance but i have read some horror stories of *stuff* went wrong.


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laurie*
> 
> I've shoved an 80mm fan right on the VRMs. Just zip tied it to the exhaust fan for now. Temps down from 80+ to around 58c. Much better.


Hey laurie, do you have an OEM CPU heatsink fan, after market fan, or liquid cooling?

The vrm heatsink is cooled by fan airflow, if you have some aftermarket fan or liquid that do not put any airflow to the vrm heatsink then it is more likely to get hotter, straining it by load on the CPU is exactly what will do this, especially if you overclock. There have been others here who have added fans to cool the vrm heatsink for just this type of issue. Search this thread for ideas on how to cool them. I think zip ties and small fans were in the list of fixes.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea that was my question. i have read alot of people have had to add fans because of water loops, the vrms are not getting enough airflow . it isnt that uncommon. from what i have read. i second the "there are better materials to use that AS5 on these"
> 
> not from personal experiance but i have read some horror stories of *stuff* went wrong.


i just wasn't sure what was used. my bad


----------



## shampoo911

and i was thinking of buying a raystorm for christmas... *sigh* guess i will stick to my noctua...


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> and i was thinking of buying a raystorm for christmas... *sigh* guess i will stick to my noctua...


i have been eyeballin a raystorm kit as well. fairly cheap start to a full watercooling system


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> i have been eyeballin a raystorm kit as well. fairly cheap start to a full watercooling system


indeed... pretty cheap to begin with.. however, if my vrm's are going to toast, then i'll stay put..


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> i have been eyeballin a raystorm kit as well. fairly cheap start to a full watercooling system
> 
> 
> 
> indeed... pretty cheap to begin with.. however, if my vrm's are going to toast, then i'll stay put..
Click to expand...

I have H100 now and the VRM's reach low 60's under heavy overclocking


----------



## laurie

Hey. I don't have any of the stuff from the photos I'm afraid. That system was from years ago. It's all air now.

However; I just ran a few things again to be sure. I had AI suite record all my temps whilst playing half an hour of Far Cry 3. And this was with the 80mm fan on the VRM turned off.
The VCORE-1 temp leveled out at 59c. Which sounds much more reasonable. And My cpu Maxed out at 52. My top GPU is still hitting the high 70s but that's another issue.
I'm thinking I could have had a sensor problem.

Earlier I had a warning that the VCORE-1 had gone over 80 but I now can't get it to get any hotter than 59c. I will keep an eye on it but I think it will likely be OK now.
Thanks for your replies. +rep as always.



Oh and the zip ties and fan were me.
I'm running an EVO 212 (Is that what it's called? Coolermaster CPU cooler, everything else is as the signature system)


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laurie*
> 
> Hey. I don't have any of the stuff from the photos I'm afraid. That system was from years ago. It's all air now.
> However; I just ran a few things again to be sure. I had AI suite record all my temps whilst playing half an hour of Far Cry 3. And this was with the 80mm fan on the VRM turned off.
> The VCORE-1 temp leveled out at 59c. Which sounds much more reasonable. And My cpu Maxed out at 52. My top GPU is still hitting the high 70s but that's another issue.
> I'm thinking I could have had a sensor problem.
> Earlier I had a warning that the VCORE-1 had gone over 80 but I now can't get it to get any hotter than 59c. I will keep an eye on it but I think it will likely be OK now.
> Thanks for your replies. +rep as always.
> 
> Oh and the zip ties and fan were me.
> I'm running an EVO 212 (Is that what it's called? Coolermaster CPU cooler, everything else is as the signature system)


your gpu hitting 70ºC... just normal.... it is right below the NB... so it gets hotter.. so relax...

still... try loading your case with 120mm fans.. i have 7 on mine... with a possitive pressure setting (heat going out through 3 exhaust fans, cold air through 4 intake)


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> and i was thinking of buying a raystorm for christmas... *sigh* guess i will stick to my noctua...


Aye, the Raystorm is a good block. I use one in my own custom loop and it does the job nicely.

True, switching to water does ruin the airflow in the cpu / vrm/ nb area, but that is easily remedied by just adding one or two silent fans.

I've used two 60mm, attached to a bit of black plastic with sturdy double sided tape. The strip of sturdy plastic I then attached to the VRM heatsink using, again, double sided tape.

I've had someone asking me if that was a good idea - doesn't it get to hot for the tape? - but in my experience the heatsink doesn't even heat up that much.

Stress your system for a bit and then touch the heatsink (keeping ESD in mind, so ground / discharge yourself first). The heatsink felt barely warmer than my fingers.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Aye, the Raystorm is a good block. I use one in my own custom loop and it does the job nicely.
> True, switching to water does ruin the airflow in the cpu / vrm/ nb area, but that is easily remedied by just adding one or two silent fans.
> I've used two 60mm, attached to a bit of black plastic with sturdy double sided tape. The strip of sturdy plastic I then attached to the VRM heatsink using, again, double sided tape.
> I've had someone asking me if that was a good idea - doesn't it get to hot for the tape? - but in my experience the heatsink doesn't even heat up that much.
> Stress your system for a bit and then touch the heatsink (keeping ESD in mind, so ground / discharge yourself first). The heatsink felt barely warmer than my fingers.


i have a pretty good airflow (i guess)... it's always cool in my room.. like, 19ºC with a/c... or even less.... i like to keep this beast pretty cold.. and that was my fear of having a custom loop...


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> i have a pretty good airflow (i guess)... it's always cool in my room.. like, 19ºC with a/c... or even less.... i like to keep this beast pretty cold.. and that was my fear of having a custom loop...


With a coupleof silent and cheap 60mm fan over the VRM / NB area - like the XR2 by Noiseblocker - you have nothing to owrry about.

Your current cooler NH-D14, from what I hear, is one of the best air coolers around, so I guess it's all up to the tweaker in you.

Do you need watercooling for your cpu? With the beast you have, probably no. But do you feel like messing arroumd with hardware and maybe getting even better results? Then yes, watercooling is for you.

Though, I have to say, those kits are nice and for a good price, but if you want the job done properly, assemble your own. Do some reading up on the basics etc.

My loop - my first loop - is completely my own setup. A bit pricier, but then I have two rads (one outside on the back, a thick 120mm Phobya G-changer, and a XSPC EX-240 in top) and because of the extra surface area, my fans don't have to run thatfast to cool properly (sub 1000 rpm)

The two small fans on the VRM heatsink keep the Vcore readouts about the same as my CPU socket temp, which are the top 3 temperatures on my Bulldozer's sensors.


----------



## Mistral

I'm on a water loop for the CPU, my temps under heavy load are CPU @4.8Ghz 32c, NB 28c, VRM 34c, Board 25c, the case is a HAF X if you are getting temps 60c plus you have a problem.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> I'm on a water loop for the CPU, my temps under heavy load are CPU @4.8Ghz 32c, NB 28c, VRM 34c, Board 25c, the case is a HAF X if you are getting temps 60c plus you have a problem.


Good god, man, those temperatures are under heavy load?

Very, Very nice temperatures!


----------



## Mistral

The case has a 1x230mm front intake, 1x200mm side intake, 2x200mm top exhaust and 1x140mm rear exhaust, there is also a Coolermaster 80mm variable speed CPU fan bolted to the water block bracket cooling the the VRM and NB it is running at 2700rpms but it will go to 4750rpms but so far I haven't needed to run it any higher than the low speed.


----------



## shampoo911

so i was wondering... can this mobo, run up to 16gb of 2133mhz ram?? im planning on buying a second 8gb kit...


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> so i was wondering... can this mobo, run up to 16gb of 2133mhz ram?? im planning on buying a second 8gb kit...


yes, the max is 32


----------



## shampoo911

but with the same timings? *2133mhz 9-11-10-24 1T*


----------



## sunset1

@lauri seems i forgot to refresh and i was late to the party. oh well
when i added full heatsinks from swiftech for my 6950's it came with a special ceramic paste. I used artic mx-4 on it as i had to remount it many times to do my mod. I guess it depends on the type of mounting hardware they used on the mb vrm heatsinks. They have obvioulsy made room for the thicker pads. I dont really like to advise on using other than what came on it.. However in my case I would use mx4 if it seats well. Not conductive non capacitive. what i do and what i suggest to others may be two different things. I usually suggest the safest route.

@shampoo911 im running 4x4 or 16 gigs of mushkin redline. Im not sure its the best overclocker tho.. i let it auto set after messing with it for a while at 2000. not sure of the settings.
maybe someone else can chime in that has a better overclock. Im running a clc on my cpu and on the video cards in a haf 22 but the fans dont spin very fast .. its quiet. but i also want to put one or two fans on my vrms.


----------



## laurie

Thanks for the post Sunset.
Good to hear that you don't have to use thermal pads to get contact.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> The case has a 1x230mm front intake, 1x200mm side intake, 2x200mm top exhaust and 1x140mm rear exhaust, there is also a Coolermaster 80mm variable speed CPU fan bolted to the water block bracket cooling the the VRM and NB it is running at 2700rpms but it will go to 4750rpms but so far I haven't needed to run it any higher than the low speed.


That sounds like very decent airflow.

My humble Fractal Design Arc midi doesn't have the room for fans bigger than 140mm ones (well, not entirely true: on the side panel it has room for an 180mm one, but I replaced that panel by a simple piece of clear acryllic with some magnets stuck 'round the edge so I can admire my saberkitten







)

But still: three Bitfenix spectre fans (140mm; 2 front, 1 bottom) for intake and three on my radiators blowing out (rear and top) + the fans on the VRM don't give me temps like yours, but more than good enough, 50 C max for socket and Vcore-1 is something I'm happy about with a 4170 clocked to 4,8 GHz.

But still,... I envy your temperatures







lol!

PS - the 60mm fans on the VRM heatsink spin at 1400ish, max and 1100ish when all is well (cool), the rest of my fans have yet to break the 1000 rpm barrier.. That might account for some of the differences


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> The case has a 1x230mm front intake, 1x200mm side intake, 2x200mm top exhaust and 1x140mm rear exhaust, there is also a Coolermaster 80mm variable speed CPU fan bolted to the water block bracket cooling the the VRM and NB it is running at 2700rpms but it will go to 4750rpms but so far I haven't needed to run it any higher than the low speed.
> 
> 
> 
> That sounds like very decent airflow.
> 
> My humble Fractal Design Arc midi doesn't have the room for fans bigger than 140mm ones (well, not entirely true: on the side panel it has room for an 180mm one, but I replaced that panel by a simple piece of clear acryllic with some magnets stuck 'round the edge so I can admire my saberkitten
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> But still: three Bitfenix spectre fans (140mm; 2 front, 1 bottom) for intake and three on my radiators blowing out (rear and top) + the fans on the VRM don't give me temps like yours, but more than good enough, 50 C max for socket and Vcore-1 is something I'm happy about with a 4170 clocked to 4,8 GHz.
> 
> But still,... I envy your temperatures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol!
> 
> PS - the 60mm fans on the VRM heatsink spin at 1400ish, max and 1100ish when all is well (cool), the rest of my fans have yet to break the 1000 rpm barrier.. That might account for some of the differences
Click to expand...

One thing i *HATE* about the Corsair Graphite is the terrible airflow. i like having the acrylic side because it looks cleaner and i like to look at my parts but the temps are way too high because of airflow. with the mesh and 4x120 fans i will see a 10 degree drop on almost every component.


----------



## robbo2

I'm officially done with this board. In terms of overclocking, this board is very average. Of all the boards I have used with my 955 and 1090T this one is by far the worst when it comes to NB and ram clocking. Considering this board came with a high end price tag I am very disappointed.

Maybe it's better for the 8 core chips? I don't know. I refuse to buy one to test


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> One thing i *HATE* about the Corsair Graphite is the terrible airflow. i like having the acrylic side because it looks cleaner and i like to look at my parts but the temps are way too high because of airflow. with the mesh and 4x120 fans i will see a 10 degree drop on almost every component.


So true, about the 4 fans in the side mesh. I owned a 600T White edition before my Arc Midi and yeah: I know the 10C drop in temp you talk about.

But to be fair: it certainly isn't a bad case, and a delight to work with if you tweak arround a lot with components.

The front 200mm fan did resonate against the front mesh so I made some DIY standoffs for it. It meant I had to remove the front drive racks and place one on the bottom, but that setup is good for airflow.

If you want some extra flow and have the room in your 5.25" bay area (say... the three botton bays?) you could use that space to place an extra 120mm fan...


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> So true, about the 4 fans in the side mesh. I owned a 600T White edition before my Arc Midi and yeah: I know the 10C drop in temp you talk about.
> 
> But to be fair: it certainly isn't a bad case, and a delight to work with if you tweak arround a lot with components.
> 
> The front 200mm fan did resonate against the front mesh so I made some DIY standoffs for it. It meant I had to remove the front drive racks and place one on the bottom, but that setup is good for airflow.
> 
> If you want some extra flow and have the room in your 5.25" bay area (say... the three botton bays?) you could use that space to place an extra 120mm fan...


its amazing the drop in temps on the GPU's and VRM's. Other than the airflow i absolutely love the case, i have people compliment the looks all the time. I just wish there was more room on the top/ VRM heatsink and memory were lower for push/pull.

I have seen the 120 in the drive bay before but never thought about putting it in mine...







that would run air right across memory cpu and vrm


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> its amazing the drop in temps on the GPU's and VRM's. Other than the airflow i absolutely love the case, i have people compliment the looks all the time. I just wish there was more room on the top/ VRM heatsink and memory were lower for push/pull.
> I have seen the 120 in the drive bay before but never thought about putting it in mine...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that would run air right across memory cpu and vrm


Aye, a bit. And if you want to cool your GPU better: Arctic Cooling Accelero Twin Turbo II.

I have watercooling, and while my HD7870 is a cool running mofo with it's stock fans, my next upgrade won't be a waterblock for my GPU, but the afore mentioned after-market cooler.

My Saberkitten can only be happy with one less(er) source of heat, so I guess yours would think the same









But, as mentioned numerous times before, the main reason for VRM's heating up more when using a loop or a clc like yours to cool the cpu is the lesser airflow over the heatsink. And that problem is easily remedied by some small, inexspensive fans modded on / over the area.

If you'd like, I can take a snap-shot of my solution for you tomorrow for more inspiration.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Aye, a bit. And if you want to cool your GPU better: Arctic Cooling Accelero Twin Turbo II.
> 
> I have watercooling, and while my HD7870 is a cool running mofo with it's stock fans, my next upgrade won't be a waterblock for my GPU, but the afore mentioned after-market cooler.
> 
> My Saberkitten can only be happy with one less(er) source of heat, so I guess yours would think the same
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, as mentioned numerous times before, the main reason for VRM's heating up more when using a loop or a clc like yours to cool the cpu is the lesser airflow over the heatsink. And that problem is easily remedied by some small, inexspensive fans modded on / over the area.
> 
> If you'd like, I can take a snap-shot of my solution for you tomorrow for more inspiration.


Already have one AC Accelero Xtreme Plus II but want to go full water so i am holding off getting another. VRM's get to 65 tops so i am not terribly worried about it


----------



## Tater00nuts

Hi everyone, just found this thread so I figured I would post my rig. I built it back in April, upgraded from an E6600/680i. This was my first AMD build and won't be my last.

ASUS Sabertooth 990FX
AMDFX-8150
G.Skill Sniper Series 8GB DDR3 1600
EVGA GTX 570 HD 2560MB
OCZ Vertex3 60GB
WD160GB
WD 320GB
WD 1TB
Corsair tx850w PSU
Antec 900




I haven't done any overclocking with it as I have yet to upgrade from stock cooling. Any recommendations? I was thinking H80 or H100.


----------



## jzohng

do i want ddr3 1600 memory or ddr3 1333 memory? i dont ever plan on overclocking.


----------



## jzohng

ok ive decided ddr3 1600. do i want corsair vengeance or gskill ripjaws? im getting two seperate packs or 8gig 2x4 for a total of 16gigs.


----------



## laurie

16 is a lot unless you are going to utilize it all with Avid or something. If you are gaming 8GB could end up being faster.
I would go for the fastest memory you can afford. It can downclock if you are not intending on overclocking it.
Personally I have found that Samsung's 30nm RAM is the best price to performance RAM you can get. Runs on low V's too so it's cool and cheap to run.
Out of the two above it won't really make a difference. Choose the one you like the look of the heatspreader better on.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jzohng*
> 
> do i want ddr3 1600 memory or ddr3 1333 memory? i dont ever plan on overclocking.


Go with 1866 8 GB unless you are doing something that actually needs 16. I haven't had problems with any gskill, but both are good


----------



## jzohng

1. can you give me some links to the memory you are referring to plz? also i plan on using my computer for gaming. i have the pdf that shows supported memory for my asus sabertooth but i dont know which ones are ddr3 1860. i have the original sabertooth not the r2.

2. also im going to use a coolermaster hyper 212 plus for my processor. im wondering if it will get in the way of memory that has heat spreaders.

3. my processor is a amd phenomII x6 1090t black edition thuban 3.2ghz. will the memory you are referring have any compatible issues?


----------



## laurie

1. This is the best price in the UK. Not sure where you are.
http://www.cclonline.com/product/84734/MV-3V4G3D/US/Desktop-Memory/Samsung-Green-8GB-2x4GB-DDR3-PC3-12800C11-1600MHz-30nm-Dual-Channel-Kit/RAM0612/
I currently have mine clocked at 2060 but it can go very high.
It's superb for gaming. You wont want 16GB for gaming. You will get better performance from 8GB. The memory controller will be less stressed if you run just 8GB. And no game can utilize 16. Actually I've not seen a game use 8.
I used the Samsung Memory in an R1 Sabertooth.

2. It won't if you put the fan on the other side. Switch the mounts over and have the fan as a pull rather than push.
Or you can just mount the fan slightly high on the heatsink. I had to do that with ram with heatspreaders.

3.No.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jzohng*
> 
> 1. can you give me some links to the memory you are referring to plz? also i plan on using my computer for gaming. i have the pdf that shows supported memory for my asus sabertooth but i dont know which ones are ddr3 1860. i have the original sabertooth not the r2.
> 
> 2. also im going to use a coolermaster hyper 212 plus for my processor. im wondering if it will get in the way of memory that has heat spreaders.
> 
> 3. my processor is a amd phenomII x6 1090t black edition thuban 3.2ghz. will the memory you are referring have any compatible issues?


Gskill
Corsair

I shouldn't have any problems with either the heatsink or the IMC.


----------



## jzohng

@laurie im in the usa and i was asking about ddr3 1860. im wondering if the ddr3 1860 will have compatability issues with amd phenom II 1090t because the detail page on newegg shows up to ddr3 1600 for control features.


----------



## jzohng

@solders18 the memory you linked to is not on the list for sabertooth. but i did find some. now the issue is compatability with amd phenom II x6 1090t processor. it says up to ddr3 1600 for some control feature. will ddr3 1860 work with my processor?

oh lol imc is the control feature. anyone else have any input for the imc being compatible with dr3 1860 memory for phenom II x6 1090t?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jzohng*
> 
> 1. can you give me some links to the memory you are referring to plz? also i plan on using my computer for gaming. i have the pdf that shows supported memory for my asus sabertooth but i dont know which ones are ddr3 1860. i have the original sabertooth not the r2.
> 2. also im going to use a coolermaster hyper 212 plus for my processor. im wondering if it will get in the way of memory that has heat spreaders.
> 3. my processor is a amd phenomII x6 1090t black edition thuban 3.2ghz. will the memory you are referring have any compatible issues?


Woops... *edited due to miss read thought you were talking about fx processors*

from what i understand ( feel free to correct me ) but running memory above 1600 has a tenancy to make the mem controller to be damaged in the phenoms. some people have this problem some dont.... AMD has a warning about it as well. should be able to google it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jzohng*
> 
> @laurie im in the usa and i was asking about ddr3 1860. im wondering if the ddr3 1860 will have compatability issues with amd phenom II 1090t because the detail page on newegg shows up to ddr3 1600 for control features.


because amd says Phenoms only support 1600 is why to my understanding AMD doesnt support above 1600 due to above reasons
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jzohng*
> 
> @solders18 the memory you linked to is not on the list for sabertooth. but i did find some. now the issue is compatability with amd phenom II x6 1090t processor. it says up to ddr3 1600 for some control feature. will ddr3 1860 work with my processor?
> oh lol imc is the control feature. anyone else have any input for the imc being compatible with dr3 1860 memory for phenom II x6 1090t?


most mobos will support 95% of memory, maybe not @ rated speeds but slower, you could buy 2400 ram and run it @ 1600 with much tighter timings if you wanted to, but not be able to run it at 2400.


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jzohng*
> 
> it says up to ddr3 1600 for some control feature. will ddr3 1860 work with my processor?
> oh lol imc is the control feature. anyone else have any input for the imc being compatible with dr3 1860 memory for phenom II x6 1090t?


I had a 1090T and upgraded to an 1100T, with 8GB Corsair Dominator GT 1866 memory, and have run it at 1866 with no headaches whatsoever.


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah, I'm using this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820220635.

Not on ASUS's QVL and review sites were all "for Intel only" about them. Works fine and dandy on my system.


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jzohng*
> 
> ok ive decided ddr3 1600. do i want corsair vengeance or gskill ripjaws? im getting two seperate packs or 8gig 2x4 for a total of 16gigs.


This machine is a rev 1, it is currently running 16gig of G.Skill Trident X F3-2400C10D-16GTX with no problems, it previously had 16 gig of G.skill Ripjaws Z F3-14900CL9Q-16GBZL which also ran faultlessly. In the past I have used G.Skill Ripjaws X F3-12800CL7Q-16GBRH (1600Mhz) and G.Skill Ripjaws F3-12800CL9Q-16GBRL (1600Mhz) all ran faultlessly, I have been using G.Skill ram for years in a variety of boards and have never had a kit that didn't work. I can't comment on Corsair I haven't used their ram for years after having problems with some kits, but I have been told by a friend the Vengeance kits are very good.


----------



## sunset1

Im also a gskill convert.
I used to buy muskin memory exclusively and corsair before that.
For me gskill runs at the rated speed. My new corsair vengence 2400 mem doesnt run at 2400. I got them on sale and well they are going back.
This is on a different mobo and chip combo that actually supports it.
I now have about 5 sets of gskill memory 2 installed and Im amazed at the low cost and speed they run. Plus they have excellent support on newegg.
Good luck either way.


----------



## shampoo911

i've used kingston hyper x... those were brilliant rams.... with the elpida chip, pfffff... mindblowers.... then i wanted to try corsair vengeance.... and well.. TOOOTAL S***... could not run at the rated speed.... nothing.... not even near.... then i changed to gskill... im with my ripjaws x.... and they overclock like hell... thinking in buying 8gb more..

by the way.. when looking at the temps in HWMONITOR, should i worry the most on CPU TEMP? or in CORE TEMP??

CPU TEMP, hits 61°C, but CORE TEMP hits 55°C


----------



## sunset1

@shampoo911 sorry my sabertooth is down while i redo os.
on those gskill i just picked up a new set ripjaws z series for my 3770k on that microcenter deal .. yea a visit to the dark side.. :> cant wait to fire those up.. Just one more mod.. :>
I hope to have the sabertooth back up soon with some fans on the vrms. They were never that hot just like to keep things nice and cool.

How many people have a Mod Mess on the kitchen table? Wife wants her kitchen table back.


----------



## Mistral

LOL mine got the table back on Sunday.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> i've used kingston hyper x... those were brilliant rams.... with the elpida chip, pfffff... mindblowers.... then i wanted to try corsair vengeance.... and well.. TOOOTAL S***... could not run at the rated speed.... nothing.... not even near.... then i changed to gskill... im with my ripjaws x.... and they overclock like hell... thinking in buying 8gb more..
> 
> by the way.. when looking at the temps in HWMONITOR, should i worry the most on CPU TEMP? or in CORE TEMP??
> 
> CPU TEMP, hits 61°C, but CORE TEMP hits 55°C


There's a thread where AMD claims to go by core temps. To ease your worries about the temps, the engineers have said 90*C is when the silicon will start degrading and that the 62*C max is their safety net.

CPU Temp is the socket temp. You can blow a fan at the underside of the board and the temperature will (sometimes) go down.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> There's a thread where AMD claims to go by core temps. To ease your worries about the temps, the engineers have said 90*C is when the silicon will start degrading and that the 62*C max is their safety net.
> CPU Temp is the socket temp. You can blow a fan at the underside of the board and the temperature will (sometimes) go down.


thx a bunch.... i was cleaning my case.... to dust the hell out of it..... and incredibly, it reduced the temps like 3-4 degrees... i was OMG WTH ***...


----------



## Krusher33

Dust is an enemy.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> CPU Temp is the socket temp. You can blow a fan at the underside of the board and the temperature will (sometimes) go down.


Here is a thread I made that has some actual numbers on what happens if you cool the back of the CPU socket or the VRM heat sinks.

Here is a thread with pictures of how to use 2 small fans on brackets I bought from micro center. In this thread it is an Asus Z68 board but the heat sinks are in the same spot. One thing though I noticed is on the Intel board you really don't need extra cooling but on the 990FX it makes a huge difference.


----------



## shampoo911

what's the difference in mounting the ram sticks in slots A2-B2??? is there any advantage over A1-B1???


----------



## drongy

new bios and chipset drivers for r2 sabertooth 990fx motherboard on asus website


----------



## davwman

Just booted my sabertooth last night. Holy bios settings batman! My head is spinning. Anyone have a good guide?

Sent from my MB886


----------



## laurie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drongy*
> 
> new bios and chipset drivers for r2 sabertooth 990fx motherboard on asus website


Any word on what's been updated?


----------



## Mistral

Another new Sabertooth board?

http://technewspedia.com/asus-announces-new-sabertooth-990fxgen3-card-r2-0


----------



## drongy

have updated both haven't noticed any differences computer is still stable


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> Another new Sabertooth board?
> http://technewspedia.com/asus-announces-new-sabertooth-990fxgen3-card-r2-0


yeah well... same S*** different smell... with a bios update, they could have upgraded the pci-e 2.0 to 3.0...

the design is not that sexy...

no pci-e 1x????? way to go asus...


----------



## davwman

Installed my 965 and my zalman 9900 and notice some warping on top of the board. I have a tuniq coming that allows better control of tension on the socket. Is it all right if i run like this for a few days?

Sent from my MB886


----------



## sunset1

@davwman warping is never a good thing but without photos its impossible to figure out what is going on.
I did go to zalman and while i cant view the link on my ipad possibly it will work for you
this is the installation video.
warping can break traces in the pcb. Did you put all the motherboard screws in?
anyway here is the link. hope it helps.
http://www.zalman.com/eng/product/Product_Setup.php?Idx=416


----------



## davwman

. if you look at the board sideways. The edge of the board above the socket turns in towards the face of the mobo. Apparently im not the only one to have this issue. Reviews are stating that others are getting the same problem after installation. There is too much tension on the socket created from poor socket am3 mounting. The tuniq allows for tension adjustment because of the springs. As soon as i get home i will loosen it until the tuniq comes in. Fortunately enough the bowing relaxed when i installed the board on the stand offs. It still pisses me off because the cooler is insanely effective.

Sent from my MB886


----------



## sunset1

i almost bought that cooler when i bought my sabertooth. I took a chance on the thermaltake water 2.0 that had just came out.. At that time a lot of people disliked thermaltake with a passion when it cames to water. When i found out the clc i bought was made by asetek i got one and i have been very happy.
Most of my old air coolers were zalman or themalright. Its a shame that you are having this type of issue with it.
I would contact zalman directly I have before on other isses, and they were helpful and even sent me parts ( i dont remember if i got charged for them or not im thinking not.
Either way i hope you get this solved . It can be very frustrating. Good luck.
Sunset1


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> Another new Sabertooth board?
> http://technewspedia.com/asus-announces-new-sabertooth-990fxgen3-card-r2-0
> 
> 
> 
> yeah well... same S*** different smell... with a bios update, they could have upgraded the pci-e 2.0 to 3.0...
> 
> the design is not that sexy...
> 
> no pci-e 1x????? way to go asus...
Click to expand...

You can fit a 1x or 4x card in the 16x slot...


----------



## endevite

Direct Link for the 1302 Rev2.0 bios, all I see that it states is Stability improvements and it went up in size about 20k.

http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R2.0/SABERTOOTH-990FX-R20-ASUS-1302.zip


----------



## THC Butterz

Added a section of the op for windows 8 drivers for the R1 that are missing from the asus download page, got th JMicron drivers posted, and i uploaded the asmedia driver, if anyone else can think of any other missing drivers send me a PM


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> yeah well... same S*** different smell... with a bios update, they could have upgraded the pci-e 2.0 to 3.0...
> the design is not that sexy...
> no pci-e 1x????? way to go asus...


Regarding the last bit: you do realise that if need be, you could fit a x1 card in a x16 slot...

The other way arround, however, that's tricky


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> You can fit a 1x or 4x card in the 16x slot...


Regarding my previous message: Krusher, I hadn't read your post yet


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> You can fit a 1x or 4x card in the 16x slot...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Regarding the last bit: you do realise that if need be, you could fit a x1 card in a x16 slot...
> The other way arround, however, that's tricky


totally awareof it.... im using my sound card in the last pci-e slot.... no problem or whatsoever... still, i see this as a hardware necessity... just for the sake of appeareances haha...

oh, by the way... it says LIMITED EDITION... are they including some marshmallows chocolates too???


----------



## PiOfPie

Finally had some time to sit down and play with overclocking a bit. Moreorless stable; I can game on it and Prime95 doesn't return any errors after a 4ish hour run. Too impatient to run the full 24.









Validation


----------



## shampoo911

r1 and r2 use the same chipset? am i correct?

so will it be fine, if i download the r2 chipset driver and use it on the r1?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> r1 and r2 use the same chipset? am i correct?
> 
> so will it be fine, if i download the r2 chipset driver and use it on the r1?


why not just download the R1 chipset drivers?


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> why not just download the R1 chipset drivers?


on the global site, the link for the r1 chipset drivers, is broken..


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> r1 and r2 use the same chipset? am i correct?
> so will it be fine, if i download the r2 chipset driver and use it on the r1?


It looks like they use the same AMD 990FX/SB950 combo, so I would think so, aye.


----------



## sunset1

@thc butterz thank you sir for the op updates and all of your work on this awesome forum.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> yeah well... same S*** different smell... with a bios update, they could have upgraded the pci-e 2.0 to 3.0...
> the design is not that sexy...
> no pci-e 1x????? way to go asus...


dude. just plug into another PCIE slot... any one will work that is above a pciex1 slot, ( PCIEx4 or PCIEx16 in this case )


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> r1 and r2 use the same chipset? am i correct?
> so will it be fine, if i download the r2 chipset driver and use it on the r1?


Or you can go directly to amd and download their drivers from AMD.com

usually kept more up to date anyway


----------



## davwman

Without breaking a sweat got my 965 be up to 3.9 @ 1.4. Will go for 4.0ghz when i get more time but this board is insane with its bios options. Just wish i knew what they all did. :banghead: also just installed a 660ti superclocked and couldnt be happier! full load barely breaks 45c with stock cooler. Wish i could find a full guide explaining every bios option and what would help get the most out of the 965. Also the amount of ram settings is ridiculous and not really too sure where to start. And to think dfi back in the day had a broad bios

Sent from my MB886


----------



## sunset1

@davwman if you start from the beginning of this forum yes its long.. haha but before most of us had bulldozer or piledriver there should be some posts that deal with the specifics you need. But posting just like you did helps also. Im still learning how to effectively search the forums.. its a learning curve for me. one thing you will find is people solvi9ng common problems that could have you banging your head against the wall ;> Good luck.. and if you find a good guide post it. :>
Edit : many times important info is in the Origonal Post. or OP. Im on the ipad and i cant check it without loosing my post.


----------



## davwman

I understand and havent found any great guides anywhere. Reading every post from the beginning is not feasible when working a 40 hour work week and taking care of a one year old. My down time is limited to about an hour a night.

Sent from my MB886


----------



## sunset1

@davvman haha i know that feeling.
If i come across a post as i reread it from time to time to learn more.. Ill pass it on.. I do remember that truckerguy had a 5+ gig system with this board. I believe he has since sold the board. However if you search look at his posts in the sabertooth forum on overclocking and it might help narrow down things a lot. As i said before if i get time ill look it up. Good luck! to you and your family. ;> sleep is underrated when you have a child.


----------



## davwman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> @davvman haha i know that feeling.
> If i come across a post as i reread it from time to time to learn more.. Ill pass it on.. I do remember that truckerguy had a 5+ gig system with this board. I believe he has since sold the board. However if you search look at his posts in the sabertooth forum on overclocking and it might help narrow down things a lot. As i said before if i get time ill look it up. Good luck! to you and your family. ;> sleep is underrated when you have a child.


Got it up to 4ghz now running prime overnight. Played with voltages a bit, will see what happens

Sent from my MB886


----------



## davwman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> @davvman haha i know that feeling.
> If i come across a post as i reread it from time to time to learn more.. Ill pass it on.. I do remember that truckerguy had a 5+ gig system with this board. I believe he has since sold the board. However if you search look at his posts in the sabertooth forum on overclocking and it might help narrow down things a lot. As i said before if i get time ill look it up. Good luck! to you and your family. ;> sleep is underrated when you have a child.


Sleep! Whats that?

Sent from my MB886


----------



## davwman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> @davvman haha i know that feeling.
> If i come across a post as i reread it from time to time to learn more.. Ill pass it on.. I do remember that truckerguy had a 5+ gig system with this board. I believe he has since sold the board. However if you search look at his posts in the sabertooth forum on overclocking and it might help narrow down things a lot. As i said before if i get time ill look it up. Good luck! to you and your family. ;> sleep is underrated when you have a child.


I found a 965be guide. Do you want the link? Also running strong at 4.1 ghz with 1.45v 200x20.5. I have a lot of tweaking to do but, so far so good. I have my samsung ram running at 1333 to eliminate any issues right now. It foes run at its native 1600mhz though which is good to know. Cpu temp in prime refuses to go above 44c and vcore volts sit at 42c and 35c.

Sent from my MB886


----------



## davwman

Im a little confused. Evey time i try to change nb frequency to 2400 and exit the bios, the mobo turns itself off and restarts but the ht frequency still shows as 2000 in cpuz. This is with a 965 be

Sent from my MB886


----------



## zzztopzzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davwman*
> 
> Im a little confused. Evey time i try to change nb frequency to 2400 and exit the bios, the mobo turns itself off and restarts but the ht frequency still shows as 2000 in cpuz. This is with a 965 be
> Sent from my MB886


Try hitting ENTER before you exit.


----------



## davwman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzztopzzz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *davwman*
> 
> Im a little confused. Evey time i try to change nb frequency to 2400 and exit the bios, the mobo turns itself off and restarts but the ht frequency still shows as 2000 in cpuz. This is with a 965 be
> Sent from my MB886
> 
> 
> 
> Try hitting ENTER before you exit.
Click to expand...

Should the mobo reboot itself though? Its almost like it doesnt like the setting, even though when i go back into the bios it shows 2400.

Sent from my MB886


----------



## Raephen

That's odd. I owned a Ph.II 965 over a year ago, though that was on a different mobo (M5A99X EVO), I recall it could run on 2400MHz nb.

So you enter the value, save and exit bios and the computer shuts down and reboots itself (which is normal). But then what? Do you get an error message like "overclocking failed. press F1 to enter bios."? Or does it boot up and then crash?

You cold always try upping the NB or NB/CPU voltage a bit for stability.


----------



## Raephen

Hi y'all, I've got a question.

Have any of you noticed CnQ doesn't seem to function properly when doing an multiplier/bus mix overclock?

I've noticed this on my Sabertooth / FX 4170 combo.

When overclocking with just the multiplier to 4.8GHz everything's fine and CnQ does it's job properly, but the moment I put th emultiplier on 20, bus on 240, CnQ doesn't. Only LLC seems to do anything (Vcore ranging from 1.428 to 1.440).

Could this be a board issue, or cpu?


----------



## MrThatGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Hi y'all, I've got a question.
> Have any of you noticed CnQ doesn't seem to function properly when doing an multiplier/bus mix overclock?
> I've noticed this on my Sabertooth / FX 4170 combo.
> When overclocking with just the multiplier to 4.8GHz everything's fine and CnQ does it's job properly, but the moment I put th emultiplier on 20, bus on 240, CnQ doesn't. Only LLC seems to do anything (Vcore ranging from 1.428 to 1.440).
> Could this be a board issue, or cpu?


I has this issue as well with my 1100t. I haven't pinpointed exactly which setting in the Digi+ control area of the BIOS effects it, but having most of the settings on Auto and a max LLC of High for the CPU seem to allow CnQ to work properly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davwman*
> 
> Im a little confused. Evey time i try to change nb frequency to 2400 and exit the bios, the mobo turns itself off and restarts but the ht frequency still shows as 2000 in cpuz. This is with a 965 be
> Sent from my MB886


The HT bus and CPU-NB are not the same thing. Go to your memory tab, thats where CPU-z displays the CPU-NB frequency.


----------



## davwman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> That's odd. I owned a Ph.II 965 over a year ago, though that was on a different mobo (M5A99X EVO), I recall it could run on 2400MHz nb.
> 
> So you enter the value, save and exit bios and the computer shuts down and reboots itself (which is normal). But then what? Do you get an error message like "overclocking failed. press F1 to enter bios."? Or does it boot up and then crash?
> 
> You cold always try upping the NB or NB/CPU voltage a bit for stability.


No errors just reboots into is. Cpu z shows ht at 2000

Sent from my MB886


----------



## davwman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrThatGuy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Hi y'all, I've got a question.
> Have any of you noticed CnQ doesn't seem to function properly when doing an multiplier/bus mix overclock?
> I've noticed this on my Sabertooth / FX 4170 combo.
> When overclocking with just the multiplier to 4.8GHz everything's fine and CnQ does it's job properly, but the moment I put th emultiplier on 20, bus on 240, CnQ doesn't. Only LLC seems to do anything (Vcore ranging from 1.428 to 1.440).
> Could this be a board issue, or cpu?
> 
> 
> 
> I has this issue as well with my 1100t. I haven't pinpointed exactly which setting in the Digi+ control area of the BIOS effects it, but having most of the settings on Auto and a max LLC of High for the CPU seem to allow CnQ to work properly.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *davwman*
> 
> Im a little confused. Evey time i try to change nb frequency to 2400 and exit the bios, the mobo turns itself off and restarts but the ht frequency still shows as 2000 in cpuz. This is with a 965 be
> Sent from my MB886
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The HT bus and CPU-NB are not the same thing. Go to your memory tab, thats where CPU-z displays the CPU-NB frequency.
Click to expand...

Ahhh! Ok now I see it. Thanks:banghead:

Sent from my MB886


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrThatGuy*
> 
> I has this issue as well with my 1100t. I haven't pinpointed exactly which setting in the Digi+ control area of the BIOS effects it, but having most of the settings on Auto and a max LLC of High for the CPU seem to allow CnQ to work properly..


I honestly think the higher bus speed is confusing CnQ.

It works fine with multiplier only OC and ultra high LLC. I could check if lowering the LLC on my mix OC would make a difference.

I'll keep ya posted!


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> I honestly think the higher bus speed is confusing CnQ.
> It works fine with multiplier only OC and ultra high LLC. I could check if lowering the LLC on my mix OC would make a difference.
> I'll keep ya posted!


Nope, no difference. Even tried manual settings for the heck of it.

Lowering the cpu LLC to high seems to cap the Vcore (under load) at 1.428 V, no matter how high I increase the offset to begin with. For contrast: before I started OCCT, Vcore was 1.440 (minimum needed for a stable(-ish) 4.8 OC).

Ah well, I guess I'll stick to the purely multiplier OC


----------



## MrThatGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Nope, no difference. Even tried manual settings for the heck of it.
> Lowering the cpu LLC to high seems to cap the Vcore (under load) at 1.428 V, no matter how high I increase the offset to begin with. For contrast: before I started OCCT, Vcore was 1.440 (minimum needed for a stable(-ish) 4.8 OC).
> Ah well, I guess I'll stick to the purely multiplier OC


I currently run with a 240 Mhz reference clock and CnQ works for me.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> I honestly think the higher bus speed is confusing CnQ.
> It works fine with multiplier only OC and ultra high LLC. I could check if lowering the LLC on my mix OC would make a difference.
> I'll keep ya posted!
> 
> 
> 
> Nope, no difference. Even tried manual settings for the heck of it.
> 
> Lowering the cpu LLC to high seems to cap the Vcore (under load) at 1.428 V, no matter how high I increase the offset to begin with. For contrast: before I started OCCT, Vcore was 1.440 (minimum needed for a stable(-ish) 4.8 OC).
> 
> Ah well, I guess I'll stick to the purely multiplier OC
Click to expand...

it should just drop the multiplier like it would any other time. does it just stay at max clock?


----------



## Raephen

Aye, It stays 4.8 GHz all the time. I even messed with the cpu CnQ settings in bios, kinda in a way to 'remind' the Saberkitten it should do that (always disabled, save, boot, reset, bios, always enabled, save, boot etc etc).


----------



## Mistral

Have you checked the Catalyst CPU power setting the slider might be at maximum that stops cool n quiet working.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> Have you checked the Catalyst CPU power setting the slider might be at maximum that stops cool n quiet working.


Aye, I also checked that.

While odd, I don't really worry about it. I'll stick to the multiplier oc, I doubt I'll notice much difference between the two.


----------



## davwman

Currently sitting at 210 x 20 (4.2) ;-) on a 965 be with 1.4875 and cpu load line at extreme pushing the cpu volts to 1.5. Right now sitting at 46 c under prime 95 all other temps are fine and seems like it will be stable. I might try lowering volts a little, but will this voltage be ok?

Sent from my MB886


----------



## davwman

Really loving this board and cpu combo! Sitting at 4.275 ghz (213 x 20) with 1.488 v and cpu load line on auto which actually runs the board at extreme. using latest bios and drivers. Max cpu temp hits 47c under prime using an antec kuhler 620 in push/pull venting case-out, which as we all know isn't the best or even close to the best, but it seems to be doing the job. I also have some better fans on the way, and I might swap the fans to suck in air from outside the case to lower temps a little more. Vcore temp 1 hits 44c and vcore 2 hits 39c. Nb volts at max of 1.25v and nb ht volts at 1.3. Using samsung wonder ram that i installed some ridiculous oversized heat sinks on with 1.5v, speed of 853 and stock timings so far. Nb is 2350 and ht matched. It took me a few days to figure this board out, especially coming from a dfi socket 939 lan party, but i have to say , anyone questioning this mobo should have no remorse in buying it.

So with that said does anyone have any suggestions or comments to add good or bad to the way i have this thing running?

Sent from my MB886


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Aye, I also checked that.
> While odd, I don't really worry about it. I'll stick to the multiplier oc, I doubt I'll notice much difference between the two.


That's strange I've used the CPU bus for overclocking and Cool 'n ' Quiet works fine.


----------



## shampoo911

using all the power saving features, i can shave like 13 or 14 degrees of my cpu...

by the way... im having a massive vdroop.... i have my cpu vcore set on 1.39something.. and in max load, according to hwmonitor, it reaches 1.44v... any solutions?


----------



## MrThatGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> using all the power saving features, i can shave like 13 or 14 degrees of my cpu...
> by the way... im having a massive vdroop.... i have my cpu vcore set on 1.39something.. and in max load, according to hwmonitor, it reaches 1.44v... any solutions?


You need to either raise or lower your load line calibration settings (CPU LLC in BIOS).


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrThatGuy*
> 
> You need to either raise or lower your load line calibration settings (CPU LLC in BIOS).


i have it in auto... in both cpu and cpu/nb...


----------



## Raephen

1.44V, incl. llc ... That's the voltage my 4170 needs for 4.8GHz, any lower it gets unstable.
Never did a 24h stability check, but a 4h OCCT large data set test is enough for me.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> i have it in auto... in both cpu and cpu/nb...


Well. try setting it to regular, or high for the CPU and test for stability. Auto settings aren't alwats the best settings - compare auto settings to the standard VID AMD chips come with: for standard opperation, ussually a tad to high to be sure it functions properly.

Example: my htpc runs on a A8-3850. Standard Vcore (VID): 1.375 V. I was able to undervolt it to 1.18 V and still have stability. Chips and chipsets differ, even same brand / model ones, so manufacturers always use a margin of error.

So tweak a bit to find which settings work for you.

Perhaps it's just my Sabertooth motherboard, but voltage under load with high LLC seems to be capped at 1.428V, no matter how high the manual voltage / offset voltage is set to begin with.

I've seen it go from manual 1.440V - the minimal stable V for my oc - in iddle, drop down to 1.428 under load with high LLC and manual voltage settings.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Well. try setting it to regular, or high for the CPU and test for stability. Auto settings aren't alwats the best settings - compare auto settings to the standard VID AMD chips come with: for standard opperation, ussually a tad to high to be sure it functions properly.
> Example: my htpc runs on a A8-3850. Standard Vcore (VID): 1.375 V. I was able to undervolt it to 1.18 V and still have stability. Chips and chipsets differ, even same brand / model ones, so manufacturers always use a margin of error.
> So tweak a bit to find which settings work for you.
> Perhaps it's just my Sabertooth motherboard, but voltage under load with high LLC seems to be capped at 1.428V, no matter how high the manual voltage / offset voltage is set to begin with.
> I've seen it go from manual 1.440V - the minimal stable V for my oc - in iddle, drop down to 1.428 under load with high LLC and manual voltage settings.


I've set both LLC options at HIGH (cpu and cpu/nb)

currently, vcore = 1,380v (close to what i've set on bios)... i think it should go higher on load... will try... stay tuned... if stable, rep 4 u my friend =D


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Well. try setting it to regular, or high for the CPU and test for stability. Auto settings aren't alwats the best settings - compare auto settings to the standard VID AMD chips come with: for standard opperation, ussually a tad to high to be sure it functions properly.
> Example: my htpc runs on a A8-3850. Standard Vcore (VID): 1.375 V. I was able to undervolt it to 1.18 V and still have stability. Chips and chipsets differ, even same brand / model ones, so manufacturers always use a margin of error.
> So tweak a bit to find which settings work for you.
> Perhaps it's just my Sabertooth motherboard, but voltage under load with high LLC seems to be capped at 1.428V, no matter how high the manual voltage / offset voltage is set to begin with.
> I've seen it go from manual 1.440V - the minimal stable V for my oc - in iddle, drop down to 1.428 under load with high LLC and manual voltage settings.
> 
> 
> 
> I've set both LLC options at HIGH (cpu and cpu/nb)
> 
> currently, vcore = 1,380v (close to what i've set on bios)... i think it should go higher on load... will try... stay tuned... if stable, rep 4 u my friend =D
Click to expand...

you would be better off keeping the voltage the same in bios and load by using the high or ultra high setting. it sounds like under auto it is going to extreme and adding voltage which will cause alot of heat in the VRMs and cpu


----------



## shampoo911

ok... so playing a little need for speed most wanted...

settings

cpu LLC = ultra high
cpu/nb LLC = auto
bios vcore = 1.39v
vcore windows = 1.39v
vcore full load = 1.404v

temps

core temp max = 41ºC
socket temp max = 47ºC
motherboard temp minimum = 32ºC
motherboard temp max = 36ºC

kinda improved... motherboard temp was the only one that is affected... before setting LLC on cpu, it was 30ºC idle... and super max = 40ºC

will repost after sometime playing farcry 3

*EDIT*

no go with farcry 3 on previous settings

new settings

bios vcore = 1.4v
cpu LLC = Ultra high
cpu/nb LLC = regular

*EDIT 2*

bios vcore = 1.4v
cpu LLC = extreme
cpu/nb LLC = extreme

first 2 settings were NO GO/BSOD

3rd settings, pump WAY TOO MUCH voltage... so i think reverting to standard settings will be my next step.... anyway, rep 4 u guys... thx 4 the help


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> ok... so playing a little need for speed most wanted...
> 
> settings
> 
> cpu LLC = ultra high
> cpu/nb LLC = auto
> bios vcore = 1.39v
> vcore windows = 1.39v
> vcore full load = 1.404v
> 
> temps
> 
> core temp max = 41ºC
> socket temp max = 47ºC
> motherboard temp minimum = 32ºC
> motherboard temp max = 36ºC
> 
> kinda improved... motherboard temp was the only one that is affected... before setting LLC on cpu, it was 30ºC idle... and super max = 40ºC
> 
> will repost after sometime playing farcry 3
> 
> *EDIT*
> 
> no go with farcry 3 on previous settings
> 
> new settings
> 
> bios vcore = 1.4v
> cpu LLC = Ultra high
> cpu/nb LLC = regular
> 
> *EDIT 2*
> 
> bios vcore = 1.4v
> cpu LLC = extreme
> cpu/nb LLC = extreme
> 
> first 2 settings were NO GO/BSOD
> 
> 3rd settings, pump WAY TOO MUCH voltage... so i think reverting to standard settings will be my next step.... anyway, rep 4 u guys... thx 4 the help


just keep it on ultra and up vcore until it is stable you will probably have to up it a couple depending on how OC'd you are


----------



## THC Butterz

Me and my PC love this time of year


----------



## BonzaiTree

Butterz, I thought your location is Cali?

You're getting temps that low in winter in Cali? Wow.

I'm up in Canadialand and my temps don't drop much at all, and we don't use much heat.


----------



## zubzero689

here is me
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2523738


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> Butterz, I thought your location is Cali?
> 
> You're getting temps that low in winter in Cali? Wow.
> 
> I'm up in Canadialand and my temps don't drop much at all, and we don't use much heat.


actually I haven't updated my location, i'm in Virginia, and im on water cooling too, my friends 965 sitting right next to my rig on a M4N98TD EVO with the stock AMD air cooler is sitting around 35c with stock clocks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> here is me
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2523738


im not running bulldozer so i really cant get to 5ghz without ln2, but i have got my 1090t to 4.8 ghz valid, i have to look back through the earlier days of this thread to vind the validation.

edit... actually it was my 955be, heres the link, http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1965113
just got my 1090t to 4.7 right now though... http://valid.canardpc.com/2613798


----------



## laurie

I can't get LLC or any other options to stay where I put them. Is there a bug in AI suite?


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laurie*
> 
> I can't get LLC or any other options to stay where I put them. Is there a bug in AI suite?


set them on the bios...


----------



## laurie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> set them on the bios...


Do'h! Why didn't I think of that. Thanks.
I like how you use an ellipsis all the time. Makes it seem like you are fading in and out of consciousness


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laurie*
> 
> Do'h! Why didn't I think of that. Thanks.
> I like how you use an ellipsis all the time. Makes it seem like you are fading in and out of consciousness


hahaha relax... we all have our moments...


----------



## BonzaiTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> here is me
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2523738


Hot dang, nice OC. What cooling are you using?


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> ok... so playing a little need for speed most wanted...
> settings
> cpu LLC = ultra high
> cpu/nb LLC = auto
> bios vcore = 1.39v
> vcore windows = 1.39v
> vcore full load = 1.404v
> temps
> core temp max = 41ºC
> socket temp max = 47ºC
> motherboard temp minimum = 32ºC
> motherboard temp max = 36ºC
> kinda improved... motherboard temp was the only one that is affected... before setting LLC on cpu, it was 30ºC idle... and super max = 40ºC
> will repost after sometime playing farcry 3
> *EDIT*
> no go with farcry 3 on previous settings
> new settings
> bios vcore = 1.4v
> cpu LLC = Ultra high
> cpu/nb LLC = regular
> *EDIT 2*
> bios vcore = 1.4v
> cpu LLC = extreme
> cpu/nb LLC = extreme
> first 2 settings were NO GO/BSOD
> 3rd settings, pump WAY TOO MUCH voltage... so i think reverting to standard settings will be my next step.... anyway, rep 4 u guys... thx 4 the help


Don't give up quite yet. I know for a fact that Bulldozer's didn't respond well to TOO much voltage, and I imagine Piledriver might respond the same way.

Now, I don't know exactly how high your overclock is, and your NB and HT speeds, But when you are seriously overclocking, other voltages need some loving too. Upping things like VDDA etc can help improve stability. My best advice: do some research, read some reviews etc to see what's normal.

And do you also overclock your memory? If so: turn that down a notch and find the point at which your CPU is stable. When you've found that, try upping your RAM again.

Good luck and thanks for the +rep!


----------



## shampoo911

hi raephen...

cpu = 4.7ghz
cpu/nb = 2600mhz
ht link = 2600mhz

i used to overclock my rams, but that was before i had a crossfire setup.... now im using stock settings for my ram (2133mhz. 9-11-10-27 1T, with no voltage increase)


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> hi raephen...
> cpu = 4.7ghz
> cpu/nb = 2600mhz
> ht link = 2600mhz
> i used to overclock my rams, but that was before i had a crossfire setup.... now im using stock settings for my ram (2133mhz. 9-11-10-27 1T, with no voltage increase)


Aye, one thing catches my eye immediately: the NB speed.

I don't know how Piledriver likes it's northnridge cooked, but I know from experience my Bulldozer never liked having it beyond 2400MHz. And from what I've read about it, NB speed doesn't have that kind of performance impact with Bulldozer like it had with Deneb/Thuban (Phenom II).

My 4170 runs with NB: 2400MHZ, and HT-link:2600.


----------



## Walking Dude

please can some one give me a link to a thread on steps to do first time firing up this mobo with ssd for os and 3 t. hd for the rest. this isnt my first build, but the first "monster", monster being a compatative word. lolol. with two big vid cards, 1200 psu...etc. this should all be in my rig link.

just got home from the hospital for the holidays and would like to get it up and running before i go back in after the first.sorry for being lazy, but would like to do this. I do have the thread on instaliing the os on ssd and the rest on the hhd.

thankx

wd


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walking Dude*
> 
> please can some one give me a link to a thread on steps to do first time firing up this mobo with ssd for os and 3 t. hd for the rest. this isnt my first build, but the first "monster", monster being a compatative word. lolol. with two big vid cards, 1200 psu...etc. this should all be in my rig link.
> just got home from the hospital for the holidays and would like to get it up and running before i go back in after the first.sorry for being lazy, but would like to do this. I do have the thread on instaliing the os on ssd and the rest on the hhd.
> thankx
> wd


As far as I know, no special steps need to be taken with a Saberkitten. I believe it should support a 3 TB HDD (that is what you meant, aye?) and the board, by default, should run in AHCI mode, which lets you get the best performance out of the SSD - though that's easily checked in UEFI BIOS: Advance\SATA configuration\SB SATA configuration.

Ports 1-4 should be in AHCI mode., 5-6 (the on-board extra sata controller) is up to you.
Also, while you're there, be sure S.M.A.R.T. is enabled.

And your set to go!









Good luck.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Aye, one thing catches my eye immediately: the NB speed.
> I don't know how Piledriver likes it's northnridge cooked, but I know from experience my Bulldozer never liked having it beyond 2400MHz. And from what I've read about it, NB speed doesn't have that kind of performance impact with Bulldozer like it had with Deneb/Thuban (Phenom II).
> My 4170 runs with NB: 2400MHZ, and HT-link:2600.


well... the increase in performance in a bulldozer rig is not as high as in a thuban as you already said..... maybe i can shave a couple of degrees too...

i will try reducing the cpu/nb speed to same as you...


----------



## Raephen

I got curious and looked up a 8350 review.

In the OC they did, they had it at 4.7GHz with a Vcore of 1.428 (or so (but no mention of the LLC's used or other voltages) and the NB at 2400, HT link 2600.

Let me now how the lower NB works out for you.

EDIT:

Duh! I don't know why, but I was under the impression you upgraded to a 8350 (that's why I mentioned Piledriver a few times). Lol, my mistake. But in your case, 8150, definately lower the NB speed to 2400.


----------



## Walking Dude

thank you


----------



## Walking Dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> As far as I know, no special steps need to be taken with a Saberkitten. I believe it should support a 3 TB HDD (that is what you meant, aye?) and the board, by default, should run in AHCI mode, which lets you get the best performance out of the SSD - though that's easily checked in UEFI BIOS: Advance\SATA configuration\SB SATA configuration.
> Ports 1-4 should be in AHCI mode., 5-6 (the on-board extra sata controller) is up to you.
> Also, while you're there, be sure S.M.A.R.T. is enabled.
> And your set to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck.


thankx


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> I got curious and looked up a 8350 review.
> In the OC they did, they had it at 4.7GHz with a Vcore of 1.428 (or so (but no mention of the LLC's used or other voltages) and the NB at 2400, HT link 2600.
> Let me now how the lower NB works out for you.
> EDIT:
> Duh! I don't know why, but I was under the impression you upgraded to a 8350 (that's why I mentioned Piledriver a few times). Lol, my mistake. But in your case, 8150, definately lower the NB speed to 2400.


hahaha probably, mid-february i will do some upgrades.... the 8350 is my major upgrade, and if the sabertooth r2 gen3.0 is out by then, that will be another one...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walking Dude*
> 
> please can some one give me a link to a thread on steps to do first time firing up this mobo with ssd for os and 3 t. hd for the rest. this isnt my first build, but the first "monster", monster being a compatative word. lolol. with two big vid cards, 1200 psu...etc. this should all be in my rig link.
> just got home from the hospital for the holidays and would like to get it up and running before i go back in after the first.sorry for being lazy, but would like to do this. I do have the thread on instaliing the os on ssd and the rest on the hhd.
> thankx
> wd


http://www.overclock.net/t/1156654/seans-windows-7-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds#

best one i have ever found.


----------



## zubzero689

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> here is me
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2523738
> 
> 
> 
> Hot dang, nice OC. What cooling are you using?
Click to expand...

thanks i really tried hard for that one. i am useing xspc raystorm waterblock and i get temps in the 25c idle and like 35-40c max gpu is even cooler on the idle it like 20 but it does get up to 35c
my room is about 10c at all time i hate sweating


----------



## BonzaiTree

I'd like to get into water cooling, but just don't have the gear to justify it right now. Just built a new mid grade gamer, but also just bought a car (literall-- putting the deposit down tomorrow and paying in full and picking it up tuesday) so can't dump much into a computer. Later down the road when this system doesn't perform up to par.


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> well... the increase in performance in a bulldozer rig is not as high as in a thuban as you already said..... maybe i can shave a couple of degrees too...
> i will try reducing the cpu/nb speed to same as you...


My CPU/NB and HT are both at 2600 There is a significant boost in memory and system performance at 2600 as opposed to 2400 also the Physics is better in 3DII. I have the same results on the bulldozer rig I have. The only thing I found with this board is it doesn't like the CPU/NB above 2704 without ridiculous amounts of voltage.


----------



## Walking Dude

one last question before I fire this bad boy up.
I installed a Plextor PX-L890SA Lite-scribe DVD-CD Writer. I did not use the supplied sata cable that came with it, but used the sata cable that came with the cosair AX-1200 psu. I also plugged it in the sata 6, not the 3 hookup on the saber kitty, rev 1. Am i okay to get this on the road?

TIA

wd


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walking Dude*
> 
> one last question before I fire this bad boy up.
> I installed a Plextor PX-L890SA Lite-scribe DVD-CD Writer. I did not use the supplied sata cable that came with it, but used the sata cable that came with the cosair AX-1200 psu. I also plugged it in the sata 6, not the 3 hookup on the saber kitty, rev 1. Am i okay to get this on the road?
> 
> TIA
> 
> wd


your good to go, however i would have pluged it into sata 2 because sata 3 is unnecessary for a dvd drive to use sata 3, and it would leave a open 3 port for later on down the road


----------



## Walking Dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> your good to go, however i would have pluged it into sata 2 because sata 3 is unnecessary for a dvd drive to use sata 3, and it would leave a open 3 port for later on down the road


thankx


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> I've used several kits of G.Skill RipjawsZ F3-14900CL9Q-16GBZL they all worked fine. The Kit I've just removed was running at 9-10-9-28-37-2T @ 1.55v, ( I can't give you the other settings I've just replaced the kit with a TridentX 2400Mhz 16gig kit but auto should be fine) . The CPU was @ 5.0Ghz CPU/NB and HT Link @ 2600Mhz ( I never run the HT Link higher than the CPU it can cause instability) The CPU/NB voltage was 1.4v with the LLC on regular. I'm currently running tests on the tridents so far it's @ 2218Mhz 9-11-11-31-2T @ 1.65v CPU/NB and HT are @ 2704Ghz. I'm using Win 8 Pro O/S. That kit should work fine I'm basically running the Tridents the same at the moment with slightly different timings.


Well, guys ... It seems that I just damaged my one RAM stick and I will have to buy any replacement







I just wanted to remove stock heatsink and add aftermarket one Arctic Cooling RC Pro.
I thought it will be very easy. So, I watched a few tutorials and tried to remove the aluminium heatsink. It seems that my Corsair low-profile RAM is very sensitive or heatsinks are just glued to ramchips for good. I just don't really know because it seems that there are no adhesive tape there like in high profile memory sticks. Anyone knows how to remove this heatsink?


So, there is a question for you.
I was wondering about buying [ RipjawsZ ] F3-17000CL9Q-8GBZH (2Gx4) but then I thought it would be nice to have 16 GB of memory and I saw this
TridentX [ TDX ] F3-2133C9D-16GTX and thought to myself: nice








Any recommendations ...

@Mistral Are those Tridents you have ? I can see tested voltage is 1.6, so how about their overclocking capability?


----------



## davwman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> I've used several kits of G.Skill RipjawsZ F3-14900CL9Q-16GBZL they all worked fine. The Kit I've just removed was running at 9-10-9-28-37-2T @ 1.55v, ( I can't give you the other settings I've just replaced the kit with a TridentX 2400Mhz 16gig kit but auto should be fine) . The CPU was @ 5.0Ghz CPU/NB and HT Link @ 2600Mhz ( I never run the HT Link higher than the CPU it can cause instability) The CPU/NB voltage was 1.4v with the LLC on regular. I'm currently running tests on the tridents so far it's @ 2218Mhz 9-11-11-31-2T @ 1.65v CPU/NB and HT are @ 2704Ghz. I'm using Win 8 Pro O/S. That kit should work fine I'm basically running the Tridents the same at the moment with slightly different timings.
> 
> 
> 
> Well, guys ... It seems that I just damaged my one RAM stick and I will have to buy any replacement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just wanted to remove stock heatsink and add aftermarket one Arctic Cooling RC Pro.
> I thought it will be very easy. So, I watched a few tutorials and tried to remove the aluminium heatsink. It seems that my Corsair low-profile RAM is very sensitive or heatsinks are just glued to ramchips for good. I just don't really know because it seems that there are no adhesive tape there like in high profile memory sticks. Anyone knows how to remove this heatsink?
> 
> 
> So, there is a question for you.
> I was wondering about buying [ RipjawsZ ] F3-17000CL9Q-8GBZH (2Gx4) but then I thought it would be nice to have 16 GB of memory and I saw this
> TridentX [ TDX ] F3-2133C9D-16GTX and thought to myself: nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any recommendations ...
> 
> @Mistral Are those Tridents you have ? I can see tested voltage is 1.6, so how about their overclocking capability?
Click to expand...

The Rc pros are awesome

Sent from my MB886


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walking Dude*
> 
> one last question before I fire this bad boy up.
> I installed a Plextor PX-L890SA Lite-scribe DVD-CD Writer. I did not use the supplied sata cable that came with it, but used the sata cable that came with the cosair AX-1200 psu. I also plugged it in the sata 6, not the 3 hookup on the saber kitty, rev 1. Am i okay to get this on the road?
> TIA
> wd


Aye. Sata 3 just as easily supports SATA 2, long live backwards compatibility. The only difference between the two types is max. supported bandwith (ie: the max amount of data per second).

SATA 2 is 3 Gb/s, SATA 3 = 6 Gb/s (<- note the b instead of B: Gb = Gigabit, not to be confused with GB, Gigabyte - onw byte = 8 bit).

And as far as I knbow, you'd still be ok if you hooked the original SATA 2 cable into one of the SATA 3 ports.


----------



## Walking Dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Aye. Sata 3 just as easily supports SATA 2, long live backwards compatibility. The only difference between the two types is max. supported bandwith (ie: the max amount of data per second).
> SATA 2 is 3 Gb/s, SATA 3 = 6 Gb/s (<- note the b instead of B: Gb = Gigabit, not to be confused with GB, Gigabyte - onw byte = 8 bit).
> And as far as I knbow, you'd still be ok if you hooked the original SATA 2 cable into one of the SATA 3 ports.


moved the connecter, fired it up....had the usual hickups, like no power ran the the fan junction on the back..... easy fix. front panel usb 3 not plugged into the board.....easy fix once noticed. Installing comodo atm. only the ssd hooked up atm. want programs do i want intalled on the ssd and move what programs to the 3T hhd? os, security, ........?????????

tia
wd


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Well, guys ... It seems that I just damaged my one RAM stick and I will have to buy any replacement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just wanted to remove stock heatsink and add aftermarket one Arctic Cooling RC Pro.
> I thought it will be very easy. So, I watched a few tutorials and tried to remove the aluminium heatsink. It seems that my Corsair low-profile RAM is very sensitive or heatsinks are just glued to ramchips for good. I just don't really know because it seems that there are no adhesive tape there like in high profile memory sticks. Anyone knows how to remove this heatsink?
> 
> So, there is a question for you.
> I was wondering about buying [ RipjawsZ ] F3-17000CL9Q-8GBZH (2Gx4) but then I thought it would be nice to have 16 GB of memory and I saw this
> TridentX [ TDX ] F3-2133C9D-16GTX and thought to myself: nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any recommendations ...
> @Mistral Are those Tridents you have ? I can see tested voltage is 1.6, so how about their overclocking capability?


Yes they are TridentX they are PC19200(2400Mhz) 10-12-12-31-cr1 1.65v so they won't overclock much, I've tested them at 2400, 2300, 2200 and 2133 and at 2133 with lower latencies they are actually faster than at 2400. I've used RipjawsZ 1866Mhz 16 gig kits and they worked flawlessly so I would think the 2133Mhz kit would be the same. You shouldn't have any problems with the Trident X kit either, as to overclocking them it depends what ram chips are on the modules e.g. 2400Mhz chips are 2600 ones that don't make the grade so overclocking them is a bit of a lottery. Overclocking the 2133's would depend on whether they are overclocked 2000Mhz rams or underclocked 2200's I would think you stand a good chance of getting them to run at 2200Mhz. I have never had a kit of G.Skill rams fail on me yet I find them very reliable.


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davwman*
> 
> The Rc pros are awesome
> 
> Sent from my MB886


I am sure they are. They look great and they are 76 mm tall, so they are much more taller than any other stock heatsinks (I think) on the market. The problem is that I won't be able to mount them because I've already damaged (







) one memory stick. It is visible in BIOS menu but it's not visible while I boot up my system. And again Windows says there is 8 GB of ram total but only 3.8 GB usable :/ So, actually I think I've finished them off. Just from the curiosity ... anyone knows how to remove heatsinks from Corsair low profile RAM sticks? They "were" quite good actually ...



But now as I said I can say "goodbye" to Arctic Cooling Pro and my Corsair memory.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> Yes they are TridentX they are PC19200(2400Mhz) 10-12-12-31-cr1 1.65v so they won't overclock much, I've tested them at 2400, 2300, 2200 and 2133 and at 2133 with lower latencies they are actually faster than at 2400. I've used RipjawsZ 1866Mhz 16 gig kits and they worked flawlessly so I would think the 2133Mhz kit would be the same. You shouldn't have any problems with the Trident X kit either, as to overclocking them it depends what ram chips are on the modules e.g. 2400Mhz chips are 2600 ones that don't make the grade so overclocking them is a bit of a lottery. Overclocking the 2133's would depend on whether they are overclocked 2000Mhz rams or underclocked 2200's I would think you stand a good chance of getting them to run at 2200Mhz. I have never had a kit of G.Skill rams fail on me yet I find them very reliable.


Annnnnd ... I've ordered this set you have







I hope they will be a nice present for Christmass (for me of course). Thanks for your recommendation.


----------



## Mistral

The top of the heatsink is removable on the tridents couple of small screws.

http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2012/04/19/g-skill-modular-trident-x/1


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> The top of the heatsink is removable on the tridents couple of small screws.
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2012/04/19/g-skill-modular-trident-x/1


Yeap! But it's not what I meant. I was thinking about my current memory sticks Corsair low profile. I was convinced that removing them will be quite easy and I used hair dryer to make the whole process of removing them easier. I don't know what was the reason but it seems that heatsinks in my Corsair Ram are attached for good (very firmly ... I assume they are just glued permanently to RAM chips). And that is how I damaged my 1 memory module.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walking Dude*
> 
> moved the connecter, fired it up....had the usual hickups, like no power ran the the fan junction on the back..... easy fix. front panel usb 3 not plugged into the board.....easy fix once noticed. Installing comodo atm. only the ssd hooked up atm. want programs do i want intalled on the ssd and move what programs to the 3T hhd? os, security, ........?????????
> tia
> wd


SSD's are wonderfull as os drives, av-software and other programms you run a lot.

What you install to it depends on the size you have. Mainstream are 128GB ones atm, and that will be more than enough for os/av/other.
A 64GB would be doable, but then only os / av and you'd be wise to move your documents folder to the 3TB disk in that case.
But that all depends on the os you want to use: 64GB would be just enough Windows 7 / 8, but Windows XP would fit on a 32 GB one with more than enough room to spare. The same goes for the various open source Linux distros ou there.

The 3TB could be used for other software that doesn't need the speed and/or just takes up a lot of space, could be used for download folders and of course used for backups (either with the Windows back-up manager or programms like Norton Ghost).

Cheers!


----------



## Shroomalistic

anyone having issues with the new r2.0 1302 bios just recently released? It killed my ram overclock. was running ram at 1866 8-9-9 1t before the flash now i can barely get 9-9-9 1t stable.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Well, guys ... It seems that I just damaged my one RAM stick and I will have to buy any replacement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just wanted to remove stock heatsink and add aftermarket one Arctic Cooling RC Pro.
> I thought it will be very easy. So, I watched a few tutorials and tried to remove the aluminium heatsink. It seems that my Corsair low-profile RAM is very sensitive or heatsinks are just glued to ramchips for good. I just don't really know because it seems that there are no adhesive tape there like in high profile memory sticks. Anyone knows how to remove this heatsink?
> 
> So, there is a question for you.
> I was wondering about buying [ RipjawsZ ] F3-17000CL9Q-8GBZH (2Gx4) but then I thought it would be nice to have 16 GB of memory and I saw this
> TridentX [ TDX ] F3-2133C9D-16GTX and thought to myself: nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any recommendations ...
> @Mistral Are those Tridents you have ? I can see tested voltage is 1.6, so how about their overclocking capability?


The ripjaws 2133 are excellent.Cl9 @ 2133, cl8 @ 2000mhz, and cl7 around 1750 or so. You can get em for $50 when there on sale.


----------



## Walking Dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> SSD's are wonderfull as os drives, av-software and other programms you run a lot.
> What you install to it depends on the size you have. Mainstream are 128GB ones atm, and that will be more than enough for os/av/other.
> A 64GB would be doable, but then only os / av and you'd be wise to move your documents folder to the 3TB disk in that case.
> But that all depends on the os you want to use: 64GB would be just enough Windows 7 / 8, but Windows XP would fit on a 32 GB one with more than enough room to spare. The same goes for the various open source Linux distros ou there.
> 
> The 3TB could be used for other software that doesn't need the speed and/or just takes up a lot of space, could be used for download folders and of course used for backups (either with the Windows back-up manager or programms like Norton Ghost).
> Cheers!


its a 265 g ssd


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walking Dude*
> 
> its a 265 g ssd


Then you'll have plenty of room for the os + a whole bunch of other programs!

PS - maybe I'll be getting an 830, 256GB a in a few weeks, the notebook upgrade kit to replace the 128GB Crucial M4 in my notebook. The Samsung 830 has a very good reputation.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shroomalistic*
> 
> anyone having issues with the new r2.0 1302 bios just recently released? It killed my ram overclock. was running ram at 1866 8-9-9 1t before the flash now i can barely get 9-9-9 1t stable.


Don't have r2.0, but can say new bios' can change things when overclocking, quite a bit. 1 to another has change my spd ext's. in bios and i've had to manually re-enter them, as well as my clock speed thresholds. A newer bios isn't always a upgrade. Looking to fix 1 specific bug can cause other issues.


----------



## PainKiller89

I am probably asking a stupid question here and you probably cant, but i will ask anyway can you flash rev 2.0 bios on rev.1 board? Also which bios do you guys recommend for asus sabertooth 990fx rev 1 board.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PainKiller89*
> 
> I am probably asking a stupid question here and you probably cant, but i will ask anyway can you flash rev 2.0 bios on rev.1 board? Also which bios do you guys recommend for asus sabertooth 990fx rev 1 board.


in behalf of the people in this thread... without being rude or something like that... i think (99,9% sure) that it is impossible to flash a rev2.0 bios on a 1.0....


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PainKiller89*
> 
> I am probably asking a stupid question here and you probably cant, but i will ask anyway can you flash rev 2.0 bios on rev.1 board? Also which bios do you guys recommend for asus sabertooth 990fx rev 1 board.
> 
> 
> 
> in behalf of the people in this thread... without being rude or something like that... i think (99,9% sure) that it is impossible to flash a rev2.0 bios on a 1.0....
Click to expand...

you can't. they are two different boards. the only thing interchangeable are utilities like asus suite and chipset drivers. i would just go with latest bios.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PainKiller89*
> 
> I am probably asking a stupid question here and you probably cant, but i will ask anyway can you flash rev 2.0 bios on rev.1 board? Also which bios do you guys recommend for asus sabertooth 990fx rev 1 board.


No, you can't and which version depends on cpu. Latest revision did not help my 1100T, but is what I use for my 8350. Depends on your harware. 1102 for Thuban, 1604 for Vishera. My


----------



## Walking Dude

back again.......
loaded up the mother board support disk........i think i got everything done, but mobo wont recognize the 3 tb hdd. Tho I see in one Asus Ulitiy, it needs to be partitoned? But the mobo in boot menu still does not show the hdd. I hit print screen, but paint wont bring up the boot menu pict. when I hit print screen. I have never done a master drive and a slave drive, so please forgive my ignorance.
Or if there is already a guide for idiots like me, please point me in the direcftion.

TIA

wd


----------



## Walking Dude

another damn issue....no sound outta my altecs. I plugged em into the headphone jack to make sure i was getting sound. Not the best, but these are the 2 cubes/subwoofer combo, so didn't expect the headphone jack to really put out alot of sound. I plugged it into the front speaker outlet on the mobo, as the manual said.....nada. The realtek drivers are installed.

sorry to be the bonehead here.....

wd


----------



## BonzaiTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walking Dude*
> 
> back again.......
> loaded up the mother board support disk........i think i got everything done, but mobo wont recognize the 3 tb hdd. Tho I see in one Asus Ulitiy, it needs to be partitoned? But the mobo in boot menu still does not show the hdd. I hit print screen, but paint wont bring up the boot menu pict. when I hit print screen. I have never done a master drive and a slave drive, so please forgive my ignorance.
> Or if there is already a guide for idiots like me, please point me in the direcftion.
> TIA
> wd


You need to reformat is at GTP, because they don't natively recognize disks over 2.2TB.

http://www.tomshardware.com/news/Disk-Unlocker-GUID-Partition-Table-Extensive-Firmware-Interface-HDD,11553.html


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BonzaiTree*
> 
> You need to reformat is at GTP, because they don't natively recognize disks over 2.2TB.
> http://www.tomshardware.com/news/Disk-Unlocker-GUID-Partition-Table-Extensive-Firmware-Interface-HDD,11553.html


Really? That's a shame.

I never thought of it because I don't need it, it having the EFI / UEFI bios and all, plus I always thought a relatively new board like the 990FX Sabertooth did / should support sizes over the 2.2GB limit older boards had.

Edit: lol! I meant 2.2TB of course


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walking Dude*
> 
> another damn issue....no sound outta my altecs. I plugged em into the headphone jack to make sure i was getting sound. Not the best, but these are the 2 cubes/subwoofer combo, so didn't expect the headphone jack to really put out alot of sound. I plugged it into the front speaker outlet on the mobo, as the manual said.....nada. The realtek drivers are installed.
> sorry to be the bonehead here.....
> wd


Did you try the audio out on the rear of the mobo?

The front jack will only work if you plug the case connector onto the header of the mobo, and set the type of audio (AC'97 or HD Audio) in the BIOS to match which your case audio cable uses.

Headphone out won't drive any speaker with a sub, but you can use headphones to test it.

Do your speakers require an AC cord or DC adapter to be plugged in to operate.

You also need to select the proper audio out method in the mixer to drive the speaker out as opposed to SP/DIF or optical audio out. (It is usually accessible via the speaker icon in the taskbar with a right click, or thru the control panel).

Good Luck!


----------



## GotOneToo

Thought I join too..

My Box:

Cooler Master Storm

OCZ ZT Series 750W Power Supply

Sabertooth 990FX R2.0

AMD FX8350 (Stock Cooler) Running at 4334.5 Mhz









(I just used the "Overclock" button in the Bios)









16Gb Muskin Redline 1866 (4 X 4 GB)

ATI HD 4770

Intel 520 (120) SSD

I don't play games, I am a programmer.

Never the less, a little power helps here too.









CPU Benchmark 8 showed 10193 for the CPU Mark.

Considering I run SQL2012 and IIS in the background while testing, not bad going.

Just not sure if the Temps are shown correct 39C appear a bit low at full tilt.

All the best from the UK


----------



## xenomorph113

so i just had a chipset block leak over the weekend, took out my sabertooth, very sad and what not.

quick question, any major differences between my old Rev1 board versus the new Rev2?

do you think i would need to re-create my raid configs from going from a rev1 to a rev2? i believe its the same chipset and raid controller


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenomorph113*
> 
> so i just had a chipset block leak over the weekend, took out my sabertooth, very sad and what not.
> quick question, any major differences between my old Rev1 board versus the new Rev2?
> do you think i would need to re-create my raid configs from going from a rev1 to a rev2? i believe its the same chipset and raid controller


enormous pain dude... my condelences... i feel you...

difference... in a big part, are the sata controllers... no more JMicron in r2.0.... i think a couple more of usb 3.0, and the bios obviously... i do not know if you have to rebuild your raid arrays..... but maybe you have to... just to keep it safe... try to do a backup and then reformat...


----------



## Snipestech

Having issues overclocking a 8150 on one of these boards where is it safe to post ask for help?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Walking Dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*
> 
> Did you try the audio out on the rear of the mobo?
> The front jack will only work if you plug the case connector onto the header of the mobo, and set the type of audio (AC'97 or HD Audio) in the BIOS to match which your case audio cable uses.
> Headphone out won't drive any speaker with a sub, but you can use headphones to test it.
> Do your speakers require an AC cord or DC adapter to be plugged in to operate.
> You also need to select the proper audio out method in the mixer to drive the speaker out as opposed to SP/DIF or optical audio out. (It is usually accessible via the speaker icon in the taskbar with a right click, or thru the control panel).
> Good Luck!


i mentioned i only ran it out the headphone jack to make sure the speakers still worked. I knew it would drive it. I discovered this problem by runnning out the back of the mobo. the place where the owners manual told me to. Na Na. It is set up at analog, like it also has. Altec Lansing ACS45B speakers. Requires a ac cord. When I plug the speakers into the mob, as before my other puters, I get the normal crackling I normally do when hooking up a speaker.


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> Yes they are TridentX they are PC19200(2400Mhz) 10-12-12-31-cr1 1.65v so they won't overclock much, I've tested them at 2400, 2300, 2200 and 2133 and at 2133 with lower latencies they are actually faster than at 2400. I've used RipjawsZ 1866Mhz 16 gig kits and they worked flawlessly so I would think the 2133Mhz kit would be the same. You shouldn't have any problems with the Trident X kit either, as to overclocking them it depends what ram chips are on the modules e.g. 2400Mhz chips are 2600 ones that don't make the grade so overclocking them is a bit of a lottery. Overclocking the 2133's would depend on whether they are overclocked 2000Mhz rams or underclocked 2200's I would think you stand a good chance of getting them to run at 2200Mhz. I have never had a kit of G.Skill rams fail on me yet I find them very reliable.


Right! So, today I got my set of TridentX (the same kit you have). After a few tests I am really dissapointed.








Maybe it's because they are 2x8 GB and they need a little bit more voltage to run ...
I tried to run them @ 1333 MHz with 9-9-9-24-33 1T timings and it needed 1.57 V to boot up and start Windows








Even now after I've done some tests in MemTest Pro there are errors :/
I really don't know what to do. I've changed slots from A2-B2 to A1-B1 but it doesn't matter.
So, I can I ask you a favour? Would you be so kind and (if it's possible) upload your BIOS settings (screenshots?) with your DRAM Timing section and your voltages ?
I thought it would be quite easy to get to 2133 MHz with 9-11-10-24 1T timmings but I am afraid I would have to bump my voltage to 1.7 or sth to make it stable. I am confused now ...
One more thing. When I had removed my old RAM and put the new one BIOS detected only 8 GB of memory. (maybe it's some kind of BIOS glitch or ...) After I swapped slots they is full 16 GB of memory visible but nevertheless it was quite "terrifying"


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Right! So, today I got my set of TridentX (the same kit you have). After a few tests I am really dissapointed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe it's because they are 2x8 GB and they need a little bit more voltage to run ...
> I tried to run them @ 1333 MHz with 9-9-9-24-33 1T timings and it needed 1.57 V to boot up and start Windows
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even now after I've done some tests in MemTest Pro there are errors :/
> I really don't know what to do. I've changed slots from A2-B2 to A1-B1 but it doesn't matter.
> So, I can I ask you a favour? Would you be so kind and (if it's possible) upload your BIOS settings (screenshots?) with your DRAM Timing section and your voltages ?
> I thought it would be quite easy to get to 2133 MHz with 9-11-10-24 1T timmings but I am afraid I would have to bump my voltage to 1.7 or sth to make it stable. I am confused now ...
> One more thing. When I had removed my old RAM and put the new one BIOS detected only 8 GB of memory. (maybe it's some kind of BIOS glitch or ...) After I swapped slots they is full 16 GB of memory visible but nevertheless it was quite "terrifying"


one pal had the same problem with his ram sticks... he has a sandy bridge, and it was only detecting 8gb (out of 16gb) in a2 and b1 slots... he thought that the socket was deffective and was one step away to RMA'ing... so he decided to re-install his whole rig.... dismount the MOBO, and stuff... and it was an overtighten screw that was causing the problem.... try and do that... maybe you have the same problem as my pal...


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Right! So, today I got my set of TridentX (the same kit you have). After a few tests I am really dissapointed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe it's because they are 2x8 GB and they need a little bit more voltage to run ...
> I tried to run them @ 1333 MHz with 9-9-9-24-33 1T timings and it needed 1.57 V to boot up and start Windows
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even now after I've done some tests in MemTest Pro there are errors :/
> I really don't know what to do. I've changed slots from A2-B2 to A1-B1 but it doesn't matter.
> So, I can I ask you a favour? Would you be so kind and (if it's possible) upload your BIOS settings (screenshots?) with your DRAM Timing section and your voltages ?
> I thought it would be quite easy to get to 2133 MHz with 9-11-10-24 1T timmings but I am afraid I would have to bump my voltage to 1.7 or sth to make it stable. I am confused now ...
> One more thing. When I had removed my old RAM and put the new one BIOS detected only 8 GB of memory. (maybe it's some kind of BIOS glitch or ...) After I swapped slots they is full 16 GB of memory visible but nevertheless it was quite "terrifying"


You should either have cleared the Cmos before installing the new rams or put all your ram settings on auto. I'll upload the BIOS pics to Photobucket or somewhere and give you a link.

Some basic settings for Trident rams at 2133Mhz are.
Dram Cas Latency 9
Dram Ras to Cas Delay 11
Dram Ras Pre time 11
Dram Ras Act Time 31

You should be able to run with the rest on auto until I upload the pics, the default voltage is 1.65v but mine are running at 1.6v for now put the CR on 2 and don't test the memory with the CPU
overclocked to start with or you won't know if it is the ram that is showing errors or the memory controller. I have never used Memtest Pro for testing I use either Memtest86+ on a disc or AIDA64, I'll download Memtest Pro and run it and see if it errors.

http://s149.beta.photobucket.com/user/ConscriptUKC-X/library/BIOS%20Pics


----------



## pendrago

[quote name="Mistral" url="/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-990fx-owners-club/3850_50#post_18867503"
You should either have cleared the Cmos before installing the new rams or put all your ram settings on auto. I'll upload the BIOS pics to Photobucket or somewhere and give you a link.

Yeap! I have cleared CMOS and then I set it all on auto. I don't know... maybe it is more difficult to make 16 GB of RAM to run stable than 8 GB.
Now I run my rig @ 1600 MHz 9-9-9-24-40 1T



I checked the stability in LYNX and in Memtest Pro and there were no errors. I prefer Win Memtest Pro than Memtest86+ because the first one stresses also all cores. I can run 6 instances of Memtest Pro and assign equal amount of memory to test and each core has an access to for instance 2450 MB or RAM.
Quote:


> Some basic settings for Trident rams at 2133Mhz are.
> Dram Cas Latency 9
> Dram Ras to Cas Delay 11
> Dram Ras Pre time 11
> Dram Ras Act Time 31
> 
> You should be able to run with the rest on auto until I upload the pics, the default voltage is 1.65v but mine are running at 1.6v for now put the CR on 2 and don't test the memory with the CPU
> overclocked to start with or you won't know if it is the ram that is showing errors or the memory controller. I have never used Memtest Pro for testing I use either Memtest86+ on a disc or AIDA64, I'll download Memtest Pro and run it and see if it errors.


Well, my previous Corsair RAM was just brilliant comparing to the result I got using Trident X

*Corsair XMS3 1333 MHZ* *VS.* *Trident X @1600 MHz*
 

You can see the difference.
Corsair ... with CPU overclocked to *3.6 GHz* is actually better than TridentX with CPU overclocked to *3.8 GHz* and I wonder ... sth is not quite right here
















*EDIT:*

...but this one looks better, huh ?


----------



## Mistral

16 gig of ram puts more stress on the memory controller, also 16gig in 2 dimms use bigger chips you can't compare 8 gig with 16 really, for a start the memory chips can be from different chip manufacturers. If you check people going for record benches rarely use more than 4 gig of ram.
I'm currently running Memtest pro 4.0 it's on 80% no errors.
If you check out the pics I posted you will see your Corsair ram is not even in the same ballpark.


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> 16 gig of ram puts more stress on the memory controller....


And that's what I thought. Thanks for uploading BIOS screenshots!







+Rep
Quote:


> also 16gig in 2 dimms use bigger chips you can't compare 8 gig with 16 really, for a start the memory chips can be from different chip manufacturers.


And that's also a good point though when I buy a kit of 2x8 GB I would rather expect that memory chips come from the same manufacturer.
Quote:


> If you check people going for record benches rarely use more than 4 gig of ram.


And that's probably the issue here. Having 8 GB of RAM was obviously an advantage because they were much more "responsive" (tighter timings, less power consumption).
Ok! Thanks very much for your posts. I wonder if it would be a good move to return the Tridents to a shop and buy a new set of those Corsairs (grrrrrr I damaged :/).

Edit:

I've seen those pictures but take into consideration that your results were taken with your CPU much more overclocked than mine. 5 GHz is hard to compare with 3.8 GHz ... and with CPU/NB *2.7 GHz*. I will have to bump up CPU/NB from 1.36 V to somewhere near 1.4 V to get 2.7 GHz and I bet my results will be a way better than now.


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> And that's what I thought. Thanks for uploading BIOS screenshots!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +Rep
> And that's also a good point though when I buy a kit of 2x8 GB I would rather expect that memory chips come from the same manufacturer.
> And that's probably the issue here. Having 8 GB of RAM was obviously an advantage because they were much more "responsive" (tighter timings, less power consumption).
> Ok! Thanks very much for your posts. I wonder if it would be a good move to return the Tridents to a shop and buy a new set of those Corsairs (grrrrrr I damaged :/).
> Edit:
> I've seen those pictures but take into consideration that your results were taken with your CPU much more overclocked than mine. 5 GHz is hard to compare with 3.8 GHz ... and with CPU/NB *2.7 GHz*. I will have to bump up CPU/NB from 1.36 V to somewhere near 1.4 V to get 2.7 GHz and I bet my results will be a way better than now.


OK here is one with everything at stock auto settings CPU CPU/NB etc. and turbo disabled.

http://s149.beta.photobucket.com/user/ConscriptUKC-X/media/AIDA64/AIDA64-2133Mhz-1_zps0848b477.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

I've run Memtest Pro for 4hrs and it hasn't produced a single error.


----------



## xenomorph113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> enormous pain dude... my condelences... i feel you...
> difference... in a big part, are the sata controllers... no more JMicron in r2.0.... i think a couple more of usb 3.0, and the bios obviously... i do not know if you have to rebuild your raid arrays..... but maybe you have to... just to keep it safe... try to do a backup and then reformat...


good news, didnt have to remake any of my raids, booted back up into windows without issue as well.

well, back to overclocking!


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenomorph113*
> 
> good news, didnt have to remake any of my raids, booted back up into windows without issue as well.
> well, back to overclocking!


glad to hear that... are you using the old sabertooth? or you have a new one...???


----------



## xenomorph113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> glad to hear that... are you using the old sabertooth? or you have a new one...???


ended up getting the rev2 instead of the rev1 ($15 difference) i figured the addition of 2 usb 3.0's and faster e-sata was worth the difference, also 2 more sata 3's on the board (8x sata3 vs 2x sata2 + 6x sata3)

did a fast and dirty overclock to 4.5ghz (22.5 x 200, 1.4v), when i get home from work ill tinker some more and see what this board can do (got my 8120 @5ghz on the rev1 board, hopefully i can make it more stable on the newer board)


----------



## sunset1

I have the rev 1 and given the choice i think you made the right decision. I really like my rev 1 tho.. cant complain a bit. Just hoping support is there for the long run.


----------



## n9nu

Well...I didn't get a chance to see if any of you guys noticed the newest of the Sabertooth boards Asus just released, so I thought I would post an inquiry here and find out. Here is the available information:

It appears that this new 'Gen 3' board has PCI-E 3.0 slots in addition to the older 2.0 slots. This is the only physical difference between the slightly older R2.0 board released a few months ago.

*The 'newest' R2.0 model - ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX/**GEN3* *R2.0 AMD MOTHERBOARD*



You can see the additional heat sink(s) on the motherboard here....one larger one between the two PCI-E 3.0 slots (in black) and the smaller one between the south bridge and memory slots. The south bridge has a larger heat sink as well (the light brown surrounding the black)

Now if we can only get the manufactures to deep six those lonely, unused PCI slots taking up precious space...along with the PS/2 port and firewire.

*Exclusive AMD PCIe 3.0 military-grade motherboard
with TUF cooling technology*


TUF CeraM!X Heatsink Coating Tech. - 50% Larger Area for Heat Dissipation with the Revolutionary Ceramics-coating Technology.
TUF Thermal Radar - Real Time Temp. Detection and Heat Removal.
TUF Components [Alloy Choke, Cap. & MOSFET; Certified by Military- standard] - Certified for Tough Duty.
PCI Express 3.0: the latest graphics standard now on AMD boards.
New DIGI+ Power Control - All-New Digital Power Control for both CPU and DRAM.
USB BIOS Flashback - Easy, Worry-free USB BIOS Flashback with Hardware-based Design.
Windows 8 Ready - Assured Compatibility.

*Specifications*


CPU

AMD AM3+ FX™/Phenom™ II/Athlon™ II/Sempron™ 100 Series Processors
Supports AM3+ 32 nm CPU
Supports CPU up to 8 cores
Supports CPU up to 140 W
AMD Cool 'n' Quiet™ Technology



Chipset

AMD 990FX/SB950Memory

4 x DIMM, Max. 32GB, DDR3 1866/1600/1333/1066 MHz ECC, Non-ECC, Un-buffered Memory
Dual Channel Memory Architecture
* Refer to www.asus.com or user manual for the Memory QVL (Qualified Vendors Lists).
* Due to OS limitation, when installing total memory of 4GB capacity or more, Windows® 32-bit operation system may only recognize less than 3GB. Install a 64-bit Windows® OS when you want to install 4GB or more memory on the motherboard.
* Due to CPU spec., AMD 100 series CPUs support up to DDR3 1066MHz. With ASUS design, this motherboard can support up to DDR3 1333MHz.



Expansion Slots

3 x *PCI Express 3.0 x16 slots* (Dual at x16/x16, triple at x16/x8/x8 mode)* 
1 x PCI Express 2.0 x16 slot (Black at x16)
1 x PCI slot
*When running dual graphics cards, be sure to insert the card in the first and third PCIex16 3.0 slot to get the best performance.Multi-GPU support

Supports NVIDIA® Quad-GPU SLI™ Technology
Supports AMD Quad-GPU CrossFireX™ Technology

Storage

*AMD SB950 controller :*
6 x SATA 6Gb/s port(s), brown
Support Raid 0, 1, 5, 10
*ASMedia® PCIe SATA controller :*
2 x SATA 6Gb/s port(s), gray
2 x eSATA 6Gb/s port(s), red

  Audio

*Realtek® ALC 892 8-Channel High Definition Audio CODEC*
- Supports : Jack-detection, Multi-streaming, Front Panel Jack-retasking

Audio Feature :
- Absolute Pitch 192kHz/ 24-bit True BD Lossless Sound
- Blu-ray audio layer Content Protection
- ASUS Noise Filter
- Optical S/PDIF out port(s) at back panel

USB*ASMedia® USB 3.0 controller :*
2 x USB 3.0/2.0 port(s) (2 at mid-board)
A
4 x USB 3.0/2.0 port(s) (4 at back panel, blue)
*AMD SB950 controller :*
12 x USB 2.0/1.1 port(s) (8 at back panel, , 4 at mid-board)Special Features 

TUF ENGINE! Power Design :

- 8 + 2 Digital Phase Power Design
- TUF Components (Alloy choke, Cap. & MOSFET; Certified by Military-standard)
- ASUS DIGI+ Power Control Utility

Ultimate COOL! Thermal Solution :

- TUF CeraM!X Heatsink Coating Tech.
- TUF Thermal Radar

Safe & Stable! Guardian Angel:

- Anti-Surge
- ESD
- E.S.P: Efficient Switching Power Design

ASUS Exclusive Features :

- DirectKey
- Remote GO!
- USB BIOS Flashback
- MemOK!
- AI Suite II
- Ai Charger+
- Front Panel USB 3.0 Support
- ASUS UEFI BIOS EZ Mode featuring friendly graphics user interface
- Network iControl
- USB 3.0 Boost



I got a somewhat reliable word that these boards are ready to ship to the various resellers, however, they won't be officially out for a few more weeks I was told.

Tim


----------



## Walking Dude

So I take it, NO one has issue getting the realtek audio to work on this board?????

Asus so far is no help!


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n9nu*
> 
> Well...I didn't get a chance to see if any of you guys noticed the newest of the Sabertooth boards Asus just released, so I thought I would post an inquiry here and find out. Here is the available information:
> 
> It appears that this new 'Gen 3' board has PCI-E 3.0 slots in addition to the older 2.0 slots. This is the only physical difference between the slightly older R2.0 board released a few months ago.
> 
> *The 'newest' R2.0 model - ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX/**GEN3* *R2.0 AMD MOTHERBOARD*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the additional heat sink(s) on the motherboard here....one larger one between the two PCI-E 3.0 slots (in black) and the smaller one between the south bridge and memory slots. The south bridge has a larger heat sink as well (the light brown surrounding the black)
> 
> Now if we can only get the manufactures to deep six those lonely, unused PCI slots taking up precious space...along with the PS/2 port and firewire.
> 
> *Exclusive AMD PCIe 3.0 military-grade motherboard
> 
> with TUF cooling technology*
> 
> 
> TUF CeraM!X Heatsink Coating Tech. - 50% Larger Area for Heat Dissipation with the Revolutionary Ceramics-coating Technology.
> TUF Thermal Radar - Real Time Temp. Detection and Heat Removal.
> TUF Components [Alloy Choke, Cap. & MOSFET; Certified by Military- standard] - Certified for Tough Duty.
> PCI Express 3.0: the latest graphics standard now on AMD boards.
> New DIGI+ Power Control - All-New Digital Power Control for both CPU and DRAM.
> USB BIOS Flashback - Easy, Worry-free USB BIOS Flashback with Hardware-based Design.
> Windows 8 Ready - Assured Compatibility.
> 
> *Specifications*
> 
> 
> CPUAMD AM3+ FX™/Phenom™ II/Athlon™ II/Sempron™ 100 Series Processors
> 
> Supports AM3+ 32 nm CPU
> 
> Supports CPU up to 8 cores
> 
> Supports CPU up to 140 W
> 
> AMD Cool 'n' Quiet™ Technology
> Chipset
> AMD 990FX/SB950Memory4 x DIMM, Max. 32GB, DDR3 1866/1600/1333/1066 MHz ECC, Non-ECC, Un-buffered Memory
> 
> Dual Channel Memory Architecture
> * Refer to www.asus.com or user manual for the Memory QVL (Qualified Vendors Lists).
> 
> * Due to OS limitation, when installing total memory of 4GB capacity or more, Windows® 32-bit operation system may only recognize less than 3GB. Install a 64-bit Windows® OS when you want to install 4GB or more memory on the motherboard.
> 
> * Due to CPU spec., AMD 100 series CPUs support up to DDR3 1066MHz. With ASUS design, this motherboard can support up to DDR3 1333MHz.
> Expansion Slots3 x *PCI Express 3.0 x16 slots* (Dual at x16/x16, triple at x16/x8/x8 mode)*
> 
> 1 x PCI Express 2.0 x16 slot (Black at x16)
> 
> 1 x PCI slot
> *When running dual graphics cards, be sure to insert the card in the first and third PCIex16 3.0 slot to get the best performance.Multi-GPU support
> Supports NVIDIA® Quad-GPU SLI™ Technology
> 
> Supports AMD Quad-GPU CrossFireX™ Technology
> Storage*AMD SB950 controller :*
> 
> 6 x SATA 6Gb/s port(s), brown
> 
> Support Raid 0, 1, 5, 10
> *ASMedia® PCIe SATA controller :*
> 
> 2 x SATA 6Gb/s port(s), gray
> 
> 2 x eSATA 6Gb/s port(s), red
> Audio*Realtek® ALC 892 8-Channel High Definition Audio CODEC*
> 
> - Supports : Jack-detection, Multi-streaming, Front Panel Jack-retasking
> Audio Feature :
> 
> - Absolute Pitch 192kHz/ 24-bit True BD Lossless Sound
> 
> - Blu-ray audio layer Content Protection
> 
> - ASUS Noise Filter
> 
> - Optical S/PDIF out port(s) at back panel
> USB*ASMedia® USB 3.0 controller :*
> 
> 2 x USB 3.0/2.0 port(s) (2 at mid-board)
> 
> A
> 
> 4 x USB 3.0/2.0 port(s) (4 at back panel, blue)
> *AMD SB950 controller :*
> 
> 12 x USB 2.0/1.1 port(s) (8 at back panel, , 4 at mid-board)Special Features
> TUF ENGINE! Power Design :
> 
> - 8 + 2 Digital Phase Power Design
> 
> - TUF Components (Alloy choke, Cap. & MOSFET; Certified by Military-standard)
> 
> - ASUS DIGI+ Power Control Utility
> 
> Ultimate COOL! Thermal Solution :
> 
> - TUF CeraM!X Heatsink Coating Tech.
> 
> - TUF Thermal Radar
> 
> Safe & Stable! Guardian Angel:
> 
> - Anti-Surge
> 
> - ESD
> 
> - E.S.P: Efficient Switching Power Design
> 
> ASUS Exclusive Features :
> 
> - DirectKey
> 
> - Remote GO!
> 
> - USB BIOS Flashback
> 
> - MemOK!
> 
> - AI Suite II
> 
> - Ai Charger+
> 
> - Front Panel USB 3.0 Support
> 
> - ASUS UEFI BIOS EZ Mode featuring friendly graphics user interface
> 
> - Network iControl
> 
> - USB 3.0 Boost
> 
> I got a somewhat reliable word that these boards are ready to ship to the various resellers, however, they won't be officially out for a few more weeks I was told.
> 
> i am so getting one...


----------



## badpilot

Hi guys.

Little update here









FX 6300 running smooth on my ST 990FX R2.0. Did a bit of overclocking. it's running 4.1 Ghz now

Difficult to choose weather to OC thru bios, or thru software.

CPU temps are nice, running BF3 all on high, temps reach 55 degrees C.

Fans in : 2 x 140 mm front, 1 x 120 mm side (GPU card), and 1 x 120 mm top.
Fans out : 2 x 120 mm back (push / pull H50, 1 x 120 mm top

My old Phenom X4 965 BE 3.8 GHZ ran all 4 cores at 100%. temps went up to 58 / 60 degrees C.

The FX 6300 running 401 GHZ goes up to 60%, reaching temps up to 55 degrees C.

Still have some questions.

* I'm running the 1201 bios now. But there's a new bios out.1302. All is running pretty fine now on Windows 8 64 bit. Switch to 1302 or leave it at 1201?

* I installed 4 x 4 GB Corsair XMS 1600 Mhz. But in my bios it shows as 1333 Mhz on auto. Can I change this to 1600 on manual without running into trouble?

* I'm still running my old asus 5870. Shall I get a second 5870 (cheap), or go for a single ATI 7950 (expensive). maybe someone around with a crossfire set up?

Thanks for any replies


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walking Dude*
> 
> So I take it, NO one has issue getting the realtek audio to work on this board?????
> 
> Asus so far is no help!


my friend is having some trouble with his sound switching back and forth between speakers and headphones. ASUS told him to clear the CMOS, but of course it didn't work. he is going to rma it


----------



## sunset1

@ walkingdude.. sup bud.. I think lauri ( hope i spelled that right.. ) had sound issues a while back but downloaded the realtek drivers not from asus but from a different source.. got it working. Sorry i cant be more help if i remember the link ill update here.


----------



## wolvers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenomorph113*
> 
> so i just had a chipset block leak over the weekend, took out my sabertooth, very sad and what not.
> quick question, any major differences between my old Rev1 board versus the new Rev2?
> do you think i would need to re-create my raid configs from going from a rev1 to a rev2? i believe its the same chipset and raid controller


What chipset block are you using on your Saber? I was thinking of getting one for mine but have struggled to find one. Most importantly I want it to cover the VRMs.


----------



## cez4r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> downloaded the realtek drivers not from asus but from a different source.. got it working. Sorry i cant be more help if i remember the link ill update here.


http://www.station-drivers.com/page/realtek_audio.htm

Look for the section called _"REALTEK High Definition Audio (Azalia ALC8xx/2xx/6xx Serie)(Drivers)"_

Merry Christmas to all


----------



## zubzero689

why are all the people out there think that 55c is low for temps i have ran my stuff tho so much and never went above 45c on the cpu and 40c on my gpu my vrm might get to 50c but that is rare i know i keep my room under 16c but that shouldnt be that big of a deal and my waterloop doesnt have these huge 480mm rads x2 and stuff you put both my rads togather and you get a 360 i have 1 120mm and 1 240mm and when my comp is just idle its 25-27c for cpu and 22c for the gpu now thos i think are low temps


----------



## ceaze one

Periods, you don't know how to use them.


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceaze one*
> 
> Periods, you don't know how to use them.


. ^^ agree. I got lost reading that.


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zubzero689*
> 
> why are all the people out there think that 55c is low for temps i have ran my stuff tho so much and never went above 45c on the cpu and 40c on my gpu my vrm might get to 50c but that is rare i know i keep my room under 16c but that shouldnt be that big of a deal and my waterloop doesnt have these huge 480mm rads x2 and stuff you put both my rads togather and you get a 360 i have 1 120mm and 1 240mm and when my comp is just idle its 25-27c for cpu and 22c for the gpu now thos i think are low temps


Your post is pointless, you can't possibly compare your temps with other peoples systems, compared with my temps yours are high, my cores are currently sitting at 5C and under load my CPU hits around 25c the VRM goes to 25/26c, the NB 27/28c and the board 25/27c, GPU's hit 40c with heavy gaming the room temp is 20c.


----------



## Walking Dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cez4r*
> 
> http://www.station-drivers.com/page/realtek_audio.htm
> Look for the section called _"REALTEK High Definition Audio (Azalia ALC8xx/2xx/6xx Serie)(Drivers)"_
> Merry Christmas to all


another thought......these are HD audio drivers, but I am using analog altecs............could that be the issue? wouldn't think so, since the realtek software, shows analog outlets?


----------



## Krusher33

Fan controls... how do you guys do it? I can't find it in AI Suite and SpeedFan is not working for me.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Fan controls... how do you guys do it? I can't find it in AI Suite and SpeedFan is not working for me.


i use a fan controller, always have.
i try to keep as least as possible running off the MB-but that is just me.

-dimwit-


----------



## Krusher33

Might have to be part of my next purchase.


----------



## zubzero689

I have a fan controller as well but I also use the MB. In AI Suite it is in the thermal radar section then there is cha and cpu click on one enter settings and there is where you can control your fans. Its not as good as a fan controller but when you have 13 fan like i do and dont have a budget for more then one fan controller you make due. I mostly only see my fans go from 2000 rpm to 1100 rpm with this so yea.
Hope that help if not sorry


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walking Dude*
> 
> another thought......these are HD audio drivers, but I am using analog altecs............could that be the issue? wouldn't think so, since the realtek software, shows analog outlets?


Hey WD. The drivers are right, you have an HD audio chip, even though you may use analog audio out in lieu of digital audio out, the driver is still for what is considered an HD audio chipset.

I don't use the onboard audio myself, I have an aftermarket sound card, and always have since the first sound blaster audio card came out way back when. Sorry I can't give more help troubleshooting other than what I suggested previously. Selecting the proper output type within the Realtek software being the most common issue I have seen. Good Luck!


----------



## dcmprince

My processor is the Zambezi Fx-8150 Validation link
I have completely reset everything back to stock,
Would like to know what volts i should use for the ram and the cpu when clocking to remain stable... i have managed 5ghz without inc the voltage but i know that i should @ them speeds... but the ram wont budge without hanging in the boot


----------



## Walking Dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*
> 
> Hey WD. The drivers are right, you have an HD audio chip, even though you may use analog audio out in lieu of digital audio out, the driver is still for what is considered an HD audio chipset.
> I don't use the onboard audio myself, I have an aftermarket sound card, and always have since the first sound blaster audio card came out way back when. Sorry I can't give more help troubleshooting other than what I suggested previously. Selecting the proper output type within the Realtek software being the most common issue I have seen. Good Luck!


Problem is, with 2 HD 6950 vid cards, I have no open slots for a add on audio card.....so guess I am hosed. Crap!


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walking Dude*
> 
> Problem is, with 2 HD 6950 vid cards, I have no open slots for a add on audio card.....so guess I am hosed. Crap!


not true dude... i have 2 HD 6970 and im using the last pci-e slot (the black one i believe) for a sound card


----------



## Walking Dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> not true dude... i have 2 HD 6970 and im using the last pci-e slot (the black one i believe) for a sound card


where is that located? the brown one located at the very bottom?


----------



## Walking Dude

well, went and bought a 150 THX sound card........have to take it back.....its PCIe, and that slot is covered by the first video card.

Now I need to find a PCI sound card.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walking Dude*
> 
> well, went and bought a 150 THX sound card........have to take it back.....its PCIe, and that slot is covered by the first video card.
> Now I need to find a PCI sound card.


dont return it... look at this pic...


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walking Dude*
> 
> Problem is, with 2 HD 6950 vid cards, I have no open slots for a add on audio card.....so guess I am hosed. Crap!


I run my gpus in the tan one and my sound card in the brown one at the bottom.


----------



## Walking Dude

first one was the small pcie....the tan little one between the sound card slots.......its covered.....i got a pci card......the slot is covered by the 2nd vid card.....so....need a pcie 16x card....the one i got when i returned the other one, fits the slot between the red circle and the green circle......need to find one to fit the brown one at bottom.....best buy dont have one unless i go the usb route.........


----------



## Citra

pcie x1 works in pcie x16 if that's what you're saying.


----------



## Krusher33

I think he's saying he received a PCI card and needs to get a PCIe card.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> dont return it... look at this pic...


if it is possible i would use the 2nd pciex16 slot ( also black, however it is pciex4 ) as using the last slot can impede your crossfire lanes, as i understand it

here is a diagram explaining it better then i can

http://techreport.com/review/21019/bulldozer-mobos-from-asus-and-msi-sabertooth-990fx-990fxa-gd80


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walking Dude*
> 
> well, went and bought a 150 THX sound card........have to take it back.....its PCIe, and that slot is covered by the first video card.
> Now I need to find a PCI sound card.


You don't have to get a sound card. There are also external audio interfaces that offer better options, not just for playback, but also recording. It's very handy to have the volume control right on top of the desk. Most of these run off usb interface. And if you're a real audiophile, you have the option of balanced trs , midi, or digital outputs, for monitors or connecting to other audio devices.


----------



## Krusher33

Seems to me on board sound has gotten so good that it's hard to tell the difference. Of course it might just be because I'm getting older?


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Seems to me on board sound has gotten so good that it's hard to tell the difference. Of course it might just be because I'm getting older?


Had issues with sound on last 2 mobos, including sabertooth. Depends on ur idea of quality. High quality audio is the difference between life and death during fps gameplay, listening for footsteps. lol. Most anything dedicated is going to be better than integrated.


----------



## badpilot

I can't get my ram to 1600 mhz in my bios.

It's on auto, and it stays on 1333.

If I put it on 1600 mhz in my bios, the system wont start up. and restarting it, will show me the tekst, overclocking failed

I ran memtest for an hour, no errors found

It shows 1333 during boot up.



Both CPU-Z and AI SUITE show 667 (isch) mhz

Edit:

When checking DRAM voltage in bios, (1.501V), I disabled EPU power saving mode (something similar)

I read somewhere that disabling this, would get my RAM to it's 1600 mhz.

Now I started up, and during boot it showed 1440 mhz????

CPU-Z shows 722.4 mhz now, but AI SUITE still shows 667 mhz???



Any comments on this?


----------



## reaperUK

Hey all, regarding the previous posts on soundcards, i have a Asus Zonar dx2 in my setup, is it possible to connect my front headphone jacks to the soundcard?


----------



## TwiggLe

So ever since I switched my PC case and updated my BIOS to 1604 (Planning on getting an FX8320 or 8350 in the next month or 2.)
I haven't been able to get my 960T to unlock the other 2 cores ( I used to run it stable 24/7 as a hex @4.2ghz) .

I also was previously able to get to about 4.3ghz as a quad stable.

Now if I even try to go above 4.2ghz no matter what settings I do my PC either doesn't go past post or locks up loading windows.









I'm fine with 4.2ghz on my 960T for now but still odd that this is happening...


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwiggLe*
> 
> So ever since I switched my PC case and updated my BIOS to 1604 (Planning on getting an FX8320 or 8350 in the next month or 2.)
> I haven't been able to get my 960T to unlock the other 2 cores ( I used to run it stable 24/7 as a hex @4.2ghz) .
> I also was previously able to get to about 4.3ghz as a quad stable.
> Now if I even try to go above 4.2ghz no matter what settings I do my PC either doesn't go past post or locks up loading windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm fine with 4.2ghz on my 960T for now but still odd that this is happening...


why dont you lower the FSB and raise the cpu multiplier??? easier


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badpilot*
> 
> I can't get my ram to 1600 mhz in my bios.
> 
> It's on auto, and it stays on 1333.
> 
> If I put it on 1600 mhz in my bios, the system wont start up. and restarting it, will show me the tekst, overclocking failed
> 
> I ran memtest for an hour, no errors found
> 
> It shows 1333 during boot up.
> 
> 
> 
> Both CPU-Z and AI SUITE show 667 (isch) mhz
> 
> Edit:
> 
> When checking DRAM voltage in bios, (1.501V), I disabled EPU power saving mode (something similar)
> 
> I read somewhere that disabling this, would get my RAM to it's 1600 mhz.
> 
> Now I started up, and during boot it showed 1440 mhz????
> 
> CPU-Z shows 722.4 mhz now, but AI SUITE still shows 667 mhz???
> 
> 
> 
> Any comments on this?


You probably need to manually set the timings right to hit 1600. And I don't doubt that when you do, AI Suite will say 800mhz even if you're at 1650 or something.


----------



## TwiggLe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> why dont you lower the FSB and raise the cpu multiplier??? easier


Tried that either way I can't get passed 4.2ghz.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badpilot*
> 
> I can't get my ram to 1600 mhz in my bios.
> It's on auto, and it stays on 1333.
> If I put it on 1600 mhz in my bios, the system wont start up. and restarting it, will show me the tekst, overclocking failed
> I ran memtest for an hour, no errors found
> It shows 1333 during boot up.
> Both CPU-Z and AI SUITE show 667 (isch) mhz
> Edit:
> When checking DRAM voltage in bios, (1.501V), I disabled EPU power saving mode (something similar)
> I read somewhere that disabling this, would get my RAM to it's 1600 mhz.
> Now I started up, and during boot it showed 1440 mhz????
> CPU-Z shows 722.4 mhz now, but AI SUITE still shows 667 mhz???
> Any comments on this?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> You probably need to manually set the timings right to hit 1600. And I don't doubt that when you do, AI Suite will say 800mhz even if you're at 1650 or something.


agreed you probably have to look up the correct timings for the ram and manually set them


----------



## hotrod717

Anyone know when rev3/ gen 3 is going to be available?


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Anyone know when rev3/ gen 3 is going to be available?


i hope sometime soon... btw... how did you achieve those timings on your ram??? how much voltage and blah blah blah... im running stock 2133mhz with stock timings 9-11-10-27 1T


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> i hope sometime soon... btw... how did you achieve those timings on your ram??? how much voltage and blah blah blah... im running stock 2133mhz with stock timings 9-11-10-27 1T


Which timings? Been playing with 3 sets of ram. My sammy's, ripjaw 2133's, and last , but not least my "new" ripjaw 1600's. My new black ripjaw 1600's oc like a champ, so there @ 7-9-8-24-1t/ 1936mhz/ 1.65v. Stock for those is 6-8-6-24-2t 1.5v. Kryton has gotten over 2133 with the same model. Not sure if I'll get that, but the tight timings are sweet regardless!


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaperUK*
> 
> Hey all, regarding the previous posts on soundcards, i have a Asus Zonar dx2 in my setup, is it possible to connect my front headphone jacks to the soundcard?


It does not have a connector for front panel audio output/mic, either HD or AC97'. You could possibly manufacture your own cable to connect for the rear panel headphone out to internal front panel audio.


----------



## warpuck

If you have been checking out this thread and have not decided to go for a rev 2 amd sabertooth + a fx 8150

USA

http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=70245&vpn=Sabertooth%20990FX%20%26%20FX%2D8150&manufacture=Bundle%20Deals&promoid=1033

expires 02 jan 13

CA

http://www.ncix.ca/products/?sku=70245&vpn=Sabertooth%20990FX%20%26%20FX%2D8150&manufacture=Bundle%20Deals&promoid=1033

expires 02 jan 13


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> Added a section of the op for windows 8 drivers for the R1 that are missing from the asus download page, got th JMicron drivers posted, and i uploaded the asmedia driver, if anyone else can think of any other missing drivers send me a PM


Thanks for these drivers, can't understand why Asus doesn't have them posted.


----------



## Mega Man

been kicking my self because i didnt so this ... and the cpu cut out for my case is barely not big enough.......... can anyone get the length ( in mm ) for the vrm heatsink from center of screw to center of screw ***but straight not diagonal [screws are offset and i just want a length]*** ? ( preferably on the R2.0 ) thanks so much. if not ill head to microcenter * so lazy *







:thumb: i am attempting to get a manufacture to make a vrm water block for us ~~~~~


----------



## westnyle

This board sucks.... I have an annoying Firewire problem.... Getting this crazy static whinning cpu noise out of my firewire interface...

I had it way way less on my X58a UD3r...

Seriously thinking of rma'ing this board over it.


----------



## wolvers

Anyone know where the TRFC RAM setting is in the Saber BIOS? I think it should in number of 'cycles' but the only thing I can find that is close with it's higher values is in 'ns'.


----------



## Mistral

TRFC is the Row Refresh Cycle Time and on the Sabertooth it is in nanoseconds, The time will vary according to what ram you are using, you could put it on auto and see what time it sets or in the Tools menu under ASUS SPD Information.


----------



## wolvers

That's what I thought it was. Auto sets it to 300ns. I tried 160ns but it caused instability. For my Samsung 30nm RAM, lots of people are running under 150.

From OcUK;
Quote:


> Yeah tune TRFC down. It is one of the more important settings. Try 148,121,114,96 and finally 88.


Edit; do you mean 'DRAM REF cycle time'? That seems to be the only possible one. Unless on Intel boards it's a totally different value.


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> That's what I thought it was. Auto sets it to 300ns. I tried 160ns but it caused instability. For my Samsung 30nm RAM, lots of people are running under 150.
> From OcUK;
> Edit; do you mean 'DRAM REF cycle time'? That seems to be the only possible one. Unless on Intel boards it's a totally different value.


That's right TRFC is the Dram Refresh Cycle Time, it specifies the number of DRAM clocks that must elapse before a command can be issued to the DIMMs after a DRAM cell refresh, it can be displayed as clock cycles or in ns. The TRFC is very important on Intel motherboards but not so much on AMD. The lower the ram frequency the less clock cycles that are needed, so it depends on the speed of the ram you are using.


----------



## westnyle

I got told by the asus rep today word for word "Why did you not buy the R2.0 board" lol.... They have this push on the r2.0 when gigabyte actually just replaces the board with the next revision.... this is really demeaning for a company offering 5 year warranty for a product they are already telling me to replace beacuse of their loud firewire noise problem... Zalman LQ 310 installation going down right now and ill try to get this thing OC'd higher.


----------



## wolvers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> That's right TRFC is the Dram Refresh Cycle Time, it specifies the number of DRAM clocks that must elapse before a command can be issued to the DIMMs after a DRAM cell refresh, it can be displayed as clock cycles or in ns. The TRFC is very important on Intel motherboards but not so much on AMD. The lower the ram frequency the less clock cycles that are needed, so it depends on the speed of the ram you are using.


Great, you're confirming what I was thinking may be the case. Any idea how to convert cycles to ns, or is it the same? I'm running 2133Mhz and on auto TRFC is set to 300ns.

Interesting what you're saying about TRFC on Intel boards, but surely if it's a RAM setting wouldn't it benefit the RAM in whatever system? Or is it more mem controller specific?


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolvers*
> 
> Great, you're confirming what I was thinking may be the case. Any idea how to convert cycles to ns, or is it the same? I'm running 2133Mhz and on auto TRFC is set to 300ns.
> Interesting what you're saying about TRFC on Intel boards, but surely if it's a RAM setting wouldn't it benefit the RAM in whatever system? Or is it more mem controller specific?


I'm currently running my ram at 2133Mhz and my refresh is also 300ns. The more slots used and higher memory capacities the longer the refresh rate needs to be. JEDEC specification for 8gig of ram is 350ns. The refresh time has to be increased as the speed and density of the ram chips increases, if the refresh time is to short you can experience data corruption and if it is to long then there is a performance hit but with increased stability. If I remember correctly the memory controller decides the refresh rate and on Intel systems it's a little more critical. There is a formula for converting nanoseconds into clock cycles but I can't remember it I'm getting old. A nanosecond is one billionth of a second ( 0.000000001 ). 300ns is pretty typical of modern high density ram modules, older ram DDR2 and DDR1 etc. had much shorter refresh times.


----------



## wolvers

Nice one cheers. You get rep for that.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevilDriver*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> I would keep a close eye on those chokes since you don't have them cooled any more.
> I know there is some one else that water cooled the mosfets and managed to keep the chokes passively cooled with the stock heatsink.


i know this is an old quote ( page 213 ) but i am about to cool my vrms and from what i have read 1) the chokes are not connected to the heat sink and 2) chokes usually do not need cooling is this accurate or is Vartok correct in which they DO need cooling ?


----------



## warpuck

mega check this out www.ehow.com/facts_7728058_resistance-copper-wire.html
I would say that more heat is generated in the hysteresis of the magnetic material than the windings in the copper wire in a choke. Hysteresis heat varies with the AC component of the current flowing. The simple calculation is DC resistance this gets more complicated as a frequency increases, the circulating current also increases (BEMF). To much current it becomes an expensive fuse. It is probable that the VR will fail 1st. The radiating heat from the choke can cause the temps of the VR to increase and at some point can cause thermal runaway. As long as the cans on the choke are electrically neutral have them touch the the heat sink could not hurt.
Now I have a headache from thinking about this.


----------



## THC Butterz

havent been on here the last few days, but has anyone else notesed the new sabertooth 990fx gen3 R2 , Im glad i didnt upgrade to the R2 right away, the gen 3 looks like it might actually be worth the upgrade!
Proof: http://support.asus.com/faq/List.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=SABERTOOTH%20990FX/GEN3%20R2.0&p=1

reference: http://technewspedia.com/asus-announces-new-sabertooth-990fxgen3-card-r2-0/


----------



## THC Butterz

OP edited. to include our R2 and future gen3 R2 bretherin.. check it out !


----------



## xenomorph113

i think i have a good idea on what to do with my (now deceased) sabertooth r1, i got the idea when i blew it up actually, i was attempting to install a SB chipset block, unfortunately i had a seep from a fitting which proved to be catastrophic on first boot.

lesson learned, but idea gained, a few of the guys here make custom blocks, im thinking of donating my Rev1 board to have some custom VRM/NB/SB chipset blocks made. just wondering if anyone else would be interested in something like this, im always seeing intel guys getting motherboard chipset blocks while us AMD guys are left out in the cold (or in this case out in the hot)

i figure if we could get a few people it may make it cheaper to get 5-10 blocks made as opposed to just one at a time.

let me know what you guys think, im 90% sure im still gonna go ahead and try to get a custom set of blocks made (if the price is tolerable)


----------



## shampoo911

ok so im trying to contact the latin american asus call center in mexico, but something is wrong with the phone number.. as it is a 001800 number (as far as i know, it is toll free)..

is there any number, where i could call, without being toll free?

EDIT: in america... just in case...


----------



## dixson01974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> ok so im trying to contact the latin american asus call center in mexico, but something is wrong with the phone number.. as it is a 001800 number (as far as i know, it is toll free)..
> is there any number, where i could call, without being toll free?
> EDIT: in america... just in case...


USA number is 1-812-282-2787.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenomorph113*
> 
> i think i have a good idea on what to do with my (now deceased) sabertooth r1, i got the idea when i blew it up actually, i was attempting to install a SB chipset block, unfortunately i had a seep from a fitting which proved to be catastrophic on first boot.
> 
> lesson learned, but idea gained, a few of the guys here make custom blocks, im thinking of donating my Rev1 board to have some custom VRM/NB/SB chipset blocks made. just wondering if anyone else would be interested in something like this, im always seeing intel guys getting motherboard chipset blocks while us AMD guys are left out in the cold (or in this case out in the hot)
> 
> i figure if we could get a few people it may make it cheaper to get 5-10 blocks made as opposed to just one at a time.
> 
> let me know what you guys think, im 90% sure im still gonna go ahead and try to get a custom set of blocks made (if the price is tolerable)


I would be if the price is right and the maker is reputable.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenomorph113*
> 
> i think i have a good idea on what to do with my (now deceased) sabertooth r1, i got the idea when i blew it up actually, i was attempting to install a SB chipset block, unfortunately i had a seep from a fitting which proved to be catastrophic on first boot.
> lesson learned, but idea gained, a few of the guys here make custom blocks, im thinking of donating my Rev1 board to have some custom VRM/NB/SB chipset blocks made. just wondering if anyone else would be interested in something like this, im always seeing intel guys getting motherboard chipset blocks while us AMD guys are left out in the cold (or in this case out in the hot)
> i figure if we could get a few people it may make it cheaper to get 5-10 blocks made as opposed to just one at a time.
> let me know what you guys think, im 90% sure im still gonna go ahead and try to get a custom set of blocks made (if the price is tolerable)


count me in ~!~~!! depending on price~ can you also tell me the distance between the screws for the backplate for the vrms

not directly center to center of screws but length wise between them if they were in a straight line ( dont go diagonally across them )

Thanks so much, let me know a price pretty much >100 per block i would be ok with . ( all copper though please >:O)


----------



## philke

hello you can count me in for those blocks.


----------



## philke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philke*
> 
> hello you can count me in for those blocks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenomorph113*
> 
> i think i have a good idea on what to do with my (now deceased) sabertooth r1, i got the idea when i blew it up actually, i was attempting to install a SB chipset block, unfortunately i had a seep from a fitting which proved to be catastrophic on first boot.
> lesson learned, but idea gained, a few of the guys here make custom blocks, im thinking of donating my Rev1 board to have some custom VRM/NB/SB chipset blocks made. just wondering if anyone else would be interested in something like this, im always seeing intel guys getting motherboard chipset blocks while us AMD guys are left out in the cold (or in this case out in the hot)
> i figure if we could get a few people it may make it cheaper to get 5-10 blocks made as opposed to just one at a time.
> let me know what you guys think, im 90% sure im still gonna go ahead and try to get a custom set of blocks made (if the price is tolerable)


You can count me in for those blocks.


----------



## THC Butterz

depending on cost i might be in too on those blocks, also workmanship, matiriels etc


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenomorph113*
> 
> i think i have a good idea on what to do with my (now deceased) sabertooth r1, i got the idea when i blew it up actually, i was attempting to install a SB chipset block, unfortunately i had a seep from a fitting which proved to be catastrophic on first boot.
> lesson learned, but idea gained, a few of the guys here make custom blocks, im thinking of donating my Rev1 board to have some custom VRM/NB/SB chipset blocks made. just wondering if anyone else would be interested in something like this, im always seeing intel guys getting motherboard chipset blocks while us AMD guys are left out in the cold (or in this case out in the hot)
> i figure if we could get a few people it may make it cheaper to get 5-10 blocks made as opposed to just one at a time.
> let me know what you guys think, im 90% sure im still gonna go ahead and try to get a custom set of blocks made (if the price is tolerable)


I would be interested, but I think the over seas shipping (technically: over ocean) would be to much for my wallet...

But I love the idea, and if it's not too much trouble: could you supply me with a clear picture of heatsink-less VRM and NB area with good measurements regarding the mounting holes?

Good luck with!


----------



## SwishaMane

I would be interested in a NB / VRM block, but these boards might have too much stuff in the way for the SB to be connected.


----------



## xenomorph113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> I would be interested, but I think the over seas shipping (technically: over ocean) would be to much for my wallet...
> But I love the idea, and if it's not too much trouble: could you supply me with a clear picture of heatsink-less VRM and NB area with good measurements regarding the mounting holes?
> Good luck with!


Ill grab my camera and snap some shots for you, unfortunately i don't have a caliper or anything good to get exact mm/.0001in measurement


----------



## xenomorph113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> I would be interested, but I think the over seas shipping (technically: over ocean) would be to much for my wallet...
> But I love the idea, and if it's not too much trouble: could you supply me with a clear picture of heatsink-less VRM and NB area with good measurements regarding the mounting holes?
> Good luck with!


alrighty, here are some shots of the naked NB and VRMs

Note: "vertical/horizontal" are referring to an upright ATX placement of the board. also these measurements are taken with a ruler and a tape measure so they may not be 100% 'dead on' accurate

first pic is the NB, holes are 40mm apart on the horizontal 32mm apart on the vertical


next we have the VRMs, holes are 10mm apart on the horizontal and 135mm apart on the vertical



lastly we have the rear of the board without the mounting plate



and i'll toss a few extra pics up here too



if you need any more pics or measurements let me know


----------



## Mega Man

http://www.enzotechnology.com/contact_us.htm
enzotech seems may take custom orders.....

edit just to verify the chokes do not have any form of cooling correct:?


----------



## xenomorph113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> these boards might have too much stuff in the way for the SB to be connected.


you are right about that, i put a swiftech MCW30 on mine, pretty much the only reason it even works is because i have a ref gtx670 so its short enough not to interfere


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








also anyone tried using a corsair ram cooler to cool there VRMS?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Krusher33

I promised a long, long, long, long time ago that I'd post pics of my Sabertooth. Here it is. Kinda dusty.










Spoiler: It's folding in the Team Competition in the AMD GPU category.


----------



## Liselotte

Quick question guys. Just bought myself this board today. When transferring all the other components over, especially the OS drive (Crucial M4), do I need to do a wipe or will the motherboard accept the drive and I'll just update the driver?

Many thanks.


----------



## nX3NTY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liselotte*
> 
> Quick question guys. Just bought myself this board today. When transferring all the other components over, especially the OS drive (Crucial M4), do I need to do a wipe or will the motherboard accept the drive and I'll just update the driver?
> Many thanks.


You mean transferring the OS over without reinstalling it? There is a method to do it:

1. Changed IDE driver to generic in Device Manager
2. Uninstall relevant drivers
3. Removed all relevant devices from Device Manager
4. Safe boot
5. Run driver cleaner
6. Change to new hardware
7. Boot to Windows
8. Let Windows do automatic driver install on device
9. Updated all drivers to latest version


----------



## Liselotte

Do I do this on the old MB or on the new MB?

Edit: nvm, understood your step 6


----------



## farscaper

Hello guy's.

So i bought this board in the middle of last year 5/7/2012, and I'm now getting around to building my rig. Now i noticed on the box a sticker that says AMD firmware ready for fx processors. Now i don't see anywhere on the box which bios version that would be. I also don't have a compatible or spare AMD cpu laying around. I only have the fx 8350.

SO my question is. Do you guys think i'm going to need to get a low end cpu to update the bios? for the fx 8350.

My guess the bios version supports up the early FX processors, not the 8350.

Side note ...

In case i need another cpu for the update, i was planning to get the AMD sempron ,145 2.8ghz. Now i got g.skill dd3 1600 coming in. Will the ram clock down to accommodate the cpu?


----------



## Mistral

If you look at your board above where it says MemOK there is a white sticker with a bar code, the last 4 digits on the sticker are the BIOS revision, e.g. 0813. If it supports Bulldozer CPU's it should boot with a Piledrover.


----------



## farscaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> If you look at your board above where it says MemOK there is a white sticker with a bar code, the last 4 digits on the sticker are the BIOS revision, e.g. 0813. If it supports Bulldozer CPU's it should boot with a Piledrover.


If i read that correctly it said Bios ver .0705 dated 9/16/2011. So meaning its not updated accommodate the FX cores?.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenomorph113*
> 
> Ill grab my camera and snap some shots for you, unfortunately i don't have a caliper or anything good to get exact mm/.0001in measurement


Bugger, any ruler would do (even an inch one







)


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenomorph113*
> 
> alrighty, here are some shots of the naked NB and VRMs
> Note: "vertical/horizontal" are referring to an upright ATX placement of the board. also these measurements are taken with a ruler and a tape measure so they may not be 100% 'dead on' accurate
> first pic is the NB, holes are 40mm apart on the horizontal 32mm apart on the vertical
> 
> next we have the VRMs, holes are 10mm apart on the horizontal and 135mm apart on the vertical
> 
> lastly we have the rear of the board without the mounting plate
> 
> and i'll toss a few extra pics up here too
> 
> 
> if you need any more pics or measurements let me know


Thanks a bunch!
+rep


----------



## Dimaggio1103

So got my 990FX r2 board. Have some questions, IF Im gonna be using offset voltage for a 4.9GHz OC what else do I need to enable to keep the CPU underclocked when not on load?


----------



## Raephen

I know there's a vrm/nb waterblock for the Gigabyte UD& 990FX series, but the mounting holes just seemed a bir off to me... I just have to compare them more with the measurements I have now and contact EK-cooling to be sure


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimaggio1103*
> 
> So got my 990FX r2 board. Have some questions, IF Im gonna be using offset voltage for a 4.9GHz OC what else do I need to enable to keep the CPU underclocked when not on load?


CnQ?


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> CnQ?


I have the Sabertooth r2 version with 1301 bios.
My cpu runs at the overclocked speed 24/7 I have CNQ enabled.
It simply wont drop below full speed.
On my old mobo, which was a biostar 990fxe CNQ worked just fine.
I've tried the last 3 bios from Asus website. None of them will let my cpu downclock.


----------



## badpilot

Did you try reset bios to factoy settings?

There's so many things in the bios to tweak (and fook up lol







)


----------



## Raephen

Ithink I know what you mean, and I guess you run an overclock mix of fsb / multi settings?

CnQ didn't function properly with my R1 board when running a multi/fsb mix.

Multiplier only, and it works the way it should.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> I have the Sabertooth r2 version with 1301 bios.
> My cpu runs at the overclocked speed 24/7 I have CNQ enabled.
> It simply wont drop below full speed.
> On my old mobo, which was a biostar 990fxe CNQ worked just fine.
> I've tried the last 3 bios from Asus website. None of them will let my cpu downclock.


for me CNQ didnt work withough APM


----------



## Cartel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> I have the Sabertooth r2 version with 1301 bios.
> My cpu runs at the overclocked speed 24/7 I have CNQ enabled.
> It simply wont drop below full speed.
> On my old mobo, which was a biostar 990fxe CNQ worked just fine.
> I've tried the last 3 bios from Asus website. None of them will let my cpu downclock.


select power options in your control panel


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farscaper*
> 
> If i read that correctly it said Bios ver .0705 dated 9/16/2011. So meaning its not updated accommodate the FX cores?.


If that is correct it wont, you need version 0813 and above, where did you get the date from? the board has either been in stock a long time or you've had it a long time. This board was purchased on the 9/11/2011 and came with version 0813, if you bought that recently the retailer should either update the BIOS for you or replace it with a newer one that supports FX CPU's.


----------



## plywood99

Thanks for the replies guys.
Yes I tried having APM enabled in the bios, no effect.
I have minimum cpu set to 10% in power options, no effect.
Not sure why this Asus motherboard is not allowing CNQ,
On Biostar I simply enabled CNQ in bios and that was it.
i'm using a 242*20.5 multi.


----------



## farscaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> If that is correct it wont, you need version 0813 and above, where did you get the date from? the board has either been in stock a long time or you've had it a long time. This board was purchased on the 9/11/2011 and came with version 0813, if you bought that recently the retailer should either update the BIOS for you or replace it with a newer one that supports FX CPU's.


I checked asus. Website for the bios rev and the date that it was posted. / I got the board about mid year last year. The date I posted was when the bios update was released


----------



## pennhaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Thanks for the replies guys.
> Yes I tried having APM enabled in the bios, no effect.
> I have minimum cpu set to 10% in power options, no effect.
> Not sure why this Asus motherboard is not allowing CNQ...


I had trouble getting CnQ to work beginning with BIOS 1006.

I changed two of the default settings under Advanced\CPU Configuration to get it to function again.

Cool'n'Quiet: *Always Enabled* [Default: Disabled by CPU]

Apm Master Mode: *Enabled* [Default: Auto]


----------



## jzohng

hey guys can i get a link to a page that shows benchmarks and compares all the available amd radeon 7870 cards to each other? im shopping for an amd radeon 7870 and its the last thing i need to build my new computer. i still havent tried out my sabertooth 990fx but one more month and ill be set. im currently looking at these two cards

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150605 i know its out of stock but it will be restocked soon

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125418

i cant find any benchmark comparisons. i would like to see benchmark comparisons of those two along with a majority of the 7870 series compared to each other not compared to nvidia cards and stuff.


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farscaper*
> 
> I checked asus. Website for the bios rev and the date that it was posted. / I got the board about mid year last year. The date I posted was when the bios update was released


Then unfortunately you need a non FX CPU to update the BIOS, maybe your local computer shop will do it for you.


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> Then unfortunately you need a non FX CPU to update the BIOS, maybe your local computer shop will do it for you.


Or just buy a new bios chip, either from Asus or Ebay if you wanna save a couple $$


----------



## zubzero689

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farscaper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> If that is correct it wont, you need version 0813 and above, where did you get the date from? the board has either been in stock a long time or you've had it a long time. This board was purchased on the 9/11/2011 and came with version 0813, if you bought that recently the retailer should either update the BIOS for you or replace it with a newer one that supports FX CPU's.
> 
> 
> 
> I checked asus. Website for the bios rev and the date that it was posted. / I got the board about mid year last year. The date I posted was when the bios update was released
Click to expand...

do you have rv1 board if so it is on asus website but is under the world part not USA for some reason i dont know why but it is
hope that helps


----------



## THC Butterz

if anyone here is good at modding Bios, I would love to find out if its posible to mod the R2 bios to the R1 and vise versa, I know there are features that both Bios lack, There are tons of people with a R2 that want core unlocking, and I know I have a R1 and would love some of the new features like fast booting


----------



## Krusher33

I think it'll be a crazy tedious mod because each board have different SATA controllers?

Question: I'm always used to just seeing CPU/NB voltage setting on previous board. But this one has CPU/NB and NB voltage. What's the difference?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I think it'll be a crazy tedious mod because each board have different SATA controllers?
> 
> Question: I'm always used to just seeing CPU/NB voltage setting on previous board. But this one has CPU/NB and NB voltage. What's the difference?


check out this thread at toms hardware:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/265178-29-voltage-voltage


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I think it'll be a crazy tedious mod because each board have different SATA controllers?
> 
> Question: I'm always used to just seeing CPU/NB voltage setting on previous board. But this one has CPU/NB and NB voltage. What's the difference?
> 
> 
> 
> check out this thread at toms hardware:
> http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/265178-29-voltage-voltage
Click to expand...

Meh, they should have named it something else. But thanks. +rep


----------



## jzohng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jzohng*
> 
> hey guys can i get a link to a page that shows benchmarks and compares all the available amd radeon 7870 cards to each other? im shopping for an amd radeon 7870 and its the last thing i need to build my new computer. i still havent tried out my sabertooth 990fx but one more month and ill be set. im currently looking at these two cards
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150605 i know its out of stock but it will be restocked soon
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125418
> i cant find any benchmark comparisons. i would like to see benchmark comparisons of those two along with a majority of the 7870 series compared to each other not compared to nvidia cards and stuff.


anyone?


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jzohng*
> 
> hey guys can i get a link to a page that shows benchmarks and compares all the available amd radeon 7870 cards to each other? im shopping for an amd radeon 7870 and its the last thing i need to build my new computer. i still havent tried out my sabertooth 990fx but one more month and ill be set. im currently looking at these two cards
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150605 i know its out of stock but it will be restocked soon
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125418
> i cant find any benchmark comparisons. i would like to see benchmark comparisons of those two along with a majority of the 7870 series compared to each other not compared to nvidia cards and stuff.


get the gigabyte... i dont remember where i saw the benchmark... but it was not long ago... all the 7870 versions with 15 cpu's and this one, kicked ass waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too much...


----------



## Krusher33

I'm competing in the multithreaded mayhem and so far got my 1055T to 4.2 ghz. Has anyone with the R1 version been able to get their bus speed over 300? I don't know if that's what causing me to not go higher or if it's something else right now. I was getting rather tired last night but thinking about it at work today. Is there a voltage setting that helps the reference clock speed?


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I'm competing in the multithreaded mayhem and so far got my 1055T to 4.2 ghz. Has anyone with the R1 version been able to get their bus speed over 300? I don't know if that's what causing me to not go higher or if it's something else right now. I was getting rather tired last night but thinking about it at work today. Is there a voltage setting that helps the reference clock speed?


maybe you already hit the brick wall with your cpu, that is a humongous overclock... and with 300 on your fsb, i think going higher, would really be an overkill.... i remember, that some time ago, i saw an overclock with your same settings, with 315 on the fsb (or something like that) and the user said that, "315 is the limit, going higher is raping my pc haha!"

on the other hand....

i was wondering, if i enable the c6 state, cool and quiet, and apm mode on my mobo, will that hinder my overclock? or it would just shave some watts and celsius?


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah I'm just trying to get higher for benches. My 24/7 settings will stay at 4 ghz.


----------



## jzohng

ok thankies


----------



## farscaper

Hello Everyone!

I finished putting together my rig just a little while ago

Case = Cm stormtrooper
memory = quad channel g.skill 1600 16bB ripjaws.
cpu = FX 8350
Vid card = Diamond , double diamond edition 7870 OC
Board = Asus sabertooth rev.1 990fx.
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit.
Stock fans....

Here She is !!


Here are my temps after a few minutes of far cry 3


Feed back always welcomed, . Any suggestions to make this rig a bit better please tell .


----------



## badpilot

stockcooler?


----------



## xenomorph113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badpilot*
> 
> stockcooler?


+1 lol


----------



## Tweeky

ASUS Sabertooth 990FX/*GEN 3* R2.0 (located under ASUS downloads)

http://support.asus.com/faq/List.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=SABERTOOTH%20990FX/GEN3%20R2.0&p=1

PCIe 3.0 support

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=176848

http://www.techpowerup.com/178545/ASUS-Unveils-World-s-First-PCI-Express-3.0-Motherboard-for-AMD-Processors.html

http://technewspedia.com/asus-announces-new-sabertooth-990fxgen3-card-r2-0/

http://www.overclock.net/t/1347772/tpu-asus-unveils-worlds-first-pci-express-3-0-motherboard-for-amd-processors


----------



## Krusher33

Stock cooler...


----------



## farscaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Stock cooler...


yes, till i can afford better cooling equipment,


----------



## Tater00nuts

I'm in the same boat with my 8150...but even with stock cooling (and no OC) it never gets above 60*.


----------



## shampoo911

ok yeah i was reading on my country's favorite tech website, that the new sabertooth will have pci-e 3.0... ok that's cool as hell...

HOWEVER

i also read, that dual gpu setups, will work at 8x-8x on the pci-e 3.0

WTH is this???

someone correct me please


----------



## farscaper

Does anyone have the nactua DH 14s on the 990fx rev 1 board with the ripjaws X on it?


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farscaper*
> 
> Does anyone have the nactua DH 14s on the 990fx rev 1 board with the ripjaws X on it?


i do... they fit perfectly... and have plenty of space...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> ok yeah i was reading on my country's favorite tech website, that the new sabertooth will have pci-e 3.0... ok that's cool as hell...
> 
> HOWEVER
> 
> i also read, that dual gpu setups, will work at 8x-8x on the pci-e 3.0
> 
> WTH is this???
> 
> someone correct me please


what i have read this is incorrect.

but pcie2.0 x16 is basically = to pcie3.0 8x from what i understand

from the specs it says 16x16 or 16x8x8 or 16x8x4x4 i think... i dont remember quad for sure illl look it up in a min

http://www.techpowerup.com/178545/ASUS-Unveils-World-s-First-PCI-Express-3.0-Motherboard-for-AMD-Processors.html

also here you go fresh from asus

http://event.asus.com/2011/mb/TUF/product_990FXGEN3R2_spec.htm
daul 16x16 triple 16x8x8

all pcie 3.0

i read about the quad capabilities somewhere but i dont know where..........


----------



## ceaze one

Wow, I really love the color scheme of the new revision of the Sabertooth!

Got some bad news, looks like I'm gonna have to RMA my motherboard









I've been using my Sabertooth (R1) for the past year with no problems until today. I think my on-board audio chip has gone bad. I can't get any sound from the front and rear audio ports. I've basically tried everything like uninstalling audio drivers/resetting bios/swapping out front panel header/etc and still no dice.

Anyone care to share their RMA experience with Asus and this board? I know I'll probably have to wait about a month before I get it back. Does Asus usually replace the board with a new/used/working board?


----------



## dixson01974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceaze one*
> 
> Got some bad news, looks like I'm gonna have to RMA my motherboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been using my Sabertooth (R1) for the past year with no problems until today. I think my on-board audio chip has gone bad. I can't get any sound from the front and rear audio ports. I've basically tried everything like uninstalling audio drivers/resetting bios/swapping out front panel header/etc and still no dice.
> 
> Anyone care to share their RMA experience with Asus and this board? I know I'll probably have to wait about a month before I get it back. Does Asus usually replace the board with a new/used/working board?


Well 3 RMA with the my Sabertooth and I'm still wait on the thrid RMA, but now for the bad new. First 2 RMA was for the same thing and third is that Asus RMA department got thermal paste in the socket and it will not post.

EDIT
In the USA about 2-3 weeks total for each RMA.


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dixson01974*
> 
> Well 3 RMA with the my Sabertooth and I'm still wait on the thrid RMA, but now for the bad new. First 2 RMA was for the same thing and third is that Asus RMA department got thermal paste in the socket and it will not post.


Oh man, not exactly what I wanted to hear lol. 2-3 weeks isn't that long.

I hope my RMA goes through smoothly as I've heard it's either hit or miss with Asus. I can't believe they would ship out a motherboard with TIM in the socket... Since a bad audio chip isn't that big of a problem, I hope I get my original board back and not a used/replacement (unless its new).









I've babied my motherboard and have barely pushed it


----------



## dixson01974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceaze one*
> 
> Oh man, not exactly what I wanted to hear lol. 2-3 weeks isn't that long.
> 
> I hope my RMA goes through smoothly as I've heard it's either hit or miss with Asus. I can't believe they would ship out a motherboard with TIM in the socket... Since a bad audio chip isn't that big of a problem, I hope I get my original board back and not a used/replacement (unless its new).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've babied my motherboard and have barely pushed it


Well If I get my original board back. I'm going to be really really really mad. The PCI-E slot 1 is only running at x8 not x16 and then when I oc just my cpu the PCI-E slot 1 will go out after 3-5 reboots.


----------



## cab2

I got memory modules with XMP profiles, it shows up in BIOS... Jedec -> XMP#1

Is there a way to switch to XMP timings or do I have to set them manually?


----------



## Cartel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farscaper*
> 
> yes, till i can afford better cooling equipment,


4.3Ghz on stock cooler?


----------



## farscaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cartel*
> 
> 4.3Ghz on stock cooler?


yea, i know . IS that crazy?, Any who, i reseted it back to 4.0 to 4.1.


----------



## farscaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> i do... they fit perfectly... and have plenty of space...


Do you have all memory banks used?, I'm thinking of buying the nactua heat sink. And i'm wondering if it has enough clearance for all 4 banks.


----------



## mironccr345

Thought I'd share a pic of my Sabertooth and 8120.

Still in the works. After a two day leak test, the EK res had a cylinder leak. So I bought a BP res. and I'll be using clear tubes. Should be up and running in a couple of days.


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> I got memory modules with XMP profiles, it shows up in BIOS... Jedec -> XMP#1
> 
> Is there a way to switch to XMP timings or do I have to set them manually?


look up d.o.c.p. in bios section of the manual


----------



## bxchef29

Had mine since 12/13/2012 and love it. Although i gave me problems with windows 8, with windows 7 its perfect


----------



## farscaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bxchef29*
> 
> Had mine since 12/13/2012 and love it. Although i gave me problems with windows 8, with windows 7 its perfect


Which Corsair water cooler is that?


----------



## kahboom

http://www.xbitlabs.com/news/mainboards/display/20130111104316_Asustek_Weds_AMD_FX_Platform_with_PCI_Express_3_0_in_New_Mainboard.html Allows AMD FX cpu to use PCI Express 3.0


----------



## kahboom

http://event.asus.com/2011/mb/TUF/product_990FXGEN3R2_spec.htm


----------



## farscaper

For the noctua D14 users, did you guys up the voltage for the fan speed, or was it left alone?, cause these fans are not PWM type.


----------



## bxchef29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farscaper*
> 
> Which Corsair water cooler is that?


its the h60


----------



## Ghost12

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/835/imag0008nz.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/526/imag0006hk.jpg/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us
My alternative vrm cooler - I put it in this weekend, its actually a Kingston hyperx ram cooler. The legs clip exactly over the end of the heatsink and atx plug. I was sick of looking at my ghetto rigged 70mm fan spoiling the look. This works and looks well for the purpose


----------



## farscaper

Windows 8 users using the saber rev1 board, I was looking at the asus website and i did not see any SATA drivers, does it mean it does not need them. Are the Windows 8 Drivers sufficient?


----------



## dixson01974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farscaper*
> 
> Windows 8 users using the saber rev1 board, I was looking at the asus website and i did not see any SATA drivers, does it mean it does not need them. Are the Windows 8 Drivers sufficient?


Windows 8 as all but RAID drivers.


----------



## Mega Man

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1t3F8b7oB4
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/835/imag0008nz.jpg/
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/526/imag0006hk.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> 
> My alternative vrm cooler - I put it in this weekend, its actually a Kingston hyperx ram cooler. The legs clip exactly over the end of the heatsink and atx plug. I was sick of looking at my ghetto rigged 70mm fan spoiling the look. This works and looks well for the purpose


+1 i like that i am thinking about using that or getting a piece of copper milled and lapped as a baseplate and using a ram water block to cool my vrms. ( @ 4.8ghz + my vrms are hitting 80c with a fan on them @[email protected] )


----------



## Mega Man

please delete. it wouldnt let me edit my old post tilli posted this ._. thanks ~


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1t3F8b7oB4
> +1 i like that i am thinking about using that or getting a piece of copper milled and lapped as a baseplate and using a ram water block to cool my vrms. ( @ 4.8ghz + my vrms are hitting 80c with a fan on them @[email protected] )


@4.7 1.47 on my 8120 the vrm was hitting 70c after bf3 multi for few hours since switched to the switch 810 with water, my old case had a 120mm fan(inwin dragon rider) built into the back case blowing the back of the socket and it was never a problem but in the switch 810 it has been. The ram blower fits perfectly in length and if wanted to lower could saw an inch off the legs but its fine. Looks better than the one I had double sided taped lol


----------



## spanner1211

Hay lads can I be joined into your group please here is my pics


----------



## Mistral

Water cooled Crosshair V Formula-Z


----------



## spanner1211




----------



## spanner1211




----------



## spanner1211




----------



## spanner1211




----------



## spanner1211




----------



## spanner1211




----------



## spanner1211




----------



## spanner1211




----------



## spanner1211




----------



## spanner1211

Look what just came through the post my new white extensions hahahahaha


----------



## spanner1211

How do I change profile pic when using an iPhone


----------



## shampoo911

change your name to Spammer hahaha j/k

try to group your pics and send in one post, not 15...


----------



## spanner1211

Lmao my bad I will next time sorry


----------



## cab2

The new aida64 extreme 2.70 supports the extra thermal sensors on the SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0

Temps #1-2 correspond to VCORE-1 & 2 in thermal radar. However, all the extra sensors are intermittently sending out-of-range values, which causes constant warnings and errors from Asus AI Suite II. Looks like a gimmick.



Untitled.png 309k .png file


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spanner1211*
> 
> Lmao my bad I will next time sorry


dont sweat it dude... just overclock the hell out of your cpu...

btw, those fans on the top of your case... enermax magma???


----------



## spanner1211

Fx835o @4.7 ATM







and no gotta a enermax trio Vegas in side but the ones on the top are cougar vortex 120mm


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spanner1211*
> 
> Fx835o @4.7 ATM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and no gotta a enermax trio Vegas in side but the ones on the top are cougar vortex 120mm


they look like pokeballs under uv light...


----------



## spanner1211

Reali lmao
Anyhow just wondering what my next upgrade could be not too expensive but worth while
My rig
600t corsair case white
Asus sabertooth 990fx
Fx8350
H100 cooler
16gb corsair vengence 1600 MHz 2x8gb
Asus gtx 670
1tb hard drive 7200
Windows 7 prem
Razer deathadder mouse


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spanner1211*
> 
> Reali lmao
> Anyhow just wondering what my next upgrade could be not too expensive but worth while
> My rig
> 600t corsair case white
> Asus sabertooth 990fx
> Fx8350
> H100 cooler
> 16gb corsair vengence 1600 MHz 2x8gb
> Asus gtx 670
> 1tb hard drive 7200
> Windows 7 prem
> Razer deathadder mouse


SSD-definitely.

-dimwit-


----------



## spanner1211

Reali a ssd well I play games bf3 mostly so what set up shod I go for then and anything I shod look out for and how the set up:

1.Small ssd-games

2.2 small ssds -games and windows

3.1 big ssd -windows and games

Wod It feel better gaming /windows
Any better fps,benchmarks or not lol
Cheers guys


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spanner1211*
> 
> Reali a ssd well I play games bf3 mostly so what set up shod I go for then and anything I shod look out for and how the set up:
> 
> 1.Small ssd-games
> 
> 2.2 small ssds -games and windows
> 
> 3.1 big ssd -windows and games
> 
> Wod It feel better gaming /windows
> Any better fps,benchmarks or not lol
> Cheers guys


i'd say

one 120gb SSD for windows and everyday programs, and one 1tb HDD for all other files including games... that's my setup.... and maybe a couple of fps you will gain if installing a game in a SSD... but no big deal...


----------



## xenomorph113

you could always go for an SSD and then get a few normal drives in a raid 0, my setup currently is 2x vertex 3 120GB (RAID0) and 3x WD 640 blues (RAID0) works like a charm for most everything i do


----------



## Piguy

Hi All,

I have followed this thread from the first post with great interest and I'm very impressed with both the level of expertise and the helpfulness of everyone here. I have the R2 with an FX-8350 and I'm very happy so far. The one problem I'm having is that there is about a 10 second lag from the "Starting Windows" message to the boot animation. I'm running Win 7 on a OCZ Vertex 4 and have unplugged any external drives to ensure that was not the cause of the lag. I have also disabled the ASMedia SATA controller in the BIOS. Any suggestions on what might be causing this lag?

Thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piguy*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I have followed this thread from the first post with great interest and I'm very impressed with both the level of expertise and the helpfulness of everyone here. I have the R2 with an FX-8350 and I'm very happy so far. The one problem I'm having is that there is about a 10 second lag from the "Starting Windows" message to the boot animation. I'm running Win 7 on a OCZ Vertex 4 and have unplugged any external drives to ensure that was not the cause of the lag. I have also disabled the ASMedia SATA controller in the BIOS. Any suggestions on what might be causing this lag?
> 
> Thanks!


need more info ram cooling ect

not to be rude but have to cover the basics, did you use sata3 cable? which port did you plug into have you set up windows for ssd?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1156654/seans-windows-7-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds#

also having to many programs open with windows can hurt loading times


----------



## badpilot

I think it's the Network iControl function in your AI Suite.

Disable it, or uninstall AISuite, and install without Network iControl.

I had the same thing when I got my board. After some searching I found this, and it worked.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piguy*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I have followed this thread from the first post with great interest and I'm very impressed with both the level of expertise and the helpfulness of everyone here. I have the R2 with an FX-8350 and I'm very happy so far. The one problem I'm having is that there is about a 10 second lag from the "Starting Windows" message to the boot animation. I'm running Win 7 on a OCZ Vertex 4 and have unplugged any external drives to ensure that was not the cause of the lag. I have also disabled the ASMedia SATA controller in the BIOS. Any suggestions on what might be causing this lag?
> 
> Thanks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Piguy*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I have followed this thread from the first post with great interest and I'm very impressed with both the level of expertise and the helpfulness of everyone here. I have the R2 with an FX-8350 and I'm very happy so far. The one problem I'm having is that there is about a 10 second lag from the "Starting Windows" message to the boot animation. I'm running Win 7 on a OCZ Vertex 4 and have unplugged any external drives to ensure that was not the cause of the lag. I have also disabled the ASMedia SATA controller in the BIOS. Any suggestions on what might be causing this lag?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> need more info ram cooling ect
> 
> not to be rude but have to cover the basics, did you use sata3 cable? which port did you plug into have you set up windows for ssd?
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1156654/seans-windows-7-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds#
> 
> also having to many programs open with windows can hurt loading times
Click to expand...

Agreed. Whenever you ask for help, always provide the specs. It helps to use the rigbuilder feature and put it in your sig.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badpilot*
> 
> I think it's the Network iControl function in your AI Suite.
> 
> Disable it, or uninstall AISuite, and install without Network iControl.
> 
> I had the same thing when I got my board. After some searching I found this, and it worked.


If this doesn't work, I think it is a service that's causing a hangup. Go to 'msconfig' and start disabling a couple, restart, if it doesn't fix, disable a couple more. Maybe even look at your list of startup programs and see if one of those is causing you issues.

During the windows boot screen it's loading the drivers. Past that it start loading services and startup programs.


----------



## Piguy

Mega Man,

Sorry for the sparse details. I just did the Rigbuilder process so hopefully my specs are in "My Rig" below. The RAM is Patriot Viper 3 (2133 MHz) 11-11-11-27.
Yes, Sata 6Gb cable on either SATA6G_5 or SATA6G_6.
Yes, I have confirmed that TRIM is enabled.

Badpilot,

I uninstalled AI Suite as I was having problems at first too. There is no sign of Network iControl or any other part of AI Suite now.

Krusher33,

Rigbuilder completed. Still a bit of a noob here. Thanks for the tip and the patience!
I agree that it's likely a service. I'll do some experimenting with msconfig and report my findings.

Thanks everyone!


----------



## Piguy

So much for "My Rig" being below.









So how do you include your rig from Rigbuilder when you make a post?


----------



## Krusher33

You go into your profile and edit your sig.


----------



## Piguy

Much better! Thanks Krusher33.


----------



## shampoo911

new chipset drivers... just out of the oven...

13.1

http://support.amd.com/us/gpudownload/windows/Pages/raid_windows.aspx


----------



## farscaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> new chipset drivers... just out of the oven...
> 
> 13.1
> 
> http://support.amd.com/us/gpudownload/windows/Pages/raid_windows.aspx


oh boy usb 3.0 support. :0


----------



## spanner1211

Hay guys I need to cool my vrm vcore1 I seen my be ram coolers but any one with with a solution thank you


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spanner1211*
> 
> Hay guys I need to cool my vrm vcore1 I seen my be ram coolers but any one with with a solution thank you


from what i have found is
1)
ghetto rig a fan

2)
ram coolers

3)
watercooling
-koolance 100mm vrm cooler +140mm backplate ( several ppl have done it most modded the backplate by drilling 2 holes in it for mounting. others didnt say if they had or had not modified it )

-i think what i am going to try is using the ram watercooler ( 2 dim ) [ trying to stick to solid copper +plastics in my builds. no nickel ]

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g30/c225/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Water_Blocks_RAM.html

+flat copper ( i found some small businesses that do it. links are in my other os and i am too lazy to boot ill try and post them later. the ones i have found do a relatively good job at lapping them .03" is the tolerance if memory serves, + i hate grainger, gonna ask them if they can lap it better , but anywho ill look for the links later and post them if i remember )
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Flat-Stock-1HLG8


----------



## spanner1211

Thanks a lot mega man I love these forums everyone has the time to help lmao (not brown nosing)
Il prob look into ram fan coolers cos of the easiest route
Any ideal fan coolers in mind it's just it affects my CPU temp cos of the h100 on the CPU is abit poo lol I was expecting lower temps then I get :
Iv got the corsair 600t with the rad bolted on top moved over slightly so I can bolt on push and pull wid cougar vortexs pushing intake and the top and slim 120mm fans pulling on the bottom on the rad on idle I'm getting about 29-31 degrees and full load for 20mins I'm getting 60-65 it hovers around 63-65 so I switch prime 95 off that's at 4.5ghz @1.43 volts so was thinking about vrm coolers bring abit of air flow around that area does it all sound about right il put a pic of 3d benchmark up cos I reckon my CPU physics is low cheers guys


----------



## spanner1211




----------



## spanner1211

Il be honest my savest temp is when my CPU volts are at 1.4 :s but that allows me only 4.4 ghz I can quite easily get 4.8 @1.49 lmao but against temps are not good but are funny when play bf3 cos dosnt use 100% load like prime 95 just wish it wasn't such a pig of a overclocker but we all wod be bored if it was easy I best calm down on the posting before shampoo gets on my case for spammer lmao j/k cheers lads


----------



## Mega Man

i have not fixed anything i am having the same problem atm. i can toast my vrms but hit 5.o on mine even with my ghetto mount 120mm fan

atm i am keeping my unit @ 4.6 in prime vrms hit 59-60


----------



## spanner1211

Little update played wid the voltage and I got 100% stable at 4.5 @1.42 volts wid temps 30 idle 61 full load cos of temp







thinking
about getting shot of my water cooler h100 and putting on my enermax ets air cooler wid push pull :s


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spanner1211*
> 
> Little update played wid the voltage and I got 100% stable at 4.5 @1.42 volts wid temps 30 idle 61 full load cos of temp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thinking
> about getting shot of my water cooler h100 and putting on my enermax ets air cooler wid push pull :s


how much thermal paste and what kind did you use?
did you clean the cpu ?
how is the rad oriented ( pull in cold air ?)

the 8350 makes a ton of heat

the apogehd does a great job at keeping it cool this is what i have Swiftech H20-220 EDGE HD and it works great!!!! not the perfect setup but a good place to start. next i am buying new rads pump and res and using the currant pump/rad in my wifes pc

but either way i love it great setup and not too pricy


----------



## farscaper

Hey guy's.

Not sure if this normal, check out my chassis fan 4, it fluctuates to so high RPM, but i don't notices rotating super duper fast, to me it looks like it rotating at normal RPM. Here's a link i posted it on youtube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OnYVl1-GXEE


----------



## spanner1211

Well I cleaned the CPU and the corsair h100 had already thermal paste on it and yes the rad at the top wid vortex fans on top case pulling as intake (air into case) and slim 120mm fans on under Neath the rad pulling air into case now iv got 4.5 ghz at 1.42 full load 63 idles at 30 is that about right lol


----------



## spanner1211

Just out of interest how have you got that swiftech set up and what's the temps like


----------



## wiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fugatron78*
> 
> Hello all, im planing upgrade to this board vera soon, have some of you tested it with 8GB ram modules ? my goal is 32GB RAM.....
> or this option is only usable for new BD cores ????
> i do a lot of Phogrametry so please dont ask why so much memory.......
> because on qvl on asus say nothing about the 8GB Modules.......
> can someone tesst it ?


i have 4x 8GB Patriot modules and they run quiet well, did have to run MemOK!, to boot








word to the wise, you must have windows 8 pro 64-bit or windows 7 pro 64-bit to run that much memory


----------



## westnyle

I got a LQ310 to pair with my Sabertooth 1st gen. Thinking about overclocking my 8120, I have it set to DOCP or whatever that setting is so i could unlock my ram profile.. Is the best OC method to just up the multiplier?....

Although I have a Sandybridge I7 2600 Non K To play with too but the board P67A-UD3-B3 has no firewire, so for me to use that as my main pc ill have to buy a firewire card...

Wonder if this 4$ card would do the trick
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Firewire-IEEE-1394V-DV-VIA-Video-Capture-Card-with-USB-/370722018997?pt=US_Internal_Port_Expansion_Cards&hash=item5650c116b5


----------



## dimwit13

Hey Guys, is there a release date for the R2/Gen3 Sabertooth MB?
Is it out and I just cant find one?

I have my 960t/2x gtx 460s/8gig 1600/60gig SSD just itching to be used, so I was thinking of throwing my sig rig onto the gen3 and the 960 on my R1 sabertooth.
I ran the 960 on here before and got great overclocks and unlocked cores.
I am in the process of designing/reworking my Bamboo case for the sig rig, the 960 will go into the 650D




Wow, this is an old picture-I just got my 2nd gtx260 when I took this.

It will be a month or so before I buy a MB, I still need to pick up a PSU/HDD/Water cooling (wish I could find some full blocks for my 460s) and mod the bamboo case.
If need be, I can pick up the R2

Thanks

-dimwit-


----------



## Tweeky

*CPU ZLib Benchmark*

_This integer benchmark measures combined CPU and memory subsystem performance through the public ZLib compression library. CPU ZLib test uses only the basic x86 instructions but is nonetheless a good indicator of general system performance._










http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/57615-amd-vishera-fx-6300-fx-4300-review-3.html


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiak*
> 
> i have 4x 8GB Patriot modules and they run quiet well, did have to run MemOK!, to boot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> word to the wise, you must have windows 8 pro 64-bit or windows 7 pro 64-bit to run that much memory
> 
> i have a vcore temp issue too
> did someone find a fix?, reading 405 pages takes a while, so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i run stock, no oc yet


how much air flow do you have in case ?42
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spanner1211*
> 
> Just out of interest how have you got that swiftech set up and what's the temps like




at the moment i have it out side of my case i could of mounted in side but meh i like it this way

in prime i run ~50 ( i think ) been a few weeks since i tryed and my memory isnt good lol ) ill run it again, my vcore 1 hits 60c but doesnt go higher

1.45v cpu llc very high

vcore1 on my board is what is keeping me from ocing any higher. if i put it outside i can easily hit 5 ghz and board stays cool

i love the block it rocks (apogee hd)


----------



## zubzero689

well here is my new mods update

new rad now i have a 120 and my old 240

new window

my new home made desk,built it with my dad, and new 23" monitor and the old 21.5"


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> how much air flow do you have in case ?42
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at the moment i have it out side of my case i could of mounted in side but meh i like it this way
> 
> in prime i run ~50 ( i think ) been a few weeks since i tryed and my memory isnt good lol ) ill run it again, my vcore 1 hits 60c but doesnt go higher
> 
> 1.45v cpu llc very high
> 
> vcore1 on my board is what is keeping me from ocing any higher. if i put it outside i can easily hit 5 ghz and board stays cool
> 
> i love the block it rocks (apogee hd)


yep stays ~52c ( usually @ 51c max is 52 ) and board highest temp is 60c
and i lied about volts sorry~~

volts LLC
1.475 cpu ultrahigh
1.25 cpu/nb high
1.2 NB
1.55 ram


----------



## spanner1211

Sweet so my temps are not far off what clock speed are you running that rad outside does look mean as **** lol sweet rig


----------



## Falmod

Can you add me to the owners club please









CPU-Z Validation: Link

EDIT: Just realised I could do it myself lol


----------



## ItGoesTwo11

I'm in need of a HUGE favor. I'm planning on using this MB for my build. BUT I have to relocate my rad and I need to know what the distance is from the MB tray to the top of the MOSFET heatsinks for clearance. Thanks for any info!!


----------



## philharmonik

Here is my rig! Just got my new Sabertooth 990FX installed yesterday! For now I am running with the stock CPU cooler that came with my 8350. My Zalman CNPS12X needs some double sided 3M tape for the backplate. It was ruined when I removed it from my MSI 890FX board!











http://valid.canardpc.com/2661977

http://valid.canardpc.com/2661977


----------



## spikeSP

Quick noob question about overclocking (and thanks for all the awesomeness in this thread guys! I've read through quite a bit):

I'm trying to OC my AMD FX-8120 black edition on my Asus Sabertooth 990FX.
I went into my BIOS and I've disabled all the "green" settings, set everything to manual, and I increased the CPU ratio to 20 (to get 4 Ghz, something that was easily stable for me when I tested it in AMD overdrive utility).

Now, it shows the target CPU speed at 4 Ghz, but the Current CPU Speed isn't changing (still at 3.1 Ghz), even after saving and resetting. Am I doing something terribly wrong or just incredibly stupid??? Thanks for any suggestions!


----------



## DrSwizz

@ItGoesTwo11:

I can quite easily make the measurement for you as I happen to have disassebled my system, but I don't quite understand what exactly it is that you want measured. Please use a picture to explain.

spikeSP: It sounds like you are doing it right.


----------



## spikeSP

DrSwizz: Thanks for the quick reply!

Any idea on why it isn't actually clocking up though? As in it's showing that as the TARGET speed, but not as the actual current speed?

EDIT: more information:

The Current Speed listed in the BIOS is still 3.1 Ghz,
When I run CPU-Z in my OS, it still has the Default Turbo speed of 3.4 Ghz. (I have disabled the automatic turbo core boost in the BIOS).

I'm getting more and more confused at this point @[email protected]


----------



## spikeSP

Here are some screenshots if they help, and sorry for being disorganized in my posts!


----------



## Tweeky

the multiplier in cpu-z shows 17x

reboot go into the bios and check the multiplier

try18x and save (F10) and reboot and check with cpu-z


----------



## spikeSP

Thanks Tweeky.

Although CPU-Z shows a 17x multiplier, the CPU ratio was set at 20.0 in the BIOS. I tried reducing it to 18x, saving and resetting, with no change in either clock speed in BIOS ( aside from changed target speed, not running speed) or in CPU-Z (still showing that damned 17x multiplier)


----------



## Tweeky

with 18x set

try using the F10 key to save bios setting then exit the bios

please show motherboard tab in cpu-z

step through the bios save steps carefully


----------



## spikeSP

Hello; Yes I have been using F10 to save BIOS settings and boot the OS.

Here is a picture of the mainboard tab in CPU-Z:



EDIT:

Is it possible that this is an issue because I had AMD overdrive installed? I have uninstalled it with no luck on fixing this


----------



## Tweeky

use the F5 key to set bios to defaults and save and exit

take not note of mult in cpu-z

try setting only the mult to18x in the bios and save and exit the bios


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikeSP*
> 
> Hello; Yes I have been using F10 to save BIOS settings and boot the OS.
> 
> Here is a picture of the mainboard tab in CPU-Z:
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Is it possible that this is an issue because I had AMD overdrive installed? I have uninstalled it with no luck on fixing this


i don't believe AMD overdrive will have any effect

for some reason your bios is not saving mult

is the board the older sabertooth or the newer R 2.0 just checking


----------



## spikeSP

I tried resetting to default and then setting the multiplier to x18 but still no dice.

It is the older board (http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131736)

Interestingly, I noticed that if I set the BIOS to DOCP instead of manual, it saves my multipliers and CPU-Z shows it at 20x!

My only concern with this setting is that the BIOS is saying DRAM OC at 1600 mhz, when mine is only rated at 1333 mhz


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikeSP*
> 
> I tried resetting to default and then setting the multiplier to x18 but still no dice.
> 
> It is the older board (http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131736)
> 
> Interestingly, I noticed that if I set the BIOS to DOCP instead of manual, it saves my multipliers and CPU-Z shows it at 20x!
> 
> My only concern with this setting is that the BIOS is saying DRAM OC at 1600 mhz, when mine is only rated at 1333 mhz


I don't know off it will fix it but you should disable apm as well


----------



## Tweeky

DOCP is a very good option to use with DOCP set there will be additional option to set the ram freq to 1333 if you like

under the ram freq setting select profile #0 or #1 and it will set your ram for you

some ram will run at high freq

some times ram manufactures make one ram chip and then lable it at different freq

you may try setting mult under DOCP and save and then switch manual

i always use DOCP to set up my boards



DOCP may change your CPU Bus Freq. to match your memory this is OK

my cpu is a amd 1090t and my ram has freq of 2000mhz


----------



## ocfanboy

Hello,

I have a rev2 board and a phenom 965 C3
Just got my new board so im gonna start Ocing from stock again.

Can some one pls explain the difference between CPU/NB Voltage and NB Voltage?
Looking at my board and Cpu what should my Max safe voltage for every day use be on my CPU/NB voltage and NB voltage be?

Thanks


----------



## ItGoesTwo11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrSwizz*
> 
> @ItGoesTwo11:
> 
> I can quite easily make the measurement for you as I happen to have disassebled my system, but I don't quite understand what exactly it is that you want measured. Please use a picture to explain.


I stole philharmonik pic..







 hope this helps. Again future thanks for any info


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ocfanboy*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I have a rev2 board and a phenom 965 C3
> Just got my new board so im gonna start Ocing from stock again.
> 
> Can some one pls explain the difference between CPU/NB Voltage and NB Voltage?
> Looking at my board and Cpu what should my Max safe voltage for every day use be on my CPU/NB voltage and NB voltage be?
> 
> Thanks


I get an easy 4.0 GHz at 1.45V with 965BE. The latest 965 have stock 1.45V so you don't need to change anything other than the multiplier.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2526113


----------



## spikeSP

Thanks for the help with the issue guys; looks like using DOCP solved the issue of why it wasn't clocking.
Now I just have to figure out what's wrong with the voltage settings (with Prime95 it shot up to 65 in a few seconds at 1.38 volts, which is a little peculiar considering that with AMD overdrive it was auto-set to 1.41 volts and never passed 49 degrees! I guess I'll try lower voltages


----------



## DrSwizz

@ItGoesTwo11:

14.5mm for the black ceramic covered part of the heat sink, slightly more for the brown part of the heatsink.
I have version R2.0 of the board.

@ocfanboy:

CPU/NB = L3 cache + IMC inside the CPU.
Don't go above 1.35V. Try lower first as the CPU/NB part of the CPU is large and too high voltage can cause the CPU to heat up too much and limit your overclocking of the CPU cores.

NB = NB chip on the motherboard.
You don't need to increase the NB voltage accept when OCing memory or HTref clock very high.


----------



## ocfanboy

Ok guys so I got it to 3.8 with 5 hours prime95 stable. I got this on my old motherboard as well. I cant get 3.9 or 4.0 to run 5 mins even upping the voltage to 1.4625 doesnt help.

Any ways when I run prime 95 ,cpuz reports my vcore to be at 1.472v but its set to 1.45v in bios?
Also as u can see in the image cpu/nb voltage i leave on auto. Auto is at 1.350v. Is this safe?










Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ocfanboy*
> 
> Ok guys so I got it to 3.8 with 5 hours prime95 stable. I got this on my old motherboard as well. I cant get 3.9 or 4.0 to run 5 mins even upping the voltage to 1.4625 doesnt help.
> 
> Any ways when I run prime 95 ,cpuz reports my vcore to be at 1.472v but its set to 1.45v in bios?
> Also as u can see in the image cpu/nb voltage i leave on auto. Auto is at 1.350v. Is this safe?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


Not to worry, some 965s need close to 1.5V to run 4.0GHz. The Sabertooth scales voltage down as needed if you enable power saving. So, I'd just set CPU to *offset* 1.5V and leave it alone.

Note my link above, cpu is actually running at 1.392V even though I've set it to 1.45V. You can use K10stat to experiment.


----------



## wiak

do someone else have this issue
Computer wont sleep, it will resume from sleep after some minutes, regardless of settings in windows, i have disabled resume on keyboad/mouse and it still does not sleep








do someone that knows asus of a way to disable keyboad/mouse in sleep standby in UEFI? so i have to press the power button to resume from sleep?

its super annoying to set computer to sleep and it will wake up after some short minutes..


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiak*
> 
> do someone else have this issue
> Computer wont sleep, it will resume from sleep *after some minutes*, regardless of settings in windows, i have disabled resume on keyboad/mouse and it still does not sleep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do someone that knows asus of a way to disable keyboad/mouse in sleep standby in UEFI? so i have to press the power button to resume from sleep?
> 
> its super annoying to set computer to sleep and it will wake up after some short minutes..


If it suspends successfully but resumes after a few minutes, check your _wake on lan_ settings. In Windows it's in device manager under network controllers.


----------



## philharmonik

Fellow Sabertooth owners! I've finally got my board installed and everything is running stable at stock settings. I have only one gripe so far. My boot time has increased by 10-20 seconds since switching from my MSI 890FXA-GD65. I have went into the BIOS and disabled everything I could think of to increase boot time. It seems to take way too long once it starts to boot into the OS at "Starting Windows". What's happening is when it gets to "Starting Windows", it stays there for almost 10 seconds before the Windows glowing logo starts up. Then , it boots into Windows. My OS drive is on SATA 1, with brand new SATA cables. The OS drive is set to boot first. I set the "enter BIOS" screen to 1 second. Is there anything else I am missing? If this is too confusing I will make a short YouTube video to explain it better. Thanks!


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philharmonik*
> 
> Fellow Sabertooth owners! I've finally got my board installed and everything is running stable at stock settings. I have only one gripe so far. My boot time has increased by 10-20 seconds since switching from my MSI 890FXA-GD65. I have went into the BIOS and disabled everything I could think of to increase boot time. It seems to take way too long once it starts to boot into the OS at "Starting Windows". What's happening is when it gets to "Starting Windows", it stays there for almost 10 seconds before the Windows glowing logo starts up. Then , it boots into Windows. My OS drive is on SATA 1, with brand new SATA cables. The OS drive is set to boot first. I set the "enter BIOS" screen to 1 second. Is there anything else I am missing? If this is too confusing I will make a short YouTube video to explain it better. Thanks!


try installing the new chipset drivers...


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *philharmonik*
> 
> Fellow Sabertooth owners! I've finally got my board installed and everything is running stable at stock settings. I have only one gripe so far. My boot time has increased by 10-20 seconds since switching from my MSI 890FXA-GD65. I have went into the BIOS and disabled everything I could think of to increase boot time. It seems to take way too long once it starts to boot into the OS at "Starting Windows". What's happening is when it gets to "Starting Windows", it stays there for almost 10 seconds before the Windows glowing logo starts up. Then , it boots into Windows. My OS drive is on SATA 1, with brand new SATA cables. The OS drive is set to boot first. I set the "enter BIOS" screen to 1 second. Is there anything else I am missing? If this is too confusing I will make a short YouTube video to explain it better. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> try installing the new chipset drivers...
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's not the motherboard or anything like that if it's taking longer at the Windows boot up screen. The drivers are being loaded during that start screen so I think Shampoo is spot on. Otherwise it's some other driver issue.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Yeah, it's not the motherboard or anything like that if it's taking longer at the Windows boot up screen. The drivers are being loaded during that start screen so I think Shampoo is spot on. Otherwise it's some other driver issue.


may he didn't even formatted his HDD or SSD (probably HDD) at the time of "migrating" of chipset... and there can be a conflict... happened to me once... from 880g to 990fx.. it was DISASTROUS... USB was completely disabled... even PS2 were not functioning.. had to format the HDD...


----------



## philharmonik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> may he didn't even formatted his HDD or SSD (probably HDD) at the time of "migrating" of chipset... and there can be a conflict... happened to me once... from 880g to 990fx.. it was DISASTROUS... USB was completely disabled... even PS2 were not functioning.. had to format the HDD...


You are correct. I kept the SSD the same, no format. I was thinking about a clean install but it would take a while to back everything up. Knowing me, I'll probably end up doing that. Ugh!


----------



## philharmonik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> try installing the new chipset drivers...


I will definitely try this before going down the long, hard road of clean install. Thanks!


----------



## Joel18

hey guys im wanting to achieve 4ghz overclock on my AMD Phantom ii x4 945 processor i just bought a Corsair H100i liquid cooling system so im well covered for the cooling part but wondering if you guys could give me settings for the bios like over voltage ect. ect.


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiak*
> 
> do someone else have this issue
> Computer wont sleep, it will resume from sleep after some minutes, regardless of settings in windows, i have disabled resume on keyboad/mouse and it still does not sleep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do someone that knows asus of a way to disable keyboad/mouse in sleep standby in UEFI? so i have to press the power button to resume from sleep?
> 
> its super annoying to set computer to sleep and it will wake up after some short minutes..


Your sig rig shows Windows 8, so I would google Windows 8 suspend/standby troubleshooting. I have had this type issue in the past many times, and it can be a long road to find a setting or driver conflict that causes your computer to return from standby rapidly.

Good Luck!


----------



## bicyclechris

I have had continuous frustration with my Sabertooth r1 board. I've owned it for a year now, and have it running a AMD FX-8120 chip, Corsair Vengeance RAM, Zalman CNPS 9900MAX cpu cooler, etc.
I've never had this system 100% stable at stock settings. I've troubleshooted it every-witch-way there is possible, including full BIOS and chipset updates, BIOS setting adjustments, hardware checks, etc.
I've been dealing with at least one BSOD a week for the past year.
Now I'm fed up. I'm dumping this board and processor in favor of an LGA 2011 / Intel X79 series board with a Corei7 3930k processor.
This is not the first ASUS board to cause me headache, but it is the last.
I use my computer to make a living, and this piece of crap has cost me hundreds of dollars in wasted time and lost productivity.
BOO ON YOU ASUS for making your paying customers perform R&D for you! I've been a loyal ASUS / AMD fan for over ten years, but not anymore.


----------



## Mega Man

so you have to go on a forum and make a waa i dont know how to fix it so i am gonna troll thread? did you ever think there was a problem and rma board, and or memory ? possibly CPU ?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> so you have to go on a forum and make a waa i dont know how to fix it so i am gonna troll thread? did you ever think there was a problem and rma board, and or memory ? possibly CPU ?


+1, too this!

not to mention the FX series chips run Hot, you shure that heatsync was mounted properly and you where using quality tim??


----------



## philke

Hello guys,

I can run my FX8150 at 4.8Ghz easy on an asus sabertooth r2.0. I must say is my best motherboard i ever had.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bicyclechris*
> 
> I have had continuous frustration with my Sabertooth r1 board. I've owned it for a year now, and have it running a AMD FX-8120 chip, Corsair Vengeance RAM, Zalman CNPS 9900MAX cpu cooler, etc.
> I've never had this system 100% stable at stock settings. I've troubleshooted it every-witch-way there is possible, including full BIOS and chipset updates, BIOS setting adjustments, hardware checks, etc.
> I've been dealing with at least one BSOD a week for the past year.
> Now I'm fed up. I'm dumping this board and processor in favor of an LGA 2011 / Intel X79 series board with a Corei7 3930k processor.
> This is not the first ASUS board to cause me headache, but it is the last.
> I use my computer to make a living, and this piece of crap has cost me hundreds of dollars in wasted time and lost productivity.
> BOO ON YOU ASUS for making your paying customers perform R&D for you! I've been a loyal ASUS / AMD fan for over ten years, but not anymore.


so sell me you sabertooth.
I need something to run my 960t with.

-dimwit-


----------



## Mistral

That about sums it up lol.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philke*
> 
> Hello guys,
> I can run my FX8150 at 4.8Ghz easy on an asus sabertooth r2.0. I must say is my best motherboard i ever had.


Mind sharing your OC settings.







Also, just finished this build a couple of days ago. Love the Sabertooth mobo!


----------



## bicyclechris

I understand what you guys are saying, but I have thoroughly checked all of that.
The CPU has a Zalman CNPS9900MAX cooler installed (which is rad) and all temps are all within normal ranges (much lower than with the stock fan).
I've checked and tested the RAM and EVGA GTX 580 Graphics card in this machine and in another machine, they work fine.
I have a Seasonic Platinum 1000watt PSU, which works just fine too.
I simply don't have time to warranty the board, nor wait for a new one to show up.
I need this computer up and available as much a possible with minimum downtime.
I'm sure that the newer R2 boards work fine for most folks, but I was unlucky enough to buy an R1 board right after it was rushed to market.
What I should have done is saved more money and bought a workstation board and server processor.
I don't overclock anything, I'm looking for long-term reliability, and I don't play games.
This board is great for gamers and has a lot of overclocking capabilities.
I can't ague with the hardware quality of this and other ASUS boards, they are top-notch.
I can argue however that their software reliability has faltered in the last couple of years.
I've been building ASUS/AMD machines regularly since 1998, and haven't had any issues.
My last reliable board is an ASUS M2N-E, which I use in a simple Windows 2008r2 server machine at home and I love it!
However I bought a ASUS M4A78T-E board for simple office use, and I had the same issues as this 990fx R1.
I took all of the hardware out swapped everything to a different board, and it works fine.

I'll sell the board, CPU, and CPU cooler locally for $100.00.
Since my board has known reliability issues and I've used it for a year, I'm giving it away free with the purchase of the CPU and Cooler.

I also read this thread regularly, but don't post to it much. In fact, I began reading posting shortly after I bought the board last year.
So no, I'm not trolling this thread, I'm merely expressing my opinions.








If you disagree, that is fine with me.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*


Yo Mega Man, Im concerned with your radiators orientation. How are you sure its full being upside down? I mean, shoot, when you go to emtpy it, its gonna self drain easily, lol, but thats only half of 1% of the time you'll be using it...


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Yo Mega Man, Im concerned with your radiators orientation. How are you sure its full being upside down? I mean, shoot, when you go to emtpy it, its gonna self drain easily, lol, but thats only half of 1% of the time you'll be using it...


??? How's it upside down? Pump should be lowest in loop.Res above pump to ensure it doesn't ever run dry. This is "all-in-one" unit. Someone else care to comment?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> ??? How's it upside down? Pump should be lowest in loop.Res above pump to ensure it doesn't ever run dry. This is "all-in-one" unit. Someone else care to comment?


your right it is correctly orientated.

the other writer is wrong. i am working on getting a stand alone pump res and rads, but will be dumping another thousand into it to get it the way i want, so i am saving up. just recovered from being laid off. have monies but keeping them for my rainy days. till then this is great. >52c full load oced to 4.6ghz. fx8350 ( can go higher but board temps go too high, so waiting for the rest of my system. )

till i switch i have to say really happy with this kit. swiftech knows their stuff. works great. reason i dont put it inside the case is simply i dont like the way it fits. no access to the fill ports without modding cases which i dont like to do. it will fit fine.... i just dont like it

back to the trolling your case was not stating opinion, "unfortunately after several good boards/builds this asus mobo has had several problems since i bought it. i think i am going to switch it out for a intel and a different mobo probably from another manufacture" that is an opinion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bicyclechris*
> 
> I have had continuous frustration with my Sabertooth r1 board. I've owned it for a year now, and have it running a AMD FX-8120 chip, Corsair Vengeance RAM, Zalman CNPS 9900MAX cpu cooler, etc.
> I've never had this system 100% stable at stock settings. I've troubleshooted it every-witch-way there is possible, including full BIOS and chipset updates, BIOS setting adjustments, hardware checks, etc.
> I've been dealing with at least one BSOD a week for the past year.
> Now I'm fed up. I'm dumping this board and processor in favor of an LGA 2011 / Intel X79 series board with a Corei7 3930k processor.
> This is not the first ASUS board to cause me headache, but it is the last.
> I use my computer to make a living, and this piece of crap has cost me hundreds of dollars in wasted time and lost productivity.
> BOO ON YOU ASUS for making your paying customers perform R&D for you! I've been a loyal ASUS / AMD fan for over ten years, but not anymore.


This is not the first ASUS board to cause me headache, but it is the last.
I use my computer to make a living, and this piece of crap has cost me hundreds of dollars in wasted time and lost productivity.
BOO ON YOU ASUS for making your paying customers perform R&D for you! I've been a loyal ASUS / AMD fan for over ten years, but not anymore. ~~~~~~~~~~prior to this (these) statement(s) i would argue that you were in fact making a statement and not trolling. but this ( these) statesmen(s) are in fact trolling.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bicyclechris*
> 
> I understand what you guys are saying, but I have thoroughly checked all of that.
> The CPU has a Zalman CNPS9900MAX cooler installed (which is rad) and all temps are all within normal ranges (much lower than with the stock fan).
> I've checked and tested the RAM and EVGA GTX 580 Graphics card in this machine and in another machine, they work fine.
> I have a Seasonic Platinum 1000watt PSU, which works just fine too.
> I simply don't have time to warranty the board, nor wait for a new one to show up.
> I need this computer up and available as much a possible with minimum downtime.
> I'm sure that the newer R2 boards work fine for most folks, but I was unlucky enough to buy an R1 board right after it was rushed to market.
> What I should have done is saved more money and bought a workstation board and server processor.
> I don't overclock anything, I'm looking for long-term reliability, and I don't play games.
> This board is great for gamers and has a lot of overclocking capabilities.
> I can't ague with the hardware quality of this and other ASUS boards, they are top-notch.
> I can argue however that their software reliability has faltered in the last couple of years.
> I've been building ASUS/AMD machines regularly since 1998, and haven't had any issues.
> My last reliable board is an ASUS M2N-E, which I use in a simple Windows 2008r2 server machine at home and I love it!
> However I bought a ASUS M4A78T-E board for simple office use, and I had the same issues as this 990fx R1.
> I took all of the hardware out swapped everything to a different board, and it works fine.
> 
> I'll sell the board, CPU, and CPU cooler locally for $100.00.
> Since my board has known reliability issues and I've used it for a year, I'm giving it away free with the purchase of the CPU and Cooler.
> 
> I also read this thread regularly, but don't post to it much. In fact, I began reading posting shortly after I bought the board last year.
> So no, I'm not trolling this thread, I'm merely expressing my opinions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you disagree, that is fine with me.


I simply don't have time to warranty the board, nor wait for a new one to show up.
I need this computer up and available as much a possible with minimum downtime. ~~~~you admit. YOU have not done it, how is that asus's fault? it does suck that you got a bad board. it is unfortunate ( if that is the problem i dont know never seen used or thought about it ) however in ANY thing stuff will arrive damaged or other wise not working correctly. in fact asus is one of the THE TOP if not the best mobo producers and they would of fixed the problem some how. have had nothing but good things to say about their customer service in my personal experience. you got a bad one. yet hundreds of users in this thread alone have no problems.

side note. if your pc is so valuable and important to your business why dont you 1 have a backup pc and 2 have backup pc parts. i work in hvac and commercial only , now in a server room, they do not say " i dont have time for the mobo issue". they go to the parts closet, pull out a new one and replace it. getting the old one fixed, replaced, thrown out meanwhile the BACKUP takes over. they do that because their computer IS that important.


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> so sell me you sabertooth.
> I need something to run my 960t with.
> 
> -dimwit-


If you need one, I'm thinking about selling my Sabertooth (R1) that's less than a year old, just pm me if your're interested


----------



## FR0STBITE

Where can i buy the SABERTOOTH 990FX GEN3 R2.0 & whats the best RAM for it? What is the best RAM for the 990FX (first Gen) as well?

I have the SABERTOOTH 990FX with 4x G.Skill F3-12800CL9-2GBNQ (9, 9, 9, 24, 33, 2T) RAM sticks but i want to get better RAM's for my board.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FR0STBITE*
> 
> Where can i buy the SABERTOOTH 990FX GEN3 R2.0 & whats the best RAM for it? What is the best RAM for the 990FX (first Gen) as well?
> 
> I have the SABERTOOTH 990FX with 4x G.Skill F3-12800CL9-2GBNQ (9, 9, 9, 24, 33, 2T) RAM sticks but i want to get better RAM's for my board.


I have been extremely happy with my G.Skill ripjaw 2133 cl9 sticks. For the price and performance, imho, i'd say that you'd be hard pressed to find better. You can also tighten up the timings to cl8 for 1866-2000mhz and cl7 for 1600mhz.


----------



## mjhammer

Folks, I would like to apply for membership!

http://valid.canardpc.com/2669276

is the link to my validation file.

Of course I ran cpu-z while it was pretty much asleep as you can see by the speeds, eheheh.

Thanks in advance for adding me, should you decide to do so!!

Cheers!

HammeR


----------



## ocfanboy

I have the gskill eco.. supposwd to run at 1600 7-8-7-24 @1.35v
Mine are stable at 1600 8-8-8-24 @1.35 v
Could be happier but im pretty happy


----------



## Falmod

Got some gskill ripjawsx gonna see what I can do to them soon but as of yet havnt tried changing timings etc


----------



## warpuck

If you dont have a water cooler for your CPU

http://www.newegg.com/Special/ShellShocker.aspx?nm_mc=EMC-SD012013&cm_mmc=EMC-SD012013-_-SD012713-_-item-_-singleitem

$59.00 - $20.00 rebate


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> Got some gskill ripjawsx gonna see what I can do to them soon but as of yet havnt tried changing timings etc


What set did you get?


----------



## Falmod

I got the F3-12800CL9-4GBXL


----------



## philharmonik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> may he didn't even formatted his HDD or SSD (probably HDD) at the time of "migrating" of chipset... and there can be a conflict... happened to me once... from 880g to 990fx.. it was DISASTROUS... USB was completely disabled... even PS2 were not functioning.. had to format the HDD...


So, I took your advice and did a complete re-install of the OS. The boot time is still the same. I realize that this boot time is not awful by any means, its just not what I would expect from this A+ board. How do I go from a 15 second boot time, to almost 20-30 seconds?? I even tried booting the system with just the OS drive connected and still the same thing. All drivers are from ASUS website as well. Any suggestions on what I should check in BIOS to make sure I'm getting the fastest boot time possible? Thanks for the help!


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philharmonik*
> 
> So, I took your advice and did a complete re-install of the OS. The boot time is still the same. I realize that this boot time is not awful by any means, its just not what I would expect from this A+ board. How do I go from a 15 second boot time, to almost 20-30 seconds?? I even tried booting the system with just the OS drive connected and still the same thing. All drivers are from ASUS website as well. Any suggestions on what I should check in BIOS to make sure I'm getting the fastest boot time possible? Thanks for the help!


drivers from the asus website, are usually outdated... download every driver from their respective websites... im still wondering what your problem can be... my boot times are of 12 seconds max... but 30 seconds... did you try updating the firmware of your ssd??

i assume, that your samsung ssd, has read speeds of over 500mb/s...

OR

the dvd of windows that you are using, has some corrupt files...

update firmware, drivers from respective websites, then repost if things are still the same...


----------



## ocfanboy

Sometimes something plugged into a usb port can slow down booting a lot?


----------



## sunset1

@philharmonik in advanced settiongs northbridge configuration initiate graphics adapter ..
is it set for peg/pci ?
im on a rev 1 board so i was looking in the bios for some settings that might help
your boot times..
if anyone thinks i have suggested a incorect setting please chime in..
if my memory serves me correctly there is software you install for the fast boot option.
when the board goes to sleep if you hit a key it litterally takes no time at all to start up with a ssd.

in advanced onboard devices configuration...
turn off any devices that you are not using..
1394 controller
jmb storage controller? not sure if you are using it.. and if you are not using it to boot
you can turn off the oprom ( not sure about raid settings.. so please confirm)
asmedia 3.0 controller.. if not used
realtek pxe oprom (booting from onboard lan)
under advanced northbridge memory configuration.. make sure memory is set to
ecc mode disabled.
if you are on 64 bit i turn memory hole remapping off..
dct unganged mode.. im pretty sure we turn this to enabled. ( double check)
sorry its been a while .. i just fired up the board to do some overclocking for a contest.
good luck.. and you can save current settings under the tool category
it saves bios setttings that you can go back to if you have any issues.

sunset1


----------



## philharmonik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> drivers from the asus website, are usually outdated... download every driver from their respective websites... im still wondering what your problem can be... my boot times are of 12 seconds max... but 30 seconds... did you try updating the firmware of your ssd??
> 
> i assume, that your samsung ssd, has read speeds of over 500mb/s...
> 
> OR
> 
> the dvd of windows that you are using, has some corrupt files...
> 
> update firmware, drivers from respective websites, then repost if things are still the same...


I will check the respective websites for updated drivers. I have the Samsung 840 250GB (non PRO) and updated the FW when I first got it. My read speeds only get around 420-430, when it should be getting 500 or more. Sata port was set to AHCI mode before install of OS. Thanks!


----------



## philharmonik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> @philharmonik in advanced settiongs northbridge configuration initiate graphics adapter ..
> is it set for peg/pci ?
> im on a rev 1 board so i was looking in the bios for some settings that might help
> your boot times..
> if anyone thinks i have suggested a incorect setting please chime in..
> if my memory serves me correctly there is software you install for the fast boot option.
> when the board goes to sleep if you hit a key it litterally takes no time at all to start up with a ssd.
> 
> in advanced onboard devices configuration...
> turn off any devices that you are not using..
> 1394 controller
> jmb storage controller? not sure if you are using it.. and if you are not using it to boot
> you can turn off the oprom ( not sure about raid settings.. so please confirm)
> asmedia 3.0 controller.. if not used
> realtek pxe oprom (booting from onboard lan)
> under advanced northbridge memory configuration.. make sure memory is set to
> ecc mode disabled.
> if you are on 64 bit i turn memory hole remapping off..
> dct unganged mode.. im pretty sure we turn this to enabled. ( double check)
> sorry its been a while .. i just fired up the board to do some overclocking for a contest.
> good luck.. and you can save current settings under the tool category
> it saves bios setttings that you can go back to if you have any issues.
> 
> sunset1


Thanks for the tips. I know I have disabled some of these already, but you named a few that I think I have missed. I don't think I disabled the ECC memory option. Will check it out! Thanks!


----------



## Vlackrs

Something ODD just happened, before this weird change, i never couldnt OC my ram(no matter what) to CL8 not even close to 8-9-9-23 with 1.65v (1600Mhz), but After i changed my boot picture, i could OC my ram mushkin 996995 to 8-8-8-21-30 with 1.50v(1600Mhz) but to feel sure and stable 1.55v...really? i'm just WoW










(Sabertooth 990fx R1)


----------



## Falmod

Its weird to think something totally unrelated would have that effect

Sent from my GT-S5830 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Tweeky

ASUS FTP site is up

ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/


----------



## TND2pointO

http://valid.canardpc.com/2672969


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> ASUS FTP site is up
> ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/


Awesome. Couldn't get a bios update. Rep to you sir.


----------



## Falmod

Ok guys I need a hand if possible, I have an Asus Sabertooth 990FX Rev 1. I cant seem to access the bios via HDMI at all. Could access fine via DVI using a DVI/VGA adapter. So I though ok and brought a DVI-D to HDMI cable (HDMI for my monitor and DVI for my GPU) But the problem is I still cant access the bios at all with this cable I dont even get the splash screen. Any ideas ?? If needed I can video exactly what I get upon startup.

Thanks


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> Ok guys I need a hand if possible, I have an Asus Sabertooth 990FX Rev 1. I cant seem to access the bios via HDMI at all. Could access fine via DVI using a DVI/VGA adapter. So I though ok and brought a DVI-D to HDMI cable (HDMI for my monitor and DVI for my GPU) But the problem is I still cant access the bios at all with this cable I dont even get the splash screen. Any ideas ?? If needed I can video exactly what I get upon startup.
> 
> Thanks


Have you got a dvi-i adapter plugged in? ive read if you using a dvi-d cable into a dvi-i slot you need an adapter

http://www.ehow.com/how_8727166_connect-dvid-cable-dvii-port.html


----------



## Mistral

Some monitors need the mode switching from DVI to HDMI check your monitor to make sure it's in HDMI mode.


----------



## Krusher33

No board waterblocks yet? I would think they'd be coming out with one now that we've got THREE revisions of it.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> Ok guys I need a hand if possible, I have an Asus Sabertooth 990FX Rev 1. I cant seem to access the bios via HDMI at all. Could access fine via DVI using a DVI/VGA adapter. So I though ok and brought a DVI-D to HDMI cable (HDMI for my monitor and DVI for my GPU) But the problem is I still cant access the bios at all with this cable I dont even get the splash screen. Any ideas ?? If needed I can video exactly what I get upon startup.
> 
> Thanks


if you have a crossfire or sli setup, and if you plug the HDMI cable on the VGA that is farthest from the cpu, it will not show up ANYTHING.. however, things will boot normally...

try plugging the HDMI on the VGA that is seated on the PCI-EX SLOT 1


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> No board waterblocks yet? I would think they'd be coming out with one now that we've got THREE revisions of it.


i may be hand making some for the rear of the mobo( low profile, ever felt the heat back there? going to see how much it helps [ VRM and CPU ] as for the front i will be doing pre-made blocks for ascetic purposes vrms will probably have custom heat plate, ill make sure to make a guide/ pics, i wont be using koolance ( no offense ) because i personally dislike their product[just a personal preference + trying to keep nickel outta my loop ( hence why i dislike them )]

i agree with you, besides the intel variant has them as well, it would be cool if Asus made some that looked just like the real heatsinks to keep the look, like they do with the ASUS MAXIMUS V FORMULA


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> No board waterblocks yet? I would think they'd be coming out with one now that we've got THREE revisions of it.
> 
> 
> 
> i may be hand making some for the rear of the mobo( low profile, ever felt the heat back there? going to see how much it helps [ VRM and CPU ] as for the front i will be doing pre-made blocks for ascetic purposes vrms will probably have custom heat plate, ill make sure to make a guide/ pics, i wont be using koolance ( no offense ) because i personally dislike their product[just a personal preference + trying to keep nickel outta my loop ( hence why i dislike them )]
> 
> i agree with you, besides the intel variant has them as well, it would be cool if Asus made some that looked just like the real heatsinks to keep the look, like they do with the ASUS MAXIMUS V FORMULA
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's why I want a wb. I have one of my GT2150's blowing the heat away. If no fan, that heat just lingers and heats up my card that is folding nearly 24/7.


----------



## Falmod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> Have you got a dvi-i adapter plugged in? ive read if you using a dvi-d cable into a dvi-i slot you need an adapter
> 
> http://www.ehow.com/how_8727166_connect-dvid-cable-dvii-port.html


No adapter, Will get one and let you know thanks









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> if you have a crossfire or sli setup, and if you plug the HDMI cable on the VGA that is farthest from the cpu, it will not show up ANYTHING.. however, things will boot normally...
> 
> try plugging the HDMI on the VGA that is seated on the PCI-EX SLOT 1


dont have SLI/Crossfire setup just the single 7770









Thanks for all of your advice so far, Still havnt figured it out but got a few things to try now


----------



## cez4r

*SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 - New BIOS 1503* (2013.01.31 update)
Quote:


> Fixed F8 function is abnormal under fastboot


Download


----------



## philharmonik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cez4r*
> 
> *SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 - New BIOS 1503* (2013.01.31 update)
> Download


NICE!! I was spamming my F8 key like crazy trying to get into the advanced startup. Thanks! +1 rep


----------



## Brizzle

Afternoon all.

I've just migrated to the Rev 2.0 Sabertooth from the M2N-32SLi, as my 965BE needed a new home.

I've been lazy and done a two-click OC and it's currently stable at a tad over 4.1GHz, but a bit too warm for my liking (55C under load - 'old' Arctic Cooling Pro HSF) - will attach validation later.

My only issue really is that my SSD has nosedived in performance - was at ~7.8 in WEI, but is now at 5.9

I remember flicking through some forum posts whilst gathering reviews of the board and there was some mention of AMD chipset drivers causing this. I can't locate that post again, so was wondering if anyone has experienced similar?


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brizzle*
> 
> Afternoon all.
> 
> I've just migrated to the Rev 2.0 Sabertooth from the M2N-32SLi, as my 965BE needed a new home.
> 
> I've been lazy and done a two-click OC and it's currently stable at a tad over 4.1GHz, but a bit too warm for my liking (55C under load - 'old' Arctic Cooling Pro HSF) - will attach validation later.
> 
> My only issue really is that my SSD has nosedived in performance - was at ~7.8 in WEI, but is now at 5.9
> 
> I remember flicking through some forum posts whilst gathering reviews of the board and there was some mention of AMD chipset drivers causing this. I can't locate that post again, so was wondering if anyone has experienced similar?


negative dude... amd chipset drivers have improved A LOT since that post... try setting your SSD to AHCI instead of IDE... should do the trick...

nevertheless, do not pay too much attention to the WEI score...


----------



## Brizzle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> negative dude... amd chipset drivers have improved A LOT since that post... try setting your SSD to AHCI instead of IDE... should do the trick...
> 
> nevertheless, do not pay too much attention to the WEI score...


Way ahead of ya on that! First thing I did was regfix to AHCI.

Still a lot lower than expected - the SSD is a 3GB, not 6.. but I can't see that being the reason for a massive drop. Sorry, I hate bottlenecks









Edit: sorry to ask unrelated stuff in a post, but what's the accepted aircooler for this board? My GSkill clashes with the Arctic Pro. Need an economical HSF that doesn't mask the RAM slots.

validation: http://valid.canardpc.com/2676635


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brizzle*
> 
> Way ahead of ya on that! First thing I did was regfix to AHCI.
> 
> Still a lot lower than expected - the SSD is a 3GB, not 6.. but I can't see that being the reason for a massive drop. Sorry, I hate bottlenecks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: sorry to ask unrelated stuff in a post, but what's the accepted aircooler for this board? My GSkill clashes with the Arctic Pro. Need an economical HSF that doesn't mask the RAM slots.
> 
> validation: http://valid.canardpc.com/2676635


i dont know if doing that thingy of AHCI on windows is the same that on the bios.....

you should've said that your SSD is SATA2... there's your 5.9 score


----------



## bicyclechris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> side note. if your pc is so valuable and important to your business why dont you 1 have a backup pc and 2 have backup pc parts. i work in hvac and commercial only , now in a server room, they do not say " i dont have time for the mobo issue". they go to the parts closet, pull out a new one and replace it. getting the old one fixed, replaced, thrown out meanwhile the BACKUP takes over. they do that because their computer IS that important.


I didn't have the cash to afford a replacement until now, otherwise I would have had a redundancy of equipment as you've so thoughtfully suggested.
I just put in my Core i7 3930k chip in my Intel DX79SR motherboard. Everything works perfectly, and is now way beyond my previous build.
No hiccups, no errors, it just works.

I am sorry if I have offended you by being pissed off at my previous board.

You're right, I am wrong, let's hug and be happy.

-C.


----------



## bmgjet

Any one had problem with the sound just stopping.
Was working came back to pc after taking a break and head phone no longer have any sound.

Tried them in iphone and head phone work.
No driver problem and sound is set as default device.

Re-installed all the sound driver to be sure. Still not working so re-installed windows and that hasnt fixed it so no im sure it must be a hardware problem.
It detects the head phones being plugged in to the green sound port. And shows sound on the mixers graph but I cant hear anything. Using the apple head phone didnt work either.


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Any one had problem with the sound just stopping.
> Was working came back to pc after taking a break and head phone no longer have any sound.
> 
> Tried them in iphone and head phone work.
> No driver problem and sound is set as default device.
> 
> Re-installed all the sound driver to be sure. Still not working so re-installed windows and that hasnt fixed it so no im sure it must be a hardware problem.
> It detects the head phones being plugged in to the green sound port. And shows sound on the mixers graph but I cant hear anything. Using the apple head phone didnt work either.


The same thing just happened to me. I did everything you did when I went to troubleshoot: installed latest drivers/rest bios/etc and still the audio will not work. I'm pretty sure its the sound chip is defective. I just sent it in to Asus for an RMA a couple of days ago. You can either buy a cheap sound card or RMA the board.


----------



## bmgjet

Got sound working over HDMI into my computer screen then using the head phone adapter on that. Guess I can live with only 60hz screen for now and dont have time to RMA.


----------



## sunset1

if nothing else try going to realtek sp? and downloading the lastest driver
sometimes ms updates screw things up.. ( possible problem so i thought i would mention it. )


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceaze one*
> 
> The same thing just happened to me. I did everything you did when I went to troubleshoot: installed latest drivers/rest bios/etc and still the audio will not work. I'm pretty sure its the sound chip is defective. I just sent it in to Asus for an RMA a couple of days ago. You can either buy a cheap sound card or RMA the board.


mine too, i think some static went through the board some how.

for now i can run through my vid card or my keyboard nothing through my mobo ( back or rear panels )

Edit waiting for rev2 gen 3 before i take this down and rma it


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Any one had problem with the sound just stopping.
> Was working came back to pc after taking a break and head phone no longer have any sound.
> 
> Tried them in iphone and head phone work.
> No driver problem and sound is set as default device.
> 
> Re-installed all the sound driver to be sure. Still not working so re-installed windows and that hasnt fixed it so no im sure it must be a hardware problem.
> It detects the head phones being plugged in to the green sound port. And shows sound on the mixers graph but I cant hear anything. Using the apple head phone didnt work either.


I gave up on onboard audio a long time ago. I do some recording and use my audio interface. Sounds a lot better and gives more control.


----------



## Cartel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brizzle*
> 
> Afternoon all.
> 
> I've just migrated to the Rev 2.0 Sabertooth from the M2N-32SLi, as my 965BE needed a new home.
> 
> I've been lazy and done a two-click OC and it's currently stable at a tad over 4.1GHz, but a bit too warm for my liking (55C under load - 'old' Arctic Cooling Pro HSF) - will attach validation later.
> 
> My only issue really is that my SSD has nosedived in performance - was at ~7.8 in WEI, but is now at 5.9
> 
> I remember flicking through some forum posts whilst gathering reviews of the board and there was some mention of AMD chipset drivers causing this. I can't locate that post again, so was wondering if anyone has experienced similar?


are you sure your using a sata6gb cable?
Do you have Trim enabled? Are you running in AHCI mode?
Are you using the correct port?


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cartel*
> 
> are you sure your using a sata6gb cable?
> Do you have Trim enabled? Are you running in AHCI mode?
> Are you using the correct port?


he said it was a sata2 ssd....


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> mine too, i think some static went through the board some how.
> 
> for now i can run through my vid card or my keyboard nothing through my mobo ( back or rear panels )
> 
> Edit waiting for rev2 gen 3 before i take this down and rma it


It was either RMA the board or buy a cheap sound card. I was so close to buying a cheap sound card but decided against it at the last second. I'm trying not to cheap out on components and build a better system so if I were to buy a good sound card it would be anywhere in the 100-200 dollar price range.... which I do not want to spend at this time lol. So spending $13 to ship it out and RMA it was a better option for me.

I do love the look of the Sabertooth rev2/rev2 gen 3 boards though! Especially the gen 3


----------



## Krusher33

I like the gen 3 but I also like the green better.


----------



## CaptainK

Hi

Can you add me to the list please.

http://valid.canardpc.com/2678854

Great job wish i had found this forum earlier.


----------



## chrystal

can any of you sabertooth'ers help me out?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1356383/issues-with-asus-sabertooth-2-0-and-kingston-ram/10 made a separate thread about my ram problem not running at 1866mhz


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> ??? How's it upside down? Pump should be lowest in loop.Res above pump to ensure it doesn't ever run dry. This is "all-in-one" unit. Someone else care to comment?


I didnt see it was an all-in-one unit... physics must be different then a custom loop... lolz


----------



## dimwit13

Help, I'm FREAKIN'!!!!

I have been getting warning pop ups with AI Suite.
I have gotten them before, maybe 1-2 times a day, saying the volts are to high/low on a couple components or that the temp was too high.
well a couple days ago i notice that my rear exhaust fan was shutting off.
It would run at half speed for 15 seconds and the shut off and the come back on in 2-3 seconds.
Well today, it is shutting down more often and for a longer time.
I have it plugged into the MB in cha fan 2, it is the only fan connected to the MB.
Also, the pop ups are more frequent 1 every couple minutes and for different things.
NB/v core/pcie temps to 96c, 12v to 6v.
I have Thermal Radar running and when the pop up appear, the "dots" on the MB layout are red, but the reading off to the right, shows normal temps.
I also have HW Monitor and AIDA64 monitoring, but the dont show any spikes.
HW Monitor will show a 113c CPU and Motherboard temp every once and a while, but it doesn't shut down, so I think this is a false reading.
Is my MB having problems?
PSU? (I do have this feeling it has been slowly dying)
Just weird software readings?
Am I just freakin?
I wasn't so worried a few days ago, but it seems like it is getting more frequent.
I did run a standard 10 run of IBT and all seemed fine, I also ran a quick 10 minute stability test with AIDA64, and all seemed fine.
My psu has been used pretty much 24/7 running since July of '09 on with sli gtx 260s/280s/460s and on my sig rig.
All system where high end systems.

I just dont know.
I have around $400 that i was going to pick up another WC 7950 or another monitor or parts to rebuild my 960t.
I dont want to buy anything until I know that i dont need a new MB or PSU.

So Guys, Please help me figure this out, or at least point me in the correct direction (or tell me to bugger off)

-dimwit-


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> Help, I'm FREAKIN'!!!!
> 
> I have been getting warning pop ups with AI Suite.
> I have gotten them before, maybe 1-2 times a day, saying the volts are to high/low on a couple components or that the temp was too high.
> well a couple days ago i notice that my rear exhaust fan was shutting off.
> It would run at half speed for 15 seconds and the shut off and the come back on in 2-3 seconds.
> Well today, it is shutting down more often and for a longer time.
> I have it plugged into the MB in cha fan 2, it is the only fan connected to the MB.
> Also, the pop ups are more frequent 1 every couple minutes and for different things.
> NB/v core/pcie temps to 96c, 12v to 6v.
> I have Thermal Radar running and when the pop up appear, the "dots" on the MB layout are red, but the reading off to the right, shows normal temps.
> I also have HW Monitor and AIDA64 monitoring, but the dont show any spikes.
> HW Monitor will show a 113c CPU and Motherboard temp every once and a while, but it doesn't shut down, so I think this is a false reading.
> Is my MB having problems?
> PSU? (I do have this feeling it has been slowly dying)
> Just weird software readings?
> Am I just freakin?
> I wasn't so worried a few days ago, but it seems like it is getting more frequent.
> I did run a standard 10 run of IBT and all seemed fine, I also ran a quick 10 minute stability test with AIDA64, and all seemed fine.
> My psu has been used pretty much 24/7 running since July of '09 on with sli gtx 260s/280s/460s and on my sig rig.
> All system where high end systems.
> 
> I just dont know.
> I have around $400 that i was going to pick up another WC 7950 or another monitor or parts to rebuild my 960t.
> I dont want to buy anything until I know that i dont need a new MB or PSU.
> 
> So Guys, Please help me figure this out, or at least point me in the correct direction (or tell me to bugger off)
> 
> -dimwit-


That sounds exactly like a psu issue to me. Any chance you got a spare to try out for a bit?


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> That sounds exactly like a psu issue to me.


Ya, me too.
Well that is easier to change out than the MB-especially with all the WC stuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Any chance you got a spare to try out for a bit?


Um, yes and no.
I do have a 550watt, but it is running the wife's system.
It would be easier to just pick up a new one and try that.
If it is the PSU, then all should be well.
If it isn't the PSU, the new/old one will be used for another system I have in the planning stages. and I try something else.
I just got a 3.3v to 6.3v warning.
If it isn't the PSU, then the MB?

-dimwit-


----------



## bmgjet

Sounds like PSU to me as well, I know my ones starting to die since the 12V rails dropping to 11.28V now and when it does that the temp sensors seem to start reading higher but the temp sensor in the water loop doesnt change.


----------



## Krusher33

That is freaking me out dude. I wouldn't run it any more till you get a new PSU to try.

A way to determine if it's the PSU doing it or mobo failing to protect is to use a mutlimeter and test the 12v line while its running. If you don't have one, they're normally < $5 at Harbor Freight. I have one and it does well.


----------



## shampoo911

ok i assume that the 12v rail readings in HW monitor are not so reliable...

am i right?


----------



## Krusher33

When in doubt on a software, check for yourself.

Really I'm wondering if mobo is reading those values or not. If the multimeter is showing something different, then I'd say somethings up with the mobo instead.


----------



## shampoo911

maybe softwares show estimate results... as they are always something like:

11.899v on the 12v rail... and things like...

dont make me freak out so soon... hahaha

what i see sometimes, are the fan's sensors... they sometimes go haywire and show 0rpm and then the normal rpm's


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> ok i assume that the 12v rail readings in HW monitor are not so reliable...
> 
> am i right?


Hwmonitor is useless for 12v readings. I tookk back a psu once because the readings were so low. they told me it was fine but i wouldnt take that as gospel so they exchanged it for me after me ranting at them

turned out they were right and hwmonitor is crap for 12v readings.

if you want a more accurate software 12v readout get hwinfo64


----------



## gertruude

I have a problem and i hope anyone can help









i got the r2.0 version of this board and i got a rs360 waterkit.

On the old fans that came with the kit i didnt have a problem with rpms etc

I recently changed them for corsair sp120 performance edition fans and when i start my pc i get a cpu fan error warning and it wont boot.

In bios they are showing as 0 rpm and i have to ignore the readings in bios to be able to boot.

i got in touch with corsair and they said because they are 3 pin fans and the fan headers on mobo are 4 pin then this is maybe why i get the errors

The stock fans are 3 pin also and i didnt have errors with them and they showed real rpms etc

The corsair fans are working as intended, though i cant get a rpm reading to verify they are working to their full potential

im not sure why they are showing 0 rpm in bios

if anyone knows how to solve this it would be great

thanks in advance


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> I have a problem and i hope anyone can help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i got the r2.0 version of this board and i got a rs360 waterkit.
> 
> On the old fans that came with the kit i didnt have a problem with rpms etc
> 
> I recently changed them for corsair sp120 performance edition fans and when i start my pc i get a cpu fan error warning and it wont boot.
> 
> In bios they are showing as 0 rpm and i have to ignore the readings in bios to be able to boot.
> 
> i got in touch with corsair and they said because they are 3 pin fans and the fan headers on mobo are 4 pin then this is maybe why i get the errors
> 
> The stock fans are 3 pin also and i didnt have errors with them and they showed real rpms etc
> 
> The corsair fans are working as intended, though i cant get a rpm reading to verify they are working to their full potential
> 
> im not sure why they are showing 0 rpm in bios
> 
> if anyone knows how to solve this it would be great
> 
> thanks in advance


Did you check the pins inside the connector of the fans as well as under the solder work under the sticker? I just feel like it's the fan itself not sending the reading since the stock fan worked fine.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Did you check the pins inside the connector of the fans as well as under the solder work under the sticker? I just feel like it's the fan itself not sending the reading since the stock fan worked fine.


didnt check the connectors but i had bought 3 of the fans and the same thing happens with the other 2









ill check again though

edit just checked again and all seems well with the fans

in bios says n/a for all fans cpu fan, cpu opt and the 3rd fan


----------



## Krusher33

All 3 fans are like that? Yeah that's pretty weird...


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> All 3 fans are like that? Yeah that's pretty weird...


yup all 3

even tried finding if anyone else had same errors but i cant find anything on the net so i thought id try here

its no biggy though just have to keep ignoring the fans in bios and all is well

would be nice to know fans are working full rpms though


----------



## Krusher33

And you don't have it set to "ignore" in BIOS I'm assuming?


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> yup all 3
> 
> even tried finding if anyone else had same errors but i cant find anything on the net so i thought id try here
> 
> its no biggy though just have to keep ignoring the fans in bios and all is well
> 
> would be nice to know fans are working full rpms though


Just a guess, I wonder since the sp120's are a higher
Rpm fan that maybe they are pulling more amps on your fan header circuit? That possibly could be creating the errors? Im not really sure just throwing out ideas for ya. I wonder if there is something in the manual or asus would know the maximum output of the fan headers?


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> And you don't have it set to "ignore" in BIOS I'm assuming?


i have to have it set to ignore in bios so i can boot









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Just a guess, I wonder since the sp120's are a higher
> Rpm fan that maybe they are pulling more amps on your fan header circuit? That possibly could be creating the errors? Im not really sure just throwing out ideas for ya. I wonder if there is something in the manual or asus would know the maximum output of the fan headers?


my next port of call was getting in touch with asus to see if they had a fix or something though ill check the manual too


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> And you don't have it set to "ignore" in BIOS I'm assuming?
> 
> 
> 
> i have to have it set to ignore in bios so i can boot
Click to expand...

Oh but before that it was still reading 0 rpm?


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Oh but before that it was still reading 0 rpm?


in bios it was n/a

i did get it to boot once without the error and in hwmonitor the rpm was between 45000rpm and 800000rpm









after that it didnt boot without it being set in bios to ignore


----------



## dimwit13

Well I ended up ordering this-

SeaSonic X Series 850W 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Active PFC Power Supply
Order Total $175.98-shipped from the egg.
Amazon had it for the same price, but shipping was more.

Again, Thanks a bunch for the help.
I will let you know how all turns out when it gets here.
Hopefully I will have it installed this weekend. (paid $6 for 3 day shipping)

-dimwit-


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> Well I ended up ordering this-
> 
> SeaSonic X Series 850W 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Active PFC Power Supply
> Order Total $175.98-shipped from the egg.
> Amazon had it for the same price, but shipping was more.
> 
> Again, Thanks a bunch for the help.
> I will let you know how all turns out when it gets here.
> Hopefully I will have it installed this weekend. (paid $6 for 3 day shipping)
> 
> -dimwit-


i saw on amazon a 1050w 80 plus gold for 199$


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> Well I ended up ordering this-
> 
> SeaSonic X Series 850W 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Active PFC Power Supply
> Order Total $175.98-shipped from the egg.
> Amazon had it for the same price, but shipping was more.
> 
> Again, Thanks a bunch for the help.
> I will let you know how all turns out when it gets here.
> Hopefully I will have it installed this weekend. (paid $6 for 3 day shipping)
> 
> -dimwit-


Nice! I have a X750 that has done really well. Can't beat their 5 yr warranty. Shampoo has a nice way of putting things in his mouth, although in this case, I'm sure it doesn't taste as sweet as the puppy! Lol!


----------



## alpsie

I´ve a question I hope you all can help answere.
When I go to look at my internet status it show I connect at 100mb only (wired) I have installed the latest driver from intel which is version 12.2.45.0
Is my desktop motherboard, not able to run faster than 100mb ?
Because when I hook up my laptop an Asus G75VW that one shows to connect 1gb wired.

My router is an ASUS RT-N56U

Thanks in advance for any help.
I know this is for AMD types, but hoping you can provide help anyway. (ive also posted in intel version, dont think its bad to spread the question)
---
edit
damn I feel silly, I tried swapping the two cables, and now its running 1GB. But both cables say 5.E on them :S any ideas?


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpsie*
> 
> I´ve a question I hope you all can help answere.
> When I go to look at my internet status it show I connect at 100mb only (wired) I have installed the latest driver from intel which is version 12.2.45.0
> Is my desktop motherboard, not able to run faster than 100mb ?
> Because when I hook up my laptop an Asus G75VW that one shows to connect 1gb wired.
> 
> My router is an ASUS RT-N56U
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help.
> I know this is for AMD types, but hoping you can provide help anyway. (ive also posted in intel version, dont think its bad to spread the question)
> ---
> edit
> damn I feel silly, I tried swapping the two cables, and now its running 1GB. But both cables say 5.E on them :S any ideas?


Do online speed test (speakeasy, speedtest, etc.). With cable, you should get minimum download speed 15Mbs or about 1.8MB/sec.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpsie*
> 
> I´ve a question I hope you all can help answere.
> When I go to look at my internet status it show I connect at 100mb only (wired) I have installed the latest driver from intel which is version 12.2.45.0
> Is my desktop motherboard, not able to run faster than 100mb ?
> Because when I hook up my laptop an Asus G75VW that one shows to connect 1gb wired.
> 
> My router is an ASUS RT-N56U
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help.
> I know this is for AMD types, but hoping you can provide help anyway. (ive also posted in intel version, dont think its bad to spread the question)
> ---
> edit
> damn I feel silly, I tried swapping the two cables, and now its running 1GB. But both cables say 5.E on them :S any ideas?


Take a look at the ends and compare. It requires all 4 pairs to get that 1GB.

I would also try the previous cable again. Just to see...


----------



## wiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Take a look at the ends and compare. It requires all 4 pairs to get that 1GB.
> 
> I would also try the previous cable again. Just to see...


realtek has a tool that can check cable i belive, check their site, btw sometimes faulty cables can mess with speed


----------



## jzohng

hey guys im finally on my asus sabertooth 990x board! i wanted to ask whats a good program or tool to monitor my temperatures and cpu usage from windows 7 64bit taskbar? i used speedfan and cpu thermometer on my old computer. what should i use now? something ez to use. i have the thuban amd 6 core if that info is needed.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jzohng*
> 
> hey guys im finally on my asus sabertooth 990x board! i wanted to ask whats a good program or tool to monitor my temperatures and cpu usage from windows 7 64bit taskbar? i used speedfan and cpu thermometer on my old computer. what should i use now? something ez to use. i have the thuban amd 6 core if that info is needed.


theres a few

core temp is pretty good for temps n usage will also show temps in taskbar

hwinfo64 is a half decent program but doesnt show temps in taskbar

you can also run hwmonitor but thats just volts and temps


----------



## Krusher33

I like CoreTemp because of the gadget showing CPU usage along with temps. But I'm folding so that tool is probably more useful than someone who isn't folding.


----------



## jzohng

ok i installed coretemp. i have the amd thuban 6 core cpu. whats the highest temp limit i should watch for? in farenheit it says 81 degrees in celcius it says 27 degrees.


----------



## cez4r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> hwinfo64 is a half decent program but doesnt show temps in taskbar


HWiNFO64 can show whatever you want in the system tray:
Open it's Sensor Status window, go to Configure in the bottom, click your desired Entry and enable 'Show in Tray' option below (or simply press Alt+T from your keyboard)


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cez4r*
> 
> HWiNFO64 can show whatever you want in the system tray:
> Open it's Sensor Status window, go to Configure in the bottom, click your desired Entry and enable 'Show in Tray' option below (or simply press Alt+T from your keyboard)


bloody fantastic lol thanks for this. maybe i should look in options a bit more


----------



## jzohng

what is the highest temp i should let my computer get in celcius and farenheit?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jzohng*
> 
> ok i installed coretemp. i have the amd thuban 6 core cpu. whats the highest temp limit i should watch for? in farenheit it says 81 degrees in celcius it says 27 degrees.


Highest temp per core should be 62. And that's just a safety net value. So it's ok if you've reached the max for a few minutes. Just don't do it 24/7.

I've reached 70 on mine a couple of times and it's still doing fine. Benched one time and the other time was all my fans failed to come on.


----------



## jzohng

ok thanks guys


----------



## Scorpion49

I've had my Sabertooth R2.0 for one day now and I absolutely love it. Its a great board for overclocking and doesn't get nearly as hot as the Gigabyte UD3 I had before. Super happy with this purchase. I've got it paired with an FX 8320 and 16GB of Patriot Viper 3 low voltage RAM.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I've had my Sabertooth R2.0 for one day now and I absolutely love it. Its a great board for overclocking and doesn't get nearly as hot as the Gigabyte UD3 I had before. Super happy with this purchase. I've got it paired with an FX 8320 and 16GB of Patriot Viper 3 low voltage RAM.


Wow, that's a nice Overclock!







What are you're temps and what are you using to cool the cpu?


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Wow, that's a nice Overclock!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are you're temps and what are you using to cool the cpu?


i doubt hes tried stressing at that clock with the low vcore 5.1ghz with 1.45vcore









would instantly fail. seems like a validation run

still.....its pretty impressive


----------



## Falmod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> i doubt hes tried stressing at that clock with the low vcore 5.1ghz with 1.45vcore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> would instantly fail. seems like a validation run
> 
> still.....its pretty impressive


Indeed. Would love it if mine would clock that well


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> i doubt hes tried stressing at that clock with the low vcore 5.1ghz with 1.45vcore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> would instantly fail. seems like a validation run
> 
> still.....its pretty impressive


lol no, definitely not! It just happened to be the only CPU-Z I submitted with the right name as it keeps defaulting to my rig name while I was testing different combinsations of multi+fsb. I just wanted proof I had the board to post it. The chip will do 5.2ghz with 1.545v, but I only tested it for ~30 minutes so I can't say for sure its stable. My temps got too high so I stopped it. I am using an NZXT Kraken X60 right now but it will be going under custom water in the near future. I'm hoping for a 5.0ghz 24/7 but I have it at 4850mhz right now for daily use since the Kraken can't quite keep up.

I was super impressed I could even run windows and browse the web like that, I've only had a tiny handful of Intel chips that would do 5.0ghz and it was way too much voltage for daily use. This thing is so fun to play with!


----------



## Dimaggio1103

Ok fellow sabertooth owners I have a problem need some advice.

I was rearranging case fans and when I turned on the computer booted to windows I get a warning from the AI suite thermal radar saying PCIE 60c!! I looked at the thermal radar and the spot by PCIE x 16 2 keeps jumping in temperature.

It goes from 20c to 91c then all the way down to -51c. I am in awe off the sporadic temp that is occurring. Is this a glitch or something to be concerned with and maybe re-seat my Mobo.

I really don't want to re-seat as it will take alot of work. The temp just seems to vary to much to be whats actually happening. I have the latest version of AI suite, and am running SLI.


----------



## electech13

quick question..

I have a Sabertooth on the way for my fx-8350 (a friend who is upgrading is selling me his mobo). It states that the max memory freq is 1866 but is that a *true* an accurate or actual limit for the DDR3 ram?
I only ask this because my current GA-990FXA-UD3 board states it's max as 2000(oc) but I have 2133 ram and my board allows it run at that. I can do it manually via oc in the bios or even simply pick the XMP profile for 2133 and it sets it up with the proper voltages and timings and after reboot shows it is running at 2133 and verified in OS with cpu-z and other apps.

I want to use that memory in the Sabertooth or maybe even some 2400 if possible so I'm very curious if that 1866 memory cap is real or not and if one can use higher clocked memory (like in my case I just described on my Gigabyte board), why is it possible if the mobo specs show a lower max freq?
Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

sorry i cant give you a for sure answer. however my sabertooth r2.0 says the same thing (1866 max) and it is still running my memory higher ( settings goto 2400 on stock can oc fsb for higher )


----------



## Tweeky

i am using memory with a frequency 2133 MHz in a sabertooth and it runs at 2133 MHz


----------



## doyle

Add me to list here is link to cpu-z validation. http://valid.canardpc.com/2687027.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2687027


----------



## n9nu

Does anyone know when Asus will be releasing that new 'Gen 3' R2.0 Sabertooth motherboard? I cannot find any information on it....other than it being shown on their site. I was going to purchase another 990FX board, however, I am going to wait a bit so I can snag one that has the new PCI-E 3.0 specification if possible. If it's going to be less than a few months, I will hold off until then.

Tim

N9NU


----------



## Mega Man

"later this year" alot of us are waiting for it .... unfortunately

also amd does not officially support ram over 1866 i have found


----------



## jzohng

hi everyone

i have a sabertooth 990fx R1 with stock bios. why do i want the newest bios and is the newest bios running well? i updated chip driver and stuff but not the bios.


----------



## Falmod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jzohng*
> 
> hi everyone
> 
> i have a sabertooth 990fx R1 with stock bios. why do i want the newest bios and is the newest bios running well? i updated chip driver and stuff but not the bios.


Read the log it will tell you what has been changed in the new rev bios, Usually stabillity mostly or compatibility for new chips etc


----------



## Tang87

Just got mine installed last night!

20130210_001402.jpg 2863k .jpg file

My CPU-Z Validation http://valid.canardpc.com/2688845


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electech13*
> 
> quick question..
> 
> I have a Sabertooth on the way for my fx-8350 (a friend who is upgrading is selling me his mobo). It states that the max memory freq is 1866 but is that a *true* an accurate or actual limit for the DDR3 ram?
> I only ask this because my current GA-990FXA-UD3 board states it's max as 2000(oc) but I have 2133 ram and my board allows it run at that. I can do it manually via oc in the bios or even simply pick the XMP profile for 2133 and it sets it up with the proper voltages and timings and after reboot shows it is running at 2133 and verified in OS with cpu-z and other apps.
> 
> I want to use that memory in the Sabertooth or maybe even some 2400 if possible so I'm very curious if that 1866 memory cap is real or not and if one can use higher clocked memory (like in my case I just described on my Gigabyte board), why is it possible if the mobo specs show a lower max freq?
> Thanks


Sabertooth will most definately run appropriate ram faster than 1866. Have taken it up to 2200 without issue. Usually run my ram @ 2000mhz or 2133mhz depending on cpu and overclock. Not sure why spec continues to say 1866. Amazed at how many people still believe thubans can not run 2133mhz or higher. Maybe I'm just lucky with the 7 different chips that I've had.








Piledriver cpu runs 2133, as well.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Sabertooth will most definately run appropriate ram faster than 1866. Have taken it up to 2200 without issue. Usually run my ram @ 2000mhz or 2133mhz depending on cpu and overclock. Not sure why spec continues to say 1866. Amazed at how many people still believe thubans can not run 2133mhz or higher. Maybe I'm just lucky with the 7 different chips that I've had.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Piledriver cpu runs 2133, as well.


Again i believe it to be the fact that amd only officially supports speeds up to 1866


----------



## spanner1211

Hay chaps bit of a weird one before I bought one 1tb hard drive I was running a 160gb hard drive and a 120 gb hard drive 120 for windows etc etc......then I bought my new sabortooth r1 and it wodnt recognise two hard drives no matter what I tried so to cure your prob I just went out and bought a 1tb hard drive and throw the others lol but now I want a 120 ssd for windows but I am scared it won't recognise it again lol (just one hard drive shows in bios ,dosnt matter what sata slot I use ) so any ideas or similar issues many thanks
Amd fx8350 4.5 h100 cooler
2x8gb vengence 1600mhz
Sabortooth 990fx r1 lastest bios
Asus gtx670
1tb hard drive
Thermaltake 750psu
Corsair 600t se (white)


----------



## jzohng

i downloaded the newest bios and inside is a rom. how do i update my bios?


----------



## spanner1211

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jzohng*
> 
> i downloaded the newest bios and inside is a rom. how do i update my bios?


Install all software off the disc and you will find a program called asus ai you will find and option on that program that will tell you what bios is on your motherboard and will tell you if there is an update if there is just follow the steps it very simple or read the manaul


----------



## spanner1211

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spanner1211*
> 
> Install all software off the disc and you will find a program called asus ai you will find and option on that program that will tell you what bios is on your motherboard and will tell you if there is an update if there is just follow the steps it very simple or read the manaul


Or if I read wrong and you have manual ly downloaded the bios delete it lol and download a software called asus ai and follow what I said lol you get it from asus website


----------



## Tweeky

its *best* to use ASUS EZ Flash 2 in the BIOS setup under Tools to flash a BIOS see manual updating your BIOS


----------



## philharmonik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> its *best* to use ASUS EZ Flash 2 in the BIOS setup under Tools to flash a BIOS see manual updating your BIOS


^^This is the easiest way to update BIOS! Just need to put the rom file on a USB stick.


----------



## spanner1211

To be honest I think that's what I ment lmao I was at work trying to how I did it and that's us correct it also says to use that in the manual


----------



## ceaze one

Just received my motherboard back from RMA and I'd have to say I'm pretty impressed with Asus and their customer service. I requested an RMA number, sent my motherboard on 1/29, Asus received it on 2/1, and had it sent back to me today (2/11)... So the whole thing took less than 2 weeks.

I was expecting to wait twice as longer for it. Maybe the reason why it went so quickly was because it was only a small repair, the on-board sound wasn't working. I'm just glad that I got my original board back since I've only had it for a year and it's been babied and not abused.... I know there's a couple of people here that haven't been as lucky with their motherboards.


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> Read the log it will tell you what has been changed in the new rev bios, Usually stabillity mostly or compatibility for new chips etc


OK, I have the latest BIOS for my Rev 1 board, but I looked at the download site and only see the download for the ROM. Where do I find the log you mentioned that lists the changes?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> Read the log it will tell you what has been changed in the new rev bios, Usually stabillity mostly or compatibility for new chips etc
> 
> 
> 
> OK, I have the latest BIOS for my Rev 1 board, but I looked at the download site and only see the download for the ROM. Where do I find the log you mentioned that lists the changes?
Click to expand...

Right where you downloaded it from it says:
Quote:


> Improve system stability.
> Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us


And if you wanted to see what other stuff from previous BIOS's, you just scroll down and read each of the BIOS's.


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Right where you downloaded it from it says:
> And if you wanted to see what other stuff from previous BIOS's, you just scroll down and read each of the BIOS's.


That just takes me back to the base support page where you can select your model, by model search, automatically, manually, or by entering your SN. No listing of specific logs per BIOS.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Right where you downloaded it from it says:
> And if you wanted to see what other stuff from previous BIOS's, you just scroll down and read each of the BIOS's.
> 
> 
> 
> That just takes me back to the base support page where you can select your model, by model search, automatically, manually, or by entering your SN. No listing of specific logs per BIOS.
Click to expand...

I was talking about where you download the BIOS's, they each give what changes they made:


----------



## Seadweller23

Hi,

I have been lurking and learning. Thanks for all the help.

Sea










url=http://valid.canardpc.com/2690468][/url]


----------



## Mega Man

glad we could help lol


----------



## electech13

updated: i see someone answered my question about the memory speed(s) in a previous post from few days ago so deleted the reposted question.

quoted and posted down below...

Thanks

ps. and do most here REALLY think this board is better or would prefer this board over the Crosshair V Formula mobo as stated in the poll on this thread? specs wise, the Crosshair V Formula (and I know, not the even better formula-Z) is better in almost every way..and cost a fair bit more too..isn't it "hands down" better? just curious as the poll was surprising!


----------



## electech13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Sabertooth will most definately run appropriate ram faster than 1866. Have taken it up to 2200 without issue. Usually run my ram @ 2000mhz or 2133mhz depending on cpu and overclock. Not sure why spec continues to say 1866. Amazed at how many people still believe thubans can not run 2133mhz or higher. Maybe I'm just lucky with the 7 different chips that I've had.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Piledriver cpu runs 2133, as well.


Thanks for the info guys.. been wondering for a while..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Again i believe it to be the fact that amd only officially supports speeds up to 1866


I kind of figured that too..but then why would this basically be the only AMD board I can find that would stop at the 1866 listing? practically ALL others state levels above the 1866..however they show the (oc) next to them...and even Asus..a bunch of their boards do the same...why just this ONE board, stops at the 1866 mem clock level? strange... probably right about the "officially supported" level though..

oh and maybe some of you can read/answer or give your opinion on the question i posed in my above post (the ps at the end)...about the difference between this board and the first Crosshair V Formula..and why many in the poll picked the Sabertooth over it...


----------



## hotrod717

How exactly is the Crosshair better in almost every way? Only thing I wish Sabertooth had was vrm watercooling support from manufacturers.


----------



## sunset1

personally i think both boards would be very happy on my bench. :> I opted for the sabertooth mainly for the stability and the support from this this forum. I just didnt want to make another mistake.
And yes id love to have water vrm blocks on my board.
manufacturers there is a market for these if they had them at a decent price.. wow those things are crazy expensive for what they are, when you can find them for your board.


----------



## hotrod717

^^^^ Couldn't agree more. I just didn't need the few bells and whistles the Crosshair offered over Sabertooth. Not to mention my adversion to RED. Wonder what sales comparisons are between the two. Seems like Saber should be on par, so why not watercooling support?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electech13*
> 
> updated: i see someone answered my question about the memory speed(s) in a previous post from few days ago so deleted the reposted question.
> 
> quoted and posted down below...
> 
> Thanks
> 
> ps. and do most here REALLY think this board is better or would prefer this board over the Crosshair V Formula mobo as stated in the poll on this thread? specs wise, the Crosshair V Formula (and I know, not the even better formula-Z) is better in almost every way..and cost a fair bit more too..isn't it "hands down" better? just curious as the poll was surprising!


I also dont understand why you think this, the sabertooth has better stock cooling, trulthfully memory oc limits are a joke, as the sabertooth can handle 2000+ mhz memory, only diference is the lan and onbord audio really, and if you think you actually tell a real world diference with intels lan over realtek when surfing or gaming, then you see something the majority of us dont see or care about, and as for audio, i wouldnt use onboard on either mobo, so where is the price vs performance warented... in most opinions its not! thats why sabertooth got raited higher on the poll


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> How exactly is the Crosshair better in almost every way? Only thing I wish Sabertooth had was vrm watercooling support from manufacturers.


+1 lol... making my own blocks.... going to use copper for heat transfer strip on the vrms and put the aphacool ( i think idr will have to look it up, atm dont have much time dog just got chewed and is at the vet.... going back there now... just was taking a break.) ram cooler on it ... and making custum copper blocks for rear on VRMs and AMD mounting plate ( you ever feel how toasty it gets?)

gonna see if that helps my temps... will be interesting and may start a new fad lol. imaging AMD and intel rear cpu blocks lol.... more $$
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> I also dont understand why you think this, the sabertooth has better stock cooling, trulthfully memory oc limits are a joke, as the sabertooth can handle 2000+ mhz memory, only diference is the lan and onbord audio really, and if you think you actually tell a real world diference with intels lan over realtek when surfing or gaming, then you see something the majority of us dont see or care about, and as for audio, i wouldnt use onboard on either mobo, so where is the price vs performance warented... in most opinions its not! thats why sabertooth got raited higher on the poll


well that is what the box and website says, also the other board has dual bios ( press a button and run your oc, i dont know if it has to reboot as i dont use it )
both boards have their perks.... personal preference is what makes us not robots


----------



## Mega Man

please delete


----------



## sunset1

@THC Butterz well hello sir! And thanks again for a awesome place to find info on the sabertooth..
sunset1

in other news..
Happy valentines day everyone in case you didnt get the memo..
sunset1


----------



## spanner1211




----------



## spanner1211

My tweaked score I might be a me to push a couple more hundred but got bored of taking side off and pressing mem ok to reset the bios lol that's at
Fx8350 @4.8 wid h100 1.55 volts
Sabortooth 990fx
16gb vengence 1600 @ 1731 +0.1v
Asus gtx 670 @ 1230 wid boost (not top)
1tb hd
750 thermaltake psu

Me and my work mates were having benchmark comps and thay have i5 3570k and 670s msi power and the next score which was close had
I5 3570k @4.2 ghz
Msi z77a
8 gb pny
Msi 670 power edition
Nova tech 800w

Score under Neath


----------



## spanner1211




----------



## mironccr345

^^ nice score, what are you're temps? Overclock you're ram, it'll help your score out.


----------



## spanner1211

Well after the bench about 52 on idle at 32 after battlefield 55 or while video editing about 58 and prime 95 is about 68 :s lol but my every day clock is 4.5 hehe .....I have a little but I find my chip so temperamental it has took me a long time tweaking to get it that clock I remember when I first got the fx I hated it couldn't get higher then 4.3 with out bsod lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> ^^ nice score, what are you're temps? Overclock you're ram, it'll help your score out.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electech13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Sabertooth will most definately run appropriate ram faster than 1866. Have taken it up to 2200 without issue. Usually run my ram @ 2000mhz or 2133mhz depending on cpu and overclock. Not sure why spec continues to say 1866. Amazed at how many people still believe thubans can not run 2133mhz or higher. Maybe I'm just lucky with the 7 different chips that I've had.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Piledriver cpu runs 2133, as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info guys.. been wondering for a while..
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Again i believe it to be the fact that amd only officially supports speeds up to 1866
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I kind of figured that too..but then why would this basically be the only AMD board I can find that would stop at the 1866 listing? practically ALL others state levels above the 1866..however they show the (oc) next to them...and even Asus..a bunch of their boards do the same...why just this ONE board, stops at the 1866 mem clock level? strange... probably right about the "officially supported" level though..
> 
> oh and maybe some of you can read/answer or give your opinion on the question i posed in my above post (the ps at the end)...about the difference between this board and the first Crosshair V Formula..and why many in the poll picked the Sabertooth over it...
Click to expand...

For me I saw they both had similar OC potential but I choose the Sabertooth for its extra fan ports and cooling options. I also wish there were waterblocks manufactured for the board.


----------



## Scorpion49

Does anyone have a problem with their Sabertooth randomly telling you "reboot and select proper boot device"? It happens to me about every 3rd time I restart my machine, and nothing will fix it besides setting the BIOS to defaults and losing all of my settings. This is incredibly annoying.


----------



## Falmod

^ Mine is fine


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Does anyone have a problem with their Sabertooth randomly telling you "reboot and select proper boot device"? It happens to me about every 3rd time I restart my machine, and nothing will fix it besides setting the BIOS to defaults and losing all of my settings. This is incredibly annoying.


Has it been with the same drive + OS install? I'm guessing a messed up BOOTMGR or maybe the sector it resides on is corrupted.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Has it been with the same drive + OS install? I'm guessing a messed up BOOTMGR or maybe the sector it resides on is corrupted.


No, it doesn't matter what drive or OS I use. I think the CMOS battery might be dead though, each time I reset it the time changes by 10 years or so.


----------



## Falmod

Its worth trying a new cmos battery or even checking the jumper


----------



## Scorpion49

Well, I figured it out *I think* and set the OS type to "other". I haven't seen it since.


----------



## holiman1982

Hello all. I just ordered a 990fx (it arrives Wednesday), and I was wondering what speed of RAM I should use with this board and my FX-8350 (going for 5GHz underwater).


----------



## electech13

I just got my board yesterday and this one is replacing a GA-990FXA-UD3 board and has a FX-8350. I'll be honest, can't complain about the Gigabyte board and it performed better then anticipated. Was able to easily oc and get my chip to 4.8-5Ghz no prob and with great temps...I just wanted higher quality hardware with better bios that has more options and tweaks in in especially the vrm and digi+ power controls..this boards has it all.

But one thing that has happened here is the temps...firstly my chip stock vid was a nice 1.325v. On GA board got to 5GHZ with V as high as 1.54v with ultra LLC but temps stayed easily under 52 degrees under FULL STRESSTESTING LOAD and usually 47-50 degrees... This with Corsair H100 water cooler. So very happy there but on this new setup, even at just 4.5Ghz via 1.385v I easily hit 60 degrees at FULL load! I prefer to always stay below 55 max.

What do u think is causing this? Possibly poor reset of thermal paste and cooler? I just had that sweet spot on last setup and having to take it out and reapply paste and cooler again changed that and I didn't get that same cooling connection again? I don't assume the board itself should have made much of a difference right? Especially at lower volts?

Is this common when switching boards and resetting CPU and cooler? I really want to get back to the easy oc with good temps again that I HAD before and this board should have been even better if any change at all.
Please share your thoughts on this.
Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

try lowering llc to 2nd highest setting.


----------



## electech13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> try lowering llc to 2nd highest setting.


I've tried with no LLC (or regular i guess would be the default).. and every LLC setting from that up to "extreme".. basically the same results all the way. pushing 60 degrees on voltages UNDER 1.4v.. strange dont you think? especially when same ship on the GA board was higher oc with much higher volts and I barely could hit 50 degrees, let alone 60! I dont get it..
I did stock auto clock and left at 4Ghz, no turbo.. default vid which was around 1.33v.. and when pushing it via full stress testing loads it get up to 53-59 degrees... I just don't get it.

Do you think it is my first assumption, of it simply being the "reset of the cpu/cooler" on this new board? I re-applied the thermal paste.. as good as I usually do, I'm fairly certain..but maybe it just didn't get a smooth enough layer or the cooler isn't sitting just right? Does this make sense? All things being equal, I assume that *should* be the only factor that is causing this difference as the board shouldn't be doing this I would assume.. there is no reason why I can't run as cool as I did on the Gigabyte board, right? same cpu and cooler.. same settings...actually even LOWER when I go to stock speeds and voltages..so should be running nice and cool..

I guess without any other ideas or options, I'm left to take the cooler off, clean it up, re-apply more paste and reset it and try again....hope this works! if anyone else has other thoughts or ideas.. feel free to share your thoughts
THanks


----------



## Krusher33

I'd reseat... or make sure the pump is actually running. I don't think it's the board though I guess it could be faulty. Doubt it though.


----------



## electech13

Thanks for the info.. ya, pump is fine..so gonna reseat the cooler and re-apply the thermal paste...hopefully that'll work.

One other thing..about this board in particular..I remember reading somewhere that it can be a bit "finiky" with a lot of different memory modules.. Is this true? I've tried two different pairs of dimms that have had issues now.. the first were a pair of Patriot Vipers( that were also fine on the Gigabyte board) that are rated up to 2133... but didn't run at 2133 on this board and basically only worked at 1333 or 1600.. I got another pair of Kingston Hyper X dimm's that are rated up to 2400 (and btw, I don't really want to or plan to run my ram that high but wanted ram that I know could handle higher clocks to help with oc'ing).. running 1866 to 2000 range is what I'm looking for.
Anyways, this second set wont even boot at 1866... at 2133 it will boot but always eventually gives me a BSOD at some point.. it will only run stable at 1333 and 1600..
I did some memtesting and DO get ERRORS when running at 2133... a lot of them.. but not at the lower levels.. but if I run this SAME ram in another system..I can run it at 2133 fine and memtest it with NO errors...

I also just tried another pair of dimms from another system (lower end) and they rate for 1600 max.. they work fine at 1333 and 1600 and i even tried them at 1866 and they WORK just fine! go figure.. boots and tests in memtest with no errors..

This is rather puzzling to me...what do you think about this? Is this a board that is very particular with the ram it will stable? At first I thought the new dimm's were duds but work fine in another system.. or is it possible its a dud board? I'm going to get TWO more pairs of dimm's for testing purposes... at least rated for 2000 or higher and see if I can get them to run at 1866-2000 successfully and with NO errors in memtest...

but either way, if you know anything about this and can help...please let me know

Thanks


----------



## sunset1

@electech13
months ago i read all thru the posts up to what was the current posts and one thing i noticed when using the sabertooth with a closed loop cooler is people putting a fan on the motherboard vrms if they had watercooling. now i know you had this on the gigabyte but just taking a wild guess possibly the oem heatsinks placement or style ? could make a change in temps

. Anyway when this is done i think you will be very happy with your change. (some use the bracket for the clc to add a plate for the fan and set the other side of the fan on the top of the output connectors.
Sorry im a bit rushed with family stuff but maybe someone that has that setup ( i need to do it) can chime in.

Either way a reseat is a good idea.
Sunset1


----------



## Mega Man

+1

also auto will goto extreme on lcc fyi.


----------



## AMDHulk

So I noticed on my 990fx R2.0 that the v-cores get too hot when I overclock so I am only achieving 4.8 is there anything out there water-cooling wise that I can buy to cool more efficiently.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMDHulk*
> 
> So I noticed on my 990fx R2.0 that the v-cores get too hot when I overclock so I am only achieving 4.8 is there anything out there water-cooling wise that I can buy to cool more efficiently.


The v-cores are the temperature sensors under the vrm-heatsink, and since your watercooling, that area gets less airflow. One of the simplest and cheapest ways to remedy that is modding one or two small fans over the area.

I've got two 60mm Noiseblocker fans (1600 rpm max, but 1100-1300 is enough and silent) attached to a straight bit of plastic with some double sided tape which I then attached to the vrm-heatsink.

That small bit of airflow did wonders for my Saberkitten


----------



## electech13

So is this board very particular with memory?? I've tried 6 pairs of dimms now. All 8GB (2x4gb). Some rated for 2133 and some 2400. Four different brands. Many won't even boot at 1866 but would at 2133..and of those they all would have a ton of memory errors..of those i could only use them at 1333 or 1600 and even at 1600, a couple had issues. Of the 3 that were rated 2400.. Kingston Gskill and Corsair none would boot at 2400..and two had errors at 2133..
The best I've done is a pair of Gskill 2133 snipers. They work at ALL freq's and no errors at 2133.
Lastly, ALL of these pairs of dimms worked at 2133 on my other Gigabyte board 990FXA-UD3.. So the memory is fine..

So basically is this Sabertooth board very "finicky" or just a "bad board" needing to be replaced?
Thanks for your opinions and help!


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electech13*
> 
> So is this board very particular with memory?? I've tried 6 pairs of dimms now. All 8GB (2x4gb). Some rated for 2133 and some 2400. Four different brands. Many won't even boot at 1866 but would at 2133..and of those they all would have a ton of memory errors..of those i could only use them at 1333 or 1600 and even at 1600, a couple had issues. Of the 3 that were rated 2400.. Kingston Gskill and Corsair none would boot at 2400..and two had errors at 2133..
> The best I've done is a pair of Gskill 2133 snipers. They work at ALL freq's and no errors at 2133.
> Lastly, ALL of these pairs of dimms worked at 2133 on my other Gigabyte board 990FXA-UD3.. So the memory is fine..
> 
> So basically is this Sabertooth board very "finicky" or just a "bad board" needing to be replaced?
> Thanks for your opinions and help!


no no no.... it is not the board per se... it is the bios.... i dont remember which bios version was the one that worked perfectly with 2400mhz ram...


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electech13*
> 
> So is this board very particular with memory?? I've tried 6 pairs of dimms now. All 8GB (2x4gb). Some rated for 2133 and some 2400. Four different brands. Many won't even boot at 1866 but would at 2133..and of those they all would have a ton of memory errors..of those i could only use them at 1333 or 1600 and even at 1600, a couple had issues. Of the 3 that were rated 2400.. Kingston Gskill and Corsair none would boot at 2400..and two had errors at 2133..
> The best I've done is a pair of Gskill 2133 snipers. They work at ALL freq's and no errors at 2133.
> Lastly, ALL of these pairs of dimms worked at 2133 on my other Gigabyte board 990FXA-UD3.. So the memory is fine..
> 
> So basically is this Sabertooth board very "finicky" or just a "bad board" needing to be replaced?
> Thanks for your opinions and help!


Very odd. I've ran 4 different set of ram and have had no problems with any. Are you using docp or just manually setting? Have you adjusted voltage manually to 1.65v.?


----------



## AMDHulk

So instead if modding for a fan on the vcore is there a way I can get watercooling heatsinks that work for the motherboard? Links would be helpful.


----------



## Krusher33

It's unbelievable how many people request for WC on this board. We all need to bombard Koolance, EK, Bitspower, or somebody with a whole bunch of emails requesting it. It's obvious the board isn't going away any time soon.


----------



## AMDHulk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> It's unbelievable how many people request for WC on this board. We all need to bombard Koolance, EK, Bitspower, or somebody with a whole bunch of emails requesting it. It's obvious the board isn't going away any time soon.


Don't they have universal? It may not look super pretty but its good enough.


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah they do. utnorris had posted up pics: http://www.overclock.net/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-amd-owners-club/2250_50#post_17155237


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMDHulk*
> 
> Don't they have universal? It may not look super pretty but its good enough.


Perhaps, but keep in mind you'd need a vrm block and a nb one, then.

Optically, the vrm/nb block for the Gigabyte 990FX UD7 (EK I think makes them) might seem to fi - which makes sense: same chipset etc and almost identical layout.

That one looks cool (which I assume is part of the reason why you want to put it under water), but there is always the chance it just might not fit.

If you care about looks and feel like gambling, you could always try.

If looks don't matter (that much), try universal ones. Or the cheap, silent fan mod.

Speaking of which: do you lnow those RAM cooling fans - the ones you clip onto the dimm sockets? I've heard it mentioned in this thread they fit rather nicely over the vrm heatsink (though I can't say how good a fit it is - maybe someone else knows?)

As far as I know there's even different LED options of those for the bling factor.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> It's unbelievable how many people request for WC on this board. We all need to bombard Koolance, EK, Bitspower, or somebody with a whole bunch of emails requesting it. It's obvious the board isn't going away any time soon.


Diddo. BTW did you return the 8350? Are you back to your 1100T?


----------



## Krusher33

Nah, I'm keeping it. I've never done RMA's before.


----------



## n9nu

Well...Asus officially released the new Sabertooth 990FX R.20/Gen 3 model just yesterday and should be available soon. I contacted Newegg to find out when they would be receiving it and was told by Feb 20.

You can go to the official Asus news page at http://www.asus.com/News/kIk1zHP0AD787ShcAsus or Guru3D news at http://guru3d.com to check it out.

Now lets all sell our R 1.0 and R2.0 boards to 'upgrade' to PCI-E 3.0...even though we all have 2.0 based GPU's .

Timmy


----------



## shampoo911

meh idk.... pci-e 3.0 vs 2.0... the difference is not that significant.. i've read TONS of info about it... i've seen like 32 reviews about it, and making an average, the performance boost is like of 9% MAXIMUM...

and the pci-e 3.0 being controlled by a chip?? not by cpu.... idk, that's fishy..


----------



## AMDHulk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Perhaps, but keep in mind you'd need a vrm block and a nb one, then.
> 
> Optically, the vrm/nb block for the Gigabyte 990FX UD7 (EK I think makes them) might seem to fi - which makes sense: same chipset etc and almost identical layout.
> 
> That one looks cool (which I assume is part of the reason why you want to put it under water), but there is always the chance it just might not fit.
> 
> If you care about looks and feel like gambling, you could always try.
> 
> If looks don't matter (that much), try universal ones. Or the cheap, silent fan mod.
> 
> Speaking of which: do you lnow those RAM cooling fans - the ones you clip onto the dimm sockets? I've heard it mentioned in this thread they fit rather nicely over the vrm heatsink (though I can't say how good a fit it is - maybe someone else knows?)
> 
> As far as I know there's even different LED options of those for the bling factor.


Ya someone said that they modded it to fit over that part, I also think Koolance makes them here http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=29_66 not sure which ones to get if they even fit cause I have'nt measured anything. They have a little compatibility guide and such but yet I am to lazy. Anyone out there kind enough to give me a shortcut and tell me the length and width? Also here is the compatibility http://koolance.com/help-mvr


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMDHulk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Perhaps, but keep in mind you'd need a vrm block and a nb one, then.
> 
> Optically, the vrm/nb block for the Gigabyte 990FX UD7 (EK I think makes them) might seem to fi - which makes sense: same chipset etc and almost identical layout.
> 
> That one looks cool (which I assume is part of the reason why you want to put it under water), but there is always the chance it just might not fit.
> 
> If you care about looks and feel like gambling, you could always try.
> 
> If looks don't matter (that much), try universal ones. Or the cheap, silent fan mod.
> 
> Speaking of which: do you lnow those RAM cooling fans - the ones you clip onto the dimm sockets? I've heard it mentioned in this thread they fit rather nicely over the vrm heatsink (though I can't say how good a fit it is - maybe someone else knows?)
> 
> As far as I know there's even different LED options of those for the bling factor.
> 
> 
> 
> Ya someone said that they modded it to fit over that part, I also think Koolance makes them here http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=29_66 not sure which ones to get if they even fit cause I have'nt measured anything. They have a little compatibility guide and such but yet I am to lazy. Anyone out there kind enough to give me a shortcut and tell me the length and width? Also here is the compatibility http://koolance.com/help-mvr
Click to expand...

Like I said, utnorris has done it with universal Koolance blocks. I bought his 8350 from him and I thought about buying his blocks too. In this post is a list of the blocks and the next post has the pictures:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Yeah they do. utnorris had posted up pics: http://www.overclock.net/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-amd-owners-club/2250_50#post_17155237


----------



## pendrago

I see there is a conversation about WC here. Well, of course I would gladly have some waterblock for NB and Mosfets but there is not much rush, because my temps are quite OK there with default heatsink put on.

I have different question though.

I need 100 % confirmation that this fullcover block EK-FC660 GTX - Nickel will fit onto this (and only this)MSI N660-2GD5/OC GPU.
Anyone has tried this or has this card in combination with the waterblock ?


----------



## AMDHulk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Like I said, utnorris has done it with universal Koolance blocks. I bought his 8350 from him and I thought about buying his blocks too. In this post is a list of the blocks and the next post has the pictures:


That's actually not half bad looking, I like his idea of keeping the stock heatsinks instead of buying the individual ones and putting them on. Ill think about it thank's for all the help


----------



## AMDHulk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> I see there is a conversation about WC here. Well, of course I would gladly have some waterblock for NB and Mosfets but there is not much rush, because my temps are quite OK there with default heatsink put on.
> 
> I have different question though.
> 
> I need 100 % confirmation that this fullcover block EK-FC660 GTX - Nickel will fit onto this (and only this)MSI N660-2GD5/OC GPU.
> Anyone has tried this or has this card in combination with the waterblock ?


Did you use EK's cooling configurator? It should tell you it does physically if they tested it.


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMDHulk*
> 
> Did you use EK's cooling configurator? It should tell you it does physically if they tested it.


yeap! Saw that and they claim they tested it only visually. So, I am no 100% sure if it fits. It should be but ... you know.

The only card that they tested physically is GIGABYTE Gigabyte GeForce GTX 660 OC 2GB GDDR5 (GV-N660OC-2GD).



and it looks quite similar to MSI



Well, almost quite the same


----------



## AMDHulk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> yeap! Saw that and they claim they tested it only visually. So, I am no 100% sure if it fits. It should be but ... you know.
> 
> The only card that they tested physically is GIGABYTE Gigabyte GeForce GTX 660 OC 2GB GDDR5 (GV-N660OC-2GD).
> 
> 
> 
> and it looks quite similar to MSI
> 
> 
> 
> Well, almost quite the same


Ahh I see well if your card is reference which I don't think it is it would fit perfectly no problem. The easiest thing to do is take apart your card and measure the holes. If the length and width fit then by golly you got your self a match. Make sure you match your card holes with the water block holes. Its better to see for yourself what you have rather than go through a picture.


----------



## dixson01974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMDHulk*
> 
> So I noticed on my 990fx R2.0 that the v-cores get too hot when I overclock so I am only achieving 4.8 is there anything out there water-cooling wise that I can buy to cool more efficiently.


Well I Zipties 2 Scythe Silent "MINI KAZE" 60 x 20 mm Cooling Fan on my VRM heatsink and I'm good togo higher.

EDIT
I never hit over 60c with these 2 fans on it and it was with a 8320 @ 4.7ghz 1.488v load.

EDIT
V-core1 is at 63c after 10 minutes on prime95 with my setup now, which is 8320 @ 4.9ghz with 1.56v on load. 75C is the max before it will trottle your CPU.


----------



## shampoo911

why is everybody getting so high temps on their mobo's??? especially the owners of r2.0


----------



## Mega Man

we watercool and dont have alotta air movement near the vrms and we oc them like a champ


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> we watercool and dont have alotta air movement near the vrms and we oc them like a champ


that's the downside of watercooling.... but i guess that with a waterblock, the problem would be solved... maybe the crosshair v waterblock fits the sabertooth


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah I wanna rid of the fan over vrm's. Got my 8350 to 5ghz but with 1.5+v. The vrm's gets above 70 during Prime.


----------



## AMDHulk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Yeah I wanna rid of the fan over vrm's. Got my 8350 to 5ghz but with 1.5+v. The vrm's gets above 70 during Prime.


ya my vrms climb like crazy above 4.8 its nuts but ya overclocking like crazy is nice i only got my voltage to 1.4 and i know i can achieve higher clocks if my mobo v-cores were cooled.


----------



## hotrod717

Actually I may have to jump on an Rev.2/Gen3 since Asus has stopped updating the bios on Rev.1 mobos. Kinda kills it for progressing on my 8350. Seen that some manufacturers new bios' are starting to better support fsb oc'ing with this chip as my current Rev.1 mobo can't hold any. Makes for a boring chip, not to being able to play with multi AND fsb. I'd like to see the performance difference, if any with pci-e 3.0 vs.2.0 with my 7970.

* Not available on Newegg yet.


----------



## ceaze one

Am I the only one that's secretly wishing my Rev1 board will "break" so I'll have to send it in for an RMA and it gets replaced with a Rev2/Rev2 Gen.3 ?


----------



## Tweeky

yes the last person that tried that got a rev 1 board back

he even offered to pay the difference and they would not go for it


----------



## Mega Man

build one. my idea is

copper heat plate
https://www.speedymetals.com/default.aspx

and this

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18052/ex-blc-1396/Alphacool_X2_Dominator_RAM_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Plexi.html?tl=g30c225s557
or
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18055/ex-blc-1399/Alphacool_X2_Dominator_RAM_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Acetal.html?tl=g30c225s557

minor fab needed. but i dont like koolance ( i hate putting nickel in my loop if i can help it..... so far.... none)

and just for fun gomma build a block for both the rear of the vrms and cpu back plate. even with water cooling the back plate gets alotta heat so i figure meh why not it couldnt hurt.... should be ordering copper and tools this next month ( 3 pay days makes it better for meh wallet ) and ill take lottsa pics for you guys... who knows if it works well... it may even become a fad >:O


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> build one. my idea is
> 
> copper heat plate
> https://www.speedymetals.com/default.aspx
> 
> and this
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18052/ex-blc-1396/Alphacool_X2_Dominator_RAM_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Plexi.html?tl=g30c225s557
> or
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18055/ex-blc-1399/Alphacool_X2_Dominator_RAM_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Acetal.html?tl=g30c225s557
> 
> minor fab needed. but i dont like koolance ( i hate putting nickel in my loop if i can help it..... so far.... none)
> 
> and just for fun gomma build a block for both the rear of the vrms and cpu back plate. even with water cooling the back plate gets alotta heat so i figure meh why not it couldnt hurt.... should be ordering copper and tools this next month ( 3 pay days makes it better for meh wallet ) and ill take lottsa pics for you guys... who knows if it works well... it may even become a fad >:O


I think you may need to update your rig info, you don't have any watercooling listed. ??? How are you going to test the vrm wb?


----------



## Scorpion49

Can anyone tell me which 4-pin headers on the Sabertooth R2.0 are actually PWM? It seems like only the CPU fan ones are as I can't gain control of either of the chassis fan headers. They run at full blast no matter what I do.


----------



## Krusher33

In bios I have chassis fan port running ''quiet'' and it seems to work on that particular pwm fan to me.


----------



## SwishaMane

Hey guys, heres a screen of my voltages. Does anyone see anything too high, or maybe too low? Want to make sure voltages are right, my main concern is CPU to NB. Im not quite sure whats safe, or whats needed for my overclock. Trying to keep CPU temp down as much as possible. vCore is lowest it will go stable. I've primed my rig for 2 hours and is stable, but I want to trim voltages to minimum to save on wasted power and heat (mainly.) The RAM NEEDS that 1.75v to stay stable, it's OC'd pretty good for 4 dimms on "tight" timings. I only say tight timings because its old (2009) and stock 1333 at 7-7-7-21. CAS 8 at 1600 aint bad AT ALL for all 4 dimms.









*EDIT: i noticed the NB voltage is impossible to see, its at 1.3v.*


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Hey guys, heres a screen of my voltages. Does anyone see anything too high, or maybe too low? Want to make sure voltages are right, my main concern is CPU to NB. Im not quite sure whats safe, or whats needed for my overclock. Trying to keep CPU temp down as much as possible. vCore is lowest it will go stable. I've primed my rig for 2 hours and is stable, but I want to trim voltages to minimum to save on wasted power and heat (mainly.)
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The RAM NEEDS that 1.75v to stay stable, it's OC'd pretty good for 4 dimms on "tight" timings. I only say tight timings because its old (2009) and stock 1333 at 7-7-7-21. CAS 8 at 1600 aint bad AT ALL for all 4 dimms.
Click to expand...

Ehmm. Do you really need so much of RAM voltage? I mean 1.75 to get RAMsticks stable at 1600 ? A way too high.
I think you can easily bump up CPU/NB voltage to 1.30 V and see what happens. Before you do that lower your RAM V to 1.65 V.

And what are your LLC settings for CPU/NB section? Regular, High, Extreme? and power section?
Quote:


> *EDIT: i noticed the NB voltage is impossible to see, its at 1.3v.*


And that's the major drawback of this board. I really don't know why Asus didn't make to CPU/NB V possible to see. Oh! Really! For overclockers board? You can use a multimeter but it's quite risky (never have done that) operation (you can fry your board).
Quote:


> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## electech13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> no no no.... it is not the board per se... it is the bios.... i dont remember which bios version was the one that worked perfectly with 2400mhz ram...


I have the latest BIOS version and updated the day I got the board (last week)...but I figured it out.. feel a bit stupid...lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Very odd. I've ran 4 different set of ram and have had no problems with any. Are you using docp or just manually setting? Have you adjusted voltage manually to 1.65v.?


Although yes, this board is a bit particular with ram, the MAIN thing is the DOCP profiles for getting the higher "rated" speeds of good ram.. for some reason I thought the various freq speeds available in the dram section were the "profiles" per se but was obviously wrong..and thus the reason it didnt work..either wouldnt boot or if so, had a ton of ram errors.. BUT on other boards and on the Giga UD3 board I tested the same DIMM's on I could do just that and select various speeds (without the SPECIFIC docp profiles) and it worked just fine..but NOT on this board..

SO when i used the docp profiles...BINGO! worked right away.. i got SEVERAL dimm's to easily work right away at 2133 AND 2400 on stock ram settings.. i still had and have issues getting almost any to work at 1866 but no probs at 2133/2400...and even above! got some running up to 2505 at the moment!

but the catch here (and all it really means is more work) is when you use the oc docp profiles for the ram..it AUTO changes the oc settings for the cpu clocks..the HT and NB as well.. plus changes all the individual timing of the ram...and i mean ALL (15-20 or so)...so basically in order to get by to MY SPECIFIC oc settings and whatnot..i had to FIRST use the docp profiles and copy ALL the specific timings and whatnot for the dimm's and then go BACK TO MANUAL CPU oc and then select the manual 2133 or 2400 freq and set the voltage and input all the timings again...and then I could go back to my personal CPU multipliers and bus frequencies... HT speeds and NB speeds.. and all that jazz...

I'm just glad i figured it all out.. and hopefully this helps some others who may stumble across this issue too. this mobo albeit particular with RAM..DOES support memory ABOVE the "official" 1866 and WELL above it...but you can't just simply install and expect it to work..if so and leave on auto..it'll run at 1333 or 1600..and if you simply just set the freq manually with just the ONE freq settings.. BAD news.. gotta use the DOCP FIRST and then go from there!

Lesson learned!.. on and outside of this ram issue (that was a FIRST with THIS mobo for me).. Sabertooth's are ALSO very particular and DIFFERENT when it comes to SENSORS! 3rd party apps can be labelling differently..and almost all apps that show "cpu" temps are actually "socket" temps or board temps...or vrm board temps and all that.. i was getting confused on this too for the past several days.. but then was advised of the difference! once again..on past boards...was rather straight forward.. again..lesson learned..but now..all is GOOD and VERY HAPPY with the mobo!

Able to oc my 8350 (which has stock vcore vid of 1.318v for me..very nice) up to 4.8Ghz super easily.. and get to 5Ghz no prob keeping UNDER 1.47v and keeping UNDER 51 degrees during FULL stress testing LOAD with no throttling..and on mid level water cooling! am back on my Corsair H100 though.. and with the luck I've had so far pushing to 5.1-5.2Ghz..I might just have some fun and push this sucker further to see what I can REALLY do as an absolute limit (if only very temporary) on just water cooling..long enough to get an oc validation!..


----------



## hotrod717

^^^^^ Glad you got it sorted out. The factory profiles in DOCP are usually numbered ( #0, #1,ect) And yes the speed rated options have to be customized in Dram Settings to adjust timings. It's also important to note that you may have to manually set your dram voltage as well. Once you get a good oc locked in, save them in the bios oc profiles ( click on far right tab in advanced bios). This helps if you're trying new combinations and quickly want to revert back to your 24/7 oc. 1st step is to read the mobo instructions! I know most guys skip this step in most things, but it saves a lot of time and frustration. Lol.


----------



## dimwit13

Hey guys, a while back I was having some weird volt jumps and drops.
I also had a fan the would shut down for a while and start back up-it is connected to the MB.
Well I replaced the PSU and it seems to have fixed the volt jumps/drops, but I noticed the fan stopping yesterday.
I shut down the system and moved the fan to a different header and the same thing is happening.
So, could it be a fan problem, which I am thinking, since the fan stops on 2 different headers, or could I be having MB problems, due to the last PSU?
I don't really want to get a new MB, until the new version of Sabertooth comes out later this year, but I don't want it to fry on me and take something with it.
I guess I should just get a new fan and try that first?

Any suggestions?

-dimwit-


----------



## xSneak

Anyone use a cooler master quickfire pro keyboard with this motherboard?
It appears I can't get it to be recognized during boot - it only works after. I'm lucky I have some cheap usb keyboard I can use.

I'm on the latest bios and have fast boot disabled. There was two other threads I saw from people having the same problems.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xSneak*
> 
> Anyone use a cooler master quickfire pro keyboard with this motherboard?
> It appears I can't get it to be recognized during boot - it only works after. I'm lucky I have some cheap usb keyboard I can use.
> 
> I'm on the latest bios and have fast boot disabled. There was two other threads I saw from people having the same problems.


IIRC there is a setting in the bios about booting to a USB device or something?
I could be wrong-probably am.
I have a Max8 KB and it booted fine.
Is it just a problem with that KB, or are people having problems with different types of KBs?

-dimwit-


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Ehmm. Do you really need so much of RAM voltage? I mean 1.75 to get RAMsticks stable at 1600 ? A way too high.
> I think you can easily bump up CPU/NB voltage to 1.30 V and see what happens. Before you do that lower your RAM V to 1.65 V.
> 
> And what are your LLC settings for CPU/NB section? Regular, High, Extreme? and power section?
> And that's the major drawback of this board. I really don't know why Asus didn't make to CPU/NB V possible to see. Oh! Really! For overclockers board? You can use a multimeter but it's quite risky (never have done that) operation (you can fry your board).


My RAM has been tested over and over with lower then 1.7v and its not stable. I have Corsair Dominators, (8GB Green AMD Edition, old, from 2009) they stay very cool, I have a Scythe AP-15 to cool them and the NB / VRM area, works great. All my power settings are on extreme.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> I think you may need to update your rig info, you don't have any watercooling listed. ??? How are you going to test the vrm wb?


it has been in my rigs just not in my signature.

Edit i put it in my sig just for you








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Can anyone tell me which 4-pin headers on the Sabertooth R2.0 are actually PWM? It seems like only the CPU fan ones are as I can't gain control of either of the chassis fan headers. They run at full blast no matter what I do.


all of them.

you can manually set the fans in bios ( normally i think they cap at 60%

you can make it 100 ect or use one of the auto settings

or you can use ai suite

and get alot more control.

fyi according to amd your safe on cpu nb to 1.35 and from what i have read in this forum ppl bump it well over that with no problems.... not saying you should do it but ...


----------



## Mega Man

derete prz


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> all of them.
> 
> you can manually set the fans in bios ( normally i think they cap at 60%
> 
> you can make it 100 ect or use one of the auto settings
> 
> or you can use ai suite
> 
> and get alot more control.


I found the answer. The only PWM headers are CPU and CPU_OPT. All other headers have a +5V for control and NOT a true PWM function which is really annoying/misleading. To reiterate, no header besides CPU and CPU_OPT will control a PWM fan. Anyways, the problem appears to be with my fans as I can daisy chain 8 random PWM fans from around the house into the CPU header and the RPM only increases by ~100, with only 5 of the Specters PWM I have they all increase to maximum and forget they were PWM fans in the first place. Definitely the fans.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Can anyone tell me which 4-pin headers on the Sabertooth R2.0 are actually PWM? It seems like only the CPU fan ones are as I can't gain control of either of the chassis fan headers. They run at full blast no matter what I do.


As far as I've noticed: only the two processor ones are.

The rest just seem to be good old voltage regulated ones: the so called "pwm case fan headers" work just as well with 3-pin fans.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I found the answer. The only PWM headers are CPU and CPU_OPT. All other headers have a +5V for control and NOT a true PWM function which is really annoying/misleading. To reiterate, no header besides CPU and CPU_OPT will control a PWM fan. Anyways, the problem appears to be with my fans as I can daisy chain 8 random PWM fans from around the house into the CPU header and the RPM only increases by ~100, with only 5 of the Specters PWM I have they all increase to maximum and forget they were PWM fans in the first place. Definitely the fans.


Pluging a pwm fan into a 3-pin fan header (ie: voltage regulation, actually all pwm headers except the two cpu headers on the sabertooth) still let's you control it, just not by pwm signal. But they'll run fine.

3-pin in 4-pin pwm won't work, but that shouldn't surprise anyone.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Pluging a pwm fan into a 3-pin fan header (ie: voltage regulation, actually all pwm headers except the two cpu headers on the sabertooth) still let's you control it, just not by pwm signal. But they'll run fine.
> 
> 3-pin in 4-pin pwm won't work, but that shouldn't surprise anyone.


No, it won't. PWM fans are controlled with a chip and it will not respond to voltage adjustments. It will likely just turn the fan off. This is specifically for analog style 4-pin PWM and not digital 3-pin PWM fans though.


----------



## lilkuz2005

its been a while since ive messed with my sabertooth 990fx mobo, i havent updated the bios in a long time, can anyone tell me what the latest stable bios is, i only need support for the phenom II x6 1100t, i dont think i will be upgrading the cpu on this board


----------



## Tweeky

1604

http://support.asus.com/Download.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&s=24&m=SABERTOOTH%20990FX&os=30&ft=3&f_name=SABERTOOTH-990FX-ASUS-1604.zip#SABERTOOTH-990FX-ASUS-1604.zip


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> No, it won't. PWM fans are controlled with a chip and it will not respond to voltage adjustments. It will likely just turn the fan off. This is specifically for analog style 4-pin PWM and not digital 3-pin PWM fans though.


Let me prove you wrong: PWM fans respond the same way to voltage adjustments than old-style 3-pin fans.

Take a pwm fan and if you have it, attach it to a 3-pin fan controller. It'll change speeds as you turn it up and down.

The pwm advantage is speed adjustments according to number of pulses per second - I think per second, at least - it receives from the fourth pin and runs at a steady voltage of 12v. This can give a possible wider range of speed, contrary to 3-pin, vr fans: they have varying start-up voltages, usually between 5 and 7v.

The fan motor itself of a pwm fan is the same and responds the same as any fan with an electrical propulsion unit: more electrical current = more rpm. Less current = less rpm.

3-pin fans, obviously, can't be controlled by the pulse width modulation signal send out by the motherboard because they lack the bits that respond to the pulses per second, but they do receive the full 12v so obviously will always run full tilt.

But really, even if you lack a fan controller, you should try plugging a pwm fan into a 3-pin header and see it does change speeds.

I'm sorry if I sound arrogant - and I do apologise because I know I will - but please: do your homework before you make a statement like you did,


----------



## Raephen

Oh, and in after thought: analog 4-pin, and digtal 3-pin PWM? I've never heard of those.

Please, would you care to elaborate those terms?


----------



## xSneak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> IIRC there is a setting in the bios about booting to a USB device or something?
> I could be wrong-probably am.
> I have a Max8 KB and it booted fine.
> Is it just a problem with that KB, or are people having problems with different types of KBs?
> 
> -dimwit-


I think it's just with this keyboard.

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1713214
http://www.overclock.net/t/1307423/issues-w-cm-quickfire-pro-not-detecting-on-my-computer#post_18199109
http://www.cmstorm.com/forum/showthread.php?14171-Quickfire-Pro-not-detected-before-windows-starts-990Fx-chipset
http://www.overclock.net/t/1102940/cm-storm-quick-fire-rapid/290


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> STUFF,


I think you missed my original post where I have 8 of them daisy chained together, which as far as I know there are no motherboard headers that will support this with voltage from the board itself. I am using molex power and signal splitters. It is also pretty well known that trying to turn down the voltage on a PWM fan can result in damage to the fan and quick failures or it will just refuse to start up. Some do work OK with reduced voltage but do not last long. The fans in particular that I am using will not run at all with reduced voltage which I found out after trying them on different headers on this board that can be controlled with the AI Suite that don't clarify between PWM and not within the software, part of the reason why I asked which ones are full PWM functionality and which are not.

As far as 3 pin vs 4 pin, its the control scheme used by the motherboard. That voltage control you get with the digital controller chips built into new motherboards simulates PWM functionality by pulsing the 12V line (all of the CHA headers on the Sabertooth), rather than using a return RPM signal and analog square wave 5V control pulse typically only found on CPU headers now. The digital scheme does not need a signal line and can be used on 3 pin fans, but is different than using a rheostat to physically turn the voltage down. The easiest way to tell which way your motherboard does this is with an LED fan, if the lights are very dim at a lower speed, it is modulating the voltage constantly rather than pulsing it. I prefer this method as it leads to longer lasting fans that run quieter with no voltage kick sound.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I think you missed my original post where I have 8 of them daisy chained together, which as far as I know there are no motherboard headers that will support this with voltage from the board itself. I am using molex power and signal splitters. It is also pretty well known that trying to turn down the voltage on a PWM fan can result in damage to the fan and quick failures or it will just refuse to start up. Some do work OK with reduced voltage but do not last long. The fans in particular that I am using will not run at all with reduced voltage which I found out after trying them on different headers on this board that can be controlled with the AI Suite that don't clarify between PWM and not within the software, part of the reason why I asked which ones are full PWM functionality and which are not.
> 
> As far as 3 pin vs 4 pin, its the control scheme used by the motherboard. That voltage control you get with the digital controller chips built into new motherboards simulates PWM functionality by pulsing the 12V line (all of the CHA headers on the Sabertooth), rather than using a return RPM signal and analog square wave 5V control pulse typically only found on CPU headers now. The digital scheme does not need a signal line and can be used on 3 pin fans, but is different than using a rheostat to physically turn the voltage down. The easiest way to tell which way your motherboard does this is with an LED fan, if the lights are very dim at a lower speed, it is modulating the voltage constantly rather than pulsing it. I prefer this method as it leads to longer lasting fans that run quieter with no voltage kick sound.


Thank you for explaining that: I had never heard of the 12v modulation method before (this, I assume, is what you meant by digital pwm? Opposed to the analog, then, which uses pulses of 5v over the fourth pin?), but it makes sense.

I had assumed that by being able to control 3-pin fans, the CHA headers were using voltage regulation with the fourth pin being just for show, effectively. Ah well, we live and learn.

Though, in my experience, pwm fans suffer no ill effects from voltage regulation. The Scythe slip stream I had hooked up to the fan controller of my old case, a Corsair 600T, suffered no ill effects. And the two Noiseblocker multiframe pwm fans in my htpc haven't yet seemed to be bothered by being hooked up to a 5v molex adapter.

But seeing you have, I'll take your word for it and count myself lucky I haven't had any such issues, yet.

Thank you


----------



## electech13

Funny you two (Scorpion and Raephen) are discussing the 3-pin vs 4-pin and PWM vs. voltage control as I was just coming here to post a question about the Cha_fan headers on this board!

Quick question and not really that important but I'm curious..and actually I guess I have some other questions now that I read your two posts and are on that topic anyways...

*My Cha_Fans3/4 seem to be misreporting their RPM's for the two case fans I have hooked up to them. Is this common?*
I have two case fans on them, 1600/1900rpm models respectively and they are basically being reported at around double what they are actually running at (close to 3200/3800rpm).. all the other fans - CPU_fan/CPU_opt/Cha_fan1/2 are all reporting bang on and actually I'm using the same two model fans on cha_fan1/2 as I am on 3/4.. so that's how I know for sure they are working and what speeds they should be... and it's irregardless of the app being used to report it.. either via 3rd party monitoring or even the Asus suite and it's sensor readings..

Once again, not important but curious why this is and if it's typical or not and if there is anything I can do about this.. oh and ALL the fans in use on the board are the "3-pin voltage regulated" kind except for my CPU_Fan that is the one on the water cooler that is a 4-pin PWM kind...

And due to conversations you guys just had...and I think you're both pretty much bang on with the 3-pin/4-pin and pwm vs voltage descriptions.. that leads me to wondering about the fan headers on this Sabertooth board.. they're all 4-pin..and can handle pwm fans..but are obviously 3pin compatible too.. but based on the info Scorpion provided and it sounding like the *motherboard* can also handle the pulse and speed regulation on BOTH kinds of fans..*.does this mean, this board can basically use all the 3-pin case fans hooked up to the 4-pin chasis headers and regulate them in a way just like PWM?* it appears to be customizable in that way via the bios and if I understand you correctly, mobo's can use the 12v 3-pin regulators and basically pulse them in a way as to control them much like 4-pin pwm models? Do I have that understood correctly or no?

Thanks guys


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electech13*
> 
> Funny you two (Scorpion and Raephen) are discussing the 3-pin vs 4-pin and PWM vs. voltage control as I was just coming here to post a question about the Cha_fan headers on this board!
> Once again, not important but curious why this is and if it's typical or not and if there is anything I can do about this.. oh and ALL the fans in use on the board are the "3-pin voltage regulated" kind except for my CPU_Fan that is the one on the water cooler that is a 4-pin PWM kind...


Take a look at your Q-fan settings in the BIOS, and see what is reported for fan speed there. I haven't encountered that on this board, I'd be curious as to what is causing it too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Thank you for explaining that: I had never heard of the 12v modulation method before (this, I assume, is what you meant by digital pwm? Opposed to the analog, then, which uses pulses of 5v over the fourth pin?), but it makes sense.
> 
> I had assumed that by being able to control 3-pin fans, the CHA headers were using voltage regulation with the fourth pin being just for show, effectively. Ah well, we live and learn.
> 
> Though, in my experience, pwm fans suffer no ill effects from voltage regulation. The Scythe slip stream I had hooked up to the fan controller of my old case, a Corsair 600T, suffered no ill effects. And the two Noiseblocker multiframe pwm fans in my htpc haven't yet seemed to be bothered by being hooked up to a 5v molex adapter.
> 
> But seeing you have, I'll take your word for it and count myself lucky I haven't had any such issues, yet.
> 
> Thank you


There are a lot more fans available now that can do both with out much issue as long as you stay above ~5-6V. It used to be that PWM controlled fans would start to function incorrectly under around 10V (stopping/starting randomly, surging) and then shut off altogether at the common "low" voltage of 7V. I don't know what the wiring diagram looks like inside the fan to cause this, I'd be interested to find that out, but I've read it has something to do with the PWM chip that converts the amplitude signal to % speed not receiving enough voltage.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I've read it has something to do with the PWM chip that converts the amplitude signal to % speed not receiving enough voltage.


As far as I knew, with no signal on the fourth pin, the fan saw it as a 100% signal and thus: you're only issue would be the fans start-up voltage.

@electech:

I've never seen that issue with this board. Certain software can sometimes give faulty readings - HW-monitor - but in bios and the AI Suite software seem to be spot on for me.

The only fans I've ever seen it with are are Arctic Cooling F-series pwm with their power sharing tech (built in daisy chaining headers). They, from time to time reported rediculous speeds while still spinning along nicely like they should (so just a tacho signal (speed report) mix up, not the speed of the fan itself).


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> 1604
> http://support.asus.com/Download.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&s=24&m=SABERTOOTH%20990FX&os=30&ft=3&f_name=SABERTOOTH-990FX-ASUS-1604.zip#SABERTOOTH-990FX-ASUS-1604.zip


What the heck happened to the last version of BIOS? (the one I'm on in fact...)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electech13*
> 
> Funny you two (Scorpion and Raephen) are discussing the 3-pin vs 4-pin and PWM vs. voltage control as I was just coming here to post a question about the Cha_fan headers on this board!
> 
> Quick question and not really that important but I'm curious..and actually I guess I have some other questions now that I read your two posts and are on that topic anyways...
> 
> *My Cha_Fans3/4 seem to be misreporting their RPM's for the two case fans I have hooked up to them. Is this common?*
> I have two case fans on them, 1600/1900rpm models respectively and they are basically being reported at around double what they are actually running at (close to 3200/3800rpm).. all the other fans - CPU_fan/CPU_opt/Cha_fan1/2 are all reporting bang on and actually I'm using the same two model fans on cha_fan1/2 as I am on 3/4.. so that's how I know for sure they are working and what speeds they should be... and it's irregardless of the app being used to report it.. either via 3rd party monitoring or even the Asus suite and it's sensor readings..
> 
> Once again, not important but curious why this is and if it's typical or not and if there is anything I can do about this.. oh and ALL the fans in use on the board are the "3-pin voltage regulated" kind except for my CPU_Fan that is the one on the water cooler that is a 4-pin PWM kind...
> 
> And due to conversations you guys just had...and I think you're both pretty much bang on with the 3-pin/4-pin and pwm vs voltage descriptions.. that leads me to wondering about the fan headers on this Sabertooth board.. they're all 4-pin..and can handle pwm fans..but are obviously 3pin compatible too.. but based on the info Scorpion provided and it sounding like the *motherboard* can also handle the pulse and speed regulation on BOTH kinds of fans..*.does this mean, this board can basically use all the 3-pin case fans hooked up to the 4-pin chasis headers and regulate them in a way just like PWM?* it appears to be customizable in that way via the bios and if I understand you correctly, mobo's can use the 12v 3-pin regulators and basically pulse them in a way as to control them much like 4-pin pwm models? Do I have that understood correctly or no?
> 
> Thanks guys


I used to have a 3 pin GT on my chasis fan port and set it in the Q profile to quiet and it worked. I now have 2 PWM 4-pin fans on the same port with the same Q profile and it works.

The 3-pin one has been on there since November and I haven't seen any issues.

The 4-pin pair has been on there for a few weeks now and I haven't seen any issues.

I have seen lots of 4-pin fans hooked up to 3-pin headers. There's a lot of them that do work. But every once in awhile there's a fan that does not like it for some reason. They either don't come on unless 100% or makes a humming sound are a couple of instances that I remember. I'm sure there were others.


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> My RAM has been tested over and over with lower then 1.7v and its not stable. I have Corsair Dominators, (8GB Green AMD Edition, old, from 2009) they stay very cool, I have a Scythe AP-15 to cool them and the NB / VRM area, works great. All my power settings are on extreme.


Allright. I assume 4 sticks need, more voltage (well... I know that ;P). But I have found out that almost all of instability issues related with RAM come from having your CPU/NB Voltage set too low. Try to bump up to 1.32 (or even higher) and lower your power settings in CPU/NB to High. Then try to set you DRAM V to 1.65 V. I recommend to test your settings with this free program (though Pro version is easier and have no limitations free version has.) --> http://hcidesign.com/memtest/purchase.html

You can easily indicate if your CPU/NB or RAM Voltage (or memory timings) are incorrect by running this software. When it shows any error that means you have to either bump up CPU/NB or RAMSpeed is too high (or memory timings are too tight









Here is an example of my Thuban with Corsair memory I use now.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







*CPU/NB V set to 1.35 V*

Well... in your case it could be different but ... you can try those settings and see what happens


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it has been in my rigs just not in my signature.
> 
> Edit i put it in my sig just for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you! Now everyone can see you have 2 identical rigs in a antec 900 case and only 1 has watercooling!


----------



## Helix512

I see I was added to the Sabertooth sheet on page one but I entered my link wrong is there away to fix that?

here is my CPU-Z link
Valid CPU-Z


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it has been in my rigs just not in my signature.
> 
> Edit i put it in my sig just for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you! Now everyone can see you have 2 identical rigs in a antec 900 case and only 1 has watercooling!
Click to expand...

umm no one is a stryker "tuf stryker"

call it what you want... but the man said " you need to update your rigs"... so i put it in my sig since he didnt look at my rigs


----------



## n9nu

Hey guys

I just purchased a new GSkill 16GB (8 x 2) DDR3-1866/PC3-14900 Ripjaw kit with 9-10-9-28 timings and need a tad bit of help on what options within BIOS I need to modify to take advantage of the higher speeds. I upgraded from 16GB DDR3-1066 kit from Corsair (the Vengeance series).

I only have my CPU overclocked from 4.0 to 4.4GHz (FX-8350) via the CPU Multiplier. I also have the CPU VCC bumped up to 1.4VDC. My memory was always set to AUTO as far as speed. I was told that in order to obtain the higher speeds this memory offers, I would have to set a few things manually in BIOS.

I have the memory installed at present and it shows up with a speed of 1333MHz when set to AUTO. I noticed the timing settings are correctly set to 9-10-9-28 via AUTO as well.

When I manually selected 1866 within the AI Tweaker menu, my system restarted and rudely presented me with 3 long/1 short which comes back as 'no memory installed' per the manual.

I don't care about overclocking the memory unless I need to force settings to play nice.

I have a Revision 1 mobo with the latest BIOS, 1604. Below is what I get when running CPU-Z





Thank guys.

Tim


----------



## Tweeky

look up D.O.C.P. in the BIOS section of the manual it will set your ram to factory specifications with the last profile #0 or #1


----------



## Lagpirate

Hi guys, i have a question regarding v-core1 temps. i figured since everyone here has a lot of experience with the Sabertooth 990fx, that this would be the best place to start. okay so here's my question: i currently have an AMD fx 8120 that is lightly overclocked to 3.5 from 3.1. All the voltages are stock, I Oc'ed using the multiplier only. I've ran prime95 for about 3 hours now and all of my temps are fine. Using Hw monitor, my highest core temps were 42 c. However, i am a little concerned about my V core temps. My vcore 1 temps reached 61 c, while my vcore 2 temps reached 52c. Are these safe operating temperatures? I haven't gotten any warnings from Ai suite, but i am still concerned. Could anyone chime in on this?

Also, the picture in my rigbuilder is dated. I am no longer using the stock cpu cooler. I currently have a Cooler master hyper 212+


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lagpirate*
> 
> Hi guys, i have a question regarding v-core1 temps. i figured since everyone here has a lot of experience with the Sabertooth 990fx, that this would be the best place to start. okay so here's my question: i currently have an AMD fx 8120 that is lightly overclocked to 3.5 from 3.1. All the voltages are stock, I Oc'ed using the multiplier only. I've ran prime95 for about 3 hours now and all of my temps are fine. Using Hw monitor, my highest core temps were 42 c. However, i am a little concerned about my V core temps. My vcore 1 temps reached 61 c, while my vcore 2 temps reached 52c. Are these safe operating temperatures? I haven't gotten any warnings from Ai suite, but i am still concerned. Could anyone chime in on this?
> 
> Also, the picture in my rigbuilder is dated. I am no longer using the stock cpu cooler. I currently have a Cooler master hyper 212+


Those Vcore temperatures look well within the limits - I've had higher.

Though, I disliked having them higher than my cpi temp, so my solution was to create more airflow over the area.

If your case can do it, a side fan always helps, and/or if your cpu cooler will allow it, space-wise, even one or two small and silent fans directly over the vrm-heatsink helps.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lagpirate*
> 
> Hi guys, i have a question regarding v-core1 temps. i figured since everyone here has a lot of experience with the Sabertooth 990fx, that this would be the best place to start. okay so here's my question: i currently have an AMD fx 8120 that is lightly overclocked to 3.5 from 3.1. All the voltages are stock, I Oc'ed using the multiplier only. I've ran prime95 for about 3 hours now and all of my temps are fine. Using Hw monitor, my highest core temps were 42 c. However, i am a little concerned about my V core temps. My vcore 1 temps reached 61 c, while my vcore 2 temps reached 52c. Are these safe operating temperatures? I haven't gotten any warnings from Ai suite, but i am still concerned. Could anyone chime in on this?
> 
> Also, the picture in my rigbuilder is dated. I am no longer using the stock cpu cooler. I currently have a Cooler master hyper 212+
> 
> 
> 
> Those Vcore temperatures look well within the limits - I've had higher.
> 
> Though, I disliked having them higher than my cpi temp, so my solution was to create more airflow over the area.
> 
> If your case can do it, a side fan always helps, and/or if your cpu cooler will allow it, space-wise, even one or two small and silent fans directly over the vrm-heatsink helps.
Click to expand...

Yeah I always have airflow over mine as well. Even if the computer isn't going to be OC'd much, I still try to have airflow over them.

I think I remember 90c is max? Again though... go as close to CPU temp as possible. Besides... it seems like the computer gets more unstable when the v-core temps gets higher.


----------



## Lagpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Yeah I always have airflow over mine as well. Even if the computer isn't going to be OC'd much, I still try to have airflow over them.
> 
> I think I remember 90c is max? Again though... go as close to CPU temp as possible. Besides... it seems like the computer gets more unstable when the v-core temps gets higher.


Thank you both for your input, here are a few pics of my case and of my vrm-heatsink.

image(1).jpeg 2635k .jpeg file


image.jpeg 2514k .jpeg file


Do you think mounting a fan on the side panel would be the best way to go about this, or would you recommend putting smaller fans directly over my vrm heat sink? Do you think that i would have enough room to do that? Also, i think that it may be worth noting that i am currently running the bios version: 0901. I know that it is very dated, but i honestly have no idea on how to go about updating my bios. Would this bios update give me more stability and or lower temperatures?


----------



## Krusher33

Can you lower the fan on your 212+ or is the RAM in the way?


----------



## Lagpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Can you lower the fan on your 212+ or is the RAM in the way?


you mean move it any farther right? If so, no i cannot. my ram is in the way


----------



## Raephen

You have space enough for either option, it seems.

Two 60mm Noiseblocker fans - the 1600rpm versions running at 1100ish rpm is the cheap and in my opinion best soluiton.

some double sided tape should do the trick well enough (looks horrible, so perhaps making a frame like someone in this thread has done might be a better looking option).

Otherwise use the fan mounts on your side panel to blow fresh air in.

Good kuck!


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> You have space enough for either option, it seems.
> 
> Two 60mm Noiseblocker fans - the 1600rpm versions running at 1100ish rpm is the cheap and in my opinion best soluiton.
> 
> some double sided tape should do the trick well enough (looks horrible, so perhaps making a frame like someone in this thread has done might be a better looking option).
> 
> Otherwise use the fan mounts on your side panel to blow fresh air in.
> 
> Good kuck!


I solved this issue for myself a while ago, i bought a kingston hyper x ram cooler. As is out of the box it clips over the top of the atx plug and the bottom heatsink. I have since shortened my cpu block inlet water tube so had to remove the double led fan from the chassis and legs and use it like that instead, im now running a fx8320 with 1.58 vcore through it and my vrm`s never go above 60c. If you scroll my profile there is a photo of it in one of the albums


----------



## xSneak

Is it just me, or is it impossible to eject usb devices with this motherboard?


----------



## phenom2

Gen3 or Sabertooth R2.0 ? In shops I can find only the R2.0...but the new Gen3 seems to not have a pci-ex 1x?! What are the main differences between them? Wich one do you advice me?


----------



## hotrod717

Asus download page for Rev.1 seems to be back up and running. I couldn't access it for several weeks to back up some bios' and drivers. Just a FYI, in case anybody else needed to get something.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phenom2*
> 
> Gen3 or Sabertooth R2.0 ? In shops I can find only the R2.0...but the new Gen3 seems to not have a pci-ex 1x?! What are the main differences between them? Wich one do you advice me?


you can put pciex1 into any pcie slot x4 x8 and x16 slots are completely compatible.

also gen3 is NOT out yet


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

im not sure if this has ever been discussed because i am lazy and don't want to read through this entire thread..... but I have a Saber R2.0 on Bios 1503

I am trying to drop my ram timings down and I have noticed that it doesn't like to save my settings if I change one thing in the Ram timings.. has anyone else noticed this issue? and is there a work around?


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> im not sure if this has ever been discussed because i am lazy and don't want to read through this entire thread..... but I have a Saber R2.0 on Bios 1503
> 
> I am trying to drop my ram timings down and I have noticed that it doesn't like to save my settings if I change one thing in the Ram timings.. has anyone else noticed this issue? and is there a work around?


Yes it happens to everyone

You need to change the number then push the down arrow on your keyboard.

The reason it isn't saving is that you are still in the field when you clicked to save the bios.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Yes it happens to everyone
> 
> You need to change the number then push the down arrow on your keyboard.
> 
> The reason it isn't saving is that you are still in the field when you clicked to save the bios.


thats a bit odd haha ill check that out


----------



## givmedew

Let me know but I am almost certain that was your problem.

I believe the issue is across all ASUS board that use the nice new GUI.

I also believe the issue is for almost all fields that you can enter a value manually into.

Same goes for auto I believe if you type a or auto and don't hit enter up or down or click off the field it will not save that you set it to auto.

Drop down fields don't count so setting them takes no matter what you do after it as long as you save the settings.

If you go to another field in any menu it will be fine. Possibly even just changing a menu is fine but clicking on the thing at the top right doesn't make it count as a menu change.

Because I have a 6400 dpi mouse and because of stuff like that I have decided to only use the keyboard.

So for me I use the arrows to get to save.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Let me know but I am almost certain that was your problem.
> 
> I believe the issue is across all ASUS board that use the nice new GUI.
> 
> I also believe the issue is for almost all fields that you can enter a value manually into.
> 
> Same goes for auto I believe if you type a or auto and don't hit enter up or down or click off the field it will not save that you set it to auto.
> 
> Drop down fields don't count so setting them takes no matter what you do after it as long as you save the settings.
> 
> If you go to another field in any menu it will be fine. Possibly even just changing a menu is fine but clicking on the thing at the top right doesn't make it count as a menu change.
> 
> Because I have a 6400 dpi mouse and because of stuff like that I have decided to only use the keyboard.
> 
> So for me I use the arrows to get to save.


well i was hitting enter..


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> well i was hitting enter..
Click to expand...

So are you still having the issue or did the up down thing work for you?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> So are you still having the issue or did the up down thing work for you?


just tried and yeah i have to move it up and down.. thank you


----------



## lucas.vulcan

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/42/2013021400h46voltagecpu.png/

Pseudo : Lucas
Processeur : AMD FX-8350 @ 4615 MHZ
Refroidissement CPU : (ANTEC 920)
Carte mère : SABERTOOTH 990 FX R2.0
Mémoire : PATRIOT @ 16GO 1866MHZ 9-11-9-27-1T
Carte graphique : Crossfire ATI HD 7970 @ 1125/1575
Refroidissement 3D : : ANTEC 920 x2
Pilotes : Catalyst 13.1
Système d'exploitation : W7 ultimate 64bits

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/854/3dmark11crossfireoc.png/

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2715100

http://valid.canardpc.com/2715100

Under OCCT test for 8H `and` NO ERROR
CPU Vcore with all the right example of stability.


----------



## Scorpion49

Anyone running 2400mhz RAM with the R2.0 board?


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Anyone running 2400mhz RAM with the R2.0 board?


Why? What you trying to do?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Why? What you trying to do?


Uh, be a cool kid like the Intel guys? Just being curious. I remember seeing a lot of people that couldn't run past 1600 with PII.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Uh, be a cool kid like the Intel guys? Just being curious. I remember seeing a lot of people that couldn't run past 1600 with PII.


I know that you can get 2133 to work.. just not sure of 2400 but i believe so


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Uh, be a cool kid like the Intel guys? Just being curious. I remember seeing a lot of people that couldn't run past 1600 with PII.


That has to do with the IMC on the processor itself, not the motherboard.

And people could get it past 1600 but it took a lot of finagling. Besides, on Phenom II's, there's hardly any performance gains with anything over 1600 RAM.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> That has to do with the IMC on the processor itself, not the motherboard.
> 
> And people could get it past 1600 but it took a lot of finagling. Besides, on Phenom II's, there's hardly any performance gains with anything over 1600 RAM.


I realize that, but I haven't seen anyone really trying to run high speed kits on an AM3+ board recently. I ordered a set of 2400 hoping I can run it around 1800-2000 with tighter timings but I might try it at XMP speeds and see if there is any benefit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> I know that you can get 2133 to work.. just not sure of 2400 but i believe so


We'll see. Also, where the heck did my multiquote button go?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I realize that, but I haven't seen anyone really trying to run high speed kits on an AM3+ board recently. I ordered a set of 2400 hoping I can run it around 1800-2000 with tighter timings but I might try it at XMP speeds and see if there is any benefit.
> We'll see. Also, where the heck did my multiquote button go?


I run my 1866 ram at 2022 i know others have higher clocks... I want to say I have seen the 2400 being ran but im not 100% sure thats why i left it open ended.. this board doesn't directly state its compatable.. but i would imagine it will work


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> I run my 1866 ram at 2022 i know others have higher clocks... I want to say I have seen the 2400 being ran but im not 100% sure thats why i left it open ended.. this board doesn't directly state its compatable.. but i would imagine it will work


Cool, thanks. Well I will post back with results then, although I bet the individual chip has more to do with if the IMC can handle it or not. Its only an 8GB kit so hopefully there will be no issues.


----------



## SwishaMane

I don't remember... If I update (flash) my BIOS, will it delete my saved BIOS profiles?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I don't remember... If I update (flash) my BIOS, will it delete my saved BIOS profiles?


it did for me


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I don't remember... If I update (flash) my BIOS, will it delete my saved BIOS profiles?


did for me too


----------



## Mega Man

yes it will


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I don't remember... If I update (flash) my BIOS, will it delete my saved BIOS profiles?


I have had a update that it did not and I had an update that it did. I am almost certain of that. I would write down your settings or screen shot them.


----------



## Krusher33

Chances are... your current settings will either not work anyways or if it did, you could tweak it.


----------



## JayMacc81

Hey guys. Help a newb. I have a post about OC and Bios Reguarding Bios settings etc under AMD general if you would be so kind. Thanks


----------



## Scorpion49

Copied from my post in the 8320/8350 thread: I got the 2400mhz RAM working with my 8320 and Sabertooth. Still need to test it for stability but it was quite a battle to even get booted. DOCP does not work, had to manually set everything. Also had to increase voltage to 1.675 to get Windows to play nice but everything seems fine right now.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Copied from my post in the 8320/8350 thread: I got the 2400mhz RAM working with my 8320 and Sabertooth. Still need to test it for stability but it was quite a battle to even get booted. DOCP does not work, had to manually set everything. Also had to increase voltage to 1.675 to get Windows to play nice but everything seems fine right now.


Can you please tell me what other timings you changed??? i have not had much luck and i have near the same setup as you Saberkitty2.0 and 8350

Edit

i can get it to boot, just always fails prime.... will even pass IBT


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Can you please tell me what other timings you changed??? i have not had much luck and i have near the same setup as you Saberkitty2.0 and 8350
> 
> Edit
> 
> i can get it to boot, just always fails prime.... will even pass IBT


What version of P95 do you have? I had issues failing all the time until I got 27.9.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> What version of P95 do you have? I had issues failing all the time until I got 27.9.


27.9

it hates my pc i can oc via cpu multi but the moment i change fsb or timings ( in including memory speed ) it hates it in prime..... i can pass ibt, and any other benchmark i feel like throwing ..... just not prime

edit

we will find out soon ordered gskill 2400 cl10 units....... saberkitty likes to be picky with memory.... but will operate ( so far ) with no problem on stock settings for ram ( yea over 1333 is technically oced but you know what i mean )

may have to run them @ 2133 as some amds dont like higher speeds i know but at least it is faster then any of the 1600 sticks i have

worst case i will get to do 1866 with TIGHT timings....cl9 i dont think is bad at all

got 32gb (8gb sticks) 16 this pc 16 for my wifes....


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 27.9
> 
> it hates my pc i can oc via cpu multi but the moment i change fsb or timings ( incluing memory speed ) it hates it in prime..... i can pass ibt, and any other benchmark i feel like throwing ..... just not prime


I had to change a lot of things to auto to get it to work right, it kept wanting to put the memory at 1600 no matter what until I set it up like this.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I had to change a lot of things to auto to get it to work right, it kept wanting to put the memory at 1600 no matter what until I set it up like this.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


thanks

edit also thought this was the samsung miracle ram thread... i have them as well and i can get them to 2400 and boot... just not stable


----------



## Scorpion49

Does anyone have aftermarket cooling on the SB on this board? I noticed mine is very very hot to the touch although there don't seem to be any temp sensors there. I can't seem to find a decent universal block but I was wondering about a universal heatsink with fan maybe?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> thanks
> 
> edit also thought this was the samsung miracle ram thread... i have them as well and i can get them to 2400 and boot... just not stable


I have never has luck with the sammies over 2000mhz, but I have had several kits that were stable at exactly 2000mhz with relatively low timings. I wish we still could get low density CAS 7 and 8 kits for 2000mhz+.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Does anyone have aftermarket cooling on the SB on this board? I noticed mine is very very hot to the touch although there don't seem to be any temp sensors there. I can't seem to find a decent universal block but I was wondering about a universal heatsink with fan maybe?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> thanks
> 
> edit also thought this was the samsung miracle ram thread... i have them as well and i can get them to 2400 and boot... just not stable
> 
> 
> 
> I have never has luck with the sammies over 2000mhz, but I have had several kits that were stable at exactly 2000mhz with relatively low timings. I wish we still could get low density CAS 7 and 8 kits for 2000mhz+.
Click to expand...

I thought one of the temps was for that. It didn't seem like they where to worried about the temps when they made the heat sink for it because I really can't see the ceramic flat heat sink out performing a typical aluminum one with fins. I would say aim a fan at it but without fins I don't think it would make a big difference.

Cooling the VRM heatsink with a little fan directly over the top of them makes a big difference in the VRM thermals and can even effect the temperature of the CPU itself. If you can hold your finger on it for 3 or 4 seconds without it hurting a lot then it isn't too hot. 80c hurts!


That tiny little fan made a huge difference on my VRM and CPU thermals. You could use a similar size fan to blow at the SB but I just don't see it making a difference.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Does anyone have aftermarket cooling on the SB on this board? I noticed mine is very very hot to the touch although there don't seem to be any temp sensors there. I can't seem to find a decent universal block but I was wondering about a universal heatsink with fan maybe?


As of last night I am glad I have a fan blowing over mine. I had to make a fan mount to blow over my GPU's VRM's. Ended up making a mount that holds 2 80mm fans and one is just above the SB. Last night I was making some adjustments and had to remove that fan mount. Before putting it back on, I did some stress testing. Without that mount, the SB got quite warm to the touch. Not untouchable hot, but warm enough that I only noticed that there was heat coming from it when my hand was near it. I had to touch it to see how hot.

But if it's quite hot and you don't have it over-volted much... then I say you may need to do a reseat on it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Does anyone have aftermarket cooling on the SB on this board? I noticed mine is very very hot to the touch although there don't seem to be any temp sensors there. I can't seem to find a decent universal block but I was wondering about a universal heatsink with fan maybe?
> I have never has luck with the sammies over 2000mhz, but I have had several kits that were stable at exactly 2000mhz with relatively low timings. I wish we still could get low density CAS 7 and 8 kits for 2000mhz+.


did you take off the plastic that is on it ? there is a plastic protection on it so it doesn't get scratched ( like whats on plexiglass....) hard to see but it holds heat in .... and you need to take it off... sb shouldnt get hot at all if you have taken off the plastic..

if you are still having probs and have taken it off you should reseat it ... new tim and everything.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> did you take off the plastic that is on it ? there is a plastic protection on it so it doesn't get scratched ( like whats on plexiglass....) hard to see but it holds heat in .... and you need to take it off... sb shouldnt get hot at all if you have taken off the plastic..
> 
> if you are still having probs and have taken it off you should reseat it ... new tim and everything.


Mine didn't have plastic on it to begin with, anywhere on the board.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> As of last night I am glad I have a fan blowing over mine. I had to make a fan mount to blow over my GPU's VRM's. Ended up making a mount that holds 2 80mm fans and one is just above the SB. Last night I was making some adjustments and had to remove that fan mount. Before putting it back on, I did some stress testing. Without that mount, the SB got quite warm to the touch. Not untouchable hot, but warm enough that I only noticed that there was heat coming from it when my hand was near it. I had to touch it to see how hot.
> 
> But if it's quite hot and you don't have it over-volted much... then I say you may need to do a reseat on it.


It is very hot to the touch, but if I do a reseat I have to take apart my whole loop and pull the board out. If I do that I might as well put a block on it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Mine didn't have plastic on it to begin with, anywhere on the board.
> It is very hot to the touch, but if I do a reseat I have to take apart my whole loop and pull the board out. If I do that I might as well put a block on it.


it really does ON THE SOUTH BRIDGE EMBLEM !

i didnt see mine at first either
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> Important notes:
> There is a clear sticker over the south bridge heat sync that may be unseen but its there be sure to remove it as it holds in heat!!!


in the first post on this thread

also putting a block on it interferes with using longer pci and pcie cards in it


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it really does ON THE SOUTH BRIDGE EMBLEM !
> 
> i didnt see mine at first either
> in the first post on this thread
> 
> also putting a block on it interferes with using longer pci and pcie cards in it


I just double checked to be sure, but there are no stickers. I believe my board was an open-box at Fry's because the I/O was out of the bag, but it works well so I did not return it. It was probably removed before then, because usually Asus has stickers all over like on the RAM slots and such, mine had none.

As far as blocking the ports, that is an issue for the future. My current build doesn't extend over them with the GTX 660's with waterblocks but it could be inconvenient later on.


----------



## MrSingh

Been using the Sabertooth 990fx r2.0 for about a week now, still overclocking!! Got 4.8ghz stable on fx-8350 with Antec 920 kuhler(cooler). I swapped out a Corsair H60 for it because my temps maxed out at 4.6ghz, (62-65 core, 72-75 socket). With the Antec 920 ive gotten 4.8ghz at max temps (61 core, 71 socket).

I`m thinking of ways I can get better cooling, maybe using better thermal paste like the m-4, currently I used the preapplied paste that came with the Antec 920. And thinking about installing a fan behind the socket into the towers case.(A slim 120mm or 140mm fan)

The board is doing great tho, largely satisfied!!

v


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSingh*
> 
> Been using the Sabertooth 990fx r2.0 for about a week now, still overclocking!! Got 4.8ghz stable on fx-8350 with Antec 920 kuhler(cooler). I swapped out a Corsair H60 for it because my temps maxed out at 4.6ghz, (62-65 core, 72-75 socket). With the Antec 920 ive gotten 4.8ghz at max temps (61 core, 71 socket).
> 
> I`m thinking of ways I can get better cooling, maybe using better thermal paste like the m-4, currently I used the preapplied paste that came with the Antec 920. And thinking about installing a fan behind the socket into the towers case.(A slim 120mm or 140mm fan)
> 
> The board is doing great tho, largely satisfied!!
> 
> v


Congrats... I did some testing before that implied that putting a fan behind the socket or a fan over the top of the VRMs will actually cause not only the VRMs to go down in temperature but the CPU as well since the hotter the VRMs get the hotter the CPU gets because they are all attached one way or another through components and traces.

Click on this link to see some of the info I collected.

Also same tests performed on an Intel board and suggests that if the VRMs are not very hot that cooling them will not decrease CPU temps.


----------



## xSneak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Copied from my post in the 8320/8350 thread: I got the 2400mhz RAM working with my 8320 and Sabertooth. Still need to test it for stability but it was quite a battle to even get booted. DOCP does not work, had to manually set everything. Also had to increase voltage to 1.675 to get Windows to play nice but everything seems fine right now.











What settings did you use to get the ram stable at that speed?

I can't seem to get my 2133 ram stable for the life of me. It passes memtest, but won't pass prime95 blend for longer than one hour.

what are all your voltages and digi power settings?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xSneak*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What settings did you use to get the ram stable at that speed?
> 
> I can't seem to get my 2133 ram stable for the life of me. It passes memtest, but won't pass prime95 blend for longer than one hour.
> 
> what are all your voltages and digi power settings?


Honestly I put in the main timings and had to set the rest to auto, it wouldn't take the timings off of the RAM technical info. I had to up the DRAM voltage to 1.675 to compensate for vdroop, but you have to remember the NB frequency has to be at or above the DRAM frequency so that is probably where your instability is coming from. I know my NB wouldn't go to 2400 unless I added some voltage to it, running it in offset right now with +.0150V.


----------



## xSneak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Honestly I put in the main timings and had to set the rest to auto, it wouldn't take the timings off of the RAM technical info. I had to up the DRAM voltage to 1.675 to compensate for vdroop, but you have to remember the NB frequency has to be at or above the DRAM frequency so that is probably where your instability is coming from. I know my NB wouldn't go to 2400 unless I added some voltage to it, running it in offset right now with +.0150V.


I don't think the board will let me put the nb below dram frequency.

currently, i'm running it at
250 fsb
2006 Dram
CPU/NB 2500
HTT 2500

I just upped my dram voltage to 1.640, with the power phase set on extreme and voltage frequency at 450Khz.


----------



## Krusher33

It also depends on the chip. Are we talking about Thuban, Bulldozer, or Piledriver? I know with Piledriver it's NB >= memory speed and Thuban it's NB >= 1.5 * memory speed. I don't know about Bulldozer.


----------



## xSneak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> It also depends on the chip. Are we talking about Thuban, Bulldozer, or Piledriver? I know with Piledriver it's NB >= memory speed and Thuban it's NB >= 1.5 * memory speed. I don't know about Bulldozer.


I'm on piledriver.

does vddr help anything ? I've been messing with that voltage too.


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xSneak*
> 
> I don't think the board will let me put the nb below dram frequency.
> 
> currently, i'm running it at
> 250 fsb
> 2006 Dram
> CPU/NB 2500
> HTT 2500
> 
> I just upped my dram voltage to 1.640, with the power phase set on extreme and voltage frequency at 450Khz.


Well, actually I struggle with higher RAM speeds (and tight timings) myself. I came to this point -->


Spoiler: Screenshot







But all these settings are not quite optimized. It's a Bulldozer and to get your CPU/NB works at 2600 MHz it needs an awfully lot of voltage --> 1.3818 V in BIOS, CPU/NB LLC set to High. On the other hand it surely speeds up RAM.



I have tried a lot of configurations. The RAM is stable though timings are not quite what I would like to have








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> It also depends on the chip. Are we talking about Thuban, Bulldozer, or Piledriver? I know with Piledriver it's NB >= memory speed and Thuban it's NB >= 1.5 * memory speed. I don't know about Bulldozer.
> 
> I'm on piledriver.
> 
> does vddr help anything ? I've been messing with that voltage too.


I have tried also upping VDDR V to 1.2100 - 1.2150. It may bring some stability to your system but I assume it heats up RAM sticks ... so, really I just don't know how high can VDDR be not to stressing DRAM too much.


----------



## xSneak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Well, actually I struggle with higher RAM speeds (and tight timings) myself. I came to this point -->
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Screenshot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all these settings are not quite optimized. It's a Bulldozer and to get your CPU/NB works at 2600 MHz it needs an awfully lot of voltage --> 1.3818 V in BIOS, CPU/NB LLC set to High. On the other hand it surely speeds up RAM.
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried a lot of configurations. The RAM is stable though timings are not quite what I would like to have
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried also upping VDDR V to 1.2100 - 1.2150. It may bring some stability to your system but I assume it heats up RAM sticks ... so, really I just don't know how high can VDDR be not to stressing DRAM too much.


Thanks. I'll see if these help. I think setting the dram current capability to 130% helped a lot.

When I set my vddr to 1.210 it lasted 1 hour 20mins until crashing (All time high.), but i got a random artifact with my screen flashing.

I'm trying it at 1.205 now.

It seems my cpu/nb won't go over 1.33V without crashing the system. Your's is at 1.38









What ram are you using? Is there any way to monitor the voltage at the dram?


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xSneak*
> 
> Thanks. I'll see if these help. I think setting the dram current capability to 130% helped a lot.
> When I set my vddr to 1.210 it lasted 1 hour 20mins until crashing (All time high.), but i got a random artifact with my screen flashing.
> 
> I'm trying it at 1.205 now.
> 
> It seems my cpu/nb won't go over 1.33V without crashing the system. Your's is at 1.38
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What ram are you using? Is there any way to monitor the voltage at the dram?


Well, I found out that the main factor to maintain stability of your RAM is to up your CPU/NB voltage really high. You don't even have (well sometimes you have) to set your RAM V to 1.65 V. But generally (that's what I think) it all depends on how your IMC deals with higher speeds. Of course RAM one uses is a factor here. I had Trident X 2400 MHz 16 GB before and I just sold it







It was a nightmare to make it work stable. Now I use *Corsair DDR3 2x 4GB 2000MHz CL9 XMS3* and with loosened (higher) timings I can run it at 2133 MHz. The funny thing is that using lower speeds with tight timings like for instance 1866 MHz and 8-9-8-24-36 1T ... performance is almost as good as you'd have run RAM at 2000 MHz. And the best part is that you don't have to up your DRAM V, CPU/NB V, VDDR V to some ridicilous level.

The example:

 

As you can see, not much difference.
On the right picture:
RAM 1866 8-9-8-24-36 1T
DRAM V = 1.65 V
CPU/NB V= 1.35 V (High)
VDDR V = I think it was stock 1.200 V

On the left picture:
RAM 2033 9-10-9-26-38 1T
DRAM V = 1.65 V
CPU/NB V= 1.3813 V (High)
VDDR V = 1.2100 V

I use AIDA 64 Extreme 2.70 (there should be newer version of this software).
It has all what I need to know about every voltage and all of other aspects of my computer. I hate this Asus Monitor Tool :/


----------



## hotrod717

^^^^^^^^Wow! That's a lot v for cpu/nb. Shouldn't need that much to run 2600mhz on cpu/nb. Seems extremely overvolted in both scenarios. That much voltage on cpu/nb is adding a lot of heat to your cpu. You really shouldn't need to add much unless you are truly overclocking your ram and/or cpu/nb. And other than sammies, they're selling them at there top speeds now anyways. Xsneaks please don't roast your board!


----------



## xSneak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> ^^^^^^^^Wow! That's a lot v for cpu/nb. Shouldn't need that much to run 2600mhz on cpu/nb. Seems extremely overvolted in both scenarios. That much voltage on cpu/nb is adding a lot of heat to your cpu. You really shouldn't need to add much unless you are truly overclocking your ram and/or cpu/nb. And other than sammies, they're selling them at there top speeds now anyways. Xsneaks please don't roast your board!


thanks for the concern.

my temps seem to be fine though, unless it is inherently bad to run the cpu/nb past a certain point.

according to amd, cpu/nb can go from 1.35-1.45V without liquid nitrogen.

I'm still trying to get this damn ram stable though. I'm beginning to think it is my motherboard or cpu that is the problem.


----------



## hotrod717

The lower, the better. More voltage more heat. I have not had to raise CPU/ nb past 1.325v with any CPU. 1100t with 3256mhz CPU/nb and 2133mhz ram does not even require as much. Tread lightly. I've
recently seen a lot of misinformed info being passed lately. 1.35-1.45 is max. Hell stock is 1.15v . Take your time and test in small increments. Don't jump .25 v just because some else does. Slow and steady.


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> The lower, the better. More voltage more heat. I have not had to raise CPU/ nb past 1.325v with any CPU. 1100t with 3256mhz CPU/nb and 2133mhz ram does not even require as much. Tread lightly. I've
> recently seen a lot of misinformed info being passed lately. 1.35-1.45 is max. Hell stock is 1.15v . Take your time and test in small increments. Don't jump .25 v just because some else does. Slow and steady.


So, how about now? What voltage do you need to run your CPU/NB at 2600 MHz and is this configuration stable? Could you give us any hints or maybe your entire configuration in BIOS ? You compare 1100 T to FX and it's not the same. I had 1090 T and to have CPU/NB at 3000 MHz I needed 1.29 V







Having FX chip is quite different. Of course I can run CPU/NB at 2200 MHz with only 1.24 V. Then when I tried to up the speed to 2400 MHz I needed 1.31-1.33 V - really







And for what chips stock voltage is 1.15 V ? Zambezi? Piledriver?


----------



## xSneak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> So, how about now? What voltage do you need to run your CPU/NB at 2600 MHz and is this configuration stable? Could you give us any hints or maybe your entire configuration in BIOS ? You compare 1100 T to FX and it's not the same. I had 1090 T and to have CPU/NB at 3000 MHz I needed 1.29 V
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having FX chip is quite different. Of course I can run CPU/NB at 2200 MHz with only 1.24 V. Then when I tried to up the speed to 2400 MHz I needed 1.31-1.33 V - really
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for what chips stock voltage is 1.15 V ? Zambezi? Piledriver?


hate to bother you again, but did you ever adjust the dram voltage frequency in the digi power settings?


----------



## pendrago

^^^^
Yeap! I have recently been playing around with this setting. But you meant VRM Voltage Frequency ?
I have changed this to 350 KHz (which should be safe setting), hoping to gain some stability but, well, I haven't seen any difference. The only difference was that heat went up on my VRM. Then I have reverted it back to AUTO.

But take a look at this post http://www.overclock.net/t/981987/high-cpu-voltages-vrm-frequencies/0_50
Maybe you'll find it useful.


----------



## JayMacc81

Does anyone here use the OC Tuner in the bios? I'm new to OCing and didn't want to fry anything by doing it manually.


----------



## Pill Monster




----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayMacc81*
> 
> Does anyone here use the OC Tuner in the bios? I'm new to OCing and didn't want to fry anything by doing it manually.


You are more likely to fry something using OC tuner than by doing it manually. But most people are fine. What I would recommend is that if you do not feel safe OCing it yourself then go a head and run OC tuner. Then boot into windows launch CPU-z, turbo evo in aisuite, and prime95. Go ahead and turn prime95 on. Then 2 clicks are a time start reducing the vcore until the one of the workers in prime95 stops, prime95 hangs, or the computer hangs. While you are lowering the voltage make sure you keep track of how many clicks it was that you lowered it. Not the voltage it says in turbo evo but how many clicks. Also note the voltage that it reads in CPU-z.

Once something that shows instability has showed it's face go a head and set the vcore in the bios to 3 clicks higher than when you had a problem if it was a failed worker or prime95 hung or 4 clicks higher than if the entire OS locked up. So for example if you reduced it 10 clicks and then had an issue and the issue was a failed worker then we are going to make a change of 7 clicks which is a reduction of .035v (.005v per click). So go into the bios where the voltage is and make that change wether it is offset mode or manual mode does't matter at this time.

Save the bios, reboot into windows, launch cpu-z, prime95, and real temp. Set real temp to shut the computer down if you reach 15c from tjmax. Run prime95 overnight and make not of the voltage displayed in cpu-z.

I would recommend removing the case panel and pointing a small AC fan into the case.

Like this... the reason being that normally you will never hit the temperatures caused in prime95 so it is ok to cheat and have a big fan pointed at the computer. When you are not using prime95 or some other stress test application there will be no need for this fan.

If prime95 makes it 12HRs then this should be a good safe speed and safe voltage for you. It will probably be quite a bit lower voltage than what auto tuner set for you but auto tuner wants to make it so it is unlikely that you ever crash and honestly trades that reduces chance of crashing for a highly increased amount of heat.

The next thing you can do to make things better is that if voltage was in manual mode then I would recommend trying to achieve the same voltage with LLC set to the lowest ON setting which should be medium and the voltage mode set to offset. All you need to do to achieve this is change the LLC mode then change the voltage mode to offset. Change the offset to the highest yellow setting. Go into windows turn CPU-z on run prime95 for just a few seconds noting the voltage. Take the difference in the voltage so if it is .03 volts higher then you can remember it as the amount of voltage off or how many clicks off. Go into the bios and reduce the offset by the difference it was over. Then retest and make sure you are at the same voltage you had achieved from the 12HR prime95 test. At this time you should be done and stable running prime95 again fro 12HRs would be a good idea. I final stability test would be to use Intel Burn Test and but only with 2 threads. This will test a heavy 2 process load on your processor ensuring that your non full load stability is fine as well. This is also a good way to test your computers stability after enabling power saving features in the bios since if they caused instability it is usually not at full load it is usually under partial load.

This has been basically a backwards way to over clock but if you are afraid to find your own maximum this will result in a safe clock that gives you peace of mind that it is a speed that auto tuner decided was ok and at temperatures that are most likely much lower than what auto tuner thinks is ok.


----------



## itomic

Can one find information of motherboard BIOS on box ??


----------



## xSneak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> Can one find information of motherboard BIOS on box ??


It ran my fx-8320 on the factory shipped bios if that means anything to you. (R 2.0 version)


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pill Monster*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


^^^^^^
And that proves ...? What? Higher CPU overclock 4.8 GHZ and CPU/NB 2.6 GHz speeds up your RAM bandwidth and reduces your memory latency?


----------



## hucklebuck

I never have oc'd my NB can someone fill me in on a couple details? where in the bios? temps? volts? ratios? etc?
I hear it can really boost performance.
Thanks.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> Can one find information of motherboard BIOS on box ??


can i ask why does it matter? worst case download new one on usp stick and use the bios flash by plugging it into the right usb port and push the button doesnt even need to boot

side note :

just put Gskill 2400 16gb in and got it running >:O currently on ~30 min of prime will update with settings soon if stable. and yes it is running @ 2400

have to say these things are massive


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> I never have oc'd my NB can someone fill me in on a couple details? where in the bios? temps? volts? ratios? etc?
> I hear it can really boost performance.
> Thanks.


Well, I could recommend to you the official AMD FX Overclocking Guide which you can find it here --> http://sites.amd.com/us/Documents/AMD_FX_Performance_Tuning_Guide.pdf

It's a little bit outdated (since there are new chips on the market) but generally it should give you some hints how to overclock FX.

You got Vishera chip so it could be a little bit differently from Zambezi overclocking. Nevertheless it could be a good start.


----------



## jzohng

ok i figured out how to format my new hard drive. it was easy. i thought i had to go into bios and stuff but i didnt. anyways its installed and works great.


----------



## Mega Man

update although i cant get 4 sticks stable @ 2400 ( 32gb ) i can get 2 sticks on 2 hours prime stable, (going overnight now ) but only if i choose DOCP. ( all i have to set is the main 4 timings ) even coping the same ram timings ( all of them ) on manual, it just wont be stable ( with 2 or 4 sticks) i dunno why .... o well. lets see how these go over night

i am bumbed the 4 sticks of trident may be huge but they look sexay.


----------



## JTHMfreak

Was thinking of getting a sabertooth, do you think it will alleviate some of my issues such as only getting 1.5x my original score in valley? I have only had two different amd boards, I liked my previous much more than the one one I have now.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> update although i cant get 4 sticks stable @ 2400 ( 32gb ) i can get 2 sticks on 2 hours prime stable, (going overnight now ) but only if i choose DOCP. ( all i have to set is the main 4 timings ) even coping the same ram timings ( all of them ) on manual, it just wont be stable ( with 2 or 4 sticks) i dunno why .... o well. lets see how these go over night
> 
> i am bumbed the 4 sticks of trident may be huge but they look sexay.


Have you tried just using 2T when you had 4 sticks in?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Have you tried just using 2T when you had 4 sticks in?


Yep it acctually forces to 2t even if i try to manually set it to 1t XDXD

also my cpu hates when i put 1.32v+ on cpu/nb it gets really slow right at startup and then will bluescreen within 1 min of opening windows ( logging in to win 8 )

anywho 12 hours stable in prime 16gb 2400 gskill on amd 8350
http://valid.canardpc.com/2727870


so i can officially say yes this board and an 8350 can do 2400, while not all are guaranteed they can be done


----------



## Krusher33

Has there been much of a difference performance wise?


----------



## Pill Monster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> ^^^^^^
> And that proves ...? What? Higher CPU overclock 4.8 GHZ and CPU/NB 2.6 GHz speeds up your RAM bandwidth and reduces your memory latency?


Wow, you're a smart cookie aren't you - did you figure that out all by yourself?

Who said my pic was intended to prove anything ? Maybe I uploaded it so you could see what settings/voltages I use. You're obviously struggling so figured you could use the help.

But instead I think I'll just head on back to Guru3D.









Chow.


----------



## Snipestech

Thinking about this memory upgrade for my board currently using the
(Gskill ripjaws 1600 8Gb)
Any thoughts ?


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pill Monster*
> 
> Wow, you're a smart cookie aren't you - did you figure that out all by yourself?
> 
> Who said my pic was intended to prove anything ? Maybe I uploaded it so you could see what settings/voltages I use. You're obviously struggling so figured you could use the help.


You see... I hope I didn't offend you in any way. That was not my intention. But when I see a single picture without any word of explanation showing you Vishera chip (I got Zambezi - a little bit different - don't you think?) overclocked to 4.8 GHz I just really don't know how this picture could possibly help me. A few words of description would do good the picture you presented. And you see... there are a few issues one has to struggle when overclocking memory.
1) CPU/NB V
2) IMC strength
3) Dram V
4) VRM power scenario (standard, optimized, manual etc.)
5) the quality of your Dram (I mean overclocking capabilty)
6) timings








and a bunch of other you have to set to make this whole thing works.

And how come in AIDA 64 Extreme your Vcore is at 1.032 V and in CPUz there is 1.476 V ?
So... once again that was not my intetion to offend you or anything like that. But a simple picture (and you compare different kind of chips - take a look at my sig rig) without any word of explanation ... sorry ... it didn't help me much.
Quote:


> But instead I think I'll just head on back to Guru3D.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chow.


Suit yourself - your choice.
See ya


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> So, how about now? What voltage do you need to run your CPU/NB at 2600 MHz and is this configuration stable? Could you give us any hints or maybe your entire configuration in BIOS ? You compare 1100 T to FX and it's not the same. I had 1090 T and to have CPU/NB at 3000 MHz I needed 1.29 V
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having FX chip is quite different. Of course I can run CPU/NB at 2200 MHz with only 1.24 V. Then when I tried to up the speed to 2400 MHz I needed 1.31-1.33 V - really
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for what chips stock voltage is 1.15 V ? Zambezi? Piledriver?


As a owner of an 8350, I know the difference. And have had over a dozen 1100T and 1090T's in my bench. With the 8350 I run cpu/nb at 1.25v with 2600mhz. You need to really need to get a grip on yourself. Cpu/nb is stock at 1.15. Your like the guy that bought my old 890fx board - You complained i sent a faulty board and after 2 weeks realized you had bent a cpu pin and the board was fine.







Maybe you should spend more time experimenting and less giving advise.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> You see... I hope I didn't offend you in any way. That was not my intention. But when I see a single picture without any word of explanation showing you Vishera chip (I got Zambezi - a little bit different - don't you think?) overclocked to 4.8 GHz I just really don't know how this picture could possibly help me. A few words of description would do good the picture you presented. And you see... there are a few issues one has to struggle when overclocking memory.
> 1) CPU/NB V
> 2) IMC strength
> 3) Dram V
> 4) VRM power scenario (standard, optimized, manual etc.)
> 5) the quality of your Dram (I mean overclocking capabilty)
> 6) timings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a bunch of other you have to set to make this whole thing works.
> 
> And how come in AIDA 64 Extreme your Vcore is at 1.032 V and in CPUz there is 1.476 V ?
> So... once again that was not my intetion to offend you or anything like that. But a simple picture (and you compare different kind of chips - take a look at my sig rig) without any word of explanation ... sorry ... it didn't help me much.
> Suit yourself - your choice.
> See ya


Sorry, I can't help myself: LOLZ!

Aye, I was struggling to figure out what message the pictures Pill posted were meant to convey.
I chose to ignore it after a few minutes.


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> As a owner of an 8350, I know the difference. And have had over a dozen 1100T and 1090T's in my bench. With the 8350 I run cpu/nb at 1.25v with 2600mhz. You need to really need to get a grip on yourself. Cpu/nb is stock at 1.15. Your like the guy that bought my old 890fx board - You complained i sent a faulty board and after 2 weeks realized you had bent a cpu pin and the board was fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe you should spend more time experimenting and less giving advise.


Really? And what advice could you give me besides the one that you run Piledriver chip (CPU/NB) at 2600 MHz with only 1.25 V ? So... you should probably know the difference between FX-6100 and FX-8350, huh?
It is really not the matter of giving advice to anyone. I just wanted to share with my results (apparently you consider this kind of situation as giving advice. I swear, I am not a pro in overclocking but it would be nice to get any advice from pro like you because you are (as you say) more experienced overclocker than I am.
You don't have to worry about time I spent on experimenting because it can be counted in hundreds of hours









And now very serious question for you. Do you really think that your configuration I mean chip (Vishera - which should be better than Zambezi), DRAM and other stuff have some serious impact on your overclocking results ? Honestly?

And hmmm spare me please any stories about your trade business - it's quite irrelevant to this discussion.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snipestech*
> 
> Thinking about this memory upgrade for my board currently using the
> (Gskill ripjaws 1600 8Gb)
> Any thoughts ?


Which ripjaws do you have? If you have tight timed version of the ripjaw x then I wouldn't change them out. You get barely any increase in performance if any by increasing the speed of the memory unless you are using the APU graphics. If you have the Ripjaw X 1600 kit it is also really the same thing as the 1866 kit. The 1866 kit might be binned a little but I actually doubt it. For exmaple one of Crucial's 1866 kit was the same exact thing as the 1600 kit except it had a XMP 1866 profile programmed on it.

Before you go and do something like that loosen up your timings to what the faster ram would have and see if you can run it. It is likely that you can hit 1866 with 1 higher on the first 4 timings.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Really? And what advice could you give me besides the one that you run Piledriver chip (CPU/NB) at 2600 MHz with only 1.25 V ? So... you should probably know the difference between FX-6100 and FX-8350, huh?
> It is really not the matter of giving advice to anyone. I just wanted to share with my results (apparently you consider this kind of situation as giving advice. I swear, I am not a pro in overclocking but it would be nice to get any advice from pro like you because you are (as you say) more experienced overclocker than I am.
> You don't have to worry about time I spent on experimenting because it can be counted in hundreds of hours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now very serious question for you. Do you really think that your configuration I mean chip (Vishera - which should be better than Zambezi), DRAM and other stuff have some serious impact on your overclocking results ? Honestly?
> 
> And hmmm spare me please any stories about your trade business - it's quite irrelevant to this discussion.


i have owned 3 6100s and they were a pita to oc (granted they were not under water) ... didnt like going too much and wouldnt let me do my ram either...... fyi. granted i was using a giga board. tempted to see what it could do on a sabertooth.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Has there been much of a difference performance wise?


honestly have not had much time to deal with my pc just recased my wifes pc and been letting this prime.... still unable to get 32 gb stable. howeveri can say it boots up a bit faster. the circle in win 8 log on does not even make a quarter turn ( used to take ~3/4 ) honestly besides that i have only checked email/ web surfed while it primed.

found a few sensor programs were not playing nicly with each other when i booted which was causing bsod. to me things do feel faster. ill keep you posted.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snipestech*
> 
> Thinking about this memory upgrade for my board currently using the
> (Gskill ripjaws 1600 8Gb)
> Any thoughts ?


imo that is really up to you . i did it for looks/ and so i can comfortably oc via fsb without having to worry ram was crashing me.

ill keep you up to date as well how i feel. tried 32gb in a few configs left in prime and ~ 2 hours each came back and they failed till i went back. got manual setting working ( from docp [those programs i mentioned that were not happy were the cause(one was ai suite so i am not surprised LOL but i like some of the features it allows )])

i am going to see about tightening timings. but i can post a maxxmem score.



not on fresh reboot and after many programs opened but usually pretty average with this mem so far it really is my timings. that i need to mess with may lower freq to do so idk we will see gonna be busy this week


----------



## Mega Man

keep meaning to bring this up but i keep forgetting so in my insomnia i remembered...... why does intel get all the cool stuff.

why doesnt amd have built in wifi and bluetooth boards?? and why isnt any company making our watercooling blocks that match this board !!!! ( yes i know the water blocks have been brought up many times........)

oc key ....


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> keep meaning to bring this up but i keep forgetting so in my insomnia i remembered...... why does intel get all the cool stuff.
> 
> why doesnt amd have built in wifi and bluetooth boards?? and why isnt any company making our watercooling blocks that match this board !!!! ( yes i know the water blocks have been brought up many times........)
> 
> oc key ....


Honestly? Because AM3+ is in a coma, barely hanging on with life support. Companies really don't seem to see it as a good R&D investment beyond a few updates to whats already there (the new sabertooth PCI-E 3.0 for example), which while crappy for us is most likely a sound financial decision for them.


----------



## xSneak

I couldn't get my ram stable no matter what on that kit I was using.

I'm trying a different set of ram now and it's not stable at 1866, I'm gong to try 1600 next.

If it still isn't stable should I return my cpu and get another one, or would the fault lie with the motherboard?


----------



## sw33tp34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i am going to see about tightening timings. but i can post a maxxmem score.
> 
> *EDIT: IMG removed for space*
> 
> not on fresh reboot and after many programs opened but usually pretty average with this mem so far it really is my timings. that i need to mess with may lower freq to do so idk we will see gonna be busy this week


better than mine..


EDIT 2: Hey, I realize this was my first post. I have a 990fx rev2.0 http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2720295 <-- I think I'll fit in here.


----------



## Heuchler

Just started testing my new Sabertooth 990FX R1.
And as i feared my Patriot DDR3-1333 [intel x58] doesn't overclock worth anything.
had it in my spare parts pile for years after doing an upgrade for a friend.
Sad but it is on par with my old DDR2 setup.

Any deal recommendations on performance DDR3 that work well on this board ?


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heuchler*
> 
> Just started testing my new Sabertooth 990FX R1.
> And as i feared my Patriot DDR3-1333 [intel x58] doesn't overclock worth anything.
> had it in my spare parts pile for years after doing an upgrade for a friend.
> Sad but it is on par with my old DDR2 setup.
> 
> Any deal recommendations on performance DDR3 that work well on this board ?


G.Skill Ripjaw X is the lowest latency affordable memory that I know of. $78 gets you 8GB of 8-9-9-24 1866 @ 1.5v or if you want something that claims it is 2133 then Ripjaw X 9-11-10-28 at 1.65v but 1.65v is kind of like lying. Basically they are saying we can't get this ram stable at 1.5v so we are going to write the specs for 1.5v

Team xTreme has 2133 9-11-11-28 ar 1.5v

You wont really notice a difference in performance on any kit but those are the affordable kits with good numbers.


----------



## sw33tp34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> G.Skill Ripjaw X is the lowest latency affordable memory that I know of. $78 gets you 8GB of 8-9-9-24 1866 @ 1.5v or if you want something that claims it is 2133 then Ripjaw X 9-11-10-28 at 1.65v but 1.65v is kind of like lying. Basically they are saying we can't get this ram stable at 1.5v so we are going to write the specs for 1.5v
> 
> Team xTreme has 2133 9-11-11-28 ar 1.5v
> 
> You wont really notice a difference in performance on any kit but those are the affordable kits with good numbers.


Since I'm new to DDR3 can you look 2 posts up and tell me how my memory is perofrming? You seem to have a better handle on this. I have some cpu-z shot and maxxmem2


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> G.Skill Ripjaw X is the lowest latency affordable memory that I know of. $78 gets you 8GB of 8-9-9-24 1866 @ 1.5v or if you want something that claims it is 2133 then Ripjaw X 9-11-10-28 at 1.65v but 1.65v is kind of like lying. Basically they are saying we can't get this ram stable at 1.5v so we are going to write the specs for 1.5v
> 
> Team xTreme has 2133 9-11-11-28 ar 1.5v
> 
> You wont really notice a difference in performance on any kit but those are the affordable kits with good numbers.


i must disagree. considering a few things
1 ddr3 debuted with 1.7v
2 anything above 1333 IS an oc
3 besides your 1 set
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=Property&Subcategory=147&Description=&Type=&N=100007611&IsNodeId=1&IsPowerSearch=1&srchInDesc=&MinPrice=&MaxPrice=&PropertyCodeValue=524%3A47498&PropertyCodeValue=524%3A55450&PropertyCodeValue=524%3A288992&PropertyCodeValue=524%3A301742&PropertyCodeValue=524%3A301744 please show me 1 more that is less then 1.6v

cause i cant find any.

not flaming or trolling but i dont want miss-information out.

even the best in business (corsair / crucial) cant make it happen or have not for a good reason

when ddr4 is out maybe you will be right. but in terms of ddr3 i have to say no sir you are incorrect


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> G.Skill Ripjaw X is the lowest latency affordable memory that I know of. $78 gets you 8GB of 8-9-9-24 1866 @ 1.5v or if you want something that claims it is 2133 then Ripjaw X 9-11-10-28 at 1.65v but 1.65v is kind of like lying. Basically they are saying we can't get this ram stable at 1.5v so we are going to write the specs for 1.5v
> 
> Team xTreme has 2133 9-11-11-28 ar 1.5v
> 
> You wont really notice a difference in performance on any kit but those are the affordable kits with good numbers.
> 
> 
> 
> i must disagree. considering a few things
> 1 ddr3 debuted with 1.7v
> 2 anything above 1333 IS an oc
> 3 besides your 1 set
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=Property&Subcategory=147&Description=&Type=&N=100007611&IsNodeId=1&IsPowerSearch=1&srchInDesc=&MinPrice=&MaxPrice=&PropertyCodeValue=524%3A47498&PropertyCodeValue=524%3A55450&PropertyCodeValue=524%3A288992&PropertyCodeValue=524%3A301742&PropertyCodeValue=524%3A301744 please show me 1 more that is less then 1.6v
> 
> cause i cant find any.
> 
> not flaming or trolling but i dont want miss-information out.
> 
> even the best in business (corsair / crucial) cant make it happen or have not for a good reason
> 
> when ddr4 is out maybe you will be right. but in terms of ddr3 i have to say no sir you are incorrect
Click to expand...

What on earth are you talking about... Misinformation? I will put this out for everyone to see and common sense alone will show that you don't know what you are talking about.

I don't mean to be a jerk but you obviously don't know what you are talking about. After I am done explaining this anyone will be able to just use common sense to understand where I am coming from and why I am correct.

I will start by responding to each of your statements and then add some more info and give you some links to show what I am talking about.

1 ddr3 debuted with 1.7v - *Key word is debuted. This is no longer the standard and we have ram packages that the stock voltage is as low as 1.25v (g.skill sniper low voltage) and a little more available is the 1.35 low voltage. Now the standard is 1.5v and it is the most common and available ram right now. Newegg has 507 kits that have 1.5 as the stock voltage and only 169 that are 1.65 surprisingly 37 1.35 kits are available on newegg. So that pretty much makes your comment pointless and silly.*
2 anything above 1333 IS an oc - *Why did you even say this? Also what are we talking about as an OC? Because plenty of CPUs directly support higher than 1333 speeds. But anyways your comment about anything over 1333 being an OC just backs up what I said about the difference between 2 sticks with identical timings but one having a higher voltage. To get the timings on the set with the tighter timings they had to increase the voltage to be stable. It has nothing to do with standards. If you want to run 1.65v memory at 1.5v it will run... you just have to decrease the timings*
3 besides your 1 set please show me 1 more that is less then 1.6v - *This makes me upset... you are the one putting false info out there and making people confused!!! Seriously I don't really understand this question because the way you worded it all I have to do is post this link which shows a staggering 546 DDR3 kits that are below 1.6v this is why the comment/question you asked confuses me... because you must not have actually been asking me to show you a kit that's less than 1.6v because that would just show everyone that you have no clue at all. Now I build a TON of machines per year and I really know what I am talking about when recommending mid tier non benching ram and I really know what programs and cpus will benefit from faster ram.*

So now for the added information that really makes it understandable. There is no magic trick for getting higher speeds and tighter timings. If you have a whole bunch of the exact same memory modules there are 2 ways to get better stats out of those ram modules. You can either bin them which means testing all of them and setting aside the ones that perform the best. Or you can increase the voltage since when you OC something and it becomes unstable you increase the voltage to get it stable. When you talk about DDR3 debuting at a specific voltage back a while ago people with 900 series CPUs and maybe other series as well where pushing as much as 1.9v and maybe even higher for some. They pushed it to 1.9 for a reason... Better timings and higher speeds.

Now as far as the voltage thing and companies actually using the same modules for multiple kits... This is completely confirmed information that you can find on several articles online. One example I can give you is that Corsair Vengeance line has a low profile red 1866 kit. It wasn't very popular and wasn't stocked very well. Corsair was so hasty about getting the kits out that they left the original SKU on some of them. That SKU read 1600 somewhere in it. Why? because that 1866 kit was a 1600 kit that corsair pulled out and re-programmed the SPD profiles on. Also like I said there where not a lot of these 2x4GB [email protected] kits out there and when I RMA'd one there was no 1866 kit listed only the 1600 kit when I asked what I should put they told me just to put the 1600 kit and that they where actually the same kit.

Last thing I am going to say because this is really boring and it is silly that I have to do this just so you don't end up misleading a ton of people.

With most high performance ram kits that are programmed as 1.5v in the SPD if you tighten up the timings and it crashes then you can usually bump the voltage up to 1.5-1.65 and it will be stable. This is exactly what ram vendors are doing with some of the kits.

After reading this it will be fairly obvious to anyone with common sense that if you have 2 kits with identical timings and speed ratings but one chip has 1.5v and the other has 1.65v programmed in the SPD the one with 1.5v is better AND you can probably actually get it to go a little bit tighter if you increase the voltage to 1.65 with the 1.65 to get it to OC further you would be going up into the 1.7+ zones.

SOOOOOOO WHO IS MISLEADING WHO?????


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sw33tp34*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> G.Skill Ripjaw X is the lowest latency affordable memory that I know of. $78 gets you 8GB of 8-9-9-24 1866 @ 1.5v or if you want something that claims it is 2133 then Ripjaw X 9-11-10-28 at 1.65v but 1.65v is kind of like lying. Basically they are saying we can't get this ram stable at 1.5v so we are going to write the specs for 1.5v
> 
> Team xTreme has 2133 9-11-11-28 ar 1.5v
> 
> You wont really notice a difference in performance on any kit but those are the affordable kits with good numbers.
> 
> 
> 
> Since I'm new to DDR3 can you look 2 posts up and tell me how my memory is perofrming? You seem to have a better handle on this. I have some cpu-z shot and maxxmem2
Click to expand...

Hey man where are the posts... Give me a link I can take a look for you and make sure everything is operating at the correct timings. Often times ram manufacturers only put a few SPD profiles and 1 XMP profile on the ram. If you use one of the SPD profiles it is usually very loose and poor performing because they are going on the safe side for anyone who doesn't know what they are doing. The XMP profile will be correct but you can't use that profile... You can view it then manually type those settings in. Or just go to the website and verify the timings.

This is especially the case if you buy 1866 ram and run it at 1600. It will most likely have a good XMP but who knows that they put in for the standard SPD profile.

You will have to manually type those settings in which is no bigy. I can walk you through it after I see the screen shots because then I will know if the timings are off or not.

Please make sure you give me the exact model number of the ram every last bit of it. Also include a screen shot of CPU-z on the memory tab.

Oh and shoot me a PM once you have done this stuff so I remember to look at this thread.

Oh and I apologize about the guy above it seems whenever you post something important up someone always challenges it.


----------



## JTHMfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> keep meaning to bring this up but i keep forgetting so in my insomnia i remembered...... why does intel get all the cool stuff.
> 
> why doesnt amd have built in wifi and bluetooth boards?? and why isnt any company making our watercooling blocks that match this board !!!! ( yes i know the water blocks have been brought up many times........)
> 
> oc key ....


I had an AMD board with built in wifi, was an older board from the first Phenom line


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> What on earth are you talking about... Misinformation? I will put this out for everyone to see and common sense alone will show that you don't know what you are talking about.
> 
> I don't mean to be a jerk but you obviously don't know what you are talking about. After I am done explaining this anyone will be able to just use common sense to understand where I am coming from and why I am correct.
> 
> I will start by responding to each of your statements and then add some more info and give you some links to show what I am talking about.
> 
> 1 ddr3 debuted with 1.7v - *Key word is debuted. This is no longer the standard and we have ram packages that the stock voltage is as low as 1.25v (g.skill sniper low voltage) and a little more available is the 1.35 low voltage. Now the standard is 1.5v and it is the most common and available ram right now. Newegg has 507 kits that have 1.5 as the stock voltage and only 169 that are 1.65 surprisingly 37 1.35 kits are available on newegg. So that pretty much makes your comment pointless and silly.*
> 2 anything above 1333 IS an oc - *Why did you even say this? Also what are we talking about as an OC? Because plenty of CPUs directly support higher than 1333 speeds. But anyways your comment about anything over 1333 being an OC just backs up what I said about the difference between 2 sticks with identical timings but one having a higher voltage. To get the timings on the set with the tighter timings they had to increase the voltage to be stable. It has nothing to do with standards. If you want to run 1.65v memory at 1.5v it will run... you just have to decrease the timings*
> 3 besides your 1 set please show me 1 more that is less then 1.6v - *This makes me upset... you are the one putting false info out there and making people confused!!! Seriously I don't really understand this question because the way you worded it all I have to do is post this link which shows a staggering 546 DDR3 kits that are below 1.6v this is why the comment/question you asked confuses me... because you must not have actually been asking me to show you a kit that's less than 1.6v because that would just show everyone that you have no clue at all. Now I build a TON of machines per year and I really know what I am talking about when recommending mid tier non benching ram and I really know what programs and cpus will benefit from faster ram.*
> 
> So now for the added information that really makes it understandable. There is no magic trick for getting higher speeds and tighter timings. If you have a whole bunch of the exact same memory modules there are 2 ways to get better stats out of those ram modules. You can either bin them which means testing all of them and setting aside the ones that perform the best. Or you can increase the voltage since when you OC something and it becomes unstable you increase the voltage to get it stable. When you talk about DDR3 debuting at a specific voltage back a while ago people with 900 series CPUs and maybe other series as well where pushing as much as 1.9v and maybe even higher for some. They pushed it to 1.9 for a reason... Better timings and higher speeds.
> 
> Now as far as the voltage thing and companies actually using the same modules for multiple kits... This is completely confirmed information that you can find on several articles online. One example I can give you is that Corsair Vengeance line has a low profile red 1866 kit. It wasn't very popular and wasn't stocked very well. Corsair was so hasty about getting the kits out that they left the original SKU on some of them. That SKU read 1600 somewhere in it. Why? because that 1866 kit was a 1600 kit that corsair pulled out and re-programmed the SPD profiles on. Also like I said there where not a lot of these 2x4GB [email protected] kits out there and when I RMA'd one there was no 1866 kit listed only the 1600 kit when I asked what I should put they told me just to put the 1600 kit and that they where actually the same kit.
> 
> Last thing I am going to say because this is really boring and it is silly that I have to do this just so you don't end up misleading a ton of people.
> 
> With most high performance ram kits that are programmed as 1.5v in the SPD if you tighten up the timings and it crashes then you can usually bump the voltage up to 1.5-1.65 and it will be stable. This is exactly what ram vendors are doing with some of the kits.
> 
> After reading this it will be fairly obvious to anyone with common sense that if you have 2 kits with identical timings and speed ratings but one chip has 1.5v and the other has 1.65v programmed in the SPD the one with 1.5v is better AND you can probably actually get it to go a little bit tighter if you increase the voltage to 1.65 with the 1.65 to get it to OC further you would be going up into the 1.7+ zones.
> 
> SOOOOOOO WHO IS MISLEADING WHO?????


i did FORGET 1 thing
please show me HIGH SPEED (2133+) kits @ less then 1.65 if you refer back to my original post you will see that is the search criteria, i did forget to put that in my original post and i am sorry about that mistake

first just because it debuted and there are lower voltage kits out. DOES NOT mean they can not put out higher voltage kits.

secondly anything over 1333 on ddr3 is an overclock. it may be supported. but by all technicalities it is an overclock. does not matter if it is 1600 OR 2400, ever wonder why memory defaults to 1333 and you usually ( 90%of the time, unless your board does this automatically )have to enable an xmp profile. it may be rated to run at above 1333, your board or memory controller may accept more, but it is till an oc of the technology.

third ( please see above referring to me forgetting to put HIGH SPEED (2133) in my original statement.

laslty i never said they dont use the same kits with higher volts for different speeds.

i have stuff to do now but i will find proof about any speed over 1333 being an overclock later.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i did FORGET 1 thing
> please show me HIGH SPEED (2133+) kits @ less then 1.65 if you refer back to my original post you will see that is the search criteria, i did forget to put that in my original post and i am sorry about that mistake
> 
> first just because it debuted and there are lower voltage kits out. DOES NOT mean they can not put out higher voltage kits.
> 
> secondly anything over 1333 on ddr3 is an overclock. it may be supported. but by all technicalities it is an overclock. does not matter if it is 1600 OR 2400, ever wonder why memory defaults to 1333 and you usually ( 90%of the time, unless your board does this automatically )have to enable an xmp profile. it may be rated to run at above 1333, your board or memory controller may accept more, but it is till an oc of the technology.
> 
> third ( please see above referring to me forgetting to put HIGH SPEED (2133) in my original statement.
> 
> laslty i never said they dont use the same kits with higher volts for different speeds.
> 
> i have stuff to do now but i will find proof about any speed over 1333 being an overclock later.


Not sure what started this pissing match but...

Its only an overclock if the CPU doesn't natively support it. With chips like SB-E and IB supporting 1600mhz out of the box, it is NOT an overclock. Memory defaults to 1333 because it is the lowest JEDEC standard programmed into 99% of DDR3 modules (technically the standard covers 800 and 1066 but they are rarely used).

Also, I can find over 30 2133 and up kits with 1.5V XMP settings on newegg in about 10 seconds of searching.


----------



## givmedew

OK here is my problem with you right now... You said: _"not flaming or trolling but i dont want miss-information out"_ where was the misinformation?

I said the following:
_"G.Skill Ripjaw X is the lowest latency affordable memory that I know of. $78 gets you 8GB of 8-9-9-24 1866 @ 1.5v or if you want something that claims it is 2133 then Ripjaw X 9-11-10-28 at 1.65v but 1.65v is kind of like lying. Basically they are saying we can't get this ram stable at 1.5v so we are going to write the specs for 1.5v(typo I mean 1.65v)"_

So what did I say that was incorrect? I recommended to him the 1866 kit. I also said that 1.65v is kind of like lying... In a way it is the same exact thing that companies that make amplifiers do. The honest ones will say something like 110w and in fine print you see 110w at such and such a distortion ratio. The cheap company with an amp that weighs half as much will make a claim of 600w and in the fine print you will see that the @ distortion is much higher than what the other company rated theres at. If you manipulate one number you can post up another number that people pay more attention to.

If G.Skill could have made that ram stable at 1.5v with those settings they would have released it with it programmed at 1.5v

The only reason why I said to look out for that is because sometimes when you are comparing ram DIMMs 2 companies will have the same exact latency and DDR speed but one will be at 1.5v and the other at 1.65v

So the better ram in that situation is the one that is rated at 1.5v as it will have more overclocking headroom.

As far as the ram being OC'd I am well aware of it being considered OCing on the ram modules but you didn't specify which you where talking about which is why I made the comment I did. You are not OCing the IMC if the IMC is rated at 1600 and you are running it at 1600.

The fact that you confirm that all ram speeds over 1333 is OCing it just further backs up what I was saying about the ram voltages. People need to be aware that ram voltage plays into the performance and that it can sometimes be misleading. ESPECIALLY with 1866 and 1600 ram which have endless choices and many are all over the place on voltages. If someone didn't know how important the voltage was they could possibly pay more for a ram kit that isn't actually better than another ram kit. It is the same thing with amplifiers people are just not aware of the fact that the rated THD at that specific wattage output drastically changes the reported wattage.

So really how did I mislead anyone? It is very important that people pay attention to these numbers. I would almost guess that you are backing up a purchase or just think you know everything. I wouldn't be surprised if you bought a ram kit that had a good latency just to find out from me that the cheaper kit that was 1.5v and only 1 cas higher probably would have hit the same latency with the voltage turned up.

So I will accept your apology if you are man enough to give it but otherwise please lets forget this topic. I am the one who is correct and with all my explanations I think other people would have no problem coming to the same conclusion.

Also this is a total waste of my time but here you go since you obviously don't know how to navigate newegg.com

Here are (22) 2133 kits that are either 1.5v or lower.

There is (1) kit that lists itself as being 1.5v to 1.6v
There are (41) kits that are above 1.5v

That means about 1/3rd is the 1.5v or lower. That's a pretty good amount for backing up my claims LOL

Can't wait to hear your rebuttal, it should be a flat out apology. Not to me though to the other forum readers that you are jerking around. Stuff like this makes forums very difficult to use because they are chock full of opinions and incorrect information.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> OK here is my problem with you right now... You said: _"not flaming or trolling but i dont want miss-information out"_ where was the misinformation?
> 
> I said the following:
> _"G.Skill Ripjaw X is the lowest latency affordable memory that I know of. $78 gets you 8GB of 8-9-9-24 1866 @ 1.5v or if you want something that claims it is 2133 then Ripjaw X 9-11-10-28 at 1.65v but 1.65v is kind of like lying. Basically they are saying we can't get this ram stable at 1.5v so we are going to write the specs for 1.5v(typo I mean 1.65v)"_
> 
> So what did I say that was incorrect? I recommended to him the 1866 kit. I also said that 1.65v is kind of like lying... In a way it is the same exact thing that companies that make amplifiers do. The honest ones will say something like 110w and in fine print you see 110w at such and such a distortion ratio. The cheap company with an amp that weighs half as much will make a claim of 600w and in the fine print you will see that the @ distortion is much higher than what the other company rated theres at. If you manipulate one number you can post up another number that people pay more attention to.
> 
> If G.Skill could have made that ram stable at 1.5v with those settings they would have released it with it programmed at 1.5v
> 
> The only reason why I said to look out for that is because sometimes when you are comparing ram DIMMs 2 companies will have the same exact latency and DDR speed but one will be at 1.5v and the other at 1.65v
> 
> So the better ram in that situation is the one that is rated at 1.5v as it will have more overclocking headroom.
> 
> As far as the ram being OC'd I am well aware of it being considered OCing on the ram modules but you didn't specify which you where talking about which is why I made the comment I did. You are not OCing the IMC if the IMC is rated at 1600 and you are running it at 1600.
> 
> The fact that you confirm that all ram speeds over 1333 is OCing it just further backs up what I was saying about the ram voltages. People need to be aware that ram voltage plays into the performance and that it can sometimes be misleading. ESPECIALLY with 1866 and 1600 ram which have endless choices and many are all over the place on voltages. If someone didn't know how important the voltage was they could possibly pay more for a ram kit that isn't actually better than another ram kit. It is the same thing with amplifiers people are just not aware of the fact that the rated THD at that specific wattage output drastically changes the reported wattage.
> 
> So really how did I mislead anyone? It is very important that people pay attention to these numbers. I would almost guess that you are backing up a purchase or just think you know everything. I wouldn't be surprised if you bought a ram kit that had a good latency just to find out from me that the cheaper kit that was 1.5v and only 1 cas higher probably would have hit the same latency with the voltage turned up.
> 
> So I will accept your apology if you are man enough to give it but otherwise please lets forget this topic. I am the one who is correct and with all my explanations I think other people would have no problem coming to the same conclusion.
> 
> Also this is a total waste of my time but here you go since you obviously don't know how to navigate newegg.com
> 
> Here are (22) 2133 kits that are either 1.5v or lower.
> 
> There is (1) kit that lists itself as being 1.5v to 1.6v
> There are (41) kits that are above 1.5v
> 
> That means about 1/3rd is the 1.5v or lower. That's a pretty good amount for backing up my claims LOL
> 
> Can't wait to hear your rebuttal, it should be a flat out apology. Not to me though to the other forum readers that you are jerking around. Stuff like this makes forums very difficult to use because they are chock full of opinions and incorrect information.


i will make this short and sweet. i do not agree with everything you said and i have yet to see proof of it all. i am trying to keep this civil and if i failed to do so in the past i am sorry.

1 i was incorrect about a few things. for that i am wrong.
2 i will respectfully disagree with you about "overclocking head room" its there if you want to push it, although not impossible to kill these chips they are not easily killed with proper cooling.
3 I would almost guess that you are backing up a purchase or just think you know everything ~~~ absolutely not. i do alot of research however i am wrong just as anyone is. i may not know everything, but i will continue to learn. and i have no problem admitting i am wrong..

for my misinformation. i am sorry. and i will not be pursuing this topic any more. this thread however i will

Edit my apologies also if i seemed i had an attitude as that was not my intention


----------



## givmedew

Now see that was just a horrible apology... You brought up another thing that wasn't even an issue in your first post and that is about the overclocking head room. Like seriously if 2 identical chips come off the assembly line and are binned one chip needs extra voltage to stabilize so it is sold in a different memory kit with different profiles. The one that didn't need extra voltage to stabilize HAS MORE OVERCLOCKING HEADROOM!!!!!! Both ram kits are going to support the same absolute maximum voltage which isn't really going to be an issue with the ram it will be an issue with the IMC. If both have the same rated settings of for example 9-9-9//1866 @1.5v and the other is 9-9-9/1866 @1.65 then it is fairly obvious that you have more headroom in the 1.5v kit.

How can this stuff be so confusing to you and why do you need to keep coming up with something else that I said wrong? As far as ram goes I know what I am talking about especially when it comes to normal and performance use. I will admit that when it comes to benching I will sit down and let someone else make the decisions because I will admit that is my weak spot.

Also if you really knew what you where talking about you wouldn't have 4 sticks of ram in your gaming rig. You would have sold them all and purchased the correct amount of memory to only use in 2 slots.

So please stop looking for reasons to argue with me. I frequent this thread for one reason only and that is to help 990FX owners. I no longer own my 990FX and have switched all but (1) PC to i5s or i7s

So I don't get anything out of this thread except for to help people out and this is a situation where if I had known was going to be this drawn out I would have just ignored this thread for a week or so.

I am really hoping you are not going to find something else in this post to say is wrong again and I would laugh my a off if you tried to disagree with the 4 DIMMs thing.

*I am sorry if I came out like a jerk and usually I ignore people who make silly claims like this BUT when you actually call me out in the claim and tell me that I am misleading people it is kind of annoying.

So unless you have some funny way of making another comment about something I said that was wrong lets just call this quits so I can get back to helping people [/[/ZE]THANKS

William*


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Has there been much of a difference performance wise?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> to me things do feel faster. ill keep you posted.


as i said i will keep you posted been a few days and i have had some time to use my pc a little ( not as much as i would like)
things are definitely faster windows loads faster ( not a huge difference but definitely noticeable), games run better ( dont have an epic gpu so i cant say about fps mainly hitting gpu limits) the older games i do play that mainly are cpu and ram limited are most definitely faster. in ffxi loading went form ~ 3 sec between zones to ~ 1 sec. i barely see loading screens. have not run really any benchmarks but i am quite happy with my 16gb of 2400 ram on my 8350 ( esp with as many horror stories of not being able to run 2400 ) still can not get 32 gb but i only want it for looks as i will never use that much ram in our current gen pcs, as i dont do a lot of virtual machines. will continue to work on it.

also have not had much time to tighten timings but so far no luck ( less then 2 hours to play around ) also have not had much luck lowering the speed / timings but i mainly attribute that to lack of doing it

all in all i am very happy with this ram. works well and i have to say i do love the way it looks in my pc ( really didnt think i would.) some time soon ill post a pic with both all 4 dims installed and size comparisons because as i said these things are huge ~~~~~ and i just was not expecting it


----------



## Krusher33

Deja vu. Pretty sure this debate is in another thread from 2-3 years ago somewhere...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Deja vu. Pretty sure this debate is in another thread from 2-3 years ago somewhere...


either way it is done once i realized we went from civilized debate to what it was ( i am totally at fault as well. not passing the buck off from myself.) i ended it and am just now ignoring him and his comments i am sorry to bring this to ocn. my apologies


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heuchler*
> 
> Just started testing my new Sabertooth 990FX R1.
> And as i feared my Patriot DDR3-1333 [intel x58] doesn't overclock worth anything.
> had it in my spare parts pile for years after doing an upgrade for a friend.
> Sad but it is on par with my old DDR2 setup.
> 
> Any deal recommendations on performance DDR3 that work well on this board ?


Patriot Viper 3 Red DDR3 8GB 1866MHz Dual (2x4GB) PV38G186C9KRD $44.99 at frys.com (reputable site with physical stores scattered mostly in western us)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> Patriot Viper 3 Red DDR3 8GB 1866MHz Dual (2x4GB) PV38G186C9KRD $44.99 at frys.com (reputable site with physical stores scattered mostly in western us)


i dont know the world about phenom II but isnt 1866 hard to get stable ? may buy a 1090 or possibly an 1100 soon and i am interested


----------



## Krusher33

I think I remember testings showing that there's very little performance gains on Phenom for any RAM above 1600 mhz.


----------



## THC Butterz

true, but 1866 ram can run at 1600 with better timings 9/10 times, and for the price thats just a great deal


----------



## Krusher33

Now that's true.

I'm half tempted to sell the RAM I have now just to get faster ones like that.


----------



## Heuchler

Thanks guys. lots of input. Manufacture binning and repackaging and charging extra for it have been around a long time.
DDR3 seems more expensive now. could just be because I'm shopping for them now. but last year the
Ripjaws x 1600 where down to $25 shipped and Ballistix Tactical 1866 8GB kit for $30 after rebate.

THC Butterz - Patriot Viper 3 Red DDR3 8GB 1866MHz Dual (2x4GB) PV38G186C9KRD $44.99 at frys.com
givmedew - G.Skill TridentX 2400 and Ripjaws X 1600 look good

JEDEC standard modules for DDR3 [800 to 2133MHz]
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DDR3_SDRAM#Modules

DDR3L stands for low-voltage [1.35V]
DDR3U standard is 1.25V
Quote:


> According to JEDEC, 1.575 volts should be considered the absolute maximum when memory stability is the foremost consideration, such as in servers or other mission-critical devices. In addition, JEDEC states that memory modules must withstand up to 1.975 volts before incurring permanent damage, although they are not required to function correctly at that level.


Quote:


> All RAM data rates in-between or above these listed specifications are not standardized by JEDEC-often they are simply manufacturer optimizations using higher-tolerance or overvolted chips. Of these non-standard specifications, the highest reported speed reached was equivalent to DDR3-2544, as of May 2010


JEDEC Standard DDR3 2009 JESD79-3D
http://www.sjo.com.cn/downloads/spec/jedec/JESD79-3D.pdf

side now - About HT Receiver good point about THD rating at different levels (distortion) but more important is
full frequency vs one frequency [5k test tone] and them using one channel driven vs all channels. Like Harman Kardon
vs Sony Receivers. Sony/Pioneer will test only with a 5k test tone driving one channel while HK will do full frequency on
all channels. So, some people claim HK under rates their products. But really is the audio industry is driven by marketing
department. Same think can be applied to Computer enthusiast market. All the crap fatal1ty products on the market. Fan makers
do the same crap. No standard for how they rate their products. In Noise nor Performance. Quality maker will be honest while
bottom tier makers will claim 120cfm at 19dBA when it is more like 19cfm at 120dBA


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heuchler*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> According to JEDEC, 1.575 volts should be considered the absolute maximum when memory stability is the foremost consideration, such as in servers or other mission-critical devices. In addition, JEDEC states that memory modules must withstand up to 1.975 volts before incurring permanent damage, although they are not required to function correctly at that level.
Click to expand...

Silly me was concerned about RAM going over 1.67v to get 2133mhz stable. It's partially why I gave up on it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Silly me was concerned about RAM going over 1.67v to get 2133mhz stable. It's partially why I gave up on it.


time to start back up again huh ?


----------



## Krusher33

After my Assassin's Creed III playing wears off. I just installed it this morning.


----------



## Pill Monster

Well fwiw I'm running Kingston HyperX 2400mhz @1.575v.

HyperX comes with Hynix IC's which are pretty stable and great for overclocking. Btw 2400 won't give you any real performance gains except in benchmark scores.


----------



## shampoo911

well... that argument was fun to read...


----------



## Heuchler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Silly me was concerned about RAM going over 1.67v to get 2133mhz stable. It's partially why I gave up on it.


"JEDEC states that memory modules must withstand up to 1.975" isn't the same as saying you AMD CPU will take 1.98v on DDR3.

Sabertooth 990FX manual says "according to AMD CPU spec, DIMM with voltage requirement over 1.65V may damage the CPU permanently"

I think 1.70 vdimm will be fine for 24/7 overclocking. but I could be wrong.

Phenom 2 has DDR2 and DDR3 controllers.
While the FX is a whole different beast.

Edit

AMD FX Performance Tuning Guide (back from 2011- FX-8150) page 19
has DDR3 1.60 - 1.80v for air (and up to 1.85v extreme cooling - LN2)


----------



## Tweeky

this in my opinion is some of the best memory at this time for amd sabertooth

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007611%20600006142%20600006157&IsNodeId=1&page=1&bop=And&CompareItemList=147%7C20%2D231%2D518%5E20%2D231%2D518%2DTS%2C20%2D231%2D476%5E20%2D231%2D476%2DTS&percm=20%2D231%2D518%3A%24%24%24%24%24%24%24%3B20%2D231%2D476%3A%24%24%24%24%24%24%24


----------



## Heuchler

thanks Tweeky


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pill Monster*
> 
> Well fwiw I'm running Kingston HyperX 2400mhz @1.575v.
> 
> HyperX comes with Hynix IC's which are pretty stable and great for overclocking. Btw 2400 won't give you any real performance gains except in benchmark scores.


In some recent testing I did in light of the thread on the Intel side about minimum FPS between DDR3-1600 and 2133, I would say there is a definite difference to be had gaming-wise. I found my minimum FPS raised by about 5-8 FPS on average and in the case of Skyrim went up from 26 FPS to 40 FPS, and gaming is much smoother with 2400 over 1600.

Also, does anyone know how the heck to make cool 'n quiet to actually do its job? I'm running in offset mode and not getting any clock or voltage drop at idle.


----------



## shampoo911

i had my ripjaws x... that were rated at 2133mhz with cas9... running at 2400mhz with 10-12-11-28 1T with 1.65v

performance was just marginal... nothing that could impress me... i think the sweet spot of the zambezi chips, is 2133mhz... IMO


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heuchler*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Silly me was concerned about RAM going over 1.67v to get 2133mhz stable. It's partially why I gave up on it.
> 
> 
> 
> "JEDEC states that memory modules must withstand up to 1.975" isn't the same as saying you AMD CPU will take 1.98v on DDR3.
> 
> Sabertooth 990FX manual says "according to AMD CPU spec, DIMM with voltage requirement over 1.65V may damage the CPU permanently"
> 
> I think 1.70 vdimm will be fine for 24/7 overclocking. but I could be wrong.
> 
> Phenom 2 has DDR2 and DDR3 controllers.
> While the FX is a whole different beast.
> 
> Edit
> 
> AMD FX Performance Tuning Guide (back from 2011- FX-8150) page 19
> has DDR3 1.60 - 1.80v for air (and up to 1.85v extreme cooling - LN2)
Click to expand...









Thanks for that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pill Monster*
> 
> Well fwiw I'm running Kingston HyperX 2400mhz @1.575v.
> 
> HyperX comes with Hynix IC's which are pretty stable and great for overclocking. Btw 2400 won't give you any real performance gains except in benchmark scores.
> 
> 
> 
> In some recent testing I did in light of the thread on the Intel side about minimum FPS between DDR3-1600 and 2133, I would say there is a definite difference to be had gaming-wise. I found my minimum FPS raised by about 5-8 FPS on average and in the case of Skyrim went up from 26 FPS to 40 FPS, and gaming is much smoother with 2400 over 1600.
> 
> Also, does anyone know how the heck to make cool 'n quiet to actually do its job? I'm running in offset mode and not getting any clock or voltage drop at idle.
Click to expand...

We need someone like this to do AMD side of things with the Vishera chips.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> We need someone like this to do AMD side of things with the Vishera chips.


I'd be happy to give it a go this weekend when I have some time.


----------



## Pill Monster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> In some recent testing I did in light of the thread on the Intel side about minimum FPS between DDR3-1600 and 2133, I would say there is a definite difference to be had gaming-wise. I found my minimum FPS raised by about 5-8 FPS on average and in the case of Skyrim went up from 26 FPS to 40 FPS, and gaming is much smoother with 2400 over 1600.
> 
> Also, does anyone know how the heck to make cool 'n quiet to actually do its job? I'm running in offset mode and not getting any clock or voltage drop at idle.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I'd be happy to give it a go this weekend when I have some time.


It's been beat to death already, there's benchmarks all over the net dating from at least 3 years ago with AnandTech and Xtreme Systems Toms Hardwareand also Guru 3D.

I've seen all the articles and results, there is just no way on earth you saw a 14fPS gain in Skyrim or any other game, memory just doesn't have that kind of impact on gaming.

Even AMD devs admitted there wasn't a lot of gain to be had on FX by running over 1600mhz. I've been with AMD since the days of Athlon XP and if there was any benefit to had I'm sure I would know.

I'll be happy to provide links to above mentioned articles if need be.....hell even Guru3D does all their GPU bench tests with 1600mhz ram....when using FX CPU's.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pill Monster*
> 
> It's been beat to death already, there's benchmarks all over the net dating from at least 3 years ago with AnandTech and Xtreme Systems Toms Hardwareand also Guru 3D.
> 
> I've seen all the articles and results, there is just no way on earth you saw a 14fPS gain in Skyrim or any other game, memory just doesn't have that kind of impact on gaming.
> 
> Even AMD devs admitted there wasn't a lot of gain to be had on FX by running over 1600mhz. I've been with AMD since the days of Athlon XP and if there was any benefit to had I'm sure I would know.
> 
> I'll be happy to provide links to above mentioned articles if need be.....hell even Guru3D does all their GPU bench tests with 1600mhz ram....when using FX CPU's.


They somehow had Vishera chips 3 years ago? What sorcery is this?


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i have owned 3 6100s and they were a pita to oc (granted they were not under water) ... didnt like going too much and wouldnt let me do my ram either...... fyi. granted i was using a giga board. tempted to see what it could do on a sabertooth.
> honestly have not had much time to deal with my pc just recased my wifes pc and been letting this prime.... still unable to get 32 gb stable. howeveri can say it boots up a bit faster. the circle in win 8 log on does not even make a quarter turn ( used to take ~3/4 ) honestly besides that i have only checked email/ web surfed while it primed.
> 
> found a few sensor programs were not playing nicly with each other when i booted which was causing bsod. to me things do feel faster. ill keep you posted.
> imo that is really up to you . i did it for looks/ and so i can comfortably oc via fsb without having to worry ram was crashing me.
> 
> ill keep you up to date as well how i feel. tried 32gb in a few configs left in prime and ~ 2 hours each came back and they failed till i went back. got manual setting working ( from docp [those programs i mentioned that were not happy were the cause(one was ai suite so i am not surprised LOL but i like some of the features it allows )])
> 
> i am going to see about tightening timings. but i can post a maxxmem score.
> 
> 
> 
> not on fresh reboot and after many programs opened but usually pretty average with this mem so far it really is my timings. that i need to mess with may lower freq to do so idk we will see gonna be busy this week


The same ram at 2133Mhz


----------



## Krusher33

I wonder why the write dropped.


----------



## Heuchler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pill Monster*
> 
> It's been beat to death already, there's benchmarks all over the net dating from at least 3 years ago with AnandTech and Xtreme Systems Toms Hardwareand also Guru 3D.
> 
> I've seen all the articles and results, there is just no way on earth you saw a 14fPS gain in Skyrim or any other game, memory just doesn't have that kind of impact on gaming.
> 
> Even AMD devs admitted there wasn't a lot of gain to be had on FX by running over 1600mhz. I've been with AMD since the days of Athlon XP and if there was any benefit to had I'm sure I would know.
> 
> I'll be happy to provide links to above mentioned articles if need be.....hell even Guru3D does all their GPU bench tests with 1600mhz ram....when using FX CPU's.


Just one major problem with AnandTech, Tom Hardware and Guru3D (need to check Xtreme Systems findings) but they never overclock the NB-CPU (memory controller) that would be a major benefit to memory being overclocked.
Tony from OCZ did some very detailed testing many years ago on x4 but Bulldozer isn't
Phenom II. They don't share a common memory controller. I don't expect major performance
gains when just overclocking the ram and leaving the rest of the system stock (CPU, NB and even HT).
Overclocking for me is removing as much of a performance bottleneck as I can. Will nice ram give
you more than a few frames a second ? maybe but most likely not in modern games.

at low graphic settings and low resolution (not GPU limited) I could see higher gains (especially running multi GPU setup).
14 FPS could be less than 5% performance gains. Depends what you are testing and how you are testing.

Most Hardware review sites do flawed reviews. They should test real work applications and a wide selection of games.
Compression and encoding. synthetic benchmarks are a dime a dozens. chances are we aren't going to use 100% of
our memory. So, real programs would show real world gains. Prices have gone down a lot over the last few years. The
price difference isn't that much between oc friendly kits to designed for oc kits. I remember paying $100 per megabyte.

Just sharing my point of view Pill Monster.

My A64 really like my Winbond BH-6 and my PH2 works really well with my Tracers w/ D9GMH chips. Memory isn't all the same.


----------



## Tweeky

this is my CH4F with a 1090T


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> The same ram at 2133Mhz


had time to do a few tweaks... still not done and not posted in correct order.





fyi told you i was not done tweeking that was based on stock timings. and yes the one you quoted was done after these.


----------



## Heuchler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> this is my CH4F with a 1090T


Tweeky that look really good (compared to my x6 DDR2-990 5-5-5-15 and DDR-1333 8-8-8-20). thanks.

damnit Mega Man don't make me regret not going with FX-8350.


----------



## Mistral




----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> had time to do a few tweaks... still not done and not posted in correct order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fyi told you i was not done tweeking that was based on stock timings. and yes the one you quoted was done after these.


Those are some nice scores for Vishera. I'll have to try updating from 1.98 and see if I can get some better results myself. I believe 11.31 was the most I could get previously with my 8350. And I see you got those sammies juiced pretty good!


----------



## THC Butterz

what the hell are you guys doing to get ram that fast, I have tried 1333, 1600, and 1866 along with everything in between, I have both my nb and ht at arround 2500 24/7 and 2600 unstable for some benches and cant get past 11000 on read write or copy, is fx really that much nicer to memory than my [email protected] 4.2?

edit: although i can get my latency down to between 32-35 depending on the test


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Those are some nice scores for Vishera. I'll have to try updating from 1.98 and see if I can get some better results myself. I believe 11.31 was the most I could get previously with my 8350. And I see you got those sammies juiced pretty good!


not prime stable yet... hence why i went to stock..... taking lots o volts...thanks as well

also no longer using sammies..... i still play with them. but 24/7 using gskill 2400 cl10 16gb


----------



## Mega Man

double


----------



## Mega Man

not prime stable yet... hence why i went to stock..... taking lots o volts...thanks as well

also no longer using sammies i lied.... these are on my sammies....musta not saved my other screens owell..... i still play with them. but 24/7 using gskill 2400 cl10 16gb
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> what the hell are you guys doing to get ram that fast, I have tried 1333, 1600, and 1866 along with everything in between, I have both my nb and ht at arround 2500 24/7 and 2600 unstable for some benches and cant get past 11000 on read write or copy, is fx really that much nicer to memory than my [email protected] 4.2?
> 
> edit: although i can get my latency down to between 32-35 depending on the test


i never had phemon II.... but yes imo yes


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> what the hell are you guys doing to get ram that fast, I have tried 1333, 1600, and 1866 along with everything in between, I have both my nb and ht at arround 2500 24/7 and 2600 unstable for some benches and cant get past 11000 on read write or copy, is fx really that much nicer to memory than my [email protected] 4.2?
> 
> edit: although i can get my latency down to between 32-35 depending on the test


You have to push your nb up to and past 2800mhz to get higher frequncy with ram using thuban. Which usually requires a voltage bump on cpu/nb up to 1.3- 1.325 for me. Here's my 1100T



I like FX, 10 fps better in gaming, but enjoy oc'ing the thubans better.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> what the hell are you guys doing to get ram that fast, I have tried 1333, 1600, and 1866 along with everything in between, I have both my nb and ht at arround 2500 24/7 and 2600 unstable for some benches and cant get past 11000 on read write or copy, is fx really that much nicer to memory than my [email protected] 4.2?
> 
> edit: although i can get my latency down to between 32-35 depending on the test
> 
> 
> 
> You have to push your nb up to and past 2800mhz to get higher frequncy with ram using thuban. Which usually requires a voltage bump on cpu/nb up to 1.3- 1.325 for me. Here's my 1100T
> 
> 
> 
> I like FX, 10 fps better in gaming, but enjoy oc'ing the thubans better.
Click to expand...

ok, thanks, what voltages would i need to get that high, and would my motherboard need to be watercooled?


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Also, does anyone know how the heck to make cool 'n quiet to actually do its job? I'm running in offset mode and not getting any clock or voltage drop at idle.


Aye, I've had the same issue.

It only seemed to happen with a fsb overclock.

With a pure multiplier oc CnQ does what it's suposed to.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Aye, I've had the same issue.
> 
> It only seemed to happen with a fsb overclock.
> 
> With a pure multiplier oc CnQ does what it's suposed to.


do you guys have turbo on or off?


----------



## THC Butterz

i have my oc set fairly high, and im still not scoreing anywhere near as high as you guys, also I just notesed my ram is reading single chanel, I have my sticks in slots 2 and 4 any idea why its not reading dual cannel?

I had to switch my ram into slots 1 and 3 to get into dual channel mode, and took another bench,


----------



## electech13

*Anyone here know the textbook definition or just exactly how the "Cool n' Quiet - Disable by CPU" works?* ...I've seen it recommended to be used on a few forums.. but it never seems to kick in at all.. with Cool n' Quiet enabled..it's up and down and all over the place all the time.. and when using FULL load, it will stay at max clock.. this is how it's supposed to work... but "Disable by CPU"...? Not sure how that one activates/de-activates itself.. any clue?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electech13*
> 
> *Anyone here know the textbook definition or just exactly how the "Cool n' Quiet - Disable by CPU" works?* ...I've seen it recommended to be used on a few forums.. but it never seems to kick in at all.. with Cool n' Quiet enabled..it's up and down and all over the place all the time.. and when using FULL load, it will stay at max clock.. this is how it's supposed to work... but "Disable by CPU"...? Not sure how that one activates/de-activates itself.. any clue?


I don't know, what I do know is the setting doesn't do squat no matter what. I reset my BIOS to stock and it still doesn't throttle down even after 30 minutes of idling.


----------



## electech13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Anyone running 2400mhz RAM with the R2.0 board?


After FINALLY getting all the ram issues figured out after a week or two with my board, I realized I HAD to ALWAYS start off with using the DOCP profiles FIRST to get any of my dimms to run at their higher rated freq's (ie. 2400, etc).. and now I easily can run 2400 on many different sets.. even have been able to get up to 2505Mhz..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Copied from my post in the 8320/8350 thread: I got the 2400mhz RAM working with my 8320 and Sabertooth. Still need to test it for stability but it was quite a battle to even get booted. DOCP does not work, had to manually set everything. Also had to increase voltage to 1.675 to get Windows to play nice but everything seems fine right now.


DOCP *should* be the main tool to use to get any dimms to work at their rated speeds and if they don't via DOCP then I would assume it's likely a compatibility issue with that ram and the board.. would have to run lower or stock SPD levels.. cuz the DOCP has the optimal and tested settings, timings to get the ram working..and as stated above, I ALWAYS start off with DOCP first when setting up new dimms on their higher levels
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pill Monster*
> 
> Well fwiw I'm running Kingston HyperX 2400mhz @1.575v.
> 
> HyperX comes with Hynix IC's which are pretty stable and great for overclocking. Btw 2400 won't give you any real performance gains except in benchmark scores.


yep. I currently have the same set in this pc...two Kingston Hyper X dimms.. rated to 2400.. using DOCP first and then copying all verified working settings to run in "manual" oc.. definitely not the greatest timings.. up to 11-13-12-30..but I can run 2400 stable no problem and even up to 2505 stable with a small bus increase as well...at 1866 and above using 1.65v and only 1.7v on the one 2505 level I rarely run...

But as stated before..once I figured out the DOCP profiles..I always use them first to test and if new dimms are gonna work at their highest rated speeds, they'll have to work on their own DOCP profiles first...and then use that or copy all the settings for any "manual" oc setups.. I've now tested over 8 sets of dimms that are all 2133 and 2400 and they ALL work just fine..and some will let me go as high as 2500 with small bus increases as well.. but as others have stated, at those speeds performance increases are negligible due to timings (but for gaming, suposedly the higher freq is still better.. lower freq and tighter timings for other uses and everyday performance).. I have another set of Gskills that are CL9's at 2400 and have run them at 9-11-10-24 at that speed which is really nice.

As most know and it is clearly stated by AMD and many ram manufacturers, AMD cpu's and specifically FX processors are very "finicky" with their IMC (memory controllers) and there are lots of issues running higher clocked ram...and technically AMD officially only supports up to 1866 but that is like on the most unlikely setup.. and basically supports 1333 and 1600 for most 2 and 4 dimm setups on their FX cpu's... but with the right board.. and this Sabertooth board is a GREAT one.. one can run a LOT of different DIMMS at rather HIGH speeds, successfully! It just takes some tweaking sometimes...and ultimately depends on what you're using the system for.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> ok, thanks, what voltages would i need to get that high, and would my motherboard need to be watercooled?


No, only watercooling i have is on cpu and gpu. As i said 1.3 - 1.35 on cpu/nb voltage for 3000+ mhz Also you need ram rated for high freq. Most 1600mhz ram WILL NOT do 2133 let alone 1866 ( with the exception of sammies). I have an old set of G.Skill blk. pcb 2x2 1600's that can get 2000mhz, but they definately get a little too hot for my taste after being juiced that much. Think someone posted earlier about the set I'm running now that are great. 2x4 G.Skill Ripjaw 2133 cas 9. Head over to the X6 club. I have some generic test settings posted I use to determine overclockability of the many 1100 and 1090T's I trade.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> i have my oc set fairly high, and im still not scoreing anywhere near as high as you guys, also I just notesed my ram is reading single chanel, I have my sticks in slots 2 and 4 any idea why its not reading dual cannel?
> 
> I had to switch my ram into slots 1 and 3 to get into dual channel mode, and took another bench,


Your ram is holding you back. You're not going to see as high scores, because regardless of the popular belief that phenoms II do not perform better above 1600 mhz, you do need higher frequencies to score better. Also breaking 3000 mhz and getting to 3150 or so will also improve score.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electech13*
> 
> After FINALLY getting all the ram issues figured out after a week or two with my board, I realized I HAD to ALWAYS start off with using the DOCP profiles FIRST to get any of my dimms to run at their higher rated freq's (ie. 2400, etc).. and now I easily can run 2400 on many different sets.. even have been able to get up to 2505Mhz..
> DOCP *should* be the main tool to use to get any dimms to work at their rated speeds and if they don't via DOCP then I would assume it's likely a compatibility issue with that ram and the board.. would have to run lower or stock SPD levels.. cuz the DOCP has the optimal and tested settings, timings to get the ram working..and as stated above, I ALWAYS start off with DOCP first when setting up new dimms on their higher levels
> yep. I currently have the same set in this pc...two Kingston Hyper X dimms.. rated to 2400.. using DOCP first and then copying all verified working settings to run in "manual" oc.. definitely not the greatest timings.. up to 11-13-12-30..but I can run 2400 stable no problem and even up to 2505 stable with a small bus increase as well...at 1866 and above using 1.65v and only 1.7v on the one 2505 level I rarely run...


DOCP just pulls the XMP profile, nothing magical about it. They just can't call it XMP because that is licensed to Intel. If the memory isn't supported by the BIOS then most of the time it won't work, like my Geil set. Works fine with manual timings matching the XMP profile though.


----------



## Pill Monster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> In some recent testing I did in light of the thread on the Intel side about minimum FPS between DDR3-1600 and 2133, I would say there is a definite difference to be had gaming-wise. I found my minimum FPS raised by about 5-8 FPS on average and in the case of Skyrim went up from 26 FPS to 40 FPS, and gaming is much smoother with 2400 over 1600.
> 
> Also, does anyone know how the heck to make cool 'n quiet to actually do its job? I'm running in offset mode and not getting any clock or voltage drop at idle.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Aye, I've had the same issue.
> 
> It only seemed to happen with a fsb overclock.
> 
> With a pure multiplier oc CnQ does what it's suposed to.


Go to *Windows Control Panel/Power Options* and make sure _*Min Processor State*_ isn't set to 100%. If it is, reduce it to something like 5%.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pill Monster*
> 
> Go to *Windows Control Panel/Power Options* and make sure _*Min Processor State*_ isn't set to 100%. If it is, reduce it to something like 5%.


Who would have thought that even the power saver option would say 100%? This totally fixed it. TYVM. Although it brought my idle power use down to only ~205W from ~260W.









+rep


----------



## ITAngel

Anyone here know why the Sabertooth 990FX Fans are running full speed? This is under Windows 8 and I can't figure out for the live of me how to bring the speed down to quite.


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Anyone here know why the Sabertooth 990FX Fans are running full speed? This is under Windows 8 and I can't figure out for the live of me how to bring the speed down to quite.


Are they 3 pin fans plugged into the fan headers? If that's the case they will run at full speed.


----------



## Tweeky

*"Cool n' Quiet" * works for me when the CPU is loaded it increase the voltage, frequency and fans and when not loaded the setting are lower see pictures


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> do you guys have turbo on or off?


Off.


----------



## Tweeky

if your overclocked you should turn it off


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Are they 3 pin fans plugged into the fan headers? If that's the case they will run at full speed.


Actually, they won't - except for the two analog pwm cpu headers, the pwm case fan headers use a thing like digital pwm, I think, because they control my 3-pin fans in Windows just fine. Digital pwm sends pulses of 12v. Analog uses the pwm-signal and run on a constant 12v.

Though I downloaded Asus' Fan Xpert, which surprisingly is missing from the Sabertooth AI Suite. But you can download it from the page of another am3+ board like the M5A99X-EVO.

I guess the Thermal Radar function the Sabertooth comes with might also function, but I find it cumbersome to work with and haven't tried it in Windows 8.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Actually, they won't - except for the two analog pwm cpu headers, the pwm case fan headers use a thing like digital pwm, I think, because they control my 3-pin fans in Windows just fine. Digital pwm sends pulses of 12v. Analog uses the pwm-signal and run on a constant 12v.
> 
> Though I downloaded Asus' Fan Xpert, which surprisingly is missing from the Sabertooth AI Suite. But you can download it from the page of another am3+ board like the M5A99X-EVO.
> 
> I guess the Thermal Radar function the Sabertooth comes with might also function, but I find it cumbersome to work with and haven't tried it in Windows 8.


I can attest to the thermal radar fan controls being "cumbersome". However it does work and I'm using it right now to control my 8x AP-45's on the chassis headers and 3x PWM Specters on the CPU header.

EDIT: got rid of the 92mm and added a pair of Lepa 70D 80mm fans to cool the VRM, using the 7V adapters they are nice and quiet and move a decent amount of air.


----------



## ITAngel

Thanks guys, the fans were trying to run faster because the one from the CPU was running slower since the CPU temp was down. I found the settings and manually drop the speed of the fans.


----------



## ITAngel

Nevermind I figure it out finally thanks to some old post here in the forum. XD


----------



## Cartel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> i have my oc set fairly high, and im still not scoreing anywhere near as high as you guys, also I just notesed my ram is reading single chanel, I have my sticks in slots 2 and 4 any idea why its not reading dual cannel?
> 
> I had to switch my ram into slots 1 and 3 to get into dual channel mode, and took another bench,


single channel?


----------



## DeviloftheHell

hi, i just got a new rev2 with 4x8gb 1866mhz geil rams (GEV332GB1866C9QC) cpu is still an old 1090t with stock cooler so i didnt brothered to raise the frequency, before i removed the old ch4formula mb i gave the rams a quick test selected its profile for 1866mhz ran fine with only 2 sticks due to the mb limit, without raisingtoo much except cpu speed as i remember it ran fine win7 booted up too, now i try to set the same in this mobo it raises everything with it which isnt a problem, but when the windows boots up it crashes, and only up to 1600mhz can be selected as memory speed on auto, in docp i can go higher of course, with a bit tweaking i could get out of the processor another 2gb/s memory bandwith. it always ran around 7-8gb/s. (on a k2600 intel it runs above 20gb/s at 1600mhz and even more at 1866mhz.
when i got the new 8350 will that default memory speed setting allow the 1866 mode by default or still had to tweak the whole thing up?
what can cause the instability on this board when set to the xmp profile of the ram rans fine at 1600mhz btw cpu-nb set to 2600 as the ht speed rest auto or default


----------



## Tweeky

a new motherboard requires a clean boot drive and a clean windows 7 install because windows will use the old motherboard drivers if drive is not clean

will 2 sticks work on the new motherboard at memory factory settings


----------



## DeviloftheHell

at 1600mhz it runs just fine with the old install didnt complain about anything, as for 2 sticks dunno will try it but i dont think it will change anything and for the long term i need all 4 anyway due to memory using cad/render software, still a long time for next month when i can get the new cpu


----------



## Tweeky

look up D.O.C.P. in the bios section of the manual and use it to set the memory first


----------



## DeviloftheHell

got it working, had to keep the the ht below 2600mhz and the cpu-nb is above 3000mhz and it boots up fine


----------



## andjayik

Just bought a ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2 and want to know what setting disables my hard drives from showing in the safetly remove hardware icons? I have 1 ssd and 2 sata hard drives when i click on the icon they all show up in there, how do i disable it from showing in there?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andjayik*
> 
> Just bought a ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2 and want to know what setting disables my hard drives from showing in the safetly remove hardware icons? I have 1 ssd and 2 sata hard drives when i click on the icon they all show up in there, how do i disable it from showing in there?


if not already there goto "advanced mode" of bios
in the advanced section

advanced >> onboard devices config >> enable both "oprom" (front and rear)


----------



## andjayik

it was already enabled?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andjayik*
> 
> it was already enabled?


i dunno then they work fine on mine when enabled. are you running in ahci ?


----------



## andjayik

i have it set to ahci


----------



## andjayik

i have it set to ahci


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andjayik*
> 
> i have it set to ahci


In AHCI sata drives are hot-swapable, so I'd imagine that's why you get the removable media option for them.

I have no iddea on how to disable the option in AHCI for sata drives.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviloftheHell*
> 
> got it working, had to keep the the ht below 2600mhz and the cpu-nb is above 3000mhz and it boots up fine


On Thubans you only need to keep HT close to 2000mhz as possible and the NB needs to be no less than 1.5x the RAM speed.


----------



## Pill Monster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andjayik*
> 
> Just bought a ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2 and want to know what setting disables my hard drives from showing in the safetly remove hardware icons? I have 1 ssd and 2 sata hard drives when i click on the icon they all show up in there, how do i disable it from showing in there?


The task bar notifications can be turned off by navigating to Control Panel\All Control Panel Items\Notification Area Icons and disabling the Safely Remove Hardware icon.


----------



## Pill Monster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> a new motherboard requires a clean boot drive and a clean windows 7 install because windows will use the old motherboard drivers if drive is not clean
> 
> will 2 sticks work on the new motherboard at memory factory settings


That's not true.

Windows will redetect the new hardware and install the appropriate drivers. People swap out motherboards all the time without reinstalling the OS.\

Besides which, drivers can't be installed on incompatible hardware so no it doesn't use the old drivers.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> if your overclocked you should turn it off


That's not true either and hasn't been since the Phenom 1. We aren't running Athlon X2's anymore, Cool n Quiet has come a long way since then and is very styable.


----------



## vic l

Disable hot swap in bios.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pill Monster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> a new motherboard requires a clean boot drive and a clean windows 7 install because windows will use the old motherboard drivers if drive is not clean
> 
> will 2 sticks work on the new motherboard at memory factory settings
> 
> 
> 
> That's not true.
> 
> Windows will redetect the new hardware and install the appropriate drivers. People swap out motherboards all the time without reinstalling the OS.\
> 
> Besides which, drivers can't be installed on incompatible hardware so no it doesn't use the old drivers.
Click to expand...

I'm one of those that just swaps out mobo's and install new drivers. I haven't had an issue over the many times I done it. The only annoyance in each case is calling Windows automated machine to get a re-activation code. But that sure beats doing a clean install.


----------



## Tweeky

We are talking turbo here


----------



## Tweeky

asus has said one needs a clean windows install with a new motherboard

it may work at first but in time you will have to clean install windows as it will never completely run stable

asus has said that there are over 200 setting and driver that are on the hard drive from the old motherboard and even with a format windows will find and use the old information as part of its automatic repair


----------



## Heuchler

If I was an Manufacture I would tell users to do a clean install. Would
cut back in customer service, tech support and RMA a lot.

A lot of people get cut up in driver sweep and the lot when upgrading video drivers.
Rinse Repeat cycle. Best OS is a clean OS. but not necessary. upgrade
from nForce2 to nForce3 motherboard without redoing Windows (socket a to socket 754).

P.S. - Pill Monster it just looks weird not seeing the "Banned" logo under you name. took
forever to place you. I only recognize you by the picture not name.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> asus has said one needs a clean windows install with a new motherboard
> 
> it may work at first but in time you will have to clean install windows as it will never completely run stable
> 
> asus has said that there are over 200 setting and driver that are on the hard drive from the old motherboard and even with a format windows will find and use the old information as part of its automatic repair


And momma said ASUS is the devil.









But for real... many computers I have done swapping motherboards out but keeping the same Windows install without a hitch. The only times I have done clean installs are when I get some major virus infection or so many failed overclocking attempts borked up my boot and Windows repair couldn't fix.


----------



## electech13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electech13*
> 
> *Anyone here know the textbook definition or just exactly how the "Cool n' Quiet - Disable by CPU" works?* ...I've seen it recommended to be used on a few forums.. but it never seems to kick in at all.. with Cool n' Quiet enabled..it's up and down and all over the place all the time.. and when using FULL load, it will stay at max clock.. this is how it's supposed to work... but "Disable by CPU"...? Not sure how that one activates/de-activates itself.. any clue?
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know, what I do know is the setting doesn't do squat no matter what. I reset my BIOS to stock and it still doesn't throttle down even after 30 minutes of idling.
Click to expand...

Yours doesn't work at all? That's strange! If fully enabled or "Always Enabled" you should notice it immediately and often. If will run between 1-2GHz a lot and jump around a ton and if doing big tasks or full load via stress test, etc then it will jump to max clock and stay there til task is done.

If you can't get it working at all I'd get that checked!

Aside from that, anyone else know how CnQ works when "Disabled by CPU"?

Sent from my SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## electech13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> i have my oc set fairly high, and im still not scoreing anywhere near as high as you guys, also I just notesed my ram is reading single chanel, I have my sticks in slots 2 and 4 any idea why its not reading dual cannel?
> 
> I had to switch my ram into slots 1 and 3 to get into dual channel mode, and took another bench,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your ram is holding you back. You're not going to see as high scores, because regardless of the popular belief that phenoms II do not perform better above 1600 mhz, you do need higher frequencies to score better. Also breaking 3000 mhz and getting to 3150 or so will also improve score.
Click to expand...

I have to agree with this^^ as the ram can definitely hold u back from higher oc's. Try and get ram rated higher then 1600/1800 so as to give you more headroom for tweaking and oc'ing..its affected me personally several times and made big difference getting better ram (doesn't cost that much more anyways) and I've read a lot about this from others on this site too..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electech13*
> 
> After FINALLY getting all the ram issues figured out after a week or two with my board, I realized I HAD to ALWAYS start off with using the DOCP profiles FIRST to get any of my dimms to run at their higher rated freq's (ie. 2400, etc).. and now I easily can run 2400 on many different sets.. even have been able to get up to 2505Mhz..
> DOCP *should* be the main tool to use to get any dimms to work at their rated speeds and if they don't via DOCP then I would assume it's likely a compatibility issue with that ram and the board.. would have to run lower or stock SPD levels.. cuz the DOCP has the optimal and tested settings, timings to get the ram working..and as stated above, I ALWAYS start off with DOCP first when setting up new dimms on their higher levels
> yep. I currently have the same set in this pc...two Kingston Hyper X dimms.. rated to 2400.. using DOCP first and then copying all verified working settings to run in "manual" oc.. definitely not the greatest timings.. up to 11-13-12-30..but I can run 2400 stable no problem and even up to 2505 stable with a small bus increase as well...at 1866 and above using 1.65v and only 1.7v on the one 2505 level I rarely run...
> 
> 
> 
> DOCP just pulls the XMP profile, nothing magical about it. They just can't call it XMP because that is licensed to Intel. If the memory isn't supported by the BIOS then most of the time it won't work, like my Geil set. Works fine with manual timings matching the XMP profile though.
Click to expand...

Yeah sorry...I didn't state clearly..I was aware that the DOCP is AMD's way of naming the same Intel XMP profiles...I just wasn't aware that I had to or should have used those first to get the high ram clocks before just simply setting the lone ram freq to the higher number..failed every time! But docp was perfect and then copied same settings for manual input with my manual overall PC oc's. All is great now and can easily run 2400-2500Mhz on my two dimm's!

Sent from my SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electech13*
> 
> Yeah sorry...I didn't state clearly..I was aware that the DOCP is AMD's way of naming the same Intel XMP profiles...I just wasn't aware that I had to or should have used those first to get the high ram clocks before just simply setting the lone ram freq to the higher number..failed every time! But docp was perfect and then copied same settings for manual input with my manual overall PC oc's. All is great now and can easily run 2400-2500Mhz on my two dimm's!
> 
> Sent from my SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


Yeah, for me it was the other way around. DOCP failed every time and I had to enter all the timings and sub-timing manually for it to work. DOCP would be preferable if it works with your memory set since it will read all of the correct values.


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pill Monster*
> 
> Go to *Windows Control Panel/Power Options* and make sure _*Min Processor State*_ isn't set to 100%. If it is, reduce it to something like 5%.


I'm not seeing this option in Windows 7 64bit.

By the way what is DOCP? Can it help me get better memory overclocks?


----------



## Mega Man

my cNq does not do anything either.... unless my turbo is active .

tried everything already posted.


----------



## DeviloftheHell

i had a problem with it on the old board+ a year old win7 install on it, a complete drive format+reinstall solved the problem without any poking in bios


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> By the way what is DOCP? Can it help me get better memory overclocks?


DRAM Over Clock Profile. It is a BIOS option for using data embedded in RAM sticks to set the BIOS up to use the memory settings stored there. It is similar to XMP (Xtended Memory Profile) for intel chips.

I run Corsair Dominator GT memory, it is sold as a set of 1866 speed memory, the BIOS automatically sets it to 1600, for me to use it's faster speed I select DOCP in the BIOS memory settings, and the mobo looks for the timings etc. from the data on the RAM and sets it up to run at manufacturer's settings.

You can always try to manually run them faster yet.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*
> 
> DRAM Over Clock Profile. It is a BIOS option for using data embedded in RAM sticks to set the BIOS up to use the memory settings stored there. It is similar to XMP (Xtended Memory Profile) for intel chips.
> 
> I run Corsair Dominator GT memory, it is sold as a set of 1866 speed memory, the BIOS automatically sets it to 1600, for me to use it's faster speed I select DOCP in the BIOS memory settings, and the mobo looks for the timings etc. from the data on the RAM and sets it up to run at manufacturer's settings.
> 
> You can always try to manually run them faster yet.


so true but fyi when i use my 2400 gskill even selecting the docp option it didnt set timings, i had to set it to 2400 still and manually set main timings for some reason...


----------



## RichardPwnsner

Any word on when the Gen3 ships? I've been holding off ordering a new mobo to see the price point, but I'd say we're past 'mid-March' at this point.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardPwnsner*
> 
> Any word on when the Gen3 ships? I've been holding off ordering a new mobo to see the price point, but I'd say we're past 'mid-March' at this point.


yea :/ me too no release date to my knowledge

debating about the formula z or this one ( may go formula due to red color scheme i am going with


----------



## RichardPwnsner

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea :/ me too no release date to my knowledge
> 
> debating about the formula z or this one ( may go formula due to red color scheme i am going with


I'm planning on Sabertooth, as it's near the ceiling of my budget, but I'll pass if they keep the current 2.0 at $190 and introduce the Gen3 at a higher price. Tempted to try another manufacturer after my M4A79XTD experience, but I've heard good things about this board and have been told that Asus's premium components are much more reliable.


----------



## Krusher33

Does anyone know the specific color names of the heatsinks on the 1st board? I don't want to take off the heatsink to take with me to some place to find out if I don't have to.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardPwnsner*
> 
> I
> I'm planning on Sabertooth, as it's near the ceiling of my budget, but I'll pass if they keep the current 2.0 at $190 and introduce the Gen3 at a higher price. Tempted to try another manufacturer after my M4A79XTD experience, but I've heard good things about this board and have been told that Asus's premium components are much more reliable.


i was a gigabyte guy ( 5 different mobos ) never did me wrong and wont speak wrong about them however the moment i first booted my saberkitty ill never look back
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Does anyone know the specific color names of the heatsinks on the 1st board? I don't want to take off the heatsink to take with me to some place to find out if I don't have to.


all boards have same color scheme ( 990fx )


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> all boards have same color scheme ( 990fx )


They are actually quite different on the heatsinks. The original Sabertooth was olive green, the R2.0 is brown. It is hard to notice unless you see them right next to each other.


----------



## hotrod717

Well my sabertooth just took a dump. Cpu led. Tried another cpu and a different psu. took out gpu and ram. still no joy. Waiting on live chat. Never had to rma anything before. What do ido for fastest response and replacement


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Well my sabertooth just took a dump. Cpu led. Tried another cpu and a different psu. took out gpu and ram. still no joy. Waiting on live chat. Never had to rma anything before. What do ido for fastest response and replacement


I wish you luck, I've had nothing but issues with Asus RMA. DOCUMENT your packing job and the condition of the board thoroughly before you send it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> They are actually quite different on the heatsinks. The original Sabertooth was olive green, the R2.0 is brown. It is hard to notice unless you see them right next to each other.


really ? wow didnt know that thanks !~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Well my sabertooth just took a dump. Cpu led. Tried another cpu and a different psu. took out gpu and ram. still no joy. Waiting on live chat. Never had to rma anything before. What do ido for fastest response and replacement


really sucks man GL


----------



## hotrod717

Maybe I"ll luck out and get a newer rev. Prolly not though.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> really ? wow didnt know that thanks !~
> really sucks man GL


You can see it pretty well in the OP pictures:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> Motherboards:
> 
> ASUS Sabertooth 990FX
> 
> ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2
> 
> ASUS Sabertooth 990FX/GEN 3 R2


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> You can see it pretty well in the OP pictures:


wow... now i know why i felt my mobo looked a bit different then i thought it would.... subtle but definitely different.... sorry i was wrong about that...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Maybe I"ll luck out and get a newer rev. Prolly not though.


the new revs are not out yet.. you are stuck with us XD


----------



## hotrod717

Yeah, I know. Been looking for the gen3, but rev. 2 would give newer bios" for my 8350 at least.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Yeah, I know. Been looking for the gen3, but rev. 2 would give newer bios" for my 8350 at least.


meh worst cast download new bios to usb plug it in and press button on back. dont even need cpu installed to do it


----------



## Heuchler

sucks about your board hotrod.

I would call in and talk to somebody at asus. make a buddy with the rma guy.
take pictures of your board and how you package it. follow rma directions to the letter.
double box that shiet. don't include anything that they didn't ask for. have you rma number
on the outside of the box and include a nice note for the rma guys/tech that will process your
ticket (name, email, and what issue you have along with the rma #).

good luck. hope you get a new board.


----------



## hotrod717

Approved for advance rma. Waiting for email to show stock. Already have fedex label. Wasn't too bad.
I did have to wait on phone for about 35 min. to actually get someone though. Asked about when new gen 3 would hit retail at end of call. Guy said he would probably find out when someone called in with new serial #. Lol. I'll keep you guys posted.


----------



## JaWriter

Just a heads up,

I've been tracking the new GEN 3 board and trying to figure out when / where it might land. But the intranets has been a black hole of doom.

But I did manage to go down and talk to one of the Ship/Recieving monkeys over at my local Fry's ellectronics store. Said he was due to get a shipment of the 990 FX motherboards on the 28th of march. It didn't say if it were the GEN3 models, but he did say he was getting in 10 of the boards which was wierd as he was still up on stock on the standard R2 boards (and probably the version I'm looking for).

So tentatively, sometime around the 28th.

Closest I've been able to come to finding evidence that these boards are being shipped, but its still not hard evidence.

^.^


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Approved for advance rma. Waiting for email to show stock. Already have fedex label. Wasn't too bad.
> I did have to wait on phone for about 35 min. to actually get someone though. Asked about when new gen 3 would hit retail at end of call. Guy said he would probably find out when someone called in with new serial #. Lol. I'll keep you guys posted.


what does end of call mean ?


----------



## Pill Monster

You guys that are having trouble getting CnQ to work - are you using offset voltage for the vcore?


----------



## Mega Man

yes i was but i didnt enable the epu power saver ... that was my problem


----------



## fohtecki

please add me, pics will come soon...

http://valid.canardpc.com/2739207


----------



## tamaska

God i really hope sabertooth 990fx/gen3 r2.0 comes out in April that's when am planing my upgrade anyone found any other info for it yet


----------



## Tater00nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JaWriter*
> 
> Just a heads up,
> 
> I've been tracking the new GEN 3 board and trying to figure out when / where it might land. But the intranets has been a black hole of doom.
> 
> But I did manage to go down and talk to one of the Ship/Recieving monkeys over at my local Fry's ellectronics store. Said he was due to get a shipment of the 990 FX motherboards on the 28th of march. It didn't say if it were the GEN3 models, but he did say he was getting in 10 of the boards which was wierd as he was still up on stock on the standard R2 boards (and probably the version I'm looking for).
> 
> So tentatively, sometime around the 28th.
> 
> Closest I've been able to come to finding evidence that these boards are being shipped, but its still not hard evidence.
> 
> ^.^


----------



## itomic

What good is PCI-E GEN3 board when u dont have support form CPU ???


----------



## Heuchler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> What good is PCI-E GEN3 board when u dont have support form CPU ???


why you think that?

Bulldozer's Secret PCI-E lanes...and already using HT 4.0?
http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=1662429&mpage=1&print=true


----------



## tamaska

i did see that post about some info about it on the 28th i was just thinking if anyone else came up with any other updates


----------



## gertruude

Expect them sometime next week. A few websites quoting middle to end of march. only 1 week left of march so here's to hoping


----------



## tamaska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> Expect them sometime next week. A few websites quoting middle to end of march. only 1 week left of march so here's to hoping


i really hope so don't want to buy the other one with this one on the way lol


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what does end of call mean ?


Meaning at the end of the phone call after the rma business was taken care of. Still waiting on stock check to come back. I'm getting impatient, even though I have another rig, this one is not in my man sanctuary with my other electrofantastic toys!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Meaning at the end of the phone call after the rma business was taken care of. Still waiting on stock check to come back. I'm getting impatient, even though I have another rig, this one is not in my man sanctuary with my other electrofantastic toys!


ah thanks .... best of luck ~


----------



## RichardPwnsner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tater00nuts*


Can we get one of these monkeys on here to officially endorse that title?


----------



## tamaska

5 days to go come on 28th lol i want more info


----------



## hotrod717

Oddly, Asus website no longer has any reference to Sabertooth R2/Gen3??? Searched and searched with no result. A week or so ago it popped up with no issue. Hope it still is planned for release. Don't understand why they would remove info if release is soon.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Oddly, Asus website no longer has any reference to Sabertooth R2/Gen3??? Searched and searched with no result. A week or so ago it popped up with no issue. Hope it still is planned for release. Don't understand why they would remove info if release is soon.


yes they do

sabertooth 990fx/gen3 r2.0

http://event.asus.com/2011/mb/TUF/product_990FXGEN3R2.htm

https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FXGEN3_R20/


----------



## tamaska

just about to say there still on there as well i guess when the 28th comes around we will have more update news about them go i hope so * throwing cash at my monitor *


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tamaska*
> 
> just about to say there still on there as well i guess when the 28th comes around we will have more update news about them go i hope so * throwing cash at my monitor *


yea waiting to upgrade my board and buy my wife a 8350 till it comes out ..... she will get this board saberkitty 2.0


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes they do
> 
> sabertooth 990fx/gen3 r2.0
> 
> http://event.asus.com/2011/mb/TUF/product_990FXGEN3R2.htm
> 
> https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FXGEN3_R20/


Try going to the site and doing a search without those links-
Asus>Motherboards>Sabertooth 990FX/Gen3 - Not there. I would like to get one. But, as I said doing a manual search of the site yields no result. There was no problem with it coming up a week or so ago. I hope I'm wrong!


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Try going to the site and doing a search without those links-
> Asus>Motherboards>Sabertooth 990FX/Gen3 - Not there. I would like to get one. But, as I said doing a manual search of the site yields no result. There was no problem with it coming up a week or so ago. I hope I'm wrong!


type in sabertooth in the search box and gen3 is top of the list. dunno what you are doing lol


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> type in sabertooth in the search box and gen3 is top of the list. dunno what you are doing lol





^^^^^ Not there. lol!


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^^^^^ Not there. lol!


Maybe you lot in usa not getting it haha. that would be a bummer


----------



## hotrod717

Probably because I'm on my alternate rig, since my Saber rev1 is on rma. Didn't update this or that. I hope! I also tried chrome and no dice.


----------



## gertruude

i looked on asus usa too and you're right no gen3 board showing up.

weird


----------



## tamaska

God i hope i don't have to wait longer then mid april that's my deadline if i have to buy the other Asus broad then so be it then I'll just have to ebay the board once the new one comes lol


----------



## azrael36

Hey folks I'm looking for opinions from some the sabertooth owners in the club as to what their experience and thoughts are on a few things. I recently bought am ASUS Sabertooth rev 1.0 board from an OCN member in the market place. I also bought AMD Phenom II 1055T and MSI 870A Fuzion w/ Antec Kuhler 620 from another member. My current rig is a gigabyte 990FXA UD3 mobo with an FX-8350 at it's core. I am wondering how others feel about how I should set things up. Specifically whether I should A: Put the 8350 on the Sabertooth and put the 1055T on the Gigabyte B: Leave the 8350 on the Gigabyte and put the 1055T on the Sabertooth C: Leave the 1055T on the MSI and buy either another FX series or APU and put it on the gigabyte

I am in a quandary as to what I should do with these gems! Please help!!!


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> type in sabertooth in the search box and gen3 is top of the list. dunno what you are doing lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^^^^^ Not there. lol!
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> i looked on asus usa too and you're right no gen3 board showing up.
> 
> weird


Meh... I don't use the USA one anymore. I always use global. The USA is always missing something and slow about updating their BIOS list for some reason.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azrael36*
> 
> Hey folks I'm looking for opinions from some the sabertooth owners in the club as to what their experience and thoughts are on a few things. I recently bought am ASUS Sabertooth rev 1.0 board from an OCN member in the market place. I also bought AMD Phenom II 1055T and MSI 870A Fuzion w/ Antec Kuhler 620 from another member. My current rig is a gigabyte 990FXA UD3 mobo with an FX-8350 at it's core. I am wondering how others feel about how I should set things up. Specifically whether I should A: Put the 8350 on the Sabertooth and put the 1055T on the Gigabyte B: Leave the 8350 on the Gigabyte and put the 1055T on the Sabertooth C: Leave the 1055T on the MSI and buy either another FX series or APU and put it on the gigabyte
> 
> I am in a quandary as to what I should do with these gems! Please help!!!


I would say it depends on what you want to do with them and how high you want to clock them. Slightly different from you but I went from a M4A785TD-V Evo to Sabertooth with my 1055T. The first board I could only get the chip to 3.8 before it started throttling and I couldn't find the setting that was doing it to disable. Then with the Sabertooth I was able to hit over 4 ghz easy. And now I have a 8350 chip in the Sabertooth and can get 5 ghz. I think folks on the UD3 are having the same issues as I did with my first board and seeing the throttling around 4.6 to 4.8 ghz.

So if you do renders or folding, I'd put the 8350 on the Sabertooth and get it as high as you can. If you're going to do benchmarks for fun or competitions, then put the 1055T on the Sabertooth because they score better in benchmarks.

For gaming... I saw no real world difference. I think you'll only see a difference between the chips if the GPU isn't handling your settings well. So for gaming I'd just pick the board for aesthetic reasons.

Just my opinion.


----------



## arcticchill360

from what ive heard being that the new sabertooth board isnt supposed to be out until the 28 i just came across this on youtube.... its an unboxing of the new board.... any one have any idea whose selling them ive been waiting for this board for a while now and none of the online retailers ive checked seem to have them instock any one have any info on this? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRQ1d3anCF4&feature=youtube_gdata


----------



## Tweeky

if the board was coming out on the 28 it would all over the net by now


----------



## SDelong

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> if the board was coming out on the 28 it would all over the net by now


I quit waiting on it and picked up an r2.0.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arcticchill360*
> 
> from what ive heard being that the new sabertooth board isnt supposed to be out until the 28 i just came across this on youtube.... its an unboxing of the new board.... any one have any idea whose selling them ive been waiting for this board for a while now and none of the online retailers ive checked seem to have them instock any one have any info on this? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRQ1d3anCF4&feature=youtube_gdata


They released the boards to reviewers quite a few weeks ago.m maybe this is what you are seeing


----------



## tamaska

dose make you wonder then is it going to be the 28th


----------



## hotrod717

After some mix up with Asus, I was assured my replacement board would be shipped today. Only thing I received was An email with shipping label, no instructions or updates on rma. Oh and my name and phone was skewed on label, but upon entering info on website it popped up???? Not a great 1st experience with Asus customer support. Hoping I'll get it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> After some mix up with Asus, I was assured my replacement board would be shipped today. Only thing I received was An email with shipping label, no instructions or updates on rma. Oh and my name and phone was skewed on label, but upon entering info on website it popped up???? Not a great 1st experience with Asus customer support. Hoping I'll get it.


hang in there asus has a fairly solid customer service side. yes they have their probs. but most people come away happy


----------



## arcticchill360

thats why im wondering... if it was/ is going to be on the 28th then why sint it all over the net and in there statement it should be released in the middle of march.... i think were past that lol


----------



## tamaska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arcticchill360*
> 
> thats why im wondering... if it was/ is going to be on the 28th then why sint it all over the net and in there statement it should be released in the middle of march.... i think were past that lol


lol yeah unless there keeping it hush hush


----------



## arcticchill360

lol i guess thats always a possibility ... kinda sux ive been waiting for this board for a while lol...


----------



## electech13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azrael36*
> 
> Hey folks I'm looking for opinions from some the sabertooth owners in the club as to what their experience and thoughts are on a few things. I recently bought am ASUS Sabertooth rev 1.0 board from an OCN member in the market place. I also bought AMD Phenom II 1055T and MSI 870A Fuzion w/ Antec Kuhler 620 from another member. My current rig is a gigabyte 990FXA UD3 mobo with an FX-8350 at it's core. I am wondering how others feel about how I should set things up. Specifically whether I should A: Put the 8350 on the Sabertooth and put the 1055T on the Gigabyte B: Leave the 8350 on the Gigabyte and put the 1055T on the Sabertooth C: Leave the 1055T on the MSI and buy either another FX series or APU and put it on the gigabyte
> 
> I am in a quandary as to what I should do with these gems! Please help!!!


Well, I personally just got my Sabertooth R2 about month and a half ago...I have an 8350 as well, coming from a Giga UD3..and although I was pleasantly surprised with it...for that price, I definitely switched that chip to the new Sabertooth board...and put my older Phenom II x4 955BE into the UD3...

couple of things with the UD3..
Bios not as specific and not as many options as the Sabertooth, especially when it comes to specific vrm power controls..
(btw, my UD3 is a Rev3..not sure about yours)
Bios is nice..UEFI as well, on the Rev3 but missing things and the voltage controls bothered me a bit..but I did manage..I prefer specific set as opposed to the "offsets" that the Giga had me use..
The UD3 board is known for it's "VDroop" and I did experience that..
It's throttling at times was a bit frustrating to overcome..but did so
the boards cooling was limited although didn't get anything too major or concerning when doing high oc's..but Sabertooth is better..

That's about it.. I would also use the Sabertooth for the 8350..but again like the other mentioned..may also depend on your uses..


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electech13*
> 
> Well, I personally just got my Sabertooth R2 about month and a half ago...I have an 8350 as well, coming from a Giga UD3..and although I was pleasantly surprised with it...for that price, I definitely switched that chip to the new Sabertooth board...and put my older Phenom II x4 955BE into the UD3...
> 
> couple of things with the UD3..
> Bios not as specific and not as many options as the Sabertooth, especially when it comes to specific vrm power controls..
> (btw, my UD3 is a Rev3..not sure about yours)
> Bios is nice..UEFI as well, on the Rev3 but missing things and the voltage controls bothered me a bit..but I did manage..I prefer specific set as opposed to the "offsets" that the Giga had me use..
> The UD3 board is known for it's "VDroop" and I did experience that..
> It's throttling at times was a bit frustrating to overcome..but did so
> the boards cooling was limited although didn't get anything too major or concerning when doing high oc's..but Sabertooth is better..
> 
> That's about it.. I would also use the Sabertooth for the 8350..but again like the other mentioned..may also depend on your uses..


Thinking about getting the Sabertooth for my 8320 because the UD5 has horrible vdroop as well. Did you do a clean build and clean install of the OS or did you just transfer. I Know that a clean install is always recommended but I have things that I can't afford to loose right now.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mayford5*
> 
> Thinking about getting the Sabertooth for my 8320 because the UD5 has horrible vdroop as well. Did you do a clean build and clean install of the OS or did you just transfer. I Know that a clean install is always recommended but I have things that I can't afford to loose right now.


Not doing a clean install of operating system when changing mobo's is bloody lazy and sometimes you cant just transfer over









If your stuff was that valuable you'd of backed it all up by now.

The problems you could face are far worse than backing up valuable data


----------



## tamaska

ok guys remember that link with the youtube video of the new asus motherboard well i was talking to the guy who showed it can gave the link on where he got it so can't be long now for it to come out here now http://www.komplett.se/k/ki.aspx?sku=777144


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> Not doing a clean install of operating system when changing mobo's is bloody lazy and sometimes you cant just transfer over
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your stuff was that valuable you'd of backed it all up by now.
> 
> The problems you could face are far worse than backing up valuable data


Yes, lazy but sometimes (in rare occasions) a necessity. The things I need to save are not restorable so no a backup would not be a viable solution. I understand exactly what you are speaking of. I have been around computers for the better part of twenty-five years. However I have performed many such operations where a similar chipset from a different board (as long as you aren't running RAID) has been surgically transplanted and ran fine until such time that a clean install was viable. No it wasn't the best choice but at the time it was the only choice. I have my OS drive but also have my DATA drives that have a backup every three days. The issue still remains that the data I need is not restorable. I will prob wait as I am running RAID0 anyways but can transfer some files when my project is over.

Thank you for your input though. I do (sincerely) appreciate it. As I said before though, I have had successful transplants before with similar chipsets from different companies and that is why I was wondering.


----------



## Krusher33

I just seen ASUS announcing it on FB just minutes ago but still not saying its release date: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=524496044260465&set=a.186749591368447.43127.179161458793927&type=1


----------



## azrael36

Anyone have any idea where I might be able to find an .iso of the installation disk for a sabertooth 990fx rev 1.0? any help would be great!


----------



## tamaska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I just seen ASUS announcing it on FB just minutes ago but still not saying its release date: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=524496044260465&set=a.186749591368447.43127.179161458793927&type=1


can't be that long now then


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azrael36*
> 
> Anyone have any idea where I might be able to find an .iso of the installation disk for a sabertooth 990fx rev 1.0? any help would be great!


Just download from their site: http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#support_Download

Go to the global one, not the US one.


----------



## arcticchill360

currency converter for the website that was selling the new sabertooth board is around 250 bux......


----------



## tamaska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arcticchill360*
> 
> currency converter for the website that was selling the new sabertooth board is around 250 bux......


yeah i guess time will tell what the cost will be for us when it comes out over here then


----------



## jdotbuch

in response to "Yes, lazy but sometimes (in rare occasions) a necessity. The things I need to save are not restorable so no a backup would not be a viable solution. I understand exactly what you are speaking of. I have been around computers for the better part of twenty-five years. However I have performed many such operations where a similar chipset from a different board (as long as you aren't running RAID) has been surgically transplanted and ran fine until such time that a clean install was viable. No it wasn't the best choice but at the time it was the only choice. I have my OS drive but also have my DATA drives that have a backup every three days. The issue still remains that the data I need is not restorable. I will prob wait as I am running RAID0 anyways but can transfer some files when my project is over.

Thank you for your input though. I do (sincerely) appreciate it. As I said before though, I have had successful transplants before with similar chipsets from different companies and that is why I was wondering."

Buy a new hard drive, install on that, leave your existing files intact?


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdotbuch*
> 
> Buy a new hard drive, install on that, leave your existing files intact?


Good point.


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azrael36*
> 
> Anyone have any idea where I might be able to find an .iso of the installation disk for a sabertooth 990fx rev 1.0? any help would be great!


http://us.estore.asus.com/index.php?l=product_list&c=3129


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tamaska*
> 
> ok guys remember that link with the youtube video of the new asus motherboard well i was talking to the guy who showed it can gave the link on where he got it so can't be long now for it to come out here now http://www.komplett.se/k/ki.aspx?sku=777144


w00000000000000000000000000000000000t!~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arcticchill360*
> 
> currency converter for the website that was selling the new sabertooth board is around 250 bux......


really not that bad imo


----------



## Walking Dude

Whats the newest STABLE Bios thats out?

TIA

WD


----------



## azrael36

when i get off of work tonight i am going to be transferring my build into a new case and a new mobo that i purchased used from a member here on OCN. the board didn't come with an installation disc, but he said that he was running the fx 8350 on it with no problems, which is exactly what i will be putting on it. i have currently downloaded the files including the newest UTD BIOS, network drivers, amd drivers, audio drivers update utilities etc and put them on a flash drive. i thought i was pretty sure i should use the ntfs file system, but reading a thread earlier today i say someone say that the flash drive should be fat32, is this correct? and is there any other files you can think of that i might need to install this board with success?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azrael36*
> 
> when i get off of work tonight i am going to be transferring my build into a new case and a new mobo that i purchased used from a member here on OCN. the board didn't come with an installation disc, but he said that he was running the fx 8350 on it with no problems, which is exactly what i will be putting on it. i have currently downloaded the files including the newest UTD BIOS, network drivers, amd drivers, audio drivers update utilities etc and put them on a flash drive. i thought i was pretty sure i should use the ntfs file system, but reading a thread earlier today i say someone say that the flash drive should be fat32, is this correct? and is there any other files you can think of that i might need to install this board with success?


yes assuming it is sabertooth usb should be fat32 just download latest drivers from amd ( i use beta without problems.... for the most part. some stuttering on sites like vevo )


----------



## azrael36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes assuming it is sabertooth usb should be fat32 just download latest drivers from amd ( i use beta without problems.... for the most part. some stuttering on sites like vevo )


yes it is the sabertooth 990fx rev 1.0 ok so i will change the file system over and move everything back onto it. i was refering to the AMD chipset drivers, i have the installation disc for my newly purchased msi tein frozr iii 7959 OC Boost edition, so thats no worry, i also am installing it to a windows 8 system


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azrael36*
> 
> yes it is the sabertooth 990fx rev 1.0 ok so i will change the file system over and move everything back onto it. i was refering to the AMD chipset drivers, i have the installation disc for my newly purchased msi tein frozr iii 7959 OC Boost edition, so thats no worry, i also am installing it to a windows 8 system


esp with a video card use the updated drivers. even if you dont use beta use the most up to date drivers. or your performance will suffer

amd driver page

more specifically

Beta drivers

Official release drivers


----------



## hucklebuck

Does anyone make a good NB, VRM waterblock for the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0?


----------



## azrael36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> esp with a video card use the updated drivers. even if you dont use beta use the most up to date drivers. or your performance will suffer
> 
> amd driver page
> 
> more specifically
> 
> Beta drivers
> 
> Official release drivers


Thanks for the help Mega Man, with your advice the switch from my old mobo and case into the new mobo/case was actually very smooth!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azrael36*
> 
> Thanks for the help Mega Man, with your advice the switch from my old mobo and case into the new mobo/case was actually very smooth!


np any time


----------



## hotrod717

Still waiting on my "advance" rma replacement and getting more frustrated. Told it would ship Tuesday, but I still don't have it. Come on, Kentucky is only 8 1/2 hours away. Even ups ground should have had it here by now. I want to call, but if I do and they have screwed something up again, I don't think I'll be able to contain myself. Hell, I got my new WB from Florida and that was shipped Tuesday. Can't help but think I should have just ordered another mobo from the start and sell one of my older ones.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Still waiting on my "advance" rma replacement and getting more frustrated. Told it would ship Tuesday, but I still don't have it. Come on, Kentucky is only 8 1/2 hours away. Even ups ground should have had it here by now. I want to call, but if I do and they have screwed something up again, I don't think I'll be able to contain myself. Hell, I got my new WB from Florida and that was shipped Tuesday. Can't help but think I should have just ordered another mobo from the start and sell one of my older ones.


----------



## dorian101

hoping to join forces with you guys, i still have much to learn about this bios and overclocking in general.


----------



## dorian101

Le me stress testing:


not a minute passed after uploading this image and two of my cores crashed
i guess i need help figuring out what im doing wrong voltage wise.
also can you please tell me if you think my temp's are acceptable or am i right on the limit, for this was a very short test and it jumped up pretty quickly.
(check out rig for more details)

Thanks in advance and please tell me if you need more details on bios settings etc'.


----------



## Krusher33

Prime isn't working for testing Vishera chips for whatever reason. Use IBT (10 passes for short tests, 20 passes for long test), some benches like Cinebench, and play a game if those passes.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Prime isn't working for testing Vishera chips for whatever reason. Use IBT (10 passes for short tests, 20 passes for long test), some benches like Cinebench, and play a game if those passes.


it does play ok with some but not others. i can be prime stable. but i can not be and either way pass ibt. but yes in general i would use a different method then prime. no better way imo to test for heat output.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dorian101*
> 
> Le me stress testing:
> not a minute passed after uploading this image and two of my cores crashed
> i guess i need help figuring out what im doing wrong voltage wise.
> also can you please tell me if you think my temp's are acceptable or am i right on the limit, for this was a very short test and it jumped up pretty quickly.
> (check out rig for more details)
> 
> Thanks in advance and please tell me if you need more details on bios settings etc'.


another thing i would recommend is instead of using open hardware use Hwinfo64 you get more sensor info especially with a saberkitty which may help alot

you can probably get that oc @ ~ 4.5-4.75 with enough llc what is your llc set at ? what apm c1e c6 and cnq set to ?


----------



## dorian101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it does play ok with some but not others. i can be prime stable. but i can not be and either way pass ibt. but yes in general i would use a different method then prime. no better way imo to test for heat output.
> another thing i would recommend is instead of using open hardware use Hwinfo64 you get more sensor info especially with a saberkitty which may help alot
> 
> you can probably get that oc @ ~ 4.5-4.75 with enough llc what is your llc set at ? what apm c1e c6 and cnq set to ?


Thank you for the hwinfo tip, its great!
now for what you asked they are all disabled, cpu llc is on extreme, cpunb llc is on high, cpu/cpunb cc's are @ 130% (tbh i just went by this guide: http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard

Now i did increase the voltage to 1.452 (on full load) which seem'd to resolve the stability issue with prime although i only ran it for 15 minutes fearing an overheat.
i'm looking for new way to cool it down since i already put a fan behind the cpu socket which helped but as you can see i'm still reaching 61-62 c' on full load.
after playing BF3 on 1080p/ultra for 1 1/2 hours i can probably say it's stable (64p maps) - it only had to use 1.440v and never reached 50c'.
any other stress test's you can recommend for my rig/cooling solutions?
tnx again!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dorian101*
> 
> Thank you for the hwinfo tip, its great!
> now for what you asked they are all disabled, cpu llc is on extreme, cpunb llc is on high, cpu/cpunb cc's are @ 130% (tbh i just went by this guide: http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard
> 
> Now i did increase the voltage to 1.452 (on full load) which seem'd to resolve the stability issue with prime although i only ran it for 15 minutes fearing an overheat.
> i'm looking for new way to cool it down since i already put a fan behind the cpu socket which helped but as you can see i'm still reaching 61-62 c' on full load.
> after playing BF3 on 1080p/ultra for 1 1/2 hours i can probably say it's stable (64p maps) - it only had to use 1.440v and never reached 50c'.
> any other stress test's you can recommend for my rig/cooling solutions?
> tnx again!


heh just relized i typed 4.75 and 4.5 i ment 1.45-1.475 sorry

are you looking at socket or core temp? socket is safe to go higher then 62 it is core temp you want to worry about.

fyi your llc is making the heat. i can do 4.7 on high and 4.8 on very @ offset value of 1.45 ( when all the power saving options are disabled is is rock solid stable. with them enabled i drop a core.)

as far as cooling only thing i can say is go full custom and add more rads LOL

and stress testing just the basics occt ibt... the usual


----------



## dorian101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> heh just relized i typed 4.75 and 4.5 i ment 1.45-1.475 sorry
> 
> are you looking at socket or core temp? socket is safe to go higher then 62 it is core temp you want to worry about.
> 
> fyi your llc is making the heat. i can do 4.7 on high and 4.8 on very @ offset value of 1.45 ( when all the power saving options are disabled is is rock solid stable. with them enabled i drop a core.)
> 
> as far as cooling only thing i can say is go full custom and add more rads LOL
> 
> and stress testing just the basics occt ibt... the usual


GOD!
i just realized that i was looking at socket temp for all this time, i suck.
guess my temp's are ok and im ready for a full length test now.. i will run it right now and post later today.

when putting things on offset instead of manual mode isn't there a chance of over-volting the cpu? i know its better for idle but wont it go too high with a value of 1.45?
i have allready decided to run two separate profiles in the bios:
1. is 4.4ghz with all stock values
2. 4.8 with everything set to manual and llc's, etc' disabled.
would i really benefit from an offset mode?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dorian101*
> 
> GOD!
> i just realized that i was looking at socket temp for all this time, i suck.
> guess my temp's are ok and im ready for a full length test now.. i will run it right now and post later today.
> 
> when putting things on offset instead of manual mode isn't there a chance of over-volting the cpu? i know its better for idle but wont it go too high with a value of 1.45?
> i have allready decided to run two separate profiles in the bios:
> 1. is 4.4ghz with all stock values
> 2. 4.8 with everything set to manual and llc's, etc' disabled.
> would i really benefit from an offset mode?


i dont know everything here but
off set is mainly used for stuff like cnq, it can then down clock the core and volts to use less energy. if off set is set to 1.45 max and manual to 1.45 it will get the same voltage either way

i believe it goes off your stock vid ( shut down turbo and reboot with all stock settings ) one cool thing you can do is set your offset after reboot and it will tell you in bios what voltage you actually are running

still new myself to using offset but that is my understanding. if i am wrong feel free to correct me

as to socket temp, very easy mistake to make. everyone does it. what they say is when cpu temp <40 socket is most accurate, cpu temp >40 cpu more accurate.


----------



## tamaska

update news just found amazon usa has started selling them

http://www.amazon.com/Motherboards-Sabertooth-990FX-GEN3-R2-0/dp/B00C0RCKY0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1364696749&sr=1-1&keywords=Sabertooth+990FX%2FGEN3


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tamaska*
> 
> update news just found amazon usa has started selling them
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Motherboards-Sabertooth-990FX-GEN3-R2-0/dp/B00C0RCKY0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1364696749&sr=1-1&keywords=Sabertooth+990FX%2FGEN3


Great! At least we know when they'll start appearing. Says ships in 3-4 weeks and doesn't show any in stock. Looks like we'll be waiting a bit longer!


----------



## tamaska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Great! At least we know when they'll start appearing. Says ships in 3-4 weeks and doesn't show any in stock. Looks like we'll be waiting a bit longer!


am going to call asus up on tusday to see about it for the uk on when it gets here


----------



## Heuchler

switched out my old DDR2 790X board for my Sabertooth 990FX yesterday (on my main system).
got my DDR3-1866 this week. Nice improvement over DDR3-1333 CAS 8 that I had left over from x58 upgrade.

Seems that DDR3 memory controller heats up the CPU by 6c over DDR2 IMC on my 1045T @ 4.0GHz.
Sabertooth lets me run NB over 3000 MHz. Also did some light testing with HT at 2900 MHz. 3DMark Vantage
and Crysis 2 performance didn't drop. Will have to do more testing last on.

Very happy with my new motherboard. DDR3 was worth the upgrade. SATA-3 and USB 3.0 was a nice bonus.

Testing - x6 @ 4063MHz 1.488v (301x13.5) 3010NB, 2100HT, DDR3-1600 7-7-7-21 1T


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Great! At least we know when they'll start appearing. Says ships in 3-4 weeks and doesn't show any in stock. Looks like we'll be waiting a bit longer!


http://www.benspcs.com/mb-sb990fg.html in stock !~ never bought from them before though


----------



## tamaska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> http://www.benspcs.com/mb-sb990fg.html in stock !~ never bought from them before though


ah more in the usa i live in the uk so am still going to have to call them up to find out when its out here


----------



## headmixer

Just done a search, and they have showed up here.

http://www.acmemicro.com/Product/12216/ASUS+SABERTOOTH+990FX%2FGEN3+R2+0+Board+FX+Socket+AM3++8-Core+DDR3+SATA3+eSATA+RAID+GbE+HD-Audio+CrossFireX+SLI+PCIe+ATX+Retail?gclid=CLX8q8b0p7YCFbGPPAodTD4AqQ

I don't know these guys. "Shop Wisely" my freinds.


----------



## Walking Dude

Be nice if these boards would have onboard Wifi.

Still looking for the latest stable bios for the org. Rev. 1 boards.


----------



## headmixer

This is from the OP if you didn't see it.









http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#support_Download_30


----------



## Walking Dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *headmixer*
> 
> This is from the OP if you didn't see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#support_Download_30


Thankx

But I have read on this site, that some bios was messing with the boards. Wasn't stable. So which of these is the best to dl?


----------



## Tweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walking Dude*
> 
> Be nice if these boards would have onboard Wifi.
> 
> Still looking for the latest stable bios for the org. Rev. 1 boards.


I use this one SABERTOOTH 990FX BIOS 1604

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#support


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walking Dude*
> 
> Thankx
> 
> But I have read on this site, that some bios was messing with the boards. Wasn't stable. So which of these is the best to dl?


granted i have an r2.0 but all my bios have ran fine currently i am running newest. most of the time i see bios not being stable on memory oc. bios can kill ocs but not usually just means your pc wont be stable. not gonna kill your equipment


----------



## Walking Dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tweeky*
> 
> I use this one SABERTOOTH 990FX BIOS 1604
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#support


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> granted i have an r2.0 but all my bios have ran fine currently i am running newest. most of the time i see bios not being stable on memory oc. bios can kill ocs but not usually just means your pc wont be stable. not gonna kill your equipment


Thank you both.


----------



## headmixer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walking Dude*
> 
> Thankx
> 
> But I have read on this site, that some bios was messing with the boards. Wasn't stable. So which of these is the best to dl?


Not sure, My Saber is just a backup rig.

I put the 1604 bios on the board when I upgraded the 1090T to the FX8150.

Seemed OK when I set it up.

Don't use it much, can't comment on the stability.


----------



## tamaska

hmm ok guys looking on google have a look at this one place what has it in the uk http://www.idealo.co.uk/compare/3865070/asus-sabertooth-990fx-gen3-r2-0.html


----------



## Walking Dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *headmixer*
> 
> Not sure, My Saber is just a backup rig.
> 
> I put the 1604 bios on the board when I upgraded the 1090T to the FX8150.
> 
> Seemed OK when I set it up.
> 
> Don't use it much, can't comment on the stability.


Thankx dude


----------



## SwishaMane

What setting do you guys use for bank interleaving? Theres enabled and disabled, I dont think I've noticed any differences between on or off. I THINK i read somewhere to disable both interleaving options for inproved stability / perforamnce, but I don't recall. Just wondering, as my RAM speeds, read, write and copy, seem slow for my setup.

Rev 1.01 sabertooth, FX 8350 at 4.8ghz, 2.3ghz NB, 2600htt, and 1880 RAM (945mhz), @ 9-10-9-27-38-2t... REALLY wish i could knock that down to 1t, but its 4 dimms, 16GB 1866 Corsair Dominator Platinums.


----------



## Mega Man

umm.. i leave them on stock (auto , saberkitty r2.0 ) . i notice performance degrades on anything else.. also there is dct unganged mode.leave it enabled. there are certain things it increases performance on. however most people will see a slight decrease in performance.

cant find the link. but amd was linked in a forum about that mentioning the decrease except in specific situations.


----------



## tamaska

Asus SABERTOOTH 990FX/GEN3 R2.0

uk not going to get it anytime soon


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walking Dude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *headmixer*
> 
> This is from the OP if you didn't see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#support_Download_30
> 
> 
> 
> Thankx
> 
> But I have read on this site, that some bios was messing with the boards. Wasn't stable. So which of these is the best to dl?
Click to expand...

I've been on 1604 since it was released. No problems here. I'm running 5 ghz at the moment.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tamaska*
> 
> Asus SABERTOOTH 990FX/GEN3 R2.0
> 
> uk not going to get it anytime soon


Why do you want it?


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I've been on 1604 since it was released. No problems here. I'm running 5 ghz at the moment.
> Why do you want it?


What is the latest Bios for SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0? All I can see is 1503 and thats what I have.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I've been on 1604 since it was released. No problems here. I'm running 5 ghz at the moment.
> Why do you want it?
> 
> 
> 
> What is the latest Bios for SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0? All I can see is 1503 and thats what I have.
Click to expand...

Pretty sure that is the recent one for R2.0. R1 took forever after y'all got yours. Well... just a few days worth but it sure did seem forever.


----------



## RJFTech

New to this forum so please forgive me if this has been asked before...
I purchased my Asus sabertooth 990fx r2 about 2 weeks ago and all was fine with my old phenom II 550 that was until the other day when I installed my shiny new AMD Fx 8350 and the squeal from the south bridge started.
Am running 4 x 4gb corsair vengeance low profile ram and those settings are correct in the UEFI.
Any settings I should adjust in the UEFI as I have looked and all looks to be normal, it goes from a faint squeal to a very loud level.
Any help will be much appreciated, I fear I may have to RMA this mobo if I cant find a fix to the problem


----------



## Krusher33

Did you do a CMOS reset and update your BIOS?


----------



## RJFTech

Hello, I sure did clear the cmos. its on the latest 1503 bios. tried to contact asus online but there support site is playing up. Funny how it all started when the FX8350 was installed, have seen a youtube video with the same problem I am having but no solution


----------



## Krusher33

You did take the sticker off the southbridge right? I just wonder if it's squealing because of temps.


----------



## RJFTech

Hello, yes I took that sticker off. Just cleared the cmos again and its just the same. May have a bad board, will have to call asus in the morning.


----------



## Krusher33

Ok, well that is a bummer.


----------



## drkidd22

Hello,

I've had my M2N-32SLI for about 6 years or so now. The dam thing is still going and working great. It has seen 3 processor upgrades, ram upgrades, video card upgrades, hard drive upgrades, and it just takes it all in. Now I have to come up to with current technology, USB 3.0 DDR3 etc. So I've chosen the Sabertooth to be the main board. Since most of you guys are all familiar with the board I'll like some recomendations. I play PC games, but not that much, although I'm looking to play the new Battlefield 4 on the PC instead of the PS3. I current have a GTX 550 ti and will keep that in.

So my questions are which ram and processor do you guys recommend?
I was thinking of CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB for ram and not sure about the processor if I should keep the one I have or get another one, six core maybe. Let me know what you guys think and recomend, I want something that will last me another 6 years.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drkidd22*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I've had my M2N-32SLI for about 6 years or so now. The dam thing is still going and working great. It has seen 3 processor upgrades, ram upgrades, video card upgrades, hard drive upgrades, and it just takes it all in. Now I have to come up to with current technology, USB 3.0 DDR3 etc. So I've chosen the Sabertooth to be the main board. Since most of you guys are all familiar with the board I'll like some recomendations. I play PC games, but not that much, although I'm looking to play the new Battlefield 4 on the PC instead of the PS3. I current have a GTX 550 ti and will keep that in.
> 
> So my questions are which ram and processor do you guys recommend?
> I was thinking of CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB for ram and not sure about the processor if I should keep the one I have or get another one, six core maybe. Let me know what you guys think and recomend, I want something that will last me another 6 years.


I suggest you to drop that kind of money for a new video card or a SSD instead.


----------



## drkidd22

The thing is my current setup has two bad memory slots as well, so it'll be worth getting a new MB. I have an SSD already, my signature is not up to date.


----------



## Walking Dude

Depends on the cash you want to spend. I would suggest getting the FX-8350 and a new vid card, but def. the 8350


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJFTech*
> 
> Hello, yes I took that sticker off. Just cleared the cmos again and its just the same. May have a bad board, will have to call asus in the morning.


that sucks sorry ; ; never heard of that before. its a great board though !~


----------



## RJFTech

It sure is a great board, played with some settings and its gone quieter. Theres a setting in the uefi I need to adjust I think, just no idea what one.


----------



## Mistral

It sounds like you have high frequency noise from the coils you could try disabling the spread spectrum options in the BIOS, the spread spectrum oscillates the frequencies above and below the normal frequency , the idea is to cut down on interference, I always have them disabled it helps with stability when overclocking. Another possibility is the noise could be coming from the PSU.


----------



## hotrod717

Well, it seems as though Asus customer support has struck again. Called again last night and appearently I have to wait until my mobo is fixed and returned. 2 separate techs scewed up my rma information on 2 occasions and I'm stuck waiting for my original to be sent back. World class service at its best!


----------



## RJFTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> It sounds like you have high frequency noise from the coils you could try disabling the spread spectrum options in the BIOS, the spread spectrum oscillates the frequencies above and below the normal frequency , the idea is to cut down on interference, I always have them disabled it helps with stability when overclocking. Another possibility is the noise could be coming from the PSU.


Tried this just now and its squealing away as per normal, its getting returned in the morning.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJFTech*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> It sounds like you have high frequency noise from the coils you could try disabling the spread spectrum options in the BIOS, the spread spectrum oscillates the frequencies above and below the normal frequency , the idea is to cut down on interference, I always have them disabled it helps with stability when overclocking. Another possibility is the noise could be coming from the PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> Tried this just now and its squealing away as per normal, its getting returned in the morning.
Click to expand...

Did you take this back yet? If so did replacing it help? Coil whine is very tricky and can be from the a combination of things. Swapping out one single part can create or stop the coil whine. Also not everyone is sensitive to coil whine since we all have different limits to how high of a frequency we can hear. For example there was a phone once (lg voyager) that lots of women where bringing in and saying they could hear a high pitch squeal. I was the only guy at work that could hear it. That is because women hear a little bit higher frequency than men and are less likely to have been exposed to ear damaging sounds. The squeal was coming from the CFL on the inside and was only present when the backlight was on and the phone was open to the inside since the external screen did not use the same backlight.

One thing to keep in mind though is to my knowledge that board has a 2-phase VRM supply to the memory with a bunch of capacitors and that is really not enough juice for 4 dimms of ram to be run full out on. That is why the manual says something along the lines of not OCing the ram if you have 4 dimms. I doubt this is the source of your coil whine but replacing the CPU most likely meant that your ram now runs at a higher speed and could be downing some more juice.

One thing you can try is to adjust the switching speed of the VRMs. I don't know if this controls all VRMs or just the CPU ones but change it to any other frequency then what you are currently running it at. So maybe manual of 500 or 600. You could also try enabling spread spectrum on the VRMs. This is not the same as spread spectrum on the CPU and this feature is known to stabilize OCs not make them worse.

If swapping the board is an option that doesn't result in the loss of cash then go for it as just changing it will likely cause just a small enough difference to get rid of the issue. If the issue persists you may not have pointed at the right device as far as what was making the noise. High frequencies are hard to pin down and can echo off of walls and actually sound if they are coming from a completely different place. So like someone else said it could be your PSU. Also I had a PSU that caused whine on a Rampage III Extreme but when that PSU was put with a different motherboard and a different PSU with the Rampage none of them whined. I can also hear the whine from my nixeus occasionally and sometimes there is a whine that comes from inside the computer when I move my mouse. I can also hear a whine from the computer when the capacitors on my 2CH separate amp charges up (2 caps the size of oil filters).

It just sucks if you can hear those frequencies... I guess you could always go cut some aluminum siding with a skill saw and no earplugs and the problem will probably go away LOL. Neither my dad or uncle can hear any high frequencies. My dad is completely oblivious to the mosquito ringer and my brother says none of his teachers can hear it either so just goes to show how much luck, age, gender, and occupation play into hearing coil whine.


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> That is because women hear a little bit higher frequency than men and are less likely to have been exposed to ear damaging sounds.


This is true in that response to the frequency is relative to the size of the aural canal. Women generally have smaller ear canals, and that gives better high frequency response, and men with larger aural canals hear bass (low frequency) better and why men like more bass in music than women do. This carries on in radio frequency response as well, thus length of the antenna is relative to the frequency response it has, longer antennae pick up low frequency better, shorter antennae pick up higher frequency better.

Back to your regularly scheduled thread....


----------



## Fishinfan

I am thinking about upgrading my current motherboard to a sabertooth. What's the highest speed memory I can run on this board? I saw 1866 mhz on the asus and newegg site. So I thought i'd ask.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fishinfan*
> 
> I am thinking about upgrading my current motherboard to a sabertooth. What's the highest speed memory I can run on this board? I saw 1866 mhz on the asus and newegg site. So I thought i'd ask.


your right but in the r2.0 instructions it has 2400 memory on the qvl list, and mine does run 2400. however 99% of vishara can run 2133 a much smaller percentage can run 2400

meaning it mostly depends on your cpu and how lucky you are


----------



## Fishinfan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> your right but in the r2.0 instructions it has 2400 memory on the qvl list, and mine does run 2400. however 99% of vishara can run 2133 a much smaller percentage can run 2400
> 
> meaning it mostly depends on your cpu and how lucky you are


I am planning on buying a fx-8350 also.


----------



## hucklebuck

Anyone here have a fan on the back of the CPU socket to help cool it off. If so what size do you use, and has it helped?

I've got a small chipset fan on mine and it helps. Was thinking of putting a bigger fan there.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Anyone here have a fan on the back of the CPU socket to help cool it off. If so what size do you use, and has it helped?
> 
> I've got a small chipset fan on mine and it helps. Was thinking of putting a bigger fan there.


i was but now i am just going to build some custom water blocks 1 for vrm front and back and 1 for CPU backplate


----------



## Fishinfan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> your right but in the r2.0 instructions it has 2400 memory on the qvl list, and mine does run 2400. however 99% of vishara can run 2133 a much smaller percentage can run 2400
> 
> meaning it mostly depends on your cpu and how lucky you are


If I get a fx-8350 would that mean I could 2133 or 2400 mhz also?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fishinfan*
> 
> If I get a fx-8350 would that mean I could 2133 or 2400 mhz also?


should. however it just depends on if you get the one percent that cant. again that is because of your cpu not your motherboard.


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i was but now i am just going to build some custom water blocks 1 for vrm front and back and 1 for CPU backplate


So you are gonna custom make your own blocks? If so, let me know how you do it. We have the same MB. I did post somewhere asking if anyone knew who sold waterblocks for the VRM's for the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 but got no response. I'm pretty handy with tools.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i was but now i am just going to build some custom water blocks 1 for vrm front and back and 1 for CPU backplate
> 
> 
> 
> So you are gonna custom make your own blocks? If so, let me know how you do it. We have the same MB. I did post somewhere asking if anyone knew who sold waterblocks for the VRM's for the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 but got no response. I'm pretty handy with tools.
Click to expand...

There's only universal ones so far.


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> There's only universal ones so far.


What do you mean "universal" ones so far? What do they cover? Where can I see / get one? Are they any good?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> There's only universal ones so far.
> 
> 
> 
> What do you mean "universal" ones so far? What do they cover? Where can I see / get one? Are they any good?
Click to expand...

Here ya go:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *utnorris*
> 
> Ok, so after seeing MrG and what he did, I went ahead and water cooled my NB and VRM's. Here is the part list:
> 
> Koolance CHC-125 - Requires no mod, but you do remove one of the retaining arms so spacing is correct.
> 
> http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=0_29_66&product_id=663
> 
> Koolance MVR-100
> 
> http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=0_29_66&product_id=736
> 
> Koolance MVR-PLT140 - You do have to drill holes in the plate so it lines up with the stock back plate, but then you use the stock back plate and screws to mount it.
> 
> http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=0_29_108&product_id=737
> 
> Temps are consistent across the VRM's and NB, sitting at 37c. So not too bad. Under stress test they move up to 42c and only vary by a degree or two between the hottest and coolest part Vcore 1, Vcore 2 and NB HT temps. Keep in mind this was only for 5 minutes, didn't feel like sitting around waiting on it.
> 
> I will take some later and post them.


And his pics:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *utnorris*
> 
> Had to use my phone for the pics, but hopefully you can see how I did it.
> 
> PICS:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Decided to water cool my PERC 5i RAID card:
> 
> 
> 
> Overkill? Yes. Do I care? No.


As for any good or not, I don't know. It eliminates the need of a fan over the VRM's but probably will get about the same temps?


----------



## hucklebuck

Thanks!


----------



## hucklebuck

What kind of pump would run all that?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> So you are gonna custom make your own blocks? If so, let me know how you do it. We have the same MB. I did post somewhere asking if anyone knew who sold waterblocks for the VRM's for the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 but got no response. I'm pretty handy with tools.


i dont care for koolance so i try not to use them as much as i can. personal preference.

here is my idea. expect the 2 main entries i would either tap off the other entries on the water block and use a g1/4 cap on them to clean them if ever necessary or you can solder them shut. then i want to use 3/8 in id soft copper ( 1/2 od ) and braise ( with silver solder ) it in to the main entrances
on the back and front for the vrms i found a website that sells flat stock ( to .03"or so idr ) i was going to use as a heat transfer plate. on the front i was going to use a 2 slot ram heat sink for looks

all holes are 1/2 drill and the copper is all from the same place ill get on later and look it up for you 

the cpu block would fit inside the raised edges on the cpu mount . and i was thinking about heat tape as you dont want to short anything. gonna have to find long screws for the cpu block to make a mount to hold it in place. the vrms i was just going to machine as needed

as for the pump i will be running the dual swiftech pump when i do this but i also have the apogee hd so i will have a mixed setup using all 3 outlets of the block 1 to vrms 1 to gpus and 1 to ram ( just for looks, guy on ocn is manufacturing a water block for the gskill trident x it looks awesome !~ )


----------



## Krusher33

I need pics cause that just went over my head.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I need pics cause that just went over my head.


you know the

http://koolance.com/mvr-heat-transfer-plate-140mm

you have to place it on the vrms. and use the vrm water block

i will be placing one on the vrms in between the ram cooler on the front of the board. made of solid copper and crill screw holes ( and tap them ) and screwing this to it

on the back i will do the same thing except using my custom block ( the short rectangle with single pass going straight through it ) the big one with the "u" shape pass will go on the cpu back plate


i will extend the screws going through my water block and use them to make a mount(red lines ) . the block ( yellow square ) will go in between the ridges you see in the pick. however it will be square with the ridges and using thermal tape as the TIM so i dont short out anything does that make since. the pics in the above posts were just holes i would drill


does that help??
i got the water block design off of ocn( i think ) along time ago it is one of the cheapest ways to make a water block you drill holes into solid copper and cap the extra holes that were only there to make channels ( back when you had to make your own water blocks )


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Anyone here have a fan on the back of the CPU socket to help cool it off. If so what size do you use, and has it helped?
> 
> I've got a small chipset fan on mine and it helps. Was thinking of putting a bigger fan there.


http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=704735&highlight=sabertooth

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=720295&highlight=sabertooth

Take a look at both threads.

Take the findings however you feel to take them but in my "OPINION" and as I feel the data I recorded suggests that fan cooling the VRM sinks and the back of the motherboard make a measurable difference that extends to the temperature of the CPU itself regardless of air or water cooling.

I did not find that cooling the back or vrm sinks helped the Z68/Z77 boards at all even on a decent OC. I would guess that is because of the intel being more efficient.

If you cool the sinks like I did you can probably turn up the frequency of your VRMs without much of a problem heat wise.

I tried the Intel with the VRM frequency pegged and the all the VRM settings on extreme and current not thermal and still the fans made no difference in CPU temp and I couldn't measure the VRM temp because it doesn't have the same monitoring that the sabertooth has. However touching the sinks with my fingers they are barely warm.

As for the Sabertooth 990FX the more current your CPU draws and the higher the VRM temps you are getting the more these fans will make a difference.

Use 40-60mm for the top sinks and 80-120 on the back side. Personally I prefer 80 on the back and off to the side between the VRM heat sink bottom plate and the cpu socket.

Not sure where the majority of the cooling comes from... It could be that you are cooling the socket or it could be that you are cooling the VRM bracket which gets extremely hot.



The single small fan was enough but I tried dual small fans and dual 80mm 4000RPM fans and honestly I felt the single small fan was plenty with a 80 on the back side.

The way I did the Intel... you can do this with the 990FX as well


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I need pics cause that just went over my head.
> 
> 
> 
> you know the
> 
> http://koolance.com/mvr-heat-transfer-plate-140mm
> 
> you have to place it on the vrms. and use the vrm water block
> 
> i will be placing one on the vrms in between the ram cooler on the front of the board. made of solid copper and crill screw holes ( and tap them ) and screwing this to it
> 
> on the back i will do the same thing except using my custom block ( the short rectangle with single pass going straight through it ) the big one with the "u" shape pass will go on the cpu back plate
> 
> 
> i will extend the screws going through my water block and use them to make a mount(red lines ) . the block ( yellow square ) will go in between the ridges you see in the pick. however it will be square with the ridges and using thermal tape as the TIM so i dont short out anything does that make since. the pics in the above posts were just holes i would drill
> 
> 
> does that help??
> i got the water block design off of ocn( i think ) along time ago it is one of the cheapest ways to make a water block you drill holes into solid copper and cap the extra holes that were only there to make channels ( back when you had to make your own water blocks )
Click to expand...

Yeah that made a little more sense to me.

And I remember that thread about making their own waterblock. That was interesting.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Anyone here have a fan on the back of the CPU socket to help cool it off. If so what size do you use, and has it helped?
> 
> I've got a small chipset fan on mine and it helps. Was thinking of putting a bigger fan there.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=704735&highlight=sabertooth
> 
> http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=720295&highlight=sabertooth
> 
> Take a look at both threads.
> 
> Take the findings however you feel to take them but in my "OPINION" and as I feel the data I recorded suggests that fan cooling the VRM sinks and the back of the motherboard make a measurable difference that extends to the temperature of the CPU itself regardless of air or water cooling.
> 
> I did not find that cooling the back or vrm sinks helped the Z68/Z77 boards at all even on a decent OC. I would guess that is because of the intel being more efficient.
> 
> If you cool the sinks like I did you can probably turn up the frequency of your VRMs without much of a problem heat wise.
> 
> I tried the Intel with the VRM frequency pegged and the all the VRM settings on extreme and current not thermal and still the fans made no difference in CPU temp and I couldn't measure the VRM temp because it doesn't have the same monitoring that the sabertooth has. However touching the sinks with my fingers they are barely warm.
> 
> As for the Sabertooth 990FX the more current your CPU draws and the higher the VRM temps you are getting the more these fans will make a difference.
> 
> Use 40-60mm for the top sinks and 80-120 on the back side. Personally I prefer 80 on the back and off to the side between the VRM heat sink bottom plate and the cpu socket.
> 
> Not sure where the majority of the cooling comes from... It could be that you are cooling the socket or it could be that you are cooling the VRM bracket which gets extremely hot.
> 
> 
> 
> The single small fan was enough but I tried dual small fans and dual 80mm 4000RPM fans and honestly I felt the single small fan was plenty with a 80 on the back side.
> 
> The way I did the Intel... you can do this with the 990FX as well
Click to expand...

Ugly pictures but here's what I did with mine. Without this fan above the area, I noticed the heatsink of NOT just the VRM's but also the one in between the PCI slots and CPU was VERY warm. I made this mount by taking a sheet metal, cut out hole for fan, and bent it. With this fan blowing over both the VRM and that NB heatsink (or whatever that is), the overall temperatures have dropped immensely. The just need more airflow over the heatsinks.


----------



## hotrod717

Good news, Newegg has the R2/Gen3 for $199.99.


----------



## lilkuz2005

hey guys, its been a while since the last time i was on the forums, i have been doing some upgrades to my rig, and decided that i should update the bios before my new vapor-x 7970 ghz edition gets here, i just added a 250gb samsung 840 ssd, and a seagate 2tb hdd, just waiting on the new gpu now, for those of you who dont know me, im the guy that has been modding the sabertooth 990fx BIOS files to add SLIC 2.1 tables so you can activate windows 7 OEM editions, well i have a fresh new bios file modded and ready to flash, the last one i did was 0813 i think, this is the latest bios from ASUS v1604, let me know if you guys need any older bios updates modded, i can do it, here is a link to the new bios, and i have also upped a photo so you can see that it does have a slic 2.1 table [/URL]


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Ugly pictures but here's what I did with mine. Without this fan above the area, I noticed the heatsink of NOT just the VRM's but also the one in between the PCI slots and CPU was VERY warm. I made this mount by taking a sheet metal, cut out hole for fan, and bent it. With this fan blowing over both the VRM and that NB heatsink (or whatever that is), the overall temperatures have dropped immensely. The just need more airflow over the heatsinks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice job making that fan mount. I did not notice a cooling difference when adding active cooling to the smaller heat sink area when it was done in addition to the 2 40MM fans. There may be 2 reasons for this... reason 1: and the less likely reason is that a heat pipe connects the 2 heat sinks together. Reason 2: I was probably not utilizing whatever is under that heat sink. I do not believe it is a north bridge (I thought that was in the proc) but I think it is the VRMs for something else like the memory and my memory was not overvolted yours may be...
> 
> I am not certain in any way though... Again just adding the 2nd 40mm fan was such a minimal difference that I used just 1. I do truly believe that having a smaller fan with a higher PSI key words in what PSI stands for is per and inch being that it is my belief that my 40MM fan right above the heat sink is providing better cooling to the sink than your 120mm fan is but I could be incorrect about that. Later I found that just using the tiny little ROG fan on a RIIIE VRM sink made a noticeable difference and that fan is even smaller.
> 
> I could def see a combination of a 120 like the way you did it and 2 smaller fans making a noticeable difference.
> 
> Did you do any data recording? Did it make a difference in your CPU and VRM temps? Which VRM temp did it affect more? Which VRM temp shows to be higher on your board normally?
> 
> I def think that this is a board that needs active cooling on the sinks if there is extreme overclocking going on. Someone else (The guy who tears down PSUs on overlockers.com) lent another theory behind why the intel Z68/Z77 boards run so cool besides just the TDP being lower. The second thread I posted has his opinion on the matter.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## Krusher33

I'm too lazy to record data.









What I do know that it did drop the temps and suddenly I was able to OC easier.

The 2 80mm fans was actually for the GPU as I'm using a universal block with heatsinks on the VRM and memory.


----------



## Mistral

I do not believe it is a north bridge (I thought that was in the proc)

The NB is not in the CPU it's under the heatsink between the first PCIe slot and the CPU socket.


----------



## RJFTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Did you take this back yet? If so did replacing it help? Coil whine is very tricky and can be from the a combination of things. Swapping out one single part can create or stop the coil whine. Also not everyone is sensitive to coil whine since we all have different limits to how high of a frequency we can hear. For example there was a phone once (lg voyager) that lots of women where bringing in and saying they could hear a high pitch squeal. I was the only guy at work that could hear it. That is because women hear a little bit higher frequency than men and are less likely to have been exposed to ear damaging sounds. The squeal was coming from the CFL on the inside and was only present when the backlight was on and the phone was open to the inside since the external screen did not use the same backlight.
> 
> One thing to keep in mind though is to my knowledge that board has a 2-phase VRM supply to the memory with a bunch of capacitors and that is really not enough juice for 4 dimms of ram to be run full out on. That is why the manual says something along the lines of not OCing the ram if you have 4 dimms. I doubt this is the source of your coil whine but replacing the CPU most likely meant that your ram now runs at a higher speed and could be downing some more juice.
> 
> One thing you can try is to adjust the switching speed of the VRMs. I don't know if this controls all VRMs or just the CPU ones but change it to any other frequency then what you are currently running it at. So maybe manual of 500 or 600. You could also try enabling spread spectrum on the VRMs. This is not the same as spread spectrum on the CPU and this feature is known to stabilize OCs not make them worse.
> 
> If swapping the board is an option that doesn't result in the loss of cash then go for it as just changing it will likely cause just a small enough difference to get rid of the issue. If the issue persists you may not have pointed at the right device as far as what was making the noise. High frequencies are hard to pin down and can echo off of walls and actually sound if they are coming from a completely different place. So like someone else said it could be your PSU. Also I had a PSU that caused whine on a Rampage III Extreme but when that PSU was put with a different motherboard and a different PSU with the Rampage none of them whined. I can also hear the whine from my nixeus occasionally and sometimes there is a whine that comes from inside the computer when I move my mouse. I can also hear a whine from the computer when the capacitors on my 2CH separate amp charges up (2 caps the size of oil filters).
> 
> It just sucks if you can hear those frequencies... I guess you could always go cut some aluminum siding with a skill saw and no earplugs and the problem will probably go away LOL. Neither my dad or uncle can hear any high frequencies. My dad is completely oblivious to the mosquito ringer and my brother says none of his teachers can hear it either so just goes to show how much luck, age, gender, and occupation play into hearing coil whine.


Well my squeal was in fact the old psu, spent out on a seasonic 850w that solved the problem. New problem is the boot led on the motherboard is staying on when the pc first gets switched on in the morning, all fine on second attempt and no further problems. Have re flashed bios checked connections, checked boot order. wont now now if it has helped until the morning when the pc has been off all night.


----------



## hotrod717

Nobody get the Gen3 yet?


----------



## lastguytom

i order a gen 3.0 for a friend he will get it around weds


----------



## riscorpian

I bought it on Thursday via Newegg. It won't arrive until Monday though. :/

In similar news, the FX 8350 I bought on Amazon at the same time arrived today. I will thoroughly enjoy staring at it until the board arrives. I can also take pictures of it and share them if anyone else wants to stare at it with me.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJFTech*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Did you take this back yet? If so did replacing it help? Coil whine is very tricky and can be from the a combination of things. Swapping out one single part can create or stop the coil whine. Also not everyone is sensitive to coil whine since we all have different limits to how high of a frequency we can hear. For example there was a phone once (lg voyager) that lots of women where bringing in and saying they could hear a high pitch squeal. I was the only guy at work that could hear it. That is because women hear a little bit higher frequency than men and are less likely to have been exposed to ear damaging sounds. The squeal was coming from the CFL on the inside and was only present when the backlight was on and the phone was open to the inside since the external screen did not use the same backlight.
> 
> One thing to keep in mind though is to my knowledge that board has a 2-phase VRM supply to the memory with a bunch of capacitors and that is really not enough juice for 4 dimms of ram to be run full out on. That is why the manual says something along the lines of not OCing the ram if you have 4 dimms. I doubt this is the source of your coil whine but replacing the CPU most likely meant that your ram now runs at a higher speed and could be downing some more juice.
> 
> One thing you can try is to adjust the switching speed of the VRMs. I don't know if this controls all VRMs or just the CPU ones but change it to any other frequency then what you are currently running it at. So maybe manual of 500 or 600. You could also try enabling spread spectrum on the VRMs. This is not the same as spread spectrum on the CPU and this feature is known to stabilize OCs not make them worse.
> 
> If swapping the board is an option that doesn't result in the loss of cash then go for it as just changing it will likely cause just a small enough difference to get rid of the issue. If the issue persists you may not have pointed at the right device as far as what was making the noise. High frequencies are hard to pin down and can echo off of walls and actually sound if they are coming from a completely different place. So like someone else said it could be your PSU. Also I had a PSU that caused whine on a Rampage III Extreme but when that PSU was put with a different motherboard and a different PSU with the Rampage none of them whined. I can also hear the whine from my nixeus occasionally and sometimes there is a whine that comes from inside the computer when I move my mouse. I can also hear a whine from the computer when the capacitors on my 2CH separate amp charges up (2 caps the size of oil filters).
> 
> It just sucks if you can hear those frequencies... I guess you could always go cut some aluminum siding with a skill saw and no earplugs and the problem will probably go away LOL. Neither my dad or uncle can hear any high frequencies. My dad is completely oblivious to the mosquito ringer and my brother says none of his teachers can hear it either so just goes to show how much luck, age, gender, and occupation play into hearing coil whine.
> 
> 
> 
> Well my squeal was in fact the old psu, spent out on a seasonic 850w that solved the problem. New problem is the boot led on the motherboard is staying on when the pc first gets switched on in the morning, all fine on second attempt and no further problems. Have re flashed bios checked connections, checked boot order. wont now now if it has helped until the morning when the pc has been off all night.
Click to expand...

Boot LED? I don't have my board anymore but I want to say that is a power LED as in there is power going to the board. So you know the PSU is on. Also because of capacitors that light could potentially stay on for a very long time after the PSU is switched off.

I could be very very wrong as I sold this board but I don't think you have anything to worry about. The green lights above the PCIe power cables on my video card stay lit all the time even when the pc is shut down. Strange but hey what ev the house isn't going to catch on fire because of it.

Also coil whine isn't really a sign of failure. It could be caused by something failing or being out of spec but at the same time it could just be a quirk. So you could probably re-use that old PSU in some other machine that isn't your primary machine or give it to someone else. Don't toss it but at the same time don't sell it without first warning that it could whine.


----------



## RJFTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Boot LED? I don't have my board anymore but I want to say that is a power LED as in there is power going to the board. So you know the PSU is on. Also because of capacitors that light could potentially stay on for a very long time after the PSU is switched off.
> 
> I could be very very wrong as I sold this board but I don't think you have anything to worry about. The green lights above the PCIe power cables on my video card stay lit all the time even when the pc is shut down. Strange but hey what ev the house isn't going to catch on fire because of it.
> 
> Also coil whine isn't really a sign of failure. It could be caused by something failing or being out of spec but at the same time it could just be a quirk. So you could probably re-use that old PSU in some other machine that isn't your primary machine or give it to someone else. Don't toss it but at the same time don't sell it without first warning that it could whine.


The old psu started dieing when I put the new graphics card in the other day, made some right weird noises. I see the green power led, have to keep my eye on the boot led problem and see if refreshing the bios and settings its has been resolved in the morning. Any tips for a performance cooler for the fx 8350 as the arctic a30 cooler is really making a lot of noise when gaming, don't fancy going with water cooling after I have seen what happens when it leaks.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJFTech*
> 
> Well my squeal was in fact the old psu, spent out on a seasonic 850w that solved the problem. New problem is the boot led on the motherboard is staying on when the pc first gets switched on in the morning, all fine on second attempt and no further problems. Have re flashed bios checked connections, checked boot order. wont now now if it has helped until the morning when the pc has been off all night.


sounds like your pc isnt a mourning pc..... kidding kidding seriously though not normal
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Nobody get the Gen3 yet?


my finger in on the trigger just waiting to be pulled. but i want to see if next shipment of mobos microcenter gets them in
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJFTech*
> 
> The old psu started dieing when I put the new graphics card in the other day, made some right weird noises. I see the green power led, have to keep my eye on the boot led problem and see if refreshing the bios and settings its has been resolved in the morning. Any tips for a performance cooler for the fx 8350 as the arctic a30 cooler is really making a lot of noise when gaming, don't fancy going with water cooling after I have seen what happens when it leaks.


go full custom loop and then you will have no leaks!~

if you want a serious oc with as little noise as possible either phantek *spelling* or noctura d14 up to you ... real silence is in cull custom loops if you can find a h220 (it is a full kit ) they are awesome value for the price. and honestly most loops dont leak, it is actually pretty rare

~ with regular maint. change out coolant ( esp if using colored coolant ), clean out blocks if needed, and change o rings every 12-36 months .


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> have not seen this on the site, if it exists sorry ..and o well heres another thread
> 
> my favorite case mod i did VERY simple and cheap (~$5-$10)
> 
> adding another momentary switch to the outside of my case
> 
> 
> got a 2 pin led for the front panel header and cut off the led. and attached it to the momentary switch
> 
> and installed it on the header
> 
> 
> very simple and i dont have to get into the case when i am ocing and it wont boot.
> 
> hope this saves you some time


figured i would post this here too. someone once told me they never thought of it, figured i would make a quick write up !~ it has made ocing so easy i never open my case ~ ( back of my case is an easy reach for me as my case is on top of my desk )


----------



## RJFTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sounds like your pc isnt a mourning pc..... kidding kidding seriously though not normal
> my finger in on the trigger just waiting to be pulled. but i want to see if next shipment of mobos microcenter gets them in
> go full custom loop and then you will have no leaks!~
> 
> if you want a serious oc with as little noise as possible either phantek *spelling* or noctura d14 up to you ... real silence is in cull custom loops if you can find a h220 (it is a full kit ) they are awesome value for the price. and honestly most loops dont leak, it is actually pretty rare
> 
> ~ with regular maint. change out coolant ( esp if using colored coolant ), clean out blocks if needed, and change o rings every 12-36 months .


The noctua d14 looks to be the one I would go for or may be the bequiet silent rock pro 2, ref pc not being a morning pc is true if its off overnight in a cold room. Its gone to doing the red gpu led and wont boot fully until I restart the pc a second time. Do these motherboards have some kind of moisture prevention on them as it looks to me it wont let itself fully boot until it has warmed up from a cold night alone


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJFTech*
> 
> The noctua d14 looks to be the one I would go for or may be the bequiet silent rock pro 2, ref pc not being a morning pc is true if its off overnight in a cold room. Its gone to doing the red gpu led and wont boot fully until I restart the pc a second time. Do these motherboards have some kind of moisture prevention on them as it looks to me it wont let itself fully boot until it has warmed up from a cold night alone


not that i know of sorry ; ;


----------



## hotrod717

Finally got my Mobo back from RMA and as far as I can tell, everything is working beautifully again. I do plan on getting the Gen3 though. Several nice upgrade features over my rev.1. I also like the new look of the heatsinks. Should have it ordered by Friday!


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilkuz2005*
> 
> hey guys, its been a while since the last time i was on the forums, i have been doing some upgrades to my rig, and decided that i should update the bios before my new vapor-x 7970 ghz edition gets here, i just added a 250gb samsung 840 ssd, and a seagate 2tb hdd, just waiting on the new gpu now, for those of you who dont know me, im the guy that has been modding the sabertooth 990fx BIOS files to add SLIC 2.1 tables so you can activate windows 7 OEM editions, well i have a fresh new bios file modded and ready to flash, the last one i did was 0813 i think, this is the latest bios from ASUS v1604, let me know if you guys need any older bios updates modded, i can do it, here is a link to the new bios, and i have also upped a photo so you can see that it does have a slic 2.1 table [/URL]


Can you do a SLIC 2.1 Bio mod for ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 BIOS 1503?


----------



## dsmwookie

Ordered my motherboard Saturday; picked up a Gen 3 Sabertooth. Going to pair it with an 8320 for the wife's rig.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Ordered my motherboard Saturday; picked up a Gen 3 Sabertooth. Going to pair it with an 8320 for the wife's rig.


----------



## lilkuz2005

sorry about the double post, cant delete the first one


----------



## lilkuz2005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Can you do a SLIC 2.1 Bio mod for ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 BIOS 1503?


i can, but to be 100% honest with you, i have no way to test it as my mobo is the first gen model, i dont mind modding the bios for you but you will have to go out on a limb and try it your self, the board does have a 5 year warranty so i shouldn't matter lol


----------



## dsmwookie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> welcome tell us how it is debating about gen 3 now or after i get paid <,<


No sweat. Should have it up this week or next. Still need to snag a processor and RAM.

P.S. not sure why your quote wasn't showing up.


----------



## riscorpian

Santa Clau-I mean the UPS guy just delivered my Gen3. I already have the CPU and a few extra fans for my H100 radiator. I'll install all of it later today and post whatever info I can about it. I haven't looked through the BIOS section of the manual yet, but I'm really hoping there's an easy way to switch between PCIe 2 and 3. I'd really like to test the performance difference between the two. It's to my understanding that applications utilizing tech like DirectCompute and OpenCL are the ones that benefit the most from the new gen, right? I was thinking of running some benchmarks on Tomb Raider (which is pretty heavy on DirectCompute-based tech) for starters. Anyone got some other stuff I should test?

(I have dual 7970s and an FX-8350, if that factors in at all)


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riscorpian*
> 
> Santa Clau-I mean the UPS guy just delivered my Gen3. I already have the CPU and a few extra fans for my H100 radiator. I'll install all of it later today and post whatever info I can about it. I haven't looked through the BIOS section of the manual yet, but I'm really hoping there's an easy way to switch between PCIe 2 and 3. I'd really like to test the performance difference between the two. It's to my understanding that applications utilizing tech like DirectCompute and OpenCL are the ones that benefit the most from the new gen, right? I was thinking of running some benchmarks on Tomb Raider (which is pretty heavy on DirectCompute-based tech) for starters. Anyone got some other stuff I should test?
> 
> (I have dual 7970s and an FX-8350, if that factors in at all)


my predictions..... good numbers will only show in benchmarks... so dont get dissapointed if performance in games is the same.. and your hardware IS a factor... remember that FX-8350 does not support natively PCI-E 3.0....


----------



## riscorpian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> my predictions..... good numbers will only show in benchmarks... so dont get dissapointed if performance in games is the same.. and your hardware IS a factor... remember that FX-8350 does not support natively PCI-E 3.0....


The numbers are what I want to see, and that's the exact reason why. This is a platform that isn't supposed to be able to to do PCIe3 at all, yet it claims to support it. I sincerely doubt that will have a major effect on normal in-game performance, and I knew that going into this purchase. I've seen plenty of tests done that show very minor/negligible differences between 2 and 3, and even those only really show at ridiculously high resolutions. I just want to see what happens when it's run on an AMD platform. And even if the difference turns out to be close to nothing, I still got a very nice motherboard out of it, paid for with the government's money (I used part of my tax refund to fund this upgrade). The way I see it, I'll win no matter what results I get. I'm just curious to see what those results actually are.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> my predictions..... good numbers will only show in benchmarks... so dont get dissapointed if performance in games is the same.. and your hardware IS a factor... remember that FX-8350 does not support natively PCI-E 3.0....


i have to disagree. dont forget trifire or quad fire may actually increase a bit although the cpu does not natively support it now they can utilize full pcie 3.0 band width to communicate back and forth


----------



## riscorpian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i have to disagree. dont forget trifire or quad fire may actually increase a bit although the cpu does not natively support it now they can utilize full pcie 3.0 band width to communicate back and forth


That's another thing I wanted to test. I have two 7970's of my own, and I do know someone who might be willing to lend me his 7970 for testing purposes. It's also to my understanding that the support of the CPU isn't as important at higher resolutions because they're far more GPU-bound at that point. So just how much of an impact would that have at say 1920x1080 vs. 1680x1050? I'll admit that my knowledge in this field is a bit limited, so I'm really not sure what to expect from this. I'm just going by the collective info I've read off of various tech forums and articles without a comment section filled with people bashing the article for being so bad (I've seen far too many of those >.<).


----------



## shampoo911

i indeed want to see BIG NUMBERS with that pci-e 3.0...


----------



## Heuchler

Sound question - any way to enable audio reassignment for rear ports?

I Can't enable both rear audio ports for speaker and headphone use.
When swapping my Gigabyte 790X setup to my Sabertooth 990FX Windows
worked with the installed Realtek HD Audio driver. Realtek still had the Gigabyte
logo and full functions like assigning rear ports to either input (line-in) or output.

Redid my OS, new firmware for SSD, secure earse and set SSD to SATA 6GB/s speed.
The Asus Realtek drivers don't seem to allow reassignment of the rear ports.
Detects the Asus motherboard and doesn't use the standard Realtek audio mixer interface.

Does anybody know how to reassign the rear audio ports with asus realtek mixer
or get the generic Realtek audio mixer back?

Tried both audio drivers downloads from Asus.com Sabertooth section.
Realtek official HD Audio R2.70 and drivers that got release today R2.71.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heuchler*
> 
> Sound question - any way to enable audio reassignment for rear ports?
> 
> I Can't enable both rear audio ports for speaker and headphone use.
> When swapping my Gigabyte 790X setup to my Sabertooth 990FX Windows
> worked with the installed Realtek HD Audio driver. Realtek still had the Gigabyte
> logo and full functions like assigning rear ports to either input (line-in) or output.
> 
> Redid my OS, new firmware for SSD, secure earse and set SSD to SATA 6GB/s speed.
> The Asus Realtek drivers don't seem to allow reassignment of the rear ports.
> Detects the Asus motherboard and doesn't use the standard Realtek audio mixer interface.
> 
> Does anybody know how to reassign the rear audio ports with asus realtek mixer
> or get the generic Realtek audio mixer back?
> 
> Tried both audio drivers downloads from Asus.com Sabertooth section.
> Realtek official HD Audio R2.70 and drivers that got release today R2.71.


pretty sure i can ill check back in a min to verify i need to reboot i killed that process for my benching


----------



## riscorpian

All right, the Gen3 has been installed and all appears to be working well. CCC, Trixx, and GPU-Z are all reporting that both of my cards are on PCIe 3.0 x16. I'll run some benchmarks and the likes once I get a decent overclock on everything.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riscorpian*
> 
> All right, the Gen3 has been installed and all appears to be working well. CCC, Trixx, and GPU-Z are all reporting that both of my cards are on PCIe 3.0 x16. I'll run some benchmarks and the likes once I get a decent overclock on everything.


nice congrats.... still got my finger on the trigger if i will buy this tonight or not ....


----------



## dsmwookie

Is the BIOS setup in the Sabertooth and Crosshair similar? Just curious as I ve heard good things about Asus' BIOS layouts.


----------



## arcticchill360

Ok well i just got my new sabertooth gen 3 installed but i noticed something a little odd that my crosshair v didnt do, upon windows boot up ( when u see the in logo) the onboard fan controller shuts off the rapidly turns back on?!?! it hapens in the exact same spot and only upon win boot?!?any 1 else have this board w/ same issue?


----------



## tamaska

i would love hear the review as well


----------



## tamaska

am sure the overclock of all the bits will be great


----------



## DeviloftheHell

does anyone get random temp warnings during high stress application like vcore 96centigrade pcie 96 centingrade etc? otherwise reports everything just fine


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviloftheHell*
> 
> does anyone get random temp warnings during high stress application like vcore 96centigrade pcie 96 centingrade etc? otherwise reports everything just fine


using what?


----------



## AstritaSadiablo

I just upgraded to a xfx 7850 all scores are maxed in windows but cpu and ram... hmm i know what my next purchase is... fx 8350!!!

winexpindx.jpg 123k .jpg file


http://valid.canardpc.com/2763816


----------



## AstritaSadiablo

Anyone running the fx 8350 on their sabertooth?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstritaSadiablo*
> 
> Anyone running the fx 8350 on their sabertooth?


i am saberkitty 2.0

also which windows ? 7 or 8

max you can get in 7 is 7.8 to my knowledge only can get 7.9 with hyper threading

win 7 @ 4.8ghz cpu is 7.8

win 8 is like ~8.1


----------



## AstritaSadiablo

im running 7 64 bit. i attached a pic of the scores.


----------



## AstritaSadiablo

what type of performance increase should i expect moving from a phenom ii x6 to the 8350. ? My system already smokes on everything.


----------



## AstritaSadiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i am saberkitty 2.0
> 
> also which windows ? 7 or 8
> 
> max you can get in 7 is 7.8 to my knowledge only can get 7.9 with hyper threading
> 
> win 7 @ 4.8ghz cpu is 7.8
> 
> win 8 is like ~8.1


could i Expect a 7.8 rating with a 8350 overclocked? i have seen people overclock to 4.5 on air cooling.? or would it be 7.9?


----------



## riscorpian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstritaSadiablo*
> 
> could i Expect a 7.8 rating with a 8350 overclocked? i have seen people overclock to 4.5 on air cooling.? or would it be 7.9?


On Win8, I got a 7.9 on the CPU when I ran the assessment immediately after installing the 8350 into the Sabertooth (Gen3). And that was just with the stock clock of 4.2GHz (turbo and all that jazz was turned on). I now have turbo disabled and the clock is at 4.6. Haven't rerun the assessment since.

Not sure what result it would give on Win7.


----------



## AstritaSadiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riscorpian*
> 
> On Win8, I got a 7.9 on the CPU when I ran the assessment immediately after installing the 8350 into the Sabertooth (Gen3). And that was just with the stock clock of 4.2GHz (turbo and all that jazz was turned on). I now have turbo disabled and the clock is at 4.6. Haven't rerun the assessment since.
> 
> Not sure what result it would give on Win7.


More details about my computer

Component Details Subscore Base score
Processor AMD Phenom(tm) II X6 1035T Processor 7.5

Memory (RAM) 8.00 GB 7.5
Graphics AMD Radeon HD 7800 Series 7.9
Gaming graphics 4822 MB Total available graphics memory 7.9
Primary hard disk 19GB Free (60GB Total) 7.9
Windows 7 Ultimate

System

Manufacturer To be filled by O.E.M.
Model To be filled by O.E.M.
Total amount of system memory 8.00 GB RAM
System type 64-bit operating system
Number of processor cores 6

Storage

Total size of hard disk(s) 1923 GB
Disk partition (C 19 GB Free (60 GB Total)
Media drive (D CD/DVD
Disk partition (E 1815 GB Free (1863 GB Total)
Media drive (G CD

Graphics

Display adapter type AMD Radeon HD 7800 Series
Total available graphics memory 4822 MB
Dedicated graphics memory 1024 MB
Dedicated system memory 0 MB
Shared system memory 3798 MB
Display adapter driver version 9.12.0.0
Primary monitor resolution 1280x1024
DirectX version DirectX 10

Network

Network Adapter Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller

Notes

Do you think this system would benefit from the 8360. I already play crysis3 on high?


----------



## riscorpian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstritaSadiablo*
> 
> Do you think this system would benefit from the 8360. I already play crysis3 on high?


The bigger question is what use would you be able to get out of an 8350 that you can't get with your X6. Having an extra few threads to work with is a good plus, but the use you'll get out of it is limited. For example, I use image crushing software that can assign one image to each thread. I can now crush eight images simultaneously instead of four (I was on an X4, not an X6), which will get me through a batch about twice as fast. That's a clear advantage for me. I don't know what kind of software you're using though, so I can't give you a very clear recommendation on that.

I'd look into a few other things on that system of yours first. For starters, you're Win7, but it says you have DirectX 10, not 11? And the monitor resolution is a little small. If you're looking into better performance on games and the likes, you'd probably benefit more from getting a new GPU (or possibly a second for a crossfire) and a larger monitor to make sure your games aren't as CPU-bound.

Also, the Windows assessment isn't necessarily the best benchmark of your system's performance. Just because it says that the CPU doesn't get the highest score doesn't mean it's a fossil that needs to be replaced ASAP. My X4 965 only got a 7.4, and it was still a very mighty little chip. For normal day-to-day computing stuff, I really don't feel _that_ much of an improvement. Honestly, I think the new motherboard helped more than the new CPU in that area.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riscorpian*
> 
> The bigger question is what use would you be able to get out of an 8350 that you can't get with your X6. Having an extra few threads to work with is a good plus, but the use you'll get out of it is limited. For example, I use image crushing software that can assign one image to each thread. I can now crush eight images simultaneously instead of four (I was on an X4, not an X6), which will get me through a batch about twice as fast. That's a clear advantage for me. I don't know what kind of software you're using though, so I can't give you a very clear recommendation on that.
> 
> I'd look into a few other things on that system of yours first. For starters, you're Win7, but it says you have DirectX 10, not 11? And the monitor resolution is a little small. If you're looking into better performance on games and the likes, you'd probably benefit more from getting a new GPU (or possibly a second for a crossfire) and a larger monitor to make sure your games aren't as CPU-bound.
> 
> Also, the Windows assessment isn't necessarily the best benchmark of your system's performance. Just because it says that the CPU doesn't get the highest score doesn't mean it's a fossil that needs to be replaced ASAP. My X4 965 only got a 7.4, and it was still a very mighty little chip. For normal day-to-day computing stuff, I really don't feel _that_ much of an improvement. Honestly, I think the new motherboard helped more than the new CPU in that area.


well put.

as for me i didnt need to upgrade i wanted to. so if your like me you will love the 8350. besides that everything else she said was spot on i would think about a newer gpu that can easily do dx11 and a new monitor the lowest i would go for gaming is 7850 and monitor res is 1920x1080 you will love it ( monitors @ 5ms ( refresh rate {this is 60hz} dont get a higher number (when shown in ms like 8ms), lower is better {2ms is 120hz which is great for gaming}{higher number for hertz is good you only want 60+hz }


----------



## Tater00nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> {2ms is 120hz which is great for gaming}


My monitor is a 2ms but is not a 120Hz
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236080&cm_sp=DailyDeal-_-24-236-080-_-Homepage

But yes, the 2ms response time is noticeably crisper.


----------



## DeviloftheHell

game or 3d rendering its show the warning but 1 sec later it goes away and display a normal temperature


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riscorpian*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AstritaSadiablo*
> 
> Do you think this system would benefit from the 8360. I already play crysis3 on high?
> 
> 
> 
> The bigger question is what use would you be able to get out of an 8350 that you can't get with your X6. Having an extra few threads to work with is a good plus, but the use you'll get out of it is limited. For example, I use image crushing software that can assign one image to each thread. I can now crush eight images simultaneously instead of four (I was on an X4, not an X6), which will get me through a batch about twice as fast. That's a clear advantage for me. I don't know what kind of software you're using though, so I can't give you a very clear recommendation on that.
> 
> I'd look into a few other things on that system of yours first. For starters, you're Win7, but it says you have DirectX 10, not 11? And the monitor resolution is a little small. If you're looking into better performance on games and the likes, you'd probably benefit more from getting a new GPU (or possibly a second for a crossfire) and a larger monitor to make sure your games aren't as CPU-bound.
> 
> Also, the Windows assessment isn't necessarily the best benchmark of your system's performance. Just because it says that the CPU doesn't get the highest score doesn't mean it's a fossil that needs to be replaced ASAP. My X4 965 only got a 7.4, and it was still a very mighty little chip. For normal day-to-day computing stuff, I really don't feel _that_ much of an improvement. Honestly, I think the new motherboard helped more than the new CPU in that area.
Click to expand...

Upgrading for the sake of the Windows score is def something that always boggles me... I knew a guy who cared so much about it he would do things to get it higher and then undue them... it is like you know you can just set those to anything you want you know... he was like WHAT!

Anyways this guy hit it on the head... The 6 core procs are amazing... I loved my Thuban but doesn't change the fact that I got bored with it and just flat out traded it for a RIIIE w/ a 920... You get bored and you change things... If you got the cash it isn't a downgrade sooo get it!


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviloftheHell*
> 
> game or 3d rendering its show the warning but 1 sec later it goes away and display a normal temperature


Do not worry about this... I have experienced this on my 990FX, Z68, Z77 and whatever I had before the 990FX... Basically every Asus SuiteII capable board I have seen these odd warnings coming from the asus monitoring/warning software. I love ASUS boards but can't say much for the software... Use something else to monitor and alarm on your temperature.

I think either true temp or real temp or something like that has an alarm and shutdown capability and I have never had that problem with that... I don't really use any monitoring software once I actually know my temps are under control but my temps are very very far away from max temp and aside from a failed pump (which alarms and shut downs from something else) I don't see the PC over-heating.

If you run close to your max temp often and something as little as room temp going up 10c I would keep an alarm and shutdown program running.

----

Also under full load none of the ASUS software runs correctly. Not sure if you where aware of that or not. You could increase the priority but I don't know if that will work or not because I never cared enough to try it. That problem is so severe that if you are letting Asus Suite control your fan speeds and not the motherboard alone that you fan speeds can become eratic under full load. (like running at part speed then as soon as the computer gets a chance to breath they max out because that was the first chance AI Suite got to change them)


----------



## Codiac

Hello all. I have had a Rev 1 board for a while now running my OS on a small Crucial SSD. I now want to raid-0 two other SSD's for my steam/game drive, but leave my boot OS on the single SSD. This is where I have a few questions.

1-Since I found that changing the SB950 ports 1 - 4 to raid, changes 5 - 6 to Raid also, can I have my single boot drive connected to a raid port even though it is not part of the raid? I found some instructions to change windows OS driver from AHCI to Raid, will try that tonight.

2-If I can have my single boot drive work on a raid port, but not in an array, will I lose Trim on this drive? I know AMD doesn't support trim on drives in an array.

3-Since this Raid-0 will not be a boot drive, would I be better off just using windows 8 software raid, and leave all the ports sets to AHCI? Performance about the same? From what I can tell, I cant set read-ahead with software raid, but maybe on SSD's that is not as important?

4-If I do go with windows 8 software raid, with all drives on AHCI ports, would the drives in the software raid-0 have trim enabled since the SB950 ports and the windows SATA drivers would be the AHCI driver?

CPU is FX-8350

Sorry for all the questions on my first post. Appreciate any insight. Thanks!


----------



## DeviloftheHell

good to know, i rarely used the asus monitoring softwares always crashed after few weeks, its running on the backround, i didnt care about these random popups cos when i went into the software main window it showed reasonable temps maximum around 50celsius, 60 for the pcie due to the 6970 running on its stock reference cooler around 85+celsius, but when i saw the same jump to this 96c number on the aida 64 i posted my question here hoping its software not hardware


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Codiac*
> 
> Hello all. I have had a Rev 1 board for a while now running my OS on a small Crucial SSD. I now want to raid-0 two other SSD's for my steam/game drive, but leave my boot OS on the single SSD. This is where I have a few questions.
> 
> 1-Since I found that changing the SB950 ports 1 - 4 to raid, changes 5 - 6 to Raid also, can I have my single boot drive connected to a raid port even though it is not part of the raid? I found some instructions to change windows OS driver from AHCI to Raid, will try that tonight.
> 
> 2-If I can have my single boot drive work on a raid port, but not in an array, will I lose Trim on this drive? I know AMD doesn't support trim on drives in an array.
> 
> 3-Since this Raid-0 will not be a boot drive, would I be better off just using windows 8 software raid, and leave all the ports sets to AHCI? Performance about the same? From what I can tell, I cant set read-ahead with software raid, but maybe on SSD's that is not as important?
> 
> 4-If I do go with windows 8 software raid, with all drives on AHCI ports, would the drives in the software raid-0 have trim enabled since the SB950 ports and the windows SATA drivers would be the AHCI driver?
> 
> CPU is FX-8350
> 
> Sorry for all the questions on my first post. Appreciate any insight. Thanks!


wow... you have planned some weird stuff...

i dont really know how raid works,but i know FOR SURE, that it doesn't matter if your SSD comes from Jupiter, TRIM wont work on raid setups...

leave the single ssd on sata1 and in the 5-6 ports, put the raid0... easy as pie


----------



## Codiac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> wow... you have planned some weird stuff...
> 
> i dont really know how raid works,but i know FOR SURE, that it doesn't matter if your SSD comes from Jupiter, TRIM wont work on raid setups...
> 
> leave the single ssd on sata1 and in the 5-6 ports, put the raid0... easy as pie


I wish it was that easy. If you leave ports 1 - 4 on AHCI then you only have IDE/AHCI options for ports 5 - 6. Once you change ports 1 - 4 to raid, then 5 - 6 are locked to raid as well. This is how my options are on this Rev1 Sabertooth. If I could have raid on 2 ports and ahci on another port I would be set for sure.

Also, my question on single drive on a Raid port and trim, I was just wondering because it would not be in an array and the driver seems to say it was AMD AHCI compatible RAID controller.

Thanks for the response, I have a feeling that you just can't run a single boot drive ssd and a raid0 storage ssd array and keep Trim on the single OS boot drive since all ports get locked to RAID function as soon as you set one to Raid. Bummer.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Codiac*
> 
> I wish it was that easy. If you leave ports 1 - 4 on AHCI then you only have IDE/AHCI options for ports 5 - 6. Once you change ports 1 - 4 to raid, then 5 - 6 are locked to raid as well. This is how my options are on this Rev1 Sabertooth. If I could have raid on 2 ports and ahci on another port I would be set for sure.
> 
> Also, my question on single drive on a Raid port and trim, I was just wondering because it would not be in an array and the driver seems to say it was AMD AHCI compatible RAID controller.
> 
> Thanks for the response, I have a feeling that you just can't run a single boot drive ssd and a raid0 storage ssd array and keep Trim on the single OS boot drive since all ports get locked to RAID function as soon as you set one to Raid. Bummer.


i dont know enough about raid to say this but i really dont think your right. there is a set up that tells it what to do, otherwise how would you have a cd rom on a raid pc ? what i am saying is i think you separate them but i dont know how sorry ...

besides that i am pretty sure intel does not support trim in raid either....


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Codiac*
> 
> Once you change ports 1 - 4 to raid, then 5 - 6 are locked to raid as well. This is how my options are on this Rev1 Sabertooth. If I could have raid on 2 ports and ahci on another port I would be set for sure.
> I have a feeling that you just can't run a single boot drive ssd and a raid0 storage ssd array and keep Trim on the single OS boot drive since all ports get locked to RAID function as soon as you set one to Raid. Bummer.


Definitely wrong. I have a Rev 1. Sabertooth set to RAID for 1-4, with 5-6 set to IDE for Optical disks, I can select IDE or AHCI for 5-6 when 1-4 are on RAID.

None the less, you build an array to use RAID, so put your disks on 1-4 and only use 2 drives to build an array, and leave the 3rd for a single drive. Easily done.

I believe the RAID driver supports AHCI, so the single drive should run in AHCI mode anyway. I believe I saw this stated here on this thread in the past, although I could not locate it now in these 471 pages.


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstritaSadiablo*
> 
> Anyone running the fx 8350 on their sabertooth?


I have one running just fine.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Codiac*
> 
> Once you change ports 1 - 4 to raid, then 5 - 6 are locked to raid as well. This is how my options are on this Rev1 Sabertooth. If I could have raid on 2 ports and ahci on another port I would be set for sure.
> I have a feeling that you just can't run a single boot drive ssd and a raid0 storage ssd array and keep Trim on the single OS boot drive since all ports get locked to RAID function as soon as you set one to Raid. Bummer.
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely wrong. I have a Rev 1. Sabertooth set to RAID for 1-4, with 5-6 set to IDE for Optical disks, I can select IDE or AHCI for 5-6 when 1-4 are on RAID.
> 
> None the less, you build an array to use RAID, so put your disks on 1-4 and only use 2 drives to build an array, and leave the 3rd for a single drive. Easily done.
> 
> I believe the RAID driver supports AHCI, so the single drive should run in AHCI mode anyway. I believe I saw this stated here on this thread in the past, although I could not locate it now in these 471 pages.
Click to expand...

"deffinently wrong" ... lol raid on revision 1 Turns you to IDE across the board... sad but true, ther is no more AHCI anywhere with raid enabled, and raid itself does not run in ahci, this is true for all bios revisions on this mobo.

dont quote me on this, but I beleave its a limitation of the SB950 South Brige

single drive ahci on mine







... too damn hot for overclocking my system right now







so low cpu scores but none the less not bad for phenom 2 and a single gtx 480 rig


----------



## Codiac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*
> 
> Definitely wrong. I have a Rev 1. Sabertooth set to RAID for 1-4, with 5-6 set to IDE for Optical disks, I can select IDE or AHCI for 5-6 when 1-4 are on RAID.
> 
> None the less, you build an array to use RAID, so put your disks on 1-4 and only use 2 drives to build an array, and leave the 3rd for a single drive. Easily done.
> 
> I believe the RAID driver supports AHCI, so the single drive should run in AHCI mode anyway. I believe I saw this stated here on this thread in the past, although I could not locate it now in these 471 pages.


You are correct that you can set ports 5/6 to IDE if ports 1/4 are set to Raid, but you cannot set ports 5/6 to ACHI mode if 1/4 are set to raid, the AHCI/IDE option on 5/6 becomes RAID/IDE option once 1/4 are set to RAID. At least on my rev 1 with latest BIOS.

However, this is ok, im past this part and have my array built and have my raid drivers installed to my existing Windows 8 OS on the single drive. However so far I can only boot the OS if it is on port 5/6 in IDE mode. Otherwise if I have the single OS drive on the ports 1/4 RAID ports, I get the dreaded issue with amdsbs.sys and windows 8. I am fighting that issue now.


----------



## CasperGS

sub'd


----------



## asimriz

Hello Everyone,

I have the following specs:

*Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth 990fx v2.0 Bios Version 1503
CPU: AMD FX-8350 @4.4GHz (stable)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
GPU: ASUS GTX660Ti DirectCU 2GB (stock settings)
Memory: 8GB Corsair [email protected]
HDD: Seagate Barracuda [email protected] HDD
PSU: Seasonic M12II 650W Bronze Modular
Casing: Xigmatek Midguard-II Gaming Case
Monitor: Viewsonic VX2370Smh 23inch Gaming LED*

- All parts are BRAND NEW, nothing is second hand. I assembled this rig on 5th April 2013 (just 9 days ago). It posted fine & normally.
- I overclocked the CPU to 4.4GHz stable & even at high load, CPU temperatures were 45C MAX & GPU temperatures were 46C MAX.
- I use this rig mostly for gaming (DayZ, Resident Evil 6, BioShock Infinite etc) & it was running wonderfully ! It has been working superbly since day 1 until 2 hours ago when it just turned off suddenly.
- When I push the power button, the system turns on for 1 second, the CPU LED lights up for a split second, the CPU & chassis fans move but then everything turns off. There is NO BEEP.
- I re-checked my wiring connections, everything was perfectly fine ! If there were a problem with my wiring, my rig wouldn't run AT ALL.

So I took it all apart:
1) dismantled the CPU & CPU cooler, reapplied the thermal paste (made sure not to use too much, just a pea-sized amount), re-attached the cooler to the CPU.
2) disconnected GPU, HDD, memory just to see if it would post but NO POST.
3) used 1 memory module but still NO POST.
4) the power LED on the 990fx v2.0 is on which I guess means that the PSU is alright ?
5) I manually cleared the CMOS using the jumper on the mobo & also removed the little battery & replaced it but still NO POST.
6) I used the USB bios flashback feature but still NO POST (I used a FAT-32 formatted USB & renamed the bios file to ST990R20.cap). I updated the bios to the latest version (1503) on 5th April 2013 & I was having NO ISSUES, so this USB flashback was attempted using bios version 1302 just in case the new bios 1503 had caused this huge issue !
7) In all the above attempts to post, NO BEEP was heard.

I'm hoping I have provided everyone with sufficient information regarding my problem. Please help me. I feel like crap right now


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asimriz*
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> I have the following specs:
> 
> *Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth 990fx v2.0 Bios Version 1503
> CPU: AMD FX-8350 @4.4GHz (stable)
> CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
> GPU: ASUS GTX660Ti DirectCU 2GB (stock settings)
> Memory: 8GB Corsair [email protected]
> HDD: Seagate Barracuda [email protected] HDD
> PSU: Seasonic M12II 650W Bronze Modular
> Casing: Xigmatek Midguard-II Gaming Case
> Monitor: Viewsonic VX2370Smh 23inch Gaming LED*
> 
> - All parts are BRAND NEW, nothing is second hand. I assembled this rig on 5th April 2013 (just 9 days ago). It posted fine & normally.
> - I overclocked the CPU to 4.4GHz stable & even at high load, CPU temperatures were 45C MAX & GPU temperatures were 46C MAX.
> - I use this rig mostly for gaming (DayZ, Resident Evil 6, BioShock Infinite etc) & it was running wonderfully ! It has been working superbly since day 1 until 2 hours ago when it just turned off suddenly.
> - When I push the power button, the system turns on for 1 second, the CPU LED lights up for a split second, the CPU & chassis fans move but then everything turns off. There is NO BEEP.
> - I re-checked my wiring connections, everything was perfectly fine ! If there were a problem with my wiring, my rig wouldn't run AT ALL.
> 
> So I took it all apart:
> 1) dismantled the CPU & CPU cooler, reapplied the thermal paste (made sure not to use too much, just a pea-sized amount), re-attached the cooler to the CPU.
> 2) disconnected GPU, HDD, memory just to see if it would post but NO POST.
> 3) used 1 memory module but still NO POST.
> 4) the power LED on the 990fx v2.0 is on which I guess means that the PSU is alright ?
> 5) I manually cleared the CMOS using the jumper on the mobo & also removed the little battery & replaced it but still NO POST.
> 6) I used the USB bios flashback feature but still NO POST (I used a FAT-32 formatted USB & renamed the bios file to ST990R20.cap). I updated the bios to the latest version (1503) on 5th April 2013 & I was having NO ISSUES, so this USB flashback was attempted using bios version 1302 just in case the new bios 1503 had caused this huge issue !
> 7) In all the above attempts to post, NO BEEP was heard.
> 
> I'm hoping I have provided everyone with sufficient information regarding my problem. Please help me. I feel like crap right now


are you getting any warning lights either cpu or ram they should be located one near the socket before the ram and the other on the right side of the ram close to the drive bays? and do you have a speaker hooked up to the mobo (the one that attaches where the power and reset switches sit for case wires)

its still could be the PSU if everything checks out.. do you have a light on the actual PSU? and if you do does it show green when turned on? and do the fans spin up?


----------



## asimriz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> are you getting any warning lights either cpu or ram they should be located one near the socket before the ram and the other on the right side of the ram close to the drive bays? and do you have a speaker hooked up to the mobo (the one that attaches where the power and reset switches sit for case wires)
> 
> its still could be the PSU if everything checks out.. do you have a light on the actual PSU? and if you do does it show green when turned on? and do the fans spin up?


Cheers for your reply. Basically when the power is on & this is before I actually push the power button, ONLY the green power LED is on & of course the green LEDs on my GPU. NO other lights r on. The CPU LED flashes only when I press the power button otherwise it's not on.


----------



## dsmwookie

I m having a problem with my wife's new rig. Upon reformatting the computer locks up at the Windows starting screen every time. If I try to enter safemode it locks up as it displays the DOS commands being loaded at Windows 32 drivers. I m assuming this is the same point in the normal and safe mode. I do not know what to do to alleviate this? I have another 32 bit copy of windows which was locking up at the same time. Is it likely that the HDD locks up at the same point every time? Could my video be crashing it since it has no drivers loaded yet?


----------



## asimriz

And ooops, I just realized nope I DO NOT have a pc speaker hooked up. I feel like such an idiot. If I had one, I couldve seen what the problem was based on the beep pattern.... Any alternative ? I also hotwired the PSU, disconnected everything on my mainboard apart from 2 chassis fans but when I turned on the power, the fans DID NOT turn on...


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asimriz*
> 
> And ooops, I just realized nope I DO NOT have a pc speaker hooked up. I feel like such an idiot. If I had one, I couldve seen what the problem was based on the beep pattern.... Any alternative ? I also hotwired the PSU, disconnected everything on my mainboard apart from 2 chassis fans but when I turned on the power, the fans DID NOT turn on...


i would check to see if there is a flash code on the cpu light.. if not PSU tester / and or get a speaker
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> I m having a problem with my wife's new rig. Upon reformatting the computer locks up at the Windows starting screen every time. If I try to enter safemode it locks up as it displays the DOS commands being loaded at Windows 32 drivers. I m assuming this is the same point in the normal and safe mode. I do not know what to do to alleviate this? I have another 32 bit copy of windows which was locking up at the same time. Is it likely that the HDD locks up at the same point every time? Could my video be crashing it since it has no drivers loaded yet?


sounds like an issue with the install or the HDD were you trying to keep the files or do a straight reformat? my best bet would be try to see if the disks are dirty or scratched and if you have a spare HDD maybe try that..

off question do you have a reason to stay on 32 bit.. 64bit is way better?


----------



## dsmwookie

I have both 64/32bit which have the same error and it is a fresh format on either try. I don't have another HDD unfortunately : /


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> I have both 64/32bit which have the same error and it is a fresh format on either try. I don't have another HDD unfortunately : /


do you have any oc on it?


----------



## dsmwookie

Nope. Everything is new and this is a first time install. Everything is stock. The RAM being used is: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231466

My 2400 hasn't showed up yet and I know these work on my x58 rig.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asimriz*
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> I have the following specs:
> 
> *Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth 990fx v2.0 Bios Version 1503
> CPU: AMD FX-8350 @4.4GHz (stable)
> CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
> GPU: ASUS GTX660Ti DirectCU 2GB (stock settings)
> Memory: 8GB Corsair [email protected]
> HDD: Seagate Barracuda [email protected] HDD
> PSU: Seasonic M12II 650W Bronze Modular
> Casing: Xigmatek Midguard-II Gaming Case
> Monitor: Viewsonic VX2370Smh 23inch Gaming LED*
> 
> - All parts are BRAND NEW, nothing is second hand. I assembled this rig on 5th April 2013 (just 9 days ago). It posted fine & normally.
> - I overclocked the CPU to 4.4GHz stable & even at high load, CPU temperatures were 45C MAX & GPU temperatures were 46C MAX.
> - I use this rig mostly for gaming (DayZ, Resident Evil 6, BioShock Infinite etc) & it was running wonderfully ! It has been working superbly since day 1 until 2 hours ago when it just turned off suddenly.
> - When I push the power button, the system turns on for 1 second, the CPU LED lights up for a split second, the CPU & chassis fans move but then everything turns off. There is NO BEEP.
> - I re-checked my wiring connections, everything was perfectly fine ! If there were a problem with my wiring, my rig wouldn't run AT ALL.
> 
> So I took it all apart:
> 1) dismantled the CPU & CPU cooler, reapplied the thermal paste (made sure not to use too much, just a pea-sized amount), re-attached the cooler to the CPU.
> 2) disconnected GPU, HDD, memory just to see if it would post but NO POST.
> 3) used 1 memory module but still NO POST.
> 4) the power LED on the 990fx v2.0 is on which I guess means that the PSU is alright ?
> 5) I manually cleared the CMOS using the jumper on the mobo & also removed the little battery & replaced it but still NO POST.
> 6) I used the USB bios flashback feature but still NO POST (I used a FAT-32 formatted USB & renamed the bios file to ST990R20.cap). I updated the bios to the latest version (1503) on 5th April 2013 & I was having NO ISSUES, so this USB flashback was attempted using bios version 1302 just in case the new bios 1503 had caused this huge issue !
> 7) In all the above attempts to post, NO BEEP was heard.
> 
> I'm hoping I have provided everyone with sufficient information regarding my problem. Please help me. I feel like crap right now


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> are you getting any warning lights either cpu or ram they should be located one near the socket before the ram and the other on the right side of the ram close to the drive bays? and do you have a speaker hooked up to the mobo (the one that attaches where the power and reset switches sit for case wires)
> 
> its still could be the PSU if everything checks out.. do you have a light on the actual PSU? and if you do does it show green when turned on? and do the fans spin up?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asimriz*
> 
> Cheers for your reply. Basically when the power is on & this is before I actually push the power button, ONLY the green power LED is on & of course the green LEDs on my GPU. NO other lights r on. The CPU LED flashes only when I press the power button otherwise it's not on.


my suspect is psu just because it turns on when you jump it does not mean it is ok, i have one that will turn on and will read ok with a multimeter until there is a load on it.
fyi 1503 is fine
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> I m having a problem with my wife's new rig. Upon reformatting the computer locks up at the Windows starting screen every time. If I try to enter safemode it locks up as it displays the DOS commands being loaded at Windows 32 drivers. I m assuming this is the same point in the normal and safe mode. I do not know what to do to alleviate this? I have another 32 bit copy of windows which was locking up at the same time. Is it likely that the HDD locks up at the same point every time? Could my video be crashing it since it has no drivers loaded yet?


have this happen recently ( actually for a while. ) mine happens anytime i check the box in msconfig of windows no gui boot you can try to startup repair ( i have better luck with the repair on the disc
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asimriz*
> 
> And ooops, I just realized nope I DO NOT have a pc speaker hooked up. I feel like such an idiot. If I had one, I couldve seen what the problem was based on the beep pattern.... Any alternative ? I also hotwired the PSU, disconnected everything on my mainboard apart from 2 chassis fans but when I turned on the power, the fans DID NOT turn on...


soem psus dont turn on fans till they reach temp/load/ mixture
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Nope. Everything is new and this is a first time install. Everything is stock. The RAM being used is: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231466
> 
> My 2400 hasn't showed up yet and I know these work on my x58 rig.


hope you get it working i know it is a pain


----------



## amin12345

asimriz
I think it might be the PSU I had the same problem with my PC a month ago..tested another PSU on it and it started fine.


----------



## dsmwookie

Popped in a different hard drive, Guess this new one was DOA.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Popped in a different hard drive, Guess this new one was DOA.


glad it is fixed and was pretty easy lol


----------



## asimriz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> my suspect is psu just because it turns on when you jump it does not mean it is ok, i have one that will turn on and will read ok with a multimeter until there is a load on it.
> fyi 1503 is fine
> have this happen recently ( actually for a while. ) mine happens anytime i check the box in msconfig of windows no gui boot you can try to startup repair ( i have better luck with the repair on the disc
> soem psus dont turn on fans till they reach temp/load/ mixture
> hope you get it working i know it is a pain


Hey buddy, thanks for your reply. Actually, thank you all for ur advice. Much appreciated. I also feel it's the PSU that's at fault. Having it checked as we speak. A friend of mine works in an electronics workshop. He'll let me know in an hour or 2. I really hope it's this & NOT the mainboard...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asimriz*
> 
> Hey buddy, thanks for your reply. Actually, thank you all for ur advice. Much appreciated. I also feel it's the PSU that's at fault. Having it checked as we speak. A friend of mine works in an electronics workshop. He'll let me know in an hour or 2. I really hope it's this & NOT the mainboard...


hope it works out for you !~


----------



## asimriz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> hope it works out for you !~


Hey buddy, so it turns out it is infact my PSU that is faulty. My friend checked it out & also connected it to 2 other pcs which required much less wattage & the same thing happened with them that upon pressing the power button, the pc turned on for a split second & then turned off....

So based on my system specs what PSU would u suggest I purchase now:

*Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth 990fx v2.0 Bios Version 1503
CPU: AMD FX-8350 @4.4GHz (stable)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
GPU: ASUS GTX660Ti DirectCU 2GB (stock settings)
Memory: 8GB Corsair [email protected]
HDD: Seagate Barracuda [email protected] HDD
Casing: Xigmatek Midgard-II Gaming Case
Monitor: Viewsonic VX2370Smh 23inch Gaming LED*

Thanks in advance man !


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asimriz*
> 
> Hey buddy, so it turns out it is infact my PSU that is faulty. My friend checked it out & also connected it to 2 other pcs which required much less wattage & the same thing happened with them that upon pressing the power button, the pc turned on for a split second & then turned off....
> 
> So based on my system specs what PSU would u suggest I purchase now:
> 
> *Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth 990fx v2.0 Bios Version 1503
> CPU: AMD FX-8350 @4.4GHz (stable)
> CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
> GPU: ASUS GTX660Ti DirectCU 2GB (stock settings)
> Memory: 8GB Corsair [email protected]
> HDD: Seagate Barracuda [email protected] HDD
> Casing: Xigmatek Midgard-II Gaming Case
> Monitor: Viewsonic VX2370Smh 23inch Gaming LED*
> 
> Thanks in advance man !


personally I only recommend seasonic psus (the gold or platinum rated ones)

most people are going to tell you 550 watt is enough. if it were me I would get around 750 but that is a personal thing really it is up to you just don't get a cheap one and you should be happy


----------



## amin12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asimriz*
> 
> Hey buddy, so it turns out it is infact my PSU that is faulty. My friend checked it out & also connected it to 2 other pcs which required much less wattage & the same thing happened with them that upon pressing the power button, the pc turned on for a split second & then turned off....
> 
> So based on my system specs what PSU would u suggest I purchase now:
> 
> *Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth 990fx v2.0 Bios Version 1503
> CPU: AMD FX-8350 @4.4GHz (stable)
> CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
> GPU: ASUS GTX660Ti DirectCU 2GB (stock settings)
> Memory: 8GB Corsair [email protected]
> HDD: Seagate Barracuda [email protected] HDD
> Casing: Xigmatek Midgard-II Gaming Case
> Monitor: Viewsonic VX2370Smh 23inch Gaming LED*
> 
> Thanks in advance man !


Yep get a 750w or 800w just to make it future proof.


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asimriz*
> 
> Hey buddy, so it turns out it is infact my PSU that is faulty. My friend checked it out & also connected it to 2 other pcs which required much less wattage & the same thing happened with them that upon pressing the power button, the pc turned on for a split second & then turned off....
> 
> So based on my system specs what PSU would u suggest I purchase now:
> 
> *Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth 990fx v2.0 Bios Version 1503
> CPU: AMD FX-8350 @4.4GHz (stable)
> CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
> GPU: ASUS GTX660Ti DirectCU 2GB (stock settings)
> Memory: 8GB Corsair [email protected]
> HDD: Seagate Barracuda [email protected] HDD
> Casing: Xigmatek Midgard-II Gaming Case
> Monitor: Viewsonic VX2370Smh 23inch Gaming LED*
> 
> Thanks in advance man !


I will agree with the others on this, a good quality 750w should be all you'll need and will give you room to grow.


----------



## DeviloftheHell

planning to change out this 550watt cheiftec ps to a higher capacity one, i was looking at the chieftec bps 1200c or the aps 1000c, after that seasonic psu was mentioned i was looking at the price difference and its well above 30% plus on top of the chieftec, i cant find much info on the 1000c but the bps 1200c looks well built from inside i dont know if they psu-s are made by delta nodaways too or not, which would you pick for the long run btw? i never had any of the previous 6 chieftec psu to fail the oldest one is now 12 years old and still working fine, some posts can be found on the net disregarding their products but i find no evidence of mass failures etc we got a 90% doa unit once put the pc together brand new cpu+board+that 650modular chieftec psu, after 2 restard during windows installation a huge bang then there goes the motherboard too, the service couldnt determine the board shorted or the psu and took the board with it but both were dead, they replaced both of them, it was a high end asus board for the new i7 2600 back then when that came out, the replacement still works with rock solid output


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviloftheHell*
> 
> planning to change out this 550watt cheiftec ps to a higher capacity one, i was looking at the chieftec bps 1200c or the aps 1000c, after that seasonic psu was mentioned i was looking at the price difference and its well above 30% plus on top of the chieftec, i cant find much info on the 1000c but the bps 1200c looks well built from inside i dont know if they psu-s are made by delta nodaways too or not, which would you pick for the long run btw? i never had any of the previous 6 chieftec psu to fail the oldest one is now 12 years old and still working fine, some posts can be found on the net disregarding their products but i find no evidence of mass failures etc we got a 90% doa unit once put the pc together brand new cpu+board+that 650modular chieftec psu, after 2 restard during windows installation a huge bang then there goes the motherboard too, the service couldnt determine the board shorted or the psu and took the board with it but both were dead, they replaced both of them, it was a high end asus board for the new i7 2600 back then when that came out, the replacement still works with rock solid output


idk anything about that brand, seasonic is the best psu on the market imo though . lowest ripple i have ever seen and maintains 80+gold even in 8 hour torture tests @40+ ambient, that is what you are paying for

their quality is unmatched in the industry imo


----------



## Krusher33

I went to OCN's ln2 event this past weekend and a guy had a box of stuff he was giving away (mostly junk). In it was an OCZ RAM cooler that I grabbed. I tried it last night: with the 120mm fan that was blowing over the entire area I was at about 53c. With this ram cooler sitting on the VRM heatsink it dropped to 51c, maybe lower.

I also met Dolk from overclockers.com (his sabertooth review) and he had his Sabertooth with him. He had it all prepped and ready for benching but everyone kept him busy with GPU and board modding and I don't remember seeing him actually bench on it.

He did say though he like benching on the Sabertooth over other AMD boards. He was about to tell me why but we got interrupted.


----------



## aclymer

Does anyone have a spare set of heatsinks for the sabertooth? I'm buying a board cheap because they took off the heatsinks for water cooling and lost them.


----------



## dsmwookie

So far I do REALLY like the BIOS setup it is a vast improvement over my x58.

If only I could get an H220 here so I could start overclocking this turd.


----------



## DeviloftheHell

intresting system monitoring softwares or just the windows needs a reinstall cos the change of the cpu and motherboard under it, i mentioned earlier sometimes for a second it jumps up and reports temps 88celsius 96 celsius fan rpm at 5k and 7.5k with arctic fans which is 1350max and 2k max then after a second goes back to the reasonable 4-50 celsius range, wondering if its really just stupid software or hardware, and since that unparking tool i get random crashes, even at windows startup, but seems like its fixed itself for tonight didnt notice any performance boost from it so reverted the changes(i dont use the system restore or anything and the acronis backup image is corrupted for some reason so the last state i have on a fully installed system and mostly used progs are from last year







sucks...)

tested the crashes for anything related for temps or hardware loading nothing during the test, its occuring in idle, so disabled all of the power saving states


----------



## sdcalihusker

Here is my validation to get into the club:

http://valid.canardpc.com/2771257

Been using this board for about 2 months now, and have really enjoyed the capabilities it provides.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviloftheHell*
> 
> intresting system monitoring softwares or just the windows needs a reinstall cos the change of the cpu and motherboard under it, i mentioned earlier sometimes for a second it jumps up and reports temps 88celsius 96 celsius fan rpm at 5k and 7.5k with arctic fans which is 1350max and 2k max then after a second goes back to the reasonable 4-50 celsius range, wondering if its really just stupid software or hardware, and since that unparking tool i get random crashes, even at windows startup, but seems like its fixed itself for tonight didnt notice any performance boost from it so reverted the changes(i dont use the system restore or anything and the acronis backup image is corrupted for some reason so the last state i have on a fully installed system and mostly used progs are from last year
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sucks...)
> 
> tested the crashes for anything related for temps or hardware loading nothing during the test, its occuring in idle, so disabled all of the power saving states


that sucks what program again are you using ( sorry dont remember )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdcalihusker*
> 
> Here is my validation to get into the club:
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/2771257
> 
> Been using this board for about 2 months now, and have really enjoyed the capabilities it provides.


welcome glad you like it!


----------



## aclymer

Does anyone have the heatsinks off this board? I'm looking to buy one at a steal, but it's missing all the heatsinks. I guess it was some watercooling setup.


----------



## RJFTech

My cpu z validation to join the asus club 

http://valid.canardpc.com/2772731

Did I need to change the pc name to match my user name on here.

Glad to say the squealing I was getting from the motherboard that I posted on herea few weeks back turned out to be a faulty NVidia graphics card combined with my psu dieing big time.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJFTech*
> 
> My cpu z validation to join the asus club
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/2772731
> 
> Did I need to change the pc name to match my user name on here.
> 
> Glad to say the squealing I was getting from the motherboard that I posted on herea few weeks back turned out to be a faulty NVidia graphics card combined with my psu dieing big time.


im glad welcome. !~


----------



## dsmwookie

Just reporting in. The Trident X 2400 RAM took the factory settings. I will try and work on the timings. Now I m playing the waiting game on a Swiftech H220 so I can begin overclocking the CPU.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdcalihusker*
> 
> Here is my validation to get into the club:
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/2771257
> 
> Been using this board for about 2 months now, and have really enjoyed the capabilities it provides.


What are your other voltage settings? My 6300 took a good bit more voltage for 5 ghz. I feel like I'm missing something.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## amin12345

hi, guys i just got me a sabertooth r2.0 and i cant get the front and back audio to work simultaneously like my old motherboard.


----------



## lastguytom

if you are using the Mb sound, go to the control panel for the real realltech sound and there is a box that says.MAKE FRONT AND REAR CONNECTIONS SEPARATE CONNECTIONS,(fill in with a check mark) this way you can have speakers plugged in the back, along with a microphone , and still use your headset that has a mic too, you just set the default in the control panel..go to WWW.realtech.com, or asus . or email me at [email protected]


----------



## dsmwookie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amin12345*
> 
> hi, guys i just got me a sabertooth r2.0 and i cant get the front and back audio to work simultaneously like my old motherboard.


Did you download the drivers off the website or use the CD? What case are you using and did you plug up the audio on the motherboard?


----------



## amin12345

i installed the drivers that came with the CD, i have a cm stryker and yes i did plug it the motherboard properly, and it works on the front side and back side the thing is i want it to work both sides back and front audio simultaneously? can the sabertooth r2.0 do that?


----------



## sdcalihusker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> What are your other voltage settings? My 6300 took a good bit more voltage for 5 ghz. I feel like I'm missing something.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2


Here are the voltages and DIGI+ Settings that I am using:

CPU Voltage: 1.51250v
CPU/NB: 1.28750v
NB Voltage: 1.12500v
VDDA Voltage: 2.51875v

All other voltages are default.

DIGI+ Settings:

CPU LLC: Ultra High
CPU Current Capability: 130%
CPU/NB LLC: High
CPU/NB Current Capability: 130%

CPU Power Phase Control: Extreme
CPU Power Response Control: Ultra Fast

All others default.

Keep in mind that each chip is different and these settings may or may not help you stabilize at a lower voltage. The above settings that helped me stabilize the most are CPU Power Phase and Response controls. I didn't look to see if you have your rig configured in your profile, but I would advise you to keep close watch of your thermal conditions when stressing with the above settings, as they do increase the heat generated a little bit. I'm running a XSPC RS360 kit with only the CPU in the loop, and I do not usually get over 50 C when I run stress tests.


----------



## bond32

Thanks. And nice temps... No I haven't updated my rig yet. Haven't had the sabertooth 24 hours yet. I'm just going off what I learned on the Asrock 990fx extreme 4 which it took 1.6 volts for the Cpu to be stable at 5 gig.

Lots more settings in the sabertooth board. I really like it so far. I ordered a 200mm fan to blow down to the vrm so hopefully that will keep it stable. Case is the haf xb.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## sdcalihusker

Not a bad idea to put the fan down. It will help tremendously with the VRM temps. I actually just took the fan off the heat sink that came with the CPU and attached it to the VRM heatsink.


----------



## bond32

Probably will have to settle for just under 5 ghz. I don't seem to be able to stabilize 5 ghz without adding a ton of voltage.


----------



## sdcalihusker

What are you using to test your stability? I run IBT AVX for 10 runs at normal or high, and have not had any difficulties with anything that leans on the processor.

I can't get stable on Prime95 at any voltage, including stock and stock clocks.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdcalihusker*
> 
> What are you using to test your stability? I run IBT AVX for 10 runs at normal or high, and have not had any difficulties with anything that leans on the processor.
> 
> I can't get stable on Prime95 at any voltage, including stock and stock clocks.


prime does not like most vishara chips

make sure you use ibt-avx pushes your chip much harder then normal


----------



## bond32

Prime95. At 4.9 gig it is stable but upping the multi to 5 causes prime to freeze. This is at a voltage of around 1.535 set and it gets to 1.560 in load. I will have to up the voltage to get it stable, just confused why there are so many with it stable at 5 gig with much lower voltages... I know they are different cpus.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Prime95. At 4.9 gig it is stable but upping the multi to 5 causes prime to freeze. This is at a voltage of around 1.535 set and it gets to 1.560 in load. I will have to up the voltage to get it stable, just confused why there are so many with it stable at 5 gig with much lower voltages... I know they are different cpus.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2


some amd chips dont like 5ghz but are just fine at 4.99

you can try to see if you are using fsb ocing to just go back to stock and see if it will boot at 5. some chips have dead bands in fsb as well ie wont do 230-240 but are fine at 241 THAT IS JUST AN EXAMPLE but many have found it true. also fyi fsb ocing has no proven benefits with vishara. just rumors )


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah that's how I did mine. I just dropped multi down by one, bumped up fsb and got my 5.

Plus the voltage need over 4.8 goes up... like exponentially, lol


----------



## bond32

IBT=Intel burn in test? What is that setting "avx"?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> IBT=Intel burn in test? What is that setting "avx"?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> IBT AVX.zip 4327k .zip file
> 
> 
> I think u need the hotfixes for win7 installed for it to work properly. if you not got them let me know and ill post em here


----------



## bond32

Thanks! First test failed, reboot. 200 base clock 25x multi, trying 1.55 volts now...


----------



## sdcalihusker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> prime does not like most vishara chips
> 
> make sure you use ibt-avx pushes your chip much harder then normal


I run IBT AVX exclusively when testing stability now. It definitely does push the processor harder.

Bond32: here is a good thread for you to check out if you haven't already. Good overclocking advise for ASUS boards. http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard


----------



## bond32

Thanks, yeah I frequently consult that guide. I am still baffled as to why it takes so much more voltage for this 6300 to run high...

Still experimenting. Trying a high fsb low multi now. For the IBT test, what settings do you use? Also I can't seem to find this windows 7 hotfix anywhere...

Edit: May have found the issue, HPC needed to be disabled. But now IBT gets to test 8 then I get an unexpected error, no windows crash or blue screen. Need to locate this hotfix...


----------



## sdcalihusker

I use standard and very high stress settings with 10 passes. Another thing to keep in mind is that your 6300 is a default 3.5GHz while my 8350 is a default 4.0GHz. You may not be able to hit 5GHz as you may have already hit the max your chip can support.

One thing I have noticed through testing is that if I set the LLC to Extreme, the voltage will jump up to higher levels than what it did with LLC set to Ultra High. What I mean is, using the same settings I posted earlier, if my LLC is set to ultra high, I get between 1.512 and 1.536 volts at load. Using an LLC of Extreme, it jumps up to 1.576 or higher without changing any other setting.


----------



## mironccr345

Any new on the new sabertooth mobo release?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdcalihusker*
> 
> I use standard and very high stress settings with 10 passes. Another thing to keep in mind is that your 6300 is a default 3.5GHz while my 8350 is a default 4.0GHz. You may not be able to hit 5GHz as you may have already hit the max your chip can support.
> 
> One thing I have noticed through testing is that if I set the LLC to Extreme, the voltage will jump up to higher levels than what it did with LLC set to Ultra High. What I mean is, using the same settings I posted earlier, if my LLC is set to ultra high, I get between 1.512 and 1.536 volts at load. Using an LLC of Extreme, it jumps up to 1.576 or higher without changing any other setting.


llc does not correct for vdrop it adds volts, eventually it will pass the drop just like you experience based on the level.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Any new on the new sabertooth mobo release?


it is out in the us a few places that have it are amazon and newegg


----------



## Krusher33

I still don't understand why they haven't made water blocks yet.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I still don't understand why they haven't made water blocks yet.


because ek said they wont


----------



## sdcalihusker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> llc does not correct for vdrop it adds volts, eventually it will pass the drop just like you experience based on the level.
> it is out in the us a few places that have it are amazon and newegg


Yep. I think that is what I was trying to express. With LLC at ultra high, the voltage is increased enough to account for the vdroop, but at Extreme LLC the board seems to compensate with more voltage than is necessary to account for the vdroop. Am I expressing it correctly now?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdcalihusker*
> 
> Yep. I think that is what I was trying to express. With LLC at ultra high, the voltage is increased enough to account for the vdroop, but at Extreme LLC the board seems to compensate with more voltage than is necessary to account for the vdroop. Am I expressing it correctly now?


sorry i thought you were asking why


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I still don't understand why they haven't made water blocks yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> because ek said they wont
Click to expand...

Why not?!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Why not?!


when i asked them, that is pretty much the answer i got " we dont want to" not really what they said but that is how i felt .


----------



## Krusher33

It is a bit late in the game to worry about it now. But I bet there is at least some regrets.


----------



## drkidd22

So I got me a Sabertooth 990fx R3. Now I'm trying to overclock the CPU. I have an older 945 and I love it. Don't have the budget to upgrade cpu now, but will do later. So I've overclocked with my M2N32 before (long time ago) and want to do it with the sabertooth now. I want to shoot for 3.6GHz and run the DDR3 Ram I got at it's max settings. So I figure the base multiplier is 15 (locked) so I set other setting to 240 which should get me to 3.6GHz and that's were I am now. Any other settings I should change? My CPU-Z shows my memory running at 800Mhz, should that be more like 1866MHz? Any tips please let me know. Also for some reason my clock is jumping aroung, from 3.4 to 3.6.

http://valid.canardpc.com/2774536


----------



## bond32

I cannot for the life of me get this stable at 5 ghz. It will run all day at 4.9 although that 4.9 is with a vcore of 1.55 volts. I feel like I am still missing something... The ram I have is 8 gig corsair 2100 runs at 9-11-10-30 at 1.5v. I have tested the ram at multiple speeds and it doesn't seem to have any effect. The only thing I haven't really messed with yet is the NB. I have kept it at its stock voltage.

So to summerize, here is where I am at. FX6300, fsb of 205, multi of 24.5 which puts cpu at 5 ghz. NB is at 2200, HT is at 2600, ram at 2133 stock timings.

Voltages:
CPU: 1.578
CPU/NB: 1.3
DRAM: 1.6
VDDA: 2.6

rest stock, LLC at extreme. Anything less than extreme it fails to boot.

Aside from bumping up the vcore yet again, maybe mine won't do 5 ghz.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2774517

Edit: temps are fine. core gets to 51 C at load.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I cannot for the life of me get this stable at 5 ghz. It will run all day at 4.9 although that 4.9 is with a vcore of 1.55 volts. I feel like I am still missing something... The ram I have is 8 gig corsair 2100 runs at 9-11-10-30 at 1.5v. I have tested the ram at multiple speeds and it doesn't seem to have any effect. The only thing I haven't really messed with yet is the NB. I have kept it at its stock voltage.
> 
> So to summerize, here is where I am at. FX6300, fsb of 205, multi of 24.5 which puts cpu at 5 ghz. NB is at 2200, HT is at 2600, ram at 2133 stock timings.
> 
> Voltages:
> CPU: 1.578
> CPU/NB: 1.3
> DRAM: 1.6
> VDDA: 2.6
> 
> rest stock, LLC at extreme. Anything less than extreme it fails to boot.
> 
> Aside from bumping up the vcore yet again, maybe mine won't do 5 ghz.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2774517
> 
> Edit: temps are fine. core gets to 51 C at load.


try digi options up the cpu alotment to 140%


----------



## bond32

Giving that a try. Also trying high fsb low multi... Got bored of prime so playing some counterstrike for a while, game just froze at 4.8 ghz 1.53 vcore


----------



## darkangelire66

I seem to be having overheating issues with my phenom II x6 1100t. I keep getting temperatures of 60-68 degrees when I start a game or when I try defragging. I'm kinda worried it's my motherboard or cpu failing


----------



## bond32

What are all your voltage settings?


----------



## darkangelire66

I think they're stock voltages but where would I check to see them. would it be under thermal radar or turbo evo


----------



## bond32

Thermal Radar. If you haven't adjusted any voltage settings then there may be a problem if you're reaching those temps. Although that cpu does produce a little more heat...


----------



## darkangelire66

it started doing it this week. could the thermal compound need to be replaced. also I got the stock cooler which I hear is terrible


----------



## bond32

Well if you have the stock cooler and you haven't don't any overclocking I wouldn't worry about it. Unless the stock fan has failed or there wasn't any thermal paste on it when you applied it...

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## dorian101

re-posting on main forum page


----------



## amin12345

@ Dorian101 disconnect everything from the PSU and connect ur PSU to the motherboard take out the ram and cpu too keep your GPU in if its needed now try to see if you can get a picture.


----------



## dorian101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amin12345*
> 
> @ Dorian101 disconnect everything from the PSU and connect ur PSU to the motherboard take out the ram and cpu too keep your GPU in if its needed now try to see if you can get a picture.


i cant
h100i needs its connections and honestly i see no point in this test.


----------



## amin12345

no point? I am trying to see where the fault really is if you disconnect all the components except the motherboard and see if it could boot into the bios then we would know that the motherboard is at fault or not.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> What are all your voltage settings?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkangelire66*
> 
> I think they're stock voltages but where would I check to see them. would it be under thermal radar or turbo evo


dont use thermal radar it is junk, i get error temps and volts all the time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Thermal Radar. If you haven't adjusted any voltage settings then there may be a problem if you're reaching those temps. Although that cpu does produce a little more heat...


could be could be miss read readings. use hwinfo64 much better program
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkangelire66*
> 
> it started doing it this week. could the thermal compound need to be replaced. also I got the stock cooler which I hear is terrible


it is but should be fine for stock however i would manually lower llc to high on both cpu and cpu/nb ( assuming it is the same as the fx series )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dorian101*
> 
> OK GUYS, big problem! and i really need help!
> seems like i killed something on my 990fx r2.0
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> First of all you can see my complete rig on my signautre but for shorts this is what i got:
> fx8350
> 2X8 1600 corsair dominator platinum
> 990fx r2.0
> sapphire 7970
> x2 2tb seagate barracuda
> thermaltake 850w
> 
> Here is the deal:
> bought accelaro xtreme 7970 and installed with instructions
> first try to boot and i get a short circuit, lights for half a second and then nothing, everything shuts down - didnt realize that at first so i tried a couple of times like an idiot!
> thought some of the heatsinks on the accelaro were touching so took apart and tried again - no luck.
> after the third time i tried to boot i saw some smoke in the back of the case, this is what happend:
> these are the fan cables of acclearo
> 
> 
> i connected it via molex adapter that came with the accelaro - so it was not connected directly to the mobo
> might be a faulty cable or adapter but who cares im gonna replace it easy peasy after some screaming @ my local vendor.
> THIS IS NOT THE MAIN ISSUE ^
> 
> After all this i disconnected my 7970 all together and tried to boot withought the gpu.
> within a second or so i saw smoke coming out of a particular side of the mobo:
> 
> 
> to be more specific:
> 
> 
> this scared me, so i disconnected everything including mobo battery and was ready to try to get my warrenty applied.
> after a few hours i took a brave pill and connected everything back together to see what happens,
> re-installed my ivy cooler on the 7970 and tried to boot.
> right now what happens is the system turning on with regular system checks
> like the h100i going through the 7 seconds full fan speed thing but i still get no signal on any of the monitors.
> changed pcie slot, changed dimm slots, pressed the memok button and the direct key but nothing happens
> when pressing the memok button it does flash but that's it.
> by the way and this is probebly importent, the CPU LED light is constantly on.
> 
> this is all iv'e done so far and considering the vendor will open up two days from now i got some time to try and figure this out myself.
> 
> I will be here all night trying to make sense of all of it - please, if you think you know something try and help.
> 
> if you think there is another place where i should post this please notify.
> 
> 
> 
> THANK YOU!


there area smoke was from the vrms. that would be power to your board , cpu and ram. imo just rma it good news is that wire is just the ground. your psu should be ok. your vid card may or may not be.


----------



## darkangelire66

how do I do that


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkangelire66*
> 
> how do I do that


go into bios.

digi+ power control.

cpu load line calibration change to high

cpu/nb load line calibration change to high

http://benchmarkreviews.com/images/reviews/motherboards/TUF-X79/ASUS-TUF-Sabertooth-X79-UEFI-BIOS-AI-Tweaker-Power.jpg


----------



## bond32

Updated the bios, now I'm having trouble getting into the bios itself. Not near as bad as the gigabyte was but seems I have to hit delete at the correct time Window... is this normal?

Edit: to clarify, sometimes booting from cold or restart it hangs on the splash screen. Restart then tap delete after I see my keyboard light up and its fine. Very aggravating...

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Updated the bios, now I'm having trouble getting into the bios itself. Not near as bad as the gigabyte was but seems I have to hit delete at the correct time Window... is this normal?
> 
> Edit: to clarify, sometimes booting from cold or restart it hangs on the splash screen. Restart then tap delete after I see my keyboard light up and its fine. Very aggravating...
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2


try disabling jmicron oprom, or something like that


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> try disabling jmicron oprom, or something like that


Not sure what that is but I will look for it, thanks.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Updated the bios, now I'm having trouble getting into the bios itself. Not near as bad as the gigabyte was but seems I have to hit delete at the correct time Window... is this normal?
> 
> Edit: to clarify, sometimes booting from cold or restart it hangs on the splash screen. Restart then tap delete after I see my keyboard light up and its fine. Very aggravating...
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2


or press the direct key ( see my sabertooth mod guide in my sig i love it !~)


----------



## bond32

I would use the direct key but it has its own set of issues it seems. If I press it on the next boot the majority of the time it will hang at the splash screen or I get no video.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I would use the direct key but it has its own set of issues it seems. If I press it on the next boot the majority of the time it will hang at the splash screen or I get no video.


that isnt right may try reflashing bios


----------



## bond32

Tried the one before the latest and still no change. From a cold boot pressing the direct key does nothing but show the splash screen then goes to a blank screen and hangs there. Restart then press delete at the right time and I can enter the bios, or if I restart after pressing the direct key it will boot to windows.


----------



## riscorpian

http://valid.canardpc.com/2776985

Seems pretty stable so far. I'll push it a bit further later on, but the temperatures are starting to concern me. I have a few more ideas left, so I'll give them a shot when I'm ready to push it more.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> or press the direct key ( see my sabertooth mod guide in my sig i love it !~)


oh i was thinking that his mobo was the r1.0 version....


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Tried the one before the latest and still no change. From a cold boot pressing the direct key does nothing but show the splash screen then goes to a blank screen and hangs there. Restart then press delete at the right time and I can enter the bios, or if I restart after pressing the direct key it will boot to windows.


do you have quick boot enabled?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> do you have quick boot enabled?


Yes but disabling it seemed to have no effect.

I updated the bios but from the bios itself and it seems to be behaving normal now... I am just waiting for the 8350 to come in. Got too frustrated with the 6300...


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Yes but disabling it seemed to have no effect.
> 
> I updated the bios but from the bios itself and it seems to be behaving normal now... I am just waiting for the 8350 to come in. Got too frustrated with the 6300...


nice you should notice a difference,., and yeah sometimes the best way is through the BIOS itself.. in fact i just skip all the other steps and do it that way.. i seem to have less issues


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> nice you should notice a difference,., and yeah sometimes the best way is through the BIOS itself.. in fact i just skip all the other steps and do it that way.. i seem to have less issues


Yeah, with this board there's lots of different ways lol. I was getting pretty mad, this 6300 once it got to 4.9 ghz everything past that took 1.6+ volts and even then probably wasn't stable. I was on the fence about the 8350 so now I will just take the plunge. $60 price difference between the two, ill just go for it lol.


----------



## Mega Man

figured i would give you all a teaser. i have not updated my rig pics in awhile and snapped one earlier

so here it is. ill update when i get my new loop all connected



on a side note i love my dslr pc was on and fans were running when i snapped that pic... and i just decided to take another pic while i was writing this ill post it up in a sec



yep pc still running i love that camera.
another side note, unfortunately that is how these cards come... all scratched. only complaint i have but you cant see them usually so it really is very minor. these pics definitely bring it out though


----------



## pastasalad

need some help with my sabertooth 990fx im not sure if i can rma it

ive had it about 8 months never overclocked it

yesterday it lit up on my ram and refused to post after i took any stick out it posted when i restarted again it got stuck on my gtx660ti
i memtested for 4 days on my ram

i get stutters,audio beeps and pops,mini freezes black screens and irql bsods, IRQL NOT LESS OR EQUAL looking at my system information under irqs shows this

Resource Device Status
IRQ 4294967294 ASMedia XHCI Controller OK
IRQ 7 BitDefender AVC HV OK
IRQ 18 Standard OpenHCD USB Host Controller OK
IRQ 18 Standard OpenHCD USB Host Controller OK
IRQ 52 PCI standard PCI-to-PCI bridge OK
IRQ 13 Numeric data processor OK
IRQ 16 High Definition Audio Controller OK
IRQ 16 PCI standard PCI-to-PCI bridge OK
IRQ 16 PCI standard PCI-to-PCI bridge OK
IRQ 20 Standard OpenHCD USB Host Controller OK
*IRQ 4294967292* Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller OK
I*RQ 4294967293* ASMedia XHCI Controller OK
IRQ 22 Standard OpenHCD USB Host Controller OK
IRQ 81 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 82 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 83 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 84 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 85 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 86 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 87 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 88 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 89 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 90 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 91 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 92 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 93 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 94 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 95 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 96 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 97 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 98 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 99 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 100 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 101 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 102 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 103 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 104 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 105 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 106 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 107 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 108 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 109 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 110 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 111 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 112 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 113 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 114 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 115 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 116 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 117 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 118 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 119 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 120 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 121 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 122 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 123 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 124 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 125 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 126 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 127 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 128 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 129 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 130 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 131 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 132 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 133 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 134 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 135 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 136 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 137 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 138 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 139 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 140 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 141 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 142 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 143 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 144 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 145 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 146 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 147 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 148 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 149 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 150 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 151 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 152 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 153 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 154 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 155 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 156 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 157 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 158 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 159 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 160 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 161 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 162 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 163 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 164 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 165 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 166 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 167 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 168 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 169 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 170 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 171 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 172 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 173 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 174 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 175 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 176 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 177 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 178 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 179 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 180 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 181 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 182 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 183 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 184 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 185 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 186 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 187 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 188 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 189 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 190 Microsoft ACPI-Compliant System OK
IRQ 53 PCI standard PCI-to-PCI bridge OK
IRQ 53 PCI standard PCI-to-PCI bridge OK
IRQ 0 System timer OK
IRQ 19 AMD SATA Controller OK

can anyone compare or tell me this is bad and i need to rma


----------



## DMills

Add meeeee



Validation

Are there any full-cover blocks for this board?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMills*
> 
> Add meeeee
> 
> 
> 
> Validation
> 
> Are there any full-cover blocks for this board?


unfortunately no
most used board out and they dont make it and refuse to make a block for it


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastasalad*
> 
> need some help with my sabertooth 990fx im not sure if i can rma it
> 
> ive had it about 8 months never overclocked it
> 
> yesterday it lit up on my ram and refused to post after i took any stick out it posted when i restarted again it got stuck on my gtx660ti
> i memtested for 4 days on my ram
> 
> i get stutters,audio beeps and pops,mini freezes black screens and irql bsods, IRQL NOT LESS OR EQUAL looking at my system information under irqs shows this
> 
> can anyone compare or tell me this is bad and i need to rma


Howdy!!!

Step one would be, is anything overclocked? If so can you please set it to stock settings. This includes running that ram at the stock IMC settings and not the rams rated speed.

Possibly remove 1 ram dimm and see if it happens then swap the dimm. I had similar problems once on a i7-920 and a RIIIE and even though it passed all stress and memory checks it ended up being a QPI speed issue.

Start with doing step by step trouble shooting.

Sorry if that isn't much help but please let us know what you have done on your own so far.


----------



## DMills

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> unfortunately no
> most used board out and they dont make it and refuse to make a block for it


How about recommended universal blocks?
I'm looking for a decent MOSFET & NB block(s) for a MCP35X. probably no more than 2 rads


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMills*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> unfortunately no
> most used board out and they dont make it and refuse to make a block for it
> 
> 
> 
> How about recommended universal blocks?
> I'm looking for a decent MOSFET & NB block(s) for a MCP35X. probably no more than 2 rads
Click to expand...

The heat sinks respond to air cooling very well also the support plate on the rear for the VRM heat sink gets extremely hot and responds to air cooling as well. The NB is inside of the CPU itself and the Southy doesn't need extra cooling. Air cooling will be sufficient. There are some universal blocks that will work but all that will be doing is dumping heat into your CPU loop. Just throw some 40-60mm fans at it. If you really want some major cooling then get some 60MM Delta fans out of a server. I saw a set of 5 on eBay going for ~$15-20 shipped They are PWM fans but need the ends cut off and to be re-terminated with normal 4 pin PWM connectors. I would recommend wiring the PWM and RPM to the 4 pin fan header and the 12v to a 4 pin molex so you don't ever accidently try to grab power from the motherboard. In PWM mode the power doesn't need to be from the motherboard.

If you are interested in going fan based I can link you some more information but if you are set on water then good luck and let us know your results.


----------



## DMills

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> The heat sinks respond to air cooling very well also the support plate on the rear for the VRM heat sink gets extremely hot and responds to air cooling as well. The NB is inside of the CPU itself and the Southy doesn't need extra cooling. Air cooling will be sufficient. There are some universal blocks that will work but all that will be doing is dumping heat into your CPU loop. Just throw some 40-60mm fans at it. If you really want some major cooling then get some 60MM Delta fans out of a server. I saw a set of 5 on eBay going for ~$15-20 shipped They are PWM fans but need the ends cut off and to be re-terminated with normal 4 pin PWM connectors. I would recommend wiring the PWM and RPM to the 4 pin fan header and the 12v to a 4 pin molex so you don't ever accidently try to grab power from the motherboard. In PWM mode the power doesn't need to be from the motherboard.
> 
> If you are interested in going fan based I can link you some more information but if you are set on water then good luck and let us know your results.


I have noticed pretty low temperatures @250mhz on the bus,
I just figured that I'd need watercooling on the bus to go up to 275-ish later with an 8350 (which def needs the loop)
temps are around 45-55 under daily load, with very low fan speeds for quietness

I'll probably be grabbing a small RAM cooler, so maybe this'll be all I really need then eh?


----------



## Krusher33

I'm at 250+ bus and I just use an OCZ memory cooler (same thing as the Corsair one) on top of the heatsink now. They're quiet and still provide plenty of needed air.


----------



## DMills

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I'm at 250+ bus and I just use an OCZ memory cooler (same thing as the Corsair one) on top of the heatsink now. They're quiet and still provide plenty of needed air.


craziness.

I have the Gigabyte 990fx UD3 board, and holy cow their bus gets *HOT*

it's at the same 250mhz -- bad enough that I can feel the heat on the outside of the case
The gigabyte board is in my "Bull" in sig, and it's got a Swiftech H220 on the cpu, which keeps under 55 full load @ 4.6ghz

I guess that just says something for ASUS's build quality?
If so, I'm glad I dropped that 200$









edit: I also removed all the UD3's rubberized thermal pads & replaced with MX-4--only gave me like 2-3 decrease in temps


----------



## Krusher33

I don't think raising the bus speed is what increases the heat of the VRM's, the chip voltage itself does?

At first I noticed heat rising from the heatsinks. Not hot but enough heat to notice when a hand is close enough. I installed a 120mm fan over the area and it improved my overclocking quite a bit because it also lowered my CPU temps. I just found the memory cooler for free last week. I'm brainstorming a way to install it. Right now it's just sitting there. I have some ideas. It's just how much work I want to put into it.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I don't think raising the bus speed is what increases the heat of the VRM's, the chip voltage itself does?
> 
> At first I noticed heat rising from the heatsinks. Not hot but enough heat to notice when a hand is close enough. I installed a 120mm fan over the area and it improved my overclocking quite a bit because it also lowered my CPU temps. I just found the memory cooler for free last week. I'm brainstorming a way to install it. Right now it's just sitting there. I have some ideas. It's just how much work I want to put into it.


and frequency of power has a big part of it

as far as the memory cooler i beleive people in the 83XX club have been able to mount it directly on the vrm heatsink and dropped temps way down


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah I can't remember how they did it. I think it was with zip ties.

But I might make a mount and use the mother board screws. Like I said, how much work I want to put into it... either make something or just tie it down.


----------



## bond32

Yeah despite all the great reviews I was pretty let down with the ud3. At one point when run in the 6300 stock the NB heatsink was too hot to touch... out of curiosity I felt it to see how warm it was.


----------



## chrystal

so the warm spring is finally coming (yey!) and now i want to return to default settings on my amd system...
first problem: i can't enable the power saving mode some how, and i need help.

i also need to pay more for electricity now in the summer so, heat + more expensive = no

jumped in to uefi/bios and reverted to default settings, saved, restarted.

checking CPU-Z now at idle ,it says my cpu is running at 4.1ghz.which is kinda too much just for browsing the web.
all "states" are enabled ,cool and quiet also.

really confused about this, what seems to be the problem?

i even tried to manually downclock the cpu to 3.5ghz with 4.2ghz turbo but still its running at 4.1-4.2ghz pretty much all the time









edit: sabertooth 2.0


----------



## amin12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrystal*
> 
> so the warm spring is finally coming (yey!) and now i want to return to default settings on my amd system...
> first problem: i can't enable the power saving mode some how, and i need help.
> 
> i also need to pay more for electricity now in the summer so, heat + more expensive = no
> 
> jumped in to uefi/bios and reverted to default settings, saved, restarted.
> 
> checking CPU-Z now at idle ,it says my cpu is running at 4.1ghz.which is kinda too much just for browsing the web.
> all "states" are enabled ,cool and quiet also.
> 
> really confused about this, what seems to be the problem?
> 
> i even tried to manually downclock the cpu to 3.5ghz with 4.2ghz turbo but still its running at 4.1-4.2ghz pretty much all the time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: sabertooth 2.0


Well you could try flashing a different bios and flashing back to the one your in now? Maybe that will revert everything back to normal..but its strange that it will not revert back to normal settings....oh and do you have any over clocking utility s running on windows? That your forgetting about?


----------



## amin12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrystal*
> 
> so the warm spring is finally coming (yey!) and now i want to return to default settings on my amd system...
> first problem: i can't enable the power saving mode some how, and i need help.
> 
> i also need to pay more for electricity now in the summer so, heat + more expensive = no
> 
> jumped in to uefi/bios and reverted to default settings, saved, restarted.
> 
> checking CPU-Z now at idle ,it says my cpu is running at 4.1ghz.which is kinda too much just for browsing the web.
> all "states" are enabled ,cool and quiet also.
> 
> really confused about this, what seems to be the problem?
> 
> i even tried to manually downclock the cpu to 3.5ghz with 4.2ghz turbo but still its running at 4.1-4.2ghz pretty much all the time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: sabertooth 2.0


Well you could try flashing a different bios and flashing back to the one your in now? Maybe that will revert everything back to normal..but its strange that it will not revert back to normal settings....oh and do you have any over clocking utility s running on windows? That your forgetting about?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrystal*
> 
> so the warm spring is finally coming (yey!) and now i want to return to default settings on my amd system...
> first problem: i can't enable the power saving mode some how, and i need help.
> 
> i also need to pay more for electricity now in the summer so, heat + more expensive = no
> 
> jumped in to uefi/bios and reverted to default settings, saved, restarted.
> 
> checking CPU-Z now at idle ,it says my cpu is running at 4.1ghz.which is kinda too much just for browsing the web.
> all "states" are enabled ,cool and quiet also.
> 
> really confused about this, what seems to be the problem?
> 
> i even tried to manually downclock the cpu to 3.5ghz with 4.2ghz turbo but still its running at 4.1-4.2ghz pretty much all the time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: sabertooth 2.0


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amin12345*
> 
> Well you could try flashing a different bios and flashing back to the one your in now? Maybe that will revert everything back to normal..but its strange that it will not revert back to normal settings....oh and do you have any over clocking utility s running on windows? That your forgetting about?


it probably is not the bios

you need to goto power options
change advanced settings. make sure you select the active profile

processor power management and change the min state

that is my guess
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMills*
> 
> How about recommended universal blocks?
> I'm looking for a decent MOSFET & NB block(s) for a MCP35X. probably no more than 2 rads


you can mount the koolance vrm block * the big one * and the big 140mm plate with it if you want. i will be using a peice of copper with a ram cooler later ill tell you how it works when i can afford it lol


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMills*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> unfortunately no
> most used board out and they dont make it and refuse to make a block for it
> 
> 
> 
> How about recommended universal blocks?
> I'm looking for a decent MOSFET & NB block(s) for a MCP35X. probably no more than 2 rads
Click to expand...

See below:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *utnorris*
> 
> Ok, so after seeing MrG and what he did, I went ahead and water cooled my NB and VRM's. Here is the part list:
> 
> Koolance CHC-125 - Requires no mod, but you do remove one of the retaining arms so spacing is correct.
> 
> http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=0_29_66&product_id=663
> 
> Koolance MVR-100
> 
> http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=0_29_66&product_id=736
> 
> Koolance MVR-PLT140 - You do have to drill holes in the plate so it lines up with the stock back plate, but then you use the stock back plate and screws to mount it.
> 
> http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=0_29_108&product_id=737
> 
> Temps are consistent across the VRM's and NB, sitting at 37c. So not too bad. Under stress test they move up to 42c and only vary by a degree or two between the hottest and coolest part Vcore 1, Vcore 2 and NB HT temps. Keep in mind this was only for 5 minutes, didn't feel like sitting around waiting on it.
> 
> I will take some later and post them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *utnorris*
> 
> Had to use my phone for the pics, but hopefully you can see how I did it.
> 
> PICS:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Decided to water cool my PERC 5i RAID card:
> 
> 
> 
> Overkill? Yes. Do I care? No.


----------



## chrystal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it probably is not the bios
> 
> you need to goto power options
> change advanced settings. make sure you select the active profile
> 
> processor power management and change the min state


yes you are correct, i totally forgot windows own power features... silly me


----------



## markshim

Hi guys

Can anyone help me with this please

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384947/pc-will-not-start-in-the-morning-help-please

I think I posted in the wrong thread.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markshim*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> Can anyone help me with this please
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384947/pc-will-not-start-in-the-morning-help-please
> 
> I think I posted in the wrong thread.


no problem it really sounds like a dead cmos battery you also may want to reflash\update bios


----------



## markshim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no problem it really sounds like a dead cmos battery you also may want to reflash\update bios


I have replaced the battery but I won't know if its worked until tomorrow morning coz that's when it plays up for some reason, I have also reinstalled all my drivers just incase.


----------



## WretchedToad

Hi,
first ever forum post please direct me to the correct thread if im not supposed to be here. (dont want to be caught out putting my virgin post in the wrong hole)

Please could you help me with my build, i plan on getting the sabertooth 990fx this week with the Amd 6300. I will be using it strictly for gaming, do you think this is a good match to complete the build i have so far? (i do plan on overclocking it, but only to a stable clock with effeicent noise level)

Monitor: Dell U3011 (res 2560x1600), Soundcard: Creative fatality, Gpu's: 6970 2gb crossfire, Memory: 6gb Kingston ddr3 1600mhz, Psu: Seasonic X-series 1050watt, Storage: SSD 120gb + sata mechanical 2tb drives.
Water cooling parts
Phobya 1080 rad with 4 x phobya 180 fans, a pair of mcp655/d5 pumps on ek top, phobya res, ek full nickle cpu block, a pair of koolance gpu-220 blocks, koolance vrm block, koolance gpu 200 block for nb.


----------



## bond32

Looks good man but with all that water cooling stuff you should go for some high clocks. With the sabertooth, 6300, and my kraken x60 my max stable over clock was around 4.9


----------



## WretchedToad

Wow thats a nice clock. If i get the 6300 and it clocks upto 4.9 stable i will be happy, but it has to be nice and quite too. This is going to be my first proper water cooled build so theres going to be alot of tweaking with lots of unwarranted twitching.

Whats the noise level like on your kraken like? I wasnt happy with my all in one h70's thats why i am upgrading to a almost full water loop system. I had 2 h70's on my 6970's and a h70 on my 2500k, wasnt a pritty site.


----------



## bond32

Noise level with mine is not a problem to me. At its "normal" levels/mode, the fans are probably the loudest thing in my comp, but by no means unpleasant.

I'm working on stabilizing high clocks on my new 8350 so when I test it I run the fan profiles much higher or at 100 percent. Otherwise I'm very happy with the noise to performance of it.


----------



## WretchedToad

Nice, i dont think my problems with the h70 was too bad but im abit fussy with the noise. The 6970's were the main culprites in mass riots inside my computer case.
Sorry to bug you again but you metioned that you have the 8350,i was wondering are you also running that on the sabertooth? and do you think it is worth me getting the 8350 instead of the 6300.
As far as i have read so far they both clock around the same speed and i only want it for gaming so im not sure if i will benefit from the 2 extra cores. (is there more than meets the eye)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markshim*
> 
> I have replaced the battery but I won't know if its worked until tomorrow morning coz that's when it plays up for some reason, I have also reinstalled all my drivers just incase.


now that i have time i can go into more detail.

the reason it sounds like your batt had a weak charge. it sounds as though you shut off your pc at night. it goes all night without powering on and then wont post. what happens overnight is it drains the battery down past what your board can boot on with ( long term strain on the battery) and after it is on the battery is able to recharge enough to do short term drains ( please note your motherboard does not recharge batteries, however batteries do recharge themselves to a point. if a flash light goes completely dead you can shut it off and in a few min or even 30 seconds you can turn it on and it will have some light again. this is because the batteries recharged them selves also please note this is not actually what happens ( they dont actually recharge ) this is just an easy way to explain it. )

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WretchedToad*
> 
> Hi,
> first ever forum post please direct me to the correct thread if im not supposed to be here. (dont want to be caught out putting my virgin post in the wrong hole)
> 
> Please could you help me with my build, i plan on getting the sabertooth 990fx this week with the Amd 6300. I will be using it strictly for gaming, do you think this is a good match to complete the build i have so far? (i do plan on overclocking it, but only to a stable clock with effeicent noise level)
> 
> Monitor: Dell U3011 (res 2560x1600), Soundcard: Creative fatality, Gpu's: 6970 2gb crossfire, Memory: 6gb Kingston ddr3 1600mhz, Psu: Seasonic X-series 1050watt, Storage: SSD 120gb + sata mechanical 2tb drives.
> Water cooling parts
> Phobya 1080 rad with 4 x phobya 180 fans, a pair of mcp655/d5 pumps on ek top, phobya res, ek full nickle cpu block, a pair of koolance gpu-220 blocks, koolance vrm block, koolance gpu 200 block for nb.


you are fine here it will run it absolutely fine saberkitty is one of the best boards out for am3+ imo esp for ocing

personally i would recommend against 180mm fans/rads

the reason is the best static pressure fans are 120mm followed closely by 140mm fans. you want high static pressue when dealing with radiators CFMs dont matter near as much.
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/02/18/why-static-pressure-max-flow-specs-are-poor-measures-of-fan-performance/
check that out it may help abit the whole site is full of great and accurate info for watercooling but also just look at the fan section for this info i am talking about.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WretchedToad*
> 
> Wow thats a nice clock. If i get the 6300 and it clocks upto 4.9 stable i will be happy, but it has to be nice and quite too. This is going to be my first proper water cooled build so theres going to be alot of tweaking with lots of unwarranted twitching.
> 
> Whats the noise level like on your kraken like? I wasnt happy with my all in one h70's thats why i am upgrading to a almost full water loop system. I had 2 h70's on my 6970's and a h70 on my 2500k, wasnt a pritty site.


that really depends on your water cooling setup then your mobo.

however you will have to put a fan on your vrms and possibly it would help to put one in back of the cpu socket. this depends on the oc you want which seems kinda high ( meaning you will probably need to do this. )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WretchedToad*
> 
> Nice, i dont think my problems with the h70 was too bad but im abit fussy with the noise. The 6970's were the main culprites in mass riots inside my computer case.
> Sorry to bug you again but you metioned that you have the 8350,i was wondering are you also running that on the sabertooth? and do you think it is worth me getting the 8350 instead of the 6300.
> As far as i have read so far they both clock around the same speed and i only want it for gaming so im not sure if i will benefit from the 2 extra cores. (is there more than meets the eye)


it can it really depends on the game, your financial situation and if you really think it will help. i can tell you i love mine and in games like crysis3, bio shock infant and i believe tomb raider they do use all cores really well.


----------



## WretchedToad

Hi Mega Man, thanks for the info. I agree with you on the 120 fans = better static pressure, but 9 x 120 fans on a 1080 rad is going to get a little noisy. I do have 9 x 120 ernermax fans plus the 4 phobya 180 fans. I plan on experimenting around between both to find the best overall puRrrrformance/ noise level. I have tryed a fair few different brands of fans and for me found the best 120 fan to be the ernermax fans as i cannot hear any air flow noise (they dont push that much) and no high pitch coil whine in any position. At the end of the day every build is different and calls on differnet setups. I have found that it does not really matter how much air your pushing, if you have not got descnet air fow in the case. Its all about balance, extracting the heat before it builds up, but being carefull not to end up with negative pressure. Ying and yang man, peace and love all wraped up in a electical box of goodies.
This is my first proper water cooled build so its all about trying different things for me at the moment.
As for the vrms i plan to put a koolance vrm block on it. (vrm = violent reactive monster) I am going to try cutting up some copper so it will fit over the vrms and the chokes then put the vrm block on top.
I think i will still go for the AMD 6300 because i currently run the 2500k with crossfire 6970 and my cpu doesnt seem to struggle at all. Hmm not sure now i plan to upgrade to 7970 crossfire in about 6 months with a resolution of 2560x1600 which will be double the graphical power i am running at the moment. Do you think i would benifit more from the 8350? I play mostly bf3 which is gpu heavy, but i do play games like crysis, tomb raider, hitman, bio shock like your self. Ahh i dont now i should just get the 8350 and see what this saber kitty can do.


----------



## Pill Monster

@WretchedToad-

Why are you replacing the 2500K with a much slower FX-6300?

And fwiw AMD CPU's don't support triple channel memory, so it may pay to get an extra 2GB stick since I'm not sure the Sabertooth can run dual channel with 3 dimms installed. (check the manual).


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WretchedToad*
> 
> Hi Mega Man, thanks for the info. I agree with you on the 120 fans = better static pressure, but 9 x 120 fans on a 1080 rad is going to get a little noisy.


I have a Mo-Ra 3 9x120 radiator. I use (2) Silverstone AP181 180MM fans and am very happy with the sound. Also if your radiator fin spacing is wide enough the Air Penetrator design is ideal if you are not going to use a shroud.

If you have not seen what the air penetrator fans then check out the video they have on that link.

Another recommendation I can make for fans is you can run (9) or (18) 120x38 Delta Electronics AFC121DE (Dell part# MJ989). You can get them for around $10-15 ea on ebay. They do not have a compatible plug which is fine because all a compatible plug would do is cause a fire.

Just cut all the plugs off then either terminate each fan with the RPM and PWM on a 4 pin fan connector and then the 12v on a molex or since you are running so many fans I would save the time and money and just run up to 9 fans to 14au or thicker wire and put a molex on the end of that. Then run all the PWM signals to a small 16au wire and terminate that with the RPM lead from (1) fan ONLY 1 fan. Then you can connect that 4 pin header to a PWM plug on your motherboard. If you use 18 fans then make (2) sets of 9 and plug one plug into each of the (2) PWM headers on the motherboard.

You will be able to run these fans WHISPER quiet nearly all of the time. They are very heavy fans and designed to last a long time. If you ever need/want the power they can get up to 4000RPM and output 200CFM per fan. They will fly at 4000 RPM (no really they will lift themselves into the air) so be very careful to keep anything and everything from coming into contact with them. I was testing one and the PWM lead came off the motherboard and the fan went full speed flew across the floor into my foot and exploded and severely injuring my pinky toe







They usually come with a grille attached to them... I wouldn't remove it unless there is some other form of protection.

Anyways best fans you can get for the money... perfectly quiet, will last for a very long time, extremely powerful, no need for high wattage expensive and HOT fan controllers since the speeds are controlled through a PWM signal and not the voltage. They will always be running 12v.

I use the DELTA's in several builds and they just STOMP on anything I have ever used. I will only use PWM fans because the ability to run multiple fans off a single PWM signal and because they can go the slowest when compared to there max speed. Non PWM fans can't go as slow since at a certain voltage the fan will stop AND the start up voltage is higher than that voltage so if you are using a manual fan controller you can't set the fans to the lowest speed because you will have to turn it up every time you restart and then turn it back down. Which is why most motherboards only let you set non pwm fans as low as 60% duty where as I believe the PWM controllers will go as low as 20%.

At 800RPM I can barely tell these fans are on at all. They are quieter than my Excaliburs, SP120s, and other fans when they are all ran around 1800RPM... The excaliburs (which I like a lot). Cost 2x as much usually and at 2000RPM they become obnoxiously loud. (better off buying blademasters because of the price).

Just my 2 cents.


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> I have a Mo-Ra 3 9x120 radiator. I use (2) Silverstone AP181 180MM fans and am very happy with the sound. Also if your radiator fin spacing is wide enough the Air Penetrator design is ideal if you are not going to use a shroud.
> 
> If you have not seen what the air penetrator fans then check out the video they have on that link.
> 
> Another recommendation I can make for fans is you can run (9) or (18) 120x38 Delta Electronics AFC121DE (Dell part# MJ989). You can get them for around $10-15 ea on ebay. They do not have a compatible plug which is fine because all a compatible plug would do is cause a fire.
> 
> Just cut all the plugs off then either terminate each fan with the RPM and PWM on a 4 pin fan connector and then the 12v on a molex or since you are running so many fans I would save the time and money and just run up to 9 fans to 14au or thicker wire and put a molex on the end of that. Then run all the PWM signals to a small 16au wire and terminate that with the RPM lead from (1) fan ONLY 1 fan. Then you can connect that 4 pin header to a PWM plug on your motherboard. If you use 18 fans then make (2) sets of 9 and plug one plug into each of the (2) PWM headers on the motherboard.
> 
> You will be able to run these fans WHISPER quiet nearly all of the time. They are very heavy fans and designed to last a long time. If you ever need/want the power they can get up to 4000RPM and output 200CFM per fan. They will fly at 4000 RPM (no really they will lift themselves into the air) so be very careful to keep anything and everything from coming into contact with them. I was testing one and the PWM lead came off the motherboard and the fan went full speed flew across the floor into my foot and exploded and severely injuring my pinky toe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They usually come with a grille attached to them... I wouldn't remove it unless there is some other form of protection.
> 
> Anyways best fans you can get for the money... perfectly quiet, will last for a very long time, extremely powerful, no need for high wattage expensive and HOT fan controllers since the speeds are controlled through a PWM signal and not the voltage. They will always be running 12v.
> 
> I use the DELTA's in several builds and they just STOMP on anything I have ever used. I will only use PWM fans because the ability to run multiple fans off a single PWM signal and because they can go the slowest when compared to there max speed. Non PWM fans can't go as slow since at a certain voltage the fan will stop AND the start up voltage is higher than that voltage so if you are using a manual fan controller you can't set the fans to the lowest speed because you will have to turn it up every time you restart and then turn it back down. Which is why most motherboards only let you set non pwm fans as low as 60% duty where as I believe the PWM controllers will go as low as 20%.
> 
> At 800RPM I can barely tell these fans are on at all. They are quieter than my Excaliburs, SP120s, and other fans when they are all ran around 1800RPM... The excaliburs (which I like a lot). Cost 2x as much usually and at 2000RPM they become obnoxiously loud. (better off buying blademasters because of the price).
> 
> Just my 2 cents.


Gt a pic of your fan set up? Sounds cool.


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> The heat sinks respond to air cooling very well also the support plate on the rear for the VRM heat sink gets extremely hot and responds to air cooling as well. The NB is inside of the CPU itself and the Southy doesn't need extra cooling. Air cooling will be sufficient. There are some universal blocks that will work but all that will be doing is dumping heat into your CPU loop. Just throw some 40-60mm fans at it. If you really want some major cooling then get some 60MM Delta fans out of a server. I saw a set of 5 on eBay going for ~$15-20 shipped They are PWM fans but need the ends cut off and to be re-terminated with normal 4 pin PWM connectors. I would recommend wiring the PWM and RPM to the 4 pin fan header and the 12v to a 4 pin molex so you don't ever accidently try to grab power from the motherboard. In PWM mode the power doesn't need to be from the motherboard.
> 
> If you are interested in going fan based I can link you some more information but if you are set on water then good luck and let us know your results.


Actually the NB isn't in the CPU your confusing the NB chip with the CPU/NB interface.


----------



## farscaper

Heres my problem

my computer has been randomly shutting down. The first time it shutdown i was watching a movie at full screen 1920x1080, it killed my corsair hx 750w pro power supply , my 3tb seagate drive, and my dvd drive.
At the time i was running windows 8 64 bit, 16gb of ram ripjaw x quad channel, diamond Hd radeon 7870 factory over clocked on the third pci-e slot. Since then i bought a new power supply ( thermaltake 850 w 80% bronze, a new 1tb seagate hard drive(barracuda). This time i installed windows 7 ultimate 64 bit, I also bought a back up battery than can handle up to 600 watts in case of power failure. Ive noticed when i hooked it up that it drawing 20 to 40 more watts of power according the back up battery readings. I thus changed the video card to pci-e slot 1, and now it drawing less power. I'm thinking its a bad pci-e slot thus causing my computer to randomly shutdown when using the video card at full load.

Any thoughts?.

Bios are all stock settings nothing has been changed, i am running the newest bios revision 1604 . Cpu is fx 8350.


----------



## amin12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farscaper*
> 
> Heres my problem
> 
> my computer has been randomly shutting down. The first time it shutdown i was watching a movie at full screen 1920x1080, it killed my corsair hx 750w pro power supply , my 3tb seagate drive, and my dvd drive.
> At the time i was running windows 8 64 bit, 16gb of ram ripjaw x quad channel, diamond Hd radeon 7870 factory over clocked on the third pci-e slot. Since then i bought a new power supply ( thermaltake 850 w 80% bronze, a new 1tb seagate hard drive(barracuda). This time i installed windows 7 ultimate 64 bit, I also bought a back up battery than can handle up to 600 watts in case of power failure. Ive noticed when i hooked it up that it drawing 20 to 40 more watts of power according the back up battery readings. I thus changed the video card to pci-e slot 1, and now it drawing less power. I'm thinking its a bad pci-e slot thus causing my computer to randomly shutdown when using the video card at full load.
> 
> Any thoughts?.
> 
> Bios are all stock settings nothing has been changed, i am running the newest bios revision 1604 . Cpu is fx 8350.


Sounds like your power supply was the fault that's why it kept randomly shutting down and it killed the other components with it, I doubt it was the pci-e


----------



## farscaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amin12345*
> 
> Sounds like your power supply was the fault that's why it kept randomly shutting down and it killed the other components with it, I doubt it was the pci-e


So I bought a new power supply , I checked this new one (thermaltake 850w)with a tester it's fine, and last night while I was playing guild wars 2 on medium settings it crashed again I n a dungeon . But it let me turn the computer back on. Idk I should probably RMA the board


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farscaper*
> 
> Heres my problem
> 
> my computer has been randomly shutting down. The first time it shutdown i was watching a movie at full screen 1920x1080, it killed my corsair hx 750w pro power supply , my 3tb seagate drive, and my dvd drive.
> At the time i was running windows 8 64 bit, 16gb of ram ripjaw x quad channel, diamond Hd radeon 7870 factory over clocked on the third pci-e slot. Since then i bought a new power supply ( thermaltake 850 w 80% bronze, a new 1tb seagate hard drive(barracuda). This time i installed windows 7 ultimate 64 bit, I also bought a back up battery than can handle up to 600 watts in case of power failure. Ive noticed when i hooked it up that it drawing 20 to 40 more watts of power according the back up battery readings. I thus changed the video card to pci-e slot 1, and now it drawing less power. I'm thinking its a bad pci-e slot thus causing my computer to randomly shutdown when using the video card at full load.
> 
> Any thoughts?.
> 
> Bios are all stock settings nothing has been changed, i am running the newest bios revision 1604 . Cpu is fx 8350.


could be alot, however i have never heard of a video card taking out hds psus and cd drives.....

sounds to me like a psu issue .

i dont know much about thermal take but there are some bad thermal take psu out i know. ill link a guy to talk to on ocn that is a genius about psus

this guys is amazing
http://www.overclock.net/t/652549/on-thermaltake-psus/0_100 good reading for you now .

could be drivers could be vidoe card getting too hot, could be vid card has failed.

but i have never heard of a video card taking out anything except maybe psu

although it is recommended you run your video card in pciex16 slot 1 for best performance


----------



## farscaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> could be alot, however i have never heard of a video card taking out hds psus and cd drives.....
> 
> sounds to me like a psu issue .
> 
> i dont know much about thermal take but there are some bad thermal take psu out i know. ill link a guy to talk to on ocn that is a genius about psus
> 
> this guys is amazing
> http://www.overclock.net/t/652549/on-thermaltake-psus/0_100 good reading for you now .
> 
> could be drivers could be vidoe card getting too hot, could be vid card has failed.
> 
> but i have never heard of a video card taking out anything except maybe psu
> 
> although it is recommended you run your video card in pciex16 slot 1 for best performance


Well i think the video card is fine, i ran guild wars 2 for a few hours , and resident evil 6 also for a few hours at high settings, and mind you the video card is still in slot one , not in 3 where i mentioned earlier. And it hasn't crashed on me yet.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mistral*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> The heat sinks respond to air cooling very well also the support plate on the rear for the VRM heat sink gets extremely hot and responds to air cooling as well. The NB is inside of the CPU itself and the Southy doesn't need extra cooling. Air cooling will be sufficient. There are some universal blocks that will work but all that will be doing is dumping heat into your CPU loop. Just throw some 40-60mm fans at it. If you really want some major cooling then get some 60MM Delta fans out of a server. I saw a set of 5 on eBay going for ~$15-20 shipped They are PWM fans but need the ends cut off and to be re-terminated with normal 4 pin PWM connectors. I would recommend wiring the PWM and RPM to the 4 pin fan header and the 12v to a 4 pin molex so you don't ever accidently try to grab power from the motherboard. In PWM mode the power doesn't need to be from the motherboard.
> 
> If you are interested in going fan based I can link you some more information but if you are set on water then good luck and let us know your results.
> 
> 
> 
> Actually the NB isn't in the CPU your confusing the NB chip with the CPU/NB interface.
Click to expand...

LOL... yes that is exactly what I did... well kind of I think I was also at the same time confusing it with the memory controller.

My bad... thanks for the correction/slap


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> LOL... yes that is exactly what I did... well kind of I think I was also at the same time confusing it with the memory controller.
> 
> My bad... thanks for the correction/slap


no need to apologize we are hear to help


----------



## RichardPwnsner

Ordered the Gen3 from Amazon a couple weeks ago, and it *still* hasn't shipped. This whole release has been weird: first the paucity of information, and now the apparently short supply. Hope there weren't any quirks they were concerned about.


----------



## Mega Man

i think it is more amazon newegg sells them too and you can get them np

all of the amazon sales on this mobo i have seen is a third party selling their stuff on amazon . one of the many reasons i dont prefer them. try to cancel and order from newegg


----------



## Warped Trekker

I have the Gen3 board. There is an option for RAID ROM boot or AHCI RAID Driver. How do you create an array when using AHCI RAID driver? Im going to be installing Win8 and need to create the array first.


----------



## bond32

Suddenly having this issue from a cold boot... Since I got this board from a cold boot the video appears and the resolution is 640x800 (normal in bios is 1900). It would continue to boot but if I tried to enter bios from cold boot I couldnt; It would just go to a black screen and hang there. Now from a cold boot it doesn't boot windows. Just the black screen without me trying to enter windows. Any ideas?


----------



## kishagi

Hi Everybody, Ive got a Sabertooth 990FX/GEN3 R2.0.

im having an issue with the CPU LED and no post. I tried updating through the usb thingy, i tried resetting cmos through the battery method, but basically I havent been able to use the board what so ever. Ive tried to Post with a FX-8350 and an 955 BE CPU. is there anything else i could try before I RMA to Newegg?


----------



## bond32

Try different ram if you have it. Also try one stick.


----------



## Ultisym

Is it generating any beep codes?


----------



## kishagi

No beep codes are generated, but everything powers up.

Also thanks bond32, ill try it asap. I just really hope its not my ram. Im planning to add it to my 790i for 16gb.


----------



## Mega Man

one thing that always gets me into bios is using the directkey when it is stuck on posting. ( led is lit ) press and hold till it shuts down then press it to reboot into bios should tell you oc failed.


----------



## shampoo911

still no benchmark numbers for the r2.0 gen3??? come guys...


----------



## DMills

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> still no benchmark numbers for the r2.0 gen3??? come guys...


Not much point in benching this board with an Athlon II cpu still in it









Until next paycheck comes in, an upgraded board is all I've got


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kishagi*
> 
> No beep codes are generated, but everything powers up.
> 
> Also thanks bond32, ill try it asap. I just really hope its not my ram. Im planning to add it to my 790i for 16gb.


Could be CPU power from psu or mobo itself. Had this problem and rma'd to Asus. However, I did not get anything other than the blinking led. No power, no fans, no nothing. I suspect that it was cpu power or vrm related. Unfortunately I did not get a prognosis from Asus when it was returned.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotrod717*
> 
> Could be CPU power from psu or mobo itself. Had this problem and rma'd to Asus. However, I did not get anything other than the blinking led. No power, no fans, no nothing. I suspect that it was cpu power or vrm related. Unfortunately I did not get a prognosis from Asus when it was returned.


sorry man i am lost i dont understand what you are saying


----------



## bond32

Is there any advantage to using the offset mode as opposed to manual mode for voltages?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Is there any advantage to using the offset mode as opposed to manual mode for voltages?


if you use Cnq and all the other poser saving features

then yes ( it will drop volts when not in use )

otherwise no


----------



## winterrr

Hey guys, I have a ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2 and I can't find the serial number anywhere on the board. I know you can find it in the BIOS, but is it normal for it not to be on the board? Can someone confirm this? Thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winterrr*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2 and I can't find the serial number anywhere on the board. I know you can find it in the BIOS, but is it normal for it not to be on the board? Can someone confirm this? Thanks!


it is on the board idr where but it is either on the side of the rear io ports the 24 pin power iirc

if not, it could be on the side of any of the connectors,

edit found this from asus

Parallell port
Side of PCI slot
Side of power connector
Underneath/backside of board
Side of CNR slot


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Is there any advantage to using the offset mode as opposed to manual mode for voltages?


also if you want to keep the turbo feature on.. it allows the offset of voltage to raise when turbo kicks in


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> also if you want to keep the turbo feature on.. it allows the offset of voltage to raise when turbo kicks in


oooo good one !~


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> oooo good one !~


----------



## winterrr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it is on the board idr where but it is either on the side of the rear io ports the 24 pin power iirc
> 
> if not, it could be on the side of any of the connectors,
> 
> edit found this from asus
> 
> Parallell port
> Side of PCI slot
> Side of power connector
> Underneath/backside of board
> Side of CNR slot


Found it! Bottom side of the PCI slot. Thank you! +Rep!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winterrr*
> 
> Found it! Bottom side of the PCI slot. Thank you! +Rep!


no ty!~ i app it


----------



## pastasalad

nothing is or was overclocked

through process of elimination i took 2 sticks of ram out leaving just 2 sticks in and some issues stopped
but my memory worked fine before

it also flagged my card as bad so i rmad the card

and then it flagged my ssd as bad so i replaced that through rma

although most issues are now gone i still get lockups when writting to the asmedia controller my mouse will freeze and stutter

im not sure il be able to rma the board or what is wrong because of a fan header has bent pins ( not badly ) would they replace

seems alot slower then it used to be and any load on my i/o causes freezing and stutters

i just rebooted tried to clear cmos
turned power back on and no post
cpu led is lit

tried again 3-4 times same thing
took out battery nothing lit up but no post
took out power for 10 mins came back it booted perfectly

i think my motherboard is dead cuz i already changed processor psu and ram modules, and graphics to little effect i also think it damaged all my other hardware

i cant reflash im on bios 1604 and it wont let me reflash the same bios

im just gonna give in and get either the ud5 /ud7 or sabertooth r2 this week


----------



## Krusher33

Please add your rig to your sig so that we can see what's all you have.


----------



## pastasalad

It no longer matters i bought a 990fx R2 and crucial ballistix elite 1866 8 gig x2 9-9-9-27


----------



## Krusher33

But what power supply are you using?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastasalad*
> 
> It no longer matters i bought a 990fx R2 and crucial ballistix elite 1866 8 gig x2 9-9-9-27


if i you the same ram kit i do i was able to get 2000mhz at 8 8 7 22 timings


----------



## kishagi

Well ive tried alot of things. None worked, so i gotta go RMA the board back to Newegg. Urgh.

btw 16gb on 790i works tremendously although this has nothing to do with the sabertooth.


----------



## pastasalad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> But what power supply are you using?


Xfx dark pro edition 850 watts
Fx 8350
Crucial ballistix elite 1866 9-9-9-27 8gig x 2
Asus sabertooth 990 fx 1503 bios
Crucial m4 128gig ssd
H80 cooling

My issue was sorted once i got rid of the board

To f3ers
8-8-8-27 and its completely stable? What are your bios settings?
Im betting it is that ram
As soon as i saw it i wanted it
It is a noticable performance jump from my 1333 xms3 9-9-9-24
Such a nice kit i had an issue with my h80 water pipes blocking my first dimm slot so i just moved to the second and forth slot instead

I do wonder lower timings @ 1333 like 7-7-7-24
Or keep at 1866 @ 9-9-9-27

What will give the best performance?

Also i found a usb 3.0 cable to my external hd causing issues i only need to breath in its general direction and it disconnects and reconnects il replace that soon i dont recall it doing that on the first sabertooth

But with my sabertooth version 1 it was dieing not booting or posting lagging freezing chipset errors audio issues,lan errors irq issues you name it ,it happened i think il rma tomorrow as i only had it 6 months


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastasalad*
> 
> Xfx dark pro edition 850 watts
> Fx 8350
> Crucial ballistix elite 1866 9-9-9-27 8gig x 2
> Asus sabertooth 990 fx 1503 bios
> Crucial m4 128gig ssd
> H80 cooling
> 
> My issue was sorted once i got rid of the board
> 
> To f3ers
> 8-8-8-27 and its completely stable? What are your bios settings?
> Im betting it is that ram
> As soon as i saw it i wanted it
> It is a noticable performance jump from my 1333 xms3 9-9-9-24
> Such a nice kit i had an issue with my h80 water pipes blocking my first dimm slot so i just moved to the second and forth slot instead
> 
> I do wonder lower timings @ 1333 like 7-7-7-24
> Or keep at 1866 @ 9-9-9-27
> 
> What will give the best performance?
> 
> Also i found a usb 3.0 cable to my external hd causing issues i only need to breath in its general direction and it disconnects and reconnects il replace that soon i dont recall it doing that on the first sabertooth
> 
> But with my sabertooth version 1 it was dieing not booting or posting lagging freezing chipset errors audio issues,lan errors irq issues you name it ,it happened i think il rma tomorrow as i only had it 6 months


My fsb is at 251 and i bumped the ram multi up by two so stock fsb it hits 1866. Yes stable and i just dropped the timings one by one... I noticed that you want 1600 and up ram speed 1333 is a bottleneck. I would say get as high mhz as you can then drop the timings.. I havent played too much i may be able to get 2133 but there is a balance between frequency and timings..


----------



## pastasalad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> My fsb is at 251 and i bumped the ram multi up by two so stock fsb it hits 1866. Yes stable and i just dropped the timings one by one... I noticed that you want 1600 and up ram speed 1333 is a bottleneck. I would say get as high mhz as you can then drop the timings.. I havent played too much i may be able to get 2133 but there is a balance between frequency and timings..


I tried 1333 @ 7-7-7-24 that went well
I noticed adding some voltage to my cpu/nb will increase performance
But i couldnt tell the difference between [email protected] [email protected] except my bios liked 1333 and didnt drop my ht link like it does if i run at 1866
Usually overclocking my cpu would increase ram and cpu communication but @4ghz at stock i dont want to push it too hard,4.2ghz has no effect on the memory
So i think 4.5 would do the trick

This sabertooth 990fx r2.0 is ok but still get the annoying static realtek sound at shutdown
Also asus support is terrible 2012 was the last time they added any drivers for this board
Im gonna rma my sabertooth 990fx original then keep as spare incase this r2.0 one dies i bought because i figured gigsbyte would be worse some how except that ud7 is really good looking i couldnt find one at my retailer

I still think nvidia chipsets are more stable in comparison

From looking in tigerdirect and newegg it seems to be commin issue with this chipset


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastasalad*
> 
> I tried 1333 @ 7-7-7-24 that went well
> I noticed adding some voltage to my cpu/nb will increase performance
> But i couldnt tell the difference between [email protected] [email protected] except my bios liked 1333 and didnt drop my ht link like it does if i run at 1866
> Usually overclocking my cpu would increase ram and cpu communication but @4ghz at stock i dont want to push it too hard,4.2ghz has no effect on the memory
> So i think 4.5 would do the trick
> 
> This sabertooth 990fx r2.0 is ok but still get the annoying static realtek sound at shutdown
> Also asus support is terrible 2012 was the last time they added any drivers for this board
> Im gonna rma my sabertooth 990fx original then keep as spare incase this r2.0 one dies i bought because i figured gigsbyte would be worse some how except that ud7 is really good looking i couldnt find one at my retailer
> 
> I still think nvidia chipsets are more stable in comparison
> 
> From looking in tigerdirect and newegg it seems to be commin issue with this chipset


the giga boards ud5-ud7 are turning out to be real nice..

Maybe because im used to my chip being oc'd at 5ghz but once you reach i think 4.4 the ram speeds become more apparent. I had patriot 1333 at cas 9 so maybe that was also why i saw the difference.. What Bios are you one cause i have the same revision.

another thing reset the HT to the higher frequency..


----------



## ceaze one

Anyone interested in buying a mint condition Sabertooth 990fx rev 1? I have one that's less than a year old and sitting in it's box collecting dust









Just shoot me a PM if interested.


----------



## Tang87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceaze one*
> 
> Anyone interested in buying a mint condition Sabertooth 990fx rev 1? I have one that's less than a year old and sitting in it's box collecting dust
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just shoot me a PM if interested.


For freeeeeeeee?


----------



## Djmatrix32

Is the PCI-Express 3.0 on the Sabertooth Gen3 R2.0 a gimmick?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djmatrix32*
> 
> Is the PCI-Express 3.0 on the Sabertooth Gen3 R2.0 a gimmick?


no one with one will post any reviews so idk how much improvement you will see.

how ever i will say one thing i have read that seems to make the most since to me is even if the pcie3 is nothing to the cpu >gpu communication. the gpu > gpu bandwidth will still go up due to the 3rd party controller. so if you are on cfx or sli then i can fairly confidently say no. it is not a gimmick

however even asus said they dont feel you can get the 100% out of pcie 3 as you would if it was supported. but they have done the most that they can so that there is.


----------



## Djmatrix32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no one with one will post any reviews so idk how much improvement you will see.
> 
> how ever i will say one thing i have read that seems to make the most since to me is even if the pcie3 is nothing to the cpu >gpu communication. the gpu > gpu bandwidth will still go up due to the 3rd party controller. so if you are on cfx or sli then i can fairly confidently say no. it is not a gimmick
> 
> however even asus said they dont feel you can get the 100% out of pcie 3 as you would if it was supported. but they have done the most that they can so that there is.


I was just wondering on the improvement because I do not see any other AMD board with PCI-Express 3.0 other then that one.


----------



## Mega Man

thats because no others have it XD


----------



## Djmatrix32

Someone in this club should buy a Gen3 R2.0 and test the PCI-Express 3.0 to see if how big the difference is if any.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djmatrix32*
> 
> Someone in this club should buy a Gen3 R2.0 and test the PCI-Express 3.0 to see if how big the difference is if any.


i've been asking for that... but no one seems to have done some tests


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> i've been asking for that... but no one seems to have done some tests


Ill do it... if you buy it for me


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Ill do it... if you buy it for me


hahahaha sure dude..


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Djmatrix32*
> 
> Someone in this club should buy a Gen3 R2.0 and test the PCI-Express 3.0 to see if how big the difference is if any.
> 
> 
> 
> i've been asking for that... but no one seems to have done some tests
Click to expand...

Why are people expecting it to be faster?

I could see it being faster in a triple or quad gpu setup or maybe even just 2 titans but for the very large majority of us I really don't expect this to do anything!

I do like the way it looks a bit more but I still think it is BS that it doesn't have the "armor" or whatever you call it that the Intel boards have.

I am not trying to hate I am just saying slash asking... Why are people expecting it to be faster unless they are utilizing PCIe 3.0 at 8x (yes 8 not 16 it isn't a typo). Also no offense but if I was going to run 3-4 baller cards I wouldn't be doing it on this motherboard I would wait until an uber motherboard that I liked was 3.0.

It is in a way future proofed as in if you own this for 3 years and buy 2 GPUs I am fairly certain at that point maybe you could break into the 3.0 bandwidth.


----------



## pastasalad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> the giga boards ud5-ud7 are turning out to be real nice..
> 
> Maybe because im used to my chip being oc'd at 5ghz but once you reach i think 4.4 the ram speeds become more apparent. I had patriot 1333 at cas 9 so maybe that was also why i saw the difference.. What Bios are you one cause i have the same revision.
> another thing reset the HT to the higher frequency..


im on 1503 bios
i reset ht back to 2600, didnt know that this crucial ballistix also tells you the temperature of each dimm
thats nifty

5ghz, i mean i got a h80 it could be possible but seems out of the comfort zone for me i also doubt il get that just with the multi on its own with more voltage

according to wei

cpu 7.8
ram 7.8
graphics 7.9
graphics 7.9
ssd 7.9
how much would i have to push on my cpu to get both ram and cpu to read 7.9 each
i know that it doesnt matter really but it is annoying


----------



## riscorpian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> i've been asking for that... but no one seems to have done some tests


I have a Gen3, but I haven't been able to do any tests yet. I've looked up benchmarks comparing PCIe 2 & 3 on boards that natively support it, and those show barely any difference at all. I think it averaged around +2fps, and that only showed up at ridiculously high resolutions. I sincerely doubt that we'd see much of any boost in performance on ASUS's improv PCIe3.0 solution. But, on the other hand, I doubt we'd see much of any boost on a truly native solution either. My guess is that the (semi-)noticeable differences will only show up in a tri/quad-fire or 3/4x SLi. I have two overclocked 7970's, but I still don't think that's enough to make a difference. At this point, it seems the performance gain exists almost exclusively on paper.

That being said, I wouldn't mind running some benchmarks. I've been poking around in an effort to find a way to disable PCIe3.0 on this board, but I haven't found anything yet. If anyone can figure out how to do that, please let me know. I don't have another AM3+ board I can use, so I can't get a fair comparison. Too many hardware differences.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastasalad*
> 
> how much would i have to push on my cpu to get both ram and cpu to read 7.9 each
> i know that it doesnt matter really but it is annoying


That depends on your OS. If you're on Win7, I don't think you can. If I remember correctly, 7.9 can only be achieved with a CPU that supports hyperthreading, which ain't gonna happen on an AMD CPU. Now Win8, on the other hand, has a scale that goes up to 9.9 instead. I have 8.2's on everything but the SSD, which seems to be forever trapped at 7.8.

Such a tragedy.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastasalad*
> 
> im on 1503 bios
> i reset ht back to 2600, didnt know that this crucial ballistix also tells you the temperature of each dimm
> thats nifty
> 
> 5ghz, i mean i got a h80 it could be possible but seems out of the comfort zone for me i also doubt il get that just with the multi on its own with more voltage
> 
> according to wei
> 
> cpu 7.8
> ram 7.8
> graphics 7.9
> graphics 7.9
> ssd 7.9
> how much would i have to push on my cpu to get both ram and cpu to read 7.9 each
> i know that it doesnt matter really but it is annoying


what riscorpian said.. and besides we all know that Windows is a great tester







.. more or less its for S&giggles and elitist.. however its all whatev and to be honest I have 5.06 and my cpu is 7.8 and ram @ 2000 with 8 timings gives me 7.9 win7 of course


----------



## pastasalad

yes i am on win7 x64 it seems less speedy since sp1
but i refuse to upgrade, i tried win8 and i didnt like it at all

yeah i know the windows index is laughable at best

wow 5 ghz and still 7.8!!!! so not doable then, im disappointed with that
i bet at 5ghz windows 7 will run as fast as it ever could
what is your vcore
and you got any benchmarks on that ram you can screenshot so i can compare with my current settings

@risc* is that a fx8350 stock clock?
also for a second i liked the look of your screenshot and admired it,but then i remembered seeing it before and
all the annoyances associated with windows 8
i wasnt saying it was tragic just annoying lol

my crucial m4 gets 8.2 last time i was on windows 8 but all my hardware has changed since
so i dont know about the other parts and what they would score on windows 8

im going to sell my rma replaced gigabyte 660ti toc2gd and swap for an amd equivalent which would be? cuz ive never owned a amd graphics card


----------



## riscorpian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastasalad*
> 
> yes i am on win7 x64 it seems less speedy since sp1
> @risc* is that a fx8350 stock clock?
> also for a second i liked the look of your screenshot and admired it,but then i remembered seeing it before and
> all the annoyances associated with windows 8
> i wasnt saying it was tragic just annoying lol


No, that's an 8350 overclocked to 4.75Ghz. At stock, I think it hit 7.9. It scaled up to 8.2 as I got a higher OC though. I'd push it higher, but my H100 doesn't seem to be cooling as well as it should. I'd think I could surpass 5.0 easily.







(I know this question wasn't aimed at me, but just for reference, my CPU voltage is 1.40625)

Also, Win8 isn't really bad or anything, it's just different. Adjusting to the start screen takes some time, but I got used to it pretty easily. I actually tried to use Win7 a few days ago and found myself struggling. I'm just too used to how 8 works.


----------



## pastasalad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riscorpian*
> 
> No, that's an 8350 overclocked to 4.75Ghz. At stock, I think it hit 7.9. It scaled up to 8.2 as I got a higher OC though. I'd push it higher, but my H100 doesn't seem to be cooling as well as it should. I'd think I could surpass 5.0 easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I know this question wasn't aimed at me, but just for reference, my CPU voltage is 1.40625)
> 
> Also, Win8 isn't really bad or anything, it's just different. Adjusting to the start screen takes some time, but I got used to it pretty easily. I actually tried to use Win7 a few days ago and found myself struggling. I'm just too used to how 8 works.


lol you and f3ers must be crazy i mean im all for overclocking but past the 4ghz barrier i guess i wouldnt dare i know its a black edition and i have good cooling but beyond 4.4 ghz id be worried it would die 750 mhz seems normal but so close to 5ghz on this cpu
i would think its beyond sustainable for a year @ that speed or wouldnt we have 5ghz cpus already?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastasalad*
> 
> lol you and f3ers must be crazy i mean im all for overclocking but past the 4ghz barrier i guess i wouldnt dare i know its a black edition and i have good cooling but beyond 4.4 ghz id be worried it would die 750 mhz seems normal but so close to 5ghz on this cpu
> i would think its beyond sustainable for a year @ that speed or wouldnt we have 5ghz cpus already?


5Ghz for the 8350 is the equivalent of 4.4 for the Phenom II's its up there and not every chip can hit it.. however we both have water cooling. I have custom loop Ri has closed but a higher end one. as far as the H80 thats a 4.8-4.9 pushing temps... I think i have a full 27% overclock.

and remember not all architectures are the same.. some architectures work better at slower clocks speeds than faster.. Bulldozer and Piledriver cores thrive on higher clocks and scale linearly till voltage skyrockets.. And i presume that steamroller is going to be the same way


----------



## pastasalad

from looking at your build we dont have the same ram

i have this http://www.crucial.com/store/mpartspecs.aspx?mtbpoid=562C6909A5CA7304


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastasalad*
> 
> from looking at your build we dont have the same ram
> 
> i have this http://www.crucial.com/store/mpartspecs.aspx?mtbpoid=562C6909A5CA7304


I said if.. i didn't look at what you had..


----------



## pastasalad

i never said you did say it i only just saw is all


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastasalad*
> 
> i never said you did say it i only just saw is all


*winces eyes* I see we have entered.... The... . DANGA ZONE!!!

Still same concept applies


----------



## pastasalad

you have lost me completely please explain

from what i saw you was quick to defend but nobody was attacking lol

i only mentioned we didnt have the same ram because all this time i thought we did and i thought it was cool that is all
no more no less

it was only when i figured out what all those icons where at the bottom of your post and clicked them i discovered your rig and hence i mentioned it


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

lol im not defending danga zone was a joke lol . i may have got you mixed up with someone else i was talking ram about and overclocking.. its all gravy

EDIT: anyone know how to override the overvoltage protection?


----------



## asimriz

Hello Wonderful People,

I hope everyone's doing fine. I have the following:

*Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth 990fx v2.0 Bios Version 1503
CPU: AMD FX-8350 @4.4GHz (stable)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
GPU: MSI GTX 670 2GB Power Edition OC (stock settings)
Memory: 8GB Corsair [email protected]
HDD: Seagate Barracuda [email protected] HDD
PSU: XFX Pro 750W Black Edition Full Modular
Casing: Xigmatek Midguard-II Gaming Case
Monitor: Viewsonic VX2370Smh 23inch Gaming LED*
*OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit*

If anyone could kindly let me know if the following info from CPU-Z is correct or if there is anything that requires attention or rectifying, plz do let me know. CHEERS in advance....


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asimriz*
> 
> Hello Wonderful People,
> 
> I hope everyone's doing fine. I have the following:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth 990fx v2.0 Bios Version 1503
> CPU: AMD FX-8350 @4.4GHz (stable)
> CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
> GPU: MSI GTX 670 2GB Power Edition OC (stock settings)
> Memory: 8GB Corsair [email protected]
> HDD: Seagate Barracuda [email protected] HDD
> PSU: XFX Pro 750W Black Edition Full Modular
> Casing: Xigmatek Midguard-II Gaming Case
> Monitor: Viewsonic VX2370Smh 23inch Gaming LED*
> *OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit*
> 
> If anyone could kindly let me know if the following info from CPU-Z is correct or if there is anything that requires attention or rectifying, plz do let me know. CHEERS in advance....


welcome my friend all i can say is fill out a rig in rigbuilder it will help you all over OCN


----------



## asimriz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> welcome my friend all i can say is fill out a rig in rigbuilder it will help you all over OCN


Thanks buddy but errr how do I find this rigbuilder ?







I'm googling it as we speak !

EDIT: FOUND IT !


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asimriz*
> 
> Thanks buddy but errr how do I find this rigbuilder ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm googling it as we speak !
> 
> EDIT: FOUND IT !


i usually pit in in the post but i decided not to this time lol figures next time ill keep doing it


----------



## asimriz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i usually pit in in the post but i decided not to this time lol figures next time ill keep doing it


Ok noobish question but what do I do there ? Just put in my specs & ask a question & wait ? Sorry don't know it works.


----------



## givmedew

on the menu bar that has home, forums, reviews... click on my profile. Scroll way do to your rigs. It is one of or it is the last thing. On the bottom right of that is create new rig. Follow the directions.

After that above your rigs is signature click on edit signature and you can select up to 3 rigs or other things to display.

When asking a question about your rig make sure to note in the post that you are talking about your sig rig and that none of the specs have changed of if they had what changed.


----------



## asimriz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> on the menu bar that has home, forums, reviews... click on my profile. Scroll way do to your rigs. It is one of or it is the last thing. On the bottom right of that is create new rig. Follow the directions.
> 
> After that above your rigs is signature click on edit signature and you can select up to 3 rigs or other things to display.
> 
> When asking a question about your rig make sure to note in the post that you are talking about your sig rig and that none of the specs have changed of if they had what changed.


Cheers buddy !


----------



## Mega Man

yea what he said. that way we know exactly what we are dealing with it is just a bit easier


----------



## asimriz

Hello Again Wonderful People,

Does this look alright ? Am I in the green zone with regards to temperatures ? Thanks in advance !!!


----------



## bond32

Very low temps, that stock?


----------



## asimriz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Very low temps, that stock?


Nope not stock... What's ur opinion ? Am I safe ? And this is at idle, not at heavy load e.g. heavy games etc. Checkout my settings plz:


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asimriz*
> 
> Nope not stock... What's ur opinion ? Am I safe ? And this is at idle, not at heavy load e.g. heavy games etc. Checkout my settings plz:


try lowering vcore a LOT... maybe to 1.44 or 1.4375


----------



## asimriz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> try lowering vcore a LOT... maybe to 1.44 or 1.4375


CHEERS BUDDY !!! Below are my UEFI/BIOS settings. If anyone could have a peek & let me know if everything's ok, I'd be very grateful. Thank you in advance....


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asimriz*
> 
> CHEERS BUDDY !!! Below are my UEFI/BIOS settings. If anyone could have a peek & let me know if everything's ok, I'd be very grateful. Thank you in advance....


you can still lower a bit the vcore... i suggest 1.4375v as it will get you out of the yellow zone... and after you fell and check it is stable enough, you can turn on, all the power saving features (cool and quiet, c6 and stuff... except that APM, you can leave it on AUTO)


----------



## Vlackrs

Anyone with Sabertooth 990FX Gen3/2.0 have the same problem like R1, when you reboot (before bios post)every fan max out in RPM for a few seconds (like 10s)? Cuz my R1 Burned out my Pump (seidon 240m) =(


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlackrs*
> 
> Anyone with Sabertooth 990FX Gen3/2.0 have the same problem like R1, when you reboot (before bios post)every fan max out in RPM for a few seconds (like 10s)? Cuz my R1 Burned out my Pump (seidon 240m) =(


it happens on my r1 only in the gpu's


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> lol im not defending danga zone was a joke lol . i may have got you mixed up with someone else i was talking ram about and overclocking.. its all gravy
> 
> EDIT: anyone know how to override the overvoltage protection?


You mean the warning when trying to take CPU core over 1.6? Its a BIOS setting under monitor, right click the CPU and hit disable. Something to that affect sorry not at my PC at the moment or I would look at it.


----------



## Vlackrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> it happens on my r1 only in the gpu's


I want to know, i'm thinking in RMA it, cuz i'm not happy with this problem, but i dont want the same R1 and i dont like R2.0 =(.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlackrs*
> 
> I want to know, i'm thinking in RMA it, cuz i'm not happy with this problem, but i dont want the same R1 and i dont like R2.0 =(.


it isn't that much of a problem... maybe it happens to all r1's...


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> You mean the warning when trying to take CPU core over 1.6? Its a BIOS setting under monitor, right click the CPU and hit disable. Something to that affect sorry not at my PC at the moment or I would look at it.


Thanks ill check that out
HaHAHA that was it how stupid of me







thanks man!


----------



## Vlackrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> it isn't that much of a problem... maybe it happens to all r1's...


For me, is a problem, killed my Seidon 240 ><, Will be good to know if any R2.0 and Gen3 have the same problem.


----------



## hucklebuck

I have a problem with my SATA ports on this board, at least I think I do. I currently have a DVD writer and a SSD plugged in(Win 7). On occasion I plug in a 2 TB HDD to transfer files to, cause I don't have an external case for it at the moment. But when I plug in the drive and boot up into windows it doesn't get recognized. So I unplug my DVD writer and then windows will see the 2 hard drives and everything works okay. Well today I got all 3 devices to get recognized in windows but after about 20 minutes the 2 TB HDD just disappears and any file writing to it stops cause it can't be found.

Why is it I can only have 2 devices work on my SATA ports with this board? Does anyone else have this problem? Any thoughts or suggestions? I'm all ears.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> You mean the warning when trying to take CPU core over 1.6? Its a BIOS setting under monitor, right click the CPU and hit disable. Something to that affect sorry not at my PC at the moment or I would look at it.


that was making me mad i couldnt get my 5.3ghz stable thanks alot man !~

side note open rant

i just saw a thread where the guy said intel invented x64 cpus..................
it was already closed so i could not set him straight.

/rant

thanks for reading !~


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> that was making me mad i couldnt get my 5.3ghz stable thanks alot man !~
> 
> side note open rant
> 
> i just saw a thread where the guy said intel invented x64 cpus..................
> it was already closed so i could not set him straight.
> 
> /rant
> 
> thanks for reading !~


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Thanks ill check that out
> HaHAHA that was it how stupid of me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks man!


Glad I could help


----------



## master256

My Post for the Owners Club List:


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> I have a problem with my SATA ports on this board, at least I think I do. I currently have a DVD writer and a SSD plugged in(Win 7). On occasion I plug in a 2 TB HDD to transfer files to, cause I don't have an external case for it at the moment. But when I plug in the drive and boot up into windows it doesn't get recognized. So I unplug my DVD writer and then windows will see the 2 hard drives and everything works okay. Well today I got all 3 devices to get recognized in windows but after about 20 minutes the 2 TB HDD just disappears and any file writing to it stops cause it can't be found. Why is it I can only have 2 devices work on my SATA ports with this board? Does anyone else have this problem? Any thoughts or suggestions? I'm all ears.


I have two SSDs on SATA 1-2, two Raptors on SATA 3-4, a BD-RE on SATA 5, and a DVD/RW on SATA 6. The SSDs and the Raptors in separate RAID arrays and the ODDs on IDE in 5-6 on my first generation Sabertooth.

My guess would be loose connections or bad power or data cables.

I have unplugged one or the other array to boot separately into Linux or Win 7 then replugged in with no problems at all.

Good Luck!


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*
> 
> I have two SSDs on SATA 1-2, two Raptors on SATA 3-4, a BD-RE on SATA 5, and a DVD/RW on SATA 6. The SSDs and the Raptors in separate RAID arrays and the ODDs on IDE in 5-6 on my first generation Sabertooth.
> 
> My guess would be loose connections or bad power or data cables.
> 
> I have unplugged one or the other array to boot separately into Linux or Win 7 then replugged in with no problems at all.
> 
> Good Luck!


Well here is a few snapshots of the bios.








Is there some kind of AHCI driver for this board that I need to install?
What I would like to have is 1 SSD Windows 7, 1 SSD Linux, 1 DVD writer or Bluray.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Well here is a few snapshots of the bios.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there some kind of AHCI driver for this board that I need to install?
> What I would like to have is 1 SSD Windows 7, 1 SSD Linux, 1 DVD writer or Bluray.


assuming you are running win7 or 8 use the windows one


----------



## Krusher33

How much amps or watts can each of the fan headers handle? So far all I found was what's in the manual and it said the CPU_Fan can handle a max 1 amp or 12 watts. What about the other ones?

I have 8 fans currently that may become 12 in the future. I want to control them. I'm having a hard time finding controllers that I can afford ($20 or less). They're just .13 amp fans.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> How much amps or watts can each of the fan headers handle? So far all I found was what's in the manual and it said the CPU_Fan can handle a max 1 amp or 12 watts. What about the other ones?
> 
> I have 8 fans currently that may become 12 in the future. I want to control them. I'm having a hard time finding controllers that I can afford ($20 or less). They're just .13 amp fans.


What fans do you have?

Are they PWM? PWM can be controlled from the motherboard without the motherboard supplying the voltage to the fan. Also you can control many fans from one PWM signal. 12v is supplied from molex to all the fans. A single RPM from 1 of any of the fans is fed to the motherboard. The PWM signal from the motherboard goes to all the fans. The PWM signal is a % so it doesn't matter if the fans are not all the same. For example I have 5 CoolerMaster Xcaliburs and a MCP-35x Pump hooked up to my motherboards CPU header. I could choose to use the pump RPM wire or one of the fan RPM wires it doesn't really matter. For me I want to see the pump RPM so I use that...

If you want to control that many fans and they are not PWM then I would recommend selling them and buying ether a bunch of CoolMaster BladeMasters or The Dell/Delta AFC1212DE P/N MJ989. You will have to re-terminate the end of the Delta fan I would recommend using both a molex and a 4 pin to terminate it. 12v +/- to the molex and RPM/PWM to the 4-pin.

Both the Delta and the BladeMaster should be available for around $10. The Delta is kind of an eBay only thing at that price. The Delta is capable of around 4000RPM and 200CFM it is perfectly quiet at low RPMs thanks to it's PWM ability.

They sell PWM splitters that go up to 5 devices on ebay or performance-pcs.com


----------



## Krusher33

The fans are PWM with the PWM wire separate. I'm having a "why didn't I think of that?" moment right now. Thanks!

And I wish I could get those fans. I can't afford $10 a fan right now though. The ones I have are just $4 a fan and they're doing fine for the job.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> The fans are PWM with the PWM wire separate. I'm having a "why didn't I think of that?" moment right now. Thanks!
> 
> And I wish I could get those fans. I can't afford $10 a fan right now though. The ones I have are just $4 a fan and they're doing fine for the job.


Where did you get PWM fans for $4 please link!

Edit

How many wires in total do you have? PWM has 4 most fans that have a separate wire are not PWM they are normal fans and the separate wire is RPM.

If they have molex and a 4 pin connector and are indeed PWM the 4 pin would have 2 wires on it. If it is a 3 pin with 1 wire it is not PWM.

--

You can purchase a fan controller that takes the PWM signal and uses it to control 4 or 5 normal fans. You would need at least 2 of these though and that would cost just as much as buying all new fans.


----------



## DeviloftheHell

anyone have an idea for the cause of random crashes? it simply freezes without any blue screen or restart, windows or hardware?, everything is mostly at stock settings in bios, well bewlow 55 celius the highest temp on the motherboard, the southbridge undre the stupid ati ref cooler was a bit hot but i solved it with a fan blowing right at it(hangs in the air via 2.5mm solid copper wire) nothing else feels warm to touch psu is not dropping as far i can measure with it via a fluke 289 logging meter, crash is not dependent on time or load, sometimes crashes at startup sometimes after 10-12 hours of runtime game, cad render etc


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviloftheHell*
> 
> anyone have an idea for the cause of random crashes? it simply freezes without any blue screen or restart, windows or hardware?, everything is mostly at stock settings in bios, well bewlow 55 celius the highest temp on the motherboard, the southbridge undre the stupid ati ref cooler was a bit hot but i solved it with a fan blowing right at it(hangs in the air via 2.5mm solid copper wire) nothing else feels warm to touch psu is not dropping as far i can measure with it via a fluke 289 logging meter, crash is not dependent on time or load, sometimes crashes at startup sometimes after 10-12 hours of runtime game, cad render etc


Are you using anything but the lowest LLC setting? If you are using the higher settings then find out what your core voltage is under load then lower the LLC to off or the lowest on setting (medium I think) then adjust CPU offset voltage till the cpu core voltage is what it was before when under load.

You may be having part throttle instability which is caused by not enough core voltage at those partial loads. If you used high LLC settings to obtain your stable load voltage this can def be the problem.

You can also disable your C states for the time being (obviously turn them back on once you figure out what is going on).

Tons of other things could be going on here.

You also need to check what you error codes are in windows. If you don't know how then google it. They are called bsod codes as well.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> The fans are PWM with the PWM wire separate. I'm having a "why didn't I think of that?" moment right now. Thanks!
> 
> And I wish I could get those fans. I can't afford $10 a fan right now though. The ones I have are just $4 a fan and they're doing fine for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you get PWM fans for $4 please link!
> 
> Edit
> 
> How many wires in total do you have? PWM has 4 most fans that have a separate wire are not PWM they are normal fans and the separate wire is RPM.
> 
> If they have molex and a 4 pin connector and are indeed PWM the 4 pin would have 2 wires on it. If it is a 3 pin with 1 wire it is not PWM.
> 
> --
> 
> You can purchase a fan controller that takes the PWM signal and uses it to control 4 or 5 normal fans. You would need at least 2 of these though and that would cost just as much as buying all new fans.
Click to expand...

They're the Arctic Cooling F12 fans. I know they're "you get what you paid for" but they're getting the job done in push/pull and my goal was white fans that I can afford. They're doing just as well as my loud Panaflo 38mm fans were doing in fact (push only though). I'm thinking of selling my Panaflos and some other fans I'm not using to be able to purchase some other fans.

They're 4 pins connectors and then they have an extra wire coming from the 4th pin. They're rather short though. So I'm going to have to decide whether I want to splice a wire to make it longer or just make an extension for it.

http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=24331&vpn=AFACO-120P0-GBA01&manufacture=Arctic%20Cooling (ignore the specs saying they're 38mm... they're actually 25mm)


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Is there some kind of AHCI driver for this board that I need to install?
> What I would like to have is 1 SSD Windows 7, 1 SSD Linux, 1 DVD writer or Bluray.


Yes, there is an AHCI driver, put it on a USB stick and direct windows to it during install. You can download it from the Asus support site. or use your driver disc.

I recommend setting SATA 5-6 on IDE and hook up the DVD or Bluray drive to one of those. (I have a DVD/RW and a BD/RE hooked to SATA 5 & 6) Your second snapshot shows the settings, just click to change from AHCI to IDE for SATA Port5 - Port6.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviloftheHell*
> 
> anyone have an idea for the cause of random crashes? it simply freezes without any blue screen or restart, windows or hardware?, everything is mostly at stock settings in bios, well bewlow 55 celius the highest temp on the motherboard, the southbridge undre the stupid ati ref cooler was a bit hot but i solved it with a fan blowing right at it(hangs in the air via 2.5mm solid copper wire) nothing else feels warm to touch psu is not dropping as far i can measure with it via a fluke 289 logging meter, crash is not dependent on time or load, sometimes crashes at startup sometimes after 10-12 hours of runtime game, cad render etc


your not giving us much info, did you oc? what are your bios settings if you did. what kind of ram are you using ? did you manually input the speeds/ volts?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Are you using anything but the lowest LLC setting? If you are using the higher settings then find out what your core voltage is under load then lower the LLC to off or the lowest on setting (medium I think) then adjust CPU offset voltage till the cpu core voltage is what it was before when under load.
> 
> You may be having part throttle instability which is caused by not enough core voltage at those partial loads. If you used high LLC settings to obtain your stable load voltage this can def be the problem.
> 
> You can also disable your C states for the time being (obviously turn them back on once you figure out what is going on).
> 
> Tons of other things could be going on here.
> 
> You also need to check what you error codes are in windows. If you don't know how then google it. They are called bsod codes as well.


how do you even know what the problem is when as far as i have seen he has given us about 0 info on his problem?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*
> 
> Yes, there is an AHCI driver, put it on a USB stick and direct windows to it during install. You can download it from the Asus support site. or use your driver disc.
> 
> I recommend setting SATA 5-6 on IDE and hook up the DVD or Bluray drive to one of those. (I have a DVD/RW and a BD/RE hooked to SATA 5 & 6) Your second snapshot shows the settings, just click to change from AHCI to IDE for SATA Port5 - Port6.


i would recommend using windows drivers as i have heard MULTIPLE reports of asus drivers causing issues


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*
> 
> Yes, there is an AHCI driver, put it on a USB stick and direct windows to it during install. You can download it from the Asus support site. or use your driver disc.
> 
> I recommend setting SATA 5-6 on IDE and hook up the DVD or Bluray drive to one of those. (I have a DVD/RW and a BD/RE hooked to SATA 5 & 6) Your second snapshot shows the settings, just click to change from AHCI to IDE for SATA Port5 - Port6.


I

I'm gonna try that when I open the PC again. Sounds like it will work. Thanks.


----------



## Cores

I'll be picking up this board with an 8320 in August. Just wondering, am I covered by warranty in the rare event that something goes wrong while updating BIOS?


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fegelein*
> 
> I'll be picking up this board with an 8320 in August. Just wondering, am I covered by warranty in the rare event that something goes wrong while updating BIOS?


If you end up with a corrupt bios just RMA it and say that your computer won't start... That's what I did when I corrupt my bios chip. They replaced it under warranty


----------



## Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceaze one*
> 
> If you end up with a corrupt bios just RMA it and say that your computer won't start... That's what I did when I corrupt my bios chip. They replaced it under warranty


Will do.


----------



## DeviloftheHell

only c1 state is enabled, voltage settings at manual mode and everything is on auto except the ram voltage, rams are 4x8gb geil evo veloce 1866mhz this checks fine, there is no bsod error code cos the whole thing just freezes as i wrote no bsod or automatic restart. all digi power options are on stock settings auto etc , clocks are on stock too, it crashes on auto crashes on the lowest setting and crashes on exrteme too, after i put the whole thing together without installing a new windows after the ch4f and the 1090t. it was stable for a week. apm and hpc is disabled too qnq is enabled. when i stress test the system with the aida stability test or with ibt for an hour it didnt crash, sometimes crashes at startup after all programs loaded in which start automatically.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fegelein*
> 
> I'll be picking up this board with an 8320 in August. Just wondering, am I covered by warranty in the rare event that something goes wrong while updating BIOS?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceaze one*
> 
> If you end up with a corrupt bios just RMA it and say that your computer won't start... That's what I did when I corrupt my bios chip. They replaced it under warranty


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fegelein*
> 
> Will do.


besides the fact that is considered fraud

you should not have4 any problems i have corrupted my bios while ocing and have always recovered. you dont need a cpu in this board to update bios. you just download the file on a fat32 usb put it in the correct usb and press the button wait for it to stay lit then power on and bios is updated.


----------



## hotrod717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> How much amps or watts can each of the fan headers handle? So far all I found was what's in the manual and it said the CPU_Fan can handle a max 1 amp or 12 watts. What about the other ones?
> 
> I have 8 fans currently that may become 12 in the future. I want to control them. I'm having a hard time finding controllers that I can afford ($20 or less). They're just .13 amp fans.


Performance PC's has some clearance controllers for under $10. Sunbeam Rheostat 4 channel, 30 watts I believe.


----------



## DeviloftheHell

well tried to install a fresh win7 ultimate as a possible fix for my lockup/crash problem, well the damn thing hangs up at gpu performance test at first start and never goes trough not even in half hour. its doing something on the ssd continuously. tried it with sp1 and without it in the install disk. both do the same... another intresting thing i managed to take down the core voltage to 1.25volts during full load. ibt avx running on max and in the same time aida fpu+cpu stability test. now i tried to compensate by adding 20mv plus on top of the cpu but not even in bios shows higher than 1.344 and its set to 1.365


----------



## Mega Man

sounds like instability to me maybe your gpus are going out ?


----------



## DeviloftheHell

well if anything else, it handles without a glitch half hour furmark test. both bios works. i used acronis to put back in a clean working install from january what was on the ch4f before. started up just fine and i know that install had no problem for 3 months. so i will see its hardware or software again. my g73jh laptop does the same lockup atm as my desktop did but i bet the laptop just simply overheats again. its impossbile to dust if off without taking it apart which is pain in the ass. the gpu btw runs around 7-80celsius during gaming and around 55-60celsius. i dont think it would kill it in 2 years stock cooler sucks. but i never seen the windows hang up on a performance test at first startup. i will try to get some other win7 disk maybe mine is corrupted somehow. its a 6970 2gb ati card btw. on 1 of the 2 bios on this card 1 is modified in the fan profiles which seemed like not working 2 months ago it didnt adjust the speed as i set it never went over 30% fan speed but switched to that bios it was spinning the fan up to max then go back to idle speeds and it repated this every 5 sec. during the 6 hours of trials today to install a damn fresh windows 7


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviloftheHell*
> 
> well if anything else, it handles without a glitch half hour furmark test. both bios works. i used acronis to put back in a clean working install from january what was on the ch4f before. started up just fine and i know that install had no problem for 3 months. so i will see its hardware or software again. my g73jh laptop does the same lockup atm as my desktop did but i bet the laptop just simply overheats again. its impossbile to dust if off without taking it apart which is pain in the ass. the gpu btw runs around 7-80celsius during gaming and around 55-60celsius. i dont think it would kill it in 2 years stock cooler sucks. but i never seen the windows hang up on a performance test at first startup. i will try to get some other win7 disk maybe mine is corrupted somehow. its a 6970 2gb ati card btw. on 1 of the 2 bios on this card 1 is modified in the fan profiles which seemed like not working 2 months ago it didnt adjust the speed as i set it never went over 30% fan speed but switched to that bios it was spinning the fan up to max then go back to idle speeds and it repated this every 5 sec. during the 6 hours of trials today to install a damn fresh windows 7


i may see the prob now. i would recommend trying a new psu your brand is not that well known that i can find

great reads

http://www.overclock.net/t/715889/psu-articles/0_100#post9110838

i would try another PSU in there. as psu ages they put out less power ( caps are aging ) that is just my 2cents though

please note i did not say run out and buy a new one now.!~ see if your friends have one you can borrow or something. at least it would know psu off the list

also your gpu may be going bad idk hard to do this over the net sorry .


----------



## shampoo911

i once had a problem like that... freaked out... then made a clean install of the gpu drivers... problem solved...


----------



## Mega Man

new bios out for the r2.0

gonna see if it helps meh at all on ocing @~

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R20/#support_Download_36


----------



## DeviloftheHell

i dont have a scope to check for ripple on the psu but if its not crashing during full load then i would rule it out. it crashed on that 4month old install randomly even when the thing was fully idle. as for the clean install there is no driver there unless you manage to install one without the first boot







. btw new seasonic x1050 psu is on the list but i have other priorities now


----------



## Dromihetes

Guys ,does it worth it to sell my 970A-UD3 + FX 4100 + ATI 4850 to get the Sabertooth version 2.0 or it costs to much for what it is ?!

Does it have proper BIOS support as with Gigabyte i am unsatisfied ?!


----------



## DeviloftheHell

updated the bios will se what changed. put in another gpu a small nvidia card. the fresh install passed the first test and didng hang on them with it but the only time when the memory was set to 1600mhz not 1866mhz. with my card put back at first it started and passed but for the second time it didnt. what the hell is the windows looking? i tested 4-5 times on another ssd to rule out the problems with it. the ati card i have starts up fine with a fresh install on the other intel machine. when i have more patience for this i wil ltry to integrate the gpu driver and chipset drivers into a windows install then try again. until than this acronis image works just fine didnt crash for 16 hours which was not possible before the last install i had on it


----------



## Mega Man

how many sticks of ram ? what speed are they rated for ? what timings are you running them at


----------



## DeviloftheHell

http://www.geil.com.tw/products/show/id/371 GEV332GB1866C9QC
4 sticks 4x8gb their original speed which is the base speed of the chips is 1600mhz on the first xmp profile its 1866 whats supposed to be the rated speeds of these geil modules
@ 933 MHz 9-10-9-28 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS) / 48-282-2-8-14-7-7-35 (RC-RFC-CR-RRD-WR-WTR-RTP-FAW)
@ 800 MHz 11-11-11-28 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS) / 39-208-5-12-6-6-24 (RC-RFC-RRD-WR-WTR-RTP-FAW)
but it runs without any issue apart from this idiotic windows install problem i so hate poorly written software. 1 full run of memtest gone trough without error on 2 different boards and in this on the rated speeds.

(odd thing the memtest recognize them as 1600 even set to the xmp profile, while its recognized as 1866mhz in a p8p57 pro intel board which died 2 hours ago, first of that board died and took out the psu too 2 years ago. this time the psu survived)


----------



## Mega Man

that maybe your problem
your cpu is only rated to run 2 sticks of 1866

not all cpus will be able to go over that. but i am also guessing you did not give your cpu/nb ( assuming you have a amd ) a small voltage boost ( ~.1-.2v) you want your cpu nb to be ~ 1.2v some like it has high as 1.3 this is just an average yours may take more/less)


----------



## DeviloftheHell

its default to 1.2v for me if i raise it to 1.25 the cpu temps are 4celsius higher its the only difference what i see.. however its rated as a footnote but it utilize the full 32gigs of it. solidworks simulation made that sure for the system. i had no problem regarding the memory speeds until that install problem.


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> your cpu is only rated to run 2 sticks of 1866


What do you mean by this comment?

His sig rig shows an FX8350, I have the same in a Rev 1 Sabertooth and have had 4 sticks running at 1866 for over a year.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*
> 
> What do you mean by this comment?
> 
> His sig rig shows an FX8350, I have the same in a Rev 1 Sabertooth and have had 4 sticks running at 1866 for over a year.


i mean exactly what i said. visharas and bulldozers are rated to run 1866 in 2 dims and 1600 in all 4.

again this is rated from AMD does not mean you cant run more. i know i am stable @ 2400 in 2 dimms and i think i am finally stable @ 4 dimms but i have yet to have time to verify the stability. i have even got mine to 2500.

some cpus can take more some less it is an OC of the memory controller so you are at the mercy of the silicone lottery.

your psu going out could of affected your memory controller, psus are no fun when they go out as they can take anything out with them.i would try raising either llc or voltage on your CPU/nb and check stability you should not need more then 1.3v most above that will create alot more heat.

it is rated to 1.45 on air but really it just adds a ton of heat. you may need to increase volts to your ram. i am shooting in the dark here without more details, so bear with me. SS of your bios would help the best.


----------



## Ticklemehballlz

I have had mine for over a year now and I love it to bits!


----------



## CasperGS




----------



## Pill Monster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dromihetes*
> 
> Guys ,does it worth it to sell my 970A-UD3 + FX 4100 + ATI 4850 to get the Sabertooth version 2.0 or it costs to much for what it is ?!
> 
> Does it have proper BIOS support as with Gigabyte i am unsatisfied ?!


I don't think it's worth it if you already have a 970.


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i mean exactly what i said. visharas and bulldozers are rated to run 1866 in 2 dims and 1600 in all 4.


I didn't know that, but I am glad mine has had no trouble with 4 DIMMS at 1866. Thanks for the info.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*
> 
> I didn't know that, but I am glad mine has had no trouble with 4 DIMMS at 1866. Thanks for the info.


np i was not trying to sound snooty if i was i am sorry. i can show you proof later if you want i just am in a hurry due to work atm and at the time i wrote that.


----------



## Mellifleur

love my board









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2573007


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mellifleur*
> 
> love my board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2573007


welcome


----------



## Dromihetes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pill Monster*
> 
> I don't think it's worth it if you already have a 970.


I have the first version from Gigabyte ,which has all kinds of annoying stuff.
Lacks LLC has long boot time ,drivers than are not detecting the HW id-s on the SB and so on ,on short it disappointed me in many aspects.

I intend getting a FX 6300 and i am not sure the 970 is able to deliver ,i could get only 4,1Ghz out of the FX 4100 on it anyway and the NB would not go upper than stock.

I had in the past a MSI K9A2 Platinum based on the flagship chipset and i liked it i could go 250 FSB with no problem.

You somehow hammered me now as cheaper boards for AM3+ are not a choice


----------



## pastasalad

can anyone help me with this issue


----------



## Nightykk

Greetings!

I recently just acquired SLI Graphics for my Sabertooth. That sadly meant that the second card removed access to the PCI port, which meant I had to unplug my lovely X-Fi Platinum Fatal1ty Champion. I tried the onboard sound, after a day of that I.. Let's just say I believe it did harmful things to my ears.

From what I read Port 1-3-4 is x16, and Port 2 is x4, with dual-SLI you'd have 16x 16x, and with Triple 16x 8x 8x.. And so forth.

Anyways, from what I read they tell you to use Port 1 + 3 for Dual SLI. But I was wondering if it's possible to use 1 + 4 for it instead? If I find a longer SLI cable that is. Or would that cause some weird slowdown like 16x + 8x or some such?

_Alternatively I've looked at a PCIe and PCI extender, but that'd get kinda messy, also for the PCI port the graphic card would even block access for a thin cable there._

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Phaethon666

Hello all,

I am having some serious problems getting my Fx8350 working with my Saberkitty R2.0

I purchased an Asus Sabertooth 990fx R2.0 back in December along with G.skill Sniper 1866 cl9-10-9-28s 8gb modules x2 (16gb)
and the AMD Fx8350. I could not get the system to boot into windows, so I returned the Motherboard and CPU and bought the same models again. Eventually I got my system to boot into windows and had about 4 and a half months of the system operating, it was BSODing every hour and a half of gaming the entire time.

I got tired of the BSoding so I tried adjusting some voltages and I now can only get windows to boot for about 20 seconds before it restarts.

My local computer guy said it could be that my CPU is faulty, but I think the issue lies somewhere in the G.skill memory.

I am writing you guys to see what memory has proven to work with my CPU and Motherboard that can handle 16gbs of DDR3 1866 and boot and perform with good stability.

I had some help on the G.skill forum from Tradesman, but in the end I am just tired of using memory that is such a hassle to tune.

1. What memory should I get?

2. How hard is it to set said compatible memory up?

I would really appreciate any suggestions on memory and Help on setup you guys can give!

Thanks in Advance,

Phaethon

PS. The memory I own is not listed on the supported vendors list. I see alot of people using 4x4gb setups to get to 16 gb of memory instead of 2x8gbs, is there a reason for this?


----------



## Tater00nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaethon666*
> 
> I see alot of people using 4x4gb setups to get to 16 gb of memory instead of 2x8gbs, is there a reason for this?


Better timing on the 4GB sticks. Unfortunately I don't have any words of wisdom to help you get your rig going though I'm sure the other members will have some ideas. Best of luck


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightykk*
> 
> Greetings!
> 
> I recently just acquired SLI Graphics for my Sabertooth. That sadly meant that the second card removed access to the PCI port, which meant I had to unplug my lovely X-Fi Platinum Fatal1ty Champion. I tried the onboard sound, after a day of that I.. Let's just say I believe it did harmful things to my ears.
> 
> From what I read Port 1-3-4 is x16, and Port 2 is x4, with dual-SLI you'd have 16x 16x, and with Triple 16x 8x 8x.. And so forth.
> 
> Anyways, from what I read they tell you to use Port 1 + 3 for Dual SLI. But I was wondering if it's possible to use 1 + 4 for it instead? If I find a longer SLI cable that is. Or would that cause some weird slowdown like 16x + 8x or some such?
> 
> _Alternatively I've looked at a PCIe and PCI extender, but that'd get kinda messy, also for the PCI port the graphic card would even block access for a thin cable there._
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I don't understand... why can't you use the sound card anymore? If the card is PCIe x1 or x4, they also work in the x8/16 slots. If you're talking about a PCI card, is the 2nd card going to take up 3 slots?


----------



## Nightykk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I don't understand... why can't you use the sound card anymore? If the card is PCIe x1 or x4, they also work in the x8/16 slots. If you're talking about a PCI card, is the 2nd card going to take up 3 slots?


It's a regular PCI card, not a PCIe.
The regular PCI port is just under PCIe (x16), which the cooler from the second graphic card blocks.

Ports:
PCIe (x16) -- Graphic Card #1
PCIe (x1) -- Blocked
PCIe (x4) -- Nothing
PCIe (x16) -- Graphic Card #2
PCI -- Blocked
PCIe (x16) -- Nothing

So my question is simply: If I manage to find a SLI cable long enough, would it be possible to run SLI from Port 1 + 4, at x16?
Which would give me the PCI port for my X-Fi.


----------



## Krusher33

Right, I had to look at picture to refresh my memory.

What card are we talking about again?

If you do the 2nd x16 slot and the bottom x8 slot, it would run at x8/x8. If you have like a 660 or something I don't think you'll lose much performance.

I just don't think you're going to find a bridge long enough to go from the top slot to the bottom one but I could be wrong.


----------



## Nightykk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Right, I had to look at picture to refresh my memory.
> 
> What card are we talking about again?
> 
> If you do the 2nd x16 slot and the bottom x8 slot, it would run at x8/x8. If you have like a 660 or something I don't think you'll lose much performance.
> 
> I just don't think you're going to find a bridge long enough to go from the top slot to the bottom one but I could be wrong.


I've seen some 12cm ones on eBay, they should do I believe.
It's 2x 560Ti's, but if I do Slot 1 + Slot 4, they'd run at x8 + x8?

I did buy this Sound Blaster Z PCIe card, which I threw in my bottom slot.. But, I'm not quite pleased with it, and most of all I want to return to the old one.
Might be something I just need to get used to, but my music still just sounds wrong.


----------



## Krusher33

Slot 1 and 4 would be 16 + 8.

The black slot will be x4 if SLI'd.

In other words, afik... slot 1 is the only one that would run at x16 if dual cards are used. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong though.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightykk*
> 
> Greetings!
> 
> I recently just acquired SLI Graphics for my Sabertooth. That sadly meant that the second card removed access to the PCI port, which meant I had to unplug my lovely X-Fi Platinum Fatal1ty Champion. I tried the onboard sound, after a day of that I.. Let's just say I believe it did harmful things to my ears.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> From what I read Port 1-3-4 is x16, and Port 2 is x4, with dual-SLI you'd have 16x 16x, and with Triple 16x 8x 8x.. And so forth.
> 
> Anyways, from what I read they tell you to use Port 1 + 3 for Dual SLI. But I was wondering if it's possible to use 1 + 4 for it instead? If I find a longer SLI cable that is. Or would that cause some weird slowdown like 16x + 8x or some such?
> 
> _Alternatively I've looked at a PCIe and PCI extender, but that'd get kinda messy, also for the PCI port the graphic card would even block access for a thin cable there._
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> 
> .


sounds like you know all the options. except waterblocks.... both my 7970s are single slots !~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaethon666*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I am having some serious problems getting my Fx8350 working with my Saberkitty R2.0
> 
> I purchased an Asus Sabertooth 990fx R2.0 back in December along with G.skill Sniper 1866 cl9-10-9-28s 8gb modules x2 (16gb)
> and the AMD Fx8350. I could not get the system to boot into windows, so I returned the Motherboard and CPU and bought the same models again. Eventually I got my system to boot into windows and had about 4 and a half months of the system operating, it was BSODing every hour and a half of gaming the entire time.
> 
> I got tired of the BSoding so I tried adjusting some voltages and I now can only get windows to boot for about 20 seconds before it restarts.
> 
> My local computer guy said it could be that my CPU is faulty, but I think the issue lies somewhere in the G.skill memory.
> 
> I am writing you guys to see what memory has proven to work with my CPU and Motherboard that can handle 16gbs of DDR3 1866 and boot and perform with good stability.
> 
> I had some help on the G.skill forum from Tradesman, but in the end I am just tired of using memory that is such a hassle to tune.
> 
> 1. What memory should I get?
> 
> 2. How hard is it to set said compatible memory up?
> 
> I would really appreciate any suggestions on memory and Help on setup you guys can give!
> 
> Thanks in Advance,
> 
> Phaethon
> 
> 
> PS. The memory I own is not listed on the supported vendors list. I see alot of people using 4x4gb setups to get to 16 gb of memory instead of 2x8gbs, is there a reason for this?


i think 8gb sticks are relatively new as well. i use gskill 2400 and have no problems. sounds to me like you have either unstable oc or bad stick.

have you set voltage as needed and timings ?

if you have i would try to test the mem sticks
if not gskill are great. just get a brand name ram set you like ( big names )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightykk*
> 
> It's a regular PCI card, not a PCIe.
> The regular PCI port is just under PCIe (x16), which the cooler from the second graphic card blocks.
> 
> Ports:
> PCIe (x16) -- Graphic Card #1
> PCIe (x1) -- Blocked
> PCIe (x4) -- Nothing
> PCIe (x16) -- Graphic Card #2
> PCI -- Blocked
> PCIe (x16) -- Nothing
> 
> So my question is simply: If I manage to find a SLI cable long enough, would it be possible to run SLI from Port 1 + 4, at x16?
> Which would give me the PCI port for my X-Fi.


i do think it would be 8x 8x


----------



## Phaethon666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sounds like you know all the options. except waterblocks.... both my 7970s are single slots !~
> i think 8gb sticks are relatively new as well. i use gskill 2400 and have no problems. sounds to me like you have either unstable oc or bad stick.
> 
> Thanks for the reply, are you 2400s running from an xmp? What sort of settings other than timings, voltage, ecc, channel settings did you use?
> 
> I had my system going for 4 months, and other thant the random bsods caused by an atitskmdag.sys issue the system ran fine. I kinda wish I could find some sticks that I can simply plug in that work fast and have some stability :-/
> 
> have you set voltage as needed and timings ?
> 
> I set the Voltage for the cpu/nb at 1.300000V and the current ddr3s at 1.55000V (Stock is 1.500000)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaethon666*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sounds like you know all the options. except waterblocks.... both my 7970s are single slots !~
> i think 8gb sticks are relatively new as well. i use gskill 2400 and have no problems. sounds to me like you have either unstable oc or bad stick.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply, are you 2400s running from an xmp? What sort of settings other than timings, voltage, ecc, channel settings did you use?
> 
> I had my system going for 4 months, and other thant the random bsods caused by an atitskmdag.sys issue the system ran fine. I kinda wish I could find some sticks that I can simply plug in that work fast and have some stability :-/
> 
> have you set voltage as needed and timings ?
> 
> I set the Voltage for the cpu/nb at 1.300000V and the current ddr3s at 1.55000V (Stock is 1.500000)
Click to expand...

10-12-12-31-43 350ns
1.65v
1.33vddr ( due to the high dram volts)
cpu nb @ 1.3v extreme llc @ 2600
4 dims are not quite stable yet. but getting close ( think i need more vcore to be 100% prime stable. have not had the time to play with it .. ) but i am stable on prime for 10+ hours...

here is my kits ( i have 2 )

all other timings at stock


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1.33vddr ( due to the high dram volts)











I have never messed with that... I wonder if I should...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have never messed with that... I wonder if I should...


only seemed to help with getting 4 dims more stable.
it is definitely more stable with that. but i am not quite sure if it is 100% @ 2 dimms i am fine at stock. i know others that can take 4 dimms np @ 2400 and others who just cant take it ( visharas )


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah I was wanting to add my other 2 sticks but the OC died on me. Could only run at stock and I couldn't live with that.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

other option is get 2133 and overclock them to 2400 and hope you can drop your timings.. with this board I ended up being able to get 2166 with cas 8 timing produces about the same benches of a pair of 2400 at looser timing.

Also check into the advanced dram section I can't remember what it is called atm however I adjusted a lot of things to 2x and got better stability that way as well.. not sure of that changing the resistance does yet though


----------



## Nightykk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sounds like you know all the options. except waterblocks.... both my 7970s are single slots !~
> 
> i do think it would be 8x 8x


Yah, another option would indeed be water cooling on them, but uhm. Let's just say that except for my h100 on the CPU (which really took me a damned long time to dare trying), I'm not really thrilled about water in my computer / waterphobia when it comes to that? ^^
I've always wanted like a backup when it comes to my cooling, for CPU coolers I've always had a cooler with 2 fans, like my old Cooler Master Gemin II, or Mugen 2 and so on. But they just got bigger and bigger, and started creating hotspots on the motherboard cause of killing the airflow over the board, like I had a major one between the Mugen 2 and my graphic card that I wanted to get rid off, that's where the h100 came in.

How sure are you about 8x 8x, and also, any of you got any clues how it'd affect performance going from 16x 16x, to 16x + 8x, or 8x + 8x?

Current looks:

Next up is a new PSU with 4 PCI'e cables so I can kill those molex converters.
(Corsair AX760 or 860)


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> other option is get 2133 and overclock them to 2400 and hope you can drop your timings.. with this board I ended up being able to get 2166 with cas 8 timing produces about the same benches of a pair of 2400 at looser timing.
> 
> Also check into the advanced dram section I can't remember what it is called atm however I adjusted a lot of things to 2x and got better stability that way as well.. not sure of that changing the resistance does yet though


Are you thinking 1T/2T? Or something else.

It has crossed my mind to try to sell my current RAM but... it would shut down my main rig till I can afford a replacement. Not sure I want to go through that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightykk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sounds like you know all the options. except waterblocks.... both my 7970s are single slots !~
> 
> i do think it would be 8x 8x
> 
> 
> 
> Yah, another option would indeed be water cooling on them, but uhm. Let's just say that except for my h100 on the CPU (which really took me a damned long time to dare trying), I'm not really thrilled about water in my computer / waterphobia when it comes to that? ^^
> I've always wanted like a backup when it comes to my cooling, for CPU coolers I've always had a cooler with 2 fans, like my old Cooler Master Gemin II, or Mugen 2 and so on. But they just got bigger and bigger, and started creating hotspots on the motherboard cause of killing the airflow over the board, like I had a major one between the Mugen 2 and my graphic card that I wanted to get rid off, that's where the h100 came in.
> 
> How sure are you about 8x 8x, and also, any of you got any clues how it'd affect performance going from 16x 16x, to 16x + 8x, or 8x + 8x?
> 
> Current looks:
> 
> Next up is a new PSU with 4 PCI'e cables so I can kill those molex converters.
> (Corsair AX760 or 860)
Click to expand...

I WAS waterphobia like you. Once you've had your first taste of it... you never go back, lol


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Are you thinking 1T/2T? Or something else.
> 
> It has crossed my mind to try to sell my current RAM but... it would shut down my main rig till I can afford a replacement. Not sure I want to go through that.
> I WAS waterphobia like you. Once you've had your first taste of it... you never go back, lol


1T
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> and here is an aida bench
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rangerjr1*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so my ram is running faster than buying 2400.. granted you can overclock that.. I would like to see the results
> 
> 5.15 too http://valid.canardpc.com/2804086
> 
> Funny thing.. My ram was still a bottleneck at 1866 for games I just loaded up Crysis 3 and was getting same FPS that I was getting if my Vid cards where OC'd
> 
> Tomorrow I am going to start knocking down voltages and seeing what I really need. but dang this is crazy awesome..
> 
> You guys with the 2400 ram how much do you notice with games/other programs.. does it seem like the faster is helping push more to get crunched... I think i have stated this in this thread before but I really do think that these chips love fast tight ram. i mean that a bit more than just faster ram is better
Click to expand...

I just noticed his was running 2T...


----------



## Pudfark

Seeking some experienced advice here. I've been hanging out on the Gigabyte 990FX thread.
I have a GA 990FX UD3 rev 1.1 board and it's dying from hot VRMs. Does this Sabertooth 990FX r2.0 Gen3
have a problem with overheating VRM's? I've googled this problem and have found nothing to suggest that it does.
I'm hours away from ordering this board and any thoughts, help or advice would be much appreciated. Gonna stuff
my 8350 in it with a Corsair H110 liquid cooler. Thanx All


----------



## Krusher33

Most of us put a fan over the VRM's especially if watercooling. The heatsink does a good job pulling the heat but something's gotta take the heat away.


----------



## cab2

They're both good mobos, Gigabyte is better hardware, the Sabertooth has better BIOS and fan control. How do you know the VRMs are dying? 8350 @ 4.6 how may watts is it drawing at the wall?


----------



## Pudfark

Wow, thanks for the speedy replies.

Originally for 10 months had AMD 955 at 3.6 by multi and stock voltage with no problems at all.
In January this year put 8350 and H110 in it. Cpu was overclocked by multi to 4.6 using 1.47 volts and LLC on high. It ran well this way for a month and then put Antec spot fan on VRMs. In the last three weeks temps going up on VRMs, cpu throttling, LLC going causing volts to go to 1.50 or a dab more. This is all in a Antec LanBoy Air case with 7 120mm fans, the aforementioned spot fan and the twin 140mm Corsair H110 fans...

I'm not the only one having this same problem...seems is becoming common with the 8 core cpu's.
Really wanna get the newest sabertooth or even the crosshairV?


----------



## Pudfark

Sorry don't know how many watts it is drawing have 950 watt silver rated PSU single graph card, two hdds.
I know I have plenty of "power". Or, I think I know it?


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> Sorry don't know how many watts it is drawing have 950 watt silver rated PSU single graph card, two hdds.
> I know I have plenty of "power". Or, I think I know it?


You can get a kill-a-watt for a few bucks, it will tell you how much power the mobo is using, you can see the effect of overclocking. Also, try AIDA64, it gives you the temps from all the "radar" sensors, there are 2 for the VRMs, I think they call it Temp1 & 2, I wouldn't worry unless they're both over 80C.


----------



## Pudfark

My current board throttles at 65C Temp3

No load idle at under 30c all three temps.

Only under load does it throttle and temps have been slowly increasing...on VRMs.

I'm worried and I can afford to replace the board. Much interested in which Asus board has the best
vrm cooling? I've been a gigafanboy for the last ten years. Time for Asus, I believe.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightykk*
> 
> Yah, another option would indeed be water cooling on them, but uhm. Let's just say that except for my h100 on the CPU (which really took me a damned long time to dare trying), I'm not really thrilled about water in my computer / waterphobia when it comes to that? ^^
> I've always wanted like a backup when it comes to my cooling, for CPU coolers I've always had a cooler with 2 fans, like my old Cooler Master Gemin II, or Mugen 2 and so on. But they just got bigger and bigger, and started creating hotspots on the motherboard cause of killing the airflow over the board, like I had a major one between the Mugen 2 and my graphic card that I wanted to get rid off, that's where the h100 came in.
> 
> How sure are you about 8x 8x, and also, any of you got any clues how it'd affect performance going from 16x 16x, to 16x + 8x, or 8x + 8x?
> 
> Current looks:
> 
> Next up is a new PSU with 4 PCI'e cables so I can kill those molex converters.
> (Corsair AX760 or 860)


dont know about performance dont want to learn lol

however right now you have a very cheap ( not ment to offend ) pump and only 1 of them. with a custom loop you can put 2+ pumps in and as many fans as you want. so there is your backup. if you are careful and ask advice .... and change your o rings now and then ( every few years ish depending on the coolant. ) you will never have a problem.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> Seeking some experienced advice here. I've been hanging out on the Gigabyte 990FX thread.
> I have a GA 990FX UD3 rev 1.1 board and it's dying from hot VRMs. Does this Sabertooth 990FX r2.0 Gen3
> have a problem with overheating VRM's? I've googled this problem and have found nothing to suggest that it does.
> I'm hours away from ordering this board and any thoughts, help or advice would be much appreciated. Gonna stuff
> my 8350 in it with a Corsair H110 liquid cooler. Thanx All


i think all amd boards need active vrm cooling if ocing heavily ( just my opinion ) . i can tell you that my vrms were in the 90ish deg. before i added a fan . does not take much i know ppl who say they have added a 40mm fan and it did wonders (*2 fans acctually) doesnt take much just some air movement. as for me i had an old 775 cm fan that is something like 3500rpms i have it on my mobo and my mobo does well with speed reg. it is lound as hell but works great!~ never see the vrms above 60 ( or near for that matter ) even when i hit 1.55-1.6v with ultra or extreme llc
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> They're both good mobos, Gigabyte is better hardware, the Sabertooth has better BIOS and fan control. How do you know the VRMs are dying? 8350 @ 4.6 how may watts is it drawing at the wall?


i would be willing to argue with you about giga having better hardware. i would say they at least have equal hardware. but i can tell you i put my mobo through hell and it does not even blink... add in the direct key ( see link in my sig for an awesome mod for this ) and bios update without cpu/ ram needed and i would say imo they are much better then giga . add in the 5 year warranty and i dont know how you can go wrong...... ( saberkitty i mean )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> You can get a kill-a-watt for a few bucks, it will tell you how much power the mobo is using, you can see the effect of overclocking. Also, try AIDA64, it gives you the temps from all the "radar" sensors, there are 2 for the VRMs, I think they call it Temp1 & 2, I wouldn't worry unless they're both over 80C.


i much prefer hwinfo64 but that is just personal preference.


----------



## Pudfark

Thanks Much Mega Man.
The newest Sabertooth it will be.
Will add fan to VRM's during install.
I'm only looking to have a 4.6ghz clock on the 8350 and hopefully under 1.48 volts.

Should have the new board by the end of next week. Then I'll be a regular here.
Thanx everybody for your words of wisdom. I listened and will apply them.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> Thanks Much Mega Man.
> The newest Sabertooth it will be.
> Will add fan to VRM's during install.
> I'm only looking to have a 4.6ghz clock on the 8350 and hopefully under 1.48 volts.
> 
> Should have the new board by the end of next week. Then I'll be a regular here.
> Thanx everybody for your words of wisdom. I listened and will apply them.


feel free to ask any questions @!


----------



## Phaethon666

Thanks for the input.

I went out and bought some corsair deliminator platinums 2x8gb 10-11-10-30s 1.5v and I could only get windows to stay up for about 5 minutes so I have decided to RMA the CPU first (second cpu I have had to get rid of) and see if that solves the problem. If it dosn't then I will have to RMA the motherboard even though other cpus seem to be able to work on it no problem


----------



## Pudfark

Salute Mega Man....wanted the new gen 3 board, newegg was out of stock....so, got the "older" board sabertooth r 2.0. thanx mucho for your advice.
I'll be posting in four or five days. See y'all then


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaethon666*
> 
> Thanks for the input.
> 
> I went out and bought some corsair deliminator platinums 2x8gb 10-11-10-30s 1.5v and I could only get windows to stay up for about 5 minutes so I have decided to RMA the CPU first (second cpu I have had to get rid of) and see if that solves the problem. If it dosn't then I will have to RMA the motherboard even though other cpus seem to be able to work on it no problem


what speed?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> Salute Mega Man....wanted the new gen 3 board, newegg was out of stock....so, got the "older" board sabertooth r 2.0. thanx mucho for your advice.
> I'll be posting in four or five days. See y'all then


let me know if you need helps


----------



## DeviloftheHell

btw im damn sure now it was a software issue on the windows end in the past few weeks regarding the random crashes/lockups. it was running fine for 5 days at 99.5%memory load and most of the time full cpu loading from solidworks damn simulation using everything what it can. as for the clean install first boot problem i didnt bothered to try again, so sorry for the didnt provided bios settings shots. will try again when i get an lsi raidcard and a revodrive next time+watercooling (its off but anyone have a good source for laing d5 strong or vario pumps with brass tops?)


----------



## pastasalad

Had to rma my sabertooth r2.0 faulty network port and some devices not working on a fresh install like my communications bus, asus reccomended i rma my board.
While i was at it i also rmad my first board that had the stuttering issues ,refusals to boot on occasion, and turning itself off and on while it was booted up

Whats it gonna take to get a sabertooth board that works as it should
Ive read alot of horror storys about this board some claiming they have had several boards all arrived faulty or developed faults within 2 weeks
I just want a board that works maybe i am wasting my time in asus and should go gigabyte instead

Because i sent both boards off im hoping i get them back and replaced so il have 2 boards to test and see if atleast 1 of the, is working hopefully they wont both not work

Funny enough i have a year + old m5a99x evo to tide me over till i get replacements but this board works flawlessly with my hardware but i prefer sabertooth (if i actaully got 1 that worked or stayed working)
I didnt even overclock them..pfff


----------



## Mega Man

unfortunately it happens sorry to hear it did though

GL with your new boards though !~


----------



## pastasalad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> unfortunately it happens sorry to hear it did though
> 
> GL with your new boards though !~


Thanks megaman

Heres hoping they dont refuse to replace the boards
Oh and my opinion is that the first sabertooth is much better then the r2.0 in the sense of reliability
But then fast boot was a nice feature on the r2.0


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastasalad*
> 
> Thanks megaman
> 
> Heres hoping they dont refuse to replace the boards
> Oh and my opinion is that the first sabertooth is much better then the r2.0 in the sense of reliability
> But then fast boot was a nice feature on the r2.0


I went through 2 before mine now but 1 i think was my fault, spillt water. But once i got this one it fights like a champ and is rock solid


----------



## darkangelire66

do I need to remove my sabertooth 990fx to install a noctua cooler


----------



## Metalcrack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkangelire66*
> 
> do I need to remove my sabertooth 990fx to install a noctua cooler


Maybe....what case are you using? Please fill in your rig specs.

The case is the determining factor. If it has a backplate cutout you're good to go. It utilizes a backplate that requires replacing the stock AMD bracket.

If your case doesn't have a cutout, then yes you will have to remove the board for install.


----------



## darkangelire66

cooler master haf 932 with 500 w psu
ASUS Sabertooth 990FX
amd phenome II X6 1100T 3.3GHZ
sapphire radeon 6850
8gb ddr3 ram


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkangelire66*
> 
> cooler master haf 932 with 500 w psu
> ASUS Sabertooth 990FX
> amd phenome II X6 1100T 3.3GHZ
> sapphire radeon 6850
> 8gb ddr3 ram


according to the pics on newegg you have a cutout so you should be good


----------



## Pudfark

My new Sabertooth is to be delivered tomorrow. It is the R.2.0 board not the Gen 3.

I have a few questions concerning this board?

What bios version should it have to run an AMD 8350?

I also ordered another copy of Win 7 64 Pro OEM from another vendor. I don't know when it will arrive. Is it possible to use, temporarily my other version OEM Win 7 Pro 64 which was used on my GIGAbyte Board? Meaning can I just unistall the chipset drivers and set the board bios/cmos to their basic settings, use this older version OEM OS...then when my new version comes in "activate" it with the new serial numbers?

I'm really anxious to get started using this board...


----------



## Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> My new Sabertooth is to be delivered tomorrow. It is the R.2.0 board not the Gen 3.
> 
> I have a few questions concerning this board?
> 
> What bios version should it have to run an AMD 8350?
> 
> I also ordered another copy of Win 7 64 Pro OEM from another vendor. I don't know when it will arrive. Is it possible to use, temporarily my other version OEM Win 7 Pro 64 which was used on my GIGAbyte Board? Meaning can I just unistall the chipset drivers and set the board bios/cmos to their basic settings, use this older version OEM OS...then when my new version comes in "activate" it with the new serial numbers?
> 
> I'm really anxious to get started using this board...


The R2.0 should work with the 8350 out of the box.


----------



## riscorpian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> My new Sabertooth is to be delivered tomorrow. It is the R.2.0 board not the Gen 3.
> 
> I have a few questions concerning this board?
> 
> What bios version should it have to run an AMD 8350?
> 
> I also ordered another copy of Win 7 64 Pro OEM from another vendor. I don't know when it will arrive. Is it possible to use, temporarily my other version OEM Win 7 Pro 64 which was used on my GIGAbyte Board? Meaning can I just unistall the chipset drivers and set the board bios/cmos to their basic settings, use this older version OEM OS...then when my new version comes in "activate" it with the new serial numbers?
> 
> I'm really anxious to get started using this board...


Yeah, I don't think you need to worry about 8350 compatibility unless you're using an older AM3 board. You should be fine.

As for your OS, it should be possible. I've swapped the motherboard and CPU without reinstalling the OS before, and it doesn't tend to cause _that_ many problems. It's an OEM OS, so you will probably need a new product key for it. Good thing you thought ahead there. Other than that, Windows should detect the new hardware and automatically install all of the drivers it needs. You can then go in and install ASUS's stuff from there. It won't necessarily be the most ideal setup, but it will work.

I'd still recommend reinstalling though. As I said, just swapping hardware doesn't cause _that_ many problems, but it will still give you a headache. _Especially_ if you do anything involving DRM. Just trust me on that.


----------



## Pudfark

Thank You....I've not used this type of bios interface UEFI? The few screenshots I've seen lead me to believe/hopefully it's pretty intuitive?

I read about the ECC memory thing....it seems possible to get around that with the "memory button" thingy on the board? I looked on the QVL list for memory....I am going to attempt using 2X8 Gskill F3-1600C9-8GSR This memory was not listed in the QVL









I going to do some more googling and mayfind a youtube video on the UEFI.

Thanks again.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> Thank You....I've not used this type of bios interface UEFI? The few screenshots I've seen lead me to believe/hopefully it's pretty intuitive?
> 
> I read about the ECC memory thing....it seems possible to get around that with the "memory button" thingy on the board? I looked on the QVL list for memory....I am going to attempt using 2X8 Gskill F3-1600C9-8GSR This memory was not listed in the QVL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I going to do some more googling and mayfind a youtube video on the UEFI.
> 
> Thanks again.


It is more intuiative than the 16 bit bios and ecc memory really is only used for server and high reliability computing.. However this board does support. There are many options this board comes with

I would flash to the latest bios but pd is a drop in go. I did notice an issue with one that was on bios 0204 or something like that so worse case get a flashdrive formatted in fat32 and save a bios to it. Worse case you will be able to do it from the bios.. The flashing is super simple and everything is pretty intuiative until you get to the advanced overclocking.. But that is more knowing what settings you are changing are actually doing.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> Thank You....I've not used this type of bios interface UEFI? The few screenshots I've seen lead me to believe/hopefully it's pretty intuitive?
> 
> I read about the ECC memory thing....it seems possible to get around that with the "memory button" thingy on the board? I looked on the QVL list for memory....I am going to attempt using 2X8 Gskill F3-1600C9-8GSR This memory was not listed in the QVL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I going to do some more googling and mayfind a youtube video on the UEFI.
> 
> Thanks again.


the memory button is just for overclocking when your system fails to boot you can press the button and it will reset your timings and get it to boot 7 that is it


----------



## Pudfark

Well my Sabertooth is "out for delivery". I have read about 250 pages of posts in this thread. It really amazes me how many folks take the time to help others, find problems and share solutions.

I'm pretty sure that I'll have some questions in the future and it's a great feeling knowing you folks are here.

Thanx everybody.


----------



## Mega Man

NP we are OCN after all !~


----------



## Pudfark

Howdy I'm back. Got the Sabertooth yesterday afternoon. It just reeks of quality and ruggedness. I'm taking my time on the install and have placed an 80 mm fan on the back of the Mobo directly facing the back of the VRM's heatsink/support and partially pointed to the back of the CPU. This is probably over kill, it does give me peace of mind. On the front of the board directly on top of the VRM heatsink, I have placed an Antec Spot Fan. On the side of my case facing the entire Mobo have 4 120mm fans covering the entire board. The back of the case has One 120mm fan as exhaust. Top of the case is modded to accept H110 liquid cooler with Two 140mm fans set to pull air into the case through the rad. Yeah, I know, that ain't the way it's supposed to be though, you gotta know my case is a Antec Lanboy Air, which pretty much resembles a screen door. I figure if that causes a problem? I'll just reverse my fans on the H110 and set them as exhaust. This case has no normal positive or negative airflow like others.

Anyways, that's where I'm at and I'm hoping to fire her up in a couple of hours, if I don't run out of baling wire, duct tape and zip ties, first.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> Howdy I'm back. Got the Sabertooth yesterday afternoon. It just reeks of quality and ruggedness. I'm taking my time on the install and have placed an 80 mm fan on the back of the Mobo directly facing the back of the VRM's heatsink/support and partially pointed to the back of the CPU. This is probably over kill, it does give me peace of mind. On the front of the board directly on top of the VRM heatsink, I have placed an Antec Spot Fan. On the side of my case facing the entire Mobo have 4 120mm fans covering the entire board. The back of the case has One 120mm fan as exhaust. Top of the case is modded to accept H110 liquid cooler with Two 140mm fans set to pull air into the case through the rad. Yeah, I know, that ain't the way it's supposed to be though, you gotta know my case is a Antec Lanboy Air, which pretty much resembles a screen door. I figure if that causes a problem? I'll just reverse my fans on the H110 and set them as exhaust. This case has no normal positive or negative airflow like others.
> 
> Anyways, that's where I'm at and I'm hoping to fire her up in a couple of hours, if I don't run out of baling wire, duct tape and zip ties, first.


sounds awesome you should post pics of it or create a build log


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> Howdy I'm back. Got the Sabertooth yesterday afternoon. It just reeks of quality and ruggedness. I'm taking my time on the install and have placed an 80 mm fan on the back of the Mobo directly facing the back of the VRM's heatsink/support and partially pointed to the back of the CPU. This is probably over kill, it does give me peace of mind. On the front of the board directly on top of the VRM heatsink, I have placed an Antec Spot Fan. On the side of my case facing the entire Mobo have 4 120mm fans covering the entire board. The back of the case has One 120mm fan as exhaust. Top of the case is modded to accept H110 liquid cooler with Two 140mm fans set to pull air into the case through the rad. Yeah, I know, that ain't the way it's supposed to be though, you gotta know my case is a Antec Lanboy Air, which pretty much resembles a screen door. I figure if that causes a problem? I'll just reverse my fans on the H110 and set them as exhaust. This case has no normal positive or negative airflow like others.
> 
> Anyways, that's where I'm at and I'm hoping to fire her up in a couple of hours, if I don't run out of baling wire, duct tape and zip ties, first.


welcome
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> sounds awesome you should post pics of it or create a build log


and +1


----------



## Zodiac

Add me please!

http://valid.canardpc.com/2812639


----------



## Zodiac

Facing the same issue as many others, the Vcores, especially Vcore1 cook, especially when encoding. I have no cut out for the cpu back plate on mine, and cutting a Thermaltake Armor case is very difficult...







Wondering if anyone had pics of how they mounted fans on the vcores themselves....

Thanks


----------



## prznar1

Hi guys, anyone knows how asus made the AMD platform to get pci-e 3.0 on the Sabertooth 990FX/GEN 3 R2?? What chip is hiding under that black radiator between pci-e slots? Does it works well or does it works like early sata3 chips that were even slower then sata2 supported from amd and intel chipsets


----------



## riscorpian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1*
> 
> Hi guys, anyone knows how asus made the AMD platform to get pci-e 3.0 on the Sabertooth 990FX/GEN 3 R2?? What chip is hiding under that black radiator between pci-e slots? Does it works well or does it works like early sata3 chips that were even slower then sata2 supported from amd and intel chipsets


The thing under that black heatsink is a PLX chip. The AM3+ platform doesn't actually have enough bandwidth to properly support PCIe 3.0, so it can't natively support the proper speeds. That extra chip is somewhat of a workaround that makes up for the chipset's limitations. Does it work as well as a native platform? Probably not. But then again, the native PCIe 3.0 solution doesn't really provide any noticeable benefits either.

At the very least, it doesn't seem to be any _slower_ than a regular 2.0 setup. And in theory, it will provide great benefits for crossfire or SLi setups since the slots are all linked to each other with a greater speed.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riscorpian*
> 
> The thing under that black heatsink is a PLX chip. The AM3+ platform doesn't actually have enough bandwidth to properly support PCIe 3.0, so it can't natively support the proper speeds. That extra chip is somewhat of a workaround that makes up for the chipset's limitations. Does it work as well as a native platform? Probably not. But then again, the native PCIe 3.0 solution doesn't really provide any noticeable benefits either.
> 
> At the very least, it doesn't seem to be any _slower_ than a regular 2.0 setup. And in theory, it will provide great benefits for crossfire or SLi setups since the slots are all linked to each other with a greater speed.


but that is "IF" you were initially exceding the bandwidth in the first place,.. other than that there is added latency perhaps if it was a quad SLI 780 or Titans than maybe other than that more gimmick than anything..


----------



## El-Fuego

Got my Asus sabertooth 990fx R2.0 from microcenter for $147 open box, originally was planning on getting m5a99x pro 2.0 but then when i found this for the same price i got it, I comes with full 5 years asus warranty and 30 days store return,
now my question is, sorry if that have been asked before but whats the different between this and the Gen3 beside the pcie3 ? I couldn't find the price difference online, but i still feel I got a good deal here, better then the m5a99x anyway right ?
thanks


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> Got my Asus sabertooth 990fx R2.0 from microcenter for $147 open box, originally was planning on getting m5a99x pro 2.0 but then when i found this for the same price i got it, I comes with full 5 years asus warranty and 30 days store return,
> now my question is, sorry if that have been asked before but whats the different between this and the Gen3 beside the pcie3 ? I couldn't find the price difference online, but i still feel I got a good deal here, better then the m5a99x anyway right ?
> thanks


yes it is better
i think the pcie layout is different though


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> Got my Asus sabertooth 990fx R2.0 from microcenter for $147 open box, originally was planning on getting m5a99x pro 2.0 but then when i found this for the same price i got it, I comes with full 5 years asus warranty and 30 days store return,
> now my question is, sorry if that have been asked before but whats the different between this and the Gen3 beside the pcie3 ? I couldn't find the price difference online, but i still feel I got a good deal here, better then the m5a99x anyway right ?
> thanks


nothing is different besides the PCIe 3.0.... and that us only because of an added chip... all other components are the same


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> nothing is different besides the PCIe 3.0.... and that us only because of an added chip... all other components are the same


\
well heatsink color is a bit different


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> \
> well heatsink color is a bit different


----------



## JackLocke

Add me please









http://valid.canardpc.com/2814033
http://valid.canardpc.com/2814033


----------



## SR-71 Blackbird

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2814482

http://valid.canardpc.com/2814482

Just put my Sabertooth. together today Rev 2.


----------



## Mega Man

welcome


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suburban97*
> 
> sign me up
> 
> image wont show for some reason but just click on it and it will show...


welcome
you have to use image not attach when you do this


----------



## SR-71 Blackbird

Glad to be aboard.


----------



## Mega Man

welcome !~


----------



## astrovasilis

http://valid.canardpc.com/2817157

one question

what about power consumption;

155W idle 320 W load.


----------



## JackLocke

Does anyone know why I don't see AHCI option for SATA 5 and 6 ports in my ASUS Sabertooth 990FX Gen 3 ?



According to manual if SATA 1 to 4 ports are set as RAID then I should be able to set SATA 5 and 6 ports to use AHCI but instead I see only two options RAID and IDE.

Issue is I want to use RAID 0 HDD for data only with SSD as my main OS drive. Now SSD suppose to use AHCI instead if IDE for better performance but I don't see any way to use both AHCI and RAID together.

Do I have to modify something else in BIOS ?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackLocke*
> 
> Does anyone know why I don't see AHCI option for SATA 5 and 6 ports in my ASUS Sabertooth 990FX Gen 3 ?
> 
> 
> 
> According to manual if SATA 1 to 4 ports are set as RAID then I should be able to set SATA 5 and 6 ports to use AHCI but instead I see only two options RAID and IDE.
> 
> Issue is I want to use RAID 0 HDD for data only with SSD as my main OS drive. Now SSD suppose to use AHCI instead if IDE for better performance but I don't see any way to use both AHCI and RAID together.
> 
> Do I have to modify something else in BIOS ?


How many hdds do you have to raid? If its only 2 then id stick it there other than that are you on the most updated bios?

If i remember correctly i dony have ahci for those either on my r2


----------



## JackLocke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> How many hdds do you have to raid? If its only 2 then id stick it there other than that are you on the most updated bios?
> 
> If i remember correctly i dony have ahci for those either on my r2


Thanks for super quick reply







...
Yes, it is RAID 0 and I have only 2 HDDs in it... based on manual I am have connected them on SATA ports 1 and 2 ... And I have plugged my SSD on SATA port 5 .. because according to manual when using RAID configuration, SATA ports 1 to 4 are used together ... and SATA ports 5 and 6 can be configured to use AHCI or IDE.

I don't have latest BIOS, I have Version 0305 (Date: 2013.01.28). Do you think this could be the reason why I don't see AHCI for ports 5 & 6 ?

If you too don't see AHCI option for ports 5 & 6 when RAID is used on port 1 to 4 ... then ... they are lying in their manual ... with fancy Mobo like this .... it is just bad that they don't support SSD and RAID together !!


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackLocke*
> 
> Thanks for super quick reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> Yes, it is RAID 0 and I have only 2 HDDs in it... based on manual I am have connected them on SATA ports 1 and 2 ... And I have plugged my SSD on SATA port 5 .. because according to manual when using RAID configuration, SATA ports 1 to 4 are used together ... and SATA ports 5 and 6 can be configured to use AHCI or IDE.
> 
> I don't have latest BIOS, I have Version 0305 (Date: 2013.01.28). Do you think this could be the reason why I don't see AHCI for ports 5 & 6 ?
> 
> If you too don't see AHCI option for ports 5 & 6 when RAID is used on port 1 to 4 ... then ... they are lying in their manual ... with fancy Mobo like this .... it is just bad that they don't support SSD and RAID together !!


i could be wrong on.the raid but you might as well flash now there have been a few stability updates since then i know they also fixed somethings but nit sure what..

worse case put hdds on 5 and 6 in raid and use 1through4 for ahci should work out the same


----------



## GreenGoblinGHz

Hiya. Got 2 x Sabertooth mobos. 2gen and 3gen. Just replaced 2gen in2 3gen and disapointed very fast.
Were is my RAID 0+1 ???
It was tweakable in saber 2gen.. on saber 3gen there's "pretty much automatic bios" asking "wanna put this in RAID o " So it ez and thats cool








BUT..
I cant get my 2x 120GB kingstonhyperX ssd's in 0+1 only raid 0.. On raid 0+1 (used parkdale) ssd was bout 30% faster writing speed, 40% reading.
Kinda sux that "new" generation makes things easier and hides the cool stuff..

I havent figured out yet how can I get Effective RAID 0+1 in saber 3gen ?

FYI : it was possible in gen2..

Better cooling solution .... But I actually bought saber3 only because of the pci3 spots. Waiting that AMD will fix the freekin dual-gpu driver probs (Ares).. Formula 5 just wasent my cup of tee..

Next mobo hopefully extreme rampage 5 (hero/gene dont seem valid options).. Will c what (well i'm waiting for rog new mobos)..

BUT if some1 has tweaked effective raid 0+1 plz tell!!!!

Drives me nuts as I know that old saber has faster memomy than new1...(atm.) ..I will figure it out!


----------



## JackLocke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> i could be wrong on.the raid but you might as well flash now there have been a few stability updates since then i know they also fixed somethings but nit sure what..
> 
> worse case put hdds on 5 and 6 in raid and use 1through4 for ahci should work out the same


I am going to flash new BIOS update when I will go to home ...I am at work now









And about using ports 5 and 6 for RAID ... I already tried that before posting my question here... and it doesn't work







.
What I mean to say is, you can't enable RAID on 5 & 6 till you enable RAID on 1 to 4 ... So it means
1) you use RAID on all 6 ports (with two groups ... 1 to 4 and 5 & 6)
2) AHCI on ALL ports
3) RAID on 1 to 4 and IDE on 5 & 6
4) IDE on all


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreenGoblinGHz*
> 
> Hiya. Got 2 x Sabertooth mobos. 2gen and 3gen. Just replaced 2gen in2 3gen and disapointed very fast.
> Were is my RAID 0+1 ???
> It was tweakable in saber 2gen.. on saber 3gen there's "pretty much automatic bios" asking "wanna put this in RAID o " So it ez and thats cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT..
> I cant get my 2x 120GB kingstonhyperX ssd's in 0+1 only raid 0.. On raid 0+1 (used parkdale) ssd was bout 30% faster writing speed, 40% reading.
> Kinda sux that "new" generation makes things easier and hides the cool stuff..
> 
> I havent figured out yet how can I get Effective RAID 0+1 in saber 3gen ?
> 
> FYI : it was possible in gen2..
> 
> Better cooling solution .... But I actually bought saber3 only because of the pci3 spots. Waiting that AMD will fix the freekin dual-gpu driver probs (Ares).. Formula 5 just wasent my cup of tee..
> 
> Next mobo hopefully extreme rampage 5 (hero/gene dont seem valid options).. Will c what (well i'm waiting for rog new mobos)..
> 
> BUT if some1 has tweaked effective raid 0+1 plz tell!!!!
> 
> Drives me nuts as I know that old saber has faster memomy than new1...(atm.) ..I will figure it out!


Ooooh, please do the comparison tests for us? (dual gpu's on both boards)


----------



## headmixer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackLocke*
> 
> Does anyone know why I don't see AHCI option for SATA 5 and 6 ports in my ASUS Sabertooth 990FX Gen 3 ?
> 
> 
> 
> According to manual if SATA 1 to 4 ports are set as RAID then I should be able to set SATA 5 and 6 ports to use AHCI but instead I see only two options RAID and IDE.
> 
> Issue is I want to use RAID 0 HDD for data only with SSD as my main OS drive. Now SSD suppose to use AHCI instead if IDE for better performance but I don't see any way to use both AHCI and RAID together.
> 
> Do I have to modify something else in BIOS ?


The chip is "AHCI suported RAID".

Set 1-4 to RAID and connect all your drives to 1-4.

When you run the setup for your RAID, only select the SSD's to put in your RAID Strip.

The remaining drives on the 1-4 connectors will run in AHCI mode as single drives.

The same applies for the 5-6 connectors when they are set to RAID.


----------



## El-Fuego

will this photo gets me in the club or i have to submit cpuz validation ?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> will this photo gets me in the club or i have to submit cpuz validation ?


either way welcome and congrats !~


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> either way welcome and congrats !~


thanks, now i need a chip to slap on that board








and hdd, i need one of those too


----------



## Tweeky

AMD FX 9650

http://amdfx.blogspot.com/2013/05/amd-steamroller-fx-9650-45-ghz-48-ghz.html


----------



## ManofGod1000

I am posting in this thread since the question I have is to the owners of the Sabretooth 990FX. Currently, I have a FX8350 with an Asrock 990FX Extreme 4 mainboard. The best I can get is 4.5GHz on an overclock with this board because of the limited LLC options. The question is: I have the opportunity of getting a Sabretooth 990FX R1 board for $100 used but I am uncertain whether it would be worth it?

I understand that no cpu is guaranteed a certain overclock but, I am certain that this board is holding me back from a better one. (That said, it is a solid, stable board with excellent features which I have owned since September, 2011.)


----------



## Krusher33

I have the R1 and I can get 5 ghz stable.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManofGod1000*
> 
> I am posting in this thread since the question I have is to the owners of the Sabretooth 990FX. Currently, I have a FX8350 with an Asrock 990FX Extreme 4 mainboard. The best I can get is 4.5GHz on an overclock with this board because of the limited LLC options. The question is: I have the opportunity of getting a Sabretooth 990FX R1 board for $100 used but I am uncertain whether it would be worth it?
> 
> I understand that no cpu is guaranteed a certain overclock but, I am certain that this board is holding me back from a better one. (That said, it is a solid, stable board with excellent features which I have owned since September, 2011.)


i would say go for it. this is a solid board. and you should be balke to get an easy 4.8 out of it with basic watercooling ( not a closed loop but a custom ...) at the min


----------



## Noviets

Add me!

Sabertooth 990FX 2.0 with 7970 DC2T

My case sucks balls but Ive had it for years, I will be replacing it when I go with water for the steamroller chips. I'l be making my own custom loop, so that should be interesting lol


----------



## TwiggLe

Switching my 960T to an FX-8150 this week. Besides resetting the BIOS (Which it most likely will on it's own when it detects the new CPU.) Anything I should do beforehand?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Add me!
> 
> Sabertooth 990FX 2.0 with 7970 DC2T
> 
> My case sucks balls but Ive had it for years, I will be replacing it when I go with water for the steamroller chips. I'l be making my own custom loop, so that should be interesting lol


welcome !~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Add me!
> 
> Sabertooth 990FX 2.0 with 7970 DC2T
> 
> My case sucks balls but Ive had it for years, I will be replacing it when I go with water for the steamroller chips. I'l be making my own custom loop, so that should be interesting lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwiggLe*
> 
> Switching my 960T to an FX-8150 this week. Besides resetting the BIOS (Which it most likely will on it's own when it detects the new CPU.) Anything I should do beforehand?


welcome. dont oc youre cpu/nb like you used to


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Add me!
> 
> Sabertooth 990FX 2.0 with 7970 DC2T
> 
> My case sucks balls but Ive had it for years, I will be replacing it when I go with water for the steamroller chips. I'l be making my own custom loop, so that should be interesting lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwiggLe*
> 
> Switching my 960T to an FX-8150 this week. Besides resetting the BIOS (Which it most likely will on it's own when it detects the new CPU.) Anything I should do beforehand?


Welcome to the both of you.

On the Egg the 8150 is the same price as the 8350 if you havent got the chip yet i recommend getting the 8350
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113284

with promo code + $20 off w/ promo code EMCXRVM27, ends 6/3


----------



## TwiggLe

The 8150 is on sale for $100 on TD is the only reason im switching.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwiggLe*
> 
> The 8150 is on sale for $100 on TD is the only reason im switching.


well then lol


----------



## vaeron

http://valid.canardpc.com/2822145

Proud Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 owner!


----------



## Mega Man

welcome man


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaeron*
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/2822145
> 
> Proud Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 owner!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> welcome man


Welcome Mega you always beat me in every thread lol


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwiggLe*
> 
> The 8150 is on sale for $100 on TD is the only reason im switching.


I was about to say get the 8350 instead too but I guess that's worth it, lol


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwiggLe*
> 
> The 8150 is on sale for $100 on TD is the only reason im switching.


link please ? I'm looking for one now.


----------



## Buxty

Hey guys!
I've got one of ASUS 990x mobo's and im considering getting the Saber 990FX Gen3 and i was wondering whether its worth it performance wise? I'm preparing for Steamroller and damn these boards look sexy


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Hey guys!
> I've got one of ASUS 990x mobo's and im considering getting the Saber 990FX Gen3 and i was wondering whether its worth it performance wise? I'm preparing for Steamroller and damn these boards look sexy


your current mobo should be fine with SR, but yeah sabertooth are great with overclocking, if you live close to micro center check what they have you can find great deals there.


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> your current mobo should be fine with SR, but yeah sabertooth are great with overclocking, if you live close to micro center check what they have you can find great deals there.


I've got my eyes set on a couple of stores that plan to get it but its hard to get it in England. I think it was preparing for SR and also that this one gets mighty toasty and the Saber has that TUF coating and stuff. Does yours get very hot?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Hey guys!
> I've got one of ASUS 990x mobo's and im considering getting the Saber 990FX Gen3 and i was wondering whether its worth it performance wise? I'm preparing for Steamroller and damn these boards look sexy


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> I've got my eyes set on a couple of stores that plan to get it but its hard to get it in England. I think it was preparing for SR and also that this one gets mighty toasty and the Saber has that TUF coating and stuff. Does yours get very hot?


i think it would be a good upgrade!~
mine does get hot due to my oc but that was easily eliminated with a fan on the vrms. unless you watercool your board. anymore i would recommend always putting a fan on vrms if you OC your chip


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i think it would be a good upgrade!~
> mine does get hot due to my oc but that was easily eliminated with a fan on the vrms. unless you watercool your board. anymore i would recommend always putting a fan on vrms if you OC your chip


Fans like the Antec spot cool? or do you use something else?


----------



## alan760

weird error with my sabertooth,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDRnwYP5QE4

looks like something wrong with the sata chipset, cant boot anymore,


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Fans like the Antec spot cool? or do you use something else?


from what i understand it does not have to be high cfm just some airmovement works wonders.
i have a very high rpm old 92mm fan from a heatsink. ( very loud @ full speed )
but i just used an old extra fan !~

many way s to mount. i use zip ties some ppl tape, some screw to their cpu block... the sky is the limit

some use 40mm some 80mm some 120mm

just some air movement helps, you can also put one in back by the vrm plate / cpu socket and it is supposed to help as well.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i think it would be a good upgrade!~
> mine does get hot due to my oc but that was easily eliminated with a fan on the vrms. unless you watercool your board. anymore i would recommend always putting a fan on vrms if you OC your chip
> 
> 
> 
> Fans like the Antec spot cool? or do you use something else?
Click to expand...




This is what I did. I had 2 fans on the sabertooth but found one behind the VRM plate on the back of the motherboard and one above the VRM was plenty.

Reducing the temps on the VRM reduced the temps on the CPU otherwise I would not have cared.

It made no noticeable difference on the overclocked i5 my guess is because the CPU is not as high of a wattage.

The AMD was a unlocked 960T running all 6 cores 3.9GHz and 1.39v


----------



## pastasalad

Anybody know of 2 x 8 gig 1866 memory that works with the sabertooth 1 and r2.0 the crucial ballistix kit 1866 at 9-9-9-27 had 3 sets throwing errors ,guranteed compatible but i couldnt get it to work no matter what i tried so now im looking for another brandany help on a definate compatible kit would be great thanyou in advance


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastasalad*
> 
> Anybody know of 2 x 8 gig 1866 memory that works with the sabertooth 1 and r2.0 the crucial ballistix kit 1866 at 9-9-9-27 had 3 sets throwing errors ,guranteed compatible but i couldnt get it to work no matter what i tried so now im looking for another brandany help on a definate compatible kit would be great thanyou in advance


That is odd I am using the Ballistex kit and they run great!


----------



## pastasalad

I was using the ballistix elite 1866Mhz native i had 3 of the same sets on memtest x86+ and memtest x86 i got dozens of memory errors on all of the sticks even at 1333 10-10-10-27-2t-1.5v i have a fx8150 a fx8350 2 sabertooth boards 990fx and 990fx r2.0 latest bios and a m5a99xevo i also bought a brand new psu abot 2 months ago xfx 850 dark pro

Didnt matter what board or cpu i used i could not pass memtest with any pair even after crucial checked for errors before sending me using an intel board i had to send back due to memtest telling me it was full of errors i tried the passmark memtest too and same difference

I didnt witness any fault in windows but when i run memtest x86 or + i want to be able to pass but even when i dropped to 1333 at relaxed timings i could not pass and within 3 minutes the errors where mounting each test

I tried reseating, different slots even using them as single channel i tried upping the dram voltage , i tried using docp profile,i even increased the cpu/nb to 1.25
But nothing helped me get past any of the errors that where being reported

Because i hadnt witnessed a fault for 2 days i settled on the idea it might be memtest x86+ false positive so i tried memtest x86 4.2.0 from passmark and i still got errors by the second pass

I put in my xms3 1333 2x4 gig and i can memtest for days no issues or errors only when i introduce that particular ram memtest hates it
We have different ram modules i beleive i think the problem is compatibility thats why i asked anyone knew of any other memory that can run 1866 8gig modules and not from crucial

I could have got the gold ballistix 1600 8-8-8-27 4x4 but i wanted native 1866 and only 2 modules not 4 so i got the above instead

Im interested in gskill lowest timings completely compatible 8 gig x2 at 1866 tested speed but im not sure what will work


----------



## cab2

Have you tried the magic Samsung M379B5273DH0-YK0? I use it in both of my Sabertooth R2.0 without any problems.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastasalad*
> 
> I was using the ballistix elite 1866Mhz native i had 3 of the same sets on memtest x86+ and memtest x86 i got dozens of memory errors on all of the sticks even at 1333 10-10-10-27-2t-1.5v i have a fx8150 a fx8350 2 sabertooth boards 990fx and 990fx r2.0 latest bios and a m5a99xevo i also bought a brand new psu abot 2 months ago xfx 850 dark pro
> 
> Didnt matter what board or cpu i used i could not pass memtest with any pair even after crucial checked for errors before sending me using an intel board i had to send back due to memtest telling me it was full of errors i tried the passmark memtest too and same difference
> 
> I didnt witness any fault in windows but when i run memtest x86 or + i want to be able to pass but even when i dropped to 1333 at relaxed timings i could not pass and within 3 minutes the errors where mounting each test
> 
> I tried reseating, different slots even using them as single channel i tried upping the dram voltage , i tried using docp profile,i even increased the cpu/nb to 1.25
> But nothing helped me get past any of the errors that where being reported
> 
> Because i hadnt witnessed a fault for 2 days i settled on the idea it might be memtest x86+ false positive so i tried memtest x86 4.2.0 from passmark and i still got errors by the second pass
> 
> I put in my xms3 1333 2x4 gig and i can memtest for days no issues or errors only when i introduce that particular ram memtest hates it
> We have different ram modules i beleive i think the problem is compatibility thats why i asked anyone knew of any other memory that can run 1866 8gig modules and not from crucial
> 
> I could have got the gold ballistix 1600 8-8-8-27 4x4 but i wanted native 1866 and only 2 modules not 4 so i got the above instead
> 
> Im interested in gskill lowest timings completely compatible 8 gig x2 at 1866 tested speed but im not sure what will work


ewwwwww


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastasalad*
> 
> I was using the ballistix elite 1866Mhz native i had 3 of the same sets on memtest x86+ and memtest x86 i got dozens of memory errors on all of the sticks even at 1333 10-10-10-27-2t-1.5v i have a fx8150 a fx8350 2 sabertooth boards 990fx and 990fx r2.0 latest bios and a m5a99xevo i also bought a brand new psu abot 2 months ago xfx 850 dark pro
> 
> Didnt matter what board or cpu i used i could not pass memtest with any pair even after crucial checked for errors before sending me using an intel board i had to send back due to memtest telling me it was full of errors i tried the passmark memtest too and same difference
> 
> I didnt witness any fault in windows but when i run memtest x86 or + i want to be able to pass but even when i dropped to 1333 at relaxed timings i could not pass and within 3 minutes the errors where mounting each test
> 
> I tried reseating, different slots even using them as single channel i tried upping the dram voltage , i tried using docp profile,i even increased the cpu/nb to 1.25
> But nothing helped me get past any of the errors that where being reported
> 
> Because i hadnt witnessed a fault for 2 days i settled on the idea it might be memtest x86+ false positive so i tried memtest x86 4.2.0 from passmark and i still got errors by the second pass
> 
> I put in my xms3 1333 2x4 gig and i can memtest for days no issues or errors only when i introduce that particular ram memtest hates it
> We have different ram modules i beleive i think the problem is compatibility thats why i asked anyone knew of any other memory that can run 1866 8gig modules and not from crucial
> 
> I could have got the gold ballistix 1600 8-8-8-27 4x4 but i wanted native 1866 and only 2 modules not 4 so i got the above instead
> 
> Im interested in gskill lowest timings completely compatible 8 gig x2 at 1866 tested speed but im not sure what will work


You shouldn't have any trouble with G.Skill kits I've used them for years and haven't had a kit that didn't work yet. I ran this kit, 16GB G.Skill DDR3 PC3-14900 RipjawsZ Series for Intel X79 (9-10-9-28) Quad Channel kit 4x4GB in the Sabertooth with no problems (it was guaranteed to work by G.Skill support they tested it for me) I'm currently running this Trident kit, 16GB G.Skill DDR3 PC3-19200 2400MHz TridentX Series CL10 (10-12-12-31) Dual Channel kit 2x8GB in the Sabertooth with no problems, at 2133MHz with tighter timings it flies. Hope this helps good luck.


----------



## pastasalad

Ive had news about my boards under rma 1 i had 1 day that was the sabertooth 990fx r2.0 i asked for a refund it was deemed faulty by asus
The second item was my sabertooth r1 deemed faulty but because they don't make these boards anymore i get a full refund it lasted less then 8 months and then the chipset and the io crapped out

So i have 300 in refunds and the ram thats 130 il get back also and i got another 200 coming there is a 4770k bundle starting from 450£ although i wont buy a bundle im sure i can get everything of reasonable middle range for 600+£
il keep my amd fx8350 system i just need an intel cpu motherboard and memory
The returns on the amd boards is just shameful and theres nothing i can add or do to make my computer any quicker other then wait around, for several months like ive hit a brick wall

So I'm not an intel fan but I'm withdrawing from amd
Intel i7 4770k is faster more efficient and theres a lot more support out there via parts that are compatible
So based on all this bad experience I'm now determined to switch sides
Its with great regret because I've used amd for several years and chose amd over intel every time


----------



## Thanos1972

Hello guys.proud owner of the rev 1.01 gor about 3 weeks (well,not so proud of asus because my last M4A87TD EVO decided one afternoon to blow a solid cap)...waiting for the guarantee thing.
Anyway,the reason i choose rev one is that currently i use my phenom II 555 that unlocks to a B55 and is good for 4.1ghz with 1.45 almost.I am waiting for SR and i hope that the rev 1.01 will support them.
I have this strange sound from my speakers when i shut down the mb,any help with this?also when i log in windows my fans for about half a second seem to turn off and again on.i believe this has something to do with the aisuite as it loads with the windows.any help?also with the fans,sometimes if i am browsing,they just decide to almost shut down. one 170mm which run at 800 it goes to 200 and the 120mm which runs at 1500 goes to 700.as my mb undervolts them.
Has anyone else these problems?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastasalad*
> 
> Anybody know of 2 x 8 gig 1866 memory that works with the sabertooth 1 and r2.0 the crucial ballistix kit 1866 at 9-9-9-27 had 3 sets throwing errors ,guranteed compatible but i couldnt get it to work no matter what i tried so now im looking for another brandany help on a definate compatible kit would be great thanyou in advance


what are your settings? ( bios )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thanos1972*
> 
> Hello guys.proud owner of the rev 1.01 gor about 3 weeks (well,not so proud of asus because my last M4A87TD EVO decided one afternoon to blow a solid cap)...waiting for the guarantee thing.
> Anyway,the reason i choose rev one is that currently i use my phenom II 555 that unlocks to a B55 and is good for 4.1ghz with 1.45 almost.I am waiting for SR and i hope that the rev 1.01 will support them.
> I have this strange sound from my speakers when i shut down the mb,any help with this?also when i log in windows my fans for about half a second seem to turn off and again on.i believe this has something to do with the aisuite as it loads with the windows.any help?also with the fans,sometimes if i am browsing,they just decide to almost shut down. one 170mm which run at 800 it goes to 200 and the 120mm which runs at 1500 goes to 700.as my mb undervolts them.
> Has anyone else these problems?


uninstall aisuite

they constantly give wrong readings and yes the fan on off @ startup is due to the program happened to me as well.

recommend using hwinfo64 for readings . and there are many speed controller programs to chose from.


----------



## pastasalad

That sound buzzing happened with all 3 of my amd 999fx boards lots of people complain of it usually when you shutdown
That fan issue is your bios with the variable fan speed enabled and ai suite installed controlling your fan with me when i had this issue it had something to do with the aisuite tranquility/ power program i forget what the aisuite program is called but under advanced it had a high performance and powersaver tab and in there it says allow aisuite to change the fan speed and it will be set to auto if you change that to stick to bios setting that problem should stop atleast thats what fixed mine from randomly stopping spinning
I think its a bad idea to install aisuite based on the fact alot of my blue screens of death in the past have been caused by aisuite

Megaman i sent the ram back for refund
But
Overclocking was disabled turbo was disabled ecc was disabled memory hole remapping disabled all powersaving disabled the rest is default i also tried with the memok button as a last resort and a bios clear
[email protected] 1.5 ,[email protected] all gave errors
[email protected] and then at 1600 also as many errors
The errors where random every test i got errors in a different place but once i got 1 2 minutes later i had 50 odd and id withdraw from the test and try something else
It was inconsistant


----------



## Thanos1972

well on bios i have disabled the settings for the fans cause,well you cant control the ΝH-D14 so i do not need them.and also in the ai suite the profile for the fans is on disabled.so i suppose they should run max speed.
But the thing that worries me most is the one i told you that sometimes (when it decides),it undevolt the fans.Well guess i have to unistall the aisuite as you guys recommend....
And for history,with the previous motherboard i could run my mem at 1800 mhz Stable with 1.65 volts.
with this mb i cant...only at 1600 as it is suposed to be.you can see my ram at my sign....
And no better overclock for the cpu....
at least i hope that it will support streamrollers.i am happy that i bought it but i hoped for better overclocking capabilities.
p.s the 70mm fan that i used from and old athlon x2 heatsink did miracles when i mounted on the backside of the cpu socket and vrm backplate.definately a must.
also no power savings for me yet as i currently need to stabilize my overclock.see what i can do.luckily i can go to 2800 for cpu_nb with 1.30 volts.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thanos1972*
> 
> well on bios i have disabled the settings for the fans cause,well you cant control the ΝH-D14 so i do not need them.and also in the ai suite the profile for the fans is on disabled.so i suppose they should run max speed.
> But the thing that worries me most is the one i told you that sometimes (when it decides),it undevolt the fans.Well guess i have to unistall the aisuite as you guys recommend....
> And for history,with the previous motherboard i could run my mem at 1800 mhz Stable with 1.65 volts.
> with this mb i cant...only at 1600 as it is suposed to be.you can see my ram at my sign....
> And no better overclock for the cpu....
> at least i hope that it will support streamrollers.i am happy that i bought it but i hoped for better overclocking capabilities.
> p.s the 70mm fan that i used from and old athlon x2 heatsink did miracles when i mounted on the backside of the cpu socket and vrm backplate.definately a must.
> also no power savings for me yet as i currently need to stabilize my overclock.see what i can do.luckily i can go to 2800 for cpu_nb with 1.30 volts.


i am asking for a pic of your bios settings
( fat32 formated usb drive ) go to bios hit f12 on the page you want to screenshot.

it would help to see your
multi/power option page
digi power page
ram page


----------



## Thanos1972

Thank you guys for helping me out.
well first of all let me join the club.
Here are the pics and the validation.
And i think i was wrong about the overclocking capabilities.just a teaser












Mega cant use a usb stick now as an 16gb i had to use,broke yesterday.well kind unlucky here....
tell me if any pics with my cell phone will be of any use.or you can just ask me what would you like to know.
everything is supposed to be as it is.in the ram page,ecc is off and such things (i read all the thread pages from page one to the last in the last week),
multi power option is fsb 200 and multi right now to 21.
120% for both cpu and cpu_nb current blah blah blah,(you know what i mean)
cpu load line on ultra high and cpu/nb on high,
cpu phase control on extreme with c.probe current
cpu voltage frequency on auto and spread spectrum is off,


----------



## pastasalad

I read your pc specs i swear it said dual core but here in your cpuz it says quad for some reason i can see your system info on a windows phone but not my ipad go figure
Phenoms where good cpus

Did you put them fans underneath,also that cooler holy crap its huge, bigger then i thought it was but from the looks of it your out of space in your case


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastasalad*
> 
> I read your pc specs i swear it said dual core but here in your cpuz it says quad for some reason i can see your system info on a windows phone but not my ipad go figure
> Phenoms where good cpus
> 
> Did you put them fans underneath,also that cooler holy crap its huge, bigger then i thought it was but from the looks of it your out of space in your case


LOL i thought you were talking crap.. hey triple spot FTW lol that is what you get for air.. the only way to properly cool..


----------



## Thanos1972

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastasalad*
> 
> I read your pc specs i swear it said dual core but here in your cpuz it says quad for some reason i can see your system info on a windows phone but not my ipad go figure
> Phenoms where good cpus
> 
> Did you put them fans underneath,also that cooler holy crap its huge, bigger then i thought it was but from the looks of it your out of space in your case


Well it used to be a phenom II 555.at least,i bought it that way.from the first day it unlocked to a quad B55








Hehe both of the coolers are huge thats why you say that i am out of space...both of them are huge.and too many fans inside the case so too many cables...
including the noctua fans and the 2 on the mk 26,there are 6 X 120, 3 X 140, 1 X 170 and 1 X 070.


----------



## Thanos1972

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> LOL i thought you were talking crap.. hey triple spot FTW lol that is what you get for air.. the only way to properly cool..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thanos1972*
> 
> Thank you guys for helping me out.
> well first of all let me join the club.
> Here are the pics and the validation.
> And i think i was wrong about the overclocking capabilities.just a teaser
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mega cant use a usb stick now as an 16gb i had to use,broke yesterday.well kind unlucky here....
> tell me if any pics with my cell phone will be of any use.or you can just ask me what would you like to know.
> everything is supposed to be as it is.in the ram page,ecc is off and such things (i read all the thread pages from page one to the last in the last week),
> multi power option is fsb 200 and multi right now to 21.
> 120% for both cpu and cpu_nb current blah blah blah,(you know what i mean)
> cpu load line on ultra high and cpu/nb on high,
> cpu phase control on extreme with c.probe current
> cpu voltage frequency on auto and spread spectrum is off,


it is np i need to know the exact model of your ram. and what is your cpu/nb set and and what volts for both ram and cpu/nb
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> LOL i thought you were talking crap.. hey triple spot FTW lol that is what you get for air.. the only way to properly cool..


that would be why i went water


----------



## pastasalad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> LOL i thought you were talking crap.. hey triple spot FTW lol that is what you get for air.. the only way to properly cool..


Wasnt talking crap never seen anything like that before with fans bolted to everything thats all its not a bad thing, was just surprised by it i liked how you unlocked the 2 cores ive tried to do this before but no luck


----------



## Thanos1972

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it is np i need to know the exact model of your ram. and what is your cpu/nb set and and what volts for both ram and cpu/nb


Ram is 4X2gb Kingston HyperXBlu KHX1600C9AD3B1/2GB
I tried for for CPU_NB up to 1.35 (when i was overclocking the ram).but it is steady with 1.325 on 2800 mhz..i believe less also but havent tried yet.when i was trying for ram,my cpu_nb was at 2700 cause i playsed with fsb
Volts for ram i even tried up to 1.67 but no luck.now i am at 1.615 but i can take less as i didnt overclock it yet.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thanos1972*
> 
> Ram is 4X2gb Kingston HyperXBlu KHX1600C9AD3B1/2GB
> I tried for for CPU_NB up to 1.35 (when i was overclocking the ram).but it is steady with 1.325 on 2800 mhz..i believe less also but havent tried yet.when i was trying for ram,my cpu_nb was at 2700 cause i playsed with fsb
> Volts for ram i even tried up to 1.67 but no luck.now i am at 1.615 but i can take less as i didnt overclock it yet.


you will probably need more volts on the ram. and you may of been hitting a dead spot in your fsb have you tryed ocing just the ram ?


----------



## Thanos1972

Yes i tried that but no luck.
with the previous motherboard i could do it easily.
with this motherboard no luck.i will keep looking though.


----------



## jade63

New here and pretty much new to computers. I have a s^%t load of questions for the veterans and think I'm in the right place. First off a little background. I have never built or did any mods, overclocking to any computer before. I have always bought off the shelf and as long as it worked I was satisfied. I recently jumped head first into my computer build without any real knowledge of what i was doing or what the outcome would be. I came out alright with only minor scrapes and bruising. I know now that i should've bought a better gpu instead of the 2 660 2gb cards, but that is a later discussion.
I'm not looking to oc the cpu yet as i let the bios oc to 4.3 and im sure that's about what my air cooling can handle. My main question right now is the RAM, ASUS only will recognize the 1600 ram as 1333. When i change it manualy to 1600 in bios it saves it but when i use the bios to auto oc the cpu it changes the mem to 1437. plus the timing on the mem should be 10-10-10 and it shows it as 9-9-9. So my question how do i get the mem to go to the full 1600 and keep the cpu at 4.3. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jade63*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New here and pretty much new to computers. I have a s^%t load of questions for the veterans and think I'm in the right place. First off a little background. I have never built or did any mods, overclocking to any computer before. I have always bought off the shelf and as long as it worked I was satisfied. I recently jumped head first into my computer build without any real knowledge of what i was doing or what the outcome would be. I came out alright with only minor scrapes and bruising. I know now that i should've bought a better gpu instead of the 2 660 2gb cards, but that is a later discussion.
> I'm not looking to oc the cpu yet as i let the bios oc to 4.3 and im sure that's about what my air cooling can handle. My main question right now is the RAM, ASUS only will recognize the 1600 ram as 1333. When i change it manualy to 1600 in bios it saves it but when i use the bios to auto oc the cpu it changes the mem to 1437. plus the timing on the mem should be 10-10-10 and it shows it as 9-9-9. So my question how do i get the mem to go to the full 1600 and keep the cpu at 4.3. Any help would be appreciated.


do it by hand
go back to stock settings.
up your cpu multi to (assuming fx8350) 21.5 ( i think that is 4300 )
you should not have to up cpu volts. make sure cpu/nb is ~ 1.2v not `.4 ( 1.4 is too much for stock but i think asus fixed thier bios.) ( on that note make sure you have the latest bios )

then up your ram to 1600 check dram volts ( match with manufactures specs. ) typical volts 1.3 1.5 1.6 1.65

then verify correct timings.

should post up a rig in rigbuilder ( upper right of this page ) will help us help you very quickly

psu is very important i hope you got a good one !~

last welcome and ask away we are here to help my friend !~

after that run a stabilty program ( can try prime but some 8350s will fail at stock. it sometimes does not play friendly with fx processors. occt or ibt-avx is good as well. but ibt-avx requires a lot of cpu core volts to be stable in. you can find it in the opening post of this

nice rig man !~ also you may be able to get ~ 4.4-4.6 on that cooler maybe 4.7 but i doubt it.

you made the right choice going custom and you wont regret it. just wait till you get your feet wet ocing and soon enough you will go full custom loop !~


----------



## smartdroid

Hi! For those of you who are running 2400mhz memory can you set it to 1T? I'm having this issue that i choose 1T and when i boot to the bios it is at 2T. It seems that this motherboard overrides my settings.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smartdroid*
> 
> Hi! For those of you who are running 2400mhz memory can you set it to 1T? I'm having this issue that i choose 1T and when i boot to the bios it is at 2T. It seems that this motherboard overrides my settings.


my gskills do the same thing.
however i can take my samsung miracle ram. and boot [email protected] 1t .


----------



## smartdroid

Thanks for your input! Just out of curiosity do you get better results with the Samsung or the gskill?


----------



## Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smartdroid*
> 
> Hi! For those of you who are running 2400mhz memory can you set it to 1T? I'm having this issue that i choose 1T and when i boot to the bios it is at 2T. It seems that this motherboard overrides my settings.


I have 32gig of G.Skill Trident 2400 installed it runs at 1T OK but I have it on 2T for better compatibility.


----------



## smartdroid

You motherboard is the first gen or rev 2.0?

edit: So I've managed to reach 1T command [email protected],, but i need to set my memory clock to 2133mhz and then raise the fsb.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smartdroid*
> 
> Thanks for your input! Just out of curiosity do you get better results with the Samsung or the gskill?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smartdroid*
> 
> You motherboard is the first gen or rev 2.0?
> 
> edit: So I've managed to reach 1T command [email protected],, but i need to set my memory clock to 2133mhz and then raise the fsb.


thanks for that ill try that.

for benching i get much better results with my sammies. i have a 9k 3dmark11 ( on the dot ) score in physics with them. i am on laptop right now but i may be able to find it later


----------



## robcowboy73

HI guy and girls I am in the market for a new mother board. I am running a sabertooth 990fx the first one and is playing up with the AMD BD 8 core chip. I was thinking the Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 or theAsus Sabertooth 990FX / GEN3 R2.0 Motherboard. I need a board thats going to be able to fit the new professor that is due out some time this year I think its called steamroller


----------



## smartdroid

Why buy a new motherboard at all? that's not much difference between them anyway, i would wait till AMD releases new chipset.


----------



## robcowboy73

I am starting a new build as my little girl Sam dam near fried her am2 so I have given it to her and am starting all over again with a clean slate as they say. I am a big fan of amd and asus I am just not to shore about the motherboard .


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> I am starting a new build as my little girl Sam dam near fried her am2 so I have given it to her and am starting all over again with a clean slate as they say. I am a big fan of amd and asus I am just not to shore about the motherboard .


id say get the r2.0 then


----------



## pastasalad

Ive just ordered a 4770k, crucial ballistix sport 1600mhz 32 gig and a gigabyte z87-hd3 mobo gotta wait till tuesday for delivery

Il put the 8350 and 16 gig ram in the other machine then i have both

Pleased about going intel

Just wondering in taskmanager will i see 8 cores because of the hyperthreading
Or 4

Also someone on here said 7.9 wei for processors with hyperthreading is that the 4 core or the 6 core tht acheives that


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastasalad*
> 
> Ive just ordered a 4770k, crucial ballistix sport 1600mhz 32 gig and a gigabyte z87-hd3 mobo gotta wait till tuesday for delivery
> 
> Il put the 8350 and 16 gig ram in the other machine then i have both
> 
> Pleased about going intel
> 
> Just wondering in taskmanager will i see 8 cores because of the hyperthreading
> Or 4
> 
> Also someone on here said 7.9 wei for processors with hyperthreading is that the 4 core or the 6 core tht acheives that


8


----------



## pastasalad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> 8


Thanks f3ers hey what do you think to my system wanna go head to head in a benchmark once i get it il have to take 2 ram sticks out though


----------



## pastasalad

Just a joke youll beat me i need to replace the stock cooler


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastasalad*
> 
> Thanks f3ers hey what do you think to my system wanna go head to head in a benchmark once i get it il have to take 2 ram sticks out though


We can worth some fun and bragging rights lol


----------



## pastasalad

Deal !


----------



## GreenGoblinGHz

Yo. Setting up a new rig (actually its setted up n using it atm. ). Test run. Saber 3gen , gpu: 1 x matrix hd 7970.
Seems very good. Very. As a single gpu. Oc'd it to 1100mhz so only a minor (no waterblock). Runs all games (crysis 3,bioshock I,Civ 5, sniper e v2, sleeping dogs,crysis.. Also leaves room for cuda "accelerator gpu and a pci-e soundcard. Using Creative Soundblaster xr (I consider r.o.g's phobia souncard..BUT..after a test drive...the 100€ cheaper (still over 100€..I think it was 110€ I paid for it) is BETTER. Too bad. Soundblaster with red leds looks good BUT phobia from rog looks POWA..sadly it aint so (imo).

Test runs : What ya want :
No bragging as I got a golden opportunity (I'm finnish btw) to test many many gpu's on sabertooths (on amd chips)







... Testin em for Finlands Summer Assembly.

As I got time (workin @ home + my son is age of 4 ... months! (get now why soundcard + headphones vulcan pro anc (-90% from card + 90 from h.phones. I can only hear the game







)

Soo.... Test wishes?
Atm. In test : Ares 2 in both sabers, matrix in single and cfx (allthou cfx seems pointless..if gonna go CFX..why not do it then with..well like xfx's dd 7970 ghz ,2 card space ..matrix is 3x).

Driving ram tests with Gskill Trident X... + some freekin weird gskills (i know they are very expensive and I got em by accident)..even with serial number I had a hard time finding em from Gskills webpage..







.... But found em and only in packs of 2 x 8Gb ..I got a pack of 4 x 8Gb..time cycle 11-11-11 30 (1300mhz).
Dont know what tha hell happend with gen2...but it boosted em to 2200mhz what I consider all-most impossible as mobos aint suppose to support that...Well offc. it was great







... On gen3 ... It didnt happend... it was 1300mhz and after the same tweak I got em to 1600 (eventhou gen3 supports 1866 with out any probs...so a dead-end. Why saber 2 boosted + had effective raid 0+1 and gen3 didnt boost ram and has more raid 0 chances to put but rly hard to tweak EFFECTIVE 0+1 (meaning you double the speed of an ssd) ...there's pics (if not I'll add em...I've sended em to kington,my reseller etc.. got a new ssd... sata cable melted







..... .....well - it was very fast.

Placed an order for Dominator platinum 1866 (4x 4Gb pack)... So will c whats what then on the ram..I want 2200 back.

Bout cpu ...only a minor oc as I'm gpu testin. A steady 4.5 with a boost to 4.7 (cooler kuhler 1220)







.. same numbers I had when I did my test with Zambezi (8150) and under public pressure switced to 8350 (I rly rly liked my 8150 n aint selling it..its a siliconvalley lottery winner..im sure







)..
Got many tests goin atm. FYI : All game tests (unless theres no possibility) are done in Eyefinity









Sincerely: Druizza


----------



## robcowboy73

I think I am going for the 990fx gen3 r2.0 as it has PCI Express 3.0 and a bit moor to offer


----------



## GreenGoblinGHz

At this point I would say offc. Better thermal, pci 3...
The tweaks for ram n raid are just to be found









The price difference is so small...

I'll say (amd point)...

Go latest T.U.F if you oc..or do smt else tha game.

Only game go Formula V

Choice in the between (got some good/some bad) .. msi evo. Good the auto-oc. I laughed my ... of when it pulled 4.8ghz me just watching..







...so it was cool... Still I would go for T.U.F 3gen or wait..... For new am3+ mobos... (some should be comin and I'm not meaning gene or hero) ..lets hope for da best


----------



## renevt

Please add me to the club

http://valid.canardpc.com/2833159

Thanks


----------



## robcowboy73

I use it for gaming surfing the web and having a chat it not for work just a bit of fun







I think I will hold off for a bit and see if asus come up with something new. This is the problem I had the last time I upgraded to the sabertooth I had it a week and then I found out about the rev2 I was going nuts for not dong my home work .


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreenGoblinGHz*
> 
> At this point I would say offc. Better thermal, pci 3...
> The tweaks for ram n raid are just to be found
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The price difference is so small...
> 
> I'll say (amd point)...
> 
> Go latest T.U.F if you oc..or do smt else tha game.
> 
> Only game go Formula V
> 
> Choice in the between (got some good/some bad) .. msi evo. Good the auto-oc. I laughed my ... of when it pulled 4.8ghz me just watching..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...so it was cool... Still I would go for T.U.F 3gen or wait..... For new am3+ mobos... (some should be comin and I'm not meaning gene or hero) ..lets hope for da best


hate to break it to you but saberkitty is a little behind CHV in Ocing capability. that said it is definitely #2 best


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> hate to break it to you but saberkitty is a little behind CHV in Ocing capability. that said it is definitely #2 best


agreed #2 best from ASUS

Hit a voltage cap on CPU @ 1.7 and CPU/NB around 1.42

CHVz will allow you to go further than that


----------



## gfiz

Can't find the gen3 anywhere for sale...am I blind, or did Asus pull them back for some reason?

Sent from my Windows 8 Phone


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> agreed #2 best from ASUS
> 
> Hit a voltage cap on CPU @ 1.7 and CPU/NB around 1.42
> 
> CHVz will allow you to go further than that


as do i


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gfiz*
> 
> Can't find the gen3 anywhere for sale...am I blind, or did Asus pull them back for some reason?
> 
> Sent from my Windows 8 Phone


interesting!
just looked for it too, frys, micro center, tigerdirect, amazon and newegg only carry the 2.0 !!!


----------



## robcowboy73

amazon uk have got gen/3 here is the link I don't now if you guys that are in the US can order from the uk http://www.amazon.co.uk/Asus-Sabertooth-Series-Processors-Socket/dp/B00BBEB2CY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371448021&sr=8-1&keywords=sabertooth+gen+3


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> amazon uk have got gen/3 here is the link I don't now if you guys that are in the US can order from the uk http://www.amazon.co.uk/Asus-Sabertooth-Series-Processors-Socket/dp/B00BBEB2CY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371448021&sr=8-1&keywords=sabertooth+gen+3


I dont think we can do so.
Quote:


> We're sorry. This item can't be shipped to your selected destination.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> I dont think we can do so.


i found us amazon for 250.. that price you might aswell get the chvz

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C0RCKY0


----------



## robcowboy73

sorry to hear that with some luck it may come down in price by the time steamroller comes out


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

200

http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=MB-SB990FG

canada mayvship

http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=26_335&item_id=059535


----------



## robcowboy73

very nice on the eyes but that price will take a big chunk out of the piggy bank .not to shore on the difference in the £ to $ is but I will be shelling out £175 over here
(not cheap)


----------



## robcowboy73

I just got it converted from UK to US and it comes out about $266.71 so it is cheaper with you


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> I just got it converted from UK to US and it comes out about $266.71 so it is cheaper with you


still not worth it imho


----------



## robcowboy73

yes I now the problem is that there isn't many MB that has the PCI-E 3 on them as Iam going for a new build for 2013/14


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> yes I now the problem is that there isn't many MB that has the PCI-E 3 on them as Iam going for a new build for 2013/14


that is pcie 3 8x which is about the same as pcie2 16x you get more bandwidth slightly but sacrifice in latency.. that is why i think asus pulled it cause no one was buying


----------



## robcowboy73

well that me stump I didn't now that but this is my week spot software I was going for that with the AMD 8350 and 2 Asus GeForce GTX 660 which need the pci-e 3 but if you can think of a better setup please do tell . I have been trying to finger out a good combo for a long time I want to stay AMD I don't like inlet and this rig is for fun and water cooling for the looks lol


----------



## El-Fuego

I got mine (2.0) for $145 (~93gbp), open box with full warranty and that's the most i'm willing to pay for a mobo, lol


----------



## AstralReaper

Do the AI Suite IIs for the R2.0 and Gen3 work on the 1st Sabertooth? My first gen has an older AI Suite listed compared to the others on ASUSs support site.


----------



## Shadowkingdark

Please add me http://valid.canardpc.com/2836174


----------



## robcowboy73

I have the first and it dos come with AI site but I couldn't tell you which it is 1 or 2 But I am willing to guess its 2 as I only updated it the other week


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> well that me stump I didn't now that but this is my week spot software I was going for that with the AMD 8350 and 2 Asus GeForce GTX 660 which need the pci-e 3 but if you can think of a better setup please do tell . I have been trying to finger out a good combo for a long time I want to stay AMD I don't like inlet and this rig is for fun and water cooling for the looks lol


no you dont pcie3 IS compatble with PCIE2 and honestly you get next to NONE in terms of benifits/increase pcie3 vs pcie2 you can stick any of those cards in any pcie2 slots and be fine. but might i add you should go ati much less moneys for better results ( my opinion )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralReaper*
> 
> Do the AI Suite IIs for the R2.0 and Gen3 work on the 1st Sabertooth? My first gen has an older AI Suite listed compared to the others on ASUSs support site.


probably it is just a program but i would add it is a very poorly coded program that consistently gives incorrect readings, slows down your system and really i recommend you dont install it, for temps i HIGHLY recommend hwinfo64 ( assuming you have 64bit if not you can easily find hwinfo32 or hwinfo from that link. for fan control there are several options that can easily be found ( speedfan in one of the more popular choices. )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowkingdark*
> 
> Please add me http://valid.canardpc.com/2836174


welcome !~


----------



## AstralReaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> probably it is just a program but i would add it is a very poorly coded program that consistently gives incorrect readings, slows down your system and really i recommend you dont install it, for temps i HIGHLY recommend hwinfo64 ( assuming you have 64bit if not you can easily find hwinfo32 or hwinfo from that link. for fan control there are several options that can easily be found ( speedfan in one of the more popular choices. )


Hwinfo64 destroys my computer if I let it read the Asus EC sensors. But I pretty much use AI Suite to control the on board fan profiles. I didn't even think of a different program being able to. So I will check those out.


----------



## GreenGoblinGHz

No kind way to say this.....
Sabertooth 1 is ...... I'll be gentle...beta with missing drivers...







....
Saber 2.. bought it.. was a HUGE upgrade... Thou shortly (2-3weeks) after saber2 I got saber 3gen... (Thou reason was Ares 2 and I wanted pci3 slots... )

Actually I rly dont c a reason for saber 3 atm. Bit too early as pci2 aint even nearly in full use..Rest changes.. well.. not anything big I can say..better thermal..bit..not the advertized but some..

Imo. I still c T.U.F board more for oc.ing than Formula V. Even with voltage locks. And I mean oc'ing overall (not gpu/cpu ... theres more tp tweak).

I nkow the problem is solved and prolly in the driver now-days. First generation 2's made raid 0 (or 0+1) useless because aitool launched NetiControl first and it took good 10sec to get rest of your starting programs to go on.. It was ez to fix if someone still has this problem. Clean it with a (DriverCleaner ex) or similar. Do the AiTool manually and set The NetiControl last. Problem solved.
I saw many threads about it and wondered.. (no offense)..but why any1 does smt automatically? (toolbars etc. all kind of nonsense).. or some small minor flaw what u can correct by manually doin it.

(at first I just took hole freekin aitool away because they took my ssd speed )

Imo. Came to this conclusion after testin each board. Formula V was good but not good enough + it had some "issues" that troubled me.. (for one..northbridge placing). The rog nonsense seemed to make 50$ of the mobo's price. Fatal1ty was ...good and terrible...I believe its good until its dead and it dies fast..seemed like a toy.. Sabertooth has a 5yr warraty and the military testing label (shock resistance etc.) so overall I'm off better with Saber 3gen (gaming or not). Got a gen2 and formula v and I wont use the V..(its goin to my wife's fb machine as I dont rly like to sell my components).

Gonna test next hero or gene ... + waiting'o'waiting for the amd3+ mobo news! C'mon..where the H.... is extreme V limited ????


----------



## Thanos1972

I use ai suite version 2 on my rev 1.01 and it works.well,at least it seems to work.of course,false readings sometimes and alarms.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreenGoblinGHz*
> 
> No kind way to say this.....
> Sabertooth 1 is ...... I'll be gentle...beta with missing drivers...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Saber 2.. bought it.. was a HUGE upgrade... Thou shortly (2-3weeks) after saber2 I got saber 3gen... (Thou reason was Ares 2 and I wanted pci3 slots... )
> 
> Actually I rly dont c a reason for saber 3 atm. Bit too early as pci2 aint even nearly in full use..Rest changes.. well.. not anything big I can say..better thermal..bit..not the advertized but some..
> 
> Imo. I still c T.U.F board more for oc.ing than Formula V. Even with voltage locks. And I mean oc'ing overall (not gpu/cpu ... theres more tp tweak).
> 
> I nkow the problem is solved and prolly in the driver now-days. First generation 2's made raid 0 (or 0+1) useless because aitool launched NetiControl first and it took good 10sec to get rest of your starting programs to go on.. It was ez to fix if someone still has this problem. Clean it with a (DriverCleaner ex) or similar. Do the AiTool manually and set The NetiControl last. Problem solved.
> I saw many threads about it and wondered.. (no offense)..but why any1 does smt automatically? (toolbars etc. all kind of nonsense).. or some small minor flaw what u can correct by manually doin it.
> 
> (at first I just took hole freekin aitool away because they took my ssd speed )
> 
> Imo. Came to this conclusion after testin each board. Formula V was good but not good enough + it had some "issues" that troubled me.. (for one..northbridge placing). The rog nonsense seemed to make 50$ of the mobo's price. Fatal1ty was ...good and terrible...I believe its good until its dead and it dies fast..seemed like a toy.. Sabertooth has a 5yr warraty and the military testing label (shock resistance etc.) so overall I'm off better with Saber 3gen (gaming or not). Got a gen2 and formula v and I wont use the V..(its goin to my wife's fb machine as I dont rly like to sell my components).
> 
> Gonna test next hero or gene ... + waiting'o'waiting for the amd3+ mobo news! C'mon..where the H.... is extreme V limited ????


i cant comment about the saber v1 but i will say i love my saber kitty this thing has been through hell. seriously i go on suicide runs and thing just does not die.
my only complaint is the 1.7v+ lockout on vcore. that is why i want chv... simple chv is made for it. i think they locked down 1.7v+vcore to make this true. if they would have unlocked it it would have been an amazing board for ocing which they wanted chv for.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i cant comment about the saber v1 but i will say i love my saber kitty this thing has been through hell. seriously i go on suicide runs and thing just does not die.
> my only complaint is the 1.7v+ lockout on vcore. that is why i want chv... simple chv is made for it. i think they locked down 1.7v+vcore to make this true. if they would have unlocked it it would have been an amazing board for ocing which they wanted chv for.


i think so too


----------



## GreenGoblinGHz

1.7 voltage lock has smt to do with the military standard. And havent tried yet on gen3 with rams...on gen2 got em to 2200mhz + oc'd 8150 and 8350 to 5k+ ..not stable thou.. For a pretty long time used 8150 @ 4.2 boost to 4.5







..

And yes.. I also have done some "suicide testing" ...no ...nothing... the freekin board WONT die!









Took h2o cooler off, had no cooler on cpu (8150) ... Started running OCCT.. bout 2min occt crashed BUT windows was on and I was able to google. The freekin cpu was passive!!!

Well... Msi Evo behaved same way when u took cooling away from cpu (its AMD ..it wont BLOW up...I have tried)

"If you want to crossfire/SLI then the Sabertooth would be better in my opinion. If you get the GEN3 model it has PCIe 3.0 and runs dual at x16 rather than x8. Also it looks cool and is a very tough board (very weighty and solid build quality). Plus the 5 year warranty is pretty hard to beat! "

Sincerely:
Druizza


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreenGoblinGHz*
> 
> 1.7 voltage lock has smt to do with the military standard. And havent tried yet on gen3 with rams...on gen2 got em to 2200mhz + oc'd 8150 and 8350 to 5k+ ..not stable thou.. For a pretty long time used 8150 @ 4.2 boost to 4.5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..
> 
> And yes.. I also have done some "suicide testing" ...no ...nothing... the freekin board WONT die!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took h2o cooler off, had no cooler on cpu (8150) ... Started running OCCT.. bout 2min occt crashed BUT windows was on and I was able to google. The freekin cpu was passive!!!
> 
> Well... Msi Evo behaved same way when u took cooling away from cpu (its AMD ..it wont BLOW up...I have tried)
> 
> "If you want to crossfire/SLI then the Sabertooth would be better in my opinion. If you get the GEN3 model it has PCIe 3.0 and runs dual at x16 rather than x8. Also it looks cool and is a very tough board (very weighty and solid build quality). Plus the 5 year warranty is pretty hard to beat! "
> 
> Sincerely:
> Druizza


the r2.0 runs @ pcie2.0 16x 16x
Quote:


> 3 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (dual x16 or x16/x8/x8)


source


----------



## AstralReaper

My r1.0 runs 2 x16 as well. Anyway you guys are making me feel bad for having a 1st Edition Sabertooth. Still love it though.


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the r2.0 runs @ pcie2.0 16x 16x
> source


that makes me wonder, because it says that it can run quad gpu crossfire or sli, so that will me like 16,16,4,4, ?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> that makes me wonder, because it says that it can run quad gpu crossfire or sli, so that will me like 16,16,4,4, ?


i dont see that if anything it would run at 16 8 4 4 but .... i dont think they do quad but i could be wrong.


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i dont see that if anything it would run at 16 8 4 4 but .... i dont think they do quad but i could be wrong.


that's what it say in the link you provided :
Quote:


> Multi-GPU Support
> Supports NVIDIA® Quad-GPU SLI™ Technology
> Supports AMD Quad-GPU CrossFireX™ Technology


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> that's what it say in the link you provided :


pretty sure you need dual gpu cards ( IE 7990 or 690 ) ( i think the 690 is the dual gpu but idk nvidia )


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> pretty sure you need dual gpu cards ( IE 7990 or 690 ) ( i think the 690 is the dual gpu but idk nvidia )


It would be 16 8 8 4 for quad


----------



## FabioMC

Hi guys.

Please. I need your help. I can boot my system only with BIOS CLEARED or MEMOK button pressed. My rig is: ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX GEN3 R2.0, FX-8350, 32GB CORSAIR CMZ32GX3M4A1866C9 (1 STICK FOR TESTING), CORSAIR H70, NVIDIA 560TI, PSU CORSAIR 850W, ALL USB AND SATA DISCONNECTED

TESTS I HAVE MADE:

1) VGA IN DIFFERENT SLOTS
2) ALL 4 DIMMS AND 1 SINGLE DIMM IN DIFFERENT SLOTS
3) RAISE VOLTAGE CPU/NB, NB, DRAM
4) FLASH LATEST BIOS
5) REMOVE CMOS BATTERY AND WAITING 1 HOUR

Whenever I clear cmos or press MEMOK button I can POST and BOOT my system (win8) via boot menu (f8) but when I restart or try to save the bios settings the system doesn't boot. I tried changing all values to AUTO, LOADING DEFAULT VALUES and manually loosing settings but no luck. DRAM and CPU led blink alternately and then the VGA led stays lit and the system doesn't boot.

Apologizes for my english. I'm from brazil


----------



## dsmwookie

Was the Gen3 R2.0 discontinued?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FabioMC*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> Please. I need your help. I can boot my system only with BIOS CLEARED or MEMOK button pressed. My rig is: ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX GEN3 R2.0, FX-8350, 32GB CORSAIR CMZ32GX3M4A1866C9 (1 STICK FOR TESTING), CORSAIR H70, NVIDIA 560TI, PSU CORSAIR 850W, ALL USB AND SATA DISCONNECTED
> 
> TESTS I HAVE MADE:
> 
> 1) VGA IN DIFFERENT SLOTS
> 2) ALL 4 DIMMS AND 1 SINGLE DIMM IN DIFFERENT SLOTS
> 3) RAISE VOLTAGE CPU/NB, NB, DRAM
> 4) FLASH LATEST BIOS
> 5) REMOVE CMOS BATTERY AND WAITING 1 HOUR
> 
> Whenever I clear cmos or press MEMOK button I can POST and BOOT my system (win8) via boot menu (f8) but when I restart or try to save the bios settings the system doesn't boot. I tried changing all values to AUTO, LOADING DEFAULT VALUES and manually loosing settings but no luck. DRAM and CPU led blink alternately and then the VGA led stays lit and the system doesn't boot.
> 
> Apologizes for my english. I'm from brazil


what bios are you on?


----------



## GreenGoblinGHz

I've run quad on saber 2 and 3. Works on both. Ran on gen2 with 4 x xfx 7970's (2 slots x 1) .. on gen3 I used my ares 2 + testing purpose lender gpu 7990. Both dual-gpu'son 16 lanes... It was weird.. I wouldnt do it unless mining purposes... Gaming..I c no point goin over crossfire. Most often single gpu is still best solution. (got a second matrix, 2x xfx's 7970's and ares 2).. I'm using 1 x matrix for gaming with full aaa and ultra setting using eyefinity and a physx accelerator. atm . 1x pci slot is take by pci-e souncard (creative xr) ...testin it..(nice red leds) ...its good...as good as rogs phobia imo.. so I wont spend 100€ extra for the rog look.. Soundblaster delivers 116db and a nice surraund with 2.1 spyro's.









So yes : you can quadfire. U can get 2 on 16/16 ... I had on gen2 ..16/16/4 (after a tweak n another.....) ...wanted 4 because it was accelerator gpu for cuda cores.







... Soon it needed tweaking constantly..so I settled that my another 7970 is like 50% (8x lane)... So the accelerator pulled it back to 16/8/8 ..on quad it was 8/8/8/8

On gen3 ... Havent been able to do that with crossfire... 3.gpu takes it to 16/8/8 straight away... Exception is 1 x ares 2 or 7990...dualgpu sticks on lane 16 and even the "accelerator" has lane 16x.. Tri-fire was...well....Dont do it







..Useless. (imo) ...Went like dualgpu was 16/16 and matrix was 4x lane...duh..







..Was rly hoping to c matrix on lane16x with a dualgpu.

If some wants some info bout gpu's,amd chips on sabertooth boards , ask freely... I answer what I have experienced.

Testin atm. ares 2, xfx dd 7970, matrix hd 7970, 7990 on single,dualno tre, and quad. Mobo saber. Cpu 8150 and 8350. Might use also some fx 6xxx series wich let open 8 cores.
Oc'ing ram on saber too. Using my Gskills (TridentX and Corsair Doninators (1866) + some weird TridentX look alikes 1300/1600 with 1.75v.. (out of 1.75v I consider very weird and the behavior of the ram has been..well..good and bad..Boosted gen2. On gen3 got only up to 1600mhz.

Cpu's are oc'd to stable. Cooling with antec kuhler 620 and 1220 .. (1220 is effective imo. + the fans in box are pretty good too.)

Also testing atm some mouses and mouseboards (glide 5 n 7, warpad) Mouses : Rat 7 n 9 (gettin 1 (dunno yet wich) ...might get strike 7 k.board but m8 has it n seems bit of money waste. Not much thou.. But still.. Good mechanicals out there..

Sincerely:
Druizza


----------



## FabioMC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> what bios are you on?


0305 before 1802 now


----------



## ceaze one

I recently moved from Connecticut to Washington, my computer is loving the cool temps here


----------



## gfiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Was the Gen3 R2.0 discontinued?


wondering the same thing.


----------



## El-Fuego

Edit : it's here on Asus website

http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/TUF_Series_Products/


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreenGoblinGHz*
> 
> I've run quad on saber 2 and 3. Works on both. Ran on gen2 with 4 x xfx 7970's (2 slots x 1) .. on gen3 I used my ares 2 + testing purpose lender gpu 7990. Both dual-gpu'son 16 lanes... It was weird.. I wouldnt do it unless mining purposes... Gaming..I c no point goin over crossfire. Most often single gpu is still best solution. (got a second matrix, 2x xfx's 7970's and ares 2).. I'm using 1 x matrix for gaming with full aaa and ultra setting using eyefinity and a physx accelerator. atm . 1x pci slot is take by pci-e souncard (creative xr) ...testin it..(nice red leds) ...its good...as good as rogs phobia imo.. so I wont spend 100€ extra for the rog look.. Soundblaster delivers 116db and a nice surraund with 2.1 spyro's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So yes : you can quadfire. U can get 2 on 16/16 ... I had on gen2 ..16/16/4 (after a tweak n another.....) ...wanted 4 because it was accelerator gpu for cuda cores.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Soon it needed tweaking constantly..so I settled that my another 7970 is like 50% (8x lane)... So the accelerator pulled it back to 16/8/8 ..*on quad it was 8/8/8/8
> *
> 
> On gen3 ... Havent been able to do that with crossfire... 3.gpu takes it to 16/8/8 straight away... Exception is 1 x ares 2 or 7990...dualgpu sticks on lane 16 and even the "accelerator" has lane 16x.. Tri-fire was...well....Dont do it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..Useless. (imo) ...Went like dualgpu was 16/16 and matrix was 4x lane...duh..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..Was rly hoping to c matrix on lane16x with a dualgpu.
> 
> If some wants some info bout gpu's,amd chips on sabertooth boards , ask freely... I answer what I have experienced.
> 
> Testin atm. ares 2, xfx dd 7970, matrix hd 7970, 7990 on single,dualno tre, and quad. Mobo saber. Cpu 8150 and 8350. Might use also some fx 6xxx series wich let open 8 cores.
> Oc'ing ram on saber too. Using my Gskills (TridentX and Corsair Doninators (1866) + some weird TridentX look alikes 1300/1600 with 1.75v.. (out of 1.75v I consider very weird and the behavior of the ram has been..well..good and bad..Boosted gen2. On gen3 got only up to 1600mhz.
> 
> Cpu's are oc'd to stable. Cooling with antec kuhler 620 and 1220 .. (1220 is effective imo. + the fans in box are pretty good too.)
> 
> Also testing atm some mouses and mouseboards (glide 5 n 7, warpad) Mouses : Rat 7 n 9 (gettin 1 (dunno yet wich) ...might get strike 7 k.board but m8 has it n seems bit of money waste. Not much thou.. But still.. Good mechanicals out there..
> 
> Sincerely:
> Druizza


(bold )
sorry but i have to call shenanigans unless you updated the pcie lanes. the last pcie slot ( dark brown on r2.0, slot 6) is only wired to 8x and the black one ( 3rd, middle one again on the r2.0 ) is only 4x it is physically impossible to mod it to 8x as they pins/traces dont exist unless you have modded it and i would have to say it would be one of the top 10 mods in the world if not the top 1 as i know no one who can solder more lanes on the pbc shy of someone who has access to the best lab in the world.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gfiz*
> 
> wondering the same thing.


doubt it probably just waiting for the new shipment or revision ( fixing some flaws


----------



## robcowboy73

I have the saber V1 and it's never given me a problem the only grip iv got is the lag for booting up


----------



## AstralReaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> I have the saber V1 and it's never given me a problem the only grip iv got is the lag for booting up


I knew there was boot lag. Never confirmed it but I always knew it. Still pretty fast boot times overall but the posting kills it even with it set to no image and 1 sec post screen.


----------



## robcowboy73

I will be honest I don't understand the it And the only time I did go in to it was to set the boot up order and this mobo will not boot up win xp I had to go out and buy a full copy of 7 as my old one is an upgrade


----------



## El-Fuego

Can someone please explain this to me :


this is My FXy build (see sig), my question is why the 2 different readings ?
I know one reading is on the mb and the other is the cpu but is it that different ? and which one is more accurate ?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> Can someone please explain this to me :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this is My FXy build (see sig), my question is why the 2 different readings ?
> I know one reading is on the mb and the other is the cpu but is it that different ? and which one is more accurate ?


package is cpu temp cpu is socket behind cpu.

use socket temp @ less then 30-40c on package over 20-40c use package.


----------



## Pakeo

I've had the first version of this board for a year and a half, no complaints. Runs great and fast as hell. The only thing I'd change is more USB 3.0 ports.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> I have the saber V1 and it's never given me a problem the only grip iv got is the lag for booting up


It lags while booting? I never noticed. I guess cause my last system was from 2001, anything seems fast to me now.

http://valid.canardpc.com/2841997


----------



## Pakeo

Double post, sorry. >_< Please remove.


----------



## Noviets

How much CPU-NB voltage can the Sabertooth R2.0 take?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> How much CPU-NB voltage can the Sabertooth R2.0 take?


mine i cant kill.... i have done some insane volts. on older bios it would auto to 1.4v

side note i now own both the saberkitty and a CHVz guys !~


----------



## Noviets

I'm currently running 1.425v, which has stabled my rig at 3.2ghz nb.

I get linear performance increases with more NB speed, so more is always better, just wondering how safe it is at 1.425 on the sabertooth r2.0.

I'll be putting a fan over the VRM's, even though I have 3x120mm fans in my heat sink, there's quite alot of airflow over them already.

I have a rear 120mm fan exhausting, would it be better if it were sucking air into the case?



Actually don't have the space to fit a fan in there, might have to get mini 20mm fans or something and fix them along it (which was what I wanted to do anyway as a big 80-90mm fan might have caused turbulence with the other fans)

I'll be going water when steamroller is out, so I can hook up bigger fans then if you guys think its needed, even if it needs a fan? How far CPU-NB voltage can I go before I should start to worry? I'm not getting any high temps from the Asus EC sensor


----------



## astrovasilis

Hi i have one question.

Cinebench says that i have now 4C 8T but i know that in order to say that i must have patched the FX. Windows say eight core.
I dont have installed any patch.

and what kind of mosfets does the sabertooth use;


----------



## smartdroid

How can i remove te CPU overvoltage error screen when i try to go above 1.6v?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smartdroid*
> 
> How can i remove te CPU overvoltage error screen when i try to go above 1.6v?
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


Go into your bios, select monitor, click on the vcore and select ignore. Cheers


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> I'm currently running 1.425v, which has stabled my rig at 3.2ghz nb.
> 
> I get linear performance increases with more NB speed, so more is always better, just wondering how safe it is at 1.425 on the sabertooth r2.0.
> 
> I'll be putting a fan over the VRM's, even though I have 3x120mm fans in my heat sink, there's quite alot of airflow over them already.
> 
> I have a rear 120mm fan exhausting, would it be better if it were sucking air into the case?
> 
> 
> 
> Actually don't have the space to fit a fan in there, might have to get mini 20mm fans or something and fix them along it (which was what I wanted to do anyway as a big 80-90mm fan might have caused turbulence with the other fans)
> 
> I'll be going water when steamroller is out, so I can hook up bigger fans then if you guys think its needed, even if it needs a fan? How far CPU-NB voltage can I go before I should start to worry? I'm not getting any high temps from the Asus EC sensor






vrm cooling is dependent on your temps however if you are using aisuite i recommend using hwinfo64 instead i have pushed 1.7v though my saberkitty np temps are the main concern and if i am honest i have pushed 1.6 through cpu/nb as well. keep cpu temp below 62c though for 24/7 use


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smartdroid*
> 
> How can i remove te CPU overvoltage error screen when i try to go above 1.6v?
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Go into your bios, select monitor, click on the vcore and select ignore. Cheers





this


----------



## kamyu

new saber owner http://valid.canardpc.com/2843885


----------



## Noviets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> vrm cooling is dependent on your temps however if you are using aisuite i recommend using hwinfo64 instead i have pushed 1.7v though my saberkitty np temps are the main concern and if i am honest i have pushed 1.6 through cpu/nb as well. keep cpu temp below 62c though for 24/7 use


So, can I push 1.5 CPUNB safely? How high can I go for 24/7? I'm wondering if I can get my NB to 3.3ghz Which I think would require around 1.54-1.56


----------



## Mega Man

safely ? more look to temps.
should you ... no


----------



## givmedew

Personally found myself limiting myself to 1.4v on custom water loop... I am the type to be a little over cautious. But I wouldn't personally run over 1.5v on air.

Not saying you can't do it but still...

I also didn't go over 1.4v on the CPU side so like I said... a little bit more cautious than some other people but I sold my thuban quite a while ago. Do some research if you can find enough people on air that say they have been running 1.55-1.6v for quite some time then go for it.

Otherwise... you may want to think twice. ...

edit

Also you said you get linear performance increases!

In what respect? I got linear performance increase from increasing my NB in regards to cache and memory read writes but not in any other benchmarks.

Do tell because I am at a loss with that one.

another edit...

also as far as cooling the VRMs front and back!!! It makes a huge difference... even more so on air than on water... It will decrease your CPU temps significantly.


I only ran one fan on water but before I ran 2 up front and one in the back when I was on air.


not a sabertooth but an easy way to run 2 fans

I didn't post my finding on 1366 because plenty of other people did but that is def not a waste of time and water cooling the VRMs is a huge deal...

So my conclusion would be: try to cool the VRMs on every OC'd build you do because some make a huge difference.

some finding I had when cooling sabertooth VRMs (worth every bit of effort)
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=704735&highlight=vrm

some findings when cooling VRMs on an 1155 board (waste of time)
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=720295&highlight=vrm


----------



## Noviets

I was wanting to stick a fan over my VRM's but the problem with the air cooler I have now is its absolutely huge, I cant fit a fan in there just yet. Perhaps if I got a smaller fan like those, or glued a few togeather in a row that would work.

Edit: Something like these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/K1BO-3-Pin-40mm-Computer-CPU-Cooler-Cooling-Fan-PC-4cm-40x40x10mm-DC-12V-/251269308342?pt=US_Computer_Case_Fans&hash=item3a80d15fb6

Question, is there some kind of splitter I can get some one smart fan controller can control a bunch of them simultaneously?

I guess I could buy the normal splitter cables, the 1>2 adapter and just wire a bunch of them up?


----------



## givmedew

Just look at the current requirement for the fan... it is going to be very low... You can wire several of them together and run them from your motherboard.

That said http://xsfans.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=777 would be a much better fan and since it is PWM based you will have much more control over it's speed. Also PWM fans split much easier and more reliably. Also if you are worried about the current the use you could buy a PWM splitter that gets the power from 12v molex which means it doesn't matter how much current the fans need as the only thing going to the motherboard is the PWM wire and the RPM wire.

The fan I linked is 15MM thick so keep that in mind.

Your other option which works VERY VERY VERY well is to cool the backside of the motherboard with a 80-120MM fan.

On the back of the motherboard there is a black plate... if you ever touch this plate while the CPU is under load you will have wished you did not touch the plate. Large amount of high speed air between this area and the back of the CPU socket will greatly reduce the VRM and CPU temps...

I don't really think cooling the socket backplate is what matters but I would recommend that you use a 3000-5000RPM 80MM (not 60 and not 120) as close to the board as possible centered between the black plate and CPU socket backside.

If you have to cut a hole in the side of your case then just do it... if you have a ton of room back there believe it or not it should be enough for the fan to get some air into it and then shove it onto the motherboard.

If you can fit a 40x10 or 40x15 I don't see why you cant fit a 50x10 or 50x15

To give you an idea http://www.ebay.com/itm/Evercool-EC5010M12CA-50mm-x-50mm-x-10mm-3-Pin-Tachometer-Ball-Bearing-CPU-fan-/300861049193?pt=US_CPU_Fans_Heatsinks&hash=item460cb74969

Is only 10mm thick 500RPM slower than the Delta 40x15 and makes 10CFM instead of the 7CFM the delta makes... It will make less noise and flow more air.

Eventually bigger fans (over 60MM) wont really cool better by much and I would say over 80 is pointless because you are no longer directing the air at the heatsink unless you put an 80 in the corner of the 2 heatsinks.

So do some thinking and try to figure out what you can fit.

Evercool and Delta are good brands... be careful with some of the others... you may be buying a fan that just spins a little bit but doesn't actually move any air. Those Delta fans are typically used in rack mount server equipment like switches. So they are usually made to do some heavy lifting.

The PWM Delta fans are going to be the best. You can spin them very slow and you can spin them very high... the PWM control will give you the widest range of control and you can typically run at least 5 PWM fans off a single PWM signal. Usually more but the PWM signal can get out of range sometimes but not usually. Just keep in mind there are 2 types of PWM splitters... there are ones that just split the fans up run the PWM signal to all the fans the 12v to all the fans and the rpm from one of the fans. Then there is the better way of doing it but def not necisarry for those little fans and that is the PWM splitter that has a molex plug on it. The fans will pull 12v from the molex not the motherboard the rest is the same.

PWM fans are not controlled by the voltage so no need to get the voltage from the motherboard.


----------



## Noviets

Will hooking 3x 3 pin splitters so 1>2>4 and run 4 fans off the one fan controller off the MB? Or would it be better to get an 4pin Molex to 3 pin fan adapter?


----------



## El-Fuego

I'm having some problems with the sound
for the past month i've been using HDMI so the sound is coming out of the graphics card
today I decided to try my Turtle Beach and all i hear is weird static like noise!
I tried couple other headsets and the same!
I tried both the back and front (case) panels with no luck, I removed the driver (the one came with the cd) and downloaded a new one from asus and the same!

when i turn off the PC or restart the static stops, not sure if it's a hardware issue or software,
I checked all the volume levels and all at max, nothing muted, some times i can hear the music playing behind all the static but it's really faint.
and the mic or line in are not working either!

don't really want to go with the RMA headache now


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> I'm having some problems with the sound
> for the past month i've been using HDMI so the sound is coming out of the graphics card
> today I decided to try my Turtle Beach and all i hear is weird static like noise!
> I tried couple other headsets and the same!
> I tried both the back and front (case) panels with no luck, I removed the driver (the one came with the cd) and downloaded a new one from asus and the same!
> 
> when i turn off the PC or restart the static stops, not sure if it's a hardware issue or software,
> I checked all the volume levels and all at max, nothing muted, some times i can hear the music playing behind all the static but it's really faint.
> and the mic or line in are not working either!
> 
> don't really want to go with the RMA headache now


check the options in windows and make sure wave is not tuned up. If I remember correctly


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> check the options in windows and make sure wave is not tuned up. If I remember correctly


how can I find that ?
I went through all the controls panel settings


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> how can I find that ?
> I went through all the controls panel settings


http://www.sevenforums.com/sound-audio/137449-advanced-audio-settings-controls.html


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> http://www.sevenforums.com/sound-audio/137449-advanced-audio-settings-controls.html


thanks mate, I'll try that when i get back home.


----------



## El-Fuego

No change, I tried every option with no luck








Gonna try Ubuntu now, if it's working there then i can say it's a windows/driver problem not a hardware one.

If it's infact a Hardware problem not software not sure if I should RMA it or simply get audio card ?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> No change, I tried every option with no luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna try Ubuntu now, if it's working there then i can say it's a windows/driver problem not a hardware one.
> 
> If it's infact a Hardware problem not software not sure if I should RMA it or simply get audio card ?


lame that up to you but is grounds for RMA


----------



## Mega Man

i can not believe how many bots are getting though recently ....


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i can not believe how many bots are getting though recently ....


Right I was looking at that


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> lame that up to you but is grounds for RMA


Not sure if typo or slang, are you saying I should RMA ?
It didnt work with ubuntu







, I never RMA(ed) anything before, will I stay without MB for a while or they gonna send me a replacement before I send mine ?

thanks


----------



## Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> Not sure if typo or slang, are you saying I should RMA ?
> It didnt work with ubuntu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I never RMA(ed) anything before, will I stay without MB for a while or they gonna send me a replacement before I send mine ?
> 
> thanks


Hmm... you might be able to get an Advanced Replacement. This is where they put a hold for the price of the motherboard on your credit card and send you a new motherboard before you send yours in. Once you get the new motherboard, you send the defective motherboard back and they will release the hold on your credit card. In the event you do not send it back, the hold will turn into a charge.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> Not sure if typo or slang, are you saying I should RMA ?
> It didnt work with ubuntu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I never RMA(ed) anything before, will I stay without MB for a while or they gonna send me a replacement before I send mine ?
> 
> thanks


sorry was on my phone when I typed it still not used to it..

If you uninstalled then reinstalled the drivers and it still didn't work then yeah you would get a RMA although minor and you could get an after market soundcard it is still part of the board that is under the warranty

I am on my 3rd saber first on the sound stopped working kinda like yours but no static
the second DOA
The 3rd time seems to be the charm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fegelein*
> 
> Hmm... you might be able to get an Advanced Replacement. This is where they put a hold for the price of the motherboard on your credit card and send you a new motherboard before you send yours in. Once you get the new motherboard, you send the defective motherboard back and they will release the hold on your credit card. In the event you do not send it back, the hold will turn into a charge.


^^^this


----------



## GreenGoblinGHz

Its modified saber 2gen. easiest quadfire what I c is ares 2 with the top off and a 7990 under..(wont fit unless you wont take the top off...as wont 2 x ares2's either (eventhou its claimed u can CFX Ares 2 in new am3+ mobos.. its still needs the top off from the another card.)

About that test with formula V and saber 3gen can be found @ tomsharware threads

Sincerely : Druizza


----------



## El-Fuego

thanks guys, I'll try to contact Asus today and see what they can do for me.


----------



## LoneWolf3574

I recently decided to upgrade the family computer (Fastback 'Cuda) using a spare Sabertooth 990FX with a 1100T cpu I have on hand. After I had gotten everything put together and turned the power on, nothing, all I got was a solid red cpu LED and a cpu fan going full speed, not even a POST beep. I took the motherboard down to the cpu, gpu and a single ram stick, still no POST, just the solid red LED for the cpu. I plugged in a spare PSU into the motherboard and put my spare 965BE, still nothing. As a final desperate attempt, I pulled everything off the motherboard except for the cpu, hoping for a POST beep of some kind, nothing at all. I'm thinking something happened to the motherboard as it was working when I tore it down to build my main rig. I'm open to reasonable suggestions and ideas before I try to RMA this guy.

EDIT -
In conclusion - No POST period! Solid red CPU LED at all times!
- Breadboarded (cpu, gpu & 1 ram stick only, usb mouse & keyboard)
- Swapped cpu
- Swapped psu
- CPU only, checking for POST beep

EDIT 2 -
I failed to mention that I tried resetting the CMOS using both the jumper and MEMOK! with no success either.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LoneWolf3574*
> 
> I recently decided to upgrade the family computer (Fastback 'Cuda) using a spare Sabertooth 990FX with a 1100T cpu I have on hand. After I had gotten everything put together and turned the power on, nothing, all I got was a solid red cpu LED and a cpu fan going full speed, not even a POST beep. I took the motherboard down to the cpu, gpu and a single ram stick, still no POST, just the solid red LED for the cpu. I plugged in a spare PSU into the motherboard and put my spare 965BE, still nothing. As a final desperate attempt, I pulled everything off the motherboard except for the cpu, hoping for a POST beep of some kind, nothing at all. I'm thinking something happened to the motherboard as it was working when I tore it down to build my main rig. I'm open to reasonable suggestions and ideas before I try to RMA this guy.
> 
> EDIT -
> In conclusion - No POST period! Solid red CPU LED at all times!
> - Breadboarded (cpu, gpu & 1 ram stick only, usb mouse & keyboard)
> - Swapped cpu
> - Swapped psu
> - CPU only, checking for POST beep
> 
> EDIT 2 -
> I failed to mention that I tried resetting the CMOS using both the jumper and MEMOK! with no success either.


have you tried updating bios?


----------



## LoneWolf3574

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> have you tried updating bios?


Can that be done if the system won't POST? When I say it won't POST, I mean absolutely zilch, the fans come on (cpu full speed), nothing else and nothing on the monitor.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LoneWolf3574*
> 
> Can that be done if the system won't POST? When I say it won't POST, I mean absolutely zilch, the fans come on (cpu full speed), nothing else and nothing on the monitor.


Try the Jump to BIOS button I can't remember what it is called.. The LED is 1 of 3 things.. The button is called Directkey

1, board is toast
2. cpu is toast
3. not enough power

A bios update if you can manage to get it done may affect the readings of 1-3

http://rog.asus.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/sabertooth-990fx-r2-directkey.jpg

or worse case you can pull the BIOS chip out of the other saber and put it into that saber to see if it is the board.. if you still get the same error then the board is bad after that


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LoneWolf3574*
> 
> Can that be done if the system won't POST? When I say it won't POST, I mean absolutely zilch, the fans come on (cpu full speed), nothing else and nothing on the monitor.


yes
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Try the Jump to BIOS button I can't remember what it is called.. The LED is 1 of 3 things.. The button is called Directkey
> 
> 1, board is toast
> 2. cpu is toast
> 3. not enough power
> 
> A bios update if you can manage to get it done may affect the readings of 1-3
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/sabertooth-990fx-r2-directkey.jpg


no on dirctkey, you want to use Bios Flashback
Source ( paqe 2-12 )


Spoiler: How to use bios flashback on saberkitty r2.0 please note you have to use a fat 32 formatted usb and you have to RENAME the bios file on the main directory!!!!!



2.2
BIOS update utility
USB BIOS Flashback
USB BIOS Flashback allows you to easily update the BIOS without entering the existing
BIOS or operating system. Simply insert a USB storage device to the USB port, press the
USB BIOS Flashback button for three seconds, and the BIOS is updated automatically.
To use USB BIOS Flashback:
1.
Place the bundled support DVD to the optical drive and install the USB BIOS
Flashback Wizard. Follow the onscreen instructions to complete the installation.
You can also download the BIOS from ASUS official website
www.asus.com
. Rename the
file as
ST990R20.CAP
, and save it in the root directory of a USB storage device.
2.
Insert the USB storage device to the USB Flashback port.
3.
Launch the USB BIOS Flashback Wizard to automatically download the lat
est BIOS
version.
4.
Press the BIOS Flashback button for three seconds until a flashing light ap
pears, which
indicates that the BIOS Flashback function is enabled.
5.
Wait until the light goes out, indicating that the BIOS updating process is completed.
For more BIOS update utilities in BIOS setup, refer to the section
3.10
Updating BIOS
.
•
Do not unplug portable disk, power system, or press the CLR_CMOS button while
BIOS update is ongoing, otherwise update will be interrupted. In case of interruption,
please follow the steps again.
•
If the light flashes for five seconds and turns into a solid light, this means that the
If the light flashes for five seconds and turns into a solid light, this means that the
BIOS Flashback is not operating properly. This may be caused by improper installation
of the USB storage device and filename/file format error. If this scenario happens,
please restart the system to turn off the light.
•
Updating BIOS may have risks. If the BIOS program is damaged during the process
Updating BIOS may have risks. If the BIOS program is damaged during the process
and results to the system's failure to boot up, please contact your local ASUS Service
Center



if you need to do it to another board you need to open that board manual and find bios flashback with in that manual.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes
> no on dirctkey, you want to use Bios Flashback
> Source ( paqe 2-12 )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: How to use bios flashback on saberkitty r2.0 please note you have to use a fat 32 formatted usb and you have to RENAME the bios file on the main directory!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 2.2
> BIOS update utility
> USB BIOS Flashback
> USB BIOS Flashback allows you to easily update the BIOS without entering the existing
> BIOS or operating system. Simply insert a USB storage device to the USB port, press the
> USB BIOS Flashback button for three seconds, and the BIOS is updated automatically.
> To use USB BIOS Flashback:
> 1.
> Place the bundled support DVD to the optical drive and install the USB BIOS
> Flashback Wizard. Follow the onscreen instructions to complete the installation.
> You can also download the BIOS from ASUS official website
> www.asus.com
> . Rename the
> file as
> ST990R20.CAP
> , and save it in the root directory of a USB storage device.
> 2.
> Insert the USB storage device to the USB Flashback port.
> 3.
> Launch the USB BIOS Flashback Wizard to automatically download the lat
> est BIOS
> version.
> 4.
> Press the BIOS Flashback button for three seconds until a flashing light ap
> pears, which
> indicates that the BIOS Flashback function is enabled.
> 5.
> Wait until the light goes out, indicating that the BIOS updating process is completed.
> For more BIOS update utilities in BIOS setup, refer to the section
> 3.10
> Updating BIOS
> .
> •
> Do not unplug portable disk, power system, or press the CLR_CMOS button while
> BIOS update is ongoing, otherwise update will be interrupted. In case of interruption,
> please follow the steps again.
> •
> If the light flashes for five seconds and turns into a solid light, this means that the
> If the light flashes for five seconds and turns into a solid light, this means that the
> BIOS Flashback is not operating properly. This may be caused by improper installation
> of the USB storage device and filename/file format error. If this scenario happens,
> please restart the system to turn off the light.
> •
> Updating BIOS may have risks. If the BIOS program is damaged during the process
> Updating BIOS may have risks. If the BIOS program is damaged during the process
> and results to the system's failure to boot up, please contact your local ASUS Service
> Center
> 
> 
> 
> if you need to do it to another board you need to open that board manual and find bios flashback with in that manual.


Your right I failed to remember that +1 my way is also another method too


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Your right I failed to remember that +1 my way is also another method too


if he cant post, he cant use the direct key


----------



## budzos

Does anybody here have a extra I/O shield for a Sabertooth 990 Rev. 1.1. I just picked one up at Geeks.com for 79 bucks but it did not come with one.
Thanks, budzos


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes
> no on dirctkey, you want to use Bios Flashback
> Source ( paqe 2-12 )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: How to use bios flashback on saberkitty r2.0 please note you have to use a fat 32 formatted usb and you have to RENAME the bios file on the main directory!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 2.2
> BIOS update utility
> USB BIOS Flashback
> USB BIOS Flashback allows you to easily update the BIOS without entering the existing
> BIOS or operating system. Simply insert a USB storage device to the USB port, press the
> USB BIOS Flashback button for three seconds, and the BIOS is updated automatically.
> To use USB BIOS Flashback:
> 1.
> Place the bundled support DVD to the optical drive and install the USB BIOS
> Flashback Wizard. Follow the onscreen instructions to complete the installation.
> You can also download the BIOS from ASUS official website
> www.asus.com
> . Rename the
> file as
> ST990R20.CAP
> , and save it in the root directory of a USB storage device.
> 2.
> Insert the USB storage device to the USB Flashback port.
> 3.
> Launch the USB BIOS Flashback Wizard to automatically download the lat
> est BIOS
> version.
> 4.
> Press the BIOS Flashback button for three seconds until a flashing light ap
> pears, which
> indicates that the BIOS Flashback function is enabled.
> 5.
> Wait until the light goes out, indicating that the BIOS updating process is completed.
> For more BIOS update utilities in BIOS setup, refer to the section
> 3.10
> Updating BIOS
> .
> •
> Do not unplug portable disk, power system, or press the CLR_CMOS button while
> BIOS update is ongoing, otherwise update will be interrupted. In case of interruption,
> please follow the steps again.
> •
> If the light flashes for five seconds and turns into a solid light, this means that the
> If the light flashes for five seconds and turns into a solid light, this means that the
> BIOS Flashback is not operating properly. This may be caused by improper installation
> of the USB storage device and filename/file format error. If this scenario happens,
> please restart the system to turn off the light.
> •
> Updating BIOS may have risks. If the BIOS program is damaged during the process
> Updating BIOS may have risks. If the BIOS program is damaged during the process
> and results to the system's failure to boot up, please contact your local ASUS Service
> Center
> 
> 
> 
> if you need to do it to another board you need to open that board manual and find bios flashback with in that manual.


i once had THE SAME PROBLEM as the dude above claims...

my solution: *pulled out the bios chip and send it to an electronics store, with a bios file on a flash drive, and had it reprogramed...*

i tried a lot of stuff... even ordered a new bios chip directly from asus (surprisingly, i had the new chip in my hands like en 4 business days, and i live in venezuela)...


----------



## LoneWolf3574

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Try the Jump to BIOS button I can't remember what it is called.. The LED is 1 of 3 things.. The button is called Directkey
> 
> 1, board is toast
> 2. cpu is toast
> 3. not enough power
> 
> A bios update if you can manage to get it done may affect the readings of 1-3
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/sabertooth-990fx-r2-directkey.jpg
> 
> or worse case you can pull the BIOS chip out of the other saber and put it into that saber to see if it is the board.. if you still get the same error then the board is bad after that


The first one (the one with the issue) is a Sabertooth 990fx, the second one is a Sabertooth 990fx Gen3/Rev2.0, their BIOS are incompable. Only the second one has the button you're talking about, the first does not unfortunately.


----------



## Mega Man

ah that sucks man sorry


----------



## headmixer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *budzos*
> 
> Does anybody here have a extra I/O shield for a Sabertooth 990 Rev. 1.1. I just picked one up at Geeks.com for 79 bucks but it did not come with one.
> Thanks, budzos


You can get one here. (ASUS eStore)
http://us.estore.asus.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4377


----------



## SR-71 Blackbird

My Setup:

http://valid.canardpc.com/2839768


----------



## mxthunder

setup a raid 0 array last night with three 80gb old sata 1 hard drives. I was pretty impressed with the .5 1 and 2k numbers..


----------



## budzos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *headmixer*
> 
> You can get one here. (ASUS eStore)
> http://us.estore.asus.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4377


Thanks headmixer, I was hoping to find one a bit cheaper but its another option,
budzos


----------



## Cores

You may count me in now.


----------



## Mega Man

welcome


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fegelein*
> 
> You may count me in now.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> welcome


I thought he had the first gen and now moved to 2.0!
anyway, welcome


----------



## Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> I thought he had the first gen and now moved to 2.0!
> anyway, welcome


Nope, this will be my first 990FX Sabertooth.








Thanks for the welcome.


----------



## N6REJ

OK SO i AM TOOOOTALLLY OVERWHELMED...
I'm trying to get a new MB for my FX-8320 cause the asus I had died after only 6 weeks of non-oc .( m578-usb3)

I've got a 750W psu , 16G mushkin ram, soon a used ( EVGA Gtx 550 ti SC, with a Gelid icy revision 2 air cooler on it.)

People are giving me mixed impressions on which board to buy. The crosshair is at the extreme end of my budget ( over budget really )
what is the diff between these boards http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100006519%2050001315%2040000022%20600138080%20600166242&IsNodeId=1&bop=And&CompareItemList=22%7C13-131-877%5E13-131-877-TS%2C13-128-509%5E13-128-509-TS%2C13-128-514%5E13-128-514-TS%2C13-131-876%5E13-131-876-TS%2C13-131-969%5E13-131-969-TS&percm=13-131-877%3A%24%24%24%24%24%24%24%3B13-131-876%3A%24%24%24%24%24%24%24%3B13-131-969%3A%24%24%24%24%24%24%24 from a practical stand point.
I HATE MSI from my experiences in the late 90's.

note: if it matters I'm not a heavy OC, infact this would be my first time oc'n ever....
I typically run 12-20 chrome tabs, PS 5, skype, TS3, thunderbird, wamp, netbeans and maybe one or two other programs simultaneously all day.
I do play a couple of games, one of which is swtor
thanks in advance.

I asked in vishera group but didn't get very far
someone please help this dinosaur before I loose what little hair I have left.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N6REJ*
> 
> OK SO i AM TOOOOTALLLY OVERWHELMED...
> I'm trying to get a new MB for my FX-8320 cause the asus I had died after only 6 weeks of non-oc .( m578-usb3)
> 
> I've got a 750W psu , 16G mushkin ram, soon a used ( EVGA Gtx 550 ti SC, with a Gelid icy revision 2 air cooler on it.)
> 
> People are giving me mixed impressions on which board to buy. The crosshair is at the extreme end of my budget ( over budget really )
> what is the diff between these boards http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100006519%2050001315%2040000022%20600138080%20600166242&IsNodeId=1&bop=And&CompareItemList=22%7C13-131-877%5E13-131-877-TS%2C13-128-509%5E13-128-509-TS%2C13-128-514%5E13-128-514-TS%2C13-131-876%5E13-131-876-TS%2C13-131-969%5E13-131-969-TS&percm=13-131-877%3A%24%24%24%24%24%24%24%3B13-131-876%3A%24%24%24%24%24%24%24%3B13-131-969%3A%24%24%24%24%24%24%24 from a practical stand point.
> I HATE MSI from my experiences in the late 90's.
> 
> note: if it matters I'm not a heavy OC, infact this would be my first time oc'n ever....
> I typically run 12-20 chrome tabs, PS 5, skype, TS3, thunderbird, wamp, netbeans and maybe one or two other programs simultaneously all day.
> I do play a couple of games, one of which is swtor
> thanks in advance.
> 
> I asked in vishera group but didn't get very far
> someone please help this dinosaur before I loose what little hair I have left.


go with the ud3 ud5 or saber r2.0

itvis like this ud3 < (ud5 <= saber r2.0) hope that helps


----------



## N6REJ

saber 2 > saber 2 gen3?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N6REJ*
> 
> saber 2 > saber 2 gen3?


you wont be using the gen3 for the pcie3 lanes so 2 is a better deal


----------



## N6REJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> you wont be using the gen3 for the pcie3 lanes so 2 is a better deal


why is that? I'm not objecting just trying to understand. I do have another video card coming but I don't know when it will be here nor what one it will be as i'm rma'n my xfx 4770 and don't know what they will send back.

oh, and this board will need to last 3-5yrs.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N6REJ*
> 
> why is that? I'm not objecting just trying to understand. I do have another video card coming but I don't know when it will be here nor what one it will be as i'm rma'n my xfx 4770 and don't know what they will send back.
> 
> oh, and this board will need to last 3-5yrs.


they come with 5 year warranties.. and even 3 7970s still wont use the bandwidth also there is latency as pcie3 is not native to amd howver it does not matter as pcie 8x = pcie2 16x again you wont see a difference so there is no point to spend the extra money


----------



## Pudfark

saber 2 and put the 20 bucks you saved towards a tornado shelter.

I just stepped up to the same from a ud3 giggle board.

To clarify 990FX Sabertooth R2.

It's too soon imho for the Gen 3 boards.

Stay safe in Oklahoma....


----------



## N6REJ

hehehe, yeah, couple came to close to my mom this year.. we were @ the ragged edge so other then broken tree branches we came out fine


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> setup a raid 0 array last night with three 80gb old sata 1 hard drives. I was pretty impressed with the .5 1 and 2k numbers..


re did my setup with a 4th drive. not bad gains by adding another. I am still blown away by the .5k numbers.


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N6REJ*
> 
> why is that? I'm not objecting just trying to understand. I do have another video card coming but I don't know when it will be here nor what one it will be as i'm rma'n my xfx 4770 and don't know what they will send back.
> 
> oh, and this board will need to last 3-5yrs.


I would get the Sabertooth R2.0, in my opinion it can't be beat for the price and it's a high quality board. You wont regret getting it.


----------



## Cores

Just arrived!


----------



## robcowboy73

sweet I will be ordering one of an 990fx R 2.0 at the end of this month I just hope all go's to plan.
I am hoping to run some water cooling over that bad boy if I can find the wright blocks to control the heat a bit moor


----------



## robcowboy73

sweet I will be ordering one of an 990fx R 2.0 at the end of this month I just hope all go's to plan.
I am hoping to run some water cooling over that bad boy if I can find the wright blocks to control the heat a bit moor


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fegelein*
> 
> Just arrived!


congrats! welcome to the club
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> sweet I will be ordering one of an 990fx R 2.0 at the end of this month I just hope all go's to plan.
> I am hoping to run some water cooling over that bad boy if I can find the wright blocks to control the heat a bit moor


Yeah you'll probably need it, these boards can get hot,

talking about heat, how hot your VCore-1 can get ? when folding my temps are in the 60s, idle 40something.


----------



## CannedBullets

I just installed my 990FX R2 GEN3 into my new case, I'll put the rest of it tomorrow. Anyways does the Sabertooth 990FX R2/GEN3 have any ESD protection at all?

I took the precaution of grounding myself by touching my PC (plugged into the wall) and touching the case I'm installing it into before I opened the motherboard. I was working barefoot on hardwood floor also but I'm not sure if that was enough. I'm just asking because I would hate to kill my new $200 board with ESD and have to wait a week or two to get it back from Newegg.


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> I just installed my 990FX R2 GEN3 into my new case, I'll put the rest of it tomorrow. Anyways does the Sabertooth 990FX R2/GEN3 have any ESD protection at all?
> 
> I took the precaution of grounding myself by touching my PC (plugged into the wall) and touching the case I'm installing it into before I opened the motherboard. I was working barefoot on hardwood floor also but I'm not sure if that was enough. I'm just asking because I would hate to kill my new $200 with ESD and have to wait a week or two to get it back from Newegg.


not sure, I did the same, I was barefoot and kept touching the walls to ground myself.


----------



## CannedBullets

How long does it take to connect to the server to upgrade the BIOS for a Sabertooth 990FX GEN3/R2? I'm using AI Suite to update it and its taking forever to connect to a server.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> How long does it take to connect to the server to upgrade the BIOS for a Sabertooth 990FX GEN3/R2? I'm using AI Suite to update it and its taking forever to connect to a server.


I always download to usb n flash from bios its a bit faster


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> How long does it take to connect to the server to upgrade the BIOS for a Sabertooth 990FX GEN3/R2? I'm using AI Suite to update it and its taking forever to connect to a server.


download the latest bios from ASUS manually, then use AI Suite to flash it if you want to use that way


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> download the latest bios from ASUS manually, then use AI Suite to flash it if you want to use that way


Yeah that's what I did. It worked as intended, no problems.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> How long does it take to connect to the server to upgrade the BIOS for a Sabertooth 990FX GEN3/R2? I'm using AI Suite to update it and its taking forever to connect to a server.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Yeah that's what I did. It worked as intended, no problems.


it has never worked for me. ai suite is very very buggy


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it has never worked for me. ai suite is very very buggy


Well the connecting to the server didn't work for me so I just downloaded the updated BIOs from Asus's website and used AI Suite to install off of it.


----------



## Mega Man

i dont trust a program proven to be flooded with bugs to update my bios


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i dont trust a program proven to be flooded with bugs to update my bios


Yeah its glitchy as hell, after I got my bios installed I uninstalled the update utility and a lot of other things from AI Suite because I kept getting some weird windows popup (forgot the name) which was caused by it.


----------



## CannedBullets

Hey, did anyone else's Sabertooth automatically clock their RAM at 1333 mhz? It did that for my DDR3-1600 RAM.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Hey, did anyone else's Sabertooth automatically clock their RAM at 1333 mhz? It did that for my DDR3-1600 RAM.


it does it to my 1866 I think its just a stock setting


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Hey, did anyone else's Sabertooth automatically clock their RAM at 1333 mhz? It did that for my DDR3-1600 RAM.


most motherboards ( if not all ) do it, there is a name for that default setting but i can never remember it.


----------



## robcowboy73

funny you shod say that I just rebooted my one with new hard drive and the same thing is happening to me I now I payed for Kingston hyper x 16gb at 1600 hurts and now it is 1333 hurts I had to dig the box out to check and I am not to shore haw to fix it I go in and let AI sort it out when I put it on the high setting ie gaming. I am going to have to learn haw to set it up my self instead of trusting AI to do it for me:doh:


----------



## Cores

Up and running.









http://valid.canardpc.com/2862948

*Note* this is NOT my sig rig. My sig rig is how my current build should be at the end of 2013.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> funny you shod say that I just rebooted my one with new hard drive and the same thing is happening to me I now I payed for Kingston hyper x 16gb at 1600 hurts and now it is 1333 hurts I had to dig the box out to check and I am not to shore haw to fix it I go in and let AI sort it out when I put it on the high setting ie gaming. I am going to have to learn haw to set it up my self instead of trusting AI to do it for me:doh:


go to bios scroll down to dram frequency you will see it on auto hit+ till you see your speed boom.... or bios see over clock setting change it from auto toD.O.C.P make sure to then bump to rated ram speed then booom

rep eh?


----------



## wiak

have anyone else notice that the temp warning in Thermal Rader is WAY to low on PCI Express?
60c is way to low, when a graphics card can go over 100c


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiak*
> 
> have anyone else notice that the temp warning in Thermal Rader is WAY to low on PCI Express?
> 60c is way to low, when a graphics card can go over 100c


your mobo should never reach 60c at the pcie though


----------



## robcowboy73

the max I have seen my one at is 40 c and that is at the CPU on the standard cooler and I lost 10 c when I put the arctic one on it with the MX5 past

I am not to shore which mid to top end graphics card will work with the 990FX - R 2 board. I have a round £150-£200 which is about $300 I think. and I just notice it is PCI-E 3
I was thinking of Asus Nvidia GeForce 2GB GTX 670 which comes in around £170
I need to thing 1 A card that will work well and 2 I will wan't to put it in a water cooled loop

All help would be grateful


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> the max I have seen my one at is 40 c and that is at the CPU on the standard cooler and I lost 10 c when I put the arctic one on it with the MX5 past
> 
> I am not to shore which mid to top end graphics card will work with the 990FX - R 2 board. I have a round £150-£200 which is about $300 I think. and I just notice it is PCI-E 3
> I was thinking of Asus Nvidia GeForce 2GB GTX 670 which comes in around £170
> I need to thing 1 A card that will work well and 2 I will wan't to put it in a water cooled loop
> 
> All help would be grateful


any graphics card.. and only r2 gen3 has it.. also pcie3 is bsckwards compatible


----------



## robcowboy73

I understand that PCI-E 3 can go back but what I am trying to say is there a card that will do moor for my £££ than going for a card that will need to go back and run slower so my motherboard can keep up with it the card may be older but run smoother if you cache my drift
I an going for the R2 but I don't need an R2 Gen 3 as I am not a big gamer . The most demanding game I have at the moment is Euro Truck 2 Not a fast game but quite demanding on graphics


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Just got my board and processor up and running yesterday....

CPUID


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> I understand that PCI-E 3 can go back but what I am trying to say is there a card that will do moor for my £££ than going for a card that will need to go back and run slower so my motherboard can keep up with it the card may be older but run smoother if you cache my drift
> I an going for the R2 but I don't need an R2 Gen 3 as I am not a big gamer . The most demanding game I have at the moment is Euro Truck 2 Not a fast game but quite demanding on graphics


PCIe 2 x16 = PCIe 3 8x .... so you are not going to see a difference in performance unless you quadfire or QUad SLI even then it will be margin of error at best

So just pick a card that is the better bang for your buck

Here is the performance
R2 = R2 Gen 3..

What you are asking is what vid cards.. Right now the 7970 or 770 are the best valued cards for their power but that is top end..

What do you do with your computer as there are many options to go for


----------



## Nobsod35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Motherboards:
> 
> ASUS Sabertooth 990FX
> 
> ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2
> 
> ASUS Sabertooth 990FX/GEN 3 R2
> 
> 
> Requirements to gain Verified status:
> Must have a Cpu-z validation matching your OCN username
> 
> follow all OCN rulles
> and please stay relativly on topic*
> 
> * If it portains to your motherboard, overclock, system in general, or a question about a previous post or a question about the motherboard in general its ok, but just to make a point this thread isnt where you tell everybody what your dog had for lunch today
> 
> Click here to add yourself to the owners list
> 
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AuRCaZr2OwCTdFhCTFQ4WUxhd2pRbjJPSklaeURiZXc&output=html&widget=true
> 
> Important notes:
> There is a clear sticker over the south bridge heat sync that may be unseen but its there be sure to remove it as it holds in heat!!!
> 
> Windows 8 drivers for Sabertooth R1:
> 
> JMicron Controller Driver:
> ftp://driver.jmicron.com.tw/SATA_Controller/Windows/JMB36X_WinDrv_R1.17.65_WHQL.zip
> 
> ASmedia USB 3 Driver:
> https://www.box.com/s/vnb9zxaip364nnb6qlcq
> 
> Cooks Info On ECC vs non ECC ram:
> http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/1035333-official-asus-sabertooth-990fx-owners-club-100.html#post15370182
> 
> ASUS Drivers, utilities and docks can be downloaded here:http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#download
> 
> The first AMD motherboard... to enable SLI on an AMD chip-set...
> Thanks to the easy to understand UEFI Bios, the easy to spot problem lights, the mem ok button, the built in thermal sensors and user controllable 6 fan headers, this board is not only expensive, its great for overclocking!! All these features flow perfectly together and thanks to the ease of this bord (and a little help from OCN member bradford1040) I went from a beginner overclocker to an intermediate overclocker almost literally over nite!!
> I have never been one to get too impressed by a motherboard in the past however I'm willing to comfortably say I'm impressed, dollar for dollar this was an excellent purchase that i believe I'll be satisfied with for a good long time, if you feel the same way and own this board join the club, we would be glad to have you.
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1965113
> 
> sig codes
> *The OFFICIAL AMD Sabertooth Owners Club*
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [CENTER][URL="http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/1035333-asus-sabertooth-990fx-fan-club.html"]:rambo:[FONT=System][B][COLOR=DarkGreen]The OFFICIAL[/COLOR][COLOR=DarkRed]AMD [/COLOR][COLOR=olive] Sabertooth Owners Club  [/COLOR][/B][/FONT]:rambo:[/URL][/CENTER]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *AMD Saber Tooth owners club*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [URL="http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/1035333-asus-sabertooth-990fx-fan-club.html"][CENTER]:sozo:[FONT=System][B] AMD  Saber  Tooth  owners club    [/B][/FONT]:sozo:[/CENTER][/URL]
> 
> *AMD 990FX SaberTooth* Owners Club
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [CENTER][URL="http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/1035333-asus-sabertooth-990fx-fan-club.html"]:rambo:[FONT=System][B]AMD 990FX SaberTooth Owners Club[/B][/FONT]:rambo:[/URL][/CENTER]
> 
> [/
> 
> How good is this board, just would like to know if it was worth every cent I paid for it, thanks


----------



## Nobsod35

So how good is this board, I just ordered one has not come in yet, currently have the Asus M5A97 LE 2.0 Mobo, bought the FX 8320 CPU for the Sabertooth have a Phenom II X4 965 BE on my current board. Have 2x4gb Corsair Vengeance memory, EVGA 660 FTW GPU with a Ultra 750 PSU. I am just wondering if this Sabertooth is what the say Tough that is. If any one has any pointers on install and setup would love to here it. thanks to all the reply


----------



## robcowboy73

I don't work it that hard a bit of gaming surfing and Skype . I think a mid range graphic card will do. I will check out the to you have suggested thank


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> I don't work it that hard a bit of gaming surfing and Skype . I think a mid range graphic card will do. I will check out the to you have suggested thank


660ti or 7950


----------



## Nobsod35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> 660ti or 7950


I have the evga 660 FTW 3gb signature 2 dual fan GPU


----------



## Mr357

Meant to ask this a while back, but has anyone else done DICE or LN2 on this board?


----------



## Nobsod35

I am really trying to get some feedback on the performance of the Sabertooth MOBO, also any info on setup and even the Cons on this board.. Thanks for the info to all that reply


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nobsod35*
> 
> I am really trying to get some feedback on the performance of the Sabertooth MOBO, also any info on setup and even the Cons on this board.. Thanks for the info to all that reply


only cons.. cpu voltage limited to 1.7v
Umm audio can go out... but that is an rma ummm none others maybe the color


----------



## Nobsod35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> only cons.. cpu voltage limited to 1.7v
> Umm audio can go out... but that is an rma ummm none others maybe the color


so in all a great buy, just would like to know I am getting what I paid for, the toughness that is..


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nobsod35*
> 
> I have the evga 660 FTW 3gb signature 2 dual fan GPU


then you are good with room to grow... pick up another for sli and you will be on the 680 level of performance..


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nobsod35*
> 
> so in all a great buy, just would like to know I am getting what I paid for, the toughness that is..


yes I put my board through the ringer and it still goes.. oh I should mention vrms can get hot but nothing a fan wont fix mega and I have pushed this board to the max really and no signs of issues


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> only cons.. cpu voltage limited to 1.7v
> Umm audio can go out... but that is an rma ummm none others maybe the color


You can disable the vcore monitoring and take it all the way up to 2V. I had to do that when I was benching subzero and ran it at 1.75V.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> You can disable the vcore monitoring and take it all the way up to 2V. I had to do that when I was benching subzero and ran it at 1.75V.


hmm ive tried that... maybe im hitting over current protection on the psu? Where you using llc?


----------



## El-Fuego

So My VRM was getting hot











after I mounted the fan there, my Vcore1 reading now in the upper 50s and my CPU temps dropped about 5-7 degrees too.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nobsod35*
> 
> So how good is this board, I just ordered one has not come in yet, currently have the Asus M5A97 LE 2.0 Mobo, bought the FX 8320 CPU for the Sabertooth have a Phenom II X4 965 BE on my current board. Have 2x4gb Corsair Vengeance memory, EVGA 660 FTW GPU with a Ultra 750 PSU. I am just wondering if this Sabertooth is what the say Tough that is. If any one has any pointers on install and setup would love to here it. thanks to all the reply


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nobsod35*
> 
> I am really trying to get some feedback on the performance of the Sabertooth MOBO, also any info on setup and even the Cons on this board.. Thanks for the info to all that reply


1 plug stuff in
2 ????
3 profit
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nobsod35*
> 
> so in all a great buy, just would like to know I am getting what I paid for, the toughness that is..


i can bench @ 5.5ghz on my saberkitty

lets just say my board has been to war and loves it !~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> You can disable the vcore monitoring and take it all the way up to 2V. I had to do that when I was benching subzero and ran it at 1.75V.


it does not work for me.. i can say that.

fyi all 990fx boards need either a fan on vrm or a board block IF YOU ARE OVERCLOCKING


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> fyi all 990fx boards need either a fan on vrm or a board block IF YOU ARE OVERCLOCKING


Board block?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Board block?


the heatsink over the vrms thats connected to the northbridge


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> So My VRM was getting hot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> after I mounted the fan there, my Vcore1 reading now in the upper 50s and my CPU temps dropped about 5-7 degrees too.


So what speed and voltage are your CPU at which would warrant a fan over the VRMs? Also, if I have to do that for pushing my FX-6300 to 4.5 ghz, how do I mount the fan? I might use my stock AMD fan.


----------



## Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So what speed and voltage are your CPU at which would warrant a fan over the VRMs? Also, if I have to do that for pushing my FX-6300 to 4.5 ghz, how do I mount the fan? I might use my stock AMD fan.


You shouldn't have to do that for a 6300 at 4.5GHz. I have a 8320 @ 4.7GHz 1.51V and no thermal problems.


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So what speed and voltage are your CPU at which would warrant a fan over the VRMs? Also, if I have to do that for pushing my FX-6300 to 4.5 ghz, how do I mount the fan? I might use my stock AMD fan.


I'm running 4.5 (24/7) @ 1.4v, It's fine to leave it without a fan, but me just being me want everything running cooler, I put a 40mm no-name fan running 12v and hooked to the VRM heatsink using 1 bolt i found in my toolbox that will just go there snug enough to catch without actually damaging the heatsink or leaving mark,
there are many ways to mount it there i choose the easy way around.

Overclock your cpu and check your vcore 1 reading, if it's high then get a fan,
remember that how hot or cold your system is all depends on YOU, I mean I personally dont like to push my system to the limits, some people do that, VCore1 temps can go up to 90 without a problem, for me 60 is the max.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Board block?


http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-asus-crosshair-v-acetal-en-nickel.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> the heatsink over the vrms thats connected to the northbridge


no water block
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fegelein*
> 
> You shouldn't have to do that for a 6300 at 4.5GHz. I have a 8320 @ 4.7GHz 1.51V and no thermal problems.


define fine? lower temps = longer life and happier vrms.

if you are overclocking ( not talking about 200ish mhz ) any substantial amount you need to cool them .


----------



## robcowboy73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-asus-crosshair-v-acetal-en-nickel.html
> no water block
> define fine? lower temps = longer life and happier vrms.
> 
> if you are overclocking ( not talking about 200ish mhz ) any substantial amount you need to cool them .


Will that mobo block fit the R2 I have seen this before but not fitted to the sabertooth only on the Crosshair V .It will kill the heat and no need for mounting odd placed fans to try and cool it .


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-asus-crosshair-v-acetal-en-nickel.html
> no water block
> define fine? lower temps = longer life and happier vrms.
> 
> if you are overclocking ( not talking about 200ish mhz ) any substantial amount you need to cool them .


oops


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> Will that mobo block fit the R2 I have seen this before but not fitted to the sabertooth only on the Crosshair V .It will kill the heat and no need for mounting odd placed fans to try and cool it .


no you have to use universal blocks and some modifications


----------



## Sasquatch9

Hey maybe you guys can help me out, I bought and built a new system with this board (Sabertooth 990FX 2.0) and when i fire it up all the fans come on and everything seems good, yet I get no video and the BOOT DEVICE LED is solid. Any suggestions?

full specs

ASUS Sabertooth 990FX 2.0
AMD 8350FX
Corsair Vengeance 1833 DDR3 RAM 16GB (2 8GB modules)
Samsung 128GB SSD
Coolermaster 850W PS
Coolermaster Seidon 240 liquid cooler
Gigabyte Radeon HD 7950 3GB video card
Asus Blu Ray Drive
Coolermaster HAF X chassis

Please help!


----------



## robcowboy73

as you are using an SSD ?did you set up the raid so the bios can find it. I never had that problem just a shot in the dark hope it helps


----------



## Sasquatch9

I cant even get into the bios to change or set anything up.


----------



## robcowboy73

which mobo have you got and have you tried to flash it to reset I am not grate with the software but there maybe some one on hear that had the same problem sorry didn't dead your last fully


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> hmm ive tried that... maybe im hitting over current protection on the psu? Where you using llc?


I was using the Sabertooth version 1 with a 960T and a Cooler Master SilentPro 600W. Can't remember all of the settings, but I had LLC at the second highest setting, all spread spectrum's disabled as well as turbo, c1e and cool n' quiet (the usual stuff), Vcore at 1.725V or so, VDDA at 2.5V, and all of the monitoring options disabled except for voltages.


----------



## Sasquatch9

ASUS Sabertooth 990FX 2.0


----------



## robcowboy73

I like you love overkill







Can you please tell us what size block or give a link I am hoping to get reed of the heat sinks and have been looking for the right blocks for ever .


----------



## wiak

@Mr357 have you heard about TPUCapture?
http://www.techpowerup.com/tpucapture/

here is my new Noctua NH-U9B SE2 cooler on ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 with AMD FX-8350









yes it fits very tightly, the ram and the fan mount is µber close, i ordered a free 90 degree kit from noctua to see if its better the other way


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiak*
> 
> @Mr357 have you heard about TPUCapture?
> http://www.techpowerup.com/tpucapture/


I hadn't heard of it until now, but I don't see what's useful about it since I simply take my score screenshots with the PrintScreen key, then open them with paint and save. I disable LAN when I bench, so the instant upload feature wouldn't help me. Why'd you bring it up?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sasquatch9*
> 
> Hey maybe you guys can help me out, I bought and built a new system with this board (Sabertooth 990FX 2.0) and when i fire it up all the fans come on and everything seems good, yet I get no video and the BOOT DEVICE LED is solid. Any suggestions?
> 
> full specs
> 
> ASUS Sabertooth 990FX 2.0
> AMD 8350FX
> Corsair Vengeance 1833 DDR3 RAM 16GB (2 8GB modules)
> Samsung 128GB SSD
> Coolermaster 850W PS
> Coolermaster Seidon 240 liquid cooler
> Gigabyte Radeon HD 7950 3GB video card
> Asus Blu Ray Drive
> Coolermaster HAF X chassis
> 
> Please help!


first reseat your video card. make sure there is no dust or debris in the pcie slot. if that does not work try a different slot. if that does not work reset your bios. side note. which bios are you running? may try updating to most current bios first. ( download to usb formatted in fat32 and name it.... idr look it up it is in your manual. ) i can walk it through if you cant find it


----------



## Cores

Just wondering... where did the name Saberkitty originate from?


----------



## Mega Man

the sabertooth tiger is a cat

to the saberkitty


----------



## Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the sabertooth tiger is a cat
> 
> to the saberkitty


Thanks


----------



## wiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> I hadn't heard of it until now, but I don't see what's useful about it since I simply take my score screenshots with the PrintScreen key, then open them with paint and save. I disable LAN when I bench, so the instant upload feature wouldn't help me. Why'd you bring it up?


press prt scr and then tpucapture will auto save it to a folder of choice or to clipboard, you can disable auto upload


----------



## CannedBullets

Is anyone having this issue? I keep getting an issue where sometimes I have to reboot my PC repeatedly until the mouse and keyboard can be recognized so I can use the PC. I tried updating the chipset drivers but that didn't seem to work.

Yeah here's a detailed set of issues also. http://www.overclock.net/t/1410798/defective-motherboard

Should I RMA the board? I'm still under Newegg's return policy and I want to RMA it with Newegg because Asus's customer service is extremely poor.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Is anyone having this issue? I keep getting an issue where sometimes I have to reboot my PC repeatedly until the mouse and keyboard can be recognized so I can use the PC. I tried updating the chipset drivers but that didn't seem to work.
> 
> Yeah here's a detailed set of issues also. http://www.overclock.net/t/1410798/defective-motherboard
> 
> Should I RMA the board? I'm still under Newegg's return policy and I want to RMA it with Newegg because Asus's customer service is extremely poor.


If being without your PC for a week or two isn't too much of a burden, RMA it through Newegg while you still can.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> If being without your PC for a week or two isn't too much of a burden, RMA it through Newegg while you still can.


So you think its an issue with the board?


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So you think its an issue with the board?


Might not be, but I would conclude that it is. At least if you get a replacement and the problem still exists you no it's *not* the board


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> Might not be, but I would conclude that it is. At least if you get a replacement and the problem still exists you no it's *not* the board


Gotcha, at least its one way of eliminating a problem. Someone on a different thread told me it could be Windows 8 fast boot affecting it. But I'm not so sure about that.


----------



## wiak

jup, fast boot and there is some other things
good idea is to update bios and then reset to default


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiak*
> 
> jup, fast boot and there is some other things
> good idea is to update bios and then reset to default


Yeah I did that. But should I try turning fast boot off? I'm not sure if its fast boot doing that though.


----------



## wiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Yeah I did that. But should I try turning fast boot off? I'm not sure if its fast boot doing that though.


fast boot disables all usb except mouse/keyboard so it can be a compatibility problem between mouse/keyboard and fast boot, did you try different usb ports? and/or different mouse/keyboard?

enabling/disabling other usb specific options can also help like legacy usb


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiak*
> 
> fast boot disables all usb except mouse/keyboard so it can be a compatibility problem between mouse/keyboard and fast boot, did you try different usb ports? and/or different mouse/keyboard?
> 
> enabling/disabling other usb specific options can also help like legacy usb


I just disabled fast boot. Yeah I tried different USB ports. Fast boot being disabled seem to have done the trick. I restarted after I disabled fast boot and my mouse and keyboard worked. Then I shut off my PC, waited a few minutes and turned it back on. Mouse and keyboard worked except my boot time was slightly longer but tolerable.


----------



## CannedBullets

Disabling fast boot didn't work. Looks like I'll have to RMA the board.


----------



## kishagi

i had that problem with the LED. there isnt a fix, so just RMA it


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Disabling fast boot didn't work. Looks like I'll have to RMA the board.


Go through newegg while you still can, Asus are slow and really sucks. I'm going through that now and they like to take their time with the RMA


----------



## Nobsod35

Yeah have not done any OCing yet, just getting used to the boards features in the UEFI also the new AI suite ii that came with this board is much different than that of my later Asus boards, Thanks to all for the feedback it helped in my buying decision and I love this board


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> Go through newegg while you still can, Asus are slow and really sucks. I'm going through that now and they like to take their time with the RMA


I RMA'd my board yesterday. Hopefully the replacement isn't a dud.


----------



## Mega Man

please let us know if you need any helps...

i may not use it 24/7 but i know that board well.. i can boot and bench @ 5.5 ghz i love it have not had real time to play with my CHVz may end up going back to saberkitty though i have not decided...


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> please let us know if you need any helps...
> 
> i may not use it 24/7 but i know that board well.. i can boot and bench @ 5.5 ghz i love it have not had real time to play with my CHVz may end up going back to saberkitty though i have not decided...


5.5 ghz? That's crazy, I thought the Sabertooth was voltage locked at 1.7v? Yeah I had a weird issue on the board I RMA'd with the audio alongside the mouse and keyboard issue where every time I switched tabs with a youtube video playing the audio would stutter. You guys think it could be an issue with having the SATA ports set to AHCI mode? It shouldn't be an issue especially because I clean isntalled Windows after getting my Sabertooth.


----------



## Mega Man

http://hwbot.org/benchmark/hwbot_prime/

i was #2 for a while you can not tell me those intels are not using L2n ( those are also server boards..... ) ....... ( l2n ) i know altar is .... only one beating us was a 3k cpu ...
you are not supposed to use l2n iirc
here is 5.3
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/6664211


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> http://hwbot.org/benchmark/hwbot_prime/
> 
> i was #2 for a while you can not tell me those intels are not using L2n ( those are also server boards..... ) ....... ( l2n ) i know altar is .... only one beating us was a 3k cpu ...
> you are not supposed to use l2n iirc
> here is 5.3
> http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/6664211


This is going to be a noobish question but what's L2N? I've heard of L2N before but I'm not sure what it is.


----------



## Tater00nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> This is going to be a noobish question but what's L2N? I've heard of L2N before but I'm not sure what it is.


liquid nitrogen


----------



## Mega Man

^


----------



## CannedBullets

Hey, so if I'm using ez flash in the bios will I need to extract the bios file before I update it or should it be fine without having to extract it? Also I don't need to download anything from Asus's website to use ez flash right?


----------



## draterrojam

Ok, so please don't make fun of me (too much). I've had my Sabertooth 990fx r2 for a little while now and love it thus far. HOWEVER, I didn't notice this until now...I have my RAM in slots 1 & 3








Correct me if I'm wrong, but should they be in 2 & 4? Please let me know, hopefully I didn't screw anything up.


----------



## Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *draterrojam*
> 
> Ok, so please don't make fun of me (too much). I've had my Sabertooth 990fx r2 for a little while now and love it thus far. HOWEVER, I didn't notice this until now...I have my RAM in slots 1 & 3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong, but should they be in 2 & 4? Please let me know, hopefully I didn't screw anything up.


No, that's fine.


----------



## Tater00nuts

The power went out on me the other day and when I turned my system back on it went to the screen where you can choose safe mode or normal startup. Only problem is my keyboard wouldn't work (Caps lock light wouldn't turn on/off, couldn't change selection, number lock light wouldn't turn on/off). It works on the POST screen and in Windows but not on the safemode/normal startup screen. Any ideas?

990FX gen 1
Saitek Gamers keyboard (yes, I know this is almost an antique but it still works)

I unfortunately don't have another keyboard to test with, was hoping this is an issue someone else has had/fixed. Though I guess this is a good excuse to finally upgrade


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

guys i have a problem my front case fan blinks once after boot when im on the desktop.What could be the prob ? BTW im uploading a video of whats take place .Thanks


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> guys i have a problem my front case fan blinks once after boot when im on the desktop.What could be the prob ? BTW im uploading a video of whats take place .Thanks


here is the vid sorry for the slow motion part :/


----------



## javathedot

I just bought the R2 (non-Gen3) 2 weeks ago. Running on defaults. So far so good. (Posting this for the permalink







)


----------



## javathedot

CPU core activation has been restricted to "per module" basis instead of "per core". I'm just wondering why.

I used AMIBCP v4.53 to check the bios and the "per core" entries menu entries are still there (but not displayed when BIOS runs). I also tried enabling those "per core" menu items by changing Access/user value to USER then flashed the BIOS with the edited one. the per core menu entries were displayed but disabling/enabling them doesn't work (doesn't take effect). It must have been disabled somewhere else in the BIOS config.


----------



## Mega Man

you can only disable a module not a core. core can be disabled on phenomes iirc ( or older chips )


----------



## javathedot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you can only disable a module not a core. core can be disabled on phenomes iirc ( or older chips )


Yeah. that's exactly what I said. And I'm just wondering why. because if i'm not mistaken Asrock Extreme 9 and Gigabyte UD7 still have per core activation feature.


----------



## Mega Man

because the visharas are module based not core based. no board can disable 1 core they all disable 2


----------



## javathedot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> because the visharas are module based not core based. no board can disable 1 core they all disable 2


Alirght, man. That pretty much explains it. Thanks a lot.


----------



## CannedBullets

Well thanks to my dumb luck the replacement Sabertooth GEN3 and H80i I was supposed to get today got lost during shipping. Thankfully I got it sorted out with Newegg and I'm going to get the parts tomorrow.

So the Sabertooth defaults RAM to 1333 mhz, when you guys set your RAM to their marketed speeds of 1600 mhz, 1866 mhz, etc did you guys leave the timings and voltages on auto or did you manually change them? Because on the Sabertooth I RMA'd I just changed the memory speed and that was it, I left the other memory settings on their defaults. Yeah I know how to navigate the bios for overclocking but the DRAM menu might as well be in Chinese.


----------



## Nobsod35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Well thanks to my dumb luck the replacement Sabertooth GEN3 and H80i I was supposed to get today got lost during shipping. Thankfully I got it sorted out with Newegg and I'm going to get the parts tomorrow.
> 
> So the Sabertooth defaults RAM to 1333 mhz, when you guys set your RAM to their marketed speeds of 1600 mhz, 1866 mhz, etc did you guys leave the timings and voltages on auto or did you manually change them? Yeah I know how to navigate the bios for overclocking but the DRAM menu might as well be in Chinese.


On my saberkitty I had to go in and manually setup the memory specs, in the timing section in BIos, yes I know it's not called that any more lol


----------



## Nobsod35

after I set it up, it read my Corsair Vengeance 2x4gb memory to 1866 and has been working fine since


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nobsod35*
> 
> On my saberkitty I had to go in and manually setup the memory specs, in the timing section in BIos, yes I know it's not called that any more lol


Yeah I have Corsair Vengeance RAM also except its 1600 mhz. So is there a good guide out there for the DRAM settings? Because I just want to set my RAM to its voltage of 1.5v, CAS latency to 9, and timing to 9-9-9-24 and I couldn't really make sense of the manual when it came to DRAM.


----------



## Nobsod35

Just go into bios and go to your AI tweaker scroll down till you see the cpu timing and select it then use you +and - buttons on the keyboard to setup the values on your memory, if i remember right it is just the first 4-5 that you setup and change. Then scroll back up and set your memory to 1600 and f10 to save and restart that should do It


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nobsod35*
> 
> Just go into bios and go to your AI tweaker scroll down till you see the cpu timing and select it then use you +and - buttons on the keyboard to setup the values on your memory, if i remember right it is just the first 4-5 that you setup and change. Then scroll back up and set your memory to 1600 and f10 to save and restart that should do It


Right, so I just set these in the Primary Timings menu

DRAM CAS# Latency to 9

DRAM RAS# to CAS# Delay to 9

DRAM RAS# PRE Time to 9

DRAM RAS# ACT Time to 24

If my RAM timings are 9-9-9-24 right? because on the manual those are the first four settings.


----------



## Nobsod35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Right, so I just set these in the Primary Timings menu
> 
> DRAM CAS# Latency to 9
> 
> DRAM RAS# to CAS# Delay to 9
> 
> DRAM RAS# PRE Time to 9
> 
> DRAM RAS# ACT Time to 24
> 
> If my RAM timings are 9-9-9-24 right? because on the manual those are the first four settings.


Yes that looks good, should read it now at 1600 as long as you set it to 1600 at the beginning of the AI tweeker


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nobsod35*
> 
> Yes that looks good, should read it now at 1600 as long as you set it to 1600 at the beginning of the AI tweeker


Right, thanks. So I should be able to just leave the other DRAM settings at their stock options?


----------



## Nobsod35

its the memory frequency that is set to 1600 then yes set the Dram timing control to what your memory is and that should do it. then F10 reset and then check it, by hitting delete and going back into bios it then should be reading your memory at 1600. Also what CPU do you have installed onto your sabertooth


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nobsod35*
> 
> its the memory frequency that is set to 1600 then yes set the Dram timing control to what your memory is and that should do it. then F10 reset and then check it, by hitting delete and going back into bios it then should be reading your memory at 1600. Also what CPU do you have installed onto your sabertooth


I'll have an FX-6300 in the Sabertooth, I want my RAM timings and speed to be at their marketed speed of 1600 mhz at 9-9-9-24 for a stable overclock. I heard motherboards could give you the wrong timings if you have it set to auto causing instability. So just change those four settings and make sure the speed is set to 1600 mhz and set the other settings in the DRAM menu to their stock values? Sounds easy enough.


----------



## Nobsod35

That's all I did with my 2x4gb Corsair Vengeance memory to work, I have the AMD FX-8320 CPU with my memory at 1866


----------



## Mega Man

i run 2400 between 32gb and 16
you will be fine doing that


----------



## Raephen

I've sold my Saberkitten earlier this year, but I do remember using the XMP profiles on my Corsair Vengeance 1866 MHz ram. That took care of all timimgs and set them correctly, as far as I could see.

To enable the XMP profiles switch Ai Overclock Tuner (Ai Tweaker tab, Advanced mode) from manual mode to D.O.C.P. and you should be able to select the XMP profile you want to run.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> I've sold my Saberkitten earlier this year, but I do remember using the XMP profiles on my Corsair Vengeance 1866 MHz ram. That took care of all timimgs and set them correctly, as far as I could see.
> 
> To enable the XMP profiles switch Ai Overclock Tuner (Ai Tweaker tab, Advanced mode) from manual mode to D.O.C.P. and you should be able to select the XMP profile you want to run.


THis ^^

I also the auto in most cases once you change the frequency of ram will set the timings about the same as the xmp's


----------



## CannedBullets

Yeah I set the RAM frequency to 1600 mhz and voltage to 1.5v and the timings were automatically set to 9-9-9-24.


----------



## Nobsod35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Yeah I set the RAM frequency to 1600 mhz and voltage to 1.5v and the timings were automatically set to 9-9-9-24.


yeah sometimes it will do it auto for ya


----------



## CannedBullets

So how would every one else use the stock AMD fan as a VRM fan? I'm stuck on how to get it on there.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So how would every one else use the stock AMD fan as a VRM fan? I'm stuck on how to get it on there.


With my Saberkitten I used some double-sided tape to attach two 40mm fans on a long, slim piece of firm plastic and then used the double sided tape to attach the plastic to the VRM heatsink.

Well worth it: with the two Noiseblocker fans at sub 1000 rpm (so: silent) a noticeable drop in temps, much on the VRM and even some on the CPU.

EDIT: the quick and dirty mod still holds strong in my friends pc with my old Saberkitten allongside a H100.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> With my Saberkitten I used some double-sided tape to attach two 40mm fans on a long, slim piece of firm plastic and then used the double sided tape to attach the plastic to the VRM heatsink.
> 
> Well worth it: with the two Noiseblocker fans at sub 1000 rpm (so: silent) a noticeable drop in temps, much on the VRM and even some on the CPU.
> 
> EDIT: the quick and dirty mod still holds strong in my friends pc with my old Saberkitten allongside a H100.


Do you have pictures of how its mounted? I'm going to use the 70 mm stock AMD fan.

How hot in celsius does it have to get to melt the adhesive on foam tape?


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> With my Saberkitten I used some double-sided tape to attach two 40mm fans on a long, slim piece of firm plastic and then used the double sided tape to attach the plastic to the VRM heatsink.
> 
> Well worth it: with the two Noiseblocker fans at sub 1000 rpm (so: silent) a noticeable drop in temps, much on the VRM and even some on the CPU.
> 
> EDIT: the quick and dirty mod still holds strong in my friends pc with my old Saberkitten allongside a H100.


you got any pictures bud im interested in trying this


----------



## Raephen

You both could just check out images in this thread bit on the right. I and many others with me posted our solutions.
( http://www.overclock.net/t/1035333/lightbox/ )

And CB: the vrm's may get hot, but even uncooled the heatsink was never really too hot for me to touch, so no worries about melting anything on it. The idea of the fans there is to help the heatsink do it's job better with a bit more airflow.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> And CB: the vrm's may get hot, but even uncooled the heatsink was never really too hot for me to touch, so no worries about melting anything on it. The idea of the fans there is to help the heatsink do it's job better with a bit more airflow.


Really? Because there's no airflow at all because I'm using an H80i. I guess I'll have to go to Home Depot or something to get some foam tape with industrial grade adhesive.


----------



## hucklebuck

I just mounted an old Mass Cool 80mm fan on mine today with double sided tape also. It seems look it will hold. If it falls off I'll figure something else out. It fits like a puzzle piece next to my Hyper 212 EVO.


----------



## THC Butterz

the vrms arnt really a thing to worry about unless your pumping monstorous voltages through them on a blistering hot day, but when i dont care about looks, i stack 2 80mm on top of one another one blowing on the nb one on the vrm, just sitting on top of my gpu, keeps everything nice and cool


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> the vrms arnt really a thing to worry about unless your pumping monstorous voltages through them on a blistering hot day, but when i dont care about looks, i stack 2 80mm on top of one another one blowing on the nb one on the vrm, just sitting on top of my gpu, keeps everything nice and cool


I'm going to overclock my FX-6300 to 4.5 ghz, so I'll probably need anything from 1.4 to 1.48v.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> the vrms arnt really a thing to worry about unless your pumping monstorous voltages through them on a blistering hot day, but when i dont care about looks, i stack 2 80mm on top of one another one blowing on the nb one on the vrm, just sitting on top of my gpu, keeps everything nice and cool
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to overclock my FX-6300 to 4.5 ghz, so I'll probably need anything from 1.4 to 1.48v.
Click to expand...

I've been known to run my 1090t with 1.5v arround the clock and havent seen any vrm temp issues yet, Im on a original saber, but i cant imagine R2 and R2G3 are too much different with cooling, remember also im on a full blown waterloop so my vrms get virtually zero air flow, mind you every case has different cooling properties, but you shouldn't bee too concerned, esp. because the special coating they put on them really helps


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> I've been known to run my 1090t with 1.5v arround the clock and havent seen any vrm temp issues yet, Im on a original saber, but i cant imagine R2 and R2G3 are too much different with cooling, remember also im on a full blown waterloop so my vrms get virtually zero air flow, mind you every case has different cooling properties, but you shouldn't bee too concerned, esp. because the special coating they put on them really helps


Yeah I know this fine piece of engineering has heatsinks on heatsinks. But weren't the VRM heatsinks designed for air cooling?


----------



## THC Butterz

Well even in a air cooling situation air flow to the vrm is nothing special in most cases, as far as looks and sound, its better not to have fans, and you shuld be fine without them, but if you do run them, it probably will extend the long term reliability of the board


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> Well even in a air cooling situation air flow to the vrm is nothing special in most cases, as far as looks and sound, its better not to have fans, and you shuld be fine without them, but if you do run them, it probably will extend the long term reliability of the board


Yeah I might do that just for betetr temps, my ambients have been around 84 F and it might be like that when I overclock.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> I've been known to run my 1090t with 1.5v arround the clock and havent seen any vrm temp issues yet, Im on a original saber, but i cant imagine R2 and R2G3 are too much different with cooling, remember also im on a full blown waterloop so my vrms get virtually zero air flow, mind you every case has different cooling properties, but you shouldn't bee too concerned, esp. because the special coating they put on them really helps


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Yeah I know this fine piece of engineering has heatsinks on heatsinks. But weren't the VRM heatsinks designed for air cooling?


this
if you are water cooling you dont have air anywhere near your vrms, it does not take much cfm/static pressure to do it, i know people who use 40mm fans without issue


----------



## Nobsod35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> With my Saberkitten I used some double-sided tape to attach two 40mm fans on a long, slim piece of firm plastic and then used the double sided tape to attach the plastic to the VRM heatsink.
> 
> Well worth it: with the two Noiseblocker fans at sub 1000 rpm (so: silent) a noticeable drop in temps, much on the VRM and even some on the CPU.
> 
> EDIT: the quick and dirty mod still holds strong in my friends pc with my old Saberkitten allongside a H100.


I took my stock Heatsink fan and was like how can I even get it in there with my dual 120mm Cooler Master 212 EVO is in the way, I really cannot see where to mount it, could maybe anyone that has done this mod please post a pic of his install of this fan onto the Vram


----------



## Nobsod35

I know I would have to take off the heatsink but even my rear 120mm case fan is in the way of a centered mount, I also cannot see any where to mount it to with the tape, also what kind of double sided sticky tape are you using, went to my hardware store had like a crud load of different kinds for different uses?


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this
> if you are water cooling you dont have air anywhere near your vrms, it does not take much cfm/static pressure to do it, i know people who use 40mm fans without issue


Yeah but my main issue is how to get the stock AMD fan on there. A video would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> I'm going to overclock my FX-6300 to 4.5 ghz, so I'll probably need anything from 1.4 to 1.48v.


Should have bought an NH-D14









I have the FX-6300 overclocked to 4.5 at 1.41v and my vrm temp never goes above 52c, and that's only during stress testing... The middle 140mm fan on the NH-D14 does a really good job cooling the vrms.

I just thought I'd give you an idea on what temps you'd expect to get with air cooling so you have something to work off of since we both have the same cpu and motherboard. Also I've heard of a lot of people cooling their vrms from the backside of the motherboard with good results. So if you don't mind doing some case modding that could be an option for you too.


----------



## Nobsod35

I have a 120mm fan installed on the right side of my case behind the Mobo. Should I have that fan as a intake or a outtake fan. which air flow config would work better. Currently on a Intake setup


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceaze one*
> 
> Should have bought an NH-D14
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the FX-6300 overclocked to 4.5 at 1.41v and my vrm temp never goes above 52c, and that's only during stress testing... The middle 140mm fan on the NH-D14 does a really good job cooling the vrms.
> 
> I just thought I'd give you an idea on what temps you'd expect to get with air cooling so you have something to work off of since we both have the same cpu and motherboard. Also I've heard of a lot of people cooling their vrms from the backside of the motherboard with good results. So if you don't mind doing some case modding that could be an option for you too.


Well I'm already in an H80i, yeah its annoying how there's no videos on how to attack the stock fan onto the VRM heatsinks and I wish more motherboard companies would install stuff like fan mounts for the VRM heatsink like this.



Except the ASRock 990FX Extreme4 seems to be the only motherboard on the market which has that.


----------



## Nobsod35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Well I'm already in an H80i, yeah its annoying how there's no videos on how to attack the stock fan onto the VRM heatsinks and I wish more motherboard companies would install stuff like fan mounts for the VRM heatsink like this.
> 
> 
> 
> Except the ASRock 990FX Extreme4 seems to be the only motherboard on the market which has that.


so that is a replacement heatsink casue my saberkitty vrm heatsink does not look like that, just want one i could install on top of the stock vrm heatsink


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Well I'm already in an H80i, yeah its annoying how there's no videos on how to attack the stock fan onto the VRM heatsinks and I wish more motherboard companies would install stuff like fan mounts for the VRM heatsink like this.
> 
> 
> 
> Except the ASRock 990FX Extreme4 seems to be the only motherboard on the market which has that.


I remember having an 80mm fan cooling my vrms once. I attached it to my rear 120mm exhaust fan with a zip tie and it worked pretty good... it was pretty ghetto but it worked lol.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nobsod35*
> 
> so that is a replacement heatsink casue my saberkitty vrm heatsink does not look like that, just want one i could install on top of the stock vrm heatsink


No that's the VRM heatsink for an ASRock 990FX Extreme4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceaze one*
> 
> I remember having an 80mm fan cooling my vrms once. I attached it to my rear 120mm exhaust fan with a zip tie and it worked pretty good... it was pretty ghetto but it worked lol.


I think I'd be able to do that if I didn't have an H80i take up the space on where my exhaust fan would be.


----------



## Nobsod35

same here my cooler master 212 evo is taking up too much room, have 2x120mm fans on it and to get a fan on my vrm I would have to take off the heatsink then get in there to see if I could go zip tie crazy lol... not even sure then the rear exhaust fan is in the way, unless I could zip tie it to that with the air flow focused onto the vrm. I will figure this out when I put in my new PSU here soon


----------



## reaperUK

Hey all, can anyone help me regarding why my sabertooth recognises 8gig of ram but only 3.95 usable? Ive run memtest, swapped my sticks around but still no change.

The only thing I have changed is my cpu to a 8320 piledriver however when I try to download the 1704 bios AI suite tells me it doesn't match???

Im currently on the 1604 bios, reason im running on that bios is I have just found out that my board is a R2.0 version so have i fluffed my board or am doing something wrong?

When I do try to dl the 1708 bios it turns out to be a cap file instead of a rom file?? help!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaperUK*
> 
> Hey all, can anyone help me regarding why my sabertooth recognises 8gig of ram but only 3.95 usable? Ive run memtest, swapped my sticks around but still no change.
> 
> The only thing I have changed is my cpu to a 8320 piledriver however when I try to download the 1704 bios AI suite tells me it doesn't match???
> 
> Im currently on the 1604 bios, reason im running on that bios is I have just found out that my board is a R2.0 version so have i fluffed my board or am doing something wrong?
> 
> When I do try to dl the 1708 bios it turns out to be a cap file instead of a rom file?? help!


1 fill out rig builder ( top right corner of this page )
2 what version of windows are you running ( be sure to include if it is 32 or 64 bit )
goto control panel > system and security > system ( assuming you are running win7 or 8 )
3 if you are NOT running 32 bit ( which has a 4 gig cap )
take out one of the sticks of ram and boot then take out the other stick and boot ( when booting make sure you keep them in their original position.)

i had a chip that would only read from one of the channels of ram, this is how i found that out, to fix i replaced the cpu as i knew the board was fine. however it can be either your board or cpu at this point if it does not recognize one stick of the ram )

lastly if you do find that one of the sticks does not boot you need to switch it to the other slot that was used to verify the ram is good. ( and boot )


----------



## reaperUK

Hey Mega Man, thx for the reply, rigbuilder doesn't seem to be working atm, im running w7 64 bit, ive tried the swapping sticks around however if I put 2 sticks in far right last 2 banks then my pc fails to boot, is that normal?


----------



## Mega Man

yea sound s like your chip is damaged but again

ram slots

CPU 4 3 2 1
supposed to put them in 1/3

leave sticks in 1 and pull 3

boot

put stick back in 3 and pull 1 boot

if 1 or 3 fails put stick in other channel ( the one that failed ) and boot

example #3 failed you will put it into 1

that would tell me it is either mobo or ram. if you have another mobo put in your 8320 and try the same thing again. if it fails again it is the cpu if not it is the mobo

going to bed will help more tomorrow.
fyi i noticed rigbuilder likes IE and not other browsers..... but your right it seems it is down atm


----------



## reaperUK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea sound s like your chip is damaged but again
> 
> ram slots
> 
> CPU 4 3 2 1
> supposed to put them in 1/3
> 
> leave sticks in 1 and pull 3
> 
> boot
> 
> put stick back in 3 and pull 1 boot
> 
> if 1 or 3 fails put stick in other channel ( the one that failed ) and boot
> 
> example #3 failed you will put it into 1
> 
> that would tell me it is either mobo or ram. if you have another mobo put in your 8320 and try the same thing again. if it fails again it is the cpu if not it is the mobo
> 
> going to bed will help more tomorrow.
> fyi i noticed rigbuilder likes IE and not other browsers..... but your right it seems it is down atm


Hey Mega, just changed back to my old 960t cpu hey presto its recognizing all 8 gig of ram, looks like im gonna rma my piledriver now, thx for your help bud.


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Yeah I know this fine piece of engineering has heatsinks on heatsinks. But weren't the VRM heatsinks designed for air cooling?


You hit the nail on the head with this comment! They were designed for just this. The stock heatsink/fan combo blows air down, at the sinks fins and out the bottom, and slightly the sides. This air crosses over anything near the socket, and guess what is next to the socket on one side! Any aftermarket cooling may affect this ability to cool the vrms.

I don't remember which one, but one of my Asus boards came with a cooling fan that you could mount on these heatsinks, if you used any aftermarked CPU cooling solution. (Might have been the MVA32-MVP Deluxe). It is this board, from the Asus webpage: Optional Fan for Water-Cooling or Passive-Cooling only.


----------



## Dhalgren65

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*
> 
> You hit the nail on the head with this comment! They were designed for just this. The stock heatsink/fan combo blows air down, at the sinks fins and out the bottom, and slightly the sides. This air crosses over anything near the socket, and guess what is next to the socket on one side! Any aftermarket cooling may affect this ability to cool the vrms.
> 
> I don't remember which one, but one of my Asus boards came with a cooling fan that you could mount on these heatsinks, if you used any aftermarked CPU cooling solution. (Might have been the MVA32-MVP Deluxe). It is this board, from the Asus webpage: Optional Fan for Water-Cooling or Passive-Cooling only.


I snagged two of these fans for my v1(Amazon/FanVan)
I thought I had found the Holy Grail.








Almost NO airflow.
I tried 12v,a little too loud(turboish)
I tried connected w/controller.
They "hang" on there well enough, but they really don't help...
(I think the difference in HS build-i.e:thin plates & cooler pipe vs chunky metal sink make it less effective)
I used a Memory Cooling Fan for a while(Gskill)as it clamps on real easy-OK air flow but not ideal.
I have settled for an 80mm "hanging"by 1 hole off my CPU WB mount upper LT bolt shank...
I also cut a blowhole to mount a 120 behind MB>blowing on the back of the board...
I DID have a 120 wedged in there for a while but didn't like the look.(WC so I have LOTS of room)
Currently after 20 minutes of BF3 or Nazi Zombie Army VRM's are 46-47c MAX.


----------



## THC Butterz

just remember cooler is always better, the 2 80mm 12v dc fans i put over mine made a 10c difference


----------



## CannedBullets

Okay I think I'll try overclocking without a VRM fan until I find a way to put the stock fan on there, which I hope works because even though my core CPU temps are good my socket temp idles at around 37-38 C after I've had it on for a few hours on stock speed. Yeah I don't get it, these motherboard companies always market high end boards for overclocking, yet the VRM heatsinks are still designed for aircooling with the stock heatsink.

EDIT: I've been having this issue also, I posted about it i nthe Windows forum on here but I'm not sure if its an issue with my motherboard.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1413671/windows-keeps-failing-fast-startup


----------



## CannedBullets

I thought of something but I haven't tried it out yet. I might try and mount the stock fan with foam tape on the area circled in red.



Think it'll work?


----------



## Mega Man

alotta ppl do it you will be fine with that


----------



## Nobsod35

I have been toying with this and in my case where you have that circled in read would be my rear outtake 120mm fan, i have been thinking about Zip tie it on that fan, having the airflow directed towards my vrm. Also I thought about just getting a cooler master geminII s524 heatsinks and installing it with the vrm under the fan, been told that this system has help a lot with cooling the vrm and the rest of the board with the airflow blowing down onto the mobo


----------



## CountEVGA

Heres my Sabertooth 990FX R2.0


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CountEVGA*
> 
> Heres my Sabertooth 990FX R2.0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










That cable management is about to give me an aneurysm


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nobsod35*
> 
> I have been toying with this and in my case where you have that circled in read would be my rear outtake 120mm fan, i have been thinking about Zip tie it on that fan, having the airflow directed towards my vrm. Also I thought about just getting a cooler master geminII s524 heatsinks and installing it with the vrm under the fan, been told that this system has help a lot with cooling the vrm and the rest of the board with the airflow blowing down onto the mobo


There should be room, I have enough room to fit the fan between the H80i radiator.


----------



## CountEVGA

I know, I need to get that all cleaned up. Ill do that tonight as a matter of fact.


----------



## Nobsod35

I agree what cable management, wow i thought my cables where everywhere.


----------



## CannedBullets

Well there is such thing as _overkill_ cable management.


----------



## Nobsod35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> 
> 
> Well there is such thing as _overkill_ cable management.


That looks about like the back of my case lol
I am glad that here in like 12 hours I will be installing my new Cooler Master V850 full modular PSU with flat cables for better management, I should make my AzzA Hurrican 2000 look really clean


----------



## Benjyyyy

Hi, I just received my sabertooth 990fx r2 today but I am having problems, everything is plugged in and power is connected but I can't get a display on my monitor and I am getting 1 long beep and 2 short beeps over and over.. I read it is to do with a Memory issue? My current memory is patriot PSD34G13332H and I am not sure if it is or isn't comparable. Also my bios version according to the sticker on the board is 1503 I just wanted to make sure that is the correct bios for the r2 and do I need too flash it to a newer bios for my FX 4170

Sorry for the wall of text also >.>


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjyyyy*
> 
> Hi, I just received my sabertooth 990fx r2 today but I am having problems, everything is plugged in and power is connected but I can't get a display on my monitor and I am getting 1 long beep and 2 short beeps over and over.. I read it is to do with a Memory issue? My current memory is patriot PSD34G13332H and I am not sure if it is or isn't comparable. Also my bios version according to the sticker on the board is 1503 I just wanted to make sure that is the correct bios for the r2 and do I need too flash it to a newer bios for my FX 4170
> 
> Sorry for the wall of text also >.>


1503 is fine

Try clearing the
try pressing the mem ok button
are there any other lights that show ehen the error happens?


----------



## Benjyyyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> 1503 is fine
> 
> Try clearing the
> try pressing the mem ok button
> are there any other lights that show ehen the error happens?


Only light that seems to be red is the dram light, when I press memok it flashes and continues beeping and doesn't seem too fix the issue


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjyyyy*
> 
> Only light that seems to be red is the dram light, when I press memok it flashes and continues beeping and doesn't seem too fix the issue


have you tried 1 ram stick just to see if its the ram?


----------



## Benjyyyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> have you tried 1 ram stick just to see if its the ram?


I tried one stick of ram, one of my sticks makes the motherboard continue with the beeps and the other stick still has the red light but no beeps.. So no idea what's going on


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Make sure there isnt any thing in the dimm slot.. I ran across dust in mine once that caused issues.. other than that try to get a known working ram try it.. or just rma it


----------



## Benjyyyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Make sure there isnt any thing in the dimm slot.. I ran across dust in mine once that caused issues.. other than that try to get a known working ram try it.. or just rma it


Not dust unfortunately. I will have too purchase some new ram then which kinda sucks as I will be without my comp till then and stuck with just an ipad. Anyway can you or anyone else recommend me some decent not too expensive ram that would 100% work with this board?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjyyyy*
> 
> Not dust unfortunately. I will have too purchase some new ram then which kinda sucks as I will be without my comp till then and stuck with just an ipad. Anyway can you or anyone else recommend me some decent not too expensive ram that would 100% work with this board?


thats a bummer.. I am running crucial ballistex


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjyyyy*
> 
> Not dust unfortunately. I will have too purchase some new ram then which kinda sucks as I will be without my comp till then and stuck with just an ipad. Anyway can you or anyone else recommend me some decent not too expensive ram that would 100% work with this board?


If you want to be sure look in the manual for a list of compatible RAM.


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjyyyy*
> 
> Not dust unfortunately. I will have too purchase some new ram then which kinda sucks as I will be without my comp till then and stuck with just an ipad. Anyway can you or anyone else recommend me some decent not too expensive ram that would 100% work with this board?


idk why but ram is currently really expensive... i remember that i bought a 8gb gskill ripjaws x 2133 c9 kit like a year ago, for 50bucks... now the same kit is almost 80bucks... try some hyper x genesis...


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> idk why but ram is currently really expensive... i remember that i bought a 8gb gskill ripjaws x 2133 c9 kit like a year ago, for 50bucks... now the same kit is almost 80bucks... try some hyper x genesis...


The price of RAM is rising because more factories are switching over to making memory for mobile devices instead of desktops because mobile is where the money is right now.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjyyyy*
> 
> Hi, I just received my sabertooth 990fx r2 today but I am having problems, everything is plugged in and power is connected but I can't get a display on my monitor and I am getting 1 long beep and 2 short beeps over and over.. I read it is to do with a Memory issue? My current memory is patriot PSD34G13332H and I am not sure if it is or isn't comparable. Also my bios version according to the sticker on the board is 1503 I just wanted to make sure that is the correct bios for the r2 and do I need too flash it to a newer bios for my FX 4170
> 
> Sorry for the wall of text also >.>


what wall of text.

you have any other ram you can test ?

i would reccomend trying to update bios anyway coulda had a bad flash. you can do it using a usb stick formatted to fat32 and a bios file ( you have to rename it to something idr though )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> The price of RAM is rising because more factories are switching over to making memory for mobile devices instead of desktops because mobile is where the money is right now.


and they are stop selling in the us for w.e. reason...


----------



## Nobsod35

just checked mine, that ram is not on the list anywhere. might have to get some G.Skill or Corsair vengeance memory, I know they both work, also would go with 1600 or 1866, I have 2x4gb Corsair Vengeance they are the Black and army green style that fit the board well they work nicely with the Cooler master 212 EVO heatsink with 2x120mm push and pull method. still enough room for my memory, even the Cooler master N520 works also.


----------



## CannedBullets

EDIT: Never mind I thought you were referring to your set of memory. Yeah I checked mine also, Benjyyyy's memory isn't on the memory list also for me, except mine's a Gen3.


----------



## Nobsod35

i was talking about that other persons memory, he was using patriot PS034g13332h memory and it was not working, it not on the vendor list or in the manual for the saderkitty. My memory is fine, I know mine works using it right now,lol. that was a suggestion to the other person on what kind works well with the saberkitty


----------



## Benjyyyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what wall of text.
> 
> you have any other ram you can test ?
> 
> i would reccomend trying to update bios anyway coulda had a bad flash. you can do it using a usb stick formatted to fat32 and a bios file ( you have to rename it to something idr though )
> and they are stop selling in the us for w.e. reason...


What do you mean rename it too idr? The file I downloaded was like .cad or something.

Anyway everyone thank you for all your help. Will just need to get some new ram when I get some money.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nobsod35*
> 
> i was talking about that other persons memory, he was using patriot PS034g13332h memory and it was not working, it not on the vendor list or in the manual for the saderkitty. My memory is fine, I know mine works using it right now,lol. that was a suggestion to the other person on what kind works well with the saberkitty


I have a set of psd38g1333kh that work which is pretty much the same stick i just have 2 sticks in a pair compared to just 1


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjyyyy*
> 
> What do you mean rename it too idr? The file I downloaded was like .cad or something.
> 
> Anyway everyone thank you for all your help. Will just need to get some new ram when I get some money.


you have to rename the file... now that i have a few min i can find it one sec....

page 2-12 of your manual ( PLEASE NOTE THIS IS FOR R2.0, gen3 may be different. you need to look in your manual under the table of contents "bios update utility" "usb bios flashback" or something like that. )

rename it to "ST990R20.CAP"

put it on the fat32 flashdrive
put the flash drive in the correct usb port
press and hold the bios flashback button till it lights up, wait for it to stop blinking and you can power it back up

to my knowledge it is different for all boards with this utility.. i know it is on the CVFz ... frankly they should just make it "1.CAP"

i hate all the ketch phrases they make us remember.. i am lazy and like to type 1 freaking letter!~


----------



## Darklyric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you have to rename the file... now that i have a few min i can find it one sec....
> 
> page 2-12 of your manual ( PLEASE NOTE THIS IS FOR R2.0, gen3 may be different. you need to look in your manual under the table of contents "bios update utility" "usb bios flashback" or something like that. )
> 
> rename it to "ST990R20.CAP"
> 
> put it on the fat32 flashdrive
> put the flash drive in the correct usb port
> press and hold the bios flashback button till it lights up, wait for it to stop blinking and you can power it back up
> 
> to my knowledge it is different for all boards with this utility.. i know it is on the CVFz ... frankly they should just make it "1.CAP"
> 
> i hate all the ketch phrases they make us remember.. i am lazy and like to type 1 freaking letter!~


just did mine in the bios without renaming it...didn't know it was necessary


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> I have a set of psd38g1333kh that work which is pretty much the same stick i just have 2 sticks in a pair compared to just 1


I got curious and through them in my rig.. they suck for overclocking lol could only bump it up to 1600 before itd no post on me.. dand dust got in my way too... I have noticed that the 1st dimm slot is natoriouse for trapping dust. And my rig is very clean and it still got dust trapped in it to make the 1st dimm read as system memory so odd


----------



## n9nu

For those users that have the latest Asus 990FX Sabertooth motherboard (R2.0 GEN 3), there is a new BIOS that was released yesterday. The details are below along with the download link.

*Model(s):* SABERTOOTH 990FX/GEN3 R2.0 BIOS 1903

*Release Date:* 2013-August-01

*BIOS Version*: 1903

*File Size:* ~ 3.2MB

*Changelog/Update(s):* Fixed Power On By RTC function failed.

*Download Page:* http://support.asus.com/download.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=SABERTOOTH%20990FX/GEN3%20R2.0&p=1&s=24&os=30&hashedid=8YcYZWliJkA2dK8D

Please report/respond with any problems/issues after installing this update.

Tnx

Tim

N9NU


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n9nu*
> 
> For those users that have the latest Asus 990FX Sabertooth motherboard (R2.0 GEN 3), there is a new BIOS that was released yesterday. The details are below along with the download link.
> 
> *Model(s):* SABERTOOTH 990FX/GEN3 R2.0 BIOS 1903
> 
> *Release Date:* 2013-August-01
> *BIOS Version*: 1903
> *File Size:* ~ 3.2MB
> *Changelog/Update(s):* Fixed Power On By RTC function failed.
> 
> *Download Page:* http://support.asus.com/download.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=SABERTOOTH%20990FX/GEN3%20R2.0&p=1&s=24&os=30&hashedid=8YcYZWliJkA2dK8D
> 
> Please report/respond with any problems/issues after installing this update.
> 
> Tnx
> 
> Tim
> N9NU


Ugh, just when I started my overclock today. I think I'll stick with 1802. I don't think I'll need 1903 because I don't even know what it fixes


----------



## Benjyyyy

Pay after all my issues with my patriot memory I ordered some cheap Kingston 4g ram and it arrived today. Good news! Managed to get into the bios







. Currently reinstalling windows and hopefully this will also fix the problem from my old motherboard of my CPU running at half speed.

Once everything is installed ill join this good old club.


----------



## Mega Man

glad it worked out !~


----------



## CannedBullets

http://www.overclock.net/t/1415547/does-this-look-good-to-use-as-a-vrm-fan

Right so this is the VRM fan I'm going to use.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjyyyy*
> 
> Pay after all my issues with my patriot memory I ordered some cheap Kingston 4g ram and it arrived today. Good news! Managed to get into the bios
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Currently reinstalling windows and hopefully this will also fix the problem from my old motherboard of my CPU running at half speed.
> 
> Once everything is installed ill join this good old club.


awesome.. I tried playing with that ram it sucks for overclocking it







the patriots that is

Glad you figured out the issue


----------



## Benjyyyy

Any chance of adding me too this glorious list?

http://valid.canardpc.com/2881198


----------



## Mega Man

welcome !~


----------



## CannedBullets

I get that the VRM heatsink is designed for aircooling. But the AMD stock fan gets extremely loud at 4200 RPM even though I set it to the lowest possible speed (60%) in the bios. Would it okay if I just left my VRM fan unplugged after I get 4.5 GHz stable?


----------



## WinterActual

Guys I decided to go for the ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 because I can't stand this GB joke UD3. Its just TERRIBLE, I will never buy another GB mobo ever again. So can you tell me if this 990FX R2.0 is a good choice? Is it a worthy mb?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WinterActual*
> 
> Guys I decided to go for the ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 because I can't stand this GB joke UD3. Its just TERRIBLE, I will never buy another GB mobo ever again. So can you tell me if this 990FX R2.0 is a good choice? Is it a worthy mb?


I have stable 5.1 on it and can clock ram to 2400 from 1866 so I think it is

Results may very but good clocker


----------



## CannedBullets

Yeah after I get 4.5 GHz stable I'm going to unplug my VRM fan. That thing is way too loud.


----------



## WinterActual

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> I have stable 5.1 on it and can clock ram to 2400 from 1866 so I think it is
> 
> Results may very but good clocker


Thanks for the reply man!


----------



## Darklyric

Yea i have the rev2 Non gen 3 and its great for vrm temps and everything else.


----------



## Benjyyyy

Having never owned an asus motherboard or an uefi bios I was just wondering what this optimal performance button actually did and if its worth using?


----------



## Pudfark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WinterActual*
> 
> Guys I decided to go for the ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 because I can't stand this GB joke UD3. Its just TERRIBLE, I will never buy another GB mobo ever again. So can you tell me if this 990FX R2.0 is a good choice? Is it a worthy mb?


I went from a UD3 rev. 1.1 "warped board" to the Asus sabertooth R2 (not gen 3) with the same amd 8350 and have only praise for Asus.
Make the change, just do it. I've had my Asus board for three months now and I'd bet that I'll have it three years from now.

Good Luck


----------



## CannedBullets

Just asking but what's so bad about the UD3? My friend might get that board and he's planning to overclock.


----------



## skline00

Great MB. I have an 8320 OC in one. Solid OCer


----------



## Pudfark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Just asking but what's so bad about the UD3? My friend might get that board and he's planning to overclock.


Blazing hot VRM's with 8 core AMD Cpu's. If you you OC much, will eventually warp the UD3 board...not to mention the board downclocks the CPU.
Had my UD3 for one year with an AMD 955 @ 3.8 ghz, no problem. Then put 8350 on the board and two months later, with issue after issue, to include downclocking, overheating VRMs, board was warped. I have been a Giga fan for more than ten years. My bad buying the UD3 and trying to Oclock it.

Just read the "Ozz" posts here. Nobody can explain it better than him. Just like it was my money, it's your money to spend. Same thing for time and frustration. Whatever you choose, I hope it works for you.


----------



## Pudfark

Whoopsies....Look up Ozz on the Gigabyte 990FX boards here at OCN. The whole story is there and some of my comments as well.

The Sabertooth is built like a brick outhouse compared to the UD3 board.

Good Luck


----------



## Darklyric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> Whoopsies....Look up Ozz on the Gigabyte 990FX boards here at OCN. The whole story is there and some of my comments as well.
> 
> The Sabertooth is built like a brick outhouse compared to the UD3 board.
> 
> Good Luck


Tis true and ive heard of the ud3 warping and frying vrms with 6 core x6 1100's and fx 6300's when oc'd.... to bad they bought their vrms from msi lol, it could have been a nice board.(an assumption)


----------



## CannedBullets

I think I'll tell my friend to get an Asus M5A99X instead. I'd tell him to get a Sabertooth but that's out of his budget.


----------



## Mega Man

i would not reccomend it,buy some 40mm fans they work well for vrm cooling. could you sure. but temps on the vrms are troublesome with liquid cooling


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i would not reccomend it,buy some 40mm fans they work well for vrm cooling. could you sure. but temps on the vrms are troublesome with liquid cooling


40 mm fans for VRM cooling? Don't they sound annoying because of how high pitched they can get?


----------



## Mega Man

umm idk i dont use them personally. but the guy that does said they are super quiet. dont need much cfm or static pressure


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> umm idk i dont use them personally. but the guy that does said they are super quiet. dont need much cfm or static pressure


The noiseblocker or noctua 40mms would be perfect, albeit expensive.


----------



## Darklyric

is the vrm temp on the saberooth rev2 non gen3 inside or outside and what temps are you guys getting on yours?


----------



## Mega Man

mounted on the board and i was ~ 40 @ load


----------



## Pudfark

All of what Mega Man said above.









And maybe some of this, note in my sig I use an Antec SpotFan on the VRMs. I also use a Corsair H110 closedloop cooler, which probably contributed to my "warped" UD3. I did not have the spotfan on my UD3 VRM's. When I rebuilt my system with the Sabertooth, I put an 80mm fan on the backside of the mobo to cool the cpu VRM area. I have zero heat problems now and have been running 4.6 ghz on my 8350.

I'm really not trying to "slam" Gigabyte. It's just that the UD3 boards won't hack a reasonable overclock with a 8 core processor and liquid cooling. The why of it doesn't matter to me, I went Sabertooth to solve the problem.

Again, All of what Mega Man said above...


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> 40 mm fans for VRM cooling? Don't they sound annoying because of how high pitched they can get?


On the saberkitten I had (and sold to a mate) the vrm bit was cooled by two noiseblocker 40mm fans, spinning sub 1000 rpm (thus: dead quiet). That was all that was needed, a bit of air movement / -flow. And the buggers were damn cheap, too: less than €5 a piece.

A pair of Noiseblocker XM1 fans should do the trick (<-- which were what I had, I think)
http://www.blacknoise.com/en/products/it/12/Noiseblocker-NB_BlackSilentFan_40mm

Compared to the sound of the AMD stock cooler fan it'd be a difference of night and day, I'd wager.

Checked on Noiseblocker's site, and a local Micro Center might be able to get them for you.
Most US resellers seem to be MC.


----------



## Darklyric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> mounted on the board and i was ~ 40 @ load


Exactly what im getting at 4.8 1.45vcore but the cpu sits at around 38 so maybe ill throw a spot fan on it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> Exactly what im getting at 4.8 1.45vcore but the cpu sits at around 38 so maybe ill throw a spot fan on it.


they dont have much difference. i have pushed 1.7v and had no problems with vrm temps


----------



## Darklyric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they dont have much difference. i have pushed 1.7v and had no problems with vrm temps


scrap that then lol ty for saving me the hassle


----------



## Mega Man

dont get me wrong i had a fan on mine as i am watercooled


----------



## Nobsod35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WinterActual*
> 
> Guys I decided to go for the ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 because I can't stand this GB joke UD3. Its just TERRIBLE, I will never buy another GB mobo ever again. So can you tell me if this 990FX R2.0 is a good choice? Is it a worthy mb?


have had my mobo for like 3 months and is running strong the highest my temps ever got where after a 1.5 hour prime95 test run, CPU got to 47c, Mobo 35c, vrm 1 49c, vrm 2 48c this is with no Overclocking, when I do overclock it to 4.2 it seems to run cooler. has been the best mobo I have ever had, hope it gets me through a few good years of gaming.


----------



## Darklyric

is your vcore set to auto? usually over volts if i set it to auto fyi so you can probably get a higher oc with those same temps if it is


----------



## Nobsod35

vcore, in what program would that auto feature be turned off in. Is that in my AI suite thermal sensor


----------



## Darklyric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nobsod35*
> 
> vcore, in what program would that auto feature be turned off in. Is that in my AI suite thermal sensor


yea its there but you want to lock it down in your bios. Should be under voltage setting in ai tuner or w/e its called. Try like 1.375 and see what your temps are at 4.2 ghz all cores enabled.

Also do you have hwinfo or hwmonitor that you can compare vrm and cpu load and idle temps (aisuite is great) just want to see if my issues of random idle temps are an anomaly. Also watch your load Vcore which is near the bottom in hwinfo and hwmonitor and see what you get.


----------



## EniGma1987

Anyone know how to turn off the slave cores on the FX processors? I only see the options for modules disabled, which would mean a pair of CPUs gets disabled together. I am on bios version 1604, motherboard revision 1.0


----------



## Darklyric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> Anyone know how to turn off the slave cores on the FX processors? I only see the options for modules disabled, which would mean a pair of CPUs gets disabled together. I am on bios version 1604, motherboard revision 1.0


what exactly is a slave core? If you just want to turn off a few cores it should be under the advanced bios(f7 enter) advanced tab (3rd from left) cpu features and disable cores or something like that...maybe core states i forget.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> what exactly is a slave core? If you just want to turn off a few cores it should be under the advanced bios(f7 enter) advanced tab (3rd from left) cpu features and disable cores or something like that...maybe core states i forget.


you turn off modules not cores on these new fx chips


----------



## Benjyyyy

I'm still on the hunt for some decent RAM, does anyone know if these would work with the board or if they have them in theirs?

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MY-307-CS&tool=3

Or anymore recommendations for anything around the same price or lower.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjyyyy*
> 
> I'm still on the hunt for some decent RAM, does anyone know if these would work with the board or if they have them in theirs?
> 
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MY-307-CS&tool=3
> 
> Or anymore recommendations for anything around the same price or lower.


This is what I have running at 2133 at 8 8 8 24 1t http://www.crucial.com/store/partspecs.aspx?IMODULE=BLT2KIT4G3D1869DT2TXOB


----------



## Nobsod35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> yea its there but you want to lock it down in your bios. Should be under voltage setting in ai tuner or w/e its called. Try like 1.375 and see what your temps are at 4.2 ghz all cores enabled.
> 
> Also do you have hwinfo or hwmonitor that you can compare vrm and cpu load and idle temps (aisuite is great) just want to see if my issues of random idle temps are an anomaly. Also watch your load Vcore which is near the bottom in hwinfo and hwmonitor and see what you get.


one of them does not work, not sure which one it was, hwmonitor or hwinfo. I have Hwcpuid that works but with the others since all the sensors on the Sabertooth mobo it would mess up give error messages and have really strange temp and usage readings.


----------



## Darklyric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> you turn off modules not cores on these new fx chips


which in a sense is disabling that particular core right? Also i was mainly trying to explain how to do it the bios.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nobsod35*
> 
> vcore, in what program would that auto feature be turned off in. Is that in my AI suite thermal sensor


dont use ai suite i do use a stripped down version for the usb boots and stuff... but none of the monitors/ sensors at all... they are very buggy
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> yea its there but you want to lock it down in your bios. Should be under voltage setting in ai tuner or w/e its called. Try like 1.375 and see what your temps are at 4.2 ghz all cores enabled.
> 
> Also do you have hwinfo or hwmonitor that you can compare vrm and cpu load and idle temps (aisuite is great) just want to see if my issues of random idle temps are an anomaly. Also watch your load Vcore which is near the bottom in hwinfo and hwmonitor and see what you get.


+1 hwinfo64 NOT hwmonitor
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> you turn off modules not cores on these new fx chips


+1 i guess there are some bios that let you disable cores though
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjyyyy*
> 
> I'm still on the hunt for some decent RAM, does anyone know if these would work with the board or if they have them in theirs?
> 
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MY-307-CS&tool=3
> 
> Or anymore recommendations for anything around the same price or lower.


i can tell you you can run 2400 np on this board
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> which in a sense is disabling that particular core right? Also i was mainly trying to explain how to do it the bios.


no you disable both cores in a module some boards can do it however i dont think the saberkitty can.

i got quadfire guys !~ now to set it up... need to order my blocks. will probably do it tonight ( so they can fit ) and a pcie riser to move it down a slot. i may end up buying a third ( buying my wife a 8350 +CVFz ) 8350 to put back in my saberkitty i love this board. better voltage reg imo then the CVFz
\


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> dont use ai suite i do use a stripped down version for the usb boots and stuff... but none of the monitors/ sensors at all... they are very buggy
> +1 hwinfo64 NOT hwmonitor
> +1 i guess there are some bios that let you disable cores though
> i can tell you you can run 2400 np on this board
> no you disable both cores in a module some boards can do it however i dont think the saberkitty can.
> 
> i got quadfire guys !~ now to set it up... need to order my blocks. will probably do it tonight ( so they can fit ) and a pcie riser to move it down a slot. i may end up buying a third ( buying my wife a 8350 +CVFz ) 8350 to put back in my saberkitty i love this board. better voltage reg imo then the CVFz
> \


+1 Saberkitteh is limited to module not core.. Most FX boards of they were able to have been revised in BIOS only heard of maybe 2 or 3 boards that could disable individual cores... 95% will be per module unfortunately


----------



## CannedBullets

I think instead of a VRM fan I'll order two extra case fans and fit them in the side panel of my Corsair C70 and have them blow air onto the motherboard. I'm getting an H100i so the temps should be better by a few degrees also.


----------



## Pudfark

@CannedBullets

I tried that, it didn't work for me. I have an Antec LanBoy Air case. Cpu cooled with H110 Corsair Liquid cooler. Two of the 120mm fans pointed directly at VRM's, Cpu and Memory and still the VRM's on my
Gigglebyte 990fx Ud3 board got so hot they warped the board. What I did was an Antec Spotfan directly on the VRM's at 1/2 inch distance and then on the back side of the board at contact distance an 80mm fan.
All has been very good since on my Saberkitty. The old giggle board is pretty much trash or maybe not with a lesser cpu.

There are several really experienced folks on this forum. They give excellent clear advice. I have saved myself a lot of time and frustration, by taking/following their advice.
Hope this helps and thanks to all of those who have helped me.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> @CannedBullets
> 
> I tried that, it didn't work for me. I have an Antec LanBoy Air case. Cpu cooled with H110 Corsair Liquid cooler. Two of the 120mm fans pointed directly at VRM's, Cpu and Memory and still the VRM's on my
> Gigglebyte 990fx Ud3 board got so hot they warped the board. What I did was an Antec Spotfan directly on the VRM's at 1/2 inch distance and then on the back side of the board at contact distance an 80mm fan.
> All has been very good since on my Saberkitty. The old giggle board is pretty much trash or maybe not with a lesser cpu.
> 
> There are several really experienced folks on this forum. They give excellent clear advice. I have saved myself a lot of time and frustration, by taking/following their advice.
> Hope this helps and thanks to all of those who have helped me.


Yeah I heard the UD3 had warping issues.

Would a single 60 mm fan be good enough as a VRM fan.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Yeah I heard the UD3 had warping issues.
> 
> Would a single 60 mm fan be good enough as a VRM fan.


I'd think so. Like I said: the area doesn't need that much airflow, just some to get the air moving round the heatsink for it to do it's job better.

So a 60 on the middle should help a lot. I choose for two 40mm ones because they were cheap (so just because I could, really ;-p ).

Good luck and keep us posted!


----------



## WeirdHarold

Sorry if this has been asked already but I don't have time to search through nearly 550 pages for an answer.

I'm still running an 1100T in the REV 1 Sabertooth board and I'm still sporting the Bios version that it came with and I'm now considering upgrading to the FX-8350. What would be the best Bios version to update to for the best match?


----------



## Mega Man

yes


----------



## Tater00nuts

any ideas why my keyboard will work on the POST screen but not on the Windows Error Recovery screen? power went out and when it got to that screen i had to wait for it to choose start normally, "enter" wouldn't work, arrows wouldn't change options. keyboard works everywhere else: POST, BIOS, in windows. i even tried another keyboard with no luck.

if this is the wrong place to post this can someone point me in the right direction?


----------



## MINE

Has anyone try out the asus fastboot mode, what kind of time do you get with a ssd? Do you have to install windows 8 in uefi mode for it to work or you can just install it regular and set uefi after?


----------



## Darklyric

ud3 is fine for 4 cores and pushing it for 6 cores from what i hear. 6 core= dont oc much and 4 core is all good but i could be wrong. Still spend 20$ more and get a better vrm on the ud5 or asrock equivalent imo.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tater00nuts*
> 
> any ideas why my keyboard will work on the POST screen but not on the Windows Error Recovery screen? power went out and when it got to that screen i had to wait for it to choose start normally, "enter" wouldn't work, arrows wouldn't change options. keyboard works everywhere else: POST, BIOS, in windows. i even tried another keyboard with no luck.
> 
> if this is the wrong place to post this can someone point me in the right direction?


sometimes i have to unplug my keyboard for it to work... weird i know....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> ud3 is fine for 4 cores and pushing it for 6 cores from what i hear. 6 core= dont oc much and 4 core is all good but i could be wrong. Still spend 20$ more and get a better vrm on the ud5 or asrock equivalent imo.


meh depends on the 970 if it is ok or not. ( giga is the only one i know that has dec power delivery, talk to the OP in the 83xx club he is good with giga boards.


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Ever since I got this board it hangs on the mobo splash screen requiring me to press and hold the power button to shut down, press it again and then it boots right up no problem. This happens every 2nd or 3rd boot (I shut down my system every night).

My system is overclocked to 4.3 but even on 100% default settings it still does the same thing. I upgraded my bios from 1503 to the 1903 and now it hangs pretty much every time I boot up (so every time I fire up my system it's a two step process...)

I decided to downgrade back to 1503 and it seems to be back to every other/every 3rd boot I end up going through this.

Any ideas?

Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

try changing the battery.


----------



## Nobsod35

Agreeing with Mega man, was just about to mention the same thing, change the battery on the mobo..


----------



## Darklyric

Or try an bios in between im on 1701 or 2 w/e it is on my saberkitty 990fx rev 2 non gen 3 and it runs great and is extremely stable at low voltage ocs (booted 5 ghz at 1.415 vcore)


----------



## hucklebuck

What is the current bios for the Sabertooth R2.0, not gen 3? I have 1708.


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> try changing the battery.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nobsod35*
> 
> Agreeing with Mega man, was just about to mention the same thing, change the battery on the mobo..


I'll give it a shot, thanks









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> Or try an bios in between im on 1701 or 2 w/e it is on my saberkitty 990fx rev 2 non gen 3 and it runs great and is extremely stable at low voltage ocs (booted 5 ghz at 1.415 vcore)


Didn't think of that because those bios didn't seem to have anything to do with my system. Only went with the 1903 because it mentioned something about the RTC power on function (thought it might be related to my issue..)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> What is the current bios for the Sabertooth R2.0, not gen 3? I have 1708.


I believe the 1903 is the most current bios for the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> I'll give it a shot, thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't think of that because those bios didn't seem to have anything to do with my system. Only went with the 1903 because it mentioned something about the RTC power on function (thought it might be related to my issue..)
> I believe the 1903 is the most current bios for the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0


Thanks







+rep


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +rep


Thanks and you're welcome


----------



## coldturkey25466

Hey guys I bought a SABERTOOTH 990FX/GEN3 R2.0 from microcenter...
Here is the issue I am running into. I have a Cooler Master quick fire pro keyboard. The mobo does not detect the keyboard at all.
I updated the BIOS to the latest one and still nothing. Currently using a old keyboard I had.
ugh.
I looked around the web but all I see is that some 990fx's mobos not delivering enough power to the USB.
I tried USB2.0 and 3.0 and nothing has worked so far.
Thoughts? i really like it and i dont want to return it as the only other option is the gigabyte 990fx


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coldturkey25466*
> 
> Hey guys I bought a SABERTOOTH 990FX/GEN3 R2.0 from microcenter...
> Here is the issue I am running into. I have a Cooler Master quick fire pro keyboard. The mobo does not detect the keyboard at all.
> I updated the BIOS to the latest one and still nothing. Currently using a old keyboard I had.
> ugh.
> I looked around the web but all I see is that some 990fx's mobos not delivering enough power to the USB.
> I tried USB2.0 and 3.0 and nothing has worked so far.
> Thoughts? i really like it and i dont want to return it as the only other option is the gigabyte 990fx


Did you try the Cooler Master keyboard on a different PC? It sounds like its an issue with the keyboard.


----------



## MINE

Found my answer thanks dixson01974


----------



## Darklyric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MINE*
> 
> Found my answer thanks dixson01974


did you get it working? I'm using a logitec g15 and flashes crazy during boots haft the time and wont let me get into the bios. I looks like power delivery to me honestly but ive tried all the usb ports and also all the usb drivers for charging and usb3.0 and it still does it aobut every other boot. Thanks


----------



## MINE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> did you get it working? I'm using a logitec g15 and flashes crazy during boots haft the time and wont let me get into the bios. I looks like power delivery to me honestly but ive tried all the usb ports and also all the usb drivers for charging and usb3.0 and it still does it aobut every other boot. Thanks


I was asking him if I can run these 2400 DDR3 at that speed, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-231-587 on the ASUS M5A99FX PRO R2.0 AM3+ board so he said yes . Did you have the same question as mine?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> did you get it working? I'm using a logitec g15 and flashes crazy during boots haft the time and wont let me get into the bios. I looks like power delivery to me honestly but ive tried all the usb ports and also all the usb drivers for charging and usb3.0 and it still does it aobut every other boot. Thanks


i have a g15 i can never had any problems with and i use a g510 also never had any problems with .....
( i have had to un;plug the keyboard and plug it in to get it to work some times )
you can always use the direct key too btw. there is an easy mod you can use in my sig or you can just use the reset button


----------



## By-Tor

Has anyone removed the heatsinks and factory paste from the 990FX R2.0 MB and applied Arctic Silver?

My MB and 8350 come in tomorrow and wonder if its worth doing.


----------



## Darklyric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Has anyone removed the heatsinks and factory paste from the 990FX R2.0 MB and applied Arctic Silver?
> 
> My MB and 8350 come in tomorrow and wonder if its worth doing.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Has anyone removed the heatsinks and factory paste from the 990FX R2.0 MB and applied Arctic Silver?
> 
> My MB and 8350 come in tomorrow and wonder if its worth doing.


I did'nt and the vrm temps are rock stable at high ocs so i wouldnt go through the trouble. Also AS5 is partially conductive so i wouldn't use that even if you decide to do it. Noctura is pretty good i think its dh14 or something like that just double check on the conductive part though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MINE*
> 
> I was asking him if I can run these 2400 DDR3 at that speed, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-231-587 on the ASUS M5A99FX PRO R2.0 AM3+ board so he said yes . Did you have the same question as mine?


Naw i was talking about the guy having keyboard issues which ill trump up to my keyboard atm.


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Has anyone removed the heatsinks and factory paste from the 990FX R2.0 MB and applied Arctic Silver?
> 
> My MB and 8350 come in tomorrow and wonder if its worth doing.


Someone in another thread did just that and fried his vrm's. If your gonna do it, use MX4 or a non conductive non capacitive paste. What comes on there is pretty good to begin with, just leave it alone. If it aint broke don't fix it.


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> I did'nt and the vrm temps are rock stable at high ocs so i wouldnt go through the trouble. Also AS5 is partially conductive so i wouldn't use that even if you decide to do it. Noctura is pretty good i think its dh14 or something like that just double check on the conductive part though.
> Naw i was talking about the guy having keyboard issues which ill trump up to my keyboard atm.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Someone in another thread did just that and fried his vrm's. If your gonna do it, use MX4 or a non conductive non capacitive paste. What comes on there is pretty good to begin with, just leave it alone. If it aint broke don't fix it.


I'll just leave them alone...

Thanks


----------



## Noviets

Hey guys, I just had the exposed wires from a fan adapter touch somethin in my case, near the top right corner by the dimms.

The system booted back up fine, after scaring the absolute crap out of me, all my memory and everything seems to be fine.

The little black capasitor near the top right of the board has blown, what does it do/used for? Should I be worried?


----------



## Mega Man

that doesnt look like a cap to me.. i can not think of the name... that is what happens when you get less then 5 hours of sleep but i am 99% sure it isnt a cap.


----------



## Noviets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> 40 mm fans for VRM cooling? Don't they sound annoying because of how high pitched they can get?


Use the stock fan from the AMD generic Heatsink that comes with your chip. It has speed control so it will not be loud unless it needs to be.

I just popped mine off from the 8350 stock cooler, actually giving it a purpose. I have to say, it's alot quieter than I thought it would be, and it's dropped my temps by around 4C.


----------



## coldturkey25466

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> I did'nt and the vrm temps are rock stable at high ocs so i wouldnt go through the trouble. Also AS5 is partially conductive so i wouldn't use that even if you decide to do it. Noctura is pretty good i think its dh14 or something like that just double check on the conductive part though.
> Naw i was talking about the guy having keyboard issues which ill trump up to my keyboard atm.


I called CM and they told they have reports of some 990FX boards not working property. They said I should use a DC powered USB hub to make it work.

I am not sure I want to go that route.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Use the stock fan from the AMD generic Heatsink that comes with your chip. It has speed control so it will not be loud unless it needs to be.
> 
> I just popped mine off from the 8350 stock cooler, actually giving it a purpose. I have to say, it's alot quieter than I thought it would be, and it's dropped my temps by around 4C.


I did thta until I got 4.5 GHz stable. Then I took the VRM fan off, the stock fan from the stock heatsink is just way too loud. I might get a 60 mm noiseblocker but my temps are good.


----------



## DeeJaySypki

Hello
I'm new owner of sabertooth rev1.0.1 and [email protected] (old mobo with jumping FSB 6x3900 jumping to 6x4000 1.44v).
Now i don't have time to do OC so it is only stock speed x6 1.164v.

There is any program like k10stat for sabertooth becouse k10stat dont control voltage :/ only speed like CnQ from mobo (only speed, no voltage) ?


----------



## By-Tor

My new MB and 8350 came in today....

It's been 4 years since my last upgrade and I'm due!!!

The Ultimate Force

http://s747.photobucket.com/user/Bytor_Photo2112/media/IMG_1973_zps3549e1cc.jpg.html

Taken at the Virginia War Museum


----------



## Darklyric

^^^have nice pic man

I'll try my powered usb hub tonight and report back with my findings but i know they are cheap like 5-10$ for a decent one.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeeJaySypki*
> 
> Hello
> I'm new owner of sabertooth rev1.0.1 and [email protected] (old mobo with jumping FSB 6x3900 jumping to 6x4000 1.44v).
> Now i don't have time to do OC so it is only stock speed x6 1.164v.
> 
> There is any program like k10stat for sabertooth becouse k10stat dont control voltage :/ only speed like CnQ from mobo (only speed, no voltage) ?


Just set vcore in the bios man it way better than software. Also bump up that multiplier ify our cooling can handle a 6core chip.


----------



## DeeJaySypki

Probably you are right








I just want to do low power consumption under long download files







I will try TurboV Evo program to change voltage but i like k10stat


----------



## coldturkey25466

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> ^^^have nice pic man
> 
> I'll try my powered usb hub tonight and report back with my findings but i know they are cheap like 5-10$ for a decent one.
> Just set vcore in the bios man it way better than software. Also bump up that multiplier ify our cooling can handle a 6core chip.


Let me know.
Just make sure it is a DC powered, not just a regular USB hub. But try that anyway.


----------



## Darklyric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coldturkey25466*
> 
> Let me know.
> Just make sure it is a DC powered, not just a regular USB hub. But try that anyway.


Yea its not dc but ill try it(missed that part)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeeJaySypki*
> 
> Probably you are right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just want to do low power consumption under long download files
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will try TurboV Evo program to change voltage but i like k10stat


You could lower clocks and undervolt in the bios and enable all the power saving features but this is ocn lol.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

HAS any one ever removed the STOCK VRM cooler ?? 
Whats under there PADS or PASTE ?
Is it possible to change the thermal compound under there to lower temps ? THANKS


----------



## Mega Man

pretty sure vrms are pads 99% of the time they are NB/SB hit or miss pads/paste. is it possible yes ( please use NON CONDUCTIVE/CAPACITIVE

you should put your rig in your sig !~
a fan works amazing on the vrms and NB for temps esp helpful when OCing and WCing


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Hey guys, I just had the exposed wires from a fan adapter touch somethin in my case, near the top right corner by the dimms.
> 
> The system booted back up fine, after scaring the absolute crap out of me, all my memory and everything seems to be fine.
> 
> The little black capasitor near the top right of the board has blown, what does it do/used for? Should I be worried?


Your unfortunate demise is a transistor. It may be the driver for one of the onboard fan connections so if you don't use that connector, then no harm no foul. You can try a fan at each of the connectors and see if one does not function. It may be related to PWM control of a fan connector, so it may prevent fan speed control via onboard software or BIOS. I cannot say what that transistor IS actually for, these are only guesses.
Good Luck!


----------



## Tater00nuts

I ended up calling tech support because of my keyboard issues and they said to send it in for RMA because it sounded like the USB was hanging. It wouldn't let me "press any key to boot from cd" or change to safe mode on the Windows Error Recovery screen. Hopefully the issue is resolved, it has been working fine all this time and I can't think of any changes that would have caused this to happen. Only recent change is swapping to a new SSD and adding an H100i, but it worked fine for installing Windows on the new drive so it had to be after that.


----------



## Nobsod35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> I'll give it a shot, thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't think of that because those bios didn't seem to have anything to do with my system. Only went with the 1903 because it mentioned something about the RTC power on function (thought it might be related to my issue..)
> I believe the 1903 is the most current bios for the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0


I am still using the bios version 1503 that came with the board and still have not had any problems, all the bios updates are for nothing that seems to concern me. Should I still update it anyway was told not to unless I have a issue


----------



## By-Tor

^^ My MB came in yesterday and has this Bios also and was thinking about trying the USB Flashback feature to update it.

Has anyone tried the flashback to update yet?


----------



## Nobsod35

no have not, just been using my 1503 bios, was told not to update it from Asus unless I have a issue with this bios. 


Here are some pics of my rig, these pics do need updated since I have gotten new items since theses pics


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> ^^ My MB came in yesterday and has this Bios also and was thinking about trying the USB Flashback feature to update it.
> 
> Has anyone tried the flashback to update yet?


several times !~ really easy look in your manual

format a flash drive to fat32
download driver file
rename driver file ( this is what you will need to look in your manual for, each mobo with this feature has a different name needed. my manual is in the other room or i would, sorry

power off. press flashback button and hold till it flashes. when it is done your done

( file has to be on root folder
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nobsod35*
> 
> no have not, just been using my 1503 bios, was told not to update it from Asus unless I have a issue with this bios.
> 
> 
> Here are some pics of my rig, these pics do need updated since I have gotten new items since theses pics


nice !~


----------



## By-Tor

It says you just need power to the MB to flash it with the USB drive. Mine is still in its box (waiting on Windows 7 from Newegg), but do you think I could just power the MB laying on top of the box and flash it to the new BIOS?


----------



## Darklyric

I flashed in the bios with the ezflash tool without renaming it to 1708 from a 4gb fat32 flashdrive. Is that a problem?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> I flashed in the bios with the ezflash tool without renaming it to 1708 from a 4gb fat32 flashdrive. Is that a problem?


you dont rename it to 1708 , and you didnt flash it, i guarantee it, you have to rename to something like sabertoothr20 or something like that. look in your manual


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> I flashed in the bios with the ezflash tool without renaming it to 1708 from a 4gb fat32 flashdrive. Is that a problem?


Why not use EZ Flash in the bios? No need to rename files that way, just extract the bios file and put it on a fat32 flashdrive.


----------



## Mega Man

o i just misread what he said sorry. i thought he ment the flash bios button :/ sorry


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> o i just misread what he said sorry. i thought he ment the flash bios button :/ sorry


Whoa I had a brain fart also. I thought he was using hte bios flashback button because he mentioned renaming it. Which you don't need to do for EZ Flash.


----------



## Mega Man

exactly why i thought so as well LOL


----------



## LoneWolf3574

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tater00nuts*
> 
> I ended up calling tech support because of my keyboard issues and they said to send it in for RMA because it sounded like the USB was hanging. It wouldn't let me "press any key to boot from cd" or change to safe mode on the Windows Error Recovery screen. Hopefully the issue is resolved, it has been working fine all this time and I can't think of any changes that would have caused this to happen. Only recent change is swapping to a new SSD and adding an H100i, but it worked fine for installing Windows on the new drive so it had to be after that.


Funny, now that I think about it, I had the same issue before mine bricked. It doesn't change my opinion about these boards though, they're still great, I just happen to get one that spazzed. I'm just waiting on the RMA now, I should have it Monday or Tuesday.


----------



## automaton

got mobo a few days ago

cpu fan has a deley in startup

does greenled stay on after shutdown?


----------



## SwishaMane

So, am I the only one left with an original R1 sabertooth that works perfect still?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *automaton*
> 
> got mobo a few days ago
> cpu fan has a deley in startup
> does greenled stay on after shutdown?


Yes it does, lets you know mobo has power.


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> So, am I the only one left with an original R1 sabertooth that works perfect still?


I have had no problems with my Rev 1 board, working fine since first power up.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> So, am I the only one left with an original R1 sabertooth that works perfect still?.


No, and yes.

Mine is still going strong.

Though I sold it with a FX 4170 @ 4.8 GHz off to a friend as an upgrade from a 785 chipset mobo with an Athlon II 250.

Other than the fact I jumped ship to a Z77 with an 3570K,(mainly because I could - my friend wanted an upgrade and I wanted to try something new) the Saberkitten R1 is still running strong


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> So, am I the only one left with an original R1 sabertooth that works perfect still?


Nope, rev 1 owner here with a water cooled 8350 @ 5GHz daily driver. It has seen 5.47 GHz for a benchmark on hwbot (beaten by the one and only Mega Man)


----------



## SwishaMane

Cool! I can boot 5ghz but not stable, at 1.52vCore. I dont understand all the volt options enough to dial in 5ghz stable, if its possible. I got good RAM tho, Corsair Dominator Platinums, 1866, at 960Mhz (1920) right now.


----------



## Mr357

I still use my Sabertooth R1, but only for benching on DICE. It got my 960T to 5.4GHz and my 1090t to 4.9GHz.


----------



## DeeJaySypki

@Mr357
Nice OC








Can you put some screen with bios option for good OC or write how change strategic option for OC ?
I'm new owner of r1.0.1 and 960Tx6 + Mugen2 and don't understand some OC option in bios, there is a little moor option to OC then in my old mobo and i don't know how they work :/

THX for any info


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> So, am I the only one left with an original R1 sabertooth that works perfect still?
> Yes it does, lets you know mobo has power.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Nope, rev 1 owner here with a water cooled 8350 @ 5GHz daily driver. It has seen 5.47 GHz for a benchmark on hwbot (beaten by the one and only Mega Man)


we were beat supposedly by dinky and alatar... he was on L2N ... and a bunch of core2duos on L2N

that place is full of cheats.... unless the rules changed. it said you had to be on water or air


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> we were beat supposedly by dinky and alatar... he was on L2N ... and a bunch of core2duos on L2N
> 
> that place is full of cheats.... unless the rules changed. it said you had to be on water or air


Dang that sucks!! I feel way behind and out of touch, summertime and a ton hours working. This winter it will slow down and I can play more.


----------



## By-Tor

My new hardware came in the middle of last week and finally got around to installing it last night.

http://s747.photobucket.com/user/Bytor_Photo2112/media/IMG_1964_zps49fb9a13.jpg.html

http://s747.photobucket.com/user/Bytor_Photo2112/media/IMG_2009_zpsda6d2551.jpg.html

http://s747.photobucket.com/user/Bytor_Photo2112/media/IMG_2064_zps1b39ded2.jpg.html

http://s747.photobucket.com/user/Bytor_Photo2112/media/IMG_2062_zpsd169bbd1.jpg.html

http://s747.photobucket.com/user/Bytor_Photo2112/media/IMG_2148_zpsda4b0e91.jpg.html

http://s747.photobucket.com/user/Bytor_Photo2112/media/CPUID_zpsdbb8ea58.jpg.html


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeeJaySypki*
> 
> @Mr357
> Nice OC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you put some screen with bios option for good OC or write how change strategic option for OC ?
> I'm new owner of r1.0.1 and 960Tx6 + Mugen2 and don't understand some OC option in bios, there is a little moor option to OC then in my old mobo and i don't know how they work :/
> 
> THX for any info


Are you on air/water? Or DICE/LN2?


----------



## DeeJaySypki

On air Mugen 2 + 2xSlipStrem 120mm (nothing special)
I need to know how those special option in Sabertooth change for example 6x4GHZ







or meyby its nothing important and leave it to AUTO :E









Option like:
CPU current capability ?
CPU power phase control ?
... and moor ...

most important:
speed - 6x4000Mhz
CPU/NB - 3000Mhz
vcore - 1.404v
Cpu/nb - 1.3v


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeeJaySypki*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On air Mugen 2 + 2xSlipStrem 120mm (nothing special)
> I need to know how those special option in Sabertooth change for example 6x4GHZ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or meyby its nothing important and leave it to AUTO :E
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Option like:
> CPU current capability ?
> CPU power phase control ?
> ... and moor ...
> 
> most important:
> speed - 6x4000Mhz
> CPU/NB - 3000Mhz
> vcore - 1.404v
> Cpu/nb - 1.3v


Okay, You always want to start by disabling Turbo, C1E, Cool n' Quiet, and all spread spectrums.

As for current capability on an overbuilt board like the Sabertooth I think it's fine to leave at 100%. The only setting I would leave at auto is voltage frequency. Various voltages other than Vcore and CPU/NB should just be set to their default (ex: VDDA - 2.5V, NB 1.8 - 1.8V, etc.). As for Vcore your max should either be whatever your cooling setup can handle or 1.55V. AS for the CPU/NB, if you leave it at or around 2000MHz, 1.15 - 1.2V should be fine, but for the sake of heat I wouldn't pass 1.3V, even when trying to squeeze out maximum clocks. Possibly the most important thing to play around with is the LLC. In my experience with the Sabertooth, it has never helped, so I leave it at "Standard." You have to experiment to see at what level it actually helps you in overclocking, because it may just tack on voltage that you don't need. I don't recommend ever using the highest setting of LLC though, even if you find that LLC is a good thing on your board.

If you have anymore questions please PM me, as I don't want to flood this thread with info that's already in a lot of overclocking guides.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> Okay, You always want to start by disabling Turbo, C1E, Cool n' Quiet, and all spread spectrums.
> 
> As for current capability on an overbuilt board like the Sabertooth I think it's fine to leave at 100%. The only setting I would leave at auto is voltage frequency. Various voltages other than Vcore and CPU/NB should just be set to their default (ex: VDDA - 2.5V, NB 1.8 - 1.8V, etc.). As for Vcore your max should either be whatever your cooling setup can handle or 1.55V. AS for the CPU/NB, if you leave it at or around 2000MHz, 1.15 - 1.2V should be fine, but for the sake of heat I wouldn't pass 1.3V, even when trying to squeeze out maximum clocks. Possibly the most important thing to play around with is the LLC. In my experience with the Sabertooth, it has never helped, so I leave it at "Standard." You have to experiment to see at what level it actually helps you in overclocking, because it may just tack on voltage that you don't need. I don't recommend ever using the highest setting of LLC though, even if you find that LLC is a good thing on your board.
> 
> If you have anymore questions please PM me, as I don't want to flood this thread with info that's already in a lot of overclocking guides.


cpu current capability is just that, it allows the cpu to pull more current if going for 4.7+ghz i would recommend it

cpu nb is fine @ 1.2v depending on what your doing, to get it to 2600-2700 it tends to like 1.2-1.3 but the more volts here adds the most heat .

cpu power phase depends on your oc, for a more aggressive oc turn it up but i recommend cooling the vrms with a fan if you do that.

llc does alot but it is not needed you can compensate for the vdroop


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> cpu nb is fine @ 1.2v depending on what your doing, to get it to 2600-2700 it tends to like 1.2-1.3 but the more volts here adds the most heat .


I thought overclocking the CPU NB only gave performance increases for Phenoms? My CPU NB is at 2200 mhz (which is the stock NB speed) and the voltage for it is set to auto, no temperature issues with that.


----------



## Mega Man

no it does help just cant do it like the phenoms 2600 to 3000 is usually the max


----------



## OzPapaSmurf

I have had the R2.0 version since last year and I find it SO DARN SLOW and in June it finally let me down.
Where the connector from the PSU fits to the MB it kept shorting out and then it also refused to start up.

Unlike you blokes in America, we don't have the luxury of RMA'ing MB's back to ASUS as they don't want
anything to do with warranty issues here in Australia so, I had to wait 6 weeks to get the "new board"
back from them and I found ASUS's service here in Australia WOEFUL.

Next time I need a new MB I will NOT be using ASUS.


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> try changing the battery.


Would anyone happen to know exactly what battery the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 uses? I'm not home and would like to grab it while I'm away so I can just come home and swap. Ive searched and searched and I cant get a model number for a battery for this lol (maybe Im a suckie searcher...) Nowhere in the manual, (found that online) nowhere on the ASUS site...

Thanks


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> Would anyone happen to know exactly what battery the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 uses? I'm not home and would like to grab it while I'm away so I can just come home and swap. Ive searched and searched and I cant get a model number for a battery for this lol (maybe Im a suckie searcher...) Nowhere in the manual, (found that online) nowhere on the ASUS site...
> 
> Thanks


Be warned, I have a Sabertooth R1, but it looks to be just a regular 2032. You can get those at most drug, electronics, or hardware stores (almost anywhere). Be sure you don't buy a cheap off-brand though; I can guarantee it won't last very long.


----------



## By-Tor

My battery says Newsun CR2032


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> Be warned, I have a Sabertooth R1, but it looks to be just a regular 2032. You can get those at most drug, electronics, or hardware stores (almost anywhere). Be sure you don't buy a cheap off-brand though; I can guarantee it won't last very long.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> My battery says Newsun CR2032


And so it is. Just picked up a double pack, Duracell. Let's see how it flies tonight. Thank you gentlemen


----------



## Minotaurtoo

http://valid.canardpc.com/2845135 I'd like to join.. now to go add my name in...


----------



## Darklyric

Nice voltage.^^^ Is that stable:notontopi


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/2845135 I'd like to join.. now to go add my name in...


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> Nice voltage.^^^ Is that stable:notontopi


it would be a heck of a chip for it to be stable.. although good I am sure its not stable


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzPapaSmurf*
> 
> I have had the R2.0 version since last year and I find it SO DARN SLOW and in June it finally let me down.
> Where the connector from the PSU fits to the MB it kept shorting out and then it also refused to start up.
> 
> Unlike you blokes in America, we don't have the luxury of RMA'ing MB's back to ASUS as they don't want
> anything to do with warranty issues here in Australia so, I had to wait 6 weeks to get the "new board"
> back from them and I found ASUS's service here in Australia WOEFUL.
> 
> Next time I need a new MB I will NOT be using ASUS.


that sounds much more like your wires not the mobo tbph
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> Would anyone happen to know exactly what battery the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 uses? I'm not home and would like to grab it while I'm away so I can just come home and swap. Ive searched and searched and I cant get a model number for a battery for this lol (maybe Im a suckie searcher...) Nowhere in the manual, (found that online) nowhere on the ASUS site...
> 
> Thanks


CR2032
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> Be warned, I have a Sabertooth R1, but it looks to be just a regular 2032. You can get those at most drug, electronics, or hardware stores (almost anywhere). Be sure you don't buy a cheap off-brand though; I can guarantee it won't last very long.


+1 all mobos that i know of are cr2032
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/2845135 I'd like to join.. now to go add my name in...


welcome !~


----------



## CannedBullets

So what are the chances of me needing a new CMOS battery sometime down the road for my Gen3?


----------



## Mega Man

depends on the stock asus had on hand

i have seen a 3 month old mobo need one, and i have not needed one for 5+years....


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> depends on the stock asus had on hand
> 
> i have seen a 3 month old mobo need one, and i have not needed one for 5+years....


So basically it could happen on any brand and model of motherboard.


----------



## Mega Man

yep !~ it is not a big deal imo they are just batteries and it costs more to rma then to just buy a new one.

if that is his problem. it may not be. but it sounds to me like it is and i have had several mobos do something similar as him when my battery was dead.... drove me nuts till i figured it out


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yep !~ it is not a big deal imo they are just batteries and it costs more to rma then to just buy a new one.
> 
> if that is his problem. it may not be. but it sounds to me like it is and i have had several mobos do something similar as him when my battery was dead.... drove me nuts till i figured it out


So if my battery dies does that mean I'll have to redo my overclock or could I just use my overclock settings from before the battery died?


----------



## Mega Man

it is like clearing your cmos. really wish mobo companies would let you save profiles on usb....


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it is like clearing your cmos. really wish mobo companies would let you save profiles on usb....


Ugh, so I'd have to redo my overclock and redo 10 hours of P95?


----------



## Mega Man

yea


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea


So I can't just put the stable voltage and multiplier? Because I remember my voltage. That's the only variable I needed to change when I was overclocking.


----------



## Mega Man

i am sure you will be fine
!~
same mobo same chip ect


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i am sure you will be fine
> !~
> same mobo same chip ect


Yeah, but would I have to redo my overclock or just put in my stable voltage?


----------



## Mega Man

i would think just re clock it and you would be fine !~


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> Nice voltage.^^^ Is that stable:notontopi


its not stable... not at all.. was just stable enough to validate and back off...lol.. it takes a tad more than that to keep 5 ghz stable... but temps are awful with the current cooling I have so I don't run over 4.8 for 24/7 and that only takes 1.45 with ultra high llc used.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> its not stable... not at all.. was just stable enough to validate and back off...lol.. it takes a tad more than that to keep 5 ghz stable... but temps are awful with the current cooling I have so I don't run over 4.8 for 24/7 and that only takes 1.45 with ultra high llc used.


Im so glad that you put "with LLC" so many people forget that.


----------



## nX3NTY

I've emailed ASUS about upgrading to new FX 9xxx series and they say it's not supported


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nX3NTY*
> 
> I've emailed ASUS about upgrading to new FX 9xxx series and they say it's not supported


just get water oc to 5Ghz and boom its the same haha


----------



## Darklyric

Not supported pfft its the same dam chip.


----------



## smartdroid

The same chip but with the potential to clock a lot higher....thus improving the odds of frying the board









Seriously I've read somewhere that the FX-9XXX is having issues with the crosshair formula-z.


----------



## Darklyric

Yea I've read the chfz has vrm issues sometimes which is crazy as it is like 1st or 2nd most expensive am3 + board I've seen.


----------



## Darklyric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> its not stable... not at all.. was just stable enough to validate and back off...lol.. it takes a tad more than that to keep 5 ghz stable... but temps are awful with the current cooling I have so I don't run over 4.8 for 24/7 and that only takes 1.45 with ultra high llc used.


Whats your load voltage at 4.8ghz on all 8? mine jumpes from 4.5-6 to like 5.2...according to hwmon<<probably this is why.


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So I can't just put the stable voltage and multiplier? Because I remember my voltage. That's the only variable I needed to change when I was overclocking.


Why not print screen on the pages of the settings you have onto a usb stick, and just re-enter them, at least you will know what they are.


----------



## By-Tor

Anyone else notice this problem?

99% of the time when going into Bios my mouse is frozen and have to unplug it from the board and plug it back in to use it in Bios.

Mouse is a Razer Deathadder..

Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

been there done that, only problem with my razer


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> been there done that, only problem with my razer


Kinda strange eh!!


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> Whats your load voltage at 4.8ghz on all 8? mine jumpes from 4.5-6 to like 5.2...according to hwmon<<probably this is why.


load voltage is around 1.468 sometimes jumps to 1.47 or so.


----------



## Darklyric

Hmm i think its hwmon as ai suite before i uninstalled due to cgminer hating it always read close to what i entered in the bios even under load.

Yea i worded that all wrong lol i ment to say 1.45-6 to 1.53 ish according to hwmon....


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> Hmm i think its hwmon as ai suite before i uninstalled due to cgminer hating it always read close to what i entered in the bios even under load.
> 
> Yea i worded that all wrong lol i ment to say 1.45-6 to 1.53 ish according to hwmon....


likely is... I've noticed that some programs tend to give jumpy readings.. Open hardware monitor does pretty well for me...but some times it'll give bizzar readings... the I have to reset it and it all works fine again.. I would just use asus ai suite...but ohm has a neater look to me... and crams more info in a tighter space.


----------



## CannedBullets

I'd stay away from AI Suite, its just glitchy Asus bloatware.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> I'd stay away from AI Suite, its just glitchy Asus bloatware.


I've not had any trouble with it... maybe just what I'm using it for... the thermal radar is my favorite part.. that helped me get my fans in all the right places. I even use the fan controls to control my fans on the H80 ... I don't use the stock fans btw...too noisy.. I wonder if I'm the only one who does that though... I like the fact that I can set the fans to run at min (40%) until the socket temp hits 40C then start to rev up bit by bit until the socket temp reaches 55C at which point the fans are at full revs. makes for a quieter pc... before anyone panics about me ditching my stock H80 fans.. I don't normally run any high voltages on my cpu.. usually undervolted actually... so 40C socket temps almost never happen unless I'm gaming or something.


----------



## Darklyric

Hey is overclocking the northbridge worth it to gain some CF performance on my 7950s that are oc'd?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Anyone else notice this problem?
> 
> 99% of the time when going into Bios my mouse is frozen and have to unplug it from the board and plug it back in to use it in Bios.
> 
> Mouse is a Razer Deathadder..
> 
> Thanks


Absolutely never. I got a Razer Diamondback 3G.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I've not had any trouble with it... maybe just what I'm using it for... the thermal radar is my favorite part.. that helped me get my fans in all the right places. I even use the fan controls to control my fans on the H80 ... I don't use the stock fans btw...too noisy.. I wonder if I'm the only one who does that though... I like the fact that I can set the fans to run at min (40%) until the socket temp hits 40C then start to rev up bit by bit until the socket temp reaches 55C at which point the fans are at full revs. makes for a quieter pc... before anyone panics about me ditching my stock H80 fans.. I don't normally run any high voltages on my cpu.. usually undervolted actually... so 40C socket temps almost never happen unless I'm gaming or something.


I never had trouble, either.

Well, appart from the updater thingy at Windows start up. But once I uninstalled that, my kitten purred like the happy Saberkitten it was.

Same story for my new Maximus V Gene board. Without the update thing, AI Suite works like a charm.

But that's just my opinion


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> I never had trouble, either.
> 
> Well, appart from the updater thingy at Windows start up. But once I uninstalled that, my kitten purred like the happy Saberkitten it was.
> 
> Same story for my new Maximus V Gene board. Without the update thing, AI Suite works like a charm.
> 
> But that's just my opinion


lol @ the updater... I forgot I got rid of that too... I was all like... "what updater???" I went looking for it.. then remembered... duh.. I got rid of that too...

I really like the bios of the saberkitty and the asus ai suite.. I feel like I'm in complete control of my stuff, like it should be.. like I said, I don't even let the H80 head control the cpu fans.. I used the ai suite to set them how I wanted to... btw.. the fans I put on my H80 are cougars... lol.. seem to be sticking to the "cat" them lol.


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> try changing the battery.


Ok I replaced the battery...the very first boot after the battery change the system once again hung at the motherboard splash screen requiring a hard reboot and then started right up. However that seemed to be it....about 20+ reboots and it never happened again. I thought it was over but then this morning I fire up my rig and it hangs on the mobo splash screen again...this time I decided to wait a bit past the usual 20 or so seconds I typically wait before holding down the power button. About 5 minutes later (clocked) the system boots into windows....

So in summary the new battery seems to have helped in that it went from every other boot attempt to 1 in 20 but it seems like if you wait it out it will ultimately boot anyway (never tried that with the old battery) Weirdest thing. Any ideas?


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> Ok I replaced the battery...the very first boot after the battery change the system once again hung at the motherboard splash screen requiring a hard reboot and then started right up. However that seemed to be it....about 20+ reboots and it never happened again. I thought it was over but then this morning I fire up my rig and it hangs on the mobo splash screen again...this time I decided to wait a bit past the usual 20 or so seconds I typically wait before holding down the power button. About 5 minutes later (clocked) the system boots into windows....
> 
> So in summary the new battery seems to have helped in that it went from every other boot attempt to 1 in 20 but it seems like if you wait it out it will ultimately boot anyway (never tried that with the old battery) Weirdest thing. Any ideas?


Pull the board out... poor water over it, call ASUS up and tell them you don't know what happened but you need to RMA it while drying it off... and just to be sure it's dead, put 110 volts to any two pins of the mobo's power connections till you see smoke... that should land you a nice new board... if your warranty is still good...

*** this is only a joke *** I swear if I didn't put this disclaimer on here someone would take it seriously... I run a small pc shop in my back room and I've seen the results of people taking something like this seriously... one guy called me up complaining about a rattling noise coming from his power supply.. I told him his fan was bad and to bring it in so I could replace it for him... would have been like $20 only... but he didn't want to do that so he asked was there anything he could do to quieten it up... I said sure, stick a paper clip in the back of it to hold the fan still..... he did... seriously did.. he has a new power supply now at a cost of $120..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> Hey is overclocking the northbridge worth it to gain some CF performance on my 7950s that are oc'd?


no.

1 you would need to oc HT
2 in cfx it really does not help unless running 3-4 cards
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> Pull the board out... poor water over it, call ASUS up and tell them you don't know what happened but you need to RMA it while drying it off... and just to be sure it's dead, put 110 volts to any two pins of the mobo's power connections till you see smoke... that should land you a nice new board... if your warranty is still good...
> 
> *** this is only a joke *** I swear if I didn't put this disclaimer on here someone would take it seriously... I run a small pc shop in my back room and I've seen the results of people taking something like this seriously... one guy called me up complaining about a rattling noise coming from his power supply.. I told him his fan was bad and to bring it in so I could replace it for him... would have been like $20 only... but he didn't want to do that so he asked was there anything he could do to quieten it up... I said sure, stick a paper clip in the back of it to hold the fan still..... he did... seriously did.. he has a new power supply now at a cost of $120..


except most people only read the first sentence !~


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> Pull the board out... poor water over it, call ASUS up and tell them you don't know what happened but you need to RMA it while drying it off...


Ok so Im drying off the board with a hairdryer while I wait on hold for an ASUS rep (This guy has the best tutorial for that: *How To Wash Your Motherboard*)

_*But Seriously....*_I guess I'll just leave it alone then? If it becomes too annoying I have the option to RMA it (which I would hate to do) Motherboard RMA (which I have been through) suck as it's pretty much rebuilding your system all over again...bah


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> Ok so Im drying off the board with a hairdryer while I wait on hold for an ASUS rep (This guy has the best tutorial for that: *How To Wash Your Motherboard*)
> 
> _*But Seriously....*_I guess I'll just leave it alone then? If it becomes too annoying I have the option to RMA it (which I would hate to do) Motherboard RMA (which I have been through) suck as it's pretty much rebuilding your system all over again...bah


uh... wow... lol @ the video...


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> uh... wow... lol @ the video...


scrubbing bubbles and jagar lol


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Well looks like the mystery seems to have unravelled (at least in my case). The problem pretty much came back in full swing and worse. Slowly but surely the hangs came back to every other boot again and then progressed to hanging twice for every one boot. So for the hell of it I disabled the mobo splash screen (I pretty much started to hate it because I found my blood pressure rising every time I looked at it...will it hang? Will it boot? Keep watching...) and voila, no hangs. I even upgraded my bios again to the current 1903 and again, no more hangs.

Who knew


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> Well looks like the mystery seems to have unravelled (at least in my case). The problem pretty much came back in full swing and worse. Slowly but surely the hangs came back to every other boot again and then progressed to hanging twice for every one boot. So for the hell of it I disabled the mobo splash screen (I pretty much started to hate it because I found my blood pressure rising every time I looked at it...will it hang? Will it boot? Keep watching...) and voila, no hangs. I even upgraded my bios again to the current 1903 and again, no more hangs.
> 
> Who knew


glad you got it!


----------



## Mega Man

weird sorry we could be more helps


----------



## reaperUK

Hey guys, im just posting this to see what configurations ppl use regarding corsair hydro cpu coolers, I have the h50 but have converted it to a push pull config using 2 Akasa Venom fans but do I have the airflow going into my case or exiting my case??.

At the moment my cpu idles at 30degrees then underload it rises to around (bf3, warthunder coh2 etc) 35-38degs @ stock clocks but I do have turbo set to 4100mhz.

What im trying to say is should I have the fans blowing into my case as the corsair instuctions instruct me to do?


----------



## By-Tor

I'm not using one of the sealed kits, but I do have a 360 (top) and a 240 (bottom) that pull cooler outside air in and blow it into the case and have been running this setup for the past 4+ years and it works great.

http://s747.photobucket.com/user/Bytor_Photo2112/media/20130902_125617_zpsee9bfd29.jpg.html


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaperUK*
> 
> Hey guys, im just posting this to see what configurations ppl use regarding corsair hydro cpu coolers, I have the h50 but have converted it to a push pull config using 2 Akasa Venom fans but do I have the airflow going into my case or exiting my case??.
> 
> At the moment my cpu idles at 30degrees then underload it rises to around (bf3, warthunder coh2 etc) 35-38degs @ stock clocks but I do have turbo set to 4100mhz.
> 
> What im trying to say is should I have the fans blowing into my case as the corsair instuctions instruct me to do?


it depends on your set up others will not be able to answer for you.

is is usually better to have rads as intakes as air outside your case is generally cooler then inside., that being said however it is not a make or break situation.

i have several rads ( all my intakes and exhausts) and i use both intake and exhausts coming out of the CPU goes to exhaust then into my gpus and from there into my intakes ( oversimplified but you get the idea. )

the hottest water goes into the exhausts coldest goes into the intakes

for you you will need to do tests. make sure to keep airflow some what balanced but generally you want slightly positive pressure ( more on the intake then exhaust )


----------



## CannedBullets

Does anyone know if we'll have to redownload motherboard and chipset drivers for 8.1 when it comes out in October?


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Well as usual I spoke too soon. System hung before posting yet again and we're back to every other boot again. As per ASUS tech support prepost hangs are either the cpu is faulty or mobo (after determining hd/mem/power is healthy/sufficient, which it all is as per extensive testing). This sound right? I've heard tons of issues fixed with a new mobo but not much on faulty cpu. I have a 1090T that I'll swap out and test with. Do I have reformat for the 1090T if I'm just testing this boot headache?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> Well as usual I spoke too soon. System hung before posting yet again and we're back to every other boot again. As per ASUS tech support prepost hangs are either the cpu is faulty or mobo (after determining hd/mem/power is healthy/sufficient, which it all is as per extensive testing). This sound right? I've heard tons of issues fixed with a new mobo but not much on faulty cpu. I have a 1090T that I'll swap out and test with. Do I have reformat for the 1090T if I'm just testing this boot headache?


ni just run the windows thing so it updates but most of the time for that it is drivers for the mobo

by that I mean there is no need to reformat.


----------



## Mega Man

i concur


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i concur


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> ni just run the windows thing so it updates but most of the time for that it is drivers for the mobo
> 
> by that I mean there is no need to reformat.


Thanks. It will at least save me some time for this absurd issue. I figured since I have a CPU laying around in a drawer why not swap that out and see if it's the processor...plus way less steps than a motherboard swap plus no waiting. Tired of this dumb issue


----------



## By-Tor

Which of the Sata ports would be the best to plug a SSD into just for windows?

I have it plugged into one of the grey ones and when I start the Samsung Magician it says the AHCI mode is deactivated.

It has 6 Brown and 2 Grey Sata ports..

Thanks

Update: The found the brown ones are where I needed to have it for AHCI to be activated.

Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

you can enable it on either or but it is a different setting in bios


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you can enable it on either or but it is a different setting in bios


I swapped the cable to one of the 6 brown sata ports and it would restart fine, but when shut all the way down on restart I would have to select it in Bios or it wouldn't boot and the updates would not install.
I ended up just re-installing windows and all is fine now.


----------



## reaperUK

hey guys, does anyone have a stable oc setting for there piledriver 8320, ive tried all sorts of settings from here and other forums but all I get is screen freeze after 10 secs of prime95 running, starting to really piss me off!!







Thx in advance guys.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaperUK*
> 
> hey guys, does anyone have a stable oc setting for there piledriver 8320, ive tried all sorts of settings from here and other forums but all I get is screen freeze after 10 secs of prime95 running, starting to really piss me off!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thx in advance guys.


best way is to widdle it up 100mhz at a time


----------



## automaton

Quote:
Originally Posted by *By-Tor* 

Which of the Sata ports would be the best to plug a SSD into just for windows?

I have it plugged into one of the grey ones and when I start the Samsung Magician it says the AHCI mode is deactivated.

It has 6 Brown and 2 Grey Sata ports..

Thanks

Update: The found the brown ones are where I needed to have it for AHCI to be activated.

Thanks


> if its an asus board the 3rd party controller is on non brown my benches were horrid in the non browm go in bios see if board is on 3rd party micron or asmedia


----------



## Darklyric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaperUK*
> 
> hey guys, does anyone have a stable oc setting for there piledriver 8320, ive tried all sorts of settings from here and other forums but all I get is screen freeze after 10 secs of prime95 running, starting to really piss me off!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thx in advance guys.


yea first reset your config in bios set your vcore to 1.450 and cpu multiplier to 22.0 (4.4ghz) and then manually set your ram timing to their manufactures specs.[IMG All of that is under the ai tunertab


Then you should disable your power saving features under advanced tab then cpu options. I'm not at my saberkitty atm but i remember like ce1 and a few other should be disabled for oc testing.


----------



## OzPapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> that sounds much more like your wires not the mobo tbph
> CR2032
> +1 all mobos that i know of are cr2032
> welcome !~


It WAS the board. I had checked the PSU on 4 other machines and also checked it with my PSU tester.
I finally got the board back and it had a different serial number, I so get sick of this we repair these boards. (It was a new one)

It's going like a dream now and just hope that this doesn't happen again.


----------



## Yotabeast505

I have my FX8350 running at 4.8Ghz stable with prime95 max cpu temp 58C and max core is 49C.
Im running the cpu V at 1.43750V and the CPU/NB at 1.3875V DRAM at 1.575 OCing my 1600 Gskill ram to 1866.
DIGI on ultra high and 130% and on cpu on Exteme at 130% all with a corsair H100i no issues yet! only thing is im looking at the AI tuner and it says my Vcore 1 is at 64C under load.... how hot can this thing get? thats just with prime95


----------



## Mega Man

well i am glad you got it taken care of but still sounds like a wire issue. if the connector is not making good contact and it is causing over amping or what you call a "short"

a short is one of 2 things
1 where one of the hot wires connects to ground
2 a wire is damaged in the insulation and no longer has continuity

the problem you described sounded like the psu was not making good contact. could of just been the fact that your are from Australia and i am in the usa, and something is just lost in translation
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yotabeast505*
> 
> I have my FX8350 running at 4.8Ghz stable with prime95 max cpu temp 58C and max core is 49C.
> Im running the cpu V at 1.43750V and the CPU/NB at 1.3875V DRAM at 1.575 OCing my 1600 Gskill ram to 1866.
> DIGI on ultra high and 130% and on cpu on Exteme at 130% all with a corsair H100i no issues yet! only thing is im looking at the AI tuner and it says my Vcore 1 is at 64C under load.... how hot can this thing get? thats just with prime95


i would recommend lowing your cpu/nb as that voltage is usually a bit high most can hit 2600 @ 1.2~1.3v also i would recommend against using extreme llc

but i am glad you are happy enjoy the board and chip i love mine


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Sabertooth R2.0 990fx has now been set for allowing the 9xxx series chips

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R20/#support_Support_CPU_FX-9590(FD9590FHW8KHK, 4.7GHz, 8C, L3:8M, 220W,rev.C0,AM3+)


----------



## Darklyric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Sabertooth R2.0 990fx has now been set for allowing the 9xxx series chips
> 
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R20/#support_Support_CPU_FX-9590(FD9590FHW8KHK, 4.7GHz, 8C, L3:8M, 220W,rev.C0,AM3+)










ahh refreshing to know asus is continuing preemptive support for this board. Honestly the best board i've ever had period. Just reseated my cooler and have a stable 52c priming 8350 at 4.8ghz with 100f+ outside and 73f inside


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ahh refreshing to know asus is continuing preemptive support for this board. Honestly the best board i've ever had period. Just reseated my cooler and have a stable 52c priming 8350 at 4.8ghz with 100f+ outside and 73f inside


I wouldnt call it preemptive as the chips have been out but yeah good board im about the same for Ambient temps

only limiting factor is the 1.7v max for cpu


----------



## wolfwalker

Question, will the chassis fan headers control 3pin fans via the bios/cool N quiet or whatever it's called without the Asus software in windows?
I assume they will with 4pin PWM, but is using a 3pin fan with voltage control just manual?


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> Question, will the chassis fan headers control 3pin fans via the bios/cool N quiet or whatever it's called without the Asus software in windows?
> I assume they will with 4pin PWM, but is using a 3pin fan with voltage control just manual?


From the experience I had with my Sabertooth, I'd say yes.

I was able to control 3-pin fans on the 4-pin chasis headers.

I did some research while I still had the board, and this led me to believe the chasis headers use "digital PWM".

Digital PWM sends out pulses of 12V (or maybe 7V, because the NB multiframe I tried on it ran sub 700ish rpm, while it was rated 1000-2000 rpm) -- the more pulses, the faster the fan spins. Thus circumventing the need for the 4th pin.

True PWM (the CPU headers), the analogue version: it uses a steady 12V feed and control pulses allong the 4th pin.

I used the Asus software to control my fans, but seeing the way the headers work, I don't think it matters which software you use, like Speedfan or such.

EDIT: from UEFI (bios) should work too, I'd think.


----------



## wolfwalker

Well I'm hoping for the best, I ordered one today.


----------



## Nobsod35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> Well I'm hoping for the best, I ordered one today.


Been Highly Impressed, Have done some small OCing but not much. In all great strong Mobo, the weight of the box was impressive.


----------



## darkelixa

My Asus sabertooth 990fx rv2 and amd 8350 arrive tommorow







Is it needed to flash the bios to the newest version or just use the one that comes on the board?? Flashing a mainboard can be dangerous on asus becuase of the single bios chip?


----------



## Darklyric

Depends on what bios is on the board but if you don't have any issues then don't flash. To get my aisuite working I had to flash to 1704 or w/e it is but besides that 1201 was stable and so is 1700. One the Asus website they have a description of what the bug fix is usually.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> My Asus sabertooth 990fx rv2 and amd 8350 arrive tommorow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it needed to flash the bios to the newest version or just use the one that comes on the board?? Flashing a mainboard can be dangerous on asus becuase of the single bios chip?


my r2 came with the very stock bios so most likely will have to flash


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> My Asus sabertooth 990fx rv2 and amd 8350 arrive tommorow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it needed to flash the bios to the newest version or just use the one that comes on the board?? Flashing a mainboard can be dangerous on asus becuase of the single bios chip?


not really that is whats nice about usb bios flashback glad to have you aboard !~ let us know if oyu have any questions.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> Depends on what bios is on the board but if you don't have any issues then don't flash. To get my aisuite working I had to flash to 1704 or w/e it is but besides that 1201 was stable and so is 1700. One the Asus website they have a description of what the bug fix is usually.


hahahahaha i flash ever new bios


----------



## wolfwalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> Well I'm hoping for the best, I ordered one today.


In and running, my case fans are quite! 

Anyone else notice the pipe between the board heatsinks is kinda squished? Hope that's normal.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 4


----------



## reaperUK

cpuid.png 108k .png file


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> In and running, my case fans are quite!
> 
> Anyone else notice the pipe between the board heatsinks is kinda squished? Hope that's normal.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 4


Glad you like it! The Saberkitten R1 I owned was one of the best boards I've ever had.

Ah well, here's hoping AMD will get their act together (well, mainly their memory controller) and give Intel some competition again. That would be ggood for everyone


----------



## wolfwalker

They seem to have a very capable hardware monitoring chip on this thing, I approve.
I wasn't able to pull data from all of them with LM-Sensors but I got enough to keep an eye on things.
Tons in Windows with the Asus software, neat stuff. Haven't done any fine tuning other than ram
timings but all has been well working today.

Anyone else noticed the squished heatpipe? Not a big deal I guess but less than elegant.
It's hard to see..

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/819/71pj.jpg/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> They seem to have a very capable hardware monitoring chip on this thing, I approve.
> I wasn't able to pull data from all of them with LM-Sensors but I got enough to keep an eye on things.
> Tons in Windows with the Asus software, neat stuff. Haven't done any fine tuning other than ram
> timings but all has been well working today.
> 
> Anyone else noticed the squished heatpipe? Not a big deal I guess but less than elegant.
> It's hard to see..
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/819/71pj.jpg/
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


it is fine.
get rid of ai suite it is buggy use hwinfo


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I use AI suite to setup fan controls... it has more options than the bios does... so it has its uses despite the bugs... and last I checked the thermal radar shows more sensors than hwinfo... just my


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I use AI suite to setup fan controls... it has more options than the bios does... so it has its uses despite the bugs... and last I checked the thermal radar shows more sensors than hwinfo... just my


thermal radar was buggy andinnaccurate for me


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I've heard for some it is... but all values that I can confirm using other software are accurate.... well if I have another monitoring software open it will cause random wild readings...but only for a split second
guess it all depends on how you hold your nose lol.. but its proven to be invaluable to me in maping out where to put internal fans to keep critical components cool... I don't use it like I did when I was still building this rig, but then I don't have any need to really, unless something fails or gets clogged with dust (vry unlikely as I clean it monthly) then I have no heat issues... I do have background monitoring going on just in case though...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I use AI suite to setup fan controls... it has more options than the bios does... so it has its uses despite the bugs... and last I checked the thermal radar shows more sensors than hwinfo... just my


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> thermal radar was buggy andinnaccurate for me


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I've heard for some it is... but all values that I can confirm using other software are accurate.... well if I have another monitoring software open it will cause random wild readings...but only for a split second
> guess it all depends on how you hold your nose lol.. but its proven to be invaluable to me in maping out where to put internal fans to keep critical components cool... I don't use it like I did when I was still building this rig, but then I don't have any need to really, unless something fails or gets clogged with dust (vry unlikely as I clean it monthly) then I have no heat issues... I do have background monitoring going on just in case though...


get rid of it... use speed fan or any othe rfan controling software that is better and hwinfo you will thank me ... aisuite= problems


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I haven't had any problems yet... what problems are you referring to specifically? I don't doubt that you and others have problems and I may be one in a million that don't... just wondering what problems you have... oh and once I set the fans where I want them... they stay that way.. even when ai isn't running so that's not an issue anymore.. I don't actually use ai suite regularly.. just have used it to setup my fan profile and watch for hot spots when I was first putting this rig together...


----------



## wolfwalker

I'm not really into busy addon software but the AI stuff for temps seems to work OK, was just gaming and watching it work a bit ago, no obvious problems but I'm more inclined to use SpeedFan if anything. HWINFO see's the bunch of temp sensors on the board but nothing else has short of the AI stuff so far.


----------



## Mega Man

just wait ... it will


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> just wait ... it will


I loved the 2.9v on nb volts with -123 for the temp


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I found the source for those kind of readings on mine the first day I had this machine running... for me the cause of wild readings like that was simply using another hardware monitoring program at the same time as AI suite... don't know if it was the same for you though..... That wasn't really a "problem" though as it only lasted a second or two anyway, only a minor distraction... what I would consider a "problem" is if I tell it to set x value at 1.3 and instead it set it at 2.3 causing damage...that would be a problem.

@ megaman... I am indeed curious as to what troubles it has caused... Sating "it will" is not a viable answer, please elaborate. I feel at this point I should also remind all present that my active use of the software ended a significant time ago and now only the changes I put in place using it are present as it runs blissfully in the background... and no I don't get any wild warnings out of it.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I found the source for those kind of readings on mine the first day I had this machine running... for me the cause of wild readings like that was simply using another hardware monitoring program at the same time as AI suite... don't know if it was the same for you though..... That wasn't really a "problem" though as it only lasted a second or two anyway, only a minor distraction... what I would consider a "problem" is if I tell it to set x value at 1.3 and instead it set it at 2.3 causing damage...that would be a problem.
> 
> @ megaman... I am indeed curious as to what troubles it has caused... Sating "it will" is not a viable answer, please elaborate. I feel at this point I should also remind all present that my active use of the software ended a significant time ago and now only the changes I put in place using it are present as it runs blissfully in the background... and no I don't get any wild warnings out of it.


my issues caused thecomputer to shudown or start for safety because of the voltage readings

slowed my pc way down when booting. Going from 17 sec boots to over 1 min


----------



## Minotaurtoo

hmm... haven't had any of those yet... thanks for the info. I even googled AI suite problems and all I found was issues with wild readings.. nothing about any real issues... I'll likely take it off my auto load list then since I don't actively use it now anyway...


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> hmm... haven't had any of those yet... thanks for the info. I even googled AI suite problems and all I found was issues with wild readings.. nothing about any real issues... I'll likely take it off my auto load list then since I don't actively use it now anyway...


yeah they tried but I just doesnt feel like they put any attempt in the program its like they just shot it out cause they needed another feature/gimmick


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> my issues caused thecomputer to shudown or start for safety because of the voltage readings
> 
> slowed my pc way down when booting. Going from 17 sec boots to over 1 min


this there have been several reports of it just shutting down fans and destroying cpus/gpus because the hs fans are off if you dont call that serious ... i dont know what is


----------



## Minotaurtoo

question for you... speedfan, can you use it to set your case fans to react to a specific temperature sensor? particularly the cpu socket temp is my concern. Reason being, I abandoned the corsair H80's native fan controller in favor of the fan controller on board the motherboard due to the fact that there was no one option on the H80's controller that allowed me full range of the fans ability so that I could have silent operation when no heavy load is present, but ramp up to 100% fan speed when heavy load caused temps to rise... atm my fans run at min speed @ 35C socket temp and reach full speed at 55C socket temp... btw I'm not using stock H80 fans either...they were seriously too loud.

@ megaman.... thanks for adding the details I was looking for... I haven't been able to find any cases such as that.. but the I didn't spend much time googling the issue.. also fans don't seem to care if ai suite is running or not once I set them it stays at those settings till I open it and change it... even in bios screen they act accordingly.


----------



## Mega Man

i dont use it i have an aquaero incoming that i will be using, otherwise i just use them at 100 %


----------



## Minotaurtoo

yeah, I went in bios and set them @ 100% not as noisy as I expected really... cougar fans are quieter than I thought.. I can live with that better than the concern of them just turning off when I'm not here.. Thank you again for your details... I apologize for being a bit demanding, however I did like what the software did do and was not going to uninstall it completely unless some destructive failure was present...drat it all though, I did like those completely silent fans when temps were low.


----------



## wolfwalker

Question, is pcie-1 prone to being warm, graphics card maybe? It's in that top slot. Antec 1100 with good airflow.
This is at idle obviously, just stuck out since it's warmer than anything else just sitting around doing nothing.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> Question, is pcie-1 prone to being warm, graphics card maybe? It's in that top slot. Antec 1100 with good airflow.
> This is at idle obviously, just stuck out since it's warmer than anything else just sitting around doing nothing.


yeah that would be because of the gpu but 30c isnt anything to be alarmed about


----------



## Minotaurtoo

must be in a chilly room lol.. my ambient temps in the room are nearly as high as some of his lower temps. ambient temp in my room now is 24C lol.. my socket temp is 34C atm... and ambient in case temps are 27atm...


----------



## wolfwalker

Central coast CA, it's almost never over 70 here by the bay. It's overclockers country









Nice as it is I basically can't stress test the cooling unless I take a hairdrier and point it at the case.
And I've considered it.
If I have the wood stove cranking for a few hours I can get it to 80F or so ambient
but that's pretty rare.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> Central coast CA, it's almost never over 70 here by the bay. It's overclockers country
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice as it is I basically can't stress test the cooling unless I take a hairdrier and point it at the case.
> And I've considered it.
> If I have the wood stove cranking for a few hours I can get it to 80F or so ambient
> but that's pretty rare.


oh I wish I lived there lol.. here in the summer it hits 100F easy.. AC is a must
then as if nature has a cruel sense of humor it will turn freezing cold hitting lower teens commonly in Jan.


----------



## wolfwalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> oh I wish I lived there lol.. here in the summer it hits 100F easy.. AC is a must
> then as if nature has a cruel sense of humor it will turn freezing cold hitting lower teens commonly in Jan.


I lived on the middle of the east coast for years, know all about hot and cold.
The downside here, excepting the economy laws and politics, is a lot of dust.

Got my Cougars in for the 620 rad, nice fans but the PWM noise at some RPM's is intolerable unfortunately.


----------



## Mega Man

and you would have cold temps and triple electric bill will lots of blackouts


----------



## wolfwalker

So, a quick test says the CPU PWM fan header cannot regulate a 3pin fan. So I can't just cut the PWM wire on the noisy low speed Cougars.
Which is a shame, nice fan otherwise.

Also looks like the CPU OPT PWM header is fixed speed only with a 3pin, which is fine since my AIW water cooler dealy pump is
plugged in there and I don't want to have it at other than 100%

I could 3pin the Cougar into one of the chassis fan headers and put one of my quieter fans on the CPU header
and it would work, but I think I'll just suck it up and buy yet another pair of PWM fans for the radiator and hope
my wife don't see the bank statement this month.

If I'm missing anything someone tell me.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> So, a quick test says the CPU PWM fan header cannot regulate a 3pin fan. So I can't just cut the PWM wire on the noisy low speed Cougars.
> Which is a shame, nice fan otherwise.
> 
> Also looks like the CPU OPT PWM header is fixed speed only with a 3pin, which is fine since my AIW water cooler dealy pump is
> plugged in there and I don't want to have it at other than 100%
> 
> I could 3pin the Cougar into one of the chassis fan headers and put one of my quieter fans on the CPU header
> and it would work, but I think I'll just suck it up and buy yet another pair of PWM fans for the radiator and hope
> my wife don't see the bank statement this month.
> 
> If I'm missing anything someone tell me.


Sure, just plug the 3-pin into any chassis fan header, they will regulate the speed, even the 4-pin chassis headers.

I did that with the WC set-up I had on my Sabertooth: 2 Bitfenix pro led fans on a XSPC EX240 radiator.
Chassis fan speed went up as the cpu got hotter. Just get the right settings and you're good to go.

If you run out of fan headers for your fans, you might wanna get a fan controller.

If you dont have room up front, get a cheap 3.5" Scythe controller and stick it in a 3.5"bay inside if you have one left.

Good luck,

EDIT: or, alternatively: if you have some 12v molex-to-fan adapters, ghetto mod them into 5v adapters, if your case fans have a low start-up voltage.
I run 2 Noiseblocker Multiframe 120mm fans on such a modded 12v adapter and a splitter in my HTPC.
You simply do this by cutting the two diagonal bits off your molex plug so you can plug it in the other way arround, in the 5v line.


----------



## Raephen

I'm not paying too much attention since I swapped my Saberkitten for a Maximus V Gene, but really?

Is the general consensus AI Suite is crap?

Hmm... I've never had any problems with it, and it gave me better readings than some other software on my Saberkitten. Especially fan speeds. They were always spot on, while HWMonitor and HWInfo had reading ranging from 0 to 65k+.

The only false readings I recall were about voltages - mostly on the 3.3v line - but they were always to way of to considere realistic and for only a few seconds.

To be sure, I never used the AI Suite for more than fan control, monitoring and the one or two bios updates I did, so I will have to concede: maybe if you run the more invasive applications like the Tune Up (or whatever the in-OS clocking tool is called) you might run a risk in bricking your system.

I've had no complaints about the AI Suite II - appart from the updater, which was solved by uninstalling that - and unless anyone would care to give me direct links to instances that show were the software suite fried a computer, I'll let the AI Suite II run on my Asus Maximus V Gene system, hapily controlling my fans without a care in the world.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> I'm not paying too much attention since I swapped my Saberkitten for a Maximus V Gene, but really?
> 
> Is the general consensus AI Suite is crap?
> 
> Hmm... I've never had any problems with it, and it gave me better readings than some other software on my Saberkitten. Especially fan speeds. They were always spot on, while HWMonitor and HWInfo had reading ranging from 0 to 65k+.
> 
> The only false readings I recall were about voltages - mostly on the 3.3v line - but they were always to way of to considere realistic and for only a few seconds.
> 
> To be sure, I never used the AI Suite for more than fan control, monitoring and the one or two bios updates I did, so I will have to concede: maybe if you run the more invasive applications like the Tune Up (or whatever the in-OS clocking tool is called) you might run a risk in bricking your system.
> 
> I've had no complaints about the AI Suite II - appart from the updater, which was solved by uninstalling that - and unless anyone would care to give me direct links to instances that show were the software suite fried a computer, I'll let the AI Suite II run on my Asus Maximus V Gene system, hapily controlling my fans without a care in the world.


mine were personal experiences


----------



## Minotaurtoo

one post by mega man stated that it stoped fans in one instance allowing a severe overheat, thus destroying system... never had that happen myself thankfully... but nevertheless I think I'll just not take my chances... my fans are super quiet...actually the power supplys 140mm fan is louder than any other fan I have so I'll just deal with them being @ 100% can't hear them over any sound hardly at all... only when its whisper quiet in here can I hear them


----------



## Mega Man

several posts actually


----------



## Minotaurtoo

oh and if anyone wants a really quiet fan I recommend these: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7867794&CatId=802

unbelievably quiet even at 100%... and I like the blue lights lol... all this time I've been limiting them to keep noise down and didn't really need to.


----------



## wolfwalker

While I don't know of any cases of the Asrock software turning off fans, ya'll gents haven't seen bad software till you've run that.
I had better stuff on NT4 fifteen years ago...

On a brighter note, sorta, I spent the afternoon playing with some mild overclocking on my 1090T and trying to wrap my head around the
abundance of bios settings on this thing. I read about the voltage offset, but the explination I got sounds like what I've already had before,
being able to have the idle voltage drop and the load voltage be raised over stock. I set mine to manual and while it did show in cpu-z
what I set it to more or less, it never dropped back at idle. It does with it in the offset mode. Weather this is from some other setting I have
unknowlingly turned on or off I don't know, but it's odd and I assume I'm lacking some understanding.

I ended up at 17x229 with a 1.284 idle and 1.452 load, [email protected] U-High and a +.05 core voltage setting.
I set the VRM to Optomized and a few other things that seemed like a good idea.
43C core and 49C-CPU terminal after an hour of Prime95 and it didn't blow up so all seems well.
Core#6 always craps out first on Prime95 and was doing so with either more buss speed or the multiplier
up any further. I bumped the voltage offset up another couple notches to .06-something and it didn't seem
to help so I gave it up for now. I'm still a little fuzzy on this offset business, I don't see that it does anything I haven't
accomplished previously with just setting a manual voltage, other than be a little confusing.
I ran this chip on my last board @4ghz with a 1.45v that dropped to 1.2-something at idle with no trouble.


----------



## Raephen

The option that drops the Vcore when idle is Cool 'n Quiet (CnQ), which I'd advise you only use when you've got a stable OC.

LLC - Load Line Calibration - is just a fancy name of giving the cpu more juice whilst under load. Good idea to set to high or ultra for a stable OC.

----

On the subject of AI Suite: I must have missed those posts. I'll consider myself lucky, then, to never have had an issue with it.


----------



## wolfwalker

I ended up with it on High or Ultra High, and I always have CoolNQuiet enabled, I like thing, well, cool and quiet...

All seems well whatever the case, I think I'm going to drop the Kuhler 620 for a giant Noctua air cooler due mostly to paranoia, I don't
anticipate any temp problems..


----------



## nX3NTY

I asked ASUS for individual core control instead of modules, and what did they say? This is related to AMD and I need to ask them. Previously I asked is to update the BIOS CPU microcode because it is outdated and what did they say? RMA the board. Seems like this is the last time I ever use ASUS product, their customer support is idiotic and dumb.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nX3NTY*
> 
> I asked ASUS for individual core control instead of modules, and what did they say? This is related to AMD and I need to ask them. Previously I asked is to update the BIOS CPU microcode because it is outdated and what did they say? RMA the board. Seems like this is the last time I ever use ASUS product, their customer support is idiotic and dumb.


yeah but look at the majority of people buy asus because a friend said so.. or got it cause the buy it top end for just a strong motherboard but dont oc... then you have people buying stuff cause they are learning to build a computer...

that is their support base is for.. could they be better? Yes but everything else is rock solid..


----------



## OzPapaSmurf

At least you can RMA a board back to them. In Australia they WON'T deal direct with the customer and they WON'T give any decent support.
The board I am using had a power problem and it took 5+ weeks to get it back.

My VERY last Asus board.


----------



## darkelixa

Hello,

I now own an amd 8350 and an asus sabertooth 990fx rv2. With my boot up with my 840 ssd it takes about 27 seconds to boot up where as on my i3 it takes about 12. Is it normal for amd and sabertooth to have slow boot times? Its all enabled as ACHI


----------



## AstralReaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I now own an amd 8350 and an asus sabertooth 990fx rv2. With my boot up with my 840 ssd it takes about 27 seconds to boot up where as on my i3 it takes about 12. Is it normal for amd and sabertooth to have slow boot times? Its all enabled as ACHI


Yea the sabertooth is a bit slow in the post department. My GEN 1 takes about a 35secs to a min to get the the login screen on a 840 pro 128gig with ACHI.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralReaper*
> 
> Yea the sabertooth is a bit slow in the post department. My GEN 1 takes about a 35secs to a min to get the the login screen on a 840 pro 128gig with ACHI.


Sadly this is the truth. Still love my board though.


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Sadly this is the truth. Still love my board though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralReaper*
> 
> Yea the sabertooth is a bit slow in the post department. My GEN 1 takes about a 35secs to a min to get the the login screen on a 840 pro 128gig with ACHI.


Wow really? Maybe that's a GEN1 thing. I have an R2.0 and it takes all of 7-10 seconds or so on a Samsung 840 series 512GB before I hit the windows logo. Also there are settings in the bios for fast boot, options to limit USB power up to keyboard and mouse only and the rest power on when windows loads. 35 seconds to a minute seems like an unusually long time


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralReaper*
> 
> Yea the sabertooth is a bit slow in the post department. My GEN 1 takes about a 35secs to a min to get the the login screen on a 840 pro 128gig with ACHI.


Now that I think about it, do you have your 3rd party sata enabled? It slows down post quite a bit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> Wow really? Maybe that's a GEN1 thing. I have an R2.0 and it takes all of 7-10 seconds or so on a Samsung 840 series 512GB before I hit the windows logo. Also there are settings in the bios for fast boot, options to limit USB power up to keyboard and mouse only and the rest power on when windows loads. 35 seconds to a minute seems like an unusually long time


My bad I meant 7-10 seconds.









Time to sleep.


----------



## nX3NTY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzPapaSmurf*
> 
> At least you can RMA a board back to them. In Australia they WON'T deal direct with the customer and they WON'T give any decent support.
> The board I am using had a power problem and it took 5+ weeks to get it back.
> 
> My VERY last Asus board.


Similar issue with me, RMA took a couple of months at least. I'm too used to high end ASUS board to change. But next time I might look elsewhere. I even thinking of selling this for AsRock 990FX Extreme 9 or its Fatal1ty board.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I now own an amd 8350 and an asus sabertooth 990fx rv2. With my boot up with my 840 ssd it takes about 27 seconds to boot up where as on my i3 it takes about 12. Is it normal for amd and sabertooth to have slow boot times? Its all enabled as ACHI


My R1 boots very fast from a single Samsung F3 harddrive, but when I plug second Seagate harddrive boot time took 30 seconds on Sabertooth logo


----------



## Mega Man

uefi to non uefi you can change settings i norder to make it boot only uefi devices at start and that should fix the problem


----------



## AstralReaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> Wow really? Maybe that's a GEN1 thing. I have an R2.0 and it takes all of 7-10 seconds or so on a Samsung 840 series 512GB before I hit the windows logo. Also there are settings in the bios for fast boot, options to limit USB power up to keyboard and mouse only and the rest power on when windows loads. 35 seconds to a minute seems like an unusually long time


I didn't think I had those options...maybe I have been using my board wrong for 3 years.

EDIT: I just rechecked and I could not find any settings for fast boot or suspending usbs. The most I did was clean up my boot order. I already had the boot picture disabled and nogui boot on win7 with POST on displaying for 1 sec. So 35 secs is the fastest I can get it to go.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Now that I think about it, do you have your 3rd party sata enabled? It slows down post quite a bit.
> 
> Time to sleep.


Yep. I have 5 of my 6 internal sata ports being used, and yes the boot SSD is on a native one.


----------



## Darklyric

Stupid question but if you unplug all of the other drives does it boot faster? I have 4 extra drives of various sizes speeds and it always boots in less then 15 seconds on a regular samsung 840 non pro 240gb. My hyper x kingston was hitting like 12 seconds or so too... rev2 non gen 3 board and 17xx w/e bios it is.


----------



## MrThatGuy

I have a R2 and 3rd party SATA disabled. For my drives I have a OCZ Agility 3 for boot and 3x 1 TB drives in RAID 5. It takes me ~1 minute from power on to desktop.


----------



## Darklyric

Maybe try enabling the third party sata Idk I have it enabled. Are you guys using the onboard raid controller?


----------



## Mega Man

again you have to make sure you install it from a uefi device and do all uefi for fast boot


----------



## darkelixa

Installed it via Uefi, turned fast boot on, installed windows 8 instead of 7 and plugged the 24 pin more so into the back of the psu more as it was a little loose one side, <17 second boot from cold now


----------



## Mega Man

i have found on fx cpus cpu/nb and fast mem help a bit as well.... it is not pseudo i can time it


----------



## wolfwalker

Any gotcha's on the current bios as far as RAID goes for the R2 non-gen3?
I'm toying with the idea of RAID again.

Last time was UW scsi on a LSI card a decade ago..


----------



## Mega Man

yes sir
get a raid card or go home


----------



## wolfwalker

Board issue or chipset issue?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 4


----------



## Mega Man

on board raid on any mobo... is failz


----------



## wolfwalker

Ok.. Would it be accurate to say it works as well as on-board raid worked on an old 875P/ICH5 board a few years back?


----------



## Mega Man

i have heard good things about it yes.


----------



## Mega Man

for those talking about faster boot times make a gpt install

http://www.overclock.net/t/1156654/seans-windows-7-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds/0_100


----------



## CannedBullets

Well, I used CCleaner to fix the Registry and clean other things. Hopefully that helps.


----------



## darkelixa

Hello, between my vrm heatsinks on my mainboard, there is a slight different grey colour on the board, is this normal?


----------



## Darklyric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> for those talking about faster boot times make a gpt install
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1156654/seans-windows-7-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds/0_100


+rep awesome guide.


----------



## CannedBullets

Yeah using CCleaner to fix and clean the registry seems to speed up boot times.


----------



## darkelixa

Hello,

Watching my core speed in cpuz i can see it fluctuate from 4.1gh to 1.4gh when reinstalling ff14 a realm reborn, What settings should I change in the Bios? Do you just have to press Asus optimal and leave it at that or manually change alot of the settings?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Hello, between my vrm heatsinks on my mainboard, there is a slight different grey colour on the board, is this normal?


i think you are talking about a thermal pad, yes you need it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Watching my core speed in cpuz i can see it fluctuate from 4.1gh to 1.4gh when reinstalling ff14 a realm reborn, What settings should I change in the Bios? Do you just have to press Asus optimal and leave it at that or manually change alot of the settings?


we really need to know what rig you have ( rigbuilder in upper right hand corner of this page + put it in your sig. )
your cooling and your bios settings ( stock ect )

probably either CnQ or APM

if you are on stock cooler i would recommend leaving them enabled and enabling HPC


----------



## darkelixa

Oh so APM has to be turned off? I think in the bios it is set to auto at the moment, i did a quick build on some of the components in my case. i will update the rest soon


----------



## Mega Man

or hpc on


----------



## darkelixa

Ah ok, so all of them should be set to disabled?


----------



## Mega Man

yes you can , or just leave them as is or turn HPC ON ( not off )


----------



## darkelixa

Ah ok, just trying to get this throttling to stop


----------



## Darklyric

Yea CnQ can do that for me even on this mighty board lol...well with a large oc.

Anyone know what a 8350 and this boards power draw at the wall is roughly oc'd to say 4.8 ghz or 5ghz? Trying to do some rough math here and any help from someone with a killawatt would be sick







.


----------



## darkelixa

If I use the asus optimal or just normal mode, final fantasy a realm reborn still stutters like crazy on my 770 gtx 2gb. Its quite unplayable, is this an amd 8350 problem or a video card problem. The gpu usage in the game doesnt go over 50% while in crysis 3 it sits alot higher close to 90%


----------



## Darklyric

Whats your vram usage, temps, and core/mem clock (for fluctuation) on the 770 and also open task manager and see your core usage please. -while running it of course. My guess is its a driver issue though honestly and a clean instal would probably do you wonders.

Also c3 doesnt lag and plays fine correct (at ulra or close setting)


----------



## darkelixa




----------



## darkelixa

haven benchmark maxes the card out.... uggg


----------



## Darklyric

No i meant in the game you were having trouble with. is that the game in the first bench?


----------



## darkelixa

Yep in the first bench


----------



## CasperGS

Got one for you, Just ended up reloading windows 7, cant get any audio playback, tried every driver option availible including defualt windows driver. Both front panel and rear panel are the same. You can hear noise from speaks when connecting/removing. Even switched to head phones- same issue. Scan system for stuctural integrity. the only think I can come up with is:


----------



## Mega Man

sounds like your sound chip blew. mine did as wel i just need to rma it ( mine detects no input in any of them )


----------



## darkelixa

So ffxiv and benchmarks kept throttling with amd cool n quite disabled, i turned it on and no more throttling and smooth video playback. Is this normal?


----------



## Trinergy

HWMonitor

Hi all, anyone know what TMPIN2 measures in HWMonitor? Is this a broken measurement or HWMonitor not reading something correctly?

AIS II doesn't show any temps past 43C (VCore-2) so I think its a misreading but of what?

TMPIN2 temp is stuck at 128 C


----------



## Mega Man

yes. dont use HW monitor, known to be buggy on AMD. use hwinfo64


----------



## Trinergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes. dont use HW monitor, known to be buggy on AMD. use hwinfo64


All this time I never read it as a different product, duh.


----------



## YakshaXaio

May I join?


----------



## Darklyric

as soon as you tie that hdd down lol


----------



## Nobsod35

Had to share this, my saberkitty has a new home.. The Rosewill Blackhawk Ultra Case..
Here are some outer pics. still has all the same guts that where in my AzzA Hurrican 2000 case which is for sale if anyone is interested.


----------



## Theroty

Hello everyone. Just went from a 970a-UD3 to Sabertooth R 2.0. Having trouble getting my voltages set right. I have it set for 1.368XX with LLC on Ultra high. During IBT AVX the volts stayed at about 1.380 the whole time according to cpuz and ai suite. It failed the last run at 1.368xx on the 9th pass but passed last time when i had it set for 1.375. Odd enough it went from 1.380 to 1.392 during that run.

Any tips with this board?

Temps hit 58 or so with NH-d14. I do not believe they got that high with my other board at the same speed.

Edit: Gonna load defaults and run a stock test to check where the volts go. Turbo and all power save features were off for every run.


----------



## Theroty

Gonna try to mount my nh-d14 again. Temp at 4.0 with LLC on auto, turbo and all power saving off got to 47c on the socket. Unsure of "package" temp because the AI suite doesnt report that.

Voltage ranged anywhere from 1.320 to 1.272 during the test. That is IBT with AVX 10 runs on high.


----------



## Mega Man

you tell us volts but not speed, did you bump your cpu/nb ?

1 uninstall ai suite
2 download hwinfo you will thank me


----------



## Theroty

Ok, sorry for the mixed text earlier.

So far as of now I have LLC at at Ultra with voltage at 1.33125. That is as close to the 1.332 the chip defaults too. Multi is set to 21.5 right now for a speed of 4.3ghz.

NB is at 2200 and HT is at 2600. Dram is set to 1866 with 1.5v. CPU/NB is at 1.250v

Socket temp hit 54 C and Voltage 1 hit 58c. During IBT AVX voltage went up to 1.344 and stay there the whole time.

Gonna go up to multi of 22 and see if it will pass at 4.4 with same settings.


----------



## Mega Man

llc should be able to get ~ high/ultra
cpu/nb is too high for stock speeds should be fine @ 1.1v or 1.11 or 1.15 but your running stock so no need for that volts

the noctura should be good around 4.8ghz

also bump NB ( actual nb NOT CPU/nb ) a notch of volts from stock


----------



## Theroty

I will reduce the cpu/nb voltage. It ran 4.4 without problems at 54 socket but voltage 1 hit 59. Everything else was the same. Going to play around more tomorrow.


----------



## wolfwalker

Possibly dumb question I can't seem to find a firm answer to. Does Linux (mint15) natively support RAID via the SB950 at all?

I conducted a brief experiment the other day involving creation of a RAID1 array with two spare old 160gig drives after setting
the bios to RAID mode obviously. I booted my existing Mint install after failing to be able to boot from a USB stick for some reason,
and while it started up fine, it did not see the array correctly.

Windows 7 blue screen'd, and I'm not especially surprised, but I have drivers and there is support for it, Linux I'm less
sure of.

I do not intend to boot off a RAID volume, just need to read/write to it.

My intention is to create a RAID 1 array, write some data to it, then yank one drive out and put it in another
computer and see if it's readable reliably as a single drive. There seems to be some debate as to weather this
will work dependent on the controller the array was created with. If it works, it's worth making a fakeRAID1, if it does
not, it isn't.

Anyone?


----------



## Theroty

Reduced CPU/NB to 1.10. Failed second run on IBT. Raised to 1.15 passed with 52 socket temp and 57 Voltage 1. Gonna try at 4.5 now.

Sorry, I know enough about Linux to get it up and running and that is about all. Good luck though!


----------



## Nobsod35

Hello all!
My ? is my sabertooth 990FX R2.0 Mobo is not posting, well not beeping the post sound through the speaker, I have tried several different speakers and will get it to beep only if I turn off the PSU and make sure the that everything is powered down, then return power and switch on. The computer seems to be running fine but no post sound from the speaker.

I am also wondering if I have a large enough power supply for the case and system that I am running
here is my systems specs:

Case Rosewill Blackhawk Ultra
2x230mm red led top exhaust fans
2x140mm red led intake front fans
2x140mm interior cooling fans mounted on the HDD cages
1x140mm red led rear exhaust
2x120mm left side panel intake Delta PWM fans with TAC sensor
I forgot to Add the 2x120mm Cooler Master blade master fans on the heatsink
MOBO:
ASUS Sabertooth 990fx R2.0
CPU: AMD FX 8320
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 2x4gb (8gb)
GPU's: 2xEVGA Geforce GTX 660 FTW signature 2 SLI 2 way (both are 6 pin connectors)
DVD/ROM drive single samsung sata
HDD: Western Digital Black Edition 1tb sata III 6.0/sec HDD
keyboad and mouse: Razer Deathstalker key board/Razer death Adder 2013
My PSU: Cooler Master V850 Full modular.

I have tried everything to get it to post and it will beep sometimes and other times it will not. Is there something wrong with my system, not enough power maybe, I have had a few BSOD and they all where Kernel power 41 error. Which from what I have learned is mainly a power issue. So any help on this matter would be great:thumb:
Here are some pics of the exterior and interior of the build.


----------



## Theroty

So I got 4.5 finally. Took 1.362 volts. Idles at 1.356 volts and climbs to 1.368 and moves to 1.380 and vice versa. I moved the CPU/NB back to 1.25 for the moment. I will be moving it back down for the next test to see if i can shave a few degrees off. Socket hit 58c and Voltage 1 hit 63c,

So sometimes it will post and other times it will not?


----------



## Nobsod35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theroty*
> 
> So I got 4.5 finally. Took 1.362 volts. Idles at 1.356 volts and climbs to 1.368 and moves to 1.380 and vice versa. I moved the CPU/NB back to 1.25 for the moment. I will be moving it back down for the next test to see if i can shave a few degrees off. Socket hit 58c and Voltage 1 hit 63c,
> 
> So sometimes it will post and other times it will not?


Yes that is correct. It will post at times then it will not


----------



## Mega Man

should be fine you reset bios yet?

fans usually dont pull more then an amp so you dont really worry about them


----------



## Theroty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nobsod35*
> 
> Yes that is correct. It will post at times then it will not


Yea, you could try to reset the BIOS to optimal defaults and go from there.


----------



## Nobsod35

how does one go by resetting BIOS, I have installed the latest version of bios from Asus. The computer still comes up and windows still starts up with no problems. Just no post beep from the speaker


----------



## Theroty

There is a jumper beside your USB headers on the bottom of the motherboard. It is called CLRTC. Turn off the system and unplug it. Move the jumper to the opposite two pins for about 10 secs and then move it back. Plug it back up and start it up. Go in your bios and everything should be reset to factory defaults.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nobsod35*
> 
> how does one go by resetting BIOS, I have installed the latest version of bios from Asus. The computer still comes up and windows still starts up with no problems. Just no post beep from the speaker


thats all? i never had a post beep


----------



## Nobsod35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theroty*
> 
> There is a jumper beside your USB headers on the bottom of the motherboard. It is called CLRTC. Turn off the system and unplug it. Move the jumper to the opposite two pins for about 10 secs and then move it back. Plug it back up and start it up. Go in your bios and everything should be reset to factory defaults.


Well I did that and it posted the first time I started it back up, I can get it to beep when I shut down all power completely then restart the PSU and push the power on button on the case, then it will beep. I give up maybe it just a bad speaker. I guess all 6 that I tried where bad.


----------



## Nobsod35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> thats all? i never had a post beep


Really, that does not bother you. I my mind it is suppose to do that beep sound to let you know that the board is working properly. I just like things to work the way they should, call me anal. I have tried everything to get it to post beep but nothing seems to work. The computer is working and loads up windows and seems to be working fine. I just notice that when it stops beeping here soon it will bsd's on me and that is not cool. It usually always kernel power 41 issue that causes the BSD


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nobsod35*
> 
> Really, that does not bother you. I my mind it is suppose to do that beep sound to let you know that the board is working properly. I just like things to work the way they should, call me anal. I have tried everything to get it to post beep but nothing seems to work. The computer is working and loads up windows and seems to be working fine. I just notice that when it stops beeping here soon it will bsd's on me and that is not cool. It usually always kernel power 41 issue that causes the BSD


not at all it beeped fine for fans and what not. + i make sure i am stable in prime so i know the board is working properly


----------



## Minotaurtoo

mine only beeps if I change hardware... and only bsod's I ever got were during OC testing.


----------



## Darklyric

Yea mine beeps after HW change and failed overclock. That's about it...


----------



## itomic

Is there any major differences between R2.0 and first revision, especially regarding overclocking ?? I have oportunity tu buy Sabretooth the first one, not R2.0 revision.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> Is there any major differences between R2.0 and first revision, especially regarding overclocking ?? I have oportunity tu buy Sabretooth the first one, not R2.0 revision.


idr is r1 has llc

but big changes are the bios button ( HUGE HELP ) update and direct bios iirc and maybe mem ok. ... i really didnt pay too much attention i will say i would strongly reccomend a r2.0 over 2.10 but if you have r1.0 or can get it cheap both are great

( sorry been a year or 2 since i was comparing and i honestly dont remember )


----------



## Darklyric

whats different from 2.0 to 2.10 or is the 2.10 the gen 3 with pci-e 3.0 plx chip?


----------



## itomic

Will Sabretooth first model recognize my FX 8350 ?? BIOS isnt new, ist 1102 cople months before Vishera launch !!


----------



## Trinergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> Will Sabretooth first model recognize my FX 8350 ??


If you have BIOS 1604 which was the last one

FX-8350(FD8350FRW8KHK,4.0GHz,8C,125W,rev.C0,AM3+) ALL 1604

Sabertooth 990FX CPU Compatibility


----------



## itomic

But, i dont have last one. I know that last one is good, but i have older one !!


----------



## Trinergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> Is there any major differences between R2.0 and first revision, especially regarding overclocking ?? I have oportunity tu buy Sabretooth the first one, not R2.0 revision.


Doesn't seem like major changes to OC'ing other than Memtest Button. Also include USB BIOS update without processor or memory. ASMedia 6Gb/s controller instead of JMicron 3Gb/s controller. Dropped firewire support in new one. I think the first one didn't have UEFI for full Windows 8 Secure Boot compatibility. Also lost the power to unlock cores in Phenom II and Athlon II chips in R2.


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> I think the first one didn't have UEFI for full Windows 8 Secure Boot compatibility.


Actually does have UEFI in lieu of BIOS, I use mine all the time.


----------



## itomic

I have about 20C delta from package temp to CPU temp when runnig P95 !! Isnt that a bit to much ??


----------



## Mega Man

few questions.

1
are you sure you had a good tim seat? if not reseat the cpu cooler

2
do you have a fan on your vrms?

3
take a screen shot of your bios settings you changed


----------



## itomic

Im sure, its not first time i instaled cooer.

No, i dont have fan on VRMs, but i didnt have them on UD5 too.

I will do so later.


----------



## Darklyric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> Also lost the power to unlock cores in Phenom II and Athlon II chips in R2.


nooo!

Also to the guy that was getting the post beep every time, it just started happening to me too but it was a bad laptop hdd that i was using that caused it. It also increased my boot time to like 2 mins even though everything essential was on the ssd and 2 tb seagate. unplugged it and it runs great now again.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> But, i dont have last one. I know that last one is good, but i have older one !!


you should still be able to drop the chip in and flash the bios


----------



## itomic

I have installed my CPU but im now frustrated becouse i have much higher temps compared to UD5 i had !! Its just ridiculous. Im selling it and gonna put my UD5 back.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> I have installed my CPU but im now frustrated becouse i have much higher temps compared to UD5 i had !! Its just ridiculous. Im selling it and gonna put ma UD5 back.


small fan on vrms will drastcally help


----------



## itomic

Today in one of my tests i got up to 76C socket temp wich is way to high !!. UD5 is much colder board but VRMs ar wormer







.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> Today in one of my tests i got up to 76C socket temp wich is way to high !!. UD5 is much colder board but VRMs ar wormer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I dont much believe that... what llc are you using?


----------



## itomic

75% verh high.


----------



## itomic

So when one overclock by FSB, wich voltage besides CPU voltage one should raise ??


----------



## shampoo911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> Today in one of my tests i got up to 76C socket temp wich is way to high !!. UD5 is much colder board but VRMs ar wormer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


76ºC socket temp?? wth... is your 8320 running @ 7.0ghz or what....??


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> So when one overclock by FSB, wich voltage besides CPU voltage one should raise ??


CPU/nb ( nb core)
ht if needed
i am probably missing one but cant think atm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shampoo911*
> 
> 76ºC socket temp?? wth... is your 8320 running @ 7.0ghz or what....??


with an h100 it would not be hard to get that high.~ 4.4-4.7 at most


----------



## itomic

I have H110 wich is better then H100i and when i had UD5 i didnt get nowhere near 76C socket even when i was benchmarking at 5.0Ghz. With Sabertooth i get to 76C with 1.45V @ 4.5Ghz runnig P95 max heat !! I reinstalled cooler so that isnt for sure the issue.


----------



## LiongSky

nice design


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> I have H110 wich is better then H100i and when i had UD5 i didnt get nowhere near 76C socket even when i was benchmarking at 5.0Ghz. With Sabertooth i get to 76C with 1.45V @ 4.5Ghz runnig P95 max heat !! I reinstalled cooler so that isnt for sure the issue.


that would be that the giga board does not have a socket temp that i have found ( rev3 ud7 ) where as the saberkitty has one.....


----------



## itomic

Cores temps are also much higher then they was on UD5. I have IC thermal gun. Whole board under stress test is wormer then UD5. Only VRMs ar colder on Sabertooth.


----------



## Mega Man

thermal ir guns are highly inaccurate
esp on non flat non black surfaces.

i have owned ud7 saberkitty and CVFz and all across the board stuff was ~ same temps

you sure you have nothing different ?

for example
asus cpu vdda does not help but does add more heat


----------



## Pudfark

@ itomic

In the past I ran a Giga 990FX-UD3 rev. 1.1 with and AMD 8350 and warped the board at 4.6 ghz...using a H110 CLC....didn't know about fans on VRMs, then.

Now running a Saberkitty with same 8350 and H110 with fans on both sides of the board, back/front of the VRM's....No cooling problems, though now at 4.4 ghz....which handles every task. My system case is a Antec "LanBoyAir" the H110 is mounted on the top, intake setup, front sides and back of case are running with 7 120mm fans....I put up with a bit of noise, though cooling is no longer an issue.

Mega Man, aka: "Mighty Mouse" gives good straight forward, experienced advice.....I have learned to trust him and I'm better off for doing just that...


----------



## itomic

I realy dont know why i have such high temperatures. Its same core clock and same voltage. I know that temps cant be the same, but delta is to big. I will examine it a bit more and then see what i will do about it.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> So when one overclock by FSB, wich voltage besides CPU voltage one should raise ??


none really maybe cpunb.. depends on frequencies you are runnin..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> @ itomic
> 
> In the past I ran a Giga 990FX-UD3 rev. 1.1 with and AMD 8350 and warped the board at 4.6 ghz...using a H110 CLC....didn't know about fans on VRMs, then.
> 
> Now running a Saberkitty with same 8350 and H110 with fans on both sides of the board, back/front of the VRM's....No cooling problems, though now at 4.4 ghz....which handles every task. My system case is a Antec "LanBoyAir" the H110 is mounted on the top, intake setup, front sides and back of case are running with 7 120mm fans....I put up with a bit of noise, though cooling is no longer an issue.
> 
> Mega Man, aka: "Mighty Mouse" gives good straight forward, experienced advice.....I have learned to trust him and I'm better off for doing just that...


have not seen that show in forever
fun fact did you know mighty mouse was pulled from the U.S. as some people saw the cheese he was eating to be a representation of the drug mushrooms ?

but seriously thanks for your kind words.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> I realy dont know why i have such high temperatures. Its same core clock and same voltage. I know that temps cant be the same, but delta is to big. I will examine it a bit more and then see what i will do about it.


again bios screen shot would help alot !~
did you change cpu/nb? or cpu/nb llc
judging by your ram you have it @ or ~ stock ?

if so 1.15 or w.e. stock is should be more then enough, if on auto asus bios ( some do some dont ) can use 1.4v which will skyrocket your temps quick, high llc is more then enough even for my 2600cpu/nb, if you are using extreme it will also sky rocket your temps


----------



## DeeJaySypki

Hello

For AMD [email protected] 1.3v for cpu/nb with 3000Mhz speed are OK ? or to hight voltage ?

My temp and rig


----------



## Sysop82

Great thread! Probably going to buy this.

I have an older system. I have the ga-790xta-ud4. When I bought this motherboard a few years ago I liked it because it was future proof as one of the few options with the newer USB 3.0 and sata3 starting to come out. To make a long story short, through a lot of research I found out the Marvell controller is crap on here and sure enough I actually get better speeds when I connect my new ssd 840 pro to the sata2 ports and use amd sb instead of sata6 Marvell.

So there is no hope for this board after hours of reinstalls and looking over tons of forum help with people who had this board. I am in need of some I suggestions for a new mobo.

I still have the 965 BE CPU and no money to currently upgrade CPU at this time so I have to stick with AMD board. Will upgrade to maybe fx-8350 CPU in a few months.

Looking for a good overclocking board on air and I would like to actually get some performance from my ssd since my old 790xta is crap for it. It seems like this is the best 990s out today. Is that the consensus?


----------



## Mega Man

this is one of them yes. red has done revies on the big three ( if you will ) ud7 CVFz and sabberkitty, saberkitty inched ahead with 100mhz more

the 990fxa-ud* ( 3,5,or 7 ) are ok, i can tell you the new boards bios suck and glitch but once you learn them they are solid ocers. saberkitty and CVFz are really easy, but have a huge learning curve with all the digi options. but are so easy to oc


----------



## Trinergy

New BIOS for R2.0

Version 2005
Copy Link

Description SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 BIOS 2005
Improve system stability.
File Size
3,18 (MBytes) 2013.10.11 update

http://support.asus.com/Download.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&s=24&m=SABERTOOTH%20990FX%20R2.0&os=36&ft=3&f_name=SABERTOOTH-990FX-R20-ASUS-2005.zip#SABERTOOTH-990FX-R20-ASUS-2005.zip


----------



## Mega Man

nice about to bust out my saberkitty for my htpc too !~


----------



## Jflisk

Anyone know whats in the new 2005 bios. I updated to it already.All stable by the way.Thanks


----------



## AstralReaper

I'm just wondering why they haven't updated the Gen 1 Sabertooths. I haven't had a Bios update for close to a year now. Surely there is something they need to do. Although I do have zero problems. So maybe it is perfect they way it is.


----------



## wolfwalker

Updated mine with no drama. Would be nice to see a changelog though.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

updated mine, no real changes that I noticed... but one program that used to have odd issues no longer has them... would like to know what I'm looking for though.. .if anything besides stability changed


----------



## Dromihetes

Updated myself also the BIOS of Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 to 2005 BIOS and surprise ,it s bugged.

The problem is that the CNQ seems to be broken ,or behaves as being broken.
I am using a daily use overclock of 4,3Ghz on my FX 6300 with the CPU clock management in Windows 7 via AMD Control Panel.
Practically i am usually letting the CPU to float between 3000Mhz and 4300Mhz.
BIOS 1503 does this bouncing automatically almost perfect ,it goes for the load to 4,3Ghz in all occasions.
With this BIOS this does not happen.It stays at 3000Mhz never going up when in load.If i use the same AMD Control Panel and set the clock to a fixed 4,3Ghz runs ok as it should ,but it s always 4,3Ghz.
So the new BIOS (with IDENTICAL settings from the old) has a thing with the 3000Mhz.

So back to the 1503 again ,the best used until now ,none of the other newer ones satisfied me.
Maybe the 2005 it s tweaked for the 220W TDP CPU-s or something.


----------



## wolfwalker

CPU throttling works fine still on mine. FX-8350. I do wish it could drop to 800mhz like my 1090T would instead of 1400.
But it runs cooler all around, so hey.

In the past, above a certain overclock on the 6 core phenoms on some 790 boards, Cool N Quiet or CPU Throttling
or whatever you want to call it would not function. I never found an answer as to why. Same CPU and clocks worked
fine on both the 990FX boards I've had now. YMMV and such.


----------



## Dromihetes

I don t know ,3D Mark runs with a score with older BIOS and with a smaller one with the new one.Intel Burn test also "keeps" it at 3000Mhz.
Maybe it s a CPU particularity.
As nothing looks new i ll revert to the older.

Maybe the 8350 is more fully tested in their lab.
Keep in mind that when CnQ is off in BIOS and not Always on the CPU may use only 2 clocks 1400Mhz and the overclock.Activating APM and HPC as well may remove some steps in between.
In my case i have more steps in between.Some overclocking clocks will show only the max and the minimum also ,like using 4000Mhz.
4,3Ghz is a sweet spot for me ,good performance ,decent power consumption in load and idle.
I am not using Turbo at all.APM ,HPC ,C1 are off.Only CNQ is Always On and C6 is on.


----------



## wolfwalker

I don't know but will be watching.

I didn't even bother overclocking this thing. Other than benchmarks I can't keep more than a couple of cores overly busy, it's just
too fast to bother for me.









My GPU is another story..


----------



## Dromihetes

This ones do behave snappier with higher top clocks ,but indeed most of the time the load is under 50% on any core in almost anything i do with it and it s a six core only.I presume in overclocking the L3 cache gets a boost too thus the snappier sensation.
But i did get the CPU and board to get some juice out of it








The board is better than Gigabytes stuff that i used ,so i am still satisfied.,maybe a better sound implementation would have been interesting having in mind the price.
At least they release BIOS-es ,Gigabyte has forgotten this habit.


----------



## Pholostan

I updated my R2.0 to 2005 and resume from sleep stopped working. Well it works, after a fashion.

1. Put computer to sleep
2. Wake computer, stare at black screen, everything seems to get power, drives, fans etc, but no running OS.
3. Get tired of black screen, turn computer off by holding power button.
4. Turn it on again, same as 2.
5. Turn it off again, unplug the power and all powered USB (mb sucks power from powered USB hubs etc, until all is unplugged goto 2)
6. Press power button a couple of times until green led at bottom of board turns off.
7. Replug everything, order is important, powered USB after PSU.
8. Press power button and viola, computer resumes from *suspend*.
9. RAAAAARRGH!









I went back to 1903, works as expected with the exact same settings in BIOS.


----------



## Dromihetes

Strangely enough in my case ,it does the W7 WEI score just fine,it does go for the max frequency in this test when needed ,but benchmarking some games show a decrease in performance(CPU stays at at 3000Mhz even at 100% load) as well as in the 3 D Mark ,so something is clear wrong in this BIOS.
CPU won t go for the higher frequency even when loaded 100% in most applications except the WEI !
Maybe this is why they say they increased stability with it








Really going back to other BIOS-es.


----------



## Mega Man

i have to ask ... do you have turbo enabled?


----------



## Gereti

hey guy¨s, i have one guestion:
i own now asrock 970 extreme 4, what i'm going to send warranty, and planning to chance it to saberbooth r. 2.0 (not gen 3)

saberbooth paÿs on full price 153€ and gigabyte's ud5 159€, what i would choose if i can chance my motherboard?
my asrock is now on second time going to warranty becose melting

and it asus is better choice, can it run *2 card crossfire and one pci slot audiocard (that is important thing) at same time*
this is possible with gigabyte becose pci slot is last slot on motherboard, but is it pci-e x16 slot (black one) plausible to run x8 speed on crossfire? (using first and second pci-e x16 slot)
i was going to use this black one with second card on future (maby soon, or not)


----------



## Darklyric

depends on if your cards are single/double/triple slot but yea that 1x slot will be hard to reach either way. I assume your 7870 is 2 slot of 3 slots so no youl wont be able to run it in the dedicated 1x slot.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> depends on if your cards are single/double/triple slot but yea that 1x slot will be hard to reach either way. I assume your 7870 is 2 slot of 3 slots so no youl wont be able to run it in the dedicated 1x slot.


well, i have now one 7870 with 3 slot cooler, but i'm going to get reference 6970 on next week, so i was planning to get somewhere from my friend's second 6970 (reference, of cource)
so those are 2 slot card's, so i was going to put first pci-e x16 slot one, second one black pci-e x16 slot, and audiocard (creative f-fi extreme gamer) on pci slot, or should i just try to get that gigabyte and use that...


----------



## Dromihetes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i have to ask ... do you have turbo enabled?


No.

If i enable HPC and APM ,+ enable the Turbo ,plus disable the CNQ, it is doing the load detection properly in other applications.But the CPU goes up and down between the overclocked clock and 1400Mhz.
The strange thing is that under WEI test the CNQ stuff i am using was doing well.Once you pop in some CPU stress though 3000Mhz and no more until forced

As this were the last days of my 90 days of tests with the OS ,the board and CPU being new ,i will reinstall W7 to see if it s not some software issue in the OS.New HDD going in also ,going final.
Strange thing is that i have reverted to 1503 in the W7 installation and it kept doing the same idiotic thing in spite of working before updating to this 2005.

Installed W8 preview few hours ago ,just to see how it behaves ,as well with 1503 to which i reverted and seems to be back in business.
Tomorrow new HDD ,new OS some video card clean up and i may reinstall this BIOS again.

By the way Windows8 .1 preview sucks







.i don t like the interface ,the start menu is still a mess and the performance may be higher in some apps but in others is crappier.W7 still the better.
I ll wait for Windows 9 ,no upgrades here from windows 7,

But still 1503 is the best until now with my CPU..


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> hey guy¨s, i have one guestion:
> i own now asrock 970 extreme 4, what i'm going to send warranty, and planning to chance it to saberbooth r. 2.0 (not gen 3)
> 
> saberbooth paÿs on full price 153€ and gigabyte's ud5 159€, what i would choose if i can chance my motherboard?
> my asrock is now on second time going to warranty becose melting
> 
> and it asus is better choice, can it run *2 card crossfire and one pci slot audiocard (that is important thing) at same time*
> this is possible with gigabyte becose pci slot is last slot on motherboard, but is it pci-e x16 slot (black one) plausible to run x8 speed on crossfire? (using first and second pci-e x16 slot)
> i was going to use this black one with second card on future (maby soon, or not)


When I ran an SLI system on this board I had my audio card in the bottom PCI Express slot.
GPU1 was in the first slot, GPU2 in the third.

System ran beautifully, no issues


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> When I ran an SLI system on this board I had my audio card in the bottom PCI Express slot.
> GPU1 was in the first slot, GPU2 in the third.
> 
> System ran beautifully, no issues


mjeah, but i was thinking to use first and second pci express x16 slot's, and last pci on audio card, i jsut get this audiocard from one stuffbox what i bought and i love that card, it's avesome,
but, i have to be sure how much i can get from my old motherboard if i change it,


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> mjeah, but i was thinking to use first and second pci express x16 slot's, and last pci on audio card, i jsut get this audiocard from one stuffbox what i bought and i love that card, it's avesome,
> but, i have to be sure how much i can get from my old motherboard if i change it,


On the Sabertooth you wont be able to fit the two GPU on first and second. 1st and 3rd (as per the manual) is typically the way you place your GPU's in SLI/Crossfire


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> On the Sabertooth you wont be able to fit the two GPU on first and second. 1st and 3rd (as per the manual) is typically the way you place your GPU's in SLI/Crossfire


okay, so then i have to go with gigabyte ud5,


----------



## goojah

Hi folks, new to the sabertooth club, but not new to ASUS. Had a Crosshair II before going to my Sabertooth R1 about a year ago. Been running a 1090T with 16GB of Ram, and an old MSI 465 GE GPU. I upgraded the ram to some ADATA 2133MHZ sticks this month, along with upgrading to a big ol INWIN Grone case, and I also upgraded the CPU (so I thought) to a 6300 FX. Was going to go for a 8320 or 8350, but thought I would go cheaper and pick up a cheap one down the road. Long story short, the 6300 is not working well and is going in for RMA. The 1090T is going into a build I am doing for a friend, and after a week of gritting my teeth I started 2 days of recklessness or adventure depending on your perspective. It started yesterday with me purchasing a 9370 FX chip (actually for less than you probably think), then this morning at 7am I rode my 2 day old bargain bike through a typhoon (really), and then at about 9am I purchased a Swiftech H320. The money I really didn't want to spend aside the Swiftech was probably the most rational thing I did these last 48 hours. I am not a gamer, I am a video editor and occasional music creator. I went with this chip because I use a highly hacked GH2 camera and though my setup does very well, it gets a bit sticky when adding effects. But just barely. I am hoping that with a nice 5GHZ (dare I dream 5.5?) I can push past the stickiness, and obviously render faster as well. I figure since not allot of people have this chip in this board at the moment I can help by being a bit of a test subject. I will have many questions I am sure, and this is my first venture into water cooling. I did my research though, and that is why I went with swiftech over corsair, and also why I went with the 360mm radiator for this chip on this board. Sorry for the long ass run on paragraph, I will end it now and ask one simple question below.

Here it is.. With the Sabertooth and it's tendancy to have very hot VRM's during higher voltage, would it be possibly better if only given one choice (till my finances recover) to water cool the VRM's, and use very good air cooling on the CPU and everywhere else I can stick a good fan? My case has a fan on the back side of the CPU FYI, and Holds 9 more 120mm or 140mm fans in the main compartment not including the two 92mm fans I have which blow up at the vrm's, cpu and RAM from the position of the top PCI slot above the GPU. My low tech logic on this is that the VCores run hotter than my CPU on my board, and when I cool them there is an immediate decrease in my CPU temp as well.

Thoughts? and thanks !

Oh and BTW I paid 25000 Yen for this which currently equals $253USD


----------



## Jflisk

If your worried about the VRMs pick up a Antec spot cooler. looks good and decent price. I have one in my watercooled set up and keeps it cool. Thanks


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> If your worried about the VRMs pick up a Antec spot cooler. looks good and decent price. I have one in my watercooled set up and keeps it cool. Thanks


id like to see how well it clocks compared to my 8350.. but good deal

as far as those temps some sort of fan helps on the vrms.. after that these boards are beast.. there is a voltage limit of 1.7v for cpu I think 1.45 for cpunb but you most likely will hit a thermal limit before that..

for rendering if you are using well threaded programs you will see a great boost in performance and the drop in times..

I went frim an 1100t @4.1 to my 8350 and was very pleased.. this board has so many options too.. ram tweaking will also help you


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goojah*
> 
> 
> 
> Hi folks, new to the sabertooth club, but not new to ASUS. Had a Crosshair II before going to my Sabertooth R1 about a year ago. Been running a 1090T with 16GB of Ram, and an old MSI 465 GE GPU. I upgraded the ram to some ADATA 2133MHZ sticks this month, along with upgrading to a big ol INWIN Grone case, and I also upgraded the CPU (so I thought) to a 6300 FX. Was going to go for a 8320 or 8350, but thought I would go cheaper and pick up a cheap one down the road. Long story short, the 6300 is not working well and is going in for RMA. The 1090T is going into a build I am doing for a friend, and after a week of gritting my teeth I started 2 days of recklessness or adventure depending on your perspective. It started yesterday with me purchasing a 9370 FX chip (actually for less than you probably think), then this morning at 7am I rode my 2 day old bargain bike through a typhoon (really), and then at about 9am I purchased a Swiftech H320. The money I really didn't want to spend aside the Swiftech was probably the most rational thing I did these last 48 hours. I am not a gamer, I am a video editor and occasional music creator. I went with this chip because I use a highly hacked GH2 camera and though my setup does very well, it gets a bit sticky when adding effects. But just barely. I am hoping that with a nice 5GHZ (dare I dream 5.5?) I can push past the stickiness, and obviously render faster as well. I figure since not allot of people have this chip in this board at the moment I can help by being a bit of a test subject. I will have many questions I am sure, and this is my first venture into water cooling. I did my research though, and that is why I went with swiftech over corsair, and also why I went with the 360mm radiator for this chip on this board. Sorry for the long ass run on paragraph, I will end it now and ask one simple question below.
> 
> Here it is.. With the Sabertooth and it's tendancy to have very hot VRM's during higher voltage, would it be possibly better if only given one choice (till my finances recover) to water cool the VRM's, and use very good air cooling on the CPU and everywhere else I can stick a good fan? My case has a fan on the back side of the CPU FYI, and Holds 9 more 120mm or 140mm fans in the main compartment not including the two 92mm fans I have which blow up at the vrm's, cpu and RAM from the position of the top PCI slot above the GPU. My low tech logic on this is that the VCores run hotter than my CPU on my board, and when I cool them there is an immediate decrease in my CPU temp as well.
> 
> Thoughts? and thanks !
> 
> Oh and BTW I paid 25000 Yen for this which currently equals $253USD


congrats and nice !~

a fan or 2 would work fine ( evern 40mm fans )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> id like to see how well it clocks compared to my 8350.. but good deal
> 
> as far as those temps some sort of fan helps on the vrms.. after that these boards are beast.. there is a voltage limit of 1.7v for cpu I think 1.45 for cpunb but you most likely will hit a thermal limit before that..
> 
> for rendering if you are using well threaded programs you will see a great boost in performance and the drop in times..
> 
> I went frim an 1100t @4.1 to my 8350 and was very pleased.. this board has so many options too.. ram tweaking will also help you


i have definitely gone higher on cpu/nb on my saberkitty fyi


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> congrats and nice !~
> 
> a fan or 2 would work fine ( evern 40mm fans )
> i have definitely gone higher on cpu/nb on my saberkitty fyi


I was guesstimating because I couldn't remember


----------



## goojah

Just got off work, and if I don't fall asleep I will start installing the cooler soon. I work early so my next post may be 48 hours or so. One of the two 92mm fans I have blows directly up and across the upper Vcore area, and I will be moving a high flow 140mm Enermax to the exhaust to direct that air out and ideally away from the rear most radiator fan, but any additional heat will likely be sucked away by the radiator fan. I will probably get some high rpm/cfm 40mm fans later, but I am really well over my budget for this month. I will post a pic of the 92 mm fans later to show what I have going on. They drop the Vcores by a good ammount... The question about watercooling the vrm's was just a curiosity one since I have never read of anyone opting to watercool them instead of the CPU, and really wonder what the outcome would be.

If I have the time and energy I may update in a few hours.


----------



## goojah

OK, have the cooler outside the case running, and will continue to run for a couple hours, or all night if I fall asleep on the couch. I made some videos of the unboxing and a bit of the assembly. Nothing earth shattering, just me mumbling about what is missing from the instructions and showing how I installed the AMD mount. The pump is running nice and quiet, and so far no leaks. At the very least I will mount it in the morning before heading off to work, and then likely install the 9370 when I get home. Truthfully I wish I could just keep the 9370 in the box, since with the water cooler kit versions are out after just a few months, I doubt many sealed 9370's will exist in the near future (I am a part time antique collector so I tend to see things for their future rarity/value). There is something special about an AMD chip in a pretty little box without a cooler.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goojah*
> 
> OK, have the cooler outside the case running, and will continue to run for a couple hours, or all night if I fall asleep on the couch. I made some videos of the unboxing and a bit of the assembly. Nothing earth shattering, just me mumbling about what is missing from the instructions and showing how I installed the AMD mount. The pump is running nice and quiet, and so far no leaks. At the very least I will mount it in the morning before heading off to work, and then likely install the 9370 when I get home. Truthfully I wish I could just keep the 9370 in the box, since with the water cooler kit versions are out after just a few months, I doubt many sealed 9370's will exist in the near future (I am a part time antique collector so I tend to see things for their future rarity/value). There is something special about an AMD chip in a pretty little box without a cooler.


too bad they they didn't come in tins


----------



## goojah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> too bad they they didn't come in tins


How about little acrylic cubes, or better yet little wooden boxes with the amd FX logo burnt in or even better yet "Burnt In" burnt in


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goojah*
> 
> How about little acrylic cubes, or better yet little wooden boxes with the amd FX logo burnt in or even better yet "Burnt In" burnt in


I think that would have been a great promo for amd


----------



## goojah

Yeah, as I was typing it I saw the beauty. Pre burnt in monster FX CPU's capable of 7GHZ.

Speaking of burnt in.... So After a couple hours running the Swiftech I hooked it up to my 1090t as a precaution before taking the 9370 out for a spin. Let me say I am so F'n glad I did. I was documenting the process, and between focusing the camera and manhandling cables and hoses I did not notice that some genius forgot to include the springs on the spring loaded AMD screws. It initially felt tight but when I turned everything on my CPU was idling around 40c, I thought maybe it was just warm in the room and if I gave a little OC the cooler would not budge temps and show its muscle.... Boooooo... After just using the Bios OC tuner and getting back into windows the CPU was at 75C!!! I shut down immediately and after a cool down loaded bios and double checked to make sure it wasn't a program error.. sure enough 75 right before bios crashed. After realizing what had happened I raided the springs from the Intel screws and now the cooler feels like it is welded on. I have been running prime for about 10 minutes at stock settings and the CPU is at 41C... this is with the case open and most my fans not yet reconnected... I am pissed though and praying it didn't warp my board or cause any serious damage.

Side note, when I first got my 1090T I got it well past 5GHZ on air (not running prime) before chickening out and keeping at 4GHZ most it's life.. This plus surviving (so far) 75c = one tough little chip. Definitely Burnt in


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goojah*
> 
> Just got off work, and if I don't fall asleep I will start installing the cooler soon. I work early so my next post may be 48 hours or so. One of the two 92mm fans I have blows directly up and across the upper Vcore area, and I will be moving a high flow 140mm Enermax to the exhaust to direct that air out and ideally away from the rear most radiator fan, but any additional heat will likely be sucked away by the radiator fan. I will probably get some high rpm/cfm 40mm fans later, but I am really well over my budget for this month. I will post a pic of the 92 mm fans later to show what I have going on. They drop the Vcores by a good ammount... The question about watercooling the vrm's was just a curiosity one since I have never read of anyone opting to watercool them instead of the CPU, and really wonder what the outcome would be.
> 
> If I have the time and energy I may update in a few hours.


nah the 92mm is fine if need be. you dont need alot of cfm believe it or not though some ppl watercooled the vrm, but it is a pain since no one will make a block for them..... really stupid if you ask me .... so many ppl own a sabberkitty
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goojah*
> 
> Yeah, as I was typing it I saw the beauty. Pre burnt in monster FX CPU's capable of 7GHZ.
> 
> Speaking of burnt in.... So After a couple hours running the Swiftech I hooked it up to my 1090t as a precaution before taking the 9370 out for a spin. Let me say I am so F'n glad I did. I was documenting the process, and between focusing the camera and manhandling cables and hoses I did not notice that some genius forgot to include the springs on the spring loaded AMD screws. It initially felt tight but when I turned everything on my CPU was idling around 40c, I thought maybe it was just warm in the room and if I gave a little OC the cooler would not budge temps and show its muscle.... Boooooo... After just using the Bios OC tuner and getting back into windows the CPU was at 75C!!! I shut down immediately and after a cool down loaded bios and double checked to make sure it wasn't a program error.. sure enough 75 right before bios crashed. After realizing what had happened I raided the springs from the Intel screws and now the cooler feels like it is welded on. I have been running prime for about 10 minutes at stock settings and the CPU is at 41C... this is with the case open and most my fans not yet reconnected... I am pissed though and praying it didn't warp my board or cause any serious damage.
> 
> Side note, when I first got my 1090T I got it well past 5GHZ on air (not running prime) before chickening out and keeping at 4GHZ most it's life.. This plus surviving (so far) 75c = one tough little chip. Definitely Burnt in


nah you will be fine. just contact bramsli1 on the forums he will get you the parts np their service is best in class period !~


----------



## goojah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> nah you will be fine. just contact bramsli1 on the forums he will get you the parts np their service is best in class period !~


Yeah, I will be contacting him soon. It is still up and running, but their was some damage to the radiator fins along with some corrosion out of the box that bugs me more than the missing hardware. Not knocking the product, just the particular unit I got.


----------



## goojah

OK, mini update. Put the 9370 in late this evening. At default it runs at 4.4.ghz with voltage at 1.53 (I think). After running it for a bit I went back into the bios and turned on OC Tuner, and it upped it to just under 4.8Gghz, with a jump to 1.58v. I briefly tried bringing down the voltage and increasing the speed but it created stability issues.. again this was just a brief attempt, and I would imagine I can at least get the voltage down a bit (maybe). That being said at the default it is a kitten, idling at 30C and running prime blend under 46C, at 4.8/1.58 it is still much tamer than I expected idling at 34C. I ran prime a bit and it got as high as 52C, but I didn't have time to run it more than 10 minutes and it was still steadily climbing. Keeping in mind I have a H320 cooling this chip and some well positioned fans cooling the mobo and vcore, so far I find the heat output claims a bit exaggerated for this chip.

One question. What is the max recommended voltage for this chip? 1.58 seems high to me, but given it's current temps I am open to going a bit higher if it is deemed safe.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Well it will take me a bit to get back to my great ram profiles.. I just flashed BIOS 2005 for my board to see how it goes.. So far so good plugged in numbers and already at 5GHz with no issues

So far it is easier to clock.. and my ram is more stable at higher DRAM dividers

*noticed that it takes a bit more voltage on vDDR for DRAM deviders if going higher clocks
**This is due to LLC not putting as many volts

**LLC doesn't add as much volts on ultra High as it did in older version.. I am also able to go past 1.7v now I think will need to double check though


----------



## goojah

still working on the 9370 OC, I got to about 4.85ghz on just under 1.58V, but got to 4.75ghz on much less. I think it was about 1.525v. I am talking stable or at least stable for a couple hours till I get impatient and try new settings. I have had the chip to just under 5.3ghz at about 1.52V but not stable. All of the above was done with a multi of 15 and raising the FSB into the low 300's. Before I raised the FSB it seemed to be hitting a hard wall with the multiplier around 22 or 23, and so far 15 is the wall where I have it now. I will start ignoring prime and go for general usage stability ideally under 1.58v and see what I can pull off. I suspect 5ghz is going to be a snap, but it may take more V than I am comfortable with. My hope is to find a sweet spot that lets me back down the voltage and get stability in prime eventually. Oh and I have just barely hit 60 on my number 1 Vcore, and still staying under 57 on cpu using primes blend.

side notes

Playing with the NB I have gone as high as 1.45 and as low as 1.18 seemingly having improvements in both directions at times. Tried taking the DRAM down to 1.5 and up to 1.7 but it seems happiest in the 1.6 to 1.65 range.

Just to put it out there I am a self taught overclocker for the most part, and not very well taught. Any advice on other things to play with to try and squeeze a bit more headroom out would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## zzztopzzz

Goojah

Just curious. Are looking at the bottom line as you modify the M/B settings, which is FPS, or are you just involved with obtaining the best GHz values? I'm asking because I've able to obtain 5 GHz and my board seems stable, but most of my games and just about all of benchmarks go south. My sweet spot seems to be about 4.4 GHz- 4.6 GHz. Good luck with your efforts.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I've noticed that 4.6 ghz seems to get me the best fps and best benches for some reason... I run mine at 4.415 for daily use though just because there is no reason to go higher as temps are much nicer... usually in the 30'sC when gaming as opposed to low-mid 40's at 4.6ghz ... just a personal thing, but I don't like temps over 40 core or 50 socket.


----------



## Dromihetes

Reinstalled W7 with the new BIOS and the CnQ worked as supposed ,but found out other glitches.
I think this BIOS is really meant for W8.
Also first time when going from 1503 to the last i have observed that the saved configs would not get deleted so i flashed back and forth until those got cleared out.
Strange problem.
Used fixed stock clocks and voltages all CPU features off to obtain a success in flashing BIOS properly.
Back to 1503 ,the best for my overclocking too.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dromihetes*
> 
> Reinstalled W7 with the new BIOS and the CnQ worked as supposed ,but found out other glitches.
> I think this BIOS is really meant for W8.
> Also first time when going from 1503 to the last i have observed that the saved configs would not get deleted so i flashed back and forth until those got cleared out.
> Strange problem.
> Used fixed stock clocks and voltages all CPU features off to obtain a success in flashing BIOS properly.
> Back to 1503 ,the best for my overclocking too.


yeah im not liking the overclocking on 2005.. cant seem to get high ram speeds stable


----------



## farscaper

So i did my first over clocking, and i would like for you guys to go over my chosen settings. Hopefully everything is its proper setting. So my Current O'c Target is 4.1ghz

My pc spec are,
BIOS 1604
Mobo = 990fx sabertooth rev1 .
Cpu = Fx 8350 @ 4.1ghz
Memory = Gskill ripjaws 4x4 16gb @ 9-9-9-24- 2T
Vid card = diamond Hd7870 2gb double black factory o'c
Psu = thermaltake 850w
Air cooling for cpu = Noctua NH- D14
SSD samsung 120gb , 840 evo

Displayed on Ai tweaker tab

Current cpu speed = 4100mhz
target cpu speed = 4100
current memory frequency = 1600 mhz
current nb frequency = 2200 mhz
current HT link speed = 2200 mhz

Ai over clock tuner = manual
Oc tuner = cancel
cpu ratio = 20.5
amd turbo core technology = disabled
cpu bus frequency = 200
pcie frequency = auto
memory frequency - DDR3- 1600 mhz
cpu/nb frequency = auto
ht link speed = auto
cpu spread spectrum = auto
pcie spread spectrum = auto
epu power saving mode = disabled
Dram timing control = memory at @ 9-9-9-24
Dram command rate = 2t
Dram driving control = left alone.

Digi + Vrm

Cpu load line calibration = auto
cpu/nb calibration = auto
cpu current capability = auto
cpu/nb current capability = auto
cpu power phase control = standard
cpu voltage frequency = auto
vrm spread spectrum = disabled
cpu power duty control = T.probe thermal

Cpu & NB voltage = manual mode

cpu manual voltage, Mobo reads = 1.344v - Human input = 1.343750v
cpu/nb manual voltage, Mobo reads = 1.175v Human input = auto
cpu vdda voltage, Mobo reads = 2.496v Human input = auto
dram voltage Mobo reads = 1.503v , Human input = auto
nb voltage, Mobo reads = 1.103v Human input = auto
nb ht voltage , Mobo reads = 1.200v Human input = auto
nb 1.8v voltage, Mobo reads = 1.800v Human input = auto
db voltage, Mobo reads = 1.100v Human input = auto
vdd pcie, Mobo reads1.100v Human input = auto
vddr , Mobo reads 1.200v Human input = auto

Advance tab
--> cpu config

cool n quiet = always disabled
c1e = disabled
svm = disabled
core 6 state = disabled
hpc mode = disabled
apm master mode = auto


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farscaper*
> 
> So i did my first over clocking, and i would like for you guys to go over my chosen settings. Hopefully everything is its proper setting. So my Current O'c Target is 4.1ghz
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My pc spec are,
> BIOS 1604
> Mobo = 990fx sabertooth rev1 .
> Cpu = Fx 8350 @ 4.1ghz
> Memory = Gskill ripjaws 4x4 16gb @ 9-9-9-24- 2T
> Vid card = diamond Hd7870 2gb double black factory o'c
> Psu = thermaltake 850w
> Air cooling for cpu = Noctua NH- D14
> SSD samsung 120gb , 840 evo
> 
> Displayed on Ai tweaker tab
> 
> Current cpu speed = 4100mhz
> target cpu speed = 4100
> current memory frequency = 1600 mhz
> current nb frequency = 2200 mhz
> current HT link speed = 2200 mhz
> 
> Ai over clock tuner = manual
> Oc tuner = cancel
> cpu ratio = 20.5
> amd turbo core technology = disabled
> cpu bus frequency = 200
> pcie frequency = auto
> memory frequency - DDR3- 1600 mhz
> cpu/nb frequency = auto
> ht link speed = auto
> cpu spread spectrum = auto
> pcie spread spectrum = auto
> epu power saving mode = disabled
> Dram timing control = memory at @ 9-9-9-24
> Dram command rate = 2t
> Dram driving control = left alone.
> 
> Digi + Vrm
> 
> Cpu load line calibration = auto
> cpu/nb calibration = auto
> cpu current capability = auto
> cpu/nb current capability = auto
> cpu power phase control = standard
> cpu voltage frequency = auto
> vrm spread spectrum = disabled
> cpu power duty control = T.probe thermal
> 
> Cpu & NB voltage = manual mode
> 
> cpu manual voltage, Mobo reads = 1.344v - Human input = 1.343750v
> cpu/nb manual voltage, Mobo reads = 1.175v Human input = auto
> cpu vdda voltage, Mobo reads = 2.496v Human input = auto
> dram voltage Mobo reads = 1.503v , Human input = auto
> nb voltage, Mobo reads = 1.103v Human input = auto
> nb ht voltage , Mobo reads = 1.200v Human input = auto
> nb 1.8v voltage, Mobo reads = 1.800v Human input = auto
> db voltage, Mobo reads = 1.100v Human input = auto
> vdd pcie, Mobo reads1.100v Human input = auto
> vddr , Mobo reads 1.200v Human input = auto
> 
> Advance tab
> --> cpu config
> 
> cool n quiet = always disabled
> c1e = disabled
> svm = disabled
> core 6 state = disabled
> hpc mode = disabled
> apm master mode = auto


you know you can just take screens of your bios right ?


----------



## Minotaurtoo

you know that is something i've never done lol... taken tons of screenshots... but never of my bios.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> you know that is something i've never done lol... taken tons of screenshots... but never of my bios.


f12


----------



## goojah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzztopzzz*
> 
> Goojah
> 
> Just curious. Are looking at the bottom line as you modify the M/B settings, which is FPS, or are you just involved with obtaining the best GHz values? I'm asking because I've able to obtain 5 GHz and my board seems stable, but most of my games and just about all of benchmarks go south. My sweet spot seems to be about 4.4 GHz- 4.6 GHz. Good luck with your efforts.


My goal is to achieve the smoothest video editing possible with an AMD setup. It's strange though, although the 9370 and even the 6300 clearly do many things quicker than my 1090t and play back video in my editor more smoothly (1/2 of my goal) another very important aspect is loading and undoing effects, or simply editing and undoing/redoing.. For some reason the 6300 and 9370 stick/lag during the latter actions. I thought originally the 6300 was damaged because of this, but now I suspect it is something I don't understand that allows the 1090t to perform these tasks better. I have a crosshair iv I have been building for a friend and I am about ready to load the editing software and plop in the 9370 to see if the board has some part in this too. Does anyone have a clue what is happening here?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goojah*
> 
> My goal is to achieve the smoothest video editing possible with an AMD setup. It's strange though, although the 9370 and even the 6300 clearly do many things quicker than my 1090t and play back video in my editor more smoothly (1/2 of my goal) another very important aspect is loading and undoing effects, or simply editing and undoing/redoing.. For some reason the 6300 and 9370 stick/lag during the latter actions. I thought originally the 6300 was damaged because of this, but now I suspect it is something I don't understand that allows the 1090t to perform these tasks better. I have a crosshair iv I have been building for a friend and I am about ready to load the editing software and plop in the 9370 to see if the board has some part in this too. Does anyone have a clue what is happening here?


im really just geussing but ram?


----------



## farscaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you know you can just take screens of your bios right ?


Yes I do, but for whatever reason that function kept failing on me with the usb flash drive on. Trust me it's the first thing I thought of doing.


----------



## Jflisk

If your going to drop the 9730 in there. I hope depending upon the video cards or cards you have in there. You have at least have a 1000 Watt power supply in there they are not kidding about the 225 W rating. I had the 9730 then went up to the 9590.Both use I think the lowest I ever saw 219 w the max 226 W.Also the heat that they put out needs a decent water solution AIO or custom.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> If your going to drop the 9730 in there. I hope depending upon the video cards or cards you have in there. You have at least have a 1000 Watt power supply in there they are not kidding about the 225 W rating. I had the 9730 then went up to the 9590.Both use I think the lowest I ever saw 219 w the max 226 W.Also the heat that they put out needs a decent water solution AIO or custom.


I think 1000w is a bit excessive but a good place to be.. I am running an 8350 clocked at 5.1ghz with 2 460s ocd to 930mhz.. and I am running a 750w.. but I will say the 750w is minimum for multicard setup


----------



## goojah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> im really just geussing but ram?


It's a good guess, and I am all for getting the most out of my ram and if it helps the problem great! However, I have two 16 GB sets I have tried individually with all three CPU's *geil black dragon 1600mhz CL11, and my new sticks *ADATA XPG Xtreme Series 2x8GB DDR3-2133MHz CL10. I have tried both and many different speeds from well below stock to all the way up to 2400 for the ADATA, and performed memory checks with no problems. Right now I am running the ADATA at either 1600 or 1866.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> I think 1000w is a bit excessive but a good place to be.. I am running an 8350 clocked at 5.1ghz with 2 460s ocd to 930mhz.. and I am running a 750w.. but I will say the 750w is minimum for multicard setup


Agreed, I have a very good 700w rated 800w peak PSU http://kuroutoshikou.com/modules/display/?iid=1680
and I am only pushing 1 465GTX at stock speeds. I do have 5 HD's running, and the swiftech radiator but I have tried running just the two most important HD's for video editing and seen no difference.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> at least have a 1000 Watt power supply in there they are not kidding about the 225 W rating. I had the 9730 then went up to the 9590.Both use I think the lowest I ever saw 219 w the max 226 W.Also the heat that they put out needs a decent water solution AIO or custom.


If I was running Multiple GPU's I would have at least an 850W psu, but 225 W is just like another GPU and Running two GPU's with a typical CPU on 700W is not a problem in most situations so since I am only running one GPU, I don't think this is the problem. Plus this same problem occured when running the 1090t and the 6300fx (95w rated).

As for heat, I have it cooled by a Swiftech H320 (360mm radiator) and the CPU and Vcore1 idle in the mid 30's. Under load in Prime I have only seen it hit 61 once. typically it never goes over 57, and it takes a good hour or two to get there, and this is on 1.58v.


----------



## goojah

So after loading another version of AI suite and also validating with CPU-Z it appears my voltage was significantly lower than I thought. More like 1.53. I have since upped it to 1.49 and have a stable (for my tasks) 4.9Ghz on the chip. It is close to passing prime but will need some tweaking or a voltage increase. Frankly I don't care if it passes prime at this point since after updating my video production software I know longer have the sticky glitches. To my shigrin I can run the RAM over 2000Mhz as well 2400mhz was nearly stable and with some tweaking I can probably get there. Rendering times are much much faster than before, and the chip is staying very cool. CPU-Z reported 22C during validation, but I am not sure if I believe that since all other programs including bios put it in the low 30's at idle after running awhile.

Here's a pic of my setup BTW. Need to clean up a few cables, but mostly it is how I want it now. I switched out the two 92mm fans blowing up over the Vcores with a single 120mm. It is doing the job pretty much the same as the 92's with a bit less noise.


----------



## Deadboy90

Hello fellow Sabertoothers. I have a pretty bad problem with my new Saberkitty R2.0 revision 1.01. It takes me at least 3 attempts every time to turn my computer on from a cold boot. I normally press the power button, wait, and... nothing. Fans spin up, lights come on but no display on the screen. Ill turn the computer off and back on and this time ill see the BIOS screen (where you have the option to enter the BIOS) and it will just stay there indefinitely. it doesn't respond to button presses or anything and I am forced to turn it off again. By the third time I am usually good, it boots to Windows with no problem and the computer is 100% solid after that. This is a bizarre issue that has been plaguing me since I first got my Sabertooth board, I originally thought it was DOA. I have had absolutly NO other issues with it other than this and Asus support was perplexed as well, they have no idea whats going on. I can OC with this board no problem and when I am doing restarts it boots without a hitch, its just cold boots that are the issue. PLEASE someone help me. Im also gonna start a new thread for this.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

well... in the same fashion as my doctor who once told me "if it hurts when you do that, don't do that" just don't turn it off







In all seriousness, I am assuming you have tried to flash the bios by now, but it may be a good idea to try a different version than the bios you are running now... I've discovered over time that the bios version can have the wierdest effects even in windows on occasion... I had a game that wouldn't play for nothing, tried every trick in the book and then one day I updated the bios... and poof the game worked... try that if you haven't already tried multiple bios versions.


----------



## Deadboy90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> well... in the same fashion as my doctor who once told me "if it hurts when you do that, don't do that" just don't turn it off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In all seriousness, I am assuming you have tried to flash the bios by now, but it may be a good idea to try a different version than the bios you are running now... I've discovered over time that the bios version can have the wierdest effects even in windows on occasion... I had a game that wouldn't play for nothing, tried every trick in the book and then one day I updated the bios... and poof the game worked... try that if you haven't already tried multiple bios versions.


I'm on BIOS 1703, is there a newer one?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deadboy90*
> 
> Hello fellow Sabertoothers. I have a pretty bad problem with my new Saberkitty R2.0 revision 1.01. It takes me at least 3 attempts every time to turn my computer on from a cold boot. I normally press the power button, wait, and... nothing. Fans spin up, lights come on but no display on the screen. Ill turn the computer off and back on and this time ill see the BIOS screen (where you have the option to enter the BIOS) and it will just stay there indefinitely. it doesn't respond to button presses or anything and I am forced to turn it off again. By the third time I am usually good, it boots to Windows with no problem and the computer is 100% solid after that. This is a bizarre issue that has been plaguing me since I first got my Sabertooth board, I originally thought it was DOA. I have had absolutly NO other issues with it other than this and Asus support was perplexed as well, they have no idea whats going on. I can OC with this board no problem and when I am doing restarts it boots without a hitch, its just cold boots that are the issue. PLEASE someone help me. Im also gonna start a new thread for this.


answered in the other thread CMOS battery i would bet


----------



## By-Tor

2 days ago I lost all but a high pitched sound coming through my speakers and or headset. I re-installed the audio drivers and went as far as re-installing windows and still the same problem.

Has my onboard sound died?

Any ideas for me to try?

Thanks


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deadboy90*
> 
> I'm on BIOS 1703, is there a newer one?


2005 is the latest I believe... and megaman may well be right that the battery is the issue... its unusual for one to die or be dead on a fairly new motherboard, but it can happen... and come to think of it.... I had one in the shop last year that had a similar problem...but it only happened on it when unplugged... then it wouldn't boot until set the clock lol... was a easy/cheap fix... and worth a shot...but I'd still try the bios update first just because it doesn't require buying anything or even opening the case.


----------



## Deadboy90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> 2005 is the latest I believe... and megaman may well be right that the battery is the issue... its unusual for one to die or be dead on a fairly new motherboard, but it can happen... and come to think of it.... I had one in the shop last year that had a similar problem...but it only happened on it when unplugged... then it wouldn't boot until set the clock lol... was a easy/cheap fix... and worth a shot...but I'd still try the bios update first just because it doesn't require buying anything or even opening the case.


Changed the CMOS battery and there was no change, still took multiple attempts to boot. Ill try updating the BIOS. Wow I just realized its been over a year since I did that, I hope I remember how.


----------



## Deadboy90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> 2005 is the latest I believe... and megaman may well be right that the battery is the issue... its unusual for one to die or be dead on a fairly new motherboard, but it can happen... and come to think of it.... I had one in the shop last year that had a similar problem...but it only happened on it when unplugged... then it wouldn't boot until set the clock lol... was a easy/cheap fix... and worth a shot...but I'd still try the bios update first just because it doesn't require buying anything or even opening the case.


Changed the CMOS battery and there was no change, still took multiple attempts to boot. Ill try updating the BIOS. Wow I just realized its been over a year since I did that, I hope I remember how.


----------



## Mega Man

yea bios then reseat everything CPU last

may end up rmaing board tbh


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deadboy90*
> 
> Changed the CMOS battery and there was no change, still took multiple attempts to boot. Ill try updating the BIOS. Wow I just realized its been over a year since I did that, I hope I remember how.


maybe you'll get lucky with that... if not... well... rma sounds good...


----------



## Deadboy90

Ok I booted it just now and it came on without a hitch for he first time ever. Uhh, I'm just gonna do my best not to touch it for a while lest I screw something up.


----------



## Mega Man

nice man !


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deadboy90*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I booted it just now and it came on without a hitch for he first time ever. Uhh, I'm just gonna do my best not to touch it for a while lest I screw something up.


ok.. guess you finally held your nose just right...now each time you boot from now on hold your nose that way


----------



## PiEownz

Hello, I have a problem with my Sabertooth 990FX (1st gen). It has been working perfectly fine for the last 2-3 years but yesterday, I changed my ram speed from 1333MHz to 1600MHz (1600 MHz is my advertised speed) and overclocked my CPU a bit, but it would not post anymore. So far, I tried resetting the CMOS battery, moving the jumper and switching RAM module and yet this problem still occurs. My screen just shows a black screen. I hear everything else running and no LED lights go on.

Any advice?

P.S I did overclock it to 3.6GHz before.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

when you pulled the cmos battery out, did you have the power cord out / power supply turned off and wait to make sure all circuits fully discharged? I've had to wait on some main boards for a few mins for everything to discharge. Also, try inserting some other ram if you have it... that will do two things for you, force the board into resetting the ram settings and test to see if your ram is dead (which is possible given the symptoms) Good luck.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PiEownz*
> 
> Hello, I have a problem with my Sabertooth 990FX (1st gen). It has been working perfectly fine for the last 2-3 years but yesterday, I changed my ram speed from 1333MHz to 1600MHz (1600 MHz is my advertised speed) and overclocked my CPU a bit, but it would not post anymore. So far, I tried resetting the CMOS battery, moving the jumper and switching RAM module and yet this problem still occurs. My screen just shows a black screen. I hear everything else running and no LED lights go on.
> 
> Any advice?
> 
> P.S I did overclock it to 3.6GHz before.


like above also check to see if the ram timings are correct.. this sounds more like a ram config issue other than board issue tbh


----------



## PiEownz

How can I check if I can't even go to the bios menu? Nothing is on the screen it's just black. I'm about to reseat the motherboard and see if that helps if not I might as well reseat the processor.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PiEownz*
> 
> How can I check if I can't even go to the bios menu? Nothing is on the screen it's just black. I'm about to reseat the motherboard and see if that helps if not I might as well reseat the processor.


hit the bios reset button.. or the bios direct key

Tip: hit the bios direct key to start the computer.. of still no post but computer is running press and hold the direct key button until it shuts off then hit again.. should go into overclock fail and let you into the bios

May take a couple tries to hit it just right


----------



## PiEownz

Where is that button located?


----------



## By-Tor

Bottom right corner of the MB


----------



## PiEownz

Right after I power on my computer I see a flash of the CPU led. I also see it shutting down. Is that normal ?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PiEownz*
> 
> Hello, I have a problem with my Sabertooth 990FX (1st gen). It has been working perfectly fine for the last 2-3 years but yesterday, I changed my ram speed from 1333MHz to 1600MHz (1600 MHz is my advertised speed) and overclocked my CPU a bit, but it would not post anymore. So far, I tried resetting the CMOS battery, moving the jumper and switching RAM module and yet this problem still occurs. My screen just shows a black screen. I hear everything else running and no LED lights go on.
> 
> Any advice?
> 
> P.S I did overclock it to 3.6GHz before.


clear bios jumper for 5~10 sec, pc needs to be off i have NEVER needed to pull power for it to work on any of my motherboards.

how did you overclock? via fsb?
if so then you need to downclock your ram , also as mentioned you need to set timings as well
did you set the dram voltage correctly
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> hit the bios reset button.. or the bios direct key
> 
> Tip: hit the bios direct key to start the computer.. of still no post but computer is running press and hold the direct key button until it shuts off then hit again.. should go into overclock fail and let you into the bios
> 
> May take a couple tries to hit it just right


i dont think rev 1 has it


----------



## Tater00nuts

Rigged up a VRM cooler tonight since I plan on finally OC'ing my 8150. Used 2 small fans from an old HDD cooler. They are about 50mm, 5000RPM, 9CFM. I took out the top left MOBO screw and used a longer screw with a nylon spacer and a couple pieces of aluminum sheet to space the fans out. Still need to sleeve the cable and trim the aluminum (I don't like how wide it is) but what a difference. I ran Prime (stock clocks) before installing the fans and the VCOREs were at 57C and 50C after 15 minutes. With the new fans running the VCOREs were at 42C and 36C. Ambient temp is about 21C.


Still reading through all the previous pages (on post 1800 so far) to get a handle on OCing (total n00b) so if someone wants to save me some time and give me a quick checklist of what to enable/disable and some settings that have worked for you it would be much appreciated. It's the rig in my sig but here are the essentials:

8150 with H100i
Sabertooth 990FX (obviously)
8Gigs G.Skill Sniper DDR3 1600
EVGA GTX570 2.5Gig


----------



## Mega Man

here you go, short list....till you click the link
http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> clear bios jumper for 5~10 sec, pc needs to be off i have NEVER needed to pull power for it to work on any of my motherboards.
> 
> how did you overclock? via fsb?
> if so then you need to downclock your ram , also as mentioned you need to set timings as well
> did you set the dram voltage correctly
> i dont think rev 1 has it


well crap.. you may be right


----------



## Jflisk

Tater00nuts
Antec SpotCool and or Antec Spotcool 2 About 8.00 to 15.00 cools the VRMS right down and looks good. Available on the internet


----------



## PiEownz

Nothing is working. I did all of the things you said above. When I overclocked the computer I did change it the fsb and yes I did downclock the ram. I also changed the dram voltage to the advertised specifications which is 1.65v
Now I'm thinking that it's definitely the motherboards problem.


----------



## Jflisk

PIEownz
Did you try pulling all the ram and trying one at a time if that option is open to you.I did not check your specs but if you have more then one stick of ram you can try.Make sure your fan header is plugged in for the cpu. If you want to get real crazy use another machine get a copy of the bios load it then try running it. The bios might be jammed for some reason.


----------



## paulwarden2505

Hi guys i am a soon to be Sabertooth owner granted its a secondhand board but i know for a fact it was only used for 4 months same with the fx8350 cpu the joy of having a boss who has no idea of computing and costs bought both as he got caught up in the buzz of it all then gets bored and buys a high end intel rig should have everything all together by wednesday or thursday looking forward to beginning to play with the parts and compare the saberkitty with my present mobo a 990fxa ud7


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulwarden2505*
> 
> Hi guys i am a soon to be Sabertooth owner granted its a secondhand board but i know for a fact it was only used for 4 months same with the fx8350 cpu the joy of having a boss who has no idea of computing and costs bought both as he got caught up in the buzz of it all then gets bored and buys a high end intel rig should have everything all together by wednesday or thursday looking forward to beginning to play with the parts and compare the saberkitty with my present mobo a 990fxa ud7


Well congrats on the fortunate turn of events.. and you will see it trade blows with the UD7.. It really is a solid board.. Do you know what model it is? rev 1 2 or gen 3?


----------



## Mega Man

welcome dont feel overwhelmed on all the options the power delivery has feel free to let us know any questions !


----------



## shampoo911

i want to see how a pair of r9 290x (or even a single one) behaves on a gen3 sabertooth with a FX 8350..


----------



## hornedfrog86

Hi,

I am looking for a close up photo of the area just to the right of the 8 pin CPU logic board connector. Might anyone have this shot, I am looking for a photo of the number of surface mount resistors near the chip to the right of this connector. Many thanks!


----------



## Tater00nuts

I can't get my 8150 (sig rig) over 4.3 stable. When I bump it up to 4.4 I have to increase the voltage to 1.4375v to get it to boot into Windows but then when I run Prime the temp jumps to 60+ (ambient is 21/H100i running max fan speed, stock fans, push). At 4.3 and 1.375v it runs Prime fine and never gets above 50. Here are my BIOS settings:

 CPU Manual Voltage is the only one I changed, all other volts set to Auto




As you can see I kept most things at Auto including my memory timings which are defaulting to 11-11-11-28 1T @ 1.50v when they were advertised at 9-9-9-24 2T @ 1.35v. Should I manually set these? Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance









*also posting in the AMD FX (Bulldozer / PILEDRIVER!) Owners Club! thread


----------



## Tater00nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hornedfrog86*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am looking for a close up photo of the area just to the right of the 8 pin CPU logic board connector. Might anyone have this shot, I am looking for a photo of the number of surface mount resistors near the chip to the right of this connector. Many thanks!


This what you are looking for?


Should be able to click on that pic and zoom in pretty close.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hornedfrog86*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am looking for a close up photo of the area just to the right of the 8 pin CPU logic board connector. Might anyone have this shot, I am looking for a photo of the number of surface mount resistors near the chip to the right of this connector. Many thanks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tater00nuts*
> 
> I can't get my 8150 (sig rig) over 4.3 stable. When I bump it up to 4.4 I have to increase the voltage to 1.4375v to get it to boot into Windows but then when I run Prime the temp jumps to 60+ (ambient is 21/H100i running max fan speed, stock fans, push). At 4.3 and 1.375v it runs Prime fine and never gets above 50. Here are my BIOS settings:
> As you can see I kept most things at Auto including my memory timings which are defaulting to 11-11-11-28 1T @ 1.50v when they were advertised at 9-9-9-24 2T @ 1.35v. Should I manually set these? Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance


1 change LLC from auto to high or ultra high ( both cpu and cpu/nb ) dont use extreme, and all current capability to 130%
2change timings by hand
3 ( not a hole lot of BD ocing exp ) but i would bump cpu/np up by ~ .1c
4 NB by .1 as well.
try that and report back ! !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tater00nuts*
> 
> This what you are looking for?
> Should be able to click on that pic and zoom in pretty close.


i can get you one as well if needed


----------



## Tater00nuts

CPU LLC to Ultra
CPU/NB LLC to High
CPU Current Capability to 130%
CPU/NB Currnet Capability to 130%
Timings set to 9-9-9-24 2T
DRAM Voltage set to 1.35v
CPU/NB Manual Voltage raised from 1.15 to 1.25
NB Voltage raised from 1.1 to 1.2

Took 1.45v to get into Windows, locked up within seconds of starting Prime. Should I bump the volts a little more? Seems a bit high for just 4.4GHz but I am n00b clocker so


----------



## hornedfrog86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tater00nuts*
> 
> This what you are looking for?
> 
> 
> Should be able to click on that pic and zoom in pretty close.


Thanks so much! That's exactly what I needed.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tater00nuts*
> 
> CPU LLC to Ultra
> CPU/NB LLC to High
> CPU Current Capability to 130%
> CPU/NB Currnet Capability to 130%
> Timings set to 9-9-9-24 2T
> DRAM Voltage set to 1.35v
> CPU/NB Manual Voltage raised from 1.15 to 1.25
> NB Voltage raised from 1.1 to 1.2
> 
> Took 1.45v to get into Windows, locked up within seconds of starting Prime. Should I bump the volts a little more? Seems a bit high for just 4.4GHz but I am n00b clocker so


my old 8150 rig was pretty much the same way... would hit 4.2 stable on ITB at only 1.36vcore... but 4.3 took 1.4 vcore to get stable on ITB and to get 4.5 to boot I had to set it to 1.45 and even then it wasn't stable for long.... I did manage a suicide run on it once hit 5ghz at 1.65 vcore! just long enough to validate lol... later on when I had the parts for my new rig in, I push harder and harder to get over 5 ghz... never made it and eventually blew the vrms out on my old mainboard lol... This time I bought a serious board.. .and vowed that "there will be smoke" when it dies lol.


----------



## Tater00nuts

lol "there will be smoke"

I was hoping for better results but if that's all she's got...oh well.

Sent from my A200 using Tapatalk


----------



## Trinergy

Has anyone ever tried mounting a memory cooler on the VRMs of our board? If so can you post some pix or direct me to any existing that you know of?
Looking for alternatives to sticking a case fan using tape over the VRM.


----------



## paulwarden2505

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Well congrats on the fortunate turn of events.. and you will see it trade blows with the UD7.. It really is a solid board.. Do you know what model it is? rev 1 2 or gen 3?


it is a rev 1 board have a choice of fx 8350 or fx6300 to play with for both boards


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulwarden2505*
> 
> it is a rev 1 board have a choice of fx 8350 or fx6300 to play with for both boards


hope you enjoy. The 8350 is fun to tweak as long as you have the cooling


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> Has anyone ever tried mounting a memory cooler on the VRMs of our board? If so can you post some pix or direct me to any existing that you know of?
> Looking for alternatives to sticking a case fan using tape over the VRM.


From what I recall, those memory coolers are a viable option, too, for airflow to a Saberkitten's vrm block. Might need some minor tweaking, though, I'm not sure on the exact fit.

When I had my Kitten I went with 2 40mm fans and double sided tape.


----------



## Tater00nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> Has anyone ever tried mounting a memory cooler on the VRMs of our board? If so can you post some pix or direct me to any existing that you know of?
> Looking for alternatives to sticking a case fan using tape over the VRM.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-amd-owners-club/3900_100#post_19054708
http://www.overclock.net/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-amd-owners-club/3900_100#post_18972004

some pics of RAM air coolers mounted on the VRMs


----------



## Jflisk

From our forums by utnorris

For water cooling saber kitty VRM and south bridge

Picture done
http://www.overclock.net/g/i/1342092/asus-sabertooth-990fx-rev-1-0-with-koolance-water-blocks/

Blocks and general Idea
http://www.overclock.net/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-amd-owners-club/2270


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> Has anyone ever tried mounting a memory cooler on the VRMs of our board? If so can you post some pix or direct me to any existing that you know of?
> Looking for alternatives to sticking a case fan using tape over the VRM.


quite doable. and i see some pics, you can also just run a screw in between the fins on the hs, i used zip ties ! , on my latest 990fxa-ud7 i just smooshed it in between some tubing !!


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> quite doable. and i see some pics, you can also just run a screw in between the fins on the hs, i used zip ties ! , on my latest 990fxa-ud7 i just smooshed it in between some tubing !!


I have my fans properly balanced in place


----------



## paulwarden2505

i have a choice of the corsair h80i or the h100 unfortunately not the newer model


----------



## Mega Man

get a h220/h320 !!!!!


----------



## paulwarden2505

wish i could but funds are scarce now also the h220 is discontinued and is not available in uk and the 320 costs as much as a new amd fx 8350 which is around the £150 mark


----------



## Trinergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tater00nuts*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-amd-owners-club/3900_100#post_19054708
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-amd-owners-club/3900_100#post_18972004
> 
> some pics of RAM air coolers mounted on the VRMs


This was exactly what I was looking for...it was right under my nose. None of my search terms came up with that post. Hopefully my 120XL doesn't impede it.


----------



## Tater00nuts

I remembered seeing them in here, just used the picture gallery at the top of the thread. I was going to use one myself but decided to rig up my own setup.


----------



## xSneak

I updated to the new 2005 bios and it seems my cpu drops to stock clock speed after I resume from sleep.

Is there some setting in the bios causing this, or is it just the new bios version is faulty.


----------



## azcrazy

Hello some one has the link for the cpu's supported by the first gen saber's?


----------



## Tater00nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azcrazy*
> 
> Hello some one has the link for the cpu's supported by the first gen saber's?


http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#support

go to that link then click "CPU Support"


----------



## Dromihetes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xSneak*
> 
> I updated to the new 2005 bios and it seems my cpu drops to stock clock speed after I resume from sleep.
> 
> Is there some setting in the bios causing this, or is it just the new bios version is faulty.


BIOS 2005 has some strange issues unfortunately in overclocking and even stock.Sometimes doesn t go for the highest clock rate for some reason.
A sleep issue has been reported also.
Overclocking headroom seems to have been capped a little or even more than previous for me.
I am back to 1503 with my FX 6300 and W7.


----------



## xSneak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dromihetes*
> 
> BIOS 2005 has some strange issues unfortunately in overclocking and even stock.Sometimes doesn t go for the highest clock rate for some reason.
> A sleep issue has been reported also.
> Overclocking headroom seems to have been capped a little or even more than previous for me.
> I am back to 1503 with my FX 6300 and W7.


Is this from the asus forums?

thanks for the update







. I'm back to 1903 bios myself.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xSneak*
> 
> Is this from the asus forums?
> 
> thanks for the update
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm back to 1903 bios myself.


personal experience from me is fsb oc is jacked when raising ram clocks.. but I sure can hit over 5ghz with multipleier on the new bios.. im going back to 1503 or 12something


----------



## paulwarden2505

My sabertooth arrived today along with the FX 8350 will be installing them and building 2nd pc over the weekend and overclocking as far as i can go just because i have nothing better to do lol


----------



## Nobsod35

Well I have been using 2005 bios update on my sabberkitty and so far all I see Is a increase in stability and performance, I never use sleep mode anyway, I always thought it messed with mobo's and CPU's, if my rig is running it's doing something.

My rig is, if anyone is interested:

Case: Rosewill Blackhawk Ultra

Mobo: Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0

CPU: AMD FX 8320

Memory: Corsair Vengeance 2x4gb

PSU: Cooler Master V850

PGU's: 2 way SLi 660 ftw signature 2

I have also been people say that they have been getting issues with the new R331 Nvidia Driver, here nothing to report, works fine have had no problems been using since released.. I also have been using the 2005 bios since it's release date..


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nobsod35*
> 
> Well I have been using 2005 bios update on my sabberkitty and so far all I see Is a increase in stability and performance, I never use sleep mode anyway, I always thought it messed with mobo's and CPU's, if my rig is running it's doing something.
> 
> My rig is, if anyone is interested:
> 
> Case: Rosewill Blackhawk Ultra
> 
> Mobo: Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0
> 
> CPU: AMD FX 8320
> 
> Memory: Corsair Vengeance 2x4gb
> 
> PSU: Cooler Master V850
> 
> PGU's: 2 way SLi 660 ftw signature 2
> 
> I have also been people say that they have been getting issues with the new R331 Nvidia Driver, here nothing to report, works fine have had no problems been using since released.. I also have been using the 2005 bios since it's release date..


I am glad you dont have issues. How much of an overclock do you have?

For me I was able to get my ram to 2400mhz at cas 9... when I switched to 2005 I couldnt get past 2133... huuuuge difference.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I'm sure there is a reason for OC'ing memory, but with AMD cpu's I've not seen it make that much difference in benchmarks unless you also OC the cpunb.. .is that generally the case or am I just missing something. benches used: Cinebench, 3dmark11, WEI, and a couple others I just can't think of the name atm... just now getting my coffee


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I'm sure there is a reason for OC'ing memory, but with AMD cpu's I've not seen it make that much difference in benchmarks unless you also OC the cpunb.. .is that generally the case or am I just missing something. benches used: Cinebench, 3dmark11, WEI, and a couple others I just can't think of the name atm... just now getting my coffee


ibdo oc cpunb and it helps.. in synthetis it is most noticed in crystal benchmark..

when I ocd my ram it helped a lot with load times which when gaming and running average fps it helps boost thet.. there was a more snapier feel.. in most cases it helps but dependant on the program is more or less if you see it or not


----------



## goojah

Overclocking RAM can also speed up video editing functions.

And now on another topic after a couple weeks with the FX 9370 chip in my Sabertooth revision 1, I can say I still am happy with the chip. I have reached 4.9 stable, and 5.1 very near stable. My OCing skills are not all that great though, so I am waiting for a more experienced user to take this chip higher and hopefully learn from them.

Today I decided to go the other way and see what kind of Underclocking results I can get. I am starting at 4ghz since that was roughly the speed of my 1090t and it did most of what I needed in video editing/rendering, so with the extra 2 cores this is probably still adequate. The goal here is to see how low I can take the voltage at 4ghz, and then later probably try and work it up to the mid 4's without raising the voltage much. Right now to my pleasant surprise I am running prime at 1.25v 4.013mhz and a nice cool 42c on the cpu. Having a 5ghz chip is nice, but a 4ghz chip at 1.25 is kinda it's own prize. I am happy if this is the bottom, but I am ready to try for lower. I will report back if there is something worth reporting.

Update. I found the floor and then put it up one notch. So far about 30 minutes stable into prime. Not sure if I believe the CPU-Z temp, as Thermal Radar is reporting 40c


----------



## By-Tor

My rig has been running great with my current OC of 4.9ghz processor and 2240mhz memory for months now.

Last night I added 2 more sticks of Samsung wonder ram and when starting the computer up I noticed the rear case fan was not turning and the cold cathold light flickered so I shut it down. Checked the connection and all was fine so I restarted again and it worked as it should and the boot was normal after that. Later I launched BF4 and after a couple of min. It would freeze up on me and this went on for a few tries. I also noticed I had no sound in game other than a hiss coming through my headset.

I decided to run Prime95 and the CPU OC was fine, but when the memory was added it started failing right away. I removed the 2 new sticks of memory and re-ran Prime95 and it still fails after a few min. of stress. I started backing the ram OC down and testing as I went and with every step it would fail prime all the way down to stock speed of 1600mhz where it stressed fine at that speed.

I tried eveything I can think of with the ram and the sound and they are both still FUBAR?

Has anyone else had a problem like this with a Sabertooth MB?

RMA?

Thanks


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> My rig has been running great with my current OC of 4.9ghz processor and 2240mhz memory for months now.
> 
> Last night I added 2 more sticks of Samsung wonder ram and when starting the computer up I noticed the rear case fan was not turning and the cold cathold light flickered so I shut it down. Checked the connection and all was fine so I restarted again and it worked as it should and the boot was normal after that. Later I launched BF4 and after a couple of min. It would freeze up on me and this went on for a few tries. I also noticed I had no sound in game other than a hiss coming through my headset.
> 
> I decided to run Prime95 and the CPU OC was fine, but when the memory was added it started failing right away. I removed the 2 new sticks of memory and re-ran Prime95 and it still fails after a few min. of stress. I started backing the ram OC down and testing as I went and with every step it would fail prime all the way down to stock speed of 1600mhz where it stressed fine at that speed.
> 
> I tried eveything I can think of with the ram and the sound and they are both still FUBAR?
> 
> Have you tried lowering the memory speed?
> 
> I don't know if the versions of Sabertooth have this bug, but I do know that the M5A99X-EVO doesn't like meory speeds over 1600 when al 4 slots are populated.
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> Has anyone else had a problem like this with a Sabertooth MB?
> 
> RMA?
> 
> Thanks


EDIT: well,something went FUBAR... I had a nice short story here. You know: boy meets girl style nice


----------



## By-Tor

^^ ??


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> ^^ ??


Something went awry and FUBARed my reply.

So I'll just give you the gist of it:

You've got all four DIMM slots populated? I don't know if the various revisions of Sabertooth suffer from this issue, but something like the M5A99X-EVO I had didn't like to run it memory faster than 1600MHz with all 4 slots stuffed.

Good luck!


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Something went awry and FUBARed my reply.
> 
> So I'll just give you the gist of it:
> 
> You've got all four DIMM slots populated? I don't know if the various revisions of Sabertooth suffer from this issue, but something like the M5A99X-EVO I had didn't like to run it memory faster than 1600MHz with all 4 slots stuffed.
> 
> Good luck!


Up until I started using the Samsung, it had 4 sticks of 1600 Balistix running @ 1820 with no problems. Not 2 weeks ago I installed the Balistix prior to selling them.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Up until I started using the Samsung, it had 4 sticks of 1600 Balistix running @ 1820 with no problems. Not 2 weeks ago I installed the Balistix prior to selling them.


OK,so that's not it, then.

I noticed the words "selling them" referring to those Balistix modules. I take it you have nothing else to swap the Sammy's with for testing?

You've tried single RAM sticks? Two sticks in A1 B1 or A2 B2? You've reset bios to default and checked stability?

Checked the voltages on which the DIMMs run? Some Samsungs are ULV, but not that I know of 1.5V or 1.65V could trully damage them...

I'm floundering, here - I'm stumped, if all of the above has been checked.

Good luck!


----------



## By-Tor

I reset the MB to default settings and started bumping the FSB up 100 at a time and keeping the CPU at 4.0ghz was able to get all 4 sticks to @ 2086mhz. Now I need to start OCing the CPU back up to hopefully 4.9ghz again, but will have to wait and see...


----------



## SgtHawker

My Rev 1 Sabertooth has had 4 sticks of Corsair Dominator GT for over 2 years with no problem running at 1866.

Does your power supply provide enough amperage for dual 7950s 4 slots of memory all OC'd running on water? Do you have cooling for your VRMs?


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*
> 
> My Rev 1 Sabertooth has had 4 sticks of Corsair Dominator GT for over 2 years with no problem running at 1866.
> 
> Does your power supply provide enough amperage for dual 7950s 4 slots of memory all OC'd running on water? Do you have cooling for your VRMs?


Just finished 2 hours of Prime95 running at 4.9ghz on 1.47v (same as before) and all 4 sticks of Ram are running @ 2070mhz on 1.47v. System seems to be stable, but I'm sure it still needs more tweaking to dial it in.

Just did some benching with the above OC and both cards @ 1200/1600 and everything is nice a smooth.

Installed this PSU a few weeks back and have had no issues with it as far as I know.
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7580854&CatId=2534

The MB's VRM's are being cooled by this 90 CFM Delta fan.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/de92ffhisp.html

Going to play some BF4 and see if it run better than yesterday...

Thanks for the help...


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Just finished 2 hours of Prime95 running at 4.9ghz on 1.47v (same as before) and all 4 sticks of Ram are running @ 2070mhz on 1.47v. System seems to be stable, but I'm sure it still needs more tweaking to dial it in.
> 
> Just did some benching with the above OC and both cards @ 1200/1600 and everything is nice a smooth.
> 
> Installed this PSU a few weeks back and have had no issues with it as far as I know.
> http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7580854&CatId=2534
> 
> The MB's VRM's are being cooled by this 90 CFM Delta fan.
> http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7580854&CatId=2534
> 
> Going to play some BF4 and see if it run better than yesterday...
> 
> Thanks for the help...


Both links take you to the power supply...just FYI.


----------



## By-Tor

Corrected

ty


----------



## SgtHawker

Nice fan...thanks for the correction.


----------



## Nobsod35

no overclock yet, been dialing in my Rig for that..Also have not ever did much OCing. Not really sure what to do to do a great OC on my Rig anyway, works great the way it is, not want to mess things up


----------



## Minotaurtoo

oh mess with it : ) the stock settings are only tuned in the loosest sense, you can (on some chips) get 4.2 ghz to pass ITB (I ran prime only 2 hours, but no fails) at only 1.28vcore instead of the 1.38vcore turbo core gives it... at 1.38vcore I get 4.4 ghz nice and happy, stays cool on my H80 and it will pass ITB @ 20 runs with no problem... (can use lower voltage, but just prefer to use 1.38 because it gives me the best benches).... both of those OC's give me less than stock settings power consumption... I've hit 5.217 ghz, but I don't have the cooling to maintain that







Highest I can keep cool and usably stable is 4.8 ghz... it won't pass prime.. or ITB, but for some reason works fine otherwise... but the bench's do suffer for the stability... best bench I've ran on it was actually at 4.6ghz... and those settings will pass ITB... If I had the cooling for it, I am sure I could get 5+ ghz stable on this chip for 24/7 use... but I just stick at 4.4ghz... its better than stock, stays nice and cool and this desktop is more stable than my laptop (no random crashes for no apparent reason)


----------



## By-Tor

Thinking about replacing my 16gb's of Samsung wonder ram with 2x8gbs sticks of either 1866 or 2133. The Spec's on the Sabertooth show 1866 as the highest supported ram.

Can the Sabertooth paired with a FX-8350 utilize 2133 ram?


----------



## Mega Man

i ran my saberkitty with 2400 ram

so it would depend on your imc in your chip.

but yes it can without issue


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i ran my saberkitty with 2400 ram
> 
> so it would depend on your imc in your chip.
> 
> but yes it can without issue


After adding 2 more sticks I can't get anything above stock stable on the ram now... Even removing the second pair I can't get the prior OC stable...


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I tried OC'ing my ram, but it just killed my cpu OC... I could turn down the cpu a bit and then OC the ram... but I just stuck with stock speeds on the ram and went for higher cpu OC... I do have all 4 slots filled... so that's likely my problem.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I tried OC'ing my ram, but it just killed my cpu OC... I could turn down the cpu a bit and then OC the ram... but I just stuck with stock speeds on the ram and went for higher cpu OC... I do have all 4 slots filled... so that's likely my problem.


Yep, having all four slots filled will always limit the potential of your CPU overclock, not to mention how much harder it can make RAM overclocking.


----------



## darkelixa

Everytime I turn my amd 8350/asus sabertooth rv2 down my onboard audio makes a hissing sound for about 3-5 seconds just before it shuts down. Have tried different speakers and with just headphones pluged in. Is this normal or do i need to invest in a soundcard? The Bios is completly up to date REV 2005

Sometimes it makes the sound, sometimes it doesnt, with onbaord audio turned off the sound does not occur.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Everytime I turn my amd 8350/asus sabertooth rv2 down my onboard audio makes a hissing sound for about 3-5 seconds just before it shuts down. Have tried different speakers and with just headphones pluged in. Is this normal or do i need to invest in a soundcard? The Bios is completly up to date REV 2005
> 
> Sometimes it makes the sound, sometimes it doesnt, with onbaord audio turned off the sound does not occur.


That's odd. This hissing noise (through the speakers?) occurs when you shut your computer down?

But do you experience any other problems? If not, I don't think you'd need to worry too much about it.

So long it just that, it's just odd, maybe some interference caused by the powering down.


----------



## wolfwalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Everytime I turn my amd 8350/asus sabertooth rv2 down my onboard audio makes a hissing sound for about 3-5 seconds just before it shuts down. Have tried different speakers and with just headphones pluged in. Is this normal or do i need to invest in a soundcard? The Bios is completly up to date REV 2005
> 
> Sometimes it makes the sound, sometimes it doesnt, with onbaord audio turned off the sound does not occur.


Same here, don't think it did it before the most recent bios but I wouldn't swear thats the case.


----------



## darkelixa

No real issues in powering the pc down and no issues with sound when the pc is on with music or gaming at all. Oh so you also think its a bios issue?

With purchasing a new sound card does it matter if its a pci v2.2. Will it fit onto the pci slot thats down the bottom on the mainboard

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=211&products_id=15774&zenid=881929a0e7c62854f87af0fe54ce175d

Thats the soundcard I was looking at buying to stop the issue


----------



## darkelixa

Does it matter that the gold connectors are longer than the pci slot?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> No real issues in powering the pc down and no issues with sound when the pc is on with music or gaming at all. Oh so you also think its a bios issue?
> 
> With purchasing a new sound card does it matter if its a pci v2.2. Will it fit onto the pci slot thats down the bottom on the mainboard
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=211&products_id=15774&zenid=881929a0e7c62854f87af0fe54ce175d
> 
> Thats the soundcard I was looking at buying to stop the issue


have you tried the older bios as I suggested?


----------



## darkelixa

When I go home for lunch in a hour and a bit I will, really hate flashing a BIOS in case it Bricks the board


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> When I go home for lunch in a hour and a bit I will, really hate flashing a BIOS in case it Bricks the board


these boards have bios flashback.. if it bricks the board there are a few ways around it.. bios flashing isnt as risky as back in the day.. besides in most cases only way to screw it up is to pull the power in the middle of it


----------



## darkelixa

How exactly would you get around it from a bricked board? Is using the AIsuit to flash the bios a good way to do so?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> How exactly would you get around it from a bricked board? Is using the AIsuit to flash the bios a good way to do so?


thats fine. You also can download the bios to a flash drive and do it in the bios


----------



## darkelixa

Awesome thank you, would you know if that sound card that I linked would fit on that mainboard by any chance?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Awesome thank you, would you know if that sound card that I linked would fit on that mainboard by any chance?


I think so.. before you buy make sure you find out for sure its pci 32 compatible.. if I remember correctly it should be ok but its been a good 8 years since I delt with using pci other than nics


----------



## darkelixa

Just seems weird that all the sound cards seem to have gold connectors longer than the pci slot


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Just seems weird that all the sound cards seem to have gold connectors longer than the pci slot


back in the day pci slots used to come in 64bit wide 32 just was the standard.. any more pcie 1x is the standard for sound cards which your board has

this for a little more is a better card http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=211&products_id=21751

this one is closer to the one you looked at
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=211&products_id=21183

which the first one is more comparable to onboard sound


----------



## darkelixa

The first one that you linked back I wont be able to install as the gigabyte 7870 2gb takes up two slots


----------



## darkelixa

Actually both of them will get blocked as they are the same pci-e


----------



## Tater00nuts

My Sabertooth does the same hiss during shutdown but only for about a second or 2.


----------



## darkelixa

Tried flashing to the 1503 still doing the hiss, so its a common thing with asus sabertooths?


----------



## wolfwalker

I never noticed the hiss till I had headphones on. If I had big speakers and kept them cranked up much I'd be really annoyed with it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Does it matter that the gold connectors are longer than the pci slot?


depends....
if you mean deeper then then yes it is fine.

if you mean longer like your trying to put a x4 or x16 in to a x1 slot then no it does not matter BUT you will need to break the back of the PCI slot to make it fit.

pci is amazing if you put a x16 card into a x1 slot it will still work.... just slower


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> depends....
> if you mean deeper then then yes it is fine.
> 
> if you mean longer like your trying to put a x4 or x16 in to a x1 slot then no it does not matter BUT you will need to break the back of the PCI slot to make it fit.
> 
> pci is amazing if you put a x16 card into a x1 slot it will still work.... just slower


The card he wants is PCI, not PCI-E. From what I gather, an x16 card can only work in an x1 slot if the motherboard and the card in question support that feature, but apparently it is not common.


----------



## Mega Man

ahhhh nvm


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ahhhh nvm


its ok ancient technology lol :hug:


----------



## Droviin

I'm looking for the Windows 8.1 64bit chipset drivers for the R2.0. I can't find drivers on ASUS's site or on AMD's. Anybody know where to get some?


----------



## Mega Man

download catalyst it is included.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droviin*
> 
> I'm looking for the Windows 8.1 64bit chipset drivers for the R2.0. I can't find drivers on ASUS's site or on AMD's. Anybody know where to get some?


Chipset
http://support.amd.com/en-us/download/chipset?os=Windows%208%20-%2032

For 700 or above
Find catalyst 13.9 has the driver


----------



## Droviin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> download catalyst it is included.


Well, that makes it easy. I'll do that. I was hoping that they had updated the driver past 13.9, or came out with something specific for Windows 8.1.


----------



## Jflisk

I believe they only do chipset drivers on official driver versions. The betas include the ones from the official drivers. Thanks


----------



## plywood99

I been pulling my hair out trying to get USB 3 ports to work on my board under Windows 8.1. I read it had maybe something to do with ASus AI suite usb boost. I do not have any AI suite stuff installed.
Latest drivers I can find are from october but they don't help at all.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

hmm.. .do you mean work at usb 3.0 speeds or just work period? I'm assuming that you mean work @ 3.0 speeds... if so I installed a beta driver for the chipset... think it was included in AMD CCC


----------



## plywood99

I mean work at all. Under Windows 8 all USB ports worked fine.
Now with 8.1 USB 3.0 ports simply don't work.


----------



## Mega Man

iirc mine worked with preinstalled drivers from windows. may try uninstalling asus drivers ( granted this was on my CVFz. ) will be putting together my HTPC and my saberkitty will be going in it later. maybe next weekend....


----------



## Cheda

Ok guys i'm in a tough spot.I found this board at half it's price,but it was used around 2 years.I'm asking if it will still hold on,or rather how long did u use it without any problems?


----------



## Mega Man

i would still use it if it supported CFXx4 natively

great power system.

better imo then the CVFz

have benched at 5.5ghz on my saberkitty


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> I mean work at all. Under Windows 8 all USB ports worked fine.
> Now with 8.1 USB 3.0 ports simply don't work.


mega may be right, but I had no issues like that... just worked.. sorry you are having trouble.. .but a uninstall of usb hub drivers and let windows install the generic should work.


----------



## EllusionSK

Hey guys I have the ASUS 990FX rev 1 - and the QVL is not up to date, that I know of. I and doing a rebuild and want to upgrade my ram. Does anyone use or know if Kingston HyperX Beast or Predator 1866 RAM will work? I am pretty sure it will but I do not want to run into any issues. Thanks.


----------



## Th_Remedy

Hey so I got a issue I hope you guys and gals can help with! I have the Revision 2.0 sabertooth 990fx and it is osm, but I am having issues getting my corsair SP120 static pressure fan (used inside the heatsink sammich of my Tuniq 120mm extreme tower cpu cooler) to be monitored for fan speed in BIOS or AIsuite, HWmonitor, and any software I have tried. I have tried it with and with out the PWM cable thingy. So at first I was like sadface my CPU fan header went out?! then switching around fans, that is not the case it seems as it will monitor other fans seemingly perfectly. I have tried several fan headers to no avail. Should I just disconnect the fan speed limiter PWM cable and cross my fingers on it running at the full speed (2350 RPM)? Or any ideas on what to try?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EllusionSK*
> 
> Hey guys I have the ASUS 990FX rev 1 - and the QVL is not up to date, that I know of. I and doing a rebuild and want to upgrade my ram. Does anyone use or know if Kingston HyperX Beast or Predator 1866 RAM will work? I am pretty sure it will but I do not want to run into any issues. Thanks.


99% of ram works... but they are not guaranteed to work.. however i have not heard any problems with those brands so far

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th_Remedy*
> 
> Hey so I got a issue I hope you guys and gals can help with! I have the Revision 2.0 sabertooth 990fx and it is osm, but I am having issues getting my corsair SP120 static pressure fan (used inside the heatsink sammich of my Tuniq 120mm extreme tower cpu cooler) to be monitored for fan speed in BIOS or AIsuite, HWmonitor, and any software I have tried. I have tried it with and with out the PWM cable thingy. So at first I was like sadface my CPU fan header went out?! then switching around fans, that is not the case it seems as it will monitor other fans seemingly perfectly. I have tried several fan headers to no avail. Should I just disconnect the fan speed limiter PWM cable and cross my fingers on it running at the full speed (2350 RPM)? Or any ideas on what to try?


hmm.. nope sorry are you sure it is not the rpm sensor in the fans?, could also be they are pwm and even though it has 4 pins does not mean the mobo header is pwm...


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> mega may be right, but I had no issues like that... just worked.. sorry you are having trouble.. .but a uninstall of usb hub drivers and let windows install the generic should work.


Yeah, I have a Gen3 and 8.1 and my USB 3.0 ports still work. Pretty weird.


----------



## cab2

Are we gonna get Steamroller for this mobo?


----------



## Pholostan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> Are we gonna get Steamroller for this mobo?


No.

Steamroller cores comes to socket FM2+ in form of four-core Kaveri APUs early next year. I'd be very surprised if AM3+ gets anything new really.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> Are we gonna get Steamroller for this mobo?


may not but not confirmed.. although roadmap to 2014 doesnt have but amd has been very good about being tight lipped


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> I been pulling my hair out trying to get USB 3 ports to work on my board under Windows 8.1. I read it had maybe something to do with ASus AI suite usb boost. I do not have any AI suite stuff installed.
> Latest drivers I can find are from october but they don't help at all.


Did you check the bios and make sure there turned on in there you can shut off ports in there. You'll have to look its in the advanced section of the bios.You might want to try turning them off and on also. Might help.


----------



## plywood99

Thank you all for replying about my USB 3.0 problems.

1) Yes I tried to uninstall all usb 3 drivers, even selecting the delete driver files option, and then allowing Windows to install the driver.
2) Yes the ports are indeed turned on in the bios.

It's odd really. The ports show up in device manager just fine. Drivers installed fine, no ! exclamation next to devices, no failed to install drivers or anything. But anything I plug into them simply is not recognized. I can plug in a hardrive and it lights up showing it's getting power. But Windows does nothing, like I never even plugged anything in at all.



I just don't get what the problem is.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

in the airplane industry they call that a gremlin... at this point I'm starting to think virus or a bit of trashed code.... is there a way you could boot from some other source and install W 8.1 onto to see if it happens again...


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Thank you all for replying about my USB 3.0 problems.
> 
> 1) Yes I tried to uninstall all usb 3 drivers, even selecting the delete driver files option, and then allowing Windows to install the driver.
> 2) Yes the ports are indeed turned on in the bios.
> 
> It's odd really. The ports show up in device manager just fine. Drivers installed fine, no ! exclamation next to devices, no failed to install drivers or anything. But anything I plug into them simply is not recognized. I can plug in a hardrive and it lights up showing it's getting power. But Windows does nothing, like I never even plugged anything in at all.
> 
> I just don't get what the problem is.


Just boot Linux MInt off USB3 flash drive. If the ports work fine then it's a Windows *software* problem and nothing wrong with your hardware.


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pholostan*
> 
> No.
> 
> Steamroller cores comes to socket FM2+ in form of four-core Kaveri APUs early next year. I'd be very surprised if AM3+ gets anything new really.


Thank you. We have two of these R2.0 running 965BE at 4GHz. What would be the best upgrade CPU and is it really worth it?


----------



## Dromihetes

AMD may release Steamroller for the AM3+ as some enthusiast product ,who knows.
Or maybe we will see some 10/12 core CPU derived from some server stuff.
FM2+ platform is a step forward nevertheless.


----------



## Dromihetes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Thank you all for replying about my USB 3.0 problems.
> 
> 1) Yes I tried to uninstall all usb 3 drivers, even selecting the delete driver files option, and then allowing Windows to install the driver.
> 2) Yes the ports are indeed turned on in the bios.
> 
> It's odd really. The ports show up in device manager just fine. Drivers installed fine, no ! exclamation next to devices, no failed to install drivers or anything. But anything I plug into them simply is not recognized. I can plug in a hardrive and it lights up showing it's getting power. But Windows does nothing, like I never even plugged anything in at all.
> 
> 
> 
> I just don't get what the problem is.


Maybe some conflict with other driver.
In a clean install i install the USB 3 driver as the first one
If the USB 3.0 driver works don t update it ever.


----------



## Pholostan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> Thank you. We have two of these R2.0 running 965BE at 4GHz. What would be the best upgrade CPU and is it really worth it?


The 8350 would be the best upgrade. It has higher performance, and actually draws less power for doing the same amount of work. Really depends on what you do with those computers if it's worth it, say for rendering and encoding video it is really worth it. The 9000-series FX are only binned 8350s, and the asking price has been quite high, too high to be worth it in my book. A Black Friday sale maybe?

I'm setting up my Sabertooth to be water cooled, got Koolance blocks for the VRM:s and the NB. Planning to make a copper backplate for the CPU socket, might get some of the silly high socket temperatures I've seen a bit lower. Might be able to fit a Opteron heatsink back there, Dynatron made a low profile one entirely out of copper IIRC.

Got some 2 mm thick copper plate to make stuff out of, I'm not very good doing stuff like that, and my tools are also lacking (yeah, blame the tools smuck!). I might post some pictures if it doesn't turn out too badly


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pholostan*
> 
> The 8350 would be the best upgrade. It has higher performance, and actually draws less power for doing the same amount of work. Really depends on what you do with those computers if it's worth it, say for rendering and encoding video it is really worth it. The 9000-series FX are only binned 8350s, and the asking price has been quite high, too high to be worth it in my book. A Black Friday sale maybe?
> 
> I'm setting up my Sabertooth to be water cooled, got Koolance blocks for the VRM:s and the NB. Planning to make a copper backplate for the CPU socket, might get some of the silly high socket temperatures I've seen a bit lower. Might be able to fit a Opteron heatsink back there, Dynatron made a low profile one entirely out of copper IIRC.
> 
> Got some 2 mm thick copper plate to make stuff out of, I'm not very good doing stuff like that, and my tools are also lacking (yeah, blame the tools smuck!). I might post some pictures if it doesn't turn out too badly


Thank you. Don't use copper, it's an excellent conductor but too soft. You need a steel backplate to keep the mobo from bending. If you change your mind and go with air-cooling, I can post photo of the strongest setup possible for AMD platform. The VRMs are the hottest part on Sabertooth, but the stock heatsink does a good job.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pholostan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> Thank you. We have two of these R2.0 running 965BE at 4GHz. What would be the best upgrade CPU and is it really worth it?
> 
> 
> 
> The 8350 would be the best upgrade. It has higher performance, and actually draws less power for doing the same amount of work. Really depends on what you do with those computers if it's worth it, say for rendering and encoding video it is really worth it. The 9000-series FX are only binned 8350s, and the asking price has been quite high, too high to be worth it in my book. A Black Friday sale maybe?
> 
> I'm setting up my Sabertooth to be water cooled, got Koolance blocks for the VRM:s and the NB. Planning to make a copper backplate for the CPU socket, might get some of the silly high socket temperatures I've seen a bit lower. Might be able to fit a Opteron heatsink back there, Dynatron made a low profile one entirely out of copper IIRC.
> 
> Got some 2 mm thick copper plate to make stuff out of, I'm not very good doing stuff like that, and my tools are also lacking (yeah, blame the tools smuck!). I might post some pictures if it doesn't turn out too badly
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pholostan*
> 
> The 8350 would be the best upgrade. It has higher performance, and actually draws less power for doing the same amount of work. Really depends on what you do with those computers if it's worth it, say for rendering and encoding video it is really worth it. The 9000-series FX are only binned 8350s, and the asking price has been quite high, too high to be worth it in my book. A Black Friday sale maybe?
> 
> I'm setting up my Sabertooth to be water cooled, got Koolance blocks for the VRM:s and the NB. Planning to make a copper backplate for the CPU socket, might get some of the silly high socket temperatures I've seen a bit lower. Might be able to fit a Opteron heatsink back there, Dynatron made a low profile one entirely out of copper IIRC.
> 
> Got some 2 mm thick copper plate to make stuff out of, I'm not very good doing stuff like that, and my tools are also lacking (yeah, blame the tools smuck!). I might post some pictures if it doesn't turn out too badly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you. Don't use copper, it's an excellent conductor but too soft. You need a steel backplate to keep the mobo from bending. If you change your mind and go with air-cooling, I can post photo of the strongest setup possible for AMD platform. The VRMs are the hottest part on Sabertooth, but the stock heatsink does a good job.
Click to expand...

my idea is to use 100% copper as a backplate for the VRMs (will be a block ) with thermal tape, and make a 100% block ( braized with 45% rod ) for the cpu socket that goes on the cpu backplate.


----------



## Jflisk

Looks like a new bios for our saber kitties 2103 is available as of today by the looks of things. I also just installed it.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Looks like a new bios for our saber kitties 2103 is available as of today by the looks of things. I also just installed it.


hehe, there obviously an issue with the BIOS 2001 if they released another so fast


----------



## wolfwalker

Installed, wasn't a problem with the previous one but I'm that guy, so.
No probs, reset ALL my bios settings to default, previous update did not, mildly annoying.
Either this is new or I forgot it from last time, but in the AI tuning, setting memory timing manually,
you click on Auto in the timing field, nothing happens. Unlike the entire rest of the bios.
One has to manually hit 7 or 8 or whatever they want the field to be on the keyboard.
Less than intuitive and consistent. But we are [email protected] again.
It also set all my fans to high and freaked out my wife and dogs, forgot how loud this
thing was without fan speed control.

It may have been the Assrock before, but I could have sworn the board would auto detect the timings
via the AMP or whatever it's called this memory supports. Didn't this time, I might be remembering wrong though.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

*bragging* that's why I love my fans... can run at max 24/7 cause they are sooo quiet and still manage to pump out 69 CFM and I can't hear them over my typing atm *bragging over* but I do completely understand the reaction to the loud fans, I've had house calls where the only thing wrong with the computer was someone turned off the fan controls accidentally in the bios and the fans sound freaked them out.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Looks like a new bios for our saber kitties 2103 is available as of today by the looks of things. I also just installed it.


Hey on the site it says support for new CPUs.. what the heck does that mean since BIOS 17xx added the support for 9370 and 9570


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Hey on the site it says support for new CPUs.. what the heck does that mean since BIOS 17xx added the support for 9370 and 9570


I really dont know I saw a post somewhere and i cant find it now here on overclockers.net it was listed as bios 2103 for the Asus sabertooth Gen3 FX990 r2.The same bios was available for the sabertooth R2 FX990 It gave the description as added support for 9370 and 9590. Might be added support for something they didn't get right the first time.

Found it
http://www.overclock.net/t/1444707/new-sabertooth-990fx-gen3-r2-0-bios-version-2103-released-today-11-21-2013


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I really dont know I saw a post somewhere and i cant find it now here on overclockers.net it was listed as bios 2103 for the Asus sabertooth Gen3 FX990 r2.The same bios was available for the sabertooth R2 FX990 It gave the description as added support for 9370 and 9590. Might be added support for something they didn't get it right the first time.


Thats about the only thing that I can think of.. not sure because I did skip 17-1903 to 2001 which I didn't like at all..


----------



## wolfwalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> *bragging* that's why I love my fans... can run at max 24/7 cause they are sooo quiet and still manage to pump out 69 CFM and I can't hear them over my typing atm *bragging over* but I do completely understand the reaction to the loud fans, I've had house calls where the only thing wrong with the computer was someone turned off the fan controls accidentally in the bios and the fans sound freaked them out.


Yeah, there's like 10 120mm's in this box, if it's quieter than the refrigerator running I call it a win lol.
Total overkill, but so is an 8 core cpu, so hey...


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> Yeah, there's like 10 120mm's in this box, if it's quieter than the refrigerator running I call it a win lol.
> Total overkill, but so is an 8 core cpu, so hey...


at one time I had 7 in here, but I changed over to the cougar fans that I could actually run at full speed without having a dull roar so now I only have 5 fans all 120 mm even at full speed I can't hear them over my power supply fan and its very quiet... I just can't stand fan noise... and apparently I typed in the wrong cfm... it says 109 cfm where I bought them from http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7867794&CatId=802

They are really very quiet and I would recommend them to anyone wanting a quiet rig.


----------



## wolfwalker

I had some PWM Cougars awhile back, really nice fans for the money but they made a funny high pitched noise at low rpms that drove me nuts.
Most of mine now are these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006BA9I4W/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Very happy with them for the price. I have a spare 140mm Noctua on the backside of the board and a couple of PWM Noctua 120's on the D14, and the 200mm on top that I'm not convinced does much really other than hang out and look cool.
It's plenty audible with them all at 800rpm or so but not objectionable to me, Antec 1100. The vid card is louder than all the rest when it's working hard. Way too much money in fans still, I'd like to replace them all with Noctua stuff but sheesh..


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I run mine at 1200-1300 rpm which is their max, and I can't hear them over my typing on the keyboard even... very quiet... and keeps it all cool... I just get miffed at fan noise lol.. its a bit of a pet peeve of mine... even my laptop fan bugs me so I went with the quietest fans I could find... probably spent 100's of dollars trying out fans before finding the cougar fans... and I don't get any audible noise from them at all... but my video card fans still annoy me... its that gigabyte windforce edition with 3 fans... quiet at idle... but in gaming I can hear it... of coarse, my pc is on my desktop at head level so that makes it a bit of an annoyance when it makes noise.


----------



## wolfwalker

I had these
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553006
They were as noisy as the $8 ones to my half-worn out ears.
The whole noise thing is pretty subjective, I put my PC on my gun-ear side so it don't bother me so much.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

yeah, mine are a little bit quieter than those... and don't have PWM... didn't need it as I am running them at full speed anyway... my ears are extremely sensitive to noises like air leaks, wind noise and hisses so much so that an average ceramic heater can make enough noise to keep me from understanding people in the room with me... ear doc says that my ears can hear pitches well above normal human hearing lol.. like dog whistles and CRT noise from the tube on old tv's... and so on... meanwhile I have below average hearing at lower pitches... soooo fan noise really gets on my nerves ... dad always thought it was funny that I could tell when he had the tv on even if it was on mute and why it got on my nerves when I was trying to sleep.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Update: so I went back to BIOS 1201 from 2001, Noticed a huge difference in over clock ability. Main thing is that I pus my ram hard. I can now hit 2136Mhz cas 8 again.,, or 2400Mhz cas 9

I really think that there was an issue with BIOS 2001, Anyone try 2103 yet?


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Update: so I went back to BIOS 1201 from 2001, Noticed a huge difference in over clock ability. Main thing is that I pus my ram hard. I can now hit 2136Mhz cas 8 again.,, or 2400Mhz cas 9
> 
> I really think that there was an issue with BIOS 2001, Anyone try 2103 yet?


I too am interested in 2103 now... just because it came out so quick suggest stability issues in 2001.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

sooooo, I got my new lights in so my saberkitty is all lit up now... even put a light strip behind the monitor for a bit of an ominous glow... 

comment is invited.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> sooooo, I got my new lights in so my saberkitty is all lit up now... even put a light strip behind the monitor for a bit of an ominous glow...
> 
> comment is invited.


I feel like a moth .... zapppppp ouch ..... ooooo prettyy... zaaappppp ouch


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Update: so I went back to BIOS 1201 from 2001, Noticed a huge difference in over clock ability. Main thing is that I pus my ram hard. I can now hit 2136Mhz cas 8 again.,, or 2400Mhz cas 9
> 
> I really think that there was an issue with BIOS 2001, Anyone try 2103 yet?


I have the 2103 installed with no problems. Except it reset all my values and I had to redo them.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I have the 2103 installed with no problems. Except it reset all my values and I had to redo them.


How are the RAM dividers, are you able to just use them with out needing to up the BIOS IE if you have 1600 ram that OCs to 2133.. do the dividers work well?
(its a tough one to test unless you know you have RAM that can do that)

that was my biggest issue with 2001 was that and that the RAM no matter what voltage I threw at it could not do 2133 cas 9 (even though I know this RAM can do c8 2133 or cas 9 2400)


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> I feel like a moth .... zapppppp ouch ..... ooooo prettyy... zaaappppp ouch


lol love that comment...


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> How are the RAM dividers, are you able to just use them with out needing to up the BIOS IE if you have 1600 ram that OCs to 2133.. do the dividers work well?
> (its a tough one to test unless you know you have RAM that can do that)
> 
> that was my biggest issue with 2001 was that and that the RAM no matter what voltage I threw at it could not do 2133 cas 9 (even though I know this RAM can do c8 2133 or cas 9 2400)


I have mine running at 1866 with no problem. Granted its not 2133, Your not trying to do 2133 with 4x anything are you. I noticed that never worked so well. I have 1866 2x8gb.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I have mine running at 1866 with no problem. Granted its not 2133, Your not trying to do 2133 with 4x anything are you. I noticed that never worked so well. I have 1866 2x8gb.


i never did pay attention to what multiplier rather the speed... so lets say I was running 1866 ram cas 9 I was never able to hit 2400 just by divider.. (thats not an issue for me) I would use FSB

One thing that I experienced on 2001 is that it will defaul to 1600 (which is fine my ram is rated at 1866 cas 9 anyway) so if I bumped up to 1866 then fsb overclocked to 2133 it would fail

If i bumped directly to 2000 then FSB oc it failed

Now.. on BIOS 1201 and 1503 I was able to

bump up to 2000 then OC to 2133.. if I wanted to to hit 2400 I had my FSB at 299 (these boards for some reason hit 1mhz higher i noticed from what you set) then I think I used the 1600 divider

With 2001 It would not really allow me to clock higher than 1900 for whatever reason no matter which divider I used or how I chose to OC I do not know specifically what it was but something tells me that the power delivery coding was off some how for the ram..

mind you on BIOS 1201 I could not hit 5.1 off of multi only for CPU but.. on 2001the I was able to hit it wonderfully efficent and 0 effort
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> lol love that comment...


Hehe It was half awake and that was the first thought that had came to my mind


----------



## wolfwalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> yeah, mine are a little bit quieter than those... and don't have PWM... didn't need it as I am running them at full speed anyway... my ears are extremely sensitive to noises like air leaks, wind noise and hisses so much so that an average ceramic heater can make enough noise to keep me from understanding people in the room with me... ear doc says that my ears can hear pitches well above normal human hearing lol.. like dog whistles and CRT noise from the tube on old tv's... and so on... meanwhile I have below average hearing at lower pitches... soooo fan noise really gets on my nerves ... dad always thought it was funny that I could tell when he had the tv on even if it was on mute and why it got on my nerves when I was trying to sleep.


Thats interesting, prior to some gunfire in a small room years ago and an unfortunate commercial jet ride shortly after with a less than talented flight engineer, I was able to hear that sort of thing as well.
I could in fact hear when a PC was under load VS idle, pretty sure it was the power supply making very high frequency noise. Now I'm just real sensitive to background hum, if it's at a certain range it's difficult to follow low voices and such. One of these days I'm going to build a tiny silent PC for work if nothing else.


----------



## Pholostan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> Thank you. Don't use copper, it's an excellent conductor but too soft. You need a steel backplate to keep the mobo from bending. If you change your mind and go with air-cooling, I can post photo of the strongest setup possible for AMD platform. The VRMs are the hottest part on Sabertooth, but the stock heatsink does a good job.


I had fans on my stock heatsink earlier, and that worked okay. Doing waterblocks mostly just for fun. I don't really expect much more performance. The 8350 I have now can do 4.8 GHz stable, and then it needs pretty much the max voltage the board can supply. I had alreay got a Dynatron heatsink, completely forgot about it. Looks like this here:
Dynatron A48G Low profile Opteron cooler
It is massive copper, 500 grams of pure metal. I made a copper shim to clear the components in the middle (color is all weird):

Then put some rivet nuts in the holes in the heatsink, was a bit hard to reach the holes with the tools though. Had to bend the fins.

But it worked out, with some thermal pad under it, it fit nicely as a backplate.


I haven't done any testing yet, putting my loop back together and stuff first I guess.

And the copper sheet I have is "hard" copper. It scratches easily, but bends not so easily. Will probably work as backplate for the vrm:s and stuff. Anyone who has done some plumbing and tried to bend hard copper pipes know the stuff.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pholostan*
> 
> I had fans on my stock heatsink earlier, and that worked okay. Doing waterblocks mostly just for fun. I don't really expect much more performance. The 8350 I have now can do 4.8 GHz stable, and then it needs pretty much the max voltage the board can supply. I had alreay got a Dynatron heatsink, completely forgot about it. Looks like this here:
> Dynatron A48G Low profile Opteron cooler
> It is massive copper, 500 grams of pure metal. I made a copper shim to clear the components in the middle (color is all weird):
> 
> Then put some rivet nuts in the holes in the heatsink, was a bit hard to reach the holes with the tools though. Had to bend the fins.
> 
> But it worked out, with some thermal pad under it, it fit nicely as a backplate.
> 
> 
> I haven't done any testing yet, putting my loop back together and stuff first I guess.
> 
> And the copper sheet I have is "hard" copper. It scratches easily, but bends not so easily. Will probably work as backplate for the vrm:s and stuff. Anyone who has done some plumbing and tried to bend hard copper pipes know the stuff.


I like the Idea, I will be in wait for the results.

I have also wondered if there was a way to actually put water cooling on the backside of the mobo itself, but I think that is overkill


----------



## theamdman

I remember when the club was just a wee little baby! Damn its came far!


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pholostan*
> 
> I had fans on my stock heatsink earlier, and that worked okay. Doing waterblocks mostly just for fun. I don't really expect much more performance. The 8350 I have now can do 4.8 GHz stable, and then it needs pretty much the max voltage the board can supply. I had alreay got a Dynatron heatsink, completely forgot about it. Looks like this here:
> Dynatron A48G Low profile Opteron cooler
> It is massive copper, 500 grams of pure metal. I made a copper shim to clear the components in the middle (color is all weird):
> 
> Then put some rivet nuts in the holes in the heatsink, was a bit hard to reach the holes with the tools though. Had to bend the fins.
> 
> But it worked out, with some thermal pad under it, it fit nicely as a backplate.
> 
> 
> I haven't done any testing yet, putting my loop back together and stuff first I guess.
> 
> And the copper sheet I have is "hard" copper. It scratches easily, but bends not so easily. Will probably work as backplate for the vrm:s and stuff. Anyone who has done some plumbing and tried to bend hard copper pipes know the stuff.


If it's copper it's soft, and when you bolt it down it bends. The stock heatsinks are just fine. CPU cooling is the problem.
Just use Prolimatech AMD Kit ARM-02, also works *with* Noctua coolers and mounting kit NM-A90. Makes a very strong assembly that doesn't rely on mobo rigidity.



Doesn't bend the mobo


----------



## cab2

You can also mount a Thermalright Ultra-120 eXtreme Rev. C



...but you'll have to order the right size bolt or use a mobo standoff as an extension (as I've done here)

A good mount makes plumbing unnecessary.


----------



## cab2

One more with the Noctua NH-U12P SE2


or the Prolimatech Megahalems Rev.B which is what the ARM mounting kit is meant for.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pholostan*
> 
> I had fans on my stock heatsink earlier, and that worked okay. Doing waterblocks mostly just for fun. I don't really expect much more performance. The 8350 I have now can do 4.8 GHz stable, and then it needs pretty much the max voltage the board can supply. I had alreay got a Dynatron heatsink, completely forgot about it. Looks like this here:
> Dynatron A48G Low profile Opteron cooler
> It is massive copper, 500 grams of pure metal. I made a copper shim to clear the components in the middle (color is all weird):
> 
> Then put some rivet nuts in the holes in the heatsink, was a bit hard to reach the holes with the tools though. Had to bend the fins.
> 
> But it worked out, with some thermal pad under it, it fit nicely as a backplate.
> 
> 
> I haven't done any testing yet, putting my loop back together and stuff first I guess.
> 
> And the copper sheet I have is "hard" copper. It scratches easily, but bends not so easily. Will probably work as backplate for the vrm:s and stuff. Anyone who has done some plumbing and tried to bend hard copper pipes know the stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> s.
> 
> I have also wondered if there was a way to actually put water cooling on the backside of the mobo itself, but I think that is overkill
Click to expand...

i have an idea but not been motivated to do it, but not direct as it was done here
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> A good mount makes plumbing unnecessary.


this made me laugh ill take "plumping" over air any day, can be done so much more quietly and visually appeasing wont even goto the fact about that giant slab of metal pulling on your mobo


----------



## wolfwalker

My big slab of metal pulls a lot less than the bigass video card does. I hung the end of it with a ziptie when I got sick of seeing it bending downward.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i have an idea but not been motivated to do it, but not direct as it was done here
> this made me laugh ill take "plumping" over air any day, can be done so much more quietly and visually appeasing wont even goto the fact about that giant slab of metal pulling on your mobo


I have one question what are you VRMs running at. Listed as vcore in AI Suite. I see nothing cooling them in any of these pictures and I am seeing high voltages being tossed around Because of the over clocks.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I only have a good breeze in my case due to a straight front to back airflow pattern and I've never had my vrms get over 65C that I've seen... and apparently, at least according to ai suite, thats a satisfactory temp.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> My big slab of metal pulls a lot less than the bigass video card does. I hung the end of it with a ziptie when I got sick of seeing it bending downward.


hahaha yea right, my cards weigh less then your slab o copper not to mention how they are secured to my case, and secured more with CFX bridges
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i have an idea but not been motivated to do it, but not direct as it was done here
> this made me laugh ill take "plumping" over air any day, can be done so much more quietly and visually appeasing wont even goto the fact about that giant slab of metal pulling on your mobo
> 
> 
> 
> I have one question what are you VRMs running at. Listed as vcore in AI Suite. I see nothing cooling them in any of these pictures and I am seeing high voltages being tossed around Because of the over clocks.
Click to expand...

huh you want temps or my vcore, highest i went on sabberkitty was 1.7v as anything over that and it would just shut down, however i hear the new bios fixes this

my temps never went above 50 with my fan on them on VRMs

but to note, i never cared about vrm temps when using 1.7v. it was a suicide run, i fully expected to destroy my chip/ board or both.


----------



## wolfwalker

Take it FWIW, my HIS 7950 sagged like a mother, I literally hunt a zip tie on the end of it.
No prob with the D14....

That being said I wouldn't bang the thing around, but it's a 50+ pound computer, I put it on wheels since I was sick of sliding it
let alone carrying it. I think the weight thing is over-rated unless it's a computer you actually move around a fair bit.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> hahaha yea right, my cards weigh less then your slab o copper not to mention how they are secured to my case, and secured more with CFX bridges
> huh you want temps or my vcore, highest i went on sabberkitty was 1.7v as anything over that and it would just shut down, however i hear the new bios fixes this
> 
> my temps never went above 50 with my fan on them on VRMs
> 
> but to note, i never cared about vrm temps when using 1.7v. it was a suicide run, i fully expected to destroy my chip/ board or both.


I have an update for this. BIOS 1201 let me do a suicide run on 1.8v thats right 1.8!!!

>< and is still could not even boot into 5.5Ghz my chip is fail
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> Take it FWIW, my HIS 7950 sagged like a mother, I literally hunt a zip tie on the end of it.
> No prob with the D14....
> 
> That being said I wouldn't bang the thing around, but it's a 50+ pound computer, I put it on wheels since I was sick of sliding it
> let alone carrying it. I think the weight thing is over-rated unless it's a computer you actually move around a fair bit.


Odd.. figgured the mounting brackets held the card in place... did you use screws?


----------



## wolfwalker

Screwed in, just a long heavy ass card. It has a metal rib on the spine to help but it's not enough. Think it has to do with the cooler design being less of a box maybe.
Zip tie did the trick though.

I saw a card for sale not long ago that came with a little plastic stand to hold it's rear up.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> Screwed in, just a long heavy ass card. It has a metal rib on the spine to help but it's not enough. Think it has to do with the cooler design being less of a box maybe.
> Zip tie did the trick though.
> 
> I saw a card for sale not long ago that came with a little plastic stand to hold it's rear up.


I had the same problem with my 7950 windforce OC edition... but fixed it without zip tie or prop.... I used a bit of wire that looked remarkably like the normal wiring and tied it from the plastic casing of the card up to my wiring harness in the box... and like your box, mine is way heavy but that's what you get when you build a box with quality components and huge coolers.... and water cooling =*)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> Screwed in, just a long heavy ass card. It has a metal rib on the spine to help but it's not enough. Think it has to do with the cooler design being less of a box maybe.
> Zip tie did the trick though.
> 
> I saw a card for sale not long ago that came with a little plastic stand to hold it's rear up.
> 
> 
> 
> I had the same problem with my 7950 windforce OC edition... but fixed it without zip tie or prop.... I used a bit of wire that looked remarkably like the normal wiring and tied it from the plastic casing of the card up to my wiring harness in the box... and like your box, mine is way heavy but that's what you get when you build a box with quality components and huge coolers.... and water cooling =*)
Click to expand...

if you want it to be invisible as much as possible fishing line works great @!


----------



## Minotaurtoo

...hmm might have to try that next time... however in the mess that is the wires in my case no one will see... I spent 3 hours routing wires, but due to the shear quantity of hardware requiring wiring in my case there was no way to avoid a bit of a chaotic look... I'm sure you've seen my pics on here... its not bad.. but it is enough that no one will notice the wire I used to tie up my card lol. Thats what I get for cramming so much in here and then adding lights to it so that I have that much more wiring


----------



## ITAngel

Anyone here knows were I can find the Serial No. of my motherboard on my motherboard if I don't have the box?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Anyone here knows were I can find the Serial No. of my motherboard on my motherboard if I don't have the box?


Iirc it's on a brown pin extension for USB I think I'll have to double check but it's a sticker on a brown something


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Iirc it's on a brown pin extension for USB I think I'll have to double check but it's a sticker on a brown something


I found a yellow sticker on the SATA port thingy bottom right corner of the motherboard. Not sure if it is that one or not. Had a set numbers of 15 characters. Letter and number combine.

I just got the ASUS software update for WIndows 8 and it showing the serial number on the System information tab XD


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> I found a yellow sticker on the SATA port thingy bottom right corner of the motherboard. Not sure if it is that one or not. Had a set numbers of 15 characters. Letter and number combine.


I think that's it.. I'm not near my computer right now otherwise I'd confirm
should be CB, CC or D1, D2, D3 starting out


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> I think that's it.. I'm not near my computer right now otherwise I'd confirm
> should be CB, CC or D1, D2, D3 starting out


Well in the software it has the number but no letters. hmm... Version: Rev 1.xx


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Well in the software it has the number but no letters. hmm... Version: Rev 1.xx


That's the engineering revision of the circuitry


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> That's the engineering revision of the circuitry


Oh i c, hmmm... Would the serial be under the motherboard or on top? at the worse case I have to pull my motherboard out and see.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Oh i c, hmmm... Would the serial be under the motherboard or on top? at the worse case I have to pull my motherboard out and see.


It is on the upside on on of the plastic connectors.. that first number might be it..


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> It is on the upside on on of the plastic connectors.. that first number might be it..


The one on the yellow tag on the SATA Brown connectors have the following number "001FC600018FD36" but when I try to put that at the registration window from ASUS it comes up with nothing.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> It is on the upside on on of the plastic connectors.. that first number might be it..
> 
> 
> 
> The one on the yellow tag on the SATA Brown connectors have the following number "001FC600018FD36" but when I try to put that at the registration window from ASUS it comes up with nothing.
Click to expand...

comman spots for serial numbers, PCI/PCIe ports ( usually the x16 ), 24 pin power connector.

where i found it on my board.
PCI slot


----------



## darkelixa

Is this supposed to be missing on the mainboard?


----------



## Hardrock

Hi, the Thermal Radar on my 990FX shows 55-60C on PCI-E slot #1 during sustained BF4 sessions. MY GPU is an ASUS R9 280X. Should I be worried about this ? What is a normal PCI-E temp range ??

Here is my rig, Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

i would be willing to bet NB VRM temps are affecting this as you do not have a fan on the vrms or nb


----------



## Hardrock

I have good air flow through the case. If this MOBO requires active VRM or NB cooling why didn't ASUS provide a chipset fan ? I have a fan I could mod to blow on the VRMS if needed. Any ideas on what a "normal" PCI-E Temp is ?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> I have good air flow through the case. If this MOBO requires active VRM or NB cooling why didn't ASUS provide a chipset fan ? I have a fan I could mod to blow on the VRMS if needed. Any ideas on what a "normal" PCI-E Temp is ?


Well since the NB is literally smashed up against the top PCIe x 16 connector.. that would be the root cause

Secondly... Asus does not provide active cooling because it is more expensive and besides there are only like 3 boards in total that actually do have active cooling

A fan on the VRMs will bring your temps drastically down I say try it then look at your PCIe lane and NB temps.. bet it will drop significantly


----------



## Minotaurtoo

a breezy front to back flow in mine reduced temps on the vrms a lot.. before I setup my flow pattern I used AI suite to track the heat... then found that if I put strong enough fans in the front of the case pulling air in and same fans in the back pushing out then it created a nice breeze over the vrms, and in fact the whole board... temps came down nearly 20C from what they were before... I also have one more fan that pulls the hot air from the video card out of the case before it has a chance to heat up the inside too much.


----------



## darkelixa

So its normal for that chip to be missing that I posted up above?

One thing is for sure, my amd 8350 with sabertooth takes 4 times as long to boot as my i5 4670k with gigabyte z87 ud3h


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> So its normal for that chip to be missing that I posted up above?
> 
> One thing is for sure, my amd 8350 with sabertooth takes 4 times as long to boot as my i5 4670k with gigabyte z87 ud3h


That probably is because you don't have the fastest settings in BIOS set to do that. If I set everything right I can boot in less than 10 seconds with my SSD


----------



## By-Tor

Using this Delta fan that's control through thermal radar does a great job at keeping the VRM's cool...

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/de92ffhisp.html

http://s747.photobucket.com/user/Bytor_Photo2112/media/IMG_3010_zps0cb179b4.jpg.html


----------



## darkelixa

Oh ok, so its a chip that was never there when i look on the asus mainboard box??

Oh I have a samsung 840 ssd.


----------



## Hardrock

Yeah There is no chip fan in the Sabertooth box. I modded this fan into my case to blow down on the VRM and the top of the PCIE. Temps seem lower, we will see how it pans out. It actually seems like there is more air flow out of my rear case exhaust fan.


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> 
> 
> Is this supposed to be missing on the mainboard?


Sorry I was confused about what you were asking. I just took a look at my MOBO and that same chip is missing on mine so its prolly okay.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> I have good air flow through the case. If this MOBO requires active VRM or NB cooling why didn't ASUS provide a chipset fan ? I have a fan I could mod to blow on the VRMS if needed. Any ideas on what a "normal" PCI-E Temp is ?


well, id does not need it at default. when you oc you need it, and on most guides anymore that i have seen for any chip it is recommended to put a fan on the vrms if you are ocing
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> So its normal for that chip to be missing that I posted up above?
> 
> One thing is for sure, my amd 8350 with sabertooth takes 4 times as long to boot as my i5 4670k with gigabyte z87 ud3h


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> So its normal for that chip to be missing that I posted up above?
> 
> One thing is for sure, my amd 8350 with sabertooth takes 4 times as long to boot as my i5 4670k with gigabyte z87 ud3h
> 
> 
> 
> That probably is because you don't have the fastest settings in BIOS set to do that. If I set everything right I can boot in less than 10 seconds with my SSD
Click to expand...

this


----------



## Hardrock

Well looks like my temps are not much better even with an extra fan. What VRM and PCI-E temps are you guys seeing ???


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> Well looks like my temps are not much better even with an extra fan. What VRM and PCI-E temps are you guys seeing ???


Your best bet would be to try and get the video card under water. Not sure what video card you have there but its pretty walled in by your Res and pump.Your not releasing any heat from the video card area and created a small convection oven down that way. You might want to check also res above the pump. My PCIE 1 after I put my system under water went buck wild from -10C to 60C. So I dont even pay attention to it. Chances are the 60C is correct but not the temp of the Video card just the PCI-E bus. My VRMS without a fan on it can be anywhere from 60C to 82C full load. With Antech spot cooler nothing above 65C. The Asus Sabertooths VRMS are rated for 110C before shut down.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Your best bet would be to try and get the video card under water. Not sure what video card you have there but its pretty walled in by your Res and pump.Your not releasing any heat from the video card area and created a small convection oven down that way. You might want to check also res above the pump. My PCIE 1 after I put my system under water went buck wild from -10C to 60C. So I dont even pay attention to it. Chances are the 60C is correct but not the temp of the Video card just the PCI-E bus. My VRMS without a fan on it can be anywhere from 60C to 82C full load. With Antech spot cooler nothing above 65C. The *Asus Sabertooths VRMS are rated for 110C before shut down*.


I knew they were stout, but I have to ask where verification of that can be found.. I mean I would love to believe that, but as a system builder I always have to ask... may be credited somewhere else in this thread or even in the documentation that I've just missed... but I hope that is true lol... then all I need is better water cooling for my cpu and whoosh away to 5.0 ghz land 24/7


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I knew they were stout, but I have to ask where verification of that can be found.. I mean I would love to believe that, but as a system builder I always have to ask... may be credited somewhere else in this thread or even in the documentation that I've just missed... but I hope that is true lol... then all I need is better water cooling for my cpu and whoosh away to 5.0 ghz land 24/7


Minotaurtoo
I would have to go looking but I know i have seen reference to the 110C more then once.I looked up Vcore 1 temps Asus Sabertooth 990fx. Its on the internet it must be true.


----------



## Mega Man

if that does not help, i would be willing to bet air circulation is poor


----------



## darkelixa

With my memory settings on bios at auto this is the timings that it puts up for it, is this normal or do i need to buy new ram?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> 
> 
> With my memory settings on bios at auto this is the timings that it puts up for it, is this normal or do i need to buy new ram?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> 
> 
> With my memory settings on bios at auto this is the timings that it puts up for it, is this normal or do i need to buy new ram?


With the settings on auto the answer would be yes. The motherboard is trying to find balance between FSB and multiplier. Ill have to look at my mother board. But if you go into the bios look for DOCP (its an option in one of the tabs) and turn it on. It will allow you to set the ram at 1600(set your ram at 1600 only looks like the max from the screen shot you sent)

Advanced>AI overclock tuner > D.O.C.P
[D.O.C.P.] Allows you to select a DRAM voltage.

Also
Memory Frequency [Auto]

Allows you to set the memory operating frequency. The configuration options: [DDR3-800MHz] [DDR3-1066MHz] [DDR3-1333MHz] [DDR3-1600MHz] [DDR3-1866MHz]*
Selecting a very high memory frequency may cause the system to become unstable! If this happens revert to default settings.


----------



## darkelixa

I manually changed the settings from 11-11-11-28 to 9-9-9-24 then reset back to auto and bam



I fear if i run it at 1600 its going to be unstable as the xmp on the ram for 2 of the sticks is 1.5v and the other 2 are 1.65v. When I had extra ram installed they installed 1.65v xmp ram not 1.5v. Does this matter


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I knew they were stout, but I have to ask where verification of that can be found.. I mean I would love to believe that, but as a system builder I always have to ask... may be credited somewhere else in this thread or even in the documentation that I've just missed... but I hope that is true lol... then all I need is better water cooling for my cpu and whoosh away to 5.0 ghz land 24/7


Minotaurtoo

Here goes a link for the intel Sabertooth. The person states they ran the VRMS at 100C for an extended period of time. I do think they would throttle the CPU at 90C. But I think the VCORE1 reading is made up from the VRMS and the CPU Heat output considering they are so close to each other.

https://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?board_id=1&model=Sabertooth+P67&id=20111112040657008&page=1&SLanguage=en-us


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> I manually changed the settings from 11-11-11-28 to 9-9-9-24 then reset back to auto and bam
> 
> 
> 
> I fear if i run it at 1600 its going to be unstable as the xmp on the ram for 2 of the sticks is 1.5v and the other 2 are 1.65v. When I had extra ram installed they installed 1.65v xmp ram not 1.5v. Does this matter


Okay didnt know what you had running thought you were going for the 1600. With the configuration above you will have a hard time hitting the 1600 If at all. Thanks


----------



## darkelixa

I installed the ram into the correct dimms didnt i?

I have two pair in 1,2
3,4

They are on the board pic, 2 dims in the white slots and two in the black?

Thats right isnt it?

Does that mean I should just buy 8 GB of new ram, or just take 8 gb out?


----------



## HerrisDevio

just a ? for all of you ive finaly decides to drop the money on a sabertooth just curius about your experiunces with it


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> I installed the ram into the correct dimms didnt i?
> 
> I have two pair in 1,2
> 3,4
> 
> They are on the board pic, 2 dims in the white slots and two in the black?
> 
> Thats right isnt it?
> 
> Does that mean I should just buy 8 GB of new ram, or just take 8 gb out?


You got the ram right . The only time the color slots apply is when you have just 2 sticks.

With 4 sticks of any ram and the memory controller on the CPUs you will have a hard time hitting the full 1600 with any combination of ram. It is documented here and other places. If you want to try to take it up to 1600 you can the worse that happens is you get a bad overclock and have to go into the bios and set it back to default.

http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php?topic=2515.0;wap2


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HerrisDevio*
> 
> just a ? for all of you ive finaly decides to drop the money on a sabertooth just curius about your experiunces with it


I have had my Sabertooth for about 11 months. Knock on wood I have not had any problems with it. I have heard of people getting bad boards from time to time. I would rate the board about a 9 to a 10. Highly suggested.


----------



## Pholostan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> I have an update for this. BIOS 1201 let me do a suicide run on 1.8v thats right 1.8!!!


Interesting, my board seems to boot with a "CPU Voltage too high" error when I try about 1.6 volt. Haven't tried Bios verson 1201 though. Running the latest now, 2103. Seems okay, no problems with resuming from sleep in Windows 8. *Nope*, se #post_21323410

Got my loop back together, put a passive heatsink on the backplate for the VRM:s. Gets hot with high Vcore, over 40 C when I did a quick testing at 4.8 GHz and 1.55 Volt. My chip will not do 5 GHz stable :-/
Seems to work alright so far anyway.

The heatsink is a Akasa HDD cooler, just the right size.

Yeah, I'll never be able to earn a living as a photographer, but you get the idea.


----------



## valid8

*RAID 0 Advice*

Hi everyone, I'm just about ready and set to configure my very first RAID 0 array on my new Sabertooth 990FX. The raid will be a RAID 0 type and will be on 2 WD 250GB Skorpio HDDs...which I will primarily use for installing my games on. Now before doing this I have already taken the time to update AHCI and RAID drivers from ASUS's support page. The thing that concerns me so far is the RAID ROM: http://i.imgur.com/U0oLdII.jpg ...*Legacy ROM or UEFI DRIVER?*...and what's the difference? And also for gaming usage what Strip Size should I use?

You can see my rig setup *here*

My drives are setup as follows: http://i.imgur.com/TVQn3mq.jpg ...with Samsung SSD as system (boot) drive

And all of my drives are MBR: http://i.imgur.com/yZUs0EI.jpg

Thx


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valid8*
> 
> *RAID 0 Advice*
> 
> Hi everyone, I'm just about ready and set to configure my very first RAID 0 array on my new Sabertooth 990FX. The raid will be a RAID 0 type and will be on 2 WD 250GB Skorpio HDDs...which I will primarily use for installing my games on. Now before doing this I have already taken the time to update AHCI and RAID drivers from ASUS's support page. The thing that concerns me so far is the RAID ROM: http://i.imgur.com/U0oLdII.jpg ...*Legacy ROM or UEFI DRIVER?*...and what's the difference? And also for gaming usage what Strip Size should I use?
> 
> You can see my rig setup *here*
> 
> My drives are setup as follows: http://i.imgur.com/TVQn3mq.jpg ...with Samsung SSD as system (boot) drive
> 
> And all of my drives are MBR: http://i.imgur.com/yZUs0EI.jpg
> 
> Thx


Check these out second one is full explanation.









Raid stripping explained
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RAID

Raid Stripping fully explained with diagrams
http://www.thegeekstuff.com/2010/08/raid-levels-tutorial/


----------



## darkelixa

Fantastic,was driving me crazy thinking I installed the ram into the wrong slots and you saved me reinstalling my ram


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pholostan*
> 
> Interesting, my board seems to boot with a "CPU Voltage too high" error when I try about 1.6 volt. Haven't tried Bios verson 1201 though. Running the latest now, 2103. Seems okay, no problems with resuming from sleep in Windows 8.
> 
> Got my loop back together, put a passive heatsink on the backplate for the VRM:s. Gets hot with high Vcore, over 40 C when I did a quick testing at 4.8 GHz and 1.55 Volt. My chip will not do 5 GHz stable :-/
> Seems to work alright so far anyway.
> 
> The heatsink is a Akasa HDD cooler, just the right size.
> 
> Yeah, I'll never be able to earn a living as a photographer, but you get the idea.


Yeah I think that started happening in bios 1503


----------



## darkelixa

Im using Bios 1201 super smooth. My sabertooth 990fx rv2 is super smooth to use,have flashed it a million times and still working perfectly, doesnt throttle my cpu either







The only issue i have with it is when i shut the pc down and the speakers are turned up loud it will emmit a static sound which i will fix by buying a sound card


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Im using Bios 1201 super smooth. My sabertooth 990fx rv2 is super smooth to use,have flashed it a million times and still working perfectly, doesnt throttle my cpu either
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only issue i have with it is when i shut the pc down and the speakers are turned up loud it will emmit a static sound which i will fix by buying a sound card


You know I didn't notice it then last week it happened.. do you by chance have a fsb overclock?


----------



## darkelixa

I have all of my settings currently at stock


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> comman spots for serial numbers, PCI/PCIe ports ( usually the x16 ), 24 pin power connector.
> 
> where i found it on my board.
> PCI slot


Thanks mate! I will look there.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HerrisDevio*
> 
> just a ? for all of you ive finaly decides to drop the money on a sabertooth just curius about your experiunces with it


one of the best ocing boards out there
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> I installed the ram into the correct dimms didnt i?
> 
> I have two pair in 1,2
> 3,4
> 
> They are on the board pic, 2 dims in the white slots and two in the black?
> 
> Thats right isnt it?
> 
> Does that mean I should just buy 8 GB of new ram, or just take 8 gb out?
> 
> 
> 
> You got the ram right . The only time the color slots apply is when you have just 2 sticks.
> 
> With 4 sticks of any ram and the memory controller on the CPUs you will have a hard time hitting the full 1600 with any combination of ram. It is documented here and other places. If you want to try to take it up to 1600 you can the worse that happens is you get a bad overclock and have to go into the bios and set it back to default.
> 
> http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php?topic=2515.0;wap2
Click to expand...

huh no

put matched ram in matched slots 1&3 2&4
however THERE IS NO GUARANTEE they will work ok together usually your ok, but not always you will need to set highest voltage of the 2 ram sticks and highest timings as well.

also thy wont you hit 1600? the cpu is rated for four sticks at 1600 2 @ 1866, and can usually do much more. IF your ram is ok together

should you buy a new set, probably it is never advised to mix ram sets

also to note just because they wont work together ( if this is the case ) does not mean either set is faulty they may not work together
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pholostan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> I have an update for this. BIOS 1201 let me do a suicide run on 1.8v thats right 1.8!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting, my board seems to boot with a "CPU Voltage too high" error when I try about 1.6 volt. Haven't tried Bios verson 1201 though. Running the latest now, 2103. Seems okay, no problems with resuming from sleep in Windows 8.
> 
> Got my loop back together, put a passive heatsink on the backplate for the VRM:s. Gets hot with high Vcore, over 40 C when I did a quick testing at 4.8 GHz and 1.55 Volt. My chip will not do 5 GHz stable :-/
> Seems to work alright so far anyway.
> 
> The heatsink is a Akasa HDD cooler, just the right size.
> 
> Yeah, I'll never be able to earn a living as a photographer, but you get the idea.
Click to expand...

goto bios monitoring disable vcore iirc
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valid8*
> 
> *RAID 0 Advice*
> 
> Hi everyone, I'm just about ready and set to configure my very first RAID 0 array on my new Sabertooth 990FX. The raid will be a RAID 0 type and will be on 2 WD 250GB Skorpio HDDs...which I will primarily use for installing my games on. Now before doing this I have already taken the time to update AHCI and RAID drivers from ASUS's support page. The thing that concerns me so far is the RAID ROM: http://i.imgur.com/U0oLdII.jpg ...*Legacy ROM or UEFI DRIVER?*...and what's the difference? And also for gaming usage what Strip Size should I use?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> You can see my rig setup *here*
> 
> My drives are setup as follows: http://i.imgur.com/TVQn3mq.jpg ...with Samsung SSD as system (boot) drive
> 
> And all of my drives are MBR: http://i.imgur.com/yZUs0EI.jpg
> 
> 
> Thx


no idea about the rest but uefi = newer and for fast boot and legacy takes longer too boot ( simple explanation )


----------



## darkelixa

I have two ram installed into a2,b2 and then two into a1,b1, is that not right?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> I have two ram installed into a2,b2 and then two into a1,b1, is that not right?


I hate the number letter thing lol.. make sure the pair is installed in the match color


----------



## darkelixa

I took two of the ram sticks out, the 1.65v ones and have two 1.5v ones, corsair low profile vengance installed, both same timmings 9-9-9-24 1.5v
and they are installed in a2 b2 which is as it says to in the manual. So i should just leave it at the 8gb and call it a day?


----------



## Mega Man

it is up to you... and the silicone lottery


----------



## darkelixa

Its 8gb of ram that i bought in a 4gb x2 1.5V set, so thats not fine? How is there a silicone lottery with ram?

The second set is a 1.65v, 4gb x2 set


----------



## valid8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no idea about the rest but uefi = newer and for fast boot and legacy takes longer too boot ( simple explanation )


Yeah I read something about the fast boot thing but it's pretty much irrelevant since i use SSD to boot which brings me to the question: does RAID make me lose TRIM on my SSD even if it's not part of the RAID Volume?


----------



## Mega Man

dont know but fast boot is still faster then ssd, it effects post times

i know nothing about raid i dont use it


----------



## darkelixa

Is the sabertooth meant to run core parking at idle and during some games, i use balanced power profile and even with high performance profile in crysis 3 some of the cores are still parked, i believe no7, is that just because games do not use all the cores so the board just leaves them turned off?


----------



## valid8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> 
> 
> Is the sabertooth meant to run core parking at idle and during some games, i use balanced power profile and even with high performance profile in crysis 3 some of the cores are still parked, i believe no7, is that just because games do not use all the cores so the board just leaves them turned off?


I had similar uncertainty weeks back, but in my case I was testing/benchmarking BF4 performance and, although Resource Monitor clearly showed me no cores were parked, I double-checked with a nice app called UnparkCPU and found out I indeed had 2 cores parked...so I unparked them. My advice: download *UnparkCPU* (it's free, you can find it on google), run/install it, and click the "Check Status" button...if you see anything parked just click "Unpark All" and you're done; no reason to keep an energy saving profile on a octa-core CPU while gaming. If you want to know more on core parking and why windows use it look here: http://www.tweakhound.com/2013/07/15/bad-tweak-core-parking/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valid8*
> 
> Yeah I read something about the fast boot thing but it's pretty much irrelevant since i use SSD to boot which brings me to the question: *does RAID make me lose TRIM on my SSD even if it's not part of the RAID Volume?*


Up


----------



## Pholostan

Aaargh, the new bios, 2103, still have strange issues with resuming from sleep. All frequency settings is back to stock after resuming from sleep. APM is re-enabled and so is Turbo Core. All voltage offsets are still in effect. What the heck? How is this even possible? A reboot hangs the system, and a cold start after thats halts at post with a "Overclock failed" error. Still on Windows 8, just like last time. I guess I'm downgrading my bios... *again*...









Yeah, I can set my frequency setting to what I want in Asus AI Suite, but I need AMDmsrTweaker to turn off Turbo Core and APM again. Then a reboot succeeds.

*Update:* I had a nagging suspicion that the new BIOS:es are tailored to something very specific in windows 8.*1*. Guess what, the problems with resuming from sleep seems to have gone away after (the stupid long and time consuming) update to .1. Go figure.

*Update2:* Seems like it is back to not working after a couple of boots. Then it seems to work again. This is getting on my nerves. Why am I running this thing anyway...


----------



## darkelixa

Kingston KHX1600C9D3B1K2/8GX

Is this a good ram replacement?

http://ijk.com.au/branch/ijk/product_info.php?cPath=478_449&products_id=132662

8GB(4G x 2) Kit HyperX Blue 1600Mhz DDR3 9-11-9-27 @ 1.65v XMP RAM


----------



## Cobra26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almstsobur*
> 
> Koolance 100mm water block with 140mm plate adapter, installed it last night. Works great! The stock ceramic has 3 screws to take the Mosfets side (green section) off to fit the water cooler. you just have to ever so lightly bend the heatpipe to the right a little and the black section still covers the chokes nicely.
> 
> http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=736
> http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=737
> 
> I can take a pic of it installed if anyone is interested.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almstsobur*
> 
> kinda crappy pics, hard to get in there with a camera phone. gives you the idea though.


Hi all,

I want to use this same setup for my vrm's have ordered the fx-9590 and its in my possession now still need to order the Asus Sabertooth 990fx R2.0.
The pics from above tell me its a first generation sabertooth ie Asus Sabertooth 990fx. Like in the description i quote:

"The stock ceramic has 3 screws to take the Mosfets side (green section) off to fit the water cooler"

Instead of the green section its now a brown section for the R2.0 do they both use the exact same heat sink? Meaning i can remove the brown section from the 2.0 heatsink in order to make room for the Koolance waterblock. Is it easy to bend the heatpipe?

This would be a great solution if one has concerns with the VRM.

One last question is there a aftermarket NB cooler for the sabertooth 990fx R2.0?
I could leave it just like in the pics and add a fan on top of the NB heatsink, not really interested in yet another waterblock for the NB this adds up in costs and restriction and heat out put for my rad.

Please help,
Thanks in advance


----------



## almstsobur

I'm not sure why I was so hard on myself about those pictures; that was excellent photography! Anyway, sorry I've never seen the rev 2 in person so I can't comment on the HS makeup. But, I can tell you the heatpipe is very easy to bend, no tools required, just a little bend by hand. Good luck!


----------



## Cobra26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almstsobur*
> 
> I'm not sure why I was so hard on myself about those pictures; that was excellent photography! Anyway, sorry I've never seen the rev 2 in person so I can't comment on the HS makeup. But, I can tell you the heatpipe is very easy to bend, no tools required, just a little bend by hand. Good luck!


Thanks for the quick reply









i did some digging and it seems the first sabertooth heatsink is the same as the r2.0 so it seems...

Some last couple of questions:

Does the heatpipe interfere with any components ie touching dont want to have any short circuit due to the different position of the heatpipe after bending...

Is your cpu running at stock or overclocked? If so what OC do you have and what are your temps for both the cpu and VRM's ie idle and gaming or @ load...

Thanks in advance


----------



## almstsobur

Yes, my CPU is way overclocked. Search my posts, I run at 4.8 daily but I was able to benckmark at 5GHZ. I had to cool the vrm to reach stable long-term full load benchmarks above 4.7 without throttling. The heat pipe is well away from anything that will short. I'm not sure what the temps are anymore .... Old posts should have that info. I've finally decided to retire this build next week. Going to use the same big cooling setup on a 4770k that's on it's way. But to this day it's still runs flawlessly at 4.8 everyday.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almstsobur*
> 
> Yes, my CPU is way overclocked. Search my posts, I run at 4.8 daily but I was able to benckmark at 5GHZ. I had to cool the vrm to reach stable long-term full load benchmarks above 4.7 without throttling. The heat pipe is well away from anything that will short. I'm not sure what the temps are anymore .... Old posts should have that info. I've finally decided to retire this build next week. Going to use the same big cooling setup on a 4770k that's on it's way. But to this day it's still runs flawlessly at 4.8 everyday.


without water on vrms i hit 5.55ghz for benching...


----------



## almstsobur

Same chip same board? If so, I'll bet you $300 you are throttling after a minute or so, take a quick video ;-)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almstsobur*
> 
> Same chip same board? If so, I'll bet you $300 you are throttling after a minute or so, take a quick video ;-)


heck no i would have to disassemble everything but no it did not throttle. and i had #2 in hwbot prime for a long time then ppl started using l2n on it with 83xx and core 2 duos

http://hwbot.org/benchmark/hwbot_prime/

i did some 3dmark11s too but i dont remember where the links are.

did it throttle no.

you would be amazed how good that heatsink (vrm) is with a good fan on it ( i have an old 775 coolermaster heatsink fan that is like 5k rpm and amazing static pressure ) i dont think they ever went above 60c ( vrms ) my temps were high on cpu, but i refused to check as they were suicide runs and i know they never hit 90c as it would of shut down, i was pushing 1.7v ( highest you could on this board at the time ) the new bios were not out yet. to this day the saberkitty is one of my fav boards.

if you shut off apm and cnq you dont throttle you do reach ~ 90c and it will shut down on thermals !


----------



## Cobra26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almstsobur*
> 
> Yes, my CPU is way overclocked. Search my posts, I run at 4.8 daily but I was able to benckmark at 5GHZ. I had to cool the vrm to reach stable long-term full load benchmarks above 4.7 without throttling. The heat pipe is well away from anything that will short. I'm not sure what the temps are anymore .... Old posts should have that info. I've finally decided to retire this build next week. Going to use the same big cooling setup on a 4770k that's on it's way. But to this day it's still runs flawlessly at 4.8 everyday.


Thank you so much for the info provided and il check your posts to find more information, i think i have all the info if i go for watercooling the vrm.
Its a good thing you gave info about your overclocked cpu that way i have something to compare with ie the fx-9590 which runs at 4.7ghz and 5ghz with turbo the 220watt tdp is imo the same as an overclocked fx-8350 at the same speeds (oc). Since i dont like fiddling with the bios settings i opted for the fx-9590.

Thanks again.


----------



## Cobra26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> heck no i would have to disassemble everything but no it did not throttle. and i had #2 in hwbot prime for a long time then ppl started using l2n on it with 83xx and core 2 duos
> 
> http://hwbot.org/benchmark/hwbot_prime/
> 
> i did some 3dmark11s too but i dont remember where the links are.
> 
> did it throttle no.
> 
> you would be amazed how good that heatsink (vrm) is with a good fan on it ( i have an old 775 coolermaster heatsink fan that is like 5k rpm and amazing static pressure ) i dont think they ever went above 60c ( vrms ) my temps were high on cpu, but i refused to check as they were suicide runs and i know they never hit 90c as it would of shut down, i was pushing 1.7v ( highest you could on this board at the time ) the new bios were not out yet. to this day the saberkitty is one of my fav boards.
> 
> if you shut off apm and cnq you dont throttle you do reach ~ 90c and it will shut down on thermals !


Would you recommend placing three 40mm fans (3800rpm) on top of the vrm heatsink or is this insufficient? Will be turning of turbo and enable all power savings in bios.

These are the fans i wanted to use (now im looking at watercooling the vrm)

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16389/fan-1014/Noiseblocker_NB-BlackSilentPro_PM-2_40mm_x_20mm_Ultra_Silent_Fan_-_3800_RPM.html?tl=c435s1094b160

I see you using high static 5k rpm so what do you think using the above three fan setup?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra26*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> heck no i would have to disassemble everything but no it did not throttle. and i had #2 in hwbot prime for a long time then ppl started using l2n on it with 83xx and core 2 duos
> 
> http://hwbot.org/benchmark/hwbot_prime/
> 
> i did some 3dmark11s too but i dont remember where the links are.
> 
> did it throttle no.
> 
> you would be amazed how good that heatsink (vrm) is with a good fan on it ( i have an old 775 coolermaster heatsink fan that is like 5k rpm and amazing static pressure ) i dont think they ever went above 60c ( vrms ) my temps were high on cpu, but i refused to check as they were suicide runs and i know they never hit 90c as it would of shut down, i was pushing 1.7v ( highest you could on this board at the time ) the new bios were not out yet. to this day the saberkitty is one of my fav boards.
> 
> if you shut off apm and cnq you dont throttle you do reach ~ 90c and it will shut down on thermals !
> 
> 
> 
> Would you recommend placing three 40mm fans (3800rpm) on top of the vrm heatsink or is this insufficient? Will be turning of turbo and enable all power savings in bios.
> 
> These are the fans i wanted to use (now im looking at watercooling the vrm)
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16389/fan-1014/Noiseblocker_NB-BlackSilentPro_PM-2_40mm_x_20mm_Ultra_Silent_Fan_-_3800_RPM.html?tl=c435s1094b160
> 
> I see you using high static 5k rpm so what do you think using the above three fan setup?
> 
> Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

np i just used a fan i had lying around cause i am cheap [email protected] i know ppl who use 2x40mm fans and they work fine. i would not recommend blowing down on vrms, i recommend blowing into the vrm from facing you to facing the mobo (screws, tape, zipties, wedge it in place, set it on gpu, what ever works ) i never heard of them doing such insane ocs though so no guarantees on that. but they work just fine @ ~ 5ghz


----------



## darkelixa

Is core parking a setting really worth worrying about? It seems to happen in every game I play , even crysis 3


----------



## Tater00nuts

I play Battlefield 4 and had 4 out of 8 cores parked and was only getting 25-30 FPS. Unparked them and now I get 50-60 FPS. I would say it makes a difference, at least in that game.


----------



## drkidd22

So I got a SABERTOOTH 990FX/GEN3 R2.0 with some Crucial Ballistix 8GB (2 x 4GB). It's all been working great so far. So Newegg had a deal for the Crucial Ballistix 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 and I bought one stick to have a total of 3. In which slot/channel should I install this memory stick? Any down sides of using 3 sticks?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drkidd22*
> 
> So I got a SABERTOOTH 990FX/GEN3 R2.0 with some Crucial Ballistix 8GB (2 x 4GB). It's all been working great so far. So Newegg had a deal for the Crucial Ballistix 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 and I bought one stick to have a total of 3. In which slot/channel should I install this memory stick? Any down sides of using 3 sticks?


The fist 3 channels...

The downside is you won't utilize dual channel efficiently

Also those are good sets you might be able to oc them to 2400 cas 9


----------



## drkidd22

After reading the manual memory secction it seems that it will use dual channel for the 2 4GB modules and the single channel for the single 8GB module. Can anyone confirm this?


----------



## Cobra26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almstsobur*
> 
> Yes, my CPU is way overclocked. Search my posts, I run at 4.8 daily but I was able to benckmark at 5GHZ. I had to cool the vrm to reach stable long-term full load benchmarks above 4.7 without throttling. The heat pipe is well away from anything that will short. I'm not sure what the temps are anymore .... Old posts should have that info. I've finally decided to retire this build next week. Going to use the same big cooling setup on a 4770k that's on it's way. But to this day it's still runs flawlessly at 4.8 everyday.


I forgot to ask regarding the heatpipe and your heatsink that covers the chokes.

Did you applied any thermal tape on the chokes as to let the heatpipe rest on the thermal tape and then the heatsink?

And how did you attach the heatsink on the chokes?

With lots of full cover waterblocks for the mb they tend NOT to cool the chokes. As mentioned a couple of times on this thread when removing the heatsink that "hovers" above the chokes it does not touch it meaning....do they actually get any cooling?

Thanks in advance


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drkidd22*
> 
> After reading the manual memory secction it seems that it will use dual channel for the 2 4GB modules and the single channel for the single 8GB module. Can anyone confirm this?


yes this as the dual channel is based on the channel options.. If possible pick up another stick but what they hey still worth it you just don't get the full usage


----------



## darkelixa

Pretty annoying I have to buy a soundcard to fix the shutdown sound from onboard audio


----------



## Mega Man

simple solution. dont shut down


----------



## darkelixa

Then I would use a ton of power lol


----------



## Mega Man

not really


----------



## darkelixa

I dont think the pc would work that great if I left it on all day in the 40 degree heat here in aus lol


----------



## Mega Man

that would depend on your cooling setup


----------



## darkelixa

NH-C12P SE14 cpu cooler, case has two 120mm fans at the front and two 120 mm fans to exhast


----------



## Mega Man

yea then i can see why you want to shut it off....


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea then i can see why you want to shut it off....


Just reading the last few posts made me lol for some reason

I'm starting to have the same issue.. I'm going to play around with it when I get a chance 5 days from now


----------



## almstsobur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra26*
> 
> I forgot to ask regarding the heatpipe and your heatsink that covers the chokes.
> 
> Did you applied any thermal tape on the chokes as to let the heatpipe rest on the thermal tape and then the heatsink?
> 
> And how did you attach the heatsink on the chokes?
> 
> With lots of full cover waterblocks for the mb they tend NOT to cool the chokes. As mentioned a couple of times on this thread when removing the heatsink that "hovers" above the chokes it does not touch it meaning....do they actually get any cooling?
> 
> Thanks in advance


the side of the water block is up against the chokes, the bottom is on thermal tape over the VRM's I used standoff's that came with the waterblock to mount. BTW, same cooling setup and I'm at 4.7 so far on the 4770k. believe it or not, the AMD CPU draws a lot more power, but the Haswell puts out a lot more heat.


----------



## mrscientist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pholostan*
> 
> Aaargh, the new bios, 2103, still have strange issues with resuming from sleep. All frequency settings is back to stock after resuming from sleep. APM is re-enabled and so is Turbo Core. All voltage offsets are still in effect. What the heck? How is this even possible? A reboot hangs the system, and a cold start after thats halts at post with a "Overclock failed" error. Still on Windows 8, just like last time. I guess I'm downgrading my bios... *again*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I can set my frequency setting to what I want in Asus AI Suite, but I need AMDmsrTweaker to turn off Turbo Core and APM again. Then a reboot succeeds.
> 
> *Update:* I had a nagging suspicion that the new BIOS:es are tailored to something very specific in windows 8.*1*. Guess what, the problems with resuming from sleep seems to have gone away after (the stupid long and time consuming) update to .1. Go figure.
> 
> *Update2:* Seems like it is back to not working after a couple of boots. Then it seems to work again. This is getting on my nerves. Why am I running this thing anyway...


hi, i'm having the same problem, albeit with a m5a97, same bios. have you figured out a solution yet? what was the last bios you used where you could resume with your oc? i don't remember with what bios it last worked correctly for me.


----------



## punk2k6

New Bios 2104 released today


----------



## yoyo711

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *punk2k6*
> 
> New Bios 2104 released today


I only see 1604 version on ASUS web tho...


----------



## Tater00nuts

1604 is the current BOIS for original Sabertooth 990FX boards, 2104 is for the R2.0


----------



## yoyo711

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tater00nuts*
> 
> 1604 is the current BOIS for original Sabertooth 990FX boards, 2104 is for the R2.0


Thanks + Rap









Just got the Sabertooth 990fx R2.0 and FX 8320 Pushing at 4.736


----------



## Pholostan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrscientist*
> 
> hi, i'm having the same problem, albeit with a m5a97, same bios. have you figured out a solution yet? what was the last bios you used where you could resume with your oc? i don't remember with what bios it last worked correctly for me.


I tried all settings I could think of, both in BIOS and Windows and no dice. I mailed Asus support, got an answer that they don't care. Flashed 1903 BIOS again on my Sabertooth 2.0, and all the problems are gone.


----------



## mrscientist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pholostan*
> 
> I tried all settings I could think of, both in BIOS and Windows and no dice. I mailed Asus support, got an answer that they don't care. Flashed 1903 BIOS again on my Sabertooth 2.0, and all the problems are gone.


thanks, 1903 on my m5a97 seems to keep the oc active after resuming from sleep like on the sabertooth.


----------



## Falmod

Hey guys. Does anyone know if the serial number for my sabertooth is anywhere on the board itself as I need to RMA and lost the box in a house fire. Thanks


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> Hey guys. Does anyone know if the serial number for my sabertooth is anywhere on the board itself as I need to RMA and lost the box in a house fire. Thanks


It's the tag on the 24 pin power connector


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> It's the tag on the 24 pin power connector


Mine is on the PCI slot.


----------



## chiznitz

Hey all. Anyone have issues getting more than one video card working on this board? When I plug a card alone into the 3rd 16x slot the computer wont post. When I use the first slot it works fine. I've also tried using a riser cable in 4th slot and it doesn't work. A riser cable in 2nd slot works...

so...

For 2 cards.

1st slot works
2nd slot works

3/4th slot never recognize video card..

Any idea why those lanes aren't firing up for me?


----------



## Jflisk

Could you please define a riser cable. Otherwise sounds like the PCI-E slot might be bad. Have you tried putting one card in the machine in one of the lower PCI-E slots and see what happens. Also when you are installing cards are you checking catalyst control center(AMD) or nvidias equivalent and seeing how many monitors you have. If you see 6 or more monitors(without sli or xfire strap) then both video cards are working. What kind of video cards are you trying to install that would help a little. Do your video cards require power be provided thru 6 or 8 pin power connectors and are they connected. Thanks


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Could you please define a riser cable. Otherwise sounds like the PCI-E slot might be bad. Have you tried putting one card in the machine in one of the lower PCI-E slots and see what happens. Also when you are installing cards are you checking catalyst control center(AMD) or nvidias equivalent and seeing how many monitors you have. If you see 6 or more monitors(without sli or xfire strap) then both video cards are working. What kind of video cards are you trying to install that would help a little. Do your video cards require power be provided thru 6 or 8 pin power connectors and are they connected. Thanks


Riser cable just extends the slot so you can put the card somewhere other than right at the slot. This helps seperate your cards for cooling.

I've tried 3 different cards in the 2 lower slots, none of them will work no matter the configuration. (The lower 2 slots)

The upper 2 slots work with all cards in any configuration.

Currently one card is using 8+8, my other cards only require 8+6 and thats what i'm using. It's not a power issue etc as I was just running a sabertooth with 3 cards but it was finicky due to one of the pieces on the back of the socket had come unsoldered so I rma'd it for this board.

This is not a windows issue. I can run atiflash -i from a USB boot and it only shows the 1 card in the top slot.

Placing just 1 card in the machine but using the lower 2 slots, the machine will not post.


----------



## Jflisk

I thought thats what you meant by riser cable just checking. Is your board still under warranty. Hate to say it sounds like bad PCI-E Slots. No read no post sounds like a short in the slot or slots. If you want to get crazy with it you can pull the board and check the slots. 2 of the pins might be over lapping in the PCI-E of the board. When you push the card in its crossing 2. Thanks


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I thought thats what you meant by riser cable just checking. Is your board still under warranty. Hate to say it sounds like bad PCI-E Slots. No read no post sounds like a short in the slot or slots. If you want to get crazy with it you can pull the board and check the slots. 2 of the pins might be over lapping in the PCI-E of the board. When you push the card in its crossing 2. Thanks


I'll check it out. It's my 2nd open box try from newegg, at this point I guess I should just buy the real board and be done with it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I thought thats what you meant by riser cable just checking. Is your board still under warranty. Hate to say it sounds like bad PCI-E Slots. No read no post sounds like a short in the slot or slots. If you want to get crazy with it you can pull the board and check the slots. 2 of the pins might be over lapping in the PCI-E of the board. When you push the card in its crossing 2. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> I'll check it out. It's my 2nd open box try from newegg, at this point I guess I should just buy the real board and be done with it.
Click to expand...

1 are you sure the risers are good?

2 are you sure the cards are good?

3 long shot but did you plug in the 4 pin molex?


----------



## HerrisDevio

its official guys got my sabertooth today will be installing it tonight and get the verification to get it official


----------



## Mega Man

welcome and congrats !


----------



## HerrisDevio

well i got it installed and working but getting weird boot times but once i get into windows runs like a dream


----------



## Mega Man

for fast boot you need to make sure you format it correctly ( from uefi device, to uefi device, make sure it is set ( sata ) to ahci ( spelling ) ect some times you have to reformat [email protected]

also to note ai suite always significantly made boot/ shutdown times much longer in bother win8/8.1 &win7 !

supposedly @ rog there is a utility from raja ( iirc ) that will get rid of all the extras left after uninstall,

besides that only way i know how is fresh format or restore to before you installed ai suite


----------



## darkelixa

With windows 8.1 and the Asus sabertooth 990fx rv2 it does not have any chipset drivers as previous versions of windows did, eg windows 7 or 8. Are these drivers really needed? Still using the standard Microsoft AHCI driver until Amd release a 8.1 certified driver if it is needed


----------



## Mega Man

generally included in catalyst


----------



## darkelixa

Its not thou


----------



## Mega Man

http://support.amd.com/en-us/download/chipset?os=Windows%207%20-%2064


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Has anyone here just had their audio stop working.. I know that my speakers are good, Windows reports that there is audio going however I am not getting any audio out of my speakers plugged in to the onboard.. I have even tried connecting the front audio port and trying that with no go

I have uninstalled and reinstalled all three sets of drivers from asus
uninstalled an reinstalled nVidia drivers (was using them for HDMI sound to my TV)
I have manually removed the drivers from windows and manually installed the.. still with no go

Nothing in the BIOS has changed
I did re-do my computer removing everything.. However I do think that it was all good when I put it back together.

Any suggestions?


----------



## By-Tor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Has anyone here just had their audio stop working.. I know that my speakers are good, Windows reports that there is audio going however I am not getting any audio out of my speakers plugged in to the onboard.. I have even tried connecting the front audio port and trying that with no go
> 
> I have uninstalled and reinstalled all three sets of drivers from asus
> uninstalled an reinstalled nVidia drivers (was using them for HDMI sound to my TV)
> I have manually removed the drivers from windows and manually installed the.. still with no go
> 
> Nothing in the BIOS has changed
> I did re-do my computer removing everything.. However I do think that it was all good when I put it back together.
> 
> Any suggestions?


Mine stopped working and I couldn't get it back no matter what I did and ended up using a USB sound card. I reinstalled windows shortly after this for other reasons and the onboard sound was working again.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Mine stopped working and I couldn't get it back no matter what I did and ended up using a USB sound card. I reinstalled windows shortly after this for other reasons and the onboard sound was working again.


Thank you for that information.. I also read that flashing the BIOS had helped someone else.. Although both I am reluctant to do because.. well Im just lazy haha


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Has anyone here just had their audio stop working.. I know that my speakers are good, Windows reports that there is audio going however I am not getting any audio out of my speakers plugged in to the onboard.. I have even tried connecting the front audio port and trying that with no go
> 
> I have uninstalled and reinstalled all three sets of drivers from asus
> uninstalled an reinstalled nVidia drivers (was using them for HDMI sound to my TV)
> I have manually removed the drivers from windows and manually installed the.. still with no go
> 
> Nothing in the BIOS has changed
> I did re-do my computer removing everything.. However I do think that it was all good when I put it back together.
> 
> Any suggestions?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *By-Tor*
> 
> Mine stopped working and I couldn't get it back no matter what I did and ended up using a USB sound card. I reinstalled windows shortly after this for other reasons and the onboard sound was working again.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for that information.. I also read that flashing the BIOS had helped someone else.. Although both I am reluctant to do because.. well Im just lazy haha
Click to expand...

i did and i need to warranty it because of it


----------



## TRusselo

Just wanted to jump in and say hi. new to the forum and making my way around. Been rocking the Sabertooth since January 01 2013, with a 1090T x6 @3.840 Ghz

I would like to get more out of it, but dont understand more than half the options in the bios and cant find any real good information, if anyone would like to help me understand this a bit better and possibly get more out of it, please shoot me a PM or just reply here.


----------



## darkelixa

I just use a dedicated soundcard instead of onboard, problem solved


----------



## darkelixa

If you redid your computer it sounds like you didnt plug the sound in, the hd audio down the bottom near the usb


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> If you redid your computer it sounds like you didnt plug the sound in, the hd audio down the bottom near the usb


Oh i did.. It seems to be software related .. once i have time i will redo the BIOS first then figure out how I want to do an OS reload if that doesnt work


----------



## Archea47

Any tips for mounting fans to the VRM & NB heatsinks? (Rev 2.0)


----------



## Jflisk

i use one in my case cools the VRM and NB









Antec spot cooler

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209044


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> i use one in my case cools the VRM and NB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Antec spot cooler
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209044


But they are so ugly







Thanks for the tip though - I have them bookmarked


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> But they are so ugly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip though - I have them bookmarked


I have a 80mm fan blowing on mine


----------



## Pudfark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> i use one in my case cools the VRM and NB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Antec spot cooler
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209044


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> But they are so ugly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip though - I have them bookmarked


Both of you are correct. I have the antec on mine...it is ugly and it does work great. I also put an 80mm fan on the back of my Mobo where the VRM "plate" is....just because I'm paranoid and have already warped a Giggle 990FXA UD3 rev 1.1 board until it's darn near useless.
I'm a "big fan" of fans....







I have 14 fans in my case plus a Corsair H110. The only thing that gets hot? Is my room.


----------



## Jflisk

I have 14 Noctuas in my case Quite yep-Pricy yep-Ugly thats for sure.


----------



## darkelixa

Back to my onboard audio, the volume from onboard is alot louder than my cheap 20 dollar creative sound blaster tester, now to save up for a better card


----------



## TRusselo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Any tips for mounting fans to the VRM & NB heatsinks? (Rev 2.0)


the VRM is close to the same length as memory, i was just about to buy a memory cooling fan to put over it.

something like this... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corsair-Airflow-2-GTL-Memory-Cooling-Fan-CMXAF2-/291046524168
or these http://www.ebay.com/bhp/memory-cooling-fan


----------



## Tater00nuts

http://www.overclock.net/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-amd-owners-club/3900_100#post_19054708
http://www.overclock.net/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-amd-owners-club/3900_100#post_18972004

some pics of RAM air coolers mounted on the VRMs


----------



## Jflisk

The only reason I didnt use a ram cooler on the VRMs. Was you move your case and they can move down onto the board shorting it out. I did try it. Thanks


----------



## TRusselo

well thanks for that bit of info, guess ill buy one of the ones with plastic mounts...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-XW9400-WorkStation-Memory-Cooling-Fan-and-Shroud-AFB0712HHB-433992-002-/330885832969
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JM-Fan-Memory-FM001-RAM-Cooler-Colorful-LED-Outstanding-Cooling-35mm-Blue-/330991742022
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CORSAIR-Vengeance-Airflow-Memory-cooling-fan-Retail-/291045045832


----------



## Mega Man

screws, zip tie, wedge it in between some tubes... set it on your vid card, foam tapes


----------



## Archea47

Thanks for the tips, guys!

Unfortunately the fans for my H100i reach the top of the heatsink so I don't think any of the RAM cooler's I've been able to find would work. Great idea though

I think I'll have to do as Mega Man is getting at unfortunately. Any suggestions for fans? Obviously if you go on amazon etc. there are plenty of fans but ... I'd rather get input from the community knowledge instead of throwing the dice outright


----------



## Mega Man

i know people using 2x 40mm fans work great, you dont need alot of airflow, just some dont go to crazy ~


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i know people using 2x 40mm fans work great, you dont need alot of airflow, just some dont go to crazy ~


Is the NB worth coling too on these?


----------



## Mega Man

yes


----------



## rh pc

Hi guys!

I am curious. Which combo would be better for gaming and overclocking?

Combo 1: Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z paired with FX-6300

Combo 2: Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 paired with FX-8320

I am currently running an Asus GTX 760 and will go SLI down the line. Would it be better to go for the "supposed" TOP OF THE LINE Crosshair board and upgrade to 8 core later, or is the Asus Sabertooth in the same overclocking category and would do just fine. I am into hardcore oc'ing, memory, card, cpu all is overclocked in my rig and the cpu is water cooled with an AX 360....

Problem is, I can only do either or. Save on the CPU and get Crosshair or save on the board and get the FX-8320.

Thanks for the advice!


----------



## darkelixa

Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 paired with FX-8320 and oc it


----------



## darkelixa

Don't you already own ana 8320 in your sig?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rh pc*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> I am curious. Which combo would be better for gaming and overclocking?
> 
> Combo 1: Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z paired with FX-6300
> 
> Combo 2: Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 paired with FX-8320
> 
> I am currently running an Asus GTX 760 and will go SLI down the line. Would it be better to go for the "supposed" TOP OF THE LINE Crosshair board and upgrade to 8 core later, or is the Asus Sabertooth in the same overclocking category and would do just fine. I am into hardcore oc'ing, memory, card, cpu all is overclocked in my rig and the cpu is water cooled with an AX 360....
> 
> Problem is, I can only do either or. Save on the CPU and get Crosshair or save on the board and get the FX-8320.
> 
> Thanks for the advice!


Assuming you play bf4 or crysis 3.

Go 8320 and saber tooth

It is a very good clocked and will be able to get as high as you need with that cooling

Now if you do more single threaded games you could turn off modules and clock the chip higher so 8320 is a better chip for what you do especially newer games are going to be more multi threaded


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 paired with FX-8320 and oc it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rh pc*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> I am curious. Which combo would be better for gaming and overclocking?
> 
> Combo 1: Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z paired with FX-6300
> 
> Combo 2: Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 paired with FX-8320
> 
> I am currently running an Asus GTX 760 and will go SLI down the line. Would it be better to go for the "supposed" TOP OF THE LINE Crosshair board and upgrade to 8 core later, or is the Asus Sabertooth in the same overclocking category and would do just fine. I am into hardcore oc'ing, memory, card, cpu all is overclocked in my rig and the cpu is water cooled with an AX 360....
> 
> Problem is, I can only do either or. Save on the CPU and get Crosshair or save on the board and get the FX-8320.
> 
> Thanks for the advice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Assuming you play bf4 or crysis 3.
> 
> Go 8320 and saber tooth
> 
> It is a very good clocked and will be able to get as high as you need with that cooling
> 
> Now if you do more single threaded games you could turn off modules and clock the chip higher so 8320 is a better chip for what you do especially newer games are going to be more multi threaded
Click to expand...

agreed on all,


----------



## Jflisk

The Sabertooth is basically the same board as the Crosshair board. They both fit into the Asus ROG line. The FX8350 is a good processor owned one before I moved up to the FX9590. Not much of a price jump between the 2 right now just the cooling requirements change between processors.









I also agree with all the above.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

looks like my sound issue is going in for RMA.. Tried flashing BIOS installed windows and nothing seemed to work.. bummer deal sadly this will be my 4th board.. first 3 from new egg. this RMA will be from ASUS themselves. so it should turn out too be good


----------



## darkelixa

Whats wrong with your sound?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Whats wrong with your sound?


Lol it doesn't work

Redid drivers
Flashed bios
Installed the os again
Nothing worked if it was software I would have fixed it.. sadly it wasnt


----------



## darkelixa

When you play an audio file do you see the sound move up and down in the mixer? Did you try headphones or another sound device?


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> looks like my sound issue is going in for RMA.. Tried flashing BIOS installed windows and nothing seemed to work.. bummer deal sadly this will be my 4th board.. first 3 from new egg. this RMA will be from ASUS themselves. so it should turn out too be good


Have you considered just getting a sound card?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> When you play an audio file do you see the sound move up and down in the mixer? Did you try headphones or another sound device?


Yeah
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Have you considered just getting a sound card?


Yeah. But funds are strapped I just bought a 280x graphics card.

May in the future if I get this new job


----------



## darkelixa

So if the sound bars where going up and down, sounds like a speaker issue.


----------



## Mega Man

no, it isnt, it is a sound card issue ( on board ) mine has it as well. the board does not even see anything plugged in ( mine ) and it was a fault on the board


----------



## SgtHawker

I have seen that the sound issue is somewhat common with the Saberkitty, but does anyone know what happens? Is it like a cold solder joint on the audio chip's sound output or something?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no, it isnt, it is a sound card issue ( on board ) mine has it as well. the board does not even see anything plugged in ( mine ) and it was a fault on the board


This,

Asus agent I spoke to was surprised when I told him that this was a common issue with these boards. Any one with the GEN 3 have these issues?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*
> 
> I have seen that the sound issue is somewhat common with the Saberkitty, but does anyone know what happens? Is it like a cold solder joint on the audio chip's sound output or something?


Once I get my RMA I will check to see if I can find anything.. Down side is that I don't have a microscope to fully see. If I find anything I will let you know..

I would attempt to fix it if it is a solder fix, however I am unsure if it would be worth it as it may void if I mess up risky business


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> This,
> 
> Asus agent I spoke to was surprised when I told him that this was a common issue with these boards. Any one with the GEN 3 have these issues?
> Once I get my RMA I will check to see if I can find anything.. Down side is that I don't have a microscope to fully see. If I find anything I will let you know..
> 
> I would attempt to fix it if it is a solder fix, however I am unsure if it would be worth it as it may void if I mess up risky business


If it is a cold solder joint issue that would explain it's ubiquity, but agreed it could be very difficult to resolder yourself due to the tiny nature of SMDs.

Agents usually need to present a good face on their products as recorded calls and admitting their fault could get the employee reprimanded in the least.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*
> 
> If it is a cold solder joint issue that would explain it's ubiquity, but agreed it could be very difficult to resolder yourself due to the tiny nature of SMDs.
> 
> Agents usually need to present a good face on their products as recorded calls and admitting their fault could get the employee reprimanded in the least.


True


----------



## Cryo Sinder

I friggin love my Sabertooth 990FX R2! I just upgraded about 2 months ago and it is so nice to have a full featured modern motherboard. one question for anyone that can answer though: What is the best bios version for this mobo paired with a FX 4300?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cryo Sinder*
> 
> I friggin love my Sabertooth 990FX R2! I just upgraded about 2 months ago and it is so nice to have a full featured modern motherboard. one question for anyone that can answer though: What is the best bios version for this mobo paired with a FX 4300?


any 1201 and above


----------



## Jflisk

I am on 2104.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> screws, zip tie, wedge it in between some tubes... set it on your vid card, foam tapes


Done (zipties)










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







(Added a couple fans to my Sabertooth)


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I am on 2104.


Does it beep when you reboot? I'm on 1302, it only beeps occasionally, and getting into the BIOS can be a pain.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> Does it beep when you reboot? I'm on 1302, it only beeps occasionally, and getting into the BIOS can be a pain.


Had to change this on reboot should get one beep then into operating system.Bios is F1. Thanks


----------



## darkelixa

They only really make a sound if you apply new hardware,getting into BIOS is easy as lol


----------



## Mega Man

see the little linky in my sig, you can also use your reset button for the same thing


----------



## King Nothing

I've been using this board for a month now and enjoy it alot more than my Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3.


----------



## hucklebuck

Does the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 have and fan headers with PWM?


----------



## King Nothing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Does the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 have and fan headers with PWM?


From what I understand from Asus JJ, Only the main CPU fan header is "True" PWM, all the others are some hybrid "Kinda" PWM.


----------



## Mega Man

cpu opt is supposed to be true fan headers


----------



## King Nothing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> cpu opt is supposed to be true fan headers


CPU and CPU_OPT? Both are true PWM? Didn't know that.


----------



## BertolomeoDiaz

so i got a sabertooth 990fx rev. 2 for christmas
when i tried to get the cpu out of the socket yesterday, it was stuck
so i tried to lift it a little with a knife and cut off 4 pins









will try to solder some wire to the stumps, but sceptical


----------



## Mega Man

that sucks ~


----------



## BertolomeoDiaz

yeah, hope i can fix it
now i´ve got the new mobo and no cpu for it

what´s the word about steamroller? will it come for am3+ ?

if so, i might get a fx6300 for now, should the fx8350 be beyond repair, instead of 8320 or 8350,
then go steamroller, when they come


----------



## Mega Man

according to official channels no, but i never trust those anyway


----------



## BertolomeoDiaz

hear all, trust nothing (rules of acquisition 190, ds9)


----------



## TRusselo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BertolomeoDiaz*
> 
> so i got a sabertooth 990fx rev. 2 for christmas
> when i tried to get the cpu out of the socket yesterday, it was stuck
> so i tried to lift it a little with a knife and cut off 4 pins
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will try to solder some wire to the stumps, but sceptical


what? how? did you forget to lift the latch to a FULL 90 degrees? 80 degrees is not enough
PERFECT 90 degrees as in this picture ONLY before removing CPU.
These CPUs dont get stuck in boards. there should be zero friction inserting and removing the chip with the latch all the way up. I hope you were taking this chip out of your old board, otherwise... oh no... Please tell me you lifted the latch all the way when installing it... PLEASE!










dont even try the soldering. just dont.


----------



## darkelixa

Why would you use a knife to a cpu??


----------



## BertolomeoDiaz

it was stuck in the old board,
of course i lifted the latch
it wouldn´t come loose easily even with the knife as a lever between the socket and the cpu
didn´t put it anywhere near the new board so far
the pins fell out of the holes easily in the socket of the old board

why no soldering? it´s on the very edge of the whole thing, good to reach with the point of the iron
not close to the die in the middle of the cpu
i know people at company who are very experinced with soldering, gonna ask them


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BertolomeoDiaz*
> 
> it was stuck in the old board,
> of course i lifted the latch
> it wouldn´t come loose easily even with the knife as a lever between the socket and the cpu
> didn´t put it anywhere near the new board so far
> the pins fell out of the holes easily in the socket of the old board
> 
> why no soldering? it´s on the very edge of the whole thing, good to reach with the point of the iron
> not close to the die in the middle of the cpu
> i know people at company who are very experinced with soldering, gonna ask them


Tr would be correct the chip will need a re flow to be right. See re flow machine below.I fix computers for a living if you manage to get the pins back in you are a lucky person.

http://search.aol.com/aol/image?q=reflow+machine+&s_chn=prt_ct8&v_t=comsearch50ct16


----------



## Mega Man

worth a shot, also your cpu may still work you may of only cut a few pcie lanes there are diagrams which will show you


----------



## Art385

Hi I have odd problem with my Sabertooth rev 1. My CPU speed is unstable, fsb is jumping on it's own. It's really weird though I've seen it on my 970A-UD3 but clock was stable to 4.5ghz on sabertooth speed doesn't matter. Fsb is jumping randomly for example I have set 4.5 and after some time on HWinfo I can see that my maximum speed jumped to 4.59. Current speed in bios is also randomly shown incorrect. Anyone of you encountered similar problem ?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art385*
> 
> Hi I have odd problem with my Sabertooth rev 1. My CPU speed is unstable, fsb is jumping on it's own. It's really weird though I've seen it on my 970A-UD3 but clock was stable to 4.5ghz on sabertooth speed doesn't matter. Fsb is jumping randomly for example I have set 4.5 and after some time on HWinfo I can see that my maximum speed jumped to 4.59. Current speed in bios is also randomly shown incorrect. Anyone of you encountered similar problem ?


Sounds like the turbo core is turned on in the bios. restart machine press F1 go into bios find advanced.Go into advanced. You will find turbo core settings(turn off) in there.If you can find it let me know I will give you the long version. Thanks


----------



## Art385

turbo core is off. APM is off. Hpc is on.


----------



## Pudfark

Howdy All,

I am currently using BIOS 1503 and am considering going to BIOS 2104. Not experiencing any problems with the older BIOS, just wanting to know is there anything I should be aware of?
Currently running a AMD 8350 under a Corsair H110 and 16gig of 1600mhz memory. I'm just a dab skittish about updating the BIOS? All comments appreciated.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> Howdy All,
> 
> I am currently using BIOS 1503 and am considering going to BIOS 2104. Not experiencing any problems with the older BIOS, just wanting to know is there anything I should be aware of?
> Currently running a AMD 8350 under a Corsair H110 and 16gig of 1600mhz memory. I'm just a dab skittish about updating the BIOS? All comments appreciated.


Im not sure about that version of the BIOS but I had gone from 1503 to 2005 and saw nothing but Overclocking nightmare so I reverted to 1201 and have been happy since


----------



## Pudfark

Thanks F3ERS 2 ASH3S for the heads up, I realize this is a different version.... I have to constantly remind myself of "if it ain't broke don't fix it".
I just recently fixed my overclock and screwed it up and was hoping 2104 would be "easier".


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> Howdy All,
> 
> I am currently using BIOS 1503 and am considering going to BIOS 2104. Not experiencing any problems with the older BIOS, just wanting to know is there anything I should be aware of?
> Currently running a AMD 8350 under a Corsair H110 and 16gig of 1600mhz memory. I'm just a dab skittish about updating the BIOS? All comments appreciated.


if you plan on flashing the bios follow this information to create a usb bios.So if there is a problem you can flash it back if you feel skiddish about it.

You can flash forward and backward if you deiced to revert. Just make sure you have a bios on a flash drive and you can use it to flash without the machine loading if need be.
http://rog.asus.com/technology/republic-of-gamers-motherboard-innovations/usb-bios-flashback/

page 64 of the guide shows the usb port used for flashback

http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R2.0/E8042_SABERTOOTH_990FX_R2.pdf

2104 is the latest bios for the saberkitties. This will reset your bios settings

Thanks


----------



## rh pc

Newest Member!

Went with the "Tooth". UNBELIEVABLE!!! My FX-8320 @ 5.15Ghz currently, 1.5V, 58 degrees on water!!! SICK!!!!!!!!!!!!

GLAD I WENT WITH THE SABERKITTY


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Art385*
> 
> Hi I have odd problem with my Sabertooth rev 1. My CPU speed is unstable, fsb is jumping on it's own. It's really weird though I've seen it on my 970A-UD3 but clock was stable to 4.5ghz on sabertooth speed doesn't matter. Fsb is jumping randomly for example I have set 4.5 and after some time on HWinfo I can see that my maximum speed jumped to 4.59. Current speed in bios is also randomly shown incorrect. Anyone of you encountered similar problem ?
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like the turbo core is turned on in the bios. restart machine press F1 go into bios find advanced.Go into advanced. You will find turbo core settings(turn off) in there.If you can find it let me know I will give you the long version. Thanks
Click to expand...

fsb will fluctuate to help you can bump the 1.8v setting ( only one there is ) idr the name and by bump i mean press the "+" ONE time 1.805
it will still fluctuate, and fluctuation is normal, ALL CPUs do this, you may not see it but they do , as for the 8350 i used and owned CVFz, sabertooth, ud7 and all do it

also i own 970a-ud3 and same thing

when you were using the ud3 did you use hwinfo ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> Howdy All,
> 
> I am currently using BIOS 1503 and am considering going to BIOS 2104. Not experiencing any problems with the older BIOS, just wanting to know is there anything I should be aware of?
> Currently running a AMD 8350 under a Corsair H110 and 16gig of 1600mhz memory. I'm just a dab skittish about updating the BIOS? All comments appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> if you plan on flashing the bios follow this information to create a usb bios.So if there is a problem you can flash it back if you feel skiddish about it.
> 
> You can flash forward and backward if you deiced to revert. Just make sure you have a bios on a flash drive and you can use it to flash without the machine loading if need be.
> http://rog.asus.com/technology/republic-of-gamers-motherboard-innovations/usb-bios-flashback/
> 
> page 64 of the guide shows the usb port used for flashback
> 
> http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R2.0/E8042_SABERTOOTH_990FX_R2.pdf
> 
> 2104 is the latest bios for the saberkitties. This will reset your bios settings
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

please not you will also have to rename the file other then that no pain at all, even if you corrupt it, you can just reflash in 99% of cases,

also to note please do this at stock !!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rh pc*
> 
> Newest Member!
> 
> Went with the "Tooth". UNBELIEVABLE!!! My FX-8320 @ 5.15Ghz currently, 1.5V, 58 degrees on water!!! SICK!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> GLAD I WENT WITH THE SABERKITTY


welcome ! highest i have managed ( before they lifted the 1.7v vcore cap ) was 5.55


----------



## Pudfark

Thanks Jflisk and Mega Man....I will take the oclock off and revert to stock, rename the bios (I had forgotten about that) and proceed cautiously with my fingers crossed...


----------



## Mega Man

glad to be of help !


----------



## Art385

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> fsb will fluctuate to help you can bump the 1.8v setting ( only one there is ) idr the name and by bump i mean press the "+" ONE time 1.805
> it will still fluctuate, and fluctuation is normal, ALL CPUs do this, you may not see it but they do , as for the 8350 i used and owned CVFz, sabertooth, ud7 and all do it
> 
> also i own 970a-ud3 and same thing
> 
> when you were using the ud3 did you use hwinfo ?


Yep I used hwinfo. i can observe this also with cpu-z. I just wonder if it is not influencing my OC when clock jumps by 50-100mhz and cpu-nb by like 40 or so. On sabertooh even with this fluctuation I can get 4.5 stable at 1.416v compared to 1.456v on ud3 so I'm still very pleased with this board and i will try to bump voltage. ty for info


----------



## namcodan

I've got myself a work-in progress build going on right now. What do you all think of it so far?
specs:

Sabertooth 990FX Gen 1
AMD FX8150 3.6GHz (currently Oc to 4.3GHz)
2 x G. Skill Sniper 8GB DDR3 1866MHz
2 x GTS 250's 1Gb in SLI
8400 GS (used for web browsing)
Antec 1000W TruePower Quattro

Custom case and Liquid cooling system
-Phobya 1080 Radiator (with 9x 120mm fans)
-Koolance PMP-500
-Swiftec MCRES Micro
-Danger Den Maze 4 CPU Waterblock
-tubing is 1/4' 3/8'
-all compression fittings
-2x squirrel fans on motherboard tray area to help with ambient temps
-220mm fan on side


----------



## Jflisk

Looks good so far









The only thing you might want to check is the tubing. looks a little letched.I had clear at one time. Changed out to black. Otherwise looks awesome. send us some temps when done.


----------



## Cryo Sinder

So does anyone have any news on:

TUF Fortifier
TUF Thermal Armor
TUF Dust Defender

for the 990FX series? Or at least an explanation as to why we don't get these?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cryo Sinder*
> 
> So does anyone have any news on:
> 
> TUF Fortifier
> TUF Thermal Armor
> TUF Dust Defender
> 
> for the 990FX series? Or at least an explanation as to why we don't get these?


Because we are not the ROG chosen.


----------



## Mega Man

welcome to all the new people !!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Looks good so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing you might want to check is the tubing. looks a little letched.I had clear at one time. Changed out to black. Otherwise looks awesome. send us some temps when done.


never will how you mine
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cryo Sinder*
> 
> So does anyone have any news on:
> 
> TUF Fortifier
> TUF Thermal Armor
> TUF Dust Defender
> 
> for the 990FX series? Or at least an explanation as to why we don't get these?


cuz we are not intel !!!


----------



## cab2

Here's mine in a Lian-Li A17:

http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=66864

We have 2 of them actually, best mobo ever.


----------



## DancingOnAshes

So, I joined the chosen last month when I was bedridden after a car crash and needed a pick me up. Got a upgrading deal at my local computer hardware site of the 2.0 with a FX 8320 and Kingston DDR3 HyperX blu 1600MHz 16GB. Maybe a little old by now, but it works like a freaking dream, even if my antiviral utility got overzealous and torched the registry for the thermal radar. Anyway, I began playing around with it and I have it in my HAF 912 with a Eisberg and a cooling loop along with a rez/pump combo to kill some of the noise the godforsaken Eisberg makes by sharing the load.

Pics! http://imgur.com/a/3hX7Z


----------



## namcodan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Looks good so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing you might want to check is the tubing. looks a little letched.I had clear at one time. Changed out to black. Otherwise looks awesome. send us some temps when done.


It is done and currently running pretty well. Having a bit of trouble with the temps as theres too much ambiant heat inside the case. I'm actually trying to find waterblocks that fit the northbridge and v.regs. Considering the southbridge is blocked by the graphics cards, is it possible to still watercool it as well? Last but not least I'm looking for newer up to date gtx cards that have the power pins on the side of the card instead of on top of it (like most cards do), does anyone know of any that are setup like this? Also trying to keep 2 way SLI, possibly go for 3-way.

thanks
namcodan


----------



## namcodan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DancingOnAshes*
> 
> So, I joined the chosen last month when I was bedridden after a car crash and needed a pick me up. Got a upgrading deal at my local computer hardware site of the 2.0 with a FX 8320 and Kingston DDR3 HyperX blu 1600MHz 16GB. Maybe a little old by now, but it works like a freaking dream, even if my antiviral utility got overzealous and torched the registry for the thermal radar. Anyway, I began playing around with it and I have it in my HAF 912 with a Eisberg and a cooling loop along with a rez/pump combo to kill some of the noise the godforsaken Eisberg makes by sharing the load.
> 
> Pics! http://imgur.com/a/3hX7Z


Looks pretty sweet man, I'm loving the greenish tubing btw!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DancingOnAshes*
> 
> So, I joined the chosen last month when I was bedridden after a car crash and needed a pick me up. Got a upgrading deal at my local computer hardware site of the 2.0 with a FX 8320 and Kingston DDR3 HyperX blu 1600MHz 16GB. Maybe a little old by now, but it works like a freaking dream, even if my antiviral utility got overzealous and torched the registry for the thermal radar. Anyway, I began playing around with it and I have it in my HAF 912 with a Eisberg and a cooling loop along with a rez/pump combo to kill some of the noise the godforsaken Eisberg makes by sharing the load.
> 
> Pics! http://imgur.com/a/3hX7Z


so sorry about your crash and welcome !!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *namcodan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Looks good so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing you might want to check is the tubing. looks a little letched.I had clear at one time. Changed out to black. Otherwise looks awesome. send us some temps when done.
> 
> 
> 
> It is done and currently running pretty well. Having a bit of trouble with the temps as theres too much ambiant heat inside the case. I'm actually trying to find waterblocks that fit the northbridge and v.regs. Considering the southbridge is blocked by the graphics cards, is it possible to still watercool it as well? Last but not least I'm looking for newer up to date gtx cards that have the power pins on the side of the card instead of on top of it (like most cards do), does anyone know of any that are setup like this? Also trying to keep 2 way SLI, possibly go for 3-way.
> 
> thanks
> namcodan
Click to expand...

i dont know what you mean by the power connectors but you dont need to worry about the sb it does not get hot you can customize the koolance blocks ( biggest ) vrm and mounting plate ( what ever they call it ) nb would be another universal block


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almstsobur*
> 
> Koolance 100mm water block with 140mm plate adapter, installed it last night. Works great! The stock ceramic has 3 screws to take the Mosfets side (green section) off to fit the water cooler. you just have to ever so lightly bend the heatpipe to the right a little and the black section still covers the chokes nicely.
> 
> http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=736
> http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=737
> 
> I can take a pic of it installed if anyone is interested.


You, sir, are the man







+rep

I've gone ahead and ordered the MVR-100 with the 140mm plate (fcpu has them) and will be incorporating this into my new loop


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DancingOnAshes*
> 
> So, I joined the chosen last month when I was bedridden after a car crash and needed a pick me up. Got a upgrading deal at my local computer hardware site of the 2.0 with a FX 8320 and Kingston DDR3 HyperX blu 1600MHz 16GB. Maybe a little old by now, but it works like a freaking dream, even if my antiviral utility got overzealous and torched the registry for the thermal radar. Anyway, I began playing around with it and I have it in my HAF 912 with a Eisberg and a cooling loop along with a rez/pump combo to kill some of the noise the godforsaken Eisberg makes by sharing the load.
> 
> Pics! http://imgur.com/a/3hX7Z


Sorry about the crash.. at least you found a way to keep occupied









Minus the parts for the loop your setup is quite similar to mine..


----------



## DancingOnAshes

Thank you F3ERS 2 ASH3S, Mega Man, and namcodan. Luckily I managed to get away with just a little bruising and walking around with a collar for 2 weeks.

And I'm happy with how the loop turned out, and I'm going to add the graphics card as soon as it arrive, probably after the 20th. Only one 240mm radiator won't be good for much overclocking probably, but I'm eyeing the Phanteks Enthoo Primo atm, which would give me some more options. Maybe even for a small Memory loop.


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> You, sir, are the man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +rep
> 
> I've gone ahead and ordered the MVR-100 with the 140mm plate (fcpu has them) and will be incorporating this into my new loop


Could you lets us know how it worked out and show us some pics?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Could you lets us know how it worked out and show us some pics?


Are you kidding? I'm going to post it all over the place!!









Yes I will certainly report back. I've written EK in the past about our desire for Sabertooth 990FX motherboard blocks and have never gotten a response, so I'm very excited to go this route

You can see the buildlog in my sig


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Are you kidding? I'm going to post it all over the place!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I will certainly report back. I've written EK in the past about our desire for Sabertooth 990FX motherboard blocks and have never gotten a response, so I'm very excited to go this route
> 
> You can see the buildlog in my sig


Check this picture
http://www.overclock.net/g/i/1342092/asus-sabertooth-990fx-rev-1-0-with-koolance-water-blocks/sort/display_order/

Information

ou want that only for the look right ? On the new processors it's useless since you overclock by increasing the multiplier ...

Here's what utnorris wrote on overclock.net forums :
"Ok, so after seeing MrG and what he did, I went ahead and water cooled my NB and VRM's. Here is the part list:

Koolance CHC-125 - Requires no mod, but you do remove one of the retaining arms so spacing is correct.

http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/product&pat...

Koolance MVR-100

http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/product&pat...

Koolance MVR-PLT140 - You do have to drill holes in the plate so it lines up with the stockback plate, but then you use the stock back plate and screws to mount it.

http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/product&pat...

Temps are consistent across the VRM's and NB, sitting at 37c. So not too bad. Under stress test they move up to 42c and only vary by a degree or two between the hottest and coolest part Vcore 1, Vcore 2 and NB HT temps. Keep in mind this was only for 5 minutes, didn't feel like sitting around waiting on it.

I will take some later and post them."

They are not made for it but they fir it with some drilling.


----------



## Archea47

Hey Jflisk,

My concern with going the NB cooling route is that I would loose the VRM choke cooling from the stock Sabertooth VRM+NB heatsink.

Do you guys think that's a valid concern or should I go ahead and grab a Koolance CHC-125 while I'm at it?

See almstsobur's pictures with the stock NB heatsink:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-amd-owners-club/2030#post_16653499


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Could you lets us know how it worked out and show us some pics?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you kidding? I'm going to post it all over the place!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I will certainly report back. I've written EK in the past about our desire for Sabertooth 990FX motherboard blocks and have never gotten a response, so I'm very excited to go this route
> 
> You can see the buildlog in my sig
Click to expand...

haha they told me " nope we are not interested "
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hey Jflisk,
> 
> My concern with going the NB cooling route is that I would loose the VRM choke cooling from the stock Sabertooth VRM+NB heatsink.
> 
> Do you guys think that's a valid concern or should I go ahead and grab a Koolance CHC-125 while I'm at it?
> 
> See almstsobur's pictures with the stock NB heatsink:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-amd-owners-club/2030#post_16653499


people have used universal blocks for the NB as well


----------



## namcodan

I've run into a problem now. My G. Skill Sniper ram (2x8GB) is supposed to run at 1866mhz but shows up under CPU-Z as being 668.9mhz. How do I get it to go back to 1866mhz?

http://valid.canardpc.com/2rwscl


----------



## darkelixa

Sounds like your running it at 1333


----------



## namcodan

Well the real Question is how do i get it set back up to the original 1866? it had only started this problem last week and still haven't figured out why its doing it.


----------



## darkelixa

The only way to change ram speed is in the bios man


----------



## DancingOnAshes

Okay, I'm constantly getting warnings from my Thermal Radar of buggernuts insane temperatures, like -128 degrees centigrade, as well as warnings about the voltages, like the 12V at 0.2V, all with the system being steady as a rock. Is it just ****ty coding or could I have a problem somewhere?


----------



## Minotaurtoo

usually that happens because you have another monitoring program running somewhere... at least that's been the case every time I've run in to that problem.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I have a silly question... is there any good water blocks out there that don't require you to change the back plate on your main board? I have a case that I got for looks ( I know dumb idea) that does not have rear access to the socket area and I don't really want to have to get another one or pull out my board, but I also want to go to real water cooling and get away from my H80... if not, then I will have to just suck it up and pull out my board... but when I do that I'll also get out my jig saw and cut me some access lol.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I have a silly question... is there any good water blocks out there that don't require you to change the back plate on your main board? I have a case that I got for looks ( I know dumb idea) that does not have rear access to the socket area and I don't really want to have to get another one or pull out my board, but I also want to go to real water cooling and get away from my H80... if not, then I will have to just suck it up and pull out my board... but when I do that I'll also get out my jig saw and cut me some access lol.


XSPC Razor water block. I have one in my system no problems.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14191/ex-blc-972/XSPC_RayStorm_High_Performance_Acetal_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_AMD_Sockets_AM2_AM2_AM3_FM1.html?tl=g30c85s139


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *namcodan*
> 
> Well the real Question is how do i get it set back up to the original 1866? it had only started this problem last week and still haven't figured out why its doing it.


Go into bios(F1 from boot) then advanced you are looking to set D.O.C.P. Then one tab under should let you pick the speed. If you need full instructions I can get them for you latter once I get my water loop back up.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> XSPC Razor water block. I have one in my system no problems.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14191/ex-blc-972/XSPC_RayStorm_High_Performance_Acetal_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_AMD_Sockets_AM2_AM2_AM3_FM1.html?tl=g30c85s139


thank you for the response, I'm bookmarking that to get when I change over...


----------



## darkelixa

The main thing i dont like about the asus sabertooth 990fx rv2 is if if you have a decent two slot gpu you lose the pcie port


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> The main thing i dont like about the asus sabertooth 990fx rv2 is if if you have a decent two slot gpu you lose the pcie port


I feel you on that. I have a wireless card that I would love to use that I can't because of that reason


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> haha they told me " nope we are not interested "
> people have used universal blocks for the NB as well


What benefit do you get from using a NB cooling block? Do they get OC'd much on this board, or do they get hot.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> What benefit do you get from using a NB cooling block? Do they get OC'd much on this board, or do they get hot.


From experience when i went from the FX8350 to the FX 9590 they can heat up pretty good when you turn up the voltage on the cpu. My max temp was 75C on the northbridge. I had to put a fan on it to keep it cool. I now do not go over 60C. The Mossfets or Vcore get hot on these boards especially under water.


----------



## darkelixa

I wouldnt bother overclocking a 9590, they are just too hot even at stock


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> The main thing i dont like about the asus sabertooth 990fx rv2 is if if you have a decent two slot gpu you lose the pcie port


you know you can use the x4 slot ( black one )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> I wouldnt bother overclocking a 9590, they are just too hot even at stock


hahaha sounds like you need a better cooler


----------



## darkelixa

wouldnt running a r9 290 in 4x be a bad idea?


----------



## Jflisk

A bad idea how ?


----------



## darkelixa

I thought a high end gpu should be using the 16x slot for more bandwidth?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> I thought a high end gpu should be using the 16x slot for more bandwidth?


If you notice a difference between a 8x or 16x I would be surprised it is usually a good debate though.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> wouldnt running a r9 290 in 4x be a bad idea?


i thought you were talking about losing the x1 slot ( i assume for wifi/soundcard )


----------



## darkelixa

i have an r9 290, and i would like to buy a newer soundcard or capture card, but they are pcie. To get pcie i would have to put the gpu into a lower end slot which would give the card less bandwidth. Almost easier to just buy a newer mainboard from gigabyte or asrock


----------



## Mega Man

no you can put a pcie xanything into a pcie xanything slot so you can use a x1 in a x4 x8 or x16 or x16 into a x1 ect

they just wont have the bandwidth

the other problem is you would need a riser or special pcie brackets like the RIVBE has or you can break the side off of the x1 slot



if you are talking about PCI ( one slot on board )

then yea you would need a riser.

however i would not put a gpu in a x1 unless mining

but a soundcard with pciex1 in a pciex4 slot no problem

i dont know much about the video capture side of life


----------



## darkelixa

there is only 1 pcie slot on the asus sabertooth and its right under the 16x gpu slot


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> there is only 1 pcie slot on the asus sabertooth and its right under the 16x gpu slot


you are talking about PCI not PCIE

as all the slots X1 X4 and X16 are all PCIE

the pci slot is under the 3rd x16 slot

it goes on the r2.0

PCIEx16

PCIEx1

PCIEx4

PCIEx16/x8 *

PCI

PCIEx8 *

the "*" means they share bandwidth and if you put a card in the last slot the first "*" slot is an x8 rather then x16


----------



## darkelixa

3 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (dual x16 or x16/x8/x8) *1
1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (x4 mode, black)
1 x PCIe 2.0 x1 <<< that one
1 x PCI

so a sound card can be plugged into any of those pcie slots?


----------



## Mega Man

yes

plus i steath edited

but if you are running in CFX ( 2 cards ) i would recommend plugging it in on the black pcie slot if possible


----------



## darkelixa

Oh ok, so i can buy a asus pcie soundcard and plug it into the black pciex8 slot no worries?

If so im going to jump on that straight away


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> From experience when i went from the FX8350 to the FX 9590 they can heat up pretty good when you turn up the voltage on the cpu. My max temp was 75C on the northbridge. I had to put a fan on it to keep it cool. I now do not go over 60C. The Mossfets or Vcore get hot on these boards especially under water.


What kind of voltage are you running for the NB temperatures you referenced above?

I want to run ~1.7V and am trying to decide by Monday morning (for placing another order) if I should liquid cool the NB or not. I currently do have a 40mm fan on it.

The reason I wasn't going to was that the NB heatsink provides some cooling for the VRM chokes. I suppose high vcore will increase the NB temps in that regard, as there is a heat pipe between the VRM chokes and NB.

Maybe I should get a tiny heatsink to lay across the VRM chokes? Or do they not even need cooling?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> What kind of voltage are you running for the NB temperatures you referenced above?
> 
> I want to run ~1.7V and am trying to decide by Monday morning (for placing another order) if I should liquid cool the NB or not. I currently do have a 40mm fan on it.
> 
> The reason I wasn't going to was that the NB heatsink provides some cooling for the VRM chokes. I suppose high vcore will increase the NB temps in that regard, as there is a heat pipe between the VRM chokes and NB.
> 
> Maybe I should get a tiny heatsink to lay across the VRM chokes? Or do they not even need cooling?


My FX9590 runs at 1.524 I dont think you can hit 1.7 on a sabertooth. 1.6 max I Think. You might want to look around its posted somewhere.

I just put an antec spot cooler on it 10 to 16.00 . They work
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/antec-spot-cool


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> What kind of voltage are you running for the NB temperatures you referenced above?
> 
> I want to run ~1.7V and am trying to decide by Monday morning (for placing another order) if I should liquid cool the NB or not. I currently do have a 40mm fan on it.
> 
> The reason I wasn't going to was that the NB heatsink provides some cooling for the VRM chokes. I suppose high vcore will increase the NB temps in that regard, as there is a heat pipe between the VRM chokes and NB.
> 
> Maybe I should get a tiny heatsink to lay across the VRM chokes? Or do they not even need cooling?


Vrm's heat up more than the nb I'd say water cool the vrm and small fan the nb or water cool both. At least if you are going that route

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> My FX9590 runs at 1.524 I dont think you can hit 1.7 on a sabertooth. 1.6 max I Think. You might want to look around its posted somewhere.
> 
> I just put an antec spot cooler on it 10 to 16.00 . They work
> http://www.ebay.com/bhp/antec-spot-cool


I do 1.68sh I have also done 1.8 and have gone higher

You have to disable the voltage monitors in bios.

I have an 80 mm fan on my vrms. Another 80 mm on my ram


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Vrm's heat up more than the nb I'd say water cool the vrm and small fan the nb or water cool both. At least if you are going that route
> I do 1.68sh I have also done 1.8 and have gone higher
> 
> You have to disable the voltage monitors in bios.
> 
> I have an 80 mm fan on my vrms. Another 80 mm on my ram


Thanks for the tip RE disable voltage monitors in BIOS (+rep) - at what voltage do you have to and where do you do that?

I already have the VRM block on order but am trying to decide if I should do the NB or not. My concern as I said above is that means I lose the VRM choke cooler. I'm leaning toward the NB block too but should I add a passive ramsink to the chokes?

As for the ram - did you add the 80mm fan to yours based on seeing high temperatures or just a precaution?

Also, I'm currently on 2005 - any reason I should flash a different BIOS?

EDIT: Okay I have the NB block on order along with some generic heat sinks to put on the chokes


----------



## ceaze one

Just curious, and sorry if this has been asked before... Would any of the FX-9xxx processors run on a Sabertooth Rev. 1?


----------



## Jflisk

Per Asus site documents no.

Information to documents
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FX/#support


----------



## DancingOnAshes

Okay, so I found some use for the Stock Cooler Fan and some quality double sided tape I had laying around. Now my vrm is at 35 degrees centigrade. Oddly, what took it down from the previous 51 degrees to 46 was removing the stock cpu cooler... top notch design there guys. And I'm not worried about it falling off, that tape is used to hold gps' to tractor windows, and the glue comes off with a little ethanol.


----------



## Mega Man

yep alot of people do that


----------



## DancingOnAshes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yep alot of people do that


Mhmm, planning on getting a set of 40mm fans and rig them up like I've seen on this forum. Two on the vrm and one on the Northbridge.


----------



## Mega Man

if only people would make a waterblock for one of the best selling 990fx boards.... i mean they can make a full block including vrm, chipset, and CPU for a DEAD socket MITX or MATX IDR intel... but not for a damn good board


----------



## DancingOnAshes

Well, we could try swamping EK's Think cell. That's what it's for after all.

Edit; Would very much like to see a Sabertooth with EK blocks and their new hard tubing setup. I know Singularity computers makes some gorgeous builds with Bitspower Crystal Link.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if only people would make a waterblock for one of the best selling 990fx boards.... i mean they can make a full block including vrm, chipset, and CPU for a DEAD socket MITX or MATX IDR intel... but not for a damn good board


Yep I asked for it on the EK forum. When I first got my board they said nope not going to happen.I also reminded them that there is a lot of the boards out there and people actually own them.


----------



## By-Tor

I replaced my smaller 60mm very high speed fan with this 90mm Delta that's control through AI suite. It's mounted to one of the unused holes in my D-Tek CPU blocks mount plate.


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Hey all, have had the board since July of 2013 and for the most part have been very happy with it. About a week and a half ago (jan 3rd) while playing Far Cry 3 my screen flickers and then crashes. PSU still running, VGA fans spinning, case fans, H80i fans/pump still rockin but no screen and no power to any USB port.

I shut it all down, restart and I get stuck on the ASUS TUF splash screen...cannot get into bios, dead USB ports but everything else running as before (or at least they look like they are).
Restart again only with the side open (to see the LED lights) and the lights cycle on through (vga on, then off....ram on then off...cpu on then off...then it stops on the boot device led and it persistently stays lit and red there.

I unplug all items from all USB ports leaving only a keyboard in the PS2 port...the keyboard now lights up but no change, unable to get into bios, stuck on splash screen.
I unplug the AC power, clear the cmos (both by battery and jumper) Then I disconnect everything SATA (1 DVD rom, 1 SSD, 2 Mechanical HDD), I then remove all sticks of ram but 1 (had 4 sticks, left 1 4gb stick) and I connect one old school logitech USB keyboard. So pretty much all thats connected here is a video card, CPU, H80i, PSU, one stick of 4GB ram, one USB keyboard and NOTHING else.....result: Same: All LED's on the board cycle on through, then stop at boot device, persistent red. Asus splash screen and no way to get into bios as no keys works either PS2 or USB (even though the keyboard lights up on PS2, still unable to go to bios)

Sooooooooo I call ASUS and they are sending me a new board cross ship. I am beyond UNHAPPY with the service I got from ASUS





















10 days later and I STILL have no board. Ive had to call them 6 and 7 times after being all upset with them on the phone today is when I get their email that a board will ship today....

My question:
Anyone have any experience with Customer Service from any other brand Gigabyte or MSI? Been buying ASUS boards for years and have always hated their CS but this is by far the worst experience I have had with them. I looooooooooooooooooooooooooooove EVGA customer service but they only have intel boards


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> Hey all, have had the board since July of 2013 and for the most part have been very happy with it. About a week and a half ago (jan 3rd) while playing Far Cry 3 my screen flickers and then crashes. PSU still running, VGA fans spinning, case fans, H80i fans/pump still rockin but no screen and no power to any USB port.
> 
> I shut it all down, restart and I get stuck on the ASUS TUF splash screen...cannot get into bios, dead USB ports but everything else running as before (or at least they look like they are).
> Restart again only with the side open (to see the LED lights) and the lights cycle on through (vga on, then off....ram on then off...cpu on then off...then it stops on the boot device led and it persistently stays lit and red there.
> 
> I unplug all items from all USB ports leaving only a keyboard in the PS2 port...the keyboard now lights up but no change, unable to get into bios, stuck on splash screen.
> I unplug the AC power, clear the cmos (both by battery and jumper) Then I disconnect everything SATA (1 DVD rom, 1 SSD, 2 Mechanical HDD), I then remove all sticks of ram but 1 (had 4 sticks, left 1 4gb stick) and I connect one old school logitech USB keyboard. So pretty much all thats connected here is a video card, CPU, H80i, PSU, one stick of 4GB ram, one USB keyboard and NOTHING else.....result: Same: All LED's on the board cycle on through, then stop at boot device, persistent red. Asus splash screen and no way to get into bios as no keys works either PS2 or USB (even though the keyboard lights up on PS2, still unable to go to bios)
> 
> Sooooooooo I call ASUS and they are sending me a new board cross ship. I am beyond UNHAPPY with the service I got from ASUS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10 days later and I STILL have no board. Ive had to call them 6 and 7 times after being all upset with them on the phone today is when I get their email that a board will ship today....
> 
> My question:
> Anyone have any experience with Customer Service from any other brand Gigabyte or MSI? Been buying ASUS boards for years and have always hated their CS but this is by far the worst experience I have had with them. I looooooooooooooooooooooooooooove EVGA customer service but they only have intel boards






i have not heard good things about their boards either, just there cust service. however i have to ask did you try reflashing bios ?


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> i have not heard good things about their boards either, just there cust service. however i have to ask did you try reflashing bios ?


How do I flash the bios? Whenever I turn on the system it hangs on the ASUS splash screen and I can't get into the bios. None of the USBs work and even using the ps2 keyboard nothing happens.


----------



## Mega Man

use another pc format a usb in fat32 ( or verify it is in fat32 ) download bios rename to what ever is in the manual ( idr but i can find out for you if you need ) put usb into the right port and press the bios flashback button ( iirc it has a white boarder around it on the i/o shield, right next to the bios flashback button ) press and hold till it flashes

very important to rename the file


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> use another pc format a usb in fat32 ( or verify it is in fat32 ) download bios rename to what ever is in the manual ( idr but i can find out for you if you need ) put usb into the right port and press the bios flashback button ( iirc it has a white boarder around it on the i/o shield, right next to the bios flashback button ) press and hold till it flashes
> 
> very important to rename the file


When you say whatever is in the manual, what do you mean? The manual has a specific bios version?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DancingOnAshes*
> 
> Okay, so I found some use for the Stock Cooler Fan and some quality double sided tape I had laying around. Now my vrm is at 35 degrees centigrade. Oddly, what took it down from the previous 51 degrees to 46 was removing the stock cpu cooler... top notch design there guys. And I'm not worried about it falling off, that tape is used to hold gps' to tractor windows, and the glue comes off with a little ethanol.


Haha that's a great idea - I forgot those CPU coolers in the closet have fans I can re-use on them

Where's the cable going off to - isn't there a fan header right there?


----------



## DancingOnAshes

I just hadn't attached it yet so it's just dangling, I attached it to one of the 4 pin chassi fan headers on the motherboard.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> use another pc format a usb in fat32 ( or verify it is in fat32 ) download bios rename to what ever is in the manual ( idr but i can find out for you if you need ) put usb into the right port and press the bios flashback button ( iirc it has a white boarder around it on the i/o shield, right next to the bios flashback button ) press and hold till it flashes
> 
> very important to rename the file
> 
> 
> 
> When you say whatever is in the manual, what do you mean? The manual has a specific bios version?
Click to expand...

no

http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R2.0/E8042_SABERTOOTH_990FX_R2.pdf

page 2-12


----------



## wa3pnt

Here is how I handled the cooling:



The fans are controlled by a Bitfenix Recon, with temp probes on the VCore, NB, and DRAM.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no
> 
> http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R2.0/E8042_SABERTOOTH_990FX_R2.pdf
> 
> page 2-12


Ok got it. Was able to flash the bios (at least it looked that way, it flashed for about 5-10 seconds then stopped) but no go. Same thing, splash screen, no working USB's (except for that special one...it lit the keyboard but when I hit f2 or delete the screen goes black and nothing)

*sigh I sort of got my hopes up a bit lol


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> Hey all, have had the board since July of 2013 and for the most part have been very happy with it. About a week and a half ago (jan 3rd) while playing Far Cry 3 my screen flickers and then crashes. PSU still running, VGA fans spinning, case fans, H80i fans/pump still rockin but no screen and no power to any USB port.


Did you try a PSU tester, or a different PSU? Your symptoms sound real familiar to when my Corsair 750TX failed and I had it replaced under Warranty RMA.


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*
> 
> Did you try a PSU tester, or a different PSU? Your symptoms sound real familiar to when my Corsair 750TX failed and I had it replaced under Warranty RMA.


Don't have a PSU tester. I do have another PSU but I don't know that it will work. The video card I'm using is a GTX 770 SC 4GB and requires a PSU that has a minimum of 40a in the +12V rail (which it does). My old PSU (which works) uses 30a per 12v rail.

Will this still work? I don't have an old vid card


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> Don't have a PSU tester. I do have another PSU but I don't know that it will work. The video card I'm using is a GTX 770 SC 4GB and requires a PSU that has a minimum of 40a in the +12V rail (which it does). My old PSU (which works) uses 30a per 12v rail.
> 
> Will this still work? I don't have an old vid card


I don't know if this will be an issue, but you can test it. The 40a requirement is likely for max current draw at high usage, so just to test the other PSU in your system to see if it will let you into BIOS or to boot to OS, should be okay for a short term test.


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no
> 
> http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R2.0/E8042_SABERTOOTH_990FX_R2.pdf
> 
> page 2-12


Thanks for the tip on this, learned something new that was sitting in my manual the whole time lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SgtHawker*
> 
> I don't know if this will be an issue, but you can test it. The 40a requirement is likely for max current draw at high usage, so just to test the other PSU in your system to see if it will let you into BIOS or to boot to OS, should be okay for a short term test.


Thanks for the suggestion, I gave it a shot and it seemed fine. (rather nothing to indicate it was not powering anything )









______________________________________________________________________
Well it looks like It was the dang mobo afterall...(or somethin on it)

With the replacement board still sitting on the stoop where FedEx left it I decided to try a couple of more things as a last ditch effort (in the end I'd rather keep my board than put in someone else's refurb..)

-Took out the PSU and put in an older one that I knew for sure was in good working condition, just not as heavy duty and no luck. Same thing, ASUS splash screen then black, no bios blah blah
-Took out my video card (found a GTX280 in the closet that I forgot about) and no luck. As my friend's mom in her Irish brogue would say, same fecking thing

Soo I unpacked the refurb (or whatever it is they send u) and an hour later the big beast fired right up.....in the end I guess there was something shiddy on that board (who the hell knows what...) but whatever.

Thanks to all of you (you know who you are) for all your awesome suggestions and for taking the time to help Learned how to flash my bios even when nothing is working lol


----------



## Mega Man

food for thought guys i need to start ocing though it seems
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KyadCK*
> 
> Hey guys, guess what:
> 
> 
> I found first proof, I win. And yes, it did come out today.


----------



## SgtHawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> Thanks to all of you (you know who you are) for all your awesome suggestions and for taking the time to help Learned how to flash my bios even when nothing is working lol


Glad you got it sorted out! A day you learn something is a good day.


----------



## THC Butterz




----------



## Archea47

Well I can confirm that the Koolance blocks work!



A think of beauty







Both parts required some machining; I'll provide more info and pictures at another time

Here's another nasty cameraphone shot - I can't wait any longer I need to game


----------



## Mega Man

nice, great pic !


----------



## hucklebuck

Does the this motherboard support hot swap with e-sata?

I am thinking about using external storage on this motherboard and was wondering what users here have experienced, like with e-sata and USB 3.0?


----------



## Mega Man

yes it does


----------



## azcrazy

Do you guys know if my sabertooth v1 can handle this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113284

it has the 1304 bios, is running a 960t unlockable to 6 core


----------



## Mega Man

yes it can


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Well I can confirm that the Koolance blocks work!
> 
> 
> 
> A think of beauty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both parts required some machining; I'll provide more info and pictures at another time
> 
> Here's another nasty cameraphone shot - I can't wait any longer I need to game


When you get a chance can we get detailed instructions on how install the blocks. UTNORRIS did this years ago but the details were a little short and are hard to find at this point. Thanks


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Well I can confirm that the Koolance blocks work!
> 
> 
> 
> A think of beauty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both parts required some machining; I'll provide more info and pictures at another time
> 
> Here's another nasty cameraphone shot - I can't wait any longer I need to game


cant say I aprove of the color choice of your fluid, concidering it matches the rest of your rig 0% in that pic, but that is one hell of a mod, maybe you shuld post a better pic or two, I would really love to see if that rig looks alot better under different lighting, or at a different angle!


----------



## cab2

What is the lowest % duty cycle you can set your chassis fans?

page 3-30 of the manual:

_CPU Fan Min. Duty Cycle(%)
Use the <+> and <-> keys to adjust the minimum chassis fan duty cycle.
*The values range from 0% to 100%*._

But the lowest I can set is *60%* !

Have newer BIOS versions fixed this problem?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> cant say I aprove of the color choice of your fluid, concidering it matches the rest of your rig 0% in that pic, but that is one hell of a mod, maybe you shuld post a better pic or two, I would really love to see if that rig looks alot better under different lighting, or at a different angle!


Yeah no joke. The problem is my PCIE cables with that EVGA power supply are red. So I went with red fluid to try and make them look less out of place

It does match much better though from different angles

I'll try to post more pictures (and details of course) this evening when I'm home from work. I'll be with the lady though and she gets jealous

Short and skinny: On the Rev 2 Sabertooth 990FX you need to grind part of the righthand mounting bracket for the NB cooler away to clear some capacitors. To use the VRM cooler you need to drill some holes in the heat transfer plate (it's nickel plated copper), then it will work with the stock VRM backplate. Drilling the holes in the right place is essential - if you drill them wrong the plate could come in contact with the chokes


----------



## THC Butterz

I would love to do that mod, but untill I update my current case (HAF932) to my next case (Phantechs Enthoo Primo), My damn 120 rad stops me oh well, also if you could give us the model number or a link for where to buy that moffset block, that would be great!


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> if you could give us the model number or a link for where to buy that moffset block, that would be great!


The MOSFET block is Koolance MVR-100 with the 140mm cooling plate. The NB block is Koolance CNC-122


----------



## f0rteOC

http://valid.canardpc.com/w8pwdc
Just replaced a semi-defective Antec Kuhler 620 with a CM Hyper 212 Evo, and my 8320 doesn't overheat while running Prime95 @ stock speeds!


----------



## Mega Man

congrats ?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f0rteOC*
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/w8pwdc
> Just replaced a semi-defective Antec Kuhler 620 with a CM Hyper 212 Evo, and my 8320 doesn't overheat while running Prime95 @ stock speeds!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> congrats ?
Click to expand...

The Evo... *Shutters*


----------



## xSpiriT

Hey all. I'm a new sabertooth 990fx R2.0 owner. Here is my validator.
http://valid.canardpc.com/kli32n
Sorry I couldn't make my username MATT on here. I swear that is my validator. Here is a pic.

Hope you all like it. If you have any questions or comments feel free to reply or pm me.
Thanks.


----------



## TRusselo

so i just found this at Memory Express for 15$ to put over my stock voltage regulator heatsink.



2 x 4" fans... 12 V no speed control, 4 pin molnex connector.

The good?
Fit like a dream no worries of the metal bracket touching anything near the motherboard.
10 degrees cooler at idle VCore1 tmp 48 down to 38 VCore2 tmp 46 down to 36

The bad?
Ugly blue lights hit me first.
Loud! these 2 fans were the loudest part of my system. louder than my his iceq x2 7950.
The 2 fans must have been spinning at slightly different speeds, caused a harmonic overlap, a loud, low pulsating hum. just as loud as the high pitch whine of the 2 fans.

I even tried removing the fans from the bracket and placing some rubber washers in there to take some vibration away, didnt help. Pulled from system. Screw that.

put in a 6 inch fan. sitting on my graphics card pointed at the corner of the heat pipe, much quieter, but only 8 degrees cooler at idle.


----------



## DancingOnAshes

Spent about 13 hours working on my computer during Monday, and I'm rather pleased with the results. The CPU block is a EK Supremacy Clean Plexy and I'm very happy with it, the UV LED's makes it glowy.



So far I'm not considering overclocking the CPU since I'm running on only one 240mm rad due to budgetary constraints. But when that changes I'm going to add a 480 in the bottom of my new Primo, and then I'm going to make the sucker dance.


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DancingOnAshes*
> 
> Spent about 13 hours working on my computer during Monday, and I'm rather pleased with the results. The CPU block is a EK Supremacy Clean Plexy and I'm very happy with it, the UV LED's makes it glowy.
> 
> So far I'm not considering overclocking the CPU since I'm running on only one 240mm rad due to budgetary constraints. But when that changes I'm going to add a 480 in the bottom of my new Primo, and then I'm going to make the sucker dance.


Looks great, what case is that a 800D ?


----------



## DancingOnAshes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> Looks great, what case is that a 800D ?


Naah, the new Phanteks Enthoo Primo.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xSpiriT*
> 
> Hey all. I'm a new sabertooth 990fx R2.0 owner. Here is my validator.
> http://valid.canardpc.com/kli32n
> Sorry I couldn't make my username MATT on here. I swear that is my validator. Here is a pic.
> 
> Hope you all like it. If you have any questions or comments feel free to reply or pm me.
> Thanks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DancingOnAshes*
> 
> Spent about 13 hours working on my computer during Monday, and I'm rather pleased with the results. The CPU block is a EK Supremacy Clean Plexy and I'm very happy with it, the UV LED's makes it glowy.
> 
> 
> 
> So far I'm not considering overclocking the CPU since I'm running on only one 240mm rad due to budgetary constraints. But when that changes I'm going to add a 480 in the bottom of my new Primo, and then I'm going to make the sucker dance.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DancingOnAshes*
> 
> Spent about 13 hours working on my computer during Monday, and I'm rather pleased with the results. The CPU block is a EK Supremacy Clean Plexy and I'm very happy with it, the UV LED's makes it glowy.
> 
> So far I'm not considering overclocking the CPU since I'm running on only one 240mm rad due to budgetary constraints. But when that changes I'm going to add a 480 in the bottom of my new Primo, and then I'm going to make the sucker dance.
> 
> 
> 
> Looks great, what case is that a 800D ?
Click to expand...

welcome all and wow looks great, !!!


----------



## markshim

hi guys,

can anyone help with which chipset drivers i can use for my asus sabertooth 990fx r2.0, i am still using the ones that come with the asus disc for the motherboard because every driver i have tried causes problems for me. i have used the one on the asus website and the ones on the amd site and still they cause problems with the sata driver or some thing else to do with the chipsets?

i wanted to install windows 8 but because the disc that came with the motherboard it for windows 7 it wont let my use the drivers on there and when i go to the asus site and use the windows 8 driver on there i get BSOD.

i have never been able to update my chipset driver from the ones on the disc for windows 7 or 8.

any help please?

i even thought about getting a new sabertooth 990fx gen 3 motherboard just so i could have updated working windows 7 and 8 chipset drivers from the disc lol


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markshim*
> 
> hi guys,
> 
> can anyone help with which chipset drivers i can use for my asus sabertooth 990fx r2.0, i am still using the ones that come with the asus disc for the motherboard because every driver i have tried causes problems for me. i have used the one on the asus website and the ones on the amd site and still they cause problems with the sata driver or some thing else to do with the chipsets?
> 
> i wanted to install windows 8 but because the disc that came with the motherboard it for windows 7 it wont let my use the drivers on there and when i go to the asus site and use the windows 8 driver on there i get BSOD.
> 
> i have never been able to update my chipset driver from the ones on the disc for windows 7 or 8.
> 
> any help please?
> 
> i even thought about getting a new sabertooth 990fx gen 3 motherboard just so i could have updated working windows 7 and 8 chipset drivers from the disc lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markshim*
> 
> hi guys,
> 
> can anyone help with which chipset drivers i can use for my asus sabertooth 990fx r2.0, i am still using the ones that come with the asus disc for the motherboard because every driver i have tried causes problems for me. i have used the one on the asus website and the ones on the amd site and still they cause problems with the sata driver or some thing else to do with the chipsets?
> 
> i wanted to install windows 8 but because the disc that came with the motherboard it for windows 7 it wont let my use the drivers on there and when i go to the asus site and use the windows 8 driver on there i get BSOD.
> 
> i have never been able to update my chipset driver from the ones on the disc for windows 7 or 8.
> 
> any help please?
> 
> i even thought about getting a new sabertooth 990fx gen 3 motherboard just so i could have updated working windows 7 and 8 chipset drivers from the disc lol


If you install the drivers below you should have no problems. These are the 13.12 drivers from AMD. You should have no problems with the drivers I have the same exact board. Thanks

This is the latest and greatest
http://support.amd.com/en-us/download/chipset?os=Windows%208%20-%2032


----------



## markshim

I've already tried thos drivers and my computer kept freezing randomly and I would get this error Reset to device, \Device\RaidPort0, was issued amd _sata. event id 129


----------



## King Nothing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markshim*
> 
> I've already tried thos drivers and my computer kept freezing randomly and I would get this error Reset to device, \Device\RaidPort0, was issued amd _sata. event id 129


Last time I saw that error I believe a SATA port was bad. Try moving your OS drive to a differernt port.


----------



## markshim

But it only happens when I update it to that driver. I've rolled back to the motherboard drivers on the disc and it's gone ?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King Nothing*
> 
> Last time I saw that error I believe a SATA port was bad. Try moving your OS drive to a differernt port.


I can point you all over the place for this error take the error. Copy it into Google and trouble shoot. There are multiple problems that can cause the error.So there is no one answer. For this one

This is one and the easiest.

http://www.sevenforums.com/hardware-devices/170691-event-id-129-reset-device-device-raidport1-issued.html


----------



## markshim

I've just read something on this site saying if you don't have or use raid drivers or anything raid on your PC you should uninstall them and it should fix it?
http://www.overclock.net/t/197399/vista-warning-reset-to-device-device-raidport0-was-issued

Do you think it's the same ?


----------



## markshim

Just looked there's nothing saying raid in device manger to uninstall lol


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markshim*
> 
> Just looked there's nothing saying raid in device manger to uninstall lol


They are talking Nvidia drivers. Did you try re-seating the sata cable and or moving it. Also you do not have raid turned on in the bios or using raid. Let me check the manual and see if and where it pertains to raid.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> They are talking Nvidia drivers. Did you try re-seating the sata cable and or moving it. Also you do not have raid turned on in the bios or using raid. Let me check the manual and see if and where it pertains to raid.


Check this see if its in raid mode if so how many hard drives do you have on the board.

4.4.3 Setting the RAID item in BIOS
You must enable the RAID function in the BIOS Setup before creating RAID set(s) using SATA HDDs. To do this:
1. Enter the BIOS Setup during POST.
2. Go to the Advanced menu > SATA Configuration, and then press .
3. Set the SATA Mode item to [RAID Mode].
4. Save your changes, and then exit the BIOS Setup.

Due to chipset limitation, when set any of SATA ports to RAID mode, all SATA ports run at RAID mode together.


----------



## Nhb93

Anyone know why I can't get my Sabertooth 990FX to detect a third GPU? I updated to the most recent BIOS and have the latest AMD drivers as well.


----------



## markshim

I don't want to use raid tho just sata.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markshim*
> 
> I don't want to use raid tho just sata.


Make sure the raid is shut off in the bios. That may be where your problem is coming from.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nhb93*
> 
> Anyone know why I can't get my Sabertooth 990FX to detect a third GPU? I updated to the most recent BIOS and have the latest AMD drivers as well.


i assume you tried reseating both card and PCIE cabl, and verified third card is good ?


----------



## Nhb93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i assume you tried reseating both card and PCIE cabl, and verified third card is good ?


Just tried out all 3 cards individually, and all the slots. All work just fine. I did notice that two of the PCI slots (the second beige and the black, the middle 2) both show as PCI bus 5 in device manager.


----------



## Mega Man

i dunno tbh it shouldnt


----------



## Nhb93

Should I install it one card at a time? The first time I just put the first card in for the driver install, then added both of the other cards at once.


----------



## Mega Man

did you ever reinstall your drivers?


----------



## Nhb93

No, just the one install when I changed from Nvidia to AMD. I uninstalled the Nvidia drivers, shut down, switched cards, then installed the Catalyst drivers.


----------



## Mega Man

after installing the 3rd card?


----------



## Nhb93

Just when adding the first card, then I shut down after it worked, added the second 2, and then only one of them was detected. This is for folding, I know the 270 can't do tri-fire.


----------



## Mega Man

i would try to download the latest drivers from amd first with the card installed


----------



## thor2002ro

I wanted to ask you guys something I have the sabertooth r1 is it worth upgrading to r2?


----------



## Mega Man

imo no


----------



## thor2002ro

are you sure???? I'm bored as hell :| almost 2 years since I haven't touched mb/cpu/ram....


----------



## Mega Man

hehe i am sure the 2 just has. what iirc bios flashback direct bios button and a few other minor changes

get an apu and have some fun !


----------



## thor2002ro

I need raw cpu power... not a apu toy...
I use my pc for linux massive compile jobs that scale well with multiple threads


----------



## Mega Man

i never said to sell your current rig, make another, you can always use another pc !


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thor2002ro*
> 
> I wanted to ask you guys something I have the sabertooth r1 is it worth upgrading to r2?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> imo no
Click to expand...

Not unless you make a profit of sell the r1


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thor2002ro*
> 
> I wanted to ask you guys something I have the sabertooth r1 is it worth upgrading to r2?


Depends are you going to get a AMD FX 9730 or 9590. That would be the only reason to switch.


----------



## thor2002ro

i was thinking to upgrade because asus refuses to upgrade the cpu microcode of the r1... and its outdated... hell even r2 is a little outdated but not as much...


----------



## Mega Man

even then the r1 should be fine


----------



## thor2002ro

I see you have Gigabyte 990FXA-UD7 did they fix their vdrop? maybe I change it to Gigabyte ... I was even thinking about Asrock out of boredom....


----------



## Nhb93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i would try to download the latest drivers from amd first with the card installed


I uninstalled and reinstalled the drivers with all 3 cards installed and it works just fine now. Thanks for all the help. +Rep!


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i never said to sell your current rig, make another, you can always use another pc !


OMG that's how I ended up with 5 pc's in my house... I have one I need to sell.. its an old APU based unit... 3870K works pretty well.. but that MSI board in it doesn't inspire me to overclock... although I did push it to 3.3ghz from 3ghz stock... I may put it on ebay.. its actually a nice unit for anyone NOT in serious need of performance.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thor2002ro*
> 
> I see you have Gigabyte 990FXA-UD7 did they fix their vdrop? maybe I change it to Gigabyte ... I was even thinking about Asrock out of boredom....


i would not recommend it red1776 is a well respected member of this community and a reviewer, he knows his way around amd chips too, the saberkitty is the highest oc by ~ 100mghz even over the CVFz

i would stick with asus but if you really want to upgrade goto the CVFz it is alotta fun !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nhb93*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i would try to download the latest drivers from amd first with the card installed
> 
> 
> 
> I uninstalled and reinstalled the drivers with all 3 cards installed and it works just fine now. Thanks for all the help. +Rep!
Click to expand...

glad it helped, also i have been told to disable CFX before installing new drivers just a fyi i dont know why, but when tsm speaks about gpus, i listen
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i never said to sell your current rig, make another, you can always use another pc !
> 
> 
> 
> OMG that's how I ended up with 5 pc's in my house... I have one I need to sell.. its an old APU based unit... 3870K works pretty well.. but that MSI board in it doesn't inspire me to overclock... although I did push it to 3.3ghz from 3ghz stock... I may put it on ebay.. its actually a nice unit for anyone NOT in serious need of performance.
Click to expand...

hahaha i wont tell you my amount of pcs ! ( most are not complete anymore )


----------



## hucklebuck

What do these sensors mean in HwiNFo64? Vcore-1, Vcore-2, Temp7, Temp8, and NB HT? I would like to get a better understanding. Would help with oc'ing, when I put my loop together.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> What do these sensors mean in HwiNFo64? Vcore-1, Vcore-2, Temp7, Temp8, and NB HT? I would like to get a better understanding. Would help with oc'ing, when I put my loop together.


Voltage core 1 and 2 right behind the CPU. The big heat sink you see behind the CPU thats them and can affect your temps on the CPU. 7 and 8 probably the video cards or Hard drives(these change from machine to machine). NB =Northbridge right under the CPU









When you get the board up install AI suite 2. Thermal radar so you can see the locations of the sensors.


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Voltage core 1 and 2 right behind the CPU. The big heat sink you see behind the CPU thats them and can affect your temps on the CPU. 7 and 8 probably the video cards or Hard drives(these change from machine to machine). NB =Northbridge right under the CPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you get the board up install AI suite 2. Thermal radar so you can see the locations of the sensors.


I have had this up and running for awhile. Just not underwater.

So the vcore1 and vcore2 are the vrms? Temp7 and Temp8 are not the video cards or hdd they are a different temperature. Is NB HT the Hypertransport temp, or is it the NB? Just thought the HT signified something.

I did have AI Suite running when I got the board but it kept giving me problems, so I removed it.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> I have had this up and running for awhile. Just not underwater.
> 
> So the vcore1 and vcore2 are the vrms? Temp7 and Temp8 are not the video cards or hdd they are a different temperature. Is NB HT the Hypertransport temp, or is it the NB? Just thought the HT signified something.
> 
> I did have AI Suite running when I got the board but it kept giving me problems, so I removed it.


So the vcore1 and vcore2 are the vrms? Correct









Hyper transportation Link









7 and 8 maybe motherboard .USB ,DRAM,PCIE 1 and 2 right behind the video cards there's a lot of sensors on the sabertooth


----------



## Minotaurtoo

CPU Power Thermal Control

Ok.. this may be a dumb question and I may have just overlooked it... but what does this do exactly? and what does the numbers represent exactly.. surely they are not in C lol... but if not then what?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> 
> CPU Power Thermal Control
> 
> Ok.. this may be a dumb question and I may have just overlooked it... but what does this do exactly? and what does the numbers represent exactly.. surely they are not in C lol... but if not then what?


Not sure what the number means but the higher the number the wider range allowed for thermal on socket/cpu prevents the damage to the CPU power delivery components


----------



## Minotaurtoo

so basically, unless I'm having throttling issues... leave it at the lowest then... ok.. was wondering what that did.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> so basically, unless I'm having throttling issues... leave it at the lowest then... ok.. was wondering what that did.


In short yes


----------



## Archea47

Hey gang,

I realize I still owe you guys & gals detailed pics and instructions on watercooling the NB and VRMs on the Sabertooth. In the mean time ...

Maximum values after 10 passes on IBT AVX @ 5.0Ghz with VCore 1.56-1.584
VCORE-1: 41.0*C
VCORE-2: 33.0*C
NB HT: 31.0*C
(CPU: 48.0*C / CPU0: 49.8*C)


----------



## Minotaurtoo

nice... that's something I might actually consider doing....depending on how my vrm's handle when I get my cpu under water.


----------



## thor2002ro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i would not recommend it red1776 is a well respected member of this community and a reviewer, he knows his way around amd chips too, the saberkitty is the highest oc by ~ 100mghz even over the CVFz
> 
> i would stick with asus but if you really want to upgrade goto the CVFz it is alotta fun !
> glad it helped, also i have been told to disable CFX before installing new drivers just a fyi i dont know why, but when tsm speaks about gpus, i listen
> hahaha i wont tell you my amount of pcs ! ( most are not complete anymore )


I upgraded to R2 got on a local ebay like site paid a little over 100$ mint condition with 3 year warranty... really happy with the purchase...
and I can tell you R1 to R2 is worth it... my cpu is more stable at lower voltages.... my ram is more stable... on R1 I had to play with the settings like crazy to get a stable-ish 32gb ram working right...
on R2 all i did was set the voltage, speed , timings and all works stable... really happy









also been thinking to fiddle with the bios structure for a while now... upgrade different components... now I can because I have bios flashback









bottom line if anyone asks...







R1 to R2 WORTH IT!!!!


----------



## hucklebuck

What's the maximum NB, not CPU/NB voltage this board can handle. I have heard some people get more stable OC's with it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> What's the maximum NB, not CPU/NB voltage this board can handle. I have heard some people get more stable OC's with it.


you dont need to go far i usually use 1.2 but i am running 1.25 on the ud7 as it is watercooled, 1.2 should max you out though


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you dont need to go far i usually use 1.2 but i am running 1.25 on the ud7 as it is watercooled, 1.2 should max you out though


false

Is your NB watercooled, air cooled? If I oc it alittle like 1.2 should I increase its cooling too? I just went custom water and love it.







I have an 8320 and it is taking lots of volts to oc so far. Just looking for little tweaks to try and get me to 5Ghz, if that will even happen. I'm gonna try.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you dont need to go far i usually use 1.2 but i am running 1.25 on the ud7 as it is *watercooled*, 1.2 should max you out though
> 
> 
> 
> false
> 
> Is your NB watercooled, air cooled? If I oc it alittle like 1.2 should I increase its cooling too? I just went custom water and love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have an 8320 and it is taking lots of volts to oc so far. Just looking for little tweaks to try and get me to 5Ghz, if that will even happen. I'm gonna try.
Click to expand...

huh? what about that is false?

you do realize the northbridge is on the board and not the 8350? so again i ask what is false about it? if i can run 300fsb 2400 ram 2700 cpu/nb and 3900 ht on 1.2 then how is it going to help you get 5ghz to up nb volts more? your welcome to try, but yea. odds are low that you need to up NB volts. you have been in this thread a long time, as i always have advocated running at least a fan on the vrms/nb

as for me as i said in the post you quoted, my ud7 is on water so i run 1.25 just because, however it is stable @ 1.2


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> huh? what about that is false?
> 
> you do realize the northbridge is on the board and not the 8350? so again i ask what is false about it? if i can run 300fsb 2400 ram 2700 cpu/nb and 3900 ht on 1.2 then how is it going to help you get 5ghz to up nb volts more? your welcome to try, but yea. odds are low that you need to up NB volts. you have been in this thread a long time, as i always have advocated running at least a fan on the vrms/nb
> 
> as for me as i said in the post you quoted, my ud7 is on water so i run 1.25 just because, however it is stable @ 1.2


I never wrote "false". I have noticed that sometimes it says that when I post, but it doesn't show up in the actual post. Don't know why? Maybe I should speak to an Admin about that. I apologize for the confusion and welcome your comments.

Now, yes I do understand that the NB is on the motherboard and is separate from CPU/NB which is on the processor. I do have a fan on the vrms and on the back of the socket. But do I need a fan or waterblock for the the NB if I clock it to 1.2v? Does upping the NB volts help with stability or even getting a higher oc?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> huh? what about that is false?
> 
> you do realize the northbridge is on the board and not the 8350? so again i ask what is false about it? if i can run 300fsb 2400 ram 2700 cpu/nb and 3900 ht on 1.2 then how is it going to help you get 5ghz to up nb volts more? your welcome to try, but yea. odds are low that you need to up NB volts. you have been in this thread a long time, as i always have advocated running at least a fan on the vrms/nb
> 
> as for me as i said in the post you quoted, my ud7 is on water so i run 1.25 just because, however it is stable @ 1.2
> 
> 
> 
> I never wrote "false". I have noticed that sometimes it says that when I post, but it doesn't show up in the actual post. Don't know why? Maybe I should speak to an Admin about that. I apologize for the confusion and welcome your comments.
> 
> Now, yes I do understand that the NB is on the motherboard and is separate from CPU/NB which is on the processor. I do have a fan on the vrms and on the back of the socket. But do I need a fan or waterblock for the the NB if I clock it to 1.2v? Does upping the NB volts help with stability or even getting a higher oc?
Click to expand...

ah sorry then ! cpu/nb to 1.2 should be plenty for your oc

the fan on your VRMs should be enough to cool it without issue


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ah sorry then ! cpu/nb to 1.2 should be plenty for your oc
> 
> the fan on your VRMs should be enough to cool it without issue


Now how about just NB(motherboard) volts? Whats safe voltage for it? Does it require any active cooling on it?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ah sorry then ! cpu/nb to 1.2 should be plenty for your oc
> 
> the fan on your VRMs should be enough to cool it without issue
> 
> 
> 
> Now how about just NB(motherboard) volts? Whats safe voltage for it? Does it require any active cooling on it?
Click to expand...

my bad i ment NB * not CPU/NB


----------



## Minotaurtoo

F3ERS 2 ASH3S pointed this out to me... but on this board if you are doing extreme OC'ing and are aiming at cpu vcore approaching 1.6 or higher... disable the monitoring of the cpu vcore or you will likely experience sudden shutdowns... it caused me a headache trying to stabilize 5 ghz ...


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> F3ERS 2 ASH3S pointed this out to me... but on this board if you are doing extreme OC'ing and are aiming at cpu vcore approaching 1.6 or higher... disable the monitoring of the cpu vcore or you will likely experience sudden shutdowns... it caused me a headache trying to stabilize 5 ghz ...


How do you "disable the monitoring of the cpu vcore" ? And what risks am I taking when doing so?

So far I am up to 4.7Ghz. and when it's under load I am pushing 1.5v That's what it takes to be stable.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> How do you "disable the monitoring of the cpu vcore" ? And what risks am I taking when doing so?
> 
> So far I am up to 4.7Ghz. and when it's under load I am pushing 1.5v That's what it takes to be stable.


You disable it in the the monitoring area of the BIOS, As far as the risks you are basically turning off the volte/heat protection that is built in to the mobo protection for the socket. So only do so if you really know what you are doing.


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> You disable it in the the monitoring area of the BIOS, As far as the risks you are basically turning off the volte/heat protection that is built in to the mobo protection for the socket. So only do so if you really know what you are doing.


Can you show me a bios screenshot of it?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Can you show me a bios screenshot of it?


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*


Thanks.







Good to have the info on hand.

+ Rep

Is the Raystorm kit all you have for cooling?


----------



## DancingOnAshes

Has anyone here tried the FX-9590 and how did that go for them?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good to have the info on hand.
> 
> + Rep
> 
> Is the Raystorm kit all you have for cooling?


For now plus a lot of fans


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DancingOnAshes*
> 
> Has anyone here tried the FX-9590 and how did that go for them?


some have and it works fine if that is what you mean, my 8350 was a "9590"


----------



## DancingOnAshes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> some have and it works fine if that is what you mean, my 8350 was a "9590"


Could you clarify please? I've been out of the computer hardware loop for a while due to personal problems.


----------



## Mega Man

8350 oced = 9590

same chip different clocks, assuming you can hit the clocks, they tend to oc better is all


----------



## hucklebuck

At what temperature do the VRM's throttle on the Sabertooth 990FX 2.0? What's a good temperature to keep them at?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> At what temperature do the VRM's throttle on the Sabertooth 990FX 2.0? What's a good temperature to keep them at?


I think 90 to 100

Just put a fan in them and you will be good


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DancingOnAshes*
> 
> Could you clarify please? I've been out of the computer hardware loop for a while due to personal problems.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 8350 oced = 9590
> 
> same chip different clocks, assuming you can hit the clocks, they tend to oc better is all


9590 works fine up to 5.1/5.2 GHZ stable. usually mine sits at 5GHZ stable. Not way over clockable like the 8350 4.2 to 5.0GHZ. Think I might have to check the over voltage protection on the board hope I shut it off. Think I hit it at times or close.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DancingOnAshes*
> 
> Could you clarify please? I've been out of the computer hardware loop for a while due to personal problems.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 8350 oced = 9590
> 
> same chip different clocks, assuming you can hit the clocks, they tend to oc better is all
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 9590 works fine up to 5.1/5.2 GHZ stable. usually mine sits at 5GHZ stable. Not way over clockable like the 8350 4.2 to 5.0GHZ. Think I might have to check the over voltage protection on the board hope I shut it off. Think I hit it at times or close.
Click to expand...

o you will know it will tell you when you reboot


----------



## Minotaurtoo

random question... anyone ever try FSB speeds 400 or higher? just an idle curiosity, haven't tried over 300 yet myself


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> o you will know it will tell you when you reboot


Is that where the overclocked fails come from every so often. After I restart


----------



## Mega Man

you cant go over 400. and yes, never successfully i might add 350ish was the highest i was able to boot, never said it was stable


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I suspected it wouldn't make it that high... but then I don't know everything lol. thanks.


----------



## Archea47

Can you dig it?


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Can you dig it?


How well does it work? What pump(s) do you use?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> How well does it work? What pump(s) do you use?


I use an EK DCP 4.0

Works well I believe - here are some stats I posted in this thread last weekend (read from HWINFO64):

Maximum values after 10 passes on IBT AVX @ 5.0Ghz with VCore 1.56-1.584
VCORE-1: 41.0*C
VCORE-2: 33.0*C
NB HT: 31.0*C
(CPU: 48.0*C / CPU0: 49.8*C)

With 1.6V and some more FSB VCORE-1 had a spike to 51*C but was usually in the high 40s during IBT AVX


----------



## DancingOnAshes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Can you dig it?


Hmm, wonder how that would look with a solid tubing setup.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

nice... currently, vcore and NB are still not my hot spots at high OC... I do have fans on them though.. but socket temp is now my new worst enemy lol.. at volts approaching 1.6 socket will hit near 70C in about 10mins on prime... core temps stay in the low 50's ... any ideas on watercooling the socket? lol


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I use an EK DCP 4.0
> 
> Works well I believe - here are some stats I posted in this thread last weekend (read from HWINFO64):
> 
> Maximum values after 10 passes on IBT AVX @ 5.0Ghz with VCore 1.56-1.584
> VCORE-1: 41.0*C
> VCORE-2: 33.0*C
> NB HT: 31.0*C
> (CPU: 48.0*C / CPU0: 49.8*C)
> 
> With 1.6V and some more FSB VCORE-1 had a spike to 51*C but was usually in the high 40s during IBT AVX


I was thinking it would have added restriction to the loop, making it somewhat ineffective. But the temps don't lie.

1 pump runs all that?

I would like to do this. What did you use for thermal compound, pads or paste?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> nice... currently, vcore and NB are still not my hot spots at high OC... I do have fans on them though.. but socket temp is now my new worst enemy lol.. at volts approaching 1.6 socket will hit near 70C in about 10mins on prime... core temps stay in the low 50's ... any ideas on watercooling the socket? lol


i am working on one, but it will be a while yet
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I use an EK DCP 4.0
> 
> Works well I believe - here are some stats I posted in this thread last weekend (read from HWINFO64):
> 
> Maximum values after 10 passes on IBT AVX @ 5.0Ghz with VCore 1.56-1.584
> VCORE-1: 41.0*C
> VCORE-2: 33.0*C
> NB HT: 31.0*C
> (CPU: 48.0*C / CPU0: 49.8*C)
> 
> With 1.6V and some more FSB VCORE-1 had a spike to 51*C but was usually in the high 40s during IBT AVX
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking it would have added restriction to the loop, making it somewhat ineffective. But the temps don't lie.
> 
> 1 pump runs all that?
> 
> I would like to do this. What did you use for thermal compound, pads or paste?
Click to expand...

gpuys blocks are the most restrictive in my experience. and even then 2-3 is fine on one pump. going in parallel with all is a different matter...


----------



## HUSK3R

Hey guys, not posted in a long time. I figured this would be the best place to ask this question. I have a Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 and i want to add motherboard blocks to the custom water cooling. What blocks do i need??? I've tried searching for the CHC-125 but its discontinued. Any other blocks that will fit??? I think it's the MVR 100 i can get easily, it's just finding an equivalent to the CHC-125.

Thanks.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> nice... currently, vcore and NB are still not my hot spots at high OC... I do have fans on them though.. but socket temp is now my new worst enemy lol.. at volts approaching 1.6 socket will hit near 70C in about 10mins on prime... core temps stay in the low 50's ... any ideas on watercooling the socket? lol


If you look at my socket temps (CPU) are a tad lower than the package temp ... could still be coming off the VRMs?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> 1 pump runs all that?
> 
> I would like to do this. What did you use for thermal compound, pads or paste?


TIM in the CPU, NB, and between the VRM block and the VRM plate is Gelid GC Extreme. The stuff is thick so I bag and submerge the tube in hot water for a while before using (got the idea here)

For thermal pads on the VRMs I re-used the stock backplate material and used the pad that came with the heat plate
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HUSK3R*
> 
> Hey guys, not posted in a long time. I figured this would be the best place to ask this question. I have a Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 and i want to add motherboard blocks to the custom water cooling. What blocks do i need??? I've tried searching for the CHC-125 but its discontinued. Any other blocks that will fit??? I think it's the MVR 100 i can get easily, it's just finding an equivalent to the CHC-125.


Part numbers are in my sig-rig - FrozenCPU had them as of a month ago. They require some modification - you'll need a drill (preferably a drill press and a transfer punch) with I believe it was a 3/16" drill bit for the VRM cooler and an angle or die grinder (or dremel or perhaps a hacksaw and vice) for the NB block


----------



## arcticchill360

Hey all, I currently have an asus sabertooth gen 3 r 2, ive seen some reviews about windows 8.1 performing a little bit better with it than with win 7 cause of the core scheduler but on asus website it only says compatable with win 8 does any 1 have this board with win 8.1 running so i know it will work b4 i buy??


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> If you look at my socket temps (CPU) are a tad lower than the package temp ... could still be coming off the VRMs?


its not until I run prime or IBT for a long time that my socket starts to out run my core temps so I don't know if that's the case or not... may be..


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arcticchill360*
> 
> Hey all, I currently have an asus sabertooth gen 3 r 2, ive seen some reviews about windows 8.1 performing a little bit better with it than with win 7 cause of the core scheduler but on asus website it only says compatable with win 8 does any 1 have this board with win 8.1 running so i know it will work b4 i buy??


8.1 is 8 with a service pack... you are fine


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> 8.1 is 8 with a service pack... you are fine


This has little to do with the OP's situation, but....

I think its a bit more than a service pack... at this point I've actually run into situations where keys for 8.1 would not activate 8 and vice versa.... and I noticed that the changes are a bit more extensive than just a normal service pack... I think what MS did was put out a piece of crap OS and then cover it up by releasing a "service pack" that literally is a new OS... the nice bit is though you can download it for free...most of the time... some versions of 8 will not upgrade to 8.1... ran into that one too. funny the things I run into working on peoples PC's here that MS didn't bother to warn me about. But, that's just my opinion based on evidence I've seen.. I haven't gotten any official release from MS yet declaring it a separate OS... just the way they are treating it and the way it behaves... oh and like upgrading from one OS to another... some of my programs quit working and can not be re-installed... because they removed some of the older functions that was in 8... microsoft.net 1.1 being the culprit in this case.... Thank heavens for VM's


----------



## Archea47

Hey gang,

Does the slot distance on the Sabertooth work with an Ek bridge?

Something like this:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16964/ex-blc-1213/EK_FC_Bridge_Dual_Parallel_CSQ_-_SLI_Connection_-_Plexi_EK-FC_Bridge_DUAL_Parallel_CSQ_Plexi.html?id=nCyHkDtq&mv_pc=7004#blank


----------



## Mega Man

all pcie slots are the same length ( or how would it work with your case )

count the slots ! remember to count blank ones


----------



## DancingOnAshes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hey gang,
> 
> Does the slot distance on the Sabertooth work with an Ek bridge?
> 
> Something like this:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16964/ex-blc-1213/EK_FC_Bridge_Dual_Parallel_CSQ_-_SLI_Connection_-_Plexi_EK-FC_Bridge_DUAL_Parallel_CSQ_Plexi.html?id=nCyHkDtq&mv_pc=7004#blank


Remember that for 2x GPU the manual recommends that you use the First and Third PCIe x16 slot, so you'll probably want one of these instead: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-bridge-dual-parallel-3-slot-csq-1.html

I may be wrong about this though, if anyone wants to correct me.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DancingOnAshes*
> 
> Remember that for 2x GPU the manual recommends that you use the First and Third PCIe x16 slot, so you'll probably want one of these instead: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-bridge-dual-parallel-3-slot-csq-1.html
> 
> I may be wrong about this though, if anyone wants to correct me.


that'll work. there are many you can choose from, what card blocks do you have, I believe that will dictate your choices.


----------



## simsim44

If I order a kitty today (I actually ordered it yesterday it's listed as a 2.0) which version will I get the Gen 3 or just the R2.0, from the egg. just curious,

Edit
what's the difference besides the heat sink in the middle of the board. also is one better than the other I have a 9590.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DancingOnAshes*
> 
> Remember that for 2x GPU the manual recommends that you use the First and Third PCIe x16 slot, so you'll probably want one of these instead: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-bridge-dual-parallel-3-slot-csq-1.html
> 
> I may be wrong about this though, if anyone wants to correct me.


Good catch, Thanks!


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> If I order a kitty today (I actually ordered it yesterday it's listed as a 2.0) which version will I get the Gen 3 or just the R2.0, from the egg. just curious,
> 
> Edit
> what's the difference besides the heat sink in the middle of the board. also is one better than the other I have a 9590.


Chances are a R2. The R3 was limited.


----------



## PiEownz

I recently got a FX-8320 and I just got back my RMA'd sabertooth 990fx from ASUS. I overclocked it to 4.2GHz at 1.38v and it's currently stable now.

The weird thing was that the CPU/NB voltage was at 1.4v at stock which kind of confused me because I thought stock voltage for CPU/NB was supposed to be around 1.2v

Is it supposed to be 1.4v at stock? I did change it to 1.28v when I overclocked it to 4.2GHz

Edit: Is 64 Celsius normal for the load temps?


----------



## Mega Man

yes some asus bios default it to 1.4v update your bios or dont use auto volts


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Chances are a R2. The R3 was limited.


It came as a 2.0, now to tear out the junk and install what I should have from the beginning, ASUS!


----------



## simsim44

Ok guys I have a couple of questions
1 what is a TB Header
2 what is the best fan header for my fan hub input, I have an Enthoo Primo case.


----------



## Mega Man

1 thunderbolt header ( not really mainstream and quite pricy )

2 up to you !


----------



## hucklebuck

How much power can each fan header take safely on the Sabertooth? I was thinking of hooking up a few small fans for the NB and VRM's to one header maybe the cpu fan header.


----------



## Gandalf_Sr

I built my system from Newegg in October 2013 as follows:

_Cooler Master HAF 932 Case
Corsair TX750M Modular PSU
ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 Motherboard
AMD FX4350 Vishera 4.2 GHz CPU
Sapphire 100364L Radeon R9 270X 2GB GPU
Corsair Vengeance 2x4 GB CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9R PC1600 DDR3
Samsung 840 EVO 120 GB SSD
WD Black WD5003AZEX HDD
Samsung SH-224DB SATA DVD Burner
Windows 7 Pro 64 Bit OS_

It's been running fine until recently when it hung - full reboot back to the BIOS boot screen - happened while I was playing Blacklight Retribution (which I've played a LOT over the last few months with no issues). It only hangs when I'm running graphics so I'm guessing it's either the PSU or graphics card.

Today I did some investigation, here's some data:
1. The BIOS is running at the lowest 'auto' setting
2. Tried forcing memory down to 1333 from 1666 but it hung again.
3. Installed Asus CPU-Z and the CPU screen shows the Core Voltage jumping around between 1.1 and 1.3 volts, it occasionally hits 1.092 volts
4. Loaded and ran 3D Mark Demo Direct X 11, as soon as it had installed the components and tried to jump to the graphics mode, the system hung - full reboot back to the BIOS boot screen - which makes me think it *isn't* a problem with BL Retribution.
5. My BIOS is at 1503, there is an update available to 1604
6. The PSU made 'growling' noises when I first got it - noisy inductors I think - but it seemed to work OK
7. It runs OK in normal use - I'm using it to write this message.

*Ideas/Questions*
A. Should the CPU core voltage be a steady voltage or is the CPU / MOBO adjusting it automatically?
B. Should I upgrade the BIOS?
C. What should I check first?


----------



## Mega Man

how is your pc cooled? how long since you cleaned the gpu heat sink when was the last time you changed drivers


----------



## Gandalf_Sr

Cooled by air, stock cooler. The Windows drivers have been updating themselves. Going to take it apart to look things over.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 thunderbolt header ( not really mainstream and quite pricy )
> 
> 2 up to you !


Thanks +rep

Edit; validation


----------



## Minotaurtoo

this board is indestructible... got some fancy cooling... set it up in push pull (120x360 rad, raystorm waterblock and xspc D5 vario pump for those who don't know) and now can push the cpu so hard that my PSU shuts down when benching with gpu and cpu at max stable OC... lol... but the board is good... never even broke a sweat... note: I did have to put fans on the vrm's though to keep them from going over 80C... but from what I've heard that wouldn't hurt them anyway.... sadly... now I'm considering a second PSU to help out by putting the gpu on it... and maybe a second radiator to help the chip stay cool... still muddling with the idea of a 9590, but just can justify it... funny that I can justify all this other stuff lol.. oh, and push pull on the rad made a difference, but not as much as I was hoping... mostly helped out when the cpu was under full stress.. in game temps and such didn't really change...


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> this board is indestructible... got some fancy cooling... set it up in push pull (120x360 rad, raystorm waterblock and xspc D5 vario pump for those who don't know) and now can push the cpu so hard that my PSU shuts down when benching with gpu and cpu at max stable OC... lol... but the board is good... never even broke a sweat... note: I did have to put fans on the vrm's though to keep them from going over 80C... but from what I've heard that wouldn't hurt them anyway.... sadly... now I'm considering a second PSU to help out by putting the gpu on it... and maybe a second radiator to help the chip stay cool... still muddling with the idea of a 9590, but just can justify it... funny that I can justify all this other stuff lol.. oh, and push pull on the rad made a difference, but not as much as I was hoping... mostly helped out when the cpu was under full stress.. in game temps and such didn't really change...


Vrm fan thought I would just try this out , now I am going to order another one. before and after have not seen a temp over 34c


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Vrm fan thought I would just try this out , now I am going to order another one. before and after have not seen a temp over 34c
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looks nice... I have a 120mm fan on mine... with blue led's too lol.. mines blowing across the vrm's from below where cool air is being forced into the case... haven't gotten over 55C since I put the fan in so I'm pretty happy... I need a better way of cooling the socket.. my case is a bit limited in space behind the board so a fan back there was nearly impossible...but I did manage to get some airflow, but not enough to prime 5ghz + for long... ITB on standard has been the test of choice for those clocks due to the socket heat... in game even at 5ghz the socket temp does ok, reaches near 60C after a few hours of gaming, cores usually hover in the 40's to 50's, but short peak temps above 60 have happened... but I'm having to run volts above 1.62 to get 5 ghz stable... although I can bench and game just fine with 1.57 vcore @ 5ghz...


----------



## simsim44

I just got the board up and running after my crossover from the Gigabyte UD-7(junk) so I have to get it set up I bumped up a couple of things straight out of the box 24.0/210/1.55v (I think) [email protected],I haven't started to mess with the ram I did manage to validate with cpuz bottom of page 635 of this thread


----------



## Gandalf_Sr

I'm thinking my hard resets when driving the graphics card hard are my PSU on its way out; what model are you guys using?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> this board is indestructible... got some fancy cooling... set it up in push pull (120x360 rad, raystorm waterblock and xspc D5 vario pump for those who don't know) and now can push the cpu so hard that my PSU shuts down when benching with gpu and cpu at max stable OC... lol... but the board is good... never even broke a sweat... note: I did have to put fans on the vrm's though to keep them from going over 80C... but from what I've heard that wouldn't hurt them anyway.... sadly... now I'm considering a second PSU to help out by putting the gpu on it... and maybe a second radiator to help the chip stay cool... still muddling with the idea of a 9590, but just can justify it... funny that I can justify all this other stuff lol.. oh, and push pull on the rad made a difference, but not as much as I was hoping... mostly helped out when the cpu was under full stress.. in game temps and such didn't really change...


Almost indestructable.. I broke my NB sensor


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Almost indestructable.. I broke my NB sensor


lol how did you do that ? I've burnt a board of two over the years stressing it to far... but this on keeps on trucking


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> lol how did you do that ? I've burnt a board of two over the years stressing it to far... but this on keeps on trucking


+

Its a solid board.. not too sure I almost bet you I did something stupid though


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gandalf_Sr*
> 
> I'm thinking my hard resets when driving the graphics card hard are my PSU on its way out; what model are you guys using?


PSU? AX1200
Graphics cards? twin Sapphire R9-280X (in crossfire)

this is what I'm running.

Edit;
http://valid.canardpc.com/8e08dq


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gandalf_Sr*
> 
> I'm thinking my hard resets when driving the graphics card hard are my PSU on its way out; what model are you guys using?


1000W EVGA Supernova G2 here w/ two Gigabyte R9 280x and a 5+Ghz 8350

You should make a sig rig using the Rigbuilder link on the upper right of this page so we know what parts you have to power


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gandalf_Sr*
> 
> I'm thinking my hard resets when driving the graphics card hard are my PSU on its way out; what model are you guys using?
> 
> 
> 
> 1000W EVGA Supernova G2 here w/ two Gigabyte R9 280x and a 5+Ghz 8350
> 
> You should make a sig rig using the Rigbuilder link on the upper right of this page so we know what parts you have to power
Click to expand...

2x xfx 1250w !!


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gandalf_Sr*
> 
> I'm thinking my hard resets when driving the graphics card hard are my PSU on its way out; what model are you guys using?


1 rosewill capstone 750 w 2x xfx 280x and 8350 at 5.1 1.68v I think I'm almost at my limit


----------



## Gandalf_Sr

Thanks for all the suggestions guys, I've ordered a new PSU but it's only a Seasonic M12II 750 SS-750AM2 750W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Full-modular Power Supply New 4th Gen CPU Certified Haswell Ready which has pretty good reviews; I didn't want to get another Corsair because of the failure.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151107

I don't plan to put dual cards in my PC but I may try an overclock, the CPU I've got is supposed to be pretty capable for OC.

The BIOS suggests that the +12V is running around 11.2 volts and I recall that there was an odd popping sound from my system a few weeks back; I've looked but I can't see any obvious damage to anything on the MOBO or in the PSU.

I removed and then reinstalled the latest Catalyst video drivers, the machine then ran OK for an hour but then hard-crashed on intensive graphics action.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gandalf_Sr*
> 
> Thanks for all the suggestions guys, I've ordered a new PSU but it's only a Seasonic M12II 750 SS-750AM2 750W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Full-modular Power Supply New 4th Gen CPU Certified Haswell Ready which has pretty good reviews; I didn't want to get another Corsair because of the failure.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151107
> 
> I don't plan to put dual cards in my PC but I may try an overclock, the CPU I've got is supposed to be pretty capable for OC.
> 
> The BIOS suggests that the +12V is running around 11.2 volts and I recall that there was an odd popping sound from my system a few weeks back; I've looked but I can't see any obvious damage to anything on the MOBO or in the PSU.
> 
> I removed and then reinstalled the latest Catalyst video drivers, the machine then ran OK for an hour but then hard-crashed on intensive graphics action.


dont trust software use a multimeter and find out


----------



## Archea47

Added some heatsinks to the larger chokes on the motherboard, at the VRMs, RAM and NB


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Added some heatsinks to the larger chokes on the motherboard, at the VRMs, RAM and NB


What size and kind tubing do you use? Your pc looks nice.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> What size and kind tubing do you use? Your pc looks nice.


Thanks hucklebuck! I appreciate that

The tubing is Primochill Advance LRT, 3/8" x 1/2". Considering the inside diameter of the fittings and especially the inside of the blocks I didn't see any purpose in using larger than 3/8" ID tubing. I previously had some 3/8" x 5/8" for the tighter bends but it looks better with all the same size tubing


----------



## ky600T

so where are the Gen3's I have been looking all over the place. and Asus just say they are on back order. I was lucky to get my hands on one with a 8350FX. and if they where limited like the box said how many where ever sold I wonder?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ky600T*
> 
> so where are the Gen3's I have been looking all over the place. and Asus just say they are on back order. I was lucky to get my hands on one with a 8350FX. and if they where limited like the box said how many where ever sold I wonder?


That's awesome, ky600T!

Biggest single improvement I see is the cmos battery in the bottom right instead of under the first video card







And it looks like I'll have to put a heatsink on my USB3 chip (assuming that's what's under there by the RAM). Otherwise the components look 95% the same in terms of VRM, choke and capacitor placing


----------



## ky600T

yes the usb 3.0 header is between 24pin and video card. and beside the ram. the system rundown is:

AMD 8350 FX
Corsair 600T Silver Gray case Modded for better airflow and radiator to located under the grill. (so all you see is fans on the inside. and to help noise)
Asus 990FX Gen 3 . sold out on newegg and had to grab mine off amazon from our Northern Friends from Canada.
Asus GTX 770 2gb. and wonderfully they release the 4gb like 2 weeks ago and plan on going sli with 2 of the 4gb when price goes back down
Corsair Vengeance DDR3 32gb 1866
Corsair H100i
Corsair AX850
Corsair AF 120mm quiet
Corsair SP120mm High Performance
Samsung 840 Pro 256gb ssd have the 2.5 to 3.5 converter to hold one more if I choose
WD Black 3tb will be adding another one soon
NZXT usb 2.0 expander
NZXT RGB HUE led

the case is the latest 600T model and not the early model first ones came with the black 200mm fans I replaced the led fan to that black one so the led kit would do all the lighting. the white led fan washed out the colors. the last mod I will do to this case is the 3/4" acrylic side panel

I was also very lucky to been able to buy everything on sale through out the past 6 months to get it to where it is now. just this week the ram jumped $120 more then what I paid for it. patience and jumping on the deals at the right moment. I'm just so glad I bought the mobo when I did. the funny thing was the day I got my mobo in. newwegg notified me that the board was instock on friday. and buy Sunday it was out of stock and was never sold again.


----------



## Archea47

Hello all,

First, I got this information thanks to a couple sparse posts in the Sabertooth 990FX owners club - many thanks to those involved. From what I could gather there was one person who had done this on the original board and one on the Rev2.0 that I have.

Second, I posted this on a thread separate from the Sabertooth 990FX club thread so that it's easier to find on Google for those like me (and you) in the future that are having a hard time getting the info otherwise. You can find that post here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1468642/how-to-watercool-the-asus-990fx-sabertooth-rev2-0-vrms-and-nb

Third, be aware that this requires some metalworking tools. If you don't have the facility to perform the modifications yourself any local machine shop should be able to do it for you quite cheaply.

Finally, this is for the Rev2.0. Looking at pictures of the Rev2.0 Gen3 this should also apply, but I cannot confirm that. Reading results from the Rev1 example I saw, modifying the NB cooler may be slightly different.

*The Problem*
Despite the ASUS Sabertooth 990FX being one of the premium AM3+ boards for overclocking there are no pre-made watercooling solutions for it. Improved cooling, whether achieved through air cooling the original heatsinks or pursuing watercooling, is recommended to offset the heat created by . We will be solving this using generic off the shelf components with some modification.

*The Parts*
Required:
*Koolance MVR-100*
*Koolance MVR-PLT140*
*Koolance CHC-122*
Optional:
10x10mm copper or aluminum heatsinks (and adhesive thermal pad if not included)

*Preparation*
*Removing the original cooler*
On the Rev2.0 the Voltage Regulation Module (VRM) cooler and Northbridge (NB) cooler are one item, as the two large heatsinks are joined by a heat pipe. Two screws hold the VRM portion of the cooler to a backing plate on the rearside of the motherboard, which has studded threads. The Northbridge also has two screws, which thread into studs that are themselves threaded into the motherboard. Remove all four screws and you will be able to remove the cooler, being careful to retain all the screws and their springs The thermal paste on the NB is fairly adhesive so it will take some pressure to lift it.

Here's what it looks like when you succeed:


On the reverse side of the motherboard are small threaded studs for the NB and the backing plate with studs for the VRMs. Here's what the underside of the VRM area looks like with the VRM backplate removed:


*Modification*
*Modifying the NB cooler*
The only problem with adapting this part to your Sabertooth 990FX is that one of the mounting arms will interfere with capacitors that help deliver power to the NB. I believe the arms are made of chromoly steel. I used an angle grinder to cut an approximately 3/4" off of one of the arms to give a generous amount of clearance. I then finished it with a metal file - don't worry the metal keeps its appearance after filing. The area you have to modify is outlined in the following image:


*Modifying the VRM cooler*
The issue here is compatibility with the stock VRM backplate and spacing relative to the VRM chokes (the 12x12x12mm metal components under the black portion of the original cooler). You will have to drill through the MVR-PLT140 (made of nickel-plated copper) to match the mounting of the original cooler. To do this I clamped the MVR-PLT140 to the original cooler and used a transfer punch to mark the locations to drill. I believe the size bit required was 3/16", but start smaller and work your way up until the stud on the original backplate can fit through your hole. As it's copper you will probably have to countersink your holes for the studs to insert smoothly. Best practice here is to mark and drill the first hole, then put the drill bit through the stock cooler and the first hole drilled in the plate and use the transfer plate to mark the second hole so that the two holes are spaced perfectly in relation to each other. I used a drill press and a heavy clamp to make the holes and keep the transfer plate in place. The final result looks like this:


Keep in mind that where you drill the holes will affect where it mounts on the motherboard in relation to the VRM chokes. There isn't a lot of clearance so please take care - it may be best to buy two of them to be safe.


*Assembly*
*Moounting the VRM cooler*
After cleaning both surfaces with alcohol, use Thermal Interface Material (TIM) like you would on the Integrated Heat Sink (IHS) of a CPU between the MVR-100 and MVR-PLT140 when bolting them together. Remove any thermal pad material remaining from the stock cooler on the VRMs, cleaning them with alcohol and a q-tip if necessary. Some people like to apply TIM to the VRMs; I did not do this. The MVR-PLT140 comes with a thermal pad - apply this to the bottom of the MVR-PLT140 on the opposite face of where you bolted the MVR-100. My stock backplate's thermal pad was intact after removal so I reused this. Install the backplate on the motherboard by sliding the studs through the holes on the motherboard - the sides of the backplate should be parallel to the motherboard's edges. Place the new VRM cooler on the VRMs, with the studs of the backplate sliding through the holes you drilled on the MVR-PLT140. Use the original screws with springs to secure the new cooler to the backplate and motherboard.

*Mounting the NB cooler*
First clean the NB chip and area of existing TIM with alcohol. Assemble the cooler and mount the studs for affixing the cooler to the motherboard per the instructions, making sure to use the included clear nylon washers where the metal parts meet the motherboard. Clean the base of the NB cooler with alcohol and apply TIM to the NB chip and mount the cooler per its instructions, with the modified arm toward the capacitors and choke for power delivery to the NB as shown in the pictures in this thread.

*(Optional) Adding heatsinks to the chokes*
As it turns out the original cooler doesn't actually make contact with the chokes, despite appearances. Regardless, they do get warm to the touch. If you wish to, clean the chokes with alcohol and use adhesive thermal tape to affix your 10x10mm heatsinks individually to each choke. It's probably best practice to ensure they do not touch each other or the VRM cooler.

*The Results*


With heatsinks installed on the 12mm motherboard VRM chokes:


With 1.58V vcore and 5.017GHz on a FX-8350 the VRMs get up to 48*C in my system during IBT AVX testing. The internal construction of the VRM cooler is rather simple so cooling is likely less impressive than with purpose built coolers for other motherboards, but this is to me an acceptable result. The NB temperatures stay in the low 30s even during stress testing with 1.25-1.3V. The most dramatic change I observed was socket temperatures, which have gone instead from being 10*C+ warmer than core temperatures to reliably a couple degrees cooler than the package temperature on the sensor in the processor.

Overall it's a very attractive and acceptable improvement to the original motherboard cooling solutions. I hope this guide helps those considering the modification to pull the trigger and try this.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> First, I got this information thanks to a couple sparse posts in the Sabertooth 990FX owners club - many thanks to those involved. From what I could gather there was one person who had done this on the original board and one on the Rev2.0 that I have.
> 
> Second, I posted this on a thread separate from the Sabertooth 990FX club thread so that it's easier to find on Google for those like me (and you) in the future that are having a hard time getting the info otherwise. You can find that post here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1468642/how-to-watercool-the-asus-990fx-sabertooth-rev2-0-vrms-and-nb
> 
> Third, be aware that this requires some metalworking tools. If you don't have the facility to perform the modifications yourself any local machine shop should be able to do it for you quite cheaply.
> 
> Finally, this is for the Rev2.0. Looking at pictures of the Rev2.0 Gen3 this should also apply, but I cannot confirm that. Reading results from the Rev1 example I saw, modifying the NB cooler may be slightly different.
> 
> *The Problem*
> Despite the ASUS Sabertooth 990FX being one of the premium AM3+ boards for overclocking there are no pre-made watercooling solutions for it. Improved cooling, whether achieved through air cooling the original heatsinks or pursuing watercooling, is recommended to offset the heat created by . We will be solving this using generic off the shelf components with some modification.
> 
> *The Parts*
> Required:
> *Koolance MVR-100*
> *Koolance MVR-PLT140*
> *Koolance CHC-122*
> Optional:
> 10x10mm copper or aluminum heatsinks (and adhesive thermal pad if not included)
> 
> *Preparation*
> *Removing the original cooler*
> On the Rev2.0 the Voltage Regulation Module (VRM) cooler and Northbridge (NB) cooler are one item, as the two large heatsinks are joined by a heat pipe. Two screws hold the VRM portion of the cooler to a backing plate on the rearside of the motherboard, which has studded threads. The Northbridge also has two screws, which thread into studs that are themselves threaded into the motherboard. Remove all four screws and you will be able to remove the cooler, being careful to retain all the screws and their springs The thermal paste on the NB is fairly adhesive so it will take some pressure to lift it.
> 
> Here's what it looks like when you succeed:
> 
> 
> On the reverse side of the motherboard are small threaded studs for the NB and the backing plate with studs for the VRMs. Here's what the underside of the VRM area looks like with the VRM backplate removed:
> 
> 
> *Modification*
> *Modifying the NB cooler*
> The only problem with adapting this part to your Sabertooth 990FX is that one of the mounting arms will interfere with capacitors that help deliver power to the NB. I believe the arms are made of chromoly steel. I used an angle grinder to cut an approximately 3/4" off of one of the arms to give a generous amount of clearance. I then finished it with a metal file - don't worry the metal keeps its appearance after filing. The area you have to modify is outlined in the following image:
> 
> 
> *Modifying the VRM cooler*
> The issue here is compatibility with the stock VRM backplate and spacing relative to the VRM chokes (the 12x12x12mm metal components under the black portion of the original cooler). You will have to drill through the MVR-PLT140 (made of nickel-plated copper) to match the mounting of the original cooler. To do this I clamped the MVR-PLT140 to the original cooler and used a transfer punch to mark the locations to drill. I believe the size bit required was 3/16", but start smaller and work your way up until the stud on the original backplate can fit through your hole. As it's copper you will probably have to countersink your holes for the studs to insert smoothly. Best practice here is to mark and drill the first hole, then put the drill bit through the stock cooler and the first hole drilled in the plate and use the transfer plate to mark the second hole so that the two holes are spaced perfectly in relation to each other. I used a drill press and a heavy clamp to make the holes and keep the transfer plate in place. The final result looks like this:
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that where you drill the holes will affect where it mounts on the motherboard in relation to the VRM chokes. There isn't a lot of clearance so please take care - it may be best to buy two of them to be safe.
> 
> 
> *Assembly*
> *Moounting the VRM cooler*
> After cleaning both surfaces with alcohol, use Thermal Interface Material (TIM) like you would on the Integrated Heat Sink (IHS) of a CPU between the MVR-100 and MVR-PLT140 when bolting them together. Remove any thermal pad material remaining from the stock cooler on the VRMs, cleaning them with alcohol and a q-tip if necessary. Some people like to apply TIM to the VRMs; I did not do this. The MVR-PLT140 comes with a thermal pad - apply this to the bottom of the MVR-PLT140 on the opposite face of where you bolted the MVR-100. My stock backplate's thermal pad was intact after removal so I reused this. Install the backplate on the motherboard by sliding the studs through the holes on the motherboard - the sides of the backplate should be parallel to the motherboard's edges. Place the new VRM cooler on the VRMs, with the studs of the backplate sliding through the holes you drilled on the MVR-PLT140. Use the original screws with springs to secure the new cooler to the backplate and motherboard.
> 
> *Mounting the NB cooler*
> First clean the NB chip and area of existing TIM with alcohol. Assemble the cooler and mount the studs for affixing the cooler to the motherboard per the instructions, making sure to use the included clear nylon washers where the metal parts meet the motherboard. Clean the base of the NB cooler with alcohol and apply TIM to the NB chip and mount the cooler per its instructions, with the modified arm toward the capacitors and choke for power delivery to the NB as shown in the pictures in this thread.
> 
> *(Optional) Adding heatsinks to the chokes*
> As it turns out the original cooler doesn't actually make contact with the chokes, despite appearances. Regardless, they do get warm to the touch. If you wish to, clean the chokes with alcohol and use adhesive thermal tape to affix your 10x10mm heatsinks individually to each choke. It's probably best practice to ensure they do not touch each other or the VRM cooler.
> 
> *The Results*
> 
> 
> With heatsinks installed on the 12mm motherboard VRM chokes:
> 
> 
> With 1.58V vcore and 5.017GHz on a FX-8350 the VRMs get up to 48*C in my system during IBT AVX testing. The internal construction of the VRM cooler is rather simple so cooling is likely less impressive than with purpose built coolers for other motherboards, but this is to me an acceptable result. The NB temperatures stay in the low 30s even during stress testing with 1.25-1.3V. The most dramatic change I observed was socket temperatures, which have gone instead from being 10*C+ warmer than core temperatures to reliably a couple degrees cooler than the package temperature on the sensor in the processor.
> 
> Overall it's a very attractive and acceptable improvement to the original motherboard cooling solutions. I hope this guide helps those considering the modification to pull the trigger and try this.


+1 right off the bat Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> First, I got this information thanks to a couple sparse posts in the Sabertooth 990FX owners club - many thanks to those involved. From what I could gather there was one person who had done this on the original board and one on the Rev2.0 that I have.
> 
> Second, I posted this on a thread separate from the Sabertooth 990FX club thread so that it's easier to find on Google for those like me (and you) in the future that are having a hard time getting the info otherwise. You can find that post here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1468642/how-to-watercool-the-asus-990fx-sabertooth-rev2-0-vrms-and-nb
> 
> Third, be aware that this requires some metalworking tools. If you don't have the facility to perform the modifications yourself any local machine shop should be able to do it for you quite cheaply.
> 
> Finally, this is for the Rev2.0. Looking at pictures of the Rev2.0 Gen3 this should also apply, but I cannot confirm that. Reading results from the Rev1 example I saw, modifying the NB cooler may be slightly different.
> 
> *The Problem*
> Despite the ASUS Sabertooth 990FX being one of the premium AM3+ boards for overclocking there are no pre-made watercooling solutions for it. Improved cooling, whether achieved through air cooling the original heatsinks or pursuing watercooling, is recommended to offset the heat created by . We will be solving this using generic off the shelf components with some modification.
> 
> *The Parts*
> Required:
> *Koolance MVR-100*
> *Koolance MVR-PLT140*
> *Koolance CHC-122*
> Optional:
> 10x10mm copper or aluminum heatsinks (and adhesive thermal pad if not included)
> 
> *Preparation*
> *Removing the original cooler*
> On the Rev2.0 the Voltage Regulation Module (VRM) cooler and Northbridge (NB) cooler are one item, as the two large heatsinks are joined by a heat pipe. Two screws hold the VRM portion of the cooler to a backing plate on the rearside of the motherboard, which has studded threads. The Northbridge also has two screws, which thread into studs that are themselves threaded into the motherboard. Remove all four screws and you will be able to remove the cooler, being careful to retain all the screws and their springs The thermal paste on the NB is fairly adhesive so it will take some pressure to lift it.
> 
> Here's what it looks like when you succeed:
> 
> 
> On the reverse side of the motherboard are small threaded studs for the NB and the backing plate with studs for the VRMs. Here's what the underside of the VRM area looks like with the VRM backplate removed:
> 
> 
> *Modification*
> *Modifying the NB cooler*
> The only problem with adapting this part to your Sabertooth 990FX is that one of the mounting arms will interfere with capacitors that help deliver power to the NB. I believe the arms are made of chromoly steel. I used an angle grinder to cut an approximately 3/4" off of one of the arms to give a generous amount of clearance. I then finished it with a metal file - don't worry the metal keeps its appearance after filing. The area you have to modify is outlined in the following image:
> 
> 
> *Modifying the VRM cooler*
> The issue here is compatibility with the stock VRM backplate and spacing relative to the VRM chokes (the 12x12x12mm metal components under the black portion of the original cooler). You will have to drill through the MVR-PLT140 (made of nickel-plated copper) to match the mounting of the original cooler. To do this I clamped the MVR-PLT140 to the original cooler and used a transfer punch to mark the locations to drill. I believe the size bit required was 3/16", but start smaller and work your way up until the stud on the original backplate can fit through your hole. As it's copper you will probably have to countersink your holes for the studs to insert smoothly. Best practice here is to mark and drill the first hole, then put the drill bit through the stock cooler and the first hole drilled in the plate and use the transfer plate to mark the second hole so that the two holes are spaced perfectly in relation to each other. I used a drill press and a heavy clamp to make the holes and keep the transfer plate in place. The final result looks like this:
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that where you drill the holes will affect where it mounts on the motherboard in relation to the VRM chokes. There isn't a lot of clearance so please take care - it may be best to buy two of them to be safe.
> 
> 
> *Assembly*
> *Moounting the VRM cooler*
> After cleaning both surfaces with alcohol, use Thermal Interface Material (TIM) like you would on the Integrated Heat Sink (IHS) of a CPU between the MVR-100 and MVR-PLT140 when bolting them together. Remove any thermal pad material remaining from the stock cooler on the VRMs, cleaning them with alcohol and a q-tip if necessary. Some people like to apply TIM to the VRMs; I did not do this. The MVR-PLT140 comes with a thermal pad - apply this to the bottom of the MVR-PLT140 on the opposite face of where you bolted the MVR-100. My stock backplate's thermal pad was intact after removal so I reused this. Install the backplate on the motherboard by sliding the studs through the holes on the motherboard - the sides of the backplate should be parallel to the motherboard's edges. Place the new VRM cooler on the VRMs, with the studs of the backplate sliding through the holes you drilled on the MVR-PLT140. Use the original screws with springs to secure the new cooler to the backplate and motherboard.
> 
> *Mounting the NB cooler*
> First clean the NB chip and area of existing TIM with alcohol. Assemble the cooler and mount the studs for affixing the cooler to the motherboard per the instructions, making sure to use the included clear nylon washers where the metal parts meet the motherboard. Clean the base of the NB cooler with alcohol and apply TIM to the NB chip and mount the cooler per its instructions, with the modified arm toward the capacitors and choke for power delivery to the NB as shown in the pictures in this thread.
> 
> *(Optional) Adding heatsinks to the chokes*
> As it turns out the original cooler doesn't actually make contact with the chokes, despite appearances. Regardless, they do get warm to the touch. If you wish to, clean the chokes with alcohol and use adhesive thermal tape to affix your 10x10mm heatsinks individually to each choke. It's probably best practice to ensure they do not touch each other or the VRM cooler.
> 
> *The Results*
> 
> 
> With heatsinks installed on the 12mm motherboard VRM chokes:
> 
> 
> With 1.58V vcore and 5.017GHz on a FX-8350 the VRMs get up to 48*C in my system during IBT AVX testing. The internal construction of the VRM cooler is rather simple so cooling is likely less impressive than with purpose built coolers for other motherboards, but this is to me an acceptable result. The NB temperatures stay in the low 30s even during stress testing with 1.25-1.3V. The most dramatic change I observed was socket temperatures, which have gone instead from being 10*C+ warmer than core temperatures to reliably a couple degrees cooler than the package temperature on the sensor in the processor.
> 
> Overall it's a very attractive and acceptable improvement to the original motherboard cooling solutions. I hope this guide helps those considering the modification to pull the trigger and try this.






please add the whole post to the OP [email protected]!~#$~#@!~#@!#@[email protected]!~#@!~#@!~#@!~#@!~ please !


----------



## Archea47

Haha thanks Mega Man! I've learned a lot of what I know from you and F3ERS 2 ASH3S so that's great validation

I just re-read it and there's a number of typos I have to fix when it's not after midnight. Are you going to take a swing at watercooling the Sabertooth in Lil Tough Guy?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Haha thanks Mega Man! I've learned a lot of what I know from you and F3ERS 2 ASH3S so that's great validation
> 
> I just re-read it and there's a number of typos I have to fix when it's not after midnight. Are you going to take a swing at watercooling the Sabertooth in Lil Tough Guy?


possibly i still need to put it back together poor kitty has nto been used in a while. but i may r 83xx to fill it, i hated the 6100 tbh felt really sluggish, although i never oced it successfully may need to !

at the moment i need to "finish" my 3930 build ( i use that term because lets face it we are never finished ) but yea, for now i got a th10 to put it or my amd rig in, but endgame is tx10-d !

then i need to do that build ( saberkitty ) and lastly i need to play with my a10 7850 which is still in the box, i may buy a second as i can get it and the mobo for 200 at MC i wanna play with the itx and do a itx build with gigas mitx with wifi )


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> then i need to do that build ( saberkitty ) and lastly i need to play with my a10 7850 which is still in the box, i may buy a second as i can get it and the mobo for 200 at MC i wanna play with the itx and do a itx build with gigas mitx with wifi )


Haha I just posted in another thread that I'm toying with either picking up a 8320 for $99 at microcenter to beat on and compare to the '50 OR a Kaveri for the girlfriend's build. No kitty for the FMs though, which is a good thing for my wallet


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Haha thanks Mega Man! I've learned a lot of what I know from you and F3ERS 2 ASH3S so that's great validation
> 
> I just re-read it and there's a number of typos I have to fix when it's not after midnight. Are you going to take a swing at watercooling the Sabertooth in Lil Tough Guy?


How sweet of you









Great! information! if only I had monies!


----------



## simsim44

delete might be copyrighted.


----------



## Archea47

Any tips/tricks on keeping this board happy above 1.65V? I keep having strange issues and having to remove the CMOS battery to get it to enter the BIOS management. Totally fine below that voltage (with voltage monitoring disabled)


----------



## SwishaMane

Thats a good tutorial Archea. I would SO do that if I haven't already had my rev 1 for so long (it seems) it'd almost be pointless now. Ive also got active cooling for the VRM / NB and RAM (one fan that cools all them). But none the less, looks really good.

From what i noticed you don't REALLY need metal working tools. Probably just a rotary tool and some measuring / comparison skills getting those VRM mounting holes drilled right.


----------



## oneluvballer21

First, thanks Archea47 for that NB/VRM WC guide! I've been trying to see if it was possible, even having to mod other blocks for "similar" NB/VRM, and I came up drawing blanks so far, so I fully appreciate what you've done!!

Second, I just got my saberkitty in the mail today, soon to be mated with an 8320/8350, but the full build is probably just over a month from being completely in hand (due to finances). But it'll be a custom WC setup, so those modded NB/VRM blocks will likely be used in due time!









Third, just curious what thoughts/advice people might have with regards to using this MB with an 8320/8350, and DDR3 2400 RAM...? I have a 2x 4gb set of G.Skill Trident X 2400 CL9 RAM in the mail, and this is kind of new ground for me in an OC... I've never had a system that uses DDR3, nor have I bought RAM that was clocked well above my CPU's base FSB specs. Any chance anyone has this RAM with this MB and one of these CPUs...?? Or at least similar RAM...?


----------



## xSpiriT

Quote:


> Hey all. I'm a new sabertooth 990fx R2.0 owner. Here is my validator.
> http://valid.canardpc.com/kli32n
> Sorry I couldn't make my username MATT on here. I swear that is my validator. Here is a pic.
> 
> Hope you all like it. If you have any questions or comments feel free to reply or pm me.
> Thanks.


Hey guys. I'm back again to show you some updates to my setup. I RMAed my fx8120 and got back an 8350. Running that baby at 4.7Ghz stable! Once I get better cooling I plan on going even higher! Here are some pics.


The first one is with the flash from my phone. You get a clearer view of the components inside. The second one is without the flash on my phone so you can see the glow of it. Its a little blurry because I couldn't get it to focus on the inside so it focused on the glass. Hope you guys like it. The case I'm using is the Rosewill Thor V2 and I love it.
Here is my validator:
http://valid.canardpc.com/u7lrsn
Lemme know what you guys think.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oneluvballer21*
> 
> First, thanks Archea47 for that NB/VRM WC guide! I've been trying to see if it was possible, even having to mod other blocks for "similar" NB/VRM, and I came up drawing blanks so far, so I fully appreciate what you've done!!
> 
> Second, I just got my saberkitty in the mail today, soon to be mated with an 8320/8350, but the full build is probably just over a month from being completely in hand (due to finances). But it'll be a custom WC setup, so those modded NB/VRM blocks will likely be used in due time!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Third, just curious what thoughts/advice people might have with regards to using this MB with an 8320/8350, and DDR3 2400 RAM...? I have a 2x 4gb set of G.Skill Trident X 2400 CL9 RAM in the mail, and this is kind of new ground for me in an OC... I've never had a system that uses DDR3, nor have I bought RAM that was clocked well above my CPU's base FSB specs. Any chance anyone has this RAM with this MB and one of these CPUs...?? Or at least similar RAM...?


i and several others do ( and i did with my saberkitty when i used it ) .

fair warning most 8350s can run it, some can not

some can do 4 slots, others only 2


----------



## oneluvballer21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i and several others do ( and i did with my saberkitty when i used it ) .
> 
> fair warning most 8350s can run it, some can not
> 
> some can do 4 slots, others only 2


I'm sure I can get it all figured out... so long as the MB and CPU can handle the 300 fsb throughput. This is far from my first OC, its just my first with DDR3 RAM, and RAM that is sold to run at a higher fsb than the stock CPU settings. But in the process I will likely be looking for a little advice here and there... 0


----------



## Mega Man

on asus boards you can run 2400 @ 200 fsb fyi at least on the saberkitty and the CVFz


----------



## hornedfrog86

I have the GSKILL F3-2400C10Q-32GTX Trident X coming and will try on the R 2.0 with both an FX8350 and FX 9590. 4 sticks of 8G at 2400 MHz?? I hope so.


----------



## longhaul64

First time trying to over clock my pc and first time poster. Everything I have read so far has been very informative.
My specs are:
Sabertooth 990FX Rev 2 BIOS 2103
FX-8350 cooled by a Corsair H100
8GB (2 x 4GB) Kingson HyperX Beast DDR3 1600
Crossfired XFX r7770 (1st slot is r7770 DD)(3rd slot is XFX r7770 Ultra OC Black Edition)
CoolNax ZX-600 power supply
Stuffed ina Uktra Rogue m925 tower

First Question
When I run Prime 95, with CPU any faster 4.4Ghz, my core temps take about 3 min. to hit 65 deg. C. Thats when I get an over temp. warning, What is the max temp I can have? Vcore never gets over 1.4 v. Vcore temp is 58 deg c. What an I missing?
2: What is the best RAM and power supply for the money for this rig?
Thank in advance for your help and input.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longhaul64*
> 
> First time trying to over clock my pc and first time poster. Everything I have read so far has been very informative.
> My specs are:
> Sabertooth 990FX Rev 2 BIOS 2103
> FX-8350 cooled by a Corsair H100
> 8GB (2 x 4GB) Kingson HyperX Beast DDR3 1600
> Crossfired XFX r7770 (1st slot is r7770 DD)(3rd slot is XFX r7770 Ultra OC Black Edition)
> CoolNax ZX-600 power supply
> Stuffed ina Uktra Rogue m925 tower
> 
> First Question
> When I run Prime 95, with CPU any faster 4.4Ghz, my core temps take about 3 min. to hit 65 deg. C. Thats when I get an over temp. warning, What is the max temp I can have? Vcore never gets over 1.4 v. Vcore temp is 58 deg c. What an I missing?
> 2: What is the best RAM and power supply for the money for this rig?
> Thank in advance for your help and input.


that warning sounds like one from ai suite... if so its actually the cpu socket temp and is "safe" to 70 C or so... you will need to watch the "core" temps more... use hwinfo 64 or coretemp to watch the actual core temps of your cpu... They are safe to the mid 60'sC (some say 70C) As for the best ram... well that's highly debatable... and I'll leave that one to the RAM over clockers on here to debate, but I've had pretty good luck with Corsair's vengeance ram, but there are other "enthusiast" class ram's out there that are debatably better. Power supply... hmm... I'll leave that one alone since I've never needed much more than the one I've had for 3 builds now... its an old Ultra LSP 750 watt.... *waiting on the boo's and hisses from others here* but I've never been able to kill it, and I've run xfire on it twice before... not now... running a single 7950 OC'd on it now...

oh, in my opinion, you may not need that much volts for 4.4ghz... since you are running stress tests, I assume though you already tried lower.... but if you haven't try 4.4 with 1.36 vcore and LLC set to very high and see how it holds... may even try with LLC set to high and see...


----------



## longhaul64

Thanks for the info, I'll back the volts off and see what happens. Thanks


----------



## AMEXPAT

Hi guys I'm going to buy a Sabertooth 990FX/GEN3 R2.0 and junking the GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 4 what would be the very best psu for ocing this board? I've been out of the loop for a number of years so I need some help. I'm limited on brands so hope I can get it. I live in the Philippines. For sure I can get the Sabertooth shipped in from Manila. Right now I'm using a Seasonic M12II 850W Bronze, but Mega Man got me thinking it's not just the voltage it's how clean it is too. Although on the kids rig it has an older Sabertooth model it performs so much better than the new Gig board with the same model pcu, but 650w so be good to me I don't want to buy any more junk! Both rigs have a FX8320, Ripjaws X 8gb 4gbx2 DDR3 1866 CL9 (F3-14900CL9D-8GBXL) the kids have 2 GeForce 8800 GT in SLI. Mine I have a Sapphire R9-270X Dual-X w/Boost OC Version 2G DDR5 256 BIT getting another one as soon as the store gets another one going cross fire so keep that in mind. Please don't say much about your opinions about the vcard or ram was lucky to get them. If I can get some of this stuff settled I might get a 8350 later. All pc parts here cost so much more than in the US. Customs charge the same price in taxes as the part cost, if a part cost 100 bucks it'll cost me 100 in taxes plus shipping and they lose stuff here alot from overseas. Been there done that, so please don't suggest ordering out of the Philippines. I even had to build my own water cooling outfit as they don't have many choices in water cooling stuff here, but it works great and does it's job.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMEXPAT*
> 
> Hi guys I'm going to buy a Sabertooth 990FX/GEN3 R2.0 and junking the GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 4 what would be the very best psu for ocing this board? I've been out of the loop for a number of years so I need some help. I'm limited on brands so hope I can get it. I live in the Philippines. For sure I can get the Sabertooth shipped in from Manila. Right now I'm using a Seasonic M12II 850W Bronze, but Mega Man got me thinking it's not just the voltage it's how clean it is too. Although on the kids rig it has an older Sabertooth model it performs so much better than the new Gig board with the same model pcu, but 650w so be good to me I don't want to buy any more junk! Both rigs have a FX8320, Ripjaws X 8gb 4gbx2 DDR3 1866 CL9 (F3-14900CL9D-8GBXL) the kids have 2 GeForce 8800 GT in SLI. Mine I have a Sapphire R9-270X Dual-X w/Boost OC Version 2G DDR5 256 BIT getting another one as soon as the store gets another one going cross fire so keep that in mind. Please don't say much about your opinions about the vcard or ram was lucky to get them. If I can get some of this stuff settled I might get a 8350 later. All pc parts here cost so much more than in the US. Customs charge the same price in taxes as the part cost, if a part cost 100 bucks it'll cost me 100 in taxes plus shipping and they lose stuff here alot from overseas. Been there done that, so please don't suggest ordering out of the Philippines. I even had to build my own water cooling outfit as they don't have many choices in water cooling stuff here, but it works great and does it's job.


talk to @shilka


----------



## Archea47

Also check out jonnyguru.com for technical power supply reviews


----------



## Mega Man




----------



## Recursion

Hi, I'm a new owner of the Sabertooth 990Fx rev 2.0. My old GA-990Fx-Ud3 catches fire so this is my replacement. It has some catches but I like the thermal radar with the temps sensors. Is it reliable? Are there other mobos also from other brands? The other solution would be an extra fan controller for example from Bitfenix?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> How much power can each fan header take safely on the Sabertooth? I was thinking of hooking up a few small fans for the NB and VRM's to one header maybe the cpu fan header.


I think it can feed a lot of fans. I had up to 8 fans on a fan header. But I'm not sure if it can damage a mobo. I have a mobo catches fires and died. I used Speedfan to control the fans! Now I have up to 6-7 fans on a fan header. It seems to work great!


----------



## simsim44

I have ten SP120 PMW corsairs running from the cha_fan4 header to the fan hub in my Primo case. the motherboard does not seem to have any issues with it. which is the R2 version


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Hi, I'm a new owner of the Sabertooth 990Fx rev 2.0. My old GA-990Fx-Ud3 catches fire so this is my replacement. It has some catches but I like the thermal radar with the temps sensors. Is it reliable? Are there other mobos also from other brands? The other solution would be an extra fan controller for example from Bitfenix?


extremely reliable.

dont use thermal radar, use hwinfo64 !!!!! it sucks that you can not use the fan control, but aisuite is full of errors, it you really want that level of control i recommend a aquaero !

let us know if you need any other help !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> I have ten SP120 PMW corsairs running from the cha_fan4 header to the fan hub in my Primo case. the motherboard does not seem to have any issues with it. which is the R2 version


unless something has changed they are not being controlled by PWM rather by voltage as although they are 4 pin headers, it is not true pwm asus is notorious for it


----------



## simsim44

yes voltage
I need to get a fan controller, anyhow I have been working on the clocks I got to 5.484 and it shut down this is a stable result validated

http://valid.canardpc.com/msw4e3

What's the max volts can this board handle?


----------



## Mega Man

i pushed alot, you wont kill it, you will hit thermals long before i have pushed 1.7 now i hear it can go upwards


----------



## Recursion

Thank you! In need some advice with fsb oc with this mainboard. If I oc up to 216 Mhz everything is fine only when I push it Windows won't wake from sleep or won't sleep at all. I tried the newer bios to no avail. What about fsb oc anyway? My older Asus M5A990Fx evo rev 1.0 supports 260 mhz and Windows sleep!??! I also need an older display driver? Any help?


----------



## carloyz250f

hi.. i just bout asus sabertooth 990fx r2.0 rev 1.xx. my question is at 1.39volts at 4.5ghz i dont know if stable stresstesting righ now. my vcore-1 is 67-72 and vcore-2 is 57-60. is this too hot? what is the safe vcore temps?
thank you so much if u rply. sory for my bad english..

just installd hwinfo64. my temp 7 is 122c!! is this normal??


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> hi.. i just bout asus sabertooth 990fx r2.0 rev 1.xx. my question is at 1.39volts at 4.5ghz i dont know if stable stresstesting righ now. my vcore-1 is 67-72 and vcore-2 is 57-60. is this too hot? what is the safe vcore temps?
> thank you so much if u rply. sory for my bad english..
> 
> just installd hwinfo64. my temp 7 is 122c!! is this normal??


you need a fan on your vrms !

idr what temp 7 is sorry


----------



## simsim44

this is what I did to get my V core temps to stay low, some of the guys are mounting 80mm and bigger fans to the heatsink, I don't think 70c is overly bad I am not sure but I think you can go higher without causing mechanical failure.

taking a second look I would like to think you have a poor air flow concern, I mean your whole set up is running warm


----------



## carloyz250f

thank you so much for all of your rply. i live in the Philippines and the temp here is so hot.. i have a corsair 300r case with 7 fans in total. is my temperature bad? i dont know if i can do enything about adding some stuffs at the moment. im broke..









this is my temp at this moment.. is this good? im worried righ now.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> hi.. i just bout asus sabertooth 990fx r2.0 rev 1.xx. my question is at 1.39volts at 4.5ghz i dont know if stable stresstesting righ now. my vcore-1 is 67-72 and vcore-2 is 57-60. is this too hot? what is the safe vcore temps?
> thank you so much if u rply. sory for my bad english..
> 
> just installd hwinfo64. my temp 7 is 122c!! is this normal??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you need a fan on your vrms !
> 
> idr what temp 7 is sorry
Click to expand...


----------



## carloyz250f

just to update you guys my vcore-1 is now 75c. with no air conditioning in my room but if i have aircondition on i have dramatic low temp on vcore its like 60-65c. sory for my bad english.


----------



## HerrisDevio

with over volted anything its good idea to add extra cooling to thouse areas

i would try turning back the vcor a little at a time till it becomes unstable and bring it up till it runs stable again and see if you can drop the voltage some might drop the temps some if you can


----------



## draterrojam

Hey guys random question about the asus sabertooth r2.0. I have my graphics card in the second pci-e slot down (the black slot), is this any different from using the upper one? Just moved it down to see how it looked and with my 540 case I kind of like it, but not sure. Just wondering if I'm still running at the same performance. Sorry for the random, probably dumb question


----------



## HerrisDevio

as far as i know the black slot is a x4 slot you might see minimal performance loss i dont think anything overyly noticeable


----------



## Mega Man

yes dont use it use the only below it, the black one is 4x


----------



## draterrojam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes dont use it use the only below it, the black one is 4x


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HerrisDevio*
> 
> as far as i know the black slot is a x4 slot you might see minimal performance loss i dont think anything overyly noticeable


Thanks guys. Oh well, was worth a shot. Always helpful here, appreciate it.


----------



## Bladedrummer

Hello everyone,
I am in dire need of help/guidance. I've been building a PC and I have an Asus Sabertooth 990fx + FX8120. I am having a major issue: it cannot see any hard drives I install, in any of the SATA ports, in any mode. Has anyone ever had this kind of issue and found a solution? I've switched the SATA cables, I tried all the SATA ports, I reset CMOS by both pulling out the battery and moving the jumper. Anything I've tried has failed so far. I even put both HDDs (a corsair SSD and a Seagate Barracuda) on my other build to check if they were faulty but they are 100% fine. I am running out of ideas. Every time I boot it just says "no drives found" and they don't show up in the BIOS either. If I boot from a bootable usb, I am able to go to the Win 8.1 installation but when it's time to install the files it cannot find any drives to install to. I really hope someone can help me out.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bladedrummer*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> I am in dire need of help/guidance. I've been building a PC and I have an Asus Sabertooth 990fx + FX8120. I am having a major issue: it cannot see any hard drives I install, in any of the SATA ports, in any mode. Has anyone ever had this kind of issue and found a solution? I've switched the SATA cables, I tried all the SATA ports, I reset CMOS by both pulling out the battery and moving the jumper. Anything I've tried has failed so far. I even put both HDDs (a corsair SSD and a Seagate Barracuda) on my other build to check if they were faulty but they are 100% fine. I am running out of ideas. Every time I boot it just says "no drives found" and they don't show up in the BIOS either. If I boot from a bootable usb, I am able to go to the Win 8.1 installation but when it's time to install the files it cannot find any drives to install to. I really hope someone can help me out.


are you at stock ?


----------



## HerrisDevio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bladedrummer*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> I am in dire need of help/guidance. I've been building a PC and I have an Asus Sabertooth 990fx + FX8120. I am having a major issue: it cannot see any hard drives I install, in any of the SATA ports, in any mode. Has anyone ever had this kind of issue and found a solution? I've switched the SATA cables, I tried all the SATA ports, I reset CMOS by both pulling out the battery and moving the jumper. Anything I've tried has failed so far. I even put both HDDs (a corsair SSD and a Seagate Barracuda) on my other build to check if they were faulty but they are 100% fine. I am running out of ideas. Every time I boot it just says "no drives found" and they don't show up in the BIOS either. If I boot from a bootable usb, I am able to go to the Win 8.1 installation but when it's time to install the files it cannot find any drives to install to. I really hope someone can help me out.


idont know if you tried this or not because your post doesnt say but have you tested the sata cables i know when i got my board i had one bad sata 6gb cable i swaped it out for a sata 3gb cable and the drive was detected after that


----------



## Bladedrummer

Hello, and thanks for the replies. Yes, I am at stock speed and I tried 3 different SATA cables. I even tried the same cable on my other PC and it worked. I was able to initialize and use the same drive on my other PC with no issues.

Furthermore, I even just updated the BIOS to the latest version but that didn't work either.


----------



## HerrisDevio

how long ago did you get the board

ps i just remembered something in the bios somewhere there is a setting to switch drive settings from ahci mode to ide mode if you have it set one way and the drives where installed using the other it can cause problems with them being detected


----------



## Bladedrummer

I got the mobo from a friend who has used it for a while with no issues. Will probably get back to him tomorrow to see if he knows of any issues. AFAIK he's been using it without problems for a while now. However, I just managed to get it to recognize an SSD on the SATA 3 Gb/S instead of the good SATA3 ports. I installed Win 8.1 Pro and the PC now boots. Once I run all the updates, I will try to switch to the SATA3 ports. It would be incredibly lame to use the old SATA ports on such a nice motherboard.


----------



## OzPapaSmurf

I would advise to check where the main power cable goes into the motherboard. I have one of these boards and it was faulty where the plug goes into the motherboard. try another PSU or, before you try that, take the main power plug out, clean out the socket where the main power goes (old soft toothbrush or a can of compressed air, not too hard though) and make sure there are no burnt terminals in the PSU plug. Then, fiddle about with the plug a bit and make sure that it is sitting properly into the socket.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bladedrummer*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> I am in dire need of help/guidance. I've been building a PC and I have an Asus Sabertooth 990fx + FX8120. I am having a major issue: it cannot see any hard drives I install, in any of the SATA ports, in any mode. Has anyone ever had this kind of issue and found a solution? I've switched the SATA cables, I tried all the SATA ports, I reset CMOS by both pulling out the battery and moving the jumper. Anything I've tried has failed so far. I even put both HDDs (a corsair SSD and a Seagate Barracuda) on my other build to check if they were faulty but they are 100% fine. I am running out of ideas. Every time I boot it just says "no drives found" and they don't show up in the BIOS either. If I boot from a bootable usb, I am able to go to the Win 8.1 installation but when it's time to install the files it cannot find any drives to install to. I really hope someone can help me out.


AHCI vs IDE mode I'd bet. Or the sata controller is busted.


----------



## Bladedrummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzPapaSmurf*
> 
> I would advise to check where the main power cable goes into the motherboard. I have one of these boards and it was faulty where the plug goes into the motherboard. try another PSU or, before you try that, take the main power plug out, clean out the socket where the main power goes (old soft toothbrush or a can of compressed air, not too hard though) and make sure there are no burnt terminals in the PSU plug. Then, fiddle about with the plug a bit and make sure that it is sitting properly into the socket.


I will try this when I get back home, at work at the moment.
Also, I tried both IDE and AHCI modes. For whatever reason last night it did recognize my SSD in one of the slower ports (3 Gb/s) and I was able to install Win 8.1 and it boots. I will need to check if I can get it to work on the faster sata ports now. I am also leaning towards a busted sata controller or similar.


----------



## simsim44

I thought, ( I know something I should do with adult supervision, thinking) that the brown 6Gb sata connectors were controlled by the south bridge chip and could be used for Raid setups and the gray6Gb connectors were controlled by the ASMedia chip. which was not intended for Raid. With that said all the SATA connections on this board are 6Gb's, if you have a Raid setup that would be the point where you would switch from the default ACHI to Ide mode. or so I have read in the owners manual.


----------



## Bladedrummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> I thought, ( I know something I should do with adult supervision, thinking) that the brown 6Gb sata connectors were controlled by the south bridge chip and could be used for Raid setups and the gray6Gb connectors were controlled by the ASMedia chip. which was not intended for Raid. With that said all the SATA connections on this board are 6Gb's, if you have a Raid setup that would be the point where you would switch from the default ACHI to Ide mode. or so I have read in the owners manual.


Nope, the brown ones are 6 Gb/s and the Black ones are 3 Gb/s. I am not running any kind of raid or anything. I have not tried the brown ports again since installing Windows but I will try them again tonight when I get home from work.


----------



## simsim44

By saying "nope" and using the word "black" I have realized you are working with this board
http://www.overclock.net/products/asus-sabertooth-990fx-am3-tuf-series-atx-amd-990fx-ddr3-1800-motherboards
and not the 2.0 version shown here. Would I be correct?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131877

edit for better pix and description
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131736


----------



## Bladedrummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> By saying "nope" and using the word "black" I have realized you are working with this board
> http://www.overclock.net/products/asus-sabertooth-990fx-am3-tuf-series-atx-amd-990fx-ddr3-1800-motherboards
> and not the 2.0 version shown here. Would I be correct?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131877
> 
> edit for better pix and description
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131736


Yes, you are correct. Mine is not the second revision, it's the vanilla version.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HerrisDevio*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bladedrummer*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> I am in dire need of help/guidance. I've been building a PC and I have an Asus Sabertooth 990fx + FX8120. I am having a major issue: it cannot see any hard drives I install, in any of the SATA ports, in any mode. Has anyone ever had this kind of issue and found a solution? I've switched the SATA cables, I tried all the SATA ports, I reset CMOS by both pulling out the battery and moving the jumper. Anything I've tried has failed so far. I even put both HDDs (a corsair SSD and a Seagate Barracuda) on my other build to check if they were faulty but they are 100% fine. I am running out of ideas. Every time I boot it just says "no drives found" and they don't show up in the BIOS either. If I boot from a bootable usb, I am able to go to the Win 8.1 installation but when it's time to install the files it cannot find any drives to install to. I really hope someone can help me out.
> 
> 
> 
> idont know if you tried this or not because your post doesnt say but have you tested the sata cables i know when i got my board i had one bad sata 6gb cable i swaped it out for a sata 3gb cable and the drive was detected after that
Click to expand...

fyi sata1/2/3 are all the same cable, it is in the specs for all sata cables, there may be a length requirement idk but a sata1 cable will work fine with all sata 3 devices, unless it is really cheap and it will still be recognized as sata3
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bladedrummer*
> 
> Yes, you are correct. Mine is not the second revision, it's the vanilla version.


when you do check tonight also make sure your power connector is secure to the drive, more then once i have pulled them off my ssds


----------



## Bladedrummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bladedrummer*
> 
> Yes, you are correct. Mine is not the second revision, it's the vanilla version.[/qu
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> fyi sata1/2/3 are all the same cable, it is in the specs for all sata cables, there may be a length requirement idk but a sata1 cable will work fine with all sata 3 devices, unless it is really cheap and it will still be recognized as sata3
> when you do check tonight also make sure your power connector is secure to the drive, more then once i have pulled them off my ssds
> 
> 
> 
> I've actually swapped drives and power chords multiple times, it would be highly unlikely that they weren't secure every single time. I will make sure one more time. Also, the SSD is now running on the slower ports, I just have not been able to run it on the good ones so far. It's pretty frustrating.
> 
> I am also going to try this. It's almost exactly the problem and the set up I have on this rig. I also have that setting enabled, will try switching it off. It seems very odd, but at this point I'll try anything that will even remotely have a chance of working!
> 
> Edit: I always suspected that the cables were all the same!
Click to expand...


----------



## SwishaMane

All the ports are Sata III. My Samsung 840 Pro runs at 600 MBps read and 550 MBps write on sata port 2. Thats 6gb/s (sata III) spec right? Theres no reason for this board to have 6 sata II slots coming from 2010 or 2011, whenever this beast came out. And Im on a Rev. 1 board.

Screenshot of user manual from ASUS PDF page 2-21


----------



## simsim44

what does the very next page tell you? the R2 board appears to be all SATA III


----------



## Bladedrummer

My manual says the brown ports are 6 Gb/s and the black ports are 3 Gb/s. Either way, that doesn't really help me solve my issue. The issue is that none of the brown ports are recognizing HDDs plugged into them. So 6/8 of the ports on the board are not working. Any idea what could be wrong? Here is a summary of what I've done so far:

1) Verified that cables and HDDs are working by plugging them on other PC;
2) Flashed CMOS;
3) Tried IDE and AHCI modes;
4) Turned off the Display OptionROM thing in the BIOS (read that it fixed the issue for some people);
5) Updated the BIOS;
6) Installed windows 8.1 using the slower ports and then installed the latest drivers for mobo (chipset, SATA, USB3.0, etc...)
7) Formatted and initialized the hard drives using my other PC;

So far the only way it will boot is if I have the SSD where I installed the OS on one of the black ports. None of the brown ones work.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bladedrummer*
> 
> My manual says the brown ports are 6 Gb/s and the black ports are 3 Gb/s. Either way, that doesn't really help me solve my issue. The issue is that none of the brown ports are recognizing HDDs plugged into them. So 6/8 of the ports on the board are not working. Any idea what could be wrong? Here is a summary of what I've done so far:
> 
> 1) Verified that cables and HDDs are working by plugging them on other PC;
> 2) Flashed CMOS;
> 3) Tried IDE and AHCI modes;
> 4) Turned off the Display OptionROM thing in the BIOS (read that it fixed the issue for some people);
> 5) Updated the BIOS;
> 6) Installed windows 8.1 using the slower ports and then installed the latest drivers for mobo (chipset, SATA, USB3.0, etc...)
> 7) Formatted and initialized the hard drives using my other PC;
> 
> So far the only way it will boot is if I have the SSD where I installed the OS on one of the black ports. None of the brown ones work.


reflash bios !


----------



## vWvSTATICvWv

What's up guys, I was actually speaking to someone from Asus yesterday about this board because I was having slow boot times after adding a new WD Black 1TB internal. Windows 8.1 is fresh installed on a Crucial M500 in AHCI. Everything was running to spec during use but my boot up time was instantaneous before adding the HDD. Anyways, the guy told me since the HDD was only going to be used for data to try plugging it into the eSata port. I got home from work and tried it, nothing changed. I tried moving around to different ports for each device...no go. Finally, I decided to do another fresh install with everything connected(including external 2tb). I made sure all ports were set to AHCI in BIOS, formatted both the SSD and WD from the Windows install and I'm happy to say everything is back to normal and booting super fast.


----------



## cab2

^ It's a slow booting mobo and most of the time it doesn't beep either. If you want fast, get z77. How many sec delay r u getting?


----------



## vWvSTATICvWv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> ^ It's a slow booting mobo and most of the time it doesn't beep either. If you want fast, get z77. How many sec delay r u getting?


I haven't timed it but if you're familiar with Windows 8 logo and how the dotted circles spin...Mine do a full circle twice and I'm at the log-in. Before I fixed the slow booting problem, that circle was spinning for a good 10-15secs before I got to log-in. The Asus logo zips right by and now I can't complain about Windows loading. I do agree about the beep, it's sporadic. I've noticed it will do a beep if you make a dramatic change in the Bios, like speeds or voltage,


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> ^ It's a slow booting mobo and most of the time it doesn't beep either. If you want fast, get z77. How many sec delay r u getting?


hahahaha hey look another intel fanboy, please stop trolling here

yea no, i have found that installing a new hdd with remove fastboot ! on both intel or amd ( several 8350 rigs, 1 6100 some not yet together a10s and a 3930k rig )


----------



## ZombieWorm

Apart from the obvious settings like disabling power saving features, has anyone got detailed information for getting a high fsb overclock?

I can raise the multiplier and leave the fsb at 200 getting to around 4.7Ghz without the need for lots of voltage. I can get near to this clock speed on fsb however I feel that there is a number of settings that probably help out. Can anyone share their knowledge?

Thanks


----------



## simsim44

Yea your gonna need to fill your sig, the guys will need to know some info of what your working with like CPU, ram, both quantity and speed, going out on a limb and assume you have a 990FX R2.


----------



## ZombieWorm

Yeah sorry sim, I just updated the CPU-Z requirement to join the club my current 24/7 info is on that. It is a r2 board RAM is corsair vengeance 1600mhz. If I can run at 4.8 I will be happy as I know 5Ghz is going to be toasty. I have a H100 AIO cooler.

What voltages are people pushing to get 4.8?

I have latest BIOS, I went back to defaults to flash this as I also had to RMA a PSU so starting from scratch again. Beforehand had it on a high multi with just 220 fsb running 4.7Ghz.


----------



## simsim44

Welcome to the Forum

Copy and paste the link, I have no idea what processor you have. the AIO coolers are great for light overclocking I had a H110 but that did cut it so I went full custom. currently on CPU only

edit
I have my 9590 at 1.575 @4951.9 with the multiplier at 23.5


----------



## ZombieWorm

Link.


----------



## Cobra26

Hi

How can i set the below ram to its native speed of 1600mhz with the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 i do not want to overclock or fiddle to much with the UEFI bios. The cpu used is a FX-9590. Ive also made a separate thread:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1473731/help-needed-for-sabertooth-990fx-r2-0-and-memory-settings-fx-9590
until later on i saw this thread...
Might as well ask it here as well.

Kingston KHX 1600C9D3K4/8GX 1.65V (4 x 2 GB) RAM
Timings as specified by manufacturer: 9-9-9-27 at 1.65V if running at 1600mhz.

Thx


----------



## ZombieWorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra26*
> 
> Hi
> 
> How can i set the below ram to its native speed of 1600mhz with the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 i do not want to overclock or fiddle to much with the UEFI bios. The cpu used is a FX-9590. Ive also made a separate thread:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1473731/help-needed-for-sabertooth-990fx-r2-0-and-memory-settings-fx-9590
> until later on i saw this thread...
> Might as well ask it here as well.
> 
> Kingston KHX 1600C9D3K4/8GX 1.65V (4 x 2 GB) RAM
> Timings as specified by manufacturer: 9-9-9-27 at 1.65V if running at 1600mhz.
> 
> Thx


Cobra,

In the Ai Tweaker sub menu you can select your desired memory frequency in there ("Memory Frequency").


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> . If I can run at 4.8 I will be happy as I know 5Ghz is going to be toasty. I have a H100 AIO cooler.
> 
> What voltages are people pushing to get 4.8?
> 
> Beforehand had it on a high multi with just 220 fsb running 4.7Ghz.


I am not sure for the 8320 as far as max volts, I would like to think your gonna temp out before you hit max speed with the cooling solution you currently have.

edit
I also noticed you have a single stick of single channel ram, I gotta ask is it in the DIMM 1 slot? also what happens do you get a BSOD or it won't post reboot, clock failure maybe be the result of the ram, by setting the multiplier high you are raising the ram frequency as well, if I am not mistaken.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> Yeah sorry sim, I just updated the CPU-Z requirement to join the club my current 24/7 info is on that. It is a r2 board RAM is corsair vengeance 1600mhz. If I can run at 4.8 I will be happy as I know 5Ghz is going to be toasty. I have a H100 AIO cooler.
> 
> What voltages are people pushing to get 4.8?
> 
> I have latest BIOS, I went back to defaults to flash this as I also had to RMA a PSU so starting from scratch again. Beforehand had it on a high multi with just 220 fsb running 4.7Ghz.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> . If I can run at 4.8 I will be happy as I know 5Ghz is going to be toasty. I have a H100 AIO cooler.
> 
> What voltages are people pushing to get 4.8?
> 
> Beforehand had it on a high multi with just 220 fsb running 4.7Ghz.
> 
> 
> 
> I am not sure for the 8320 as far as max volts, I would like to think your gonna temp out before you hit max speed with the cooling solution you currently have.
> 
> edit
> I also noticed you have a single stick of single channel ram, I gotta ask is it in the DIMM 1 slot? also what happens do you get a BSOD or it won't post reboot, clock failure maybe be the result of the ram, by setting the multiplier high you are raising the ram frequency as well, if I am not mistaken.
Click to expand...

average @ 4.8 = 1.45-1.5


----------



## vWvSTATICvWv

Well, I just found out what was slowing my Windows 8.1 boot times....It was Arcsoft Totalmedia Theatre. I can't believe I did another fresh install, went crazy over sata ports and drivers etc and it was a damn program








I uninstalled it and back to basically instant boot. I'm running DVDfab Media Player now with no problems.


----------



## Mega Man

dvdfab is an epic program


----------



## vWvSTATICvWv

Yea it is...I prefer BDrebuilder because it allows more control but there's certain things that Fab does that are top notch. The Fab media player is cool...it reminds me of VLC but it can open folders and mounted IMG's and menus.


----------



## ZombieWorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> I am not sure for the 8320 as far as max volts, I would like to think your gonna temp out before you hit max speed with the cooling solution you currently have.
> 
> edit
> I also noticed you have a single stick of single channel ram, I gotta ask is it in the DIMM 1 slot? also what happens do you get a BSOD or it won't post reboot, clock failure maybe be the result of the ram, by setting the multiplier high you are raising the ram frequency as well, if I am not mistaken.


Temps only hitting 51c according to HWmonitor, DIMM is 2 I think recalling the manual. No BSOD, just error when encoding but pumping more voltage seems to get past that.

Just interested in other board users successful settings.


----------



## Cobra26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> Cobra,
> 
> In the Ai Tweaker sub menu you can select your desired memory frequency in there ("Memory Frequency").


Thanks for the reply,

I will look into that option tomorrow when i assemble my pc.


----------



## hornedfrog86

Do you think that there is any danger in running the FX9590 on the Sabertooth R2.0? Mine seems to be working well and hits 5 GHz.


----------



## Mega Man

no it is one of the few boards rated for it


----------



## hornedfrog86

Thanks I was wondering what the maximum socket temperature would be?


----------



## ZombieWorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hornedfrog86*
> 
> Do you think that there is any danger in running the FX9590 on the Sabertooth R2.0? Mine seems to be working well and hits 5 GHz.


It's a perfect board to compliment it, offering decent phases etc.

Max socket would be around 62 I think before throttling occurs.


----------



## hornedfrog86

Thanks ZombieWorm, will throttling show up in CPU-Z?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hornedfrog86*
> 
> Thanks I was wondering what the maximum socket temperature would be?


70-80 at most, preferred in 70s


----------



## ZombieWorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hornedfrog86*
> 
> Thanks ZombieWorm, will throttling show up in CPU-Z?


Well if you were looking at it or logs yes, but you would see it on benchmark scores and when gaming. You can use overlays to display it.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hornedfrog86*
> 
> Thanks I was wondering what the maximum socket temperature would be?


Just curios what is your cooling solution Air or are you under water. I have been trying to get mine to run stable but to no avail I have had voltages so high it refuses to post I am currently @ 1.53 I was playing with it today I have had clock speeds up to 5.4 but unstable at 5.2 I ran it for about two hours and then it became unstable thought it was voltage so here I go again still messing with it. My temps on CPU never see over 44c ( I haven't seen that number for a while but the highest I remember) under load like heaven I'll see 37-40c ( this is HellsGate)

http://valid.canardpc.com/k9vhuy


----------



## hornedfrog86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> Well if you were looking at it or logs yes, but you would see it on benchmark scores and when gaming. You can use overlays to display it.


Thanks!


----------



## hornedfrog86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Just curios what is your cooling solution Air or are you under water. I have been trying to get mine to run stable but to no avail I have had voltages so high it refuses to post I am currently @ 1.53 I was playing with it today I have had clock speeds up to 5.4 but unstable at 5.2 I ran it for about two hours and then it became unstable thought it was voltage so here I go again still messing with it. My temps on CPU never see over 44c ( I haven't seen that number for a while but the highest I remember) under load like heaven I'll see 37-40c ( this is HellsGate)
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/k9vhuy


Hi, it is cooled on water by a Corsair H100i in a HAF-X case with push pull fans and good airflow out the top. Do you use Prime95? I do but I shut down at 61C under load.. You must have a great CPU! What cooling are you using?


----------



## ZombieWorm

Prime isn't the best for testing AMD cpu's, I have found a combination of Realbench 2 and playing proper games for a few hours will highlight any weaknesses. Prime will generate a ton of heat but not exactly what you will be doing day to day on your machine.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Just curios what is your cooling solution Air or are you under water. I have been trying to get mine to run stable but to no avail I have had voltages so high it refuses to post I am currently @ 1.53 I was playing with it today I have had clock speeds up to 5.4 but unstable at 5.2 I ran it for about two hours and then it became unstable thought it was voltage so here I go again still messing with it. My temps on CPU never see over 44c ( I haven't seen that number for a while but the highest I remember) under load like heaven I'll see 37-40c ( this is HellsGate)
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/k9vhuy


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hornedfrog86*
> 
> Hi, it is cooled on water by a Corsair H100i in a HAF-X case with push pull fans and good airflow out the top. Do you use Prime95? I do but I shut down at 61C under load.. You must have a great CPU! What cooling are you using?


There is 2 360 X30mm Rads in P/P and a 240X30mm in push only, a photon 170 with 2 D5 Vario pumps in the case.

this pic shows the hidden pump and XSPC 240 rad


----------



## hornedfrog86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> There is 2 360 X30mm Rads in P/P and a 240X30mm in push only, a photon 170 with 2 D5 Vario pumps in the case.
> 
> this pic shows the hidden pump and XSPC 240 rad


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> There is 2 360 X30mm Rads in P/P and a 240X30mm in push only, a photon 170 with 2 D5 Vario pumps in the case.
> 
> this pic shows the hidden pump and XSPC 240 rad


Wow, that is spectacular. my cooling set up is not worthy. 5 GHz requires 1.476V on mine in BIOS. I haven't gone higher so far.


----------



## hornedfrog86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> Prime isn't the best for testing AMD cpu's, I have found a combination of Realbench 2 and playing proper games for a few hours will highlight any weaknesses. Prime will generate a ton of heat but not exactly what you will be doing day to day on your machine.


Yes it overheats quickly with Prime. I think I will try your alternative solution. But if prime fails on a core then it must not be fully stable, right?


----------



## simsim44

Thanks. there are way better ones built here, Look around and you will see, guys with way more patients than me.LOL

yes if it falters at all during the run of the test it is not stable, heck I have run a lot of test some fail some don't


----------



## HerrisDevio

i was wondering what you all use for controlling your fans on the sabertooth up till recently ive used the asus sofware just wondering if there is a better low impact controler


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hornedfrog86*
> 
> Wow, that is spectacular. my cooling set up is not worthy. 5 GHz requires 1.476V on mine in BIOS. I haven't gone higher so far.


I'm sorry, but maybe it's 1.476V to *boot up* at 5GHz. Mine requires 1.55V+ to be IBT AVX stable at 5GHz, and that's with core temps in the mid 40s. Do you have all four modules/eight cores enabled (assuming octocore)?


----------



## draterrojam

Hey guys, not very good at overclocking (never done it before) but have read up and watched a bunch of guides on it. However, I'm not sure I want to pull the trigger just yet. My question(s) is, does the sabertooth 990fx r2 have an "auto overclock"? I see the optimal setting in the ez mode bios. For now, should I just turn that on to get a little overclock for a little better performance? Should I worry about anything like stability, etc etc. Any help would be great.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hornedfrog86*
> 
> Thanks ZombieWorm, will throttling show up in CPU-Z?
> 
> 
> 
> Well if you were looking at it or logs yes, but you would see it on benchmark scores and when gaming. You can use overlays to display it.
Click to expand...

jsut use HWinfo and be done with it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> Prime isn't the best for testing AMD cpu's, I have found a combination of Realbench 2 and playing proper games for a few hours will highlight any weaknesses. Prime will generate a ton of heat but not exactly what you will be doing day to day on your machine.


yea, that is not stable, and while that may be stable enough for you, please dont say that is enough for everyone, i dont think you have a full understanding of why it is important to be stable, again it may be enough for you, which is great, but this is a great reason why it pays to be stable, and why it is somewhat important, and it is very well written


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingCain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blakmumba;13120663*
> I seriously question the need for all this 24hr testing going on your brand new CPU, I see numerous cases here of guys bragging about their 24hr stress testing, or saying someones overclock is not stable because they haven't benched for 24 hrs.
> 
> 
> 
> How much experience have you had with overclocking? This attitude is generally reserved for amateur overclockers who have never had corrupted data.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> A stress test is running all of your CPU cores flat out for however long you run the test, unless of course a core drops out because your overclock is unstable, I see the need for short term testing say an hour or maybe 2, because it won't take that long for an unstable overclock to show itself, but 24hrs in my opinion is not necessary.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think you are confused. The error is not found because the CPU is at 100%. A major error, or more likely, many tiny irrecoverable errors, happen at any % of CPU usage. The programs are designed to find inconsistencies as fast as possible, utilizing all resources available to determine the stability. Its not lets see how hard we can squeeze your CPU till it breaks. Is it stressful? Sure, is the stress that causes error? No, that would be instability or heat. Another good way to test your cooling solution too I might add.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> There is not a thing on this planet designed to last forever, your precious CPU included when companies like Intel and AMD, guarantee their CPUs for 3 yr warranty time period, they're confident their CPUs will actually go past that time period, however that calculation is based on 3 yrs and beyond of normal use.
> 
> They know their CPUs are capable of lasting under normal spec'd use longer than the 3 yrs or they would not warranty them that long.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure why this is even here. This has nothing to do with stability testing, unless you are assuming that all CPUs that are brand new should not be tested @ stock settings? Which a CPU should be tested to ensure its not defective. Rare, but it can happen.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Now the cold hard fact is that overclocking your CPU will shorten its lifespan, but we accept that for the additional speed we gain, most of us will replace that cpu with an upgrade before is life expectancy arrives anyway, so taking it out of specifications is acceptable.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Has nothing to do with stability testing. Its about error prevention.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> However that's with normal day to day use, surfing the web, audio and video editing and converting, gaming, office documentation Etc, and though serious bench stress testing is necessary to achieve a stable overclock, what damage does stress testing over a 24 hr time period and beyond, actually do to shorten the lifespan of your new CPU.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Why would you even overclock then?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> For example if you stress test your new quad core CPU for 24hrs, and all 4 cores are running at 100% for 24 hrs, how much normal daily processing is lost, because no daily application uses all 4 cores at 100% for 24hrs, so at least think about that when you overclock your CPU, and use at least some kind of wisdom in your stress testing.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Again its not the stress that creates the error, its stress that finds the error. Errors can occur with as little as 1% core usage. The alternative is to use your computer until one day, your boot sector is corrupted, and Windows 7 repair, can't fix the files as the damage has occurred widespread through your file-system. At this point you are even lucky to recover data off the hard drive. Assuming you are still not using an unstable overclock, recovering data, will most likely keep it corrupt/re-corrupt it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Because if you don't think you're adding to shortening the life of your CPU, you're wrong!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Stress testing your CPU, if its adequately cooled, is not shortening your hardwares life, its the extra voltage/clock cycles from the overclock if anything. It sounds like you have a ton still to learn / grasp and thats okay. Overclocking has many useful applications, such as a technical server upgrade, gaming, scientific calculations, protein folding, etc. Many of those demand stability for personal and professional reasons. Folding requires 100% accurate data, or its wasteful time for both the user and server, which anyday can provide a cure to cancer (hopefully.) A non tested overclock in that field is extremely frowned upon by many people who dedicate entire machines to just folding.
> 
> I am not saying you have to stress test your CPU, or it will die and kill everything in your computer, but you are not going to convince anyone who knows what they are doing that its a waste of time.
> 
> I don't get why people are ever against having a fully stable system? It takes about a day if you actually have good settings. Maybe apathy or general laziness, but still, it will create so many headaches in the long run trying to figure out why the computer just doesn't want to work today.
Click to expand...




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hornedfrog86*
> 
> Wow, that is spectacular. my cooling set up is not worthy. 5 GHz requires 1.476V on mine in BIOS. I haven't gone higher so far.


i bet your not stable
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HerrisDevio*
> 
> i was wondering what you all use for controlling your fans on the sabertooth up till recently ive used the asus sofware just wondering if there is a better low impact controler


Aquaero 6 ! and i will never use anything but that
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hornedfrog86*
> 
> Wow, that is spectacular. my cooling set up is not worthy. 5 GHz requires 1.476V on mine in BIOS. I haven't gone higher so far.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sorry, but maybe it's 1.476V to *boot up* at 5GHz. Mine requires 1.55V+ to be IBT AVX stable at 5GHz, and that's with core temps in the mid 40s. Do you have all four modules/eight cores enabled (assuming octocore)?
Click to expand...

yep.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *draterrojam*
> 
> Hey guys, not very good at overclocking (never done it before) but have read up and watched a bunch of guides on it. However, I'm not sure I want to pull the trigger just yet. My question(s) is, does the sabertooth 990fx r2 have an "auto overclock"? I see the optimal setting in the ez mode bios. For now, should I just turn that on to get a little overclock for a little better performance? Should I worry about anything like stability, etc etc. Any help would be great.


even if it did it is not worth using, either it will over volt or not be stable. let me know if you need any help, it is fun and easy , just takes time !!~


----------



## ZombieWorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea, that is not stable, and while that may be stable enough for you, please dont say that is enough for everyone, i dont think you have a full understanding of why it is important to be stable, again it may be enough for you, which is great, but this is a great reason why it pays to be stable, and why it is somewhat important, and it is very well written


yea, equally let's not just dismiss other people's input. Ian Parry who works for OcUK (whom has a ton of world records) also says stress testing for hours on end with prime/IBT is not necessary. If you want to do that then fine, but to say that people "do not have a full understanding" is almost offensive to some people who have been overclocking for decades!


----------



## hornedfrog86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I'm sorry, but maybe it's 1.476V to *boot up* at 5GHz. Mine requires 1.55V+ to be IBT AVX stable at 5GHz, and that's with core temps in the mid 40s. Do you have all four modules/eight cores enabled (assuming octocore)?


Yes, I'm using all cores with 2 x 8 G.Skill 2133. It will do 2133 stock but not overclocked, 1600 MHz at 5GHz.


----------



## hornedfrog86

I've always gone for Prime95 stability - and I might be doing wishful thinking. Thanks, we'll see what better cooling can do with some more tweaking.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea, that is not stable, and while that may be stable enough for you, please dont say that is enough for everyone, i dont think you have a full understanding of why it is important to be stable, again it may be enough for you, which is great, but this is a great reason why it pays to be stable, and why it is somewhat important, and it is very well written
> 
> 
> 
> yea, equally let's not just dismiss other people's input. Ian Parry who works for OcUK (whom has a ton of world records) also says stress testing for hours on end with prime/IBT is not necessary. If you want to do that then fine, but to say that people "do not have a full understanding" is almost offensive to some people who have been overclocking for decades!
Click to expand...

yea... no

because i have sat here the last 2 years having to tell people that they will not get 5ghz stable on a 212, or h60/80/100 ( 100 can be done but super rare ) after they get all angry cause " people all over the interwebs " have it, but they dont show any







.

in 99% of threads on ocn , some proof of stability is required, this is not to be a jerk, but again for others help
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingCain*
> 
> How much experience have you had with overclocking? This attitude is generally reserved for amateur overclockers who have never had corrupted data.
> 
> I think you are confused. The error is not found because the CPU is at 100%. _*A major error, or more likely, many tiny irrecoverable errors, happen at any % of CPU usage*_. The programs are designed to find inconsistencies as fast as possible, utilizing all resources available to determine the stability. Its not lets see how hard we can squeeze your CPU till it breaks. Is it stressful? Sure, is the stress that causes error? No, that would be instability or heat. Another good way to test your cooling solution too I might add.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hornedfrog86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I'm sorry, but maybe it's 1.476V to *boot up* at 5GHz. Mine requires 1.55V+ to be IBT AVX stable at 5GHz, and that's with core temps in the mid 40s. Do you have all four modules/eight cores enabled (assuming octocore)?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I'm using all cores with 2 x 8 G.Skill 2133. It will do 2133 stock but not overclocked, 1600 MHz at 5GHz.
Click to expand...

what have you changed? ( volts )


----------



## ZombieWorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea... no
> 
> because i have sat here the last 2 years having to tell people that they will not get 5ghz stable on a 212, or h60/80/100 ( 100 can be done but super rare ) after they get all angry cause " people all over the interwebs " have it, but they dont show any
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> in 99% of threads on ocn , some proof of stability is required, this is not to be a jerk, but again for others help


yea.. no

Even if you pass a burn in test or leave it priming for hours and hours doesn't mean it's 100% stable. People have had prime 'stable' overclocks then reported a game proves otherwise with crashes, lockups, reboots etc.

Whilst I agree they are great to test as a tool, you don't have to waste endless hours priming to get a guarantee. As I can see from your regurgitation of material I am not going to embark on any debate over this, as in your head there is no countering. Have a nice day.


----------



## hornedfrog86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea... no
> 
> because i have sat here the last 2 years having to tell people that they will not get 5ghz stable on a 212, or h60/80/100 ( 100 can be done but super rare ) after they get all angry cause " people all over the interwebs " have it, but they dont show any
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> in 99% of threads on ocn , some proof of stability is required, this is not to be a jerk, but again for others help
> 
> what have you changed? ( volts )


Will let you know my full bios settings ASAP.


----------



## ZombieWorm

Interesting. I have a h100 and they are not a substitute for proper custom water cooling setups. So with an AIO cooler would 1.5v be sensible to get it running 4.8Ghz, is there a page on recommended settings in the BIOS to apply?


----------



## hornedfrog86

Setup the bios per:

http://youtu.be/hpupfeMTzkE


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> yea.. no
> 
> Even if you pass a burn in test or leave it priming for hours and hours doesn't mean it's 100% stable. People have had prime 'stable' overclocks then reported a game proves otherwise with crashes, lockups, reboots etc.
> 
> Whilst I agree they are great to test as a tool, you don't have to waste endless hours priming to get a guarantee. As I can see from your regurgitation of material I am not going to embark on any debate over this, as in your head there is no countering. Have a nice day.


first, I never said prime stable is only thing to do. there is a method, and no, you do not just prime. actually the best is encoding a blueray, you will not pass a session on a cpu that is not stable. that is what i do, i do not bother with prime anymore, and it even tests things like HT oc, which is not easily tested, i can pass hours of any gpu "stress" test and still fail dvdfab with an unstable ht
one of the reasons i know i am stable @3900 ht and i have not had any issues with any games.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> Interesting. I have a h100 and they are not a substitute for proper custom water cooling setups. So with an AIO cooler would 1.5v be sensible to get it running 4.8Ghz, is there a page on recommended settings in the BIOS to apply?


it can easily

this is my 24/7, if i dont oc my cpu/nb and ht i can push much farther and much lower voltage ! ( this is a known golden chip as it is a reviewers chip ) i have not had time to find max oc @ normal ht and cpu/nb
(click it and you can hit original and see it full size)


----------



## ZombieWorm

Any details of the BIOS settings for the sabertooth? In the past I have folded on the CPU overnight to stress the cores.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> Any details of the BIOS settings for the sabertooth? In the past I have folded on the CPU overnight to stress the cores.


i can definably help the above settings are on my ud7, sabertooth was my first board ( which i still own ) and the above oc was for ref on temps at 1.5+v

let me know what you need to know


----------



## ZombieWorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i can definably help the above settings are on my ud7, sabertooth was my first board ( which i still own ) and the above oc was for ref on temps at 1.5+v
> 
> let me know what you need to know


Nice.

In the Ai tweaker what settings were changed from auto, i.e. manually set MM


----------



## s4in7

Just created an account to let everyone know my FX-8320 is sitting at 4.816GHz at 1.38v on an H60 2013 Edition at a maximum 55°C load temp--haven't had a single crash or tinge of system instability.

I love this board! It's an original Rev1 Sabertooth 990FX











I pushed it to 5GHz with 60°C max load temperature, but I was only getting slightly better performance and didn't like being in the 60s (even though it's perfectly safe for an 8320).

5GHz on an H60 can be done! Just doesn't make sense to run it like that 24/7 when 4.8GHz offers virtually the same performance at 5°C cooler









Take it easy y'all!


----------



## s4in7

Oh--I forgot to include my Sabertooth BIOS settings:

Turbo disabled
APM disabled

CPU LLC to Ultra High
CPU/NB LLC to High
CPU Current to 130%
CPU/NB Current to 120%
CPU Power Phase to Extreme
CPU Voltage to Auto

I re-enabled Cool n Quiet and C6 after I settled on a 24/7 stable overclock


----------



## ZombieWorm

Can you share your settings s4in7?


----------



## s4in7

Sure! I left the base clock at 200MHz and upped the multiplier to 24X, which put me at 4816MHz.

My RAM is 16gb of G.skill Ares and is operating at 1866MHz CAS 10.

My cooling is a Corsair H60 2013 Edition is in push-pull configuration exhausting hot air out of the back of the case, 1x 140mm exhaust fan on top, 2x 120mm intake fan in the front, and 1x 120mm intake fan on the side.

I'm also running 2x R9 270Xs in Crossfire at 1150Mhz core/1500MHz memory.

Stable in all benchmarks (Unigine heaven/Valley, 3Dmark, Tessmark), and the games I play the most: Bioshock Infinite on Ultra, Titanfall on max settings.

These are my BIOS settings:

Turbo disabled
APM disabled
C1E disabled

CPU LLC to Ultra High
CPU/NB LLC to High
CPU Current to 130%
CPU/NB Current to 120%
CPU Power Phase to Extreme
CPU Voltage to Auto

I re-enabled Cool n Quiet and C6 after I settled on a 24/7 stable overclock smile.gif


----------



## draterrojam

deleted


----------



## ZombieWorm

Much appreciated s4in7!

I was trying high FSB, but doesn't seem to offer much improvement over multiplier like yours. Will give that a try.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s4in7*
> 
> Just created an account to let everyone know my FX-8320 is sitting at 4.816GHz at 1.38v on an H60 2013 Edition at a maximum 55°C load temp--haven't had a single crash or tinge of system instability.
> 
> I love this board! It's an original Rev1 Sabertooth 990FX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I pushed it to 5GHz with 60°C max load temperature, but I was only getting slightly better performance and didn't like being in the 60s (even though it's perfectly safe for an 8320).
> 
> 5GHz on an H60 can be done! Just doesn't make sense to run it like that 24/7 when 4.8GHz offers virtually the same performance at 5°C cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take it easy y'all!


you need to use the avx version IBT to test an 8320.... there is a link in the first post on the http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club
thread... that version you are using will miss a good bit of instability... and the avx version will give you 80+ gflops easy. Not picking on you at all, but just wanted to point that out so you could re run that test with the proper version for us to get an idea of just how stable it really is for anyone who might be looking.... and btw ... I can run 5.2 ghz at only 1.5 vcore without having any "sign" of instability... but I don't do much but game and image editing... as soon as I hit start on prime95 cores drop and IBT avx fails the first run....


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i can definably help the above settings are on my ud7, sabertooth was my first board ( which i still own ) and the above oc was for ref on temps at 1.5+v
> 
> let me know what you need to know
> 
> 
> 
> Nice.
> 
> In the Ai tweaker what settings were changed from auto, i.e. manually set MM
Click to expand...

llc high or ultra ( cpu/nb high ) all other settings depend on your socket/vrm cooling
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s4in7*
> 
> Just created an account to let everyone know my FX-8320 is sitting at 4.816GHz at 1.38v on an H60 2013 Edition at a maximum 55°C load temp--haven't had a single crash or tinge of system instability.
> 
> I love this board! It's an original Rev1 Sabertooth 990FX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I pushed it to 5GHz with 60°C max load temperature, but I was only getting slightly better performance and didn't like being in the 60s (even though it's perfectly safe for an 8320).
> 
> 5GHz on an H60 can be done! Just doesn't make sense to run it like that 24/7 when 4.8GHz offers virtually the same performance at 5°C cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take it easy y'all!


i hate to burst your bubble but there is almost no way you are stable. nor will your temps stay that low. you are not using ibt-avx ( see the opening post of the 83xx club in my sig for download ) you are using a very ancient stressing system that does not stress your system at all, your gflops should be 80ish not in the 40s if you download it, please note you need to run as admin, and you need to have a positive result NOT a neg, if it is neg you are not stable ( although it will tell you you are. ) it is rare to see a h100 be able to cool a 5ghz oc let alone a h60

not even to mention the fact you are only using 1gb of ram, 90+ % for best results


----------



## s4in7

Oh you're not bursting my bubble, you don't have to believe me but I'm perfectly stable--played BioShock Infinite on Ultra for hours on end with no problem. Same with Titanfall--haven't crashed a single time









"Almost no way you're stable" if I can play my games, run Ableton 9, IBT, and Prime95 Small FFTs for hours on end without EVER crashing then that's pretty damn stable to me.

All without breaking 55°C


----------



## s4in7

I'll run IBT AVX when I get home and post NY results


----------



## s4in7

I'll run IBT AVX when I get home and post my results.


----------



## s4in7

So I ran IBT AVX and it passed on the standard setting never breaking 52°C (I manually set all fans to max RPM in anticipation of a tougher test), albeit with negative results in the results pane.

Still, the program says it's stable, my crash-free user experience says it stable, and [email protected] running every night, all night without incident says it's stable so it's safe to say I'm stable


----------



## Mega Man

although i dont trust standard i do folding, i may have to get me a new chip, it seems they are getting pretty good . may wanna stop in the 83xx thread in my sig and say hi ~ nice chip man !


----------



## s4in7

For sure! Thanks man--seems like a cool community.


----------



## portals

Hi
I have got problem with hot ram under load(above 60C). I set goodram play ram to 1.65v 1600 mhz and cl8. I had a m4a98gtd pro before i bought this mb and ram was pretty cold even on 1.75v.
What can i do? My CPU fx-8350 is also hot because when i set 1.45v and 4400 mhz temperature rise to 65C after 10 minutes on WC system.


----------



## s4in7

What is your RAM brand and model number? Also what is your CPU cooling solution?


----------



## s4in7

@Mega Man

I forgot to tell you that I JUST bought this chip like not even a month ago from Newegg, what's the latest revision/stepping do you know?


----------



## Mega Man

no idea, i have 2 currently one is a 1229pgn ( reviewers chip )


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> My mainboard is an Asus M5a990Fx Evo rev 1.0 can I do better then FSB 260 Mhz with this CPU? On my other mainboard a GA-990FXA-UD3 rev. 3 the highest FSB was 257 Mhz. Thank you!
> 
> 
> 
> Now I own an Asus Sabertooth 990fx rev 2.0 and my oc is 4800mhz cpu @ fsb 300 mhz @ ram 2400 mhz @ nb 2400 mhz # ht 2800 mhz.
Click to expand...


----------



## ZombieWorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*


Recursion are you under water? Any settings other than the norm that helped?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> 
> 
> Recursion are you under water? Any settings other than the norm that helped?
Click to expand...

Yes, but not the cpu. You can look at my website in my sig. I have many screenshots but it's an old overclock. I can update my blog. Usually I put everything to extreme but I'm not an expert.


----------



## ZombieWorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Yes, but not the cpu. You can look at my website in my sig. I have many screenshots but it's an old overclock. I can update my blog. Usually I put everything to extreme but I'm not an expert.


One thing I have not dabbled in is the offset mode. To be honest the manuf manuals and the description in the BIOS are pretty poor and in BIOS revisions sometimes the description changes (making it worse or confusing).

If I want to push to see what it clocks to I guess I am best setting CPU to 1.5v and go with the multiplier. I have so far gone around 260fsb below 1.5v but I do not think the system is proper stable, maybe WC on the motherboard would be better suited to this?

RAM settings I have not really played with either. By the looks of it an aggressive RAM setup with high CPU multiplier is just as effective as trying to get a high fsb judging by other people's benchmarks. Recursion have you ran Cinebench or Realbench?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> One thing I have not dabbled in is the offset mode. To be honest the manuf manuals and the description in the BIOS are pretty poor and in BIOS revisions sometimes the description changes (making it worse or confusing).
> 
> If I want to push to see what it clocks to I guess I am best setting CPU to 1.5v and go with the multiplier. I have so far gone around 260fsb below 1.5v but I do not think the system is proper stable, maybe WC on the motherboard would be better suited to this?
> 
> RAM settings I have not really played with either. By the looks of it an aggressive RAM setup with high CPU multiplier is just as effective as trying to get a high fsb judging by other people's benchmarks. Recursion have you ran Cinebench or Realbench?


No Cinebench and no Realbench. fsb 300 is safe. I have read fsb 320 is possible with this mainboard (and cpu). I'm not sure if it works with the fx-4170?


----------



## ZombieWorm

So your not watercooling the CPU but are pumping 1.56v into CPU, do FX4's take more stock voltage?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> So your not watercooling the CPU but are pumping 1.56v into CPU, do FX4's take more stock voltage?


I'm not an expert and the screenshot was with full load. I think 1.548 is safe.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> One thing I have not dabbled in is the offset mode. To be honest the manuf manuals and the description in the BIOS are pretty poor and in BIOS revisions sometimes the description changes (making it worse or confusing).
> 
> If I want to push to see what it clocks to I guess I am best setting CPU to 1.5v and go with the multiplier. I have so far gone around 260fsb below 1.5v but I do not think the system is proper stable, maybe WC on the motherboard would be better suited to this?
> 
> RAM settings I have not really played with either. By the looks of it an aggressive RAM setup with high CPU multiplier is just as effective as trying to get a high fsb judging by other people's benchmarks. Recursion have you ran Cinebench or Realbench?
> 
> 
> 
> No Cinebench and no Realbench. fsb 300 is safe. I have read fsb 320 is possible with this mainboard (and cpu). I'm not sure if it works with the fx-4170?
Click to expand...

Did you my 3dmark benchmark? My biostar Ta870 and the Phenom b55 is cheaper and as fast as the sabertooth with fsb 300 and ram 2400 mhz. The fx and the sabertooth isn't really cheap and old.


----------



## ZombieWorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Did you my 3dmark benchmark? My biostar Ta870 and the Phenom b55 is cheaper and as fast as the sabertooth with fsb 300 and ram 2400 mhz. The fx and the sabertooth isn't really cheap and old.


No I have not checked the 3dmark out yet, I bought the FX8320 in october for £105 which I think was a great price, the board was quite expensive I agree but I wanted future crossfire support (16x pcie both lanes) and better than average chipset coolers.


----------



## portals

My ram is goodram play, cl8 1600 mhz 2 gb x 4 info from RAMMon below. This ram is quite old and don't have good info in SPD but work good on previous MB .

Code:



Code:


RAMMon v1.0 Build: 1012 built with SysInfo v1.0 Build: 1049
PassMark (R) Software
www.passmark.com

Memmory summary for PIOTREK-PC:
Number of Memory Devices: 4     Total Physical Memory: 8088 MB (8192 MB)
                                Total Available Physical Memory: 5876 MB
                                Memory Load: 27%

Item                                                                           | Slot #1               | Slot #2               | Slot #3               | Slot #4               | 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------|-----------------------|-----------------------|-----------------------|-----------------------|-
Ram Type                                                                       | DDR3                  | DDR3                  | DDR3                  | DDR3                  | 
       Maximum Clock Speed (MHz)                                               | 666.67 (JEDEC)        | 666.67 (JEDEC)        | 666.67 (JEDEC)        | 666.67 (JEDEC)        | 
       Maximum Transfer Speed (MHz)                                            | DDR3-1333             | DDR3-1333             | DDR3-1333             | DDR3-1333             | 
       Maximum Bandwidth (MB/s)                                                | PC3-10600             | PC3-10600             | PC3-10600             | PC3-10600             | 
Memory Capacity (MB)                                                           | 2048                  | 2048                  | 2048                  | 2048                  | 
Jedec Manufacture Name                                                         |                       |                       |                       |                       | 
Search Amazon.com                                                              | Search!               | Search!               | Search!               | Search!               | 
SPD Revision                                                                   | 1.0                   | 1.0                   | 1.0                   | 1.0                   | 
Registered                                                                     | No                    | No                    | No                    | No                    | 
ECC                                                                            | No                    | No                    | No                    | No                    | 
DIMM Slot #                                                                    | 1                     | 2                     | 3                     | 4                     | 
Manufactured                                                                   |                       |                       |                       |                       | 
Module Part #                                                                  | GY1600D364L8/2G       | GY1600D364L8/2G       | GY1600D364L8/2G       | GY1600D364L8/2G       | 
Module Revision                                                                | 0x0                   | 0x0                   | 0x0                   | 0x0                   | 
Module Serial #                                                                | 0x0                   | 0x0                   | 0x0                   | 0x0                   | 
Module Manufacturing Location                                                  | 0                     | 0                     | 0                     | 0                     | 
# of Row Addressing Bits                                                       | 14                    | 14                    | 14                    | 14                    | 
# of Column Addressing Bits                                                    | 10                    | 10                    | 10                    | 10                    | 
# of Banks                                                                     | 8                     | 8                     | 8                     | 8                     | 
# of Ranks                                                                     | 2                     | 2                     | 2                     | 2                     | 
Device Width in Bits                                                           | 8                     | 8                     | 8                     | 8                     | 
Bus Width in Bits                                                              | 64                    | 64                    | 64                    | 64                    | 
Module Voltage                                                                 | 1.5V                  | 1.5V                  | 1.5V                  | 1.5V                  | 
CAS Latencies Supported                                                        | 6 7 8 9               | 6 7 8 9               | 6 7 8 9               | 6 7 8 9               | 
Timings @ Max Frequency (JEDEC)                                                | 9-9-9-24              | 9-9-9-24              | 9-9-9-24              | 9-9-9-24              | 
       Maximum frequency (MHz)                                                 | 666.67                | 666.67                | 666.67                | 666.67                | 
       Maximum Transfer Speed (MHz)                                            | DDR3-1333             | DDR3-1333             | DDR3-1333             | DDR3-1333             | 
       Maximum Bandwidth (MB/s)                                                | PC3-10600             | PC3-10600             | PC3-10600             | PC3-10600             | 
       Minimum Clock Cycle Time, tCK (ns)                                      | 1.500                 | 1.500                 | 1.500                 | 1.500                 | 
       Minimum CAS Latency Time, tAA (ns)                                      | 13.125                | 13.125                | 13.125                | 13.125                | 
       Minimum RAS to CAS Delay, tRCD (ns)                                     | 13.125                | 13.125                | 13.125                | 13.125                | 
       Minimum Row Precharge Time, tRP (ns)                                    | 13.125                | 13.125                | 13.125                | 13.125                | 
       Minimum Active to Precharge Time, tRAS (ns)                             | 36.000                | 36.000                | 36.000                | 36.000                | 
       Minimum Row Active to Row Active Delay, tRRD (ns)                       | 6.000                 | 6.000                 | 6.000                 | 6.000                 | 
       Minimum Auto-Refresh to Active/Auto-Refresh Time, tRC (ns)              | 49.500                | 49.500                | 49.500                | 49.500                | 
       Minimum Auto-Refresh to Active/Auto-Refresh Command Period, tRFC (ns)   | 110.000               | 110.000               | 110.000               | 110.000               | 
                                                                               |                       |                       |                       |                       | 
DDR3 Specific SPD Attributes                                                   |                       |                       |                       |                       | 
       Write Recovery Time, tWR (ns)                                           | 15.000                | 15.000                | 15.000                | 15.000                | 
       Internal Write to Read Command Delay, tWTR (ns)                         | 7.500                 | 7.500                 | 7.500                 | 7.500                 | 
       Internal Read to Precharge Command Delay, tRTP (ns)                     | 7.500                 | 7.500                 | 7.500                 | 7.500                 | 
       Minimum Four Activate Window Delay, tFAW (ns)                           | 30.000                | 30.000                | 30.000                | 30.000                | 
       RZQ / 6 Supported                                                       | Yes                   | Yes                   | Yes                   | Yes                   | 
       RZQ / 7 Supported                                                       | Yes                   | Yes                   | Yes                   | Yes                   | 
       DLL-Off Mode Supported                                                  | Yes                   | Yes                   | Yes                   | Yes                   | 
       Maximum Operating Temperature Range (C)                                 | 0-95                  | 0-95                  | 0-95                  | 0-95                  | 
       Refresh Rate at Extended Operating Temperature Range                    | 2X                    | 2X                    | 2X                    | 2X                    | 
       Auto-self Refresh Supported                                             | No                    | No                    | No                    | No                    | 
       On-die Thermal Sensor Readout Supported                                 | No                    | No                    | No                    | No                    | 
       Partial Array Self Refresh Supported                                    | Yes                   | Yes                   | Yes                   | Yes                   | 
       Thermal Sensor Present                                                  | No                    | No                    | No                    | No                    | 
       Non-standard SDRAM Type                                                 | Standard Monolithic   | Standard Monolithic   | Standard Monolithic   | Standard Monolithic   | 
       Module Type                                                             | UDIMM                 | UDIMM                 | UDIMM                 | UDIMM                 | 
       Module Height (mm)                                                      | 30                    | 30                    | 30                    | 30                    | 
       Module Thickness (front), (mm)                                          | 2                     | 2                     | 2                     | 2                     | 
       Module Thickness (back), (mm)                                           | 2                     | 2                     | 2                     | 2                     | 
       Module Width (mm)                                                       | 133.5                 | 133.5                 | 133.5                 | 133.5                 | 
       Reference Raw Card Used                                                 | Raw Card B Rev. 0     | Raw Card B Rev. 0     | Raw Card B Rev. 0     | Raw Card B Rev. 0     | 
       DRAM Manufacture ID                                                     | 0                     | 0                     | 0                     | 0                     | 
       # of DRAM Rows                                                          | 0                     | 0                     | 0                     | 0                     | 
       # of Registers                                                          | 0                     | 0                     | 0                     | 0                     | 
       Register Manufacturer                                                   |                       |                       |                       |                       | 
       Register Type                                                           |                       |                       |                       |                       | 
       Register Revision                                                       | 0                     | 0                     | 0                     | 0                     |

I am uploading photo showing my CPU cooling system. It is using parts from Cooler Master Aquagate Max.

IMG_20140321_164333.jpg 2486k .jpg file


----------



## ZombieWorm

O.K so high multi with 200 fsb the core becomes flaky around 4.8+ even if I pump 1.5v it's not stable. Best combinatiojn so far is 264fsb and 18 multi.

Probably have a weak module in there, but I do not know how high I can take the vcore up to with a H100 cooler as I heard not to go above 1.5v.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> O.K so high multi with 200 fsb the core becomes flaky around 4.8+ even if I pump 1.5v it's not stable. Best combinatiojn so far is 264fsb and 18 multi.
> 
> Probably have a weak module in there, but I do not know how high I can take the vcore up to with a H100 cooler as I heard not to go above 1.5v.


I wouldn't stress 1.5-1.6. Is everthing else on extreme? I can't overclock >4.8 Mhz either.


----------



## Recursion

My Fx-4170 booted with fsb 305 mhz and cpu 4880 mhz @ nb 2440 mhz @ ht 2745 mhz. I can't wait to stress.


----------



## ZombieWorm

At 1.02v?? No way


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> At 1.02v?? No way


Yes, it's not working. fsb 300 is it. I think the ram is limiting. By the way is hybrid work for you? I have created the energytools because it's not working.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> My Fx-4170 booted with fsb 305 mhz and cpu 4880 mhz @ nb 2440 mhz @ ht 2745 mhz. I can't wait to stress.


I noticed the vcore was low too... but I also noticed that in the screenshot the core speed was 2.123 ghz sooo I'm assuming you had the power saving bits enabled in the bios and that's why the volts were low and core speed was low as well...


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> My Fx-4170 booted with fsb 305 mhz and cpu 4880 mhz @ nb 2440 mhz @ ht 2745 mhz. I can't wait to stress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed the vcore was low too... but I also noticed that in the screenshot the core speed was 2.123 ghz sooo I'm assuming you had the power saving bits enabled in the bios and that's why the volts were low and core speed was low as well...
Click to expand...

Yes,I have the powersavings enabled. I'm also the creator of the energytools. May I ask you if the Windows hibernation function can be a problem? When I don't touch Windows and with this sabertooth it was fsb 216 mhz Windows didn't hibernate!!!! I decided to create my energytools. It's free for personal use but please be kind and donate a few euros!!! Thank you!


----------



## SwishaMane

So I think my sabertooth is about to kick the bucket. Been acting up BAD since yesterday. Just randomly locks up for no reason, and having a hard time rebooting. I think my Samsung 840 pro is going too, as it was my primary thought for why my board was freezing, since it would cause my other s939 setup to freeze too. BUT the sabertooth is just, usually, refusing to boot.

I have to unplug power and hope for BIOS on reboot. With all hdds disconnected, I can boot into MemTest 86+ off CD, but it froze once during test in slots A, but is working for DRAM slots B. Once this is successful, Im going to switch to slots A with this current RAM and make sure all settings are the same. But I REALLY think the board is going out.

Its hard to describe completely, as Im kinda pissy too. I reflashed BIOS. Still problems. Im currently still in middle of memtest slots B, and not expecting slots A to go well. Its either them o the board completely. Good thing for 5 year warranty, because its only been 4 or so... he he

This is a rev 1.01 too. If I need to RMA, it'll probably be the rev 2.00?


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I never worry over sleep... I just turn it off when I leave lol... it boots soooo fast I don't have to wait anyway... but thanks for the offer


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I never worry over sleep... I just turn it off when I leave lol... it boots soooo fast I don't have to wait anyway... but thanks for the offer


It's not about sleep. My fans is still on. I mean the thing doesn't hibernate. Anyway you can visit my homepage and when the problems persist I'm sure you need some help. IMO and overclocker don't sleep either







.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I don't use hibernate sleep or anything the like... I just simple shut down... until I read others had the trouble I didn't know it could be a problem... thanks though... just not an issue for me...


----------



## ZombieWorm

What issue I am confuzzled?


----------



## Minotaurtoo

he has a fix for the hibernate problems with the sabertooth.... It never was an issue for me lol... just don't use it.. .never have even tried actually... once I built this rig I was soo amazed at how fast it booted I set it to never sleep or hibernate and just turn it on and off as needed... apparently I got lucky and set the bios settings right the first time for quick boot, some here has stated that the saberkitty is a slow booter... maybe I'm easy to please, but 10 seconds to login screen isn't long at all to me, so sleep and hibernate just isn't needed...


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> What issue I am confuzzled?


Most likely there is an error in Windows powersaving and high fsb. I think up to 216-260 mhz you can either sleep or hibernate or even sleep then hibernate.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> he has a fix for the hibernate problems with the sabertooth.... It never was an issue for me lol... just don't use it.. .never have even tried actually... once I built this rig I was soo amazed at how fast it booted I set it to never sleep or hibernate and just turn it on and off as needed... apparently I got lucky and set the bios settings right the first time for quick boot, some here has stated that the saberkitty is a slow booter... maybe I'm easy to please, but 10 seconds to login screen isn't long at all to me, so sleep and hibernate just isn't needed...


Can you elaborate a bit more? I'm not a Windows coder or a MS account manager. Hibernate and sleep is a special function. I just want to have my pc turn off. But because I'm also an *OVERCLOCKER* I need a special solution, too, because the original Windows function doesn't seem to work. I'm just curious I'm also worried about the consumption and I'm very often with my pc.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> So I think my sabertooth is about to kick the bucket. Been acting up BAD since yesterday. Just randomly locks up for no reason, and having a hard time rebooting. I think my Samsung 840 pro is going too, as it was my primary thought for why my board was freezing, since it would cause my other s939 setup to freeze too. BUT the sabertooth is just, usually, refusing to boot.
> 
> I have to unplug power and hope for BIOS on reboot. With all hdds disconnected, I can boot into MemTest 86+ off CD, but it froze once during test in slots A, but is working for DRAM slots B. Once this is successful, Im going to switch to slots A with this current RAM and make sure all settings are the same. But I REALLY think the board is going out.
> 
> Its hard to describe completely, as Im kinda pissy too. I reflashed BIOS. Still problems. Im currently still in middle of memtest slots B, and not expecting slots A to go well. Its either them o the board completely. Good thing for 5 year warranty, because its only been 4 or so... he he
> 
> This is a rev 1.01 too. If I need to RMA, it'll probably be the rev 2.00?


If reflash bios doesn't work maybe try to clear the cmos?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> So I think my sabertooth is about to kick the bucket. Been acting up BAD since yesterday. Just randomly locks up for no reason, and having a hard time rebooting. I think my Samsung 840 pro is going too, as it was my primary thought for why my board was freezing, since it would cause my other s939 setup to freeze too. BUT the sabertooth is just, usually, refusing to boot.
> 
> I have to unplug power and hope for BIOS on reboot. With all hdds disconnected, I can boot into MemTest 86+ off CD, but it froze once during test in slots A, but is working for DRAM slots B. Once this is successful, Im going to switch to slots A with this current RAM and make sure all settings are the same. But I REALLY think the board is going out.
> 
> Its hard to describe completely, as Im kinda pissy too. I reflashed BIOS. Still problems. Im currently still in middle of memtest slots B, and not expecting slots A to go well. Its either them o the board completely. Good thing for 5 year warranty, because its only been 4 or so... he he
> 
> This is a rev 1.01 too. If I need to RMA, it'll probably be the rev 2.00?


well. that could be any number of components @! i would like to know why you think it is the board?

did you reset to to default settings ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I don't use hibernate sleep or anything the like... I just simple shut down... until I read others had the trouble I didn't know it could be a problem... thanks though... just not an issue for me...


what does shut down mean ?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> well. that could be any number of components @! i would like to know why you think it is the board?
> 
> did you reset to to default settings ?
> what does shut down mean ?


@Megaman: I didn't try shut down but hibernate is nice. What about your Sabertooth and overclock? Does it work?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> well. that could be any number of components @! i would like to know why you think it is the board?
> 
> did you reset to to default settings ?


Memtest completed for all 4 slots. I manually reset all BIOS settings, and reformatted and installed Win7. Everything is working good as of right now. I also boosted voltage to NB and SB by a hair, but all is good so far. Used Parted Magic to format 840 Pro, no crashes yet.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Can you elaborate a bit more? I'm not a Windows coder or a MS account manager. Hibernate and sleep is a special function. I just want to have my pc turn off. But because I'm also an *OVERCLOCKER* I need a special solution, too, because the original Windows function doesn't seem to work. I'm just curious I'm also worried about the consumption and I'm very often with my pc.


I'm sorry... maybe I worded it wrong somehow... but I don't use hibernate or sleep... I just turn off the pc when I'm done... takes about 3-5 seconds to shutdown then about 10 seconds to boot up when I need it so I don't use any windows functions for sleep or hibernate. I also don't know any tricks or other softwares that can fix it either... well other than your tools that you mentioned

for the record, my main OC is bus speed 253mhz and core speed 4.80 ghz


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Can you elaborate a bit more? I'm not a Windows coder or a MS account manager. Hibernate and sleep is a special function. I just want to have my pc turn off. But because I'm also an *OVERCLOCKER* I need a special solution, too, because the original Windows function doesn't seem to work. I'm just curious I'm also worried about the consumption and I'm very often with my pc.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sorry... maybe I worded it wrong somehow... but I don't use hibernate or sleep... I just turn off the pc when I'm done... takes about 3-5 seconds to shutdown then about 10 seconds to boot up when I need it so I don't use any windows functions for sleep or hibernate.
> 
> for the record, my main OC is bus speed 253mhz and core speed 4.80 ghz
Click to expand...

IMO shutdown doesn't work either. I mean to scheduled shutdown when the pc is idle. Hibernation is to boot fast that's true but it also save energy and you start off where you left. So it's standby but full energy saving but fast like sleep.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

shutdown works fine for me, but I don't schedule it... I just turn off my pc when I walk off... but then, I don't have any tasks that I leave it on for anyway.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> shutdown works fine for me, but I don't schedule it... I just turn off my pc when I walk off... but then, I don't have any tasks that I leave it on for anyway.


Hmm. I see. But you get my point? It would be good for your pet







.


----------



## ZombieWorm

I only ever used to use sleep option on laptops when I was working away. Sometimes it did not awake properly when using outlook exchange servers etc so it has probably been broken for a while not just win7 or win8.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> shutdown works fine for me, but I don't schedule it... I just turn off my pc when I walk off... but then, I don't have any tasks that I leave it on for anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm. I see. But you get my point? It would be good for your pet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

I wonder why it's so important? Hibernation is just faster then to turn it off. Does it make sense?


----------



## Recursion

Update:Schedule shutdown doesn't work either. It seems high fsb is the culprit.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> well. that could be any number of components @! i would like to know why you think it is the board?
> 
> did you reset to to default settings ?
> what does shut down mean ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Megaman: I didn't try shut down but hibernate is nice. What about your Sabertooth and overclock? Does it work? You can download my Energytools and try?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> shutdown works fine for me, but I don't schedule it... I just turn off my pc when I walk off... but then, I don't have any tasks that I leave it on for anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm. I see. But you get my point? It would be good for your pet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I wonder why it's so important? Hibernation is just faster then to turn it off. Does it make sense?
Click to expand...

UPDATE no thanks, i disable hibernate, and have no want to ever enable it, nor shut down, sleep or anything else, all i ever shut my pc down for is benching !


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> well. that could be any number of components @! i would like to know why you think it is the board?
> 
> did you reset to to default settings ?
> what does shut down mean ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Megaman: I didn't try shut down but hibernate is nice. What about your Sabertooth and overclock? Does it work? You can download my Energytools and try?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> shutdown works fine for me, but I don't schedule it... I just turn off my pc when I walk off... but then, I don't have any tasks that I leave it on for anyway.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hmm. I see. But you get my point? It would be good for your pet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I wonder why it's so important? Hibernation is just faster then to turn it off. Does it make sense?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> UPDATE no thanks, i disable hibernate, and have no want to ever enable it, nor shut down, sleep or anything else, all i ever shut my pc down for is benching !
Click to expand...

Yes. If it's only Windows!?


----------



## simsim44

Need some insight to a newly developed problem, windows locks up after a short while. thought it might be software but I uninstalled all the futuremark stuff which is what was last installed then I noticed that it may be a "on time" thing which would point to a heat issue, I reset bios(had it clocked pretty good) to no avail, it still maybe a heat issue, although in what time I have I have not noticed "extreme heat" on any one thing. it is not a consistent time two minuets some times four, I secure erased one of the drive to eliminate cross program corruption , I am going to reset the cpu when I get back. anything else I should consider ? the problem is with "Hells Gate" I am posting from Hells Fear..


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Need some insight to a newly developed problem, windows locks up after a short while. thought it might be software but I uninstalled all the futuremark stuff which is what was last installed then I noticed that it may be a "on time" thing which would point to a heat issue, I reset bios(had it clocked pretty good) to no avail, it still maybe a heat issue, although in what time I have I have not noticed "extreme heat" on any one thing. it is not a consistent time two minuets some times four, I secure erased one of the drive to eliminate cross program corruption , I am going to reset the cpu when I get back. anything else I should consider ? the problem is with "Hells Gate" I am posting from Hells Fear..


just one question... have you tried booting from a portable OS.. or a fresh install with all unneeded hardware disconnected...

also could be ram failing... I've had hard drives fail cause that... just some things to think about.


----------



## simsim44

No on the remote OS, it was a thought. the 256g SSD in "HG" was defective and is in route back to me, when it arrive I will do a fresh install, this should remove any doubt of a software issue, I have removed the CPU it's good, still a little damp and full coverage, so that's that, I have thought about a RAM issue but should I not get a specific code/beep or a flashing LED on the motherboard? I do understand there has been reports of 4 dimm's filled as opposed to 2 dimm's issues on clocking RAM I do have all 4 DIMM's filled. I have gone back into bios to make sure that everything is set to it's default values, I even rest the GPU's to their defaults still no change... sitting here I am thinking that the info for the RMA is on the downed unit, I need the RMA # to find the status, damnit man, I'll need to remove the drive and plop it in the dock in this rig, Ooops thinking out loud again, ... This all started shortly after I updated 3D Mark, I had been trying to get a better result, afterwards it wouldn't finish the tests. I hadn't remembered that 3D Mark was also on the other drive and thought maybe there is cross program corruption so I secure erased the other drive to no avail. The current OS is on the Vector 512g drive, there are no programs on the other drives which are mechanical (WD 1T blues), just data, like pix and docs. thanks for your input, for me, it's good to have people to bounce thoughts off of. it's at that point I find the answers.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> No on the remote OS, it was a thought. the 256g SSD in "HG" was defective and is in route back to me, when it arrive I will do a fresh install, this should remove any doubt of a software issue, I have removed the CPU it's good, still a little damp and full coverage, so that's that, I have thought about a RAM issue but should I not get a specific code/beep or a flashing LED on the motherboard? I do understand there has been reports of 4 dimm's filled as opposed to 2 dimm's issues on clocking RAM I do have all 4 DIMM's filled. I have gone back into bios to make sure that everything is set to it's default values, I even rest the GPU's to their defaults still no change... sitting here I am thinking that the info for the RMA is on the downed unit, I need the RMA # to find the status, damnit man, I'll need to remove the drive and plop it in the dock in this rig, Ooops thinking out loud again, ... This all started shortly after I updated 3D Mark, I had been trying to get a better result, afterwards it wouldn't finish the tests. I hadn't remembered that 3D Mark was also on the other drive and thought maybe there is cross program corruption so I secure erased the other drive to no avail. The current OS is on the Vector 512g drive, there are no programs on the other drives which are mechanical (WD 1T blues), just data, like pix and docs. thanks for your input, for me, it's good to have people to bounce thoughts off of. it's at that point I find the answers.


sometimes the error won't show up... one thing to know about this board is that ECC is defaulted to enabled in the bios... that can cause issues so it would be a good idea to go into the bios and change that to disabled unless you are running ECC ram. I too run 4 slots full and have a happy OC @4.8ghz with no issues to report.... other than that... checking ram timings and such is a good idea... and of coarse a fresh install of your OS if all else fails to correct the problem... I can't help but to lean to RAM or Hard Drive problems though for the cause... in the past, most PC's that have come through my shop with unexplained freezes @ stock settings have either had one or the other be the cause... sometimes it has been defective cpu or heat issue, and the most rare cause has been defective main board.

Sorry for the lack of screen shots to show where the ECC option is at in the bios, but its not hard to find... make sure though you go to advanced mode and its under the advanced tab/ Northbridge/ Memory Configuration.


----------



## simsim44

I just did a ton of stuff, just looking stuff, not action stuff, while I was closing everything I noticed that when dragging a windowed item a crossed the screens from far right monitor to far left monitor I got a hang the center monitor could not process the data fast enough, after I closed everything I went to shutdown never made it froze up ..wait how about that, this is my other rig which is right next to the rig in question, so while I mess with it I can post with this one it just came back I am beginning to think there maybe a GPU issue... I know it came back because I click for the task manager ctl+alt+del, and the window popped up I closed the window and again it froze up, damnit man. I did manage to email myself some screen shots before it crapped out again.


----------



## simsim44

I uninstalled all Future mark and still have the 3D Mark program on the list when I hit uninstall it wants to install... I think there is an issue here.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

haven't dealt with too many gpu problems...thankfully, but its possible.. I've been pretty lucky in the gpu department... had a few failures, but most of them wouldn't even boot. At this point my first response is still the same, I would boot to another clean OS install on a fresh drive with all unneeded hardware unplugged just to test


----------



## carloyz250f

my fx8350 is only at 4.5ghz at 1.404v stable and already hitting 60c in small ffts my cooler is thermaltake water 3.0 extreme with corsair sp120 high-performance fan the liquid temperature is only 43.7c is this normal for my build? i want to atlist hit 4.8ghz my pc spec is asus sabertooth 990fx r2.0, aerocool 800w 80+silver psu, crossfire r9 270x. pleas help me.. thank you so much and sory for my bad english..


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> haven't dealt with too many gpu problems...thankfully, but its possible.. I've been pretty lucky in the gpu department... had a few failures, but most of them wouldn't even boot. At this point my first response is still the same, I would boot to another clean OS install on a fresh drive with all unneeded hardware unplugged just to test


I had previously wiped one of the drives so I did a fresh install on that drive the install went well it was not till I was loading the ASUS disc drivers that it hung, the time it took to hang was much longer than the times before, It did not recover I shut it down after 5ish minutes so down to GPU, RAM, Mainboard


----------



## hornedfrog86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> my fx8350 is only at 4.5ghz at 1.404v stable and already hitting 60c in small ffts my cooler is thermaltake water 3.0 extreme with corsair sp120 high-performance fan the liquid temperature is only 43.7c is this normal for my build? i want to atlist hit 4.8ghz my pc spec is asus sabertooth 990fx r2.0, aerocool 800w 80+silver psu, crossfire r9 270x. pleas help me.. thank you so much and sory for my bad english..


I get similar performance with an FX8350 but my temps are higher with an H100i.


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hornedfrog86*
> 
> I get similar performance with an FX8350 but my temps are higher with an H100i.


Thank you for rply. What are your temps volts and speed? Please..


----------



## simsim44

FWIW I have posted my concern in the more appropriate thread, as I don't think it is motherboard related, then again I'm not sure about anything at this point


----------



## hornedfrog86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> Thank you for rply. What are your temps volts and speed? Please..


1.376V. 52C prime small fft. Ambient 23C


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> my fx8350 is only at 4.5ghz at 1.404v stable and already hitting 60c in small ffts my cooler is thermaltake water 3.0 extreme with corsair sp120 high-performance fan the liquid temperature is only 43.7c is this normal for my build? i want to atlist hit 4.8ghz my pc spec is asus sabertooth 990fx r2.0, aerocool 800w 80+silver psu, crossfire r9 270x. pleas help me.. thank you so much and sory for my bad english..


1 please build a rig in rigbuilder ( see my sig )

2 what is your llc set to?

3 your fans are not great for rads, you should look into the AP series at the least


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> my fx8350 is only at 4.5ghz at 1.404v stable and already hitting 60c in small ffts my cooler is thermaltake water 3.0 extreme with corsair sp120 high-performance fan the liquid temperature is only 43.7c is this normal for my build? i want to atlist hit 4.8ghz my pc spec is asus sabertooth 990fx r2.0, aerocool 800w 80+silver psu, crossfire r9 270x. pleas help me.. thank you so much and sory for my bad english..
> 
> 
> 
> 1 please build a rig in rigbuilder ( see my sig )
> 
> 2 what is your llc set to?
> 
> 3 your fans are not great for rads, you should look into the AP series at the least
Click to expand...

You can use a pc also to download big archives or record tv.. Then often you want the pc automatically turn off or hibernate after it finished the work.


----------



## ZombieWorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> my fx8350 is only at 4.5ghz at 1.404v stable and already hitting 60c in small ffts my cooler is thermaltake water 3.0 extreme with corsair sp120 high-performance fan the liquid temperature is only 43.7c is this normal for my build? i want to atlist hit 4.8ghz my pc spec is asus sabertooth 990fx r2.0, aerocool 800w 80+silver psu, crossfire r9 270x. pleas help me.. thank you so much and sory for my bad english..


What case is it in, and what are the cards (reference, aftermarket)?

Poor airflow in the case wont help and if both cards are dumping heat in there it wont be good. I had a 7990 and it made my internal temp 20c warmer..


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> What case is it in, and what are the cards (reference, aftermarket)?
> 
> Poor airflow in the case wont help and if both cards are dumping heat in there it wont be good. I had a 7990 and it made my internal temp 20c warmer..


My gpu is msi r9 270x 2gig bf4 edition. I have 5 intake fan and the only exhaus is my radiator fan. My case is corsair 300r my radiator is mounted on top acting as exhaus.


----------



## ZombieWorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> My gpu is msi r9 270x 2gig bf4 edition. I have 5 intake fan and the only exhaus is my radiator fan. My case is corsair 300r my radiator is mounted on top acting as exhaus.


Hmm, maybe all that warm air pulling through the radiator isn't the best idea. Will check out your case and have a think.


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> Hmm, maybe all that warm air pulling through the radiator isn't the best idea. Will check out your case and have a think.


Thank you so much.


----------



## ZombieWorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> Thank you so much.


No problem.

Explain or draw your fan configuration buddy


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> No problem.
> 
> Explain or draw your fan configuration buddy


Is this good?


----------



## ZombieWorm

Yeah good pic.

I would either:


Turn round the top left fan by the neon so all the airflow is being pulled up. or
Turn round both the window fans so they are sucking away air from the GPU's
Note your temps with the system full tilt before doing any changes, then test both the suggestions and see if that makes any difference.


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> Yeah good pic.
> 
> I would either:
> 
> 
> Turn round the top left fan by the neon so all the airflow is being pulled up. or
> Turn round both the window fans so they are sucking away air from the GPU's
> Note your temps with the system full tilt before doing any changes, then test both the suggestions and see if that makes any difference.


Thank you. I will do the surgeries tomorrow coz its 11:33pm here in the philippnes and my room light is not that bright.


----------



## ZombieWorm

OK carloyz, good luck and good night!


----------



## Th_Remedy

So This driver pack surprisingly found some obscure driver updates and lowered my DPC latency by a moderate bit!
when I translated the page to english from Russian i had issues with the link? I'm tired maybe it's my mistake, but excuse the russian =p
скачать драйвер]http://drp.su]скачать драйвер


----------



## ZombieWorm

What is the driver for?


----------



## Th_Remedy

It's a package of drivers, and it's free or you can "not"add .torrent to a google search of it's name and find the "VIP" version. It's a open source driver update package/program/dvd it's pretty cool.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th_Remedy*
> 
> It's a package of drivers, and it's free or you can "not"add .torrent to a google search of it's name and find the "VIP" version. It's a open source driver update package/program/dvd it's pretty cool.


Those all-in-one driver installer wants money and don't find all the devices.


----------



## ZombieWorm

I would unlikely install a driver package that was not provided from the manufacturer.


----------



## Th_Remedy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Those all-in-one driver installer wants money and don't find all the devices.


Well I mean I'm not their biggest advocate, but I was found to be wrong (in my head anyway) because that is sort of what I thought.

This one you can get VIP (full no bs) by doing i think it's 5x tasks? None of them I saw cost money (post a link and let them verify it on any forum / blog or invite a friend etc) Also this is the internet and a popular software application we are talking about cough unlocked/modified apps .torrent cough. Sorry iv had a cold







so I don't foresee anyone HAVING to pay for this if they didn't feel inclined. I had a great experience in terms of accuracy of finding like I said obscure drivers (my USB 3.0 ASmedia controller, and the IDE AMD controller (set DVD-RW drive to IDE for giggles and boredom). I am a nerd / enthusiast so the big system components I already had updated drivers, but it was nice it checked just in case you know derp happens.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th_Remedy*
> 
> Well I mean I'm not their biggest advocate, but I was found to be wrong (in my head anyway) because that is sort of what I thought.
> 
> This one you can get VIP (full no bs) by doing i think it's 5x tasks? None of them I saw cost money (post a link and let them verify it on any forum / blog or invite a friend etc) Also this is the internet and a popular software application we are talking about cough unlocked/modified apps .torrent cough. Sorry iv had a cold
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so I don't foresee anyone HAVING to pay for this if they didn't feel inclined. I had a great experience in terms of accuracy of finding like I said obscure drivers (my USB 3.0 ASmedia controller, and the IDE AMD controller (set DVD-RW drive to IDE for giggles and boredom). I am a nerd / enthusiast so the big system components I already had updated drivers, but it was nice it checked just in case you know derp happens.


I hate the internet







. The idea isn't bad at all but it's a bit like scam. Their website often looks like official manufactur website and it's not. Anyway if you want a good perfomance boost install the newest amd pci bus driver. When you run the CCC installer it doesn't install all the driver. SMBus, IOMM and PCI bus driver for example. IMO even the AHCI driver has an separate installer: http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=373501


----------



## Th_Remedy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I hate the internet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The idea isn't bad at all but it's a bit like scam. Their website often looks like official manufactur website and it's not. Anyway if you want a good perfomance boost install the newest amd pci bus driver. When you run the CCC installer it doesn't install all the driver. SMBus, IOMM and PCI bus driver for example. IMO even the AHCI driver has an separate installer: http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=373501


Scam? They don't ask for money haha. at least they haven't asked me and I did a scan, an update and install of drivers once, then updated the program it self for free of course, and scaned, installed once more. So I'm not sure how you feel it's scammy. If you hate the internet, well I could give you some advice on that, but I think you might have an idea of what it would be? I agree that installing the PCI bus driver is a good idea, and could lead to gains in performance. It's sort of what the plan for the software is? haha I can't change your mind and that is fine, but I got a giggle out of these last couple replys.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th_Remedy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I hate the internet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The idea isn't bad at all but it's a bit like scam. Their website often looks like official manufactur website and it's not. Anyway if you want a good perfomance boost install the newest amd pci bus driver. When you run the CCC installer it doesn't install all the driver. SMBus, IOMM and PCI bus driver for example. IMO even the AHCI driver has an separate installer: http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=373501
> 
> 
> 
> Scam? They don't ask for money haha. at least they haven't asked me and I did a scan, an update and install of drivers once, then updated the program it self for free of course, and scaned, installed once more. So I'm not sure how you feel it's scammy. If you hate the internet, well I could give you some advice on that, but I think you might have an idea of what it would be? I agree that installing the PCI bus driver is a good idea, and could lead to gains in performance. It's sort of what the plan for the software is? haha I can't change your mind and that is fine, but I got a giggle out of these last couple replys.
Click to expand...

Yes, I'm not an expert but I think it's not good idea at all.


----------



## Th_Remedy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Yes, I'm not an expert but I think it's not good idea at all.


Cool cool. I just thought the things you brought up were, well I brought up what I thought =p Just posted it here to 1. help someone somewhere sometime I hope (like say people who re install windows a lot. mass driver update and storage media sure would be handy) and it got me like 20% closer to my now 100% free VIP or what ever (not that i couldn't have just found a mod'd version)


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th_Remedy*
> 
> Cool cool. I just thought the things you brought up were, well I brought up what I thought =p Just posted it here to 1. help someone somewhere sometime I hope (like say people who re install windows a lot. mass driver update and storage media sure would be handy) and it got me like 20% closer to my now 100% free VIP or what ever (not that i couldn't have just found a mod'd version)


Hmm, I just looked into the source code, I'm a bit scared. There isn't any source code for such a huge program in the repository at all? I may be wrong, but last time I saw a true scam also from Russians is from this site:http://www.coderbag.com/Programming-C/Disable-CPU-Core-Parking-Utility. Don't use this tool if you can. The first version of this tool seems to work a bit, but the latest version not. It will put your cores to the highest p-state possible and has IMO nothing to do with core-parking like Windows. I wonder how he get his good reputation? But it's just my opinion and I also think it's very difficult to build up a good reputation and sell a product. BTW. you get a working core-parking tool from Bitsum. It also works für Turion CPU!!


----------



## Th_Remedy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, I just looked into the source code, I'm a bit scared. There isn't any source code for such a huge program in the repository at all? I may be wrong, but last time I saw a true scam also from Russians is from this site:http://www.coderbag.com/Programming-C/Disable-CPU-Core-Parking-Utility. Don't use this tool if you can. The first version of this tool seems to work a bit, but the latest version not. It will put your cores to the highest p-state possible and has IMO nothing to do with core-parking like Windows. I wonder how he get his good reputation? But it's just my opinion and I also think it's very difficult to build up a good reputation and sell a product. BTW. you get a working core-parking tool from Bitsum. It also works für Turion CPU!!


Also from Russians? Please tell me you didn't insinuate a connection due to country of origin, because that would just be silly to be subtle. You seem just determined to make vague remarks about this. I already said I don't yearn to change your mind, and honestly you don't come off like you know much of anything about anything regarding this.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th_Remedy*
> 
> Also from Russians? Please tell me you didn't insinuate a connection due to country of origin, because that would just be silly to be subtle. You seem just determined to make vague remarks about this. I already said I don't yearn to change your mind, and honestly you don't come off like you know much of anything about anything regarding this.


Why ask? You seems to understand me and why it would be silly? Most people tell me I'm childish. Maybe? Children can be very cruel.


----------



## Th_Remedy

Riiiiiight. Have a good one d00d


----------



## ZombieWorm

How do you guys come to the conclusion that you need drivers?

If you check device manager, unless there is a warning or you are experiencing issues surely there is something I am overlooking here?

The motherboard support doesn't list many drivers, perhaps because 8.1 is so new or maybe they are not supporting it until issues are raised.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> How do you guys come to the conclusion that you need drivers?
> 
> If you check device manager, unless there is a warning or you are experiencing issues surely there is something I am overlooking here?
> 
> The motherboard support doesn't list many drivers, perhaps because 8.1 is so new or maybe they are not supporting it until issues are raised.


You didn't read. The CCC doesn't install all driver and most likely there is newer driver then the Asus driver. Sometimes it helps sometimes not but I can recommend you the pci bus thingy and ahci thingy. These are important thingy in von-neumann architecture.


----------



## ZombieWorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> You didn't read. The CCC doesn't install all driver and most likely there is newer driver then the Asus driver. Sometimes it helps sometimes not but I can recommend you the pci bus thingy and ahci thingy. These are important thingy in von-neumann architecture.


Isnt the CCC for displays, what is it to do with "pci bus thingy" and "ahci thingy"? Chipset drivers etc..


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> You didn't read. The CCC doesn't install all driver and most likely there is newer driver then the Asus driver. Sometimes it helps sometimes not but I can recommend you the pci bus thingy and ahci thingy. These are important thingy in von-neumann architecture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Isnt the CCC for displays, what is it to do with "pci bus thingy" and "ahci thingy"? Chipset drivers etc..
Click to expand...

I'm not an expert but it can be a patent thingy. In technology many things is patented. It's very business oriented. The video adapter needs also to be capable of playing audio. For example when you have an htpc. In CCC AMD also ships the southbridge driver and audio driver not only the video driver. IMO the installer is a bit cheap maybe there is a production deadline or so. Often the product is not supported anymore. It's really complicated because a pc has so many api's and interfaces. I think it's a little wonder that it works like it works. Men was on the moon, or not?


----------



## Th_Remedy

So the driver came up because I was testing my DPC latency (input lag..ish) and noticed it was a little bit higher then once was at for long period. Honestly I was bored and im ADHD and got fixated on remedying it. I had read other places previously that DPC latency can rise due to either malfunctioning , missing , out of date, or drivers from devices you are not using/ will not use anymore. But sometimes it pays off to poke around in device manager, and on your hardware manufacturers site to just see what version driver you have, and what is available. Def do not 100% trust the device managers "search for updated " function because it fails often or just doesn't know of the new driver.


----------



## ZombieWorm

Yes I understand. But historically on motherboards you installed the chipset drivers, sound drivers, LAN driver etc and all were separate downloads.

When you go to asus site for this motherboard, if your using 8.1 there is not much there. So either windows is using a default driver or it is selecting the appropriate vendor from a datasource.

CCC may weave into the sound etc but for chipsets?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> Yes I understand. But historically on motherboards you installed the chipset drivers, sound drivers, LAN driver etc and all were separate downloads.
> 
> When you go to asus site for this motherboard, if your using 8.1 there is not much there. So either windows is using a default driver or it is selecting the appropriate vendor from a datasource.
> 
> CCC may weave into the sound etc but for chipsets?


That's top secret but a Windows driver license is a huge fee.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th_Remedy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Those all-in-one driver installer wants money and don't find all the devices.
> 
> 
> 
> Well I mean I'm not their biggest advocate, but I was found to be wrong (in my head anyway) because that is sort of what I thought.
> 
> This one you can get VIP (full no bs) by doing i think it's 5x tasks? None of them I saw cost money (post a link and let them verify it on any forum / blog or invite a friend etc) Also this is the internet and a popular software application we are talking about cough unlocked/modified apps .torrent cough. Sorry iv had a cold
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so I don't foresee anyone HAVING to pay for this if they didn't feel inclined. I had a great experience in terms of accuracy of finding like I said obscure drivers (my USB 3.0 ASmedia controller, and the IDE AMD controller (set DVD-RW drive to IDE for giggles and boredom). I am a nerd / enthusiast so the big system components I already had updated drivers, but it was nice it checked just in case you know derp happens.
Click to expand...

most of them are either for a fee/and or install "______"ware (mal ware, all the bad wares ) , you basically open up your pc to anything they want, which can lead to alot of bad things in life, which when done is to target a demographic of pc users ( IE people who dont "do" pcs )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> How do you guys come to the conclusion that you need drivers?
> 
> If you check device manager, unless there is a warning or you are experiencing issues surely there is something I am overlooking here?
> 
> The motherboard support doesn't list many drivers, perhaps because 8.1 is so new or maybe they are not supporting it until issues are raised.


i always run the latest ! in many cases you get better performance


----------



## philhalo66

Got my sabertooth 990FX R2.0 yesterday







http://valid.x86.fr/e2nbqz


----------



## Th_Remedy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> most of them are either for a fee/and or install "______"ware (mal ware, all the bad wares ) , you basically open up your pc to anything they want, which can lead to alot of bad things in life, which when done is to target a demographic of pc users ( IE people who dont "do" pcs )
> i always run the latest ! in many cases you get better performance


Yeah I agree, as I was saying my perception going in was poor to say the least, but yeah I mean they let me do everything, and I backed up a DVD incase i have a buddy or my self just derps and for some reason need a BIG OL dvd full of drivers of many kinds. No charges, no hot scans, no security vulnerabilities or anything yet. I mean I dont care about this company from Adam, but I find my self feeling bad, as ppl bash them and think of some other driver packs / software devs actions for why. As of yet this seems to be what they say it is. At least it has been for me.


----------



## LtStinger

Hey fellas, just picked up the Sabertooth R2.0 and will be joining this fine club of gentlemen & women.

I have a real quick question, I'm using a 955BE C3 in this board and having a lot of trouble monitoring temps.

Running at only 1.35V with a 3.7GHC multi-only overclock, I'm getting CoreTemp temperatures up to 63 degrees on blend prime. My last board handled this clock with better temps so I'm wondering if I should remount or not.

I noticed that CoreTemp shows my TJMax at 90C now, where my last board it was an accurate 62. So I used Asus Ai suite (just checking out this little guy, not sure I like it) and the readings are much lower.

I have read that Asus Ai should not be used for temp monitoring, and that it measures the cpu and not the core, something about coretemp uses a calculation, jeez...

Guys, what should I use with this board to monitor temperatures?


----------



## Mega Man

first amd uses a calculation for the core temp, it is more accurate the more load is on the cpu

cpu has 2 temps, core and socket, if core is less then 40c use socket if over then use core,

just do yourself a favor and download hwinfo cpu 0 is core and monitors all extra temp sensors as well


----------



## gavstapo

Just installed my 990fx r2.0 yesterday, seem to have things running ok. Any advice on performance or just general tips n tricks would be appreciated. I've updated the Bios to 2301 and did the auto oc tune through bios.


----------



## Mega Man

manually oc not auto oc !


----------



## LtStinger

Yeah I tested out that neat little feature and was disappointed to an extreme degree. I LOL'd how it spec'd my system, won't do that again.


----------



## gavstapo

Ok, I shall try to do it manually then. Total noob when it comes to overclocking which I'm sure is evident... I'll read up and give it a go when I'm more a little more confident.


----------



## carloyz250f

i just want to ask, why my TMPIN2 is 128c? i already uninstall my ai suit but still the same 128c on TMPIN2. is this normal for asus sabertooth 990fx r 2.0?


----------



## Th_Remedy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> i just want to ask, why my TMPIN2 is 128c? i already uninstall my ai suit but still the same 128c on TMPIN2. is this normal for asus sabertooth 990fx r 2.0?


I know my saberkitty R. 2.0 did this exact thing, but only with CPUID which would be one of the several reasons after getting used to HWINFO I'll not go back any time soon =p. Short answer: Yes I think it is something most or all do.


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th_Remedy*
> 
> I know my saberkitty R. 2.0 did this exact thing, but only with CPUID which would be one of the several reasons after getting used to HWINFO I'll not go back any time soon =p. Short answer: Yes I think it is something most or all do.


Thank you so much. Saberkitty makes me laugh. Hahaha.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th_Remedy*
> 
> I know my saberkitty R. 2.0 did this exact thing, but only with CPUID which would be one of the several reasons after getting used to HWINFO I'll not go back any time soon =p. Short answer: Yes I think it is something most or all do.


Yes its a misread sensor mine also claims its 128C


----------



## Th_Remedy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> Thank you so much. Saberkitty makes me laugh. Hahaha.


I have a big tiger tat on my left shoulder, and my partner (soon to be husband) has for almost our entire time knowing each other (5 years) called me Tiger as just kind of a sweet name, I call him panda, because he's cute and cuddly (cheesy, but hey I'll take that) so I won't lie, the board is amazing, but the name and the nickname Saberkitty was a large part of my purchasing choice =p


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th_Remedy*
> 
> I have a big tiger tat on my left shoulder, and my partner (soon to be husband) has for almost our entire time knowing each other (5 years) called me Tiger as just kind of a sweet name, I call him panda, because he's cute and cuddly (cheesy, but hey I'll take that) so I won't lie, the board is amazing, but the name and the nickname Saberkitty was a large part of my purchasing choice =p


Hahaha.. thank you tiger.


----------



## draterrojam

just go into the bios and do what panda did below


----------



## ZombieWorm

Dont install the guff that comes on the CD. Use HW monitor and as MegaMan said above manually overclock.

Use this thread (beginning) and the AMD>CPUs>[Official] FX832 thread for settings


----------



## drongy

new bios for sabertooth 990fx r2
SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 BIOS 2301
Improve system stability.


----------



## simsim44

When was that released ? 2301 I have 2104 seems like I am way behind


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> Dont install the guff that comes on the CD. Use HW monitor _*HWINFO*_ and as MegaMan said above manually overclock.
> 
> Use this thread (beginning) and the AMD>CPUs>[Official] FX832 thread for settings


fixed for you


----------



## SwishaMane

New motherboard day has come...


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> When was that released ? 2301 I have 2104 seems like I am way behind


This past Thursday. I'm going to give it a shot - came by here to see if anyone had used it yet!


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> This past Thursday. I'm going to give it a shot - came by here to see if anyone had used it yet!


You are the first as far as "I" know, and that's not saying much, let us know how things turn out, I will have to research to see what the release notes are. if any.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> This past Thursday. I'm going to give it a shot - came by here to see if anyone had used it yet!
> 
> 
> 
> You are the first as far as "I" know, and that's not saying much, let us know how things turn out, I will have to research to see what the release notes are. if any.
Click to expand...

The release date is from 01/06/2014. I don't think it fixec the hibernation resume wake up nor the S3 sleep wake up resume recovery.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> The release date is from 01/06/2014


Where do you see this? Support page says 03/27 and the archive was built on 03/27


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> This past Thursday. I'm going to give it a shot - came by here to see if anyone had used it yet!


I'm running the 2301 and it seems fine for me i haven't had any issues at all i even used MyLogo to replace the splash screen without issue.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> The release date is from 01/06/2014
> 
> 
> 
> Where do you see this? Support page says 03/27 and the archive was built on 03/27
Click to expand...

I didn't tried it. I saw a post about it in the searchengine.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> This past Thursday. I'm going to give it a shot - came by here to see if anyone had used it yet!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running the 2301 and it seems fine for me i haven't had any issues at all i even used MyLogo to replace the splash screen without issue.
Click to expand...

What about sleep and resume? Up to 216-260 it's broken?


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> What about sleep and resume? Up to 216-260 it's broken?


I Always disable sleep because it causes issues for me.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> What about sleep and resume? Up to 216-260 it's broken?
> 
> 
> 
> I Always disable sleep because it causes issues for me.
Click to expand...

And hibernation?


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> And hibernation?


I have that disabled because last time i tried it my system would not boot till i completely powered down 3 times


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> And hibernation?
> 
> 
> 
> I have that disabled because last time i tried it my system would not boot till i completely powered down 3 times
Click to expand...

Did it work,I.e no sleep,no hibernation? How do you it turn-off? There is the mst standby tools. Have you tried it?


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Did it work,I.e no sleep,no hibernation? How do you it turn-off? There is the mst standby tools. Have you tried it?


I haven't tried it since i updated the BIOS, i also didn't even know Microsoft had a tool for that. and if your asking if turning off hibernation and sleep worked then yes it works fine. and when it was acting weird with the hibernation thing i had to hold the power button and flip the switch on my power supply


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Did it work,I.e no sleep,no hibernation? How do you it turn-off? There is the mst standby tools. Have you tried it?
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't tried it since i updated the BIOS, i also didn't even know Microsoft had a tool for that.
Click to expand...

It's not from Microsoft. So you manually use the powe switch?


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> It's not from Microsoft. So you manually use the powe switch?


Pretty much it's really the only way to fix it when it hangs like that


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> It's not from Microsoft. So you manually use the powe switch?
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty much it's really the only way to fix it when it hangs like that
Click to expand...

.
I've a fix for hibernation problem. You can send me a p.m. if you want







.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> .
> I've a fix for hibernation problem. You can send me a p.m. if you want
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I'm all set thanks i never really seen a practical use for it because when im not using my computer i just shut it off windows 8 boots so fast i dont even need to wait for it to be usable


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> .
> I've a fix for hibernation problem. You can send me a p.m. if you want
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> I'm all set thanks i never really seen a practical use for it because when im not using my computer i just shut it off windows 8 boots so fast i dont even need to wait for it to be usable
Click to expand...

Do you know what is hibernation? Do use a timer to turn it off? Like a screensaver? A htpc or a big download would leave your pc all the time on!!!???


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by Recursion
> 
> It's not from Microsoft. So you manually use the powe switch?


Pretty much i don't really need the hibernation thing anyway


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Do you know what is hibernation? Do use a timer to turn it off? Like a screensaver? A htpc or a big download would leave your pc all the time on!!!???


i usually just leave it on unless i'm not going to be back for a few hours then i shut it off


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Do you know what is hibernation? Do use a timer to turn it off? Like a screensaver? A htpc or a big download would leave your pc all the time on!!!???
> 
> 
> 
> i usually just leave it on unless i'm not going to be back for a few hours then i shut it off
Click to expand...

So,it doesn't turn it self off? Like I said I have a fix for hibernation even with high fsb. You can set s timer and it hibernates and when you come back you start where it left. Why would you not use hibernation?


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> So,it doesn't turn it self off? Like I said I have a fix for hibernation even with high fsb. You can set s timer and it hibernates and when you come back you start where it left. Why would you not use hibernation?


nope it just stays on, i don't really need it to auto turn off it doesn't draw very much power at idle so i just leave it on all the time


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> So,it doesn't turn it self off? Like I said I have a fix for hibernation even with high fsb. You can set s timer and it hibernates and when you come back you start where it left. Why would you not use hibernation?
> 
> 
> 
> nope it just stays on, i don't really need it to auto turn off it doesn't draw very much power at idle so i just leave it on all the time
Click to expand...

it's faster to resume from hibernation AND you get a few bucks.


----------



## ZombieWorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> fixed for you


I use CPUID HWMonitor.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> fixed for you
> 
> 
> 
> I use CPUID HWMonitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *that said i should use hwinfo, as there have been known issues with hwmonitor*
Click to expand...

fixed for you again







also the cool thing, is that hwinfo allows you to see the other EIGHT thermistors on the saberkitty, yet another reason to switch !


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> it's faster to resume from hibernation AND you get a few bucks.


your starting to sound like a bad and pushy salesman lol... not everyone wants to use hibernation... even if it works... I have a way to get mine to hibernate too... I just don't... don't want to... I prefer my PC to be off when I leave the room... not to turn off at some arbitrary time after I walk away... if I need to leave it doing something... I will set a timer then... but 99% of the time that's not the case. My wife uses sleep/hibernation on hers because she likes it... I use it on my laptop, keyed with the lid opening and shutting... but on my desktop.. I just hit the good old power button


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> your starting to sound like a bad and pushy salesman lol... not everyone wants to use hibernation... even if it works... I have a way to get mine to hibernate too... I just don't... don't want to... I prefer my PC to be off when I leave the room... not to turn off at some arbitrary time after I walk away... if I need to leave it doing something... I will set a timer then... but 99% of the time that's not the case. My wife uses sleep/hibernation on hers because she likes it... I use it on my laptop, keyed with the lid opening and shutting... but on my desktop.. I just hit the good old power button


Well, I didn't know that you have also a fix? Care to elaborate? About the salesman thing: Everbody needs to ring the bells. It's interesting however that you manually use the the power button.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Well, I didn't know that you have also a fix? Care to elaborate? About the salesman thing: Everbody needs to ring the bells. It's interesting however that I can you manually use the the power button.


The fix... well.. wasn't much to it really... just played around with some odd settings in the power management and the registry, can't remember what ones exactly... been over a year now since I did it... but I don't have a fix for everyone like yours... About the salesman thing, I'm mostly talking about how if someone doesn't want to use your fix, you keep pushing them into it, that's all.. As for the power button, that's in the power management settings too, you can pick what it does... for me I have it doing a shutdown (just my preference).... but I can set it for sleep, hibernate or nothing at all.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> The fix... well.. wasn't much to it really... just played around with some odd settings in the power management and the registry, can't remember what ones exactly... been over a year now since I did it... but I don't have a fix for everyone like yours... About the salesman thing, I'm mostly talking about how if someone doesn't want to use your fix, you keep pushing them into it, that's all.. As for the power button, that's in the power management settings too, you can pick what it does... for me I have it doing a shutdown (just my preference).... but I can set it for sleep, hibernate or nothing at all.


I don't know about your fix but I think you understand that my fix is bigger and I think I'm not pushing anything or anybody. If this is pushing than I'm sorry, but you aren't right because my tools can help with hibernation. It's clearly an advantage. Hibernation saves energy and is faster.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> your starting to sound like a bad and pushy salesman lol... not everyone wants to use hibernation... even if it works... I have a way to get mine to hibernate too... I just don't... don't want to... I prefer my PC to be off when I leave the room... not to turn off at some arbitrary time after I walk away... if I need to leave it doing something... I will set a timer then... but 99% of the time that's not the case. My wife uses sleep/hibernation on hers because she likes it... I use it on my laptop, keyed with the lid opening and shutting... but on my desktop.. I just hit the good old power button


You need also a lot of experience and work. When others are playing I do my homework. I'm open to suggestions but I'm not a salesman at all and I find post like yours difficult. Note that this site also has nothing for me to offer because it's all about hardware. You can find cheap gpu-brackets for aio-watercooler but there isn't anything for software.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I don't know about your fix but I think you understand that my fix is bigger and I think I'm not pushing anything or anybody. If this is pushing than I'm sorry, but you aren't right because my tools can help with hibernation. It's clearly an advantage. Hibernation saves energy and is faster.


I have hibernation working... was something in the registry that didn't let it work proper... wish I could remember, but its been so long ago since I fixed it. the power options image was just to show about the power button actions... btw, mine instantly hibernates in case of power outage... that's my only use for it... in case the power fails, my ups sends a signal to the pc to hibernate... and upon power restoration the ups sends the signal to turn back on... I just don't use hibernation for anything else... I just prefer it that way... and there are others like me who just want to shut down, and still more out there who never want it to hibernate or shutdown, just stay on lol... I don't trust hibernate or sleep, because there are times malware will hijack hibernate and "wake up" a pc to do its bidding... I've had that happening on my laptop once or twice... for me its a trust issue I guess... so the only place hibernation has for me is in case of power failure to keep from losing data


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I don't know about your fix but I think you understand that my fix is bigger and I think I'm not pushing anything or anybody. If this is pushing than I'm sorry, but you aren't right because my tools can help with hibernation. It's clearly an advantage. Hibernation saves energy and is faster.
> 
> 
> 
> I have hibernation working... was something in the registry that didn't let it work proper... wish I could remember, but its been so long ago since I fixed it. the power options image was just to show about the power button actions... btw, mine instantly hibernates in case of power outage... that's my only use for it... in case the power fails, my ups sends a signal to the pc to hibernate... and upon power restoration the ups sends the signal to turn back on... I just don't use hibernation for anything else... I just prefer it that way... and there are others like me who just want to shut down, and still more out there who never want it to hibernate or shutdown, just stay on lol... I don't trust hibernate or sleep, because there are times malware will hijack hibernate and "wake up" a pc to do its bidding... I've had that happening on my laptop once or twice... for me its a trust issue I guess... so the only place hibernation has for me is in case of power failure to keep from losing data
Click to expand...

Yes,ups is nice but I thing I said my tool is free for personal use. But if you have hibernation working is easy to pointing at others. I saw a lot of threads about it and I put a lot of work in it. Maybe I sound like a salesman but I'm not.

So, maybe you can post the fix? I think the others wants a proof and/or need it?


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> So, maybe you can post the fix? I think the others wants a proof and/or need it?


you want proof because you want me to use your tool... others may need my fix, but then, you already have one so mine isn't needed... Honestly... I'd have to go back and re-create the problem with a fresh install of windows... and re-trace down the problem... I didn't document it... just like I didn't document how I re-wrote some software for a machine at work to be able to interface with a new monitor system... I didn't realize it was such a wide spread problem or maybe I would have bothered to take notes..

I did take a video of it hibernating... just to show it does... I use a 250 + fsb speed btw if it matters... and all comes back just fine... no clock speed changes no funny business... just perfect... here is a link.. http://youtu.be/hMlK89fg0pM It might take a bit to become live on youtube's site, but it will be there sooner or later... still uploading at the moment.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> So, maybe you can post the fix? I think the others wants a proof and/or need it?
> 
> 
> 
> you want proof because you want me to use your tool... others may need my fix, but then, you already have one so mine isn't needed... Honestly... I'd have to go back and re-create the problem with a fresh install of windows... and re-trace down the problem... I didn't document it... just like I didn't document how I re-wrote some software for a machine at work to be able to interface with a new monitor system... I didn't realize it was such a wide spread problem or maybe I would have bothered to take notes..
> 
> I did take a video of it hibernating... just to show it does... I use a 250 + fsb speed btw if it matters... and all comes back just fine... no clock speed changes no funny business... just perfect... here is a link.. http://youtu.be/hMlK89fg0pM It might take a bit to become live on youtube's site, but it will be there sooner or later... still uploading at the moment.
Click to expand...

Yes,nice. Maybe you run my tools? I need to see the taskmanager and all the tasks with E letter in the beginning? But it's not excuse to not show your reg-fix?


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Yes,nice. Maybe you run my tools? I need to see the taskmanager and all the tasks with E letter in the beginning? But it's not excuse to not show your reg-fix?


ok, maybe you weren't listening... I can't show my reg-fix because its been over a year since I did it and I don't remember what keys I changed... it was related to power profiles and wakeup devices I do remember that much... anyway, I'm uploading another video showing the taskmanager and once again it hibernating... you seem to take personal offense to someone not needing your tools, why? it's nothing against you, and I'm not competing with you... but I see so many times in this thread where you just don't accept no for an answer when someone says they don't need/want your tool.

http://youtu.be/ZqpPIKiOG6w Again, its still uploading, so it may be a few minutes before it's live.

edit: I forgot to type above that I did change OC profiles since my last video... I jumped down to 231 mhz bus with 4.6ghz cpu clocks... mostly because of heat related issues with a riping program I was just running before I posted this.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Yes,nice. Maybe you run my tools? I need to see the taskmanager and all the tasks with E letter in the beginning? But it's not excuse to not show your reg-fix?
> 
> 
> 
> ok, maybe you weren't listening... I can't show my reg-fix because its been over a year since I did it and I don't remember what keys I changed... it was related to power profiles and wakeup devices I do remember that much... anyway, I'm uploading another video showing the taskmanager and once again it hibernating... you seem to take personal offense to someone not needing your tools, why? it's nothing against you, and I'm not competing with you... but I see so many times in this thread where you just don't accept no for an answer when someone says they don't need/want your tool.
> 
> http://youtu.be/ZqpPIKiOG6w Again, its still uploading, so it may be a few minutes before it's live.
> 
> edit: I forgot to type above that I did change OC profiles since my last video... I jumped down to 231 mhz bus with 4.6ghz cpu clocks... mostly because of heat related issues with a riping program I was just running before I posted this.
Click to expand...

Where did I was off-topic? First off there was a lot of replies with the same problem? Then I come with my solution and then a lot has happened. You are the only person with hibernation but you cannot proof it or you forgot it? But thanks for your input







. Sometimes it's bad but you can make the most of it!?

Thanks, but I have 300mhz fsb. Anyway you can reduce the hiberfil.sys file size with the powercfg tool. Maybe with 300 mhz fsb and half the file size it's faster







.

I also wrote the fix is for the auto hibernation not the manual hibernation. My symptoms was that the screen was black but everything else on. Maybe you can try the auto function?


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I also wrote the fix is for the auto hibernation not the manual hibernation. My symptoms was that the screen was black but everything else on. Maybe you can try the auto function?


auto function works... I did say that when power goes out it hibernates when signaled from my ups, and the timer part works as well... but I'm not taking a video to prove that one, its just not worth the bother, mostly cause I can't be bothered to sit here and wait for it to hibernate while holding a video camera... and nothing else is likely to prove it to you... btw... I did actually test to see if the auto-hibernate function worked before I posted this... and it does.. perfectly

I'm off to bed now... and I have a long work day so I don't know when I'll be able to get back on... I'm sure someone on here has used your tools and is glad you told them about them, and I'm sorry, but even if I did remember what exactly it was I did, I wouldn't tell, sometimes my "fixes" are to complex for the general public to fully grasp and they might accidentally mess up there registry.. your tools would likely be simpler to use than trying to follow directions on how to edit their registry...


----------



## philhalo66

Just out of curiosity why does the daemon tools pro that came on the driver disk tell me its expired?


----------



## Mega Man

they want you to buy an upgrade ( means there is a newer version avail )


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they want you to buy an upgrade ( means there is a newer version avail )


wow that's lame why did ASUS even bother putting it on the driver CD?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Just out of curiosity why does the daemon tools pro that came on the driver disk tell me its expired?


It's daylight saving time.


----------



## Pudfark

I lost my memory....to my wife's computer..lol What should I replace it with? Have the 990 R2 board and AMD 8350 with mild overclock...cooled by an H110 Corsair. I'm wanting something in the 1866 to 2133 speed range in a 2x4gig arrangement. Very open to any suggestions...to include faster memory? All ideas/experience appreciated. Thanks oopsies...I'm on bios 1503 will update if necessary or advised.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> I lost my memory....to my wife's computer..lol What should I replace it with? Have the 990 R2 board and AMD 8350 with mild overclock...cooled by an H110 Corsair. I'm wanting something in the 1866 to 2133 speed range in a 2x4gig arrangement. Very open to any suggestions...to include faster memory? All ideas/experience appreciated. Thanks oopsies...I'm on bios 1503 will update if necessary or advised.


I have some cheap Team Group Vulcan Orange 11-13-13-35 @ 2400 mhz. I have tried to oc it to no avail. My Windows Index changed 0.1 points but I think it's good to oc the fsb. I have 300mhz fsb!!!


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, I just looked into the source code, I'm a bit scared. There isn't any source code for such a huge program in the repository at all? I may be wrong, but last time I saw a true scam also from Russians is from this site:http://www.coderbag.com/Programming-C/Disable-CPU-Core-Parking-Utility. Don't use this tool if you can. The first version of this tool seems to work a bit, but the latest version not. It will put your cores to the highest p-state possible and has IMO nothing to do with core-parking like Windows. I wonder how he get his good reputation? But it's just my opinion and I also think it's very difficult to build up a good reputation and sell a product. BTW. you get a working core-parking tool from Bitsum. It also works für Turion CPU!!


Here is a post in Bitsum forum about the coderbag core-park tool, basicaly coderbag core-park tool is a fake:https://bitsum.com/forum/index.php/topic,3721.0.html. IMO it makes all core runs 100% and that's why the people think it's working. Sadly the post isn't from a programer, it's a bit hard too understand.


----------



## Noviets

Just went from 1903 to 2301 bios version.
Lost all my OC profiles, but I can still remember the last one I used.

Would the big jump in versions give me a more stable OC? Might try and go for a higher one instead of just going back to my previous settings.

I noticed there were alot of "Improved system Stability" updates. Does anyone notice any difference on OC ability? Like being able to go higher for example?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Just went from 1903 to 2301 bios version.
> Lost all my OC profiles, but I can still remember the last one I used.
> 
> Would the big jump in versions give me a more stable OC? Might try and go for a higher one instead of just going back to my previous settings.
> 
> I noticed there were alot of "Improved system Stability" updates. Does anyone notice any difference on OC ability? Like being able to go higher for example?


They didn't fix the standby resume wake up problem.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Just went from 1903 to 2301 bios version.
> Lost all my OC profiles, but I can still remember the last one I used.
> 
> Would the big jump in versions give me a more stable OC? Might try and go for a higher one instead of just going back to my previous settings.
> 
> I noticed there were alot of "Improved system Stability" updates. Does anyone notice any difference on OC ability? Like being able to go higher for example?


I can't say for sure if it was because the update but i got 4.8GHz stable with 1.46V and before the update i couldn't go past 4.5 even with 1.5


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Just went from 1903 to 2301 bios version.
> Lost all my OC profiles, but I can still remember the last one I used.
> 
> Would the big jump in versions give me a more stable OC? Might try and go for a higher one instead of just going back to my previous settings.
> 
> I noticed there were alot of "Improved system Stability" updates. Does anyone notice any difference on OC ability? Like being able to go higher for example?
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say for sure if it was because the update but i got 4.8GHz stable with 1.46V and before the update i couldn't go past 4.5 even with 1.5
Click to expand...

My Fx-4170 is stable with [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] ram!


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Just went from 1903 to 2301 bios version.
> Lost all my OC profiles, but I can still remember the last one I used.
> 
> Would the big jump in versions give me a more stable OC? Might try and go for a higher one instead of just going back to my previous settings.
> 
> I noticed there were alot of "Improved system Stability" updates. Does anyone notice any difference on OC ability? Like being able to go higher for example?


The board came with 1903 and I upgraded to 2104, then recently changed to 2301. There has been some good significance from 2104 to 2301 in that I can hold a higher stable OC, 2MHz higher for now (Prime95). My CPU temp, though, has been higher than I would like, 64c! I need more cooling!

This has been my experience. I also lost my OC Profiles!

Mike


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> The board came with 1903 and I upgraded to 2104, then recently changed to 2301. There has been some good significance from 2104 to 2301 in that I can hold a higher stable OC, 2MHz higher for now (Prime95). My CPU temp, though, has been higher than I would like, 64c! I need more cooling!
> 
> This has been my experience. I also lost my OC Profiles!
> 
> Mike


That's 200MHz!


----------



## Noviets

Just got myself the 750D so my temps have dropped down a little bit as I was using a modified testbench prior, I keep having to put off getting my water cooling stuff, but I'm going to start buying it in stages.

I keep wanting to get the whole lot in one go, but spending 800 bucks on water cooling gear that wont give me as much performance as what I could acquire by spending that 800 on parts alone (like a 290x) is hard to click the button, but I'll get there.

Alot of my games are CPU bottle necked, after the BIOS update it went tback to stock 4ghz clock with 4.2ghz turbo, noticed a huge framerate drop. Haven't had the time to sit down and reclock it, but I'll be doing it tonight as I want to get alot more frames out of Elder Scrolls Online.


----------



## ZombieWorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Would the big jump in versions give me a more stable OC? Might try and go for a higher one instead of just going back to my previous settings.
> 
> I noticed there were alot of "Improved system Stability" updates. Does anyone notice any difference on OC ability? Like being able to go higher for example?


Two of the recent iterations said "stability improvements" so yes I would have thought it. One negative is my onboard sound seemed to have stopped working on the latest BIOS, I have informed Asus but yet to have a response (4+ weeks now).


----------



## cab2

I'm on BIOS version 1302, "Improved system Stability" just means they're fixing minor bugs.

Updating wipes out all your settings, not worth it to me. Don't they have a way to save your BIOS settings and restore them after the update?


----------



## ZombieWorm

I saved a couple of profiles and they were still there after my bios update..


----------



## carloyz250f

hi i just want to ask something..
when im on prime95 instead of giving me an error my pc freeze.

my rig is.
fx-8350
sabertooth 990fx r2.0
2x msi r9 270x
psu AEROCOOL STRIKE-X 800W 80+ SILVER MOD
cooler is EK-KIT H3O 240 HFX
my temp is low. but if i up the voltage i get less freeze and becom stable but im just thinking is this normal?


----------



## Mega Man

sounds to me like you need more vcore,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieWorm*
> 
> I saved a couple of profiles and they were still there after my bios update..


odd are you didnt update bios


----------



## simsim44

@ Carloyz250f

Just a thought; did you clock the speeds and not the voltages. if you up the multiplier or the frequency and not the voltages it would have similar symptoms.


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> @ Carloyz250f
> 
> Just a thought; did you clock the speeds and not the voltages. if you up the multiplier or the frequency and not the voltages it would have similar symptoms.


Thank you for the rply. Yes if my vcore is not high enough for my speed stead of prime giving me an error my computer freeze. Sory for my bad english.. So this is normal?


----------



## JourneymanMike

@ MegaMan

It seems to me that when I updated from 1302 to 2104 my saved profiles stayed. But when I went from 2104 to 2301 I lost everything!

I may be wrong, but that's the way I remember it. I remember thinking how lucky I was to have my old profiles!

Mike


----------



## BlockLike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> Thank you for the rply. Yes if my vcore is not high enough for my speed stead of prime giving me an error my computer freeze. Sory for my bad english.. So this is normal?


If your voltage is not high enough to keep your overclock stable, then yes, the entire system can freeze

What overclock settings are you running?


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlockLike*
> 
> If your voltage is not high enough to keep your overclock stable, then yes, the entire system can freeze
> 
> What overclock settings are you running?


Thank you sir. Im at 4.7ghz at 1.47v stable for 3hrs. Is this good?


----------



## BlockLike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> Thank you sir. Im at 4.7ghz at 1.47v stable for 3hrs. Is this good?


that's in the right area of voltage for 4.7ghz

there isn't an exact recommended voltage, it's just a case of whatever settings run stable for you and don't run too hot

everyone's settings are slightly different when it comes to voltage, as all 8350 chips aren't the same


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlockLike*
> 
> that's in the right area of voltage for 4.7ghz
> 
> there isn't an exact recommended voltage, it's just a case of whatever settings run stable for you and don't run too hot
> 
> everyone's settings are slightly different when it comes to voltage, as all 8350 chips aren't the same


Thank you so much sir..


----------



## BlockLike

You're welcome


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> @ MegaMan
> 
> It seems to me that when I updated from 1302 to 2104 my saved profiles stayed. But when I went from 2104 to 2301 I lost everything!
> 
> I may be wrong, but that's the way I remember it. I remember thinking how lucky I was to have my old profiles!
> 
> Mike


never has for me, the asus intel side you can save your settings to HDD/usb as can you with gigabyte ( amd )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlockLike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> Thank you for the rply. Yes if my vcore is not high enough for my speed stead of prime giving me an error my computer freeze. Sory for my bad english.. So this is normal?
> 
> 
> 
> If your voltage is not high enough to keep your overclock stable, then yes, the entire system can freeze
> 
> What overclock settings are you running?
Click to expand...

or if your system gets too hot it can freeze as well


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> never has for me, the asus intel side you can save your settings to HDD/usb as can you with gigabyte ( amd )
> or if your system gets too hot it can freeze as well


My max core temp only 60. And socket at 70 as well as vcore 75c.. Is that temp can make my pc freeze?


----------



## Mega Man

should not


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> should not


is my AEROCOOL STRIKE-X 800W 80+ SILVER MOD good enough for overclocking? or should i buy a platinum rated? im planing to buy the corsair ax860i..


----------



## Mega Man

1
80+rating should not play a part in your determination of psu

2
shop for quality power delivery ripple, and voltage regulation for example.

http://www.jonnyguru.com/ is your friend there are plenty of other good reviewers sites out there, you can always ask in the psu section as well i personally always ask @shilka


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1
> 80+rating should not play a part in your determination of psu
> 
> 2
> shop for quality power delivery ripple, and voltage regulation for example.
> 
> http://www.jonnyguru.com/ is your friend there are plenty of other good reviewers sites out there, you can always ask in the psu section as well i personally always ask @shilka


Thank you sir..


----------



## Pudfark

I recently upgraded my sabertooth R2 and Amd 8350 from 1600 memory to 2133 memory...and had a learning experience.
I was on the old 1503 bios and could not get the new memory to run at the correct speed. After a day or two messing around with it, I decided to upgrade the bios. I did, the memory worked at rated speed and timings and of course, I lost my overclock on the processor.

So, I started from scratch on the "new" overclock...and I'm running into serious heat issues. I now seem to hit a thermal barrier at around 4.6 ghz at 1.488 volts and I over temp rapidly at any higher voltage and multiplier. I'm wondering? Should I now try the FSB overclock method?

Suggestions, advice and help are most appreciated and my rig is in my sig.... Thank You All


----------



## Minotaurtoo

@ 1.488 volts heat builds fast if don't have some serious cooling... the H110 may not be up to the task... I have a custom loop with a 360mm x 120mm rad with 6 120mm fans setup as push pull and I can only go to about 1.55 vcore before "stress" testing gets too hot to finish testing properly... I just updated to 2301 bios, and it kept my OC profiles.. but I noticed that I could reduce voltage and hold stability on this bios so I had to retest mine... 4.8 is taking only 1.5v now.. but when testing it hits 60C core temps... I tried for 5 ghz... @ 1.6 vcore and couldn't complete testing as temps hit 70C quickly.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> I'm wondering? Should I now try the FSB overclock method?


The combo multiplier and fsb overclock will generally get you the highest overclock at a given voltage. But because of fsb holes, finding the right combo will take time as it varies with each individual system. Just because +1 fsb increase wont work, doesnt mean +10 wont.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> I recently upgraded my sabertooth R2 and Amd 8350 from 1600 memory to 2133 memory...and had a learning experience.
> I was on the old 1503 bios and could not get the new memory to run at the correct speed. After a day or two messing around with it, I decided to upgrade the bios. I did, the memory worked at rated speed and timings and of course, I lost my overclock on the processor.
> 
> So, I started from scratch on the "new" overclock...and I'm running into serious heat issues. I now seem to hit a thermal barrier at around 4.6 ghz at 1.488 volts and I over temp rapidly at any higher voltage and multiplier. I'm wondering? Should I now try the FSB overclock method?
> 
> Suggestions, advice and help are most appreciated and my rig is in my sig.... Thank You All


assuming all other things are the same there is no voltage gain multi vs fsb vs mix ocing, again that assumes you do not increase other values, it cas ( fsb ) easily generate more heat when you oc other parts, also if you did not need that much voltage prior, you can try bumping CPU /nb to 1.2-1.3 v,


----------



## vartok

Been a while since i been on here... just got rid of my pld 740 x3 proc for a fx-8350. Im using my old scythe mugen 2 cooler and have been runing prime for a good 6 hours to make sure the temps are ok on this...so far its looks like 52c on the proc, but i cant for the life of me remember what the thermal max is on the VRMs... i got vrm1 @ 58c and vrm2 @50c


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> Been a while since i been on here... just got rid of my pld 740 x3 proc for a fx-8350. Im using my old scythe mugen 2 cooler and have been runing prime for a good 6 hours to make sure the temps are ok on this...so far its looks like 52c on the proc, but i cant for the life of me remember what the thermal max is on the VRMs... i got vrm1 @ 58c and vrm2 @50c


your fine, somewhere in the 90s but if you will do heavy ocing it is recommended to put a fan on the vrm heat sinks


----------



## vartok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> your fine, somewhere in the 90s but if you will do heavy ocing it is recommended to put a fan on the vrm heat sinks


thats not out of the question... i have one of those spot cool fans pulling air up across them (the reason for the big temp difference


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> your fine, somewhere in the 90s but if you will do heavy ocing it is recommended to put a fan on the vrm heat sinks


I'm surprised the thermal cutoff is so low aren't most MOSFET's rated for over 120C?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> your fine, somewhere in the 90s but if you will do heavy ocing it is recommended to put a fan on the vrm heat sinks
> 
> 
> 
> I'm surprised the thermal cutoff is so low aren't most MOSFET's rated for over 120C?
Click to expand...

hey i would be wrong, idr i never have to worry about it even @ 1.8 my vrms on any of my machines never get to 80


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> I'm surprised the thermal cutoff is so low aren't most MOSFET's rated for over 120C?


Well, they better be.







Look at the pictures of the temps measured in the first post here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1480427/high-temp-on-m5a99fx-pro-warning/0_20#post_22083367

With my fan on the back and on the vrms, I get 68C less temps on those small chips on the back than he does.


----------



## Pudfark

Thanx All, your advice has given me a lot more to think about.
This is where I am at the moment...

CPU AMD 8350 4.515 ghz @ 1.440 v and 55C using IBT to stress it and it's stable?

Memory is G.Skill F3-17000CL11-4GBXL totaling 8gig. They are supposed to run at 2133mhz @ 1.6 v I could never get them stable under
any stress test at that speed, to include 1.65 v. So, now they're stable? at 1866mhz same timings and 1.62 v

All of the above using the 2301 bios. Prior to this bios upgrade, I was using the 1503 version and my Corsair h110 CLC could handle 1.49 v on
the CPU and now, it can't, not even close to it? Should I roll back to another previous bios version?

I should say that I'm running IBT on "standard", if I try any higher than that...I over temp in 2-3 minutes and fail the test.
I was able to play Insurgency for two hours last night without issues.

Pretty much everything in my bios is set auto/default other than Cpu and DDR3 voltage. The standard 2200mhz and 2600mhz on HT link as well
Bus speed at 200.63mhz.

I didn't have any problems with my rig until I swapped my 1600 DDR3 for the 2133 DDR3 and then updated the bios to 2301.
I'd really like to get to 4.8ghz and 2133mhz and be stable...if, it's possible?

Again, Thanks Everybody....


----------



## Cobra26

Hi all,

Maybe one of you guys can help me out here are my specs: (its a new build btw)

Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 MB (latest bios)
AMD FX-9590 CPU
Corsair TX850 PSU
XFX R7 250 Core Edition Passive GPU
Kingston KHX 1600C9D3K4/8GX 1.65V (4 x 2 GB) RAM
Samsung 840 EVO 120GB SSD
Intel 40GB SSD

The cpu, vrm, nb are all custom watercooled with an XSPC RX480 rad. Idle my cpu = 25c to 28c at full load p95 its 52c my vrm idles at around 24c to 28c at p95 its 53c nb stays pretty much at 33c to 35c. So cooling should be good enough.

Problem: turn on the pc it boots to windows 7 desktop after 2 to 3 sec then it reboots and after that there are no issues....the same happened with ubuntu 12.04 LTS i boots into ubuntu desktop and then it reboots.

Ive run memtest for 7 hours no errors.
Upon booting there where no error leds nor error beeps ive tried to use D.O.C.P. for the correct timings on my ram that didnt helped or should i manualy change the ram setting since im using the default setting. But im starting to think its not my ram....

Are there guys who had similar experiences or know how to help me out?

Thanks in advance help is much appreciated


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> Thanx All, your advice has given me a lot more to think about.
> This is where I am at the moment...
> 
> CPU AMD 8350 4.515 ghz @ 1.440 v and 55C using IBT to stress it and it's stable?
> 
> Memory is G.Skill F3-17000CL11-4GBXL totaling 8gig. They are supposed to run at 2133mhz @ 1.6 v I could never get them stable under
> any stress test at that speed, to include 1.65 v. So, now they're stable? at 1866mhz same timings and 1.62 v
> 
> All of the above using the 2301 bios. Prior to this bios upgrade, I was using the 1503 version and my Corsair h110 CLC could handle 1.49 v on
> the CPU and now, it can't, not even close to it? Should I roll back to another previous bios version?
> 
> I should say that I'm running IBT on "standard", if I try any higher than that...I over temp in 2-3 minutes and fail the test.
> I was able to play Insurgency for two hours last night without issues.
> 
> Pretty much everything in my bios is set auto/default other than Cpu and DDR3 voltage. The standard 2200mhz and 2600mhz on HT link as well
> Bus speed at 200.63mhz.
> 
> I didn't have any problems with my rig until I swapped my 1600 DDR3 for the 2133 DDR3 and then updated the bios to 2301.
> I'd really like to get to 4.8ghz and 2133mhz and be stable...if, it's possible?
> 
> Again, Thanks Everybody....


check your cpu/nb volts, it can default to 1.4v, you should be able to get that stable with 1.1-1.3v easily on that speed ( cpu/nb ) i would reccomend starting at 1.2c high llc ( again CPU/NB NOT CPU !!! )

you also may have to set proper timings ( first 3 to 4 ) for that ram at lits speed
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra26*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Maybe one of you guys can help me out here are my specs: (its a new build btw)
> 
> Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 MB (latest bios)
> AMD FX-9590 CPU
> Corsair TX850 PSU
> XFX R7 250 Core Edition Passive GPU
> Kingston KHX 1600C9D3K4/8GX 1.65V (4 x 2 GB) RAM
> Samsung 840 EVO 120GB SSD
> Intel 40GB SSD
> 
> The cpu, vrm, nb are all custom watercooled with an XSPC RX480 rad. Idle my cpu = 25c to 28c at full load p95 its 52c my vrm idles at around 24c to 28c at p95 its 53c nb stays pretty much at 33c to 35c. So cooling should be good enough.
> 
> Problem: turn on the pc it boots to windows 7 desktop after 2 to 3 sec then it reboots and after that there are no issues....the same happened with ubuntu 12.04 LTS i boots into ubuntu desktop and then it reboots.
> 
> Ive run memtest for 7 hours no errors.
> Upon booting there where no error leds nor error beeps ive tried to use D.O.C.P. for the correct timings on my ram that didnt helped or should i manualy change the ram setting since im using the default setting. But im starting to think its not my ram....
> 
> Are there guys who had similar experiences or know how to help me out?
> 
> Thanks in advance help is much appreciated


that is just weird ... no idea ? does it do it at stock ?


----------



## Cobra26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> check your cpu/nb volts, it can default to 1.4v, you should be able to get that stable with 1.1-1.3v easily on that speed ( cpu/nb ) i would reccomend starting at 1.2c high llc ( again CPU/NB NOT CPU !!! )
> 
> you also may have to set proper timings ( first 3 to 4 ) for that ram at lits speed
> that is just weird ... no idea ? does it do it at stock ?


Yeah weird for sure and above all tiredsome spent to much time on a pc without even enjoying it assembling all the watercooling which is time consuming and then after just 1 day this happens.
And yeah everything is stock speed i have no idea what to do...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra26*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> check your cpu/nb volts, it can default to 1.4v, you should be able to get that stable with 1.1-1.3v easily on that speed ( cpu/nb ) i would reccomend starting at 1.2c high llc ( again CPU/NB NOT CPU !!! )
> 
> you also may have to set proper timings ( first 3 to 4 ) for that ram at lits speed
> that is just weird ... no idea ? does it do it at stock ?
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah weird for sure and above all tiredsome spent to much time on a pc without even enjoying it assembling all the watercooling which is time consuming and then after just 1 day this happens.
> And yeah everything is stock speed i have no idea what to do...
Click to expand...

is windows up to date/ fresh new install ?


----------



## Cobra26

@Megaman

Yes its a fresh windows 7 install i also installed Linux Ubuntu 12.04 LTS on a seperate ssd and the problem persists so dunno if its OS related...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra26*
> 
> @Megaman
> 
> Yes its a fresh windows 7 install i also installed Linux Ubuntu 12.04 LTS on a seperate ssd and the problem persists so dunno if its OS related...


is win fully updated ? are drivers up to date ?


----------



## Cobra26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> is win fully updated ? are drivers up to date ?


I only installed windows 7 just to use prime95 and HWIinfo64 to stress test the system and tempratures after that i had no real use for windows 7 and no i did not update, I then proceeded to install Linux ubuntu 12.04 LTS on a seperate ssd but GRUB allows me to chose whether i want to boot into w7 or linux thing is the problem also accurs with linux upon entering my desktop it simply reboots exactly the same as with w7 desktop entering. Things i have done so far i removed the w7 ssd and reinstall ubuntu 12.04 lts on my main ssd result problems persists. Ive done 7 hours of memtest with no errors also no led errors or sound errors upon booting.

Next i might as well do a CMOS reset which i did with no result.

Some say change the ram settings from default to its proper timings which i did with D.O.C.P. although i wonder if its not better to manualy set the correct timings as of now it runs at 1333mhz instead of its native speed of 1600mhz, others told me to up the vcore a bit....but this cpu already has a 1.5v the reason i went with watercooling the vrm is the impact the fx-9590 has on the vrm and its already factory overclocked so no more fiddling with the bios settings.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra26*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> is win fully updated ? are drivers up to date ?
> 
> 
> 
> I only installed windows 7 just to use prime95 and HWIinfo64 to stress test the system and tempratures after that i had no real use for windows 7 and no i did not update, I then proceeded to install Linux ubuntu 12.04 LTS on a seperate ssd but GRUB allows me to chose whether i want to boot into w7 or linux thing is the problem also accurs with linux upon entering my desktop it simply reboots exactly the same as with w7 desktop entering. Things i have done so far i removed the w7 ssd and reinstall ubuntu 12.04 lts on my main ssd result problems persists. Ive done 7 hours of memtest with no errors also no led errors or sound errors upon booting.
> 
> Next i might as well do a CMOS reset which i did with no result.
> 
> Some say change the ram settings from default to its proper timings which i did with D.O.C.P. although i wonder if its not better to manualy set the correct timings as of now it runs at 1333mhz instead of its native speed of 1600mhz, others told me to up the vcore a bit....but this cpu already has a 1.5v the reason i went with watercooling the vrm is the impact the fx-9590 has on the vrm and its already factory overclocked so no more fiddling with the bios settings.
Click to expand...

only other thing i can think of is ssd firmware.

i have heard of a ssd that had similar issues ( but not the same. ) that is really strange, the fact that it happens on linux too indicates its hardware, so yea that is the only thing i can think of besides a bios reflash. but my gut says it isnt bios sorry i cant be of more help


----------



## diggiddi

I decided to post this here as well since I am comparing two mainboards The question is how does the on board sound for this mobo compare to my Turtle Beach Montego soundcard? and also to the onboard sound of the CHV?
Reason is one of the 2 will be my next board and I might have to lose my soundcard due to crossfire

Link to sound card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829118006


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> The question is how does the on board sound for this mobo compare to my Turtle Beach Montego soundcard?


The Sabertooth uses the Realtek ALC892 sound chip which is the same on my board. For onboard sound, its pretty darn good, but not as good as was on my Abit NF7-S. It had Soundstorm audio which decoded Dolby Digital on the fly like your Turtle Beach Montego.

All audio can be subjective and my ears arent as good as they once were, but I feel youll still like your Turtle Beach Montego better. As far as using a bit more cpu resourses, who cares any more, heh.


----------



## diggiddi

Thanks for reply +rep


----------



## cpmee

I just noticed something on newegg about it :

"Operating Systems Supported
Windows 2000 Professional, Windows XP, (NOT compatible with Windows Vista)."

So it works fine for you in windows 7?


----------



## diggiddi

I had to download drivers from Turtle Beach


----------



## mus1mus

Hi guys.

Will be picking my R2 today. Wanna ask what is the recommended BIOS ATM?

Too, OC'ing tips would get me into the right foot on this journey.









Thanks

EDIT: came from giga btw.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> Will be picking my R2 today. Wanna ask what is the recommended BIOS ATM?
> 
> Too, OC'ing tips would get me into the right foot on this journey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> EDIT: came from giga btw.


I personally recommend the newest BIOS 2301. For OC tips. set the CPU-NB to 2600 MHz. You should also not overclock only using the multiplier try using the bus speed setting the overclock mode to manual.
This is purely personal preference but i like to use manual voltages and leave the LLC to Auto but i suppose its not required.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> Will be picking my R2 today. Wanna ask what is the recommended BIOS ATM?
> 
> Too, OC'ing tips would get me into the right foot on this journey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> EDIT: came from giga btw.
> 
> 
> 
> I personally recommend the newest BIOS 2301. For OC tips. set the CPU-NB to 2600 MHz. You should also not overclock only using the multiplier try using the bus speed setting the overclock mode to manual.
> This is purely personal preference but i like to use manual voltages and leave the LLC to Auto but i suppose its not required.
Click to expand...

1 llc to auto is never good.
2 fsb vs multi you DO NOT use lower volts
3 mus1mus has had a giga +83xx for a while


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 llc to auto is never good.
> 2 fsb vs multi you DO NOT use lower volts
> 3 mus1mus has had a giga +83xx for a while


Why not leave LLC to auto?, mine works fine and it doesn't jack it up to insane voltages.
i never said it does so...
Okay no idea why you told me this but thanks i guess.


----------



## Mega Man

you can control it just fine as the saberkitty has the best voltage control there is

high or ultra is all that is needed


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you can control it just fine as the saberkitty has the best voltage control there is
> 
> high or ultra is all that is needed


Yeah that makes sense to me


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> I personally recommend the newest BIOS 2301


_2301 it is then_. Thanks















Quote:


> For OC tips. set the CPU-NB to 2600 MHz. You should also not overclock only using the multiplier try using the bus speed setting the overclock mode to manual.
> This is purely personal preference but i like to use manual voltages and leave the LLC to Auto but i suppose its not required.


_I found the combo of multi and FSB to produce better results in my experience. So yeah._
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*


Quote:


> 1 llc to auto is never good.


_I was literally thinking this experience to be a quantum leap from giga in terms of these LLC settings and features_








Quote:


> 2 fsb vs multi you DO NOT use lower volts


_Yes, something like that_








Quote:


> 3 mus1mus has had a giga +83xx for a while


Yep.. But I'm not good with overclocking on that board.
My first time to OC honestly.

By the way,




This is really surprising and refreshing!!!

People keep telling ths is an ugly motherboard. Opened the box, and it ain't TBH.

Pictures could lie IMO. This is freaking awesome looking board!!!


----------



## BlockLike

in case you're not aware, remember to remove the clear plastic film on the southbridge heatsink

I missed that when I originally installed mine and if anything it will run warmer if not removed


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> I personally recommend the newest BIOS 2301. For OC tips. set the CPU-NB to 2600 MHz. You should also not overclock only using the multiplier try using the bus speed setting the overclock mode to manual.
> This is purely personal preference but i like to use manual voltages and leave the LLC to Auto but i suppose its not required.


The only real time that you need to use FSB to be honest is if you want to overclock RAM with a little more control.. TBH everything else In my system clocked just fine without it.. Only issue I found was that the higher RAM dividers where less stable.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlockLike*
> 
> in case you're not aware, remember to remove the clear plastic film on the southbridge heatsink
> 
> I missed that when I originally installed mine and if anything it will run warmer if not removed


agreed

to mus1mus digi takes some time but it is worth it, the volts i have pushed through this board ( i was one of the first to max them back when they capped @ 1.7 )


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> The only real time that you need to use FSB to be honest is if you want to overclock RAM with a little more control.. TBH everything else In my system clocked just fine without it.. Only issue I found was that the higher RAM dividers where less stable.


Well my chip seems to love combination OC the way that it will not stabilize on pure multi on my UD3.
One example is that I can't get to stabilize 4.7 with 1.500 but can stabilize 4.75 at 1.488.









So will take some time to learn the trick on the saberkitty I should say.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> agreed
> 
> to mus1mus digi takes some time but it is worth it, the volts i have pushed through this board ( i was one of the first to max them back when they capped @ 1.7 )


It was indeed.

_By far my observation is that *LLC at High* lowers my Vcore from 1.475 at the Bios to 1.452 at load_. While Ultra tend to add some overshoot on the values. 1.475 normalize at 1.488 with a high of 1.500.

But surprisingly, the system runs cooler than my previous ud3 at higher voltages.









One quick question though, I have observed in HWInfo that
CPU Package Temp seems like the Core temp.
Vcore-1 is the VRM??
CPU seems to be the Socket.

Correct me if I am wrong guys. I haven't really installed a clean windows last night as well as Asus bundled software.

Gotta do a clean install later.

Thanks guys
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlockLike*
> 
> in case you're not aware, remember to remove the clear plastic film on the southbridge heatsink
> 
> I missed that when I originally installed mine and if anything it will run warmer if not removed


Yes removed that as per your advice.









And by the way, how hot should I consider this Vcore-1 to be safe? running them at 62 Max at 1.500 last night.. is that too hot??


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Well my chip seems to love combination OC the way that it will not stabilize on pure multi on my UD3.
> One example is that I can't get to stabilize 4.7 with 1.500 but can stabilize 4.75 at 1.488.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So will take some time to learn the trick on the saberkitty I should say.
> It was indeed.
> 
> _By far my observation is that *LLC at High* lowers my Vcore from 1.475 at the Bios to 1.452 at load_. While Ultra tend to add some overshoot on the values. 1.475 normalize at 1.488 with a high of 1.500.
> 
> But surprisingly, the system runs cooler than my previous ud3 at higher voltages.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One quick question though, I have observed in HWInfo that
> CPU Package Temp seems like the Core temp.
> Vcore-1 is the VRM??
> CPU seems to be the Socket.
> 
> Correct me if I am wrong guys. I haven't really installed a clean windows last night as well as Asus bundled software.
> 
> Gotta do a clean install later.
> 
> Thanks guys
> Yes removed that as per your advice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And by the way, how hot should I consider this Vcore-1 to be safe? running them at 62 Max at 1.500 last night.. is that too hot??


Yeah so DIGI options are your friend when it comes to stablizing OC's on the saberkitty.. I was amazed at how far I could go from even simply upgrading from a GD65.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Yeah so DIGI options are your friend when it comes to stablizing OC's on the saberkitty.. I was amazed at how far I could go from even simply upgrading from a GD65.


I don't really think I could go higher though. As I am on air and 1.500 seems to be to much of a workout for my silver arrow already to keep my chip under 70.. 4.8 stable and I'm cool..


----------



## BlockLike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> And by the way, how hot should I consider this Vcore-1 to be safe? running them at 62 Max at 1.500 last night.. is that too hot??


62C on v-core is fine


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> The only real time that you need to use FSB to be honest is if you want to overclock RAM with a little more control.. TBH everything else In my system clocked just fine without it.. Only issue I found was that the higher RAM dividers where less stable.
> 
> 
> 
> Well my chip seems to love combination OC the way that it will not stabilize on pure multi on my UD3.
> One example is that I can't get to stabilize 4.7 with 1.500 but can stabilize 4.75 at 1.488.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So will take some time to learn the trick on the saberkitty I should say.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> agreed
> 
> to mus1mus digi takes some time but it is worth it, the volts i have pushed through this board ( i was one of the first to max them back when they capped @ 1.7 )
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It was indeed.
> 
> _By far my observation is that *LLC at High* lowers my Vcore from 1.475 at the Bios to 1.452 at load_. While Ultra tend to add some overshoot on the values. 1.475 normalize at 1.488 with a high of 1.500.
> 
> But surprisingly, the system runs cooler than my previous ud3 at higher voltages.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One quick question though, I have observed in HWInfo that
> CPU Package Temp seems like the Core temp.
> Vcore-1 is the VRM??
> CPU seems to be the Socket.
> 
> Correct me if I am wrong guys. I haven't really installed a clean windows last night as well as Asus bundled software.
> 
> Gotta do a clean install later.
> 
> Thanks guys
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BlockLike*
> 
> in case you're not aware, remember to remove the clear plastic film on the southbridge heatsink
> 
> I missed that when I originally installed mine and if anything it will run warmer if not removed
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes removed that as per your advice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And by the way, how hot should I consider this Vcore-1 to be safe? running them at 62 Max at 1.500 last night.. is that too hot??
Click to expand...

vcore1 is on the upper part of the vrm1 iirc and vrm2 closer to the bottom, but i could be wrong


----------



## Cobra26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> only other thing i can think of is ssd firmware.
> 
> i have heard of a ssd that had similar issues ( but not the same. ) that is really strange, the fact that it happens on linux too indicates its hardware, so yea that is the only thing i can think of besides a bios reflash. but my gut says it isnt bios sorry i cant be of more help


I think i solved the issue, so maybe people in the future can see this IF they have the same problem like i did.

ie: Sabertooth 990fx r2.0 boots twice when i enter w7 desktop or ubuntu desktop after the second boot i can use my pc without issue...not sure about that one anyway:

What i have done....more then just only testing ram with memtest for 7 hours, CMOS reset, newest bios flash, prime95, running the ram at 1600mhz instead of 1333mhz, 2 ram modules instead of 4...

I swapped my graphics card with one that i know is working 100% i booted up so far so good till i got in ubuntu desktop (no doubt this would happen also with w7 desktop) and it rebooted, very dissapointing experience...so i had only one option left since prime95 and memtest went well. So i changed my psu from a TX850 version 1 to a HX650 watt psu i was little worried because of the 650 watt since the FX-9590 is rated at 220watt but i guessed it was only for booting up and not stress testing.

I detached all the psu cables to my MB (tripple check) and hooked up my HX650 psu outside the case tripple checked everything was connected. Fingers crossed and i started the pc up....went to ubuntu desktop i expected a reboot which to my surprise did not came i waited and waited guess im lucky i then did a hard reset and booted ONCE no reboot. I then turned of the pc and psu, removed the psu cable from the wall and hooked up everything back up again booted again and no double boot!!! So i gues i either had a faulty psu OR a psu that was not compatible with my MB and cpu.

All whats left is i need to buy a new 850 psu my choice would be a Corsair RM850 watt.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra26*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> only other thing i can think of is ssd firmware.
> 
> i have heard of a ssd that had similar issues ( but not the same. ) that is really strange, the fact that it happens on linux too indicates its hardware, so yea that is the only thing i can think of besides a bios reflash. but my gut says it isnt bios sorry i cant be of more help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think i solved the issue, so maybe people in the future can see this IF they have the same problem like i did.
> 
> ie: Sabertooth 990fx r2.0 boots twice when i enter w7 desktop or ubuntu desktop after the second boot i can use my pc without issue...not sure about that one anyway:
> 
> What i have done....more then just only testing ram with memtest for 7 hours, CMOS reset, newest bios flash, prime95, running the ram at 1600mhz instead of 1333mhz, 2 ram modules instead of 4...
> 
> I swapped my graphics card with one that i know is working 100% i booted up so far so good till i got in ubuntu desktop (no doubt this would happen also with w7 desktop) and it rebooted, very dissapointing experience...so i had only one option left since prime95 and memtest went well. So i changed my psu from a TX850 version 1 to a HX650 watt psu i was little worried because of the 650 watt since the FX-9590 is rated at 220watt but i guessed it was only for booting up and not stress testing.
> 
> I detached all the psu cables to my MB (tripple check) and hooked up my HX650 psu outside the case tripple checked everything was connected. Fingers crossed and i started the pc up....went to ubuntu desktop i expected a reboot which to my surprise did not came i waited and waited guess im lucky i then did a hard reset and booted ONCE no reboot. I then turned of the pc and psu, removed the psu cable from the wall and hooked up everything back up again booted again and no double boot!!! So i gues i either had a faulty psu OR a psu that was not compatible with my MB and cpu.
> 
> All whats left is i need to buy a new 850 psu my choice would be a Corsair RM850 watt.
Click to expand...

nice good to hear you got it fixed, imo save some cash and grab another quality psu, corsair, great cust service, poor pricing


----------



## carloyz250f

Hi guyz. How do u guyz mount a ram cooler on your mosfet? Can someone provide a closer picture and instructions. Thank you so much. I love this community. And what ram cooler do u recomend? I will travel with my pc philippnes to canada i need a sturdy fit..


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> Hi guyz. How do u guyz mount a ram cooler on your mosfet? Can someone provide a closer picture and instructions. Thank you so much. I love this community. And what ram cooler do u recomend? I will travel with my pc philippnes to canada i need a sturdy fit..


you don't need one the sabertooth comes with a very good MOSFET cooler.


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> you don't need one the sabertooth comes with a very good MOSFET cooler.


i have a fan directed in the vrm/mosfet heatsink and at 4.7ghz am already hitting 75c on vcore1 temp i want to change my fan to a ram cooler bot i dont know how to mount a ram cooler on to the vrm heatsink... thank you so much for the rply. sorry for my bad english


----------



## reapersakiller

I had a Asus Sabretooth am3+ ran good with a fx8350 and evga gtx660 to ran bf3 good. But sold it.

Ps I sold it cus it was when newegg just got them and mine would not overclock.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> i have a fan directed in the vrm/mosfet heatsink and at 4.7ghz am already hitting 75c on vcore1 temp i want to change my fan to a ram cooler bot i dont know how to mount a ram cooler on to the vrm heatsink... thank you so much for the rply. sorry for my bad english


I say your safe at that temp if that is a temp for 100% load during stress testing.... I was told on here by a few people that 100C is the "upper limit" for your vcore but can't really verify that, I wouldn't want my temps for vcore1 to go over 80C personally, I've read some threads where people were seeing 85C on thiers... The thing that will help best to maintain good vcore temps is good case ventilation and a nice fan blowing over the vcore and socket area of the board.

this is one thread I read about 100C temp limit in...
http://www.overclock.net/t/1313545/sabertooth-990-fx-vcore-1


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I say your safe at that temp.... I was told on here by a few people that 100C is the "upper limit" for your vcore but can't really verify that


so it is safe to take off the fan on my vrm/mosfet area? i dont know what temp i will get with out the fan and i dont like the looks on that fan that's why i want to change it to a ram cooler instead. sory for my bad english..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> Hi guyz. How do u guyz mount a ram cooler on your mosfet? Can someone provide a closer picture and instructions. Thank you so much. I love this community. And what ram cooler do u recomend? I will travel with my pc philippnes to canada i need a sturdy fit..


personally i jut recommend using a 60mm ( or so, i used a 120mm ) fan you can put a screw through the slots on the heatsink, use double sided tape to adhere it, or me i use zip ties
you will want a high static pressure fan fyi
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> Hi guyz. How do u guyz mount a ram cooler on your mosfet? Can someone provide a closer picture and instructions. Thank you so much. I love this community. And what ram cooler do u recomend? I will travel with my pc philippnes to canada i need a sturdy fit..
> 
> 
> 
> you don't need one the sabertooth comes with a very good MOSFET cooler.
Click to expand...

although it does have good vrms i always recommend a fan esp at 4.6+ghz with enough of an oc any chip, intel or amd needs actively cooled vrms


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> personally i jut recommend using a 60mm ( or so, i used a 120mm ) fan you can put a screw through the slots on the heatsink, use double sided tape to adhere it, or me i use zip ties
> you will want a high static pressure fan fyi
> although it does have good vrms i always recommend a fan esp at 4.6+ghz with enough of an oc any chip, intel or amd needs actively cooled vrms


thank you mega man..


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> personally i jut recommend using a 60mm ( or so, i used a 120mm ) fan you can put a screw through the slots on the heatsink, use double sided tape to adhere it, or me i use zip ties
> you will want a high static pressure fan fyi
> although it does have good vrms i always recommend a fan esp at 4.6+ghz with enough of an oc any chip, intel or amd needs actively cooled vrms


I don't have a fan and mine have never even gotten to 47C the hottest i ever seen them was Vcore 1 showing 46C when i was running prime95 but i do recommend a fan as well especially for the 8 core chips.


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> I don't have a fan and mine have never even gotten to 47C the hottest i ever seen them was Vcore 1 showing 46C when i was running prime95 but i do recommend a fan as well especially for the 8 core chips.


Whats your clock speed? And processor?


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> Whats your clock speed? And processor?


4.82GHz on an FX 6300 1.47V


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> personally i jut recommend using a 60mm ( or so, i used a 120mm ) fan you can put a screw through the slots on the heatsink, use double sided tape to adhere it, or me i use zip ties
> you will want a high static pressure fan fyi
> although it does have good vrms i always recommend a fan esp at 4.6+ghz with enough of an oc any chip, intel or amd needs actively cooled vrms
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a fan and mine have never even gotten to 47C the hottest i ever seen them was Vcore 1 showing 46C when i was running prime95 but i do recommend a fan as well especially for the 8 core chips.
Click to expand...

I don't have a fan either. The saberkid is really good build. There is even a backplate for the vrm cooler. My vrm temp is 60°c-70°c but I have 300 fsb @ 1.55v cpu! Btw vrm is rated 130°-140°c!!! Imo it's a pure bios thing when it's starts to throttle.


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> 4.82GHz on an FX 6300 1.47V


wow im only 4.7ghz at 1.47v also but my vcore1 already hitting 75c with fan but my processor is fx8350.. hmm....


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> wow im only 4.7ghz at 1.47v also but my vcore1 already hitting 75c with fan but my processor is fx8350.. hmm....


that's odd my friend has his 8350 at 5.1GHz with 1.58V and with a fan his tops out at 53C you may want to rethink your case's airflow


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> that's odd my friend has his 8350 at 5.1GHz with 1.58V and with a fan his tops out at 53C you may want to rethink your case's airflow


Yes i orderd a new case corsair air 540. By nxtweek i will get my new case. Sory for my bad english.. Hehe..


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> Yes i orderd a new case corsair air 540. By nxtweek i will get my new case. Sory for my bad english.. Hehe..


there ya go you will likely see a significant drop in temperatures.


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> there ya go you will likely see a significant drop in temperatures.


Yes thank you. Hopefully thay drop. And by the way im in the philippnes maybe thats why my computer is running hot..


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> personally i jut recommend using a 60mm ( or so, i used a 120mm ) fan you can put a screw through the slots on the heatsink, use double sided tape to adhere it, or me i use zip ties
> you will want a high static pressure fan fyi
> although it does have good vrms i always recommend a fan esp at 4.6+ghz with enough of an oc any chip, intel or amd needs actively cooled vrms


Do you have a pic of your rig with the fan mounting? I'd like to see that if you do.

Mike


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Do you have a pic of your rig with the fan mounting? I'd like to see that if you do.
> 
> Mike


I also would like to see please.


----------



## philhalo66

Out of curiosity would anyone know what thickness the mosfet thermal pad is?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Out of curiosity would anyone know what thickness the mosfet thermal pad is?


Goes around 1 - 2mm I think.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> Yes thank you. Hopefully thay drop. And by the way im in the philippnes maybe thats why my computer is running hot..


Yo.. Don't be too ashamed about your temps..
Even watercoolers in the country face the issue.

I have to open the main door of the house and place the computer at the doorstep to catch some good air to test my oc.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> uote:
> Originally Posted by philhalo66 View Post
> 
> Out of curiosity would anyone know what thickness the mosfet thermal pad is?
> 
> Goes around 1 - 2mm I think.


Actually you can get them in even thinner or thicker sizes. Ive used some thermal tape thats way thinner than notebook paper.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Actually you can get them in even thinner or thicker sizes. Ive used some thermal tape thats way thinner than notebook paper.


I was talking about the stock VRM cooler when i removed mine (cpu cooler required it) i kinds ripped it a bit and i ended up cutting a chunk out of an unused part to cover 1 Transistor and I'd rather get a new pad for safety sake.


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Goes around 1 - 2mm I think.
> Yo.. Don't be too ashamed about your temps..
> Even watercoolers in the country face the issue.
> 
> I have to open the main door of the house and place the computer at the doorstep to catch some good air to test my oc.


Yes thank you..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> personally i jut recommend using a 60mm ( or so, i used a 120mm ) fan you can put a screw through the slots on the heatsink, use double sided tape to adhere it, or me i use zip ties
> you will want a high static pressure fan fyi
> although it does have good vrms i always recommend a fan esp at 4.6+ghz with enough of an oc any chip, intel or amd needs actively cooled vrms
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a fan and mine have never even gotten to 47C the hottest i ever seen them was Vcore 1 showing 46C when i was running prime95 but i do recommend a fan as well especially for the 8 core chips.
Click to expand...

try actually pushing the chip
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> personally i jut recommend using a 60mm ( or so, i used a 120mm ) fan you can put a screw through the slots on the heatsink, use double sided tape to adhere it, or me i use zip ties
> you will want a high static pressure fan fyi
> although it does have good vrms i always recommend a fan esp at 4.6+ghz with enough of an oc any chip, intel or amd needs actively cooled vrms
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a pic of your rig with the fan mounting? I'd like to see that if you do.
> 
> Mike
Click to expand...

several

you can snug it in/wedge it in, set it on gpu, screw it in to the HS, double sided tape, anyway you can now i am much lazier, i just block them



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> uote:
> Originally Posted by philhalo66 View Post
> 
> Out of curiosity would anyone know what thickness the mosfet thermal pad is?
> 
> Goes around 1 - 2mm I think.
> 
> 
> 
> Actually you can get them in even thinner or thicker sizes. Ive used some thermal tape thats way thinner than notebook paper.
Click to expand...

he wanted to know the stock pad size


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I thought I was the only one that just ploped a 120mm fan in there like that... mine is more at the bottom of the vrm's aiming up since I have an exhaust fan just above my vrm's it works well that way... but seriously I don't need it unless I'm gaming for hours on end... then its the gpu in the case that's the problem... it generates a lot of heat and even with soo many exhaust fans on my rig ambients will reach 35C inside the case, normal is around 27-29C.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> *try actually pushing the chip*
> several
> 
> you can snug it in/wedge it in, set it on gpu, screw it in to the HS, double sided tape, anyway you can now i am much lazier, i just block them
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> he wanted to know the stock pad size


how is running pime95 not pushing the chip?


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> I thought I was the only one that just ploped a 120mm fan in there like that...


My 70mm fan is mounted somewhat like that, except I drilled 4 5/32" holes in the back of the case and used thin electrical ties to secure the fan. Then another couple of ties to angle the fan a bit. Its a very secure three point mount, heh.

When drilling the case without removing the mobo, I make a cage out of tape to catch any and all drill filings.


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> My 70mm fan is mounted somewhat like that, except I drilled 4 5/32" holes in the back of the case and used thin electrical ties to secure the fan. Then another couple of ties to angle the fan a bit. Its a very secure three point mount, heh.
> 
> When drilling the case without removing the mobo, I make a cage out of tape to catch any and all drill filings.


If i put a fan on the back can i take off the front fan? I just dont like the looks. Hehehe.


----------



## vartok

not sure if i should post this here or over in a thread about my proc... but ive been testing my new fx-8350.... and ive noticed it will randomly down clock for about 10 seconds every so often (have a OSD for temps and such) and it looks like the mulitplier is dropping... temps arnt too high... any thoughts?


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> not sure if i should post this here or over in a thread about my proc... but ive been testing my new fx-8350.... and ive noticed it will randomly down clock for about 10 seconds every so often (have a OSD for temps and such) and it looks like the mulitplier is dropping... temps arnt too high... any thoughts?


Have u tryd Turn off cool n quite?


----------



## vartok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> Have u tryd Turn off cool n quite?


not yet... didnt figure i needed to... still on stock speeds for now


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> not yet... didnt figure i needed to... still on stock speeds for now


U have to turn off all the power saving feature so that the processor will not downclock it self to save power when not needed.. Sory for my bad english..


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> If i put a fan on the back can i take off the front fan? I just dont like the looks. Hehehe.


Definite answer?, no. The VRM heatsink up front will have the biggest effect on dropping VRM temps. Factly because of the heatsink. The backside only has a plate which will gain you less temp drop than the one up front.

But by sloping both sides with proper fans, temp drop would be massive.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Actually you can get them in even thinner or thicker sizes. Ive used some thermal tape thats way thinner than notebook paper.


VRM pads should be thicker than what you imply IMO. That due to a simple fact that VRMs will not be perfectly flat. You need some layway in case they are not properly aligned so everyone gets a fair share of pressure from the pads and the heatsink.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> I was talking about the stock VRM cooler when i removed mine (cpu cooler required it) i kinds ripped it a bit and i ended up cutting a chunk out of an unused part to cover 1 Transistor and I'd rather get a new pad for safety sake.


As long as the pads cover everything, no issues. Just make sure that are clean from dusts and other things.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> how is running pime95 not pushing the chip?


Mega was saying to push the clocks further. Not stressing it.
If your rig is cool enough, go squeeze few more MHz from it.
And yeah, your six cores will not give those VRMs proper workouts compared with those octacores.


----------



## vartok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> U have to turn off all the power saving feature so that the processor will not downclock it self to save power when not needed.. Sory for my bad english..


i know that, but its downclocking durring prime95 and intel burn tersts


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> i know that, but its downclocking durring prime95 and intel burn tersts


Could be throttling. Or turbo kicking in and out.


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> i know that, but its downclocking durring prime95 and intel burn tersts


Yes i think mine also do that when on optimize default. But not that sure coz its been a while when i run on default.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> Yes i think mine also do that when on optimize default. But not that sure coz its been a while when i run on default.


You have to disable turbo core, and power saving features to get a stable default clock.

You would also need to verify the characteristics of downclocking. It could be all of the cores downclocking which is caused by turbo and power savers. Or
Some cores lower than others which is throttling. Could be heat, or voltage.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vartok*
> 
> not sure if i should post this here or over in a thread about my proc... but ive been testing my new fx-8350.... and ive noticed it will randomly down clock for about 10 seconds every so often (have a OSD for temps and such) and it looks like the mulitplier is dropping... temps arnt too high... any thoughts?


you need to turn off apm OR turn on HPC
apm will throttle the cpu at 40c socket, and again @ 72c socket.

it will also throttle if you pull too many amps

HPC will stop all throttling except socket @72 on this board
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> *try actually pushing the chip*
> several
> 
> you can snug it in/wedge it in, set it on gpu, screw it in to the HS, double sided tape, anyway you can now i am much lazier, i just block them
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> he wanted to know the stock pad size
> 
> 
> 
> how is running pime95 not pushing the chip?
Click to expand...

your 6 core will need farm more volts before the vrms are stressed which means much higher clocks


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> Definite answer?, no. The VRM heatsink up front will have the biggest effect on dropping VRM temps. Factly because of the heatsink. The backside only has a plate which will gain you less temp drop than the one up front.


I just looked over the backside of the Sabertooth in the VRM area. On the M5A99 boards, there are 8 small chips there that have been measured to reach over 113C. Those backside chips at those temps certainly add to the heat of the frontside chips. (1/16th fiberglass has an R rating of way less than 1) I think that plate is acting like a small heatsink for those chips. That frontside vrm heatsink, while one of the largest for 990 boards, certainly isnt massive enough to require metal plate reinforcement, lol.









Anyway, front and back cooling should be used for maximum benefit.

Also adding a strip heatsink there looks like a nice do able mod for the M5A boards.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> I just looked over the backside of the Sabertooth in the VRM area. On the M5A99 boards, there are 8 small chips there that have been measured to reach over 113C. Those backside chips at those temps certainly add to the heat of the frontside chips. (1/16th fiberglass has an R rating of way less than 1) I think that plate is acting like a small heatsink for those chips. That frontside vrm heatsink, while one of the largest for 990 boards, certainly isnt massive enough to require metal plate reinforcement, lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, front and back cooling should be used for maximum benefit.
> 
> Also adding a strip heatsink there looks like a nice do able mod for the M5A boards.


There's no such thing as a heatsink big enough to cool these VRMs when everyone is pushing the crap out of their system ?

Those delicate components though heatsinked needs additional aids from air flow.

Yes, I was considering slapping in an old heatsink at the back as well. But might ruin my warranty on this new board. And my case got some of the plate up top.

Bottom line is, power components work best at 50% or less of their max thermal limits.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> There's no such thing as a heatsink big enough to cool these VRMs when everyone is pushing the crap out of their system ?


Heh, aint that the truth.








Quote:


> And my case got some of the plate up top.


Yeah, and some cases have no back hole at all. Thats why I think the most Asus could do was just to use a plain aluminum bar back there.


----------



## vartok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you need to turn off apm OR turn on HPC
> apm will throttle the cpu at 40c socket, and again @ 72c socket.
> 
> it will also throttle if you pull too many amps
> 
> HPC will stop all throttling except socket @72 on this board


oh thanks, that did the trick, now to find my max load temp again and see if i have enough headroom for overclocking... if my PSU will hold out


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Yeah, and some cases have no back hole at all. Thats why I think the most Asus could do was just to use a plain aluminum bar back there.


Yup.

Mine got a back opening for the CPU Backplate. The VRM backplate was not completely cleared though.

By the way, I came from a UD3 rev3







and was already making my own VRM heatsink before the mobo died.









Good thing my CPU wasn't hurt. LOL

On a note though, I think my CPU is a DUD!!! 4.9 cant be cleared even with 1.55V


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> I just looked over the backside of the Sabertooth in the VRM area. On the M5A99 boards, there are 8 small chips there that have been measured to reach over 113C. Those backside chips at those temps certainly add to the heat of the frontside chips. (1/16th fiberglass has an R rating of way less than 1) I think that plate is acting like a small heatsink for those chips. That frontside vrm heatsink, while one of the largest for 990 boards, certainly isnt massive enough to require metal plate reinforcement, lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, front and back cooling should be used for maximum benefit.
> 
> Also adding a strip heatsink there looks like a nice do able mod for the M5A boards.
> 
> 
> 
> There's no such thing as a heatsink big enough to cool these VRMs when everyone is pushing the crap out of their system ?
> 
> Those delicate components though heatsinked needs additional aids from air flow.
> 
> Yes, I was considering slapping in an old heatsink at the back as well. But might ruin my warranty on this new board. And my case got some of the plate up top.
> 
> Bottom line is, power components work best at 50% or less of their max thermal limits.
Click to expand...

wont need on the back. it wont hurt though
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Yeah, and some cases have no back hole at all. Thats why I think the most Asus could do was just to use a plain aluminum bar back there.
> 
> 
> 
> Yup.
> 
> Mine got a back opening for the CPU Backplate. The VRM backplate was not completely cleared though.
> 
> By the way, I came from a UD3 rev3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and was already making my own VRM heatsink before the mobo died.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good thing my CPU wasn't hurt. LOL
> 
> On a note though, I think my CPU is a DUD!!! 4.9 cant be cleared even with 1.55V
Click to expand...

1.6 at that level is not uncommon


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> wont need on the back. it wont hurt though


It would be extra insurance for me if my 92mm fan fails for some reason. The fan is on the back where I dont usually see it for long times and its on my cpu-opt header and since I mostly use HWinfo64 for my readings, the cpu_opt fan speed is curiously not displayed. I have to use AI Suite II (or bios) to see the cpu_opt fan header readings.
Then again, if I saw my socket temps suddenly increase, I would investigate, heh.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> It would be extra insurance for me if my 92mm fan fails for some reason. The fan is on the back where I dont usually see it for long times and its on my cpu-opt header and since I mostly use HWinfo64 for my readings, the cpu_opt fan speed is curiously not displayed. I have to use AI Suite II (or bios) to see the cpu_opt fan header readings.
> Then again, if I saw my socket temps suddenly increase, I would investigate, heh.


A finned heatsink at the back will really help cool the VRM. You will have around twice the effective cooling capacity of the stock VRM Heatsink with some proper fans and good airflow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> wont need on the back. it wont hurt though


Yeah tell me. Got my VRMs ruuning past 75 with a closed back cover. and a good 55 max at Ultra with it open and a fan.















Quote:


> 1.6 at that level is not uncommon


LOL 4.9 bootable at 1.55.. Guess I'll have to get it wet to shoot 5.0GHz.









Gotta go save myself a 360mm kit..


----------



## rollobollo

I would like to leave a tip about VRM cooling. I made this little doohickie out of a ram cooler which was just a waste of space really, but it did have a perfect 40mm fan with working LED and thermocouple so I stuck that bad boy in there. I provided a pic.


It helped me achieve this http://valid.x86.fr/1izwdb, as you can see I had to *upgrade my ram* as my mushkin was fried eggs-n-ham after that run and my psu was never the same and the gpu, well it was time to upgrade that as well







And yes I know about the RM850 recall, mines is a 1347 so I am in the safe zone, but for those that don't know and you own a Corsair RM750 or like me the RM850 you should read a recall notice from Corsair about a potential issue that may effect your PSU. Here is the link *http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=123484*


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> I would like to leave a tip about VRM cooling. I made this little doohickie out of a ram cooler which was just a waste of space really, but it did have a perfect 40mm fan with working LED and thermocouple so I stuck that bad boy in there. I provided a pic.
> 
> 
> It helped me achieve this http://valid.x86.fr/1izwdb, as you can see I had to *upgrade my ram* as my mushkin was fried eggs-n-ham after that run and my psu was never the same and the gpu, well it was time to upgrade that as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes I know about the RM850 recall, mines is a 1347 so I am in the safe zone, but for those that don't know and you own a Corsair RM750 or like me the RM850 you should read a recall notice from Corsair about a potential issue that may effect your PSU. Here is the link *http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=123484*


Fantastic overclock, I have the same CPU and Motherboard. Would you, if you don't mind, post or PM me with your BIOS settings for that OC?

Here is what I have achieved so far:

http://valid.canardpc.com/ijsaat

Thanks,

Mike


----------



## rollobollo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Fantastic overclock, I have the same CPU and Motherboard. Would you, if you don't mind, post or PM me with your BIOS settings for that OC?
> 
> Here is what I have achieved so far:
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/ijsaat
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike


I fried my ram which nearly cost 200 dollars ( Mushkin Enhanced 1600 DDR3 ) I know you want to get a high overclock, but ask yourself this, can you afford the overclock you are seeking? Because if you can answer yes to replacing all your parts then I can help you, otherwise, you have a great cpu and a very good motherboard. Why risk breaking things? You have to understand, I am in eastern EU and this was dead winter, it was something like 2 degrees away from 0 C in my room, to achieve this I had to open all windows and balcony for 2 hours and wait tugged inside my bed like a burrito. I have learned 2 things from this 1. It is just a number, it has no real meaning, unless you plan on making a LN2 dewar with a cold-finger recycler to run gases through copper pipes under your cpu socket for constant temperature there is really no point, I understand *a lot* of hobbyists overclock to see who can get higher but you really need a lot of money and sometimes it just isn't worth it. I got my OC using nothing but a Thermaltake 2.0 Pro AIO, a bunch of fans and that vrm fan and a bunch of thermocouples (not that seeing a temp go up high would do me much good, it would just stress me even more ). And the second thing I have learned is, be happy with what you have, and your overclock is more than enough, but if you want a more *stable overclock* without going too high, use your bus also, a combination of bus and multiplier is how I got mines as you see bus 271 x multiplier 20. I am sorry it is not the answer you want, but I do not want a bunch of guys copying down my figures and breaking their systems and coming back blaming me that I somehow broke their setup. It has happened before, and I will not let it happen again. I am truly sorry. But I did give you a tip









PS Just remember, when you increase the BUS, you also increase the North bridge, your ram frequency, your HT Link Speed and a bunch of other things, you may not want increased, it really is a sea-saw combination and you have to be VERY careful to pay attention to EVERY detail and check everything at least 4 times before you F10.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> I fried my ram which nearly cost 200 dollars ( Mushkin Enhanced 1600 DDR3 ) I know you want to get a high overclock, but ask yourself this, can you afford the overclock you are seeking? Because if you can answer yes to replacing all your parts then I can help you, otherwise, you have a great cpu and a very good motherboard. Why risk breaking things? You have to understand, I am in eastern EU and this was dead winter, it was something like 2 degrees away from 0 C in my room, to achieve this I had to open all windows and balcony for 2 hours and wait tugged inside my bed like a burrito. I have learned 2 things from this 1. It is just a number, it has no real meaning, unless you plan on making a LN2 dewar with a cold-finger recycler to run gases through copper pipes under your cpu socket for constant temperature there is really no point, I understand *a lot* of hobbyists overclock to see who can get higher but you really need a lot of money and sometimes it just isn't worth it. I got my OC using nothing but a Thermaltake 2.0 Pro AIO, a bunch of fans and that vrm fan and a bunch of thermocouples (not that seeing a temp go up high would do me much good, it would just stress me even more ). And the second thing I have learned is, be happy with what you have, and your overclock is more than enough, but if you want a more *stable overclock* without going too high, use your bus also, a combination of bus and multiplier is how I got mines as you see bus 271 x multiplier 20. I am sorry it is not the answer you want, but I do not want a bunch of guys copying down my figures and breaking their systems and coming back blaming me that I somehow broke their setup. It has happened before, and I will not let it happen again. I am truly sorry. But I did give you a tip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS Just remember, when you increase the BUS, you also increase the North bridge, your ram frequency, your HT Link Speed and a bunch of other things, you may not want increased, it really is a sea-saw combination and you have to be VERY careful to pay attention to EVERY detail and check everything at least 4 times before you F10.


Couldn't agree more.

Thing is your ambient played a big role in your overclock.
You might also have a golden chip to boot.
And yeah, things that worked for you might not work for everyone.

Looking at your VRM fan, I gotta say it's quite too small to give you enough boost. But since your ambient is wonderful, I couldn't say something more.

Great OC tbh.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Fantastic overclock, I have the same CPU and Motherboard. Would you, if you don't mind, post or PM me with your BIOS settings for that OC?
> 
> Here is what I have achieved so far:
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/ijsaat
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike


Get a proper cooler and give your rig enough time to get the results you want.

4.8 is quite the sweet spot for performance on these chips. TBH though, I still can't get past the OC I was able to achieve on a mediocre board using this saberkitty. Makes me wonder if I made the right financial decision.

But the board is solid and a fuss to work with. Couldn't blame the board. On air, with 30s ambient temp, I can only be happy with what I got so far. 5GHz is my goal but I can't go on further than 4.8 at the moment due to my cooling limitation.

So until I got myself a proper loop, I'd stay with my daily 4.5 that runs cool with 55 max case closed, VRM at 55 stressing.

So yeah, a proper cooler will not hurt your aspiration to get high clocks. Just your wallet. ?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Fantastic overclock, I have the same CPU and Motherboard. Would you, if you don't mind, post or PM me with your BIOS settings for that OC?
> 
> Here is what I have achieved so far:
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/ijsaat
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> 
> I fried my ram which nearly cost 200 dollars ( Mushkin Enhanced 1600 DDR3 ) I know you want to get a high overclock, but ask yourself this, can you afford the overclock you are seeking? Because if you can answer yes to replacing all your parts then I can help you, otherwise, you have a great cpu and a very good motherboard. Why risk breaking things? You have to understand, I am in eastern EU and this was dead winter, it was something like 2 degrees away from 0 C in my room, to achieve this I had to open all windows and balcony for 2 hours and wait tugged inside my bed like a burrito. I have learned 2 things from this 1. It is just a number, it has no real meaning, unless you plan on making a LN2 dewar with a cold-finger recycler to run gases through copper pipes under your cpu socket for constant temperature there is really no point, I understand *a lot* of hobbyists overclock to see who can get higher but you really need a lot of money and sometimes it just isn't worth it. I got my OC using nothing but a Thermaltake 2.0 Pro AIO, a bunch of fans and that vrm fan and a bunch of thermocouples (not that seeing a temp go up high would do me much good, it would just stress me even more ). And the second thing I have learned is, be happy with what you have, and your overclock is more than enough, but if you want a more *stable overclock* without going too high, use your bus also, a combination of bus and multiplier is how I got mines as you see bus 271 x multiplier 20. I am sorry it is not the answer you want, but I do not want a bunch of guys copying down my figures and breaking their systems and coming back blaming me that I somehow broke their setup. It has happened before, and I will not let it happen again. I am truly sorry. But I did give you a tip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS Just remember, when you increase the BUS, you also increase the North bridge, your ram frequency, your HT Link Speed and a bunch of other things, you may not want increased, it really is a sea-saw combination and you have to be VERY careful to pay attention to EVERY detail and check everything at least 4 times before you F10.
Click to expand...

lots and lots of volts that is the key

i got mine to 5.5 mine was in mid summer iirc


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> I would like to leave a tip about VRM cooling. I made this little doohickie out of a ram cooler which was just a waste of space really, but it did have a perfect 40mm fan with working LED and thermocouple so I stuck that bad boy in there. I provided a pic.
> 
> 
> It helped me achieve this http://valid.x86.fr/1izwdb, as you can see I had to *upgrade my ram* as my mushkin was fried eggs-n-ham after that run and my psu was never the same and the gpu, well it was time to upgrade that as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes I know about the RM850 recall, mines is a 1347 so I am in the safe zone, but for those that don't know and you own a Corsair RM750 or like me the RM850 you should read a recall notice from Corsair about a potential issue that may effect your PSU. Here is the link *http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=123484*


my poor chip just won't do it past 5.2xx... I've tried even up to 1.65 vcore... no boot lol... even tried an in OS software OC and it just froze... oh well... I can at least run 4.8 ghz 24/7 for all situations... and up to 5 ghz for short stress tests and for all normal use... takes 1.62 vcore though... seems like my problems are memory related... but I can't figure out just what to do to stabilize it... but it will pass small ffts just fine even at only 1.55 vcore for 5ghz... but takes 1.62 to get it to pass even short times of blend on all 8 cores... but temps won't allow for longer testing... I can run 5.2 ghz @ 1.62 for benches.. short ones lol... any tips for this... I have a 120x360mm rad with six fans and an XSPC cooling block with same name pump and res so cooling isn't greatest... but isn't bad either.... I have tried upping the ram volts...droping them, lowering speed of ram and raising cpu/np volts and OC'ing cpu/nb as well...


----------



## rollobollo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> my poor chip just won't do it past 5.2xx... I've tried even up to 1.65 vcore... no boot lol... even tried an in OS software OC and it just froze... oh well... I can at least run 4.8 ghz 24/7 for all situations... and up to 5 ghz for short stress tests and for all normal use... takes 1.62 vcore though... seems like my problems are memory related... but I can't figure out just what to do to stabilize it... but it will pass small ffts just fine even at only 1.55 vcore for 5ghz... but takes 1.62 to get it to pass even short times of blend on all 8 cores... but temps won't allow for longer testing... I can run 5.2 ghz @ 1.62 for benches.. short ones lol... any tips for this... I have a 120x360mm rad with six fans and an XSPC cooling block with same name pump and res so cooling isn't greatest... but isn't bad either.... I have tried upping the ram volts...droping them, lowering speed of ram and raising cpu/np volts and OC'ing cpu/nb as well...


How is your CPU VDDA Voltage holding *up*







Has it changed any funny colors yet Lower HT link never hurt anyone, and are those ram timings lose as a goose yet? I don't know if that is a joke or not but I find it funny


----------



## rollobollo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Fantastic overclock, I have the same CPU and Motherboard. Would you, if you don't mind, post or PM me with your BIOS settings for that OC?
> 
> Here is what I have achieved so far:
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/ijsaat
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike


Also wanted to ask you why is your ht link @ 2400, our chips are NB Frequency 2200 / HT Link 2600 also, and something tells me you might not be using load line calibration, if you are I apologize


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> Also wanted to ask you why is your ht link @ 2400, our chips are NB Frequency 2200 / HT Link 2600 also, and something tells me you might not be using load line calibration, if you are I apologize


I wish I had the board here to look where the LLC is set. I just RMA'd it. Had problems with erratic temp readings on PCIe-2. Only thing is PCIe-2 is not occupied!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> I would like to leave a tip about VRM cooling. I made this little doohickie out of a ram cooler which was just a waste of space really, but it did have a perfect 40mm fan with working LED and thermocouple so I stuck that bad boy in there. I provided a pic.
> 
> 
> It helped me achieve this http://valid.x86.fr/1izwdb, as you can see I had to *upgrade my ram* as my mushkin was fried eggs-n-ham after that run and my psu was never the same and the gpu, well it was time to upgrade that as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes I know about the RM850 recall, mines is a 1347 so I am in the safe zone, but for those that don't know and you own a Corsair RM750 or like me the RM850 you should read a recall notice from Corsair about a potential issue that may effect your PSU. Here is the link *http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=123484*
> 
> 
> 
> my poor chip just won't do it past 5.2xx... I've tried even up to 1.65 vcore... no boot lol... even tried an in OS software OC and it just froze... oh well... I can at least run 4.8 ghz 24/7 for all situations... and up to 5 ghz for short stress tests and for all normal use... takes 1.62 vcore though... seems like my problems are memory related... but I can't figure out just what to do to stabilize it... but it will pass small ffts just fine even at only 1.55 vcore for 5ghz... but takes 1.62 to get it to pass even short times of blend on all 8 cores... but temps won't allow for longer testing... I can run 5.2 ghz @ 1.62 for benches.. short ones lol... any tips for this... I have a 120x360mm rad with six fans and an XSPC cooling block with same name pump and res so cooling isn't greatest... but isn't bad either.... I have tried upping the ram volts...droping them, lowering speed of ram and raising cpu/np volts and OC'ing cpu/nb as well...
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> my poor chip just won't do it past 5.2xx... I've tried even up to 1.65 vcore... no boot lol... even tried an in OS software OC and it just froze... oh well... I can at least run 4.8 ghz 24/7 for all situations... and up to 5 ghz for short stress tests and for all normal use... takes 1.62 vcore though... seems like my problems are memory related... but I can't figure out just what to do to stabilize it... but it will pass small ffts just fine even at only 1.55 vcore for 5ghz... but takes 1.62 to get it to pass even short times of blend on all 8 cores... but temps won't allow for longer testing... I can run 5.2 ghz @ 1.62 for benches.. short ones lol... any tips for this... I have a 120x360mm rad with six fans and an XSPC cooling block with same name pump and res so cooling isn't greatest... but isn't bad either.... I have tried upping the ram volts...droping them, lowering speed of ram and raising cpu/np volts and OC'ing cpu/nb as well...
> 
> 
> 
> How is your CPU VDDA Voltage holding *up*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has it changed any funny colors yet Lower HT link never hurt anyone, and are those ram timings lose as a goose yet? I don't know if that is a joke or not but I find it funny
Click to expand...

you dont need to bump cpu vdda on saberkitty vcore, cpu/nb nb and really thats it, that is all i did, but on my other chip i hit 5.55 bench stable

http://hwbot.org/submission/2384963_

ill do it again some day, but back then bios vcore was capped at 1.7v


----------



## Minotaurtoo

mega man, how much did you up the nb to? I have been a bit nervous playing with other voltages than just vcore, and cpu/nb.... also, there are sooo many ram timing options, not sure which ones are best to fool with and how lol... I've mostly used stock timings for whatever speed its running.... that may be my problem.. who knows lol..


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> mega man, how much did you up the nb to? I have been a bit nervous playing with other voltages than just vcore, and cpu/nb.... also, there are sooo many ram timing options, not sure which ones are best to fool with and how lol... I've mostly used stock timings for whatever speed its running.... that may be my problem.. who knows lol..


Yea i also wana know.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> mega man, how much did you up the nb to? I have been a bit nervous playing with other voltages than just vcore, and cpu/nb.... also, there are sooo many ram timing options, not sure which ones are best to fool with and how lol... I've mostly used stock timings for whatever speed its running.... that may be my problem.. who knows lol..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> Yea i also wana know.


CPU-NB Multiplier..























Still haven't tested much but 2750 is a no-go on mine.
3000 HT Link is easy.
CPU-NB Voltage at 1.300
HT-Link doesn't need much of a Voltage Bump.

I was able to reach 2670 on a Giga. 1.350 CPU-NB Volts


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> 3000 HT Link is easy


Mega-man is at 3900 HT Link IIRC.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Mega-man is at 3900 HT Link IIRC.


Yup.

He needs that for QuadFire. To boast his Physics capability.

Nonsense to go that high using less than 3 cards. The gain is minimal if there is.

Point is, 3000 HT Link is too easy to get. Even still, there's too little to be gained aside from the Mobo NB heating up quicker.


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Yup.
> 
> He needs that for QuadFire. To boast his Physics capability.
> 
> Nonsense to go that high using less than 3 cards. The gain is minimal if there is.
> 
> Point is, 3000 HT Link is too easy to get. Even still, there's too little to be gained aside from the Mobo NB heating up quicker.


What if i downclock my ht and overclock the cpu what will hapen? Just curious.. Hehe.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> What if i downclock my ht and overclock the cpu what will hapen? Just curious.. Hehe.


Nothing. A slightly cooler NB maybe.

Besides, OC'ing the CPU is the main goal. That's why people advise to just use Multi. It's just for the CPU alone. Which will also give you the most performance increase.

Those who use a combination of the FSB and Multi wants to refine everything. RAM, CPU-NB, HT, even PCIe Clock. Just be extremely careful with the latter.

In my experience from a GIGA,

Multi - CPU OC, I cannot stabilize 4.8GHz on pure multi.
Combo - FSB of 253 X 19 = 4800 can be stabilized using slightly less voltage.

CPU-NB if dropped from stock of 2200 will give you larger latency esp in the memory. Too high, and you will have difficulty in stabilizing. Needs moar Volts as Mega say.

Just a note on these chips, FSB is directly linked to CPU-NB and HT. Not really a problem with saberkitty but some boards don't show the actual HT and CPU-NB clocks at the bios when doing FSB OC. Thus find it hard to stabilize them. And say, too much of a hassle to do.

And remember, HT can only be higher or equal to CPU-NB.

Edit: You can still OC cpu-nb and RAM via the multiplier. But the effect on RAM performance could still be less than using FSB to OC the CPU-NB.

ie. FSB 200, CPU-NB at 2600, Memory at 2133 CL9 will score lower on Memory Benchmarks than FSB of 267, CPU-NB of 2403, RAM at 2133 with same timings.

Just my experience though


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Nothing. A slightly cooler NB maybe.
> 
> Besides, OC'ing the CPU is the main goal. That's why people advise to just use Multi. It's just for the CPU alone. Which will also give you the most performance increase.
> 
> Those who use a combination of the FSB and Multi wants to refine everything. RAM, CPU-NB, HT, even PCIe Clock. Just be extremely careful with the latter.
> 
> In my experience from a GIGA,
> 
> Multi - CPU OC, I cannot stabilize 4.8GHz on pure multi.
> Combo - FSB of 253 X 19 = 4800 can be stabilized using slightly less voltage.
> 
> CPU-NB if dropped from stock of 2200 will give you larger latency esp in the memory. Too much, and you will have difficulty in stabilizing. Needs moar Volts as Mega say.
> 
> Just a note on these chips, FSB is directly linked to CPU-NB and HT. Not really a problem with saberkitty but some boards don't show the actual HT and CPU-NB clocks at the bios when doing FSB OC. Thus find it hard to stabilize them. And say, too much of a hassle to do.
> 
> And remember, HT can only be higher or equal to CPU-NB.


Thank you so much. This is a big help for me speacialy the nb part. Now i know what thay do..







my set up is
240bus
2400 nb
2600 on ht
19.5 multiplayer

So this is good to go?


----------



## rollobollo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> I wish I had the board here to look where the LLC is set. I just RMA'd it. Had problems with erratic temp readings on PCIe-2. Only thing is PCIe-2 is not occupied!


How did you come to this conclusion, because if you were using their *software as in ASUS AI Suite II* it spits out random temp numbers on all things, it is VERY buggy*. if that is how you came to this conclusion this is the most likely scenario when they receive your board. They will stick in one stick of ram listed on their DRAM QVL list, and if it posts, send it right back, I know you probably like their software (IF that is how you came to this conclusion, but I call it bloatware, personal conclusion of course) and I would never trust ASUS AI Suite II. If this is the scenario, you basically sent them a good board for no reason at all other than some buggy piece of code that I heard was written by..well never mind, I am not here to say negative things, I do after all use their Asus Sabertooth 990fx R2.0 and their Asus GTX780-DC2OC-3GD5 and love them both. Perhaps next time you have such an issue you can contact one of us, even me if you would like, I will set my settings to allow IMs and add you as a friend as I can see you need some help and I am willing to offer it to you. If that is not the case, and you used something like a Unit-T M8990G with a thermocouple attached and you actually took the real temp of the PCIe-2 and it indeed was going bonkers then consider this post null and I will try to delete it. I apologize if I came of harsh, but I came across a few people that were ready to RMA because of ASUS AI Suite telling them their CPU temp was 81823838 C







Not even kidding.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> Thank you so much. This is a big help for me speacialy the nb part. Now i know what thay do..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my set up is
> 240bus
> 2400 nb
> 2600 on ht
> 19.5 multiplayer
> 
> So this is good to go?


You need to test them!!














*Observe Aida scores*. You want the best of things. More Bandwidth, Less Memory Latency.

Looks good on paper IMO. Just for you to prove. Also note that there have been reports that FSB has some holes.

example, if 269 is unstable or unbootable, try 275 while watching your CPU-NB not to go beyond 2700 or more.









Again, AIDA64 to test your OC on the memory side.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> How did you come to this conclusion, because if you were using their *software as in ASUS AI Suite II* it spits out random temp numbers on all things, it is VERY buggy*. if that is how you came to this conclusion this is the most likely scenario when they receive your board. They will stick in one stick of ram listed on their DRAM QVL list, and if it posts, send it right back, I know you probably like their software (IF that is how you came to this conclusion, but I call it bloatware, personal conclusion of course) and I would never trust ASUS AI Suite II. If this is the scenario, you basically sent them a good board for no reason at all other than some buggy piece of code that I heard was written by..well never mind, I am not here to say negative things, I do after all use their Asus Sabertooth 990fx R2.0 and their Asus GTX780-DC2OC-3GD5 and love them both. Perhaps next time you have such an issue you can contact one of us, even me if you would like, I will set my settings to allow IMs and add you as a friend as I can see you need some help and I am willing to offer it to you. If that is not the case, and you used something like a Unit-T M8990G with a thermocouple attached and you actually took the real temp of the PCIe-2 and it indeed was going bonkers then consider this post null and I will try to delete it. I apologize if I came of harsh, but I came across a few people that were ready to RMA because of ASUS AI Suite telling them their CPU temp was 81823838 C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not even kidding.


Very true









Report my RAM is at -265 degrees.. LOL negative 265


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You need to test them!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Observe Aida scores*. You want the best of things. More Bandwidth, Less Memory Latency.
> 
> Looks good on paper IMO. Just for you to prove. Also note that there have been reports that FSB has some holes.
> 
> example, if 269 is unstable or unbootable, try 275 while watching your CPU-NB not to go beyond 2700 or more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, AIDA64 to test your OC on the memory side.


Yes im corently strestesting rightnow i dont know how to test the nb and the ram..







im just makit it stable at prime95 can you guide me? Sory for my bad english.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> Yes im corently strestesting rightnow i dont know how to test the nb and the ram..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im just makit it stable at prime95 can you guide me? Sory for my bad english.


Use AIDA64. If you don't know what it is, DOWNLOAD A TRIAL.
Under Tools, there's an Option called Memory and Cache Benchmark. Run that.

It also has a Stability test suite. But can't push your chip like Prime or IBT AVX does.


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Use AIDA64. If you don't know what it is, DOWNLOAD A TRIAL.
> Under Tools, there's an Option called Memory and Cache Benchmark. Run that.
> 
> It also has a Stability test suite. But can't push your chip like Prime or IBT AVX does.


can i test while strestesting on prime? im corrently almost 2hrs of stressing right now i don't want to interap.. hehe..


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> can i test while strestesting on prime? im corrently almost 2hrs of stressing right now i don't want to interap.. hehe..


Effing NO!!!!

will hardlock your system.


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Effing NO!!!!
> 
> will hardlock your system.


hehehe.. oke i will w8 untill stable of 3hrs and then try to test the ram and will report to you.. thank you so much. +1


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> mega man, how much did you up the nb to? I have been a bit nervous playing with other voltages than just vcore, and cpu/nb.... also, there are sooo many ram timing options, not sure which ones are best to fool with and how lol... I've mostly used stock timings for whatever speed its running.... that may be my problem.. who knows lol..


volts? i have pushed 1.6+ cpu/nb


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> hehehe.. oke i will w8 untill stable of 3hrs and then try to test the ram and will report to you.. thank you so much. +1


I'd suggest testing different settings to get the best performance.

1. Go into the Bios to try things up.

2. Boot to windows. Run AIDA Benchmark. And some others.

3. Record your scores.

4. Capture the one that gets you an all round best score. And stabilize that.

5. Go to the 2nd best if you encounter difficulty stabilizing and or, too much heat to cope for.


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I'd suggest testing different settings to get the best performance.
> 
> 1. Go into the Bios to try things up.
> 
> 2. Boot to windows. Run AIDA Benchmark. And some others.
> 
> 3. Record your scores.
> 
> 4. Capture the one that gets you an all round best score. And stabilize that.
> 
> 5. Go to the 2nd best if you encounter difficulty stabilizing and or, too much heat to cope for.


thank you so much.. i will depenently do that.


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I'd suggest testing different settings to get the best performance.
> 
> 1. Go into the Bios to try things up.
> 
> 2. Boot to windows. Run AIDA Benchmark. And some others.
> 
> 3. Record your scores.
> 
> 4. Capture the one that gets you an all round best score. And stabilize that.
> 
> 5. Go to the 2nd best if you encounter difficulty stabilizing and or, too much heat to cope for.


shuld i recond the memory only or i wil wright all of them? memory l1 l2 l3?

is this good?


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> How did you come to this conclusion, because if you were using their *software as in ASUS AI Suite II* it spits out random temp numbers on all things, it is VERY buggy*. if that is how you came to this conclusion this is the most likely scenario when they receive your board. They will stick in one stick of ram listed on their DRAM QVL list, and if it posts, send it right back, I know you probably like their software (IF that is how you came to this conclusion, but I call it bloatware, personal conclusion of course) and I would never trust ASUS AI Suite II. If this is the scenario, you basically sent them a good board for no reason at all other than some buggy piece of code that I heard was written by..well never mind, I am not here to say negative things, I do after all use their Asus Sabertooth 990fx R2.0 and their Asus GTX780-DC2OC-3GD5 and love them both. Perhaps next time you have such an issue you can contact one of us, even me if you would like, I will set my settings to allow IMs and add you as a friend as I can see you need some help and I am willing to offer it to you. If that is not the case, and you used something like a Unit-T M8990G with a thermocouple attached and you actually took the real temp of the PCIe-2 and it indeed was going bonkers then consider this post null and I will try to delete it. I apologize if I came of harsh, but I came across a few people that were ready to RMA because of ASUS AI Suite telling them their CPU temp was 81823838 C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not even kidding.


All I can say is that this is an example of my ignorance in all matters computer! I also had another issue going on - AMD System Monitor was showing that, when in CrossFire X, the bottom GPU seemed to be doing 98% of the work and the top GPU was doing little or nothing, when benchmarking or just sitting idle. I found out only too late that I needed to disable ULPS in order to correct that.

Thank You for your response and offer to help! It'll come in handy.

Mike


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> shuld i recond the memory only or i wil wright all of them? memory l1 l2 l3?
> 
> is this good?


Click on the Save.

Quite high on latency I think.


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Click on the Save.
> 
> Quite high on latency I think.


How to improve the latency? Is it the nb or the ram timings?


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> How to improve the latency? Is it the nb or the ram timings?


i just ran aida64 memory bench and i got nearly the same result you did and when i overclocked to 4.8 my latency dropped from 62.5 to 56.8 so based on my own experience i think it's tied with the CPU rather than the NB or anything else.

Just to see what happens try overclocking only with the multiplier and put the NB and HTT frequency to 2600MHz


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> i just ran aida64 memory bench and i got nearly the same result you did and when i overclocked to 4.8 my latency dropped from 62.5 to 56.8 so based on my own experience i think it's tied with the CPU rather than the NB or anything else.
> 
> Just to see what happens try overclocking only with the multiplier and put the NB and HTT frequency to 2600MHz


Thank you for the info. Im curently testing some stufs. Hehehe..


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> i just ran aida64 memory bench and i got nearly the same result you did and when i overclocked to 4.8 my latency dropped from 62.5 to 56.8 so based on my own experience i think it's tied with the CPU rather than the NB or anything else.
> 
> Just to see what happens try overclocking only with the multiplier and put the NB and HTT frequency to 2600MHz


Something might be wrong on you timings. 10-11-11-13
13 should be around 30 iirc..

Besides you did run cpunb to 2600..


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Something might be wrong on you timings. 10-11-11-13
> 13 should be around 30 iirc..
> 
> Besides you did run cpunb to 2600..


does it matter if its lower than 30? and yes i did run 2600 is that bad?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> does it matter if its lower than 30? and yes i did run 2600 is that bad?


Actually might lose some bandwidth.

2600 is just right to give you a good score..

Compared to fsb + multi though, hmmm

Edit:
Here, to show you that memory latency is not linked to CPU clock.

Same timings. Just the CPU multi changed.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



4.75 GHz



4.5 GHz


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> does it matter if its lower than 30?


tRAS should be the sum of the other 3 timings. For example, 9-9-9 should have a tRAS of 27.

Of the 4 timings given by the manufacturer, tRAS is the least important for performance, CAS which is the first 9, is the most important.

You dont want to set tRAS too low, it will hurt performance. Setting tRAS too low is like someone turning a page in a book before you finished reading the page. Then you have to go back and re-read the page. Thats time consuming as heck, heh. You want the page turned at just the moment youve finished reading it for max efficiency. And its better to have the page turned a bit slower than it is to go back and re-read the page.


----------



## Pill Monster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Click on the Save.
> 
> Quite high on latency I think.
> 
> 
> 
> How to improve the latency? Is it the nb or the ram timings?
Click to expand...

Bulldozer's L3 cache is to blame and there's not much you can do unfortunately.

AMD initially said they would address the issue with Steamroller then later decided it wasn't really a priority... Dunno what the end result was....


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> does it matter if its lower than 30?
> 
> 
> 
> tRAS should be the sum of the other 3 timings. For example, 9-9-9 should have a tRAS of 27.
> 
> Of the 4 timings given by the manufacturer, tRAS is the least important for performance, CAS which is the first 9, is the most important.
> 
> You dont want to set tRAS too low, it will hurt performance. Setting tRAS too low is like someone turning a page in a book before you finished reading the page. Then you have to go back and re-read the page. Thats time consuming as heck, heh. You want the page turned at just the moment youve finished reading it for max efficiency. And its better to have the page turned a bit slower than it is to go back and re-read the page.
Click to expand...

most say add the three and subtract 3


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> most say add the three and subtract 3


Yeah, it does seem like a lot of manufacturers do that nowadays. But plus 3 tRAS means nothing for performance.


----------



## rollobollo

I love Aida64 <3 especially with my Logitech G19, pure magic. Also I am surprised no one here has mentioned OCCT for stress testing, that is one piece of *tough* stress testing software. It really gets those gears going, not to mention it spits out a nice report in .txt style made up of every part tested, such as each cpu core, nb, ram, etc etc, I have included a pic of the results it spits out and a pic of what OCCT looks like. For those interested here is a link to OCCT http://www.ocbase.com/ and I am not affiliated with them in any way shape or form


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> Also I am surprised no one here has mentioned OCCT for stress testing,


Pretty much everyone here knows about OCCT, but prime95 small FFTs will get the cpu hotter.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> most say add the three and subtract 3


Yes, I've noticed the sticker on my RAM is 9-9-9-24 - even though it is currently running @ 11-11-11-28. I don't know anything about getting this RAM to run at it's intended 9-9-9-24.


----------



## diggiddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Yes, I've noticed the sticker on my RAM is 9-9-9-24 - even though it is currently running @ 11-11-11-28. I don't know anything about getting this RAM to run at it's intended 9-9-9-24.


Go into bios change dram timings and make sure dram voltage are matching specs on sticker, save settings, reboot


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Yeah, it does seem like a lot of manufacturers do that nowadays. But plus 3 tRAS means nothing for performance.


+3 Tras could actually mean an additional of few nS on latency and a little bit of stability for the ram.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Yes, I've noticed the sticker on my RAM is 9-9-9-24 - even though it is currently running @ 11-11-11-28. I don't know anything about getting this RAM to run at it's intended 9-9-9-24.


This board seem to neglect XMP profiles. My 1866 9-11-9-27-42-cr1 runs 1866 11-11-11-28-42-cr2 by default when using D.O.C.P profile 0..

Manually entering those values make my ram run to their specified timings.

I'm beginning to get the scores I can achieve on the giga on this board... Ram timings were a bit easier on the giga IMO. And saberkitty seems to be more delicate on finding instability on the rams as well.


----------



## rollobollo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Yes, I've noticed the sticker on my RAM is 9-9-9-24 - even though it is currently running @ 11-11-11-28. I don't know anything about getting this RAM to run at it's intended 9-9-9-24.


I believe the last tab in the advanced Sabertooth990fx R2.0 (If you have gotten it back from the RMA yet) lists the SPD for the ram currently in the system, otherwise you can do what the poster above me said or use a program called CPU-Z and click the SPD tab and see your correct JDEC for XMP, of course on a AMD system it is D.O.C.P , you can even set your board to D.O.C.P, copy down the right settings after F10 reboot (you will lose your overclock, so before you reboot, write down any settings you made or simply create a profile in the last tab in the advanced menu, this way, once you know your correct timings, you can plug them in manually after setting your OC profile back









An even easier way (if you happen to have Aida64) to get the correct timings is to open up aida and go Menu->Motherboard->SPD and it will list all the possibilities you can do with your ram. Of course once you get the hang of things, you can experiment a little, but this is highly not advised.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Originally Posted by JourneymanMike View Post

Yes, I've noticed the sticker on my RAM is 9-9-9-24 - even though it is currently running @ 11-11-11-28. I don't know anything about getting this RAM to run at it's intended 9-9-9-24.

I believe the last tab in the advanced Sabertooth990fx R2.0 (If you have gotten it back from the RMA yet) lists the SPD for the ram currently in the system, otherwise you can do what the poster above me said or use a program called CPU-Z and click the SPD tab and see your correct JDEC for XMP, of course on a AMD system it is D.O.C.P , you can even set your board to D.O.C.P, copy down the right settings after F10 reboot (you will lose your overclock, so before you reboot, write down any settings you made or simply create a profile in the last tab in the advanced menu, this way, once you know your correct timings, you can plug them in manually after setting your OC profile back smile.gif

An even easier way (if you happen to have Aida64) to get the correct timings is to open up aida and go Menu->Motherboard->SPD and it will list all the possibilities you can do with your ram. Of course once you get the hang of things, you can experiment a little, but this is highly not advised. smile.gif

Edited by rollobollo - Today at 6:27 pm

I received an email today from ASUS RMA Dept. - the board has been repaired and is on it's way back to me. They did not say what was repaired or if anything was even wrong with it. On the ASUS website they only give a code number on it.

PRODUCT INFORMATION

SERIAL_NO PRODUCT_TYPE PART_NO PRODUCT_DESC MODEL PROBLEM
CCM0BX177239 Mother Board 90-MIBJA0-G0AAY0VZ SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 9MIBJA0VZ (3586995) rma


----------



## RichardPwnsner

Ok: I finally gave up on my piece-of-crap, never-stable, horrible-from-the-outset Sapphire 4850x2. I'm going headless, and turning this thing into a home server. Which probably makes overclocking inadvisable, but with all of the space for airflow where that hulking pile of garbage once sat, how can I not?

Seriously though: **** you, Sapphire. That card was the single worst component I've ever been stupid enough to put up with for four years. No signal at boot from the outset, BSODs within two weeks, loud as a jet engine, and (this isn't really your fault, but I hate you) premature legacy status. I'll never buy a Sapphire product again, and I hope I run into one of your engineers in a dark alley someday, so I can calmly explain why I'm dissatisfied and then refuse to shake her hand.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardPwnsner*
> 
> Ok: I finally gave up on my piece-of-crap, never-stable, horrible-from-the-outset Sapphire 4850x2. I'm going headless, and turning this thing into a home server. Which probably makes overclocking inadvisable, but with all of the space for airflow where that hulking pile of garbage once sat, how can I not?
> 
> Seriously though: **** you, Sapphire. That card was the single worst component I've ever been stupid enough to put up with for four years. No signal at boot from the outset, BSODs within two weeks, loud as a jet engine, and (this isn't really your fault, but I hate you) premature legacy status. I'll never buy a Sapphire product again, and I hope I run into one of your engineers in a dark alley someday, so I can calmly explain why I'm dissatisfied and then refuse to shake her hand.


you on joints mate?























RMA could have been your solution IMO.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> I believe the last tab in the advanced Sabertooth990fx R2.0 (If you have gotten it back from the RMA yet) lists the SPD for the ram currently in the system, otherwise you can do what the poster above me said or use a program called CPU-Z and click the SPD tab and see your correct JDEC for XMP, of course on a AMD system it is D.O.C.P , you can even set your board to D.O.C.P, copy down the right settings after F10 reboot (you will lose your overclock, so before you reboot, write down any settings you made or simply create a profile in the last tab in the advanced menu, this way, once you know your correct timings, you can plug them in manually after setting your OC profile back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An even easier way (if you happen to have Aida64) to get the correct timings is to open up aida and go Menu->Motherboard->SPD and it will list all the possibilities you can do with your ram. Of course once you get the hang of things, you can experiment a little, but this is highly not advised.


I've been digging a lot info on RAM Timings but never even thought AIDA could display them. Hmmm









Think I'm gonna try that one.

Thanks mate!
















On the same note, I think I getting the heck of setting RAM Timings on this board now. The info above will probably give me more options to play with.

The reason I dig these stuff is to counter the limitations of my rig. I mean, I can't get my stuff to run more than 4.8 at the moment so, RAM thingy will be able to help me gain some boost. Just very tiring to do as this requires a lot of testing and reboots that is probably harder than finding the sweet spot for the CPU.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> Just very tiring to do as this requires a lot of testing and reboots that is probably harder than finding the sweet spot for the CPU.


Yeah it is. And you have drive strength and other variables too.

I found this interesting excerpt recently at an overclocker.com ram review:
Quote:


> It's not quite as intense as the R.S.T. Pro; but for in-OS testing, we chose HyperPi using all eight CPU threads. If you don't have a R.S.T. Pro memory tester, this is the next best thing. For the vast majority of people, it's the only utility you need for checking memory stability. No problems encountered here as the HyperX Fury kit flew right through the benchmark.


http://www.overclockers.com/kingston-hyperx-fury-ddr3-1866-2x4gb-memory-kit-review

A 32M run of Hyper PI is a lot quicker than a memtest pass.


----------



## carloyz250f

if i change my psu should i redo my overclock?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> if i change my psu should i redo my overclock?


nope


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> nope


Thank you so much sir.. Hehe.


----------



## rollobollo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I've been digging a lot info on RAM Timings but never even thought AIDA could display them. Hmmm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I'm gonna try that one.
> 
> Thanks mate!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the same note, I think I getting the heck of setting RAM Timings on this board now. The info above will probably give me more options to play with.
> 
> The reason I dig these stuff is to counter the limitations of my rig. I mean, I can't get my stuff to run more than 4.8 at the moment so, RAM thingy will be able to help me gain some boost. Just very tiring to do as this requires a lot of testing and reboots that is probably harder than finding the sweet spot for the CPU.


Yeah aida64 has a lot of *hidden* features, I probably still don't know about half of them and I have been using it for over a year now.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> How did you come to this conclusion, because if you were using their *software as in ASUS AI Suite II* it spits out random temp numbers on all things, it is VERY buggy*. if that is how you came to this conclusion this is the most likely scenario when they receive your board. They will stick in one stick of ram listed on their DRAM QVL list, and if it posts, send it right back, I know you probably like their software (IF that is how you came to this conclusion, but I call it bloatware, personal conclusion of course) and I would never trust ASUS AI Suite II. If this is the scenario, you basically sent them a good board for no reason at all other than some buggy piece of code that I heard was written by..well never mind, I am not here to say negative things, I do after all use their Asus Sabertooth 990fx R2.0 and their Asus GTX780-DC2OC-3GD5 and love them both. Perhaps next time you have such an issue you can contact one of us, even me if you would like, I will set my settings to allow IMs and add you as a friend as I can see you need some help and I am willing to offer it to you. If that is not the case, and you used something like a Unit-T M8990G with a thermocouple attached and you actually took the real temp of the PCIe-2 and it indeed was going bonkers then consider this post null and I will try to delete it. I apologize if I came of harsh, but I came across a few people that were ready to RMA because of ASUS AI Suite telling them their CPU temp was 81823838 C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not even kidding.


Here's what the tech at Asus emailed to me about what was fixed. I have no idea what it means!

ASUS CASEID=RWTM20140416065153327-550 Please click here if you wish to reply this mail!

this is what i was able to pull from the case for a description of what was fixed/replaced,

C.S RD990 (A21) FCBGA692


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> I love Aida64 <3 especially with my Logitech G19, pure magic. Also I am surprised no one here has mentioned OCCT for stress testing, that is one piece of *tough* stress testing software. It really gets those gears going, not to mention it spits out a nice report in .txt style made up of every part tested, such as each cpu core, nb, ram, etc etc, I have included a pic of the results it spits out and a pic of what OCCT looks like. For those interested here is a link to OCCT http://www.ocbase.com/ and I am not affiliated with them in any way shape or form


because occt is weak imo
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Also I am surprised no one here has mentioned OCCT for stress testing,
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty much everyone here knows about OCCT, but prime95 small FFTs will get the cpu hotter.
Click to expand...

plus it works much harder
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> most say add the three and subtract 3
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I've noticed the sticker on my RAM is 9-9-9-24 - even though it is currently running @ 11-11-11-28. I don't know anything about getting this RAM to run at it's intended 9-9-9-24.
Click to expand...

set volts and timings by hand


----------



## Minotaurtoo

mine said 9-9-9-24.... set it manually... wondering if it would work at tighter timings and what the side effects could be..... hmm...


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> mine said 9-9-9-24.... set it manually... wondering if it would work at tighter timings and what the side effects could be..... hmm..


For the same speed, youll most likely have to up the vdimm. Of course you could go lower speed and have tighter timings. Look at the SPD tab in cpu-z. What you want to try for is the highest read write copy mb/s and low latency as shown in programs like memtest.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> mine said 9-9-9-24.... set it manually... wondering if it would work at tighter timings and what the side effects could be..... hmm...


Some RAMs could. I used to run my RAM on my UD3 at 2133 with the same timings as with it's stock of 1866 albeit some secondary and tertiary timings altered. And yeah, a little bit of voltage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> For the same speed, youll most likely have to up the vdimm. Of course you could go lower speed and have tighter timings. Look at the SPD tab in cpu-z. What you want to try for is the highest read write copy mb/s and low latency as shown in programs like memtest.


Never thought memtest could give you a clear picture of those readings. AIDA64 will.

Read/Write/Copy speeds would depend on your RAM Speed and CPU speed as well. Latency will depend on your timings and if they're stable.


----------



## rollobollo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> because occt is weak imo
> plus it works much harder
> set volts and timings by hand


I noticed that any 1.5V 1600mhz DDR3 CL9 ram I put into the Saber-meow-kitty if set to _AUTO_ will run @ 1.48V. I have come to the conclusion that using a manual setting of 1.51500V will keep it at 1.5000~1.1510 > I think this is acceptable, if anyone disagrees please let me know because that is how I have it set and would hate to *blow it*, although when doing extreme OC I did push a dual stick of Mushkin Enhanced Blackline (997069) PC3-12800 9-9-9-24 1.5V close to 1.8V, I *thought* they were fried, but it turns out that Saberkitty simply does not like these sticks, as I ran them in another computer overnight using memtest86 and there were zero errors. And I really do miss that ram as I got them on sale







They are one step down from the top shelf Mushkin Redline and I was getting *FANTASTIC* scores with them on my old GA970a-ud3 with a FX-6100 and I ran them in a 8-8-8-24 timing configuration without a hitch. I miss that build *tear*. In the Saberkitty ram list, Mushkin is hardly mentioned, maybe they will be supported one day, I can't wait, for now I had to purchase a set of BallisticX ram DIMM, which are on par with the Mushkins, but you just can't beat that Mushkin flavor of mmmmm *tear* and yeah, I am stuck with 9-9-9-24. If anyone knows of set of 2x8 Mushkin Redline that will work with the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 I would LOVE to know.


----------



## rollobollo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Pretty much everyone here knows about OCCT, but prime95 small FFTs will get the cpu hotter.


In that case I apologize to the forum for making an assumption, but to my defense there is a plethora of posts and one guy can only go through so many posts in one day. I just did not see it posted anywhere, but that does not mean I should have insinuated that the forum wasn't aware of it. It was my mistake and I am owning up to it. Again, I sincerely apologize to you guys, after all....the URL says it all. I will think more before my fingers touch the keyboard, this is the first true overclocking community I have joined so yes, I will make mistakes but I will correct them right away and never make them again.







I am in my 30s and I am starting to think before I rage.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Pretty much everyone here knows about OCCT, but prime95 small FFTs will get the cpu hotter.
> 
> 
> 
> In that case I apologize to the forum for making an assumption, but to my defense there is a plethora of posts and one guy can only go through so many posts in one day. I just did not see it posted anywhere, but that does not mean I should have insinuated that the forum wasn't aware of it. It was my mistake and I am owning up to it. Again, I sincerely apologize to you guys, after all....the URL says it all. I will think more before my fingers touch the keyboard, this is the first true overclocking community I have joined so yes, I will make mistakes but I will correct them right away and never make them again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am in my 30s and I am starting to think before I rage.
Click to expand...

meh no need to worry over such small things do what you think is best and be happy all we have is opinions ! if you like it and you have good experiences then use it !

as to the ram that is interesting, on my saberkitty is the one board i never had to overvolt my ram, i do on my CVFz and UD7


----------



## rollobollo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> meh no need to worry over such small things do what you think is best and be happy all we have is opinions ! if you like it and you have good experiences then use it !
> 
> as to the ram that is interesting, on my saberkitty is the one board i never had to overvolt my ram, i do on my CVFz and UD7


Mushkin eats those volts up like Super Mario eats his 1up Mushrooms, kidding aside, it really does, especially when OCing. On my old GA970a-ud3 mobo I was able to run those mushkins close to 1800mhz oced, but I had to spike up the volts to around 1.7 for stability. Mushkin Ram is what I have always used, I trust a company who has been around since 1994 if I am not mistaken. Their RMA is a breeze as well, they send new sticks, don't even bother with back-n-forth emails with endless questions about fruit flies and unicorns







I just don't think Saberkitty likes them, simply put. First board not to accept Mushkin ram either. Sad this day is.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> meh no need to worry over such small things do what you think is best and be happy all we have is opinions ! if you like it and you have good experiences then use it !
> 
> as to the ram that is interesting, on my saberkitty is the one board i never had to overvolt my ram, i do on my CVFz and UD7
> 
> 
> 
> Mushkin eats those volts up like Super Mario eats his 1up Mushrooms, kidding aside, it really does, especially when OCing. On my old GA970a-ud3 mobo I was able to run those mushkins close to 1800mhz oced, but I had to spike up the volts to around 1.7 for stability. Mushkin Ram is what I have always used, I trust a company who has been around since 1994 if I am not mistaken. Their RMA is a breeze as well, they send new sticks, don't even bother with back-n-forth emails with endless questions about fruit flies and unicorns
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just don't think Saberkitty likes them, simply put. First board not to accept Mushkin ram either. Sad this day is.
Click to expand...

you do realize almost all ram can take high volts ( ddr3 ) jedec specs are (IIRC the exact number ) 1.975v before immediate damage to ram, they dont have to function, but they do have to be able to take it


----------



## rollobollo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you do realize almost all ram can take high volts ( ddr3 ) jedec specs are (IIRC the exact number ) 1.975v before immediate damage to ram, they dont have to function, but they do have to be able to take it


I am very cautious, especially when I paid nearly 200 dollars for 2 little pieces of metal. But you live, you learn, thank you for your tips, I seriously mean that. Just by talking with you I have acquired quite a few new computer related ideas, information etc etc.


----------



## Noviets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> that's odd my friend has his 8350 at 5.1GHz with 1.58V and with a fan his tops out at 53C you may want to rethink your case's airflow


53C under load at 1.58v with air? I find that increcibly hard to believe..

I'm at 5ghz @ 1.452v and my cores hit 67C with certain games.. and I'm using the Water 2.0 Pro in push+pull


----------



## rollobollo

I am getting a blank page for Saberkitty support page @ https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R20/#support , the same with http://www.asus.com/Graphics_Cards/GTX780DC2OC3GD5/ . I have tried proxy and VPN to no success. I am not panicking, perhaps they are upgrading their server, but has anything like this happened to anyone here before?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> 53C under load at 1.58v with air? I find that increcibly hard to believe..
> 
> I'm at 5ghz @ 1.452v and my cores hit 67C with certain games.. and I'm using the Water 2.0 Pro in push+pull


A fellow Thermaltake 2.0 pro user, did you by any chance swap out the fans that came with the original, you know those black plastic with white blades inside? I swapped them out for a pair of Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition Twin Pack Fan (CO-9050008-WW) and I am getting much better temperatures, but a lot more cans of air are going, I am seriously considering buying a small air compressor as I run these at full 2350 rpm nonstop, since I run the fans straight of the PSU. To honor Thermaltake color choice, I chose the white rings







They match the same 4 fans I have blowing on the side door, same fans of course, these are very quiet, but the door fans I run at 7v using a case fan control module.


----------



## Noviets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> I am getting a blank page for Saberkitty support page @ https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R20/#support , the same with http://www.asus.com/Graphics_Cards/GTX780DC2OC3GD5/ . I have tried proxy and VPN to no success. I am not panicking, perhaps they are upgrading their server, but has anything like this happened to anyone here before?
> A fellow Thermaltake 2.0 pro user, did you by any chance swap out the fans that came with the original, you know those black plastic with white blades inside? I swapped them out for a pair of Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition Twin Pack Fan (CO-9050008-WW) and I am getting much better temperatures, but a lot more cans of air are going, I am seriously considering buying a small air compressor as I run these at full 2350 rpm nonstop, since I run the fans straight of the PSU. To honor Thermaltake color choice, I chose the white rings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They match the same 4 fans I have blowing on the side door, same fans of course, these are very quiet, but the door fans I run at 7v using a case fan control module.


Stock fans that came with the cooler, they're not actually that bad in terms of static pressure, they just have some volume to them at high RPM, still, I find it have to understand how air can knock off 15C from my temps at a much higher voltage..

Also, both of those sites are working fine for me, try another browser perhaps, or clear your cache?


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> 53C under load at 1.58v with air? I find that increcibly hard to believe..
> 
> I'm at 5ghz @ 1.452v and my cores hit 67C with certain games.. and I'm using the Water 2.0 Pro in push+pull


i was referring to the MOSFETS not the Cores, he says his cores hit 72-75C under prime and he has an H100


----------



## rollobollo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Stock fans that came with the cooler, they're not actually that bad in terms of static pressure, they just have some volume to them at high RPM, still, I find it have to understand how air can knock off 15C from my temps at a much higher voltage..
> 
> Also, both of those sites are working fine for me, try another browser perhaps, or clear your cache?


My friend in the US is also having same issue as me, gets a clear white page. I flushed DNS even reset firefox and tried other browsers, could it be they are upgrading / maintenance on their servers? My friend wrote, and I quote

"Yes white page

White page on pc

On tablet it looks fine"

Update, Main ASUS page was loading slowly before now it is snappy, and the graphics card page is back to normal, kitty page is still in zzzzzzzzzzzz mode. Probably overnight updates US time zone time, it is 8am here so yeah, I get the bad end of the stick







ok everything back to normal, now I can go stare at the kitty page for no reason.


----------



## carloyz250f

my chip is only at 4.8ghz and im already in 1.50volts and only stable for only 4hrs. is this normal? what is the limit of the volts my temp is pretty good. stable for 4hrs is it good for gaming like bf4?
my settings is bus speed 240. x20.0 = 4.800..

edit. is it good to run 1.3volts on cpu/nb even if i only have 2.4ghz nb? or should i lower my cpu/nb volts abit?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> my chip is only at 4.8ghz and im already in 1.50volts and only stable for only 4hrs. is this normal? what is the limit of the volts my temp is pretty good. stable for 4hrs is it good for gaming like bf4?
> my settings is bus speed 240. x20.0 = 4.800..
> 
> edit. is it good to run 1.3volts on cpu/nb even if i only have 2.4ghz nb? or should i lower my cpu/nb volts abit?


use the lowest volts possible, cpu/nb adds alotta heat

as for max volts, watch your temps, as long as temps are in check you are good to add more volts


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> use the lowest volts possible, cpu/nb adds alotta heat
> 
> as for max volts, watch your temps, as long as temps are in check you are good to add more volts


thank you so much i will try to lower my cpu/nb volts..


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> thank you so much i will try to lower my cpu/nb volts..


He really didn't mean you to lower the CPU-NB Voltage.























Just observe your TEMPS.

Too low CPU-NB will give you instability with the FSB that you've got. But if your not that lazy, try to find the minimum voltage that you can give to keep that CPU-NB Stable.


----------



## Mega Man

yes i did, stock cpu/nb is 1.1 for most 1.2v is plenty, if not excessive


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> He really didn't mean you to lower the CPU-NB Voltage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just observe your TEMPS.
> 
> Too low CPU-NB will give you instability with the FSB that you've got. But if your not that lazy, try to find the minimum voltage that you can give to keep that CPU-NB Stable.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes i did, stock cpu/nb is 1.1 for most 1.2v is plenty, if not excessive


Oh. Thank you so much..


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes i did, stock cpu/nb is 1.1 for most 1.2v is plenty, if not excessive


He's on 2400, not stock.. Also, it may be chip dependent. Yet to be proven. But,..

Mine doesn't make any significant temperature effects giving it 1.25 or 1.35 at 2500 with same Core frequency and Core Voltage.


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> He's on 2400, not stock.. Also, it may be chip dependent. Yet to be proven. But,..
> 
> Mine doesn't make any significant temperature effects giving it 1.25 or 1.35 at 2500 with same Core frequency and Core Voltage.


im trying 1.2v cpu/nb right know. my last atemp is stable for 4hrs but i dident get any error just freeze like my monitor freeze.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> im trying 1.2v cpu/nb right know. my last atemp is stable for 4hrs but i dident get any error just freeze like my monitor freeze.


What's your stock CPU-NB Voltage if I may ask?

HMM.. Lock-ups


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes i did, stock cpu/nb is 1.1 for most 1.2v is plenty, if not excessive
> 
> 
> 
> He's on 2400, not stock.. Also, it may be chip dependent. Yet to be proven. But,..
> 
> Mine doesn't make any significant temperature effects giving it 1.25 or 1.35 at 2500 with same Core frequency and Core Voltage.
Click to expand...

99% of chips can hit 2600 on 1.2v
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> He's on 2400, not stock.. Also, it may be chip dependent. Yet to be proven. But,..
> 
> Mine doesn't make any significant temperature effects giving it 1.25 or 1.35 at 2500 with same Core frequency and Core Voltage.
> 
> 
> 
> im trying 1.2v cpu/nb right know. my last atemp is stable for 4hrs but i dident get any error just freeze like my monitor freeze.
Click to expand...

your screen froze when you last stressed or did it just freeze when you tried 1.2v ?


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> What's your stock CPU-NB Voltage if I may ask?
> 
> HMM.. Lock-ups


my stock cpu/nb volts is 1.16v what do u tink i shound try?


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 99% of chips can hit 2600 on 1.2v
> your screen froze when you last stressed or did it just freeze when you tried 1.2v ?


my last atemp is 1.2volts and my pc frez im traying the same volts on cpu/nb right now but i up 1 click on the vcore volts so im at 1.51 i think righ now.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 99% of chips can hit 2600 on 1.2v


Hmm. 99% CAN.

Demn!!! My chip must have been on the remaining 1%

That is if you are right. As there's a big difference between a Stable CPU-NB with those that can Boot at 2600 at stock voltages.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> my stock cpu/nb volts is 1.16v what do u tink i shound try?


1.16 is what? 1.2























You can try options like
1. Increasing the Vcore with a low CPU-NB or
2. Stay at your Vcore with a bump on the CPU-NB.

Your choice.

Just continue testing it so you'll find out which voltage will give you the stability + most desired Temps.


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 1.16 is what? 1.2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can try options like
> 1. Increasing the Vcore with a low CPU-NB or
> 2. Stay at your Vcore with a bump on the CPU-NB.
> 
> Your choice.
> 
> Just continue testing it so you'll find out which voltage will give you the stability + most desired Temps.


yes thank you. im trying vcore 1.51volts and i stayd on 1.2v on cpu/nb.. i will w8 if i will pass my last atemp that is only 4hrs..


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> yes thank you. im trying vcore 1.51volts and i stayd on 1.2v on cpu/nb.. i will w8 if i will pass my last atemp that is only 4hrs..


IBT AVX is faster. And will easily show you the values that will indicate stability. Plus Temps your chip produce.

Just do a double run with P95 before you sleep..


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> IBT AVX is faster. And will easily show you the values that will indicate stability. Plus Temps your chip produce.
> 
> Just do a double run with P95 before you sleep..


Ibt is intel burn in test right?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> Ibt is intel burn in test right?


YES. But with the AVX instuction that pushes the chip harder. The OLD IBT is not recommended for AMD FX IIRC.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club

Download


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> YES. But with the AVX instuction that pushes the chip harder. The OLD IBT is not recommended for AMD FX IIRC.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club
> 
> Download


thank you sir.. im having a warning! linpack binary stopped unexpectedly. is this an error on my core or only in the software?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 99% of chips can hit 2600 on 1.2v
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm. 99% CAN.
> 
> Demn!!! My chip must have been on the remaining 1%
> 
> That is if you are right. As there's a big difference between a Stable CPU-NB with those that can Boot at 2600 at stock voltages.
Click to expand...

... you really think you will win this by using petty arguments feel free.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> my stock cpu/nb volts is 1.16v what do u tink i shound try?
> 
> 
> 
> 1.16 is what? 1.2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can try options like
> 1. Increasing the Vcore with a low CPU-NB or
> 2. Stay at your Vcore with a bump on the CPU-NB.
> 
> Your choice.
> 
> Just continue testing it so you'll find out which voltage will give you the stability + most desired Temps.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 1.16 is what? 1.2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can try options like
> 1. Increasing the Vcore with a low CPU-NB or
> 2. Stay at your Vcore with a bump on the CPU-NB.
> 
> Your choice.
> 
> Just continue testing it so you'll find out which voltage will give you the stability + most desired Temps.
> 
> 
> 
> yes thank you. im trying vcore 1.51volts and i stayd on 1.2v on cpu/nb.. i will w8 if i will pass my last atemp that is only 4hrs..
Click to expand...

please post a screen shot of your voltage bios screen and your digi bios screen ( or multiple if needed )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> thank you sir.. im having a warning! linpack binary stopped unexpectedly. is this an error on my core or only in the software?


use windows snippet to post screenshots as needed fyi


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> thank you sir.. im having a warning! linpack binary stopped unexpectedly. is this an error on my core or only in the software?


Instability of sort.

Run it as Admin.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> *99% of chips can hit 2600 on 1.2v*
> your screen froze when you last stressed or did it just freeze when you tried 1.2v ?


heh mine wont even post with less than 1.35V even at stock


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ... you really think you will win this by using petty arguments feel free.
> 
> please post a screen shot of your voltage bios screen and your digi bios screen ( or multiple if needed )
> use windows snippet to post screenshots as needed fyi










Im sory i tough my cpu/nb voltage is at 1.2v when i stable on 4hrs actually its 1.25v sory again. Please help me..


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im sory i tough my cpu/nb voltage is at 1.2v when i stable on 4hrs actually its 1.25v sory again. Please help me..


you can hit F12 in the UEFI and take a screenshot


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> you can hit F12 in the UEFI and take a screenshot


oh.. thank you. i dont know that.. nxtime i will f12..


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ... you really think you will win this by using petty arguments feel free.


Here we are again:









It's not a petty argument. It is an experience. And I am not telling it's true for the rest of FX users out there. I'm saying mine can't clear without a bump from stock. Is that a petty argument? If it is, FEEL FREE









And isn't it 1.188 is already 1.2? That doesn't need further arguments.

However, saying this


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 99% of chips can hit 2600 on 1.2v






You are stating a false claim yourself. How many FX chips have you owned and tested? 10? 100?
How many of them cleared 2600 CPU-NB without bumping them to more than 1.2 Volts?

Now do you have an idea how many FX has been sold all over the world? You get the idea right? Even if you cleared 2600 CPU-NB at 1.2 on everything you have got, what is the percentage of what you have owned and tested to those who were sold around the world?
I'm guessing







1%

You are definitely not speaking for 99% of the FX chips users.

Now who's telling the right numbers?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im sory i tough my cpu/nb voltage is at 1.2v when i stable on 4hrs actually its 1.25v sory again. Please help me..


Use the screen capture feature in the BIOS. You will need a USB Stick formatted as FAT32 to do it.

Plug the USB, Reboot to the BIOS, hit f12 to capture the screen.

No need to be sorry. Everybody makes mistakes.


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Use the screen capture feature in the BIOS. You will need a USB Stick formatted as FAT32 to do it.
> 
> Plug the USB, Reboot to the BIOS, hit f12 to capture the screen.
> 
> No need to be sorry. Everybody makes mistakes.


Thank you for the info. Did my pictures did it or should i retak it with screen capture?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> Thank you for the info. Did my pictures did it or should i retak it with screen capture?


Screenies will be better.,.. LOL

My internet connection gets tired of loading a big image from a camera.


----------



## carloyz250f

this is the settings that i set up that get stable on prime95 for 4hrs then freeze..


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this is the settings that i set up that get stable on prime95 for 4hrs then freeze..


Anything stopping you from increasing the Vcore?

You can experiment Which Voltage you should increase that will give you stability and less temps. And if CPU-NB Voltage will give you more heat.
That's just a 3-way testing with IBT AVX. Capture the screen on each test so you will have a clear note.

Edit:

you see that Current CPU Speed and Target CPU Speed on the first image?

I'm wondering what's causing that TBH. Even if I dial in 4.8 It will be more than 4.85 in Windows. Too much FSB Overshoot on this board.


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Anything stopping you from increasing the Vcore?
> 
> You can experiment Which Voltage you should increase that will give you stability and less temps. And if CPU-NB Voltage will give you more heat.
> That's just a 3-way testing with IBT AVX. Capture the screen on each test so you will have a clear note.


i notice there is a stress level on ibt what level should i test it?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> i notice there is a stress level on ibt what level should i test it?


10 runs of IBT AVX High will do for testing. But they suggest 10 runs of maximum settings for long term stability.

You are looking at the Value +3 on each result.

Like this 

Not my result as I am not on my computer right now..


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this is the settings that i set up that get stable on prime95 for 4hrs then freeze..


try changing the CPU Power Phase Control to extreme.


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 10 runs of IBT AVX High will do for testing. But they suggest 10 runs of maximum settings for long term stability.
> 
> You are looking at the Value +3 on each result.
> 
> Like this
> 
> Not my result as I am not on my computer right now..


it gave me an warning about my cooling but my core temp is only 57c and my socket temp is 60c..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> try changing the CPU Power Phase Control to extreme.


yes thank you im trying it righ now..


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> it gave me an warning about my cooling but my core temp is only 57c and my socket temp is 60c..


Unstable.. Up the Core Voltage


----------



## carloyz250f

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> try changing the CPU Power Phase Control to extreme.


I think it dident work for me. Should i keep the extreme power phase or i will get it back to standard?


----------



## carloyz250f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Unstable.. Up the Core Voltage


is this means that im stable? or should i do more test on prime?

edit. when stresstesting on level high i always have a linpack error but on maximum i was stable..


----------



## SwishaMane

What should I do now that Asus RMA sent me my same board back and it still doesnt work? Makes me think it wasnt the board at all... Video card works, RAM works. Only thing I can't test is CPU. But it was a barely pushed fx8350. Never had a cpu just up and die before. That would be unsettling.


----------



## rollobollo

this is the settings that i set up that get stable on prime95 for 4hrs then freeze..







[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is *not* what I want you to do but just consider changing a few things that might help, and please, don't aim for anywhere near 5 until you get the current stable, its just that I noticed a few things I had a little different than yours. So here is my take.
> 
> For my 5.4 run (your pic1) I left both *Spread Spectrum* Disabled, I changed PCI Freq to 100, that is what it's supposed to be anyway used a 272x20 Fsb X multi (so your multi is a good choice -20, I believe I used a higher cpu/nb, but for your purpose it is fine the way it is @ 1.25. For ram I lowered it to 14474mhz and loosened the timings to 11-11-11-24 ( I was using ddr3 1600 Muhkin Enhanced Blackline CL9 ) My Ht link was also 2442 ( I know you get weird numbers as you play with FSB so try to aim for perfect balance) I see you have a nice 2400/2400 going. I know I may get yelled at for this, but you may want to up the NB voltage just a tad. I was having stability issues until I raised it, yes it did change color, but remember, I was going for 5.4, so please if you must go up 1 step at a time!!!! I also had to raise the ram voltage pretty darn high, also changed color, but again, for your purpose you may want to go up 1 step and retest each time.
> 
> Onto your Pic 2. I used Extreme for CPU LLC, and high for CPU/NB I believe it turns red, but for your purpose 130/130% looks good. The rest I used like you have except for CPU Power Phase Control, I set to highest possible and DRAM Current Capability which I set to 300%, but this was way back in February so I may be mistaken.
> 
> The rest looks same as I had, I guess it really comes down to looking at temps after you make changes, usually adding a little more juice to your CPU Manual Voltage, F10 then boot into bios for a little while and observe the changes in temps. Remember, FX Chips are known to spike up up to 200~mhz-300mhz once booted into Windows, have to take that into account. But before you boot straight into Windows, boot into bios and observe the temps in the Monitor section, if they look high there, they will only go up once in windows. It is also a good idea to take into account your ambient room temperature, even water cooling depends on the rads, and the liquid inside can't go have a lower temperature than what is in the room unless you would put it inside a refrigerator, bur then you would need longer hoses, more pumps etc etc, and it would just be a major headache (condensation etc etc). I suppose you can take some dry ice now this is *only* if you have rads *OUTSIDE* your computer, we don't want any moisture so filter out any possible moisture but keep the cooling properties, perhaps use copper tubing around the rad which leads to a dry ice container. , this may lower temp of the rad itself. I hope I have helped a little, if not then omit my post as I am not a professional as most of these other guys are.


----------



## Falmod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> It's the tag on the 24 pin power connector


Sorry its been a while things have been VERY hectic to say the least. Will be back home on sunday and will take a look then. Thanks a lot for this


----------



## rollobollo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> this is the settings that i set up that get stable on prime95 for 4hrs then freeze..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> What should I do now that Asus RMA sent me my same board back and it still doesnt work? Makes me think it wasnt the board at all... Video card works, RAM works. Only thing I can't test is CPU. But it was a barely pushed fx8350. Never had a cpu just up and die before. That would be unsettling.


I have said before, they do a very simple diagnostic test, they have a stick of ram approved Sabertooth_990FX_R20-Memory-QVL and they see if the board can post, if it posts, they may repeat the test several times, and they call it quits and send the board back. Now if it does not post, it goes onto repair stage 2. I am really sorry about your situation







I had an issue with my Asus GTX780-DC2OC-3GD5 and the bios, I basically installed the wrong *volt unlocking bios on accident* the card worked and all, but there were obvious issues. I was lucky enough, somehow...no clue how, to get in touch with someone who knew what they were doing. This person sent me a piece of software which basically tells you every bit nook and cranny about your Asus graphics card, and you send the info back, then I was sent back a nvflash with the proper AS03_AP.rom file, he was even nice enough to include a batch file to automate the process. I mean I was blown away at how fast this was all done. I sent the email on day 1, within 24 hours had the software in hand, sent back results the same day, within another 24 hours I had my original bios in hand ( I asked for the original bios, as the new *quiet bios* just isn't my cup of tea. I don't need the fans spinning THAT low. I can't hear the card at fan speed 37%, what is the point of it going to mid 20s if I recall ( I did try it). It seems with Asus return policy, it is a hit or miss, if your board can't post, then it will actually get more care, at least that is what I think, but I am just one anonymous poster so take my advice or leave it. Either way, I wish you the best of luck.


----------



## rollobollo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> I have said before, they do a very simple diagnostic test, they have a stick of ram approved Sabertooth_990FX_R20-Memory-QVL and they see if the board can post, if it posts, they may repeat the test several times, and they call it quits and send the board back. Now if it does not post, it goes onto repair stage 2. I am really sorry about your situation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had an issue with my Asus GTX780-DC2OC-3GD5 and the bios, I basically installed the wrong *volt unlocking bios on accident* the card worked and all, but there were obvious issues. I was lucky enough, somehow...no clue how, to get in touch with someone who knew what they were doing. This person sent me a piece of software which basically tells you every bit nook and cranny about your Asus graphics card, and you send the info back, then I was sent back a nvflash with the proper AS03_AP.rom file, he was even nice enough to include a batch file to automate the process. I mean I was blown away at how fast this was all done. I sent the email on day 1, within 24 hours had the software in hand, sent back results the same day, within another 24 hours I had my original bios in hand ( I asked for the original bios, as the new *quiet bios* just isn't my cup of tea. I don't need the fans spinning THAT low. I can't hear the card at fan speed 37%, what is the point of it going to mid 20s if I recall ( I did try it). It seems with Asus return policy, it is a hit or miss, if your board can't post, then it will actually get more care, at least that is what I think, but I am just one anonymous poster so take my advice or leave it. Either way, I wish you the best of luck.


I just thought of something, is your RAM on their approved list? I had same problems with Mushkin Enhanced Blackline, I thought the motherboard or CPU (bent pin) or something was jacked up, but it turns out, the board simply did not accept the ram. Check your ram compatibility.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> this is the settings that i set up that get stable on prime95 for 4hrs then freeze..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> What should I do now that Asus RMA sent me my same board back and it still doesnt work? Makes me think it wasnt the board at all... Video card works, RAM works. Only thing I can't test is CPU. But it was a barely pushed fx8350. Never had a cpu just up and die before. That would be unsettling.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have said before, they do a very simple diagnostic test, they have a stick of ram approved Sabertooth_990FX_R20-Memory-QVL and they see if the board can post, if it posts, they may repeat the test several times, and they call it quits and send the board back. Now if it does not post, it goes onto repair stage 2. I am really sorry about your situation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had an issue with my Asus GTX780-DC2OC-3GD5 and the bios, I basically installed the wrong *volt unlocking bios on accident* the card worked and all, but there were obvious issues. I was lucky enough, somehow...no clue how, to get in touch with someone who knew what they were doing. This person sent me a piece of software which basically tells you every bit nook and cranny about your Asus graphics card, and you send the info back, then I was sent back a nvflash with the proper AS03_AP.rom file, he was even nice enough to include a batch file to automate the process. I mean I was blown away at how fast this was all done. I sent the email on day 1, within 24 hours had the software in hand, sent back results the same day, within another 24 hours I had my original bios in hand ( I asked for the original bios, as the new *quiet bios* just isn't my cup of tea. I don't need the fans spinning THAT low. I can't hear the card at fan speed 37%, what is the point of it going to mid 20s if I recall ( I did try it). It seems with Asus return policy, it is a hit or miss, if your board can't post, then it will actually get more care, at least that is what I think, but I am just one anonymous poster so take my advice or leave it. Either way, I wish you the best of luck.
Click to expand...

Did you try and clear the cmos and remove the battery and use the right jumper? Sometimes it can help... Good luck!


----------



## Mega Man

my laptop died last night sorry。 as i am in china it took me a long time to try and (unsucessfully) fix it. with that said i am on tablet so no spoilers
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> my stock cpu/nb volts is 1.16v what do u tink i shound try?
> 
> 
> 
> 1.16 is what? 1.2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can try options like
> 1. Increasing the Vcore with a low CPU-NB or
> 2. Stay at your Vcore with a bump on the CPU-NB.
> 
> Your choice.
> 
> Just continue testing it so you'll find out which voltage will give you the stability + most desired Temps.
Click to expand...

this is the pettiness. 1.16is .04v far away from 1.2which in the world of cpus is alot where 0.05v can make or break you (or even less). esp when it can add the most heat
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ... you really think you will win this by using petty arguments feel free.
> 
> please post a screen shot of your voltage bios screen and your digi bios screen ( or multiple if needed )
> use windows snippet to post screenshots as needed fyi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im sory i tough my cpu/nb voltage is at 1.2v when i stable on 4hrs actually its 1.25v sory again. Please help me..
Click to expand...

my first question is why are you fsb ocing. the volts will stay the same. but you should learn with just multi.

with that said. you need to keep pcieat 100 no matter what until you are more experianced

bump nb volts (not cpu\nb to 1.2-1.25)

IF YOU HAVE A FAN ON YOUR VRM HEATSINKS!!! (if not get one at these ocs they are needed)

cpu power phase control to extreme
cpu power responce control and cpu\nb set to whatever is maximum. (i dont remember atm somone will have to help. as i am getting ready for a funeral i dont have time sorry)

cpu power duty to current control

you dont need hpc enabled when apm is disabled.

lastly that pic where you have ibt running is not ibt avx. ibtavx pushes newer cpus much harder and you may not be stable.

everything else looks ok. but again untill you feel comfortable ocing your cpu. and you know your cpu. i highly recommend not fsb ocing and just use the multi
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this is the settings that i set up that get stable on prime95 for 4hrs then freeze..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this is the settings that i set up that get stable on prime95 for 4hrs then freeze..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this is the settings that i set up that get stable on prime95 for 4hrs then freeze..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This is *not* what I want you to do but just consider changing a few things that might help, and please, don't aim for anywhere near 5 until you get the current stable, its just that I noticed a few things I had a little different than yours. So here is my take.
> 
> For my 5.4 run (your pic1) I left both *Spread Spectrum* Disabled, I changed PCI Freq to 100, that is what it's supposed to be anyway used a 272x20 Fsb X multi (so your multi is a good choice -20, I believe I used a higher cpu/nb, but for your purpose it is fine the way it is @ 1.25. For ram I lowered it to 14474mhz and loosened the timings to 11-11-11-24 ( I was using ddr3 1600 Muhkin Enhanced Blackline CL9 ) My Ht link was also 2442 ( I know you get weird numbers as you play with FSB so try to aim for perfect balance) I see you have a nice 2400/2400 going. I know I may get yelled at for this, but you may want to up the NB voltage just a tad. I was having stability issues until I raised it, yes it did change color, but remember, I was going for 5.4, so please if you must go up 1 step at a time!!!! I also had to raise the ram voltage pretty darn high, also changed color, but again, for your purpose you may want to go up 1 step and retest each time.
> 
> Onto your Pic 2. I used Extreme for CPU LLC, and high for CPU/NB I believe it turns red, but for your purpose 130/130% looks good. The rest I used like you have except for CPU Power Phase Control, I set to highest possible and DRAM Current Capability which I set to 300%, but this was way back in February so I may be mistaken.
> 
> The rest looks same as I had, I guess it really comes down to looking at temps after you make changes, usually adding a little more juice to your CPU Manual Voltage, F10 then boot into bios for a little while and observe the changes in temps. Remember, FX Chips are known to spike up up to 200~mhz-300mhz once booted into Windows, have to take that into account. But before you boot straight into Windows, boot into bios and observe the temps in the Monitor section, if they look high there, they will only go up once in windows. It is also a good idea to take into account your ambient room temperature, even water cooling depends on the rads, and the liquid inside can't go have a lower temperature than what is in the room unless you would put it inside a refrigerator, bur then you would need longer hoses, more pumps etc etc, and it would just be a major headache (condensation etc etc). I suppose you can take some ice cubes, and put them in a zipper gladlock bag and put them where the rads take in air, now this is *only* if you have rads *OUTSIDE* your computer and you would put a cloth to catch any water droplets to account for condensation, this may lower the air temp being sucked in. I hope I have helped a little, if not then omit my post as I am not a professional as most of these other guys are.
Click to expand...

not at all i would not try yell at anyone for helping. however he just argues with me. he wont even try in the 83xx thread however. in which he would be told he is wrong. whhat he fails to understamd is i have been here alot longer. pushed several chips much farther then most and proved it. and help alot more people with ocing 83xx chips sucessfully. and across several boards (esp as i own 4 different boards)

as to benching we gotta teach you to do a icebox chiller!


----------



## philhalo66

My friend and i have been wondering what are the chances of getting 3000MHz stable on the CPU-NB/NB?


----------



## SwishaMane

Are you kidding me? OF course I cleared cmos and removed battery, etc etc... New cpu didnt help, different video card, nothing... One stick of RAM, nothing. ugh

And there should only be one stage of an RMA... If its broke fix it. If it cant be fixed, replace.

They just took it out of box and put in another. Its just as dead as before, just went on a $30 trip around Indiana between 20 sets of hands. w00t w00t


----------



## rollobollo

as to benching we gotta teach you to do a icebox chiller![/quote]

Something like a Hailea HC-500A Water Chiller ?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Are you kidding me? OF course I cleared cmos and removed battery, etc etc... New cpu didnt help, different video card, nothing... One stick of RAM, nothing. ugh
> 
> And there should only be one stage of an RMA... If its broke fix it. If it cant be fixed, replace.
> 
> They just took it out of box and put in another. Its just as dead as before, just went on a $30 trip around Indiana between 20 sets of hands. w00t w00t


Try flash an older bios?


----------



## SwishaMane

So I got bored and fiddled with my rig some more. No boot for the life of it. Get this, REMOVED BIOS CHIP and re-installed,a nd now shes booting. With my ES and 1 stick of 4GB 1866 being run at DDR800, lol. But its booting.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> thank you sir.. im having a warning! linpack binary stopped unexpectedly. is this an error on my core or only in the software?


I assume you are using windows 8, I had the same problem... run the compatibility assistant (or just put it in win 7 compatibility) and the run as admin... should work then. some say its instablity, but it isn't.. its just a problem with windows... remember, any negative numbers in the output means instability, and the normal answers I see are 3.xxxx e002 I believe... anyway... even if it gives that unexpected stop error the output column can give you a clue to your stability.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> So I got bored and fiddled with my rig some more. No boot for the life of it. Get this, REMOVED BIOS CHIP and re-installed,a nd now shes booting. With my ES and 1 stick of 4GB 1866 being run at DDR800, lol. But its booting.


Nice, maybe it's because the ES? I wrote you a PM. Please take your time to read it. Thanks a lot!


----------



## rollobollo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carloyz250f*
> 
> 
> is this means that im stable? or should i do more test on prime?
> 
> edit. when stresstesting on level high i always have a linpack error but on maximum i was stable..


"On max stable" might mean CPU LLC and CPU/NB doing their thing to keep V steady, but on high it fluctuates. Just a guess.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Nice, maybe it's because the ES? I wrote you a PM. Please take your time to read it. Thanks a lot!


At first it wasnt booting with ES either, so its not the chip that made it worked. Im really starting to think I have a bad dimm, and I think I have isolated at least 2 that are good. So i got 8GB RAM. Im gonna do some further testing before I dig into switching CPUs. Wasting all my paste... lol


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> My friend and i have been wondering what are the chances of getting 3000MHz stable on the CPU-NB/NB?


Pretty low. I have seen 2800 stable (not my chip) and I have benched at 3000 but never stable. And when it did pass the bench it bsod shortly after. And this is with 1.6v on cpu/nb.

I also now have a reviewers chip. I need to try and push this one. Atm I have
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> as to benching we gotta teach you to do a icebox chiller!


Something like a Hailea HC-500A Water Chiller ?[/quote]
That is really expensive. Icebox chiller I'd when you take a rad (no fans) drop it in a ice box full of ice and water. For benching. Have to worry about condensation
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> So I got bored and fiddled with my rig some more. No boot for the life of it. Get this, REMOVED BIOS CHIP and re-installed,a nd now shes booting. With my ES and 1 stick of 4GB 1866 being run at DDR800, lol. But its booting.


Could of just been poor contact glad it is fixed now


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> *Pretty low. I have seen 2800 stable (not my chip) and I have benched at 3000 but never stable. And when it did pass the bench it bsod shortly after. And this is with 1.6v on cpu/nb.*
> 
> I also now have a reviewers chip. I need to try and push this one. Atm I have
> Something like a Hailea HC-500A Water Chiller ?
> That is really expensive. Icebox chiller I'd when you take a rad (no fans) drop it in a ice box full of ice and water. For benching. Have to worry about condensation
> Could of just been poor contact glad it is fixed now


Yeah i figured as much


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> my laptop died last night sorry。 as i am in china it took me a long time to try and (unsucessfully) fix it. with that said i am on tablet so no spoilers
> this is the pettiness. 1.16is .04v far away from 1.2which in the world of cpus is alot where 0.05v can make or break you (or even less). esp when it can add the most heat


Okay point granted. However, as I have mentioned, I got mine higher than 1.35 with no significant change in temperature compared to using just the multi. And, at 2500 CPU-NB, my system would crash anything with lower than 1.3 Volts at 4.8MHz. Should I recommend that if I am not having issues to that known part? NO

Also, pettiness is saying 99% of chips can do 2600 at stock CPU-NB Voltage. Why don't you make a poll to involve everyone on this thread as well as the main Vishera 83XX thread to find out.

Another thing that I never recommended him to go that high on the CPU-NB Voltage. I mentioned repeatedly to observe his temps. Switching from both process. Have I been over-assuming?















Quote:


> my first question is why are you fsb ocing. the volts will stay the same. but you should learn with just multi.
> 
> with that said. you need to keep pcieat 100 no matter what until you are more experianced
> 
> bump nb volts (not cpu\nb to 1.2-1.25)
> 
> IF YOU HAVE A FAN ON YOUR VRM HEATSINKS!!! (if not get one at these ocs they are needed)
> 
> cpu power phase control to extreme
> cpu power responce control and cpu\nb set to whatever is maximum. (i dont remember atm somone will have to help. as i am getting ready for a funeral i dont have time sorry)
> 
> cpu power duty to current control
> 
> you dont need hpc enabled when apm is disabled.
> 
> lastly that pic where you have ibt running is not ibt avx. ibtavx pushes newer cpus much harder and you may not be stable.
> 
> everything else looks ok. but again untill you feel comfortable ocing your cpu. and you know your cpu.
> 
> i highly recommend not fsb ocing and just use the multi


There are things in this field that doesn't need strict guidelines. FSB OC vs. Multi only is a choice of the OC'er. Not yours. As to recommendation, you have your techniques that yield you the most acceptable results. That's it. The possibilities in this chips are endless. Some can do very well using just the multi. Others can't. I am one of those who owns a weird chip. The hech can't even be stable at 4.7 using the multi with everything left at stock. RAM, CPU-NB, HT link, you name it except the voltages.

But doing FSB OC, I was able to break higher clocks up to the limit of my cooler. Is that bad? No.

Take your time to listen to others as not everyone got the same chip as yours.

No one would be comfortable with their chips if you'll not let them do what they want to learn.

They are asking questions not just because they don't the answer but to get opinions as well.
Quote:


> not at all i would not try yell at anyone for helping. however he just argues with me. he wont even try in the 83xx thread however. in which he would be told he is wrong. whhat he fails to understamd is i have been here alot longer. pushed several chips much farther then most and proved it. and help alot more people with ocing 83xx chips sucessfully. and across several boards (esp as i own 4 different boards)


Just because you do, doesn't mean you know them all.

And quote, I never argued. I am saying my own experience. If that is already an argument, then I don't know what this is.

So to stop all these, you say what you wanna say, people has the right to listen and not to listen to any advice. But the point is, I am trying to help. If that doesn't coincide with your idea, why don't you just reply on your own without quoting someone telling them they are wrong?

And yeah, P.S. I have never said anything bad on any of your recommendation. You can always look back to the start of your so-called argument.


----------



## Mega Man

Some of the things you say remind me of another person.

With that said. I never said for him not to fsb oc. I said he needs to learn to swim in the shallow end before jumping into the deep end. I then gave him guide lines on how to proceed on either method.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Some of the things you say remind me of another person.
> 
> With that said. I never said for him not to fsb oc. I said he needs to learn to swim in the shallow end before jumping into the deep end. I then gave him guide lines on how to proceed on either method.


Look man, with all the respect you deserve, there are just things you might not have experienced. But the things I said that contradict yours doesn't mean to show you, you are wrong. Those are just possibilities. No offense on anything.

Heck what, I listen to your advice as there is respect.









On the technique on teaching, I just let the kids do what they want within the control I can give. If they comes back crying for their mistakes, I make sure to let them remember not to do those thing again.
Innate to human nature is the curiousness to learn what's unknown to them. So I let them discover those things and let them decide what to do with all the guidance that I can give.


----------



## SwishaMane

Ok, so I got my rig back to normal. 8350, all 4 dimms, 16GB. And I actually got it working. I dont know how, but its running, and doing pretty good. Did freeze on me in BIOS once, but settings were reset, so w/e. So yeah, my board is barely holding on, and tomorrow morning it'll probably start acting up again on fresh boot.


----------



## rollobollo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Ok, so I got my rig back to normal. 8350, all 4 dimms, 16GB. And I actually got it working. I dont know how, but its running, and doing pretty good. Did freeze on me in BIOS once, but settings were reset, so w/e. So yeah, my board is barely holding on, and tomorrow morning it'll probably start acting up again on fresh boot.


What ram manufacturer and model are you running, you know I have heard of issues when using all 4 dimms before on the Saberkitty. But it's heresay so yeah.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> What ram manufacturer and model are you running, you know I have heard of issues when using all 4 dimms before on the Saberkitty. But it's heresay so yeah.


4x4GB Corsair Dominator Platinums. Ive had two sets of RAM on this board and no issue ever til past month and a half messing with this board, the fail RMA, and past 2 days.

Its real stable right now tho. Hasnt locked up in hours, running fast and smooth. Im just worried about shut down for the night and fresh boot tomorrow. Seems to be a pattern there.

Wish me luck and hope.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> What ram manufacturer and model are you running, you know I have heard of issues when using all 4 dimms before on the Saberkitty. But it's heresay so yeah.
> 
> 
> 
> 4x4GB Corsair Dominator Platinums. Ive had two sets of RAM on this board and no issue ever til past month and a half messing with this board, the fail RMA, and past 2 days.
> 
> Its real stable right now tho. Hasnt locked up in hours, running fast and smooth. Im just worried about shut down for the night and fresh boot tomorrow. Seems to be a pattern there.
> 
> Wish me luck and hope.
Click to expand...

Have you reflashed bios yet? Ocing can corrupt bios


----------



## rollobollo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> 4x4GB Corsair Dominator Platinums. Ive had two sets of RAM on this board and no issue ever til past month and a half messing with this board, the fail RMA, and past 2 days.
> 
> Its real stable right now tho. Hasnt locked up in hours, running fast and smooth. Im just worried about shut down for the night and fresh boot tomorrow. Seems to be a pattern there.
> 
> Wish me luck and hope.


If it's not too much trouble, could you use cpu-z , under SPD tab the Part Number, I want to check it against the DRAM QVL, here http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R2.0/SABERTOOTH-990FX-R20_DRAM_QVL_1101.pdf and here http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R2.0/Sabertooth_990FX_R20-Memory-QVL.pdf ,I will also have a look now







You see I was in the same boat as you with my Mushkin Enhanced Blackline 2x8gb but it turns out they don't seem to be supported by the Saberkitty as of yet, there is only maybe a couple of mentions of Mushkin, under 10







Like 4 or so. Weak. Such good memory too. Unless someone else knows the -complete- ram support list, that would help *tons*.


----------



## Mega Man

No ram I have ever used is on the qvl list


----------



## rollobollo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No ram I have ever used is on the qvl list


Dang it, why wont she accept my Mushkins then !! It's not like I went above 1.9v with them when I OCed using FSB of 272x20, the ram had maybe 1.65? So why does she not like them







Can anyone suggest 1600mhz CL8(or lower if possible) top shelf ram, price range up to 300 USD$ that works *100%* with a Sabertooth990FX R2.0 with a FX-8350? Bios Ver Version 2301


----------



## rollobollo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> 4x4GB Corsair Dominator Platinums. Ive had two sets of RAM on this board and no issue ever til past month and a half messing with this board, the fail RMA, and past 2 days.
> 
> Its real stable right now tho. Hasnt locked up in hours, running fast and smooth. Im just worried about shut down for the night and fresh boot tomorrow. Seems to be a pattern there.
> 
> Wish me luck and hope.


I just realized something, in memory timing, make sure they are running T2 (if they are T2), my other set is T2, but the board would default it to T1 on Auto, gave me issues.


----------



## rollobollo

This place is good to pick RAM and other parts to see if they will work or not with your Saberkitty https://pcpartpicker.com/parts/memory/?compatible_with=asus-motherboard-sabertooth990fxr20


----------



## rollobollo

Last question I promise, since my Mushkin ram is ok, I tested on another machine, can I run @ DOCP and still increase the CPU multiplier a little and CPU voltage to get a easy 4.5 OC going, or will the DOCP keep the CPU throttled at 4ghz, regardless what I do? As I have never used the DOCP function and perhaps that is the issue with the Mushkin ram not running correctly, I always set the timings manually best I could but you know, no one is perfect and even I get stuff jacked up. So basically I would take screencaps of what I have now for myself, switch out new ram to Mushkin, set DOCP and up the multiplier so I get *target speed at 4500MHz* and set proper CPU voltage, or will that not work?

By the way, my ram is listed as OK for the kitty here https://pcpartpicker.com/part/mushkin-memory-997069


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> Last question I promise, since my Mushkin ram is ok, I tested on another machine, can I run @ DOCP and still increase the CPU multiplier a little and CPU voltage to get a easy 4.5 OC going, or will the DOCP keep the CPU throttled at 4ghz, regardless what I do? As I have never used the DOCP function and perhaps that is the issue with the Mushkin ram not running correctly, I always set the timings manually best I could but you know, no one is perfect and even I get stuff jacked up. So basically I would take screencaps of what I have now for myself, switch out new ram to Mushkin, set DOCP and up the multiplier so I get *target speed at 4500MHz* and set proper CPU voltage, or will that not work?
> 
> By the way, my ram is listed as OK for the kitty here https://pcpartpicker.com/part/mushkin-memory-997069


DOCP is just Saberkitty's - XMP Intel Speak.

I have tried OC'ing using DOCP.

Not much of a difference really. But my time with the board was just 2 weeks now. So yeah..


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Have you reflashed bios yet? Ocing can corrupt bios


I re-flashed BIOs back before RMA, towards the beginning of my hassle.

Ok, the board is marked

A1
A2
B1
B2

by RAM, telling me the first two slots are dual channel 1, and second two would be dual channel 2. Well, CPU-Z is saying with both A slots populated, that they are in single channel mode. Would A1 and B1 be dual channel 1?

And heres the SPD tab to see RAM specs.



EDIT: Heres another after changing RAM slots from A1 and A2 to A1 and B1. Went to dual channel in CPU-Z, oops. lol



But anyway, my rig ran REAL good all day yesterday until randomly it just went black (probably from timing out and monitor turned off) and it never recovered. And continued to not boot. This morning I removed two sticks of RAM, cleared CMOS and used Mem OK to turn on, it cleared, and I loaded my profile and boom, shes working right now. So Im thinking big time its the RAM, but not because its not compatible, dang it worked for AWHILE.

I thinking the RAM is just going bad somehow, or my boards slots are going bad. I only have this one 4x4GB set, so its the only constant unchanged factor while trying to troubleshoot this board. Im gonna get a cheap 2x 2GB kit new and see what goes on.

And that QVL list is whack. I have a R1.01 board, and I want full 1866 speed from my 1866 MOBO and CPU, not 1333. lol


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I re-flashed BIOs back before RMA, towards the beginning of my hassle.
> 
> Ok, the board is marked
> 
> A1
> A2
> B1
> B2
> 
> by RAM, telling me the first two slots are dual channel 1, and second two would be dual channel 2. Well, CPU-Z is saying with both A slots populated, that they are in single channel mode. Would A1 and B1 be dual channel 1?
> 
> And heres the SPD tab to see RAM specs.
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Heres another after changing RAM slots from A1 and A2 to A1 and B1. Went to dual channel in CPU-Z, oops. lol
> 
> 
> 
> But anyway, my rig ran REAL good all day yesterday until randomly it just went black (probably from timing out and monitor turned off) and it never recovered. And continued to not boot. This morning I removed two sticks of RAM, cleared CMOS and used Mem OK to turn on, it cleared, and I loaded my profile and boom, shes working right now. So Im thinking big time its the RAM, but not because its not compatible, dang it worked for AWHILE.
> 
> I thinking the RAM is just going bad somehow, or my boards slots are going bad. I only have this one 4x4GB set, so its the only constant unchanged factor while trying to troubleshoot this board. Im gonna get a cheap 2x 2GB kit new and see what goes on.
> 
> And that QVL list is whack. I have a R1.01 board, and I want full 1866 speed from my 1866 MOBO and CPU, not 1333. lol


The manual said put your memory in the first slot of each side so A2 and B2 is where you want your memory


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I re-flashed BIOs back before RMA, towards the beginning of my hassle.
> 
> Ok, the board is marked
> 
> A1
> A2
> B1
> B2
> 
> by RAM, telling me the first two slots are dual channel 1, and second two would be dual channel 2. Well, CPU-Z is saying with both A slots populated, that they are in single channel mode. Would A1 and B1 be dual channel 1?


Seems like that. You want to populate Channel A and B for dual channel.
Quote:


> And heres the SPD tab to see RAM specs.
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Heres another after changing RAM slots from A1 and A2 to A1 and B1. Went to dual channel in CPU-Z, oops. lol


You got it right.
Quote:


> But anyway, my rig ran REAL good all day yesterday until randomly it just went black (probably from timing out and monitor turned off) and it never recovered. And continued to not boot. This morning I removed two sticks of RAM, cleared CMOS and used Mem OK to turn on, it cleared, and I loaded my profile and boom, shes working right now. So Im thinking big time its the RAM, but not because its not compatible, dang it worked for AWHILE.


It might be silly to ask but, have you tried changing that CMOS Battery?
Quote:


> I thinking the RAM is just going bad somehow, or my boards slots are going bad. I only have this one 4x4GB set, so its the only constant unchanged factor while trying to troubleshoot this board. Im gonna get a cheap 2x 2GB kit new and see what goes on.
> 
> And that QVL list is whack. I have a R1.01 board, and I want full 1866 speed from my 1866 MOBO and CPU, not 1333. lol


Why would you even consider buying some cheap sticks for the purpose of testing? Get a decent one. If your current sticks were faulty, you get to use the new one anyway. So yeah. It would be more expensive but you're surely not slapping cash to something you wouldn't use if you go for those cheap sticks.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Have you reflashed bios yet? Ocing can corrupt bios
> 
> 
> 
> I re-flashed BIOs back before RMA, towards the beginning of my hassle.
> 
> Ok, the board is marked
> 
> A1
> A2
> B1
> B2
> 
> by RAM, telling me the first two slots are dual channel 1, and second two would be dual channel 2. Well, CPU-Z is saying with both A slots populated, that they are in single channel mode. Would A1 and B1 be dual channel 1?
> 
> And heres the SPD tab to see RAM specs.
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Heres another after changing RAM slots from A1 and A2 to A1 and B1. Went to dual channel in CPU-Z, oops. lol
> 
> 
> 
> But anyway, my rig ran REAL good all day yesterday until randomly it just went black (probably from timing out and monitor turned off) and it never recovered. And continued to not boot. This morning I removed two sticks of RAM, cleared CMOS and used Mem OK to turn on, it cleared, and I loaded my profile and boom, shes working right now. So Im thinking big time its the RAM, but not because its not compatible, dang it worked for AWHILE.
> 
> I thinking the RAM is just going bad somehow, or my boards slots are going bad. I only have this one 4x4GB set, so its the only constant unchanged factor while trying to troubleshoot this board. Im gonna get a cheap 2x 2GB kit new and see what goes on.
> 
> And that QVL list is whack. I have a R1.01 board, and I want full 1866 speed from my 1866 MOBO and CPU, not 1333. lol
Click to expand...

No spoilers on mobile.

Channel a and b slot 1 and 2 so you want a1 and b1.

And no it happens to me all the time usually driver related. Both Intel and amd where it powers off my monitor and won't come back on. Does not mean you are not stable. Depends for me on which driver I am using. If I Am using one that does that I just shut off my monitor


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> It might be silly to ask but, have you tried changing that CMOS Battery?


Yep, whenever things start getting illogical on a board, check and/or replace the battery.
Quote:


> Why would you even consider buying some cheap sticks for the purpose of testing? Get a decent one. If your current sticks were faulty, you get to use the new one anyway. So yeah. It would be more expensive but you're surely not slapping cash to something you wouldn't use if you go for those cheap sticks.


And the price difference, as long as you dont go overboard, isnt that great.


----------



## SwishaMane

Ill look into the battery thing. My BIOS doesnt seem to be saving my multi setting. Its sticking to 20.5. I'm gonna re-flash BIOS to newest, and re-place battery.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Ill look into the battery thing. My BIOS doesnt seem to be saving my multi setting. Its sticking to 20.5. I'm gonna re-flash BIOS to newest, and re-place battery.


Does your dates change as well after your computer goes to sleep never wakes??

If your OC was reverting, as well as your dates (mm-yy-dd) you might have an empty CMOS Battery..


----------



## SwishaMane

I dont use sleep or hibernate. And no, the memory isnt clearing, dates and times are holding.


----------



## Synister

Dates and times will hold if it's still pouted in to the wall, and the PSU switch isn't off. One of my old rigs has a dud battery and I always forget when unplugging her! Clears the BIOS each time!


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> Dates and times will hold if it's still pouted in to the wall, and the PSU switch isn't off.


Pouted into the wall ???? Yeah, and the psu can give the dud or weak battery a temporary charge, so when its taken out and measured with a VOM, you get a false reading. A battery should be left alone outside of the mobo for hours or a day to get a proper voltage measurement.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Pouted into the wall ???? Yeah, and the psu can give the dud or weak battery a temporary charge, so when its taken out and measured with a VOM, you get a false reading. A battery should be left alone outside of the mobo for hours or a day to get a proper voltage measurement.


Not really charging them. It just that the mobo stands by on power as the PSU stands by while being plugged to the wall.

And yes, these batteries were not recharge-able. They ought to be, since recharge-able batteries have or discharges even with very little or no load at all. You don't want that, neither is acceptable when the the battery has to power the CMOS for months after production,even years to keep the valuable BIOS information.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Not really charging them. It just that the mobo stands by on power as the PSU stands by while being plugged to the wall.
> 
> And yes, these batteries were not recharge-able. They ought to be, since recharge-able batteries have or discharges even with very little or no load at all. You don't want that, neither is acceptable when the the battery has to power the CMOS for months after production,even years to keep the valuable BIOS information.


Are you kidding? They don't use re-chargable batteries? Well thats probably a valid issue with my board then. Battery is original to my purchase of this rev 1.01 board like 4 years ago. LOL New battery incoming TODAY! And I will re-flash the BIOS again upon battery change, etc. Give her a good do-over.









Since Im not at my rig right now, these use standard 2032 batteries right? Not a weird 2016 or something? Gonna grab a new one at the sto on my way home.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> Are you kidding? They don't use re-chargable batteries? Well thats probably a valid issue with my board then. Battery is original to my purchase of this rev 1.01 board like 4 years ago. LOL


Nope, they dont use rechargeable batteries. (there were some 486 mobos that did long ago and they were soldered in place, heh)

They are lithium, 2032's. Four years is a long time to go without replacing them, but it depends on the mobo. I had one socket 7 mobo that would kill them in about 6 months. I replace them before two years whether I need to or not. Its cheap insurance against headaches.

Quote:


> Not really charging them. It just that the mobo stands by on power as the PSU stands by while being plugged to the wall.


The dead lithium batteries can hold a charge for a while (but at low amperage) like a cheap capacitor. They need to be discharged, but I dont like the idea of shorting them, in case they are still good, heh. Thats why I just let them sit out for a while.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Nope, they dont use rechargeable batteries. (there were some 486 mobos that did long ago and they were soldered in place, heh)
> 
> They are lithium, 2032's. Four years is a long time to go without replacing them, but it depends on the mobo. I had one socket 7 mobo that would kill them in about 6 months. I replace them before two years whether I need to or not. Its cheap insurance against headaches.
> 
> The dead lithium batteries can hold a charge for a while (but at low amperage) like a cheap capacitor. They need to be discharged, but I dont like the idea of shorting them, in case they are still good, heh. Thats why I just let them sit out for a while.


You pretty much nailed them man!!









4 years, hmm









Yes, they will act as a capacitor that will hold a small potential difference between their metal plates. But very small in terms of charge (Coulombs) thus for a moment you can detect it to have say 3volts and dies turns to zero after a second.

CPMEE was right. These CMOS Batteries need to be replaced at least a once a year.. They're too cheap to buy in packs. Trouble is, after a year, they will also lose integrity even if unused.







So yeah, even after 3 months, I will pop up another and replace the one on the motherboard.


----------



## philhalo66

That's odd you're having issues with the CMOS battery i have a computer from 1999 and it still has the original battery and it still works fine


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> That's odd you're having issues with the CMOS battery i have a computer from 1999 and it still has the original battery and it still works fine


Im pretty sure its at least low on charge, heh. And even in a store, thats way past its shelf life. But yeah, it depends on the mobo. Ive seen some 5 or 6 years old that are fine, but others where the mobo would drain it almost like a flashlight, heh.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Im pretty sure its at least low on charge, heh. And even in a store, thats way past its shelf life. But yeah, it depends on the mobo. Ive seen some 5 or 6 years old that are fine, but others where the mobo would drain it almost like a flashlight, heh.


i have no idea if it is or not but it is the original battery and it keeps all changes i make. i have seen a MoBo drain one though but it was a faulty Board


----------



## rollobollo

Guys you know, those CMOS batteries are VERY easy to misidentify, if you take a magnifying glass to it, there is a CR2032 imprinted on it, when purchasing new battery it is a good idea to make sure you get the battery specified for your motherboard. Just a thought.


----------



## rollobollo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I re-flashed BIOs back before RMA, towards the beginning of my hassle.
> 
> Ok, the board is marked
> 
> A1
> A2
> B1
> B2
> 
> by RAM, telling me the first two slots are dual channel 1, and second two would be dual channel 2. Well, CPU-Z is saying with both A slots populated, that they are in single channel mode. Would A1 and B1 be dual channel 1?
> 
> And heres the SPD tab to see RAM specs.
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Heres another after changing RAM slots from A1 and A2 to A1 and B1. Went to dual channel in CPU-Z, oops. lol
> 
> 
> 
> But anyway, my rig ran REAL good all day yesterday until randomly it just went black (probably from timing out and monitor turned off) and it never recovered. And continued to not boot. This morning I removed two sticks of RAM, cleared CMOS and used Mem OK to turn on, it cleared, and I loaded my profile and boom, shes working right now. So Im thinking big time its the RAM, but not because its not compatible, dang it worked for AWHILE.
> 
> I thinking the RAM is just going bad somehow, or my boards slots are going bad. I only have this one 4x4GB set, so its the only constant unchanged factor while trying to troubleshoot this board. Im gonna get a cheap 2x 2GB kit new and see what goes on.
> 
> And that QVL list is whack. I have a R1.01 board, and I want full 1866 speed from my 1866 MOBO and CPU, not 1333. lol


Out of curiosity what does the following say using elevated cmd prompt : winsat mem & winsat cpu -compression


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> Out of curiosity what does the following say using elevated cmd prompt : winsat mem & winsat cpu -compression


----------



## rollobollo

And that QVL list is whack. I have a R1.01 board, and I want full 1866 speed from my 1866 MOBO and CPU, not 1333. lol[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


The compression looks good, but the ram is on the low side. Looks like a 1333 score.


----------



## SwishaMane

What would you do to improve it? Ive tried tightening the timings and this RAM just will not budge.

And Ive wondered about this before. Ive noticed my RAM speeds are kind of slow. But they always have been. I had a 4x 2GB set of Dominators that ran CAS 8 at 1600 and got scores almost as good as my score now.


----------



## rollobollo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> What would you do to improve it? Ive tried tightening the timings and this RAM just will not budge.


Well in the advanced bios screen, the last tab shows your ram SPD, also aida64 shows your entire rams settings, I would plug those numbers in, stop over-tightening and let the ram breathe, it sounds like you are choking the life out of it Is your DRAM Voltage set to AUTO? What is your ram voltage when you are booted up in windows, I know that aida64 shows this, normally I always had an issue with the kitty undervolting, I found that setting it to 1.51500 or 1.5200 corrects this issue, if your ram is rated @ 1.5 V, if not I don't know what to do on that issue. Have you cleaned your ram? Tried just 2 sticks at a time..dual channel of course? Switched them around, if they have heat spreaders, you can use a very small marker to number them like I did, one heat spreader had a little 1 drawn on it, and the other a little 2, NEVER draw on the ram itself, only if it has a heat spreader that isn't making contact with the ram board. Let me know if that works out.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> And that QVL list is whack. I have a R1.01 board, and I want full 1866 speed from my 1866 MOBO and CPU, not 1333. lol


The compression looks good, but the ram is on the low side. I am running 1600CL9 and this is my winsat mem score ( I am *NOT* showing off, I am sure others would eat me for supper with their 30+k scores, but to show you, that your score should be a bit higher given yours is @ 1866, although you are using 1333 ram OCed @ 1866 and all 4 DIMM slots, may be a factor, I don't know, but I have seen posts with others complaining of their ram acting iffy when using 1866 PC3-14900 in all 4 slots , same with PC3-12800. It may not be your ram at all. Have you tested it in another machine? Now that I think about it, your score looks like a score 1333 ram would score.









[/quote]

how are you getting that high of a number with 1600? not even my 2133 CL10 can do that

on a side note whats wrong with OCN lately the quote thing is broken...


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollobollo*
> 
> Well in the advanced bios screen, the last tab shows your ram SPD, also aida64 shows your entire rams settings, I would plug those numbers in, stop over-tightening and let the ram breathe, it sounds like you are choking the life out of it Is your DRAM Voltage set to AUTO? What is your ram voltage when you are booted up in windows, I know that aida64 shows this, normally I always had an issue with the kitty undervolting, I found that setting it to 1.51500 or 1.5200 corrects this issue, if your ram is rated @ 1.5 V, if not I don't know what to do on that issue. Have you cleaned your ram? Tried just 2 sticks at a time..dual channel of course? Switched them around, if they have heat spreaders, you can use a very small marker to number them like I did, one heat spreader had a little 1 drawn on it, and the other a little 2, NEVER draw on the ram itself, only if it has a heat spreader that isn't making contact with the ram board. Let me know if that works out.


My RAM is set to stock for the RAM. 9-10-9-27-48-2T. 1.575v

I just replaced my CMOS battery. Old one still reads 3.05v after an hour or so.


----------



## SwishaMane




----------



## rollobollo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*


That looks good.


----------



## SwishaMane

I enabled bank interleaving, thats it. I brought it down to 1.52vRAM


----------



## philhalo66

I just realized the R 2.0 doe NOT have core unlocking is there any reason why the 1.0 does and the 2.0 doesn't?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> I just realized the R 2.0 doe NOT have core unlocking is there any reason why the 1.0 does and the 2.0 doesn't?


Energy saving? It's a bit of effort but there's a thread here.


----------



## mjcaouette89

I'd like to join, here is my cpu-z validation:
http://valid.x86.fr/45cmec

Here are some pics of my current setup:
http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/caddylover72/media/WP_20140418_002_zpsf26225fe.jpg.html
http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/caddylover72/media/temporary_zps07c31390.jpg.html
http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/caddylover72/media/temporary_zps1432405c.jpg.html

The VRM fan was my latest addition, and it really helped drop the temps significantly. The fan was the one that came with the stock cooler for the fx 8320.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mjcaouette89*
> 
> I'd like to join, here is my cpu-z validation:
> http://valid.x86.fr/45cmec
> 
> Here are some pics of my current setup:
> http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/caddylover72/media/WP_20140418_002_zpsf26225fe.jpg.html
> http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/caddylover72/media/temporary_zps07c31390.jpg.html
> http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/caddylover72/media/temporary_zps1432405c.jpg.html
> 
> The VRM fan was my latest addition, and it really helped drop the temps significantly. The fan was the one that came with the stock cooler for the fx 8320.


So, 277 mhz fsb can it hibernate in Windows? I'm curious?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Not really charging them. It just that the mobo stands by on power as the PSU stands by while being plugged to the wall.
> 
> And yes, these batteries were not recharge-able. They ought to be, since recharge-able batteries have or discharges even with very little or no load at all. You don't want that, neither is acceptable when the the battery has to power the CMOS for months after production,even years to keep the valuable BIOS information.
> 
> 
> 
> Are you kidding? They don't use re-chargable batteries? Well thats probably a valid issue with my board then. Battery is original to my purchase of this rev 1.01 board like 4 years ago. LOL New battery incoming TODAY! And I will re-flash the BIOS again upon battery change, etc. Give her a good do-over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since Im not at my rig right now, these use standard 2032 batteries right? Not a weird 2016 or something? Gonna grab a new one at the sto on my way home.
Click to expand...

All mobos I have seen take cr2032 how it works for you
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> I just realized the R 2.0 doe NOT have core unlocking is there any reason why the 1.0 does and the 2.0 doesn't?


It was not needed for fx so it was removed


----------



## mjcaouette89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> So, 277 mhz fsb can it hibernate in Windows? I'm curious?


Unfortunately I'm unsure of that as I don't ever use hibernate. Startup and shutdown time is fairly good with windows 8, so I always just shut down in between uses. Maybe I can test it this weekend sometime.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*


Quote:


> how are you getting that high of a number with 1600? not even my 2133 CL10 can do that
> 
> on a side note whats wrong with OCN lately the quote thing is broken...


Check your RAM specs. CR1 from CR2 makes a huge improvement.

Also check on the TRFC Value. If your RAM can support lower values, they could make your RAM go FASST..

Common Value for TRFC - 300nS, 160nS, 110nS, 90nS. So if your RAM can handle 90nS, even f it's only a 1600, You will in effect get better performance than a 2133 CL10 with TRFC of 160nS.

Could save you a couple of nS latency on AIDA as well.. + 0.04 point on CB (old one)


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> All mobos I have seen take cr2032 how it works for you


System seems to be working good now. Past couple days it hasnt refused to post. All 4 dimms are in again. I really dont know what I did. Everything is pretty much the same besides some setting adjustments. Old battery is still reading 3.05v after all night, so it wasnt that I bet. But whatever, Ive revived my setup, and with a little messing around, you all helped me dial in my RAM a little better. So its all good. lol

As for if it'll STAY working good, no clue yet.


----------



## Mega Man

how= hope * i was on phone sorry


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Check your RAM specs. CR1 from CR2 makes a huge improvement.
> 
> Also check on the TRFC Value. If your RAM can support lower values, they could make your RAM go FASST..
> 
> Common Value for TRFC - 300nS, 160nS, 110nS, 90nS. So if your RAM can handle 90nS, even f it's only a 1600, You will in effect get better performance than a 2133 CL10 with TRFC of 160nS.
> 
> Could save you a couple of nS latency on AIDA as well.. + 0.04 point on CB (old one)


it wont even post at any speed with anything lower than 300


----------



## chiefo0306

Quick question. I have the original 990fx. I am trying to upgrade to the 1604 bios. Every time I get an error saying that the file is not a valid EFI file, even though I am downloading directly from the Asus site. Does any one have any suggestions or an md5 that I can use to verify that my file is downloading properly?


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiefo0306*
> 
> Quick question. I have the original 990fx. I am trying to upgrade to the 1604 bios. Every time I get an error saying that the file is not a valid EFI file, even though I am downloading directly from the Asus site. Does any one have any suggestions or an md5 that I can use to verify that my file is downloading properly?


Pretty sure you've got to rename it to ST990R20

Also this is my winsat result at 2400 speed memory.... whats going on?, i have to be doing something wrong


----------



## LtStinger

You've gotta have something going on there...that doesn't make sense at all...


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Pretty sure you've got to rename it to ST990R20
> 
> Also this is my winsat result at 2400 speed memory.... whats going on?, i have to be doing something wrong


Enable bank interleaving. Both are under northbridge settings in BIOS. If its not that, IDK. Thats what I did to go from 16000 to almost 22000. ALSO, try re-running it a few times. I noticed major differences between 2 or 3 runs in a row.


----------



## chiefo0306

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Pretty sure you've got to rename it to ST990R20


That didnt effect it. Still getting an error


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Also this is my winsat result at 2400 speed memory.... whats going on?, i have to be doing something wrong


Latency, I believe. 2400 CL13 could only be as good as a 1600 CL9 IMO
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LtStinger*
> 
> You've gotta have something going on there...that doesn't make sense at all...


Also note, it could be some timings as well..


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> it wont even post at any speed with anything lower than 300


Like I said, refer to your sticks' spec. My hyperx genesis for example has up to 110ns minimum per spec..

And I can run it all day with latencies lower than 160ns could produce. On a negative note, my sticks has pretty standard timings. 1866 9-11-9-27..

Edit:
this is what I can get:

Ran Twice just because maybe once is whack..


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> I don't have a fan and mine have never even gotten to 47C the hottest i ever seen them was Vcore 1 showing 46C when i was running prime95 but i do recommend a fan as well especially for the 8 core chips.


Mega would be correct. I have my machine under water and even when it was on air the VCORES were smoking 70C+ I would suggest anything over a 8350 have cooling on the VRMS From my experience and i have owned every chip from 8350 on up. Yes they can handle the heat but why shorten the life of the motherboard.

This is personally the one I use. Newegg does not have them right now but they are available on ebay.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209044


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiefo0306*
> 
> That didnt effect it. Still getting an error


I have onl;y flashed mine twice. USB stick formatted as FAT32.
Bios File not renamed nor anything.. Just downloaded R2 CAP FILE


----------



## philhalo66

Okay so after reseting the memory to stock this was my result


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Okay so after reseting the memory to stock this was my result


Way better eh??
















Have you tried 2400 CL 12?? Pretty sure that could yield better results


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Way better eh??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you tried 2400 CL 12?? Pretty sure that could yield better results


tried that and barely got 19GB/s


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> tried that and barely got 19GB/s


HMM..

Can your 2133 still be tightened??

Like 10-11-11?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chiefo0306*
> 
> That didnt effect it. Still getting an error
> 
> 
> 
> I have onl;y flashed mine twice. USB stick formatted as FAT32.
> Bios File not renamed nor anything.. Just downloaded R2 CAP FILE
Click to expand...

you have to rename it to use usb bios flashback
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Way better eh??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you tried 2400 CL 12?? Pretty sure that could yield better results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tried that and barely got 19GB/s
Click to expand...

what voltage/speed is your cpu/nb


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you have to rename it to use usb bios flashback
> what voltage/speed is your cpu/nb


2600MHz CPU/NB with stock voltage


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you have to rename it to use usb bios flashback


Sorry for this noobish. BIOS FlashBack means? Going to previous BIOS?

Pretty sure mine flashed 2301 from 2103 that came with my board. HMM.. Must be doing something wrong here.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Sorry for this noobish. BIOS FlashBack means? Going to previous BIOS?
> 
> Pretty sure mine flashed 2301 from 2103 that came with my board. HMM.. Must be doing something wrong here.


BIOS Flash back is just the name for the auto flash tool built into the motherboard. rename the file to ST990R20 and put it on a flash drive and put the flash drive in the white USB slot right next to the flashback button and turn off your PC but leave it plugged in and press and hold the flashback buton for 5 seconds and then let it do what it need to do when it's done the blue light will stop flashing


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> BIOS Flash back is just the name for the auto flash tool built into the motherboard. rename the file to ST990R20 and put it on a flash drive and put the flash drive in the white USB slot right next to the flashback button and turn off your PC but leave it plugged in and press and hold the flashback buton for 5 seconds and then let it do what it need to do when it's done the blue light will stop flashing


Ahhh..
















Thanks for the info!!!


----------



## chiefo0306

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I have onl;y flashed mine twice. USB stick formatted as FAT32.
> Bios File not renamed nor anything.. Just downloaded R2 CAP FILE


I have the revsion one. It does not support bios flashback. nor is it a cap file. its a rom file for the r1 mobo


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you have to rename it to use usb bios flashback
> what voltage/speed is your cpu/nb
> 
> 
> 
> 2600MHz CPU/NB with stock voltage
Click to expand...

Try bumping it. Up to your heat ceiling. I spent quite awhile doing it and each bump brought different results.

4 dimms and or 8gb sticks will require more volts then 2dimms 4gb sticks

(Most can do 1.2 to 1.3 at 2400 with 2 dimms 8 gig sticks. Not all 8350s can do 2400. And again 4dimms is hard on imc as is 8gb sticks. Also not all can do4 dimms some can not even do 2 dimms )

Hope this makes since as it was on mobile
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Sorry for this noobish. BIOS FlashBack means? Going to previous BIOS?
> 
> Pretty sure mine flashed 2301 from 2103 that came with my board. HMM.. Must be doing something wrong here.
> 
> 
> 
> BIOS Flash back is just the name for the auto flash tool built into the motherboard. rename the file to ST990R20 and put it on a flash drive and put the flash drive in the white USB slot right next to the flashback button and turn off your PC but leave it plugged in and press and hold the flashback buton for 5 seconds and then let it do what it need to do when it's done the blue light will stop flashing
Click to expand...

Also to note you don't need cpu or ram installed to do this. Which is nice when a board does not support a cpu and even better that all rog/tuf (newish) boards come with it and most newer Asus boards


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> *Try bumping it. Up to your heat ceiling*. I spent quite awhile doing it and each bump brought different results.
> 
> 4 dimms and or 8gb sticks will require more volts then 2dimms 4gb sticks
> 
> (Most can do 1.2 to 1.3 at 2400 with 2 dimms 8 gig sticks. Not all 8350s can do 2400. And again 4dimms is hard on imc as is 8gb sticks. Also not all can do4 dimms some can not even do 2 dimms )
> 
> Hope this makes since as it was on mobile
> Also to note you don't need cpu or ram installed to do this. Which is nice when a board does not support a cpu and even better that all rog/tuf (newish) boards come with it and most newer Asus boards


How would i even find out the actual temperatures on the NB the thermal sensor is like 2 inches away


----------



## Mega Man

Cpu/nb is on cpu it is the imc


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Cpu/nb is on cpu it is the imc


Ohh well mine won't even post without atleast 1.35V. I thought you were talking about the NB


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Ohh well mine won't even post without atleast 1.35V. I thought you were talking about the NB


2600+ CPU-NB is kinda tricky in my experience without using the FSB. One reason might be that CPU-NB max on most lies about 2600-2700. But that is not saying none have done past 2700.

I can only speak for my chip as it can only do 2680 at best. And keeping it stable is quite a job. Also found out on a limited test that CPU-NB and Core Voltage somewhat have deadspots. For example, on my GIGA , bumping CPU-NB to +0.100 and Core +0.100 will produce unstable results. While lowering the Vcore to +0.075, CPU-NB +0.100 keeps me working all great. That is with same frequencies. But that could be a GIGA thing.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Cpu/nb is on cpu it is the imc
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh well mine won't even post without atleast 1.35V. I thought you were talking about the NB
Click to expand...

Having helped as many people as I have and having used 3 different chips across 4 boards all able to. I highly doubt that. But hey it is overclocking.

I would need bios screens voltage (all) digi (all) and cpu settings (all, meaning the multis and things not power saving) to help out. Are your vrms cooled actively?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Having helped as many people as I have and having used 3 different chips across 4 boards all able to. I highly doubt that. But hey it is overclocking.


Not to mention the "luck of the draw"
Quote:


> I would need bios screens voltage (all) digi (all) and cpu settings (all, meaning the multis and things not power saving) to help out. Are your vrms cooled actively?


^this


----------



## SwishaMane

So, is there any "agreement" we could come to about certain voltages and freqs.? What
I mean specifically is the cpu - nb voltage, NB voltage compared to freq., and what the NB can do without degrading performance. I thought i read, for any FX chip and above, that the system performed best with the NB stock (2200mhz ??), and actually performed worse when OC'd?

How true is that? What should my cpu - nb voltage be ideally? And would it be safe, performance wise, to go above 2200mhz NB? What voltage is ideal for NB stock and OC'd?

I cant help but wonder if I'm selling my system short when I run the NB stock at stock volts, or if I could do 1.2v and maybe 2400mhz? What about htt? 2200 always, or could that bump too?

I want my setup doing all it can, but safely of course.







And I wanna be able to OC my CPU more, and know that instability is because of the chip, and not a voltage setting that was too high or too low.

In fact, Ill post screens later tonight of my settings, since reviving my board, and let you guys make some calls.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> So, is there any "agreement" we could come to about certain voltages and freqs.? What
> I mean specifically is the cpu - nb voltage, NB voltage compared to freq., and what the NB can do without degrading performance. I thought i read, for any FX chip and above, that the system performed best with the NB stock (2200mhz ??), and actually performed worse when OC'd?
> 
> How true is that? What should my cpu - nb voltage be ideally? And would it be safe, performance wise, to go above 2200mhz NB? What voltage is ideal for NB stock and OC'd?
> 
> I cant help but wonder if I'm selling my system short when I run the NB stock at stock volts, or if I could do 1.2v and maybe 2400mhz? What about htt? 2200 always, or could that bump too?
> 
> I want my setup doing all it can, but safely of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wanna be able to OC my CPU more, and know that instability is because of the chip, and not a voltage setting that was too high or too low.


One quick answer I could give, depends on your chip.
CPU OC is the best that you can do. Will have the greatest impact.
CPU-NB OC to have a speedy IMC. Sort of fine tuning trick on the memory.
HT Link if you want more PCIe bandwidth. (Running 4 cards)

As for the voltages, whatever keeps your system stable.(chip dependent really)
And yes, stable + cool running system is the target when OC'ing these chips.

These being said, CPU-NB at 2400 and up will help especially when your memory runs 2133 and up..
HT Link at 3000+ is useless unless you run 4 cards.

Others could say whatever on the above. But in general,

You can chose whatever trick you want when working with these chips.As long as you can cool them properly.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> So, is there any "agreement" we could come to about certain voltages and freqs.? What
> I mean specifically is the cpu - nb voltage, NB voltage compared to freq., and what the NB can do without degrading performance. I thought i read, for any FX chip and above, that the system performed best with the NB stock (2200mhz ??), and actually performed worse when OC'd?
> 
> How true is that? What should my cpu - nb voltage be ideally? And would it be safe, performance wise, to go above 2200mhz NB? What voltage is ideal for NB stock and OC'd?
> 
> I cant help but wonder if I'm selling my system short when I run the NB stock at stock volts, or if I could do 1.2v and maybe 2400mhz? What about htt? 2200 always, or could that bump too?
> 
> I want my setup doing all it can, but safely of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wanna be able to OC my CPU more, and know that instability is because of the chip, and not a voltage setting that was too high or too low.
> 
> 
> 
> One quick answer I could give, depends on your chip.
> CPU OC is the best that you can do. Will have the greatest impact.
> CPU-NB OC to have a speedy IMC. Sort of fine tuning trick on the memory.
> HT Link if you want more PCIe bandwidth. (Running 4 cards)
> 
> As for the voltages, whatever keeps your system stable.(chip dependent really)
> And yes, stable + cool running system is the target when OC'ing these chips.
> 
> These being said, CPU-NB at 2400 and up will help especially when your memory runs 2133 and up..
> HT Link at 3000+ is useless unless you run 4 cards.
> 
> Others could say whatever on the above. But in general,
> 
> You can chose whatever trick you want when working with these chips.As long as you can cool them properly.
Click to expand...

Thanks, but I'missing fsb oc? Is the ht replace the fsb with amd cpu?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> 1)
> So, is there any "agreement" we could come to about certain voltages and freqs.? What
> I mean specifically is the cpu - nb voltage, NB voltage compared to freq., and what the NB can do without degrading performance. I thought i read, for any FX chip and above, that the system performed best with the NB stock (2200mhz ??), and actually performed worse when OC'd?
> 
> 2)
> How true is that? What should my cpu - nb voltage be ideally? And would it be safe, performance wise, to go above 2200mhz NB? What voltage is ideal for NB stock and OC'd?
> 
> 3)
> I cant help but wonder if I'm selling my system short when I run the NB stock at stock volts, or if I could do 1.2v and maybe 2400mhz? What about htt? 2200 always, or could that bump too?
> 
> 4)
> I want my setup doing all it can, but safely of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I wanna be able to OC my CPU more, and know that instability is because of the chip, and not a voltage setting that was too high or too low.
> 
> 5)
> In fact, Ill post screens later tonight of my settings, since reviving my board, and let you guys make some calls.


I need to make sure you understand what these are'as in the past there have been miss understandings about what they do.

You keep calling cpu/nb nb. Which it is not. Nb is the chip by your vrms which you can NOT oc

Cpu/nb is your memory controller which is on the die of your cpu

Nb voltage can help stabilize ocs and in my experience does help esp with cpu/nb ocs. Around 1.2 with proper cooling. I run mine at 1.25 on my main rig.
The 2200 rumor started in BD as it seemed to help. I just got to a place me and my family are visiting in China I will finish this later

Edit. I'll finish in a min I was wrong we did not

HT is the sink between CPU and NB on mobo, from there it goes to GPUs and south bridge and everything else, please note this is a simplified explanation, this pic may help you understand



with that out of the way.

1) what ever you feel comfortable with and you can keep the temps in check with i would be willing to bet i have pushed my chips harder then almost everyone with this board esp on secondary volts ( non Vcore ) i have pushed 1.6 on the cpu/nb. and on the ht i dont remember the other volts i have hit on other voltages off the top of my head

either way all my chips survived, i thought i degraded one, but later found out i corrupted my bios.

as to the cpu/nb that is a thing started back in Bulldozer ( not vishara ) and it seemed to work, however has never proved accurate on vishara

2 volts should be the lowest that keep you stable and within temps i push my chips hard well past the recommended temps again ideal is what ever you can keep cool

3 with any memory above 2200 you HAVE to run it faster then 2200 ( has to be at or above ram speed ) ( cpu/nb ) HT i would highly discourage you from doing at this point, it is a pain in the bum, and adds by far the most heat and vcore increases. second to that is cpu/nb which i have not needed to increase vcore but adds a high amount of heat, just leave it at stock ( 2600 ) for now, play with it once you stabilize your chip. another issue is it is a pain to stress and see if your stable. i could pass every benchmark ( gpu or cpu, but only Gpu will stress this as no amounts of disk stressing will ever reach anywhere near the levels to see errors) but still find i was unstable, it becomes very easy to corrupt bios and your windows install with HT as it is the lanes data is sent across, the only sure way i found was DVDfab and encoding bluerays.

4 i need screens to help you, only thing you really need to worry about is heat. i have yet to see a chip degrade due to anything but extreme volts ( 2+ )

5 good look forward to it


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Thanks, but I'missing fsb oc? Is the ht replace the fsb with amd cpu?


Yes, forgot that field. FSB OC, this will affect every parameter on your system. CPU frequency, cpu-nb, ht link, even PCIe (some boards are ganged).

Rule of thumb, observe the other parameters when doing this. You need to keep them within known working values. Cpu-nb maxes out to 2700 on most chips. Ht link can be finicky past 3000.

And yes, FSB is called HT or hyper transport in AMD speak.


----------



## mus1mus

I think the rumor on CPU-NB performing worse when OC'd started with people having a hard time stabilizing CPU-NB OC.























Others could bash my statement but it really depends on whether you can stabilize it or not. It's a bit finicky, yes. But ooh, the rewards were great!!!
















Also, I remember when I started out with these chip and a Giga board, I suggested a blind area on the CPU-NB Multi with Giga boards. X12 was a dud but doesn't mean 2400 CPU-NB is dead. And at that time, even the experienced ones would doubt it.





















But that issue is cleared out now. And yes, Asus boards don't have that bug. It could've also contributed to the CPU-NB rumors!!!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Thanks, but I'missing fsb oc? Is the ht replace the fsb with amd cpu?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, forgot that field. FSB OC, this will affect every parameter on your system. CPU frequency, cpu-nb, ht link, even PCIe (some boards are ganged).
> 
> Rule of thumb, observe the other parameters when doing this. You need to keep them within known working values. Cpu-nb maxes out to 2700 on most chips. Ht link can be finicky past 3000.
> 
> And yes, FSB is called HT or hyper transport in AMD speak.
Click to expand...

no FSB is NOT HT

FSB is front-side bus ( which is an often used incorrect term for amd. but meh it works ) and is the speed between the board and the cpu. this is actually *HyperTransport™ Reference Clock
*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> HyperTransport™ Reference Clock (HT ref. clk) : The base clock for various clock domains on the
> AMD "Scorpius" platform technology. HT ref. clock is 200MHz by default. CPU, CPU NB, HT Link and Memory clocks are all linked to HT ref. clock. HT ref. clock adjustment is a good tool for fine tuning the various clocks to optimal values. The HT ref. clock value itself doesn't have any impact on performance






HT is hyper transport which goes from the cpu to the rest of the board. this is what is referred to as "_*HT overclocking*_"


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> HT Link Multiplier: This multiplier determines the clock speed of the HT Link. In the case of the AMD FX-8150 CPU, the default value is x13 (13x200MHz = 2600MHz). In most cases a reboot is required for HT Link Multiplier value adjustment. The maximum value of HT Link Multiplier is x13. HT Link Multiplier is unlocked on all of the AMD FX-series CPUs.






also i edited my last post and you may need to refresh to see it
*** please note all descriptions NOT in spoilers are just simplified explanations SOURCE for all spoilers


----------



## LtStinger

Being until very recently a 955 C3 owner for a good while, I read up a lot on CPU/NB overclocking and found real good results with it. I just upgraded to the FX chip and started reading again within the last couple weeks.

Now I wish I could find the post I was going to reference, but I know it was on this site. It may have been where the rumors originated, it was certainly not a small discussion. But basically what I got out of it is that the gains seen from CPU/NB overclocking had their hayday in the PhenomII/Th days, and the FX chips did not see such gains as had shown in the past. It wasn't a bulldozer thing...it was explained a lot with a lot of jargon I cannot remember. It may have had something to do with the L3 cache, and how it was utilized in the FX chips vs how it was utilized in the Phenoms was wildly different. My memory is telling me that's somewhere along the target of the discussion for why the CPU/NB overclock was not as effective....L3 Cache. Does that sound right at all?

I haven't messed with my CPU/NB yet, as I have yet to decide if this is an overclock worth fussing around with. I only use 1600 speed RAM, so if there is a benefit to be seen it would probably be me who would see it, correct? Or is it the other way around? Faster RAM will see more of a benefit from the CPU/NB overclock or slower RAM? And how does it affect timings working with the FX chip, will I need to loosen them to maintain stability, or will it just depend on NB and CPU/NB voltage and how my chip likes it, with timings not being a factor at all?

Appreciate the input, still trying to investigate this area further.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LtStinger*
> 
> Being until very recently a 955 C3 owner for a good while, I read up a lot on CPU/NB overclocking and found real good results with it. I just upgraded to the FX chip and started reading again within the last couple weeks.
> 
> Now I wish I could find the post I was going to reference, but I know it was on this site. It may have been where the rumors originated, it was certainly not a small discussion. But basically what I got out of it is that the gains seen from CPU/NB overclocking had their hayday in the PhenomII/Th days, and the FX chips did not see such gains as had shown in the past. It wasn't a bulldozer thing...it was explained a lot with a lot of jargon I cannot remember. It may have had something to do with the L3 cache, and how it was utilized in the FX chips vs how it was utilized in the Phenoms was wildly different. My memory is telling me that's somewhere along the target of the discussion for why the CPU/NB overclock was not as effective....L3 Cache. Does that sound right at all?
> 
> I haven't messed with my CPU/NB yet, as I have yet to decide if this is an overclock worth fussing around with. I only use 1600 speed RAM, so if there is a benefit to be seen it would probably be me who would see it, correct? Or is it the other way around? Faster RAM will see more of a benefit from the CPU/NB overclock or slower RAM? And how does it affect timings working with the FX chip, will I need to loosen them to maintain stability, or will it just depend on NB and CPU/NB voltage and how my chip likes it, with timings not being a factor at all?
> 
> Appreciate the input, still trying to investigate this area further.


NP !

although you are on the right basis " locking " cpu/nb and ht to 2200 showed improvements in benches on BD that is what i was referring which people keep porting over to vishara, which has no basis in fact as vishara does not show these improvements

although you are right about the lack of improvements when compared to PHII

as for you, you may get minor improvements in benches, it will not be enough to care about unless you are truly going for that MAX score.

CPU/nb helps faster speed ram.

amd felt it was a good idea to keep it faster then ram ( max supported ram is 1866) and they capped it @ 2200. ( 83xx, talking about speeds not max capacity ) and i personally have noticed that is about the sweet spot for ram, i run 2400 8gb sticks which are much harder on the imc then 4gb sticks however i can almost match the best 4gb stick scores and only have seen a few past me. i keep my main chip at 2700 and my secondary @ 2600. the 2600 has substantially less scores.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Having helped as many people as I have and having used 3 different chips across 4 boards all able to. I highly doubt that. But hey it is overclocking.
> 
> I would need bios screens voltage (all) digi (all) and cpu settings (all, meaning the multis and things not power saving) to help out. Are your vrms cooled actively?


Here ya go, Yes my VRM's are actively cooled with a downward pushing fan on the top of my case. Notice the auto voltage for the CPU/NB is 1.45V


----------



## LtStinger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> . i keep my main chip at 2700 and my secondary @ 2600. the 2600 has *substantially less scores*.


That makes it sound like it would show some kind of noticeable improvement and not just for a benchie.

Although your ram is much faster than mine, and maybe that's where my improvement would not be so substantial. I believe that's what you're saying here.

Basically, keeping my CPU/NB stock is likely not to have a noticeable difference than if I improve my CPU/NB clock speeds, unless I'm benching for better scores. Real world difference won't matter with my setup. (6350, 1600 RAM) However with faster RAM speeds, (such as 2400 in your case) CPU/NB speeds will show a pretty good increase with a CPU/NB overclock, and maybe even something that is real world noticeable. It is dependent on your RAM and how fast you're running it in the first place. Just trying to echo what you're saying in different words to make sure it's coming across to me correctly.


----------



## Recursion

What does it mean fsb is mobo to cpu and ht is cpu to the rest? isn't fsb bidirectional and why 2 transportation?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no FSB is NOT HT
> 
> FSB is front-side bus ( which is an often used incorrect term for amd. but meh it works ) and is the speed between the board and the cpu. this is actually *HyperTransport™ Reference Clock*


Lol.. I don't know how you can say that HT (hyper transport) is not FSB when your explaination points into it.

There is a big difference between HT and HT Link. So you might as well look at my post and your explanation before pointing into it as wrong.

Anyway, that explanation should clear a lot of misconceptions between the two.

You just pointed out to the wrong person.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no FSB is NOT HT
> 
> FSB is front-side bus ( which is an often used incorrect term for amd. but meh it works ) and is the speed between the board and the cpu. this is actually *HyperTransport™ Reference Clock*
> 
> 
> 
> Lol.. I don't know how you can say that HT (hyper transport) is not FSB when your explaination points into it.
> 
> There is a big difference between HT and HT Link. So you might as well look at my post and your explanation before pointing into it as wrong.
> 
> Anyway, that explanation should clear a lot of misconceptions between the two.
> 
> You just pointed out to the wrong person.
Click to expand...

Can you elaborate?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Can you elaborate?


HT or FSB, or to be perfectly clear, HT Reference clock, has values from of several hundreds. HT link on the other hand, has several thousands..

In the fx, HT = 200 MHz at stock.
HT link = 2600..

The rest have been covered already by megaman..

HT reference clock is the basic value dictating CPU, cpu-nb, HT link, memory and some other clocks with their corresponding multipliers.


----------



## SwishaMane

Ooh, btw guys, how does the F12 - Print Screen work in the bios? Does it auto save to a USB drive plugged into the board? Never used it and have been wondering since I see ppl post screenshots of in the BIOS.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Ooh, btw guys, how does the F12 - Print Screen work in the bios? Does it auto save to a USB drive plugged into the board? Never used it and have been wondering since I see ppl post screenshots of in the BIOS.


yes.. Format your USB stick to fat32 and start capturing the screen by pressing f12

Lol, and don't plug it to a USB 3.0 port...


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Can you elaborate?
> 
> 
> 
> HT or FSB, or to be perfectly clear, HT Reference clock, has values from of several hundreds. HT link on the other hand, has several thousands..
> 
> In the fx, HT = 200 MHz at stock.
> HT link = 2600..
> 
> The rest have been covered already by megaman..
> 
> HT reference clock is the basic value dictating CPU, cpu-nb, HT link, memory and some other clocks with their corresponding multipliers.
Click to expand...

Thanks much clearer.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> yes.. Format your USB stick to fat32 and start capturing the screen by pressing f12
> 
> Lol, and don't plug it to a USB 3.0 port...


Why? Does it OC my CPU to 6gigglehurtz and make my rig into a cake.


----------



## LtStinger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Why? Does it OC my CPU to 6gigglehurtz and make my rig into a cake.


I think the USB 3.0 drivers don't load until you boot into windows.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LtStinger*
> 
> I think the USB 3.0 drivers don't load until you boot into windows.


it works fine for me with my 30GB USB drive in one of the USB 3.0 ports


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> it works fine for me with my 30GB USB drive in one of the USB 3.0 ports


Probably only at a 1.1 or 2.0 speed tho, which is fine... lol


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Probably only at a 1.1 or 2.0 speed tho, which is fine... lol


lol probably but its plenty fast for saving screenshots


----------



## Recursion

You can also oc with a third-party tool. I prefer Amd turion control It's open source but the latest release is a bit old.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LtStinger*
> 
> I think the USB 3.0 drivers don't load until you boot into windows.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> it works fine for me with my 30GB USB drive in one of the USB 3.0 ports


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Probably only at a 1.1 or 2.0 speed tho, which is fine... lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> lol probably but its plenty fast for saving screenshots


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> You can also oc with a third-party tool. I prefer Amd turion control It's open source but the latest release is a bit old.


Legacy USB support.. Usually not enabled with the USB 3.0 ports..


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Legacy USB support.. Usually not enabled with the USB 3.0 ports..


Hmm i didn't know that this is my first USB 3.0 capable Motherboard but it does seem to work fine


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Hmm i didn't know that this is my first USB 3.0 capable Motherboard but it does seem to work fine


There are boards that don't.. Heck, Asus P8Z77-V won't even boot with a keyboard attached to a USB3.0 port.

So yeah, just a simple note in case you wonder it won't work..


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> There are boards that don't.. Heck, Asus P8Z77-V won't even boot with a keyboard attached to a USB3.0 port.
> 
> So yeah, just a simple note in case you wonder it won't work..


I noticed my Keyboard doesn't work in a USB 3.0 port but flash drives do. Thanks for the info i guess you really do learn something new everyday.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> I noticed my Keyboard doesn't work in a USB 3.0 port but flash drives do. Thanks for the info i guess you really do learn something new everyday.


That explains it.. But how your flash drives work, I have no more idea..lol

Legacy support by the way, means using a device prior to windows. So yeah, bios. And if you have tried installing windows via a stick, you'll see why...install just won't finish for some reason using usb3.0 ports..


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> I noticed my Keyboard doesn't work in a USB 3.0 port but flash drives do. Thanks for the info i guess you really do learn something new everyday.
> 
> 
> 
> That explains it.. But how your flash drives work, I have no more idea..lol
> 
> Legacy support by the way, means using a device prior to windows. So yeah, bios. And if you have tried installing windows via a stick, you'll see why...install just won't finish for some reason using usb3.0 ports..
Click to expand...

Thank you. I'm still learning every day.


----------



## SwishaMane

Rig is pretty solid right now. See anything weird?


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> Rig is pretty solid right now. See anything weird?


Why do you have Turbo on Auto ?
Up your CPU/NB speeds to at least stock 2400mhz for more performance and HT link to the same amount too.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Why do you have Turbo on Auto ?
> Up your CPU/NB speeds to at least stock 2400mhz for more performance and HT link to the same amount too.


Ooh, I overlooked it. And I actually did up both to 2400mhz about an hour ago. Rig is rock solid so far.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> And I actually did up both to 2400mhz about an hour ago. Rig is rock solid so far.


Well, up it some more. You should be able to do 2600 - 2700 on the CPU/NB which is more performance (increased cache performance). HT Link speed (bandwidth to the 990 NB) you can do crazy numbers like 3900 mhz, but not hardly any performance gain over 2600 unless using a high end triple gpu type setup.


----------



## SwishaMane

BSOD after windows logon @ 2650Mhz. Im not too worried about it tho.









I reset fsb to 200 x 23 and kept them both at 2600mhz, and it seems pretty stable so far.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Well, up it some more. You should be able to do 2600 - 2700 on the CPU/NB which is more performance (increased cache performance). HT Link speed (bandwidth to the 990 NB) you can do crazy numbers like 3900 mhz, but not hardly any performance gain over 2600 unless using a high end triple gpu type setup.


2600-2700 might be where the performance is, but there's also a difficulty stabilizing a CPU-NB past 2600.























I should say, if you can mix it up with FSB and Multi, 2500 to <2600 on CPU-NB is where the sweetspot lies. Not too hard to stabilize with big improvement gains.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> BSOD after windows logon @ 2650Mhz. Im not too worried about it tho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I reset fsb to 200 x 23 and kept them both at 2600mhz, and it seems pretty stable so far.


You will need more Vcore and more Voltages to tweak when mixing up FSB and Multi OC., But pretty much not a hassle on these boards. 2600 is pretty achievable with ease when using a saberkitty..


----------



## Mega Man

finally home on wifi and can answer you, sorry for the delayed response but i was not gonna do this on my phone
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Having helped as many people as I have and having used 3 different chips across 4 boards all able to. I highly doubt that. But hey it is overclocking.
> 
> I would need bios screens voltage (all) digi (all) and cpu settings (all, meaning the multis and things not power saving) to help out. Are your vrms cooled actively?
> 
> 
> 
> Here ya go, Yes my VRM's are actively cooled with a downward pushing fan on the top of my case. Notice the auto voltage for the CPU/NB is 1.45V
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Shut off turbo, all spread spectrums and dcop. manually enter all ram settings ( volts, main 4-5 timings, and speed. )
adj ram voltage up a notch or two as it looks to be 1.65v ram and it is coming up short
adj nb ( NOT cpu/nb ) to 1.2-1.25
cpu/nb llc to high,

set ALL current capabilities to 130%
cpu power duty control to current ( or w.e. the other option is idr off my head )
ALL power response controls to highest setting

and cpu/nb to 1.2-1.3 gonna have to test this. you may need more but i have yet to see one that did at the level of ram you are using

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LtStinger*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> . i keep my main chip at 2700 and my secondary @ 2600. the 2600 has *substantially less scores*.
> 
> 
> 
> That makes it sound like it would show some kind of noticeable improvement and not just for a benchie.
> 
> Although your ram is much faster than mine, and maybe that's where my improvement would not be so substantial. I believe that's what you're saying here.
> 
> Basically, keeping my CPU/NB stock is likely not to have a noticeable difference than if I improve my CPU/NB clock speeds, unless I'm benching for better scores. Real world difference won't matter with my setup. (6350, 1600 RAM) However with faster RAM speeds, (such as 2400 in your case) CPU/NB speeds will show a pretty good increase with a CPU/NB overclock, and maybe even something that is real world noticeable. It is dependent on your RAM and how fast you're running it in the first place. Just trying to echo what you're saying in different words to make sure it's coming across to me correctly.
Click to expand...

more or less. you want it more then your ram speed for best results. so at your speeds you may see a small increase in benches but not in RL even at mine i dont see huge gains in RL just in benches with such high cpu/nb
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> What does it mean fsb is mobo to cpu and ht is cpu to the rest? isn't fsb bidirectional and why 2 transportation?


what i am saying it is the speed that the cpu connects to the mobo. again this is laymens terms, for cpu speeds you multiplay fsb by ( your multiplier ) where "your multiplier" is HT, CPU/NB, CPU clock multi, ram multi, ect
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no FSB is NOT HT
> 
> FSB is front-side bus ( which is an often used incorrect term for amd. but meh it works ) and is the speed between the board and the cpu. this is actually *HyperTransport™ Reference Clock*
> 
> 
> 
> Lol.. I don't know how you can say that HT (hyper transport) is not FSB when your explaination points into it.
> 
> There is a big difference between HT and HT Link. So you might as well look at my post and your explanation before pointing into it as wrong.
> 
> Anyway, that explanation should clear a lot of misconceptions between the two.
> 
> You just pointed out to the wrong person.
Click to expand...

because no one here talks like that, when they say "ht" they mean ht link. when they say fsb they mean HTRC
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> You can also oc with a third-party tool. I prefer Amd turion control It's open source but the latest release is a bit old.


i will take bios over any program any time i can
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rig is pretty solid right now. See anything weird?


turn off turbo, stop matching cpu/nb and HT ( my opinion at least leave them at stock so you are not gimping your pc) as this was helpful on BD but not vishara !
dont overvolt SB you wont see any gains

again ONLY if you actively cool your vrms ( fan or watercooled VRMS )

CPU power phase control to extreme
set ALL current capabilities to 130%
cpu power duty control to current ( or w.e. the other option is idr off my head )
ALL power response controls to highest setting
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Well, up it some more. You should be able to do 2600 - 2700 on the CPU/NB which is more performance (increased cache performance). HT Link speed (bandwidth to the 990 NB) you can do crazy numbers like 3900 mhz, but not hardly any performance gain over 2600 unless using a high end triple gpu type setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 2600-2700 might be where the performance is, but there's also a difficulty stabilizing a CPU-NB past 2600.
Click to expand...

chip dependance i did not have any issues on mine


----------



## Recursion

>Megaman: i will take bios over any program any time i can
You can do a lot more with programs p-states, bulldozer conditionier, htc status, etc. I used it for oc but the original intentation is another. AMD overdrive is nice but a bit buggy, so I prefer Turion Power Control it's free but a bit old. Maybe I make my own when I have time and I know how to program the msr. It's not so difficult.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> because no one here talks like that, when they say "ht" they mean ht link. when they say fsb they mean HTRC


Well, I'm not one of them. You can argue some more but I never referenced HT for HT Link.

To put it into context,

"One Hundred" obviously wouldn't mean "One Hundred Dollar" is it? So HT without the LINK is not HT LINK. if that ain't clear enough, IDK anymore.
Quote:


> chip dependance i did not have any issues on mine


So if your CPU heats up a lot with added CPU-NB Voltage and MINE does not, isn't that Chip dependent as well? IIRC you're insisting on not adding CPU-NB Voltage just because yours heat up a lot with it. Where's the consistency?


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> finally home on wifi and can answer you, sorry for the delayed response but i was not gonna do this on my phone
> *Shut off turbo, all spread spectrums and dcop. manually enter all ram settings ( volts, main 4-5 timings, and speed. )
> adj ram voltage up a notch or two as it looks to be 1.65v ram and it is coming up short
> adj nb ( NOT cpu/nb ) to 1.2-1.25
> cpu/nb llc to high,
> 
> set ALL current capabilities to 130%
> cpu power duty control to current ( or w.e. the other option is idr off my head )
> ALL power response controls to highest setting
> 
> and cpu/nb to 1.2-1.3 gonna have to test this. you may need more but i have yet to see one that did at the level of ram you are using*
> more or less. you want it more then your ram speed for best results. so at your speeds you may see a small increase in benches but not in RL even at mine i dont see huge gains in RL just in benches with such high cpu/nb
> what i am saying it is the speed that the cpu connects to the mobo. again this is laymens terms, for cpu speeds you multiplay fsb by ( your multiplier ) where "your multiplier" is HT, CPU/NB, CPU clock multi, ram multi, ect
> because no one here talks like that, when they say "ht" they mean ht link. when they say fsb they mean HTRC
> i will take bios over any program any time i can
> turn off turbo, stop matching cpu/nb and HT ( my opinion at least leave them at stock so you are not gimping your pc) as this was helpful on BD but not vishara !
> dont overvolt SB you wont see any gains
> 
> again ONLY if you actively cool your vrms ( fan or watercooled VRMS )
> 
> CPU power phase control to extreme
> set ALL current capabilities to 130%
> cpu power duty control to current ( or w.e. the other option is idr off my head )
> ALL power response controls to highest setting
> chip dependance i did not have any issues on mine


Winsat now says 22.1GB/s but heres the odd part every other memory benchmark says 28.9GB/s which one do i believe?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Winsat now says 22.1GB/s but heres the odd part every other memory benchmark says 28.9GB/s which one do i believe?


Just different scoring algorithms..

Just note them so your keeping yourself on track doing all these.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> turn off turbo, stop matching cpu/nb and HT ( my opinion at least leave them at stock so you are not gimping your pc) as this was helpful on BD but not vishara !
> dont overvolt SB you wont see any gains
> 
> again ONLY if you actively cool your vrms ( fan or watercooled VRMS )
> 
> CPU power phase control to extreme
> set ALL current capabilities to 130%
> cpu power duty control to current ( or w.e. the other option is idr off my head )
> ALL power response controls to highest setting
> chip dependance i did not have any issues on mine


Cool. I'll look into this.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Just different scoring algorithms..
> 
> Just note them so your keeping yourself on track doing all these.


Oh yeah that makes sense to me.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Just different scoring algorithms..
> 
> Just note them so your keeping yourself on track doing all these.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah that makes sense to me.
Click to expand...

just dont use maxxmem so off it isnt even funny personally i use adia64 but it comes at a price ( not free )


Spoiler: now that i have time and bandwidth here are some photos



seriously hotel wifi sucks !~ if i was in the states i would just use my phone tethering ...


----------



## philhalo66

so i went ahead and bought aida64 and this was my result


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> so i went ahead and bought aida64 and this was my result


not bad some minor voltage should bring up some of those scores, but they look normal to me.

if you add .005-.01v to the 1.8v ( NB 1.8v ) it will help to stabilize the fsb, DO NOT add too much as it will then over shoot and instead of running at the intended speeds it will run at a way faster FSB, i have seen it increase as much as 50 ( meaning if i was running 200, you would see it at 250 ) it wont take much. by stabilize i mean you wont see as much fsb fluctuation

being that those are 4gb sticks you can crank out some nice numbers, but ram is a pain to mess with and really just takes some trial and error and also at stock timings ( very loose ) you might be at your limit you can always try 10-12-12-31-43 but no guarantees it will work


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> just dont use maxxmem so off it isnt even funny personally i use adia64 but it comes at a price ( not free )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: now that i have time and bandwidth here are some photos
> 
> 
> 
> seriously hotel wifi sucks !~ if i was in the states i would just use my phone tethering ...


Maxxmem is for Intel Fanboys. (Hey, I'm on Intel, look at my MAXXMEM Score!! Your AMD sucks, look at your MAXXMEM)

Good numbers there.

Is this done on SaberKitty?


----------



## Mega Man

no those are from my ud7


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no those are from my ud7


I thought so.

Got me wondering for a second how you managed to get your frequencies rounded to whole numbers.

Any idea to minimize this FSB overshoot on the kitty?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no those are from my ud7
> 
> 
> 
> I thought so.
> 
> Got me wondering for a second how you managed to get your frequencies rounded to whole numbers.
> 
> Any idea to minimize this FSB overshoot on the kitty?
Click to expand...

you can do the same if not better on the saberkitty, esp as it actually has the 2400 memory multi
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> *if you add .005-.01v to the 1.8v ( NB 1.8v ) it will help to stabilize the fsb, DO NOT add too much as it will then over shoot and instead of running at the intended speeds it will run at a way faster FSB, i have seen it increase as much as 50 ( meaning if i was running 200, you would see it at 250 ) it wont take much. by stabilize i mean you wont see as much fsb fluctuation*


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you can do the same if not better on the saberkitty, esp as it actually has the 2400 memory multi


Not that kind of overshoot. 200 running as 201.9ish...and target speeds 4800 runs 4860 on windows.

And yeah, 2000 on my RAM can come close your 2400 at 4,8..kinda..


----------



## Mega Man

you can try lowering the voltage as well. but i never have worried about being that specific


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you can try lowering the voltage as well. but i never have worried about being that specific


my OCDish..lol

Never expected it to be shooting more than 1.5MHz on the FSB TBH..

But yeah, will be putting up a loop in coming couple of weeks so I can try bumping this girl til it bleeds....


----------



## philhalo66

I think i killed my MoBo or something.
So earlier i ripped apart my rig because the CPU fan was caked with dust.
i cleaned it out redid the T.I.M on the NB and reassembled the system and cleared the CMOS.
Everything worked till i loaded up skyrim and half the menu was missing.
So i tried to reboot and boom all of a sudden i cannot get past the windows logo no matter what i do even on stock clocks it wont boot past it.
i just put the memory back in slot A1 and B1 (where i had it before) and it booted perfectly but i don't know how long.

Please tell me i didn't fry my MoBo or something?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> I think i killed my MoBo or something.
> So earlier i ripped apart my rig because the CPU fan was caked with dust.
> i cleaned it out redid the T.I.M on the NB and reassembled the system and cleared the CMOS.
> Everything worked till i loaded up skyrim and half the menu was missing.
> So i tried to reboot and boom all of a sudden i cannot get past the windows logo no matter what i do even on stock clocks it wont boot past it.
> i just put the memory back in slot A1 and B1 (where i had it before) and it booted perfectly but i don't know how long.
> 
> Please tell me i didn't fry my MoBo or something?


You can look up the cause with the event viewer or with the bluescreenviewer.


----------



## LtStinger

Not an atypical thing IMO for a failed boot, unstable overclock or power fluctuation to cause a little data corruption in an OS drive. Sounds like you might just need a quick windows reinstall and you'll be up and fresh again.


----------



## mus1mus

Yes, sounds like an unstable OC, corrupted OS, or a combination of both..

Don't worry as long as you can post, you are fine on the physical end.


----------



## philhalo66

I'm fairly certan it was bad memory slots or something because now that I've switched my memory back to A1 and B1 i no longer have issues i been running prime95 for the past 7 hours so It cant be an unstable OC.

I do have one question though, Say i change the T.I.M on the NB/SB will that void my warranty?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> I'm fairly certan it was bad memory slots or something because now that I've switched my memory back to A1 and B1 i no longer have issues i been running prime95 for the past 7 hours so It cant be an unstable OC.
> 
> I do have one question though, Say i change the T.I.M on the NB/SB will that void my warranty?


One thing I never forget to do when pulling a system apart is clearing CMOS by removing the battery. Things like memory slots issues randomly occur after doing things like cleaning and stuff..

Also, not an Asus rep but, I saw a video once where Jay-jay was asked the same kinda question. "Will replacing motherboard heatsinks with water blocks void the warranty?"

He said: "Asus is flexible enough with their warranty. As long as there's no physical damaged caused by bad practice of doing such"..

So maybe.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> One thing I never forget to do when pulling a system apart is clearing CMOS by removing the battery. Things like memory slots issues randomly occur after doing things like cleaning and stuff..
> 
> Also, not an Asus rep but, I saw a video once where Jay-jay was asked the same kinda question. "Will replacing motherboard heatsinks with water blocks void the warranty?"
> 
> He said: "Asus is flexible enough with their warranty. As long as there's no physical damaged caused by bad practice of doing such"..
> 
> So maybe.


I already tried that. It was working fine all day yesterday and now its acting weird again.
This time i noticed when it hangs at the windows boot logo the HDD LED flashes but not like it should it's like this - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - and the system is locked up and when i do a hard shutdown it wont post till i power it off.
I reinstalled windows and it's still doing it.
I just reseated everything and put the memory in A2 B2 i hope its solved whatever the issue was.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> He said: "Asus is flexible enough with their warranty. As long as there's no physical damaged caused by bad practice of doing such"..
> 
> So maybe.


Yeah, as long as you dont break or kink the heatpipe that goes from the vrm sink to the nb sink and do a professional job on the TIM, I wouldnt think there would any issues.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> I already tried that. It was working fine all day yesterday and now its acting weird again.
> This time i noticed when it hangs at the windows boot logo the HDD LED flashes but not like it should it's like this - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - and the system is locked up and when i do a hard shutdown it wont post till i power it off.
> I reinstalled windows and it's still doing it.
> I just reseated everything and put the memory in A2 B2 i hope its solved whatever the issue was.


Raised hand question here what TIM did you use. Thanks


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Raised hand question here what TIM did you use. Thanks


Tuniq TX-4 the first time the second time (today) i used arctic Silver Ceramique 2


----------



## SwishaMane

What is the stock TIM on NB / VRM heatsink? Pink goo?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> What is the stock TIM on NB / VRM heatsink? Pink goo?


Not sure about the NB, but the VRM has a pad..


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> What is the stock TIM on NB / VRM heatsink? Pink goo?


i believe it's some kind of heat conducting silicone but i could be wrong


----------



## Mega Man

Thermal pad.


----------



## SwishaMane

Oh thats it? Figured they would use pink goo. Good, mebbe Ill upgrade my paste sometime then, ha ha.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Oh thats it? Figured they would use pink goo. Good, mebbe Ill upgrade my paste sometime then, ha ha.


For the VRM? You're better off with the stock PADS.

For the chipset, maybe. But the stock config of the kitty is so good cooling the NB and the VRMs I should say.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> For the VRM? You're better off with the stock PADS.


Because of manufacturing tolerances, the height of any individual vrm chip could vary, so thats why they use a Thermal Pad. If using paste, a little more than necessary has to be applied, and for obvious reasons the paste has to be non conductive.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Because of manufacturing tolerances, the height of any individual vrm chip could vary, so thats why they use a Thermal Pad. If using paste, a little more than necessary has to be applied, and for obvious reasons the paste has to be non conductive.


I figured the VRMs used thermal pads. I assumed the NB was pink goo. I would never use paste on VRMs. My main concern was NB. But realistically, you guys are right, the cooling effect of this board (with help of active cooling) is plenty. I really just wanted to change paste on NB to re-seat the cooler, and use better paste and get a slight improvement.

I'll just forget about it tho, stock seems to do good enough.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I figured the VRMs used thermal pads. I assumed the NB was pink goo. I would never use paste on VRMs. My main concern was NB. But realistically, you guys are right, the cooling effect of this board (with help of active cooling) is plenty. I really just wanted to change paste on NB to re-seat the cooler, and use better paste and get a slight improvement.
> 
> I'll just forget about it tho, stock seems to do good enough.


A fan would be better IMO.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> A fan would be better IMO.


Thats what I got now. With my tech station, and the location of my fan, I have one AP-15 cooling the NB, VRMS, SB, AND RAM on my board. Good configuration, lol

You can actually see it in my avatar pic. All the way to right, there sthat little AP-15 firing right onto the board. Slight upward angle on accident, but w/e.


----------



## Falmod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> Hey guys. Does anyone know if the serial number for my sabertooth is anywhere on the board itself as I need to RMA and lost the box in a house fire. Thanks


UPDATE: Ok so I have finally had the time to take a look at my board and have found a few numbers here but cant figure out which one is the serial number exactly. Does anyone have a picture of what i am looking for exactly. I have found 1 yellow sticker and a white one. I can post pics if needed







Thanks


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> UPDATE: Ok so I have finally had the time to take a look at my board and have found a few numbers here but cant figure out which one is the serial number exactly. Does anyone have a picture of what i am looking for exactly. I have found 1 yellow sticker and a white one. I can post pics if needed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


i think you may be out of luck man it says on the asus website its only on the box

Please check the exterior package box for sticker label.
The serial number is a string of numbers listed after the word "Serial No :"


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> i think you may be out of luck man it says on the asus website its only on the box
> 
> Please check the exterior package box for sticker label.
> The serial number is a string of numbers listed after the word "Serial No :"


That may not be so. I RMA'd my board just few weeks ago and it is on the board. Mine is located on the PCI slot. But I have a Rev. 2.0 board. Still, you may want to look there.


----------



## Falmod

Any chance you could post a pic up for me bro. You can obviously cover the actual number of course. Just really so I know exactly what I'm looking for


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> Any chance you could post a pic up for me bro. You can obviously cover the actual number of course. Just really so I know exactly what I'm looking for


this is the revision 2.0 so keep that in mind


----------



## Falmod

Will do thanks again for the pic







Will take a look throughout my mobo and get back asap


----------



## [email protected]

Guys, can anyone give me an idea how can i cool the vrm's? Does 80mm fan work?

How about this: http://store.antec.com/Product/cooling-cooling_fan/SpotCool-100/0-761345-75050-9.aspx


----------



## Tater00nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Guys, can anyone give me an idea how can i cool the vrm's? Does 80mm fan work?
> 
> How about this: http://store.antec.com/Product/cooling-cooling_fan/SpotCool-100/0-761345-75050-9.aspx


I think there's a few people using a Spot Cool on their VRMs.


----------



## Pudfark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Guys, can anyone give me an idea how can i cool the vrm's? Does 80mm fan work?
> 
> How about this: http://store.antec.com/Product/cooling-cooling_fan/SpotCool-100/0-761345-75050-9.aspx


I'm using an Antec spotfan on my vrm's for the last year and it works well. I also have a 80mm fan on the back of my board pointed at the cpu.
Do both...if ya got a AMD 8300 series CPU and plan to overclock.


----------



## Jflisk

I use the antec spot cool also works like a charm.


----------



## Pill Monster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes i did, stock cpu/nb is 1.1 for most 1.2v is plenty, if not excessive
> 
> 
> 
> He's on 2400, not stock.. Also, it may be chip dependent. Yet to be proven. But,..
> 
> Mine doesn't make any significant temperature effects giving it 1.25 or 1.35 at 2500 with same Core frequency and Core Voltage.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 99% of chips can hit 2600 on 1.2v
Click to expand...

That is complete bollocks. I'll prob get flamed for this but I'd love to see u find a single Vishera that can hit 2600mhz at 1.2v.

These aren't Phenom II chips, things are lot different with BD/PD..... btw 1.21v VID is not the same as actual voltage if that's what you're thinking.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pill Monster*
> 
> That is complete bollocks. I'll prob get flamed for this but I'd love to see u find a single Vishera that can hit 2600mhz at 1.2v.
> 
> These aren't Phenom II chips, things are lot different with BD/PD..... btw 1.21v VID is not the same as actual voltage if that's what you're thinking.


ok, no flaming, but I hit 2600 under 1.2 vid for cpu/nb. 2700 seems to be a bit of a strain though.... I hesitate to even say this because I know how easy it is to just "say" it, and I don't have "proof" on hand right now... and since I'm getting ready for work I'm not bothering to go into bios and change it just to get proof. Due to my use of bus speed and multi OC'ing I have some odd 25xx speed atm @ 1.18 volts on cpu/nb.


----------



## Pill Monster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pill Monster*
> 
> That is complete bollocks. I'll prob get flamed for this but I'd love to see u find a single Vishera that can hit 2600mhz at 1.2v.
> 
> These aren't Phenom II chips, things are lot different with BD/PD..... btw 1.21v VID is not the same as actual voltage if that's what you're thinking.
> 
> 
> 
> ok, no flaming, but I hit 2600 under 1.2 vid for cpu/nb. 2700 seems to be a bit of a strain though.... I hesitate to even say this because I know how easy it is to just "say" it, and I don't have "proof" on hand right now... and since I'm getting ready for work I'm not bothering to go into bios and change it just to get proof. Due to my use of bus speed and multi OC'ing I have some odd 25xx speed atm @ 1.18 volts on cpu/nb.
Click to expand...

Yep I believe you, but unfortunately NB/VID has no correlation to actual voltage. It's just a number embedded in the CPU registers telling the vrm's how much power is required when first installed at stock clocks or after cmos is reset. Once u start overclocking, using offsets, vdroop or dynamic p-states it doesn't mean a thing.

Here's a shot of my own rig...if this was my real CPU/NB voltage I would be over the moon...but it's not..


----------



## [email protected]

@Pill Monster;

I have 8320, too but at 4.8GHz CPU is throttling because of VRM's i think (1.5v) so can you share ur bios settings with me? Digi+ VRM settings etc.

Thank you.


----------



## Pill Monster

Sure no problem, would u like a screenshot.?









Probably dumb question but do you have APM Master and turbo core disabled? Or at least HPC turned on?


----------



## [email protected]

Yea, i would.

Of course, all enery saving features are disabled and HPC is turned on.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pill Monster*
> 
> Yep I believe you, but unfortunately NB/VID has no correlation to actual voltage. It's just a number embedded in the CPU registers telling the vrm's how much power is required when first installed at stock clocks or after cmos is reset. Once u start overclocking, using offsets, vdroop or dynamic p-states it doesn't mean a thing.
> 
> Here's a shot of my own rig...if this was my real CPU/NB voltage I would be over the moon...but it's not..


my 6300 does 2600MHz NB without any voltage increse so...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pill Monster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes i did, stock cpu/nb is 1.1 for most 1.2v is plenty, if not excessive
> 
> 
> 
> He's on 2400, not stock.. Also, it may be chip dependent. Yet to be proven. But,..
> 
> Mine doesn't make any significant temperature effects giving it 1.25 or 1.35 at 2500 with same Core frequency and Core Voltage.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 99% of chips can hit 2600 on 1.2v
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That is complete bollocks. I'll prob get flamed for this but I'd love to see u find a single Vishera that can hit 2600mhz at 1.2v.
> 
> These aren't Phenom II chips, things are lot different with BD/PD..... btw 1.21v VID is not the same as actual voltage if that's what you're thinking.
Click to expand...




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pill Monster*
> 
> That is complete bollocks. I'll prob get flamed for this but I'd love to see u find a single Vishera that can hit 2600mhz at 1.2v.
> 
> These aren't Phenom II chips, things are lot different with BD/PD..... btw 1.21v VID is not the same as actual voltage if that's what you're thinking.
> 
> 
> 
> ok, no flaming, but I hit 2600 under 1.2 vid for cpu/nb. 2700 seems to be a bit of a strain though.... I hesitate to even say this because I know how easy it is to just "say" it, and I don't have "proof" on hand right now... and since I'm getting ready for work I'm not bothering to go into bios and change it just to get proof. Due to my use of bus speed and multi OC'ing I have some odd 25xx speed atm @ 1.18 volts on cpu/nb.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pill Monster*
> 
> Yep I believe you, but unfortunately NB/VID has no correlation to actual voltage. It's just a number embedded in the CPU registers telling the vrm's how much power is required when first installed at stock clocks or after cmos is reset. Once u start overclocking, using offsets, vdroop or dynamic p-states it doesn't mean a thing.
> 
> Here's a shot of my own rig...if this was my real CPU/NB voltage I would be over the moon...but it's not..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my 6300 does 2600MHz NB without any voltage increse so...
Click to expand...





no flaming
here are 2... yes 2 ... one even has screens

and NO i was not talking about vid. even with 8gb dimms i can easily hit 2600 with 1.2-1.25v cpu/nb. again 8gb dimms and 4 dimms are much much more stressful on the imc, let alone combining both

i standby my statement


----------



## mus1mus

@philhalo66

Mate, you don't really need a CPUNB Voltage bump.. 1.45 at stock??

Hmm


----------



## Mega Man

yes mus1mus in some ( older to my last knowledge ) bios the cpu/nb was ~ 1.4v at stock. which is why i tell people not to leave it at auto


----------



## Magic Sjefke

Just fired up my sabertooth and I already loving it

http://valid.x86.fr/dydafj

please sign me up


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magic Sjefke*
> 
> Just fired up my sabertooth and I already loving it
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/dydafj
> 
> please sign me up


Sweet mane! Welcome, this board go beast-mode...


----------



## Magic Sjefke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Sweet mane! Welcome, this board go beast-mode...


Thank you..I just started to play around with the bios settings but I'm really glad with the stock voltage of my FX6300 @1,212V
Hope to join the +1GHz club soon


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magic Sjefke*
> 
> Just fired up my sabertooth and I already loving it
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/dydafj
> 
> please sign me up


Welcome to the club


----------



## Mega Man

Yes welcome!


----------



## philhalo66

I have a quick question. Why does my system UEFI sometimes report 1.45V for the CPU/NB but other times it says something like 1.17V? its random and i'm not sure what to make of it.


----------



## Synister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magic Sjefke*
> 
> Thank you..I just started to play around with the bios settings but I'm really glad with the stock voltage of my FX6300 @1,212V
> Hope to join the +1GHz club soon


I hope you're going to drop the 8350 into the kitty for a whirl also?


----------



## Mega Man

i really dont know that answer sorry :/


----------



## Magic Sjefke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synister*
> 
> I hope you're going to drop the 8350 into the kitty for a whirl also?


That will be after the updates I have planned for the 8350. I recently updated the cooler and I was on a thight budget so I installed the H55 from Corsair..compared to the TX3 Evo the cooling performance is nice but on the long run stress test I'm getting to close to the 70C with the H55..I think I'm gonna install the H100i or Swiftech H220 and also upgrade the mobo to the Sabertooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Welcome to the club


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes welcome!


Thanks guys


----------



## THC Butterz

I am having the itch to grab a 8350 again after reading a bunch of this thread, its just been a war in my head trying to justify spending another 200 on a cpu when my 1090t is already a monster @4.3ghz with 3100 cpu/nb 24/7... my mind and wallet hate each other right now


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> I am having the itch to grab a 8350 again after reading a bunch of this thread, its just been a war in my head trying to justify spending another 200 on a cpu when my 1090t is already a monster @4.3ghz with 3100 cpu/nb 24/7... my mind and wallet hate each other right now


Make it easy on yourself. You've already acknowledged the 1090t is a beast, why "waste" $200 on an upgrade that's going to be mildly noticeable. UNLESS... You sell the 1090t after getting the 8350, THEN use the spare scratch to get twice as much RAM AND at a faster speed, like 2133 or something. Depends what you have now.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> I am having the itch to grab a 8350 again asomeer reading a bunch of this thread, its just been a war in my head trying to justify spending another 200 on a cpu when my 1090t is already a monster @4.3ghz with 3100 cpu/nb 24/7... my mind and wallet hate each other right now
> 
> 
> 
> Make it easy on yourself. You've already acknowledged the 1090t is a beast, why "waste" $200 on an upgrade that's going to be mildly noticeable. UNLESS... You sell the 1090t after getting the 8350, THEN use the spare scratch to get twice as much RAM AND at a faster speed, like 2133 or something. Depends what you have now.
Click to expand...

The only reason I'm holding on to the 1090 is single core performance, as fewer and fewer aps are written for single core these days has me wanting the extra 2 threads... if I make the jump, ill send my 1090t out in a blaze of ln2 glory and earn some points for the ocn hwbot team


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> The only reason I'm holding on to the 1090 is single core performance, as fewer and fewer aps are written for single core these days has me wanting the extra 2 threads... if I make the jump, ill send my 1090t out in a blaze of ln2 glory and earn some points for the ocn hwbot team


Once you get past 5.0 GHz,single core performance deficit of an FX to the phenom gets evened if not surpassed and multi threading capability gets a lot of ground..


----------



## Synister

All be it I only had my 1090T @ 3.8 GHz but with 3 GHz CPU/NB and with my 8320 @ 4.4 GHz stock CPU/NB I feel the difference dramatically.


----------



## toppas

Hey!
I've got my R2 running with a FX-8320. Regardless of the disabled spread spectrum the base clock varies about 3MHz from the appointed value.
At 25x multiplier this means a change in cpu clock rate up to 75MHz.
Anyone else noticed such bevaiour? I remember my former boards (P55, 790FX) the base clock was dead steady.


----------



## Synister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toppas*
> 
> Hey!
> I've got my R2 running with a FX-8320. Regardless of the disabled spread spectrum the base clock varies about 3MHz from the appointed value.
> At 25x multiplier this means a change in cpu clock rate up to 75MHz.
> Anyone else noticed such bevaiour? I remember my former boards (P55, 790FX) the base clock was dead steady.


I believe it's a trait of the ASUS Mobos, all of mine have ran with 3 MHz + on the base clock. You can stabilize it by adding 0.005 to 0.01 V to your 1.8V NB


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toppas*
> 
> Hey!
> I've got my R2 running with a FX-8320. Regardless of the disabled spread spectrum the base clock varies about 3MHz from the appointed value.
> At 25x multiplier this means a change in cpu clock rate up to 75MHz.
> Anyone else noticed such bevaiour? I remember my former boards (P55, 790FX) the base clock was dead steady.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synister*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *toppas*
> 
> Hey!
> I've got my R2 running with a FX-8320. Regardless of the disabled spread spectrum the base clock varies about 3MHz from the appointed value.
> At 25x multiplier this means a change in cpu clock rate up to 75MHz.
> Anyone else noticed such bevaiour? I remember my former boards (P55, 790FX) the base clock was dead steady.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe it's a trait of the ASUS Mobos, all of mine have ran with 3 MHz + on the base clock. You can stabilize it by adding 0.005 to 0.01 V to your 1.8V NB
Click to expand...

Although very true. I would not worry about adding volts unless fsb ocing however it is a trait of all mobos. Intel or amd.


----------



## toppas

Well, changing the voltage didn't do the trick.
Anyhow it doesn't seem to bring any problems. It just gave me a headache while overclockling the CPU. There is a range between 4.9 and 5GHz where my FX-8320 claims a plus of almost 0,1v to stay "alive". So it's kinda annoying that you have to add extra volts because your CPU jumps around 75MHz.


----------



## Mega Man

have you added 0.005 to 0.01 v to the voltage that is 1.8v in bios ( i can never remember the name )

also to not, there is a voltage wall @ 4.7~4.8 that will keep increasing the higher you go, this is normal. sounds like you can boot at that voltage but you are not stable to me


----------



## toppas

It's called NB 1.8v like synister said.
I am stable now with 1.548 volts but I think I would need less volts if the base clocks wouldn't jump around. I could lower it by some MHz to cap the CPU at 5GHz so it's no big deal actually. During stability tests it fails most of the time when the base clock peaks at 201-202MHz.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toppas*
> 
> It's called NB 1.8v like synister said.
> I am stable now with 1.548 volts but I think I would need less volts if the base clocks wouldn't jump around. I could lower it by some MHz to cap the CPU at 5GHz so it's no big deal actually. During stability tests it fails most of the time when the base clock peaks at 201-202MHz.


Try what Mega said..

Also try raising the FSB and lowering the multi to see if that will keep it from jumping too much that way you can pin point it better


----------



## mus1mus

Did a bit of testing last night. About these swings. My FSB goes up to 1.9 MHz from the value I set on the Bios.

Target CPU Frequency and Current CPU Frequency on the BIOS differs a lot by up to 80MHz max.
i.e
Target CPU Frequency - 4806MHz (267 FSB X 18 Multi)
Current CPU Frequency - 4886MHz
that is with;

Spread Spectrum - Auto
CPU VDDA - 2.7 Volts
NB - 1.25 Volts
NB 1.8V - 1.85 Volts
HPC Mode - On
EPU Power Saving - OFF

At Windows, It will read as 4.83 GHz but during stress testing with Aida64, it will go as high as 4.89 GHz. My cooling can only keep up up to 1.500 Volts and 4.85+ requires more than 1.52 Volts. So yeah, I'm unstable. Aida can only run 2 minutes to warn me about being unstable.

Tried a lot of testing to drop that FSB swings. I came up with these:

Spread Spectrum - ON
HPC Mode - OFF
CPU VDDA - 2.8 Volts
NB - 1.212 Volts
NB 1.8 - 2.0 Volts
EPU Power Saving - ON

Same CPU Frequency Settings at;

Current CPU Frequency went down to 4.845 GHz
Target CPU Speed at 4.806 GHz
267 FSB X 18 Multi
CPU NB - 2403
RAM at 2133 10-12-10 1.7 Volts

At windows, It never went higher than 4.84 GHz with a minimum of 4.822 GHz for the duration of 3.5 Hours AIDA run. Temps were even cooler in my observation but I'd call it margin of error in an uncontrolled environment. But it did solve my Frequency swings.

Will try more tweaks and see where things go later.


----------



## simsim44

awesome info, thanks for sharing


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> awesome info, thanks for sharing


Sure.. No Biggie.. I myself was haunted by these swings so sharing these info would be helpful to others who suffer the same issue. But take note, this is a limited testing. Will require a bit more testing TBH. But yeah, 3.5 Hours of AIDA 64 without warnings vs 2 minutes to produce a warning seems a lot. Right?


----------



## omarshariff

Hi all,

I am in a bit of a bind.
I am trying to raid 2x 256 SSDs into a raid 0 drive.
I have downloaded the latest drivers from Asus but I am not able to install Win7 x64 on to the drives.

I know I am doing something wrong here but I am not able to figure this trouble out.
I set ports 1-4 into SATA and load using legacy ROM. I get the CTRL + F option to set the drives to raid.
When trying to install the drivers, the warning is I am not using signed drivers.
The option given is to load 32 bit drivers, which I do and it proceeds. I can see the drive. When I try to install the OS, it doesnt allow me stating it is unable to install it using unstable driver.

The next option is to test out the UEFI drivers.
I am not entirely sure about this process. I did read a post here to about how to make it UEFI but did not take too much notice of it.

Currently I am using a Asus Sabertooth 990FX with a 6100FX.
Any help/advise would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omarshariff*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I am in a bit of a bind.
> I am trying to raid 2x 256 SSDs into a raid 0 drive.
> I have downloaded the latest drivers from Asus but I am not able to install Win7 x64 on to the drives.
> 
> I know I am doing something wrong here but I am not able to figure this trouble out.
> I set ports 1-4 into SATA and load using legacy ROM. I get the CTRL + F option to set the drives to raid.
> When trying to install the drivers, the warning is I am not using signed drivers.
> The option given is to load 32 bit drivers, which I do and it proceeds. I can see the drive. When I try to install the OS, it doesnt allow me stating it is unable to install it using unstable driver.
> 
> The next option is to test out the UEFI drivers.
> I am not entirely sure about this process. I did read a post here to about how to make it UEFI but did not take too much notice of it.
> 
> Currently I am using a Asus Sabertooth 990FX with a 6100FX.
> Any help/advise would be greatly appreciated.


32-bit driver for a 64bit OS RAID array?

I dont do RAID, but this seems to be my observation. Try the black sata ports with dedicated controller?


----------



## omarshariff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> 32-bit driver for a 64bit OS RAID array?
> 
> I dont do RAID, but this seems to be my observation. Try the black sata ports with dedicated controller?


Correct me if I'm wrong, but arent the black ports only 3GBps?


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> 32-bit driver for a 64bit OS RAID array?
> 
> I dont do RAID, but this seems to be my observation. Try the black sata ports with dedicated controller?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omarshariff*
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong, but arent the black ports only 3GBps?


Yes, the black ports are 3GBps and you cannot create a RAID array with those two ports. You can only make a RAID array with the 6 brown ports. The bad news is that they all have to be RAID or not! So you then create a RAID with 2 to 6 disks. Everything connected to the brown ports will be a part of the RAID.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Yes, the black ports are 3GBps and you cannot create a RAID array with those two ports. You can only make a RAID array with the 6 brown ports. The bad news is that they all have to be RAID or not! So you then create a RAID with 2 to 6 disks. Everything connected to the brown ports will be a part of the RAID.


Weird..

Never heard a thing about creating a raid on 2 ports affecting every port on a mobo..

Will have to try mine then..

Funny thing is that I spent around an hour on live office servers putting in drives to work as raid 1..

It was nerve cracking as those servers were running on and the instruction was very clear.. "Make sure you don't mess up the other VDs"..

Timestamps errors.. Arrgh.. Carelessness is a big NO!!


----------



## omarshariff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Yes, the black ports are 3GBps and you cannot create a RAID array with those two ports. You can only make a RAID array with the 6 brown ports. The bad news is that they all have to be RAID or not! So you then create a RAID with 2 to 6 disks. Everything connected to the brown ports will be a part of the RAID.


Yes, I have understood this but my initial problem is how do I create a raid 0 array on this board lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omarshariff*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I am in a bit of a bind.
> I am trying to raid 2x 256 SSDs into a raid 0 drive.
> I have downloaded the latest drivers from Asus but I am not able to install Win7 x64 on to the drives.
> 
> I know I am doing something wrong here but I am not able to figure this trouble out.
> I set ports 1-4 into SATA and load using legacy ROM. I get the CTRL + F option to set the drives to raid.
> When trying to install the drivers, the warning is I am not using signed drivers.
> The option given is to load 32 bit drivers, which I do and it proceeds. I can see the drive. When I try to install the OS, it doesnt allow me stating it is unable to install it using unstable driver.
> 
> The next option is to test out the UEFI drivers.
> I am not entirely sure about this process. I did read a post here to about how to make it UEFI but did not take too much notice of it.
> 
> Currently I am using a Asus Sabertooth 990FX with a 6100FX.
> Any help/advise would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Weird..
> 
> Never heard a thing about creating a raid on 2 ports affecting every port on a mobo..
> 
> Will have to try mine then..
> 
> Funny thing is that I spent around an hour on live office servers putting in drives to work as raid 1..
> 
> It was nerve cracking as those servers were running on and the instruction was very clear.. "Make sure you don't mess up the other VDs"..
> 
> Timestamps errors.. Arrgh.. Carelessness is a big NO!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omarshariff*
> 
> Yes, I have understood this but my initial problem is how do I create a raid 0 array on this board lol.


http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FX/HelpDesk_Manual/ Pick the one for English, if that is your preference. LOL!

Go to the section on RAID. Follow the directions. This is what I had to do.

Also go to support disk and follow instructions on how to make a driver disk. Or go to the support site and download the latest RAID driver. I installed mine from a USB Floppy Disk.

All the directions are there, though they are a bit vague.


----------



## omarshariff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FX/HelpDesk_Manual/ Pick the one for English, if that is your preference. LOL!
> 
> Go to the section on RAID. Follow the directions. This is what I had to do.
> 
> Also go to support disk and follow instructions on how to make a driver disk. Or go to the support site and download the latest RAID driver. I installed mine from a USB Floppy Disk.
> 
> All the directions are there, though they are a bit vague.


What was your bios when you raided?
Would that also mean that unless I am using a floppy to load the drivers it will not read/load?
Some posts indicated that loading the drivers on a thumb drive would work. I have tried loading it in the same thumb drive in a separate folder as well as use a different thumb drive. That does not seem to help. There are always 2 same scenarios I'm stumped with.

I am quite amazed that you managed to get the raid working with the instructions provided.
Just hitting Google up and you'd see several posts about the raid issues with this board.

I am considering another poster's idea at this point. To clone out the OS on my raided drives from a single drive.
It seems that its only an issue when installing a fresh new OS copy for some reason.


----------



## addz17

Hi, haven't been on here for a while but i just swapped out a 1090t for a 8350 on my R1.0 and am a little confused by the OC figures i've been getting after running prime95 for about 2hrs.

Cpu Mulit 23.5
CPU Bus 202
Cpu Voltage 1.4
NB 2400
NB voltage 1.21
HT Link 2600
DDR3 1.65v

So basically i'm running 4.75ghz and CPUID says i'm using 1.41v to do it while the cooler is struggling to keep this chip under 60 degrees at 1.41v where as the old thuban could be kept under 60 at 1.5v.
Should i try reseat my heatsink or is all this normal? lol
Oh and is Vcore-1 safe to be at 79 degrees? Cheers!


----------



## Minotaurtoo

the octo core series run very hot.. my 8350 needed special custom loop cooling to keep it cool over 1.45 volts... even with my 360mm x 120mm rad and 6 fans keeping it cool over 1.55 volts is a struggle. and your vcore-1 is a little warm, but I've been told its safe to 100C


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *addz17*
> 
> Hi, haven't been on here for a while but i just swapped out a 1090t for a 8350 on my R1.0 and am a little confused by the OC figures i've been getting after running prime95 for about 2hrs.
> 
> Cpu Mulit 23.5
> CPU Bus 202
> Cpu Voltage 1.4
> NB 2400
> NB voltage 1.21
> HT Link 2600
> DDR3 1.65v
> 
> So basically i'm running 4.75ghz and CPUID says i'm using 1.41v to do it while the cooler is struggling to keep this chip under 60 degrees at 1.41v where as the old thuban could be kept under 60 at 1.5v.
> Should i try reseat my heatsink or is all this normal? lol
> Oh and is Vcore-1 safe to be at 79 degrees? Cheers!


Stop comparing the FX to the Thuban. They're on different league. Core-Count, Transistor-Count, they are not the same.

Also note that, AMD have found out and raised the thermal threshold to 70-75 Degrees max Core temp for the FX. So you're still under control on the 60s.

Newer chips also seem to require less voltages at equal clocks to the older ones. But seems too, that they produce much higher Heat dump compared to the old ones.

Vcore-1 (though kitty has very good VRM Heatsinks and using quality components) will still work a lot to keep the power demand of the FX. A fan on the VRMs has been recommended over and over. Another on the Backside of the mobo is also suggested though not really required. But wouldnt hurt to have one.

Don't know a lot about rev 1, but LLC, Digi settings play a part on the VRM temps. Frequency especially.

All in all, wouldn't hurt to try the things people here recommend.


----------



## Magic Sjefke

Hi guys,

Does one of you know where I can set the xmp memory profile in the bios?
I went through the complete bios but wasn't able to find the option.

Currently the DRAM timmings are all on auto and don't know exactly which settings to change.

I have this set of RAM installed

http://www.corsair.com/se-fi/vengeance-pro-series-8gb-2-x-4gb-ddr3-dram-1866mhz-c9-memory-kit-cmy8gx3m2a1866c9b

Many thanks in advance for your support


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magic Sjefke*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Does one of you know where I can set the xmp memory profile in the bios?
> I went through the complete bios but wasn't able to find the option.
> 
> Currently the DRAM timmings are all on auto and don't know exactly which settings to change.
> 
> I have this set of RAM installed
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/se-fi/vengeance-pro-series-8gb-2-x-4gb-ddr3-dram-1866mhz-c9-memory-kit-cmy8gx3m2a1866c9b
> 
> Many thanks in advance for your support


AI Overclock Tuner.

Options are, Manual, Auto, XMP.

Edit, If you are fine with Multiplier OC, use XMP to load the XMP Profile of your RAM

Once you start touching the FSB, you'll need to manually enter the timings of your RAM..


----------



## Magic Sjefke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> AI Overclock Tuner.
> 
> Options are, Manual, Auto, XMP.
> 
> Edit, If you are fine with Multiplier OC, use XMP to load the XMP Profile of your RAM
> 
> Once you start touching the FSB, you'll need to manually enter the timings of your RAM..


thanks for your quick reply..I will change the setting


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magic Sjefke*
> 
> thanks for your quick reply..I will change the setting


You can post your results here to update everyone.


----------



## Magic Sjefke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You can post your results here to update everyone.


I have put in the settings manually as I was not able to select xmp in the memory frequency in the bios. For the moment I will stick to overclocking with the multuiplier.

For the moment I'm happy with the adjusted settings..the timmings were 10-11-11-28 and I have changed them to 9-10-9-27 which is xmp profile settings


----------



## Bun-ny

Hi everyone,

New BIOS 2501 FOR ASUS SABERTOOTH R2 Dated 14/5/14

http://support.asus.com/download.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=SABERTOOTH+990FX+R2.0&p=1&s=24&os=30&hashedid=Yk1gGoRISkgLawoj

Steve


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magic Sjefke*
> 
> I have put in the settings manually as I was not able to select xmp in the memory frequency in the bios. For the moment I will stick to overclocking with the multuiplier.
> 
> For the moment I'm happy with the adjusted settings..the timmings were 10-11-11-28 and I have changed them to 9-10-9-27 which is xmp profile settings


So you just switch to XMP on AI Overclocker to do that right?

When you decide to fine tune your system, you can still use your XMP profile but under Memory Timings , the board will automatically adjust the timings for you. (that's why I said stick to Multi at the moment)

You can still use the stock timings of your RAM using FSB and Multi Combo to OC the CPU but that will be limited by how much FSB your RAMs will allow on a certain set of timings. That being said, you can use the stock timings up to a certain point (FSB value) before you need to loosen or adjust the timings to match the frequency of the RAMs.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bun-ny*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> New BIOS 2501 FOR ASUS SABERTOOTH R2 Dated 14/5/15
> 
> http://support.asus.com/download.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=SABERTOOTH+990FX+R2.0&p=1&s=24&os=30&hashedid=Yk1gGoRISkgLawoj
> 
> Steve


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*


What does this do for Rev. 1.01?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> What does this do for Rev. 1.01?


Nothing!!!


----------



## Magic Sjefke

This is what I was able to set in the bios manually
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bun-ny*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> New BIOS 2501 FOR ASUS SABERTOOTH R2 Dated 14/5/14
> 
> http://support.asus.com/download.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=SABERTOOTH+990FX+R2.0&p=1&s=24&os=30&hashedid=Yk1gGoRISkgLawoj
> 
> Steve


Thanks for the notice:thumb:..just: flashed it to 2501 although I had no issues with usb devices


----------



## Magic Sjefke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> So you just switch to XMP on AI Overclocker to do that right?
> 
> When you decide to fine tune your system, you can still use your XMP profile but under Memory Timings , the board will automatically adjust the timings for you. (that's why I said stick to Multi at the moment)
> 
> You can still use the stock timings of your RAM using FSB and Multi Combo to OC the CPU but that will be limited by how much FSB your RAMs will allow on a certain set of timings. That being said, you can use the stock timings up to a certain point (FSB value) before you need to loosen or adjust the timings to match the frequency of the RAMs.


No I have put the xmp timings manually as I didn't see any xmp option in the bios menu's. I first gonna install some fans on the mobo backplate and vrm's before continuing oc'ing my rig. Although it is p95 and ibt stable @4,6GHz I noticed that it was starting the throttle a little during stresstesing. Vcore 1 was reacking 56C so needs some cooling before I proceed.


----------



## addz17

All normal figures then... Would i be fit to push further if i can get the VRM temp down a bit, its just i thought it was very strange hitting 4.7ghz with only 1.41v, ive seen people commonly using 1.45 or 1.48 to get there. Is the general consensus not to keep it under 62 degrees? Dont wanna fry it








What sort of state is the thermal interface for the VRMs on this board? Would reseating with a lot of MX4 slapped on benefit temps much, i'm sure someone here must have tried this already.


----------



## Alanthor

Suup, im also a owner of the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0. And regarding the VRM's, I have a _awesome_ cooling "system"!
You need:
A small fan, like a 80mm case fan or something.
Double-sided tape pads (Extra strong)
And a Sabertooth ^^

Just mount it up!







Haha My VRM's never gets over 50 degrees, and i am currently up at 4.4GHz with 1.404vcore idle. It probably bumps up when im playing, or I dont remember if I disabled that, lol.
Tho, I have switched the fans a lil, so the left fan och the pic, is now on the VRM's, and one fan blowing out rear case, CPU fan blowing left>rear case>out along the case fan I just mentioned. And then I have a stock CPU cooler from my CPU mounted in the old floppy-drive bracket. Just with some of that tape pads on the side of the fan ^^ Works like a charm ^^

http://i57.tinypic.com/2mgmkc9.jpg
http://i59.tinypic.com/2cfd4ja.jpg


----------



## hornedfrog86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alanthor*
> 
> Suup, im also a owner of the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0. And regarding the VRM's, I have a _awesome_ cooling "system"!
> You need:
> A small fan, like a 80mm case fan or something.
> Double-sided tape pads (Extra strong)
> And a Sabertooth ^^
> 
> Just mount it up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha My VRM's never gets over 50 degrees, and i am currently up at 4.4GHz with 1.404vcore idle. It probably bumps up when im playing, or I dont remember if I disabled that, lol.
> Tho, I have switched the fans a lil, so the left fan och the pic, is now on the VRM's, and one fan blowing out rear case, CPU fan blowing left>rear case>out along the case fan I just mentioned. And then I have a stock CPU cooler from my CPU mounted in the old floppy-drive bracket. Just with some of that tape pads on the side of the fan ^^ Works like a charm ^^
> 
> http://i57.tinypic.com/2mgmkc9.jpg
> http://i59.tinypic.com/2cfd4ja.jpg


Thanks so much! Just what I needed to see. I'll give it a go.


----------



## Alanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hornedfrog86*
> 
> Thanks so much! Just what I needed to see. I'll give it a go.


Np maan!







Im currently at 4.62GHz, and with DIGI+ settings as the guide on AMD Piledriver//bulldozer got.

I had a fatal error tho in P95 15minutes full FFT bla bla, said ILLEGAL SUMOUT, possible hardware failure.

But I increased the VCORE a notch, and it seems to work. I havent done a stability test properly yet, but it'll come =) Current VCORE 1.428. Got a AMD FX-4300

Edit - Oh and eh... Really make sure, for real, that your double-sided pads will do it, or whatever u get for mount thing, make sure that it cant fall off and damage the graphic card. Just use your imagination to create something ^^ OR.. U could have the PC laying down ^^

And btw, get SpeedFan. I suppose your fans is 4 pins? Get SpeedFan, and if u dont know how to setup so u can control all your fans incl CPU fan, give me a shout.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *addz17*
> 
> All normal figures then... Would i be fit to push further if i can get the VRM temp down a bit, its just i thought it was very strange hitting 4.7ghz with only 1.41v, ive seen people commonly using 1.45 or 1.48 to get there. Is the general consensus not to keep it under 62 degrees? Dont wanna fry it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What sort of state is the thermal interface for the VRMs on this board? Would reseating with a lot of MX4 slapped on benefit temps much, i'm sure someone here must have tried this already.


The VRMs use pads..

70 has been the limit since amd updated overdrive months ago.

Wouldn't hurt to try reseating your cooler.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alanthor*
> 
> Suup, im also a owner of the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0. And regarding the VRM's, I have a _awesome_ cooling "system"!
> You need:
> A small fan, like a 80mm case fan or something.
> Double-sided tape pads (Extra strong)
> And a Sabertooth ^^
> 
> Just mount it up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha My VRM's never gets over 50 degrees, and i am currently up at 4.4GHz with 1.404vcore idle. It probably bumps up when im playing, or I dont remember if I disabled that, lol.
> Tho, I have switched the fans a lil, so the left fan och the pic, is now on the VRM's, and one fan blowing out rear case, CPU fan blowing left>rear case>out along the case fan I just mentioned. And then I have a stock CPU cooler from my CPU mounted in the old floppy-drive bracket. Just with some of that tape pads on the side of the fan ^^ Works like a charm ^^
> 
> http://i57.tinypic.com/2mgmkc9.jpg
> http://i59.tinypic.com/2cfd4ja.jpg


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alanthor*
> 
> Np maan!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im currently at 4.62GHz, and with DIGI+ settings as the guide on AMD Piledriver//bulldozer got.
> 
> I had a fatal error tho in P95 15minutes full FFT bla bla, said ILLEGAL SUMOUT, possible hardware failure.
> 
> But I increased the VCORE a notch, and it seems to work. I havent done a stability test properly yet, but it'll come =) Current VCORE 1.428. Got a AMD FX-4300
> 
> Edit - Oh and eh... Really make sure, for real, that your double-sided pads will do it, or whatever u get for mount thing, make sure that it cant fall off and damage the graphic card. Just use your imagination to create something ^^ OR.. U could have the PC laying down ^^
> 
> And btw, get SpeedFan. I suppose your fans is 4 pins? Get SpeedFan, and if u dont know how to setup so u can control all your fans incl CPU fan, give me a shout.


Arrgh..

Your results won't apply to everyone. Especially with users using octa cores.

Mobo is well capable of higher clocks and voltages. Even with 8 cores.

Thought you're really up with something.. But quad cores and this board will never give you issues at those clocks and voltages..


----------



## Alanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Arrgh..
> 
> Your results won't apply to everyone. Especially with users using octa cores.
> 
> Mobo is well capable of higher clocks and voltages. Even with 8 cores.
> 
> Thought you're really up with something.. But quad cores and this board will never give you issues at those clocks and voltages..


Uhm... What? I gaved an advice on a alternate VRM cooling, and along with the advice, I included my progression... What is your point? :s

And if I go get a 8core CPU, automatical, you just cant mount a fan on the VRM's heatsinks as my little advice. Is that what you're saying?...


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alanthor*
> 
> Uhm... What? I gaved an advice on a alternate VRM cooling, and along with the advice, I included my progression... What is your point? :s
> 
> And if I go get a 8core CPU, automatical, you just cant mount a fan on the VRM's heatsinks as my little advice. Is that what you're saying?...


Nope, the board will be working as awesome in your case even without giving those VRMs additional cooling. And at 4.4, I'm saying you won't even face VRM issues TBH. You'd rather have your CPU cooling limit before the VRM as for that low clock..


----------



## Alanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Nope, the board will be working as awesome in your case even without giving those VRMs additional cooling. And at 4.4, I'm saying you won't even face VRM issues TBH. You'd rather have your CPU cooling limit before the VRM as for that low clock..


Wow... I dont know, maybe its just me but jeez u are cocky or somethng... My CPU temps are absolutely fine. ~50degrees celsius in prime95. And TBH, I wasnt at 4.4GHz.... I was at 4.6GHz.

General question,
I tryed to get 4.7GHz, but the pc went really really slow, and crashes in a few seconds if I launch any program. No BSOD or something, the system just hungs... The screen is still on, but its freezed. Any direction of cause?

And in BIOS, The cpu voltage value went yellow when I increased it abit.. What does that mean?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alanthor*
> 
> Wow... I dont know, maybe its just me but jeez u are cocky or somethng... My CPU temps are absolutely fine. ~50degrees celsius in prime95. And TBH, I wasnt at 4.4GHz.... I was at 4.6GHz.


lol..

4.6 with a quad core, on a Saberkitty? hit 50s?

I won't call that progress babe.









at 4.6, 8320, 1.44 volts, Saberkitty, VRM can't hit 60 degrees, Cores can't hit 60s degrees all these done on AIR, with 30+ Ambients.

So yeah, I'm cocky.








Quote:


> General question,
> I tryed to get 4.7GHz, but the pc went really really slow, and crashes in a few seconds if I launch any program. No BSOD or something, the system just hungs... The screen is still on, but its freezed. Any direction of cause?
> 
> And in BIOS, The cpu voltage value went yellow when I increased it abit.. What does that mean?


Not enough Voltage.


----------



## Alanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> lol..
> 
> 4.6 with a quad core, on a Saberkitty? hit 50s?
> 
> I won't call that progress babe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at 4.6, 8320, 1.44 volts, Saberkitty, VRM can't hit 60 degrees, Cores can't hit 60s degrees all these done on AIR, with 30+ Ambients.
> 
> So yeah, I'm cocky.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not enough Voltage.


I hate to say this, but I guess you know your thing, haha... But according to Thermal Radar, it was at 60celsius in prime95 without the fan. Now it's 30ish with the fan in full speed.
YES! It is progress got damnit







From 3.8 to 4.7GHz







Tho, I havent managed to get it stable in P95 longer than 10minutes xD I returned BIOS to default now, gonna restart the whole process..

And what?? Not enough Voltage, wow... That's crazy, but maybe its right... Tho, I had 1.46vcore in 4.7.. Should I bump the voltage even more? The values are getting yellow in BIOS









And btw, when I say VRM, I mean my VCORE1 sensor, but it is VRM practically. And btw, I have a FX-4300, not 8320.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alanthor*
> 
> I hate to say this, but I guess you know your thing, haha... But according to Thermal Radar, it was at 60celsius in prime95 without the fan. Now it's 30ish with the fan in full speed.


How'd you managed to run your system without the fans turning?? LOL

but I wouldn't trust it reading 30 on the cores. Nope. AMD doesn't have physical sensors on the cores. They generate Temp values by algorithm that proves to be accurate once nearing their limits. 50s and up..
Quote:


> YES! It is progress got damnit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From 3.8 to 4.7GHz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tho, I havent managed to get it stable in P95 longer than 10minutes xD I returned BIOS to default now, gonna restart the whole process..
> 
> And what?? Not enough Voltage, wow... That's crazy, but maybe its right... Tho, I had 1.46vcore in 4.7.. Should I bump the voltage even more? The values are getting yellow in BIOS


Voltage wall happens around 4.7 and up. Meaning, You'll need more Vcore to jump by a certain amount of Frequency than you need on lower clocks.
For example: I can get around up to 4.6 by adding just a tiny bit of Vcore. (+0.050 from stock) But requires +0.100 to get to 4.7 and worse, +0.200 to 4.8. And above that is a Hillclimb on the voltages.
Quote:


> And btw, when I say VRM, I mean my VCORE1 sensor, but it is VRM practically. And btw, I have a FX-4300, not 8320.


Yes, you are right on Vcore-1 as the VRM temps.

I know, you mentioned 4300









I gotta admit though, though your 4300 wont give the VRMs proper workouts, keeping them cool by a fan will always be a plus


----------



## Alanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> How'd you managed to run your system without the fans turning?? LOL
> 
> but I wouldn't trust it reading 30 on the cores. Nope. AMD doesn't have physical sensors on the cores. They generate Temp values by algorithm that proves to be accurate once nearing their limits. 50s and up..
> Voltage wall happens around 4.7 and up. Meaning, You'll need more Vcore to jump by a certain amount of Frequency than you need on lower clocks.
> For example: I can get around up to 4.6 by adding just a tiny bit of Vcore. (+0.050 from stock) But requires +0.100 to get to 4.7 and worse, +0.200 to 4.8. And above that is a Hillclimb on the voltages.
> Yes, you are right on Vcore-1 as the VRM temps.
> 
> I know, you mentioned 4300
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gotta admit though, though your 4300 wont give the VRMs proper workouts, keeping them cool by a fan will always be a plus


Ok, thanks for your help. My first through about you was like "What an *******, keep on bragging" hahaha. But that opinion has changed to the positive now








So, ima go for it.

About core sensor, the AMD core sensors are ****, completely ****crap****. They say all my cores are 8celsius, lol. So I only monitor my temps with Thermal Radar from now on. I've checked HWMonitor and SpeedFan, and all gives the same values on temperatures. And afterall, Thermal Radar is from ASUS, specifically available for my MoBo, so I think it know the sensors and temps. I did not mention any core temps. The picture provides all my sensors, and readouts. I can also check fan RPM and voltages.

When I said without fans, then I meant all extra fans. Like, all fans except the CPU cooler and the PSU fan. So in my case, I have 2 extra case fans. Or well.. 3, but that one is MOLEX connected, hahah.

I do know that my VRM's temps, or actually, ALL components temps wasnt in the line of danger. But why not you know.. Keep everything nice n cool ^^ And this is only a thought, but I guess that the CPU temp, might be the socket temp, I dno... Or maybe they're just measuring one core, like the core#1 or something... Haha, im just brainstorming.

Okok, to the real deal. Ima reset BIOS now, disable every single "power saving modes" and ****, and get on with it. 5GHz, here I come. Do I need to change NB or SB voltages? Do I need to change anything except multiplyer, VCORE, CPU VDDA etc?... I cant remember everything, been up all night trying to get my OC stable..

Well, ima go do the Bulldozer 5GHz guide/recommended settings!







Cya in abit

Oh, and that picture is taken with all my extra fans turned off. "VRM fan and front chassi fan off"


----------



## Mega Man

@Alanthor you are either really young or really new to the game.

either way. amd "sensors" do not exist and are actually _*VERY*_ accurate, under load.

they *DO NOT have any "sensors"*. first it is a thermistor, to which you are talking about.

second. amd uses a algorithm that is *INACCURATE* at idle, and becomes more actuate the more the cpu is underload, basic rule of thumb, if core shows under 30, use socket, over 30 use core. and i would dump thermal radar asap ( it only shows socket ) and use hwinfo. as it will show both


----------



## Alanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> @Alanthor you are either really young or really new to the game.
> 
> either way. amd "sensors" do not exist and are actually _*VERY*_ accurate, under load.
> 
> they *DO NOT have any "sensors"*. first it is a thermistor, to which you are talking about.
> 
> second. amd uses a algorithm that is *INACCURATE* at idle, and becomes more actuate the more the cpu is underload, basic rule of thumb, if core shows under 30, use socket, over 30 use core. and i would dump thermal radar asap ( it only shows socket ) and use hwinfo. as it will show both


Fine... I have now updated my BIOS to the latest version. I come back soon after I've been into BIOS.

Btw, hahaha. I made my own DirectKey button, its awesome, hahaha









For the notice.. I am 20 years old, swedish, and yea... Pretty new to OCing. But I aint new to computers and hardware/software in general.. I cant compare to you guys, but with the peeps i am with, im the PC god for them, lol.

BRb, BIOS time


----------



## mus1mus

I wonder if you can get up to 5GHz on a 212 even with a 4300..

But who knows?..


----------



## Alanthor

I'll try... But my core temps are like random numbered... Like 2celsius, 12 celsius etc... Isnt socket temp enough to know, along with VCORE1, VCORE2, MB, NB, DRAM temps, with Thermal Radar?

It is afterall a SAbertooth 990FX R2.0... Like, one on the best boards for OC, with alot of heat/temp/measurements features.. Shouldnt the temperatures, given by ASUS itself, be accurate?

And why do u thnk I cant get to 5GHz? Heat issues? Or.. Tell me


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I wonder if you can get up to 5GHz on a 212 even with a 4300..
> 
> But who knows?..


My Fx-4170 can oc up to 4800mhz!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alanthor*
> 
> I'll try... But my core temps are like random numbered... Like 2celsius, 12 celsius etc... Isnt socket temp enough to know, along with VCORE1, VCORE2, MB, NB, DRAM temps, with Thermal Radar?
> 
> It is afterall a SAbertooth 990FX R2.0... Like, one on the best boards for OC, with alot of heat/temp/measurements features.. Shouldnt the temperatures, given by ASUS itself, be accurate?
> 
> And why do u thnk I cant get to 5GHz? Heat issues? Or.. Tell me


Thermal radar is crap..just like some of Asus' sensors.. Memory sensor is an example. As well as usb3.0! Damn sensors read -110 degrees.. Yes, negative hundred and ten..

Pretty much like temp will limit you.. Lol

But who knows.. If it's feels like winter ambients, maybe..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> My Fx-4170 can oc up to 4800mhz!


Limit? Or daily?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alanthor*
> 
> I'll try... But my core temps are like random numbered... Like 2celsius, 12 celsius etc... Isnt socket temp enough to know, along with VCORE1, VCORE2, MB, NB, DRAM temps, with Thermal Radar?
> 
> It is afterall a SAbertooth 990FX R2.0... Like, one on the best boards for OC, with alot of heat/temp/measurements features.. Shouldnt the temperatures, given by ASUS itself, be accurate?
> 
> And why do u thnk I cant get to 5GHz? Heat issues? Or.. Tell me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thermal radar is crap..just like some of Asus' sensors.. Memory sensor is an example. As well as usb3.0! Damn sensors read -110 degrees.. Yes, negative hundred and ten..
> 
> Pretty much like temp will limit you.. Lol
> 
> But who knows.. If it's feels like winter ambients, maybe..
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> My Fx-4170 can oc up to 4800mhz!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Limit? Or daily?
Click to expand...

I don't have issue with thermal radar. My oc is daily.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alanthor*
> 
> I'll try... But my core temps are like random numbered... Like 2celsius, 12 celsius etc... Isnt socket temp enough to know, along with VCORE1, VCORE2, MB, NB, DRAM temps, with Thermal Radar?
> 
> It is afterall a SAbertooth 990FX R2.0... Like, one on the best boards for OC, with alot of heat/temp/measurements features.. Shouldnt the temperatures, given by ASUS itself, be accurate?
> 
> And why do u thnk I cant get to 5GHz? Heat issues? Or.. Tell me


you get all 8 thermisters ( temp sensors ) in HWinfo and core temp

cpu 0 is core cpu is socket
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alanthor*
> 
> I'll try... But my core temps are like random numbered... Like 2celsius, 12 celsius etc... Isnt socket temp enough to know, along with VCORE1, VCORE2, MB, NB, DRAM temps, with Thermal Radar?
> 
> It is afterall a SAbertooth 990FX R2.0... Like, one on the best boards for OC, with alot of heat/temp/measurements features.. Shouldnt the temperatures, given by ASUS itself, be accurate?
> 
> And why do u thnk I cant get to 5GHz? Heat issues? Or.. Tell me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thermal radar is crap..just like some of Asus' sensors.. Memory sensor is an example. As well as usb3.0! Damn sensors read -110 degrees.. Yes, negative hundred and ten..
> 
> Pretty much like temp will limit you.. Lol
> 
> But who knows.. If it's feels like winter ambients, maybe..
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> My Fx-4170 can oc up to 4800mhz!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Limit? Or daily?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I don't have issue yet with thermal radar. My oc is daily.
Click to expand...

fixed for you


----------



## Alanthor

Gah... I suck at OCing, or this rig just cant handle a high overclock.. Sure, I can get up to 4.5 stable in GAMES, but whenever I go over 4.4GHz, that stupid worker#4 always fails... I even took the vcore to like 1.5 or something, but then it went nuts







Now im back at default. Gonna try OCing with AMD Overdrive, to see if my success is bettter.


----------



## Mega Man

you are dropping a core, what is your bios settings ( pics via their screenshot function please ) and what is your socket temps / vrm temps

please also fill out rigbuilder/put in your sig as seen in my sig


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alanthor*
> 
> Gah... I suck at OCing, or this rig just cant handle a high overclock.. Sure, I can get up to 4.5 stable in GAMES, but whenever I go over 4.4GHz, that stupid worker#4 always fails... I even took the vcore to like 1.5 or something, but then it went nuts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now im back at default. Gonna try OCing with AMD Overdrive, to see if my success is bettter.


I use Games and virtual machines mainly. It's super stable with 300mhz fsb @4800 mhz cpu @ 2400 mhz ram @ 2200-2400mhz nb @ 2400-2600 mhz ht. It's working so good I get bored but I need to fix the p-states. It seems to me there is room to save a bit of energy. I would also would like to know what is bottleneck my pc? My cpu or my hd 6950 crossfire. There is some stutter in some Games.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alanthor*
> 
> I'll try... But my core temps are like random numbered... Like 2celsius, 12 celsius etc... Isnt socket temp enough to know, along with VCORE1, VCORE2, MB, NB, DRAM temps, with Thermal Radar?
> 
> It is afterall a SAbertooth 990FX R2.0... Like, one on the best boards for OC, with alot of heat/temp/measurements features.. Shouldnt the temperatures, given by ASUS itself, be accurate?
> 
> And why do u thnk I cant get to 5GHz? Heat issues? Or.. Tell me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you get all 8 thermisters ( temp sensors ) in HWinfo and core temp
> 
> cpu 0 is core cpu is socket
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alanthor*
> 
> I'll try... But my core temps are like random numbered... Like 2celsius, 12 celsius etc... Isnt socket temp enough to know, along with VCORE1, VCORE2, MB, NB, DRAM temps, with Thermal Radar?
> 
> It is afterall a SAbertooth 990FX R2.0... Like, one on the best boards for OC, with alot of heat/temp/measurements features.. Shouldnt the temperatures, given by ASUS itself, be accurate?
> 
> And why do u thnk I cant get to 5GHz? Heat issues? Or.. Tell me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thermal radar is crap..just like some of Asus' sensors.. Memory sensor is an example. As well as usb3.0! Damn sensors read -110 degrees.. Yes, negative hundred and ten..
> 
> Pretty much like temp will limit you.. Lol
> 
> But who knows.. If it's feels like winter ambients, maybe..
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> My Fx-4170 can oc up to 4800mhz!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Limit? Or daily?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I don't have issue yet with thermal radar. My oc is daily.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> fixed for you
Click to expand...

If there is a problem I can deal with it. Remember my discussion with @minotaur and you about extreme fsb oc and energy plans a.k.a resume from hibernation?


----------



## Synister

Have a lot of the more experienced members lost their 'Helpful' attitude? - It seems people are just getting more and more eager to point out someone's faults / wrong doings - rather than remembering we all started at the bottom of the overclocking knowledge pile.

I can say that I'd take some of the responses given to Alanthor a little bit on the 'attack'. Cut the new guys some slack.

Also lazy typing from the more experienced members is giving miss-info left right and centre!

ps. @Alanthor I'd hide your bookmarks bar in future Screenshots


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synister*
> 
> Have a lot of the more experienced members lost their 'Helpful' attitude? - It seems people are just getting more and more eager to point out someone's faults / wrong doings - rather than remembering we all started at the bottom of the overclocking knowledge pile.
> 
> I can say that I'd take some of the responses given to Alanthor a little bit on the 'attack'. Cut the new guys some slack.
> 
> Also lazy typing from the more experienced members is giving miss-info left right and centre!
> 
> ps. @Alanthor I'd hide your bookmarks bar in future Screenshots


There are just things with right intentions when spoken either to a wrong person, wrong time, wrong way, becomes helluva mess.

I am guilty on some of those..but hey, I am not considering myself more adept than anyone.. And yes, we all started from the bottom.. And we all should be learning everyday..

Cheers!

By the way,

I got my chip some workout at 5GHz.. With a 240mm rad.. Will be refining things and see how well it goes..


----------



## toppas

I tried different clock base rates and voltages. Still jumping 2MHz around. I guess it's a given.


----------



## LtStinger

Got a question on my kitty...

I've been adding additional fans and running out of motherboard headers for them, so I purchased a splitter. Unfortunately, they only had the 3 pins and not the 4. I decided to use the stock H100i fans on this splitter since they are 3 pin anyway. Now bios reads N/A for monitoring the CPU fan speed.

Now I understand that the RPM cable is only going to come from one fan, and the other fan cord is only utilizing two wires because of this. But why is the motherboard not reading anything at all? Is there a better solution here, I'm really not in love with having to add another one of these splitters, and I'd really like to have a reading on the CPU fans. I cannot fit a 5.25 fan controller because I'm out of room...



Any help and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.









Edit: this is basically what I'm using when I say "splitter" http://linitx.com/product/3pin-fan-power-splitter-cable/13214


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LtStinger*
> 
> Got a question on my kitty...
> 
> I've been adding additional fans and running out of motherboard headers for them, so I purchased a splitter. Unfortunately, they only had the 3 pins and not the 4. I decided to use the stock H100i fans on this splitter since they are 3 pin anyway. Now bios reads N/A for monitoring the CPU fan speed.
> 
> Now I understand that the RPM cable is only going to come from one fan, and the other fan cord is only utilizing two wires because of this. But why is the motherboard not reading anything at all? Is there a better solution here, I'm really not in love with having to add another one of these splitters, and I'd really like to have a reading on the CPU fans. I cannot fit a 5.25 fan controller because I'm out of room...
> 
> 
> 
> Any help and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: this is basically what I'm using when I say "splitter" http://linitx.com/product/3pin-fan-power-splitter-cable/13214


Is the h100i controlled by usb? Then you can use it with the splitter. The sabertooth gives me the same problem







.


----------



## LtStinger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Is the h100i controlled by usb? Then you can use it with the splitter. The sabertooth gives me the same problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Embarrassingly, I actually have little idea of how this works...but I'll try to state what I know.

There are a few ports on the pump/block, and I don't plug my fans into it. Instead, I plug the fans directly into the motherboard CPU and CPU OPT ports. Well...I did, until I moved the radiator and bought two more fans...anyway...

So now I run this cooler with the USB which goes from the pump to the mobo header, a SATA power cable plugged into the PSU, and a one-wire fan cable that also plugs into the motherboard. I'm not really sure how it all works yet...I've been busy slicing metal and fabricating brackets. I think I can run it without the USB, that is just for the software, but the 1-wire fan cable, can I unplug that? Is it monitoring the RPM for the pump, or is it dictating the speed of the pump? I have no idea what's going on. Things have changed a lot from plugging the fans in with a molex and it was on or off lmao

I like the ability to have the fans ramp up when they need to, but that is only the PWM, or 4-pin fan connections, correct? So with 3 pins it's either fully on or fully off. I guess I'm okay with that, but it seems like these fans are all running a bit slow. Time to download speedfan I guess.

So back on to the topic, it sounds like you can't use a simple slitter on these mobo fan headers, or you lose the function to control, or even monitor the RPM of the fans. I'm already considering where to cut a new hole now and just get a decent fan controller and call it a day. But maybe there is something simpler.


----------



## toppas

I'm using the same splitter cable. the fan speed is shown just fine. speed control works well too. I guess there is sth. broken with yours.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LtStinger*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Is the h100i controlled by usb? Then you can use it with the splitter. The sabertooth gives me the same problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> Embarrassingly, I actually have little idea of how this works...but I'll try to state what I know.
> 
> There are a few ports on the pump/block, and I don't plug my fans into it. Instead, I plug the fans directly into the motherboard CPU and CPU OPT ports. Well...I did, until I moved the radiator and bought two more fans...anyway...
> 
> So now I run this cooler with the USB which goes from the pump to the mobo header, a SATA power cable plugged into the PSU, and a one-wire fan cable that also plugs into the motherboard. I'm not really sure how it all works yet...I've been busy slicing metal and fabricating brackets. I think I can run it without the USB, that is just for the software, but the 1-wire fan cable, can I unplug that? Is it monitoring the RPM for the pump, or is it dictating the speed of the pump? I have no idea what's going on. Things have changed a lot from plugging the fans in with a molex and it was on or off lmao
> 
> I like the ability to have the fans ramp up when they need to, but that is only the PWM, or 4-pin fan connections, correct? So with 3 pins it's either fully on or fully off. I guess I'm okay with that, but it seems like these fans are all running a bit slow. Time to download speedfan I guess.
> 
> So back on to the topic, it sounds like you can't use a simple slitter on these mobo fan headers, or you lose the function to control, or even monitor the RPM of the fans. I'm already considering where to cut a new hole now and just get a decent fan controller and call it a day. But maybe there is something simpler.
Click to expand...

It depends on the fan either. You can try also a case fan header. I don't know Corsair but with the Antec I can control it with the usb. Most liked I'm wrong because it depends on the fans. Look the other post!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LtStinger*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Is the h100i controlled by usb? Then you can use it with the splitter. The sabertooth gives me the same problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> Embarrassingly, I actually have little idea of how this works...but I'll try to state what I know.
> 
> There are a few ports on the pump/block, and I don't plug my fans into it. Instead, I plug the fans directly into the motherboard CPU and CPU OPT ports. Well...I did, until I moved the radiator and bought two more fans...anyway...
> 
> So now I run this cooler with the USB which goes from the pump to the mobo header, a SATA power cable plugged into the PSU, and a one-wire fan cable that also plugs into the motherboard. I'm not really sure how it all works yet...I've been busy slicing metal and fabricating brackets. I think I can run it without the USB, that is just for the software, but the 1-wire fan cable, can I unplug that? Is it monitoring the RPM for the pump, or is it dictating the speed of the pump? I have no idea what's going on. Things have changed a lot from plugging the fans in with a molex and it was on or off lmao
> 
> I like the ability to have the fans ramp up when they need to, but that is only the PWM, or 4-pin fan connections, correct? So with 3 pins it's either fully on or fully off. I guess I'm okay with that, but it seems like these fans are all running a bit slow. Time to download speedfan I guess.
> 
> So back on to the topic, it sounds like you can't use a simple slitter on these mobo fan headers, or you lose the function to control, or even monitor the RPM of the fans. I'm already considering where to cut a new hole now and just get a decent fan controller and call it a day. But maybe there is something simpler.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It depends on the fan either. You can try also a case fan header. I don't know Corsair but with the Antec I can control it with the usb. Most liked I'm wrong because it depends on the fans. Look the other post!
Click to expand...

problem solved Aquaero 6xt/pro


----------



## mus1mus

Got my loop installed. But came to an interesting bios prompt.

Over voltage error? 1.625?

Anyone?


----------



## Mega Man

disable vcore monitoring


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Got my loop installed. But came to an interesting bios prompt.
> 
> Over voltage error? 1.625?
> 
> Anyone?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> disable vcore monitoring
Click to expand...

^this


----------



## mus1mus

Will look in to this..thanks

Just pick another rad for it so it is basically in pieces at the moment..

Apologies for the noobishness.. Lol


----------



## Alanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synister*
> 
> ps. @Alanthor I'd hide your bookmarks bar in future Screenshots


Hahahahaa, Oh yeah.... Is it the bookmark I think it is?







Hahahha


----------



## Synister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alanthor*
> 
> Hahahahaa, Oh yeah.... Is it the bookmark I think it is?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hahahha


Most likely haha


----------



## toppas

does anyone know how to read out the cpu_nb voltage?
if everything is left to auto, so no overlock, Ai suite reports cpu_nb llc is set to extreme. I wonder maybe it's just a bug with the indication or sth.


----------



## Alanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toppas*
> 
> does anyone know how to read out the cpu_nb voltage?
> if everything is left to auto, so no overlock, Ai suite reports cpu_nb llc is set to extreme. I wonder maybe it's just a bug with the indication or sth.


Go check it out in BIOS. Press "Delete" button on POST/BOOT, then go into "Advanced mode/F7", and find Digi+ power or something. It's on the same page where you can setup your FSB, Ratio and such. You can also see all the voltages in BIOS, cpu_nb aswell.


----------



## toppas

actually I was looking for sth to get the voltage value while bootet up in windows.
ai suite shows vcore and vdda only.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toppas*
> 
> actually I was looking for sth to get the voltage value while bootet up in windows.
> ai suite shows vcore and vdda only.


ugggghhh to AIsuite get HWinfo64 then see all your values


----------



## toppas

already tried, no cpu_nb voltage


----------



## Alanthor

Well... I dont know what STH means, but okay.. AMD Overdrive reads your CPU_NB voltage.


----------



## Norelec

Hey everyone it's been awhile since I logged in but have had quite a few issues with my Saber first of all the USB3 working one day then bang wasn't working my external drive wasn't showing so tried to restart the system it just hung so rebooted and all was well clicked shutdown woke up the next morning and was still shutting down (light globe something wrong) so restarted it all no USB 3 what the hell took me a week to figger out the USB3 was shot but had lappy with USB3 so didn't really care to much. then about 3 weeks ago was in BF3 with a mate just lined up a shot and good old mate blue came up system didn't restart just hung got the error code looked it up drive controller. so stripped the system down sent it back to ASUS and a week later got it back saying my firmware and Bios where out of date (funny I updated all that ****) so got the board installed it and well can't load the ASUS web site can't load a hell of a lot of things it constantly freezes and it don't matter weather I boot WIN8Pro or WIN7Pro same problems with both OS's it is weird if I can't load say Ebay in win8 it won't load in win7 BF3 won't load at all on both but BF4 will is driving me nuts.

So does anyone have any idea as to what I should be relaying to ASUS to get the board fixed as I really don't want to run the spare board for to long Asrock 970 Extreme 3 R2 bought for my the Family to use so they don't bother me with the look this up look that up and no they are not using my lappy they drop things like my lappy.

any way any info would be great.

P.s forgot the dam raid thing how the hell do I get that crap to work when I install the driver Windows still won't see the raid drive or should we be saying windooooooooooooooos.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alanthor*
> 
> Well... I dont know what STH means, but okay.. AMD Overdrive reads your CPU_NB voltage.


Nope, AOD reads CPU-NB VID.. Not the actual CPU-NB Voltage.

No Software has been found to read CPU-NB Voltage yet.


----------



## LtStinger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Norelec*
> 
> Hey everyone it's been awhile since I logged in but have had quite a few issues with my Saber first of all the USB3 working one day then bang wasn't working my external drive wasn't showing so tried to restart the system it just hung so rebooted and all was well clicked shutdown woke up the next morning and was still shutting down (light globe something wrong) so restarted it all no USB 3 what the hell took me a week to figger out the USB3 was shot but had lappy with USB3 so didn't really care to much. then about 3 weeks ago was in BF3 with a mate just lined up a shot and good old mate blue came up system didn't restart just hung got the error code looked it up drive controller. so stripped the system down sent it back to ASUS and a week later got it back saying my firmware and Bios where out of date (funny I updated all that ****) so got the board installed it and well can't load the ASUS web site can't load a hell of a lot of things it constantly freezes and it don't matter weather I boot WIN8Pro or WIN7Pro same problems with both OS's it is weird if I can't load say Ebay in win8 it won't load in win7 BF3 won't load at all on both but BF4 will is driving me nuts.
> 
> So does anyone have any idea as to what I should be relaying to ASUS to get the board fixed as I really don't want to run the spare board for to long Asrock 970 Extreme 3 R2 bought for my the Family to use so they don't bother me with the look this up look that up and no they are not using my lappy they drop things like my lappy.
> 
> any way any info would be great.
> 
> P.s forgot the dam raid thing how the hell do I get that crap to work when I install the driver Windows still won't see the raid drive or should we be saying windooooooooooooooos.


What are you booting your operating systems from? Are they live discs of some kind, are they both on the same hard drive? If it's the latter, I would look into SATA cable and drive to rule it out. Try another port and make sure you have the right drivers for all your sata. *as a side note, when I first got the board, made the noob mistake of not noticing I was downloading the 1.0 drivers for my 2.0...messed things up good enough for me to just throw up my hands and reformat to save the headache.


----------



## Norelec

Both OS's are being booted from separate SSD's have tried Windows 7 from DVD as well as USB Win8 was installed off USB both USB drives are new out of packet new SATA3 cables even tried the ones of the spare board same thing have switched Ports have tried everything but the kitchen sink well every thing I can think of thought it was the SSD's to start with so plugged in my old 60Gb same thing drivers are correct and I just went to make sure what ver they are and have misplaced the folder they are in so need to download them again.
I have also tried one stick of ram swapping them to see if that is it I haven't tried different ram as in the process of moving and my other set of ram is in a box some ware and I don't have the money to buy new ram just to test it. the ram also worked fine in the spare board while this was getting warranty work so.

My thoughts are pull it out take back and say unstable keeps hanging won't but will load things and the raid thing as well (which I am pretty sure is across all 990FX boards not just this one)

The only other thing I can think of is to get a raid controller and set it up to see if that fixes the problem if it does then I know it was the drive/Sata controller
It is a headache but it will get sorted and I have only had this problem since it came back from warranty.
anyway thanx will keep trying and post when fixed


----------



## Krusher33

How many following this thread is still on the 1st edition of the board? Just curious.

I'm 1.


----------



## Norelec

Yes R1 for me


----------



## SwishaMane

Me too. Rev 1.01 baby! Had to RMA mine, they literally did nothing to it. Came back still not working, THEN ONE DAY, it started working again. And has been working good since. Totally weird no?


----------



## Citra

R1 here


----------



## mjcaouette89

I'm still on rev. 1 too, I got it shortly after the board came out still way before first gen bulldozer was out. Board is still running like a champ for me


----------



## Norelec

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Me too. Rev 1.01 baby! Had to RMA mine, they literally did nothing to it. Came back still not working, THEN ONE DAY, it started working again. And has been working good since. Totally weird no?


Wish mine would work after RMA dam thing thinks it funny.

@ LtStinger
Found reference to my issue on AMD well was similar to my issues just downloaded the latest drivers from AMD system hung as soon as they where done.

Pick up a Raid controller tomorrow so going to remove board once again and take to ASUS again but won't go back into a build till I move going to rebuild into a bigger case redo the loop as well and try acrylic tube this time. Plus put a new CPU into it so is it worth the extra $50au for an 8350 or just get the 8320 and put the extra into a second GFX card???


----------



## diggiddi

Fella's I just got the board a few days ago I was able to update the BIOS from 2104 to 2301 but not 2501 the latest bios, which keeps telling me security not verified, what gives? BTW below is my validation



http://valid.x86.fr/dlyum1

Neva mind i got it taken care of


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diggiddi*
> 
> Fella's I just got the board a few days ago I was able to update the BIOS from 2104 to 2301 but not 2501 the latest bios, which keeps telling me security not verified, what gives? BTW below is my validation
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/dlyum1
> 
> Neva mind i got it taken care of


WElcome!

what cooling you gots?


----------



## diggiddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> WElcome!
> 
> what cooling you gots?


Thanks now I need to overclock the thangs, Antec 620 push/pull and 120 mm fan blowing on VrM's


----------



## diggiddi

Which software on the CD is worth using ?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diggiddi*
> 
> Which software on the CD is worth using ?


The drvers? Then update them? Then ??? Profit


----------



## diggiddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> The drvers? Then update them? Then ??? Profit


I downloaded all the drivers from Asus website I'm talking about the utilities Ai Suite II etc


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diggiddi*
> 
> I downloaded all the drivers from Asus website I'm talking about the utilities Ai Suite II etc


I think the only one I use is aicharger


----------



## diggiddi

Ok, Also wrt cooling 92 mm fan blowing on RAM /CPU area and 120mm intake fan on top rear of case.
I will move one fan to back of Mobo when I stand up the case, its lying down for now


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

I got around to playing with AISuite II and found a few things.. I am still testing but I think I got around the issue of the monitoring program portion cause issues.


----------



## cgpeanut

Finally upgraded to the FX-9370 from the FX-4100 no problems so far, my 3 year old sabertooth R1 has the latest 1604 bios, I'm running at 4.5 GHZ for now, waiting on the thermal paste to cure before I set it loose









Before the cpu swap I updated my 3 year old corsair H80 with two corsair SP120 fans and added two corsair AP120 fans for intake and another corsair AP140 fan for exhaust, so far my temp does not exceed 50 degrees with everyday tasks BUT jumps to 65 degrees rendering videos now I need to find how far I can push it.

But I fear to reach the potential of this cpu next upgrade will be replacing the H80 with a swithtech H220X. need to figure how to get this monster water cooler inside my NZXT H2 classic, I might try removing or cutting off with a dremel the front bays we'll see.

http://valid.x86.fr/27d8sb


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgpeanut*
> 
> Finally upgraded to the FX-9370 from the FX-4100 no problems so far, my 3 year old sabertooth R1 has the latest 1604 bios, I'm running at 4.5 GHZ for now, waiting on the thermal paste to cure before I set it loose
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before the cpu swap I updated my 3 year old corsair H80 with two corsair SP120 fans and added two corsair AP120 fans for intake and another corsair AP140 fan for exhaust, so far my temp does not exceed 50 degrees with everyday tasks BUT jumps to 65 degrees rendering videos now I need to find how far I can push it.
> 
> But I fear to reach the potential of this cpu next upgrade will be replacing the H80 with a swithtech H220X. need to figure how to get this monster water cooler inside my NZXT H2 classic, I might try removing or cutting off with a dremel the front bays we'll see.
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/27d8sb


Welcome.. you have great plans.. you might be able to up the multi on that chip a little without adding more volts


----------



## cgpeanut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Welcome.. you have great plans.. you might be able to up the multi on that chip a little without adding more volts


Thanks F3ERS 2 ASH3S! bumped the multiplier to 23.5 it's stable now at 4.7 GHZ!









http://valid.x86.fr/mf0ka2


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgpeanut*
> 
> Thanks F3ERS 2 ASH3S! bumped the multiplier to 23.5 it's stable now at 4.7 GHZ!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/mf0ka2


Right on


----------



## punkafi888

You can add me to the list


----------



## Dromihetes

Unfortunately the "Outdated Image" message just shocked me few minutes ago







,when trying to go back to 1503 BIOS.
All BIOS prior to 2103 included are out of range.So if you are ok with older stay with it








How do you put older BIOS-es in safely ?!

After using the last 2 BIOS i have an error that is totally random and i don t know what s causing it
It shows up right when trying to boot from my A-DATA SSD drive but was random.It showed up when i ve started using this 2 last BIOS asus released.
Everything was ok with 1503 for 3 months ,if not more.A SSD firmware issue ,should of kicked earlier if any.
Some internal voice told me to try the latest BIOS-es too and that s it









I am not using UEFI , it s GPT with legacy.

The BSOD is 0 X 0000003b ,BSOD viewer says something about kernel no other driver involved.

I am on 2104 Sabertooth R2.0


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dromihetes*
> 
> Unfortunately the "Outdated Image" message just shocked me few minutes ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,when trying to go back to 1503 BIOS.
> All BIOS prior to 2103 included are out of range.So if you are ok with older stay with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do you put older BIOS-es in safely ?!
> 
> After using the last 2 BIOS i have an error that is totally random and i don t know what s causing it
> It shows up right when trying to boot from my A-DATA SSD drive but was random.It showed up when i ve started using this 2 last BIOS asus released.
> Everything was ok with 1503 for 3 months ,if not more.A SSD firmware issue ,should of kicked earlier if any.
> Some internal voice told me to try the latest BIOS-es too and that s it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not using UEFI , it s GPT with legacy.
> 
> The BSOD is 0 X 0000003b ,BSOD viewer says something about kernel no other driver involved.
> 
> I am on 2104 Sabertooth R2.0


Use the fallback and flash the backup with thumb drive. Didn't tried it but it also seems to erase all profiles. When I use Asus update it doesn't override my profiles which is a good thing.


----------



## philhalo66

Is there a trick to getting windows xp to install on the sabertooth because it just keeps giving me a generic blue screen when it get to (setup is starting windows)


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Is there a trick to getting windows xp to install on the sabertooth because it just keeps giving me a generic blue screen when it get to (setup is starting windows)


Use 64 bit..


----------



## Synister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alanthor*
> 
> Well... I dont know what STH means, but okay.. AMD Overdrive reads your CPU_NB voltage.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Nope, AOD reads CPU-NB VID.. Not the actual CPU-NB Voltage.
> 
> No Software has been found to read CPU-NB Voltage yet.


The sensor panel in Aida64 shows real-time CPU/NB Voltage in windows.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Use 64 bit..


so it requires the 64 bit version of xp?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> so it requires the 64 bit version of xp?


YES.. Drivers Compatibility..


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> YES.. Drivers Compatibility..


Idk for sure but this sounds off...

x64 xp had terrible driver support.. also this is before they even have the chance to load xp...

also where the heck do you find a copy of 64bit xp any way.. 64 didnt get mainstream until vista..

3rdly why xp... just sounds terrible unless it is only to bench with


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Idk for sure but this sounds off...


If you have tried installing a 32 bit OS into a 64 bit capable machine (newer ones) you'll know why.









Quote:


> x64 xp had terrible driver support.. also this is before they even have the chance to load xp...


Yes, as XP is already Officially Dead and Microsoft will no longer support them. But, at least Mobo drivers are still available.

Mobo Driver

NVidia Driver example

AMD Graphics

Above can already get you a working XP PC based on AMD FX + Kitty..

IIRC, as for installing, the first thing XP does is to load Drivers right? You don't load proper Drivers, you don't get into System install.. You miss one, Install halts. And 64-bit Drivers on the install CD is mainly for CPU support.

Correct me if I am wrong.








Quote:


> also where the heck do you find a copy of 64bit xp any way.. 64 didnt get mainstream until vista..


On sites I wouldn't, and not allowed to mention..
















Quote:


> 3rdly why xp... just sounds terrible unless it is only to bench with


Ask the OP.. lol









I personally wouldn't bother..


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> If you have tried installing a 32 bit OS into a 64 bit capable machine (newer ones) you'll know why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, as XP is already Officially Dead and Microsoft will no longer support them. But, at least Mobo drivers are still available.
> 
> Mobo Driver
> 
> NVidia Driver example
> 
> AMD Graphics
> 
> Above can already get you a working XP PC based on AMD FX + Kitty..
> 
> IIRC, as for installing, the first thing XP does is to load Drivers right? You don't load proper Drivers, you don't get into System install.. You miss one, Install halts. And 64-bit Drivers on the install CD is mainly for CPU support.
> 
> Correct me if I am wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On sites I wouldn't, and not allowed to mention..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ask the OP.. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I personally wouldn't bother..


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Idk for sure but this sounds off...
> 
> x64 xp had terrible driver support.. also this is before they even have the chance to load xp...
> 
> also where the heck do you find a copy of 64bit xp any way.. 64 didnt get mainstream until vista..
> 
> 3rdly why xp... just sounds terrible unless it is only to bench with


some of my games will not work on anything but windows XP so i created a small 50GB partition. and the reason it gives a blue screen is because it doesn't have the sata driver on disc.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> some of my games will not work on anything but windows XP so i created a small 50GB partition. and the reason it gives a blue screen is because it doesn't have the sata driver on disc.


Makes sense.. glad its not for main os.. idk I normally just boot up a vm to do that.. or xp mode in win 7


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Makes sense.. glad its not for main os.. idk I normally just boot up a vm to do that.. or xp mode in win 7


lol yeah i got win 7 home premium for main OS. virtual machine is far to glitchy for my older games like 3d acceleration is spotty as best last time i tested it with star wars racer. and as far as im aware xp mode is only available to professional, ultimate i have home premium


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> lol yeah i got win 7 home premium for main OS. virtual machine is far to glitchy for my older games like 3d acceleration is spotty as best last time i tested it with star wars racer. and as far as im aware xp mode is only available to professional, ultimate i have home premium


I feels for you man..


----------



## Dromihetes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Use the fallback and flash the backup with thumb drive. Didn't tried it but it also seems to erase all profiles. When I use Asus update it doesn't override my profiles which is a good thing.


I ve reverted to oldest possible 2104 ,without the stick recovery thing ,for safety.
No more BSOD-s at least since then and the X-Fi Xtreme Music stopped disapearing randomly at start up.
Newer BIOS-es are really bad in my case.
It s fun though as newer BIOS-es promises increased stability and such ,although on my machine created exactly the opposite.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dromihetes*
> 
> I ve reverted to oldest possible 2104 ,without the stick recovery thing ,for safety.
> No more BSOD-s at least since then and the X-Fi Xtreme Music stopped disapearing randomly at start up.
> Newer BIOS-es are really bad in my case.
> It s fun though as newer BIOS-es promises increased stability and such ,although on my machine created exactly the opposite.


If my answer is helpful please consider to give me +1 reputation!


----------



## Mega Man

@Recursion fyi it is against tos to "beg"(their words not mine) for reps


----------



## El-Fuego

quick question: I added SSD to my system and now the Boot device check red LED stays on!, system boots fine and All the storage devices works properly,
I have 1 SSD 250gb Samsung evo < the new in the system
1tb WB black, been in since built
asus bd player been in since built
all functioning, notice the red LED since i replaced my boodting to the ssd, took the manual out and say which LED was that and it's the one right below the south bridge!

any suggestions?


----------



## marvin83

I have the hugest dilemma. Well, maybe not too huge, but annoyingly huge.

I really want to jump on this Sabertooth 990fx R2.0 mobo. It's at a good price on Amazon right now ($169.49).

The issue I'm having is sound. I currently have an HT Omega Striker 7.1, which is PCI. The problem is I have 2x HD6970's and the sole PCI slot will be covered up by the 2nd card (assumption).

Do I go for a PCI-E sound card? But I heard those may have higher latency then normal PCI cards? Is there any truth to that?

Also, I recently just purchased an Intel Gigabit 9301 NIC I plan on using. I obviously can't stick it in its desired PCI-E 1x since that's covered up by card #1. So, my 2nd dilemma is more of a question. Assuming I get a PCI-E sound card, is there any reason why I can't do this...

PCI-E x16 #1 = video card #1
PCI-E x16 #2 = NIC or sound card
PCI-E x16 #3 = video card #2
PCI-E x16 #4 = NIC or sound card

Thus, getting the x16/x16 for both video cards and hopefully not affecting anything by having slots #2 and #4 filled as well.

I currently have a Crosshair IV Formula, but I've pretty much narrowed down BSoD / Kernel 41's to the motherboard by basically stripping down everything and testing each component separately. It doesn't happen as often, but by getting this new mobo I'll be future-proofing myself a tad bit more.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marvin83*
> 
> I have the hugest dilemma. Well, maybe not too huge, but annoyingly huge.
> 
> I really want to jump on this Sabertooth 990fx R2.0 mobo. It's at a good price on Amazon right now ($169.49).
> 
> The issue I'm having is sound. I currently have an HT Omega Striker 7.1, which is PCI. The problem is I have 2x HD6970's and the sole PCI slot will be covered up by the 2nd card (assumption).
> 
> Do I go for a PCI-E sound card? But I heard those may have higher latency then normal PCI cards? Is there any truth to that?
> 
> Also, I recently just purchased an Intel Gigabit 9301 NIC I plan on using. I obviously can't stick it in its desired PCI-E 1x since that's covered up by card #1. So, my 2nd dilemma is more of a question. Assuming I get a PCI-E sound card, is there any reason why I can't do this...
> 
> PCI-E x16 #1 = video card #1
> PCI-E x16 #2 = NIC or sound card
> PCI-E x16 #3 = video card #2
> PCI-E x16 #4 = NIC or sound card
> 
> Thus, getting the x16/x16 for both video cards and hopefully not affecting anything by having slots #2 and #4 filled as well.
> 
> I currently have a Crosshair IV Formula, but I've pretty much narrowed down BSoD / Kernel 41's to the motherboard by basically stripping down everything and testing each component separately. It doesn't happen as often, but by getting this new mobo I'll be future-proofing myself a tad bit more.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


I think you can do those.

GPUs for the PCIex16_1 and PCIex16_3 both will be running at x16
Sound card for the PCIex16_2 slot probably run at x4
NIC at PCIe slot 4. also might be running at x4

each PCIex16 for the GPUs have been allocated with a couple of slots (as video cards occupy 2 slots) to next full size PCIe slot. Unless you have a triple slot Video card, then it would be a problem for you.

And lol.. No offense but how are you supposed to get a couple of reps from this post?


----------



## marvin83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I think you can do those.
> 
> GPUs for the PCIex16_1 and PCIex16_3 both will be running at x16
> Sound card for the PCIex16_2 slot probably run at x4
> NIC at PCIe slot 4. also might be running at x4
> 
> each PCIex16 for the GPUs have been allocated with a couple of slots (as video cards occupy 2 slots) to next full size PCIe slot. Unless you have a triple slot Video card, then it would be a problem for you.
> 
> And lol.. No offense but how are you supposed to get a couple of reps from this post?


Nah, the video cards are only dual-slot. Such a pain... I love my sound card







. Oh well, it's time for an upgrade anyways.

And I have no idea about rep. I've had an account for quite awhile (almost 3 years), just never posted anything.

I appreciate the help, though.

Even after now knowing I should be fine with not needing any PCI slots (well, don't have a choice, really), I still think I'm content with the Sabertooth over the CHFV-Z.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marvin83*
> 
> Nah, the video cards are only dual-slot. Such a pain... I love my sound card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Oh well, it's time for an upgrade anyways.


you can look for a PCI riser.


Quote:


> And I have no idea about rep. I've had an account for quite awhile (almost 3 years), just never posted anything.
> 
> I appreciate the help, though.


That must be it.









Quote:


> Even after now knowing I should be fine with not needing any PCI slots (well, don't have a choice, really), I still think I'm content with the Sabertooth over the CHFV-Z.


They are both using the same layout/slot spacing albeit slots 2&3 are next to each other on the Kitty and its 3&4 on the CHVFZ.

Getting a riser for the PCI will let you use the soundcard. A matter of how and where you wanna tuck it in though..


----------



## marvin83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> you can look for a PCI riser.
> 
> 
> That must be it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are both using the same layout/slot spacing albeit slots 2&3 are next to each other on the Kitty and its 3&4 on the CHVFZ.
> 
> Getting a riser for the PCI will let you use the soundcard. A matter of how and where you wanna tuck it in though..


Hmm, I totally forgot these existed. Yeah, worst case I can find a place for the card somewhere, assuming I don't upgrade to a PCI-E card anyways. Thank you.

And the CHFV-Z is currently $60 more than the Sabertooth. I really don't see the point in going to that board with all the bells and whistles the Sabertooth has. I already have an Intel Gigabit NIC waiting to go in and I won't be using the 'better' on-board sound the CHFV-Z has anyways.


----------



## diggiddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marvin83*
> 
> I have the hugest dilemma. Well, maybe not too huge, but annoyingly huge.
> 
> I really want to jump on this Sabertooth 990fx R2.0 mobo. It's at a good price on Amazon right now ($169.49).
> 
> The issue I'm having is sound. I currently have an HT Omega Striker 7.1, which is PCI. The problem is I have 2x HD6970's and the sole PCI slot will be covered up by the 2nd card (assumption).
> 
> Do I go for a PCI-E sound card? But I heard those may have higher latency then normal PCI cards? Is there any truth to that?
> 
> Also, I recently just purchased an Intel Gigabit 9301 NIC I plan on using. I obviously can't stick it in its desired PCI-E 1x since that's covered up by card #1. So, my 2nd dilemma is more of a question. Assuming I get a PCI-E sound card, is there any reason why I can't do this...
> 
> PCI-E x16 #1 = video card #1
> PCI-E x16 #2 = NIC or sound card
> PCI-E x16 #3 = video card #2
> PCI-E x16 #4 = NIC or sound card
> 
> Thus, getting the x16/x16 for both video cards and hopefully not affecting anything by having slots #2 and #4 filled as well.
> 
> I currently have a Crosshair IV Formula, but I've pretty much narrowed down BSoD / Kernel 41's to the motherboard by basically stripping down everything and testing each component separately. It doesn't happen as often, but by getting this new mobo I'll be future-proofing myself a tad bit more.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


What you are proposing can be done like this
Put GPU #2 in the very last Pcie slot if your case will allow, then you will have the Pci and an extra Pcie slot open between the 2 cards


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marvin83*
> 
> Hmm, I totally forgot these existed. Yeah, worst case I can find a place for the card somewhere, assuming I don't upgrade to a PCI-E card anyways. Thank you.


I have seen @HeatPL installed his GPU via a riser here

Just an idea for the sound card








Quote:


> And the CHFV-Z is currently $60 more than the Sabertooth. I really don't see the point in going to that board with all the bells and whistles the Sabertooth has. I already have an Intel Gigabit NIC waiting to go in and I won't be using the 'better' on-board sound the CHFV-Z has anyways.


Well, extreme users can find few things going for the CHVFZ that are not on the Kitty.
















As for the sound card, no on-board audio will be better than dedicated ones..








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diggiddi*
> 
> What you are proposing can be done like this
> Put GPU #2 in the very last Pcie slot if your case will allow, then you will have the Pci and an extra Pcie slot open between the 2 cards


Yes, if the last slot will allow it to run at x16.. Never tried that so I have no idea.

2nd, depending on the case. Full towers could. But you'll end up covering the USB headers for the front panel.

But yes, this is another way..


----------



## marvin83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diggiddi*
> 
> What you are proposing can be done like this
> Put GPU #2 in the very last Pcie slot if your case will allow, then you will have the Pci and an extra Pcie slot open between the 2 cards


Would that still provide x16/x16 for both cards?

In the manual it states using port #1 and port #4 will give you x16 and x1.

From manual:


----------



## diggiddi

It should be x8, you are going to put the LAN card in PCie_3. I could be wrong but that's the way I read it.


----------



## Mega Man

if you can notice a few MS of lag... then my friend you would be near super human

to my knowledge PCIE is faster then PCI, does not mean i am right though

imo upgrade pci is dead/dieing


----------



## marvin83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if you can notice a few MS of lag... then my friend you would be near super human
> 
> to my knowledge PCIE is faster then PCI, does not mean i am right though
> 
> imo upgrade pci is dead/dieing


Yeah, I assume all latency-based issues would be based off the chip in the sound card itself anyways, rather than the bus itself of the PCI/PCIe lane(s).

I need to/should upgrade anyways, it's about time. But as a backup, I'll toss down a few dollars on a PCI riser for giggles. I do appreciate ASUS (and other board manufacturers) putting in at least one PCI, for those legacy people who have super nice PCI sound cards / other devices.

I appreciate everyone's help.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diggiddi*
> 
> It should be x8, you are going to put the LAN card in PCie_3. I could be wrong but that's the way I read it.


The only thing I can do at this point is mess around with it and check GPU-Z to see what it's reporting. The manual shows x16 & x1 using 1 and 4, but it may show up x8 on port 4 like you said. I'm definitely going to jump on this board within the next week or so, so I'll indeed update my findings. I can't wait, this board looks very sexy.


----------



## Kalistoval

I just got my sabertooth sunday, bios 2104 is their a better one out?


----------



## marvin83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kalistoval*
> 
> I just got my sabertooth sunday, bios 2104 is their a better one out?


https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R20/HelpDesk_Download/

2501. Newer. I don't know about better...


----------



## Synister

Can I just mention - with GPU #2 in the bottom PCI-E slot, how would you run the x-fire connector?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kalistoval*
> 
> I just got my sabertooth sunday, bios 2104 is their a better one out?


I know a few of the Sabertooth owners run the first Bios to support the FX chips, and have found best result with this Bios.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synister*
> 
> Can I just mention - with GPU #2 in the bottom PCI-E slot, how would you run the x-fire connector?


Bright Boy









Quote:


> I know a few of the Sabertooth owners run the first Bios to support the FX chips, and have found best result with this Bios.


----------



## Synister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Bright Boy


TBH at first I didn't think of this as an issue, as I keep reading builds with R9 cards in. But yet, you'd need a long x-fire bridge!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synister*
> 
> TBH at first I didn't think of this as an issue, as I keep reading builds with R9 cards in. But yet, you'd need a long x-fire bridge!


All I know is that, when you use the bottom port for dual fire, you won't be running the second card at x16 which will take its toll on performance.

All pre r9-29x will need long bridge indeed. I have seen a long one.. I just don't know if it will reach though..


----------



## Kalistoval

So what r the best setting for this board should i set every thing in the digi to ultra or extreme ? and Id like to know what voltages we all have here cpu voltage doesn't matter since they aren't all the same. Same rig below just brands new fx 8320 since I killed my last one few days ago and no more lame asrock board


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kalistoval*
> 
> So what r the best setting for this board should i set every thing in the digi to ultra or extreme ? and Id like to know what voltages we all have here cpu voltage doesn't matter since they aren't all the same. Same rig below just brands new fx 8320 since I killed my last one few days ago and no more lame asrock board


I find High LLC for the CPU makes the flattest Voltage response. Give it a +0.025 Volts from desired value, mix it with some VRM Frequency, Voltage swings to just a couple values..
You can use Ultra to give you a little more wider Voltage range on a given value at the Bios..

i.e 1.625 at the Bois on High will be around 1.60 on Windows. AT Ultra, it an go as high as 1.65 .. Which will give you more headroom when trying to look for a stable OC..









Everything else is on Xtreme for me.. Or the Highest Settings..


----------



## El-Fuego

dont you think 1.6 is a bit extreme? It depends on your oc but most go for less than that number, i suggest you take your time and try to increase it buy 0.01v at a time and check your stability.


----------



## Mega Man

not if you can keep it cool i push it 24/7 and if i didnt oc my ht i would push it much higher


----------



## mus1mus

That is an example..









Depending on your chip.. Mine a lazy one so yeah. It takes a minimum of that to reach 5GHz and produce this

And all that will depend on your cooling.


----------



## Synister

Can someone with a bit more knowledge of the 'Kitty or fan control just confirm that I'm not going mad. I cannot control the RPM of Corsair SP120s via 3-pin. This is normal right?

I know some of the other fans I have like NZXT FZs are controllable via 3-pin.


----------



## zila

I just received a Sabertooth yesterday and had the same problem, I replaced the fans with 4 pin pwm fans and all is fine now. This is my first experience with a Sabertooth so I'm learning as I go along.


----------



## Synister

It wasn't an issue I was having. But that puts my mind at rest. Someone in the Aerocool DS Fan thread, keeps just telling me to use Thermal Radar to control the RPM. But they must just work differently as they cannot be controlled this way.

I don't like having to state for a third time, without ensuring that I was definitely correct!


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synister*
> 
> Can someone with a bit more knowledge of the 'Kitty or fan control just confirm that I'm not going mad. I cannot control the RPM of Corsair SP120s via 3-pin. This is normal right?
> 
> I know some of the other fans I have like NZXT FZs are controllable via 3-pin.


to my knowledge 3 pin = not PWM controlled, the 4th pin is the PWM signal,
I have few SP120s I have them connected to a PWM fan controller.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> to my knowledge 3 pin = not PWM controlled, the 4th pin is the PWM signal,
> I have few SP120s I have them connected to a PWM fan controller.


^this is the proper answer 3 pin no control 4 pin full control just the way the fan wires are set up


----------



## zila

This board doesn't have the option in the bios for voltage control of the fans. My UD5 does and it control 3 pin fans on the 4 pin header just fine. I believe, if my memory doesn't fail me that my Formula Z also has this option. This board is just a little different.

I am falling in love with this Sabertooth. I prefer it over the UD5.


----------



## Synister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> I just received a Sabertooth yesterday and had the same problem, I replaced the fans with 4 pin pwm fans and all is fine now. This is my first experience with a Sabertooth so I'm learning as I go along.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> to my knowledge 3 pin = not PWM controlled, the 4th pin is the PWM signal,
> I have few SP120s I have them connected to a PWM fan controller.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> ^this is the proper answer 3 pin no control 4 pin full control just the way the fan wires are set up


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> This board doesn't have the option in the bios for voltage control of the fans. My UD5 does and it control 3 pin fans on the 4 pin header just fine. I believe, if my memory doesn't fail me that my Formula Z also has this option. This board is just a little different.
> 
> I am falling in love with this Sabertooth. I prefer it over the UD5.


I'm sure this is one of those times where you just go - 'I've tried, but I give up'
My experience is that *some* 3-pin fans do allow for control via Voltage. But not all fans. I'd imagine this is purely to do with the motor.

I apologize, I've not had issues with my Sabertooth, but I needed to be reassured I was correct. I do hate it when someone makes you feel like you're wrong, purely for the fact that they are too set in their ways to ensure they, themselves are correct.

Incase you're interested:


Spoiler: Warning: Large wall 'o text!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synister*
> 
> I could look at redoing the test with the Corsairs @ 1450 RPM : 7 V and the Aerocools @ 1500 RPM : 12 V. I'd need to source some new rubber fan retainers though as they've started to go old and brittle. I know there's a proper term for that which I cannot think of right now!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Even running lower speeds would benefit the testing, to have a quieter sound at lower speeds. 1000/1200rpm is also a good test range.
> Suggest you use the cpu headers and software from mobo to get speeds you need. That way you are close.
> As for mounting the silent dampeners you get with fans that you use instead of screws.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synister*
> 
> The DS fans do not allow speed change via Mobo headers. I meant I have a Xigmatek Aegir, and that has specific rubber mounting pegs. I currently only have 3 of them on the Pull fan, as one snapped when swapping the fans over(and the rest were close to going also, they have been used for 1-2 years with some hot temps, and 3 fan changes!).
> 
> The closest comparison available is the DS at fulll 12 V : 1500 RPM, and SP120s @ 7 V : 1450 RPM using the quiet adapters included.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Yes they do. it is called ASUS Thermal Radar. It is on all Sabertooth boards.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synister*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not an amateur with ASUS boards, and can assure you that with thorough testing - If i use Disabled, Standard, Silent, Turbo or User it makes ZERO difference to the RPM of the fans - much the same as the Corsair's - they do not work with 3-pin control!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Please understand, they do work in the bios. Everyone who uses a mobo the bios can change the fan speed.
> 
> The bios will not change the fan when you set it. You have to restart the bios to take effect. While in windows the bios will start to set the correct fan speed.
> Please use the software that came with your mobo. As I already said Thermal Radar, it is part of the AI Suite.


----------



## zila

Hmmm, I tried all the 3 pin fans I own and none of them would work for me. They just run at 100% all the time. All the other boards I own that have the voltage control option in the bios will control every 3 pin fan I've got. I didn't try the other headers on the board though as I was too busy trying to get it going so I could have some fun with my brand new Sabertooth.

I'll say it again..............I love this board!







It is just so smooth and has such a nice bios to work with. That fan problem is a very minor thing and nothing that concerns me. And of course this could still operator error on my part. Maybe I'm doing something wrong.


----------



## Warped Trekker

Anyone ever get the on-board RAID working with Windows 8.1?

In the BIOS, I selected Option RAID ROM, and RAID for the SATA ports. I configure the RAID, and then boot to Windows DVD. When it asks for a driver, I use the AMD AHCI RAID Driver. It tries to load the driver, and then system freezes. Can't get past this freeze!

ASUS Sabertooth 990FX/Gen3.0 R2.0


----------



## Mega Man

iirc you need to use the windows driver and it will work fine !


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warped Trekker*
> 
> Anyone ever get the on-board RAID working with Windows 8.1?
> 
> In the BIOS, I selected Option RAID ROM, and RAID for the SATA ports. I configure the RAID, and then boot to Windows DVD. When it asks for a driver, I use the AMD AHCI RAID Driver. It tries to load the driver, and then system freezes. Can't get past this freeze!
> 
> ASUS Sabertooth 990FX/Gen3.0 R2.0


dont use the amd driver


----------



## philhalo66

I seem to have a problem, i have a 250CFM fan from a dell machine (rewired of course) and the MoBo will not control the fan speed on any fan headers accept for the 2 CPU fan headers im wondering if it isn't a bad fan controller and if i shouldn't contact ASUS what do you guys think.


----------



## Mega Man

possible but it would be SEVERAL controllers and very unlikely unless you had been running it directly off headers, as that may pull too many amps, you want a fan controller for a fan that powerful


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> I seem to have a problem, i have a 250CFM fan from a dell machine (rewired of course) and the MoBo will not control the fan speed on any fan headers accept for the 2 CPU fan headers im wondering if it isn't a bad fan controller and if i shouldn't contact ASUS what do you guys think.


What? 250 CFM fan on a mobo header?

No., You'd be lucky not smoke out your fan headers.

My Yate Loon 3000 RPMs require a molex.
Same with my Silverstone 2000 RPMs.

For it to push 250 CFM, it has to rotate at least to 4500RPM which will eventually require a much coarser magnetic wire winding strands. Which of course will suck more Current or Amps as @megaman said.

I'm guessing something like this.

Note: one of them starts at 5 Amps!!! Most fans a motherboard header can support are like less than an Ampere.

Edit: why would you even need one? Do you want your PC to fly?


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> possible but it would be SEVERAL controllers and very unlikely unless you had been running it directly off headers, as that may pull too many amps, you want a fan controller for a fan that powerful


Hmm it seems to let me control the other 3 pin fans. It's really weird im going class it as a screwed up fan.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> What? 250 CFM fan on a mobo header?
> 
> No., You'd be lucky not smoke out your fan headers.
> 
> My Yate Loon 3000 RPMs require a molex.
> Same with my Silverstone 2000 RPMs.
> 
> For it to push 250 CFM, it has to rotate at least to 4500RPM which will eventually require a much coarser magnetic wire winding strands. Which of course will suck more Current or Amps as @megaman said.
> 
> I'm guessing something like this.
> 
> Note: one of them starts at 5 Amps!!! Most fans a motherboard header can support are like less than an Ampere.
> 
> Edit: why would you even need one? Do you want your PC to fly?


Actually its 5500 RPM lol and relax i got it wired with a molex for the actual power and a 4 pin for the tachometer and the PWM.

Edit: my cpu cooler is junk i can't even keep it under 70C at 4.5GHZ 1.32V so i wired this bad boy up to it and at 4.8 1.47V its topping out at 50C this is the fan in question http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835706015 or atleast some version of it


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Hmm it seems to let me control the other 3 pin fans. It's really weird im going class it as a screwed up fan.
> Actually its 5500 RPM lol and relax i got it wired with a molex for the actual power and a 4 pin for the tachometer and the PWM.
> 
> Edit: my cpu cooler is junk i can't even keep it under 70C at 4.5GHZ 1.32V so i wired this bad boy up to it and at 4.8 1.47V its topping out at 50C this is the fan in question http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835706015 or atleast some version of it


It did made your rig fly..









I actually was looking for a fan like that for my silver arrow. But, nah.. Too noisy now.. Not coming back


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> It did made your rig fly..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually was looking for a fan like that for my silver arrow. But, nah.. Too noisy now.. Not coming back


lol hasn't taken off yet but i also haven't even had it to 75% yet, I had it at 70% last night while playing GTA IV i had trouble hearing the game over it. even at 50% its fairly quiet and pushes a massive amount of air.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> lol hasn't taken off yet but i also haven't even had it to 75% yet, I had it at 70% last night while playing GTA IV i had trouble hearing the game over it. even at 50% its fairly quiet and pushes a massive amount of air.


It's rockin' at 4.8 already so it does fly. You know what I mean.









At 50%, that still means 2500 RPM. It will still be loud. Ohh wait, it will be very loud when you switch to Water.









But yeah still a massive gain.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> It's rockin' at 4.8 already so it does fly. You know what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At 50%, that still means 2500 RPM. It will still be loud. Ohh wait, it will be very loud when you switch to Water.


ahaha im not going to switch to water with this build, my next setup will be a a completely different build.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> ahaha im not going to switch to water with this build, my next setup will be a a completely different build.


Hmm I has to guess-guess.

Hexa-core Haswell Extreme? Yummy


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Hmm I has to guess-guess.
> 
> Hexa-core Haswell Extreme? Yummy


lol too expensive , more than likely it will be an i7 4770K and a GTX 780 Ti i will watercool that system and of course a sabertooth Z97


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> lol too expensive , more than likely it will be an i7 4770K and a GTX 780 Ti i will watercool that system and of course a sabertooth Z97


Go for a 4790k


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> possible but it would be SEVERAL controllers and very unlikely unless you had been running it directly off headers, as that may pull too many amps, you want a fan controller for a fan that powerful
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm it seems to let me control the other 3 pin fans. It's really weird im going class it as a screwed up fan.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> What? 250 CFM fan on a mobo header?
> 
> No., You'd be lucky not smoke out your fan headers.
> 
> My Yate Loon 3000 RPMs require a molex.
> Same with my Silverstone 2000 RPMs.
> 
> For it to push 250 CFM, it has to rotate at least to 4500RPM which will eventually require a much coarser magnetic wire winding strands. Which of course will suck more Current or Amps as @megaman said.
> 
> I'm guessing something like this.
> 
> Note: one of them starts at 5 Amps!!! Most fans a motherboard header can support are like less than an Ampere.
> 
> Edit: why would you even need one? Do you want your PC to fly?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Actually its 5500 RPM lol and relax i got it wired with a molex for the actual power and a 4 pin for the tachometer and the PWM.
> 
> Edit: my cpu cooler is junk i can't even keep it under 70C at 4.5GHZ 1.32V so i wired this bad boy up to it and at 4.8 1.47V its topping out at 50C this is the fan in question http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835706015 or atleast some version of it
Click to expand...

AH ha now I can help.

The only own headers on the board are cpu/ cpu opt. Which is just one header ( basically they use one cup to control both headers) all others on board are 4 pin. But not pwm.

Seriously although I hate it. Very very few mobos have multiple pwm headers. I know of one current board that does ( not including cpu/cpu opt )
At amd side


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> AH ha now I can help.
> 
> The only own headers on the board are cpu/ cpu opt. Which is just one header ( basically they use one cup to control both headers) all others on board are 4 pin. But not pwm.
> 
> Seriously although I hate it. Very very few mobos have multiple pwm headers. I know of one current board that does ( not including cpu/cpu opt )
> At amd side


well that explains alot! thanks.


----------



## Mega Man

i was on phone sorry, owm was supposed to be pwm !~


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i was on phone sorry, owm was supposed to be pwm !~


Its fine i understood you.


----------



## philhalo66

Anybody know of a place to get a replacement VRM thermal pad the stock one is screwed up because i took off the VRM/NB heatsink to clean it because of the crap my brother sprays around is oil based and it literally made the dust cake on a solid 1/16 inch and only hot water could remove it and obviously i had to pull off the thermal pad and now its all stretched out even though i was super careful.


----------



## warpuck

Is there any way to get the 8350 to boot with 1,35 and reduce to 1.29 after windows loads ? I notice a temp drop under load using turbo V & it runs stable at 1.29. Sabertooth R1. The system hangs in the windows boot screen with 1.29 volts.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> Is there any way to get the 8350 to boot with 1,35 and reduce to 1.29 after windows loads ? I notice a temp drop under load using turbo V & it runs stable at 1.29. Sabertooth R1. The system hangs in the windows boot screen with 1.29 volts.


try turning off turbo boost


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> Is there any way to get the 8350 to boot with 1,35 and reduce to 1.29 after windows loads ? I notice a temp drop under load using turbo V & it runs stable at 1.29. Sabertooth R1. The system hangs in the windows boot screen with 1.29 volts.


What?

Correct me if I am wrong but it seems to me you are running stock with the stock cooler.

If it fails to boot into Windows at 1.29, it means it can't be stable at 1.29. If you don't mind turning Turbo Boost off, you can try if it can make you boot into Windows and still keep it stable.

If not, try a lower clock. (Underclocking)







or better yet, get a better cooler.


----------



## warpuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> What?
> 
> Correct me if I am wrong but it seems to me you are running stock with the stock cooler.
> 
> If it fails to boot into Windows at 1.29, it means it can't be stable at 1.29. If you don't mind turning Turbo Boost off, you can try if it can make you boot into Windows and still keep it stable.
> 
> If not, try a lower clock. (Underclocking)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or better yet, get a better cooler.


yes stock clocks. A Thermaltake performer water 2.0 120mm push/pull is not good enough for summer temps. I need a H100i and a case it will fit in. I have an R1. I turned off cores 5-8. That works keeping the CPU & VR temps down. 4 cores at 4400 is good enough, barely. 30C ambient sucks. I will try turning off Turbo boost and turning all the cores on


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> yes stock clocks. A Thermaltake performer water 2.0 120mm push/pull is not good enough for summer temps. I need a H100i and a case it will fit in. I have an R1. I turned off cores 5-8. That works keeping the CPU & VR temps down. 4 cores at 4400 is good enough, barely. 30C ambient sucks. I will try turning off Turbo boost and turning all the cores on


are you sure its mounted right its been about 35C ambient for the past week here and mine tops out at 45C at 4.6GHZ 1.35V


----------



## mus1mus

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Sorry


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> yes stock clocks. A Thermaltake performer water 2.0 120mm push/pull is not good enough for summer temps. I need a H100i and a case it will fit in. I have an R1. I turned off cores 5-8. That works keeping the CPU & VR temps down. 4 cores at 4400 is good enough, barely. 30C ambient sucks. I will try turning off Turbo boost and turning all the cores on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> are you sure its mounted right its been about 35C ambient for the past week here and mine tops out at 45C at 4.6GHZ 1.35V
Click to expand...

Try this ^^









But yeah, I'm with you in the ambient temps.

I'm living in a place where a month ago, temps are reaching high 30s. Even 2 slim 360 can't cope..


----------



## warpuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Try this ^^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah, I'm with you in the ambient temps.
> 
> I'm living in a place where a month ago, temps are reaching high 30s. Even 2 slim 360 can't cope..


Philhalo & you were right on with turn off turbo boost. runs at constant 8 core 4,0 Ghz starts 1.29 and drops to 1.27, even better. Full load went from the 60s or runaway on the CPU to 50. Idles at 40. Still going to save up for a new case and a larger radiator. may add a 2nd 7870 too (used). Thanks for the help















:bike:


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> Philhalo & you were right on with turn off turbo boost. runs at constant 8 core 4,0 Ghz starts 1.29 and drops to 1.27, even better. Full load went from the 60s or runaway on the CPU to 50. Idles at 40. Still going to save up for a new case and a larger radiator. may add a 2nd 7870 too (used). Thanks for the help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :bike:


Still, could be better.
1. If you can redo the mounting, try. Is the pump making weird noise?
As well as TIM application
2. Opt for a better set of fans first. Or
3.improve case airflow. Is the rad exhaust or intake?

Correct me if I'm wrong but, those CLCs are derivatives of Asetek.

But all in all, you shouldn't be hitting that temp.


----------



## miklkit

Hi!

I got a Sabertooth. The first one was warped. I took it out, looked at it, and RMAd it. The next one is only a little warped and I decided to use it. Installed it yesterday and it ran right away with no tweaking required first. But it runs hot. Not used to this much heat. Been reading and tweaking and the 8350 is up to what seems to be a stable 4.7ghz so far.

Now the mouse is dragging and stuttering. I read somewhere about some setting that helps with this, but now I can't find it. Any ideas there?


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> I got a Sabertooth. The first one was warped. I took it out, looked at it, and RMAd it. The next one is only a little warped and I decided to use it. Installed it yesterday and it ran right away with no tweaking required first. But it runs hot. Not used to this much heat. Been reading and tweaking and the 8350 is up to what seems to be a stable 4.7ghz so far.
> 
> Now the mouse is dragging and stuttering. I read somewhere about some setting that helps with this, but now I can't find it. Any ideas there?


Are all of the components the ones you used in Blackie? If they are not, could you post them including the case?


----------



## miklkit

The only things different are the motherboard and the cpu. It went from an MSI GD80 and 9590 to an ASUS Sabertooth and an 8350. I will try the 9590 again when I'm comfortable with this setup.

Uh ohhh........I am now getting periodic warnings onscreen that the cpu core is at -117C!


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> The only things different are the motherboard and the cpu. It went from an MSI GD80 and 9590 to an ASUS Sabertooth and an 8350. I will try the 9590 again when I'm comfortable with this setup.
> 
> Uh ohhh........I am now getting periodic warnings onscreen that the cpu core is at -117C!


yeah i would ignore that i get warnings about 12V rail being 0.14V every now and then just keep an eye on the CPU temp in thermal radar (not package temp that's not accurate)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> The only things different are the motherboard and the cpu. It went from an MSI GD80 and 9590 to an ASUS Sabertooth and an 8350. I will try the 9590 again when I'm comfortable with this setup.
> 
> Uh ohhh........I am now getting periodic warnings onscreen that the cpu core is at -117C!


Step one. Uninstall AI Suite
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> The only things different are the motherboard and the cpu. It went from an MSI GD80 and 9590 to an ASUS Sabertooth and an 8350. I will try the 9590 again when I'm comfortable with this setup.
> 
> Uh ohhh........I am now getting periodic warnings onscreen that the cpu core is at -117C!
> 
> 
> 
> yeah i would ignore that i get warnings about 12V rail being 0.14V every now and then just keep an eye on the CPU temp in thermal radar (not package temp that's not accurate)
Click to expand...

You do know thermal radar reads socket temp?

HWinfo ftw!


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Step one. Uninstall AI Suite
> You do know thermal radar reads socket temp?
> 
> HWinfo ftw!


yeah I know i was just stating not to believe the package temp over the cpu temp in thermal radar.


----------



## miklkit

I found out the cause of the mouse stuttering. It is something called asus ec in hwinfo64. When I stopped monitoring it the mouse smoothed out, but now I have no way to monitor the VRM temps except for thermal radar in AI suite. I have already seen them get well into the 60C range, which is quite a difference from the 35-40C range I'm used to.

Errr, how does one uninstall ai suite and keep thermal radar?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I found out the cause of the mouse stuttering. It is something called asus ec in hwinfo64. When I stopped monitoring it the mouse smoothed out, but now I have no way to monitor the VRM temps except for thermal radar in AI suite. I have already seen them get well into the 60C range, which is quite a difference from the 35-40C range I'm used to.
> 
> Errr, how does one uninstall ai suite and keep thermal radar?


HWInfo reads Vcore temps which are the VRMs..

Scratch Thermal Radar..


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> HWInfo reads Vcore temps which are the VRMs..
> 
> Scratch Thermal Radar..


yeah but it causes stuttering and in my case BSOD, HWinfo64 even warns you to disable it for that reason


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> yeah but it causes stuttering and in my case BSOD, HWinfo64 even warns you to disable it for that reason


Upon installing, or first run, disable those sensors.

Never had any issues on mine.

You can see HWInfo display those albeit with common naming.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> yeah but it causes stuttering and in my case BSOD, HWinfo64 even warns you to disable it for that reason


For me it causes the mouse to lag and stutter. Yesterday I read somewhere that if some setting gets bumped up the lag will go away, and I did. Now I want to bump it more but can no longer find that statement and do not know what to bump.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Upon installing, or first run, disable those sensors.
> 
> Never had any issues on mine.
> 
> You can see HWInfo display those albeit with common naming.


but if you disable that sensor you cannot monitor the VRM. I been thinking since you got gen 1 sabertooth and both of us have a gen 2 maybe its something to do with that


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> but if you disable that sensor you cannot monitor the VRM. I been thinking since you got gen 1 sabertooth and both of us have a gen 2 maybe its something to do with that


AFAIK, I monitor my VRMs using Vcore-1 or Vcore -2.. Not on my PC at the moment.

I have the R 2.0

IIRC, I got some lag issues as well when I have EC? enabled with HWInfo.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Upon installing, or first run, disable those sensors.
> 
> Never had any issues on mine.
> 
> You can see HWInfo display those albeit with common naming.
> 
> 
> 
> but if you disable that sensor you cannot monitor the VRM. I been thinking since you got gen 1 sabertooth and both of us have a gen 2 maybe its something to do with that
Click to expand...

i never have issues and i have a gen 2


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i never have issues and i have a gen 2


It sounds like you might be outvoted 3 to 1. The only way I can stop the mouse lag is to turn off hwinfo.


----------



## zila

I also have an Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 and I have Asus EC enabled in HwInfo64 with no ill effects. Strange, I wonder why your having problems with it?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> It sounds like you might be outvoted 3 to 1. The only way I can stop the mouse lag is to turn off hwinfo.


Turn EC off.
Vcore1 is the VRM.
Doesn't have any issues.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> I also have an Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 and I have Asus EC enabled in HwInfo64 with no ill effects. Strange, I wonder why your having problems with it?


OS maybe.


----------



## miklkit

Hmmph. After reading about everyone ghetto rigging fans all over their mobos because of overheating I bought this one just because it has the VRM sensor, and now ya tell me to not use it...................


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Hmmph. After reading about everyone ghetto rigging fans all over their mobos because of overheating I bought this one just because it has the VRM sensor, and now ya tell me to not use it...................


unless your really really pushing an 8 core you don't even need a dedicated fan this MoBo has very good quality MOSFET'S so it will throttle way before any damage is done, so unless you are throttling you dont need one.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Hmmph. After reading about everyone ghetto rigging fans all over their mobos because of overheating I bought this one just because it has the VRM sensor, and now ya tell me to not use it...................


The sensors are not being disabled if you don't install Asus' monitoring software.

The software is BUUUUGGGYYY. Plain and simple.

Please do yourself the service of your own rig. HWInfo displays them all. After installing HWInfo, and running it the first time, it will ask you to Enable or Disable EC(can't remember what it's called). But enabling it has some issues. So I keep on coming back at you to disabled that option.









Vcore-1 - VRM temps.
Vcore-2 - Is also a VRM sensor.
RAM also has a sensor.

You can verify this be installing both Thermal Radar and HWInfo with EC disabled.

The reason people don't use Thernal Radar is that it shows weird readings. It gives readings for my RAM for example getting -265 C. Nuts!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> unless your really really pushing an 8 core you don't even need a dedicated fan this MoBo has very good quality MOSFET'S so it will throttle way before any damage is done, so unless you are throttling you dont need one.


Yes, But depends on more factors.

My case is a bit cramped. And my ambient is around playing up to high 30s( room temps).

Even a crappy fan helps drop 10 degrees on the VRMs at Vcore frequency of 450. Plus a backside fan to drop my socket temps around that as well at full load.

VRM temp maxes out at 75 at 5GHz Prime. Imagine that without them fans.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> The sensors are not being disabled if you don't install Asus' monitoring software.
> 
> The software is BUUUUGGGYYY. Plain and simple.
> 
> Please do yourself the service of your own rig. HWInfo displays them all. After installing HWInfo, and running it the first time, it will ask you to Enable or Disable EC(can't remember what it's called). But enabling it has some issues. So I keep on coming back at you to disabled that option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Vcore-1 - VRM temps.
> Vcore-2 - Is also a VRM sensor.
> RAM also has a sensor.
> 
> You can verify this be installing both Thermal Radar and HWInfo with EC disabled.
> 
> The reason people don't use Thernal Radar is that it shows weird readings. It gives readings for my RAM for example getting -265 C. Nuts!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, But depends on more factors.
> 
> My case is a bit cramped. And my ambient is around playing up to high 30s( room temps).
> 
> Even a crappy fan helps drop 10 degrees on the VRMs at Vcore frequency of 450. Plus a backside fan to drop my socket temps around that as well at full load.
> 
> VRM temp maxes out at 75 at 5GHz Prime. Imagine that without them fans.


0.o 75C what are you running for a processor a 9590? even with my 6300 at 1.6V 5.1GHz my VRM maxes at 62C with 35C+ room temps


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> 0.o 75C what are you running for a processor a 9590? even with my 6300 at 1.6V 5.1GHz my VRM maxes at 62C with 35C+ room temps


8320







1.63V


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 8320
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1.63V


lol that explains it


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> lol that explains it


Lol. Those are the reasons. haha

But might need to reconfigure my rads and fans to pure exhaust duties. Might improve case temp.


----------



## miklkit

I know how to turn that asus ec section on and off. Been there done that.

Gotta decision to make. I'm going on a trip and when I get back this mobo is coming out. It will either be returned or it will go on top of the pile of parts for the future water cooled rig. I'm still several hundred dollars worth of parts shy of getting that one up.

About VRMs. When it first started up with default settings the VRMs were running as hot as 66C and I was thinking about how hot they would get when I started OCing. It's up to 4.7ghz with really slow ram and they are running in the 39-42C range. The CPU cooling fans are running faster now and the extra airflow really makes a difference. Still, the VRMs in the MSI GD80 run in the 34-40 range.


----------



## [email protected]

Anyone have instability in bios revision 2501? (About overclock)


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Anyone have instability in bios revision 2501? (About overclock)


it's been fine for me since release of 2501


----------



## Synister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Anyone have instability in bios revision 2501? (About overclock)


I know there are a few users from the FX owners thread, who are running a much earlier BIOS than latest on their Kitties! As for there being a benefit, no idea!


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Anyone have instability in bios revision 2501? (About overclock)


Running fine here just had to install it off a usb stick. The initial download and install failed.


----------



## warpuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Still, could be better.
> 1. If you can redo the mounting, try. Is the pump making weird noise?
> As well as TIM application
> 2. Opt for a better set of fans first. Or
> 3.improve case airflow. Is the rad exhaust or intake?
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong but, those CLCs are derivatives of Asetek.
> 
> But all in all, you shouldn't be hitting that temp.


I reapplied the thermal grease. All I had was xigmatek oem grease. That helped.

I am using this fan as a pusher http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12944/fan-858/Sunon_120mm_x_25mm_Precision_Ball_Bearing_Fan_-1500_CFM_PMD1212PTB1-A.html connected to optional cpu header Next is A 25mm spacer between radiator and pusher and a puller corsair fan off a A70 cooler similar to these http://www.corsair.com/en-us/air-series-af120-quiet-edition-high-airflow-120mm-fan connected to on of the case headers. I have no thermal problems as long as the total cpu load stays between 50-80% on all cores @ 4400Mhz. The pump is connect to the cpu header Thanks. Sometimes if you look at a problem too long you look past the obvious.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Still, could be better.
> 1. If you can redo the mounting, try. Is the pump making weird noise?
> As well as TIM application
> 2. Opt for a better set of fans first. Or
> 3.improve case airflow. Is the rad exhaust or intake?
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong but, those CLCs are derivatives of Asetek.
> 
> But all in all, you shouldn't be hitting that temp.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> I reapplied the thermal grease. All I had was xigmatek oem grease. That helped.
> 
> I am using this fan as a pusher http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12944/fan-858/Sunon_120mm_x_25mm_Precision_Ball_Bearing_Fan_-1500_CFM_PMD1212PTB1-A.html connected to optional cpu header Next is A 25mm spacer between radiator and pusher and a puller corsair fan off a A70 cooler similar to these http://www.corsair.com/en-us/air-series-af120-quiet-edition-high-airflow-120mm-fan connected to on of the case headers. I have no thermal problems as long as the total cpu load stays between 50-80% on all cores @ 4400Mhz. The pump is connect to the cpu header Thanks. Sometimes if you look at a problem too long you look past the obvious.
Click to expand...

Thermal paste you are using isn't really something too good but that will do.









How do you apply your thermal paste? Pea method works best IMO..

That Sunon is a monster. Aren't those too loud for you?









What temps are we looking at with the current state of your rig?


----------



## THC Butterz

I bought a Asus nfc express, without reading the compatability list, haven't tried WiFi go, but all the nfc features seem to work perfectly with my sabertooth R1 on Windows 8.1


----------



## Krusher33

My board keeps setting the time back 2 hours. Is there an auto update or something that I'm overlooking. Annoying as hell having to go into bios every few days to correct the time.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> My board keeps setting the time back 2 hours. Is there an auto update or something that I'm overlooking. Annoying as hell having to go into bios every few days to correct the time.


Sounds like the Windows internet time sync deal. I have to disable internet time sync everytime I re-install Win7 because of that.


----------



## mus1mus

Time zones?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> My board keeps setting the time back 2 hours. Is there an auto update or something that I'm overlooking. Annoying as hell having to go into bios every few days to correct the time.
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like the Windows internet time sync deal. I have to disable internet time sync everytime I re-install Win7 because of that.
Click to expand...

I dunno what that is? And why is it messing with my time in my BIOS?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Time zones?


Has to be. I'm CST, it's changing to PST. But what's changing it in BIOS?


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I dunno what that is? And why is it messing with my time in my BIOS?
> Has to be. I'm CST, it's changing to PST. But what's changing it in BIOS?


pretty sure windows sync the time and also changes the time in the UEFI/BIOS


----------



## SwishaMane

Thats how Windows knows the system time, through the BIOS. You can easily change the BIOs time and date setting via changing them in Windows. The two go hand in hand. You probably have to disable the time sync. Its just another sub menu once you get to adjusting the time and date. BUT, Ive never used 8.1, so maybe they changed it around a bit?


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah that's the thing. It keeps changing back in BIOS. I thought Windows sync with what's in BIOS. I want windows to sync its time with BIOS. But I don't want it changing the time in BIOS. I didn't know that it does that? Never happened until recently. Maybe a month or 2 now. Which is why I'm pretty confused.


----------



## mus1mus

Windows will change the BIOS time. And its better to update your time inside windows. Unless you have the right time zone for example on windows that sticks, changing it on the BIOS will get changes as you enter windows.

Change your time zone first, then time inside windows. Time first then time zone will not work. Unless you have this covered already.


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah I found that I was set to Pacific time in Windows.

I do not think Windows should be messing with my BIOS time but that's just me I guess. The time in BIOS should be the reference.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Yeah I found that I was set to Pacific time in Windows.
> 
> I do not think Windows should be messing with my BIOS time but that's just me I guess. The time in BIOS should be the reference.


lol windows has been like that since the DOS days man, it's unlikely they will change it now.


----------



## Krusher33

This is a first for me. I've never seen windows changed my bios time.


----------



## mus1mus

Unless you are using a stand alone PC, not being on the internet, it will follow your bios.

Else, this takes control.http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Network_Time_Protocol


----------



## warpuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Thermal paste you are using isn't really something too good but that will do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do you apply your thermal paste? Pea method works best IMO..
> 
> That Sunon is a monster. Aren't those too loud for you?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What temps are we looking at with the current state of your rig?


I cleaned and applied Arctic MX-2, added a 7790 to run the 2nd 1080p monitor. The 7870 runs the 2560 x1440 monitor. I did that to keep the monitors separate. The last version of catalyst auto spans across both monitors and don't like that. I have it running at 4.5Ghz by just increasing the cpu multiplier and get 49-51C with a moderate load. added 2 x2 Ghz ram 12 G total. Dropped to 1333 memory speed, loosened the timings. set the memory bridge to 2400, enabled precision computing & IOMMU. That so far has eliminated the random blue screens I was getting. The sunon is quiet enough under load to not be audible over A/C unit running at slowest speed. It runs between 1850 and 1950 RPM most of the time. I could probably take the pulling fan out. But I am not sure it would be as quiet without it. I used the cross and small pea in the middle on the cpu. I noticed that temps were better.The next day even better. I guess this will have to do until I get a case that a bigger cooler will fit in. 4.5 Ghz is good enough for what I use it for and it runs good with 27-30C ambient.


----------



## WeSbO

Hello everyone.

Am here for a little bit of advice.
I recently purchased a sabertooth 990fx r2.0 and an fx8320, i've overclocked it to 4.5ghz (4.6ghz was stable but needed to much extra voltage to get there so it's not Worth it for the 100mhz extra anyways) my temps are fine but i'am a bit surprised by my usb3.0-1 temperature at idle at 1.4ghz at 1.003v (do not have anything in the usb 3) i'am getting 46° as hot as my vcore-1. To me that seems to be to high for a usb 3 port and when not been used, Am I wrong ? Ambient temp of the room 29°-30°
I use HWinfo64 for the temp readings, that give the same readings as the thermal radar.

Also how accurate are the voltage readings on the sabertooth ? As I find my voltage not to be that good though stable, and nothing alarming (psu EVGA supernova 850 g2)

Thanks alot in advance.


----------



## mus1mus

The sensors are bugged on this board. Nothing to worry.

Glitches like that flood this thread. Lol just take note of the important ones. Core temp is the package on HWInfo, Socket is CPU, Vcore-1 for the VRMs etc.

For Vcore to be stable (least swings) you need trial and error. Switching Frequency plays a factor as well as the increments on the adjustments. Not to mention LLC settings.

The regulars can give you a quicker guide on the Voltages. I can't. Simply because typing on mobile is a PITA.

But I can give you this: my Vcore swings less with High LLC on the core, Switching Freq of 450, and usually if one value swing a lot, going to or fro the next increment lessens it. ie. 1.475000 on the BIOS is swing a lot, 1.468750 or 1.481250 (note of the 0.006250 increments) will solve it. More or less.

Requires a lot more lovin' really.


----------



## WeSbO

Yes I gahered that the sensors where not reading properly, even so I have done a "Vcore ghetto mod fan" just in case and can't really do harm.

Whan I was talking about the voltages I should have been more precise, the cpu voltage is stable. I was talking about the +12v +5v and +3.3 readings, and how precise they where. coz i'am getting 11.952v, 4.974v and 3.264v no matter what cpu voltage or load.


----------



## mus1mus

Apologies, my bad!

Those can be a PSU attribute. And are more or less normal!

Rectification and regulation can only do so much you know.


----------



## WeSbO

Okay, thanks alot for the info







I would have been worried if my voltages where going everywhere, but they are rock solid stable, I'll have to invest in a multimeter one of these days...


----------



## TwiggLe

Can you use the Gen3 R2.0 bios on a gen 1 board? Noticed that the first gen hasn't been updated in a few years.. but the newest gen has a release from just this past May.


----------



## mus1mus

NOPE!


----------



## philhalo66

What exactly is the difference between Gen3 and the normal ReV. 2.0? when i originally was buying my new system i could not find the gen3 anywhere not even newegg had it. Newegg claimed the 2.0 was newer.


----------



## mus1mus

R2.0 gen 3 promised PCIe 3.0 slots by adding a PLX chip into the mix. AMD doesn't support PCIe 3.0 on FX chips.

But they somewhat got them wrong. There is a thread flooded with the issues of that board so they kind of pulled them back the way I see it and continues to offer the R2.0

I just can't find that thread but it was referred to a series of posts on the FX thread when I am asking for a recommended board.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> The sensors are bugged on this board. Nothing to worry.
> 
> Glitches like that flood this thread. Lol just take note of the important ones. Core temp is the package on HWInfo, Socket is CPU, Vcore-1 for the VRMs etc.
> 
> For Vcore to be stable (least swings) you need trial and error. Switching Frequency plays a factor as well as the increments on the adjustments. Not to mention LLC settings.
> 
> The regulars can give you a quicker guide on the Voltages. I can't. Simply because typing on mobile is a PITA.
> 
> But I can give you this: my Vcore swings less with High LLC on the core, Switching Freq of 450, and usually if one value swing a lot, going to or fro the next increment lessens it. ie. 1.475000 on the BIOS is swing a lot, 1.468750 or 1.481250 (note of the 0.006250 increments) will solve it. More or less.
> 
> Requires a lot more lovin' really.


nope they are not bugged dmm is always the way to go .

however it sounds like you are using ai suite ( other user not mus )

try HWINFO


----------



## WeSbO

Hello Mega Man, nope i'am not using AI suite (not even installed) i'm already using HWinfo as I mentionned above,.


----------



## Mike The Owl

So I have spent some funds and moved up from my Gigabyte 78LMT-USB3 R.5 to the famed Saberkitty 990FX R.2. Only had it two days but it is one hell of a move up.



I have no idea where to start on overclocking via the bios, to many settings to learn about, not enough time,

I'm sure someone has some starter settings for my long toothed kitty, anyone prepared to start me off!

Mike the Owl


----------



## Alanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> So I have spent some funds and moved up from my Gigabyte 78LMT-USB3 R.5 to the famed Saberkitty 990FX R.2. Only had it two days but it is one hell of a move up.
> 
> 
> 
> I have no idea where to start on overclocking via the bios, to many settings to learn about, not enough time,
> 
> I'm sure someone has some starter settings for my long toothed kitty, anyone prepared to start me off!
> 
> Mike the Owl


It's hard to find someone who's willing to help with this. But I'll be here for you!







Though, some chips are better than others, some chips are worse you know. Even if its the same motherboard model, it could be a different batch. But try this. BUT, before you continue, I hope that you have a aftermarket cooler on your CPU.

Lol, it made me think.. What CPU do you got? Im having a hard time to see what hardware u got on that pic, its too small, and if I zoom in, its just blurs..

BTW. I have a question. I have emailed ASUS and asked whats the recommended maximum temperature on the VRMs. Still waiting for a reply, but do anyone of u guys know?


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alanthor*
> 
> It's hard to find someone who's willing to help with this. But I'll be here for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though, some chips are better than others, some chips are worse you know. Even if its the same motherboard model, it could be a different batch. But try this. BUT, before you continue, I hope that you have a aftermarket cooler on your CPU.
> 
> Lol, it made me think.. What CPU do you got? Im having a hard time to see what hardware u got on that pic, its too small, and if I zoom in, its just blurs..
> 
> BTW. I have a question. I have emailed ASUS and asked whats the recommended maximum temperature on the VRMs. Still waiting for a reply, but do anyone of u guys know?


cheers Alanthor, the guys on the fx forum gave me some guides and settings that have got me to 4.8



Now looking at 5ghz as a target!


----------



## Alanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> cheers Alanthor, the guys on the fx forum gave me some guides and settings that have got me to 4.8
> 
> 
> 
> Now looking at 5ghz as a target!


Ah, then I guess you dont need my help. Im not able to push it over 4.6GHz cuz of the temperatures. Im aircooled.

My setup is:
23x multi
200 bus
1.440Vcore in load
2400MHz HT Link


----------



## Mike The Owl

hardware wise I'm using fx8350 cooled with a H80i, the case is a Haf 922 which is heavily modified for through airflow, coming from a 4+1 mobo I a fan blowing at the back of the mobo, a fam on the north bridge, a fan blowing at the VRMs , a lot of the guys here helped me with the airflow which has meant I get cool figures, 47c on the CPU and 41c on VRMs, I haven't stress tested for more than 30 minutes so will run overnight to check if stable.


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alanthor*
> 
> It's hard to find someone who's willing to help with this. But I'll be here for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though, some chips are better than others, some chips are worse you know. Even if its the same motherboard model, it could be a different batch. But try this. BUT, before you continue, I hope that you have a aftermarket cooler on your CPU.
> 
> Lol, it made me think.. What CPU do you got? Im having a hard time to see what hardware u got on that pic, its too small, and if I zoom in, its just blurs..
> 
> BTW. I have a question. I have emailed ASUS and asked whats the recommended maximum temperature on the VRMs. Still waiting for a reply, but do anyone of u guys know?


cheers Alanthor

Gertruude on the fx8350 forum gave me some starter settings which has given me a 4.8 overclock out of the box


iv'e a fx8350 which seems like it may be a good over locker so I am keen to have a go at the fabled 5ghz overclock.

the vrm temps are supposed to be able to go as high as 100c


----------



## mus1mus

Temps look good and that chip could be a winner!!!

But still, AIDA would be around 10C cooler than Prime.


----------



## Mega Man

sounds like your doing fine let me know if you need any helps


----------



## Alanthor

Got my reply from ASUS Support today. This info is new for me, I had no idea before.

But here it is, for guys who dont know.
CPU's itself have onboard temp sensor. CPU in Thermal radar is reading from the actual CPU onboard sensor.
AND, the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 also have temp sensors on the mainboard within proximity of the CPU.. I dno if I missunderstood him.. But heres the original email.
Quote:


> Hello *****
> I hope it is OK that I answer in English, however you can reply in your own language if you prefer.
> Normally you should be worried if it passes 55C, meaning peak 55-65 is not bad, but it should not run constant on these temps, as the mainboard will eventually take damage from this.
> 
> Second, there is a sensor onboard, and there are sensors on the mainboard, both in proximity to the CPU and other components, so yes, depending on the sensor you read you will get some offset.
> There is one more thing, different software use different algorithm to read a active sensor, so you can get different result based on that as well.
> 
> However, CPU in thermal radar is the CPU itself, as all CPU's have onboard sensors.
> 
> Please rate this email. Your satisfaction is very important for us. If you think we could have done anything more to assist you
> please let us know by replying this email. Your feedback will be passed to the person or persons related.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alanthor*
> 
> Got my reply from ASUS Support today. This info is new for me, I had no idea before.
> 
> But here it is, for guys who dont know.
> CPU's itself have onboard temp sensor. CPU in Thermal radar is reading from the actual CPU onboard sensor.
> AND, the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 also have temp sensors on the mainboard within proximity of the CPU.. I dno if I missunderstood him.. But heres the original email.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello *****
> I hope it is OK that I answer in English, however you can reply in your own language if you prefer.
> Normally you should be worried if it passes 55C, meaning peak 55-65 is not bad, but it should not run constant on these temps, as the mainboard will eventually take damage from this.
> 
> Second, there is a sensor onboard, and there are sensors on the mainboard, both in proximity to the CPU and other components, so yes, depending on the sensor you read you will get some offset.
> There is one more thing, different software use different algorithm to read a active sensor, so you can get different result based on that as well.
> 
> However, CPU in thermal radar is the CPU itself, as all CPU's have onboard sensors.
> 
> Please rate this email. Your satisfaction is very important for us. If you think we could have done anything more to assist you
> please let us know by replying this email. Your feedback will be passed to the person or persons related.
Click to expand...

he is incorrect. as usual as this is a scripted response

aisuite uses socket if i recall correctly

esp as there is NO sensor on a amd cpu, but rather it uses a algorithm that is more accurate to temp the closer to full load

even on my RIVBE it is a different sensor and NOT the one located on the CPU


----------



## Alanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> he is incorrect. as usual as this is a scripted response
> 
> aisuite uses socket if i recall correctly
> 
> esp as there is NO sensor on a amd cpu, but rather it uses a algorithm that is more accurate to temp the closer to full load
> 
> even on my RIVBE it is a different sensor and NOT the one located on the CPU


I doubt it's a scripted response, as he answered on all my questions.. And how come you are certain that he is incorrect, why cant you be incorrect?

Im sorry if I sound harsh, I dont mean to be cocky or anything.. I just wanna know, how u know that he is incorect? Maybe I missunderstood he's reply, but then again, I quoted the original reply. Does he mean what I said?


----------



## Mega Man

post a screenshot of your system with both AIsuite and HWinfo up

preferably at idle as it will make it easiest

ill show you with ms paint on your system


----------



## Alanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> post a screenshot of your system with both AIsuite and HWinfo up
> 
> preferably at idle as it will make it easiest
> 
> ill show you with ms paint on your system


No need to make it so complicated. Just brief me


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alanthor*
> 
> I doubt it's a scripted response, as he answered on all my questions.. And how come you are certain that he is incorrect, why cant you be incorrect?
> 
> Im sorry if I sound harsh, I dont mean to be cocky or anything.. I just wanna know, how u know that he is incorect? Maybe I missunderstood he's reply, but then again, I quoted the original reply. Does he mean what I said?


It's a known fact amd has not used a physical sensor since the athlon 64 X2 days. He is right AMD uses some kind of algorithm that gets more accurate as the load increases.


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> It's a known fact amd has not used a physical sensor since the athlon 64 X2 days. He is right AMD uses some kind of algorithm that gets more accurate as the load increases.


Link for anyone whoes interested.

http://help.argusmonitor.com/index.html?TemperaturemeasurementforAMDCPUs.html

and

http://www.overclock.net/t/1128821/amd-temp-information-and-guide

Should help answer the question.

Mike The Owl


----------



## Alanthor

Ok, after a few more emails with ASUS Customer care.

Since 2000, all CPU's have onboard sensors on the die. And he also said that 55C over a prolonged time could cause damage on the MAINBOARD. Probably abit overrated, but I have never thought about it in that way!, u know, that the actual component is somewhere, and in this manner, the mainboard.

But one thing made me start to think about his qualifications... He said that the CPU Thermal threshold is 90C. How the hell can he provide me that value, when AMD themself says 62C... OR, maybe he just means what the CPU Thermal threshold on the actual motherboard before different kinds of thermal throttling.

"CPU" in thermal radar is reading from the CPU onboard sensor on the die.

And btw, all links to different sources that ISNT the component manufacturer, matters nothing at all to me. As im in contact with the component manufacturer right now. I have even emailed AMD about this, to get a 2nd confirmation.


----------



## Mike The Owl

As far as I know the thermal limit is 72c, they changed it in AMD Overdrive ( see the thermal margin settings)
Mike the Owl


----------



## Jaimelmiel

Hello, New to this. need help. I am having trouble with the verification link. How do I do it? Thank You.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alanthor*
> 
> Ok, after a few more emails with ASUS Customer care.
> 
> Since 2000, all CPU's have onboard sensors on the die. And he also said that 55C over a prolonged time could cause damage on the MAINBOARD. Probably abit overrated, but I have never thought about it in that way!, u know, that the actual component is somewhere, and in this manner, the mainboard.
> 
> But one thing made me start to think about his qualifications... He said that the CPU Thermal threshold is 90C. How the hell can he provide me that value, when AMD themself says 62C... OR, maybe he just means what the CPU Thermal threshold on the actual motherboard before different kinds of thermal throttling.
> 
> "CPU" in thermal radar is reading from the CPU onboard sensor on the die.
> 
> And btw, all links to different sources that ISNT the component manufacturer, matters nothing at all to me. As im in contact with the component manufacturer right now. I have even emailed AMD about this, to get a 2nd confirmation.


not another one.

i am sure when my cpu is idling 20c below my ambient that is normal too? as my watercooling IS that efficient

i would also like to add asus is NOT amd. how do they know what amd does or does not do ? as you are stating that part about the manufacture
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaimelmiel*
> 
> Hello, New to this. need help. I am having trouble with the verification link. How do I do it? Thank You.


open CPUz

click validate

under cpu name put your OCN name make sure "publish online " is ticked, click submit, post the link here


----------



## Noviets

What Active cooling do you guys have on your VRM's?
I'm using an old generic AMD 80mm fan, just have it sitting in there, and tbh, it looks pretty terrible, which to me is worse than the sound it makes (747 anyone?)

I guess it wouldn't look too bad if I had a completey black fan with no stickers or anything. But I'd rather just get a set of better performing fans, that are much quieter.

Have you guys had much experience with 80mm fans?


----------



## Mega Man

in the fact that i used a 80 or 90mm fan yes, but for me i waterblock asap

still annoyed no one made one for the saberkitty


----------



## mus1mus

I'm using a couple of 80 mms bolted side by side to an angular aluminum that is attached to the rear fan. Covers the whole VRM and NB. Yes, they are loud. But not at 70% Duty Cycle, they're almost inaudible to the noise the rig makes.

IMO, you need it to push air. Thus noisy.

As a bonus, those brown heatsinks are not visible considering most of my components were either black or red..


----------



## Alanthor

Lol... Got the reply from AMD today.. AMD CPU does NOT have any onboard sensor...







The temperature reading I have in my system is the socket temp


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> What Active cooling do you guys have on your VRM's?
> I'm using an old generic AMD 80mm fan, just have it sitting in there, and tbh, it looks pretty terrible, which to me is worse than the sound it makes (747 anyone?)
> 
> I guess it wouldn't look too bad if I had a completey black fan with no stickers or anything. But I'd rather just get a set of better performing fans, that are much quieter.
> 
> Have you guys had much experience with 80mm fans?


One of these I removed the Blue leds.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209044


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> One of these I removed the Blue leds.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209044


The round ones are good for spot cooling but the bigger 100 doesnt concentrate the air enough ( although it does shift a lot of it) I use the original fan that came with my FX8350 to blow onto the VRMs





This was on my old board with 4+1 VRM's , now moved to a Saberkitty - see

http://www.overclock.net/t/1500287/cooling-vrms-on-a-ga-78lmt-usb3-rev-5-0 for my tips on coolin VRM's on 4+1 boards


----------



## Jaimelmiel

Hello to all. Just sent my validation. I just installed my Sabertooth and Wow! What a difference from my M5A99FX Pro R 2.0. I am running an Fx 9590 with a Thermaltake Frio Extreme Cooler. My gaming temps have gone from 49-52 degrees celcius to 38 on the socket, 37-39 Degrees celcius to 30-32 on the core. It Beats the pants off my Asus M5A99FX Pro R 2.0. I could go on. I now feel comfortable trying to overclock
this Beast of a chip now. I am impressed.

P.S. My prime 95 blend test temps were 65-68 socket, 46 core.
Now they are 50-53 socket, 36-39 core.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alanthor*
> 
> Lol... Got the reply from AMD today.. AMD CPU does NOT have any onboard sensor...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The temperature reading I have in my system is the socket temp


gee, never would of guessed, i thought the manufacture said otherwise though








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaimelmiel*
> 
> Hello to all. Just sent my validation. I just installed my Sabertooth and Wow! What a difference from my M5A99FX Pro R 2.0. I am running an Fx 9590 with a Thermaltake Frio Extreme Cooler. My gaming temps have gone from 49-52 degrees celcius to 38 on the socket, 37-39 Degrees celcius to 30-32 on the core. It Beats the pants off my Asus M5A99FX Pro R 2.0. I could go on. I now feel comfortable trying to overclock
> this Beast of a chip now. I am impressed.
> 
> P.S. My prime 95 blend test temps were 65-68 socket, 46 core.
> Now they are 50-53 socket, 36-39 core.


congrats let me know if you need any help


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*


There are more fans in that one rig than all the PCs in my possession...


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> There are more fans in that one rig than all the PCs in my possession...


There were only 15 fans in the case ...I like fans!

Mike the Owl


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are more fans in that one rig than all the PCs in my possession...
Click to expand...

you would cringe to see mine, 5x480 rads

i just bought 100 AP30s ( gentle typhoons )


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you would cringe to see mine, 5x480 rads
> 
> i just bought 100 AP30s ( gentle typhoons )


Can I has 6? lol. I was just being sarcastic, until I took the time to count every fan in every PC in my house, I realized that I have about 4 more than that one rig.

You're insane bro. I'm contemplating getting out of watercooling. I've had two 655s start going out within 6 months of each other. The first was over 5 years old and ready, the second borderline new (maybe 1 year worth of work) and is already starting to click. VERY lightly, but never-the-less, its there, and will be done within 6 months I can foresee it. Which sucks, because its a heavily modded 655 with bitspower top and dress kit.









I'm ready to ditch the bench station case and everything...


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you would cringe to see mine, 5x480 rads
> 
> i just bought 100 AP30s ( gentle typhoons )


Pics or it never exists.









Kidding aside, you should make a build log for that! And link it to us...

Where are you on the build?


----------



## Mega Man

hiding till summer,


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> hiding till summer,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


*
Jealousy level OVER 9000!*


----------



## Mega Man

the th10a is in use atm but looks like craps ! my amd is in pieces waiting


----------



## mus1mus

Wow!

Its my first time to see some do a custom sleeve/wiring on sata power! Pull it off nice or meh!









But I'm yet to see your hundred GTs! (Grinning)

On a note, you'd be pulling off a pretty hell of a black and white rig. That's for sure!

Are swiftechs good for cooling the 290xs?


----------



## Mega Man

i installed them once and my sli fittings leaked. been summer since have not had time from work to install, and the little time i have found, i am just exhausted


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i installed them once and my sli fittings leaked. been summer since have not had time from work to install, and the little time i have found, i am just exhausted


Oh man, I'm with you with time (or lack of it) have to work on weekends since that's the only time you can maintain office computers!


----------



## wolfwalker

So what did they cover with that added heatsink on the GEN3 that isn't on the GEN2?
Or is it just a radiator for the heatpipe off the big chip it's hooked to?

I have plenty of airflow but was wondering if anything on the plain R2 would benefit from
adding small heatsinks. I'm tempted to just buy a G3 but they are fairly rare and a lot of expense
for very little gain. Humorously, it's the only "upgrade" path from the R2 still.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> So what did they cover with that added heatsink on the GEN3 that isn't on the GEN2?
> Or is it just a radiator for the heatpipe off the big chip it's hooked to?
> 
> I have plenty of airflow but was wondering if anything on the plain R2 would benefit from
> adding small heatsinks. I'm tempted to just buy a G3 but they are fairly rare and a lot of expense
> for very little gain. Humorously, it's the only "upgrade" path from the R2 still.


There's no thermal armor for and boards.

Also, someone told me R2.0 Gen 3 sucks. There's a thread here about the issues G3 face. Most of them have been recalled as the guy who told me said.


----------



## philhalo66

Why don't amd boards get thermal armor?


----------



## wolfwalker

Not thermal armor on the GEN3, it has a few added heatsinks, go check the pics.
I'm curious what they are cooling.


----------



## wolfwalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Why don't amd boards get thermal armor?


What little I've read is it's mostly for looks and marketing.
Price is a thing with AMD stuff, even the higher end ones.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Why don't amd boards get thermal armor?


They will toast more I guess.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> Not thermal armor on the GEN3, it has a few added heatsinks, go check the pics.
> I'm curious what they are cooling.






As far as I know or my hunch of things, the Black Heatsink is for the PLX Chip that Asus added as a feature of the Gen 3.0. That PLX chip allows for dual PCie X16 slot to accept and run PCIe 3.0 GPUs at PCIe 3.0 X16 Speeds. Not PCIe 2.0 X 16 on the normal KITTY. That is since AMD doesn't support PCIe 3.0 on their Chipsets or CPUs.

The other one on top of the NB under the Memory slots should be for the USB 3.0 chip or added Power Chips / VRM for the Memory.

SB just got a facial.


----------



## nX3NTY

I RMA my Sabertooth 990FX and what I get back is the R2.0







It really surprises me. I thought it looked weird at first since it's more brown than usual, then I read the big R2.0 on the board


----------



## SwishaMane

Im proud to still be rocking the same 1.01 I bought a few months after this board launched. Even after my huge problem, failed RMA, and getting the same "dead" board back. One day it just started working again, and been good since. lol


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nX3NTY*
> 
> I RMA my Sabertooth 990FX and what I get back is the R2.0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It really surprises me. I thought it looked weird at first since it's more brown than usual, then I read the big R2.0 on the board


You will be happy with it for sure. They are excellent boards


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> So what did they cover with that added heatsink on the GEN3 that isn't on the GEN2?
> Or is it just a radiator for the heatpipe off the big chip it's hooked to?
> 
> I have plenty of airflow but was wondering if anything on the plain R2 would benefit from
> adding small heatsinks. I'm tempted to just buy a G3 but they are fairly rare and a lot of expense
> for very little gain. Humorously, it's the only "upgrade" path from the R2 still.


PLX chips
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nX3NTY*
> 
> I RMA my Sabertooth 990FX and what I get back is the R2.0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It really surprises me. I thought it looked weird at first since it's more brown than usual, then I read the big R2.0 on the board


welcome !


----------



## wolfwalker

I wonder what Asus will do with warranty claims on these boards in 2017?
There don't seem to be any more AM3+ boards in the pipe and old
high end motherboards seem to get scarce in pretty short time.

My onboard audio died yesterday. Made it 11 months before something crapped out lol.
I should buy a crosshair, so then I'll have gone through all the top three 990fx boards.
My last 890 chipset or whatever it was Asus board, the onboard LAN died in the first six months,
don't think I'll bother RMA'ing this one either unless something else goes out.


----------



## mus1mus

HMMM, I wonder more if you can keep your system working like a year old til then..


----------



## cab2

What's the deal with CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT? Both headers should be putting out the same signal, so two identical fans should both run at the same RPM. But they don''t, there's 100-150 RPM difference.


----------



## mus1mus

All fans vary in speed. Manufacturers quote this with +-10% whatever.

Also note, 100 rpm is a matter of voltage difference between the regulators. And will not make significant gain nor too much noise differences.

No board produces the same output on all fan headers and no fan spins equally.


----------



## wolfwalker

What ever happened with the AMD AHCI drivers VS Windows AHCI drivers? Some casual benching of my 840 EVO shows it a bit slower than most of what I see online.
HD Tuner 2.55 shows 314 average fwiw. No raid or anything going on. I think I installed the AMD drivers but I'm not sure at this point.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Ok so my sabertooth r2.0 is in the mail but I have a question about the sata headers I see six are designated for raid configuration. My question is I have 3 sata devices to connect 840 evo, WD blue 1tb, and DVD writer..if I connect the DVD writer to one of the other ports it will still function normally yeah?


----------



## Mike The Owl

Yeah...........


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> Yeah...........


so they are just designated for that so you know which to use when raid array is enabled?


----------



## Mike The Owl

You need two identical hard drives for RAID 0 or 1, try http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-1760447/sabertooth-990fx-raid.html for example , the DVD can be separate ( use the white SATA ports for the DVD player and the brown ones for the RAID, the brown ones support RAID 0,1,5,10, JBOD.)

Mike the Owl


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> You need two identical hard drives for RAID 0 or 1, try http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-1760447/sabertooth-990fx-raid.html for example , the DVD can be separate ( use the white SATA ports for the DVD player and the brown ones for the RAID, the brown ones support RAID 0,1,5,10, JBOD.)
> 
> Mike the Owl


I understand what raid is and how it works I won't be using it yet as I currently only have two vastly different drives...I just didn't know if those ports would function normally without a raid array active or present....I am one of the few people who use my DVD RW drive quite a lot...


----------



## Mega Man

without issue i have and will never use raid ( on mobo one day i may pony up for a controller )


----------



## wolfwalker

There are six, I think, native 990FX SATA ports and two add-on SATA ports, they all support raid to one degree or another.
I ran a PCIE RAID card with a couple drives for awhile (which is for sale) but never used the onboard stuff. I'm not a fan of
non-dedicated RAID controllers. But they will work. If I had to guess without looking at the manual, I'd use the add-on pair of ports for RAID and leave the
others for regular drives.


----------



## wolfwalker

SpeedFan works perfectly with the R2.0 board btw. If anyone needs config help yell.
The Asus software finally annoyed me enough to configure it, being able to jack the side panel
fans that blow on my GPU's dependant on the GPU temperature and independent of the other
case fans is beautiful. I sure with the guy from SpeedFan and the guy from Hwinfo64 would get
together and have a love child.

Edit: No Voltage info present, no idea why.


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> SpeedFan works perfectly with the R2.0 board btw. If anyone needs config help yell.
> The Asus software finally annoyed me enough to configure it, being able to jack the side panel
> fans that blow on my GPU's dependant on the GPU temperature and independent of the other
> case fans is beautiful. I sure with the guy from SpeedFan and the guy from Hwinfo64 would get
> together and have a love child.


I totally agree with the comment on the ASUS software , I couldn't get it to work at all so un-installed it straight away, I haven't used SpeedFan for some time so will give it a try again.

Mike the Owl


----------



## wolfwalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> I totally agree with the comment on the ASUS software , I couldn't get it to work at all so un-installed it straight away, I haven't used SpeedFan for some time so will give it a try again.
> 
> Mike the Owl


I actually had the junk working, the AIsuite or whatever it is, but it's just.. ****ty.
The learning curve and setup is rough on SpeedFan but it works really well.
I was using this damn software on a dual slot 1 440BX board a lot longer ago than
I want to think about lol.


----------



## mus1mus

I might as well try Speedfan. I have 3 high speed PWM fans on my rad that I run at 5 Volts to keep them Quiet. But a little more speed wont hurt my noise output while I have my GPU on stock air cooler.

I need moar air in short...


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> SpeedFan works perfectly with the R2.0 board btw. If anyone needs config help yell.
> The Asus software finally annoyed me enough to configure it, being able to jack the side panel
> fans that blow on my GPU's dependant on the GPU temperature and independent of the other
> case fans is beautiful. I sure with the guy from SpeedFan and the guy from Hwinfo64 would get
> together and have a love child.
> 
> Edit: No Voltage info present, no idea why.


Wolfwalker, can you give a basic guide to using SpeedFan to control the fan speeds, at the moment I set the fan speeds in the bios as to what I'm doing i.e. cool and quite or everything on full at Prime(% test at 5.0 over clock.

Mike the Owl


----------



## wolfwalker

Yep, will take awhile to write something up, screencaps might be easier.
I'll try and get it done today. I'm still fiddling with response curves but I'm pretty happy with it overall so far.
Compared to the bios level stuff, which speedfan calls SmartGuardian, I dropped idle/low load speeds by 300-500 RPM
with no temp issues so that shut things up pretty well, and I was able to tie my left side fans to the GPU temp so they ram up
faster than the rest and cool the vid cards, that was the real goal and something AISuite cannot do. The one thing I haven't figured out
how to make work satisfactorily, and I suspect it's user error, is tieing a fan(s) to multiple sensors with there own response graphs.
It works but there's some weirdness going on where they run faster than I'd have thought they should. That's a pretty advanced feature though,
I'm pretty ok without it. The other best part is it's not AISuite with it's goofy bloatedness.

I'll be back.


----------



## Mike The Owl

great as I need it.........





As you can see I've more fans than The Beatles!

Mike the Owl


----------



## Mega Man

Or you could just buy a aquaero and be done with it if your pc locks speed fan will not work.

where as your aquaero will continue on


----------



## Mike The Owl

I,ve got one of these...the poor mans version....



Mike the Owl


----------



## wolfwalker

OK, bare in mind my install is all configured and re-named, I'll include a legend of sorts below to reference.
Couple notes.

I'm notoriously long winded and have never written instructions for such before, so gimmie a break.









My setup is a Sabertooth R2, 8350, crossfire HIS 280X's
My case fans, all 8, are Noctua PWM NF-S12A with the exception of a 200mm BitFenix up top.
CPU Cooler is a Noctua D15 with the two stock 140mm PWM fans.
My case is the underappreciated Antec 1100 which I've found to be surprisingly quiet and cool
running despite being not very big by my standards. And it was cheap.
Not pictured are the two 120's in the left window and the single 120 in the right panel blowing
on the back of the board.



I get no voltage readings at all other than for the GPU.
Nor do I get temp readings from the dozen or so temp sensors the Sabertooth has onboard.
My theory is the monitoring chip is pretty well customized and SpeedFan just isn't coded to read em.

I use HWinfo64 and it reads everything, I keep graphs open on my second monitor as you'll see below.
I ran HWinfo and SpeedFan at the same time with no problems, HWinfo data matches SpeedFan perfectly
other than some update speed differences on the core temp, and it has a lot better graphs for readouts.

Once you enable fan control, manual or automatic, with SpeedFan, it'll take a reboot or possibly going to sleep and waking
to hand fan control back to the bios/board. I don't have AISuite installed but it's possible one could open it and regain control
that way once SpeedFan is closed or control is disabled which I'll cover below.

Do not randomly change stuff in SpeedFan, there aren't any safeguards, it will let you turn fans OFF, don't load the system
till you're pretty sure it's working at least semi-right.

Knowing what fans are plugged into what header on the board is important in getting this thing working right, it's easier if you have access
to them by hand while configuring. One of the fastest ways to ID a RPM readout is just reach over and stop the fan and see what drops to 0.

All that said, here is my setup and hopefully an explanation of what is what on this board with SpeedFan.
You should be able to completely configure the thing on a Sabertooth R2.0 with this data if I didn't make it too confusing.

Mine looks like this now...



And I monitor goings on with HWinfo64 like this...



First up Fan/Header ID..

Fan ID:
CPU Fan header is on IT8721F "Fan1" Address $290 (CPU in my SF)
CPU Opt header is on IT8721F "Fan2" Address $290 (Rear Exhaust in my SF)
CHA Fan1 header is on IT8721F "Fan3" Address $290 (Outer 120's Intake in my SF)
CHA Fan2 header is on SB 7xx/8xx PM2 Address $CCB (Inner 120's Intake in my SF)
CHA Fan3 header is on SB 7xx/8xx PM2 Address $CCB (200MM+Right Intake in my SF)
CHA Fan4 header is on SB 7xx/8xx PM2 Address $CCB (Left Intake in my SF)
GPU Fans are self explanatory.

See screencap below of this page, I would start with renaming your fan headers to something that makes sense for your setup.
Note that Fan4 and 5 in SF do not seem to read anything anywhere, my box is fully loaded so there isn't one not being used.



Next up is the Temperature tab. This one is pretty easy since SF only finds four temps, and one of them is invalid (Temp3).
I did not have to adjust anything on mine for these to be accurate, but there is the ability to adjust offset on each of these if need be.
Cross reference these temps with something else just to be safe unless you know what they run at idle by heart.
Screencap below should be self explanatory, rename them as you wish so you can ID them later, and un-check any that are invalid or unwanted.



Temperature tab part 2 that I forgot to get a screencap of, click on one of the temp names and you'll see at the bottom a list of values.
Desired temp, Warning temp, show in tray checkbox.
There are two modes of fan speed control with SF, the basic out of the box one is not unlike
manual mode in teh bios, you set for instance the CPU Core temp Desired Value at say, 35C,
SF will ramp up speeds once it hits 35C on a preset scale and when it hits the Warning Value will
go to 100%. It's good to test with these preset fan control curves first, they do work and are safe as long
as your desired temp is "warm" and your Warning temp is pre-meltdown. I used 35 core and socket temp, the socket
see's that way before the core with the D15 cooler on it. These settings tie into other fan control settings, so check em
and set em.

Temperature tab part 3, tieing a given temp to a given fan.
Note this only applies with the basic preset fan control curves, we'll get into the custom ones later.
And don't skip ahead since we haven't turned on fan control at all yet.
Click the + next to a temp value, you'll see a list of the fans you re-named earlier.
If you wanted the CPU+Exh in my case to follow the core temp, you'd check mark the box for that fan
under CPU Core. It is smart enough to let you tie multiple sensors to multiple headers as well.
See screencap..



The Speeds Tab. You'll notice SF had two sets of three "Pwm1, 2, 3" fan controls on the main page.
Screencap below shows which one is which. Uncheck the three for the SB 7xx/8xx PM2, they don't do anything.
The three on the IT8721F do, and you should rename them to something that makes sense for you.
Look at mine and you'll see which is which, CPU fan and CPU Opt are PWM1, CHA4 is PWM2, ALL the other
chassis fan headers are on PWM3. Note you may or may not have GPU fan control, I left mine alone since the
card bios seems to handle them fine and it's one less thing to configure. If you choose to play with they work just like
any other control does, but I am not sure if it takes a reboot to hand control back over to the card bios.
See screencap for detail.

Speeds Tap part 2: When you highlight a given can control address, at the bottom pops up an
option for minimum value and max value. These are self explanatory, I tested mine and found the minimum
speed my fans would function at. Interestingly, the two 140mm's on the CPU fan header and the single 120mm
on the CPU Opt header will function down to 10% or less, barely spinning. ALL the others STOPPED below 30%,
so I set the minimum for the case fans at 35% since I never want them totally off, and the CPU fan minimum at 25%.
I may revise this later, especially in the winter when it's chilly anyway. My 120's are identical so I'm curious why
one goes so low and the others not before they stop, my only guess is because I have at least two fans on each header other
than that singel on CPU Opt. It's not a big deal but it pays to take notice of this sort of behavior.
The other thing you'll see is a checkbox for "Automatically Variated", it is a per line item setting and it tells SF to vary this fan
according to the other setup parameters when checked. Leave it off for now, but remember it's there. Note there is also a global
"Automatic Fan Speed" check box on the main page.



Options tab, this stuff is pretty self explanitory. Note that I changed the Delta Value For Fan Speeds from
10 to 5, this is simply the % steps fan speeds are changed in. I found 10 to be a bit abrupt, all my fans are like 1500rpm max and 400ish on
the low end, set this to taste. You can also do C or F, some tray icon color junk, you'll figure it out.



The Advanced tab: This is probly what trips most people up but it's not that complicated.
The Chip dropdown, select the IT8721F since as we saw above this is the actual fan controlling chip.
Each of the line items is editable, but don't as you can muck things up unless you have a good reason.
It's this stuff which makes SF so configurable, you can change temp sensor type, fan divisors and multipliers
if you're getting crazy fan speed readings from non-standards-following fans, reverse PWM logic which does
just what it says, change the temp offset, and most importantly for us, tell the chip who is controlling the fan, the
bios(CoolNQuiet=SmartGuardian), or us/SpeedFan(Software Controlled). You can change this value for each of the three
PWM controllers we figure out what were earlier individually. I'd pick a non-critical one, like not the CPU fan, to play with first.
Click on it, hit the dropdown at the bottom and pick Software Controlled. No I don't know what ON/OFF is, but I suspect it turns
that PWM line off below the target temp and on 100% above it. The other setting of note is the check box on the lower right which is
per line item, "remember it". If you check this the control method will be retained after restarting SF, I'd leave it unchecked for now
just in case you need to start over. As I mentioned earlier, once Software Control is set, and it sets immediately, I haven't seen that going
back to SmartGuardian/bios control does anything but kick the fans to 100% which I assume is a safeguard.
On the options page we were on previously there is a checkbox for set fans to 100% on exit as well that is a safety measure,
I would assume some systems probably just turn the fans OFF when you close SF. That would be bad.
See screencaps...





Once you have allll that set up, click OK out of settings, and on the main screen you should be able to
manually run the fans up and down with the three percentage boxes. Do so one at a time checking the low
and high limit and that the control corresponds to the fan you renamed em to. If not, fix it.
Once you are satisfied with this, you have Software Control selected for the fan(s) you want automatically
controlled from the Advanced tab, you have the desired temp for each sensor set, you have the min and max fan speed
set, click on the Automatic Fan Speed checkbox at the upper right and see what happens. You should NOT be able to manually
control the fans with this checkbox checked, and assuming your system is below the target temps your fans should drop to the
minimum speed you have set. If so, fire up a heat generating program and watch them carefully, the percentage readout
will change real time to reflect what SF is requesting your fans to do. If it works, have a beer. If not, double check everything
again.

Next step will be setting up custom control fan curves, like AISuite had but less goofy.

Now I need a beer.


----------



## wolfwalker

I wish I could simulate a lock and see what SF does, but I'm pretty sure it's not going to tun off the fans, just maintain them wherever they are.
That is one advantage of bios/chip level fan control from the IT8721F, it's independent of the OS and is the reason I ended up with this board.
I originally bought an Asrock Extreme9 and was very happy with it in all respects EXCEPT they absolutely botched the fan control setup.
It was just dumb and not fixable by anything but an external controller, none of which quite do it for me so far. I was running Linux at the time
daily as well so that made it even worse, the Sabertooth hardware level control is at least competently functional. Stuff like SpeedFan is just for
fun at this point.


----------



## Mike The Owl

Thanks Wolfwalker, I will start tomorrow to set it up.

Mike the Owl


----------



## wolfwalker

Part 2. This is probly the easy part, especially if you've used AISuite or MSI Afterburner fan control or such for GPUs.

Open settings, Fan Control tab. Check the Advanced Fan Control box.

Click Add, give the control program a name, CPU or Case or whatever fan/temp is going to be involved.

I'll call mine test.
Test will appear in the white box, click on it.
Check the box for Controlled Speed, then from the dropdown to the right of it pick what fan set
you want controlled. You'll see they are named whatever you previously named them, mine are
CPU+Exh, Case and Left Intake. We'll pick CPU.
Lower left, click Add, a box will pop up showing your previously renamed temperature options,
CPU Socket, Case, CPU Core, GPU 1/2, and a bunch of hard drives in my case.
We'll select CPU Core and click OK.
The white box above the Add button now lists that source, click on it, a fan speed/temp graph
will appear. You can adjust the set points at will, you can also at the lower left and right
adjust the lower and upper range of the graph. If the temp in question is never below 30, that's a good
lower limit, if it's never over 70, that's a good upper, etc, etc. Fiddle with it and you'll get the feel.
The Hysteresis figure is how many degrees the temp must drop for the fan speed to drop down a level,
this prevents fast constant changes in fan speed on temperatures, like CPU core temp, that vary quickly up
and down.
The only real advice I have here is if you have a device, like the cpu core, that spends most of it's time between
say 30 and 40C when under moderate normal load, try to have that portion of the fan speed curve relatively flat
or the fan RPM will be all over the place. I'm still fine tuning and it's pretty mild here the last few days so I'm actually
having a hard time getting this thing hot with Prime95 or Intel Burn Test. It's definitely trial and error though.
The other interesting thing here, is you can click Add a second time and add a second, or third, forth, etc, etc, temp
sensor to be referenced and figure into the speed of the selected fan. The Method box at the upper right has to do
with this, and frankly I'm not positive how it's supposed to act yet. What I believe is Max Of Speeds is it chooses the
higher of the two speeds from the two chosen temp/graphs, if your temp source #2 goes up and requests 50% fan but temp
source #1 has not, it goes with #2. The other setting, Sum Of Speeds, seems to add the two together which I'm not sure what the
utility of is yet so I assume i'm missing something. While trying to tie the case fans to both the CPU socket reading and the GPU
temp, it seemed to run the fans higher than I wanted and not want to lower them. I'll continue to play with it.
Screencap below of my current CPU graph.



And this is my box just hanging out, web browsing and such with the current SpeedFan setup.
With the bios level control set to normal I'd have 750rpm CPU fans and 850ish everything else.
The turbo and silent options worked but they were still less than optimal from both a sound and cooling standpoint.


----------



## slick2500

Got my Sabertooth today put everything together did a fresh install of Windows, went into bios changed vcore to 1.475 volts and this was my results. It was nowhere near stable the system crashed the second I started Prime95.


http://valid.x86.fr/0mfvmg


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slick2500*
> 
> Got my Sabertooth today put everything together did a fresh install of Windows, went into bios changed vcore to 1.475 volts and this was my results. It was nowhere near stable the system crashed the second I started Prime95.
> 
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/0mfvmg


Cooling?

Fill up that rigbuilder and put it in your sig.

People could easily help you out that way..


----------



## Mega Man

see my sig for rigbuilder


----------



## slick2500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Cooling?
> 
> Fill up that rigbuilder and put it in your sig.
> 
> People could easily help you out that way..


At the moment I'm just using a Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme. Still fiddling with settings in the bios.


----------



## mus1mus

You see, there's a reason why I asked for the cooler you are using..

You seem to need moar Vcore. Be sure to keep your temps in check. I highly doubt you can get away with a stable 5.0 GHz off that cooler so yeah..

Back it off if you can't cool the monster inside your chip.. OR,

Pick a better cooler. You would be lucky to get that at 4.8 IMO..


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You see, there's a reason why I asked for the cooler you are using..
> 
> You seem to need moar Vcore. Be sure to keep your temps in check. I highly doubt you can get away with a stable 5.0 GHz off that cooler so yeah..
> 
> Back it off if you can't cool the monster inside your chip.. OR,
> 
> Pick a better cooler. You would be lucky to get that at 4.8 IMO..


My history of overclocking via Cine each



As you can see I,ve gone thru most overclock speeds , I,m very careful about my temps and quite anal about my cooling but I have decided to give the sealed coolers a miss and pay for a good custom watercooling system.



cheers Mike the Owl


----------



## slick2500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You see, there's a reason why I asked for the cooler you are using..
> 
> You seem to need moar Vcore. Be sure to keep your temps in check. I highly doubt you can get away with a stable 5.0 GHz off that cooler so yeah..
> 
> Back it off if you can't cool the monster inside your chip.. OR,
> 
> Pick a better cooler. You would be lucky to get that at 4.8 IMO..


I'm waiting for my new case to come in, then I will be switching to a custom water loop. I just tried 5ghz for ****s and giggles didn't actually expect it to boot up.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slick2500*
> 
> I'm waiting for my new case to come in, then I will be switching to a custom water loop. I just tried 5ghz for ****s and giggles didn't actually expect it to boot up.


Your not making 4.8 / 5.0 GHZ with that cooler. I have a FX9590 and I have a hard time sustaining 5.0GHZ under water with the power requirements/ Temperatures of the CPU. The CPU I have does 1.5V+ on full usage and gets to about I would say 225W on the low end of heat output. Good luck


----------



## slick2500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Your not making 4.8 / 5.0 GHZ with that cooler. I have a FX9590 and I have a hard time sustaining 5.0GHZ under water with the power requirements/ Temperatures of the CPU. The CPU I have does 1.5V+ on full usage and gets to about I would say 225W on the low end of heat output. Good luck


Again, wasn't actually trying for 5ghz just did it for giggles. I'm sure with a better cooler and some time I could get it stable up around that range.

Right now I'm just trying to figure out what the timings are for my ram so I can put them in because I can not seem to find the setting to enable XMP profiles, I'm still getting used to the layout of the bios so I'm sure its there somewhere.


----------



## umeng2002

I have an odd issue on R1 board. I have my old 955 BE in there, and I'm overclocking it. But the BIOS won't keep the HT Link speed at what I set. Anything over 2000 MHz and it just stays at 2000 MHz even when the BIOS settings clearly show something higher is selected. I can underclock it though. (My NB speed is set high too, so can get the option to increase the HT Link speed)

Anyone have this issue on old Deneb chips?

Did Asus nerf features for older CPUs? Can I roll back to an older BIOS?


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> I have an odd issue on R1 board. I have my old 955 BE in there, and I'm overclocking it. But the BIOS won't keep the HT Link speed at what I set. Anything over 2000 MHz and it just stays at 2000 MHz even when the BIOS settings clearly show something higher is selected. I can underclock it though. (My NB speed is set high too, so can get the option to increase the HT Link speed)
> 
> Anyone have this issue on old Deneb chips?
> 
> Did Asus nerf features for older CPUs? Can I roll back to an older BIOS?


No, the BIOS is cumulative, Your 955 may be rev.C2 , I'd leave it alone, makes no real difference anyway.

My 965BE runs very well in the R2.0 with just multiplier set for 4.0 GHz and 1.45V


----------



## umeng2002

I know, but it seems like a bug or something ASUS put in later. I select something higher than 2000, save and restart. When I get back into the BIOS, the higher setting is shown in the options, but the BIOS (and Windows) shows it running at 2000.

Does boosting it a little increase stability? I can't test it out.


----------



## cab2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> I know, but it seems like a bug or something ASUS put in later. I select something higher than 2000, save and restart. When I get back into the BIOS, the higher setting is shown in the options, but the BIOS (and Windows) shows it running at 2000.
> 
> Does boosting it a little increase stability? I can't test it out.


Depends on mem timings too. You can test CPU on the fly using k10stat in Windows, or k10ctl in Linux.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alanthor*
> 
> Ok, after a few more emails with ASUS Customer care.
> 
> Since 2000, all CPU's have onboard sensors on the die. And he also said that 55C over a prolonged time could cause damage on the MAINBOARD. Probably abit overrated, but I have never thought about it in that way!, u know, that the actual component is somewhere, and in this manner, the mainboard.
> 
> But one thing made me start to think about his qualifications... He said that the CPU Thermal threshold is 90C. How the hell can he provide me that value, when AMD themself says 62C... OR, maybe he just means what the CPU Thermal threshold on the actual motherboard before different kinds of thermal throttling.
> 
> "CPU" in thermal radar is reading from the CPU onboard sensor on the die.
> 
> And btw, all links to different sources that ISNT the component manufacturer, matters nothing at all to me. As im in contact with the component manufacturer right now. I have even emailed AMD about this, to get a 2nd confirmation.


I am sure this has already been addressed however I am 80 posts behind and don't feel like reading so I am going to put this to the most down the line information

A: ASUS tech is not able to answer AMD proc questions (unless heavily versed however there still leads issues of credibility as said tech does not work for AMD)

B: ASUS will only tell you what the allowed limitations are for their warranty, The tech that you are referring to was most likely giving you information as it is "SAFE" to be in that margin (even though ASUS provides overclocking ultilities and options, it does not mean that it is supported or covered under warranty)

C: the absolute threashhold is 90c before physical silicon degradation AKA the point to where silicon WILL start to experience changed due to heat instead of the chip frying.. that is what the tech was referring to and not to be confused with the chips manufactured recomended top temp...

D: YES it was assumed at first for PD chips that the max temp was 62c this was more based on history of AMD chips and had not been fully addressed until an update to AMD Overdrive from Feb or March of this year.

E1: From personal experience, you want to keep your rig cool.. I have seen stability issues after socket reaches 70c which would be the mainboard sensor temp, reason why it can get a bit hotter is due to the face that it sits inbetween the VRMS and the CPU. The best rule of practice is keep the Socket temp lower than 70c and you will be fine,
E2: with that being said, reduce the heat on your VRMS, adding LLC to the mix where voltage is added to compensate for vDrop will infact create more heat.. only use the LLC that you really need to become stable.. and then see if you can tone it down more.. (drop and LLC level and ad voltage once you see what it needs to be stable) The large shifts in LLC can and will cause instability if not properly utilized

F: The Mainboard on the Sabertooth has an actual sensor, the Thermal sensor on the AMD chip is an algorithm that is used to calculate the temp and only starts becoming reliable after 35c+ anything less will show abnormally low temperatures, this threshold is put in place by AMD to do 2 things, Save money and really who needs to know the temp below 20c any way unless you are doing LN2 which in that case you have other tools to utilize


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> Depends on mem timings too. You can test CPU on the fly using k10stat in Windows, or k10ctl in Linux.


Thanks for the tip on the program. It's been a few years since I've dicked around with a deneb chip. I forgot most things that were different than Thulban.


----------



## bicefalo

(Sorry for my bad English).
Hi everyone, it's a pleasure to be part of the forum. I got my sabertooth mobo like 3 weeks ago, I started using it with the OEM cooler that comes with the processor in the box, on IDLE it was running at 49 °C (temp reported by the mobo on the BIOS) which was a pretty high temp, I bought an XSPC water cooling (XSPC Raystorm 750 EX360) thinking that will solve my problem, I life in a country where the temps are always around 31°C(hot days) -- 25 °C (cold days), I tested it and my temp drop to 39 °C on IDLE but I think is not enough taking in count it has a water cooling system on it. Could you please give me a helping hand on this?. What about your system? are they running at those temps too?. What means tjmax and vcore temp?

The image attached is a screen shot of my computer running a stress test (prime95). Please I need some orientation with this.


----------



## Mega Man

your temps sound normal.

i would only use HWinfo for temps


----------



## slick2500

Hwinfo keeps making my system bsod. =/


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Bin a while since i posted here UM guys will this ''Noctua NH-D15'' cooler fit on the Sabertooth 990fx will it have any issues.. blocking any pcie slots.??


----------



## slick2500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> Bin a while since i posted here UM guys will this ''Noctua NH-D15'' cooler fit on the Sabertooth 990fx will it have any issues.. blocking any pcie slots.??


Looks like no. Doesn't seem to have any issues with fitment. If you scroll down there are pics of that cooler isntalled on a Sabertooth 990FX board http://en.gecid.com/cool/noctua_nh-d15_cpu_cooler_review_and_testing/


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Ome more quest.. u think the Haf Xb case.. will clear the top of the cooler??


----------



## wolfwalker

Fits my Antec 1100, I think the HAF is bigger. The D14 and 15 are both outstanding coolers.


----------



## Mega Man

what the best bios now a days to bench on,

may throw in my saberkitty at some point but i know

@hurricane28

needs it

in the process of redoing cables and watercooling on my amd system.

whole system is getting a facelift with custom built cables ( by me ) sleeved ( MDPC of course ) and i am going to try my had at full acrylic,

as much as i want to use my TH10 it is only a m8 so the best i could do is 5-6 ( unsure which it will be yet ) monsta 360 rads, 4x mcp35x2, and quadfire 7970s.

all blocked ! the finished product will use a ud7 ( boo sorry if asus would release a native 8/8/8/8 board for amd, then i would drop the ud7 so quick.... could you imagine saberkitty 3.0 no PLX no nothing, just saberkitty sexy with quadfire, no need for a riser.... ahhh i can dream cant i


----------



## mus1mus

My runs are using BIOS 2501.. It's no different. I'm just having a hunch he's into a lot. Really, I can't get my system to throttle at all..









Not everyone would need 4 way XFire..








lol..

I'm cool with 2X PCIe 2.0 at X16 on the kitty..









Picturesssssss


----------



## hurricane28

Here is my proof that the thing is trotting..

With the sensor enabled.





With the sensor disabled...

See the trotting going on? That is only when i am enabling the sensor that should be monitored...


----------



## mus1mus

Like I said in the other thread, it's either hit or miss.

I can probably throw in some time to see what can be done with it. (means wiping my OS, a couple or more times to get into the issue deeper)

But I am currently using EC Sensors without issues. Thing is, I didn't install the crap AI Suite nor Thermal Radar. I only need the drivers anyway.

Let's see what can be done to it..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Here is my proof that the thing is trotting..
> 
> With the sensor enabled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the sensor disabled...
> 
> See the trotting going on? That is only when i am enabling the sensor that should be monitored...


he does have a point about aisuite however it is not throttling it is usage as the chip is " pinged " if you will


----------



## slick2500

My water cooler seems to be doing a good job. Now for some prime 95 runs.


----------



## hurricane28

I must say that its not all bad with this board.

Its one heck of an overclocker!

No matter what i throw at it it can handle it easily.

this is my best physics score so far.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I must say that its not all bad with this board.
> 
> Its one heck of an overclocker!
> 
> No matter what i throw at it it can handle it easily.
> 
> this is my best physics score so far.


I have to agree the power delivery must be much more consistent than the other crappy board I had because this chips runs stable at lower voltages with same clocks... also I can't say enough about the digi power settings they are the tops baby


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I have to agree the power delivery must be much more consistent than the other crappy board I had because this chips runs stable at lower voltages with same clocks... also I can't say enough about the digi power settings they are the tops baby


Yep the performance is very well but for obvious reasons i am going to return this board because all the rest is not that great. I get stuttering in Windows even when i disabled the sensor...

It is not only because of the ridiculous EC sensor but for other things as well, i can't run push/pull because of the utterly stupid place of the 8pin CPU connector...

Also i am not that happy with the place of the USB 3.0 because its right above the GPU and that gets pretty hot when gaming or benching...

Can't wait until i get my Giga UD5 back. even tho its the rev 3.0, the rev 1.1 was working like a charm for me for over 1,5 years and the rev 3.0 is even better


----------



## LostParticle

Hello, I apologize in advance if I am off topic but as an Asus Sabertooth owner I would like to ask you to help me in this problem of mine :

My PC won't sleep when (functioning) on a specific OC profile

Perhaps I have post it in the wrong forum..

Thank you very much!


----------



## slick2500

I think these temps might be a little high for my liking.


----------



## wolfwalker

Warm if 25C is your ambient, but it's not crazy bad imo.


----------



## slick2500

I might drop the vcore a little and see if its still stable, I was coming down from 5.0 Ghz, couldn't get it stable at 1.5v so I stopped there.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I have to agree the power delivery must be much more consistent than the other crappy board I had because this chips runs stable at lower voltages with same clocks... also I can't say enough about the digi power settings they are the tops baby
> 
> 
> 
> Yep the performance is very well but for obvious reasons i am going to return this board because all the rest is not that great. I get stuttering in Windows even when i disabled the sensor...
> 
> It is not only because of the ridiculous EC sensor but for other things as well, i can't run push/pull because of the utterly stupid place of the 8pin CPU connector...
> 
> Also i am not that happy with the place of the USB 3.0 because its right above the GPU and that gets pretty hot when gaming or benching...
> 
> Can't wait until i get my Giga UD5 back. even tho its the rev 3.0, the rev 1.1 was working like a charm for me for over 1,5 years and the rev 3.0 is even better
Click to expand...

i love how you blame the mobo for a mouse problem, do you relize across how many platforms and oses this can happen ? drivers mice problems.... you never rule out.

also if your gpu is so hot, that the usb3 cable is anywhere near dangerous... you have epic problems

to me, it sounds like you are making excuses


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i love how you blame the mobo for a mouse problem, do you relize across how many platforms and oses this can happen ? drivers mice problems.... you never rule out.
> 
> also if your gpu is so hot, that the usb3 cable is anywhere near dangerous... you have epic problems
> 
> to me, it sounds like you are making excuses


Like i said many times before, i haven't had ANY problems with my Gigabyte UD3 or UD5... so i am not making up excuses but i say it how i feel and how it is plain and simple.

I do agree with the GPU temps but its just that i am not happy with the place of the USB 3.0 because most MB's Ive seen have it on the edge of the motherboard or on the down side like the UD3, UD5 etc. has.

Like i said before, i do am impressed by its overclocking potential and that is why i need to reconsider my decision on returning this board and if its worth the hassle because of the problems i have with it.
I do think that the UD5 is the better choice considering the fact that it has better audio, better looks, performance wise its the same if not better, better USB 3.0 location on the motherboard.

I have to wait until i get my UD5 back and i will go test that one and it its on par with this i don't think twice of brining the saber back.


----------



## miklkit

I jerked my Sabertooth out a few days ago and replaced it with my old reliable MSI GD80.









The ASUS board runs hot and slow. At the same clocks the GD80 is cooler, faster, and easier to set up.

Also, I too had the jerky mouse problem. Emphasis on HAD.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I jerked my Sabertooth out a few days ago and replaced it with my old reliable MSI GD80.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ASUS board runs hot and slow. At the same clocks the GD80 is cooler, faster, and easier to set up.
> 
> Also, I too had the jerky mouse problem. Emphasis on HAD.


Like i stated before, its all about marketing with Asus and that is for ALL of their products. If their products were really that good, why do they have put so much money in marketing in the first place









I hear nothing but trouble from Asus boards and from their GPU's while MSI is always clocking well and no problems whatsoever. My gigabyte board had no problems as well until it decides to die on me all of a sudden witch can happen with stuff like that.

I never had problems in windows,playing games etc. etc. until i got the Sabertooth and it was nothing but trouble since the beginning... Asus lovers simply do not understand that its actually the BOARD itself that is faulty because even when i completely disabled the EC sensor it cant get stable scores in 3Dmark firestrike even after i did an reinstall of windows 7.

I NEVER had those problems with my Gigabyte UD5 even tho its an much older board, so that says a lot doesn't it







I heard once that Gigabyte fails at updating the bios and lacks support... that is coming from an dude that only had owned the Sabertooth and has no idea on what he is talking about because why update the bios if everything is working fine right our of the box









I admit that i was wrong, i fell for the marketing scam and i am an idiot. But i can assure you it will never happen again because i am going to return this board when i have my UD5 back


----------



## Mega Man

what do you mean? _*I*_ said they dont update their bios, and i _*have*_ ( ie still in my possession )
2x 970a-ud3 rev 1.1
Sabertooth r2 990fx
CVFz
UD7 rev3

only has the sabertooth ? i have validations on all boards, would take a while for me to find them, but i have them

i also have have

2 8350s
1 9570
2 6100
and the experience is FAR better on asus, also i never had any of the "issues" you say you have


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what do you mean? _*I*_ said they dont update their bios, and i _*have*_ ( ie still in my possession )
> 2x 970a-ud3 rev 1.1
> Sabertooth r2 990fx
> CVFz
> UD7 rev3
> 
> only has the sabertooth ? i have validations on all boards, would take a while for me to find them, but i have them
> 
> i also have have
> 
> 2 8350s
> 1 9570
> 2 6100
> and the experience is FAR better on asus, also i never had any of the "issues" you say you have


i wasn't talking about you Mega









There was some other guy that makes claims like that.

you are saying that the experience is FAR better on the Asus than on any other board?? Can you explain why plz?


----------



## wolfwalker

Yeah no probs here either, I"m not a heavy overclocker but I do get all pissy if things don't work right.
I had an asrock extreme9 briefly and sold it for the sabertooth because of the dismal excuse for hardware
monitoring they had and junk USB3 drivers. One of the reasons I got the sabertooth is all the onboard sensors and such that
everyone else seems to disable. Other than the onboard audio dieing out of the blue it's been fine.


----------



## mus1mus

Pfft..

All I can say is Pfft









There's no perfect product. No one size fits all. Heck! GOD even have to introduce himself in a lot of personalities to cater everyone's belief.









There's a way to dispose a product if you don't really like it.

It's called a

T

R

A

S

H

C

A

N

!

You don't have to pollute every thread concerned if you simply don't like a certain product.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

so ill be adding a Alphacool ST30 280 and a Koolance 240 30 FPI 30mm soon... need some fittings and an gpu block but i will likely use the alphacool to help cool the cpu and use the koolance to cool the gpu later when i get a block....im trying to decide if i want to block the current card or wait until i can afford a better one... decisions... and indecision...


----------



## mus1mus

That isn't too hot of a GPU. Makes no sense giving it a swim. You can still sell that. And add a little extra to buy a used 290 or so.. And that man, will need a waterblock.. lol


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> That isn't too hot of a GPU. Makes no sense giving it a swim. You can still sell that. And add a little extra to buy a used 290 or so.. And that man, will need a waterblock.. lol


it's over clocked version gets around 83 while gaming...I know they can go higher without issue but coming from a card that ran 50s is quite the change


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Another one that joins the club...!!

I just installed the Sabertooth over my UD3... and I'm happy now!
I feel my system is just a little bit snappier


----------



## wolfwalker

Interesting fan control tidbit.

I had a splitter on fan header 4 the other day and as an experiment I put a PWM and a 3 pin on that splitter, fan speed still adjusted fine.
I didn't think it should but apparently the board sends both PWM and voltage mod signals at the same time.

Later, I had my two PWM cpu fans on the CPU fan header, and a 3 pin single on the CPU Opt, and the 3pin would not
throttle correctly, 0 would not turn it off, and it did not reach full RPM. I moved said 3 pin fan to CPU 4 and left the CPU fans on the
CPU and CPU Opt and all was well. I thought that was odd. Not bad, just odd.

New case.


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> Interesting fan control tidbit.
> 
> I had a splitter on fan header 4 the other day and as an experiment I put a PWM and a 3 pin on that splitter, fan speed still adjusted fine.
> I didn't think it should but apparently the board sends both PWM and voltage mod signals at the same time.
> 
> Later, I had my two PWM cpu fans on the CPU fan header, and a 3 pin single on the CPU Opt, and the 3pin would not
> throttle correctly, 0 would not turn it off, and it did not reach full RPM. I moved said 3 pin fan to CPU 4 and left the CPU fans on the
> CPU and CPU Opt and all was well. I thought that was odd. Not bad, just odd.


Yes, I've ran into the same issue trying to bypass the Corsair H80 controller. The Chassis fan headers on the Sabertooth do both Voltage and PWM regulation, but it seems that the CPU and CPU Opt are only PWN regulated...


----------



## wolfwalker

Weird, I suspect it has to do with the IT8721F controlling some functions and the SB 7xx/8xx PM2 as SpeedFan calls them controlling others.
Interesting info either way.


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> Interesting fan control tidbit.
> 
> I had a splitter on fan header 4 the other day and as an experiment I put a PWM and a 3 pin on that splitter, fan speed still adjusted fine.
> I didn't think it should but apparently the board sends both PWM and voltage mod signals at the same time.
> 
> Later, I had my two PWM cpu fans on the CPU fan header, and a 3 pin single on the CPU Opt, and the 3pin would not
> throttle correctly, 0 would not turn it off, and it did not reach full RPM. I moved said 3 pin fan to CPU 4 and left the CPU fans on the
> CPU and CPU Opt and all was well. I thought that was odd. Not bad, just odd.
> 
> New case.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> Interesting fan control tidbit.
> 
> I had a splitter on fan header 4 the other day and as an experiment I put a PWM and a 3 pin on that splitter, fan speed still adjusted fine.
> I didn't think it should but apparently the board sends both PWM and voltage mod signals at the same time.
> 
> Later, I had my two PWM cpu fans on the CPU fan header, and a 3 pin single on the CPU Opt, and the 3pin would not
> throttle correctly, 0 would not turn it off, and it did not reach full RPM. I moved said 3 pin fan to CPU 4 and left the CPU fans on the
> CPU and CPU Opt and all was well. I thought that was odd. Not bad, just odd.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I've ran into the same issue trying to bypass the Corsair H80 controller. The Chassis fan headers on the Sabertooth do both Voltage and PWM regulation, but it seems that the CPU and CPU Opt are only PWN regulated...
Click to expand...





voltage controlled will control pwm, by voltage


----------



## wolfwalker

Yeah but not vice versa. Are the non-cpu headers really using PWM then? I never bothered to put a meter on them and see. Hmm..


----------



## Mega Man

no not on most supposedly x97 and x99 have several that are all full pwm


----------



## wolfwalker

Huh, that's interesting.. Thanks for the info.


----------



## Recursion

Help with Asus Sabertooth 990FX and dvd-rw lite-on DH-16A1L! Is this dvd-rw lite-on DH-16A1L compatible with my mainboard? The dvd-rw is from 2007 and it's supposed to worked with Windows 7 and a GA-990FX-UD3!! I recently bought the Sabertooth but my DVD-RW is not recognized in the bios neither in Windows device-tab!! I have tried the all fixes from Microsoft, first off the upperfilter and lowerfilter and the atapi registry key thing and also to deinstall the drive (maybe it was left there from the previous install) to no avail. I have also the latest firmware from KHA1, I think. What else can I try? Is the sata-cable wrong? The sata-port wrong? Thanks a lot!

Update:I changed/cleaned/bend the cable it works now! Thanks a lot!


----------



## ChristineBCW

Whew! This is one of the good Lite-On's using the Renasas chipset. I'm not sure of the last firmware update, but it should be a good writer for most media on the market - and of course for the better media.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChristineBCW*
> 
> Whew! This is one of the good Lite-On's using the Renasas chipset. I'm not sure of the last firmware update, but it should be a good writer for most media on the market - and of course for the better media.


I got from my old HP aXXXX desktop pc. I didn't know I'm that happy







! But the latest bios is from 2007 it's this kh1A bios! But it saved me my day twice and yesterday again it proofs it's trustworthy







!!! Thanks a lot!!!!


----------



## ChristineBCW

We snagged a couple of hundred ASRock Extreme MBs that were their last-ever IDE-laden motherboards simply to accommodate users with most-excellent DVD Burners (older Pioneers 206s, Optiarcs, Plextors, LiteOn's). There's nothing like quality burners and quality media.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChristineBCW*
> 
> We snagged a couple of hundred ASRock Extreme MBs that were their last-ever IDE-laden motherboards simply to accommodate users with most-excellent DVD Burners (older Pioneers 206s, Optiarcs, Plextors, LiteOn's). There's nothing like quality burners and quality media.


Nevermind, I got a sata-drive!!! Maybe it's mislabeld? Is this also the renesas chipset? The update solved some problems but I don't use my drive so often!!


----------



## slick2500

I don't even really use my dvd burner for anything anymore. I have multiple thumb drives. I am kinda sad that Lightscribe went away though


----------



## Mega Man

you can still find them, they have always been rare even in blurays


----------



## ChristineBCW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> ...I got a sata-drive...


Sorry for adding a confusing element - it's just that Renasas chipsets ended up being the Mercedez of disk-driving mechanisms, but that industry switched to the low-cost MediaTek versions, which are more comparable to Yugo's, in these last few years.


----------



## slick2500

I know you can still find them, its just sad that it didn't stick around, I liked Lightscribe way better than having to hand write labels or those stick and peal printable things.


----------



## ChristineBCW

Lightscribe's convenience still can't match the printables, though.


----------



## hucklebuck

I'm on bios 1708. I had many stable (profiles) oc's with this bios. Now when I stress test it fails in IBT. I have tinkered around with the bios from time to time and it seems that I have corrupted it somehow.

I want to flash a new bios, what is the recommended bios, I hear the new ones wont let you flash back to an older one? Is it true.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> I'm on bios 1708. I had many stable (profiles) oc's with this bios. Now when I stress test it fails in IBT. I have tinkered around with the bios from time to time and it seems that I have corrupted it somehow.
> 
> I want to flash a new bios, what is the recommended bios, I hear the new ones wont let you flash back to an older one? Is it true.


not sure but 1503 was my lucky number


----------



## hucklebuck

What did 1503 do for you that you like?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> What did 1503 do for you that you like?


stability for overclocking ram


----------



## slick2500

So I found a strange bug today, I was messing around with my audio settings and changed my mic boost from +20 to +30 and it kept saying that I was unplugging and plugging in my headset. Turned it back down to +20 and everything was fine.


----------



## wolfwalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slick2500*
> 
> So I found a strange bug today, I was messing around with my audio settings and changed my mic boost from +20 to +30 and it kept saying that I was unplugging and plugging in my headset. Turned it back down to +20 and everything was fine.


My onboard audio died alltogether awhile ago. Good excuse for better soundcard anyway. My last asus board the onboard lan died. Seems to be a trend.


----------



## wolfwalker

PSA: Starting SpeedFan while Corsair Link is running thus far has resulted in hard locks every time.
I haven't tried to troubleshoot it yet.


----------



## slick2500

Last Asus board I owned was the Asus A8N-SLI Deluxe.


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> PSA: Starting SpeedFan while Corsair Link is running thus far has resulted in hard locks every time.
> I haven't tried to troubleshoot it yet.


Same here, as I use Corsair Link to control my H80i when overclocking I stopped using SpeedFan and just use my fan controller, fan control in the bios and control of the other fans by voltage (5v,7v, or 12v). I have 12 fans in my case to control so losing SpeedFan is a bother!


----------



## wolfwalker

Yeah, annoying but not unusual. I'll poke at SF later and see if it can be tweaked but I kinda doubt it.
Corsair Link didn't ID the fans and temps on the board completely I don't think, so it'll be off most of the time
for me.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> PSA: Starting SpeedFan while Corsair Link is running thus far has resulted in hard locks every time.
> I haven't tried to troubleshoot it yet.


Is it a software problem? Did you update the drivers, etc. I have the Antec 920 also with usb header control and software. It can control only PWM fans but I got it working with AI but not with SF.


----------



## wolfwalker

It's not unusual to have conflicts if two softwares start trying to access hardware locations concurrently. Sometimes one is just off in it's reading, sometimes the computer locks the heck up.







There are options in SF to be less evasive about probing hardware on startup, that might fix it.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> It's not unusual to have conflicts if two softwares start trying to access hardware locations concurrently. Sometimes one is just off in it's reading, sometimes the computer locks the heck up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are options in SF to be less evasive about probing hardware on startup, that might fix it.


AFAIK SF can't start at startup. I created a special rule in Windows schedule to no avail. It uses the same like Windows maintenance events. Can you elaborate?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> AFAIK SF can't start at startup. I created a special rule in Windows schedule to no avail. It uses the same like Windows maintenance events. Can you elaborate?


he means settings for when sf is ran.. not starting on windows startup


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> My onboard audio died alltogether awhile ago. Good excuse for better soundcard anyway. My last asus board the onboard lan died. Seems to be a trend.


I have had 1 DOA 3 boards with the Audio fail, This last board I kept it around instead of RMA' Now I am sitting waiting for the RMA as the Sata controller went, I was on the phone with ASUS yesterday and the tech did confirm that the LAN and Audio are the main things that go out on these boards. With the way my system failed I have a strong thought that it may be weak contacts on the board itself from the northbridge that cause the major issues..

Either way I got 9 months more out of the board that I have just by ignoring the audio and getting a new sound card


----------



## Rebellion88

I'm enjoying my board at the moment, also looks the business so can't grumble.


----------



## wolfwalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> I have had 1 DOA 3 boards with the Audio fail, This last board I kept it around instead of RMA' Now I am sitting waiting for the RMA as the Sata controller went, I was on the phone with ASUS yesterday and the tech did confirm that the LAN and Audio are the main things that go out on these boards. With the way my system failed I have a strong thought that it may be weak contacts on the board itself from the northbridge that cause the major issues..
> 
> Either way I got 9 months more out of the board that I have just by ignoring the audio and getting a new sound card


Kind of a shame. I used to look specifically for boards with NOTHING onboard but the chipset seems like they cram so much stuff on them now it's pretty hard to do.
My theory was it was easier to design and build the less cluttered the board was = less chance of screwing something up.
I hope to hell this one lasts awhile, my previous one did after it got the LAN croaking out of the way early on.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> Kind of a shame. I used to look specifically for boards with NOTHING onboard but the chipset seems like they cram so much stuff on them now it's pretty hard to do.
> My theory was it was easier to design and build the less cluttered the board was = less chance of screwing something up.
> I hope to hell this one lasts awhile, my previous one did after it got the LAN croaking out of the way early on.


with logic yes, however its the features that separate the boards from each other.. especially now that there is so much competition. All I have to say is that having a 5 year warranty sure pays off.


----------



## DotFader

Just Tinkering with my FX8350 CPU and Sabertooth 990FX v1 and found the sweet spot for a 4.85 GHz Overclock. I am running:

Corsair Obsidian 800D Case
Corsair AX1200 watt Power Supply
Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR3 1866MHz RAM
Corsair H100i Liquid Cooler
2x Diamond HD7970 Crossfired
Samsung 840 EVO 250GB SSD
2x 1TB Hitachi HDD
ASUS Sabertooth 990FXv1 Motherboard
AMD FX8350 CPU @ 4.85GHz

My Settings in the BIOS are as follows:

AI TWEAKER Tab

CPU Multiplier - 20.0
Turbo Core - Disabled
CPU Bus Speed - 240
RAM Frequency- 1599 MHz
CPU/NB Frequency- 2160 MHz
HT Link Speed 2640 MHz
CPU Spread Spectrum- Disabled
PCI-E Spread Spectrum- Disabled
EPU Power Saver Mode- Disabled
CPU Load Line Calibration- Ultra High
CPU/NB Load Line Calibration- High
CPU Current Capability- 130%
CPU/NB Current Capability- 130%
CPU Power Phase Control- Extreme
VRM spread Spectrum Disabled
CPU voltage- Manual - 1.48125v

ADVANCED TAB

AMD Cool n Quiet- Always Disabled
Halt C1E- Disabled (until OC was Tested Stable)
SVM- Disabled(unless you want to run virtual machines)
HPC- Enabled
APM- Disabled

I tried to run at lower voltage for CPU but kept having 3 cores fail in Prime95 Small FFT test. So I bumped up the voltage a little from 1.46v to 1.48v and have been testing again now for about an hour while I wrote this post with no problems.My CPU temp is at about 54c under full load, and 33c idle, but my a/c is on and the side cover is off of my case. Its easier to hit the MEMok button to reset the bios back to stock than it is to remove the Graphics card to remove the Bios Battery.When my Side Panel is on and the A/C is off im sure temps would be a bit higher. Well I hope this post is helpful and thanks for reading. Heres a Pic of my Desktop while testing in Prime95....

OCTest.png 1080k .png file


IMG_20140913_105230011.jpg 2722k .jpg file


Next month I will be getting the MSI Gaming 7 with the Intel 4790K and my brother will be getting my Sabertooth 990FX with FX8350 and 16GB Ripjaws 1600MHz RAM. So he will have to join the Oficial Sabertooth Owners club...lol ....But he has to buy his own Graphics card!


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> I was on the phone with ASUS yesterday and the tech did confirm that the LAN and Audio are the main things that go out on these boards.


Mmmm maybe that's why mine crackles when I select 96 kHz. I still think it's a driver issue or something. I'm using toslink optical - I think it supports 96 kHz... I look into it.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Mmmm maybe that's why mine crackles when I select 96 kHz. I still think it's a driver issue or something. I'm using toslink optical - I think it supports 96 kHz... I look into it.


I had that issue on one of those boards before audio died.. however i have also heard unstable overclocks causing issues as well


----------



## mus1mus

Hardware acceleration On?

It would be nice to check for the maximum supported sampling rate supported by the codec but Realtek's site seem down?


----------



## warpuck

My sabertooth R1 died and it is out of warranty. So i am back to using MSI 890fxa-GD70. The windforce 7870 is going back for RMA Friday. I guess I will wait & see if AMD makes a chipset and CPU that supports DDR4


----------



## Mega Man

That sucks sorry to hear it


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> I had that issue on one of those boards before audio died.. however i have also heard unstable overclocks causing issues as well


Actually I changed toslink cables and 96 kHz started working (so much for Blue Jeans quality). 192 kHz is no go, but 192 kHz, 24bit, stereo is the upper limit of toslink.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Hardware acceleration On?
> 
> It would be nice to check for the maximum supported sampling rate supported by the codec but Realtek's site seem down?


HW accl on a Realtek audio?

192 kHz might be Analog out only. You know, to prevent Blu-ray privacy.









Actually I just check and Realtek says "Primary 16/20/24-bit SPDIF-OUT supports 32k/44.1k/48k/88.2k/96k/192kHz sample rate" Now it could be a crappy TOSLINK transmitter on the mobo - who knows. But at least 96kHz works now.


----------



## hucklebuck

What have you Sabertooth owners done to speed up your boot times? I'm trying to get the fastest boot times as I can. Like what settings have you changed in the bios that make a difference?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> What have you Sabertooth owners done to speed up your boot times? I'm trying to get the fastest boot times as I can. Like what settings have you changed in the bios that make a difference?


I have wrote a fix for hybrid-sleep. You can download it @ energytools.codeplex.com. Hybrid-sleep is really fast and you can continue where you stop the work and avoid bootstrap Windows forever! Fix is because Windows sleep glitch.


----------



## slick2500

On a related note, I found a program called bootracer that logs your startup times. My fastest so far is 55 seconds from power on until all my startup programs are done loafing. Windows itself takes 9 seconds to load.

Sent from A Galaxy Far Far Away........


----------



## wolfwalker

I'd disable startup items when trying to time bootup, use msconfig. Too much variable.
Think about using sleep or susped or something, it's lightyears faster. I rarely reboot.
The hybrid suspend or sleep or whatever it's called is slow too btw, you can disable it, and you should with a UPS
and/or SSD. If I tap my keybaord to wake mine up it's ready by the time I pull out my chair and sit down.


----------



## umeng2002

Some not so obvious things are to disable hardware you don't use. I don't use USB 3.0, or the extra SATA controller, or the serial port, so all that stuff is disabled in the BIOS. So when you boot, the system doesn't wait for them to post. It just skips over it like it's not there.


----------



## Mega Man

for starters NEVER install ai suite, it significantly slows windows startup

other then that

disable all uneeded stuffs uefi only verify you install only in GPT


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> I'd disable startup items when trying to time bootup, use msconfig. Too much variable.
> Think about using sleep or susped or something, it's lightyears faster. I rarely reboot.
> The hybrid suspend or sleep or whatever it's called is slow too btw, you can disable it, and you should with a UPS
> and/or SSD. If I tap my keybaord to wake mine up it's ready by the time I pull out my chair and sit down.


For me hybrid-sleep isn't slowly. It has the advantage that the pc is off (without power) and all memory and so on is saved to disk so you can start from where you has to stop! The other sleep didn't work because my oc, especially of the fsb! when you don't need fsb oc I think you don't my fix either! Maybe MS can fix it on their own?


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> for starters NEVER install ai suite, it significantly slows windows startup
> 
> other then that
> 
> disable all uneeded stuffs uefi only verify you install only in GPT


What is install GPT only?


----------



## Chita Gonza

Does this Sabretooth not have that black protective cooling shield thing?I am interested in this mobo but was hoping it would have the shield thing the same as the Intel ones.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chita Gonza*
> 
> Does this Sabretooth not have that black protective cooling shield thing?I am interested in this mobo but was hoping it would have the shield thing the same as the Intel ones.


No.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> No.


if you are taking about the "armor" no I don't think they make one for the amd platform with the armor... but it's a great board armor or not...I'd like to see a full cover block for it though


----------



## wolfwalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> For me hybrid-sleep isn't slowly. It has the advantage that the pc is off (without power) and all memory and so on is saved to disk so you can start from where you has to stop! The other sleep didn't work because my oc, especially of the fsb! when you don't need fsb oc I think you don't my fix either! Maybe MS can fix it on their own?


I think the issue was shutdown time with hybrid sleep, it wanted to write all the ram to disk like hibernate.
I have an SSD and 16gb ram, and a big UPS, so I just turned it off. It's like six or seven seconds up or down
now. I think there is some software for fast bootup using Windows 8, read something about it somewhere, never tried it.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> For me hybrid-sleep isn't slowly. It has the advantage that the pc is off (without power) and all memory and so on is saved to disk so you can start from where you has to stop! The other sleep didn't work because my oc, especially of the fsb! when you don't need fsb oc I think you don't my fix either! Maybe MS can fix it on their own?
> 
> 
> 
> I think the issue was shutdown time with hybrid sleep, it wanted to write all the ram to disk like hibernate.
> I have an SSD and 16gb ram, and a big UPS, so I just turned it off. It's like six or seven seconds up or down
> now. I think there is some software for fast bootup using Windows 8, read something about it somewhere, never tried it.
Click to expand...

Why shutdown time? First off, he asks about boot time. Second shutdown time isn't important at all!? During Idle time I don't care about the shutdown time. Did I miss something? Fast boot seems nice buy I need a SSD!! It's too expensive at the moment!


----------



## wolfwalker

Shutdown/sleep/hibernate time matters as I don't leave my PC until it's asleep, if I have to hit the button and stand here for 20-30 seconds, I'm annoyed.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> No.
> 
> 
> 
> if you are taking about the "armor" no I don't think they make one for the amd platform with the armor... but it's a great board armor or not...I'd like to see a full cover block for it though
Click to expand...

Yes, I mean the armor. I was thinking to buy a lntel for some time. The armor seems interesting enough. Also the possibility to use the ssd for windows cache or boot/system/file cache in the bios!!


----------



## LostParticle

I've had a problem recently with my motherboard and I'd like to ask your opinion about it. I have an ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0, purchased 5-6 months ago.

After an o/c attempt my computer froze. Very very rarely it does that but this time it happened. I shut it down, unplugged it, and performed an RTC Ram clear (with the jumper). When I powered it back on it was not booting, neither was it beeping, there was just the CPU_Led lit all the time. I have tried several times and it was not booting! I have also taken off the battery. I have even left it for one full day without electric current and tried again, with no success.

I started to believe that my microprocessor was fried, until I took it off and installed it on my old motherboard, a Gigabyte. The computer booted up and everything worked perfectly, at least for the short time I have left the processor there. It even completed a 40 minutes Small FFTs test on stock settings.

Then I placed the microprocessor back on my Sabertooth and it started working again! The computer booted up normally and it completed a 40 minutes Small FFTs test, on stock settings, but&#8230;when I stopped the test the computer froze again. This time though it started functioning again after I performed an RTC Ram clear.

- Is my microprocessor degraded? I own it for approximately two years now and I have started overclocking it 3-4 months ago.
- Is my motherboard OK? Why is it behaving like this, all of the sudden? Why does it not boot?
- What can I do to check what's going on and which part needs replacement, if that's the case?

Thank you!


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> I've had a problem recently with my motherboard and I'd like to ask your opinion about it. I have an ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0, purchased 5-6 months ago.
> 
> After an o/c attempt my computer froze. Very very rarely it does that but this time it happened. I shut it down, unplugged it, and performed an RTC Ram clear (with the jumper). When I powered it back on it was not booting, neither was it beeping, there was just the CPU_Led lit all the time. I have tried several times and it was not booting! I have also taken off the battery. I have even left it for one full day without electric current and tried again, with no success.
> 
> I started to believe that my microprocessor was fried, until I took it off and installed it on my old motherboard, a Gigabyte. The computer booted up and everything worked perfectly, at least for the short time I have left the processor there. It even completed a 40 minutes Small FFTs test on stock settings.
> 
> Then I placed the microprocessor back on my Sabertooth and it started working again! The computer booted up normally and it completed a 40 minutes Small FFTs test, on stock settings, but&#8230;when I stopped the test the computer froze again. This time though it started functioning again after I performed an RTC Ram clear.
> 
> - Is my microprocessor degraded? I own it for approximately two years now and I have started overclocking it 3-4 months ago.
> - Is my motherboard OK? Why is it behaving like this, all of the sudden? Why does it not boot?
> - What can I do to check what's going on and which part needs replacement, if that's the case?
> 
> Thank you!


Perhaps the RTC ram clear or battery method of clearing didn't work. I remember there is a software tool to overwrite the nvram. I'm not knowing the difference between cmos and nvram but imo the battery is needed only for the clock and not for the memory. I think nvram or cmos doesn't need a battery?! Correct me if I'm wrong! Perhaps also the chip is degraded or it's a chip glitch!?


----------



## Mike The Owl

Nij
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> I've had a problem recently with my motherboard and I'd like to ask your opinion about it. I have an ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0, purchased 5-6 months ago.
> 
> After an o/c attempt my computer froze. Very very rarely it does that but this time it happened. I shut it down, unplugged it, and performed an RTC Ram clear (with the jumper). When I powered it back on it was not booting, neither was it beeping, there was just the CPU_Led lit all the time. I have tried several times and it was not booting! I have also taken off the battery. I have even left it for one full day without electric current and tried again, with no success.
> 
> I started to believe that my microprocessor was fried, until I took it off and installed it on my old motherboard, a Gigabyte. The computer booted up and everything worked perfectly, at least for the short time I have left the processor there. It even completed a 40 minutes Small FFTs test on stock settings.
> 
> Then I placed the microprocessor back on my Sabertooth and it started working again! The computer booted up normally and it completed a 40 minutes Small FFTs test, on stock settings, but&#8230;when I stopped the test the computer froze again. This time though it started functioning again after I performed an RTC Ram clear.
> 
> - Is my microprocessor degraded? I own it for approximately two years now and I have started overclocking it 3-4 months ago.
> - Is my motherboard OK? Why is it behaving like this, all of the sudden? Why does it not boot?
> - What can I do to check what's going on and which part needs replacement, if that's the case?
> 
> Thank you![/quote
> 
> I had the same problem, check your ram, that it is seated correctly and not damaged, I actually burnt out two sticks and had to replace them. Mike the Owl


----------



## LostParticle

Thank you for your replies!

@Recursion Perhaps you're right about those methods not working but I have tried them lots of times, especially the RTC ram clearance because it's easy. I took the battery off one time only because I have to take out my graphics card to achieve that. The jumper though, I've tried that a lot.

@Mike The Owl , thanks, my memory kit is new and it is seated properly, I've checked it.

Two questions:

- If my motherboard would be faulty wouldn't that be captured during POST? I mean, since it passed the POST state, doesn't this mean that it is OK?
- What does CPU degradation mean? My computer is working for 4 hours and 30 minutes now, on stock, without any glitch, without any problem. IF my CPU would be degraded would I be able to do that?

Sorry, I haven't googled it yet and also I am not a native English speaker.

Thank you.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Thank you for your replies!
> 
> @Recursion Perhaps you're right about those methods not working but I have tried them lots of times, especially the RTC ram clearance because it's easy. I took the battery off one time only because I have to take out my graphics card to achieve that. The jumper though, I've tried that a lot.
> 
> @Mike The Owl , thanks, my memory kit is new and it is seated properly, I've checked it.
> 
> Two questions:
> 
> - If my motherboard would be faulty wouldn't that be captured during POST? I mean, since it passed the POST state, doesn't this mean that it is OK?
> - What does CPU degradation mean? My computer is working for 4 hours and 30 minutes now, on stock, without any glitch, without any problem. IF my CPU would be degraded would I be able to do that?
> 
> Sorry, I haven't googled it yet and also I am not a native English speaker.
> 
> Thank you.


degradation is simply the chip requiring more voltage to be stable over time...over on the 8320/8350 thread these guys have NEVER seen a chip degrade yet even the guys running 1.6v+ 24/7... so id say that can be ruled out...

I have had to clear cmos a few times before it worked although not on this board yet...some of the more experienced with this board can tell you more


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Thank you for your replies!
> 
> @Recursion Perhaps you're right about those methods not working but I have tried them lots of times, especially the RTC ram clearance because it's easy. I took the battery off one time only because I have to take out my graphics card to achieve that. The jumper though, I've tried that a lot.
> 
> @Mike The Owl , thanks, my memory kit is new and it is seated properly, I've checked it.
> 
> Two questions:
> 
> - If my motherboard would be faulty wouldn't that be captured during POST? I mean, since it passed the POST state, doesn't this mean that it is OK?
> - What does CPU degradation mean? My computer is working for 4 hours and 30 minutes now, on stock, without any glitch, without any problem. IF my CPU would be degraded would I be able to do that?
> 
> Sorry, I haven't googled it yet and also I am not a native English speaker.
> 
> Thank you.


If I remember I used the CMOS-De-Animator but to be sure you can use the usb-flash method to flash a new uefi. It think with the usb-flash it also clears cmos/nvram/important non-volative memory. At least I would try it if I where you







.

http://download.cnet.com/CMOS-De-Animator-64-bit/3000-18512_4-75221776.html
http://superuser.com/questions/406940/i-need-to-reset-a-bios-password-using-software-on-windows-7


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> degradation is simply the chip requiring more voltage to be stable over time...over on the 8320/8350 thread these guys have NEVER seen a chip degrade yet even the guys running 1.6v+ 24/7... so id say that can be ruled out...
> 
> I have had to clear cmos a few times before it worked although not on this board yet...some of the more experienced with this board can tell you more


Yeah, you are absolutely right about cpu degradation, I've just googled it myself, it is not that, it cannot be that.

I really hope some experienced Sabertooth owners will reply to me! This whole thing really surprised me badly because my motherboard is new and I trusted it!! And now this happened and I feel I cannot trust it anymore... I've succeeded in some decent o/c attempts, always respecting the rules about temperatures and (especially) the max VCore voltage. The day that thing happened I was trying to "transform" a simple Multiplier 4.8 o/c, already 12h Prime stable, from manual voltage to offset voltage. And then it froze and so on, and...it took it a few...days to recover!

That scares me.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Yeah, you are absolutely right about cpu degradation, I've just googled it myself, it is not that, it cannot be that.
> 
> I really hope some experienced Sabertooth owners will reply to me! This whole thing really surprised me badly because my motherboard is new and I trusted it!! And now this happened and I feel I cannot trust it anymore... I've succeeded in some decent o/c attempts, always respecting the rules about temperatures and (especially) the max VCore voltage. The day that thing happened I was trying to "transform" a simple Multiplier 4.8 o/c, already 12h Prime stable, from manual voltage to offset voltage. And then it froze and so on, and...it took it a few...days to recover!
> 
> That scares me.


could be as others have stated need to re flash bios.. I've had to do that before when I hadn't made any changes for months... borked bios can cause many odd things


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> could be as others have stated need to re flash bios.. I've had to do that before when I hadn't made any changes for months... borked bios can cause many odd things


I have the latest (Version 2501). You mean I should re-flash it ? Install the same BIOS over again?
Ok, I will try it.

EDIT:
Okay, I have re-flashed the latest BIOS. After loading optimized defaults I went back to set my DRAM (freq, timings). One thing I've noticed is that HT Link Speed if left on Auto, it is reduced to 2200 MHz. I've set it manually at 2600.

I suppose I will have to stress it a bit to see how it will go. If anyone has any other ideas, you're welcome

Thank you.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> for starters NEVER install ai suite, it significantly slows windows startup
> 
> other then that
> 
> disable all uneeded stuffs uefi only verify you install only in GPT
> 
> 
> 
> What is install GPT only?
Click to expand...

you can do it in windows 8 or win 7

but i will give you the windows 8 guide. do the same for 7 ( if you do the dos commands you can check to see if you are running GPT )

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sean Webster*


open a command prompt.
Type Diskpart, press Enter
Type List Disk , press Enter

If you have GPT there will be a start under GPT

to understand better what it is please see his guide


----------



## madmanmarz

Anyone have any idea why I would be having temperature spikes? I swapped from an m5a97 evo to this Sabertooth r2 with no other changes. I have even re-seated the CPU twice to be sure.

Previously, during stressing, if my CPU would be at 55c, it would sometimes slowly rise 5c or so (to ~60) and then back down again. You could see it happening on the temp monitoring app (I have tried all of them (openhardwaremonitor, coretemp, hwmonitor, etc)).

Now, it does the same thing, but my max recorded temp is 10c higher than THAT, and I've never seen the CPU actually read that temp at the time. So for instance, if it's usually at 55 with a max of 60, the max temp shows as 70c! And it happens almost as soon as I start stressing!

Also I have heard that the max core temp of 8-cores has been verified as 70c. Any truth to that? I always thought it was 62 core, ~70 socket.


----------



## mus1mus

AOD Updated that to 70.

Spikes can happen.

Different Boards. Different Characteristics.

LLC Settings also Differs and could create a big difference.


----------



## madmanmarz

I have the LLC and other stuff at pretty mild settings. Anyway gonna test overnight again and see what happens. Never really seen this before in all my years.


----------



## mus1mus

Just note of your

Vcore; It may have came out higher


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Just note of your
> 
> Vcore; It may have came out higher


especially if you use turbo it defaults to 1.4v and the optimize settings in the bios had mine way screwed up from what it could run at everything was over estimated except ram which was set to 1333 on a 1866 kit


----------



## Almin94

I bought ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 and my cpu fan operate at maximum speed (Corsair H60, one corsair 4pin PWM fan)! Chassis fans works great, but this fan from cpu cooler stuck at 2000RPM which is maximum. CPU Q-Fan enabled in Bios and it is on Standard, but nothing help.

What can I do to fix this problem?

Thanks


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Almin94*
> 
> I bought ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 and my cpu fan operate at maximum speed (Corsair H60, one corsair 4pin PWM fan)! Chassis fans works great, but this fan from cpu cooler stuck at 2000RPM which is maximum. CPU Q-Fan enabled in Bios and it is on Standard, but nothing help.
> 
> What can I do to fix this problem?
> 
> Thanks


Clear Cmos and/or reflash/update bios!! Install AI and check sensors and fan speed!


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Almin94*
> 
> I bought ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 and my cpu fan operate at maximum speed (Corsair H60, one corsair 4pin PWM fan)! Chassis fans works great, but this fan from cpu cooler stuck at 2000RPM which is maximum. CPU Q-Fan enabled in Bios and it is on Standard, but nothing help.
> 
> What can I do to fix this problem?
> 
> Thanks


Make sure the fan is plugged into 4 pin CPU_FAN ( CPU_OPT has the same pins so you could try that). Check in the bios under Monitor tab that CPU Fan speed isn't set ti ignore and that CPU Q-Fan control is enabled.set CPU fan speed low limit to 600rpm and as you already know CPU fan profile to standard. If you want to you can set to manual and enter upper and lower temp setting and min and max duty cycles. Then f10 save and see if it works.


----------



## Mega Man

or .... check to see if pwm is enabled

* corsair does not use pwm specs, some headers dont work on some fan controllers and some mobos


----------



## Almin94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> or .... check to see if pwm is enabled
> 
> * corsair does not use pwm specs, some headers dont work on some fan controllers and some mobos


How to check that?

Btw, stock cooler works great when it is connected to cpu_fan and it isn't fixed to max RPM (it is also 4pin like corsair). But Corsair's fan works very well in others ports (chassis_fan), it only go to max rpm when it is connected to cpu_fan.


----------



## Almin94

Anyone?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Almin94*
> 
> Anyone?


like other stated corsair doesn't use pwm specs.


----------



## Almin94

On old mobo ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3 it works normal.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Almin94*
> 
> On old mobo ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3 it works normal.


has to be a bios or a ai suite setting... have you checked temps on your cpu core and socket? is the issue the noise? I don't know much about noise reduction I run everything full blast lol


----------



## Almin94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> has to be a bios or a ai suite setting... have you checked temps on your cpu core and socket? is the issue the noise? I don't know much about noise reduction I run everything full blast lol


Temperatures are ok. Don't know what can be a problem... Stock cooler works great. Also this Corsairs fan work normal with other fan connector on mobtherboard, only don't work with cpu_fan connector.. :/


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Almin94*
> 
> Temperatures are ok. Don't know what can be a problem... Stock cooler works great. Also this Corsairs fan work normal with other fan connector on mobtherboard, only don't work with cpu_fan connector.. :/


that is why I'm thinking it could be a setting in bios or a program running in windows over riding bios settings...by ok what are you getting temp wise? Maybe post a picture of bios with Q fan settings on manual....


----------



## Almin94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that is why I'm thinking it could be a setting in bios or a program running in windows over riding bios settings...by ok what are you getting temp wise? Maybe post a picture of bios with Q fan settings on manual....


It is also fixed to max RPM with Q-Fan settings on manual. Other pwm fans in that connector works very well.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

That's an odd thing... perhaps plug another fan in to not get boot error and control that fan from the other header I.e. swap the two fans so both can be controlled....odd that it would not be controllable only on cpu header but work on another...


----------



## Almin94

That is only way I think.
















Any suggestions are welcome...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Almin94*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> or .... check to see if pwm is enabled
> 
> * corsair does not use pwm specs, some headers dont work on some fan controllers and some mobos
> 
> 
> 
> How to check that?
> 
> Btw, stock cooler works great when it is connected to cpu_fan and it isn't fixed to max RPM (it is also 4pin like corsair). But Corsair's fan works very well in others ports (chassis_fan), it only go to max rpm when it is connected to cpu_fan.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Almin94*
> 
> That is only way I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions are welcome...


in bios you would want auto or turbo or silent, as to how to check if it is on pwm again in bios


----------



## chrisjames61

Just got myself a first generation Sabertooth 990FX. bios 1604.


----------



## Almin94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> in bios you would want auto or turbo or silent, as to how to check if it is on pwm again in bios


All options give max speed of fan.


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Almin94*
> 
> All options give max speed of fan.


Swap the fan for another


----------



## Almin94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> Swap the fan for another


Yes, I will.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> Swap the fan for another


definitely an oddity....I don't know that I've ever seen a fan not work on one header that another works fine on and itself works fine on another header.... quite a conundrum


----------



## Almin94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> definitely an oddity....I don't know that I've ever seen a fan not work on one header that another works fine on and itself works fine on another header.... quite a conundrum


I know. Work fine one every other header except the main cpu_fan.


----------



## wolfwalker

Didn't someone tell me only the CPU and maybe CPU OPT were true PWM and the others were voltage control a few pages back?
I never noticed till I put a 3pin on OPT and a 4 pin on CPU and the OPT fan didn't not vary speed.


----------



## Almin94

Anyone else have Corsair fan in combination with this motherboard?


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Almin94*
> 
> Anyone else have Corsair fan in combination with this motherboard?


Yep, H80i


----------



## Almin94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> Yep, H80i


And you haven't problems?


----------



## Mike The Owl

And I had both fans on a splitter pluged into CPU and both worked. Now on corsair link as I managed to get it to work alright.


----------



## Almin94

Problem is with corsair's H60 fan, not motherboard. This corsair fan which came with H60 2013 edition cooler isn't "true PWM" fan. This mobo only accept PWM fans plugged in cpu_fan header.


----------



## Almin94

Can anyone tell me if this mobo have the fan options for the header to get DC mode control, like my old motherboard (ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3) ? Thanks


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Almin94*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if this mobo have the fan options for the header to get DC mode control, like my old motherboard (ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3) ? Thanks


I don't have the PWM fans plugged in, I am only using 3 ping connection and have not had an issue at all


----------



## Almin94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> I don't have the PWM fans plugged in, I am only using 3 ping connection and have not had an issue at all


I can not see voltage control for cpu_fan header in bios or something similar for adjusting that


----------



## wolfwalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Almin94*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if this mobo have the fan options for the header to get DC mode control, like my old motherboard (ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3) ? Thanks


I'm pretty sure all the chassis fan headers are DC, worked fine with a bunch of 3 pins I had on mine, and four pins later. Cpu and cpu opt are PWM 4 pin only far as I can tell.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> I'm pretty sure all the chassis fan headers are DC, worked fine with a bunch of 3 pins I had on mine, and four pins later. Cpu and cpu opt are PWM 4 pin only far as I can tell.


you can put 3 pin on those 4 pin, however you have to have them connected in order for the system to run, its a safety feature.... Like I said All I am running is 3 pin I don't have any 4 pin


----------



## wolfwalker

Makes sense, I remember there was some difference, I tried a 4 on CPU and a 3 on OPT and it didn't regulate the 3 pin.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> Makes sense, I remember there was some difference, I tried a 4 on CPU and a 3 on OPT and it didn't regulate the 3 pin.


yeah the 4th pin is for the PWM regulation,


----------



## Almin94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> I'm pretty sure all the chassis fan headers are DC, worked fine with a bunch of 3 pins I had on mine, and four pins later. Cpu and cpu opt are PWM 4 pin only far as I can tell.


True. I tested it.


----------



## Benjiw

What is TMPin2 on these boards? Just got mine after my UD5 died and killed my CPU


----------



## Almin94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> What is TMPin2 on these boards? Just got mine after my UD5 died and killed my CPU


Open thermal radar and you will know.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Almin94*
> 
> Open thermal radar and you will know.


I opened thermal armour and nothing is near 128 degrees at all?


----------



## Benjiw

Sorry I meant radar, I've got my clock to 4.85ghz but I'm struggling with 4.9 due to heat, my bus speed keeps bouncing but i have LLC under extreme settings so not sure what i'm missing?


----------



## mus1mus

Extreme Overshoots Voltage. Even Ultra does.

High would just be perfectly fine for a very stable Vcore.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Extreme Overshoots Voltage. Even Ultra does.
> 
> High would just be perfectly fine for a very stable Vcore.


Ah ok, I'm still learning all this stuff so I'm pretty surprised my 4.85 is stable, I'm really impressed with this motherboard so far, with most things on auto I go a pretty decent speed, not sure how it will bench though as my last OC was pure FSB and volt fine tuning until my mobo died and killed my cpu. I cried a little, but its turned out pretty well!


----------



## mus1mus

Coming from a Giga to a Kitty?

Most probably you won't get the same kind of Memory performance you got from the Giga. But Kitty will be the better board OC wise.

You might also find out that FSB OC Headroom on both boards will vary. I got a little higher Stable FSB on the GIGA.

*What temps are you getting on your current cooling by the way?*


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Coming from a Giga to a Kitty?
> 
> Most probably you won't get the same kind of Memory performance you got from the Giga. But Kitty will be the better board OC wise.
> 
> You might also find out that FSB OC Headroom on both boards will vary. I got a little higher Stable FSB on the GIGA.
> 
> *What temps are you getting on your current cooling by the way?*


Yeah I agree, I found out the hard way about that one lol, I couldn't get a stable 4.7ghz with just FSB and tweaking other things like I did with the UD5. However, this sabre has way more options than my old original UD5 (mine didnt have he uefi) and tbh my UD5 didn't like my corsair and Gskill Ram combo at all but this board deal with it fine, not had a single problem as far as I can tell.

Temps? in HWmonitor I get 60ish at the cpu then same for the package temps, VRM's are staying way cooler than my UD5 by 10 degrees, at 70c + volts at the cpu max at 1.488v which I couldn't do with my old UD5 at all. Maybe I did it all wrong and cooked the board but It wouldn't boot my os and USB devices on several occasions before OCing began. So I put the blame on that lol!


----------



## Mega Man

i dissagree, i could boot at 2400 cl9 cmd rate 1 on kitty never could on giga ( chips that never should be run at that, but can ) @ 90ns i might add too


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i dissagree, i could boot at 2400 cl9 cmd rate 1 on kitty never could on giga ( chips that never should be run at that, but can ) @ 90ns i might add too


Multi not available on a Giga right?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i dissagree, i could boot at 2400 cl9 cmd rate 1 on kitty never could on giga ( chips that never should be run at that, but can ) @ 90ns i might add too


yeah my gskill sniper memory won't run at any setting other than 300ns which sucks...it's an 1866 cl9 kit


----------



## Benjiw

Ok So it's been a week or so of ownership and I'm still playing and tweaking, I've currently got an issue with temps but I was absolutely shocked when I woke up from a nap today. My girlfriend was using the pc to watch youtube while I was asleep and she kept all the information windows open (thermal radar, HWmonitor and CPU-Z), she woke me up saying my PC "Your pc just said the temps where at 0.48 or 84, then later the cpu temp said it was -22c?". At first I was a bit confused but remembered it had done this before, possibly down to unstable overclock, but here is the real shock...



Now I think I'm correct in assuming if my CPU hit those volts, I wouldn't be typing on it right now but it is worrying. Is the kitty known for incorrect readings? is my board faulty? Lmao I often feel like a tool posting here because I worry about blowing up my board since the last one popped it's clogs.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Ok So it's been a week or so of ownership and I'm still playing and tweaking, I've currently got an issue with temps but I was absolutely shocked when I woke up from a nap today. My girlfriend was using the pc to watch youtube while I was asleep and she kept all the information windows open (thermal radar, HWmonitor and CPU-Z), she woke me up saying my PC "Your pc just said the temps where at 0.48 or 84, then later the cpu temp said it was -22c?". At first I was a bit confused but remembered it had done this before, possibly down to unstable overclock, but here is the real shock...
> 
> 
> 
> Now I think I'm correct in assuming if my CPU hit those volts, I wouldn't be typing on it right now but it is worrying. Is the kitty known for incorrect readings? is my board faulty? Lmao I often feel like a tool posting here because I worry about blowing up my board since the last one popped it's clogs.


Uninstall AI Suite,Thermal Radar or anything that came with ASUS' software bundle.

Very prone to MISREADS.


----------



## Astrogoth

I have an older Sabertooth v1 with an 8150. It's past time to upgrade. I plan to wait until Black Friday for a $99 8350. Maybe.

Here's my related question: What's the latest super SDRAM that our v1 Sabertooths will accept?

Thanks brothers.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Uninstall AI Suite,Thermal Radar or anything that came with ASUS' software bundle.
> 
> Very prone to MISREADS.


Anything driver wise I should keep? The more information the better, Thanks btw


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Anything driver wise I should keep? The more information the better, Thanks btw


Install the Drivers.
Avoid the Bundled Software.

USE HWiNFO (disable EC Sensor on first run + forever)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i dissagree, i could boot at 2400 cl9 cmd rate 1 on kitty never could on giga ( chips that never should be run at that, but can ) @ 90ns i might add too
> 
> 
> 
> Multi not available on a Giga right?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Ok So it's been a week or so of ownership and I'm still playing and tweaking, I've currently got an issue with temps but I was absolutely shocked when I woke up from a nap today. My girlfriend was using the pc to watch youtube while I was asleep and she kept all the information windows open (thermal radar, HWmonitor and CPU-Z), she woke me up saying my PC "Your pc just said the temps where at 0.48 or 84, then later the cpu temp said it was -22c?". At first I was a bit confused but remembered it had done this before, possibly down to unstable overclock, but here is the real shock...
> 
> 
> 
> Now I think I'm correct in assuming if my CPU hit those volts, I wouldn't be typing on it right now but it is worrying. Is the kitty known for incorrect readings? is my board faulty? Lmao I often feel like a tool posting here because I worry about blowing up my board since the last one popped it's clogs.
> 
> 
> 
> Uninstall AI Suite,Thermal Radar or anything that came with ASUS' software bundle.
> 
> Very prone to MISREADS.
Click to expand...

and hwinfo, use hwinfo

hwinfo is known to give false readings on this platform can happen with hwinfo but not often

as to the notifications aisuite sucks. big


----------



## Astrogoth

You want the USB super speed drivers for sure. 5 MB/s without drivers and 65 MB/s with the drivers!


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I've read about for a while... and I've found anything from 75C to until you smell plastic burning for answers to the question I'm about to ask... but here goes... How hot is too hot for socket temps on the Sabertooth 990FX R2? My core temps are lovely in the mid 50's max under full load... but after a bit my socket temps climb to 75C... I'm on the brink of 5.1ghz stability...need a tad more volts... and don't have much for a fan to put on the socket so I'd like to know just how hot is too hot.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I've read about for a while... and I've found anything from 75C to until you smell plastic burning for answers to the question I'm about to ask... but here goes... How hot is too hot for socket temps on the Sabertooth 990FX R2? My core temps are lovely in the mid 50's max under full load... but after a bit my socket temps climb to 75C... I'm on the brink of 5.1ghz stability...need a tad more volts... and don't have much for a fan to put on the socket so I'd like to know just how hot is too hot.


85 IIRC, on the socket and you will throttle.

Answered you on the other thread


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 85 IIRC, on the socket and you will throttle.
> 
> Answered you on the other thread


lol.. yeah.. I put that there and then was like....







there is a special thread about this board...


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> lol.. yeah.. I put that there and then was like....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> there is a special thread about this board...


a six dollar fan or two goes a long way I went from having socket temps 20c above core to having 5 to 7 degree difference with two 120mm fans also in some cases the lower socket temp helps core to be a bit cooler 1 to 2c... at least on mine it does... when running the chip/board ragged anything can help


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> a six dollar fan or two goes a long way I went from having socket temps 20c above core to having 5 to 7 degree difference with two 120mm fans also in some cases the lower socket temp helps core to be a bit cooler 1 to 2c... at least on mine it does... when running the chip/board ragged anything can help


I do have a 12$ fan blowing on the front side atm.. 106 cfm fan actually blowing across the vrm and socket area... I just need to cut a hole in the plate behind the motherboard so I can put a fan there.... I don't have any room for another fan on the front side... hoses and such get in the way... before I went with custom loop cooling my socket was always cooler than my core temps... it wasn't till I built this loop that my core temps suddenly got lower than my socket... and that only happens during long run stress test situations... in games and such usually core temps and socket temps stay withing 5C of each other... like now, since I've been on here for about an hour now my peak core temp is 43.8 and socket temp peak is 39.... but in game socket temps can get right at 50C on this OC with core temps maxing out around 48C soooo, its really only an issue if cpu is under full load... that's why I'm not overly concerned about it... I don't fold or do tons of benchmarks... mostly just during the "tuning" phase of things I don't want to kill it lol


----------



## warpuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astrogoth*
> 
> I have an older Sabertooth v1 with an 8150. It's past time to upgrade. I plan to wait until Black Friday for a $99 8350. Maybe.
> 
> Here's my related question: What's the latest super SDRAM that our v1 Sabertooths will accept?
> 
> Thanks brothers.


When mine was working I noticed a bigger difference between the HT link speed vs the memory speed as far it effect on total system speed. so I decide to not grab some 1866 or 2000 which should work because the timing adjustments are present in the bios. My cpu does not like the HT link pushed much beyond 2600 (8350) I played with voltages and just generated more heat. If yours goes beyond 2600 easily yes 2000 speed memory might the thing. going from 2200 to 2600 is noticed right away in your boot time. even if the memory is set at 1333. You really notice it if you have a SSD


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I do have a 12$ fan blowing on the front side atm.. 106 cfm fan actually blowing across the vrm and socket area... I just need to cut a hole in the plate behind the motherboard so I can put a fan there.... I don't have any room for another fan on the front side... hoses and such get in the way... before I went with custom loop cooling my socket was always cooler than my core temps... it wasn't till I built this loop that my core temps suddenly got lower than my socket... and that only happens during long run stress test situations... in games and such usually core temps and socket temps stay withing 5C of each other... like now, since I've been on here for about an hour now my peak core temp is 43.8 and socket temp peak is 39.... but in game socket temps can get right at 50C on this OC with core temps maxing out around 48C soooo, its really only an issue if cpu is under full load... that's why I'm not overly concerned about it... I don't fold or do tons of benchmarks... mostly just during the "tuning" phase of things I don't want to kill it lol


every case I've bought since 2005 has has a cutout sorry I assumed yours did


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> every case I've bought since 2005 has has a cutout sorry I assumed yours did


lol... that's exactly what I did when I ordered it... I assumed it did .... rofl... good case other than that though.... oh well.. nothing a dremel won't fix when I feel like it.... but I may not bother... I just spent 2 hours in game and max socket temp got to 49 and cores got to 46... and that was only for a bit, average in game was 39.4 socket and 35.8 cores so not too bad... and that's my most cpu intensive game so I figure if I just want to run permanently at 5.1ghz I'm good there.... it was just stress testing it I got spooked about... but I won't be doing that again since it proved stable enough for me.


----------



## Motokiume

I've had the ASUS Sabertooth 990FX Rev 1 board since December 2011.
I am very pleased with it, but I am thinking of upgrading the processor.
I currently have a 6300, but I was thinking of getting an 8370.
Does anyone have any evidence that the new 8370/8370E processors will work with my revision 1.0 board with BIOS 1604?


----------



## Astrogoth

I took your advice and cranked my HT up to 2600 from 2000. Windows 10 boots fine but crashes in AIDA64 just after the test starts. "Hardware Failure". It was the 6950 video card.

The main cause turned out to be the main voltage settings. Here are my new ones:

With voltage compensating settings on "Auto" not "Extreme" or "Normal".

CPU 1.337
CPU/NB 1.200
CPU VDDA 2.475
DRAM 1.39

These may need some fine adjusting to lower the heat output. AIDA64 says the system's stable at 4.5Ghz and well under 67C. HT link at 2600!

Thanks man!


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Motokiume*
> 
> I've had the ASUS Sabertooth 990FX Rev 1 board since December 2011.
> I am very pleased with it, but I am thinking of upgrading the processor.
> I currently have a 6300, but I was thinking of getting an 8370.
> Does anyone have any evidence that the new 8370/8370E processors will work with my revision 1.0 board with BIOS 1604?


No first hand experience, but it should work. The only difference is the number of cores and clock speed. I believe even the 9590 can easily run in the R1


----------



## darkelixa

Thinking of re buying an amd 8350 and a suitable mainboard again as I have had enough of my Intel cpu and board. Keep getting power errors in the event log when I have tried two psus so I have narrowed it down to the mainboard.

In Australia there is only really two mainboards that are really left for purchase, everything seems to be intel these days

I have the choice of either

990fx rv2 sabertooth or

Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3-R4

Will the sabertooth be a better mainboard than the gigabyte and will the amd 8350 be a good enough cpu for MMO games, I mainly play world of warcraft these days and thats it lol


----------



## slick2500

Sabertooth all the way. I had a UD3 rev4 and it was a big pile of crap.


----------



## darkelixa

The asus board I have for my intel is a z97 gryphon and what a piece of lol it is

Use your amd for much gaming, it wont downgrade my fps from an intel 4690 will it?


----------



## mus1mus

Switching from intel to amd?. Hmm

Let's assume you have an i5 before.

Most probably, you will see some fps drops with single threaded optimised games. Until, you learn to OC the CPU to around 4.8 and up. Then the deficit will be smaller or nil.

With multithreaded games such as BF4 though, things will most likely favor the AMD. Due to the more number of threads it can handle.

If coming from an OCed i7, hmm.. FX at 5.0 will be on par at most to an 4770K at 4.5 or less..


----------



## darkelixa

Yep its an i5 4690. Yep the game that I play still only uses single core utilization unless thats changing in the xpac So it would be a bad choice to go back to the AMD side?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Yep its an i5 4690. Yep the game that I play still only uses single core utilization unless thats changing in the xpac So it would be a bad choice to go back to the AMD side?


So the CPU is not Overclockable?

Then, then 8350 might even be better if OC'ed..

My decision for going AMD was simple from the get-go.

AMD is cheaper, Unlocked, and boards are somewhat cheaper too. I have spent the excess on cooling. And of corz, GPU.

Harder on your part though. Unless you are building one from scratch, that pricing differences are way moar justifiable, AMD is a better choice over the i5.

I can only say, if you go for the FX, be ready to cash out on cooling. AIOs will be a good start. (no longer fascinated by air coolers)


----------



## darkelixa

Im going to re use my ram, ssd,second hard drive,psu, 780 and just put it all in a new case, going from matx to atx size as matx aint the best for air cooling.

So an air cooler like a noctua d14 is going to be no good?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Im going to re use my ram, ssd,second hard drive,psu, 780 and just put it all in a new case, going from matx to atx size as matx aint the best for air cooling.
> 
> So an air cooler like a noctua d14 is going to be no good?


A D14 would be my minimum tbh. lol

Good for up to 4.8ish GHz. Or up to 1.5Vcore. Whichever comes first.

TBH, I'd rather spend the cash for an unlocked i7 if I were you. But then, you have a notion of the board holding you back. So yeah..


----------



## darkelixa

Wow, so no other air cooler will be good enough for it for just gaming?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Wow, so no other air cooler will be good enough for it for just gaming?


Depending on the chip really. Some takes too little Vcore for a decent OC if you are lucky. (4.8ish) since these chips scale noticeably well at those clocks. Or like my chip that needs 1.625 Volts for 4.8 argh!.

We are looking at temps for these chips by the way..


----------



## darkelixa

UGGH So i have to get a cooler like a h100i? Was just going to run the amd 8350 at stock speeds for starters


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> UGGH So i have to get a cooler like a h100i? Was just going to run the amd 8350 at stock speeds for starters


Noctua d14 or H80i, they come out about the same. I'm on a H80i at 5.1 so they can work. It does depend on how you do in the AMD chip lottery if you want to overclock. Either would be fine at stock.


----------



## darkelixa

I do get a bit scared dipping my feet into water cooling incase it leaks onto my new cpu/780 gpu


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> I do get a bit scared dipping my feet into water cooling incase it leaks onto my new cpu/780 gpu


I put off water cooling for so long because of the same fears, water and electricity don't mix right? Do yourself a favor and do some research, if you take your time and set up your loop or loops carefully and correctly the chances of a leak are so minimal that the benefits of water cooling far out-way any risk of a leak. But make sure you do your research and there are lots of threads on here with a lot of very experienced water coolers that are more than happy to pass on their knowledge and answer questions. I found those in this thread especially helpful when I was getting my feet wet as it were:

*[Official] XSPC Rasa 750 RS/RX120/240/360 Kit Club*

Another great link to lost of pics for ideas and more awesome people with lots of great advice and info:

*OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery*

Not to mention when starting out a kit like this is a great place to start, they give you everything you need to cool your CPU and most can be expanded to include at least one GPU waterblock. I ran my fist loop for 2 years no leaks, I'm now rebuilding the loop to include a GPU block. So from someone that once thought the way you do, go for it the only thing you have to loose is a bunch of heat from your components


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I put off water cooling for so long because of the same fears, water and electricity don't mix right? Do yourself a favor and do some research, if you take your time and set up your loop or loops carefully and correctly the chances of a leak are so minimal that the benefits of water cooling far out-way any risk of a leak. But make sure you do your research and there are lots of threads on here with a lot of very experienced water coolers that are more than happy to pass on their knowledge and answer questions. I found those in this thread especially helpful when I was getting my feet wet as it were:
> 
> *[Official] XSPC Rasa 750 RS/RX120/240/360 Kit Club*
> 
> Not to mention when starting out a kit like this is a great place to start, they give you everything you need to cool your CPU and most can be expanded to include at least one GPU waterblock. I ran my fist loop for 2 years no leaks, I'm now rebuilding the loop to include a GPU block. So from someone that once thought the way you do, go for it the only thing you have to loose is a bunch of heat from your components


This^^^
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> I do get a bit scared dipping my feet into water cooling incase it leaks onto my new cpu/780 gpu


Naah, it's not too scary and all.. a leak will most likely be user error and stuff not getting enough preparation.

You'll just have to consider a few things like, fittings and tubing sizes. Once you get your self acquainted with such, it's pretty much a one-two step and natural.

Leak testing will be a thing for noobs once you have the knowledge and experience.

The fear will most likely be turned into frustration of spilling moar cash than needed if not planned properly. Or wanting better stuff for your build.










Starting with a decent kit will be best for a start. All stuff in one package. All things likely compatible to each other. And so on..


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> This^^^
> Naah, it's not too scary and all.. a leak will most likely be user error and stuff not getting enough preparation.
> 
> You'll just have to consider a few things like, fittings and tubing sizes. Once you get your self acquainted with such, it's pretty much a one-two step and natural.
> 
> Leak testing will be a thing for noobs once you have the knowledge and experience.
> 
> The fear will most likely be turned into frustration of spilling moar cash than needed if not planned properly. Or wanting better stuff for your build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting with a decent kit will be best for a start. All stuff in one package. All things likely compatible to each other. And so on..


^^^^^^^^^^
EXATCTLY


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Thinking of re buying an amd 8350 and a suitable mainboard again as I have had enough of my Intel cpu and board. Keep getting power errors in the event log when I have tried two psus so I have narrowed it down to the mainboard.
> 
> In Australia there is only really two mainboards that are really left for purchase, everything seems to be intel these days
> 
> I have the choice of either
> 
> 990fx rv2 sabertooth or
> 
> Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3-R4
> 
> Will the sabertooth be a better mainboard than the gigabyte and will the amd 8350 be a good enough cpu for MMO games, I mainly play world of warcraft these days and thats it lol


you will see a massive performance drop in WoW that game is incredibly intel bias. My 5Ghz 6300 gets pounded into the ground by my friends i5 in WoW, in bigger cities like orig and dalaran he gets nearly double my FPS and in larger raids he gets close to triple my FPS even though he only has a gtx 460. stock clocks its a slideshow. I can't say for sure about other MMO's though.

My personal advice is get a sabertooth z97.


----------



## Almin94

I'm beginner with this motherboard (SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0). What are the best ways and settings in bios to get max stable overclock and which will not harm motherboard? Thanks!


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Almin94*
> 
> I'm beginner with this motherboard (SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0). What are the best ways and settings in bios to get max stable overclock and which will not harm motherboard? Thanks!


Start by filling in the Rig builder so we can see your setup.
We need to know things like processor and cooling.
Mike


----------



## Benjiw

3 weeks in to ownership and i'm very happy I didn't replace my board with a UD5! 4.8ghz stable but temps go too high for my liking to push it futher.
my idle temps are 40c which is bothering me a lot at the moment but unsure what is causing it as I have a 120 SR1 black ice and a 240mm rad pumped by an EK DCP 2.2.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> 3 weeks in to ownership and i'm very happy I didn't replace my board with a UD5! 4.8ghz stable but temps go too high for my liking to push it futher.
> my idle temps are 40c which is bothering me a lot at the moment but unsure what is causing it as I have a 120 SR1 black ice and a 240mm rad pumped by an EK DCP 2.2.


idle temps mean very little in my experience. What voltage are you running it at?


----------



## slick2500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Almin94*
> 
> I'm beginner with this motherboard (SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0). What are the best ways and settings in bios to get max stable overclock and which will not harm motherboard? Thanks!


Start by reading this thread, if you are going to be overclocking make sure you have a good cooler.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard


----------



## slick2500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> 3 weeks in to ownership and i'm very happy I didn't replace my board with a UD5! 4.8ghz stable but temps go too high for my liking to push it futher.
> my idle temps are 40c which is bothering me a lot at the moment but unsure what is causing it as I have a 120 SR1 black ice and a 240mm rad pumped by an EK DCP 2.2.


Yeah those idle temps seem a bit high, my FX 6300 @ 4.8ghz @1.475 volts idles between 15 and 20* C, under prime 95 the temps do get up into the upper 50s though.
My rig is cooled by a Swiftech Apogee GTX, Swiftech MCR-220QP rad and a Swiftech MCP-655-B pump.

After looking at that EK pump the flow rate is pretty low only 400 liters per hour, idk if the flow rate of the pump will make that big of a difference but the MCP-655-B has a flow rate of almost 1200 liters per hour but it also costs about twice as much as the EK.

Are you cooling anything else in this loop? What water block are you using?


----------



## Almin94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> Start by filling in the Rig builder so we can see your setup.
> We need to know things like processor and cooling.
> Mike


Done.


----------



## darkelixa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> you will see a massive performance drop in WoW that game is incredibly intel bias. My 5Ghz 6300 gets pounded into the ground by my friends i5 in WoW, in bigger cities like orig and dalaran he gets nearly double my FPS and in larger raids he gets close to triple my FPS even though he only has a gtx 460. stock clocks its a slideshow. I can't say for sure about other MMO's though.
> 
> My personal advice is get a sabertooth z97.


I already have the z97 mainboard and thats the pc that gives me the issues, so looking at changing back to AMD but that really does suck if my performance is going to drop in half


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> I already have the z98 mainboard and thats the pc that gives me the issues, so looking at changing back to AMD but that really does suck if my performance is going to drop in half


I would RMA the MoBo then, trust me amd is not the way to go for games that are heavily single threaded such as WoW


----------



## darkelixa

Im not sure if it was the board or the psu that was the issue with the pc. I changed the psu to an older one that I had and still the same power errors so thinking of just replacing the whole board and cpu to something else, idk what thou. For intel, asus does not seem like a good choice, plus installing an intel cpu is a pain in the ass


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Im not sure if it was the board or the psu that was the issue with the pc. I changed the psu to an older one that I had and still the same power errors so thinking of just replacing the whole board and cpu to something else, idk what thou. *For intel, asus does not seem like a good choice, plus installing an intel cpu is a pain in the ass*


not sure why you claimed these.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> 3 weeks in to ownership and i'm very happy I didn't replace my board with a UD5! 4.8ghz stable but temps go too high for my liking to push it futher.
> my idle temps are 40c which is bothering me a lot at the moment but unsure what is causing it as I have a 120 SR1 black ice and a 240mm rad pumped by an EK DCP 2.2.


Mount?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slick2500*
> 
> Yeah those idle temps seem a bit high, my FX 6300 @ 4.8ghz @1.475 volts idles between 15 and 20* C, under prime 95 the temps do get up into the upper 50s though.
> My rig is cooled by a Swiftech Apogee GTX, Swiftech MCR-220QP rad and a Swiftech MCP-655-B pump.
> 
> After looking at that EK pump the flow rate is pretty low only 400 liters per hour, idk if the flow rate of the pump will make that big of a difference but the MCP-655-B has a flow rate of almost 1200 liters per hour but it also costs about twice as much as the EK.
> 
> Are you cooling anything else in this loop? What water block are you using?


Idle temps does not relate to something here. CPU uses algorithm not sensors.

Load temps are quite normal on your end though. But still hot for the voltage.


----------



## darkelixa

Why?

My Asus Gryphon gives me the problems with shutdown, never had this error with a Gigabyte board ( on intel side) So I claimed asus not being a good choice on there side as alot of people are having issues with the latest Nvidia drivers and boot up with windows 8.1 giving black screens and all sorts of issues ( seems to be narrowed down to Asus problem)

And with the installation with the cpu I find it alot easier to have the pins on the cpu rather than the socket as they just pop in pretty much with no downward force when with the Intel installation im always scared ill drop the cpu into the socket and bent some of them tiny pins


----------



## Mega Man

mine works flawlessly ( 4790 + MVIi ) and 3930k+RIVBE

granted i dont use nvidia....


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Why?
> 
> My Asus Gryphon gives me the problems with shutdown, never had this error with a Gigabyte board ( on intel side) So I claimed asus not being a good choice on there side as alot of people are having issues with the latest Nvidia drivers and boot up with windows 8.1 giving black screens and all sorts of issues ( seems to be narrowed down to Asus problem)
> 
> And with the installation with the cpu I find it alot easier to have the pins on the cpu rather than the socket as they just pop in pretty much with no downward force when with the Intel installation im always scared ill drop the cpu into the socket and bent some of them tiny pins


what do you mean power errors?, like random shutdowns or just errors? believe me those pins aren't as easy to bend as you think lol actually in my experience amd CPU's are alot more delicate than intel purely because the pins bend alot easier than the LGA ones and once they are bent good luck bending hem back without breaking them off.


----------



## darkelixa

Problems in the event viewer showing that the pc doesnt shut down properly and it also takes at least 15 seconds after the screens go black then it eventually shuts down. Tried new psu, and a different gpu, so narrowed it to the cpu/mainboard


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slick2500*
> 
> Yeah those idle temps seem a bit high, my FX 6300 @ 4.8ghz @1.475 volts idles between 15 and 20* C, under prime 95 the temps do get up into the upper 50s though.
> My rig is cooled by a Swiftech Apogee GTX, Swiftech MCR-220QP rad and a Swiftech MCP-655-B pump.
> 
> After looking at that EK pump the flow rate is pretty low only 400 liters per hour, idk if the flow rate of the pump will make that big of a difference but the MCP-655-B has a flow rate of almost 1200 liters per hour but it also costs about twice as much as the EK.
> 
> Are you cooling anything else in this loop? What water block are you using?


Just the CPU and with this block:


http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/cpu-blocks/supreme-ltx/ek-supreme-ltx-amd-nickel-csq.html


----------



## slick2500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> not sure why you claimed these.
> Mount?
> Idle temps does not relate to something here. CPU uses algorithm not sensors.
> 
> Load temps are quite normal on your end though. But still hot for the voltage.


Yeah but that is a stupid high idle temp even for an overlocked AMD cpu. When I was on air at 4.5ghz my cpu idle temp was in the mid 20s. But then again he is using a Gigabyte board my UD3 would idle at like 36* even at stock clocks with an aftermarket cooler.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slick2500*
> 
> Yeah but that is a stupid high idle temp even for an overlocked AMD cpu. When I was on air at 4.5ghz my cpu idle temp was in the mid 20s. But then again he is using a Gigabyte board my UD3 would idle at like 36* even at stock clocks with an aftermarket cooler.


Ok so the answer is this...

I just zip tied 2 80mm fans to my VRM heatsink, ran a stress test and no my idles are down 7c! not only that but the VRM is down by 20c+. I'm just.... wow.... The fans from my rads must have been sucking all the air from my 210mm away before it even hit the VRM.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Ok so the answer is this...
> 
> I just zip tied 2 80mm fans to my VRM heatsink, ran a stress test and no my idles are down 7c! not only that but the VRM is down by 20c+. I'm just.... wow.... The fans from my rads must have been sucking all the air from my 210mm away before it even hit the VRM.


You are looking at the socket temps. I am willing to bet.. Not Core Temps.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You are looking at the socket temps. I am willing to bet.. Not Core Temps.


I was more concerned about socket temp tbh but even the actual core temps have gone down significantly also.


----------



## Benjiw

Is there anyway to set all the fans up to automatically adjust depending on temp? More importantly the VRM temp? or is it all CPU dependant when using the motherboard for automatic settings?


----------



## Jaimelmiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Is there anyway to set all the fans up to automatically adjust depending on temp? More importantly the VRM temp? or is it all CPU dependant when using the motherboard for automatic settings?


You should be able control the fans you plug into the fan headers by using your bios. Check your Motherboard manuel. Pages 4-5 to 4-7.


----------



## slick2500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Ok so the answer is this...
> 
> I just zip tied 2 80mm fans to my VRM heatsink, ran a stress test and no my idles are down 7c! not only that but the VRM is down by 20c+. I'm just.... wow.... The fans from my rads must have been sucking all the air from my 210mm away before it even hit the VRM.


Gigabyte seems to have lots of issues with the VRMs overheating on their boards, let's not forget the Rev 3 UD3s that started on fire. My Sabertooths VRMs without a fan runs 20* cooler over clocked than my UD3 did stock. Been dealing with Gigabyte rma since the end of July with that board......


----------



## WeirdHarold

Okay, I have the Rev. 1.0 board and I've never updated the Bios and I'm still running the 1100T that I plopped in this bad boy. Now I want to upgrade my CPU, which means I need to update my Bios. So my questions are : What is the easiest way to update the Bios on this board?
Also on the Asus website 1604 is the newest driver for the R1.0 board - If updated to this driver what is the best FX-CPU known to work on the R1.0 board?

Thanks in advance for the help


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Okay, I have the Rev. 1.0 board and I've never updated the Bios and I'm still running the 1100T that I plopped in this bad boy. Now I want to upgrade my CPU, which means I need to update my Bios. So my questions is : What is the easiest way to update the Bios on this board?
> 
> Thanks in advance for the help


EZ Flash from the BIOS.

You will need:

a USB stick formatted to FAT32.
Latest BIOS for the Board. Download from ASUS.

At the BIOS, hover to EZ Flash with the USB stick plugged in to a USB 2.0 port. USB 3.0 port might work.

Rest will be as easy following the instruction..


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> EZ Flash from the BIOS.
> 
> You will need:
> 
> a USB stick formatted to FAT32.
> Latest BIOS for the Board. Download from ASUS.
> 
> At the BIOS, hover to EZ Flash with the USB stick plugged in to a USB 2.0 port. USB 3.0 port might work.
> 
> Rest will be as easy following the instruction..


Okay, so need to buy a small cheap flash drive, format to FAT32 and put the latest Bios file on it. Then reboot and go into the Bios, select EZ-Flash from there and just follow the instructions - do I have that correct?

Again Thanks


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Okay, so need to buy a small cheap flash drive, format to FAT32 and put the latest Bios file on it. Then reboot and go into the Bios, select EZ-Flash from there and just follow the instructions - do I have that correct?
> 
> Again Thanks


Pretty much..


----------



## Cartel

You dont need a flash drive.
Just extract it to the root of C: or D: then reboot and go into the bios and use the EZ flash.
It reads NTFS just fine.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slick2500*
> 
> Gigabyte seems to have lots of issues with the VRMs overheating on their boards, let's not forget the Rev 3 UD3s that started on fire. My Sabertooths VRMs without a fan runs 20* cooler over clocked than my UD3 did stock. Been dealing with Gigabyte rma since the end of July with that board......


I'm confused, do you think I have the UD5 still due to my rig builder? I need to change that lol my board is the sabre R2


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cartel*
> 
> You dont need a flash drive.
> Just extract it to the root of C: or D: then reboot and go into the bios and use the EZ flash.
> It reads NTFS just fine.


Proof?


----------



## Benjiw

Hey my bus speed is bouncing quite a bit, is there something I've overlooked? it's making my clock speed bounce up and down too so pushes it over a set clock.


----------



## slick2500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I'm confused, do you think I have the UD5 still due to my rig builder? I need to change that lol my board is the sabre R2


Oh lol.

Then yeah those temps are kind of odd. My vrm with an old AMD cpu fan zip tied on it runs at about 45* C under prime 95.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slick2500*
> 
> Oh lol.
> 
> Then yeah those temps are kind of odd. My vrm with an old AMD cpu fan zip tied on it runs at about 45* C under prime 95.


What makes the temps run up on the VRM then? My LLC is on extreme and when my pc is at idle my VCORE1 sensor reads 39c?
I strapped 2 fans to my vrm heatsink from the cpu block and have just strapped my 2x 140mm phanteks fans from my old twin tower cooler to the wire mesh and ditched the big 210mm LED fan that comes with the Corsair 500R.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Okay, I have the Rev. 1.0 board and I've never updated the Bios and I'm still running the 1100T that I plopped in this bad boy. Now I want to upgrade my CPU, which means I need to update my Bios. So my questions are : What is the easiest way to update the Bios on this board?
> Also on the Asus website 1604 is the newest driver for the R1.0 board - If updated to this driver what is the best FX-CPU known to work on the R1.0 board?
> 
> Thanks in advance for the help


1 all fx will work
2 sell me your 1100t !


----------



## Q5Grafx

i remember the days of my sabertooth running at below 35c and 45c under prime 95. havent seen those temps since my 3rd 78o gtx install. cards are too close to cool effectively and i have 13 fans and cpu under water.







see Monster


----------



## Q5Grafx

next for this machine is im actually gonna downsize it and scavange parts for the next build. gonna put a phenom2x4 965 in it that i have layining around unused and leave 1 780, 1 ssd and the velociraptor and build a new machine with 3 780s on a crosshair v formula z with 2 1 gig 850 pro ssd,s in raid completly under water in a caselabe tx10. id like to find a mobo that supports 128gigs ram as i have that laying around too but.....not any amd based mobos i know of that support 16 8 gig sticks of ecc and 3 way sli except a server but then i would have to serve the cards.


----------



## Benjiw

How many volts is too much for the nb? I set my NB to 2.8ghz and struggling to get it stable but obviously I don't want to go mental on the volts.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> How many volts is too much for the nb? I set my NB to 2.8ghz and struggling to get it stable but obviously I don't want to go mental on the volts.


Mega reported killing a chip's CPU-NB at 1.7 Volts.. 1.35 should be enough for 2600.

Why would you need it to 2800?. 2600 MHz is enough to give a 2400 RAM proper workouts. Getting past that proves to be a harder job stability-wise with minimal improvements on RAM/Cache performance..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> How many volts is too much for the nb? I set my NB to 2.8ghz and struggling to get it stable but obviously I don't want to go mental on the volts.


2800 in my experience is extremely rare to be able to get stable
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> How many volts is too much for the nb? I set my NB to 2.8ghz and struggling to get it stable but obviously I don't want to go mental on the volts.
> 
> 
> 
> Mega reported killing a chip's CPU-NB at 1.7 Volts.. 1.35 should be enough for 2600.
> 
> Why would you need it to 2800?. 2600 MHz is enough to give a 2400 RAM proper workouts. Getting past that proves to be a harder job stability-wise with minimal improvements on RAM/Cache performance..
Click to expand...

Mostly accurate it was "around" there I personally would not go that high 24/7


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 2800 in my experience is extremely rare to be able to get stable
> Mostly accurate it was "around" there I personally would not go that high 24/7


what were you going for there 3200?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 all fx will work
> 2 sell me your 1100t !


Okay, on 1 - Even the new FX's like the 8370E?

As for 2 - I haven't made up my mind on the upgrade yet, there are a few other parts that I might go for first.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Okay, on 1 - Even the new FX's like the 8370E?
> 
> As for 2 - I haven't made up my mind on the upgrade yet, there are a few other parts that I might go for first.


on 1 yes! a 8370e is still the same chip just differently binned


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Okay, on 1 - Even the new FX's like the 8370E?
> 
> As for 2 - I haven't made up my mind on the upgrade yet, there are a few other parts that I might go for first.
> 
> 
> 
> on 1 yes! a 8370e is still the same chip just differently binned
Click to expand...

and just lower wattage
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 2800 in my experience is extremely rare to be able to get stable
> Mostly accurate it was "around" there I personally would not go that high 24/7
> 
> 
> 
> what were you going for there 3200?
Click to expand...

just suicide runs in general


----------



## warpuck

Are you curious as to why we buy AMD ? Here is a list of CPUs that fit a sabertooth

http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/mb-ASUS/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R2.0.html

I think there is 139 in that list

http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/mb-ASUS/SABERTOOTH_990FX.html

That is why I finally chose AMD. My 8350 is in 890FX board. I have decided to purchase a Crosshair V -Z to replace the Sabertooth R1. May it rest in pieces.


----------



## Mega Man

who is that directed at ?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> on 1 yes! a 8370e is still the same chip just differently binned


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and just lower wattage
> just suicide runs in general


Thank you both


----------



## Cartel

I run 2600 NB with stock volts here.
I did bump the cpu/NB volts + .01 just to be sure but for 2 years it was stock volts.


----------



## Almin94

Which Bios for overclocking (R2.0 version of Sabertooth)? With old motherboard (ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3) I can get validation of 5.0GHz with 1.46V, but with this new much better Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 can't get the same.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cartel*
> 
> I run 2600 NB with stock volts here.
> I did bump the cpu/NB volts + .01 just to be sure but for 2 years it was stock volts.


I'm having stability problems with overclocking my NB which I didn't have before on the UD5, I keep all settings on auto etc apart from the NB voltages and bump them up a little but I get random crashes every now and again, I can't force it to crash and I test with IBT, should I now move to Prime 95 and blend to test out the ram config etc?
Sorry again for asking what might seem silly to you guys but I'm still learning, my 4.8ghz oc is stable but as soon as I start clocking the NB and HT Link it starts going weird.


----------



## Motokiume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Okay, I have the Rev. 1.0 board and I've never updated the Bios and I'm still running the 1100T that I plopped in this bad boy. Now I want to upgrade my CPU, which means I need to update my Bios. So my questions are : What is the easiest way to update the Bios on this board?
> Also on the Asus website 1604 is the newest driver for the R1.0 board - If updated to this driver what is the best FX-CPU known to work on the R1.0 board?
> 
> Thanks in advance for the help


The easiest way to update the BIOS is with a USB memory stick. Download the 1604 BIOS and put it on a memory stick. Start the computer and go into the BIOS and there is an option within the BIOS called _ASUS EZ Flash utility_ that will allow you to easily update the BIOS.

I also have a R1.0 board with a 6300 processor on BIOS 1604. I was thinking of getting an 8370, however I sent an email to ASUS and they replied that the highest spec that the R1.0 board will take is an 8350.
Personally I think that the 8370 should work, but I am still searching for evidence from someone who has actually done it.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I'm having stability problems with overclocking my NB which I didn't have before on the UD5, I keep all settings on auto etc apart from the NB voltages and bump them up a little but I get random crashes every now and again, I can't force it to crash and I test with IBT, should I now move to Prime 95 and blend to test out the ram config etc?
> Sorry again for asking what might seem silly to you guys but I'm still learning, my 4.8ghz oc is stable but as soon as I start clocking the NB and HT Link it starts going weird.


What clock are you trying to run it at? Also try changing the phase control to extreme.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Motokiume*
> 
> The easiest way to update the BIOS is with a USB memory stick. Download the 1604 BIOS and put it on a memory stick. Start the computer and go into the BIOS and there is an option within the BIOS called _ASUS EZ Flash utility_ that will allow you to easily update the BIOS.
> 
> I also have a R1.0 board with a 6300 processor on BIOS 1604. I was thinking of getting an 8370, however I sent an email to ASUS and they replied that the highest spec that the R1.0 board will take is an 8350.
> Personally I think that the 8370 should work, but I am still searching for evidence from someone who has actually done it.


that person doesn't know what they are taking about 8370 has lower power draw from better binning lol even if it had quite a bit higher it would likely just limit your overclock


----------



## Motokiume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that person doesn't know what they are taking about 8370 has lower power draw from better binning lol even if it had quite a bit higher it would likely just limit your overclock


Thanks for the reply, it was ASUS support, so I imagine that most of them just read from a script.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> What clock are you trying to run it at? Also try changing the phase control to extreme.


2.6 NB and 2.8 HT Link and what is phase control? what does it do etc?

Also has anyone set up speed fan for their sabretooth board? if so how did you do it? I'd like to set my fans up automatically instead of manually with a fan controller.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> 2.6 NB and 2.8 HT Link and what is phase control? what does it do etc?
> 
> Also has anyone set up speed fan for their sabretooth board? if so how did you do it? I'd like to set my fans up automatically instead of manually with a fan controller.


in my experience 2800 is very difficult to get stable id back down to 2600 if i were you. phase control controls how many phases the CPU & CPU/NB can use, setting it to extreme uses all phases 8+2 and that makes a difference with high OC's


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> in my experience 2800 is very difficult to get stable id back down to 2600 if i were you. phase control controls how many phases the CPU & CPU/NB can use, setting it to extreme uses all phases 8+2 and that makes a difference with high OC's


On my UD5 I got those clocks stable but my UD5 fried itself with my CPU due to heat i'm guessing. I'll try phase extreme then keep playing with my clocks til I can make it all stable again, next on my list is OCing my ram but they are different makes.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cartel*
> 
> I run 2600 NB with stock volts here.
> I did bump the cpu/NB volts + .01 just to be sure but for 2 years it was stock volts.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having stability problems with overclocking my NB which I didn't have before on the UD5, I keep all settings on auto etc apart from the NB voltages and bump them up a little but I get random crashes every now and again, I can't force it to crash and I test with IBT, should I now move to Prime 95 and blend to test out the ram config etc?
> Sorry again for asking what might seem silly to you guys but I'm still learning, my 4.8ghz oc is stable but as soon as I start clocking the NB and HT Link it starts going weird.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> What clock are you trying to run it at? Also try changing the phase control to extreme.
> 
> 
> 
> 2.6 NB and 2.8 HT Link and what is phase control? what does it do etc?
> 
> Also has anyone set up speed fan for their sabretooth board? if so how did you do it? I'd like to set my fans up automatically instead of manually with a fan controller.
Click to expand...

please note ud5 does not equal asus...

many more things to change please post screens of your bios

speedfan someone did. personally i recommend a AQ6 i know they are pricy but set it and forget it, best thing EVER air or water ! never will build another without it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> 2.6 NB and 2.8 HT Link and what is phase control? what does it do etc?
> 
> Also has anyone set up speed fan for their sabretooth board? if so how did you do it? I'd like to set my fans up automatically instead of manually with a fan controller.
> 
> 
> 
> in my experience 2800 is very difficult to get stable id back down to 2600 if i were you. phase control controls how many phases the CPU & CPU/NB can use, setting it to extreme uses all phases 8+2 and that makes a difference with high OC's
Click to expand...

no it isnt most chips can do 3k HT on stock volts,

i do 3900 but it isnt needed, fair warning hardest thing to test is HT best thing i have found are encoders

but more importantly why do you want to oc HT ?


----------



## slick2500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> What makes the temps run up on the VRM then? My LLC is on extreme and when my pc is at idle my VCORE1 sensor reads 39c?
> I strapped 2 fans to my vrm heatsink from the cpu block and have just strapped my 2x 140mm phanteks fans from my old twin tower cooler to the wire mesh and ditched the big 210mm LED fan that comes with the Corsair 500R.


Let me double check my temps but I am sure that is what they were at. I haven't been able to check my vrm temps lately because HWINFO keeps giving me a bsod.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> please note ud5 does not equal asus...
> 
> many more things to change please post screens of your bios
> 
> speedfan someone did. personally i recommend a AQ6 i know they are pricy but set it and forget it, best thing EVER air or water ! never will build another without it
> no it isnt most chips can do 3k HT on stock volts,
> 
> i do 3900 but it isnt needed, fair warning hardest thing to test is HT best thing i have found are encoders
> 
> but more importantly why do you want to oc HT ?


i can't even get past 2600 without constant BSOD even with LLC set to extreme maybe im just unlucky


----------



## Mega Man

are you sure this is HT and not CPU/NB ?

please note there is no LLC for HT nor does LLC affect HT ocing in my experience

soon i will make a thread i think with basic settings for digi on AMD platform


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> are you sure this is HT and not CPU/NB ?
> 
> please note there is no LLC for HT nor does LLC affect HT ocing in my experience
> 
> soon i will make a thread i think with basic settings for digi on AMD platform


This is a great idea... im still unsure what a few of them even do...


----------



## Mega Man

post bios screens please


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Almin94*
> 
> Which Bios for overclocking (R2.0 version of Sabertooth)? With old motherboard (ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3) I can get validation of 5.0GHz with 1.46V, but with this new much better Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 can't get the same.


what are you on?


----------



## hucklebuck

Can the ASUS Sabertooth 990 FX R2.0 handle the FX 9590 processor? I have a custom loop.


----------



## Cartel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I'm having stability problems with overclocking my NB which I didn't have before on the UD5, I keep all settings on auto etc apart from the NB voltages and bump them up a little but I get random crashes every now and again, I can't force it to crash and I test with IBT, should I now move to Prime 95 and blend to test out the ram config etc?
> Sorry again for asking what might seem silly to you guys but I'm still learning, my 4.8ghz oc is stable but as soon as I start clocking the NB and HT Link it starts going weird.


Make sure your ram ecc isnt enabled as it is by default for some reason.
Disable cpu and pci spread spetrum

I always keep my HT at stock frequency as raising it decreases performance


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Can the ASUS Sabertooth 990 FX R2.0 handle the FX 9590 processor? I have a custom loop.


easily it has 8+2 phase so even 220W CPU shouldn't be an issue


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Can the ASUS Sabertooth 990 FX R2.0 handle the FX 9590 processor? I have a custom loop.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> easily it has 8+2 phase so even 220W CPU shouldn't be an issue
Click to expand...

^this, and

If it can handle my 8350 @ 5.1Ghz on 1.7v then it can handle the 9590,


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Can the ASUS Sabertooth 990 FX R2.0 handle the FX 9590 processor? I have a custom loop.


Yes it can see my sig and my rig. FX9590 on Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2 . Just watch your Power supply the 220W is not a lie.


----------



## hucklebuck

Reason I'm thinking this is I got an 8320 and I can only get 4800 mhz stable. For 4900 I'm up to 1.632v and it still fails, I can't go any higher cause my cooling can't handle anymore.









I'm just not sure if it's worth getting......But I want it.


----------



## hucklebuck

Are there any other settings that can help me get a higher OC from this chip. I just have all my cpu digi settings on max with (LLC is ultra high) offset voltage. Everything else is stock.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Are there any other settings that can help me get a higher OC from this chip. I just have all my cpu digi settings on max with (LLC is ultra high) offset voltage. Everything else is stock.


what are your digi options set to?


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Can the ASUS Sabertooth 990 FX R2.0 handle the FX 9590 processor? I have a custom loop.


just to add to the others...yes it can handle it quite well... I have one in mine and no problems with the board... but OC'ing this thing is a power nightmare... at 5.2ghz stress testing on mine pulls about 700 watts at the plug (total system power, not just the computer)... total system power at an idle is around 280 to give you an idea of what it can pull... I do run mine over 5ghz 24/7... with no problems... stays nice and cool on good cooling too....

in the first post of this thread you can see what volts it takes to get mine stable at 5.022 ghz... bit lower than my old 8350 took... by a lot. http://www.overclock.net/t/1519033/5-ghz-24-7-oc-club


----------



## hucklebuck

Here are some bios screenshots.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Here are some bios screenshots.


Oh one other thing. Don't know what kind of waterloop you have but your about ready to dump some serious wattage into it. I have serious rads and double D5 pumps and idel at 43C across the board. That's with 3 R9 290Xs also though.


----------



## Almin94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> what are you on?


Latest 2501. I tried 2301, same thing...


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> please note ud5 does not equal asus...
> 
> many more things to change please post screens of your bios
> 
> speedfan someone did. personally i recommend a AQ6 i know they are pricy but set it and forget it, best thing EVER air or water ! never will build another without it
> no it isnt most chips can do 3k HT on stock volts,
> 
> i do 3900 but it isnt needed, fair warning hardest thing to test is HT best thing i have found are encoders
> 
> but more importantly why do you want to oc HT ?


I just want to squeeze as much performance as I can out of what I have lol, Is overclocking them pointless?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Here are some bios screenshots.


WOW, those are some serious settings! All I did to get my 4.85 stable was set LLC to extreme and set my voltage up for the CPU in small increments as I pumped up both my multiplier and my bus speeds. Why have you got all these settings?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Are there any other settings that can help me get a higher OC from this chip. I just have all my cpu digi settings on max with (LLC is ultra high) offset voltage. Everything else is stock.


do you have active cooling of some sort on your VRM and NB
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Here are some bios screenshots.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Cpu/NB +0.1v
i recommend setting Dram volts 2 notches up
Cpu/nb LLC to high
Cpu/nb power response control ultra fast
cpu/nb current capability +130% ( or w.e. max is )
( see first comment above ) if not please dont do these settings until you have at least a fan on them !
NB +0.1v

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> please note ud5 does not equal asus...
> 
> many more things to change please post screens of your bios
> 
> speedfan someone did. personally i recommend a AQ6 i know they are pricy but set it and forget it, best thing EVER air or water ! never will build another without it
> no it isnt most chips can do 3k HT on stock volts,
> 
> i do 3900 but it isnt needed, fair warning hardest thing to test is HT best thing i have found are encoders
> 
> but more importantly why do you want to oc HT ?
> 
> 
> 
> I just want to squeeze as much performance as I can out of what I have lol, Is overclocking them pointless?
Click to expand...

generally speaking, yes. HT is basically ( i did say basically ) PCIE bandwidth, unless pushing 3+ cards ( GPUs ) not too useful

still need bios screens @


----------



## Deadboy90

I dont think I will be buying another Sabertooth board after this one. I have had the above issue through 2 seprate motherboard bought months apart and a third that was DOA. I have complained about this before but this is has become a daily occurence whenever I turn my computer on for the day. My previous motherboard boots fine but this one has gotten to the point wbere im ready to chuck it out the window.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deadboy90*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont think I will be buying another Sabertooth board after this one. I have had the above issue through 2 seprate motherboard bought months apart and a third that was DOA. I have complained about this before but this is has become a daily occurence whenever I turn my computer on for the day. My previous motherboard boots fine but this one has gotten to the point wbere im ready to chuck it out the window.


Have you tried reflashing bios


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I had something like that happen a couple times on various motherboards... turned out to be a usb detection problem with one of my usb devices once.... disabled a few bits in the bios and no more hangs there... also had a hdd issue cause that a couple times... both times was a bios error and a flash solved it.... really could be anything though...bad board... or some dumb part being a jerk....


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> WOW, those are some serious settings! All I did to get my 4.85 stable was set LLC to extreme and set my voltage up for the CPU in small increments as I pumped up both my multiplier and my bus speeds. Why have you got all these settings?


I started out at stock and just bumped up my settings one notch at a time, it took time but this is as far as I can get.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> do you have active cooling of some sort on your VRM and NB
> Cpu/NB +0.1v
> i recommend setting Dram volts 2 notches up
> Cpu/nb LLC to high
> Cpu/nb power response control ultra fast
> cpu/nb current capability +130% ( or w.e. max is )
> ( see first comment above ) if not please dont do these settings until you have at least a fan on them !
> NB +0.1v
> generally speaking, yes. HT is basically ( i did say basically ) PCIE bandwidth, unless pushing 3+ cards ( GPUs ) not too useful
> 
> still need bios screens @


I put the fan that I got with my processor on the vrm's, but that's all.
No fan on the NB. Should I get one for it?


----------



## Mega Man

should be ok, it moves enough air to cool it as well
esp + 4.7 cpu/nb and nb need at least a 0.1v bump


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deadboy90*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont think I will be buying another Sabertooth board after this one. I have had the above issue through 2 seprate motherboard bought months apart and a third that was DOA. I have complained about this before but this is has become a daily occurence whenever I turn my computer on for the day. My previous motherboard boots fine but this one has gotten to the point wbere im ready to chuck it out the window.


I'll just leave this here....


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> I started out at stock and just bumped up my settings one notch at a time, it took time but this is as far as I can get.
> I put the fan that I got with my processor on the vrm's, but that's all.
> No fan on the NB. Should I get one for it?


I have 2 AMD 80mm fans that came with the heat sinks for my phenom x3 and my 8350 on my VRM they are loud and do my head in so I'll be doing this next :-

http://www.overclock.net/t/1468642/how-to-watercool-the-asus-990fx-sabertooth-rev2-0-vrms-and-nb


----------



## darkelixa

Was going to buy a Asus sabertooth 990fx rv2 and amd 8350 again but if you are having issues with your board like that it makes me a bit iffy and scared to be honest


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I have 2 AMD 80mm fans that came with the heat sinks for my phenom x3 and my 8350 on my VRM they are loud and do my head in so I'll be doing this next :-
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1468642/how-to-watercool-the-asus-990fx-sabertooth-rev2-0-vrms-and-nb


I was considering it myself.

I have a few questions about it though to anyone in this thread.

I have a my processor under water along with a full coverage block for my 7950. Will I still be able to put a NB and VRM block in the loop also with just a single D5 pump?

Also it looks like my video card may be in the way with the NB waterblock so I may have to move my video card to another slot. Would that decrease performance much? I really don't know if it will be in the way cause I don't have the block yet.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> I was considering it myself.
> 
> I have a few questions about it though to anyone in this thread.
> 
> I have a my processor under water along with a full coverage block for my 7950. Will I still be able to put a NB and VRM block in the loop also with just a single D5 pump?
> 
> Also it looks like my video card may be in the way with the NB waterblock so I may have to move my video card to another slot. Would that decrease performance much? I really don't know if it will be in the way cause I don't have the block yet.


i don't know about the water cooling but if you put it in the second brown pci-e slot it will still be 16x


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> I was considering it myself.
> 
> I have a few questions about it though to anyone in this thread.
> 
> I have a my processor under water along with a full coverage block for my 7950. Will I still be able to put a NB and VRM block in the loop also with just a single D5 pump?
> 
> Also it looks like my video card may be in the way with the NB waterblock so I may have to move my video card to another slot. Would that decrease performance much? I really don't know if it will be in the way cause I don't have the block yet.


It wouldn't get in the way, the card doesn't go above the plastic slot if you think about it? Unless you have an really thick back plate I wouldn't worry about it, the modder who started that thread and several others still have their first slots populated. Also you have a D5, isn't it rated at 1200 lp/h? I'm pretty sure you will be ok with a single pump man, you keep asking if you need another pump and to be honest with you, unless you plumbed in another 2/3 cards then you should consider another D5 from all the research I've been looking into considering pumps, my 2.2 DCP from EK could do with being replaced from what I've found.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Was going to buy a Asus sabertooth 990fx rv2 and amd 8350 again but if you are having issues with your board like that it makes me a bit iffy and scared to be honest


If you're refering to the guy with boot up problems then it could be a faulty part other than his boards giving a false diagnosis. I know of one person who got a sabretooth board and it failed due to boot up problems but he just got it replaced under warranty and he was golden. To be perfectly honest with you if you want the best of the best then buy the ASUS ROG extreme V or whatever but I'm incredibly happy with my Sabretooth coming from a Gigabyte UD5.


----------



## Deadboy90

I gotta say i dont think i will be buying another Sabertooth motherboard. Since i got it I have had boot issues almost daily with it. I have complained about these before but its getting worse. Before This issue:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Have you tried reflashing bios


Not on this one but it didnt work on the last one. Ill give it one more shot.


----------



## zila

Make sure you set it to default before doing the flash. Please let us know what happens. I'm curious as to what is causing this problem for you.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deadboy90*
> 
> I gotta say i dont think i will be buying another Sabertooth motherboard. Since i got it I have had boot issues almost daily with it. I have complained about these before but its getting worse. Before This issue:
> Not on this one but it didnt work on the last one. Ill give it one more shot.


Either you are incredibly unlucky or something in your rig is failing, I'd be plugging in parts into a known good build/board and trying to find out what is going on.


----------



## Cartel

I just switched my CPU\NB voltage to auto and it defaults to 1.35V with 2600NB and 1.175V if I put the NB back to 2000.
So it seems the sabertooth v1 auto volts to match higher frequencies...
I never noticed tis because after a clear cmos I set everything at the same time but if you go 2600 then reboot it auto's to 1.35V.
All this time I was under volting it...


----------



## Mega Man

or overvolting, and then setting to a lower value for ~ 2600 cpu/nb you should need ~ 1.2-1.3v

edited due to auto correct


----------



## Cartel

I never over volted because I only upped it 1 click to1.10625V
I'm not sure I like 1.35V now....I'll keep an eye on my temps I guess.


----------



## Mord

This is my Sabertooth


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cartel*
> 
> I never over volted because I only upped it 1 click to1.10625V
> I'm not sure I like 1.35V now....I'll keep an eye on my temps I guess.


let me help you.
asus on some bios ups CPU/NB volts to 1.4, this is both unnecessary and creates a TON of heat.

so as i said most chips can do 2600 @ 1.2-1.3v

1.1v (~) is stock for CPU/NB hence you over volted


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> let me help you.
> *asus on some bios ups CPU/NB volts to 1.4, this is both unnecessary and creates a TON of heat.*
> 
> so as i said most chips can do 2600 @ 1.2-1.3v
> 
> 1.1v (~) is stock for CPU/NB hence you over volted










it does?, why?


----------



## Almin94

Best way to test overclock stability on FX 8320/8350? IBT/Linx or OCCT or Prime95?

Anyone with Noctua NH-D14 to share info about overclocking and temperatures?


----------



## Almin94

Passed 20 runs in IBT (all memory) without errors. Now I decide to run Prime95 and it crashed after two minutes.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Almin94*
> 
> Passed 20 runs in IBT (all memory) without errors. Now I decide to run Prime95 and it crashed after two minutes.


Heh... That's why it's a good idea to always use Prime for final confirmation. IBT is quick. 99% of the times, at Very High it will be stable even in Prime. But 1% it won't... Prime is slow, but relentless.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> let me help you.
> *asus on some bios ups CPU/NB volts to 1.4, this is both unnecessary and creates a TON of heat.*
> 
> so as i said most chips can do 2600 @ 1.2-1.3v
> 
> 1.1v (~) is stock for CPU/NB hence you over volted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it does?, why?
Click to expand...

I don't work for asus. So no ideas.


----------



## Benjiw

URGH!!! I cant get my NB stable lmao, not sure how to monitor volts etc to keep it stable, any tips?

What's the best way to share my BIOS?


----------



## Mega Man

put flash drive formatted in fat32 into usb _*2.0*_ port

press f12

rinse and repeat for all important bios screens !


----------



## Cartel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> URGH!!! I cant get my NB stable lmao, not sure how to monitor volts etc to keep it stable, any tips?
> 
> What's the best way to share my BIOS?


Just curious, do you have corsair and gskill ram?
Have you run memtest86?

Do you have ecc disabled?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-amd-owners-club/990#post_15370182









Also this board defaults to 1T and it should be 2T not sure if R2.0 does though


----------



## Almin94

Can someone explain me this option in bios - Power response control . It should add more heat to VRM and are there benefits of that? THANKS.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Almin94*
> 
> Can someone explain me this option in bios - Power response control . It should add more heat to VRM and are there benefits of that? THANKS.


Higher frequency tends to give more heat to VRMs as they get to ON State more often per Second.

Benefits, if you can observe the Vcore for example, at right frequency, will produce a cleaner graph of the output or Vcore Voltages. Lesser swings or minimal at best. And could help stabilize a CPU on the borderline of frequency and Vcore (if a higher Vcore value will prove to be hotter for the CPU, and a notch lower would cause it to crash because of the swings)

Although I should mention that Vcore usually swings by about +-0.025 Volts from the normal value on these motherboards. So yeah.

That is just basing on my testing though. 0.025V equates to about 2C degrees. And to come out with a flat Vcore, no swings under load, requires a lot of testing on the frequencies, Vcore values at the BIOS and all.

To cut it short, Higher Frequency response = Moar heat to the VRMs, flatter, cleaner Vcore, and might be more beneficial on high to heavy OC.

Is it worth to experiment, time, effort, and all NO.

These are just my words so don't quote me on this.


----------



## Almin94

Thank you very much!!!!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> put flash drive formatted in fat32 into usb _*2.0*_ port
> 
> press f12
> 
> rinse and repeat for all important bios screens !


Ok Thanks! Rep added and I'll grab some shots to show you my current set up, I just have my CPU overclocked now and everything is stable again. It seems to be as soon as I overclock the NB.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cartel*
> 
> Just curious, do you have corsair and gskill ram?
> Have you run memtest86?
> 
> Do you have ecc disabled?
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-amd-owners-club/990#post_15370182
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also this board defaults to 1T and it should be 2T not sure if R2.0 does though


It's set at 2T by default on my R2, Yes I have Gskill and corsair ram, I bought the corsair ram thinking if I matched the CL9 and 1600hmz clocks AND the voltage ratings I would be ok but what I didn't know was the XMP ratings are different and the Gskill go to CL11 if higher than 800mhz.


----------



## Cartel

what about ecc it should be disabled.
also metest86 would show if there are any errors....your unstable NB might be bacause of errors.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cartel*
> 
> what about ecc it should be disabled.
> also metest86 would show if there are any errors....your unstable NB might be bacause of errors.


I'm almost certain my mix mash ram is causing me a lot of issues, I know this because when I pumped up my RAM too high with not enough volts it would crash constantly, I didn't realise until I pumped up my FSB a little bit too much. I have my CPU at 4.95GHz now, But under stress my CPU on high stress goes up to 64c... well 70c if the erratic reading is to be believed. Normal use however, the temps are good, Idle sits in the upper 20's and lower 30s depending. It's winter now and my house aka ambient temps are now starting to rise.


----------



## slick2500

Today I realized my computer is a little portable heater, playing some Dayz today both my gpus hit 65* and my cpu hit 72*









The Vapor Xs must dump a lot of heat into the case, during tress testing my cpu hit a max of 58*.


----------



## Almin94

I cant get stable cpu with IBT AVX version. All other stabilit tests like prime95, standard ibt pass without problems. Is there a real need to use IBT AVX? Whichh programs use that AVX? Thanks


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Almin94*
> 
> I'm beginner with this motherboard (SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0). What are the best ways and settings in bios to get max stable overclock and which will not harm motherboard? Thanks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Almin94*
> 
> I cant get stable cpu with IBT AVX version. All other stabilit tests like prime95, standard ibt pass without problems. Is there a real need to use IBT AVX? Whichh programs use that AVX? Thanks


IBT AVX shows that your over-clock is stable under very heavy workload, you can have an over-clock that wont pass this but works fine for what you do with it, i.e. gaming or photo editing.

If your happy with the overclock and it runs fine then you don't have to pass IBT AVX just be happy with what you have. And you don't need IBT AVX for any other programs.

Oh , before I forget, please fill in the Rig Builder section so we know what gear you have, Thanks


----------



## Almin94

I already fill rig builder, but I can't add it under my post's


and how much softwares use AVX instructions?


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Almin94*
> 
> I already fill rig builder, but I can't add it under my post's
> 
> 
> and how much softwares use AVX instructions?


AVX is an extension to the X86 instruction set used in Intel and AMD chips. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Vector_Extensions. Its part of the instruction set for the CPU.


----------



## Benjiw

OK! I disabled ECC but i'm still stuck for ideas on why my overclock bounces by 30mhz, I set it to 227mhz FSB but CPUID says it's running at 227.77mhz?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> OK! I disabled ECC but i'm still stuck for ideas on why my overclock bounces by 30mhz, I set it to 227mhz FSB but CPUID says it's running at 227.77mhz?


fluctuation is normal


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Almin94*
> 
> I already fill rig builder, but I can't add it under my post's
> 
> 
> and how much softwares use AVX instructions?


see my sig for how to add to sig !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> OK! I disabled ECC but i'm still stuck for ideas on why my overclock bounces by 30mhz, I set it to 227mhz FSB but CPUID says it's running at 227.77mhz?
> 
> 
> 
> fluctuation is normal
Click to expand...

you can add some voltage to the one in bios ( has different names iirc asus calls it NB 1.8v ) that is stock at 1.8v

be GENTLE !!!! if you add to much it can way way overshoot i have seen overshoots of 50mgz ( IE set to 200 and showed 250 )

you will ONLY NEED 1.805-1.81 ( +0.005-0.01 ) to help, it does not make it go away. just helps the bouncing !!!


----------



## Cartel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> OK! I disabled ECC but i'm still stuck for ideas on why my overclock bounces by 30mhz, I set it to 227mhz FSB but CPUID says it's running at 227.77mhz?


cpu spread spectrum-disable
might as well disable pci spread spectrum too

spread spectrum varies the frequency so that it doesn't use any particular frequency for more than a moment.


----------



## Vrbaa

What is the average voltage for FX 8320 cpus, which it requires for stable 4.5GHz?


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> What is the average voltage for FX 8320 cpus, which it requires for stable 4.5GHz?


totally different lol...there pretty close to the 8350's in clocking and my old 8350 took 1.4 for 4.5... but it wasn't a great clocker really... some can do it at 1.33ish I'd start there and run ibt avx on standard and see if it fails and how quick... if it fails bump the volts and try again.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Okay, off the wall question: Has anyone had any trouble with SSD's and this motherboard?

towards the beginning of the year my system started blue screening one day out of the well blue (no pun intended), the blue screens got more frequent over a couple of days and then finally it wouldn't boot at all giving me the message insert vaild boot drive. Well I've been redoing my system the past several weeks and figured what the heck I'll see what happens, so I plugged in the SSD and it was recognized by the motherboard but still wouldn't boot. I put my Windows disc in and the drive showed in the installer area but showed like a new or blank drive??? I re-installed Windows and it's been running for a couple of days now no issues, I was running all the Windows updates and noticed that the screen had gone off looked over and it was back at the screen that says insert valid boot device? The drive no longer shows in the Bios, but my 2 data drives do - does this sound like the SSD is dying/dead?

Thanks as always for your thoughts and advice!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Okay, off the wall question: Has anyone had any trouble with SSD's and this motherboard?
> 
> towards the beginning of the year my system started blue screening one day out of the well blue (no pun intended), the blue screens got more frequent over a couple of days and then finally it wouldn't boot at all giving me the message insert vaild boot drive. Well I've been redoing my system the past several weeks and figured what the heck I'll see what happens, so I plugged in the SSD and it was recognized by the motherboard but still wouldn't boot. I put my Windows disc in and the drive showed in the installer area but showed like a new or blank drive??? I re-installed Windows and it's been running for a couple of days now no issues, I was running all the Windows updates and noticed that the screen had gone off looked over and it was back at the screen that says insert valid boot device? The drive no longer shows in the Bios, but my 2 data drives do - does this sound like the SSD is dying/dead?
> 
> Thanks as always for your thoughts and advice!


I would say the SSD is goosed you could try it in another rig? I had loads of random BSOD on my Gigabyte UD5 before it died and took out my cpu, I'm going to hazard a guess it was down to my ram config being left on auto but initially I thought it could have been my SSD on it's way out.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Okay, off the wall question: Has anyone had any trouble with SSD's and this motherboard?
> 
> towards the beginning of the year my system started blue screening one day out of the well blue (no pun intended), the blue screens got more frequent over a couple of days and then finally it wouldn't boot at all giving me the message insert vaild boot drive. Well I've been redoing my system the past several weeks and figured what the heck I'll see what happens, so I plugged in the SSD and it was recognized by the motherboard but still wouldn't boot. I put my Windows disc in and the drive showed in the installer area but showed like a new or blank drive??? I re-installed Windows and it's been running for a couple of days now no issues, I was running all the Windows updates and noticed that the screen had gone off looked over and it was back at the screen that says insert valid boot device? The drive no longer shows in the Bios, but my 2 data drives do - does this sound like the SSD is dying/dead?
> 
> Thanks as always for your thoughts and advice!


have you checked its firmware?

Ie Samsung had a bug in the sdd firmware where they would run fine for the first 3 hours then reboot


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I would say the SSD is goosed you could try it in another rig? I had loads of random BSOD on my Gigabyte UD5 before it died and took out my cpu, I'm going to hazard a guess it was down to my ram config being left on auto but initially I thought it could have been my SSD on it's way out.


Well my ram is on auto and always has been on this board because it recognized my ram at the correct speed so I saw no reason to mess with it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> have you checked its firmware?
> 
> Ie Samsung had a bug in the sdd firmware where they would run fine for the first 3 hours then reboot


The funny thing is that the system ran for almost 2 years with no issue and then one day just started with the Blue screens?? If it was a firmware issue I'd think it would have been an issue earlier than 2 years, but I'll look in to it.

Thanks both of you +Rep









Update:

I checked there was an update to the firmware almost a year after I bought mine, I'll look into updating is when I get home from work tonight.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Well my ram is on auto and always has been on this board because it recognized my ram at the correct speed so I saw no reason to mess with it.
> The funny thing is that the system ran for almost 2 years with no issue and then one day just started with the Blue screens?? If it was a firmware issue I'd think it would have been an issue earlier than 2 years, but I'll look in to it.
> 
> Thanks both of you +Rep


Thank you for the Rep, I hope your issue is an easy fix! Also to the Auto setting for the ram, try looking into your timings, mine where set to CL11, Cycle time (tRAS) was set at 28 and Bank Cycle Time was set to 39 but I overclocked them to 1900MHz at CL10 24 and 33 respectively.

Also Thanks to Mega Man, I upped my 1.8v to 1.81v and it has reduced the bounce of my frequency ALOT! It still does it but jeez it is so much better now, thank you +Rep for you!


----------



## Benjiw

I was just messing around with my RAM again and my pc said my hard drive had failed etc, turns out when my bios had reset and put my SSD as the 4th bootable not the first where it should have been! Maybe your board might be doing the same?


----------



## hucklebuck

I was just watching some Youtube videos and then all of a sudden my pc turned off, then it turned on again, and off. Like Christmas lights off and on. I turned off power supply and held the power button down to flush system of all power and tried again. I got to log into windows and same thing again. PC don't want to stay on.

Here is what I tried.
1. reset CMOS
2. flash bios( did that with pc off and psu plugged in so it wouldn't shut off on me and brick the MB)
3. load optimized defaults

I tried just looking into the bios and all temps and voltages look fine. It has even shut off in the bios a couple times.

I am now running memtest86+ and it stays running, hasn't shut off.

What is going on? Please help.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> I was just watching some Youtube videos and then all of a sudden my pc turned off, then it turned on again, and off. Like Christmas lights off and on. I turned off power supply and held the power button down to flush system of all power and tried again. I got to log into windows and same thing again. PC don't want to stay on.
> 
> Here is what I tried.
> 1. reset CMOS
> 2. flash bios( did that with pc off and psu plugged in so it wouldn't shut off on me and brick the MB)
> 3. load optimized defaults
> 
> I tried just looking into the bios and all temps and voltages look fine. It has even shut off in the bios a couple times.
> 
> I am now running memtest86+ and it stays running, hasn't shut off.
> 
> What is going on? Please help.


No dead sticks of RAM or anything out of the ordinary? Sounds pretty odd to be honest.


----------



## WeirdHarold

So on the subject of my SSD problems:

At the moment it looks more and more like the SSD is the problem and not the motherboard as I've now had the system up and running for about 2 and half hours now starting with a windows 7 install onto a Seagate mechanical drive. I followed that with and install of all the usual stuff, drivers etc. and I've had zero issues thus far. I'm still going to look into the firmware update and then see if I can clone the drive over to the SSD and see what happens.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> So on the subject of my SSD problems:
> 
> At the moment it looks more and more like the SSD is the problem and not the motherboard as I've now had the system up and running for about 2 and half hours now starting with a windows 7 install onto a Seagate mechanical drive. I followed that with and install of all the usual stuff, drivers etc. and I've had zero issues thus far. I'm still going to look into the firmware update and then see if I can clone the drive over to the SSD and see what happens.


I would say the SSD is the problem too then.

As for me I'm extremely confused, I get the same CPU temps at 1.548v @ 4.9ghz as I do at 1.578v @ 5ghz, and no I'm not confusing Socket temps









EDIT: edit due to typo.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I would say the SSD is the problem too then.
> 
> As for me I'm extremely confused, I get the same CPU temps at 1.548v @ 4.9ghz as I do at 1.78v @ 5ghz, and no I'm not confusing Socket temps


that's simply not possible to have same temps with more heat....also I'm hoping you mean 1.68 and idle temps not stress temps


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> So on the subject of my SSD problems:
> 
> At the moment it looks more and more like the SSD is the problem and not the motherboard as I've now had the system up and running for about 2 and half hours now starting with a windows 7 install onto a Seagate mechanical drive. I followed that with and install of all the usual stuff, drivers etc. and I've had zero issues thus far. I'm still going to look into the firmware update and then see if I can clone the drive over to the SSD and see what happens.


did you try different sata ports and different sata cables when you were having the issue?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that's simply not possible to have same temps with more heat....also I'm hoping you mean 1.68 and idle temps not stress temps


No I don't mean idle temps, i mean load temps, don't understand what's going on so I'll just keep the Overclock turned down, my CPU needs far too many volts to keep 5GHz stable.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> No I don't mean idle temps, i mean load temps, don't understand what's going on so I'll just keep the Overclock turned down, my CPU needs far too many volts to keep 5GHz stable.


thermodynamics says it must be a bug in the software if you are seeing same temps pushing that much higher of a voltage....unless you were running LN2...because I would think even if it throttled you down temps would still be higher...I see difference of 5c going up .015 on my voltage at 4.8... so going up .20+ it just isn't possible... maybe post screen shots for people to see this in action


----------



## Benjiw

Well not sure how I managed it this time but I have now got 5GHz @ 1.548v under 70c full load which is a massive reduction in what I was getting. I'll try turning down the VCORE some more now and upping the VDDA which made 1.548v stable for me. Does this sound right or am I not doing something right?


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> No dead sticks of RAM or anything out of the ordinary? Sounds pretty odd to be honest.


Memtest86+ ran overnight for 7 hours and no errors, it detected both sticks of ram and no shutdown. I am starting to think it is the psu. I have heard that when booting into windows it draws more current, I'm gonna hook up and old psu and see. My cabling looked so nice but I'm gonna have to mess it up to find out.







Anyone else have a clue? Could it be the MB? Has anyone here had these issues?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> did you try different sata ports and different sata cables when you were having the issue?


Yes on both, doesn't matter on the port or cable I can't even get the computer to recognize the drive. When this first happened the first thing I tried was to reset the Bios, then I tried and different SATA port and finally I tried a new cable. If that's doesn't prove anything the cable that I'm using to run the mechanical drive is the same cable that was used to run the SSD both in the previous rig and in this one. I bought the SSD on a recommendation from others in the forum, I should have known better since an SSD is basically memory and every set of Crucial memory I've every used has died on me. I'll just be trying a different Brand next time.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Memtest86+ ran overnight for 7 hours and no errors, it detected both sticks of ram and no shutdown. I am starting to think it is the psu. I have heard that when booting into windows it draws more current, I'm gonna hook up and old psu and see. My cabling looked so nice but I'm gonna have to mess it up to find out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone else have a clue? Could it be the MB? Has anyone here had these issues?


Huh... hmmm, what settings have you got on the mobo atm? You might have put some volts too low maybe?


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Huh... hmmm, what settings have you got on the mobo atm? You might have put some volts too low maybe?


I tried running optimized default for the FX 8320.

I've been gone all day and left the pc off. I turned it on a short time ago and set some simple bios settings and and I'm running 4.2 Ghz. on the stock vid. Nothing has happened so far but the only thing I've done with it is run Prime95 Large FFT's for about 3 hrs.

I don't know what to think. I'm just gonna run some stress tests and see if I can reproduce the problem again.









I typing this from an old pc. Athlon 64 3700+. Really slow compared to what I've been using.







But it's something.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I would say the SSD is the problem too then.
> 
> As for me I'm extremely confused, I get the same CPU temps at 1.548v @ 4.9ghz as I do at 1.78v @ 5ghz, and no I'm not confusing Socket temps


I believe you had it all wrong.

1.78? your board will shut down before you can even boot. IMO since your cooling is not up to the task.

That Voltage level will require extreme cooling far beyond a water loop can provide.


----------



## Benjiw

Ah I see what all the confusing is about, it's a typo! *1.578v....*


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Ah I see what all the confusing is about, it's a typo! *1.578v....*


ohh.. lol

got me there.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> ohh.. lol
> 
> got me there.


No problem, I best go find the post and edit it so there is no further confusion, I can understand why people called BS hahahaha!


----------



## mus1mus

Don't worry.. Those guys knew everything they say.

And don't be hurt. We've all had the shares of all those.

Some trolls are harder nuts to crack as well. If you stay longer, you'll see the fun with those guys.









Nice chip you got there btw..


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Don't worry.. Those guys knew everything they say.
> 
> And don't be hurt. We've all had the shares of all those.
> 
> Some trolls are harder nuts to crack as well. If you stay longer, you'll see the fun with those guys.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice chip you got there btw..


Haha probably and yea I think this CPU is pretty decent, I'm not sure exactly how I managed to get it stable with such low voltage since I last set it up it took 1.578v and then some under extreme LLC pretty sure I saw 1.584v at some point! I have no proof though...


----------



## automaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Haha probably and yea I think this CPU is pretty decent, I'm not sure exactly how I managed to get it stable with such low voltage since I last set it up it took 1.578v and then some under extreme LLC pretty sure I saw 1.584v at some point! I have no proof though...


goood luck


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> have you checked its firmware?
> 
> Ie Samsung had a bug in the sdd firmware where they would run fine for the first 3 hours then reboot


Well, I can't be 100% sure yet but I updated the Firmware on my SSD as you suggested and Re-installed Windows and I've installed many of the drivers etc. and Windows update is close to done installing nearly 200 updates. The system has been running now for over 3 hours on the SSD and so far so good, I just hope that it keeps going


----------



## Mega Man

the reason you may need to update firmware btw {in responce to what you said about the ssd being in your pc for so long without issue } is other things get udated { bios, windows ect } and like all forms of hardware some "tweaks" may be needed


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the reason you may need to update firmware btw {in responce to what you said about the ssd being in your pc for so long without issue } is other things get udated { bios, windows ect } and like all forms of hardware some "tweaks" may be needed


or a flaw was found in the old firmware that may have always been present but more noticeable once other factors change


----------



## philhalo66

Will an overheating VRM cause a reboot while playing a game? I was just playing tomb raider and out of nowhere my pc rebooted, and when i got back into windows Vcore 1 was reporting 74C and Vcore 2 was 67C i am running my 6300 at 5.2GHz 1.6V along with a heavily OC'd 580 (1GHz 1.2V)


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Will an overheating VRM cause a reboot while playing a game? I was just playing tomb raider and out of nowhere my pc rebooted, and when i got back into windows Vcore 1 was reporting 74C and Vcore 2 was 67C i am running my 6300 at 5.2GHz 1.6V along with a heavily OC'd 580 (1GHz 1.2V)


The answer is yes, same with socket


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> The answer is yes, same with socket


Okay i figured as much, so step one how should i go about cooling them properly i don't have any small fans only a few very old 120MM and most don't work lol.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Okay i figured as much, so step one how should i go about cooling them properly i don't have any small fans only a few very old 120MM and most don't work lol.


a single 120 would still be better than nothing, you don't need much air just some active cooling will help


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *automaton*
> 
> goood luck


With that exactly?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Okay i figured as much, so step one how should i go about cooling them properly i don't have any small fans only a few very old 120MM and most don't work lol.


Have you checked that your overclocked card is stable first? I'm sure someone will correct me but I read that VRM are rated up to 110c. I stuck 2 x 80mm fans on my VRM because one I moved to water there was no airflow over the VRM heatsink and I was seeing upto 88c on the VRM and it made me really uncomfortable! I reduced the temp by 20c with the 2 fans and a further 2c by changing my side panel fan for 2 x 140mm. You should be able to bung a nice 120mm fan on there no problem.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the reason you may need to update firmware btw {in responce to what you said about the ssd being in your pc for so long without issue } is other things get udated { bios, windows ect } and like all forms of hardware some "tweaks" may be needed


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> or a flaw was found in the old firmware that may have always been present but more noticeable once other factors change


It just sucks that whatever happened that it caused my system to basically self destruct, I didn't have enough time to even begin to figure out what was wrong before it wouldn't boot.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> It just sucks that whatever happened that it caused my system to basically self destruct, I didn't have enough time to even begin to figure out what was wrong before it wouldn't boot.


also BIOS's and such do get corrupted.. unfortunately its a hard thing to tell.. but I know how you feel when I was having RAM issues I went through a similar headache


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> also BIOS's and such do get corrupted.. unfortunately its a hard thing to tell.. but I know how you feel when I was having RAM issues I went through a similar headache


yeah it seems some boards have a lot more issue than others with this....I ran exact same settings on my asrock "fatality killer" and had two bios corruptions in the same week... after those two no issues until I swapped for this saber and so far "knock knock knock" not happened yet with this board.... but I would much rather have that happen than os corruption or hardware failure


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> also BIOS's and such do get corrupted.. unfortunately its a hard thing to tell.. but I know how you feel when I was having RAM issues I went through a similar headache


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> yeah it seems some boards have a lot more issue than others with this....I ran exact same settings on my asrock "fatality killer" and had two bios corruptions in the same week... after those two no issues until I swapped for this saber and so far "knock knock knock" not happened yet with this board.... but I would much rather have that happen than os corruption or hardware failure


It seems that the Firmware looks to be the problem everything is still working today and I was thinking about the more recent problem, the drive worked fine till I ran Windows update and it was like half way through the update when it rebooted and failed to boot. So it could very well have been an issue between the old Firmware and one of the updates.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> It seems that the Firmware looks to be the problem everything is still working today and I was thinking about the more recent problem, the drive worked fine till I ran Windows update and it was like half way through the update when it rebooted and failed to boot. So it could very well have been an issue between the old Firmware and one of the updates.


didn't you say you did fresh installs and still had the issue? That would rule the updates out unless you updated before testing again







I hate having intermittent problems they are the most frustrating because it's hard to pin them down... especially when you are tight on money like me and spend a lot on your rig you just simply put want it to work


----------



## Dromihetes

When you find a BIOS that works stop at it don t go for updates ,otherwise you may not be able to flash back








Stopped at 2104(hope i remember it correctly) with my 6300.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> didn't you say you did fresh installs and still had the issue? That would rule the updates out unless you updated before testing again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hate having intermittent problems they are the most frustrating because it's hard to pin them down... especially when you are tight on money like me and spend a lot on your rig you just simply put want it to work


Ok the original problem was odd, everything was totally fine system had been running great for 2 years then no warning it started to blue screen one day. The blue screens became more frequent over then next couple of hours and then finally it blue screened and wouldn't reboot, I just got the message "Please insert proper boot device" I couldn't even see the drive in the bios. I had so much going on at the time and yes money was tight, and for a change not because I'd just spent a fortune on my rig - nope new car. So I pulled out my laptop and didn't look at my rig for the better part of this year







So last month I finally decided I needed to do something as I'm tired of using my laptop for everything, also thought it would be a great opportunity to update my water cooling loop to include my graphics card. I had thought all along that the SSD had failed and figured if nothing else I'd install windows on a mechanical hard drive, but when I fired up the system the SSD showed up on the post screen so I figured what the hell lets see what happens. So I did a clean install to the SSD and everything seemed fine, system had run for several hours but then I decided to run windows update. My windows disc is a very early copy of windows 7 so the first set of updates is like 170ish updates. It was about half way though the updates when I'm guessing it blue screened and rebooted because I wasn't looking at it when it happened and again I got the message insert proper boot device. So my thought is, if the old firmware did have issues with an update to windows it makes sense that I didn't have any problems with the clean install from my disc, but did have an issue when I ran the updates. Now with the new firmware I've run all the updates and everything is still working, now if it stays that way great. But I'll be finding a way to clone or back up my entire boot drive from now on, any suggestions on that would be greatly appreciated









And again thanks for the suggestion about the firmware, I never would have realized that might be a problem since this was my first SSD - I would have just replaced it at some point and not looked back.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dromihetes*
> 
> When you find a BIOS that works stop at it don t go for updates ,otherwise you may not be able to flash back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stopped at 2104(hope i remember it correctly) with my 6300.


I'm running the Bios that came on the motherboard because I haven't changed my CPU etc. and I've not seen the seen to update it, however I've been considering updating it because I've been considering updating the CPU. I have the REV 1.0 Board so I have a very early Bios revision so I know I'd need to update for any of the newer FX chips, I've looked at the CPU support page and my Bios doesn't support them.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I'm running the Bios that came on the motherboard because I haven't changed my CPU etc. and I've not seen the seen to update it, however I've been considering updating it because I've been considering updating the CPU. I have the REV 1.0 Board so I have a very early Bios revision so I know I'd need to update for any of the newer FX chips, I've looked at the CPU support page and my Bios doesn't support them.


one positive thing about updating bios is they often fix features that didn't work 100 percent as intended... i always read the change logs and see if it's benifitial to update our not


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I'm running the Bios that came on the motherboard because I haven't changed my CPU etc. and I've not seen the seen to update it, however I've been considering updating it because I've been considering updating the CPU. I have the REV 1.0 Board so I have a very early Bios revision so I know I'd need to update for any of the newer FX chips, I've looked at the CPU support page and my Bios doesn't support them.


Which BIOS are you on exactly?


----------



## Benjiw

A combo of not keeping all your stuff up to date has caused this issue I'm betting, I always update firmware and bios as soon as I know there is another version out, granted it can mess up your settings when overclocking etc but I'd rather re-overclock my rig than lose all my date.


----------



## hucklebuck

Does anyone here know what TIM is on the vrm/nb heatsink? Like is it a pad, or liquid or both? I'm talking about the ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 MB. If it's a pad what is the thickness?


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Does anyone here know what TIM is on the vrm/nb heatsink? Like is it a pad, or liquid or both? I'm talking about the ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 MB. If it's a pad what is the thickness?


Try this if you want to remount. http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/thermal-adhesive-tape-a18hh


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> Try this if you want to remount. http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/thermal-adhesive-tape-a18hh


I need to know the thickness. Preferably from someone who has taken the heatsinks off before.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Which BIOS are you on exactly?


Just looked and it's Bios Rev - 0705
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> A combo of not keeping all your stuff up to date has caused this issue I'm betting, I always update firmware and bios as soon as I know there is another version out, granted it can mess up your settings when overclocking etc but I'd rather re-overclock my rig than lose all my date.


I'm just to used to mechanical drives as this is the first SSD I've owned and with regular drives it's more of a set it and forget it type of deal







I never even gave a moments thought to the idea of firmware till it was mentioned on here and the thought that went through my head was - well duh the SSD would have a slightly more advanced circuit board in it than a normal hard drive and that means that it probably has some kind of software on it that governs it's operation.

As for my Bios I'll most likely be updating that at some point here soon, just to be safe and know that any bug fixes that they might have included in the newer Revisions are on my system









By the way realized last night that I've never updated the firmware on the mSATA SSD in my laptop either and there was one for that as well so thanks again for introducing me to the world of firmware on SSD LoL


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Just looked and it's Bios Rev - 0705
> I'm just to used to mechanical drives as this is the first SSD I've owned and with regular drives it's more of a set it and forget it type of deal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never even gave a moments thought to the idea of firmware till it was mentioned on here and the thought that went through my head was - well duh the SSD would have a slightly more advanced circuit board in it than a normal hard drive and that means that it probably has some kind of software on it that governs it's operation.
> 
> As for my Bios I'll most likely be updating that at some point here soon, just to be safe and know that any bug fixes that they might have included in the newer Revisions are on my system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way realized last night that I've never updated the firmware on the mSATA SSD in my laptop either and there was one for that as well so thanks again for introducing me to the world of firmware on SSD LoL


um yeah update your bios, you are on a BIOS that came out before the 83xx chips did, in fact in the listing I am seeing a few bios updates that would benefit you.. TBH I say go up to at least 1503, I used to run 1503 (assuming its the same one on the r2.0)


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> um yeah update your bios, you are on a BIOS that came out before the 83xx chips did, in fact in the listing I am seeing a few bios updates that would benefit you.. TBH I say go up to at least 1503, I used to run 1503 (assuming its the same one on the r2.0)


Yep I did realize that it was that old of a revision I figured it was a fairly old revision considering that I got the board like a few months after it's release, but it's been a while since I looked at the Asus support page







I'll be doing an update to the bios before I go to much further with the build, even if I don't end up dropping an FX chip in it. But if I'm going to update it I'll probably just update to the most recent Rev. and call it a day, that way if I did drop a new chip in I won't need to worry about another update.


----------



## Dromihetes

1503 for revision 2.0 was the best for me with a 6300 overclocking wise.
I have made the mistake to test newer and couldnt go back then settled to one that seemed to be working ok.
With newer i had issues with my X-Fi Xtreme Music PCI sound card ,issues that stopped when i reverted to older.
So if the CPU is not some new breed stay with older versions ,since they added support for 9xxx cpu-s something changed ,less overclocking headroom.


----------



## Vrbaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dromihetes*
> 
> 1503 for revision 2.0 was the best for me with a 6300 overclocking wise.
> I have made the mistake to test newer and couldnt go back then settled to one that seemed to be working ok.
> With newer i had issues with my X-Fi Xtreme Music PCI sound card ,issues that stopped when i reverted to older.
> So if the CPU is not some new breed stay with older versions ,since they added support for 9xxx cpu-s something changed ,less overclocking headroom.


Bios 1503 for ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 is latest bios which not support FX 9xxx ?

And how to fallback to older Bios? EZ Flash tell me that "Outdated image".


----------



## Vrbaa

What mean this results in IntelBurntTest AVX: *-1.#IND00e+000* ? Thanks!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> What mean this results in IntelBurntTest AVX: *-1.#IND00e+000* ? Thanks!


It means that you are not stable and need more volts.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> What mean this results in IntelBurntTest AVX: *-1.#IND00e+000* ? Thanks!


that isn't stable, your results should be a multiple of 3 in linpack such as 3.xxxxxxxxx etc, as said, you need more volts but watch your temps.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> Bios 1503 for ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 is latest bios which not support FX 9xxx ?
> 
> And how to fallback to older Bios? EZ Flash tell me that "Outdated image".


So the only thing they changed in the Rev. 1604 Bios was support for the 9xxx series FX chips??

Because if that's the case then the 1503 would be the newest one that I'd need, if I do update my CPU it would probably be the 8350 for the 8370 anyway.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> um yeah update your bios, you are on a BIOS that came out before the 83xx chips did, in fact in the listing I am seeing a few bios updates that would benefit you.. TBH I say go up to at least 1503, I used to run 1503 (assuming its the same one on the r2.0)


Yeah especially the one Bios Rev. that fixed a hanging problem specific to the 1090T and 1100T, that one would probably be a good one to have









I really hadn't given much thought to the Bios because until that day with the Blue screens from no where everything was peachy and I'd always gone on the idea that you only update the Bios if you're having issues. I will be checking for Bios updates at least a few times a year now and reading the update log for that Revision to see if it would help me in any way.

Thanks again +Rep to you


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Yeah especially the one Bios Rev. that fixed a hanging problem specific to the 1090T and 1100T, that one would probably be a good one to have
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really hadn't given much thought to the Bios because until that day with the Blue screens from no where everything was peachy and I'd always gone on the idea that you only update the Bios if you're having issues. I will be checking for Bios updates at least a few times a year now and reading the update log for that Revision to see if it would help me in any way.
> 
> Thanks again +Rep to you


that was true back when it was a lot riskier to flash bios files...now there are so many ways to fix a bad flash... and for the most part bricking a component is much harder to the extent of being a non issue... with bios ok buttons and dual bios and USB flashback as well as traditional options and even some software solutions for other components... things are definitely easier


----------



## miklkit

The last time I used this Sabertooth the fans were stuck at 50% and it was a hot slow mess. It turns out I also had a bad PSU.

Now with a decent PSU I'm trying it again with better results. The fans hit 100% just fine now and it is stable. Here are the results of an IBT AVX run from yesterday a few hours after it went together. The temps are high, so I'm thinking maybe I messed up the TIM.

Anyway, there are some things I would like to know, like what are these?
CPU
VIN4
VIN6
VCORE-1
VCORE-2
TEMP7
TEMP8

Next I want to get the ram up to speed. I'm aiming for 1996 or better, but all I know how to do is just bump up the FSB some more. If someone sees something that needs changing please let me know. Everything it on "auto" except for a few voltages.


----------



## Vrbaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dromihetes*
> 
> 1503 for revision 2.0 was the best for me with a 6300 overclocking wise.
> I have made the mistake to test newer and couldnt go back then settled to one that seemed to be working ok.
> With newer i had issues with my X-Fi Xtreme Music PCI sound card ,issues that stopped when i reverted to older.
> So if the CPU is not some new breed stay with older versions ,since they added support for 9xxx cpu-s something changed ,less overclocking headroom.


Hmm, I will try tomorrow 1503. Now I'm on latest bios for R2.0 and I can't overclock it to 4.5GHz stable with less than 1.456V . I have already said that I can not make validation on 5.0GHz with 1.46V, my old motherboard ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3 can do that. Sabertooth can't. :-/


----------



## Dromihetes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> Hmm, I will try tomorrow 1503. Now I'm on latest bios for R2.0 and I can't overclock it to 4.5GHz stable with less than 1.456V . I have already said that I can not make validation on 5.0GHz with 1.46V, my old motherboard ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3 can do that. Sabertooth can't. :-/


Some months ago i ve tried latest ,then i had to go to 2103 because 1503 was impossible to revert to.







you will need to force it to flash.Take care.


----------



## Vrbaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dromihetes*
> 
> Some months ago i ve tried latest ,then i had to go to 2103 because 1503 was impossible to revert to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you will need to force it to flash.Take care.


It is possible with USB flashback option. Only you must to do is rename downloaded bios .CAP file. Without renaming motherboard won't accept it.


----------



## davcc22

well ill join this little club now where is that 4.5ghz valadation here it is http://valid.canardpc.com/hqfdqf http://valid.canardpc.com/hqfdqf


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dromihetes*
> 
> Some months ago i ve tried latest ,then i had to go to 2103 because 1503 was impossible to revert to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you will need to force it to flash.Take care.


How do you force it to flash?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> Hmm, I will try tomorrow 1503. Now I'm on latest bios for R2.0 and I can't overclock it to 4.5GHz stable with less than 1.456V . I have already said that I can not make validation on 5.0GHz with 1.46V, my old motherboard ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3 can do that. Sabertooth can't. :-/


If you can get 5ghz stable with only 1.456V I'd love to see the IBT results. because there is no way in hell my CPU would get that on all 8 cores, you must have the rarest CPU of all time!


----------



## Cartel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> The last time I used this Sabertooth the fans were stuck at 50% and it was a hot slow mess. It turns out I also had a bad PSU.
> 
> Now with a decent PSU I'm trying it again with better results. The fans hit 100% just fine now and it is stable. Here are the results of an IBT AVX run from yesterday a few hours after it went together. The temps are high, so I'm thinking maybe I messed up the TIM.
> 
> Anyway, there are some things I would like to know, like what are these?
> CPU
> VIN4
> VIN6
> VCORE-1
> VCORE-2
> TEMP7
> TEMP8
> 
> Next I want to get the ram up to speed. I'm aiming for 1996 or better, but all I know how to do is just bump up the FSB some more. If someone sees something that needs changing please let me know. Everything it on "auto" except for a few voltages.


CPU NB default = 2200, HT Frequency default = 2600 MHz.

Just wondering why yours in underclocked?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cartel*
> 
> CPU NB default = 2200, HT Frequency default = 2600 MHz.
> 
> Just wondering why yours in underclocked?


Also why are his Volts lower during testing than when the system is idle too? No LLC set? NB and HT on auto?

EDIT due to poor grammar.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> The last time I used this Sabertooth the fans were stuck at 50% and it was a hot slow mess. It turns out I also had a bad PSU.
> 
> Now with a decent PSU I'm trying it again with better results. The fans hit 100% just fine now and it is stable. Here are the results of an IBT AVX run from yesterday a few hours after it went together. The temps are high, so I'm thinking maybe I messed up the TIM.
> 
> Anyway, there are some things I would like to know, like what are these?
> CPU
> VIN4
> VIN6
> VCORE-1
> VCORE-2
> TEMP7
> TEMP8
> 
> Next I want to get the ram up to speed. I'm aiming for 1996 or better, but all I know how to do is just bump up the FSB some more. If someone sees something that needs changing please let me know. Everything it on "auto" except for a few voltages.


I'd recommend you work to raise both the CPU/NB freq and the HT link speed.
I've also run a 234 x 20.5 OC (24 Prime95 stable) and it looked like this


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









The more items NOT left on Auto the easier things will be. Auto (bios defaults) always tend to over volt so be sure to check both LLC's are not on auto.
This might be why you see 1.587v Vcore for more than just a blip. Mine ran a lot closer to 1.524 with only a couple spikes that high (1.587)

I'm not sure which Ram kit you have as your rig sig is not for this rig or not updated, so I can't help there without more info.

To run Dram at 1996 will require more HTT (Ref Clock) MHz.
I'm currently running a very nice 4822MHz 267 x 18.5 OC listed in my rig sig and yes you'll feel a difference with the higher ref clock and more bandwidth.


----------



## miklkit

Hi all: Yes the NB clock and HT clock are on auto. I will set them to 2200 & 2600 and see what happens.

The LLC is set to medium. I am used to no LLC, so started at regular but got 0.11v vdroop. Too much plus it was a bit unstable. Medium is about what I am used to. Tried high but shut IBT down when the temps hit 70C. Medium it is.

I have not updated my sig rig, but this one is the same except for the old warhorse 8350, this Sabertooth and a different PSU while the one in the sig rig and the GD80 are being RMA'd. In the next month or so it will be going through changes as the 9590 will be going in sooner or later.

I will be trying out the suggestions but this is what I have done since the last post. Ram at 2000.


----------



## miklkit

Ok, I locked in the NB and HT clocks and dropped the vcore 1 click, then copied The Sandman's settings as best I could. The two bios seem to be a little different. It is better now with lower temps and better gflops. Oh in the 2nd pic I showed SPD. The 2T setting works well in the GD80 but I have not tried it in the Sabertooth yet.


----------



## Vrbaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> If you can get 5ghz stable with only 1.456V I'd love to see the IBT results. because there is no way in hell my CPU would get that on all 8 cores, you must have the rarest CPU of all time!


Not stable at 1.456V, only for validation. With Sabertooth can't do that. It is a problem, because Sabertooth should be better.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Okay, just flashed the 1503 Bios on my Board and so far so good









Got 23 days until I need to activate Windows and I'm going to wait as long as I can to make sure that SSD is going to keep working LoL !

But it's been running great for a week now with the new firmware on the SSD loaded, so I'm really hoping that was the main problem. I'm going to hope for the best and start to re-install some of my programs etc. and see what happens









Thanks again to all of you for your suggestions


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> If you can get 5ghz stable with only 1.456V I'd love to see the IBT results. because there is no way in hell my CPU would get that on all 8 cores, you must have the rarest CPU of all time!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not stable at 1.456V, only for validation. With Sabertooth can't do that. It is a problem, because Sabertooth should be better.
Click to expand...

you really dont understand these chips at all do you ?


----------



## Vrbaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you really dont understand these chips at all do you ?


It is the same chip that I used on M4A89GTD PRO, and now on Sabertooth R2.0. It's a bit confusing. And what I don't understand with these chips, please tell me..


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> It is the same chip that I used on M4A89GTD PRO, and now on Sabertooth R2.0. It's a bit confusing. And what I don't understand with these chips, please tell me..


Are we talking FX9590 here.Because if we are idel voltage is 1.58 base. About or around 219W start. Thanks


----------



## Vrbaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Are we talking FX9590 here.Because if we are idel voltage is 1.58 base. About or around 219W start. Thanks


Nope, we are talking about FX-8320.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> Nope, we are talking about FX-8320.


Oh okay cool I didnt see the processor listed anywhere in the post. Thanks


----------



## miklkit

I tried the timings in the SPD and while win8.1 started it soon crashed with memory management problems. Since this is the first time I ever set ram timings manually there is a good chance I did it wrong. How does this look?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Ok, I locked in the NB and HT clocks and dropped the vcore 1 click, then copied The Sandman's settings as best I could. The two bios seem to be a little different. It is better now with lower temps and better gflops. Oh in the 2nd pic I showed SPD. The 2T setting works well in the GD80 but I have not tried it in the Sabertooth yet.


Why on earth are you pumping 1.6v almost into an Idle chip? your voltages are the wrong way around, you have mega VDROOP under load.


----------



## mus1mus

That's just LLC Setting's work.

If it's on Very High or Ultra, I wouldn't be too surprised how bad the Overshoots would be.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> That's just LLC Setting's work.
> 
> If it's on Very High or Ultra, I wouldn't be too surprised how bad the Overshoots would be.


Mine don't do that unless I set LLC to normal or high, very high and extreme are the ones I use to keep my idle temps down as much as possible then under load I get the required volts to keep it stable unless that's where i'm going wrong?


----------



## mus1mus

I'm using just High. That gives me a Vdroop of 0.012 Volts at Load. Higher than that, I am getting Overshoots at Load that is more harmful to temps IMO..


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Why on earth are you pumping 1.6v almost into an Idle chip? your voltages are the wrong way around, you have mega VDROOP under load.


I guess you didn't read the part where I tried high and it sent temps shooting over 70C. High volts don't hurt them when they aren't under load but can when they are under load. I TRIED to kill this 8350 by running it at 1.64 vcore in IBT AVX and it's still doing fine.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I guess you didn't read the part where I tried high and it sent temps shooting over 70C. High volts don't hurt them when they aren't under load but can when they are under load. I TRIED to kill this 8350 by running it at 1.64 vcore in IBT AVX and it's still doing fine.


I thought the CPU needs a certain voltage to maintain stability under load? Hence in the overclocking guide for asus boards the recommended settings are very high LLC and 130% ratio?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I'm using just High. That gives me a Vdroop of 0.012 Volts at Load. Higher than that, I am getting Overshoots at Load that is more harmful to temps IMO..


Maybe that's where I'm falling foul then?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I guess you didn't read the part where I tried high and it sent temps shooting over 70C. High volts don't hurt them when they aren't under load but can when they are under load. I TRIED to kill this 8350 by running it at 1.64 vcore in IBT AVX and it's still doing fine.


Mine's set to 1.65 at the BIOS at HIGH LLC. That nets 1.625 at LOAD due to some tweaks with the frequency. You just need to find where it would deliver a fairly flat response..

Don't worry, you can't kill the chip.







If I set mine to 1.7 at the BIOS, the board will shut down..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I thought the CPU needs a certain voltage to maintain stability under load? Hence in the overclocking guide for asus boards the recommended settings are very high LLC and 130% ratio?
> Maybe that's where I'm falling foul then?


BOARD Specific.

I find VERY HIGH and EXTREME unpredictable.. And i'm on max percentage.. 140%?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I guess you didn't read the part where I tried high and it sent temps shooting over 70C. High volts don't hurt them when they aren't under load but can when they are under load. I TRIED to kill this 8350 by running it at 1.64 vcore in IBT AVX and it's still doing fine.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I thought the CPU needs a certain voltage to maintain stability under load? Hence in the overclocking guide for asus boards the recommended settings are very high LLC and 130% ratio?
> Maybe that's where I'm falling foul then?


Running additional LLC is not harmful and should not raise temps when system is setup properly.
This is why you set LLC values first (at the beginning) and start with minimal Vcore/OC and make small increases only as needed.

Instead of looking at it as over shooting the Vcore value set in bios you need to see it as this is what it takes to run my CPU under load and enjoy the usually slightly lower Vcore when not under stress!
When temps become an issue than best be thinking of up grading cooling system or backing off the OC a notch.

As for your temps hitting 70ish should not be a surprise when attempting a 4.8GHz OC on air unless you live in the arctic and have a lot more than what is shown in you rig sig (cooler link w/single fan?).
My chip is a voltage hog compared to most and trust me I know what 1.64v takes to cool. IMHO it ain't happening on air.

Benjiw, The CPU load varies and so will voltage to accommodate. This is why you see some variance when stress testing right? You're doing it right as best I can tell.

All this mad Vdroop conversation is just plain wrong. I recommend you start your OC over with this new info and see how it goes.


----------



## miklkit

Somewhere around here is an old article about vdroop and llc. I will try to find it again.

But until then a quick explanation. All motherboards have vdroop. They idle at one voltage and when a load is put on it the voltage drops a bit and it runs at that level. Without llc you set the voltage higher so it runs at the desired voltage under load. Also, when a load is put on a mobo there is a shock effect where the voltage spikes up and down before settling to the new level.

LLC compensates for that vdroop. You set the voltage you want it to run at and when a load is put on it and it droops the llc kicks in and pushes the voltage back up where it was. But it also adds its own shockwave effect that throws even bigger spikes at the cpu. Plus it adds heat to the whole mess.

It can be argued that LLC is a bad thing, but almost everyone likes it so.....


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Running additional LLC is not harmful and should not raise temps when system is setup properly.
> This is why you set LLC values first (at the beginning) and start with minimal Vcore/OC and make small increases only as needed.
> 
> *Instead of looking at it as over shooting the Vcore value set in bios you need to see it as this is what it takes to run my CPU under load and enjoy the usually slightly lower Vcore when not under stress!
> When temps become an issue than best be thinking of up grading cooling system or backing off the OC a notch.*


True. If you already knew or have spent some time knowing the board and how LLC Settings react to LOAD.

I'm not saying my set-up is the best. It will and might only work best on mine.









After seeing how predictable High LLC on mine, and somewhat grabbed an idea how to set it up, I settled to it. 0.012 Volts of Vdroop is not bad and during a presence of LOAD, my Vcore only changes to a couple of values being Low and High. I'm happy with that.

On that Context, I am very happy with the Kitty. Coming from a UD3 rev 3 where Vcore swings were more drastic and unpredictable.

Quote:


> *As for your temps hitting 70ish should not be a surprise when attempting a 4.8GHz OC on air unless you live in the arctic and have a lot more than what is shown in you rig sig (cooler link w/single fan?).
> My chip is a voltage hog compared to most and trust me I know what 1.64v takes to cool. IMHO it ain't happening on air.*


Ohh yeah.. respect to you brother. 1.625 alone takes a 480 and a 360 rads on mine with an ambient of 25C to tame.
Air? Not a chance. will crap out at 1.500 or less. (not to mention, 65C on AIDA64 at 1.488. If you know the difference between AIDA and IBT AVX temps, you'd know what you'll need to tame 1.64V)








Quote:


> Benjiw, The CPU load varies and so will voltage to accommodate. This is why you see some variance when stress testing right? You're doing it right as best I can tell.
> 
> All this mad Vdroop conversation is just plain wrong. I recommend you start your OC over with this new info and see how it goes.


There's just no One-Setting-Works-for-All with Overclocking. And No substitute to fine tuning.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Benjiw, The CPU load varies and so will voltage to accommodate. This is why you see some variance when stress testing right? You're doing it right as best I can tell.
> 
> All this mad Vdroop conversation is just plain wrong. I recommend you start your OC over with this new info and see how it goes.


I thought so, I knew something was a miss and I had been doing it right because if I ran 1.574v constantly my system just wouldn't be able to cool itself at all, to be perfectly honest with you, after my hip replacement is done I'm getting a job then saving up for another rig so there's no point me really upgrading my stuff just yet unless I move it over and considering this rig will be going to my girlfriend it needs to be on air because she doesn't understand all this overclocking and fan set up etc so I'd be best off putting the Phantek cooler back on and putting it down to 4.6GHz for her.


----------



## miklkit

Well, I tried high llc again and this time I dropped the vcore a bunch first. The first time I was stress testing it at over 1.6v so ya it got hot.

It took many tries but it eventually got stable enough for now running IBT AVX @ 1.524v. Ambients are 23C. It was running at 59C with the odd spike into the 60s until the heater kick on and started blowing hot air into the front of the case towards the end of this test. Damthings!

If you want to know what I am running click on my sig rig and then click on the pic. That pic is over a year old and there have been some changes. The case fans were upgraded, the video card changed, the red sound card was moved down to the bottom slot, and the psu and motherboard are out being RMAd. There is another Seasonic psu in it and the Sabertooth. The CPU cooler, CPU, and ram are the same.


----------



## mus1mus

Nice one mik

Still huge swings though. Try adjusting VRM phase frequency. Right setting will maintain that values to a couple or less. Or about 0.025 or less.

Try a high value like 450KHz followed by a low one like 330Khz and look which one gives the least swings.

Mine for example has a Vcore of 1.632 at Idle that goes down to 1.620 at load. IBT AVX. With fluctuations back to 1.632.


----------



## Benjiw

The swings you're talking about, how do I monitor them? the only swings I see are up from my vcore setting to about 5.36v at the moment, then back down to 5.24v every so often, at the end of a run in IBT. There was no way I could get 5ghz stable without very high LLC because the chip would be super hot at idle before vdroop helped thermals at all? If you're clocking up the FSB lower your VCORE slightly and add some VDDA volts to help your stability, that's how I got my 5ghz stable and managable heating of my room lol. Unfortunatly I didn't record any data while overclocking so when i tried to hit 5.1ghz i messed with my settings and couldn't remember them so pumped the vcore up and boiled over my coolant.


----------



## miklkit

VRM phase frequency? I guess I'll find it. All I have ever adjusted before is voltages so this is all new to me.

You boiled the coolant? Crickey!

EDIT: Is there another name for vrm phase frequency. I don't see it in the bios.


----------



## mus1mus




----------



## miklkit

Thanks. Found it and set it to your setting. It didn't like that and went unstable, so now I'm looking for a stable setting.


----------



## mus1mus

Moar Vcore..









The fact that my LLC Settings allow a little Vdroop, meant yours might need a bump. My Vdroop goes as little as 0.012

Try setting your Vcore about the same as your Max Reported Vcore on HWInfo and go down from there.

Take into account the 0.025 Volts difference between Bios and Windows Voltages. That is enough to make or break your stability. Or, either drop or add about 5-7C in temps.


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*


How do you know when to use "VRM fixed frequency mode"? What is it good for?


----------



## mus1mus

to flatten out my Vcore..

You see here, my Vcore remains at 1.620 under load with occasional spikes to 1.632 once in a while.
The graph shows the duration of 10 IBT AVX runs.



It will involve A LOT of testing. But not too hard.

On HWInfo, you double click on the Vcore. It will open a histogram.

VRM Fixed Frequency will allow you to tweak how the Vcore stabilizes. Start with a Modest low value say, 350. Observe the graph.

Next, try a High value like 450. Observe. You'd want a flat Vcore response. Tweaking the Vcore to the next value also helps. Say, 1.5625 produces erratic swings, try 1.5500 and observe.

Once you get a feel of how things go, pretty easy.

Note, I keep things cool and stable this way.

1.632 or higher will no longer be cooled the way I want it. 1.620 lies just above my lowest Vcore to be stable.


----------



## miklkit

Well, I ended up with a frequency of 360 and it seems to like it. I have also tried going up on multi and fsb and they both go unstable any higher, so this looks to be about it. Thank you all very much.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Well, I ended up with a frequency of 360 and it seems to like it. I have also tried going up on multi and fsb and they both go unstable any higher, so this looks to be about it. Thank you all very much.


Nice.

By the way, you are looking at a high Socket temp. Have you attached a fan at the back? and in the VRMs?

Your Cores are still within 60.. you can still push that.

And your RAM has been tuned loose. CPU-NB as well..


----------



## miklkit

Nope, no fans. I am not going to butcher a perfectly good case for this motherboard. If it burns, it burns.

I like a big "fudge factor". That run was done in the middle of the day. The front door was open and it was 19C outside and 22C inside. On a hot day temps will be higher.

The ram is on auto as I have never messed with ram timings except for one failed attempt yesterday.

With 16gb of ram I have learned that it helps to bump up the cpu-nb.


----------



## Benjiw

I've been playing with my settings again and I bumped my FSB up to 240 but then it wouldn't boot, possible that my VDDA was too low? not sure, anyway my VCORE is set to 1.560v under load but cant seem to get it stable as of yet, VCORE isn't helping either because I bumped up my volts quiet a lot but it didn't help stability, however, VDDA volts helped.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Nope, no fans. I am not going to butcher a perfectly good case for this motherboard. If it burns, it burns.
> 
> I like a big "fudge factor". That run was done in the middle of the day. The front door was open and it was 19C outside and 22C inside. On a hot day temps will be higher.
> 
> The ram is on auto as I have never messed with ram timings except for one failed attempt yesterday.
> 
> With 16gb of ram I have learned that it helps to bump up the cpu-nb.


4 sticks? If so, 2133 will be a tad easier than 2400.

Your timings are also too loose.

A 80mm fan on the VRMs will help lower the socket temps..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I've been playing with my settings again and I bumped my FSB up to 240 but then it wouldn't boot, possible that my VDDA was too low? not sure, anyway my VCORE is set to 1.560v under load but cant seem to get it stable as of yet, VCORE isn't helping either because I bumped up my volts quiet a lot but it didn't help stability, however, VDDA volts helped.


Not too sure.. I have my VDDA maxed out..lol


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 4 sticks? If so, 2133 will be a tad easier than 2400.
> 
> Your timings are also too loose.
> 
> A 80mm fan on the VRMs will help lower the socket temps..
> Not too sure.. I have my VDDA maxed out..lol


Okay, now I have an understanding of VRM Fixed Frequency. +Rep

What does the VDDA do? How do I know when to adjust it?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Okay, now I have an understanding of VRM Fixed Frequency. +Rep
> 
> What does the VDDA do? How do I know when to adjust it?


Just set it up.. Mine's MAXED out at 2.800. Try 2.700.. Can't explain it but I'm pushing mine to the limits. and all safe..


----------



## miklkit

The strangest thing happened. I decided to go for a 20 run test and it crashed at 2,3,4 runs. Mystifying.

Anyway, it is stable again but I had to go the brute force route and now temps are pushing the red line. Now trying to get the temps down.

Ohh, VDDA is also called PLL. I ran it at 2.9 in the other board.


----------



## Dromihetes

Responsiveness of the voltage increases with 350 Mhz for the VRM.,but so does the heat








I wouldnt use the highest LLC setting as it spikes the voltage to much ,i doubt the silicon likes that..
I also observed a strange thing when try to get lowest voltage possible even though the CPU is ok stability wise the on-board network card would start braking connection randomly.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> The strangest thing happened. I decided to go for a 20 run test and it crashed at 2,3,4 runs. Mystifying.
> 
> Anyway, it is stable again but I had to go the brute force route and now temps are pushing the red line. Now trying to get the temps down.
> 
> Ohh, VDDA is also called PLL. I ran it at 2.9 in the other board.


hard lock or blue screen? its not enough vcore from experience or volts to memory etc. temps will lower when using higher llc.


----------



## JReiri

Can anyone confirm the difference in performance from 2 overclocked Matrix Platinum HD 7970 cards on a Sabretooth 990fx Rev 2 board to a Sabretooth Gen 3 board? Ive heard there is little difference for 1 card but for 2 overclocked im not sure, im newbie as and am in process of my first build, but just want to make wise choices, am looking at probly getting a fx 8300 for cpu, currently have storm trooper case, corsair ax1200i, m p hd 7970, ssds, hdds, keyboard, monitors etc pretty much everything bar cpu, mobo, and ram. Dont really like intel think I would rather overclock an Amd. Any help or advice greatly appreciated.


----------



## davcc22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JReiri*
> 
> Can anyone confirm the difference in performance from 2 overclocked Matrix Platinum HD 7970 cards on a Sabretooth 990fx Rev 2 board to a Sabretooth Gen 3 board? Ive heard there is little difference for 1 card but for 2 overclocked im not sure, im newbie as and am in process of my first build, but just want to make wise choices, am looking at probly getting a fx 8300 for cpu, currently have storm trooper case, corsair ax1200i, m p hd 7970, ssds, hdds, keyboard, monitors etc pretty much everything bar cpu, mobo, and ram. Dont really like intel think I would rather overclock an Amd. Any help or advice greatly appreciated.


won't be anny different man you already have 16 lanes per gpu if I remember right


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JReiri*
> 
> Can anyone confirm the difference in performance from 2 overclocked Matrix Platinum HD 7970 cards on a Sabretooth 990fx Rev 2 board to a Sabretooth Gen 3 board? Ive heard there is little difference for 1 card but for 2 overclocked im not sure, im newbie as and am in process of my first build, but just want to make wise choices, am looking at probly getting a fx 8300 for cpu, currently have storm trooper case, corsair ax1200i, m p hd 7970, ssds, hdds, keyboard, monitors etc pretty much everything bar cpu, mobo, and ram. Dont really like intel think I would rather overclock an Amd. Any help or advice greatly appreciated.


Somebody told me to avoid the gen3. R2.0 is good enough with 32 lanes provided by the 32 lanes from the CPU.

Dont also discount the fact that PCIe 2.0 can still give out enough juice even for the latest top end cards. Difference is negligible.


----------



## Kuivamaa

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/NVIDIA/GTX_980_PCI-Express_Scaling/1.html

If PCIe 20x16 is practically as good as 3.0x16 with a GTX980 which is the fastest card on 1440p upwards in more than half the games out there, I don't see bandwidth being a serious problem for at least two more years.


----------



## miklkit

So the GD80 came back from RMA last night. That made me stop procrastinating and I layed the 9590 on the Sabertooth this morning. Didn't change anything in the bios. The temps took off and it froze when I tried IBT. The reset button got it going again and I found the EC sensor was enabled again. Disabled that and it didn't freeze but IBT ran hot and it was unstable anyway.

Next the bios was reset to defaults. It ran cool but was unstable. Hmm, the 9590 is unstable on the Sabertooth at default settings. So I started tweaking small things like turning off turbo and setting the ram to 1866mhz, and it is now stable. I got a baseline!

I wouldn't bother posting about this but, look at those gflops! This board never did that before.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> So the GD80 came back from RMA last night. That made me stop procrastinating and I layed the 9590 on the Sabertooth this morning. Didn't change anything in the bios. The temps took off and it froze when I tried IBT. The reset button got it going again and I found the EC sensor was enabled again. Disabled that and it didn't freeze but IBT ran hot and it was unstable anyway.
> 
> Next the bios was reset to defaults. It ran cool but was unstable. Hmm, the 9590 is unstable on the Sabertooth at default settings. So I started tweaking small things like turning off turbo and setting the ram to 1866mhz, and it is now stable. I got a baseline!
> 
> I wouldn't bother posting about this but, look at those gflops! This board never did that before.


I dont see any reference to what power supply you are using. Looks like you are using a air cooler not good on the 9590. Just an idea that processor can hit 225 Watt full tilt.


----------



## miklkit

My 850 watt gold Seasonic is still out on RMA so I am using a 620 watt bronze Seasonic. I am just tinkering with the Sabertooth for the day, then tomorrow the cool running GD80 is going back in.

With the GD80 air cooling is possible with the 9590, but I am having nothing but trouble with this Sabertooth. It is ok with the 8350 tho.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> My 850 watt gold Seasonic is still out on RMA so I am using a 620 watt bronze Seasonic. I am just tinkering with the Sabertooth for the day, then tomorrow the cool running GD80 is going back in.
> 
> With the GD80 air cooling is possible with the 9590, but I am having nothing but trouble with this Sabertooth. It is ok with the 8350 tho.


you said you adjusted ram.. then it became stable.. just sayin


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> you said you adjusted ram.. then it became stable.. just sayin


If I remember correctly I had gone too far and it went unstable. When I backed off it stabilized.

This 9590 is different from the 8350. It does not like FSB OCing at all. The 8350 was good till 253 while this 9590 is only up to 209 and that is wobbly. Plus it is using a lot of volts. It is taking the same vcore to get to 4.8 as the 8350 uses at 4.8.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> If I remember correctly I had gone too far and it went unstable. When I backed off it stabilized.
> 
> This 9590 is different from the 8350. It does not like FSB OCing at all. The 8350 was good till 253 while this 9590 is only up to 209 and that is wobbly. Plus it is using a lot of volts. It is taking the same vcore to get to 4.8 as the 8350 uses at 4.8.


unless you get lucky with the 9590 or unlucky with the 8350 (like I did) it is the exact same chip... I got fairly lucky, I can get mine to stabilize on all 8 cores at 5ghz at only 1.45 vcore (with ultra high llc it pushes up to 1.47ish) Air cooling with the 9590 is a nono lol.. .its really a nono on any vishera 8 core cpu when pushing clocks that fast... water is best and even then you want to shift upwards of the h100i cooler to do any more than stock safely on a 9590... but I suppose that's a matter of opinion, but I've had experience air cooling 8core FX chips and it was all bad..... literally all bad... only the very best even work "ok" for 4.5ghz - 4.8ghz range... from there it went turd fast... I highly recommend custom loop, and external rad if possible...

for the record, my daily OC is FSB based with 214mhz, but with minor adjustments to multies, I can run it at 250mhz just the same as my old 8350... but 214 just works best for me because of how the multipliers work out I can use all the power save features.... even turbo core if I like, but I don't know how to test that bit for stability so I haven't even tried to enable turbo core... not even sure how it would react lol.. might ought to try that one just to see.


----------



## miklkit

To each his own. I will never put water in a computer case again.

For the record I ran this 9590 at 5 ghz on air early this year. Stress testing with IBT AVX had it running at 59-62C and 45-50 in games.

Right now it is so unstable it has crashed 2 times just writing this post at 4.7 ghz.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> To each his own. I will never put water in a computer case again.
> 
> For the record I ran this 9590 at 5 ghz on air early this year. Stress testing with IBT AVX had it running at 59-62C and 45-50 in games.
> 
> Right now it is so unstable it has crashed 2 times just writing this post at 4.7 ghz.


crashing, eeesh that isn't good lol... seriously, sorry that your having troubles... ... mine stays in the 30's in games.... stressing it, the cores never get to 50.... like you said, to each his own, but I would never try to run a 9590 on air, unless I lived in a very cold place and had something like the top of the line noctua....


----------



## mus1mus

I'm calling shenanigans









1.512 VID on AIR,
Unless you have an ambient of 15C. Naah


----------



## miklkit

The vid? I don't know why that is 1.512 instead of 1.513. That's just an oddity of this 9590 and the Sabertooth I guess.

Are you wondering about the vcore and temps? You should spend some time in the air cooling forum. I spent a LOT of time there learning about air flow when I was struggling to keep 4.5 ghz cool.

Truthfully, most people put a big air cooler inside a closed box where it is just recirculating hot air around and overheating. You have to think of your case as a wind tunnel with some electronic stuff in it.

If you choose to disbelieve me, it is your choice and you won't be the first. I do not know how to convince you, but will post this real world screenie I took for a different project. The ambients here are 23-24C.


----------



## mus1mus

Not that I disbelieve.

Basing on my experience, A Silver Arrow with 3300 RPM 38mm Fans in an Open Case struggles to keep my Core Temps within 70 on AIDA 64 Stress Test at 1.512 VCore. That is not a Placebo.

If you know how much hotter IBT AVX over AIDA64, you'll see what I'm at. Though, I must note, someone said the GD80 can run an FX Octa by about 10C cooler than a Kitty. So really curious if you can back up the claim.

Your screen cap shows a real world usage scenario. Not IBT AVX temps. Cool. No problem with that. But til then, you can't convince me you can run an FX Octa with IBT AVX load Air Cooled past 1.5Volts Vcore.









Edit: I should of said, CPU has been lapped to flat out the surface, so does the cooler base that allowed me to run 1.512 Vcore than previously attained 1.488.

Picked up a USED 240mm 30mm thick rad kit for about 20$ more that what I paid for a Silver Arrow that gave more than 15C extra temp headroom. So there, the Silver Arrow now gathering dust. Very good cooler though.


----------



## miklkit

Awright, now you are just being a jerk. I have already posted numerous screenies in this thread showing the temps and volts when running IBT AVX. I was being very transparent about it and this rig's performance is well documented.

Go ahead and click on the screenie above your post, and then start clicking on the left arrow next to the picture. You will then go back in time and see over and over the same things as I tried different setups with the 8350 and Sabertooth. You can do that, can't you?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Awright, now you are just being a jerk. I have already posted numerous screenies in this thread showing the temps and volts when running IBT AVX. I was being very transparent about it and this rig's performance is well documented.
> 
> Go ahead and click on the screenie above your post, and then start clicking on the left arrow next to the picture. You will then go back in time and see over and over the same things as I tried different setups with the 8350 and Sabertooth. You can do that, can't you?


How'd I sound such a jerk there?

It's based on experience. And needs to be proven.

I just find it crap to preach 1.5 Vcore ob an Octa FX air cooled. Lots of new boys will expect the same. And will not help them.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> How'd I sound such a jerk there?
> 
> It's based on experience. And needs to be proven.
> 
> I just find it crap to preach 1.5 Vcore ob an Octa FX air cooled. Lots of new boys will expect the same. And will not help them.-
> -
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Awright, now you are just being a jerk. I have already posted numerous screenies in this thread showing the temps and volts when running IBT AVX. I was being very transparent about it and this rig's performance is well documented.
> 
> Go ahead and click on the screenie above your post, and then start clicking on the left arrow next to the picture. You will then go back in time and see over and over the same things as I tried different setups with the 8350 and Sabertooth. You can do that, can't you?
> 
> 
> 
> -
> -
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> You want proof? I claimed as much as 1.524vcore under load and showed screenies. Where did you get 1.6 from? Spams away!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Pretty SURE from YOUR SCREEN SHOTS YOUR VOLTAGE IS 1.58 so YOU DISPROVED YOURSELF



*ALWAYS USE THE VOLTAGE UNDER LOAD AS THE VOLTAGE YOU REFER TO*

LLC will add voltage.. I could have my computer boot at 1.52v as well if needed at 5.1GHz but it is not stable til 1.68v see why this makes a huge difference?


----------



## miklkit

That is idle volts and is irrelevant. In that screenie the running volts is 1.512 which was the goal. I never claimed 1.6v under load.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> That is idle volts and is irrelevant. In that screenie the running volts is 1.512 which was the goal. I never claimed 1.6v under load.


The max voltage says 1.58v in that screen shot.. that is what you need to go off of lol


----------



## miklkit

You are cherry picking your data. Other screenies show max vcore of 1.608v, not that it matters.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> You are cherry picking your data. Other screenies show max vcore of 1.608v, not that it matters.


I had just grabbed one not really cherry picking,, just didn't see a point to do em all


----------



## Dromihetes

What is the real voltage you are having ?!
Use a multimeter and find out.
Software readings are software readings.


----------



## mus1mus

I'm happy how my Vcore stays 0.012 lower at load than Idle. 0.025 From what I have set at the BIOS.



Noon time run thus the temps.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I'm happy how my Vcore stays 0.012 lower at load than Idle. 0.025 From what I have set at the BIOS.
> 
> 
> 
> Noon time run thus the temps.


77c holy... i wouldve crapped my pants







i assume those were spikes? impressive though considering your socket and cores stayed right there :0


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I'm happy how my Vcore stays 0.012 lower at load than Idle. 0.025 From what I have set at the BIOS.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: RUBBISH
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Noon time run thus the temps.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> 77c holy... i wouldve crapped my pants
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i assume those were spikes? impressive though considering your socket and cores stayed right there :0
Click to expand...

That's the VRM that crapped out.

I have a run with 25C ambient earlier.. Allowed me a 1.644 VCore.. lol Temps are still lower than what the pic shows.

For the Socket and Core Temps, try running AIDA 64 Stability test suite in the background to record the temps without starting it. Then Run IBT AVX. will show you a graph of how Socket and Core temps react along with IBT AVX Load..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I'm happy how my Vcore stays 0.012 lower at load than Idle. 0.025 From what I have set at the BIOS.
> 
> 
> 
> Noon time run thus the temps.
> 
> 
> 
> 77c holy... i wouldve crapped my pants
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i assume those were spikes? impressive though considering your socket and cores stayed right there :0
Click to expand...

when i was doing my 5.5 runs i shut down on thermals several times


----------



## wolfwalker

Quick Sabertooth RAID question. The onboard sb950 stuff, RAID 1 mirror, can one pull one drive from the pair and access it alone from another computer?
I'm sure this has been covered but hell if I can find it searching around. Putting together a Windows 8 box for work with a pair of 3tb drives and debating between
onboard and trying the Storage Spaces thing or whatever it's call. That I know will let a drive move elsewhere and be accessed alone, by Win8 anyway.
Off hand I prefer chipset fake-raid, but I've never had to recover one. If the board dies in a couple years it might be a hassle to find another 990fx/sb950 quickly
if that's required. Thoughts?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> Quick Sabertooth RAID question. The onboard sb950 stuff, RAID 1 mirror, can one pull one drive from the pair and access it alone from another computer?
> I'm sure this has been covered but hell if I can find it searching around. Putting together a Windows 8 box for work with a pair of 3tb drives and debating between
> onboard and trying the Storage Spaces thing or whatever it's call. That I know will let a drive move elsewhere and be accessed alone, by Win8 anyway.
> Off hand I prefer chipset fake-raid, but I've never had to recover one. If the board dies in a couple years it might be a hassle to find another 990fx/sb950 quickly
> if that's required. Thoughts?


Your best bet might be to find Acronis disk image and buy a copy use that to do your back ups. Raid information is stored on the chip in your case. In the case of a server it is stored on the raid controller. So your outcome would be if one drive goes bad the computer keeps working but diminished capacity until the bad drive is replaced.With the Acronis the back up drive is always available for restore from back up you will need to create a bart back up dvd.There is information on Acronis on how to do it. or to be double safe you could do both.


----------



## wolfwalker

Yeah, it's going to be backed up to a NAS nightly, but I need to find a simple way to recover hardware wise since the box is going to live on the other side of the country. If one can take a single drive and access it from the raidset created by the onboard stuff I can work with that, but if it has to be on an identical sb950 to be accessible that might be over the heads of the locals. Looks like the windows storage manager will let one take a drive from a mirror pair and use it just like a regular single drive on any computer.


----------



## hurricane28

I have question for the Sabertooth R2.0 users.

I noticed that the sound is very bad on this particular motherboard, it could be the drivers tho so maybe some people here have other experience with it?

Thnx in advance.


----------



## Dromihetes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I have question for the Sabertooth R2.0 users.
> 
> I noticed that the sound is very bad on this particular motherboard, it could be the drivers tho so maybe some people here have other experience with it?
> 
> Thnx in advance.


The sound is as you hear it ,CRAP









Get some old (modded or not) X-Fi Xtreme Music or some Xonar D1 and you will be fine sound wise.

I was surprised as well having in mind the price of the board.Some cheap Gigabyte boards have sometimes better on-board sound.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dromihetes*
> 
> The sound is as you hear it ,CRAP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get some old (modded or not) X-Fi Xtreme Music or some Xonar D1 and you will be fine sound wise.
> 
> I was surprised as well having in mind the price of the board.Some cheap Gigabyte boards have sometimes better on-board sound.


Yes indeed.

Coming from my Gigabyte UD5 i was little shocked because the Gigabyte has much much better audio than the Asus cards.

the Gigabyte had 108db signal to noise ratio and the Asus is just standard an i could not find anything about it except its 7.1 and Realtek ALS 892 audio codec.

I will get an Creative X-FI card soon but i was wondering if there is anyone who has the same problems as me and some how managed to make it sound better because the equalizer makes it even worse than better.

Its just like you said CRAP


----------



## zila

The onboard sound on my Sabertooth died a few weeks ago. I noticed it was making static sounds on shut down before it died.

So I just popped in a Xonar DG PCI sound card and we're good to go again. I really like the headphone amplifier on it.

It's a shame about the onboard sound quality of the Sabertooth board. They really should have added something better.


----------



## Dromihetes

It s not only the Signal to Noise ratio it s the dynamics ,clarity and the sound levels as well.It is installed on the mobo just to be there


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> The onboard sound on my Sabertooth died a few weeks ago. I noticed it was making static sounds on shut down before it died.
> 
> So I just popped in a Xonar DG PCI sound card and we're good to go again. I really like the headphone amplifier on it.
> 
> It's a shame about the onboard sound quality of the Sabertooth board. They really should have added something better.


Sorry to hear man, i have an static hissing sound as well sometimes when i shut down my system.. hope it can hold until i get new sound card lol otherwise i return this board and get a new one, i hate things that break down man.

I agree that they should put a better sound card on it but unfortunately they didn't. Its cheaper than my Gigabyte UD5 but still they could do better than this piece of rubbish audio.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> The onboard sound on my Sabertooth died a few weeks ago. I noticed it was making static sounds on shut down before it died.
> 
> So I just popped in a Xonar DG PCI sound card and we're good to go again. I really like the headphone amplifier on it.
> 
> It's a shame about the onboard sound quality of the Sabertooth board. They really should have added something better.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dromihetes*
> 
> It s not only the Signal to Noise ratio it s the dynamics ,clarity and the sound levels as well.It is installed on the mobo just to be there


Yes true, i do like some more power tho due to my good head phones which i use the most to be honest when i listen to music.

SNR is not the clarity but my speakers and head phone sounds a lot better with more power. Its the same with a car, my 1.3 engine does not like to drive 100 MPH like my parents 2.0 V-Tec does.

Gigabyte has Dolby surround and such and it sounds awesome for on board to be honest, it can even compare to other external cards. So why Asus cheap out on the Audio is a mystery to me and rather strange.


----------



## warpuck

I know this is the Sabertoof thingy. Well my R1 died, so should I by an R2 or Crosshair V Formula -Z?

The formula Z is supposed to have better sound.

I do have a 270 watt 4.1 sound system to plug it into.

so if the fans are loud the speakers are louder, lol



This is about as good as it gets with a MSI 890FX-GD70 and a Sythe Shuriken Rev B with a corsair 120mm fan

Not bothering with water just yet. This case does OK but not when you pile on the OC juice.

So another case with better flow. The Smilodon is OK for an i5 but does not move enough air for 8 core CPUs

I think I will replace it with a Thermaltake V71

The CPU is a 8350 that came in a can

http://hothardware.com/Reviews/AMD-FX-8350-Vishera-8Core-CPU-Review/

4.7 Ghz was the daily driver speed on water with a 120mm radiator. That was good enough for who it is for.

This time I am going bigger with the radiator.


----------



## Mega Man

sorry i am confused? it sounds as if you have a question but none was asked ?


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> I know this is the Sabertoof thingy. Well my R1 died, so should I by an R2 or Crosshair V Formula -Z?
> 
> The formula Z is supposed to have better sound.
> 
> I do have a 270 watt 4.1 sound system to plug it into.
> 
> so if the fans are loud the speakers are louder, lol
> 
> 
> 
> This is about as good as it gets with a MSI 890FX-GD70 and a Sythe Shuriken Rev B with a corsair 120mm fan
> 
> Not bothering with water just yet. This case does OK but not when you pile on the OC juice.
> 
> So another case with better flow. The Smilodon is OK for an i5 but does not move enough air for 8 core CPUs
> 
> I think I will replace it with a Thermaltake V71
> 
> The CPU is a 8350 that came in a can
> 
> http://hothardware.com/Reviews/AMD-FX-8350-Vishera-8Core-CPU-Review/
> 
> 4.7 Ghz was the daily driver speed on water with a 120mm radiator. That was good enough for who it is for.
> 
> This time I am going bigger with the radiator.


Before you ask... get yourself a decent sound card and forget about the onboard one. Period.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Hey everyone just an update: Last month I asked about problems I was having with my SSD, and was given the awesome advice by a couple of you to update the firmware for my SSD. Well here we are a month later and the computer is still going with zero issues and is completely set back up with everything installed







Thanks again for the advice that got me to this point


----------



## sjgusmc21

I have searched this thread (and the net) and did not find a answer that worked for me. I have the 990FX R2.0 board with a AMD FX 8210 CPU (about to be upgraded to the 8350) overclocked to 3887.7 (which is another issue with it resetting my OC). Here are my specs:

16 GB HyperX Ram
Samsung 840 SSD Hd
3 other various HD's
XFX R9 290 Core Video Card
1 PCI 4 port usb
1000 W 80 Plus Coolmaster PSU

I have tried everything I can to get my PC into sleep mode. When I select sleep, the hard drive (ssd) shutdown but the power to the PC stays on. I have a custom water loop. I went from a Gigabyte 970 board to this one, but didn't have any issues with the pc going to sleep. When I do this, I have to either hold the power button down until it shuts off, then press it again (sometimes this works) or I have to unplug the PSU in order for my pc to completely reboot.

I have tried the settings recommended in windows power settings. I have tried performance and reliability modes with the samsung magician software, and I have tried every setting I can think of in the bios, which btw I updated to 5102 last night, but still didn't make a difference.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am no noob, but this problem has almost go the best of me.

Thank you.


----------



## davcc22

Sounds liable of the power saving stuff for sleep is disabl
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sjgusmc21*
> 
> I have searched this thread (and the net) and did not find a answer that worked for me. I have the 990FX R2.0 board with a AMD FX 8210 CPU (about to be upgraded to the 8350) overclocked to 3887.7 (which is another issue with it resetting my OC). Here are my specs:
> 
> 16 GB HyperX Ram
> Samsung 840 SSD Hd
> 3 other various HD's
> XFX R9 290 Core Video Card
> 1 PCI 4 port usb
> 1000 W 80 Plus Coolmaster PSU
> 
> I have tried everything I can to get my PC into sleep mode. When I select sleep, the hard drive (ssd) shutdown but the power to the PC stays on. I have a custom water loop. I went from a Gigabyte 970 board to this one, but didn't have any issues with the pc going to sleep. When I do this, I have to either hold the power button down until it shuts off, then press it again (sometimes this works) or I have to unplug the PSU in order for my pc to completely reboot.
> 
> I have tried the settings recommended in windows power settings. I have tried performance and reliability modes with the samsung magician software, and I have tried every setting I can think of in the bios, which btw I updated to 5102 last night, but still didn't make a difference.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am no noob, but this problem has almost go the best of me.
> 
> Thank you.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sjgusmc21*
> 
> I have searched this thread (and the net) and did not find a answer that worked for me. I have the 990FX R2.0 board with a AMD FX 8210 CPU (about to be upgraded to the 8350) overclocked to 3887.7 (which is another issue with it resetting my OC). Here are my specs:
> 
> 16 GB HyperX Ram
> Samsung 840 SSD Hd
> 3 other various HD's
> XFX R9 290 Core Video Card
> 1 PCI 4 port usb
> 1000 W 80 Plus Coolmaster PSU
> 
> I have tried everything I can to get my PC into sleep mode. When I select sleep, the hard drive (ssd) shutdown but the power to the PC stays on. I have a custom water loop. I went from a Gigabyte 970 board to this one, but didn't have any issues with the pc going to sleep. When I do this, I have to either hold the power button down until it shuts off, then press it again (sometimes this works) or I have to unplug the PSU in order for my pc to completely reboot.
> 
> I have tried the settings recommended in windows power settings. I have tried performance and reliability modes with the samsung magician software, and I have tried every setting I can think of in the bios, *which btw I updated to 5102 last night*, but still didn't make a difference.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am no noob, but this problem has almost go the best of me.
> 
> Thank you.


Coolermaster V1000??

If so, then might be PSU related. Switched from a Silent Pro M2 to the V1000 and weird thing happen. I cannot get the computer to fully turn off.

Fans spinning, though I can say that the Mobo had fully went asleep.

You meant BIOS 2501 right?


----------



## sjgusmc21

Yes, you are correct. Sorry. 2501. That thought has crossed my mind, but I just don't understand why. When I select shutdown, it does. So what is the difference 'hw and sw' wise in the commands?

And yes, Cooler Master 1000w, RS-A00-EMBA.

And, I don't think it is the PSU as it worked fine with my old Gigabyte 970 mobo.


----------



## wolfwalker

Built another 9590/Sabertooth box for work, 16gig cas7. Same guts as mine just less GPU and cheap(er) PSU.
Went together under Win 8.1 pretty well. Upgraded my own box to 8 too, after ditching the metro stuff it seems fine.
Had a few oddities just after install but they straightened out, same on both. Had a hard time getting the AMD
AHCI driver to install but eventually got them both, before and after Crystal Diskmark picked up a little bit on both,
Evo 840 in one and Crucial MX100 in the other. Made a mirror of two 3tb drives on the new box with some HGST
NAS drives using the Storage Spaces thing, nice interface, easy to setup. I want to buy more drives for my own box now.

Also on an AMD note, bought a a8-6410 based laptop cheap, needed big screen cheap for work.
It's comical how empty inside it is with that huge plastic body. Put an Evo 840 in it and 8gig of ram,
runs pretty decent. First newer comp I've used other than my FX boxes, for the little heat and power it makes it
ain't bad at all but it's sure a lot slower than an 8350 or better. Reinstalling 8 on the lappy with the bios coded
key was actually painless once I found the utility from MS to create the correct install media.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

random question... if you forget to turn off cpu volts monitoring and also forget to increase power capabilities.... can you get a black screen shutdown by passing 1.6vcore... or passing the watt limits of the cpu at stock? ... what all can cause a black screen shutdown... btw I had to turn off the power at the psu and wait for standby power to die before it'd try again.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> random question... if you forget to turn off cpu volts monitoring and also forget to increase power capabilities.... can you get a black screen shutdown by passing 1.6vcore... or passing the watt limits of the cpu at stock? ... what all can cause a black screen shutdown... btw I had to turn off the power at the psu and wait for standby power to die before it'd try again.


normally having to reset the power supply is ocp...


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> random question... if you forget to turn off cpu volts monitoring and also forget to increase power capabilities.... can you get a black screen shutdown by passing 1.6vcore... or passing the watt limits of the cpu at stock? ... what all can cause a black screen shutdown... btw I had to turn off the power at the psu and wait for standby power to die before it'd try again.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> normally having to reset the power supply is ocp...
Click to expand...

Could be OCP. But it should be at LOAD for OCP to be kicking in.

If you meant at BIOS, setting up 1.6 Vcore and it shuts down, could be heat.

I would get that at 1.625 before with a 240 rad. Now getting it at 1.7 at the BIOS. 1.685 though, runs fine at ambient of 25C IBT AVX..


----------



## Benjiw

Lol check this out, temps on these CPUs are an actual joke!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Lol check this out, temps on these CPUs are an actual joke!


70 with a couple seconds of stress sweet


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> 70 with a couple seconds of stress sweet


I was stressing at very high after a voltage tweak and took this screen cap after I got back from leaving it to idle for a while, that cluster you see on the graph is from opening photoshop etc to take screen caps of the temp I think, unsure exactly what, but the 72 is a spike as the temp sat firmly at 64c across the test.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I was stressing at very high after a voltage tweak and took this screen cap after I got back from leaving it to idle for a while, that cluster you see on the graph is from opening photoshop etc to take screen caps of the temp I think, unsure exactly what, but the 72 is a spike as the temp sat firmly at 64c across the test.


64 isn't too bad...I ran mine at 4.2 on stock cooler in the low 60s for a few weeks after my h80i died


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> 64 isn't too bad...I ran mine at 4.2 on stock cooler in the low 60s for a few weeks after my h80i died


I know it isn't too bad, but I'd still want it cooler, the only way to do that though is pump, cpu block, vrm block and nb block which until I get a job isn't happening, that will reduce temps by about 5 degrees oh and some more rad space, either a externally mounted 360 with my 240s or another 240, won't be installing the new stuff until next year, have 8 SP120's and a 240 on my wish list for xmas lol!


----------



## TRusselo

i get quite concerned with my VR/NB temps too, they hit the 80s when gaming if I run my 8320 at 4.4 GHz. high 60s/low 70s at 4.0ghz

Moving to watercooling really stops air flow around the VRs/NB. I had been running an H50 until yesterday...


[Build Log] Heatkiller Rev 3.0 & GPU-X3 79X0 & GPU-X3 R9 280x


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> i get quite concerned with my VR/NB temps too, they hit the 80s when gaming if I run my 8320 at 4.4 GHz. high 60s/low 70s at 4.0ghz
> 
> Moving to watercooling really stops air flow around the VRs/NB. I had been running an H50 until yesterday...
> 
> 
> [Build Log] Heatkiller Rev 3.0 & GPU-X3 79X0 & GPU-X3 R9 280x


front and back fans CAN net you 10c on socket and quite a bit on vrms


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> i get quite concerned with my VR/NB temps too, they hit the 80s when gaming if I run my 8320 at 4.4 GHz. high 60s/low 70s at 4.0ghz
> 
> Moving to watercooling really stops air flow around the VRs/NB. I had been running an H50 until yesterday...
> 
> 
> [Build Log] Heatkiller Rev 3.0 & GPU-X3 79X0 & GPU-X3 R9 280x


Depending on your overclock settings, temps can be reduced too, I hope you;re using HWinfo to monitor those temps as asus thermal software is shocking. As fain fans front and back can reduce temps but the fan on the back of my socket isn't doing much tbh lol.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Depending on your overclock settings, temps can be reduced too, I hope you;re using HWinfo to monitor those temps as asus thermal software is shocking. As fain fans front and back can reduce temps but the fan on the back of my socket isn't doing much tbh lol.


in my case the fan on the back (offset to the right so the dead spot in the fan is between socket and vrm backplate netted me another 5c on socket) I went from 20c'ish over core to within 5c of core 90% of the time mobo and case results may vary


----------



## TRusselo

This case has 3 front fans, and a 140 will be installed in the back when i find one that isnt gawd awful ugly and loud. It will be pointed inward to keep pressure on exhausting through the rad.

Anyone else get 20degree difference between CPU and CPU socket? (I think that 52 deg ITE CPU is the socket, right?)


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> This case has 3 front fans, and a 140 will be installed in the back when i find one that isnt gawd awful ugly and loud. It will be pointed inward to keep pressure on exhausting through the rad.
> 
> Anyone else get 20degree difference between CPU and CPU socket? (I think that 52 deg ITE CPU is the socket, right?)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Pretty much my socket at idle sits at 26-33c then under load goes to 64c, when I get my new SP120s I'll use one of my gentle typhoons on the socket etc.

EDIT:
Sorry misread, my socket can be 26 and my cpu itself reads as low as 8c so yea I guess so.


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> This case has 3 front fans, and a 140 will be installed in the back when i find one that isnt gawd awful ugly and loud. It will be pointed inward to keep pressure on exhausting through the rad.
> 
> Anyone else get 20degree difference between CPU and CPU socket? (I think that 52 deg ITE CPU is the socket, right?)


Yes that 52 degree is the socket. Get a fan on the VRM's and back of the socket, it will lower VRM and socket temps. Use your stock fan that came with the heatsink.

I put my stock fan on the back of the socket and on the VRM's I used this http://www.performance-pcs.com/xigmatek-xsf-f8252-extreme-silent-80mm-case-fan-retail-sleeved.html

My socket and VRM temps are within a few degrees of my core temps during stressing. I stress with IBT AVX maximum for 10 passes. Currently 4800 Mhz at 1.572 v. under load


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> i get quite concerned with my VR/NB temps too, they hit the 80s when gaming if I run my 8320 at 4.4 GHz. high 60s/low 70s at 4.0ghz
> 
> Moving to watercooling really stops air flow around the VRs/NB. I had been running an H50 until yesterday...
> 
> 
> [Build Log] Heatkiller Rev 3.0 & GPU-X3 79X0 & GPU-X3 R9 280x


A fa on the rear,

And fans on the VRM's and northbridge help.


Mike the Owl


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> A fa on the rear,
> 
> And fans on the VRM's and northbridge help.
> 
> 
> Mike the Owl


Looks like someone got drunk and dumped a box full of fans in your rig.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> This case has 3 front fans, and a 140 will be installed in the back when i find one that isnt gawd awful ugly and loud. It will be pointed inward to keep pressure on exhausting through the rad.
> 
> Anyone else get 20degree difference between CPU and CPU socket? (I think that 52 deg ITE CPU is the socket, right?)
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Yes that 52 degree is the socket. Get a fan on the VRM's and back of the socket, it will lower VRM and socket temps. Use your stock fan that came with the heatsink.
> 
> I put my stock fan on the back of the socket and on the VRM's I used this http://www.performance-pcs.com/xigmatek-xsf-f8252-extreme-silent-80mm-case-fan-retail-sleeved.html
> 
> My socket and VRM temps are within a few degrees of my core temps during stressing. I stress with IBT AVX maximum for 10 passes. Currently 4800 Mhz at 1.572 v. under load
Click to expand...

VRM fan + Back Fan would significantly drop that socket temp.

At 1.65 Vcore, Core and Socket are within each other. I use AIDA 64 Stress Test to monitor. You can see the temperatures on the same time lapse. HWInfo just gives you minimum and Maximum Values. You can graph but not like an AIDA 64 Graph.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Lol check this out, temps on these CPUs are an actual joke!


That's just a spike. But I would also add that some apps really put out more heat than IBT or Prime. CB is one. Video Rendering too. That's one reason why I opted to go use IBT than previously AIDA64 to stress my system. AIDA lags in seeing the maximum heat output of your system.


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Looks like someone got drunk and dumped a box full of fans in your rig.


I like fans, and cable ties,


----------



## TRusselo

umm yeah.. i would rather burn this board to the ground than put a fan behind the mobo in this case.

I didnt just spend 800 US on really nice watercooling to dump some fans in the case, rather watercool the vrms and nb


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> umm yeah.. i would rather burn this board to the ground than put a fan behind the mobo in this case.
> 
> I didnt just spend 800 US on really nice watercooling to dump some fans in the case, rather watercool the vrms and nb


Go Watercool them if you can find ways to do so..









I've seen a few people who did the same on the kitty on this forum. So yeah.


----------



## davcc22

here we go how to water cool the vrms and north bridge


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> umm yeah.. i would rather burn this board to the ground than put a fan behind the mobo in this case.
> 
> I didnt just spend 800 US on really nice watercooling to dump some fans in the case, rather watercool the vrms and nb


I linked you to that thread before, if you want to do it then do it, lord knows I want to when funds permit!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davcc22*
> 
> here we go how to water cool the vrms and north bridge


+1









too lazy to search..


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> umm yeah.. i would rather burn this board to the ground than put a fan behind the mobo in this case.
> 
> I didnt just spend 800 US on really nice watercooling to dump some fans in the case, rather watercool the vrms and nb


to each there own







I simply used fans I had elsewhere....I personally care about cost/performance ratio myself perhaps I wouldn't feel this way if I had the funds laying around


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> to each there own
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I simply used fans I had elsewhere....I personally care about cost/performance ratio myself perhaps I wouldn't feel this way if I had the funds laying around


This rig will be rebuilt soon to allow my girlfriend to do video edits and rendering on not to mention gaming etc so I plan on modding it extensively, I don't exactly have funds laying around so to speak but when this rig ends up being a media player/maker I want it to perform as well as possible while ensuring it's life span as much as I can. Who knows maybe I could get my better half into overclocking? haha!


----------



## hucklebuck

Suit yourself. It is a nice looking rig you got there.

I did think about waterblocking the NB and VRM's I figured the cost would be around $100 for me. I thought about it for awhile and got a $10 fan to put on it and it keeps my VRM's, socket, and cores within a couple of degrees of each other. Works for me. I'm a person that thinks of function before form. It really don't look that bad either.

Hope it works out for you, it will be a really sweet looking rig when your done.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Suit yourself. It is a nice looking rig you got there.
> 
> I did think about waterblocking the NB and VRM's I figured the cost would be around $100 for me. I thought about it for awhile and got a $10 fan to put on it and it keeps my VRM's, socket, and cores within a couple of degrees of each other. Works for me. I'm a person that thinks of function before form. It really don't look that bad either.
> 
> Hope it works out for you, it will be a really sweet looking rig when your done.


I'm a design student so looks and function both come at a premium







I agree with you a fan is plenty good enough but considering I have a custom loop, then there is no real reason why the VRM and NB shouldn't be cooled by water which will greatly reduce temps and reduce noise.


----------



## TRusselo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I'm a design student so looks and function both come at a premium
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with you a fan is plenty good enough but considering I have a custom loop, then there is no real reason why the VRM and NB shouldn't be cooled by water which will greatly reduce temps and reduce noise.


Thats my thought as well, not to mention there is only 5/8 of an inch behind my motherboard.
Perhaps after christmas i will get the next waterblocks and upgrade all my fittings to compression, or play with some rigid tubing...

Funny, the VRM temps hitting 80 degrees and throwing warnings from Asus AI suite is what kicked off my recent push into cooling my system. I Found that in the BIOS, with LineLoadCalibration set to AUTO (default setting), it was showing as EXTREME through the AI software in windows and was making the VRMS heat up an extra 10-15 degrees. Setting that to the minimum/disabled? setting in the bios dropped my VRMs down to the 65 degree range. After that I paid more attention to my system temps after that. Teased myself with all the pretty pictures on this site until one night, i just up and bought everything I needed on frozencpu... there may have been smoke-ables involved inhibiting my self control that night.


----------



## Vrbaa

Hi all,

Is 1.456V completely safe for daily use (4.5GHz)? Temperatures are ok.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> Thats my thought as well, not to mention there is only 5/8 of an inch behind my motherboard.
> Perhaps after christmas i will get the next waterblocks and upgrade all my fittings to compression, or play with some rigid tubing...
> 
> Funny, the VRM temps hitting 80 degrees and throwing warnings from Asus AI suite is what kicked off my recent push into cooling my system. I Found that in the BIOS, with LineLoadCalibration set to AUTO (default setting), it was showing as EXTREME through the AI software in windows and was making the VRMS heat up an extra 10-15 degrees. Setting that to the minimum/disabled? setting in the bios dropped my VRMs down to the 65 degree range. After that I paid more attention to my system temps after that. Teased myself with all the pretty pictures on this site until one night, i just up and bought everything I needed on frozencpu... there may have been smoke-ables involved inhibiting my self control that night.


I don't smoke lol but i'm slightly derranged so it helps, set LLC to very high and OC away, once stable turn all the green settings (lol pun intended) back on, my temps at idle keep everything nice and cool now so my fans don't need to be on more than 25% and given they are gentle typhoons that spin upto 1900rpm you can imagine the noise. Rigid tubing is a must for me next, really wish I had gone with it to start with.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Is 1.456V completely safe for daily use (4.5GHz)? Temperatures are ok.


if you can keep it cool and dont reach hardwares limits the sky is the limit







Nearly everyone here runs at that voltage or more


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> if you can keep it cool and dont reach hardwares limits the sky is the limit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nearly everyone here runs at that voltage or more


+1 ^

some of my OC profiles run at 1.55v with very high LLC so yeah... lots of us run that way... the 24/7 use OC I have is 5.009ghz and has 1.45v in bios, but amounts to about 1.46 in windows... my last chip I ran 24/7 for nearly a year at 1.52v @ 4.8ghz


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> Thats my thought as well, not to mention there is only 5/8 of an inch behind my motherboard.
> Perhaps after christmas i will get the next waterblocks and upgrade all my fittings to compression, or play with some rigid tubing...
> 
> Funny, the VRM temps hitting 80 degrees and throwing warnings from Asus AI suite is what kicked off my recent push into cooling my system. I Found that in the BIOS, with LineLoadCalibration set to AUTO (default setting), it was showing as EXTREME through the AI software in windows and was making the VRMS heat up an extra 10-15 degrees. Setting that to the minimum/disabled? setting in the bios dropped my VRMs down to the 65 degree range. After that I paid more attention to my system temps after that. Teased myself with all the pretty pictures on this site until one night, i just up and bought everything I needed on frozencpu... there may have been smoke-ables involved inhibiting my self control that night.


Ditch the AI Suite, it's buggy and gives false readings. Use HWiNFO64, much better software.

Do like Benjiw and set LLC to Very High, works well on this board. Extreme setting is for exotic cooling ( DICE, LN2)


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> +1 ^
> 
> some of my OC profiles run at 1.55v with very high LLC so yeah... lots of us run that way... the 24/7 use OC I have is 5.009ghz and has 1.45v in bios, but amounts to about 1.46 in windows... my last chip I ran 24/7 for nearly a year at 1.52v @ 4.8ghz


Wish my 8350 would go 5ghz at 1.45v! it runs at 1.584v underload in windows.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Wish my 8350 would go 5ghz at 1.45v! it runs at 1.584v underload in windows.


apparently I got very lucky... after seeing some recent posts in the 5ghz 24/7 club showing unstable 9590's over 1.5v, I consider myself very lucky.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> apparently I got very lucky... after seeing some recent posts in the 5ghz 24/7 club showing unstable 9590's over 1.5v, I consider myself very lucky.


I want dibs when you upgrade to something else!


----------



## sjgusmc21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sjgusmc21*
> 
> I have searched this thread (and the net) and did not find a answer that worked for me. I have the 990FX R2.0 board with a AMD FX 8210 CPU (about to be upgraded to the 8350) overclocked to 3887.7 (which is another issue with it resetting my OC). Here are my specs:
> 
> 16 GB HyperX Ram
> Samsung 840 SSD Hd
> 3 other various HD's
> XFX R9 290 Core Video Card
> 1 PCI 4 port usb
> 1000 W 80 Plus Coolmaster PSU
> 
> I have tried everything I can to get my PC into sleep mode. When I select sleep, the hard drive (ssd) shutdown but the power to the PC stays on. I have a custom water loop. I went from a Gigabyte 970 board to this one, but didn't have any issues with the pc going to sleep. When I do this, I have to either hold the power button down until it shuts off, then press it again (sometimes this works) or I have to unplug the PSU in order for my pc to completely reboot.
> 
> I have tried the settings recommended in windows power settings. I have tried performance and reliability modes with the samsung magician software, and I have tried every setting I can think of in the bios, which btw I updated to 5102 last night, but still didn't make a difference.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am no noob, but this problem has almost go the best of me.
> 
> Thank you.


So, after sending ASUS technical support a detail explanation of my problem, this is what they wrote back to me:

_Thank you for contacting ASUS Technical Support.

I understand your issue and I will be more than happy to assist you in this reagrd.
*
S**** kindly clear the CMOS and reinstall your operating system.*

If you need any further assistance from our end, kindly contact the support lines below my signature._

You have to be kidding me. Wow. Guess I will be going back to my Gigabyte board. Really didn't expect this type of reply.

Any yes, I did that.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sjgusmc21*
> 
> So, after sending ASUS technical support a detail explanation of my problem, this is what they wrote back to me:
> 
> _Thank you for contacting ASUS Technical Support.
> 
> I understand your issue and I will be more than happy to assist you in this reagrd.
> *
> S**** kindly clear the CMOS and reinstall your operating system.*
> 
> If you need any further assistance from our end, kindly contact the support lines below my signature._
> 
> You have to be kidding me. Wow. Guess I will be going back to my Gigabyte board. Really didn't expect this type of reply.
> 
> Any yes, I did that.


to be fair you didn't say you had done those things how can they know what everything is.... everything to my father is looking at it and going the problem goes away but everything to me is troubleshooting until I find the culprit


----------



## TRusselo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Ditch the AI Suite, it's buggy and gives false readings. Use HWiNFO64, much better software.
> 
> Do like Benjiw and set LLC to Very High, works well on this board. Extreme setting is for exotic cooling ( DICE, LN2)


I only use AI suite to monitor bios settings and on-board temp sensors while in windows. using HWinfo for other sensors. HWinfo gets laggy if i use it for the board sensors, just as it warns it would.

High LLC causes my VRMs to hit their warning limit of 80C. It runs fine at 4.4Ghz at default LLC


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> I only use AI suite to monitor bios settings and on-board temp sensors while in windows. using HWinfo for other sensors. HWinfo gets laggy if i use it for the board sensors, just as it warns it would.
> 
> High LLC causes my VRMs to hit their warning limit of 80C. It runs fine at 4.4Ghz at default LLC


HWinfo is fine for me, AI suite used to bare face lie to me. I wouldn't trust AI suite even if it was the only thing I could use.


----------



## sjgusmc21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> to be fair you didn't say you had done those things how can they know what everything is.... everything to my father is looking at it and going the problem goes away but everything to me is troubleshooting until I find the culprit


You are correct. I did not state that. However, I feel that they should have at least given me a list of options or areas to trouble shoot without just stating the standard answer. I think that was a very lazy way of them dealing with my question. You might disagree and that is your opinion. But I paid for t his board, and with that I expect some type of descent/indepth answer.


----------



## hurricane28

Asus AI suite is rubbish and gives false readings.

If you want to read your system the proper way with good readings i would highly suggest to use HWINFO64 because that is the only program that can read AMD systems properly.

You do want to disable the EC sensor tho because it gives errors and performance loss in some applications.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sjgusmc21*
> 
> You are correct. I did not state that. However, I feel that they should have at least given me a list of options or areas to trouble shoot without just stating the standard answer. I think that was a very lazy way of them dealing with my question. You might disagree and that is your opinion. But I paid for t his board, and with that I expect some type of descent/indepth answer.


that rarely happens.... Most companies have a script the "support" people have to go by...A checklist of sorts for every issue they've come across....Most of the time the "support" people have never even used the products they support...it's once in a blue moon you find a tech support that understands what you've tried and that it was extensive enough to bypass all the checklist crap...I once called dell tech support and asked a question which I had narrowed the problem down to on a dvd rom needed the low level filters changed out as it was reading as a cdrom not a dvd rom...I told them everything I had done to troubleshoot it down to that being the issue.... Still had to go through the checklist crap starting with... Have you checked to see if the cables are secure? And have you made sure it is not a cdrom drive? lol. I could've jumped of a bridge... After two hours of checklist bs the guy goes ok now we are going to try to remove the low level filters and reaquire them....go figure. ..


----------



## mus1mus

Hmmmm..

Ultra LLC seemed to be giving cooler temps indeed.

Thanks @Benjiw +1


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that rarely happens.... Most companies have a script the "support" people have to go by...A checklist of sorts for every issue they've come across....Most of the time the "support" people have never even used the products they support...it's once in a blue moon you find a tech support that understands what you've tried and that it was extensive enough to bypass all the checklist crap...I once called dell tech support and asked a question which I had narrowed the problem down to on a dvd rom needed the low level filters changed out as it was reading as a cdrom not a dvd rom...I told them everything I had done to troubleshoot it down to that being the issue.... Still had to go through the checklist crap starting with... Have you checked to see if the cables are secure? And have you made sure it is not a cdrom drive? lol. I could've jumped of a bridge... After two hours of checklist bs the guy goes ok now we are going to try to remove the low level filters and reaquire them....go figure. ..


Funny whenever I go for RMA's I never get that.. its mainly I go this this this is done.. and if they want to keep trying to go through the checklist I tell them how it doesn't makes sense to go over it as the other thing I checked would have already narrowed it down further


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Funny whenever I go for RMA's I never get that.. its mainly I go this this this is done.. and if they want to keep trying to go through the checklist I tell them how it doesn't makes sense to go over it as the other thing I checked would have already narrowed it down further


well this was probably 8 years maybe more ago and Dell at that point had outsourced nearly every call center to India now I have nothing against India but most of those they tasked could not speak English very well and apparently weren't very knowledgeable about the products they were supporting you could tell they were reading from a manual and refused to skip the steps I had already tried...This may have changed but I know then dells support was a nightmare...I know they have to have a version for people with little knowhow about pcs but they shouldn't treat everyone as ignorant as a result







I have to say I've only called support once since then for any product and thankfully I got a knowledgeable member... granted it was the cable company but yeah...


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Hmmmm..
> 
> Ultra LLC seemed to be giving cooler temps indeed.
> 
> Thanks @Benjiw +1


The chip can't cool down at idle properly when using high as it's getting more volts than it would under load, that means your coolant will get warm and when you stress test, even warmer, I have ultra on and all but 2 of the energy saving settings so when my cpu is at idle my system creates no heat pretty much.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Hmmmm..
> 
> Ultra LLC seemed to be giving cooler temps indeed.
> 
> Thanks @Benjiw +1
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> *The chip can't cool down at idle properly when using high* as it's getting more volts than it would under load, *that means your coolant will get warm* and when you stress test, even warmer, I have ultra on and all but 2 of the energy saving settings so when my cpu is at idle my system creates no heat pretty much.
Click to expand...

The kind of LOAD at Idle cannot heat up the coolant.









Probably depends on your rad space. But on mine, the Delta Temperature is actually quite low even at 1.65 Vcore. Mind you, most of you guys on the States and Europe will probably have 10C or more LESS ambient temp than I have. As an example, Bone Stock Settings cannot elevate my Load temps from Idle temps.







But that can also be an attribute to AMD's Temp Calculation Algorithms.









Will be fine tuning the settings later. But so far, up to 5C less temps at same voltage level by changing to Ultra seems so good.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Would anyone know if there is an asus rep on ocn.. I have being with an advanced replacement for over 3 months now.. the past 3 weeks alone I have been trying to find out about the return of my money which asus still has.. no one goves me andwers and they all tell me they are escalating the ticket and I will get a call and email which neither has come within this 3 week time. I keep getting transferred to the Philippines and none of them have had any respect towards me and want to argue about the specifics when in fact I just want my money. I have returned the defective board which it was a hassel just getting a return label in the first place.. I feel the us support is no longer there which saddens me as whenever I had to deal with them there no issues.. at this rate id almost rather deal with Indian outsourcing than Philippines which is quite sad....


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I want dibs when you upgrade to something else!


ok lol.. but I don't see me upgrading for quite some time... I don't think any new cpu's will come out for this board with any better performance... so this is probably end of the road hardware for me... till I get a whole new system some years down the road.


----------



## sjgusmc21

So I have tried numerous times to reply to the email and I get 'Servers are busy, please try again'....this for over 24 hours. Also, sometimes it is in Russian, or Eastern European lettering. Holy crap. I don't drink any kool-aid and I am no more loyal to any brand, but I will give those that serve the dollars I spent for them, with respect until pooped on. Asus and I ARE not off to a good start. Once my Gigabyte UD7 comes back, this board will be going up for sale. Enough. Those of you that enjoy this board, I am happy for you. But I just don't have the time to put up with BS answers like this.

Thanks for the replies whether we agreed or not.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I work in a large factory that deals with a variety of customers... that being said, I suspect that ASUS has had a recent bad batch of something.... why? Well, at our plant, 1 bad part gets RMA'd pretty quick, but when we have multiple issues from multiple customers the RMA process gets bogged down and due to the cost they start "checking into" each RMA in more detail before jumping to action. Likely something like that has happened with ASUS as well as dealing with foreign support who only can "follow protocol" not a good situation at all, and will likely lose them many customers. Hopefully ASUS will deal with this quickly if that's the case, I know at our plant when we have multiple failures like that the people responsible usually get fired or at least suspended for not following quality procedures.


----------



## miklkit

Do a forum search using : asus rma. I found complaints going back to 2011.

Personally, the 1st Sabertooth I got was warped so badly I immediately RMAd it to Newegg. The 2nd one was not so bad and I was able to pull it flat with the mounting screws. After getting it good and hot it is almost flat now, but still not as flat as the GD80. That warpage can not be good for solid contact between the VRMs and the "heat sink".

Does anyone know where the ASUS RMA center is physically located? I seem to remember it being somewhere in the San Francisco Bay area.


----------



## Mega Man

To everyone whining about rmas ( I never said there were not legitimate complaints ) see my sig. Great quote for you


----------



## sjgusmc21

As I am 51 years old now, I have learned how and what to spend my money on. I don't see anyone here 'whining' about RMA's, but voicing their opinions and explaining there issues. This might be a ASUS thread, but only the inexperienced have blind loyalty. I am loyal to my wife and kids.....not some freak'n motherboard company that I spent money on. I use to believe, and still for the most part do, that you get what you pay for. But that is truly not always the case any longer. If the manufacturer creates a faulty item, then let them know. If not, then they will continue to do so and still make a profit. Ask Gateway what happened and their 'loyal' customers revolted.

I really do like my Asus motherboard, but if should work the way it was designed to. If not, then it is faulty. And when I contact them with a detailed explanation, and they in turn replay with some BS answer, then yes, I get pissed.

Don't take no from any company and make them follow thru with what you paid for.

If not, then you deserve what you get. Crap.


----------



## Kryton

I have a CPU-Z validation from awhile back that shows these boards are indeed good for OC'ing but know I'm not looking to get into the club, just to contribute to the conversation here. Did these with just two cores going for obvious reason.

http://valid.canardpc.com/32wfxc
Yes, that's me.

Submission for a 1M Super PI run:
http://hwbot.org/submission/2521465_bones_superpi___1m_fx_8320_11sec_578ms

Would you guys believe I got this one "Open Box" from the egg?

I sure did and it's been rock-solid the entire time from when I unboxed it until today, that being well over a year now.
I know you'll have duds in the bunch regardless of who makes it but so far this along with all other Asus boards I've had over the years have been good to me and as long as they continue to be, I'll keep using them.

If not I'll get something else....


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sjgusmc21*
> 
> As I am 51 years old now, I have learned how and what to spend my money on. I don't see anyone here 'whining' about RMA's, but voicing their opinions and explaining there issues. This might be a ASUS thread, but only the inexperienced have blind loyalty. I am loyal to my wife and kids.....not some freak'n motherboard company that I spent money on. I use to believe, and still for the most part do, that you get what you pay for. But that is truly not always the case any longer. If the manufacturer creates a faulty item, then let them know. If not, then they will continue to do so and still make a profit. Ask Gateway what happened and their 'loyal' customers revolted.
> 
> I really do like my Asus motherboard, but if should work the way it was designed to. If not, then it is faulty. And when I contact them with a detailed explanation, and they in turn replay with some BS answer, then yes, I get pissed.
> 
> Don't take no from any company and make them follow thru with what you paid for.
> 
> If not, then you deserve what you get. Crap.


I agree you should get what you paid for...If I had a support issue I would have someone on the phone and make it right before I stopped hounding them.... I understand how these companies get to the point of generic answers and sweeping under the rug tactics though because they have so many people who overclock too far and damage this or overheat this component or have water cooling fiasco and want to rma...rma is designed for faulty equipment not for things people damage themselves...thus is why so many companies are hard to rma with because they hope if they make it hard you will give up...I'm definitely not lumping you into the self damaging category just stating some reasons why it's becoming more prevalent... doesn't make it right on their part... Also I've noticed those who are angry and reflect that in their correspondence also get given the run around more...Again not saying you did so but a lot of people do this....But as it seems asus needs a lot of work in the rma department lately... More company's need to follow phanteks and swiftechs lead on customer support and service


----------



## sjgusmc21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I agree you should get what you paid for...If I had a support issue I would have someone on the phone and make it right before I stopped hounding them.... I understand how these companies get to the point of generic answers and sweeping under the rug tactics though because they have so many people who overclock too far and damage this or overheat this component or have water cooling fiasco and want to rma...rma is designed for faulty equipment not for things people damage themselves...thus is why so many companies are hard to rma with because they hope if they make it hard you will give up...I'm definitely not lumping you into the self damaging category just stating some reasons why it's becoming more prevalent... doesn't make it right on their part... Also I've noticed those who are angry and reflect that in their correspondence also get given the run around more...Again not saying you did so but a lot of people do this....But as it seems asus needs a lot of work in the rma department lately... More company's need to follow phanteks and swiftechs lead on customer support and service


We are on the same sheet of music. No arguments here.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sjgusmc21*
> 
> As I am 51 years old now, I have learned how and what to spend my money on. I don't see anyone here 'whining' about RMA's, but voicing their opinions and explaining there issues. This might be a ASUS thread, but only the inexperienced have blind loyalty. I am loyal to my wife and kids.....not some freak'n motherboard company that I spent money on. I use to believe, and still for the most part do, that you get what you pay for. But that is truly not always the case any longer. If the manufacturer creates a faulty item, then let them know. If not, then they will continue to do so and still make a profit. Ask Gateway what happened and their 'loyal' customers revolted.
> 
> I really do like my Asus motherboard, but if should work the way it was designed to. If not, then it is faulty. And when I contact them with a detailed explanation, and they in turn replay with some BS answer, then yes, I get pissed.
> 
> Don't take no from any company and make them follow thru with what you paid for.
> 
> If not, then you deserve what you get. Crap.


lets try this again
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> To everyone whining about rmas ( I never said there were not legitimate complaints ) see my sig. Great quote for you


this is the quote in question
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Also rma wise, regardless of what vendor used it's always like getting a tooth pulled imo.


if this is brand loyalty .... then i dont know how not to be


----------



## Minotaurtoo

http://valid.x86.fr/l5xauj I posted this link in the 5ghz 24/7 club... thought I'd post here as well... this is a dump of what my saberkitty did to my 9590 in auto OC mode from the easy bios screen... I did have to go into advanced and set llc up to ultra on cpu, but after I did that it passed IBT AVX on standard easy... tested 5 runs on very high and it passed... even if it were to fail later on, still not bad for a auto clock lol... I'll test it out more later and if anyone wants screen shots I'll try to remember to get them then... think maybe it down clocked my memory a bit much though so I'll be setting it back to near stock speeds before I test more... still a 5+ghz auto OC...wow.. the fact it even booted with that kind of auto OC tripped me out..
edit: here is a quick standard run... the gflops are low I think because of memory being downclocked... wonder why it downclocked the mem so much?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/l5xauj I posted this link in the 5ghz 24/7 club... thought I'd post here as well... this is a dump of what my saberkitty did to my 9590 in auto OC mode from the easy bios screen... I did have to go into advanced and set llc up to ultra on cpu, but after I did that it passed IBT AVX on standard easy... tested 5 runs on very high and it passed... even if it were to fail later on, still not bad for a auto clock lol... I'll test it out more later and if anyone wants screen shots I'll try to remember to get them then... think maybe it down clocked my memory a bit much though so I'll be setting it back to near stock speeds before I test more... still a 5+ghz auto OC...wow.. the fact it even booted with that kind of auto OC tripped me out..
> edit: here is a quick standard run... the gflops are low I think because of memory being downclocked... wonder why it downclocked the mem so much?


my saber had mine all jacked up and my ram running at 1333 lol


----------



## miklkit

My 9590 was not stable at default setings at all with the Sabertooth. After I got the 8350 as far as it would go, with a LOT of help from the community here, I tried it again.

At 4.8ghz the thing popped. It was like someone had flipped the switch on the PSU as the tower shut down. With the 8350 back in and no other changes it ran fine. I have never blown a cpu before.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> My 9590 was not stable at default setings at all with the Sabertooth. After I got the 8350 as far as it would go, with a LOT of help from the community here, I tried it again.
> 
> At 4.8ghz the thing popped. It was like someone had flipped the switch on the PSU as the tower shut down. With the 8350 back in and no other changes it ran fine. I have never blown a cpu before.


wow, me neither... that's weird... did you see any scorch marks on the cpu? I hope you RMA'd it at least....


----------



## miklkit

There are no marks on it that I can see. My wife knows me pretty well and bought a two year warranty with it. I haven't called yet but do intend to.

Meanwhile the 8350 has had a motherboard die under it and then had me running it at 5 ghz on air. It is still chugging along at 4.8 ghz right now.


----------



## Mega Man

well it shouldnt of, a 9590 is not hurting the sabertooth at all

considering the volts i have put through my sabertooth it would be fine @ stock on a 9590


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I've had 0 problems with mine... just bad luck maybe... but I've pushed the crap out of mine.. .to the limits of my PSU actually... going to fix that at Christmas... getting a nice HX850 to replace this old Ultra LSP 750... I suppose that should do the trick right?


----------



## Mega Man

personally i would recommend a 1kw

8350 assume 300w
7950 assume 300w
that leaves room for another vid card for you, up to you really


----------



## miklkit

My 9590 had been slowly dying for over 6 months, but I just couldn't believe it was the cpu and tried to blame everything else. 2 psu, 2 motherboards, different ram, I looked everywhere. It was just a coincidence that it blew on the Sabertooth as it was gonna blow anyway.

I started it off at all default settings and it was unstable, so I played with it until it was stable enough at 4.7 ghz, then went to 4.8. I believe it was on its 3rd pass on IBT AVX when it popped. Here is the last quickie 4.7 run. You can see I was being easy on it.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> My 9590 had been slowly dying for over 6 months, but I just couldn't believe it was the cpu and tried to blame everything else. 2 psu, 2 motherboards, different ram, I looked everywhere. It was just a coincidence that it blew on the Sabertooth as it was gonna blow anyway.
> 
> I started it off at all default settings and it was unstable, so I played with it until it was stable enough at 4.7 ghz, then went to 4.8. I believe it was on its 3rd pass on IBT AVX when it popped. Here is the last quickie 4.7 run. You can see I was being easy on it.


That is unfortunate mate. Hoping you can get a replacement for it.

Im really gonna get myself a new chip. I can see some degradation on mine. Was able to bench past 5.1 before with much lower Voltage but I cant get to 5.0 now. Could be the abuse I put it through.

Thing is, I want a better chip. So I need to make sure I can get some assurance from the store.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> That is unfortunate mate. Hoping you can get a replacement for it.
> 
> Im really gonna get myself a new chip. I can see some degradation on mine. Was able to bench past 5.1 before with much lower Voltage but I cant get to 5.0 now. Could be the abuse I put it through.
> 
> Thing is, I want a better chip. So I need to make sure I can get some assurance from the store.


go for years without hearing a "I killed it story" and now I get two in a row lol. Soooo, what exactly does it take to degrade these chips then.


----------



## Mega Man

i was pushing obscene amounts of cpu/nb


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> go for years without hearing a "I killed it story" and now I get two in a row lol. Soooo, what exactly does it take to degrade these chips then.


I was on air before and was cruising at 65 with AIDA 64. That translates more with IBT or other programs that stresses the chip. Yes, OCCT.

It has two weak cores in the same module. I can disable that module. But wont make sense.

Even now, my chip is badly abused. +plus, my chip survived a dead UD3.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i was pushing obscene amounts of cpu/nb


Gone past 1.6 on mine. But I know yours went over that..


----------



## Minotaurtoo

well, this 9590 is to be my last am3 chip.... assuming nothing unexpected happens of coarse... so I don't want to intentionally do something to destroy it... so far it hasn't seen over 60C core temps nor over 1.6 vcore when trying for max OC, nor over 1.4 cpu/nb and that was only for a short bit when I tested the auto OC... don't know why it set cpu/nb so high... I really like this chip too... very high clocks at nice and low volts...


----------



## warpuck

I guess I will have to join on that one
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> well, this 9590 is to be my last am3 chip.... assuming nothing unexpected happens of coarse... so I don't want to intentionally do something to destroy it... so far it hasn't seen over 60C core temps nor over 1.6 vcore when trying for max OC, nor over 1.4 cpu/nb and that was only for a short bit when I tested the auto OC... don't know why it set cpu/nb so high... I really like this chip too... very high clocks at nice and low volts...


Only because NewEgg Is sold out of 9370s


----------



## philhalo66

What exactly does the NB 1.8V do?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> What exactly does the NB 1.8V do?


I can't tell you exactly but if you set it to 1.805v or 1.810v it will reduce your bouncy frequency readings.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> What exactly does the NB 1.8V do?


i wont phrase this right, but it is the voltage that fixes the FSB freq


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I can't tell you exactly but if you set it to 1.805v or 1.810v it will reduce your bouncy frequency readings.


what do you mean bouncy freq?, mine are pretty rock solid except for CnQ
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i wont phrase this right, but it is the voltage that fixes the FSB freq


it will fix the forced OC on the FSB? I notice regardless what settings i use it auto OC's an extra 4-5MHz.

Just one last question why is the CPU/NB voltage auto 1.45V?


----------



## TRusselo

fixed mine. thanks

but...
hmm just noticed this tid-bit of info after running 3d mark...



should I be looking to RMA my PSU (thermaltake smart series M 750 modular) due to it failing? or am I drawing too much power under load? 8320 @ 4.4 Ghz 1.25V (stock voltage) and r9 280x 8+8pin and 7950 8+6pin @ 1125/1300 also stock voltage.

Crap PSU or too little of PSU?


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> fixed mine. thanks
> 
> but...
> hmm just noticed this tid-bit of info after running 3d mark...
> 
> 
> 
> should I be looking to RMA my PSU (thermaltake smart series M 750 modular) due to it failing? or am I drawing too much power under load? 8320 @ 4.4 Ghz 1.25V (stock voltage) and r9 280x 8+8pin and 7950 8+6pin @ 1125/1300 also stock voltage.
> 
> Crap PSU or too little of PSU?


Ignore that, I've learned something over the years software voltage readings are very rarely accurate if you really want to see your voltages use a multimeter or a PSU tester. 750W is probably cutting it close but you should be Ok i recommend this to see how much power your pulling (its a bit over exaggerated but it will give you general idea) http://www.extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp


----------



## TRusselo

yeah ive seen that and researched into it. i know im at the edge of maxing it out.

the GPU with a TDP of 217 W can pull 260 W after setting the TDP limit in CCC to +20%
i have 2 of those 520W easy @ OC 1100/1300
plus my 8320 is 125W stock at 3.5/4.0Turbo but running at 4.4 solid so easy 150W
the sabertooth board is probably a good 75W easy with fans. the 990FX chip is 18W alone
thats 745W
plus a water pump....
but i dont have fans on my GPUS anymore!...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I can't tell you exactly but if you set it to 1.805v or 1.810v it will reduce your bouncy frequency readings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what do you mean bouncy freq?, mine are pretty rock solid except for CnQ
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i wont phrase this right, but it is the voltage that fixes the FSB freq
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> it will fix the forced OC on the FSB? I notice regardless what settings i use it auto OC's an extra 4-5MHz.
> 
> Just one last question why is the CPU/NB voltage auto 1.45V?
Click to expand...

because it does , it is actually supposed to be 1.1 but you can bump it to 1.2
as to the 1.8v it can help
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> yeah ive seen that and researched into it. i know im at the edge of maxing it out.
> 
> the GPU with a TDP of 217 W can pull 260 W after setting the TDP limit in CCC to +20%
> i have 2 of those 520W easy @ OC 1100/1300
> plus my 8320 is 125W stock at 3.5/4.0Turbo but running at 4.4 solid so easy 150W
> the sabertooth board is probably a good 75W easy with fans. the 990FX chip is 18W alone
> thats 745W
> plus a water pump....
> but i dont have fans on my GPUS anymore!...


i highly doubt oyur sabertooth is pulling 750w


----------



## TRusselo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i highly doubt oyur sabertooth is pulling 750w


slow your reading... and typing. just slow down
75W for the saberkitty
745W total system

I only have a 750W power supply. how does it make any sense if i thought my board was 750 alone. do you guys think im that ******ed?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> slow your reading... and typing. just slow down
> 75W for the saberkitty
> 745W total system
> 
> I only have a 750W power supply. how does it make any sense if i thought my board was 750 alone. do you guys think im that ******ed?


I doubt your unit is pulling that much power tbh, I have a 750 PSU and I have an overclocked 6870, 8x fans, overclocked CPU, sabrekitty, 3 x hard drives, 1x SSD and 4 sticks of ram and it's fine.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i highly doubt oyur sabertooth is pulling 750w
> 
> 
> 
> slow your reading... and typing. just slow down
> 75W for the saberkitty
> 745W total system
> 
> I only have a 750W power supply. how does it make any sense if i thought my board was 750 alone. do you guys think im that ******ed?
Click to expand...

That was a typo due to autocorrect (ironically it fixes that and not your) . It was supposed to say 75w

Which I doubt


----------



## TRusselo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I doubt your unit is pulling that much power tbh, I have a 750 PSU and I have an overclocked 6870, 8x fans, overclocked CPU, sabrekitty, 3 x hard drives, 1x SSD and 4 sticks of ram and it's fine.


not that im trying to argue because i dont disagree. but one brand of PSU does not equal another PSU, mine was cheap, and looking back to the original question of the voltage drop i supposedly experienced in HWinfo and doing the math, it COULD be a possibility that I am at the limit of this PSU. Would you throw another high wattage device in your system as is?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> That was a typo due to autocorrect (ironically it fixes that and not your) . It was supposed to say 75w
> 
> Which I doubt


and those are all theoretical max values provided by manufacturers, except the mobo, but the 990fx chip is 18W, so just to satisfy you lets call the mobo 40W. compared to the theoretical max output of the PSU...

takes me from 5W of headroom to 40W . wow thank you. I was PWND


----------



## miklkit

Meh. Get a UPS. Mine has a led screen that shows all kinda neat stuff. Like right now it is idling while drawing 140-145 watts from the wall. That is the whole system.

Back when I was running X2 6970s in this rig under full load it would pull over 700 watts from the wall.


----------



## wolfwalker

My 9590 dual 280x monstrosity idles at 198 per my UPS. I try and not look when it's working hard..
And that's with all the power management stuff on and all is stock.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> My 9590 dual 280x monstrosity idles at 198 per my UPS. I try and not look when it's working hard..
> And that's with all the power management stuff on and all is stock.


That's about right.

I am at 197-200 watts idle and under full load i get around 550-600 depending on the overclock.

CPU is at 5Ghz and GPU is stock or a mild overclock.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> That's about right.
> 
> I am at 197-200 watts idle and under full load i get around 550-600 depending on the overclock.
> 
> CPU is at 5Ghz and GPU is stock or a mild overclock.


I have too many screens and fans.. .mine idles near 300 watts total system draw... and quickly surges to near 700 with just IBT running lol...fully loaded gpu and cpu will top 800 on occasion.. but then mines OC'd a bit on all accounts.


----------



## wolfwalker

FWIW I"ve got an FT02 with three stock 180's, a 120 up top, a 10K raptor two ssd's and another 7200rpm or two at my 200 watt idle.
Last time I looked the secondary vid card powered down and fan off'd when not in use.


----------



## miklkit

My system currently maxxes out in the 440-460 watt range with spikes as high as 470 watts. But it is badly GPU bound. That poor little 280X can't keep up.


----------



## El-Fuego

Using killawatt I got these a while ago before adding my 2nd gpu and couple more fans , only the case components without the monitor/other peripherals:

Idle:


[email protected]:


----------



## Vlackrs

I just installed the AMD Chipset Drivers 12/8/2014 64b (AMD Catalyst Omega) cuz i have my sabertooth 990fx r1.0 and my SSD new hyperx 3k v3.0 (i'm new with SSDs), doing a few test i got this

Same test for both.

*AMD AHCI Driver*

http://imgur.com/LBL3nM5

*Win 8.1 AHCI Driver*

http://imgur.com/EBHuscC

I dont know which one i have to choose.


----------



## hucklebuck

Where is the download to the latest 990FX Chipset drivers?


----------



## mirzet1976

here http://support.amd.com/en-us/download/desktop?os=Windows+8.1+-+64


----------



## Slam-It

Hi folks, I follow the forum for quiet a while now so i decided to finally sign up
And here´s my first post:

Just a simple question. Does the 16GB Corsair Vengeance Pro DDR3-2133 RAM work properly on the Sabertooth 990fx R2.0 *without* any changes to the RAM settings like timing etc.? I know its says max 1866 in the motherboard description.
I´m asking this because i don´t have the hardware here to try it. I have no problems changing the settings if it doesn´t work.

Thanks for reply


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slam-It*
> 
> Hi folks, I follow the forum for quiet a while now so i decided to finally sign up
> And here´s my first post:
> 
> Just a simple question. Does the 16GB Corsair Vengeance Pro DDR3-2133 RAM work properly on the Sabertooth 990fx R2.0 *without* any changes to the RAM settings like timing etc.? I know its says max 1866 in the motherboard description.
> I´m asking this because i don´t have the hardware here to try it. I have no problems changing the settings if it doesn´t work.
> 
> Thanks for reply


you would have to set the rated timing/ voltage in the bios as it defaults to 1600 I think unless you previously had ram installed then it stays at whatever settings you had for said ram... When you say 16gb I assume you mean 2 X 8gb which should work fine if you manually set the voltage and timings to the rated spec in bios... The saber doesn't auto configure well at all its a great board but most settings should be configured manually...auto settings had my ram at 1333mhz, cpu auto voltage was 1.42, cpu nb was at 1.4!, and all llc settings were extreme


----------



## Slam-It

Thanks for the fast response.
Yeah, I read some things about the sabertooths "auto configure skills" so I already thought so







But for me that´s no real problem.
Maybe i will upgrade to this board in a few weeks, i got a pretty good offer on one









Greetings


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slam-It*
> 
> Thanks for the fast response.
> Yeah, I read some things about the sabertooths "auto configure skills" so I already thought so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But for me that´s no real problem.
> Maybe i will upgrade to this board in a few weeks, i got a pretty good offer on one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greetings


well its a quality board with good power delivery and quality heat sinks....plus it's second to one for 83xx and 9xxx series processors


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slam-It*
> 
> Hi folks, I follow the forum for quiet a while now so i decided to finally sign up
> And here´s my first post:
> 
> Just a simple question. Does the 16GB Corsair Vengeance Pro DDR3-2133 RAM work properly on the Sabertooth 990fx R2.0 *without* any changes to the RAM settings like timing etc.? I know its says max 1866 in the motherboard description.
> I´m asking this because i don´t have the hardware here to try it. I have no problems changing the settings if it doesn´t work.
> 
> Thanks for reply


100% of mobos need help with faster ram

please note 100% is not accurate but is to me


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 100% of mobos need help with faster ram
> 
> please note 100% is not accurate but is to me


ironically my fatality board did a good job with my 1866 automatically set it to the xmp profile that matched the stock specs...I was kinda shocked hadn't had a motherboard ever do that


----------



## Archea47

Any reason not to believe this would work with the sabertooth spacing?

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3068

Planning on getting the blocks and active back plates


----------



## philhalo66

What's the word on Asus RMA support lately? My sabertooth died and im going to RMA it.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> What's the word on Asus RMA support lately? My sabertooth died and im going to RMA it.


Hahaha, from what I hear from this forum it's very bad!


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Hahaha, from what I hear from this forum it's very bad!


why is it funny im probably out nearly 200 dollars?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Hahaha, from what I hear from this forum it's very bad!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> why is it funny im probably out nearly 200 dollars?


Ok So for ASUS support if you are in the US YOU MUST call around 10 - 2 CST for the best support. they got right on my issues.. otherwise they are all rolling over to Indonesian support which is terrible.. nothing against the people here but seriously terrible support from ASUS Indonesia


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Ok So for ASUS support if you are in the US YOU MUST call around 10 - 2 CST for the best support. they got right on my issues.. otherwise they are all rolling over to Indonesian support which is terrible.. nothing against the people here but seriously terrible support from ASUS Indonesia


Okay so I'll call at the times given thanks. What are the chances they will try and weasel out of an RMA i mean i been reading the horror stories about ASUS damaging the board just to get out of an RMA.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Okay so I'll call at the times given thanks. What are the chances they will try and weasel out of an RMA i mean i been reading the horror stories about ASUS damaging the board just to get out of an RMA.


US support is very good about things.. I only have issues when I get sent over seas


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> US support is very good about things.. I only have issues when I get sent over seas


This is my first ever RMA so hopefully it doesn't leave a bad taste in my mouth.


----------



## sjgusmc21

Give them a chance. If they hose you over, then give them hell. I have had some 'growing' pains with my sabertooth, but it is performing as it should now. Their tech support really pissed me off...giving me BS answers over, and over until I said to hell with them. Amazing how it kind of 'fixed' itself. At first I thought it was the bios update, but now I am not for sure. Regardless, I will give them a fair shake until done otherwise. Now XSPC...that is another story for another day.......

Afterthought: I have always been a Gigabyte guy, but I am actually going to sell my 990FX UD7 on fleabay. The sabertooth is doing well, so will stick with if for now.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sjgusmc21*
> 
> Give them a chance. If they hose you over, then give them hell. I have had some 'growing' pains with my sabertooth, but it is performing as it should now. Their tech support really pissed me off...giving me BS answers over, and over until I said to hell with them. Amazing how it kind of 'fixed' itself. At first I thought it was the bios update, but now I am not for sure. Regardless, I will give them a fair shake until done otherwise. Now XSPC...that is another story for another day.......
> 
> Afterthought: I have always been a Gigabyte guy, but I am actually going to sell my 990FX UD7 on fleabay. The sabertooth is doing well, so will stick with if for now.


Oh I'll give them a try but if they hose me over I'll give them hell and if that don't work I've always got an xbox.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> why is it funny im probably out nearly 200 dollars?


Why is everyone so sensetive on this forum? I wasn't laughing at you I was laughing at ASUS customer support! Do yourself a favour and get a camera with Macro settings, rip up a bit of paper and write today's date on it with your name, address etc and take pictures of every square piece of the board EVERYTHING! and upload them to your Ticket when ever you get it or email them (forgot how ASUS do it). This will stop them turning around when it's damaged either in transit or when dave at the warehouse drops it and says "it was already like that!". Macro is a really good close up setting so will capture every circuit line etc.


----------



## Mega Man

@Benjiw you just were the sensitive one in a different thread !


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> @Benjiw you just were the sensitive one in a different thread !


Which one buddy?


----------



## Mega Man

i wont mention it again, but seriously recommend looking in the mirror on that comment


----------



## Mord

I hope your disease will not catch me. My saber run well for now.


----------



## mus1mus

Im sure I saw that.

And you gotta understand, one or two experienced regulars, stop arguing what you knew.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i wont mention it again, but seriously recommend looking in the mirror on that comment


If it's a direct relation to 2 regulars arguing that is a different kettle of fish, I don't compare my own father's suicide to that of the mentality of someone running a poor overclock, furthermore I don't value pc parts above a life if that's what you're reffering to.

How ever I did overreact in the watercooling club as I got a bit hot under the collar over DI water and Distilled due to several sources all telling me different things and with confusion comes frustration. So yes your point is a valid one but I don't bite peoples heads off over "haha" when referring to the state of ASUS and their current RMA process.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> If it's a direct relation to 2 regulars arguing that is a different kettle of fish, I don't compare my own father's suicide to that of the mentality of someone running a poor overclock, furthermore I don't value pc parts above a life if that's what you're reffering to.
> 
> How ever I did overreact in the watercooling club as I got a bit hot under the collar over DI water and Distilled due to several sources all telling me different things and with confusion comes frustration. So yes your point is a valid one but I don't bite peoples heads off over "haha" when referring to the state of ASUS and their current RMA process.


So how about dem ASUS boards.. I think I got my final RMA .. this one is solid and working as it should YAY!!!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> So how about dem ASUS boards.. I think I got my final RMA .. this one is solid and working as it should YAY!!!


Sweet, hope you have it easy from now on! If I'm honest with you, I still crave the RoG Crosshair.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Sweet, hope you have it easy from now on! If I'm honest with you, I still crave the RoG Crosshair.


My the saberkitty is pretty good, and yeah I have everything dialed down so woot!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> My the saberkitty is pretty good, and yeah I have everything dialed down so woot!


I'm still learning stuff atm and my cooling is a weak point right now. But I've always wanted a RoG board since the AM3 days, I nearly bought a 1090T back in the day but never had cash back then.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I'm still learning stuff atm and my cooling is a weak point right now. But I've always wanted a RoG board since the AM3 days, I nearly bought a 1090T back in the day but never had cash back then.


the differences are really not that much between the two boards.. once you see what the saber can do youll understand


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> the differences are really not that much between the two boards.. once you see what the saber can do youll understand


Care to expand on this? Always eager to learn more.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Care to expand on this? Always eager to learn more.


about the only differences is that there are a few more settings to tweak.. which are more minor ones.. then the on board audio is a lot better,

However for overclocking.. you are not going to see much off a difference unless you are doing exotic cooling like dice and LN2


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> about the only differences is that there are a few more settings to tweak.. which are more minor ones.. then the on board audio is a lot better,
> 
> However for overclocking.. you are not going to see much off a difference unless you are doing exotic cooling like dice and LN2


Doesn't the RoG board have more features and stuffs? May need to look into this a lot more I think.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> about the only differences is that there are a few more *settings to tweak.. which are more minor ones* .. then the on board audio is a lot better,
> 
> However for overclocking.. you are not going to see much off a difference unless you are doing exotic cooling like dice and LN2
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Doesn't the RoG board have more features and stuffs? May need to look into this a lot more I think.
Click to expand...

Read please, yes it is a better board as its their flagship, however you buying it over the sabertooth is not going to make any difference TBH, you are going to be thermally limited, unless you somehow are a complete audiophile and have a crazy cool sound set up which likely youd have a additional card for it.. again.. not going to see much of a difference.

looks cooler I think, and yes slightly better components.. again,.. when comparing to the sabertooth.. not much of a difference thats all I am saying as it seems you didn't read what I had posted so I just bolded it for you


----------



## mus1mus

Just the audio I suppose.

But, serious audiophiles won't care about on board audio 99% of the time.

If you have seen red's review, the kitty posted a better overclock. On same chip, cooling and setup. That is against all AM3 boards available.


----------



## Benjiw

Ah ok, thanks guys, rep added for the both of you, I'll stick with the kitty then, might paint the ugly green bits!







Just finishing my cable management on my build then I'll post up some pics in my build log. Need to start packing for moving out so not much I can actually do until 10 weeks from now.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Ben, there is a reason the saberkitty is so popular lol... : ) it was down to it or the CHV... and there were many reviews that said the kitty was more user friendly so I went with it and 0 regrets since


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> Ben, there is a reason the saberkitty is so popular lol... : ) it was down to it or the CHV... and there were many reviews that said the kitty was more user friendly so I went with it and 0 regrets since


Haha hey i'm not disputing anything, just always wanted one. I've always wanted am Aprillia RS125 even though they're notorious for being high maintenance etc.


----------



## Archea47

The only thing I would take over my 'Kitty for AMD is a Kitty Gen3 ... just so I could take out the battery without removing a video card


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> The only thing I would take over my 'Kitty for AMD is a Kitty Gen3 ... just so I could take out the battery without removing a video card


Someone told me to avoid the gen3 when I am asking for recommendations from the FX Thread.









The thing has issues. Could be related to the PLX chip they added for PCIe 3.0 compatibility (I'm not sure). And If it occurs in your area, the Gen 3.0 is no longer offered for sale. (that guy mentioned, ASUS recalled them off the shelves)

Stuck to me as I can pick up the gen3 cheaper than the R2.0 that time.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Someone told me to avoid the gen3 when I am asking for recommendations from the FX Thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing has issues. Could be related to the PLX chip they added for PCIe 3.0 compatibility (I'm not sure). And If it occurs in your area, the Gen 3.0 is no longer offered for sale. (that guy mentioned, ASUS recalled them off the shelves)
> 
> Stuck to me as I can pick up the gen3 cheaper than the R2.0 that time.


I KNEW IT! I knew there was a reason they're not about or replaced the gen 2!


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Haha hey i'm not disputing anything, just always wanted one. I've always wanted am Aprillia RS125 even though they're notorious for being high maintenance etc.


you and I both brotha lol, I knew a guy that had one, I rode it and man it was a dream may not have been same model but you getthe point
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Someone told me to avoid the gen3 when I am asking for recommendations from the FX Thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing has issues. Could be related to the PLX chip they added for PCIe 3.0 compatibility (I'm not sure). And If it occurs in your area, the Gen 3.0 is no longer offered for sale. (that guy mentioned, ASUS recalled them off the shelves)
> 
> Stuck to me as I can pick up the gen3 cheaper than the R2.0 that time.


gen 3 plx chip really there was no difference in performance, not sure about issues but the cards even up to this point don't fully saturate the 2.0 lanes, yet, we will see in the next batch of cards


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Haha hey i'm not disputing anything, just always wanted one. I've always wanted am Aprillia RS125 even though they're notorious for being high maintenance etc.


As someone who had one I ended up "overclocking" it with polini 154cc big bore kit. Good for 40 horses!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> As someone who had one I ended up "overclocking" it with polini 154cc big bore kit. Good for 40 horses!


would of been tempted to find a naughty 250 motor which was the RGV suzuki motor if i remember correctly and sling it into the RS frame.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> would of been tempted to find a naughty 250 motor which was the RGV suzuki motor if i remember correctly and sling it into the RS frame.


the mental images that came to my mind were absolutely hilarious wile I read that.. can't go into detail.. mind needs to remain out of the gutter..


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> the mental images that came to my mind were absolutely hilarious wile I read that.. can't go into detail.. mind needs to remain out of the gutter..


Haha yea don't need anymore warnings on here due to my sarcasm and profanity so let's not go there!









Talking about bikes!


----------



## umeng2002

Is anyone running a FX-8370, FX-8370e, FX-8320e, or the FX-9xxx on the Rev1. board?

Asus hasn't issued a BIOS update since 2012, and I was wondering if there were any issues with the "new" FX chips.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Is anyone running a FX-8370, FX-8370e, FX-8320e, or the FX-9xxx on the Rev1. board?
> 
> Asus hasn't issued a BIOS update since 2012, and I was wondering if there were any issues with the "new" FX chips.


there is little difference in these chips other than the binning process.... The e series will run lower tdp and voltages at lower end of the clocks this makes no guarantee they will be better at higher clocks though we have seen them generally be a little better.... There should be no issues to speak of....


----------



## TRusselo

so whats the 3 pin header up top beside the 2 4 pin CPU fan headers?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> so whats the 3 pin header up top beside the 2 4 pin CPU fan headers?


diagnostic port for asus support... it's unmarked and I was told to be sure to not connect anything to it


----------



## Mega Man

dont people have bricked the board by doing so


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TRusselo*
> 
> so whats the 3 pin header up top beside the 2 4 pin CPU fan headers?
> 
> 
> 
> diagnostic port for asus support... it's unmarked and I was told to be sure to not connect anything to it
Click to expand...

Seems to be only present on that location in rev v1.01 boards.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## TRusselo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> Seems to be only present on that location in rev v1.01 boards.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


my board has it. same color as yours... not the green heatsink board.


----------



## deeph

Hi,

Have this board for awhile but noticed that the board always in power when off (the green LED always on). How do I turn off completely this board?

deeph


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Have this board for awhile but noticed that the board always in power when off (the green LED always on). How do I turn off completely this board?
> 
> deeph


You don't, that is to let you know that there is power to the board itself, only way would to cut all the power to the PSU


----------



## deeph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> You don't, that is to let you know that there is power to the board itself, only way would to cut all the power to the PSU


Did you mean I have to switch off the PSU if I want to completely off?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

yarp


----------



## deeph

Or maybe is there any option in BIOS to turn off 'Standby' mode?


----------



## Mord

There is not.


----------



## deeph

Thanks, maybe I will cover the green led because it's not the same with my pc theme.


----------



## mus1mus

I am wondering what theme picked for your system.


----------



## deeph

Blue color. That LED was the most stand out itself in my case.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> Blue color. That LED was the most stand out itself in my case.


Yeah the big old green LED bugs me too but best to just leave it or make a little cover for it maybe?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Yeah the big old green LED bugs me too but best to just leave it or make a little cover for it maybe?


I was thinking about finding a clear smoke colored sticker to put over mine is not bad until I'm trying to sleep and it is the only light in the room


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I was thinking about finding a clear smoke colored sticker to put over mine is not bad until I'm trying to sleep and it is the only light in the room


Bit of heat shrink over it, apply heat. The bottom of it will still light up slightly and stuff so it will still be seen slightly but no where near as much.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Bit of heat shrink over it, apply heat. The bottom of it will still light up slightly and stuff so it will still be seen slightly but no where near as much.


if I didn't care and wanted to stifle it that bad I have a sharpie in my pocket lol.... Actually come to think of it I think I have a small round rubber insert for an old cabinet that might cover it perfectly and is easily removable. ..


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> if I didn't care and wanted to stifle it that bad I have a sharpie in my pocket lol.... Actually come to think of it I think I have a small round rubber insert for an old cabinet that might cover it perfectly and is easily removable. ..


You're welcome!


----------



## deeph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Yeah the big old green LED bugs me too but best to just leave it or make a little cover for it maybe?


Have made a little cover, it's not bad now


----------



## JourneymanMike

Hey guys, I got a slight problem maybe...

I have a Crosshair V Formula - z that I broke a pin off in the USB 3 socket. It is the #1 pin which is one of the 5v power pins....



I'm auctioning this board - what should I tell a potential buyer? Yes, I know to tell that the pin is missing! I mean will this work at all or not? I don't want to tear down my new build, WCing and all to find out...


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Hey guys, I got a slight problem maybe...
> 
> I have a Crosshair V Formula - z that I broke a pin off in the USB 3 socket. It is the #1 pin which is one of the 5v power pins....
> 
> 
> 
> I'm auctioning this board - what should I tell a potential buyer? Yes, I know to tell that the pin is missing! I mean will this work at all or not? I don't want to tear down my new build, WCing and all to find out...


there would be a big price decrease, but that is for the front usb 3.0 case connection sooo its not going to keep the board from working..


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Hey guys, I got a slight problem maybe...
> 
> I have a Crosshair V Formula - z that I broke a pin off in the USB 3 socket. It is the #1 pin which is one of the 5v power pins....
> 
> 
> 
> I'm auctioning this board - what should I tell a potential buyer? Yes, I know to tell that the pin is missing! I mean will this work at all or not? I don't want to tear down my new build, WCing and all to find out...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> there would be a big price decrease, but that is for the front usb 3.0 case connection sooo its not going to keep the board from working..
Click to expand...

OK, that's what I thought....

Now I can be honest in my description!

+1


----------



## mus1mus

Ask him if his case supports or sports front USB 3.0 ports. If not, why bother? lol

Honestly, there are more USB 3.0 ports at the back that are more reliable due to not having cable restriction issues. So it will still be justifiable.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Ask him if his case supports or sports front USB 3.0 ports. If not, why bother? lol
> 
> Honestly, there are more USB 3.0 ports at the back that are more reliable due to not having cable restriction issues. So it will still be justifiable.


Yup! Your right about that...

Afterthought: Since only one of the 5v pins is missing, and one is still intact, and if there were 2 USB 3.0 ports for the front, Maybe 1 of the ports would still work?

Jeeeez! Am I ever a dreamer


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Yup! Your right about that...
> 
> Afterthought: Since only one of the 5v pins is missing, and one is still intact, and if there were 2 USB 3.0 ports for the front, Maybe 1 of the ports would still work?
> 
> Jeeeez! Am I ever a dreamer


tbh i dont think id try any of my devices in it to see if it worked... imagine losing a 900 dollar phone to faulty port..(probably unlikely) but that would suck big time... see this is where my mind goes when somethings not working 100% i get all pessimistic :0 I think that comes from my luck though usually i get the most unlikely things to happen to me... like when i had a usb hub short out and take a 90 dollar mouse and 65 dollar keyboard with it... or the time i put my newly built pc in the back of a friends suburban to find a transit magnet stuck to it and no post when i got to the LAN... :0

How did you manage to take out that pin anyway did it come out with the connector?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> tbh i dont think id try any of my devices in it to see if it worked... imagine losing a 900 dollar phone to faulty port..(probably unlikely) but that would suck big time... see this is where my mind goes when somethings not working 100% i get all pessimistic :0 I think that comes from my luck though usually i get the most unlikely things to happen to me... like when i had a usb hub short out and take a 90 dollar mouse and 65 dollar keyboard with it... or the time i put my newly built pc in the back of a friends suburban to find a transit magnet stuck to it and no post when i got to the LAN... :0
> 
> How did you manage to take out that pin anyway did it come out with the connector?


you have a point there, however because it is one of the power connections, (if he is saying the truth about what pin that is cause I don't know so hypothetically lol) it would although fail both ports, or work at a slower speed... if it was a ground pin that would lead to a short that can damage.. but idk like I said haha


----------



## mus1mus

Just went through a bit of reading on that certain pin. It's a VBus pin.



Several reports can also be found on the net relating your issue such as this:

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1695107/build-broke-pin-usb-header.html

Anyway, have you tried to check if the Front USB 3.0 works for you? If it doesnt, just be honest to your buyer and get the best possible deal.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Just went through a bit of reading on that certain pin. It's a VBus pin.
> 
> 
> 
> Several reports can also be found on the net relating your issue such as this:
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1695107/build-broke-pin-usb-header.html
> 
> Anyway, have you tried to check if the Front USB 3.0 works for you? If it doesnt, just be honest to your buyer and get the best possible deal.


Thank You for the info! Yes, I was aware that this was one of the 5v pins (pins 1 & 19 are).

I did put that info in the description, and that it would not work...


----------



## WeirdHarold

Alright everyone so I'm getting a bit annoyed by the stagnate AMD market and I've read the rumors of the upcoming ZEN cpu's, but they are talking 2016 or even 2017 for a release. So here's my question: I'm currently still running the 1100T and I'm wondering if an update to an FX-8350 or 8370 would be worth it or not?

Thanks in advance everyone for your thoughts and advice


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Alright everyone so I'm getting a bit annoyed by the stagnate AMD market and I've read the rumors of the upcoming ZEN cpu's, but they are talking 2016 or even 2017 for a release. So here's my question: I'm currently still running the 1100T and I'm wondering if an update to an FX-8350 or 8370 would be worth it or not?
> 
> Thanks in advance everyone for your thoughts and advice


If you have that at 4GHz or so, probably not.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Alright everyone so I'm getting a bit annoyed by the stagnate AMD market and I've read the rumors of the upcoming ZEN cpu's, but they are talking 2016 or even 2017 for a release. So here's my question: I'm currently still running the 1100T and I'm wondering if an update to an FX-8350 or 8370 would be worth it or not?
> 
> Thanks in advance everyone for your thoughts and advice


To be honest with you if you have overclocked it a lot then probably not, if you need more cores and stuff then I'd go for an 8350 or 8370, the 8370E seems to be a great overclocker.


----------



## deehoC

Well I finally ditched my old Asrock 970 Extreme 3 and got one of these beautiful Sabertooth 990 FX R2.0s and it's been smooth sailing except for one thing I can't quite figure out..

Whenever I turn my PC on or restart it my keyboard/mouse/monitor all work and light up no problem..but as the boot process reaches the point where you see the Windows logo they all simultaneously turn off and then back on approximately 10-15 seconds later. My monitor reads "No DVI signal" and then goes into standby and my keyboard/mouse stop functioning only to resume use when the login screen is displayed. I also can hear some sort of faint noise that sounds to me like someone flicking a switch inside my case (this happens twice each boot, the first time just after my system begins to power on and the second time just before my peripherals turn back on.

I've got the latest BIOS for my board, I've installed the latest chipset drivers and I believe all of my other drivers are up to date. I've tried unplugging/swapping my USB devices in different slots but to no avail. My old board had a similar issue where the mouse/keyboard would act as I described above (Although it seemed to resolve itself for a while before re-occuring a few days later) but the monitor never lost its signal and I certainly had no clicking noise coming from the case during boot up.

The only things I've recently installed on this board are a new GPU (changed my Asus 550 Ti for a MSI GTX 970 Golden edition) and the sabertooth itself along with using the new SATA cables that came packaged with my board. I can live with it if this issue can't be fixed but it is kind of irritating as it slows down my boot considerably.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> Well I finally ditched my old Asrock 970 Extreme 3 and got one of these beautiful Sabertooth 990 FX R2.0s and it's been smooth sailing except for one thing I can't quite figure out..
> 
> Whenever I turn my PC on or restart it my keyboard/mouse/monitor all work and light up no problem..but as the boot process reaches the point where you see the Windows logo they all simultaneously turn off and then back on approximately 10-15 seconds later. My monitor reads "No DVI signal" and then goes into standby and my keyboard/mouse stop functioning only to resume use when the login screen is displayed. I also can hear some sort of faint noise that sounds to me like someone flicking a switch inside my case (this happens twice each boot, the first time just after my system begins to power on and the second time just before my peripherals turn back on.
> 
> I've got the latest BIOS for my board, I've installed the latest chipset drivers and I believe all of my other drivers are up to date. I've tried unplugging/swapping my USB devices in different slots but to no avail. My old board had a similar issue where the mouse/keyboard would act as I described above (Although it seemed to resolve itself for a while before re-occuring a few days later) but the monitor never lost its signal and I certainly had no clicking noise coming from the case during boot up.
> 
> The only things I've recently installed on this board are a new GPU (changed my Asus 550 Ti for a MSI GTX 970 Golden edition) and the sabertooth itself along with using the new SATA cables that came packaged with my board. I can live with it if this issue can't be fixed but it is kind of irritating as it slows down my boot considerably.


I believe its a windows thing. What OS are you using? Did you do a fresh install?


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> I believe its a windows thing. What OS are you using? Did you do a fresh install?


Win 7 Home Prem 64 bit, yes totally fresh install.


----------



## Benjiw

Got my D5, just waiting on my VRM and Northbridge waterblocks to get here then I can spend a day cooling things down a little bit more!


----------



## Mega Man

everyone i have talked to that has done it says, yes it is worth it ( from a PII 6 core to 83xx )


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Got my D5, just waiting on my VRM and Northbridge waterblocks to get here then I can spend a day cooling things down a little bit more!


Awesome, good luck!

Here's a little inspiration


----------



## Pudfark

Woofers.....that's sexy.


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> everyone i have talked to that has done it says, yes it is worth it ( from a PII 6 core to 83xx )


I went from a PII x4 @ 3.6 to a PII x6 @ 4.0 GHz and hardly noticed a difference.

The past 2 years I've been back running my PII x4 @ 3.7 GHz. Recently, I've got a 8320E running at 4.2 GHz and noticed Windows responding faster, Firefox is smoother, and better min frame rate with gaming. Even at 3.8 and 4.0 GHz, the 8320 had noticeable improvement over the x4 @ 3.7 GHz.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Awesome, good luck!
> 
> Here's a little inspiration


The Anti-Kink springs though.

meh


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> The Anti-Kink springs though.
> 
> meh


I think if I had a run right enough to kink I would just rethink the order or routing


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> The Anti-Kink springs though.
> 
> meh


Yeah anti-kink things are pretty meh but that white tubing is nice! Do anti-kink coils even work? Part of the reason I can't wait for my waterblocks is I can change the route of my loop. Most people here don't have a 120mm rad on the exhaust of their cases which I do and it messes up my routing a bit due to the dual bay res (straight line to the res looks a bit rubbish) I really want a tube res next with a 970 water cooled and then the loop will be finished up with some hardline tubing.

I was lurking in the Acrylic polishing thread the other day and someone mentioned about polishing tubing on the inside and out for better clarity, has anyone ever done that?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Yeah anti-kink things are pretty meh but that white tubing is nice! Do anti-kink coils even work? Part of the reason I can't wait for my waterblocks is I can change the route of my loop. Most people here don't have a 120mm rad on the exhaust of their cases which I do and it messes up my routing a bit due to the dual bay res (straight line to the res looks a bit rubbish) I really want a tube res next with a 970 water cooled and then the loop will be finished up with some hardline tubing.
> 
> I was lurking in the Acrylic polishing thread the other day and someone mentioned about polishing tubing on the inside and out for better clarity, has anyone ever done that?


Just get Acrylic Tubes. They are pretty enough to even bother polishing. The more it resembles glass, the better looking it is. But harder to work.

Brittle, and moar expensive. PETG for a start. Cheaper, easier to bend.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> Win 7 Home Prem 64 bit, yes totally fresh install.


Seems to me like it is either the GPU causing that or some form of setting in the bios because mine doesn't do this, my rig is in my sig. Do you have the 8350 overclocked at all? What settings do you have in the bios? are they all stock?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Just get Acrylic Tubes. They are pretty enough to even bother polishing. The more it resembles glass, the better looking it is. But harder to work.
> 
> Brittle, and moar expensive. PETG for a start. Cheaper, easier to bend.


Brittle how? the PETG and Acrylic debate has gone on for a while now due to the modzoo group taking a hammer to the PETG and Acrylic with the PETG surviving and the other not so well lol, but I've yet to see people losing a rig due to the acrylic exploding, also the more exspensive thing is down to people buying from pc marketed tubing rather than from a acrylic stockist.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> The Anti-Kink springs though.
> 
> meh


Meh eh?







You wouldn't be happy with it?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I think if I had a run right enough to kink I would just rethink the order or routing


Look at what's going on there in terms of where each fitting is. It's a lot less complicated if you aren't cooling the VRMs, NB, CPU, GPUs and don't have a rad there on top of it. To not have a kink I would have to 1) make big hoops, which collapse over time IME or 2) go from block to rad to block to rad and have a ton more tubing in the system. I weighed the options and anti-kink is the one most acceptable to me
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Yeah anti-kink things are pretty meh but that white tubing is nice! Do anti-kink coils even work? Part of the reason I can't wait for my waterblocks is I can change the route of my loop. Most people here don't have a 120mm rad on the exhaust of their cases which I do and it messes up my routing a bit due to the dual bay res (straight line to the res looks a bit rubbish)


The anti kink from Primochill is very stiff and is 100% effective so far. Almost all of those bends would be partially kinked without it.

The only way for me to have the routing I wanted without antikink would have been hard tubing, which doesn't work for me (mean time to make a change, can't purposefully kink hoses to clean inside blocks etc)

Also iMO/E all rads should be intake


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Seems to me like it is either the GPU causing that or some form of setting in the bios because mine doesn't do this, my rig is in my sig. Do you have the 8350 overclocked at all? What settings do you have in the bios? are they all stock?


I left my 8350 at stock speeds for the mean time, my RAM is running 1866 @ 9-10-9-28-37, BIOS is all default except for D.O.C.P enabled and my RAM timings.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Brittle how? the PETG and Acrylic debate has gone on for a while now due to the modzoo group taking a hammer to the PETG and Acrylic with the PETG surviving and the other not so well lol, but I've yet to see people losing a rig due to the acrylic exploding, also the more exspensive thing is down to people buying from pc marketed tubing rather than from a acrylic stockist.


Not saying they will explode on someone else's rig. lmao:

Where did that notion came from?

Them being brittle is harder to cut, requires a good amount of heat to bend, and bubbles when heated inappropriately. But boy, they look too demn good when done properly.

Also note why people chose to buy from PC stores instead of Acrylic stores is the fact that we (PC Community) use PC centered fittings. Tube and fitting measurement should be your concern. But that should be a topic you will learn in another thread.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Meh eh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You wouldn't be happy with it?
> Look at what's going on there in terms of where each fitting is. It's a lot less complicated if you aren't cooling the VRMs, NB, CPU, GPUs and don't have a rad there on top of it. To not have a kink I would have to 1) make big hoops, which collapse over time IME or 2) go from block to rad to block to rad and have a ton more tubing in the system. I weighed the options and anti-kink is the one most acceptable to me
> The anti kink from Primochill is very stiff and is 100% effective so far. Almost all of those bends would be partially kinked without it.
> 
> The only way for me to have the routing I wanted without antikink would have been hard tubing, which doesn't work for me (mean time to make a change, can't purposefully kink hoses to clean inside blocks etc)
> 
> Also iMO/E all rads should be intake


I believe, you would have been better without those. But it's just me.

Thicker walled tubing won't be that prone to kinks IMO. If that is an option applicable to your fittings.

3/8 X 5/8 tubes and some angled fittings would really help you gain more points in a beauty contest.









Well sought out rig though. Now, can you give me some info on your MOSFET and NB blocks?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Not saying they will explode on someone else's rig. lmao:
> 
> Where did that notion came from?
> 
> Them being brittle is harder to cut, requires a good amount of heat to bend, and bubbles when heated inappropriately. But boy, they look too demn good when done properly.
> 
> Also note why people chose to buy from PC stores instead of Acrylic stores is the fact that we (PC Community) use PC centered fittings. Tube and fitting measurement should be your concern. But that should be a topic you will learn in another thread.
> I believe, you would have been better without those. But it's just me.
> 
> Thicker walled tubing won't be that prone to kinks IMO. If that is an option applicable to your fittings.
> 
> 3/8 X 5/8 tubes and some angled fittings would really help you gain more points in a beauty contest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well sought out rig though. Now, can you give me some info on your MOSFET and NB blocks?


gard to see but it looks like this
http://www.overclock.net/t/1468642/how-to-watercool-the-asus-990fx-sabertooth-rev2-0-vrms-and-nb


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> *Not saying they will explode on someone else's rig. lmao:
> 
> Where did that notion came from?
> 
> Them being brittle is harder to cut, requires a good amount of heat to bend, and bubbles when heated inappropriately. But boy, they look too demn good when done properly.
> 
> Also note why people chose to buy from PC stores instead of Acrylic stores is the fact that we (PC Community) use PC centered fittings. Tube and fitting measurement should be your concern. But that should be a topic you will learn in another thread.*
> I believe, you would have been better without those. But it's just me.
> 
> Thicker walled tubing won't be that prone to kinks IMO. If that is an option applicable to your fittings.
> 
> 3/8 X 5/8 tubes and some angled fittings would really help you gain more points in a beauty contest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well sought out rig though. Now, can you give me some info on your MOSFET and NB blocks?


Haha the exploding thing was just a cheeky little leg pull, as for fitting etc who do you think makes the sizes that the PC manufactueres use? Most of the time they won't make it in house. Anyway as long as they fit in the fittings nice and snug there will be no issue. Please point me to the thread where I could learn more though? I'm in the UK so won't have to deal with inches.









VRM - Koolance MVR 100 Click me
VRM - Koolance MVR 140 heat transfer plate Click me
NB - Koolance CHC-122 Click me *NOTE: will not be able to use compression fittings thicker than 18mm*
NB - Heatkiller NSB Rev.3 Click me *NOTE: Can use normal compression fittings on these, I've seen the pics and you can see there is more room on the product pics, I have one in the post coming to me soon so will fit it and tell you of the mods needed if any.*


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Well sought out rig though. Now, can you give me some info on your MOSFET and NB blocks?


Check the link in my signature about watercooling the sabertooth 990fx


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Check the link in my signature about watercooling the sabertooth 990fx


Will soon be adding to your thread, with many pics and notes and all sorts of info, I've been looking at the Heatkiller website and they do replacement parts so I'll get some measurements and maybe a CAD of the stock mounting for the VRM with backplate and email them asking for information on which will fit if any as they do a 130mm DIY plate. The N/SB waterblock has an XS ring mount which might be a good purchase or not, need to size it up when I receive it.


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Will soon be adding to your thread, with many pics and notes and all sorts of info, I've been looking at the Heatkiller website and they do replacement parts so I'll get some measurements and maybe a CAD of the stock mounting for the VRM with backplate and email them asking for information on which will fit if any as they do a 130mm DIY plate. The N/SB waterblock has an XS ring mount which might be a good purchase or not, need to size it up when I receive it.


I want to see pics of your rig when you're done, it will be quite an improvement. I have toyed with the idea with this mod for awhile. Hope it works out good for ya.


----------



## Benjiw

Where did my previous post go? Jesus christ!

I can't remember what I said Huckle, you're best going to my project thread and following that for results, cba repeating myself.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Haha the exploding thing was just a cheeky little leg pull, *as for fitting etc who do you think makes the sizes that the PC manufactueres use?* Most of the time they won't make it in house. *Anyway as long as they fit in the fittings nice and snug there will be no issue.* Please point me to the thread where I could learn more though? I'm in the UK so won't have to deal with inches.


It doesn't matter who makes them tubing. But getting the exact sizes will.

Any way,
http://www.overclock.net/t/226970/updated-water-cooling-essential-threads/0_50


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Where did my previous post go? Jesus christ!
> 
> I can't remember what I said Huckle, you're best going to my project thread and following that for results, cba repeating myself.


Give me a link.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Give me a link.


Siggy siggy siggy can't you see, sometimes your words just hypnotize me.


----------



## toppas

I've posted in this thread earlier because of the issue with the multiplier got stuck at 18.5x after resume from sleep. I wasn't able to fix that and somehow resigned but today within some rebuilding I flashed a new bios. (v2503)
I never flashed from 2301 because the changelog only tells you about some usb device compatibility. Anyway it seems that the multiplier issue is gone now. Just very glad that I don't have to reboot anymore after waking from sleep to bring back the overclock.









cheers


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Siggy siggy siggy can't you see, sometimes your words just hypnotize me.


like the biggie sound to it. I have been on my phone lately so I don't see sig.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> It doesn't matter who makes them tubing. But getting the exact sizes will.
> 
> Any way,
> http://www.overclock.net/t/226970/updated-water-cooling-essential-threads/0_50


You misunderstand me, I mean the acrylic tubing not the fittings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> like the biggie sound to it. I have been on my phone lately so I don't see sig.


Ohhhh and yes I love me a bit'o Biggie!

Link, Haven't updated it because of moving house and college deadlines etc but will be doing a big update this weekend.


----------



## mus1mus

Nope, I got you the first time.

you need to take the road I linked you.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Nope, I got you the first time.
> 
> you need to take the road I linked you.


I've watercooled before, i'm sure I can work out what fittings will fit what tubing will fit what size fitting, you just match numbers up... c'mon dude...









Also can I just say you keep posting that link and I have NO IDEA which one of those I'm supposed to be reading?


----------



## deehoC

Soo I just have one quick question.

Has anyone here had issues getting their mouse to work in the BIOS, specifically if you use a Steelseries Xai mouse? No matter which port I plug into, or which drivers I use whether its basic microsoft ones or the Steelseries drivers I never have use of my mouse in the BIOS. Is there some setting I should change or is this mouse just garbage like I assume it is?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> Soo I just have one quick question.
> 
> Has anyone here had issues getting their mouse to work in the BIOS, specifically if you use a Steelseries Xai mouse? No matter which port I plug into, or which drivers I use whether its basic microsoft ones or the Steelseries drivers I never have use of my mouse in the BIOS. Is there some setting I should change or is this mouse just garbage like I assume it is?


I don't have that mouse but I have never had any issues with the mouse in the UEFI, I do often catch myself forgetting that you can use a mouse from time to time but that's user error and not the mouse's fault







Oh yeah and I have Rev 1.0 Board.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I don't have that mouse but I have never had any issues with the mouse in the UEFI, I do often catch myself forgetting that you can use a mouse from time to time but that's user error and not the mouse's fault
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah and I have Rev 1.0 Board.


I've used a cheap targus a cheap dell and my g5 all worked well but I do occasionally get mouse lag with the two cheaper ones


----------



## Mega Man

sometimes i have to unplug and replug it in bios


----------



## pendrago

Hi Guys!








Because I have recently bought 2 SSD and I'd like to have them in RAID 0.
Got my RAID 0 setup already installed - I mean 1 SSD Vertex 60 MB as a system drive and 2 xSeagate 1TB in RAID 0.

But there is a problem... Those new disks I bought http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-2-5-Inch-adapter-Internal-CT120M500SSD1/dp/B00BQ4F9ZA cannot be visible under Windows (under Linux with Bios AHCI option enabled - they are perfectly visible). As soon as I switch to RAID mode in BIOS and enter to Win7 I just can't see those 2 disks.

Do I have to format all drives (those 3 I got now) and install Win 7 once again ? It was so long ago I set up my RAID 0 and I just don't remember what should have to be done step by step. I assume those new SSD RAID will be visible but they have to be "connected" with RAID drivers during an installation of Windows.

One more thing. I would like to have those SSD RAID 0 Crucial setup as my primary drive (system and some games maybe) and then second RAID 0 as I mentioned, assembled with those 2 Seagate HDs'.

Is it true that those Crucial M500 are not quite compatible with RAID setups on this mobo? (Sabertooth ver 1.0) I have read people had problems to run such setups. Is it true?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pendrago*
> 
> Hi Guys!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because I have recently bought 2 SSD and I'd like to have them in RAID 0.
> Got my RAID 0 setup already installed - I mean 1 SSD Vertex 60 MB as a system drive and 2 xSeagate 1TB in RAID 0.
> 
> But there is a problem... Those new disks I bought http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-2-5-Inch-adapter-Internal-CT120M500SSD1/dp/B00BQ4F9ZA cannot be visible under Windows (under Linux with Bios AHCI option enabled - they are perfectly visible). As soon as I switch to RAID mode in BIOS and enter to Win7 I just can't see those 2 disks.
> 
> Do I have to format all drives (those 3 I got now) and install Win 7 once again ? It was so long ago I set up my RAID 0 and I just don't remember what should have to be done step by step. I assume those new SSD RAID will be visible but they have to be "connected" with RAID drivers during an installation of Windows.
> 
> One more thing. I would like to have those SSD RAID 0 Crucial setup as my primary drive (system and some games maybe) and then second RAID 0 as I mentioned, assembled with those 2 Seagate HDs'.
> 
> Is it true that those Crucial M500 are not quite compatible with RAID setups on this mobo? (Sabertooth ver 1.0) I have read people had problems to run such setups. Is it true?


In windows, add new drive and assign a letter for it, happens to me when I do fresh installs.

Sorry: Control Panel -> System and Security -> Administrative Tools ->Computer Management -> Disk Management -> Right-Click on the Harddrive not displayed in the computer map -> Add driver letter.


----------



## pendrago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> In windows, add new drive and assign a letter for it, happens to me when I do fresh installs.
> 
> Sorry: Control Panel -> System and Security -> Administrative Tools ->Computer Management -> Disk Management -> Right-Click on the Harddrive not displayed in the computer map -> Add driver letter.


Of course!







I think 3 years ago I asked the same question and then I have forgotten about this solution.








Thx a lot ... It is confusing BTW. Linux has no problems with it but in windows you need to assign a letter :/

Once again ... thx a lot!


----------



## Kutya7

Hi everyone!

Has anybody tried an FX-8370 in Sabertotth 990FX rev 1.0?
I have seen on other forums that the 9370 and 9590 is running in it, but never seen an 8370...


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutya7*
> 
> Hi everyone!
> 
> Has anybody tried an FX-8370 in Sabertotth 990FX rev 1.0?
> I have seen on other forums that the 9370 and 9590 is running in it, but never seen an 8370...


It should work.

Rev 1 hasn't seen a BIOS update since 2012 and a "new" 8320e works fine in my system.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutya7*
> 
> Hi everyone!
> 
> Has anybody tried an FX-8370 in Sabertotth 990FX rev 1.0?
> I have seen on other forums that the 9370 and 9590 is running in it, but never seen an 8370...


If I remember correctly the 8370 is just an 8350 with a small bump in the boost/turbo clock so it should work no problem


----------



## Kutya7

*Thanks*


----------



## Pakeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> It should work.
> 
> Rev 1 hasn't seen a BIOS update since 2012 and a "new" 8320e works fine in my system.


And it's never going to see an update, since the Rev 2 came out shortly after.


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pakeo*
> 
> And it's never going to see an update, since the Rev 2 came out shortly after.


I think it's sufficiently mature, that no known bugs exist. So I'm fine with no updates.

I wouldn't be fine with "just buy a Rev2" solution.

That said, if I had to RMA my board I would assume they'd replace it with a Rev 2. Not that it matters to me, rev 1 is great.


----------



## SwishaMane

Our old AM3+ 990FX setups are about obsolete right? I've had my rev 1 Sabertooth so long, I can't remember when I bought it. Only how much it cost... ha ha

Still under warranty Im sure... 2010 these boards came out? 2011?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Our old AM3+ 990FX setups are about obsolete right? I've had my rev 1 Sabertooth so long, I can't remember when I bought it. Only how much it cost... ha ha
> 
> Still under warranty Im sure... 2010 these boards came out? 2011?


I don't know if I'd go straight to obsolete, since AMD won't be releasing a new chipset till next year sometime







So from the AMD side of things I don't think we will see much in the way of new 990FX boards, AsRock did release the 990FX Extreme6 and a Fatality version that have an M.2 socket end of last year that are more up to date. My Rev. 1 Sabertooth is still going strong and is still a great system, I am however tired of waiting for AMD to get the stuff together so my current build is Intel and I don't think I'm to only one in this situation.


----------



## Mega Man

Please do tell. What Exactly does Intel offer that you needed so bad

In my experience nothing.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Please do tell. What Exactly does Intel offer that you needed so bad
> 
> In my experience nothing.


The mainboard support to use a ssd as a cache drive.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> The mainboard support to use a ssd as a cache drive.


RAMDISK?

I dont consider my setup obsolete, but compared to some of you ppl out there, (looking at you folks with new Intel CPUs, 32GB+ RAM, and gtx 960s+), my rig is OLD. Ha ha

I've had it so long it feels older than it is.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> The mainboard support to use a ssd as a cache drive.
> 
> 
> 
> RAMDISK?
> 
> I dont consider my setup obsolete, but compared to some of you ppl out there, (looking at you folks with new Intel CPUs, 32GB+ RAM, and gtx 960s+), my rig is OLD. Ha ha
> 
> I've had it so long it feels older than it is.
Click to expand...

IMO the Intel mainboards support Ssd cache in the bios. Very low-level its not the same. But MS readydrive is also nice. Look at my sig my rig is also old. I can feel with you!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Please do tell. _*What Exactly does Intel offer that you needed so bad
> 
> In my experience nothing*_.
> 
> 
> 
> The mainboard support to use a ssd as a cache drive.
Click to expand...

well since you told me, i edited my original statement


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Please do tell. _*What Exactly does Intel offer that you needed so bad
> 
> In my experience nothing*_.
> 
> 
> 
> The mainboard support to use a ssd as a cache drive.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> well since you told me, i edited my original statement
Click to expand...

Better efficiency, I.e. power consumption, I.e I always bought AMD because of price and also never Apple.


----------



## Pakeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> I think it's sufficiently mature, that no known bugs exist. So I'm fine with no updates.
> 
> I wouldn't be fine with "just buy a Rev2" solution.
> 
> That said, if I had to RMA my board I would assume they'd replace it with a Rev 2. Not that it matters to me, rev 1 is great.


True, it's very stable. I don't know, I guess I was just annoyed they came out with Rev 2 shortly after I built my system with Rev 1. And then another six months later, Rev 3 came out. But it is a very good board, no problems with it whatsoever, 3 1/2 years strong. makes you wonder why there were two revisions. Guess I just got caught up with the tech cycle. It's possible they'd replace it with a Rev 3, but you're probably right about it being Rev 2. Well, I got 2 1/2 more years on my warranty.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I don't know if I'd go straight to obsolete, since AMD won't be releasing a new chipset till next year sometime
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So from the AMD side of things I don't think we will see much in the way of new 990FX boards, AsRock did release the 990FX Extreme6 and a Fatality version that have an M.2 socket end of last year that are more up to date. My Rev. 1 Sabertooth is still going strong and is still a great system, I am however tired of waiting for AMD to get the stuff together so my current build is Intel and I don't think I'm to only one in this situation.


I don't think it's obsolete yet. I haven't really pushed anything to the limit, since I used to play Planetside 2. That would get my video card pretty warm. I have a feeling I'm going to have to upgrade that at least soon, but the motherboard wouldn't affect this too much. Graphics have a much shorter cycle than boards. Most people replace their boards when they upgrade their CPU, usually cause they're forced to. (I'm looking at *you* Intel!) Any idea what's coming down the line for mobos? All I've heard of is PCIe 4.0.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> RAMDISK?
> 
> I dont consider my setup obsolete, but compared to some of you ppl out there, (looking at you folks with new Intel CPUs, 32GB+ RAM, and gtx 960s+), my rig is OLD. Ha ha
> 
> I've had it so long it feels older than it is.


You guys talking about this stuff is making me think about how old my system is. Knock it off. It's not even that old. And no one needs 32 GB RAM unless they're running VMs. (Although, more is always better when talking VMs.)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Please do tell. What Exactly does Intel offer that you needed so bad
> 
> In my experience nothing.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> The mainboard support to use a ssd as a cache drive.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> well since you told me, i edited my original statement
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Better efficiency, I.e. power consumption, I.e I always bought AMD because of price and also never Apple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

And if you need it, the ability to build a Hackintosh. Although, I've heard you can set up a Mac VM with an AMD processor, but it's _*a lot*_ more difficult than if you had an Intel under the hood. Plus you could just run OS X locally with an Intel system, if you wished.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pakeo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> I think it's sufficiently mature, that no known bugs exist. So I'm fine with no updates.
> 
> I wouldn't be fine with "just buy a Rev2" solution.
> 
> That said, if I had to RMA my board I would assume they'd replace it with a Rev 2. Not that it matters to me, rev 1 is great.
> 
> 
> 
> True, it's very stable. I don't know, I guess I was just annoyed they came out with Rev 2 shortly after I built my system with Rev 1. And then another six months later, Rev 3 came out. But it is a very good board, no problems with it whatsoever, 3 1/2 years strong. makes you wonder why there were two revisions. Guess I just got caught up with the tech cycle. It's possible they'd replace it with a Rev 3, but you're probably right about it being Rev 2. Well, I got 2 1/2 more years on my warranty.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I don't know if I'd go straight to obsolete, since AMD won't be releasing a new chipset till next year sometime
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So from the AMD side of things I don't think we will see much in the way of new 990FX boards, AsRock did release the 990FX Extreme6 and a Fatality version that have an M.2 socket end of last year that are more up to date. My Rev. 1 Sabertooth is still going strong and is still a great system, I am however tired of waiting for AMD to get the stuff together so my current build is Intel and I don't think I'm to only one in this situation.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I don't think it's obsolete yet. I haven't really pushed anything to the limit, since I used to play Planetside 2. That would get my video card pretty warm. I have a feeling I'm going to have to upgrade that at least soon, but the motherboard wouldn't affect this too much. Graphics have a much shorter cycle than boards. Most people replace their boards when they upgrade their CPU, usually cause they're forced to. (I'm looking at *you* Intel!) Any idea what's coming down the line for mobos? All I've heard of is PCIe 4.0.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> RAMDISK?
> 
> I dont consider my setup obsolete, but compared to some of you ppl out there, (looking at you folks with new Intel CPUs, 32GB+ RAM, and gtx 960s+), my rig is OLD. Ha ha
> 
> I've had it so long it feels older than it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You guys talking about this stuff is making me think about how old my system is. Knock it off. It's not even that old. And no one needs 32 GB RAM unless they're running VMs. (Although, more is always better when talking VMs.)
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Please do tell. What Exactly does Intel offer that you needed so bad
> 
> In my experience nothing.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> The mainboard support to use a ssd as a cache drive.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> well since you told me, i edited my original statement
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Better efficiency, I.e. power consumption, I.e I always bought AMD because of price and also never Apple.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> And if you need it, the ability to build a Hackintosh. Although, I've heard you can set up a Mac VM with an AMD processor, but it's _*a lot*_ more difficult than if you had an Intel under the hood. Plus you could just run OS X locally with an Intel system, if you wished.
Click to expand...

There is already rev 3.0? Whats wrong with rev 2.0? I don't need that much a Mac OS but there advertising is really good. A pc is more flexible. I tried to install a vm hackintosh but failed. Why do you think you need 32GB ram with vm? I'm a professional and I use a Linux vm with just 2GB ram. I only use it for web development but it works. What I need is many hard disk capacity. Look in my sig rig I have something like a family far, I.e truck not a Ferrari/Porsche.

EDIT: I can't find Asus Sabertooth rev 3.0. Maybe a language thing?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> There is already rev 3.0? Whats wrong with rev 2.0? I don't need that much a Mac OS but there advertising is really good. A pc is more flexible. I tried to install a vm hackintosh but failed. Why do you think you need 32GB ram with vm? I'm a professional and I use a Linux vm with just 2GB ram. I only use it for web development but it works. What I need is many hard disk capacity. Look in my sig rig I have something like a family far, I.e truck not a Ferrari/Porsche.
> 
> EDIT: I can't find Asus Sabertooth rev 3.0. Maybe a language thing?


http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FXGEN3_R20/

Not called a rev 3 but it is basically a new revision with better stuff.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FXGEN3_R20/
> 
> Not called a rev 3 but it is basically a new revision with better stuff.


This is the gen3 thing. It uses PCIe v3.0 with a proprietary integrated circuit because AMD doesn't support it.


----------



## toppas

it's practically the same. that "gen3" thing is aimed at the onboard plx-chip which offers pci-e 3.0.
but the communication with the northbridge is still limited to the pci-e 2.0 standard. there is no need for pci-e 3.0 when you've got two pci-e 2.0 slots with true 16 lanes. beyond that, there were latencies noticed when data passed that plx chip.
I never understood why asus came up with that. it went eol very fast though..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> There is already rev 3.0? Whats wrong with rev 2.0? I don't need that much a Mac OS but there advertising is really good. A pc is more flexible. I tried to install a vm hackintosh but failed. Why do you think you need 32GB ram with vm? I'm a professional and I use a Linux vm with just 2GB ram. I only use it for web development but it works. What I need is many hard disk capacity. Look in my sig rig I have something like a family far, I.e truck not a Ferrari/Porsche.
> 
> EDIT: I can't find Asus Sabertooth rev 3.0. Maybe a language thing?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FXGEN3_R20/
> 
> Not called a rev 3 but it is basically a new revision with better stuff.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toppas*
> 
> it's practically the same. that "gen3" thing is aimed at the onboard plx-chip which offers pci-e 3.0.
> but the communication with the northbridge is still limited to the pci-e 2.0 standard. there is no need for pci-e 3.0 when you've got two pci-e 2.0 slots with true 16 lanes. beyond that, there were latencies noticed when data passed that plx chip.
> I never understood why asus came up with that. it went eol very fast though..


no, no its really not, it was a limited edition run that flopped horribly and had numerous issues fit was more of a rev2.1 but failed

the gen3 refers only to the pcie3.0 all else was basically the same from my understanding


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no, no its really not, it was a limited edition run that flopped horribly and had numerous issues fit was more of a rev2.1 but failed
> 
> the gen3 refers only to the pcie3.0 all else was basically the same from my understanding


I thought I had rad it had other improvements...but yeah pci 3.0 at 2.0 speed isn't a big improvement at all...


----------



## Mega Man

the benefit was that the cards could communicate with each other at pcie 3.0

IE like CFX


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the benefit was that the cards could communicate with each other at pcie 3.0
> 
> IE like CFX


Thank you for clarifcation.


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Our old AM3+ 990FX setups are about obsolete right? I've had my rev 1 Sabertooth so long, I can't remember when I bought it. Only how much it cost... ha ha
> 
> Still under warranty Im sure... 2010 these boards came out? 2011?


5+2011 = 2016


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pakeo*
> 
> True, it's very stable. I don't know, I guess I was just annoyed they came out with Rev 2 shortly after I built my system with Rev 1. And then another six months later, Rev 3 came out. But it is a very good board, no problems with it whatsoever, 3 1/2 years strong. makes you wonder why there were two revisions. Guess I just got caught up with the tech cycle. It's possible they'd replace it with a Rev 3, but you're probably right about it being Rev 2. Well, I got 2 1/2 more years on my warranty.


I believe it was Windows 8 that caught them off guard.

The big difference between rev 1 and rev 2 is that rev 2 BIOS chip has twice the storage space to allow for Windows 8 fast boot feature. That's pretty much it. Rev 2 also might include Voltage fan control instead of just PWM when using custom curves - and/ or 4 pin fan everywhere not just for CPU.

Other than that, I think it's the same as Rev 1.

I got my Rev1 January 2012 because I was forced to update when my MSI board fried. So I got a few years left on warranty. But this board is solid. So complaints.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pakeo*
> 
> True, it's very stable. I don't know, I guess I was just annoyed they came out with Rev 2 shortly after I built my system with Rev 1. And then another six months later, Rev 3 came out. But it is a very good board, no problems with it whatsoever, 3 1/2 years strong. makes you wonder why there were two revisions. Guess I just got caught up with the tech cycle. It's possible they'd replace it with a Rev 3, but you're probably right about it being Rev 2. Well, I got 2 1/2 more years on my warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe it was Windows 8 that caught them off guard.
> 
> The big difference between rev 1 and rev 2 is that rev 2 BIOS chip has twice the storage space to allow for Windows 8 fast boot feature. That's pretty much it. Rev 2 also might include Voltage fan control instead of just PWM when using custom curves - and/ or 4 pin fan everywhere not just for CPU.
> 
> Other than that, I think it's the same as Rev 1.
> 
> I got my Rev1 January 2012 because I was forced to update when my MSI board fried. So I got a few years left on warranty. But this board is solid. So complaints.
Click to expand...

they are completely different boards

nor am i stating that you are right or wrong in your other assumptions
several features missing/added

the vrm section may be the same i am not saying that changed nor am i saying that either is bad , but the boards are different and really have slightly different marketing


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they are completely different boards


You're totally wrong.

Same LAN chip
Same audio chip
Same CPU Vregs
Same TUF components (caps, and such)
Both have ASMedia USB 3.0 solution
Same heatsink
Same CPU/ memory spec
Same general layout

Different 3rd party SATA controller
Larger BIOS on Rev 2 with flashback feature & slightly updated power management features.

You're telling me these are "totally" different?


----------



## Mega Man

wow your right ....

can you show me the usb bios flashback on the rev 1.o ?

or the core unlocker on the 2.o ??

i would go on, but that alone makes them
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they are completely different boards
> 
> nor am i stating that you are right or wrong in your other assumptions
> several features missing/added
> 
> the vrm section may be the same i am not saying that changed nor am i saying that either is bad , _*but the boards are different and really have slightly different marketing*_


it is like saying the CVF and CVFz are the same boards, they are not, they are fundamentally different, but similar


----------



## umeng2002

You're talking about minimal features that don't affect performance in the slightest.

No one said it was the exact same board. That's why there are other revisions.

You claimed they were "completely" different when they have 90% in common.

The original point I was making is that the Rev1 board doesn't have the Windows 8 fast boot feature because the BIOS is too small.

That's the biggest difference between the two.

No one can make a $70 mobo a great overclocking board by added BIOS flashback and a core unlocker.

The key components determine the value of a board, and the Rev1 and Rev2 are essentially the same in that regard.


----------



## Mega Man

again
you are looking at the top, not underneath

the pcb DIFFERENT

bios features DIFFERENT ( SUBSTANTIALLY ) ( different voltage setting able to be changed , no core unlocker ect)

layout, similar but DIFFERENT

it looks the same, but under the hood it is not

i would not call that minimal

edit

one supports thunder bolt one doesnt and i am done


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> again
> you are looking at the top, not underneath
> 
> the pcb DIFFERENT
> 
> bios features DIFFERENT ( SUBSTANTIALLY ) ( different voltage setting able to be changed , no core unlocker ect)
> 
> layout, similar but DIFFERENT
> 
> it looks the same, but under the hood it is not
> 
> i would not call that minimal
> 
> edit
> 
> one supports thunder bolt one doesnt and i am done


You're talking about things that have almost nothing to do with the performance of the motherboard.

All the main components are the same between the revisions. The differences you're talking about do not qualify them as being "completely different." They're different, but not completely different - hence the two revisions.


----------



## Mega Man

first if you look i am from denver area

second

PCB layout is an EXTREMELY key factor in many things

one of the reasons the gigabyte soc board has all memory champion ocs atm... PCB layout ( the memory is slightly closer to the CPU aka the traces are shorter )

same with CVFz better traces, idk of world records for its time with memory but i know they run memory better

cleaner power is also affected.

having different power delivery in bios/different voltages is HUGE and key

this is not a small detail

it is HUGE

just because something looks similar and has similar functions does NOT make it the same, nor different

but just what i have pointed out alone is key in many things


----------



## umeng2002

Then why aren't the spread sheets on the forum ranked in trace size or memory distance? They're ranked on power phases and IC model.

You're talking about variables that have way less to do with performance than the key components and design that are the same between the boards.


----------



## Mega Man

wow

one more time

although this does not scratch the surface, and since i OBVIOUSLY do not know what i am talking about ... maybe asus does,

( dont get me wrong this is NOT the only one { asus interview } that talks about this, but since this is easy to understand, if you want more you will have to do your own legwork as i already have )
Quote:


> Much like the Crosshair V Formula-Z there's more going on under the surface than immediately meets the eye. The R2.0 has had several upgrades


( Source )

thats it, i am done, keep living in illusion or not it is up to you, but you can see from the quote from asus

there's more going on under the surface than immediately meets the eye


----------



## Benjiw




----------



## Pakeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> There is already rev 3.0? Whats wrong with rev 2.0? I don't need that much a Mac OS but there advertising is really good. A pc is more flexible. I tried to install a vm hackintosh but failed. Why do you think you need 32GB ram with vm? I'm a professional and I use a Linux vm with just 2GB ram. I only use it for web development but it works. What I need is many hard disk capacity. Look in my sig rig I have something like a family far, I.e truck not a Ferrari/Porsche.
> 
> EDIT: I can't find Asus Sabertooth rev 3.0. Maybe a language thing?


If you run a lot of VMs, you'd need a lot of memory, but if you're just running one, you wouldn't need a crapload. And trucks aren't family cars. Trucks are utility vehicles. I don't care what the auto industry implies with their "extended cab" models.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FXGEN3_R20/
> 
> Not called a rev 3 but it is basically a new revision with better stuff.


Yeah, that's it, Gen 3. My bad.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> I believe it was Windows 8 that caught them off guard.
> 
> The big difference between rev 1 and rev 2 is that rev 2 BIOS chip has twice the storage space to allow for Windows 8 fast boot feature. That's pretty much it. Rev 2 also might include Voltage fan control instead of just PWM when using custom curves - and/ or 4 pin fan everywhere not just for CPU.
> 
> Other than that, I think it's the same as Rev 1.
> 
> I got my Rev1 January 2012 because I was forced to update when my MSI board fried. So I got a few years left on warranty. But this board is solid. So complaints.


Fast boot? Isn't that the feature that locks out Linux or any OS that isn't Windows from being installed?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*


nice GJ !! have you tested if the nb wb interferes with the pcie

@Pakeo

http://www.techrepublic.com/blog/windows-and-office/how-windows-8-hybrid-shutdown-fast-boot-feature-works/


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> nice GJ !! have you tested if the nb wb interferes with the pcie
> 
> @Pakeo
> 
> http://www.techrepublic.com/blog/windows-and-office/how-windows-8-hybrid-shutdown-fast-boot-feature-works/


looks pretty close......looks like it was done properly though







Thats using the parts from the other thread about waterblocking the saber?


----------



## TRusselo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> nice GJ !! have you tested if the nb wb interferes with the pcie


unless he has a really thick backplate he should be fine. My backplate comes almost flush with the plastic of the PCI header


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> nice GJ !! have you tested if the nb wb interferes with the pcie
> 
> @Pakeo
> 
> http://www.techrepublic.com/blog/windows-and-office/how-windows-8-hybrid-shutdown-fast-boot-feature-works/


It doesn't touch the PCIe lane, there is a gap and my card doesn't touch it, been running it for a month or so.


----------



## Mike The Owl

Nice one Benji, that should cool the VRMs nicely


----------



## umeng2002

Has anyone ran into audio issues with PCI Express sound cards?

With my old X-Fi Titanium, I'd get pops and clicks every now and then in any PCIe slot.

I just ordered a Sound Blaster Z, and I hope Creative fixed their old, crappy PCIe interface issues.

I have one GPU (GTX 970) in the top slot. According to ASUS, it shared IRQs with the blocked PCIe1x slot, on board audio and the last PCIeX16 slot.

The 2nd 16x slot isn't shared with anything but the PCI slot and 3rd party SATA controller (both I don't use), BUT if I use this, it'll be right next to my 970 - which I'd like to avoid for thermal issues.

The 3rd x16 slot is shared with the AMD SATA controller and USB 3.0 chip. Knowing AMD, this could be an issue since they generally suck with I/O.
_____________________________________________________________

Now, in Windows 8, none of the shared IRQ according to ASUS are actually shared except for the USB and some other thing, which doesn't matter for this. Windows reports diff IRQs for things ASUS claims should be shared.









Right now, I have zero issues using on board audio even though Realtek claims it's shared with the 970 (It's not according Windows), so I was thinking of putting the SBz in the last PCIe16x slot. Although Creative says to keep off slots that share resources, again, I have no issues with the on board sound chip.
______________________________________________________________

Maybe I should ask this in the SBz thread, but

tl;dr Does it matter what slot I put the audio card in?


----------



## xxela

Hi guys,
I have a FX 8370 at 5.05 on a Sabertooth R 2.0 and today I try to enable some power saving features. So, I had C6 enabled all this time but now I tried C1+Cool'n'Quiet and after it booted to windows I saw that on idle although the frequency dropped to 1500 the voltage stayed at 1.452 all the time. I presumed that is because of LLC that was on ultra high so I reboot and changed it on high and after reboot the same thing, the voltage was between 1.440-1.452 and doesn't dropped according to the frequency. So if someone has experienced the same thing maybe will share with me the setting that I should change in order to have a proper voltage scaling and if that change will have impact on the CPU stability.
Thanks


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*


I want to do this. My 80mm fans keeps dying for some reason.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxela*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I have a FX 8370 at 5.05 on a Sabertooth R 2.0 and today I try to enable some power saving features. So, I had C6 enabled all this time but now I tried C1+Cool'n'Quiet and after it booted to windows I saw that on idle although the frequency dropped to 1500 the voltage stayed at 1.452 all the time. I presumed that is because of LLC that was on ultra high so I reboot and changed it on high and after reboot the same thing, the voltage was between 1.440-1.452 and doesn't dropped according to the frequency. So if someone has experienced the same thing maybe will share with me the setting that I should change in order to have a proper voltage scaling and if that change will have impact on the CPU stability.
> Thanks


Why should the new cpu setting change the voltage?


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Has anyone ran into audio issues with PCI Express sound cards?
> 
> With my old X-Fi Titanium, I'd get pops and clicks every now and then in any PCIe slot.
> 
> I just ordered a Sound Blaster Z, and I hope Creative fixed their old, crappy PCIe interface issues.
> 
> I have one GPU (GTX 970) in the top slot. According to ASUS, it shared IRQs with the blocked PCIe1x slot, on board audio and the last PCIeX16 slot.
> 
> The 2nd 16x slot isn't shared with anything but the PCI slot and 3rd party SATA controller (both I don't use), BUT if I use this, it'll be right next to my 970 - which I'd like to avoid for thermal issues.
> 
> The 3rd x16 slot is shared with the AMD SATA controller and USB 3.0 chip. Knowing AMD, this could be an issue since they generally suck with I/O.
> _____________________________________________________________
> 
> Now, in Windows 8, none of the shared IRQ according to ASUS are actually shared except for the USB and some other thing, which doesn't matter for this. Windows reports diff IRQs for things ASUS claims should be shared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right now, I have zero issues using on board audio even though Realtek claims it's shared with the 970 (It's not according Windows), so I was thinking of putting the SBz in the last PCIe16x slot. Although Creative says to keep off slots that share resources, again, I have no issues with the on board sound chip.
> ______________________________________________________________
> 
> Maybe I should ask this in the SBz thread, but
> 
> tl;dr Does it matter what slot I put the audio card in?


It does not matter where you plug in the sound card. I have my Sound Blaster Z plugged into a PCI slot not a PCI-E slot and it runs just fine.


----------



## xxela

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Why should the new cpu setting change the voltage?


I'm not sure I understand what you mean. I asked I someone know if is another setting that I should change, beside C1 and Cool'n'Quiet, in order to lower the voltage in the same time with the frequency. Because right now it doesn't work. Even after I enabled C1,C6 and Cool'n'Quiet options in Bios the voltage remain at highest value - 1.440 - although the frequency drop to 1500.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxela*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Why should the new cpu setting change the voltage?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure I understand what you mean. I asked I someone know if is another setting that I should change, beside C1 and Cool'n'Quiet, in order to lower the voltage in the same time with the frequency. Because right now it doesn't work. Even after I enabled C1,C6 and Cool'n'Quiet options in Bios the voltage remain at highest value - 1.440 - although the frequency drop to 1500.
Click to expand...

Can youpost AMD Overdrive P-States? I like Bulldozer because I can use Turion Power Control. Did you tried it? It's very useful. PM me.


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> It does not matter where you plug in the sound card. I have my Sound Blaster Z plugged into a PCI slot not a PCI-E slot and it runs just fine.


B... but it's only PCI express


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxela*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I have a FX 8370 at 5.05 on a Sabertooth R 2.0 and today I try to enable some power saving features. So, I had C6 enabled all this time but now I tried C1+Cool'n'Quiet and after it booted to windows I saw that on idle although the frequency dropped to 1500 the voltage stayed at 1.452 all the time. I presumed that is because of LLC that was on ultra high so I reboot and changed it on high and after reboot the same thing, the voltage was between 1.440-1.452 and doesn't dropped according to the frequency. So if someone has experienced the same thing maybe will share with me the setting that I should change in order to have a proper voltage scaling and if that change will have impact on the CPU stability.
> Thanks


Once you set manual voltage, the voltage "throttling" goes out the window. Cool n Quiet will only down the multiplier. You would need a program to tweak the power states like PhenomMsrTweaker


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Please do tell. What Exactly does Intel offer that you needed so bad
> 
> In my experience nothing.


I know I'm behind on this but It's been a busy week.

I didn't say that Intel has more to offer or that they offer anything far superior to AMD, all I said is I'm tired of waiting for AMD to release new stuff.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> B... but it's only PCI express


Ooops. You are right.







It is fitted into a PCI-E slot. What I meant to say is that it will fit into any PCI-E slot and isn't restricted to a mini slot.


----------



## xxela

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Once you set manual voltage, the voltage "throttling" goes out the window. Cool n Quiet will only down the multiplier. You would need a program to tweak the power states like PhenomMsrTweaker


So the voltage wont go down if I set the voltage to manual? that's weird. Is a specific feature for Sabertooth MBs? because I had a M5A97 and I don't remember having this 'problem'. Anyway I`l try that program PhenomMsrTweaker to see if it works. Thanks for the tip.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxela*
> 
> So the voltage wont go down if I set the voltage to manual? that's weird. Is a specific feature for Sabertooth MBs? because I had a M5A97 and I don't remember having this 'problem'. Anyway I`l try that program PhenomMsrTweaker to see if it works. Thanks for the tip.


What do you mean by voltage going down?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxela*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I have a FX 8370 at 5.05 on a Sabertooth R 2.0 and today I try to enable some power saving features. So, I had C6 enabled all this time but now I tried C1+Cool'n'Quiet and after it booted to windows I saw that on idle although the frequency dropped to 1500 the voltage stayed at 1.452 all the time. I presumed that is because of LLC that was on ultra high so I reboot and changed it on high and after reboot the same thing, the voltage was between 1.440-1.452 and doesn't dropped according to the frequency. So if someone has experienced the same thing maybe will share with me the setting that I should change in order to have a proper voltage scaling and if that change will have impact on the CPU stability.
> Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xxela*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I have a FX 8370 at 5.05 on a Sabertooth R 2.0 and today I try to enable some power saving features. So, I had C6 enabled all this time but now I tried C1+Cool'n'Quiet and after it booted to windows I saw that on idle although the frequency dropped to 1500 the voltage stayed at 1.452 all the time. I presumed that is because of LLC that was on ultra high so I reboot and changed it on high and after reboot the same thing, the voltage was between 1.440-1.452 and doesn't dropped according to the frequency. So if someone has experienced the same thing maybe will share with me the setting that I should change in order to have a proper voltage scaling and if that change will have impact on the CPU stability.
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Once you set manual voltage, the voltage "throttling" goes out the window. Cool n Quiet will only down the multiplier. You would need a program to tweak the power states like PhenomMsrTweaker
Click to expand...

this is mostly correct
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxela*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Once you set manual voltage, the voltage "throttling" goes out the window. Cool n Quiet will only down the multiplier. You would need a program to tweak the power states like PhenomMsrTweaker
> 
> 
> 
> So the voltage wont go down if I set the voltage to manual? that's weird. Is a specific feature for Sabertooth MBs? because I had a M5A97 and I don't remember having this 'problem'. Anyway I`l try that program PhenomMsrTweaker to see if it works. Thanks for the tip.
Click to expand...

it is not specific to any board but all boards do this

however no reason to use some crappy program ( *not that that program is crappy* but why have another process running when you dont need it )

set to offset and set the same voltage at offset

HOW TO

1 save your current OC to a profile

2 set to default ( NOT CLEAR CMOS ) iirc it is f7 however i could be wrong DO NOT EXIT YET

3 set all powersaving ( CnQ C1e C6 APM HPC ) to OFF

4 save and reboot

either go back into bios and look at vcore OR use HWINFO and look at vid ! should be ~ 1.3 assuming it is a 83xx chip

( you can also look at vid IF ALL power saving features are OFF IN HWINFO ( and only in it ) without doing steps 1-4 )

5 reload your oc profile

take your vid
subtract your vid from needed vcore for oc.

IE you need 1.435v for your oc

your vid is 1.285
1.435-1.285= 0.15

0.15 is your offset ( + )

then CnQ will lower vcore and freq ~~~


----------



## xxela

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this is mostly correct
> it is not specific to any board but all boards do this
> 
> however no reason to use some crappy program ( *not that that program is crappy* but why have another process running when you dont need it )
> 
> set to offset and set the same voltage at offset
> 
> HOW TO
> 
> 1 save your current OC to a profile
> 
> 2 set to default ( NOT CLEAR CMOS ) iirc it is f7 however i could be wrong DO NOT EXIT YET
> 
> 3 set all powersaving ( CnQ C1e C6 APM HPC ) to OFF
> 
> 4 save and reboot
> 
> either go back into bios and look at vcore OR use HWINFO and look at vid ! should be ~ 1.3 assuming it is a 83xx chip
> 
> ( you can also look at vid IF ALL power saving features are OFF IN HWINFO ( and only in it ) without doing steps 1-4 )
> 
> 5 reload your oc profile
> 
> take your vid
> subtract your vid from needed vcore for oc.
> 
> IE you need 1.435v for your oc
> 
> your vid is 1.285
> 1.435-1.285= 0.15
> 
> 0.15 is your offset ( + )
> 
> then CnQ will lower vcore and freq ~~~


Thanks a lot for your tutorial. I`l try this.
However not all boards do this. Like I said, I had a M5A97 and a FX 6300 at 4.8 and the voltage was set on manual at 1.480 and as far as I remember in windows I had proper voltage-frequency scaling when Cool'n'Quiet was enabled.


----------



## xxela

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> What do you mean by voltage going down?


I mean going down when Cool'n'Quiet is enabled


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxela*
> 
> I mean going down when Cool'n'Quiet is enabled


What are your power settings in windows?
Control panel-> Power Options -> Edit Plan Settings -> Processer power management


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxela*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this is mostly correct
> it is not specific to any board but all boards do this
> 
> however no reason to use some crappy program ( *not that that program is crappy* but why have another process running when you dont need it )
> 
> set to offset and set the same voltage at offset
> 
> HOW TO
> 
> 1 save your current OC to a profile
> 
> 2 set to default ( NOT CLEAR CMOS ) iirc it is f7 however i could be wrong DO NOT EXIT YET
> 
> 3 set all powersaving ( CnQ C1e C6 APM HPC ) to OFF
> 
> 4 save and reboot
> 
> either go back into bios and look at vcore OR use HWINFO and look at vid ! should be ~ 1.3 assuming it is a 83xx chip
> 
> ( you can also look at vid IF ALL power saving features are OFF IN HWINFO ( and only in it ) without doing steps 1-4 )
> 
> 5 reload your oc profile
> 
> take your vid
> subtract your vid from needed vcore for oc.
> 
> IE you need 1.435v for your oc
> 
> your vid is 1.285
> 1.435-1.285= 0.15
> 
> 0.15 is your offset ( + )
> 
> then CnQ will lower vcore and freq ~~~
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot for your tutorial. I`l try this.
> However not all boards do this. Like I said, I had a M5A97 and a FX 6300 at 4.8 and the voltage was set on manual at 1.480 and as far as I remember in windows I had proper voltage-frequency scaling when Cool'n'Quiet was enabled.
Click to expand...

I know what you're saying. But no. It didn't.

I have delt with that Mobo too
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xxela*
> 
> I mean going down when Cool'n'Quiet is enabled
> 
> 
> 
> What are your power settings in windows?
> Control panel-> Power Options -> Edit Plan Settings -> Processer power management
Click to expand...

This isn't the problem as it is fluctuating the speed


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I know what you're saying. But no. It didn't.
> 
> I have delt with that Mobo too
> 
> This isn't the problem as it is fluctuating the speed


Well I had offset voltage set up but my speeds and voltages didn't drop until i set it up in windows? Have I missed something?


----------



## xxela

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Well I had offset voltage set up but my speeds and voltages didn't drop until i set it up in windows? Have I missed something?


I'm not at home and I didn't try that offset tip but of course if you don't have enabled those settings in windows it wouldn't work. However that wasn't my case, I already had those settings enabled, and beside this windows enable "balanced power plan" from default.Mega Man knew this since I explain in my post that the frequency is dropping but the problem is the voltage.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I know what you're saying. But no. It didn't.
> 
> I have delt with that Mobo too
> 
> This isn't the problem as it is fluctuating the speed
> 
> 
> 
> Well I had offset voltage set up but my speeds and voltages didn't drop until i set it up in windows? Have I missed something?
Click to expand...

again He said he is seeing speeds drop but not volts


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Ooops. You are right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is fitted into a PCI-E slot. What I meant to say is that it will fit into any PCI-E slot and isn't restricted to a mini slot.


Yeah, I know it'll work in any PCIe slot, but has any one ran into IRQ/ buffer issues causing pops or clicks in audio or micro-stuttering in games?

It's probably more an X-Fi thing.

As for the voltage power savings, I'll have to look into Offset voltage too...


----------



## miklkit

Not me. I do have audio and mouse issues in one old game, but all other games are just fine. I have my x-fi mounted in the bottom slot just above the PSU.


----------



## hurricane28

Hi guys,

I have question, i tried to install the latest chipset drivers from the AMD site but it seems that it doesn't install correctly.

Normally when catalyst control center is installed i could access it when right click on desktop but there is no catalyst control center anymore and every time when i boot my system the chipset drivers are being reset and i get the noise that when you insert new hardware.

Anyone else has these problems?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I have question, i tried to install the latest chipset drivers from the AMD site but it seems that it doesn't install correctly.
> 
> Normally when catalyst control center is installed i could access it when right click on desktop but there is no catalyst control center anymore and every time when i boot my system the chipset drivers are being reset and i get the noise that when you insert new hardware.
> 
> Anyone else has these problems?


Have you done a reformat and fresh windows install since your O/S got corrupted?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Have you done a reformat and fresh windows install since your O/S got corrupted?


yeah just the repair doesn't count







anytime mines bad enough to require the repair I normally.backup what I need and reformat its a hassle but.it's better than chasing down problems and troubleshooting all the affected hardware etc..


----------



## xxela

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this is mostly correct
> it is not specific to any board but all boards do this
> 
> however no reason to use some crappy program ( *not that that program is crappy* but why have another process running when you dont need it )
> 
> set to offset and set the same voltage at offset
> 
> HOW TO
> 
> 1 save your current OC to a profile
> 
> 2 set to default ( NOT CLEAR CMOS ) iirc it is f7 however i could be wrong DO NOT EXIT YET
> 
> 3 set all powersaving ( CnQ C1e C6 APM HPC ) to OFF
> 
> 4 save and reboot
> 
> either go back into bios and look at vcore OR use HWINFO and look at vid ! should be ~ 1.3 assuming it is a 83xx chip
> 
> ( you can also look at vid IF ALL power saving features are OFF IN HWINFO ( and only in it ) without doing steps 1-4 )
> 
> 5 reload your oc profile
> 
> take your vid
> subtract your vid from needed vcore for oc.
> 
> IE you need 1.435v for your oc
> 
> your vid is 1.285
> 1.435-1.285= 0.15
> 
> 0.15 is your offset ( + )
> 
> then CnQ will lower vcore and freq ~~~


Thanks man it worked fine.


----------



## Mega Man

Glad you got it working


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> It doesn't touch the PCIe lane, there is a gap and my card doesn't touch it, been running it for a month or so.


pm me the waterblocks used.. im about to do something like this


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> pm me the waterblocks used.. im about to do something like this


http://www.overclock.net/t/1468642/how-to-watercool-the-asus-990fx-sabertooth-rev2-0-vrms-and-nb


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1468642/how-to-watercool-the-asus-990fx-sabertooth-rev2-0-vrms-and-nb


Tnx forgot about that thread


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Tnx forgot about that thread


Blocks I used are in there, I used the Heatkiller NSB rev 3 rather than the CHC-122 because A) didn't want to mod it & B) it wouldn't allow me to use compression fittings.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Have you done a reformat and fresh windows install since your O/S got corrupted?


Yep and the strange thing is is that it had the same problems as before..

I was in the AMD omega thread and there was an Windows update that causes all kinds of problems.. the strange thing is, is that i looked at the Microsoft page and they said that they had released an update that removed the bad update.

So i was looking in my windows update to be sure it was completely removed but it obviously wasn't, removed the update and everything is working like a charm again









Darn Windows with their stupid updates... Information is here if you like to read it: https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_7-windows_update/windows-update-kb3004394-issues/ace25277-7f65-4486-bc44-c1b106907a18?page=1


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yep and the strange thing is is that it had the same problems as before..
> 
> I was in the AMD omega thread and there was an Windows update that causes all kinds of problems.. the strange thing is, is that i looked at the Microsoft page and they said that they had released an update that removed the bad update.
> 
> So i was looking in my windows update to be sure it was completely removed but it obviously wasn't, removed the update and everything is working like a charm again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darn Windows with their stupid updates... Information is here if you like to read it: https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_7-windows_update/windows-update-kb3004394-issues/ace25277-7f65-4486-bc44-c1b106907a18?page=1


When you install, do you make sure no other hard drive is installed when doing so? Reason I ask is because the install procedure likes to put files onto other available hard drives, a tip from Linus tech tips.


----------



## Pudfark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> When you install, do you make sure no other hard drive is installed when doing so? Reason I ask is because the install procedure likes to put files onto other available hard drives, a tip from Linus tech tips.


That's darn good advice Benjiw. While everybody knows that, some folks forget it. Good of you to post it again as a reminder to all.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> When you install, do you make sure no other hard drive is installed when doing so? Reason I ask is because the install procedure likes to put files onto other available hard drives, a tip from Linus tech tips.


Yes i know that, but never had trouble with it to be honest. Everything works like a charm again after i deleted the Windows update.

Are you following Linus Tech tips?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yes i know that, but never had trouble with it to be honest. Everything works like a charm again after i deleted the Windows update.
> 
> Are you following Linus Tech tips?


On youtube, I don't go to the forum anymore, it's full of misinformation. If there are files on a drive from a previous install it might be conflicting. If the install is fresh maybe look into finding some errors in your REGEDIT.


----------



## umeng2002

Running in offset mode now. I feel better now that the CPU isn't always idling at 1.404 volts.


----------



## Mega Man

Glad you got it working.


----------



## just wondering

Should cool n quiet be set to disabled by cpu or always enabled?


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just wondering*
> 
> Should cool n quiet be set to disabled by cpu or always enabled?


I have mine disabled whilst setting my overclock, once the overclock is stable I then enable it. But others may disagree.


----------



## just wondering

Thank you for you reply , i shall give that a go , i currently have it set as disabled by CPU .

I shall see if it makes a difference in general via HWinfo64









Cheers


----------



## wolfwalker

So I've got a weird one, I built a 9590/sabertooth box identical to my old one and sent it to the east coast where it's been doing light server duty at work for a few months now. Suddenly I notice the CPU fan and CPU Opt are both at 100% rpm.

Neither speedfan nor AIsuite can alter the fan speed on those two headers and nothing reports any errors
All the other fans behave as they should.

I haven't had a chance to reboot the thing or get someone to check the bios, but it was an out of the blue
occurrence as this box runs 24/7. And yes it's cold where it's at, very.

Anyone ever heard of such?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> So I've got a weird one, I built a 9590/sabertooth box identical to my old one and sent it to the east coast where it's been doing light server duty at work for a few months now. Suddenly I notice the CPU fan and CPU Opt are both at 100% rpm.
> 
> Neither speedfan nor AIsuite can alter the fan speed on those two headers and nothing reports any errors
> All the other fans behave as they should.
> 
> I haven't had a chance to reboot the thing or get someone to check the bios, but it was an out of the blue
> occurrence as this box runs 24/7. And yes it's cold where it's at, very.
> 
> Anyone ever heard of such?


have you checked cpu temps...how cold are we talking?


----------



## miklkit

I had a Gigabyte UD3 where the bios "forgot" to rev up the fans under load. It took the CPU over 80C at least 3 times before I figured it out.


----------



## wolfwalker

20's-40's F ambient. rest of the thermally controlled case fans are lazing along as expected.

I guess I could hot it up with prime95 or something and see if that wakes it up.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> 20's-40's F ambient. rest of the thermally controlled case fans are lazing along as expected.
> 
> I guess I could hot it up with prime95 or something and see if that wakes it up.


that's odd...reboot normally fixes any issues I have with fan curves...but I don't ever remote connect


----------



## wolfwalker

Reboot didn't do it, haven't had anyone pop in the bios yet but nothing's been changed.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I'm going to ask this here... I've got some new ram coming in... its 2400mhz 1.65v I've heard and think I've read somewhere that 1.6v was max for FX cpu's on RAM voltage... I don't really care if I can run it at full speed or not... got a real good deal on these sticks... just want to know for sure the volt limits... btw rig is in sig.
This is the ram I got...not the price I paid lol...but this is the ram...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233600


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I'm going to ask this here... I've got some new ram coming in... its 2400mhz 1.65v I've heard and think I've read somewhere that 1.6v was max for FX cpu's on RAM voltage... I don't really care if I can run it at full speed or not... got a real good deal on these sticks... just want to know for sure the volt limits... btw rig is in sig.
> This is the ram I got...not the price I paid lol...but this is the ram...
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233600


I've got mine running at 1.65 and have been since I got them


----------



## Minotaurtoo

maybe im remembering wrong, just wanting to be sure just in case i decide to go for 2400 lol


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> maybe im remembering wrong, just wanting to be sure just in case i decide to go for 2400 lol


mines 2133 cl 9 @ 1.65v...if I remember correctly someone stated it shouldn't hit 1.7 without proper cooling


----------



## Mega Man

They are designed to take up to 1.975 without immediate damage. They started ( ddr3 ) at 1.7


----------



## ManofGod1000

Seriously considering getting a 990FX Sabertooth r2.0 used FULFILLED by Amazon for $140. What do you guys think? The only reason is to play around since my Asrock Extreme 9 seems to hit a wall at 4.6GHz. Also, I just recently purchased a NH-D15 and will be sticking with that since it will have no issues getting me up to 5.0 Ghz assuming the chip and board can do it.


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManofGod1000*
> 
> Seriously considering getting a 990FX Sabertooth r2.0 used FULFILLED by Amazon for $140. What do you guys think? The only reason is to play around since my Asrock Extreme 9 seems to hit a wall at 4.6GHz. Also, I just recently purchased a NH-D15 and will be sticking with that since it will have no issues getting me up to 5.0 Ghz assuming the chip and board can do it.


Go for it, you will find it a totally different experience.


----------



## TRusselo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> Reboot didn't do it, haven't had anyone pop in the bios yet but nothing's been changed.


check the bios settings for the fans.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManofGod1000*
> 
> Seriously considering getting a 990FX Sabertooth r2.0 used FULFILLED by Amazon for $140. What do you guys think? The only reason is to play around since my Asrock Extreme 9 seems to hit a wall at 4.6GHz. Also, I just recently purchased a NH-D15 and will be sticking with that since it will have no issues getting me up to 5.0 Ghz assuming the chip and board can do it.


Good luck! You'll need it to get that 5GHz stable!


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

I'm at BIOS rev 2104 and have had no stability issues so I passed on 2301. This latest BIOS update (2501) says it enhances USB for some devices. Now this interests me as I've never been happy with the USB performance on this board since I got it, particularly when plugging in my phone and tablet. Most of the time it works fine, other times (not too often, but often enough) it has trouble maintaining a connection to those devices. This has always been something that has annoyed me to no end and thought this BIOS may address that.

My questions are this:
Have had my FX8350 running at 4.6 nice and stable for about a year or so and I'm happy with it. If I upgrade to the latest bios will it wipe out my OC settings? If so is there a way to just save the configuration and load it up in one shot after I flash?

Or...is this bios upgrade even worth it? I hate how horribly vague these updates are "Improves system stability" or "enhanced USB support for some devices"

Thanks in advance


----------



## toppas

my oc presets stayed within the bios update.
but you always should load optimized settings or rather default settings while updating.
if you have no problems I would skip it.
2501 solved the sleep issue I had. every time after woken up from S3 the overclocking was gone and multiplier was set to default.
for me that was a major issue which I dealt with several months because there is no changelog to tell you whereas 2501 already was available. you really don't know what you will get. at least it will do something.


----------



## davcc22

well it looks like im no longer part of the club my saburekitty is in a draw waiting to be sold.....


----------



## Automaton25

I purchased a Sabertooth r2.0 a while ago and just started overclocking it. I am new to the overclocking scene and this board does way more than I know....I was wondering if anyone would be interested in assisting me with a full system overclock? I have an AMD fx 8350 currently sitting at 4.67 at 1.506v. I have my LLC at high but I have no idea what else to do. The chip is not stable beyond where it's at. My temps are 26 at idle and 62 and full load. I have a nvdia 750ti fx card and g.skill ripjaws ram. The cpu is being cooled by a Cryorig R1 Universal. Any input would be greatly appreciated!!! I know my voltage is getting high and I don't want to destroy anything or degrade the chip anymore than necessary.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Automaton25*
> 
> I purchased a Sabertooth r2.0 a while ago and just started overclocking it. I am new to the overclocking scene and this board does way more than I know....I was wondering if anyone would be interested in assisting me with a full system overclock? I have an AMD fx 8350 currently sitting at 4.67 at 1.506v. I have my LLC at high but I have no idea what else to do. The chip is not stable beyond where it's at. My temps are 26 at idle and 62 and full load. I have a nvdia 750ti fx card and g.skill ripjaws ram. The cpu is being cooled by a Cryorig R1 Universal. Any input would be greatly appreciated!!! I know my voltage is getting high and I don't want to destroy anything or degrade the chip anymore than necessary.


Have you checked out this guide? http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard/0_50

Plus this thread has a few folks that been helping peeps with their 8350's since release date: http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club/0_50


----------



## miklkit

I got a lot of help here a while back. You might find some pointers starting with this post. http://www.overclock.net/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-amd-owners-club/7760#post_23089635


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Automaton25*
> 
> I purchased a Sabertooth r2.0 a while ago and just started overclocking it. I am new to the overclocking scene and this board does way more than I know....I was wondering if anyone would be interested in assisting me with a full system overclock? I have an AMD fx 8350 currently sitting at 4.67 at 1.506v. I have my LLC at high but I have no idea what else to do. The chip is not stable beyond where it's at. My temps are 26 at idle and 62 and full load. I have a nvdia 750ti fx card and g.skill ripjaws ram. The cpu is being cooled by a Cryorig R1 Universal. Any input would be greatly appreciated!!! I know my voltage is getting high and I don't want to destroy anything or degrade the chip anymore than necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> Have you checked out this guide? http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard/0_50
> 
> Plus this thread has a few folks that been helping peeps with their 8350's since release date: http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club/0_50
Click to expand...

on top of this, you need to fill out rig builder ( see my sig ) and put in your sig,

then once you get stuck post some bios screenshots and we can help further

basic things to do

vcore- dependent on cooling
cpu/nb between 1.2-1.3v
nb 1.2
that should get you started


----------



## Krusher33

^ There's also Mega Man who's pretty good at helping too.


----------



## toppas

just experienced a thermal shutdown while browsing overclock.net.
forgot to turn on my fans as I thought I had cnq enabled where my mora3 was able to manage the system cooling passive when idling with cnq enabled.
had to laugh about myself as I didn't think of anything bad while looking at my reservoir somehow confused because the water level was raising. lol
what you guys think was hitting the panic button? I had hpc disabled. last package temp shown was 61 degrees celsius. don't know about socket or vrm temps.
system was freezing and shuts down a couple of seconds after.
I hope kitty will forgive.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toppas*
> 
> just experienced a thermal shutdown while browsing overclock.net.
> forgot to turn on my fans as I thought I had cnq enabled where my mora3 was able to manage the system cooling passive when idling with cnq enabled.
> had to laugh about myself as I didn't think of anything bad while looking at my reservoir somehow confused because the water level was raising. lol
> what you guys think was hitting the panic button? I had hpc disabled. last package temp shown was 61 degrees celsius. don't know about socket or vrm temps.
> system was freezing and shuts down a couple of seconds after.
> I hope kitty will forgive.


kitty will....the these chips can take a lickin...I've had thermal shutdown a few times due to pump failure on a h80i...I rarely have thermal issues these days as I've learned a lot from my old days of running stuff till it catches on fire







I keep my res as full as it can be so I can see when I need to top off


----------



## portify

Using a 990FX R2 with a FX 8120 and stock CPU fan, factory clock (3100) and auto voltage everything. Idles in BIOS settings menu at 72 C.. cool.


----------



## Mega Man

congrats? maybe you should upgrade your cooler ?


----------



## dallas1990

has anyones back i/o audio ports stoped working? idk id its realtek or what.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *portify*
> 
> Using a 990FX R2 with a FX 8120 and stock CPU fan, factory clock (3100) and auto voltage everything. Idles in BIOS settings menu at 72 C.. cool.


72c...remount and repaste stat


----------



## mirzet1976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> has anyones back i/o audio ports stoped working? idk id its realtek or what.


Same here is an audio i/o stopped working about 2 months ago, now using sound card


----------



## dallas1990

I'm going to guess, anything that goes off realtek is categorized "not plugged in"


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> I'm going to guess, anything that goes off realtek is categorized "not plugged in"


lol!


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> has anyones back i/o audio ports stoped working? idk id its realtek or what.


Still working fine for me. Though I haven't upgraded BIOS since... more than a year ago.


----------



## dallas1990

All I did was upgrade my graphics card to dual 290x in cf. Now it tells me everything but my monitors is "not plugged in" Oh well been wanting to build a x99 rig for awhile. I love this mobo still just not very good for gaming since audio took the plunge. As of sound cards I have around 3 different kinds and didn't like much.


----------



## Krusher33

Have you tried disabling HDMI audio (if you're not using that)?


----------



## mus1mus

Check default audio device. Or device manager. Something may have been missing.


----------



## dallas1990

I did both and still nothing worked


----------



## Krusher33

I just remember HDMI's fudging up people's audio's but I just don't remember what it was. I don't blame you for having frustrations about it though. I know I'd be frustrated about it.


----------



## dallas1990

im beyond flustered lol XD but its ok


----------



## zila

My onboard sound went out too but it was a blessing in disguise for me. I purchased a Asus Xonar DG 5.1 pci sound card and never looked back. I now have awesome sound and gaming is a pleasure.







I'm only using a single card though.


----------



## ManofGod1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pakeo*
> 
> True, it's very stable. I don't know, I guess I was just annoyed they came out with Rev 2 shortly after I built my system with Rev 1. And then another six months later, Rev 3 came out. But it is a very good board, no problems with it whatsoever, 3 1/2 years strong. makes you wonder why there were two revisions. Guess I just got caught up with the tech cycle. It's possible they'd replace it with a Rev 3, but you're probably right about it being Rev 2. Well, I got 2 1/2 more years on my warranty.
> I don't think it's obsolete yet. I haven't really pushed anything to the limit, since I used to play Planetside 2. That would get my video card pretty warm. I have a feeling I'm going to have to upgrade that at least soon, but the motherboard wouldn't affect this too much. Graphics have a much shorter cycle than boards. Most people replace their boards when they upgrade their CPU, usually cause they're forced to. (I'm looking at *you* Intel!) Any idea what's coming down the line for mobos? All I've heard of is PCIe 4.0.
> You guys talking about this stuff is making me think about how old my system is. Knock it off. It's not even that old. And no one needs 32 GB RAM unless they're running VMs. (Although, more is always better when talking VMs.)
> And if you need it, the ability to build a Hackintosh. Although, I've heard you can set up a Mac VM with an AMD processor, but it's _*a lot*_ more difficult than if you had an Intel under the hood. Plus you could just run OS X locally with an Intel system, if you wished.


This is exactly why I upgraded from 16GB of ram to 32GB of ram in my work computer. I like to run up to 5 VM's at once and I run them off a 240GB PNY SSD.







I am using the FX 8320 I bought in 2013 at 4.4 GHz and it is installed in the Asrock 990FX Extreme 4 board I bought in 2011. I do not upgrade all at once but only when I would benefit from it.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> My onboard sound went out too but it was a blessing in disguise for me. I purchased a Asus Xonar DG 5.1 pci sound card and never looked back. I now have awesome sound and gaming is a pleasure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm only using a single card though.


Ha I had done the same thing


----------



## bote110

I'm waiting for my new Sabartooth R2.0 {AMD} motherboard to come it should be here tomorrow. It should look great in my new Phanteks Enthoo Pro Series case . Does any one have this setup? Just wanting to know witch header to use my PWM Hub? (CPU_Fan or CPU_Opt) and can I use a PWM "Y" PWM Splitter to run a push pull on my CPU Cooler on the opposite CPU Header?


----------



## cbosdell

I just got my Sabertooth R2.0 yesterday and so far liking it a lot more than the Gigabyte board (that admittedly cost half the price) it replaced. In particular the bios are a lot better, liking the high number of SATA and USB ports and how easy it is to update the bios.


----------



## bote110

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cbosdell*
> 
> I just got my Sabertooth R2.0 yesterday and so far liking it a lot more than the Gigabyte board (that admittedly cost half the price) it replaced. In particular the bios are a lot better, liking the high number of SATA and USB ports and how easy it is to update the bios.


Just got mine I like the feel and the look and the 5 year warranty that comes with the board, I've got another computer I've got to fix for a family before I can start working on this board.


----------



## cbosdell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bote110*
> 
> Just got mine I like the feel and the look and the 5 year warranty that comes with the board, I've got another computer I've got to fix for a family before I can start working on this board.


I didn't even realize it had a five year warranty. That's awesome. The board does look great. The SATA ports being sideways was really annoying to get plugged in but gives the inside of the case a much cleaner look (when you have 6+ SATA devices like me lol).


----------



## Minotaurtoo

yeah I love that warranty... makes it easier to punish the cpu when you don't' have to worry over the board as much lol


----------



## Noviets

Hey guys, i've recently had a reoccurring issue with my overclock.

When I turn on my machine, I get "MemOK passed, Press F1 to enter setup"

Am I have memory issues? I've even tried running the sticks on their stock rates speeds and below. Still the same thing.

It happens when I turn the machine on and reboot (Restart) but not every single time.

At first I thought my CMOS battery was dying, but all of my OC profiles are intact.

The system is still stable, I can load my OC profile and off it goes till the next reboot.

Has anyone had this issue before?

Running BIOS version 2301

Rig is below

Edit: I forgot to mention I've had my OC set for about two years now, this is a recent issue.


----------



## Mega Man

It sounds like something is pressing the mem ok button tbh


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> It sounds like something is pressing the mem ok button tbh


yeah i was gonna suggest the memok button was stuck for some reason...id press it and then restart just to see...because if it was with over clock or settings it would say overclock failed ;0


----------



## miklkit

Here is an interesting comparison between an 8350 + HE01 and an 8370 + Silver Arrow. It looks like the HE01 cools the board better and the SA cools the CPU better.


----------



## miklkit

It seems I have forgotten almost everything I learned 6 months ago about this Sabertooth bios. I have gone back and done some reading, but seem to have missed some things. For instance setting it to manual doesn't do anything. It has to be on DOCP before anything can be changed, and even then it seems to have a mind of its own.
Ferinstance, LLC is on AUTO. Setting it to HIGH gets a big drop in vcore with no way I have found to increase it. The manual is no help unless I missed the part explaining how to do it. At least on auto it can be adjusted.

The memory is doing fine with a current fsb of 245 and I am impressed by how stable the voltages are. On the other hand I have seen vrm temps as high as 80C. Gotta do something about that.


----------



## Mega Man

Llc usually ( depends on bios version ) defaults to extreme. As stated try high-ultra high

Imo ultra is to much for a air collet and they can't take the heat spikes.

I don't know what you mean manual everything can be changed. You just don't have xmp support


----------



## bote110

I just my new system with the Asus Sabartooth this weekend with out a hic-up but a few thinks I would like to ask is ,
1. PEG/PCI What does this mean I have a MSI R9 280x GPU so I set this as PCI/PEG "What is a PEG?
2. I have G.Skills 1866 CL9 16GB {x2 8GB} my mother board reads this 1333MHz is this ok? Shouldn't this read at 14900 , or is this because I only have a Phenom II x4 965 CPU Chip ?
Any easy tweaks to make it just a tad faster.


----------



## Mega Man

1 it means gpu.

2 usually you have to set it up to 1866. However iirc anything over 1600 will damage the memory controller over time


----------



## miklkit

1. I don't know either. I saw that but did not touch it and my MSI R9 280X is working fine.

2. I have 16 gb of G. Skill ram too and it defaults to 1333, but it can be set higher. I set it to 1600 and go from there. The place to set it is somewhere in AI Tweaker. I'm still learning this bios too. Read the manual carefully and you will find it.

Yesterday the only way I could get it to do anything was to set it to DOCP. Today I started over and manual works. LLC is set to high and I'm using offset settings, but CnQ isn't working. Still lots to learn but it does seem to be running less hot. Those VRMs are a concern. Got it back up to 4.9.


----------



## Mega Man

Pci is pci ( Peripheral Component Interconnect )

Peg is pcie ( PCI EXPRESS GRAPHICS )

@miklkit

Check under power options. ( in windows )
Make sure min cpu is less then 100% )


----------



## miklkit

Ok, I found a setting like that and it was 100%, so I set it to 99%.


----------



## miklkit

Consider this a proof of concept run as it is only 10 passes. Temps are higher than they should be for the voltage and now the search is on for lower temps.

This 8370 is well up the wall. It only needs 1.464v to hit 4.936 ghz but needs 1.5v for 5.036 ghz. This is still much better than the 8350, which needed 1.524v to hit 4.823 ghz. This 8370 is batch number 1420 and the VID is 1.313v.

If anyone can see mistakes in this bios please let me know. I am sure I am doing something wrong.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

that sounds about right... my 8350 needed 1.52v to get 4.8 stable... and my 9590 only needs 1.45v to get 5ghz stable... (1.44 in bios with peaks of 1.464v in windows LLC on ultra high)


----------



## miklkit

Yeah, but even with lower volts everything is running hotter. Before I start working on other ideas I have I want to make sure I'm not shooting myself in the foot with messed up bios settings. I am not familiar with this bios and could easily be getting something wrong and not know it.


----------



## Mega Man

ht link may cause issues hope it doesnt however

EPU power saving off, but i wont lie i honestly never used it but i would do test on or off, may have to look further into it

you will have to test if your cooling can handle the vrm ( or add a fan somewhere )

but if you get active cooling on vrm

cpu phase control change to extreme ( iirc the name or w.e. max is )

CPU Power Duty Control i have better luck on Current ( the other option ) but others not so much

CPU and CPU/nb power response to extreme ( provides cleaner power and helps my ocs )

cpu voltage freq can also help to stabilize ocs !~

cpu vdda i have yet to see anyone post any evidence that it helps on asus boards, people say they do, but again i have no evidence ( leave at stock )

NB and NB HT will cause the most heat in my experience. to reduce if possible ( no reason for you to oc the ht anyway )

with your higher fsb NB 1.8 voltage may help stabilize FSB swings, please note DO NOT USE TOO MUCH ! i have overshot my fsb by over 50 by doing htis ( IE set to 200 and in bios 250 )

NO MORE THEN 0.005 to 0.001

everything else looks fine


----------



## miklkit

Well, I changed the OC tuner to see if it was on or off, and it turns out it was off. It reset everything to auto and clocked it to 4.3 so i am starting over again.

The VRMs are the problem area and I am thinking the board is warped causing the center ones to not touch the heat sink and overheat. While IBT was running I took out the laser thermometer and shot that area. The heat sink was 45-46C everywhere and the board on the top end was also 45C, but the sensor was reporting the center VRMs at 80C. There are ways to get more air in there to help.


----------



## Mega Man

you know how to save profiles right ?

although it is possible, i doubt it tbh.have you tried to tighten the screws on the sink


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Yeah, but even with lower volts everything is running hotter. Before I start working on other ideas I have I want to make sure I'm not shooting myself in the foot with messed up bios settings. I am not familiar with this bios and could easily be getting something wrong and not know it.


Try CPU LLC at Very High or whatever is on top of High. It Overshoots but with my test, after hearing it reduces temps, it does.

You will need to drop your Vcore by about 0.025 or 0.050 to get the same Voltage from High IIRC. And see if that does it's tricks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Well, I changed the OC tuner to see if it was on or off, and it turns out it was off. It reset everything to auto and clocked it to 4.3 so i am starting over again.
> 
> The VRMs are the problem area and I am thinking the board is warped causing the center ones to not touch the heat sink and overheat. While IBT was running I took out the laser thermometer and shot that area. The heat sink was 45-46C everywhere and the board on the top end was also 45C, but the sensor was reporting the center VRMs at 80C. There are ways to get more air in there to help.


Try to take off that VRM back plate and give it a little bump in the middle to counter the sag or warp. If of course you are up to that.

On a note, VRM switching freq does help a lot esp on the pursuit of lower Vcore to clock.

And yes, make sure your 8-pin EPS 12V pins and socket are tight. I have melted mine.


----------



## miklkit

I'm sure there is a way to save profiles somewhere, but its not a big priority yet as the settings are still in the early stages and constantly being changed.

I took another look with the LT this morning while running IBT VH and if it was held just so it showed 49.8C under the heat sink while HWINFO64 was reporting 77C. So I took of the back panel and there is the culprit. Ya that strip of tin is bowed out in the middle and while idling it was reading 43C.

This is an older narrow case and there isn't room for fans back there, but ve haff our vays to get air back there.









Will look into tuning later.


----------



## mus1mus

There is a setting to save profiles. But havent had a look at storing it to an external device.

You would have 8 profile slots to save to in the BIOS. Should be on the last menu if you hover the left and right arrow keys IIRC.

I was actually tempted to add a thicker aluminum bar at the backplate. Or some kind of a finned heatsink. That is before I melted my EPS socket though.


----------



## miklkit

It turns out the front side VRMs are fine and seem to run in the 45-50C range. It is the backside VRMs that overheat. It seems at 82C they destabilize as that is where IBT fails.

It is not possible to mount a fan on the backside so that is out. I made an air scoop to take case fan air and push it back there but all that did was make the cpu get hot. So now the search is on to find the max voltage the VRMs can take and then go with whatever clocks are stable there.

Those extreme settings increased heat for me so they are out too.


----------



## mus1mus

Max Voltage the VRMs can take?

hmm..

Someone said 1.7 Vcore.

I did 1.65.

All those will over power your cooling. I even overpowered my EPS pins and socket for one.


----------



## miklkit

In my case it is 1.5 vcore. Maybe 1.512v. But that is moot because I decided to try a different cpu cooler to see if it could lower motherboard temps. While I was loosening some nuts the wrench slipped and gouged the board, so it is now a $165 paperweight.

But the GD80 still runs!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> In my case it is 1.5 vcore. Maybe 1.512v. But that is moot because I decided to try a different cpu cooler to see if it could lower motherboard temps. While I was loosening some nuts the wrench slipped and gouged the board, so it is now a $165 paperweight.
> 
> But the GD80 still runs!


Ouch!. that is unfortunate man. Oh well, shiz happen! But sorry for the loss.


----------



## warpuck

My R1 finally died.
Running a Windforce 7870 that failed. I think the thing that killed the kitty was the single rail power supply.
When the 7870 faulted (VR fail on the video card) all of the power available went trough the motherboard to ground. I think. The result was the saberkitty became an expensive fuse.

I was using a 1000 watt single rail power supply. I have seen a bunch of posting that multirails don't get the job done. If each rail can shut down the power supply in a fault condition, that would be better, maybe? Now for the math 12volts X 25amps= 300 watts. 2 of them plug in to the R9s or the GTX 690 600 watts available (if you use a separate rails). If you to use two 8 pin plugs on the same rail and overclock the 690. Result fail.
If the power supply does not document what rail is what don't buy it

The XFX power supply is fine.
It runs a semi retired MSI 790FX-GD70 with the same 8350 and a GTX 690. The olde lady likes it. 3 years of OC on the 8350. I was good overclocker that ran stable at 4.6Ghz (air) for a while and has been degrading.

I chose a Asrock Extreme9 over a Crosshair-Z as a replacement and purchased a 9590 replacement for the aged 8350, (which runs fine when set up as a 8350E). I am currently running the Asrock and the 9590 on water with a Cougar GX1050 and 2 crossfired R9 285s and 4 sticks of Avexir 2400 ram.

I run the 9590 at stock speeds and the R9s too. If I was going to OC the R9s I would have went with 1300 watts. I have played around with 9590 and discovered that it can stand a higher multiplier speed 255 vs 233 for the 8350 and higher HT speeds too.
I left all the other settings on auto except for the LLC and the CPU multipliers. Which I turned off the LLC and set V core to 1.45.

Yep everything C1E, CnQ.....

The Asrock does not have the fine saberkittly BIOS adjustments, which I do miss. Should have spent more and got the Crosshair. The higher memory and HT speeds do make a noticable difference in bench marks when crossfiring R9 285s, but memory didn't do much with a single 7870. My firewalk score was in the <13000 range with 2 R9s and >10000 with one. Game play is smooth at 2650 x 1440 with Mass Effect 3 and Battlefield Hardline. I use a 24" TV to monitor CPU loads, temps and speeds with HWmonitor.
side note:
MIDI connections (M-audio Oxygen 88) are a pain in the ass with this. I have to buy a sound card. That is why I was looking at a Crosshair and the Extreme9. (So maybe it was not so bad, now that I know I need a sound car anyway.) They have better sound setups than saberkittys.
Have not found anything that will do MIDI KEYBOARD with RealTec motherboard sound. I can do it, just have to put the R9s in the top and bottom slots to make room for the sound card.

The sound would not be needed with something like these Roland KC880 and one of these Kurzweil SP5-8

I use an old Altec Lansing AS890 amp and speakers for sound (85 watts RMS or 270 watts peak) over 10 years old and still kicking out the decibels.

RIP Sabberkitty R1 and Giga Windy 7870.


----------



## Mega Man

sucks sorry

a good power supply may of caught it, may not,

but multi rail vs single very little are different it does not take much to kill a component on a board


----------



## warpuck

Turns out the sound cards were not the internal droids I was looking for. It was looking for Win 7 professional and Focusright Scarlett


----------



## Barakas

Hey guys,

Got some real problems with overheating. Ambient temps are around 23-26C daily. I cant seem to keep the temps down on anything. CPU runs at 52 degrees idle around 68 when playing games and the mobo temps seem to be way high. All bios settings are stock and i have the fans on full with the fan controller on the case. Do i need to pump in more fans or is there an issue with the mobo? It is very hot where i live in country Australia temps reaching 45 plus outside.

*
System Specs*

Coolermaster Storm Trooper case
Sabertooth 990fx R2.0
1055t 2.8ghz
Asus R9 290 OC edition
32GB Patriot 1600mhz DDR3
Antec 920 kuhler
Coolermaster 750w PSU

Its always ran this warm it doesnt seem unstable but gee it gets noisy when playing games.


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barakas*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Got some real problems with overheating. Ambient temps are around 23-26C daily. I cant seem to keep the temps down on anything. CPU runs at 52 degrees idle around 68 when playing games and the mobo temps seem to be way high. All bios settings are stock and i have the fans on full with the fan controller on the case. Do i need to pump in more fans or is there an issue with the mobo? It is very hot where i live in country Australia temps reaching 45 plus outside.
> 
> *
> System Specs*
> 
> Coolermaster Storm Trooper case
> Sabertooth 990fx R2.0
> 1055t 2.8ghz
> Asus R9 290 OC edition
> 32GB Patriot 1600mhz DDR3
> Antec 920 kuhler
> Coolermaster 750w PSU
> 
> Its always ran this warm it doesnt seem unstable but gee it gets noisy when playing games.


Lived in Freo in WA for a few years so know what you mean, usual things , fans on the VRMs, on the back of the board and make sure the airflow is cooling through the case,




It might be worth checking the airflow thru the case using smoke matches, I found a dead spot on my VRMs and had to remove my I/O shield and fit an extra exhaust fan.


----------



## Mega Man

caselabs bro... it will change your life !~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barakas*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Got some real problems with overheating. Ambient temps are around 23-26C daily. I cant seem to keep the temps down on anything. CPU runs at 52 degrees idle around 68 when playing games and the mobo temps seem to be way high. All bios settings are stock and i have the fans on full with the fan controller on the case. Do i need to pump in more fans or is there an issue with the mobo? It is very hot where i live in country Australia temps reaching 45 plus outside.
> 
> *
> System Specs*
> 
> Coolermaster Storm Trooper case
> Sabertooth 990fx R2.0
> 1055t 2.8ghz
> Asus R9 290 OC edition
> 32GB Patriot 1600mhz DDR3
> Antec 920 kuhler
> Coolermaster 750w PSU
> 
> Its always ran this warm it doesnt seem unstable but gee it gets noisy when playing games.


gonna need alot more info then this,

bios screens? if llc is on auto, i know it likes to default to extreme which will jack up temps


----------



## Barakas

Thanks guys, @Mike the owl i had a few smaller fans i put on the VRMs temps are looking a little better already (although machine has only been on for an hour or so)
I also placed the original 140mm that came with the case that was removed for the cooler to push some air through the front of the case to compliment the side fans that are pushing air over the HDs

@Mega Man

I have taken some snaps of the bios and it does look to be set to auto. I changed the voltage to manual and dropped it the other day as it was auto set to 1.45 so i was hoping dropping it back would help the heat a bit.


----------



## Mega Man

change llc to high or so ( may need ultra--- i never used a pII on this or any board )


----------



## Barakas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> change llc to high or so ( may need ultra--- i never used a pII on this or any board )


Ok, The temps went back to where they were last night again after a couple of hours. I ran MGS ground zeroes to get things warm and see if they would drop again but no dice.

I have changed to High then Low (llc) and the temps wont come down. I will take it into work to an airconed room and see if it makes a difference. It might just be my office is getting to hot. Its amazing i spend the extra coins on a better case and closed loop watercooling and it hasnt made a difference lol. I was planning on doing a little overclocking but i cant risk it as the CPU temp is way too hot with prime95. I think it gets to around 72 degrees under full load.

I have re-applied thermal paste numerous times, maybe my kuhler is crap, If the CPU is getting to hot would that cause the other parts of the board to run warm as well ?


----------



## Mega Man

1 how did you clean the thermal paste

2 did you plug in your pump ??

3 feel your tubes is your pump working ?

4 do you have fans on your rads, are they on


----------



## Barakas

Alcoholic electrical wipes to clean, Pump is definitely running looking at chill control its running at 3000rpm as well as when i re-seat it temps rise rapidly until it clears the air out of the loop and tubes are gently vibrating.

Fans on rad are push pull config exhausting out of case (where original exhaust was). I dont have the stock cooler but i recall even when i got the CPU years back it was around the same temp (45c) on idle


----------



## warpuck

When the ambient temp hits 30C or above I have two choices slow the CPU down Or take the sides off, put the headphones on direct the 18" floor fan at the case. Maybe I should mount a 20" inch box fan to side of the case That should out fan Mike the Owl.. It is not as loud as an 18 industrlal fan.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2809703&cp=4280956.4390792

I think any of these should be good for 3000 CFM. I think I will do a push/pull side to side

Oh I forgot choice Number 3, The AC unit works so I won't be doing that.
At least I got a back up plan in case the AC goes out.


----------



## warpuck

seriously

If this is a AIO ? The coolant inhibor has broke down and the water block/pump is clogged. probably the waterblock. . I got one sitting in the drawer that done that. Copper block and aluminum radiator will do that. The temps creep up slowly and then no amount of or brand of heat grease will make a difference. Soaking the waterblock in white vinegar for 10-15 minutes and flushing it with distilled water for 30 minutes or so might clean it out enough. Mixed metals in a loop is not a good thing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barakas*
> 
> Alcoholic electrical wipes to clean, Pump is definitely running looking at chill control its running at 3000rpm as well as when i re-seat it temps rise rapidly until it clears the air out of the loop and tubes are gently vibrating.
> 
> Fans on rad are push pull config exhausting out of case (where original exhaust was). I dont have the stock cooler but i recall even when i got the CPU years back it was around the same temp (45c) on idle


----------



## Barakas

Probably time for a new Cooler then i guess. It is closed loop so i cant pull it apart and check it. It is 2+ years old now so its prob time for an upgrade. Im not to savy with water cooling thats why i went the AIO as anything was quieter than the hovercraft fan that came with the CPU


----------



## Mega Man

i would reccomend the h220x/240x


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barakas*
> 
> Probably time for a new Cooler then i guess. It is closed loop so i cant pull it apart and check it. It is 2+ years old now so its prob time for an upgrade. Im not to savy with water cooling thats why i went the AIO as anything was quieter than the hovercraft fan that came with the CPU


I use an H80i but would recommend something a bit bigger for your location, the new H110i GT http://www.corsair.com/en-gb/hydro-series-h110i-gt-280mm-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler seems a good buy.

MegaMans reccomendation of the Swift H240-X is very good as well http://www.swiftech.com/H240-X.aspx. Horses for courses............

Looking at what would fit..http://www.overclock.net/t/1144409/h80-h80i-h90-h100-h100i-h110-case-compatibility-thread-page-1-for-full-listings/0_20 it may be a H100i would be an "out of the box" answer.

http://www.corsair.com/en-gb/hydro-series-h100i-gtx-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i would reccomend the h220x/240x


seconded.....best of the aio (not really but functions as such out of the box) with option to expand


----------



## hurricane28

Meh, i need another aio as well because i am tired of the loud Corsair H100i and i want some more performance.

I am looking at this cooler: http://www.enermax.com/home.php?fn=eng/product_a1_1_1&lv0=49&lv1=50&no=252

It has good reviews and its way quieter than any Corsair unit. The stock H100i fans quality is very poor and they most certainly will rattle over time and only have 4mm-H20 static pressure at 2700RPM while the Enermax fans have 7.4mm-H20 static pressure at 2500RPM at a much lower noise.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Meh, i need another aio as well because i am tired of the loud Corsair H100i and i want some more performance.
> 
> I am looking at this cooler: http://www.enermax.com/home.php?fn=eng/product_a1_1_1&lv0=49&lv1=50&no=252
> 
> It has good reviews and its way quieter than any Corsair unit. The stock H100i fans quality is very poor and they most certainly will rattle over time and only have 4mm-H20 static pressure at 2700RPM while the Enermax fans have 7.4mm-H20 static pressure at 2500RPM at a much lower noise.


psst see above two posts...







but seriously agent is happy with the lepa 240 he just reviewed and it's on the cheap...imo h2xxxx series are best deal because it's all quality components setup as an aio but with ability to expand upon later


----------



## Barakas

Guys thanks for all the input and help, I decided what the hell i dont have another cooler at the moment and live out in the middle of butfu** so the chances of getting one this week are slim. I cracked a pipe of the pump end. It looked like it had a small leak as it had a slight build up. When i got the hose of it was full of gunk. Alot of it....

Big chunks of crap came out, i ran it through distilled water for half hour and sealed it submerged.

Temps are now 33 degrees idle and plateaus at 46 on prime95. Thats CPU temp, the core temps dont go past 40 at full load. Im not sure if the phenoms have thermal readings on each core ? Im not sure if i should be monitoring the core temps or the CPU temp ?

Im going to order a new cooler though so i will look at the options everyone has suggested


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barakas*
> 
> Guys thanks for all the input and help, I decided what the hell i dont have another cooler at the moment and live out in the middle of butfu** so the chances of getting one this week are slim. I cracked a pipe of the pump end. It looked like it had a small leak as it had a slight build up. When i got the hose of it was full of gunk. Alot of it....
> 
> Big chunks of crap came out, i ran it through distilled water for half hour and sealed it submerged.
> 
> Temps are now 33 degrees idle and plateaus at 46 on prime95. Thats CPU temp, the core temps dont go past 40 at full load. Im not sure if the phenoms have thermal readings on each core ? Im not sure if i should be monitoring the core temps or the CPU temp ?
> 
> Im going to order a new cooler though so i will look at the options everyone has suggested


good to hear you figured out the problem...it doesn't take much to clog a block..but it sounds like it was really bad in your case...You could always keep that one as a backup now though


----------



## warpuck

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3TR2975632

I was considering one these. Should be about the same as a 240mm AIO. I have seen a bracket some where that allows it to be mounted outside the case on the rear

Went custom instead Swiftec bay res with pump, 140mm radiator on the exhaust port. Because I did not want my dremel tool to get rusty adding a 280mm added to the outside top of the case. The 280mm is pretty much just a coolant reservior now. I may decide to water the Two R9 285s also. AC units have a habit of wilting on you when the temp hits 37C. Got it half done. But I don't like the result so far . Been running the complete loop on the CPU only and the 140mm setting off to the side, doing push/pull completely external of the case is doing most of the cooling. CPU is usually running close to the same temp as the mother board for normal ops. 3-4C higher when running Mass Effect 3 0r Battle field Hardline. I may be sweating in my chair, that old CPU throttle thong WILL NOT be the reason I am not gaming.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> I use an H80i but would recommend something a bit bigger for your location, the new H110i GT http://www.corsair.com/en-gb/hydro-series-h110i-gt-280mm-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler seems a good buy.
> 
> MegaMans reccomendation of the Swift H240-X is very good as well http://www.swiftech.com/H240-X.aspx. Horses for courses............
> 
> Looking at what would fit..http://www.overclock.net/t/1144409/h80-h80i-h90-h100-h100i-h110-case-compatibility-thread-page-1-for-full-listings/0_20 it may be a H100i would be an "out of the box" answer.
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/en-gb/hydro-series-h100i-gtx-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler


I got a better look at the kit. The Akust kit does have a external mounting bracket included. Don't know how quiet the fans are but should get the job done.


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3TR2975632
> 
> I was considering one these. Should be about the same as a 240mm AIO. I have seen a bracket some where that allows it to be mounted outside the case on the rear
> 
> Went custom instead Swiftec bay res with pump, 140mm radiator on the exhaust port. Because I did not want my dremel tool to get rusty adding a 280mm added to the outside top of the case. The 280mm is pretty much just a coolant reservior now. I may decide to water the Two R9 285s also. AC units have a habit of wilting on you when the temp hits 37C. Got it half done. But I don't like the result so far . Been running the complete loop on the CPU only and the 140mm setting off to the side, doing push/pull completely external of the case is doing most of the cooling. CPU is usually running close to the same temp as the mother board for normal ops. 3-4C higher when running Mass Effect 3 0r Battle field Hardline. I may be sweating in my chair, that old CPU throttle thong WILL NOT be the reason I am not gaming.
> I got a better look at the kit. The Akust kit does have a external mounting bracket included. Don't know how quiet the fans are but should get the job done.


Custom loop for the price of AIO. Go for it...


----------



## mus1mus

For that price, grab it.

Even top end custom loop kits dont come in with good fans. Or universally good set of fans.

It's too thin IMO. But 30mm rads should do fine.


----------



## warpuck

Anybody know what the hole is for.? There is 1 on each corner.

Work in Progress


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody know what the hole is for.? There is 1 on each corner.


I think its for installing LED's, i could be wrong tho.


----------



## warpuck

.The holes are 0.15 " / 3.9MM. I was thinking of using some flat stock to hold the radiator assembly off 3" from the exhaust port case. The missing fan did not make much difference in mobo temp. Moving the radiator outside and away from the case did decrease CPU temp a lot. if 10-12C is a lot.


----------



## warpuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I think its for installing LED's, i could be wrong tho.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*


I was thinking for mounting on end however they don't look to be positioned on the same side


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody know what the hole is for.? There is 1 on each corner.
> 
> Work in Progress


You mean on the fan right? The slot is for wiring and the round hole is indeed for leds.

One frame many products ( how many actual manufactures do you think there is ? )


----------



## Barakas

Well after much reading of reviews i decided to get the Swiftech H220-x,

Seemed to be pretty future proof if i decided to add some more later. Just wondering though i have misplaced the original AM3 CPU retention plate for my board. Will the Kuhler plate suffice for the 220 ? or should i try and hunt another down ? Ive searched ebay but crikey they arent the cheapest parts in the world.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barakas*
> 
> Well after much reading of reviews i decided to get the Swiftech H220-x,
> 
> Seemed to be pretty future proof if i decided to add some more later. Just wondering though i have misplaced the original AM3 CPU retention plate for my board. Will the Kuhler plate suffice for the 220 ? or should i try and hunt another down ? Ive searched ebay but crikey they arent the cheapest parts in the world.


as long as the kuhler backplate fits the standard 4 points on the amd board it should work fine.....the apogee block with the amd mounting braces uses the stock 4 point spots on the mobo so... i dont see why it wouldnt work...

edit: if the kuhler is one of the ones that uses the two point system then no it wont work...the kuhler kits ive seen all have four point and should work fine... not sure if the mount would be as solid as a good backplate but as long as it stays tight and provides solid even pressure.. no worries :0


----------



## Barakas

Thanks mate, I was worried as well about how it will support the block. I may be able to suss one from an older am2 board i have at work. I can only test it when it gets here and see i guess. Thanks for the reply!!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barakas*
> 
> Thanks mate, I was worried as well about how it will support the block. I may be able to suss one from an older am2 board i have at work. I can only test it when it gets here and see i guess. Thanks for the reply!!


well supporting the block isn't really as important as nice even pressure to spread tim evenly and hold the sink tight for good thermal transfer...someone else here can probably come in if am2 backplate is the same...I think it is but I didn't own an am2


----------



## Kalistoval

So I'm installing windows 8.1 on 2 fresh new 250gb 850 evos, In raid0 with a brand new board. What drivers should I use?, should I used the windows 7 x64 drivers or the windows 8 x64 or the windows 8.1 x64? This is of course once I'm in windows.


----------



## warpuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> well supporting the block isn't really as important as nice even pressure to spread tim evenly and hold the sink tight for good thermal transfer...someone else here can probably come in if am2 backplate is the same...I think it is but I didn't own an am2


I am using the backplate from a performer 2.0 (or whatever that AIO was named) that died with a with Watercool performer 3.0 block. I set the screws/springs to 200NM. Balancing them was not easy even with a Micrometer. I was not able to find the correct pressure for a AMD CPU. The pressure is measured by how much the springs are compressed. Kinda like doing the the valve springs on a racing engine. So I looked up the known pressures for intel CPUs and went with the next higher settings because the only thing I could find was AMD uses more pressure than any intel CPU. The Watercool instruction was use whatever came with board Minus the plastic used for air cooling. The only thing that is on the socket side is the waterblock and screws. These are the same size screws used on the heaviest air coolers. That waterblock is pretty hefty chunk of Copper, Brass and stainless too. I used Artic MX-2 for the thermal paste. I must have done something right because the CPU and Mobo idle temps are close. Gaming CPU temps peak @ 50C with both air cooled GPUs running around 60-70C.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> I am using the backplate from a performer 2.0 (or whatever that AIO was named) that died with a with Watercool performer 3.0 block. I set the screws/springs to 200NM. Balancing them was not easy even with a Micrometer. I was not able to find the correct pressure for a AMD CPU. The pressure is measured by how much the springs are compressed. Kinda like doing the the valve springs on a racing engine. So I looked up the known pressures for intel CPUs and went with the next higher settings because the only thing I could find was AMD uses more pressure than any intel CPU. The Watercool instruction was use whatever came with board Minus the plastic used for air cooling. The only thing that is on the socket side is the waterblock and screws. These are the same size screws used on the heaviest air coolers. That waterblock is pretty hefty chunk of Copper, Brass and stainless too. I used Artic MX-2 for the thermal paste. I must have done something right because the CPU and Mobo idle temps are close. Gaming CPU temps peak @ 50C with both air cooled GPUs running around 60-70C.


the backplate doesnt determine the spring pressure... on the hxxx series the springs are on the screws on the block so the spring pressure is determined by that.. which the kit is for both intel and amd with a simple addition of amd crossbars on it... the backplate would hold pressure on the back of the board but his kuhler backplate works with amd as well so it should work fine... good to hear yours worked even though you were unsure and took a stab at the pressure


----------



## Barakas

Well just an update, the H220-X arrived today.

Just a heads up the Antec Kuhler 920 back plate mounting nuts do not work with the H220 AMD bracket screws. The thread on the H220 are a bees dick to large.

I have removed the threads from the Kuhler bracket and put the nuts that came with the Intel back plate of the H220 inside the Kuhler bracket (if this makes sense)

This allowed me to use the intel screws in the AMD bracket on the H220x. This is only temporary until i purchase an AM3/2 back plate. I cant get it past 46 degrees now. This was running Prime for an hour.

Can anyone confirm the Core temperatures on the Thuban chips are a thing ? I read these were just make shift numbers (10 degrees lower than CPU temp) I am using CPUID for monitoring.

PS
Apologies as i have gone off track from the initial question and this may be a question suited in another thread.


----------



## Xylonjay

I was wondering if anyone can help me as I cannot find an answer to my problem anywhere else. I recently upgraded from an Asrock 970 Extreme3 to a Sabertooth R.2 paired with an 8320e and my problem is that when I manually set my overclock via AI Tuner while in the OS and get it stable it it will not reboot successfully. I say stable since I am testing with P95 but as soon as I reboot my OS will not come back up and I have to go into the BIOS and set to default values just to get back into the OS again. Is this because my overclock wasn't truly stable or am I missing something? I left everything in the BIOS at default except for core boost which I turned off. My voltage was set to 1.43125, Multiplier to 22.5 and 200Mhz Bus for an overclock of 4.5.

Any help would be appreciated and if you need any other info or screenshots, I can do it when I get home tonight since I am at work right now.

Thanks!


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylonjay*
> 
> I was wondering if anyone can help me as I cannot find an answer to my problem anywhere else. I recently upgraded from an Asrock 970 Extreme3 to a Sabertooth R.2 paired with an 8320e and my problem is that when I manually set my overclock via AI Tuner while in the OS and get it stable it it will not reboot successfully. I say stable since I am testing with P95 but as soon as I reboot my OS will not come back up and I have to go into the BIOS and set to default values just to get back into the OS again. Is this because my overclock wasn't truly stable or am I missing something? I left everything in the BIOS at default except for core boost which I turned off. My voltage was set to 1.43125, Multiplier to 22.5 and 200Mhz Bus for an overclock of 4.5.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated and if you need any other info or screenshots, I can do it when I get home tonight since I am at work right now.
> 
> Thanks!


Your best bet is stop using AI tuner and go straight to the BIOS to OC. There are known problems with AI tuner from time to time. I removed the whole suite from my system and use HW info for monitoring. Bios for OC - The Sabertooth has a plethora of settings for OC in the Bios.


----------



## Xylonjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Your best bet is stop using AI tuner and go straight to the BIOS to OC. There are known problems with AI tuner from time to time. I removed the whole suite from my system and use HW info for monitoring. Bios for OC - The Sabertooth has a plethora of settings for OC in the Bios.


Thanks for the quick response. Yeah, I am not a big fan of overclocking within the OS to begin with, I do like the thermal radar feature and the ability to set my fan profiles. Can I keep the AI suite installed but ignore the AI Tuner feature so that I can continue to use the other features or is it best to just uninstall altogether?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylonjay*
> 
> Thanks for the quick response. Yeah, I am not a big fan of overclocking within the OS to begin with, I do like the thermal radar feature and the ability to set my fan profiles. Can I keep the AI suite installed but ignore the AI Tuner feature so that I can continue to use the other features or is it best to just uninstall altogether?


You can its your call.Watch for false warnings and possible restarts because of AI suite . I got rid of it because of the reasons listed . Thanks


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylonjay*
> 
> I was wondering if anyone can help me as I cannot find an answer to my problem anywhere else. I recently upgraded from an Asrock 970 Extreme3 to a Sabertooth R.2 paired with an 8320e and my problem is that when I manually set my overclock via AI Tuner while in the OS and get it stable it it will not reboot successfully. I say stable since I am testing with P95 but as soon as I reboot my OS will not come back up and I have to go into the BIOS and set to default values just to get back into the OS again. Is this because my overclock wasn't truly stable or am I missing something? I left everything in the BIOS at default except for core boost which I turned off. My voltage was set to 1.43125, Multiplier to 22.5 and 200Mhz Bus for an overclock of 4.5.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated and if you need any other info or screenshots, I can do it when I get home tonight since I am at work right now.
> 
> Thanks!


I'd say list down the OC settings you have on Windows and apply them to the BIOS. It can be quicker sometimes. But for your final OC, do them all inside the BIOS and scrap AI Suite.

It messes with stability testing apps. As well as OS.


----------



## Xylonjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I'd say list down the OC settings you have on Windows and apply them to the BIOS. It can be quicker sometimes. But for your final OC, do them all inside the BIOS and scrap AI Suite.
> 
> It messes with stability testing apps. As well as OS.


Thanks for the info. I ended up doing just that but couldn't keep temps under control without using the fan controls within AI Tuner. So I just reset everything back to stock and will try and fine tune it over the weekend ( I could remote in via Teamviewer on my tablet, but I like being there in case a bad overclock it causes it to lock-up). One other thing is that I am still not used to setting voltages via the offset method since my first and only OC experience was with an ASRock Extreme3 motherboard; it was much easier to adjust the voltage. There are so many different options in the ASUS BIOS that I need to get familiar with to get this right. I did use the ASUS guide that everyone links to and it got me where I am at now; now I just need to get a better understanding of how each option in the BIOS is used to get a max stable OC.

Thanks again and I appreciate the input!


----------



## Xylonjay

With a little help from the OCN community, I finally achieved an acceptable overclock .

http://valid.canardpc.com/80pnh9


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylonjay*
> 
> With a little help from the OCN community, I finally achieved an acceptable overclock .
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/80pnh9


if that's stable that's a nice voltage for 4.6....I'm so jealous of most if the e users here my e chip is a piggy


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylonjay*
> 
> With a little help from the OCN community, I finally achieved an acceptable overclock .
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/80pnh9


Nice OC


----------



## Xylonjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> if that's stable that's a nice voltage for 4.6....I'm so jealous of most if the e users here my e chip is a piggy


Thanks! My temps are pretty nice also, at load the socket gets to about 62℃ and the core 53℃. Once I start watercooling, I think 5Ghz is totally realistic. Yeah, I thought it would've needed more voltage myself. I had walked it down from 4.3125 after setting CPU LLC to Ultra High. I previously had not used LLC.

It passed 2 hours of Prime95 and then I games on it for 3 hours. Not a hiccup whatsoever. I'm really glad I upgraded my motherboard from the ASRock 970 Extreme3 I initially purchased.


----------



## Xylonjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Nice OC


Thanks jflisk, I took your advice and ditched the AI Suite after getting my volts and mutiplier figured out and then entering those values in the BIOS and also enabling CPU LLC to Ultra high. Any reccomendations for software fan controllers? Tried installing FanXpert but it said it was not compatible with my motherboard.


----------



## Jflisk

All I have is speedfan . I use a fan controller computer for mine



The big green board is the fan controller.


----------



## Xylonjay

Okay, cool. It looks like a run to Microcenter is in order then.









My girlfriend is really starting to resent me and this computers relationship. Lol


----------



## Jflisk

Oh happy JOY-JOY let the Asus RMA begin. The Joy of intermittent freezing. Lets see how well this goes.









Day one - 5/4/15 Requested advanced RMA . Entered all my information on web site received conformation.
Day four -5/8/15 Advanced RMA board is sitting at fedex waiting for me to pick it up
Day Five -5/9/15 RMA board installed and tested. All Parts work - I got a good one.
Time to get the old board back to them within 14 Days.


----------



## Mega Man

Might I ask how you know it is the mobo.

Freezing is a rather large spectrum from drivers to unstable oc to many different pieces of hardware


----------



## Jflisk

Mega - Set the board back to default - When system starts I get occasional orange screen with white lines.This happens after restart shortly after the BIOS. This is with any card I have had installed in it. So been going on since day one just got around to messing with it. Every so often not every day or every hour. System will just freeze no rhyme no reason. No particular application or game.Will freeze at idle(found that odd) Upped the power supply to 1500W was at 1350W. Pulling 1400W at wall. So power supply was probably a good idea to begin with.


----------



## Mega Man

I see gl


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Mega - Set the board back to default - When system starts I get occasional orange screen with white lines.This happens after restart shortly after the BIOS. This is with any card I have had installed in it. So been going on since day one just got around to messing with it. Every so often not every day or every hour. System will just freeze no rhyme no reason. No particular application or game.Will freeze at idle(found that odd) Upped the power supply to 1500W was at 1350W. Pulling 1400W at wall. So power supply was probably a good idea to begin with.


How hard is it to remove your GPUs to make isolated tests to pinpoint the issue?

I see less point of using single PSUs rated above 1000W TBH. Unless you are limited by your case, you're better off buying another PSU.

1500W is too expensive that 2 X 1000W will give you more headroom for about the same cost.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> How hard is it to remove your GPUs to make isolated tests to pinpoint the issue?
> 
> I see less point of using single PSUs rated above 1000W TBH. Unless you are limited by your case, you're better off buying another PSU.
> 
> 1500W is too expensive that 2 X 1000W will give you more headroom for about the same cost.


Does it after another set of GPUs. The R9 290x's are the second set of GPU's doing the same thing and the 1500W s been installed already. Did not have room for 2 x 1000 watt in my case nor would a120V outlet support more then 1800W (2400W max ) 80% of 2400W = 1800W max per breaker. constant on one breaker Point being the Asus has been doing this for a good while.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Does it after another set of GPUs. The R9 290x's are the second set of GPU's doing the same thing and the 1500W s been installed already. Did not have room for 2 x 1000 watt in my case nor would a120V outlet support more then 1800W (2400W max ) 80% of 2400W = 1800W max per breaker. constant on one breaker Point being the Asus has been doing this for a good while.


Hmm. Hate to tell you but I am hearing reports about Asus RMA being a PITA. Good luck though.

Tell you what, my head is always configured to forget American Electrical Limits / Standards.







Just got meself a couple X-1250s. No breaker fears nor limits here with 220 V, Current demand is lower than 120 V.


----------



## Mega Man

All RMA's suck


----------



## mus1mus

All hardware issues suck.


----------



## Banda

can I join the club?

http://valid.x86.fr/4sgyuf


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> All RMA's suck


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> All hardware issues suck.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Hmm. Hate to tell you but I am hearing reports about Asus RMA being a PITA. Good luck though.
> 
> Tell you what, my head is always configured to forget American Electrical Limits / Standards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just got meself a couple X-1250s. No breaker fears nor limits here with 220 V, Current demand is lower than 120 V.


You got lucky were stuck with 120V - 240 You can do up to 3400W max and 2800W safe and I have been avoiding the RMA just for the reasons above. I might get a board worse then what I started with that at least the one in here works for the most part. I took the advanced RMA route. What stinks is the 4-5 Hrs that it takes to drain the loop remove all the components around the board - Refill test loop. The one good thing is I planned on replacing the TIM soon anyway.


----------



## Xylonjay

For those looking for a way to cover the green LED light on the motherboard, I would like to offer my solution. I used a bicycle tire air stem cap. Fits perfectly and blocks out any trace of the LED. Just throwing it out there since I had read a few posts asking about how to turn it off completely, which you cannot do.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylonjay*
> 
> For those looking for a way to cover the green LED light on the motherboard, I would like to offer my solution. I used a bicycle tire air stem cap. Fits perfectly and blocks out any trace of the LED. Just throwing it out there since I had read a few posts asking about how to turn it off completely, which you cannot do.


I used a black dry erase marker because it doesn't cover it completely but it does make it barely noticeable...and it wipes off easily


----------



## Xylonjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I used a black dry erase marker because it doesn't cover it completely but it does make it barely noticeable...and it wipes off easily


Nice. I had thought about using a regular permanent marker but didn't like the idea of trying to scrape it off of needed. I just started looking around in my garage for anything that might work and took an air cap off of my "parts" bike. It fits perfectly with none of the green light visible and the other nice thing is that it is easy to remove if needed.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

this may be a dumb question.... but I just discovered that since changing my ram and cpu out... I can now run OC's with a much higher FSB than when I first got this board... was only hitting 280's tops... now running 300mhz ...wouldn't even boot there before... sooo, how do you know if its "stable" or not... I assume same basic line of testing as for cpu, but don't know for sure... also, would be interested in knowing how many others are running 300+ FSB ...


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> this may be a dumb question.... but I just discovered that since changing my ram and cpu out... I can now run OC's with a much higher FSB than when I first got this board... was only hitting 280's tops... now running 300mhz ...wouldn't even boot there before... sooo, how do you know if its "stable" or not... I assume same basic line of testing as for cpu, but don't know for sure... also, would be interested in knowing how many others are running 300+ FSB ...


CPU dependent.









Still, core clock rules.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> CPU dependent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still, core clock rules.


Well that explains why it just started working... thanks









edit... one thing i think I notice.... it seems to be getting past the "logo" screen and into windows a bit faster via fsb overclocking.... hard to tell... windows 8 is weird anyway... could be just a fluke... never noticed it before when running fsb oc's around 250... but I do know that normally I can at least see the logo, now it goes by before my monitors light up.


----------



## mus1mus

could be the monitor.


----------



## Mega Man

That sounds like fast boot tbh


----------



## hurricane28

That's not fast boot lol

I suspect you disabled the full screen logo on startup in bios or in Windows itself.

That way boot times can be reduced by couple of seconds, that's why i always disable that function.


----------



## mus1mus

The guy just changed FSB.

Monitor timeout also at play. So there no telling what's happening unless you time both settings.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

its wierd... I set it back to my "normal" 5ghz oc... and it takes the usual time.... then back to the 300mhz fsb and flies right by... also noticed time into windows seems peppier... did a few benchmarks and did get a better score for similar cpu clocks/ram speeds with higher the higher... only minor though. in R11.5 cinebench got 8.53 @ 4.967ghz cpu 2400mhz ram with 300fsb and 8.31 @ 5.020ghz cpu with 2400mhz ram @ 200mhz fsb very minor... but still there.... doesn't really explain the reduced time till post from turning on the power.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> this may be a dumb question.... but I just discovered that since changing my ram and cpu out... I can now run OC's with a much higher FSB than when I first got this board... was only hitting 280's tops... now running 300mhz ...wouldn't even boot there before... sooo, how do you know if its "stable" or not... I assume same basic line of testing as for cpu, but don't know for sure... also, would be interested in knowing how many others are running 300+ FSB ...


My old AMD-FX 4170 was at 300Mhz-310Mhz FSB and 4.7-4.8Ghz cpu but I overheated it and fried it but not from the oc but from the dust.


----------



## Kalistoval

Does anyone with the knowledge know if the bios flashback can be used to downgrade bios?. I want to downgrade my bios for me own reasons.


----------



## mus1mus

IIRC, it should allow you to flash an older BIOS.


----------



## Kalistoval

Despite fallowing the steps it will not take, this mobo is nearly 3 months old the original bios is the newest one and I'm trying to revert to 0803.
I did the fallowing

Format usb to fat32 default allocation
Download bios from website
Uncompressed directly to usb
reset bios to stock
Change the file name to ST990R20.CAP
Turn system off
Removed all usb's ect ect
Inserted usb to the corresponding usb slot highlighted in white
Pressed the bios flash back button also highlighted in white until it started to blink
waited
flashing stopped
Light stayed solid
Tried both versions on rebooting with and without the usb attached
Nothing same bios


----------



## mus1mus

Hmm. Never had that issue.

Someone will eventually chime in.

What's wrong with the BIOS though?


----------



## Kalistoval

Just wanna tinker with an older bios.


----------



## Jflisk

It should work . That's why its called bios flash back should be able to flash back forward and sideways if you want. Did you get the older bios file that you want to flash . Maybe accidently flashed the same bios.I know other people have flashed there bios back.

Give this a shot
http://smarttechtips.blogspot.com/2012/08/how-to-donwngrade-asus-bios.html


----------



## Mega Man

have to ask did you run the file from asus, normally ity is a exe file that has to be run then you rename the new file


----------



## zila

On my Formula-Z any bios above 1901 will not flash back to an older bios. I have spare bios chips just for that reason.









Edit: my Sabertooth did that to me once. I don't remember which bios I was flashing but it wouldn't flash back to save my life. So I just put a different bios chip in it with the bios I wanted to flash back to.

If anyone has a way to back flash a stubborn one like that I sure would appreciate hearing about it.


----------



## Kalistoval

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> have to ask did you run the file from asus, normally ity is a exe file that has to be run then you rename the new file


No all I did was extract it to the usb and rename it thats all.


----------



## Kalistoval

@Mega Man

So I tried the utility it renamed the bios, I also used hp format tool to format my usb. I tried both sending the bios to my usb with and with out a folder structure. I tried 3 different usb flash drives as-well. It came with the newest bios, I am trying to revert to 0803. Are new boards able to flash back that far?.

Disregard that

I wasn't formatting the usb correctly thanks Mega for pointing out the utility. It was simply a ebcak.


----------



## zila

Kalistoval, which bios file are you trying to flash back from? In other words what is installed right now?


----------



## Mega Man

Glad it was easy


----------



## amin12345

Quick question I am currently at 2600 north bridge @1.3v that that safe? Can I go higher? Processor 8350.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amin12345*
> 
> Quick question *I am currently at 2600 north bridge @3.0v* that that safe? Can I go higher? Processor 8350.


Whut? You sure about the 3.0Volts?


----------



## amin12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Whut? You sure about the 3.0Volts?


My bad its 1.3v


----------



## mus1mus

Dont talk about North Bridge. Specify if it's CPU-NB or Hyper Transport Link.

CPU-NB Defaults to 2200 and HT Link is at 2600.

CPU-NB past 2600 is a hit or miss thing. Very CPU dependent. HT Link is easy to OC but will be useless for a system with less than 3 GPUs and Hard to determine stability.

Which is which?


----------



## amin12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Dont talk about North Bridge. Specify if it's CPU-NB or Hyper Transport Link.
> 
> CPU-NB Defaults to 2200 and HT Link is at 2600.
> 
> CPU-NB past 2600 is a hit or miss thing. Very CPU dependent. HT Link is easy to OC but will be useless for a system with less than 3 GPUs and Hard to determine stability.
> 
> Which is which?


its CPU-NB @ 2600 the hp link is @ 2200 can i go higher because i see games become smoother with CPU-NB @ 2600. how much more volts will it require if i went to 2800?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amin12345*
> 
> its CPU-NB @ 2600 the hp link is @ 2200 can i go higher because i see games become smoother with CPU-NB @ 2600. how much more volts will it require if i went to 2800?


HT is stock 2600 so i would suggest to set it at that speed.

Yes another one that notice a difference between stock and 2600 CPu/NB









The voltage is different from each chip, mine runs fine on 1.32V but yours can be higher or lower.

The highest i could get was 2750mhz cpu/nb but due to heat i could not get it stable. I guess i needed 1.4 volts for only benching so it was not even near 24/7 stable i think.

you just need to test it, maybe your chip will not even run 2800mhz cpu/nb. And to be honest i don't know if there is such an big difference between 2600 vs 2800 and if its worth the extra heat.

To test for stability, i would run IBT AVX for 10 passes and if nothing strange is going on i would just try to play some games and do some internet browsing.

I noticed that if my cpu/nb become unstable Google chrome and YouTube begins to stutter and lag. Once i upper the voltage its gone.


----------



## amin12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> HT is stock 2600 so i would suggest to set it at that speed.
> 
> Yes another one that notice a difference between stock and 2600 CPu/NB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The voltage is different from each chip, mine runs fine on 1.32V but yours can be higher or lower.
> 
> The highest i could get was 2750mhz cpu/nb but due to heat i could not get it stable. I guess i needed 1.4 volts for only benching so it was not even near 24/7 stable i think.
> 
> you just need to test it, maybe your chip will not even run 2800mhz cpu/nb. And to be honest i don't know if there is such an big difference between 2600 vs 2800 and if its worth the extra heat.
> 
> To test for stability, i would run IBT AVX for 10 passes and if nothing strange is going on i would just try to play some games and do some internet browsing.
> 
> I noticed that if my cpu/nb become unstable Google chrome and YouTube begins to stutter and lag. Once i upper the voltage its gone.


The HT link speed is on auto, CPU-Z Reports its running at 2200. When I set the bios to default values, no overclocking then the HT-Link speed changes to 2600? shall I change this to 2600 from auto?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amin12345*
> 
> The HT link speed is on auto, CPU-Z Reports its running at 2200. When I set the bios to default values, no overclocking then the HT-Link speed changes to 2600? shall I change this to 2600 from auto?


Strange, yes you should set the ht to 2600. Lower ht can cause some problems as well as higher ht.

I am running 2600 for ht and cpu/nb and gives me the best stability/performance.


----------



## bote110

I have a question it's been a couple of months now that I build my new system and this only happens every now then and Will it just happen to me again today.
I turn on my system this morning and when I got off I put my system on sleep mode but when I return later I notice my power button lite was not blinking {it blinks when system is on sleep mode} but a solid lite {solid lite when the system is on}I try my key board and mouse with no responds I have to shut my power switch to my PSU and boot back up and I get a Windows Error would I like to start on safe mode or normal mode ? I have a green lite on the mother board but my key board and mouse will not respond?
Like I say it only happens ounce in a while but gets annoying that I can't fig this out.
Asus Sabbartooth mother board
Windows 7 Pro 64bit
16GB G-Skills Sniper
850w PSU Gold
MSI R9 280x
Phenom II x4 965 CPU


----------



## Cartel

Mine is 2600 cpu-nb with 1.150V


----------



## Barakas

Hey guys, I have got my pc stable at 3.3, 1055t locked multiplier. Its 240x14.0. Thats the highest i can get it. If i take it upto 3.8 while dropping my ram back so its at 1599 i just get a black screen. I am running voltage at 1.3v am i missing something ?


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barakas*
> 
> Hey guys, I have got my pc stable at 3.3, 1055t locked multiplier. Its 240x14.0. Thats the highest i can get it. If i take it upto 3.8 while dropping my ram back so its at 1599 i just get a black screen. I am running voltage at 1.3v am i missing something ?


up your voltage to arround 1.55V


----------



## Barakas

Same deal but thanks. Just get a black screen, keyboard wont light up either. 3.3 it is lol


----------



## tashcz

Guys, I've set everything up with the 8320 and the R9 270X, but I get a red CPU LED. I've checked the connections, everthing's good. What to do now?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Guys, I've set everything up with the 8320 and the R9 270X, but I get a red CPU LED. I've checked the connections, everthing's good. What to do now?


check to be sure your fan connector on the cpu header is all the way down...also reseating the cpu may help if that doesn't...also be sure your cpu power connectors are seated well...when you remove the cpu inspect it for bent pins...


----------



## tashcz

Got it, somehow the CPU didn't lay down in the bracket as it was supposed to. Reseating it helped, sorry I panicked but I wasn't happy not to see it working. Had to connect the pump to the CPU_OPT since I read the mobo wants a 4pin connection on the CPU_FAN, and got the fans on the CPU_FAN. Now it's all good, thanks a bunch


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Got it, somehow the CPU didn't lay down in the bracket as it was supposed to. Reseating it helped, sorry I panicked but I wasn't happy not to see it working. Had to connect the pump to the CPU_OPT since I read the mobo wants a 4pin connection on the CPU_FAN, and got the fans on the CPU_FAN. Now it's all good, thanks a bunch


not a problem sometimes the mechanism isn't all the way to the right and the chip doesn't drop all the way in..then the mechanism doesn't push it down into the socket but it will often still latch...at least you didn't damage pins...which is honestly pretty lucky...it should latch smoothly but not freely it should have resistance


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> not a problem sometimes the mechanism isn't all the way to the right and the chip doesn't drop all the way in..then the mechanism doesn't push it down into the socket but it will often still latch...at least you didn't damage pins...which is honestly pretty lucky...it should latch smoothly but not freely it should have resistance


Yeah, seems it was like that







I didn't use any force, got used to that from old Celeron 1.7GHz







Just got it on top and let the plug or whatever it's called to it's thing







Now I've got some memory problems (the MB sees 2 sticks of RAM but only uses ones memory) which I'm trying to check out, so far nothing worked and it seems one stick got faulty from migrating to the new board, but don't want to spam here with it since I opened up a new thread in the AMD owners section







So when I figure out what's going on and actually get 2 sticks of 4GBs working in dual channel I'm going to be satisfied. Right now I get all 7.9 scores in Win7 and I get a 5.9 for RAM operations, the OS boots a bunch slower than it did on the Gigabyte DS3P, and I think it's RAM's fault for that, but we'll see. I need to borrow some RAM to check everything out, don't have the nerves to get the whole system back to DS3P to check out if it's the mobo issue with the RAM or the RAM itself, so I'll swap with a friend to see what happens. So far I like the mobo, it has a bunch more options than the DS3P, but that makes it harder to migrate to. So much more things to tweak if you don't want it at auto, makes it easier to mess it up, but I think when I actually find what everything does it's gonna be a wonderful system. So far just by increasing the multiplier I was able to get a stable 4.5GHz in IBT and Prime, which I could get with the DS3P but it could never pass the stress tests. Max I got with stock case cooling and a water CPU cooler is 4.82, but currently it's gonna stay at 4.5GHz till I get used to the board (8320 is on it). Sorry for the long post, just wanted to share my experience with it and what and how I got out of it.


----------



## warpuck

tashcz,

You got a AM3+ CPU and 1333 ram and a GA-970A-DS3 ?

If you got a AM3 installed the HT link and the memory may run slower like 1800 HT and 1066 for the memory

I got 960T (thuban) running @ 3.6Ghz in a GA-78LMT-USB3 in the olde lady's puter. It likes 2200 HT & 1600 memory, that should be good for a 7.8 score, if I remember right.

I got 1045T installed one a olde Asus board (M4A78-E) that uses DDR2 1066 ram. The ram score is lower. I think it was 6.9. I gave that to Brother in law for photoshop work. It has 4 sticks of 2 gb ram in it so the ram speed does not run at 1066 but drops to 800. But since the 1045T is OCed by increasing the FSB, it runs the memory at 960. The USB3 and the 78E are good for 140 watt CPUs. The 960T was originally in the 78E box.
Phenom II CPUs will fit on a AM3+ board the HT generally is 1.8 to 2.0 range.

BTW I have never sent CPUs back for a few slightly bent pins. I always check to see if they are lined up on both directions. If they are slightly bent, a exacto knife can be used to GENTLY push then back. Do not allow the cutting edge to touch the pins. A little nick can cause a LC resistance to change on a pin operating in the Ghz range. If the moboard is horizontal the CPU should drop in the socket when raising the the locking lever up. When the lever is up, You should never push on the CPU with any more force than is needed for the minimum pressure required to print a letter with a keyboard to seat the CPU. If it does not seat evenly and easily check the socket holes to see if they are empty and recheck the CPU pin alignment. A flashlight and a magnifiing glass come in handy if you eyes are as old as mine. A solder sucker usually can remove what is in the socket. I don't know how many systems I have built and serviced since my 1st 286. It is probably in the 10s of thousands.
I would check the fingers connections on the memory closely cleaning them with a q tip and 90% isopropanol may help. A piece of lint in the mem socket can cause intermittant or resistance problems. If that dont work. Use memory off the CPU/ memory device support list to test it. If that don't work RMA the board. Using what manufacturer says is best for the board shortens the RMA process.

I was kinda hard to follow your post and still may missed on the main thought behind it. I replaced my 8350 because it does not do 4.7 Ghz any more, after the r1 it was in died. I figured getting another
8350 like that would be binned as a 9370... so I got a Asock Extreme9 and 9590 and the 2400 avexir memory off the support list. I paid more for the 8350 in Dec 2012 than the 9590 in 2015. I guess they get old and tired. It went into my old msi 790 fx-GD70 board. Does fine with 4300 turbo and 4000 base frequency on air.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Yeah, seems it was like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't use any force, got used to that from old Celeron 1.7GHz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just got it on top and let the plug or whatever it's called to it's thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I've got some memory problems (the MB sees 2 sticks of RAM but only uses ones memory) which I'm trying to check out, so far nothing worked and it seems one stick got faulty from migrating to the new board, but don't want to spam here with it since I opened up a new thread in the AMD owners section
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So when I figure out what's going on and actually get 2 sticks of 4GBs working in dual channel I'm going to be satisfied. Right now I get all 7.9 scores in Win7 and I get a 5.9 for RAM operations, the OS boots a bunch slower than it did on the Gigabyte DS3P, and I think it's RAM's fault for that, but we'll see. I need to borrow some RAM to check everything out, don't have the nerves to get the whole system back to DS3P to check out if it's the mobo issue with the RAM or the RAM itself, so I'll swap with a friend to see what happens. So far I like the mobo, it has a bunch more options than the DS3P, but that makes it harder to migrate to. So much more things to tweak if you don't want it at auto, makes it easier to mess it up, but I think when I actually find what everything does it's gonna be a wonderful system. So far just by increasing the multiplier I was able to get a stable 4.5GHz in IBT and Prime, which I could get with the DS3P but it could never pass the stress tests. Max I got with stock case cooling and a water CPU cooler is 4.82, but currently it's gonna stay at 4.5GHz till I get used to the board (8320 is on it). Sorry for the long post, just wanted to share my experience with it and what and how I got out of it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Got it, somehow the CPU didn't lay down in the bracket as it was supposed to. Reseating it helped, sorry I panicked but I wasn't happy not to see it working. Had to connect the pump to the CPU_OPT since I read the mobo wants a 4pin connection on the CPU_FAN, and got the fans on the CPU_FAN. Now it's all good, thanks a bunch


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> tashcz,
> 
> You got a AM3+ CPU and 1333 ram and a GA-970A-DS3 ?
> 
> If you got a AM3 installed the HT link and the memory may run slower like 1800 HT and 1066 for the memory
> 
> I got 960T (thuban) running @ 3.6Ghz in a GA-78LMT-USB3 in the olde lady's puter. It likes 2200 HT & 1600 memory, that should be good for a 7.8 score, if I remember right.
> 
> I got 1045T installed one a olde Asus board (M4A78-E) that uses DDR2 1066 ram. The ram score is lower. I think it was 6.9. I gave that to Brother in law for photoshop work. It has 4 sticks of 2 gb ram in it so the ram speed does not run at 1066 but drops to 800. But since the 1045T is OCed by increasing the FSB, it runs the memory at 960. The USB3 and the 78E are good for 140 watt CPUs. The 960T was originally in the 78E box.
> Phenom II CPUs will fit on a AM3+ board the HT generally is 1.8 to 2.0 range.
> 
> BTW I have never sent CPUs back for a few slightly bent pins. I always check to see if they are lined up on both directions. If they are slightly bent, a exacto knife can be used to GENTLY push then back. Do not allow the cutting edge to touch the pins. A little nick can cause a LC resistance to change on a pin operating in the Ghz range. If the moboard is horizontal the CPU should drop in the socket when raising the the locking lever up. When the lever is up, You should never push on the CPU with any more force than is needed for the minimum pressure required to print a letter with a keyboard to seat the CPU. If it does not seat evenly and easily check the socket holes to see if they are empty and recheck the CPU pin alignment. A flashlight and a magnifiing glass come in handy if you eyes are as old as mine. A solder sucker usually can remove what is in the socket. I don't know how many systems I have built and serviced since my 1st 286. It is probably in the 10s of thousands.
> I would check the fingers connections on the memory closely cleaning them with a q tip and 90% isopropanol may help. A piece of lint in the mem socket can cause intermittant or resistance problems. If that dont work. Use memory off the CPU/ memory device support list to test it. If that don't work RMA the board. Using what manufacturer says is best for the board shortens the RMA process.
> 
> I was kinda hard to follow your post and still may missed on the main thought behind it. I replaced my 8350 because it does not do 4.7 Ghz any more, after the r1 it was in died. I figured getting another
> 8350 like that would be binned as a 9370... so I got a Asock Extreme9 and 9590 and the 2400 avexir memory off the support list. I paid more for the 8350 in Dec 2012 than the 9590 in 2015. I guess they get old and tired. It went into my old msi 790 fx-GD70 board. Does fine with 4300 turbo and 4000 base frequency on air.


Hey man,

I used to have a DS3P, but switched over to Sabertooth because the board doesn't seem like it's able to handle the OCs on the 8320 well. The VRMs and the 4+1 power phase was just not enough. I had some SiliconPower RAM (4+4GB) on the DS3P which I migrated to Sabertooth, but the system always saw 4GB of memory, though it showed it had 2 slots filled everywhere. I got Kingston HyperX Fury at 1866MHz and it works flawlessly now, without any problems.

I just want to ask if the other timings of RAM are to leave at auto or I should tweak it (especially the ones except the first 4, I can't get much info on them), because the mobo didn't quite get my correct timings. My timings for 1866 are 10-11-10-30, and the mobo recognized the memory as 11-11-11-28; I changed them to 10-11-10-30, but I still don't get the 7.9 mark on the Win7 experience. I'm still reading a bit about the timings since I don't have a lot of knowledge on them and will try to tweak it, since I saw this memory works a lot better when OC'd.

Thing is, guys in the reviews (http://www.pcgameware.co.uk/reviews/memory-ram/hyperx-fury-8gb-1866mhz-memory-review/) get 25GB/s write and 27GB/s read with 55.8 latency, and I get 24GB/s read with 16GB/s write and 65ns latency. I think the difference in the write speed is a lot worse, it's like 40% less.


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Hey man,
> 
> I used to have a DS3P, but switched over to Sabertooth because the board doesn't seem like it's able to handle the OCs on the 8320 well. The VRMs and the 4+1 power phase was just not enough. I had some SiliconPower RAM (4+4GB) on the DS3P which I migrated to Sabertooth, but the system always saw 4GB of memory, though it showed it had 2 slots filled everywhere. I got Kingston HyperX Fury at 1866MHz and it works flawlessly now, without any problems.
> 
> I just want to ask if the other timings of RAM are to leave at auto or I should tweak it (especially the ones except the first 4, I can't get much info on them), because the mobo didn't quite get my correct timings. My timings for 1866 are 10-11-10-30, and the mobo recognized the memory as 11-11-11-28; I changed them to 10-11-10-30, but I still don't get the 7.9 mark on the Win7 experience. I'm still reading a bit about the timings since I don't have a lot of knowledge on them and will try to tweak it, since I saw this memory works a lot better when OC'd.
> 
> Thing is, guys in the reviews (http://www.pcgameware.co.uk/reviews/memory-ram/hyperx-fury-8gb-1866mhz-memory-review/) get 25GB/s write and 27GB/s read with 55.8 latency, and I get 24GB/s read with 16GB/s write and 65ns latency. I think the difference in the write speed is a lot worse, it's like 40% less.


I bought my hyper X second hand from Gertruude here on overclock net, , with a little help from the guys at the FX thread I managed a decent overclock, but to remain stable I had to drop my CPU overclock from 5.1 to 5.0' I don't know why, maybe voltage or ram temps.



So I know that if you persevere you can get there.

Also the review was using an Intel I5 Haswell , I,m sure a AMD Saberkitty will be different.


----------



## tashcz

That's some really nice results you did get







I'm still tweaking everything but want to understand all that I do, so far I've put the NB freq a bit up, will see how everything behaves and hope to get the RAM to work even close to those results you get. The NB overclocked for 200MHz improved the results drasticly.



This is the image without OCing the memory, just the NB is put to 2400MHz.

I'm just afraid if the other settings in the BIOS are okay. I can see there is like 20 things to change on memory timing, but all info I can get is for 7-8 of them, so I left everything on auto except the most usual things, the first 4 timings. I'll have to tweak it a bit so I'll come back with the results.

Will it be safe to boost the NB to 2600MHz? Still didn't try that, only went to 2.4GHz.

By the way, everything is stock except the NB. Still didn't touch the bus or the multiplier of anything. It's just the turbo that's enabled so it shows 4GHz.


----------



## gordesky1

Guys have anyone had this problem with their Sabertooth R2.0, I been having dual channel ram issues pass 2 weeks, Sometimes it will be in dual channel and most of the time it wont cause cpuz shows it in single... And today it happen again and i cannot get it back in dual channel no matter what i do now.. I tried all the dual channel slots also.

I herd about ram issues with these boards but i never had this issue except this pass 2 weeks.. I tried blowing out the slots also.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gordesky1*
> 
> Guys have anyone had this problem with their Sabertooth R2.0, I been having dual channel ram issues pass 2 weeks, Sometimes it will be in dual channel and most of the time it wont cause cpuz shows it in single... And today it happen again and i cannot get it back in dual channel no matter what i do now.. I tried all the dual channel slots also.
> 
> I herd about ram issues with these boards but i never had this issue except this pass 2 weeks.. I tried blowing out the slots also.


Default timings and Speeds?

Return to Default settings and try if it goes back to dual Channel.

On the other hand,

I tried to check on my Burnt EPS Socket. Tore down the housing to check if the pins melted or something.


Spoiler: Don't Puke!











Looks like I can still revive the mighty SaberCat!

Pins or Solder anyone?


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Default timings and Speeds?
> 
> Return to Default settings and try if it goes back to dual Channel.
> 
> On the other hand,
> 
> I tried to check on my Burnt EPS Socket. Tore down the housing to check if the pins melted or something.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Don't Puke!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like I can still revive the mighty SaberCat!
> 
> Pins or Solder anyone?


you got your work cut out for you... I'd try to solder a new connector on it if I had one and could


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Default timings and Speeds?
> 
> Return to Default settings and try if it goes back to dual Channel.
> 
> On the other hand,
> 
> I tried to check on my Burnt EPS Socket. Tore down the housing to check if the pins melted or something.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Don't Puke!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like I can still revive the mighty SaberCat!
> 
> Pins or Solder anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> you got your work cut out for you... I'd try to solder a new connector on it if I had one and could
Click to expand...

I actually considered replacing the whole EPS 12V assembly. But with my limited tools, that'd be hard. Soldering directly to the Mobo is a PITA. Plus, you can't tell where those pins connect on a Multi-layer PCB. So removing the carbonized pins may be tricky.

I can still connect an EPS pins from the PSU. I haven't tried yet though. But to keep things safe, I might just buy an EPS Extension, solder the mobo end directly to the pins, heat shrink. Can be compatible with any PSU.

or

Grab one of the EPS Cable from my X1250, same on the mobo end, Direct Solder. But the other end will directly connect to the PSU.
















Actually, this ^ is a better idea! No need to buy anything as I actually have a couple of those Seasonics! Should have more 2 EPS 12Vs. Haven't occured to me till now!!


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Please mus1mus, keep us posted and some pics of the process will be nice d--(^_^)z


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> Please mus1mus, keep us posted and some pics of the process will be nice d--(^_^)z


You have melted yours too?










I will, Yes. I'll turn it into a Bencher. Will be bringing the thing into the Office as my daily runner. If that still lives...


----------



## gordesky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Default timings and Speeds?
> 
> Return to Default settings and try if it goes back to dual Channel.


Yep i tried default settings and nothing.. i even remounted the board couple times and still cant get it to work.. I notice if i try each slot with a stick 3 and 4 would just beep.. but 1 and 2 works.

But now im having the same problem now as i did weeks ago when i said about it in the 8350 club. When i have both sticks in 1 and 3 it would ony detect 8gb of ram but in bios and cpuz it shows the sticks in the slots???

1 and 3 was working when i first type this problem about dual channel detected 16gb of ram but just was stuck in single channel, and after i took the ram sticks back out and put them in im ony getting 8gb detected in the dual channel slots...

Ony way i can get 16gb working is if i installed it in slot 1 and 2...

Is this a board problem?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gordesky1*
> 
> Yep i tried default settings and nothing.. i even remounted the board couple times and still cant get it to work.. I notice if i try each slot with a stick 3 and 4 would just beep.. but 1 and 2 works.
> 
> But now im having the same problem now as i did weeks ago when i said about it in the 8350 club. When i have both sticks in 1 and 3 it would ony detect 8gb of ram but in bios and cpuz it shows the sticks in the slots???
> 
> 1 and 3 was working when i first type this problem about dual channel detected 16gb of ram but just was stuck in single channel, and after i took the ram sticks back out and put them in im ony getting 8gb detected in the dual channel slots...
> 
> Ony way i can get 16gb working is if i installed it in slot 1 and 2...
> 
> Is this a board problem?


Looks like a slot issue indeed.

To be sure though, you might need another set of RAMs.

1. Do a hard reset. (removing the CMOS Battery)
2. Do a thorough inspection of the slots. (Clean it from any debris)
3. If you have spare sticks, try them.

If these don't do the trick, maybe something went wrong with the slots.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> Please mus1mus, keep us posted and some pics of the process will be nice d--(^_^)z
> 
> 
> 
> You have melted yours too?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will, Yes. I'll turn it into a Bencher. Will be bringing the thing into the Office as my daily runner. If that still lives...
Click to expand...

Last month I was "playing" with the same connector. I just change my case and forgot to get myself a EPS12v extension. So... I had to "modify" the existing short modular psu cable while I wait to Amazon to deliver the 2 cables. Hopefully my Huakko soldering station came to the rescue. Some electrical tape and a "longer" cable was ready for action.

Before the cable management...


----------



## gordesky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Looks like a slot issue indeed.
> 
> To be sure though, you might need another set of RAMs.
> 
> 1. Do a hard reset. (removing the CMOS Battery)
> 2. Do a thorough inspection of the slots. (Clean it from any debris)
> 3. If you have spare sticks, try them.
> 
> If these don't do the trick, maybe something went wrong with the slots.


I check the slots i don't see anything wrong with them and i blew air in them with a datavac hopeing dust was in them but nope I even took the board out of the case and check the back of it don't see anything wrong there..

Will try taking the battery out in a few mins.

And i don't have any other sticks of dd3... Tho im pretty sure the sticks are fine cause they work fine when in slot 1 and 2.

I just find it weird why its ony detecting 8gb when in slot 1 and 3 but shows both sticks in each slot..

edit just tried removing the battery and still the same problem.. Look like the 2 ram slots gave up for no reason

Does asus do advance rma on boards? Cause pretty much i need this computer up and running everyday..


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> Please mus1mus, keep us posted and some pics of the process will be nice d--(^_^)z
> 
> 
> 
> You have melted yours too?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will, Yes. I'll turn it into a Bencher. Will be bringing the thing into the Office as my daily runner. If that still lives...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Last month I was "playing" with the same connector. I just change my case and forgot to get myself a EPS12v extension. So... I had to "modify" the existing short modular psu cable while I wait to Amazon to deliver the 2 cables. Hopefully my Huakko soldering station came to the rescue. Some electrical tape and a "longer" cable was ready for action.
> 
> Before the cable management...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Is that using your ToughPower? That's a semi modular right? Weird that the EPS pin came in with cables short of your case.

I havent checked the length of my X1250 cables. But since they fully modular, I won't have issues even when I solder opne end to the Mobo.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gordesky1*
> 
> I check the slots i don't see anything wrong with them and i blew air in them with a datavac hopeing dust was in them but nope I even took the board out of the case and check the back of it don't see anything wrong there..
> 
> Will try taking the battery out in a few mins.
> 
> And i don't have any other sticks of dd3... Tho im pretty sure the sticks are fine cause they work fine when in slot 1 and 2.
> 
> I just find it weird why its ony detecting 8gb when in slot 1 and 3 but shows both sticks in each slot..
> 
> edit just tried removing the battery and still the same problem.. Look like the 2 ram slots gave up for no reason
> 
> Does asus do advance rma on boards? Cause pretty much i need this computer up and running everyday..


Can you post in SS of your BIOS showing your sticks connected on 1 and 2?

If the computer can't boot into the BIOS when using slots 1&3 or 2&4, that's a big issue that can be related to the motherboard.


----------



## gordesky1

Yep heres the screenshots, And it doesn't have no problem booting in those slots when both sticks are in. They just wont detect the full 8gb in bios or windows. Now if i try 1 stick in 3 and 4 it just beeps like no ram is installed also wont boot with 2 sticks in 3 and 4 just beeps.. but works in 1 and 2.

Also at default settings this board always detected the ram as 1333. I usely run it at stock 1866 or oc 2000 1.7v.






Also here's cpuz screenshot... not sure how long i was running with out 16gb cause cpuz does indeed show 16gb, But as you can see in task manager 8gb is ony there... And system shows 16gb but 8gb useable.. In 1 and 2 slots it says the full 16gb usable.


----------



## mus1mus

Hmm.. SS on Windows Please.

Sorry, shouldve asked before.


----------



## gordesky1

Just edit the windows screenshot and some info in the post before yours think when i was editing you posted lol


----------



## mus1mus

It's not your mobo! Rejoice.









Try these.

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/978610

http://www.eightforums.com/drivers-hardware/57316-16-gb-ram-installed-but-only-8-gb-usable.html


----------



## gordesky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> It's not your mobo! Rejoice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try these.
> 
> https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/978610
> 
> http://www.eightforums.com/drivers-hardware/57316-16-gb-ram-installed-but-only-8-gb-usable.html


Hmm ony thing is if i have the ram in 1-2 the full 16gb is usable i just don't have dual channel because its in 1-2, And i would think if it was windows issue bios should still show 16gb total when in slot 1 and 3 right?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gordesky1*
> 
> Hmm ony thing is if i have the ram in 1-2 the full 16gb is usable i just don't have dual channel because its in 1-2, And i would think if it was windows issue bios should still show 16gb total when in slot 1 and 3 right?


It looks like Windows related as that issue occurs on othet users as well. And note: AMD FX users


----------



## gordesky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> It looks like Windows related as that issue occurs on othet users as well. And note: AMD FX users


Hmm i tried what was done in the 2nd link you linked. which is the boot advance options i set the max memory to 16gb and restarted. than i checked and it still says the same and the boot advance optiions shows 0.

I have always seen 16gb total in bios except these pass weeks when this problem happens. This is like the 2nd time this happen.


----------



## tashcz

Friend, I had almost the same problem as you did when I switched to Sabertooth. Though my 2 sticks wouldn't work if I put them in any slots. I also had them all showing up everywhere, but only showing the total memory as just one of them. It seemed that the board wasn't compatible with the modules. BIOS also showed 2 sticks inserted but only total memory as one sticks memory.

Some things to try... memOK! button, updating BIOS, running the memory at a lower frequency than it's rated at, don't use high voltages, just 1.5V, try to loose up on timings a bit. If nothing helps, try to get some RAM to check out if it works. My Kingston HyperX Fury CL10 1866MHz works normal with it, but the SiliconPower sticks didn't. Seems the board is really picky on RAM.



Here's a speccy pic, you can see that it's the same problem as yours. 2 slots filled, detected both, 2x4GB, but total memory is only 4GB. And also it shows it's single channel. So it looks like the same problem as yours.


----------



## gordesky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Friend, I had almost the same problem as you did when I switched to Sabertooth. Though my 2 sticks wouldn't work if I put them in any slots. I also had them all showing up everywhere, but only showing the total memory as just one of them. It seemed that the board wasn't compatible with the modules. BIOS also showed 2 sticks inserted but only total memory as one sticks memory.
> 
> Some things to try... memOK! button, updating BIOS, running the memory at a lower frequency than it's rated at, don't use high voltages, just 1.5V, try to loose up on timings a bit. If nothing helps, try to get some RAM to check out if it works. My Kingston HyperX Fury CL10 1866MHz works normal with it, but the SiliconPower sticks didn't. Seems the board is really picky on RAM.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a speccy pic, you can see that it's the same problem as yours. 2 slots filled, detected both, 2x4GB, but total memory is only 4GB. And also it shows it's single channel. So it looks like the same problem as yours.


Any reason why this just started to happen? I had this board and ram sense December when i got them and never had the problem till these times in the pass 2 weeks...

I tried the mem ok button about 10 times and still didn't work..

Like i said they worked perfect in 1-2. Before this problem i always had them in 1-3 sense i got everything.

But yea your problem is pretty much like mine. But i just don't get how the board decided to not agree with them after almost 6 months with no problems.

I don't want to buy ram and it turns out its a board problem. To me it seems like it is because i never had these problems before.

Will try the memory at a lower clock than stock and mess with the timings more.


----------



## tashcz

I'm really unsure :/

Thing is, when I got everything set up, I think (90% sure) that I didn't have 8GB (3.92 usable) in My Computer properties, it was 8GB without that message. I think I only increased the multiplier for the CPU out of curiosity how much I can get without any fine-tuning and 1.5V for the CPU. All of a sudden, I noticed my windows isn't booting as fast as it did on the old board, and somehow I noticed that it doesn't have 8GB, only 4GB available.

I won't be able to tell you if anything will help except changing the memory, I know for sure I tried everything I read for more than 2 days and that includes all threads I could find on Sabertooth's problems with seeing half of RAM, but everywhere you can see that you have 2 sticks. Some things helped to someone, like lowering frequencies, changing timings, memOK! and removing the battery/clearing CMOS than starting the PC using memOK... I wasn't that lucky, so I got other RAM and it worked with no problems.

Have you tried using the sticks individualy? With only one stick in your PC? Try them in all slots, each one of two sticks. If each works in all slots, it must be a compability issue for some reason. Also, have you checked for the latest BIOS? It's not new, quite old, but maybe you don't have it. I think it adds some more memory compability.


----------



## mus1mus

The only reason I get this error is when I overclock the memory. 1866 to 2000 or 2133 with pretty tight timings of 8-8-9-24 on 2000 and 9-9-9-27 on 2133. Adding a bit of Voltage fixes this issue on mine. Say 1.5 stock, I put it to 1.65 for OC'ing.

It's a different situation but worth a try. I also add a few bumps on Memory Voltage even at stock. 1.5 = 1.55; 1.65 = 1.685 etc.


----------



## gordesky1

Yep i tried 1 stick in each slot and all slots works except 3 and 4 with a stick. with both sticks in 1-2 non dual channel mode i get the full 16gb just don't have dual channel because its not support in 1-2.

heres windows screenshots.



As you can see detects the full 16gb in 1-2.

Last time when this was happening pretty much after i remounted my water block a few times and reset the memory's i finally got them working in 1 and 3 and dual channel, And here i am again with the same problem.. And i took the board out couple times and reseat the memory couple times with no success this time.. Dont want to remount the water block again sense i just put gelid extreme a day ago on it and don't want to waste it cause it costs alot


----------



## tashcz

So you're telling me slots 3 and 4 don't work at all? You can't get anything on the screen if you put the memory only in them? Do you hear any beeps?


----------



## gordesky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> So you're telling me slots 3 and 4 don't work at all? You can't get anything on the screen if you put the memory only in them? Do you hear any beeps?


Yep if i put 1 stick in either 3 or 4 i just keep getting beep beep and it keeps on beeping. I even tried both sticks in 3 and 4 and i also get the same beeps. But if i put a stick in 1 or 2 than put another stick in 3 or 4 it starts up but i ony have 8gb usable problem even tho it shows the ram is in the slot..

Pretty much this is really confusing me lol...


----------



## gordesky1

welp found the problem... i was always saying in the 8350 club maybe the board was getting warped which is causing problems? I was right... So i took off the xspc rasa block which i didn't want too because i just put on new gelid thermal paste... But i went ahead anyways better than getting a advance rma and found out it wasin't the problem lol

So as i was saying i took off the block and was going to put on the stock heatsink, But i figured i still had my old h100 why not try that on instead. so i used cheap paste and pop on the h100 and put it back in the case but let the h100 hang over the side and i put the ram in 1 and 3 slots, And i turn it it on and bang 16gb dual channel...



So now how tight should the xspc block be? cause it was causing something and i also see little warp on top when i took the board out when the block was still on so it was warping the board and causeing problems with the ram... and if i don't get enough tightness down temps are crazy high..

Kinda wish the h100 was good at 4.9-5ghz cause i would use that right now cause the mounting system connects right to the amd mounting and causes no stress on the board at all... always thought it was bad but at the moment i like it lol..

This ram issue also happen with the raijintek triton the first time too...

But im really glad the board is ok and i didn't have to go threw with the rma..

Edit got the xspc block back on. And instead of using the amd screw and bolts, I used the intel ones with the amd backplate like i used to when i first got it back in 2010.

And there's no warping and detected 16gb and dual channel now again


----------



## mus1mus

So nice that you were able to solve that mess.

We live, we learn.

Opps! Did I say I myself went through a tough weekend?

Nope? Well, my CPU waterblock leaked like GOT Premiers. T'was a very close call that I was able to sense a tragedy before it happen. Else, the rig that I am typing on right now would have been history.


----------



## gordesky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> So nice that you were able to solve that mess.
> 
> We live, we learn.
> 
> Opps! Did I say I myself went through a tough weekend?
> 
> Nope? Well, my CPU waterblock leaked like GOT Premiers. T'was a very close call that I was able to sense a tragedy before it happen. Else, the rig that I am typing on right now would have been history.


Yep







so far everything is good now! Now i will worry every time i remount the block... Tho if i keep using the intel screws with the amd back plate i don't think it would happen again. well i hope not.. Not sure how reliable it will be tho cause the screws was trying to pop out of the threads at first when i was screwing it in.. The amd screw set was much more solid but was too solid when tighten down

I had this rasa kit on my old system which still runs gigabyte ma790x-ud4p and i never had issues with it even tho it was getting really warped lol

And ouch i glad you you caught it in time! That would've really been a disaster ... Why did it leak?


----------



## mus1mus

I'm always cautious when installing a waterblock first time. Had to check a lot of things. Pins at the backside, warped board etc.

And I love EK's Supreme HF Back Plate for that. Very Stout.




The CPU Block being Plexi and Old has hair line cracks that wets itself with pressure. Not so much but in time, it accumulates. I am lucky the coolant kinda like hardens when dried.

It's been a week or so since I last touched the system to change the TIM. Tweaking the RAM, etc. The GPU under has no traces of water or whatever but at the bottom of the CPU Block's Plexi top was the accumulated coolant.

Call it intuition or whatever but I dont know what occurred to me to take a peek of the Block. Maybe that block.

Here is the Culprit. Weighing on getting a new block now.


----------



## gordesky1

Wow... really glad nothing got damage









Really need to keep a eye on this rasa cause its about 5years old now if it leaks in this core x9 the board and the cpu and ram is probably dead because everything lays flat.. And might even run down to the lightning...

Not worried to much about the 750 res because that's in front which is a good bit away from everything. Now this is something to think about with the raijintek trition when i used it again cause its made out of Acrylic... Was thinking of puting 2 of them together 2x 240s and 2 pumps.

Pretty much why my cousin will not get anything with water in it for his cooling he always uses heatsinks currently has a d14.. But than again whats the fun in that lol except when its leaks that's no fun. Ever sense i first got the h50 i stayed water ever sense


----------



## mus1mus

My kitty says, meooowww back again, meoooowww lives!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I'm always cautious when installing a waterblock first time. Had to check a lot of things. Pins at the backside, warped board etc.
> 
> And I love EK's Supreme HF Back Plate for that. Very Stout.
> 
> The CPU Block being Plexi and Old has hair line cracks that wets itself with pressure. Not so much but in time, it accumulates. I am lucky the coolant kinda like hardens when dried.
> 
> It's been a week or so since I last touched the system to change the TIM. Tweaking the RAM, etc. The GPU under has no traces of water or whatever but at the bottom of the CPU Block's Plexi top was the accumulated coolant.
> 
> Call it intuition or whatever but I dont know what occurred to me to take a peek of the Block. Maybe that block.
> 
> Here is the Culprit. Weighing on getting a new block now.


that is a nice backplate...but that's the advantage to not having a "pretty block" less chance of cracks but at least it was easy to see


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> My kitty says, meooowww back again, meoooowww lives!


That job deserve a very cold beer.!!









Well done really!


----------



## Archea47

I'd love to hear the full story and how you fixed!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I'd love to hear the full story and how you fixed!


I'm gonna go out on a limb here and day the story starts with...."well I was benching late one night and I smelled that familiar smell...burnt plastic


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that is a nice backplate...but that's the advantage to not having a "pretty block" less chance of cracks but at least it was easy to see


Yeah man. Plexi is prone to cracks esp on mishandling. But you cant deny the aesthethics of these EK blocks.

Performance-wise, looks, price, they are simply winners when you weigh things up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> That job deserve a very cold beer.!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well done really!


Thanks buddy. Couldve been better. If I couldve been more adventurous and remove the old socket completely. But feared killing the board with a tacky soldering job.

IMO, this is the best way to fix it. No loose connections and stuff.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I'd love to hear the full story and how you fixed!


Too much Voltage on to the chip + loose pins. 1.65 VCore.

Cables were sleeved so they might have lost their tight grip.

Melted the EPS Connector from the PSU.

To fix it, I took an EPS cable from my X-1250. Knowing modular PSUs come with 2 8-pin EPS. Pulled one end from the Plastuc enclosure. Solder them one by one to the MOBO EPS 12.

The Burnt EPS 12 on the MOBO was cleaned by slowly snipping the molten semi-ceramic plastic. Too careful not to bend them pins. Scratched off the carbonated plastic and there.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I'm gonna go out on a limb here and day the story starts with...."well I was benching late one night and I smelled that familiar smell...burnt plastic


Naah.









My OC got wonky that I tried to take off the mobo for some cleaning. Puzzled why the EPS is hard to pull out. Turned out they melted them selves off the kitty.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I'm gonna go out on a limb here and day the story starts with...."well I was benching late one night and I smelled that familiar smell...burnt plastic


I figured it started with ... "I can try 2.9vcore now"


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I'm gonna go out on a limb here and day the story starts with...."well I was benching late one night and I smelled that familiar smell...burnt plastic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I figured it started with ... "I can try 2.9vcore now"
Click to expand...

Aheem. You hittin on me tauro?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Too much Voltage on to the chip + loose pins. 1.65 VCore.
> 
> Cables were sleeved so they might have lost their tight grip.
> 
> Melted the EPS Connector from the PSU.
> 
> To fix it, I took an EPS cable from my X-1250. Knowing modular PSUs come with 2 8-pin EPS. Pulled one end from the Plastuc enclosure. Solder them one by one to the MOBO EPS 12.
> 
> The Burnt EPS 12 on the MOBO was cleaned by slowly snipping the molten semi-ceramic plastic. Too careful not to bend them pins. Scratched off the carbonated plastic and there.
> Naah.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My OC got wonky that I tried to take off the mobo for some cleaning. Puzzled why the EPS is hard to pull out. Turned out they melted them selves off the kitty.


That's wildly scary. Most of this rig's time has been spent around 1.6 (tough with the video cards in the loop now) with plenty of time at 1.65 ... I haven't seen anything like that yet but I'll have my eyes on it.

Bravo on saving the Kitty


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> That's wildly scary. Most of this rig's time has been spent around 1.6 (tough with the video cards in the loop now) with plenty of time at 1.65 ... I haven't seen anything like that yet but I'll have my eyes on it.
> 
> Bravo on saving the Kitty


Always keep an eye on the connectors. They should always be tight fitting.

When youre pumping 1.6+ Volts onto the cores at 5+ GHz, Current draw for these chips skyrocket. Rather, Power Draw (in case someone doesn't like that term)







Any loose end will be your weak link.


----------



## Jflisk

We talking FX9590 CPU and EPS 8 pin connector on the board being scorched. If so i am in the Club also.I caught mine before it could do permanent damage. As mine was scorched in the 8 pin extender not at the board.


----------



## mus1mus

Lucky you. But in essence, extensions are just plain BAD.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Lucky you. But in essence, extensions are just plain BAD.


I just read what you did you get the modders medal on that one









My new power supply does not need the adapter so I am good to go.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I just read what you did you get the modders medal on that one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My new power supply does not need the adapter so I am good to go.


That's nothing special. The fix that I did.

I kinda thought, either I wait or look for a way to get the board warrantied or RMA'd, why not just fix it myself?.

So I did.

Worked. And I'll be testing stuff with it.

First up, water block. If things go right, I'd like to write a mini review about this. Saw a Raystorm for cheap and thought I'd make a comparison test as well.

AMD has been so niche on the watercooling world that we don't get proper reviews within the platform.


----------



## godiegogo214

hey whats up guys.....does anyone know if there is a way to manually control each individual fan header.

I have the r2 version of this board and i only see that i can control cpu header individually but the other 4 headers they all work together....I may be wrong i dont know.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godiegogo214*
> 
> hey whats up guys.....does anyone know if there is a way to manually control each individual fan header.
> 
> I have the r2 version of this board and i only see that i can control cpu header individually but the other 4 headers they all work together....I may be wrong i dont know.


ai suite has them seperated and I'm pretty sure speedfan and the like does the same


----------



## godiegogo214

Si suite separates cpu and chassi fan and the 4 fan header but I want something that says ok cup headers do this fan header 1 do this and so on and so fourth. Thnx for the help


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godiegogo214*
> 
> Si suite separates cpu and chassi fan and the 4 fan header but I want something that says ok cup headers do this fan header 1 do this and so on and so fourth. Thnx for the help


I would read up on how to setup a fan profile on speedfan...it will allow you to sry speeds based on criteria you set


----------



## Xylonjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gordesky1*
> 
> welp found the problem... i was always saying in the 8350 club maybe the board was getting warped which is causing problems? I was right... So i took off the xspc rasa block which i didn't want too because i just put on new gelid thermal paste... But i went ahead anyways better than getting a advance rma and found out it wasin't the problem lol
> 
> So as i was saying i took off the block and was going to put on the stock heatsink, But i figured i still had my old h100 why not try that on instead. so i used cheap paste and pop on the h100 and put it back in the case but let the h100 hang over the side and i put the ram in 1 and 3 slots, And i turn it it on and bang 16gb dual channel...
> 
> 
> 
> So now how tight should the xspc block be? cause it was causing something and i also see little warp on top when i took the board out when the block was still on so it was warping the board and causeing problems with the ram... and if i don't get enough tightness down temps are crazy high..
> 
> Kinda wish the h100 was good at 4.9-5ghz cause i would use that right now cause the mounting system connects right to the amd mounting and causes no stress on the board at all... always thought it was bad but at the moment i like it lol..
> 
> This ram issue also happen with the raijintek triton the first time too...
> 
> But im really glad the board is ok and i didn't have to go threw with the rma..
> 
> Edit got the xspc block back on. And instead of using the amd screw and bolts, I used the intel ones with the amd backplate like i used to when i first got it back in 2010.
> 
> And there's no warping and detected 16gb and dual channel now again


You could probably throw your XSPC block back on. I had the same problem as you when I first got my Sabertooth. It turned out that when I first mounted my heatsink to the CPU I had used uneven pressure when tightening the heatsink down and it affected the IMC. Reseating the heatsink and tightening it down in a criss cross pattern in small increments alleviated my issue and my board went from only recognizing 8GB to the full 16GB in dual channel mode instead of single.


----------



## Xylonjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Friend, I had almost the same problem as you did when I switched to Sabertooth. Though my 2 sticks wouldn't work if I put them in any slots. I also had them all showing up everywhere, but only showing the total memory as just one of them. It seemed that the board wasn't compatible with the modules. BIOS also showed 2 sticks inserted but only total memory as one sticks memory.
> 
> Some things to try... memOK! button, updating BIOS, running the memory at a lower frequency than it's rated at, don't use high voltages, just 1.5V, try to loose up on timings a bit. If nothing helps, try to get some RAM to check out if it works. My Kingston HyperX Fury CL10 1866MHz works normal with it, but the SiliconPower sticks didn't. Seems the board is really picky on RAM.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a speccy pic, you can see that it's the same problem as yours. 2 slots filled, detected both, 2x4GB, but total memory is only 4GB. And also it shows it's single channel. So it looks like the same problem as yours.


Tashc, I think your old memory should still be okay. I was finally able to recall how I resolved the same issue. It turned out that When I mounted my heatsink, I did not apply even pressure and it affected the IMC. You could try reseating your heatsink using even pressure and see if that helps.


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylonjay*
> 
> Tashc, I think your old memory should still be okay. I was finally able to recall how I resolved the same issue. It turned out that When I mounted my heatsink, I did not apply even pressure and it affected the IMC. You could try reseating your heatsink using even pressure and see if that helps.


I had the CPU block reseated 3 times, and only 1 stick out of 2 didn't work. I must try the RAM on the other PC to check if it's really dead or it's my PC issue.


----------



## Xylonjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> My kitty says, meooowww back again, meoooowww lives!


+1 for the work you did repairing that fried EPS connection.


----------



## tashcz

PLEASE, monitor those cables! I have a bunch of experience with A LOT of different connectors, using a lot of different wires with A LOT of current from my RC hobby. Some stuff I made had speed controllers that would take more than 100 amps from a 12V battery. One bad solder connection, one bad connector, one bad wire... all of that can lead to many bad things. Please, keep an eye on temperatures of each cable you put onto that connector and see if it heats even a bit. It's often not the wire that bottlenecks, its usually the connector. You're much better off at replacing that guy than taking your chances. A bad connector can act as a resistor easily, taking up all the heat that can accumulate, and that plastic can melt easily, probably the most that can happen is pins connecting to each other (in a very extreme situation) but the PSU would disable itself from the short. But... please, as I said 3 times, stay safe and monitor that connections you made. All the best with it!

Just to add a tip, try changing it, but it's gonna be a tough challenge, even old motherboards had the solder jobs going through ~10 PCB layers, making it almost impossible to unsolder. You'll need a very high wattage soldering iron and good timing not to damage the mobo, and use lowest temperatures possible if you have a knob on your iron.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> PLEASE, monitor those cables! I have a bunch of experience with A LOT of different connectors, using a lot of different wires with A LOT of current from my RC hobby. Some stuff I made had speed controllers that would take more than 100 amps from a 12V battery. One bad solder connection, one bad connector, one bad wire... all of that can lead to many bad things. Please, keep an eye on temperatures of each cable you put onto that connector and see if it heats even a bit. It's often not the wire that bottlenecks, its usually the connector. You're much better off at replacing that guy than taking your chances. A bad connector can act as a resistor easily, taking up all the heat that can accumulate, and that plastic can melt easily, probably the most that can happen is pins connecting to each other (in a very extreme situation) but the PSU would disable itself from the short. But... please, as I said 3 times, stay safe and monitor that connections you made. All the best with it!
> 
> Just to add a tip, try changing it, but it's gonna be a tough challenge, even old motherboards had the solder jobs going through ~10 PCB layers, making it almost impossible to unsolder. You'll need a very high wattage soldering iron and good timing not to damage the mobo, and use lowest temperatures possible if you have a knob on your iron.


Just in case you didn't get a chance to know, the connections were soldered, no cold solders or any loose ends. The end pins were taken directly from a brand new EPS cable off a Seasonic.


----------



## sk8chalif

Hi guys, So i was in another Thread on the forums to know if i could Run a GTX 980ti without bottleneck at 1920x1080p until i get a better PC to run it in 4k ,
i posted my spec and he said i could

CPU AMD FX-8350 @ 4.0Ghz
Mobo ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0
Memory: G.SKILL Ripjaw 16GB 1600MHZ
GPU: GTX 770 2GB
Cooling Series Corsair H80I
PSU: Corsair TX750

so then he said i could actually Overclocked to 4.6Ghz -4.7Ghz and could help too.

Last time i Overclocked i had bad experience had many bluescreen until i got it right lol.
it's was my old I7 950

I am very visual so i need picture or video showing somone overclocking his fx 8350 so can kind of copy what he does.

so both my question is i need some help to overclock and at the same time if the 980ti will work good and not bottleneck even if i know i wont be able to use the full potential of the card with this CPU//?


----------



## Mega Man

Considering I run quadfire from mine without issue. Yes you can 980s are weak in comparison


----------



## sk8chalif

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Considering I run quadfire from mine without issue. Yes you can 980s are weak in comparison


even the New 980ti? hmm .. I would have never know.


----------



## Mega Man

yea, everyone thinks nvidia gpus are the high level stuff, but they are weak, they have not been worrying about horsepower but rather compression and power saving. but besides that really people need to stop using the term bottle neck, as i can make anything bottleneck anything i just have to manipulate the settings

i think you should maybe look into instead of " getting a better rig, learn to oc, oc, and get a bigger monitor

http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard/0_100


----------



## gordesky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylonjay*
> 
> You could probably throw your XSPC block back on. I had the same problem as you when I first got my Sabertooth. It turned out that when I first mounted my heatsink to the CPU I had used uneven pressure when tightening the heatsink down and it affected the IMC. Reseating the heatsink and tightening it down in a criss cross pattern in small increments alleviated my issue and my board went from only recognizing 8GB to the full 16GB in dual channel mode instead of single.


Yep i have the xspc block back on but using the intel screws that screws into the stock amd plate, With out the plate it was uneven pressure like you said causing it and warping the board.

The weird thing is i always used criss cross pattern. But than again having no back plate is a stupid idea which why i think they bring out the raystorm right after which uses the stock amd back plate.

Was thinking of modding the amd bracket like what someone did in the rasa forum so i can use the amd screws with it for a better mount. Tho i might be going back to the railtek trition which im going to try to expand it with 2 rads and 2 pumps if needed.

Its just weird that i never had this issue with my old gigabyte 790x board when i had this rasa attached to it..


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Considering I run quadfire from mine without issue. *Yes you can 980s are weak in comparison*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Considering I run quadfire from mine without issue. Yes you can 980s are weak in comparison


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sk8chalif*
> 
> Hi guys, So i was in another Thread on the forums to know if i could Run a GTX 980ti without bottleneck at 1920x1080p until i get a better PC to run it in 4k ,
> i posted my spec and he said i could
> 
> CPU AMD FX-8350 @ 4.0Ghz
> Mobo ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0
> Memory: G.SKILL Ripjaw 16GB 1600MHZ
> GPU: GTX 770 2GB
> Cooling Series Corsair H80I
> PSU: Corsair TX750
> 
> so then he said i could actually Overclocked to 4.6Ghz -4.7Ghz and could help too.
> 
> Last time i Overclocked i had bad experience had many bluescreen until i got it right lol.
> it's was my old I7 950
> 
> I am very visual so i need picture or video showing somone overclocking his fx 8350 so can kind of copy what he does.
> 
> so both my question is i need some help to overclock and at the same time if the 980ti will work good and not bottleneck even if i know i wont be able to use the full potential of the card with this CPU//?


Hi man and welcome

Looks like a nice setup you got there man, congrats.

I would say that with your cooler you can get 4.8Ghz out of that chip depending on how good it is and how hot it will run because of volts. Your ambient plays a big role as well.
but with that Motherboard and cooler it could be in your reach.

Overclocking RAM can be beneficial as well in the newer games especially from 1600 to 2400, you can gain a few frames.

I don't think your CPU will bottleneck one 980Ti but when you run SLI or quad SLI with such an high end card you might bottleneck those cards.

Here is a nice video on how bottlenecking works: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DAgpvWc4VBM

Here is a nice beginners guide on how to overclock FX 8350: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MckeAmnDeTk

Good luck and if you need any help, feel free to ask here


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea, *0everyone thinks nvidia gpus are the high level stuff, but they are weak, they have not been worrying about horsepower but rather compression and power saving.* but besides that really people need to stop using the term bottle neck, as i can make anything bottleneck anything i just have to manipulate the settings
> 
> i think you should maybe look into instead of " getting a better rig, learn to oc, oc, and get a bigger monitor
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard/0_100


I would not say weak, you mean that they draw less power than an AMD GPU..

They don't need to worry about horsepower because they are well ahead of AMD for years now.. so they are a head of the game basically. Even their midrange GPU's can compete to AMD's high end stuff.

Also drivers are more mature and are updated much more frequently than AMD, if there is a new game Nvidia is mostly the first one with the best driver for it.


----------



## fx63007850

need some help with my board, i picked one of these the other day 2nd hand, but i only had a chance to set it up today,

the problem is it will not boot/no display, no beeps from speaker and the memok light is solid red, im using 1 stick of ram,

cpu is a phantom x2 555

is there anything i can try


----------



## Mega Man

reseat cpu/ cooler/ mobo, check all elect. connections, most importantly clash your bios using usb flashback ( i dont have the ability to look up the manual but you can look up and you will see what the bios file has to be renamed too


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> reseat cpu/ cooler/ mobo, check all elect. connections, most importantly clash your bios using usb flashback ( i dont have the ability to look up the manual but you can look up and you will see what the bios file has to be renamed too


can you still do the bios flash back if post doesn't start?


----------



## Mega Man

you dont need ram nor cpu to do it, on asus boards look up usb bios flash back in your manual

please note the file you download from asus is not the bios file, it is a exe and needs to be run, running that program will make the bios file, of which then you rename


----------



## Mega Man

woops sorry for the double post !~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea, *0everyone thinks nvidia gpus are the high level stuff, but they are weak, they have not been worrying about horsepower but rather compression and power saving.* but besides that really people need to stop using the term bottle neck, as i can make anything bottleneck anything i just have to manipulate the settings
> 
> i think you should maybe look into instead of " getting a better rig, learn to oc, oc, and get a bigger monitor
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard/0_100
> 
> 
> 
> I would not say weak, you mean that they draw less power than an AMD GPU..
> 
> They don't need to worry about horsepower because they are well ahead of AMD for years now.. so they are a head of the game basically. Even their midrange GPU's can compete to AMD's high end stuff.
> 
> Also drivers are more mature and are updated much more frequently than AMD, if there is a new game Nvidia is mostly the first one with the best driver for it.
Click to expand...

considering you felt your 660tis beat cfx 7970s excuse me if i take this with a grain of salt, if you would like i can get some quotes

not that this is all the points i feel amd surpasses nvidia but here are the headliners

i have had the ability to do 24 screen eyefinity and nvidia just released the ability to do what ? 5 screen surround ?

amd supports 4gpu quadfire and nvidia "officially" supports what 3 gpu << they may still support 4 gpu, but idk so this is a question

amd has trampled nvidia for the last several generations, in higher then normal res, this is why 1 amd generation, specifically the 7970 lasted what 3 generations for nviida ? 580/590, 680/690, 780/790 and all the "ti"s in between ? if nvidia were "light years" then amd/ati would never of been able to do this

and if you cant tell, both this and my original statement are my opinion and hurr, i have the right to express them as such
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sk8chalif*
> 
> Hi guys, So i was in another Thread on the forums to know if i could Run a GTX 980ti without bottleneck at 1920x1080p until i get a better PC to run it in 4k ,
> i posted my spec and he said i could
> 
> CPU AMD FX-8350 @ 4.0Ghz
> Mobo ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0
> Memory: G.SKILL Ripjaw 16GB 1600MHZ
> GPU: GTX 770 2GB
> Cooling Series Corsair H80I
> PSU: Corsair TX750
> 
> so then he said i could actually Overclocked to 4.6Ghz -4.7Ghz and could help too.
> 
> Last time i Overclocked i had bad experience had many bluescreen until i got it right lol.
> it's was my old I7 950
> 
> I am very visual so i need picture or video showing somone overclocking his fx 8350 so can kind of copy what he does.
> 
> so both my question is i need some help to overclock and at the same time if the 980ti will work good and not bottleneck even if i know i wont be able to use the full potential of the card with this CPU//?


http://www.tweaktown.com/tweakipedia/55/amd-fx-8350-powering-gtx-780-sli-vs-gtx-980-sli-at-2560x1440/index.html

http://www.tweaktown.com/tweakipedia/56/amd-fx-8350-powering-gtx-780-sli-vs-gtx-980-sli-at-4k/index.html

no it will not bottle neck it

they were also using one of the weakest motherboards for amd as well


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea, *0everyone thinks nvidia gpus are the high level stuff, but they are weak, they have not been worrying about horsepower but rather compression and power saving.* but besides that really people need to stop using the term bottle neck, as i can make anything bottleneck anything i just have to manipulate the settings
> 
> i think you should maybe look into instead of " getting a better rig, learn to oc, oc, and get a bigger monitor
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard/0_100
> 
> 
> 
> I would not say weak, you mean that they draw less power than an AMD GPU..
> 
> They don't need to worry about horsepower because they are well ahead of AMD for years now.. so they are a head of the game basically. Even their midrange GPU's can compete to AMD's high end stuff.
> 
> Also drivers are more mature and are updated much more frequently than AMD, if there is a new game Nvidia is mostly the first one with the best driver for it.
Click to expand...

7970's at High Res still do quite well, you'd be surprised how fast Nvidia cards fall off when you start jacking the resolution up on them.

And btw, the 980 still draws alot of power.....just not for a sustained period of time, and the driver thing is getting old.....how does Nvidia's newest driver go for Keplar cards anyway?
Scales backwards doesn't it?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> woops sorry for the double post !~
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea, *0everyone thinks nvidia gpus are the high level stuff, but they are weak, they have not been worrying about horsepower but rather compression and power saving.* but besides that really people need to stop using the term bottle neck, as i can make anything bottleneck anything i just have to manipulate the settings
> 
> i think you should maybe look into instead of " getting a better rig, learn to oc, oc, and get a bigger monitor
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard/0_100
> 
> 
> 
> I would not say weak, you mean that they draw less power than an AMD GPU..
> 
> They don't need to worry about horsepower because they are well ahead of AMD for years now.. so they are a head of the game basically. Even their midrange GPU's can compete to AMD's high end stuff.
> 
> Also drivers are more mature and are updated much more frequently than AMD, if there is a new game Nvidia is mostly the first one with the best driver for it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> considering you felt your 660tis beat cfx 7970s excuse me if i take this with a grain of salt, if you would like i can get some quotes
> 
> not that this is all the points i feel amd surpasses nvidia but here are the headliners
> 
> i have had the ability to do 24 screen eyefinity and nvidia just released the ability to do what ? 5 screen surround ?
> 
> amd supports 4gpu quadfire and nvidia "officially" supports what 3 gpu << they may still support 4 gpu, but idk so this is a question
> 
> amd has trampled nvidia for the last several generations, in higher then normal res, this is why 1 amd generation, specifically the 7970 lasted what 3 generations for nviida ? 580/590, 680/690, 780/790 and all the "ti"s in between ? if nvidia were "light years" then amd/ati would never of been able to do this
> 
> and if you cant tell, both this and my original statement are my opinion and hurr, i have the right to express them as such
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sk8chalif*
> 
> Hi guys, So i was in another Thread on the forums to know if i could Run a GTX 980ti without bottleneck at 1920x1080p until i get a better PC to run it in 4k ,
> i posted my spec and he said i could
> 
> CPU AMD FX-8350 @ 4.0Ghz
> Mobo ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0
> Memory: G.SKILL Ripjaw 16GB 1600MHZ
> GPU: GTX 770 2GB
> Cooling Series Corsair H80I
> PSU: Corsair TX750
> 
> so then he said i could actually Overclocked to 4.6Ghz -4.7Ghz and could help too.
> 
> Last time i Overclocked i had bad experience had many bluescreen until i got it right lol.
> it's was my old I7 950
> 
> I am very visual so i need picture or video showing somone overclocking his fx 8350 so can kind of copy what he does.
> 
> so both my question is i need some help to overclock and at the same time if the 980ti will work good and not bottleneck even if i know i wont be able to use the full potential of the card with this CPU//?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> http://www.tweaktown.com/tweakipedia/55/amd-fx-8350-powering-gtx-780-sli-vs-gtx-980-sli-at-2560x1440/index.html
> 
> http://www.tweaktown.com/tweakipedia/56/amd-fx-8350-powering-gtx-780-sli-vs-gtx-980-sli-at-4k/index.html
> 
> no it will not bottle neck it
> 
> they were also using one of the weakest motherboards for amd as well
Click to expand...

^ That.....If you are going for Crossfire or SLI then you'd want the resolution to justify it to start with, no point in getting 2 x 980's for 1080p


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you dont need ram nor cpu to do it, on asus boards look up usb bios flash back in your manual
> 
> please note the file you download from asus is not the bios file, it is a exe and needs to be run, running that program will make the bios file, of which then you rename


I thought you actually needed to be able to get into bios...that's pretty sweet...and I feel stupid too because after I posted I thought...I lot of motherboard need bid update to support the 8 series processors and you had to flash before installing so...Yeah I'll just bang my head against the wall


----------



## Mega Man

dont be, sometimes we just need to be reminded of the basics, and yes it is my fav feature of all the asus top end boards now have this


----------



## warpuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylonjay*
> 
> You could probably throw your XSPC block back on. I had the same problem as you when I first got my Sabertooth. It turned out that when I first mounted my heatsink to the CPU I had used uneven pressure when tightening the heatsink down and it affected the IMC. Reseating the heatsink and tightening it down in a criss cross pattern in small increments alleviated my issue and my board went from only recognizing 8GB to the full 16GB in dual channel mode instead of single.


I put a heatkiller 3.0 on mine. They recommend 150NM clamping pressure for a xeon cpu. But all they would say for AM3+ CPU is you can use more. I could not find anything posted by AMD about that either. Watercool have charts for distance of the head of the screw to the washer for different pressures. They also recommend to use a dial caliper or micrometer to measure the spring compression. The stated max was 200NM, so that is what I used. Overclocked and over tightened? I contacted the board manufacturer about max CPU clamping pressure. All I got was they did not understand the question.

Workin good so far kinda disappointed about my OC got 5.22 does not run stable to use daily. Did not make any difference in Firestrike scores between stock and OCed. But 9590 stock speeds are good enough for 13000 (crossfired R9 285s) with all the background apps off.


----------



## Xylonjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gordesky1*
> 
> Yep i have the xspc block back on but using the intel screws that screws into the stock amd plate, With out the plate it was uneven pressure like you said causing it and warping the board.
> 
> The weird thing is i always used criss cross pattern. But than again having no back plate is a stupid idea which why i think they bring out the raystorm right after which uses the stock amd back plate.
> 
> Was thinking of modding the amd bracket like what someone did in the rasa forum so i can use the amd screws with it for a better mount. Tho i might be going back to the railtek trition which im going to try to expand it with 2 rads and 2 pumps if needed.
> 
> Its just weird that i never had this issue with my old gigabyte 790x board when i had this rasa attached to it..


Good to hear you got it straightened out. It had me baffled. Glad it wasn't anything major too.


----------



## bkvamme

Hi all!

Looks like I'll be getting a Sabertooth R2.0 and a FX-9590 to replace my 990FXA-GD80 and FX-6350. Any experience with using the 9590? Does the Sabertooth board handle the 220W power delivery? Has anybody been able to overclock it?

Before I get my head bashed in, I am purchasing this second hand, and the FX-9590 is bundled with the motherboard, and is actually cheaper than to get a FX-8350









edit: Also, has anybody tried to alter the colors on the motherboard? Would like to cover up some of the beige/moss with matte black vinyl, as I am doing a black/blue build, and the colors don't really match in. I'll probably leave the heatsinks as is, although I would really like to cover them up in vinyl as well.


----------



## miklkit

The main issue with the Sabertooth is keeping the VRMs cool, or actually less hot. Coat that thing with a layer of fans front and back and you should be ok.


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> The main issue with the Sabertooth is keeping the VRMs cool, or actually less hot. Coat that thing with a layer of fans front and back and you should be ok.


I'll have fans pulling air directly above the VRM heatsink, and to the side of it, but I don't have any fans blowing air directly over the VRM heatsink.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Hi all!
> 
> Looks like I'll be getting a Sabertooth R2.0 and a FX-9590 to replace my 990FXA-GD80 and FX-6350. Any experience with using the 9590? Does the Sabertooth board handle the 220W power delivery? Has anybody been able to overclock it?
> 
> Before I get my head bashed in, I am purchasing this second hand, and the FX-9590 is bundled with the motherboard, and is actually cheaper than to get a FX-8350
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: Also, has anybody tried to alter the colors on the motherboard? Would like to cover up some of the beige/moss with matte black vinyl, as I am doing a black/blue build, and the colors don't really match in. I'll probably leave the heatsinks as is, although I would really like to cover them up in vinyl as well.


Consider full water cooling to Keep the CPU cool. Dont plan on the 5.0GHZ out of the box. The Turbo core does not work - Use it and your system will Freeze. Manual over clock to 5.0 . The 4.7 Works fine out of the box. Thats a good start. Keep the VRMS cool. Good luck


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Hi all!
> 
> Looks like I'll be getting a Sabertooth R2.0 and a FX-9590
> 
> edit: Also, has anybody tried to alter the colors on the motherboard? Would like to cover up some of the beige/moss with matte black vinyl, as I am doing a black/blue build, and the colors don't really match in. I'll probably leave the heatsinks as is, although I would really like to cover them up in vinyl as well.


Don't use vinyl on the vrms cooler, it will melt, instead cover everything with fans, you'll never see the colour....


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Hi all!
> 
> Looks like I'll be getting a Sabertooth R2.0 and a FX-9590 to replace my 990FXA-GD80 and FX-6350. Any experience with using the 9590? Does the Sabertooth board handle the 220W power delivery? Has anybody been able to overclock it?
> 
> Before I get my head bashed in, I am purchasing this second hand, and the FX-9590 is bundled with the motherboard, and is actually cheaper than to get a FX-8350
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: Also, has anybody tried to alter the colors on the motherboard? Would like to cover up some of the beige/moss with matte black vinyl, as I am doing a black/blue build, and the colors don't really match in. I'll probably leave the heatsinks as is, although I would really like to cover them up in vinyl as well.


most people that I've seen change the saber use paint...vinyl is too susceptible to burning/peeling/misforming during heat cycle


----------



## Mega Man

The Saber kitty is the second best mobo it can handle the 9590 without issue.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The Saber kitty is the second best mobo it can handle the 9590 without issue.


^this.

In my experience using the CHVFZ and the Kitty, the only thing going for the CHVFZ is a much lower socket temp. Otherwise, the kitty can handle what the CHVFZ can. Plus, Power Delivery on the Kitty far superior than the CHVFZ IMO.

I'm pointing to the flatness of the Voltages the Kitty gives compared to the CHVFZ.


----------



## zila

Yup, I own them both. They are killer boards, best of the best.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The Saber kitty is the second best mobo it can handle the 9590 without issue.
> 
> 
> 
> ^this.
> 
> In my experience using the CHVFZ and the Kitty, the only thing going for the CHVFZ is a much lower socket temp. Otherwise, the kitty can handle what the CHVFZ can. Plus, Power Delivery on the Kitty far superior than the CHVFZ IMO.
> 
> I'm pointing to the flatness of the Voltages the Kitty gives compared to the CHVFZ.
Click to expand...

I really need to get a bit more experience with the kitty......need to convince the wife to let me do it though


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Yup, I own them both. They are killer boards, best of the best.


as do i
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The Saber kitty is the second best mobo it can handle the 9590 without issue.
> 
> 
> 
> ^this.
> 
> In my experience using the CHVFZ and the Kitty, the only thing going for the CHVFZ is a much lower socket temp. Otherwise, the kitty can handle what the CHVFZ can. Plus, Power Delivery on the Kitty far superior than the CHVFZ IMO.
> 
> I'm pointing to the flatness of the Voltages the Kitty gives compared to the CHVFZ.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I really need to get a bit more experience with the kitty......need to convince the wife to let me do it though
Click to expand...

/point /lauggh,

buy it,

not like she will ever know >.>


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Yup, I own them both. They are killer boards, best of the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as do i
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The Saber kitty is the second best mobo it can handle the 9590 without issue.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ^this.
> 
> In my experience using the CHVFZ and the Kitty, the only thing going for the CHVFZ is a much lower socket temp. Otherwise, the kitty can handle what the CHVFZ can. Plus, Power Delivery on the Kitty far superior than the CHVFZ IMO.
> 
> I'm pointing to the flatness of the Voltages the Kitty gives compared to the CHVFZ.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I really need to get a bit more experience with the kitty......need to convince the wife to let me do it though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> /point /lauggh,
> 
> buy it,
> 
> not like she will ever know >.>
Click to expand...

Yeah, that won't work for a couple of reasons:

1. I don't need one

2. I'm saving up for another build anyway

3. Why a Saberkitty when i already have a CVF and CVF-Z?


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Hi all!
> 
> Looks like I'll be getting a Sabertooth R2.0 and a FX-9590 to replace my 990FXA-GD80 and FX-6350. Any experience with using the 9590? Does the Sabertooth board handle the 220W power delivery? Has anybody been able to overclock it?
> 
> Before I get my head bashed in, I am purchasing this second hand, and the FX-9590 is bundled with the motherboard, and is actually cheaper than to get a FX-8350
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: Also, has anybody tried to alter the colors on the motherboard? Would like to cover up some of the beige/moss with matte black vinyl, as I am doing a black/blue build, and the colors don't really match in. I'll probably leave the heatsinks as is, although I would really like to cover them up in vinyl as well.


leave the colors... hide them with fans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> I'll have fans pulling air directly above the VRM heatsink, and to the side of it, but I don't have any fans blowing air directly over the VRM heatsink.


I used old stock cooler fans over my vrm's... really helped

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Consider full water cooling to Keep the CPU cool. Dont plan on the 5.0GHZ out of the box. The Turbo core does not work - Use it and your system will Freeze. Manual over clock to 5.0 . The 4.7 Works fine out of the box. Thats a good start. Keep the VRMS cool. Good luck


Turbo does work for me... no issues.. but I didn't keep it there for long... I soon overclocked to 5ghz then 5.2... but backed off to 5.1 on all 8...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The Saber kitty is the second best mobo it can handle the 9590 without issue.


^ this2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> ^this.
> 
> In my experience using the CHVFZ and the Kitty, the only thing going for the CHVFZ is a much lower socket temp. Otherwise, the kitty can handle what the CHVFZ can. Plus, Power Delivery on the Kitty far superior than the CHVFZ IMO.
> 
> I'm pointing to the flatness of the Voltages the Kitty gives compared to the CHVFZ.


People reviewing the boards stated this about the voltages... and yeah, I can't complain... best board I've ever had as far as the amount of control I have.. .however, in fairness, I've never owned a CHV-Z


----------



## Mrs Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Yeah, that won't work for a couple of reasons:
> 
> 1. I don't need one
> 
> 2. I'm saving up for another build anyway
> 
> 3. Why a Saberkitty when i already have a CVF and CVF-Z?


-You forgot..

4. Your wife is also on this forum...


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrs Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Yeah, that won't work for a couple of reasons:
> 
> 1. I don't need one
> 
> 2. I'm saving up for another build anyway
> 
> 3. Why a Saberkitty when i already have a CVF and CVF-Z?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -You forgot..
> 
> 4. Your wife is also on this forum...
Click to expand...

I didn't forget that.....It's always in the back of my mind somewhere


----------



## hurricane28

haha 1-0 for Mrs Bilko









No worries Mrs Bilko, your husband is one of the good guys on here


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrs Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Yeah, that won't work for a couple of reasons:
> 
> 1. I don't need one
> 
> 2. I'm saving up for another build anyway
> 
> 3. Why a Saberkitty when i already have a CVF and CVF-Z?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -You forgot..
> 
> 4. Your wife is also on this forum...
Click to expand...

Run away


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrs Bilko*
> 
> -You forgot..
> 
> 4. Your wife is also on this forum...


ROFLMAO +rep for making my day...


----------



## mus1mus

Can someone tell me what'd just happen?


----------



## Mrs Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> haha 1-0 for Mrs Bilko
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No worries Mrs Bilko, your husband is one of the good guys on here


I am sure he is, I would never doubt that..







After all I did marry him..








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Run away


Yeah you better... You were the one encouraging him to "not tell" - Not him.. *Starts tapping rolling pin in her left hand*








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> ROFLMAO +rep for making my day...


Thanks! My first rep evaaah








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Can someone tell me what'd just happen?











^ Yesh... I am awesome..

Also, Bilko is always welcome to use my parts to play around with (no pun intended) - but it will require us to be together first, which is 12.000 miles apart atm. and that's what our savings are going to first of all







$2000 trips..

Now how do I become a member of this awesome Saberkitty AMD club?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrs Bilko*
> 
> I am sure he is, I would never doubt that..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all I did marry him..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah you better... You were the one encouraging him to "not tell" - Not him.. *Starts tapping rolling pin in her left hand*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! My first rep evaaah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^ Yesh... I am awesome..
> 
> Also, Bilko is always welcome to use my parts to play around with (no pun intended) - but it will require us to be together first, which is 12.000 miles apart atm. and that's what our savings are going to first of all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $2000 trips..
> 
> Now how do I become a member of this awesome Saberkitty AMD club?


Download install CPUZ get a validation go to the first page of this forum big red letters click here to add yourself to this forum and + 1


----------



## Mrs Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Download install CPUZ get a validation go to the first page of this forum big red letters click here to add yourself to this forum and + 1


Now why didn't anyone tell me it was that easy before?








Had that forever almost.. http://valid.x86.fr/0h2fmn

-And thank you for my second rep evaah! <3


----------



## warpuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> I really need to get a bit more experience with the kitty......need to convince the wife to let me do it though


If my Asrock Extreme9 can do a 9590 @ 5.2 and 1.55 volts, a Saberkitty can do more. What it can't do is a ground fault thru a failed VR on a Windforce HD7870, that is not cover by the warranty. If it was a Asus 7870 maybe. I don't have any problems I can see running Battlefield with two R9 285s crossfired running at default settings with 2400 speed ram. I am using only one 2560 x 1440 monitor. Would be a problem if I was using 3 monitors. That would most likely be a GPU issue, not a CPU issue. It's prettty much is the same as using a GTX 690 That vid card is in the olde lady's >air cooled, (hint hint) 4.5ghz 8350< MSI 890fx machine.







Noctua NH C14


----------



## Mrs Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Download install CPUZ get a validation go to the first page of this forum big red letters click here to add yourself to this forum and + 1


Oh wait, do I need to tell why the name are different on my CPU-Z and my forum name? Does it make it invalid?


----------



## Jflisk

To be honest I think it needs to match.


----------



## Mrs Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> To be honest I think it needs to match.


Aaaw.. Not gonna happen then because that's my name everywhere else, Steam, Origin, Twitch.. Only on this forum I'm Mrs Bilko


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrs Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> To be honest I think it needs to match.
> 
> 
> 
> Aaaw.. Not gonna happen then because that's my name everywhere else, Steam, Origin, Twitch.. Only on this forum I'm Mrs Bilko
Click to expand...

When you do the validation in cpu-z, change the username to mrs bilko then submit


----------



## Jflisk

And now for something completely different. I was using OCCT for stability testing and getting 63C under load. I think it was shutting off my fan control computer or the USB outputs on the board. My mini display running off the usb also goes blank when I am running OCCT. These are the motherboard headers usb. I purchased AIDA64 and stressed tested 54C Max after an hour. But my Fans were spinning up and down with OCCT I did not hear the spin up or down.


----------



## mcg75

Thread tidied up a bit.

Guys, please try to keep posts from going too far off topic. It's an owners club and we like to give lots of leeway but when there are reports sent in by members of multiple pages of off topic conversations, we have to clean it up.

Thanks.


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcg75*
> 
> Thread tidied up a bit.
> 
> Guys, please try to keep posts from going too far off topic. It's an owners club and we like to give lots of leeway but when there are reports sent in by members of multiple pages of off topic conversations, we have to clean it up.
> 
> Thanks.


Cheers mate, we will try to stay on topic.


----------



## Mrs Bilko

Yaaay! I'm OFFICIAL!












Rawr!


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrs Bilko*
> 
> Yaaay! I'm OFFICIAL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rawr!


Nice one Mrs Bilko, so what overclock are we aiming for?


----------



## Mrs Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> Nice one Mrs Bilko, so what overclock are we aiming for?


Oh I forgot that? Shoot.. Here









CPU-Z|Firestrike|Ultra|Extreme

Sorry if I screwed up somewhere, I'm a n00b.


----------



## Mega Man

o:
congrats


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrs Bilko*
> 
> Oh I forgot that? Shoot.. Here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU-Z|Firestrike|Ultra|Extreme
> 
> Sorry if I screwed up somewhere, I'm a n00b.


color me impressed


----------



## Mrs Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> o:
> congrats


Thanks..








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> color me impressed


Tell that to Sgt Bilko - He guided me on the phone.. lol


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrs Bilko*
> 
> Yaaay! I'm OFFICIAL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rawr!


Nice, you will be very happy with it.
I have the same board an i must say that i am very impressed by its performance, it can handle everything i can throw at it this far.

Good luck with it


----------



## Mrs Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Nice, you will be very happy with it.
> I have the same board an i must say that i am very impressed by its performance, it can handle everything i can throw at it this far.
> 
> Good luck with it


Thanks, I already am, I bought it like.. 8 months ago, but I just never was official in this thread..


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrs Bilko*
> 
> Thanks, I already am, I bought it like.. 8 months ago, but I just never was official in this thread..


Ah i see, well than again, good luck with it


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrs Bilko*
> 
> Thanks, I already am, I bought it like.. 8 months ago, but I just never was official in this thread..


It is good to see you back here.


----------



## Mrs Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Ah i see, well than again, good luck with it


Thank yooou.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> It is good to see you back here.


Thanks...!! I guess. Haha.








Although, I haven't been here before I guess I kinda am.. back here?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrs Bilko*
> 
> Yaaay! I'm OFFICIAL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rawr!


that now looks close to my rig


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I remember the ecstasy of when I opened the box containing my saberkitty the first time







I was soooo happy.. and then when I got to overclocking I was all







then when I finally got the chip I have now... a good clocker... I've been all










































ever since... love my kitty.


----------



## Mrs Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> that now looks close to my rig


Picture??








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I remember the ecstasy of when I opened the box containing my saberkitty the first time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was soooo happy.. and then when I got to overclocking I was all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then when I finally got the chip I have now... a good clocker... I've been all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ever since... love my kitty.


Yeah Bilko originally bought me an Asus M5 - but I didn't like the blue colours - and the extra warranty appealed to me on this.. I've been happy with my choice ever since..


----------



## Kryton

Yeah, the Saberkitty is a good one.
Nothing bad to say about it on my part and it's even given me better results before than I could get from my CHV-Z board at times.
Not that the CHV-Z isn't capable (Because it is) but the Kitty I have is that good.

Might be more expensive than other AM3+ models similar to it but well worth the extra $$'s.


----------



## zila

Yup, they are well worth the price. They are the best 990FX boards out there.


----------



## mus1mus

If only the kitty exhibits much cooler socket temps than it does, it will be the best board there is. But I guess that's a crosshair benefit for the price premium


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> If only the kitty exhibits much cooler socket temps than it does, it will be the best board there is. But I guess that's a crosshair benefit for the price premium


Watercooling the VRMs on the Saberkitty for me took the socket temp reliably from being -10*C warmer to -10*C cooler than package temp


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Watercooling the VRMs on the Saberkitty for me took the socket temp reliably from being -10*C warmer to -10*C cooler than package temp


imagine what will happen if you watercool a CHVFZ.









I get what you mean though.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> imagine what will happen if you watercool a CHVFZ.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I get what you mean though.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks familiar...where have I seen that before....


----------



## mus1mus

I was a member of the (almost)OCN Club


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Watercooling the VRMs on the Saberkitty for me took the socket temp reliably from being -10*C warmer to -10*C cooler than package temp


You should link to your build and instructions on putting the Kitty under water. Those instructions are awesome.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> You should link to your build and instructions on putting the Kitty under water. Those instructions are awesome.


Thank you! The link is in my signature


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Watercooling the VRMs on the Saberkitty for me took the socket temp reliably from being -10*C warmer to -10*C cooler than package temp


edit: you ninjad me... You would think by now someone would have came up with a block for them....you know it would sell pretty good around here I would buy one on site (heh)...


----------



## mus1mus

Sure. If it's available, I'd take one myself too.

But even the MVRs are out of my reach locally. Good thing is, a couple high SP fan on the VRMs and the backside lowered my socket temps. Now leveling the core temps.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

hmm... got bored... tried to OC to 5.2ghz again... booted... passed stability (short version) ran a few benches... temps stayed under critical levels... nothing over 70C the whole time... so ok... I'll play a bit now... suddenly freeze... dang... not stable... hit reset... cpu light...didn't reset...cpu light was on... "$#!7 I killed it!"... nope.. power off... rebooted @ 5.2ghz... now I've ran into this problem before... I know it... but its been a while and I've forgotten how I got past this... ideas? btw: I just used my 24/7 settings for 5.1ghz and bumped the clock/volts up to get 5.2...

edit.... I forgot to mention that it froze when attempting to run cinebench fps test... the cpu tests both passed fine.

edit edit... could it be the current capability... I thinks I've left those at default.... or maybe the volt monitoring.. I remember once on my 8350 I had this happen and it was something stupid simple like that... just can't put my finger on *zzzzzzeerrrttt* ouch that was live... yeah.. dang got to get ready for work... tons of garbage to fix at work.. oh the fun of playing in cnc cabinets with 480v live inches from the switches that you have to switch while the machine is ON to get into parameter editing mode.... crap... *zzzzeeeerrrrrtttttt pow smoke* <=== that really happened... not to me... but recently we had an issue I couldn't solve because we needed hardware I couldn't just order... the tech came in and well... now we need a new tech, hardware and machine.... I told him not to do that.... sry... by my typing I'd say the coffee is kicking in rofl.


----------



## mus1mus

Dangerous temps?

You are lucky on your chips Vcore requirements but I guess I am luckier on my Heat output.








Just a hair below 1.6 and producing Temps in the low 50Cs.





Edit:

Socket stays within the Core now. Thanks to 2 3500 RPM Deltas pointed to the VRMs








Before you say they are LOUD, they're not compared to 3 HP switches in the room!


----------



## Minotaurtoo

All temps stayed down on monitoring software that I saw... I'm thinking maybe current draw exceeded limit and triggered protection on main board .,.. Last time I tried 5.2 it was cold so it didn't need as much vcore anyway it's ok I'll tinker with it later... At work now lol


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> All temps stayed down on monitoring software that I saw... I'm thinking maybe current draw exceeded limit and triggered protection on main board .,.. Last time I tried 5.2 it was cold so it didn't need as much vcore anyway it's ok I'll tinker with it later... At work now lol


I have seen that scenario on my dead 8320. I cannot run CB15's OpenGL Test. Even with a stable 5.1GHz. On this one, it doesn't happen....yet







I have everything maxed out on the Power Phases. Except for LLCs

CPU - Ultra runs cooler in my experience vs High. And uses lower Vocre at Idle
CPU-NB - Regular tends to be more stable for me.
Memory - Extreme IDK know why I did.








Power Phase Frequency - 350 for less heat on the VRMs that translates to a hotter Socket that raises the Core Temps.









By the way, I verify my clocks with Prime Blend after IBT and vice versa. And some Benchmarks for the score scaling.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Power Phase Frequency - 350 for less heat on the VRMs that translates to a hotter Socket that raises the Core Temps.


Interesting observation!

Are there any guides on Power Phase Frequency?

So for those of us who have lots of VRM temperature headroom, what would be the right direction to go? What exactly does this feature do? Ees it safe?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Interesting observation!
> 
> Are there any guides on Power Phase Frequency?
> 
> So for those of us who have lots of VRM temperature headroom, what would be the right direction to go? What exactly does this feature do? Ees it safe?


Eet smoothens the VCore in my observation. But the real essence is to have a faster power response needed for extreme clocks.

The Vcore or any VRM output rail are digital Voltage Pulses. The higher the frequency, the more time the supply is opened per second, the more current it can produce, the flatter is the Voltage if graphed magnified.

The drawback is that, the VRM components heat up more with higher frequency due to them having less OFF duration.

And we know that Socket temps is related to VRM temps. And so is the Core temps.

What I did, is to look for a Voltage Value barely enough for a stable clock. Then play aroubd the VRM frequency. If you can observe, the Vcore has Highs and Lows on a graph when you double click it on HWInfo. You'd want it Flat if not, at least staying on the High Value more often than on the Low side.

Why, coz you can then look for the max clock it can support. If it stays more on the low side at load, the high value is a waste.

Now, for the VCore, you actually have to tick 2 values in the BIOS to represent an increase or decrease on the Value at Windows.

Like on my set-up, 1.575 Vcore will mean a value of 1.572 or 1.584 at Windows at Idle at Ultra High LLC.


At load, it went to a Value of 1.584 momentarily then rise up again to 1.596 for the duration of the IBT Pass.


Then went back to 1.584 as the Pass is completed.


That repeats for the duration of the test.

With the right set-up, it should be at Max Value more often. You can even get it to stay at the Max Value the whole time given the right Frequency.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

ok this is annoying.. why is the open gl failing on cinebench R15??? all other tests are going nicely... but the open gl is insta freeze... and cpu light comes on upon reset... all other stuff is good... now I tried it on my 5.1 profile.. all went well.. so what is it about the open gl that's hanging it.. temps don't even elevate running it hardly on my 5.1 profile... insta freeze on 5.2, but monitoring software shows no high temps over 40C just running open gl so what gives? more volts?? more cpu/nb volts? only thing I changed from 5.1profile to 5.2 is cpu multi and volts up to 1.55 from 1.5... one time I did try to turn up phase responce and current capabilities... still not good.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

oh I give.. tried to up volts... temps still not bad during open gl on cinebench 11.5 but R 15 is instafreeze... intel burn test produced temps in low 60's during short test.... cpu test for render on both r 11.5 and 15 had peaks in low 60's, but no errors... so... why is the open gl failing on 5.2ghz but not 5.1... guess I have found my max reliable limit... now the funny part is that I considered my 5.2 profile stable until now... all other tests it passed under cooler weather with temps only hitting upper 50's on cores... abandoned that profile because in warmer weather temps hit 60's... but now was just going back to run the benches I forgot... primarily cinebench r15... and then boom... now I can't trust that profile....


----------



## mus1mus

Just did it.

It could be Stability related.

Try upping the CPU-NB a bit.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

here is what I just tried... upped cpu/nb to 1.3 from 1.25... (1.25 proved stable on current profile btw) upped vcore ... still freezes at 5.2... maybe I've found the limit of my cpu under normal cooling?

ram is at 2400mhz as well as cpu/nb... bus speed at 200mhz ... cpu 5.2 ht is at 2600 .... thinking of trying something real quick... maybe a bus/multi OC.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> here is what I just tried... upped cpu/nb to 1.3 from 1.25... (1.25 proved stable on current profile btw) upped vcore ... still freezes at 5.2... maybe I've found the limit of my cpu under normal cooling?
> 
> ram is at 2400mhz as well as cpu/nb... bus speed at 200mhz ... cpu 5.2 ht is at 2600 .... thinking of trying something real quick... maybe a bus/multi OC.


It's not temp related. Barely hit 35 on my runs.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

yeah, that's what I was noticing... wierd..maybe my chip has a hard ceiling... I haven't been able to do anything over 5.423 even for a second... as soon as I clicked validate it froze... lol... going to try this bus/multi mix... getting 5.201ghz atm.. little lower mem and cpu/nb... but not much.


----------



## mus1mus

How I'd like to have a 2400 memory to take advantage of a stable 2600 CPUNB.

I am limited to 2133 atm. It's not even stable from these 1866 sticks. But my latencies are low at under 49ns with 2080 8-8-9-22.

This should be my daily clock though. Not a benching profile.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

my timings are turd... well not totally turd.. but kinda high.. 11 13 13 31 ... weird huh, but I needed that ram to get a game I like to stop stuttering in city environments at 60fps... limited to 30 it wouldn't stutter... I had no idea what it was as neither my video card or my cpu were anywhere near max, but I got stutter... I tried all kinds of tweaks... and finally I read somewhere that the game loved fast ram better than tight timing ram... so I went and got some corsair vengeance pro 2400 mhz ram... nice stuff... and really performs well... solved my problem quickly.


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> ok this is annoying.. why is the open gl failing on cinebench R15??? all other tests are going nicely... but the open gl is insta freeze... and cpu light comes on upon reset... all other stuff is good... now I tried it on my 5.1 profile.. all went well.. so what is it about the open gl that's hanging it.. temps don't even elevate running it hardly on my 5.1 profile... insta freeze on 5.2, but monitoring software shows no high temps over 40C just running open gl so what gives? more volts?? more cpu/nb volts? only thing I changed from 5.1profile to 5.2 is cpu multi and volts up to 1.55 from 1.5... one time I did try to turn up phase responce and current capabilities... still not good.


Could it be graphics card related? I had problems when I first got my 270x ( overclocked it to far)/


----------



## Minotaurtoo

well I give up... really I do... mostly because volts might solve it... but I don't want to keep pushing as temps climb a bit each volt step and so far I haven't reached a point that the error clears out... and already reaching volt levels where I'd be concerned about running IBTAVX for over 5mins! On my 5.1 profile I've run AOD, Prime95, IBTAVX and some other various tests on and all have passed with flying colors... heck what testing I had done on my 5.2 profile showed good signs, I just had never tried to run that cinebench R15 open gl... glad I did.. it pointed out a stability issue that the short tests I had performed missed...

The thing that bothers me about it is that the cpu light comes on upon reset... and that its a test that doesn't really stress the cpu ... AT ALL... soooo why the freeze... what gives... that's why I posted the question here instead of in the vishera thread.... thinking it maybe something else..

I know as you climb in speed things that didn't matter before start to matter... sometimes becoming critical... hoping someone has had this before and knows what it is for sure... but I feel silly even chasing that last 100mhz lol... its like that time I built a racing truck with my brother.. I took it for a test run down a long highway straight, and came back complaining about a "strange vibration" at 160mph..... kinda wish I never sold that truck now.... ugh. guess I'm stuck going at 5.1ghz.... dang it...


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> Could it be graphics card related? I had problems when I first got my 270x ( overclocked it to far)/


runs fine on my 5.1ghz profile with same gpu clocks... but I guess its possible that somehow that last bit of cpu speed brings out an unknown till now problem.... hang on... I'll run it now and post screen shots


----------



## Minotaurtoo

this is on my proven 5.1ghz profile and the open gl test went through just fine... you can see where I ran the cpu test on the 5.2 profile... but the open gl always freezes


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this is on my proven 5.1ghz profile and the open gl test went through just fine... you can see where I ran the cpu test on the 5.2 profile... but the open gl always freezes


Maybe 5.1 is your stable limit. I backed of to 5.0 as it meant cooler temps but what's 0.1 between friends


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> Maybe 5.1 is your stable limit. I backed of to 5.0 as it meant cooler temps but what's 0.1 between friends


I'm beginning to think that it is my stable limit... just a hard stop lol... I've heard of others that say these later batches of vishera clock easier at lower volts but hit hard limits early in the volt climb... and it seems that is the case here... yeah its just .1 ... but 5.1 is soooo slow and 5.2 zooms along lol oh well.. guess I'll have to settle


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I'm beginning to think that it is my stable limit... just a hard stop lol... I've heard of others that say these later batches of vishera clock easier at lower volts but hit hard limits early in the volt climb... and it seems that is the case here... yeah its just .1 ... but 5.1 is soooo slow and 5.2 zooms along lol oh well.. guess I'll have to settle


Seen that at 5.3


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> yeah, that's what I was noticing... wierd..maybe my chip has a hard ceiling... I haven't been able to do anything over 5.423 even for a second... as soon as I clicked validate it froze... lol... going to try this bus/multi mix... getting 5.201ghz atm.. little lower mem and cpu/nb... but not much.


Minotaurtoo - Is looking for an excuse to buy a new CPU


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Minotaurtoo - Is looking for an excuse to buy a new CPU










I have no clue what you mean lol.... nah... just kinda peeved that 5.1 is soooo easy and comfy temps... but 5.2 is being a jerk


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have no clue what you mean lol.... nah... just kinda peeved that 5.1 is soooo easy and comfy temps... but 5.2 is being a jerk


Fix the whole problem LN cooling 6GHZ easy for as long as it last.


----------



## tashcz

Guys,

Were any of you looking for a tool to monitor VCore/CPU freq/VRM temps, all sensors from the thermal radar on a remote PC?

I have a Win8 tablet on which I'd like to view all those remotely while in applications. Is that possible anyway? I though there was a "remote control" tool, not a remote desktop tool but a remote monitoring/controling tool.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Guys,
> 
> Were any of you looking for a tool to monitor VCore/CPU freq/VRM temps, all sensors from the thermal radar on a remote PC?
> 
> I have a Win8 tablet on which I'd like to view all those remotely while in applications. Is that possible anyway? I though there was a "remote control" tool, not a remote desktop tool but a remote monitoring/controling tool.


I came across an app that we tried that with in the CHV thread (in my sig) a while back.
Turns out the app (from Asus) is only for a limited few Intel mobos and does not work on the AMD side.

That's all I've seen so far for mobile devices but Asus does have ROG Connect on the CHV-Z while allows control and monitoring via USB but not sure that's an option on a Kitty.


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> I came across an app that we tried that with in the CHV thread (in my sig) a while back.
> Turns out the app (from Asus) is only for a limited few Intel mobos and does not work on the AMD side.
> 
> That's all I've seen so far.


Meh... It won't do the job for me :/ I need something for the 990FX.

I thought there was a bunch of this stuff... I even thought some of it came on the CD with the software, but no such thing.

I think CHV comes with such software though. Did you guys manage to get it working with the AM3+?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Meh... It won't do the job for me :/ I need something for the 990FX.
> Did you guys manage to get it working with the AM3+?


Negative on the app, limited Intel only








but yes the ROG Connect does indeed work on the Z at least. It has a dedicated USB port with dual function which allows the direct connection into bios when activated.
I doubt you'll have any luck with anything less.


----------



## tashcz

Thanks for the info though, I'm not so happy they left out those options, they probably aren't gonna be used by many but can really come in handy while testing etc, you can monitor your temps/voltage/usage in realtime without obstructing the screen. It can probably be used on a second monitor which would probably be the best choice, though I only have one now.

I think there is a workaround, software like HWMonitor can read those sensors, some of them must have a "server" or something or at least a low level access, building a client "reader" wouldn't be that hard. I'll try to find something that works.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Thanks for the info though, I'm not so happy they left out those options, they probably aren't gonna be used by many but can really come in handy while testing etc, you can monitor your temps/voltage/usage in realtime without obstructing the screen. It can probably be used on a second monitor which would probably be the best choice, though I only have one now.
> 
> I think there is a workaround, software like HWMonitor can read those sensors, some of them must have a "server" or something or at least a low level access, building a client "reader" wouldn't be that hard. I'll try to find something that works.


I believe hurricane is monitoring his using his logitech keyboard's display. He said it works well with HWInfo.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Guys,
> 
> Were any of you looking for a tool to monitor VCore/CPU freq/VRM temps, all sensors from the thermal radar on a remote PC?
> 
> I have a Win8 tablet on which I'd like to view all those remotely while in applications. Is that possible anyway? I though there was a "remote control" tool, not a remote desktop tool but a remote monitoring/controling tool.


Aida64 cost about $30.00. Will allow you to set up a web page for sensors. If you are good at networking you can make it work from anywhere.

Aida64 > preferences > LCD> remote sensor


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I believe hurricane is monitoring his using his logitech keyboard's display. He said it works well with HWInfo.


Yup, its working very good especially when gaming i like to have an eye on temps and such.

Some games like metroll or metro2033 you want to disable the logitech monitor software because for some reason it drops a huge amount of frames.

Also you want to disable the Asus EC sensor because it can cause problems too with this software. Other than that, its working great for me.


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Guys,
> 
> Were any of you looking for a tool to monitor VCore/CPU freq/VRM temps, all sensors from the thermal radar on a remote PC?
> 
> I have a Win8 tablet on which I'd like to view all those remotely while in applications. Is that possible anyway? I though there was a "remote control" tool, not a remote desktop tool but a remote monitoring/controling tool.


Shame you don't have an IPad and Aida...

http://matthewhodder.com/webdash/


----------



## tashcz

Hey guys,

Thank you for mentioning AIDA, I have the paid version of it







I totally forgot about it's options. Will try it out later.

I was also thinking of getting a Logitech G510s, but still considering whether I should buy it since I have a decent keyboard. So far I've invested already a lot into the PC in the last month, got a Sabertooth, CM Nepton 240m, CM Sentinel advance 2 with a CM controlRX, CM Stryker, a new 250GB 850 EVO, some other smaller stuff... I think I need to lay low with this stuff for a bit


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> Shame you don't have an IPad and Aida...
> 
> http://matthewhodder.com/webdash/


I have an iPhone 4S, but I think it's a too small screen for all the info :/


----------



## tashcz

Got it working!









AIDA has some great options to output to a bunch of other screens, most keyboard screens, etc... there's really a bunch of options and you should never regret those 30$.



Just need to make it look a bit nicer, though it shows the stuff I needed


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrs Bilko*
> 
> Picture??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah Bilko originally bought me an Asus M5 - but I didn't like the blue colours - and the extra warranty appealed to me on this.. I've been happy with my choice ever since..




I have a second card in.. in a transition state so the computer is in a box







will get a good pick when its ALIVE again


----------



## Xylonjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Thank you for mentioning AIDA, I have the paid version of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I totally forgot about it's options. Will try it out later.
> 
> I was also thinking of getting a Logitech G510s, but still considering whether I should buy it since I have a decent keyboard. So far I've invested already a lot into the PC in the last month, got a Sabertooth, CM Nepton 240m, CM Sentinel advance 2 with a CM controlRX, CM Stryker, a new 250GB 850 EVO, some other smaller stuff... I think I need to lay low with this stuff for a bit


Sounds like me....I have gone a little hog wild spending money upgrading my PC. I started off buying a newish 7950 which then lead to a new processor (FX-8320E), motherboard (Sabertooth 990FX), 16GB memory kit, Case (Obsidian 700D), AIO water cooler (CM Glacer 240L), 256Gb SSD, and tons of other case fans and accessories.

It's become quite an addiction lately.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylonjay*
> 
> Sounds like me....I have gone a little hog wild spending money upgrading my PC. I started off buying a newish 7950 which then lead to a new processor (FX-8320E), motherboard (Sabertooth 990FX), 16GB memory kit, Case (Obsidian 700D), AIO water cooler (CM Glacer 240L), 256Gb SSD, and tons of other case fans and accessories.
> 
> It's become quite an addiction lately.


----------



## Xylonjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*


So true.


----------



## owldo

Hello all, I'm new to overclockers and just got 2 sabertooth boards and 2 AMD FX8350's that I will be putting together and I want to join the owners club and take advantage of the knowledge here!


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owlo*
> 
> Hello all, I'm new to overclockers and just got 2 sabertooth boards and 2 AMD FX8350's that I will be putting together and I want to join the owners club and take advantage of the knowledge here!


Welcome!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owlo*
> 
> Hello all, I'm new to overclockers and just got 2 sabertooth boards and 2 AMD FX8350's that I will be putting together and I want to join the owners club and take advantage of the knowledge here!


Welcome.

Shoot a question and the regulars will chime in.









Do visit the main Vishera Thread as well. It's a collection of very knowledgeable and helpful individuals.

Just gotta shoot this up, What's are you using to cool those chips?


----------



## owldo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Welcome.
> 
> Shoot a question and the regulars will chime in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do visit the main Vishera Thread as well. It's a collection of very knowledgeable and helpful individuals.
> 
> Just gotta shoot this up, What's are you using to cool those chips?


*I'll be using the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO.*


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owlo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Welcome.
> 
> Shoot a question and the regulars will chime in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do visit the main Vishera Thread as well. It's a collection of very knowledgeable and helpful individuals.
> 
> Just gotta shoot this up, What's are you using to cool those chips?
> 
> 
> 
> *I'll be using the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO.*
Click to expand...

NOT AGAIN!!!!!









JK, there are better options just saying. Esp if you're considering pushing these chip's potential.


----------



## Mega Man

better question what are you looking for a OC ?


----------



## owldo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> NOT AGAIN!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JK, there are better options just saying. Esp if you're considering pushing these chip's potential.


Yeah I was just trying to get the ball rolling and get the boards up and running. Initial expense for 2 of these is high with peripherals, SSD's, PS, Video card, and 16 gb's of RAM each. What alternative cooler's do you recommend ?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owlo*
> 
> Yeah I was just trying to get the ball rolling and get the boards up and running. Initial expense for 2 of these is high with peripherals, SSD's, PS, Video card, and 16 gb's of RAM each. What alternative cooler's do you recommend ?


You might wanna answer this:
I
I
V
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> better question what are you looking for a OC ?


I'd go for Dual - Towers at least. Like the D14 or D15 from Noctua and the like. Or go solid 240mm AIO. For maybe around 4.8GHz or more if you get lucky.

5GHz are a little reserved for the custom cooling crowd but not a total guarantee.

Saberkitty btw, is a very good board for extreme OC's.


----------



## Xylonjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owlo*
> 
> Hello all, I'm new to overclockers and just got 2 sabertooth boards and 2 AMD FX8350's that I will be putting together and I want to join the owners club and take advantage of the knowledge here!


Welcome! This is a great community and you'll find a vast amount of information here and lots of helpful people.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You might wanna answer this:
> I
> I
> V
> I'd go for Dual - Towers at least. Like the D14 or D15 from Noctua and the like. Or go solid 240mm AIO. For maybe around 4.8GHz or more if you get lucky.
> 
> *5GHz are a little reserved for the custom cooling crowd but not a total guarantee.*
> 
> Saberkitty btw, is a very good board for extreme OC's.


^ that ... although I've seen some in my 5ghz 24/7 club that made it on air and closed loops.


----------



## owldo

Don't know what I'm looking for OC wise, just gonna play it by ear after I get it running and then give it some gas!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *owlo*
> 
> Don't know what I'm looking for OC wise, just gonna play it by ear after I get it running and then give it some gas!


imo 4.8 it's the sweet spot but without better cooling you likely won't get there....from what I've seen with my two chips and others around 4.8 is great mix of performance/heat...they seem to get a new snappyness at 4.8...but if you're lucky you can get 4.6 but you'll probably need vrm fan and backside socket fan...as long as you don't expect the world from a 30 dollar cooler you'll be happy with it


----------



## miklkit

A 212? 4.5 ghz. Possibly 4.6 but doubtful for every day use. At 4.7 my 8370 on a Sabertooth needed more vcore than the 212 can handle. Methinks the 212 can only handle 1.4 vcore, possibly a little bit more. So really it is up to the 8350s to show how efficient they are.


----------



## owldo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> imo 4.8 it's the sweet spot but without better cooling you likely won't get there....from what I've seen with my two chips and others around 4.8 is great mix of performance/heat...they seem to get a new snappyness at 4.8...but if you're lucky you can get 4.6 but you'll probably need vrm fan and backside socket fan...as long as you don't expect the world from a 30 dollar cooler you'll be happy with it


OK then how about a Cooler Master Hyper 612 Ver.2


----------



## zila

When thinking about cooling a Vishera you have to be serious. For air cooling you have to have BIG AIR: Phanteks PH-TC14PE, Noctua NHD-15, Cryorig R1 Ultimate.

Above that are AIOs and Custom Water. The 212 is old and out of place in this line up. I wouldn't even look at one of those.

Some of these air coolers are as good as some of the AIOs out there. The best AIOs are going to be from Swiftech and the air coolers can't keep up with those.


----------



## Mega Man

you all keep saying the 212 sucks

i asked my question for a reason 212 =~4.4-4.6 which maybe enough for him/her

what if they only play a few games and mostly browse the internets !~

dont get me wrong i am all for overkill ( seriously have you seen my rigs ? ) BUT WHAT IF HE DOESNT WANT/NEED/ HAVE ANY WILL TO GO FOR 4.8-5?

that is key !

that is why i asked, the 212 is fine for low ocs or even underclocking/undervolting ! i may be using one ina free nas, that or a 140x idk yet


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you all keep saying the 212 sucks
> 
> i asked my question for a reason 212 =~4.4-4.6 which maybe enough for him/her
> 
> what if they only play a few games and mostly browse the internets !~
> 
> dont get me wrong i am all for overkill ( seriously have you seen my rigs ? ) BUT WHAT IF HE DOESNT WANT/NEED/ HAVE ANY WILL TO GO FOR 4.8-5?
> 
> that is key !
> 
> that is why i asked, the 212 is fine for low ocs or even underclocking/undervolting ! i may be using one ina free nas, that or a 140x idk yet


Truth....and ive done that, 4.6Ghz on a 212x max temps was 50c.


----------



## mus1mus

I have no objections @Mega Man @Sgt Bilko

But with these chips' variation, you gotta understand, a 212 might not cut it. Might, is the word. I believe my 8370E can be tamed air cooled as well. Maybe even up to 1.5 or 5GHz on 20C ambient. But I truly believe I got lucky on the chips' heat production.


----------



## zila

I didn't mean to upset anyone, I was speaking from my own experience. Neither one of my Vishera's were cooled well with a 212. Especially during this time of year. Granted my chips are older ones. They are heaters. The only air coolers that have worked fairly well for them are the ones that I mentioned.

I was just trying to give good info and to steer someone to a more enjoyable experience. From what I've read most of the folks here have had pretty much the same experience with that little cooler as I have.


----------



## Mega Man

i have yet to see any 8xxx/9xxx that can not be cooled by a 212, it is better then the OEM HS

granted i am NOT TALKING ABOUT stock speeds for a 9xxx but clocked at the same speeds as a 8350


----------



## Xylonjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you all keep saying the 212 sucks
> 
> i asked my question for a reason 212 =~4.4-4.6 which maybe enough for him/her
> 
> what if they only play a few games and mostly browse the internets !~
> 
> dont get me wrong i am all for overkill ( seriously have you seen my rigs ? ) BUT WHAT IF HE DOESNT WANT/NEED/ HAVE ANY WILL TO GO FOR 4.8-5?
> 
> that is key !
> 
> that is why i asked, the 212 is fine for low ocs or even underclocking/undervolting ! i may be using one ina free nas, that or a 140x idk yet


The Hyper 212 is more than capable of cooling the 83xx series chips up to a point. If you don't plan going any higher than 4.6 on your overclock the 212 is hard to beat.


----------



## Anders333

Hi all. I'm not overclocker yet, but i have Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 and FX 9590. I want to join the club where I can learn more about overclocking and my hardware


----------



## mus1mus

You came to right place.

Welcome.

And to get you initiated, here the basics:

1. Good Cooling - The cooler, the better.
2. Good PSU
3. Patience
4. Just ask.









And yep. follow the link below to create your rig.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig/0_50


----------



## Anders333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You came to right place.
> 
> Welcome.
> 
> And to get you initiated, here the basics:
> 
> 1. Good Cooling - The cooler, the better.
> 2. Good PSU
> 3. Patience
> 4. Just ask.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yep. follow the link below to create your rig.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig/0_50


Thanks. I'm going to create my rig


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anders333*
> 
> Hi all. I'm not overclocker yet, but i have Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 and FX 9590. I want to join the club where I can learn more about overclocking and my hardware


Welcome! Let us know if you have any questions


----------



## Kalistoval

So since I got some new ram I was wondering, when I go into the ram timing my Corsair http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233585. They have a xmp profile thats 11-13-13-31-44-T1 300ns at 1.65v. What I'm trying to find out is when I set T1 The bios is showing up as T2 regardless of my forced setting. Is this normal or might it be a bios issue, perhaps a bios compatibility. I am on the 0803 bios.


----------



## mus1mus

XMP is for Intel. They are tested to work with an Intel platform. So things might be screwy when you use it with AMD.

Can you force the timings? On the Tweaking page, Overclocking Tuner, set it to DOCP Profile 0. Or do it manually using Manual.


----------



## Kalistoval

I do everything manual, I just noticed that every now and then during my reboots as I have been testing higher clocks and voltages I noticed during IBTAVX my gflops change a tad bit to some the gflops might mean nothing but for me it shows the cause and effect of varibles when ever I change them. So what I have noticed is that some times the T1/T2 option changes even If I set it to force T1. Clearly I am not setting it to auto nor T2 but the bios insists it run at T2 but not always. I was just wondering if anyone else experienced this before.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kalistoval*
> 
> I do everything manual, I just noticed that every now and then during my reboots as I have been testing higher clocks and voltages I noticed during IBTAVX my gflops change a tad bit to some the gflops might mean nothing but for me it shows the cause and effect of varibles when ever I change them. So what I have noticed is that some times the T1/T2 option changes even If I set it to force T1. Clearly I am not setting it to auto nor T2 but the bios insists it run at T2 but not always. I was just wondering if anyone else experienced this before.


Bad OC maybe. Overclocking failures at post.

IBT GFlops mean nothing. Unless it's all over the place, I wouldnt worry a bit.


----------



## Kalistoval

I'm bout to check out that docp and its set at 11-13-13-31-46-2t-1.65v 2400mhz xmp is 11-13-13-31-44-1t 1.65v 2400mhz. Your ava is hypnotic lol


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kalistoval*
> 
> I'm bout to check out that docp and its set at 11-13-13-31-46-2t-1.65v 2400mhz xmp is 11-13-13-31-44-1t 1.65v 2400mhz. Your ava is hypnotic lol


Is that by changing the memory profile as well?. Not so sure if it happens to my Dom Plats. But yeah, a couple changes here and there won't hurt.








check the movie.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Is that by changing the memory profile as well?. Not so sure if it happens to my Dom Plats. But yeah, a couple changes here and there won't hurt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> check the movie.


yeah, I asked once... where did you get that ava from... I must have missed it if you answered..


----------



## mus1mus




----------



## godiegogo214

Hey wats up guys so I just watercooled my machine with a custom loop. Was wondering if there are any good guides to OC an fx8350 cpu? I see everywhere but the instruction are all over the place. Thnx for the help


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godiegogo214*
> 
> Hey wats up guys so I just watercooled my machine with a custom loop. Was wondering if there are any good guides to OC an fx8350 cpu? I see everywhere but the instruction are all over the place. Thnx for the help


u can try this

Guide


----------



## Xylonjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> u can try this
> 
> Guide


^^^This^^^


----------



## godiegogo214

@gertruude @Xylonjay thank you for the help guys.

Which is better for over locking using the multiplier or the fsb?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godiegogo214*
> 
> @gertruude @Xylonjay thank you for the help guys.
> 
> Which is better for over locking using the multiplier or the fsb?


multiplier is easier starting out...you dont have to do any math


----------



## godiegogo214

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> multiplier is easier starting out...you dont have to do any math


thanks for the info.....going at it so far survived 4.5 15 stress....super worried lol


----------



## Xylonjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godiegogo214*
> 
> @gertruude @Xylonjay thank you for the help guys.
> 
> Which is better for over locking using the multiplier or the fsb?


I would recommend overclocking via multiplier/voltage.


----------



## Xylonjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godiegogo214*
> 
> thanks for the info.....going at it so far survived 4.5 15 stress....super worried lol


Are you using an aftermarket cooler? If so, you should be able to hit at least 4.6 on air before hitting the thermal limit.


----------



## godiegogo214

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylonjay*
> 
> Are you using an aftermarket cooler? If so, you should be able to hit at least 4.6 on air before hitting the thermal limit.


custom water cooling loop just updated my avatar....i'm at 4.6 ghz now 64C on the socket 47C on the core....i know the limits are 70C on the socket and 62C on the core.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godiegogo214*
> 
> custom water cooling loop just updated my avatar....i'm at 4.6 ghz now 64C on the socket 47C on the core....i know the limits are 70C on the socket and 62C on the core.


add a fan for the VRM heatsink. Then at the back. You should be seeing a lot of degrees off that socket temp.

And since you are on custom water, keep pushing it.


----------



## godiegogo214

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> add a fan for the VRM heatsink. Then at the back. You should be seeing a lot of degrees off that socket temp.
> 
> And since you are on custom water, keep pushing it.


shooting for 4.8 ghz what are the prime95 settings for a long term test?


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godiegogo214*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Xylonjay*
> 
> Are you using an aftermarket cooler? If so, you should be able to hit at least 4.6 on air before hitting the thermal limit.
> 
> 
> 
> custom water cooling loop just updated my avatar....i'm at 4.6 ghz now 64C on the socket 47C on the core....i know the limits are 70C on the socket and 62C on the core.
Click to expand...

70c socket and 70c core are max temps.

And yeah, listen to Mus on this....one of the few thats gotten close to my scores on a CVF-Z


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *godiegogo214*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *godiegogo214*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Xylonjay*
> 
> Are you using an aftermarket cooler? If so, you should be able to hit at least 4.6 on air before hitting the thermal limit.
> 
> 
> 
> custom water cooling loop just updated my avatar....i'm at 4.6 ghz now 64C on the socket 47C on the core....i know the limits are 70C on the socket and 62C on the core.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> add a fan for the VRM heatsink. Then at the back. You should be seeing a lot of degrees off that socket temp.
> 
> And since you are on custom water, keep pushing it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> shooting for 4.8 ghz what are the prime95 settings for a long term test?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 70c socket and 70c core are max temps.
> 
> And yeah, listen to Mus on this....one of the few thats gotten close to my scores on a CVF-Z
Click to expand...

Don't make me blush Sarge.









I'm actually thinking pulling that CHVFZ. And expose it to a cool room.









@godiegogo214
Prime Blend for overall stability. Or IBT AVX Custom with up to 80% RAM Usage that can run for 20+ passes should be good. But since you are currently on Multi, IBT at Very High will do.

Tip:
Do find your max multi only OC within 20C below the limit in Temps considering the fan suggestion on the VRMs and the Backside of the Mobo behind the Socket. 10 runs of IBT at Very high for quickies.

Once you are there, show us what you got and ....
We will help you push it further.







As well as tuning your baby for overall greatness.
Includes RAM Tuning, CPU-NB and most likely, competitive Benchmark scores.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *godiegogo214*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *godiegogo214*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Xylonjay*
> 
> Are you using an aftermarket cooler? If so, you should be able to hit at least 4.6 on air before hitting the thermal limit.
> 
> 
> 
> custom water cooling loop just updated my avatar....i'm at 4.6 ghz now 64C on the socket 47C on the core....i know the limits are 70C on the socket and 62C on the core.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> add a fan for the VRM heatsink. Then at the back. You should be seeing a lot of degrees off that socket temp.
> 
> And since you are on custom water, keep pushing it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> shooting for 4.8 ghz what are the prime95 settings for a long term test?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 70c socket and 70c core are max temps.
> 
> And yeah, listen to Mus on this....one of the few thats gotten close to my scores on a CVF-Z
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Don't make me blush Sarge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm actually thinking pulling that CHVFZ. And expose it to a cool room.
Click to expand...

I'll be curious to see what you can do with it, i just cracked 10.6k Firestrike physics on the weekend http://www.3dmark.com/fs/5357870 so ive found my multi limit for benching. Now im slowly going to start tuning up fsb and see where that leads.

And that'll get put on hold as im ordering a Fury X this week for the wife ( I just get to play around with it first







)


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> I'll be curious to see what you can do with it, i just cracked 10.6k Firestrike physics on the weekend http://www.3dmark.com/fs/5357870 so ive found my multi limit for benching. Now im slowly going to start tuning up fsb and see where that leads.
> 
> And that'll get put on hold as im ordering a Fury X this week for the wife ( I just get to play around with it first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


VERY NICE!

Should I give you a target to smash?









10842 Physics on Single

The 290 can easily trump this Overall Score. 14K Graphics is too easy for it now on the new Driver.









BTW I wonder if Windows 10 really has some tricks. We'll see in a bit.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> I'll be curious to see what you can do with it, i just cracked 10.6k Firestrike physics on the weekend http://www.3dmark.com/fs/5357870 so ive found my multi limit for benching. Now im slowly going to start tuning up fsb and see where that leads.
> 
> And that'll get put on hold as im ordering a Fury X this week for the wife ( I just get to play around with it first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> VERY NICE!
> 
> Should I give you a target to smash?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10842 Physics on Single
> 
> The 290 can easily trump this Overall Score. 14K Graphics is too easy for it now on the new Driver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW I wonder if Windows 10 really has some tricks. We'll see in a bit.
Click to expand...

Man i really need more rad space hehe









Ill see what happens over the weekend, I've got a couple of reviews to finish up and some cooler testing to do.
If that doesnt eat up my time then ill give it a go









.....and i forgot i was in the saberkitty thread...sorry guys!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> I'll be curious to see what you can do with it, i just cracked 10.6k Firestrike physics on the weekend http://www.3dmark.com/fs/5357870 so ive found my multi limit for benching. Now im slowly going to start tuning up fsb and see where that leads.
> 
> And that'll get put on hold as im ordering a Fury X this week for the wife ( I just get to play around with it first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> VERY NICE!
> 
> Should I give you a target to smash?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10842 Physics on Single
> 
> The 290 can easily trump this Overall Score. 14K Graphics is too easy for it now on the new Driver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW I wonder if Windows 10 really has some tricks. We'll see in a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Man i really need more rad space hehe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ill see what happens over the weekend, I've got a couple of reviews to finish up and some cooler testing to do.
> If that doesnt eat up my time then ill give it a go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....and i forgot i was in the saberkitty thread...sorry guys!
Click to expand...

Just 2 360s here. But at 17C ambient.

The kitty loves it. CHVFZ may smother it.

And I need a RAM that can push it a bit further too.







But no more pitstops. No more Spending til I can get them to become proper computers.

I need a new case for X99 too. I'm afraid I will have to eat what I am saying about the 900D and grab one. I have been too lazy to even work on the Scratch Build.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> I'll be curious to see what you can do with it, i just cracked 10.6k Firestrike physics on the weekend http://www.3dmark.com/fs/5357870 so ive found my multi limit for benching. Now im slowly going to start tuning up fsb and see where that leads.
> 
> And that'll get put on hold as im ordering a Fury X this week for the wife ( I just get to play around with it first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> VERY NICE!
> 
> Should I give you a target to smash?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10842 Physics on Single
> 
> The 290 can easily trump this Overall Score. 14K Graphics is too easy for it now on the new Driver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW I wonder if Windows 10 really has some tricks. We'll see in a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Man i really need more rad space hehe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ill see what happens over the weekend, I've got a couple of reviews to finish up and some cooler testing to do.
> If that doesnt eat up my time then ill give it a go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....and i forgot i was in the saberkitty thread...sorry guys!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Just 2 360s here. But at 17C ambient.
> 
> The kitty loves it. CHVFZ may smother it.
> 
> And I need a RAM that can push it a bit further too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But no more pitstops. No more Spending til I can get them to become proper computers.
> 
> I need a new case for X99 too. I'm afraid I will have to eat what I am saying about the 900D and grab one. I have been too lazy to even work on the Scratch Build.
Click to expand...

Im only running 2 EX240's









I was looking between a 900D and a TT Core X9 but the Enthoo Primo Ultimate has my attention now. I want to move up to 2x 480mm UT60's so i dont have alot of options.

And time yeah....never enough time or money


----------



## godiegogo214

@Sgt Bilko Thnx for the tip I actually got to fast stress it up to 4.8 but then started blue screening ( sad face screening) so I backed off and reset the bios


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godiegogo214*
> 
> @Sgt Bilko Thnx for the tip I actually got to fast stress it up to 4.8 but then started blue screening ( sad face screening) so I backed off and reset the bios


You can add a bit more Voltage if you are still within bounds on temps. That's why multi OC was advised for a start. You only need to worry about the Vcore most of the time.

Note, Voltage wall happens around 4.8 GHz. It's the point where jumping to the next multiplier requires much higher Voltage to add than previous.


----------



## Metalcrack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godiegogo214*
> 
> @gertruude @Xylonjay thank you for the help guys.
> 
> Which is better for over locking using the multiplier or the fsb?


Combo of both to get max potential. May be able to do 4.8 but not 4.9 GHz..... using FSB you can do 4.84 stable (all for example).....higher the better!


----------



## godiegogo214

I see yeah I heard that fsb overclocking provides better single core performance I always stayed on the thresholds except one time the vcore got to 80 I was always at 65 on the socket 47 on the core (Celsius) gotta find a stylish method to place fan on vrms


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godiegogo214*
> 
> I see yeah I heard that fsb overclocking provides better single core performance I always stayed on the thresholds except one time the vcore got to 80 I was always at 65 on the socket 47 on the core (Celsius) gotta find a stylish method to place fan on vrms


a couple of people here have created brackets to hold a fan to blow over vrms...you wouldn't like mine it's a 120 that doesn't match the color scheme jammed between the rear fan and cpu block


----------



## godiegogo214

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> a couple of people here have created brackets to hold a fan to blow over vms...you wouldn't like mine it's a 120 that doesn't match the color scheme jammed between the rear fan and cpu block


Yeah was thinking of putting a mem cooler like jerry rig but dunno if I have clearance from top fan was looking here does it matter if virtualization is on I want to run vrms on my machine


----------



## Recursion

My rig draws 105-115W idle and 150-165W with a video playback @ full hd resolution. Is 105W idle not too much? The Fx-6100 is only 95W TDP? Is this the mainboard? I have a 500W gold rated power supply, a 2TB 3.5" disk and 1TB 2.5" disk, 8GB Ram and a custom watercooling (2 modified AIO watercooler and a XSPC 420 reservoir and pump) and 4x140mm fans and 7x 120mm fans. I have enabled all power saving in bios but I disables turbo core and I use a mild overclock (FSB 250MHZ) together with undervolt. I also tried stock settings to no avail (I didn't check everything!). My htpc with a Biostar AMD 870 chipset, 750W bronte rated power supply and a Phenom B50 draws only 65-70W when playing a video. It has 1x 80mm fan, 1x 90mm fan and a 60mm fan, 1x 2.5" 320GB disk and a 3TB 3.5" disk and 4GB ram. I don't how much it idles! What are your power draw?


----------



## 4kallday

I've got a white themed build and while I've been able to match most things to that scheme but one thing I can't match is this MOBO. Does anyone have any tips on painting it without killing it or preferably is there any way to mod the thermal armor from another board to fit it? Thanks .


----------



## Vrbaa

Hi guys, I have a problem and I'm sure you guys can help me.









I have ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 and problem with CPU_FAN header. My cpu cooler is Noctua NH-D14 and when I connect fans to CPU_FAN header, it spins at max speed and I can't control their speed in bios or ASUS software in windows. In all other headers (except CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT) I can control all fans and there is no problems.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> Hi guys, I have a problem and I'm sure you guys can help me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 and problem with CPU_FAN header. My cpu cooler is Noctua NH-D14 and when I connect fans to CPU_FAN header, it spins at max speed and I can't control their speed in bios or ASUS software in windows. In all other headers (except CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT) I can control all fans and there is no problems.


speed is controlled by pwm on those two headers if they don't get pwm signal they run at max speed...I was thinking noctua fans should be pwm on that cooler...I dunno someone here knows 100% but not i


----------



## Vrbaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> speed is controlled by pwm on those two headers if they don't get pwm signal they run at max speed...I was thinking noctua fans should be pwm on that cooler...I dunno someone here knows 100% but not i


These noctua fans are DC/3Pin fans


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> These noctua fans are DC/3Pin fans


Aha! The early D14s had non PWM fans but the latest ones do have PWM fans. If you want the fans on the D14 to be PWM you must replace them. There are lots of fans that will fit. What is your favorite color?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> Hi guys, I have a problem and I'm sure you guys can help me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 and problem with CPU_FAN header. My cpu cooler is Noctua NH-D14 and when I connect fans to CPU_FAN header, it spins at max speed and I can't control their speed in bios or ASUS software in windows. In all other headers (except CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT) I can control all fans and there is no problems.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> These noctua fans are DC/3Pin fans


Have you tried turning it from PWM Mode to DC Mode?


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> Hi guys, I have a problem and I'm sure you guys can help me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 and problem with CPU_FAN header. My cpu cooler is Noctua NH-D14 and when I connect fans to CPU_FAN header, it spins at max speed and I can't control their speed in bios or ASUS software in windows. In all other headers (except CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT) I can control all fans and there is no problems.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> These noctua fans are DC/3Pin fans
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Have you tried turning it from PWM Mode to DC Mode?
Click to expand...

^ What he said


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> My rig draws 105-115W idle and 150-165W with a video playback @ full hd resolution. Is 105W idle not too much? The Fx-6100 is only 95W TDP? Is this the mainboard? I have a 500W gold rated power supply, a 2TB 3.5" disk and 1TB 2.5" disk, 8GB Ram and a custom watercooling (2 modified AIO watercooler and a XSPC 420 reservoir and pump) and 4x140mm fans and 7x 120mm fans. I have enabled all power saving in bios but I disables turbo core and I use a mild overclock (FSB 250MHZ) together with undervolt. I also tried stock settings to no avail (I didn't check everything!). My htpc with a Biostar AMD 870 chipset, 750W bronte rated power supply and a Phenom B50 draws only 65-70W when playing a video. It has 1x 80mm fan, 1x 90mm fan and a 60mm fan, 1x 2.5" 320GB disk and a 3TB 3.5" disk and 4GB ram. I don't how much it idles! What are your power draw?


95w tdp is not power used it is heat generated ! very very different

also not adding in fans or pumps and many other things are different !~ between the rigs
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> Hi guys, I have a problem and I'm sure you guys can help me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 and problem with CPU_FAN header. My cpu cooler is Noctua NH-D14 and when I connect fans to CPU_FAN header, it spins at max speed and I can't control their speed in bios or ASUS software in windows. In all other headers (except CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT) I can control all fans and there is no problems.
> 
> 
> 
> speed is controlled by pwm on those two headers if they don't get pwm signal they run at max speed...I was thinking noctua fans should be pwm on that cooler...I dunno someone here knows 100% but not i
Click to expand...

yea you can change from pwm to voltage in bios


----------



## Vrbaa

With old motherboard Asus M4A89GTD PRO/USB3 I can do that, but with Sabertooth I haven't that option. :S


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> With old motherboard Asus M4A89GTD PRO/USB3 I can do that, but with Sabertooth I haven't that option. :S


There should be.

My Kitty is not set-up but show a screen shot of the Monitoring tab > Fan Control and we will point that out for you. Named DC Mode IIRC.









Should be on the bottom of the voltage monitors.


----------



## Vrbaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> There should be.
> 
> My Kitty is not set-up but show a screen shot of the Monitoring tab > Fan Control and we will point that out for you. Named DC Mode IIRC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be on the bottom of the voltage monitors.


Nope, this mobo haven't option like that.









Here is full screenshot of Monitoring tab, fans are attached to CPU_FAN just for screenshot, and of course they are spinning at full speed all time


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> Nope, this mobo haven't option like that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is full screenshot of Monitoring tab, fans are attached to CPU_FAN just for screenshot, and of course they are spinning at full speed all time
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Check the Pull Down on *Enabled*.


----------



## Vrbaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Check the Pull Down on *Enabled*.


And there are 4 options: Silent, Standard, Turbo and Manual.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> And there are 4 options: Silent, Standard, Turbo and Manual.


Put it to Manual
Really sorry my Kitty is out of service.
If I am right, Manual is your best bet. There should be options for it too.









And yeah, my X99 is acting up too.


----------



## Vrbaa

Thank you man but no option in manual.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> Thank you man but no option in manual.


Sorry for that mate. Somebody else can chime in to confirm this.

Anyway, if you are interested, a user in here posted a how-to on Speedfan. It works great with the board. You might wanna check or search for that.









Edit: Found it.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-amd-owners-club/7350_50#post_22782127


----------



## Morza

Hi guys, recently finished my build. Now I'm worried about my temps. I have amd 8350, noctua nh d-14 cooler (also 1 front panel, and 1 back fan, 2x8GB dominator platinum ram, my psu is corsair cx750, these temps are when just normally browsing internet, ambient temp is 20C. cpu temp sometimes goes up to 40C when just browsing, but more I'm concerned about VCORE temps its around 40C and sometimes goes up to to 50 when browsing. After I played battlefield4 for about 30min, these power control heatsinks were so hot, felt like I could fry eggs on them. the only alteration I did was fan settings as you see(spins around 1000rpm), other settings and bios are at default. So besides, maybe you could advice about some bios adjustment ? I don't want any overclocking, my goal is lower temps, and stable workstation. I am not a gamer, but sometimes I play. I do more 3D modeling, but my gpu does its job when rendering. please have a look at the pic. thanks


----------



## godiegogo214

My 8350 runs like 30 33 on idle interested to see input on this


----------



## miklkit

More, and more powerful case fans will help overall temperatures. Temperatures can spike when browsing and is normal, but something is letting it get hotter than it should at stock clocks with that D14.


----------



## Morza

thats what Im concerned about, what causes that...


----------



## miklkit

The overall heat? Insufficient air flow in and out of the case. The hot air from the D14 is just circling around inside the case. What case and case fans are you using? Can you fill out a sig rig? The rigbuilder is in the top right hand corner of this page.


----------



## Morza

I am more concerned about vcore (power control) temp. heat inside doesn't circulate as I have no side panel on. there is one front panel fan (push) and back fan (pull).


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morza*
> 
> I am more concerned about vcore (power control) temp. heat inside doesn't circulate as I have no side panel on. there is one front panel fan (push) and back fan (pull).


No side panel means no direct airflow, you need to direct the flow of air through the case.

I know it's overdone but.....



You can put fans on the VRMs...


Also you can put a fan at the rear of the mobo to cool the back of the socket and the rear of the VRMs.


Airflow is your main aim....


----------



## miklkit

Morza has air cooling and those fans might not fit. He needs case air flow. The best way to cool the VRMs is to lower the center fan on the D14 so it is blowing air under the fins directly at the VRMs.

Pic time.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Morza has air cooling and those fans might not fit. He needs case air flow. The best way to cool the VRMs is to lower the center fan on the D14 so it is blowing air under the fins directly at the VRMs.
> 
> Pic time.


I'm thinking a remount might be in order as well....seems high for idle temps...shouldn't be overheating vrms at stock....but a fan on back of socket and some directed airflow will help...you can also find smaller fans that will fit with that cooler installed


----------



## mus1mus

Manually set up voltages. Auto is plain bad.


----------



## Morza

miklkit. I have it lowered :]


----------



## Morza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Manually set up voltages. Auto is plain bad.


How can I do that ? Im quite noob about bios.


----------



## Mike The Owl

@morza

Maybe some small fans over the VRM , Northbridge and southbridge will do, I started off using 30 and 40mm small fans hot glued to mine ....




That was on my old gigabyte board

Many moons ago I tried to start a thread on this

http://www.overclock.net/t/1510126/cooling-vrms-with-a-fan/0_20#post_22783891

But it died a death as no one was really interested in posting their ideas...shame really as there are so many different answers I've seen posted on overclock.net.


----------



## mus1mus

First, if you wanna run the system on stock clocks and cool,

1. Go to the BIOS, hit "Del" after powering ON the PC.
2. You might need to hit "F7" on the first BIOS screen to enter the "Advanced" settings.
3. AI tuner? Can't remember.
4. Select DOCP if your RAM has an XMP Profile.
5. AMD Turbo Core should be Disabled.
6. Press F10 to save the settings. It will go on rebooting. So continue pressing "Del" til you are back on the BIOS
7. Access the Advanced menu again, And scroll down to the Voltages section. You will now see the VCore at Stock Value or VID.
8. Set the Vcore to match that VID Value from AUTO.
9. Go to Advanced Power Management or Whatever that's called. As ling as you can see LLC options for the CPU.
10. Set LLC to High or Normal. F10. Boot back to Windows.

If you find these difficult, but you can access the BIOS, just ask these guys (active members in this thread) for further help.

They are very helpful. Unlike me, who doesn't have access to the Kitty at the moment, they'll be able to point out the right screens and settings for you.

Off note: Consider their suggestions on Air Flow. It will be much useful if you wanna keep things cool.


----------



## Mike The Owl

@Mus1mus

"They are very helpful. Unlike me, who doesn't have access to the Kitty at the moment, they'll be able to point out the right screens and settings for you."

I'm going to get awfully Brit here...

You are one of the chaps that makes this thread work... so no more "Unlike me" ,,, you may of borked your kitty but your desire to help others who are in a dizzy with settings e.t.c is one of the things I admire about you... so no more underestimating yourself.. by the way your a lazy bastard who should be building a case by hand which will give me ideas for building my own,... now get back to work


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> @Mus1mus
> 
> "They are very helpful. Unlike me, who doesn't have access to the Kitty at the moment, they'll be able to point out the right screens and settings for you."
> 
> I'm going to get awfully Brit here...
> 
> You are one of the chaps that makes this thread work... so no more "Unlike me" ,,, you may of borked your kitty but your desire to help others who are in a dizzy with settings e.t.c is one of the things I admire about you... so no more underestimating yourself.. by the way your a lazy bastard who should be building a case by hand which will give me ideas for building my own,... now get back to work


Is that the best of Brit in you?









The case will resume works eventually. Since toying the idea if a 900D to ease things up, I took time to ask the community about it. And it seems bleak for my need. (Rads to fit into it). Plus a seller who doubted selling the case to me







. So yeah. I will be back on it soon.


----------



## Mike The Owl

@mus1mus

How about something like this..

http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Pro-M.html

Should do you for rad space..


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> @mus1mus
> 
> How about something like this..
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Pro-M.html
> 
> Should do you for rad space..


Not available locally, sad to say.

Primo does look bauce with 2x480 indeed.


----------



## Mike The Owl

@mus1mus.

According to Phanteks website their agent in the Philippines is JTP extreme

http://jtp-xtremetech.com/contact

Give them a try


----------



## mus1mus

Thanks mate. Gotta check them.

Very nice of you, I should say!.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> @mus1mus
> 
> How about something like this..
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Pro-M.html
> 
> Should do you for rad space..
> 
> 
> 
> Not available locally, sad to say.
> 
> Primo does look bauce with 2x480 indeed.
Click to expand...

I'm looking at the Primo Ultimate for my next case, good size, room for a couple of 480 rads and looks great to boot


----------



## Mega Man

and---- its not a tt !~

this is more or less the case i am waiting to ship


----------



## mus1mus

TF You mean?

Shippin it?

Thanks Man, pm'd you the address.


----------



## Mega Man

hahaha the wait is getting to me though soon it wont, baby due soon


----------



## mus1mus

I can't imagine the anxiety shipping something so precious to me like that (if pre-built)

And congrats man. For both joys.


----------



## Mega Man

it isnt it comes flat packed, first CL i bought new

next up the peds !~


----------



## mus1mus

Ohh. That's good to know.

Thought you ordered it as pictured already set-up.









What are you building in there btw? Multi-System?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and---- its not a tt !~
> 
> this is more or less the case i am waiting to ship


Spoilers Mega, spoilers









No seriously, congrats man for both









I assume we will get an update soon on what components are in that enormous case?


----------



## miklkit

Dayum! How many cases of beer does that refrigerator hold?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and---- its not a tt !~
> 
> this is more or less the case i am waiting to ship
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm thinking that case is nicer than my car.....


----------



## warpuck

That may require a forklift to take delivery


----------



## Mega Man

the system is mums the word, but it will be a long long while, gotta baby to spoil first

for those interested i plan on at least 3 peds will depend on space but up to 5 !




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and---- its not a tt !~
> 
> this is more or less the case i am waiting to ship
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking that case is nicer than my car.....
Click to expand...

maybe, but save up and work hard and you could own one, i love CL and recommend them second hand is quite reasonable !~
i got my m8 for 250 idr my th10 but i think it was about the same !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> That may require a forklift to take delivery


nah it is only 70lbs

AL not steel


----------



## DMills

hey guys, i got a quick quesiton I just need confirmation on:
I've got the GEN3 board and I'm using a Swiftech MCP35x with the pwm cable plugged into CPU FAN

I can't use speedfan to control the cpu fan so the pump is currently just always running at 100% and I'm trying to fix that
I'm thinking I just need to plug the pump into CPU OPT and then stick a random fan into CPU FAN (or disable the no fan error in bios), am I missing anything?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMills*
> 
> hey guys, i got a quick quesiton I just need confirmation on:
> I've got the GEN3 board and I'm using a Swiftech MCP35x with the pwm cable plugged into CPU FAN
> 
> I can't use speedfan to control the cpu fan so the pump is currently just always running at 100% and I'm trying to fix that
> I'm thinking I just need to plug the pump into CPU OPT and then stick a random fan into CPU FAN (or disable the no fan error in bios), am I missing anything?


What setting do you use for the fan header at the BIOS?

Might set it to Manual and Duty Control for app integration.


----------



## warpuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> What setting do you use for the fan header at the BIOS?
> 
> Might set it to Manual and Duty Control for app integration.


Maybe this will help

http://www.swiftech.org/Installation_guides/MaelstromV2-installation.pdf

Even with this hooked up as per diagram in the PDF in I can still hear the water splashing in the bay at idle. The up side is I don't need anything to tell me the pump is working and pushing coolant through a 140mm and a 280mm radiator. and circulating 1 liter of fluid 14 x a minute. Just one of those things they don't tell you about, I guess. Can not figure out how to slow it down without voiding the warranty either.. It don't bother me when I play Battlefield. I could put a wire wound resistor in the 12 volt power and drop it from 12 to 10 volts or so. If I could find one with right value The resistor fan power cables that came with the Noctua C14 quickly became smoke generators when I tried it.


----------



## godiegogo214

any of you guys know how to set up raid on this board? I go to the bios > sata config > set raid / Legacy rom > go to rom bios setup raid 0 with 2 ssds live one alone > boot windows 8 install > load raid drivers > windows doesn't pick up my array.....I swear this computer keeps insulting every little bit of knowledge i have of computers.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godiegogo214*
> 
> any of you guys know how to set up raid on this board? I go to the bios > sata config > set raid / Legacy rom > go to rom bios setup raid 0 with 2 ssds live one alone > boot windows 8 install > load raid drivers > windows doesn't pick up my array.....I swear this computer keeps insulting every little bit of knowledge i have of computers.


Haven't had issues here on 7 or 8. You using the first set of SATA ports and tried all the drivers off asus.com?


----------



## lilkuz2005

hey guys, i just installed windows 10 update on my old rig with the asus sabertooth 990fx motherboard, there isnt any driver support for windows 10 for this board, my usb ports dont work, i cant find any drivers that work, it looks like im going to have to downgrade back to win 7 x64 ultimate and wait it out


----------



## 4kallday

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Haven't had issues here on 7 or 8. You using the first set of SATA ports and tried all the drivers off asus.com?


Thankyou for posting this! I was thinking about upgrading soonish, I'll definitely wait it out now.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilkuz2005*
> 
> hey guys, i just installed windows 10 update on my old rig with the asus sabertooth 990fx motherboard, there isnt any driver support for windows 10 for this board, my usb ports dont work, i cant find any drivers that work, it looks like im going to have to downgrade back to win 7 x64 ultimate and wait it out


I didn't have that issue. Install from boot.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilkuz2005*
> 
> hey guys, i just installed windows 10 update on my old rig with the asus sabertooth 990fx motherboard, there isnt any driver support for windows 10 for this board, my usb ports dont work, i cant find any drivers that work, it looks like im going to have to downgrade back to win 7 x64 ultimate and wait it out


Sure there is AMD.com Motherboard driver. I did not have a problem with or without a driver for my USB.
http://support.amd.com/en-us/download/chipset?os=Windows+10+-+64


----------



## lilkuz2005

i just did the full fresh install and its working now, i will keep an eye on the asus support page for new drivers when they come out, if they come out lol


----------



## Archea47

Does anyone have an opinion or is there a consensus on the best/most stable for overclocking BIOS rev?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilkuz2005*
> 
> i just did the full fresh install and its working now, i will keep an eye on the asus support page for new drivers when they come out, if they come out lol


You don't actually need actually need anything from the current status of W10.

Just update the OS.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Does anyone have an opinion or is there a consensus on the best/most stable for overclocking BIOS rev?


The latest is.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> The latest is.


That's not what I wanted to hear









I'll wait till Daedalic is complete then and resume the OC'ing once there's a ton more cooling behind it


----------



## mus1mus

Took me to 5.2 solid.
5.3 semi
5.5 Benching all day clock.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Took me to 5.2 solid.
> 5.3 semi


Having a hard time getting back there

What happens when you put 1.7V in? I've never been braver than 1.68

EDIT: also, when above 1.65V, I regularly have to take the CMOS battery out to be able to boot again. I was going to do copper piping to the GPUs but I have to remove one to get at the CMOS (oh to have a Gen3 with a CMOS not under the GPUs) so I may just copy BNEG and do dual parallel softies down to the midplate


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Having a hard time getting back there
> 
> What happens when you put 1.7V in? I've never been braver than 1.68
> 
> EDIT: also, when above 1.65V, I regularly have to take the CMOS battery out to be able to boot again. I was going to do copper piping to the GPUs but I have to remove one to get at the CMOS (oh to have a Gen3 with a CMOS not under the GPUs) so I may just copy BNEG and do dual parallel softies down to the midplate


1.7 is a shut down for me. 3 Chips, all does the same thing. Even on 17C ambient.

Highest I can feed the chip is 1.65 with Ultra LLC. Or 1.67ish in Windows to Bench at 5.5.

Do you try the revert switch on the IO area? Or the CMOS clear pins? Make it easier if that can refresh your setting than taking off a few parts.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 1.7 is a shut down for me. 3 Chips, all does the same thing. Even on 17C ambient.
> 
> Highest I can feed the chip is 1.65 with Ultra LLC. Or 1.67ish in Windows to Bench at 5.5.
> 
> Do you try the revert switch on the IO area? Or the CMOS clear pins?


Which software are you using to change vcore in Windows?

Wasn't aware I could clear the CMOS without removing the battery. Might save me a whole lot of headache!

Anyone able to push their Sabertooth past 1.7V? Can the CHV do it?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> 1. Which software are you using to change vcore in Windows?
> 
> 2. Wasn't aware I could clear the CMOS without removing the battery. Might save me a whole lot of headache!
> 
> 3. Anyone able to push their Sabertooth past 1.7V? Can the CHV do it?


1. I'm just a BIOS guy.









2. There are 3 pins with a default position jumper near the USB headers labeled as CLRTC.


Spoiler: Circled for ya.







3. I believe @F3ERS 2 ASH3S did and still does. My CHVFZ does have the same trait as my Kitty on max Vcore. But I havent tried the CHVFZ on cold ambient.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> 1. Which software are you using to change vcore in Windows?
> 
> 2. Wasn't aware I could clear the CMOS without removing the battery. Might save me a whole lot of headache!
> 
> 3. Anyone able to push their Sabertooth past 1.7V? Can the CHV do it?
> 
> 
> 
> 1. I'm just a BIOS guy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. There are 3 pins with a default position jumper near the USB headers labeled as CLRTC.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Circled for ya.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. I believe @F3ERS 2 ASH3S did and still does. My CHVFZ does have the same trait as my Kitty on max Vcore. But I havent tried the CHVFZ on cold ambient.
Click to expand...

Correctimundo good sir


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Which software are you using to change vcore in Windows?
> 
> Wasn't aware I could clear the CMOS without removing the battery. Might save me a whole lot of headache!
> 
> Anyone able to push their Sabertooth past 1.7V? Can the CHV do it?
> 
> 
> 
> 1. I'm just a BIOS guy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. There are 3 pins with a default position jumper near the USB headers labeled as CLRTC.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Circled for ya.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. I believe @F3ERS 2 ASH3S did and still does. My CHVFZ does have the same trait as my Kitty on max Vcore. But I havent tried the CHVFZ on cold ambient.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Correctimundo good sir
Click to expand...

You sir, is the very first member in mind when talking about Vury High VCoooore.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Which software are you using to change vcore in Windows?
> 
> Wasn't aware I could clear the CMOS without removing the battery. Might save me a whole lot of headache!
> 
> Anyone able to push their Sabertooth past 1.7V? Can the CHV do it?
> 
> 
> 
> 1. I'm just a BIOS guy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. There are 3 pins with a default position jumper near the USB headers labeled as CLRTC.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Circled for ya.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. I believe @F3ERS 2 ASH3S did and still does. My CHVFZ does have the same trait as my Kitty on max Vcore. But I havent tried the CHVFZ on cold ambient.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Correctimundo good sir
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You sir, is the very first member in mind when talking about Vury High VCoooore.
Click to expand...

Awwww i feel so special.. im going the distance


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Alrighty then, count me in











Will Install it tomorrow and post back with some updates


----------



## mus1mus

Welcome? Back?









This is the "I'm just staying with Asus 990FX club"









JK. Good luck mate. See ya scores later!


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Welcome? Back?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the "I'm just staying with Asus 990FX club"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JK. Good luck mate. See ya scores later!


Honestly mate the Saberkitty was my only option, there are no boards here in Aus that can handle a 5Ghz FX chip besides the CVF-Z ($390) and Saberkitty ($260).....my only other choices were the UD3 (no thanks) and the Fatality Killer (You'd have to pay *me* to use that)

Looking forward to seeing what the differance are like actually, already got a couple of nice 80mm fans here ready to go, just gotta gut my case and start again


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Welcome? Back?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the "I'm just staying with Asus 990FX club"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JK. Good luck mate. See ya scores later!
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly mate the Saberkitty was my only option, there are no boards here in Aus that can handle a 5Ghz FX chip besides the CVF-Z ($390) and Saberkitty ($260).....my only other choices were the UD3 (no thanks) and the Fatality Killer (You'd have to pay *me* to use that)
> 
> Looking forward to seeing what the differance are like actually, already got a couple of nice 80mm fans here ready to go, just gotta gut my case and start again
Click to expand...

Perfectly solid point on the choice. But you are still lucky to be living on that side of the world. Kitty is priced as what you should be paying for a CHVFZ round here.

Hmm, differences? A little more Voltages to tweak and some Voltage levels specified just for the CHVFZ, some Memory tweaking stuff missing on the kitty, and yeah, the inevitable "I have a red AMD theme" missing maybe.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Welcome? Back?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the "I'm just staying with Asus 990FX club"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JK. Good luck mate. See ya scores later!
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly mate the Saberkitty was my only option, there are no boards here in Aus that can handle a 5Ghz FX chip besides the CVF-Z ($390) and Saberkitty ($260).....my only other choices were the UD3 (no thanks) and the Fatality Killer (You'd have to pay *me* to use that)
> 
> Looking forward to seeing what the differance are like actually, already got a couple of nice 80mm fans here ready to go, just gotta gut my case and start again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Perfectly solid point on the choice. But you are still lucky to be living on that side of the world. Kitty is priced as what you should be paying for a CHVFZ round here.
> 
> Hmm, differences? A little more Voltages to tweak and some Voltage levels specified just for the CHVFZ, some Memory tweaking stuff missing on the kitty, and yeah, the inevitable "I have a red AMD theme" missing maybe.
Click to expand...

CVF-Z jumped in price by alot recently for some reason, used to be around $300-320 which was acceptable.

Extra voltages will take me a bit to get used to and i never did alot with memory to begin with so i'm alright there, on the bright side i'll have 480mm of rad space just for the CPU now (no mobo block)


----------



## mus1mus

Less Voltages to tweak actually. And lesser max values attainable.









480 for the CPU?







Hmmm you just can't say enough rads can you?







moar is better mate. And lower ambient too.

Fans will be enough. Kept mine within core temps all the time so, yeah.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 1. I'm just a BIOS guy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. There are 3 pins with a default position jumper near the USB headers labeled as CLRTC.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Circled for ya.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. I believe @F3ERS 2 ASH3S did and still does. My CHVFZ does have the same trait as my Kitty on max Vcore. But I havent tried the CHVFZ on cold ambient.


Thanks mus1mus! The jumper should save me a whole lot of headache. When I go too far on vcore sometimes as mentioned I need to pop the CMOS battery out to get it to boot again (







)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Correctimundo good sir


On the Kitty? With watercooling only or subzero? I have my VRMs underwater FWIW. Asking about if 1.7V+ is possible on the Sabertooth if I can keep my temps down or if there's some hard limit


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 1. I'm just a BIOS guy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. There are 3 pins with a default position jumper near the USB headers labeled as CLRTC.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Circled for ya.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. I believe @F3ERS 2 ASH3S did and still does. My CHVFZ does have the same trait as my Kitty on max Vcore. But I havent tried the CHVFZ on cold ambient.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks mus1mus! The jumper should save me a whole lot of headache. When I go too far on vcore sometimes as mentioned I need to pop the CMOS battery out to get it to boot again (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Correctimundo good sir
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> On the Kitty? With watercooling only or subzero? I have my VRMs underwater FWIW. Asking about if 1.7V+ is possible on the Sabertooth if I can keep my temps down or if there's some hard limit
Click to expand...

1.7 underwater dailey for the past 2 and a half years


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> 1.7 underwater dailey for the past 2 and a half years


1.7 set in the bios or after LLC? Thanks!

Also care to share bios rev?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> 1.7 underwater dailey for the past 2 and a half years
> 
> 
> 
> 1.7 set in the bios or after LLC? Thanks!
> 
> Also care to share bios rev?
Click to expand...

Buis, llc brings it to 1.72. 1503 i think was my best oc bios i think im on 2001 right now.. its a bit shakey


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Alrighty, here is where i stand for my daily OC: http://valid.x86.fr/nqt102




And no fans on the vrms or socket yet


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Alrighty, here is where i stand for my daily OC: http://valid.x86.fr/nqt102
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no fans on the vrms or socket yet


Looking good Sarge, do you have any problems with the Asus EC sensor? For some reason when i turn on the EC sensor in my HWINFO64 i don't get the readings anymore.

For some reason this is all i can see:


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Alrighty, here is where i stand for my daily OC: http://valid.x86.fr/nqt102
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no fans on the vrms or socket yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking good Sarge, do you have any problems with the Asus EC sensor? For some reason when i turn on the EC sensor in my HWINFO64 i don't get the readings anymore.
> 
> For some reason this is all i can see:
Click to expand...

I used to get a warning in HWiNFO64 about it but i disable the warning, all you have to do is right click "ASUS EC" and select "Enable Monitoring" and it'll show up for you, I left it disabled for most of that run as it actually slows it down and i only enabled it for about 5 runs so i could get some solid temps recorded









Does anyone know of a program that you can use to monitor the EC sensors without it lagging up my rig or causing my scores to be a bit meh?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> I used to get a warning in HWiNFO64 about it but i disable the warning, all you have to do is right click "ASUS EC" and select "Enable Monitoring" and it'll show up for you, I left it disabled for most of that run as it actually slows it down and i only enabled it for about 5 runs so i could get some solid temps recorded
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know of a program that you can use to monitor the EC sensors without it lagging up my rig or causing my scores to be a bit meh?


Ah i see now, thanks









I get the same problem with this EC sensor, i heard it only occurs in HWINFO64 for monitoring your system.

The thing i like with HWINFO64 is that i can send the data to my Logitech LCD screen so i can see what my system does all the time.

I think AIDA64 doesn't have this problem, i will go install it now and have a look.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> I used to get a warning in HWiNFO64 about it but i disable the warning, all you have to do is right click "ASUS EC" and select "Enable Monitoring" and it'll show up for you, I left it disabled for most of that run as it actually slows it down and i only enabled it for about 5 runs so i could get some solid temps recorded
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know of a program that you can use to monitor the EC sensors without it lagging up my rig or causing my scores to be a bit meh?
> 
> 
> 
> Ah i see now, thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I get the same problem with this EC sensor, i heard it only occurs in HWINFO64 for monitoring your system.
> 
> The thing i like with HWINFO64 is that i can send the data to my Logitech LCD screen so i can see what my system does all the time.
> 
> I think AIDA64 doesn't have this problem, i will go install it now and have a look.
Click to expand...

I have Afterburner on my LCD (I see we have the same keyboard) and i have a Gadget for HWiNFO on my desktop that only has the sensors in it i want:

 

EC Sensors on and off


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Hey guys, now i know i should be getting a better physics score than this in Firestrike: http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/8253687

Anyone able to tell me what's going on?

HWiNFO64 wasn't monitoring, I had Afterburner, GPU-Z and Chrome open but it should drop it that low should it?


----------



## 4kallday

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Hey guys, now i know i should be getting a better physics score than this in Firestrike: http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/8253687
> 
> Anyone able to tell me what's going on?
> 
> HWiNFO64 wasn't monitoring, I had Afterburner, GPU-Z and Chrome open but it should drop it that low should it?


I have a very similar setup to yours (same cpu, two 4gb r9 290x's instead of one 8gb) and your physics score sits pretty well in line with mine.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4kallday*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Hey guys, now i know i should be getting a better physics score than this in Firestrike: http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/8253687
> 
> Anyone able to tell me what's going on?
> 
> HWiNFO64 wasn't monitoring, I had Afterburner, GPU-Z and Chrome open but it should drop it that low should it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a very similar setup to yours (same cpu, two 4gb r9 290x's instead of one 8gb) and your physics score sits pretty well in line with mine.
Click to expand...

I ran one a little earlier than that and got 9500 Physics......on the CVF-Z i was getting 9500-9700, there isnt that big of a difference between the boards i know that so im thinking maybe its a Win 10 thing......


----------



## 4kallday

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> I ran one a little earlier than that and got 9500 Physics......on the CVF-Z i was getting 9500-9700, there isnt that big of a difference between the boards i know that so im thinking maybe its a Win 10 thing......


I'm running the sabertooth as well (should have mentioned that earlier), but with windows 7. When you got the higher score were you running windows 8? That would be the only big differentiating factor between our two systems.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Alrighty, here is where i stand for my daily OC: http://valid.x86.fr/nqt102
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no fans on the vrms or socket yet


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> I used to get a warning in HWiNFO64 about it but i disable the warning, all you have to do is right click "ASUS EC" and select "Enable Monitoring" and it'll show up for you, I left it disabled for most of that run as it actually slows it down and i only enabled it for about 5 runs so i could get some solid temps recorded
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know of a program that you can use to monitor the EC sensors without it lagging up my rig or causing my scores to be a bit meh?


Are those voltages right looks low might have to give that a try.


----------



## deeph

Does anyone know how to turn on Turbo feature of 9590 with this board?


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4kallday*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> I ran one a little earlier than that and got 9500 Physics......on the CVF-Z i was getting 9500-9700, there isnt that big of a difference between the boards i know that so im thinking maybe its a Win 10 thing......
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running the sabertooth as well (should have mentioned that earlier), but with windows 7. When you got the higher score were you running windows 8? That would be the only big differentiating factor between our two systems.
Click to expand...

I ran Win 10 for both runs (on mobilr so i can't link it)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Alrighty, here is where i stand for my daily OC: http://valid.x86.fr/nqt102
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no fans on the vrms or socket yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> I used to get a warning in HWiNFO64 about it but i disable the warning, all you have to do is right click "ASUS EC" and select "Enable Monitoring" and it'll show up for you, I left it disabled for most of that run as it actually slows it down and i only enabled it for about 5 runs so i could get some solid temps recorded
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know of a program that you can use to monitor the EC sensors without it lagging up my rig or causing my scores to be a bit meh?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Are those voltages right looks low might have to give that a try.
Click to expand...

Yeah, those are stable clocks, i might have to try a different PSU just to double check.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> Does anyone know how to turn on Turbo feature of 9590 with this board?


In BIOS (advanced mode) > should be something like AMD Turbo Core or something, disable it


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> Does anyone know how to turn on Turbo feature of 9590 with this board?


I think, Asus boards need to use Offset Vcore and Setting a different value of the Turbo Frequency than that of the Core Frequency. ---When overclocked.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> Does anyone know how to turn on Turbo feature of 9590 with this board?


You are going to need to hand set the over clock of the 9590. The machine will freeze with the turbo turned on or I should say has the tendency to freeze.

Have a look here
http://www.overclock.net/t/1414604/any-9590-or-9370-overclocking-results/750#post_24154810


----------



## deeph

So I didn't turn on the Turbo feature but OC'ed it (Turbo feature made my pc freeze). Running at 5ghz right now.

But...

I have issue with VGA_led lit and no display showed up when booting. This behavior came up after shutting down and then start again. I have to pushed reset button to make proper booting. Actually this issue is before I OC'ed my pc. Anyone know how to fix this?


----------



## Archea47

Such a gorgeous motherboard




I'll be updating the watercooling the 990FX Sabertooth thread shortly with additional pictures and info


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Such a gorgeous motherboard
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be updating the watercooling the 990FX Sabertooth thread shortly with additional pictures and info


Please can you include the much easier Heatkiller NSB option, will help you provide pictures too just name a when and what and i'll get em taken then photoshopped.


----------



## miklkit

I got my Sabertooth back from the shop and have it up and running at 5ghz now. I haven't done any stress testing outside of a couple of passes of IBT just to check things out.

I would like to rename some of the temperature settings but I don't know what some of them are. Could anyone help here? I am pretty sure that vcore-1 is the VRMs but what are temp7 and temp8? The screenie just shows normal use like surfing and light gaming.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I got my Sabertooth back from the shop and have it up and running at 5ghz now. I haven't done any stress testing outside of a couple of passes of IBT just to check things out.
> 
> I would like to rename some of the temperature settings but I don't know what some of them are. Could anyone help here? I am pretty sure that vcore-1 is the VRMs but what are temp7 and temp8? The screenie just shows normal use like surfing and light gaming.


No one knows, I've asked this before but no one answered. Best get stress testing to see how things go, my chip need 1.6v to pass high IBT tests.


----------



## miklkit

Well, one can hope that someone knows. I don't have many hours on this board and it has been so long since I last used it that I have forgotten what little I used to know.

I could not get more than 4.8 ghz out of my early 8350 but this 8370 is capable of at least 200mhz better clocks. Time for an upgrade?


----------



## Cartel

I'd say VRM 1-2
Try Aida64


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Well, one can hope that someone knows. I don't have many hours on this board and it has been so long since I last used it that I have forgotten what little I used to know.
> 
> I could not get more than 4.8 ghz out of my early 8350 but this 8370 is capable of at least 200mhz better clocks. Time for an upgrade?


Go grab Asus suite there is a program in there that shows all your temp sensors and locations on the board. Forget what program it is have not used the asus suite in years. But you can compare the sensor to the location and the temp to figure it out. Remove asus suite when your done . Also do you have external temperature sensors that are not on the board - Fan controller as an example. In Aida temps marked as temperature sensor are usually add in sensors not part of the board. I believe HWinfo works the same way from what I remember of it.


----------



## mus1mus

Thermal Radar.

But it's known to be buggy as AISuite. Interferes with OC and reports false numbers.

It's like enabling EC Sensors.

Aida covers all you need to monitor as well as HWInfo.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Thermal Radar.
> 
> But it's known to be buggy as AISuite. Interferes with OC and reports false numbers.
> 
> It's like enabling EC Sensors.
> 
> Aida covers all you need to monitor as well as HWInfo.


As stated remove asus suite when done Due to this ^^^^^^^^^^^^^


----------



## miklkit

Thanks for the suggestions. I have not run this board since last January and I ran AI Suite then. I was not surprised when I started up HWINFO64 that the EC section showed up even though I had uninstalled AI Suite long ago. It leaves stuff behind. I will reinstall it and see if I can trace the temps.

The system is running ok now but is not quite stable yet.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Thermal Radar.
> 
> But it's known to be buggy as AISuite. Interferes with OC and reports false numbers.
> 
> It's like enabling EC Sensors.
> 
> Aida covers all you need to monitor as well as HWInfo.


I still have AI suite because I installed it and it won't remove, might do a fresh install this week end to fully remove it. But he's correct, I don't know how hot my VRM get anymore because turning on the sensors etc causes issues with my games and my pr0n watching lmao AI suite once told me my cpu hit 8v!


----------



## miklkit

As long as I only use HWINFO64 while stress testing all is well. When it is off I have no interference issues when running this ASUS board.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> As long as I only use HWINFO64 while stress testing all is well. When it is off I have no interference issues when running this ASUS board.


Well yeah, but... what's the point in the board having a way to monitor the temps when it causes issues? That's what i'm tryin to say. I don't run HWinfo with sensors on anymore because I have no need to see how hot my VRM get, they're watercooled anyway, even when I was running air cooling it gave me inconsistent numbers and false readings.

The jury is out on the sensors with this board, they're dodgy lol, either that or i'm actually pumping 8v into my cpu?


----------



## miklkit

Trudat! The goofy AI Suite is a POS, but it's all we have.

I like the way this Sabertooth delivers very stable voltages. It is better at that than the GD80 and that might be part of the reason it OCs better.

I only saw weird voltages when using HWMonitor or OCCT. Don't use them anymore.

Also, I am confirming that the type of air cooler used makes a big difference with this board. The Silver Arrow blows all its air over the top of the VRM heat sink and they overheat. The HE01 has adjustable fans and I set the center fan low so it blows some air directly at the VRMs and they are running 12C cooler right now. 34C now VS 46C with the SA.


----------



## hurricane28

AI suite is the most stupid program i ever heard of.

On a long search on the net i found this program that completely removed the buggy software: https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?30582-AI-Suite-II-uninstall-cleaner-Windows-8-problems

Just download it and install.

EC sensor of this motherboard is buggy as well and doesn't like to be monitored at all, that is also my rant on this board because i would like to know how hot VRM's get without any errors or hick ups.

Just disable the EC sensor in HWINFO64 and there are no problems.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Trudat! The goofy AI Suite is a POS, but it's all we have.
> 
> I like the way this Sabertooth delivers very stable voltages. It is better at that than the GD80 and that might be part of the reason it OCs better.
> 
> I only saw weird voltages when using HWMonitor or OCCT. Don't use them anymore.
> 
> Also, I am confirming that the type of air cooler used makes a big difference with this board. The Silver Arrow blows all its air over the top of the VRM heat sink and they overheat. The HE01 has adjustable fans and I set the center fan low so it blows some air directly at the VRMs and they are running 12C cooler right now. 34C now VS 46C with the SA.


34c? I wish mine stayed at 34c! The lowest my VRM have ever been is 46c idle underload mine hit 70c under water last I checked. You must have a magic cooler or something?


----------



## miklkit

Last January when I was last running this board the VRMs idled at 46C and after 13 passes of IBT AVX Very High hit 82C and it destabilized.

It is early yet and I haven't gotten it fully stable yet but the VRMs are idling at 34C-36C and under no more than 2 passes so far of IBT they have peaked at 66C. I expect to see them go a bit higher later.

I just follow the laws of fluid dynamics. There is no good reason I know of for me to be getting better temperatures than anyone else. I will say that having a 140x38 130cfm fan blowing some of its air at the VRMs can't hurt.

Here is what it is doing today with nothing but idle loads on it.


----------



## mus1mus

For your EC Sensor and AISuite woes, USE AIDA64. It doesn't need EC Sensors to be enabled to monitor VRM Temps and such. It's all in the Preferences Menu under temps.



Downside is a limited number of items that can be monitored.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> For your EC Sensor and AISuite woes, USE AIDA64. It doesn't need EC Sensors to be enabled to monitor VRM Temps and such. It's all in the Preferences Menu under temps.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Downside is a limited number of items that can be monitored.


Holy crap, how did you do 100 runs and your temps never hit 70c? WAAAAAAAAAT?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Holy crap, how did you do 100 runs and your temps never hit 70c? WAAAAAAAAAT?


Nothing special.

2 X 60mm 360 RADS
15C ambient
And a cool running chip.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Nothing special.
> 
> 2 X 60mm 360 RADS
> 15C ambient
> And a cool running chip.


No chance my chip would stay cool enough to do 100 runs!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> No chance my chip would stay cool enough to do 100 runs!


Lap it!

Naah, seriously, it's the chip that's special I guess.

Can still do 1.65 VCore and not hitting 70.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Lap it!
> 
> Naah, seriously, it's the chip that's special I guess.
> 
> Can still do 1.65 VCore and not hitting 70.


Man your cooling must be great and that cpu mustn't be pushing thermals out like no tomorrow! I'd lap it but I can't be bothered lol, plus i seriously doubt I'd see any better temps.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Man your cooling must be great and that cpu mustn't be pushing thermals out like no tomorrow! I'd lap it but I can't be bothered lol, plus i seriously doubt I'd see any better temps.


unless the two mated surfaces are vastly different you won't see huge gains...but it'll give you a few c probably...I don't pursue those small gains but I can see how if you added lap with better fans with a golden chip it would add up and be worth it...but cost and time for performance isn't really worth it to me...is all in what you are after...


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Man your cooling must be great and that cpu mustn't be pushing thermals out like no tomorrow! I'd lap it but I can't be bothered lol, plus i seriously doubt I'd see any better temps.


Benjiw I got ~8*C by lapping and switching from arctic silver to gelid GC extreme a couple years ago back on a h100i (with fans on full, before and after). It got me to 5GHz able to pass a few IBT full runs before getting to 65. I never run my package past that (these days of course much better cooling - especially if I finish Daedalic this weekend! )

The 8350 and 20 I've lapped both really needed it. The IHS is dome shaped and with a flat cooler you can't get optimal heat transfer - TIM is supposed to fill micro scratches not the pocket surrounding the center of the IHS


----------



## mus1mus

Well, if I can still find the results I have posted on the 8320E, you will see that the gains are not sooo small to be wanted.

Hitting 75C on water pre-lap at just 1.4ish Vcore is an indication of a bad IHS.

This 8370E is soo cool I didnt even lap it.


----------



## Mega Man

(Please note the asecrap comments are because I hate patent trolls and have nothing to do with other people)

I don't know about asecrap but most water blocks are not flat. And on purpose. Most chips are concave and due to this most blocks are convex to compensate

This is one of the many reasons I won't lap my stuff


----------



## mus1mus

I have to say, that IHS imperfection does happen.


----------



## Mega Man

yea but everyones ( in this thread ) knee jerk reaction is "lap it" i am just offering a different response


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea but everyones ( in this thread ) knee jerk reaction is "lap it" i am just offering a different response


It isn't just you who says not to lap, B NEG also told me not to do it when I asked in the watercooling gallery thread.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> It isn't just you who says not to lap, B NEG also told me not to do it when I asked in the watercooling gallery thread.


it also changes the mounting pressure on the lids and dies and such which could be bad in some cases..as mega said most blocks are slightly concave in the center because must cpu lids are convex in the center meaning they usually mate pretty good and with correct pressure...but I would say if both are convex or concave it could help...


----------



## mus1mus

It will need a digging, but I am pretty sure my 8320E has a very deep lump at the Center prior to lapping. Concave.

My 8320 was not. It has a slightly convex IHS. Which in its time, was mated to a very convexed surface of my Silver Arrow.

Lapping really helped both of them. But my 8370E kind of had a good contact with my Supremacy EVO out of the box. TIM spread on the center is thinner than that of the corners. And shows no signs of having a bad mount on every occassion.

But yeah, all I know is, these chips somewhat produce same levels of heat on given voltages at right scenarios. 1.5 VCore never gave me 70C temps on water.


----------



## Strudel

I'm shopping for a new mainboard. Sabertooth is the leading contender.
Can the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 be run headless? (no video card)
Can I deal with the firmware from the RS-232 port?
The OS will of course be no problem, assuming it is a normal RS-232 port.


----------



## Mega Man

1 there is not a single 990/970 that can be used without a gpu. You would do better to look at an apu.

You can run it without a gpu once set up but it would be as a server. And without a monitor

2 besides server boards serial ports are all but dead.

Worth that said you can update the bios with usb only. You dont need memory or cpu just psu (with standby power) and mobo


----------



## Jflisk

Here goes another do not lap the heatsink. If you read around some of the heatsinks are concave for a reason. You lap it you take out the curve that's supposed to be there.


----------



## Strudel

> there is not a single 990/970 that can be used without a gpu.

Because? There are lots of things a computer can do that do not
require a gpu.

The only potential problem I can see is if someone who is not exactly
a German Rocket Scientist wrote the firmware so that it will not talk
to a RS-232 console.

FLOSS firmware would solve this issue (and others!), but:
I looked at coreboot but there doesn't seem to be any support for
recent boards. Can't even look at libreboot:

ping -c1 libreboot.org
ping: Cannot resolve "libreboot.org" (Host name lookup failure)

Are there other FLOSS firmwares I should look at?

> You would do better to look at an apu.

My understanding is that Kaveri does not support ECC. (neither does
the FM2+ socket.) There is supposed to be a "Berlin" chip that is
Kaveri + ECC, but finding info about it is pretty much impossible,
much less getting an actual chip. (and a board to plug it into,
whatever socket it fits) Also rumors of a "Toronto" chip,
which I guess is the next generation of the unattainable Berlin.
Also rumors that Berlin is a full SoC, which seems odd.

Looked at Tyan, but their current offerings are useless. (Did I miss one?)

Requirements are simple:

Must get the right answer
1 - ECC
2 - no inthell anything

AMD does 99.9% of the work, putting ECC code into the chips,
but some companies can't be bothered to add a few more
traces for the ECC bits. Or can't be bothered to add
"supports ECC memory" on their web site.

If someone wants an AMD system, chances are that they do NOT want
some crappy inthell chip on the board. (Ethernet seems popular
for some reason.) If some idiot wants to screw up their system
with an inthell chip, that's what expansion cards are for.
Or just buy an inthell system to start with, they generate more
wrong answers per second, which seems to be what everyone wants.

Good quality/dependable/stable/durable/uptime/...

Firmware that works. FLOSS would be best, but that appears
to be impossible. Reviewers hate Gigabyte's firmware. The
dual-bios thing sounds nice, except "the board suddenly decides
that one chip has been damaged and overwrites it". The Asus
thing that allows updating the firmware without a CPU sounds great.
Too many reviews say that they had to plug in an "old" CPU
in order to update the firmware to something that would run the
"new" CPU. Not acceptable. The Asus thing should avoid that.
My Tyan's firmware is absolute crap.
Don't want another board with crappy firmware.

Ability to have RS-232 console. Mostly for debugging. Can't read
the debugging messages while they fly by at Warp 7.2 on a video
monitor. Also useful if the video card or monitor breaks, or if
the computer is too far away from the monitor, ...

Lots of I/O. Sabertooth only has 6 slots. 3 times that would be
about right. The gen3 version only had 5.

Suggestions?


----------



## Mega Man

ok so you do want a server

990/970 HAVE to have a gpu to have a monitor, you can remove them once you are done, but from your post you wanted one that would be able to use a monitor without a gpu

but there is not a SINGLE motherboard ( that i know of, which if you ask around about me, i know alot about the fx platform ) that has a built in gpu, it is designed that way from amd

and again there is NOT ONE with a serial port, there are a few with a serial header, but afaik none can have the firmware updated via it

dont believe me ? fine go find one

from what i am hearing it sounds to me like you need to look into server boards, preferably with impi


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ok so you do want a server
> 
> 990/970 HAVE to have a gpu to have a monitor, you can remove them once you are done, but from your post you wanted one that would be able to use a monitor without a gpu
> 
> but there is not a SINGLE motherboard ( that i know of, which if you ask around about me, i know alot about the fx platform ) that has a built in gpu, it is designed that way from amd
> 
> and again there is NOT ONE with a serial port, there are a few with a serial header, but afaik none can have the firmware updated via it
> 
> dont believe me ? fine go find one
> 
> from what i am hearing it sounds to me like you need to look into server boards, preferably with impi


Not recommending it but doesn't the mATX giga 970 board have HD3000 integrated on it?


----------



## Mega Man

the GA-78LMT-USB3 ? it isnt a 970 it is a 760g http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128565


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the GA-78LMT-USB3 ? it isnt a 970 it is a 760g http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128565


Ahh that's it, not sure why i was thinking it was a 970 chipset board


----------



## cssorkinman

http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/890GX%20Extreme4%20R2.0/

About as close as I can come to the 990 with integrated video.


----------



## Mega Man

yea 890s do have internal video


----------



## Strudel

> ok so you do want a server

In my world, a "server" is a fairly large, expensive, power hungry machine.
Typically about 4 full height cabinets (usually with 19" racks inside).
6 or 7 figure price tag (in US dollars). Lots of CPU, lots of memory,
and lots of I/O.

What many people call a server these days doesn't even qualify as a
workstation.

I don't want a "server".
I don't want a "desktop".
I don't want a "laptop".
I don't want a "palm-top".
I don't want a "wrist-top".
Or any other kind of top.

I want a general purpose digital computer.
I suppose "workstation" probably comes closest.

> you wanted one that would be able to use a monitor without a gpu

No, I want one that can be used headless. Head meaning monitor.
I guess the framebuffer, gpu, and such would be the neck.

A headless computer uses RS-232 as the console.
You can connect a computer terminal and use that, or you can
connect another computer's RS-232 and run a terminal emulator
program. This method the advantage of being able to record
all the console output in a file on disk. You can then examine the
file at your leasure, which is useful when debugging your latest
kernel modification. Most terminals don't have enough (or any)
scrollback for this. You can also do things like connect a
POTS modem to the console port and control the computer from
anywhere that has a phone line.

> SINGLE motherboard ( that i know of, which if you ask around
> about me, i know alot about the fx platform ) that has a built in gpu

Seems like some of the chipsets had some sort of framebuffer/gpu
in them, not that long ago. Maybe the CPUs weren't called "FX"
that week? Now they've moved that into the CPU chip and renamed it
APU. The unified memory address space seems like it should have
advantages. Add ECC and I'll buy one.

> afaik none can have the firmware updated via it

If you mean write a new version of firmware into the EPROM
(or "flash" or whatever they're calling it this week), that
is not something I plan on doing very often, if ever.

I do mean things like tell the firmware which device to boot
from and things like that. I don't interact much with the
firmware, but when things go wrong I need a way to do it.

I don't know what the problem is. A UART doesn't cost much,
a lot of the chipsets, i/o chips and such include at least one.
All the board designer has to do is bring a few traces out to
a pin header. Sending some text to a UART is a *lot* easier
than programming a lot of useless fancy graphics stuff for the
kids to impress their friends with.

Same deal with expansion slots. Yes the PCIe slots need lanes,
and some boards do some fancy kludges with lanes. But if a
board has a PCI slot, it should be easy and inexpensive enough
to add more PCI slots. Yes PCI is kinda low bandwidth compared
with PCIe, and it is shared, but there are plenty of low
bandwidth PCI boards that can be useful, if only you have the
sockets to plug them into.

It's not that I want the machine to be headless, it's that I
want/need the option to use a RS-232 console if I want or need to.


----------



## Mega Man

well your definition of server is very wrong they are designed far better then consumer boards in terms of power consumption and the cabnets you speak of are usually several servers

and again ( and this will be my last time i say this ) i would highly recommend you go look at the server boards, esp the boards with impi


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barakas*
> 
> Hey guys, I have got my pc stable at 3.3, 1055t locked multiplier. Its 240x14.0. Thats the highest i can get it. If i take it upto 3.8 while dropping my ram back so its at 1599 i just get a black screen. I am running voltage at 1.3v am i missing something ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strudel*
> 
> I'm shopping for a new mainboard. Sabertooth is the leading contender.
> Can the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 be run headless? (no video card)
> Can I deal with the firmware from the RS-232 port?
> The OS will of course be no problem, assuming it is a normal RS-232 port.


Why would you run a rig like this as a server? It is an enthusiast overclocking board.


----------



## Strudel

> well your definition of server is very wrong

No it isn't. I have a degree in electrical engineering and have
worked with these machines. Hardware development, software development,
administration, etc.

> they are designed far better then consumer boards

Yes

> in terms of power consumption

You can't run 4 cabinets full of gear on a single 20A 120VAC outlet.

> and the cabnets you speak of are usually several servers

No. One server, one instance of Unix. The older ones had a single CPU.
Then George at Purdue University figured out that you could add a second
CPU on the VAX's bus. The gang at UCB helped with the software, creating
a master/slave version of Unix. (the kernel could only run on one CPU)
Later, companies like Pyramid and Sequent upgraded this to full SMP,
with several CPUs. Still one server, one instance of Unix. There is
a limit to how long you can make a bus, so later they introduced NUMA.

If you want an example, look up DEC's VAX/780. 32 bits, 1 MIPS,
1 CPU (until George and the UCB guys) very popular in the early 1980s.

> impi

I asked google to define: impi and got a boatload of unrelated stuff.
Does this stand for something? URL that explains it?

The "server" (cough) boards I've glanced at are pee-cees with more
CPU, more memory, but even less I/O. Tyan has boards with 4 CPU sockets
and 4 slots. One CPU socket is plenty these days, but more PCIe/PCI
slots would be very useful. I have yet to see a board with more than
7 slots, and many have fewer. Some cases have holes for 8-10, and a
few have 11. That's probably ok for a 7 slot board, since there are
extra I/O ports that don't fit on the little brackets, so room for
extra brackets is useful. I'd really like about 15 or so slots,
and a case with holes for 20-25 brackets.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea 890s do have internal video


GX designation seems to be the difference as opposed to FX. Wasn't there one "990" board without any designation at all?

Going to have to make some concessions in his case the way it looks to me.


----------



## Mr Evil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strudel*
> 
> > well your definition of server is very wrong
> 
> No it isn't. I have a degree in electrical engineering and have
> worked with these machines. Hardware development, software development,
> administration, etc...


The word "server" just means a machine designed to serve clients. The type of hardware could be anything from a room-filling mainframe down to a Raspberry Pi in a shoe box, depending on what is being served to how many clients.

p.s. I have a degree in electrical enginnering too, but that doesn't make me any more or less right.


----------



## cssorkinman

I recall an AMD processor that was a low clockspeed, low power version of an 8 core Vishera bundled with a motherboard that had some of the attributes he was looking for on e-bay . It was from a seller in Asia - can't for the life of me recall the brand / model of motherboard but I believe it was a 3300 series opteron cpu. I've been looking for it , but it seems to be unavailable on ebay atm. I nearly bought one to play with, it was pretty reasonably priced.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strudel*
> 
> > well your definition of server is very wrong
> 
> No it isn't. I have a degree in electrical engineering and have
> worked with these machines. Hardware development, software development,
> administration, etc.
> 
> > they are designed far better then consumer boards
> 
> Yes
> 
> > in terms of power consumption
> 
> You can't run 4 cabinets full of gear on a single 20A 120VAC outlet.
> 
> > and the cabnets you speak of are usually several servers
> 
> No. One server, one instance of Unix. The older ones had a single CPU.
> Then George at Purdue University figured out that you could add a second
> CPU on the VAX's bus. The gang at UCB helped with the software, creating
> a master/slave version of Unix. (the kernel could only run on one CPU)
> Later, companies like Pyramid and Sequent upgraded this to full SMP,
> with several CPUs. Still one server, one instance of Unix. There is
> a limit to how long you can make a bus, so later they introduced NUMA.
> 
> If you want an example, look up DEC's VAX/780. 32 bits, 1 MIPS,
> 1 CPU (until George and the UCB guys) very popular in the early 1980s.
> 
> > impi
> 
> I asked google to define: impi and got a boatload of unrelated stuff.
> Does this stand for something? URL that explains it?
> 
> The "server" (cough) boards I've glanced at are pee-cees with more
> CPU, more memory, but even less I/O. Tyan has boards with 4 CPU sockets
> and 4 slots. One CPU socket is plenty these days, but more PCIe/PCI
> slots would be very useful. I have yet to see a board with more than
> 7 slots, and many have fewer. Some cases have holes for 8-10, and a
> few have 11. That's probably ok for a 7 slot board, since there are
> extra I/O ports that don't fit on the little brackets, so room for
> extra brackets is useful. I'd really like about 15 or so slots,
> and a case with holes for 20-25 brackets.


I am glad you are "another engineer. ( seems like everyone on the interwebs is ) "
so you must not need me to tell you any of this !
I run several servers in my basement. All at a grand total of 117w.

Try googling https://www.google.com/search?q=ser...le.com/search?q=server+impi&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8server ipmi ( whoops autocorrect on moble i just noticed was autocorrecting to impi not ipmi )

all joking and sarcasm aside it was the best thing i did for myself, spend a bit more on a server board that has IPMI and i would highly recomend it. i dont have to goto the basement to access the console
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea 890s do have internal video
> 
> 
> 
> GX designation seems to be the difference as opposed to FX. Wasn't there one "990" board without any designation at all?
> 
> Going to have to make some concessions in his case the way it looks to me.
Click to expand...

but


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I am glad you are "another engineer. ( seems like everyone on the interwebs is ) "
> so you must not need me to tell you any of this !
> I run several servers in my basement. All at a grand total of 117w.
> 
> Try googling https://www.google.com/search?q=ser...le.com/search?q=server+impi&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8server ipmi ( whoops autocorrect on moble i just noticed was autocorrecting to impi not ipmi )
> 
> all joking and sarcasm aside it was the best thing i did for myself, spend a bit more on a server board that has IPMI and i would highly recomend it. i dont have to goto the basement to access the console
> but


I have to admit that ipmi is pretty nice....so ideally you could reboot or reconfigure a server from a cave if you wanted too...I could see this being invaluable to anyone running any server that runs a critical service...out as you said doesn't want to run up and down stairs all the time or hop on a plane after a power outage


----------



## Mega Man

Correct. I just keep it on a different network for safeties sake- that is not connected to the outside Web ( not that you couldn't. I just don't want to )

(Dons tin foil hat)


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Correct. I just keep it on a different network for safeties sake- that is not connected to the outside Web ( not that you couldn't. I just don't want to )
> 
> (_Dons tin foil hat_)


----------



## Strudel

cssorkinman:
>>> http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/890GX%20Extreme4%20R2.0/

http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/890GX Extreme4 R2.0/?cat=Specifications

Says it wants non-ecc memory :-( Which is inexcusable. Anybody
know different? Can this board actually do ECC? Will the
firmware talk to RS-232?

Mr Evil:
>> The word "server" just means a machine designed to serve clients.

In a way you're right, but by that definition a little Ethernet switch
could be called a server. Pretty much everything serves something to
some client.

>> ... Raspberry Pi ...

I wish someone would make a similar board with ECC. Then it would
be useful. Until then I guess I'll continue to channel my inner
Crocodile Dundee : "That ain't no server, this here's a server!"
(Pushes button on remote, and a multi-cabinet server falls on the bad guy.)

Mega Man:
> Try googling server ipmi ( whoops autocorrect on moble i just noticed
> was autocorrecting to impi not ipmi )

Isn't technology wonderful? Now you can blame spelling correction
software instead of admitting to a typo! 

"ipmi" works much better: "Intelligent Platform Management Interface"
must be what you're referring to.

Wikipedia says:
"The development of this interface specification was led by Intel Corporation"
Those idiots couldn't design their way out of a wet paper bag, even
if they stole the design, which they frequently do. I'll skim though
the page, but I'm not that excited about yet another learning curve,
especially when the design is bound to have problems.

> i dont have to goto the basement to access the console

Neither do I. I just cu(1) to the RS-232 port that is wired to
the console of the other machine. Easy peasy.

I don't suppose you have an example of the type of "server" board
you're suggesting?

> I run several servers in my basement. All at a grand total of 117w.

Power efficiency is good. Not looking for something that needs a direct
line from the hydroelectric plant just to run the CPU.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> it also changes the mounting pressure on the lids and dies and such which could be bad in some cases..as mega said most blocks are slightly concave in the center because must cpu lids are convex in the center meaning they usually mate pretty good and with correct pressure...but I would say if both are convex or concave it could help...


If you aren't sure whether to lap or not lap your CPU ...

My FX-8350 and 8320s all have/had significantly convex IHSs. This is apparent when sanding them and the center comes off first, and it takes quite a while for the surrounding zinc to start to be removed:


Intel CPUs as far as I'm aware use concave IHS and most coolers have a convex surface to mate with the Intel IHS. With two concave surfaces you will have diminished heat transfer because the TIM is ultimately less thermally conductive than two mated copper surfaces. This was pretty obvious on the FX before lapping - there would be a big buildup of TIM left on the sides of the CPU.

As for lapping or not lapping the CPU block ... the way to test whether it (or the CPU IHS) is flat is to draw lines across it in diagonals with permanent marker, then sand it on a _perfectly flat_ surface. You can do this with ~2000 grit sandpaper so you aren't actually removing significant material and lapping your CPU. The high points will be sanded off and the low points will keep the marker

I've heard claim (from BNEG) that the EK Supremacy block will form to the shape of the IHS based on which insert you use. I have very little faith that the pressure from the plexi top against the insert and the pressure from the mounting springs are going to warp at all the solid copper block that is the heat transfer plate mating to the CPU

The best thermal transfer is going to happen between the IHS and the heatsink when the copper to copper area is maximized, which includes using as little TIM as necessary. When there are gaps those need to be filled by TIM. When both surfaces are flat you only need to tin with TIM, and I had significant thermal improvement after lapping and just tin'ing (8*C from 65 to 58*C) but can't attribute all of that to just lapping as that was also a switch from Actic Silver to Gelic GC Extreme


----------



## mus1mus

That looks better than this:



And, as I have posted in the main thread:
For those curious about how much can be gained from lapping a bad IHS.


Spoiler: My Dead 8320E after Lapping











Spoiler: From this: QUICK Prime Blend


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strudel*
> 
> cssorkinman:
> >>> http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/890GX%20Extreme4%20R2.0/
> 
> http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/890GX Extreme4 R2.0/?cat=Specifications
> 
> Says it wants non-ecc memory :-( Which is inexcusable. Anybody
> know different? Can this board actually do ECC? Will the
> firmware talk to RS-232?
> 
> Mr Evil:
> >> The word "server" just means a machine designed to serve clients.
> 
> In a way you're right, but by that definition a little Ethernet switch
> could be called a server. Pretty much everything serves something to
> some client.
> 
> >> ... Raspberry Pi ...
> 
> I wish someone would make a similar board with ECC. Then it would
> be useful. Until then I guess I'll continue to channel my inner
> Crocodile Dundee : "That ain't no server, this here's a server!"
> (Pushes button on remote, and a multi-cabinet server falls on the bad guy.)
> 
> Mega Man:
> > Try googling server ipmi ( whoops autocorrect on moble i just noticed
> > was autocorrecting to impi not ipmi )
> 
> Isn't technology wonderful? Now you can blame spelling correction
> software instead of admitting to a typo!
> 
> "ipmi" works much better: "Intelligent Platform Management Interface"
> must be what you're referring to.
> 
> Wikipedia says:
> "The development of this interface specification was led by Intel Corporation"
> Those idiots couldn't design their way out of a wet paper bag, even
> if they stole the design, which they frequently do. I'll skim though
> the page, but I'm not that excited about yet another learning curve,
> especially when the design is bound to have problems.
> 
> > i dont have to goto the basement to access the console
> 
> Neither do I. I just cu(1) to the RS-232 port that is wired to
> the console of the other machine. Easy peasy.
> 
> I don't suppose you have an example of the type of "server" board
> you're suggesting?
> 
> > I run several servers in my basement. All at a grand total of 117w.
> 
> Power efficiency is good. Not looking for something that needs a direct
> line from the hydroelectric plant just to run the CPU.


The Asrock was just a suggestion for a board that was as close as I could find to a 990 with an igp.
It's bothering the beans out of me that I cant remember what motherboard the company on ebay was selling an AM3+ 8 core with as a bundle, I am nearly certain it had an IGP too. It was one I'd scarcely heard of .


----------



## Strudel

> The Asrock was just a suggestion for a board that was as close
> as I could find to a 990 with an igp.

Assuming that igp stands for something like integrated graphics processor,
that is not a requirement, although it would save a slot. I guess
another way to save that slot would be one of those USB-to-video thingies,
(assuming they actually work, which is probably a rather big assumption)
but I doubt that the firmware would talk to them?

Good quality/dependable/stable/durable/uptime/... part of which is
ECC and no inthell. Firmware that works. Ability to update firmware
without risking bricking the board. Ability to have RS-232 console.

Surely there is still a company or two that still make products that
actually work, as opposed to throwing in buggy half-baked versions of
whatever useless "features" the teenagers think is fashionable?

> It's bothering the beans out of me that I cant remember what
> motherboard the company on ebay was selling an AM3+ 8 core with as a bundle

A caching web proxy maintains a cache of web pages on disk that can be
handy for things like this. Maybe one of those "wayback machine"
web archive sites would have it? I suppose google's cache probably
doesn't go back very far.


----------



## mus1mus

@Strudel

I hate to say this but you seem to be the guy who knows what you are up to. Clearly someone who can't be bothered with what you know. Why not just do what you want and not asking for anything here?

It has taken quite a few replies from respectable guys here and all you throw back are the things that you are fully aware of. STOP.

If you want a board that fits all your needs, naah. You cant find it. Just FULL STOP!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> If you aren't sure whether to lap or not lap your CPU ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My FX-8350 and 8320s all have/had significantly convex IHSs. This is apparent when sanding them and the center comes off first, and it takes quite a while for the surrounding zinc to start to be removed:
> 
> 
> Intel CPUs as far as I'm aware use concave IHS and most coolers have a convex surface to mate with the Intel IHS. With two concave surfaces you will have diminished heat transfer because the TIM is ultimately less thermally conductive than two mated copper surfaces. This was pretty obvious on the FX before lapping - there would be a big buildup of TIM left on the sides of the CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> As for lapping or not lapping the CPU block ... the way to test whether it (or the CPU IHS) is flat is to draw lines across it in diagonals with permanent marker, then sand it on a _perfectly flat_ surface. You can do this with ~2000 grit sandpaper so you aren't actually removing significant material and lapping your CPU. The high points will be sanded off and the low points will keep the marker
> 
> I've heard claim (from BNEG) that the EK Supremacy block will form to the shape of the IHS based on which insert you use. I have very little faith that the pressure from the plexi top against the insert and the pressure from the mounting springs are going to warp at all the solid copper block that is the heat transfer plate mating to the CPU
> 
> The best thermal transfer is going to happen between the IHS and the heatsink when the copper to copper area is maximized, which includes using as little TIM as necessary. When there are gaps those need to be filled by TIM. When both surfaces are flat you only need to tin with TIM, and I had significant thermal improvement after lapping and just tin'ing (8*C from 65 to 58*C) but can't attribute all of that to just lapping as that was also a switch from Actic Silver to Gelic GC Extreme


Actually the best way to test without sanding is to use a metal ruler on its side which is perfectly straight and shine light behind it.


----------



## FlawleZ

Forgive me if it's been discussed already but I didn't see it doing a quick search on the thread. Did anyone ever mod the R2 bios to enable the core unlocking module that the R1 had? Very aggravating Asus removed it from R2+ revision boards.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Actually the best way to test without sanding is to use a metal ruler on its side which is perfectly straight and shine light behind it.


yep that or the razor check...but for the larger blocks definitely straight edge


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> That looks better than this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, as I have posted in the main thread:
> 
> 
> For those curious about how much can be gained from lapping a bad IHS.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: My Dead 8320E after Lapping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: From this: QUICK Prime Blend


Wow that's very different from the concave IHS I pictured - is that the 8320E you referenced? Curious that they changed the IHS design with the E chips

For the screen caps while running IBT are there before and after figures or just the 'after' results?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Wow that's very different from the concave IHS I pictured - *was* that the 8320E you referenced? Curious that they changed the IHS design with the E chips
> 
> For the screen caps while running IBT are there before and after figures or just the 'after' results?


Yessir! Its dead though.

I dont think it's by design. Imperfections, maybe. Or simply just a bad forging. Must be the reason why the poor chip was dropped to a lower SKU. T'was a good clocker, that chip. RIP

The first spoiler was showing the results after lapping. The last one was for a quick prime blend pre-lap, IIRC, out of the box. I know I should of made a run of IBT before lapping but, when the chip hitting 75 in blend for about 5 minutes, I wouldnt for the life of it do an IBT knowing it's gonna get hotter.

Both were done in an ambient of high 20s by the way.

Edit: btw, that picture shows the chip after more than a hundred passes on a 100-grit coarse sandpaper. It's pretty deep.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Edit: btw, that picture shows the chip after more than a hundred passes on a 100-grit coarse sandpaper. It's pretty deep.


I suspect one of the reasons these IHS can't be flat is from them being soldered to the chip. The heat would probably distort the surface even if it was perfect to start with. One of the racecars I work on has spherical ball joints and when the ball sockets start to get loose a little weld on the outside tightens the steel back up

Crazy to think about that pit in the IHS when the TIM is marketed to fill microscopic scratches


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I suspect one of the reasons these IHS can't be flat is from them being soldered to the chip. The heat would probably distort the surface even if it was perfect to start with. One of the racecars I work on has spherical ball joints and when the ball sockets start to get loose a little weld on the outside tightens the steel back up
> 
> Crazy to think about that pit in the IHS when the TIM is marketed to fill microscopic scratches


That is a good possibility. IHS being copper, hmmm.

My first FX was also lapped. An 8320 that has both bumps and lumps on the IHS. That one is running very cool now. Hits within 60C at 1.5V on water temps in the low 30s.

As for TIM spread, that 8320E requires more than a rice grain amount to fully cover the area using just the mounting pressure to spread the TIM. Obvious clue.


----------



## miklkit

I lapped an 8350 and a 9590 and they both look like mus1mus's. They were deep enough that I got concerned about wearing through on the edges and stopped before they were finished.


----------



## Renner

Add me, yo: http://valid.x86.fr/dwrui8


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Edit: btw, that picture shows the chip after more than a hundred passes on a 100-grit coarse sandpaper. It's pretty deep.
> 
> 
> 
> I suspect one of the reasons these IHS can't be flat is from them being soldered to the chip. The heat would probably distort the surface even if it was perfect to start with. One of the racecars I work on has spherical ball joints and when the ball sockets start to get loose a little weld on the outside tightens the steel back up
> 
> Crazy to think about that pit in the IHS when the TIM is marketed to fill microscopic scratches
Click to expand...

not really all the intel e chips are soldered as well. it just happens some are not perfect, but most are fine you alli are forgetting when pressure is applied to the chip it also pushed down on the ihs reshapping the ihs some too


----------



## miklkit

ok, I am getting all kinds of instability problems involving blue screens and lockups when stress testing. While also looking at other things I want to confirm some things about this board. First a little history.

When I bought it and ran it last year it ran great. Then last January I made some hardware changes (cpu and cooler) and again it ran great except that the VRMs overheated badly. While rearranging the furniture I managed to scratch and kill it. Eventually I took it to a shop where the guy repaired it and now I'm running it again. Changed the cooler again and now the VRMs are running pretty cool but it has real problems passing any stress tests.

1) It seems that every other time I go into the bios I am unable to change anything. When I click on something with the mouse or keyboard nothing happens. I do not recall this happening before.

2) What is the best bios for this board? It is currently the 2104 bios and I am running win8.1 with the intention of going to winX soon.

Thoughts?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> ok, I am getting all kinds of instability problems involving blue screens and lockups when stress testing. While also looking at other things I want to confirm some things about this board. First a little history.
> 
> When I bought it and ran it last year it ran great. Then last January I made some hardware changes (cpu and cooler) and again it ran great except that the VRMs overheated badly. While rearranging the furniture I managed to scratch and kill it. Eventually I took it to a shop where the guy repaired it and now I'm running it again. Changed the cooler again and now the VRMs are running pretty cool but it has real problems passing any stress tests.
> 
> 1) It seems that every other time I go into the bios I am unable to change anything. When I click on something with the mouse or keyboard nothing happens. I do not recall this happening before.
> 
> 2) What is the best bios for this board? It is currently the 2104 bios and I am running win8.1 with the intention of going to winX soon.
> 
> Thoughts?


Strange man, perhaps an BIOS update would help. I can recall that the BIOS you are using had some probleems. Update to the latest one and if that doesn't help, i am sorry man but in think your board is toased.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> ok, I am getting all kinds of instability problems involving blue screens and lockups when stress testing. While also looking at other things I want to confirm some things about this board. First a little history.
> 
> When I bought it and ran it last year it ran great. Then last January I made some hardware changes (cpu and cooler) and again it ran great except that the VRMs overheated badly. While rearranging the furniture I managed to scratch and kill it. Eventually I took it to a shop where the guy repaired it and now I'm running it again. Changed the cooler again and now the VRMs are running pretty cool but it has real problems passing any stress tests.
> 
> 1) It seems that every other time I go into the bios I am unable to change anything. When I click on something with the mouse or keyboard nothing happens. I do not recall this happening before.
> 
> 2) What is the best bios for this board? It is currently the 2104 bios and I am running win8.1 with the intention of going to winX soon.
> 
> Thoughts?


have you ran something like who crashed to see what caused blue screen?


----------



## Renner

Whoops, sorry wrong thread.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> have you ran something like who crashed to see what caused blue screen?


It was always something different. It seemed to be hardware related. I have been tweaking settings since and the blue screens seem to have stopped, but it still locks up a lot when stress testing.


----------



## mus1mus

I'm doing fine on the latest BIOS. 2501? But recently lost all my OC profiles after resting the board back to its box. Doing things all over again.


----------



## miklkit

It is starting to look like I was overvolting various things. I have been backing off on volts here and there and it is getting better. No more blue screens or even lockups, but it is wildly unstable in IBT with a 1.8 followed by 6.2, or 3.0 followed by 4.5.

Is there a bios update needed for winX?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> It is starting to look like I was overvolting various things. I have been backing off on volts here and there and it is getting better. No more blue screens or even lockups, but it is wildly unstable in IBT with a 1.8 followed by 6.2, or 3.0 followed by 4.5.
> 
> Is there a bios update needed for winX?


pretty sure they haven't released one for quite some time


----------



## Benjiw

Could someone say what voltages do what when overclocking what? hahaha I have quite a few things overclocked but unsure as to what does what.









Is this a decent score or is it a tad bit low?


----------



## miklkit

LOL! Me too. I don't have enough time on this board to have it figures out at all. I did get a lot of help from the community when I asked last year and have been tweaking their suggested settings.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> It is starting to look like I was overvolting various things. I have been backing off on volts here and there and it is getting better. No more blue screens or even lockups, but it is wildly unstable in IBT with a 1.8 followed by 6.2, or 3.0 followed by 4.5.
> 
> Is there a bios update needed for winX?


Are you running IBT with Win7 compatibility? Updated a certain service pack needed to run IBT? Admin mode?

Check out CPU-NB Voltage. It's response is somewhat not linear.

NB Volts to max 1.25
LLC Ultra gives cooler Core temps
NB VDDA 1.8 can be raised a tad. 1.805 or so.
I don't have issues running HT Link past 3000. But it's hard to detect instabilities from OCing it.
LLC Frequency helps a bit.


----------



## miklkit

Whoa! slow down a bit.

I am using win8.1 and IBT AVX works fine.

I have been lowering cpu-nb and it is now 1.225v.

NB volts is fine at 1.219v max.

What is NB VDDA?

It seems to be a long term issue to use high HT link and I dropped it with no ill effects that I can tell.

What is LLC frequency?

This is where I am right now after surfing and light gaming.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Whoa! slow down a bit.
> 
> I am using win8.1 and IBT AVX works fine.
> 
> I have been lowering cpu-nb and it is now 1.225v.
> 
> NB volts is fine at 1.219v max.
> 
> What is NB VDDA?
> 
> It seems to be a long term issue to use high HT link and I dropped it with no ill effects that I can tell.
> 
> What is LLC frequency?
> 
> This is where I am right now after surfing and light gaming.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


NB 1.8 Voltage - can be raised to 1.805
NB Voltage seems to be helping my OC. I have it maxed to 1.25

LLC Settings. Look for CPU Voltage Frequency. Helps stabilizing Vcore at High OCs. IIRC I have mine higher than 800! 450.
CPU Current Capability - Maxed.
Transient Response - Ultra Fast.

Wait, I am going to check my rig for screenies.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Whoa! slow down a bit.
> 
> I am using win8.1 and IBT AVX works fine.
> 
> I have been lowering cpu-nb and it is now 1.225v.
> 
> NB volts is fine at 1.219v max.
> 
> What is NB VDDA?
> 
> It seems to be a long term issue to use high HT link and I dropped it with no ill effects that I can tell.
> 
> What is LLC frequency?
> 
> This is where I am right now after surfing and light gaming.


Did you update to the newer 2501 bios? If not, that would be one step in the right direction.

Here are some bios screens of my bios:


----------



## miklkit

No I have not updated yet, but intend to as the last bios update is from May. It should be the one for winX.

I will look at your settings in detail but my first impression is that some of those settings sent my temps well past 70C in seconds. I have not tried readjusting the fans yet so the motherboard has a lot of headroom while the cpu has none.


----------



## miklkit

So I flashed it to the 2501 bios and it starts and loads much faster than before. I also decided I had completely screwed things up and reset most things to auto. That way I found I had been undervolting the CPU-NB.









The CPU is still running 5C hotter than it should and methinks that is the source of the instability.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> So I flashed it to the 2501 bios and it starts and loads much faster than before. I also decided I had completely screwed things up and reset most things to auto. That way I found I had been undervolting the CPU-NB.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The CPU is still running 5C hotter than it should and methinks that is the source of the instability.


auto defaults to 1.4 iirc which is high for most cpu-nb


----------



## miklkit

Yes it does default to 1.4v. I now have it manually set to 1.225v. Dunno if that is too low or not yet. Would 1.3 or 1.35 be better?

Progress! I found 2 problem areas.

1) It seems the Sabertooth does not like overvolted ram. The MSI GD80 I am used to does like it hot so I just automatically set it to 1.62v. So I dropped it a bit and stability has returned.









2) It seems I wasn't as careful as I should have been when installing the cooler. Compared to the GD80 the CPU socket is set slightly lower and to the rear on the PCB. It is not much and only a ruler shows it, but it just enough so that the rear fan can foul the silver cans for the rear usb ports and lift the cooler off level. This causes bad contact between the heat sink and the ihs. That issue is fixed now and the heat sink is mounted flush. (I like using all these little abbreviations. They make me look like I know what I'm talking about.)

TL;DR: It is more stable and cooler now.


----------



## Archea47

Okay ...

Hopefully this saves someone some time. If you keep getting the "windows could not prepare the computer to boot into next phase" message, try making a raid0 array with sector size of only 512B (default)

Spent Hours on this!

Also, having a horizontal case is extremely convenient with the DirectKey at my fingertips







Wish it worked from Windows


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Yes it does default to 1.4v. I now have it manually set to 1.225v. Dunno if that is too low or not yet. Would 1.3 or 1.35 be better?
> 
> Progress! I found 2 problem areas.
> 
> 1) It seems the Sabertooth does not like overvolted ram. The MSI GD80 I am used to does like it hot so I just automatically set it to 1.62v. So I dropped it a bit and stability has returned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) It seems I wasn't as careful as I should have been when installing the cooler. Compared to the GD80 the CPU socket is set slightly lower and to the rear on the PCB. It is not much and only a ruler shows it, but it just enough so that the rear fan can foul the silver cans for the rear usb ports and lift the cooler off level. This causes bad contact between the heat sink and the ihs. That issue is fixed now and the heat sink is mounted flush. (I like using all these little abbreviations. They make me look like I know what I'm talking about.)
> 
> TL;DR: It is more stable and cooler now.


the cpu-nb voltage I'd based on what the nb is set to and how much you are overclocking the cpu and memory...i run 1.3 for 2600 nb and ram at 2133 [email protected] 1.65v with cpu at [email protected] 1.512v(probably a little low on cpu-nb but isn't unstable so) but once again no one person's values will match yours because every board/chip is unique...the saber tooth is fine with overvolted ram assuming all voltages are at proper values...I've seen guys running 1.7v and higher with prior ram cooling....but tbh I overvolt from specs just a little as per megas suggestion a couple of years ago...never failed to work as intended...I would say voltages on ram are more ram dependant on this board

Imo your biggest problems were the cooler if not seating properly and the fact that you tried overclocking everything at once...always get stable cpu overclock first then move on to the other areas...your cpu overclock can determine how high you can go on other overclocks especially ram overclocks due to imcs being unique to the chip/board combo


----------



## miklkit

This OC was from a preset that was stable before. The work had already been done and since all the parts are the same except for a different cooler I expected it to work fine. Only when it didn't want to work did I start tweaking things.


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> Forgive me if it's been discussed already but I didn't see it doing a quick search on the thread. Did anyone ever mod the R2 bios to enable the core unlocking module that the R1 had? Very aggravating Asus removed it from R2+ revision boards.


So no replies I take it that means no?


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> Forgive me if it's been discussed already but I didn't see it doing a quick search on the thread. Did anyone ever mod the R2 bios to enable the core unlocking module that the R1 had? Very aggravating Asus removed it from R2+ revision boards.
> 
> 
> 
> So no replies I take it that means no?
Click to expand...

Not sure on the sabertooth, but I have read a forum that you can use certain bios with the CHV-Z that will allow you to unlock cores , but I've never confirmed that.

Going to have to go google mining i guess


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Not sure on the sabertooth, but I have read a forum that you can use certain bios with the CHV-Z that will allow you to unlock cores , but I've never confirmed that.
> 
> Going to have to go google mining i guess


Doesn't the CHV already have core unlocking?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Not sure on the sabertooth, but I have read a forum that you can use certain bios with the CHV-Z that will allow you to unlock cores , but I've never confirmed that.
> 
> Going to have to go google mining i guess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't the CHV already have core unlocking?
Click to expand...

There are 2 versions of unlocking.. 1 is where it is the individual core which is the rumored and where you can activate or disable each individual core. The other is where its per module.. so cores 01, 23, 45, 67 in the respective pairs.. the former is the one most talked about because if that was possible you can boost the performance by not having shared resources on single threaded applications...


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> There are 2 versions of unlocking.. 1 is where it is the individual core which is the rumored and where you can activate or disable each individual core. The other is where its per module.. so cores 01, 23, 45, 67 in the respective pairs.. the former is the one most talked about because if that was possible you can boost the performance by not having shared resources on single threaded applications...


Ok, this is in regards to a Phenom II 960T which is a Thuban hexacore with 2 cores disabled. The R2 Sabertooth has the core unlocking feature removed for some senseless reason that the R1 had.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> There are 2 versions of unlocking.. 1 is where it is the individual core which is the rumored and where you can activate or disable each individual core. The other is where its per module.. so cores 01, 23, 45, 67 in the respective pairs.. the former is the one most talked about because if that was possible you can boost the performance by not having shared resources on single threaded applications...
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, this is in regards to a Phenom II 960T which is a Thuban hexacore with 2 cores disabled. The R2 Sabertooth has the core unlocking feature removed for some senseless reason that the R1 had.
Click to expand...

Oh I see.. Im so used to the FX line, I think ASUS took that out due to the r2.0 was released when the PD chips came out, thus not needing it.. and putting in a differential between the flagship and the 2 level tier.. as really there is hardly much of a difference between them except some slightly better components..


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Not sure on the sabertooth, but I have read a forum that you can use certain bios with the CHV-Z that will allow you to unlock cores , but I've never confirmed that.
> 
> Going to have to go google mining i guess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't the CHV already have core unlocking?
Click to expand...

Yes , the CHV has the ability to unlock an X4 Zosma to an X 6. The CHV-Z using bios versions designed for it does not, but I remember reading about someone using a CHV bios on the Z model and being able to unlock hidden cores. I haven't been able to find where I read that, and did not confirm it at the time - so I wouldn't recommend trying it TBH.


----------



## miklkit

Well, I have given up on this "repaired" Sabertooth and gone back to the GD80. The CPU was the hottest running component and it was generally unstable. Now CPU temps are 10-14C cooler and it is stable at the same or greater vcore.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Well, I have given up on this "repaired" Sabertooth and gone back to the GD80. The CPU was the hottest running component and it was generally unstable. Now CPU temps are 10-14C cooler and it is stable at the same or greater vcore.


MSI! MSI! MSI! dr.mos called and said there's a cold front headed your way


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> MSI! MSI! MSI! dr.mos called and said there's a cold front headed your way


LOL! Good one!


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> MSI! MSI! MSI! dr.mos called and said there's a cold front headed your way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOL! Good one!
Click to expand...











Nurse Tantalum will be applying cold compress's too









The temp advantage is what give the GD-80 a chance to compete with the upper tier boards.


----------



## miklkit

In all fairness the Sabertooth was behaving exactly the opposite of how it worked before I damaged it. Before, the CPU was a little warmer but the VRMs were hot enough to cook off of. Now the CPU was burning up and the VRMs were almost as cool as the GD80 ones. Then there was the instability..............

So now I'm back to a cool stable system @ 4.92ghz. It gets there ridiculously easy but every attempt to go further results in a black screen.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Well, I have given up on this "repaired" Sabertooth and gone back to the GD80. The CPU was the hottest running component and it was generally unstable. Now CPU temps are 10-14C cooler and it is stable at the same or greater vcore.


Not complaining here:


----------



## umeng2002

lol, Dr. Mos failed his medical exam with my old X6 on the GD70 790FX mobo.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> lol, Dr. Mos failed his medical exam with my old X6 on the GD70 790FX mobo.


Physician heal thyself????


----------



## miklkit

I would have been happy if it had run properly, but it didn't. I did learn something and now the GD80 is at 5 ghz but not stable yet. The issue is with the IMC and is like walking a tightrope with instability on one side and black screens on the other. I have yet to see DrMOS over 40C.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I would have been happy if it had run properly, but it didn't. I did learn something and now the GD80 is at 5 ghz but not stable yet. The issue is with the IMC and is like walking a tightrope with instability on one side and black screens on the other. I have yet to see DrMOS over 40C.


It's like someone keeps shaking the thermometer







( that's an old school reference If ever I saw one lol )


----------



## miklkit

My real problem is that I never had to mess with this stuff before, so it is OJT all the way.


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Physician heal thyself????


OC'ing the X6 on the 790FX GD70 blew the Vregs.


----------



## FlawleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> OC'ing the X6 on the 790FX GD70 blew the Vregs.


They need active cooling to have a chance.


----------



## mus1mus

Most 990FX need them anyway.


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlawleZ*
> 
> They need active cooling to have a chance.


Yeah, didn't think of that until it was too late, the Sabertooth had no problems with that CPU though.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> In all fairness the Sabertooth was behaving exactly the opposite of how it worked before I damaged it. Before, the CPU was a little warmer but the VRMs were hot enough to cook off of. Now the CPU was burning up and the VRMs were almost as cool as the GD80 ones. Then there was the instability..............
> 
> So now I'm back to a cool stable system @ 4.92ghz. It gets there ridiculously easy but every attempt to go further results in a black screen.


Time to move to water! No problems here with my VRM, NB and CPU under water with a 360mm and 240mm rad modded into a corsair 500R case. I Kept on telling you that eventually air will only take you so far to go that little bit extra you need to dive into watercooling. Not sure what you're clocks are at atm but last I saw you had NB and HT Links at 2700mhz IIRC, if I push over 2600mhz I really struggle to remain stable.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Most 990FX need them anyway.


This, very much this! So glad I just went water with the VRM because the noise from the fans... Just no need at all.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Yes it does default to 1.4v. I now have it manually set to 1.225v. Dunno if that is too low or not yet. Would 1.3 or 1.35 be better?
> 
> Progress! I found 2 problem areas.
> 
> 1) It seems the Sabertooth does not like overvolted ram. The MSI GD80 I am used to does like it hot so I just automatically set it to 1.62v. So I dropped it a bit and stability has returned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) It seems I wasn't as careful as I should have been when installing the cooler. Compared to the GD80 the CPU socket is set slightly lower and to the rear on the PCB. It is not much and only a ruler shows it, but it just enough so that the rear fan can foul the silver cans for the rear usb ports and lift the cooler off level. This causes bad contact between the heat sink and the ihs. That issue is fixed now and the heat sink is mounted flush. (I like using all these little abbreviations. They make me look like I know what I'm talking about.)
> 
> TL;DR: It is more stable and cooler now.


My Ram is set to 1.71v so disagree there.

Yeah that will cost you some degrees there.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> This OC was from a preset that was stable before. The work had already been done and since all the parts are the same except for a different cooler I expected it to work fine. Only when it didn't want to work did I start tweaking things.


Just because it was stable before doesn't mean it will be now, you've changed things so your OC will need to change too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Well, I have given up on this "repaired" Sabertooth and gone back to the GD80. The CPU was the hottest running component and it was generally unstable. Now CPU temps are 10-14C cooler and it is stable at the same or greater vcore.


I have found that if an OC is unstable due to lack of volts on the CPU it will give you hotter temps, not sure how this correlates to increased temp recordings but it's just something I've found during my testing.

I don't think your board is the issue, I think it's user based, no offence intended in this post btw but through all the testing and overclocking I've done on Air compared to water, water has always won, yet while you're on the brink of blowing the board you remain steadfast in sticking to air in previous posts. I still hit good overclocks with my cpu under water and my VRM on air with half of them not even in contact with the heatsink as asus hadn't repaired the faulty board correctly, my board is an RMA repair.


----------



## miklkit

You are talking to a wall feller. Water will never get inside any computer I own again.

BTW the old OC that was saved was with exactly the same hardware except for a better cooler. The repair didn't work out.

Anyway, it's been nice being here to chat with everybody.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> You are talking to a wall feller. Water will never get inside any computer I own again.
> 
> BTW the old OC that was saved was with exactly the same hardware except for a better cooler. The repair didn't work out.
> 
> Anyway, it's been nice being here to chat with everybody.


But you updated the bios no?..

Don't let the door slam on yourself on the way out, bit of humour for you there with a pun and everything!








I still maintain the board isn't the issue but with you being a wall and all we'll just call it quits.


----------



## Archea47

Hey Team,

Deadalic is alive! One problem - can't run IBT AVX yet:


Has anyone ran into this yet and knows the missing dependency? It's a fresh build of Win7 SP1 (all offered updates supplied) - I imagine there is but am not sure which VCPP or .NET redist' is required

Here are my max temps and Cinebench R15 scores at stock clocks and 2133 RAM settings (9-11-10-28)



I want to get some IBT AVX temps recorded before I start overclocking for comparison


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hey Team,
> 
> Deadalic is alive! One problem - can't run IBT AVX yet:
> 
> 
> Has anyone ran into this yet and knows the missing dependency? It's a fresh build of Win7 SP1 (all offered updates supplied) - I imagine there is but am not sure which VCPP or .NET redist' is required
> 
> Here are my max temps and Cinebench R15 scores at stock clocks and 2133 RAM settings (9-11-10-28)
> 
> 
> 
> I want to get some IBT AVX temps recorded before I start overclocking for comparison


I think it's net framework 4.5 but that's not the error you're getting I don't think


----------



## Archea47

Thanks for the input - FWIW I do have .NET 4.5 and 4.5.1/2 installed and updated but I know I'm shy on some of the VCPP redists.

Has anyone else seen this error?


----------



## mus1mus

Not here.

Maybe verify the file.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> But you updated the bios no?..
> 
> Don't let the door slam on yourself on the way out, bit of humour for you there with a pun and everything!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still maintain the board isn't the issue but with you being a wall and all we'll just call it quits.


As usual you completely misunderstand. I still have the Sabertooth as a backup. I was referring to the fact that I am getting to know the moderators entirely too well.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> As usual you completely misunderstand. I still have the Sabertooth as a backup. I was referring to the fact that I am getting to know the moderators entirely too well.












If the board is faulty like you say it is then it's probably best to send it to asus or throw it in the bin.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> In all fairness the Sabertooth was behaving exactly the opposite of how it worked before I damaged it. Before, the CPU was a little warmer but the VRMs were hot enough to cook off of. Now the CPU was burning up and the VRMs were almost as cool as the GD80 ones. Then there was the instability..............
> 
> So now I'm back to a cool stable system @ 4.92ghz. It gets there ridiculously easy but every attempt to go further results in a black screen.


Sorry to hear that the repair didn't work out for you.

I know the disappointment if you get a "repaired" board back.. I had to deal with that with my UD5 and i was so mad at the store because normally they don't do repaired boards but give you a new one if you are still under warranty of the retail store. Fortunately i got my money back and now i am "almost" an happy Sabertooth user.

Are you still under warranty? If i were you i would return the board or go to the retail store you bought it from and let them handle it.

Besides, normally they just swap the boards because they never perform like before and in some cases its even cheaper to swap the entire unit anyways.

Good luck man


----------



## miklkit

Since I damaged the board myself I don't think they would RMA it. Not that I have considered doing that anyway. It works well enough to be a backup, but not good enough for every day use.


----------



## XDRM

hello guys can the admin add me????just finished setting up this mobo.....


----------



## warpuck

Water is good, but if you use it 6-8 hours every day plan on draining, flushing & cleaning and flushing some more every 8-12 months. Cleaning the water block is tedious. Note that the bristles on a tooth brush are wider than the groves cut into the block. Had to use a needle.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> Water is good, but if you use it 6-8 hours every day plan on draining, flushing & cleaning and flushing some more every 8-12 months. Cleaning the water block is tedious. Note that the bristles on a tooth brush are wider than the groves cut into the block. Had to use a needle.


Maybe time for you to consider what you are doing or your components.

Use proper coolants.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> Water is good, but if you use it 6-8 hours every day plan on draining, flushing & cleaning and flushing some more every 8-12 months. Cleaning the water block is tedious. Note that the bristles on a tooth brush are wider than the groves cut into the block. Had to use a needle.


You can do plenty of other things to clean the grooves, I need to take apart my loop soon when I convert to hardline tubing so will try and find the best possible method while keeping it simple.

EDIT: Scratch that lol I have nickle plated cpu block which I cant use anything aggressive on.


----------



## mus1mus

Nickel blocks are pretty good these days. And dishwahing soap will not harm it bad.

My evo doesnt stain yet. But I have had a handful, maybe more, water chains so far.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Nickel blocks are pretty good these days. And dishwahing soap will not harm it bad.
> 
> My evo doesnt stain yet. But I have had a handful, maybe more, water chains so far.


Yeah EK says to use soapy water on their blog so I'll do that and try some different brushes from the dental isle like those tiny ones for in between your teeth.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Yeah EK says to use soapy water on their blog so I'll do that and try some different brushes from the dental isle like those tiny ones for in between your teeth.


I'm not sure what kind of tooth brushes you guys have but toothbrush works fine on my apogee hd block...are ek blocks channels tighter?


----------



## Jflisk

I had to use a little ketchup and a tooth brush on mine cleaned up pretty good.


----------



## THC Butterz

I have been cooling my loop with distilled and some copper sulfate plus a kill coil for good measure, I havent had to clean mine in almost 2 years and its still clean as a whistle!


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I used a premix from xspc and I looked in my loop a few months ago after a year of running it thinking it would need cleaning... nope... was perfect... so I refilled with the same premix and let it go... even at 5ghz under max stress temps barely bump 50C under max stress I can muster (prime 95 for a long time).... Ibt avx edition only hit cores up to 42.6 C during a very high run... my "in game" temps in the worst game for cpu usage I have runs in the mid to upper 30's unless I let the room get hot then it'll hit low 40's with ambients reaching 80F


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I used a premix from xspc and I looked in my loop a few months ago after a year of running it thinking it would need cleaning... nope... was perfect... so I refilled with the same premix and let it go... even at 5ghz under max stress temps barely bump 50C under max stress I can muster (prime 95 for a long time).... Ibt avx edition only hit cores up to 42.6 C during a very high run... my "in game" temps in the worst game for cpu usage I have runs in the mid to upper 30's unless I let the room get hot then it'll hit low 40's with ambients reaching 80F


Man I wish my temps where that impressive! I do wonder if my higher temps are related to my gpu being air cooled as it dumps 60c worth of heat into my case which then feeds my triple rad.


----------



## mus1mus

What temps are you getting?

5.0 at 1.488 nets me temps that are below what can be considered false readouts on our chips. Doesnt go above 30C inside a sub-20C room. lol

Your gpu cant dump 60C unless your reading more than 80C on them methinks.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> What temps are you getting?
> 
> 5.0 at 1.488 nets me temps that are below what can be considered false readouts on our chips. Doesnt go above 30C inside a sub-20C room. lol
> 
> Your gpu cant dump 60C unless your reading more than 80C on them methinks.


Ok all i know is my gpu pumps out heat that is well above what I consider warm to the touch







my CPU is at 1.56v idle and 1.58 load so yeah, lol. idle socket temp is 38-46c browsing and youtube cpu temp is unreadable but usually sits right on target with the socket temp under decent load.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Ok all i know is my gpu pumps out heat that is well above what I consider warm to the touch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my CPU is at 1.56v idle and 1.58 load so yeah, lol. idle socket temp is 38-46c browsing and youtube cpu temp is unreadable but usually sits right on target with the socket temp under decent load.


Air flow starved you reckon?

What's the air optimisation on your case?

In a note though, my CPU at 1.58V would heat up to 50+C. So yeah. And I would check the block - CPU mount just for assurance.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> Water is good, but if you use it 6-8 hours every day plan on draining, flushing & cleaning and flushing some more every 8-12 months. Cleaning the water block is tedious. Note that the bristles on a tooth brush are wider than the groves cut into the block. Had to use a needle.


Cleaning is hard but you use pressure makes it easy.

However I think you need to look into making blanket statements. Your useage does not mean you need to clean your loop more often. My loop used to be in 24-7 however I can't leave it on due to the baby ( she would get to cold as I either leave the fan on or w.e overnight. ) it has been up for well over 1.5 years no maint. I don't know why you feel you need to clean it. But you don't.

My loop is due for a flush though


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Air flow starved you reckon?
> 
> What's the air optimisation on your case?
> 
> In a note though, my CPU at 1.58V would heat up to 50+C. So yeah. And I would check the block - CPU mount just for assurance.


Air is optimised pretty well, 2 fans in the front as intake, 1 fan at the back intaking and 3 fans on top as exhaust, I generally run my fans on the triple rad a little quicker but not my much than the intake fans due to the high fpi of the triple. I just think it's the voltage buddy and ambient temps, our flat gets pretty hot even though we don't have the heating on, because it's a big complex I think we get everyone else's heat.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Air is optimised pretty well, 2 fans in the front as intake, 1 fan at the back intaking and 3 fans on top as exhaust, I generally run my fans on the triple rad a little quicker but not my much than the intake fans due to the high fpi of the triple. I just think it's the voltage buddy and ambient temps, our flat gets pretty hot even though we don't have the heating on, because it's a big complex I think we get everyone else's heat.


I did have gpu issues in the past with extra heat... but I added a small hairdryer fan (not literally, just has a whine to it from the 5000+rpm) and it solved my gpu heating up the case issue... i put it right beside the two gpu's as exhaust... really helped all temps in the case during gaming case temps don't get to 40+ C anymore lol...

right now I've not played any games yet... but since I turned my pc on, cpu usage has hit 70% and temps only hit 32.3C cores and 33C socket... not bad for 5ghz I don't think... oh, and this 5ghz is based on the one I used in the 5ghz 24/7 club that I provided screenies of IBT AVX tests on one of which was on very high.. I've tested it otherwise since then... but don't know if I took screenshots or not.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I did have gpu issues in the past with extra heat... but I added a small hairdryer fan (not literally, just has a whine to it from the 5000+rpm) and it solved my gpu heating up the case issue... i put it right beside the two gpu's as exhaust... really helped all temps in the case during gaming case temps don't get to 40+ C anymore lol...
> 
> right now I've not played any games yet... but since I turned my pc on, cpu usage has hit 70% and temps only hit 32.3C cores and 33C socket... not bad for 5ghz I don't think... oh, and this 5ghz is based on the one I used in the 5ghz 24/7 club that I provided screenies of IBT AVX tests on one of which was on very high.. I've tested it otherwise since then... but don't know if I took screenshots or not.


Going to put a fan on the floor of my case at some point to push air up but I need to decide if I'm keeping the rear fan as intake or swap it to exhaust or I'll have 4 fans intaking air and 3 exhausting through a rad and that means the air will be pretty positive by a long mile.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Going to put a fan on the floor of my case at some point to push air up but I need to decide if I'm keeping the rear fan as intake or swap it to exhaust or I'll have 4 fans intaking air and 3 exhausting through a rad and that means the air will be pretty positive by a long mile.


no that will make it nearly neutral.... if you say had five intake and two exhaust that would be fairly positive pressure... most people aiming for extreme positive pressure have one exhaust.....i have three exhaust and (edit: 7) intake... but mines still not extremely positive...


----------



## mus1mus

I would of just configure all rad fans as intake and a single higher rpm fan as exhaust near the IO.

If you don't push-pull, the intake fans actually face much higher restriction due to the rads that air flow past them will be much lower. A single exhaust fan will be more efficient as exhaust due to lesser restriction.









I know someone here is more adept on this one. Being an air cooling advocate himself.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I would of just configure all rad fans as intake and a single higher rpm fan as exhaust near the IO.
> 
> If you don't push-pull, the intake fans actually face much higher restriction due to the rads that air flow past them will be much lower. A single exhaust fan will be more efficient as exhaust due to lesser restriction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know someone here is more adept on this one. Being an air cooling advocate himself.


The front rad isn't restrictive I could put AF fans on there and it would be fine, the exhausts up top however is a different story on my 30mm thick rad. It wouldn't be neutral if I put the floor fan down it would be positive.


----------



## miklkit

Case airflow can get really complicated really fast and since no two systems are exactly the same a lot of trial and error testing is needed to find the best solution for THAT case.

In general terms the difference between positive pressure and negative pressure is what kind of air do you want flowing through your case? Positive pressure means you have filtered air and negative pressure means you have some unfiltered air in your case. I vote positive pressure for that reason.

Filtered air means that the intake fans need to be very powerful as filters can reduce air flow by as much as 50%. That is why most people have more intake fans than exhaust fans as you want the overall flow to be the same between intake and exhaust. One way to see what you have is to take off the side panels and look at all the seams and joints. If dust is collecting there you have a negative pressure case.

I know very little about water cooling setups but it seems to me that you would want the radiators to be set up as exhausts. That would have cool intake air flowing over the motherboard components. Let's say that you have a radiator in the front of the case. I don't know how much heat is exchanged by a radiator but I have measured as much as a 7C difference between intake and exhaust air with my radiators. I have also seen a 4C difference in GPU air.

So if you have a radiator in the front of the case and the ambient air is 22C you have 29C air blowing into the case. Add another 4C and you have 33C air inside your case flowing over the ram, North Bridge, CPU, and VRMs. They add a little more heat as well, so it is easy to see why things overheat in there.

Banjiw has a rear intake for a chimney effect and hopefully some cool air blowing on his VRMs.

Vertical air flow seems to be ok for water cooling but is death to air cooling. Air cooling demands horizontal air flow and a clear separation of intake air and GPU exhaust. If 4C warmer GPU exhaust air gets into the intake air stream, then the CPU is going to run 4C hotter. I have seen this first hand. People have gone so far as to put baffles and air dams inside their cases to keep them separate.

Actually the concept of pressure is the wrong way to think about it as there is very little pressure differential inside the case. What is happening is flow. The idea is to direct the air flow where it will do the most good without leaving any pockets of dead hot air. My solution is four intake fans in the front and top front feeding the CPU cooler and then the CPU fans are the exhaust blowing out a big gaping hole in the back of the case. There is no pressure, just flow. I also mount the GPU in the bottom PCIE slot to keep it as far away from the CPU and VRMs as possible.

Hopefully there is something here to help you guys out.


----------



## Mega Man

What? Positive pressure means nothing about being filtered ....

And vertical or horizontal has nothing to do with Air flow being good or bad. ..

I don't even know what else to say about that post.... wow
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Going to put a fan on the floor of my case at some point to push air up but I need to decide if I'm keeping the rear fan as intake or swap it to exhaust or I'll have 4 fans intaking air and 3 exhausting through a rad and that means the air will be pretty positive by a long mile.
> 
> 
> 
> no that will make it nearly neutral.... if you say had five intake and two exhaust that would be fairly positive pressure... most people aiming for extreme positive pressure have one exhaust.....i have three exhaust and (edit: 7) intake... but mines still not extremely positive...
Click to expand...

People need to so thinking more fans in makes positive pressure.

The number of fans means nothing.

I can put 20 fans in and 1 out and still have negative pressure.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> What? Positive pressure means nothing about being filtered ....
> 
> And vertical or horizontal has nothing to do with Air flow being good or bad. ..
> 
> I don't even know what else to say about that post.... wow
> People need to so thinking more fans in makes positive pressure.
> 
> The number of fans means nothing.
> 
> I can put 20 fans in and 1 out and still have negative pressure.


I'd like to see that in a closed case that's not the huge gun cabinet style caselabs you bought


----------



## miklkit

Well, if you choose to not have any filters, then it would make no difference. Your choice. I forgot that there are still people who do not use filters.

For water cooling it makes no difference but for air cooling those that know what they are talking about all say horizontal air flow is best. I studied under the masters, applied their principles, and they do work.

I did that when I first started with this case. I had 5 stock 30cfm case fans behind filters and 1-110cfm exhaust fan and it had negative pressure and quickly filled with dirt. Learned my lesson and now have a positive pressure case that stays pretty clean. The intakes are now 74-110 cfm and there is no case exhaust fan.


----------



## Mike The Owl

"I'd like to see that in a closed case that's not the huge gun cabinet style caselabs you bought"

You called?



I know its not quite 20, but it's A lot!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> "I'd like to see that in a closed case that's not the huge gun cabinet style caselabs you bought"
> 
> You called?
> 
> 
> 
> I know its not quite 20, but it's A lot!


and you have negative pressure? That was kinda the point







I have five 140s-(3 phanteks and two bgears) and 2 120 cougars as intake...and a 140 phanteks and two cougars as exhaust and its positive pressure but not extremely positive...but the airflow and its pattern is good that's what matters most to me


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> and you have negative pressure?


Everything in, haf 922 with lots of holes, no dust, no filters, mus1mus recommended!
So not negative...


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Banjiw has a rear intake for a chimney effect and hopefully some cool air blowing on his VRMs.


As usual you misunderstand, my VRM are liquid cooled, we've had this discussion several times.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> What? Positive pressure means nothing about being filtered ....
> 
> And vertical or horizontal has nothing to do with Air flow being good or bad. ..
> 
> I don't even know what else to say about that post.... wow
> People need to so thinking more fans in makes positive pressure.
> 
> The number of fans means nothing.
> 
> I can put 20 fans in and 1 out and still have negative pressure.


True there is more to it than that like the speed of each fan and the resistance for them too. 2 of my intake fans are unrestricted and 2 intake fans are pulling air through my front rad so there is some restriction there. All my fans are SP120 fans too. my 3 exhaust fans are pulling air through my triple rad.


----------



## warpuck

http://watercool.de/en/heatkiller-cpu-rev30-0

I got the copper one. It does look nice on a Extreme9 board

There was piece of cloth like material about he size of a pea that made it's way to the block after about 8 months of use. It may have come from the water I used from the 1st flush or just came that way in the radiator. I shoved the vinyl tube into the faucet let it run for 6 minutes. Used on the entire loop. I figure if it did not leak when flushing, it would not leak when powered. The 2nd flush was powered with distilled water. I used clear EK coolant after that. The channels cut in the water block are smaller than the bristles on a standard Colgate adult tooth brush. Copper sulfate sounds good to me. Used to us it to keep drain system clear on septic fields.
I may have to go to another state can't buy it here anymore cuz they worried about it getting into ground water:buttkick:
Maybe the nickle block may have been a better choice

I will post some pictures, if I can find the USB cable for the camera
FOUND IT. Funny old 2007 lumix does not work with Win 8.1. Works fine with Win 7





Yes the old Sabertooth R1 was a better board. If I had been using a Asus HD7870 when it failed. Asus may have replaced them both? This does OK with(FX-9590) 4650 base and 5150 turbo overclock and it automatically loaded and set the ram to 2400. Does 2450 without problems or effort. I guess you could call the Extreme9 a lazy overclockers board. Now I am using Primochill flush with distilled water, flushed that. Then filled with what was available at Micro center for Coolant 1/2 and 1/2 EKWB and Distilled. Drained that. Final fill was 3 parts distilled water and 1 part red coolant. Have been looking for some PT Nuc to add to it. Although 1 gram of copper sulfate would do just fine. I guess


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> What? Positive pressure means nothing about being filtered ....
> 
> And vertical or horizontal has nothing to do with Air flow being good or bad. ..
> 
> I don't even know what else to say about that post.... wow
> People need to so thinking more fans in makes positive pressure.
> 
> The number of fans means nothing.
> 
> I can put 20 fans in and 1 out and still have negative pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like to see that in a closed case that's not the huge gun cabinet style caselabs you bought
Click to expand...

really wouldn't be hard ill use 20 of these

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA85V3DG9790

and one of these

http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-120mm-D1225C12B7AP-31/dp/B005DMHFLM

aka this




at full speed ... neg pressure

and for milkit the intakes will have deci filters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Well, if you choose to not have any filters, then it would make no difference. Your choice. I forgot that there are still people who do not use filters.
> 
> For water cooling it makes no difference but for air cooling those that know what they are talking about all say horizontal air flow is best. I studied under the masters, applied their principles, and they do work.
> 
> I did that when I first started with this case. I had 5 stock 30cfm case fans behind filters and 1-110cfm exhaust fan and it had negative pressure and quickly filled with dirt. Learned my lesson and now have a positive pressure case that stays pretty clean. The intakes are now 74-110 cfm and there is no case exhaust fan.


you attempt to take a "cookie cutter" solution to everything.

you were correct about one thing.

there are too many variables.-

you cant take a cookie cutter to a hand molded problem


----------



## miklkit

With that setup you wouldn't need intakes at all, but you will need earplugs for the noise.

Cookie cutter? Nope. Basic physics.Pulling hot GPU exhaust air into the CPU cooler intake stream makes the CPU run hotter.


----------



## Mega Man

you make more assumptions.

who says my gpu is pulling anything to my cpu ? what if i have a reference blower ? what if my i/o is at the top of the case and thus negates your whole arguments * cough silverstone cases * ? what if i use a 295x2?

what if i am pulling air from before the gpu and not from the gpu up to the cpu

so many variables.

too many for your cookie cutter solution


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> With that setup you wouldn't need intakes at all, but you will need earplugs for the noise.
> 
> Cookie cutter? Nope. Basic physics.Pulling hot GPU exhaust air into the CPU cooler intake stream makes the CPU run hotter.


Which setup mine? or MegaMan's? You still need an intake of some form or you'll just be pulling air from cracks and openings.

I've got to admit Miklit, you do seem to jump a lot to conclusion in the time I've seen you post, you changed so many of your variables on your 5ghz overclock that when you loaded it up your first instance was to blame your motherboard which still might be at fault, I'm not sure without having it in front of me but still, I would hazard a guessat your new OS (didn't you say you put win 10 on it? and the original OC was win 7?) You say your VRM are cooler than your chip which I said if the OC is unstable you will get wrong readings on your temps for the CPU from my own testing with a rev 1 sabretooth. Sorry if you feel as though I'm attacking you here but I'm not the only one noticing things.


----------



## miklkit

I said nothing about your GPU as I was talking in general terms. This is the first line from my first post on this subject.

"Case airflow can get really complicated really fast and since no two systems are exactly the same a lot of trial and error testing is needed to find the best solution for THAT case."

Frankly I could care less what YOUR specific situation is as I have always been talking in general terms. And by far most users have off the shelf cases that are pretty similar.

Benjiw: I didn't know you had a waterblock on your VRMs and tomorrow I will have forgotten it as watercooling is no concern of mine. You did say you had a fan on the back.

I really don't know what you are saying. What first instance? The one last week or the one last year? When it comes to my setups, the only constant is change. I am actually in a lull as I haven't changed anything in 2 whole days.

Regarding the OS, I changed that while on the Sabertooth from win8.1 to winX and noticed no change in temps or stability. I did try many different settings and while lower voltages let it run cooler it never did pass any stress test. I am quite happy with this GD80 now even if it is only running at 4.96ghz stable.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> really wouldn't be hard ill use 20 of these
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA85V3DG9790
> 
> and one of these
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-120mm-D1225C12B7AP-31/dp/B005DMHFLM
> 
> aka this


That is the most inaccurate way of measuring fan noise ever.. I looked up my Noctua NF-F12 industrial 3000 and they made an terrible noise, that video actually prevented me from buying them sooner to be honest.

When i ordered them and connected them to my fan controller and start to listen to them, i discovered that they made less noise than my stock Corsair SP120 2600 RPM fans.. The sound they make is not even near the video's these guys made about this particular fan..

At full blast they are loud yes, but less irritating than the Corsair ones which are ridiculously poor build quality int he first place.

On another note, i set my exhaust fan to intake so that the radiator fans can suck fresh cool air from outside of the case. I have another 200 mm intake fan in the front of my case. I choose for this setup because i discovered that my radiator fans sucked all the air from the case at full blast, that resulted in higher temps on the rest of my components. Now when i set my aerocool shark 120 mm fan as an intake instead of exhaust i get lower temps. I don't know how much but its worth it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> really wouldn't be hard ill use 20 of these
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA85V3DG9790
> 
> and one of these
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-120mm-D1225C12B7AP-31/dp/B005DMHFLM
> 
> aka this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at full speed ... neg pressure
> 
> and for milkit the intakes will have deci filters
> you attempt to take a "cookie cutter" solution to everything.
> 
> you were correct about one thing.
> 
> there are too many variables.-
> 
> you cant take a cookie cutter to a hand molded problem


so... 20 fans a approximately 33cfm all intake wont create positive pressure with one fan at 151? I must be way off on my concept of positive pressure.. i know you cant simply multiply the cfm and compare...but doesnt the positive/negative pressure aspect depend largly on the amount of areas for air to escape? And the airflow in vs out... im confused as to how this wouldnt be positive pressure? even with filters its hard for me to wrap my head around how this wouldnt be positive pressure...maybe im dense but









EDIT: does this occur because doing a straight conversion of h/m to cfm isnt correct in a direct scenario like that? what would be the proper math to show more cfm out than in?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> really wouldn't be hard ill use 20 of these
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA85V3DG9790
> 
> and one of these
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-120mm-D1225C12B7AP-31/dp/B005DMHFLM
> 
> aka this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is the most inaccurate way of measuring fan noise ever.. I looked up my Noctua NF-F12 industrial 3000 and they made an terrible noise, that video actually prevented me from buying them sooner to be honest.
> 
> When i ordered them and connected them to my fan controller and start to listen to them, i discovered that they made less noise than my stock Corsair SP120 2600 RPM fans.. The sound they make is not even near the video's these guys made about this particular fan..
> 
> At full blast they are loud yes, but less irritating than the Corsair ones which are ridiculously poor build quality int he first place.
> 
> On another note, i set my exhaust fan to intake so that the radiator fans can suck fresh cool air from outside of the case. I have another 200 mm intake fan in the front of my case. I choose for this setup because i discovered that my radiator fans sucked all the air from the case at full blast, that resulted in higher temps on the rest of my components. Now when i set my aerocool shark 120 mm fan as an intake instead of exhaust i get lower temps. I don't know how much but its worth it.
Click to expand...

it isnt ment to show sound anything ? but rather rpm response ( not exact mind you ) vs voltage

esp helpful for me at min startup voltage needed ( now mine are pwm however )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> really wouldn't be hard ill use 20 of these
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA85V3DG9790
> 
> and one of these
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-120mm-D1225C12B7AP-31/dp/B005DMHFLM
> 
> aka this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at full speed ... neg pressure
> 
> and for milkit the intakes will have deci filters
> you attempt to take a "cookie cutter" solution to everything.
> 
> you were correct about one thing.
> 
> there are too many variables.-
> 
> you cant take a cookie cutter to a hand molded problem
> 
> 
> 
> so... 20 fans a approximately 33cfm all intake wont create positive pressure with one fan at 151? I must be way off on my concept of positive pressure.. i know you cant simply multiply the cfm and compare...but doesnt the positive/negative pressure aspect depend largly on the amount of areas for air to escape? And the airflow in vs out... im confused as to how this wouldnt be positive pressure? even with filters its hard for me to wrap my head around how this wouldnt be positive pressure...maybe im dense but
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: does this occur because doing a straight conversion of h/m to cfm isnt correct in a direct scenario like that? what would be the proper math to show more cfm out than in?
Click to expand...

pressure is not CFM the intake fans are not at all optimized for static pressure where as the exhaust is that fan is pretty amazing when comparing the specs


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> so... 20 fans a approximately 33cfm all intake wont create positive pressure with one fan at 151? I must be way off on my concept of positive pressure.. i know you cant simply multiply the cfm and compare...but doesnt the positive/negative pressure aspect depend largly on the amount of areas for air to escape? And the airflow in vs out... im confused as to how this wouldnt be positive pressure? even with filters its hard for me to wrap my head around how this wouldnt be positive pressure...maybe im dense but
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: does this occur because doing a straight conversion of h/m to cfm isnt correct in a direct scenario like that? what would be the proper math to show more cfm out than in?


What happens is that, those 20 fans are rather weak in static pressure. When faced with a restriction such as a radiator, their air flow lessens considerably. Add in a filter and you will be looking at a very low airflow across and past the radiator. Even if you multiply that amount of airflow to the total number of fans, you will get a lower value compared to the one on the exhaust which is also unfiltered. Thus still negative pressure.

Also note - PQ curve for fans matters. Static Pressure maximum is minimum Air Flow and vice versa. So if you have a restriction that saturates that Static Pressure spec'd for the fan, you will have minimum air flow.

Even if you use the same fans all around, you need to consider their performance when faced to a restriction such as Radiator, Filter, HDD Bays etc.

Now based on experience, Negative Pressure gave me better temps. Especially when using those industrial grade high static pressure fans. Not considering dust build-up of course.







But if you are keen on keeping the system clean, temp performance can be sacrificed a bit.


----------



## Benjiw

Man this entire thread has gone negative, me and mr blanket statement can't seem to get along.









Anyway, I'm so tempted to pull the trigger on some rigid tubing but I need a heatgun too and well I've got bills to pay, being an adult sucks!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it isnt ment to show sound anything ? but rather rpm response ( not exact mind you ) vs voltage
> 
> esp helpful for me at min startup voltage needed ( now mine are pwm however )
> pressure is not CFM the intake fans are not at all optimized for static pressure where as the exhaust is that fan is pretty amazing when comparing the specs


i was under the impression that most fans with higher cfm have decent static pressure as i couldnt find any sp measurments on the noctua fans i tried the measurement they did have which is where i errored... i see now that i was in fact thinking of positive/negative pressure incorrectly thanks for that i was thinking all that air flowing would generate pressure not thinking about the fact it seeps from every hole it can because it isnt sealed so pressure wouldnt build up... durr smh







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> What happens is that, those 20 fans are rather weak in static pressure. When faced with a restriction such as a radiator, their air flow lessens considerably. Add in a filter and you will be looking at a very low airflow across and past the radiator. Even if you multiply that amount of airflow to the total number of fans, you will get a lower value compared to the one on the exhaust which is also unfiltered. Thus still negative pressure.
> 
> Also note - PQ curve for fans matters. Static Pressure maximum is minimum Air Flow and vice versa. So if you have a restriction that saturates that Static Pressure spec'd for the fan, you will have minimum air flow.
> 
> Even if you use the same fans all around, you need to consider their performance when faced to a restriction such as Radiator, Filter, HDD Bays etc.
> 
> Now based on experience, Negative Pressure gave me better temps. Especially when using those industrial grade high static pressure fans. Not considering dust build-up of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if you are keen on keeping the system clean, temp performance can be sacrificed a bit.


Gotcha i was thinking of airflow in cfm when static pressure was what i was looking for it makes sense though now that i thought about it and after your confirmation....in most cases people wouldnt have a fan like the noctua examples megaman cited as case fans and most certainly not rad fans (at least i would hope) but i do see his point... im going to be looking into getting some new fans soon the cougars are ok and i like the phanteks fans but i need some better rad fans the b gears fans have good static pressure but they are very loud at full speed...(140's)im thinking of the parvum fans or the vardars for my rads unless i can find some gt's or such at a decent price.... the worst case fans ive seen so far came with the apevia dreamer case i bought first before this pro... my god they were garbage... and daisy chained molex connectors.... ugghh they didnt move as much air as me spinning the top from a soda cup







... but i will consider what was said here when referencing pressures in the future and when i buy some new fans for my rads....the cougars are pretty quiet but they dont have the static pressure for good rad fans which is why they are doing case duty









On topic though the cougar fans do a good job of socket fan and vrm fan as they do move air around pretty well...and it just so happens the vrm fan fits snugly between my waterblock fitting and the rear fan frame of the 140 phanteks fan so i dont have to attach it and it doesnt put undue pressure on the fitting so no issue there either


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Man this entire thread has gone negative, me and mr blanket statement can't seem to get along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I'm so tempted to pull the trigger on some rigid tubing but I need a heatgun too and well I've got bills to pay, being an adult sucks!


a good bending rig helps too... some people make their own but it so much easier with a jig to do the bends... will take a lot less time... we used to use them when doing plumbing and appliances.... believe it or not against our advice some people actually want their icemakers and such hardlined in with pvc... we tell them they will need plumbing skills or a plumber when simply moving out the fridge but some people just cant hide that money...eventually after a few call backs and charges they usually opt for the standard flexible water lines or the 1/8 - 1/4 inch plastic lines.. or when their son or daughter pulls out the fridge and snaps the pvc off...some people.... even had one guy request that we use polished copper for his water line to his icemaker....six months later.... we got a work order for flex line and a new pump... he had tried to move the fridge out and pulled the entire pump out of the back of the fridge... not to mention flooded the floor and his cabinet bottoms because he didnt know how the quarter turn valve worked despite us showing him numerous times lol....


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Man this entire thread has gone negative, me and mr blanket statement can't seem to get along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I'm so tempted to pull the trigger on some rigid tubing but I need a heatgun too and well I've got bills to pay, *being an adult sucks!*


I hear ya on that. I have been trying to get a case for meself but always hit road blocks on bills I need to pay.









When you do rigid, GO for ACRYLIC and don't think about PETG.







Or make the mistake I did.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Gotcha i was thinking of airflow in cfm when static pressure was what i was looking for it makes sense though now that i thought about it and after your confirmation....in most cases people wouldnt have a fan like the noctua examples megaman cited as case fans and most certainly not rad fans (at least i would hope) but i do see his point... im going to be looking into getting some new fans soon the cougars are ok and i like the phanteks fans but i need some better rad fans the b gears fans have good static pressure but they are very loud at full speed...(140's)im thinking of the parvum fans or the vardars for my rads unless i can find some gt's or such at a decent price.... the worst case fans ive seen so far came with the apevia dreamer case i bought first before this pro... my god they were garbage... and daisy chained molex connectors.... ugghh they didnt move as much air as me spinning the top from a soda cup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... but i will consider what was said here when referencing pressures in the future and when i buy some new fans for my rads....the cougars are pretty quiet but they dont have the static pressure for good rad fans which is why they are doing case duty


Don't underestimate those Cougars.







They move almost the same amount of air in open and faced with a rad on mine.









Fact is, They are poor for Case fans. But should be enough for rad duties. All while considering they are spinning 1200 - 1300 RPM. They are also better than those 1200 RPM E-loops I sold that came with my Nexxxos kit. Cougar Vortex fans should be better at 2000 RPM No more 2000RPM







1500 will do for the PWM models.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it isnt ment to show sound anything ? but rather rpm response ( not exact mind you ) vs voltage
> 
> esp helpful for me at min startup voltage needed ( now mine are pwm however )
> pressure is not CFM the intake fans are not at all optimized for static pressure where as the exhaust is that fan is pretty amazing when comparing the specs
> 
> 
> 
> i was under the impression that most fans with higher cfm have decent static pressure as i couldnt find any sp measurments on the noctua fans i tried the measurement they did have which is where i errored... i see now that i was in fact thinking of positive/negative pressure incorrectly thanks for that i was thinking all that air flowing would generate pressure not thinking about the fact it seeps from every hole it can because it isnt sealed so pressure wouldnt build up... durr smh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> What happens is that, those 20 fans are rather weak in static pressure. When faced with a restriction such as a radiator, their air flow lessens considerably. Add in a filter and you will be looking at a very low airflow across and past the radiator. Even if you multiply that amount of airflow to the total number of fans, you will get a lower value compared to the one on the exhaust which is also unfiltered. Thus still negative pressure.
> 
> Also note - PQ curve for fans matters. Static Pressure maximum is minimum Air Flow and vice versa. So if you have a restriction that saturates that Static Pressure spec'd for the fan, you will have minimum air flow.
> 
> Even if you use the same fans all around, you need to consider their performance when faced to a restriction such as Radiator, Filter, HDD Bays etc.
> 
> Now based on experience, Negative Pressure gave me better temps. Especially when using those industrial grade high static pressure fans. Not considering dust build-up of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if you are keen on keeping the system clean, temp performance can be sacrificed a bit.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Gotcha i was thinking of airflow in cfm when static pressure was what i was looking for it makes sense though now that i thought about it and after your confirmation....in most cases people wouldnt have a fan like the noctua examples megaman cited as case fans and most certainly not rad fans (at least i would hope) but i do see his point... im going to be looking into getting some new fans soon the cougars are ok and i like the phanteks fans but i need some better rad fans the b gears fans have good static pressure but they are very loud at full speed...(140's)im thinking of the parvum fans or the vardars for my rads unless i can find some gt's or such at a decent price.... the worst case fans ive seen so far came with the apevia dreamer case i bought first before this pro... my god they were garbage... and daisy chained molex connectors.... ugghh they didnt move as much air as me spinning the top from a soda cup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... but i will consider what was said here when referencing pressures in the future and when i buy some new fans for my rads....the cougars are pretty quiet but they dont have the static pressure for good rad fans which is why they are doing case duty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On topic though the cougar fans do a good job of socket fan and vrm fan as they do move air around pretty well...and it just so happens the vrm fan fits snugly between my waterblock fitting and the rear fan frame of the 140 phanteks fan so i dont have to attach it and it doesnt put undue pressure on the fitting so no issue there either
Click to expand...

your fine we are all learning,

one thing i will point out is i picked those fans for a reason, look at the blades of the nocutra vs the GTs ( even the low speed version )

http://www.amazon.com/Nidec-Gentle-Typhoon-D1225C12B5AP-Silent/dp/B001Q6RUVO

you can see the difference between CFM fans and static pressure fans


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> your fine we are all learning,
> 
> one thing i will point out is i picked those fans for a reason, look at the blades of the nocutra vs the GTs ( even the low speed version )
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Nidec-Gentle-Typhoon-D1225C12B5AP-Silent/dp/B001Q6RUVO
> 
> you can see the difference between CFM fans and static pressure fans


So its generally the close spacing and curvature and angle of the blades allow it to produce more static pressure i mean those noctua fans were horrible five blades spaced half inch apart... didnt appear to really be angled either... ive noticed a lot of the fans that people recommend all the time have 8 or more blades closely spaced with a sharp angle and curvature....


----------



## Mega Man

correct that helps, the gts have a large hub, which helps to reduce noise and also the blades have relatively tight tolerances to the frame ( also helps to reduce noise ) the last 2 are hard to find in most fans which is one of the reasons the gts have held on to top dog for so long in terms of rad fans


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> So its generally the close spacing and curvature and angle of the blades allow it to produce more static pressure i mean those noctua fans were horrible five blades spaced half inch apart... didnt appear to really be angled either... ive noticed a lot of the fans that people recommend all the time have 8 or more blades closely spaced with a sharp angle and curvature....


It's not about the number of blades but really just blade design IMO. Things like Sweep angle and such. There are 3-Blade fans that have strong SPs you know.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> correct that helps, the gts have a large hub, which helps to reduce noise and also the blades have relatively tight tolerances to the frame ( also helps to reduce noise ) the last 2 are hard to find in most fans which is one of the reasons the gts have held on to top dog for so long in terms of rad fans


It's not just SP that propelled the GTs to current fame and greatness. I knew several fans that can beat a GT in raw SP and Airflow at same speeds. But,

You are looking at a fan that has Higher SP to Noise Ratio and Speed to Noise Ratio than most fans in the market if not having the Highest.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> It's not about the number of blades but really just blade design IMO. Things like Sweep angle and such. There are 3-Blade fans that have strong SPs you know.
> It's not just SP that propelled the GTs to current fame and greatness. I knew several fans that can beat a GT in raw SP and Airflow at same speeds. But,
> 
> You are looking at a fan that has Higher SP to Noise Ratio and Speed to Noise Ratio than most fans in the market if not having the Highest.


really id like to see that... i dont think ive seen a fan with less than 4 blades at that scale... its common with larger fans because they just need to move air cfm is the main factor....i remembered reading the thread that was posted here comparing a lot of rad fans.. gts won every time noise to performance ratio but honestly only three or so fans iirc were better in static pressure though at higher speeds and in one case quite a lot louder.... im not a stickler for silent pc at all.....but getting better fans would also mean the fiance's pc gets my fans which are quite a bit better than the sickeflow and phanteks fans (on the 12dx cooler) in her case... (i think she also has one of my cougars as an intake)


----------



## mus1mus

You haven't seen these? Delta EFBs.




They're good but not on par to a 7-Blade AFB in terms of Noise and Performance. And AFBs will smother GT at same speeds for a little more noise.

I especially love this one now. Quieter and has a milder tone than the AFBs I have. RPM Scales down to 500 I think. Gotta check.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You haven't seen these? Delta EFBs.
> 
> They're good but not on par to a 7-Blade AFB in terms of Noise and Performance. And AFBs will smother GT at same speeds for a little more noise.
> 
> I especially love this one now. Quieter and has a milder tone than the AFBs I have. RPM Scales down to 500 I think. Gotta check.


nope i hadnt seen these.. and a google search for fans with 3 blades netted me only the "explosion proof" chinese fans... which never seen a computer fan explode but... ok.... i did see an image of one of those but it didnt have a link to it...yeah delta has always been known for good airflow but loud.... i mean honestly the bgears fans i have push the air and have the performance they are just pretty loud...but i got them for like 15 bucks on here (maybe less good package deal) so i cant complain too much they do the job...i have a crapbox 360 slim here that is about as loud as my pc... so thats unacceptable







but it has two high speed fans and i have 12 so maybe im just being anal


----------



## Mega Man

explosion proof fans are very specialized motors, and are required in specialized places, and due to the ratings extremely costly

at one of my old jobs we did work at the corporate headquarters of a mining explosive manufacture. at this office they designed the explosives for your site where they stored the materials and other places that the materials were used had to have explosion proof everything, for obvious reasons. working there was interesting, as they used radio wave to detonate stuff you couldnt even bring your phone with you

basically it means the motors electrical components are encased 100% so that no sparks can happen whether at startup or if the motor grounds out or seizes and then grounds out


----------



## mus1mus

@Mega Man

Supposedly for Noctua claims eh? And for our friend Hurr?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> explosion proof fans are very specialized motors, and are required in specialized places, and due to the ratings extremely costly
> 
> at one of my old jobs we did work at the corporate headquarters of a mining explosive manufacture. at this office they designed the explosives for your site where they stored the materials and other places that the materials were used had to have explosion proof everything, for obvious reasons. working there was interesting, as they used radio wave to detonate stuff you couldnt even bring your phone with you
> 
> basically it means the motors electrical components are encased 100% so that no sparks can happen weather at startup or if the motor grounds out or seizes and then grounds out


ok that makes sense.. the only info i really found on them just said explosion proof... but that makes a lot more sense of an application...sparks and explosives mix way too well together :0 I saw explosion proof and my mind went all sorts of places except the logical one....withstand explosion....wont explode.... etc.


----------



## warpuck

I think one of these would be all you need

http://www.alliedelec.com/sunon-fans-a2259-hbl-tc-n-gn/70226062/

Well maybe, might want to add noise canceling headphones


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> I think one of these would be all you need
> 
> http://www.alliedelec.com/sunon-fans-a2259-hbl-tc-n-gn/70226062/
> 
> Well maybe, might want to add noise canceling headphones


nice use one as exhaust...I'm doubting any dust will settle...


----------



## mus1mus

Their blade doesn't look as sexay as the deltas. And for $100, I can pick almost 50 used deltas round here. Coz I'm cheap.


----------



## Trinergy

Subject: Crossfire bridge to stretch from 1st 16x slot to 4th 16x slot

Background: So I just got a second 7950 from GPUSHACK and decided I was going to to XFIRE. I was playing Hitman: Absolution to punish the system. The slot configuration on the Saberkitty is nice in that there is some space between the first and second 16X slots. Since my cards are both non blower cards the top card still gets some heat wash from the card below and gets to 69-70 F. I am going to move the drives to the rear (throwing out the 3.5" drive and replace it with a 2.5" SSHD) to free up all the flow from the two front fans.

Question: Does anyone have a XFIRE configuration using two cards in the two farthest 16x slots? If so where do you get the bridge that spans that far?


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> Subject: Crossfire bridge to stretch from 1st 16x slot to 4th 16x slot
> 
> Background: So I just got a second 7950 from GPUSHACK and decided I was going to to XFIRE. I was playing Hitman: Absolution to punish the system. The slot configuration on the Saberkitty is nice in that there is some space between the first and second 16X slots. Since my cards are both non blower cards the top card still gets some heat wash from the card below and gets to 69-70 F. I am going to move the drives to the rear (throwing out the 3.5" drive and replace it with a 2.5" SSHD) to free up all the flow from the two front fans.
> 
> Question: Does anyone have a XFIRE configuration using two cards in the two farthest 16x slots? If so where do you get the bridge that spans that far?


What's the length you need?
There are various lengths available

http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/crossfire-bridge


----------



## Trinergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> What's the length you need?
> There are various lengths available
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/crossfire-bridge


Hopefully not more than 100mm. Haven't measured it out. Was checking to see if anyone had done it first. Thanks.


----------



## mus1mus

You will need the 2-way bridge. The slots distance is standard.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You will need the 2-way bridge. The slots distance is standard.


hes wanting it in 1 and 4 i think... thats a pretty big distance...


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> hes wanting it in 1 and 4 i think... thats a pretty big distance...


If he does that, his cards will run at X16 and X8.

He would need the light colored slots for proper X16.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> Subject: Crossfire bridge to stretch from 1st 16x slot to 4th 16x slot
> 
> Background: So I just got a second 7950 from GPUSHACK and decided I was going to to XFIRE. I was playing Hitman: Absolution to punish the system. The slot configuration on the Saberkitty is nice in that there is some space between the first and second 16X slots. Since my cards are both non blower cards the top card still gets some heat wash from the card below and gets to 69-70 F. I am going to move the drives to the rear (throwing out the 3.5" drive and replace it with a 2.5" SSHD) to free up all the flow from the two front fans.
> 
> Question: Does anyone have a XFIRE configuration using two cards in the two farthest 16x slots? If so where do you get the bridge that spans that far?


You can buy various lengths online


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> If he does that, his cards will run at X16 and X8.
> 
> He would need the light colored slots for proper X16.


honestly im confused at his post he says 1st and 4th then states the bottom two.. not sure what he needs...


----------



## Archea47

AFAIK there's two x16 slots (the tan ones). To use those I needed a triple GPU water bridge/terminal. When I ran the 280Xs and had a crossfire bridge it was a very tight fit with the standard cable size - the bridge had to be on before the cards could be tightened down and it was always under strain


----------



## Trinergy

After coming home and taking a look while I swapped in my new PSU. the last slot is the only one over from the 2nd Tan slot (3rd PCIe x16 mechanical) so the 4 inch CF bridge might work. However, the GPU would then cover up and pin down the front panel headers and wires. So I am just going to have to live with it. where it is. Thanks for the help.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> hes wanting it in 1 and 4 i think... thats a pretty big distance...
> 
> 
> 
> If he does that, his cards will run at X16 and X8.
> 
> He would need the light colored slots for proper X16.
Click to expand...

Want to know something weird?

I'm running my 295x2 and my 390x atm in Tri-fire so obviously I'd want to use the 2 x16 slots right?

ummm....no, 390x won't work in the second x16 slot, it will work in the first and in the x8 slot but not the second x16 one.

I've tried various configs with my 290x in there as well and my 290x will work in all three slots, same goes for my 295x2 but for some strange reason the 390x will not be picked up in the second x16 slot.

weird huh?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> hes wanting it in 1 and 4 i think... thats a pretty big distance...
> 
> 
> 
> If he does that, his cards will run at X16 and X8.
> 
> He would need the light colored slots for proper X16.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Want to know something weird?
> 
> I'm running my 295x2 and my 390x atm in Tri-fire so obviously I'd want to use the 2 x16 slots right?
> 
> ummm....no, 390x won't work in the second x16 slot, it will work in the first and in the x8 slot but not the second x16 one.
> 
> I've tried various configs with my 290x in there as well and my 290x will work in all three slots, same goes for my 295x2 but for some strange reason the 390x will not be picked up in the second x16 slot.
> 
> weird huh?
Click to expand...

hmm. Are you asking for help







Kidding. I know what you can do.

Really weird though. If a single card won't work on that slot, RMA eligible?

Thing is, I experienced this on a UD3. Where I need to properly initialize the card with the driver before I can work on dual cards.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> hes wanting it in 1 and 4 i think... thats a pretty big distance...
> 
> 
> 
> If he does that, his cards will run at X16 and X8.
> 
> He would need the light colored slots for proper X16.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Want to know something weird?
> 
> I'm running my 295x2 and my 390x atm in Tri-fire so obviously I'd want to use the 2 x16 slots right?
> 
> ummm....no, 390x won't work in the second x16 slot, it will work in the first and in the x8 slot but not the second x16 one.
> 
> I've tried various configs with my 290x in there as well and my 290x will work in all three slots, same goes for my 295x2 but for some strange reason the 390x will not be picked up in the second x16 slot.
> 
> weird huh?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> hmm. Are you asking for help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kidding. I know what you can do.
> 
> Really weird though. If a single card won't work on that slot, RMA eligible?
> 
> Thing is, I experienced this on a UD3. Where I need to properly initialize the card with the driver before I can work on dual cards.
Click to expand...

Nah, it's not enough of a pain for an RMA tbh and no i wasn't asking for help with it









It was just something weird that i wanted to share


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> hes wanting it in 1 and 4 i think... thats a pretty big distance...
> 
> 
> 
> If he does that, his cards will run at X16 and X8.
> 
> He would need the light colored slots for proper X16.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Want to know something weird?
> 
> I'm running my 295x2 and my 390x atm in Tri-fire so obviously I'd want to use the 2 x16 slots right?
> 
> ummm....no, 390x won't work in the second x16 slot, it will work in the first and in the x8 slot but not the second x16 one.
> 
> I've tried various configs with my 290x in there as well and my 290x will work in all three slots, same goes for my 295x2 but for some strange reason the 390x will not be picked up in the second x16 slot.
> 
> weird huh?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> hmm. Are you asking for help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kidding. I know what you can do.
> 
> Really weird though. If a single card won't work on that slot, RMA eligible?
> 
> Thing is, I experienced this on a UD3. Where I need to properly initialize the card with the driver before I can work on dual cards.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Nah, it's not enough of a pain for an RMA tbh and no i wasn't asking for help with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was just something weird that i wanted to share
Click to expand...

I hear ya on that. Could just be a dead slot or something. And to RMA it means waiting for days. I couldn't bear waiting myself.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I hear ya on that. Could just be a dead slot or something. And to RMA it means waiting for days. I couldn't bear waiting myself.


Well the slot isn't dead, it works with my 295x2 and my 290x....just not the 390x









That is the weird part


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I hear ya on that. Could just be a dead slot or something. And to RMA it means waiting for days. I couldn't bear waiting myself.
> 
> 
> 
> Well the slot isn't dead, it works with my 295x2 and my 290x....just not the 390x
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is the weird part
Click to expand...

My bad for not thinking about what I am reading.









No post or anything?


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I hear ya on that. Could just be a dead slot or something. And to RMA it means waiting for days. I couldn't bear waiting myself.
> 
> 
> 
> Well the slot isn't dead, it works with my 295x2 and my 290x....just not the 390x
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is the weird part
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> My bad for not thinking about what I am reading.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No post or anything?
Click to expand...

Well I'm yet to try it out with only the 390x plugged in there but when i have the 295x2 in the first slot the 290x works in the second but not the 390x, it will only work in the last x8 slot (found all this out while i was trying out quadfire again







)

It's not causing me any issues and Tri-Fire is still working just fine but i found it weird and thought I'd share


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I hear ya on that. Could just be a dead slot or something. And to RMA it means waiting for days. I couldn't bear waiting myself.
> 
> 
> 
> Well the slot isn't dead, it works with my 295x2 and my 290x....just not the 390x
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is the weird part
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> My bad for not thinking about what I am reading.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No post or anything?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well I'm yet to try it out with only the 390x plugged in there but when i have the 295x2 in the first slot the 290x works in the second but not the 390x, it will only work in the last x8 slot (found all this out while i was trying out quadfire again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> It's not causing me any issues and Tri-Fire is still working just fine but i found it weird and thought I'd share
Click to expand...

Could just be initialization. Like I described above. I think BIOS skipped it or something.

Might need to initialize it on that slot alone.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I hear ya on that. Could just be a dead slot or something. And to RMA it means waiting for days. I couldn't bear waiting myself.
> 
> 
> 
> Well the slot isn't dead, it works with my 295x2 and my 290x....just not the 390x
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is the weird part
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> My bad for not thinking about what I am reading.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No post or anything?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well I'm yet to try it out with only the 390x plugged in there but when i have the 295x2 in the first slot the 290x works in the second but not the 390x, it will only work in the last x8 slot (found all this out while i was trying out quadfire again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> It's not causing me any issues and Tri-Fire is still working just fine but i found it weird and thought I'd share
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Could just be initialization. Like I described above. I think BIOS skipped it or something.
> 
> Might need to initialize it on that slot alone.
Click to expand...

Maybe yeah, I might give it a go when I get some time.....actually happy just gaming atm and with a shiny new 4k monitor on the way benching is taking a back seat for me


----------



## mus1mus

did you say 4K? You lucky brat.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> did you say 4K? You lucky brat.


Hehe....yeah, it's taking me some time to save up enough for it but hopefully I'll be buying it next week....if not then before the month it out for sure


----------



## mus1mus

Noice man. It's a good work's reward for sho!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I think 4k will be a next gen upgrade for me...I planned it for this one but it seems like every game I really want to play has had crossfire issues for six months after release...the one exception being phantom pain...I would be posed if I bought a 4k monitor and got 15 fps because I could only user one card for a game so I've held off...another positive for waiting is prices should be lower by then


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I think 4k will be a next gen upgrade for me...I planned it for this one but it seems like every game I really want to play has had crossfire issues for six months after release...the one exception being phantom pain...I would be posed if I bought a 4k monitor and got 15 fps because I could only user one card for a game so I've held off...another positive for waiting is prices should be lower by then


You'd be surprised how well one GPU can do at 4k actually once you turn off AA









most of what i play has Crossfire or Tri-Fire support and if it doesn't then one GPU will suffice for it until i get it....or just play at 1440p till it does


----------



## warpuck

Someone should put it in a case and market it as the wind tunnel

http://www.alliedelec.com/sunon-fans-a2259-hbl-tc-n-gn/70226062/


----------



## Trinergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Well I'm yet to try it out with only the 390x plugged in there but when i have the 295x2 in the first slot the 290x works in the second but not the 390x, it will only work in the last x8 slot (found all this out while i was trying out quadfire again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> It's not causing me any issues and Tri-Fire is still working just fine but i found it weird and thought I'd share


Does the 390x have a UEFI bios (and enabled) and the other's don't?


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Well I'm yet to try it out with only the 390x plugged in there but when i have the 295x2 in the first slot the 290x works in the second but not the 390x, it will only work in the last x8 slot (found all this out while i was trying out quadfire again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> It's not causing me any issues and Tri-Fire is still working just fine but i found it weird and thought I'd share
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does the 390x have a UEFI bios (and enabled) and the other's don't?
Click to expand...

If that was the case then it wouldn't work in any configuration with the 290x or 295x2 but it does, just not in the second x16 slot


----------



## Trinergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> If that was the case then it wouldn't work in any configuration with the 290x or 295x2 but it does, just not in the second x16 slot


My thought was that the other cards don't use an UEFI BIOS and the 390 does. Worth trying hitting the button.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> If that was the case then it wouldn't work in any configuration with the 290x or 295x2 but it does, just not in the second x16 slot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My thought was that the other cards don't use an UEFI BIOS and the 390 does. Worth trying hitting the button.
Click to expand...

It doesn't have a button for a UEFI Bios, it has a switch and yes I've tried it both ways so far, if i get some time tomorrow I'll mess around with it some more


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> If that was the case then it wouldn't work in any configuration with the 290x or 295x2 but it does, just not in the second x16 slot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My thought was that the other cards don't use an UEFI BIOS and the 390 does. Worth trying hitting the button.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It doesn't have a button for a UEFI Bios, it has a switch and yes I've tried it both ways so far, if i get some time tomorrow I'll mess around with it some more
Click to expand...

Not saying to do this.. but I wonder...

Would flashing a 290x Bios to the 390 allow for it to hit the second slot, if it does then its an issue with the newer BIOS for what ever reason.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> If that was the case then it wouldn't work in any configuration with the 290x or 295x2 but it does, just not in the second x16 slot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My thought was that the other cards don't use an UEFI BIOS and the 390 does. Worth trying hitting the button.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It doesn't have a button for a UEFI Bios, it has a switch and yes I've tried it both ways so far, if i get some time tomorrow I'll mess around with it some more
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not saying to do this.. but I wonder...
> 
> Would flashing a 290x Bios to the 390 allow for it to hit the second slot, if it does then its an issue with the newer BIOS for what ever reason.
Click to expand...

That could be problematic seeing as there is a 390x bios that does work on 290x cards but the other way around......i dunno.

As i said before it really isn't an issue, PCIe 2.0 x8 is enough for it


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> If that was the case then it wouldn't work in any configuration with the 290x or 295x2 but it does, just not in the second x16 slot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My thought was that the other cards don't use an UEFI BIOS and the 390 does. Worth trying hitting the button.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It doesn't have a button for a UEFI Bios, it has a switch and yes I've tried it both ways so far, if i get some time tomorrow I'll mess around with it some more
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not saying to do this.. but I wonder...
> 
> Would flashing a 290x Bios to the 390 allow for it to hit the second slot, if it does then its an issue with the newer BIOS for what ever reason.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That could be problematic seeing as there is a 390x bios that does work on 290x cards but the other way around......i dunno.
> 
> As i said before it really isn't an issue, PCIe 2.0 x8 is enough for it
Click to expand...

yeah true, Its the same GPU so I couldn't imagine it being much different TBH.. just a thought though.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> If that was the case then it wouldn't work in any configuration with the 290x or 295x2 but it does, just not in the second x16 slot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My thought was that the other cards don't use an UEFI BIOS and the 390 does. Worth trying hitting the button.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It doesn't have a button for a UEFI Bios, it has a switch and yes I've tried it both ways so far, if i get some time tomorrow I'll mess around with it some more
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not saying to do this.. but I wonder...
> 
> Would flashing a 290x Bios to the 390 allow for it to hit the second slot, if it does then its an issue with the newer BIOS for what ever reason.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That could be problematic seeing as there is a 390x bios that does work on 290x cards but the other way around......i dunno.
> 
> As i said before it really isn't an issue, PCIe 2.0 x8 is enough for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> yeah true, Its the same GPU so I couldn't imagine it being much different TBH.. just a thought though.
Click to expand...

The GPU core is the same but that's about it, XFX changed alot of things on this.

The memory timings for one are tighter than the 290x even though there is double the amount of Vram, the vrm, caps and chokes are all different again and while i could try it out and see it's not bothering me enough to bother with potential bricking


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> If that was the case then it wouldn't work in any configuration with the 290x or 295x2 but it does, just not in the second x16 slot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My thought was that the other cards don't use an UEFI BIOS and the 390 does. Worth trying hitting the button.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It doesn't have a button for a UEFI Bios, it has a switch and yes I've tried it both ways so far, if i get some time tomorrow I'll mess around with it some more
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not saying to do this.. but I wonder...
> 
> Would flashing a 290x Bios to the 390 allow for it to hit the second slot, if it does then its an issue with the newer BIOS for what ever reason.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That could be problematic seeing as there is a 390x bios that does work on 290x cards but the other way around......i dunno.
> 
> As i said before it really isn't an issue, PCIe 2.0 x8 is enough for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> yeah true, Its the same GPU so I couldn't imagine it being much different TBH.. just a thought though.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The GPU core is the same but that's about it, XFX changed alot of things on this.
> 
> The memory timings for one are tighter than the 290x even though there is double the amount of Vram, the vrm, caps and chokes are all different again and while i could try it out and see it's not bothering me enough to bother with potential bricking
Click to expand...

Brick it? then reflash it.. lol I know what you mean though.. its nice they have back plates on them.. I love the cooler on them, my 280x's are like that.. however it dumps a lot of heat into the case


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Brick it? then reflash it.. lol I know what you mean though.. its nice they have back plates on them.. I love the cooler on them, my 280x's are like that.. however it dumps a lot of heat into the case


Oh you know what i mean.....It's just a pain unbricking a card









It's interesting though....the 290x's seem to be better overclockers but the 390x's are better gaming cards


----------



## Sgt Bilko

So i got a little bored today:

http://valid.x86.fr/1aiar7


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> So i got a little bored today:
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/1aiar7


stable?


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> So i got a little bored today:
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/1aiar7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stable?
Click to expand...

Ummm.....No, not even close.

It was stable enough to run GPUPI 1B but that's all, I can run some medium load stuff on 5.4 but i don't have the cooling to get it stable, I'm only on 2 x EX240's (35mm thick)


----------



## mus1mus

So what is this about?









I am yet to try booting 5.5 at that Voltage.

So, jelly mus!


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> So what is this about?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am yet to try booting 5.5 at that Voltage.
> 
> So, jelly mus!


Well i can't set it any higher than 1.6v in Bios otherwise it all shuts down so I'm assuming that's PSU OCP (iirc the sabertooth can go much higher than that right?)

So i think my PSU might be on the way out maybe because it should be able to handle more than that....

What's the highest you've gotten to so far Mus?


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Well i can't set it any higher than 1.6v in Bios otherwise it all shuts down so I'm assuming that's PSU OCP (iirc the sabertooth can go much higher than that right?)
> 
> So i think my PSU might be on the way out maybe because it should be able to handle more than that....
> 
> What's the highest you've gotten to so far Mus?


on my 8350 i only could go to 1.68vcore on the saberkitty any higher than that it would shutdown


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> So what is this about?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am yet to try booting 5.5 at that Voltage.
> 
> So, jelly mus!
> 
> 
> 
> Well i can't set it any higher than 1.6v in Bios otherwise it all shuts down so I'm assuming that's PSU OCP (iirc the sabertooth can go much higher than that right?)
> 
> So i think my PSU might be on the way out maybe because it should be able to handle more than that....
> 
> What's the highest you've gotten to so far Mus?
Click to expand...

IIRC, a hair below 1.7 on both the kitty and the CHVFZ, neither my 8320, 8370E and the late 8320E, and none of the PSUs, 850W Silent Pro, V1000, or a pair of Seasonic X-1250s raised that limit higher.

So I'm guessing, something's limitting the Vcore somewhere. Prolly to keep us away from burning the earth.

Maybe not gonna do higher unless you can go near freezing temps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> on my 8350 i only could go to 1.68vcore on the saberkitty any higher than that it would shutdown


Yep, same thing.

Where have you been?


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> IIRC, a hair below 1.7 on both the kitty and the CHVFZ, neither my 8320, 8370E and the late 8320E, and none of the PSUs, 850W Silent Pro, V1000, or a pair of Seasonic X-1250s raised that limit higher.
> 
> So I'm guessing, something's limitting the Vcore somewhere. Prolly to keep us away from burning the earth.
> 
> Maybe not gonna do higher unless you can go near freezing temps.
> Yep, same thing.
> 
> *Where have you been*?


im not well but getting better each day thanks


----------



## Mega Man

Sorry to hear man we are here for you if you need

Glad to hear you are getting better
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> So what is this about?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am yet to try booting 5.5 at that Voltage.
> 
> So, jelly mus!
> 
> 
> 
> Well i can't set it any higher than 1.6v in Bios otherwise it all shuts down so I'm assuming that's PSU OCP (iirc the sabertooth can go much higher than that right?)
> 
> So i think my PSU might be on the way out maybe because it should be able to handle more than that....
> 
> What's the highest you've gotten to so far Mus?
Click to expand...

1.6 you need to disable cpu volts monitoring


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> im not well but getting better each day thanks


Ohh. Sorry to hear that mate. And do get better. You're missing the fun.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> So what is this about?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am yet to try booting 5.5 at that Voltage.
> 
> So, jelly mus!
> 
> 
> 
> Well i can't set it any higher than 1.6v in Bios otherwise it all shuts down so I'm assuming that's PSU OCP (iirc the sabertooth can go much higher than that right?)
> 
> So i think my PSU might be on the way out maybe because it should be able to handle more than that....
> 
> What's the highest you've gotten to so far Mus?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> IIRC, a hair below 1.7 on both the kitty and the CHVFZ, neither my 8320, 8370E and the late 8320E, and none of the PSUs, 850W Silent Pro, V1000, or a pair of Seasonic X-1250s raised that limit higher.
> 
> So I'm guessing, something's limitting the Vcore somewhere. Prolly to keep us away from burning the earth.
> 
> Maybe not gonna do higher unless you can go near freezing temps.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> on my 8350 i only could go to 1.68vcore on the saberkitty any higher than that it would shutdown
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yep, same thing.
> 
> Where have you been?
Click to expand...

I've done 1.71v on my 8350 with the CVF, never pushed it that hard on the Z.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> IIRC, a hair below 1.7 on both the kitty and the CHVFZ, neither my 8320, 8370E and the late 8320E, and none of the PSUs, 850W Silent Pro, V1000, or a pair of Seasonic X-1250s raised that limit higher.
> 
> So I'm guessing, something's limitting the Vcore somewhere. Prolly to keep us away from burning the earth.
> 
> Maybe not gonna do higher unless you can go near freezing temps.
> Yep, same thing.
> 
> *Where have you been*?
> 
> 
> 
> im not well but getting better each day thanks
Click to expand...

Good to hear mate, almost been missing that Pommy humour of yours








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Sorry to hear man we are here for you if you need
> 
> Glad to hear you are getting better
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> So what is this about?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am yet to try booting 5.5 at that Voltage.
> 
> So, jelly mus!
> 
> 
> 
> Well i can't set it any higher than 1.6v in Bios otherwise it all shuts down so I'm assuming that's PSU OCP (iirc the sabertooth can go much higher than that right?)
> 
> So i think my PSU might be on the way out maybe because it should be able to handle more than that....
> 
> What's the highest you've gotten to so far Mus?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 1.6 you need to disable cpu volts monitoring
Click to expand...

Oh?

I didn't know about that one....pretty obvious option in the Bios is it or somewhat hidden away?

Thanks for that bud, learn something new everyday


----------



## mus1mus

Monitoring tab > Vcore > disable monitoring.

If you haven't found it yet.









Maybe AMD's FIVR detecting not soo healthy temps.


----------



## gertruude

thanks for support guys it means alot, though ill truly never be better i think managable is a better word for it









im missing my watercooling but the missus wont let me buy anymore after it leaked all over my system









im hoping to talk her round after xmas haha


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Monitoring tab > Vcore > disable monitoring.
> 
> If you haven't found it yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe AMD's FIVR detecting not soo healthy temps.


It's coming on 1am and i start work in 6 hours.....I'm not benching tonight









I might give it all another run before the weather gets too warm here though......just to see if i can push anymore out of it









As for temps......I honestly have no idea, I don't monitor temps when I'm benching


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> It's coming on 1am and i start work in 6 hours.....I'm not benching tonight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might give it all another run before the weather gets too warm here though......just to see if i can push anymore out of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for temps......I honestly have no idea, I don't monitor temps when I'm benching


Happens within the BIOS. And some intense benches. But after 1.7 and it will just do Pre-post resets.

How's the first day of DST shifts mate?

@gertrude things can always get better, buddy. Cheer up.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> thanks for support guys it means alot, though ill truly never be better i think managable is a better word for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im missing my watercooling but the missus wont let me buy anymore after it leaked all over my system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im hoping to talk her round after xmas haha


what is the diagnosis if you dont mind me asking...my fiancee has systemic lupus it is very rough... some days she doesnt leave the bed....which before lupus i wouldnt have minded but yeah.. hope all goes well for you...

This is why i check everything a couple times a month... for any signs of weepage and strength of tubes and seals... its not foolproof but it makes me feel better and so far i havent had a leak other than when i dropped my bleed screw and forgot to put it back in and turned the pc off... LOL the bleed hole became a water gun but thankfully it faces the back of the case and hte panel was off so no harm no foul there...


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> It's coming on 1am and i start work in 6 hours.....I'm not benching tonight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might give it all another run before the weather gets too warm here though......just to see if i can push anymore out of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for temps......I honestly have no idea, I don't monitor temps when I'm benching
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happens within the BIOS. And some intense benches. But after 1.7 and it will just do Pre-post resets.
> 
> How's the first day of DST shifts mate?
> 
> @gertrude things can always get better, buddy. Cheer up.
Click to expand...

Any change with time takes a few days to get used to.....

Im actually hoping it wont be so damn hot this summer, last summer i actually had to take off my overclock and go back to 4.8 (unless i had my fans at 2500+rpm all the time







)


----------



## OzPapaSmurf

Hi there all, I have a 990FX R2.0 and just got it back from being "repaired"? This is the second time it has been away to be fixed, they don't seem to do too good a job of fixing issues. This time though, the system WON'T boot. I have changed the Memory, the GPU and the PSU but, still nothing.
When I try to start it, I have only the CPU in, 1 stick of memory, the CPU cooler and the Video card, EVERYTHING else is disconnected. The memory is the same lot that was in the machine before it died and the CPU is the same but, nothing.

The memory button led is lit as is the CPU led but I am at a loss to fix this. The CPU is an FX8120 and I really don't have the money to buy a NEW one on spec, they are almost $300.00 here in OZ.
I was going to post this at the ROG forum but, I had experience with that before, in 2014, never got an answer so, I would appreciate any insights you people may have.









Thanks.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzPapaSmurf*
> 
> Hi there all, I have a 990FX R2.0 and just got it back from being "repaired"? This is the second time it has been away to be fixed, they don't seem to do too good a job of fixing issues. This time though, the system WON'T boot. I have changed the Memory, the GPU and the PSU but, still nothing.
> When I try to start it, I have only the CPU in, 1 stick of memory, the CPU cooler and the Video card, EVERYTHING else is disconnected. The memory is the same lot that was in the machine before it died and the CPU is the same but, nothing.
> 
> The memory button led is lit as is the CPU led but I am at a loss to fix this. The CPU is an FX8120 and I really don't have the money to buy a NEW one on spec, they are almost $300.00 here in OZ.
> I was going to post this at the ROG forum but, I had experience with that before, in 2014, never got an answer so, I would appreciate any insights you people may have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.


Have you tried using the bios flashback to reinstall the bios? Can you get into bios at all? Have you reset bios via jumper or by removing cmos battery?


----------



## OzPapaSmurf

Thanks for answering. I have reset the board, have taken out the battery for about 15 mins and STILL nothing. I cannot get into BIOS and my monitor is telling me that there is NO signal, even though I have so far tried 3 WORKING video cards. It is sad really, this board is supposed to be so great and yet, I cannot see it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzPapaSmurf*
> 
> Thanks for answering. I have reset the board, have taken out the battery for about 15 mins and STILL nothing. I cannot get into BIOS and my monitor is telling me that there is NO signal, even though I have so far tried 3 WORKING video cards. It is sad really, this board is supposed to be so great and yet, I cannot see it.


I would try the bios flashback with the latest bios loaded on the usb...if that fails I would say their "repair" wasn't successful or the board dying last time killed stuff with it


----------



## mus1mus

You will need to diagnose it the good old way.

If you have a debug speaker for computers, attach one and boot up for some beeps.


----------



## Mega Man

I would start with the mem ok button. Then flash to newest bios if the mem ok button does not work.

If that does not work Reseat everything. Check for dust in everything you remove


----------



## OzPapaSmurf

Thanks for everyone's suggestions but, it appears that the CPU may indeed be dead.








I have submitted a warranty request to AMD but I won't hold my breath expecting a positive response. The red LED keeps lit for the CPU all the time and there is no activity with USB or drives or just about anything.
Like I said, thanks guys for the help. I will let you know how I get on.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzPapaSmurf*
> 
> Thanks for everyone's suggestions but, it appears that the CPU may indeed be dead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have submitted a warranty request to AMD but I won't hold my breath expecting a positive response. The red LED keeps lit for the CPU all the time and there is no activity with USB or drives or just about anything.
> Like I said, thanks guys for the help. I will let you know how I get on.


You might be surprised given the surplus amount of CPUs they have with everyone buying intels lol.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzPapaSmurf*
> 
> Thanks for everyone's suggestions but, it appears that the CPU may indeed be dead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have submitted a warranty request to AMD but I won't hold my breath expecting a positive response. The red LED keeps lit for the CPU all the time and there is no activity with USB or drives or just about anything.
> Like I said, thanks guys for the help. I will let you know how I get on.


Sometimes the board itself will post the red LED light even if the CPU is still good.. I had a board come DOA with that exact issue. I suggest if you can find another chip to borrow to test it that way...


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Sometimes the board itself will post the red LED light even if the CPU is still good.. I had a board come DOA with that exact issue. I suggest if you can find another chip to borrow to test it that way...


Agreed. I had that situation with the red light and no activity when I killed my board. I am still using that same cpu.


----------



## OzPapaSmurf

Well, I contacted AMD and they stood behind the "rules" and said that the date of manufacture was older than the 3 years allowed. Unfortunately, I cannot find the receipt for the CPU and, the company I bought it from have gone out of business???? Tough I guess?
Thanks guys for all you posts. I bought an old AM3 CPU an it is working for the time being until I can afford another 8 core.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzPapaSmurf*
> 
> Well, I contacted AMD and they stood behind the "rules" and said that the date of manufacture was older than the 3 years allowed. Unfortunately, I cannot find the receipt for the CPU and, the company I bought it from have gone out of business???? Tough I guess?
> Thanks guys for all you posts. I bought an old AM3 CPU an it is working for the time being until I can afford another 8 core.


That's unfortunate...at least you tried...rip poor chip


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzPapaSmurf*
> 
> Well, I contacted AMD and they stood behind the "rules" and said that the date of manufacture was older than the 3 years allowed. Unfortunately, I cannot find the receipt for the CPU and, the company I bought it from have gone out of business???? Tough I guess?
> Thanks guys for all you posts. I bought an old AM3 CPU an it is working for the time being until I can afford another 8 core.


You could always keep trying to find the receipt and while trying to get another one from them and keep on trying, sometimes companies will bend the rules for us consumers.


----------



## MechanimaL

ok i just got this board. first off it really rocks that i can see within the first steps of bios setup, tuning, temps, stability etc..









win10x64home
8350
990 fx sabertooth r20
1866 hyper x savage @ 2133 cl9

now some questions:

I'm now trying to find the best LLC setup, which means for me LLC not lower and not much higher vcore under load<-> no load

it seems "high" or "ultra high" seem to be the closest to what i want, whats your experience?

i noticed v-drop with apm enabled. is there a way in the more detailed (digi power area) section of the board to have apm enabled and not have those drops? i d like to have the least watt usage as possible with the daily usage. i'm not sure about disabling apm, i know it s meant to keep the cpu wattage within the specs, not possible with 4.6 ghz or higher @1.4xV?!

for my everyday use I have cnq enabled (c6 disabled). what is the apm = auto setting for?

vdda is auto and gives 2.52 ? shouldnt it be 2.55?

is there a must-have setting amongst the special controls, i mean those settings you won't find on cheaper/non asus boards? i did not touch those so far as i would have to do some research first.

thanks for the input


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MechanimaL*
> 
> ok i just got this board. first off it really rocks that i can see within the first steps of bios setup, tuning, temps, stability etc..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> win10x64home
> 8350
> 990 fx sabertooth r20
> 1866 hyper x savage @ 2133 cl9
> 
> now some questions:
> 
> I'm now trying to find the best LLC setup, which means for me LLC not lower and not much higher vcore under load<-> no load
> 
> it seems "high" or "ultra high" seem to be the closest to what i want, whats your experience?
> 
> i noticed v-drop with apm enabled. is there a way in the more detailed (digi power area) section of the board to have apm enabled and not have those drops? i d like to have the least watt usage as possible with the daily usage. i'm not sure about disabling apm, i know it s meant to keep the cpu wattage within the specs, not possible with 4.6 ghz or higher @1.4xV?!
> 
> for my everyday use I have cnq enabled (c6 disabled). what is the apm = auto setting for?
> 
> vdda is auto and gives 2.52 ? shouldnt it be 2.55?
> 
> is there a must-have setting amongst the special controls, i mean those settings you won't find on cheaper/non asus boards? i did not touch those so far as i would have to do some research first.
> 
> thanks for the input


I used high personally and account for the VDroop I have every power saving thing turned on as it bugs my gf how hot it gets in out bedroom, if you use very high with certain things enabled your system will lock up when switching P states, at least this is my finding.

As for the best settings? not sure, I need to fine tune my OC more tbh I haven't really set up the Digi+ power settings in bios fully. I set VDDA to 2.6v, Make sure you enable HPC mode it gets rid of the thermal throttle at 72c socket temp.


----------



## MechanimaL

I wont get near 72degrees and for hpc i seem to remember that it does disable some features of power saving which i would not want.

with apm disabled i have constant vcore/cpu clock. but as said i'm not sure about the side effects of apm off ^^


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MechanimaL*
> 
> I'm wont get near 72degrees and for hpc i seem to remember that it does disable some features of power saving which i would not want.
> 
> with apm disabled i have constant vcore/cpu clock. but as said i'm not sure about the side effects of apm off ^^


You would want HPC off and APM enabled. Someone said they go hand in hand and one is the reverse of the other.

For LLC, I use Ultra. But my settings are not for power savings. It pushing my boundaries. Though it helps lower my temps a bit.

Where are you on the OC by the way?

For optimum power savings, don't OC the FSB or BCLK. Use the default power saving schemes sans Turbo disabled and Cool and Quiet enabled. Enable thise that are disabled by default except HPC.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You would want HPC off and APM enabled. Someone said they go hand in hand and one is the reverse of the other.
> 
> For LLC, I use Ultra. But my settings are not for power savings. It pushing my boundaries. Though it helps lower my temps a bit.
> 
> Where are you on the OC by the way?
> 
> For optimum power savings, don't OC the FSB or BCLK. Use the default power saving schemes sans Turbo disabled and Cool and Quiet enabled. Enable thise that are disabled by default except HPC.


Ah crap I have everything enabled lmao, everything is stable and I can stress test with all the power saving stuff on, my clock drops to 1.4ghz and volts to 1.2v and I've done FSB and multi for my clocks. Urm, did I do the bad thing?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MechanimaL*
> 
> I wont get near 72degrees and for hpc i seem to remember that it does disable some features of power saving which i would not want.
> 
> with apm disabled i have constant vcore/cpu clock. but as said i'm not sure about the side effects of apm off ^^


Hotter socket, higher temps, same as always really, and I've had my socket hit 82c and its running fine, that's only when stress testing however most of the time it just sat at 42c.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You would want HPC off and APM enabled. Someone said they go hand in hand and one is the reverse of the other.
> 
> For LLC, I use Ultra. But my settings are not for power savings. It pushing my boundaries. Though it helps lower my temps a bit.
> 
> Where are you on the OC by the way?
> 
> For optimum power savings, don't OC the FSB or BCLK. Use the default power saving schemes sans Turbo disabled and Cool and Quiet enabled. Enable thise that are disabled by default except HPC.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah crap I have everything enabled lmao, everything is stable and I can stress test with all the power saving stuff on, my clock drops to 1.4ghz and volts to 1.2v and I've done FSB and multi for my clocks. Urm, did I do the bad thing?
Click to expand...

You do realize you are not the targeted user on that post right?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You do realize you are not the targeted user on that post right?


I know this but i'm doing all the things you said not to do, should I turn off HPC mode while using APM or no?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I know this but i'm doing all the things you said not to do, should I turn off HPC mode while using APM or no?


Then you know that you are no longer a target of easy to do instructions and less complicated settings to tweak.









HPC prevents throttling at a certain temp. APM does that. So they said, turn off one of them if the other is enabled. Or simply just disable APM if you want HPC.









By the way, mine works with power savings ON with Offset Voltages. Manual Voltages doesn't go to low power.

You might also need to tweak CPU power management in Windows if issues occur due to very low idle clocks and clock states switching.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Then you know that you are no longer a target of easy to do instructions and less complicated settings to tweak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HPC prevents throttling at a certain temp. APM does that. So they said, turn off one of them if the other is enabled. Or simply just disable APM if you want HPC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, mine works with power savings ON with Offset Voltages. Manual Voltages doesn't go to low power.
> 
> You might also need to tweak CPU power management in Windows if issues occur due to very low idle clocks and clock states switching.


Yeah, I'll look into it a bit more then, as for the power management in windows etc, I'm already ahead of you there, 30% min - 100% max, the issue I was having was with P states and LLC, swapped from Very High to High and everything is fine now.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Yeah, I'll look into it a bit more then, as for the power management in windows etc, I'm already ahead of you there, 30% min - 100% max, the issue I was having was with P states and LLC, swapped from Very High to High and everything is fine now.


It could simply be Voltage. Or not enough of it.

Ultra seems to add 0.025 Volts at load from the Vcore value at idle.

High seems flat out. At load and idle. Wasn't able to use it for a while now.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MechanimaL*
> 
> ok i just got this board. first off it really rocks that i can see within the first steps of bios setup, tuning, temps, stability etc..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> win10x64home
> 8350
> 990 fx sabertooth r20
> 1866 hyper x savage @ 2133 cl9
> 
> now some questions:
> 
> I'm now trying to find the best LLC setup, which means for me LLC not lower and not much higher vcore under load<-> no load
> 
> it seems "high" or "ultra high" seem to be the closest to what i want, whats your experience?
> 
> i noticed v-drop with apm enabled. is there a way in the more detailed (digi power area) section of the board to have apm enabled and not have those drops? i d like to have the least watt usage as possible with the daily usage. i'm not sure about disabling apm, i know it s meant to keep the cpu wattage within the specs, not possible with 4.6 ghz or higher @1.4xV?!
> 
> for my everyday use I have cnq enabled (c6 disabled). what is the apm = auto setting for?
> 
> vdda is auto and gives 2.52 ? shouldnt it be 2.55?
> 
> is there a must-have setting amongst the special controls, i mean those settings you won't find on cheaper/non asus boards? i did not touch those so far as i would have to do some research first.
> 
> thanks for the input


on mobile atm. Fill out rig builder ( see my signature ) and tell me what kind of coiling. I can go over power saving setting at a later time


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> It could simply be Voltage. Or not enough of it.
> 
> Ultra seems to add 0.025 Volts at load from the Vcore value at idle.
> 
> High seems flat out. At load and idle. Wasn't able to use it for a while now.


Not sure, I gave it more volts and everything, nothing fixed the issue. Simply swapping to High then giving more volts to account for VDroop under load fixed my problem.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Not sure, I gave it more volts and everything, nothing fixed the issue. Simply swapping to High then giving more volts to account for VDroop under load fixed my problem.


You might need to return to it and check the Voltage levels the chip goes into at load and idle.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You might need to return to it and check the Voltage levels the chip goes into at load and idle.


Did before to confirm and at the same volts underload it freezes on very high but not high. Not sure what I'm doing wrong?


----------



## mus1mus

Just do what's working. lol


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Just do what's working. lol


GAWD, FINE!!!! Why u gotta be so darude.mp3


----------



## mus1mus

Coz you are as fun as a conversation as a wall.


----------



## Benjiw

GAWD, FINE!!!! Why u gotta be so darude.mp3[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Coz you are as fun as a conversation as a wall.


----------



## mus1mus

You've spent a day thinking about it dontcha?


----------



## MechanimaL

ok I've got some questions about adjustments in the digi power area and other possible optimisations.

what i am at is currently

4.6 @1.43V @ llc=high @ 57/67 degrees celsius (core+socket)

without apm and without c6 i get a constant and straight clock + voltage all the time im stressing the cpu (with occt). the rest of energy saving options are enabled. (i would like to enable as much as possible, any suggestions how to use apm and get stable voltage/core clock or doesnt it matter that it jumps around with apm on?)

first off i dont know if my cooler is set up perfectly it's a pain in the ass with 2 very short screws and a loose plate above the cooling unit that presses it down. installing it results in being hardly able to place it correctly before fastening the screws and so it gets pushed and pulled above the cpu/thermal paste... maybe im installing it again with some tricks to place it directly 100% on top, but perhaps it's already not really bad, you can tell me your opinion.

i basically want that 4.6 stable with less vcore. dealing with nb+ht later. i know that might rise temps some more.

how to achieve that? i thought about other tweaks within those bios settings. so far i have not touched much.

what are those settings for:

cpu current capability

cpu power power response control

cpu thermal control

cpu power phase control

and might it be useful to raise cpu vdda (currently 2.52V).

thank you so much for any input


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You've spent a day thinking about it dontcha?


No been busy at university and only just seen this lmao.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MechanimaL*
> 
> ok I've got some questions about adjustments in the digi power area and other possible optimisations.
> 
> what i am at is currently
> 
> 4.6 @1.43V @ llc=high @ 57/67 degrees celsius (core+socket)
> 
> without apm and without c6 i get a constant and straight clock + voltage all the time im stressing the cpu (with occt). the rest of energy saving options are enabled. (i would like to enable as much as possible, any suggestions how to use apm and get stable voltage/core clock or doesnt it matter that it jumps around with apm on?)


see below i will entail what apm does as with most other relevant power savings, in an easy to understand way
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MechanimaL*
> 
> first off i dont know if my cooler is set up perfectly it's a pain in the ass with 2 very short screws and a loose plate above the cooling unit that presses it down. installing it results in being hardly able to place it correctly before fastening the screws and so it gets pushed and pulled above the cpu/thermal paste... maybe im installing it again with some tricks to place it directly 100% on top, but perhaps it's already not really bad, you can tell me your opinion.


i dunno , i dunno what your cooler is - see my sig and how to set up rigbuilder / pu t it in your sig ( i see you have a rig but i will forget it shortly if you put it in your sig it will help everyone help you )
imo that seems high temp for that cooler but i am not a huge air guy so i may be wrong looks like it should be in the ballpark of a d14? what thermal paste are you using and what method are you applying ?? the cooler should be fine sliding around, however you dont want the cooler lifting at all ! when my block slides around it does not make my mount bad
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MechanimaL*
> 
> i basically want that 4.6 stable with less vcore. dealing with nb+ht later. i know that might rise temps some more.
> 
> how to achieve that? i thought about other tweaks within those bios settings. so far i have not touched much.


you cant, it takes "x" vcore for "y" speed

there is a rumor that goes around that fsb =less voltage needed and less heat . it is FALSE
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MechanimaL*
> 
> what are those settings for:
> 
> cpu current capability


how much current in relation to amds spec the board allows to vcore - i recommend with proper VRM cooling ( for ALL advanced adj below as well [email protected] !~ which you seem to have with air cooler, i would be more worried with a water cooler about cooling vrms ! )

set to 130-140, reason amps are pulled not pushed.

this setting allows the chip to pull more amps as needed, with as far as i have pushed mine yours will be fine ( still at your own risk as is all ocing !)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MechanimaL*
> 
> cpu power power response control


my understanding is this is how fast the vrms respond to power changing ( more or less amps/volts ) but i could be wrong, i always set to extreme ( or w.e. the highest setting is ) iirc
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MechanimaL*
> 
> cpu thermal control


idr iirc i leave this at stock
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MechanimaL*
> 
> cpu power phase control


how many phases are ready as i understand it -i always set to extreme ( or w.e. the highest setting is ) iirc
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MechanimaL*
> 
> and might it be useful to raise cpu vdda (currently 2.52V).
> 
> thank you so much for any input


leave this at stock ( 2.5 ) imo

as to the temps what is your cpu/nb volts? you want generally and with few exceptions cpu/nb llc at standard or high ( standard is less heat ) and no more then 1.1+.01v ( stock is 1.1v 1.2 is good esp on air !

as to power saving

Cool n quiet- downclocks cpu freq and downvolts cpu if left in OFFSET vcore mode- if in manual you still downclock cpu but keep the same volts

c1e AND c6 lets cpu enter low power states ( specific states )


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://superuser.com/questions/184569/what-is-c1e-support-on-my-amd-cpu
FOR SOURCES SEE ABOVE LINK PLEASE
Quote:


> From an AMD Blog:
> 
> C1E is a power management state that allows the processor to reduce power beyond just the cores. With C1E, the processor power can be reduced by lowering the memory controller clock speed and halting the HyperTransport™ technology links. This new feature was extremely important for our 12-core processors with the increase in memory channel support as well as the increase in HyperTransport™ technology links within the design.
> 
> According to AMD's publicly available BIOS and Kernel Developer's Guide, section 2.4.3.3:
> 
> The C1 enhanced state (C1E) is a stop-grant state supported by the processor. The C1E state is characterized by the following properties:
> 
> All cores are in the halt (C1) state.
> The ACPI-defined P_LVL3 register has been accessed.
> The chipset has issued a STPCLK assertion message with the appropriate SMAF for C1E entry. Note that [The ACPI Power State Control Registers] F3x[84:80] specify the processor clocking and voltage behavior in response to the C1E SMAF.
> The processor has issued a STOP_GRANT message to the chipset.
> 
> General requirements for C1E:
> 
> The ACPI-defined C2 and C3 states must not be declared to the operating system.
> C1E should only be enabled when the platform is in ACPI power management mode.


http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/everything-you-need-to-know-about-the-cpu-c-states-power-saving-modes/
Quote:


> C6 Deep Power Down Reduces the CPU internal voltage to any value, including 0 V 45-nm mobile Core 2 Duo only






apm- this throws most people !

in fx it does 3 things ( on most mobos 2 things )
all mobos i have seen
apm throttles the cpu @ 42c ( iirc but it is between 40-42) core temp and throttles at 72c socket temp!
on some mobos but not most !
throttles based on vrm wattage

HPC makes APM ONLY throttle on socket 72deg ( iirc it also take out the wattage throttling, excluding gigas hard coded throttling for vrms on ud3 )


----------



## MechanimaL

thanks for your answer. i ve put that rigbuilder thing in my sig now.


----------



## miklkit

You have an IB-E? I have an IB-E Extreme. The only difference is the fans. That case does not have the best air flow so better case fans should be considered. Also, removing the rear I/O panel will help air flow around the VRMs.

That cooler can slide around a bit when mounting it and the only thing you should be concerned with is that neither it not its fans hit anything. That cooler doesn't fit that motherboard too well as the CPU socket is positioned slightly down and to the rear compared to other motherboards. So be careful there.


----------



## MechanimaL

i checked the difference between open case and closed is about 1-3degree celsius. i have now tried [email protected] 1.39/1.4V (it varies if i use occt or linpack), 2,4nb @1.25, 2,6ht. it was about 50/60°C (core/socket). maybe i change the one back 120mm from the standard nanoxia 1300rounds to a nh120pwm, should be more efficient and not louder i guess. using the top for pushing air out does not seem to have a positive effect. its to close to the cooler-fan. i really think the back fan should be very strong to get the warm air away from that area behind the cpu-cooler?!


----------



## miklkit

That small of a temperature increase is a good sign. I had a top rear exhaust fan for a while and when I removed it temperatures went down some. It was disrupting the air flow.

This thread has loads of good information about fans complete with charts and might help you find the best fans for your case.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1274407/fans-the-most-complete-and-comprehensive-array-of-tests-and-benchmarks


----------



## Kalistoval

I have a set of these fans http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181027 do they work better via the cpu fan headers or molex adapter.


----------



## Mega Man

Personal pref


----------



## Kalistoval

Do they perform the same as in max rpm. Also what would be a good fan controller?. I want to get some
deltas in a few week and was wondering if a controller could tame them 4 to 5k rpm. I do know that deltas
and fan headers don't mix. For now though I just wanna make sure I am getting max rpm out of these, noise
means nothing to me at the moment and these I cant even hear.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kalistoval*
> 
> Do they perform the same as in max rpm. Also what would be a good fan controller?. I want to get some
> deltas in a few week and was wondering if a controller could tame them 4 to 5k rpm. I do know that deltas
> and fan headers don't mix. For now though I just wanna make sure I am getting max rpm out of these, noise
> means nothing to me at the moment and these I cant even hear.


Just pick PWM fans. Run 12V via a molex, PWM wires to the mobo headers. Or simply via a PWM hub like Phanteks'.

Be careful choosing the Delta. They have different SKUs within the same models. I have different sets of them.

The bests I have are 24V AFB1212H. Runs 3800RPM at 24 but tameable to 1800 at 12V. Runs til 5V. And are better than most fans at the given speed.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kalistoval*
> 
> Do they perform the same as in max rpm. Also what would be a good fan controller?. I want to get some
> deltas in a few week and was wondering if a controller could tame them 4 to 5k rpm. I do know that deltas
> and fan headers don't mix. For now though I just wanna make sure I am getting max rpm out of these, noise
> means nothing to me at the moment and these I cant even hear.


The best fan controller out there is the Aquacomputer.

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/index.php?cPath=62_63_64


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kalistoval*
> 
> Do they perform the same as in max rpm. Also what would be a good fan controller?. I want to get some
> deltas in a few week and was wondering if a controller could tame them 4 to 5k rpm. I do know that deltas
> and fan headers don't mix. For now though I just wanna make sure I am getting max rpm out of these, noise
> means nothing to me at the moment and these I cant even hear.


as stated aquaero and pwm


----------



## Kalistoval

Thanks guys.


----------



## JerDerv

Hia guys, I'm a new kitty owner


----------



## warpuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JerDerv*
> 
> Hia guys, I'm a new kitty owner


look familiar ?



I llke how the 380s need one less need power cable than 285s


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JerDerv*
> 
> Hia guys, I'm a new kitty owner


Move the memory sticks ti the slots closer to the CPU.

Lower latency in there.









Oh I forgot.

That doesn't look too far off the last build. Nice job!


----------



## JerDerv

Thanks man







I was just following the manual. I'll move them over. I'm working in a 5ghz overclock. It's more time consuming than I imagined.


----------



## JerDerv

I moved the ram to the brown slots and it wouldnt post. Just kept giving me the DRAM LED Memok button didnt work.

On another note im having what might be a normal problem or something rather odd. Chassis fan headers CHA_1,CHA_2, and CHA_3 all make a high pitched noise that matches the frequency of the fan speed. Manually controlling the fan speed with speedfan changes the frequency of the noise. Shutting the fans off makes the noise go away. Stopping the fan with my fingers makes the noise go away. I have tried 4 different fans even a non PWM 3 pin fan does it. I dont think its the fan making the noise its the controller on the board or something. CPU and CPU OPT headers do not do this. CHA_4 also does not do it.

Opinions?
You have to turn it up quite a bit to hear it but my mic did record it.


----------



## Mega Man

are they pwm fans ?


----------



## JerDerv

Yes noctua redux pwm fans and I tried two other pwm fans. Also tried just a 3 pin 12v fan. Noise is coming from the board not the fans. Probably should Rma but don't want to.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> are they pwm fans ?


wasnt there an issue with running certain pwm fans on the "PWM" chassis headers on this board that simply mimic pwm percentages through voltage control? i thought i remember someone having this issue with certain fans and noise


----------



## Mega Man

Correct. They are not pwm which causes the noise


----------



## mus1mus

Nice info.

Apparently, you can fix that by buying a PWM fan hub and use the CPU header to control the fans.

IIRC, the headers near the VRM heatsink close to the PCIE slots are PWM. But both mirror another headers' control.


----------



## JerDerv

+5v instead of pwm. However chassis fan 4 doesn't make the sound. What the manual doesn't show is that there are only 3 controls for all the headers. CPU fans, Cha 1-3, and cha 4. Cha 1-3 all make same noise on the board. CPU and cha 4 do not.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JerDerv*
> 
> +5v instead of pwm. However chassis fan 4 doesn't make the sound. What the manual doesn't show is that there are only 3 controls for all the headers. CPU fans, Cha 1-3, and cha 4. Cha 1-3 all make same noise on the board. CPU and cha 4 do not.


never noticed that when I skimmed through the manual...I have the same noise with my chassis two and 3 header but my fans are ran at 100 percent all the time so I can't hear it over the fans turbulence...I only turn on my pc when I'm on it and rarely leave it in overnight..also the three fans connected to those voltage controlled headers are pwm fans..all cougar 120s....front vrm, rear socket, and top rear exhaust


----------



## ydrogios

Here is my sabertooth + Amd 8370 watercooling system.I hope soon to put water on motherboard .Also i will change the motherboard backplate because that one is just for testing

http://s278.photobucket.com/user/ydrogios/media/DSC00337_zps79ovnh0l.jpg.html


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ydrogios*
> 
> Here is my sabertooth + Amd 8370 watercooling system.I hope soon to put water on motherboard .Also i will change the motherboard backplate because that one is just for testing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s278.photobucket.com/user/ydrogios/media/DSC00337_zps79ovnh0l.jpg.html


Scroll back a few pages and you will see a couple of Users here with watercooled VRM. One has a guide to do just that.

360s looking sooo cute on a 900D.









And ohh, OC that thing!


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: shhhh ! be very quiet ! or you will scare it away, today we are very lucky to have pictures of an elusive tx10



... with a 360 monsta


----------



## mus1mus

You freakin' tease!

I was sooo excited clicking the spoiler thinking you are posting image galore.









What I mean is, that case screams for a 480 or 2.


----------



## Mega Man

.... [email protected][email protected]!

mine will have at least 10 monstas PER SIDE......

fanless lans... here i come


----------



## Mega Man

derete


----------



## mus1mus

Which pump will you be going BTW?


----------



## Mega Man

I may try d5 for the first time, i dunno at least 4 pumps per side i am hoping to have a cnc so i can make my own pump heads ( quad head ! )


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> .... [email protected][email protected]!
> 
> mine will have at least 10 monstas PER SIDE......
> 
> fanless lans... here i come


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I may try d5 for the first time, i dunno at least 4 pumps per side i am hoping to have a cnc so i can make my own pump heads ( quad head ! )


Not sure if serious about the fanless ... certainly can't see the wardrobe-sized CL rolling to a LAN party









But if you Are trying to do the passive thing you might not want four D5s as they do add a little heat to the loop. I like that they're watercooled but passive cooling just my two D5s, with 15 120spots at an avg thickness just over 60, they ever so slowly but do raise the water temperature at 4500rpm. Admittedly that was in a bathroom while filling the loop so no real airflow


----------



## Mega Man

but 10 480s.......

as to the lan party. easy i have a truck, i have ramps and i have a crane/hoist


----------



## mus1mus

Might be time you look for an IWAKI.

I have seen this kind of a monstrous set-up that failed even with 4 d5s.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1508183/sponsored-super-monsta/400_50#post_23116582


----------



## Mega Man

nah d5s/ddcs/mcp350x are finr for such a small loop


----------



## ydrogios

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Scroll back a few pages and you will see a couple of Users here with watercooled VRM. One has a guide to do just that.
> 
> 360s looking sooo cute on a 900D.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ohh, OC that thing!


Here is my Oc!!!
http://s278.photobucket.com/user/ydrogios/media/valley benchmark_zps2ryqrvfq.jpg.html


----------



## mus1mus

Congrats but,
http://www.3dmark.com/fs/5607835


----------



## mirzet1976

Or this


----------



## mus1mus

Show off!

BTW, that us hard to view buddy. You can easily upload it thru OCN and it will do the rest.


----------



## mirzet1976

Is this better


----------



## OzPapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> You could always keep trying to find the receipt and while trying to get another one from them and keep on trying, sometimes companies will bend the rules for us consumers.


I did find the receipt and contacted AMD AGAIN and they still could not be interested. I have finally have given up on AMD. I have been using their CPU's since the 586 series and I remained loyal by having an AMD and Intel system ever since but now, I am not going to doing anything more with AMD, they can go and get lost.


----------



## Trinergy

RAM Hardware Reservation in Windows 10 (maybe others but never noticed before)

Does your Windows reserve RAM?

Background:
I had 24 GB of RAM installed in 4 slots (2x4GB and 2x8GB) all are Crucial Ballistix Elite 1866Mhz overclocked to 1888MHz @ 8-8-9-24 timings. I removed the 8GB sticks to put into another system.

The system wouldn't boot and I hit the MemOk button reloaded my overclock profile and Windows booted up. I checked task manager and it showed half my memory was reserved for hardware. I clocked the memory down (233Mhz bus from 236) and now I get 15.9 out of 16.

Does this happen to anyone else? is even the 100 MB reservation normal?

It was late so I didn't check my son's computer (Lynnfield based) but I thought I might ask all of you while I am at work. Only time I ever remember memory being used by hardware was with an integrated GPU. It's the weirdest thing. It's obvious that the 16GB sticks are not happy about the overclock but they worked fine when paired with the other memory. They passed 1000% run of HCI Memtest. It looks like in 2 stick mode they are sad.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> RAM Hardware Reservation in Windows 10 (maybe others but never noticed before)
> 
> Does your Windows reserve RAM?
> 
> Background:
> I had 24 GB of RAM installed in 4 slots (2x4GB and 2x8GB) all are Crucial Ballistix Elite 1866Mhz overclocked to 1888MHz @ 8-8-9-24 timings. I removed the 8GB sticks to put into another system.
> 
> The system wouldn't boot and I hit the MemOk button reloaded my overclock profile and Windows booted up. I checked task manager and it showed half my memory was reserved for hardware. I clocked the memory down (233Mhz bus from 236) and now I get 15.9 out of 16.
> 
> Does this happen to anyone else? is even the 100 MB reservation normal?
> 
> It was late so I didn't check my son's computer (Lynnfield based) but I thought I might ask all of you while I am at work. Only time I ever remember memory being used by hardware was with an integrated GPU. It's the weirdest thing. It's obvious that the 16GB sticks are not happy about the overclock but they worked fine when paired with the other memory. They passed 1000% run of HCI Memtest. It looks like in 2 stick mode they are sad.


@Agent Smith1984 had thus issue might want to ask him how he resolved..it escapes me right now


----------



## mus1mus

Ohh dear, *RAM MIXING & OC* not again.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Ohh dear, *RAM MIXING & OC* not again.


Mine seem to be behaving lately, not sure why but I'm even at 1900mhz and decent CAS ratings.


----------



## mus1mus

Well then, imma head outta here.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Well then, imma head outta here.


You're not staying for tea? But... I bought biscuits and everything!


----------



## Trinergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Ohh dear, *RAM MIXING & OC* not again.


They actually worked better mixed and all slots filled. Now that it is just two it doesn't want to play.

In any case, @Agent Smith1984 responded to my PM and he had the problem with 4 sticks. Had to go down to 2 sticks with a different brand. Never figured out the problem with the original RAM. So there must be some issue with the kitty and elites.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> They actually worked better mixed and all slots filled. Now that it is just two it doesn't want to play.
> 
> In any case, @Agent Smith1984 responded to my PM and he had the problem with 4 sticks. Had to go down to 2 sticks with a different brand. Never figured out the problem with the original RAM. So there must be some issue with the kitty and elites.


sorry i thought he had fixed it without changing


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> You're not staying for tea? But... I bought biscuits and everything!


h,mmmmm








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> They actually worked better mixed and all slots filled. Now that it is just two it doesn't want to play.
> 
> In any case, @Agent Smith1984 responded to my PM and he had the problem with 4 sticks. Had to go down to 2 sticks with a different brand. Never figured out the problem with the original RAM. So there must be some issue with the kitty and elites.


Ballistix Elite eh?

Sounds familiar to me.


----------



## mattg

Im now an owner after coming from a 990 killer. should have just went this mobo from the start. heat in the killer was well... killer.....


----------



## Minotaurtoo

My son will be a new owner come Christmas : )


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattg*
> 
> Im now an owner after coming from a 990 killer. should have just went this mobo from the start. heat in the killer was well... killer.....


You know it's funny.....I know the killer is bad for anything but stock and i know it's a waste of money but I still want one for lols


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> You know it's funny.....I know the killer is bad for anything but stock and i know it's a waste of money but I still want one for lols


it does fine until 4.4...then cooling it and it's shortcomings show up fast...regardless the standard socket and vrm fans apply...even at stock for this one....


----------



## mattg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> You know it's funny.....I know the killer is bad for anything but stock and i know it's a waste of money but I still want one for lols


haha i didnt know it was going to be bad till i had it. i didnt believe people till i got a sabre and watched socket temps drop heaps!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattg*
> 
> haha i didnt know it was going to be bad till i had it. i didnt believe people till i got a sabre and watched socket temps drop heaps!


I was an early adopter when I bought mine it had been out maybe a month or so...I was very happy with it at first because I had come here and learned a vrm and socket fan were good ideas...little did I know 20 dollars more would have made me ten times happier.....not that it was horrible...I actually liked a few of the features..killer nic did a good job...onboard sound wasn't to bad...and it actually boots faster than my saber does...but I quickly realized when I couldn't get over 1.42v under load without offsets (because of .14 droop from bios to full load) this wasn't the board I thought it was


----------



## BulletBait

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattg*
> 
> haha i didnt know it was going to be bad till i had it. i didnt believe people till i got a sabre and watched socket temps drop heaps!


I'll start off by saying, the Saber was hands down one of the best boards I ever had. Now I'm going to qualify that with, enjoy your VRM temps now, that's what's going to hold you back and you'll complain about from now on


----------



## mattg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletBait*
> 
> I'll start off by saying, the Saber was hands down one of the best boards I ever had. Now I'm going to qualify that with, enjoy your VRM temps now, that's what's going to hold you back and you'll complain about from now on


haha yeah do they have a temp sensor that aida64 can read?


----------



## BulletBait

Reads as 'vcore temp.' Anyways, it SHOULDN'T get so hot to cause thermal shutdown. I just had problems with stability once temperatures started getting high. Although I have heard of problems with bad thermal pads not actually contacting the VRMs and providing proper cooling, I actually honestly never looked underneath mine, that might have been it.

BUT, here's a thread on building your own watercooling block should you run into that problem and actually feel like going through the hassle of 'making your own.' Again, I never bothered to. Watercool Sabertooth 990FX VRM/NB Or... you can just zip tie small fans to the cooler like I've seen a lot of people do if you just air cool.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletBait*
> 
> I'll start off by saying, the Saber was hands down one of the best boards I ever had. Now I'm going to qualify that with, enjoy your VRM temps now, that's what's going to hold you back and you'll complain about from now on


if you had vrm temps with the saber you either don't have active cooling on it or you had bad contact....


----------



## cab2

Best mobo ever.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> Best mobo ever.


I'm liking the "brace"


----------



## cab2

OK more brace then


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattg*
> 
> haha i didnt know it was going to be bad till i had it. i didnt believe people till i got a sabre and watched socket temps drop heaps!


Til you get a chance to have a hand on a Crosshair V FZ, the kitty is a very good board when taking about VRM and Socket temps.

For a comparison, the Kitty have at least 10C deficit in VRM and Socket temps when matched by a CHVFZ.

But for OC capabilities, they are just on par.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> if you had vrm temps with the saber you either don't have active cooling on it or you had bad contact....


True and +1.


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

http://valid.x86.fr/ihy78h
The PCB gets so hot so my votlages are limited to 1.306at Prime 95







Need more copper on PCB


----------



## Minotaurtoo

quick question... may have been answered before, but I'm short on time tonight to look... anyone running an 8320e on the rev 1 saberkitty? and if so, how does it work... I noticed its not on the supported cpu list on asus site is why I ask


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> quick question... may have been answered before, but I'm short on time tonight to look... anyone running an 8320e on the rev 1 saberkitty? and if so, how does it work... I noticed its not on the supported cpu list on asus site is why I ask


You may be able to get away by updating to a old BIOS, I had 970 d3p and I updated to newest bios and it says 9370 not supported. with older bios before 9370 was released it booted and ran.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1581759/cant-stablilize-at-4-7ghz-fx-8320e/80#post_24673275

This guy running 8320e on sabertooth

I'm thinking that probally the 9 seires draws more current while manting a lower temp compared to 8 series(at same volts). Thus overheating the socket and being capable of running higher frequencies

970 d3p did better than sabertooth with socket temps, both had LET to insulate and run that water cooling cooled with peltiers.
970 freaks out at about 1.5V , Sabertooth freaks out approximatly 1.3V

I've overclocked neally half of the day yesterday, and had overclocked the whole morning today stablzing my clocks


----------



## Sgt Bilko

So my board is still shutting down if i try to go above 1.6v even "ignoring" the VCore reading in Bios.......am i doing something wrong?


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> So my board is still shutting down if i try to go above 1.6v even "ignoring" the VCore reading in Bios.......am i doing something wrong?


check temps with hw monitor and vcore


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iwamotto Tetsuz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> So my board is still shutting down if i try to go above 1.6v even "ignoring" the VCore reading in Bios.......am i doing something wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> check temps with hw monitor and vcore
Click to expand...

Temps aren't an issue and Vcore is what it's supposed to be


----------



## mus1mus

lol Sarge.

I see the same at 1.7.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> lol Sarge.
> 
> I see the same at 1.7.


So what do you think?

Varies board to board and chip to chip?

I'm pretty lost on this atm tbh lol


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> lol Sarge.
> 
> I see the same at 1.7.
> 
> 
> 
> So what do you think?
> 
> Varies board to board and chip to chip?
> 
> I'm pretty lost on this atm tbh lol
Click to expand...

Curious about the batch number


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> lol Sarge.
> 
> I see the same at 1.7.
> 
> 
> 
> So what do you think?
> 
> Varies board to board and chip to chip?
> 
> I'm pretty lost on this atm tbh lol
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Curious about the batch number
Click to expand...

And I'd love to tell you.....but I've forgotten it and i can't find the picture i took of it









I think it's a 1413 batch 9590 but I'm not 100% sure atm


----------



## mus1mus

My 8320 does the same with either the KITTy or the CHV. So is my 8370E.

I guess it has something to do with cooling. Something that we deem safe.
Prolly needs to be sub-zero to stretch.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> lol Sarge.
> 
> I see the same at 1.7.
> 
> 
> 
> So what do you think?
> 
> Varies board to board and chip to chip?
> 
> I'm pretty lost on this atm tbh lol
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Curious about the batch number
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> And I'd love to tell you.....but I've forgotten it and i can't find the picture i took of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it's a 1413 batch 9590 but I'm not 100% sure atm
Click to expand...

On the kitty there are 3 or 4 temps in the BIOS that you have to disable the monitor. I can't remember but I just turned them all off since I monitor my temps in other ways. There is also the digi options that you need to work with as well to insure the proper frequency is being met to suppl the power. Been a wile so Ill leave it here.. what all do you have set in BIOS?


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> quick question... may have been answered before, but I'm short on time tonight to look... anyone running an 8320e on the rev 1 saberkitty? and if so, how does it work... I noticed its not on the supported cpu list on asus site is why I ask


Yes, I am. See my specs below. I'm using the "latest"







BIOS ver 1604.

No issues at all. All the 8 core FX chips are the same. The mobo pulls the voltages, speeds, etc. off the actual chip, not a database in the BIOS. So the BIOS even reports it as a 8320E and everything.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Yes, I am. See my specs below. I'm using the "latest"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BIOS ver 1604.
> 
> No issues at all. All the 8 core FX chips are the same. The mobo pulls the voltages, speeds, etc. off the actual chip, not a database in the BIOS. So the BIOS even reports it as a 8320E and everything.


Ah hello fellow Rev 1 Kitty board owner!

Mine's looking cool as hell!


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Ah hello fellow Rev 1 Kitty board owner!
> 
> Mine's looking cool as hell!


Nice cooling solution you got there. I even have the same PSU.

Not many Rev1 owners, I think, but mine has always been rock solid between a Phenom II X6 1090T @ 4 GHz (overclocking this is what made be get the Sabertooth - blew the Vregs in my old MSI 790FX-GD70) , X4 955 @ 3.7 GHz (C2 revision), and my current 8320e @ 4.5 GHz.

If I go higher than my current clock, I'm thinking about better socket cooling, like many have done here, a fan behind the the socket. Still, 4.5 GHz is good for pretty much every game.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Nice cooling solution you got there. I even have the same PSU.
> 
> Not many Rev1 owners, I think, but mine has always been rock solid between a Phenom II X6 1090T @ 4 GHz (overclocking this is what made be get the Sabertooth - blew the Vregs in my old MSI 790FX-GD70) , X4 955 @ 3.7 GHz (C2 revision), and my current 8320e @ 4.5 GHz.
> 
> If I go higher than my current clock, I'm thinking about better socket cooling, like many have done here, a fan behind the the socket. Still, 4.5 GHz is good for pretty much every game.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> So what do you think?
> 
> Varies board to board and chip to chip?
> 
> I'm pretty lost on this atm tbh lol


I've never has this happen with mine BUT my CHV-Z will do something similar once I go so far with it.

Probrably a thermal spike triggering a shutdown.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryton*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> So what do you think?
> 
> Varies board to board and chip to chip?
> 
> I'm pretty lost on this atm tbh lol
> 
> 
> 
> I've never has this happen with mine BUT my CHV-Z will do something similar once I go so far with it.
> 
> Probrably a thermal spike triggering a shutdown.
Click to expand...

Same setup on a CVF-Z didnt do it

Sitting in an airport in Malaysia atm and i won't be getting back to my Kitty for over a month so it can wait now


----------



## mus1mus

Have a great holidays sarge.


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*


Yup, that's pretty much what I'd do before seriously finding the limit's of my CPU, I even might attach small heatsinks to the back of the stock Vreg mount.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Have a great holidays sarge.


Will do!

In Amsterdam atm just about to jump on my last flight......then sleep for 36 hours


----------



## JerDerv

This helped my socket temp and even dropped VRM temps quite a bit. 92mmx14mm motor sits between the socket and vrm so the fan blades are over the socket and vrm.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JerDerv*
> 
> This helped my socket temp and even dropped VRM temps quite a bit. 92mmx14mm motor sits between the socket and vrm so the fan blades are over the socket and vrm.


exactly where it should be nice job...


----------



## Archea47

So ... the write speed is nice but the reads are lower than expected (on par with single drives):





Is this a limitation of the Sabertooth/990FX?

I do recall Windows wouldn't install unless I used the smallest block size on the RAID. I know the Toshiba NAND flash in my drives is architected for 4k blocks but Win7 simply wouldn't install (issue seen elsewhere online)


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JerDerv*
> 
> This helped my socket temp and even dropped VRM temps quite a bit. 92mmx14mm motor sits between the socket and vrm so the fan blades are over the socket and vrm.


Did you add any small chipset heatsinks to the Vreg back bracket or even on a metal socket backplate?


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Yes, I am. See my specs below. I'm using the "latest"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BIOS ver 1604.
> 
> No issues at all. All the 8 core FX chips are the same. The mobo pulls the voltages, speeds, etc. off the actual chip, not a database in the BIOS. So the BIOS even reports it as a 8320E and everything.


great... got it in and runnign today... son is happy... corsair h80i running at 4.5 ghz right now...


----------



## deeph

Hi, I have problem with my PCI-E #1 x16. If I use it, it will run slow and also showed up artifacts. But now running on PCIE #2 x4, runs fine now. Are there any noticeable differences between x16 and x4?
What make those problem like that?

deeph


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> Hi, I have problem with my PCI-E #1 x16. If I use it, it will run slow and also showed up artifacts. But now running on PCIE #2 x4, runs fine now. Are there any noticeable differences between x16 and x4?
> What make those problem like that?
> 
> deeph


Did you OC the card?

X16 will be you best bet to get the most performance.


----------



## deeph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Did you OC the card?
> 
> X16 will be you best bet to get the most performance.


No, I didn't OC the card. So it means it's time to RMA?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> No, I didn't OC the card. So it means it's time to RMA?


Likely.

What card is that? How about your CPU, CPU-NB, HT Link? Are they OC'ed as well?


----------



## deeph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Likely.
> 
> What card is that? How about your CPU, CPU-NB, HT Link? Are they OC'ed as well?


AMD Firepro card.
Motherboard and CPU have been OC'ed previously but back to default settings from last week.
Ohh, and sometimes when booting the VGA LED on motherboard get stuck (the Red LED lit) then my PC freeze (monitor didn't get signal from Display Port).


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> AMD Firepro card.
> Motherboard and CPU have been OC'ed previously but back to default settings from last week.
> Ohh, and sometimes when booting the VGA LED on motherboard get stuck (the Red LED lit) then my PC freeze (monitor didn't get signal from Display Port).


Didn't realize it has a GPU LED. My bad.

It probably is a GPU initialization issue. Do you have an extra board to test the GPU in to?


----------



## Hardrock

Hey have anyone put the Coolermaster Hyper 212 EVO on this MOBO. How bad is the RAM clearance. I have 8 GB G-Skill sniper (2x4GB) in the tan slots. Hope it fits !

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099


----------



## miklkit

You should have no problems with ram clearance with the 212 as it is a single tower cooler, and only some of the twin tower coolers have any clearance problems at all.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> Hey have anyone put the Coolermaster Hyper 212 EVO on this MOBO. How bad is the RAM clearance. I have 8 GB G-Skill sniper (2x4GB) in the tan slots. Hope it fits !
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099


Check this:




PD: I had the 212 a couple of years ago before my Noctua came to the rescue. I had it with 4 modules of ram installed and got no problems at all. I had that 212 for a week... but was replaced by my Noctua D14 with 2 fans attached.


----------



## Hardrock

Awesome thanks I just got EVGA 980 TI classifieds in SLI and I want to ditch my water cooling to make it all work. I had an old custom loop that was good but bulky. I don't want to spend the money on a new water set up. I think that CPU cooler should be great. Thanks.


----------



## deeph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Didn't realize it has a GPU LED. My bad.
> 
> It probably is a GPU initialization issue. Do you have an extra board to test the GPU in to?


I have another GPU, also have tried with another gpu. Also got the same problem.
Got another behavior, after a PC restart it can't pass booting (VGA led lit). But if I turn off the PC for a while, can boot fine. Confused.


----------



## RAVC

After a lot of reading and patience I have decided the Sabertooth is the board to buy. I have a few general questions that should be answered before I purchase additional components. The first of these concerns the case. I prefer the mid-tower ATX boxes but, suspect I need to give greater priority to cooling requirements required for safe overclocking rather than let the size of the case dictate my purchase. For example, will a mid-tower case require liquid cooling or, can air cooling still work in these smaller cases? Liquid cooling seems to be the best way to go for a board like the Sabertooth but, I am new to all of this and still have a lot to read and learn.

Since the FX/AM3+ cpu is regarded as being near the end of its life I will probably try to obtain a few processors over time. However, I do not see me developing an interest in the 9000-series. I am definitely interested in the 8320E but, should also ask if the Sabertooth prefers a specific FX? I will probably even pick up a 2nd Sabertooth to ensure my investment is protected/preserved since all of this hardware may not remain on the market for long.


----------



## Mega Man

It will work for any 8xxx. Case is personal pref.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAVC*
> 
> After a lot of reading and patience I have decided the Sabertooth is the board to buy. I have a few general questions that should be answered before I purchase additional components. The first of these concerns the case. I prefer the mid-tower ATX boxes but, suspect I need to give greater priority to cooling requirements required for safe overclocking rather than let the size of the case dictate my purchase. For example, will a mid-tower case require liquid cooling or, can air cooling still work in these smaller cases? Liquid cooling seems to be the best way to go for a board like the Sabertooth but, I am new to all of this and still have a lot to read and learn.
> 
> Since the FX/AM3+ cpu is regarded as being near the end of its life I will probably try to obtain a few processors over time. However, I do not see me developing an interest in the 9000-series. I am definitely interested in the 8320E but, should also ask if the Sabertooth prefers a specific FX? I will probably even pick up a 2nd Sabertooth to ensure my investment is protected/preserved since all of this hardware may not remain on the market for long.


phanteks has the m version of the pro I have...great cases...they've come a long way in a short time..you can cool an fx by either method...and how well and what you'll need will vary based on how much you plan to overclock...saber tooth loves all fx processors...


----------



## RAVC

mfknjadagr8 - Thanks! These look like really nice cases. Good reference and the M Pro is not too costly.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAVC*
> 
> mfknjadagr8 - Thanks! These look like really nice cases. Good reference and the M Pro is not too costly.


iirc the pro m is a decent fit for air cooling...they have several other smaller cases but the pro m is the mid size atx case which is important when using am3+ boards...not many good itx mitx board to overclock on


----------



## Archea47

If you're going to get serious about pushing the Kitty and FX I think you should look at cases that will support water cooling without much modification

Like the Fractal Midi R2 etc


----------



## umeng2002

A cheap $50 Thermaltake case and a Dremel tool go a long way.

I have this case: http://www.thermaltake.com/Chassis/Mid_Tower_/ARMOR/C_00001662/Dokker/design.htm

I bought in a pinch. It works well enough except there is barely enough room above the mobo for a radiator with fans and the space for cables behind the mobo tray is quite limited.

Buy a case for size, not material, design, etc. unless you want to spend $200 to make a computer look nice.


----------



## hurricane28

Happy new year Sabertooth buddy's.

Riddle me this, i was looking in the User manual in the memory compatibility page and i saw that this kit was compatible: http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-17000cl11q2-64gbzld

How is it possible to fit 64 GB 8 sticks kit in to an motherboard with only 4 ram slots? lol, assume its an typo or something?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Happy new year Sabertooth buddy's.
> 
> Riddle me this, i was looking in the User manual in the memory compatibility page and i saw that this kit was compatible: http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-17000cl11q2-64gbzld
> 
> How is it possible to fit 64 GB 8 sticks kit in to an motherboard with only 4 ram slots? lol, assume its an typo or something?


You didn't know each of the slot can fit 2 dimms at once?









Seriously, means that if you take any 4 sticks from that kit and insert them into the kitty, they will work properly according to their profile.

No brainstorming needed to figure that out.

Which is a logic I really did not expect from you.









And I am willing to bet, the kit is listed in the 32GB Capacity in the QVL.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> A cheap $50 Thermaltake case and a Dremel tool go a long way.
> 
> I have this case: http://www.thermaltake.com/Chassis/Mid_Tower_/ARMOR/C_00001662/Dokker/design.htm
> 
> I bought in a pinch. It works well enough except there is barely enough room above the mobo for a radiator with fans and the space for cables behind the mobo tray is quite limited.
> 
> Buy a case for size, not material, design, etc. unless you want to spend $200 to make a computer look nice.


or just buy a CL cause they are awesome !!!


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> or just buy a CL cause they are awesome !!!


Every time I want to buy a nice case, I always make the argument about putting the money into something else, ha.


----------



## Mega Man

why spend what we spend on a pc and dump them into a 50 dollar box, ? buy a real box and reuse it !~~


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> why spend what we spend on a pc and dump them into a 50 dollar box, ? buy a real box and reuse it !~~


What makes you think I don't reuse the $50 box?









It just seems, as I mentioned before, I simply use my budget on other parts first before thinking of a case. I "feel" like getting a nice case sometimes, but then I talk myself out of it somehow.


----------



## warpuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> phanteks has the m version of the pro I have...great cases...they've come a long way in a short time..you can cool an fx by either method...and how well and what you'll need will vary based on how much you plan to overclock...saber tooth loves all fx processors...


My 8350 does well with a Noctua C-14 (downdraft type) 4.4 Ghz and 28C ambient. IT WILL DO 4.6Ghz AT 19C. To get more (4.6 Ghz) at 28C temps would need a D15 Noctua or some other double riser, 6 or 7 pipe cooler with 140mm fans or a 240mm all in one (water) and a larger case with more air flow. The case it is in is too small for a internal 240mm AIO and has only 2 120mm B blaster 120 intake and exhaust case fans. The C-14 would probably do better in case that has better airflow. There also is a GTX 690 in that case too.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You didn't know each of the slot can fit 2 dimms at once?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, means that if you take any 4 sticks from that kit and insert them into the kitty, they will work properly according to their profile.
> 
> No brainstorming needed to figure that out.
> 
> Which is a logic I really did not expect from you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I am willing to bet, the kit is listed in the 32GB Capacity in the QVL.


lol, why would someone buy an 64 GB ram kit while the motherboard can only support 32 GB









And no its listed in the QVL as 64 GB, why do you think i bring this up in the first place.. here is the proof:



If you are so eager for action, would you care to make a wager on a proposition?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> My 8350 does well with a Noctua C-14 (downdraft type) 4.4 Ghz and 28C ambient. IT WILL DO 4.6Ghz AT 19C. To get more (4.6 Ghz) at 28C temps would need a D15 Noctua or some other double riser, 6 or 7 pipe cooler with 140mm fans or a 240mm all in one (water) and a larger case with more air flow. The case it is in is too small for a internal 240mm AIO and has only 2 120mm B blaster 120 intake and exhaust case fans. The C-14 would probably do better in case that has better airflow. There also is a GTX 690 in that case too.


edit: misread...but still what are load temps like when stressing?


----------



## warpuck

I use BOINC. I don't have a lot of things going at once. The most stressful thing my rigs do is Battlefield or Mass Effect. BOINC loads the CPU and also the GPU at the same time if you select a GPU task and a GPU task. I have not figured put how to get linpack to run at any speed. When I am talking about the temp it is the ambient temp my Centech DVM temperature probe is reading outside the case. The GPUs run at 74C for the upper one and 57C for the lower one. While this is going on the CPU is doing 53-54C. The CPU don't get that warm when the simulated bullets are flying. The GPUs stay pretty much the same. 73/57


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> lol, why would someone buy an 64 GB ram kit while the motherboard can only support 32 GB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no its listed in the QVL as 64 GB, why do you think i bring this up in the first place.. here is the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> If you are so eager for action, would you care to make a wager on a proposition?


it even states 8 x 8....voodoo trickery involved there....maybe they used their motherboard stretcher...


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> it even states 8 x 8....voodoo trickery involved there....maybe they used their motherboard stretcher...


yeah, i thought it was me but i looked and looked but i couldn't see any more than 4 dimm slots so i was wondering how the heck they could place 8 x 8 kit in the QVL list that only supports 32 GB on 4 slots lol

Maybe you can check your manual too, perhaps its in there, it would also be nice to know if this is an typo or an structural thing.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> it even states 8 x 8....voodoo trickery involved there....maybe they used their motherboard stretcher...
> 
> 
> 
> yeah, i thought it was me but i looked and looked but i couldn't see any more than 4 dimm slots so i was wondering how the heck they could place 8 x 8 kit in the QVL list that only supports 32 GB on 4 slots lol
> 
> Maybe you can check your manual too, perhaps its in there, it would also be nice to know if this is an typo or an structural thing.
Click to expand...

There is no trickery. The memory set is 8 sticks x 8gb. I see nothing stating you can/have to use all 8 sticks. It is a qvl not a can use list. It seems as people are trying to "make a storm in a cup" and yet the same people ignore serious issues about other products while this issue which is minor and not that difficult to understand.


----------



## Xiltyn

Hey all. I'm running an FX9590 on the Sabertooth 990fx r2. Would like to be added as well, but also had a question for everyone.
My psu must have shorted out or something and damaged a few other components so I'm rebuilding my rig (happened on a different Mobo).
I've got an R9 390 coming wednesday and 8g of amd radeon r9 memory coming tomorrow. Will be my first all amd rig in a very long time.
So my questions is to any one else running this memory on this board:

Having any issues?
Have you tried out the AMD ramdisk with it and if so how's that working out for you?
(Yeah I know for gaming the ramdisk with as little ram as I'm putting in this machine right now isn't going to be worth doing but I'm going to be adding more memory over time
and would love to be able to fully load The Division into ram to play it when it's released. ~ actually hoping to be at 32g ram and xfire 2xr9 390's by it's release).

Thanks for any input


----------



## Mega Man

Just a fyi 32gb at 2400 (?) Is hard to push. But 16 Gb is generally pretty easy


----------



## Xiltyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Just a fyi 32gb at 2400 (?) Is hard to push. But 16 Gb is generally pretty easy


That is actually something I'm debating. Right now I have 2x4gb sticks on the way. By hard to push what do you mean? the fx9590 doesn't make use of it well or?

oh yeah this is all running on an ax1200i psu now too.

and yeah hoping to have it at 2400 as it's rated to pull that off


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xiltyn*
> 
> That is actually something I'm debating. Right now I have 2x4gb sticks on the way. By hard to push what do you mean? the fx9590 doesn't make use of it well or?
> 
> oh yeah this is all running on an ax1200i psu now too.
> 
> and yeah hoping to have it at 2400 as it's rated to pull that off


In other words 2400 is a ram over clock that will probably not play well with the CPU timings. Once you add 4 sticks of ram against a AMD CPU it becomes harder to overclock. The Highest you may achieve is 1866. I have 1866 at 4.7 GHZ with the FX 9590 two sticks.The stars and the moon would have to be aligned at the right angle to the sun to achieve the overclock on the ram at. 2400. I also believe the motherboard will only overclock to 1866 and calls for ram running at 1866 max.

See information on motherboard here - Memory standard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131877


----------



## Xiltyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> In other words 2400 is a ram over clock that will probably not play well with the CPU timings. Once you add 4 sticks of ram against a AMD CPU it becomes harder to overclock. The Highest you may achieve is 1866. I have 1866 at 4.7 GHZ with the FX 9590 two sticks.The stars and the moon would have to be aligned at the right angle to the sun to achieve the overclock on the ram at. 2400. I also believe the motherboard will only overclock to 1866 and calls for ram running at 1866 max.
> 
> See information on motherboard here - Memory standard
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131877


Hrmm so the QVL be damned? (altho this ram isn't listed in the QVL anyways) trying to find the updated qvl list link again to share with you but Asus lists some @ 2400 on it as well as in the manual that comes with the board
and good to know about the 4 sticks with amd cpu. guess I'll probably just stick to 16g then and forget about ramdisk'n it.

Updated QVL:
https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R20/HelpDesk_QVL/


----------



## mus1mus

People can try though.









32GB at 2400 hmmmm.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> There is no trickery. The memory set is 8 sticks x 8gb. I see nothing stating you can/have to use all 8 sticks. It is a qvl not a can use list. It seems as people are trying to "make a storm in a cup" and yet the same people ignore serious issues about other products while this issue which is minor and not that difficult to understand.


why would they even include something in the list that couldnt actually be installed on the motherboard... and who the hell would buy 8 x 8 kit for a 4 slot board unless they had two and wanted to divide it.. i understand that its saying that ram will work with the board... but someone not so bright might think... oh wow it supports this 64 gig kit then be pissed when the board ships with 4 slots... it actually makes me wonder what ever happened to the double height sticks 16gb per stick they were trying to make sometime back... i remember seeing them in an article but they never came to pass im guessing... i do see that they do have 16gb sticks.. but it appears those are geared towards server usage..i did come across this little beast though... not very practical or cost efficient but i wasnt even aware they made a 32gb stick...it also appears that most of these higher capacity sticks are registered (server gear)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8H53HE3983


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Xiltyn*
> 
> That is actually something I'm debating. Right now I have 2x4gb sticks on the way. By hard to push what do you mean? the fx9590 doesn't make use of it well or?
> 
> oh yeah this is all running on an ax1200i psu now too.
> 
> and yeah hoping to have it at 2400 as it's rated to pull that off
> 
> 
> 
> In other words 2400 is a ram over clock that will probably not play well with the CPU timings. Once you add 4 sticks of ram against a AMD CPU it becomes harder to overclock. The Highest you may achieve is 1866. I have 1866 at 4.7 GHZ with the FX 9590 two sticks.The stars and the moon would have to be aligned at the right angle to the sun to achieve the overclock on the ram at. 2400. I also believe the motherboard will only overclock to 1866 and calls for ram running at 1866 max.
> 
> See information on motherboard here - Memory standard
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131877
Click to expand...

No I mean it is harder. The Saber kitty and cvfz both are some of the few that I would argue can.

I do 16gb 2400 cl10 ( my socks are 8gb and don't like cl9. All 2400 cl9 kid ate 4GB socks that I have seen (ddr3 of course ) and even intel 2400 was har to push till after Sandy bridge when this cpu was released

Harder to push means harder. You will probably either lose on heat generation and to high of voltage damaging your performance ( cpu/nb performance drops with to much voltage I have noticed ) or your imc/board can not do it.

Generally 16gb is doable but not always at 2400
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xiltyn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> In other words 2400 is a ram over clock that will probably not play well with the CPU timings. Once you add 4 sticks of ram against a AMD CPU it becomes harder to overclock. The Highest you may achieve is 1866. I have 1866 at 4.7 GHZ with the FX 9590 two sticks.The stars and the moon would have to be aligned at the right angle to the sun to achieve the overclock on the ram at. 2400. I also believe the motherboard will only overclock to 1866 and calls for ram running at 1866 max.
> 
> See information on motherboard here - Memory standard
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131877
> 
> 
> 
> Hrmm so the QVL be damned? (altho this ram isn't listed in the QVL anyways) trying to find the updated qvl list link again to share with you but Asus lists some @ 2400 on it as well as in the manual that comes with the board
> and good to know about the 4 sticks with amd cpu. guess I'll probably just stick to 16g then and forget about ramdisk'n it.
> 
> Updated QVL:
> https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R20/HelpDesk_QVL/
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> There is no trickery. The memory set is 8 sticks x 8gb. I see nothing stating you can/have to use all 8 sticks. It is a qvl not a can use list. It seems as people are trying to "make a storm in a cup" and yet the same people ignore serious issues about other products while this issue which is minor and not that difficult to understand.
> 
> 
> 
> why would they even include something in the list that couldnt actually be installed on the motherboard... and who the hell would buy 8 x 8 kit for a 4 slot board unless they had two and wanted to divide it.. i understand that its saying that ram will work with the board... but someone not so bright might think... oh wow it supports this 64 gig kit then be pissed when the board ships with 4 slots... it actually makes me wonder what ever happened to the double height sticks 16gb per stick they were trying to make sometime back... i remember seeing them in an article but they never came to pass im guessing... i do see that they do have 16gb sticks.. but it appears those are geared towards server usage..i did come across this little beast though... not very practical or cost efficient but i wasnt even aware they made a 32gb stick...it also appears that most of these higher capacity sticks are registered (server gear)
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8H53HE3983
Click to expand...

All the qvl is is something that has been tested to work with the mobo. Nothing more. As is everything in life if you need 64gb ram you would need to be an informed shopper. Going further no one who needs 64gb ram would be using our stuff anyway. They would be using server stuffs


----------



## Xiltyn

True however there is a difference between 'need' and desire. For instance my own intention of wanting to return to days of fully loading a program into RAM, heck OS and program would be amazing using today's technology. Frankly I've long been surprised that we steered away from doing just that and we certainly have windows to thank for it. Heck even while Linux's swap partition has it's uses virtual ram (which even windows tries to use) pales especially compared to the performance difference between it and true RAM. If 16g ddr3 sticks at 2400 (even OC'd) were available at a reasonable cost and this mobo was rated to be able to handle them (not to mention as well as some postiive feedback from others trying it) I would definitely go that route. Would I 'NEED' it? Heck no but we don't need a 980ti or 5ghz multiple core processors either









Agreed on the QVL simply being a successful test but one usually respects the manufacturers tests even while expecting them to be a little bloated in order to improve their sales. Some times more than a little and hence my comment about tossing them out the window. Certainly wouldn't be the first time I've found ASUS's claims to fall short (not to mention quite a few other manufacturers out there) and why I asked if anyone else in the thread is pairing this particular RAM with this mobo.


----------



## Mega Man

16gb is very easy to have at 2400. but ram disks have their place and can be useful. it is far better we dont use them commonly, it is far to easy to corrupt your data using them ( improperly ) but esp with SSDs and the low cost there there is little if any reason to use ramdisks for the average consumers


----------



## RAVC

I am getting concerned regarding Rev. 2.0 boards...they have vanished in 1 day from my local Microcenter and they even had a few open box items when I checked their website Sunday. Today, nothing is in stock. Has Asus pulled these from production already? I am also seeing unscrupulous re-sellers asking $400 for these as of today. Similar examples from individuals on ebay and CL. Is Rev 2.o far better than 1.0? I may need to restrict my attention to the used market to find an affordable one if this trend continues. I have interest only in the FX-8000 series, I can leave the 9000- series completely alone.


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAVC*
> 
> I am getting concerned regarding Rev. 2.0 boards...they have vanished in 1 day from my local Microcenter and they even had a few open box items when I checked their website Sunday. Today, nothing is in stock. Has Asus pulled these from production already? I am also seeing unscrupulous re-sellers asking $400 for these as of today. Similar examples from individuals on ebay and CL. Is Rev 2.o far better than 1.0? I may need to restrict my attention to the used market to find an affordable one if this trend continues. I have interest only in the FX-8000 series, I can leave the 9000- series completely alone.


The biggest thing rev 2 adds over 1 is that the memory is now controlled by Digi+. Only the CPU was controlled by Digi+ in rev1.

The BIOS is twice as large to facilitate Windows quick boot or whatever it's called.

The memory traces to the CPU and slots were reworked.

It also features slightly newer power saving specs, ACPI or whatever it's called.

Other than that, I think maybe they got rid of the PS/2 port on the back? I'm not sure.

Rev1 and Rev2 are on the same level for OC'ing (except maybe the RAM) unlike when Gigabyte or whoever neuters boards with newer revisions.


----------



## RAVC

Comforting news. Thanks. I suspected the 1.0 would be sufficient and it should be. However, I still plan to get at least one Rev 2.0.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> There is no trickery. The memory set is 8 sticks x 8gb. I see nothing stating you can/have to use all 8 sticks. It is a qvl not a can use list. It seems as people are trying to "make a storm in a cup" and yet the same people ignore serious issues about other products while this issue which is minor and not that difficult to understand.


I have the idea that you don't even understand what i am trying to say most of the time but just want to argue and want to be right all the time..

QVL means that its compatible with this motherboard, my question is to why people want to buy such an expensive kit and only use half of it instead of buying an 32 Gb kit in the first place.. it doesn't make any sense to me.

and what do you mean by this: " It seems as people are trying to "make a storm in a cup" and yet the same people ignore serious issues about other products while this issue which is minor and not that difficult to understand."

I am sorry but sometimes i have difficulty reading and understanding your posts, and it seems i am not the only one.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> why would they even include something in the list that couldnt actually be installed on the motherboard... and who the hell would buy 8 x 8 kit for a 4 slot board unless they had two and wanted to divide it.. i understand that its saying that ram will work with the board... but someone not so bright might think... oh wow it supports this 64 gig kit then be pissed when the board ships with 4 slots... it actually makes me wonder what ever happened to the double height sticks 16gb per stick they were trying to make sometime back... i remember seeing them in an article but they never came to pass im guessing... i do see that they do have 16gb sticks.. but it appears those are geared towards server usage..i did come across this little beast though... not very practical or cost efficient but i wasnt even aware they made a 32gb stick...it also appears that most of these higher capacity sticks are registered (server gear)
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8H53HE3983


That is exactly my point.


----------



## hurricane28

I ordered an G.Skill ripjawsx 16 GB 2 x 8 2400 MHz kit. Should arrive this week i hope.

I was planning to get the 32 GB kit but it costs over 200 and the 16 GB only 91 euro's. Since i already have 8 GB, i can just insert the 16 GB kit next to it in order to get 24 GB total. Hopefully they will play nice together


----------



## warpuck

I am quite sure a Sabertooth R 1.0 would make a fine M$ Small Office Server with registered ram, even if was limited to 32 Gb of registered ram. It does state the max installed RAM is 32 Gb.
Has the basic requirements, 2 LAN ports, raid (mirrored). One LAN goes to the internet modem, the other to the network box
I am not to sure about the ram speed of registered ram, but I think 1600 would fit in it, but would operate best at 1333. Servers are not built with speed as the priority, reliability is1st, speed next.
When your server is down you are out of business.
I do know it the initial cost would be about the same as a Supermicro or Asrock micro server system
The cheapest E3 xeon (quad core) is around $200 the motherboard (micro ATX) $110.
I like ATX because I got fat fingers.
Don't forget because you are going for reliable and long life, don't need a 1000 watt power supply and a 300 watt video card, CPU OCed to 5.0Ghz. 500 watt gold or platinum power supply would be overkill. For some reason smaller ones than 500 don't get that gold or platinum cert.. Don't need more than a $25 video card either.
A FX-8350 would do the job well at stock speed with the stock cooler. Would not recommend it, but if it has its own room who cares if it is loud.

BTW
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&IsNodeId=1&N=100007671%20600213781
I am used to seeing more AM3+ listed.
Hmm gettin close to the next Zen of AMD ?

I don't know about the kitty R 2.0 because I don't have one


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> I am quite sure a Sabertooth R 1.0 would make a fine M$ Small Office Server with registered ram, even if was limited to 32 Gb of registered ram. It does state the max installed RAM is 32 Gb.
> Has the basic requirements, 2 LAN ports, raid (mirrored). One LAN goes to the internet modem, the other to the network box
> I am not to sure about the ram speed of registered ram, but I think 1600 would fit in it, but would operate best at 1333. Servers are not built with speed as the priority, reliability is1st, speed next.
> When your server is down you are out of business.
> I do know it the initial cost would be about the same as a Supermicro or Asrock micro server system
> The cheapest E3 xeon (quad core) is around $200 the motherboard (micro ATX) $110.
> I like ATX because I got fat fingers.
> Don't forget because you are going for reliable and long life, don't need a 1000 watt power supply and a 300 watt video card, CPU OCed to 5.0Ghz. 500 watt gold or platinum power supply would be overkill. A FX-8350 would do the job well at stock speed with the stock cooler. Would not recommend it, but if it has its own room who cares if it is loud.
> 
> BTW
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&IsNodeId=1&N=100007671%20600213781
> I am used to seeing more AM3+ listed.
> Hmm gettin close to the next Zen of AMD ?
> 
> I don't know about the kitty R 2.0 because I don't have one


Might as well get 2133 or 1866 RAM 1333 is a huge limiter on the ram.. I can run 4 modules of 2400 on my 8350 so 2133 low latency would be best TBH
If you are talking about reliability then a 8370e might be best as well cut power and they have a better OC on lower voltage until they hit the voltage wall a 4.8-49GHz OC would do well in this range.


----------



## Xiltyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Other than that, I think maybe they got rid of the PS/2 port on the back? I'm not sure.


The PS/2 port is still there. I think the lack of in stock he's seeing has more to do with a limitation of how many Microcenter had in stock before the holiday shopping
season compared to the demand for the board. Every where you go it's THE suggested board now (talking about various forums and even the Microcenter by me when I
first talked with them about building this rig referred me to this board).

I agree though not to spend the inflated prices some are asking. Just wait a week or so and the reasonably priced outlets will have them back in stock.


----------



## warpuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Might as well get 2133 or 1866 RAM 1333 is a huge limiter on the ram.. I can run 4 modules of 2400 on my 8350 so 2133 low latency would be best TBH
> If you are talking about reliability then a 8370e might be best as well cut power and they have a better OC on lower voltage until they hit the voltage wall a 4.8-49GHz OC would do well in this range.


E3 Xeon run at 1Ghz up to 3.5Ghz. Servers most of the time are busy fetching and placing data in the networks shared hard drives (HDD or SSD). One of the biggest CPU loads is in maintaining the HDD index in a small business server. The next largest computation load is is from when the CPU is tasked to examine incoming packets. When a file is grabbed from the HDD it is transferred to memory and then out to the network when it is returned, then the cpu compares and writes the changes to the HDD. All this depends on the speed of the human finger. I believe the max seats on a M$ SBS is 25. Can't hold me to that, don't do networks anymore. Pretty much the most intensive CPU function is the firewall function in the SBS package. When the server function is stopped it is usually to take a picture of the state of the data at certain time. (backup)

Workstations are a different animal, not only do you move files, you change them. Workstations need reliability and GPU processing power too. Back in the old days a SGI workstation was often the server too. Simulations were run at night and during the day 1000 win 95 clients were active on the net, but not all at the same time and not both at the same time. The workstations make the changes, the server stores them
. Pretty much any AMD 8 core will do well as a small server for 8 workstations. Can a overclocked CPU do better? Yes, but still #1 is accuracy and reliability. Loosing 8 hours of crunch sucks if the workstation freezes. Worse than that is if the server freezes and the data gets corrupted. That is where the ECC and registered ram comes in.
Really if Mass Effect 3 freezes while online gaming because I am running at 5.2 Ghz, No problem. Aggravating but still, No Problem.
A request for data is pretty much a one thread task. That is why opteron and xeon boxes have 8,12 and 16 cores or more. Don't forget all this data has to move thru a single gigabyte LAN connection. A 16 core CPU is often paired with FDDI. I am sure that a 8350 can keep up with 1 giga byte per sec, even a SATA 3 HDD can deal with that. A fiber network with a fiber drive? Not so much.
If you are going to play Mine Craft with the server, might want to add GPU power because a servers really don't need much GPU function.

Then again a 5.7 L Hemi in Fiat 500 would be interesting too. Just what you need for a Woodward Ave Dream Cruiser.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Might as well get 2133 or 1866 RAM 1333 is a huge limiter on the ram.. I can run 4 modules of 2400 on my 8350 so 2133 low latency would be best TBH
> If you are talking about reliability then a 8370e might be best as well cut power and they have a better OC on lower voltage until they hit the voltage wall a 4.8-49GHz OC would do well in this range.
> 
> 
> 
> E3 Xeon run at 1Ghz up to 3.5Ghz. Servers most of the time are busy fetching and placing data in the networks shared hard drives (HDD or SSD). One of the biggest CPU loads is in maintaining the HDD index in a small business server. The next largest computation load is is from when the CPU is tasked to examine incoming packets. When a file is grabbed from the HDD it is transferred to memory and then out to the network when it is returned, then the cpu compares and writes the changes to the HDD. All this depends on the speed of the human finger. I believe the max seats on a M$ SBS is 25. Can't hold me to that, don't do networks anymore. Pretty much the most intensive CPU function is the firewall function in the SBS package. When the server function is stopped it is usually to take a picture of the state of the data at certain time. (backup)
> 
> Workstations are a different animal, not only do you move files, you change them. Workstations need reliability and GPU processing power too. Back in the old days a SGI workstation was often the server too. Simulations were run at night and during the day 1000 win 95 clients were active on the net, but not all at the same time and not both at the same time. The workstations make the changes, the server stores them
> . Pretty much any AMD 8 core will do well as a small server for 8 workstations. Can a overclocked CPU do better? Yes, but still #1 is accuracy and reliability. Loosing 8 hours of crunch sucks if the workstation freezes. Worse than that is if the server freezes and the data gets corrupted. That is where the ECC and registered ram comes in.
> Really if Mass Effect 3 freezes while online gaming because I am running at 5.2 Ghz, No problem. Aggravating but still, No Problem.
> A request for data is pretty much a one thread task. That is why opteron and xeon boxes have 8,12 and 16 cores or more. Don't forget all this data has to move thru a single gigabyte LAN connection. A 16 core CPU is often paired with FDDI. I am sure that a 8350 can keep up with 1 giga byte per sec, even a SATA 3 HDD can deal with that. A fiber network with a fiber drive? Not so much.
> If you are going to play Mine Craft with the server, might want to add GPU power because a servers really don't need much GPU function.
> 
> Then again a 5.7 L Hemi in Fiat 500 would be interesting too. Just what you need for a Woodward Ave Dream Cruiser.
Click to expand...

I am quite confused about your response.. I was just adding to the hypothetical that you had created..

For the overclocking.. If done correctly you wont have that freeze or crunch.. which is the point of stressing it with IBT AVX, P95, and OCCT to ensure that the stresses do not create the errors.. the higher RAM will work as well especially if you go with the ECC (2400 starts pushing the limits and gets harder)

however I just added to your rate.. and optimized the idea a little moreso


----------



## warpuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> I am quite confused about your response.. I was just adding to the hypothetical that you had created..
> 
> For the overclocking.. If done correctly you wont have that freeze or crunch.. which is the point of stressing it with IBT AVX, P95, and OCCT to ensure that the stresses do not create the errors.. the higher RAM will work as well especially if you go with the ECC (2400 starts pushing the limits and gets harder)
> 
> however I just added to your rate.. and optimized the idea a little moreso


Don't know if you plan on selling or installing network systems or OSs. I do know customers get pissed if they have to call you back fix it. Even if it is something they did. If you stick with stock speeds, their lawyer has a harder job. Never did it to or for customer (overclock) but for my own, you betcha.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> I am quite confused about your response.. I was just adding to the hypothetical that you had created..
> 
> For the overclocking.. If done correctly you wont have that freeze or crunch.. which is the point of stressing it with IBT AVX, P95, and OCCT to ensure that the stresses do not create the errors.. the higher RAM will work as well especially if you go with the ECC (2400 starts pushing the limits and gets harder)
> 
> however I just added to your rate.. and optimized the idea a little moreso
> 
> 
> 
> Don't know if you plan on selling or installing network systems or OSs. I do know customers get pissed if they have to call you back fix it. Even if it is something they did. If you stick with stock speeds, their lawyer has a harder job. Never did it to or for customer (overclock) but for my own, you betcha.
Click to expand...

If you are talking selling yeah that leads to a different type of deal.. a 8370 would be best in that case..

and for prices.. FX series have been stagnant for some time.. prices haven't been reduced for almost 6 months


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAVC*
> 
> I am getting concerned regarding Rev. 2.0 boards...they have vanished in 1 day from my local Microcenter and they even had a few open box items when I checked their website Sunday. Today, nothing is in stock. Has Asus pulled these from production already? I am also seeing unscrupulous re-sellers asking $400 for these as of today. Similar examples from individuals on ebay and CL. Is Rev 2.o far better than 1.0? I may need to restrict my attention to the used market to find an affordable one if this trend continues. I have interest only in the FX-8000 series, I can leave the 9000- series completely alone.


MC is always a poor choce to look for selection, it is possible they are going EOL, but i dont think they are yet -
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> There is no trickery. The memory set is 8 sticks x 8gb. I see nothing stating you can/have to use all 8 sticks. It is a qvl not a can use list. It seems as people are trying to "make a storm in a cup" and yet the same people ignore serious issues about other products while this issue which is minor and not that difficult to understand.
> 
> 
> 
> I have the idea that you don't even understand what i am trying to say most of the time but just want to argue and want to be right all the time..
> 
> QVL means that its compatible with this motherboard, my question is to why people want to buy such an expensive kit and only use half of it instead of buying an 32 Gb kit in the first place.. it doesn't make any sense to me.
> 
> and what do you mean by this: " It seems as people are trying to "make a storm in a cup" and yet the same people ignore serious issues about other products while this issue which is minor and not that difficult to understand."
> 
> I am sorry but sometimes i have difficulty reading and understanding your posts, and it seems i am not the only one.
Click to expand...

huh? ok, ill do a small timeline using your quote/question and now answering with your quote that shows i answered your question and taught you


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



it started with this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Happy new year Sabertooth buddy's.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Riddle me this, i was looking in the User manual in the memory compatibility page and i saw that this kit was compatible: http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-17000cl11q2-64gbzld
> 
> 
> 
> How is it possible to fit 64 GB 8 sticks kit in to an motherboard with only 4 ram slots? lol, assume its an typo or something?


without me posting that turned into this question/post
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You didn't know each of the slot can fit 2 dimms at once?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, means that if you take any 4 sticks from that kit and insert them into the kitty, they will work properly according to their profile.
> 
> No brainstorming needed to figure that out.
> 
> Which is a logic I really did not expect from you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I am willing to bet, the kit is listed in the 32GB Capacity in the QVL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol, why would someone buy an 64 GB ram kit while the motherboard can only support 32 GB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no its listed in the QVL as 64 GB, why do you think i bring this up in the first place.. here is the proof:
Click to expand...

to which i answered this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> it even states 8 x 8....voodoo trickery involved there....maybe they used their motherboard stretcher...
> 
> 
> 
> yeah, i thought it was me but i looked and looked but i couldn't see any more than 4 dimm slots so i was wondering how the heck they could place 8 x 8 kit in the QVL list that only supports 32 GB on 4 slots lol
> 
> Maybe you can check your manual too, perhaps its in there, it would also be nice to know if this is an typo or an structural thing.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is no trickery. The memory *set* is 8 sticks x 8gb. I see nothing stating you can/have to use all 8 sticks. It is a qvl not a can use list. It seems as people are trying to "make a storm in a cup" and yet the same people ignore serious issues about other products while this issue which is minor and not that difficult to understand.
Click to expand...

to which you answered this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> There is no trickery. The memory set is 8 sticks x 8gb. I see nothing stating you can/have to use all 8 sticks. It is a qvl not a can use list. It seems as people are trying to "make a storm in a cup" and yet the same people ignore serious issues about other products while this issue which is minor and not that difficult to understand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the idea that you don't even understand what i am trying to say most of the time but just want to argue and want to be right all the time..
> 
> QVL means that its compatible with this motherboard, my question is to why people want to buy such an expensive kit and only use half of it instead of buying an 32 Gb kit in the first place.. it doesn't make any sense to me.
> 
> and what do you mean by this: " It seems as people are trying to "make a storm in a cup" and yet the same people ignore serious issues about other products while this issue which is minor and not that difficult to understand."
> 
> _I am sorry but sometimes i have difficulty reading and understanding your posts, and it seems i am not the only one_.
Click to expand...

look, the underlined means you GET IT ! and it was part of my answer ~ "QVL means that its compatible with this motherboard"

i answered your question,

i am ok if you dont always understand me, i understand english is not your native language ! you can ask me " what do you mean" instead you CONSISTENTLY and CONTINUALLY assume i insult you and "have to be right" and you ACCUSE me several times

as to what i ment about the storm- i ment what i ment, if you dont understand what i mean, _*why did you use it ( that exact phrase )*_ when i brought up the "4gb" issue / rop issue ( by issue i mean the false advertising ) on the 970, you used it, not me so if you dont understand what i mean, i can not help you ( if you want i can locate the quote )


now to answer your new question

"My question is to why people want to buy such an expensive kit and only use half of it instead of buying an 32 Gb kit in the first place.. "

who said you have to buy it? what if it is laying around from another build ?

the qvl is a qvl, it does not tell you if a choice is wise financially, or logically, it just tells you it will work with the motherboard, one GREAT thing about asus is they not only extensively test these things with a LARGE amount of stuff, but after releasing they CONTINUALLY test them.

several brands dont, and you dont know if it will work, so to that i say THANK YOU ASUS you ROCK !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> I am quite sure a Sabertooth R 1.0 would make a fine M$ Small Office Server with registered ram, even if was limited to 32 Gb of registered ram. It does state the max installed RAM is 32 Gb.
> Has the basic requirements, 2 LAN ports, raid (mirrored). One LAN goes to the internet modem, the other to the network box
> I am not to sure about the ram speed of registered ram, but I think 1600 would fit in it, but would operate best at 1333. Servers are not built with speed as the priority, reliability is1st, speed next.
> When your server is down you are out of business.
> I do know it the initial cost would be about the same as a Supermicro or Asrock micro server system
> The cheapest E3 xeon (quad core) is around $200 the motherboard (micro ATX) $110.
> I like ATX because I got fat fingers.
> Don't forget because you are going for reliable and long life, don't need a 1000 watt power supply and a 300 watt video card, CPU OCed to 5.0Ghz. 500 watt gold or platinum power supply would be overkill. For some reason smaller ones than 500 don't get that gold or platinum cert.. Don't need more than a $25 video card either.
> A FX-8350 would do the job well at stock speed with the stock cooler. Would not recommend it, but if it has its own room who cares if it is loud.
> 
> BTW
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&IsNodeId=1&N=100007671%20600213781
> I am used to seeing more AM3+ listed.
> Hmm gettin close to the next Zen of AMD ?
> 
> I don't know about the kitty R 2.0 because I don't have one


just to point out there is only 1 lan on board you would need a second nic


----------



## warpuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> MC is always a poor choce to look for selection, it is possible they are going EOL, but i dont think they are yet -
> 
> huh? ok, ill do a small timeline using your quote/question and now answering with your quote that shows i answered your question and taught you
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> it started with this
> without me posting that turned into this question/post
> to which i answered this
> to which you answered this
> look, the underlined means you GET IT ! and it was part of my answer ~ "QVL means that its compatible with this motherboard"
> 
> i answered your question,
> 
> i am ok if you dont always understand me, i understand english is not your native language ! you can ask me " what do you mean" instead you CONSISTENTLY and CONTINUALLY assume i insult you and "have to be right" and you ACCUSE me several times
> 
> as to what i ment about the storm- i ment what i ment, if you dont understand what i mean, _*why did you use it ( that exact phrase )*_ when i brought up the "4gb" issue / rop issue ( by issue i mean the false advertising ) on the 970, you used it, not me so if you dont understand what i mean, i can not help you ( if you want i can locate the quote )
> 
> 
> now to answer your new question
> 
> "My question is to why people want to buy such an expensive kit and only use half of it instead of buying an 32 Gb kit in the first place.. "
> 
> who said you have to buy it? what if it is laying around from another build ?
> 
> the qvl is a qvl, it does not tell you if a choice is wise financially, or logically, it just tells you it will work with the motherboard, one GREAT thing about asus is they not only extensively test these things with a LARGE amount of stuff, but after releasing they CONTINUALLY test them.
> 
> several brands dont, and you dont know if it will work, so to that i say THANK YOU ASUS you ROCK !
> just to point out there is only 1 lan on board you would need a second nic


Made me look, lol
You are right, the the kitty has one and the MSI 890fx gd70 has 2, why I don't know and 4 pci-e slots too. I had 4 6750s in it once, lol But the kitty had lot of slots too, but only used 1 with a 7870 later on a GTX 690 for game play, Add a second LAN connection card ? no problem. When the kitty died I put the 8350 in the MSI board and bought a 9590 and a extreme9. The 8350 was only good for 4.6 and change on water anyway.
285s do rather well in crossfire and the 9590 can handle the game demands.

As for adding too much memory I did it too. I don't notice any difference between 2 sticks of 2400 and 4 sticks. Oh might need it for Win 11? 8 Gb still gets the job done. I did notice one app that used 12Gb of ram. AVG, when it checks the SSD drive. So maybe I will put the other 2 back in.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> MC is always a poor choce to look for selection, it is possible they are going EOL, but i dont think they are yet -
> huh? ok, ill do a small timeline using your quote/question and now answering with your quote that shows i answered your question and taught you
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> it started with this
> without me posting that turned into this question/post
> to which i answered this
> to which you answered this
> look, the underlined means you GET IT ! and it was part of my answer ~ "QVL means that its compatible with this motherboard"
> 
> i answered your question,
> 
> i am ok if you dont always understand me, i understand english is not your native language ! you can ask me " what do you mean" instead you CONSISTENTLY and CONTINUALLY assume i insult you and "have to be right" and you ACCUSE me several times
> 
> as to what i ment about the storm- i ment what i ment, if you dont understand what i mean, _*why did you use it ( that exact phrase )*_ when i brought up the "4gb" issue / rop issue ( by issue i mean the false advertising ) on the 970, you used it, not me so if you dont understand what i mean, i can not help you ( if you want i can locate the quote )
> 
> 
> now to answer your new question
> 
> "My question is to why people want to buy such an expensive kit and only use half of it instead of buying an 32 Gb kit in the first place.. "
> 
> who said you have to buy it? what if it is laying around from another build ?
> 
> the qvl is a qvl, it does not tell you if a choice is wise financially, or logically, it just tells you it will work with the motherboard, one GREAT thing about asus is they not only extensively test these things with a LARGE amount of stuff, but after releasing they CONTINUALLY test them.
> 
> several brands dont, and you dont know if it will work, so to that i say THANK YOU ASUS you ROCK !
> just to point out there is only 1 lan on board you would need a second nic


Okay i understand it now you clarify it more clearly about the QVL. You must know that English is indeed not my native language but i can understand other people perfectly well, as a matter a fact, i have lots of family living in the states and i am in contact with them and can understand them perfectly well. You language can be offensive sometimes but i guess you don't mean it that way. Its also very difficult by reading what people actually mean sometimes because its very impersonal if you know what i mean. I will try to read your posts better and take your language with an gran of salt in the future.

I ordered this kit and it should arrive today: http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-2400c11d-16gxm

Hopefully it will cause no compatibility issues with my other ram or the board, vingers crossed


----------



## miklkit

Just wondering how close the Sabertooth is to EOL. I got caught out waiting for another board to go on sale and instead it went EOL. Should I wait for a sale or pay full price?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Just wondering how close the Sabertooth is to EOL. I got caught out waiting for another board to go on sale and instead it went EOL. Should I wait for a sale or pay full price?


Well my 5 year warranty ends this month on my Sabertooth r2.0 and with Zen around the corner.. Id say within the year of AM4 coming out


----------



## miklkit

Well, we are there already if the reports of Q4 2016 are correct. I heard a rumor somewhere that suddenly they are getting hard to find and don't know if that is because it is right after Christmas or........


----------



## deeph

Hi,

I have a Dom Platinum memory 2400 installed on this motherboard. But after I checked it only run at 1333. Also checked that those memories not in QVL list. My question is, how to run at 2400? Any manual setting should be applied?
I'm running, FX9590 processor.

deeph


----------



## Mega Man

generally above 1333/1600 no ram will run at full speed without setting speeds manually,

you need to set voltage, ram speed, and the first few timings by hand in bios


----------



## mus1mus

DOCP + Manual Timings + Voltage


----------



## Jflisk

Mega or Mus1mus either on of you running the 9590 . I know both of you have been around the block but the FX9590 and OC ram is a witch no matter how you look at it. Not saying 2400 is unachievable. But the 9590 changes the game because of the voltage required to run it and if the voltages and timings are not right on the ram/cpu oh boy (Lock up city). I have to change my signature but I have 1866 with 32 Gb(4 X 8) running . With the Asus sabertooth / FX9590 and 1500 W power supply .


----------



## mus1mus

What exactly do you mean?


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Mega or Mus1mus either on of you running the 9590 . I know both of you have been around the block but the FX9590 and OC ram is a witch no matter how you look at it. Not saying 2400 is unachievable. But the 9590 changes the game because of the voltage required to run it and if the voltages and timings are not right on the ram/cpu oh boy (Lock up city). I have to change my signature but I have 1866 with 32 Gb(4 X 8) running . With the Asus sabertooth / FX9590 and 1500 W power supply .


I have 2x 9590's and both are running 2x8GB of 2400Mhz Ram.


----------



## mus1mus

me no idea what I am talking about.











Yep, not 2400. But these are 1600 C10 sticks.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> me no idea what I am talking about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, not 2400. But these are 1600 C10 sticks.


If i had another 2x8 2400 kit I'd give that a go but sadly i don't


----------



## mus1mus

Do you have a week to spare though?









This thing is slow.









In a nutshell, I can get into Windows on 2400. Which surprised me. Even the mighty 4790K can't.









Is this board on Beast Mode? Look at the Vcore. It's on High LLC, No LN2 Mode. And at 1.4 in the BIOS.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> I have 2x 9590's and both are running 2x8GB of 2400Mhz Ram.


Sgt Bilko - Thanks for the answer - People have been asking about the FX9590 and ram running at 2400 .


----------



## hurricane28

Look what i got in the mail today











Sadly it doesn't play well with my other 8 Gb kit as expected so i only have 16 GB now instead of the 24 GB if i could use the other kit.

Now i have another problem, i installed the new RAM and all of a sudden Google Chrome doesn't work properly anymore even when i installed the older kit.

I deinstalled chrome and reinstalled it but that didn't solve my problem. Any ideas fellas?


----------



## Mega Man

Sure. Switch to firefox because it's better


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Sure. Switch to firefox because it's better


In like the snappyness of chrome but on the other hand I had lots of problems with chrome.
I switched to Firefox and got an crash as well. I am running memtest now and let it run for the night just to make sure it's not the new memory that is faulty.

Just too bad it's not compatible with my other ram kit. Will try again tomorrow.
I hope 16 gb is enough to work in premiere pro and after effects..


----------



## Mega Man

You may need to increase cpu/nb and maybe nb, in rare cases more vcore. You may not be stable. 8gb sticks are harder to push then 4gb sticks


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You may need to increase cpu/nb and maybe nb, in rare cases more vcore. You may not be stable. 8gb sticks are harder to push then 4gb sticks


I know, I am already running 2600 MHz CPU/nb added a bit more vcore and CPU/nb voltage. I let memtest run for the night and try again tomorrow, it's getting late here.
Thnx for the reply.

Btw, did 10 runs of ibt avx on the highest setting and was stable. Curious if memtest will find any errors. Report back tomorrow.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I know, I am already running 2600 MHz CPU/nb added a bit more vcore and CPU/nb voltage. I let memtest run for the night and try again tomorrow, it's getting late here.
> Thnx for the reply.
> 
> Btw, did 10 runs of ibt avx on the highest setting and was stable. Curious if memtest will find any errors. Report back tomorrow.


10 runs is a good start














seriously though hci memtest with 16 windows would give you the results a bit faster but if you are sleeping anyway doesnt really matter


----------



## mus1mus

IBT + Blend + HCI Memtest to a 1000%

You can skip Blend. Just preference.


----------



## hurricane28

No errors in memtest. I let it run overnight and 10 hours+ so if there were any issues it would be shown up by now.

The rest of the system is quite stable as well with reasonable temps, IBT AVX at maximum max temp i seen was around 55c core and socket was little lower. 1.488 vcore and 1.35v CPU/NB. The rad of my H100i really like those Noctua fans and the 2 80mm fans which i strapped to my vrm heat sink really make an huge difference in temps.

After some research on the net it seems that lots of people have problems with Google Chrome and Windows 10 builds so its definitely Chrome that is causing this issue. Strange that this started after i installed my new ram tho.

I really like the snappiness of chrome and the user experience but i guess i have to deal with Firefox until there is a fix for Chrome.


----------



## hurricane28

How is this Aida score?:



Seems like a good score to me.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You may need to increase cpu/nb and maybe nb, in rare cases more vcore. You may not be stable. 8gb sticks are harder to push then 4gb sticks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Sure. Switch to firefox because it's better


Good grief I hate chrome lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> How is this Aida score?:
> 
> 
> 
> Seems like a good score to me.


About where it should be.


----------



## mus1mus

No CR1?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Good grief I hate chrome lol
> About where it should be.


I dislike chrome now as well.. i run Firefox now without any issues. I changed from Firefox to chrome because Firefox had some problems but it seems they kinda sort it out.

It feels very snappy in windows as well, i thought that with these timings i should feel an loss in snappiness but its performing quite well. Too bad i couldn't get it stable with my other kit but heck, i can sell that one and get 50 euro's for it so this kit would only cost me 45 euro's


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> No CR1?


Don't know, will try if i can get it stable and perhaps some lower timings as well.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> No CR1?
> 
> 
> 
> Don't know, will try if i can get it stable and perhaps some lower timings as well.
Click to expand...

It's hard to get 1T on those at those speeds/timings. Good luck







It would probably get you close to 28000 writes and gain about .5 in latency if you could though.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> It's hard to get 1T on those at those speeds/timings. Good luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would probably get you close to 28000 writes and gain about .5 in latency if you could though.


Yeah i noticed that lol

Can't get it to CR1 and it doesn't like tightener timings at all, anything other than stock and i need to push the mem OK button unfortunately.
I cant even get it to CR1, when i set it in BIOS and save and reboot, Aida64 keeps saying its at CR2.

such an huge difference compared to my 1866 kit, i could get that kit 2400 MHz stable at CR1 with 11-11-11-31 timings no problem, i could even get it to 2500 but that is about the max.

I think it has to do with the 8 GB dims or its too hard on the CPU or this kit is just not that good at overclocking.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yeah i noticed that lol
> 
> Can't get it to CR1 and it doesn't like tightener timings at all, anything other than stock and i need to push the mem OK button unfortunately.
> I cant even get it to CR1, when i set it in BIOS and save and reboot, Aida64 keeps saying its at CR2.
> 
> such an huge difference compared to my 1866 kit, i could get that kit 2400 MHz stable at CR1 with 11-11-11-31 timings no problem, i could even get it to 2500 but that is about the max.
> 
> I think it has to do with the 8 GB dims or its too hard on the CPU or this kit is just not that good at overclocking.


How much voltage did you pump into the ram to get them stable at those speeds and timings? Mine don't like 11-11-11-31 at all.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> How much voltage did you pump into the ram to get them stable at those speeds and timings? Mine don't like 11-11-11-31 at all.


What set of ram do you have? Stock its 1.5 Volt and at 2400 MHz i set it to 1.65.

Its a very good set of ram, the new ones doesn't like anything other than stock unfortunately.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> What set of ram do you have? Stock its 1.5 Volt and at 2400 MHz i set it to 1.65.
> 
> Its a very good set of ram, the new ones doesn't like anything other than stock unfortunately.


I'm running the ones in my rigbuilder thingy, Hyperx Savage 2400


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I'm running the ones in my rigbuilder thingy, Hyperx Savage 2400


Okay, I went to the G.Skill site and looked for 2400 MHz ram with the tightest timings. I copied the settings and miraculously it worked. Perhaps you can do the same if that doesn't work try look for the same set only with higher timings.

Good luck.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Okay, I went to the G.Skill site and looked for 2400 MHz ram with the tightest timings. I copied the settings and miraculously it worked. Perhaps you can do the same if that doesn't work try look for the same set only with higher timings.
> 
> Good luck.


Will higher voltage on the ram help timings? or is it purely just speed?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Will higher voltage on the ram help timings? or is it purely just speed?


It helps overall i guess, its ram voltage so it should stabilize everything related to ram. You can also try different ram settings in Digi power control in the bios.

These are my settings:


----------



## miklkit

Just got my Sabertooth in and will be installing it later today. It has been so long I have forgotten everything you guys taught me in 2014. Looking at these settings with interest too.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Just got my Sabertooth in and will be installing it later today. It has been so long I have forgotten everything you guys taught me in 2014. Looking at these settings with interest too.


Good luck, YOU CAN DO EEEET!!!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Just got my Sabertooth in and will be installing it later today. It has been so long I have forgotten everything you guys taught me in 2014. Looking at these settings with interest too.


If you want i have more BIOS screenshots for ya









Good luck.


----------



## miklkit

LOL! Of course. Been there, done that. And this board looks better than the other two also. They were warped right out of the box. I RMAd the first one immediately it was so bad and took a chance with the 2nd one. It had overheating issues that may or may not have been made worse by the warping. Time will tell.

EDIT: The only bios shots I have are for my 5 ghz setup so it looks like I will be going straight there after running it at pure dog stock to make a base line. Your input will be welcome.


----------



## hurricane28

Ugh, after RAM issues i now have Corsair link issues again.. what a ****ty program man, i did the registry tweak and all was well after that and now all of a sudden the link software doesn't recognize my fans and pump... I called Corsair and in order to get a new unit i have to send this one first which is not an option because i use my system for my work as well, or i have to give them a credit card number so if i don't return this cooler i have to pay for it.. That sounds like an motion of distrust to me.. so much for the "excellent Corsair service"

I really need to save some money in order to buy an proper cooling product that actually works longer than a year..


----------



## miklkit

So I made the transplant. The MSI GD80 is on the shelf now and the Sabertooth is up and running. While it was all apart I took it outside and gave it a thorough beating with the DataVac. Big cloud of dust............









Fired it up and the first screen wanted me to go to the bios to set it up. I noticed that 1 of the 4 ram sticks wasn't being recognized so shut it down, pulled the ram, and gave the ram slots and sticks a thorough beating with the Datavac.

Put it back together and fired it up.

The thing went straight to winX this time and took about 5 minutes figuring out what just happened.









So what we have here is a straight out of the box installation that seems to be working just fine. All ram is recognized and the cpu seems happy, idling at 1.4 and turboing up to 4.3. Max temp so far is 29C. The only thing that needed touching was the x-fi as it had to be told to start working.

This is too easy.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> No errors in memtest. I let it run overnight and 10 hours+ so if there were any issues it would be shown up by now.
> 
> The rest of the system is quite stable as well with reasonable temps, IBT AVX at maximum max temp i seen was around 55c core and socket was little lower. 1.488 vcore and 1.35v CPU/NB. The rad of my H100i really like those Noctua fans and the 2 80mm fans which i strapped to my vrm heat sink really make an huge difference in temps.
> 
> After some research on the net it seems that lots of people have problems with Google Chrome and Windows 10 builds so its definitely Chrome that is causing this issue. Strange that this started after i installed my new ram tho.
> 
> I really like the snappiness of chrome and the user experience but i guess i have to deal with Firefox until there is a fix for Chrome.


I had the exact problems with Chrome a week ago. Its seems the the culpit was a corrupted folder of Chrome on my user local profile. A chkdsk and reboot solved the problem. I also detele all trace of Chrome and proceed to a reinstall of it,

I did the same steps that you did on my fresh month install of windows 10 and on my newly purchased 850 Evo SSD but hopefully notice the error not occurring on another local windows profile that I have for my gf.


----------



## Benjiw

I really want to upgrade to windows 10 but with all the trouble people are having I might give it a miss lol.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> I had the exact problems with Chrome a week ago. Its seems the the culpit was a corrupted folder of Chrome on my user local profile. A chkdsk and reboot solved the problem. I also detele all trace of Chrome and proceed to a reinstall of it,
> 
> I did the same steps that you did on my fresh month install of windows 10 and on my newly purchased 850 Evo SSD but hopefully notice the error not occurring on another local windows profile that I have for my gf.


Its not only Google Chrome that gave me problems, Firefox can be tricky as well and that was the main reason i went to Chrome. Now Chrome is giving problems i might give Firefox a try again lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> I had the exact problems with Chrome a week ago. Its seems the the culpit was a corrupted folder of Chrome on my user local profile. A chkdsk and reboot solved the problem. I also detele all trace of Chrome and proceed to a reinstall of it,
> 
> I did the same steps that you did on my fresh month install of windows 10 and on my newly purchased 850 Evo SSD but hopefully notice the error not occurring on another local windows profile that I have for my gf.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I really want to upgrade to windows 10 but with all the trouble people are having I might give it a miss lol.


I made an clone of my 8.1 system on my other drive so if Windows 10 give me lots of problems and i can't solve it i just revert to 8.1 that worked flawlessly for me.
I like the interface of Windows 10 a lot but you have to do a lot of tweaks in order to make it work correctly and fast. You also need to install anti spy software etc.

After all of that, its working nicely so far. Just make sure you have the latest build and you are okay.


----------



## miklkit

I like win7, hate win8.1, and like winX after tweaks. Back when I was running winXP the tweaks suggested by Black Viper worked great. Now the tweaks suggested by Black Viper work great for winX.


----------



## hurricane28

Yess, i finally managed to get my 2 ram kits work together









It wouldn't run at 2400 MHz but at 1866 MHz at 8-9-9-28 CR1 its working perfectly so far. Hopefully it stays this way. I guess the problem was that my cl 8 kit can run at CR1 and my cl 11 kit simply doesn't like that at all. Also set CPU voltage and ram voltage a tad higher and it works like a charm as for now.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yess, i finally managed to get my 2 ram kits work together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It wouldn't run at 2400 MHz but at 1866 MHz at 8-9-9-28 CR1 its working perfectly so far. Hopefully it stays this way. I guess the problem was that my cl 8 kit can run at CR1 and my cl 11 kit simply doesn't like that at all. Also set CPU voltage and ram voltage a tad higher and it works like a charm as for now.


my 2133 cl9 ripjaws kit wont run cr1 or latency under 300ms...luck of the draw I guess


----------



## umeng2002

So I put my mouse and keyboard on the USB3.0 ports to bypass the South Bridge since the ASmedia controller interfaces directly with the PCIe bus, and IDK, my mouse feels smoother.

Maybe just placebo...


----------



## hurricane28

Well that went south real fast lol

I had both ram kits installed and it was working fine until i got blue screen of death all of a sudden.. tried to reboot but the damage was done.

Apparently if you have mismatched ram you can corrupt windows really bad beyond repair. Every time when i tried to boot it said that i couldn't boot and was booting in to repair section. Than when i attempt to do an repair it said that my hard drive was defective on tried to repair it without luck..

Than i came with the idea to restore from an older restore point and finally that worked, phew..

I learned yet again the hard way that messing with PC components really can mess up things.

I am going to make an system image on my other drive so if things go bad again i can restore from that one without loosing all my data.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Well that went south real fast lol
> 
> I had both ram kits installed and it was working fine until i got blue screen of death all of a sudden.. tried to reboot but the damage was done.
> 
> Apparently if you have mismatched ram you can corrupt windows really bad beyond repair. Every time when i tried to boot it said that i couldn't boot and was booting in to repair section. Than when i attempt to do an repair it said that my hard drive was defective on tried to repair it without luck..
> 
> Than i came with the idea to restore from an older restore point and finally that worked, phew..
> 
> I learned yet again the hard way that messing with PC components really can mess up things.
> 
> I am going to make an system image on my other drive so if things go bad again i can restore from that one without loosing all my data.


usually that happens when something critical is loaded into memory and there's a problem with something writing to that same area without being swapped out...or there's some other problem...in your case the mismatched ram....ime a large percentage of the blue screens are memory related since irq conflicts are all but a distant memory...sometimes it's a memory leak that exceeds memory capacity...sometimes it's something trying to push into memory where a critical process is loaded...sometimes it's bad ram overclock...I can only think of maybe 20 blue screens I've had that weren't caused by memory issue of some kind...I thought blue screen errors were a thing of the past with Windows 7 but I experienced a few trying to install amd chipset drivers and not install cayalyst while running an nvidia card...thankfully windows recovers from issues so much better these days...I've had to do maybe 3 repair since Windows 7....Windows xp...I'm being I've done 200 with it over the years


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> usually that happens when something critical is loaded into memory and there's a problem with something writing to that same area without being swapped out...or there's some other problem...in your case the mismatched ram....ime a large percentage of the blue screens are memory related since irq conflicts are all but a distant memory...sometimes it's a memory leak that exceeds memory capacity...sometimes it's something trying to push into memory where a critical process is loaded...sometimes it's bad ram overclock...I can only think of maybe 20 blue screens I've had that weren't caused by memory issue of some kind...I thought blue screen errors were a thing of the past with Windows 7 but I experienced a few trying to install amd chipset drivers and not install cayalyst while running an nvidia card...thankfully windows recovers from issues so much better these days...I've had to do maybe 3 repair since Windows 7....Windows xp...I'm being I've done 200 with it over the years


Yep, you are absolutely correct.

In my case it was the mismatched ram but fast boot can also create problems i discovered that's why i disabled this feature in Windows and BIOS. Boot times seems not to be affected that much when you run SSD.

From now on i am gonna create restore points every week or when i temper with Windows especially when i am running W 10. I can also do an copy of the system image and copy it to my other internal drive, that's even better.










I saw that i can buy the Gigabyte 990 FX gaming G1 motherboard for only 150, i am so tempted to buy that one because of its features, i hope i can behave myself


----------



## zubzero689

finished my loop love the board


----------



## Nocturnal91

Had my system about a year and a half now and started finally modding it now just some time to overclock and do some tweaks


----------



## miklkit

I recently installed a Sabertooth and have an odd situation on startup. I hit the power button and a screen comes up saying windows failed to start because a device is missing. So I hit "enter" and windows loads. In the bios (2501) the correct hard drive is shown first with a eufi ribbon on it. Is there some way to get it working without that first screen?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I recently installed a Sabertooth and have an odd situation on startup. I hit the power button and a screen comes up saying windows failed to start because a device is missing. So I hit "enter" and windows loads. In the bios (2501) the correct hard drive is shown first with a eufi ribbon on it. Is there some way to get it working without that first screen?


This is on win 10?


----------



## miklkit

Yes. Fast boot is disabled.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Yes. Fast boot is disabled.


this was a Win 10 installation from the old board right? have you gone in and made sure all of the drivers are correct and updated to the sabertooth?


----------



## miklkit

Yes. It took a phone call to macroshaft to get winX activated again and it installed all the device drivers itself. I also have IoBit driver booster and it says all drivers are up to date. Also device manager shows all is well.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Yes. It took a phone call to macroshaft to get winX activated again and it installed all the device drivers itself. I also have IoBit driver booster and it says all drivers are up to date. Also device manager shows all is well.


Word of advice.. download and install the drivers from ASUS and make sure that the sata contrller is the AMD one and not the generic MS one.. Although MS has gotten a lot better there are several nuances that I have found in Win 10 and driver assigning. IObit will say that the drivers are up to date for the MS ones as it does not check for other retailers only if there is an update for that one retailer that the driver is already assigned to. I know this because I also use IObit: Heck im kinda sad that IObit sold gamebooster to Razer which trashed the program IMO

Switching manufacturers of boards with the same windows installation you have to make sure you do this or you get weird errors like you are seeing. Best bet is check in Device manager after you have installed the updated drivers from ASUS https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R20/HelpDesk_Download/


----------



## miklkit

I went there and got the sata drivers. Now there are 2 Asmedia drivers and 1 Microsoft driver. I have been searching for AMD sata drivers and all I have found is sites wanting me to buy their installers. I really don't need it at the moment as I'm using mechanical hard drives but a SSD would be nice to have.

The GD80 typically booted in 40-50 seconds with its record being 28 seconds. This SBT takes 2-3 minutes.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I went there and got the sata drivers. Now there are 2 Asmedia drivers and 1 Microsoft driver. I have been searching for AMD sata drivers and all I have found is sites wanting me to buy their installers. I really don't need it at the moment as I'm using mechanical hard drives but a SSD would be nice to have.
> 
> The GD80 typically booted in 40-50 seconds with its record being 28 seconds. This SBT takes 2-3 minutes.


http://support.amd.com/en-us/download/chipset?os=Windows%2010%20-%2064

For further referance its AMD chipset driver that you are wanting.. just search up the chipset directly from AMD.. and this will/can make a difference.. Also check msconfig to see if you have anything loading at startup that you may not need/want. like bloatware from the old motherboard etc etc


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I went there and got the sata drivers. Now there are 2 Asmedia drivers and 1 Microsoft driver. I have been searching for AMD sata drivers and all I have found is sites wanting me to buy their installers. I really don't need it at the moment as I'm using mechanical hard drives but a SSD would be nice to have.
> 
> The GD80 typically booted in 40-50 seconds with its record being 28 seconds. This SBT takes 2-3 minutes.


Do you have any storage devices connected to your USB?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I went there and got the sata drivers. Now there are 2 Asmedia drivers and 1 Microsoft driver. I have been searching for AMD sata drivers and all I have found is sites wanting me to buy their installers. I really don't need it at the moment as I'm using mechanical hard drives but a SSD would be nice to have.
> 
> The GD80 typically booted in 40-50 seconds with its record being 28 seconds. This SBT takes 2-3 minutes.


Wait... You don't have an SSD?... Not even a 120gb boot drive? DOOOOOOOOOOOOOD you need to get on that!

On a side note... (Plz don't kill me...) I noticed my i5 rig boots up a lot faster than my FX like the motherboard side of posting and booting just seems to be a bit quicker, not sure if that's my fault settings wise?


----------



## mus1mus

No clean install, mo problems.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> No clean install, mo problems.


Essentially ^









But hey, I was just trying to help the guy.. I learnt a lot as I did a direct upgrade from win 7.. and well ummm still haven't had a clean install


----------



## Nocturnal91

you have to go through the bios, i had that issue at first easiest way is to roll back one version of the bios by using the usb bios switch system should kick on fine then update all drivers and you can update the bios afterwards. Hope that helps


----------



## miklkit

Whoa people! It's not like it's a big deal. It's just one more button to push on startup. That means 3 instead of 2. It's a curiosity more than anything.

The only usb device connected to the puter is the printer.

With the GD80 this thing booted in 40-50 seconds. It takes me that long to set down me mug O coffee and get settled in. Never felt any need for a ssd before. The other SBT booted really slow too, so I guess it's just the nature of the beast.

No I am NOT going to mess with changing the bios. Far too dangerous.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Whoa people! It's not like it's a big deal. It's just one more button to push on startup. That means 3 instead of 2. It's a curiosity more than anything.
> 
> The only usb device connected to the puter is the printer.
> 
> With the GD80 this thing booted in 40-50 seconds. It takes me that long to set down me mug O coffee and get settled in. Never felt any need for a ssd before. The other SBT booted really slow too, so I guess it's just the nature of the beast.
> 
> No I am NOT going to mess with changing the bios. Far too dangerous.


Not the bios.. my kitty boots in seconds


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Whoa people! It's not like it's a big deal. It's just one more button to push on startup. That means 3 instead of 2. It's a curiosity more than anything.
> 
> The only usb device connected to the puter is the printer.
> 
> With the GD80 this thing booted in 40-50 seconds. It takes me that long to set down me mug O coffee and get settled in. Never felt any need for a ssd before. The other SBT booted really slow too, so I guess it's just the nature of the beast.
> 
> No I am NOT going to mess with changing the bios. Far too dangerous.


ssd will load Windows in about 8 to 15 seconds in most cases


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Whoa people! It's not like it's a big deal. It's just one more button to push on startup. That means 3 instead of 2. It's a curiosity more than anything.
> 
> The only usb device connected to the puter is the printer.
> 
> With the GD80 this thing booted in 40-50 seconds. It takes me that long to set down me mug O coffee and get settled in. Never felt any need for a ssd before. The other SBT booted really slow too, so I guess it's just the nature of the beast.
> 
> No I am NOT going to mess with changing the bios. Far too dangerous.
> 
> 
> 
> ssd will load Windows in about 8 to 15 seconds in most cases
Click to expand...

My best bootracer time with some tweaking

Normal boot times are from 14 to 20 seconds, origin, steam , malwarebytes, windows defender and thermaltake's liquid cooling control program slow it down a bit.


----------



## Nocturnal91

with SBT you dont have to worry too much on bios the method they use is safe but its always an option since for some reason the latest 5101 update is a little wonky


----------



## miklkit

I found the problem. This 2501 bios isn't the best. Sometimes there is no mouse and inthis case I could not choose the boot sequence.

There were 3 choices: the eufi/hard drive, the dvd drive, the printer. Today suddenly there are more choices and I chose the hard drive and it boots straight to winX without that error screen now. It seems it was booting to the eufi then going to winX.


----------



## hurricane28

I just installed an fresh Windows 10 because i had some severe issues and when i tried to install the crimson drivers i get errors.. gotta love windows and drivers..

If i am getting more of this rubbish i am seriously considering going to buy apple or install Ubuntu, just to get rid of all these Windows and driver issues..

I am spending more time on repairing Windows and try to make it work than i actually enjoy my system in the first place.. it also turned out that my new G.SKill RAM is not working correctly with my Sabertooth, i am not sure yet but i have had some serious issues after i installed it.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I just installed an fresh Windows 10 because i had some severe issues and when i tried to install the crimson drivers i get errors..


Why crimson? Dont you have a GTX?


----------



## Mega Man

yea, bad idea to install amd gpu drivers on a pc with nvidia GPU


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea, bad idea to install amd gpu drivers on a pc with nvidia GPU


usually blue screens in my experience


----------



## Mega Man

Yay pretty blue screens!


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yay pretty blue screens!


Blue screens..... hmm wonder if that has a hidden meaning?????


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Blue screens..... hmm wonder if that has a hidden meaning?????


I experienced a blue screen crash today with the latest crimson...had to boot into safe mode and ddu....I was tearing it up in dying light supersampled at 3220 x 1800 cores all around 50c looking and running beautifully then bam blue screen lockup...and blue screen loop on Windows restart in the blue screen loop of death yay...running slight overclock of 1000 1300 @ 1.21v on both...no crash dump however but blue screen cited amd driver again...so it's running again nut I.haven't retried the game yet


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Blue screens..... hmm wonder if that has a hidden meaning?????


IBM is about to release HL3.

With DX12, why would an AMD iGPU and nVidia dGPU cause issues? Just bad drivers? I can see issues under dx11-


----------



## Mega Man

he doesnt have a amd igpu he ONLY has a dedicated GPU and it is nvidia


----------



## mus1mus

Maybe he meant Crimson Sata drivers. If there are such things.


----------



## hurricane28

Yup, why would i install Crimson GPU drivers on a Nvidia GPU....









I downloaded the drivers Fears2Ashes linked a couple of pages back..


----------



## miklkit

Ayup. I did too. I don't know how he found them because I went there looking for them and only found the gpu drivers. I had tried those earlier and they failed to install so I'm still using the old 15.7.1 drivers. I do have the AMD sata drivers now and boot times are under a minute instead of 2-3 minutes.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Ayup. I did too. I don't know how he found them because I went there looking for them and only found the gpu drivers. I had tried those earlier and they failed to install so I'm still using the old 15.7.1 drivers. I do have the AMD sata drivers now and boot times are under a minute instead of 2-3 minutes.


Its quite simple actually, just google AMD chipset drivers and the first page is directly to the AMD site.

I had problems installing the newest drivers as well but i discovered that you first have to install: amd-catalyst-omega-14.12-sb-sata-ahci-win8.1-win7 in order to install the newest chipset drivers.

Here is the link: http://support.amd.com/en-us/download/chipset?os=Windows+10+-+64

Good luck.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea, bad idea to install amd gpu drivers on a pc with nvidia GPU


Some ppl would say thats bad idea also for a AMD gpu.









However, I believe that there is no Windows 10 official driver from AMD for 990FX boards by any manufaturer . Even the lastest mobos with USB 3.0 (Gigabyte GA-990FX-Gaming or MSI 990FXA GAMING ) doenst list AMD drivers...


----------



## mus1mus

Worse, Windows will install some unknown drivers for you if you let it do it's non sense.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Worse, Windows will install some unknown drivers for you if you let it do it's non sense.


yeah windows ten is worse...at least on 7 I can turn off auto install of drivers and not get the default garbage driver after I remove the amd drivers


----------



## mus1mus

You can do that with 10 as well. But that would mean manually checking on the items you need to update I guess.


----------



## hurricane28

Oh for the people who do not run the newest AMD chipset drivers, DO NOT INSTALL IT. It made my SSD very slow and there is an installation problem. I am talking about this driver: Radeon-Crimson-15.12-SB-SATA-AHCI-Win10-Win8.1-Win7-64Bit.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Oh for the people who do not run the newest AMD chipset drivers, DO NOT INSTALL IT. It made my SSD very slow and there is an installation problem. I am talking about this driver: Radeon-Crimson-15.12-SB-SATA-AHCI-Win10-Win8.1-Win7-64Bit.


I didn't see an issue


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> I didn't see an issue


Strange indeed, i only get 400 MB/s read and write with this driver.. i just revert back to the previous one and it gave me the same results..


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> I didn't see an issue
> 
> 
> 
> Strange indeed, i only get 400 MB/s read and write with this driver.. i just revert back to the previous one and it gave me the same results..
Click to expand...

You were complaining about slow SSD speeds prior to switch to the chipset as well.. I think something is scewing your scores.. like something in the background..


----------



## umeng2002

I believe these are the latest non-Crimson drivers?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> You were complaining about slow SSD speeds prior to switch to the chipset as well.. I think something is scewing your scores.. like something in the background..


Perhaps, but what? I can't find anything that may cause this weird behavior other than my new RAM. I have nothing but trouble with this new ram kit and i am fed up with it..


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> You were complaining about slow SSD speeds prior to switch to the chipset as well.. I think something is scewing your scores.. like something in the background..
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps, but what? I can't find anything that may cause this weird behavior other than my new RAM. I have nothing but trouble with this new ram kit and i am fed up with it..
Click to expand...

hmm post the ram kit and the timing and frequecy that you have them set at.. SS of the BIOS much appreciated


----------



## umeng2002

Mmm... no it seems the "Version 1.3.001.0276, 04/10/2015"

SATA drivers in the Crimson package are still from April.

I've had 0 issues with it.


----------



## hurricane28

This is my RAM kit: http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-2400c11d-16gxm

And here are my BIOS SS:


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> This is my RAM kit: http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-2400c11d-16gxm
> 
> And here are my BIOS SS:


1.95 on the nb yikes...


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> 1.95 on the nb yikes...


Its not the actual NB, its NB 1.8 voltage. Perhaps its a little too high, i will adjust it.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> 1.95 on the nb yikes...
> 
> 
> 
> Its not the actual NB, its NB 1.8 voltage. Perhaps its a little too high, i will adjust it.
Click to expand...

Yeah, not much point in going over 1.85v for that from what I've seen


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Yeah, not much point in going over 1.85v for that from what I've seen


I thought I remembered someone saying that


----------



## mus1mus

It could be your CPU-NB. Try using fsb at 254? For a 2500+ CPU-NB and 2400 RAM.

I haven't had luck with anything on 200 FSB personally. Especially with high RAM speeds.


----------



## hurricane28

Nope that's not it. If it was my CPU/NB it would also do it with my older RAM kit which it doesn't. And i can run that kit at 2400 MHz with much tightener timings without any problem.

I took out the crappy G.Skill ram and send it back to the store. A friend of mine who is an technical engineer will look at my PC because what is going on is waay beyond my knowledge.
Chipset drivers will not even install properly anymore and i have an fresh windows 10 installation... This is hardware related. I tried to solve these issues i have for over a week now and i am fed up with it and it takes too much time which i can spend on so many other more pleasing things than struggling with problems like this..

Earlier this week i was so mad that i almost threw the PC out of the window, so you can imagine how frustrated i am at this moment about these issues i am having at the moment.
Everything started the moment when i installed my new 16 GB G.Skill RAM kit, so my guess would be that the RAM is defective or there are more issues that are acting up..


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> It could be your CPU-NB. Try using fsb at 254? For a 2500+ CPU-NB and 2400 RAM.
> 
> I haven't had luck with anything on 200 FSB personally. Especially with high RAM speeds.


@hurricane28 I agree here the saber kitty with the 2400 divider never played to strongly with me.. I have had to raise the FSB to 225ish area and drop the divider down a notch to be more stable.


----------



## miklkit

I just want to say that the sata drivers are cursed with bad downloads as I had to DL them 3 times before I got the good full size DL.Then it worked perfectly.


----------



## mus1mus




----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> 1.95 on the nb yikes...
> 
> 
> 
> Its not the actual NB, its NB 1.8 voltage. Perhaps its a little too high, i will adjust it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah, not much point in going over 1.85v for that from what I've seen
Click to expand...

Yes we better be careful not to confuse people with that one - There are 2 NB voltages listed in AI suite , MSI differentiates the 2 by calling one NB-PCI-E voltage and it does indeed benefit from additional voltage.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> It could be your CPU-NB. Try using fsb at 254? For a 2500+ CPU-NB and 2400 RAM.
> 
> I haven't had luck with anything on 200 FSB personally. Especially with high RAM speeds.
> 
> 
> 
> @hurricane28 I agree here the saber kitty with the 2400 divider never played to strongly with me.. I have had to raise the FSB to 225ish area and drop the divider down a notch to be more stable.
Click to expand...

I never had an issue lol


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> It could be your CPU-NB. Try using fsb at 254? For a 2500+ CPU-NB and 2400 RAM.
> 
> I haven't had luck with anything on 200 FSB personally. Especially with high RAM speeds.
> 
> 
> 
> @hurricane28 I agree here the saber kitty with the 2400 divider never played to strongly with me.. I have had to raise the FSB to 225ish area and drop the divider down a notch to be more stable.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I never had an issue lol
Click to expand...

I have on 3 of the 5 boards i have had


----------



## hurricane28

Me neither, i can run FSB at 200 or 257 in order to get 2400 MHz RAM .
I did discover that my setup doesn't like FSB overclocking and to be honest i don't really see a point doing it.

I don't know man, all of a sudden the performance benchmark in Samsung magician doesn't work anymore.. its all because of that stupid memory kit, i did run memtest one hole night and it didn't find any errors so the problem is not the memory itself but the compatibility i guess. I know my board and i know my chip and they can both run 2400 MHz ram easily even at tightener timings.


----------



## hurricane28

Hmm it appears that the Crimson 15.12 is utter crap and doesn't come with its own installer for the chipset, i also noticed that the download link is broken and i need to download it several times in order to get the complete package lol

I am more and more disliking AMD at the moment..


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Hmm it appears that the Crimson 15.12 is utter crap and doesn't come with its own installer for the chipset, i also noticed that the download link is broken and i need to download it several times in order to get the complete package lol
> 
> I am more and more disliking AMD at the moment..


he says as everyone else is raving about the new driver package and update process and how it is delivered...









What version of windows are you on?


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> he says as everyone else is raving about the new driver package and update process and how it is delivered...


im raving too i reckon its user error LOL joking


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> he says as everyone else is raving about the new driver package and update process and how it is delivered...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im raving too i reckon its user error LOL
Click to expand...

Can I PUHLEEEESSS post the 5GHz Coolermaster evo conversations? this brings back so many good memories


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Can I PUHLEEEESSS post the 5GHz Coolermaster evo conversations? this brings back so many good memories


i miss the good ol' days too haha


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Hmm it appears that the Crimson 15.12 is utter crap and doesn't come with its own installer for the chipset, i also noticed that the download link is broken and i need to download it several times in order to get the complete package lol
> 
> I am more and more disliking AMD at the moment..


You have to trsut Satya Nadella and accept his drivers.









I feel the same 2 months ago when I did a clean install. So iI started to think that AMD doesnt need to develope drivers for Windows 10. Now I really believe that they really trust Satya Nadella.


----------



## miklkit

Sigh........If only his last name started with an "M".


----------



## umeng2002

You can tell they let Bob, down in the basement, who also handles the Marketing interns, write the chipset drivers.

This whole Crimson, shibaz is more for GPUs really.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> he says as everyone else is raving about the new driver package and update process and how it is delivered...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im raving too i reckon its user error LOL
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Can I PUHLEEEESSS post the 5GHz Coolermaster evo conversations? this brings back so many good memories
Click to expand...

please do I need a good laugh - also please include the multitudes of 5GHz h100i conversations


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> he says as everyone else is raving about the new driver package and update process and how it is delivered...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im raving too i reckon its user error LOL
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Can I PUHLEEEESSS post the 5GHz Coolermaster evo conversations? this brings back so many good memories
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> please do I need a good laugh - also please include the multitudes of 5GHz h100i conversations
Click to expand...

I do believe the h100i could hold 5Ghz iirc


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> he says as everyone else is raving about the new driver package and update process and how it is delivered...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im raving too i reckon its user error LOL
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Can I PUHLEEEESSS post the 5GHz Coolermaster evo conversations? this brings back so many good memories
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> please do I need a good laugh - also please include the multitudes of 5GHz h100i conversations
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I do believe the h100i could hold 5Ghz iirc
Click to expand...

It can


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> he says as everyone else is raving about the new driver package and update process and how it is delivered...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im raving too i reckon its user error LOL
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Can I PUHLEEEESSS post the 5GHz Coolermaster evo conversations? this brings back so many good memories
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> please do I need a good laugh - also please include the multitudes of 5GHz h100i conversations
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I do believe the h100i could hold 5Ghz iirc
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It can
Click to expand...

My h-100 would for daily use on the cool running GD-80/8350 , battlefield 3/4 at 5.1ghz too, but extended stressing would overwhelm it above 4.9ghz.

I've got an 8370e under it now - priming at 4.6ghz it was at 40C core temp - no socket or Vrm fans around 70 F ambient.

The thermaltake 2.0 water extreme held a 5 ghz overclock on the CHV-Z rig for about a year for daily usage, but it ran about 10c warmer with fans on the vrm and behind the socket. I then started swapping chips around so much that I really didn't have a set oc per sey.

I've got the h100i gtx on the 4790k now, much more substantial than the h-100 - should do a comparison sometime.


----------



## Mega Man

I am talking tge Ole chips


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I am talking tge Ole chips


Yeah, old chips were a bit harder to get it, a few could but not many


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> please do I need a good laugh - also please include the multitudes of 5GHz h100i conversations


Don't forget us H80i jokers as well!


----------



## umeng2002

Whah... a fan behind the socket makes such a big difference when stress testing at 4.6 GHz. Like an 8-10°C difference.

Almost too much, my H80i is controlled by the BIOS and socket temp. More tweaking needed with Q-fan.


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Whah... a fan behind the socket makes such a big difference when stress testing at 4.6 GHz. Like an 8-10°C difference.
> 
> Almost too much, my H80i is controlled by the BIOS and socket temp. More tweaking needed with Q-fan.


A picture paints a thousand words.....

Have a couple of thousands worth...


Fan blowing on rear of Mobo to cool rear of socket and VRMs...


Fans on the VRMs and northbridge...


----------



## mus1mus

Can someone remind me how many times have I seen this FUGLY?


----------



## miklkit

Not enough times.


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Can someone remind me how many times have I seen this FUGLY?


Oh about a thousand times...I do like the word Fugly....a bloody good description...beauty is in the eye of the beholder...FUGLY it is then...









And it will give Gertie a good laugh and maybe give the new guys and gals some idea on how to cool their overclock..or even some idea of "how not to do it if you don't want it to look FUGLY"....


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Can someone remind me how many times have I seen this FUGLY?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh about a thousand times...I do like the word Fugly....a bloody good description...beauty is in the eye of the beholder...FUGLY it is then...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it will give Gertie a good laugh and maybe give the new guys and gals some idea on how to cool their overclock..or even some idea of "how not to do it if you don't want it to look FUGLY"....
Click to expand...

Wait wait wait, did you not see gerties fugly orange tubing lol boy hes grown so much sniff sniff hahA


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Wait wait wait, did you not see gerties fugly orange tubing lol boy hes grown so much sniff sniff hahA


haha i liked the orange it was the green that was fugly


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> A picture paints a thousand words.....
> 
> Have a couple of thousands worth...
> 
> Fans on the VRMs and northbridge...


Damn...

Also, does anyone who uses Q-Fan for the CPU notice that it seems to be constant curve/ slope?

Like I change the Max Temp and Max fan speed, but as soon as the socket hits the new Max fan speed, the fans go to 100%, NOT to the Maximum I set.

Changing the Min fan speed and Temp works fine.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Damn...
> 
> Also, does anyone who uses Q-Fan for the CPU notice that it seems to be constant curve/ slope?
> 
> Like I change the Max Temp and Max fan speed, but as soon as the socket hits the new Max fan speed, the fans go to 100%, NOT to the Maximum I set.
> 
> Changing the Min fan speed and Temp works fine.


I have a fan controller now simply because my fans were too loud when connected to the motherboard.


----------



## OzPapaSmurf

None


----------



## Mega Man

Did you update bios sounds like you got a different board back


----------



## gordesky1

So i finally setup raid 0 with my 2 old wd 1tbs drives, Im trying to figure out is this good speed for them???



Heres my old 120gb ocz Agility 4 for some reason this is reading really low..... but it could be because its 94% full... Tho i never got even close to the max read or write even when new on this board....



Do both of those look low? i know the ssd does....


----------



## Mega Man

The ssd looks normal for something that is way too full. You are are not supposed to go over 70%....

As for raid no idea, if you dont have a true raid controller, raid sucks and is useless imo


----------



## gordesky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The ssd looks normal for something that is way too full. You are are not supposed to go over 70%....
> 
> As for raid no idea, if you dont have a true raid controller, raid sucks and is useless imo


Yep i know which why i had to get my raid over to this machine lol the ssd has 58% free now but it still doesn't read as it suppose too.. Shouldn't this drive read and write over 300mbs?

I really don't like how the controllers are on this board finally noticing that now... lol windows will not load when in ide mode.. Before i was running it with ahci, But sense im running raid i need to run the 4 ports in raid mode and the 2 other ports ony goes in ide mode... Now if i run all ports in raid mode the ssd boots fine and loads windows, But i notice trim is not active when doing so ... So i would say that's a no go there...

At the moment im running the ssd off the white ports which is the ASMedia controller which i herd you suffer performance using those instead of the amd 950 ports... which i don't really much difference if any..

Is there a way to get windows to load with ide mode? think last time when i was trying that with a old pc it needed a windows reinstall to do that...

And so far from looking up benchmarks for raid 0 with the wd blacks 1tbs it seems like they are doing ok. One thing i don't understand is when i try hdtune on them or any other disk software than crystaldiskmark it will disconnect the drives and i will have to restart to get them to show up again...


----------



## Mega Man

I have that ssd and board and when I used it I had no issues, you have to use AHCI for ssd speeds ide is not good

And you want to run ssds off the chipset it does make a large diff.

I have a feeling you have other issues affecting this


----------



## gordesky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I have that ssd and board and when I used it I had no issues, you have to use AHCI for ssd speeds ide is not good
> 
> And you want to run ssds off the chipset it does make a large diff.
> 
> I have a feeling you have other issues affecting this


The thing is when running raid 0 on this board it does not allow to run ahci on ports 5 and 6 ony in ide so i had no choice to either try and get ide mode working

which i killed windows---- couple hours ago cause windows wouldn't boot after changing a registry file. Good thing for recovery that lets you reset but keeps your files.

So at the moment i have to run it on the white ports, or if i want to kill the drive faster run it on the raid ports with no trim...

But yea even in ahci mode speeds are not that great either. it could be the ssd is just wearing out cause i did have it for almost 5 years and my pc is on 24/7.

Heck even on my gigabyte 790 board when i had this ssd in it i never got close to the rated speeds either.

I really don't see any other issues other than the ssd is just old. cause if i scan it with a ssd program it says its heath is at 91% but says it has no problems. I mean everything runs fast still but in benchmarks i never see the rated speed.

Also what controller drivers are you using? cause i always use what comes with windows so maybe that's why?


----------



## gordesky1

I figured i do a test again after windows files was reset.



I say that looks much better lol its also on the white ports too. Im not sure what was causing the bad speed before maybe something was leaching at it, Or a driver was mess up.

Still wish i could run it on the native ports but this board doesn't let you run AHCI while doing raid...


----------



## mirzet1976

Guys, do bios update erase OC profile, if there is a way to keep OC profiles without having to print screen F12.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mirzet1976*
> 
> Guys, do bios update erase OC profile, if there is a way to keep OC profiles without having to print screen F12.


with regards to m yself sometimes they do sometimes they dont lol and u cant save them on a flash drive either its all or nothing


----------



## mirzet1976

I just upgraded and OC profiles are lost.


----------



## miklkit

It's not a perfect world. I have pics of my basic OCs stashed away so I can get it back up to speed pretty quickly.


----------



## mirzet1976

In fact there was no need for this upgrade, because I have a problem with the Crucial SSD MX100 BIOS does not see it. PC was my long off, all the hardware disconnected from the PSU because my GPU was out of the game broke my bios switch on R9 290. While I took care of GPU to work now I have a problem with the SSD.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mirzet1976*
> 
> In fact there was no need for this upgrade, because I have a problem with the Crucial SSD MX100 BIOS does not see it. PC was my long off, all the hardware disconnected from the PSU because my GPU was out of the game broke my bios switch on R9 290. While I took care of GPU to work now I have a problem with the SSD.


That's unfortunate mate. But OC'ing on this board is pretty straightforward anyway.

And you get to refresh and verify your Overclocks. All of which, are good to validate things.

Try the other SATA ports.


----------



## Hardrock

Any of you all having trouble with SLI on this MOBO. I have 2 980 TI classified cards ( EVGA). GPU 2 usage is 0% in Prexision X and MSI afterburner with SLI enabled in NV control panel. Using Stock SLI bridge that came with MOBO


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> Any of you all having trouble with SLI on this MOBO. I have 2 980 TI classified cards ( EVGA). GPU 2 usage is 0% in Prexision X and MSI afterburner with SLI enabled in NV control panel. Using Stock SLI bridge that came with MOBO


Yeah, I couldn't enable SLI on my rev 1 board so I had to mod the system32 file to make it work.

Linky


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Yeah, I couldn't enable SLI on my rev 1 board so I had to mod the system32 file to make it work.
> 
> Linky


Thanks, I guess I need to check what REV my MOBO is, not sure but was bought a while back so likely an early version.

Does that patch work with windows 10 ?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> Thanks, I guess I need to check what REV my MOBO is, not sure but was bought a while back so likely an early version.
> 
> Does that patch work with windows 10 ?


Not entirely sure, I did it on win 7 ultimate, couldn't say if it will work on 10 sorry.


----------



## n9nu

Hi guys

I am trying to find a definitive answer in regards to the following hardware and compatibility:

*Motherboard:* Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2 Gen 3.0 (*PCI-E 3.x supported*)
*SSD:* Intel 750 400GB PCI-E NVMe SSD

Does this motherboard fully support the Intel 750 (with respect to performance and being bootable) into Win 10 64 Bit OS??

I realize the previous version of this motherboard (R2) is NOT PCI-E 3.x and will work, however, with limited potential. If the newer board I have is fully compatible, what is the proper procedure to preform a fresh install of Win 10 64 Bit ? I have the latest UEFI/BIOS, so that is all set. Will Win 10 ask me for the NVMe driver....via the 'Hit F6' or other option at the requested time or do I need to do do something different.

Tnx Tim


----------



## Mega Man

You probably won't be able to find that board, and it won't really help you.

They used a pcie PLX chip to enable pcie3.0 for communication between the gpus.

The am3+ cpus do NOT support pcie3 I am sure both the Sabertooth and cvfz will support pcie booting but really asus is the only one able to answer you ( or someone with it, you may see if any sabertooth, cvfz owner have a Revo drive, same principle, I am about 90% sure i have read that some had once, amd they ARE compatible )


----------



## PurpleChef

Just ordered a Asus Sabertooth 990fx. Will be pretty big upgrade from Gigabyte GA-990XA-UD3 Rev3 i think.
Tryed to get help earlier with OC, and ppl would just tell me to get a new mb ASAP.
Maybe i can finally get both tempratures and volume down









Is is best to reinstall windows after changing mb, or will it just work out of the box?

What much do you think i can OC my 8350 with this mb? cooler is Noctua NH-U9B Special Edition SE2


----------



## miklkit

You will be happy with the new board. As far as windows is concerned, in your control panel updates and security section you will find a phone number so you can call them and they will give you a new key code. This is all that is needed to keep windows happy with your new board.

How far will that cooler let the 8350 go? 4.4 or so.


----------



## PurpleChef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> You will be happy with the new board. As far as windows is concerned, in your control panel updates and security section you will find a phone number so you can call them and they will give you a new key code. This is all that is needed to keep windows happy with your new board.
> 
> How far will that cooler let the 8350 go? 4.4 or so.


call who? lol. no pay for windows my friend?

4.4 seems low


----------



## miklkit

You call Microsoft with the phone number provided in your control panel.

That cooler is smaller than the ones with 120mm fans and they usually top out around 4.5 ghz.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurpleChef*
> 
> call who? lol. no pay for windows my friend?
> 
> 4.4 seems low


be careful with that here


----------



## PurpleChef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> be careful with that here


no pay for windows call my friend*
My bad


----------



## hurricane28

LOL. call Microsoft..

I called once and i got an incompetent idiot on the phone who only made me more annoyed than i already was..


----------



## cssorkinman

It's all automated now. Dont have to talk to anyone unless you are over your actvation limit


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> It's all automated now. Dont have to talk to anyone unless you are over your actvation limit


You can live chat with microsoft support, my gf did when we had issues with ther MSX pro key.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> You can live chat with microsoft support, my gf did when we had issues with ther MSX pro key.


most of the time that's not needed in fact they will send you a text with the information now so you don't have to repeat the whole spill if you miss something


----------



## PurpleChef

Got The sabertooth 990fx v2 board today,but wont boot. Checked all cables, redid everything, no start.
Cpu is 8350.cpu Light red.
Read some were that it might need bios update to work with this Cpu. So i downloaded the latest bios on another computer and put it on usb stick. Tryed the 3 second hold but light turn insta blue. Read the manuall and i missed to rename it.
So i renamed it and started The Usb bios flashback again. This time usb led is blinkning for a long time and usb stick is glowing all time. Then it turn blue and usb still in use. I then Wait for like 15-20min and light dosnt go off, like it should regarding to the manuall. Should it take that long?
When i try to boot know it starts a few seconds then turning off.

Edit: pulled out power cable 15-20 mins. Try to boot and still no picture/cpu+boot_device_led is red.


----------



## miklkit

It has the CPU light on? Is the CPU installed properly, as in there are no bent pins? I can think of nothing else but either a dead CPU or a DOA motherboard.


----------



## PurpleChef

Yes. Cpu+boot_device_led is red. Now i cant start it.
Cpu have no bent pins. Cpu worked fine before changing mb. According to the manuall, usb bios Flash should work. It seems to made things worse.
Need stuff to try...

How comon is DOA mbs? Must be some thing that can be done. That this board have so diffrent bios is zzz hate sending stuff back. Missing something


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurpleChef*
> 
> Yes. Cpu+boot_device_led is red. Now i cant start it.
> Cpu have no bent pins. Cpu worked fine before changing mb. According to the manuall, usb bios Flash should work. It seems to made things worse.
> Need stuff to try...
> 
> How comon is DOA mbs? Must be some thing that can be done. That this board have so diffrent bios is zzz hate sending stuff back. Missing something


I just remembered having a similar issue with my sabertooth and it was my top 360mm radiator touching my USB hub shorting it out. Check your motherboard isn't sat on a stand off, is the rear I/O shield poking into one the rear USB connectors? Try taking the motherboard out and testing it on your motherboard box.


----------



## PurpleChef

Dosnt understand everything but u mean remove it from the chassi, laying down and trying to run it? Thx for help


----------



## PurpleChef

Tryed the motherboard without chassi now. Only one fan connected. Green light it showing that it get power, but it wont boot. Nothing happends when i press power button.
Tryed to flash a earlier bios version, and it seems to work to flash bios.

Tryed the same thing with my old motherboard,only a fan connected, and the fan spins right away...

Rip motherboard? support is closed today so can't call them either.


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurpleChef*
> 
> Tryed the motherboard without chassi now. Only one fan connected. Green light it showing that it get power, but it wont boot. Nothing happends when i press power button.
> Tryed to flash a earlier bios version, and it seems to work to flash bios.
> 
> Tryed the same thing with my old motherboard,only a fan connected, and the fan spins right away...
> 
> Rip motherboard? support is closed today so can't call them either.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurpleChef*
> 
> Tryed the motherboard without chassi now. Only one fan connected. Green light it showing that it get power, but it wont boot. Nothing happends when i press power button.
> Tryed to flash a earlier bios version, and it seems to work to flash bios.
> 
> Tryed the same thing with my old motherboard,only a fan connected, and the fan spins right away...
> 
> Rip motherboard? support is closed today so can't call them either.


Should look like

When or if it runs ok mount it all back in your case


----------



## PurpleChef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> Should look like
> 
> When or if it runs ok mount it all back in your case


Yes. Tryed like that, and with motherboard and one fan only. Nothing happends when i press powerbutton.
Anyway to reset the bios to standard? re-flashing it dosn't help.


----------



## c0V3Ro

Huge CPU, VRM throttling?

Old MB, 970, [email protected], 7270.
http://www.3dmark.com/fs/7633998
New MB(1yr old), 990fx. All stock, 1st run, 8726.
http://www.3dmark.com/fs/7824338













Seems that now will be possible to push things forward.









Cleaning the board...


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0V3Ro*
> 
> Huge CPU, VRM throttling?


Kill It with fire? ^_^

Now seriusly ... hopefully no corrosion went to the solder balls beneath that chip if you are lucky.


----------



## miklkit

Man those are some ugly pics.


----------



## PurpleChef

Update: Got a new motherboard today, working








So fixed some basic settings in bios then checked this OC guide
Beginners Guide: How to overclock AMD Processors FX-8350 Piledriver

Got into bios fix some settings, and my Cpu Vcore default is showing 1.25V. So i set it to static 1.25V.
Isn't that a good low number or? Jayztwocents's default vcore is 1.38

He is suggesting cpu bus overclocking to get better single core performace, if i understand stuff right.

So can i go on until it won't boot, then just lower it some?


----------



## Mega Man

Congrats on the board

While jayztwocents is a "good guy"

He has several false facts he let's fly like candy.

Fsb or multi

There are great reasons to use fsb style ocing and reasons not to,

Imo you should not if you are new to ocing and / or do know know your chip.

If you don't know your cup then DO NOT fsb oc, it will make more problems then solutions.

Using fsb to 4.8 or multi to 4.8 you will get the same result in both single core and multi


----------



## mus1mus

Bus Overclocking if you want to get the best out of everything. RAM Included. Otherwise, Single Core Performance increases with clock speed.

VID or what you see as 1.25 is just a number. Overclocking is another.

List down your rig's components and people will chime in to help you better.


----------



## PurpleChef

CPU: AMD FX8350
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U9B Special Edition SE2 (stupid standard > one fan bot/one top > blowing air to top)
GPU: XFX Radeon 290X
PSU: Corsair CX750M
RAM: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (8+8) DDR3-1600

1 x 120 fan front in
1 x 140 fan front in
1 x 140 fan back out
1 x 120 fan top out

Have the ability to mount a fan in the bottom of the tower, another one top, and one on the side.

Might any slot help? stupid cpu cooler moves the air down>up instead of right>left

Just lookin for like 4.4 ghz or smt


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurpleChef*
> 
> CPU: AMD FX8350
> CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U9B Special Edition SE2 (stupid standard > one fan bot/one top > blowing air to top)
> GPU: XFX Radeon 290X
> PSU: Corsair CX750M
> RAM: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (8+8) DDR3-1600
> 
> 1 x 120 fan front in
> 1 x 140 fan front in
> 1 x 140 fan back out
> 1 x 120 fan top out
> 
> Have the ability to mount a fan in the bottom of the tower, another one top, and one on the side.
> 
> Might any slot help? stupid cpu cooler moves the air down>up instead of right>left
> 
> Just lookin for like 4.4 ghz or smt


Easy then.

First, go to the BIOS and Disable Turbo Boost and reboot back to BIOS.

Set Vcore to 1.4
CPU Multi to 22 (just to start to gauge the Voltage requirement)
Set CPU-NB to 2200
HT Link to 2600
RAM Frequency to 1600 or Enable DOCP Profile on AI Tuner
CPU-NB Voltage to 1.25
NB Voltage to 1.25
HT Link Voltage to 1.25
RAM Voltage - 1.65
CPU VDDA to 2.5

And try to boot.

If it enters Windows, do a quick IBT AVX Test. or, Grab a USB Pen Drive. And format it to FAT32. On BIOS Pages, Press F12 to save a screenshot of the BIOS settings. Do this if you need help on certain areas.


----------



## PurpleChef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Easy then.
> 
> First, go to the BIOS and Disable Turbo Boost and reboot back to BIOS.
> 
> Set Vcore to 1.4
> CPU Multi to 22 (just to start to gauge the Voltage requirement)
> Set CPU-NB to 2200
> HT Link to 2600
> RAM Frequency to 1600 or Enable DOCP Profile on AI Tuner
> CPU-NB Voltage to 1.25
> NB Voltage to 1.25
> HT Link Voltage to 1.25
> RAM Voltage - 1.65
> CPU VDDA to 2.5
> 
> And try to boot.
> 
> If it enters Windows, do a quick IBT AVX Test. or, Grab a USB Pen Drive. And format it to FAT32. On BIOS Pages, Press F12 to save a screenshot of the BIOS settings. Do this if you need help on certain areas.


Got those settings now. Cant i run P95 small FFTs?

I thought the first step was to just raise the CPU Multiplier and se how far it goes with stock voltage without p95 error


----------



## Mega Man

Seasoned ocers may skip some steps


----------



## mus1mus

Yep. Right. You can do it the slow way or do a quick run just to get a feel of things.


----------



## PurpleChef

Those settings caused the temps to get to high with P95.

now im runing at 4.2 @ stock voltage.

Temps after 15 min FFTs:
Socket max 61
Core max 53
Mainboard max 30


----------



## PurpleChef

added a 140 fan top, and one on the back of the MB.

Socket 55, Core 54,1, MB 30 after 15min FFT's P95

Socket down by 6, thats all. Weird. Might the second fan on top do something negative?

Are the fan on back of MB supposte to blow fresh air into the chassi, or blow air out?

update:



to bad cpu cooler to go much higher?


----------



## miklkit

I really wish you had a sig rig so we could find your hardware specs easily.

Case airflow: Lose that top rear exhaust fan and make the top front an intake fan. Why is your CPU cooler mounted for vertical air flow? This means it is sucking hot air off the video card in which makes it run that much hotter. Turning it so it has horizontal air flow will make it run cooler, and that will let it take air from the top front intake, making it that much cooler yet.

EDIT: I found your specs. Ya, rotate that cooler.

My first ever attempt at OCing was with a Gigabyte UD3 and an Arctic Cooling A30 single tower that is probably better than the cooler your using. You will want to upgrade. Anyhoo, as instructed I bumped the multi up until windows wouldn't boot, dropped back one click, and then bumped the vcore up. Then used OCCT to stress test. That got 4.5 ghz as the UD3 overvolted it to begin with. That was also the limit of the cooling.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurpleChef*
> 
> added a 140 fan top, and one on the back of the MB.
> 
> Socket 55, Core 54,1, MB 30 after 15min FFT's P95
> 
> Socket down by 6, thats all. Weird. Might the second fan on top do something negative?
> 
> Are the fan on back of MB supposte to blow fresh air into the chassi, or blow air out?
> 
> update:
> 
> 
> 
> to bad cpu cooler to go much higher?


always towards the board...did better on all the rigs and all the cases I've used...


----------



## PurpleChef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I really wish you had a sig rig so we could find your hardware specs easily.
> 
> Case airflow: Lose that top rear exhaust fan and make the top front an intake fan. Why is your CPU cooler mounted for vertical air flow? This means it is sucking hot air off the video card in which makes it run that much hotter. Turning it so it has horizontal air flow will make it run cooler, and that will let it take air from the top front intake, making it that much cooler yet.
> 
> EDIT: I found your specs. Ya, rotate that cooler.
> 
> My first ever attempt at OCing was with a Gigabyte UD3 and an Arctic Cooling A30 single tower that is probably better than the cooler your using. You will want to upgrade. Anyhoo, as instructed I bumped the multi up until windows wouldn't boot, dropped back one click, and then bumped the vcore up. Then used OCCT to stress test. That got 4.5 ghz as the UD3 overvolted it to begin with. That was also the limit of the cooling.


Its vertical air flow because its standard with this stupid cpu cooler. didnt know when i bought it. they didnt sent stuff to make it horisontal. gotta buy some extra stuff i think.

dont really know how u mean. do you mean reverse the air flow, so its takin in air from the top, pushing it down, and then out? what fans should intake and exhaust? could u make an optimal fan setup picuture in paint or smt?







or paste some other pic.


----------



## miklkit

Click on the picture in my sig rig. There are 3 pics there and 2 of them have air flow arrows on them. One is from 2013 and shows my first attempt and the other is from 2015 after much testing different combinations. I am a strong believer in horizontal front to rear air flow and have found that a fan in the top rear spot does no good and can increase temperatures.

In your case where the air flow HAS to go up it might actually do some good tho.


----------



## PurpleChef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Click on the picture in my sig rig. There are 3 pics there and 2 of them have air flow arrows on them. One is from 2013 and shows my first attempt and the other is from 2015 after much testing different combinations. I am a strong believer in horizontal front to rear air flow and have found that a fan in the top rear spot does no good and can increase temperatures.
> 
> In your case where the air flow HAS to go up it might actually do some good tho.


Played some Black Desert Online and some CS.

Socket 47
Core 46,4
MB 34

4.3 @ stock 1.25V


(I also got one fan on the back of the mb)

Red arrows is current airflow
Purple arrows is something like you thought?

The painted fan is a possible side fan. (could maybe work with current setup if it exhaust air? its pretty long down, so it might remove some heat from the gpu. or u think it would remove the air coming in from front?)

Also thinking about removing the hdd case and mount the ssd's on the side or the chassi or smt. can i stack both ssd's on top of each other without complications?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurpleChef*
> 
> Played some Black Desert Online and some CS.
> 
> Socket 47
> Core 46,4
> MB 34
> 
> 4.3 @ stock 1.25V
> 
> 
> (I also got one fan on the back of the mb)
> 
> Red arrows is current airflow
> Purple arrows is something like you thought?
> 
> The painted fan is a possible side fan. (could maybe work with current setup if it exhaust air? its pretty long down, so it might remove some heat from the gpu. or u think it would remove the air coming in from front?)
> 
> Also thinking about removing the hdd case and mount the ssd's on the side or the chassi or smt. can i stack both ssd's on top of each other without complications?


he was meaning turn your cooler 90 degrees to the left...this will put it front to rear on airflow...this helps cool the vrms too...


----------



## PurpleChef

Its not possible i think u need some extra stuff for it


----------



## miklkit

With that CPU cooler it is setup just fine as it is.

If you are concerned about dust getting inside the case you will want to improve the intake air flow. As it is it looks like a negative pressure case. That means there is more exhaust flow than intake flow. There is nothing wrong with that except that air gets sucked in from every crack and opening in the case instead of going through any filters first. I can't tell from the picture if the case has front filters or not, but I suspect it does.

So try doing something about the hard drives and maybe remove one exhaust fan. Oh, with a single GPU all 3 PCI-E slots are 16x so that hot running 290X can be put in any of them to help it get more air.


----------



## PurpleChef

Good idea to move the gpu down.

So i changed it. Now its 2x140 intake, and the cpu fans blowing down,and 2x120 exhaus fans front.
Thought they would cool better. About the same temps, maybe a bit higher numbers.
Back got no fan atm. U think of i add a fan, it Will ***c up The airflow? Maybe add side fan exhaust?

Edit:
Socket 56, Core 52.8, MB 34 (40mins FFTs) 4.3 @ 1.25v

Edit 2:
Socket 60, Core 59,5, MB 35 (10mins FFTs) 4.4 @ 1.25, cpu
(after 10-12 min the computer frooze)

So guess i can't get much higher, right? raised the vcore with 1 step when worker stoped, then run it again.


----------



## miklkit

Keep experimenting with air flow. The CPU fans blowing down sounds wrong to me as then the air flow in the case would be fighting itself and going no where. Try to think of air as clear water and then look at the case and try to get it in and out as smoothly as possible.

It looks like you are hitting the limits of your cooling for now.


----------



## PurpleChef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Keep experimenting with air flow. The CPU fans blowing down sounds wrong to me as then the air flow in the case would be fighting itself and going no where. Try to think of air as clear water and then look at the case and try to get it in and out as smoothly as possible.
> 
> It looks like you are hitting the limits of your cooling for now.


1 side fan + 2 front fans is blowing air out. the side fan is lined up with the gpu.
also have one fan on the back, even tho case is closed, blowing on the back of the mb.
seems to work good i think. I mean the cpu cooler isn't the best.
Do you think any other setup with the fans would result in a better result, now that the stupid cpu fans is vertical?

Socket 61, Core 60.6, MB 36 (20mins) 1.28V @ 4.4 without fails. (CPU LLC HIGH, CPU/NB LLC HIGH. 130%, 130%)

But thats not even close to the temps while gaming. Gaming is so so much lower.


----------



## miklkit

Did I misunderstand you? I thought the front fans were still intake fans.









So you reversed the flow so it comes in the rear and top and exits out the front and side.









Ok, how are the video card temperatures? It gets its air from underneath and blows it out the rear, sides, and front doesn't it? Is it getting enough air to keep it cool?

Oh, what does vcore1 say? The way I have HWINFO64 set up that is the VRM temperature.


----------



## jamesmith

I have the Sabertooth R2 motherboard TUF series. I have had the same issues for ages. I thought well it says 5 years warrenty. Well found out different from ASUS. They actually base it on your country without telling you. So like myself got just 3 years whereas other parts gets the so called 5 years.

https://www.asus.com/uk/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R20/HelpDesk_Warranty/

The link shows you 5 years for the TUF series but then says no its 3 years to all motherboards as of 1999. Taking this into account please be careful if your concidering getting the Sabertooth motherboard or any other for that matter from ASUS.

PS They first claimed it was caused by the graphics card perhaps, however the graphics card didn't cause any whining in a lower rated motherboard. The noise seems to be coming from where you'll find heatsink back end of the motherboard next to the CPU platform. This area has a lot of chokes and inductors etc. I tend to find its only present while the computer has is running an OS. In BIOS there is no noise. Also the noise itself is on and off almost like morsecode LOL.


----------



## gordesky1

Hmm been having issues with my saber again.. Ram issues again sometimes it detects 16gb and other times it does 8gb seems to be pressure sensitive so im thinking warp board??? than im notice my gpu was running at 4x in the 2nd pcie slot..... So i pop it in the first one and its now at 16x... And overclocking went to **** on it..

4 days ago my water block got a crack in it so i had to replace it with the stock heat sink which ran fine for 2days, So i decided to pop on the good old h100 which ran fine for a day than bang got a lock up at ony 4.4ghz 1.35v so i figure it probably needed more vcore cause i usely ran this chip lately at 4.7ghz-4.8ghz at 1.4-1.47v, So i loaded a known stable profile that i ran on my other water cooling raijintek triton and bang pc shut off and turn it self back on after i click start on avx..

So at the moment been running everything at stock with the stock heat sink and everything seems fine. i just got the new block in today so going to put that back on and hopeing i can get everything back to normal...

I really think something is going wrong with this board tho cause none of those issues should be happening.. the pcie slots should be all running at 16x right?


----------



## miklkit

From my manual there are 4 PCI-E x16 slots. If 2 are used they are x16, if 3 are used they are x16, x8, x8 and one(the bottom one?) supports x4.

How did you find out it is running at x4? I'm running my GPU in the bottom slot.


----------



## Mega Man

Just because a slot has a x16 body, dies not Mean that it has 16 lanes *electrically* connected.


----------



## miklkit

According to the manual they are x16 slots when used singly or in pairs. Three cards = x16 x8 x8 and also x4 for one slot, the black one. Like I wrote before, one slot SUPPORTS x4. Dunno what that distinction means.

I only have one video card and I have put it into different slots and I have not noticed any difference in performance. It is NOT in the black x4 slot so should be x16. This is one of the good things about the Sabertooth. It is feature rich.


----------



## gordesky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> According to the manual they are x16 slots when used singly or in pairs. Three cards = x16 x8 x8 and also x4 for one slot, the black one. Like I wrote before, one slot SUPPORTS x4. Dunno what that distinction means.
> 
> I only have one video card and I have put it into different slots and I have not noticed any difference in performance. It is NOT in the black x4 slot so should be x16. This is one of the good things about the Sabertooth. It is feature rich.


wait so the black 2nd pcie slot is 4x? if so that would explained it being 4x. right now i have it in the bottom grey slot and it also reads 16x as the top grey one does.

and im using gpuz.

But yea Pop the new raijintek triton block on and thought all will be well... But nope i had a hard time getting it to read 16gb again it just kept on reading 8gb, and if i take out the first ram stick and leave the 2nd one in i just got beeps which means no ram detected.. So after pulling up on the block a couple times which yea i know ain't a good idea to do so.. but doing so I got it to read 16gb again... I don't have the mounting hardware tight either this time i put it on looser than before. Not sure how this board got warp or what ever the problem is..

heck it was even doing it couple times with the amd heat sink..

Looks like a rma is in the future for it... just cant do it now cause i be out of a gaming pc lol


----------



## PurpleChef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Did I misunderstand you? I thought the front fans were still intake fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you reversed the flow so it comes in the rear and top and exits out the front and side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, how are the video card temperatures? It gets its air from underneath and blows it out the rear, sides, and front doesn't it? Is it getting enough air to keep it cool?
> 
> Oh, what does vcore1 say? The way I have HWINFO64 set up that is the VRM temperature.


Yes, reverse flow. Only good i could think of with this cpu cooler, or what you think? Vcore1? cant see it


----------



## miklkit

Vcore1 is in the ASUS EC section and I did not have to install AI Suite to get it to show up. For me it looks like this. 

Methinks it can be turned on and off in HWINFO64 settings.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Vcore1 is in the ASUS EC section and I did not have to install AI Suite to get it to show up. For me it looks like this.
> 
> Methinks it can be turned on and off in HWINFO64 settings.


ec are the extra sensors on the board...it has nothing to do with ai suite...beware donre people have horrible issues reading from ec sensors some have none...


----------



## PurpleChef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Vcore1 is in the ASUS EC section and I did not have to install AI Suite to get it to show up. For me it looks like this.
> 
> Methinks it can be turned on and off in HWINFO64 settings.


Got hwinfo64 now, but runing at stock speed atm. After my last overclock test (Socket 61, Core 60.6, MB 36 (20min P95 Small FFT's) 1.28V @ 4.4 my computer frooze, after the stress test! = Vcore to low?

Temps are super low at stock settings. Could prolly run 4.4 @ 1.3V or smt, right? 1.325 i read is standard Vcore for 8350 or something.

I mean i could run 4.3 @ 1.25 standard voltage


----------



## miklkit

This version of IBT AVX is the one to use and is the best when testing OCs because it is fast. Many prefer 24 hours of Prime 95 to verify the overclock is stable after 20 runs of IBT AVX on Very High. http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202

Try it and watch the "results" numbers. -1 means it is unstable and needs more vcore. +4, 6, 9 etc. means you are close but still unstable. +3 is the sweet spot with +3.88 being best. It is best to start on "Standard" as that mainly tests just the CPU. Very High also tests the ram and is best when fine tuning it. Start with 10 passes and graduate to 20 passes when you think it is ready. Good luck!


----------



## PurpleChef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> This version of IBT AVX is the one to use and is the best when testing OCs because it is fast. Many prefer 24 hours of Prime 95 to verify the overclock is stable after 20 runs of IBT AVX on Very High. http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202
> 
> Try it and watch the "results" numbers. -1 means it is unstable and needs more vcore. +4, 6, 9 etc. means you are close but still unstable. +3 is the sweet spot with +3.88 being best. It is best to start on "Standard" as that mainly tests just the CPU. Very High also tests the ram and is best when fine tuning it. Start with 10 passes and graduate to 20 passes when you think it is ready. Good luck!


The reverse flow was fail. Changed it again.

4.4 @ 1.28V Socket 62, Core 59, MB 25 ( 30 mins FFT )

Imma stay with this OC for now, until i buy a new cpu cooler. Thx for answers broes


----------



## BinaryBummer

I am looking at getting a Sabertooth r2 soon, and I am seeking info that may help a bit. Mainly is it ok to use win7 64bit with it and the AMD 8350 4.0ghz processor. I also am looking at the fact I may upgrade to Win10 if need be.
The power supply I have selected is going into my old PC...

https://secure.newegg.com/WishList/MySavedWishDetailPrint.aspx?ID=35010067


----------



## miklkit

I have used the Sabertooth with Win 7, 8.1, and 10. It is running just fine. I have also used it with the 8350 and the 8370. It is running just fine.

It is up to you to supply it with good clean power and good cool air. It will take care of the rest of it.


----------



## Jflisk

I have done 8350/Sabertooth R2 FX990 with W7 64 with no problems. The Sabertooth is the AMD go to board (owned mine for 2 yrs). I highly suggest the AMD FX9590 processor(custom water cooling needed) .I have since switched to the intel's devils canyon.


----------



## BinaryBummer

I was under the understanding that the 9590 was extremely hot and buggy with OC's. I can't budget any more then what I have already.. If anything I need to rid the drives but want something to put into the old PC. That is why i have a EVO and the 1TB HDrive. I already have the EVO 500gb in my old machine and was going to swap those this way I have a new system and my 500gb ssd and the new 1TB drive to put extra on.

So I call this my budget system. My last one i built was at 1250.00 and that burned in a fire withing months of getting it. So now I am at that area budget again. Truth is I have 1k to work with but I am over at around 200 - 300 dollars.

I don't know if my link above worked or not so I have a choice to either replace my 6 year old machine with this or buy me a guitar to replace my Schecter Blackjack or my Martin that I sold. I have a Half Stack Laney sitting not getting the deserved usage I had bought it for.
I see replacing the computer since my area is the pits for musicians. Most have serious issues or just stuck on themselves. Haa. I am old and the Computer will allow me to stay inside and not do to much when the body hurts.

Any other insight for BIOS version to use etc? What SATA 6 port? any issues with boot ups to SSD drive? ( My current system with win 10 would not cold boot to SSD) I rolled back to Win 7 for many reasons but a few was the fact I could resolve graphic issues in my favorite game and also Alt-Tab always cause issues to.
I realize I need to update the Bios before win 10 install, "should I decide to upgrade to 10".

Thanks.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> I was under the understanding that the 9590 was extremely hot and buggy with OC's. I can't budget any more then what I have already.. If anything I need to rid the drives but want something to put into the old PC. That is why i have a EVO and the 1TB HDrive. I already have the EVO 500gb in my old machine and was going to swap those this way I have a new system and my 500gb ssd and the new 1TB drive to put extra on.
> 
> So I call this my budget system. My last one i built was at 1250.00 and that burned in a fire withing months of getting it. So now I am at that area budget again. Truth is I have 1k to work with but I am over at around 200 - 300 dollars.
> 
> I don't know if my link above worked or not so I have a choice to either replace my 6 year old machine with this or buy me a guitar to replace my Schecter Blackjack or my Martin that I sold. I have a Half Stack Laney sitting not getting the deserved usage I had bought it for.
> I see replacing the computer since my area is the pits for musicians. Most have serious issues or just stuck on themselves. Haa. I am old and the Computer will allow me to stay inside and not do to much when the body hurts.
> 
> Any other insight for BIOS version to use etc? What SATA 6 port? any issues with boot ups to SSD drive? ( My current system with win 10 would not cold boot to SSD) I rolled back to Win 7 for many reasons but a few was the fact I could resolve graphic issues in my favorite game and also Alt-Tab always cause issues to.
> I realize I need to update the Bios before win 10 install, "should I decide to upgrade to 10".
> 
> Thanks.


Sorry to hear about you old system.9590 does run extremely hot at 4.7 GHZ manually tuned runs fine(some people have had no problem hitting the 5.0 GHZ mark manually tuned). But it does require custom cooling. When I had mine I used the 2501 bios it is the latest. Some people say the 2301 is better for overclocking . I never noticed a difference between the 2.


----------



## miklkit

For a budget build the 9590 is not needed nor wanted. Get an 83xx and a good twin tower air cooler and put it in a case with good air flow. Most people top out at 4.8 with a few getting to 5 like that. I topped out at 4.9 with a GD80 and made 5 with the Sabertooth.


----------



## warpuck

I agree with miklkit. I have had a had a Sabertooth and 8350. The Sabertooth died because the HD 7870 ground faulted a VR and smoked both.

A cheaper Asrock X9 is OK with a 9590. If 4.95 Ghz is OK with 8 cores. Get better audio with that X9.
OC with that board is not easy like a Sabertooth.

But would probably get the same with a 83XX on a kitty. Some of them will = or pass that 9590 with a good air cooler. The case airflow is most important. Next is power supply. Going with 10-20% more than you think will need is good. The power supply in my secondary unit has been in use for over 5 years. Currently powers a 8350 and a GTX 690.

I ran 2 r9 285s for one year and one died from the heat. The upper one ran at 70C and the lower at 55 C. Operation at those temps is supposed to be within limits.

BTW if you are in North America the 2 year warranty on a HIS card is a joke. If you live in Hong Kong. may not be problem?


----------



## Jflisk

XFX in the US for video cards. Never a warranty problem.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> XFX in the US for video cards. Never a warranty problem.


I haven't had to warranty, however I will say they were quite nice and very forthcoming with information (even had them tell me the difference between revisions on the circuitry level)


----------



## PurpleChef

Any specific driver yall running for better latency? its low, but allways lookin for the best drivers


----------



## gordesky1

guys my saber been running hot lately which i don't know why.. Motherboard temp when in games runs at 50c+.... Its been like that for couple weeks now.. were is that sensor located at on the board?

The vrms front and back has a fan like always.

For some reason i been having a good bit problems with this board... the realtek sound pretty much stop working no sound is coming out of it. and i tried asus drivers and also windows 10 drivers...

and stuff is not as stable as they once were...


----------



## miklkit

You make it sound like the board might be dying. Spring has sprung and it is warming up outside. Could that have anything to do with it?

If you have a good microscope so you can read it, the manual shows the locations of the sensors. There are 2 in the vrm area. One centered on the VRMs and one next to the 8 prong plug at the top of the board.

Outside of yours being watercooled and mine being air cooled our systems are similar. I found that my 290X was dumping a lot of heat into the CPU area and I moved it down to a lower slot, not the black slot, and this helped a lot.

Here are my temperatures after over an hour of gaming on April 6, 2016.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gordesky1*
> 
> guys my saber been running hot lately which i don't know why.. Motherboard temp when in games runs at 50c+.... Its been like that for couple weeks now.. were is that sensor located at on the board?
> 
> The vrms front and back has a fan like always.
> 
> For some reason i been having a good bit problems with this board... the realtek sound pretty much stop working no sound is coming out of it. and i tried asus drivers and also windows 10 drivers...
> 
> and stuff is not as stable as they once were...


How old is that psu? I've tripped the ocp on an 850 watt seasonic gold when pushing both the cpu and 290X so it has a pretty good load on it.


----------



## gordesky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> You make it sound like the board might be dying. Spring has sprung and it is warming up outside. Could that have anything to do with it?
> 
> If you have a good microscope so you can read it, the manual shows the locations of the sensors. There are 2 in the vrm area. One centered on the VRMs and one next to the 8 prong plug at the top of the board.
> 
> Outside of yours being watercooled and mine being air cooled our systems are similar. I found that my 290X was dumping a lot of heat into the CPU area and I moved it down to a lower slot, not the black slot, and this helped a lot.
> 
> Here are my temperatures after over an hour of gaming on April 6, 2016.


Its warming up but even last year the motherboard temps never was this high and even when its cooler like low 40s at night which we still get the temps are the same..

And yep my 290x is also in the bottom slot like yours, and yep pretty much i do think the board is on its last legs because i also have ram issues like it seems like its warp and sometimes it will detect 8gb instead of 16gb, Than to fixed this i have to pull up some on the cpu block or wiggle it around... This also does it with the stock amd heat sink. and now the realtek has no sound output.. Probably will have to get a rma but at the moment cant cause i have no backup. And doing a advance rma holds money in the bank which i cant do at the moment.. and how does that work? i mean what if they get it and the board works fine for them cause half the time it does...

Don't have a microscope.

And yep my motherboard temp was around yours. But now The highest i saw was around 55c....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> How old is that psu? I've tripped the ocp on an 850 watt seasonic gold when pushing both the cpu and 290X so it has a pretty good load on it.


Its been replaced one time in like 2years ago cause the before one which was about 5 years old my last board had burnt cpu 4pin and 24pin not sure if the board did it or the psu, few days later the vrm area got burnt and board died. The psu tested fine and ran fine but i didn't want to take the chance.

And for the pass months i mostly been running the gpu at stock speeds and been running the cpu at 4.8ghz and under currently at 4.7ghz. i used to do 5ghz and the gpu at 1180-1600 with no problems. but yea temps started to get out of control which than i notice the motherboard temp started to go up.


----------



## Mega Man

afaik it is the bottom right corner


----------



## Jaimelmiel

Hello out there. Had to sell my last sabertooth and 9590. I just got another that was a replacement for a friend. He wen the crooshair way. It was not bad for $50.00. Or maybe. I seem to be having memory problems. I have four 4Gb Cricial Ballistix modules in it but the mobo only sees 8.Windows says they are 16 there but only 8 0r so usable. They are 1600 Mhz. 999 24.I would like to know if the ram is compatible. Before I replace it and have the same problem. It does the same thing if I only use 8Gb. 4 are recognized. I have two matched sets. Help! PS cpuz says they are recognized as single channel. They were working fine I another mobo.


----------



## gordesky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaimelmiel*
> 
> Hello out there. Had to sell my last sabertooth and 9590. I just got another that was a replacement for a friend. He wen the crooshair way. It was not bad for $50.00. Or maybe. I seem to be having memory problems. I have four 4Gb Cricial Ballistix modules in it but the mobo only sees 8.Windows says they are 16 there but only 8 0r so usable. They are 1600 Mhz. 999 24.I would like to know if the ram is compatible. Before I replace it and have the same problem. It does the same thing if I only use 8Gb. 4 are recognized. I have two matched sets. Help! PS cpuz says they are recognized as single channel. They were working fine I another mobo.


Did you try 1 stick in each slot to see if it posts? I been having a good bit of memory trouble with mine which is a hardware issue, and sometimes it will see 8gb out of 16gb even tho each slot shows a stick in it on cpuz and also shows it in single channel mode..
I finally found out my issue it seems like my board is warped and to get it to see all the memory normal i have to pull up little or sideways on the cpu cooler and it sees all the memory fine.

When i tried one stick in each slot 1 and 3 had problems posting but 2 and 4 was fine when i was having trouble. So its worth a try to see if each slot posts.

Also does bios see the ram? cause when the problem started on mine it would see ony 8gb which windows also seen 8gb also but each slot showed each stick.

It could be just be memory not compatible in your case cause i herd this motherboard is very picky with brands.

Myself im kicking myself from not going the crosshair route lol.. I really don't see any memory problems with that board.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaimelmiel*
> 
> Hello out there. Had to sell my last sabertooth and 9590. I just got another that was a replacement for a friend. He wen the crooshair way. It was not bad for $50.00. Or maybe. I seem to be having memory problems. I have four 4Gb Cricial Ballistix modules in it but the mobo only sees 8.Windows says they are 16 there but only 8 0r so usable. They are 1600 Mhz. 999 24.I would like to know if the ram is compatible. Before I replace it and have the same problem. It does the same thing if I only use 8Gb. 4 are recognized. I have two matched sets. Help! PS cpuz says they are recognized as single channel. They were working fine I another mobo.


DUST>.. try blowing out the Dimms.. I have had that issue before


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> DUST>.. try blowing out the Dimms.. I have had that issue before


Ayup! Datavac to the rescue!


----------



## Jaimelmiel

Thank you for the suggestions everyone. It seems that windows is reserving Half or so of whatever memory I put on the mobo for hardware. The
mobo and os recognize whtever I put in. So for kicks I am goin to reload video drivers. then my os possibly.


----------



## miklkit

Oh, it's a windows thing. I ran into that years ago. Do you have your power plan set to "high performance"?


----------



## Jaimelmiel

no it is not.I hope it is a windows thing. but I am doing the process of elimination. I called crucial and the sabertooth should work with my ram.this was not a clean install, it was a mobo swap.I have an extra fx 6300 I am going to install right now. thanks.

crucial was right. switched processor out. same problem. bought recommended corsair ram 1866 mhz
2x8GB. Same problem. Process of elimination says Its the mobo. I had a gut feeling this was the case.
Unless you guys can think of any thing else I should check in bios.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaimelmiel*
> 
> no it is not.I hope it is a windows thing. but I am doing the process of elimination. I called crucial and the sabertooth should work with my ram.this was not a clean install, it was a mobo swap.I have an extra fx 6300 I am going to install right now. thanks.
> 
> crucial was right. switched processor out. same problem. bought recommended corsair ram 1866 mhz
> 2x8GB. Same problem. Process of elimination says Its the mobo. I had a gut feeling this was the case.
> Unless you guys can think of any thing else I should check in bios.


There is no need to do reinstall of WIndows.

I had this problem myself when i went from 8 GB 2 sticks to 16 GB 2 sticks.

Here is the solution: click on start and type msconfig in run and go to the tab boot click advanced options and you should see something like this:



Uncheck maximum memory and set max core count for your CPU at startup, you should be good to go.

You can check this by going in to system and now you should see the correct amount of memory installed.

Good luck.


----------



## Jaimelmiel

I did that and it has same problem. Bothe sets of memory I have used are recommended by asus. It is a hardware problem.the is the problem. I have made arrangements to send it back.


----------



## Mega Man

I would reinstall windows before you do anything

You say ram is seem by windows and bios.

That means the hw is doing what it needs to


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaimelmiel*
> 
> I did that and it has same problem. Bothe sets of memory I have used are recommended by asus. It is a hardware problem.the is the problem. I have made arrangements to send it back.


But did you try blowing it out.. The thing is that if there is a pin or 3 that are not connecting the BIOS will read it however will not be usable, once you boot to windows it will say that the ram exists however since the OS is unable to touch it, it then becomes as hardware reserved.


----------



## Jaimelmiel

Yes I reinstalled windows and blew out the ram slots.It was a very clean board possibly new. I have the ram running fie in my back up board now.
If they cannot fix or replace this board with a good one I am going to get a crosshair.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaimelmiel*
> 
> Yes I reinstalled windows and blew out the ram slots.It was a very clean board possibly new. I have the ram running fie in my back up board now.
> If they cannot fix or replace this board with a good one I am going to get a crosshair.


I knew it was the board, can you still go back to your retail store? From where i get my parts they replace it in the store immediately so i leave the store with a new board. I don't want repaired board i just want a new one, had an repair board once and it went bad at me even more quick than the new one..

Try to get it replaced for a new one or your money back. If i were you i wouldn't buy the crosshair, it will go bad even faster than the Sabertooth and many people had to RMA their board..

Be smart and get a nice MSI or Gigabyte board which will last you much longer for a lesser price as well, Asus boards are rather expensive compared to the competition.
Yes Gigabyte UEFI is not the best out there but it gets the job done. I had 2 Sabertooth board and all 2 boards died on me within 2 years.. luckily i still had warranty from my retail store and they gave me a new one the first time and said that this was the 5th board within 5 months that went bad.. the second time they said they no longer had the board in stock and couldn't get me a new one because they stopped selling it because of the high failure rate and Asus RMA is a nightmare to deal with..

They gave me back my money and i bought the Gigabyte 990 FX Gaming G1 and i am overall very happy with it. I even saved 20 bucks because it was cheaper than the Sabertooth so the trip to the retail store was payed as well.


----------



## Mega Man

Get the asus


----------



## hurricane28

Up to you @Jaimelmiel

If you get the crosshair i guarantee something will break down within a year.. and Asus RMA's are no fun to deal with, i am speaking out of experience myself. I had to deal with them several times and it was an total nightmare.. it takes for ever to get your component back or they simply loose it..

Had to deal with Gigabyte once and they are much better at this, i explained what happened and within a week i had a new board..

Yes Asus boards are better overclockers in general and yes the bios is much better but if you learn how to work with Gigabyte boards you are very happy and last you a long time.. I did made the mistake going for an Asus board and it was the biggest mistake i ever made in swapping components.. I mean, my retail store doesn't sell them anymore for no reason..

Good luck









I found something interesting for you to read as well: http://hexus.net/business/news/components/77061-reliability-report-gigabyte-top-motherboards-msi-graphics/


----------



## Jaimelmiel

I will consider Gigibyte if asus does not come through.Thanks.


----------



## hurricane28

Good luck dude


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaimelmiel*
> 
> Yes I reinstalled windows and blew out the ram slots.It was a very clean board possibly new. I have the ram running fie in my back up board now.
> If they cannot fix or replace this board with a good one I am going to get a crosshair.


Go into bios and reset memory clocks to stock
remove all but one stick then reboot once in windows, restart.
move the stick into the 2nd dimm then reboot, windows, restart
repeat with last few dimm slots,
once the bios is fully reset, install all dimms reboot if the problem is still there, reboot once more

fixed the issue for me several times before.


----------



## Jaimelmiel

I pretty much did that. I have two sets of recommened Memory. the board is on it's way back. Hopefully Asus will sort it all out.Thanks


----------



## gordesky1

also having issues with my
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaimelmiel*
> 
> I pretty much did that. I have two sets of recommened Memory. the board is on it's way back. Hopefully Asus will sort it all out.Thanks


let me know how it goes and how long it took to get the board back. Have to send mine in soon because of memory issues... So far its been working but if i even bump the cpu cooler or even remove it to put thermal paste on it, 8gb of ram will ony detect till i mess with the cpu cooler like pulling it up some to get full memory to be detected...


----------



## Jaimelmiel

I will let you know. That is how long it takes to get the mobo back,


----------



## Anders333

Hello all! I have some problem with motherboard temperature.
I want to buy MVR-100 Water Block for MB VReq. Is that good for me? If yes, is it compatible with Tubing, 1ft (305mm) Clear UV-Reactive PVC, 13mm x 16mm (1/2in x 5/8in)? Sorry for that stupid questions and thx for help.


----------



## Jaimelmiel

Just got a new board from asus. It came in an original box with all the normal accessories. I am putting it in a whole new Build. It took three weeks.
Lets hope this is a good one.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anders333*
> 
> Hello all! I have some problem with motherboard temperature.
> I want to buy MVR-100 Water Block for MB VReq. Is that good for me? If yes, is it compatible with Tubing, 1ft (305mm) Clear UV-Reactive PVC, 13mm x 16mm (1/2in x 5/8in)? Sorry for that stupid questions and thx for help.


Here is a guide.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1468642/how-to-watercool-the-asus-990fx-sabertooth-rev2-0-vrms-and-nb
Here is some images of mine.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Mastiffman

Hey Gang!

Been a while since this board came out but I purchased it as well as an FX-8320e and have it water cooled in a Silverstone case. No issues so far. Ran P95 on small FFT's the other day for over 3 hours @ 4.4ghz @ 1.2625v... But the CPUv while running prime raises from that to around 1.305v or so. Any way to stabilize this voltage?

I'm coming from an MSI 790FX-GD70 so the labels are a bit different in some of the voltages.

Thanks. Looking forward to finding the "AMD Sweet Spot" on this setup... The old AMD Sweet Spot on the AM3 was 3.8hz with a 2.6ghz Northbirdge and 1600mhz Ram Cas 7...

Andrew C.


----------



## miklkit

Just to clarify, it runs at 1.2625 volts normally and when stress testing it rises to 1.305 volts? That sounds like an LLC or Load Line Calibration issue. MSI does not use LLC.

The Sabertooth bios is quite detailed so the learning curve is steep, but once you understand the thing it works well. Here is a pic of the page you want for now. All of the settings can be used by you as they are mostly generic except for the LLC settings. You most likely have them all set to "auto" now.


Anyway, play with the LLC until you find your sweet spot. Remember that higher LLC also results in higher temperatures so there is a trade off there.


----------



## Mastiffman

Very nice! This is what I was looking for... yes, high voltage equals higher temps. I'm aware of that as well as higher frequencies equates higher temps also. I have 120mm x 240mm Radiator with 2 120mm x 35mm 3000 Rpm Scythe fans. Always welcome the reminders though at this point. it's been about 4 years+ since I've even attempted to overclock this computer or any other.

Question, are you using the BIOS or some of the software that came with the board contents?

I'm old school so went right into the BIOS and didn't even bother pulling the disk from it's sleeve yet. one thing I liked about the MSI BIOS was the explanation for all of the settings. Didn't see much of that in the Asus BIOS. Is this only in the Software version of the BIOS that can be ran from Windows?

Thanks.


----------



## miklkit

I use HWINFO64 to monitor temperatures and voltages. The only ASUS software I know of is their AI suite which can be buggy with things like mouse lag. HWINFO64 does however report things from it called ASUS EC. The extra readings can be useful as they show things like VRM temperatures.

But all overclocking is done in the bios. That pic was taken directly from the bios as there is a way to do that there.


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mastiffman*
> 
> Hey Gang!
> 
> Been a while since this board came out but I purchased it as well as an FX-8320e and have it water cooled in a Silverstone case. No issues so far. Ran P95 on small FFT's the other day for over 3 hours @ 4.4ghz @ 1.2625v... But the CPUv while running prime raises from that to around 1.305v or so. Any way to stabilize this voltage?
> 
> I'm coming from an MSI 790FX-GD70 so the labels are a bit different in some of the voltages.
> 
> Thanks. Looking forward to finding the "AMD Sweet Spot" on this setup... The old AMD Sweet Spot on the AM3 was 3.8hz with a 2.6ghz Northbirdge and 1600mhz Ram Cas 7...
> 
> Andrew C.


You need to clarify what the Voltage is set in the BIOS. The Voltage reading in the BIOS or HWINFO or such. Are your numbers above under load (Vdroop)?

Although, as of late, HWINFO has been crashing my system...

For the 8320e, the sweet spot, for me, was 4.5 GHz... more than that and you need to start really turning up the voltage.

Is it just me or does the system seem a bit "snappier" with Extreme/ Full CPU Phase control instead of Optimized?


----------



## Mega Man

I only use that setting so idk.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mastiffman*
> 
> Very nice! This is what I was looking for... yes, high voltage equals higher temps. I'm aware of that as well as higher frequencies equates higher temps also. I have 120mm x 240mm Radiator with 2 120mm x 35mm 3000 Rpm Scythe fans. Always welcome the reminders though at this point. it's been about 4 years+ since I've even attempted to overclock this computer or any other.
> 
> Question, are you using the BIOS or some of the software that came with the board contents?
> 
> I'm old school so went right into the BIOS and didn't even bother pulling the disk from it's sleeve yet. one thing I liked about the MSI BIOS was the explanation for all of the settings. Didn't see much of that in the Asus BIOS. Is this only in the Software version of the BIOS that can be ran from Windows?
> 
> Thanks.


From experience 240 and a 120 rad won't get you very far without going deaf.


----------



## SwishaMane

IDK if anyone here has seen my thread on my loss of my Sabertooth rev 1.01 last night. I poppe din my new RX 480 yesterday, and the board has failed to POST. Its boiling down to water possibly slipping past my observation while swapping the w/c gtx 580 for the air cooled RX 480. What do you guys make out of these symptoms...

On power, the board runs. All system fans spin, except GPU. CPULED stays on, VGA LED and DRAM LED are off. MEMOK will flash LED, but the system is not actually doing anything. On power up, the system seems to go directly into infinite limbo. All PSU cables have been gone over for possible disconnect or loose, but all is ok. Measuring 12v on rails at connector to mobo.

I believe the very first component to initialize is the CPU, and I think that's what might be wrong with the board, circuitry related to the CPU, (not the CPU itself) is popped.

Does ANYONE have a working 990FX sabertooth they can let go of?

CPU test incoming this weekend from a friends machine, will test RAM too just for diligence. PSU should be 100% perfect.


----------



## miklkit

That sounds like a CPU related problem with either it or the board circuits going bad.

I have a Sabertooth that ran fine, I damaged it and the memory light came on, took it to an electronics repair shop where they fixed it, tested it and it seemed ok, and then put it back in the box as a spare. Shipping to Indiana would probably cost $40 or more so it would be a bad deal for you.


----------



## Mega Man

sucks sorry


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> IDK if anyone here has seen my thread on my loss of my Sabertooth rev 1.01 last night. I poppe din my new RX 480 yesterday, and the board has failed to POST. Its boiling down to water possibly slipping past my observation while swapping the w/c gtx 580 for the air cooled RX 480. What do you guys make out of these symptoms...
> 
> On power, the board runs. All system fans spin, except GPU. CPULED stays on, VGA LED and DRAM LED are off. MEMOK will flash LED, but the system is not actually doing anything. On power up, the system seems to go directly into infinite limbo. All PSU cables have been gone over for possible disconnect or loose, but all is ok. Measuring 12v on rails at connector to mobo.
> 
> I believe the very first component to initialize is the CPU, and I think that's what might be wrong with the board, circuitry related to the CPU, (not the CPU itself) is popped.
> 
> Does ANYONE have a working 990FX sabertooth they can let go of?
> 
> CPU test incoming this weekend from a friends machine, will test RAM too just for diligence. PSU should be 100% perfect.


Tested it again with the old gpu back in?


----------



## SwishaMane

No, board is completely un-responsive. She has passed away. Only activity that can be observed is the fact it turns on, and fans spin. CPU LED just stays on. MEMOK will flash, but nothing is happeneing... This is with a GPU present or not present. She can't initialize the CPU or NB or something... Im thinking water dmg to the NB, based on where i was hearing a hissing sound. Water maybe dripped on board, and ran under NB heatsink, making it impossible to detect under normal conditions.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> No, board is completely un-responsive. She has passed away. Only activity that can be observed is the fact it turns on, and fans spin. CPU LED just stays on. MEMOK will flash, but nothing is happeneing... This is with a GPU present or not present. She can't initialize the CPU or NB or something... Im thinking water dmg to the NB, based on where i was hearing a hissing sound. Water maybe dripped on board, and ran under NB heatsink, making it impossible to detect under normal conditions.


I always keep a close eye on the tubing etc just to make sure no water goes anywhere, I did once drip some onto my board but it was powered off luckily as I was doing my loop again, some went behind my motherboard so had to completely strip it down and wipe it down with a bit of kitchen towel. Really sad to hear of your loss, these boards are mega hard to kill but water is a formidable opponent.


----------



## Mastiffman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> From experience 240 and a 120 rad won't get you very far without going deaf.


Nah, I have it laying horizontally att he bottom of my Silverstone case which has 3 200mm fans suck cool air in from underneath (with dust screens as well) and then 2 120mmx 30mm cythe fan's that only run at 1500rpm all inside the case with a top fan blowing out hot air... Run quite cool. Operating temp at 4.4ghz @ 1.285v 29*31 degrees C. Max Prime 95 temps are 50 or so...


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I always keep a close eye on the tubing etc just to make sure no water goes anywhere, I did once drip some onto my board but it was powered off luckily as I was doing my loop again, some went behind my motherboard so had to completely strip it down and wipe it down with a bit of kitchen towel. Really sad to hear of your loss, these boards are mega hard to kill but water is a formidable opponent.


With the death of my board, I have, basically stripped my entire machine down, and re-did a questionable part of my loop. (had a tube bend that was a little tighter than the tube could handle and it buckled, so reduced flow) I plan to go air cooling with a new case sometime soon (couple months). I also ran the loop for a reasonable time to get bubbles out, and I'm not observing any leaks. Like I said, the death of my board was from swapping the w/c GPU with an air cooled one. So the loop had to be broken into, which caused a small drip to fall where I couldn't see it.

Sorry fellow ASUS Sabertooth owners, but I had to save a few bones on a new mobo, and went with a Gigabyte UD3 this time. Compare both boards used to used, and I saved about $40, which is REALLY needed right now. Plus the army camo green color scheme was just puke. This Gigabyte is gorgeous all black and gun metal / grey. Beauty, and I've never run a Giga board, so we'll see. Just need a solid performer, not much OC'ing needed.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mastiffman*
> 
> Nah, I have it laying horizontally att he bottom of my Silverstone case which has 3 200mm fans suck cool air in from underneath (with dust screens as well) and then 2 120mmx 30mm cythe fan's that only run at 1500rpm all inside the case with a top fan blowing out hot air... Run quite cool. Operating temp at 4.4ghz @ 1.285v 29*31 degrees C. Max Prime 95 temps are 50 or so...


I assumed you would be pushing it to 1.5v+ for 5ghz, my mistake.


----------



## Mastiffman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I assumed you would be pushing it to 1.5v+ for 5ghz, my mistake.


It can handle it for sure. I've used the same Rad for a 125w Phenom II @ 4.1 with that high of volts and it did very well. it's all about the right contact time inside the Rad that counts. If the water moves to fast it won't transfer the heat to the metal fast enough and will stay to warm in general. I use speedfan to monitor temps and control the fans based off of temps. Which keeps the computer nice and quiet while at idle but speeds up fans for maximum heat dissipation when needed.


----------



## PurpleChef

Whats your bios settings for optimal gaming?


----------



## Mastiffman

Hey there,
Me myself, I haven't don't a whole lot of testing on this setup yet. Just a hair of overclocking. Since getting the board and CPU installed and setup, I just had to much to do instead. I've also moved more towards console gaming for a few years but would like to get back into some PC gaming. Always found that to be pretty fun as well.

SO at this point I can't really help out much. Also the settings per system will vary a bit based off GFX Card, CPU, RAM and overclock. Otherwise just running the system at stock rated speeds for the CPU, ram and having a good GFX card should be just fine for most games these days.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurpleChef*
> 
> Whats your bios settings for optimal gaming?


Depends on you cooling solutions, my rig is fully under water so all my volts and clocks are pretty high.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mastiffman*
> 
> It can handle it for sure. I've used the same Rad for a 125w Phenom II @ 4.1 with that high of volts and it did very well. it's all about the right contact time inside the Rad that counts. *If the water moves to fast it won't transfer the heat to the metal fast enough and will stay to warm in general.* I use speedfan to monitor temps and control the fans based off of temps. Which keeps the computer nice and quiet while at idle but speeds up fans for maximum heat dissipation when needed.


First time to hear this. Which is kind of thebopposite as what many have been practicing.

Flow, (the speed water moves in an entity) actually improves cooling. But the effect diminishes after a certain point. The faster the water moves, the faster it takes away heat from the block. And results to better cooling.

But regardless, it doesn't really offer too much difference in a loop. Especially for big loops.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurpleChef*
> 
> Whats your bios settings for optimal gaming?


Clock the CPU as high as you can within your cooling power. The work on getting the RAM sett-up with a good speed and timings.

2133 9-11-9-27-1T or 1866 9-9-9-27-1T would be hoot for these chips.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

What the f*** ??


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> What the f*** ??


OOOOOH Sexy! Too bad it's too late tbh. The most disappointing thing for me and the FX range is the lack of motherboard support that pretty much crippled the FX range.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

4 less SATA ports
More lights (pci-e lights)
M.2 connector
More USB 3 ports
Plastic cover over vrm heat sink
...

meh


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> 4 less SATA ports
> More lights (pci-e lights)
> M.2 connector
> More USB 3 ports
> Plastic cover over vrm heat sink
> ...
> 
> meh


The plastic cover has a fan cover on it and from the back looks like it has the very same thermal armour intel has had for several generations. My gf's Z170 board has a fan that blows air onto the vrm at certain temps.


----------



## Jflisk

I have the intel Z97 Mark 1 and it has the thermal armor and The fans. Pretty cool


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I have the intel Z97 Mark 1 and it has the thermal armor and The fans. Pretty cool - If any one needs a FX990 Sabertooth let me know I have one for 100.00 Shipped the PCI-E holders are broke but will still hold a video card. I think its okay to mention the board for sale here. I have enough Rep to sell. Thanks


It isn't you'll get a warning shortly, they're mega strict on it.


----------



## Heuchler

Sabertooth 990FX R3.0 with Aura RGB lighting
http://www.asus.com/US/Motherboards/TUF-SABERTOOTH-990FX-R3-0/overview/



USB 3.1 onboard - three Type-A port plus a reversible Type-C port
Intel I211 Gigabit LAN

AMD SB950 controller : 5 x SATA 6Gb/s port(s) (4 internal and 1 external on the I/o panel(?)
1 x M.2 Socket 3, gray, with M Key, type 2242/2260/2280/22110 storage devices support (both SATA & PCIE mode)

Asus Q Shield armor "reductions of up to 11°C with sold separatly 40mm fans"

 

If only my Rev 1.01 would get a BIOS update.


----------



## umeng2002

For what purpose ASUS?

Zen will be here in less than 6 months?

I do like the fan for the voltage regulation section.


----------



## Cartel

Total waste of time....my rev1.01 is gonna stay right where it is.

PCIe 2.0 x16 seriously??? PCI Express 3.0 was made available in November 2010, wake up.

No firewire? I use mine.

No PCI slot? Not getting rid of my claro+

USB 3.1? Great but I still dont use 3.0

5000 hour caps? I have a CB radio with better caps than that

M2 drive slot? ASUS HYPER M.2 X4 ACCESSORY $18

This board is a slap in the face for AMD users that have been waiting for the 1090fx that never came



Another thing that bugs me is AM3 absolutely sucks at single core tasks.
The budget APU's make it look stupid, Intel just crushes it.

A $67 Athlon(tm) X4 845 beats every 8 core "enthusiast" "high performance" cpu.

My 1090 has trouble playing single core games like gta 3, vc, sa.
My Barton had no issues....

AMD makes me feel like I'm sitting in the USS Liberty


----------



## mus1mus

WTHDIJR!

Make some valid judgement before posting please.

1. PCIE 3.0 will never be offered by/in a 990FX Chipset.

2. No Firewire.

3. No PCI.

Just because you need one doesn't account for what everyone needs. See the next item:

4. USB 3.1..
You are bashing it for having one that will not be meaningful to you yet, see number 3.
Wake up!

5. 5K caps. And your CB has what?

6. M.2 slot.
I'd prefer on-board solutions all the time for obvious reasons.

7. Who said 1090FX will come in?

8. APU has a place. 8- Cores too.
APU will be crushing it in single threads, true. What about multithreaded apps?

9. Vice City? Is It still 2003? Or I am living in the future?
Wake up!

10. Bringing Passmark Database here? Seriously?


----------



## Mega Man

agreed. PCI and firewire needed to die like 10 years ago.

hdmi and dvi is the new firewire ... both need to die

pcie 3 ... on 990fx? how ? how can you support something that is not supported?

they did it with the r2 3.0 and it failed.

and that as with plx chips, not real native pcie3.0.

all i can say in introll anyone ?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cartel*
> 
> Total waste of time....my rev1.01 is gonna stay right where it is.
> 
> PCIe 2.0 x16 seriously??? PCI Express 3.0 was made available in November 2010, wake up.
> 
> No firewire? I use mine.
> 
> No PCI slot? Not getting rid of my claro+
> 
> USB 3.1? Great but I still dont use 3.0
> 
> 5000 hour caps? I have a CB radio with better caps than that
> 
> M2 drive slot? ASUS HYPER M.2 X4 ACCESSORY $18
> 
> This board is a slap in the face for AMD users that have been waiting for the 1090fx that never came
> 
> 
> 
> Another thing that bugs me is AM3 absolutely sucks at single core tasks.
> The budget APU's make it look stupid, Intel just crushes it.
> 
> A $67 Athlon(tm) X4 845 beats every 8 core "enthusiast" "high performance" cpu.
> 
> My 1090 has trouble playing single core games like gta 3, vc, sa.
> My Barton had no issues....
> 
> AMD makes me feel like I'm sitting in the USS Liberty


1. Pcie 2.0 is perfectly fine it wont bottleneck you in the least even with intel and high end card/cards....3.0 is limites to x8 which isnt showing much improvement over 2.0

2.) Firewire was always over priced

3.)pci slots werent even good when they were mainstream

4.)if you arent using 3.0 its you that is missing out...faster charging...faster speeds...silly you

5.)how long do you plan to keep this motherboard...5k caps can last mich longer than 5k hours...just because something is rated doesnt mean it wont exceed that threshhold by a large amount we prove that everyday with our overclocks

6.) M.2 requires less overhead than the card you provided the link to....also takes away from your pcie lanes AND is slower...brilliant

7.)i wish in one hand but the other still fills faster....

8.)you should buy yourself an apu then?

9.)gotta have something that runs like ass on an amd processor otherwise it isnt fair lol

10.)this would be like me throwing marketing materials at you and calling you a liar when you show contrary proof


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cartel*
> 
> Total waste of time....my rev1.01 is gonna stay right where it is.
> 
> 5000 hour caps? I have a CB radio with better caps than that


5000h caps, are rated at 105C. This doesn't mean that in reality they will live only 5000h. Most likely they will live somewhere in between 6 years and over 20. See here explanation:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club/61300#post_25352346

Techically, if you run the PC 24/7 and the caps stay at 85C all the time (which is a very unhealthy temperature, improbable to find it in any case with half-decent ventilation), the cap will live 5.7 years.


----------



## mus1mus

GTA Vice City and San Andreas weren't even an issue on my very first computer running a Socket A Sempron at 2.4GHz and an AGP Gefore MX4000 256MB.

:thingking:


----------



## umeng2002

The only thing I see wrong with it assuming they get the whole PCIe 3.0 thing sorted is that the platform is dead.


----------



## hurricane28

Its end of life yes. Then again, 990FX chipset doesn't support PCIe 3.0..


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Its end of life yes. Then again, 990FX chipset doesn't support PCIe 3.0..


You're missing, at most, 2 fps.


----------



## mus1mus

In some cases, 2 fps.


----------



## Bun-ny

Heads up Guys, New Win 10 drivers on the ASUS website ............ USB 3, Audio, And Lan.

Steve


----------



## umeng2002

OMG they actually acknowledge that Rev 1 exists


----------



## Mastiffman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> First time to hear this. Which is kind of thebopposite as what many have been practicing.
> 
> Flow, (the speed water moves in an entity) actually improves cooling. But the effect diminishes after a certain point. The faster the water moves, the faster it takes away heat from the block. And results to better cooling.
> 
> But regardless, it doesn't really offer too much difference in a loop. Especially for big loops.
> Clock the CPU as high as you can within your cooling power. The work on getting the RAM sett-up with a good speed and timings.
> 
> 2133 9-11-9-27-1T or 1866 9-9-9-27-1T would be hoot for these chips.


I understand the concept of what you're saying and that everyone does but there are a few factors that can result in differences... Size of the cooling block, flow through it, size of tubes used for water transport, size of the radiator and air flow over it, not to mention ambient temps.

I was speaking more in terms of the contact time of the water through the radiator veins. One thing that should be kept in mind is that at higher velocities, water will get turbulent and will become layered and ultimately cause lower heat transfer as the layers will cause insulation disabling the heat transfer. So contact time in the radiator also has it's bare minimum before the airflow and potential heat transfer is being wasted on already cool water.


----------



## umeng2002

As long as the flow doesn't cavitate from severe turbulence, increasing the liquid velocity always helps heat transfer. But with current block designs... squared off fin edges... it will cavitate.

In non-cavitating flow, turbulence is desired for improving heat transfer.

Fluid flow over a surface is always layered... but as long as there isn't a cavitation layer... i.e. the boundary layer isn't so turbulent that cavitation forms there, again, increasing fluid speed is desired.

But, as pointed out, too fast and it will cavitate... it really depends on the design of the water block.


----------



## mus1mus

The thing is, there will be a diminishing return in performance with liquid velocity. It's not that a fast moving water inside the channels (both block and radiator) will create higher temps, but just stagnate the water temps to a certain point.

I don't think you can actually see this happen with less than 3 D5s at full speed.

PS, rads with big tube channels will not really benefit with higher flow IMO. I have GTX rads that need some serious pumping power due to the channels being around half the surface area of some thicker rads.







.


----------



## cssorkinman

My advice - don't go about a liquid velocity of 792 feet per minute.


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> The thing is, there will be a diminishing return in performance with liquid velocity. It's not that a fast moving water inside the channels (both block and radiator) will create higher temps, but just stagnate the water temps to a certain point.
> 
> I don't think you can actually see this happen with less than 3 D5s at full speed.
> 
> PS, rads with big tube channels will not really benefit with higher flow IMO. I have GTX rads that need some serious pumping power due to the channels being around half the surface area of some thicker rads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yeah true. A lot of that too has to do with the material of the water block.

No matter how fast the water is, Al or say Cu can only eject heat so fast.


----------



## Mega Man

shhh

you guys dont get it, "common ocn sense"

1 d5 onry no ddc.
tubing size is pointless above say 1/4"
pumps dont help, at all, above 1gpm

it isnt heat rejection. it is cooling. you are cooling the chip, duh, what does heat rejection have to do with it


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> shhh
> 
> you guys dont get it, "common ocn sense"
> 
> 1 d5 onry no ddc.
> tubing size is pointless above say 1/4"
> pumps dont help, at all, above 1gpm
> 
> it isnt heat rejection. it is cooling. you are cooling the chip, duh, what does heat rejection have to do with it


Heat goes into the water block from the CPU. Heat exits (ejects) the water block into the water. Ignoring the geometry of the block and the surface finish, the material has a set thermal conductivity. You might never get there in practice, but for example, with the same geometry, a cement water block would be horrible to an metal one. The heats "ejects" from the cement block at a horrendous rate compared to a metal block.


----------



## Mega Man

Yes I know what heat rejection is. I was being sarcastic.


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes I know what heat rejection is. I was being sarcastic.


My hope for humanity increased a bit...


----------



## mirzet1976

Hi guys, my sabertooth wont go past Hdd boot, i have disconnected all cables of hdd from mbo but is same, clear cmos.
Wath I have seen wenn I updated to new bios is that my boot was bit slower wenn it is at hdd boot.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mirzet1976*
> 
> Hi guys, my sabertooth wont go past Hdd boot, i have disconnected all cables of hdd from mbo but is same, clear cmos.
> Wath I have seen wenn I updated to new bios is that my boot was bit slower wenn it is at hdd boot.


Try this:

Turn it off and unplug it from the wall. Then pull out or remove all memory modules and the bios battery. Wait for about 5 mins and then put the battery and memory back. Test loading defaults at BIOS.


----------



## Mega Man

Really. No need.

Are you sure your hdd is alive?


----------



## mirzet1976

Wath all tree are dead at same time, two of them are with OS


----------



## mus1mus

Reinstall the last BIOS if possible. Something might be wrong with the latest one.

AHCI Mode too.


----------



## mirzet1976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Reinstall the last BIOS if possible. Something might be wrong with the latest one.
> 
> AHCI Mode too.


Need to try this its my last hope old bios 2015


----------



## Mega Man

Once done I would verify booting path. And then check hdd to see if it is dead.

If you don't have a way to check try booting to a Linux usb


----------



## mirzet1976

OK, yesterday I was pulled out of RAM modules and battery from the motherboard and power supply disconnected from the system board and disconnected hard drive and after 10 minutes merged all back again the same Impassable HDD boot. Again all uncouple and leave so until now and just now tried to turn on the PC and has started functioning. After this successful boot the system first thing I did was I went back earlier version of BIOS 2501


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mirzet1976*
> 
> OK, yesterday I was pulled out of RAM modules and battery from the motherboard and power supply disconnected from the system board and disconnected hard drive and after 10 minutes merged all back again the same Impassable HDD boot. Again all uncouple and leave so until now and just now tried to turn on the PC and has started functioning. After this successful boot the system first thing I did was I went back earlier version of BIOS 2501


when you say impassible what do you mean? Are you getting a message and then it loops the boot or what? I would run disk health checks and the like to help rule it out


----------



## mirzet1976

This, boot is stuck with HDD as seen in the pictures above, but they were disconnected from the motherboard.


----------



## Mega Man

I am glad it worked. But I would check the smart data and verify the HD is alive. If it fails get your data off quick!


----------



## Ne01 OnnA

So im in the CLUB








Now in near future -> ZEN AM4+ on Sabertooth also + 32BG DDR4


----------



## umeng2002

Companies have a tendency to run a brand into the ground.

People know brand based on reputation, then a company cheaps out on that brand to make money.

So I'd wait for AM4 Sabertooth reviews before getting my sights set on it... if there even is one.


----------



## mus1mus

Where did that sentiment come from?


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Where did that sentiment come from?


probably from experience lol... so far though ASUS has made the Saberkitty quite well... not to mention their other boards.... I've had several over the years... not one failed yet.


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Where did that sentiment come from?


Look at what other board manufacturers do with progressive revisions of the "same" model.

But it's also a popular business tactic.

Ask yourself why so many foreign companies own previously famous American brands like Westinghouse, RCA, etc.

People only go for the name in a lot of instances, businesses can capitalize on that by stamping a famous name on junk.

The lesson is to research what is out there.

I hope Asus continues the Sabertooth line for AM4 without making reductions in quality.


----------



## mus1mus

Have you seen how Sabertooths perform on X99, Z170, and Z97s?


----------



## Benjiw

my current gf has a z170, I'm also going to use a z170 soon its a good board just like the 990fx sabertooth R1 I have...


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Have you seen how Sabertooths perform on X99, Z170, and Z97s?


Yes and they look better than AMD counterpart.

All I'm saying is that it's not a forgone conclusion that Asus won't make some questionable design decisions with an AM4 Sabertooth.

Frankly, an AM4 Sabertooth would be the first mobo I look at for a Zen PC; but I'll still read the reviews on it before buying it.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Yes and they look better than AMD counterpart.
> 
> All I'm saying is that it's not a forgone conclusion that Asus won't make some questionable design decisions with an AM4 Sabertooth.
> 
> Frankly, an AM4 Sabertooth would be the first mobo I look at for a Zen PC; but I'll still read the reviews on it before buying it.


Not sure, this looks pretty cool tbh...


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Yes and they look better than AMD counterpart.
> 
> All I'm saying is that it's not a forgone conclusion that Asus won't make some questionable design decisions with an AM4 Sabertooth.
> 
> Frankly, an AM4 Sabertooth would be the first mobo I look at for a Zen PC; but I'll still read the reviews on it before buying it.


Stop speculating this early. You are only making your self paranoid. Paranoia is a beatch ya know.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Stop speculating this early. You are only making your self paranoid. Paranoia is a beatch ya know.


My favourite thing is they FINALLY! FINALLY! added the VRM cooling fan from the intels that don't need it to the 990fx board. Too bad it's too late also I wouldn't use it, too loud.









I'm such a watercooling whore.


----------



## Elrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Yes and they look better than AMD counterpart.
> 
> All I'm saying is that it's not a forgone conclusion that Asus won't make some questionable design decisions with an AM4 Sabertooth.
> 
> Frankly, an AM4 Sabertooth would be the first mobo I look at for a Zen PC; but I'll still read the reviews on it before buying it.
> 
> 
> 
> Stop speculating this early. You are only making your self paranoid. Paranoia is a beatch ya know.
Click to expand...

It's a well known OCN affliction that effects nearly everyone here







.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> My favourite thing is they FINALLY! FINALLY! added the VRM cooling fan from the intels that don't need it to the 990fx board. Too bad it's too late also I wouldn't use it, too loud.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm such a watercooling whore.










It's too late! Stop salivating your self as well.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elrick*
> 
> It's a well known OCN affliction that effects nearly everyone here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Well, in the topic above, it's unprecedented. Not like speculating rumors.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Not sure, this looks pretty cool tbh...


Trust me, its IS cool. Its also running like a champ. Its almost embarrassing towards Gigabyte how well this board runs, there is just no comparison on any level between the Gigabyte G1 Gaming and the Sabertooth R3.0.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Not sure, this looks pretty cool tbh...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> My favourite thing is they FINALLY! FINALLY! added the VRM cooling fan from the intels that don't need it to the 990fx board. Too bad it's too late also I wouldn't use it, too loud.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm such a watercooling whore.


There is an option yes but there is no fan included unfortunately. I am thinking of buying an 40mm fan for the vrm's but i am not sure if they will deliver the amount of cooling needed for them. When i read their specs, they are not that loud tbh, Noctua and Noiseblocker make the best 40mm fans and are not rated above 20db which is almost inaudible.


----------



## Mega Man

1 the gigabyte boards are fine for what they are, budget boards. As I and others have said. Budget components = budget results. Even if your audio connector failed. Failures can and do happen. Not all boards you returned have failed ( again look at the sabertooth 2.0, you returned it because you didn't LIKE what happened when you tried to access a sensor board using a different program then the asus one. And "you didn't like the board layout" and you wanted m.2.

2 you run any and all boards out of manufacture spec.

3 you run a budget board ( the ud3 and ud5 are budget boards ) and budget cooling (h100/h100i/gtx/gti/ect/w.e. is at most a big Air cooler and again a budget component) and try to get extreme results. 4.8 is a heavy oc and should not be attempted on budget boards or budget components.

4 you void any and all warranty when you oc as per any and all warranty documents I have seen. Maybe it's different there but I doubt it.

Please stop blaming the hardware.

The hardware is fine. The bios have issues that you can work with without issue ( i don't have any issues )

Does any of this stop anyone from getting heavy OC's. No. And that is ok

But they mostly don't blame the product when it does fail


----------



## Benjiw

H100i is budget cooling, budget watercooling in one package. Anyway I wish both of you would stop going tit for tat.


----------



## c0V3Ro

Just tried latest BIOS from asus site hoping it'd be better for overclocking, instead got some issues like SSD not avaiable to boot and F10 freezing the bios.
Had to flash back to previous one.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0V3Ro*
> 
> Just tried latest BIOS from asus site hoping it'd be better for overclocking, instead got some issues like SSD not avaiable to boot and F10 freezing the bios.
> Had to flash back to previous one.


Uh ohh. I was getting close to trying that bios meself. Has anyone else tried it?


----------



## mirzet1976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Uh ohh. I was getting close to trying that bios meself. Has anyone else tried it?


I have, bios block in an attempt to boot from HDD and does not go further http://www.overclock.net/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-amd-owners-club/9360#post_25455812


----------



## PurpleChef

SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 BIOS 2901
Improve system stability

Improve system stability, how?

worth upgrading?
_
Realtek Audio
Audio: REALTEK HM_TUF V6.0.1.7848_
W10 only? ( it isn't listed under 8.1 drivers, but some drivers in W10 section is for 7/8/10 )


----------



## Vrbaa

No problems here with new 2901 Bios. Tomorrow I will try how much we can go with overclock.


----------



## Mega Man

Most, not all bios change minor settings ( the "auto" stuff )


----------



## tashcz

Anyone actually using the R3.0?


----------



## BinaryBummer

I just got my R3.0 up running tonight


----------



## tashcz

Any results, could you compare it to the R2.0? Better or worse?


----------



## BinaryBummer

Not at this time.. I just ordered this board and CPU with Wraith cooler.. I haven't been up to snuff on boards and stuff for years.

Sorry, not much help yet.


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> Not at this time.. I just ordered this board and CPU with Wraith cooler.. I haven't been up to snuff on boards and stuff for years.
> 
> Sorry, not much help yet.


Which CPU did you get along with it?

I'd like to know how it handles 8 cores and 4.7GHz.


----------



## Mega Man

I'll help you, it will, period


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Which CPU did you get along with it?
> 
> I'd like to know how it handles 8 cores and 4.7GHz.


I got the 8570 with the Wraith Cooler, budget wise I done this so I can get up and running but not skimp on a few other items that was needed.




Windows shows it at 4.34Ghz at the moment.
Seems i have some tweaking to do on the ram too.


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Anyone actually using the R3.0?


i am using it to help hold my desk down at the moment









just too many projects i need to finish


----------



## miklkit

That Wraith is looking pretty good right now. It's running turbo and overvolted of course with everything on auto.

Here is my 8370 on an R2 with turbo off and some other tweaks at 4.3. Note that it is only 2C cooler.


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> i am using it to help hold my desk down at the moment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just too many projects i need to finish


Is there a chance you take a photo of the VRM area and unscrew the part where the fan goes, I'm really interested to see how it looks?

Thanks!


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Is there a chance you take a photo of the VRM area and unscrew the part where the fan goes, I'm really interested to see how it looks?
> 
> Thanks!


its just two screws and the top plate thing comes off. fairly simple.


----------



## Mika75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurpleChef*
> 
> SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 BIOS 2901
> Improve system stability
> 
> Improve system stability, how?
> 
> worth upgrading?


My printer icon in devices & printers would be greyed out/offline and I'd have to pull the cable everytime to try re-connect, reinstalled drivers many times, thought the printer was the issue (even changed the cable)

Well since the 2016/08/02 USB driver it's been rock solid, printer has not lost connection since.


----------



## miklkit

I installed the 2901 bios last night and outside of it resetting the bios to stock all went well. I used a saved OC profile to get back up to speed and have not noticed any differences yet. I have not tried the printer yet but it has always worked before.


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> its just two screws and the top plate thing comes off. fairly simple.


I'm worried about the heatsink, it seems smaller than the one on R2. Hope the fan can compromise the performance. I'm thinking of adding a 38mm thick delta there.

By the way, which one would you guys for go now? CHVZ or the R3.0?


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> I'm worried about the heatsink, it seems smaller than the one on R2. Hope the fan can compromise the performance. I'm thinking of adding a 38mm thick delta there.
> 
> By the way, which one would you guys for go now? CHVZ or the R3.0?


I should have done that a bit ago. I had the PC broke down adding another SSD and doing the wiring up better.

Let me see if I can shutdown and grab a shot of it..

Update:

Here is some shots of it..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> its just two screws and the top plate thing comes off. fairly simple.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm worried about the heatsink, it seems smaller than the one on R2. Hope the fan can compromise the performance. I'm thinking of adding a 38mm thick delta there.
> 
> By the way, which one would you guys for go now? CHVZ or the R3.0?
Click to expand...

Will you use the added features of the Sabertooth? Do you prefer red? Really it is up to you.


----------



## mus1mus

I'd go with either. Granting, you can live with those out of place colored DIMM slots on the kitty! You cannot find a harder board to keep the color coordination in place!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I'd go with either. Granting, you can live with those out of place colored DIMM slots on the kitty! You cannot find a harder board to keep the color coordination in place!


You never see those mismatched color DIMM slots because they are covered by the RAM, so don't you dare bashing on my kittyboard









CHVZ is more expensive with less features as well which makes the choice even easier for me.


----------



## BinaryBummer

I only care at this point the board and all functions properly. So far so good. I don't really knw if a Thick fan will fit in there but you can try.

I can say with the x4 sticks on memory you can see it is tight as a crabs buttocks!


----------



## Korennya

Anyone tried running Win10 as a boot OS on an NVMe SSD with a PCIe adapter in the R2.0 version? Since it seems this new bios adds nvme support that putting an Samsung M.2 into a PCIe adapter might give this old girl a little speed boost. It's only really worth while though if you can boot the OS from it. That way I can just reuse the M.2 drive on a newer AM4 platform without loosing any $$$ upgrading this machine.


----------



## Korennya

Would also finally let me get around the damn Samsung 850 evo not working when the Sata ports are set to raid. I could finally hardware raid my storage discs again!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> You never see those mismatched color DIMM slots because they are covered by the RAM, so don't you dare bashing on my kittyboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CHVZ is more expensive with less features as well which makes the choice even easier for me.


Whut?

Me bashing?


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> I'm worried about the heatsink, it seems smaller than the one on R2. Hope the fan can compromise the performance. I'm thinking of adding a 38mm thick delta there.
> 
> By the way, which one would you guys for go now? CHVZ or the R3.0?


only fits a 40x40x10.

i tried a 15mm thick fan at first...no bueno


----------



## miklkit

AFAIK the Sabertooth is the only motherboard you can buy that comes with VRM temperature sensors, and it has 2 of them. One in the center and one next to the 8 prong plug at the top of the board. That one runs maybe 10C cooler than the center one. When the center hits 82Con my rig it destabilizes, but it never comes close to that in everyday use.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> only fits a 40x40x10.
> 
> i tried a 15mm thick fan at first...no bueno


That is good to know.. I have a 24 port 3com switch that has one in it but it is way to thick. I can't find my others i used to have and chances are they won't cut it anyways.
So far I haven't found any post or reference in the manuals to what size it takes. At best I don't recall the book saying there is a place for one.


----------



## BinaryBummer

The VRM fan slot, seems to me having it blowing out would be better? I agree that cool air in would be best but being the Wraith Cooler sits so close to it the CPU fan would probable cancel the airflow from the 40x40 fan?

What do you all think?


----------



## miklkit

It doesn't make sense to have the fans working against each other. They should be working together in harmony.


----------



## sli_shroom

i oriented mine to blow out

i didnt see anywhere about the 10mm fan thickness either and it wasnt until i tried a 15mm fan that i figured it out. there is a set of mounting holes and a small lip under the tuf cover and the fan has to fit between them. you could shave the lip off and use a thicker fan (not sure if there would be any clearance issues at the bottom of the fan/surface of the mobo though

i found there werent many pwm 40mmx10mm fans out there. not sure if the pwm was really necessary but i didnt know if the bios would support fan control for a standard 3pin fan


----------



## zila

I want this new 990FX R3.0 board. I like the looks of this board.


----------



## sli_shroom

interesting that the toslink lane is so noticeable when you backlight the mobo













i can see this annoying the carp out of someone with ocd as it really only lets white through


----------



## mus1mus

You can turn it OFF anyways.


----------



## sli_shroom

um...that isnt going to keep the light from shining through

asus just doesnt use a colored pcb over it..so it is clear (ish)


----------



## mus1mus

Well, your GPU will probably have an UGLY LED as well.









Things we have to live with in RGB-GEN.


----------



## sli_shroom

not the gpus...but unfortunately the bridge does...well at least until i disconnect it


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> only fits a 40x40x10.
> 
> i tried a 15mm thick fan at first...no bueno


What a pitty. Just wanted to fit a delta so bad onto it, seemed like the only 990fx board that could take it and still look serious. Do you have any results from using the R3.0?

And also, no need for PWM, just use full speed on it. They're small, they're on the back of the case and if its under 5k RPM you probably won't notice it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> AFAIK the Sabertooth is the only motherboard you can buy that comes with VRM temperature sensors, and it has 2 of them. One in the center and one next to the 8 prong plug at the top of the board. That one runs maybe 10C cooler than the center one. When the center hits 82Con my rig it destabilizes, but it never comes close to that in everyday use.


Are you sure R3.0 has those sensors too? From what I've seen, AI Suite that comes with it shows no info about VRM temps :/ That's from what I've seen on videos and screenshots.

EDIT: We badly need a good review of the board.


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Will you use the added features of the Sabertooth? Do you prefer red? Really it is up to you.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I'd go with either. Granting, you can live with those out of place colored DIMM slots on the kitty! You cannot find a harder board to keep the color coordination in place!


All I need is some temp sensors on parts of it, at least 4 independant 4pin PWM fan connections and a good VRM that can bring my 8320 to 4.7GHz or more. I've achieved that with the ST2.0 that died on me months ago. Was thinking of going intel but what the heck, it's 200EUR vs 700EUR for skylake parts. I'm going to give AMD another try. So mostly what I'm asking is OC performance. I can keep the CPU cool with my 240 AIO, I got a sub-stable setup on a DS3P right now, but using 1.56V and 4.5GHz, on the Sabertooth it took 1.47V to get 4.5GHz. My temps don't go above 50C when stress testing (good airflow in the case overall does it).


----------



## mus1mus

Kitty it is then.


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Kitty it is then.


So VRM design on the CHVZ isn't any better?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> only fits a 40x40x10.
> 
> i tried a 15mm thick fan at first...no bueno


I that's a bummer.. i wanted to try the Noiseblocker Black silent PM-1.. now i have to choose between the Noiseblocker black silent XM-2 or the Noctua NF A4x10 FLX.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> only fits a 40x40x10.
> 
> i tried a 15mm thick fan at first...no bueno


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> The VRM fan slot, seems to me having it blowing out would be better? I agree that cool air in would be best but being the Wraith Cooler sits so close to it the CPU fan would probable cancel the airflow from the 40x40 fan?
> 
> What do you all think?


In my personal opinion it would be better to set the fan as an exhaust, blowing hot vrm air towards the cooler isn't very smart IMO but i could be wrong. I did some testing with an 120mm fan on the back side of the socket and i noticed an big improvement in sucking the hot air away from the component than blowing on it since the air cannot go anywhere and while you have it in an exhaust mode the hot air is moving away from the component just like you want.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> only fits a 40x40x10.
> 
> i tried a 15mm thick fan at first...no bueno


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> I want this new 990FX R3.0 board. I like the looks of this board.


Trust me, its gorgeous! It also performs as a champ, haven't tried high overclocks yet as i am happy with my setup for now, but i am sure it clocks similar to the R2.0 version of the Sabertooth and maybe more because it has an even better BIOS.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> only fits a 40x40x10.
> 
> i tried a 15mm thick fan at first...no bueno


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> What a pitty. Just wanted to fit a delta so bad onto it, seemed like the only 990fx board that could take it and still look serious. Do you have any results from using the R3.0?
> 
> And also, no need for PWM, just use full speed on it. They're small, they're on the back of the case and if its under 5k RPM you probably won't notice it.
> Are you sure R3.0 has those sensors too? From what I've seen, AI Suite that comes with it shows no info about VRM temps :/ That's from what I've seen on videos and screenshots.
> 
> EDIT: We badly need a good review of the board.


Yes it does have vrm temp sensors and they can be monitored in AL suite3.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> only fits a 40x40x10.
> 
> i tried a 15mm thick fan at first...no bueno


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> So VRM design on the CHVZ isn't any better?


Nope, and IMO the CHVZ is way overpriced. The Sabertooth R3.0 is cheaper and offers more features.

I will do an sort of overview of this board later this day with pictures and some explanations.


----------



## tashcz

Cheers man, would love to see that! Will you try overclocking it today too?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Cheers man, would love to see that! Will you try overclocking it today too?


Maybe, i am busy gathering information i have about these 2 boards and if i have it complete i will post it.


----------



## hurricane28

Here is my little overview of the board like promised, i am no professional and the images are not the best but it gives an idea how the board looks etc.

Here is a picture when i got the board. IMO an aesthetically pleasing box which means serious business and that there is an quality product inside. To me packaging and aesthetics are a BIG plus when i buy something because it feels like a good purchase.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







What come with the board is rather simple which includes, 4 SATA cables, 1 IO shield, SLI bridge. Pretty strait forward.

Here is a picture when i took it out of the box: I really like the new aesthetics of this board compared to the R2.0 which is IMO the ugliest board i ever saw... sadly it hasn't completely got rid of the ugly Noctua brown color on the DIMM slots and USB 3.0 connectors but its not disturbing me.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Here i have it installed and i personally really like the RGB lighting on the PCI-e slots.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Here you can see where my Samsung 950 Pro M.2 drive is installed, i really like the place of the M.2 connector compared to the Gigabyte Gaming G1 because i couldn't take it out or even see it, it was getting also more hot than on the Sabertooth because its more close to the GPU. Temps are now between 30-50c depending on the ambient temp and what i am doing obviously but mostly its around 30-35c.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





Here is a picture of the VRM heat sink and the option to mount 40mm fan, i can't decide yet what fan i am going to buy. IMO its best to mount the fan as an exhaust because its pulling the hot air outside of the case and when you have it in a pushing mode it simply pushes the hot air through my radiator. I personally don't think it will interfere with the airflow that much because these little fans are not all that power full so the only thing they do is pulling air away from the VRM's outside of the case. Also, when you have it in push, there is no dust filter so you are pushing unfiltered air inside your case which cause lots of dust buildup pretty quick.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Here is a picture of the Corsair SP120L sucking air away from the socket which dramatically drops temps. I had it in push mode first but than after some thinking i turned the fan around and set it as an exhaust and temps were getting even lower because like i mentioned before, the hot air has nowhere to go so the best option is to suck the hot air away from the hot component in this case too.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Here are some BIOS screenshots. The BIOS of the R3.0 is very similar to the R2.0 only it looks much better and it has more options as you will see in a second.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!














What i really like with this BIOS is that when you change something and you hit save and exit, there is an popup window that shows you what you have changed and that you are sure that you really want to change it. This can be very handy because there are so many settings and IMO its pretty need to see what you changed before save and exit.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Here are some BIOS screens of the R2.0, sadly i didn't make pictures of the entire BIOS but this gives you an idea how it looks compared to the R3.0.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









This was my little tour on the Asus 990FX Sabertooth R3.0. I hope you liked it. I have little time so i kept it as short as possible. Take my personal recommendations with a grain of salt as it is personal preference and things can be different from your situation and build.

I do remember i forgot something to mention.

The audio codec is the ALC 1150 and it sounds amazing! I am no expert in audio but i do know a thing or 2 about it and one thing is that it sounds much much better than the Sabertooth R2.0 and the Gigabyte gaming G1. Especially when you turn the onboard audio amp on, it gets very loud an the sound is very crispy and clear. When i listen to music i mostly use my ATH-M50X noise cancelling headphone from Audio technica and it really sounds amazing!
I also discovered that Realtec releases new codecs pretty quick which can be found here: http://forums.laptopvideo2go.com/topic/24364-latest-realtek-audio-codecs/?page=10

I did not noticed huge differences but when i upgraded from the one that is on the Asus site to the newest release from the site i mentioned, i could hear that the notes are slightly higher and its even more clearer, i don't know exactly if its an placebo but i am very sensitive about this but to be sure i have to have both codecs next to each other to be sure. Its quite need that Realtec releases new codecs that fast because its a nice feeling that Realtec actually spend time and effort in their product and you get the latest codecs.

I do have a complaint about this Asus Realtec HD audio manager though. When ever i do a restart or just boot up my PC i can see that the amp setting is always at front panel for some reason. I have nothing connected tot he front panel so i have no idea as to why i have to manually set this to auto in order for the amp to work on the jack on the back side of the board. Maybe there is some setting? If anyone knows, feel free to tell me. Other than that, i am very pleased with the audio and IMO you don't need an external or internal audio card.

Next thing i want to mention is the RGB LED on the PCIe lanes. It looks amazing and there are many colors to choose from but i discovered that when i turned my PC off the lighting doesn't turn off and the room is filled with the color you previously set.. so you have to manually turn the LED's off with the AURA software which can be a hassle IMO. Maybe this little thing can be solved by an update or something because these little things can really annoy me because its not necessary.

Other than that, i really really love the board in every possible way. I might gunning for 5GHz some day but as for now i am pretty pleased with 4.8GHz and i don't think there will be such an huge difference except for voltage that will justify the higher TDP and the extra stress on the components but i will test that later.

That was all folks.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> So VRM design on the CHVZ isn't any better?


The CHVFZ may have a little extra under the hood. But for normal clocks and usage, you can't really differentiate their capabilities.

The CHVFZ may shine under extreme benching sessions. And the addition of the extra 4-pin EPS may prove beneficial.

CHVFZ does have temp sensor headers. But so does the Kitty, IIRC. But the Sabertooth has inline temp sensors for the VRM. Could've been better if the CHvFZ includes one.

Anyway, both are superb.


----------



## tashcz

Very nice man, and thanks for your time. You've answered a lot of questions.

What I'd like to know is do you really need a fan over northbridge, and how is the heatsink on R3 compared to R2? Bigger, smaller? Can't compare it from pictures and the plastic shround on the R3.

As I can see, you're running it at [email protected] That's something I was using earlier, though my frequency was 4.7GHz. Next step if time allows you would be to stress test the system and post temperatures from the new AI Suite 3 if possible, I'd really love to do that. And try it without the fan on the NB







It would be great if we could see how much the system really gets without any ghetto mods.

Considering 40mm fans, I have quite some experience with them. Best one I have is a xilence one, you need to make sure not to get a cheap no-name one since they basicly just spin around and do nothing. The xilence one does move some air, like 7CFM or so but it's something at least. Other options are like I wanted to do, the Delta ones, but as you've guys said it's impossible to put it there.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-Delta-EFB0412VHD-40x40x20mm-40mm-4020-12V-0-18A-DC-BRUSHLESS-Fan-3pin-wire-/221265674444?ssPageName=ADME:X:EAC:US:1120

If this one could fit anyhow it'd be great... but it's 2CM thick


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> i oriented mine to blow out
> 
> i didnt see anywhere about the 10mm fan thickness either and it wasnt until i tried a 15mm fan that i figured it out. there is a set of mounting holes and a small lip under the tuf cover and the fan has to fit between them. you could shave the lip off and use a thicker fan (not sure if there would be any clearance issues at the bottom of the fan/surface of the mobo though
> 
> i found there werent many pwm 40mmx10mm fans out there. not sure if the pwm was really necessary but i didnt know if the bios would support fan control for a standard 3pin fan


I figured the notch could also be there for holding the position.. (meaning the fan may have to insert to a specific side) But dunno... Might try to find a fan laying around in the junk..


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> The CHVFZ may have a little extra under the hood. But for normal clocks and usage, you can't really differentiate their capabilities.
> 
> The CHVFZ may shine under extreme benching sessions. And the addition of the extra 4-pin EPS may prove beneficial.
> 
> CHVFZ does have temp sensor headers. But so does the Kitty, IIRC. But the Sabertooth has inline temp sensors for the VRM. Could've been better if the CHvFZ includes one.
> 
> Anyway, both are superb.


Does 4.8-4.9 count for normal clocks?







Because that's what I'm trying to achieve, it was possible with the Sabertooth but wondering if the CHVZ would be better.

By the way, how do I get that 3rd 4pin CPU connector, I haven't found a PSU that has it?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Does 4.8-4.9 count for normal clocks?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because that's what I'm trying to achieve, it was possible with the Sabertooth but wondering if the CHVZ would be better.
> 
> By the way, how do I get that 3rd 4pin CPU connector, I haven't found a PSU that has it?


I've been running 1.6v 5ghz on my sabertooth for years now, my sabertooth is watercooled for silence but still... yes the sabertooth will hit those clocks providing your cooling is up to scratch. When it comes to AMD and the FX range "If you can cool it, you can clock it"









Also because I'm a watercooling sl00t!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## miklkit

As a retired pipefitter who spent years bending tubing to the tightest specs one would think I would be all over that pipular stuff. And I've thought about it, using copper pipe and fittings everywhere. But me eyes have gone bad and I can't measure to those tolerances anymore so now it is: fans? What fans?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> As a retired pipefitter who spent years bending tubing to the tightest specs one would think I would be all over that pipular stuff. And I've thought about it, using copper pipe and fittings everywhere. But me eyes have gone bad and I can't measure to those tolerances anymore so now it is: fans? What fans?


In regards to hardline tubing you can buy one of these that does the tolerances for you, or do you mean your eyesight is that bad you can't see pencil marks on a tube when cutting?


----------



## miklkit

I mean I can't see the tiniest lines on the rulers and I used to work inside of those lines. The thickness of the line from a well sharpened pencil was too thick and I would choose which side of it to cut on. Being off by 1/124th of an inch would get you reamed by the foreman. But when the client walked by and saw the work they always smiled.

BTW, copper kills mold and fungus and stuff. Drop a few pennies into the water tank of your toilet and see the difference.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I mean I can't see the tiniest lines on the rulers and I used to work inside of those lines. The thickness of the line from a well sharpened pencil was too thick and I would choose which side of it to cut on. Being off by 1/124th of an inch would get you reamed by the foreman. But when the client walked by and saw the work they always smiled.
> 
> BTW, copper kills mold and fungus and stuff. Drop a few pennies into the water tank of your toilet and see the difference.


Corrodes though, put vinegar into a copper rad and see what comes out. Any who, can you not get the old eyes seen to?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Very nice man, and thanks for your time. You've answered a lot of questions.
> 
> What I'd like to know is do you really need a fan over northbridge, and how is the heatsink on R3 compared to R2? Bigger, smaller? Can't compare it from pictures and the plastic shround on the R3.
> 
> As I can see, you're running it at [email protected] That's something I was using earlier, though my frequency was 4.7GHz. Next step if time allows you would be to stress test the system and post temperatures from the new AI Suite 3 if possible, I'd really love to do that. And try it without the fan on the NB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would be great if we could see how much the system really gets without any ghetto mods.
> 
> Considering 40mm fans, I have quite some experience with them. Best one I have is a xilence one, you need to make sure not to get a cheap no-name one since they basicly just spin around and do nothing. The xilence one does move some air, like 7CFM or so but it's something at least. Other options are like I wanted to do, the Delta ones, but as you've guys said it's impossible to put it there.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-Delta-EFB0412VHD-40x40x20mm-40mm-4020-12V-0-18A-DC-BRUSHLESS-Fan-3pin-wire-/221265674444?ssPageName=ADME:X:EAC:US:1120
> 
> If this one could fit anyhow it'd be great... but it's 2CM thick


It really depends on your overclock. If you are aiming for 4.8-5GHz i would recommend an additional fan on the NB due tot he high voltage the VRM's have to endure.
Its not about pure clock speeds with these things tho, i discovered that overclocking the CPU/NB will noticeably improve system response and it gives an healthy extra points in benchmarks like Firestrike.

The heatsink on the R3.0 is smaller than on the R2.0 but its doing an fantastic job so far, i am pushing 1.5vcore and 1.35V though my CPU/NB and the vrm's are mostly sitting around 30-35c and under heavy load they can spike up to 50c. The fan on the back side of the socket really helps lowering temps, it helps better than just adding fans blowing on the vrm heat sink itself to be honest. The best config IMO is an extra 40mm fan in the plastic shroud of the vrm and one 120mm blowing on the back side of the socket. OR you can put an water block on it. Its because the last one is too expensive for me but otherwise i would love to water cool my CPU and motherboard..

The fans i consider to buy are the Noctua NF-A4 x10 FLX, Noiseblocker NB black silent XM2.
I seen several very nice 40mm fans that possibly fit in the plastic shroud of the vrm, i have to make up my mind which one i want to go for.


----------



## tashcz

Thanks man, really appreciate all your words here. I will probably go for R3.0 and get my last shot at this AM3+ system. Though I hate to say the difference here between R2.0 and R3.0 is 50EUR.

I've taken a look at the fans you posted, and I think they're not the best options. Try looking for some that push at least 7-8CFM. Those are around 5CFM. Xilence is damn cheap, got mine for 2EUR, and it does a good job on this board cooling the VRMs compared to other "no-name" 40mm I have laying around.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Thanks man, really appreciate all your words here. I will probably go for R3.0 and get my last shot at this AM3+ system. Though I hate to say the difference here between R2.0 and R3.0 is 50EUR.
> 
> I've taken a look at the fans you posted, and I think they're not the best options. Try looking for some that push at least 7-8CFM. Those are around 5CFM. Xilence is damn cheap, got mine for 2EUR, and it does a good job on this board cooling the VRMs compared to other "no-name" 40mm I have laying around.


If you intend to stay with AM3+ for a long time, then i suppose it's worth it. Otherwise, if price is a concern, IMHO, the best bang for buck is the ASUS 970 Aura. It should do 4.5Ghz, an expert overclocker in this forum had made a review where he hit 5Ghz. With additional cooling probably. But, honestly, as things are today, even if were a gamer, i 'd be happy with 4.5Ghz and the AURA is just over 100 EUR. And that's an amazing price for what it gives. It's really solid motherboard. Besides, the other day i was casually googling and had found many cases where the difference between 8350 and 9570 was a handful of fps only. 4.5Ghz is the best compromise for an overclocker i think between gains and heat generation-motherboard requirement.

I mean, Ok, if you want at all costs the clocks above 4.5Ghz, then, by all means, the Sabertooth becomes obbligatory. But the other day i was casually googling and found several cases, where the difference even between 8350 and 9570 was negligible in many games. If one manages 4.5Ghz, i don't think that extra 500Mhz will make or break a game.

Here there is only 1 shop that sells the R3 for 170 EUR, all the rest have it from 185 EUR and above. That's almost twice the price of the AURA. For 500Mhz (maybe, depending on chip) more? And for a platform that soon is EOL? That's not good bang for buck... With 185 EUR, you probably cover more than half the price of an 8 core Zen.


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> If you intend to stay with AM3+ for a long time, then i suppose it's worth it. Otherwise, if price is a concern, IMHO, the best bang for buck is the ASUS 970 Aura. It should do 4.5Ghz, an expert overclocker in this forum had made a review where he hit 5Ghz. With additional cooling probably. But, honestly, as things are today, even if were a gamer, i 'd be happy with 4.5Ghz and the AURA is just over 100 EUR. And that's an amazing price for what it gives. It's really solid motherboard. Besides, the other day i was casually googling and had found many cases where the difference between 8350 and 9570 was a handful of fps only. 4.5Ghz is the best compromise for an overclocker i think between gains and heat generation-motherboard requirement.
> 
> I mean, Ok, if you want at all costs the clocks above 4.5Ghz, then, by all means, the Sabertooth becomes obbligatory. But the other day i was casually googling and found several cases, where the difference even between 8350 and 9570 was negligible in many games. If one manages 4.5Ghz, i don't think that extra 500Mhz will make or break a game.
> 
> Here there is only 1 shop that sells the R3 for 170 EUR, all the rest have it from 185 EUR and above. That's almost twice the price of the AURA. For 500Mhz (maybe, depending on chip) more? And for a platform that soon is EOL? That's not good bang for buck... With 185 EUR, you probably cover more than half the price of an 8 core Zen.


Thing is, right now I have a DS3P for my 8320. Maybe I'm not going to be on it for more than a year, but even when I stop using the system, it can still be used by someone else at decent clocks with a decent mobo, since right now I'm hitting that 4.5GHz @ 1.56V which is nuts.

It's not just clocks, it's stability. Anything above 4.2GHz on this board requires a bunch of volts and it's VRM is terrible. I know the difference between 4.5GHz and 4.8 or so will be small, but with 990fx I get the option to OC the NB and some other stuff and I get increased stability. Can't find Aura anywhere here but I think it was around 100-120EUR. It is a lot cheaper, but I think for above 4.5GHz anything other than Sabertooth or CHVZ is stupid. And I know, it's late to invest into a new AM3+ board but I can't just leave this system as-is with a DS3P.

Getting Zen would mean getting a CPU, Mobo, and RAM. If I was to get 6700K, it'd cost me 650-700EUR for those three (6700K + VIII Hero + 16GB DDR4 @ 3000MHz or so). I think Zen might be about 100EUR cheaper, we'll see. But even with 6700K I'm going to get a 10% FPS increase in most games







Everything works great on this systems, though some games "drop" FPS at moments. the investment in a new board is to get a little bit more out of it and improve stability. Hope you understand


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Thing is, right now I have a DS3P for my 8320. Maybe I'm not going to be on it for more than a year, but even when I stop using the system, it can still be used by someone else at decent clocks with a decent mobo, since right now I'm hitting that 4.5GHz @ 1.56V which is nuts.
> 
> It's not just clocks, it's stability. Anything above 4.2GHz on this board requires a bunch of volts and it's VRM is terrible. I know the difference between 4.5GHz and 4.8 or so will be small, but with 990fx I get the option to OC the NB and some other stuff and I get increased stability. Can't find Aura anywhere here but I think it was around 100-120EUR. It is a lot cheaper, but I think for above 4.5GHz anything other than Sabertooth or CHVZ is stupid. And I know, it's late to invest into a new AM3+ board but I can't just leave this system as-is with a DS3P.
> 
> Getting Zen would mean getting a CPU, Mobo, and RAM. If I was to get 6700K, it'd cost me 650-700EUR for those three (6700K + VIII Hero + 16GB DDR4 @ 3000MHz or so). I think Zen might be about 100EUR cheaper, we'll see. But even with 6700K I'm going to get a 10% FPS increase in most games
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything works great on this systems, though some games "drop" FPS at moments. the investment in a new board is to get a little bit more out of it and improve stability. Hope you understand


Yeah, it's a miracle you achieve 4.5Ghz on the DS3P already. Here (Italy) the cheapest price where you can find new AUra is 100 EUR i think. I only proposed it, because it should be able to hit 4.5Ghz reliably and it's 7+1 phase and without complaints from users. For 100 EUR i don't think there is a better motherboard and 4.5Ghz isn't bad at all for gamers.

I wouldn't go Intel yet either. The FX can still game just fine, no reason to give all that money to start from scratch. If you want stability and clocks above 4.5Ghz then the Sabertooth becomes the best option, but like you say, it comes at a price.


----------



## tashcz

I just found it in a local shop for roughly 105EUR. Now you're tickling my mind :/


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> I just found it in a local shop for roughly 105EUR. Now you're tickling my mind :/


whatever you choose i always use a vrm fan even if its just a 40mm....vrm temps are very important when pushing these chips..anything over 4.5 id run a socket fan and a vrm fan


----------



## gertruude

id use fans on there if i was running 24/7 100% cpu usage but for just gaming you really dont need one, unless you got a really crappy cooler lol


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> id use fans on there if i was running 24/7 100% cpu usage but for just gaming you really dont need one, unless you got a really crappy cooler lol


I gonna add the fan just to see if homeland security or the dea thinks I am drawing to much power from the house.. I actually had that happen years ago cause my usage was excessive to previous tenants. This world..

I did look at a few6.x cfm fans but then you have the build quality... bearings can make or break a decision as well.

Today I be off to the heart doctor to see whats up.

Cheers!


----------



## miklkit

On topic: The main thing that concerns me about ASUS is their quality control. The first Sabertooth I got was warped so badly I RMA'd it immediately. It's replacement wasn't warped too badly and I tried it. It's VRMs ran at 43C while it was idling and when they hit 82C it would destabilize. The one I'm using now is much better with them idling around 24C and peaking in the 74 C range. Vcore over 1.5v and NB/HT around 1.3v all cooled by case and air cooler fans.

Oh about performance, it depends on the use. Going from 4.5 ghz to 5 ghz will only really help in old games and online games as then the single thread performance gains are worthwhile. For modern multi thread apps 4.5 is adequate.

What is really holding the FX back is its old instruction set. CPUs come with their own "bios" and this makes a big difference in performance. FX beats out the older Phenoms as much because of its newer instruction sets as anything else. And intel beats out FX mostly because of its much newer instruction sets. The performance gap there is much larger than the gap in single thread performance. The intel practice of coming out with new models constantly is paying off now there.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> On topic: The main thing that concerns me about ASUS is their quality control. The first Sabertooth I got was warped so badly I RMA'd it immediately. It's replacement wasn't warped too badly and I tried it. It's VRMs ran at 43C while it was idling and when they hit 82C it would destabilize. The one I'm using now is much better with them idling around 24C and peaking in the 74 C range. Vcore over 1.5v and NB/HT around 1.3v all cooled by case and air cooler fans.


Funny you mention QC. My last contact with ASUS was in socket A, KT600. It was one of the most expensive motherboards based on via chipset at the time. The plastic SATA port just came off one day and the BIOS would randomly reset itself (and it wasn't battery issue). It was then that i started going "quantity over quality". But i guess sooner or later i should try ASUS again...
Quote:


> Oh about performance, it depends on the use. Going from 4.5 ghz to 5 ghz will only really help in old games and online games as then the single thread performance gains are worthwhile. For modern multi thread apps 4.5 is adequate.


That's very true. The other day i was browsing through reviews of the 8320E and 8370E and i noticed exactly that you say. That despite the clock penalty, they were usually within about 3 fps from an 8350 in the game benchmarks. Same for 8370 compared to 9590. They must be newer, better coded games, so that clock difference doesn't pay off as one would expect, like you say.


----------



## BinaryBummer

I found a fan for my VRM but at this time I may not really need it so it is in there plugged up for what its worth. Oddball Fan!

It is the same as this one but it only has two mounting screws. So I have one screw holding it till I get a better fan. 4CM rated Silent


----------



## sli_shroom

the fan you posted a pic of only has 2 screws...the other 2 are for the heatsink to the mobo. i ran that mobo (soyo dragon kt400) and the fan was garbage...sleeve bearing that squealed like crazy. lubing it only lasted a month or so and it would start again

blast from the past...lol


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> the fan you posted a pic of only has 2 screws...the other 2 are for the heatsink to the mobo. i ran that mobo (soyo dragon kt400) and the fan was garbage...sleeve bearing that squealed like crazy. lubing it only lasted a month or so and it would start again
> 
> blast from the past...lol


The one I have is black and a better build then that clear one, but the mount is the same with 2 screws.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Funny you mention QC. My last contact with ASUS was in socket A, KT600. It was one of the most expensive motherboards based on via chipset at the time. The plastic SATA port just came off one day and the BIOS would randomly reset itself (and it wasn't battery issue). It was then that i started going "quantity over quality". But i guess sooner or later i should try ASUS again...
> That's very true. The other day i was browsing through reviews of the 8320E and 8370E and i noticed exactly that you say. That despite the clock penalty, they were usually within about 3 fps from an 8350 in the game benchmarks. Same for 8370 compared to 9590. They must be newer, better coded games, so that clock difference doesn't pay off as one would expect, like you say.


Yeah, people just don't "get" how to build an AMD rig. You start with the case and work your way in because the CPU is the least important part. The PSU and motherboard are much more important. Then comes cooling as it doesn't make sense to go AMD if one doesn't OC it and that brings it right back to the case and its fans.

Then take the money saved by going with the less expensive CPU and put it into a better video card. I accidentally stayed up all night playing The Witcher 3 and somewhere in there i took this screenie.


Guess where my bottleneck is?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> 
> 
> Guess where my bottleneck is?


Floppy drive controller.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Yeah, people just don't "get" how to build an AMD rig. You start with the case and work your way in because the CPU is the least important part. The PSU and motherboard are much more important. Then comes cooling as it doesn't make sense to go AMD if one doesn't OC it and that brings it right back to the case and its fans.
> 
> Then take the money saved by going with the less expensive CPU and put it into a better video card. I accidentally stayed up all night playing The Witcher 3 and somewhere in there i took this screenie.
> 
> 
> Guess where my bottleneck is?


I had relatively low CPU usage in Crysis 3 too. This program solved the problem and now my CPU hits 100% and i get around 10 frames more with same settings!

Download timer resolution from this site: http://120hz.net/showthread.php?1514-Crysis-3-30-FPS-Boost-FPS-Cap-Removal!-(1080p-cam-video)&p=21396

Install it and set timer resolution range to max. Now the CPU is capable of rendering clips faster and send them to the GPU which results in higher frames.

I haven't tried this with other games just yet but it seems logical that it works with every game.


----------



## tashcz

Okay guys, sorry to go offtopic but here's the deal. I'm making the choice today. Aura 970 for 110EUR or Sabertooth R3.0 for 220EUR.

How much would I lose if I go to Aura? I'm aiming for 4.7GHz that I achieved on the old Sabertooth R2.0 easily. I use a GTX970.

And can I OC NB on the 970 series or its just good for 990fx?

Thanks a bunch, your comments of comparison are welcome.


----------



## Ricwin

After using 970 chip boards previously, I would never ever recommend them. At all.
For a super cheap web browser or office PC, then maybe. But for anything else, buy a 990 or go Intel.


----------



## tashcz

Can you give me a reason? I can see why not to get a cheap one, but this one is 7+1 phases and it's recommended by a lot of people as far as I can see?


----------



## hurricane28

If you have the money go Sabertooth R3.0 you won't be disappointed.

you might get away with the same overclock on the 970 aura but for everyday usage i would recommend the Sabertooth over anything.

It has longer warranty, better audio, M.2 slot basically the same as the aura only its better.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Okay guys, sorry to go offtopic but here's the deal. I'm making the choice today. Aura 970 for 110EUR or Sabertooth R3.0 for 220EUR.
> 
> How much would I lose if I go to Aura? I'm aiming for 4.7GHz that I achieved on the old Sabertooth R2.0 easily. I use a GTX970.
> 
> And can I OC NB on the 970 series or its just good for 990fx?
> 
> Thanks a bunch, your comments of comparison are welcome.


I been trying to find bad reviews of this 970 board but i cant find any worthwhile lol

heres a review by Flank3r his post is on LN2 but if you scroll down he does a nice little review of this board

If you just want this for gaming and a nice little overclock i would get this over the sabertooth just for the sake of saving quite a bit of money(damn did i just say that







)

sli is only x8x8


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> I been trying to find bad reviews of this 970 board but i cant find any worthwhile lol
> 
> heres a review by Flank3r his post is on LN2 but if you scroll down he does a nice little review of this board
> 
> If you just want this for gaming and a nice little overclock i would get this over the sabertooth just for the sake of saving quite a bit of money(damn did i just say that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> sli is only x8x8


Yeah, thats what I'm up to do, from tasks that are going to put my 8320 to the max it's only the games that are gonna do that. I've read that review multiple times (I get crazy when I can't decide between two things) and seems like I can't find anything bad about it either.

SLI won't be an issue since I'm using a GTX970 and game on 1080p. By the time my appetite grows I'll probably get an upgrade to AM4 or go Intel, who knows. But this setup (OC'd 8320 and a GTX970) should be enough for at least a year more.

I'll be trying to aim 4.7GHz with the Aura. One thing I'll be missing most is the VRM temp sensor but what the heck, I'll use a IR thermometer.

I'm planning on not installing the IO shield and putting 2x40mm there as an exhaust, just next to the VRM heatsink. Think it will do a good job. As much info as I gathered on Aura's mosfets, it should be able to provide 400W at 1.5V to the CPU if the VRM's are at 80C, with it's 7 phases. I think I'll manage to get my 4.7GHz.

Thing is, I really don't wanna spend 200EUR on some extra options that I mostly won't use. The VRM temps will interest me as much as I do the testing but once I get the setup done, I won't look at them any more. It does look shinier than the Aura, but is it worth an extra 100EUR for that one VRM phase? Not sure in my case. And I might see a 2-3% performance increase between the two if I get 100MHz less than I would with the Sabertooth.

One thing I would like to ask, does 4.7GHz on a 970 chipset perform as well as 4.7GHz on a 990FX? It might be an odd question, but I'm not sure if there might be a bottleneck somewhere on the northbridge/chipset that would affect performance. I really don't think I need 990FX if it doesn't "add" performance to the system, as a chipset itself.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> One thing I would like to ask, does 4.7GHz on a 970 chipset perform as well as 4.7GHz on a 990FX?


There might be a memory penalty in synthetic benchmarks, maybe due to the lower HT.

http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/asus_970_pro_gaming_aura_review,11.html

I don't have time to dig further, i just saw this once and remembered it.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, thats what I'm up to do, from tasks that are going to put my 8320 to the max it's only the games that are gonna do that. I've read that review multiple times (I get crazy when I can't decide between two things) and seems like I can't find anything bad about it either.
> 
> SLI won't be an issue since I'm using a GTX970 and game on 1080p. By the time my appetite grows I'll probably get an upgrade to AM4 or go Intel, who knows. But this setup (OC'd 8320 and a GTX970) should be enough for at least a year more.
> 
> I'll be trying to aim 4.7GHz with the Aura. One thing I'll be missing most is the VRM temp sensor but what the heck, I'll use a IR thermometer.
> 
> I'm planning on not installing the IO shield and putting 2x40mm there as an exhaust, just next to the VRM heatsink. Think it will do a good job. As much info as I gathered on Aura's mosfets, it should be able to provide 400W at 1.5V to the CPU if the VRM's are at 80C, with it's 7 phases. I think I'll manage to get my 4.7GHz.
> 
> Thing is, I really don't wanna spend 200EUR on some extra options that I mostly won't use. The VRM temps will interest me as much as I do the testing but once I get the setup done, I won't look at them any more. It does look shinier than the Aura, but is it worth an extra 100EUR for that one VRM phase? Not sure in my case. And I might see a 2-3% performance increase between the two if I get 100MHz less than I would with the Sabertooth.
> 
> One thing I would like to ask, does 4.7GHz on a 970 chipset perform as well as 4.7GHz on a 990FX? It might be an odd question, but I'm not sure if there might be a bottleneck somewhere on the northbridge/chipset that would affect performance. I really don't think I need 990FX if it doesn't "add" performance to the system, as a chipset itself
> 
> 
> .


not sure if you already seen this review but ill post it anyway, not sure how accurate it is though but its worth a read


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Yeah, people just don't "get" how to build an AMD rig. You start with the case and work your way in because the CPU is the least important part. The PSU and motherboard are much more important. Then comes cooling as it doesn't make sense to go AMD if one doesn't OC it and that brings it right back to the case and its fans.
> 
> Then take the money saved by going with the less expensive CPU and put it into a better video card. I accidentally stayed up all night playing The Witcher 3 and somewhere in there i took this screenie.
> 
> Guess where my bottleneck is?


Yes, i see the GPU is 100%... Yes, i agree with the concept of building gaming PC. I do the opposite, but i also start from the case. Normally i buy a case without front and top mesh, but with side fans. The top mesh is the worst, because it pushes the noise out of the case and to your ears. This time i did buy a case with front mesh for the main rig, but it's limited to the bottom. I didn't have much choice, cause i wanted side fans and 3 5.25 bays. Then, the next step is to overclock undervolted to the last stock FX clock (4Ghz). This way, you get a Cool N Quiet PC, that is more than powerful (for my needs) and it is also kept reasonably silent. People ***** about how bad, obsolete, ancient etc, the FX is, but for me, it was a blessing.

My 8320 celebrated its 2th birthday this month (i have the 6300 longer than that) and i bought it 2 years ago 120 EUR. Today,at 4Ghz, in x264 it performs like a stock i5 6600K, which costs 220 EUR.







If you count the 8300 i have for spare, i bought 2 CPUs at the price of one 6600k almost. Which makes the encoding a trivial business, because i now have a dedicated rig for that, so on the main PC i only encode sporadically, if i want something faster.







So, in my case, not overclocking (well, i do, but 4Ghz is stock 8350, so...) does make sense too and in Skyrim, i get 60 fps at 98% of the time. In a future upgrade, when there will be a considerably more powerful 60W GPU, i will be 60 fps 100% of the time.

With motherboard and PSU i go cheap and in quantities, since 4Ghz doesn't put much stress and even if something burns, i can replace it at the spot. Works fine and i actually have still to have something fail. (although i wish the worst to my Gigabyte board).









But yes, for a gamer, your concept makes more sense.


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> There might be a memory penalty in synthetic benchmarks, maybe due to the lower HT.
> 
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/asus_970_pro_gaming_aura_review,11.html
> 
> I don't have time to dig further, i just saw this once and remembered it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> not sure if you already seen this review but ill post it anyway, not sure how accurate it is though but its worth a read


Thank you guys for your time and work, appreciate it. I've ordered the Aura since none of the local shops had it in stock today, I'm getting it tomorrow, hope to install it during the day. I will thank you all with your advices with a little review of the board and compare it to the Sabertooth R2.0 I owned before it died and the DS3P I'm using currently, so we'll see where it fits between a very low budget board and what used to be the 2nd best board on the market, or maybe the best one for the AM3+ platform. I know how my chip handled those boards so it will be pretty accurate. Fingers crossed and I hope to see a near Sabertooth performance level from it.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Thank you guys for your time and work, appreciate it. I've ordered the Aura since none of the local shops had it in stock today, I'm getting it tomorrow, hope to install it during the day. I will thank you all with your advices with a little review of the board and compare it to the Sabertooth R2.0 I owned before it died and the DS3P I'm using currently, so we'll see where it fits between a very low budget board and what used to be the 2nd best board on the market, or maybe the best one for the AM3+ platform. I know how my chip handled those boards so it will be pretty accurate. Fingers crossed and I hope to see a near Sabertooth performance level from it.


Most people report that they arrive to 4.5Ghz without any particular effort. I read reviews on my local Amazon too and there was a guy that hit 4.6Ghz on the Aura, without mentioning extra cooling. So let's say you get 4.5Ghz instead of the desired 4.7Ghz. Big deal! Are 200Mhz going to make or break a game? I don't think so. And like you say, later you will either go Zen or Intel. So is it worth to give 100 EUR more for 200Mhz? For me, definitely not. And particularly, not in this time, where the AM3+ goes EOL and you intend to jump to another platform in the forseable future. If you planned to stay on AM3+ for like 4 years, well, maybe i could understand it. Well, for me it would still be wasted money, but i could understand if someone is hardcore and wants the 5 year warranty that comes with the Sabertooth. Personally i 'd rather buy 2 Aura than 1 Sabertooth, but i have my own quirks when it comes to that.

Enjoy the motherboard, i don't think there is anything wrong with it. At the very least you should get 4.5Ghz. That's a respectable clock for running a PC and doing your everyday stuff. I found on my modest 4Ghz, that on desktop snappiness, removing the antivirus is the best performance boost. The antivirus slows down all mundane operations. By a LOT.

This is the best performance score in av.test.org and the industry average, even for high end PCs, is 20% or more slowdown:



https://www.av-test.org/en/antivirus/home-windows/windows-7/august-2016/bitdefender-internet-security-2016-163191/

Even an SSD won't save you from the plague that is the antivirus. They hook at the kernel, the monitor the APIs, they create cache, scan your internet, your SSD is constantly working for your antivirus...


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> If you have the money go Sabertooth R3.0 you won't be disappointed.
> 
> you might get away with the same overclock on the 970 aura but for everyday usage i would recommend the Sabertooth over anything.
> 
> It has longer warranty, better audio, M.2 slot basically the same as the aura only its better.


hey hurricane....how is the audio working for you? i usually install a sound card, but was thinking about just using the onboard this time around. not an audiophile by any means, but even i could hear the difference with bad onboard sound the previous times i tried the onboard.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> hey hurricane....how is the audio working for you? i usually install a sound card, but was thinking about just using the onboard this time around. not an audiophile by any means, but even i could hear the difference with bad onboard sound the previous times i tried the onboard.


Hey man.

Well i must say that i am very impressed by the audio chip of my Sabertooth R3.0 compared to all my other boards. This board uses the ALC1150 instead of the ALC898 on the R2.0 and the difference is dramatically.
Sound is clear and sharp. I have Logitech Z-2300 connected to it and it sounds great. I also have ATH-M50x noise cancelling headphone and it also sounds very well on this chip. Volume is also very good.

All with all, its an very decent audio chip and probably one of the best on board solutions out there, i think you are going to like it. I am sort of an audiophile and if i like it you like it too as you said you are no audiophile yourself.


----------



## sli_shroom

good to hear. last one i tried was the AL889 on my gigabyte ud5...not impressed to say the least


----------



## hurricane28

I had that motherboard as well.First revision 1.1 later 3.0 and they both went bad.. never again a Gigabyte board, but thats another story.

This ALC1150 is really great. Are you planning on getting this board?


----------



## tashcz

Hey guys, just wanted to post an update on my status, and won't post any more about Aura in this thread (even though it was deciding between the two







) I've got it today, finally got the time to install it in my case, put everything together, and I must say, 4.5GHz was a breeze to achieve. Almost not any work to get it, just put the voltage to 1.45V and set a few VRM settings to 130%, at load the vcore gets to 1.48V which is really not a lot, with the fans set to "Auto" I'm getting 42C on 24C ambient. And boy, the VRM heatsink does the job pretty damn well. When I explore it more, get into the options it offers, I will post a small review and comparison as I promised. Though, it lacks some things I thought it wouldn't.

Thank you all for your advices and for reccomending me the Aura, it's really worth the money.


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I had that motherboard as well.First revision 1.1 later 3.0 and they both went bad.. never again a Gigabyte board, but thats another story.
> 
> This ALC1150 is really great. Are you planning on getting this board?


got it sitting on the bench...just need to find time to finish the build


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Hey guys, just wanted to post an update on my status, and won't post any more about Aura in this thread (even though it was deciding between the two
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) I've got it today, finally got the time to install it in my case, put everything together, and I must say, 4.5GHz was a breeze to achieve. Almost not any work to get it, just put the voltage to 1.45V and set a few VRM settings to 130%, at load the vcore gets to 1.48V which is really not a lot, with the fans set to "Auto" I'm getting 42C on 24C ambient. And boy, the VRM heatsink does the job pretty damn well. When I explore it more, get into the options it offers, I will post a small review and comparison as I promised. Though, it lacks some things I thought it wouldn't.
> 
> Thank you all for your advices and for reccomending me the Aura, it's really worth the money.


Glad you like it.


----------



## zila

Just placed the order for my new Sabertooth 990FX R3.0. Can't wait to start playing with this one!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Just placed the order for my new Sabertooth 990FX R3.0. Can't wait to start playing with this one!


congratulations! You will be very happy with it i guarantee it


----------



## zila

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> congratulations! You will be very happy with it i guarantee it


I just know I'm going to love it. Not one of the Asus 990 chipset boards has disappointed me yet.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Ok, I Have the R3.0 and want to know what I need to do to up past 4.3Ghz on this machine. Keep in mind I only have the Wraith cooler atm.

I want to see if I can get a bit more from it without to much heat.

Max Safe in Celsius for this 8370 is?

I need just simple straight forward Bios instructions please. I think the R2.0's bios differs from the R3.0 I just don't want to spend all this time wondering if this is the right one to tweak.

Some of the Videos i watch just over complicate it and get off topic. So let me know if you can help.

Thx..









Oh and can anyone tell me a way to switch my old build with the new one below, plz..


----------



## Mega Man

1 don't watch videos. They are full of idiots

2 same as usual

More volts.

As every reputable guide states.
Add 0.1v to both cpu/nb and nb and follow the oc guide on ocn for fx cpus


----------



## miklkit

The max safe temp under load should be 70C but it should not be allowed to go over 60C under a full steady state load. Spikes happen so I don't count them.

To start off you need to turn off turbo, CnQ, and some other power saving stuff. I forget what. Check what the VID is for your 8370 and manually set the vcore to that and see how it runs. My 8370 actually made 4.3 stable with 1.284volt vcore while under a 100% load. Use multiplier only for now and you will be fine.

Use the offset mode instead of the manual mode to set your CPU & NB voltage as that lets you use CnQ again after you are done. There is no reason to use more than high LLC and you might be ok with medium LLC.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> Ok, I Have the R3.0 and want to know what I need to do to up past 4.3Ghz on this machine. Keep in mind I only have the Wraith cooler atm.
> 
> I want to see if I can get a bit more from it without to much heat.
> 
> Max Safe in Celsius for this 8370 is?
> 
> I need just simple straight forward Bios instructions please. I think the R2.0's bios differs from the R3.0 I just don't want to spend all this time wondering if this is the right one to tweak.
> 
> Some of the Videos i watch just over complicate it and get off topic. So let me know if you can help.
> 
> Thx..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and can anyone tell me a way to switch my old build with the new one below, plz..


congratulations with your board, i have the same and i love it and so do you i hope.

For starters disable all power saving features like, QNQ, C6, pretty much everything under the tab advanced CPU configuration.

There is no fast way of overclocking to be honest. You just upper voltage until you hit temp wall. Just make sure you don't get higher temps than 62c for long periods of time and you are good to go. I personally can get my chip up to 74c according to AMD overdrive but i am not that confident to let it run that hot so i just stop at 62c max.

I have provided some screen shots of my BIOS a few pages back, maybe you can do your advantage with it and set your own frequencies. Good luck.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> *1 don't watch videos. They are full of idiots
> *
> 2 same as usual
> 
> More volts.
> 
> As every reputable guide states.
> Add 0.1v to both cpu/nb and nb and follow the oc guide on ocn for fx cpus


That's quite a bold statement to be honest... you are actually saying that ALL people that make video's about guides are idiots...? I actually learned a lot from watching those "idiots" to be honest..

For example, i learned A LOT from Britec computers, Singularity computers etc. etc.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> got it sitting on the bench...just need to find time to finish the build


Go make some time dude, can't wait to hear your findings on this board


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> congratulations with your board, i have the same and i love it and so do you i hope.
> 
> For starters disable all power saving features like, QNQ, C6, pretty much everything under the tab advanced CPU configuration.
> 
> There is no fast way of overclocking to be honest. You just upper voltage until you hit temp wall. Just make sure you don't get higher temps than 62c for long periods of time and you are good to go. I personally can get my chip up to 74c according to AMD overdrive but i am not that confident to let it run that hot so i just stop at 62c max.
> 
> I have provided some screen shots of my BIOS a few pages back, maybe you can do your advantage with it and set your own frequencies. Good luck.
> That's quite a bold statement to be honest... you are actually saying that ALL people that make video's about guides are idiots...? I actually learned a lot from watching those "idiots" to be honest..
> 
> For example, i learned A LOT from Britec computers, Singularity computers etc. etc.


Hey thanks. I think you spot on with the post. I just don't care to dole into videos that you can't either hear or dialect you can't make out , yammering about irrelevant things, or just can't see because they are blurred and so forth, you know the type.. It is like watching these kids demo a amp, and they can't even get the guitar in tune..









Sure you can learn a lot from some videos, but right now this mobo is still new and not to many post/vids out there. Until I know I can do a setting that works solid I won't post to others about it. LOL..

I will look into the posts.
Thanks Hurricane


----------



## BinaryBummer

I wonder if my old Asetek 120 would be a better cooler for this 8370 for now? I am really wondering if Air may be a better choice now over a radiator unit. I just dislike the fan to rad fan to exhaust.. Rad tends to cake up dust fast.

The Asetek I would have to dig up the mount bracket for it as well, if I could find it.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> Hey thanks. I think you spot on with the post. I just don't care to dole into videos that you can't either hear or dialect you can't make out , yammering about irrelevant things, or just can't see because they are blurred and so forth, you know the type.. It is like watching these kids demo a amp, and they can't even get the guitar in tune..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sure you can learn a lot from some videos, but right now this mobo is still new and not to many post/vids out there. Until I know I can do a setting that works solid I won't post to others about it. LOL..
> 
> I will look into the posts.
> Thanks Hurricane


NP man.

I understand what you are saying. I like to use video's because you can actually see what the guy is doing as an example, i had Windows corruption, i went to windows 10 forum and people are telling different things.. it took me a while to even understand them and even then it was utterly useless..

Than when i went on YouTube i came across the account of Britec09. This man knows A LOT about Windows 10 and explains how you can easily repair Windows and you can actually see what he is doing so you know its working instead of reading posts which you have no clue IF it works etc. Its also faster as you can skip to the part you didn't understand. Its way faster than just reading on the net IMO.
Don't forget, the most important thing is WHERE you get your information though. If you go to Microsoft forum you are assured of lots of headache and explanations, fixes that doesn't make any sense whatsoever. I tried this many times with no luck at all. I went to YouTube and simply typed what i was looking for and BAM there it was and now i can repair any Windows corruption etc. without the hassle of having to reinstall Windows again.

If you are interested, here is his channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_M-iWYpQbgo4rK1YfewI5w He saved my ass several times when i had malware, corruption or any other error. I just hate to reinstall Windows as its a pain to setup right for speed and there is a lot of bloatware installed which i don't like or use.

Good luck man and if you have any questions, plz ask


----------



## tashcz

Thing is, FX's love water, but you can do well with a big heatsink and a 120mm fan on it since it will solve the problems of water cooling, like VRM and NB temps. And yeah, probably everything is better than the wraith cooler. I wouldn't go past 1.45V or 4.3GHz on it. You might get lucky, just watch your temps.

EDIT:

A question for you guys, how much voltage do you need for 4.7GHz and what LLC do you use on your chips? I know it's lottery but I'm trying to get a pattern what's "too much" and "enough".


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> I wonder if my old Asetek 120 would be a better cooler for this 8370 for now? I am really wondering if Air may be a better choice now over a radiator unit. I just dislike the fan to rad fan to exhaust.. Rad tends to cake up dust fast.
> 
> The Asetek I would have to dig up the mount bracket for it as well, if I could find it.


I think it will be better yes. I personally have no experience with the wraith cooler but liquid is mostly better than air. Of course big air coolers can perform similar than 240mm AIO's but since you use the stock cooler compared to 120mm AIO i think it will be better.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> NP man.
> 
> I understand what you are saying. I like to use video's because you can actually see what the guy is doing as an example, i had Windows corruption, i went to windows 10 forum and people are telling different things.. it took me a while to even understand them and even then it was utterly useless..
> 
> Than when i went on YouTube i came across the account of Britec09. This man knows A LOT about Windows 10 and explains how you can easily repair Windows and you can actually see what he is doing so you know its working instead of reading posts which you have no clue IF it works etc. Its also faster as you can skip to the part you didn't understand. Its way faster than just reading on the net IMO.
> Don't forget, the most important thing is WHERE you get your information though. If you go to Microsoft forum you are assured of lots of headache and explanations, fixes that doesn't make any sense whatsoever. I tried this many times with no luck at all. I went to YouTube and simply typed what i was looking for and BAM there it was and now i can repair any Windows corruption etc. without the hassle of having to reinstall Windows again.
> 
> If you are interested, here is his channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_M-iWYpQbgo4rK1YfewI5w He saved my ass several times when i had malware, corruption or any other error. I just hate to reinstall Windows as its a pain to setup right for speed and there is a lot of bloatware installed which i don't like or use.
> 
> Good luck man and if you have any questions, plz ask


Exactly my point, A LOT of headache re hashing Same ole. I got that bookmarked
Thx.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Thing is, FX's love water, but you can do well with a big heatsink and a 120mm fan on it since it will solve the problems of water cooling, like VRM and NB temps. And yeah, probably everything is better than the wraith cooler. I wouldn't go past 1.45V or 4.3GHz on it. You might get lucky, just watch your temps.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> A question for you guys, how much voltage do you need for 4.7GHz and what LLC do you use on your chips? I know it's lottery but I'm trying to get a pattern what's "too much" and "enough".


I set 1.488v in BIOS at high LLC, this results in 1.500vcore in Windows at load and 1.476vcore at minimum.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Thing is, FX's love water, but you can do well with a big heatsink and a 120mm fan on it since it will solve the problems of water cooling, like VRM and NB temps. And yeah, probably everything is better than the wraith cooler. I wouldn't go past 1.45V or 4.3GHz on it. You might get lucky, just watch your temps.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> A question for you guys, how much voltage do you need for *4.7GHz and what LLC* do you use on your chips? I know it's lottery but I'm trying to get a pattern what's "too much" and "enough".


dont use 4.7ghz i use 4.8 heres a ss of temps and volts



hope it helps


----------



## miklkit

You got away with less volts than I did. Here is my 8370 and Sabertooth with high LLC.


Oh, and I'm an airhead so..........Air can cool very well and is cheaper and more reliable than water. The thing limiting air cooling isn't the cooler but the case air flow. Most cases do not have enough air flowing through them so the cooler ends up just reusing the same old hot air and overheating.

I started out working on case air flow and then installed the big cooler. Now I'm running at 5 ghz 24/7 on air. Pics in my sig rig.


----------



## Undervolter

Query to any ASUS 970 AURA user. If you run 4Ghz undervolted (say 1.28v), does the motherboard retain Cool N Quiet, or does it get lost? I think i might buy an Aura in December after my Biostar debacle. I don't want to use the UD3P for at least some months. I need to feel free from the Gigabyte BIOS yoke.


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Query to any ASUS 970 AURA user. If you run 4Ghz undervolted (say 1.28v), does the motherboard retain Cool N Quiet, or does it get lost? I think i might buy an Aura in December after my Biostar debacle. I don't want to use the UD3P for at least some months. I need to feel free from the Gigabyte BIOS yoke.


I'm still doing my testing and I should make a large post about it in about 12 hours if thats good for you. I'm still trying to get what some settings do since it has more VRM and OC options than the Sabertooth 2.0 did. It almost has an ROG UEFI.

I think you must use offset if you want to run it with cool n quiet (read it somewhere), but that's something I'm going to check out as soon as I get my clocks stable on better voltages. My DS3P did undervolt and underclock itself and used cnq with no problem.

Do you have any specific demands you want me to test?

Edit: And yeah, I'm going to do a little comparison with the DS3P I had and what's better and what's not. So far I can tell you you shouldn't change your UD3P if you aren't having problems with it, especially since you are underclocking it mostly.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> I'm still doing my testing and I should make a large post about it in about 12 hours if thats good for you. I'm still trying to get what some settings do since it has more VRM and OC options than the Sabertooth 2.0 did. It almost has an ROG UEFI.
> 
> I think you must use offset if you want to run it with cool n quiet (read it somewhere), but that's something I'm going to check out as soon as I get my clocks stable on better voltages. My DS3P did undervolt and underclock itself and used cnq with no problem.
> 
> Do you have any specific demands you want me to test?
> 
> Edit: And yeah, I'm going to do a little comparison with the DS3P I had and what's better and what's not. So far I can tell you you shouldn't change your UD3P if you aren't having problems with it, especially since you are underclocking it mostly.


More oc options than Sabertooth? Offset? Oh lord, maybe i am asking for trouble... I like simple BIOSes. I don't want to learn an encyclopedia of new terms just for 4Ghz... Maybe it's better if i get an Asrock 970G3.1.

The problem with the UD3P, is that if you can keep Cool N Quiet,but you can't undervolt directly in BIOS. I don't have anything specific. Was just curious if you can undervolt while keeping Cool N Quiet...

Anyway, maybe at the end i will just put the UD3P back... I 've had enough with different BIOSes, maybe it's better to stick with what i know...

Thanks


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> More oc options than Sabertooth? Offset? Oh lord, maybe i am asking for trouble... I like simple BIOSes. I don't want to learn an encyclopedia of new terms just for 4Ghz... Maybe it's better if i get an Asrock 970G3.1.
> 
> The problem with the UD3P, is that if you can keep Cool N Quiet,but you can't undervolt directly in BIOS. I don't have anything specific. Was just curious if you can undervolt while keeping Cool N Quiet...
> 
> Anyway, maybe at the end i will just put the UD3P back... I 've had enough with different BIOSes, maybe it's better to stick with what i know...
> 
> Thanks


Yeah, it has at least 50% more options than Sabertooth for VRM and voltage control, I must say it's not that hard to get around it (though you might need a few hours) but its pretty similar to new Asus' ROG boards BIOS'. But it is really complicated since they give you total control, compared to the DS3P I had... it's 5x more options at least, but I didn't have LLC or anything on it.

It has an option to set the voltage manually or use offset. When you choose manual, you get a bunch of options, I haven't tried offset, not pretty sure how it works but will check it out. It's probably just setting a static value for voltage, and letting the mobo do it's job on the voltage, maybe allowing it to overvolt or undervolt to a specific value.

If you're just willing to undervolt it, I think it wouldn't be hard, but it might take some time. Because now they included frequencies for each VRM phase, response times... you name it.

Do you want me to try it out with the lowest voltage I can get for 4.0GHz and try cool n quiet, see what it does?

EDIT: I just saw what you wrote about keeping the UD3P, if it does the job for you, no need to change it. I've got it instead of the DS3P and even if it has a lot more options, at the end of the day, it doesn't do anything more spectacular than it, I will do more explaining later.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Yeah, it has at least 50% more options than Sabertooth for VRM and voltage control, I must say it's not that hard to get around it (though you might need a few hours) but its pretty similar to new Asus' ROG boards BIOS'. But it is really complicated since they give you total control, compared to the DS3P I had... it's 5x more options at least, but I didn't have LLC or anything on it.
> 
> It has an option to set the voltage manually or use offset. When you choose manual, you get a bunch of options, I haven't tried offset, not pretty sure how it works but will check it out. It's probably just setting a static value for voltage, and letting the mobo do it's job on the voltage, maybe allowing it to overvolt or undervolt to a specific value.
> 
> If you're just willing to undervolt it, I think it wouldn't be hard, but it might take some time. Because now they included frequencies for each VRM phase, response times... you name it.
> 
> Do you want me to try it out with the lowest voltage I can get for 4.0GHz and try cool n quiet, see what it does?
> 
> EDIT: I just saw what you wrote about keeping the UD3P, if it does the job for you, no need to change it. I've got it instead of the DS3P and even if it has a lot more options, at the end of the day, it doesn't do anything more spectacular than it, I will do more explaining later.


Few hours? Yeah, not for me. Thanks for the offer, but i want something simple. I have 2 UD3P, but i hate their BIOS. So i was thinking of another more friendly and undervolting friendly, but the ASUS seems too much trouble at this point.

So, no need to test for me, i don't want new BIOS headaches with settings i don't want to use anyway.


----------



## miklkit

1. Get some sleep!

2. While there are a lot of choices I bet that like the Sabertooth many of them can be left on auto. Even at 5 ghz I have some settings on auto and many of the ones I changed could be left on auto for normal clocks. Functionally. all the offset mode means is that you have to do a little math to figure your actual voltage.

3. Also, in the 2 ASUS boards I have installed they both have something called EZ Mode in their bios. I used it in one to overclock it and it has been running just fine for years. It looks like all you need to do is hit the green button instead of the red button to get just what you want.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> *1 don't watch videos. They are full of idiots
> *
> 2 same as usual
> 
> More volts.
> 
> As every reputable guide states.
> Add 0.1v to both cpu/nb and nb and follow the oc guide on ocn for fx cpus
> 
> 
> 
> That's quite a *factual* statement to be honest...
Click to expand...

Fixed for you
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> you are actually saying that ALL people that make video's about guides are idiots...? I actually learned a lot from watching those "idiots" to be honest..
> 
> For example, i learned A LOT from Britec computers, Singularity computers etc. etc.


1 since when did I say all? I said "full"
2 just because you think something is fixed does not mean it is. You just may not see the effects.
The same can be said, just because you think it is good does not mean they are., there is a reason most of the higher respected people on ocn or most respectable oc sites do not recommend videos specifically because of the people/ user behind it. But if and when they do recommend them, the videos themselves have been vetted.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Fixed for you
> 1 since when did I say all? I said "full"
> 2 just because you think something is fixed does not mean it is. You just may not see the effects.
> The same can be said, just because you think it is good does not mean they are., there is a reason most of the higher respected people on ocn or most respectable oc sites do not recommend videos specifically because of the people/ user behind it. But if and when they do recommend them, the videos themselves have been vetted.


1: Well, to be honest there are A LOT of idiots indeed who make video's, that being said, there are also A LOT Of forum threads without video's that are full of bad info as well. So to say its not a good idea to watch video's is rather poor advice IMO.

2: I understand what you are saying but that doesn't apply in my situation in many cases.. Thanks to him i was able to removed randsomewhare, fixed corruptions etc. etc. all because of his advice. That is factual and has nothing to do with me not seeing the effects, that it just plain fact... It also has nothing to do with me thinking he's good because i have proof that it really fixed many of my problems. So based on that, yeah, i can say he is good.

If you did some research BEFORE you comment about a guy you actually don't know, so in plain fact, you have no idea what you are talking about in the first place, you would know that he also has an forum which is full of information about Malware removal, Windows repairs etc. etc. His forum can be found here: http://www.briteccomputers.co.uk/

So, do me a favor and look over there and comment again. IF you think he is an idiot or whatever you want to call him, i would like to hear why and maybe learn from it. The reason i like his video's is that you can actually see what he is doing which is better and faster IMO because you can say a lot more when you speak in a small amount of time than when you type. I simply don't like to read page after page which can take up a lot of time to understand than watching a video that only takes a couple of minutes.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> 1. Get some sleep!
> 
> 2. While there are a lot of choices I bet that like the Sabertooth many of them can be left on auto. Even at 5 ghz I have some settings on auto and many of the ones I changed could be left on auto for normal clocks. Functionally. all the offset mode means is that you have to do a little math to figure your actual voltage.
> 
> 3. Also, in the 2 ASUS boards I have installed they both have something called EZ Mode in their bios. I used it in one to overclock it and it has been running just fine for years. It looks like all you need to do is hit the green button instead of the red button to get just what you want.


That's a software i suppose? I don't know, i am a simple guy, i don't want to fiddle with 10 settings to just go to 4Ghz and undervolt. Maybe it's more prudent to buy the Asrock 970G3.1. It's not Aura, but if it's anything like the extreme3, it can undervolt to 4Ghz with CnQ enabled. And it supports even 220W FX (marginally probably), so for 4Ghz undervolted i shouldn't have problems. And has good reviews (strangely) in Newegg... I mean, if i buy the Aura and can't go to 4Ghz undervolted and with CnQ i will shoot myself.


----------



## f1LL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> That's a software i suppose? I don't know, i am a simple guy, i don't want to fiddle with 10 settings to just go to 4Ghz and undervolt. Maybe it's more prudent to buy the Asrock 970G3.1. It's not Aura, but if it's anything like the extreme3, it can undervolt to 4Ghz with CnQ enabled. And it supports even 220W FX (marginally probably), so for 4Ghz undervolted i shouldn't have problems. And has good reviews (strangely) in Newegg... I mean, if i buy the Aura and can't go to 4Ghz undervolted and with CnQ i will shoot myself.


You mean the screenshot? That's the BIOS itself....in EZ Mode. It provides overclocking presets for those who don't want to dive into details.

If I was in your shoes and about to spend money on another AM3+ I'd get the Aura. I wouldn't want to bother getting another cheap board with maybe questionable voltage regulation or a quirky BIOS.
If I needed a board for a fun project or an office PC I would probably look into ASRock or Gigabyte's offerings (I'm actually thinking about it because I have a FX-6100 laying around collecting dust) but for my main rig I want a solid board. No matter what GHz or voltage I'm running.

I know this is probably not helping much but after reading about your journey i nthe last couple of days, I can safely say that I would've had it by now and just bought the Aura.

I don't know how many more settings the Aura's BIOS has compared to my Rev.1 Sabertooth but, as miklkit already said, I'd be surprised if you _have_ to use many of them. My guss is that you will be fine with just setting multiplier, vcore and power saving features.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f1LL*
> 
> You mean the screenshot? That's the BIOS itself....in EZ Mode. It provides overclocking presets for those who don't want to dive into details.
> 
> If I was in your shoes and about to spend money on another AM3+ I'd get the Aura. I wouldn't want to bother getting another cheap board with maybe questionable voltage regulation or a quirky BIOS.
> If I needed a board for a fun project or an office PC I would probably look into ASRock or Gigabyte's offerings (I'm actually thinking about it because I have a FX-6100 laying around collecting dust) but for my main rig I want a solid board. No matter what GHz or voltage I'm running.
> 
> I know this is probably not helping much but after reading about your journey i nthe last couple of days, I can safely say that I would've had it by now and just bought the Aura.
> 
> I don't know how many more settings the Aura's BIOS has compared to my Rev.1 Sabertooth but, as miklkit already said, I'd be surprised if you _have_ to use many of them. My guss is that you will be fine with just setting multiplier, vcore and power saving features.


Thanks for the explanation. What i want isn't even exactly overclock. Well, it is, because stock speed is 3.5Ghz, but i am only interested for 4Ghz undervolted. If i can keep Cool N Quiet doing that and without having to jump through BIOS configuration hoops, then it's fine. I am not overclocker, i try to keep a decent performance, while keeping the PC quiet. That's why i want 4Ghz undervolted.

I have 5 spare AM3+ motherboards, but they are either with marginal VRM (Asrock 970 extremee) or with BIOS that i detest (GIgabyte 970 UD3P). And since I am fed up with Gigabyte BIOS and i don't want to see it for some months, that's why i am looking for a new motherboard, that isn't BIOS hell (or labyrinth).


----------



## zila

My board arrived this morning and it is just beautiful. Now I just have to wait til the weekend to put it up on the bench and see what it does.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> My board arrived this morning and it is just beautiful. Now I just have to wait til the weekend to put it up on the bench and see what it does.


congrats man, looking forward to your results


----------



## f1LL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Thanks for the explanation. What i want isn't even exactly overclock. Well, it is, because stock speed is 3.5Ghz, but i am only interested for 4Ghz undervolted. If i can keep Cool N Quiet doing that and without having to jump through BIOS configuration hoops, then it's fine. I am not overclocker, i try to keep a decent performance, while keeping the PC quiet. That's why i want 4Ghz undervolted.
> 
> I have 5 spare AM3+ motherboards, but they are either with marginal VRM (Asrock 970 extremee) or with BIOS that i detest (GIgabyte 970 UD3P). And since I am fed up with Gigabyte BIOS and i don't want to see it for some months, that's why i am looking for a new motherboard, that isn't BIOS hell (or labyrinth).


Oh! I just remembered something. Do you use the "Manual" voltage setting or "Off-Set"? Because I remember reading about "Manual" causing C'n'Q to not function any more.
In the beginning I used "Manual" on my Sabertooth and C'n'Q did work fine with it, but after uprgading my memory and therefor reestablishing my overclock I couldn't get C'n'Q to work with the "Manual" voltage setting, so I switched to "Off-Set" and it worked again.

A Story with voltage setting on Gigabyte:
A buddy of mine has a Gigabyte G1 Sniper board (FM2+) with a A10-7850k. When I visited him and we dialed in mild OC I was kind of annoyed with the options for setting vCore. It only offers "Off-Set" but it doesn't give you the option to change the prefix (+/-) for the off-set. So that board did _not allow undervolting_ at all







And I'm pretty sure the CPU would've done 4GHz with lower than VID...

So, long story short:
If you haven't tried "Off-Set" voltage yet, you should. That might give you C'n'Q back. And I hope the BIOS on your boards let you change the prefix.


----------



## miklkit

Yes that is the first page of the bios. You can plug a usb stick in and then take pics of the bios. I did this when I first hit 5 ghz at someone's request and still have them for reference use. For instance here is the next page in the "advanced" section where you can see it set to offset and the +/- button as well. It also shows some settings on "auto". I for one would be interested in seeing bios pics from an Aura.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f1LL*
> 
> Oh! I just remembered something. Do you use the "Manual" voltage setting or "Off-Set"? Because I remember reading about "Manual" causing C'n'Q to not function any more.
> In the beginning I used "Manual" on my Sabertooth and C'n'Q did work fine with it, but after uprgading my memory and therefor reestablishing my overclock I couldn't get C'n'Q to work with the "Manual" voltage setting, so I switched to "Off-Set" and it worked again.
> 
> A Story with voltage setting on Gigabyte:
> A buddy of mine has a Gigabyte G1 Sniper board (FM2+) with a A10-7850k. When I visited him and we dialed in mild OC I was kind of annoyed with the options for setting vCore. It only offers "Off-Set" but it doesn't give you the option to change the prefix (+/-) for the off-set. So that board did _not allow undervolting_ at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I'm pretty sure the CPU would've done 4GHz with lower than VID...
> 
> So, long story short:
> If you haven't tried "Off-Set" voltage yet, you should. That might give you C'n'Q back. And I hope the BIOS on your boards let you change the prefix.


The Asrock extrem3 and the Gigabyte 970 UD3P don't have offsets. The Biostar was a weird bird, in that in order to overclock, you had to edit the P-State. In deed, the Gigabyte 970 UD3P, while it does allow undervolting, if you do so, you lose Cool N Quiet.

I think it's safer for me to go with Asrock 970G3.1, cause at least in my ASrock extreme3 BIOS, you can do all kind of changes and Cool N Quiet sticks. And i know the Asrock BIOS, it's simple and straightforward.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miklkit*
> Yes that is the first page of the bios. You can plug a usb stick in and then take pics of the bios. I did this when I first hit 5 ghz at someone's request and still have them for reference use. For instance here is the next page in the "advanced" section where you can see it set to offset and the +/- button as well. It also shows some settings on "auto". I for one would be interested in seeing bios pics from an Aura.


Ah, i see. They have offsets for all voltages...Weird... I think i ll pass... I don't want weird surprises. The Asrock should be more than enough for me and the BIOS must be more familiar and without Cool N Quiet problems.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Fixed for you
> 1 since when did I say all? I said "full"
> 2 just because you think something is fixed does not mean it is. You just may not see the effects.
> The same can be said, just because you think it is good does not mean they are., there is a reason most of the higher respected people on ocn or most respectable oc sites do not recommend videos specifically because of the people/ user behind it. But if and when they do recommend them, the videos themselves have been vetted.
> 
> 
> 
> 1: Well, to be honest there are A LOT of idiots indeed who make video's, that being said, there are also A LOT Of forum threads without video's that are full of bad info as well. So to say its not a good idea to watch video's is rather poor advice IMO.
> 
> 2: I understand what you are saying but that doesn't apply in my situation in many cases.. Thanks to him i was able to removed randsomewhare, fixed corruptions etc. etc. all because of his advice. That is factual and has nothing to do with me not seeing the effects, that it just plain fact... It also has nothing to do with me thinking he's good because i have proof that it really fixed many of my problems. So based on that, yeah, i can say he is good.
> 
> If you did some research BEFORE you comment about a guy you actually don't know, so in plain fact, you have no idea what you are talking about in the first place, you would know that he also has an forum which is full of information about Malware removal, Windows repairs etc. etc. His forum can be found here: http://www.briteccomputers.co.uk/
> 
> So, do me a favor and look over there and comment again. IF you think he is an idiot or whatever you want to call him, i would like to hear why and maybe learn from it. The reason i like his video's is that you can actually see what he is doing which is better and faster IMO because you can say a lot more when you speak in a small amount of time than when you type. I simply don't like to read page after page which can take up a lot of time to understand than watching a video that only takes a couple of minutes.
Click to expand...

I don't care about him so why waste my time? I also never said anything about him, or you, or your situations. I spoke in generalizations. Which I did for a reason. Which is why I don't need to check him out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> 1. Get some sleep!
> 
> 2. While there are a lot of choices I bet that like the Sabertooth many of them can be left on auto. Even at 5 ghz I have some settings on auto and many of the ones I changed could be left on auto for normal clocks. Functionally. all the offset mode means is that you have to do a little math to figure your actual voltage.
> 
> 3. Also, in the 2 ASUS boards I have installed they both have something called EZ Mode in their bios. I used it in one to overclock it and it has been running just fine for years. It looks like all you need to do is hit the green button instead of the red button to get just what you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a software i suppose? I don't know, i am a simple guy, i don't want to fiddle with 10 settings to just go to 4Ghz and undervolt. Maybe it's more prudent to buy the Asrock 970G3.1. It's not Aura, but if it's anything like the extreme3, it can undervolt to 4Ghz with CnQ enabled. And it supports even 220W FX (marginally probably), so for 4Ghz undervolted i shouldn't have problems. And has good reviews (strangely) in Newegg... I mean, if i buy the Aura and can't go to 4Ghz undervolted and with CnQ i will shoot myself.
Click to expand...

That's the ez bios (uefi) (there is also an "advanced" page. [Idr if they call it advanced or expert... or w.e.])


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I don't care about him so why waste my time? I also never said anything about him, or you, or your situations. I spoke in generalizations. Which I did for a reason. Which is why I don't need to check him out.
> That's the ez bios (uefi) (there is also an "advanced" page. [Idr if they call it advanced or expert... or w.e.])


advanced mode...f7 or click it...ive never had the automotive overclocking work worth a crap not one on any board ive used


----------



## tashcz

Okay guys now I have a question for you. I've delayed my Aura review since I'm still taking some things into consideration and really, something is weird about this board









If, lets say we get 4.5GHz with just the multiplier and standard 200MHz bus, will the performance be the same as getting the 4.5GHz with a lower multiplier and lets say a 210MHz bus? What's gonna be increased/decreased in terms of performance?

Hope you don't mind me here as an ex-sabertooth user, but I like the activity and atmosphere around here









quick edit and explanation, for some reason this board likes the bus increments, but not the multiplier ones, while the DS3P couldn't handle 201MHz bus for instance. While maintaining the same voltage, lowest I could do to get 4.5GHz, I've got 4.64GHz stable with the bus speed increased only, and if I was to change only the multiplier to get 4.6GHz things would get very, very hot and it'd need a lot more voltage. So 4.5GHz stable works with 1.45V and not a 0.01V less, but with the same volts (1.45) and same LLC I can get 4.64 but only by using the bus speed.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I don't care about him so why waste my time? I also never said anything about him, or you, or your situations. I spoke in generalizations. Which I did for a reason. Which is why I don't need to check him out.


You don't care and don't want to look into them but you want to generalize people that make good informative video's..? That doesn't make much sense dude. Its never a smart thing to generalize people to be honest. Its a broad statement or idea which is not based on facts because there may be examples of individuals or situations wherein the generalization does not apply. So to be honest, its rather poor advice you gave there.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Okay guys now I have a question for you. I've delayed my Aura review since I'm still taking some things into consideration and really, something is weird about this board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If, lets say we get 4.5GHz with just the multiplier and standard 200MHz bus, will the performance be the same as getting the 4.5GHz with a lower multiplier and lets say a 210MHz bus? What's gonna be increased/decreased in terms of performance?
> 
> Hope you don't mind me here as an ex-sabertooth user, but I like the activity and atmosphere around here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quick edit and explanation, for some reason this board likes the bus increments, but not the multiplier ones, while the DS3P couldn't handle 201MHz bus for instance. While maintaining the same voltage, lowest I could do to get 4.5GHz, I've got 4.64GHz stable with the bus speed increased only, and if I was to change only the multiplier to get 4.6GHz things would get very, very hot and it'd need a lot more voltage. So 4.5GHz stable works with 1.45V and not a 0.01V less, but with the same volts (1.45) and same LLC I can get 4.64 but only by using the bus speed.


Don't set goals but instead go where the hardware takes you. That means doing what the system wants you to do.

My GD80 likes multi with a topping of fsb. It's not good at fsb so I can only give it a little of it.

My Sabertooth will do multi only just fine. It will do fsb only just fine. It will not do multi AND fsb. So I went fsb only and started with the ram at 1600 so it would not go past stable speeds before the cpu got where I wanted it.

In general terms fsb does not have any advantage over multi until one gets to 4.8 ghz or so and then the overall system speedup delivers better performance. Faster ram doesn't make any difference until then either.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I don't care about him so why waste my time? I also never said anything about him, or you, or your situations. I spoke in generalizations. Which I did for a reason. Which is why I don't need to check him out.
> 
> 
> 
> You don't care and don't want to look into them but you want to generalize people that make good informative video's..? That doesn't make much sense dude. Its never a smart thing to generalize people to be honest. Its a broad statement or idea which is not based on facts because there may be examples of individuals or situations wherein the generalization does not apply. So to be honest, its rather poor advice you gave there.
Click to expand...

No. It is very good advice that you don't like


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> That's a software i suppose? I don't know, i am a simple guy, i don't want to fiddle with 10 settings to just go to 4Ghz and undervolt. Maybe it's more prudent to buy the Asrock 970G3.1. It's not Aura, but if it's anything like the extreme3, it can undervolt to 4Ghz with CnQ enabled. And it supports even 220W FX (marginally probably), so for 4Ghz undervolted i shouldn't have problems. And has good reviews (strangely) in Newegg... I mean, if i buy the Aura and can't go to 4Ghz undervolted and with CnQ i will shoot myself.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Don't set goals but instead go where the hardware takes you. That means doing what the system wants you to do.
> 
> My GD80 likes multi with a topping of fsb. It's not good at fsb so I can only give it a little of it.
> 
> My Sabertooth will do multi only just fine. It will do fsb only just fine. It will not do multi AND fsb. So I went fsb only and started with the ram at 1600 so it would not go past stable speeds before the cpu got where I wanted it.
> 
> In general terms fsb does not have any advantage over multi until one gets to 4.8 ghz or so and then the overall system speedup delivers better performance. Faster ram doesn't make any difference until then either.


Thanks man. I've got back to my loads of multi and a little bit of fsb instead of what I was doing and synthetic benchmarks show an improvement. So seems like multi does do more than fsb itself, even though fsb overclocks a bunch of other stuff. Difference in single core benches (I use Passmark, I know it's not the best but it does a fair job of telling me if something works faster or slower) is 1730 vs 1800 for same clocks, one achieved with 4.5GHz + 0.164Ghz and the faster one being 4.6GHz+0.04GHz


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Okay guys now I have a question for you. I've delayed my Aura review since I'm still taking some things into consideration and really, something is weird about this board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If, lets say we get 4.5GHz with just the multiplier and standard 200MHz bus, will the performance be the same as getting the 4.5GHz with a lower multiplier and lets say a 210MHz bus? What's gonna be increased/decreased in terms of performance?
> 
> Hope you don't mind me here as an ex-sabertooth user, but I like the activity and atmosphere around here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quick edit and explanation, for some reason this board likes the bus increments, but not the multiplier ones, while the DS3P couldn't handle 201MHz bus for instance. While maintaining the same voltage, lowest I could do to get 4.5GHz, I've got 4.64GHz stable with the bus speed increased only, and if I was to change only the multiplier to get 4.6GHz things would get very, very hot and it'd need a lot more voltage. So 4.5GHz stable works with 1.45V and not a 0.01V less, but with the same volts (1.45) and same LLC I can get 4.64 but only by using the bus speed.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't set goals but instead go where the hardware takes you. That means doing what the system wants you to do.
> 
> My GD80 likes multi with a topping of fsb. It's not good at fsb so I can only give it a little of it.
> 
> My Sabertooth will do multi only just fine. It will do fsb only just fine. It will not do multi AND fsb. So I went fsb only and started with the ram at 1600 so it would not go past stable speeds before the cpu got where I wanted it.
> 
> In general terms fsb does not have any advantage over multi until one gets to 4.8 ghz or so and then the overall system speedup delivers better performance. Faster ram doesn't make any difference until then either.
Click to expand...

It's fairly easy to get decent FSB clocks ( 320 +) using AM3 chips with the GD-80 , but getting high fsb clocks with Bulldozer and Piledriver requires a lot of finesse.

It's much easier to do as you say , clock up the multi and add a dab of fsb to finish off the overclock. With most of the settings left in auto or default with piledriver you should get close to 240 mhz before having issues.

I haven't pushed very hard for maximum FSB with my FX's seems to be the only time I've had to do the repair windows routine ( test bench setups).

On a side note, my GD - 80's windows install is from the first day I had my FX 8350 almost 4 years ago , the CHV-Z rig still has it's original install also ( about 6 months younger). Amazing that I haven't nerfed them with all the overclocking shenanigans I've done. I really think all those doom and gloom corrupted file warnings about overclocking are a bit oversold. I suppose it helps that I have the OS and storage on separate drives however.


----------



## tashcz

Hm. Seems like it might be a difference of UEFI settings and probably some chip difference between some of us. Anyway, another question. Did any of you monitor the watts from the wall socket while stress testing with, lets say intel burn test? If so, please tell me what voltages you used and the clocks. For some reason I think my 8320 got amp hungry.


----------



## tashcz

How safe is it to have 1.572V at full load while stress testing if I can keep the temps under 65C? I'll try lowering it later but for now it's doing its job, just wanna know if voltage kills the chip or the heat mostly.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> How safe is it to have 1.572V at full load while stress testing if I can keep the temps under 65C? I'll try lowering it later but for now it's doing its job, just wanna know if voltage kills the chip or the heat mostly.


there is a saying "if you can cool it you can clock it"

i know a guy @F3ERS 2 ASH3S whos been running near to 1.7volts(ithink) and hes still going to this day, just make sure you keep temps in check


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> there is a saying "if you can cool it you can clock it"
> 
> i know a guy @F3ERS 2 ASH3S whos been running near to 1.7volts(ithink) and hes still going to this day, just make sure you keep temps in check


Yeah, temps are under control







at least now when cold weather is comming. I'm getting 65c socket temps and around 60c on the cores now. I've had some stability issues before this but I think it has more to do with the current than voltage, but right now I'm in the process of lowering the voltage (going opposite than I should've done, but that's the voltage the system got me at some point), so I was just curious if it was smart to stress test it at all. If it's only the temps at that voltage it's cool.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Yeah, temps are under control
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at least now when cold weather is comming. I'm getting 65c socket temps and around 60c on the cores now. I've had some stability issues before this but I think it has more to do with the current than voltage, but right now I'm in the process of lowering the voltage (going opposite than I should've done, but that's the voltage the system got me at some point), so I was just curious if it was smart to stress test it at all. If it's only the temps at that voltage it's cool.


what clock are you at @that voltage?


----------



## tashcz

Unfortunately, only at 4.75GHz (I'm using the Aura) but seems like there's headroom for more MHz's or less voltage since it looks rock solid.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Unfortunately, only at 4.75GHz (I'm using the Aura) but seems like there's headroom for more MHz's or less voltage since it looks rock solid.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Unfortunately, only at 4.75GHz (I'm using the Aura) but seems like there's headroom for more MHz's or less voltage since it looks rock solid.


damn thats high , hope you can lower that voltage significantly


----------



## tashcz

Yeah, but that's LLC set to "high" with a BIOS setting of 1.45V. I have highest and extreme, don't wanna know what they will do. While doing basic stuff on the PC volts go up to 1.52V mostly.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Yeah, but that's LLC set to "high" with a BIOS setting of 1.45V. I have highest and extreme, don't wanna know what they will do. While doing basic stuff on the PC volts go up to 1.52V mostly.


highest is most likely like ultra high on the sabertooth, i use ultra high as i find it to be better than high....but thats just my point of view...this isnt a recommendation either lol...

just play around and see what fits you better but again 1.52 is high so you may of been given a pig of a chip









i find ibt avx takes more voltage to get stable than any other test you use...so bear this in mind too.....i always get ibt stable and then i knock down the volts a bit....never ever had a problem with doing it like this...others may disagree but it works for me and i would never lie about stability


----------



## tashcz

IBT is crazy and I don't use it. I just use BurnInTest from Passmark since that's proven enough. The difference between the draw from the socket is 100-150 watts! At 1.488V on 4.5GHz it drew 400W from my wall socket. It's never going to happen in any applications so it's really a lot. I feel more comfortable to let Burn In Test run for 20-30 minutes. So I completely understand you.

IBT got me here at first place. Now I'm trying to work with what voltages it required me to get stable on some lower frequency and I'm trying to balance the voltage and the maximum clocks I can get.

And yeah, my chip is hungry but I get around it







No point of getting another FX now. Sometimes it acts good, on a 4phase mobo it gave me 4.5GHz at 1.56V and that's a mobo not reccomended for overclocking.


----------



## umeng2002

My philosophy is that if you can code work for a computer - any code - any workload able to be ran by the CPU, the CPU should be stable enough to run it for a significant time.

For PCs at home, ANY program demand for HOURS.

For workstations, rendering stations, severs, ditto but for DAYS.

So as unrealistic as IBT is, I always make sure its stable at EXTREME setting for an hour or two.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> How safe is it to have 1.572V at full load while stress testing if I can keep the temps under 65C? I'll try lowering it later but for now it's doing its job, just wanna know if voltage kills the chip or the heat mostly.
> 
> 
> 
> there is a saying "if you can cool it you can clock it"
> 
> i know a guy @F3ERS 2 ASH3S whos been running near to 1.7volts(ithink) and hes still going to this day, just make sure you keep temps in check
Click to expand...

Exactly
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Yeah, but that's LLC set to "high" with a BIOS setting of 1.45V. I have highest and extreme, don't wanna know what they will do. While doing basic stuff on the PC volts go up to 1.52V mostly.


Ultra high is probably better for you
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> IBT is crazy and I don't use it. I just use BurnInTest from Passmark since that's proven enough. The difference between the draw from the socket is 100-150 watts! At 1.488V on 4.5GHz it drew 400W from my wall socket. It's never going to happen in any applications so it's really a lot. I feel more comfortable to let Burn In Test run for 20-30 minutes. So I completely understand you.
> 
> IBT got me here at first place. Now I'm trying to work with what voltages it required me to get stable on some lower frequency and I'm trying to balance the voltage and the maximum clocks I can get.
> 
> And yeah, my chip is hungry but I get around it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No point of getting another FX now. Sometimes it acts good, on a 4phase mobo it gave me 4.5GHz at 1.56V and that's a mobo not reccomended for overclocking.


Yea. I would stop. You may have that poor of a chip but not common.

You are probably missing a setting if you can not get it stable for normal Ibt. Ibt is a weak stress test that I can pass at voltage just above being able to boot...

What is your cooling and vrm cooling?

Can we please see bios screens of every setting you changed

Just food for thought on stability


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> It is not a stability test. Just a benchmark. But people keep trying to use them as stability tests (ie cinemark) lol...
> 
> Works great till your OS and all your files are so corrupted nothing is salvageable
> 
> I feel a need to repost this
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RagingCain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blakmumba;13120663*
> I seriously question the need for all this 24hr testing going on your brand new CPU, I see numerous cases here of guys bragging about their 24hr stress testing, or saying someones overclock is not stable because they haven't benched for 24 hrs.
> 
> 
> 
> How much experience have you had with overclocking? This attitude is generally reserved for amateur overclockers who have never had corrupted data.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> A stress test is running all of your CPU cores flat out for however long you run the test, unless of course a core drops out because your overclock is unstable, I see the need for short term testing say an hour or maybe 2, because it won't take that long for an unstable overclock to show itself, but 24hrs in my opinion is not necessary.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *
> I think you are confused. The error is not found because the CPU is at 100%. A major error, or more likely, many tiny irrecoverable errors, happen at any % of CPU usage. The programs are designed to find inconsistencies as fast as possible, utilizing all resources available to determine the stability. Its not lets see how hard we can squeeze your CPU till it breaks. Is it stressful? Sure, is the stress that causes error? No, that would be instability or heat. Another good way to test your cooling solution too I might add.*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> There is not a thing on this planet designed to last forever, your precious CPU included when companies like Intel and AMD, guarantee their CPUs for 3 yr warranty time period, they're confident their CPUs will actually go past that time period, however that calculation is based on 3 yrs and beyond of normal use.
> 
> They know their CPUs are capable of lasting under normal spec'd use longer than the 3 yrs or they would not warranty them that long.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure why this is even here. This has nothing to do with stability testing, unless you are assuming that all CPUs that are brand new should not be tested @ stock settings? Which a CPU should be tested to ensure its not defective. Rare, but it can happen.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Now the cold hard fact is that overclocking your CPU will shorten its lifespan, but we accept that for the additional speed we gain, most of us will replace that cpu with an upgrade before is life expectancy arrives anyway, so taking it out of specifications is acceptable.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Has nothing to do with stability testing. Its about error prevention.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> However that's with normal day to day use, surfing the web, audio and video editing and converting, gaming, office documentation Etc, and though serious bench stress testing is necessary to achieve a stable overclock, what damage does stress testing over a 24 hr time period and beyond, actually do to shorten the lifespan of your new CPU.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Why would you even overclock then?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> For example if you stress test your new quad core CPU for 24hrs, and all 4 cores are running at 100% for 24 hrs, how much normal daily processing is lost, because no daily application uses all 4 cores at 100% for 24hrs, so at least think about that when you overclock your CPU, and use at least some kind of wisdom in your stress testing.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Again its not the stress that creates the error, its stress that finds the error. *Errors can occur with as little as 1% core usage.* The alternative is to use your computer until one day, your boot sector is corrupted, and Windows 7 repair, can't fix the files as the damage has occurred widespread through your file-system. At this point you are even lucky to recover data off the hard drive. Assuming you are still not using an unstable overclock, recovering data, will most likely keep it corrupt/re-corrupt it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Because if you don't think you're adding to shortening the life of your CPU, you're wrong!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Stress testing your CPU, if its adequately cooled, is not shortening your hardwares life, its the extra voltage/clock cycles from the overclock if anything. It sounds like you have a ton still to learn / grasp and thats okay. Overclocking has many useful applications, such as a technical server upgrade, gaming, scientific calculations, protein folding, etc. Many of those demand stability for personal and professional reasons. Folding requires 100% accurate data, or its wasteful time for both the user and server, which anyday can provide a cure to cancer (hopefully.) A non tested overclock in that field is extremely frowned upon by many people who dedicate entire machines to just folding.
> 
> I am not saying you have to stress test your CPU, or it will die and kill everything in your computer, but you are not going to convince anyone who knows what they are doing that its a waste of time.
> 
> I don't get why people are ever against having a fully stable system? It takes about a day if you actually have good settings. Maybe apathy or general laziness, but still, it will create so many headaches in the long run trying to figure out why the computer just doesn't want to work today.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> There is no such thing as " a more realistic every day load" or my personal favorite " prime pushes too hard and I will never in real use do that ".....
> It is staying to carry over (that attitude) from intels as they can not oc that high without being unstable. Or to much heat load esp with avx2 instructions
> 
> That said this is not a one to anyone. If you want to not be stable don't. However just don't run around stating you are stable.
> 
> The only unrealistic thing is heat load that they produce but really it isn't unrealistic.... I have seen games do my max temps before
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> It is not a stability test. Just a benchmark. But people keep trying to use them as stability tests (ie cinemark) lol...
> 
> Works great till your OS and all your files are so corrupted nothing is salvageable
> 
> I feel a need to repost this
> There is no such thing as " a more realistic every day load" or my personal favorite " prime pushes too hard and I will never in real use do that ".....
> It is staying to carry over (that attitude) from intels as they can not oc that high without being unstable. Or to much heat load esp with avx2 instructions
> 
> That said this is not a one to anyone. If you want to not be stable don't. However just don't run around stating you are stable.
> The only unrealistic thing is heat load that they produce but really it isn't unrealistic.... I have seen games do my max temps before
> 
> 
> 
> Ah, i see. I thought it had some stability test incorporated. Very instructive post and i will also re-post another post from Raging Cane, which i always keep in my oc.net links:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1500294/why-some-people-dont-like-prime95/60#post_22531179
Click to expand...


----------



## miklkit

I never actually watched the draw from the wall before and found it to be all over the place in IBT. It varied from 380 to 500 watts.

It sounds like you are not using LLC at all. What Is see in my GD80 is that the board will show higher voltages at lower loads and lower voltages at higher loads so only what it is doing at 100% loads is important. This is to compensate for vdroop.

Less LLC in the Sabertooth means more vdroop so more static voltage is needed to cover the vdroop. Higher LLC means less or no vdroop so lower static voltages are needed. Also higher LLC adds more heat. My compromise is a little vdroop and less heat. So experiment but really only pay attention to 100% loads.

I have two 8370s. One went straight to 5 for me and the other is good for 4.8-4.9 or so. Maybe. I never bothered to find out.


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I never actually watched the draw from the wall before and found it to be all over the place in IBT. It varied from 380 to 500 watts.
> 
> It sounds like you are not using LLC at all. What Is see in my GD80 is that the board will show higher voltages at lower loads and lower voltages at higher loads so only what it is doing at 100% loads is important. This is to compensate for vdroop.
> 
> Less LLC in the Sabertooth means more vdroop so more static voltage is needed to cover the vdroop. Higher LLC means less or no vdroop so lower static voltages are needed. Also higher LLC adds more heat. My compromise is a little vdroop and less heat. So experiment but really only pay attention to 100% loads.
> 
> I have two 8370s. One went straight to 5 for me and the other is good for 4.8-4.9 or so. Maybe. I never bothered to find out.


Thanks man.

I get all your words, but I just feel IBT is too much. Really hard to get it stable and requires much more voltage than Burn In Test I was using. One hour of CPU and RAM stress testing usually did the job - even though it's not as fast as IBT but while using a 630W PSU and a OC'd 8320 with a GTX970, it wouldn't be normal for the CPU to pull 500W and the GPU to pull 200W since I'd get over the max current the PSU can give. IBT is really weird and stresses much more than needed I think. Never had an issue with a burn in test stable system.

Anyway, are you saying that LLC should just keep a constant voltage and not up it under load? Since I was using it to up my voltage under full load to maintain stability, like from 1.52 to 1.56.

And I'm thinking of swapping my 8320 for a 8320E or 8370E since I'm needing 1.560V now for stability on 4.7GHz, on Aura. Used to be 1.47V or 1.50V on Sabertooth as I remember.


----------



## Mega Man

first - stability is subjective, do what you want. but most clubs have a minimum requirement - aka - you will be asked for proof of stability and you may not meet that, which again is fine, if you dont want to or dont feel the need to, who are we to tell you you are wrong.

second, if you are only using ibt ( regular non avx version) why waste the energy ? just set it and if it boots run it. ibt is all of but useless and will not show instability.

i understand ibt used to work fine, but cpus have progressed far since it was released and it does not even make most break a sweat- thats why your avx uses more voltage to be stable- they are actually working now


----------



## Minotaurtoo

yeah, the non avx edition of ibt isn't worth using... the avx edition works pretty good on all current amd cpu's... but with intel I tend to use OCCT now... not sure really how well it does, but I notice it does generate some heat when using the linepack test.


----------



## InfamousTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Thanks man.
> 
> I get all your words, but I just feel IBT is too much. Really hard to get it stable and requires much more voltage than Burn In Test I was using. One hour of CPU and RAM stress testing usually did the job - even though it's not as fast as IBT but while using a 630W PSU and a OC'd 8320 with a GTX970, it wouldn't be normal for the CPU to pull 500W and the GPU to pull 200W since I'd get over the max current the PSU can give. IBT is really weird and stresses much more than needed I think. Never had an issue with a burn in test stable system.
> 
> Anyway, are you saying that LLC should just keep a constant voltage and not up it under load? Since I was using it to up my voltage under full load to maintain stability, like from 1.52 to 1.56.
> 
> And I'm thinking of swapping my 8320 for a 8320E or 8370E since I'm needing 1.560V now for stability on 4.7GHz, on Aura. Used to be 1.47V or 1.50V on Sabertooth as I remember.


Anything over 1.475V exceeds the operating limits of Vishera (32nm SHP SOI) and will cause permanent damage/degredation to the chip. This can range from reduced lifespan to lower maximum overclock to inability to remain stable at stock speed. Power consumption is also insane at over 1.4V so pushing that far doesn't really make any sense and is a contributing reason to why we are seeing AM3+ motherboard failures after 2-3 years of operating at increased voltages and clockspeeds.

LLC should be set to a value where it doesn't increase voltage during load while keeping VDROOP minimal. On previous Asus motherboards the second highest setting was usually best.


----------



## tashcz

Looks like I was stuck with that DS3P for a long time and forgot how LLC is supposed to work.

I can keep stable under load - Burn in test - ran it for 6 hrs and passed - IBT also passess. But what causes problems is leaving the PC on at the night because in the morning I see the Windows 8.1 recovery screen. Looks like it will need 1.56V constantly, not only under load, to be stable. 1.524 while idling isn't enough.

And considering other posts, seems like the chip degraded for those 4 years, even though I always monitored core, VRM and socket temperatures.

Or playing simple, I degraded it







But must saved it served well for 4 years on 4.7GHz+. Will try to see if it can still run stable at constant 1.56V and consider getting an E version, if that is any good in october 2016.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfamousTR*
> 
> Anything over 1.475V exceeds the operating limits of Vishera (32nm SHP SOI) and will cause permanent damage/degredation to the chip. This can range from reduced lifespan to lower maximum overclock to inability to remain stable at stock speed. Power consumption is also insane at over 1.4V so pushing that far doesn't really make any sense and is a contributing reason to why we are seeing AM3+ motherboard failures after 2-3 years of operating at increased voltages and clockspeeds.
> 
> LLC should be set to a value where it doesn't increase voltage during load while keeping VDROOP minimal. On previous Asus motherboards the second highest setting was usually best.


I'll leave it to the experts to chime in, but in my experience these chips are beasts... 1.55v is the stated recommended limit from AMD last I checked.... mine defaults to over 1.45 @ base clocks and peaks out to 1.5 @ turbo clocks 9590... this is based on measurements not vid.

edit: taken from vishera owners thread...

General Information:

- 70C is the maximum recommended temp for the CPU Core temp reading.
- 1.55v is the maximum recommended voltage.
- Stock HyperTransport speed is 2600Mhz.
- Stock NorthBridge speed is 2200Mhz.


----------



## miklkit

Your 8320 sounds a lot like my old 8350. The most I could get out of it was 4.8 and I pushed it as hard as 1.6 volts on the Sabertooth. I used regular LLC and vcore would vary from a high of 1.608 to a low of 1.524 to 1.536 at 100% load. If your vcore is going up at 100% load, then you are using too much LLC in my opinion. The most that others have used keeps the vcore steady at all loads while I accept a little vdroop in the interest of lower temperatures.

Stress testing is important, and not all tests are created equal. As I see it IBT AVX comes closest to real world loads what with games pushing the cpu harder than before. The argument that you never see loads like that are not as persuasive as it used to be and you have to know your system is stable at high loads and temperatures.


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Your 8320 sounds a lot like my old 8350. The most I could get out of it was 4.8 and I pushed it as hard as 1.6 volts on the Sabertooth. I used regular LLC and vcore would vary from a high of 1.608 to a low of 1.524 to 1.536 at 100% load. If your vcore is going up at 100% load, then you are using too much LLC in my opinion. The most that others have used keeps the vcore steady at all loads while I accept a little vdroop in the interest of lower temperatures.
> 
> Stress testing is important, and not all tests are created equal. As I see it IBT AVX comes closest to real world loads what with games pushing the cpu harder than before. The argument that you never see loads like that are not as persuasive as it used to be and you have to know your system is stable at high loads and temperatures.


Yeah, my vcore is going up under load, first to 1.548, and after some tome it gets to 1.56V. I thought it would be better to have stability under full load, never thought idle would crash it. I was stuck on constant 1.60V for some time on my DS3P and forgot a few things. Seems like I'll need to try 1.548V at idle and 1.56V under full load to maintain stability.

Biggest problem now is that stress tests pass and full load isn't the issue, it's the idle state that messes with the system. But with LLC messing with idle voltages too, it's kind of hard to get the needed LLC level and voltage setting in BIOS to get that 1.548-1.560 under load.

This all started when I was setting the pump to work at 50% PWM when under 40C socket temps. At one point I saw it was 0RPM and the core temps were 70c, I powered the system off imidiatly, and I had some trouble booting then, did the CMOS reset, flashed the BIOS again, but I'm getting those weird things happening on my system now that didn't happen. Either the chip really degraded or it's the combo of a bad chip + wrong power settings in the BIOS. Anyway I'm getting pretty annoyed with this.


----------



## miklkit

I've heard of people having crashing at idle problems but never experienced it meself. The speculation is that when the cpu comes under a sudden load the voltage doesn't pick up fast enough and it starves out and dies. Do you have CnQ running? It might help.


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I've heard of people having crashing at idle problems but never experienced it meself. The speculation is that when the cpu comes under a sudden load the voltage doesn't pick up fast enough and it starves out and dies. Do you have CnQ running? It might help.


Nope, still haven't enable cnq, I'm thinking of using those power options when I'm 100% sure my overclock is stable, and since I got the board a few days ago, it still needed some testing. I'll try with constant 1.548V on idle and 1.56 or 1.572 on load and see what happens. But the PC must be idle for the whole night and crash *not* in order for me to see if it's stable.


----------



## InfamousTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I'll leave it to the experts to chime in, but in my experience these chips are beasts... 1.55v is the stated recommended limit from AMD last I checked.... mine defaults to over 1.45 @ base clocks and peaks out to 1.5 @ turbo clocks 9590... this is based on measurements not vid.
> 
> edit: taken from vishera owners thread...
> 
> General Information:
> 
> - 70C is the maximum recommended temp for the CPU Core temp reading.
> - 1.55v is the maximum recommended voltage.
> - Stock HyperTransport speed is 2600Mhz.
> - Stock NorthBridge speed is 2200Mhz.


I don't know where they have come up with 1.55V as the FX Performance tuning guide states 1.50V is the maximum voltage when using conventional cooling methods. http://www.amd.com/Documents/AMD_FX_Performance_Tuning_Guide.pdf

The maximum voltage also differs with individual CPU leakage current where low leakage chips can sustain higher voltages than high leakage chips. AMD also implements Vdroop to reduce voltage and power consumption when the CPU is under heavy load and this has an effect on the specification as well.

The temperature information is rather poorly worded since Zambezi/Vishera has no temperature sensors for individual cores and many monitoring programs report the wrong value (tCTL instead of tCase).


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfamousTR*
> 
> I don't know where they have come up with 1.55V as the FX Performance tuning guide states 1.50V is the maximum voltage when using conventional cooling methods. http://www.amd.com/Documents/AMD_FX_Performance_Tuning_Guide.pdf
> 
> The maximum voltage also differs with individual CPU leakage current where low leakage chips can sustain higher voltages than high leakage chips. AMD also implements Vdroop to reduce voltage and power consumption when the CPU is under heavy load and this has an effect on the specification as well.
> 
> The temperature information is rather poorly worded since Zambezi/Vishera has no temperature sensors for individual cores and many monitoring programs report the wrong value (tCTL instead of tCase).


Another thing I remember is the max socket temp of 62c on continuous use? Even though most of us go away with under 70.


----------



## InfamousTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Another thing I remember is the max socket temp of 62c on continuous use? Even though most of us go away with under 70.


61.1c to be precise for 125W TDP and 57c for 220W TDP. 95W an lower can go up to 70c. Frequency scaling decreases after 50c and stops completely after 62c


----------



## gertruude

we in the visheras thread go by:

- 70C is the maximum recommended temp for the CPU Core temp reading.
- 1.55v is the maximum recommended voltage.
- Stock HyperTransport speed is 2600Mhz.
- Stock NorthBridge speed is 2200Mhz


----------



## miklkit

That 70C number comes from AMD Overdrive doesn't it?

I know that 1.55v and 70C is a no no. At 1.524v when mine hits 70C it destabilizes and starts spitting out memory errors. Sometimes it does it at 68C too.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> That 70C number comes from AMD Overdrive doesn't it?
> 
> I know that 1.55v and 70C is a no no. At 1.524v when mine hits 70C it destabilizes and starts spitting out memory errors. Sometimes it does it at 68C too.


I cant remember where it came from its been awhile now, so forgive my memory im getting old
i know it was thoroughly researched if you search through 6000+ pages im sure youll find it


----------



## tashcz

One question to clarify my knowledge of LLC: For, lets say. 5GHz, I need to have the same voltage at load and while idle, and it should not lower itself or get it higher than set? No undervolting is possible if I don't clock it down using power options?

What I mean is, I can't use extreme LLC like "cool n quiet" or stuff like that, to pull up my volts only while under load?


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> One question to clarify my knowledge of LLC: For, lets say. 5GHz, I need to have the same voltage at load and while idle, and it should not lower itself or get it higher than set? No undervolting is possible if I don't clock it down using power options?
> 
> What I mean is, I can't use extreme LLC like "cool n quiet" or stuff like that, to pull up my volts only while under load?


in my experience the best llc is the one that results in as little voltage change as possible... I've never used the extreme setting as it will overvolt severely under load... I'm using 1 step over high... I think on this board it's called ultra high... been a while since I've been in the bios on this board lol... kinda got it to 5ghz and just left it...


----------



## tashcz

Well on Aura it seems to suck. On ultra high I boot up with 1.572V and under load I drop to 1.548V, now and there bumping to 1.56V. If I set it to extreme, I'm going to get lets say, 1.524V on boot and 1.56-1.572V on load. So seems like they should give us better control over that. I can't get those 1.56V I need under load without 1.572V without load. FFS.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

on ultra high mine gains a little voltage like 10mv under load... but on high it will lose 20mv or so... so I opted for ultra high.... each board is different and I imagine the cpu type affects it as well... you just have to poke about and find the setting that works for you.... just be careful... you don't want extreme voltage swings... they can be bad for pc health.


----------



## tashcz

I went from "lowering voltage under load" to "pushing more volts when under load" again, since it felt painful to see 1.572V when the PC was idleing. We'll see how it goes. Probably my chip degraded from all the stuff I did. Now I'm usually getting +15 or +20 mV when under load, but I still wonder if the idle vcore can keep the system stable. That's something only time can tell now. I'ma give it a day or two like this and if it passes, enable the power saving options.

For a second I was like... hell, I'm going to get the 8370E and get this stuff working again with a better binned chip... but man, old tech can really make you spend more money than you would on new stuff.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfamousTR*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Thanks man.
> 
> I get all your words, but I just feel IBT is too much. Really hard to get it stable and requires much more voltage than Burn In Test I was using. One hour of CPU and RAM stress testing usually did the job - even though it's not as fast as IBT but while using a 630W PSU and a OC'd 8320 with a GTX970, it wouldn't be normal for the CPU to pull 500W and the GPU to pull 200W since I'd get over the max current the PSU can give. IBT is really weird and stresses much more than needed I think. Never had an issue with a burn in test stable system.
> 
> Anyway, are you saying that LLC should just keep a constant voltage and not up it under load? Since I was using it to up my voltage under full load to maintain stability, like from 1.52 to 1.56.
> 
> And I'm thinking of swapping my 8320 for a 8320E or 8370E since I'm needing 1.560V now for stability on 4.7GHz, on Aura. Used to be 1.47V or 1.50V on Sabertooth as I remember.
> 
> 
> 
> Anything over 1.475V exceeds the operating limits of Vishera (32nm SHP SOI) and will cause permanent damage/degredation to the chip. This can range from reduced lifespan to lower maximum overclock to inability to remain stable at stock speed. Power consumption is also insane at over 1.4V so pushing that far doesn't really make any sense and is a contributing reason to why we are seeing AM3+ motherboard failures after 2-3 years of operating at increased voltages and clockspeeds.
> 
> LLC should be set to a value where it doesn't increase voltage during load while keeping VDROOP minimal. On previous Asus motherboards the second highest setting was usually best.
Click to expand...

Yea.... no.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *InfamousTR*
> 
> Anything over 1.475V exceeds the operating limits of Vishera (32nm SHP SOI) and will cause permanent damage/degredation to the chip. This can range from reduced lifespan to lower maximum overclock to inability to remain stable at stock speed. Power consumption is also insane at over 1.4V so pushing that far doesn't really make any sense and is a contributing reason to why we are seeing AM3+ motherboard failures after 2-3 years of operating at increased voltages and clockspeeds.
> 
> LLC should be set to a value where it doesn't increase voltage during load while keeping VDROOP minimal. On previous Asus motherboards the second highest setting was usually best.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll leave it to the experts to chime in, but in my experience these chips are beasts... 1.55v is the stated recommended limit from AMD last I checked.... mine defaults to over 1.45 @ base clocks and peaks out to 1.5 @ turbo clocks 9590... this is based on measurements not vid.
> 
> edit: taken from vishera owners thread...
> 
> General Information:
> 
> - 70C is the maximum recommended temp for the CPU Core temp reading.
> - 1.55v is the maximum recommended voltage.
> - Stock HyperTransport speed is 2600Mhz.
> - Stock NorthBridge speed is 2200Mhz.
Click to expand...

Iirc it is 1.5v but meh. Some push 1.7v and I push 1.65 on one of mine without issue
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Well on Aura it seems to suck. On ultra high I boot up with 1.572V and under load I drop to 1.548V, now and there bumping to 1.56V. If I set it to extreme, I'm going to get lets say, 1.524V on boot and 1.56-1.572V on load. So seems like they should give us better control over that. I can't get those 1.56V I need under load without 1.572V without load. FFS.


I really doubt it. You are dealing with a new board you need to learn it.

If you are not stable die to 0.005v you have issues.

If you would like some help please show us some bios screens.

If I can push 1.8v on suicide runs and not kill it and trip on core temp. Several times. You will be fine. (This is on water) i am one of few who did degrade his chip, 1.65 (iirc) though cpu/nb..... no Bueno


----------



## tashcz

Okay, I think I found out a reason for my failures. Noticed it before but thought it might be the sensors on the mobo not calibrated... 12V from the PSU is giving me 11.78V without load, and under load it can drop to 11.45V or so. It's late now to get my multimeter and check if the reported voltages are correct, but I got down and put my ear next to the PSU and I can hear it buzzing, it didn't do that before. It's a thermaltake 630W SE.

Speaking of the new options, yeah, you're mostly right, but the Sabertooth R2 had all those options and didn't get me into any trouble. With LLC on ultra it gave me just a small voltage bump, but never overheated, caused stability issues, undervolted etc. But we'll have to stop all of this CPU/Mobo discussing untill we see if the PSU is doing right. Before it did go to 11.9V but that was kind of normal, probably even within ATX standards, but half a volt is just too much. Also HWmonitor reported a minimum voltage of 3.5V on the 12V rail during a Firestrike run. Maybe the caps are busted., but 3.5V instead of 12V would deffinitely shut the system down.


----------



## miklkit

Thermaltake has a bad reputation and they only get worse after a few years. I switched from a Thermaltake 850 watt to a Seasonic 850 watt unit and noticed the difference right away. There is such a thing as clean and dirty power and these two brands show what it is. You will get a better running system with smoother power that isn't bouncing all over the place with a quality psu.


----------



## tashcz

Yeah... seems like buying the Aura instead of the R3 was a good choice, since there will be like 700EUR+ worth of components to get after a couple of months switching to a different platform and getting another PSU.

Btw, what did you notice when you got your seasonic?


----------



## Mega Man

Please don't buy a psu due to brand. Buy a good product not a good brand name


----------



## miklkit

Yeah it doesn't have to be a Seasonic as there are other good brands out there. I just played it safe and payed a little more for the name.

What I noticed is that the 12v, 5v, and 3.3 v numbers don't change much. They aren't always running up and down but hardly move at all. That is called "clean" power. That should make life easier for the VRMs.


----------



## Mega Man

even seasonic makes poor psus ( they are an oem, and will make what ever you want/ willing to pay for )


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> even seasonic makes poor psus ( they are an oem, and will make what ever you want/ willing to pay for )


i always pm shilka and ask for a recommendation...on this last one no one had tested this psu and its still hard to find a review for it...it does fine but i dont max it out either and i keep it cool which was one of the negatives shilka did in his writeup of this line of psus a year after i bought it


----------



## tashcz

Seems like this was a false alarm. Daytime came, took my multimeter and measured voltages on molex since it's a single rail PSU. At 70W load, I get 12.06V, and under 400W load, I get 11.85-11.90V. So it's the mobo's 12V sensor that's causing the issues, not sure why it's fluctuating that much.

Any reason to return the mobo to the shop for that? I don't mind faulty 12V readings as long as they don't mess something else.


----------



## tashcz

Another thing I'd like to ask... Right now, I have a DS3P I don't use and a voltage leaking 8320 that takes 1.56V to be stable at 4.7GHz.

There are 8370E's on sale at the local shop. Considering it's the end of 2016, how smart would it be to sell the DS3P and the 8320 and get the 8370E?


----------



## mus1mus

It's normal for the board to give out readings like that.

Is the 8320E bad to begin with? Getting an 8370E only means higher stock clocks and all. Overclockability is still a lottery.


----------



## tashcz

Not sure if you read, but the "good" values were provided by the multimeter, not the board. Board is all over the place with 12V readings.

And speaking of the CPU... could it be worse than 1.56V for 4.7GHz stable?

How much would the shop hate me if I binned my CPU?


----------



## BinaryBummer

I feel like a Noob again.. This R3.0 board really has a lot of settings. I just bumped up the 8370 to 4.555Ghz but I need to figure out how to change my boot order. Seems it is not picking up my M.2 or most my drives. A bit confused as when I installed the mobo and went into the bios it showed all the drive with UEIF/Legacy

So how do I change the boot up to show this again?

Thx


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> *Not sure if you read, but the "good" values were provided by the multimeter*, not the board. Board is all over the place with 12V readings.
> 
> And speaking of the CPU... could it be worse than 1.56V for 4.7GHz stable?
> 
> _How much would the shop hate me if I binned my CPU?_


*I got you the first time.







*

1.56 for 4.7 is terribad.

_Do try._


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> *I got you the first time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 1.56 for 4.7 is terribad.
> 
> _Do try._


Probably will, it doesn't cost me anything else than my old board that I don't intend to use and a CPU I'd like to change. So it's basicly a trade, and I get a 3 year warranty.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> I feel like a Noob again.. This R3.0 board really has a lot of settings. I just bumped up the 8370 to 4.555Ghz but I need to figure out how to change my boot order. Seems it is not picking up my M.2 or most my drives. A bit confused as when I installed the mobo and went into the bios it showed all the drive with UEIF/Legacy
> 
> So how do I change the boot up to show this again?
> 
> Thx


You should have all your drives listed on the EZ mode, than click and drag the ones you want to the left side?


----------



## mus1mus

We seldom see a 4.7 needing 1.56V. It may be something else, you know,.


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> We seldom see a 4.7 needing 1.56V. It may be something else, you know,.


Would love to say it is, but I don't think so any more. The CPU probably degraded the last 3-4 years. When I was using the Sabertooth R2.0 a year ago, I could get [email protected] easily. Now it's a mission impossible. Even if I was doing something wrong very wrong, 1.53V should probably be enough for it.

LLC is nicely set, no more big changes except +10mV, all power saving options disabled, VRM settings set to max (130% or 140% where possible), FSB isn't touched, RAM is left at stock, with added voltage so it works at 1.55V for increased stability. Can't think of anything else that can cause a problem. VRM is cooled by a Noctua.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> You should have all your drives listed on the EZ mode, than click and drag the ones you want to the left side?


Thats what I am saying I got a USB CD/DVD and my Mushkin ECO 3 SSD showing but none of my other drive or my M.2 Prime boot drive..

What gives.. I have it set to UEIF/Legacy in bios


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Would love to say it is, but I don't think so any more. The CPU probably degraded the last 3-4 years. When I was using the Sabertooth R2.0 a year ago, I could get [email protected] easily. Now it's a mission impossible. Even if I was doing something wrong very wrong, 1.53V should probably be enough for it.
> 
> LLC is nicely set, no more big changes except +10mV, all power saving options disabled, VRM settings set to max (130% or 140% where possible), FSB isn't touched, RAM is left at stock, with added voltage so it works at 1.55V for increased stability. Can't think of anything else that can cause a problem. VRM is cooled by a Noctua.


I see. We also seldom see degradation.







/JK

So the plan is to get a new board and CPU?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> We seldom see a 4.7 needing 1.56V. It may be something else, you know,.
> 
> 
> 
> Would love to say it is, but I don't think so any more. The CPU probably degraded the last 3-4 years. When I was using the Sabertooth R2.0 a year ago, I could get [email protected] easily. Now it's a mission impossible. Even if I was doing something wrong very wrong, 1.53V should probably be enough for it.
> 
> LLC is nicely set, no more big changes except +10mV, all power saving options disabled, VRM settings set to max (130% or 140% where possible), FSB isn't touched, RAM is left at stock, with added voltage so it works at 1.55V for increased stability. Can't think of anything else that can cause a problem. VRM is cooled by a Noctua.
Click to expand...

How many times do we need to ask for bios.

If that is all you changed in bios I can see why you are not stable. I think the problem is likely not your chip. Now it could be. But if you post bios screen shots of anything you have changed we may be able to help.

Our you can mosey likely waste your time and money and buy another
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> You should have all your drives listed on the EZ mode, than click and drag the ones you want to the left side?
> 
> 
> 
> Thats what I am saying I got a USB CD/DVD and my Mushkin ECO 3 SSD showing but none of my other drive or my M.2 Prime boot drive..
> 
> What gives.. I have it set to UEIF/Legacy in bios
Click to expand...

I don't recall the name of the setting. But there is one. Iirc the options are ide, ahci and raid. Make sure you are on ahci.
Otherwise we will need bios screens to help (all bios screens but monitoring tabs please )


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> How many times do we need to ask for bios.
> 
> If that is all you changed in bios I can see why you are not stable. I think the problem is likely not your chip. Now it could be. But if you post bios screen shots of anything you have changed we may be able to help.
> 
> Our you can mosey likely waste your time and money and buy another
> I don't recall the name of the setting. But there is one. Iirc the options are ide, ahci and raid. Make sure you are on ahci.
> Otherwise we will need bios screens to help (all bios screens but monitoring tabs please )


Here you go, sorry 'bout that.








Hwmonitor:


----------



## Mega Man

this i can work with. ( i need to just make typical asus oc settings )

1 set cpu/nb manually to 1.2 ( may take 1.2-1.3 generally 1.2 - 1.25 is more then enough esp at stock cpu/np {imc} too much of this will cause instability
2 set nb to +0 .1v ( 1.2 v this is a huge deal when ocing ime )
3 cpu/nb llc set to high ( again extreme llc over volts, which again can cause instability )

please note the below WILL heat up your vrm but this will help MAKE SURE TO USE ACTIVE cooling on vrm

4 cpu power phase control to extreme ( or w.e. the highest it idr off the top of my head )
5 cpu voltage freq, playing with this can help again causes heat 500 is a good place to start generally -
6 cpu power duty control, switch to current ( or the other option, again exact name escapes me but it is the only other option )
7 cpu and cpu/nb power response control ( 2 different settings ~ ) to max

i bet ( ESP WITH northbridge @ 1.2 and less volts on cpu/nb ) this helps

sorry for the delay, the baby was crying


----------



## tashcz

No probs man, family life before anything









I tried all the settings you gave me, set the cpu power duty control to extreme since that's the one I have, anything except that is set as you described.

I tried lowering the voltage to 1.5V in the BIOS, so here's what I get, same error like before, after 2nd run. Note that I have a 120mm high-pressure fan blowing on to the socket and the VRM area behind the mobo while doing this:



Maybe give it a small voltage bump again, though I'm through the socket temp limit? The VRMs are ice cool with 2 40mms blowing away from them though.


----------



## mus1mus

That looks like a very low VCore issue. But wait,

Can you try a lower clock speed so we can see if it stabilizes?

Maybe 4.5GHZ at 1.4 VCore
1.65 VDIMM or RAM Voltage
VDDA to 2.7?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> I feel like a Noob again.. This R3.0 board really has a lot of settings. I just bumped up the 8370 to 4.555Ghz but I need to figure out how to change my boot order. Seems it is not picking up my M.2 or most my drives. A bit confused as when I installed the mobo and went into the bios it showed all the drive with UEIF/Legacy
> 
> So how do I change the boot up to show this again?
> 
> Thx


Copy some of my setting, my system is stable as a rock. This R3.0 BIOS is much the same as the R2.0 which i had before.

Here are all my BIOS settings:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



























Hope you can take your advantage with these settings, if you have more questions, feel free to ask.


----------



## tashcz

I tried 4.5GHz with 1.45V in BIOS. Got 1.464 on Windows boot.

Failed.



There deffinetly isn't any heat issues, I'm nowhere near an unstable limit. And I doubt a normal FX chip would require more than 1.5V for 4.5GHz on a 7+1 phase board.

Also, what does the "Thermal control" in Digi+ settings do? On mine its set to 130, on Hurricane's Sabertooth it's 151?


----------



## tashcz

I can pass "standard" with those settings, but can't pass "high" on IBT.

EDIT:

Stable at 4.6GHz @ 1.548V



But with all fans maxed out all time.

So yeah, my theory for 1.56V for 4.7GHz is probably correct.

So, bad chip or what?


----------



## mus1mus

Thermal Throttling values may just be threshold levels. Just max it out.

I see the app you are running is not the AVX version. It may affect things.

Can you try to download Y-Cruncher and run the app as it has a lot of test suites that focuses on various parts of the system?

You can also verify if you are using a new install, there are Windows requisite updates needed to properly run IBT.

Lastly, IBT output that displays a positive ( 1.XxXxXx + xXX ) but changes on the next step into another positive value does not really always point into the lack of VCore. It could be an unstable Memory or CPU-NB. Most of the time in my experience, Memory. Either installed loosely or needs a bit of cleaning on the leads.


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Thermal Throttling values may just be threshold levels. Just max it out.
> 
> I see the app you are running is not the AVX version. It may affect things.
> 
> Can you try to download Y-Cruncher and run the app as it has a lot of test suites that focuses on various parts of the system?
> 
> You can also verify if you are using a new install, there are Windows requisite updates needed to properly run IBT.
> 
> Lastly, IBT output that displays a positive ( 1.XxXxXx + xXX ) but changes on the next step into another positive value does not really always point into the lack of VCore. It could be an unstable Memory or CPU-NB. Most of the time in my experience, Memory. Either installed loosely or needs a bit of cleaning on the leads.


Did clean the memory when I put it into the board, it's tight, at least as much as it can







Also upped it to 1.62V, just in case.

I was looking for the AVX version but couldn't find it, all that pops up is regular burn in test, so I thought AVX was integrated. Could you point me to a download link?


----------



## mus1mus

Main page. Vishera thread.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> Thats what I am saying I got a USB CD/DVD and my Mushkin ECO 3 SSD showing but none of my other drive or my M.2 Prime boot drive..
> 
> What gives.. I have it set to UEIF/Legacy in bios


Solved, Got it all figured out now.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Did clean the memory when I put it into the board, it's tight, at least as much as it can
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also upped it to 1.62V, just in case.
> 
> I was looking for the AVX version but couldn't find it, all that pops up is regular burn in test, so I thought AVX was integrated. Could you point me to a download link?


i always overvolt a little on ram and lock in the rated timings manually...mega told me that when i first came here and it helped alot with stabaliz8ng my cpu overclock...also note i started havong stanility problems on my saber after changing to a 2133 kit and i needed nearly 1.4 cpu/nb to stabilize with that particular chip and memory kit...


----------



## tashcz

Yeah, but this is CL10 1866MHz, it's pretty loose already, and the voltage is bumped to 1.62V, can't do much more about it. I'm using 2 sticks of speeds rated for this chipset, can't be a better scenario.

Anyway, I've made a choice. Since I've bought the new board recently, Aura, after my Sabertooth failed, and I had a spare DS3P, I'm going to sell the mobo+cpu combo and get a 8370E. Basicly I trade off 2 things 3.5yrs old, without warranty, for one thing I will use and hopefully will perform better than the 8320 I have (had of tomorrow).

I get 130 EUR for the DS3P+8320, and buy the 8370E for 130EUR for use on Aura. Seems fine to me.


----------



## JerDerv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Yeah, but this is CL10 1866MHz, it's pretty loose already, and the voltage is bumped to 1.62V, can't do much more about it. I'm using 2 sticks of speeds rated for this chipset, can't be a better scenario.
> 
> Anyway, I've made a choice. Since I've bought the new board recently, Aura, after my Sabertooth failed, and I had a spare DS3P, I'm going to sell the mobo+cpu combo and get a 8370E. Basicly I trade off 2 things 3.5yrs old, without warranty, for one thing I will use and hopefully will perform better than the 8320 I have (had of tomorrow).
> 
> I get 130 EUR for the DS3P+8320, and buy the 8370E for 130EUR for use on Aura. Seems fine to me.


Good luck with the 8370E. I didnt get a good chip. 5ghz stable requires too much voltage for my cooler. I have a 5ghz tune that works well and has never caused me problems but it does not pass stability tests.


----------



## tashcz

Thanks, soon we shall see









Just wanted to ask a quick question, is a clear CMOS enough before I pull out the CPU to install another one? And when should I do it, should I first remove the CPU and then clear CMOS or clear the CMOS while the new or the old one is in the socket?


----------



## mus1mus

It should automatically detect the new hardware. But won't hurt to try. Either way, same platform.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> I tried 4.5GHz with 1.45V in BIOS. Got 1.464 on Windows boot.
> 
> Failed.
> 
> 
> 
> There deffinetly isn't any heat issues, I'm nowhere near an unstable limit. And I doubt a normal FX chip would require more than 1.5V for 4.5GHz on a 7+1 phase board.
> 
> Also, what does the "Thermal control" in Digi+ settings do? On mine its set to 130, on Hurricane's Sabertooth it's 151?


I've gotten spoiled... my 9590 only takes 1.462 for 5ghz : ) still the beast has more to go... can go to 5.2 but there heat takes over and it craps out.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Thanks, soon we shall see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to ask a quick question, is a clear CMOS enough before I pull out the CPU to install another one? And when should I do it, should I first remove the CPU and then clear CMOS or clear the CMOS while the new or the old one is in the socket?


yes


----------



## tashcz

The new 8370E blew the 8320 away.

Got it stable at 4.7GHz @ 1.46V at load.



Max I could get was 4.9GHz with my cooling, the socket temps went above 80 and the power draw while using IBT was 440W+. Tried Firestrike for instance, was pulling 560W from the socket, and my PSU is 630W, so guess it's the limit of what I can do with this PC. Time to be happy till the need for Zen or Intel comes now









By the way, this can do 4.5GHz at 1.39V under load. Insane from what I was getting with the 8320, that worket at stock BIOS settings with turbo enabled at 1.392V.


----------



## PurpleChef

Sabertooth 990fx r2.0 + amd Fx8350
22.5x mulltiplier, 4,5ghz @ 1.275 V, with CPU LLC set to High
NB 2200 (shows 2207.4)
HT 2600 (shows 2608,8)
Bus Clock: 200 (shows 200.7)
_Why not 2200, 2600 etc as BIOS setting?_
Memory: 1600mhz (not OC'd)

4.5 is the highest i can go without temps getting to high when stresstesting with P95 Small FFT's 10mins,
but shouldnt i be able to crank it up for gaming, since it never gets that amount of load when gaming?

Have only done muliplier overclocking, but im interesting in trying fsb overclocking.
How much more performace can i get out of my system by doing fsb overclocking? and how will it benefit gaming?

CS GO Average framerate: 130.24 (measured with FPS Benchmark by Mr. uLLetical)
(1920, all low/off)


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurpleChef*
> 
> Sabertooth 990fx r2.0 + amd Fx8350
> 22.5x mulltiplier, 4,5ghz @ 1.275 V, with CPU LLC set to High
> NB 2200 (shows 2207.4)
> HT 2600 (shows 2608,8)
> Bus Clock: 200 (shows 200.7)
> _Why not 2200, 2600 etc as BIOS setting?_
> Memory: 1600mhz (not OC'd)
> 
> 4.5 is the highest i can go without temps getting to high when stresstesting with P95 Small FFT's 10mins,
> but shouldnt i be able to crank it up for gaming, since it never gets that amount of load when gaming?
> 
> Have only done muliplier overclocking, but im interesting in trying fsb overclocking.
> How much more performace can i get out of my system by doing fsb overclocking? and how will it benefit gaming?
> 
> CS GO Average framerate: 130.24 (measured with FPS Benchmark by Mr. uLLetical)
> (1920, all low/off)


First, what cooling are you using?


----------



## PurpleChef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> First, what cooling are you using?


Some Coolermaster with a pair of Noctua fans.

Fan placement ok?

Yello arrows = possible fan positions (yellow arrow @ cpu should be blue ofc







)

Also have a fan on the back that push air over the mb


----------



## tashcz

Is that an hyper 212 evo? What fans are on the heatsink? You have a lot of airflow but that cpu cooler doesnt look decent.


----------



## PurpleChef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Is that an hyper 212 evo? What fans are on the heatsink? You have a lot of airflow but that cpu cooler doesnt look decent.


Tbh i dont know lol. Got it from a friends broken computer. My cooler before that took air from bottom and pushed it up, so i thought this horisontal setup would do the job better, but i think the temps are ~ the same.

Not the best cpu cooler ofc, but it is what i have to work with atm









Dunno about what fans it is, some random fans. The cooler before had smaller noctua fans, so i thought bigger = better?







mb im wrong!

10 min P95

I guess this is the interesting numbers?

Guess its pretty much this coolers limit ive reached, yeah?


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurpleChef*
> 
> Tbh i dont know lol. Got it from a friends broken computer. My cooler before that took air from bottom and pushed it up, so i thought this horisontal setup would do the job better, but i think the temps are ~ the same.
> 
> Not the best cpu cooler ofc, but it is what i have to work with atm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dunno about what fans it is, some random fans. The cooler before had smaller noctua fans, so i thought bigger = better?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mb im wrong!
> 
> 10 min P95
> 
> I guess this is the interesting numbers?
> 
> Guess its pretty much this coolers limit ive reached, yeah?


i wouldnt go any higher for stress testing but you could probably get another 100mhz or so for gaming, what temps are you seeing when you game?


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurpleChef*
> 
> Tbh i dont know lol. Got it from a friends broken computer. My cooler before that took air from bottom and pushed it up, so i thought this horisontal setup would do the job better, but i think the temps are ~ the same.
> 
> Not the best cpu cooler ofc, but it is what i have to work with atm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dunno about what fans it is, some random fans. The cooler before had smaller noctua fans, so i thought bigger = better?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mb im wrong!
> 
> 10 min P95
> 
> I guess this is the interesting numbers?
> 
> Guess its pretty much this coolers limit ive reached, yeah?


Well you aren't at the limit, you can push it to a bit under 70c under stress tests, I guess all of us do. You've got a pretty good chip, 1.32V for 4.5GHz stable. If you're willing to keep it, since you've got plenty valuable stuff there, 4 noctuas, a Sabertooth, etc, you could invest in a larger heatsink. And it's not the VID you're looking at, it's the VCORE. That's your actual voltage.

As heatsinks go, it's a lot about optimization for operations, some are made for case airflow, some are made for pressure (mostly for radiators) and somewhere in between are those for heatsinks, they have to "push" the heat away from the metal.

You might go for 4.6GHz with this, if you stay under 67C lets say. And all of those fans on the case won't make any difference if you don't get a bigger/better heatsink.

Edit: And monitor your in-game temps, if in-game you pass 62C, you've reached the limit.


----------



## PurpleChef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Well you aren't at the limit, you can push it to a bit under 70c under stress tests, I guess all of us do. You've got a pretty good chip, 1.32V for 4.5GHz stable. If you're willing to keep it, since you've got plenty valuable stuff there, 4 noctuas, a Sabertooth, etc, you could invest in a larger heatsink. And it's not the VID you're looking at, it's the VCORE. That's your actual voltage.
> 
> As heatsinks go, it's a lot about optimization for operations, some are made for case airflow, some are made for pressure (mostly for radiators) and somewhere in between are those for heatsinks, they have to "push" the heat away from the metal.
> 
> You might go for 4.6GHz with this, if you stay under 67C lets say. And all of those fans on the case won't make any difference if you don't get a bigger/better heatsink.
> 
> Edit: And monitor your in-game temps, if in-game you pass 62C, you've reached the limit.




One game of cs go







Ye looks like i can push it harder

So what ive understood i should only look at the CPU not CPU, and keep it under 63, right?
ofc i should keep an eye on it, but read that its not reliable temp


----------



## tashcz

Both should be considered reliable, the core temperatures should not be more than ~60C, while the socket (motherboard detected) temperatures shouldn't go over 70C at max under heavy stress testing for short periods of time.


----------



## SwishaMane

HOLY COW GUYS! My SaberTooth has been resurrected from the dead. I just got my new case in yesterday, and my new cooler should be in today. So out of boredom I broke the sabertooth out just for giggles since it died after a water leak months ago. Well, I'm typing on it right now! I'm having a BIOS issue where the board thinks a new CPU is installed every reboot, so it's not booting with BIOS changes. My 1866 RAM is at 1333, and I have to use Boot Override option in BIOS to boot to Windows.

When I first got it to POST, and re-set settings, it was booting fine at 1866. Should I flash it? She's working tho... Can't believe it!


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> HOLY COW GUYS! My SaberTooth has been resurrected from the dead. I just got my new case in yesterday, and my new cooler should be in today. So out of boredom I broke the sabertooth out just for giggles since it died after a water leak months ago. Well, I'm typing on it right now! I'm having a BIOS issue where the board thinks a new CPU is installed every reboot, so it's not booting with BIOS changes. My 1866 RAM is at 1333, and I have to use Boot Override option in BIOS to boot to Windows.
> 
> When I first got it to POST, and re-set settings, it was booting fine at 1866. Should I flash it? She's working tho... Can't believe it!


does the time and date stay the same? or does it reset?

gratz on the revival, its amazing how much punishment these boards take..


----------



## SwishaMane

Time and date stays right. But its saying a new CPU is installed every reboot, and when I override, it sticks with default settings. Like 1333, and the timings for 1333 instead of my 1866 timings. Really weird. Im on BIOS 1604 for this R1 board, but going to re-flash since 1604 is "newest"...









IDK how to fix this issue if re-flash doesnt work.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Time and date stays right. But its saying a new CPU is installed every reboot, and when I override, it sticks with default settings. Like 1333, and the timings for 1333 instead of my 1866 timings. Really weird. Im on BIOS 1604 for this R1 board, but going to re-flash since 1604 is "newest"...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IDK how to fix this issue if re-flash doesnt work.


if reflashing doesnt work, have you checked the cmos jumper is in right position?


----------



## SwishaMane

Yeah it is. I'm gonna remove battery for a while and let board drain again. On my first couple reboots after the amazement of the board working again, it was booting fine, 1866 speed and timings, no stop at POST. So it literally developed the symptom one boot to the next.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurpleChef*
> 
> Some Coolermaster with a pair of Noctua fans.
> 
> Fan placement ok?
> 
> Yello arrows = possible fan positions (yellow arrow @ cpu should be blue ofc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Also have a fan on the back that push air over the mb


You would do better to take that top rear fan and move it forward blowing down as an intake. Where it is now all it is doing is disrupting air flow. Other than that it looks good. Don't worry about exhaust air. With the PSI slot covers removed the air has no trouble getting out. You might want to consider removing the I/O panel as well as it creates a dead zone right where the VRMs are.

You are running 4.5 ghz at 1.32vcore with max temperatures of 63C? The stock cooler can do better than that, so something is wrong. A 4 pipe single tower cooler should be able to cool 1.4 vcore at that temperature.

Maybe it is mounted crooked. All the bolts have to be tightened evenly. Tightening one side and then the other is bad news. Maybe the Thermal paste (TIM) was applied wrong. Or maybe the cooler itself is defective. Anyhoo, at that voltage your temps should never go over 50C.

Don't think about clocking it higher for now as it has other problems that have to be addressed first.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurpleChef*
> 
> Sabertooth 990fx r2.0 + amd Fx8350
> 22.5x mulltiplier, 4,5ghz @ 1.275 V, with CPU LLC set to High
> NB 2200 (shows 2207.4)
> HT 2600 (shows 2608,8)
> Bus Clock: 200 (shows 200.7)
> _Why not 2200, 2600 etc as BIOS setting?_
> Memory: 1600mhz (not OC'd)
> 
> 4.5 is the highest i can go without temps getting to high when stresstesting with P95 Small FFT's 10mins,
> but shouldnt i be able to crank it up for gaming, since it never gets that amount of load when gaming?
> 
> Have only done muliplier overclocking, but im interesting in trying fsb overclocking.
> How much more performace can i get out of my system by doing fsb overclocking? and how will it benefit gaming?
> 
> CS GO Average framerate: 130.24 (measured with FPS Benchmark by Mr. uLLetical)
> (1920, all low/off)


Not gonna get into the rest of it . But as to the fsb question

There is no way to make a fsb stay exactly at 200 (or 100, or 1 ) it will have minor fluctuations and is normal
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> HOLY COW GUYS! My SaberTooth has been resurrected from the dead. I just got my new case in yesterday, and my new cooler should be in today. So out of boredom I broke the sabertooth out just for giggles since it died after a water leak months ago. Well, I'm typing on it right now! I'm having a BIOS issue where the board thinks a new CPU is installed every reboot, so it's not booting with BIOS changes. My 1866 RAM is at 1333, and I have to use Boot Override option in BIOS to boot to Windows.
> 
> When I first got it to POST, and re-set settings, it was booting fine at 1866. Should I flash it? She's working tho... Can't believe it!


I would try replacing the battery, no promises but it may help


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PurpleChef*
> 
> Sabertooth 990fx r2.0 + amd Fx8350
> 22.5x mulltiplier, 4,5ghz @ 1.275 V, with CPU LLC set to High
> NB 2200 (shows 2207.4)
> HT 2600 (shows 2608,8)
> Bus Clock: 200 (shows 200.7)
> _Why not 2200, 2600 etc as BIOS setting?_
> Memory: 1600mhz (not OC'd)
> 
> 4.5 is the highest i can go without temps getting to high when stresstesting with P95 Small FFT's 10mins,
> but shouldnt i be able to crank it up for gaming, since it never gets that amount of load when gaming?
> 
> Have only done muliplier overclocking, but im interesting in trying fsb overclocking.
> How much more performace can i get out of my system by doing fsb overclocking? and how will it benefit gaming?
> 
> CS GO Average framerate: 130.24 (measured with FPS Benchmark by Mr. uLLetical)
> (1920, all low/off)
> 
> 
> 
> Not gonna get into the rest of it . But as to the fsb question
> 
> There is no way to make a fsb stay exactly at 200 (or 100, or 1 ) it will have minor fluctuations and is normal
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> HOLY COW GUYS! My SaberTooth has been resurrected from the dead. I just got my new case in yesterday, and my new cooler should be in today. So out of boredom I broke the sabertooth out just for giggles since it died after a water leak months ago. Well, I'm typing on it right now! I'm having a BIOS issue where the board thinks a new CPU is installed every reboot, so it's not booting with BIOS changes. My 1866 RAM is at 1333, and I have to use Boot Override option in BIOS to boot to Windows.
> 
> When I first got it to POST, and re-set settings, it was booting fine at 1866. Should I flash it? She's working tho... Can't believe it!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I would try replacing the battery, no promises but it may help
Click to expand...

I was a bit disappointed in my CHV-Z's poor control of clockspeed due to this, the GD-80 is much better in this regard - rarely changing more than 1 mhz from it's setting. Example https://youtu.be/-pi2_eDey20


----------



## PurpleChef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Both should be considered reliable, the core temperatures should not be more than ~60C, while the socket (motherboard detected) temperatures shouldn't go over 70C at max under heavy stress testing for short periods of time.


CPU 0 =
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> You would do better to take that top rear fan and move it forward blowing down as an intake. Where it is now all it is doing is disrupting air flow. Other than that it looks good. Don't worry about exhaust air. With the PSI slot covers removed the air has no trouble getting out. You might want to consider removing the I/O panel as well as it creates a dead zone right where the VRMs are.
> 
> You are running 4.5 ghz at 1.32vcore with max temperatures of 63C? The stock cooler can do better than that, so something is wrong. A 4 pipe single tower cooler should be able to cool 1.4 vcore at that temperature.
> 
> Maybe it is mounted crooked. All the bolts have to be tightened evenly. Tightening one side and then the other is bad news. Maybe the Thermal paste (TIM) was applied wrong. Or maybe the cooler itself is defective. Anyhoo, at that voltage your temps should never go over 50C.
> 
> Don't think about clocking it higher for now as it has other problems that have to be addressed first.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> You would do better to take that top rear fan and move it forward blowing down as an intake. Where it is now all it is doing is disrupting air flow. Other than that it looks good. Don't worry about exhaust air. With the PSI slot covers removed the air has no trouble getting out. You might want to consider removing the I/O panel as well as it creates a dead zone right where the VRMs are.
> 
> You are running 4.5 ghz at 1.32vcore with max temperatures of 63C? The stock cooler can do better than that, so something is wrong. A 4 pipe single tower cooler should be able to cool 1.4 vcore at that temperature.
> 
> Maybe it is mounted crooked. All the bolts have to be tightened evenly. Tightening one side and then the other is bad news. Maybe the Thermal paste (TIM) was applied wrong. Or maybe the cooler itself is defective. Anyhoo, at that voltage your temps should never go over 50C.
> 
> Don't think about clocking it higher for now as it has other problems that have to be addressed first.


Moving the top fan, and making it intake , made temps even worse








Ye i guess something is wrong. Maybe the Noctua fans on the cpu cooler makes a bad job, mb wrong type of fans for cpu usage.


----------



## miklkit

Moving that fan made it worse? Then........that suggests that the fans on the cooler are not moving much air. There are lots of different Noctua fans. Some move a lot of air and some move none. I have a Noctua fan, a NF-S12A pwm fan that makes no noise and moves no air. I paid $25 usd for it too.

Whatever the reason is, the temperatures are too high for that voltage.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Always a awesome area to read up on.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22657923

So much good info here. Static pressures etc. I mean there is spacers etc that can change the header pressures as well. Sometimes you may just have to step back to less fans to get a idea/s as to what ones are really serving you best.

At the moment I have a less pressure entering the front case and have more side and top pushing. For me i hate being so broke cause I would love to play with more tweak able gear. My quest to finalize my build got pushed back again. so i will see at the 1st of the month what happens towards case psu and AIO cooler.

The AIO is my biggest pro and con. I am not wanting to spend more then 125.00 area but I am leaning towards the Eramax 240 or just a Lepa 240 that are really near the same thing. I am all for stronger pump but don't want any refillable systems. I just need it to be able to come out without breakage or leaks happening.

I noticed some of the coolers I was looking at formerly rated real well have bad ratings recently. I don't think I can use my old AIO cooler since I don't think I have the base for the AMD so that is a no go.


----------



## PurpleChef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Moving that fan made it worse? Then........that suggests that the fans on the cooler are not moving much air. There are lots of different Noctua fans. Some move a lot of air and some move none. I have a Noctua fan, a NF-S12A pwm fan that makes no noise and moves no air. I paid $25 usd for it too.
> 
> Whatever the reason is, the temperatures are too high for that voltage.


Ye. Back to stock settings with some bios optimization only. Need better cpu cooler, better thermalpaste.

Removed it yesterday to clean it, ended up bending some pins on the cpu, omg the time it took to get them straight again








(lets not talk about the cpu cooler itself...****, dunno how one man supposte to mount it, calling it impossible xD)

I have two coolermaster fans who prolly would cool the cpu alot more, but the trade for more noise, im not sure


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurpleChef*
> 
> Ye. Back to stock settings with some bios optimization only. Need better cpu cooler, better thermalpaste.
> 
> Removed it yesterday to clean it, ended up bending some pins on the cpu, omg the time it took to get them straight again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (lets not talk about the cpu cooler itself...****, dunno how one man supposte to mount it, calling it impossible xD)
> 
> I have two coolermaster fans who prolly would cool the cpu alot more, but the trade for more noise, im not sure


if it uses stock backplate place a static free towel behind the mobo to hold the backplate through while you tighten the block with the case on its back....


----------



## miklkit

@ BinaryBummer: Ya there is a lot of good information there. Click on the pic in my sig rig to find out what I ended up with. Hint: Four intake fans and no exhaust fans.

I hate the CM mounting system and recommend anything else just because of it. The Noctua D14/D15 are probably the best all around choice for the average Joe. For high performance the Silverstone HE01 and the Thermalright Silver Arrow SBE/IBE Extreme have the most powerful fans.


----------



## Vrbaa

Guys, how satisfied are you with your AMD build in 2016? Are you planning to upgrade in 2017?

Btw I'm very satisfied by now with overall speed and responsiveness of system...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6DEvp4ma6Y


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> Guys, how satisfied are you with your AMD build in 2016? Are you planning to upgrade in 2017?
> 
> Btw I'm very satisfied by now with overall speed and responsiveness of system...
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6DEvp4ma6Y


Still like my FX's better than any of my i 7's.

http://download.cnet.com/BootRacer/3000-18512_4-75330418.html if you want to time your boot.


----------



## gertruude

im happy with mine too.....planning on upgrading once zen hits, not sure if it will be on first release yet though


----------



## hurricane28

I am happy too again, especially when you have a great board these chips begin to shine.


----------



## miklkit

It does everything I want it to do no muss, no fuss. I'm in no hurry to update.

I read somewhere around here a while back that one of the reasons FX beats out the Phenom is because of newer instruction sets. Since the SSE stuff is where FX falls behind the worst now, much worse than single thread performance, how much improvement will new instructions give Zen?


----------



## zila

I'm cool for now. If anything I will be upgrading my graphics cards but fine with my boards and processors for now. I'll be watching as guys upgrade to Zen. I'll let them be the ginnie pigs.









Then I'll decide if I go Zen in a year or so or jump to Intel.


----------



## tashcz

If you are doing anything except gaming, there won't be a need to upgrade an 8 core or even the 6 core FX for the next couple of years, thats for sure, especially when overclocked.

If you're gaming, it's all a matter of what you want and if you're getting it. So there can be a bunch of mixed oppinions if someones happy. I for instance am very happy with above 4.5GHz 8core performance mixed with a GTX970 even for 1080p gaming. When it starts making problems I'll know when to switch. Wanted to switch to Skylake but I was like, what the hell, it's mostly numbers I will be seeing increased. Most demanding game I play is GTA V online, and I get almost constant 60FPS with most settings maxed out, so AMD so far does the job for me.

By the way, I have another question. Since I got my 8370E instead of my old 8320, I found out only the temps are the limit for overclocking, and the socket makes some problems above 4.7GHz. The chip is a not flat, it's a bit higher on the edges, so I don't get great contact with the center of the CPU to my water block.

Is using a fan on the backplate of the socket actually "cheating"? My correct question is, does it really improve temperatures, or it's just cheating the sensor? I wanna use it, found out that a simple low-cost 40mm attached to the backplate lowers temps for 3-5C at least and makes no extra noise, while I can still close the case from that side since it's only 10mm thick.

But if it's just cheating the sensor, I don't wanna burn my chip.


----------



## miklkit

Yes all CPUs are concave to some degree with some being very concave. Many but not all heat sinks are slightly convex to compensate for this. It often isn't enough though. One of my coolers has marks where the 4 corners of the cpu hit it. That is the only places it has solid contact.

This is one of my CPUs partially lapped. You can see it is well into the copper on the edges. What you can't see in this pic is that the printing in the center is still legible.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> Guys, how satisfied are you with your AMD build in 2016? Are you planning to upgrade in 2017?
> 
> Btw I'm very satisfied by now with overall speed and responsiveness of system...
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6DEvp4ma6Y


Me? Already upgrade it to the rig on my signature. However I'm gonna use the all AMD parts to build an ESXi server to be part of my home lab.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> Guys, how satisfied are you with your AMD build in 2016? Are you planning to upgrade in 2017?
> 
> Btw I'm very satisfied by now with overall speed and responsiveness of system...
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6DEvp4ma6Y


i am always wanting/ready to upgrade, but no i dont feel the need to, just the want to


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vrbaa*
> 
> Guys, how satisfied are you with your AMD build in 2016? Are you planning to upgrade in 2017?
> 
> Btw I'm very satisfied by now with overall speed and responsiveness of system...
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6DEvp4ma6Y


Speed is fine, but FireFox is a joke because it isn't properly multi-threaded yet - so an Intel would be better if you use FF.

I sort of stopped using throttling and just run it full speed all the time now since it's so much more responsive this way.

I sleep my computer all the time so, it's not much of a waste of power.


----------



## hurricane28

I have the same problem with Firefox man.. all of a sudden it went sooo slow that i start using Google Chrome again. The speed difference is amazing.

On topic, i really like my AMD system to be honest. The only thing i miss is PCIe 3.0 because of my M.2 drive. Other than that, great chip and i don't see any bottlenecks yet. In games the GPU is at 99-100% most of the time and the CPU at 50-60% and in some games like COD black OPS 3 and DOOM i get 100% CPU usage. COD is really stressing the system, max settings at 1080p result in total vram usage, my RAM is being utilized as well at 60% and CPU is 100% lots of times. I really like to see that my system is getting a workout like that.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Speed is fine, but FireFox is a joke because it isn't properly multi-threaded yet - so an Intel would be better if you use FF.
> 
> I sort of stopped using throttling and just run it full speed all the time now since it's so much more responsive this way.
> 
> I sleep my computer all the time so, it's not much of a waste of power.


I've been using Firefox Nightly for maybe 2 years now. It was really buggy at first but settled down to a good experience and is faster than Internet Exploder. They are still working on it and it gets updated at least once a day. 2 days ago they broke it with one of their updates and I had to use IE for a while so the direct comparison is recent.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Yes all CPUs are concave to some degree with some being very concave. Many but not all heat sinks are slightly convex to compensate for this. It often isn't enough though. One of my coolers has marks where the 4 corners of the cpu hit it. That is the only places it has solid contact.
> 
> This is one of my CPUs partially lapped. You can see it is well into the copper on the edges. What you can't see in this pic is that the printing in the center is still legible.


That is exactly the issue i had with my Intel I7 920. Even after i lapped it I never could get the temps down like others did. I thought the Corsair H50 over the Asetek LC120 would help but it didn't so I used it in my sons machine.

With that in mind it leads me to think that heavy pad of TIM they put on them might be the stop gap.


----------



## miklkit

Yes lapping helps with temperatures. Even a basic lapping helps by knocking off the high points but the better the lap the more difference it makes. A mirror finish might make a 10C difference.

And this is the reason I am so high on the GD80 heat sink as it has a 3rd bolt in the center to make double dam sure the VRMs are in solid contact with the heat sink.


----------



## Mega Man

This is not always or nessisarially true, there is a reason that cpu coolers do not come flat. And making them flat is not always going to help, it *can*


----------



## miklkit

Of course every cpu/cooler combination needs to be looked at individually as there is no "one size fits all" solution.

Of my 2 favorite coolers one has a flat face and the other has a slightly curved face. So which one to use comes down to which cpu will it go on, the lapped one or the stock one, as much as which is the better cooler.

Likewise when lapping a cpu one needs to decide on whether to leave it slightly concave or perfectly flat.

Unless of course one laps both the cpu and the cooler face.

Overall one could say that the most effort expended should deliver the best results, but there is the exception to every rule.


----------



## Mega Man

Even if you lap both faces, you pull the cooler on to the cpu which causes flexing of the ihs which is exactly they they are not flat


----------



## ShrimpBrime

For all the work of lapping an IHS plate and cooler just to gain 2c will not bring any real advantage to overclocking.


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I have the same problem with Firefox man.. all of a sudden it went sooo slow that i start using Google Chrome again. The speed difference is amazing.
> 
> On topic, i really like my AMD system to be honest. The only thing i miss is PCIe 3.0 because of my M.2 drive. Other than that, great chip and i don't see any bottlenecks yet. In games the GPU is at 99-100% most of the time and the CPU at 50-60% and in some games like COD black OPS 3 and DOOM i get 100% CPU usage. COD is really stressing the system, max settings at 1080p result in total vram usage, my RAM is being utilized as well at 60% and CPU is 100% lots of times. I really like to see that my system is getting a workout like that.


The only thing keeping me from switching to Chrome (for the performance) is that Chrome doesn't have TOTAL color correction.

I'm using a Wide Gamut monitor, and with FF, it can convert ALL images and graphics to the proper sRGB color space.

With Chrome only TAGGED images get converted to the proper space.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> For all the work of lapping an IHS plate and cooler just to gain 2c will not bring any real advantage to overclocking.


Of all the processors I've had there's been only one that was an obvious candidate for lapping, it just happened to be the FX 9370. Sitting here today I can't remember how much it improved temps but as it came from the factory I couldn't hold 4.7 ghz on all 8 cores with a 240 mm clc , the heat was terrible.

It's not perfectly shiny or perfectly flat , but I can prime all day at 4.7 ghz on the same clc now without any heat issues and will prime at 5.1ghz on the custom loop. Before lapping , the custom loop didn't really help it that much.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

There is definitely some cases where it does indeed help!! Agreed entirely. For the average user, mainly the FX-83xx users, it's really a moot point.

Just send it to me, I'll de-lid it. Explain to you mounting procedures in private to keep some secrets secret, and you'll gain an easy 100mhz with your custom loop.

I could sell my FX-9590. It's damaged from running a super highHT and NB speed. Only works in single channel. A real PITA to get booted without the proper mouting pressure and procedure to do so. No longer have a board to post it in. Kept it so far just to have the only working de-lidded FX-9590.......

Ya. Always seeking that better temp.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> There is definitely some cases where it does indeed help!! Agreed entirely. For the average user, mainly the FX-83xx users, it's really a moot point.
> 
> Just send it to me, I'll de-lid it. Explain to you mounting procedures in private to keep some secrets secret, and you'll gain an easy 100mhz with your custom loop.
> 
> I could sell my FX-9590. It's damaged from running a super highHT and NB speed. Only works in single channel. A real PITA to get booted without the proper mouting pressure and procedure to do so. No longer have a board to post it in. Kept it so far just to have the only working de-lidded FX-9590.......
> 
> Ya. Always seeking that better temp.


It was pretty disappointing the way it arrived to me or i wouldn't have tried it, now it's capable of being completely stable at higher speeds than any of my other chips. It's quite willing to prime at 5.2ghz , but it gets hot as the surface of the sun in short order.

Extremely rare to make that much of a difference in my experience one out of a 150 or so chips?


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Got any low end chips you want to try de-lidded, you can PM me. Do it for ya free. You understand the risks, but also know my success history.

Got like a 4350 or 6300 or something??


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> Got any low end chips you want to try de-lidded, you can PM me. Do it for ya free. You understand the risks, but also know my success history.
> 
> Got like a 4350 or 6300 or something??


Greatly appreciate the offer , really don't have a good candidate for it that I can think of other than that 9370. Would be fun to see it plowing through prime at 5.3 though


----------



## ShrimpBrime

NVM. Check your PM box. I got something for you instead. Already to go, just need your addy.


----------



## tashcz

It's a pitty I've got mine so high on edges, seems like a really good chip. The only thing keeping me from going up is the temperatures, and it appears to be the socket ones. Since it has least contact with the center of the IHS, where the actual CPU is located, seems like it gets the socket a bit warmer than it should. But I've got no experience in lapping so I guess I'd do more damage than good.

Running IBT makes like a 15C difference between the core and the socket. Tried reapplying my MX-4 a couple of times, thinking if I focus on the spread instead of using the "pea method" I usually use would help, but it doesn't, so went back to the pea method. I always find the middle part to be with least TIM, and the edges almost filled up with it. You can almost see through TIM on the center. I'm using a CM Nepton 240M, the copper plate seems pretty flat to me, while the CPU isn't even at the first look.

Now I'm trying to find the best way to mount a backplate fan without the side panel being removed, I'm doing some testing between different sized fans and positions, since I can mount a fan like directly on the backplate, but there's literally no air to suck from it, or if I push air into there, the air wouldn't have anywhere to go. So we'll see what the best option will be, in terms of silence, performance and looks. If I don't have to drill holes on my panel for it it'd be great.


----------



## PurpleChef

So i changed the 2 cpufans! now i got 2 coolermaster fans. 2 intake front, 1 side, 1 exhaust in back

15min prime fft's:

Looks better, yes?
LLC Very high


----------



## tashcz

Yeah it is better, but what you need is a different heatsink man, not the fans.


----------



## PurpleChef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Yeah it is better, but what you need is a different heatsink man, not the fans.


need and need... i want, i don't need








close to reaching thermal limits @4.5 P95 FFT stresstest isn't to bad, since the temps are not even close when gaming. P95 really push it to the limit.
The question is, how much would i gain from a better cpu cooler, and do i really need it is the question.
My thermalpaste looks like some really cheap stuff, but only the thought of removing this damn cooler again... no thx








Dude the fans i had on didn't move close to as much air as this fans, but they are alot louder tho.

Generally, is it worth having a intake fan in the bottom of the chassi? how about the 2 top slots, should i try with another intake top, since i changed fans?

I did remove the fan behind the MB tho, think it can help much using it as intake?

Imma do the best with the stuff i got for now. Prioritys maaan. Missed 4:20, out of medication


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurpleChef*
> 
> need and need... i want, i don't need
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> close to reaching thermal limits @4.5 P95 FFT stresstest isn't to bad, since the temps are not even close when gaming. P95 really push it to the limit.
> The question is, how much would i gain from a better cpu cooler, and do i really need it is the question.
> My thermalpaste looks like some really cheap stuff, but only the thought of removing this damn cooler again... no thx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dude the fans i had on didn't move close to as much air as this fans, but they are alot louder tho.
> 
> Generally, is it worth having a intake fan in the bottom of the chassi? how about the 2 top slots, should i try with another intake top, since i changed fans?
> 
> I did remove the fan behind the MB tho, think it can help much using it as intake?
> 
> Imma do the best with the stuff i got for now. Prioritys maaan. Missed 4:20, out of medication


Yeah but look, you got like what, 8 fans total inside your case? They make no sense if you don't have a decent heatsink. You are moving a bunch of air but there isn't anything air can go through.

You don't need to adjust anything about the case fans right now, you won't get anything different from it, maybe a 1 to 2 C difference which equals to ambient difference. Priority with the CPU cooling is a decent CPU cooler, not a bunch of case fans. It's mostly OCD that kicks in when you start putting fans to all slots you got on the case, but there really isn't need for that. You just need cold air to the CPU heatsink, exhaust to the top and rear, and intake from the side or bottom if possible for the GPU, or even a lower front slot. You can make all of this with only 3 fans. More can be fine, but the CPU temps are mostly dependant on the CPU heatsink.

I can't answer your question on do you need it. If you wish to stay at 4.5GHz, and you can take the noise the fans make, it's fine. But with a bigger heatsink you'd get a cooler system and won't be loud as that. Don't even know how you ended up with that much fans.


----------



## PurpleChef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Yeah but look, you got like what, 8 fans total inside your case? They make no sense if you don't have a decent heatsink. You are moving a bunch of air but there isn't anything air can go through.
> 
> You don't need to adjust anything about the case fans right now, you won't get anything different from it, maybe a 1 to 2 C difference which equals to ambient difference. Priority with the CPU cooling is a decent CPU cooler, not a bunch of case fans. It's mostly OCD that kicks in when you start putting fans to all slots you got on the case, but there really isn't need for that. You just need cold air to the CPU heatsink, exhaust to the top and rear, and intake from the side or bottom if possible for the GPU, or even a lower front slot. You can make all of this with only 3 fans. More can be fine, but the CPU temps are mostly dependant on the CPU heatsink.
> 
> I can't answer your question on do you need it. If you wish to stay at 4.5GHz, and you can take the noise the fans make, it's fine. But with a bigger heatsink you'd get a cooler system and won't be loud as that. Don't even know how you ended up with that much fans.


Got 4 case fans now







2 front, 1 side, 1 rear. And 2 if you count the cpu fans.
Shouldn't a fan on the back of the MB be good? from what i remember the one on the back of the MB did alot.
Someone said earlier that the top fan could disrupt the airflow

What cooler you recommend?

Edit: How do i know a Core fail ingame? since temps are much lower gaming, then with this stresstest, i could even overclock it more, and still not reach max temp limits for this Cpu.
Can the cpu throttle for not getting enough cpu vcore?
Hope u guys understand what im mean








Im just looking for any fps possible... just because...u know... just because


----------



## BinaryBummer

Seems there is only so much outside air you can move into a case before it becomes irrelevant. At that as they suggest would be a matter of the CPU cooler or if your processor and plate is level as well, followed by TIM and BIOS settings, But isn't that just OC'n?

You will get there.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Even if you lap both faces, you pull the cooler on to the cpu which causes flexing of the ihs which is exactly they they are not flat


What?!!?

The IHS is soldered on so that is solid metal to metal contact. The motherboard will flex first. The heat sink is much thicker metal so it will not flex, and besides the whole mess is held on with two tiny screws. There isn't enough pressure to bend anything.

Actually the mounting bracket will bend and flex first and in fact that is my big complaint about the Phanteks PH-TC14PE cooler. It's AMD mount is poorly engineered and flexes badly causing weak mounting pressure and poor heat transfer.

This is kind of an apples to oranges comparison but when comparing temperatures of my lapped 8350 to my unlapped 8370 at the same voltages and where the only thing changed was the cpu and its TIM there is a 3-4C difference. That lap job was just to knock off the high spots, not to gain a mirror surface.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurpleChef*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Yeah it is better, but what you need is a different heatsink man, not the fans.
> 
> 
> 
> need and need... i want, i don't need
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> close to reaching thermal limits @4.5 P95 FFT stresstest isn't to bad, since the temps are not even close when gaming. P95 really push it to the limit.
> The question is, how much would i gain from a better cpu cooler, and do i really need it is the question.
> My thermalpaste looks like some really cheap stuff, but only the thought of removing this damn cooler again... no thx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dude the fans i had on didn't move close to as much air as this fans, but they are alot louder tho.
> 
> Generally, is it worth having a intake fan in the bottom of the chassi? how about the 2 top slots, should i try with another intake top, since i changed fans?
> 
> I did remove the fan behind the MB tho, think it can help much using it as intake?
> 
> Imma do the best with the stuff i got for now. Prioritys maaan.
Click to expand...

this is your personal pref, how fast do you want it?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PurpleChef*
> 
> need and need... i want, i don't need
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> close to reaching thermal limits @4.5 P95 FFT stresstest isn't to bad, since the temps are not even close when gaming. P95 really push it to the limit.
> The question is, how much would i gain from a better cpu cooler, and do i really need it is the question.
> My thermalpaste looks like some really cheap stuff, but only the thought of removing this damn cooler again... no thx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dude the fans i had on didn't move close to as much air as this fans, but they are alot louder tho.
> 
> Generally, is it worth having a intake fan in the bottom of the chassi? how about the 2 top slots, should i try with another intake top, since i changed fans?
> 
> I did remove the fan behind the MB tho, think it can help much using it as intake?
> 
> Imma do the best with the stuff i got for now. Prioritys maaan. Missed 4:20, out of medication
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah but look, you got like what, 8 fans total inside your case? They make no sense if you don't have a decent heatsink. You are moving a bunch of air but there isn't anything air can go through.
> 
> You don't need to adjust anything about the case fans right now, you won't get anything different from it, maybe a 1 to 2 C difference which equals to ambient difference. Priority with the CPU cooling is a decent CPU cooler, not a bunch of case fans. It's mostly OCD that kicks in when you start putting fans to all slots you got on the case, but there really isn't need for that. You just need cold air to the CPU heatsink, exhaust to the top and rear, and intake from the side or bottom if possible for the GPU, or even a lower front slot. You can make all of this with only 3 fans. More can be fine, but the CPU temps are mostly dependant on the CPU heatsink.
> 
> I can't answer your question on do you need it. If you wish to stay at 4.5GHz, and you can take the noise the fans make, it's fine. But with a bigger heatsink you'd get a cooler system and won't be loud as that. Don't even know how you ended up with that much fans.
Click to expand...

i wanted to cover a few things for you. so you are armed with knowledge for the future

1 not all fans are equal, in general ( not always true but usually ) airflow fans are trash. static pressure whether air cooling or water cooling tends to be better and more important, although most air cooling guys argue, the reason is simple. airflow fans under pressure ( case mesh/honeycomb, filters, heatsinks ) have near no airflow, static pressure fans hold up. the static pressure fans tend to be louder, at same airflow.

2 airflow ( CFM ) and static pressure are very deceiving and poor reasons to buy any fan ( due to either/or/both spec ) to do a real comparison you need both sets of facts along an chart. this is called a pq chart

more does not nessisarrily help, but less doesnt necessarily hurt either
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Even if you lap both faces, you pull the cooler on to the cpu which causes flexing of the ihs which is exactly they they are not flat
> 
> 
> 
> What?!!?
> 
> The IHS is soldered on so that is solid metal to metal contact. The motherboard will flex first. The heat sink is much thicker metal so it will not flex, and besides the whole mess is held on with two tiny screws. There isn't enough pressure to bend anything.
> 
> Actually the mounting bracket will bend and flex first and in fact that is my big complaint about the Phanteks PH-TC14PE cooler. It's AMD mount is poorly engineered and flexes badly causing weak mounting pressure and poor heat transfer.
> 
> This is kind of an apples to oranges comparison but when comparing temperatures of my lapped 8350 to my unlapped 8370 at the same voltages and where the only thing changed was the cpu and its TIM there is a 3-4C difference. That lap job was just to knock off the high spots, not to gain a mirror surface.
Click to expand...

you must be right, that is why all heatsinks and waterblocks are concave, the engineers of these products, who spend thousands of $ on r&d know NOTHING and obviously you know more. right?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this is your personal pref, how fast do you want it?
> i wanted to cover a few things for you. so you are armed with knowledge for the future
> 
> 1 not all fans are equal, in general ( not always true but usually ) airflow fans are trash. static pressure whether air cooling or water cooling tends to be better and more important, although most air cooling guys argue, the reason is simple. airflow fans under pressure ( case mesh/honeycomb, filters, heatsinks ) have near no airflow, static pressure fans hold up. the static pressure fans tend to be louder, at same airflow.
> 
> 2 airflow ( CFM ) and static pressure are very deceiving and poor reasons to buy any fan ( due to either/or/both spec ) to do a real comparison you need both sets of facts along an chart. this is called a pq chart
> 
> more does not nessisarrily help, but less doesnt necessarily hurt either
> you must be right, that is why all heatsinks and waterblocks are concave, the engineers of these products, who spend thousands of $ on r&d know NOTHING and obviously you know more. right?


we all know the problem isnt with the design but with the manufacturing process that creates more than less than scenario....but i think results vary so wildly because of this and possibly poor mounts initially then a better mount or better tim amounts on the second run


----------



## miklkit

"you must be right, that is why all heatsinks and waterblocks are concave, the engineers of these products, who spend thousands of $ on r&d know NOTHING and obviously you know more. right?"

You are just an argument looking for a place to happen. I was trying to agree with you before but you've gone off the deep end now.

Have a nice day.


----------



## BinaryBummer

This Forums have gone to crap..

Seems all the Anal remarks and flames back and forth isn't even in context to the SaberTooth topic. Shame there is to many self centered folks these days that live for all about me.

This isn't the only topic/thread this is happening with.


----------



## PurpleChef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this is your personal pref, how fast do you want it?


As high as it can go, with the gear i got


----------



## Synister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> This Forums have gone to crap..
> 
> Seems all the Anal remarks and flames back and forth isn't even in context to the SaberTooth topic. Shame there is to many self centered folks these days that live for all about me.
> 
> This isn't the only topic/thread this is happening with.


Was just a full moon ....


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurpleChef*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this is your personal pref, how fast do you want it?
> 
> 
> 
> As high as it can go, with the gear i got
Click to expand...

Probably around 4.6 at most some rare chips can hit 4.8 iirc @Sgt Bilko may of been 4.9 idr exactly depending on the rest of the gear, amd luck


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PurpleChef*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this is your personal pref, how fast do you want it?
> 
> 
> 
> As high as it can go, with the gear i got
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Probably around 4.6 at most some rare chips can hit 4.8 iirc @Sgt Bilko may of been 4.9 idr exactly depending on the rest of the gear, amd luck
Click to expand...

I hit 5.0 stable with 5.3 and 5.5 benchable on a custom loop.


----------



## Mega Man

Not on the 212


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Not on the 212


Serves me right for not reading the previous posts *facepalm*

On the 212 I got 4.8 stable with 5.0 benchable.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Serves me right for not reading the previous posts *facepalm*
> 
> On the 212 I got 4.8 stable with 5.0 benchable.


I got 7.8 stable on the 212 with 10.2 benchable.....









I did get 5 ghz on air once.... before the vrms on my cheap board blew... I was performing a test to see if a certain board could handle the 8 core chip that claimed it could was a cheap MSI board... G 45 I think it was... ... and it did fine up to about 4.2... 5 ghz for a single bench (not stable at all) did ok... barely... 4.5 was max stable... and then one day the smoke came out and killed the board and chip.... RIP 8150
yeah... I'll stick to the high end boards now... I've done similar tests with cheap ASUS boards... so far throttling was all I had an issue with them...no smoke.... does ASUS boards even come with smoke to release so you know they blew?..... lol... sorry... my sense of humor is off a bit this morning... bad nights sleep.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Serves me right for not reading the previous posts *facepalm*
> 
> On the 212 I got 4.8 stable with 5.0 benchable.
> 
> 
> 
> I got 7.8 stable on the 212 with 10.2 benchable.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get 5 ghz on air once.... before the vrms on my cheap board blew... I was performing a test to see if a certain board could handle the 8 core chip that claimed it could was a cheap MSI board... G 45 I think it was... ... and it did fine up to about 4.2... 5 ghz for a single bench (not stable at all) did ok... barely... 4.5 was max stable... and then one day the smoke came out and killed the board and chip.... RIP 8150
> yeah... I'll stick to the high end boards now... I've done similar tests with cheap ASUS boards... so far throttling was all I had an issue with them...no smoke.... does ASUS boards even come with smoke to release so you know they blew?..... lol... sorry... my sense of humor is off a bit this morning... bad nights sleep.
Click to expand...

my 4.8 run is on my FX rig and I can't be bothered booting it up just for that.

Here's it at 4.6:


Here is the validation for 4.8: http://valid.x86.fr/6i3k2n

Found my HWBOT sub: http://hwbot.org/submission/3207903

5056Mhz at 1.476v Bench stable









If you want more proof then I ain't got any on hand sorry


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I was just picking.... I believe you.... but there have been soooo many claims of bizarre high clocks on air I couldn't help myself.


----------



## mus1mus

Ohhh you two!


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> my 4.8 run is on my FX rig and I can't be bothered booting it up just for that.
> 
> Here's it at 4.6:
> 
> 
> Here is the validation for 4.8: http://valid.x86.fr/6i3k2n
> 
> Found my HWBOT sub: http://hwbot.org/submission/3207903
> 
> 5056Mhz at 1.476v Bench stable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want more proof then I ain't got any on hand sorry


What cooling did you use on that?


----------



## Mega Man

That would be the 212


----------



## tashcz

Well for a 30EUR cooler the results are great.

By the way, which software do you guys use to control the fans?

Aura has really bad BIOS fan settings - case fans can't go under 60% and I have a couple of JetFlo's on the case that are damn noisy. I also must try to see if I can control different fan outputs independently. I'm thinking of SpeedFan since AIsuite is really bad also.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> That would be the 212


212X!!

It's the X that makes all the difference


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Well for a 30EUR cooler the results are great.
> 
> By the way, which software do you guys use to control the fans?
> 
> Aura has really bad BIOS fan settings - case fans can't go under 60% and I have a couple of JetFlo's on the case that are damn noisy. I also must try to see if I can control different fan outputs independently. I'm thinking of SpeedFan since AIsuite is really bad also.


You sure? PWM Mode?

There are 3 settings for PWM on most Asus boards. Max, Mid, and Min.


----------



## tashcz

Yeah but they dont go under 60 percent for manual. And min max and mid dont offer any control so that doesnt do it for me. Also on sabertooth are all pwm ports independant?


----------



## f1LL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Yeah but they dont go under 60 percent for manual. And min max and mid dont offer any control so that doesnt do it for me. Also on sabertooth are all pwm ports independant?


I don't know if the ports on Sabertooths are independantly controllable in software, since I dual boot and don't want to deal with software control twice, but in my Sabertooth rev.1's BIOS it's the same as you describe for the Aura. You have one for CPU and one for for all chassis fans. Chassis fans can not be set lower than 60% with manual control.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Yeah but they dont go under 60 percent for manual. And min max and mid dont offer any control so that doesnt do it for me. Also on sabertooth are all pwm ports independant?


I had Corsair Link because i have an H100i cooler but all of a sudden the software didn't work correctly anymore so i installed Alsuite 3 instead in order to control my fans. Its working very good, better than expected to be honest. Before i ran quite mode with Corsair Link but whenever i want to game or something demanding i had to change the profile to performance which is utterly loud and even than the fans don't even ramp up to maximum. Now i have almost all my fans connected to the motherboard and set an custom fan profile and i can't even hear my system at idle or light work like browsing and stuff but under heavy load the fans ramp up pretty quick and its doing an fantastic job.

I do want to point out that with my motherboard i am not able to control all the headers separately. I have 3 CPU fan headers and when the CPU gets too hot all 3 are ramping up, same as for chassis fan. I do not mind though because when i do demanding stuff i wear my headphones anyway especially when i am gaming so for me its not that big of a deal. Even than, its less loud than when i use the Corsair Link because whenever i try to set an custom fan curve the fans are ramping up and down all the time which is very annoying.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f1LL*
> 
> I don't know if the ports on Sabertooths are independantly controllable in software, since I dual boot and don't want to deal with software control twice, but in my Sabertooth rev.1's BIOS it's the same as you describe for the Aura. You have one for CPU and one for for all chassis fans. *Chassis fans can not be set lower than 60% with manual control*.


In Alsuite 3 i can get them running as low as 40%.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *f1LL*
> 
> I don't know if the ports on Sabertooths are independantly controllable in software, since I dual boot and don't want to deal with software control twice, but in my Sabertooth rev.1's BIOS it's the same as you describe for the Aura. You have one for CPU and one for for all chassis fans. *Chassis fans can not be set lower than 60% with manual control*.
> 
> 
> 
> In Alsuite 3 i can get them running as low as 40%.
Click to expand...

It depends on the fans really, some have a higher rpm cutoff than others, also 40% of 3000 is greater than 60% of 1500


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> It depends on the fans really, some have a higher rpm cutoff than others, also 40% of 3000 is greater than 60% of 1500


Yeah, some are better undervolters than others indeed. Fortunately my Noctua Fans are good undervolters and i have huge performance head room when i need.


----------



## f1LL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> In Alsuite 3 i can get them running as low as 40%.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> It depends on the fans really, some have a higher rpm cutoff than others, also 40% of 3000 is greater than 60% of 1500


Sorry, I should've been more clear. What I meant was the BIOS won't allow for less than 60% min while using the "manual" setting for the chassis fans. And I'm pretty sure that is "fan-agnostic".

Edit: Oh, I also forgot to mention I was talking about PWM fans.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> It depends on the fans really, some have a higher rpm cutoff than others, also 40% of 3000 is greater than 60% of 1500
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, some are better undervolters than others indeed. Fortunately my Noctua Fans are good undervolters and i have huge performance head room when i need.
Click to expand...

it's what the fans min rotation speed is rated at, most Noctuas are rated for 200rpm, the iPPC 3000rpm fans are rated for 750rpm but even then it could be +/- 20% as well.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f1LL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> In Alsuite 3 i can get them running as low as 40%.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> It depends on the fans really, some have a higher rpm cutoff than others, also 40% of 3000 is greater than 60% of 1500
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sorry, I should've been more clear. What I meant was the BIOS won't allow for less than 60% min while using the "manual" setting for the chassis fans. And I'm pretty sure that is "fan-agnostic".
> 
> Edit: Oh, I also forgot I was talking about PWM fans.
Click to expand...

Sounds about right for the BIOS side of things tbh


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yeah, some are better undervolters than others indeed. Fortunately my Noctua Fans are good undervolters and i have huge performance head room when i need.


hmm. PWM don't Undervolt!

Use a PWM fan on a non PWM header and that can only be adjusted with Voltage.

PWM with Voltage threshold is not accurate as well.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Yeah but they dont go under 60 percent for manual. And min max and mid dont offer any control so that doesnt do it for me. Also on sabertooth are all pwm ports independant?


Well then, Intel Kitty can do lower than 50%

How about setting the temp BIAS? Is that present?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> it's what the fans min rotation speed is rated at, most Noctuas are rated for 200rpm, the iPPC 3000rpm fans are rated for 750rpm but even then it could be +/- 20% as well.


Yep, they spin normally at +- at 875 rpm and i can't even hear them but still have decent performance. That is one reason i choose these fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> it's what the fans min rotation speed is rated at, most Noctuas are rated for 200rpm, the iPPC 3000rpm fans are rated for 750rpm but even then it could be +/- 20% as well.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Sounds about right for the BIOS side of things tbh


I checked in BIOS and indeed i cannot set them lower than 60%. That doesn't bother me though i can still set them lower in Alsuite 3.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> *hmm. PWM don't Undervolt!
> *
> Use a PWM fan on a non PWM header and that can only be adjusted with Voltage.
> 
> PWM with Voltage threshold is not accurate as well.
> Well then, Intel Kitty can do lower than 50%
> 
> How about setting the temp BIAS? Is that present?


What do you mean? When i lower the fan speed i need to lower the voltage or am i missing something?


----------



## mus1mus

PURE PWM is not adjusted by Voltage Levels but the length (Width of the Voltage Waveform) applied. The Value is 5V IIRC. Longer waveforms result to higher DUTY CYCLE thus the speed.


----------



## SwishaMane

Wanted to shout out to all the SaberTooth homies... Ive been having issues with my 990FX lately, but she is still working. This is the same board i rendered dead after water leak, but it showed signs of life this past weekend after 2 months sitting in a closet...

Looking to acquire some parts on the cheap to get it running as my HTPC, and I need a couple things...

*Anyone have an AM3+ backplate and top clips?

Anyone have a stock CPU cooler good enough for a Phenom II quad?*



My issue is the "New CPU installed" error on every boot. _New battery, CMOS reset, BIOS re-flash... all no go..._ Boiled it down to socket bending. Re-seating the CPU just right I can get the board to work perfectly normal. I don't have a spare backplate and clips or a compatible cooler to test correctly. As scary as it sounds, I was on my tech station with a tower cooler just sitting on top the CPU, no mounting hardware (!!!). LOL, it made due tho. I'm THINKING once I have a cooler and backplate and such, the pressure will keep the CPU in contact and keep the socket flat.

THIS BOARD WORKS, just need to get it in the right spot. Even if it won't work right, I can set the BIOS to skip halting on F1 error, and still boot to windows. CPU and RAM just defaults to stock freqs. / lowest divider. _My 1866 RAM was defaulting to 1333._ I'm not trying to spend a bunch. Cheap set of DDR3 & cheap CPU can be mine the minute I need... just hoping for free / super cheap socket bracket and stock cooler if someone can bum one.

I regret giving my coolers away to friends because you always need something once you let it go.

And BTW, even if I can't get it running perfect, this combo would still be light years ahead of my current HTPC setup, my trusty old s939 dual core combo. Even if some DDR3 1600 defaults to 1066, thats still a DRAM freq. 2.66x faster than my DDR1.


----------



## f1LL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Wanted to shout out to all the SaberTooth homies... Ive been having issues with my 990FX lately, but she is still working. This is the same board i rendered dead after water leak, but it showed signs of life this past weekend after 2 months sitting in a closet...
> 
> Looking to acquire some parts on the cheap to get it running as my HTPC, and I need a couple things...
> 
> *Anyone have an AM3+ backplate and top clips?
> 
> Anyone have a stock CPU cooler good enough for a Phenom II quad?*
> 
> 
> 
> My issue is the "New CPU installed" error on every boot. _New battery, CMOS reset, BIOS re-flash... all no go..._ Boiled it down to socket bending. Re-seating the CPU just right I can get the board to work perfectly normal. I don't have a spare backplate and clips or a compatible cooler to test correctly. As scary as it sounds, I was on my tech station with a tower cooler just sitting on top the CPU, no mounting hardware (!!!). LOL, it made due tho. I'm THINKING once I have a cooler and backplate and such, the pressure will keep the CPU in contact and keep the socket flat.
> 
> THIS BOARD WORKS, just need to get it in the right spot. Even if it won't work right, I can set the BIOS to skip halting on F1 error, and still boot to windows. CPU and RAM just defaults to stock freqs. / lowest divider. _My 1866 RAM was defaulting to 1333._ I'm not trying to spend a bunch. Cheap set of DDR3 & cheap CPU can be mine the minute I need... just hoping for free / super cheap socket bracket and stock cooler if someone can bum one.
> 
> I regret giving my coolers away to friends because you always need something once you let it go.
> 
> And BTW, even if I can't get it running perfect, this combo would still be light years ahead of my current HTPC setup, my trusty old s939 dual core combo. Even if some DDR3 1600 defaults to 1066, thats still a DRAM freq. 2.66x faster than my DDR1.


I'm just thinking out loud here but since you had water damage, maybe it's not a bending issue but some corrosion in the socket or in between socket and board? Some loose corroded pieces creating shorts? Just a guess though.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f1LL*
> 
> I'm just thinking out loud here but since you had water damage, maybe it's not a bending issue but some corrosion in the socket or in between socket and board? Some loose corroded pieces creating shorts? Just a guess though.


Seems possible, although I'm about 90% sure water never got by the socket. Water dripped from disconnecting my GPU from PCI-E 1, which would put water by the NB. Never the less, she still functions, but its a definite limp if CPU isn't sitting just right.


----------



## f1LL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Seems possible, although I'm about 90% sure water never got by the socket. Water dripped from disconnecting my GPU from PCI-E 1, which would put water by the NB. Never the less, she still functions, but its a definite limp if CPU isn't sitting just right.


Ah ok, makes sense then.

Awesome thing that you got it back running anyways!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> PURE PWM is not adjusted by Voltage Levels but the length (Width of the Voltage Waveform) applied. The Value is 5V IIRC. Longer waveforms result to higher DUTY CYCLE thus the speed.


O wauw, i didn't know that, thanks for clearing that up









Yaay, OCN is back online. There was a huge DDos attack that crippled the whole east coast of America and pretty much crippled Europe.. Darn hackers...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> PURE PWM is not adjusted by Voltage Levels but the length (Width of the Voltage Waveform) applied. The Value is 5V IIRC. Longer waveforms result to higher DUTY CYCLE thus the speed.


Just for ref. The original standard is 5v, the new standard is 3.3


----------



## tashcz

I think pwm on pc fans is 12v constant, 100% sure, not sure about the pwm signal wires voltage. Anyway its not possible to go under 60p for case fans but thats not the problem. The mobos case fans connections do use only one pwm driver, so 50 percent pwm is 50pc to all case fans. Really sucks not to have at least 2 independent ones. I have a socket fan that starts at 50c socket at full speed and the intake fan connected to the cpu fans. But they have different noise levels and I cant get them to work in harmony. So the Aura sucks for fan connections. 3 case fans, 1 cpu, 1 cpu opt and a water pump header of which the case fans are bound together and the cpu fans are together too.


----------



## Mega Man

You are correct, the 12v is 12v the pwm signal is either 5v-3.3v


----------



## Synister

So I did a little swap out today of the old NZXT 120mm I had on the rear of the kitties socket. Replaced the NZXT with a Scyth 120mmx20mm fan. Fits much better than the old one. I also flipped my rear fan to become an intake and dropped a 90mm? iirk old fan back onto the VRM heatsink. A few pictures below.


Spoiler: Warning: Images! ^_^












Also to ask other's opinion, do you think the mobo at the socket looks bowed? Like I'm sure it's not just my eyes. Do I have my CPU cooler too tight?


----------



## sli_shroom

looks bowed to me. onely way to really know would be to throw a straight edge on it


----------



## miklkit

Two of the three Sabertooths I've had have been warped out of the box, so it is not unheard of. That tin strip over the VRMs is always bowed so ignore that. Ya, throw a straightedge on it and see.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Just for ref. The original standard is 5v, the new standard is 3.3


Thanks for the updated info.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> I think pwm on pc fans is 12v constant, 100% sure, not sure about the pwm signal wires voltage. Anyway its not possible to go under 60p for case fans but thats not the problem. The mobos case fans connections do use only one pwm driver, so 50 percent pwm is 50pc to all case fans. Really sucks not to have at least 2 independent ones. I have a socket fan that starts at 50c socket at full speed and the intake fan connected to the cpu fans. But they have different noise levels and I cant get them to work in harmony. So the Aura sucks for fan connections. 3 case fans, 1 cpu, 1 cpu opt and a water pump header of which the case fans are bound together and the cpu fans are together too.


Some fan headers have limited user configurable minimum Duty Cycle. CPU fan header IIRC allows lower than 60%.

Seriously though, if you want control, you can either look into an outboard PWM controller, lower speed fans, or at the cery least, a PWM entender that is present on some cases where you can use more fans off a single fan header.


----------



## Mega Man

or just get an aquaero and acept that it is the best fan controller on the market, bar none, and well worth the money.

if you whine about the cost, then you dont understand how awesome it is


----------



## tashcz

Well the CM Storm Stryker has it's own "fan controller", but that's not enogh for me.

I just need one more 3/4pin controllable output on the mobo. I think I'll plug my water pump to molex and use the controllable WP header on the board.

As of controllers, yeah, always wanted go get one, but Serbia has a really really bad stock of them, and I can't order NZXT from Amazon (shipping is 100$!) which I mostly looked for. They only have the Mesh model which IMO sucks. I will take a look at the Aquaero, looks really nice at the first sight







As a fan of Arduino I find it amusing.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> or just get an aquaero and acept that it is the best fan controller on the market, bar none, and well worth the money.
> 
> if you whine about the cost, then you dont understand how awesome it is


or you're broke.....::cue sad fallout death music::


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> or just get an aquaero and acept that it is the best fan controller on the market, bar none, and well worth the money.
> 
> if you whine about the cost, then you dont understand how awesome it is


I'd put the money on low speed fans and an extra rad tbh. But that's just me.

Besides, aquaero must be smuggled to get here.


----------



## hurricane28

Alsuite 3 works fine with my Noctua fans.. no need for fancy overpriced fan controller..


----------



## Mega Man

yea, feel free to research how often ai suite didnt work and it has killed cpus both in tel and amd .
ill keep a dedicated controller thanks

not to mention aisuite is in and of itself, trash


----------



## hurricane28

Alsuite 2 was buggy indeed and fan controller software didn't work at all, not to mention the weird EC sensor values that popped up. Now its a different story, there is a new revision of the software Al suite 3 and it works pretty well so far. Haven't had any issues with it yet and as a matter a fact, it works much better than Corsair Link software which i uninstalled because all of a sudden it monitors the water temp instead of the CPU temp which results in very high CPU temp and when i set it to CPU socket temp the fans still don't ramp up at 100% but rather spin up and down all the time which is annoying.

Now i don't have this problem anymore and the system is nice an quiet at idle and the fans ramp up quite nicely and keep my system cool without being too aggressive. I will keep an eye on the software though, i can monitor my system though Logitech arx software on my phone and it does an fantastic job.


----------



## JerDerv

Im i the only guy running speedfan?


----------



## Mega Man

one of the few


----------



## BinaryBummer

You think I should order a fan controller? I mean so many have issues with buying the fans and then the placement or the flow isn't right, yet it would seem that if this is a issue why can't one just buy a adjustable fan controller to raise or lower and of the fans as needed?

In sense a standard setting should work but internal temps only lower so far before you need a air conditioner unit dedicated. I mean really a 5000 BTU window unit is like 150 bucks with tax. I know that can ice down a PC.

Just doing a build half right can cost more and more. and then its all the shipping and if it arrives together or separate etc. I dunno at times. I think I will save a few bucks and get what I need and then try to get a Mechanical keyboard as well if I can stretch it.

I took back my 32" TV/monitor today and bought a used 24" 144mhz monitor. So far I like it. really bright and seems to be doing OK. I haven't checked into any other monitor testing software or Clocking etc. I wasn't aware that I had to use a DVI 2 in order to get 144mhz, and thought all I need was a better HDMI 2.0 cable.

After reading It seems DVI 2 is it. (at least for this model monitor.) I am hoping to get into some good gaming before long. I have been farting around with the PC and house work on and off between Doc appointments etc. I go for a few hours and I am exhausted. Got heart doc this week to. I hope it is just gas...

But yeah Case Fans, PSU and CPU Cooler is next, maybe the Mach KB.

BTW I think I need a new 40mm fan for the mobo VRM to. I need to find those posts on the two or three models that will last long term.

Cheers!


----------



## tashcz

I'd get a dedicated fan controller, but where are the good places to put the thermal probes at? I was looking at NZXT Sentry 3 and like that.

Or anyone reading this, get all noctuas and save yourselves from the noise 120 mm JetFlos and such can provide at 95CFM.


----------



## Mega Man

get a aquaero you wont regret it. as for temp probes depends on what you want to monitor/ how you want to control |


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> I'd get a dedicated fan controller, but where are the good places to put the thermal probes at? I was looking at NZXT Sentry 3 and like that.
> 
> Or anyone reading this, get all noctuas and save yourselves from the noise 120 mm JetFlos and such can provide at 95CFM.


lol. Noctuas are not the end all be all.

There are other brands that can compete with them but way cheaper.


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> lol. Noctuas are not the end all be all.
> 
> There are other brands that can compete with them but way cheaper.


You're probably right, but from how much I bought them, I was always amazed. Packaging, quality, accesories, and noise/performance ratio... it's just the best in the class.

When I bought my first one I couldn't believe they include regular screws, rubber screws, extension cables, Y cables and a bunch of other stuff with the fan. I've had some pretty expensive fans that just come with the screws and thats it, you gotta figure out the rest, if the cable is too short or you're out of splitters. But when you buy a noctua you're basicly all set to go.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> lol. Noctuas are not the end all be all.
> 
> There are other brands that can compete with them but way cheaper.


Okay, can you give me some brands or fans that perform the same or even better than my Noctua fans? I am curious because i was looking for a long time but couldn't find better than these.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> lol. Noctuas are not the end all be all.
> 
> There are other brands that can compete with them but way cheaper.
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, can you give me some brands or fans that perform the same or even better than my Noctua fans? I am curious because i was looking for a long time but couldn't find better than these.
Click to expand...

Deltas, GTs, Ultra Kaze etc, once those iPPC fans you have go above 2200-2300rpm noise no longer becomes a factor


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> lol. Noctuas are not the end all be all.
> 
> There are other brands that can compete with them but way cheaper.
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, can you give me some brands or fans that perform the same or even better than my Noctua fans? I am curious because i was looking for a long time but couldn't find better than these.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Deltas, GTs, Ultra Kaze etc, once those iPPC fans you have go above 2200-2300rpm noise no longer becomes a factor
Click to expand...

haha.

I hope someone realizes that IPPC Noctuas are measly copies of these:





for your reference.


----------



## hurricane28

Gotta love the power of these Delta fans man. Not only the heat but also dust and maybe some components leave your case along the way with these Hurricane wind fans lol









They sure look a like, what fan is that in the top picture?


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> lol. Noctuas are not the end all be all.
> 
> There are other brands that can compete with them but way cheaper.
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, can you give me some brands or fans that perform the same or even better than my Noctua fans? I am curious because i was looking for a long time but couldn't find better than these.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Deltas, GTs, Ultra Kaze etc, once those iPPC fans you have go above 2200-2300rpm noise no longer becomes a factor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> haha.
> 
> I hope someone realizes that IPPC Noctuas are measly copies of these:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for your reference.
Click to expand...

ummm.....kinda, The iPPC lineup are actually beefed up versions of their regular NF-F12 and NF-A14 and I should point out that there are only so many ways you can design a fan and still get good performance, acoustics and longevity.

I have quite a few of the Noctuas, They are good fans but as I said above, once you pass the 2200-2300rpm mark, excess noise isn't really an issue for you


----------



## mus1mus

@hurr,

DELTA AFB Series.

@Bilko,

Yeah, you can only do so much with the blade design. But it's rather obvious that Delta, San Ace, Nidec and other industrial Brands don't copy each other in terms of blade design.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> @hurr,
> 
> DELTA AFB Series.
> 
> @Bilko,
> 
> Yeah, you can only do so much with the blade design. But it's rather obvious that Delta, San Ace, Nidec and other industrial Brands don't copy each other in terms of blade design.


Very true but as you stated, those are industrial fans and while the iPPC lineup are quite capable of industrial tasks they mostly live in enthusiasts PCs

The tech world is full of "who did it firsts", at some point in time we'll stop caring about it and just choose the better product


----------



## mus1mus

Got you on that one.









Myself scrapped Deltas and went for 38mm Nidec Beta V TA450DC.










PWM up to 3800 RPM
Down to 20ish percent minimum.


----------



## Ernst0

Interesting info on fans. I await my first fan controller. It's a cheep one on cost, the Aerocool Fan Controller (F6XT). It will drive three cool master 2000 rpm sickle flow 120 fans and the really large fan on the Aerocool Air case. They will blow on the MB. The Air case is open.

I'm enjoying the technical issues I am learning about with system builds and OverClock is a major resource. Learning all the time now.
Tomorrow I will receive a ASUS AM3+ M.2 USB3.1 SafeSlot AMD ATX Motherboard (TUF Sabertooth 990FX R3.0) I am unhappy with the ASRock Fatal1ty board I have been running on as the primary MB in a three stacked MB build in one Aerocool Air case. I am still building my primary so the second and third MBs' are not in yet. So still a work in progress.
I'm not a gamer so much but with three monitors I just might try a race car or similar if it can use all three monitors.
I am reaching out here to join the club. I believe the Sabertooth is the best choice and I should have bought one before but live and learn.
With the Fatal1ty I've got HyperX memory that automatically overclocks to 1866 and run the AMD 9590 so on boot, for the first time, the system is unstable and the fix is to get into BIOS and set Memory to 1600 but as unstable it can be a real challenge to get to that point as the system hangs. I'm sure I spent over 40 minutes this last time to get that set. Also for some reason I don't understand I have to do this too often. The board doesn't beep on boot all the time and I suspect it should.
As I mentioned I am not a gamer I work with iterative functions and often have experimental programs running 24/7 for days, weeks and once six months. This rig, when finished, will stack three motherboards, have two 9590s' one 8350 in the cluster. It will host Message Passing Interface (MPI) programs. Which I think is really cool. Super Computer cool. I look forward to multi-core multi-cluster programming.

So hey! Any advice?

The primary MB
ASUS AM3+ M.2 USB3.1 SafeSlot AMD ATX Motherboard (TUF Sabertooth 990FX R3.0)
Memory
Kingston HyperX FURY 32GB (4x8GB) 1866MHz DDR3 CL10 DIMM - Blue
Primary Storage
Kingston Digital HyperX Predator 480 GB PCIe Gen2 x4 M.2 Solid State Drive 3.5-Inch SHPM2280P2/480G
Graphics Card
PNY GeForce GTX 960 XLR8 4GB Graphics Card VCGGTX9604XPB
Network Card
Intel PWLA8492MT PRO/1000 MT PCI/PCI-X Dual Port Server Adapter
CPU
AMD 9590
Cooling
Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate 360mm AIO Enthusiast Liquid Cooling System CPU Cooler CL-W007-PL12BL-A

I will also attempt a video on how to apply thermal paste razor thin. I have not seen good advice on that on Youtube. The answer is use a razor!
Anyway joining the Sabertooth Owners Club


----------



## BinaryBummer

be sure you memory choice is for AMD boards rather then XMP.. it may make it easier to install and use. You can still override it all in the bios as you know. D.O.C.P is onboard

Also the PCIe M.2 should you use there is a line in the r3.0 manual that refers to PCIe16_2 slot
*pg 3-22 states when the M.2 is set to 4X, PCIe_2 will have no function.*


----------



## Ernst0

I see that but that is Pcie16_2 and I need just one Graphics card so that will be fine. What would be problematic is if the PcieX1_2 didn't work because PcieX1_1 will be blocked by the Graphics card. I have a Bluetooth/WiFi card needs PcieX1_2
So cool. I will now kick back and read the manual. I'm sure everyone wants the best performance out of their equipment.
Thanks for your advice.

Edit:

Funny
http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R3.0/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R3_DRAM_QVL.pdf?_ga=1.49449318.1741367443.1476872859
It's XMP

So nope my memory is not listed as qualifying vendor at 1866 so I hope the Mem_Ok button can work magic. Was limited to 1600 on 970 chipset I am hopeful for more on the 990 and 950 set.

Second edit :
Ops cant use Pci LAN card.. My bad. Hopefully Graphics card will not cover PcieX1_1 need Bluetooth/WiFi and an extra two LAN ports.
What I want out of the deal is excellent data transfer. Such as accessing Swap memory and communicating with other MBs' . I do utilize very large data sets so often my data is in Swap (Linux)


----------



## BinaryBummer

My memory wasn't listed either, however as most goes others have used faster memory to on posts I have found on google, but in the end all ram is not equal by far.
I would like them to simplify it making less sticks that are just do able. Sad Asus can't get a better job done on the QVL leaving builders wondering. All I know I fought with the setting and then I was heck read a post somewhere and I switched it to DOCP and bang there is my right setting like XMP does, so that resolved one issue.

Now in the future it will be tweaking some probably with the slight Voltage changes maybe a few other things. I fight with a daily Mind fog so what is easy to understand takes me more effort. (like Fibrofog as the medical term, cloud of can't focus or get with it)

Happy building. I am all sure you will enjoy the mobo and all. It is still electronics so there is always a possibility of getting a defect or abused during shipping mishap.

On another note you can see my build i to am using 1866mhz with CL10 just Gskills

I off to bed.


----------



## Ernst0

Oh hey I totally get the mind fog. I didn't know my issues were Autism till I was 53. All those years of behavior issues and bad choices are somewhat explained knowing I have Asperger Syndrome. I have a medication that brings me up I take in the morning that keeps me steady for the job behavior wise. I like you and appreciate your help. I will keep your DOCP help in mind, The MB will come today. I love Sunday delivery







It is fun to Build.

I totally get the memory frustration because I had to try and learn how to adjust my settings and worked on OC'ing for the first time. I hate that I have 1866 MHZ memory and my system can't access that. Now on that subject my 9590 seems to be able to go over 5 GHZ but not stable on the Fatal1ty MB.
Looking at the Vendor List your Gskills is the real winner. I have to say I did not know of that brand. Also I would have thought if its ddr3 it should work anywhere.


----------



## miklkit

Hi!

You are running 32 gb of ram which is a lot for FX. Plus it is Kingston ram. Just for grins and chuckles I ran 16 gb of Kingston 2400 ram a couple of years ago and it was touchy. I got it to 2030mhz with timings like 13,13 but it was never really happy and I went back to G Skill ram. So ya, you are going to have to learn every trick in the book to get it running smoothly. There are some around here who already know those tricks and hopefully one will wander by soon.


----------



## Ernst0

Ernst sighs.

I am learning the hard way I'm thinking.
Yeah I own 64 GB of HypeX 1866 32 GB for each board 9590 board. I'm a number cruncher so I'm after the best I can get. It will be sad if I'm still stuck at 1600 but that is not so bad I guess. I do like that the Rev 3 says 1886 is not an OverClock setting so I have hope.
I am feeling like a parts store here lately.

Got the 990 in and am working on the hook ups but as feared a PcieX1_1 slot is blocked with the GTX 960 in so resorting to a Pciex16 riser cable so I can offset. This means a funky sideways graphics card. Interesting build, and i have to design a bracket so graphics card can be mounted in case sideways. Should I have fan hole face up or down? Probably face up?

I want my WiFi/Bluetooth card and dual LAN card in the PcieX1 slots and I'll be fine.

Yeah I sure want to avoid buying memory again if I can. Still I have hopes the Rev 3 might be able to sort it out. Isn't there a MemOk button that runs testing for best settings automatically? Was there such a thing on Rev 2 ?


----------



## miklkit

You should be able to get your ram running at 1866mhz but it will take some work to get it stable as 32gb puts a big strain on the memory controller. Use whatever settings work best no matter the source. I try all the settings no matter what they are called to find the base setting that works best. The ones that end in 2T might be best for you as they offer a little bit better stability with the cost of reduced speed.

Bumping up the ram voltage to 1.6v can also help with stability.


----------



## Ernst0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> You should be able to get your ram running at 1866mhz but it will take some work to get it stable as 32gb puts a big strain on the memory controller. Use whatever settings work best no matter the source. I try all the settings no matter what they are called to find the base setting that works best. The ones that end in 2T might be best for you as they offer a little bit better stability with the cost of reduced speed.
> 
> Bumping up the ram voltage to 1.6v can also help with stability.


I see my load on UPS is higher than I have seen it before
I am in ?UEFI BIOS. Yes it is running at 1867 Mhz
BIOS is 0212 7/18/2016

Huh strain on memory controller? That I need to investigate. Install W10 to stress and see?

System must see the predater it is installing a w10 system image
I'm a Linux guy mostly since I'm all about programming in C but I see that stress tools and other useful programs for testing system stability are well known under Windows. I want to learn more.
I have to install Windows first before I can install Fedora.
This MB is much better already so for second and maybe third too I want more of these
Told my daughter I would build a desktop from left overs lol I think she will do fine with a Fatal1ty ?
So if this MB can handle 32 GB is clocking memory at 1867 and CPU is good at 4700 then I will be happy
Perhaps a little more can be squeezed but from experiments I did not more than 5% more than likely.
Time to call it a day. 3 AM rise for work.
I thank you for helping.


----------



## Mega Man

you will just have to play alot, make sure to bump the imc- ( cpu/nb ) generally 0.1v ( ~ 1.2v) is enough but dont be scared to use ( A TOTAL - not in addition ) of up to 1.4v


----------



## Ernst0

Okay... I'll be working on that.
W10 did have some problems so I figure it will take some fiddling. Thanks.
Speaking of W10 that free upgrade. From W8 to W10 is void if you move to a new motherboard!
Yep like an OEM install only good for that one. Computer even if you W8 was retail!
$120.00 for W10 I complained and they gave me one more free upgrade but that is that.
So all of you with an image of your system who upgraded and upgrade your MB rots of ruck.


----------



## miklkit

Hmm. Then their policy has changed. I changed motherboards a lot with Win 7 and Win 8.1 and it was always a phone call away to get it fixed. When I changed to Win X it was with the understanding that I could keep on changing boards at will and that was how it has been. I used 3 different boards, but it has been over a year since the last change.

If that is their new policy it puts people like me on a fast train to another system.


----------



## Synister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Hmm. Then their policy has changed. I changed motherboards a lot with Win 7 and Win 8.1 and it was always a phone call away to get it fixed. When I changed to Win X it was with the understanding that I could keep on changing boards at will and that was how it has been. I used 3 different boards, but it has been over a year since the last change.
> 
> If that is their new policy it puts people like me on a fast train to another system.


I work in software sales. The Windows 10 'free' upgrade turned which ever version you owned previously, into an OEM Windows 10, on the hardware which accepted the free upgrade. Now the interesting part, is that I believe with Win 7, the OEM keys / copies were only good for 'one mobo', but the info provided by microsoft on OEM Win 10, states you can move the licence to a new PC, as long as the old one is formated and void of Windows.

Makes it a little more interesting than 'you can't'.


----------



## mus1mus

Here is the best part, that July 29 Free Upgrade Deadline, wasn't true.

I was able to do fresh W10 installs using W7 keys just last week.


----------



## PurpleChef

_SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 BIOS 2901
Improve system stability_

I wish there was more info. Im on 2501 right now. Haven't had any stability issues. Should i upgrade anyways?

Did you notice any diffrence?

SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 + FX8350


----------



## Mega Man

Most of those (not all) are minor tweaks to settings (at auto)

Ie the auto llc, current limits ect - When I started to notice this was throughout the release of the rivbe - you can still read the thread where raja talks about it


----------



## Ernst0

Well I have my W8.1 registered as installed on another computer and therefore after an hour of letting them walk around in fresh install they rebooted promising we would connect right back and nothing.
Still an in-valid copy of my 8.1 now.. ?

Oh man they really want me to solve this by giving them more money!
To tired to try more tonight.. stress test must happen on Fedora at this point I guess.. not in mood to drop $120 to get functionality yet.
Willing to bang head against perceived wall tomorrow after work..

One cool thing I saw as they navigated around this fresh install was CPU 5.09 GHZ. Killer Mother board. That's the 5% I was thinking i saw but much closer to 10% imo

Update:

There was no way to recover and activate using the 8.1 key so it looks like the issued me a new key.
I am now back using the image I made before so all is good.

Now I will learn ( yes newbe ) how to stress test and "tweek" so the system is stable using 32 GB.
I truely use 32+ GB on huge data sets. Actually under Linux I have had a 64 GB cache that I nearly filled up.
I work with experimental data encoders and I love trying to compress random data ! I know it's a fools game but hey I discovered a new kind of number by doing such so it's not been a wasted life








Thanks everyone who added to the W10 issue. I truly am lost as to the ways of Windows 10.
I do think at some point I want to try a car racing game but mostly I am on Fedora

Okay this Mother Board so far is killer! It's everything I thought I was buying before. I will buy a second for the second MB in this triple stacked build. I'll keep one Fatial1ty for the 8350 and OC that and that will be the third MB.
I now have enough extra parts to build my Daughter a Desktop so that is a bonus.
I started a Rig here so I'll finish that oiver the next weeks as well.

Time for work. I'll explore the stress testing after work.


----------



## Ernst0

I am sure not claiming experience but so far I see I have two basic options. I can have a CPU clocked at 5.093 and memory that is clocked at something like 1100 or I can have a CPU clocked at 4.7 and memory at 1866..

I welcome comments.

I welcome guidance..

Seriously this is a wonderful MoBo

The processing difference between 4.7 and 5.093 ?? I do a lot of iteration type processing. Is 5.093 the smartest choice? Slower to fetch from RAM but faster in processing out of local cache CPU wise?

I think I have a MoBo that can be worked with but If it is stable and so far mprime is not hanging the computer as I type it seems somewhat stable. Sure slower ram speed does the same.
Confused.

New at this not stupid


----------



## mus1mus

how do you test for stability?

32GB RAM may need a little TLC to stabilize but I don't think 1866 at 9-11-9-27-1T is that hard to reach.

If possible, use IBT AVX http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202 to stress test at 5GHz. Try to reach 20 runs of Very High with the right result or post the result here.
If mixing the RAM Clocks destabilizes the system, pretty sure a lot of people can help you with that. So don't be too discouraged to post your stress results screenshots.

IMO, 5GHz++ and a well tuned RAM is your best bet.









EDIT: just to add, 20 runs of IBT AVX is not the end all ... but a good way for you to gauge what's going on when you change some settings. It's pretty quick as well.
For your daily clocks though, we'll advise a longer stress test be it Prime or IBT AVX at MAX.


----------



## Ernst0

I was over in Fedora and downloaded MPrime. Option 15 at 8 core and setting 3 would freeze the display at 5.093 and memory around 17xx.
I also ran memtest86 but ram was passing at over 2000 but system was not stable. What I take away from this simple experimentation is as you suggest that I can go 5.093 and get memory above 1866. Right now it's stable at 4.7 and 1866 so that is better than what I had but I do want more!

Okay then. I will learn how to do this right. I am "all in" on this Rig so it's on me to learn OC-ing proper. It will take me some time. I am in the right place!
Than you and all I'm gonna be around.


----------



## mus1mus

Since it's a linux distro, try Google Stress App Test.

$sudo apt-get install stressapptest

This is a great tool for RAM stressing and very quick to find instability.

$stressapptest -W -s 3600

One hour of stress testing the RAM can equate to hours of memtest.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ernst0*
> 
> I was over in Fedora and downloaded MPrime. Option 15 at 8 core and setting 3 would freeze the display at 5.093 and memory around 17xx.
> I also ran memtest86 but ram was passing at over 2000 but system was not stable. What I take away from this simple experimentation is as you suggest that I can go 5.093 and get memory above 1866. Right now it's stable at 4.7 and 1866 so that is better than what I had but I do want more!
> 
> Okay then. I will learn how to do this right. I am "all in" on this Rig so it's on me to learn OC-ing proper. It will take me some time. I am in the right place!
> Than you and all I'm gonna be around.


Hehe. Hooked.









You remind me of me. I had it running at 4.7 and it was doing everything I wanted it to do, and then got a taste of the big 5-O. From then on it just wasn't good enough unless it was 5 oh.


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ernst0*
> 
> I am sure not claiming experience but so far I see I have two basic options. I can have a CPU clocked at 5.093 and memory that is clocked at something like 1100 or I can have a CPU clocked at 4.7 and memory at 1866..
> 
> I welcome comments.
> 
> I welcome guidance..
> 
> Seriously this is a wonderful MoBo
> 
> The processing difference between 4.7 and 5.093 ?? I do a lot of iteration type processing. Is 5.093 the smartest choice? Slower to fetch from RAM but faster in processing out of local cache CPU wise?
> 
> I think I have a MoBo that can be worked with but If it is stable and so far mprime is not hanging the computer as I type it seems somewhat stable. Sure slower ram speed does the same.
> Confused.
> 
> New at this not stupid


May I ask what voltages you used and what temps you got?


----------



## Ernst0

I will reset the system after work. Was trying to keep a 5.1x and raise ram but had to leave for work. And it was not stable.
For the 5.093 I had pressed ram ok after bad over clock of ram. Ram then was 11xx and CPU was 5.093 it was stable enough to run mprime.
Mind you, I am just beginning to learn how to tune this rig.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Does anyone use the Water output header rather then a CPUFan header on the R3.0?

I am wanting to be sure i can monitor ALL my fans and temps before OC'n this thing. I have not used the Power header in the case so I am rather not trusting it at this point.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> Does anyone use the Water output header rather then a CPUFan header on the R3.0?
> 
> I am wanting to be sure i can monitor ALL my fans and temps before OC'n this thing. I have not used the Power header in the case so I am rather not trusting it at this point.


Not used the one on my z170 sabertooth but I have a vario with my thumbscrew mod so all it would do is monitor rather than adjust the speed of my pump.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> Does anyone use the Water output header rather then a CPUFan header on the R3.0?
> 
> I am wanting to be sure i can monitor ALL my fans and temps before OC'n this thing. I have not used the Power header in the case so I am rather not trusting it at this point.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Not used the one on my z170 sabertooth but I have a vario with my thumbscrew mod so all it would do is monitor rather than adjust the speed of my pump.


Well I think I got it figured out for the time being. Fans are working and they are spinning up as temp goes up so that is working.


----------



## tashcz

Yep, you can monitor and control the WP header on the board. Just make sure you set it to 100% in BIOS and then change it in Windows via other software, just in case. Mine once stalled and it didn't look nice after that - had a major PC fail with a couple of components needed fixing, corrupt SSD etc.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Yep, you can monitor and control the WP header on the board. Just make sure you set it to 100% in BIOS and then change it in Windows via other software, just in case. Mine once stalled and it didn't look nice after that - had a major PC fail with a couple of components needed fixing, corrupt SSD etc.


I do have mine set to 100% both min and max cpu in Windows. I think I need to work on the case some.. I found that the pump fitting push against the ram just enough to stress the socket. I might get around to putting it back and see if I can reroute any of it.

I want to get more direct channeling of air flow in the case, I have a few ideas to solve that.


----------



## tashcz

Images are welcome!


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Images are welcome!


Hmm..


----------



## tashcz

What I ment was the case images, to see how your airflow is, but this is also interesting. Your chip seems well worn off if you need 1.524V for 4.5GHz. Seems a lot like my almost 4 years used 8320 which began to need 1.53V for 4.5GHz also.

IMO, you won't be able to get much more out of it. Temps aren't your issue, you're fine with 4.5GHz but don't think you'd be able to get 4.6 or more with decent voltage.


----------



## miklkit

Wow! That is way high for 4.5. My bad 8370 has a similar vid but isn't nearly that bad. One thing I noticed is that the VRMs are very hot. Some cooling there might help overall.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

You generally end up pumping voltage for a clock when cpu nb is too low


----------



## NonXistant

This is what i got so far, i can run stable at 4.9ghz, but Vcore1 gets to hot 75+


----------



## BinaryBummer

I just don't have a full understanding of what to tweak. I have to get step by step to make the adjustments. I am open to suggestions and yes i can adjust stuff. this is just what was on a video and i am sure it needs tweaking.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> What I ment was the case images, to see how your airflow is, but this is also interesting. Your chip seems well worn off if you need 1.524V for 4.5GHz. Seems a lot like my almost 4 years used 8320 which began to need 1.53V for 4.5GHz also.
> 
> IMO, you won't be able to get much more out of it. Temps aren't your issue, you're fine with 4.5GHz but don't think you'd be able to get 4.6 or more with decent voltage.


I have the factory fans in front and read then the 240 Lepa pulling out the top of the case plus I have a 40mm in the VRM for cooling some there.


----------



## NonXistant

What settings did you do in the Bios?
You can screenshot it with f12


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NonXistant*
> 
> What settings did you do in the Bios?
> You can screenshot it with f12


I am trying to get to it but my USB drive are gone.. trying to find them again. I think one is with my son up on campus... Derp!


----------



## tashcz

You can try your cellphone too, it will do the job









Did you try lower voltages and tested stability? How old is your chip?


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> What I ment was the case images, to see how your airflow is, but this is also interesting. Your chip seems well worn off if you need 1.524V for 4.5GHz. Seems a lot like my almost 4 years used 8320 which began to need 1.53V for 4.5GHz also.
> 
> IMO, you won't be able to get much more out of it. Temps aren't your issue, you're fine with 4.5GHz but don't think you'd be able to get 4.6 or more with decent voltage.


ok some pics, it is all clean in here..


----------



## tashcz

Are you pulling or pushing the air through the rad?


----------



## umeng2002

75° C isn't hot for a VRM. I'd be concerned if it went over 100+ °C


----------



## miklkit

These are the settings I used on my R2 Sabertooth to get to 5 ghz. Please do use them as a general guideline and not the gospel truth as Your Mileage WILL Vary. It is easier to get good answers when the questions are specific to a single line. There are lots of good people here eager to help you.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are the settings I used on my R2 Sabertooth to get to 5 ghz. Please do use them as a general guideline and not the gospel truth as Your Mileage WILL Vary. It is easier to get good answers when the questions are specific to a single line. There are lots of good people here eager to help you.


It would be all cool if I could run 5Ghz all the time but really if I get 4.8Ghz stable i know that would be a great load boost. Not sure how much from r2 board to r3 differs with other settings within. I walk on glass till I know just what I can do ad get away with..


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> You can try your cellphone too, it will do the job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you try lower voltages and tested stability? How old is your chip?


My chip is new, the only thing that is older is the PSU and drives and soundcard but board CPU, GPU, Case CPU Cooler are new.

I am pushing air OUT of case front fan is the only intake fan at 200mm


----------



## NonXistant

These are my stable 4.8ghz settings with a max temp of 54°c
Keep in mind that the voltages to the right are the stable ones for the 4.8ghz. purely on multiplyer

The ones currently set are much higher. I'm trying to reach 5.2ghz


----------



## BinaryBummer

nice
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NonXistant*
> 
> 
> 
> These are my stable 4.8ghz settings with a max temp of 54°c
> Keep in mind that the voltages to the right are the stable ones for the 4.8ghz. purely on multiplyer
> 
> The ones currently set are much higher. I'm trying to reach 5.2ghz


Nice and thats some settings I haven't heard of others doing. All the c6 c1 all disabled.. manual mode.


----------



## NonXistant

It can vary from mb to mb and from cpu to cpu. Just play around a little. Dont pass 1.46 on the cpu and 1.3 on nb till you understand what you are doing. And keep a close eye on your temperature when running burn test or prime


----------



## miklkit

There, you see? What others are doing should only be seen as general guidelines.

Example: What is the difference between using offset voltage and using manual voltage?

Cool and Quiet works with offset voltage but does not work with manual voltage.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> You generally end up pumping voltage for a clock when cpu nb is too low


Absolutely true
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> I just don't have a full understanding of what to tweak. I have to get step by step to make the adjustments. I am open to suggestions and yes i can adjust stuff. this is just what was on a video and i am sure it needs tweaking.


Post some bios screens and we can help.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> 75° C isn't hot for a VRM. I'd be concerned if it went over 100+ °C


Yea, well the difference between 60c and 70c could be the instability.

Yes they are hot for that voltage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are the settings I used on my R2 Sabertooth to get to 5 ghz. Please do use them as a general guideline and not the gospel truth as Your Mileage WILL Vary. It is easier to get good answers when the questions are specific to a single line. There are lots of good people here eager to help you.
> 
> 
> 
> It would be all cool if I could run 5Ghz all the time but really if I get 4.8Ghz stable i know that would be a great load boost. Not sure how much from r2 board to r3 differs with other settings within. I walk on glass till I know just what I can do ad get away with..
Click to expand...

General rules of thumb -
+0.1v to cpu/nb AND nb (around 1.2-1.25 on both with exceptions)
and some other asus only settings that until you cool your vrms I would bit mess with
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NonXistant*
> 
> It can vary from mb to mb and from cpu to cpu. Just play around a little. Dont pass 1.46 on the cpu and 1.3 on nb till you understand what you are doing. And keep a close eye on your temperature when running burn test or prime


Huh? Why?

If you can cool it, you can clock it.


----------



## NonXistant

By the looks of his setup in his previous post i doubt he can cool it, CPU wise yes. but not VRM and NB.
And since he stated he doesn`t really know what to do those a semi-safe voltages to not overheat it

Read previous posts, he posted Bios pics


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yea, well the difference between 60c and 70c could be the instability.


What? VRMs lose efficiency as temp increases. The voltage regulation should be the same until it starts to throttle or something.

There is Asus' Thermal Equilibrium mode and Current Balance mode; but in general VRM don't get "unstable" until they over current protection kicks in.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NonXistant*
> 
> By the looks of his setup in his previous post i doubt he can cool it, CPU wise yes. but not VRM and NB.
> And since he stated he doesn`t really know what to do those a semi-safe voltages to not overheat it
> 
> Read previous posts, he posted Bios pics


Ah whoops the joys of reading on a phone
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yea, well the difference between 60c and 70c could be the instability.
> 
> 
> 
> What? VRMs lose efficiency as temp increases. The voltage regulation should be the same until it starts to throttle or something.
> 
> There is Asus' Thermal Equilibrium mode and Current Balance mode; but in general VRM don't get "unstable" until they over current protection kicks in.
Click to expand...

Yea, physics would like to argue with you.
The cooler the vrms are the cleaner the power and more efficient vrms are


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> 75° C isn't hot for a VRM. I'd be concerned if it went over 100+ °C


What..? 75c on the vrm's causes stability issues.. 100c on the vrm's can also warp your board so its not advised to run them that hot.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> What..? 75c on the vrm's causes stability issues.. 100c on the vrm's can also warp your board so its not advised to run them that hot.


my chest hurts im pretty sure you and mega just agreed on something....


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> my chest hurts im pretty sure you and mega just agreed on something....


lol, yeah i think so.


----------



## mus1mus

Spoiler: Nice and a very good thing. :P


----------



## NonXistant

Start of a new friendship


----------



## miklkit

@BinaryBummer You have a Phanteks Enthoo case. The experts love it but it does have issues with that 200mm front fan. As in it doesn't move any air thus starving both the cpu and gpu. It says that that case can use 120mm and 140mm fans. I suggest that you replace that 200mm front fan with 3 of these bad boys. http://www.coolerguys.com/840556104087.html

They are 120mm fans but there are none better. You should replace your radiator fans with 2 of them also. If 2150 rpm is too much for you then get the 1850rpm versions.


----------



## NonXistant

Please go for noctua or coolermaster. The have a much higher cfm


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NonXistant*
> 
> Please go for noctua or coolermaster. The have a much higher cfm


CFM is a very misleading spec.

I'm not saying Noctua is bad, but you need not to look at Brands.

There are many ways you can go for fans. Looks, specs, usage.


----------



## miklkit

The Noctua fans are very good but the Coolermaster fans are a joke. Nothing but nothing beats the GTs.

A case fan pulls air in past the filters and then pushes it in past restrictions like hard drive cages. Look at the 2nd list in the 1st post of this thread to get an idea of what works and what does not. You can not have good cooling without having good case intake fans. They have to feed cool filtered air to both the CPU and the GPU in greater volume than the case exhaust fans do.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1274407/fans-the-most-complete-and-comprehensive-array-of-tests-and-benchmarks


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> @BinaryBummer You have a Phanteks Enthoo case. The experts love it but it does have issues with that 200mm front fan. As in it doesn't move any air thus starving both the cpu and gpu. It says that that case can use 120mm and 140mm fans. I suggest that you replace that 200mm front fan with 3 of these bad boys. http://www.coolerguys.com/840556104087.html
> 
> They are 120mm fans but there are none better. You should replace your radiator fans with 2 of them also. If 2150 rpm is too much for you then get the 1850rpm versions.


Those are some of the fans I have been considering for the case. The GT have been the strong contender for years.


----------



## BinaryBummer

New issue, seems after I rotated my CPU base around last night for whatever reason my case power switch is not turning on the PC.

I am having to use the Power Button on the motherboard to power up the board.

I did a Ctrl BIOS short to see if that was a issue or something hanging but it is still the same. I don't know if the switch is bad or not but I will check it a bit later to see if there is any continuity.

FIXED


----------



## Redwoodz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> What..? 75c on the vrm's causes stability issues.. 100c on the vrm's can also warp your board so its not advised to run them that hot.


But is it really 75c? haha!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> New issue, seems after I rotated my CPU base around last night for whatever reason my case power switch is not turning on the PC.
> 
> I am having to use the Power Button on the motherboard to power up the board.
> 
> I did a Ctrl BIOS short to see if that was a issue or something hanging but it is still the same. I don't know if the switch is bad or not but I will check it a bit later to see if there is any continuity.


Check all the small pins/connectors at the bottom of the motherboard for the front panel.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redwoodz*
> 
> But is it really 75c? haha!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check all the small pins/connectors at the bottom of the motherboard for the front panel.


Got the switch issue resolved.. Fixed


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redwoodz*
> 
> But is it really 75c? haha!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check all the small pins/connectors at the bottom of the motherboard for the front panel.


Yes, 55c or 75c can be the difference between stable and not stable.


----------



## Mega Man




----------



## mus1mus

Are you guys playing around the VCore Switching Frequency? It can help with temps as well as stability.

Lower Frequency = Less times the VRM goes into ON mode = Lower VRM Temps.


----------



## hurricane28

Yep i noticed that too. I used to do what people call here, brute force overclocking with high voltages and settings which than results in unnecessary high temps but the opposite works the best. Also playing in the Digi+ area helps a lot with vrm and CPU temps i noticed. Like power phase control, CPU voltage frequency, power response control etc. those things can really add up to the heat of the vrm and or CPU.


----------



## NonXistant

I just send my mobo back. It's bend!? Maybe thats why it gets hot. Also when dismantling the mobo i literally pulled of my usb 3.0 socket... RMA incoming Asus. So back tot the drawing board ?


----------



## hurricane28

Its called warped. The section of the vrm's were totally warped which results in low contact between the heat sink and the vrm. Hopefully you are more lucky with the new board.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NonXistant*
> 
> I just send my mobo back. It's bend!? Maybe thats why it gets hot. Also when dismantling the mobo i literally pulled of my usb 3.0 socket... RMA incoming Asus. So back tot the drawing board ?


I had my USB 3 front panel plugged into the mid one and then I re routed it to the edge and I really had to pull hard on it. I mean they show flexing in the test labs of the board but i see they need to thickin or somehow reinforce these boards better.

We have those HUGE air heat sinks that have weight to them and the GPU cards are heavy and hang sideways as well. Giving the faq they have constant heat applied leads up to warp or stress damage.


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ah whoops the joys of reading on a phone
> Yea, physics would like to argue with you.
> The cooler the vrms are the cleaner the power and more efficient vrms are


Is it clean power or efficiency? Those aren't totally related.


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Are you guys playing around the VCore Switching Frequency? It can help with temps as well as stability.
> 
> Lower Frequency = Less times the VRM goes into ON mode = Lower VRM Temps.


I think I tried increasing it once because that would theoretically give a "smoother" output (better transient response), but it caused instability; so I just out it back to auto and all was well.

But if you read literature on the subject, that instability is probably due to the either the increased dropout voltage or reduced current capability at higher temps and from increased component loss (independent from temp - like inductor loss, etc.).

The switching characteristics are not directly related to temp.

Stop just looking at the temps for stability in a voltage regulator.

http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/TND388-D.PDF



The only reason to keep it a cool as possible is really efficiency (i.e. avoiding current limiters).

But in the end, do what works with your set up.


----------



## Ernst0

I have not been able to keep things stable at 5.x I assume it wasn't stable before


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Are you guys playing around the VCore Switching Frequency? It can help with temps as well as stability.
> 
> Lower Frequency = Less times the VRM goes into ON mode = Lower VRM Temps.


I just looked and mine was on auto, so I switched it to manual and 300. Time will tell if it helps or not.

Two of my three Sabertooths were warped out of the box. I'm currently running the non warped one and it runs much cooler than the other.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I just looked and mine was on auto, so I switched it to manual and 300. Time will tell if it helps or not.
> 
> Two of my three Sabertooths were warped out of the box. I'm currently running the non warped one and it runs much cooler than the other.


Why do you have 3 Sabertooth boards if you don't mind me asking? I mean, if i discovered that my board was warped i would immediately return it from where i bought it from.


----------



## miklkit

I only have 2 now. The one in the pic was RMA'd that same day. The next one was still warped but not too badly and I kept it. Later I damaged it and bought a 3rd one which is pretty straight.

Then I got the 2nd one repaired. It works and I keep it for a spare. It is straighter now than it was new. Perhaps the severe heat while it was bolted into the case helped it some. It is the one where the VRMs were idling at 43C while this one is currently idling at 36C.

So I tried IBT AVX with the VCore Switching Frequency at 300 and got a BSOD. Back to auto I went.


----------



## Ernst0

Just a FYI called Asus this morning aske why drive light is on all the time. They said with SSD in M.2 that is normal.
Bummer annoying. Will unplug tonight.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ernst0*
> 
> Just a FYI called Asus this morning aske why drive light is on all the time. They said with SSD in M.2 that is normal.
> Bummer annoying. Will unplug tonight.


\

hmm.. that I wasn't aware of..


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I only have 2 now. The one in the pic was RMA'd that same day. The next one was still warped but not too badly and I kept it. Later I damaged it and bought a 3rd one which is pretty straight.
> 
> Then I got the 2nd one repaired. It works and I keep it for a spare. It is straighter now than it was new. Perhaps the severe heat while it was bolted into the case helped it some. It is the one where the VRMs were idling at 43C while this one is currently idling at 36C.
> 
> *So I tried IBT AVX with the VCore Switching Frequency at 300 and got a BSOD. Back to auto I went.*


It needs to be played with. Not directly going down to minimum.

I monitor the effect thru HWInfo. Double click VCore Reading to open up a graph. (Having no access to an actual oscilloscope)

It does affect the Voltage Levels during load. IIRC, it shows a 0.025V of swings both on the lower and higher side if tuned. I also remember not using Very High LLC on the kitty and when the frequency is properly tuned, I can get a pretty flat VCore value on the graph under load.

Think of this. If LLC and Switching frequency are tuned, you either get a -0.025, 0, or +0.025 from the mean value you of the VCore you have selected.


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ernst0*
> 
> Just a FYI called Asus this morning aske why drive light is on all the time. They said with SSD in M.2 that is normal.
> Bummer annoying. Will unplug tonight.


not normal in my case...but then again...i have never been called normal.

using a toshiba rd400 in the m.2 slot. running in nvme mode. drive activity light is wired into my reset switch and works normal. running the latest bios

only issue i have run into is that on restart, the drive is sometimes not found. probably happens 1 out of 10 restarts. i think it is a power issue because i was getting instability warnings when i rebooted.

doesnt happen on a power off/power on...just a restart


----------



## Ernst0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> not normal in my case...but then again...i have never been called normal.
> 
> using a toshiba rd400 in the m.2 slot. running in nvme mode. drive activity light is wired into my reset switch and works normal. running the latest bios
> 
> only issue i have run into is that on restart, the drive is sometimes not found. probably happens 1 out of 10 restarts. i think it is a power issue because i was getting instability warnings when i rebooted.
> 
> doesnt happen on a power off/power on...just a restart


Hummmzzzzz I have the Kingston Predator and they asked that. Maybe Predator specific?
No missing drive so far but Asus did ask that question.
I have a Blue theme so the red light on https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HG7HO22/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1 power reset is a distraction.

Anyone with an R.3.0 + Predator 480 and their drive light works right?


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ernst0*
> 
> Hummmzzzzz I have the Kingston Predator and they asked that. Maybe Predator specific?
> No missing drive so far but Asus did ask that question.
> I have a Blue theme so the red light on https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HG7HO22/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1 power reset is a distraction.
> 
> Anyone with an R.3.0 + Predator 480 and their drive light works right?


That would be like a nuclear launch button on the desktop.


----------



## miklkit

Is this an M3 issue or is SATA involved also? I'm just curious.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Is this an M3 issue or is SATA involved also? I'm just curious.


I'm not sure but my M.2 is blinking properly. Maybe it is something per specific drive to mobo.


----------



## sli_shroom

I m running the m.2 drive and 3 ssds over sata. All relort correctly with the activity light


----------



## Ernst0

Don't know. Was told motherboard is working and nothing was wrong by Asus help.
Yes a nuclear launch indicator. Annoyingly bright red on a blue theme.


----------



## NonXistant

Allright they are swapping the mobo. I had a BeQuiet Silent Base 800. I bought a phanteks enthoo pro. Swapped the 200 fan for 2 times 140 Silent wings 2. Inside i put 2 noctua 120 on the bracket mounts. A 140 noctua at the bottom as intake. CM 240m rad at the top (not sure yet if i want push/pull) and 2 time 120 outtake at the top and back.

Oh yead the 40mm inside the spacing on the mobo.
Hope this kinda keeps it cool and quiet
On the pic it still shows the 200mm at the front. Swapped for 2x140


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ernst0*
> 
> Don't know. Was told motherboard is working and nothing was wrong by Asus help.
> Yes a nuclear launch indicator. Annoyingly bright red on a blue theme.


Tape. A strip of tape the same color as the case will fix it.


----------



## Ernst0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Tape. A strip of tape the same color as the case will fix it.


Funny! Either a tripple stacked motherboards I elected to make the front of the Air case two 5.5 drive bays and use a. Corded power-reset unit since I need three separate power buttons.
Want a picture? I'm slowly doing the build.
Now that I am happy with sabertooth 990 fox I can add the two others but sort of want a second sabertooth 990 fix. Debating the purchase of another's


----------



## Ernst0

I have had nothing plugged in with the Predator with the hdd led lit.

I'm open to walk through here.

I do have 50 GB Bluray DVD, 6TB SATA drive Wireless mouse and keyboard as well as several other TB drives here


----------



## tintreach

Think I need some help getting my memory dialed in with this PC I built. 990FX R3.0 paired up with a 8350 and using this Corsair Vengeance ram as well.

http://www.corsair.com/en-us/vengeance-16gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmz16gx3m2a1866c10

I cant get this speed set at 1866 or 1333 even with the noted timings timings. The whole AI tweak is a little awkward diving back into Asus's realm. So far it's not running bad but I know I can get this dialed in a little better.


----------



## miklkit

Hi!

I own an R2 but the only way I can get my G Skill ram to 1866 is with multi only overclocks and even then it is hard to get it to stick. I just settled for 1600 and then fsb OCed it.


----------



## NonXistant

In the AI tweaker isnt there just an option with memory frequentie?

If it doesnt show make sure you're on the latest bios, and set ai overclock tuner to manual.


----------



## miklkit

It is there but it was wonky for me and seems to be wonky for tintreach too. I wanted a mixture of multi and fsb but could not do it.


----------



## tintreach

Ok, now I am able to get normal speeds and timings. You have to set the timings first and bounce it, go back into AI and then set the speed. It doesn't auto update the speed mhz drop down after setting the timings hence why you have to save and restart.

Still not seeing any difference on the benchmarks between Auto, [email protected] or [email protected]

Interesting


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tintreach*
> 
> Think I need some help getting my memory dialed in with this PC I built. 990FX R3.0 paired up with a 8350 and using this Corsair Vengeance ram as well.
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/en-us/vengeance-16gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmz16gx3m2a1866c10
> 
> I cant get this speed set at 1866 or 1333 even with the noted timings timings. The whole AI tweak is a little awkward diving back into Asus's realm. So far it's not running bad but I know I can get this dialed in a little better.


yea seems the 3.0 is pretty picky with memory...granted mine isnt on the qvl. i am running CMY32GX3M4B2133C11 and had to go down to 1600 or i would get random lockups in a couple games. since setting it to 1600, no issues.

the spd timings it defaulted to were 1333...sigh

always been a corsair fan but i think it may be time to switch. it could be the 4 sticks loading the controller as well


----------



## BinaryBummer

Sometimes in the bios I found I have you have to go into default settings save and re-enter the BIOS then make the changes. The BIOS seems to default back to settings when you try to set the AUTO to something other.

For whatever reason I have to keep going back to D.O.C.P. then my settings stay. I guess i am saying there is a procedure here to when you want to set something you may have to default and run through things again, then save etc..

Other will Chime in.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tintreach*
> 
> Think I need some help getting my memory dialed in with this PC I built. 990FX R3.0 paired up with a 8350 and using this Corsair Vengeance ram as well.
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/en-us/vengeance-16gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmz16gx3m2a1866c10
> 
> I cant get this speed set at 1866 or 1333 even with the noted timings timings. The whole AI tweak is a little awkward diving back into Asus's realm. So far it's not running bad but I know I can get this dialed in a little better.


Why are you using ALsuite3 for setting up your memory? Just do it in BIOS, i never use software to overclock or change settings.

You have to set the timing manually, look at the package the memory came in and dial those timings in. Set voltage little higher than 1.65 v and you are good to go. 10-11-10-30 timings are a bit high if you ask me, i am using almost the same timings on my 2400 MHz kit. Try lower timings and little higher voltage.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tintreach*
> 
> Ok, now I am able to get normal speeds and timings. You have to set the timings first and bounce it, go back into AI and then set the speed. It doesn't auto update the speed mhz drop down after setting the timings hence why you have to save and restart.
> 
> Still not seeing any difference on the benchmarks between Auto, [email protected] or [email protected]
> 
> Interesting


You may need to slightly increase ram voltage above stock (ie +0.025v)
Cpu/nb or nb if either is at stock add 0.1v
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> Sometimes in the bios I found I have you have to go into default settings save and re-enter the BIOS then make the changes. The BIOS seems to default back to settings when you try to set the AUTO to something other.
> 
> For whatever reason I have to keep going back to D.O.C.P. then my settings stay. I guess i am saying there is a procedure here to when you want to set something you may have to default and run through things again, then save etc..
> 
> Other will Chime in.


NEVER use docp just do it manually


----------



## tintreach

Finally got something working right greater than 4.3 tonight. I'm seeing some weird temp spikes and I'm not sure its not a false reading.





Any thoughts?


----------



## miklkit

Temperatures!









You have 3 readings at 100C and 3 readings at 90C! On an R2 vcore-1 is the VRMs and they should never go over 80C as their ability to provide the cpu with power falls off with temperatures.

Basically that motherboard is burning up from the heat. Give it some cooling air.


----------



## tintreach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Temperatures!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have 3 readings at 100C and 3 readings at 90C! On an R2 vcore-1 is the VRMs and they should never go over 80C as their ability to provide the cpu with power falls off with temperatures.
> 
> Basically that motherboard is burning up from the heat. Give it some cooling air.


Look at the graph closer, its a split second spike. Its damn near impossible to go to 33c to 90c and back to 33c in that time frame. It shows up as a 1 second blip on the graph


----------



## tashcz

For a start I'd advise a BIOS reflash. If that doesn't work, try another monitoring tool maybe? Things like this happen some times. I get fans showing 635k RPM and some weird temp that starts to appear once in a while showing 120C and doesn't want to go away.


----------



## tashcz

Another thing man, I think your RAM timings aren't right.


----------



## tintreach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Another thing man, I think your RAM timings aren't right.


Yeah I'm not 100% sure those spikes are indeed actual readings, Now that I am looking for it I see it no matter where the thing is clocked.
The timings are set at the "tested" timings and not SPD right now. I was having some issues getting it to boot so I rolled them back to 10-11-10-30. Not impressed with the RAM thus far.

http://www.corsair.com/en-us/vengeance-16gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmz16gx3m2a1866c10

I did get it to post with tighter timings but the performance tanked even though it passed the prime test. More stuff to iron out and dial in but as it stands I'm not sure how much more I can squeeze out of it on a 650W PSU nor do I think I want to find out. Not sure what the gains will be trying to get it 24/7 stable at 4.7 or 4.8. I'll give the reflash a go sometime tomorrow and see what happens.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tintreach*
> 
> Finally got something working right greater than 4.3 tonight. I'm seeing some weird temp spikes and I'm not sure its not a false reading.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?


Hi man,

I have those max temp readings in HWINFO64 as well. It seems a bug in HWINFO64 itself but it can also be the EC sensor because its EC sensor related readings. Some times i get an eventID about this EC Sensor that it puts out more data than needed or something, i don't remember correctly. HWINFO64 also warns about this sensor because it can cause system performance issues and is not very accurate with readings.


----------



## hurricane28

On another note, it seems that when i do an Windows 10 update, i get more disc space lol.

Last time it was 3,99 TB and now its 4TB which can be removed lol.



This is the event ID i got with the EC sensor enabled:



And this is the HWINFO64 screen:



It started after the latest update of HWINFO64 if i remember correctly and hopefully will be solved in a future release.


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tintreach*
> 
> Yeah I'm not 100% sure those spikes are indeed actual readings, Now that I am looking for it I see it no matter where the thing is clocked.
> The timings are set at the "tested" timings and not SPD right now. I was having some issues getting it to boot so I rolled them back to 10-11-10-30. Not impressed with the RAM thus far.
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/en-us/vengeance-16gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmz16gx3m2a1866c10
> 
> I did get it to post with tighter timings but the performance tanked even though it passed the prime test. More stuff to iron out and dial in but as it stands I'm not sure how much more I can squeeze out of it on a 650W PSU nor do I think I want to find out. Not sure what the gains will be trying to get it 24/7 stable at 4.7 or 4.8. I'll give the reflash a go sometime tomorrow and see what happens.


But, your RAMs XMP profile is CL10 and you're using CL11? I'm not meaning you should OC your RAM but it's not running at the timings it should, it must. It's rated for that.

Anyway, as far as your problem with readings go, it's faulty readings 100%, just not sure if it's BIOS or software. And on a 630W PSU you should be good till 4.8GHz, at that point my PC uses 400W just for the CPU + system. 4.9 would actually require around 430 or more, thats a lot of heat also so it would be more of a problem how to cool it than how to power it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> But, your RAMs XMP profile is CL10 and you're using CL11? I'm not meaning you should OC your RAM but it's not running at the timings it should, it must. It's rated for that.
> 
> Anyway, as far as your problem with readings go, it's faulty readings 100%, just not sure if it's BIOS or software. And on a 630W PSU you should be good till 4.8GHz, at that point my PC uses 400W just for the CPU + system. 4.9 would actually require around 430 or more, thats a lot of heat also so it would be more of a problem how to cool it than how to power it.


he relaxed the timings because he was having boot issues...always dial in one overclock at a time because on this platform changing a lot of variables at the same time even if it works wont let you learn your board and chip...there is no substitute for doing something on your own people can guide you and hand hold and get you a stable overclock but you learn less....every chip/board combo will be slightly different but there are baselines that imo everyone should do a few of them mega outlined above...setting ram .025v higher and upping cpu/nb and nb up a bit...these things help when mildly overclocking to avoid frustrations of pumping volts and changing settings till youre blue in the face because you overlooked something as simple as cpu/nb being too low or once the imc is stressed stock voltage isnt enough for your rams stock clocks to be stable at stock voltage


----------



## tintreach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> But, your RAMs XMP profile is CL10 and you're using CL11? I'm not meaning you should OC your RAM but it's not running at the timings it should, it must. It's rated for that.


Those 11-11-11-28 timings you are seeing what you get when you set them all to "Auto", not the greatest but definitely should post. That screenshot was in a bunch of troubleshooting on those spikes. Tonight I will try and walk them up to SPD timings
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> And on a 630W PSU you should be good till 4.8GHz, at that point my PC uses 400W just for the CPU + system. 4.9 would actually require around 430 or more, thats a lot of heat also so it would be more of a problem how to cool it than how to power it.


My rough calculations tell me that I should be close to 475W at fulll load (Overclocking included) with 1 video card and that's including misc power consumption of mobo, fans, pump, usb devices and so forth on. That puts the PSU at 73% duty cycle at full load which I personally think is too much and will probably shorten the lifespan of the PSU. I generally find it good practice to build out with a 50 - 60% PSU duty cycle mindset. Less heat, less noise and the thing probably won't die from stress.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Hi man,
> 
> I have those max temp readings in HWINFO64 as well. It seems a bug in HWINFO64 itself but it can also be the EC sensor because its EC sensor related readings. Some times i get an eventID about this EC Sensor that it puts out more data than needed or something, i don't remember correctly. HWINFO64 also warns about this sensor because it can cause system performance issues and is not very accurate with readings.


Awesome, its a valid false positive then.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tintreach*
> 
> Those 11-11-11-28 timings you are seeing what you get when you set them all to "Auto", not the greatest but definitely should post. That screenshot was in a bunch of troubleshooting on those spikes. Tonight I will try and walk them up to SPD timings
> My rough calculations tell me that I should be close to 475W at fulll load (Overclocking included) with 1 video card and that's including misc power consumption of mobo, fans, pump, usb devices and so forth on. That puts the PSU at 73% duty cycle at full load which I personally think is too much and will probably shorten the lifespan of the PSU. I generally find it good practice to build out with a 50 - 60% PSU duty cycle mindset. Less heat, less noise and the thing probably won't die from stress.
> Awesome, its a valid false positive then.


yeah manual up at least the speed and first four stock timings and bump the voltage a smidge...auto can do funky things in most cases...

I tried doing just that with my 1200 watt...but then i began fighting for 5.0 and overclocking my 290s...so much for that 75 percent...ive tripped protections a few times pushing all three at once

On the false positives it happens often for me i almost crapped a few years ago when i seen a 100c on a core spike and as the max for cpu temp after going afk during stress thankfully it quickly subsided once logic came back to the brain and i realized it would've likely shutdown due to socket temps before that and reviewed the graph


----------



## Jericho941

A local guy on CL is listing what looks like a V1 sabertooth and an FX cpu for sale for $100. Is that a good risk? Are there any known issues with the v1? My main rig has a 970 pro/aura with an 8320e at 4.7gHz stable, so it's not something I need, or think would be an improvement, just curious if it would be worth looking at, perhaps for an undervolted rig. I have a few spare parts I could use with it including a fan shroud I 3d printed that fits the stock cooler that lets one use a 120mm fan instead of the stock one.


----------



## sli_shroom

anyone else running an m.2 ssd as the boot drive on a rev 3.0?

about 50% of the time when i restart it boots straight to the bios. have to power off and back on to get past the bios. directkey and fast boot are disabled...csm is set to auto. running the 0212 bios. happens with all clocks to default and the ram underclocked (2133 ram that wont boot of set above 1600)

thoughts?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> anyone else running an m.2 ssd as the boot drive on a rev 3.0?
> 
> about 50% of the time when i restart it boots straight to the bios. have to power off and back on to get past the bios. directkey and fast boot are disabled...csm is set to auto. running the 0212 bios. happens with all clocks to default and the ram underclocked (2133 ram that wont boot of set above 1600)
> 
> thoughts?


Yep, have the R3.0 with Samsung 950 Pro and boot times are amazing and strait to windows. I think its some setting in your UEFI but i don't know which one to be honest. Just go to BIOS and look for boot settings section, i am sure you can find the cause.


----------



## tintreach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> anyone else running an m.2 ssd as the boot drive on a rev 3.0?
> 
> about 50% of the time when i restart it boots straight to the bios. have to power off and back on to get past the bios. directkey and fast boot are disabled...csm is set to auto. running the 0212 bios. happens with all clocks to default and the ram underclocked (2133 ram that wont boot of set above 1600)
> 
> thoughts?


Not having that issue either.... what's the PN for for the m.2. Wouldn't hut to post some screens of your bios settings too.

As for your RAM, the r3.0 seem to be stupid picky about RAM.
Have you manually set the timings or you letting the bios try and figure that out?


----------



## miklkit

I have 2 R2s and have never seen spikes like that. True, the closer to the ragged edge it gets the spikier it gets but nothing like what is in those graphs.


----------



## mus1mus

Split second spikes are nothing to be afraid of. It can be a product of bad pooling by the software.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jericho941*
> 
> A local guy on CL is listing what looks like a V1 sabertooth and an FX cpu for sale for $100. Is that a good risk? Are there any known issues with the v1? My main rig has a 970 pro/aura with an 8320e at 4.7gHz stable, so it's not something I need, or think would be an improvement, just curious if it would be worth looking at, perhaps for an undervolted rig. I have a few spare parts I could use with it including a fan shroud I 3d printed that fits the stock cooler that lets one use a 120mm fan instead of the stock one.


you must be in CO !

i saw that, i was tempted but i am holding out till ryzen.

getting happy, cant wait to have the new crosshair and sabertooth.

have enough for both systems assuming 800-100 for the cpu and 500 ish for boards. plus cooling ...... i can not wait

if i am correct, come join us !


----------



## ang1dust

So i am contemplating this board, but i have a small dilmma...Revision 3 supports the 840T (the CPU i have) but the revision 2 doesnt (the one on ebay) Anyone have an 840T on a sabertooth they can confirm works?




Id really like to get this board but i dont want to be stuck with it because the CPU isnt supported =/

Edit: i looked through the list of the OP and i didnt see one.


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ang1dust*
> 
> So i am contemplating this board, but i have a small dilmma...Revision 3 supports the 840T (the CPU i have) but the revision 2 doesnt (the one on ebay) Anyone have an 840T on a sabertooth they can confirm works?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Id really like to get this board but i dont want to be stuck with it because the CPU isnt supported =/
> 
> Edit: i looked through the list of the OP and i didnt see one.


I think there mostly isn't anyone running that CPU because the board is overkill for that, this is what we use to go to 5GHz with 8 cores









I think you _should_ be fine to run that CPU on the board, but it's probably best to call/e-mail/contact Asus for an answer. As I've seen, almost every 990FX board supports it.

But, I'd like to ask you a question. Are you sure you want to buy the 2nd most expensive board for AMD right now for an older CPU, when Zen is comming, intel's getting new chips that are getting cheaper, there'll be an unlocked i3 as rumors say... Just want you to not make the same mistake we all at least once did


----------



## tashcz

By the way, by your screenshots, don't both of them support it?

EDIT: Missed the T.


----------



## ang1dust

So heres the story since you were wondering....I had an old rig, its an AM2+ (shows to support am3) i made the mistake of looking for the best AM3 chip i can find that would work in an AM2 socket with ddr2 at the lowest cost....35 bucks for a 840T cant beat that upgrade...and apparently the old c2/c3 45nm chips that are not supported by the motherboard (Biostar TA790GX3 AM2+) have modified bios available that add CPU to the microcode.

. Well i missed the idea that the stepping for the Zoska / thuban were E0 were different than the ones they were using in the modified bios's here

http://www.lejabeach.com/Biostar/TA790GX3A2+/

So after i put the chip in with modified bios the board posts but it shows unrecognized chip. I have been trying to modify the bios myself but to no avail have i been successful. I really wanted just a 35 dollar upgrade from a AMD Athlon x2 5200+ to a Phenom II 840T....quite a bump for 35 bucks but i cant seem to figure out the motherboard bios modding.....

So back the issue....i just want a motherboard that supports this new chip (sunk cost) and ill sell off my old motherboard for like 20 bucks and buy a good motherboard where its either just 50 bucks and i live with it ias it is, or i buy this one for like 100 bucks on ebay and unlock the cores and have a little fun. Of course i know ill need to buy the ram....its like 50 bucks for 8 gig 2600mhz etc....

So thats my story... lol

Oh yeah and for the screenshots, i have an 840T....which is hard to find motherboards that support that....not an 840 which is highly supported from what ive seen....the R3 supports 840T but the R2 supports the regular 840... i dont get it.


----------



## tashcz

I get you now. But know that not all chips have unlockable cores. And how about getting a DS3P, UD3P or some 970 boars instead? Really no need to spend that money on a sabertooth. Or you can do that and if it doesnt work, pop in a fx4xxx in it and OC the crap out of it. They shouldnt be expensive.


----------



## ang1dust

I looked at all those and almost none of them support the 840T...now you mention it, since this is such a pain chip i should relist it on ebay, if i get a bite and loose a few dollars ill repurchase a different chip. Anyway, remember my initial budget was 35 dollars. Lol. AND im not relly looking to overclock, but from an avid overclockers mind you know that doesnt pose true, ill get it try to unlock it (successful or not) then overclock it. I would feel so good if i could figure out how to mod this Bios successfully =/

My whole plan was keep it cheap then go buy the zen late next year when they begin to discount. Im stubborn but meh sometimes you gotta do what ya gotta do to get what you want. lol

EDIT: i just looked at about 4 of the motherboards from asus, only the R3 supports the 840T the others dont.....ALL 4 support the 960T... facepalm


----------



## Mega Man

tested to run and supported are not the same fyi.

just as amd does not support ram higher then 1866 and yet i run 2400 ....... just saying. whether it is a good purchase.... is a different story


----------



## ang1dust

I totally agree with you if i were purchasing it from an actual retailer, but ive already purchased a processor so i was trying to build around that since its a sunk cost =/ I think its best to sell off the proc and buy the one thats supported more.


----------



## ang1dust

I totally agree with you if i were purchasing it from an actual retailer, but ive already purchased a processor so i was trying to build around that since its a sunk cost =/ I think its best to sell off the proc and buy the one thats supported more.


----------



## tashcz

If I were you and the saber kitty is 100 dollars id go for it. If it doesnt work spend a bit more on an fx. You will not be dissapointed. You also said you were gonna buy ram, thats also about 50 bucks. If you spend that much, try and see what happens. Heck you can get a 6 core fx for less than 100 bucks brand new. You will be amazed till you get money for zen. Either that or dont spend anything and wait to see what happens with zen. Like Mega said, theres a big chance it will work - but also as mega said, is it worth it in dec 2016?


----------



## tintreach

Are all the case fan headers on the same bus for the R3?

From what I can tell after installing another one it looks like it is and using the same PWM signal for 1,2 and 3. I can get separate RPM reports back but any PWM change seems to effect all of them. I thought that was the whole point of the thermal radar stuff in AI Suite but the more I dig into it looks like AI Suite III for the 990FX chipset is pretty stripped down and now hugely less functional vs the Intel chipsets.


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tintreach*
> 
> Not having that issue either.... what's the PN for for the m.2. Wouldn't hut to post some screens of your bios settings too.
> 
> As for your RAM, the r3.0 seem to be stupid picky about RAM.
> Have you manually set the timings or you letting the bios try and figure that out?


So far i have tried letting the bios determi e the timings and forcing ths timings for everything from 1600 to 2133 and i get lockups in games (doom4 and hard reet are 2 of them) at anythi g above 1600. Maybe running 32gb is just too much for the mem controller at the higher speeds (probably why it isnt on the qvl). Often with anything above 1600 it fails to boot with an oc failure.

As for booting straight to the bios, the drive is an RVD400-M22280-128G. This happens regardless of the ram issue and i dont get any kind of warning about missing drive or oc settings. This is with nothing oc'ed. Have tried the common settings like fast boot, csm, os security, etc.

Thanks for burning a few brain cells thinking of suggestions

edit...pulling 2 sticks didnt help

another edit...looks like the restart issue is due to the ocz driver. doesnt happen with the native windows driver and others have reported the same issue (with other mobos). too bad the ocz driver is alot quicker


----------



## miklkit

Dunno. I can set the case fan profiles separately in the bios but only one fan shows up in HWINFO64. Never used AI Suite as it was buggy.


----------



## divipaul

Hello Forum Members!

Long time reader here, now a new member, and it's my 1st post. Hope I did it correctly?? So I built this machine a while ago, and I'm finally getting getting around to overclocking it. I'm currently at 4.8GHz @ 1.476v. I was hoping to finally break the 5GHz barrier with this one, but I just can't quite make it with the cooling I have. (Swiftech H240x setup on top exhausting case air out) Do any of you have any recommendations on replacement 140mm fans for the stock ones? Or am I likely not to see much improvement in temps with different fans? My max core temps at 4.8GHz are around 62C with a 23.8C ambient temp (75F). Any other suggestions? I don't want to spend much more on this one, with Ryzen on the horizon.

Also, while I have it stable? at 4.8GHz in IBT, it fails Prime95 blend after about an hour. (Usually on the 720k test, once on the 12k) It passes Prime95 small and large fft's, IBT AVX very high, RealBench, Aida64, HCI MemTest, both in windows and DOS. The only one I haven't tried yet is OCCT. I've include snips of my IBT test and bios screens for reference. Note that this is with my ram at 2400, and straight multiplier clocking. I haven't got into the FSB as of yet. I'm running Windows 7 Pro and my rig is in my sig! Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!!


----------



## miklkit

Hi!









I don't know why your temps are so high. You could try lowering the LLC as that will lower temps. Thermalright is making square TY-143 fans now and if those don't drop temps nothing will.


----------



## tintreach

The only thing I can think of to help drop the temps sown some without changing the loop is reverse your fan flow on the rad. That way you are pushing cooler air across the rad. Not sure if you can do it but see if another 120 will fit on the end so 1/2 will be push/pull. The other things are no brainers, make sure the fins aren't clogged and redo the thermal compound.

Hows the water looking, nothing gunky in it?


----------



## Vrbaa

Can anyone explain me this, please?









With my old love ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3, I have achieved 5GHz, boot into windows wiithout problems and made validation. But now, with Sabertooth R2.0 this is not possible and I need higher voltage to get 5GHz. I tried all possible combinations in Bios, but unsuccessfully.


----------



## tintreach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Dunno. I can set the case fan profiles separately in the bios but only one fan shows up in HWINFO64. Never used AI Suite as it was buggy.


What version of a Sabertooth is it? I just did some major RTFM'ing and poking in bios and I have confirmed all 3 of the chassis fan headers are on the same bus and can not be controlled individually which is sad if you indeed want to use a 40mm for VRM cooling or another custom configuration. It also means you probably have to use identical fans. Now I can uninstall AI Suite as it is pointless and will migrate everything to a NZXT Grid+


----------



## miklkit

I have an R2. While I can set the case fans individually but can only see one it means I have no way of confirming if they all are behaving as set.


----------



## tintreach

That's weird, the R3 is the opposite, I can see all the fans plugged in, where and what RPM but either in AI Suite or the bios I have just 1 control over them.

I also will add that I popped open the 40mm cover off to see what I was up against. It's a big empty hole!!! There is no place to mount the fan. That being said, I almost got a 40mm x 28mm fan in there. I think a 20 might fit


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tintreach*
> 
> That's weird, the R3 is the opposite, I can see all the fans plugged in, where and what RPM but either in AI Suite or the bios I have just 1 control over them.
> 
> I also will add that I popped open the 40mm cover off to see what I was up against. It's a big empty hole!!! There is no place to mount the fan. That being said, I almost got a 40mm x 28mm fan in there. I think a 20 might fit


My AI Suite shows the same. There is several fans plugged in but it only controls the one.

I have a 40mm fan in my under my VRM cover. If you look you mount the fan to the lid..


----------



## divipaul

Thanks for the tips, guys! I ordered some new thermal compound and as soon as it gets here, I'll redo it and report back. In the mean time, I'll try swapping the fans around to see if that may help lower temps?!? Do any of you run your fans that way? (Pulling air through the rad on top and exhausting it in the case?) What kind of temps should I expect from the H240x with my overclock? I thought that thing would keep it way cooler than it does! I also looked at the Thermalright TY-143 SQ fans as replacements. However, I can't seem to find them for sale here in the states. What are your thoughts on the Noctua NF-A14 IPPC-3000 on rads?

As far as my overclock goes, I suppose I should work on getting my temps down before I go raising any voltages to help stabilize it??? Anyway, thanks for the help! Overclocking sure is addictive! Happy Holidays!!


----------



## BinaryBummer

If you are talking about pulling the cool air inwards through the radiator into the case this usually don't work for most. You need to be aware of venting all that air in a proper airflow and not upset a flow. If you radiator is say, mounted on the front of the case then sure it would flow better allowing the other fans on the rear or top to remove the heat,


----------



## tintreach

I figured out why Asus probably didn't include the 40mm fan with the r3 boards..... It makes almost no impact on the VRM1 temps less than and inch away with about 6.5 CFM hitting it


----------



## tashcz

Maybe try it as exhaust? No way it doesn't make any difference.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tintreach*
> 
> I figured out why Asus probably didn't include the 40mm fan with the r3 boards..... It makes almost no impact on the VRM1 temps less than and inch away with about 6.5 CFM hitting it


Maybe so.. i have one 40mm in there but not happy at all with my VRM temps. O don't know if there is a way/s to really mod it to make better but I have been thinking on it.


----------



## tintreach

I've got a real quiet 120mm sitting on top of the GPU....does great but I thought I would see what I could do with the 40mm as it was intended.


----------



## tashcz

That fan place was the major thing I was looking for when I was deciding between the R3 and Aura, and for 100EUR more, I didn't want to get the R3 and went for Aura. If its really what you guys say, I'm at least satisfied, since on the Aura, I mounted mine just like it mounts on the R3, removed the IO shield, and it does the job great, I don't know the temps since I dont have a sensor there, but the IR thermometer shows 55-60C during IBT testing.


----------



## tintreach

well I woke up to triaging my build, for some reason I was only showing half of my ram. I powered it down and reseated the stuff. Powered it back up and when it booted to windows it did a hard shut down.... would not post after that. I suspect there is an issue with the RAM, I got it back u but the timings has to be super loose. Runing memtest86 now.

suggestions on something other than corsair vengeance 1866 for this R3?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tintreach*
> 
> well I woke up to triaging my build, for some reason I was only showing half of my ram. I powered it down and reseated the stuff. Powered it back up and when it booted to windows it did a hard shut down.... would not post after that. I suspect there is an issue with the RAM, I got it back u but the timings has to be super loose. Runing memtest86 now.
> 
> suggestions on something other than corsair vengeance 1866 for this R3?


anything gskill tends to run well....


----------



## miklkit

I agree with that. I bought my 4 sticks in January 2013 and they have been used in three different brands of motherboard usually at 1.6 volts. Still running fine.


----------



## sli_shroom

i am in the same boat...may have to switch to gskill


----------



## hurricane28

Agree. I use nothing but G.Skill because of compatibility. I uses Corsair, Kingston but nothing runs like G.SKill.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

hmm.. guess I got lucky... I've had no trouble with my corsair vengeance rams.... even @ 2400mhz... CL11 I just had to up the cpu/nb voltage to 1.2 ... I realize CL 11 isn't what most people want though... I had some slower ram that ran CL 9 but it was only 1600 mhz


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> hmm.. guess I got lucky... I've had no trouble with my corsair vengeance rams.... even @ 2400mhz... CL11 I just had to up the cpu/nb voltage to 1.2 ... I realize CL 11 isn't what most people want though... I had some slower ram that ran CL 9 but it was only 1600 mhz


I've had good luck with my Corsair Vengeance sticks, currently running 4x4GB sticks (PC28000) at 2133 with the CPU-NB @2400, the CPU itself @ 4.5GHz.



Corsair is good RAM too and can clock up well beyond their rated specs if tuned right but G.Skill is still tops in the world of RAM ATM.


----------



## sli_shroom

i currently have 2133 corsair installed and cant run it at anything over 1600 and have to leave the timings at the detected timings. if i force the rated timings or bump the mhz, it wont even boot.

well, it will boot at 1866 with the detected timings, but it locks the minute i start a game.

i am running 32gb, but i get the same results with only 16gb in


----------



## Kryton

If it's the machine in your sig it will not want to go to or even over 1866 more or less, a Thuban's IMC isn't as good as those with the AM3+ chips.
Normally with those 1600 is as good as it gets with a set of sticks running tighter timings, 1866 CAN be done with some luck and voltage, some can even top 2000 but won't be stable enough for DD use.

Set and leave it at 1600.


----------



## sli_shroom

sorry...havent updated my rig for the last "rebuild"

running a 9590 in an sabertooth rev 3 now. the memory is corsair 2133 32gb kit (CMY32GX3M4B2133C11)

Memory Size 32GB Kit (4 x 8GB)
SPD Latency 9-9-9-24
SPD Speed 1333MHz
SPD Voltage 1.5V
Speed Rating PC3-17066 (2133MHz)
Tested Latency 11-12-12-27
Tested Speed 2133MHz
Tested Voltage 1.5


----------



## Kryton

Ah - It's running hot on you, the CPU that is.

Drop that CPU voltage DOWN, it can run 4.7GHz with 1.45v's or less, AMD has the voltage for these spec'ed too high for what it really needs. I know my 9590 can run 4.7 at or even below 1.40v's and temps seen vs default votage used shows it.

You can raise your RAM voltage up to 1.60v's and won't hurt a thing, lower voltaged spec'ed RAM doesn't perform like sticks with a higher voltage spec normally do so you may have to run it at 1866 to keep the system happy. The chip's IMC with a Vishy isn't fond of higher RAM speeds though some chips like mine can tolerate it without issue.

I have a Sabo 3.0 board and one thing I noted right away is how picky they seem to be about RAM, mine won't run sticks that works fine in my CHV-Z's or my Sabo 2.0 board.


----------



## Dacheta

Hey all, just updated my MB this week with the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 and it is running my FX-9590 smoothly at 5GHz
I know the Zen is just around the corner but still wanted to squeeze a bit more from my system, because I can!









Just wondering what some of your experiences were OC'ing this CPU?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dacheta*
> 
> Hey all, just updated my MB this week with the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 and it is running my FX-9590 smoothly at 5GHz
> I know the Zen is just around the corner but still wanted to squeeze a bit more from my system, because I can!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wondering what some of your experiences were OC'ing this CPU?


I start with CPU VID and CPU/NB VID voltages and see how high it'll go. I managed 5117MHz 24 hr P95 stable with only 3 bumps of Vcore. (but with *many* days of testing DIGI settings)
Make sure to learn/play with DIGI II settings. This alone can make or break an OC.
FX is very voltage sensitive and easy to over volt. Over volt one area without noticing it and you'll spend a lot of time chasing your tail.

Watch your temps as the 220w CPUs top out at 57c 
and definitely add active cooling to your VRMs.

I just noticed your current cooling solution in your rig sig. You will want to upgrade to OC, or suffer being severely temp limited. A 120mm cooler is not going to work at all when OCd and very possibly not even at default. These do create a ton of heat at 5.0 and above.


----------



## skysoldier

Finally, I am the owner of a R 3.0 Sabertooth. Microcenter by me never stocked these, and finally got a bunch. It was pricey, and I know zen is right around the corner, but I'd been dying to get my hands on one to see what my 8350 can really do.

So far - decent - but I havent toyed much.

4.7 ghz using mult only was easy, and stable - Other boards I could never achieve this. I'll take it higher in the days to come.

Using 0212 bios and the suite III (probably uninstalling soon).

One thing I noticed is I CANNOT get my rear audio device working. My 5.1 system will not work on the board no matter what I try. The system itself is good to go - but nothing from the board. It works with bluetooth headphones or front panel input, but rear audio turns into a feedback sound. Anybody had this issue? Maybe a bad board or bad drivers? Even reinstalled windows and no results.


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> So far i have tried letting the bios determi e the timings and forcing ths timings for everything from 1600 to 2133 and i get lockups in games (doom4 and hard reet are 2 of them) at anythi g above 1600. Maybe running 32gb is just too much for the mem controller at the higher speeds (probably why it isnt on the qvl). Often with anything above 1600 it fails to boot with an oc failure.
> 
> As for booting straight to the bios, the drive is an RVD400-M22280-128G. This happens regardless of the ram issue and i dont get any kind of warning about missing drive or oc settings. This is with nothing oc'ed. Have tried the common settings like fast boot, csm, os security, etc.
> 
> Thanks for burning a few brain cells thinking of suggestions
> 
> edit...pulling 2 sticks didnt help
> 
> another edit...looks like the restart issue is due to the ocz driver. doesnt happen with the native windows driver and others have reported the same issue (with other mobos). too bad the ocz driver is alot quicker


well one issue fixed. switched to the 960 evo and it reboots fine now. i guess the ocz will make a decent drive for programs in a pcie adapter.

as a side note...the ocz drive is about half as fast in the pcie adapter vs the onboard m.2 slot


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> I start with CPU VID and CPU/NB VID voltages and see how high it'll go. I managed 5117MHz 24 hr P95 stable with only 3 bumps of Vcore. (but with *many* days of testing DIGI settings)
> Make sure to learn/play with DIGI II settings. This alone can make or break an OC.
> FX is very voltage sensitive and easy to over volt. Over volt one area without noticing it and you'll spend a lot of time chasing your tail.
> 
> Watch your temps as the 220w CPUs top out at 57c
> and definitely add active cooling to your VRMs.
> 
> I just noticed your current cooling solution in your rig sig. You will want to upgrade to OC, or suffer being severely temp limited. A 120mm cooler is not going to work at all when OCd and very possibly not even at default. These do create a ton of heat at 5.0 and above.


Just out of curiosity... I'm assuming the 57C max is more for stability and leakage control and not so much a "reach this and I die" temp. BTW, AOD didn't change the temp for it on my system... I was using it as part of a stability test routine.

oh and +1 to that active cooling need... I put a dedicated fan blowing up along the vrm heatsinks towards the exhaust.

with my custom loop temps don't get iffy until 5.1 ghz... it gets a bit hairy from there quickly deteriorating into "not going to happen" so anyone wanting one of these chips really needs custom cooling to OC... stock might get away with an H100i


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skysoldier*
> 
> Finally, I am the owner of a R 3.0 Sabertooth. Microcenter by me never stocked these, and finally got a bunch. It was pricey, and I know zen is right around the corner, but I'd been dying to get my hands on one to see what my 8350 can really do.
> 
> So far - decent - but I havent toyed much.
> 
> 4.7 ghz using mult only was easy, and stable - Other boards I could never achieve this. I'll take it higher in the days to come.
> 
> Using 0212 bios and the suite III (probably uninstalling soon).
> 
> One thing I noticed is I CANNOT get my rear audio device working. My 5.1 system will not work on the board no matter what I try. The system itself is good to go - but nothing from the board. It works with bluetooth headphones or front panel input, but rear audio turns into a feedback sound. Anybody had this issue? Maybe a bad board or bad drivers? Even reinstalled windows and no results.


Methinks the most common failure of the Sabertooth is its sounds system. I always use a dedicated sound card so can not personally verify this.

Anyhoo get yourself a Creative Sound Blaster Z and be happy. I tested it out once with the volume at 100% and it was literally painful with the headphones bouncing around on my head. With it set in the 50-60% range and the bass line calmed down a bit it is very nice.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skysoldier*
> 
> Finally, I am the owner of a R 3.0 Sabertooth. Microcenter by me never stocked these, and finally got a bunch. It was pricey, and I know zen is right around the corner, but I'd been dying to get my hands on one to see what my 8350 can really do.
> 
> So far - decent - but I havent toyed much.
> 
> 4.7 ghz using mult only was easy, and stable - Other boards I could never achieve this. I'll take it higher in the days to come.
> 
> Using 0212 bios and the suite III (probably uninstalling soon).
> 
> One thing I noticed is I CANNOT get my rear audio device working. My 5.1 system will not work on the board no matter what I try. The system itself is good to go - but nothing from the board. It works with bluetooth headphones or front panel input, but rear audio turns into a feedback sound. Anybody had this issue? Maybe a bad board or bad drivers? Even reinstalled windows and no results.


Congrats man, you just bought the best 990FX board out there.

I too had some difficulty with audio drivers sometimes and mostly it was the Realtek audio driver itself that solved it for me.
The on board sound is pretty good even compared to external/internal sound cards.

Here you can download some older and newer Realtek drivers to see if that fixes the problem: https://forums.laptopvideo2go.com/topic/24364-latest-realtek-audio-codecs/?page=7


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Methinks the most common failure of the Sabertooth is its sounds system. I always use a dedicated sound card so can not personally verify this.
> 
> Anyhoo get yourself a Creative Sound Blaster Z and be happy. I tested it out once with the volume at 100% and it was literally painful with the headphones bouncing around on my head. With it set in the 50-60% range and the bass line calmed down a bit it is very nice.


That sounds more like personal preference if you ask me. I have nothing to complain about with the on board sound card. Its an ALC 1150 chip which is pretty high end and only sound cards above 150 euro's will sound better. I tested this myself because i was looking for some better sound especially for my ATH-M50X headphone as its an high end studio monitor headphone. I tried Asus xonar range and some Creative ones all around 100 euro mark and they all sound the same if not worse. They were only a tad louder but not much.

Its not only the sound card that makes sound better, it also depends what you plug in to it that makes the difference. If you have crappy speakers/hearphones, the sound card simply doesn't make them high end.


----------



## miklkit

The last time I tried onboard sound was a few years ago when Creative had drivers issues and I was forced to use onboard sound. This was on a UD3 and maybe a GD80. I got used to it and thought it was ok until the driver issues got fixed. The sound is fuller with better highs and lows and also a lot less distortion because the overall volume is turned down so the system is not straining.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> The last time I tried onboard sound was a few years ago when Creative had drivers issues and I was forced to use onboard sound. This was on a UD3 and maybe a GD80. I got used to it and thought it was ok until the driver issues got fixed. The sound is fuller with better highs and lows and also a lot less distortion because the overall volume is turned down so the system is not straining.


Dunno why I had same issue with win 10 coming out. Lack of drivers from Creative and had to use built in on the X58A-UDR3 rev 1 and never liked it since I got used to using the creative MediaSource 5 Player for all my music.

I have the soundcard in this new system and works fine. I know I have another card or two in the closet.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> The last time I tried onboard sound was a few years ago when Creative had drivers issues and I was forced to use onboard sound. This was on a UD3 and maybe a GD80. I got used to it and thought it was ok until the driver issues got fixed. The sound is fuller with better highs and lows and also a lot less distortion because the overall volume is turned down so the system is not straining.
> 
> 
> 
> Dunno why I had same issue with win 10 coming out. Lack of drivers from Creative and had to use built in on the X58A-UDR3 rev 1 and never liked it since I got used to using the creative MediaSource 5 Player for all my music.
> 
> I have the soundcard in this new system and works fine. I know I have another card or two in the closet.
Click to expand...

That is the downside to many peripherals - you can have the perfect mouse, keyboard, printer, soundcard , game controller etc and an OS upgrade relegates it to paperweight status.... I HATE that.


----------



## miklkit

I don't think I had problems with Win X but that might have been because of the earlier problems. I had to search through the Creative library for a driver that was for a different sound card/OS that somehow worked, and that carried me until they finally fixed their driver issues.

I was looking into the Xonar sound cards and at that time those users were using fan made drivers! It was a lose/lose situation. I still have 2 old drivers archived, one is from 2008.


----------



## tashcz

Ive returned my St R2 because the sound died. Sometimes when you use lower pcie slots there can be a corruption somewhere on the mobo and it represents itself on the audio, they get bad addresses and just die.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> The last time I tried onboard sound was a few years ago when Creative had drivers issues and I was forced to use onboard sound. This was on a UD3 and maybe a GD80. I got used to it and thought it was ok until the driver issues got fixed. The sound is fuller with better highs and lows and also a lot less distortion because the overall volume is turned down so the system is not straining.


May i ask why you need such an high end sound card? I mean, there really is no need to upgrade your sound if you plug relative simple headphones or speakers in to it. Other than being louder it really makes no difference and you need a very high end headphone in order to tell the difference. I am little deaf on one ear and the on board sound of my Sabertooth is crispy clear and more than loud enough. It has 115 db SNR (signal to noise ratio) DAC with 8 channels and it has 7.1 surround.


----------



## miklkit

We will just have to agree to disagree. I will ALWAYS use a dedicated sound card. Always have going back to 1991.

Besides, I never had to RMA a motherboard because the sound went out and I do put my Fury in the bottom pci-e slot.


----------



## mirzet1976

And on my Sabertooth R2.0 was quickly died audio but for a reason I do not know why is gone, and I did not RMA motherboard.


----------



## tashcz

I was googleing my issue a lot, I thought I messed something up when it happened to me. I also emailed Asus regarding the issue, they stated it has happened in some cases that when you use the lower PCIE slot for the GPU, your sound chip gets a different *can't remember what* address and the mobo can't correct the issue. Only fix is returning to the factory.

So yeah, if your R2 dies when you plug in another card for xfire/sli or you want better cooling like I did (wanted to move it away as much as I could from the mobo HS), it's a common issue. Not sure if common is the right word but it happens.


----------



## miklkit

I changed out all 4 of my case fans yesterday and now in HWINFO64 all 4 case fans are showing up! It seems that some fans are not compatible with the bios, I'm guessing. I also found that the no.4 fan was hidden in HWINFO64 and had to activate it.


----------



## miklkit

I had a bit of a scare last night. I was browsing and all was well, when my puter crashed with some kind of driver irq error.

rebooted.

crash with a whea error

reboot

crash with a whea error and it happened so fast I couldn't get HWINFO64 running in time

reboot

crash with a whea error but this time I got HWINFO64 running in time and got a glimpse of the ram and NB HT voltages being very low, as in stock

reboot into bios and all looked normal I upped the ram volts one click and dropped the NB HT volts one click. All has been well since then but it is a concern.

What could cause this to happen? I flashed it to the latest 2901 bios, but that was months ago.


----------



## tintreach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I had a bit of a scare last night. I was browsing and all was well, when my puter crashed with some kind of driver irq error.
> 
> rebooted.
> 
> crash with a whea error
> 
> reboot
> 
> crash with a whea error and it happened so fast I couldn't get HWINFO64 running in time
> 
> reboot
> 
> crash with a whea error but this time I got HWINFO64 running in time and got a glimpse of the ram and NB HT voltages being very low, as in stock
> 
> reboot into bios and all looked normal I upped the ram volts one click and dropped the NB HT volts one click. All has been well since then but it is a concern.
> 
> What could cause this to happen? I flashed it to the latest 2901 bios, but that was months ago.


Start at the mini dump and see what it says unless it crashed so hard it bypassed the blue screen.

https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-US/library/windows/hardware/ff551063(v=vs.85).aspx


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I had a bit of a scare last night. I was browsing and all was well, when my puter crashed with some kind of driver irq error.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> rebooted.
> 
> crash with a whea error
> 
> reboot
> 
> crash with a whea error and it happened so fast I couldn't get HWINFO64 running in time
> 
> reboot
> 
> crash with a whea error but this time I got HWINFO64 running in time and got a glimpse of the ram and NB HT voltages being very low, as in stock
> 
> reboot into bios and all looked normal I upped the ram volts one click and dropped the NB HT volts one click. All has been well since then but it is a concern.
> 
> What could cause this to happen? I flashed it to the latest 2901 bios, but that was months ago.


its all that dwarf porn you been watching system cant cope


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I had a bit of a scare last night. I was browsing and all was well, when my puter crashed with some kind of driver irq error.
> 
> rebooted.
> 
> crash with a whea error
> 
> reboot
> 
> crash with a whea error and it happened so fast I couldn't get HWINFO64 running in time
> 
> reboot
> 
> crash with a whea error but this time I got HWINFO64 running in time and got a glimpse of the ram and NB HT voltages being very low, as in stock
> 
> reboot into bios and all looked normal I upped the ram volts one click and dropped the NB HT volts one click. All has been well since then but it is a concern.
> 
> What could cause this to happen? I flashed it to the latest 2901 bios, but that was months ago.


What stability program do you use to determinate "stability" ? I noticed that IBT AVX is rather poor to begin with. I am stable as a rock at 4.8 GHz with 2600 MHz CPU/NB but at 5 GHz i fail even at ridiculous volts...

Now today with very low ambient, i tried again for 5 GHz and no matter what, i cannot pass IBT AVX for the life of me... I decided to use OCCT instead and i am having no problems. I ran the program for 1 hour and everything was stable and temps were more than okay.

This could be the cause of your instability also. I had similar problems like you when testing for stability with IBT AVX, OCCT solved it for me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I had a bit of a scare last night. I was browsing and all was well, when my puter crashed with some kind of driver irq error.
> 
> rebooted.
> 
> crash with a whea error
> 
> reboot
> 
> crash with a whea error and it happened so fast I couldn't get HWINFO64 running in time
> 
> reboot
> 
> crash with a whea error but this time I got HWINFO64 running in time and got a glimpse of the ram and NB HT voltages being very low, as in stock
> 
> reboot into bios and all looked normal I upped the ram volts one click and dropped the NB HT volts one click. All has been well since then but it is a concern.
> 
> What could cause this to happen? I flashed it to the latest 2901 bios, but that was months ago.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> its all that dwarf porn you been watching system cant cope


Good to see you didn't loose your sense of humor







:thumb:


----------



## mus1mus

That doesn't seem like instability due to user intervention. So testing method won't matter. It could be a system glitch or a bios bug that happened out of the blue.


----------



## hurricane28

Yeah, maybe.

It can be all kinds of things. What i meant with IBT is that its a poor stability program. According to IBT you are stable for 20 runs at very high, after that i needed some work done in Adobe Premiere pro and after only 2 minutes it crashed on me... Did the test again with more volts, same result "stable" my point is, IBT is a good program to determine "semi-stability" but for the long run its useless. IT can be that in his case, the instability was found because he was doing something which IBT doesn't stress enough, that is why i use OCCT from now on because its such a better program for testing stability on the long run.

I also look in the Windows event viewer if i can spot anything odd, which in most cases it does when i get instability.


----------



## miklkit

I first saw WHEA errors almost 2 years ago when OCing and know that on this system they are memory related. This was confirmed when I saw the strange volts in HWINFO64 in ram and NB HT. Resetting them in bios seems to have fixed it although they were exactly where they were supposed to be in the bios.

Dwarf horses and sheep and and.................









Outside of a quick IBT AVX run every 6 months or so I no longer do any stress testing. The puter runs great and I see no reason mess with it.

I never liked OCCT and do not have it installed.

I haven't even been playing any games for 8 days or so. Online work only with the system basically idling all day every day. In fact I just discovered that the latest drivers have got my Fury all messed up and will be spending time working on that.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yeah, maybe.
> 
> It can be all kinds of things. What i meant with IBT is that its a poor stability program. According to IBT you are stable for 20 runs at very high, after that i needed some work done in Adobe Premiere pro and after only 2 minutes it crashed on me... Did the test again with more volts, same result "stable" my point is, IBT is a good program to determine "semi-stability" but for the long run its useless. IT can be that in his case, the instability was found because he was doing something which IBT doesn't stress enough, that is why i use OCCT from now on because its such a better program for testing stability on the long run.
> 
> I also look in the Windows event viewer if i can spot anything odd, which in most cases it does when i get instability.


Neither IBT nor OCCT will be the end of your tests for stability purposes. And I can point out why your IBT runs did not prove your system being stable. You need a hint?

OCCT failed me a lot too. Quick check, not enough stress on the RAM.

Need me say more?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Neither IBT nor OCCT will be the end of your tests for stability purposes. And I can point out why your IBT runs did not prove your system being stable. You need a hint?
> 
> OCCT failed me a lot too. Quick check, not enough stress on the RAM.
> 
> Need me say more?


Yes indeed, no stress test program will guarantee absolute stability. That is why i use several programs and everyday tasks which is why i "understand" my chips limits. Only using IBT AVX would be pointless as you can run in to problems short after being called "stable'" by that program. Undervolter explained this in the Vishera thread and he knows a lot more about these things than me.

I do know what you are after but that has nothing to do with it. That was a loooong way away and i learned along that way. We can debate until the cows come home but the fact is that IBT AVX is a rather poor stability test program which i encountered myself several times.

OCCT stresses the RAM a lot more than IBT AVX does and in most cases instability is RAM related... That is why i run in to problems when i was working in Premiere Pro which stresses the System like no other stress test program can do. I never had issues with OCCT, when i am stable in OCCT for 30 minutes or more, i am stable as a rock without problems in Premiere Pro or any other program for that matter.

I use my system for long periods of time and i run my 4.8 GHz profile for over a year now without any problem after i ran the OCCT test with AVX enabled.. I kept crashing in IBT AVX because it possibly interferes with other software or hardware on my system. There is no way that i am stable at 4.8 GHz decent volts and when i try 5 GHz i suddenly need 0.500 v or more to be stable, that's ridiculous. I did run OCCT for an hour today and used Aod ( AMD overdrive) stability test and i passed both of them without any problem.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yes indeed, no stress test program will guarantee absolute stability. That is why i use several programs and everyday tasks which is why i "understand" my chips limits. Only using IBT AVX would be pointless as you can run in to problems short after being called "stable'" by that program. Undervolter explained this in the Vishera thread and he knows a lot more about these things than me.
> 
> I do know what you are after but that has nothing to do with it. That was a loooong way away and i learned along that way. We can debate until the cows come home but the fact is that IBT AVX is a rather poor stability test program which i encountered myself several times.
> 
> OCCT stresses the RAM a lot more than IBT AVX does and in most cases instability is RAM related... That is why i run in to problems when i was working in Premiere Pro which stresses the System like no other stress test program can do. I never had issues with OCCT, when i am stable in OCCT for 30 minutes or more, i am stable as a rock without problems in Premiere Pro or any other program for that matter.
> 
> I use my system for long periods of time and i run my 4.8 GHz profile for over a year now without any problem after i ran the OCCT test with AVX enabled.. I kept crashing in IBT AVX because it possibly interferes with other software or hardware on my system. There is no way that i am stable at 4.8 GHz decent volts and when i try 5 GHz i suddenly need 0.500 v or more to be stable, that's ridiculous. I did run OCCT for an hour today and used Aod ( AMD overdrive) stability test and i passed both of them without any problem.


1. You test your system with IBT AVX using Very High without thinking you actually have 16GB of RAM.

Delve on that. You will understand.

2. You pushed your system too much during the time that you are using IBT AVX just for the sake of showing people, you are stable.

Think about it. A term has been coined after your claims for that matter.

3. If you want to test RAM, test it with a proper app. Not with anything that combines it with the CPU.

Hint 1: HCI Memtest is free to try.

Hint 2: Memory Load is different from Memory stress. You can load your memory to 99% using one app and still be fine. Yet, another app can slow down your system even when just using just 50% of your RAM. It depends on how the Data is being loaded, transferred, or used.

Stability is subjective. And Stress Testing apps are also products of people's subjective purposes. You need to be more open minded about that.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 1. You test your system with IBT AVX using Very High without thinking you actually have 16GB of RAM.
> 
> Delve on that. You will understand.
> 
> 2. You pushed your system too much during the time that you are using IBT AVX just for the sake of showing people, you are stable.
> 
> Think about it. A term has been coined after your claims for that matter.
> 
> 3. If you want to test RAM, test it with a proper app. Not with anything that combines it with the CPU.
> 
> Hint 1: HCI Memtest is free to try.
> 
> Hint 2: Memory Load is different from Memory stress. You can load your memory to 99% using one app and still be fine. Yet, another app can slow down your system even when just using just 50% of your RAM. It depends on how the Data is being loaded, transferred, or used.
> 
> Stability is subjective. And Stress Testing apps are also products of people's subjective purposes. You need to be more open minded about that.


1: No i also tested at maximum wish gave me the same result as i mentioned before..

2: What are you talking about? At least remember correctly what is been said in order to correct me because i clearly know why the term "hurricane stable" was mentioned more than a year ago... It had nothing to do with IBT whatsoever but was due to my testing methodology which i learned from because if i look back those were rather stupid claims and i learned from that and moved on, i suggest you to do the same instead of making a character out of someone.

3: Agree, but if you test RAM and CPU simultaneously, you find stability faster and as a matter a fact, i already know my RAM is stable and working perfectly and i have no desire to tinker with it because its a very delicate process which takes time i don't have because i have other more important things to do. That, and the extra oomph you get from RAM overclocking is negligible which is why i buy good quality stuff wish performs well so i don't have to tinker that much in the first place.

Hint 2: I agree, that is why i ran memtest from the beginning i bought this RAM kit in order to be sure that its stable and functioning right. I ran the test overnight without any problems whatsoever, so i already know my RAM is stable.


----------



## BinaryBummer

I got around to digging out a old HP CPU fan 92mm and I put in inside the back panel over my VRM area. and so far it has dropped it a few Celsius.

I went from 40C at idle area to 37c LAt I noticed I put the fan in pulling air so i turned it around to see.

BTW Now you can see the ugly side of the PC


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> I got around to digging out a old HP CPU fan 92mm and I put in inside the back panel over my VRM area. and so far it has dropped it a few Celsius.
> 
> I went from 40C at idle area to 37c LAt I noticed I put the fan in pulling air so i turned it around to see.
> 
> BTW Now you can see the ugly side of the PC


Did the same thing, but I took a stock 8370E cooler from the heatsink since it was slimmer, just used a tiny bit of super glue (english word for that?) on 2 dots on my backplate and while closed it lowers my socket temps by 3-4C or maybe even more under longer loads. While open, it can reduce it by a total of 10C probably. It's a good idea to keep it between the VRM and the socket area since that gets hottest. I'm covering just a bit of the VRM area but it does the job.

One thing I did differently, I set that fan to start at around 47C at about 20%, 53C at 40%, 60C at 70% and when it gets to 65C it maxes out. That way you don't even know there's a fan there







I was thinking of drilling a couple of holes on the side panel for increased airflow but meh... don't wanna do those things that can't be undone


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Did the same thing, but I took a stock 8370E cooler from the heatsink since it was slimmer, just used a tiny bit of super glue (english word for that?) on 2 dots on my backplate and while closed it lowers my socket temps by 3-4C or maybe even more under longer loads. While open, it can reduce it by a total of 10C probably. It's a good idea to keep it between the VRM and the socket area since that gets hottest. I'm covering just a bit of the VRM area but it does the job.
> 
> One thing I did differently, I set that fan to start at around 47C at about 20%, 53C at 40%, 60C at 70% and when it gets to 65C it maxes out. That way you don't even know there's a fan there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking of drilling a couple of holes on the side panel for increased airflow but meh... don't wanna do those things that can't be undone


No point in drilling a few holes, if you do the mod just cut a full window out and mesh it over. As far as my fan I just plugged it up to the fan power board and let it rip. I have it positioned where it is more VRM coverage but the outer fins are partially aerating the CPU's underside as well.
Definitely helps though I can hear that fan over everything else at idle.


----------



## NonXistant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Did the same thing, but I took a stock 8370E cooler from the heatsink since it was slimmer, just used a tiny bit of super glue (english word for that?) on 2 dots on my backplate and while closed it lowers my socket temps by 3-4C or maybe even more under longer loads. While open, it can reduce it by a total of 10C probably. It's a good idea to keep it between the VRM and the socket area since that gets hottest. I'm covering just a bit of the VRM area but it does the job.
> 
> One thing I did differently, I set that fan to start at around 47C at about 20%, 53C at 40%, 60C at 70% and when it gets to 65C it maxes out. That way you don't even know there's a fan there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking of drilling a couple of holes on the side panel for increased airflow but meh... don't wanna do those things that can't be undone




Did this a week ago. Just wanted to share it









EDIT: its a 80mm fan so doesnt look pretty but its next to a wall so idgaf, didn't have a spare 120mm. But the cutout is at those exact spacings and diameter. Fits perfectly on phantek enthoo pro


----------



## skysoldier

Anybody know of a good guide on 990fx sabertooth boards? specifically settings/tweaking in bios? I'm learning ASUS bios, and its been sort of easy so far - but It'd be helpful to have a good guide for it. I love the board - but having some better knowledge on a $200 investment couldnt hurt.

Also - using 0212 bios. Someone at microcenter mentioned there is a newer one the other day, but I cant find anything about it - Using the RV 3.0.


----------



## tashcz

Sky,

I've been on Aura and Sabertooth, had a glance at CHV once and thats it, but ST and Aura have almost identical BIOSes. What information do you need?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NonXistant*
> 
> 
> 
> Did this a week ago. Just wanted to share it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: its a 80mm fan so doesnt look pretty but its next to a wall so idgaf, didn't have a spare 120mm. But the cutout is at those exact spacings and diameter. Fits perfectly on phantek enthoo pro


It should be effective enough, I'm using a 60mm fan since lower diameter and higher RPM usually means more pressure. You should be on par with a 120. What's your experience with it, how much did the temps improve? And don't worry, just get some mesh and cover it







I wouldn't do it just because of the noise.


----------



## skysoldier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Sky,
> 
> I've been on Aura and Sabertooth, had a glance at CHV once and thats it, but ST and Aura have almost identical BIOSes. What information do you need?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NonXistant*
> 
> 
> 
> Did this a week ago. Just wanted to share it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: its a 80mm fan so doesnt look pretty but its next to a wall so idgaf, didn't have a spare 120mm. But the cutout is at those exact spacings and diameter. Fits perfectly on phantek enthoo pro
> 
> 
> 
> It should be effective enough, I'm using a 60mm fan since lower diameter and higher RPM usually means more pressure. You should be on par with a 120. What's your experience with it, how much did the temps improve? And don't worry, just get some mesh and cover it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't do it just because of the noise.
Click to expand...

I guess I asked for links because I'm not exactly sure. It's too much broad info I'm looking for that a few questions may not cut it. Lol. More like "Bios essentials when overclocking on the ST 3.0 board"

Also as far as bios v0212 goes - is that my newest?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skysoldier*
> 
> I guess I asked for links because I'm not exactly sure. It's too much broad info I'm looking for that a few questions may not cut it. Lol. More like "Bios essentials when overclocking on the ST 3.0 board"
> 
> Also as far as bios v0212 goes - is that my newest?


0212 is the latest BIOS as far as i know, its the newest on the Asus website so i think its the newest.


----------



## Korennya

Need some help sorting out PCI mode problems.

I upgraded my 990fx R2 to bios 2901 for nvme support. Bought a 960 evo 500gb and pcie to m2 adapter card. Was able to easily install windows onto the 960 and boots fine. But data transfer just blows. I wasn't expecting full performace due to pcie 2.0 vs 3.0. but still.

The problem seems to be in the link mode. Samsung magician is reporting that the drive is running at pcie 2.0 x2 mode!! I can't figure out how to get the full 4x out of it.

My 390 is in the first slot (only slot it will work in due to length) and it's reporting a full 2.0 x16 link with gpu-z.

I've initially tried the 960 in the bottom most slot PCie1_4. According to the user manual this slot shoudl provide 8x rate when using a single vga card. But in this slot i was getting only 1x. Moved it up to 1_3 slot (light beige) now i get 2x mode. Card won't fit into the black 1_2 slot due ot the vga card to test that slot out.

So what gives? THis board is supposed to be able to run 2 vga cards at full 16x links each and i'm restricted to 16x and 2x?

Currently getting a sub-par 800 mb/s read/write on the 960 evo. My older 850 evo with rapid mode gets 3.2g (inflated i know due to memory usage) but it still made it faster.

So thoughts on how to get my link rate up to the full 4x?

Disable other onboard stuff like esata? and asmedia sata ports? unused usb ports? will that help?


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Korennya*
> 
> Need some help sorting out PCI mode problems.
> 
> I upgraded my 990fx R2 to bios 2901 for nvme support. Bought a 960 evo 500gb and pcie to m2 adapter card. Was able to easily install windows onto the 960 and boots fine. But data transfer just blows. I wasn't expecting full performace due to pcie 2.0 vs 3.0. but still.
> 
> The problem seems to be in the link mode. Samsung magician is reporting that the drive is running at pcie 2.0 x2 mode!! I can't figure out how to get the full 4x out of it.
> 
> My 390 is in the first slot (only slot it will work in due to length) and it's reporting a full 2.0 x16 link with gpu-z.
> 
> I've initially tried the 960 in the bottom most slot PCie1_4. According to the user manual this slot shoudl provide 8x rate when using a single vga card. But in this slot i was getting only 1x. Moved it up to 1_3 slot (light beige) now i get 2x mode. Card won't fit into the black 1_2 slot due ot the vga card to test that slot out.
> 
> So what gives? THis board is supposed to be able to run 2 vga cards at full 16x links each and i'm restricted to 16x and 2x?
> 
> Currently getting a sub-par 800 mb/s read/write on the 960 evo. My older 850 evo with rapid mode gets 3.2g (inflated i know due to memory usage) but it still made it faster.
> 
> So thoughts on how to get my link rate up to the full 4x?
> 
> Disable other onboard stuff like esata? and asmedia sata ports? unused usb ports? will that help?


In the Manual it says that if you are using the m.2 it can effect the Bandwidth on the #2 PCIe slot I think it was on page 32 in the manual.


----------



## Korennya

I don't have a m.2 slot. I'm using an R2 not an R3 version of sabertooth. I'm not getting full link speed on any of the slots other than the slot the gpu is in


----------



## Mega Man

Are you sure you're adapter is x4 and not x2?


----------



## Korennya

Box definitely says x4. Silverstone m.2 to pci-e x4 adapter card. Part number sst-ecm21

I may have to try a different adapter card and see if that's the issue. Asus has their hyper mini adapter card. Seems like it's been phased out.. It's harder to find at a reasonable price.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Korennya*
> 
> Box definitely says x4. Silverstone m.2 to pci-e x4 adapter card. Part number sst-ecm21
> 
> I may have to try a different adapter card and see if that's the issue. Asus has their hyper mini adapter card. Seems like it's been phased out.. It's harder to find at a reasonable price.


But your sure you have checked the BIOS to see if there is a x4 setting anywhere. I am not familiar with the earlier mobos.


----------



## Korennya

Sadly there nothing regarding pcie. Bios 2901 introduced nvme configuration. But there's nothing in there. It just displaces bus info on the card location. Nothing else. I did try disabling extra ports to try and free up more lanes by it had no effect. Tried a cmos reset. No help. I even tried squeezing it in to the blocked port due to my gpu. Still just 2x. I reinstalled my 850 evo and ran a bench on both with out magician interfering. Crystal disk hit me @800mb on the 960 and 500 on the 850.

The sata spec of 3gb. Is that in byte or bit?


----------



## Korennya

I found an Asus adapter for $15 buck so I'll try it. I don't think it's the 960 itself right? I'm under the impression the adapter card would be setting the link interface not the SSD drive correct? Unfortunately I have no way to test the 960. No other rigs that have an m.2 port or nvme protocols to put it in.

My other machine is an a88xm-e board. Would the card/drive work in that without nvme support in the bios? I know it won't be bootable. But maybe windows will have access after installing the Samsung nvme driver?


----------



## NonXistant

What pcie port did you plug it in? Shouldn't matter but try a different pcie? And how many gpu's you have?

What i mean is try to put the gpu in the third slot and m.2 in the first. Check if that helps. Otherwise its definitely bios.

And its bit not byte


----------



## Mega Man

Not true

There have been several instances of false advertising about x4 x2.

I highly doubt it is bios. Or every one would be having probs eight their pcie it is just pcie ......


----------



## Korennya

I put the SSD in every open slot. Always 2x. Except the bottom most slot which was 1x. That fits into the table in the manual if you just look at total pcie cards and not which I'd gpu or not.

I can't move gpu card down due to case limitations. It's too long. I had to remove the upper hdd cage to install it. Lower cage is riveted in.

Given that it's bit not byte. It would seem I'm getting full 2x bandwidth from the 960. It hits the same sealing on every test so I'm assuming there's nothing wrong with the SSD and it's an issue between the adapter and the mb assigning the correct amount of lanes.

Hoping another adapter will solve this. Otherwise the pcie will be a marginal change. Perhaps even worse since rapid mode doesn't seem to be supported on non-sata drives.


----------



## Korennya

Sissoft sandra reports a read speed of 800 MB/s for the 960 evo and 520 MB/s for the sata 850 evo. I've been reading that a single 2.0 pcie link should have a maximum throughput of 250 MB/s right? At a 4x link that should be 1000 MB/s and i'm getting 800MB/s.. so is that the difference between theoritcal and practical transfer rates?

A 2x mode would only net a theortical max of 500MB/s which i've already exceeded. Yet multiple programs are are showing the link mode as 2x. not 4x. So am I looking at a bios reporting error or am I still sub-par on how this drive should be performing?

Drive is rated for 3.2GB/s on a 3.0 pcie. I was expecting to see half that on a 2.0 pcie so @1.6GB/s. That would be 2x what i'm getting, and seem to support only a 2x lane usage?]

Somewhere the numbers aren't adding up.


----------



## Korennya

so i put the drive/card into my a88xm board to see what would happen. it doesnt have bios support for nvme. win 10n found it and i installed samsung drivers. drive repoerted only a 2x link in this board too. when benched it produced an abysmal 180 MB/S. even with a better 2x pcie 3.0 link. my guess is the card is defective and only allowing a 2x link. Could the drive itself cause only a 2x link error?


----------



## Mega Man

Yes it could, that does not mean it is


----------



## BinaryBummer

Does anyone else get the sensor error (cannot monitor) on the Sabertooth 3.0? If I say Do Not Monitor then I don't have any VRM temps showing.


----------



## NonXistant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> Does anyone else get the sensor error (cannot monitor) on the Sabertooth 3.0? If I say Do Not Monitor then I don't have any VRM temps showing.


If you are refering to the HWinfo, you have to enable EC sensor


----------



## skysoldier

i just realized that the whole time ive been using my 3.0 with an fx-8350, my SB pwr led is on and orange. i figured this was normal - but now im wondering (...paranoia?) if it is not. is that an indicator that something is off power wise? or that..it in fact..HAS power? ...lol


----------



## NonXistant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skysoldier*
> 
> i just realized that the whole time ive been using my 3.0 with an fx-8350, my SB pwr led is on and orange. i figured this was normal - but now im wondering (...paranoia?) if it is not. is that an indicator that something is off power wise? or that..it in fact..HAS power? ...lol


It's normal








I can even be on when the system is powered off as in my case >_>


----------



## skysoldier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NonXistant*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skysoldier*
> 
> i just realized that the whole time ive been using my 3.0 with an fx-8350, my SB pwr led is on and orange. i figured this was normal - but now im wondering (...paranoia?) if it is not. is that an indicator that something is off power wise? or that..it in fact..HAS power? ...lol
> 
> 
> 
> It's normal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can even be on when the system is powered off as in my case >_>
Click to expand...

yeah - i couldnt find anything in the manual specifying. since the other LEDS kick on only if there is a problem I decided I should investigate. Plus, I'm having a hell of a time getting past 4.7ghz. It's 100% stable at 200.00x23.5, past that I usually get crashes. Temps are good - however voltages seem weird.

Any general suggestions for the digi+ panel? Using a h100iv2 and load is about 40c. I do have active cooling on the socket and VRMs


----------



## NonXistant

i can attach my settings, *make sure you see them as guidelines and not as actuall usable settings.*

I'll post the 4.8 stable and the 5ghz stable.


----------



## NonXistant

4.8


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









5ghz (I dont NOT recommend putting that ammout of voltage on it though)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Also, i recommend watching this vid Overclock AMD, helped me a little with settings etc. Also Hurricane28 pointed me in the right direction.


----------



## skysoldier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NonXistant*
> 
> 4.8
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5ghz (I dont NOT recommend putting that ammout of voltage on it though)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, i recommend watching this vid Overclock AMD, helped me a little with settings etc. Also Hurricane28 pointed me in the right direction.


appreciate this! gives me a baseline to compare my settings to - will post soon. i got a voltage hungry chip apparently - my 8350 NEEDS at least 1.47-1.48 minimum to run at 4.7ghz. Temps are fine, but the voltage is insane.


----------



## miklkit

Your 8350 is way better than mine. It needs 1.524v for 4.8 ghz. My good 8370 is about the same as your 8350 as when I first got it to 4.8 it needed 1.488v but after some tuning it got down to 1.476v.


----------



## hurricane28

Yesterday i mu CPU died... RIP good old 8350, you will be missed...
Now i need to buy new one but which one should i buy? I mean, i want a good clocker and i heard some good things about the e series chips and that they binned better but is it really matter that much? Is there a difference between the newer 8350 and the 8370e in overclocking?


----------



## skysoldier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Your 8350 is way better than mine. It needs 1.524v for 4.8 ghz. My good 8370 is about the same as your 8350 as when I first got it to 4.8 it needed 1.488v but after some tuning it got down to 1.476v.


I'm starting to be less afraid of the 1.5v line and that its ok to cross it within reason. At least with 8350s. They are steamy, godless, power sucking machines. Currently @ 

valid.x86.fr/cij7x6

Not bad - No direct vrm cooling, but a fan hitting the rear of the socket. The s340 elite is a pretty case, but tough to build on!


----------



## skysoldier

http://valid.x86.fr/mzgile

^ a little better with tweaking


----------



## NonXistant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skysoldier*
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/mzgile
> 
> ^ a little better with tweaking


Nice thats its valid. But is it stable? Tbh i doubt it with that voltage shown on the validation


----------



## NonXistant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yesterday i mu CPU died... RIP good old 8350, you will be missed...
> Now i need to buy new one but which one should i buy? I mean, i want a good clocker and i heard some good things about the e series chips and that they binned better but is it really matter that much? Is there a difference between the newer 8350 and the 8370e in overclocking?


Poor pc


----------



## miklkit

It's all about cooling them. If you can cool it, you can clock it. I watch temperatures more than voltages.

@hurricane28 Eh? How?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> It's all about cooling them. If you can cool it, you can clock it. I watch temperatures more than voltages.
> 
> @hurricane28 Eh? How?


i try not to break 1.55 on the core for everyday but ive tried at 1.7 before...temps wise i like to keep her under 70 when im stressing to the max but im not a habitual temp watcher like i used to be....takes away from the experience if im always worried about temps...i check once a week while doing my normal gaming sessions


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> It's all about cooling them. If you can cool it, you can clock it. I watch temperatures more than voltages.
> 
> @hurricane28 Eh? How?


i dunno man, i tried 5 GHz and it didnt exceed 1.55v and temps were fine but i wasnt stable so i changed back to 4.8 setting and all of a sudden it just shuts off.. tried everything but nothing can bring back an dead CPU unfortunately.. CPU LED is on during post which indicates that there is something wrong with the CPU.I ordered a new one which should arrive within a few hours. I will pray to the silicon gods for a good clocker..


----------



## skysoldier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NonXistant*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skysoldier*
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/mzgile
> 
> ^ a little better with tweaking
> 
> 
> 
> Nice thats its valid. But is it stable? Tbh i doubt it with that voltage shown on the validation
Click to expand...

So far - yes


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> i dunno man, i tried 5 GHz and it didnt exceed 1.55v and temps were fine but i wasnt stable so i changed back to 4.8 setting and all of a sudden it just shuts off.. tried everything but nothing can bring back an dead CPU unfortunately.. CPU LED is on during post which indicates that there is something wrong with the CPU.I ordered a new one which should arrive within a few hours. I will pray to the silicon gods for a good clocker..


Did you try a different CPU to rule out the mobo?
I've had two mobos lately displaying the dreaded CPU LED and both where mobo being bad.
One of them was my server (Bruce in rig sig) and it puked after restarting from a windows update. Red cpu led, same as you described unless I missed something.
Before anyone asks, everything was set on default and has never been OC'd.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skysoldier*
> 
> So far - yes


Fair enough. But don't go wary if people asks for proof.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Did you try a different CPU to rule out the mobo?
> I've had two mobos lately displaying the dreaded CPU LED and both where mobo being bad.
> One of them was my server (Bruce in rig sig) and it puked after restarting from a windows update. Red cpu led, same as you described unless I missed something.
> Before anyone asks, everything was set on default and has never been OC'd.


BIOS (bad or corrupted) can also do this.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Did you try a different CPU to rule out the mobo?
> I've had two mobos lately displaying the dreaded CPU LED and both where mobo being bad.
> One of them was my server (Bruce in rig sig) and it puked after restarting from a windows update. Red cpu led, same as you described unless I missed something.
> Before anyone asks, everything was set on default and has never been OC'd.


Yes, i have a new kne installed and its the same thing. I really think its the psu that died on me to be honest. This is the third psu that wend bad on me within 5 years and they all are seasonic based units.. a friend comes over to test his psu on my system to rule out the psu. if it still doesnt work it must be the mobo or ram.

i called my retIl store and they said that its possible that it is the mobo. me on the otherhand finds it a bit strange because nothing extreme happened.. but you never know.

thmx for the inout though.

i am curious as to how well this new CPU is though, its batch number 1636PGS so its a new one.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Fair enough. But don't go wary if people asks for proof.
> BIOS (bad or corrupted) can also do this.


I start to think you have a point..because all of a sudden my EC sensor went nuts before shutdown.. how can i flash new bios on my board when its not starting? download new bios and install it on usb dvice and flash it? but than again, how do i install it on a flash drive when i have no pc lol.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I start to think you have a point..because all of a sudden my EC sensor went nuts before shutdown.. how can i flash new bios on my board when its not starting? download new bios and install it on usb dvice and flash it? but than again, how do i install it on a flash drive when i have no pc lol.


Phone via OTG.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Phone via OTG.


Thnx it worked.

The CPU was indeed dead an now with the new CPU it works again finally...

Now, i tested again to hit 5 GHz and it was a no go...

This is the batch number:


----------



## NonXistant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Thnx it worked.
> 
> The CPU was indeed dead an now with the new CPU it works again finally...
> 
> Now, i tested again to hit 5 GHz and it was a no go...
> 
> This is the batch number:


Sitting next to him. He overvolted it again xD


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NonXistant*
> 
> Sitting next to him. He overvolted it again xD


Coming from someone who puts 1.585 vcore in to his CPU


----------



## mus1mus

lol. You can't OC without OV anyway!

How's that new one btw?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> lol. You can't OC without OV anyway!
> 
> How's that new one btw?


sure you can just not very far lol


----------



## Korennya

Just an update. installed the 960 evo into an asus adapter and it now works at 4x like its supposed to. data transfer rates doubled over previous adapter. still slower than its spec due to pcie 2.0. but it benches 3x faster than my 850v evo drive in the same machine. so seems like a worthwhile upgrade even on the older pcie 2.0 boards.

Having examined the bad adapter, itr looks like crappy soldiering job on two f the surface mount resistors on the board. seems like there was excess soldier bridging two resistors. glad it didnt **** up my board or drive!


----------



## Korennya

alrighty. new 280 rad in and trying oc again on my fx6300. am i just too afraid to burn this old chip up or what? passed intel burn 10 reps ( i know not much) at 4.6ghz @1.48125 vcore. worried about going higher on the vcore. temps are fantastic. 35c liquid/36c die and 45c socket. oddly, it was hotter at [email protected]


----------



## Korennya




----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Korennya*


Need to IBT on the maximum level


----------



## Korennya

whats IBT?


----------



## mirzet1976

IBT = IntelBurnTest, you need to run on Very High or Maximum Level.

Custom run 14GB of RAM , 5GHz - 1.548V


----------



## Korennya

i couldn't get 4.7 @1.5vcore to pass ibt on standard


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mirzet1976*
> 
> IBT = IntelBurnTest, you need to run on Very High or Maximum Level.
> 
> Custom run 14GB of RAM , 5GHz - 1.548V


Its not 24/7 stable... look at the errors you get in HWINFO64. If you don't believe HWINFO, than go to event vieuwer/windows logs/system and you'll see a lot of errors due to cache instability.

I had the same thing when i wasn't stable in IBT.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Guys After 5 years no over clock. running stock.. my sabertooth Blew upp FK!!!! Im soo pissed.... Uhhhhhh It sounded like Two Gunshots... and I haven't gamed in a while.Was watching BBC topgear this morning when ut happend and the pc turned off..


----------



## Korennya

Crap. Mines getting close to that old and I do oc


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> Guys After 5 years no over clock. running stock.. my sabertooth Blew upp FK!!!! Im soo pissed.... Uhhhhhh It sounded like Two Gunshots... and I haven't gamed in a while.Was watching BBC topgear this morning when ut happend and the pc turned off..


Holy moly dude, sorry to hear..

Its the first Sabertooth board that i heard of that died like this.. others run their boards just fine over 5 years. Where you getting high temps or what?


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

this certificate is such a Hype.. sigh the caps shot off like bullets n dented the gypsum ceiling..... Guys whats a good future proof mother board?


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Holy moly dude, sorry to hear..
> 
> Its the first Sabertooth board that i heard of that died like this.. others run their boards just fine over 5 years. Where you getting high temps or what?


Was using the rig early in the morning.. just youtube watching videos.. temps were 35-45 deg.. I Honestly hope EVERYONE sees this.. even Asus.. I wish they gave me a new board







this board never got abused sigh..(T-T)..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> Guys After 5 years no over clock. running stock.. my sabertooth Blew upp FK!!!! Im soo pissed.... Uhhhhhh It sounded like Two Gunshots... and I haven't gamed in a while.Was watching BBC topgear this morning when ut happend and the pc turned off..


Of course it sounded like gunshots, the caps exploded. It sucks it happened and I am sorry to hear it. However stuff fails over time the pic quality is low but it looks like 2-3 caps are still bulging
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Korennya*
> 
> Crap. Mines getting close to that old and I do oc


Keep an eye on old hardware. Check for bulging capacitors, leaking caps ect. It can still happen with no signs
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> this certificate is such a Hype.. sigh the caps shot off like bullets n dented the gypsum ceiling..... Guys whats a good future proof mother board?


While it is hyped (called advertisement) it was certified by that company. That said, stuff fails and it did last longer then the warranty period. Maybe asus knows something? At 5 years old I would replace it anyway (at least not use it as daily driver unless I had a backup. )

PCs will fail over time. It is just a mayer of when
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Holy moly dude, sorry to hear..
> 
> Its the first Sabertooth board that i heard of that died like this.. others run their boards just fine over 5 years. Where you getting high temps or what?
> 
> 
> 
> Was using the rig early in the morning.. just youtube watching videos.. temps were 35-45 deg.. I Honestly hope EVERYONE sees this.. even Asus.. I wish they gave me a new board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this board never got abused sigh..(T-T)..
Click to expand...

And? It lasted longer then the warranty. It died, everything does. Why do you deserve a free motherboard?


----------



## Korennya

Soldier new caps in ?I had three explode on my ola a8v board (also Asus). I ordered some replacements for it, soldered them in and ran it OC'd for another few years ? Not a task for everyone, but what have you got to loose now? Other than $2 for new caps.


----------



## ltpdttcdft

Ouch! What cooler were you using?


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ltpdttcdft*
> 
> Ouch! What cooler were you using?


the cooler is a monster NOCTUA NHD15 so no over heating problems.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Korennya*
> 
> Soldier new caps in ?I had three explode on my ola a8v board (also Asus). I ordered some replacements for it, soldered them in and ran it OC'd for another few years ? Not a task for everyone, but what have you got to loose now? Other than $2 for new caps.


.Im great at soldering I dooa few repairs on aftremarket engine management's. So it chould be easy. probkem is where to find the capacitors..


----------



## Korennya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> .Im great at soldering I dooa few repairs on aftremarket engine management's. So it chould be easy. probkem is where to find the capacitors..


I think I bought mine from mouser electronics. You could also try digikey. The capacitance should be marked on the caps somewhere.


----------



## miklkit

The caps blew off and dented the ceiling? That means it was laying down flat and was not in a case. Hmmm.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> The caps blew off and dented the ceiling? That means it was laying down flat and was not in a case. Hmmm.


Sir my computer case is a COOLERMASTER HAF XB EVO. the mother board mounts flat.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> Sir my computer case is a COOLERMASTER HAF XB EVO. the mother board mounts flat.


 my HD6870 2GB Also gave me 5 yrs


----------



## ltpdttcdft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ltpdttcdft*
> 
> Ouch! What cooler were you using?
> 
> 
> 
> the cooler is a monster NOCTUA NHD15 so no over heating problems.
Click to expand...

The middle fan sits pretty low which should help with cooling the VRM area, though maybe if it runs too slow (due to low CPU temps) the caps might not get enough airflow? (just brainstorming thoughts)

Was there any damage to the D15?


----------



## Mega Man

FYI capacitors seldom need cooling


----------



## second2

I believe he is refering to the possibility of the hot air from the vrm get trapped over the caps.
I have the d15 too so I cant try to see the caps rigth now.But I believe someine can.
Anyway I believe you should try to reach Asus, even if you dont get the mb fixed it may prevent newer boards from having this problem in case it was design problem


----------



## mus1mus

It's not a design problem. No matter how well you make an electronic device/component, time on itself can cause it to fail. It's a sad fact.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> It's not a design problem. No matter how well you make an electronic device/component, time on itself can cause it to fail. It's a sad fact.


This is true - I bought a pair of NF2 Infinity boards last year with swollen caps and that was due to time itself, not from use.
These had been stored somewhere for a very long time and with the passage of time the caps began to swell just from sitting, nothing else. I also have a Soyo that did the same thing and I bought this board new back in the day, wasn't used too much and when put away it was fine but as time passed it began to show the same swollen caps doing nothing more than sitting around unused.

Heat does affect the useable life of a cap but there is no real reason to worry about it since they will probrably last as long as you'd probrably use the board before upgrading anyway.

You can expect caps to go out, they tend to with age and this to me isn't an unexpected event, esp if the board has been used all along. Replace it if you can provided the board wasn't killed by it and move on or just get another board.


----------



## diggiddi

Hey all having issue with my system can't get into bios. How do I flash Bios using USB and the button on the side of the board?
pictures of error message below


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Have you tried a simple usb keyboard?

My Sabertooth refused almost everytime to let me go to the BIOS using a Ozone StrikeBattle keyboard. Seems some "advanced keyboards" wont make it quickly enough to be ready to function in order to enter the BIOS at post.


----------



## Mega Man

Put file on use, rename it (you will have to check the manual to find out what) put it in correct usb, press button

However i would unplug all usb and try to boot then


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diggiddi*
> 
> Hey all having issue with my system can't get into bios. How do I flash Bios using USB and the button on the side of the board?
> pictures of error message below


Its in your user manual book of the board. I had to do it couple of weeks a go and there was an tutorial on the Internet but now i can't find it anymore unfortunately, its like they deleted it from the Internet lol.

Good luck.


----------



## Kryton

I've seen the USB overvolt error before and it was the USB controller going bad - Had to RMA that board since I coudn't do anything about it on my part.
I do hope if it comes down to it the board is still under warranty BUT won't hurt to try a BIOS flash first if you can.

Here's something I found on the Asus site, you can try it and there are also some links that may be of further use.
https://www.asus.com/us/support/FAQ/1008280/

Also found your missing video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADcdnwMjd_I

Hope this helps.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Put file on use, rename it (you will have to check the manual to find out what) put it in correct usb, press button
> 
> However i would unplug all usb and try to boot then


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diggiddi*
> 
> Hey all having issue with my system can't get into bios. How do I flash Bios using USB and the button on the side of the board?
> pictures of error message below


Put a FAT32 USB Stick on the White or Green (double check. it's neither Blue or Black) USB Port.
Download the BIOS you want to use.
Rename it to *ST990R20.CAP*
Press the BIOS Flashback Button for about 10 second while the board is in Off State (powered by the PSU but Power button is not pressed).
Wait until the button flashes On and Off before releasing. As soon as the Button LED is Off, turn off the PSU. Reboot after 20 Secs.

It's also a good practice to remove the CMOS Battery for about 20 secs and the System on disconnected from the mains power before doing a BIOS Flashback.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/414973/Asus-Sabertooth-990fx-R2-0.html?page=64


----------



## diggiddi

Thank you all will try and let you know how it went
+Repped up


----------



## diggiddi

Mus your method worked







now I have to figurer out what happened to my OSes they seem to have been scrambled


----------



## ajcroteau928

Hey everybody,

Got my new ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R3.0 setup last Friday. First of all, I didn't like the previous motherboard ASRock 990FX Extreme9 motherboard. I'd wanted a Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 but the one I got from Microcenter, which was the last one, had a bent pin on the USB3.0 header socket. So with my computer now in pieces on my kitchen table, I went back and reluctantly bought the Extreme9. But, recently when I saw the R3.0 Sabertooth, I felt there was enough on the motherboard to justify the upgrade. IE, m.2 socket, rgb lighting, properly displaying the speed of my processor (4715Mhz instead of 4689Mhz), etc. Call me crazy but if I buy a 4700Mhz Processor, CPU-Z or HwInfo should both display at least 4700Mhz. (This bugs the f*&^ out of me with the ASRock boards). Besides, ASUS just makes a better motherboard period.

I had a couple of issues getting it configured properly. First, I'm running an FX9590 and seeing as there is very little headroom for OC, I decided I'd keep it @ stock speeds. So, I went into AI Tweaker and noticed that the RAM was using the JEDEC config of 1333Mhz for the memory. My memory is G.Skill rated at 1866Mhz however I couldn't pick the XMP option for the RAM. I did however noticed that I switch from Auto to D.O.C.P. I then got the option to pick the XMP Profile. So while installing windows, I started getting BSOD for CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT exceptions. So after some googling, it could be one of two things, either heat or memory. I'm running a Corsair H110 280mm AIO which has been running fine and keeping things cool with my previous 990FX motherboard and my FX9590 chip. Plus, the ram i was using was also from the previous motherboard. So, I guessed it might have something to do with the D.O.C.P. settings. I switched it back to AUTO, left the ram running at 1333Mhz and Windows 10 installed fine. I then decided I didn't want to leave 1866Mhz memory running at 1333Mhz so I manually configured to speed and timings of the memory in the BIOS. It's now running at 1866Mhz and I haven't had any issues running games or benchmarks. That being said, my system seems stable and temps haven't gone above 50C. They typically stay around 34C on idle and up to 45C on load.

Anywho, Thanks for reading if you've made it this far... Let me know if you'd had similar experiences.

Thanks
AJ


----------



## THC Butterz

1.) XMP is more for intell than amd
2.) all ddr3 will always default to 1333
3.) set it manually always... easy!
4.) your cpu might be thermal throttling
5.) your cpu is a factory overclocked 8350... so dont expect much headroom...
6.) I would love to see pics of your rig!


----------



## ajcroteau928




----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> 1.) XMP is more for intell than amd
> 2.) all ddr3 will always default to *1333* JEDEC Spec of the Kit.
> 3.) set it manually always... easy!
> 4.) your cpu might be thermal throttling
> 5.) your cpu is a factory overclocked 8350... so dont expect much headroom...
> 6.) I would love to see pics of your rig!


Fixed for ya!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajcroteau928*
> 
> Hey everybody,
> 
> Got my new ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R3.0 setup last Friday. First of all, I didn't like the previous motherboard ASRock 990FX Extreme9 motherboard. I'd wanted a Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 but the one I got from Microcenter, which was the last one, had a bent pin on the USB3.0 header socket. So with my computer now in pieces on my kitchen table, I went back and reluctantly bought the Extreme9. But, recently when I saw the R3.0 Sabertooth, I felt there was enough on the motherboard to justify the upgrade. IE, m.2 socket, rgb lighting, properly displaying the speed of my processor (4715Mhz instead of 4689Mhz), etc. Call me crazy but if I buy a 4700Mhz Processor, CPU-Z or HwInfo should both display at least 4700Mhz. (This bugs the f*&^ out of me with the ASRock boards). Besides, ASUS just makes a better motherboard period.
> 
> I had a couple of issues getting it configured properly. First, I'm running an FX9590 and seeing as there is very little headroom for OC, I decided I'd keep it @ stock speeds. So, I went into AI Tweaker and noticed that the RAM was using the JEDEC config of 1333Mhz for the memory. My memory is G.Skill rated at 1866Mhz however I couldn't pick the XMP option for the RAM. I did however noticed that I switch from Auto to D.O.C.P. I then got the option to pick the XMP Profile. So while installing windows, I started getting BSOD for CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT exceptions. So after some googling, it could be one of two things, either heat or memory. I'm running a Corsair H110 280mm AIO which has been running fine and keeping things cool with my previous 990FX motherboard and my FX9590 chip. Plus, the ram i was using was also from the previous motherboard. So, I guessed it might have something to do with the D.O.C.P. settings. I switched it back to AUTO, left the ram running at 1333Mhz and Windows 10 installed fine. I then decided I didn't want to leave 1866Mhz memory running at 1333Mhz so I manually configured to speed and timings of the memory in the BIOS. It's now running at 1866Mhz and I haven't had any issues running games or benchmarks. That being said, my system seems stable and temps haven't gone above 50C. They typically stay around 34C on idle and up to 45C on load.
> 
> Anywho, Thanks for reading if you've made it this far... Let me know if you'd had similar experiences.
> 
> Thanks
> AJ


If you feel the urge to go further, pick IBT AVX from the main Vishera Thread and HWInfo64.

Run IBT Very High while monitoring with HWInfo, post the results here, a lot of guys can help you get further if there's some room left.


----------



## ajcroteau928

Thanks for the tip mus1mus!!! I'll give intel burn test a try...

AJ


----------



## Korennya

Have those with an r2.0 version know how to monitor vddr and pcievid voltages? I can't seem to find these two voltages in hwinfo. They're both configurable in the bios. Reason I ask is that ai suite shows these voltages in the voltage adjustment panel. I havd my vcore and CPU-nb bolts set in bios, but the rest are set to auto. I noticed sometimes on boot ai suite will show those settings as 1.2v. Other times the Vddr will be at 1.7 and the pcie will be at 1.7. I'm trying to figure out if the auto setting is jumping around if if it's just an error in ai suite.

So anyone with hwinfo that can show me where to nab these voltages for monitoring?


----------



## mus1mus

Don't use AI Suite.

Turbo Vcore is better. Doesn't have those crappy warnings like DIMM at 120C.


----------



## Korennya

turbov core just appears to be an earlier version of the turbov evo thats in ai suite. From images, it's also used for setting voltages not monitoring them.


----------



## mirzet1976

For R2.0 is TurboV EVO in AI Suite for overclocking.


----------



## mus1mus

Yep. I do use the stand-alone version that can be used X99 though.

And yes, it doesn't help you monitor PCIe Voltage and VDDR. But those are the Voltages you'd rather not touch anyway. AUTO keeps them to the minimum.


----------



## Korennya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Yep. I do use the stand-alone version that can be used X99 though.
> 
> And yes, it doesn't help you monitor PCIe Voltage and VDDR. But those are the Voltages you'd rather not touch anyway. AUTO keeps them to the minimum.


Thats an assumption without a way to monitor them. And thats the whole point, I need a way to verify those voltages outside of the bios setting so I can detemine if they are actually staying put and it's a software error, or if they are changing.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Korennya*
> 
> Thats an assumption without a way to monitor them. And thats the whole point, I need a way to verify those voltages outside of the bios setting so I can detemine if they are actually staying put and it's a software error, or if they are changing.


*Smart assumption* nonetheless.









If you want a smarter option, grab a multi-meter and look for a way measure it.

AISuite is garbage from the get-go. If you still haven't realize that.


----------



## Korennya

Problem is the program you recommended does no monitoring and is just a sub system of ai suite anyway.

I'm asking for a voltage monitoring program that's not part of ai suite that can see those two specific voltages as hwinfo doesn't seem to be able to show them. I also think you're miss understanding me. I'm not getting odd wArnings about voltages. I'm noticing when I open turbov that this is where the. Voltages are indicated they are set at. Sometimes it says they are set at 1.2. Sometimes 1.7. Yesterday it said they were set at 1.31. So turbov isn't what I need as it's what showing the inconsistency. I need a different program to verify.

Auto also doesn't equal minimum especially on an overclocked setup. I have plenty of voltages that are not on minimum that were on auto. CPU-nb for example. When set to auto with a 2600 speed defaulted to 1.4v. I had to manual scale that back. Vcore on auto would go to 1.425 on auto if freq was higher than base clock speed. DDR voltage is at 1.66 on auto even though specs call for 1.5. So yeah, assuming pcie and vddr are at 1.2 just because they are on auto would be a foolish assumption. Hence why I'm asking if anyone is familiar with a 3rd party program that can see those specific voltages.

And I have both a digital and analog multimeter. Do you know where to find the positive rails for both voltages in question and the appropriate ground to eliminate ground voltage differentials?


----------



## Mega Man

First and foremost

Never trust software readouts. Most boards use the single cheapest chip to read voltage.

Second AI suite notoriously reads improperly

Third never trust software voltage

Fourth AI suite is junk

Fifth NEVER TRUST SOFTWARE VOLTAGE

(See a pattern here?)


----------



## Korennya

The pattern is no one has an altenative software solution. Unless were using a multimeter on the board were always usinfg software though the crap chip to see voltages, this includes the bios settings too right? Cause bios is nothing more than low level software coded to read the crappy interface chip that reads voltages?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Korennya*
> 
> The pattern is no one has an altenative software solution. Unless were using a multimeter on the board were always usinfg software though the crap chip to see voltages, this includes the bios settings too right? Cause bios is nothing more than low level software coded to read the crappy interface chip that reads voltages?


The gist here really is that you are looking for things that no software/developers give a damn. That means, they are not worthy to be monitored.

AISuite is junk. There's the pattern for you. Get rid of it or continue digging into it's dillema yourself.


----------



## Korennya

No.. I get that AI suite is junk. I"m not trying to be a prick.

I've done some digging. Windows 10 reliability panel has logged some hardware errors. LiveKernalEvent 141. It's a gpu related crash. So my question then becomes, could fluctuation PCIe VDD voltage cause this issue? Bios allows this voltage to be adjusted between 1.2 ans 2.2. Is there a known safe upper limit for this setting?

While the crash could be related to something else, there would appear to be a plausible link between a PCIe device and PCIe voltage? Is Pcie vdd a bus voltage like the Vddr or a slot voltage more like vcore or dimm voltage?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Korennya*
> 
> No.. I get that AI suite is junk. I"m not trying to be a prick.
> 
> I've done some digging. Windows 10 reliability panel has logged some hardware errors. LiveKernalEvent 141. It's a gpu related crash. So my question then becomes, could fluctuation PCIe VDD voltage cause this issue? Bios allows this voltage to be adjusted between 1.2 ans 2.2. Is there a known safe upper limit for this setting?
> 
> While the crash could be related to something else, there would appear to be a plausible link between a PCIe device and PCIe voltage? Is Pcie vdd a bus voltage like the Vddr or a slot voltage more like vcore or dimm voltage?


I have never seen a GPU-related crash on my R2.0 unless something's wrong with my GPU OC. Again, I don't believe PCIe Voltage swings as bad as AISuite shows.

We're gonna be talking overriding PCIe spec in the most blatant way possible if that is correct! Hard to believe it.


----------



## Korennya

My gpu isn't overclocked beyond its factory settings and I never tried doing so. The strange part is that it always crashes low load. Usually desktop. If I run something like witcher 3 on ultra I'll run for hours on end. But desktop or low demand games and it's random black screen. It'll go days and be fine then it'll crash twice in the same day. Annoying as it's not reproducible in a means that would allow me to test and adjust


----------



## Korennya

Maybe the base gpu and memory clocks on the gpu card are too low? Again. These are factory setting but that doesn't mean they don't need adjustment. I could just have a rare core or gddr that needs a touch more to do it's job right.


----------



## gordesky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> First and foremost
> 
> Never trust software readouts. Most boards use the single cheapest chip to read voltage.
> 
> Third never trust software voltage
> 
> Fifth NEVER TRUST SOFTWARE VOLTAGE
> 
> (See a pattern here?)


This. My 12v rail is always below 12 and goes down to 11,6v with hwininfo but when i tested with my meter it reads 12.02 at load and 12,09 idle but pretty steady.

Even in bios its wrong reads 11.8-11,9.

Now i see others reading at 12v or higher. but i think boards cant detect some psu readings right, maybe when the psu are older?

My 2 psus are pretty old power and cooling 750 old version about 7 years old and a tagan bz 900watts which was made back in 2008 currently using that. And so far solid.

Mainly because the 750 3.3v rail was always going lower and lower in hwin and i didn't have a working meter at the time. But i have a feeling software was wrong even for that...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Korennya*
> 
> My gpu isn't overclocked beyond its factory settings and I never tried doing so. The strange part is that it always crashes low load. Usually desktop. If I run something like witcher 3 on ultra I'll run for hours on end. But desktop or low demand games and it's random black screen. It'll go days and be fine then it'll crash twice in the same day. Annoying as it's not reproducible in a means that would allow me to test and adjust


sounds like driver issue ( when changing power states )

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Korennya*
> 
> No.. I get that AI suite is junk. I"m not trying to be a prick.


but you are not listening either
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Korennya*
> 
> I've done some digging. Windows 10 reliability panel has logged some hardware errors. LiveKernalEvent 141. It's a gpu related crash.


which could be next to ANYTHING
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Korennya*
> 
> So my question then becomes, could fluctuation PCIe VDD voltage cause this issue?


while i am sure it could, it isnt likely
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Korennya*
> 
> Bios allows this voltage to be adjusted between 1.2 ans 2.2. Is there a known safe upper limit for this setting?


i wouldn't mess with it at all PCIE is not work messing with
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Korennya*
> 
> While the crash could be related to something else, there would appear to be a plausible link between a PCIe device and PCIe voltage?


sure, but then again it could be solar flares as it seems that the solar flare happen at the same time. from what i have seen you state about it. there is no link between a and b ( not to be rude, but you never said when my voltage fluctuates it dies, you said i have seen aisuite fluctuate ( which we said is CRAP {which is due to false readings and warnings} but you insist we are wrong. not because it isnt crap but because you cant use anything else and if we must tell you to use a multimeter we must tell you where to...... ) so, as you dont understand something ( which is natural ) you assume it is the cause of the problems. i will almost guarantee you it isnt as we would have seen someone else with this same issue
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Korennya*
> 
> Is Pcie vdd a bus voltage like the Vddr or a slot voltage more like vcore or dimm voltage?


as i understand it neither but i really dont mess with pcie anything, it is a HUGE RISK to data.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gordesky1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> First and foremost
> 
> Never trust software readouts. Most boards use the single cheapest chip to read voltage.
> 
> Third never trust software voltage
> 
> Fifth NEVER TRUST SOFTWARE VOLTAGE
> 
> (See a pattern here?)
> 
> 
> 
> This. My 12v rail is always below 12 and goes down to 11,6v with hwininfo but when i tested with my meter it reads 12.02 at load and 12,09 idle but pretty steady.
> 
> Even in bios its wrong reads 11.8-11,9.
> 
> Now i see others reading at 12v or higher. but i think boards cant detect some psu readings right, maybe when the psu are older?
> 
> My 2 psus are pretty old power and cooling 750 old version about 7 years old and a tagan bz 900watts which was made back in 2008 currently using that. And so far solid.
> 
> Mainly because the 750 3.3v rail was always going lower and lower in hwin and i didn't have a working meter at the time. But i have a feeling software was wrong even for that...
Click to expand...

voltage is voltage. does not matter the age. this is why, DO NOT TRUST SOFTWARE USE A MULTI METER


----------



## gordesky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> voltage is voltage. does not matter the age. this is why, DO NOT TRUST SOFTWARE USE A MULTI METER


Yep but what i meant about age is not the wear of age but how old the hardware is. Cause it seems like some motherboards shows a voltage right at 12v and i notice its with newer power supplys.

But yea i never trust software monitoring after i got my first meter years ago

Does that apply to the 3.3v rail too? Cause i know my first power and cooling psu had a problem with the 3.3v rail which i had to rma it, Cause the 3.3v in hwin kept droping till one day it hit 2.9-.3.00v and than i got lock ups and blue screens and found out the 24pin and 6 pin had burnt marks when i removed them.

Rma that psu and they sent another and the 3.3v been a steady 3.3 with no problems.

Now i didn't check it with a meter cause i wasn't sure how too at the time. The 2nd one 2 months ago started going lower down to 3.133v again but had no issues but didn't take a chance and just switch to the tagan 900watts which is at 3.26v. Didn't use a meter cause it was broken at the time had to get a new one few weeks ago.

To test a 3.3v you test it at the 24pin orange wire+ and - on a black wire ground right? saw that when looking how to test a 3.3v on google but want to be 100% sure first.


----------



## Korennya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sounds like driver issue ( when changing power states )


I'm trying clock block right now to try and detemine if it's that very issue.

As for the voltage, I've changed it from auto to 1.2 and it hasn't changed since.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gordesky1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> voltage is voltage. does not matter the age. this is why, DO NOT TRUST SOFTWARE USE A MULTI METER
> 
> 
> 
> Yep but what i meant about age is not the wear of age but how old the hardware is. Cause it seems like some motherboards shows a voltage right at 12v and i notice its with newer power supplys.
> 
> But yea i never trust software monitoring after i got my first meter years ago
> 
> Does that apply to the 3.3v rail too? Cause i know my first power and cooling psu had a problem with the 3.3v rail which i had to rma it, Cause the 3.3v in hwin kept droping till one day it hit 2.9-.3.00v and than i got lock ups and blue screens and found out the 24pin and 6 pin had burnt marks when i removed them.
> 
> Rma that psu and they sent another and the 3.3v been a steady 3.3 with no problems.
> 
> Now i didn't check it with a meter cause i wasn't sure how too at the time. The 2nd one 2 months ago started going lower down to 3.133v again but had no issues but didn't take a chance and just switch to the tagan 900watts which is at 3.26v. Didn't use a meter cause it was broken at the time had to get a new one few weeks ago.
> 
> To test a 3.3v you test it at the 24pin orange wire+ and - on a black wire ground right? saw that when looking how to test a 3.3v on google but want to be 100% sure first.
Click to expand...

1 I used to have a similar problem with my 3.3v reading 2.8 - 2.9 it was frustrating... turned out to be a issue with my sleved extensions giving a poor connection...

any how yes that is basicially how to check 3.3 orange is 3.3v DC and black is your common (ground)!


----------



## gordesky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> 1 I used to have a similar problem with my 3.3v reading 2.8 - 2.9 it was frustrating... turned out to be a issue with my sleved extensions giving a poor connection...
> 
> any how yes that is basicially how to check 3.3 orange is 3.3v DC and black is your common (ground)!


Hmm never thought of that.. That does make sense maybe that was the problem, And is a problem with this power and cooling. will need to look at that psu and check that out.

Would love to use it again cause its a great strong psu. Ony issue i had with it is not modular and that psu has tons of thick heavy cables lol

The tagan 900watts is good too but its my uncles which he lost most of the cables for it which im very limited to it...

Will check the 3.3v with my meter now that i know how to do it lol


----------



## Vash the Stampede

I wish I saw ur issue sooner I had the same problem with the same exact 2,ssd. To get them in raid 0, u would need to actually update the firmware the bios of the 2 Samsung Evo 850 to the same exact bios it took me like 2 days to figure it out and after a phone call to Samsung and finally to Asus. It was finally figured out and resolved


----------



## Vash the Stampede

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Korennya*
> 
> Would also finally let me get around the damn Samsung 850 evo not working when the Sata ports are set to raid. I could finally hardware raid my storage discs again!


Look above post from this one for fix


----------



## Korennya

Problem is. I only have 1 850 evo. Anytime i put the sata controller into raid instead of achi it disappears. My 2 seagate drives are still there.

Doesn't matter anymore, the 850 is disconnected. I'm running an 860 evo on a pcie adapter as boot and 2 seagates in raid 0 other stuff.

Not a fan of the seagate hybrid shhd drive. Have two in raid, hiping that the collecitve 16GB of ssd onboard would be nice, but the drives are just plain slow.


----------



## Vash the Stampede

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Korennya*
> 
> Problem is. I only have 1 850 evo. Anytime i put the sata controller into raid instead of achi it disappears. My 2 seagate drives are still there.
> 
> Doesn't matter anymore, the 850 is disconnected. I'm running an 860 evo on a pcie adapter as boot and 2 seagates in raid 0 other stuff.
> 
> Not a fan of the seagate hybrid shhd drive. Have two in raid, hiping that the collecitve 16GB of ssd onboard would be nice, but the drives are just plain slow.


yep same exact problem... i bet the 2 SSD's did not have the same firmware, the older firmware of the EVO 850 renders it unable to even detect when on the RAID controller... ,in your case I bet both of yours had the older firmwares.

for me I was lucky... because i had an older evo 850 which i have been using, so i found it odd that my older SSD was the one having problem when i finally switched over from ACHI to RAID.

It didn't hit me that both firmwares did not match until I realized that my newer one had no issues at all being detected on the raid controller and I saw it was on a newer firmware version. Once i had both SSD's on the same firmware (newest versions) everything was detectable, and I have been running windows 10 on raid 0, with 2x Evo 850 ssd's for about a year now.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

any one ever got a problem where they switched off their pc and the case fans remains on?


----------



## tashcz

Not once, when I used to own a Sabertooth. You sure the PC is off when that happens?


----------



## NonXistant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> any one ever got a problem where they switched off their pc and the case fans remains on?


Does it stay on constantly?


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NonXistant*
> 
> Does it stay on constantly?


yes the 12v rail drops to 5 volts the cpu fan stops spin video card is off.. The led case fans remains on but dim and spin slowly :/.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Not once, when I used to own a Sabertooth. You sure the PC is off when that happens?


yess the pc is safely shutdown. If i hit the main switch on the psu everything goes off.. if i flip the psu switch on all the case fans light up dull and spins slowly.. i check the voltage at the yellow wire i see 5 volts. When i hit the power switch everything powers and boots up like normal i get my 12v... Psu EVGA700B


----------



## mus1mus

That's a weird PSU!

You better isolate it and check if 12V rail gives out a 5V standby Voltage even when not powered thru Green and Black wires.

That may break some stuff.

If not, double check the cables are inserterd to their proper sockets.


----------



## NonXistant

Did you rule out the fan header might be broken? ie swap fans and see if it persists.
Fans arent on a fan hub?

If thats not the case, like mus1mus said. Weird PSU, a spare laying around?


----------



## PurpleChef

*sabertooth 990fx r2.0
*

Only usb 3 driver thats working is windows default driver (2016-07-15) Driver version: 10.0.14393.0

When i update the driver with the one from the asus support -> driver page, it stop working.

And i had Diablo 3 crash since ive started to use the usb 3.0 port... dont know why, might be this ****y asmedia controller?

All usb 3.0 ports is asmedia, and unfortunately the 3.0 ports is the only ones with good IRQ numbers. Cant get mouse on its own IRQ without usb 3.0...

and no matter what usb 2.0 port i connect the mouse to, it ends up on "Standard OpenHCD USB Host Controller", never on "Standard Enhanced PCI to USB Host Controller" as suggested...


----------



## miklkit

Huh! I just updated those drivers yesterday and noticed nothing different. I just checked and the USB3.0 ports do not have compatible drivers installed. Guess I don't have anything plugged into USB3.0.


----------



## PurpleChef

So They dont work, is that what u are saying? Trash usb 3 ports om this board?
Updated with the ones from Asus site?
Plz controll ?


----------



## BinaryBummer

I just had my system BSOD loop and trashed my drive due to USB drivers went teets up.. The Asmedia USB 31 for win 8-81 and Win 10 did something. I reworked my M.2 SSD 4 times before finding the issue with the Unexpected system handles error without and code.

I leaned towards the Nvidia driver cause I just updated to the latest, but it turns out when I reinstalled it all went on then pop BSOD. The last install I kept a track record and as soon as the USB drivers installed it happened almost right after.

So I am not going to risk it but it may be a chance that the install of the driver app may have loaded the 8.1 driver rather then the Win 10 ones. So far the system is running stable. I will go back and OC it later on.

If anyone else has issues with those drivers I would be curious to know.


----------



## NonXistant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> I just had my system BSOD loop and trashed my drive due to USB drivers went teets up.. The Asmedia USB 31 for win 8-81 and Win 10 did something. I reworked my M.2 SSD 4 times before finding the issue with the Unexpected system handles error without and code.
> 
> I leaned towards the Nvidia driver cause I just updated to the latest, but it turns out when I reinstalled it all went on then pop BSOD. The last install I kept a track record and as soon as the USB drivers installed it happened almost right after.
> 
> So I am not going to risk it but it may be a chance that the install of the driver app may have loaded the 8.1 driver rather then the Win 10 ones. So far the system is running stable. I will go back and OC it later on.
> 
> If anyone else has issues with those drivers I would be curious to know.


Same thing here, right after installing USB 3.1 drivers BSOD. And probably killed some things on my mobo incl sound card... At first i thought it was the new sound drivers. but after reading your post i can't think of anything else than the USB drivers...

EDIT:
Just noticed my USB drive is dead aswell


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NonXistant*
> 
> Same thing here, right after installing USB 3.1 drivers BSOD. And probably killed some things on my mobo incl sound card... At first i thought it was the new sound drivers. but after reading your post i can't think of anything else than the USB drivers...
> 
> EDIT:
> Just noticed my USB drive is dead aswell


Strange indeed. No problems on this side..

I really doubt that a driver can cause this as it only happens to a few people and if its an driver issue more people would have the same issue i presume.

I guess its RMA time for you pal...


----------



## NonXistant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Strange indeed. No problems on this side..
> 
> I really doubt that a driver can cause this as it only happens to a few people and if its an driver issue more people would have the same issue i presume.
> 
> I guess its RMA time for you pal...


Not gonna send it back and miss the PC for 2+ weeks... Allready orderd a sound card, still got 8 months of warrenty left







So if anything else breaks i'll RMA it. Till then i'm good


----------



## miklkit

I worked on a system for my nephew yesterday. Sabertooth R2, 8370, Phanteks PH14 cooler. Installed win X and then started the updates. He has a wireless keyboard and mouse and had the sensor in the front usb 3 port. When it installed new usb drivers it lost the keyboard and mouse. I switched the sensor to a regular usb port and they came back.

There were no crashes as he uses a mechanical HD and the sound is from his 290X video card.

But this makes 2 Sabertooth R2s with no usb3 for me. What is the procedure for getting and installing the old usb3 drivers?


----------



## zila

The sound on my Sabertooth 990FX R 2.0 died a long time ago. It happened right after a video driver install. And it was THAT driver install that took it out no doubt about that. I have since been using a sound card with the board and all is well. Not worth RMAing in my opinion. Others have had the exact same issue and just RMA'd there boards.


----------



## Korennya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I worked on a system for my nephew yesterday. Sabertooth R2, 8370, Phanteks PH14 cooler. Installed win X and then started the updates. He has a wireless keyboard and mouse and had the sensor in the front usb 3 port. When it installed new usb drivers it lost the keyboard and mouse. I switched the sensor to a regular usb port and they came back.
> 
> There were no crashes as he uses a mechanical HD and the sound is from his 290X video card.
> 
> But this makes 2 Sabertooth R2s with no usb3 for me. What is the procedure for getting and installing the old usb3 drivers?


Curious as to what bios version you are running on these 2 R2 boards?


----------



## gordesky1

I been having issues with my bose companion 5 speakers they would loose sound or a long beeeeeee noise till i unplug them or disable re able them.

Found the issue i had them plug in on the 3.0 port on front of the case.. after plugging them in a usb 2 problems went away...

Now mouse and keyboard and flash drive works fine in the 3.0 ports.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Korennya*
> 
> Curious as to what bios version you are running on these 2 R2 boards?


One has the latest bios and the other has an older bios, 2501.


----------



## Korennya

I used the previous version of as media drivers on 2501 and the newest on 2901. Had no issues. I use a Sata 6 USB 3.0 drive on the back panel USB asmedia port. It manages 90 MB/s. I had to manually change the bass storage driver to asus 3.0 boost driver after installing the latest asmedia drivers. That enabled uasp ability


----------



## PurpleChef

Only working 3.0 driver mouse/keyboard is old 2013 driver. Sad


----------



## miklkit

So it's time to dig out the old installation cd then.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I worked on a system for my nephew yesterday. Sabertooth R2, 8370, Phanteks PH14 cooler. Installed win X and then started the updates. He has a wireless keyboard and mouse and had the sensor in the front usb 3 port. When it installed new usb drivers it lost the keyboard and mouse. I switched the sensor to a regular usb port and they came back.
> 
> There were no crashes as he uses a mechanical HD and the sound is from his 290X video card.
> 
> But this makes 2 Sabertooth R2s with no usb3 for me. What is the procedure for getting and installing the old usb3 drivers?


If I read right MS has locked out Intel USB 31 and I have tried a few times to install but ends up in BSOD system handler error with no report to what. Once I skip the Asmedia 31 drivers for the install system runs stable. I suspect that I don't have the 3.1 working either.. (Sabertooth r3.0)

Edit: Here is a post that if you read down has some insight on 3.1 for a ASUS Z170 http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-3147214/windows-update-broke-asus-z170-prog-gaming-usb-driver-front-panel.html Even here the end result was what i encountered.

Maybe MFG should sue MS and see if they can overthrow the dictatorship and put back the user environment allowing us to pick and choose. Is there ever a hope that Windows can allow the flexibility like a Linux environment.


----------



## miklkit

Update.

I got out my Sabertooth installation cd and installed the usb3 drivers from it and it now works. I use IoBit Driver Booster to keep all drivers up to date and set it to ignore usb3. Now to see how long it will take MS to mess this up again.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Update.
> 
> I got out my Sabertooth installation cd and installed the usb3 drivers from it and it now works. I use IoBit Driver Booster to keep all drivers up to date and set it to ignore usb3. Now to see how long it will take MS to mess this up again.


Wish you luck, I did try the most recent and I tried my factory install disc as well, but they both went south.

Keep us posted..


----------



## miklkit

I'll know it if they die as I now have the mouse and keyboard plugged into them.

IIRC these drivers are dated 7/2014.


----------



## umeng2002

It's generally not adived to plug a mouse and keyboard into the USB 3 ports since those go through a separate controller then through the south bridge.


----------



## miklkit

Think: A canary in a coal mine.

Just wondering if anyone would be interested in the usb drivers off my installation cd?


----------



## NupeGamer11

Hey Guys and Ladies,

Recently built my first gaming rig. Sadly, I am running into a bit of trouble. My rig has the ASUS sabertooth AM3+ R2.0 and for some ODD reason, my new logitech z506 does not work. I tried installing both VIA HD Audio and RealTek with the same results. The front ports work find, but the back will not work for my head phones for R and L speakers for my ears and for the system. The other odd thing is that I have NO sound from the speakers, but will get sound when doing the test. It totally has me baffled at the moment. I currently have windows 10 and every forum stated having the problems with this unit and no answers. Is it my mobo? It shouldn't be the problem since it is only 4 months old, but the back ports do not work. Another weird thing is that when I download the updated drivers for realtek from the ASUS website, the testing gets really weird. For example, when testing on 5.1, I get sound from the center and back R/L speakers. I will not have sound from the front R and L speakers. For 7.1 settings, I get sound from every thing else, but the no sound from front R and L test.

Again, all will make a noise during the test but will not work other than that.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Think: A canary in a coal mine.
> 
> Just wondering if anyone would be interested in the USB drivers off my installation cd?


I'll keep it in mind but after all the issues with the 3.1 Asmedia driver I had I am not rocking this boat.. What is funny is the original install on my system to all the drivers and never had that problem.. If it woks leave it huh..


----------



## miklkit

Huh. It's not a drivers issue if it works while testing. The sound system on this board is buggy so a dedicated sound card might be the solution. The only problem I have with my Creative X-FI is that win 10 updates keeps trashing the drivers for it and I have to keep reinstalling them.

Mouse and keyboard are still working fine.


----------



## saddestcreation

That is definitely not a driver issue. Sounds like a hardware issue, ie speakers. But if it tests fine then I would have to say a port is bad. If you are able to, get a cheapo audio card and test, otherwise get a nice one and just use that.

Knock on wood, three years on mine and not a problem.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NupeGamer11*
> 
> Hey Guys and Ladies,
> 
> Recently built my first gaming rig. Sadly, I am running into a bit of trouble. My rig has the ASUS sabertooth AM3+ R2.0 and for some ODD reason, my new logitech z506 does not work. I tried installing both VIA HD Audio and RealTek with the same results. The front ports work find, but the back will not work for my head phones for R and L speakers for my ears and for the system. The other odd thing is that I have NO sound from the speakers, but will get sound when doing the test. It totally has me baffled at the moment. I currently have windows 10 and every forum stated having the problems with this unit and no answers. Is it my mobo? It shouldn't be the problem since it is only 4 months old, but the back ports do not work. Another weird thing is that when I download the updated drivers for realtek from the ASUS website, the testing gets really weird. For example, when testing on 5.1, I get sound from the center and back R/L speakers. I will not have sound from the front R and L speakers. For 7.1 settings, I get sound from every thing else, but the no sound from front R and L test.
> 
> Again, all will make a noise during the test but will not work other than that.


Probably not, but be sure you have the main plug into the right color, I have a green that with my eyesight the way it is I tend to put it into the wrong jack and yields no sound.


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

I wonder if the USB problem is an ASUS board issue. I've had 2 different ASUS boards in the last 5 years, both of them have had USB bugs. When I say bugs I mean they work for almost everything except my phones and tablets.

The connection goes on an on and off loop, never really could function very well at all. The boards I had/have:
ASUS M4N98TD EVO - RMA'd once because the USB's stopped working altogether, the replacement all of them worked but the phone tablet thing persisted.
Sabertooth 990FX is what I have now- RMA'd once but due to post failure. The replacement also had the same weird USB thing lol

I gave up honestly. They all otherwise work with my external drive USB 3.0 (speed tested and all) yet ASUS hates my smart devices....and its all of em. 2 boards in 5 years and about 8 different phones all of which the same problem :/


----------



## saddestcreation

My sabertooth R2 doesn't seem to care for android ran devices. My windows phone works flaw less with the mobo.


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saddestcreation*
> 
> My sabertooth R2 doesn't seem to care for android ran devices. My windows phone works flaw less with the mobo.


Really...well as it happens all of my devices are and have always been Android. Come to think of it I think one of the very very early ones (used with my ASUS M4N98TD EVO) was a blackberry and I don't recall any of these headaches. Maybe it's Android and Asus lolol. Crazy after all these years to find that out rotfl. Thanks bud


----------



## saddestcreation

Every time I plug my wifes phone in (droid turbo) it's a game to get it to read it. I love my windows phone, my second one. Its running Windows 10. I know a lot of people don't like it because it doesn't have as many apps as android or iPhone


----------



## gordesky1

Yea mine has a problem with charging some phones... It charges my htc droid which is a power hungry phone still quad core 5inch screen and 2gb of ram, But it wont charge my zte phones dual core 1gbs lol.....

Now i ony charge my devices on the front ports cause im lazy to reach in back lol.. But yea as far as i know on mine the front ones are buggy as hell...

Its a great overclock able board no doubt about that but i say mine been the most buggiest board i used... Cause my board does have its issues... And cant send it in for warranty yet because no backup lol...


----------



## miklkit

Huh. My old HTC One had problems but I attributed that to buggy software. Now I have a Samsung J3 and it works fine. The only thing to remember is that the phone has to be turned on before the puter will see it.

Oh, and the mouse and keyboard are still working fine on the old drivers.


----------



## saddestcreation

It's gotta be the device that's the problem right? Lol blame it on Samsung, Motorola, and HTC. That makes more sense, cuz this boards is awesome!


----------



## miklkit

Note that I am using usb 3 drivers from 2014 in order to get them to work. The latest drivers do not work, but the old ones do. Is it the board's fault?


----------



## saddestcreation

I will have to check what drivers I am using.


----------



## saddestcreation

"USB ROOT HUB (USB 3.0) driver date: 3/17/2017
Driver Version: 10.0.15063.0"
That should be the most recent driver for usb 3.0 and mine is working fine except for android ran electronics.


----------



## miklkit

It seems the problems started in February and maybe now they have fixed them. Or not all the way. I am still on the old drivers.


----------



## BinaryBummer

I won't trust it.. I will wait till I wipe my system in order to try them. After all this USB 31 crap I won't rock the boat to boast the new driver versing BSOD loops and a complete install from scratch. I'm old and life is short, got less time to do things. If I want to use my system that is what I paid for not to diagnose and figure out how i can make it work.

As i said in the older post when I built this system, it all installed and worked right but sometime down the road MicroSuck had to diggle with the stuff as they always do and cost me countless days of diagnosing the issue.

Cheers!


----------



## saddestcreation

I don't blame you one bit, and fully understand. These boards are popular and used by thousands and they can't seem to get around microsofts crap.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> I won't trust it.. I will wait till I wipe my system in order to try them. After all this USB 31 crap I won't rock the boat to boast the new driver versing BSOD loops and a complete install from scratch. I'm old and life is short, got less time to do things. If I want to use my system that is what I paid for not to diagnose and figure out how i can make it work.
> 
> As i said in the older post when I built this system, it all installed and worked right but sometime down the road MicroSuck had to diggle with the stuff as they always do and cost me countless days of diagnosing the issue.
> 
> Cheers!


The older I get and the more updates seem to bung things up.... the more I miss the days when the internet didn't exist and your pc was never in need of an update.... just turn it on and play... same thing with consoles... kids these days are used to all this update nightmare crap, but I remember playing games that just worked like they came... no downloads, no updates, no bull crap just play... I'm not sure that all this multiplayer online junk is worth all the headache and definitely questioning the idea of letting macro suck update my pc anymore...

the last update from macro suck bunged up my boot... now I have a picture for the log in screen and then black screen for about 30 seconds with only one app opening and then finally the thing will just suddenly be ready with all apps loaded... at least it still boots this time... a few months ago when the beta version of this update rolled around and I tried it voluntarily... well... it died... had to roll back the update which took some doing since it wouldn't boot properly....


----------



## miklkit

Heh. 2 days ago I got a big Macroshaft update and when I tried to shut down the system afterwards it got stuck in an endless loop. 15 minutes later I hit the reset button and shut it down that way.

Yesterday while gaming it went through a period of stuttering and freezing. It was not the game but must have been another update sucking resources. When I shut it down for the night I found on HWINFO64 that temps had gotten high (66.8C) and there were WHEA errors as well. Wunderful.

But this morning it booted fine and when I ran the full maintenance utilities everything is fine. Maybe I dodged a bullet this time.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

my son's pc died... complete re-install of windows look needed... likely because he hasn't updated drivers since the thing was built... ddu and re-install of my video drivers solved my update woes... so mine is ok now... but he also had lots of that lovely "free" software...basically malware... not vicious malware, just the free crap that's loaded with lots and lots of ads... and resource sucking background monitoring apps that tell the publisher how you use the software... and everything else probably... so his likely had a few thousand viruses.


----------



## f1LL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> my sons died...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> complete re-install of windows look needed... likely because he hasn't updated drivers since the thing was built... ddu and re-install of my video drivers solved my update woes... so mine is ok now... but he also had lots of that lovely "free" software...basically malware... not vicious malware, just the free crap that's loaded with lots and lots of ads... and resource sucking background monitoring apps that tell the publisher how you use the software... and everything else probably... so his likely had a few thousand viruses.


lol, you got me there









looks like punctuation actually is important.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f1LL*
> 
> lol, you got me there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks like punctuation actually is important.


oh my.,... I did leave out a very important piece of punctuation there...... I'll have to go edit that bit... lol.. sorry for the startle... he is perfectly fine... just his pc isn't.


----------



## Hiv359

Hey guys, Im wondering, is there any way to stabilize DRAM voltage on r2.0? Atm Im using 1.6v in bios, opt. phase and 450Hz on dram voltage freq.
Currently systems runs on @4.6 2.6\2.6 and 2133 9 10 10 24 34, VDRAM jumps from 1.5675 to 1.5875(HWinfo64), I am not happy with that at all.
Thx.


----------



## Mega Man

Sure is, don't trust software readings. The kitty had the best voltage control of all boards....


----------



## TekG

Hello guys.
Minding on a nice heatsink for my 8320e (would like to reach 4.2ghz, that's all). Had my sabertooth 990fx r2.0 now, used from another user (cause price was good) but without retention block sistem on it.
I would like to have place for an 80mm fan on vrm. Minding on the usual CM 212 evo or similar (even if i would not spend more, prefere less.... but...).
Have u got any tips for that?

Thank you very much!


----------



## miklkit

With an 8320E @ 4.2 ghz it should not need a fan on the vrm heat sink. Just normal case air flow should be enough.


----------



## umeng2002

I have my 8320e at 4.6 GHz and I don't have any fans on the VRM... I do have a fan on the back of the socket though. And the highest Vreg probe is in the 70°C range.


----------



## TekG

Ok, Thank you very much guys!
Uhm,..anout rams, Unfortunatly i've got a mixed 8gb. That means 2x2gb kingstone hyper & 1x4gb corsair dominator.
1)Should them run dual channel Unlinked, means 2x2gb run in dual channel and 4 gb not, right?
2)Any suggestion about the heatsink on this main?
3)About air cooling, should i put the video card on the snd beige slot on mainboard?

Thanks, and sorry about questions


----------



## miklkit

1) Not only is that ram unmatched, it is different types from different manufacturers. Throw it away and start over. 8 gb is now the absolute minimum amount needed for good system performance while 16 gb is recommended for great system performance. 4 gb is barely enough to run windows, much less any games. This is an example of what you should be looking for if it is within your budget. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231528

2) I'm not sure I understand your question so will presume that you are asking about a cpu cooler.







I only recommend twin tower coolers with fans that can be moved up and down on the heat sink. Today that means the Noctua D14/D15 or the Phantek 14 PE.

3) I used to mount the video card in the top slot just like everyone else until I put an industrial thermometer inside the case. It showed that the hot exhaust air from the video card was being blown up into the intakes air stream of the cpu cooler. This was making the cpu run hot.

I now place the video card in the lowest slot and it works fine there.


----------



## umeng2002

In your BIOS, you want the memory to be in unganged mode.


----------



## TekG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> 1) Not only is that ram unmatched, it is different types from different manufacturers. Throw it away and start over. 8 gb is now the absolute minimum amount needed for good system performance while 16 gb is recommended for great system performance. 4 gb is barely enough to run windows, much less any games. This is an example of what you should be looking for if it is within your budget. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231528
> 
> 2) I'm not sure I understand your question so will presume that you are asking about a cpu cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only recommend twin tower coolers with fans that can be moved up and down on the heat sink. Today that means the Noctua D14/D15 or the Phantek 14 PE.
> 
> 3) I used to mount the video card in the top slot just like everyone else until I put an industrial thermometer inside the case. It showed that the hot exhaust air from the video card was being blown up into the intakes air stream of the cpu cooler. This was making the cpu run hot.
> 
> I now place the video card in the lowest slot and it works fine there.


Ok, from the photo i understand how is better to set the gpu. I would like to choose the 2nd pci ex cause of the southbridge heatsink and a better airflow i think.


----------



## miklkit

Experiment and do what gives the best temperatures.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Also check new ram if it is profiled for AMD or Intel.

Not saying you can't use it, but if it is for your brand it may be just enable the AMP or to get that easier.

You may end up manually tweaking it after you OC it.


----------



## miklkit

Well, it happened. I just got updated to the Win 10 Creators Edition and.............lost the usb 3 ports.







As expected.

Gotta dig out the ASUS installation cd again.


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Well, it happened. I just got updated to the Win 10 Creators Edition and.............lost the usb 3 ports.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As expected.
> 
> Gotta dig out the ASUS installation cd again.


just go to the controller manufacturer's website and download from there. Motherboard makers are notorious for slow driver updates... ASMedia I think.

I don't even use USB 3 - just turned off in the BIOS.

My external hard drive is eSATA.


----------



## miklkit

Well i did end up getting pretty new drivers that say they are Microsoft drivers, but they work. USB3 is working again.


----------



## diggiddi

Hey guys I tried updating to 32gb Trident X ram which I successfully tested individually in a CHVZ and even one stick passed in a Asrock 880G extreme3 motherboard
But I cant get this saber to boot with even one stick. memok light flashing, removed battery to reset bios
PC did shut down due to OCP prior but has always started up after bios reset
Help

Also anyway to defeat 3C code in bios(CHVZ)


----------



## tashcz

None of 4 sticks work on the Sabertooth? Have you checked timings in BIOS?


----------



## diggiddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> None of 4 sticks work on the Sabertooth? Have you checked timings in BIOS?


Wheew, I finally got it to work by using power button instead of memok button
Thx though


----------



## tashcz

My Sabertooth was damn picky about RAM. Old SiliconPower 1600MHz CL10 didn't wanna work on it, and couple others I tried. Than I got some HyperX that was on the recommended list and it worked like a charm. Though I had to swap sticks once in order for it to work. Who knows...


----------



## miklkit

It's hard to get 32gb of ram to play nice with the Sabertooth from what I've heard. Have you tried all the different presets?

I didn't have trouble with 4 x 4 gb of G Skill but the different presets did work differently.


----------



## Mega Man

Only of high speed (2400)


----------



## gordesky1

Welp looks like my saberkitty ram slot or something is gone I been having issues with it for a year and i always had to pull up on the water block or heatsink to get full 16gb to show... Or it will ony show 8gb.

I boxed it away when i went ryzen but i wanted to get it back going so i can try mining on it with my 390 sense i found a great deal local for a 1080 founders for my ryzen build.

i built it again and got everything running and now no matter what i do i cant get it to see 16gb At the moment using the stock heatsink.

So looks like i might have to rma it...


----------



## SearchEngine

Do you believe it's worth buying sabertooth r3.0 for fx6300?


----------



## miklkit

Hmm. Interesting question. Of course the Sabertooth can handle a 6300 but some of the less expensive boards should be able to handle it just fine too. Do not consider the cheap boards at all.

What is the intended useage?


----------



## SearchEngine

Well i'm thinking into overclocking around 5GHz, because i have bottleneck in heavy games, especially GTA V.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

just my two cents







but for that game... as cheap as they are I'd go for 8320 on the saber kitty and get a good cooler and OC the crap out of it....


----------



## SearchEngine

Thanks for the help, i think i'll buy it and then find a used 8320


----------



## THC Butterz

I just pushed my 8350 to 4.8 ghz @ 1.475V, after several hours of boot-test-crash cpu seems stable hitting about 82c, (i need to clean my radiators lol) but my vcore was hitting 89C when i stopped stress testing... and i have a dual fan out of an old xbox 360 blowing directly on the heat sync... oh well looks like ill have to clean my components and lower my clocks / voltage... cry...
I did manage to pull a 747CB score in cinebench 15 though...


----------



## hurricane28

Yeah, those temps are waaay to high.

Max recommended temp is 72 c on the cores and max voltage is 1.55 vcore.


----------



## THC Butterz

yah i kinda have ****ty ambients... i just bought a thermaltake view 31 so tomorrow when i get it and throw away this old HAF 932 ill clean all the things lol


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> yah i kinda have ****ty ambients... i just bought a thermaltake view 31 so tomorrow when i get it and throw away this old HAF 932 ill clean all the things lol


also keep in mind depending on the program you are using to monitor that may be socket temp...i havent followed this thread very closely lately so sorry if youve already determined this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diggiddi*
> 
> Wheew, I finally got it to work by using power button instead of memok button
> Thx though


oddly enough i too had a bios issue this week with memory settings....mem ok button and reset settings and fine since...wouldnt post until i reset settings though...


----------



## moiloon

hi, just acquired a used sabretooth r2.0 , I'm well chuffed, I know its a relatively old board, but best I could afford, anyhow, it doesn't have the cpu cooler retention bracket or backplate, my question is must the cpu cooler retention back plate for this board be a metal one, as looking at pictures online of the original its metal, but I cant find one to buy anywhere, but the plastic retention bracket with a plastic backplate are abundant, will one of those suffice?
just gonna be sticking with the stock cooler until I can afford better
best regards


----------



## BinaryBummer

I would think it is designed with the gasket thing on the metal bracket. I am sure if you use a aftermarket CPU cooler you can change it out since the CPU cooler may need it's bracket in order to support the unit.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moiloon*
> 
> hi, just acquired a used sabretooth r2.0 , I'm well chuffed, I know its a relatively old board, but best I could afford, anyhow, it doesn't have the cpu cooler retention bracket or backplate, my question is must the cpu cooler retention back plate for this board be a metal one, as looking at pictures online of the original its metal, but I cant find one to buy anywhere, but the plastic retention bracket with a plastic backplate are abundant, will one of those suffice?
> just gonna be sticking with the stock cooler until I can afford better
> best regards


drat... I can't find my old one... I tried to find it for you since i don't use it because I am using a custom water look cooling solution with it's own bracket.


----------



## Mega Man

Should be ok.


----------



## moiloon

I hope it is ok to use a plastic one, as ive now been searching for a week fruitlessly for a asus metal backplate, so looking like I'm gonna have to use a plastic one, cheap enough to buy, but its gonna be a nightmare if it causes issues, stripping system back down, and that's only if I could source a metal one , just my luck


----------



## moiloon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> drat... I can't find my old one... I tried to find it for you since i don't use it because I am using a custom water look cooling solution with it's own bracket.


thankyou for looking for the bracket for me, but as always with my luck, nothing goes according to plan lol


----------



## Mega Man

EBay sells them
Google
ebay am2 backplate


----------



## miklkit

Someone else ran into this problem a while back. I boxed one up along with a stock cooler and was ready to ship it to him, then found out the price of shipping equaled the cost of a new aftermarket cooler complete with its own backing plate.


----------



## moiloon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> EBay sells them
> Google
> ebay am2 backplate


this was 1st place I looked, they are all plastic using that search , not metal


----------



## Mega Man

https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjotNHTgO7VAhUEtcAKHd7OBmkYABABGgJpbQ&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAASEuRokhUNNV0_UDmcUEtzNV_9Zg&sig=AOD64_0a3C0acrapwsgxAZV_cM4TiGPg8Q&ctype=5&q=&ved=0ahUKEwjU0svTgO7VAhUmi1QKHZYsDIwQwg8IHQ&adurl=

It keeps opening in ebay app


----------



## moiloon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Someone else ran into this problem a while back. I boxed one up along with a stock cooler and was ready to ship it to him, then found out the price of shipping equaled the cost of a new aftermarket cooler complete with its own backing plate.


so which aftermarket cooler is best on a budget if you don't mind me asking?

bare in mind I'm not at present wishing to overclock this board, as I'm still reading up and trying to learn all about overclocking before I delve into this


----------



## diggiddi

Hyper 212 variants seem to be the go to budget cooler


----------



## miklkit

I dunno. I normally advise the Deepcool Gammaxx 400 for a cheap cooler but it uses the stock AMD mounts.................. The 212 used to sell for $10 but now it is over $40. That part of the market is full of coolers.


----------



## moiloon

also which cooler is best for the FX range of cpu's?
as the stock cooler is blowing air down onto cpu, is that correct?, so must an after market cooler do the same? blow air down onto the cpu?


----------



## Minotaurtoo

generally a good top range air cooler like a noctua for stock usage or something like an corsair H100i closed loop cooler for overclocking... and if you plan on overclocking fans blowing across the vrm's and you'll be good...


----------



## moiloon

thankyou


----------



## Cartel

Sabtooth 990FX 1.01 going on 7th year of everyday usage.
OS Installation Date 12/8/2011


----------



## moiloon

another question, regarding water cooling, is the only worthy closed loop a h100i?
or is the lesser models worthy of purchasing also?


----------



## umeng2002

H80i whatever letter they're one, but it's loud.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I've run one of those h80i's and they don't really do a great job of keeping these vishera's cool enough to get much OC... my son uses one and only on the fastest fan profile can he hit 4.5ghz... on normal he has a decent 4.2 out of his 8320E


----------



## diggiddi

I'd say get one that's expandable so after warranty expires you can maintain it


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diggiddi*
> 
> I'd say get one that's expandable so after warranty expires you can maintain it


+1 to this.... I can't recall right off the top of my head which ones are expandable though...

custom cooling is all I've done for years now except for my sons rig... now that I think of it it's time for me to clean my loop out...


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I've run one of those h80i's and they don't really do a great job of keeping these vishera's cool enough to get much OC... my son uses one and only on the fastest fan profile can he hit 4.5ghz... on normal he has a decent 4.2 out of his 8320E


I have an H80i and my 8320e is at 4.6 GHz. Temps never go above 55, and the fans aren't maxed out. But they are still loud.


----------



## BinaryBummer

I just added this to my VRM's on the front side not that I need it. I got the fan from a old dead Dell system. I simply fould a piece of plastic that was able to fit in the PCI slot, and used a heat gun to bend and twist it to the angle I needed.


----------



## PurpleChef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*
> 
> I just added this to my VRM's on the front side not that I need it. I got the fan from a old dead Dell system. I simply fould a piece of plastic that was able to fit in the PCI slot, and used a heat gun to bend and twist it to the angle I needed.


Thats creative. You inspired me







double foam tape seems worse then this solution!


----------



## BinaryBummer

Thanks the fan has been in place running fine and has not fell out yet. I used a piece of plastic that came off my Stanley thru socket set, it was a lock of sort for the packaging. Anyways it was really near perfect and done a mild sanding to get it just right.

Heat gun was easy to use on it as well and allows you to tweak it to the just right position. Luck for me I have a fan header right near the PCI-16 slot so that worked perfect as well.


----------



## Mega Man

Yea, till you need that pcie slot, and the pins are bent and damaged because you inserted something that was never intended to be in it


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yea, till you need that pcie slot, and the pins are bent and damaged because you inserted something that was never intended to be in it


Already thought of that as well.


----------



## specialedge

Does the Greater Sabertooth 990FX community consider the TUF model/Ver3 to be worse than the 2.0 model?


----------



## tashcz

Nope, but once my Sabertooth died, I was tempting to get the r3. But when I saw the prices... too late to the party and too free to put that price on a board. Asus made a bad move. If it was 2-3 years ago...


----------



## specialedge

What was the price??


----------



## tashcz

Last time I checked, it was around CHVZ price, about 235-250EUR. Either way I could get almost any other top board on the market for that money, excluding some x399 and top range ROG boards.


----------



## sli_shroom

I picked up the tuf/v3 model. it was perfect timing as I needed an upgrade, already had the memory and proc, and didn't want to wait and build a ryzen based pc.

I am one of the few that the timing was right for though. asus kind of screwed up on the timing of its release though.

the only thing i dont care for is the memory controller. ran fine for quite awhile as long as i kep the timings and freq down. now with all 4 slots populated (32gb) i get random issues (freezes/blue screens/etc.)...and this is with the voltage turned up a bit and memory clocked down to 1600 (amd suggested max when populating all slots) even though it is 2133 memory.

memory tests fine, but exact kit wasnt on the qvl. the 16gb version was (same model/manufacturer), but that could be contributing to the issues as well.

i wouldnt rush out and buy one now, but it has been pretty good to me so far


----------



## tashcz

Price will never come down, same story with the CHVZ. 235EUR here for 4-5 years. No changes, expect it gets out of stock. If you don't have good cooling (a GOOD AIO or a custom loop) you wont get much more out of it then from lets say an Aura. With an NH-D15 I'm temp limited. Also seems like the R3 uses same MOSFETs as the Aura, but its 7+1 vs 8+2 with phases.


----------



## specialedge

Damn, €250 is pretty high. I was pretty late to the game when I purchased mine but I really have enjoyed learning about the state of the technology today, at least through the FX series and into ryzen.

I picked up and FX 8320E this weekend at Micro Center discounted half off down to 79.99. I'm just sorry to see that the only new boards remaining are 970s.

Google shopping results shows me sabertooth 990 FX boards all around 454, and I bet none of them are sealed boxes. I guess these boards are just getting into the realm of Mickey Mantle rookie cards and 1942 copper pennies ?


----------



## tashcz

Get the Aura, that's what I got after the Sabertooth. It's BIOS is almost the same, has decent cooling, lacks 1 power phase, but can do almost what a Sabertooth can do.


----------



## specialedge

That's a good-looking board!

I always had a question regarding the chassis fan headers.... are they able to be controlled separately? Or all together as one? So disappointed that my three very different fans must be controlled together, unlike my crosshair 6 hero :,-(


----------



## sli_shroom

aura or sabertooth? I don't know with the aura, but they are all controlled independently on the sabertooth r3


----------



## specialedge

this guy?? https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/TUF-SABERTOOTH-990FX-R3-0/



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## sli_shroom

that is it...

but now that i look at aisuite...i guess i lied to you. i assumed each chassis fan was selectable in aisuite, but it doesnt look like it is that way at all.

sorry to get your hopes up. that is what I get for not running any chassis fans


----------



## tashcz

Aura has only 3 indepentant: Chassis fans, water pump and CPU. All chassis fans are tied together which I didn't know and I got pissed off when I found out. Also, Aura doesn't support PWM for chassis fans even though the connectors are 4 pin.

That's what made me always buy same fans for chassis and for CPU, etc. Now I'm using all Arctics on my chassis, that are 1300-1500RPM.


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sli_shroom*
> 
> that is it...
> 
> but now that i look at aisuite...i guess i lied to you. i assumed each chassis fan was selectable in aisuite, but it doesnt look like it is that way at all.
> 
> sorry to get your hopes up. that is what I get for not running any chassis fans


U got no chassis anyway


----------



## THC Butterz

anyone know what is the best Gpu the sabetooth can handle without bottleneck (FX-8350)? I had to sack my sli last night due to a ill timed GPU death in my wifes computer, so im looking to upgrade


----------



## diggiddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> U got no chassis anyway


RX 580 would be good


----------



## tashcz

Yeah, if he can get one because of the miners. RX580, GTX1060, no big difference.


----------



## specialedge

tashcz whats that fan controller you're using?


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *specialedge*
> 
> tashcz whats that fan controller you're using?


Not using any. I'm pretty happy with 3 independant fan outputs. I've set my fan curves in BIOS and that's it. It takes socket temperatures to control the fans. My case fans go from 60% at 40C to 100% at 60C, my NH-D15 fans go from 40% at 40C to 100% at 55C. The third fan output (made for pump control) controls the 70mm backplate fan thats glued onto the backplate with a little bit of super-glue, it's at 0% till 47C and ramps up to 100% at 65C socket temps that I never reach.

It's just a matter of getting same specced fans. If you use 1000RPM and 2000RPM fans on one connector that won't work for you. But either way, why mix a bunch of different fans in the case. I learned it the hard way.


----------



## tashcz

I've also got a fan controller on my case that can do 20/40/60/80/100% but I don't like it. I like stuff set to auto and forget about it.


----------



## specialedge

Oops, i was supposed to direct my question toward Sli_Shroom XD


----------



## sli_shroom

lamptron fc5v3

i ran the older version (4 channel) for years so when it came time for a 6 channel I went with the newer version.

very happy with it


----------



## Jflisk

Try one of these you will never go back.The Aquaero fan controller.

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/index.php?cPath=62_63&XTCsid=kmr15epeja59iiargc2v5o9n2ldr1ccn


----------



## specialedge

Outstanding that is one hell of a peripheral!


----------



## ZoomThruPoom

Has anyone been able to get 2400mhz RAM run at the 1T command rate on this board?

I've got two different Mushkin 8GB sets that I can run at 2400 yet only in 2T. Timing don't seem to matter, super loose or extra tight, still only 2T.

I ask cuz I planned on getting 16GB ram for this rig before I hand it down later this year.

Was wanting to try a 16GB 2400mhz set, but if it's impossible or that rare, to run 2400 memory at 1T, I'll just grab a 2133 set and call it quits spending monies on this rig.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I had a corsair vengeance kit that hit 1t but for some reason it would randomly crap out so I put it back to 2t did't lose a whole lot of performance with that.... gained it back by boosting the cpu/nb to 2600 actually and just left the ram at 2t


----------



## specialedge

I snagged a C5FZ board off ebay, used for 164, reportedly from a working system as its owner upgraded to Ryzen. I'm pretty stoked to get to try it out. At this point I will have to open up an AMD FX Museum in my home to make these last six months anything other than "a waste of time and money" or "steve's newest problem"









Also nabbed was a secondhand EK 140 kit for cheap. The plan was to use VRM waterblocks to cool Saberkittytron III in pursuit of 5+ club. Now I may have to decide which candidate will receive the upgrade!


----------



## sli_shroom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I had a corsair vengeance kit that hit 1t but for some reason it would randomly crap out so I put it back to 2t did't lose a whole lot of performance with that.... gained it back by boosting the cpu/nb to 2600 actually and just left the ram at 2t


I have had random issues with my corsair vengeance kit too. figured I was causing most of them by running 32gb (4x8gb), which I know limits the frequency with the fx chip, but even at the slower speeds (1600 and 2t), I was getting random lockups/pfn list corruptions/etc.

when running any 2 of the sticks (all of them test out ok), I can run at the rated timings (@1.65v)


----------



## Cartel

I wonder if AMD or Asus is gonna stiff us for the bios update for spectre


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cartel*
> 
> I wonder if AMD or Asus is gonna stiff us for the bios update for spectre


Of course. My Rev1 never got an official update to handle 8320e or the 9 series FX chips, although they work fine. And there was some microcode updates too in future patches they never bothered to roll into a new BIOS.


----------



## zila

I hope we see some updates soon, I have several 990 chipset boards in need of the bios update. I have a lot of money invested in Asus Motherboards.


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> I hope we see some updates soon, I have several 990 chipset boards in need of the bios update. I have a lot of money invested in Asus Motherboards.


Asus doesn't care. Extended ASUS support is buying their new products.


----------



## diggiddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZoomThruPoom*
> 
> Has anyone been able to get 2400mhz RAM run at the 1T command rate on this board?
> 
> I've got two different Mushkin 8GB sets that I can run at 2400 yet only in 2T. Timing don't seem to matter, super loose or extra tight, still only 2T.
> 
> I ask cuz I planned on getting 16GB ram for this rig before I hand it down later this year.
> 
> Was wanting to try a 16GB 2400mhz set, but if it's impossible or that rare, to run 2400 memory at 1T, I'll just grab a 2133 set and call it quits spending monies on this rig.


I believe I had a 16gb set of Gskill; snipers @1T. Gskill rep said snipers are a good fit for AMD


----------



## warpuck

As for Saber Kittys and other high end boards. While water cooling gets good results, the dang things ain't water proof. AIOs work well, until they clog up. LN does it it too, but that is a make it or break it thing. So I guess if ya can't afford to break it? Ya do know Dirty Harry was right about limitations. Also the big problem with mining is the cave in.


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cartel*
> 
> I wonder if AMD or Asus is gonna stiff us for the bios update for spectre
> 
> 
> 
> Of course. My Rev1 never got an official update to handle 8320e or the 9 series FX chips, although they work fine. And there was some microcode updates too in future patches they never bothered to roll into a new BIOS.
Click to expand...

the Rev 1 never got patched for the 9 series because they are 220w and are well above what the rev 1 was designed to do, it was only engineered for 125w cpus


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz*
> 
> the Rev 1 never got patched for the 9 series because they are 220w and are well above what the rev 1 was designed to do, it was only engineered for 125w cpus


It has the same CPU Vregs.









When Rev 2 came out, it wasn't even labeled as 220 Watt. When AMD released the 9 series, they only bothered with the rev 2 for BIOS updates.

Rev 2 only adds a BIOS ROM size twice as large facilitating more advanced quick boot, Digi+ for the memory and modified RAM traces.

That's about it as far as performance differences.


----------



## Wr3cklessAnt1cs

Hi guys, I'm new to the Sabertooth 990FX. I recently purchased one for my FX9590.

So here is my problem. My VCORE-1 temps are always pretty hot compared to the rest of my board. They hover right around 60-65C during IDLE and work up slowly to 80 on load. I noticed it the other night. I was playing Borderlands 2, which isn't a very intensive game, and when I left the game Asus AI Suite II notified me that my VCORE was up to 80.

I expected to have heat issues with my processor, as they run hot, but not my VCORE on the Sabertooth. I have a 240mm radiator/liquid setup for my processor, with a push/pull fan setup. Pictures of my hardware and AI Suite will be attached.

Can anybody help me lower these temperatures, or give me so tips? I don't think VCORE should be running that hot when the system is idle. But maybe I'm wrong.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

first I'd put a fan 80mm or something there about blowing on the vrm and socket area... the other thing is that sometimes the contact with the thermal pad isn't so good on the heatsinks... if the board is warped that could cause it... you can test this by pushing on the heatsink *gently* in various locations near the affected area and see if the number drops quickly...


----------



## Wr3cklessAnt1cs

Thank you. I will check the thermal pad and heatsink when I get out of work tonight. I ordered a few new fans last night, too.


----------



## Mega Man

The creeping up temps indicate a lack of air flow


----------



## tashcz

Everything is fine, he's getting those temps because he's using an AIO without additional air cooling on the board. He needs a fan on the socket back or on the VRMs or both.


----------



## Wr3cklessAnt1cs

tashcz said:


> Everything is fine, he's getting those temps because he's using an AIO without additional air cooling on the board. He needs a fan on the socket back or on the VRMs or both.


I think you're right. I raised up my AIO so the board gets more air flow, and the temps are 3-5C lower, but I received 2 new 120mm fans today. The CoolerMaster fans designed for directing air at a certain point. I'm going to fix one to aim directly at the VRM and socket. Will report back in a few how that works out.

Thanks for the advice, guys. Much appreciated. I'm kind of new at this. I've been building and fixing PCs since I was 16, I'm 27 now. This is the second gaming PC I've built, my first didn't have liquid cooling. I'm not used to the more powerful hardware, I used to just tinker with my family computers and such, Dells, HPs, etc.


----------



## Wr3cklessAnt1cs

Added the 2 new fans, and raised up the AIO. Airflow is much more prominent, and it's working well. Temps for my VCORE only go over 40 when I'm gaming.

Thanks for the tips and advice, guys.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

glad to hear it helped : )


----------



## Synister

So... after moving my PC - I plugged everything back in (it’s been boxed for a week) and now I have the Boot Device LED lit and no idea how to fix it. Any thoughts? Or someone come across this before? Nothing’s changed in the rig. Just powered down, and unplugged for 7-8 day’s. I’ve no other rig to help diagnose with here either.


----------



## bbowseroctacore

remove residual power from the motherboard, replace cmos battery, unplug all sata cables and power to hdd's/ssd's and re-connect them also at the motherboard end. reset cmos jumper and hopefully get into bios to see what u have - hope this helps


----------



## diggiddi

Change your boot device and see


----------



## Synister

bbowseroctacore said:


> remove residual power from the motherboard, replace cmos battery, unplug all sata cables and power to hdd's/ssd's and re-connect them also at the motherboard end. reset cmos jumper and hopefully get into bios to see what u have - hope this helps


This ^ thankyou - seems the CMOS battery was worn out. New CR2035 and it went straight to bios. Best thing was it kept all my profiles still, so didn’t have to redial in my overclock!



diggiddi said:


> Change your boot device and see


I couldn’t as it wouldn’t even post or get to bios - 
Even using the direct key


----------



## bbowseroctacore

glad to see ur up and running again. cheers


----------



## Metalcrack

I have to bid you all farewell. My Saberkitty gave up the ghost. It's outside of warranty, so I have a cheapo 970 until the new Ryzen 3000 chips come out. Was an amazing board that really let me push my system to it's full potential. I can't even run my RAM at rated specs on this board..... GA-970A-D3P V2.1. This was the cheapest board that I could plug everything into and run. Sad day.

CPU LED is on and I tried everything. Replaced the mobo in same case and all is well. Tried resets, BIOS reflash, batteries, power supply, new processor, RAM, outside of case, on a box eating gummy bears doesn't matter ................................... Just gave up on me. I will try a new BIOS chip from ebay, after that maybe flip it for cheap for someone who wants parts.


----------



## tashcz

It's a pity that one of the best boards of that time didn't get the successors it needed. Also a pity it was such an underestimated board.

What's with all the new "tuf" components? The only real "tuf" component was the Sabertooth!!! I can't believe what they've done to the brand.


----------

