# Post Pics of your audio DIY [56k warning!!]



## .Sup

Thought it would be nice to have a do-it-yourself thread to post our makings. Not sure if there anything on this subject yet but post basically everything audio related









Today I made desktop speaker stands. Tweeter now at ear level




























Thoughts?


----------



## Syrillian

Very nice custom work you did. +


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Syrillian* 
Very nice custom work you did. +










Thank you very much for your nice comment and the link Syrillian


----------



## grip_racer

aw those are cute.

the best threads are ones where someone has built something. rep+

so do they resonate at all? maybe use a little modeling clay in between where the speakers contact the stands.


----------



## Mikecdm

Those look really nice. There is also the new hi-fi gear subforum.


----------



## biatchi

They are nice looking speaker stands


----------



## soloz2

I like the idea of a DIY audio forum for members to show off their DIY gear. I know there's enough people here who have made at least something worth showing off!

I'll add a few (of several) items that already have photos uploaded.

To keep with the original theme: speaker outriggers for my ELT525T's




























And a Millet Hybrid amp I built for another forum member with pre-out and pretty much maxed out with Blackgates, push button power switch, pure silver wire in the signal path, OptiVol... etc.



















A pair of Millet Hybrid Max boards being populated:










And another Max:



















An equipment rack I made:



















And that's all for now


----------



## Lunartuna

Quote:


Originally Posted by *.Sup* 
Tweeter now at ear level
Thoughts?



PRIME!!!


----------



## Lunartuna

PRIME!!!


----------



## .Sup

Soloz fantastic looking amps. Did the enclosure come with the kit? Do you make amps for order or was it made for your friend as an exception? Nice work man









Quote:


Originally Posted by *grip_racer* 
aw those are cute.

the best threads are ones where someone has built something. rep+

so do they resonate at all? maybe use a little modeling clay in between where the speakers contact the stands.

Thanks for your comment. I used some kind of pads that are usually used for chairs so the chair doesn't make marks on the floor. Also under the speaker there is 5mm of rubber. Thanks for comments everyone!


----------



## 20Driver07

heres my set up. I'll probably change it soon.


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *20Driver07* 
heres my set up. I'll probably change it soon.

What exactly is DIY here?


----------



## click here

Quote:


Originally Posted by *.Sup* 
Thought it would be nice to have a do-it-yourself thread to post our makings. Not sure if there anything on this subject yet but post basically everything audio related









Today I made desktop speaker stands. Tweeter now at ear level










Thoughts?

Dude, I think you got a defective monitor, something is wrong with your backlight, seems a little too bright.


----------



## Html33

Quote:


Originally Posted by *click here* 
Dude, I think you got a defective monitor, something is wrong with your backlight, seems a little too bright.

That's glare of the flash. Lol.


----------



## Turnoz

Right now im building myself a dual subwoofer enclosure but I don't have enough money so im gonna use the woofers from my older speakers







i'll try to get some pics.


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Html33* 
That's glare of the flash. Lol.

lol I didn't know if he was serious or not


----------



## eureka

I don't think he was.

And soloz, do you actually get a blank PCB and solder all the components on? That's crazy. I don't like soldering so much anymore. ;(


----------



## Aura

I've done some wood cup work in the past.





































That's pretty much it :/. Hopefully I'll get to do at least one this summer depending on the monies.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *.Sup* 
Soloz fantastic looking amps. Did the enclosure come with the kit? Do you make amps for order or was it made for your friend as an exception? Nice work man









Thanks for your comment. I used some kind of pads that are usually used for chairs so the chair doesn't make marks on the floor. Also under the speaker there is 5mm of rubber. Thanks for comments everyone!

I've been known to build amps for people from time to time. They can be time consuming so I typically just do it on a one at a time basis, however once I move I'll be able to have an actual workbench where I can do casework, which will really clear up my workbench inside... so I can have a dedicated amp building station if I want









And no, the enclosure didn't come with a kit... I didn't buy a kit (unless you count the OptiVol, which was a kit I put together, but I ordered each and every part and the enclosure you're asking about was actually a custom order









And thanks!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eureka* 
I don't think he was.

And soloz, do you actually get a blank PCB and solder all the components on? That's crazy. I don't like soldering so much anymore. ;(

Yep, came as a blank pcb and I populated all the parts, after hand matching the resistors and transistors.
I like building amps... it's the casework I don't like. There's just something about starting with all the components and then listening to beautiful music once you're done that gives me a great deal of satisfaction.

Guys, lets stay on topic. There are other threads to post pics of your setup. This thread is specifically to post pictures, ask questions and for discussion on DIY audio.


----------



## LukeG

DIY means you built the speakers.... why are people posting brand names.....

Specially those cd player speakers







.

Just finished new LR loud speakers. Duel 12, individual chambers, horn tweeters, extended range mid. Active cross overs. Black vinyl laminate.

Woofers are ported through shared chamber will passive radiator. I do not have pics of bracing or the insides sorry.

Pics can come later.


----------



## 20Driver07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *.Sup* 
What exactly is DIY here?

Well, I was thinking of putting the speakers up higher. and put like a board accross the top over the screen but i don't on yet.

Have any ideas of things I could do?


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *20Driver07* 
Well, I was thinking of putting the speakers up higher. and put like a board accross the top over the screen but i don't on yet.

Have any ideas of things I could do?

it sounds like you're more after tweaks, so if you build the tweaks yourself then that would work, but moving speakers around hardly counts...


----------



## H3||scr3am

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
I like the idea of a DIY audio forum for members to show off their DIY gear. I know there's enough people here who have made at least something worth showing off!

I'll add a few (of several) items that already have photos uploaded.

To keep with the original theme: speaker outriggers for my ELT525T's




























And a Millet Hybrid amp I built for another forum member with pre-out and pretty much maxed out with Blackgates, push button power switch, pure silver wire in the signal path, OptiVol... etc.



















A pair of Millet Hybrid Max boards being populated:










And another Max:



















An equipment rack I made:



















And that's all for now

















my Max







Loving it Soloz







I just got a Beezar Kit ordered for a Millet Max Starving Student I plan to assemble for the office









http://beezar.com/oscommerce2/catalo...02e562b95b07f7


----------



## Mootsfox

I would like to build my own stands rather than buy them, but I'm not really sure where to start.

What is the best position to place the speakers at (height, angle, distance, etc)?


----------



## 20Driver07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
it sounds like you're more after tweaks, so if you build the tweaks yourself then that would work, but moving speakers around hardly counts...


Well originally, I did have a sort of DIY thing made up, (modded something off my old desk) But when i got a new desk, i had to give it back to my mum cause she took the desk and gave it to my sisters BF. So that bit had to go with it.


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mootsfox* 
I would like to build my own stands rather than buy them, but I'm not really sure where to start.

What is the best position to place the speakers at (height, angle, distance, etc)?

That really depends. First you build a stand that puts the tweeter to your ear level or a bit under. Once you're done finishing the stands you move speakers around a bit too see what suits you best.

Oh and Soloz, that turntable needs something more luxurious than cardboard under its feet, I know its DIY but still


----------



## Html33

Nothing special. The big black speakers on the floor each have very old Goodmans 4Ohms speakers @ 50W in them. The two top ones have some old ones not sure of wattage but they have four terminals with tweeters connected. I then have my sub that my brother gave to me which for me makes the rig sound so much better.

To drive all that i have a Cambridge Audo A5 amp


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mootsfox* 
I would like to build my own stands rather than buy them, but I'm not really sure where to start.

What is the best position to place the speakers at (height, angle, distance, etc)?

probably around 24-30" depending on placement and size of speaker you will be putting them on.

affordable audio had a swite up on some DIY stands several months ago. Look through the archives.


----------



## ace8uk

There are some nice mods in here, all very well finished, especially .sups and soloz speaker stands. This has kind of inspired me to do a little bit of DIY myself. I've been considering a DAC for a while for my Hi-Fi, but instead of buying one, I'm thinking about building one. Can anyone suggest any decent kits or guides?


----------



## H3||scr3am

depends on your price range and skill I guess...

Cheap and Basic:

Bantam PCB here
Alien

Midrange:
OPUS

Top-End:
Buffalo


----------



## cyberspyder

Built a set of Zaph BM4...

AKG K81 Headphone Recable

Quote:





































Ultimate Ears Super.fi 3/5 Pro Recable

Quote:

Recabled with 4 strands of 26AWG cotton insulated copper wire (SOLID CORE, litz braided). Word of advice, never, ever use it again for flexible application...the cotton insulation unravels and the wire fatigues (since its solid core) and you have a useless cable afterwards. As well, the insulation, because its easy to unravel-too easy, the wires may develop a short at a point where the insulation is gone. Also, kudos to those that do UE recables...the ffing UE connectors are a PITA to solder onto the wire...*DON'T ATTEMPT UNLESS YOU HAVE A CRAPLOAD OF TIME. *!^%$*%!$*!$%*&^!$*^!$**

Anyhow, I'll let the pics speak for themselves.









































































Yeah, I was pretty pissed at this pointâ€¦..this really sucks. Trip back to UE imminent, my third time back, maybe theyâ€™ll let me upgrade to a better pair?

Brendan


----------



## .Sup

Sub I made couple years ago, was actually my 1st DIY project and I went big straight ahead








I wanted to use Plexiglas as the stand but I lack the experience working with plexi I decided to use wood. I ordered the bass speakers made out of airplane aluminium from Germany and bought a 200 RMS sub amp here. Its made from hi density MDF boards and I also put some absorbent cotton on the inside to make the sound a bit softer. I sounds very well- deep soft bass, its how I like it. I calculated how much volume 3 speakers need and wired everything by myself.





































More pics on my FTP:
http://515.neonatus.net/arhiv/Sup/Subwoofer/


----------



## LukeG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *.Sup* 
Sub I made couple years ago, was actually my 1st DIY project and I went big straight ahead








I wanted to use Plexiglas as the stand but I lack the experience working with plexi I decided to use wood. I ordered the bass speakers made out of airplane aluminium from Germany and bought a 200 RMS sub amp here. Its made from hi density MDF boards and I also put some absorbent cotton on the inside to make the sound a bit softer. I sounds very well- deep soft bass, its how I like it. I calculated how much volume 3 speakers need and wired everything by myself.





































More pics on my FTP:
http://515.neonatus.net/arhiv/Sup/Subwoofer/










Do you mind getting a close up on the bottom and edges, would just like to see how you finished it. Great design, more for looks then SQ correct ? How does it graph ?


----------



## llama16

I've made nothing special yet. Just 2 Cmoys. Am using them as a temporary portable amp for ipod and Sennheisers 650s. As soon as the rest of my parts arrive for a MINIÂ³, I'll probably sell them.

Here are two pics of inside and outside.



















And this is my following project. I ordered the tubes and I'm about to order the parts in a second. But I decided I could already just design the casework. It's inspired on someone's casework of head-fi though so credits mostly go to him.










Let's just hope I can finish the interieur with succes before starting to build the case









Dries


----------



## cyberspyder

that looks like a zkool design


----------



## llama16

That's the name







I couldn't find it.
Yep Zkool has AMAZING casework!!!! But I must admit that when I had the tools, I would do nothing else but trying to match his doing.

But eyah as I said, all credits to him


----------



## gurusan

hey there llama. Good to see you here. Might as well post up my latest completion here as well









My 2nd starving student build. Sounds really, really good. Better than my P2P. It's really made my HD 580s shine with metal....I've just started REALLY enjoying Sonata Arctica.


----------



## .Sup

Looking great gurusan. What made the inner casing so scratched?


----------



## gurusan

Thanks...that was me with a big wonky metal file, de-burring the drilled holes. Could have taken my time and made it look prettier but it's just the inside of the case.


----------



## llama16

Hey there gurusan, glad to see you here as well. I've been longer on ocn then on head-fi allthough just ain't big of posters. You planning on putting rubber rings around the holes of the tubes? Imo it'd look better. Very nice built, I hope my SSMH will work just as well.


----------



## gurusan

Yes I am planning on putting some nice tube surrounds....I sort of want some metal ones though, may make my own if I can get my uni to let me use the lathes.


----------



## .Sup

i can post some up close pics of my LD MKIV protective rings if you want, they are wonderfully built


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gurusan* 
Yes I am planning on putting some nice tube surrounds....I sort of want some metal ones though, may make my own if I can get my uni to let me use the lathes.

http://www.vt4c.com/shop/program/mai...at_id=1030#375

for example


----------



## soloz2

those look cool, but tube rolling becomes a PITA...


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
those look cool, but tube rolling becomes a PITA...

With my LD I just need to unscrew(2 screws) the face plate on which these protective rings are mounted to do tube rolling.


----------



## llama16

but you can't really roll alot of tubes in a starving student. Unless you're really lucky and were one of the only ones that could get there hands on more then 2 pair of 19J6s


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *llama16* 
but you can't really roll alot of tubes in a starving student. Unless you're really lucky and were one of the only ones that could get there hands on more then 2 pair of 19J6s

Are the tubes for S. Student really that hard to get? I was thinking of buying some spares ones for mine.


----------



## llama16

Yep they're pretty hard to get.
they used to be like 5$ per tube at most tube sellers, but now they're almost nowhere available only at tubecenter (I think) where they are about 30$ for 2 (not even matched probably AND they ask 30 buck for shipping to europe!!).
www.beezar.com by tomb on head-fi sells them at 22$ per pair (and only 5$ for shipping to us, which was pretty amzing to me), matched and with a PCB. I ordered mine there, they are pretty much the only alternative if you want to keep the starving students budget. I'm gonna do p2p anyway so I won't need the PCB, still you can't buy a pair on beezar without PCB. You could also just buy a kit at beezar.
But I'd say hurry up! Because it wouldn't surprise me when the stock of beezar on the tubes would be empty as well soon.

(I dunno if I can say this shop's name, and price in this topic, let me know moderators and I will change the message. It's just my preference (and there ain't another shop really))

Dries


----------



## H3||scr3am

Mentioning the source, of beezr is fine in these forums, it's a legitimate retailer... owned by tomb, creator of the millet amp family...


----------



## llama16

Is tomb the creator? I thought pmillet was.


----------



## BugBash

Quote:


Originally Posted by *.Sup* 
http://www.vt4c.com/shop/program/mai...at_id=1030#375

for example









Hey that stuff looks pretty cool!!
REAL OLD SCHOOL!!
makes me think of the ORIGINAL Flash Gordon / Metropolis kinda sets/props!


----------



## Chipp

My MSHH on first power-up.


----------



## .Sup

You know what you did there with only one picture posted Chipp? You made us droll but we wan't to see more! Looks like something I would wan't to take with myself on an abandoned tropical island along with beer and hot females.








Also looking at the slim wallet made me think you spend quite a lot on parts.


----------



## Chipp

Haha - I'll take a couple more tonight. It is ugly inside though, be forewarned. Built it in an old cigar box from a local company here.


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
Haha - I'll take a couple more tonight. It is ugly inside though, be forewarned. Built it in an old cigar box from a local company here.

never had any particulary hot GFs but they sure knew how to make me happy hehe its not the looks its how they sound is what matters but tbh I like the external looks of your creation quite a lot


----------



## H3||scr3am

.sup, remember those are tubes, not tits...


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *H3||scr3am* 
.sup, remember those are tubes, not tits...

hehe tbh I didn't notice the resemblance until you pointed it out


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *.Sup* 
hehe tbh I didn't notice the resemblance until you pointed it out









It gives me a great idea for a custom enclosure


----------



## H3||scr3am

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
It gives me a great idea for a custom enclosure









we'll need a build log







and I think tube rolling could take on a new meaning


----------



## Chipp

As requested.


----------



## .Sup

Is it Starving student? The internals cables look pretty solid and thick which is nice. The only thing I'm not fond of is the volume know but thats personal preference I just think the cigar box deserves something more prestigious.


----------



## llama16

Yeah I think it's a starving student as well;


----------



## H3||scr3am

Yes it is Chipps Starving Student build









Maybe he'll make a custom wooden knob someday


----------



## Chipp

I'd like to refresh a couple things on it when I get a chance...

I'd like surface-mount tube sockets (I/E, without the shield), a new power button, and definitely a nicer pot overall (and a nice knob to go with it, too). From there I'm looking at replacing the RCA inputs with 1/4" TS and removing the pot alltogether.


----------



## .Sup

That doesn't sound like a STARVING student anymore Chipp


----------



## .Sup

Shortened the 3m (10feet) long cables to 1.5 (5feet) and sleeved it:
original cable



























For me its a success that the cans still work and the sound didn't get any worse








Can't wait to get the pro stuff for my 555s and 600s from Soloz

How do you guys like it?


----------



## [PWN]Schubie

the yellow sleeving looks pretty awesome


----------



## .Sup

thanks Schubie I think so too


----------



## Chipp

I'm also diggin' the techflex.


----------



## H3||scr3am

yeah, nicely done, goes nicely with your monitors


----------



## soloz2

the Techflex looks good, but how is microphonic is that cable now?









That's the worst part about techflex. Is much better for interconnects, not so much for headphone cables. Nylon multifillament is the way to go!


----------



## .Sup

i actually like it because it doesn't twist now.


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
I've done some wood cup work in the past.





































That's pretty much it :/. Hopefully I'll get to do at least one this summer depending on the monies.

Sorry for my inexperience, but what is this good for?


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rayce185* 
Sorry for my inexperience, but what is this good for?

It makes it so that when you're listening to them, you'll have wood on your head as well as in your pants.

Sorry, I just had to.


----------



## Rayce185




----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rayce185* 
Sorry for my inexperience, but what is this good for?

different woods will change the tone of the cans..... and make them look like sex


----------



## eureka

This probably isn't the right place to post it, or maybe it is...

What would be the best way to go about recabling/sleeving a pair of headphones? I was thinking of getting some AKG K 518 DJ and shortening the cable. Any directions anyone can lead me in?


----------



## cyberspyder

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eureka* 
This probably isn't the right place to post it, or maybe it is...

What would be the best way to go about recabling/sleeving a pair of headphones? I was thinking of getting some AKG K 518 DJ and shortening the cable. Any directions anyone can lead me in?

I'll point you to this, posted by yours truely


















Good choice on the cans BTW, make sure to burn them in (at least 200 hours) and remove the foam pads.


----------



## fps0alan

If my dad didn't take apart my old headset I would have gladly posted some pics but basically what I did was I took my pair of foldable Philips headphones and took a bendy straw slipped a webcam mic in it and taped it all up with electrical tape =D


----------



## lhowatt

setups look nice guys!


----------



## H3||scr3am

For any of you that can't get enough Tubes, and Love DIY, Check this out :

http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=194

I've been interested in Nixie Tube clocks for a while (It's amazing what you can find with a google search of vacuum tubes, lol) but noxies run up in the $300+ range, and are a lot harder to assemble, so I figure I'll start with one of these, plus it looks soooo cool







will post pics when it's done.


----------



## cyberspyder

But my Seiko keeps better time.....and its mechanical!

Meh, probably will buy one of it.


----------



## H3||scr3am

lol, yeah I ordered mine, and I'm going to order a Nixie kit next month









http://tubehobby.com/show_det.php?det=42

with a case

http://www.numinex.com/nxth-14.htm

nixies are sexai


----------



## Foooman

Just built a SSMH with the PCB.


----------



## Chipp

Well done.







Any pics of the guts?

I like those heatsinks.


----------



## soloz2

looks good, how does it sound?


----------



## Aura

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Foooman* 
Just built a SSMH with the PCB.

Nicely done sir







.


----------



## H3||scr3am

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Foooman* 
Just built a SSMH with the PCB.










nice







I'm currently working on fixing mine







sadly a short to case has damaged it , and I need to find and fix it... possibly replace some components...


----------



## Foooman

If you are doing the one with the PCB, mine was shorting on the Standoff next to the LED resistor, it looked fine, but the stress I put on the lid and PCB when screwing on the end caps pushed the standoff too close to the resistor. I just took out the washers.

I'm probably not the best to judge how it sounds because I'd be comparing it to a series of on-board audio that I've been using for like 8 years. Anyway, I wish I built it sooner. The mids and highs are so much clearer, and the bass isn't all muddy. This is listening on my AH-D2000 with the MarkL mod without a proper DAC. People without a headphone amp should really consider investing in one, even if it's as simple as the SSMH. It really does make a world of a difference.

It was my first project that involved extensive soldering and it was actually kind of fun, so fun that I bought the parts for a mini3 amp to build. My wallet thought computer parts were expensive, she hasn't seen anything yet. Maybe a Beta22 in the future







.

I'll edit in some gut pictures when I get home later tonight.

EDIT: As promised, gut pictures. Well not really like point to point wiring guts, but the inside none the less. I couldn't get a good shot on my lack of soldering skill without taking the PCB off the Lid and having to redo the heatsinks and that standoff. So these will have to do.


----------



## Aura

This isn't full-out DIY, but it is close. Ordered some speaker cable from BJC along with 8x banana terminations and put the stuff together myself. End result -




























Aesthetically I should put some shrink over the bananas to even out the appearance amongst them all, but I don't feel like doing it in case I might need to open up one of the plugs later on.


----------



## tweakboy

Here is DAW setup, thx


----------



## Foooman

Mini3, this thing is freakishly small. Seriously, pull out a card from your wallet and look at the second picture. It's tiny.


















Next I'm going make a LOD for my ipod. Just waiting on the wire and dock connectors to show up. Maybe after that I'll make a Gamma2, thankfully OPA2365 is out of stock everywhere for the next month or so. Otherwise, my wallet would be taking another hit. Maybe one day I'll build something where I do some casework, but that won't happen for a while.


----------



## Foooman

I need to make this like 1.5in shorter; I had no idea it would be so bendy. But I'll post a picture now, just because i spent like 45 minutes working on it after a double shift. So I as only half there


----------



## unl3a5h3d

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Foooman* 
I need to make this like 1.5in shorter; I had no idea it would be so bendy. But I'll post a picture now, just because i spent like 45 minutes working on it after a double shift. So I as only half there


















Did you make that LOD yourself?


----------



## Foooman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *unl3a5h3d* 
Did you make that LOD yourself?

Yes sir


----------



## soloz2

looks good fooman


----------



## unl3a5h3d

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Foooman* 
Yes sir

Would you be willing to make a fellow OCN'er one


----------



## Sparhawk

Just finished putting this little guy together...









Starving Student Millet Hybrid:


----------



## Foooman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *unl3a5h3d* 
Would you be willing to make a fellow OCN'er one









I would if I trusted my craftsmanship to last.







I'm sure someone who's made more than one would gladly make one.

Sparhawk, Grats on the SSMH. Feels good when you finish, doesn't it.

I took off almost two inches off my LOD I made a few days ago, and it makes the bend much better now.


----------



## H3||scr3am

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sparhawk* 
Just finished putting this little guy together...









Starving Student Millet Hybrid:















































































































































































































































man, why do I have the worst luck? mine is still KA-PUT


----------



## Sparhawk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *H3||scr3am* 
man, why do I have the worst luck? mine is still KA-PUT









That's no good. What's wrong with it?


----------



## getllamasfast

Just finished soldering my first cmoy.









My cmoy + my bros ATH-ES7s









macro shot of the cmoy itself









My first attempt at soldering something.


----------



## Firestorm252

oh hey! how did I not find this thread?

Newest addition, a Minimax. still gotta get the casework done though



























I'll get my cmoys and Mini3 posted once I get home









edit-----------
man you all take nice photos. mine are grainy at best haha


----------



## soloz2

looks good, did you get that as a kit?

If you decide to build a second be sure to try Panasonic FM caps in the PS instead of the Nichicon and get some Blackgates









Also, if you can remove the Vit-Q's you should insulate those leads so they don't touch the heatsink of your output transistors. 
Here's an original Max so the layout is a bit different, but it's much easier to see the heatshrink on the leads of the Vit-Q's than the pics I have of miniMax's.









Otherwise looks great, how does it sound? (if you haven't gotten the tubes to settle down yet don't listen to much... yet!)


----------



## Firestorm252

Actually, I didn't get it as a kit. I got most of it straight off the BOM; from mouser and beezar. After I got both channels working, Beezar started stocking the Minimax kits.

My luck's been kind of off with this project, SSMH (originally planned this one) tubes getting a bit harder to find, finding things in stock after I needed them after i got an equivalent alternate, trimmer being bad (and 1 from the few extra I ordered was bad too), and Beezar's kit after I got mine done.

And yeah, thanks for reminding me about that lead. Having an exposed lead that high off the board and next to a heatsink is leaving me a bit uneasy. I'll look into the Panasonic's next time I build one. This is just a "starter" of sorts, I get to start tweaking things and adding things from here on









edit-----------
oh yeah, it sounds great so far. I've been listening through various CD players, my PC, and PS2. noticing lots of little things I never could clue in on before, especially in live versions of songs.

I need to set aside some time to completely rerip my music into flac and make an interconnect for my PC, i'm using a weird mix of radioshack adapters right now haha


----------



## llama16

Yeah minimax should be my next build
Right now I have parts incoming for the SSMH.
I also have the needed parts available at AMB audiolabs for the Mini Cubed.
Though it's gonna be a pain to find a battery plus a fitted PSU for it :S


----------



## Firestorm252

Quote:



Originally Posted by *llama16*


Yeah minimax should be my next build
Right now I have parts incoming for the SSMH.
I also have the needed parts available at AMB audiolabs for the Mini Cubed.
Though it's gonna be a pain to find a battery plus a fitted PSU for it :S


make sure to put it together while wide awake.

sometime at like 2AM I managed to solder the battery contacts in backwards. they were an absolute pain in the backside to get taken out and flipped the next day >.<


----------



## llama16

hahaha, 
Don't worry though







I've actually heard that mistake a few times before, seriously.
So I already wrote it down to take note of it.
The MINIÂ³ will be a far futur build. I got most of the parts but trying to find the cash to pay for the customs when shipping to Belgium for the rest of the parts is almost half the build costs. :S

The SSMH, should arrive soon, it should be at the customs right now as I had to send a form of acceptance (which is just a fancy word for 'pay 21% of the value + 25euros for our trouble +3.5% additional costs, NOW!')

I'm gonna build 2 SSMHs
I bought the kit, but I already got tubes and sockets for the P2P build. But I though the kit would be a good practice when knowing that I only soldered 2Cmoys.


----------



## Sparhawk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *llama16* 
hahaha,
Don't worry though







I've actually heard that mistake a few times before, seriously.
So I already wrote it down to take note of it.
The MINIÂ³ will be a far futur build. I got most of the parts but trying to find the cash to pay for the customs when shipping to Belgium for the rest of the parts is almost half the build costs. :S

The SSMH, should arrive soon, it should be at the customs right now as I had to send a form of acceptance (which is just a fancy word for 'pay 21% of the value + 25euros for our trouble +3.5% additional costs, NOW!')

I'm gonna build 2 SSMHs
I bought the kit, but I already got tubes and sockets for the P2P build. But I though the kit would be a good practice when knowing that I only soldered 2Cmoys.

Sweet. Be warned this amp will make you want to spend more money...

I want to get some HD600s so my amp can be put to better use. The HD555's and HD280 are too low ohm to be driven effectively by this little guy.


----------



## llama16

I decided to go crazy a while ago and purchased the HD650
I was stunned how it sounded on a simple CMoy, but then it started to itch at me that it was a shame to only make it run on a Cmoy, it isn't worthy.

So I jst HAAAD to build a tube amp


----------



## .Sup

Now I have somewhere to hand my cans. ****ed up a bit but I'll get it fixed once I make some plaster.


----------



## mrfajita

Homebuilt 10" subwoofer. It normally resides under the bed, where its out of the way and gives the best bass response throughout the entire room.


















A used motherboard from ebay that I bought was packed in this nice egg-crate foam which has very nice sound dampening properties.


----------



## xguntherc

I wanna do the SSMH.. any info. I've PM'd tom at head-fi


----------



## lozanoa11

man i wish i could solder like you guys. I failed at making a cmoy last weekend







But I did learn a valuable lesson and am not spending a few hundred dollars on a millit kit.


----------



## Tridacnid

My latest piece of work: The L'espressivo


----------



## Danker16

*clears throat*, Say what?!


----------



## computeruler

I built my subwoofer box and threw a type r in there. I would give you pictures buts its ghetto and looks ugly. Pics when it looks nice.


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Danker16* 
*clears throat*, Say what?!



















What kind of software is that I see on the monitor there?


----------



## .Sup

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tridacnid*


My latest piece of work: The L'espressivo


Almost as messy as a Singlepower on the inside









I keed, I keed, nice job man


----------



## llama16

Finished my SSMH from Tomb a while back, am quite proud of it especially as I'm a beginning DIYer with limited budget, so here are the pics:


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *llama16*


Finished my SSMH from Tomb a while back, am quite proud of it especially as I'm a beginning DIYer with limited budget, so here are the pics:



















Looks goooood. I bet it sounds that little bit better knowing you made it too









You should get a LOD for the iPod though, it'll sound much better.


----------



## M1A1

And now for something completely different:









Completely DIY 2-way using a 3 inch Tang Band full-range driver (W3-1053SC) and an interesting woofer, the Tymphany LAT 250. The entire setup measures 21" high, 7" wide, and 11" deep; the TB sealed in 1 liter volume, the LAT occupies the other 14 liters and is vented at 80Hz. The front baffle is removable, held on by eight 1/4" stainless bolts and hurricane nuts, and was painted white but now is just wrapped in white speaker cloth. The rest of the cabinet only has a few coats of polyurethane.

Eventually the drivers will be individually amped when I get around to building a 4 or 6 channel amp, but for now they are run in parallel for a 4 ohm final impedance by a Dayton T-amp. I decided to shell out for a Behringer DCX2496 rather than buying the analog crossover components (which were more expensive than the DCX), so for now each driver is run fullrange







.

Sound still to be determined, but the Tang Band definitely sounds quite nice full range.




























Cheers,
Marty

PS. I'm looking at Class D or Tripath chip for the amplifier, but I'd love to hear some recommendations from the valve folks!


----------



## llama16

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tUDJ*


Looks goooood. I bet it sounds that little bit better knowing you made it too









You should get a LOD for the iPod though, it'll sound much better.


Thanks for the compliments. It does sound evry well.
I used another pair of 19J6 tubes first, but there was a horrible imbalance that swapped as I swapped the tubes. Now I have others which also have a slight imbalance (to the right) still tube dependant, but alot less (maybe 4%)

Yes, I'm planning on making a LOD, because honestly that output jack has seen better days. The screen is cracked actually. I have an ipod touch on which I set me Mp3s for with a cheap mobility IEMs. And this ipod I use for all my flax etc.


----------



## Sparhawk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *llama16*


Thanks for the compliments. It does sound evry well.
I used another pair of 19J6 tubes first, but there was a horrible imbalance that swapped as I swapped the tubes. Now I have others which also have a slight imbalance (to the right) still tube dependant, but alot less (maybe 4%)

Yes, I'm planning on making a LOD, because honestly that output jack has seen better days. The screen is cracked actually. I have an ipod touch on which I set me Mp3s for with a cheap mobility IEMs. And this ipod I use for all my flax etc.


I'd like to test some different tubes in mine, but the ones I have seem quite well balanced. I think I'll upgrade my cans to HD600s first.

That last paragraph contains many things that are not English.


----------



## H3||scr3am

Quote:



Originally Posted by *llama16*


Thanks for the compliments. It does sound evry well.
I used another pair of 19J6 tubes first, but there was a horrible imbalance that swapped as I swapped the tubes. Now I have others which also have a slight imbalance (to the right) still tube dependant, but alot less (maybe 4%)

Yes, I'm planning on making a LOD, because honestly that output jack has seen better days. The screen is cracked actually. I have an ipod touch on which I set me Mp3s for with a cheap mobility IEMs. And this ipod I use for all my flax etc.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sparhawk*


I'd like to test some different tubes in mine, but the ones I have seem quite well balanced. I think I'll upgrade my cans to HD600s first.

That last paragraph contains many things that are not English.










Ask and you shall receive







I requested a pair of well matched Raytheon 19J6s with my kit, and I got a pair within 2%, beautiful







and the best 19J6 tubes there are









now did you guys go with the beezar kit or the glassjaraudio kit?


----------



## llama16

Lucky guy on the tubes :S I wish I had better ones. But I'm content though








Iw ent with the beezar kit as a backup, becasue I have parts for the p2p version allthouhg I didn't want to stand empty handed when it comes to a failure as it's my first real big amp.


----------



## Tridacnid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *.Sup*


Almost as messy as a Singlepower on the inside









I keed, I keed, nice job man


True that.


----------



## darthspartan

This is kinda diy. These drivers were sold as a do it yourself kit back in 1964 ( Ya there 46 years old). These are by far the best studio monitors i have ever owned. Got them at a moving sale like 5 years ago they needed new cabs. They were called micro woofers by JBL you can tell once you have them on EQ the con e moves at least 1/2 an inch. Designed for 30watts at 16 ohm i push them with a 1500 dcm from carvin. So probably in the range of 200W per side.

Ive used smaart to measure them with my studio mic (measurement mic in the mail). There set flat to the room and sound great.


----------



## Sparhawk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *H3||scr3am*


now did you guys go with the beezar kit or the glassjaraudio kit?


I got most of my stuff from beezar, but not actually one of the kits. Essentially I got what a kit would contain though.









The tubes were matched(GE tubes from the looks of it). I'm actually starting to think that my headphones aren't balanced correctly, which is odd.







But seems to be the only thing that makes sense. lol, I even went and got my hearing tested to make sure I wasn't imagining things or going deaf on one side.

lol, maybe this is my subconscious persuading me to get some HD600s. I'm inclined to listen.


----------



## H3||scr3am

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sparhawk*


I got most of my stuff from beezar, but not actually one of the kits. Essentially I got what a kit would contain though.









The tubes were matched(GE tubes from the looks of it). I'm actually starting to think that my headphones aren't balanced correctly, which is odd.







But seems to be the only thing that makes sense. lol, I even went and got my hearing tested to make sure I wasn't imagining things or going deaf on one side.

lol, maybe this is my subconscious persuading me to get some HD600s. I'm inclined to listen.










heh, well you're not on a high end balanced XLR terminated setup yet, but generally the balance won't throw people off... and there was a beautiful set of 580s with 600 grills for sale int he audio section, but I think firestorm picked them up when they hit $150...


----------



## Firestorm252

Quote:



Originally Posted by *H3||scr3am*


heh, well you're not on a high end balanced XLR terminated setup yet, but generally the balance won't throw people off... and there was a beautiful set of 580s with 600 grills for sale int he audio section, but I think firestorm picked them up when they hit $150...


yup








although after the purchase, this starving student gets to eat ramen noodles til my next paycheck


----------



## Firestorm252

sorry for the doublepost but I never stuck my portable amps here.

the closed one's got a gain of 11 and is "standard" BOM from Tangent
the open one's the "final" version after my tweaking period: gain 5, OPA2227, and alternate poly caps in C2, and a dimmed LED (RLED change)
the mini^3's a vanilla version using the "high performance" variant.










and a DIY audio switch I made recently... it's pretty ghetto, but gets the job done. might need to look into a preamp or something


----------



## llama16

ow!! that looks great. I wish I could find those nice output decoupling caps as yours, I got these small polypropylene ones grrr.

I got my parts for the MINIÂ³ from AMBs shop already, they have been lying around here before my SSMH. I just need to double check my order at farnell.

I know this might be a pain, but by coincidence I have some serious thought of building a switchbox as well (without the passive preamp, because I don't know how the imput impedance would work then) and I had yours JUST IN MY MIND.
Please, do you got some pictures of the inside for me?
When I'm using 2 input RCAs does the grounds of those get connected to each other and the case? Or are they insulated, because I fear that the common ground would be interfere. For example: if I connect my SSMH and MINIÂ³ to it: the SSMH has a virtual ground of 19VDC if I recall, while MINIÂ³ has an active ground which changes with the signal (I'm not sure, I don't know alot about he theoretics), wouldn't those two (when both powered on and switching between them) interfere when the grounds are common on the INPUT jack (so the outputs of the amps), and getting some sort of crossfeed.

just some pics would suffice









Nice and neatly done
Dries


----------



## Danker16

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SUPER PISSED*


What kind of software is that I see on the monitor there?


its called PCDJ DEX


----------



## Firestorm252

yeah, no problem llama ^_^ b.
the top on the Hammond case slides right off so it's just a matter of unplugging. and thanks for the comments, I swore I spent an hour with a compass, my calculator, and some scratch paper figuring out the correct spacing

anyway, here's the low-res; you can click them for the full resolution.
_disclaimer: I'll be the first to say those aren't Litz braids. I just did a quick braid to keep the clutter down as much as possible.







_

white - left channel
white w/ red stripe - right channel
white w/ green and brown stripe - ground
*top-down*


*Backpanel* the 3.5mm jack is piggy-backed to the RCA jacks, not intended to use both 3.5mm and RCA simultaneously


*3PDT Switch* non-momentary, center off. top row wired to "B", middle wired to "I", bottom wired to "A"



I opted to switch the grounds as well. I guess my thoughts were closest analog to changing out the cables. made sure my multimeter didn't report continuity for the grounds
the end-panels are plastic so no common ground between the three channel groups there
the jacks _just_ clear the case walls so the grounds don't end up linked to one another, but the case is anodized so it _shouldn't_ be able to even if they do contact
the 3.5mm jack is isolated so that's why I let its mounting nut contact the RCA grounds at times
another thing is that this is just 22 AWG wire. I'd like lower to use it for speakers as well, but for swapping my soundcard's output to either amp or speakers it's enough.
currently I have my PC wired to the "I" so I can switch between my x530 speakers (A) when I'm not wanting to use headphones (which are B). but if you want to swap between two inputs it'll work fine as well.

edit-------------
yes, I know it's pretty ghetto; I went with the easiest way of preventing cross-channel problems. so sue me, I did it in two days so I didn't really plan it out like my normal projects


----------



## llama16

Very nice, kudos.
You answered about all my questions. I'll probably go with a 3input/2outputs, or 3/3. With non monetary switch, it's just means it's a switch that disconnects from the first channel and before connecting to a second, preventing the signals to be on together for a fraction of a second.

i've opted to do a litzebraid for an RCAto minijack interconnect but the tutorial on chimeralabs is confusing as the pictures don't correspond with the explenation. Do you have a good link to a nice tut?

As i'm quite the beginner, this might seem like a foolish question: I spotted you connected the grounds from the RCA to each other, and still running two wires from that mutual joint, how come?

I just had the exact same vision in my head, it has the same measurements as my SSMH and would fit perfectly under it









Dries


----------



## Firestorm252

oh woops. didn't realize the black 3.5mm jacks were hard to see.
the second wire on the ground runs to the "sleeve" lug on the 3.5mm jacks.

other than that, it's quite simply, just a connect the dots w/ a selector switch in the middle








I'm still learning things as I go as well, so you're not alone. My current "tinkering" project is getting a pair of old 80's stereo amps rebuilt, and I'm learning quite a bit as I go.


----------



## .Sup

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Firestorm252*


oh woops. didn't realize the black 3.5mm jacks were hard to see.
the second wire on the ground runs to the "sleeve" lug on the 3.5mm jacks.

other than that, it's quite simply, just a connect the dots w/ a selector switch in the middle








I'm still learning things as I go as well, so you're not alone. My current "tinkering" project is getting a pair of old 80's stereo amps rebuilt, and I'm learning quite a bit as I go.


Would you say an RCA switcher is too advanced for someone who hasn't even did an interconnect yet?


----------



## Firestorm252

Quote:



Originally Posted by *.Sup*


Would you say an RCA switcher is too advanced for someone *who hasn't even did an interconnect yet*?


I need to add that to my "to do" list








I'd wager that if you can wire up panel switches and panel jacks without starting a fire, then an RCA switch is a breeze. Just gotta keep an eye which signal is connecting where. I switched the tip and ring lugs on the 3.5mm jacks the first time around









I made it harder than necessary by choosing an enclosure that didn't give me much room for mistakes. well quite honestly the tolerance on the back is so tight I really _couldn't_ make a mistake.

edit----------
every other post for the past page is me XD
c'mon people! Audio DIY's a fun hobby


----------



## SkoalFineCut

Quoting from my other thread since I forgot all about this one:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SkoalFineCut*


After having one pair of headphones too many dragged off my desk by the cat here I decided I should go about acquiring a headphone stand. However, the venerable banana hook wouldn't do for me since I don't have desk space for it, and I have more than one headphone.

So a quick trip to Lowes for some supplies and an hour or so later I have this:



















1 - 2"x2"x8' treated wood
4 - screw in hooks
2 - brackets to mount to the base

I used a piece of scrap wood for the base, and some 3/8" auto hose to cover the hook's partially exposed threads.

It's definitely not the prettiest thing to look at, but for $15 it turned out nice.


----------



## .Sup

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Firestorm252*


I need to add that to my "to do" list








I'd wager that if you can wire up panel switches and panel jacks without starting a fire, then an RCA switch is a breeze. Just gotta keep an eye which signal is connecting where. I switched the tip and ring lugs on the 3.5mm jacks the first time around









I made it harder than necessary by choosing an enclosure that didn't give me much room for mistakes. well quite honestly the tolerance on the back is so tight I really _couldn't_ make a mistake.

edit----------
every other post for the past page is me XD
c'mon people! Audio DIY's a fun hobby










You haven't answered my question yet


----------



## Aick

Quote:



Originally Posted by *click here*


Dude, I think you got a defective monitor, something is wrong with your backlight, seems a little too bright.


----------



## Firestorm252

Quote:


Originally Posted by *.Sup* 
You haven't answered my question yet









then the answer'd be a no lol. I'd say that so long as you do the proper research and prep-work so that you know what you're getting into it's not too advanced.

besides, in my case I'll fill out the main parts of my beginner's audio setup, then start recabling things once I can't DIY anything else within reason and eliminate the "weak links" hooking them all together.

on a somewhat related note: where the heck do you guys get like the mogami and cardas cables for DIY projects?








I've seen people's posts over at Head-fi making their own cables and I dunno where they get their stuff! >.<

edit---------------
nevermind, took some time digging around head-fi to find a few places


----------



## mrfajita

Quote:


Originally Posted by *M1A1* 
And now for something completely different:









Completely DIY 2-way using a 3 inch Tang Band full-range driver (W3-1053SC) and an interesting woofer, the Tymphany LAT 250. The entire setup measures 21" high, 7" wide, and 11" deep; the TB sealed in 1 liter volume, the LAT occupies the other 14 liters and is vented at 80Hz. The front baffle is removable, held on by eight 1/4" stainless bolts and hurricane nuts, and was painted white but now is just wrapped in white speaker cloth. The rest of the cabinet only has a few coats of polyurethane.

Eventually the drivers will be individually amped when I get around to building a 4 or 6 channel amp, but for now they are run in parallel for a 4 ohm final impedance by a Dayton T-amp. I decided to shell out for a Behringer DCX2496 rather than buying the analog crossover components (which were more expensive than the DCX), so for now each driver is run fullrange







.

Sound still to be determined, but the Tang Band definitely sounds quite nice full range.




























Cheers,
Marty

PS. I'm looking at Class D or Tripath chip for the amplifier, but I'd love to hear some recommendations from the valve folks!

How do those LATs sound compared to a standard woofer?


----------



## M1A1

Reported T/S:
Effective 'piston' area (Sd) is 196 sq.cm., which is comparable to some 6.5" or 8" woofers.
Fs of 60Hz and Vas 8.9 liters
Dual 4-ohm voice coils
It's tough to say they are great compared to a normal woofer, and its tough to say they suck. IMO, because of the design they can't be used much above 500Hz, but they don't move enough air to be useful much below ~60Hz even in a 'large' ported box. The manufacturer's Vas is probably 25-50% low from what my test boxes told me.

The shape was enough reason for me to give them a try, but if I hadn't found the pair for under $50 I would not have considered them.


----------



## LukeG

Project that I have been working on for some time, but lost hope. Found the problem and now the system is working.

Basically its a visual representation of sound, using a strand of leds. Its limited to 40hz-250hz, with what I would call a visual roll off from there. (Gets dim and is led's are off at about 37hz, and 270hz.).

I thought it was cool, but only problem which I will have is to adjust is that light travels much faster than sound, and it is much more accurate them my speakers. I need to add a delay.

Uses a 12v source to light the leds, and a 2watt A class amp. And some tricks in between. Yes A class has distortion in most cases, but it does not matter here.

  
 



  <!-- AME - Windows Media -->


----------



## llama16

LukeG, amaing! did you design it yourself?
i've got some spare leds in the futur, if you got the design, plz do share it


----------



## .Sup

as always I messed up a bit but its very convenient to have ports so close. There are no usb hubs just cables going straight from the PC + XLR for mic.


----------



## cyberspyder

Some IC's from my DAC to my amp.

-Neutrik RCAs
-Nylon Multi-filament
-Mogami Star Quad Mic cord

I am *NEVER* getting Neutrik RCAs ever again....the ground solder contact felt like it was going to snap at any point, the cable opening was way too small (had to drill it out) and the insides of the barrel would catch on the nylon since it wasn't perfectly smooth.




























Brendan


----------



## UnAimed

This thread is so cool this really gets me interested in making myself one of these!


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UnAimed* 
This thread is so cool this really gets me interested in making myself one of these!

That was the sole purpose of making this thread! Glad its working, enjoy it


----------



## UnAimed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *.Sup* 
That was the sole purpose of making this thread! Glad its working, enjoy it

Are there any cool kits not too expensive but with one of those old bulb resistors they look so awesome!


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UnAimed* 
Are there any cool kits not too expensive but with one of those old bulb resistors they look so awesome!

What kind of kits would you like to assemble?


----------



## UnAimed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *.Sup* 
What kind of kits would you like to assemble?

To be honest I have no idea lol. Something involving sound and those bulb things. Sorry to be such a noob on this subject but what would you reccomend to start with?


----------



## cyberspyder

Bulb resister, like Nixie clocks?


----------



## UnAimed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyberspyder* 
Bulb resister, like Nixie clocks?

Yeah but dont they also use them in sound systems you can build? I heard they give better sound quality but I may be wrong.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UnAimed* 
Yeah but dont they also use them in sound systems you can build? I heard they give better sound quality but I may be wrong.











Those? They're referred to as tubes or valves









They don't necessarily give better sound, they can sound different to solid state amps though.


----------



## /Fail

They're tubes. Tubes vs. solid state is mainly personal preference. Tube amps will usually cost more. Tube amps match better with some headphones and are worse with others. They generally have a warmer and more colored sound.

And the Millet Starving Student is a great low cost beginner amp. Beezar sells kits.


----------



## Ckaz

Well I am building a subwoofer. I don't currently have the funds, but this is the potential outline.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=300-742

I am just thinking that 500w's may be a bit to much, so could you help me out?
They will be used with a pair of Studio Monitors (likely the KRK Rokit 5 G2's). This audio system will be used in my bedroom, albeit the bedroom is large. I would say about a small to medium size. I want to be able to rock my house, but I don't want it to overpower my speakers.


----------



## cyberspyder

You can adjust the gain and crossover point on the sub amp, 500W certainly isn't too much, I advise you to go with the BASH amps.


----------



## UnAimed

Tomorrow Il check out some amp kits and maybe one of those clocks they look really cool too. One question though, why do you all have these sharp spikes under the speakers?


----------



## cyberspyder

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UnAimed* 
Tomorrow Il check out some amp kits and maybe one of those clocks they look really cool too. One question though, why do you all have these sharp spikes under the speakers?

It's to decouple the speakers, in other words, isolate the speakers/surface from unwanted vibrations that can affect the sound.

Problem is that the above definition is what most people will give you, but that may not be entirely true:

http://www.audioholics.com/education...019s-the-point

Audio is pretty much YMMV sorta stuff, no one, one hundred percent correct answer.


----------



## UnAimed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *llama16* 
Finished my SSMH from Tomb a while back, am quite proud of it especially as I'm a beginning DIYer with limited budget, so here are the pics:


















I really like the looks of this. What is it?


----------



## UnAimed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyberspyder* 
It's to decouple the speakers, in other words, isolate the speakers/surface from unwanted vibrations that can affect the sound.

Problem is that the above definition is what most people will give you, but that may not be entirely true:

http://www.audioholics.com/education...019s-the-point

Audio is pretty much YMMV sorta stuff, no one, one hundred percent correct answer.

Thanks


----------



## Ckaz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyberspyder* 
You can adjust the gain and crossover point on the sub amp, 500W certainly isn't too much, I advise you to go with the BASH amps.

Thanks for the advice. The problem is, the Bash amps won't fit in the Dayton enclosure. I would have preferred the bash amp as well just based on reviews, but I don't have the skills to actually build an enclosure, hell, I'm trying to avoid having to make my own cutouts as well. From the reviews I have read, the Dayton amps have humming noises that can only be solved with a ground loop..


----------



## cyberspyder

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ckaz* 
Thanks for the advice. The problem is, the Bash amps won't fit in the Dayton enclosure. I would have preferred the bash amp as well just based on reviews, but I don't have the skills to actually build an enclosure, hell, I'm trying to avoid having to make my own cutouts as well. From the reviews I have read, the Dayton amps have humming noises that can only be solved with a ground loop..

http://www.rythmikaudio.com/amplifiers.html

They have some better amps, check it out.

Brendan

EDIT: OAudio has a few BASH amps, good quality stuff:

http://www.oaudio.com/500W_SUBAMP.html

Also check out Apex audio, but the first two suggestions are better.


----------



## cyberspyder

Something to consider, elemental designs makes some great subs, why not just buy an assembled one?

http://www.edesignaudio.com/index.php


----------



## Ckaz

thanks for the links. The reason I have decided not to simply buy a subwoofer is because they tend to be much more expensive, even when the equipment is much lower quality compared to that of the kit i listed earlier. I will look at some of those elemntal design ones though. Are there any you would recommend in particular?


----------



## LukeG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ckaz* 
thanks for the links. The reason I have decided not to simply buy a subwoofer is because they tend to be much more expensive, even when the equipment is much lower quality compared to that of the kit i listed earlier. I will look at some of those elemntal design ones though. Are there any you would recommend in particular?

If your not good at carpentry, and experienced, your DIY will most likely end up not great, and the same price would buy you better.

x2 on Elemental, you wont find much else for the money. All there subs are great







. There are other companies, but I have never been disappointing with ED products.

There heavy on bracing, and are designed well for there price.

Simple walls for a sub woofer wont cut it. My box has more wood bracing inside, than walls.


----------



## coppertop4646

Rewired my JVC RX900s, sleeved the cable with red cable sleeving, added new jacks at each end, and modded a 1/8" female adapter into the headphone cup so I can unplug them from my computer and plug in a different shorter cable if I decide to take them elsewhere


----------



## skkhai

Finished up my SSMH yesterday. This is going to be the start to a very expensive hobby...


----------



## llama16

hhaha yep, nice pics and nice job. I think I congratulated you already on head-fi, but whatever







those white leds look fancy.
Sorry about your wallet


----------



## UnAimed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *skkhai* 
Finished up my SSMH yesterday. This is going to be the start to a very expensive hobby...


















What does it do?


----------



## .Sup

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnAimed*


What does it do?


This is a tube headphone amplifier


----------



## Firestorm252

I'm jealous about you guys w/ that little "splooch" on top. my current tubes have them on the side haha. the lighting looks kind of funny.
maybe I'll stick the 12AE6's in, they've got it on the tops...









I need to finish the casework my minimax is still screwed down to a half-done chassis, but classes and work are kicking my butt


----------



## llama16

you can't tuberoll this amp. Make sure you don't try it.
This is solely meant for the 19J6. I'm planning on adapting the amp to 12AU7 like equalizer, but that'll take changing the plate resistors etc.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnAimed*


What does it do?


looks pretty!









It's a headphone amp.


----------



## BlackVenom

doesn't show them indepth but there's 2 2 1/2 or 3" Boston Acoustics in my ghetto made wood case and a 5" Boston sub below (not pictured).


----------



## UnAimed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
looks pretty!









It's a headphone amp.

I dont get it. you dont put the amp on your head does it emit sound??


----------



## skkhai

Thanks for the complements guys.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UnAimed* 
I dont get it. you dont put the amp on your head does it emit sound??

You plug in your headphones and a source to it and enjoy music.


----------



## ImmortalKenny

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UnAimed* 
I dont get it. you dont put the amp on your head does it emit sound??

You can put it on your head, and since the tubes emit light, it would make a great headpiece for raving.


----------



## UnAimed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *skkhai* 
Thanks for the complements guys.

You plug in your headphones and a source to it and enjoy music.









So its like a soundcard?


----------



## ImmortalKenny

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UnAimed* 
So its like a soundcard?

If you're being serious, no.

An amp takes your source, amplifies it, and improves the sound at the same time.

A DAC (digital-analog converter) converts a digital signal (music from a computer, CD player, mp3 player, etc.) and converts it to an analog signal which is what headphones and speakers use.

A sound card is a DAC.


----------



## UnAimed

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ImmortalKenny*


If you're being serious, no.

An amp takes your source, amplifies it, and improves the sound at the same time.

A DAC (digital-analog converter) converts a digital signal (music from a computer, CD player, mp3 player, etc.) and converts it to an analog signal which is what headphones and speakers use.

A sound card is a DAC.


I am being serious







I dont know anything about this subject sorry. So it improves the sound quality but is that not a speaker problem? If you want better sound you get better speakers right?

+1


----------



## LukeG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnAimed*


I am being serious







I dont know anything about this subject sorry. So it improves the sound quality but is that not a speaker problem? If you want better sound you get better speakers right?

+1


An amp is equally important as a speaker.

With the right source, amp, and EQ, you can make ****ty speakers sound good.


----------



## ImmortalKenny

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnAimed*


I am being serious







I dont know anything about this subject sorry. So it improves the sound quality but is that not a speaker problem? If you want better sound you get better speakers right?

+1


While the quality of speakers and headphones do matter to a degree, I think your source is more important. If the quality of your source sucks, your speakers/headphones will show it. If you amp a bad source, the source is going to sound even worst.

You can put a bow-tie on poop, but it's still poop.


----------



## Rebel4055




----------



## .Sup

DIY mounting bracket to hold the satellites. It even swivels horizontally.


----------



## cyberspyder

Still virtual at this point and without heatsink. Will house a Chipamp.




























Brendan


----------



## llama16

Very nice! I especially like the tripod concept, allthough I'd personally make the feet a little less tall.

What schematic will you be using?


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyberspyder* 
Still virtual at this point and without heatsink. Will house a Chipamp.




























Brendan

I saw this on that other site...


----------



## llama16

yeah me to







after I posted here, when I saw it on head

BTW: I'm building the MINIÂ³ atm. For the endpanels, how do i cut the holes best? Just with a simple drill press. Should I drill from inside or the other way.


----------



## Barry

What kind of software are you using???


----------



## cyberspyder

Solidworks

Quote:


Originally Posted by *llama16* 
yeah me to







after I posted here, when I saw it on head

BTW: I'm building the MINIÂ³ atm. For the endpanels, how do i cut the holes best? Just with a simple drill press. Should I drill from inside or the other way.

I'd drill it from the outside it, but be very careful you don't let the drill bit skip across the panel. I'd even go as far as masking tape the entire panel and marking the hole on the tape. With common drill bits there's a tendency to create a burr at the end of the hole. Easily taken care of with a file if it's on the inside, not so easy when you have to file the outside.


----------



## llama16

Yeah the skipping was the reason if I should drill from the inside out, but then again I had burr on the outside. Yeah a think layer of papertape should do the trick.
Thanks


----------



## .Sup

Shortened my cable for portable use with mp3 player and replaced plug. Its a very complicated connector to work with but I managed.


----------



## soloz2

that's interesting looking plug. Do you have a link?


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
that's interesting looking plug. Do you have a link?

The manufacturer is from Germany: http://viablue.de/com/

I have found a store in US for you that sells them, not sure if they have the cheapest prices though.

http://www.cryo-parts.com/miniplug.html


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *.Sup*


The manufacturer is from Germany: http://viablue.de/com/

I have found a store in US for you that sells them, not sure if they have the cheapest prices though.

http://www.cryo-parts.com/miniplug.html


thanks for the link, but as I suspected it appears to be a higher mass plug than I like to see. While Switchcraft and Canare make some very nice mini (3.5mm) plugs, my favorite is made by Neutrik. it is the lowest mass plug I've found, sounds just as good as plugs costing 10x+ as much.


----------



## cyberspyder

Will post the final product tomorrow.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyberspyder* 
A terrible, TERRIBLE idea:




























Took 3 hours from a piece of cardboard to that. And I need 4 times that amount. ***. I can't make a fist now my stupid olfa knife is uncomfortable as hell. My take on the expensive upside down 'U' stands.

Brendan


Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyberspyder* 
I like the Olfa since it's fairly flexible so I can do the curved cuts, but the handle is uncomfortable...oh well comfort sacrifices for a sense of fulfillment and audio.

An update:




























At this point, still got6 more shapes to cut out and finally glue together, but it's taking shape.

Brendan










Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyberspyder* 
An update...finally done cutting out all the pieces as well as glued them together (it's not glued together in the pics, have to wait till i get some natural light tomorrow):



















Brendan

PS: Made a small booboo, you guys will see tomorrow
















I'm a bit disappointed, but yeah, wait till tomorrow









Brendan


----------



## TUDJ

Nice design, it would look sweet using acrylic sheets instead of cardboard.


----------



## cyberspyder

It would've been nice but the risk of getting air bubbles trapped because the solvent didn't flow through properly is too great. Plus, I'd need a lot of acrylic sheets to complete the stand. I also thought of milling it out of delrin, but cost issue again. So I went for cardboard...cheap and plentiful


----------



## llama16

very orirginal designa nd it doesn't look to shabby at all, I remember these pics from head-fi as well


----------



## .Sup

looks like the Sieveking Sound Omega

http://www.sieveking-sound.de/equipment/detail/id/16

I've thinking for a while now of getting one


----------



## cyberspyder

I was too until I saw the price...I humbly name my creation CardOmega.


----------



## cyberspyder

And....the final product, behold the *CARDOMEGA*:














































You have no idea the amount of swearing, blood, sweat and time that I poured into this...and to make a little f***up at the end too! Apparently when I glued them together (laminated for the engineering guys) the pressure was uneven and made one side lower than the other...luckily only by several millimeters and doesn't affect function but sure works me up. However, still satisfied and now I have a place to put my 'phones







.

Brendan


----------



## llama16

Very nice indeed. I'll show you guys some pics of my selfmade 1-minute headstand as well, along with me new built MINIÂ³ soon.

This might be an overkill reaction, but that's just me







: Watch out for papercuts in those earcushins. I can imagine that occuring when you quickly pull them off, especially if it's thin leather. Maybe not, but it's always good to watch out


----------



## cyberspyder

Naw...not ever going to happen. I sanded down the sides with 150grit and now it's all soft and fuzzy. Not taking anychances LOL.


----------



## groundzero9

got some help building it from my brother, but it was my design


----------



## Kitarist

What kind of wood is that? It's beautiful!!!


----------



## groundzero9

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kitarist* 
What kind of wood is that? It's beautiful!!!

Padauk


----------



## nafljhy

seriously that is ridiculously beautiful!


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *groundzero9* 
















got some help building it from my brother, but it was my design

Very nice. Have you considered adding some spikes beneath it?


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *.Sup* 
Very nice. Have you considered adding some spikes beneath it?

Why spikes? Surely it'd be better to isolate it than to couple it.

Regarding the stand, very nice - I've been considering doing something similar for my desktop setup although I know it won't look anywhere near as sexy as that, excellent work


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Why spikes? Surely it'd be better to isolate it than to couple it.

Regarding the stand, very nice - I've been considering doing something similar for my desktop setup although I know it won't look anywhere near as sexy as that, excellent work









You can isolate it by placing cones upside-down pointing upwards.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Nice design, it would look sweet using acrylic sheets instead of cardboard.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *.Sup* 
looks like the Sieveking Sound Omega

http://www.sieveking-sound.de/equipment/detail/id/16

I've thinking for a while now of getting one


Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyberspyder* 
I was too until I saw the price...I humbly name my creation CardOmega.









I wouldn't mind one or two of those stands myself, but can't justify the expense. My dad has the proper tools to work with arcylic and I've been trying to get him to make me one...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *groundzero9* 
















got some help building it from my brother, but it was my design

Looks great! What are you using as a source, I don't see anything in your picture

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Why spikes? Surely it'd be better to isolate it than to couple it.

Regarding the stand, very nice - I've been considering doing something similar for my desktop setup although I know it won't look anywhere near as sexy as that, excellent work









I would think that isolating the amp from the stand would be more important. The stand itself looks pretty good and as long as the desk/table it's on isn't wobbly it should be fine.


----------



## groundzero9

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
I wouldn't mind one or two of those stands myself, but can't justify the expense. My dad has the proper tools to work with arcylic and I've been trying to get him to make me one...

Looks great! What are you using as a source, I don't see anything in your picture

I would think that isolating the amp from the stand would be more important. The stand itself looks pretty good and as long as the desk/table it's on isn't wobbly it should be fine.

Using the RCA on my soundcard as a source atm. Once my wallet recovers from the amp, I'll be putting a DAC where the remotes are







I've been looking at the PS Audio DLIII but am still undecided.

What did you guys mean by isolating it? The amp has rubber on the bottom of the feet. Would that not isolate it?


----------



## llama16

*Hey everyone!*

And finally my Klipsch Image S4 (my first real IEMs) got delivered today. They sound pretty good, allthough the bass is a little overpowered which makes the mid and highs sound a little as if they're on the background, but nothing the rockbox equalizer can't fix.










I finished my MINIÂ³ (high performance) a couple of weeks ago, but only got it cased up a little more then a week ago.

Don't mind the interconnect, it's one I made from scratch very quickly and for testing purpose, but I have not yet had the chance to replace it. While I recently topped up my paypal account (yet again!!!), the credit still has to appear. But hopefully I can place my planned order at Qables tomorrow, as I really want to start making those silver LODs and complete this rig.:atsmile:

Before the Klipsch arrived, I used this rig mostly with my SR80i. I'm very proud of this amazing sounding combination, allthough they don't come close to my (still modest) home-rig, they sound very very well


















IMPORTANT: Excuse my bad photographs. I have no decent camera and am using a very old 5MP kodak easyshare pocketcamera. I'm looking to buy the D5000 one day and treat myself yet another expensive hobby.

*Dries*


----------



## sugiik

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyberspyder* 
And....the final product, behold the *CARDOMEGA*:

You have no idea the amount of swearing, blood, sweat and time that I poured into this...and to make a little f***up at the end too! Apparently when I glued them together (laminated for the engineering guys) the pressure was uneven and made one side lower than the other...luckily only by several millimeters and doesn't affect function but sure works me up. However, still satisfied and now I have a place to put my 'phones







.

Brendan









wowww nice!!
can u tell me what tools/tutor u do that ? >_<
kinda want to have it and try out make it too...


----------



## sorage

Post deleted, sorry !


----------



## Html33

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sorage* 









SR6003 + Klipsch all around! front RF-62 center RC-52 surr RS-42 Sub RW12D

For when one xbox just isin't enough.


----------



## sorage

When one of them has been banned lol


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sorage* 









SR6003 + Klipsch all around! front RF-62 center RC-52 surr RS-42 Sub RW12D

Read the topic title again


----------



## sorage

Post edited sorry again!


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sorage* 
Post edited sorry again!

no problem sorage. Post your personal setup here: http://www.overclock.net/sound-cards...io-set-up.html


----------



## lozanoa11




----------



## lozanoa11

double post


----------



## soloz2

looks good! those plugs look huge compared to the cable though


----------



## lozanoa11

I wanted thin and flexible, I could have used a smaller plug but I'm in love with the viablue plugs.


----------



## llama16

mmm, viablue, I GOT to get me some of those allthough I can't yet justify the price. I've got some first attempts at cables myself, i'll see if I can post them later today


----------



## lozanoa11

They are only $10 each here: http://www.av-outlet.com/


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lozanoa11* 
They are only $10 each here: http://www.av-outlet.com/

lol, only $10 The neutrik minis cost 1/10th the price and probably sound better due to being much lower mass.


----------



## M1A1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
lol, only $10 The neutrik minis cost 1/10th the price and probably sound better due to being much lower mass.

Shhh, you'll ruin the psychoacoustics of overpaying for 'quality audiophile connectors.'


----------



## lozanoa11

I'll be honest and say I bought them for aesthetics only. I going to recable my grados as soon as the wire shows up for the same reason. Well I may put jacks in the cups so I can change out cables if I want.


----------



## llama16

grr that's my point, THEY'RE 10 EACH!

I'm in my last year of highschool and for the past 2 years I've been doing saturdays work just so I can do DIY audio. To avoid moments like 'I'm gonna place this 100dollar order for cablestuff, but I don't got the money'. Still 10 for a plug is a tad to much, it's maybe worth the aestethics and quality but not the quality alone.


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
lol, only $10 The neutrik minis cost 1/10th the price and probably sound better due to being much lower mass.

These have the best fit when plugged in a device I have ever used. I'm sure Neutriks are good but these are exceptional but very hard to work with. Requires calm nerves if you're working with a thicker cable.


----------



## lozanoa11

Quote:


Originally Posted by *.Sup* 
These have the best fit when plugged in a device I have ever used. I'm sure Neutriks are good but these are exceptional but very hard to work with. Requires calm nerves if you're working with a thicker cable.

I noticed this too. They are very tight especially in my amp. They also have two inserts in the end of the plug for smaller or larger wires. It is a quality piece and yes it may be over priced but I still like them.


----------



## lozanoa11

Finally finished my recable on my Grado's. I installed mono jacks inside the cups incase I ever want different cables. It is Blue Mogami with Carbon Techflex over it with Via blue plugs. I know there are some flaws in it but It looks nice and is the length I want!


----------



## jcrew3002

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lunartuna* 
PRIME!!!



you look like the guy in .SUP avatar picture!


----------



## doat

forgive my audio noobness but what are those things? what do they do for your headphones or audio?


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *doat*


forgive my audio noobness but what are those things? what do they do for your headphones or audio?


which _things_?


----------



## doat

The little rectangle boxes with a switch and headphone jack and the boxes with a knob and a bulb like thing on top.








and this


----------



## TUDJ

In the top pic;

that's a headphone amplifier, I think it has an amplifier and power supply in separate units, the 'bulbs' are tubes (or valves) and are used for amplifying the signal.

The thing in the bottom pic is also a headphone amp but it's portable and uses a chip instead of valves for amplification.

Headphone amps are used when the source isn't able to provide enough power to the headphones' drivers in order for them to sound their best.


----------



## doat

Ah, i see thanks. +rep but how would headphones not get enough power and how would you know you need an amp?


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *doat*


Ah, i see thanks. +rep but how would headphones not get enough power and how would you know you need an amp?


Some headphones (usually the more expensive ones) have drivers that need a higher amount of current to be able to produce certain frequencies, this is usually depicted by their Ohms rating (my headphones for eg have 300 Ohms resistance) which is quite high. The general rule is that anything over 150 Ohms should be powered by a headphone amplifier but there are variations to this rule.

If you have a reasonably good pair of headphones ($200+) and you are running them from onboard sound or a soundcard it is probable that you would benefit from a headphone amplifier but won't be true in every case.


----------



## doat

Well i plan on buying some JVC ha-rx900s soon and modifying them with the sound dampener and i assume since they are $50 i won't need an amp lol.


----------



## bobfig

hmm im surprised i haven't posted my stuff here yet. basically i have re-cabled my hd555's(don't use them any more), built a Millett starving student headphone amp, made some book shelf speakers, and finely a home sub i use for my small bedroom (may redo it later).

Pic is a few years old so its not that bad now but you get the idea.


----------



## doat

mmmm cheetos


----------



## Firestorm252

finished a Grubdac for my laptop the other night... don't mind the Sound Blaster or Mini^3 in the background... 
grr, this point and shoot always likes giving me noisy close-range photos -_-

[click for full resolution]


*got a lamp, room light sucks hahaha*


----------



## .Sup

Looks well assembled firestorm, congratz. Is this your first build?


----------



## llama16

I think that's a MINIÂ³ connectd to the DAC. So I don't think it's his first build


----------



## .Sup

Quote:



Originally Posted by *llama16*


I think that's a MINIÂ³ connectd to the DAC. So I don't think it's his first build










maybe MisterX built it for him


----------



## cyberspyder

My latest recable, a pair of vintage Zenith 839-50's:























































Entirely sleeved in nylon, made a new strain relief, put on a pair of modded AKG pads, damped the insides a bit with some blue tak (didn't have dynamat handy). Used my staple: Mogami 2893.

Brendan


----------



## llama16

very clean recabling


----------



## lozanoa11

Ok this is pretty bad not gunna lie. But what ever It sounds good, I'll fix it later.


----------



## llama16

Nope it's pretty good








I personally would have put the sleeving over the 3 cables alltogether because now it's kinda bulky.

Still it's quite an achievement. I remember soldering those small dock pins without bending them too much and thus snapping them of, is a pretty hard job to do.

I hope you've got a strain relief on that dock connector, else bad things WILL happen. if you don't, just shoot some hot glue in that hole and that should do the trick.


----------



## lozanoa11

I wanted to try something different. The wire I used was Silver and did not look as good with with sleeving over all of them. So it was bare or this. I made this before and it looks good like that but the wire is different color.


----------



## Firestorm252

Quote:



Originally Posted by *.Sup*


Looks well assembled firestorm, congratz. Is this your first build?


thanks









no it's not quite my first build (see below). although it is my first mainly SMD build.

a couple CMOYs sitting around - mainly component experiments from _before_ I found out about socketing and breadboards.
the mini^3 in the pic is one of mine - currently my main portable amp
a Minimax I finished a few months ago - current desktop amp
I've got another grub in progress awaiting backorder parts from Mouser


----------



## meticadpa

Going to be building some speaker stands soon so the tweeters are at ear level (will need to be around 4 inches high).

Probably out of MDF or something since I'm poor.


----------



## cyberspyder

One I finished a while back, forgot I had them on my camera. DT880, again, with some Mogami. If you've ever worked on beyers you'll often find that the stock strain reliefs are, well, TINY. I had to fabricate new ones from a mixture of heatshrink, glue and zipties of various forms. Beyerdynamic also does something special...their main cable entry relief is rectangular. Hmmm....I had to find a way to compromise. Since my cables are round, I'd need to enlarge the hole (by drilling/reaming it out) so it'll fit my cable. But that'll still leave a large chunk of the rectangular cutout visible, so I had to take it a step further, and I believe this is the best compromise. Sucks, but hey, what can you do.































































Brendan


----------



## cyberspyder

Actually, in hindsight, I should've purchased some rubber grommets at Home Depot (or similar) as that'll mask the rectangular portions. Hindsight is always 20/20...


----------



## .Sup

good stuff cyber. Considered making dual entry?


----------



## soloz2

Looks great, DT880's really do deserve a better cable though ;-).


----------



## cyberspyder

Guy said he hates boutique cables, so I used Mogami on it. He also wanted single entry, so no double entry.

Brendan


----------



## Firestorm252

wow looks great









hopefully my attempts at recabling will turn out even half as well. but my audio forays will have to wait... I just dropped a load of cash on textbooks, bills, and car. 
My bank account keeps asking me about the truck that just hit it <.<


----------



## pbasil1

You never said no car-fi...

Box is 5.2 cu/ft total. 2.0 cu/ft per sub corrected, tuned at 33hz. Amp is 950wrms tested. To say it "pounds" is an understatement!

The subs and amp again...









Build in progress...









Slot ports put in...


















Face of the box all cut out...









Mounted and looking clean!!









In the trunk... barely.









Some dynamat on trunk lid, but notice i did fill all the supports with expanding foam! Rock solid! Need more dynamat though ($$$)


----------



## bobfig

^^^^ dude look into seconed skin. Its the best mat out there. Nice build btw. Wish i could afford those let alne fit them in my truck.


----------



## pbasil1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bobfig*


^^^^ dude look into seconed skin. Its the best mat out there. Nice build btw. Wish i could afford those let alne fit them in my truck.


I dont really like second skin. That dynomat has been covered by many layers of other brand materials. i added 1 layer of eDead (elemental Designs) And then a layer of RAAM Mat. By far the RAAMmat is the best ive ever seen for the price. Dynamat truely is the best performer, but not worth the cost by a long shot. Second skin as a pretty good value, but i have found that Raammat performs truely about the same as dynamat, but a fraction the cost. I got 60 sq/ft for $120 shipped.


----------



## .Sup

Well I did the HD555 foam mod like described here:

  
 You Tube  



 
 although not sure why the guy used screwdriver after removing the screws to remove the driver as it just pops out by itself after the screws are removed.

Anyway I noticed slightly lesser bas impact but the cans have become more transparent compared to the veil they had before. Literally like removing bed sheets from the tweeter of a speaker. Quite an improvement and its really to do in matter of minutes. The mod has taken the HD555 on another level, on the HD595 level to be exact and its completely reversible. Recommended.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *.Sup*


Anyway I noticed slightly lesser bas impact but the cans have become more transparent compared to the veil they had before. Literally like removing bed sheets from the tweeter of a speaker. Quite an improvement and its really to do in matter of minutes. The mod has taken the HD555 on another level, on the HD595 level to be exact and its completely reversible. Recommended.


I think I must be the only person who thought the mod makes the HD555 sound much worse










I found the treble to be far too "bright" with the foam removed.


----------



## .Sup

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tUDJ*


I think I must be the only person who thought the mod makes the HD555 sound much worse









I found the treble to be far too "bright" with the foam removed.


They do become bright but only with bright sources. Not veiled anymore and become much more beneficial for movies.


----------



## biatchi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *.Sup* 
Well I did the HD555 foam mod like described here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PvQ8PzBrHXE although not sure why the guy used screwdriver after removing the screws to remove the driver as it just pops out by itself after the screws are removed.

Anyway I noticed slightly lesser bas impact but the cans have become more transparent compared to the veil they had before. Literally like removing bed sheets from the tweeter of a speaker. Quite an improvement and its really to do in matter of minutes. The mod has taken the HD555 on another level, on the HD595 level to be exact and its completely reversible. Recommended.

Now you need to cut that crappy plastic out


----------



## doat

My JVC HA-RX900s came in today, how do i break them in? I plan on doing the mod to get better noise cancellation and such. They are much better than my creative HS-900s comfort wise but the sound quality is just not as good but not much of a compromise.


----------



## FearSC549

New Setup, Dayton B652 bookshelves(some $25 bookshelves that actually sounds very decent) and a subwoofer I made from 3 x Dahlquist/Bravox 6.5" subwoofer(Scan Speak level distortion at 1/25th of the price) powered by a 115W Foster plate amp. My receiver is a Pioneer VSX-918-K.


----------



## computeruler

I built them myself.


----------



## .Sup

a pair of balanced to unbalanced interconnects



made from high quality parts:
Canare Star Quad L-4E6S
Neutrik XLR plugs
ViaBlue RCA plugs
Cardas silver eutectic solder

This is my 1st. interconnect ever made btw


----------



## TUDJ

Looks great, nice job


----------



## .Sup

thanks tudj


----------



## Mootsfox

Where do you source your parts?


----------



## FearSC549

Quote:



Originally Posted by *computeruler*


















I built them myself.


Move your speakers away from the wall, you're partially horn loading them by placing them at the corners.


----------



## IzninjaFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyberspyder* 
My latest recable, a pair of vintage *Zenith 839-50*'s:

/snip

Wow those are some nice looking headphones!


----------



## supra_rz

Here is mine http://www.overclock.net/10977997-post37.html


----------



## groundzero9

Been workin on my GR-Research V-2s for about three weeks now. I can't wait till they are done
































Full build here.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *groundzero9* 
Been workin on my GR-Research V-2s for about three weeks now. I can't wait till they are done
































Full build here.

Looks good!


----------



## PhaedraCorruption




----------



## .Sup

I just made a cable that makes connection between an MP3 player with a minijack output and an amp with balanced input possible. I'm very happy with the result.



(click on the image for more photos)


----------



## TUDJ

Nice work, it looks great


----------



## .Sup

Thanks tudj. I was working on it for two hours









btw congrats on the mod status, just noticed this earlier today


----------



## .Sup

I have successfully completed my third cable. For connecting HE-4 to a speaker amp


----------



## Floy

Neutrik XLR4 connector, excellent choice. Neutrik's should be the only connectors on the market.


----------



## Firestorm252

I need to start making cables, it looks like it'd be fun. Besides, I'd get something to do that doesn't involve studying.

anyways...
Got bored, strapped that switch I made to a scope in class and confirmed what my ears have been nagging me: something's coloring the sound.
In response, I whipped up a relay-based input/output selector in a java circuit sim (SPICE app wasn't handy at the time).










I've already got the parts sort of lying around except for a rotary or two, just need some time to breadboard it and plan out the perfboard

edit------------
still think that pseudo-schematic view looks weird


----------



## Mr. Davis

I finally got around to posting some pictures of the MOSFET MAX I finished not to long ago. Its wearing Rust-Oleum aged copper paint and has Elna RFS Silmic II caps in the signal path. The tubes are 12FM6. It also has an on board grubDAC. Sounds great with AKG K702's.


----------



## TUDJ

Looks fantastic Mr.Davis!


----------



## llama16

Very nicely done.
I'm itching to start on a Minimax myself, but school won't let me :S


----------



## Skoobs

i have done, as a hobby, a lot of custom ipod LOD cables if anyone is interested (sold like 10 on head-fi)

LOD = line out device, usually ipod dock -> 3.5mm but also ipod dock -> RCA

it is purely for sending pure signal in case you a plugging an ipod into a dedicated amp. if i remember, i will post some pics here.


----------



## llama16

Yeah I've made some of those as well. I made this tiny one that I use daily on my portable hifi-set, pure braided silver baby







.

Yeah post some pics, we'd love to see others work.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skoobs;13617034*
> i have done, as a hobby, a lot of custom ipod LOD cables if anyone is interested (sold like 10 on head-fi)
> 
> LOD = line out device, usually ipod dock -> 3.5mm but also ipod dock -> RCA
> 
> it is purely for sending pure signal in case you a plugging an ipod into a dedicated amp. if i remember, i will post some pics here.


Please post some pics. But this isn't the place to sell.


----------



## Greg121986

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

DH Labs Silver Sonic BL-1 interconnect wire
Cardas silver plated RCA connectors
Cardas silver lead-free solder

My first DIY cable. I really enjoyed making these. I don't have a use for them right now so I'll likely get rid of them and make something new when I need more cables!


----------



## soloz2

Cardas SLVR plugs are pretty nice. I like SRCA better though! I use the Cardas quad solder... I'm not afraid of some lead lol.

Cardas makes some nice stuff... Being a vendor is even nicer


----------



## Spooony

How you guys like my cage


----------



## Mckayman

Nice cage whats your setup/tear down time?


----------



## Greg121986

I was wandering around Home Depot today and found this...
Corner Shelf $7.47

So I thought to myself... headphone hanger! After cutting and drilling for a little while, I came up with this. It was actually planned for a shelf in my room that matches the "honey" color, but I thought it turned out so well I wanted to put it on my PC desk. I will make another one that is a darker color to match my desk.


----------



## Draygonn

Using a variation of the Faust Mod I transformed $67 Fostex T40RPs into world class phones. These orthodynamics are simply amazing.

Orthodynamic DIY contest:
http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/diy-orthodynamic-headphone-measurements-and-contest

Fostex Ortho DIY Thread:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/452404/just-listened-to-some-fostex-t50rps-today-wow

View attachment 227658
View attachment 227659
View attachment 227660
View attachment 227661
View attachment 227662


----------



## Firestorm252

Neutrino's got a pair of modified T50's that I've listened to. Really like power, those things, my minimax goes further down the dial with those than anything else I've used before.

Can't get over the weird mid-range hump on them though. I mean, a cappella vocals and rhythm acoustic sounds great in ways I can't explain (blues anyone?), but every other genre just sounds off to me.

anyway, from my post in the speaker thread:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Firestorm252;14950653*
> update on mine when you get the chance.
> I got bored this summer and ventured into first-time speaker DIY with a completely unnecessary 2.1 upgrade. For a first-time project, it turned out fairly well.
> 
> Disclaimer:
> yes, they probably weren't meant for nearfield. But according to this post by the guy who designed them, they seem to fare well. And I can't complain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> L/Rs - Sealed Tritrix
> Sub - Dayton DCS205-4, custom box
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the clear-coat smear on the case on the left? I didn't know it was there til I saw this photo...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, need to redo the faux-wood vinyl laminate on the left speaker
> 
> 
> 
> Couldn't find a pre-made sub that would fit down there. So I made one.
> Also, disregard my knee
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, now the problem is that I found out doing this is fun. between my headphones and now this, my wallet sees nothing but dark days ahead


you can also see my newer relay-based selector switch just under the monitor.


----------



## Skoobs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unl3a5h3d;7264234*
> Would you be willing to make a fellow OCN'er one


i need to find a ra ipod out to ra aux. but im not sure i trust my own craftsmanship.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *getllamasfast;7377941*
> Just finished soldering my first cmoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cmoy + my bros ATH-ES7s


my #1 favorite sounding headphones!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1A1;8138181*
> And now for something completely different:


interested in how the crazy woofer sounds... ive seen them but never seen any reviews on them. they look super awesome, and i would love to use them in my next speaker build if they sound good.


----------



## Skoobs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberspyder;10375719*
> One I finished a while back, forgot I had them on my camera. DT880, again, with some Mogami. If you've ever worked on beyers you'll often find that the stock strain reliefs are, well, TINY. I had to fabricate new ones from a mixture of heatshrink, glue and zipties of various forms. Beyerdynamic also does something special...their main cable entry relief is rectangular. Hmmm....I had to find a way to compromise. Since my cables are round, I'd need to enlarge the hole (by drilling/reaming it out) so it'll fit my cable. But that'll still leave a large chunk of the rectangular cutout visible, so I had to take it a step further, and I believe this is the best compromise. Sucks, but hey, what can you do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brendan


what sleeving is that? it is sex.


----------



## Firestorm252

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skoobs;14951210*
> what sleeving is that? it is sex.


I'm guessing braided nylon. I've used it once before (like a 2ft segment) and it's great stuff if it's gonna be visible.

edit

I dunno about all the nifty properties people read about it. I only used it to spruce up a visible serial interface cable for a client haha


----------



## bobfig

going to have a fun little project going on.

All x2

Aurasound NS3-193-8A










Aurasound NT1-204-8D


----------



## llama16

Nice I'm building some speakers myself:
http://www.overclock.net/home-audio/1115064-project-low-budget-2-way-standing.html

That seems to be a simple set of filters. What order are they? Care to share the schematic


----------



## y2jrock60

This reply has nothing to do with your speakers.

Your mouse pad is awesome. I've always had a problem positioning my mouse pad to my liking while gaming. That mouse pad would solve my problem. Where would one find such a mouse pad and how much would it cost?


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llama16;15035563*
> Nice I'm building some speakers myself:
> http://www.overclock.net/home-audio/1115064-project-low-budget-2-way-standing.html
> 
> That seems to be a simple set of filters. What order are they? Care to share the schematic


well first of all im not 100% sure if im just going to use the full range woofer in a ported box or add a tweeter yet. so i may sway ether way. if i use the tweeter they will be crossed at a 3800hz with a linkwitz-raley crossover. all these are going to be for is the tv. im still figuring out the boxes but they look like they're going to be like 10h x 5w x 6d withe a 1" port 4.5" long.


----------



## llama16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig;15038315*
> well first of all im not 100% sure if im just going to use the full range woofer in a ported box or add a tweeter yet. so i may sway ether way. if i use the tweeter they will be crossed at a 3800hz with a linkwitz-raley crossover. all these are going to be for is the tv. im still figuring out the boxes but they look like they're going to be like 10h x 5w x 6d withe a 1" port 4.5" long.


Yeah looks great. I just noticed that they are quiet small (when you said 1" port). Cool project. You should open another thread and let us know how it goes.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llama16;15039220*
> Yeah looks great. I just noticed that they are quiet small (when you said 1" port). Cool project. You should open another thread and let us know how it goes.


idk... when i build i don't like stopping for pictures. this build seems like its going to be done pretty fast but i guess ill make one.

oo and these were done a little over a year ago with the peerless 830656 woofers and the dayton tweeter. the whole out side is done up in truck bed liner in a can from the auto parts store. gives it a nice 320 grit sand paper feel and also attracts a lot of "stuff". the other side is a mirror image.


----------



## bobfig

http://www.overclock.net/home-audio/1124760-project-home-built-tv-speakers.html

build log for my project


----------



## mrsmiles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig;15046798*
> http://www.overclock.net/home-audio/1124760-project-home-built-tv-speakers.html
> 
> build log for my project


sounds interesting im gonna sub for now


----------



## skkhai

Denon D2000 recabled with Mogami 2534 and terminated with a slim Viablue 3.5mm plug. Heatshrinking from the split up is a bit microphonic, but they rarely ever touch each other when the headphones are on.


----------



## nub

edit: delete


----------



## Danker16




----------



## bobfig

^^^awesome, how are they? i may want some


----------



## Danker16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig;15383265*
> ^^^awesome, how are they? i may want some


LOL, if I remember correctly you made this single recommendation and I went with it







. They are awesome( little flabby bass, the mids and highs are so good!) I don't regret it one bit. So much better then the Polks RT3i ( or w.e) and Energy CB20 I tested at Best buy!

plus it was a hands on project..loads of fun on the first try since it didn't work X_X!.


----------



## bobfig

ya i recommended them. i have used the tweeters that are on them but never that woofer. oo and one thing i notice is that your crossover is a little wrong. the black spool inducer should be standing up not on its side. having it the way it is now can induce cross talk between the 2 channels.


----------



## Danker16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig;15385503*
> ya i recommended them. i have used the tweeters that are on them but never that woofer. oo and one thing i notice is that your crossover is a little wrong. the black spool inducer should be standing up not on its side. having it the way it is now can induce cross talk between the 2 channels.


NOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! DONT TELL ME I DID IT WRONG!!!!

how would I know it doesn't sound like its supposed to?

what is "Cross talk"?

(F***! if I have to fix it the caulk on the woofers makes it impossible to get it out! )


----------



## bobfig

ok im wrong its not cross talk it changes the inucence and would change the cross over point.

http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/coils.htm

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/119633-inductor-placement-xover.html


----------



## Danker16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig;15385689*
> ok im wrong its not cross talk it changes the inucence and would change the cross over point.
> 
> http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/coils.htm
> 
> http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/119633-inductor-placement-xover.html


I guess its a Must, at the very bottom of the page some dude makes a comment stating that the pronounced effect is actually "cross talk". so you were right.

Time to rip em open!

ps. doing it now and woofers are glued







X_X

edit : yeah im going to have to leave it, only way would be to pry it and destroy the cabinet... I am sadface ( an idiet







).


----------



## Mygaffer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danker16;15385891*
> I guess its a Must, at the very bottom of the page some dude makes a comment stating that the pronounced effect is actually "cross talk". so you were right.
> 
> Time to rip em open!
> 
> ps. doing it now and woofers are glued
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> X_X
> 
> edit : yeah im going to have to leave it, only way would be to pry it and destroy the cabinet... I am sadface ( an idiet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


How much did they cost you? There are typically solvents you can find to dissolve various glues, I am sure you can find one for whatever you used.


----------



## jacobthellamer

I have plenty of finished DIY audio projects lying a round, I might post some up later. This is what I have been working on lately;

Finally got my first M3A finished and working - Time to case it up. This amp sounds very nice.

















Second one built and tested with +- 10V supply, will order a 500VA former, a rectifier and 4 10000uF caps this weekend







.

























I had my first attempt at the starving student a couple of weeks ago, I went a bit overboard with the power supply







. I designed a acrylic case, it is on it's way from the laser cutters. The amp sounds really good, I worked the design to around some pentodes I have easy access too







I still need to spray the heat-sink as it is a little scratched up from the hole saw.

































Put together a another GrubDAC and Starving Student, all tested and working. I will order a suitable power supply this weekend.


----------



## mrsmiles

very nice, where did you order the parts from for the starving student? i have a pair of 12au7's I'd like to use for a starving student build.


----------



## jacobthellamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrsmiles;15445492*
> very nice, where did you order the parts from for the starving student? i have a pair of 12au7's I'd like to use for a starving student build.


I picked up most of the parts from a local electronics surplus store. The rest was from Element 14.


----------



## mrsmiles

any helpful tips while building?


----------



## jacobthellamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrsmiles;15451244*
> any helpful tips while building?


You may run into trouble with the 12au7's as a 19V heater is needed to bias the mosfets. I think their are schematics around using resisters to make up the difference, these will have to be of the 5 watt variety and will need cooling.

I think using a board similar to the one I used in my second attempt will give you better results.


----------



## mrsmiles

well i recabled my akg k701's with some mogami cable and DHC 1/4" plug, with some black sleeve.

just to note i did the recable because i found the stock cable fairly crappy and way to long for me, went into this not expecting any sound/signature changes, which so far i havent noticed any.

as another note, this is my first re-cable so it took me much longer then i wanted it to take.


----------



## pangolinman

Been looking to upgrade my portable amp from an E5, any DIY kits out there I could try? It would be my first build, so preferably something simple.
As for budget, itd be great to keep it under $100.


----------



## Draygonn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pangolinman*
> 
> Been looking to upgrade my portable amp from an E5, any DIY kits out there I could try? It would be my first build, so preferably something simple.
> As for budget, itd be great to keep it under $100.


Try one of the CMOY builds. They make for a simple DIY project well under $100.


----------



## pangolinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Draygonn*
> 
> Try one of the CMOY builds. They make for a simple DIY project well under $100.


You mean one like this?

You think the quality will be noticeably better than an E5?

Also, would a Mini3 be build-able by a novice?


----------



## skkhai

The Mini3 has surface mount components that are a little bit harder to solder for a beginner, but not too difficult to do.

Have you looked into the O2 (Objective 2) amp by NwAvGuy? It's relatively new to the DIY scene but the designer provides plenty of documentation in his blog and it looks promising. All components are through-hole and would be relatively easy for a beginner to assemble. I'm building one as soon my PCB shows up.


----------



## iJustin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkhai*
> 
> The Mini3 has surface mount components that are a little bit harder to solder for a beginner, but not too difficult to do.
> Have you looked into the O2 (Objective 2) amp by NwAvGuy? It's relatively new to the DIY scene but the designer provides plenty of documentation in his blog and it looks promising. All components are through-hole and would be relatively easy for a beginner to assemble. I'm building one as soon my PCB shows up.


The O2 has many great reviews. I'm getting ready to buy parts for it as well.


----------



## pangolinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkhai*
> 
> The Mini3 has surface mount components that are a little bit harder to solder for a beginner, but not too difficult to do.
> Have you looked into the O2 (Objective 2) amp by NwAvGuy? It's relatively new to the DIY scene but the designer provides plenty of documentation in his blog and it looks promising. All components are through-hole and would be relatively easy for a beginner to assemble. I'm building one as soon my PCB shows up.


Looks like exactly what i was looking for. Cheap, but high quality. +Rep
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iJustin*
> 
> The O2 has many great reviews. I'm getting ready to buy parts for it as well.


Yeah, the reviews all seem to really like it.

EDIT:

On the other hand, seeing as this would be my first DIY project, and there arent step by step instructions, I think it would probably be in my best interests to pick up a preassembled cmoy BB or E11


----------



## iJustin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pangolinman*
> 
> Looks like exactly what i was looking for. Cheap, but high quality. +Rep
> Yeah, the reviews all seem to really like it.
> EDIT:
> On the other hand, seeing as this would be my first DIY project, and there arent step by step instructions, I think it would probably be in my best interests to pick up a preassembled cmoy BB or E11


Its honestly going to my first DIY project as well. Even though there are a lot of components it really shouldn't be that hard. Just make sure you know what goes where and solder.


----------



## skkhai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pangolinman*
> 
> On the other hand, seeing as this would be my first DIY project, and there arent step by step instructions, I think it would probably be in my best interests to pick up a preassembled cmoy BB or E11


If you change your mind, most DIYs aren't too bad at all. Their PCBs are usually marked with reference labels that correspond to the references in their respective BOM (bill of materials). With the O2, the PCB even shows the polarity of diodes and capacitors. Just match parts from the BOM with the PCB and solder. Start with the shortest components first, like the resistors, diodes, and sockets, then work your way up to caps, jacks, etc...


----------



## groundzero9

GR-Research A/V 2s, tiger maple veneer with padauk face plates.


----------



## Draygonn




----------



## pangolinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Draygonn*


About time









How was the building process? Did you have prior experience?


----------



## Draygonn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pangolinman*
> 
> About time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How was the building process? Did you have prior experience?


Haha, it has taken forever. I kept breaking/losing parts and had to get replacements. I hadn't soldered anything since I was a kid. The build process is straightforward and laid out step by step. 90% is trimming wires and soldering. Took maybe 8-9 hours total. I'll do the speedball upgrade next month.


----------



## mikeaj

Actually, this was built a couple months ago, but...here's my Objective2 (O2) headphone amplifier. It's a pretty easy build as there's no wires to route. It's just place and solder. At one point I had issues, probably resulting from carelessly letting desoldering braid filled up with solder shorting out some of the power supply capacitors (holding like 18V) while I was touching up a few solder joints. It works fine now though.

Cell phone pics without the best lighting, so quality is not so great, but you can see what's going on.





For the sharp-eyed, a couple notes: (1) the four capacitors on the left are part of the power supply and are supposed to be the same, but I had spares and used two different types but with the same specs, (2) yes I mounted the board upside down in the enclosure and am not using a front panel, (3) R17 and R21 are indeed left blank intentionally to have 1x (no) gain on the low gain setting. High gain I set to 5.1x. Uh, also, (4) my soldering and parts placement sucks.









Ports from left to right are AC power input, on/off switch, headphone stereo output (3.5mm), (LED), volume knob (potentiometer), gain switch, stereo input (3.5mm), for reference.


----------



## Cotton

Nice! I'm buying one of those this month! Cant wait.

Does it sound exactly like everyone is saying?


----------



## mikeaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cotton*
> 
> Nice! I'm buying one of those this month! Cant wait.
> Does it sound exactly like everyone is saying?


It sounds detailed and clean enough to me, but I doubt I'd be able to tell the difference if it were slightly off. The comprehensive tests and measurements using high-end pro audio benchmark gear, speak for themselves.

Certainly it has enough power for my headphones (AKG K601 is my main and pretty quiet at around 100 dB SPL / 1 V rms input), and I don't hear any noise from it on sensitive balanced armature IEMs (Klipsch Custom 2, not a great model but really sensitive at over 130 dB SPL / 1 V rms input). I think you might be able to pick out noise in an anechoic chamber with IEMs that sensitive, or otherwise a really quiet listening environment, but that's it.

I wouldn't expect audible improvements over the Essence STX output with any of your headphones though. The STX generally does very well, though definitely less well when next to all the noisy fast-switching power hogs in your box (CPUs and GPUs and the VRMs of course). In a cleaner system, the STX's only potential issue is really the 10 ohms output impedance, which can cause undesirable interactions with some headphones, particularly those with lower impedance and highly varying impedance over frequency. DT 770 Pro, ATH-M50, Q701, XB500 should be slightly affected by that, but not by much at all.

That's just a (somewhat) educated guess though. Maybe I'm wrong.


----------



## Cotton

YGPM.


----------



## Draygonn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikeaj*
> 
> here's my Objective2 (O2) headphone amplifier.


Nice. ChineseKiwi and I are waiting to receive our O2s from a group buy.


----------



## DayoftheGreek

I'm quite jealous of everyones O2's. I'm holding out for the desktop ODA + ODAC though. I'm probably going to DIY it and I'll be sure to post some pictures when I do. In the mean time, keep the O2 pictures/impression coming!


----------



## groundzero9

AMB Labs M^3 to complement my tube amp. Powers my D7000s beautifully with the Bias cranked up.


----------



## audiofreak95

A little LM386 amp I made first amp as well.


----------



## jacobthellamer

Here is my main set up:

GRUBDAC + an o2 and millet starving student:

Electronic crossover:

Two Rod Elliot P3A's I put together, the case for this one is half finished and just sits on top for the moment:

Velodyne Sub I got for cheap and repaired:

Speakers I built to be bi-amped with an electronic crossover:

Front:


----------



## jacobthellamer

Some JLH class A modules I have been working on







Will be set up as dual mono's


----------



## Battou62

I am jelly of the O2 amps. I am waiting on the desktop ODAC.


----------



## jacobthellamer

I have 3 o2's built and sitting at home - 1 for simca - waiting on the ODAC release. They sound good.

I also have 2 spare boards waiting to be populated.

I have two "the wire" boards ready to start on soon


----------



## Draygonn

Some nice work in this thread.

I am finally getting around to finishing the speedball upgrade. I picked up a clamp at Fry's for $5 to help with the soldering. When the ODAC is released I will place one inside the Crack's enclosure.


----------



## a88mckeen

I recently built an O2 amp with great success! So far, I am impressed with the sound and the cost was cheap($60ish). It is also a beginner friendly amp(no surface mount op-amps!). I encourage everybody to build one so NwAvGuy continues to design great stuff.

The guts!


The blue enclosure looks good.


It sounds great!


----------



## Firestorm252

We needed a sub in our HT that could actually fill a two-story ceiling living room and I had a Dayton 12" lying around.
So I stuck it in a 2 cu. ft sealed box with moderate bracing and about 1.5lbs of stuffing.

Had the box done since December, but the weather until recently has been crummy for painting.

click for unnecessary largeness.


Next to the old HTIB


only running off a 240W plate amp (separate enclosure) and we found out one of our ceiling fans in an adjoining room vibrates loudly whenever ~30Hz gets played with any authority.


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Draygonn*


Beautiful! I will be ordering one soon, it will be my first build. Hopefully I make it work.


----------



## pangolinman

All this DIY stuff makes me jealous.

I'm all for it, but doubt my own skills. I'd love to build an O2 but have no experience in soldering/building/anything that would be relevant and useful.

How did you guys go about learning how to build/solder?


----------



## bobfig

hmm im surprised i havent posted my new project in here.... well im making a gainclone amp. its a nice little project but have been waiting to get stuff in go get done. im mainly waiting for the enclosure and heatsink to finish up.


----------



## liquidzoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pangolinman*
> 
> All this DIY stuff makes me jealous.
> I'm all for it, but doubt my own skills. I'd love to build an O2 but have no experience in soldering/building/anything that would be relevant and useful.
> How did you guys go about learning how to build/solder?


Just practice. That's what I've done. I'll post a prelim pic of my diy later.


----------



## .Sup

a88mckeen where can one order the O2 amp?


----------



## liquidzoo

JDS Labs has the PCBs for sale, you can get the remaining list of required components from NwAvGuy's blog


----------



## liquidzoo

Simple switch box. Takes my sound card output and sends it either to speakers or to the 1/4" headphone jack for my headphones. Works well so far. I'll test it some more tomorrow.


----------



## bobfig

just a teaser of what im working on. need a little more work but it should do.


----------



## mikeaj

That reminds me. I had it built several months ago, but somewhat recently I finally sourced a front panel for my O2 build. I got it for $8 shipped from aerohoff on diyaudio, so I was pretty pleased given that price. IIRC he also had a bamboo option. The acrylic kind of has its own charm versus the JDSLabs panel, so I thought it was worth showing.

Please excuse the lack of effort and quality on these cell phone pics:


Spoiler: Default B2-080BK enclosure with acrylic panel, O2 build




_A couple scratches on the panel itself are 'cuz I'm stupid; the input saying 12-16 VAC is a typo on somebody else's part_


_With flash activated, see the very inelegant grounding of the input to the chassis; a bare wire is held in place by the screw to a part next to the screwhole where I scratched off the anodizing_


----------



## bobfig

a little bit more. just need to wire up the main 120v power and make a star ground and it should be ready for testing.


----------



## SadistBlinx

.


----------



## Step83

Heres my attempt, not finished yet had an issue with water coming through behind teh sub so funky soggy moulding boot liner mmmm smelly, but hey photos...



















Kit wise back end we have three Genesis amps, one series 2 SM100 (2X100), one Series 60 ST60 (60WX2) and Series 3 ST100 (2X100) cabling 4AWG power and earth with 12AW speaker and 10AWG sub speaker cable, Van Damme XLR for the RCAs and Amphernol connectors, source unit at the moment is a Kenwood KDC BT8100.

Sines a bit peaky from the poor battery new ones in which has smoothed it out nicely


----------



## tr8rjohnk

Hey bofig, how's the gainclone coming along? Is that an lm3875 - which kit did you go with?

I've always been curious, you don't happen to have a scope to test with, do you? I'd love to know how these measure (may have to just put one together but I can't get to that for a while).

Most importantly (if its up and running), how does it sound?


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tr8rjohnk*
> 
> Hey bofig, how's the gainclone coming along? Is that an lm3875 - which kit did you go with?
> I've always been curious, you don't happen to have a scope to test with, do you? I'd love to know how these measure (may have to just put one together but I can't get to that for a while).
> Most importantly (if its up and running), how does it sound?


no scope and its probably 95% of the way done. i broke a lead in the pot and had to order a new one. also got a little board off of ebay that it mounts to so that it hopefully wont happen again.

the kit i am using is from audiosector.com as it has some good reviews and following on diyaudio.com. not turned on but just sitting here. im sure ill have to change a few things when i get it up and going.


----------



## tr8rjohnk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> no scope and its probably 95% of the way done. i broke a lead in the pot and had to order a new one. also got a little board off of ebay that it mounts to so that it hopefully wont happen again.
> the kit i am using is from audiosector.com as it has some good reviews and following on diyaudio.com. not turned on but just sitting here. im sure ill have to change a few things when i get it up and going.


I thought that was the kit. I was looking at it myself. Can't wait to read about how you like it (when its finished).


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tr8rjohnk*
> 
> I thought that was the kit. I was looking at it myself. Can't wait to read about how you like it (when its finished).


wellto let you know the pot came in today and i connected everything for ya and all i have really tested it with is my evo 4g as a source and one 4ohm car woofer from my old component set as the speaker and it plays good sounds nice for a woofer without a box. took a little trouble shooting as the coil was heating up fast at first start up. i give it a big









not sure if i want to use the board i have on the way but will see when it gets here.

EDIT:

well i stuck the led strip and here it is. also hooked the amp up to my bookshelfs that im using and it sounds clean. i cant turn it up too loud as its midnight now and everyone is sleeping,


----------



## tr8rjohnk

bobfig, looking good!









I'm sure you can't wait until tomorrow when you can turn up the volume.

I like the knob on that enclosure. Did you 'scavenge' it from something sitting around or is there a source for those?


----------



## bobfig

that knob is $14 +3weeks of waiting









http://www.ebay.com/itm/120731604909?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


----------



## tr8rjohnk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> that knob is $14 +3weeks of waiting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/120731604909?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


Ouch.


----------



## bobfig

well it is pretty nice and transparent. when hooked up to my titanium HD its very pleasant. i did have a couple of problems tho. i have the rca's are wire backward so the left is on the right and vice versa. another is if i turn the knob higher then 75% i get a buzz but that may be taking super application of the interference from the computer to the rca. last i had one problem after listening for 5 or so hours it stated to make weird noises but when fiddling with it it went away..

the temps of the amp chips dont get hot, just warm to the touch. i have to say that its a nice starter amp and good to learn on.


----------



## .Sup

Good stuff Step, you should make a cover so you can actually put stuff in the trunk.


----------



## Step83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.Sup*
> 
> Good stuff Step, you should make a cover so you can actually put stuff in the trunk.


It will do, need to do all the cabling it will all be quick release then i can make the lid


----------



## tr8rjohnk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> well it is pretty nice and transparent. when hooked up to my titanium HD its very pleasant. i did have a couple of problems tho. i have the rca's are wire backward so the left is on the right and vice versa. another is if i turn the knob higher then 75% i get a buzz but that may be taking super application of the interference from the computer to the rca. last i had one problem after listening for 5 or so hours it stated to make weird noises but when fiddling with it it went away..
> the temps of the amp chips dont get hot, just warm to the touch. i have to say that its a nice starter amp and good to learn on.


How's this coming along? Any 'off' solder joints maybe?


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tr8rjohnk*
> 
> How's this coming along? Any 'off' solder joints maybe?


its pretty much done. all the joints should be fine as i already re flowed them. its more RF interference when turned up now. you wont hear it unless its dead silent and most of the time i dont have to turn it up past 50%.


----------



## tr8rjohnk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> its pretty much done. all the joints should be fine as i already re flowed them. its more RF interference when turned up now. you wont hear it unless its dead silent and most of the time i dont have to turn it up past 50%.


OK, getting there. How about some ferrite couplers on the internal wire leads? You can get them for pennies at Radio Shack - should completely eliminate any floating RF garble. Glad to hear its coming along so nicely.


----------



## jacobthellamer

Finished JLH amp:





Some almost sten II's - I have modified the crossover for different tweeters and have used thicker MDF. Veneer is stone maple.


----------



## bobfig

purdy


----------



## llama16

I should update my thread about them:

They're still to be sanded, painted and cleared a dozen times.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llama16*
> 
> I should update my thread about them:
> They're still to be sanded, painted and cleared a dozen times.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


\

i was wondering about your project a while back.









its been almost 2 years hasn't i?


----------



## llama16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> \
> i was wondering about your project a while back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its been almost 2 years hasn't i?










now now, not even a year







. Yeah it's been a while, They're running for a couple of weeks now, but exams and college is taking a huge amount of time. If I can even find an hour not behind the books in the weekend, I can score myself lucky.

Thing is... I finished them during exams







, I just couldn't stand being home and not having them finished so I made them to working order.
They sound really good, I expected alot less from them. But they are holding their own against a 2k speakerset of the same magnitude and use as these.

I'm still busy drawing up paintschemes, because I don't want to do them glossy black like every speaker at home or ever made. Ideas are welcome


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llama16*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now now, not even a year
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Yeah it's been a while, They're running for a couple of weeks now, but exams and college is taking a huge amount of time. If I can even find an hour not behind the books in the weekend, I can score myself lucky.
> Thing is... I finished them during exams
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I just couldn't stand being home and not having them finished so I made them to working order.
> They sound really good, I expected alot less from them. But they are holding their own against a 2k speakerset of the same magnitude and use as these.
> I'm still busy drawing up paintschemes, because I don't want to do them glossy black like every speaker at home or ever made. Ideas are welcome


veneer them with wood of choice, all the way or just the front and have the sides and back a hammered black.


----------



## llama16

yet my woodskills are abysmal. I'd also like to bezel the edges (like yours, but I can't find the english name for the tool used to do it). I'll just stick to painting and maybe next time try veneering. I have thought of it before, but it seems to much of a risk.


----------



## bobfig

a router with the right bit would be it.

round-over bit or chamfer bit


----------



## jacobthellamer

Nice Work with your speakers llama16 - Those crossovers look nice!

Routers do make speaker building much easier


----------



## audiofreak95




----------



## jacobthellamer

workshop speaker?


----------



## jacobthellamer

Progress so far on a test cabinet. If successful I'll be building a more refined pair soon.


----------



## CrazzyRussian

Does anybody know where I can still buy a Starving Student amplifier kit? If they arent made anymore,c an somebody recommend me a cheap tube amp like the starving student? I'm really to take the next step in DIY audio.

To not make this a wasted post I'll post pics of my Cmoy a tad bit later. The Cmoy is my second version, build on a PCB and not a pref-board like my first one. Only thing I have to do now is find an enclosure as an Altoids tin is a female dog when it comes down to drilling the holes without tearing the thin metal


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazzyRussian*
> 
> Does anybody know where I can still buy a Starving Student amplifier kit? If they arent made anymore,c an somebody recommend me a cheap tube amp like the starving student? I'm really to take the next step in DIY audio.
> To not make this a wasted post I'll post pics of my Cmoy a tad bit later. The Cmoy is my second version, build on a PCB and not a pref-board like my first one. Only thing I have to do now is find an enclosure as an Altoids tin is a female dog when it comes down to drilling the holes without tearing the thin metal


the SS kit is over because the supply of tubs are so hard to find now.. they did adopt a new tube but that was the last i heard about it.

looks like the minimax and "torpedo is" still going.

http://beezar.com/catalog/index.php


----------



## llama16

Mine are finished as well: For the build log see -->

http://www.overclock.net/t/1115064/project-low-budget-2-way-standing-vented-speakerset/0_20


----------



## Face76

My DIY speakers:







Hot rodded Rega P2:



Heavily upgraded Mapletree Line 2A tube preamp:


----------



## tr8rjohnk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacobthellamer*
> 
> Progress so far on a test cabinet. If successful I'll be building a more refined pair soon.


Was the cabinetry steam bent? If not, how?

Looking good so far.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face76*
> 
> My DIY speakers:
> 
> -snip-


Nice, they look wonderful!

I'm also loving the Tool artwork on the wall


----------



## Face76

Thanks!


----------



## Face76

*double post*


----------



## jacobthellamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tr8rjohnk*
> 
> Was the cabinetry steam bent? If not, how?
> Looking good so far.


I laminated 3mm sheets of MDF in a mold made from the off-cuts.


----------



## tr8rjohnk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacobthellamer*
> 
> I laminated 3mm sheets of MDF in a mold made from the off-cuts.


Nice, I've never done this with MDF, did you use regular old yellow glue or something else?


----------



## jacobthellamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tr8rjohnk*
> 
> Nice, I've never done this with MDF, did you use regular old yellow glue or something else?


Just polyurathane - the type that expands with mosture.


----------



## BugBash

This is a dual 37v power supply for my Naim Audio preamp and a pair of MiniDSP`s.

The transformer was wound to my specs (44mm high) and is 225VA, dual centre tapped 26v windings.
Rectification by Q-Speed LQA30T300 diodes and 10,000uF BHC SlitFoil reservoir caps.
Voltage is regulated inside the preamp right by the circuitry instead of near the psu.
The MiniDSPs are fed by thier own centre tapped winding.
These feed 3 Naim poweramps running a pair of two way standmounts and two subs.
I will shoehorn all this into a Naim Flatcap psu one day!


----------



## flaviz

Well I hooked up a 10 year old RCA 5.1 home theater surround sound to my computer; you gotta start somewhere.


----------



## Face76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tr8rjohnk*
> 
> Nice, I've never done this with MDF, did you use regular old yellow glue or something else?


Yellow glue, such as Titebond II, is best.


----------



## General Crumples

I use my desktop tower as a headphone stand


----------



## llama16

Eek :S That looks painfully wide for a headphone stand.


----------



## General Crumples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llama16*
> 
> Eek :S That looks painfully wide for a headphone stand.


I used it for my late Superlux since it has metal headband and clamps way too tight. I eventually got it more comfortable then my Panasonic since I had custom pads for it and it was stretched quite a bit. However I shouldn't use it for my pannies since they have a plastic headband that will either crack or snap.


----------



## tr8rjohnk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BugBash*
> 
> This is a dual 37v power supply for my Naim Audio preamp and a pair of MiniDSP`s.
> The transformer was wound to my specs (44mm high) and is 225VA, dual centre tapped 26v windings.
> Rectification by Q-Speed LQA30T300 diodes and 10,000uF BHC SlitFoil reservoir caps.
> Voltage is regulated inside the preamp right by the circuitry instead of near the psu.
> The MiniDSPs are fed by thier own centre tapped winding.
> These feed 3 Naim poweramps running a pair of two way standmounts and two subs.
> I will shoehorn all this into a Naim Flatcap psu one day!


I'm loving that transformer.


----------



## Simca

I have to say you all are very skilled. I could never hope to ever build anything like this. I had jacobthellamer build me my ODAC+O2. I can't even build THAT myself.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikeaj*
> 
> That reminds me. I had it built several months ago, but somewhat recently I finally sourced a front panel for my O2 build. I got it for $8 shipped from aerohoff on diyaudio, so I was pretty pleased given that price. IIRC he also had a bamboo option. The acrylic kind of has its own charm versus the JDSLabs panel, so I thought it was worth showing.
> 
> Please excuse the lack of effort and quality on these cell phone pics:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Default B2-080BK enclosure with acrylic panel, O2 build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _A couple scratches on the panel itself are 'cuz I'm stupid; the input saying 12-16 VAC is a typo on somebody else's part_
> 
> 
> _With flash activated, see the very inelegant grounding of the input to the chassis; a bare wire is held in place by the screw to a part next to the screwhole where I scratched off the anodizing_


Looks nice...but I don't prefer to see the insides..I wish it was black barely see through acrylic.


----------



## llama16

Damnit I did it again. I ordered everything for an O2 and I'm about to order everything for some 'black beauty' desktop speakers with the CHR70s from Markaudio.

My bankaccount is slinking.

And I don't even need it! I've plenty of amps and just finished building some speakers.

If anyone has any different kind of projects, let me know. I like to build things that I actually use: amps, speakers, guitar pedals,... I might make a little portable blurayplayer out of a raspberry pi, which might be very interesting. And I'm sure there are tons of things to be done with an arduino and I haven't even begun :S.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llama16*
> 
> Damnit I did it again. I ordered everything for an O2 and I'm about to order everything for some 'black beauty' desktop speakers with the CHR70s from Markaudio.
> My bankaccount is slinking.
> And I don't even need it! I've plenty of amps and just finished building some speakers.
> If anyone has any different kind of projects, let me know. I like to build things that I actually use: amps, speakers, guitar pedals,... I might make a little portable blurayplayer out of a raspberry pi, which might be very interesting. And I'm sure there are tons of things to be done with an arduino and I haven't even begun :S.


i got some SYMEF pcb boards to make an amp that puts 100watts per channel at 4ohm. i just havent had a reason to make it yet.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/198500-symef-amplifier.html


----------



## axipher

Anyone have some recommendations for 1/8" to line-level DAC's for converting a computer's output for use in a car stereo system?

I'm currently using a Alpine KTP-445 as a mini-amp to power 2 pairs of Alpine Type-R speakers in my car. In my *latest build log*, I need to figure out how to completely remove my current alpine deck and have my computer power the speakers.

For the sub-woofer's amp, I'm assuming just a regular 1/8" > RCA cable will do since the amp can accept that. The speaker's amp on the other hand requires a speaker line-level signal. Essentially 2 sets of stereo audio.


----------



## llama16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> i got some SYMEF pcb boards to make an amp that puts 100watts per channel at 4ohm. i just havent had a reason to make it yet.
> http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/198500-symef-amplifier.html


Looks interesting







. I've never built an amp before for speakers, only headphones. I might want to look into that, you cruel cruel being.
I also need a DAC then, because what use is an amp without a DAC as I use my PC...


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llama16*
> 
> Looks interesting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I've never built an amp before for speakers, only headphones. I might want to look into that, you cruel cruel being.
> I also need a DAC then, because what use is an amp without a DAC as I use my PC...












well if you had a sound card that's all you need. but what you could do is get the skeleton dac and have it do the dirty work as all it needs is a usb cable. have the outputs directly to the amp boards or yu could go with a selector knob and have other inputs also.

if you want a kit amp the first time then take a look at the Gainclone. its a nice little amp that is easy to do and gets your feet wet in the bigger stuff. i have personally built this gainclone and have been using it for the last 4 months. i love it and it hasnt given me a problem yet.

http://www.overclock.net/t/512714/post-pics-of-your-audio-diy-56k-warning/360#post_17124075


----------



## llama16

Yeah I've lookded into the gainclone a few times, but not yet took the bait.
I'm pretty familiar with amps by now, but only on low power (headphones), it's new to me to work on high voltage speaker amps (allthough I built one highvoltage one for my guitar, but guitar amps are quite simple compared to more audiophile ones)

I'm still brosing between all the ideas, but I'm glad you directed me to the skeletondac, because I've been gone searching through 10s of dac designs and never really found the right one. I'm familiar with beezar (ordered caps for my SSMH) and this is the first time that I notice that they have a new dac


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Anyone have some recommendations for 1/8" to line-level DAC's for converting a computer's output for use in a car stereo system?
> 
> I'm currently using a Alpine KTP-445 as a mini-amp to power 2 pairs of Alpine Type-R speakers in my car. In my *latest build log*, I need to figure out how to completely remove my current alpine deck and have my computer power the speakers.
> 
> For the sub-woofer's amp, I'm assuming just a regular 1/8" > RCA cable will do since the amp can accept that. The speaker's amp on the other hand requires a speaker line-level signal. Essentially 2 sets of stereo audio.


You'll need to use speaker amplifiers as well (a 4ch would likely suffice). And in this case, take your L/R outputs of the computer, and go 3.5mm to RCA into the 4ch amp (will likely need a splitter so you get all 4 channels, unless you plan to use surround...which won't be doable with 4 speakers anyway).


----------



## Face76

Excuse my ignorance, but why is a 4 channel amp recommended?


----------



## Simca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face76*
> 
> Excuse my ignorance, but why is a 4 channel amp recommended?


Because 4 is better than 3.









lol jk, idk.


----------



## CrazzyRussian

A 4 channel amp is just what I person like me would need for their living room quadrosystem. My living room consists of a custom made TV cabinet wall that has 4 massive speakers installed at the top. I would have preferred something not as big and possibly placed better but for something built in the 1970s, they do their job just fine. I'll be having a Denon receiver powering them that I plan on getting refurbished off of ebay. If I was just looking for an amp and not a reciever, I'd look into building a 4 channel 100W amp.

EDIT: If anybody wants m0ar I would be happy to drive up to the new house and take some pics.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Anyone have some recommendations for 1/8" to line-level DAC's for converting a computer's output for use in a car stereo system?
> 
> I'm currently using a Alpine KTP-445 as a mini-amp to power 2 pairs of Alpine Type-R speakers in my car. In my *latest build log*, I need to figure out how to completely remove my current alpine deck and have my computer power the speakers.
> 
> For the sub-woofer's amp, I'm assuming just a regular 1/8" > RCA cable will do since the amp can accept that. The speaker's amp on the other hand requires a speaker line-level signal. Essentially 2 sets of stereo audio.
> 
> 
> 
> You'll need to use speaker amplifiers as well (a 4ch would likely suffice). And in this case, take your L/R outputs of the computer, and go 3.5mm to RCA into the 4ch amp (will likely need a splitter so you get all 4 channels, unless you plan to use surround...which won't be doable with 4 speakers anyway).
Click to expand...

Well I don't want to go buy another amp for the speakers when the KTP-445 in-line amp I already have does a decent job of driving the speakers. My problem is just getting the signal converted from RCA to speaker line-level. I'm hoping to find a box that can do that then just use the in-line amp for the speakers rather then make for another full-size amp and run power and ground to it as well.


----------



## jacobthellamer

The wire low power ultra high performance amp


----------



## biatchi

Nice! Stupid question but I presume it sounds awesome?


----------



## jacobthellamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *biatchi*
> 
> Nice! Stupid question but I presume it sounds awesome?


very much so


----------



## biatchi

It's on my to try list


----------



## Simca

Does it sound as yummy as that beer?


----------



## jacobthellamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *biatchi*
> 
> It's on my to try list


No more boards, you'll have to make your own









I hear there is a comercial version coming soon though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> Does it sound as yummy as that beer?


The beer was pretty yummy, but EV interfaces tied to the lpuhp's are yummier!


----------



## jacobthellamer

Test cab and crossover for my new speakers all done - time for testing, measuring and EQ.


----------



## jacobthellamer

Initial testing-


----------



## Simca

Sloppy paint job, but nice sound! The bass on those must be crazy IRL.


----------



## jacobthellamer

Cheers, this is just a proof of concept









Two tidy veneered versions to come.


----------



## Face76

How do they measure on and off axis? Using DSP for flat FR in room?


----------



## jacobthellamer

Here are the initial in room measurements @ 1m, I have not done any off axis yet.

I have been adjusting the levels on the cross over to get as flat as possible. I expect the lumps in the bottom end are due room modes and limitations in my measuring equipement.



No DSP - will correct with analouge circuits.


----------



## Face76

Yes, below 200hz is difficult to measure due to room nodes and floor bounce. Do you have any bass traps?

Other than level matching, the only other thing that would concern me is the blip of distortion at 600hz. What are your crossover points?


----------



## jacobthellamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face76*
> 
> Yes, below 200hz is difficult to measure due to room nodes and floor bounce. Do you have any bass traps?
> Other than level matching, the only other thing that would concern me is the blip of distortion at 600hz. What are your crossover points?


It must be cone breakup on the seas(edit: cone breakup is over 1K so cause is still unknown). The x-over points are 300Hz and 2kHz. There was a rattle while testing - this may have been at 600hz. I may need to tighten the screw for my next test









The green plot is the current setting, it has a little higher gain on the mid and tweet.

No bass traps.


----------



## Face76

CD22RN4X? You'll either need a steeper slope or a notch for the breakup.


----------



## jacobthellamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face76*
> 
> CD22RN4X? You'll either need a steeper slope or a notch for the breakup.


CA26RE4X - http://www.seas.no/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=118&Itemid=140


----------



## Face76

I would measure the woofer alone from a few different locations in the room to see if it's coming from the driver itself or the room.

As for bass traps, placing one on the floor between your speaker and mic will help you get cleaner measurements. There are plenty of DIY bass trap instructions on the net. I would recommend something 2'x4' and at least 4" deep.


----------



## Simca

I've removed all EQ changes to the DT880s. While it somewhat helped, it wasn't worth the overall distortion created. These aren't as EQ friendly as I thought, but to be fair the Equalizers I was using weren't the best.

That said, I've also changed my ODAC to 24 bit 96khz. It was 16/44.1 before. Quality wise, much better, although obviously bass has not improved at all.

That said, I prefer other amps, but for the price the O2's amp is unbeatable.


----------



## shockre

has anyone painted IEMs ever? I would like to paint my clear Shure SE215s black to match ear tips and cable.. dunno what paint to use, dont want it to chip off or get trashed easily in transport.


----------



## CrazzyRussian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shockre*
> 
> has anyone painted IEMs ever? I would like to paint my clear Shure SE215s black to match ear tips and cable.. dunno what paint to use, dont want it to chip off or get trashed easily in transport.


I recommend you use some sort of plastic primer and then use auto-grade black gloss spray paint. Only problem I see with this is that when you put the shure olives (eartips) back on they might damage the paint job in order to stay on properly. Before doing any of this however I suggest you first lightly sand the IEMs and then paint will thin coats. Don't try to achieve full coverage with every coat. Follow these rules and I bet you $100 if done properly you won't be seeing any chipping problems on the plastic besides what I warned you about. Good luck!


----------



## shockre

Thanks man, gonna try it out this or next weekend!


----------



## jacobthellamer

Frugal horn


----------



## ramicio

I think the only stock thing is the power transformer (EDIT: and the IEC socket).


----------



## Face76

New center channel for HT:



Mains then finishing coming up soon.

Hot rodded Dodd 6H30 buffer pre with mock up. Works and sounds great, so it'll be re-organized and installed into a nice case shortly.


----------



## Simca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face76*
> 
> New center channel for HT:


I like how it blocks the screen.


----------



## Face76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> I like how it blocks the screen.


Wisea$$.







The HT is in another room. The center is 30" tall and sits .5" under the screen.

Here you go:


----------



## Simca

You're gonna' paint it black right? Would be sore sight otherwise.

I like how your rooms are red. Looks great, but I'm far too conservative to paint my rooms like that.


----------



## Face76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> You're gonna' paint it black right? Would be sore sight otherwise.
> I like how your rooms are red. Looks great, but I'm far too conservative to paint my rooms like that.


Thanks. Yes, they'll be black when done.


----------



## Step83

Thought id update things, finished the basics of the amp rack more work needed though


----------



## mrsmiles

thought i'd ask here, been wanting to fix my K701's whats the best tension relief for the cable? i've had to resolder serveral times because there is basically no relief on the cable which is not stock.


----------



## Face76

Crossover only needs a little tweaking, otherwise they're just about done.


----------



## .Sup

wow good job man!


----------



## Face76

Thanks!


----------



## Draygonn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face76*
> 
> Crossover only needs a little tweaking, otherwise they're just about done.


Awesome setup.

--

Remodded my Fostex T40RPs over the holidays. Went from a Faust mod to BMF DBV#3. BMF sent the modding materials which simplified things greatly. Today I bought a hole punch and added ten 1.8mm holes to the black felt over each driver, and added small bass port holes to the stiff felt covering the vents. Bass increased nicely and stays in control.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

This is kind of a bad picture, but if you want to see the project details, check out this thread http://www.head-fi.org/t/648589/from-the-drivers-up-diy-headphones-no-lathe-or-high-end-equipment-required


----------



## TenshiPL




----------



## hatrix216

Been running 5.25" studio monitors without a sub for a while. Have a 18" sub on 1200 watts in my car, so my need for bass was pretty great. Decided to use an old Onkyo HTIB passive HT sub I had sitting around to make it a 2.1 setup.

Tore out the old aero port, which after calculations in a box design calculator had the box tuned to 55hz ?!?! Like what the **** kind of tuning is that. And my math was not wrong, trust me.

Bought a 2" aeroport, custom cut it to the required length for my desired tuning and glued it all together. It's flared on both ends, inside of the box and obviously out. The box is now tuned to 33hz. Still using the stock 8" sub, it is MUCH louder than before. And it's only being pushed by a 100 watt old JVC plate amp I took out of an old sub. No port noise either which was a big problem with the old one. Damn thing was a 4" port.

Box is a little tore up now and you can see slight excess dried glue. I'll clean it up eventually and want to wrap the box in vinyl or something better looking.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








I have a new sub coming for the box Tuesday, the one that all the calculations were based off, including displacement. It's a Sundown Audio E8v3. Should be plenty loud for my room setup. Hopefully it fits without any issues. Based on measurements it should.

Works out to 0.76cuft^3. I believe it's 0.01 above recommended, but after I buy a new plate amp and install it in the box, it'll displace enough to make it within, though I'm sure it'll sound perfectly fine.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Funny I'm using an 8" as my sub though when I have this sitting in my room too







It's a Sundown Audio Zv.2 18" in a 6.5cuft^3 box tuned to 32hz. Designed the box myself, built with a friend. It's his sub, just holding it for him as it's being sold. For anyone who knows sundown, the sub has been upgraded with all Zv.3 parts. Was around $160 I think for the upgrades.

Of course I hooked it up to my little plate amp just to listen to it for laughs, and it's loud as expected. I used to run an 18" sub in my room before, but now it's in my car instead. Subs these loud are for when no one is home, so I'll stick with my new 8" when it comes.


----------



## Firestorm252

haha, I think I have that same Onkyo passive at home collecting dust.

i may just go your route and rework it now


----------



## ybz90

This might be my favorite thread on OCN. I'll post some pics of my builds soon. Right now, I'm building a desktop version of the O2 amp for my brother.


----------



## astrallite

Ascend Acoustics Sierra-1 with RAAL 70-20XR

Great sounding monitors!


----------



## BiG_LiG

.


----------



## nX3NTY

I've posted this on ghetto rigging shenanigans thread but I think it's more appropriate here, though it's ghetto unlike most of the mods here







A cheap attempt to make CS4398 analog out as per datasheet. Sounds way better than Creative own one.


----------



## dean_8486

A small collection, too many pics to post...


----------



## hatrix216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Firestorm252*
> 
> haha, I think I have that same Onkyo passive at home collecting dust.
> 
> i may just go your route and rework it now


So did you ever do anything with the box ? It was totally worth putting a Sundown Audio E8v3 in it with the new aero port. It's LOUD for such a small foot print, way louder than the original sub. Tuned for music obviously too now.

Plays all the way down to 20hz (give or take whats really AUDIBLE that low) Its more than I expected in output. Sundown Audio makes great products. When it actually sees 300 watts I know it's much louder than much more expensive premade active HT subs, 10" or 12". I realize tuning is different, but even if they were tuned the same.


----------



## KaHuNaZ

Finished up a husky tool box boom box. Used the drivers from the micca mb42 and a lepai lp2020a+ amp. I plan on adding an external power switch and picking up a battery/charger to make it mobile. I may even try adding a bluetooth module. 

I also entered it into a Ryobi contest. If you like it, feel free to send some votes my way here https://www.ryobitools.com/nation/projects/1767
you can vote once a day every day until the end of the month. Thanks!


----------



## Fremish

Here is a project I am starting. It does not look pretty however, please keep in mind this is just the start. As of when I took this picture I was not very far. Now, I have most everything complete as far as wood goes. The only thing left would be placing the dividers inside the enclosure to separate the compartments.


And yes, I am aware the orientation of the photo is upside down. I cannot do anything about it. Regardless of what I do Apple products have a mind of their own.


----------



## ironsurvivor

Sorry about iphone photo. Just got my sansui G9000db restored


----------



## .Sup

You finished that Crack very nicely Dean! How does Bijou compare to it?


----------



## KaHuNaZ

V2. A little more refined.


----------



## iandroo888

Built some speaker stands with some nice red oak and stained dark. now my tweeters are at ear level


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> Built some speaker stands with some nice red oak and stained dark. now my tweeters are at ear level


Are you using blue tack?


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> Are you using blue tack?


Whats blue tack?


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> Whats blue tack?


Children use it for arts and crafts. Audio people use it to sort of sink everything together. The idea is that as your speakers are pushing against the air, the air is in turn pushing against your speaker. So you loose a very slight amount of energy in the movement of your speaker. Blue tack is like a rubber clay that you can use to sort of cement your speakers into your stands to combat the problem. If you warm it up in your hands, it turns soft. Once you stick it to something it will act as a kind of doubled sided tape.

The difference in audio quality is anywhere from a slight improvement to a rather large improvement. In general, people (including myself and all of my friends) report a slight increase in clarity and bass response.

It is not a massive improvement, but I mean the stuff costs 3 bucks at wall mart, and you get enough to last you for months on end.


----------



## silvrr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> Children use it for arts and crafts. Audio people use it to sort of sink everything together. The idea is that as your speakers are pushing against the air, the air is in turn pushing against your speaker. So you loose a very slight amount of energy in the movement of your speaker. Blue tack is like a rubber clay that you can use to sort of cement your speakers into your stands to combat the problem. If you warm it up in your hands, it turns soft. Once you stick it to something it will act as a kind of doubled sided tape.
> 
> The difference in audio quality is anywhere from a slight improvement to a rather large improvement. In general, people (including myself and all of my friends) report a slight increase in clarity and bass response.
> 
> It is not a massive improvement, but I mean the stuff costs 3 bucks at wall mart, and you get enough to last you for months on end.


I find this a bit hard to believe. The weight of the speaker should take care of this. The mass of the moving parts of a speaker like the one above is pretty low. The pressure generated by the cone should also be low in comparison to the overall speaker mass.

Did you blind test the difference? The mind is easily tricked into what it wants to hear.

I think the difference. Would be more related to isolating the wood of the speaker from the wood of the stand if the speaker didn't have rubber feet.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvrr*
> 
> I find this a bit hard to believe. The weight of the speaker should take care of this. The mass of the moving parts of a speaker like the one above is pretty low. The pressure generated by the cone should also be low in comparison to the overall speaker mass.
> 
> Did you blind test the difference? The mind is easily tricked into what it wants to hear.
> 
> I think the difference. Would be more related to isolating the wood of the speaker from the wood of the stand if the speaker didn't have rubber feet.


Go do a random search for speaker stands. When you find a couple with screw holes that are meant for speakers that have no screw sockets....you come find me and tell me what your hypothesis for that is.

I will give you a hint. It is not for isolation.


----------



## silvrr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> Go do a random search for speaker stands. When you find a couple with screw holes that are meant for speakers that have no screw sockets....you come find me and tell me what your hypothesis for that is.
> 
> I will give you a hint. It is not for isolation.


Care to post an example?

Also, blind or sighted testing?


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvrr*
> 
> Care to post an example?
> 
> Also, blind or sighted testing?


http://cdn.avsforum.com/2/21/900x900px-LL-21aeb91f_802S3_SoundAnchors.jpeg

Blind testing on two separate occasions with my own speakers stands that I made with a friends help. And then A blind test with some music hall stands. The rest of the 100+ times were all sighted.


----------



## silvrr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> http://cdn.avsforum.com/2/21/900x900px-LL-21aeb91f_802S3_SoundAnchors.jpeg
> 
> Blind testing on two separate occasions with my own speakers stands that I made with a friends help. And then A blind test with some music hall stands. The rest of the 100+ times were all sighted.


For those exact stands from the manufactures web page
Quote:


> Sound Anchor 801 Matrix Stands fasten to your speakers using the existing threaded inserts that are provided on the bottom of the speakers (fasteners are provided for both series II and series III speakers). If you have pre-matrix speakers they can be fastened to the stands with lag bolts which are not included.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvrr*
> 
> For those exact stands from the manufactures web page


And your point is?

Lots of stands still work for plenty of other speakers. Which still benefit from being screwed in. Like my Snell Es which I tapped for the bolts.


----------



## silvrr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> And your point is?
> 
> Lots of stands still work for plenty of other speakers. Which still benefit from being screwed in. Like my Snell Es which I tapped for the bolts.


My point was those stands have holes for specific speakers. You said stands have holes for speakers that don't have screw mounts on the bottom.

I think I was looking at this wrong. If the cone can move and cause some sort of vibration (movement) to the surface the speaker is sitting on it can obviously move the speaker.

Either coupling the speaker to a stand which dampens this vibration or decoupling it from a surface that will resonate would effect the sound as your not hearing that vibration.


----------



## wthenshaw

Are DIY home made valve amplifiers welcome here?


----------



## silvrr

I say yes. Post up.


----------



## wthenshaw

I'm not done yet, in fact I've barely started, I'm gathering parts at the moment, contemplating creating a build log.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvrr*
> 
> My point was those stands have holes for specific speakers. You said stands have holes for speakers that don't have screw mounts on the bottom.
> 
> I think I was looking at this wrong. If the cone can move and cause some sort of vibration (movement) to the surface the speaker is sitting on it can obviously move the speaker.
> 
> Either coupling the speaker to a stand which dampens this vibration or decoupling it from a surface that will resonate would effect the sound as your not hearing that vibration.


I never said you hear vibrations. I said that you tend to loose a tiny bit of energy from the speakers.

And I called up sound anchor to buy mine stands. They said the screw holes can be used regardless.


----------



## billbartuska

Your discussion in Blue TacK and speaker stands is interesting. Any comments on the interface between the stand and the surface it sits on.
I built these out of 3/4" MDF, and filled them with sand.


----------



## Face76

Shameless bump...


----------



## silvrr

Ive been working on a set of T50rp's. Really like where they are going.

I mass loaded the driver side of the baffle and sealed the cups which really brought up the bass in them. The baffle ear side port is also sealed with a bit of electrical tape, not sure if this is going to stay so haven't permanently sealed it yet. The cup side vents are 3/4 sealed.

http://s111.photobucket.com/user/silvrr600/media/IMG_4113_zpsohdvhzeb.jpg.html

Then I tried the felt on the back of the driver. Also tried the black dot to reflect some highs into the ear but it became very sibilant after other mods so its now gone.

http://s111.photobucket.com/user/silvrr600/media/IMG_4119_zpsipjquzev.jpg.html

A bit of cotton in the cups, started out with quite a bit and it made the drivers super sibilant and the highs were to much for me. Slowly lowered the amount and found filling the two side voids in the cups and leaving the middle bare found a happy medium between tightening up the bass and keeping the treble in control.

Then I also picked up a set of lambskin pads from ZMF which greatly impoved the isloation and comfort but also boosted the sub bass and a bit of the high end.

This is about where I am now. Going to try some acoustic foam in the cups and some dampener on the ear side of the baffle and then Ill likely be done.

http://s111.photobucket.com/user/silvrr600/media/IMG_4120_zpscemrkhoi.jpg.html

Plan is to cut some wood cups for them this winter and continue to utilize the stock baffles.


----------



## badtaylorx

well, ATM I have a pair of Chane A1rx-c's and 1 A2rx-c. I had been using them in an LCR for a bit, but I'm a tinkererer.

So what I decided to do is mod the three speakers into two! Maybe I'll make a mod-log here.

They're going to become a pair of MTM towers. I've ordered the cabinet kit http://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-tritrix-mtm-tl-knock-down-cnc-speaker-cabinet-pair--300-701

I'm going to upgrade the tweets while im at it to a set of either these http://www.parts-express.com/hivi-rt2c-a-planar-isodynamic-tweeter--297-406 or these http://www.parts-express.com/fountek-neo-x-30-ribbon-tweeter-silver--296-715.

I really think these will shine with some extra breathing room.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Made a simple preamp for my microphone. The box is big for the tiny circuit, but I plan on adding more to it, like a high/low pass switch, volume, and external power with filtering. Currently it just gets it's power from the sound card's mic boost.


----------



## bobfig

few little touch ups but pretty much done. 2nd gainclone amp made and sounds awesome!!


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Upgraded mic preamp. Added external power, a second stage, and external on/off switch. Switch lights up when powered on.

Voltage regulator supplies 5V to the circuit. Still need to add volume control and high/low pass filtering.


----------



## billbartuska

Logiteck Z 130 mod.


----------



## .Sup

Made it out of an old Neutrik goose neck. The goose neck is very stiff and can hold up to four headphones without a problem. The AGK mic pictured was attached but its not that good. Works though.


----------



## Chargeit

Stereo speaker I made for use with my phone over 3.5mm jack for my shop. Uses a pair of Rockford Fosgate Punch P152 5" full range speakers and a 100w Pyle T amp



Headphone stand with built in usb 3.0 ports I just made. And yeah, my headphones are crap but I can't stand having my ears covered. Willing to take suggestions.


----------

