# CRYORIG Fan & Cooler Club; R1 Ult, R1 Uni, C1, H5, XF140 & XT140 and all things Cryorig



## doyll

Updatged 07.03.2017

*CRYORIG Provides Free AM4 update kit*

http://www.cryorig.com/getam4.php
Quote:


> CRYORIG Readies Full AM4 Line Up and Free Upgrade Kit
> 
> With the much-anticipated release of the AMD Ryzen CRYORIG prepares to launch a full line of AMD Ryzen dedicated coolers as well as simple upgrade kits for existing AMD compatible CRYORIG cooling products. Beginning from Type A to Type D, there will be a total of 4 different AM4 upgrade kits depending on the corresponding CRYORIG product. Natively supporting Ryzen dedicated version models will begin to release later in Q2 2017 and will consist of the full CRYORIG cooling portfolio.
> 
> CRYORIG's four AM4 upgrade kits will be released beginning in late March and will be completely free of charge (including shipping) for existing users to apply for. Users will only need to provide a proof of purchase of the CRYORIG product (or product registration number), and a proof of purchase of an AMD Ryzen or AM4 CPU or Motherboard. Just fill out and supply all necessary info at "www.cryorig.com/getam4.php", the kit will be sent directly to the provided address. Distributors and select channels will also have these kits available. The following chart indicates the CRYORIG product and it's corresponding AM4 upgrade kit.
> 
> 
> 
> C YORIG's dedicated Ryzen ready products will natively contain AMD socket AM4 optimized mounting kits, and will also continue to support modern AMD sockets including AM3/AM3+. Beginning in Q2 2017, CRYORIG will start shipping dedicated Ryzen ready versions of CRYORIG's full product line. Exact release dates will vary from model to model. The Ryzen Supported sticker will be found on all dedicated Ryzen ready coolers for easy identification, and indicates that no additional kits are required for Ryzen support.
> 
> About CRYORIG
> 
> Officially founded in 2013, CRYORIG is dedicated in delivering the most technically advanced, best designed and easy to use products on the market. The creators of CRYORIG have decades worth of experience working with multiple top high-end PC peripherals brands. With the long experience and drive for innovation and improvement, CRYORIG is about applying RESEARCH and innovative IDEAS making the coolest GEAR possible.


Figured as R1 Ultimate is now available in Japan and Korea.. and will be in Germany next it is time to have a CRYORIG group thread.









Quote:


> *CRYORIG LLC, announces the arrival of the R1, CRYORIG's first flagship CPU cooler.*
> 
> Officially founded in 2013, CRYORIG is a fresh new comer to the PC peripherals and Cooling market but with a core team of seasoned veterans. Our team's resume include experiences with renowned brands such Thermalright, Prolimatech and Phanteks. With our experience and drive for innovation and improvement we are proud to present our very first flagship dual tower solution, the CRYORIG R1.
> 
> The R1 is an accumulation of years of research and design. Putting good use to our multiple manufacturing and design patents, the CRYORIG R1 is jam packed with multiple one of a kind features. The long list of features include our patented DirectCompress™ full contact soldering process, Jet Fin Acceleration System™, Heatpipe Convex-Align™ and Displacement Optimization™ Systems.
> 
> The R1 will be featured in two flavors, the R1Universal and the R1 Ultimate. The R1 Ultimate will have two XF140's full 140x26mm fans, and the ability to add a third XF140. The Universal version features one XF140 and a thin profile 140x13mm XT140 silent performance fan, offering terrific performance with almost no tradeoff for performance and compatibility.
> 
> The CRYORIG R1 Ultimate, XF140 and XT140 are set for release on Jan 1st of 2014 and the R1 Universal is set at February 2014 for select countries.
> 
> Please visit www.CRYORIG.com for the latest product information and release dates.


Edit 16/12/2013
Finally got price & pics of R1 Ultimate with black shrouds! :clap:
CRYORIG R1 Ultimate - MSRP of $89.95


Quote:


> *A Closer look at the CRYORIG R1 Ultimate*
> 
> CRYORIG's first launch product the CRYORIG R1 Ultimate is the accumulation of years of research and design. CRYOIG is now revealing a more detailed explanation and closer look at the R1 Ultimate's extremely long list of trademarked technology and patented designs.
> 
> *DirectCompress™ Soldering*
> CRYORIG's patented DirectCompress™ Soldering, increases the actual contact surface between the heatpipe and heatsink fins. Traditional soldering requires a cut out area next to the heatpipe through hole in order to pass through soldering tools. DirectCompress™ Soldering requires no cut out and has on average at least 10% more contact surface compared to traditional soldering, and the more contact surface the faster the heat conduction.
> 
> *Heatpipe Displacement Optimization™*
> On aluminum sheets, heat spreads out in a radial direction. By displacing the heatpipe alignment on the heatsink fins, our Heatsink Displacement Optimization™ allows for better and more evenly spread heat conduction on the fins compared to traditional linear alignment.
> 
> *Jet Fin Acceleration System™*
> The individual tower stack on the R1 Ultimate is separated into two sections, the wider gap air intake and the high density exhaust section. By the laws of fluid dynamics, the increase in fin count in the exhaust section squeezes airflow and increases exhaust air speed. The increase of airflow speed in our Jet Fin Acceleration System™ allows heated air to leave the tower faster.
> 
> *Heatpipe Convex-Align™ System*
> The R1 Ultimate's Heatpipe Convex-Align™ System allows for more heatpipes in a given area, optimized heatpipe placement in the copper base, and improved alignment with your CPU. With the Heatpipe Convex-Align™ System, each heatpipe functions to their maximum TDP capacity.
> 
> *Acoustic Optimizations*
> Acoustics are just as important as performance. That's why both the XF140 and XT140 140mm fan integrate acoustic optimizations. Both fans featuring High Precision Low Noise (HPLN™) Sleeve Bearing and the detachable Acoustic Vibration Absorbers that gives the fan a snugger fit while canceling vibration and noise at the same time.
> 
> *Patent Pending "MultiSeg™" Quick Mount System*
> CRYORIG's MultiSeg™ Quick Mount System, features a 1.5mm thick mechanical structure reinforced metal backplate and precision pressure calculated spring screw mounting system. The MultiSeg™ Quick Mount System delivers a quick, ultra secure and sturdy all in one solution on Intel LGA115X platforms. Mount your R1 Ultimate in a matter of minutes.
> 
> *Product Warranty*
> Besides the trademarks over trademarks of features, the R1 Ultimate is offering up to six years warranty upon product registration. Each CRYORIG product (besides the CP9 Cryo-Paste) will come with a unique VIP Product Registration Card. By registering your product you not only extend your product warranty to the max of six years, you also instantly become a CRYORIG.com VIP member. VIP members are instantly eligible for our worldwide VIP prize draws, and get a chance to win limited edition products and more!
> 
> *Product Specifications
> 
> CRYORIG R1*
> 
> Dimension ( with fan ) L130 mm x W140 mm x H168.3 mm
> Weight ( with fan ) 1248 g
> Weight ( without fan ) 936 g
> Heat pipes 6mm heatpipe x 7 units
> Copper Base C1100 Pure copper nickel plated
> 
> *XF140*
> Dimension L140 mm x W140 mm x H25.4 mm
> Weight 156 g
> Rated Speed 700 ~ 1300 RPM ±10 %
> Noise Level 19 ~ 23 dBA
> Air Flow 76 CFM
> Connector 4Pin PWM
> 
> The CRYORIG R1 Ultimate is scheduled for release on Jan. 2014, in select countries and regions. North America, Japan and Korea MSRP is set at 89.95USD. Please stay tuned to CRYORIG.com for further launch information and regional pricing.
> 
> For detailed explanation of the R1 Ultimate please visit:
> http://www.cryorig.com/r1-ultimate.php
> 
> For full high-definition product photos of the CRYORIG R1 Ultimate, please visit:
> http://www.cryorig.com/p_gallery_lists.php


*Cooler Review links:*

http://pc.watch.impress.co.jp/docs/column/sebuncha/20140123_631932.html

Quote:


> *New Release! CRYORIG's XF140*
> 
> DECEMBER 25 2013, PM 02:49
> 
> CRYORIG is a fresh new comer to the PC peripherals and thermal solutions market but with a core team of veterans that have worked with some of the most renowned brands such Thermalright, Prolimatech and Phanteks. With our experience and drive for innovation and improvement we are proud to present our XF140 140mm PWM fan.
> 
> The CRYORIG XF140 is a high performance 140mm PWM heatsink and system fan. The XF140 utilizes CRYORIG's built in Acoustic Vibration Absorbers, as well as featuring our own HPLN™ (High Precision Low Noise) bearing to bring optimal noise to performance ratio.
> 
> Each XF140 comes with two additional sets of our signature Acoustic Vibration Absorbers, 1 red set and 1 white set. The Acoustic Vibration Absorbers are removable and swappable so you can switch on the color and style of your liking. Built to last, the XF140 offers a maximum 6 year warranty upon product registration. The XF140 also comes with a Molex Adapter, Custom Rubber Pins and a set of installation screws.
> 
> Product Specifications
> XF140
> Dimension L140 mm x W140 mm x H25.4 mm
> Weight 156 g
> Rated Speed 700 ~ 1300 RPM ±10 %
> Noise Level 19 ~ 23 dBA
> Air Flow 76 CFM
> Connector 4Pin PWM
> 
> For detailed information of the R1 Ultimate please visit:
> http://www.cryorig.com/xf140.php
> 
> For full high-definition product photos of the CRYORIG R1 Ultimate, please visit:
> http://www.cryorig.com/p_gallery_lists.php


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## jojoenglish85

awesome, where can we order?


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## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojoenglish85*
> 
> awesome, where can we order?


Know anybody in Japan or Korea?
















I know a few testing and review peeps have received them. I'm testing mine. But haven't received any information on retail / etail yet.

Here's a couple images I've taken of R1 Ultimate with TC14PE



Opening the R1 Ultimate box


Mounting hardware is good quality and well designed


Fans are very nice with removable mounting pads.


See how much the cooler is set back?


Frame removed from cooler


Cooler without frames and fans



Mounted on X58A-UD3R with Geil Value Plus RAM


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## doyll

*Differences between R1 Universal and R1 Ultimate*

The Universal uses the XT140 front fan which is 13mm thick and Ultimate uses XF140 front fan which is 25.4mm thick (I've measured 14mm & 27mm including vibration pads). R1 Ultimate and Universal are also not the same coolers Universal has heatpipes formed for more RAM clearance and fin paces are also slightly different for the same reason. This increases the cooler setback by another 4.5mm.


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## jojoenglish85

The Euro is too rich for my lowly American Currency


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## doyll

Keep in mind there is a 19% value added tax included in the Euro price.








But no sales tax.!!


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## doyll

Today two German retailers having them priced €69.90.

Have most of the testing done now. I have absolutely no complaints. The CryOrig mount is a pleasure to install, R1 Ultimate is beautiful and performs great. I'm not ready to say it's the best but it is definitely right up there.

I'm now building my Define R2 with the R1 Ultimate to use for a bit and take some photos.. LOL... My photo "skills" and "studio" are a joke, but will have some pics up hopefully tomorrow.

Than I'll be back on the test station for more testing of PH-TC14PE and Silver Arrow SB-E for comparison to R1 Ultimate. As soon as I start running these test I will be able to say just how good I think the R1 Ultimate really is.. but until than I don't actually have confirmed comparisons.

Reason is my original testing was done with a GA-EX58-UD3R under i7 920 and that changed to a GA-X58A-UD3R. Rest of components are the same... my gut feeling is test results if not identical will be very close to what they were before.. probably less than +/-2c.. and as much as I would like to have tighter tolerances, with all variables in play I believe it's realistic. Results are probably only +/-1c, but to be safe I'm saying +/-2c.


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## doyll

Vortez review. Only compare air coolers here. Their CLC results are about 4-7c lower than they should be compared to their air cooler results. (room temp as base temperature and not the actual air temp going into cooler / radiator)
Quote:


> Conclusion
> 
> Most reading this will have never heard of CRYORIG before because they are newcomers to the cooling market but this, their debut is filled with great prospects.
> 
> Straight out the box, it's clear to see CRYORIG are keen to make a lasting impression with R1 Ultimate. Packaging is attractive, well thought-out and the accessories bundle is laden with plenty of useful items - they've gone the extra mile.
> 
> CRYORIG's R1 Ultimate has been engineered to an extremely high standard. Unlike many newer manufacturers it evokes the mature sensibilities of a veteran design, with none of the 'rough around the edges' feel which less well-appointed coolers exhibit.
> 
> Not only does R1 Ultimate ooze style on just about every level, but it actually works. Too often do we find companies introducing dressed up innovations as part of their feature-sets which fail to deliver but this is not so with CRYORIG's new offering. During our stock, overclocked and passive tests this new cooler proved its worth and consistency, battling it out with some of the forerunners of the cooling league. Furthermore, the FX140 cooling fans needed only 1400RPM to achieve the results on the preceding pages whilst previously reviewed rival offerings required significantly more, thus bringing in unnecessary and unwanted noise.


http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/cryorig_r1_ultimate_review,9.html


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## JambonJovi

Another review on pureoverclock.com

http://www.pureoverclock.com/Review-detail/cryorig-r1-ultimate-cooler/


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## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JambonJovi*
> 
> Another review on pureoverclock.com
> 
> http://www.pureoverclock.com/Review-detail/cryorig-r1-ultimate-cooler/


Thanks for that.









Not sure I like the review.
Quote:


> WHAT WE LIKED:
> Great build quality, sturdy, excellent performance with high overclocks, quiet, easy installation.
> 
> WHAT WE DISLIKED:
> A little over priced, *requires Low Profile ram*


MSRP $89.99 is inline with other top cooler MSRP is. After all MSRP is what small shops sell for, not what huge chain and E-tailers charge.







German internet price is € 69.90.. Subract 19% VAT and that is close to $79.00... Same price as 14PE, NH-D14, Assassin, Silver Arrow SB-E, etc. So how is it over priced???
Does not require any lower ran than any other twin tower cooler and many single towers.

That's why CryOrig has the R1 Universal. 12-13mm less fan thickness means less RAM issues. (Rumors are the fins are farther from RAM too)

On my X58A-UD3R the fan clears my 37mm Geil Value Plus RAM (40.5mm above mobo).. or I can slide fan behind RAM. It just touches.


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## doyll

Vortez review says UK price is £53 (£44.17 + VAT).. although I have not seen anyone advertising it here yet. If that is true than about $73.00.

http://www.vortez.ne...e_review,9.html

Comparisons of R1 Ultimate show:
Silver Arrow SB-E Extreme 2.6c cooler,
Silverstone HE01 is only 0.5c cooler,
Dark Rock Pro 2 is 4.1c warmer,
NH-D14 SE2011 is 7.9c warmer.

Vortez only monitors room ambient, the themperature of air going into cooler / radiator.









Not using cooler/radiator intake air temp when testing in a case means CLCs have definite advantage over air coolers because they are ingesting cooler air.









CLC move more air through case (their fans are additional exhaust from case)
CLC dump all their own heated air outside of case
air coolers dump their heated air inside of case
raising the case air temperature
every degree warmer the air going into cooler/radiator is translates into CPU being warmer by similar amount

My hypothesis is that is why results of reviewers using case testing systems show CLCs having cooler CPU temps than top air coolers.. while open bench test station results show CLC and air coolers temps being very similar.

Regardless I monitor air temp going into cooler. That's the critical temperature, not what the room temp is.

I know


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## doyll

Keep in mind the fans on respective coolers too.
Silver Arrow SB-E Extreme 2.6c cooler with 2x 2500rpm @ 130cfm 45dBA each
Silverstone HE01 is only 0.5c cooler with 2000rpm @ 171cfm 43.5dBA
CryOrig R1 Ultimate with 2x XF140 1300rpm @ 76cfm & 23dBA each
Dark Rock Pro 2 is 4.1c warmer with 120mm/140mm fans 1500/1700rpm @ 67.8/113.8cfm & 19.8/26.4dBA
NH-D14 SE2011 is 7.9c warmer with 120mm/140mm fans 1300/1500rpm @ 54.3/61.6cfm & 19.8/19.6cBA
61.6


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## AlphaC

claes found a review
http://www.pureoverclock.com/Review-detail/cryorig-r1-ultimate-cooler/7/

(see http://www.overclock.net/t/1463903/ncix-us-noctua-nh-d14-59-99usd/10#post_21713462 , don't mind Belial raging on NH-D14...)


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## doyll

Thanks AlphaC. Isn't Antec Kulher 650 almost as good as NH-D14?


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## Minamoto

An interesting review.

http://www.nikktech.com/main/articles/pc-hardware/cpu-coolers/3015-cryorig-r1-ultimate-cpu-cooler


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## thebto

Thanks for sharing that review, it certainly was interesting to read through. And yet another review that mentions the memory clearance, even mentioning that's an issue with the front fan placed "correctly." If anything the overall design of the R1 is why I began considering it for my upcoming build; it's more forgiving with memory selection, the only issue is the ram slot closest to the CPU socket, and I'm thinking that if you're serious about getting RAM with really tall heat spreaders, you could even get a XT140 fan, and sacrifice a bit of cooling performance. Personally, I don't see much benefit getting RAM with tall heat spreaders, as I won't be running it at more that 1.5V.


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## arrow0309

Nice cooler!









So, do you guys think my RipjawsX (40mm height) would mount under the front fan?
It seems that there's quite the proper clearance:


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## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Nice cooler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, do you guys think my RipjawsX (40mm height) would mount under the front fan?
> It seems that there's quite the proper clearance:


Take a close look at the bottom of the ruler. It's at least 5mm above motherboard.
42mm* RAM just clears fan in highest position
44mm* RAM with fan setting on RAM

*Using Geil Value Plus RAM (37mm tall) leaves 5mm between top of RAM and bottom of fan, and gently lifting the fan up a 7mm spacer slips in easily.. meaning a little tweaking of fan clips and fan would stay up with 7mm clearance.

Edit:
Direct from cooler's mouth:
Quote:


> Just adding some numbers to Doyll's explanation: Since the mounting height of the fans are adjustable between 177mm total height to 168mm at the lowest. Subtracting the total height of the fan itself 140mm and the difference of the CPU face and DIMM prop up distance, you get a space of 177-140+(8-2) = 43mm for the tallest configuration and 34mm for the lowest. So RAM betwen 43mm~34mm will fit depending on your case.


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## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minamoto*
> 
> An interesting review.
> 
> http://www.nikktech.com/main/articles/pc-hardware/cpu-coolers/3015-cryorig-r1-ultimate-cpu-cooler


Thanks for finding another review.









First thing I notice is only a couple of coolers performed better; and even the best (H2O) is only by 4.6c costing almost 3 times more (£55 : £155)










It's odd how NH-U14S scores vary so much from test to test.


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## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Take a close look at the bottom of the ruler. It's at least 5mm above motherboard.
> 42mm* RAM just clears fan in highest position
> 44mm* RAM with fan setting on RAM
> 
> *Using Geil Value Plus RAM (37mm tall) leaves 5mm between top of RAM and bottom of fan, and gently lifting the fan up a 7mm spacer slips in easily.. meaning a little tweaking of fan clips and fan would stay up with 7mm clearance.


Perfect!








There's a good probability that it will be my new cpu cooler, are you sure the R1 is beating my D14?
According to guru3d there are really few "all in one" coolers better than a D14 on a 3770K @4.6Ghz:

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/corsair_h105_review,12.html

And one of them is the CM Eisberg wich is one of my favorite too


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## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Perfect!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a good probability that it will be my new cpu cooler, are you sure the R1 is beating my D14?
> According to guru3d there are really few "all in one" coolers better than a D14 on a 3770K @4.6Ghz:
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/corsair_h105_review,12.html
> 
> And one of them is the CM Eisberg wich is one of my favorite too


I can't swear Cryorig R1 Ultimate is better from personal experience as I haven't tested the NH-D14. But I can say R1 Ultimate out performs PH-TC14PE and Silver Arrow SB-E SE. It does not out perform the Silver Arrow SB-E Extreme but Extreme has 2x TY-143 fans with 130cfm 2500rpm each compared to R1 having 2x XF140 fans 75cfm 1300rpm fans. I expect R1 Ultimate to perform better when I test it with TY-143 fans.


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## doyll

Another review out. No comparison coolers but shows good detail images of cooler and install
http://www.coolaler.com/showthread.php/312311-%E5%A4%A7%E5%A1%94%E5%9E%8B%E6%95%A3%E7%86%B1%E5%99%A8-CRYORIG-R1-Ultimate-%E9%96%8B%E7%AE%B1%E6%B8%AC%E8%A9%A6?p=3211360


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## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Another review out. No comparison coolers but shows good detail images of cooler and install
> http://www.coolaler.com/showthread.php/312311-%E5%A4%A7%E5%A1%94%E5%9E%8B%E6%95%A3%E7%86%B1%E5%99%A8-CRYORIG-R1-Ultimate-%E9%96%8B%E7%AE%B1%E6%B8%AC%E8%A9%A6?p=3211360


Nice, and sexy















The ram clearance once again should be enough
And the 2600K @5ghz temps are excellent with or without the third fan, however I like the black fans, would there be the option for the fans color?


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## doyll

No fan color options yet. Accessory fans come with 3 sets of vibration / shock pads in red, white and black.


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## Seid Dark

Those 2600K temps with 1.515v are incredible


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## doyll

As soon as my test system is back up the plan is to push my i7 920 harder/hotter and run test on PH-TC14PE with stock and TY-143 fans... than put R1 back on and see how it does with TY-143 fans.


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## doyll

Found a Cryorig R1 Ultimate review with Silver Arrow, PH-TC14PE and NH-D14 in. R1 beats them all by 3c!


Notice R1 Ultimate dBA on AMD at 45c is more than 5dBA quieter than Silver Arrow; more than 10dBA quieter than PH-TC14PE, and on Intel at 53c is just barely quieter than PH-TC14PE; 1dBA quiter than NH-D14


The different in performance between Phenom II X 4 965BE 140W @ 3.8 GHz & 1.5V, and i7 860 @ 3.8 GHz and 1.3V is interesting.









 Noise and price were only problems.. and I don't notice the noise difference they show.









http://www.comptoir-hardware.com/articles/refroidissement/23850-test-cryorig-r1-ultimate.html?start=2


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## arrow0309

Nice performance of the Cryorig R1









However, you're wrong about the temps, the 53 are the db and not °C (on Intel platform)
Easy to see the R1 is the coolest but also the loudest cooler on max speed

Still a great and good looking High End twin tower


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## doyll

My bad.
Should have said "R1 Ultimate on Intel at 53dBA is just barely cooler than PH-TC14PE; over 1c cooler than NH-D14."
I still knew what I meant.. I think.

At 52dBA Cryorig R1 Ultimate and PH-TC14PE are the same temp (63.5c) & dBA; NH-D14 is 64.5c & same dBA; and CNPS12X is 66c & same dBA.

Dark Rock Pro 2 is same temp as PH-TC14PE but 4dBA quieter.


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## AlphaC

doyll it seems like low fan speed is not as great on Cryorig for Intel? (9V and 7V fan speed, I'm assuming that's ~1000RPM and ~700RPM)

For AMD it seems that it does better by ~5°C compared to Phanteks + silver Arrow









Passive performance contradicts earlier reviews that suggest it was bad not stellar for passive operation, it just seems it's not as good on Intel (maybe due to die size or whatever).



Ph II x4 965BE = 258mm2
i7-860 = 296 mm2

So it befuddles me , since the only thing else I can think of is the heat load. The Phenom II X4 965BE is pushing 1.5V instead of 1.3V


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## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> doyll it seems like low fan speed is not as great on Cryorig for Intel? (9V and 7V fan speed, I'm assuming that's ~1000RPM and ~700RPM)
> 
> For AMD it seems that it does better by ~5°C compared to Phanteks + silver Arrow


Not sure of rpm to voltage. I'll have to set up a voltage test to see. I just use rpm readings.

Not sure about the AMD readings. Would be interesting to know if 40-50c versus 60-70c cooling ranges are why the AMD results are somewhat different.

When testing I hadn't notice R1 being loud so after reading the review I had to fire up 14PE and R1 at full speed to see if I noticed as much volume difference. Yes, side by side I could tell the R1 is a little louder but not by much.. and it's not an unpleasant sound.


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## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> doyll it seems like low fan speed is not as great on Cryorig for Intel? (9V and 7V fan speed, I'm assuming that's ~1000RPM and ~700RPM)
> 
> For AMD it seems that it does better by ~5°C compared to Phanteks + silver Arrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Passive performance contradicts earlier reviews that suggest it was bad not stellar for passive operation, it just seems it's not as good on Intel (maybe due to die size or whatever).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ph II x4 965BE = 258mm2
> i7-860 = 296 mm2
> 
> So it befuddles me , since the only thing else I can think of is the heat load. The Phenom II X4 965BE is pushing 1.5V instead of 1.3V


According to this:



There are no coolers getting better performance at low rpms (7v) and however they all stay at 70°C (PH-TC14PE, Silver Arrow an the Cryorig R1)
The NH-D14 is only shown at 9v and 68°C, the graphic do not show its 7v perf/noise

Yeah, generally perform better on AMD however it remains the sexiest cooler ever made








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Not sure of rpm to voltage. I'll have to set up a voltage test to see. I just use rpm readings.
> 
> Not sure about the AMD readings. Would be interesting to know if 40-50c versus 60-70c cooling ranges are why the AMD results are somewhat different.
> 
> *When testing I hadn't notice R1 being loud* so after reading the review I had to fire up 14PE and R1 at full speed to see if I noticed as much volume difference. Yes, side by side I could tell the R1 is *a little louder but not by much.. and it's not an unpleasant sound.*


Really happy to hear about your noise testing


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## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *When testing I hadn't notice R1 being loud* so after reading the review I had to fire up 14PE and R1 at full speed to see if I noticed as much volume difference. Yes, side by side I could tell the R1 is *a little louder but not by much.. and it's not an unpleasant sound.*
> 
> 
> 
> Really happy to hear about your noise testing
Click to expand...

All I was trying to do was verifying with my ears what scientific data shows.

If you don't like what I post move on. I've put much time and energy into comparing and testing. Are you doing anything to help?

Sorry, I don't have a sound meter.

Sound studies tell us time and again that a 3dBA increase in sound level is barely noticeable to the human ear. In fact, you have to raise a sound level by 5dBA before most listeners report a noticeable or significant change.

My ears can hear a 2dBA change.

It takes a 10dBA increase before the average listener hears "double the sound."


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> All I was trying to do was verifying with my ears what scientific data shows.
> 
> If you don't like what I post move on. I've put much time and energy into comparing and testing. Are you doing anything to help?
> 
> Sorry, I don't have a sound meter.
> 
> Sound studies tell us time and again that a 3dBA increase in sound level is barely noticeable to the human ear. In fact, you have to raise a sound level by 5dBA before most listeners report a noticeable or significant change.
> 
> My ears can hear a 2dBA change.
> 
> It takes a 10dBA increase before the average listener hears "double the sound."


Is because of my English that I got misunderstood?








I only wanted to underline the noise of the Cryorig R1 according to your testing as not so loud and definitely *not unpleasant* even at its max rpms
And all because *I do like* the new high end Cryorig R1 cooler and wanna get one soon

All clear now?

P.S.:
I don't see how I could help without the Cryorig R1
As soon as'll get one would do some testings with the stock fans and with these 3 Gentle Typhoon AP-29, Thermalright TY-143 and Silverstone FHP141 (that I own) as well:


----------



## doyll

I translated the explanation of the "Mesures de performances brutes" and "Mesures de performances en semi-passif" testing.

*Mesures de performances brutes*

We will begin by testing the performance 'raw' of the ventirad, i.e. with the breakdown provided in bundle and its modes of operation clean (PWM? Potentiometer? Etc. ). If it is a radiator sold only, we also will add him a Noctua NF-P12 or a Thermalright TY-140 depending on the configuration as possible, in order to have all of the same measures to present.
In speaking of measures, we will proceed to the tests in idle (rest) and load (load) of the CPU, under OCCT 3.1.0 to the load, and we may cite the CPU temperature under Core Temp 0.99.6 and noise with a sound level meter placed at 5cm above the radiator.



*Mesures de performances en semi-passif*

Finally, we wanted to test our coolers in very demanding conditions of a passive mode, or more precisely, semi-passive, because our processors and thermal clearances can not be considered a truly passive operation (without any air flow around). We put a Noctua NF-P12 LNA (silently) not on the cooler, but at the back of the motherboard at its connectors, location thus corresponding with the 'exhaust' fan on most towers.

Two types of temperature measurements have been carried out, first after 30 minutes of 'rest', with just the desktop of Windows 7 and classic process running (antivirus, etc.) in order to see at what temperature the cooler manages to stabilize our CPU at. Then a more extreme case, we put our CPU in full load, until reaching a temperature 'critical' for our processors, at the extreme limit of stability, respectively measured at 70 ° C for the AMD Phenom II X 4 965BE and 90 ° C for the Intel Core i7 860. Reaching this temperature in OCCT, we than cut the CPU load of the software and start the stopwatch. At the end of 5 minutes, the CPU temperature is then measured, in order to see the capacity of the coolers to expel this whole heat accumulated.

*Temperature after system idles for 30 minutes*


*Temperature 5 minutes after dropping CPUs to idle after reaching 70c on AMD and 90c on Intel*


On AMD:
Cryorig R1 with 30 minutes at idle was 5c cooler than it was with 5 minutes after reaching 70c (32c-47c)
PH-TC14PE with 30 minutes at idle was 7c cooler than it was with 5 minutes idle after reaching 70c (46c-53c)
NH-D14 with 30 minutes at idle was 8c cooler than it was with 5 minutes after reaching 70c (37c-45c)

On Intel:
Cryorig R1 with 30 minutes at idle was 3c cooler than it was with 5 minutes after reaching 90c (44c-47c)
PH-TC14PE with 30 minutes at idle was 1c cooler than it was with 5 minutes idle after reaching 90c (42c-43c)
NH-D14 with 30 minutes at idle was 4c cooler than it was with 5 minutes after reaching 90c (43c-47c)

Interesting data but not quite sure how much that means to us. Intel CPUs cool off quicker from 90c?


----------



## ehume

A new review of this heatsink is here. Dave Mitchelson takes exquisite pics, as well as performing competent measurements. He also looks at passive performance.


----------



## AlphaC

Thanks ehume!

Seems all the prior reviews were right about passive performance being so-so compared to previous coolers for the price they're asking. It's excusable since it's not advertised as a passive cooler like the Silverstone HE02 is (or the new HR-22 from Thermalright).

I wonder if there would be a difference if an AMD CPU was used instead of the i7-3930K.

P.S. I wonder if it would have performed even better than it did had the base been buffed.


----------



## doyll

Do catch up ehume.








Vortez review was posted 10 days ago (post #8).
Dave's RAM clearance measurement isn't accurate.







But his images are nice!








"Approximately 4cm of total height." iin actuality is 45mm total height.










Cryorig says 34-43mm RAM
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Just adding some numbers to Doyll's explanation:
> 
> Since the mounting height of the fans are adjustable between 177mm total height to 168mm at the lowest. Subtracting the total height of the fan itself 140mm and the difference of the CPU face and DIMM prop up distance, you get a space of
> 177-140+(8-2) = 43mm for the tallest configuration and 34mm for the lowest.
> So RAM betwen 43mm~34mm will fit depending on your case.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1449176/cryorig-annouces-new-cooler-line/80_20#post_21647460


----------



## arrow0309

*Cryorig R1 Ultimate CPU Cooler Tweaktown*


----------



## doyll

Was just reading and about to post the link myself.









Nicely done review. I found it interesting that the Assassin / K2 has slightly lower temps, although well within a +/-0.75c margin of error. Wish there were other top coolers like NH-D14, Silver Arrow, PH-TC14PE for comparisons. I was just starting TC14PE comparison testing when my test system died, What little I had done was showing R1 Ultimate was appearing to cool better than 14PE, but didn't finish enough runs to say for sure. Hopefully will have system back up soon and can give more data.


----------



## arrow0309

I agree about the "slightly" lower performance of the Cryorig *in this review* and of the lack of the older Top coolers comparison and I only liked the ram clearance shown once again, not only with the low profile ram (they tested with the tridentx like I used to have before, with the top fin flame of the heatspredder removed):



As we can see, there's enough compatibility with plenty of ram models and not only with the low profile kits









Btw:
What happened to your system?


----------



## doyll

Motherboard threw a hissie-fit... Wish it had been CPU. Easy and cheap to find i7-9xx / 1366 CPUs but not so easy or cheap to find motherboards. Really want a GA-X58A-OC but that's just a dream.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Motherboard threw a hissie-fit... Wish it had been CPU. Easy and cheap to find i7-9xx / 1366 CPUs but not so easy or cheap to find motherboards. Really want a GA-X58A-OC but that's just a dream.


I know, I was searching that mobo myself one year ago and then I decided to change and got the GA-Z77X-UP5 TH
Btw. if you wanna swap to the Z77 & Ivy bridge I could sell you the UP5 (in warranty and acquired from Amazon.com.uk)










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Consider that a good X58 mainboard is still expensive, here's one on our main italian forum:

http://www.hwupgrade.it/forum/showthread.php?t=2630310

And here's my UP5:









http://www.hwupgrade.it/forum/showthread.php?t=2626663


----------



## Domiro

Just realised my current RAM is 44.5 mm tall. May have to resort to the Universal then, rather than the Ultimate.

Bummer.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> Just realised my current RAM is 44.5 mm tall. May have to resort to the Universal then, rather than the Ultimate.
> 
> Bummer.


Lesson learned: Don't buy tall RAM.


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Lesson learned: Don't buy tall RAM.


Aye.

Unless the difference between the Universal and Ultimate is small enough I may have to sand off 1mm or remove the heatspreaders altogether.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Lesson learned: Don't buy tall RAM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aye.
> 
> Unless the difference between the Universal and Ultimate is small enough I may have to sand off 1mm or remove the heatspreaders altogether.
Click to expand...

Horrors!!!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> Aye.
> 
> Unless the difference between the Universal and Ultimate is small enough I may have to sand off 1mm or remove the heatspreaders altogether.


Hopefully with fan setting on RAM the side cover will fit. I've built a few where I was springing the side cover a little to get it on.









Heat spreaders are a joke. Some report lower temps with spreaders removed.
Quote:


> We've noticed in several past reviews that heat spreaders appear to hinder heat transfer slightly at 1.65V, likely because the low heat produced at this voltage doesn't efficiently penetrate the thermal interface material, which typically consists of double-sided foil tape. Lacking heat spreaders, Crucial's DDR3-1333 CAS 9 modules once again outpace the competition. This is something that power users must consider when seeking the highest possible memory capacity and frequency in the same part.


http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1594304

Google has many removal instructions.

To remove Corsair Vengeance heat spreader:

Peel off the sticker along the top that's connecting the two sides together
Warm up with air dryer or heat gun makes the glue come loose easier
Use a little flat head to pry the nubs out of the slots on both edges
Slowly and gently pry both spreaders off the chips. Some of the stretchy tape will stay on the spreader, and some on the chips.
Clean the gunk off the chips.


----------



## Domiro

Yeah, I already found the how-to for it. Although even if I'm removing these spreaders, I'd still want something else on there, purely for aesthetics. That or I may just seat the front fan ontop of the stick.

On a sidenote - I noticed when getting the R1 here in The Netherlands I don't get the extra XF140, while I do get if I were to order in Germany.


----------



## doyll

Interesting. I thought all of these first release came with the free fan. Who is the supplier in Netherlands?

I just re-measured R1. From bottom front of plastic is 40mm to heatsink face. Add 8mm to motherboard and subract 3mm for RAM socket leaves 45mm so you should be okay.


----------



## Domiro

Currently one shop directly sells it (maxict.nl) but their reputation is questionable. That said, just got off the phone from alternate.nl and they're happy to send one from their German depot for 5 euros extra.


----------



## doyll

Think I sent you a PM


----------



## arrow0309

Guys I'm pleased to inform you that I'm one of yours officially








Ordered the R1 Ultimate this very afternoon here:

http://www.alternate.de/Cryorig/R1_Ultimate,_CPU-Kuehler/html/product/1120919/?

Can't wait to get it installed and will do some testings too


----------



## Domiro

Grats!

Ordered mine last Friday.


----------



## doyll

Congrats Arrow!








Congrats Domiro!









Very interested in your first impressions when you get them and open them up.. and of course installation and performance too.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Congrats Arrow!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats Domiro!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Very interested in your first impressions when you get them and open them up*.. and of course installation and performance too.


Thanks!
That'll be sweet and sexy


----------



## doyll

LOL
Pictures do not do Cryorig R1 Ultimate justice.


----------



## Minamoto

One more review of the Cryorig R1 Ultimate.

http://hardocp.com/article/2014/03/04/cryorig_r1_ultimate_cpu_air_cooler_review#.UxbM1oX1Yyo


----------



## doyll

Another one here too
http://www.xfastest.com/cms/tid-130664/


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Another one here too
> http://www.xfastest.com/cms/tid-130664/


Nice pics and temps also








However I'd have preferred to see some serious stress test on the 4770K OC rather than the occt gpu test
But maybe It'll do enough temp as well since is the integrated graphics of the cpu at 100% involved in the test

I'll try that myself too


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minamoto*
> 
> One more review of the Cryorig R1 Ultimate.
> 
> http://hardocp.com/article/2014/03/04/cryorig_r1_ultimate_cpu_air_cooler_review#.UxbM1oX1Yyo


Just read through this review.

I don't like it.. at all. They removed the fan clip / fin pack cover and raised the fan way above where it is supposed to set because they are using 52.5mm tall Vengeance RAM. I would be surprised if this did not compromised the cooling ability of R1 Ultimate by at least 1-3c, possibly more.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Will be ordering the universal once its available in the US. Everywhere says february, but this is march....


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Minamoto*
> 
> One more review of the Cryorig R1 Ultimate.
> 
> http://hardocp.com/article/2014/03/04/cryorig_r1_ultimate_cpu_air_cooler_review#.UxbM1oX1Yyo
> 
> 
> 
> Just read through this review.
> 
> I don't like it.. at all. They removed the fan clip / fin pack cover and raised the fan way above where it is supposed to set because they are using 52.5mm tall Vengeance RAM. I would be surprised if this did not compromised the cooling ability of R1 Ultimate by at least 1-3c, possibly more.
Click to expand...

I agree.
Hope only that my RipjawsX (40mm) won't interfere that much clearing enough for a decent cooling


----------



## JambonJovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Just read through this review.
> 
> I don't like it.. at all. They removed the fan clip / fin pack cover and raised the fan way above where it is supposed to set because they are using 52.5mm tall Vengeance RAM. I would be surprised if this did not compromised the cooling ability of R1 Ultimate by at least 1-3c, possibly more.


I agree with you. Review was very meh. Moving the fan that high up is ridiculous








But they did use the proper configuration when testing from what I read.

Quote:


> In our case though we had no choice but to remove a stick of RAM and run our system in single channel mode. We could have run the R1 using one fan and kept both sticks of RAM but this would impact the R1 Ultimate's design profile and we did not want to do that.


----------



## doyll

Seems they are editing the review.
It now reads
Quote:


> In our case we were unable to move the fan upwards on the heatsink since this would cause the fan to block the side lid of our chassis from closing. Given this precarious situation I decided I would test the cooler by removing the RAM stick from the motherboard and run with only one RAM module in single channel mode.


----------



## Hukkel

I think this thing looks amazing!

I wish they also did 120mm fans. I'd like to use these in a mod for sure!


----------



## AlphaC

http://www.xtremehardware.com/cooling/air/cryorig-r1-ultimate-una-nuova-realta-201403079619/?start=9

another review (in Italian)

It's not the greatest for heatsink reviews since NH-U14S is on par with Cryorig somehow


----------



## JambonJovi

Those dirty manky rotten Noctua fans on the beautiful R1 ?!
WHY ITALIANS, WHY ?!


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> http://www.xtremehardware.com/cooling/air/cryorig-r1-ultimate-una-nuova-realta-201403079619/?start=9
> 
> another review (in Italian)
> 
> It's not the greatest for heatsink reviews since NH-U14S is on par with Cryorig somehow


I agree, however the review was pretty complete and accurate, they may have applied a bit too much tim

@JambonJovi
You're definitely overreacting








I don't like the Noctua fans color (never used them on my D14) but no one can deny their performance/ noise ratio
They're using once that fan formula for testing only (and not recommending it):

http://www.xtremehardware.com/cooling/air/cryorig-r1-ultimate-una-nuova-realta-201403079619/?start=10

Quote:
_"Sarebbe possibile cambiare la ventola in dotazione ma ne sconsigliamo la sostituzione perché è un ottimo modello. "_

Translated:

_"It is possible to change the bundled fan but we're not advising the fan replacement since is a top model"_

The complete R1 Ultimate fan tests is shown here (with the both 4Gb and 12Gb of ram for a higher cpu Imc stress):


----------



## arrow0309

I've just installed my new R1 Ultimate too yesterday and do some testing with a 2600K @4.6Ghz that I'm gonna post soon
Some pics:












@ doyll
I'm gonna remove the cooler, check the tim contact patch (I used the Gelid GC-Extreme) and change the 2600K with a new 3770K (undelidded) and test the Ivy bridge
Am I doing good using the GC-Extreme mid/high viscosity tim or I should better use the CP9 CRYO-Paste bundled (that seems easier to apply)?
Is this one a top tim?


----------



## doyll

Looks very nice in there!

Checking the TIM print is always good idea.
Look forward to seeing your performance results.


----------



## arrow0309

I had applied too much paste (GC-Extreme) on my 2600K, now I've put some (X shape) CP9 Cryopaste upon my new 3770K, testing right now

I noticed when I was mounting the cooler (right before screwing the two springs) that there's another small screw at the center of the plate with the two spring screws and in my case it wasn't tighten. So I did screw it in a bit and in the end (after I fully tightening the two spring screws) finish screwing the small central screw as well.
Did you notice the fact, do I have to screw it tight before or after the two spring screws? Or it simply has to remain always tighten to the cooler's base (and not hanging loosely)?


----------



## doyll

The little center screw is only to hold the crossbar in place. Once the two spring loaded mounting screws are started it does nothing.

The whole CPU cover does not need to be covered by the TIM imprint. On 3770k the chips are in a line in middle from top to bottom. Same direction as RAM. This area is where all the heat comes from. My would guess a short line would work best. A lot depends on how the TIM you are using spreads. They do not all spread the same.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-heat-sink-heat-spreader,3600.html

My would guess a short line would work best. A lot depends on how the TIM you are using spreads. They do not all spread the same. This video show how much different the silicone spreads compared to AS 3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyXLu1Ms-q4

As I usually use the same TIM for all my builds (CF III) I wipe CPU and cooler clean but do not use any solvent. This is called "timming". The theory is that having a little TIM on cooler and CPU rather than super clean metal helps spread the rice grain to small pea size TIM better, similar to tinning metal before soldering it together.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> http://www.xtremehardware.com/cooling/air/cryorig-r1-ultimate-una-nuova-realta-201403079619/?start=9
> 
> another review (in Italian)
> 
> It's not the greatest for heatsink reviews since NH-U14S is on par with Cryorig somehow


It's not bad. Very in depth. NH-U14S seems to review results vary quite a bit. Some of the ones I trust the most show it being very good. TheLab.gr have Akasa Medusa 26.7c, Silver Arrow SB-E 26.9c, NH-U14S 27c & PH-TC14PE 27.4c at 345w.

Cooler Model . . . . . Fan . . . . . . . CFM . . . 345.1W 289.9W 232.1W 175.4W 117.1W dBA
Akasa Medusa . . . . FN059,/FN073 84/74 . . 26.7 . . 22.5 . . 18.7 . . 13.7 . . 10.1 . . 48.1
Silver Arrow SB-E. . TY-140TY-150 84/74 . . 26.9 . . 22.8 . . 18.7 . . 14.1 . . 9.5. . . 37.4
Noctua NH-U14S . . 1x NF-A15 . . . 1x 82.5 . 27.0 . . 22.9 . . 19.4 . . 14.9 . . 10.6 . . 35.8
PH-TC14PE Black . . 2x PH-F140. . . 2x 88.6 . 27.4 . . 23.5 . . 19.2 . . 14.1 . . 9.9. . . 41.3
Dark Rock Pro 2 . . T12025/T13525. 68/57 . . 28.2 . . 25.9 . . 20.2 . . 16.4 . . 11.2 . . 38.2
_Megahalems . . . . . 2x FN059 . . . . 2x 83.6 . 30.4 . . 25.8 . . 23.4 . . 16.0 . . 11.5 . . 46.5_
Noctua NH-D14 . . . 2x NF-P14 . . . 2x 64.9 . 30.6 . . 26.2 . . 21.3 . . 16.3 . . 11.8 . . 38.2

http://www.thelab.gr/heatsinks-coolers-watercooling-reviews/cpu-cooler-review-database-89014.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309*
> 
> I agree, however the review was pretty complete and accurate, they may have applied a bit too much tim


I noticed that too.


----------



## CrazyElf

Are there any reviews with Apples to Apples? (Ex: Fit 3 fans of the same type and compare to other coolers in this category with the same 3 fans, like the Phanteks)?


----------



## arrow0309

*Cryorig R1 Ultimate CPU Cooler @ Tweak.dk (dk)*


----------



## doyll

Inside Hardware ran R1 Ultimate against Antec 920v4 H105 & H100i, but none of the top air coolers.
http://www.insidehardware.it/hardware/cooling/3463-cryorig-r1-ultimate-dagli-enthusiast-per-gli-enthusiast?start=5#content


----------



## arrow0309

WOW!









And the winner is ...


----------



## doyll

So what are your thoughts now that you have your R1? What do you think of the mount, ease of mounting, looks, performance, etc.?


----------



## arrow0309

Everything it's OK, the mounting is fine and the performance is great








The bundled TIM (I'm using) is phenomenal, better than even the GC-Extreme IMHO and thanks for the tip when cleaning only a bit the cooler's base









The cooler can easily handle even a SB 2600K at 5ghz, personally tested:









http://s27.postimg.org/xekfp3d8h/5_0_Ghz_Fixed_1_395_LLC1_shot1.jpg
http://s27.postimg.org/ciy5duh1d/5_0_Ghz_Fixed_1_395_LLC1_shot2_cut.jpg

I still have to test it with my new 3770K cpu (recently got from a RMA) as soon as it returns from a friend. He's testing the cpu and my Ripjaws at 2133 on his OC Formula cause I'm having issues with my mobo.
So I'm still on the SB, I'll come back with more results and a D14 / R1 comparison soon

I'm also happy of the two XF140, getting with my OC Formula (cpu_fan1 + Y splitter) 1400+ rpm at full speed.
They are making some noise too but cooling enough. And I'm controlling them with the speedfan and different ratios (%) of min / max for browsing, for gaming and for benching


----------



## AlphaC

http://www.hardware.fr/focus/96/cryorig-xf140-test.html

Respectable results


----------



## doyll

Indeed it is.









In their graph with all fans I selected their reference fan, PH-F140TS, TY-141, XF140 TY-141 & XF140 are almost the same.. and we know how good TY-14x fans are.








For those that don't know, you can click on fan in list to add / remove fan from graph.








http://www.hardware.fr/articles/886-26/recapitulatif-db-a-vs-cfm.html


----------



## Domiro

Just received my R1 Ultimate. Not been able to install it yet, but the look and feel are incredible. Already had the XT140 fans so I wasn't surprised how fell-made the XF140 feels. Also appreciate the tools; extra acoustic dampers for the fans, PWM splitter, wireclips for a 3rd fan and even a fancy-pancy screwdriver. Only downside while unpacking is the lack of the 3rd fan.

Will report once installed and running.


----------



## doyll

Sound good Domiro. Look forward to hearing your thoughts and seeing how well it cools for you. I know it will not disappoint you.


----------



## Domiro

All up and running, for the moment.

Installation was easy enough, little weird that the rear mounting bracket is meant to hang loosely before mounting the rest. Getting the two screws aligned was a little difficult, but mainly due to the mainboard's heatsink obstructing visual on the top screw. It's a neat system, including the heatsink's fins having a gap that's centered above the screws. I'd mount it before assembling the mainboard in the case though.

The thermal paste is good, very good. Matter of fact, I applied less than the usual rice grain worth of paste. I checked after mounting without having fastened the heatsink yet; the paste spread evenly and neatly.

Idling around 21C with an ambient of 17C, an hour worth of BF4 and highest recorded was 44C. Noise is louder, but then that's compared to a single 120mm. Once the rest of my machine is done (and I find time for it) I'll start OCing and see how it fares.

The one problem i'm running into currently is a horrible PWM ticking from the XT140 exhaust. Note sure what's causing it, yet.


----------



## doyll

I wasn't thinking. Should have suggested doing a practice install without TIM to figure out how to set cooling so crossbar screws line up. Sorry.









When I practice fit mine I noticed the crossbar screws set into threaded hole nicely, but did notice the ridge around it.









I normally mount coolers with mobo out of case and look under cooler as I set it down to line everything up.

Try setting the PWM speed curve to lower rpm. I run min 20%rpm at 20c and 100% at 60c. When CPU is 44c fans are about 950rpm. I think you will be surprised how low the rpm can be and still cool very well.









Have you verified the tick is in motor / PWM or is it possibly a blade touching something?


----------



## Domiro

Yeah, used the crossbars as guidance and simply looked down the heatsink onto the MB and aligned it by eye.

I checked the ticking; no obstructions and the blades aren't hitting anything (Rear mesh is pushed outwards anyway). I'll try another XT140 tomorrow and see what happens.


----------



## doyll

If it's a bad fan I"m sure Cryorig customer support will sort you out.


----------



## arrow0309

I've just made a deal with a friend and change my RipjawsX 2133 (2x8Gb) with these nice Geil Evo Corsa 2133 cl 10-11-11 @1.5v fully tested and compatible with my mobo and 3770K:



So I'll soon (have to) get a new "slim" XT140 fan to use as push fan due to the new ram clearance and placing this way the XF140 as third fan









Do you guys think that (in this 3 fan formula) due to the inferior XT140 cfm/pressure performance would I get higher core temps, even by 1°C or even less?

Thanks, and I'll let you know of the results, certainly the yellow look of the new Geil will "fit" nicely with my yellowish Z77 OC Formula
Will come back with pics too


----------



## doyll

Difference won't be enough to make a difference. R&R cooler and TIM seat could easily make as much or more difference.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Anyone have any news on availability for this in the U.K? Google has failed me so far


----------



## doyll

Alternate is selling them. They are shipping them over from Germany. £69.80 delivered.
http://www.alternate.co.uk/Cryorig/R1-Ultimate/html/product/1120919?


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Well now that is tempting, I've been eyeing up the Silver Arrow IB-E about the same price from Scan..

I assume Alternate U.K to be trustworthy? Can't say I've heard of them before.

Thanks for the tip


----------



## doyll

Alternate is Cryorig's main EU distributor.








They have websites in many countries.


----------



## arrow0309

I agree, mine was purchased from the Italian Alternate website.
But was shipped from Germany.
And they are fast too, now I'm gonna get a slim XT140 fan


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Cool ta guys, I'm just used to buying at the same few U.K shops and the fear of change got me







Read some reassuring site reviews and now from the horses mouth, mines on the way.


----------



## arrow0309

I think I'm gonna get the Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 14 due to its better full speed performance (as front push) fan instead of the XT140, what do you think?

http://www.prolimatech.com/en/products/detail.asp?id=1906&subid=1908#showtab

Found them new, at 18 Euro shipped


----------



## veryrarium

Here is a review of the R1 Universal by the same reviewer as the one for R1 Ultimate linked in the OP in Japanese
http://pc.watch.impress.co.jp/docs/column/sebuncha/20140326_641273.html


----------



## doyll

Thanks veryrarium.









R1 Universal is 1c warmer than R1 Ultimate.


----------



## arrow0309

My new R1 Hybrid






















Temps are about the same I had with one R4 sickleflow and two XF140


----------



## doyll

Another review with R1 showing how good it is!

http://www.pureoverclock.com/Review-detail/cryorig-r1-ultimate-cooler/7/

and another
















http://www.insidehardware.it/hardware/cooling/3463-cryorig-r1-ultimate-dagli-enthusiast-per-gli-enthusiast?start=5#content


----------



## arrow0309

Nice, review








I have to re-install the third fan!


----------



## arrow0309

In the end I decided to remove the (useless) third fan and somehow I managed to mount a 140x25 (good) front fan, the Scythe Kaze Maru 2, 1700rpm even with my "tall" Geil Evo Corsa 2x4Gb sticks


















As you can see it fits nicely so I found another use of the 140x15mm Prolimatech USV fan, vga intake








The cpu temps are also godd for a undelidded (yet) 3770K @4.7Ghz, only 60° C max after a couple of 3DMark13 suite of benches











Excellent Top Cpu Premium Cooler


----------



## ehume

@arrow0309

Good looking build. I am seeing the

KM2, and what looks like a TR TY-14x VGA intake. I am not seeing a 140x15mm Prolimatech.

BTW -- as much as I love the KM2, it is a sleeve bearing fan. I have thus used the KM2 as a case fan but not as a heatsink fan. But since your mid-heatsink fan is the original, you should be OK. Just keep at eye on it and re-lube it ever six months or so (see my sig).


----------



## doyll

Nice!

Slip Stream / Kaze Maru 2 is very good.. as is the TY-140 variant you have with black housing.









What are your front and bottom intake fans?


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> @arrow0309
> 
> Good looking build. I am seeing the
> KM2, and what looks like a TR TY-14x VGA intake. I am not seeing a 140x15mm Prolimatech.
> 
> BTW -- as much as I love the KM2, it is a sleeve bearing fan. I have thus used the KM2 as a case fan but not as a heatsink fan. But since your mid-heatsink fan is the original, you should be OK. Just keep at eye on it and re-lube it ever six months or so (see my sig).


Thanks!

The Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex went down, under the video card:

http://s14.postimg.org/opvs9bpzz/baaa4653_20140403139651612517778.jpg

You have to look better on the above pics








As for the KM2-1700, I know it's a great sleeve fan and yes, I'll lubricate it once again (if it will live long enough)








Right now is rpm controlled by the cpu_fan2 (3pin) header of my OC Formula via Speedfan, I'm using one % only for the both Cryorig pwm (cpu_fan1) and the KM2








And I have to tell you about the "weird" cpu fans of my mobo (one 4pin and the second 3pin), working about the same with the Speedfan as with the Asrock's software, FanTastic:
The first, pwm fan will reach its max rpm's at ~70/75% (speedfan) meanwhile the second, 3 pin fan (in my case the KM2) will need the 100% to get its max.
Works for me!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> Slip Stream / Kaze Maru 2 is very good.. as is the TY-140 variant you have with black housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are your front and bottom intake fans?


Thanks!

The front intake is the stock, 200mm CM fan, 700rpm
The bottom and side intakes are two Gentle Typhoons, the AP-15 @1850 rpm (a bit lower actually)


----------



## doyll

Good fans all around. I suspect your CPU fan header is functioning on variable voltage. That's the only way it can control both the 4-pin PWM and 3-pin voltage control fans.


----------



## ehume

Doh! I was looking in the wrong spot for the 140x15!


----------



## arrow0309

I'm loving the performance of our Cryorig, heavily outperforming the new Noctua's monster, the D15
















http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/noctua_nh_d15_review,9.html


----------



## doyll

I'm also very happy with my R1 Ultimate. The combination of looks, performance and low noise level make it a winner!

I'm sure more would be selling if they were easier to get.


----------



## Satanello

Hi all, r1 Ultimate just ordered! In some days we will see how it perform on Amd 9590 

Inviato dal mio SM-N9005 utilizzando Tapatalk


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Satanello*
> 
> Hi all, r1 Ultimate just ordered! In some days we will see how it perform on Amd 9590
> 
> Inviato dal mio SM-N9005 utilizzando Tapatalk


Welcome to our mad little bunch.








Look forward to hearing your first impressions when you open it up and install it. Than what you think of it's performance.


----------



## niklot1981




----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niklot1981*


Nice, in the end I think I'll have to buy one


----------



## Satanello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Satanello*
> 
> Hi all, r1 Ultimate just ordered! In some days we will see how it perform on Amd 9590
> 
> Inviato dal mio SM-N9005 utilizzando Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome to our mad little bunch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look forward to hearing your first impressions when you open it up and install it. Than what you think of it's performance.
Click to expand...

R1 is in my hands! I the next days i'll install and test.

Inviato dal mio SM-N9005 utilizzando Tapatalk


----------



## doyll

Good news!


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Good luck ! I'm loving mine, I expect your 9590 will give it a good work out


----------



## Nicola1989

hi, I have offered to swap my noctua nh-u14s with cryorig r1 universal, do you think it is worth exchanging, I would have improvements in a cool 'amd fx 8350? thanks in advance


----------



## doyll

I prefer the looks of Cryorig R1 but honestly the difference in cooling between them is very little. Both give top cooling and are top quality.


----------



## niklot1981




----------



## arrow0309

*CRYORIG R1 Universal @ techPowerUp!*


----------



## doyll

Thanks!


----------



## Domiro

Great review, I wonder how the Ultimate would compare in the same test. Or at least swap the 3rd XT140 for an XF140.


----------



## Dyaems

If only this will fit inside my case since I can buy it without problems or expensive shipping/taxes. So I am waiting for the C1 instead which has crazy delays







Its already May, and they said they will release it by May!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> If only this will fit inside my case since I can buy it without problems or expensive shipping/taxes. So I am waiting for the C1 instead which has crazy delays
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its already May, and they said they will release it by May!


Just looked at Jonsbo website and it says U2 has 175mm CPU clearance. Cryorig is 168mm tall.
http://jonsbo.com/en/products_17_1.html


----------



## Dyaems

Its for the Core1000 @doyll and I think it is impossible to screw the motherboard back in place if I put a twin tower cooler inside a Jonsbo U2


----------



## doyll

Cut a window in the Core 1000 and extend the window out to clear the cooler.








In the U2... well... where there's a will, there's a way.


----------



## Nicola1989

ragazzi ho un dubbio, nella recensione di teckpower up si dice che il dissipatore sia alto 190mm, mente sul sito ufficiale di cryorig dice che è alto 168mm. io ho attualmente ho un corsair 400r che supporta dissipatori alti massimo 175mm, quindi la domanda sorge spontanea, quali delle 2 fonti devo prendere per buona, chiedo anche a voi, il cryorig r1 universal entra in un corsair 400r?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nicola1989*
> 
> ragazzi ho un dubbio, nella recensione di teckpower up si dice che il dissipatore sia alto 190mm, mente sul sito ufficiale di cryorig dice che è alto 168mm. io ho attualmente ho un corsair 400r che supporta dissipatori alti massimo 175mm, quindi la domanda sorge spontanea, quali delle 2 fonti devo prendere per buona, chiedo anche a voi, il cryorig r1 universal entra in un corsair 400r?


Quote:


> You are EXPECTED to:
> Communicate in English only


7th line from bottom
http://www.overclock.net/a/terms-of-service


----------



## Nicola1989

sorry, my fault, really a long day at work, I selected the wrong column in google translate

guys i have a doubt, in the review of teckpower up it says that the heatsink is 190mm high, mind on the official website of cryorig says it is 168mm high. I currently have a corsair 400r that supports maximum 175mm tall heatsinks, then the question arises, which of the 2 sources I have to take the good, I also ask you, the universal cryorig r1 unviversal enters a corsair 400r?


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nicola1989*
> 
> sorry, my fault, really a long day at work, I selected the wrong column in google translate
> 
> guys i have a doubt, in the review of teckpower up it says that the heatsink is 190mm high, mind on the official website of cryorig says it is 168mm high. I currently have a corsair 400r that supports maximum 175mm tall heatsinks, then the question arises, which of the 2 sources I have to take the good, I also ask you, the universal cryorig r1 unviversal enters a corsair 400r?


My case has 170 mm clearance and it fits easily. I believe its actually 168.7mm or something. Anyway it will easily fit in your case









EDIT: 190mm is an outrageous size for a cooler. I wonder if there are any cases in existence that would fit that monster


----------



## doyll

Phanteks Enthoo Primo has 207mm CPU clearance and Phanteks Enthoo Pro has 193mm CPU clearance.









But Cryorig R1 is only 168.3mm tall


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> *Cut a window in the Core 1000 and extend the window out to clear the cooler.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the U2... well... where there's a will, there's a way.


Actually, thats what I am thinking of, and already planning to buy some longer hex screws that fits with the drill holes later


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Primo has 207mm CPU clearance and Phanteks Enthoo Pro has 193mm CPU clearance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But Cryorig R1 is only 168.3mm tall


Thats a lot of room for heatsink







Should have thought of full tower cases though, not something I've looked at a lot due to space issues. I'm sure you can let me off .4 of a mm on the Cryorig though, duly noted for future reference









Off topic, I want to see a 207 mm dual tower, wonder at what point more tower and heatpipe make no more difference to cooling, I suppose any fans bigger then 140/150 wouldn't have the static pressure to make it work.


----------



## Wickedtt

Anyone by chance know where i can pick one up in the US. Ebay people want a redic price. Anything let me know thanks


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wickedtt*
> 
> Anyone by chance know where i can pick one up in the US. Ebay people want a redic price. Anything let me know thanks


I don't believe there are any American distributors yet. Only European and Asian.
http://www.cryorig.com/buy.php


----------



## Wickedtt

If anyone wants to get me one and send it to me i would foot the bill i desperately want one


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wickedtt*
> 
> If anyone wants to get me one and send it to me i would foot the bill i desperately want one


Have you contacted Alternate or any Cryorig suppliers to see if they will ship to USA?


----------



## Domiro

Doesn't seem like Alternate will; http://www.alternate.de/html/content.html?docId=478
Quote:


> Wir liefern in folgende Länder: Belgien, Dänemark, Finnland, Frankreich, Griechenland, Großbritannien, Irland, Italien, Luxemburg, Niederlande, Norwegen, Deutschland, Portugal, Polen, Schweden, Spanien, Schweiz


Still worth contacting, I suppose.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

It's on Amazon U.K now, maybe they would ship to the States?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> It's on Amazon U.K now, maybe they would ship to the States?


My son in California ordered an Asus Xonar U7 7.1 from Amazon.co.uk. I don't know who the actual supplier was or how he did it.

£63.00 delivered in UK is good price too!








Seller is Olano GmbH (Germany)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cryorig-ULTIMATE-x521D-x56DE-x9650/dp/B00HUHC3WY/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1400413628&sr=1-1&keywords=cryorig+r1+ultimate


----------



## Wickedtt

thanks for the feedback but i checked with alt and amazon.co.uk and they will not send to the states tried a few jap companys also no luck so i contacted them direct see how that goes


----------



## Dyaems

I already asked that (for the C1, that is) and Cryorig does not sell directly, sadly. Although they allow for an individual (who does not have a retail store or something related) to resell their items without going to a distributor (there is none in our country) which I find it really interesting.

If you know a fellow forumer where the R1 is being sold in their country, you can just PM them instead, and pay for shipping maybe? Also give an extra for a beer or two


----------



## Wickedtt

If anyone from the uk is interested and lending a hand just PM im pretty bummed that it cant be found in the states.


----------



## ciarlatano

As per Cryorig this morning - the R1 Ultimate and Universal will be available from New Egg in the first half of June. The wait is almost over.









And, it's worth the wait, no question about it.


----------



## doyll

That is great news!

I just saw HiTech Legion's review. Their below statement pretty well sumsit up.







Quote:


> While the initial launch of the Cryorig R1 Ultimate was somewhat soft from a media standpoint, the R1 Ultimate itself presents itself as poised to take over the lead position in enthusiast air cooling.


http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/39900-cryorig-r1-ultimate-cpu-cooler-review


Quote:


> *Reviewer's Opinion*
> Cryorig is a new name on the scene, but the design and build quality of the R1 Ultimate looks like anything but a first attempt. There is obviously a lot of experience and know how going on behind the scenes at Cryorig, and they point blank seem to know exactly what they are doing. Everything about the R1 screams "top tier, unmatched quality" from the packaging, to the finish, to the design, to the great aesthetics. Speaking strictly in those terms before benchmarking, *I can honestly say that the Cryorig R1 is the most impressive cooler top to bottom that I have ever unpacked.*
> . . . . .
> 
> In the end, the Cryorig R1 Ultimate proved to be not just a top tier cooler, but *one of the few truly elite coolers on the market today*. Performance of the R1 Ultimate was the best we have ever tested in this class, while the noise level was excellent. Everything from the packaging to the design, build and aesthetics were flawless, while the *mounting kit may be the best design and easiest to work* with we have seen. If this is what Cryorig has as a first offering, I can't wait to see what comes next. The R1 Ultimate is an obvious Editor's Choice, and *may be the finest all-around example we have seen of what an air cooler should be*.


http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/39900-cryorig-r1-ultimate-cpu-cooler-review?showall=&start=3








I believe every word!


----------



## Dyaems

Hey @doyll, any impressions with the XF140? Is it as good as TY140 fans?


----------



## doyll

Not having sound meter or airflow meter I can only give impressions, but Cryorig XF140 performs and sounds very similar to TY-140 series fans. Comparing them on coolers the cooling and sound so close to the same that without seeing which fan it was I don't think you could tell which fan was in use.









XF140 has a couple things to it's advantage;

Vibration mounts (in black, white & red)
Look nicer (texture lines on black blades with charcoal grey housing0
if I was buying new fans .. I don't know .. SF140, TY-147, F140XP .. very hard choices. Would be more esthetics than performance. Cryorig case fans with R1 Ultimate would sure look awesome!


----------



## JambonJovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Cryorig case fans with R1 Ultimate would sure look awesome!


That would be savage alright


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Youre not helping guys









I've been trying to convince myself that I don't NEED to spend £90 on Cryorig fans (+delivery) when I move my rig to its new case. It would look great though









Man...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> Youre not helping guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been trying to convince myself that I don't NEED to spend £90 on Cryorig fans (+delivery) when I move my rig to its new case. It would look great though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man...


Cryorig R1 Ultimate on Amazon.co.uk is £62.60 + FREE UK delivery
In stock. Sold by Olano GmbH (Germany)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cryorig-ULTIMATE-x521D-x56DE-x9650/dp/B00HUHC3WY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1400711074&sr=8-1&keywords=cryorig+r1+ultimate


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Cryorig R1 Ultimate on Amazon.co.uk is £62.60 + FREE UK delivery
> In stock. Sold by Olano GmbH (Germany)
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cryorig-ULTIMATE-x521D-x56DE-x9650/dp/B00HUHC3WY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1400711074&sr=8-1&keywords=cryorig+r1+ultimate


Yea I have the cooler already man









I know its a lot of money to spend on fans at 14.99 each from Alternate, but I'm gonna need at least 6 to allow me to play a bit with the configs in the new case


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Not having sound meter or airflow meter I can only give impressions, but Cryorig XF140 performs and sounds very similar to TY-140 series fans. Comparing them on coolers the cooling and sound so close to the same that without seeing which fan it was I don't think you could tell which fan was in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> XF140 has a couple things to it's advantage;
> 
> Vibration mounts (in black, white & red)
> Look nicer (texture lines on black blades with charcoal grey housing0
> if I was buying new fans .. I don't know .. SF140, TY-147, F140XP .. very hard choices. Would be more esthetics than performance. Cryorig case fans with R1 Ultimate would sure look awesome!


Thanks man. I saw the price of the XF140 yesterday and its like... twice the price of a TY147







I might as well buy an R1 Ultimate and get the two free fans there xD

However I do agree that they look great!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> Yea I have the cooler already man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know its a lot of money to spend on fans at 14.99 each from Alternate, but I'm gonna need at least 6 to allow me to play a bit with the configs in the new case











Olano.de sells XF140 for € 18,05 which is £14.60. As they are selling the cooler on ebay.co.uk maybe they would sell you fans posted free too. Couldn't hurt to ask nicely. Could ask them on amazon.co.uk


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Thanks man. I saw the price of the XF140 yesterday and its like... twice the price of a TY147
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might as well buy an R1 Ultimate and get the two free fans there xD
> 
> However I do agree that they look great!


Two free fans! That sounds too good to be true!
As much as XF140's looks, for half the money TY-147's look a lot better. Not so many € €€ € blocking the view.


----------



## Domiro

I've got 6 XF140s ready for usage.

Lot of modding to do first though


----------



## ZeppeMan

I would like to buy the Cryorig R1 Ultimate, but will it fit into a Silverstone TJ08B-E? I think it should fit, but i'm not 100% sure about the height of the cooler (168mm)..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeppeMan*
> 
> I would like to buy the Cryorig R1 Ultimate, but will it fit into a Silverstone TJ08B-E? I think it should fit, but i'm not 100% sure about the height of the cooler (168mm)..


The Cryorig R1 Ultimate actually measures 165mm to top with fans pushed all the way down (173mm above motherboard). Your RAM will need to be 30mm or less in height (33mm above motherboard) or set in front of fan.

I'm working on a drawing with all possible measurements.


----------



## ZeppeMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The Cryorig R1 Ultimate actually measures 165mm to top with fans pushed all the way down (173mm above motherboard). Your RAM will need to be 30mm or less in height (33mm above motherboard) or set in front of fan.
> 
> I'm working on a drawing with all possible measurements.


Well, my case (tj08b-e) is 210mm wide, so that should not give any problems with the side panel touching the heatsink right?


----------



## doyll

If you say so.









Case specs are 165mm CPU clearance.
Vengeance Low Profile is 26.25mm tall so everything should just fit. It will be tight.


----------



## Dyaems

R1 can't fit but with windowed side panel? Just do what doyll suggested xD


----------



## doyll

Dyaems, that is not what I suggested.







But I sure do like it! Looks great! Best I've seen!









Added airflow too.


----------



## Dyaems

It isn't? I thought I read it something like that, and which is what I have in mind as well, haha. Anyways, the R1 still wont fit and I need longer screws with the same diameter for the neck(?), which is really hard to find or impossible, so I returned the R1 and got the C1 instead.

While I do not have pics (PC still not working/finished), I find it funny that the R1 occupies more than 1/4 of the internals of Core 1000


----------



## cyclone101

Does anyone know if it's possible to buy the heatsink bracket the one with the springs on that's screws to the motherboard brackets as I have snapped the bolt by over tightening it


----------



## JambonJovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyclone101*
> 
> Does anyone know if it's possible to buy the heatsink bracket the one with the springs on that's screws to the motherboard brackets as I have snapped the bolt by over tightening it


Try contacting Cryorig personally. They might be able to help you...
You might even get it for free, since it's surely still under warranty.

http://www.cryorig.com/contact_us.php


----------



## JambonJovi

Guys, seen this yet ?

http://www.guru3d.com/news_story/cryorig_shows_h5_coolers_and_rims_fan_concept.html


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JambonJovi*
> 
> Guys, seen this yet ?
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/news_story/cryorig_shows_h5_coolers_and_rims_fan_concept.html


I'm probably more excited for a C1 review.

Like the idea of the fan. Curious as to how that heatsink will perform.


----------



## Swell5

Cryorig now at Newegg!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=cryorig&N=-1&isNodeId=1


----------



## doyll

Prices are not bad either!








http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=cryorig&N=-1&isNodeId=1&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=6146846&SID=10p0k2ggzfw7d


----------



## BenJaminJr

Now that it is out in the us hopefully we see more reviews


----------



## doyll

Don't really need more reviews. Cryorig R1 Ultimate is one of the the best if not the best cooler out there right now.


----------



## cyclone101

Hello can anyone help I recently purchased a cryorig r1 ultimate and accidentally snapped one of the spring bolts on the heatsink I have contacted cryorig through there support it has been about 3 days now and heard nothing I am only wanting to try and replace the bracket what screws to the heatsink
Has anyone had any feed back from support and how long I should wait I don't want to be buying a new heatsink

Many thanks


----------



## JambonJovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Don't really need more reviews. Cryorig R1 Ultimate is one of the the best if not the best cooler out there right now.


QFT


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Don't really need more reviews. Cryorig R1 Ultimate is one of the the best if not the best cooler out there right now.


But is it worth the cost over my U14s dual fan is the question


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> But is it worth the cost over my U14s dual fan is the question


Here, I'll let you decide


Edited from
http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/cryorig_r1_ultimate_review,9.html
I believe the Silver Arrow SB-E Extreme and HE01 are better than they show here. I believe that because of their high cfm / rpm fans the case cooling was unable to supply them with cool intake air and they were forced to re-cycle their own heated exhaust air which raised their intake air temperature and therefore the CPU temperature.

Notice how Vortez has H100i as coolest (10.4c cooler than R1 Ultimate) while Hi Tech Legion shows it hotter (4c hotter) than air coolers.


From Hi Tech Legion
http://hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/39900-cryorig-r1-ultimate-cpu-cooler-review?showall=1&limitstart=
George Cella's case has good airflow and supplies cool air to cooler intake.


----------



## miklkit

Hey, the old HE01 hangs in there ok. And yes I am partisan.









Case airflow is critical to get the best performance out of those coolers. You want something like this to get the best out of them.


----------



## doyll

If you can stand the noise of HE01 at full speed it is one of the best out of the box coolers.
Only others similar I know of are Silver Arrow SB-E Extreme and Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme and again,
if you can stand the noise at full speed. 

All that shows is front fans are intake.


----------



## cyclone101

Hello can anyone give me some advice on the best way to apply the thermal paste that comes with the cryorig r1 ultimate

Many thanks


----------



## Dyaems

Is that thermal paste even good? I never tried it with my C1 xD

I usually do similar to this whenever I apply TIM on the processors


----------



## doyll

What Dyaems said. The more centered it is the better.. and having too little TIM is less of a problem than having too much.







A dob the size of a large grain of rice is what I use.
(Click on image to enlarge)
 
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/What-is-the-Best-Way-to-Apply-Thermal-Grease-Part-1/1303/9


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If you can stand the noise of HE01 at full speed it is one of the best out of the box coolers.
> Only others similar I know of are Silver Arrow SB-E Extreme and Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme and again,
> if you can stand the noise at full speed.
> 
> All that shows is front fans are intake.


It's not that noisy. It only runs at full speed when stress testing. Most of the time the case fans (full speed all the time) are louder. I also tried water cooling and THAT is loud. Much louder.

In my experience most cases can't do that. I started with a standard sheet of paper and it was sucked right in. Then came the heavy duty paper towel that is folded over, and it was sucked in and stuck. Next came a tshirt, but it didn't stick. Too heavy.

But the point is that the better the air flow through the case the better the cooler will work. In other words I was agreeing with you.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe every word!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Here, I'll let you decide
> 
> 
> Edited from
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/cryorig_r1_ultimate_review,9.html
> I believe the Silver Arrow SB-E Extreme and HE01 are better than they show here. I believe that because of their high cfm / rpm fans the case cooling was unable to supply them with cool intake air and they were forced to re-cycle their own heated exhaust air which raised their intake air temperature and therefore the CPU temperature.
> 
> Notice how Vortez has H100i as coolest (10.4c cooler than R1 Ultimate) while Hi Tech Legion shows it hotter (4c hotter) than air coolers.
> 
> 
> From Hi Tech Legion
> http://hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/39900-cryorig-r1-ultimate-cpu-cooler-review?showall=1&limitstart=
> George Cella's case has good airflow and supplies cool air to cooler intake.


Aside from the Phantom 530 having great airflow.....I also don't test CLCs with the fans as intakes to boost their benchmarking numbers. Nor do I test them with the computer located in a walk in refrigerator....which would be about the only explanation I can come up with for some of the results I have seen.....unless the light-up sailboat causes hypnosis in some individuals while they are recording benchmarks.

Something to note about the HE01 - it tends to perform significantly better comparatively on physically larger CPUs such as 2011 and 1366. Those great numbers you see here on the 3930K become much more pedestrian (but still very good) on 115X CPUs.

The other odd thing about the HE01, as Doyll noted, it needs a lot of exhaust to keep warm air recirculation from occurring. Yet, Silverstone's cases are all geared for high positive pressure. They are kind of shooting themselves in he foot with that.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> It's not that noisy. It only runs at full speed when stress testing. Most of the time the case fans (full speed all the time) are louder. I also tried water cooling and THAT is loud. Much louder.
> 
> In my experience most cases can't do that. I started with a standard sheet of paper and it was sucked right in. Then came the heavy duty paper towel that is folded over, and it was sucked in and stuck. Next came a tshirt, but it didn't stick. Too heavy.
> 
> But the point is that the better the air flow through the case the better the cooler will work. In other words I was agreeing with you.


I wouldn't call the HE01 "noisy" during light usage, but it huffs really badly on fan speed changes which I found annoying.

If by "water cooling" you are referring to a CLC, then all I can say is thank you for saying it. I see one more person say how quiet their CLC is and I am going to lose it....just got done benching a bunch of them and cripes they are disturbingly loud even at idle. Couldn't wait to get the things out of my rig.

But, back to the original point.....the R1 is significantly quieter than the HE01 or any CLC that I have come into contact with, and it will soundly outperform either on LGA 115X in a case with decent airflow.


----------



## doyll

miklkik,
I was only teasing about the piece of paper on intakes. HE01 is a good cooler.. at least from what I've heard from peps who have them and reading reviews. I heard there were some problems with the FHP141 high/low switches, but nothing else.

I haven't had the honor of playing with an HE01 or the FHP141 fan. Would hove to get a couple of the FHP1412 fans to test on my Silver Arrow / Cogage Arrow. It has enough room to fit one between towers.










It is definitely a balancing act. To get maximum cooling requires lots of airflow.. which means high speed fans and that is noisy.

That's the nice thing about having PWM fan control. Can control case fans with CPU and GPU PWM signal and have a silent system at idle, quiet at normal use and only get louder when pushing components to their max.


----------



## Domiro

I like the CP9 stuff. Used less than the Arctic Silver 5 to get same coverage and it seems to work well on my GPU. Dropped about 4 degrees on the it.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Is that thermal paste even good? I never tried it with my C1 xD
> 
> I usually do similar to this whenever I apply TIM on the processors


Vortez did a comparison on the TIM in their review. It's about the same performance as Noctua NT-H1

http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/cryorig_r1_ultimate_review,11.html



I used the stock paste to, went on easily with the grain of rice method. Similar consistency to MX4 and AS5 that I've used before.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The other odd thing about the HE01, as Doyll noted, it needs a lot of exhaust to keep warm air recirculation from occurring. Yet, Silverstone's cases are all geared for high positive pressure. They are kind of shooting themselves in he foot with that.


Odd that you say that as , while I didn't plan it that way I endeded up with a Silverstone cooler in a Silverstone case. I cut out the grill for the rear exhaust fan and also removed the I/O panel. Noise dropped and air flow increased so much that it no longer has any exhaust fans at all.

Well it does too. It has 4-120mm Aerocool Sharks for intake and 2-FHP 141s for exhaust blowing out that gaping hole in the back.

Doyll: I like to keep the case fans running hard all the time because they help keep the motherboard cool. Motherboard temps go up when it is not working hard and go down when those FHP141s rev up. You should try them on those Arrows.


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> Vortez did a comparison on the TIM in their review. It's about the same performance as Noctua NT-H1
> 
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/cryorig_r1_ultimate_review,11.html
> 
> 
> 
> I used the stock paste to, went on easily with the grain of rice method. Similar consistency to MX4 and AS5 that I've used before.


This is good news. I do not have to buy more TIMafter my 3 syringes worth of MX-4 and a Gelid GC extreme


----------



## doyll

The 0.3c and 0.4c differences showing in that test are most likely the quality of the seating. Acceptable tolerance is +/-1.0c. 0.3 - 0.4c is +/-0.15 - 0;2c... difference is virtually none-existent.


----------



## Colin_MC

Did anyone of you - changed the fans on R1 Ultimate? For me, on 6V (I can set minimum 50% on MB) and little above 800rpm - they are noisy. Are there any problems, with mounting using stock clips - when for example BQ Silent Wings are used?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Colin_MC*
> 
> Did anyone of you - changed the fans on R1 Ultimate? For me, on 6V (I can set minimum 50% on MB) and little above 800rpm - they are noisy. Are there any problems, with mounting using stock clips - when for example BQ Silent Wings are used?


Yes, you can use most normal design 140mm fans with 120mm fan mounts. But BQ Silent Wings do not have 120mm mounting holes.

Why are you using voltage control? The fans are PWM and will throttle dow much lower than 800rpm.. although 800rpm is very quiet. Are you sure it's the Cryorig fans and not some other fan in your case?


----------



## Colin_MC

On a "auto" setting in my MSI Z77 MA-GD45 fans are working with 1000rpm, which is definitely too high for me.. (and I switched to manual voltage setting). Yes, I'm sure - I've switched almost rest of fans. When I decreased from 1000 to 800 rpm it's veeery noticeable for me


----------



## doyll

Indeed. 800rpm is very quiet, 1000rpm is not loud but not quiet either.

Have you ran other PWM fans on the CPU_FAN header to see what speeds they run? All 1200-1300rpm PWM fans should run close to the same speed on same PWM signal.


----------



## Colin_MC

Yes, I've ran other fans. Now I want to change it to http://www.alpenfoehn.de/index.php/en/products/fans/24-wingboost2/139-140-royal-blue-plus-2


----------



## CrazyElf

They got back to me:
Quote:


> Our items are available in Newegg USA. From our understanding is that they can provide shipping to Canada, but prices could be higher due to shipping or taxes. We are still working our way to better market availability, but for now we can't provide a definite time frame for Canada. Canada is a key market that we value, so when we can bring our products to Canada, we'll definitely be posting it on our Facebook Fanpage. https://www.facebook.com/cryorig.cr/
> 
> CRYORIG
> 
> Email: [email protected]
> 
> Skype: cryorig


Doesn't look like it is on sale here in Canada otherwise.

Are the R1 Ultimate and Universal the same cooler, only with different fans and shroud colors, or the coolers themselves different?


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyElf*
> 
> They got back to me:
> Doesn't look like it is on sale here in Canada otherwise.
> 
> Are the R1 Ultimate and Universal the same cooler, only with different fans and shroud colors, or the coolers themselves different?


Same cooler different slim front fan on the universal XT140 as opposed to XF140. Looks like different colours are incoming from Doylls earlier post. I think at the moment the universal is white, my ultimate is the sort of charcoal









Edit for an errant quote soz


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CrazyElf*
> 
> They got back to me:
> Doesn't look like it is on sale here in Canada otherwise.
> 
> Are the R1 Ultimate and Universal the same cooler, only with different fans and shroud colors, or the coolers themselves different?
> 
> 
> 
> Same cooler different slim front fan on the universal XT140 as opposed to XF140. Looks like different colours are incoming from Doylls earlier post. I think at the moment the universal is white, my ultimate is the sort of charcoal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit for an errant quote soz
Click to expand...

They are not the same cooler, but are very similar.


I found the fans with their rubber mounts to be a little thicker than spec sheet says.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

I thought that the heatsinks were identical? Cryorigs website confirms exact same number of fins and weight without fans ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> I thought that the heatsinks were identical? Cryorigs website confirms exact same number of fins and weight without fans ?


Like I said, "They are not the same cooler, but are very similar."
Cryorig website also shows most of the measurements I have in drawing above.
Weight of R1 Ultimate is 1282g with fans, 936g without, and XF140 is 156g or 312g for 2 XF140 fans.
Weight of R1 Universal is 1181g with fans, 936g without and 1 XT140 is 89g plus 1 XF140 at 156g for is 245g for 2 fans.

R1 Universal cooler spec with fans is 101g lighter than R1 Ultimate with fans, but the difference in fan weight between 2 XF140 fans (312g) and 1 XF140 iplus 1 ST140 (245g) is 67g lighter
Where is the 67g difference?
The XT140 fan clips are a little small for 14mm vs 27mm thick fans but not 67g difference.


----------



## veryrarium

The fin counts, the fin thickness, and the fin width according to Cryorig's official data are the same for both models, but one obvious difference between the two is that the front-side fin stack and the rear-side fin stack of the Universal are further offset toward the rear by 4.5mm and 3.0mm respectively compared with the Ultimate, making the heatpipes of the Universal longer than the corresponding ones of the Ultimate. This means the Universal should actually be heavier than the Ultimate if everything else (base and fin construction/material/size) were assumed to be equal, but somehow both two models weigh 936 grams according to Cryorig's official measurement data. Possibly each of the Universal's fins is slightly less deep compared with the corresponding fin of the Ultimate, or the presented data is just wrong, who knows.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

I see that now ta chaps


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *veryrarium*
> 
> The fin counts, the fin thickness, and the fin width according to Cryorig's official data are the same for both models, but one obvious difference between the two is that the front-side fin stack and the rear-side fin stack of the Universal are further offset toward the rear by 4.5mm and 3.0mm respectively compared with the Ultimate, making the heatpipes of the Universal longer than the corresponding ones of the Ultimate. This means the Universal should actually be heavier than the Ultimate if everything else (base and fin construction/material/size) were assumed to be equal, but somehow both two models weigh 936 grams according to Cryorig's official measurement data. Possibly each of the Universal's fins is slightly less deep compared with the corresponding fin of the Ultimate, or the presented data is just wrong, who knows.


Their weight specs do not total up.. Simple as that. Something in the specs is wrong.

In the R1 Ultimate drawings notice the fan blades on front of cooler







Cooler drawing has 13 blade XT fan and fan drawing 11 blade XF fan.

Indeed,
Wouldn't take much additional length in pipes to account for the 67g weight difference. But if that's the case the Universal would be heavier than Ultimate.


----------



## Dyaems

Doyll, any idea what are the bearings used for the XT and XF fans? Thanks.


----------



## JambonJovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Doyll, any idea what are the bearings used for the XT and XF fans? Thanks.


Both XT and XF feature Cryorig's own HPLN (High Precision Low Noise) bearing.
What it actually is, I don't know.


----------



## doyll

Sorry, I don't know what the bearing actually is. I've had my fans running for several months now with no problems.


----------



## kishagi

Hmm, I cant make up my mind, should I get the Cryorig Ultimate or go for watercooling?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kishagi*
> 
> Hmm, I cant make up my mind, should I get the Cryorig Ultimate or go for watercooling?


That's a no-brainer mate.
Top air coolers (Cryorig is THE top air cooler) are better than CLC, quieter, cost less, and have less chance of problems.. and of course cannot leak.








http://www.overclock.net/t/1497595/air-cooling-vs-aio-cooling-system/0_20#post_22463315


----------



## JambonJovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> That's a no-brainer mate.
> Top air coolers (Cryorig is THE top air cooler) are better than CLC, quieter, cost less, and have less chance of problems.. and of course cannot leak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1497595/air-cooling-vs-aio-cooling-system/0_20#post_22463315


What he said.

I'd actually love to get a G3258 and see how far it could be pushed with the R1.
However don't have aaaany money so my experimental ideas will have to wait.
Unless somebody wants to do it for me.


----------



## CrazyElf

Going to have to figure out how to get an R1 Ultimate to Canada, seeing that there are no retail versions anywhere.

Do you think that there will ever be a 3 tower CPU cooler? It's possible I guess, although the size could be a problem fitting into a case depending on how big each tower gets.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Is that thermal paste even good? I never tried it with my C1 xD


It's near the top, although not the absolute best. Gelid GC Extreme is currently regarded as the top paste, among the non-electrically conductive pastes.

Either way, it's only 1 degree or so.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Doyll, any idea what are the bearings used for the XT and XF fans? Thanks.


My best guess is that it's a long life sleeve bearing fan, looking at the diagram that Cryorig provided. They are often called "Rifle bearing" and a few other names.

See here:
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/The-Truth-About-Fluid-Dynamic-Bearing-FDB-Fans/1807

I would not use it for horizontal mounts out of concern for the fan's life, but otherwise it should have a lifespan comparable to that of a ball bearing fan.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kishagi*
> 
> Hmm, I cant make up my mind, should I get the Cryorig Ultimate or go for watercooling?


Only reason to go AIO coolers is for the looks, for clearance issues, or if you have really tall RAM heatspreaders. Otherwise, this will be a better choice. No risk of leaks and other problems.

If you mean full liquid (ex: buy your own tubing, reservoir, pump, radiator, fans, fittings, and CPU/GPU blocks), that's different, as it will be more work, but it will cool a lot better.


----------



## Dyaems

@CrazyElf

Thanks. My XT140 is causing a rattling noise after a few days of running so I wondered what _actual_ bearing does Cryorig is using for their fans. I would brand that "HPLN" bearing as a "marketing gimmick" so I asked if there is another name for it.

And I do not want to have it replaced and attempt to re-oil it and hope for the best, because shipping will be a pain because according to Cryorig's terms that I will have to pay for shipping for warranty of their products. And most likely, the shipping will cost the same, if not more than another XT or XF fan









I bought mine overseas haha


----------



## doyll

@ Crazy Elf
I doubt orientation of fan makes any difference. The XF140 is used on the C1.. a cooler designed for horizontal use.

@ Dyaems
Are you sure it's the XT140 making the noise? Not saying it isn't but peeps often find noises to be coming from things not originally suspected.
If it is in fact the XT140, contact Cryorig and see what they suggest. They may be more cooperative than you think.


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @ Dyaems
> Are you sure it's the XT140 making the noise? Not saying it isn't but peeps often find noises to be coming from things not originally suspected.
> If it is in fact the XT140, contact Cryorig and see what they suggest. They may be more cooperative than you think.


yup it is the XT140 because I replaced it with a Gentle Typhoon and the rattling noise is gone.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> yup it is the XT140 because I replaced it with a Gentle Typhoon and the rattling noise is gone.


Contact Cryorig customer support. I'm sure they will do you right.
http://www.cryorig.com/contact_us.php

Please keep us posted.


----------



## Dyaems

Already did after my reply above. I used the popup thingy though lol...


----------



## doyll

It is 5:45PM in Taipei so you probably won't hear anything at least tomorrow.


----------



## Dyaems

I sent the message around 3pm Taipei time. I am not in a hurry though!


----------



## giygas

How quiet are these fans supposed to be? My front fan is running at 1500 rpm and the middle one is going at 1000 rpm and there's quite a loud hum coming from it...I have a Cooler Master JetFlo behind it as my exhaust fan running at about 60% and the R1 is about as loud as that. And this is from inside the NZXT H440, which has sound dampening stuff all over it. Not quite jet engine loud, but not quiet at all.

Also, the front XT140 fan is definitely making a faint grinding/rattling sound as well. I bought this along with an extra XT140 and that one also makes a grinding/rattling noise! I think I just play it safe and run over to Noctua.

My FX-8350 is idling at 38C in a ~26-28C room.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giygas*
> 
> How quiet are these fans supposed to be? My front fan is running at 1500 rpm and the middle one is going at 1000 rpm and there's quite a loud hum coming from it...I have a Cooler Master JetFlo behind it as my exhaust fan running at about 60% and the R1 is about as loud as that. And this is from inside the NZXT H440, which has sound dampening stuff all over it. Not quite jet engine loud, but not quiet at all.
> 
> Also, the front XT140 fan is definitely making a faint grinding/rattling sound as well. I bought this along with an extra XT140 and that one also makes a grinding/rattling noise! I think I just play it safe and run over to Noctua.
> 
> My FX-8350 is idling at 38C in a ~26-28C room.


Both of my XF140 fans run the same speed and make no grinding noises. Same applied to my XT140.
Are you sure both are getting the same power? How are they connected to power?

You got an extra XT140 fan? That is the 14mm thick one. XF140 are about 26mm thick and XT149 about 14mm. thick.


----------



## giygas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Both of my XF140 fans run the same speed and make no grinding noises. Same applied to my XT140.
> Are you sure both are getting the same power? How are they connected to power?
> 
> You got an extra XT140 fan? That is the 14mm thick one. XF140 are about 26mm thick and XT149 about 14mm. thick.


Yep, I got an R1 Universal with the extra fan to put onto the back, but I've taken it off. I'll probably send it back for a replacement and see if a new one has the noise too. It was the XT140, the thinner one.

I now simply have the front and middle fan connected via splitter to CPU_FAN. Still idles in the high 30s but my air conditioning broke the same day I put the cooler on and it's over 26C in my room right now. I think that lowered the noise level too, I had the middle one connected to CPU_OPT before.

And I guess it's normal for a cooler of this size to sag a bit.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giygas*
> 
> Yep, I got an R1 Universal with the extra fan to put onto the back, but I've taken it off. I'll probably send it back for a replacement and see if a new one has the noise too. It was the XT140, the thinner one.
> 
> I now simply have the front and middle fan connected via splitter to CPU_FAN. Still idles in the high 30s but my air conditioning broke the same day I put the cooler on and it's over 26C in my room right now. I think that lowered the noise level too, I had the middle one connected to CPU_OPT before.
> 
> And I guess it's normal for a cooler of this size to sag a bit.


Sounds like CPU_OPT is on a different control.. strange, but it happens.

What do you mean about sagging?

Indeed.
Contact Cryorig customer support and explain your problem.
http://www.cryorig.com/contact_us.php


----------



## giygas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sounds like CPU_OPT is on a different control.. strange, but it happens.
> 
> What do you mean about sagging?
> 
> Indeed.
> Contact Cryorig customer support and explain your problem.
> http://www.cryorig.com/contact_us.php


*shrug* I think I will stick with 2 fans though, so I will just a splitter. the rear fins are less than 2 inches away from the exhaust fan anyways.

sagging, similar to the way a heavy GPU will sag. the weight of the cooler pulls it down a little. Like this Noctua over here:



I'll holler at Cryorig too, thanks for the link.


----------



## Dyaems

still no contact from Cryorig, so i tried playing around with the XT140 yesterday.

I noticed that the blades of the XT140 are thin, and they wiggle by a bit. I also run the fan without mounting it from anywhere, and there are no rattling sound coming from it, but when i move the fan, lets say, horizontal to vertical position it rattles, its like the fan blades are touching the ribs or something. not sure if that is normal since I did the same thing with my AP-15 and Silent Wings 2, and it did not produce the same sound.

another possible suspect of my rattling issue is that the plastic shroud is causing that noise because it moves or wiggles when i tried moving it. it is seated properly though, i noticed that when i inspected the C1 right after I got it.

I do not have proof yet though, since the XT140 is currently mounted the other way around so it does not blow air onto the shroud. I will put it back after getting some temp testing how the fan is currently mounted.

sorry for posting non R1 cooler in an R1 thread

Anyways, (continued below)

@giygas

you can try placing a washer first before you mount the fan. not sure how you will do it on a heatsink though, maybe you can use _something_ to make the distance between the heatsink and the XT140 abit farther and try to see if the rattling noise is still present or not.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giygas*
> 
> And I guess it's normal for a cooler of this size to sag a bit.


Depends on your definition of "normal". It would be normal for it to sag on a MB with a thinner PCB (ASRock, Biostar, ECS, etc), not so normal on the 8-layer ASUS and new gen MSI boards, though the MSI does have more flex than the ASUS. Gigabyte is kind of a crapshoot.....I have some really solid PCBs from them, and some that are as flexible as ASRock boards.


----------



## giygas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Depends on your definition of "normal". It would be normal for it to sag on a MB with a thinner PCB (ASRock, Biostar, ECS, etc), not so normal on the 8-layer ASUS and new gen MSI boards, though the MSI does have more flex than the ASUS. Gigabyte is kind of a crapshoot.....I have some really solid PCBs from them, and some that are as flexible as ASRock boards.


I actually do have an ASUS board...the M5A99FX Pro R2.0. Don't know how thin/thick that one is compared to the others









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> @giygas
> 
> you can try placing a washer first before you mount the fan. not sure how you will do it on a heatsink though, maybe you can use _something_ to make the distance between the heatsink and the XT140 abit farther and try to see if the rattling noise is still present or not.


I don't think the distance between the fan and the heat sink has anything to do with the noise, it sounds more like it's coming from somewhere in the fan bearing, idk. Not a huge deal for me though, it doesn't sound scary and I can't hear it over the other fans' noise anyway, especially with the side panel on. I will wait for the replacement fan and see how it does









What I'm worried about is how much louder it is than I was expecting. I've never had a dual-tower cooler before. The Hyper 212 EVO I used to have wasn't nearly as loud, when I mounted 2 fans to it too.


----------



## doyll

Do you have the fans PWM controlled and set to idle at around 700rpm and speed up as needed to keep CPU below 50c unless you are working at 100% and than keep it below 75c? ... assuming it's a intel CPU

Have you heard anything from Cryorig?


----------



## giygas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Do you have the fans PWM controlled and set to idle at around 700rpm and speed up as needed to keep CPU below 50c unless you are working at 100% and than keep it below 75c? ... assuming it's a intel CPU
> 
> Have you heard anything from Cryorig?


Oh, I have an AMD processor, FX-8350. Got it recently and it's still at its stock 4.0GHz. The fans are idling at just over 1000 rpm. You know maybe it isn't actually as loud as I'm making it out to be, I guess I just had my expectations too high and was basically expecting complete silence. The idle temp dropped by almost 10C once my air conditioning started working again.

I haven't contacted Cryorig yet, I'll wait until my replacement fan gets here.


----------



## doyll

8350 is only good to a little over 60c.

1000rpm is quite high for idle. I run 950-1050rpm at full load with CPU at less than 50c in a 22c room. Idle is 600-700rpm.


----------



## giygas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 8350 is only good to a little over 60c.
> 
> 1000rpm is quite high for idle. I run 950-1050rpm at full load with CPU at less than 50c in a 22c room. Idle is 600-700rpm.


Maybe my motherboard's fan control is quirky? It's idling at 30C right now and my ambient temp is 20C. So the temperature is about on par with what I have experienced with other coolers, but I'm not sure it's significantly better. Perhaps I should try reapplying thermal compound and reseating.

During gaming while my A/C was down though, it peaked at 57C...which I haven't seen from any other cooler, even under such load at similarly high ambient temps (~25-27C).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giygas*
> 
> Maybe my motherboard's fan control is quirky? It's idling at 30C right now and my ambient temp is 20C. So the temperature is about on par with what I have experienced with other coolers, but I'm not sure it's significantly better. Perhaps I should try reapplying thermal compound and reseating.
> 
> During gaming while my A/C was down though, it peaked at 57C...which I haven't seen from any other cooler, even under such load at similarly high ambient temps (~25-27C).


30c does seem a little high in a 20c room.
What speed were fans at when it was at 57c?
Re-seating with new paste can't hurt. A picture of paste print on cooler / CPU when you take it off would be helpful.


----------



## giygas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 30c does seem a little high in a 20c room.
> What speed were fans at when it was at 57c?
> Re-seating with new paste can't hurt. A picture of paste print on cooler / CPU when you take it off would be helpful.


Yeah room temperature is 22ish and it's at 34 now. So it likes to hover at 10-12C above ambient. Should I expect better from this cooler? I'll be sure to remount it later today.

I don't remember the fan speeds. According to Cryorig's specs, the XF140 and XT140 both have a range of 700-1300 rpm and around 23-24 dB. They list the cooler as 44 dB though. So it's supposed to be that loud, then.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giygas*
> 
> Yeah room temperature is 22ish and it's at 34 now. So it likes to hover at 10-12C above ambient. Should I expect better from this cooler? I'll be sure to remount it later today.
> 
> I don't remember the fan speeds. According to Cryorig's specs, the XF140 and XT140 both have a range of 700-1300 rpm and around 23-24 dB. They list the cooler as 44 dB though. So it's supposed to be that loud, then.


25-30c is what I have at idle. But the temperature of air going into cooler is 23-24c in a 22c room. Air temperature going into cooler is not the same as room air temperature.







Without knowing what the cooler intake air temperature is I cannot say how well it is performing.

The 23-24dbA is pretty much irrelevant. The resistance and turbulence of air going through the fins changes the fan noise level and adds noise of it's own.

Keep in mind 44dbA is about the same as a library room.


----------



## giygas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 25-30c is what I have at idle. But the temperature of air going into cooler is 23-24c in a 22c room. Air temperature going into cooler is not the same as room air temperature.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Without knowing what the cooler intake air temperature is I cannot say how well it is performing.
> 
> The 23-24dbA is pretty much irrelevant. The resistance and turbulence of air going through the fins changes the fan noise level and adds noise of it's own.
> 
> Keep in mind 44dbA is about the same as a library room.


I took it off and reapplied some thermal mush and put it back on and the temperatures did not change







The backplate on the back of the motherboard looks like it's flexing...I'll post pictures tomorrow. Hope it's not a compatibility issue.

On the other hand my video card's idle temp has mysteriously dropped by a full 10C.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giygas*
> 
> I took it off and reapplied some thermal mush and put it back on and the temperatures did not change
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The backplate on the back of the motherboard looks like it's flexing...I'll post pictures tomorrow. Hope it's not a compatibility issue.
> 
> On the other hand my video card's idle temp has mysteriously dropped by a full 10C.


What did the TIM print look like?
Generally the less you use the better. Notice how little is used in first and second sets of pics. Those two give the lowest temps
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22335323


----------



## giygas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What did the TIM print look like?
> Generally the less you use the better. Notice how little is used in first and second sets of pics. Those two give the lowest temps
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22335323


This is what the TIM print looked like.




And maybe you're able to make out the backplate piece flexing in this picture.


----------



## doyll

I cannot tell for sure but the TIM looks quite thick on the bottom of cooler.
How big a dob of TIM are you using?
I would estimate my application "dob" is about 3mm in diameter.
When cooler is mounted the TIM squeezes out and there should be metal to metal contact with the TIM filling any spaces where the metal does not contact.

I hope that makes sense to you.

In the photo showing the top plate, there are 4 threaded insert in the top plate. The on at bottom of photo looks different than the other 3. It this true or photo making it look different?

I'm sure we can figure this out.


----------



## giygas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I cannot tell for sure but the TIM looks quite thick on the bottom of cooler.
> How big a dob of TIM are you using?
> I would estimate my application "dob" is about 3mm in diameter.
> When cooler is mounted the TIM squeezes out and there should be metal to metal contact with the TIM filling any spaces where the metal does not contact.
> 
> I hope that makes sense to you.
> 
> In the photo showing the top plate, there are 4 threaded insert in the top plate. The on at bottom of photo looks different than the other 3. It this true or photo making it look different?
> 
> I'm sure we can figure this out.


I put just a nice grain-of-rice-sized amount. When I reapplied, I also made sure it was better centered. As you can see in the photos the first time was a little bit off center.

I am not sure what you mean about the threaded inserts, though. They all look the same to me.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giygas*
> 
> I put just a nice grain-of-rice-sized amount. When I reapplied, I also made sure it was better centered. As you can see in the photos the first time was a little bit off center.
> 
> I am not sure what you mean about the threaded inserts, though. They all look the same to me.


The fact that you feel it is "sagging" could be the result of cooler not being tightly pressing against CPU. The TIM print on cooler looks like this may be the problem. If the cooler was not pressing tight against CPU, the print normally looks like this. Notice how we can see the both CPU and cooler metal surfaces through the TIM.
 
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/What-is-the-Best-Way-to-Apply-Thermal-Grease-Part-1/1303/10

Hardware Secrets tested how much TIM is needed years back. Their results show that less is better than more. Their best results were from smallest amounts of TIM. The TIM prints above are their "Tiny Dot"

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/What-is-the-Best-Way-to-Apply-Thermal-Grease-Part-1/1303/10


----------



## giygas

I think I have it tightened pretty well though. I used their included screwdriver and screwed in the mounting points until they bottomed out and stopped turning.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giygas*
> 
> I think I have it tightened pretty well though. I used their included screwdriver and screwed in the mounting points until they bottomed out and stopped turning.


Not doubting you have the crossbar screws tight. Just looking at the TIM print and how it looks like it is not pressed out to give metal to metal contact.


----------



## ciarlatano

I have seen the R1 used as a comparison unit on AMD in a couple of reviews, and the performance was not as expected. I initially tossed it off to the reviewers either doing something wrong, or.....

Maybe there is some type of issue. Possibly a bad run of AMD mounts?

And I agree with doyll - looking at your TIM spread there does not appear to be near enough pressure on your mount. We just need to figure out why....and the whole bowing thing you have going on is strange, as well. Something just isn't right here.


----------



## doyll

Only AMD near me is wife's Athlon II X4 [email protected] under a Zaward Vapor 120. A nice little cooler. Been running for years ... and I dare not touch her machine under penalty of serious bodily harm.


----------



## miklkit

It looks like that is the stock AMD backing plate and it is flexed. It is not designed for something as heavy as a twin tower. The metal backing plate on my HE01 is twice that thick and it does not flex.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giygas*
> 
> I think I have it tightened pretty well though. I used their included screwdriver and screwed in the mounting points until they bottomed out and stopped turning.


DV Tests shows detailed pictures of R1 AMD installation. Check it out to be sure your installation is correct.
http://www.dvtests.com/cryorig-r1-universal-test-review/


----------



## giygas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> DV Tests shows detailed pictures of R1 AMD installation. Check it out to be sure your installation is correct.
> http://www.dvtests.com/cryorig-r1-universal-test-review/


Read the review and everything looks right to me, mounting wise. It is very easy to install after all. Maybe it's just my mobo (ASUS M5A99FX Pro R2.0).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> It looks like that is the stock AMD backing plate and it is flexed. It is not designed for something as heavy as a twin tower. The metal backing plate on my HE01 is twice that thick and it does not flex.


Nope, that is the AMD plate that came with the cooler. I actually checked my boxes to make sure I didn't use the wrong one


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giygas*
> 
> Read the review and everything looks right to me, mounting wise. It is very easy to install after all. Maybe it's just my mobo (ASUS M5A99FX Pro R2.0).
> 
> Nope, that is the AMD plate that came with the cooler. I actually checked my boxes to make sure I didn't use the wrong one



I find it hard to believe it's the motherboard, but I suppose anything is possible.
I know this sounds stupid, but
Was the backing plate flat before you installed it? It is hard to imagine the 3.37mm vertical edges flexing. It should have a plastic surface on it that fits against the back of motherboard and nothing else, with studs going through motherboard holes from back,
Nothing on top of motherboard but screw pillars, and screw pillars tight
Nothing between screw pillars and top plate
Thumb screw caps onto screw pillars tight.
The only reason I ask is in order for cooler to not press down tight onto CPU, the mount top plate has to be the proper height above motherboard. Just a fraction of a mm too much and cooler will not mount tightly onto CPU.

If it was mine, I would that it completely off down to bare motherboard, carefully check everything, and re-install. If you are not sure about anything take pictures and show us.

I do not know about AMD mount, but Intel mount does not fit tight on motherboard ... it is loose on motherboard until cooler is mounted.


----------



## giygas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If it was mine, I would that it completely off down to bare motherboard, carefully check everything, and re-install. If you are not sure about anything take pictures and show us.
> 
> I do not know about AMD mount, but Intel mount does not fit tight on motherboard ... it is loose on motherboard until cooler is mounted.


The AMD one was loose too, until the cooler was mounted on. I'll take it off again and triple check everything one more time


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giygas*
> 
> The AMD one was loose too, until the cooler was mounted on. I'll take it off again and triple check everything one more time


Please take pictures and post them so we can see as much detail as possible so we can get this figured out.


----------



## giygas

This time, I put a Noctua NH-U14S on in the Cryorig's place to compare. Welp, sad news, the single tower cooler with just its one stock fan is keeping my chip idling at 29-30C which is 2-3 degrees cooler than the R1...AND it's pretty much dead silent spinning at 800 rpm. I plugged a hard drive in and it's louder than the Noctua. I did use Noctua's thermal paste when I mounted it though. Why was the R1 so much louder?

I will need to wait until tomorrow to post a few photos because I'm out of data and I don't have wifi here.

Let me go run prime95 for a while.

...well it still reached 57C, not exactly stellar.


----------



## doyll

That is sad news.
Because it indicates the R1 has a mounting issue.
Reviews I've seen all show R1 out performing U14S by a few degrees on stock CPUs. Overclocked the difference is more like 5-8c .. sometimes even more.
Sound level of U14S is only 0.9dBA quieterr ... and it take at least 3dBA for us to be able to hear a difference. R1 is 41.7dBA to U14S 40.8dBA ... 0.9dBA difference ... not enough difference for human ear to hear it.
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2014/03/04/cryorig_r1_ultimate_cpu_air_cooler_review/3#.U7uwZnZ43rk

Does the U14S sag the same as R1 did? It is 246g lighter (935g vs 1181g) and 3mm shorter.


----------



## giygas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> That is sad news.
> Because it indicates the R1 has a mounting issue.
> Reviews I've seen all show R1 out performing U14S by a few degrees on stock CPUs. Overclocked the difference is more like 5-8c .. sometimes even more.
> Sound level of U14S is only 0.9dBA quieterr ... and it take at least 3dBA for us to be able to hear a difference. R1 is 41.7dBA to U14S 40.8dBA ... 0.9dBA difference ... not enough difference for human ear to hear it.
> http://www.hardocp.com/article/2014/03/04/cryorig_r1_ultimate_cpu_air_cooler_review/3#.U7uwZnZ43rk
> 
> Does the U14S sag the same as R1 did? It is 246g lighter (935g vs 1181g) and 3mm shorter.


Well I should clarify that the Noctua definitely didn't outperform the R1 by any means, it was about on par with the numbers you quoted. I guess I was just too hasty and looked at the idle temperatures from a cold start. But it was significantly quieter. Yes it only had one fan and Noctua fans are known to be very quiet, but it was way more than a <1dB difference. Maybe it was my mobo's fan control messing up fan speeds on the R1 and creating turbulence and whatnot.

And I do not think that the Noctua sagged like I noticed the R1 did. R1 mounting was all properly attached when I took it off...the back mounting plate I noticed was _very_ slightly curved/flexed, but I highly doubt it was to a degree that would cause any issues. The stock AMD backplate was the same way.


----------



## CrazyElf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kishagi*
> 
> Hmm, I cant make up my mind, should I get the Cryorig Ultimate or go for watercooling?


If you mean by an all-in-one vs a dual tower, pick the R1.

If you mean full scale watercooling, if your GPU temps are really high and you have the time/money to do a proper water cooling set up, go for it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giygas*
> 
> Well I should clarify that the Noctua definitely didn't outperform the R1 by any means, it was about on par with the numbers you quoted. I guess I was just too hasty and looked at the idle temperatures from a cold start. But it was significantly quieter. Yes it only had one fan and Noctua fans are known to be very quiet, but it was way more than a <1dB difference. Maybe it was my mobo's fan control messing up fan speeds on the R1 and creating turbulence and whatnot.
> 
> And I do not think that the Noctua sagged like I noticed the R1 did. R1 mounting was all properly attached when I took it off...the back mounting plate I noticed was _very_ slightly curved/flexed, but I highly doubt it was to a degree that would cause any issues. The stock AMD backplate was the same way.


You may have received a defective unit.

This is something worth keeping an eye on. If only a handful of people complain about sagging, it's probably ok. Otherwise, this may be an issue worth looking at more in depth.

Otherwise, this cooler seems to be the current champion, at least on LGA 2011. It has outperformed the D15 on 2011, but not 1150. Perhaps that has something to do with the contact area?


----------



## Steve-S

Hi giygas
,

This is Steve from CRYORIG, I normally don't post directly but I think this an issue which me and my team should handle directly.

First of all there are some things I would like to ask about your R1.



Right here I see some odd scratches on the top and lower left corner of the base. I can't tell what caused this, but it shouldn't be there.

On the pic of the backplate, I also see the backplate being bent outwards. However, this is close to impossible to happen by the weight of the heatsink. Also, the impact of a bent backplate should not be as great as you guys think. Mechanically, the height difference between the pillars should be within single digit microns. However, this is just in theory as obviously your heatsink is not performing to it's potential. A lot of factors can play into this.

Lets first check a few things for trouble shooting. Pleas PM me your mailing address I'll send over a new AMD backplate, and also take a picture of it on a flat surface to establish that it's flat as it's meant to be. Then we'll see if that solves anything. When installing with the new backplate, please check if the TIM is still thick and clogged up on the center. When I apply TIM I like to thin it out so that it's close to being translucent, right before you can begin to see the model numbers on the CPU.

BR
Steve-S


----------



## giygas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Hi giygas
> ,
> 
> This is Steve from CRYORIG, I normally don't post directly but I think this an issue which me and my team should handle directly.


hey cool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Right here I see some odd scratches on the top and lower left corner of the base. I can't tell what caused this, but it shouldn't be there.


I can't say for sure how the scratches got there either. They were not present when I first opened the box. Maybe it happened when I was trying to mount it for the first time. I had a hell of a time getting both screws into their spots on the mounting bracket, I'd get one of them in and then wouldn't be able to force the screw on the other side in, and kept switching back and forth until I finally had them both locked down. I had no trouble with this when I remounted it though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> On the pic of the backplate, I also see the backplate being bent outwards. However, this is close to impossible to happen by the weight of the heatsink. Also, the impact of a bent backplate should not be as great as you guys think. Mechanically, the height difference between the pillars should be within single digit microns. However, this is just in theory as obviously your heatsink is not performing to it's potential. A lot of factors can play into this.


I didn't think that would be a huge factor. But it could be contributing to whatever mounting problems I seem to be having. (So maybe it was "sagging" because it wasn't being held tightly enough against the motherboard)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Lets first check a few things for trouble shooting. Pleas PM me your mailing address I'll send over a new AMD backplate, and also take a picture of it on a flat surface to establish that it's flat as it's meant to be. Then we'll see if that solves anything. When installing with the new backplate, please check if the TIM is still thick and clogged up on the center. When I apply TIM I like to thin it out so that it's close to being translucent, right before you can begin to see the model numbers on the CPU.


I was actually getting ready to get a replacement from Newegg. Should I go through with that first, or get the new backplate and try that first?

Thanks for your help









Also here is a picture of the TIM from the second time I took it off, I forgot to take a picture of what it looked it like on the cooler before I wiped it off


----------



## Dyaems

I have a lot of scratches too with the base of my C1, specially at the sides, I'm guessing that it happens during mounting it the first time-- base getting scratches from the top of the processor.


----------



## Steve-S

When screwing the spring screws, a generally you would want to get both only slightly screwed in and set, before screwing the screws all the way down. This way it's not only easier, you also don't risk apply excessive stress on the mounting screws. Screwing one side fully down makes it extremely difficult and in some cases will even cause the screw to break at the threaded area due to excessive lateral force.


I would suggest to wait for our brackets to arrive. If this doesn't work then I think going through Newegg RMA would be faster to replace the whole unit.


----------



## doyll

Good to see you again Steve!

Having Cryorig on forums reading what we are saying about their products and jumping in to solve problems shows how dedicated Cryorig is to customer support!


----------



## giygas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> When screwing the spring screws, a generally you would want to get both only slightly screwed in and set, before screwing the screws all the way down. This way it's not only easier, you also don't risk apply excessive stress on the mounting screws. Screwing one side fully down makes it extremely difficult and in some cases will even cause the screw to break at the threaded area due to excessive lateral force.


Yes, I do follow this practice, especially with coolers with four mounting screws that I used in the past. I did not tighten one of the R1 screws all the way before applying the other, I just made sure it was in one turn or so, tugged at it lightly to make sure it wouldn't pop out before going for the second screw.


----------



## Steve-S

Hi Doyll,

Yes, it's been crazy busy as we're preparing our H series heatsinks. But yes we're always monitoring the web about all things CRYORIG (insert creepy emoticon)

To Giygas,

Understood. The memo wasn't directed at you entirely, OCN readers generally have a lot more sense when it comes to things like that. I just thought it was a good time/place to post that memo. You have no idea how many people send in units for refund stating "Heatsink Impossible to Install."

BR
Steve


----------



## doyll

No creepy emotion need. Just good customer support!


----------



## RyuVsJaquio

I've read through this entire thread but didn't notice if anyone has tried this cooler with 2 (or 3!) TY-143 fans running at full bore. Would it be worth the added expenditure over the stock fans? I've really been pouring over air coolers in preparation for my impending X99 build and just want to get as solid a setup as I can.







The new H5 cooler intrigues me as well, as I appreciate the smaller coolers quite a bit (hence my interest in the Thermalright 140 True Power.)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyuVsJaquio*
> 
> I've read through this entire thread but didn't notice if anyone has tried this cooler with 2 (or 3!) TY-143 fans running at full bore. Would it be worth the added expenditure over the stock fans? I've really been pouring over air coolers in preparation for my impending X99 build and just want to get as solid a setup as I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new H5 cooler intrigues me as well, as I appreciate the smaller coolers quite a bit (hence my interest in the Thermalright 140 True Power.)


I have R1 Ultimate, I have TY-143 fans .. but I have not R1 with them .. yet.









Also have TRUE Spirit 140 Power .. and a mate tested it, NH-D14 and TRUE Copper using TY-143 fans.








http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=269339



TY-143s have so much airflow there is little reason to double up on TRUE Spirit 140 Power. Better to use the 2nd fan as case exhaust to remove all the heated air coming out of cooler .. that a smaller fan cannot do.


----------



## RyuVsJaquio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have R1 Ultimate, I have TY-143 fans .. but I have not R1 with them .. yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also have TRUE Spirit 140 Power .. and a mate tested it, NH-D14 and TRUE Copper using TY-143 fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=269339


Yes indeed, you showed me this very link in the TRUE Sprit 140 Power thread.









If you ever get time, I would very much appreciate you placing those 143s on the R1.


----------



## doyll

Putting them on is the easy part. I will need to do some crazy overclocking to get enough heat to make use of them. [email protected] is [email protected] I would need to be push 4.0 or maybe 4.2GHz to get enough heat to test at 2500rpm.


----------



## JambonJovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Having Cryorig on forums reading what we are saying about their products and
> jumping in to solve problems shows how dedicated Cryorig is to customer support!


This.

It's nice to see a company going that extra bit further.


----------



## Scorpion49

So I came across this cooler while looking at moving away from the crappy AIO I have, the Corsair H40. I would have a problem with the RAM height because I use Vengeance with the taller heat spreaders, I was wondering if it would be better to get the Ultimate and move the front fan to the back or just get the Universal one? I like the looks of the Universal a lot but I can't seem to find a review where both are compared side by side to see what the difference is.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> So I came across this cooler while looking at moving away from the crappy AIO I have, the Corsair H40. I would have a problem with the RAM height because I use Vengeance with the taller heat spreaders, I was wondering if it would be better to get the Ultimate and move the front fan to the back or just get the Universal one? I like the looks of the Universal a lot but I can't seem to find a review where both are compared side by side to see what the difference is.


R1 Ultimate with the fans where they belong and remove the heat spreaders on the hidden RAM.

Short of that, you lose very little in terms of performance with the Universal, and due to the footprint the Ultimate can be kind of cumbersome in many cases trying to do a rear fan.


----------



## Scorpion49

I'm not removing my RAM heatsinks, I don't have a job at the moment so I've already sold off some of my water gear to get a few parts but I can't afford to break anything or lose the warranty on what I have. I guess I'll just go for the universal then.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I'm not removing my RAM heatsinks, I don't have a job at the moment so I've already sold off some of my water gear to get a few parts but I can't afford to break anything or lose the warranty on what I have. I guess I'll just go for the universal then.


I thought the spikes came off with two screws on the side - I am probably confusing it with Dominator or a different Vengeance version.

But, yes, the Universal would be the way to go.


----------



## Scorpion49

Yeah mine look like these:



Guess I'll order up the Universal this weekend.


----------



## doyll

R1 Universal will clear your RAM socket by 3.5mm .. assuming I did the math correctly.








X58A-UDR3 is 53mm from CPU centerline to side of RAM socket.
R1 Universal is 35.5mm CPU centerline to front of cooler plus 14mm for fan = 49.5mm
R1 Ultimatge is 40mm CPU centerline to front of cooler plus 27mm for fan = 67mm


I would be surprised it there is more than a few degrees difference between them. They have same size and number of pipes, just offset back more and


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> R1 Universal will clear your RAM socket by 3.5mm .. assuming I did the math correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> X58A-UDR3 is 53mm from CPU centerline to side of RAM socket.
> R1 Universal is 35.5mm CPU centerline to front of cooler plus 14mm for fan = 49.5mm
> R1 Ultimatge is 40mm CPU centerline to front of cooler plus 27mm for fan = 67mm
> I would be surprised it there is more than a few degrees difference between them. They have same size and number of pipes, just offset back more and


Ah darn, thanks for doing all that but I have sold the X58 system and traded for a 3570k and Asus Z77-V Pro, I'm sure it will clear the slots on this one. +rep anyways


----------



## doyll

Thnx, Asus Z77-V Pro is about the same.


----------



## afokke

Is the only major difference between the R1 Ultimate and R1 Universal that the Universal has the heatpipes bent back a little bit more so there will be better RAM clearance? are the fins/towers dimensions the same? I like the Universal's compatibility but I don't like the white so I think I will get the black Ultimate and then get a XT140 fan so that only the first DIMM slot is blocked.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> Is the only major difference between the R1 Ultimate and R1 Universal that the Universal has the heatpipes bent back a little bit more so there will be better RAM clearance? are the fins/towers dimensions the same? I like the Universal's compatibility but I don't like the white so I think I will get the black Ultimate and then get a XT140 fan so that only the first DIMM slot is blocked.


Universal as 14mm thick front fan and Ultimate has 26mm thick front fan. Fin area and pipe size are basically the same, but a little better RAM clearance.


----------



## Treeman574

Any chance we might see these coolers in Australia?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Treeman574*
> 
> Any chance we might see these coolers in Australia?


Good question!
I just assumed they were available down under.








Will see if find a source for you Aussies.


----------



## dgershko

do you think i will be able to fit hyperx beast ram with the r1 ultimate? its hight is 46mm, but its curved......im hoping its curved in such a way to fit the fan


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgershko*
> 
> do you think i will be able to fit hyperx beast ram with the r1 ultimate? its hight is 46mm, but its curved......im hoping its curved in such a way to fit the fan


What is the distance from the center of your CPU to RAM socket?
The R1 Ultimate is 67mm from center of CPU to front of fan.
The R1 Universal is 49.5mm from center of CPU to front of fan.


----------



## dgershko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What is the distance from the center of your CPU to RAM socket?
> The R1 Ultimate is 67mm from center of CPU to front of fan.
> The R1 Universal is 49.5mm from center of CPU to front of fan.


I'm not sure..... I have the msi z97 gaming 5 mobo ....


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgershko*
> 
> I'm not sure..... I have the msi z97 gaming 5 mobo ....


Than measure from the center of a mount stud to RAM socket and add 40mm (mount studs are 80mm center to center)


----------



## dgershko

The total distance is about 60mm.but my question remains. The ram I have is curved, it's 42mm in the middle and 46 at its edges. Will the curved shape help compatibility?


----------



## doyll

R1 Ultimate:

Center of CPU to front of fan is 67mm.
Bottom of fan will only clear 35-38mm
As you have said you only have 60mm R1 Ultimate will not fit.
R1 Universal:

Center of CPU to front of fan is 49.5mm
As you have said you have 60mm R1 Universal will fit with room to spare.


----------



## JambonJovi

Just out of curiosity, the R1 shouldn't have any
issues fitting into a Fractal Design Arc Mini R2, right ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JambonJovi*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, the R1 shouldn't have any
> issues fitting into a Fractal Design Arc Mini R2, right ?


Cryorig R1 is 168.3mm tall.
Arc Midi R2 supports coolers up to 180mm.
So yes, it will fit. But your RAM may not fit under the fan.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JambonJovi*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, the R1 shouldn't have any
> issues fitting into a Fractal Design Arc Mini R2, right ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Cryorig R1 is 168.3mm tall.
> Arc Midi R2 supports coolers up to 180mm.
> So yes, it will fit. But your RAM may not fit under the fan.


Arc *Mini* R2 has 165 mm clearance as per specs, easily done







Probably a bit tight, might be some flex in the window though, cant say for sure


----------



## doyll

Ups.








My R1 cooler measures 165mm without fans. Fans can be mounted flush with top. It is 8mm from base of cooler to motherboard (CPU surface is 8mm above motherboard). RAM socket raised RAM 3mm.

After all the calculation is done, a case with 165mm CPU clearance and a cooler with 140mm fan over the RAM, the RAM can be no taller than 30mm to fit or the fan will be too tall.


----------



## JambonJovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> Arc *Mini* R2 has 165 mm clearance as per specs, easily done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably a bit tight, might be some flex in the window though, cant say for sure


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Ups.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My R1 cooler measures 165mm without fans. Fans can be mounted flush with top.
> It is 8mm from base of cooler to motherboard (CPU surface is 8mm above motherboard).
> RAM socket raised RAM 3mm.
> 
> After all the calculation is done, a case with 165mm CPU
> clearance and a cooler with 140mm fan over the RAM,
> the RAM can be no taller than 30mm to fit or the fan will be too tall.


The calculations are strong with this one.









Cheers lads, I'll keep all the numbers in mind.
Reason I asked is only because pcpartpicker
has flagged these two as being incompatible.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







But as doyll said, there shouldn't be an issue
once the RAM is under 30mm. Something like
the Crucial Ballistix Tactical should do the trick then
"towering" at a mere 25.50mm

REPs to both of ye gents.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JambonJovi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> Arc *Mini* R2 has 165 mm clearance as per specs, easily done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably a bit tight, might be some flex in the window though, cant say for sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Ups.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My R1 cooler measures 165mm without fans. Fans can be mounted flush with top.
> It is 8mm from base of cooler to motherboard (CPU surface is 8mm above motherboard).
> RAM socket raised RAM 3mm.
> 
> After all the calculation is done, a case with 165mm CPU
> clearance and a cooler with 140mm fan over the RAM,
> the RAM can be no taller than 30mm to fit or the fan will be too tall.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The calculations are strong with this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers lads, I'll keep all the numbers in mind.
> Reason I asked is only because pcpartpicker
> has flagged these two as being incompatible.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But as doyll said, there shouldn't be an issue
> once the RAM is under 30mm. Something like
> the Crucial Ballistix Tactical should do the trick then
> "towering" at a mere 25.50mm
> 
> REPs to both of ye gents.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Please let us know when you get it built and post some pics.


----------



## JambonJovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks! Please let us know when you get it built and post some pics.


Hah, I wish man. Right now it's just a distant idea in my head









It would be something like this, just so I could see how far the
Pentium can be pushed with the R1 cooler. I would eventually
upgrade it to an i5 or i7. The reason I specifically chose the Arc Mini
is just because it's such a great looking little case and would be
ideal for me for a water-cooled setup later down the line too...

PCPartPicker part list

*CPU:* Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor
*CPU Cooler:* CRYORIG R1 Ultimate 76.0 CFM CPU Cooler
*Motherboard:* MSI Z97M Gaming Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
*Memory:* Crucial Ballistix Tactical 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
*Storage:* Kingston HyperX 3K 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
*Storage:* Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
*Video Card:* Gainward GeForce GTX 760 2GB Phantom Video Card
*Case:* Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 MicroATX Mini Tower Case


----------



## dgershko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JambonJovi*
> 
> Hah, I wish man. Right now it's just a distant idea in my head
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would be something like this, just so I could see how far the
> Pentium can be pushed with the R1 cooler. I would eventually
> upgrade it to an i5 or i7. The reason I specifically chose the Arc Mini
> is just because it's such a great looking little case and would be
> ideal for me for a water-cooled setup later down the line too...
> 
> PCPartPicker part list
> 
> *CPU:* Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor
> *CPU Cooler:* CRYORIG R1 Ultimate 76.0 CFM CPU Cooler
> *Motherboard:* MSI Z97M Gaming Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
> *Memory:* Crucial Ballistix Tactical 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
> *Storage:* Kingston HyperX 3K 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
> *Storage:* Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
> *Video Card:* Gainward GeForce GTX 760 2GB Phantom Video Card
> *Case:* Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 MicroATX Mini Tower Case


The cooler will cost more than the CPU?
Not a good idea....


----------



## JambonJovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgershko*
> 
> The cooler will cost more than the CPU?
> Not a good idea....


Why not ?


----------



## dgershko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JambonJovi*
> 
> Why not ?


Because you can spend a lot less on the cooler and get a much better CPU...
Its like getting an i7 and a gtx 660-you're better off with an i5 and a 670 or 770


----------



## JambonJovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgershko*
> 
> Because you can spend a lot less on the cooler and get a much better CPU...
> Its like getting an i7 and a gtx 660-you're better off with an i5 and a 670 or 770


That's not the point here. I am aware of how much the cooler costs
and the CPU is the least of my worries. I am not looking for a budget
build in this thread. My intentions are to push the Pentium as far as
possible specifically with the R1 cooler purely out of curiosity,
but mainly for the lulz tbh. Get a few months use out of it and that's it.

You may have missed the bit about the CPU upgrade.
The G3258 will either get toasted, put into a HTPC or sold.
Either way it will get upgraded/swapped for an i5 (most likely).


----------



## doyll

To me the biggest advantage of having a top of the line cooler is how quiet it is most of the time. Having so much cooling ability means the fans idle most of the time.

My sig system never goes above 50c or 1200rpm .. even when working at 100% load. It is only running 3.66GHz but with 6 cores / 12 threads it does everything I want quite fast.







.. and it's almost silent. The HDDs make more noise then anything else in the system.


----------



## GAMERIG

thread is SUPER-interesting, and CRYORIG R1 COOLER looks so SEZY!


----------



## CrazyElf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JambonJovi*
> 
> That's not the point here. I am aware of how much the cooler costs
> and the CPU is the least of my worries. I am not looking for a budget
> build in this thread. My intentions are to push the Pentium as far as
> possible specifically with the R1 cooler purely out of curiosity,
> but mainly for the lulz tbh. Get a few months use out of it and that's it.
> 
> You may have missed the bit about the CPU upgrade.
> The G3258 will either get toasted, put into a HTPC or sold.
> Either way it will get upgraded/swapped for an i5 (most likely).


A delid will get you another 10 degrees down in temps, assuming it is done well.

Realistically though you're looking at about 4.8 GHz at perhaps 1.33V ish. I would not run the chip higher than 1.35V for long term health.
- 1.4V if you want the chip to last at least a year
- 1.5V and it will be dead in a few months most likely

It seems Haswell is much more sensitive to high voltages than prior chips.

YMMV though of course. The silicon lottery is very fickle I fear. I have heard of chips that have cleared 5 GHz at 1.35V, although that is far from the norm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Treeman574*
> 
> Any chance we might see these coolers in Australia?


No luck down under? Still no word about it in here Canada either. We always seem to miss the boat on everything.









If all else fails, the Noctua D15 is more or less trading blows with this cooler. This cooler runs a bit cooler, but Noctua seems to be a bit quieter, although that may be a function of the fans.

What I'd love to see is an Apples to Apples comparison, ex take a 2 Gentle Typhoons AP15s or Noctua's fans, run then on an LGA 2011 socket, and then see who wins. I don't seem to see a review that has done that.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyElf*
> 
> [
> 
> No luck down under? Still no word about it in here Canada either. We always seem to miss the boat on everything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If all else fails, the Noctua D15 is more or less trading blows with this cooler. This cooler runs a bit cooler, but Noctua seems to be a bit quieter, although that may be a function of the fans.
> 
> What I'd love to see is an Apples to Apples comparison, ex take a 2 Gentle Typhoons AP15s or Noctua's fans, run then on an LGA 2011 socket, and then see who wins. I don't seem to see a review that has done that.


Email [email protected] and ask about getting one. They might be able to make it happen.









I'm trying to test both with TY-143 as reference fans, but do not have a 2011 to test on, only i7 920.


----------



## PowerSlide

email them and they can get me a R1, waiting how much will it be

living in 3rd world got left out is always sucks


----------



## doyll

Thanks for letting me know. I hate waiting for price quotes.


----------



## PowerSlide

$23 for shipping, add the cooler and then exchange rate don't look too bad on my calculator but can be a hassle if stuck at custom as things like this should not be taxable but can be make taxable









D15 the easier, i can get it cheaper and just a 5 minutes drive


----------



## doyll

I hear you.

I prefer the Cryorig but D15 is good too.
NH-D15 is 150 x 136 x 165mm
Cryorig . is 140 x 117.4x168.3mm
Difference -10 x -18.6 x +3mm.


----------



## PowerSlide

bought D15









if they're available here later i want cryorig fans on D15


----------



## doyll

The D15's NF-A15 PWM fans are very good.
They are 1500rpm, not 1200rpm like the NF-A15 PWM you can buy.
The added 300rpm gives an extra 24.7m³/h of rated airflow .. 140,2m³/h instead of 115,5m³/h.
They are only available in cooler packages.


----------



## PowerSlide

they are saying don't mess with our knowledge and engineering just use the fans provided









cryorig fans looks nice


----------



## doyll

Both the Cryorig XF140 and XT140 are nice .. both in looks and performance.


----------



## HiTechPixel

So, change of plans for me. I'll be skipping Noctua fans and go all Cryorig, a long with the Cryorig R1 Ultimate CPU-cooler. I have a few questions though:

I plan on replacing all my case fans with XF140s. Is the frame that of a typical 140mm frame in that it fits snug or is it actually larger than a normal 140mm fan frame?

What's the best way of controlling fan speeds? Via my motherboard or via permanently setting them to 5V/7V/9V/12V?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> So, change of plans for me. I'll be skipping Noctua fans and go all Cryorig, a long with the Cryorig R1 Ultimate CPU-cooler. I have a few questions though:
> 
> I plan on replacing all my case fans with XF140s. Is the frame that of a typical 140mm frame in that it fits snug or is it actually larger than a normal 140mm fan frame?
> 
> What's the best way of controlling fan speeds? Via my motherboard or via permanently setting them to 5V/7V/9V/12V?


The XF140 is pretty much standard 140mm fan with 105mm mounting hole spacing .. which is 120mm fan mount size. With the rubber pads on both side is measures 27mm thick, without vibration pads it is 25mm thick and 140x140mm in size.

As they are PWM fans I would suggest using the PWM signal from CPU fan header and possibly GPU fan header to control case fans. This allows fans to idle slow and quiet until more CPU / GPU start working and speed up the fans to keep cool. All of my build use automatic control. First link in sig explains how to do it.


----------



## HiTechPixel

Thanks for an awesome reply. I'll go ahead and order all of those fans! Air-cooling rule!!!

As for controlling the fans, would it be possible to run them all of the CPU_FAN header? I believe I have two on my motherboard (MSI X99S SLI PLUS) so I think connecting three to each should be good, even if I run the fans at max speed?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> Thanks for an awesome reply. I'll go ahead and order all of those fans! Air-cooling rule!!!
> 
> As for controlling the fans, would it be possible to run them all of the CPU_FAN header? I believe I have two on my motherboard (MSI X99S SLI PLUS) so I think connecting three to each should be good, even if I run the fans at max speed?


All depends on how many you plan to run. I don't know what the load rating of the XF140 is but similar fans are about 0.2 amp which is 2.4 watt. As fan headers are usually rated about 1 amp / 12 watt I wouldn't run more then 4 fans on CPU fan and CPU opt headers .. because the CPU opt header is often just a second header on the same traces as CPU fan. But as my first link below says, use PSU powered PWM splitter or hub and you can run 8-10 fans. Above that the PWM signal may not be strong enough for the fan PWM PCB sensor to read it.


----------



## HiTechPixel

4 fans, huh? At worst case, I'll be using 7 but that could be dialed down. Two on the cooler, one in the rear, one in the top and three in the front would be my optimal setup. I don't want to connect them all the CPU_FAN and CPU_FAN2 or whatever it's called and fry my motherboard and everything. But that the same time, I don't want to run them at 12V all the time from the PSU.

Are there any good low-speed adapters? Do the Noctuas fit well with other fans despite them claiming that they're specifically for Noctua fans?


----------



## HiTechPixel

Actually, now that I'm wondering about fans and such, what's a good fan setup in a NZXT H440 using a Cryorig R1 Ultimate with two fans and a non-reference GPU cooler?


----------



## doyll

PWM fans always run at 12 volt, but it is pulsed to control the fan's speed.

PWM plug is:
Pin 1 = Ground
Pin 2 = constant 12 volt
Pin 3 = RPM signal from fan
Pin 4 = PWM signal from motherboard to fan

PWM fans have a small PCB that receives the PWM signal on pin 4 from motherboard PWM and pulses the full 12 volt power lead to the fan.

So fan can have power coming from PSU instead of motherboard and still be controlled by PWM from motherboard.


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> So fan can have power coming from PSU instead of motherboard and still be controlled by PWM from motherboard.


This is particularly interesting. So if I went ahead and did it this way, all fans would read the PWM signal from the motherboard and recieve the power from the PSU? In turn, this means that they do not draw any power, if only little at all, from the fan header on the motherboard. Is that correct? Even if I connect a lot of fans?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> This is particularly interesting. So if I went ahead and did it this way, all fans would read the PWM signal from the motherboard and recieve the power from the PSU? In turn, this means that they do not draw any power, if only little at all, from the fan header on the motherboard. Is that correct? Even if I connect a lot of fans?


PSU powered PWM splitter or hub draw no power from motherboard.
Two leads to / from each fan from PSU;
+12v power lead to each fan from PSU
Ground lead from each fan to PSU connector.
Two leads to / from motherboard;
RPM lead from one fan to motherboard
PWM leads from motherboard to each fan.

Here is a drawing of how a PWM splitter with PSU power is wired up.


----------



## Chris Ihao

Yay! Just ordered a Cryorig R1 Universal for my i4790k and MSI Z97 Gaming 7. Had no clue this thing even existed until PontiacGTX here suggested it. Just the thing for me as I got those stupid Corsair Vengeance sticks (four of them=16 gigs), and I dont want to risk messing them up by decasing as I bought them so early it may be proper thermal glue on them.

Anyhow. Looks like a great cooler! I also ordered a NZXT Sentry 3 fan controller and three Noctua AF-14 PWM's (140mm) to finally get my airflow straightened out properly. Had a wakeup call when I finally popped off the top lid on my "not so silent anymore" Obsidian 550D, and put two second grade 120mm's there, as the cpu and gpu temperatures pummeled. I think two AF-14's will be a nice boost, as well as replacing the rear Corsair air 140mm with another AF-14, while moving the Corsair to replace the bottom 120mm Noctua NF-P-12, as I'd rather have a steady but weaker intake and a more powerful outtake of air. Actually I'm realizing the Obsidian 550d is a nice little case, once I'm getting the air flowing the right way.

Anyhow, look forward to mounting the Cryorig and testing the 4790k at higher speeds and voltages (now at 4.5 ghz, 1.2 volts). Will post back here. Cheers ppl!


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> PSU powered PWM splitter or hub draw no power from motherboard.
> Two leads to / from each fan from PSU;
> +12v power lead to each fan from PSU
> Ground lead from each fan to PSU connector.
> Two leads to / from motherboard;
> RPM lead from one fan to motherboard
> PWM leads from motherboard to each fan.


Interesting. Do you know if the NZXT H440's built-in fan hub works this way? In that it receives RPM/PWM from motherboard and only power from the PSU?


----------



## JambonJovi

Doyll, have you seen this ? http://www.overclock.net/t/1508027/recruiting-air-cooling-editor

Seems like you'd be the man for the job


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> PSU powered PWM splitter or hub draw no power from motherboard.
> Two leads to / from each fan from PSU;
> +12v power lead to each fan from PSU
> Ground lead from each fan to PSU connector.
> Two leads to / from motherboard;
> RPM lead from one fan to motherboard
> PWM leads from motherboard to each fan.
Click to expand...

Interesting. Do you know if the NZXT H440's built-in fan hub works this way? In that it receives RPM/PWM from motherboard and only power from the PSU?

The fan hub in NZXT H440 uses 12v power from PSU to power all fans at 12v. No PWM control involved. It's just a power splitting hub.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JambonJovi*
> 
> Doyll, have you seen this ? http://www.overclock.net/t/1508027/recruiting-air-cooling-editor
> 
> Seems like you'd be the man for the job


Seems like a lot of bother for not.








Maybe if they ask for help.


----------



## Khalenth

I have Asus Maximus V gene & Kingston HyperX Beast , CRYORIG R1 Ultimate it's compatible with that? Thanks .


----------



## Dyaems

HyperX Beast is a very tall ram, I don't think it will fit with the thick stock fan from the Ultimate. If you would go with the Universal, which has a slim fan infront, maybe it will fit.


----------



## JambonJovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khalenth*
> 
> I have Asus Maximus V gene & Kingston HyperX Beast,
> CRYORIG R1 Ultimate it's compatible with that? Thanks .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> HyperX Beast is a very tall ram, I don't think it will fit with the thick stock fan from the Ultimate.
> If you would *go with the Universal, which has a slim fan in front, maybe it will fit.*


THIS.

Here is a picture of the R1 Ultimate used on a MVG and as you can see the fan is blocking
the first 2 RAM slots so the only way to use your RAM would be in single channel.



In order to have the clearance for all 4 slots (if you use 4 RAM modules) you're going
to have to go with the R1 Universal and a slim fan in the front, like in the next picture.



If you only use 2 RAM modules, you should be able to get away with the R1 Ultimate+Slim Fan.


----------



## doyll

Indeed. Has to be 49-50mm.

R1 Ultimate without the fan will fit with 14mm to spare , but fan will overhang RAM by 12mm.
R1 Universal will fit with fan with 5-6mm to spare.
Or use one of the XT140 fans and clips on the front of Ultimate.









Edit:
This happens when sidetracked and don't post until I got back.


----------



## Treeman574

I'm considering doing a mid tower x99 build with this cooler, but I'm unsure about the compatibility. Will probably go with the gigabyte x99 ud4 in a corsair 450d case. It has 165mm of cpu clearance according to corsair's website. Obviously with the x99 ram slot configuration, the R1 Universal will not be any better than the R1 Ultimate. If I use ram such as this, will it be able to fit? Does anyone know if the 450d has some flex in the window?









http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231789

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148860

The next question is if the first pci slot will be blocked by the cooler...


----------



## doyll

X99-UD4 has about 115mm between RAM sockets.
Not center of socket, but side of socket across CPU to side socket.
This means 57.5mm from center of CPU to socket.

Here is R1 Ultimate and Universal measurement drawing. Vibration pads add 1.5mm to overall size of fan).


----------



## Treeman574

Interesting. I didn't realise the x99 ram slots were spaced that far apart. Looks like I'll be going with the R1 Universal, thanks!


----------



## doyll

Here's the image I scaled. May not be perfect .. maybe +/- 1-2mm .. which is part of reason scale from side of sockets to center of CPU and not the slot in the sockets.


----------



## Chris Ihao

Wow! These coolers really ARE great (R1 Universal in my case). Got mine last night and after a slight "doh" moment where I mounted the bent brackets that the cooler itself stands on the wrong way (making me believe that mobo heatsinks were blockibg the cooler), everything went really smooth. By far the easiest cooler to mount during my 35 years of breathing.
I can gladly confirm that there is good clearance between the cooler and my 4 Corsair Vengeance chips, on my MSI Z97 Gaming 7.

I have run tests for about 1.5 hours after raising the oc on my 4790k from 4.5 to 4.7, using a measured 1.312 Volts on the cpu. Realtemp shows max temps of 77-78 Celcius at this Voltage, while my good ol' TRUE 120 reached 80+ C. on a 4.5, 1.20 V. oc.

VERY happy about my choice in other words. Hoping the test completes its 12 hour run while Im at work. Then Ill just call it a day for now. Oh, and finally I got some more white to go with my Noctuas









Cheers guys! Enjoy your Cryorigs.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris Ihao*
> 
> Wow! These coolers really ARE great (R1 Universal in my case). Got mine last night and after a slight "doh" moment where I mounted the bent brackets that the cooler itself stands on the wrong way (making me believe that mobo heatsinks were blockibg the cooler), everything went really smooth. By far the easiest cooler to mount during my 35 years of breathing.
> I can gladly confirm that there is good clearance between the cooler and my 4 Corsair Vengeance chips, on my MSI Z97 Gaming 7.
> 
> I have run tests for about 1.5 hours after raising the oc on my 4790k from 4.5 to 4.7, using a measured 1.312 Volts on the cpu. Realtemp shows max temps of 77-78 Celcius at this Voltage, while my good ol' TRUE 120 reached 80+ C. on a 4.5, 1.20 V. oc.
> 
> VERY happy about my choice in other words. Hoping the test completes its 12 hour run while Im at work. Then Ill just call it a day for now. Oh, and finally I got some more white to go with my Noctuas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers guys! Enjoy your Cryorigs.


"Ain't real until we see pics!"









Mounting really is easy to do. I think a chimp could do it and performance is as good as it gets.


----------



## Chris Ihao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> "Ain't real until we see pics!"


Your wish is my command!







There you go.

Regarding the 4.7 oc; the computer rebooted after approximately six hours.







Getting close though. Raised my cpu voltage by 0.010 and have started another round of testing. Will post the results once I get a stable run. Goes to show that longer testing is neccessary to be sure.

Anyhow, I have yet to see the 80C mark show up yet. The maximum shown so far in this run is 78C, and this is in a really hot room with barely any ventilation at the moment (I am purposefully testing under these conditions to confirm performance in a "worst case scenario"). This cooler is awesome!









Edit: re-uploaded the pics after enhancing them a bit, as they were really dark. Still is a bit on the dark side, but at least its better.


----------



## doyll

Nice looking rig!








Thanks for the pics. Always love pices.









Couple of suggestions:
* Generally raising the case up some to get 35-30mm of space between case bottom and surface it sets on improves bottom vent airflow and also quiets the bottom fans. With 2x 140mm fans we have about 280sq cm of fan airflow area, but case setting on 18mm feet is only giving about 150-160sq cm of airflow area to the fans. 3cm of clearance is about 310sq cm of airflow area.
* If you could move the HDD in top cage up into or on bottom of 5.25 bays and remove that cage your front intake could move much more air toward GPUs & CPU/.
* Don't use the back fan vent on top and turn the front one on top to intake.
* Use your most powerful fans as front and bottom intakes.
* Remove unused PCI-e slot covers to help front to back airflow around coolers.
The above may improve cooling or maybe only some will help. I use a cheapo indoor / outdoor wired digital thermometer to see what CPU and GPU cooler intake air temp is. Can usually get it to less then 3c above room ambient at full load. CPU & GPU peaking in less then 5 minutes (usually 2-3 minutes) and never going any higher indicates there is no heated air mixing with cool intake air.


----------



## Chris Ihao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> Nice looking rig!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The above may improve cooling or maybe only some will help. I use a cheapo indoor / outdoor wired digital thermometer to see what CPU and GPU cooler intake air temp is. Can usually get it to less then 3c above room ambient at full load. CPU & GPU peaking in less then 5 minutes (usually 2-3 minutes) and never going any higher indicates there is no heated air mixing with cool intake air.


First of all, thanks for your compliment man. Also, thanks for your advice. The feet suggestion is spot on. I just wonder how I should do this without it looking ugly bugly and/or becoming unpractical. Any suggestions?

The air vent suggestion is also an interesting one, but Id prefer not to make my newly purchased $20 something 140mm Noctua fan redundant (stupid sentiment I know). I'm not entirely sure about this either. The top 770 gives off quite a bit of heat, and Im not sure if bringing a downstream into the fray is beneficial. With all this CFM on the top I think quite a bit of cooler air will reach the Cryorig, as I feel there is a rather big area of cool air between the bottom and top fans at the moment, and most likely I will wait with trying this one out. Or, what do you think?

Getting three powerful static pressure fans tomorrow or on monday which will be used for upper and lower intakes and for the top pull fan (to cool the SLi top card), which also should pull in some more air. Oh, and I also got a 140 mm Corsair like the one on the bottom, on the side door (to cool the SLied 770s top plates a bit and bring in more air). IF I should consider taking out the rear top fan I would probably exchange this Corsair with the Noctua.

The HDD could be moved I guess, but there are actually two of them that needs moving. I could keep the two SSDs in the bottom cage, then move two of the standard ones up to the 5.25. I need some kind of adapter then though.

I have never before spent so much time and money to optimize my airflow. Its fun though







Should probably consider getting a thermometer.
Thanks again man








The back pci-e covers actually got a row of quite big square holes in them (less metal than "air"). Should be enough, right?

Edit: Already ordered the 5.25 to 3.5 (and SSD) adapters







Also Rep rep rep


----------



## EternalRest

I just purchase the R1 Universal. Should be here in a within a few days.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris Ihao*
> 
> First of all, thanks for your compliment man. Also, thanks for your advice. The feet suggestion is spot on. I just wonder how I should do this without it looking ugly bugly and/or becoming unpractical. Any suggestions?
> 
> The air vent suggestion is also an interesting one, but Id prefer not to make my newly purchased $20 something 140mm Noctua fan redundant (stupid sentiment I know). I'm not entirely sure about this either. The top 770 gives off quite a bit of heat, and Im not sure if bringing a downstream into the fray is beneficial. With all this CFM on the top I think quite a bit of cooler air will reach the Cryorig, as I feel there is a rather big area of cool air between the bottom and top fans at the moment, and most likely I will wait with trying this one out. Or, what do you think?
> 
> Getting three powerful static pressure fans tomorrow or on monday which will be used for upper and lower intakes and for the top pull fan (to cool the SLi top card), which also should pull in some more air. Oh, and I also got a 140 mm Corsair like the one on the bottom, on the side door (to cool the SLied 770s top plates a bit and bring in more air). IF I should consider taking out the rear top fan I would probably exchange this Corsair with the Noctua.
> 
> The HDD could be moved I guess, but there are actually two of them that needs moving. I could keep the two SSDs in the bottom cage, then move two of the standard ones up to the 5.25. I need some kind of adapter then though.
> 
> I have never before spent so much time and money to optimize my airflow. Its fun though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should probably consider getting a thermometer.
> Thanks again man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back pci-e covers actually got a row of quite big square holes in them (less metal than "air"). Should be enough, right?
> 
> Edit: Already ordered the 5.25 to 3.5 (and SSD) adapters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also Rep rep rep


As my cases always set on floor they are on castor bases. Gives added airflow to bottom and ease of movement.








First column is Fractal Design R2 with 40mm castors. Second is Phanteks Enthoo Primo with 30mm castors.
 
 

The fans you have are probably fine. Don't remember what you said your best are now .. or if I said to check out first two links in sig. I feel having case fans function the same way CPU and GPU fans do is a much improved way to control case airflow. It allows CPU and GPU to get case airflow as needed .. it is just an extension of how they control their own cooler fans.

As for fan placement, the back fan on top could simply be unplugged to with front on turned to intake to see what it does for temps.

@ EternalRest
I'm sure you will be very pleased with it.


----------



## Chris Ihao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EternalRest*
> 
> I just purchase the R1 Universal. Should be here in a within a few days.


Conrats man! You WILL like it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The fans you have are probably fine. Don't remember what you said your best are now .. or if I said to check out first two links in sig. I feel having case fans function the same way CPU and GPU fans do is a much improved way to control case airflow. It allows CPU and GPU to get case airflow as needed .. it is just an extension of how they control their own cooler fans.
> 
> As for fan placement, the back fan on top could simply be unplugged to with front on turned to intake to see what it does for temps.


Yeah, I might try to do that doyll.







I've just completed a 24 hour run 4.7 ghz on my 4790k. Max temperatures measured on my cpu was 79 C. through the whole period. Personally I'm ok with that as temperatures have been quite high here in the apartment, with little fresh air coming in. Here are some pics:



This is after 14 hours.



This an hour after completing the run. Was sleeping at the time it completed









The three new static pressure fans going into the front slots will primarily help keep the 770's cool, but it will be fun to see how this affects the cpu temperatures as well. Thanks again for you tips man. Looking forward to removing that upper disk cage.


----------



## doyll

No problem Chris. Please let us know how it goes. Input like your often helps me learn how to better advise others.


----------



## Chris Ihao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No problem Chris. Please let us know how it goes. Input like your often helps me learn how to better advise others.


Once again your wish is my command, and I will try to contribute in your quest of knowledge







First of all, cool setup with those castors. Forgot to mention it in my previous comment. Practical if you need to move it around a bit, although in my case (pun not intended) there isnt really much space to move anything around in. I think I may get away with not raising the cabinet further. I will comment on why shortly. Before I say anything else, yes I know air is chaos theory, but what I am about to say is a generalization of how the air moves in my case, in other words how *most* of the air moves.

Well, I have now tried to reverse the front top fan, while disabling the rear one, to see how that would go. I actually built up some expectations as there was some logic to this. I thought perhaps the fresh air being pumped straight into the cpu fans, and to the further interior of the case, would cause the heat of both the cpu and the top gpu to decrease further. However, after testing with x264 and monitoring with hwinfo for a period of time, I have to say that the result is the opposite. Although not radically different, the results were that the cpu temperatures increased faster, then peaked at a noticeable point of 2-3 c. higher than with my original setup. Both the tests for comparison were run for at least 5 minutes. I also, for funs sake (and since the rear top fan did seem to exhaust quite a bit of heat) tried to enable the top rear fan (in exhaust mode) as well as the top front fan (in intake mode), but that had no positive effect on this small increase in temps.

Let me post a pic to explain what I think happens in my cabinet running my original (top fans outtake) setup (be aware that the three front intake fans are now Noctua NF-F12 static pressure fans instead of the pictured ones):



My theory when building this fan setup was that the top outtake fans would suck some much need air from the front intakes gets pulled upwards towards the cpu cooler, while also making sure that the air coming in from the bottom gets pulled up where it belongs. I have based this setup on a negative pressure setup instead of a positive one, as this just felt sensible with my case and general setup. When I feel the air coming out from the top Noctuas, the air that comes from the rear one is quite warm, while the one coming from the front one is very cool. This make me think that the rather big pocket of cool air, additionally cooled by the effect of suction, makes this air readily available for the intake of the Cryorig R1 Universal. If i push the air down this air will in fact just bounce off in all kind of directions and pick up some of the heat from the top GTX 770 before it gets sucked into the Cryorig.

The rear top fan *has* a positive function as it works as a second exhaust, and also as a indirect third cpu cooler fan, creating a cooling suction effect on the fins of the Cryorig. The newly added static pressure fans in the front does not affect the cpu cooler as much, but keeps the 770's cooler and prevents the gpu fans from spinning up as high as before (and retains the factory overclock longer before clocking down). When I get the new 5.25 disk bays later today I will, like said in the picture, move two of the clunky hdd's up to these, leaving two ssd's and one hdd in the remaining bottom cage. This will leave a better gap than before in the bottom, while like you said, giving a much better airflow at the place where the top cage was. Looking forward to seeing how this will affect the gpu temps.

Anyhow, of course these are only theories of mine, but the findings are what they are, and at least there has to be some merit to the way I have been thinking in regards to this setup. For orders sake here is the actual setup of fans, running in "performance mode". I am using low noise adaptors on all the Noctuas as my fan controller can only go down to 40% of original speed in quiet mode, and I never use the full 1500 RPM's anyways:

3 front fans: 120 mm Noctua NF-F12 @ an average of 870 RPM
2 top fans: 140 mm Noctua AF-A14 @ an average of 950 RPM
1 rear fan 140 mm Noctua AF-14 @ an average of 950 RPM
1 bottom 140 mm Corsair Air @ an average of 825 RPM
1 side fan 140 mm Corsair Air @ an average of 800 RPM
4 GPU fans controlled automatically, rear exhaust
2 Cryorig fans connected to mobo, automatically controlled with PWM
(PSU bottom intake fan)

Like you can see this is a setup based upon minimizing noise by rather having bigger fans and overall slower speeds, and trying to keep the air flowing steadily instead of forcing the air out. Its like the sneaky maiden who lures the fool to his doom on the cliffs, rather than the brutish barbarian who chase and eventually forcefully throw the fool out of the same cliffs. As I am basing my setup on negative pressure I dont really think I need to raise the cabinet further, as I actually *dont want* the bottom fan to perform at its best. On its low RPM settings it doesnt really make all that much noise either.

I would expect that there could be room for improvement here, but seeing that the cpu temps @ 4.6 ghz (1.272 volts) are peaking and stabilizing at a maximum of 72 c, and the gpu seems to thrive at 80 c. at ok noise levels (fan profile is not very aggressive, so eventually it has to reach 80 c. at some point), I would say that this quest is rather successful. Remember that before I started this airflow improvement project I was living with fear of my top gpu melting at nearly 90 c, and my cpu becoming destabilized any second and degrading due to borderline dangerously high heat levels.

Hope this in some way helps mate. Will do an update once I get the top cage out of the way, perhaps already later today. Please do tell me if you need further details, and obviously some feedback on my "theories" and findings above would be nice









See you later man. Have a great day


----------



## doyll

A cheapo digital indoor / outdoor wired remote sensor thermometer is very handy for monitoring air temps inside of case and on cooler / GPU intakes.








A cheap indoor/outdoor thermometer with a piece of insulated wire and a plastic clothspin works great.
Made up with floral wire and tape. We don't want anything to short out with metal.









Clip and position sensor where I want to check the temp. Make it easy to see what the air temp going into components actually is relative to room temp.








When system is working air temps going into coolers will be 2-3c warmer than room.. up to about 5c is okay.
Edit:
Thanks for the reply. Always nice to know the results. Good or bad, it's useful information.


----------



## RyuVsJaquio

Any word yet Doyll on when we can expect to see an H5 review?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyuVsJaquio*
> 
> Any word yet Doyll on when we can expect to see an H5 review?


Mum's the word
Sorry, but if I told you I would have to retire you.








I have used it and I really like it. Let's just say it's not your ordinary 4x heat-pipe cooler.


----------



## CrazyElf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Here's the image I scaled. May not be perfect .. maybe +/- 1-2mm .. which is part of reason scale from side of sockets to center of CPU and not the slot in the sockets.


Hmm ... it looks like then that the D15 would interfere with the first PCI-E slot.

The R1 might be a close fit though. Hmm, would it be a problem if the cooler and touched the backplate of the GPU? I'm planning an X99 build, but the motherboard is yet to be determined.

Considered:
- MSI X99 XPower
- Gigabyte X99 SOC Force
- Asus X99 WS
- Maybe Asrock X99 OC Formula

No final decision yet.

Compatibility though according to Noctua:
http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=compatibility_gen&products_id=68&lng=en

Cannot use first GPU slot for any of these choices which is a problem considering I'm planning dual GPU. '

Estimate for X99 XPower:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chris Ihao*
> 
> Once again your wish is my command, and I will try to contribute in your quest of knowledge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First of all, cool setup with those castors. Forgot to mention it in my previous comment. Practical if you need to move it around a bit, although in my case (pun not intended) there isnt really much space to move anything around in. I think I may get away with not raising the cabinet further. I will comment on why shortly. Before I say anything else, yes I know air is chaos theory, but what I am about to say is a generalization of how the air moves in my case, in other words how *most* of the air moves.
> 
> Well, I have now tried to reverse the front top fan, while disabling the rear one, to see how that would go. I actually built up some expectations as there was some logic to this. I thought perhaps the fresh air being pumped straight into the cpu fans, and to the further interior of the case, would cause the heat of both the cpu and the top gpu to decrease further. However, after testing with x264 and monitoring with hwinfo for a period of time, I have to say that the result is the opposite. Although not radically different, the results were that the cpu temperatures increased faster, then peaked at a noticeable point of 2-3 c. higher than with my original setup. Both the tests for comparison were run for at least 5 minutes. I also, for funs sake (and since the rear top fan did seem to exhaust quite a bit of heat) tried to enable the top rear fan (in exhaust mode) as well as the top front fan (in intake mode), but that had no positive effect on this small increase in temps.
> :


In general it is better to exhaust hot air out then it is to pump cool air in with hot air. You get into a situation where cool air and hot air mixes, which creates a hot spot.

The other thing to remember is that each set up is different and the only thing you have to lose is a bit of time to unscrew a fan, reboot a computer and try again.









That and the R1 is quite an upgrade over the AIOs. From a noise to performance ratio anyways. Maybe things might change with the 360 AIOs?


----------



## EternalRest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @ EternalRest
> I'm sure you will be very pleased with it.


I hope so. I think my h100i has a bad pump. My idle temps are high at 48*. It used to idle at 35*. Load temps went from 68* to 85*. I could RMA it but I want something new and RMAs takes some time. R1 should be here Friday. Saturday mourning, it will installed and hopefully, doing a better job then what the h100i is doing.


----------



## doyll

Only suggestion on installing is do a "practice" install after mount is installed. Sometimes the springs on the cross-bar mounting screws are a little stiff and it takes a pretty good push to get screws to start the first time or two. Installing without TIM is a quick easy way to flex the springs for easier install


----------



## Chris Ihao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EternalRest*
> 
> I hope so. I think my h100i has a bad pump. My idle temps are high at 48*. It used to idle at 35*. Load temps went from 68* to 85*. I could RMA it but I want something new and RMAs takes some time. R1 should be here Friday. Saturday mourning, it will installed and hopefully, doing a better job then what the h100i is doing.


Yeah. Thats what happened to a guy I know as well. I wanted to test his temperatures for him, just to see how well his water based cooler worked, and while running Prime unattended for a while I suddenly saw that his temperatures soared to about 95 C. on some of the cores of his 4770k. Its downright dangerous as you get no heads up. Helped him buy a small Noctua cooler, and it worked really really great for its size, and kept his temperatures low even after oc'ing it a bit. Other than that, in more complex wc setups I find the concept of having water inside of my computer unnerving, as any tube or failing clamp can spell disaster. Again, Im sure you will like it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Only suggestion on installing is do a "practice" install after mount is installed. Sometimes the springs on the cross-bar mounting screws are a little stiff and it takes a pretty good push to get screws to start the first time or two. Installing without TIM is a quick easy way to flex the springs for easier install


Yeah. I'm glad I practiced for a while, keeping on the safety plastic of the base of the cooler for a while, as I messed up the orientation of the mount. Having added thermal paste and an exposed cooler base would have been a total mess. Hehe. Once I realized this (having slapped myself for a while), it was a breexe. I still recommend you have proper lighting so you can visually line it up correctly. I also love how you can mount/dismount this thing without removing the fans


----------



## doyll

Cryorig are the easiest mounting cooler I've ever installed. Well, some of the old clip-ons of 10-15 years ago were easy too, but they were tiny little things. Toughest part with Cryorig is getting cooler positioned properly and getting screwdriver into screw heads .. not a big deal at all.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Cryorig are the easiest mounting cooler I've ever installed. Well, some of the old clip-ons of 10-15 years ago were easy too, but they were tiny little things. Toughest part with Cryorig is getting cooler positioned properly and getting screwdriver into screw heads .. not a big deal at all.


I second that. The Noctuas with the new SecuFirm 2 are a close second.


----------



## doyll

Indeed, Noctua are a close second .. so close it requires a photo-finish to see the difference.


----------



## HelloPsp

I like this cooler. Before i use H100i temp over 80c now R1 Universal not over 80c.


----------



## doyll

Sounds good.








Is it quieter too?








Do you know what the air temp going into cooler is compared to room temp? If it's more then a couple degrees warmer than room we can probably get your temps even lower.


----------



## EternalRest

Running better than the H100i I had.


----------



## doyll

Just love seeing air coolers beating H100i CLC coolers.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just love seeing air coolers beating H100i CLC coolers.


It's been happening for a long time. It seems that it is only recently that people are realizing it. Imagine when they start throwing the noise levels into the conversation.....


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It's been happening for a long time. It seems that it is only recently that people are realizing it. Imagine when they start throwing the noise levels into the conversation.....


Noise level and cooler intake air temp. Most reviews are in cases with stock cooling .. and more often than not stock case cooling is not up to the task at hand. We need cooler / radiator intake air temps as well as room ambient to know not just how well the cooler & system perform, but how well the coolers themselves compare with same / similar intake air temperature.


----------



## EternalRest

Does adding a 3rd fan makes a difference?


----------



## doyll

Third fan might give 1c improvement. Optimizing case airflow ad cooling would be my first move to lower temps. 2nd link in sig explains how.


----------



## Nopileus

Because the Ultimate is out of stock i ordered a Universal and an extra XF140, am i right in thinking the heatsink itself is the same except for the 5mm further offset?

I hope this won't come back and bite me in the ass later


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nopileus*
> 
> Because the Ultimate is out of stock i ordered a Universal and an extra XF140, am i right in thinking the heatsink itself is the same except for the 5mm further offset?
> 
> I hope this won't come back and bite me in the ass later


They are not exactly the same, but very close to the same.

The fan clips on 25.4mm thick FT140 are different than on the 13mm thick XF140, but it should come with extra fan clips.


----------



## zeromeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> They are not exactly the same, but very close to the same.
> 
> The fan clips on 25.4mm thick FT140 are different than on the 13mm thick XF140, but it should come with extra fan clips.


Do you know if there has been a comparison to see if there is a performance difference of the ultimate vs universal aside from the cooling affect of a 13mm fan vs 25mm? I'm assuming there would be none or very little as reading your post on page 20 you noticed an 67g difference in weight.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeromeep*
> 
> Do you know if there has been a comparison to see if there is a performance difference of the ultimate vs universal aside from the cooling affect of a 13mm fan vs 25mm? I'm assuming there would be none or very little as reading your post on page 20 you noticed an 67g difference in weight.


On my screen this is page 18.









The R1 Ultimate and Universal weight the same, but the XT140 is 67gm lighter than XF140.








XT140 has 11cfm less airflow so I would assume the R1 Universal would run a degree or two warmer.

Honestly, the difference between cooler is minimal. You can make more than 1-2c better cooling by optimizing your case airflow. My guess is with 2x XT140 fans both coolers perform the same.


----------



## Wimstrek

Aawesome cooler

Hello, Can I use the Cryorig R1 ultimate with a 2011-3 mobo? Or, Is the upgrade pack needed if i buy it brand new?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wimstrek*
> 
> Aawesome cooler
> 
> Hello, Can I use the Cryorig R1 ultimate with a 2011-3 mobo? Or, Is the upgrade pack needed if i buy it brand new?


The LGA 2011-1, 2011-2 and 2011-3 sockets are physically the same size where dimensions are concerned. Since there's no significant changes in size, only functionality, any cooler designed to mount on LGA 2011 should mount on 2011-2 and 2011-3 with no problems.


----------



## Wimstrek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The LGA 2011-1, 2011-2 and 2011-3 sockets are physically the same size where dimensions are concerned. Since there's no significant changes in size, only functionality, any cooler designed to mount on LGA 2011 should mount on 2011-2 and 2011-3 with no problems.


Thanks, but I was wondering about this: http://www.cryorig.com/news.php?id=24&page=1


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wimstrek*
> 
> Thanks, but I was wondering about this: http://www.cryorig.com/news.php?id=24&page=1


Interesting....

My reply was based on other sources including Noctua who say all 2011 mounts are the same.
Quote:


> *Is the cooler compatible with the LGA2011-3 socket?*
> Yes. Due to the heatsink mounting mechanism being identical on LGA2011-0 and 2011-3, the cooler supports both types of LGA2011-3.


and
Quote:


> Due to the heatsink mounting mechanism being identical on LGA2011-0 and 2011-3, Noctua's previous SecuFirm2™ mounting systems for LGA2011 also support Intel's upcoming 'Haswell-E' X99 platform.


Everything I've read says they are the same.
I will find out and post as soon as I know.


----------



## Nopileus

I just got my R1 Universal (plus extra XF140) and will likely mount it to an Asus X99-A tomorrow or the day after, i see no reason why it wouldn't fit.
Maybe they adjusted the length slightly due to the Haswell-e CPUs being slightly thicker?

Quite impressed with the quality so far, easily on par with the Thermalright coolers i've had over the years. (ultra 120, ifx-14, archon)


----------



## doyll

I suppose it's possible, but I would think if that is true that others besides Cryorig would be doing upgrades ..

The 4-pipe Ultra 120 A? Got one myself.








Don't have IFX-14 but have Cogage Arrow.








Recently added Archon IB-E X2.


----------



## Wimstrek

Cryorig customer service response about compatibility (2011-3) and the 2011-3 upgrade kit :
Quote:


> Actually this will depend on your board of choice. However, if you can provide the product registration code and a proof of purchase of a LGA2011-3 board, we will provide this item to you free of charge.


----------



## doyll

Direct for Cryorig with a little more explanation the customer service.
Quote:


> Here is the issue with our LGA2011-system:
> 
> The LGA2011-3 screws are slightly shorter than the LGA2011 Screws we include with our products. Our original screws are compatible with LGA2011 X79 mainboards, with only a few exceptions. However, for LGA2011-3 many board manufacturers have switched backplates, and with our PCB cuttings for the screws. On X79 most boards used the Type A backplate and mounting mechanism, while on LGA2011-3 many boards are using the Type B variation and no through holes for the mounting.


Type A Compatible
 

Type B Not Compatible
 

Hope that explains it.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Love the aesthetic design of R1, but wonder is it better than SB-E EXTREME or IB-E Extreme, after all I'm chasing the best performance.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> Love the aesthetic design of R1, but wonder is it better than SB-E EXTREME or IB-E Extreme, after all I'm chasing the best performance.


If you strapped some 2500rpm TY143 fans onto the R1 Ultimate would perform around the same if not a bit better. If you can deal with the noise of course


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> If you strapped some 2500rpm TY143 fans onto the R1 Ultimate would perform around the same if not a bit better. If you can deal with the noise of course


How much performance difference between IB-EXTREME and original SB-E EXTREME? The former has less number of fins, so performance impact is inevitable.


----------



## doyll

From my experience the performance is almost the same. I think Silver Arrow IB-E is slightly better, but the difference is very hard to document. Same applied to R1 Ultimate and R1 Universal, NH-D15, etc. The differences in performance between the top coolers is very little.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

I'm sure Doyll or someone else knows that better then me what the real life difference is, I thought the main difference between the two was that the heatsink on IB-E was offset more for better PCI-e slot clearance. I can't recall much noise about any extreme differences in performance between the two and they have the same size and number of heatpipes. I'll leave it there for someone to confirm, deny or correct.


----------



## Nopileus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Direct for Cryorig with a little more explanation the customer service.
> Type A Compatible
> 
> Type B Not Compatible
> 
> Hope that explains it.


Well damn.

My board still hasn't been shipped but i guess i'm screwed.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> How much performance difference between IB-EXTREME and original SB-E EXTREME? The former has less number of fins, so performance impact is inevitable.


I haven't calculated the actual fin area but there is only one fin difference. Like I said, IB-E is slightly better.
SA SB-E has 41 full size, 6 medium & 4 small fins compared to SA IB-E having 45 full size fins.
At extreme levels the IB-E is a little better.
I like it's offset and slightly lower height better.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I haven't calculated the actual fin area but there is only one fin difference. Like I said, IB-E is slightly better.
> SA SB-E has 41 full size, 6 medium & 4 small fins compared to SA IB-E having 45 full size fins.
> At extreme levels the IB-E is a little better.
> I like it's offset and slightly lower height better.


I understand you doyll, but performance-wise, the original SB-E is surely better than IB-E as IB-E has less number of fins leading to less area to dissipate the heat. A lot of fins on the bottom of the heatsink are missing for IB-E


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> I understand you doyll, but performance-wise, the original SB-E is surely better than IB-E as IB-E has less number of fins.


No, Surly isn't involved in this.








Tests by myself and others verify what I said. There are many thing involved besides number of fins; the heat pipes, base design and contact area to heat pipes, fin to heat pipe, etc. Obviously ambient temp of test changes results, but I've also noticed a change is cooling with changes in humidity and / or barometric pressure too.


----------



## asfgbdnf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No, Surly isn't involved in this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tests by myself and others verify what I said. There are many thing involved besides number of fins; the heat pipes, base design and contact area to heat pipes, fin to heat pipe, etc. Obviously ambient temp of test changes results, but I've also noticed a change is cooling with changes in humidity and / or barometric pressure too.


With less number of fins, theoretically, the cooling performance of IB-E is inferior, assuming all other factors that will affect the performance are the same, agree?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asfgbdnf*
> 
> With less number of fins, theoretically, the cooling performance of IB-E is inferior, assuming all other factors that will affect the performance are the same, agree?


But all other factors are not the same. The simple fact is SA IB-E is a little better.
Your theory was false because you did not include all the variables .. and I don't care about hearing any new theories. I would rather rely on good factual testing results.









Oh, and Cryorig R1 Ultimate is just as good as Silver Arrow IB-E.


----------



## THEStorm

So Doyll, for you hard earned money, if you were going to go out and buy a high end cooler right now, what would you buy?


----------



## Nopileus

So having compared the LGA2011 screws with ones from a Raijintek Aidos and pictures of several others i can safely say that the screw thread on the Cryorig ones is longer than average. (probably too long as they say)

Guess i finally have a reason to get that Thermalright VX bolt through kit for my IFX-14 so i can use that until Cryorig send me the new screws...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THEStorm*
> 
> So Doyll, for you hard earned money, if you were going to go out and buy a high end cooler right now, what would you buy?


Wow! There at is not an easy question to answer. There are many variables involved here; appearance, noise level, case size and airflow, overclocking or not, GPU size and heat displacement to name a few. I will gladly discuss this with you, but I think it would be best to start a thread rather than do it on the Cryorig R1 thread.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nopileus*
> 
> So having compared the LGA2011 screws with ones from a Raijintek Aidos and pictures of several others i can safely say that the screw thread on the Cryorig ones is longer than average. (probably too long as they say)
> 
> Guess i finally have a reason to get that Thermalright VX bolt through kit for my IFX-14 so i can use that until Cryorig send me the new screws...


I only have the screw pillars that come with cooler. Is it the pillar / spacer part or the length of the thread that is different?

IFX-14 is a classic!
Getting the mount sounds like a win / win to me.


----------



## Nopileus

The screw thread that enters the socket is longer than on any other example i can find, the Type B socket doesn't allow for the screw to peek out on the bottom so it can't be too long.

We'll see what happens, for now it seems the store messed up and can't deliver half the stuff i ordered...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nopileus*
> 
> The screw thread that enters the socket is longer than on any other example i can find, the Type B socket doesn't allow for the screw to peek out on the bottom so it can't be too long.
> 
> We'll see what happens, for now it seems the store messed up and can't deliver half the stuff i ordered...


Sorry to hear that.

I did some more digging and the LGA2011-1 Z-height is 0.467mm shorter than LGA2011-3. How much that will affect mounting with spring loaded mounts I don't know, but so far most manufactures do not seem to be worried about it.
Z-height:
LGA2011-0 8.014mm +/-0.34mm
LGA2011-3 8.481mm +/-0.270mm
difference = 0.467mm


----------



## noobrifle

Wish I'd read this thread earlier, as I just tried installing the R1 universal cooler on an asus x99 deluxe and this happened:


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noobrifle*
> 
> Wish I'd read this thread earlier, as I just tried installing the R1 universal cooler on an asus x99 deluxe and this happened:


Bummer.
You broke the threaded part off of spring loaded mounting screw trying to tighten it after screw snugged up?

Send Cryorig an email at
http://www.cryorig.com/contact_us.php

Include pictures and explain of what happened.
Please keep us posted of what happens.


----------



## noobrifle

Yeah it snapped whilst tightening. The strange part being the screw didn't seem that tight at the time, and I was taking turns at screwing in either side to provide even tension. Not sure if this is related to the 2011v3 screw height difference.

Unfortunately I ordered the cooler from Germany (I'm in Australia) so any kind of rma might be fun!


----------



## doyll

Contact Cryorig directly. I'm sure they will get you sorted out.









Email
[email protected]

Include pictures and explanation of what happened


----------



## noobrifle

Cheers doyll, I've already contracted cryorig so I'll keep the thread informed.

Still feel like a bit of a numpty for breaking the screw!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noobrifle*
> 
> Cheers doyll, I've already contracted cryorig so I'll keep the thread informed.
> 
> Still feel like a bit of a numpty for breaking the screw!


It happens. The only way we learn how much is too much is when they break.









The Cryorig mount is so easy compared to others I can see how you would not know it was tight. Reason is good threading on screw and nut. There is little friction as the it threads in even with tension the spring .. it's a sign of quality.









Many other mounts I "practice" assemble to make sure the threads work and often have to add lubricant, but not Cryorig.


----------



## Nopileus

Wow so that screw snapping issue is still a thing? I thought that only happened in the first batch at the beginning of the year.

I finally got the store to sort their crap out so i'll have a board to give mine a try tomorrow, needless to say i'm concerned


----------



## doyll

Screw snapping problem? Never heard of it being a problem.

Glad you got the store sorted.


----------



## Steve-S

Hi noobrifl!

I think our guys replied back to your support email just a few hours ago. Just send us your mailing info and we will be sending you a new mounting kit ASAP!

For users that have not experience this or are thinking about purchasing our heatsinks I would first like to state that the issue has not been wide spread. And is not caused by manufacturing quality issues as some users initially believed.

When we designed the mounting kit we wanted users to screw the spring loaded screws fully tight, and allow spring deformation to produce the necessary mounting force. This way each user will get the exact same down pressure as we intended, so no more guessing as to how tight is tight enough in some other mounting kits.

That's why in our manual we explicitly state to "screw the spring screws to the mounting bar fully tight." However, we did not anticipate how ambiguous "fully tight" meant.

For us what we meant was to stop as soon as you felt the screw get stopped by the socket wall on the mounting bar.

 

However, since our screws are well threaded and also the return force you feel while screwing down is pretty uniform due to the spring system for some it was hard to tell when the screw was stopped by the wall. So some people would continue to screw hard, which eventually would twist the screw in half at it's weakest point.

Although this issue is not wide spread, we have made some alterations in future releases. Our new mounting kits will use a M4 screw head, which is 4mm in diameter compared to the original M3 3mm version. The M4 screws will have no disadvantages or advantages in performance or in ease of installation. Basically just to prevent people from over screwing


----------



## noobrifle

Cryorig support have been very helpful in organising for replacement screws to be sent. I'm not sure if I could source a similar replacement screw from a hardware store to speed up the process, or whether its worth waiting for the lga2011v3 mounting kit before trying to install the cooler again?

The issue is more likely to be my fault than any structural defect. I essentially felt like I was on the last twist of the screwdriver for that side (whilst alternating between twists on each side of the cooler), but didn't feel that final tightness/pushback I'm used to from installing other cpu coolers or devices. Perhaps the Cryorig mounting system is too good in this respect, as I wasn't watching the screw/washer alignment to visibly confirm the tightness.


----------



## Steve-S

Well part of it also has to do with our L shaped screw driver. With the elongated leaver, the amount of torque applied is higher than your regular screw driver.


----------



## doyll

This is Cryorig's great customer support in action.









What Steve-S said. The L shaped screwdriver versus a normal round handle means many times as much torque is very easily applied. It's all about leverage. The relatively hard twist on a 25mm round handle is a light finger push on middle to end of L handle.

The crossbar mounting screw is not something you will find in a hardware or fitting store. It is specifically made for it's application. Cryorig is based in Taiwan so not too far away from you. My guess is you will have their replacement in a few days.


----------



## Nopileus

Well, the standard bolts most certainly don't fit my Asus X99-A, now for another week of waiting for an alternative... (and contacting cryorig for the proper ones of course)

As expected the holes around the socket are closed off and the thread is about a milimeter or two too long.


----------



## doyll

I'm sure Cryorig would accept a copy of order confirmation.

Just send them a copy order conformation request the upgrade and they will send the X99 pillar screw upgrade as soon as X99 motherboard is ordered rather than waiting for motherboard to arrive.

Sorry, I should have suggest that when we first determined what the difference in the pillar screws was.


----------



## Nopileus

Well i've sent everything now, we'll see what happens.

I mainly blame Alternate anyway for having false info on their store page, and Amazon for still not having shipped my thermalright vx bolt through kit








For some reason everything is going wrong right now.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nopileus*
> 
> Well i've sent everything now, we'll see what happens.
> 
> I mainly blame Alternate anyway for having false info on their store page, and Amazon for still not having shipped my thermalright vx bolt through kit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some reason everything in going wrong right now.


Have a pint on me and relax. I know it's frustrating, but it will be really nice when everything goes together.


----------



## Wimstrek

I have bought a raijintek themis for compatibility reasons, I will wait one month or two to buy the R1 ultimate along with a computer case.


----------



## Dyaems

@Doyll, do you now if the R1 fits on a Z87M OC Formula motherboard? Just looking at the specs, I think it will not fit, just want a confirmation for the master.







D14/D15/Assassin does not fit with the motherboard so I assumed that the R1 will not fit as well.

OT: any twin tower Air cooler that you would suggest that fits with a Z87M OC Formula?

Cheers,


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> @Doyll, do you now if the R1 fits on a Z87M OC Formula motherboard? Just looking at the specs, I think it will not fit, just want a confirmation for the master.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D14/D15/Assassin does not fit with the motherboard so I assumed that the R1 will not fit as well.
> 
> OT: any twin tower Air cooler that you would suggest that fits with a Z87M OC Formula?
> 
> Cheers,


What is your definition of fitting? Clearing both RAM and PCIe or just PCIe with RAM being short enough to fit under fan?
I did a quick scaling of ASRock Z87M OC Formula using both motherboard and CPU mounting holes (227mm motherboard and 75mm LGA1150) and this is what I get. I take no responsibility the accuracy of original overlay but it appears to have 75mm from center CPU to side of PCIe socket.


If you can get the measurements from center CPU to side of PCIe socket and RAM socket we can easily verify what coolers will fit .. assuming motherboard heatsinks are not too high to clear bottom of cooler and they don't appear to be.
Here's data to cooler sizes
http://www.overclock.net/t/1487022/help-finding-a-capable-cpu-cooler/0_20#post_22205553


----------



## Dyaems

Oh, sorry, I meant if it will fit without hitting the first PCIe slot, I can use a slim fan for the RAM clearance so there is no problem for that.

I did my research before posting and it seems D14/D15 will not fit on my motherboard according to Noctua Website. I also installed a Deepcool Lucifer before, which I _think_ is a 140mm width cooler, and the heatsink almost touches the back of the graphics card, estimating about 2-3mm clearance. The heatsink will hit the graphics card if there is a backplate mounted.

EDIT: It seems the Noctua Website is mistaken, except for the RAM slot, the D14 fits on a Z87M OC Formula. So now 140mm width coolers really fit on that motherboard.










Sorry for the OT, and i will not bother again!


----------



## Nopileus

Well then, the screws have arrived and i mounted the cooler successfully.
You can see the difference in the screw posts here, the new one is on the left



Also a picture of the PC, i'm happy with how it turned out.


----------



## doyll

I assume you mean the top pillar screw is the 2011-3 one?
I can see the threaded stud on one side is shorter and it look like the pillar may be slightly shorter too .. can't tell for sure from your picture.
Build looks nice!









Couple of suggestions in case you want to lower CPU temp.
If you could move your HDD into 5.25 bays or one in and one below you could move GPU radiator down and the top fan would be flowing cool air toward R1. Removing the PCIe back slot covers will help the front to back airflow from radiator instead of that heated air having to move up and aorund R1 to get to exhaust vent.


----------



## Wimstrek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nopileus*
> 
> Well then, the screws have arrived and i mounted the cooler successfully.
> You can see the difference in the screw posts here, the new one is on the left
> 
> 
> 
> Also a picture of the PC, i'm happy with how it turned out.


Nice, how much clearance is there for the GPU? It seems that graphics with backplates wouldn't fit.


----------



## Nopileus

More than enough, my GPU cooler already has a ~5mm tall mounting bracket and most backplates shouldn't be much thicker than that.
I'd say it's 10-15mm, it only looks so tight due to the angle. For Reference here is a picture the Noctua support sent me regarding the 10mm wider NH-D15

@doyll yes the top one, bloody phone rotated the picture.

I realize the airflow is anything but optimal, but quite frankly i can't be bothered at this point. If it turns out temperatures are too high i might change stuff around.
For now 30 minutes of XTU stress test at 4.2ghz 1.200v got me up to 63°C on the hottest core (default Asus fan curve), seems alright.


----------



## doyll

That's a good temp.








Only reason to change would be to lower noise if it's an issue.

I scaled the pillars from your picture and the 2011-3 is indeed about 0.47mm longer then 2011-1.
(Mount specification is LGA2011-0 = 8.014mm +/-0.34mm; LGA2011-3 = 8.481mm +/-0.270mm; difference = 0.467mm)


----------



## dgershko

Just bought this cooler in Japan.
Was quite hard to find


----------



## THEStorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgershko*
> 
> Just bought this cooler in Japan.
> Was quite hard to find


I was unable to find one here in Canada, sent Cryorig 2 emails and didn't hear back from either of them so I am going D14...


----------



## dgershko

I actually live in Israel, and I sent them mails too,but they responded very fast and told me the shipping costs.
I decided to buy it in Japan instead.
How long ago did you send them the mails?


----------



## doyll

Glad to hear you finally got one dgershko









I love how easy they are to mount .. and perform .. and look.


----------



## Carmaine

I finally bit the bullet as well and bought the R1 Ultimate. I've been using TRUE for over 6 years now.

Let's see if this Cryorig R1 you're praising about can beat these temps.









My TRUE has my 2600k @ 4.9Ghz with temps averaging: 67C:72C:72C:71C

28 hours using Prime95 @ Small FFT's.

http://www.overclock.net/t/968053/official-the-sandy-stable-club-guides-voltages-temps-bios-templates-inc-spreadsheet/10590#post_22985424


----------



## doyll

Good temps with the TRUE. Will be interesting to see what the R1 does.


----------



## dgershko

What kind of deltaT relative to ambient can i expect with the ultimate and 4690k running small fft's?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgershko*
> 
> What kind of deltaT relative to ambient can i expect with the ultimate and 4690k running small fft's?


Room ambient? I don't know because room temp and cooling intake air temp are not the same thing.








Not to mention all the other variables involved.
I will say the R1 Ultimate will cool as good or better than any other cooler. It is on top with very best coolers.


----------



## aerial

I should be able to compare ultimate to macho 140 next week. I don't really need the power of it, as my sandy i7 reaches 4.8 ghz on really low voltage, but got it for the looks. One of better looking black coolers, if not the best.


----------



## Carmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerial*
> 
> I should be able to compare ultimate to macho 140 next week. I don't really need the power of it, as my sandy i7 reaches 4.8 ghz on really low voltage, but got it for the looks. One of better looking black coolers, if not the best.


I'm curious, what are your temps right now with the macho using prime95 small ffts?


----------



## aerial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carmaine*
> 
> I'm curious, what are your temps right now with the macho using prime95 small ffts?


I can give you LinX temps, all threads stressed to 100%.
Cpu is 4.8 @ 1.275V, after 15 minutes of test peak 2 cores 67C, but most of the time 65. Ambient 22.
But that is with one TY-140 fan locked at just 600RPM, and 0 case fans in lian li 1020, fanless psu. So I only have this one cpu fan, and 750ti cooler that runs at minimum 900rpm.
I'll try to do proper comparison in similar ambient temps when I get the cryorig. Maybe with some high voltage to like 1.4V to show the difference.


----------



## Wimstrek

Hello my 5820k is slightly more concave than normal, I know that noctua bases are convex.

What about the Cryorig R1 Ultimate base?

Also any idea about if the ultimate would fit in a gigabyte x99 gaming G1 along with a backplate gpu. (noctua says that the d14 may touch the backplate )

CLC are boring,expensive and noisy...


----------



## Carmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerial*
> 
> I can give you LinX temps, all threads stressed to 100%.
> Cpu is 4.8 @ 1.275V, after 15 minutes of test peak 2 cores 67C, but most of the time 65. Ambient 22.
> But that is with one TY-140 fan locked at just 600RPM, and 0 case fans in lian li 1020, fanless psu. So I only have this one cpu fan, and 750ti cooler that runs at minimum 900rpm.
> I'll try to do proper comparison in similar ambient temps when I get the cryorig. Maybe with some high voltage to like 1.4V to show the difference.


Dude, those are great temps already. I don't wanna sound condescending, but I find it hard to believe you have a Sandy i7 @ 4.8 @ just 1.275V.

I have a 2600k @ 4.9ghz using 1.392V. (See my post above for proof of image)

Either way, you may have a golden chip! And I don't think the temps will get any better with the Cryorig from the Macho.


----------



## aerial

It is selected cpu, got it from friend from other hardware forums. So I had to help my luck a little.. It is one of the old chips, that were great. Previous owner was able to reach stable 4.8 at just 1.265, which might depend on motherboard, because for me it doesn't go that low.
Also I could get such result, only with very few motherboards. For example to get it to 5ghz, no matter what mobo, i need very high voltage of about 1.45.
But as I said, cooler I'm getting is for aesthetics, more than performance.


----------



## Carmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerial*
> 
> It is selected cpu, got it from friend from other hardware forums. So I had to help my luck a little.. It is one of the old chips, that were great. Previous owner was able to reach stable 4.8 at just 1.265, which might depend on motherboard, because for me it doesn't go that low.
> Also I could get such result, only with very few motherboards. For example to get it to 5ghz, no matter what mobo, i need very high voltage of about 1.45.
> But as I said, cooler I'm getting is for aesthetics, more than performance.


Very nice









I agree with you about aesthetics. This has to be the sexiest dual tower heatsink out there. But the nice thing about the R1, is that its not just beautiful, because its also the top 3 air coolers right now. So you're getting the best of both worlds. Its a win-win.

And don't worry about the 1.45V. The VIDs on Sandy's are 1.52V as per Intel.


----------



## aerial

Yea, but I don't think it is worth to increase power consumption that much just to gain 200mhz







Maybe for benchmarks, but 24/7 i prefere slow fans.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wimstrek*
> 
> Hello my 5820k is slightly more concave than normal, I know that noctua bases are convex.
> 
> What about the Cryorig R1 Ultimate base?
> 
> Also any idea about if the ultimate would fit in a gigabyte x99 gaming G1 along with a backplate gpu. (noctua says that the d14 may touch the backplate )
> 
> CLC are boring,expensive and noisy...


R1 Ultimate is slight convex side to side and almost perfectly flat front to back.


----------



## Wimstrek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> R1 Ultimate is slight convex side to side and almost perfectly flat front to back.


Thanks doyll

You mean like the phanteks?



Also I have Gskill Ripjaws 4 40mm tall, I have seen some R1 ultimate reviews that said 35mm others 40mm and I think that another one said much more moving the fan.

Currently I am between the R1 ultimate and the Phanteks TC14PE (with other fans), but I think that the fan clips with the phanteks will touch the back of the gpu, and won't let me use one with backplate (gigabyte x99 gaming G1)


----------



## doyll

The way ruler is on it their is a little light under each side.








Phanteks fan clips can be covered with tape or heat shrink on what sticks out side of cooler.

Cryorig clips are almost flush with sides.

Take a close look at the bottom of the ruler. It's at least 5mm above motherboard.
42mm* RAM just clears fan in highest position
44mm* RAM with fan setting on RAM


*Using Geil Value Plus RAM (37mm tall) leaves 5mm between top of RAM and bottom of fan, and gently lifting the fan up a 7mm spacer slips in easily.. meaning a little tweaking of fan clips and fan would stay up with 7mm clearance.

Edit:
Direct from Cryorig's mouth:
Quote:


> Just adding some numbers to Doyll's explanation: Since the mounting height of the fans are adjustable between 177mm total height to 168mm at the lowest. Subtracting the total height of the fan itself 140mm and the difference of the CPU face and DIMM prop up distance, you get a space of 177-140+(8-2) = 43mm for the tallest configuration and 34mm for the lowest. So RAM betwen 43mm~34mm will fit depending on your case.


----------



## Carmaine

Doyll

Is the Cryorig CP9 thermal paste any good?

I've been using Arctic MX-4, but I just ran out since I used the remaining on my GPU.

Where would you rank the CP9?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carmaine*
> 
> Doyll
> 
> Is the Cryorig CP9 thermal paste any good?
> 
> I've been using Arctic MX-4, but I just ran out since I used the remaining on my GPU.
> 
> Where would you rank the CP9?


CP9 is quite good.

How easy the TIM is to use is far more important, and CP9 is nice to work with. There is no reason to buy something else.

I've tested with CP9, PH-NDC, NT-H1, MX-4, CF3, and DC1 and find them all to perform very well.
Except for a few very hard to use TIMs like Coollaboratory Liquid Pro, the difference between top 20 is about 2c. Once we allow for variables involved in testing that difference is more like 1c. Things like barometric pressure, humidity, slight changes in temperature, how good the TIM print is, etc. can easily skew results by 2-3c.


----------



## dgershko

i have an i5 4690k and the r1 ultimate and i overclocked it to 4.5 ghz @1.3v
im getting temps around 100c in small fft test, but around 65-70 in some intel stress test. is this normal?
is there any chance i mounted the cooler wrong if im getting temps this high?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgershko*
> 
> i have an i5 4690k and the r1 ultimate and i overclocked it to 4.5 ghz @1.3v
> im getting temps around 100c in small fft test, but around 65-70 in some intel stress test. is this normal?
> is there any chance i mounted the cooler wrong if im getting temps this high?


I would suggest a remount to see what the TIM imprint looks like and to be sure, but there are many other possible causes. Room temperature and cooler intake air temp are critical to knowing how well cooler is performing. You might find the case cooling link in my sig helpful.


----------



## dgershko

but are temps like that normal? of do you think something might be wrong?


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgershko*
> 
> but are temps like that normal? of do you think something might be wrong?


Which version of Prime 95? IIRC version 28.5 does that to Haswell, a lot of people don't recommend to use prime with Haswell chips because of that. It's to do with a new instruction set in the chip

Now I think of it are you using adaptive/offset voltage to overclock? I believe what happens is the CPU adds .1v to the set Vcore in some stress test situations like Prime or IBT, *I think* if you use a fixed voltage and keep the speed step and the c-states enabled you can avoid the voltage 'boost' and still have it downclock at idle.

But hey I just recall this from reading threads around, hopefully I'm pointing you in the right direction.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1411077/haswell-overclocking-guide-with-statistics

Try that guide it will explain more then I can.

If I'm way off, apologies for the long lot of nowt







Try remounting









Edit I also have a feeling that 1.3 v on Haswell is pushing the limits on air to..


----------



## dgershko

thanks!
thats a very useful link


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgershko*
> 
> but are temps like that normal? of do you think something might be wrong?


They seem high but depends on how you were testing and what temps are.


----------



## dgershko

Been using the x264 now. Temps are very good, but the cpu only seems to be able to get to 4.6


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgershko*
> 
> Been using the x264 now. Temps are very good, but the cpu only seems to be able to get to 4.6


Going by the statistics on that guide I posted you have an average chip, not bad. My 3570k needs 1.32 volts to be stable at 4.4 ghz I can't get 4.5 to boot with less then 1.376 volts fixed in BIOS, and thats out of my personal voltage/temperature comfort zone.


----------



## dgershko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> Going by the statistics on that guide I posted you have an average chip, not bad. My 3570k needs 1.32 volts to be stable at 4.4 ghz I can't get 4.5 to boot with less then 1.376 volts fixed in BIOS, and thats out of my personal voltage/temperature comfort zone.


Huh. Guess I shouldn't be dissapointed by my results then.
Wish you better luck on your next CPU then,whatever that might be


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Cheers bud, you might well be able to tweak it a bit further yet, best of luck


----------



## Carmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> CP9 is quite good.
> 
> How easy the TIM is to use is far more important, and CP9 is nice to work with. There is no reason to buy something else.
> 
> I've tested with CP9, PH-NDC, NT-H1, MX-4, CF3, and DC1 and find them all to perform very well.
> Except for a few very hard to you TIMs like Coollaboratory Liquid Pro, the difference between top 20 is about 2c. Once we allow for variables involved in testing that difference is more like 1c. Things like barometric pressure, humidity, slight changes in temperature, how good the TIM print is, etc. can easily skew results by 2-3c.


Thanks Doyll!

I'll stay with the CP9 save myself $10 USD then. hahaha


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgershko*
> 
> i have an i5 4690k and the r1 ultimate and i overclocked it to 4.5 ghz @1.3v
> im getting temps around 100c in small fft test, but around 65-70 in some intel stress test. is this normal?
> is there any chance i mounted the cooler wrong if im getting temps this high?


That's a _*lot*_ of voltage for that clock speed on a 4690K. Are you sure the chip needs that much to get there? I have set up a number of 4690/4790K, and none of them needed more than 1.22V to hit 4.5GHz. Also, as a previous poster pointed out, using adaptive voltage can really skew things badly.


----------



## dgershko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That's a _*lot*_ of voltage for that clock speed on a 4690K. Are you sure the chip needs that much to get there? I have set up a number of 4690/4790K, and none of them needed more than 1.22V to hit 4.5GHz. Also, as a previous poster pointed out, using adaptive voltage can really skew things badly.


Stress testing [email protected] overnight,as 1.31 wasn't stable.I didn't find the adaptive voltage in the bios(MSI gaming 5),but Intel xtu shows it as disabled.
Getting temps around 77c with x246 stress test.


----------



## Sepesusi

Hi everyone, any idea where to purchase these in Europe (the R1 Universal in particular)? I just learned about Cryorig's coolers maybe 1 hour ago and now I'm really interested. I currently have the Corsair H100i, but the pump is way too loud for my taste. I can tweak my fan profiles all day long and my PC will never get past the noise the pump is making. It pretty much drives me crazy especially during quiet evenings. So, I'm now looking to get back into the world of air coolers and move away from the AIO coolers. I love the cooling the H100i provides and the looks, but the noise is too much. The R1 Universal looks great with its black and white theme and seems to be a pretty good cooler. I just didn't find it any of the stores I've used to buy PC components in Europe and ordering from North America is way too expensive.

EDIT: Ok, I think I found it now on alternate.de, have to see about their tax and shipping policies.

EDIT2: Made an order and have no clue about the final cost. Hopefully it won't be too astronomical..


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Can't seem to find a solid answer on this...

- Does the cryorig r1 ultimate interfere with the first PCIe slot?

- How much of a benefit would I see out of switching from a Thermaltake Frio Advanced to the R1 Ultimate?

I want something a bit more powerful than my current solution but don't have the cash to upgrade to full on watercooling just yet.


----------



## Carmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Can't seem to find a solid answer on this...
> 
> - Does the cryorig r1 ultimate interfere with the first PCIe slot?


Your mobo (which I assume from your sig is the Gigabyte Z87X-OC) isn't on their list of compatible products as per Cryorigs website. So there's definitely a chance that it might interfere and won't fit.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> - How much of a benefit would I see out of switching from a Thermaltake Frio Advanced to the R1 Ultimate?


Meh......maybe not much.

I'll be posting my disappointing Cryorig results compared to my 6 year old TRUE in a bit and you'll see.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carmaine*
> 
> Your mobo (which I assume from your sig is the Gigabyte Z87X-OC) isn't on their list of compatible products as per Cryorigs website. So there's definitely a chance that it might interfere and won't fit.
> Meh......maybe not much.
> 
> I'll be posting my disappointing Cryorig results compared to my 6 year old TRUE in a bit and you'll see.


Yes indeed my motherboard is still the Z87X-OC. I need to update another thing or two in that sig rig, but none of the core parts have changed (just settings they're running at). Kind of hoping it doesn't interfere, but I have this nagging suspicion it might.... I'm going to guess yes because pretty much EVERY GIgabyte listed on their compatability list for Z87 models has either a blank spot or a PCIe 1x slot as the first one. Even more annoying is that only one slot on my motherboard offers PCIe x16 - I would have to move my card down a few slots and it would be running at x8.

....Kinda sucks that it looks like it won't fit on my current motherboard, since it's such a lovely looking cooler plus outperforms the Phantek offering by a few degrees in most reviews.

Yeah, definitely looks like it won't do on my current motherboard: http://www.technic3d.com/review/kuehler/1688-cryorig-r1-ultimate/2.htm Surprising that they don't mention the loss of the first PCIe slot as a con/negative...

As for the Frio Advanced, I only purchased it because I had the opportunity to pick it up for $30 CAD and it was a massive improvement over the stock Intel HS/F. I would much rather get my paws on something that can actually handle my processor running at 4.6GHz and [email protected] running on more than four threads (Frio Advanced hits 78-80C folding on four threads for a cpu unit, plus one more thread for the GPU folding). I would much rather run a nice looking tower cooler that also performs better ^_^;;;;


----------



## Carmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Yes indeed my motherboard is still the Z87X-OC. I need to update another thing or two in that sig rig, but none of the core parts have changed (just settings they're running at). Kind of hoping it doesn't interfere, but I have this nagging suspicion it might.... I'm going to guess yes because pretty much EVERY GIgabyte listed on their compatability list for Z87 models has either a blank spot or a PCIe 1x slot as the first one. Even more annoying is that only one slot on my motherboard offers PCIe x16 - I would have to move my card down a few slots and it would be running at x8.
> 
> ....Kinda sucks that it looks like it won't fit on my current motherboard, since it's such a lovely looking cooler plus outperforms the Phantek offering by a few degrees in most reviews.
> 
> Yeah, definitely looks like it won't do on my current motherboard: http://www.technic3d.com/review/kuehler/1688-cryorig-r1-ultimate/2.htm Surprising that they don't mention the loss of the first PCIe slot as a con/negative...
> 
> As for the Frio Advanced, I only purchased it because I had the opportunity to pick it up for $30 CAD and it was a massive improvement over the stock Intel HS/F. I would much rather get my paws on something that can actually handle my processor running at 4.6GHz and [email protected] running on more than four threads (Frio Advanced hits 78-80C folding on four threads for a cpu unit, plus one more thread for the GPU folding). I would much rather run a nice looking tower cooler that also performs better ^_^;;;;


Wait, I think it will fit. Take a look.

This guy built a titan SLI with the Phantek PH-TC14PE's using your board (or something VERY similar).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1kSh8gN7lU

Now given the dimensions below. (WITH Dual Fans) (LxWxH)
Cryorig: 142.4 mm x 140 mm x 168.3 mm
Phantek: 159 mm x 140 mm x 171 mm

It looks like the R1's WILL fit the board and shouldn't interfere with your 1st PCIE slot!


----------



## Carmaine

See my results below for the R1 Ultimate.

FYI: I only did a 15 hour thermal burn-in (cycled-on for an hour and off for 30 minutes in between with prime95 running when turned on). So I'm not sure if the results are skewed in this way.

Also, I re-added and re-seated the R1 3 times because of such temps. This is the best so far.

*TRUE*


*CRYORIG R1*


----------



## Nopileus

It's because of the different Prime versions i'd say, 28.5 is known to create a lot more heat.
Enough for Asus and others encouraging people not to use Prime at all for Haswell-e (or use 27.9).

The 26.6 version you used doesn't even seem to use AVX, while newer ones do.

Try the R1 with the Prime version you used on the TRUE and see what happens.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Can't seem to find a solid answer on this...
> 
> - Does the cryorig r1 ultimate interfere with the first PCIe slot?
> 
> - How much of a benefit would I see out of switching from a Thermaltake Frio Advanced to the R1 Ultimate?
> 
> I want something a bit more powerful than my current solution but don't have the cash to upgrade to full on watercooling just yet.


Quick scaling of Z87X-OC give 73mm from center of CPU to edge of PCIe socket and 53mm for RAM socket.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







R1 Ultimate and Universal are 70mm center CPU toward PCIe socket.
R1 Ultimate is 65mm center CPU to front of fan, R1 Universal is 48.5mm


I would think at least 5c better cooling and half the noise. Many reviews show Frio being much hotter than NH-D14 or PH-TC14PE, and Cryorig R1 Ultimate is arguably the best cooler out right now .. with NH-D15, PH-TC14PE, Silver Arrow IB-E, etc. hot on it's heels. We are talking 0c to 3c difference .. and that can easily be the variables in testing. +/-1.5c is easily the difference between one mounting and another. The only reviewer I know who tests all coolers in each review (beside myself) is George Cella .. and he show R1 Ultimate as best with PH-TC14PE and NH-D15 1-2c warmer.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carmaine*
> 
> See my results below for the R1 Ultimate.
> 
> FYI: I only did a 15 hour thermal burn-in (cycled-on for an hour and off for 30 minutes in between with prime95 running when turned on). So I'm not sure if the results are skewed in this way.
> 
> Also, I re-added and re-seated the R1 3 times because of such temps. This is the best so far.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *TRUE*
> 
> 
> *CRYORIG R1*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nopileus*
> 
> It's because of the different Prime versions i'd say, 28.5 is known to create a lot more heat.
> Enough for Asus and others encouraging people not to use Prime at all for Haswell-e (or use 27.9).
> 
> The 26.6 version you used doesn't even seem to use AVX, while newer ones do.
> 
> Try the R1 with the Prime version you used on the TRUE and see what happens.


What Nopileus said. Ultra 120 Extreme is a great cooler, but no match for R1.

Only other possibility is the temp of air going into cooler. It is possible the R1 changed case airflow and now is ingesting much warmer air than Ultra was .. but it's no likely to be 9c warmer. Link in sig to case cooling show what I use to monitor cooler intake air temp.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quick scaling of Z87X-OC give 73mm from center of CPU to edge of PCIe socket and 53mm for RAM socket.
> 
> R1 Ultimate and Universal are 70mm center CPU toward PCIe socket.
> R1 Ultimate is 65mm center CPU to front of fan, R1 Universal is 48.5mm
> 
> I would think at least 5c better cooling and half the noise. Many reviews show Frio being much hotter than NH-D14 or PH-TC14PE, and Cryorig R1 Ultimate is arguably the best cooler out right now .. with NH-D15, PH-TC14PE, Silver Arrow IB-E, etc. hot on it's heels. We are talking 0c to 3c difference .. and that can easily be the variables in testing. +/-1.5c is easily the difference between one mounting and another. The only reviewer I know who tests all coolers in each review (beside myself) is George Cella .. and he show R1 Ultimate as best with PH-TC14PE and NH-D15 1-2c warmer.


So basically on clearances if I get yhe backplate for my card (which I plan to) I'll more than likely run into clearance issues. 3mm is cutting it pretty close imo.

As for performance, a review I found last night (can't link to it since I'm on mobile) pegs the r1 ultimate as being about 6C cooler on when loaded in comparison to the frio advanced. It sures a -lot- better though. The noise my current cooler makes isn't an issue to me, but the additional cooling and aesthetics sure catch my attentiom.

That 3mm of clearance does make me nervous though.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> So basically on clearances if I get yhe backplate for my card (which I plan to) I'll more than likely run into clearance issues. 3mm is cutting it pretty close imo.
> 
> As for performance, a review I found last night (can't link to it since I'm on mobile) pegs the r1 ultimate as being about 6C cooler on when loaded in comparison to the frio advanced. It sures a -lot- better though. The noise my current cooler makes isn't an issue to me, but the additional cooling and aesthetics sure catch my attentiom.
> 
> That 3mm of clearance does make me nervous though.


Those measurements are to the edge of socket housing, not the slot graphics card goes into. The slot is 3mm farther away. The socket is about 8mm wide with a 1.5-2mm slot for graphics card. Center of CPU to back of graphics PCB is abut 77mm.

If you are worried about the clearance the Silver Arrow IB-E would work.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Those measurements are to the edge of socket housing, not the slot graphics card goes into. The slot is 3mm farther away. The socket is about 8mm wide with a 1.5-2mm slot for graphics card. Center of CPU to back of graphics PCB is abut 77mm.
> 
> If you are worried about the clearance the Silver Arrow IB-E would work.


Hmm... so even with a backplate there could still be a few millimeters of clearance. So long as it isn't touching







Just odd that they have sooo many gigabyte motherboards on the list buy no mention of one of gigabyte's most popular z87 boards.

Wow that silver arrow ib-e is horrid looking 

I might look into picking up an r1 ultimate soonish then. Seems to be a freat cooler, plus it looks amazing. Also, that 6C difference in some reviews over my current cooler. Wonder what kind of difference I would see with folding...


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Hmm... so even with a backplate there could still be a few millimeters of clearance. So long as it isn't touching
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just odd that they have sooo many gigabyte motherboards on the list buy no mention of one of gigabyte's most popular z87 boards.
> 
> Wow that silver arrow ib-e is horrid looking
> 
> I might look into picking up an r1 ultimate soonish then. Seems to be a freat cooler, plus it looks amazing. Also, that 6C difference in some reviews over my current cooler. Wonder what kind of difference I would see with folding...


Hard to say what difference the R1 is going to make to you in Folding, I can tell you that in my case it kept everything nice and cool almost always under 70c in the summer here when it was over 30c indoors with the GPU about the same. I have a Fractal Arc Midi with the side window so the lack of a side fan means some of the heat gets shared unfortunately.

I've wound back my OC since then as it chucked some WHEA errors at me and I want to try and make this chip last until Skylake. At the lower voltage and CPU fan set to silent profile in BIOS it sits in the low 60's Folding most of the time with the GPU 60-70c depending on the unit. If The GPU finishes a unit and idles the CPU folds around 50c average









If it helps at all if I run IBT max RAM on my current setting I get 68-74 c on all cores after 10 runs, which is 20c more then I see when my CPU alone is Folding 100% but that's with the CPU silent fan setting on (maxes out at 75c 100% I believe with this mobo)

Obviously your chip and whole set up is completely different to mine, there's too many variables, but I can say that basically it works good for me it should for you, if that's any help at all


----------



## doyll

Folding works system pretty hard.







Much of cooling is what the air temp going into cooler is .. And I know of only one tester who actually monitors the cooler intake air temp. They all use room ambient .. and even on a bench the temp of air going into cooler is not the same as the room temp. Testing in a case is even farther off. The cooler intake air temp in a case to room temp is like comparing your room temp to the temperature elsewhere in the house .. or even temperature outside.

you could make yourself a R1 Ultimate and R1 Universal footprint and see how it fits on your motherboard.


----------



## Shneiky

So, another owner of the R1 Ultimate. Since I saw Cryorig was throwing replies over here (and I hope they still keep an eye on the thread) I decided to post some great and some not so great points about the R1 Ultimate. I do tons of rendering, so a quiet computer with an OC CPU is a must and top priority.

Side info:
2700K on an ASrock Z77 E6, in a HAF 912+ with 5 be quiet! case fans. 4GHz at 1.1v (for now). R1 Ultimate in standard front-to-back orientation.

As a general experience - I am pretty happy. Waited for the cooler for 17 days to arrive, but it finally did and I installed it yesterday. The packaging is done very nicely with nice additions to it. Although when I saw the reviews on the web, they were showing white and red vibrations dampers packed, which were not included (really wanted the red ones







). The alcohol pad was a very nice addition. The 2 sets of extra brackets are very welcome, specially is something snaps one day. Packaging is top notch.

The mounting is amazingly easy. Best mounting system I ever experienced for the past 10 years. Took the motherboard out, put the backplate in (HAF 912's backplate cutout was a bit too narrow and shifted to the wrong end), got the motherboard back in the case, some thermal paste, and screw the heatsink. The idea of spring loaded screws with a stopper is a blessing. Turn the screws till you feel it stops - and that is the perfect pressure. No more experimenting with how many rotations the screws need, or danger of over-tightening. Just brilliant. The heatsink and the mounting are top notch.

Now the bad part - the fans. First, the cables are ever so slightly short. Since I got fans on the top, I need to route the cables behind the motherboard tray so they don't get in the way. And that is what I did ... after half an hour of struggle. The cable from the fan sandwitched between the two towers just barely reaches the Y splitter. It's so tight that it touches the Z77 heatsink. But after the cable struggle - I managed. Time to turn the system on. And the fans are blowing like crazy.

Went into the BIOS and my CPU fan setting was still 1 (1 being the lowest possible) and the fans were going 1100 RPM. With the same setting, my 212 Evo was going at about 650 RPM and my exhaust be quiet! SilentWing2 hovers around 700 RPM. Or any of the 4 coolers I plugged. And 1100 RPM is too loud. Any fan that is 800-900 rpm is too loud for me. So, conveniently, the ASRock Z77 E6 has Custom fan speed which ranges from 1 to 255. Setting the Custom Fan Speed to 1, got the R1 Ultimate at bay and at 700 RPM, but a new problem came out - the SilentWing2 was not spinning. It would not spin for any Custom fan speed lesser than 100 (which send the R1 to 1000 RMP). And the SW2's cable does not reach any free fanheader except CPU FAN2. So the solution - grab my 2 Shadow Wings intakes which I connect directly to the PSU with 7V reducing cables and maneuver around the R1 Ultimate to swap them with the top and rear SilentWing2. Thank god for be quiet!s rubber and push pin mounting. Still, all that battle tactics cost an hour.

Now, everything is set up and running, until I heard a clicking sound which repeats 11-12 times a second. After I stopped all the possible fans I discovered it was coming from the sandwiched fan from the R1 Ultimate. The clicking sounds exactly like a fan bearing. Guess I was just unlucky with that particular fans. It comes and goes. Also, the R1 fans do push an impressive amount of air, but the 700 RPM minimum is a bit on the loud side. The be quiet! fans are half as intrusive, but then again, they push out a bit less air. Maybe if the XF140s idled at 600 RMP....

Anyway, results are good. Getting 49-50C in a 20C room at 4 GHz while remaining at lowest fan speed. Idle is in the 19-24C (yes, 1C under ambient...). Planning to push the chip to go as much as it can while remaining within 65-70 C at lowest fan speed or when it hits 1.25 vCore. Now waiting for a 4 pin male to 4 pin female to plug in between the motherboard and the Y-splitter, so the cable does not touch the motherboard VRM heatsink, before I do anything intensive.

The Good:
- Amazing performance
- Very solid build quality
- Best mounting system I have seen for the past 10 years
- Aesthetics (this cooler looks a lot better in real life, than on pictures, and goes very well with the Z77 E6)
- Price - got it for 64 EUR without the shipment
- Packaging

The Bad:
- Mediocre fans
- Fan cables could use another 5-10 centimeters
- Very weird PWM behavior
- Clicking sound from one of the fans
- The lowest fan speed could have been lower

Other toughs:
Even though all the little "unpleasantnesses" I am still very happy with this cooler. Will I recommend it to anybody - yes, I will definitely will, but with a slight warning about the little things. Before I was turning specifically to be quiet! and Thermalright for enthusiast CPU (the Noctua vs Phanteks war fancies me little) coolers and Cooler Master for budget offerings, but now Cryorig entered the list. My 2 new top choices are Cryorig and be quiet!. If anyone from Cryorig reads this - keep up the good work, you did manage to get up there with the big boys and leave them in the dust. And maybe take the fans for a bit of a look.


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So, another owner of the R1 Ultimate. Since I saw Cryorig was throwing replies over here (and I hope they still keep an eye on the thread) I decided to post some great and some not so great points about the R1 Ultimate. I do tons of rendering, so a quiet computer with an OC CPU is a must and top priority.
> 
> Side info:
> 2700K on an ASrock Z77 E6, in a HAF 912+ with 5 be quiet! case fans. 4GHz at 1.1v (for now). R1 Ultimate in standard front-to-back orientation.
> 
> As a general experience - I am pretty happy. Waited for the cooler for 17 days to arrive, but it finally did and I installed it yesterday. The packaging is done very nicely with nice additions to it. Although when I saw the reviews on the web, they were showing white and red vibrations dampers packed, which were not included (really wanted the red ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). The alcohol pad was a very nice addition. The 2 sets of extra brackets are very welcome, specially is something snaps one day. Packaging is top notch.
> 
> The mounting is amazingly easy. Best mounting system I ever experienced for the past 10 years. Took the motherboard out, put the backplate in (HAF 912's backplate cutout was a bit too narrow and shifted to the wrong end), got the motherboard back in the case, some thermal paste, and screw the heatsink. The idea of spring loaded screws with a stopper is a blessing. Turn the screws till you feel it stops - and that is the perfect pressure. No more experimenting with how many rotations the screws need, or danger of over-tightening. Just brilliant. The heatsink and the mounting are top notch.
> 
> Now the bad part - the fans. First, the cables are ever so slightly short. Since I got fans on the top, I need to route the cables behind the motherboard tray so they don't get in the way. And that is what I did ... after half an hour of struggle. The cable from the fan sandwitched between the two towers just barely reaches the Y splitter. It's so tight that it touches the Z77 heatsink. But after the cable struggle - I managed. Time to turn the system on. And the fans are blowing like crazy.
> 
> Went into the BIOS and my CPU fan setting was still 1 (1 being the lowest possible) and the fans were going 1100 RPM. With the same setting, my 212 Evo was going at about 650 RPM and my exhaust be quiet! SilentWing2 hovers around 700 RPM. Or any of the 4 coolers I plugged. And 1100 RPM is too loud. Any fan that is 800-900 rpm is too loud for me. So, conveniently, the ASRock Z77 E6 has Custom fan speed which ranges from 1 to 255. Setting the Custom Fan Speed to 1, got the R1 Ultimate at bay and at 700 RPM, but a new problem came out - the SilentWing2 was not spinning. It would not spin for any Custom fan speed lesser than 100 (which send the R1 to 1000 RMP). And the SW2's cable does not reach any free fanheader except CPU FAN2. So the solution - grab my 2 Shadow Wings intakes which I connect directly to the PSU with 7V reducing cables and maneuver around the R1 Ultimate to swap them with the top and rear SilentWing2. Thank god for be quiet!s rubber and push pin mounting. Still, all that battle tactics cost an hour.
> 
> Now, everything is set up and running, until I heard a clicking sound which repeats 11-12 times a second. After I stopped all the possible fans I discovered it was coming from the sandwiched fan from the R1 Ultimate. The clicking sounds exactly like a fan bearing. Guess I was just unlucky with that particular fans. It comes and goes. Also, the R1 fans do push an impressive amount of air, but the 700 RPM minimum is a bit on the loud side. The be quiet! fans are half as intrusive, but then again, they push out a bit less air. Maybe if the XF140s idled at 600 RMP....
> 
> Anyway, results are good. Getting 49-50C in a 20C room at 4 GHz while remaining at lowest fan speed. Idle is in the 19-24C (yes, 1C under ambient...). Planning to push the chip to go as much as it can while remaining within 65-70 C at lowest fan speed or when it hits 1.25 vCore. Now waiting for a 4 pin male to 4 pin female to plug in between the motherboard and the Y-splitter, so the cable does not touch the motherboard VRM heatsink, before I do anything intensive.
> 
> 
> The Good:
> - Amazing performance
> - Very solid build quality
> - Best mounting system I have seen for the past 10 years
> - Aesthetics (this cooler looks a lot better in real life, than on pictures, and goes very well with the Z77 E6)
> - Price - got it for 64 EUR without the shipment
> - Packaging
> 
> The Bad:
> - Mediocre fans
> - Fan cables could use another 5-10 centimeters
> - Very weird PWM behavior
> - Clicking sound from one of the fans
> - The lowest fan speed could have been lower
> 
> Other toughs:
> Even though all the little "unpleasantnesses" I am still very happy with this cooler. Will I recommend it to anybody - yes, I will definitely will, but with a slight warning about the little things. Before I was turning specifically to be quiet! and Thermalright for enthusiast CPU (the Noctua vs Phanteks war fancies me little) coolers and Cooler Master for budget offerings, but now Cryorig entered the list. My 2 new top choices are Cryorig and be quiet!. If anyone from Cryorig reads this - keep up the good work, you did manage to get up there with the big boys and leave them in the dust. And maybe take the fans for a bit of a look.


Thank you for your impressions









Although regarding the fan cable and the fan noise, isn't that subjective? I personally find those cable too long in my system. While I can barely hear the fans running at max RPM, specially I am currently using the system on a test bench, nothing is blocking the fans. I can only hear the motor noise when I put my ear close to the heatsink. I may be reading your post wrong though when you say about the fans "blowing like crazy."

And about the rattling fan, have you tried powering it when it is not mounted on the heatsink? I had a similar issue as well before and it turns out that the shroud is causing that rattling noise because it is not present when I removed the fan outside the heatsink, and power it up as it is. After I reseat the fan back, the rattling noise was gone.

I could be wrong here and I need to double check, but I think both of my XF140 and XT140 runs around 700rpm during idle. It could possibly be something with your settings or how the fans are connected to each other.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> Hard to say what difference the R1 is going to make to you in Folding, I can tell you that in my case it kept everything nice and cool almost always under 70c in the summer here when it was over 30c indoors with the GPU about the same. I have a Fractal Arc Midi with the side window so the lack of a side fan means some of the heat gets shared unfortunately.
> 
> I've wound back my OC since then as it chucked some WHEA errors at me and I want to try and make this chip last until Skylake. At the lower voltage and CPU fan set to silent profile in BIOS it sits in the low 60's Folding most of the time with the GPU 60-70c depending on the unit. If The GPU finishes a unit and idles the CPU folds around 50c average
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it helps at all if I run IBT max RAM on my current setting I get 68-74 c on all cores after 10 runs, which is 20c more then I see when my CPU alone is Folding 100% but that's with the CPU silent fan setting on (maxes out at 75c 100% I believe with this mobo)
> 
> Obviously your chip and whole set up is completely different to mine, there's too many variables, but I can say that basically it works good for me it should for you, if that's any help at all


I think the biggest reason I state folding is because of how much it can stress a processor ^_^ But significantly improvements when folding would be nice - even more so if it would allow me to fold on six threads alongside my GPU but still remain fairly cool. Such would also probably help my XTU scores too









Seeing that my current heatsink/fan combination hits upwards of 80C when folding on four threads, there is a chance I didn't mount it correctly (too much or not enough thermal paste, didn't tighten it down far enough), or maybe it just can't handle that particular kind of demand I'm placing upon it - ambients in my living room rarely go lower than 25C, especially now that the new windows are installed (old ones leaked a fair bit of cold air into the place... It's 0C outside atm, and with windows closed the heater hasn't even kicked in, it's literally JUST the computers in the place keeping it toasty-ish). It does run perfectly fine when gaming (no higher than 55C for most of the games I've played lately).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Folding works system pretty hard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much of cooling is what the air temp going into cooler is .. And I know of only one tester who actually monitors the cooler intake air temp. They all use room ambient .. and even on a bench the temp of air going into cooler is not the same as the room temp. Testing in a case is even farther off. The cooler intake air temp in a case to room temp is like comparing your room temp to the temperature elsewhere in the house .. or even temperature outside.
> 
> you could make yourself a R1 Ultimate and R1 Universal footprint and see how it fits on your motherboard.


Oh yeah, Folding works things rather hard, especially CPU's. In a way, that kind of sucks, because even running on all eight threads in Windows you're unlikely to reach 40k PPD (which, in comparison to my GPUs, a 780 Classified at 1254core easily puts out 200-213k PPD depending on the WU)

I think the biggest reason I want one of the nicer tower coolers (especially the dual towers with two or three fans) is that I don't just want it to look good, I want it to be able to perform fairly well and deal with ambient temps being 25-27C pretty much constantly. I wouldn't doubt it if my case temps are a tad higher, although ever since I started pushing for better scores on HWBot I haven't put the side panel of my Phantom 820 back on.

As for the footprint, I would consider it, but first of all I have no printer, secondly no metric ruler, and third... I don't exactly want to take the current rig apart just yet *shifty eyes*

It is good to know that theoretically it ~should~ fit.


----------



## Shneiky

@Dayems,

The cable length will be an issue for anyone trying to cable manage like me. Any mATX or ATX board size mounted in an ATX case. Basically take the fan cables, put them back behind the motherboard tray and to the left, then get them out of the hole for the 24 pin motherboard connector and to the right to CPU FAN HEADER 1. The reason why I can't let the cable hang in there without passing it around is that I have 2 top fans and I don't want the cable to get in the way.

The noise might be subjective, but I am not the only one. Since the computer is in the living room, my girlfriend also felt the increased noise even at 700 RPM. The computer is on the table, 50 cm away from me. Also, 1000 or 1100 RPM is very very far from silent. You can hear the air flowing. Also the ambient noise around me in the evening is a lot less than that of what people usually experience. I live in a car-free zone so there is almost nothing happening outside in the evening (expect for the weekends).

As far as it goes to the motherboard setting for RPM - on the Z77 E6 you have 10 speeds. Speed 10 is maximum RPM or 12V, while speed 1 is the RPM that should be at 5V or lowest RPM. The R1 blows at 1100 RPM at speed 1. The only way is to use a custom speed (from 1 to 255) and set it to 1 to get the fans to 700 RMP. The problem is that the fan on CPU FAN HEADER 2 uses the same settings, and then the V is too little for any other fan to spin. I have plugged numerous fans from numerous manufacturers in those slots on many other motherboards and on this specific board (CM, be quiet!, Thermalright specifically), and this is the very first time in my life I experience this. The fans are connected exactly as Cryorig shows in the manual and using the Cryorig Y-Splitter and the Y-splitter is directly connected to the motherboard CPU Fan Header 1.

The above mentioned noise at 700 RMP and up is sound from the air moving and not the bearing. The rattling noise from the bearing of the 2nd fan was fixed. Few drops of sewing machine oil fixed the issue. The clicking sound is gone. Else, I was hoping the fans would have been quieter at 700 RPM. Or maybe go to 600 RPM at the lowest V.

Thank you for your reply.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I think the biggest reason I state folding is because of how much it can stress a processor ^_^ But significantly improvements when folding would be nice - even more so if it would allow me to fold on six threads alongside my GPU but still remain fairly cool. Such would also probably help my XTU scores too


I know that Folding stresses the CPU a lot more then normal for extended periods of course







, ideally I'd like to be getting a new mobo when DDR4 becomes mainstream thats why I'm hoping to last until then, if it doesnt then







meh.

I do find it strange though that your folding temps are on levels that I only get when stress testing and your gaming temps are almost the same as mine







. Maybe its something with Haswell and [email protected]? I also fold 100% on CPU on all 4 threads and GPU and I'm maxing out at around 15C lower then IBT (same ambient temp) at the moment and thats with the added heat from the Graphics card.

Anyway sorry people for being







in this thread I'm pretty sure the R1 is going to help your temps whatever happens


----------



## doyll

@ Shneiky

If the 31cm leads on Cryorig fans is not long enough you are in real trouble because many cooler fans come with shorter leads:
Noctua leads are 21cm,
be quiet! are 26cm
Thermalright are 31cm.


----------



## ChampN252

Hey guys. I'm really interested in this cooler. So I'm using corsair vengeance ram. It looks like if I use the universal, the heatsink misses the ram all together correct?


----------



## aerial

Got my R1, pics first:

















Height: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l4JnPDdP75E/VE_j3FfPZSI/AAAAAAAAB3M/BLSkpstV_54/s912/cry_1020b_23.jpg
It barely fits my case, as the glass window I have, is quite thick. I'll post pics of the case later, since I ran out of sunlight, and couldn't take decent pics.

Performance vs macho 140:
i7 2700k 4.8 @ 1.275V 15min linx, ambient 22C, paste zalman STG2. No fans in the case, except msi750ti gaming cooler. Passive psu.
Themalright Macho 140 @ 700RPM: 67C
Cryorig R1 Ultimate @ 740RPM: 64C

Pretty sure difference is bigger if you put higher voltage, and increase RPM of fans. Macho is really good cooler when it comes to low rpm setup.

Impressions:

1. Great build quality
2. Great looks
3. Good mounting system and accessories
4. Performance
5. Slightly hard to remove/replace fans
6. Too loud fans if you aim for very quiet setup

I have similar thoughts as few of my predecessors. Everything is great, except the fans. With my mobo PWM control I can only get it to 740ish rpm, and it is WAY louder than TY140mm fan I used with my macho.. Sure 1 fan vs 2, but these cryorig fans are definitely louder. I will try to slow them down more, or replace them altogether. I have not built this system to hear it


----------



## Shneiky

@aerial,

So I guess I am not the only one with that impression of the fans. Too bad be quiet! Silent Wing2 135 mm with 120 mm holes are coming only with their Dark Rock Pro 3s. Would have been a swap I would have considered.

@ doyll,
While true about the fan leads being that long, the Y splitter of the R1 is a tad short compared to other ones I have gotten my hands on. I do not know about the fan leads of Noctua, but the be quiet!'s I have were slightly longer than the Cryorig ones.


----------



## aerial

Well, mounting fans on a cooler is really not that hard, You can always use cable ties.. And I mean, not any ghetto modding, but you can literally put them through fins, and lock on fan mounting holes, the way you can't even see cable ties were used. I used to do it with megahalems cooler, since it looked way better than stock mounting system (oversized wires).
So I imagine replacing those fans with pretty much anything isn't an issue, if you are willing to use zip ties to install them.

As for the stock fans, I'm afraid not much can be done, as if you look at this test:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SomgB-9S9Kw

Even voltage regulated, they start at 700+RPM.
Maybe with fan controller that puts 12V at start and then lowers the speed, it is possible to get below that starting point. Most fan controller panels have such feature.


----------



## doyll

The first time I had ot use a needle nose piles to get the fan clips off of fin pack. It was an "engineering sample" so I assumed the lowered the tension on them before it was released.

@ Aerial,
You can use TY-140 series fans with the Cryorig XF140 fan clips.


----------



## Shneiky

While I do agree that changing the fans is no biggie, the fans on the R1 are 140mm with 120mm mounting holes if I am not mistaken. The R1 Ultimate (and I guess the R1 Universal) is around 130mm wide and 120m tall (the fin profile at the front). So either get new 140mm with 120 mm mounting holes or 2x120mm fans which is going to be a downgrade performance/noise wise. Thermalright fans are most likely best suited, but I am not a big fan of their color schemes (yes, I am that shallow). But, getting 2 x TY-141 is going to be 33 EUR and that is half the price of the R1. I got the R1 for 66 EUR (with shipment) and the price swayed me pretty much towards it. Else, I would have just gone with a Silver Arrow IB-E for 75 EUR or most likely with Dark Rock Pro 3 for 80. But hey, I am from the R1 club now. Guess I have to get used to the noise. Or untill be quiet! releases their 135mm with 120mm mounting holes DarkWing2s that they give only with their Dark Rock Pro3s... If that ever happens.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> While I do agree that changing the fans is no biggie, the fans on the R1 are 140mm with 120mm mounting holes if I am not mistaken. The R1 Ultimate (and I guess the R1 Universal) is around 130mm wide and 120m tall (the fin profile at the front). So either get new 140mm with 120 mm mounting holes or 2x120mm fans which is going to be a downgrade performance/noise wise. Thermalright fans are most likely best suited, but I am not a big fan of their color schemes (yes, I am that shallow). But, getting 2 x TY-141 is going to be 33 EUR and that is half the price of the R1. I got the R1 for 66 EUR (with shipment) and the price swayed me pretty much towards it. Else, I would have just gone with a Silver Arrow IB-E for 75 EUR or most likely with Dark Rock Pro 3 for 80. But hey, I am from the R1 club now. Guess I have to get used to the noise. Or untill be quiet! releases their 135mm with 120mm mounting holes DarkWing2s that they give only with their Dark Rock Pro3s... If that ever happens.


Here in UK Scan sells the TY-147 (black housing & white fan) for £6.59. Maybe try Amazon in your country?


----------



## Shneiky

Unfortunately I am currently in NL, so there is no Amazon. And also I can get the 2xTY-147 for 21 EUR but they start off at 900 RPM, which even though they are 2 db rated less than the R1 fans, I doubt they will be perceivably quieter, though they tend to have lower pitched noise, which I can get along with easier. All in all, I do not think it is money well spend. PH-F140HP would make a lot of sense, but they are not easily available in NL, so they have to be shipped for double the price (even though Phanteks is a Dutch company, I believe). Noctua NF-P14r redux are a good choice, looking at how they can go down to 450 RMP, but those guys are 25 EUR per piece and no way I am paying 50 EUR for 2 fans. Also the "rebel" in me is shivering just by the thought of buying a Noctua product. Up until this day I still stand firm behind my hardheaded resolution that there are always better options than Noctua for less of a price. Guess I am just more pretentious then a princess...


----------



## doyll

LOL
On my systems the TY series fans will idle down to less than 650rpm no problem. Even my TY-143's will idle that low.

I just tried my XF140 and it's idling at 700rpm in open airflow.

My NF-A15 1500rpm fans idle down to 500rpm


----------



## Steve-S

Hi Shneiky

The clicking of the fans could be like what Dyaems mentioned, a remount has done the trick for many. We have hand checked over one hundred R1 units to see if there were any assembly issues with the R1, but could not find anything coherent yet. But many users have reported that after remounting the noise has went away. If the noise is still there, you can contact [email protected] we'll do our best to sort things out.

The BIOS settings and fan speeds issue, is more of a mixed bag though. On the Asus board's we have on hand at the moment, setting the fan profile to "Silent" (other options are Turbo, Standard and Manual) the RPM is also stuck at 1,000 rpm which is closer to around 50% on our PWM spectrum table. On our Asus board we did have the option to manually set the fan speed to 20% through PWM control @ around 700~800rpm. So it's part fault of our profile setting, and part BIOS settings (Silent= 50% on Idle)

We'll be looking into fine tuning the RPM's profiles of future fans to let them better match BIOS profiles.

BR
Steve


----------



## aerial

If I may suggest something. Make sure the fans in your cooler, can be slowed down to really inaudiable levels, even at cost of performance. It really is important to have that option. There are benchmarks, there are users who keep their cpus at really high voltage, and need the premium performance. But I can assure you, that vast majority wants quiet cooler instead, and slowing it down. Even after oc, cpu these days have dynamic voltage and clock, so in idle, they can be cooled quietly by very small heatsink, with very quiet fan.
It is really disappointing to have this "top dog" cooler, that might be the best performer out there, but in regular use/idle it has audiable fans and there is nothing you can do about it, because it is already their minimal operating speed. And I'm not talking about any clicking noises that can be fixed by remounting fans, but just the "woosh" sound of fans.

These days lower tdp graphic cards are hitting the market, many with passive idle mode. That makes you hear the cpu cooler in idle very clearly, because it no longer blends in gpu cooler noise.


----------



## doyll

Thanks Steve.









Always nice to see your great customer support in action.









@ Aerial,
When I first saw the passive idle mode on PSUs I though it would be to niice to have the same on CPU fan curve.

Think I'll ask some techie mates if there is something they could make something to plug in between motherboard and fan at stops power at idle.


----------



## Nopileus

Interesting, somehow my Asus board with fan expert idles the fans at around 500rpm and lists ~450rpm as the startup rpm value.
I didn't even edit the curves, just ran through the automatic setup.

This might just be fan expert being smarter than most bios level fan control but i'm pretty happy with those fans as well as the cooler.


----------



## doyll

The PWM signal curve is not the same on all fans or motherboards.
Some do allow lower idle speeds .. and higher maximum speeds too.

I ran each fan for 15 minutes before checking RPM.
NF-A15 1500rpm is 200rpm
XF140 on same signal 680rpm
New TY-140 spins at 650rpm
New TY-143 spins at 600rpm
New TY-147 spins at 450rpm

One of these days I need to run tests and log all this data into a spreadsheet.


----------



## aerial

I'll update with few more pics, this time of my whole setup:







After little fan swap:


----------



## doyll

Looks very nice.


----------



## Shneiky

Hi Steve,

Thank you for taking the time to read my post. I guess I do experience the same problem as you mentioned.

I do not know if you tested any ASRock boards or Z77 or P67 in particular. I tied it on Z77 E6 and P67 Pro3 and I achieve the same results between both boards. On the Z77 E6, by using Fan Speed 1 I also get stuck at 50% of the PWM spectrum. On Asrock boards those presets range from 1 to 10 where 1 is the lowest and 10 is 100% of the PWM range. Since I have also plugged 3 pin fans on the CPU FAN HEADER 2 while having the R1 on the 4 pin CPU FAN HEADER 1, I reached the conclusion by observing fan speeds that Speed 1 is 5V for non PWM fans, Speed 5 is 7V and Speed 10 is 12Vs. Though the workaround with the R1 fans was to use a "Custom" speed which ranged from 1 to 255 (it is some kind of a binary instruction after all). By using 1 out of 255 I achieved 690-710 RPM. By setting 128 - I got to 1100ish RPM. And as you would expect - 255 is the full 1300 RPM. Though the 3 pin fan would not start up until 100ish which sent the R1 fans at 1000 RPM. I am not particularly aware of the BIOS differences between ASRock and ASUS, but I guess both have work arounds.

As it goes to the ticking noise in the 2nd fan of my R1, the sound continued even when unmounted and running while I hold it. But no biggie - few drops of sewing machine oil fixed it. Not a big issue by any extend, but I am a silence freak.

Overall I am happy with my purchase and the pluses considerably outweigh the tiny unpleasantries. I would still recommend the Cryorig R1 series to any of my performance freak friends. But for the silence freaks, I would still turn to be quiet!, Thermalright or other silent solutions. Thank you for keeping an eye on customer impressions and keep up the good work.


----------



## Shneiky

@doyll,

Than you for the detailed information. I just read that the TY-147 starts off at 900 RPM. Or at least that is what Thermalright's website states. Thank you for doing such a detailed test for us.


----------



## Treeman574

Hi, I've just put together my x99 system with the R1 Universal and a corsair 450D case. Even though there is only 165mm of clearance to the side panel window, I can confirm that the cooler fits with no issues. It is very very close, but not touching and there are no vibration or noise issues. Will upload some pics soon.


----------



## doyll

Thanks Treeman.


----------



## Carmaine

*GET READY FOR A PHOTO DUMP*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nopileus*
> 
> It's because of the different Prime versions i'd say, 28.5 is known to create a lot more heat.
> Enough for Asus and others encouraging people not to use Prime at all for Haswell-e (or use 27.9).
> 
> The 26.6 version you used doesn't even seem to use AVX, while newer ones do.
> 
> Try the R1 with the Prime version you used on the TRUE and see what happens.


So obviously, I couldn't resist. I understand the voided warranty that comes with doing this, but as a member of an "overclock" forum, many like myself will sacrifice whatever is necessary to achieve higher and better results.

That being said...on to lapping the R1 Ultimate.

This is the setup and the BEFORE PICTURE of the R1 base


*After 400 GRIT*


*After 600 GRIT*


*After 800 GRIT*

*
After 1000 GRIT - Slowly seeing some mirror*


*After 1500 GRIT*


*After 2000 GRIT*


*After FINAL 2500 GRIT*


*3rd FAN installed*


Now lets see if this made any difference!

*NO LAP - BEFORE* (Prime 28.5)
*MAX TEMPS*: 77:84:86:81


*LAPPED - AFTER* (Prime 28.5)
*MAX TEMPS*: 71:77:79:75


*A difference of around 6-7C after lapping!!*

NOW, as per Nopileus, I tried and compared version Prime 26.6 with my old lapped TRUE and the R1.

*TRUE - Lapped*
*MAX TEMPS*: 72: 79: 80: 78


*R1 Ultimate - LAPPED*
*MAX TEMPS*: 68: 73: 74: 72


The R1 now performs around 4-6C cooler!!


----------



## doyll

OOHHH !! Cooler porn.








That's a big difference.

I assume you were running the same 3 fan setup at same fan speed.


----------



## Nopileus




----------



## Carmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I assume you were running the same 3 fan setup at same fan speed.


Yeap!!


----------



## Lucky 23

Wow dropped 7c. Very Nice


----------



## Shneiky

@Carmaine,

I guess you had the same feeling as me - the R1 finish is a bit rugged, On my R1 I can see and feel the texture of the finish. Guess I should give it a very short 400-1000-2000 lap session to get it smooth. You achieved nice results.


----------



## ebhsimon

Does lapping work for most coolers? I know NH-D14 bases have huge ridges.


----------



## Shneiky

Depends on the cooler. The initial idea of lapping is to smoothen the surface, and thus, reduce the amount of air that can get in ridges, between the cooler and the thermal compound. I had no luck lapping a 212 Evo (difference was 1-2 degrees, but that is also a margin of error for TIM application). Theoretically it is worth it, practically, not always.


----------



## Carmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucky 23*
> 
> Wow dropped 7c. Very Nice


Thanks!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> @Carmaine,I guess you had the same feeling as me - the R1 finish is a bit rugged, On my R1 I can see and feel the texture of the finish. Guess I should give it a very short 400-1000-2000 lap session to get it smooth. You achieved nice results.


Yea, you don't need these many steps actually. Maybe 2 sessions of 600 & 1000 grit is all you really need. I just got a GREAT deal on an assortment in a nearby store.










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebhsimon*
> 
> Does lapping work for most coolers? I know NH-D14 bases have huge ridges.


I believe that YES, it will work in any cooler *IF* the CPU is lapped as well. But also know that TIM, and seating/reseating of the heatsink and ambient temps does affect the temps. I never achieved good temps UNTIL I lapped my 2600K CPU. You just gotta be OK with the voided warranty for it.


----------



## ebhsimon

Damn. I don't really want to lap a 5820k, especially with the Intel overclock insurance since I'll be pushing it pretty dang hard when I get it.


----------



## doyll

Lapping is done for two reasons;
1. To get as flat a surface as possible .. so there is less space between cooler and CPU.
2. To get a fine / polished / smooth a surface so there is less TIM between CPU and cooler.

The reason coolers are convex is to try and get as good a contact as possible in center area of CPU .. wich is the heat source over chips.


----------



## Telstar

They are very nice in both look and performance


----------



## JambonJovi

Very nice results, Carmaine.









Is your Sandy lapped as well?


----------



## Carmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JambonJovi*
> 
> Very nice results, Carmaine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is your Sandy lapped as well?


Yeap!

I received better temps when lapping both.


----------



## Sepesusi

Hello everyone, previously said here that I ordered one (R1 Universal). Well, good news is that it arrived today and looks atleast as sexy live as in the promo shots. Bad news is that the thing broke.









I was installing the cooler and following the instructions and when screwing in the spring screws, one of them snapped. First I wondered what the hell happened and quickly noticed that the spring screw was broken and the missing piece was in the mounting bar. I find it really odd how it broke, since the installation guide says "screw the mounting spring screws fully tight" and it snapped before I had it even fully tightened. I was just about to feel the screw getting tighter when suddenly it became just as loose as it was when I started screwing. So either I did something wrong or the screws are very bad quality. I somehow want to believe that it wasn't me, because of the way it snapped before I had even gotten it fully tight.

  

So currently I have a really expensive paper weight and I wonder what the heck should I do now. I really wouldn't want to RMA it, because I ordered it from Germany and I have a feeling they might just call it a user error and make me pay all the expenses. So I wondered if I could fix it myself. That thing looks fairly easily replacable with the right tools, but I doubt you can find screws like that from your average hardware store. I wonder if I should ask directly from Cryorig if they'd have an easy solution. I know that atleast Noctua is known for sending anything between Earth and moon to their customers.

Also has anyone else broke their screws with this thing? I'd undestand if it broke when trying to screw it too tight, but the way mine broke was very odd.


----------



## doyll

Congrats on the R1.
Condolences on over-torquing.

Over-torquing the screws can happen very easily. The fit is so good there is no friction to screwing them in and as soon as it stops turning, STOP! Add to that the 'L' shape of screwdriver makes it very easy to twist just a little too hard and you get to have a good _cry_. Just be careful to not _cry_ on your new _Cry_orig.
The good news is if you contact Cryorig, they will get you sorted out. They have very good customer service.









Email
[email protected]

Include pictures and explanation of what happened.


----------



## Sepesusi

Thanks for the info, I'll email them right now. Good to hear they have good customer support. Also read your PM, thanks a lot for the kind offer, but I just managed to get the broken bit out of the mounting bar without damaging the threads (leatherman is one heck of a tool), so all I need is a new spring screw for the heatsink (unless you meant the whole plate where the screws sit). Still nice to see how helpful people are on this forum and good to have you as the main guy of this thread.









Also forgot to mention, but that screwdriver is pretty heavy duty. Too bad I had to learn it the hard way lol. Didn't realize it would over-torque so easily, especially since my H100i mounting screws need quite a lot of force to tighten up properly.


----------



## Carmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sepesusi*
> 
> Hello everyone, previously said here that I ordered one (R1 Universal). Well, good news is that it arrived today and looks atleast as sexy live as in the promo shots. Bad news is that the thing broke.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was installing the cooler and following the instructions and when screwing in the spring screws, one of them snapped. First I wondered what the hell happened and quickly noticed that the spring screw was broken and the missing piece was in the mounting bar. I find it really odd how it broke, since the installation guide says "screw the mounting spring screws fully tight" and it snapped before I had it even fully tightened. I was just about to feel the screw getting tighter when suddenly it became just as loose as it was when I started screwing. So either I did something wrong or the screws are very bad quality. I somehow want to believe that it wasn't me, because of the way it snapped before I had even gotten it fully tight.
> 
> 
> 
> So currently I have a really expensive paper weight and I wonder what the heck should I do now. I really wouldn't want to RMA it, because I ordered it from Germany and I have a feeling they might just call it a user error and make me pay all the expenses. So I wondered if I could fix it myself. That thing looks fairly easily replacable with the right tools, but I doubt you can find screws like that from your average hardware store. I wonder if I should ask directly from Cryorig if they'd have an easy solution. I know that atleast Noctua is known for sending anything between Earth and moon to their customers.
> 
> Also has anyone else broke their screws with this thing? I'd undestand if it broke when trying to screw it too tight, but the way mine broke was very odd.


Yes, mine broke off as well. While I agree that over torquing it will break ANY part, sometimes it can be defective as well. Mine just popped and it didn't go in all the way. See below.




Cryorig provided great and fast service though so I have nothing bad to say. Sometimes, s**t happens. Hahaha


----------



## Sepesusi

Ok, thanks! Just what I wanted to hear (well not that someone else broke theirs, but that I don't have to send the whole thing back).







Just sent them the email, now I'll just wait for a response.


----------



## doyll

Carmaine has an extra screw!









Have to wonder about you guys with loose screws.









Edit:
It's 0520 in Taiwan Sepesusi. Hopefully you will have a reply in the morning. If they get it posted from Taiwan tomorrow you could have it by the weekend. I received a parcel last Friday shipped from Taiwan Tuesday. If the sent it airmail you could have it Saturday.


----------



## Carmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sepesusi*
> 
> Ok, thanks! Just what I wanted to hear (well not that someone else broke theirs, but that I don't have to send the whole thing back).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just sent them the email, now I'll just wait for a response.


Oh, it was so fast, I got the replacement screws and mounts in just 3 days after sending them the complaint email.

Very fast and responsive.

They just asked for the following:

Registration code
Name and address
Phone number


----------



## Sepesusi

That would work for me. If they send me replacements, I'll go to one of those fancy dress stores and buy a pair of silk gloves to work with these.


----------



## Manxminx

I have to say, I am extremely impressed with my Cryorig Universal, which I purchased on the strength of this thread, thanks Doyll









It's presently sitting on my new i7 4790K in my new Gigabyte Z97X-UD5H-BK











I used the TIM that came with it, and applied it like so:



(So that it once compressed by the cooler the TIM footprint at least matches the CPU dimensions under the cover of the chip).

Running it at a constant 4.4GHz @ 1.214 Volts, using AIDA64 Stress FPU for half an hour I'm getting a minimum distance to TJ Max of 16 degrees C (approx 20 degrees C ambient temp). That's without any case fans (open bench) and with only the middle fan running! At idle and web browsing etc, I can run it passive with temps sitting about 5 - 10 degrees over ambient max.

I can't agree about the fan noise that others have mentioned. It's sitting about 50cms from my ear, right next to me, and at the lowest fan speed my Gigabyte motherboard will allow, unless I try to concentrate on the fan noise, it's basically silent. Put it this way, the GPU fan in my current PC situated under my desk is louder, and that's with that fan at minimum speed.

As others have said, the packaging of the Cryorig Cooler, together with the accessories is really impressive. I was especially impressed at the registration card which came with it. Gigabyte take note!

If it wasn't for the cost of the fans I'd be buying half a dozen Cryorig XF140 fans for my case fans. However I've always been a fan (no pun intended!) of the Thermalright TY fans which I can buy a lot cheaper (My present 6 year old Intel 775 build uses TY-140's which have never missed a beat and are quiet as silk.) To be honest, once I build up a case for it, I'll probably stay with the Cryorig fans for the CPU cooler rather than use Thermalright TY-147's

Ali.


----------



## doyll

@ Manxminx
Thanks for letting us know your results and impressions.

I find the XF140 and XT140 fans quite nice myself. But with the TY-147 at half the price it's hard to spend more.


----------



## Shneiky

So I got a new wardrobe at my place this weekend. (Yes, this is Cryorig related) But sadly, while assembling, I broke both my screwdrivers (now the heads stay in place while you spin the handle). The saving grace - Cryorig's tool for mounting the R1 Ultimate. It is quite solid and did the job marvelously. Thanks to Cryorig for their solid extra, which averted disaster. (since there was a party the same day and I just had to get the wardrobe finished)


----------



## doyll

LOL. Love it!


----------



## Manxminx

Someone should start a new thread - Best alternative uses for PC accessories







I guess building a wardrobe with a CPU cooler part would be hard to top!

Ali.


----------



## Treeman574

Here's a photo with the universal in a 450D. There's about 1mm of clearance between the 970 backplate and the fan clips. Around 20mm of clearance between the cooler and the first two ram sticks, should be plenty of room if I ever decide to swap for the larger 140mm fan.

Running a 5820k at 4.2GHz with1.28V and idle temps are only a few degrees above ambient. Under AiDA64 average temperatures are around 60C and peak temps no higher than 75C in one core. Cpu fans can be a little noisy under full load, but not that bad.


----------



## doyll

Thanks Treeman.










Always good to hear how they are performing. What is your cooler intake air temp?


----------



## Treeman574

Probably around 25-30C when I ran the tests.


----------



## doyll

40-45c delta is quite good!









I suspect changing the front fan from XT140 to XF140 will only gain you a couple of degrees. I'm getting a R1 Universal for some comparison testing to prove (or disprove) my hypothesis.


----------



## Treeman574

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 40-45c delta is quite good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suspect changing the front fan from XT140 to XF140 will only gain you a couple of degrees. I'm getting a R1 Universal for some comparison testing to prove (or disprove) my hypothesis.


If anything I'd be more interested in the noise difference. But probably won't change anything while it's working so well!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Treeman574*
> 
> If anything I'd be more interested in the noise difference. But probably won't change anything while it's working so well!


Aah, come on. Where's the fun is no tinkering with our toys.









Speaking of which, I need to get busy testing. Have a few cooler I haven't even mounted up yet.


----------



## Manxminx

For Interest to anyone thinking of buying a R1 Universal, here's a photo showing the distance between the front of the cooler and the RAM slots (RAM is Kingston Hyperx Beast). As you can see I could populate all four RAM slots without fouling the cooler. (Motherboard is Gigabyte Z97X-UD5H-BK)



And yes spot another use for Cryorig Cooler accessories!









Ali.


----------



## aerial

Finally installed 2 different fans.
Very slow gelid silent fans, quiet:


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manxminx*
> 
> For Interest to anyone thinking of buying a R1 Universal, here's a photo showing the distance between the front of the cooler and the RAM slots (RAM is Kingston Hyperx Beast). As you can see I could populate all four RAM slots without fouling the cooler. (Motherboard is Gigabyte Z97X-UD5H-BK)
> 
> 
> 
> And yes spot another use for Cryorig Cooler accessories!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ali.


Nice!
If you raise the fan all the way up, would it be high enough to fit on top of RAM? Looks like there might be.

@ aerial
Always like the look of your builds. So simple and clean .. except for that one wire .. the one coming out of side of optical bay.


----------



## aerial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @ aerial
> Always like the look of your builds. So simple and clean .. except for that one wire .. the one coming out of side of optical bay.


It is to support gpu. Heavy cooler such as mk-26, needs support, otherwise pcb sags.


----------



## doyll

Sometimes we gotta do what we gotta do.


----------



## Sepesusi

Just came back from the post office with a small parcel containing a new mounting set (because I broke the first one







). Really awesome customer service from Cryorig, just needed to give my mailing address and product number and they immediately sent me the replacements without a fee.

I opened the bag and noticed that the replacement mounting screws are more robust than the originals, maybe they thought "better give the doofus something more solid so he won't break it too".











But I'm really happy with their customer service and can't wait to get this up and running. Currently I have the H100i (which has a pretty loud pump) and 4 case fans which are running at 100% all the time (because the case's own fan hub doesn't allow any speed control) and got this R1 and some Y-splitters (to get fans connected to mobo) waiting to be installed. Ahh, the silence is just around the corner.


----------



## doyll

Indeed. They have had a few get broken, so rather than just keep the old style and replace them, the are trying to make them doofus-proof.









Now arethose fancy dressup gloves you promised?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

The more I see this thread updated the more I'm tempted to source one of these out and just give it a try. I just wish a Canadian retailer had it.


----------



## doyll

newegg carries them them on their USA site, but not Canada.









You might try sending Cryorig customer support an email explaining you want one but cannot find a Canadian retailer. Maybe they can help you out.


----------



## Sepesusi

Is it expensive to order from USA in Canada? I had to order mine from Germany, but then again EU sometimes has its own advantages in situations like that. What I might have lost in the shipping costs, I gained from the product most likely being 10% cheaper than it would be if it was sold here.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> newegg carries them them on their USA site, but not Canada.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You might try sending Cryorig customer support an email explaining you want one but cannot find a Canadian retailer. Maybe they can help you out.


Yeah, it sucks when companies do things like that, but then again, they might have only secured distribution rights for the United States. I still wish more companies would realize the market we have and are up here, instead of completely ignoring us, or worse, charging exorbitant amounts.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sepesusi*
> 
> Is it expensive to order from USA in Canada? I had to order mine from Germany, but then again EU sometimes has its own advantages in situations like that. What I might have lost in the shipping costs, I gained from the product most likely being 10% cheaper than it would be if it was sold here.


It all depends, but usually prices spike like nobody's business for shipping. As an example, last time I ordered some parts for my modular synth (a power harness, and a power module) from Synthesizers.com I paid $35 USD in shipping for USPS. Those were small items, and it was back in 2012 too. If it were to cost that much for a Cryorig to be shipped up from newegg.com (assuming they will ship to Canada) I might as well just go with the NZXT Kraken X61 which I can pick up off local store shelves for $129.99 CAD. Oh wait, found it in the FAQ. Newegg.com does ~not~ ship to Canada, boo.


----------



## Sepesusi

So I finally got around to install the R1 Universal and get rid of the H100i. My computer is now pretty much dead silent compared to what it was (I also connected my case fans to the motherboard, because they were running 100% all the time and now they are under custom profiles). This thing looks pretty sexy too in my opinion (also didn't need any of those fancy gloves, turns out common sense is more useful







).

Heres a picture of the rig (had to take it in low lighting, so the quality might not be the best):



Haven't tested it in action yet, but I'm confident that it will do just fine.


----------



## doyll

Good to hear you got it installed.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sepesusi*
> 
> So I finally got around to install the R1 Universal and get rid of the H100i. My computer is now pretty much dead silent compared to what it was (I also connected my case fans to the motherboard, because they were running 100% all the time and now they are under custom profiles). This thing looks pretty sexy too in my opinion (also didn't need any of those fancy gloves, turns out common sense is more useful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> Heres a picture of the rig (had to take it in low lighting, so the quality might not be the best):
> 
> 
> 
> Haven't tested it in action yet, but I'm confident that it will do just fine.


.....I was thinking about switching my HTPC to that case but now.... Wow. yeah, I want the H440 to replace the Define R4 it's currently in!


----------



## Sepesusi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> .....I was thinking about switching my HTPC to that case but now.... Wow. yeah, I want the H440 to replace the Define R4 it's currently in!


I went to this from the Define R4 and I have to say, this is the superior case. I think only thing better about the R4 is the HDD trays, but can't think of anything else that I would miss from it. Define R4 is a great case too, but I like H440 more. I liked to build into this.

And for the thread to not be only offtopic, I noticed that I could easily fit another of those 25mm (Cryorig XF140?) fans instead of using the slim fan, without hitting the RAM. As far as I've understood, 25mm fans are always better than slim ones, so should I order one? Funny how they sell Cryorig fans in local computer stores, but not the coolers.


----------



## Manxminx

Sepesusi, your rig looks really smart, clean and sophisticated









As for the fan, yes, I'd say go for it, always best to have matching performance fans IMO.

Ali.


----------



## doyll

You can if you want, but reviews of both show 1-3c difference. I would same the money for now. I'm getting a R1 Universal hopefully next week to test against the R1 Ultimate. At that time I hope to try NF-A15 PWM 15600rpm, TY-147 PWM 1300rpm and TY-143 PWM 2500rpm fans just to see what happens. I'm hoping to also get hold of some of PH-F140HP PWM, PH-F140XP PWM and maybe the new PH-F140MP PWM 1600rpm that has been announced. Their fan design looks like it might do a very good job!


----------



## Sepesusi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manxminx*
> 
> Sepesusi, your rig looks really smart, clean and sophisticated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the fan, yes, I'd say go for it, always best to have matching performance fans IMO.
> 
> Ali.


Thanks man. I'm really happy with my current build myself. Looks good to my eyes and works great, so I can just concentrate on using it, instead of fiddling around with it (although sometimes it's hard to resist).








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You can if you want, but reviews of both show 1-3c difference. I would same the money for now. I'm getting a R1 Universal hopefully next week to test against the R1 Ultimate. At that time I hope to try NF-A15 PWM 15600rpm, TY-147 PWM 1300rpm and TY-143 PWM 2500rpm fans just to see what happens. I'm hoping to also get hold of some of PH-F140HP PWM, PH-F140XP PWM and maybe the new PH-F140MP PWM 1600rpm that has been announced. Their fan design looks like it might do a very good job!


I think I'm gonna wait for your findings then. When I browsed the store for the thicker fan, I saw those TY-147s and two of them would actually cost the same as one Cryorig XF140. My friend says that Phanteks fans are the best he ever had used and I've seen people say good things about them, so they are indeed very interesting too.


----------



## doyll

TY-147 is a Thermalright fan. The Noctua NF-A14, A15, etc. look and perform the same at same speed, but cost much more.


----------



## Manxminx

I love my Thermalright fans. I just really wish they'd make the frames square and have both 120 & 140 screw hole spacing. then they'd be a lot more compatible in certain situations.

Ali.


----------



## Shneiky

@ doyll,

If I could bother you for a minute. Would you also test all those fans with lowest RPM as well? Would be really helpful for a lot of people. Thank you.


----------



## Steve-S

Hi All!

This is Steve from CRYORIG, I would like to announce that we have a special event for OCN members and in particular for members on this thread for being so awesome!

Here are the details:

*Prize*: *1 Colored heatsink shroud set* of your choice, shroud only!!! Available colors are: Gold/Orange/Red/Blue/White/Black as seen in the photo below.
*Winners*: Two
*Eligibility*: Opened to all OCN members.
*How to Enter*ost one photo of your RIG with CRYORIG heatsink.
*When*: Right Now ~November 25th
*How will we draw*: Two winners will be selected totally by random, this is not a beauty contest. However, as respectable modders/overclockers you should always take pride in your clean cool RIG. We might throw in an additional prize for outstanding systems








All photos will need to be submitted after this post (post#536). And final entry date will be on November 25th 23:59 (PST/UTC-8). More accurately I'll leave an "end of entry post" signaling no more entries are allowed.

*For users without an awesome CRYORIG heatsink you can still participate by posting a photoshopped picture of your RIG with our provided CRYORIG product overlay.
Example:*

 

*The Prize:*


*We have sets for R1, C1 and H5. These are made specially to match the color themes of popular mainboards.*
  

CR_Overlay_File.png 2062k .png file


----------



## Steve-S

The colored shrouds were made for our expo at Taipei Computex 2014. Designed to match the demo machines we had at our booth. We've only gave out less than 10 worldwide to some select media sites and distribution partners. So you will not find these anywhere, for now.

For each shroud we apply a triple layer of coating for a near automotive coating finish. This way we achieved high saturated color with near metallic finish, which goes nicely with our aluminum based heatsinks.


----------



## dgershko

would be pretty nice with a red cooler no?


----------



## doyll

Very nice of Steve / Cryorig to give us this opportunity to win colored shroud sets.









Just another example of Cryorig's great customer support and service.

I'm hoping we get enough interest in this drawing that Cryorig will start marketing the colored shroud sets as an accessory.







Hint. Hint.









Red, yellow, gold, orange, .. what other colors are needed?


----------



## Manxminx

Yes, thanks Steve, the coloured shrouds look beautiful








Quote:


> what other colors are needed?


Purple. I want purple. But I guess there wouldn't be much demand for it. It would definitely be good to have a choice of primary colours and gold.

Ali.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Wow that orange is gorgeous. Sadly, I don't own an R1 atm (no Canadian distributors, haven't looked into which US ones will ship to Canada yet and what kind of potential additional fees I'll have to deal with) and I'm horrible with Photoshop. An R1 Ultimate would definitely look sweet in my rig though!


----------



## Mang Keon

Hi. Can I join this group? My very first post too. LOL

I own a c1 cooler and it looks so good and based on the reviews, perform very well also.

I have yet to actually mount and test the temps but I test fitted on a Z97I plus motherboard in an SG-05 case.

I have clearance issues with the exposed heatpipes facing the mems. It will fit with the shroud removed and with a regular 120mm fan.The other end barely touches the IO panel side of the case.

Facing the other way, it would bump into an exhaust fan on top near the front(SG-05 oriented like the bottom will become the right side)and the psu relocated to the front as well. direct mounted with a use of 120mm-80mm fan adapter.

So--- maybe ditch the shroud and use R1 clips to mount the fan off set? Might work.


----------



## Mang Keon

Just to add--I'll be using sfx 450 gold from silverstone.And I want to use the Cryorig fan supplied ( XT140).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Wow that orange is gorgeous. Sadly, I don't own an R1 atm (no Canadian distributors, haven't looked into which US ones will ship to Canada yet and what kind of potential additional fees I'll have to deal with) and I'm horrible with Photoshop. An R1 Ultimate would definitely look sweet in my rig though!


Have you asked Cryorig if they could sell you a cooler directly? They may be able to it sense they don't have a Canadian distributor yet.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mang Keon*
> 
> Hi. Can I join this group? My very first post too. LOL
> 
> I own a c1 cooler and it looks so good and based on the reviews, perform very well also.
> 
> I have yet to actually mount and test the temps but I test fitted on a Z97I plus motherboard in an SG-05 case.
> 
> I have clearance issues with the exposed heatpipes facing the mems. It will fit with the shroud removed and with a regular 120mm fan.The other end barely touches the IO panel side of the case.
> 
> Facing the other way, it would bump into an exhaust fan on top near the front(SG-05 oriented like the bottom will become the right side)and the psu relocated to the front as well. direct mounted with a use of 120mm-80mm fan adapter.
> 
> So--- maybe ditch the shroud and use R1 clips to mount the fan off set? Might work.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hi Mang Keon, and welcome!









Could you remove the exhaust fan above cooler and duct the vent directly into the XT140? .. Or turn the cooler fan so it is pulling air up through cooler and exhausting it out the vent? I don't have a C1, but in testing other pancake coolers have found that most often they cool better with fan pulling from rather than pushing into cooler. This is because the airflow when pushing into cooler exhausts heated air toward motherboard, air turns out hitting the GPU, turns hitting RAM, I/O socket housings, heatsinks, turns up past cooler & fan and gets sucked back into fan. When mounting to pull air from cooler the airflow is over RAM, heatsinks, etc. under cooler and up through cooler, fan and pushed away .. and hopefully flows on out of case.


----------



## Mang Keon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Hi Mang Keon, and welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could you remove the exhaust fan above cooler and duct the vent directly into the XT140? .. Or turn the cooler fan so it is pulling air up through cooler and exhausting it out the vent? I don't have a C1, but in testing other pancake coolers have found that most often they cool better with fan pulling from rather than pushing into cooler. This is because the airflow when pushing into cooler exhausts heated air toward motherboard, air turns out hitting the GPU, turns hitting RAM, I/O socket housings, heatsinks, turns up past cooler & fan and gets sucked back into fan. When mounting to pull air from cooler the airflow is over RAM, heatsinks, etc. under cooler and up through cooler, fan and pushed away .. and hopefully flows on out of case.


Hi doyll.Thanks for the welcome and suggestions.

Actually the case has vent holes above the cooler. But I plan to put a window on that and instead the vents will be on the I/O shield side.The top fan would be the only fan that will exhaust air and below that fan is the PSU. I can't have the fan pulling air as I will have an intake fan mounted on the side of the case facing the cooler's top as in directly cooling the hsf.
I want to see this thing inside the case, hence the windows.


----------



## Mang Keon

I also contacted cryorig as I broke the tabs on the shroud-









I asked for extra shroud and R1 clips and they said it will fit the c1, but how to fit off set , it's not yet clear -It will cost me shipping tho.but that's ok.
Very good customer service, answered promptly too.


----------



## doyll

Experiment with case airflow and cooler fan. You might find the link in my sig to case airflow helpful.


----------



## Mang Keon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Experiment with case airflow and cooler fan. You might find the link in my sig to case airflow helpful.


Wow thanks for the link!
Very "cool"!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have you asked Cryorig if they could sell you a cooler directly? They may be able to it sense they don't have a Canadian distributor yet.


I'll look into such next month as there should be extra cash kicking around to do such. I'll also more than likely give a shot at photochopping in an r1 ultimate in a shot of my rig because I -really- would loooove those orange shrouds!!

And before I forget again, I did email their support and the cooler should fit my z87x-oc with a card in the first slot so woohoo!


----------



## Aluc13

Anyone know if these fit x99? I dont see them in compatability list


----------



## Sepesusi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> Anyone know if these fit x99? I dont see them in compatability list


X99 (LGA2011-v3) uses the same mounting as the previous LGA2011. I remember reading on it and there was something slightly different about the mounting so that the LGA2011 mounting set doesn't go straight onto X99. But I believe by submitting proof of purchase etc to CRYORIG, they will send you free of charge a kit that allows you to mount it on LGA2011-v3.

http://www.hardwareheaven.com/2014/09/cryorig-provides-free-upgrade-lga-2011-3/


----------



## Aluc13

Ah okay. How does it compare to say a dh15? I plan on overclocking this time around


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> Ah okay. How does it compare to say a dh15? I plan on overclocking this time around


R1 Ultimate is as good as NH-D15.. assume that is what you were asking.

The NH-D15 has 1500rpm fans and R1 has 1300rpmm fans. I'm about to do some testing with faster fans on the R1 to see how it performs. It may improve cooling by a few degrees and make it the uncontested leader in air coolers.


----------



## Aluc13

Ah alright post your results. I'd like to see if there is an improvement


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> Ah alright post your results. I'd like to see if there is an improvement


It will definitely be posted here.








To use the Cryorig coolers on LGA2011-3 you will need a set of Cryorig 2011-3 studs. They will send them free of charge. The studs supplied with cooler have too long a thread on them .. and are also slightly shorter. The 2011-3 stands slightly taller than older 2011 does, but not enough that other cooler companies are changing the studs.


----------



## Aluc13

Ah alright. Is it possible to buy the cooler then while it is still being sent show proof of purchase?


----------



## Sepesusi

It said in the news that you would need to show them proof of purchase for an X99 motherboard and product registration code for a Cryorig cooler. The registration comes on a card with the cooler, but considering how helpful the customer support is, you might want to ask them if it would be ok to get the LGA2011-3 screws if you provided them with a proof of purchase of the cooler some other way before it you get it.


----------



## Steve-S

Hey
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Wow that orange is gorgeous. Sadly, I don't own an R1 atm (no Canadian distributors, haven't looked into which US ones will ship to Canada yet and what kind of potential additional fees I'll have to deal with) and I'm horrible with Photoshop. An R1 Ultimate would definitely look sweet in my rig though!


Have you even seen the example pic? LOL


You don't need any master Photoshop skills, just crop and copy on with Microsoft Paint will be enough.

Also, we're trying really hard to strike a deal with NCIX at the moment. Some push from users like yourself will go a long way, and hopefully push ahead the schedule!


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> R1 Ultimate is as good as NH-D15.. assume that is what you were asking.
> 
> The NH-D15 has 1500rpm fans and R1 has 1300rpmm fans. I'm about to do some testing with faster fans on the R1 to see how it performs. It may improve cooling by a few degrees and make it the uncontested leader in air coolers.


Actually the R1 should perform even better with high RPM fans. But sorry I can't personally post any stats, and we also broke our D15....which the local distributor is not willing to refund.....


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sepesusi*
> 
> It said in the news that you would need to show them proof of purchase for an X99 motherboard and product registration code for a Cryorig cooler. The registration comes on a card with the cooler, but considering how helpful the customer support is, you might want to ask them if it would be ok to get the LGA2011-3 screws if you provided them with a proof of purchase of the cooler some other way before it you get it.


Actually, if you have a valid proof of purchase of both the LGA2011-3 board and our heatsink. Then yes we can cut some corners and send the kit out first. But please please please remember to send in the product registration code and register your product.

Also, the LGA2011-3 issue is resolved in the H5, and we'll also fix this for all of our future stock.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Actually the R1 should perform even better with high RPM fans. But sorry I can't personally post any stats, and we also broke our D15....which the local distributor is not willing to refund.....


LOL.
It does, but I want more test runs and documentation before I publish the results.








Poor D15 just couldn't stand the competition?









I'm sure I speak for everyone her on the Cryorig thread. We really do appreciate your great customer support and service. Giving us a chance to win the custom colored shrouds is much more than other companies do.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I'll look into such next month as there should be extra cash kicking around to do such. I'll also more than likely give a shot at photochopping in an r1 ultimate in a shot of my rig because I -really- would loooove those orange shrouds!!
> 
> And before I forget again, I did email their support and the cooler should fit my z87x-oc with a card in the first slot so woohoo!


Hey WW, I checked your board and it's sad to tell you that your first PCI-E will most likely be covered by the fins of the R1 (both versions).
I'm not sure what support told you, but likely they only checked for "mounting ability."


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> LOL.
> It does, but I want more test runs and documentation before I publish the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Poor D15 just couldn't stand the competition?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure I speak for everyone her on the Cryorig thread. We really do appreciate your great customer support and service. Giving us a chance to win the custom colored shrouds is much more than other companies do.


We appreciate every bit of support we can get from this great community. Community involvement is very high in our priority list, and OCN has always been one of those places where good constructive advice, tips and feedback is shared among it's members. Not for personally gains either, just to help out your fellow member of the PC Master Race. We're really a grass roots type of brand. I literally take everything I see on here and on other forums to our internal discussion panels, so that we can come up with products that fit the community's needs, and improve on things that matter. So this is not a favor for OCN or for this thread, rather this is a big "Thank You" note we want to give back to the community.

Also, we'll be having another event soon for registered VIP members (people who registered their heatsinks). So don't forget to do that too!
Last thing, we are kind of on the fence wither or not to market the colored shrouds. They are a pain in the arse and a bit expensive to make though, so much so that our original paint coating partner will only do samples and not mass produce this for us







But like doyll said, if people are interested enough, then it should help us in evaluating possible volume and push this project forward. I really hope it does take off though, because I've seen how much potential we can have on this.

Yeah, sorry for the long post... I ramble a lot.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Hey
> 
> Have you even seen the example pic? LOL
> 
> 
> You don't need any master Photoshop skills, just crop and copy on with Microsoft Paint will be enough.
> 
> Also, we're trying really hard to strike a deal with NCIX at the moment. Some push from users like yourself will go a long way, and hopefully push ahead the schedule!


It was a masterful example pic ^_^ It's still tempting to enter, even with the news provided below.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Hey WW, I checked your board and it's sad to tell you that your first PCI-E will most likely be covered by the fins of the R1 (both versions).
> I'm not sure what support told you, but likely they only checked for "mounting ability."


Ah, in the email I asked about Z87X-OC as well as Z87X-OC Force compatability since some of the USB sockets are acting up on my current board. Also, the OC Force is sexier (especially with EK's VRM/chipset waterblock). Asking about both boards probably caused the confusion, especially since a single card in the OC Force is supposed to use the 2nd PCIe slot to keep any latency to a minimum (2nd slot bypasses PLX chip on the OC Force)

Not using the first PCIe slot on my current board is probably not the best of ideas, since the only other one that's even 8x is the fourth slot. Hmmmm.... I'll have to think about things it would seem.


----------



## Steve-S

http://www.gigabyte.us/FileUpload/Features/2/Photo/3253.jpg

Based on this photo, shouldn't you be using the 2nd PCI-E Slot anyways?


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Actually, if you have a valid proof of purchase of both the LGA2011-3 board and our heatsink. Then yes we can cut some corners and send the kit out first. But please please please remember to send in the product registration code and register your product.
> 
> Also, the LGA2011-3 issue is resolved in the H5, and we'll also fix this for all of our future stock.


oh okay thanks!


----------



## doyll

Steve, are you sure the R1 won't fit on the Z87X OC? I could be wrong, but I thought the Z87X-OC was about 73mm from center CPU to side of 1st PCIe socket. My R1 measures 143.4mm wide on the fan clips. .. that is just under 72mm from center CPU to side of cooler. This would put the fan clips 1mm from the side of socket and there is another 3mm of socket to the edge of slot the GPU PCB plugs into. The most you should need to do is put some insulation on the fan clips just to be super safe.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.us/FileUpload/Features/2/Photo/3253.jpg
> 
> Based on this photo, shouldn't you be using the 2nd PCI-E Slot anyways?


At present I own the non-force. I have been thinking about upgrading to its big brother though.


----------



## Steve-S

Your estimates are correct. But being on the safe side of things, 3mm is a bit of a gamble. We don't have this board so it's tough to give a stamp of approval for the PCI-E socket compatibility. I would still advise WW to be cautious that there is a possibility that it won't fit.


----------



## Aluc13

Will this cooler fit on an ASROCK extreme 4 or MSI x99 mpower? will it over any PCIE or RAM slots? I just want to be safe on that before I buy


----------



## Sepesusi

Just throwing in my shot for the draw! Took the photo in a better lighting this time and without the side panel. I really tried to go for a sleek look when putting together this build. And not trying to kiss any butts, but it didn't take long for me to order the R1 Universal when I saw this thread and learned of these coolers. Probably the best looking air cooler in my opinion.


----------



## doyll

Was just reading another cooler test / review. Again Cryorig R1 Ultimate is the best. We are talking 1c better but in test after test R1 is 1-2c better than that cooler with brown fans that run faster .. and those same brown fans lower R1 another 1-2c making it 2-4c better.









Red & orange fans soon.


----------



## Manxminx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Was just reading another cooler test / review. Again Cryorig R1 Ultimate is the best


Go on, give us the link, I'd like to read it.

Ali.


----------



## doyll

There are so many reviews out there .. and none are even remotely accurate none of them monitor the actual air temp going into cooler. Using room ambient is like looking at a thermometer in the bedroom to see what the temperature is in the kitchen. Kitchen temp varies depending on if windows are open, how much cooling is being done, if oven is being used, etc. .. definitely not the same as bedroom temp.








* climbs down off soap box *
http://www.pcgameware.co.uk/reviews/cpu-coolers/noctua-nh-d15-cpu-cooler-review/


----------



## Aluc13

So what your saying is the r1 ultimate is better than a noctua with noctua fans?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> There are so many reviews out there .. and none are even remotely accurate none of them monitor the actual air temp going into cooler. Using room ambient is like looking at a thermometer in the bedroom to see what the temperature is in the kitchen. Kitchen temp varies depending on if windows are open, how much cooling is being done, if oven is being used, etc. .. definitely not the same as bedroom temp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> * climbs down off soap box *
> http://www.pcgameware.co.uk/reviews/cpu-coolers/noctua-nh-d15-cpu-cooler-review/


There is a typo in their noise levels for the NH-D15, or an equipment malfunction during testing. The NH-D15 is _not_ by any stretch of the imagination louder than the R1 Ultimate, it is very noticeable quieter. I am guessing it was a simple typed "44" rather than "34".

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> So what your saying is the r1 ultimate is better than a noctua with noctua fans?


I have had the R1 Ultimate and NH-D15 head-to-head in a number of reviews and tests. They are always within a degree or two of each other (margin of error for a particular seating). However, the R1 _always_ tests slightly better in my Phantom 530, while the NH-D15 _always_ tests better in the Enthoo Luxe. In a Define R4 they trade places at will. But always within a degree or two in every scenario.


----------



## Manxminx

Thanks for the link Doyll, very interesting,m and yet another review site I've not come across before (just how many are there out there!).

I fully agree with your rant, it's the air temp entering the cooler which is important, not the room temp. The two can vary dramatically. I'm really looking forward to your forthcoming review. And yes, as another poster said, it would be good if you could test at low fan RPM (or subjectively silent fan speed settings) as well as high RPM.

Ali.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There is a typo in their noise levels for the NH-D15, or an equipment malfunction during testing. The NH-D15 is _not_ by any stretch of the imagination louder than the R1 Ultimate, it is very noticeable quieter. I am guessing it was a simple typed "44" rather than "34".
> I have had the R1 Ultimate and NH-D15 head-to-head in a number of reviews and tests. They are always within a degree or two of each other (margin of error for a particular seating). However, the R1 _always_ tests slightly better in my Phantom 530, while the NH-D15 _always_ tests better in the Enthoo Luxe. In a Define R4 they trade places at will. But always within a degree or two in every scenario.


I hadn't noticed. Just looked at the temps. My bad..

The difference in your results in different cases is most likely the difference in case airflow and resulting cooler intake air temps during the test. As fan speed changes so does the case airflow and as a result the cooler intake air temp often changes too. Airflow is such a Bickled Fitch it is often impossible to prodict what it will do .. at least we can usually analyze it and understand in hindsight.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manxminx*
> 
> Thanks for the link Doyll, very interesting,m and yet another review site I've not come across before (just how many are there out there!).
> 
> I fully agree with your rant, it's the air temp entering the cooler which is important, not the room temp. The two can vary dramatically. I'm really looking forward to your forthcoming review. And yes, as another poster said, it would be good if you could test at low fan RPM (or subjectively silent fan speed settings) as well as high RPM.
> 
> Ali.


As I have a decent sound meter and an ambient noise level of just over 30dBA it's not a problem to check sound levels above 31-32dBA.

I'm testing with fans on automatic PWM with 25%@25c to 100%@65c ( my normal running setting) for prolonged testing and review using a cooler for a couple of weeks at a time on personal system. Testing on test system is at fixed speed on fans in PWM mode and could also do a run using a <40dBA as ciarlatano does (he's my idol







) and try and do one at like 33-34dBA? That would be about 700-850rpm for most fans.


----------



## Dyaems

oh oh oh a promo! Lemme join for a chance to win that shroud










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
























Same case, different rig (switched my main rig to a wider case)


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> Will this cooler fit on an ASROCK extreme 4 or MSI x99 mpower? will it over any PCIE or RAM slots? I just want to be safe on that before I buy


RAM interference is a problem with X99/X79 boards. Using the R1 Ultimate you will get 32.3mm of RAM tolerance front and back, and 30.2mm for the R1 Universal.




On the MSI only the 1st PCIEx1 will be interfered. The first X16 slot is fine.
On the ASROCK extreme 4 you will need to avoid the first PCIEx16 slot.


----------



## Aluc13

Ah alright thanks.


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Steve, are you sure the R1 won't fit on the Z87X OC? I could be wrong, but I thought the Z87X-OC was about 73mm from center CPU to side of 1st PCIe socket. My R1 measures 143.4mm wide on the fan clips. .. that is just under 72mm from center CPU to side of cooler. This would put the fan clips 1mm from the side of socket and there is another 3mm of socket to the edge of slot the GPU PCB plugs into. The most you should need to do is put some insulation on the fan clips just to be super safe.


I do not have an R1 with me but I have a couple of sealed Z87X-OC with me gathering dust. Want me to do some measurements? I do not have a good camera though


----------



## fr1s

When can we expect these in Canada?? (NCIX)

Thinking of ordering one from Newegg and shipping it to the border


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> RAM interference is a problem with X99/X79 boards. Using the R1 Ultimate you will get 32.3mm of RAM tolerance front and back, and 30.2mm for the R1 Universal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the MSI only the 1st PCIEx1 will be interfered. The first X16 slot is fine.
> On the ASROCK extreme 4 you will need to avoid the first PCIEx16 slot.


Nice drawings! Hadn't seen them before.

FYI for others:
The distance from top of CPU to surface of motherboard is 8mm (8.014mm +/-0.34mm to be precise).
New LGA2011v3 is LGA2011-3 8.481mm +/-0.270mm.
RAM socket raises RAM 3mm .. RAM height + 3mm is top of RAM to surface of motherboard.

End result is same as Steve's drawing .. just using motherboard surface as starting point rather than CPU in motherboard socket.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> I do not have an R1 with me but I have a couple of sealed Z87X-OC with me gathering dust. Want me to do some measurements? I do not have a good camera though


That would be great!
I have an overview picture of Z87X-OC. It is 1183x972 so is decent resolution that I can add / change measurements on. You could measure from center of mount holes. This measurement plus 37.5mm is centerline of CPU.


----------



## Kutalion

Hello, just bought a cryorig R1 ultimate for my 4690k. Tried OCing it to 4.6ghz and 1.2V. Seems pretty high temps for prime95 small fft. Went up to 83 degrees. Only just set it up today, does the thermal compound take some time to sit in? I've put in a small amount, about a grain of rice.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Hello, just bought a cryorig R1 ultimate for my 4690k. Tried OCing it to 4.6ghz and 1.2V. Seems pretty high temps for prime95 small fft. Went up to 83 degrees. Only just set it up today, does the thermal compound take some time to sit in? I've put in a small amount, about a grain of rice.


There are known issues with P95 small ftt and Devils Canyon chips. Try an OCCT stress test, the results will be more reliable.


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice drawings! Hadn't seen them before.
> 
> FYI for others:
> The distance from top of CPU to surface of motherboard is 8mm (8.014mm +/-0.34mm to be precise).
> New LGA2011v3 is LGA2011-3 8.481mm +/-0.270mm.
> RAM socket raises RAM 3mm .. RAM height + 3mm is top of RAM to surface of motherboard.
> 
> End result is same as Steve's drawing .. just using motherboard surface as starting point rather than CPU in motherboard socket.
> That would be great!
> I have an overview picture of Z87X-OC. It is 1183x972 so is decent resolution that I can add / change measurements on. You could measure from center of mount holes. This measurement plus 37.5mm is centerline of CPU.


I'll do that when I get home. Yesterday I couldn't find my trusty measuring tape (lol)


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Hello, just bought a cryorig R1 ultimate for my 4690k. Tried OCing it to 4.6ghz and 1.2V. Seems pretty high temps for prime95 small fft. Went up to 83 degrees. Only just set it up today, does the thermal compound take some time to sit in? I've put in a small amount, about a grain of rice.


Hi, I would like to advise to use either the X method or the thin layer method of spreading the TIM. Also, do not over torque the spring screws. When you feel a stop then STOP. These are the only advice I can think of now. Also, small fft like @ciarlatano said is getting high temps all around http://www.overclock.net/t/1490324/the-intel-devils-canyon-owners-club/8160

Nice read about TIM spreading
http://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Thermal-Paste-Application-Techniques-170/


----------



## Kutalion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Hi, I would like to advise to use either the X method or the thin layer method of spreading the TIM. Also, do not over torque the spring screws. When you feel a stop then STOP. These are the only advice I can think of now. Also, small fft like @ciarlatano said is getting high temps all around http://www.overclock.net/t/1490324/the-intel-devils-canyon-owners-club/8160
> 
> Nice read about TIM spreading
> http://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Thermal-Paste-Application-Techniques-170/


Thanks, yeah mounting was fine, i read about it and the concerns of breaking the mounting. I guess its fine then, probably just FFT being mad. Ill try again tomorrow with linx and occt stress tests.
Was pretty nasty to screw the cooler in tho, screws werent exactly under the holes made in the heatsink. Rest was a breeze tho.


----------



## Manxminx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There are known issues with P95 small ftt and Devils Canyon chips. Try an OCCT stress test, the results will be more reliable.


The other day I got called "profoundly ignorant" for not worrying that my PC won't complete Prime95, despite it passing every other benchmark I can find. From my research, both here and elsewhere I'd agree that you shouldn't worry if Prime95 causes issues. But then I'm "profoundly ignorant", so what do I know?









Ali.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manxminx*
> 
> The other day I got called "profoundly ignorant" for not worrying that my PC won't complete Prime95, despite it passing every other benchmark I can find. From my research, both here and elsewhere I'd agree that you shouldn't worry if Prime95 causes issues. But then I'm "profoundly ignorant", so what do I know?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ali.


Perhaps the issuer of the statement was profoundly ignorant to P95's heat issues with DC CPUs?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Hi, I would like to advise to use either the X method or the thin layer method of spreading the TIM. Also, do not over torque the spring screws. When you feel a stop then STOP. These are the only advice I can think of now. Also, small fft like @ciarlatano said is getting high temps all around http://www.overclock.net/t/1490324/the-intel-devils-canyon-owners-club/8160
> 
> Nice read about TIM spreading
> http://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Thermal-Paste-Application-Techniques-170/


I remember this TIM application testing. It's a great article. Always good to see people making the products actually using them and know what they are doing rather just in it to just make money!








Only one possible problem is see is there is no mention of a convex surface on the clear acrylic used for he see thru prints .. and if it is just a flat piece of acrylic the spread and print will not be the same as under a convex cooler base.

There is another similar article by Hardware Secrets in 2011:
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/What-is-the-Best-Way-to-Apply-Thermal-Grease/1303

And with direct-touch heatpipe coolers:
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/What-is-the-Best-Way-to-Apply-Thermal-Grease-Part-2/1392


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manxminx*
> 
> The other day I got called "profoundly ignorant" for not worrying that my PC won't complete Prime95, despite it passing every other benchmark I can find. From my research, both here and elsewhere I'd agree that you shouldn't worry if Prime95 causes issues. But then I'm "profoundly ignorant", so what do I know?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ali.


Just laugh at those people dood. I don't even stress Haswell processors using p95 (although it is doable) and I'm just using a modified x264 for stress testing. Not only x264 stresses as much as those "usual" stress tests, it also runs cool and requires alot less voltage. And gaming is my last stress test.

I don't crash or BSOD doing my usual stuff after making my OC stable by doing x264 and gaming.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Just laugh at those people dood. I don't even stress Haswell processors using p95 (although it is doable) and I'm just using a modified x264 for stress testing. Not only x264 stresses as much as those "usual" stress tests, it also runs cool and requires alot less voltage. And gaming is my last stress test.
> 
> I don't crash or BSOD doing my usual stuff after making my OC stable by doing x264 and gaming.


I often test using 2x Handbrake encoding sessions at same time. Pushes all cores to 100% for long periods of time.


----------



## TorokF

Hello everyone! I'm currently facing an issue in assembling my new rig and so I'm here asking your help









I have a brand new Asus X99-A motherboard and wanted to install the Cryorig R1 Ultimate on it, but the thing is... I can't seem to find it in any store close to me!








Everyone I tried so far says "Out of stock" and i've been stuck for 2 weeks already with stale orders.

I'm already in possession of the Cryorig LGA 2011.V3 Screw Pillar Set but without the Air cooler I can't assemble the new pc!

By any chance does any of you know one online store with it in stock? I live in Europe, northern Italy for all it's worth! Thanks already









Pricing I don't mind as long as it's around 100€ with shipping included.

One more "important" thing, I've seen on multiple amazon websites that they're expecting a new batch for the 26th of November, would you guys trust that date? If that is the case I may just wait for it.
Spanish Amazon: http://www.amazon.es/CRYORIG-Ultimate-Ventilador-Enfriador-Procesador/dp/B00HUHC3WY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416594859&sr=8-1&keywords=ultimate+r1
French Amazon: http://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B00HUHC3WY/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=A1X6FK5RDHNB96&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=0SH9WX1RVV158ZSAR7NM&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=455673027&pf_rd_i=405320


----------



## Sepesusi

I've ordered a product 2 times that were out of stock from _amazon.de_ and both times I was informed before the estimated availability date that they have it in stock and are ready to be sent. I don't know how well that correlates with the trustworthy of the estimates, but atleast I have positive experiences with them.









I got my R1 Universal from _alternate.de_, have you checked if they have it? Should be well under 100€ from there.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TorokF*
> 
> Hello everyone! I'm currently facing an issue in assembling my new rig and so I'm here asking your help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a brand new Asus X99-A motherboard and wanted to install the Cryorig R1 Ultimate on it, but the thing is... I can't seem to find it in any store close to me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone I tried so far says "Out of stock" and i've been stuck for 2 weeks already with stale orders.
> 
> I'm already in possession of the Cryorig LGA 2011.V3 Screw Pillar Set but without the Air cooler I can't assemble the new pc!
> 
> By any chance does any of you know one online store with it in stock? I live in Europe, northern Italy for all it's worth! Thanks already
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pricing I don't mind as long as it's around 100€ with shipping included.
> 
> One more "important" thing, I've seen on multiple amazon websites that they're expecting a new batch for the 26th of November, would you guys trust that date? If that is the case I may just wait for it.
> Spanish Amazon: http://www.amazon.es/CRYORIG-Ultimate-Ventilador-Enfriador-Procesador/dp/B00HUHC3WY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416594859&sr=8-1&keywords=ultimate+r1
> French Amazon: http://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B00HUHC3WY/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=A1X6FK5RDHNB96&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=0SH9WX1RVV158ZSAR7NM&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=455673027&pf_rd_i=405320


Call Alternate.de. As far as I know they are the EU distributor.


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> That would be great!
> I have an overview picture of Z87X-OC. It is 1183x972 so is decent resolution that I can add / change measurements on. You could measure from center of mount holes. This measurement plus 37.5mm is centerline of CPU.


Just measured it. Its 70mm from the center of the CPU to the first PCIe slot, and 53mm from the center of the CPU to the first RAM slot.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Just measured it. Its 70mm from the center of the CPU to the first PCIe slot, and 53mm from the center of the CPU to the first RAM slot.


Thanks!
Your measurements are to the slot in the socket? Or are they to the side of socket nearest to CPU?


----------



## Manxminx

We were previously discussing measuring ambient temperatures and that Room temp was not relevant, one eneeds to measure the temp of the air entering the cooler.

Here's how I do it:



Oh and come on folks, *we need some more pics for the competition to win coloured shrouds!*

Here's my entry:



Ali.


----------



## doyll

I have a test stand like yours!









So what is the cooler intake air temp compared to room temp?
I'm guessing little difference .. 1c difference? Bench test system and tower cooler are pretty good at keeping intake and exhaust separated .. and there is no video card contributing heat either. .


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks!
> Your measurements are to the slot in the socket? Or are they to the side of socket nearest to CPU?


I measured both from the center of the CPU to the side of PCIe and RAM socket.


----------



## Manxminx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doyll*
> So what is the cooler intake air temp compared to room temp?
> I'm guessing little difference .. 1c difference?


Actually, my room temp can vary by as much as 5 degrees or more depending on where one measures. 17th Century stone miners cottage up in the hills, solid walls, open wood fire giving direct rather than radiated heat, it's amazing the air currents here, for example warm air hits the stone walls, immediately cools and sinks. I think PC temp will actually be more stable once it's in a case!

Ali.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> I measured both from the center of the CPU to the side of PCIe and RAM socket.


So my scaling of image is off by 3mm making the fit of R1 quite close.
I re-measured my R1 fan clips
141.13mm for 3 of them
143.0mm on 4th
4th could be tweaked to measure the same as other 3 do now.
Fins and shrouds measure 141.1mm. As long as video card has no major protrusions or back plate it will work.
Like Steve said, closer than he wanted to say would clear even though it will.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manxminx*
> 
> Actually, my room temp can vary by as much as 5 degrees or more depending on where one measures. 17th Century stone miners cottage up in the hills, solid walls, open wood fire giving direct rather than radiated heat, it's amazing the air currents here, for example warm air hits the stone walls, immediately cools and sinks. I think PC temp will actually be more stable once it's in a case!
> 
> Ali.


Sounds like a nice place.








When I was young a friend and I had a similar place we would retreat to on weeks and in summer. Was built of rock adn log into side of cliff with small steam in front. Had water piped gravity flow. No tap on it. Constant flow . it would sometimes free in winter and we would have to break ice on stream or melt snow to get water. No electricity, but not computers or internet, cell phones, etc either. At that time transistor radios were pretty much state of the art.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Okay, I'll give it a shot, but my paint skills are totally horrible!







My attempt for the giveaway (and obviously interested in the orange shrouds!)


Was the best image I could find. For some reason the Cryorig website doesn't seem to have an actual top-down shot of the cooler.

Also, looking at the specs for my Frio Advanced, the R1 Ultimate is only 10mm wider, so there is a chance (once I find a dealer that will ship to Canada!) it will fit, since there's still a decent amount of clearance between my card and my CPU's current cooler.


----------



## Manxminx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *"Doyll*
> electricity, but not computers or internet, cell phones, etc either.


Yeah, we didn't get electricity until the 1950's. Last week they finally replaced our original 1952 Transformer and supply cable:



We can finally have a shower AND boil the kettle at the same time!









Still no cell phone coverage, nor what one would call Internet (we're in one of those 'not spots'








) But yes, pure heaven if one can cope with being 6 miles away from the nearest corner shop!

Ali.


----------



## TorokF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sepesusi*
> 
> I've ordered a product 2 times that were out of stock from _amazon.de_ and both times I was informed before the estimated availability date that they have it in stock and are ready to be sent. I don't know how well that correlates with the trustworthy of the estimates, but atleast I have positive experiences with them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got my R1 Universal from _alternate.de_, have you checked if they have it? Should be well under 100€ from there.


On both Alternate.de and Alternate.It it says that the date of shipping is unknown so i've sent them a mail asking wheter or not the product is available, I'll see it on monday what they'll answer me








Thanks

https://www.alternate.de/Cryorig/R1-Ultimate-CPU-K%C3%BChler/html/product/1120919?
https://www.alternate.it/Cryorig/R1-Ultimate/html/product/1120919?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Call Alternate.de. As far as I know they are the EU distributor.


Uhm I haven't really found out the contact number so I just filled in a mail with the format they give to customers, hopefully they'll answer me fast








It's been 2 weeks already as I'm struggling to get my hands on one!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manxminx*
> 
> Yeah, we didn't get electricity until the 1950's. Last week they finally replaced our original 1952 Transformer and supply cable:
> 
> 
> 
> We can finally have a shower AND boil the kettle at the same time!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still no cell phone coverage, nor what one would call Internet (we're in one of those 'not spots'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) But yes, pure heaven if one can cope with being 6 miles away from the nearest corner shop!
> 
> Ali.


Great reminiscing with you. I grew up in the country. Went to town once a week .. for church. Went for groceries every couple of weeks and on occasion would see a movie.







Finally got a telephone with 9 other people on same "party" line. Definitely no privacy .. we usually knew when someone else was listening in because the volume of our conversations would be lower .. and we knew who the couple of people who would listen in were, would tell them to get off the phone and hear the volume come back.








We raised almost all of our food except sugar, salt, coffee, and the like. Had a storeroom that in the fall of each year had 2 years of canned goods and a root cellar for poatatoes, cabbage, carrots, apples, etc. It may sound complicated, but live was so much simpler then.

Sorry for the hi-jack


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TorokF*
> 
> On both Alternate.de and Alternate.It it says that the date of shipping is unknown so i've sent them a mail asking wheter or not the product is available, I'll see it on monday what they'll answer me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> https://www.alternate.de/Cryorig/R1-Ultimate-CPU-K%C3%BChler/html/product/1120919?
> https://www.alternate.it/Cryorig/R1-Ultimate/html/product/1120919?
> Uhm I haven't really found out the contact number so I just filled in a mail with the format they give to customers, hopefully they'll answer me fast
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's been 2 weeks already as I'm struggling to get my hands on one!


I guess







Steve needs to crack the whip and get their "slow boat from Taiwan" moving faster.


----------



## Shneiky

@TorokF

It took 17 days for my R1 Ultimate to arrive from alternate.nl. Also, when the R1 ones get in stock, they get sold quite quickly. I mean, it is 64 EUR (it is 69 now I think) and gives you performance of a 80+ EUR Noctua or Thermalright or Phanteks. Definitely a good deal.


----------



## Aluc13

Agreed that it is a good deal.


----------



## doyll

Started playing with this today. And as I hadn't posted a pic of my R1 Ultimate, I canned up some colored shrouds for it here. Wife loves purple. Debating doing the motherboard too.


She likes lots of wheels too.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Started playing with this today. And as I hadn't posted a pic of my R1 Ultimate, I canned up some colored shrouds for it here. Wife loves purple. Debating doing the motherboard too.
> 
> 
> She likes lots of wheels too.


Maybe you need to get her one of these:


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Maybe you need to get her one of these:


I'm sure she would love it.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Just measured it. Its 70mm from the center of the CPU to the first PCIe slot, and 53mm from the center of the CPU to the first RAM slot.


70mm would be dead right next to the R1's（Both) plastic shrouds.


----------



## doyll

Good afternoon Steve!









When will cooler be available again in EU?


----------



## Nopileus

Had no time to take a new Picture but i want in on that draw *cough*
I feel dirty already


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I guess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Steve needs to crack the whip and get their "slow boat from Taiwan" moving faster.










Actually what our European friends are seeing here is a global shortage of supply, not just Germany. Beginning in September we had the opportunity to double our country reach (our ship is getting close to the UK







) and with extra demand from existing markets like Germany and Japan, we're just struggling to keep up. If anyone here needs immediate access to products, you guys can PM me and I'll figure something out, help find where you can get them etc.

So it's good and bad news for us here at team CRYORIG, demand is high GOOD! But supply is low....Not so Good. Hopefully the shortage will end soonish.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Good afternoon Steve!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When will cooler be available again in EU?


UK is getting some good stock soon.
Poland has fresh stock while it lasts.
Stocks in Spain are drying up.
Germany...Still a good month away... I'll see if I can do anything about the situation.
If anyone is in dire need of a CRYORIG, PM me I'll find one for you.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Started playing with this today. And as I hadn't posted a pic of my R1 Ultimate, I canned up some colored shrouds for it here. Wife loves purple. Debating doing the motherboard too.
> 
> 
> She likes lots of wheels too.


Hate to burst your bubble.... but purple is not an available prize color. But this is a valid entry. We do have blue though... lol


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Hate to burst your bubble.... but purple is not an available prize color. But this is a valid entry. We do have blue though... lol


LOL. No problem mate. As much as I like colored shrouds I have no real need for them right now.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> UK is getting some good stock soon.
> Poland has fresh stock while it lasts.
> Stocks in Spain are drying up.
> Germany...Still a good month away... I'll see if I can do anything about the situation.
> If anyone is in dire need of a CRYORIG, PM me I'll find one for you.


Glad to hear how good your sales are.








Just shows how much potential there is for great products with great customer support. Hopefully supply will catch up to demand soon.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Okay, I'll give it a shot, but my paint skills are totally horrible!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My attempt for the giveaway (and obviously interested in the orange shrouds!)
> 
> 
> Was the best image I could find. For some reason the Cryorig website doesn't seem to have an actual top-down shot of the cooler.
> 
> Also, looking at the specs for my Frio Advanced, the R1 Ultimate is only 10mm wider, so there is a chance (once I find a dealer that will ship to Canada!) it will fit, since there's still a decent amount of clearance between my card and my CPU's current cooler.


Based on your board layout, you'll have a good 3~4mm of space between the GPU card and the R1.


----------



## Steve-S

Entries are a bit low : \

Here's my new ITX build with the C1 I did last week!

Of course I won't be entering the drawing. But common people!!! Time to show your RIGs!!!


----------



## TorokF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> UK is getting some good stock soon.
> Poland has fresh stock while it lasts.
> Stocks in Spain are drying up.
> Germany...Still a good month away... I'll see if I can do anything about the situation.
> If anyone is in dire need of a CRYORIG, PM me I'll find one for you.


PM delivered o kind sir.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TorokF*
> 
> PM delivered o kind sir.


For some strange reason I figured you would be PM'ing Steve.









Just noticed alternate.be show R1 Ultimate in stock.
http://www.alternate.be/Cryorig/R1-Ultimate-Actieve-CPU-koeler/html/product/1120919?event=search


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Been away for the last few days, waiting until I came home to do a bit of re-organisation and take some new pics, not much window for daylight here in the Nord either.. Anyway here we go, my humble entry rig from 3 gratuitous angles.


----------



## TorokF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> For some strange reason I figured you would be PM'ing Steve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just noticed alternate.be show R1 Ultimate in stock.
> http://www.alternate.be/Cryorig/R1-Ultimate-Actieve-CPU-koeler/html/product/1120919?event=search


It does indeed! I'll wait for an answer from Steve and possibly order from them








Time is of the essence ;D

P.S. Fail, Alternate.be doesn't ship to Italy, just got their e-mail saying so


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Based on your board layout, you'll have a good 3~4mm of space between the GPU card and the R1.


That's what @doyll was thinking as well, so I'm glad to hear confirmation from you. I should only have to wait a few more weeks until there's some spare money to pick one up, and I'm looking forward to such because I want the "take no prisoners" attitude (and especially looks!) that the Cryrig R1 Ultimate has ^_^


----------



## Manxminx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Glad to hear how good your sales are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just shows how much potential there is for great products with great customer support. Hopefully supply will catch up to demand soon.


Yes, wonderful news, especially for a young company such as Cryorig. I can't wait to see what new products you'll have for us in the future. . . ..

Ali.


----------



## Manxminx

It's really good news that for such a young company, Cryorig products are in such big demand. As Doyll says, quality, attention to detail and great customer service at the right price ! I can't wait to see what new products you have lined up for us in the future.

Ali.


----------



## Aluc13

Please keep this up cryorig. I really like your customer service


----------



## 20TenGTS

Here's my photoshop of a cryorig ultimate R1 since I don't have my cryorig ultimate R1 in til Wednesday. Once I have it and finish my new X99 Build, I will post up pics of the Cryorig install. Going for a red and black theme. I know it's been done before and such, but my previous build had blue color. If I'm not lucky, I'm planning to paint my shroud with one of those Metallic Red spray can instead.


----------



## Dyaems

I wonder if the Cryorig R1 fits inside a Node 804 or an FT03 without hitting the side panel... Anyone knows?


----------



## Aluc13

Dude, the FT03 is 284mm the height of a R1 is like 168.3 or so that gives you almost 100mm of clearance. I think it will more than fit.

EDIT: Correction as I look at the pic it says clearance for 167mm. It's a weird looking case. I don't think it will in fact fit.


----------



## Dyaems

R1 fits inside an SG09/SG10, with a few mm of clearance to the side panel. According to the Silverstone website, the SG09/SG10 can only accomodate tower coolers up to 165mm. So I'm wondering if both Ft03 and Node 804 also have that magical extra clearance as well.


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> R1 fits inside an SG09/SG10, with a few mm of clearance to the side panel. According to the Silverstone website, the SG09/SG10 can only accomodate tower coolers up to 165mm. So I'm wondering if both Ft03 and Node 804 also have that magical extra clearance as well.


Well that could be because they company that makes the SG09/10 went conservative with their measurements. Some cases do that. Like mine is said to have 11mm of clearance for video cards but people have put 12mm cards. So...it is clearly up to the case manufacturer. They are probably the only ones that know or someone that has the case and the cryorig.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> I wonder if the Cryorig R1 fits inside a Node 804 or an FT03 without hitting the side panel... Anyone knows?


I think I have that exact case in the office, I'll try it out.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> Well that could be because they company that makes the SG09/10 went conservative with their measurements. Some cases do that. Like mine is said to have 11mm of clearance for video cards but people have put 12mm cards. So...it is clearly up to the case manufacturer. They are probably the only ones that know or someone that has the case and the cryorig.


Yeah, it's a bit hard for us too. Often case manufacturers don't supply the most accurate measurements, worse are they don't provide any info at all. We recently came out with a small tool to test your mobo/RAM/PCIE compatibility etc.

http://www.cryorig.com/news.php?id=26&page=1

I'll look into this to see if we can do something similar for case measurements.


----------



## Steve-S

Ah crap, we only have the Node 304 sorry @Aluc13


----------



## Dyaems

@Steve-S

No worries, it would be awesome as well if R1 fits inside a Node 304









And that origami tester is a brilliant idea! I should browse Cryorig website more often


----------



## Steve-S

Also.... So far only 9 have submitted entries to the ultra limited colored shroud drawing....


----------



## Aluc13

@Steve-S
How soon are 2011 v3 kits sent? And do you provide tracking numbers?


----------



## TorokF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> @Steve-S
> How soon are 2011 v3 kits sent? And do you provide tracking numbers?


Took around 5 days for mine, possibly less, no tracking number as it's sent through certified mail, atleast in my case, it was indeed ASAP


----------



## Nopileus

Mine had a tracking number, 5days is accurate.

@Steve-S
The Compatibility Tester is a great idea, i'm surprised this isn't more common in the industry.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Yeah, it's a bit hard for us too. Often case manufacturers don't supply the most accurate measurements, worse are they don't provide any info at all. We recently came out with a small tool to test your mobo/RAM/PCIE compatibility etc.
> 
> http://www.cryorig.com/news.php?id=26&page=1
> 
> I'll look into this to see if we can do something similar for case measurements.


What a great idea!









All that is needed to make it into a case tester is printing a second cooler & fan footprint and making side the height of cooler fin pack & fan .. a box the size of cooler & fan/s on top of what you already have.








Could get real fancy and have fans as separate boxes so they can be moved up & down to check RAM & case side cover clearance .. probably not needed.

Really is a cool idea! All cooler manufacturers should be doing it!


----------



## Manxminx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Also.... So far only 9 have submitted entries to the ultra limited colored shroud drawing....


Come on folks, submit your pics!









Ali.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Yeah, it's a bit hard for us too. Often case manufacturers don't supply the most accurate measurements, worse are they don't provide any info at all. We recently came out with a small tool to test your mobo/RAM/PCIE compatibility etc.
> 
> http://www.cryorig.com/news.php?id=26&page=1
> 
> I'll look into this to see if we can do something similar for case measurements.


That's an ingenious tool!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Also.... So far only 9 have submitted entries to the ultra limited colored shroud drawing....


Awww, was hoping for more as well but I have to playfully say "ooooh, I like those odds!"


----------



## Aluc13

This tool needs to be standard. Great thinking cryorig.
Damn I was hoping it wouldn't take too long. Got my build just sitting there


----------



## Steve-S

@Dyaems

Photos!

The R1 Universal fits! But I had to take out the back system fan on the Node 304.











I wouldn't recommend the Ultimate though, the fan will likely hit the screw knobs of the HDD carriage things.


----------



## pnkrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> @Dyaems
> 
> The R1 Universal fits! But I had to take out the back system fan on the Node 304.
> 
> I wouldn't recommend the Ultimate though, the fan will likely hit the screw knobs of the HDD carriage things.


Just for the sake of keeping it Cryorig, would a XT140 fit in the rear fan location?


----------



## Malik

Cryorig C1 is waiting


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> @Dyaems
> 
> Photos!
> 
> The R1 Universal fits! But I had to take out the back system fan on the Node 304.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't recommend the Ultimate though, the fan will likely hit the screw knobs of the HDD carriage things.


Looks about perfect


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> @Dyaems
> 
> Photos!
> 
> The R1 Universal fits! But I had to take out the back system fan on the Node 304.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't recommend the Ultimate though, the fan will likely hit the screw knobs of the HDD carriage things.


Wow, that is amazing! I mean, most (if not, all) twin tower coolers are unable to mount any fan at the front of the tower, only at the middle and rear, the R1 is an exception, thanks for the slim fans. Other twin tower coolers can do that as well, but will end up spending more.









Also, thank you for taking the time to try the R1 inside a Node 304 +rep


----------



## ILLmatik94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Also.... So far only 9 have submitted entries to the ultra limited colored shroud drawing....


Bummer. A little late but perhaps I can be the 10th?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Wow, that is amazing! I mean, most (if not, all) twin tower coolers are unable to mount any fan at the front of the tower, only at the middle and rear, the R1 is an exception, thanks for the slim fans. Other twin tower coolers can do that as well, but will end up spending more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, thank you for taking the time to try the R1 inside a Node 304 +rep


I don't know of any other twn towers with as much setback as the R1s'. HE01 is set back but still 47mm center CPU to front of cooler .. about the same as R1 Universal with fan.


----------



## Manxminx

Yes, wow, the R1 Universal could have been made for the Node 304. An XT140 might just fit at the back if one breathes in, but it'll be tight. Even if it doesn't, Node 304 air users need look no further for a CPU cooler









Ali.


----------



## Steve-S

OK, the colored shroud event is officially over now!
We will announce the winner next week!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> OK, the colored shroud event is officially over now!
> We will announce the winner next week!


Sooo can't wait!


----------



## Aluc13

I have been real busy with family so I couldn't do the contest. Good luck to the possible winner!


----------



## AlphaC

They're on Newegg now

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UF1H80571&cm_re=cryorig-_-9SIA4UF1H80571-_-Product
CRYORIG XF140

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UF1H80572&cm_re=cryorig-_-9SIA4UF1H80572-_-Product
CRYORIG XT140

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UF1H68938&cm_re=cryorig-_-9SIA4UF1H68938-_-Product
CRYORIG R1 Ultimate


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Pity there aren't any on Newegg.ca....


----------



## Aluc13

So, is it possible to start the CPU cooler installation without the 2011-v3 kit? Cause I don't even know if all the components work and I don't have much time to build as I have school and work and I don't want the 30 days to expire. Its been a week or 2 already.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> So, is it possible to start the CPU cooler installation without the 2011-v3 kit? Cause I don't even know if all the components work and I don't have much time to build as I have school and work and I don't want the 30 days to expire. Its been a week or 2 already.


Did you contact Cryorig customer support and give them a copy of your invoice and address so they could send you the 2011-v3 kit? They usually arrive in 3-6 days.


----------



## Aluc13

Yes, I have contacted them. It still hasn't moved from customs. It's been there for 3 days.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> Yes, I have contacted them. It still hasn't moved from customs. It's been there for 3 days.


I hate customs!


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I hate customs!


I'm starting to hate them as well. They have had it for 3 days there and I have no idea when they will be done with it. I need to see if everything will install okay and I'm running out of time for returns or refunds.


----------



## TorokF

Just got my brand new R1 Ultimate from Amazon.fr, lightning speed as usual from them, unfortunately my brother haven't come home yet with my motherboard for it so I won't assemble before the weekend comes, will post pictures asap, the package and conditions were perfect, can't wait to have it up and running!

Thanks everyone that helped me, especially Steve and the Cryorig customer support team!


----------



## Elrick

Hi everyone here in the Air Cooler section I have just one question here;

Would anyone know precisely if the CRYORIG R1 Ultimate Dual Tower Heatsink will fit into a Silverstone Fortress FT03B case ?

Would like to know before forking out the money on this supreme cooler, which I hope will fit but who knows....... please let me know.


----------



## 20TenGTS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> I'm starting to hate them as well. They have had it for 3 days there and I have no idea when they will be done with it. I need to see if everything will install okay and I'm running out of time for returns or refunds.


I got my in 7 days, Ask for it on Wednesday and was delivery the next Wednesday. Regarding the install, it will install, but it's not a good idea. From the look of it when I try(had the same question as you), the screw that comes with the R1 is longer so it will make the Cooler sit higher. Meaning the heatsink may not be contacting the cpu to transfer heat. After installing it with the correct screw on. My 5820k and running prime95 27.9, my temp got up to 78c at 4.1ghz/1.60 vcore. 85c at 4.2ghz/1.20vcore. 91c at 4.3ghz/1.25vcore.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> I'm starting to hate them as well. They have had it for 3 days there and I have no idea when they will be done with it. I need to see if everything will install okay and I'm running out of time for returns or refunds.


I would carefully shorten the pillar screw thread with a file .. but I have the experience to do things like this. I am in no way suggesting you do this.










The difference in barrel length doesn't seem to be an issue as other cooler companies are not changing it. But if you do file your 2011-v1 barrel stud threads down, be careful when tightening cooler .. and remember the cross bar spring screws need only be screwed in until they stop. They turn very easily with all the leverage the 'L' handle of supplied screwdriver gives it is very easy to twist too hard and bread them .. several people have done it thinking they were not tight enough and trying to tighten just a little more.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The difference in barrel length doesn't seem to be an issue as other cooler companies are not changing it. But if you do file your 2011-v1 barrel stud threads down, be careful when tightening cooler .. and remember the cross bar spring screws need only be screwed in until they stop. They turn very easily with all the leverage the 'L' handle of supplied screwdriver gives it is very easy to *twist too hard and bread them* .. several people have done it thinking they were not tight enough and trying to tighten just a little more.


Well, that would certainly get everything all caked up......


----------



## Aluc13

I think I'll just wait. Hopefully there will be news soon.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elrick*
> 
> Hi everyone here in the Air Cooler section I have just one question here;
> 
> Would anyone know precisely if the CRYORIG R1 Ultimate Dual Tower Heatsink will fit into a Silverstone Fortress FT03B case ?
> 
> Would like to know before forking out the money on this supreme cooler, which I hope will fit but who knows....... please let me know.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1174563/official-silverstone-ft03-ft03-mini-owners-club/1780_20#post_22505503

I have not seen R1 Ultimate in FT03B, but have seen NH-D14 in one. R1 Ultimate w/fans flush to top of shrouds is 165x141x144mm and NH-D14 is 160x140x158mm w/ fan (HxWxD).

Interesting that I was just working on R1 Ultimate drawing setting fans at maximum and minimum height to see what the minimum and maximum RAM height is. .


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pnkrs*
> 
> Just for the sake of keeping it Cryorig, would a XT140 fit in the rear fan location?


I tried, but it didn't fit. But with the back of the R1 Universal so close to the exhaust, I would assume that hot air would exit without problem.


----------



## Aluc13

@doyll
@steve-s
So, is it possible to use the included screws and wait for the other kit later? Then change it out? Cause not sure how much longer they will have it at customs.


----------



## Steve-S

Hi Aluc13,

Sorry to hear that customs are doing this to you......
Yeah, basically the only difference between the screws is the length of the thread for the Intel ILM stud. @doyll measurements are correct. Pay attention that the side you should be making short is the one with M4 threads (4mm diameter) the other side that goes into our mounting kit is around 3.5mm which is a bit thinner.


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Hi Aluc13,
> 
> Sorry to hear that customs are doing this to you......
> Yeah, basically the only difference between the screws is the length of the thread for the Intel ILM stud. @doyll measurements are correct. Pay attention that the side you should be making short is the one with M4 threads (4mm diameter) the other side that goes into our mounting kit is around 3.5mm which is a bit thinner.


I am sorry as well as my new build is sitting there and I want to be sure all the components will work correctly.
Ah okay. So, is the only way I can mount it is the filing solution or can it be mounted without having to file it?


----------



## Steve-S

Thank you all for participating!

And the random draw winner is...... @Slink3Slyde!

PM me your mailing info!


----------



## 20TenGTS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for participating!
> 
> And the random draw winner is...... @Slink3Slyde!
> 
> PM me your mailing info!


So is that it or there's one more winner still to be announce. From the sound of it, that's it. But you mention two winner when you did the contest.


----------



## ILLmatik94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for participating!
> 
> And the random draw winner is...... @Slink3Slyde!
> 
> PM me your mailing info!


Grats @Slink3Slyde and nice rig







. What color shroud did you pick?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *20TenGTS*
> 
> So is that it or there's one more winner still to be announce. From the sound of it, that's it. But you mention two winner when you did the contest.


Curious as well.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Thanks man







I asked for the blue ones, I'll put a pic up when I get them. I also thought there were two winners coming, I was kind of waiting too.

My thanks to Cryorig and Steve-S for the opportunity, I'm really chuffed to win!


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *20TenGTS*
> 
> So is that it or there's one more winner still to be announce. From the sound of it, that's it. But you mention two winner when you did the contest.


Ah crap, you guys caught me. I was going to keep one for myself, lol.

Yeah, it totally slipped my mind. I will re-run our random pick program in a bit.


----------



## Aluc13

Hey Steve, i managed to get a hold of customs but they wouldnt give me detailed tracking information. They said that you guys need to call them and request it...never heard of this before. It is real annoying as this is my second week without any clue of where the kit is and what the hold up is.


----------



## Steve-S

Drum roll please!....
The second winner is @WhiteWulfe!!
Remember to send in your PM of color and a valid mailing address!

Also, a little inside info for everyone here. If you haven't already, register your products RIGHT NOW!!!
We'll be soon announcing a global drawing for registered VIP members, of course the more CRYORIG products you have registered the higher the chance you'll get to win. We'll be sending out information to media outlets soon. And the invitation will go out to users through your registered email account.

No joke the prize we have ready is absolutely gorgeous. We actually only have one ever made, and I'm not sure if we'll ever make another or if we ever will mass produce this beauty.

Stay tuned

Also, the H5 is in the USA!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UF1W87430&ignorebbr=1


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> Hey Steve, i managed to get a hold of customs but they wouldnt give me detailed tracking information. They said that you guys need to call them and request it...never heard of this before. It is real annoying as this is my second week without any clue of where the kit is and what the hold up is.


We'll just send another kit to you. Postal+Customs are a too time consuming, and we can't get any more info out of our tracking info. Sad day for modern logistics and mail service.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Drum roll please!....
> The second winner is @WhiteWulfe!!
> Remember to send in your PM of color and a valid mailing address!
> 
> Also, a little inside info for everyone here. If you haven't already, register your products RIGHT NOW!!!
> We'll be soon announcing a global drawing for registered VIP members, of course the more CRYORIG products you have registered the higher the chance you'll get to win. We'll be sending out information to media outlets soon. And the invitation will go out to users through your registered email account.
> 
> No joke the prize we have ready is absolutely gorgeous. We actually only have one ever made, and I'm not sure if we'll ever make another or if we ever will mass produce this beauty.
> 
> Stay tuned
> 
> Also, the H5 is in the USA!
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UF1W87430&ignorebbr=1


OMG OMG OMG OMG WOOOOOHOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!! Pm is totally incoming!

EDIT: Once again, many thanks for running this contest!


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Also, a little inside info for everyone here. If you haven't already, register your products RIGHT NOW!!!
> We'll be soon announcing a global drawing for registered VIP members, of course the more CRYORIG products you have registered the higher the chance you'll get to win. We'll be sending out information to media outlets soon. And the invitation will go out to users through your registered email account.
> 
> No joke the prize we have ready is absolutely gorgeous. We actually only have one ever made, and I'm not sure if we'll ever make another or if we ever will mass produce this beauty.


I bet this is the price










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Grats to the winners! I want an L-type screwdriver as consolation prize j/k


----------



## WhiteWulfe

That bonus totally can't come soon enough now, and then my cooler will not only look insanely epic, but I can't wait to see what it will do for HWBot submissions ^_^

EDIT: By bonus, I mean the bonus at work ^_^;;;;


----------



## Sepesusi

Weren't you the one who really wanted to win one of those shrouds anyways, WhiteWulfe?







I guess the draw went to the right persons!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sepesusi*
> 
> Weren't you the one who really wanted to win one of those shrouds anyways, WhiteWulfe?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess the draw went to the right persons!


Yup. Ever since I found out about the Cryorig R1's I've wanted to get my paws on one of their coolers (especially the Ultimate), and those deliciously orange shrouds are totally icing on the cake! So can't wait to see it in my rig ^_^


----------



## Sepesusi

Don't forget to post pictures when you get it set up!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sepesusi*
> 
> Don't forget to post pictures when you get it set up!


I'll do my best. I'll have to figure out something to get slightly better lighting though, but I definitely intend on taking pictures ^_^


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> I bet this is the price
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grats to the winners! I want an L-type screwdriver as consolation prize j/k


Yeah.

Would love to have an AF41. Would have to use it on a bench. I got a pic of one in a Define R2 with back of case cut out so it would fit in early April, but haven't see or heard any more about it.


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yeah.
> 
> Would love to have an AF41. Would have to use it on a bench. I got a pic of one in a Define R2 with back of case cut out so it would fit in early April, but haven't see or heard any more about it.


I bet it would look good inside an FT03 (no photoshop on my office computer sadly







)


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> We'll just send another kit to you. Postal+Customs are a too time consuming, and we can't get any more info out of our tracking info. Sad day for modern logistics and mail service.


Thanks, yes it is a sad day for mailing service. I can't believe with all our advanced technology something like mail has been slow moving and hasn't found a more efficient way to track


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> We'll just send another kit to you. Postal+Customs are a too time consuming, and we can't get any more info out of our tracking info. Sad day for modern logistics and mail service.


Another example of of the great customer service we get from Cryorig.









Thanks Steve


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Another example of of the great customer service we get from Cryorig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Steve


Agreed, I really will continue to use Cryorig's products as I believe their customer service to be exceptional.


----------



## Steve-S

Lol,

Not the AF41, we're saving that for next April AF41 Rev.2015.

It's something else!


----------



## TorokF

I maaaaaaaaaaaaaade it!!!! Thanks everyone in the thread









The pic IS GODAWFUL, but damn I don't have a good photocamera in my hands yet... Bear with me









Cheers!


----------



## InHartWeTrust

I am looking to get the CRYORIG R1 Universal but before I pull the trigger on the purchase I'd like to confirm that my other hardware will all fit with it.

For my upcoming build, here is what I am working with:


MSI Z97-GAMING 5 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-motherboard-z97gaming5
G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (note the 4 sticks here, this is my main concern) http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f314900cl8d8gbxm
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card (2-Way SLI) http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-video-card-gvn970g1gaming4gd
Corsair 750D ATX Full Tower Case http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-case-750d
Thanks in advance for the insight here, fellas.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Do you happen to have a printer, or access to one? Cryorig has made a compatibility tool that you can print off on the R1 Universal's product page (scroll down about 2/3rds or so of the way). That will help you find out in mere minutes ^_^


----------



## InHartWeTrust

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Do you happen to have a printer, or access to one? Cryorig has made a compatibility tool that you can print off on the R1 Universal's product page (scroll down about 2/3rds or so of the way). That will help you find out in mere minutes ^_^


All of my other hardware is in the mail on it's way here, but I will have to give that a shot once it all gets here. I'm pretty sure the R1 itself will fit fine into the full sized case and on the mobo (below), my main concern is since I have 4 sticks of ram...I can't figure out if that top stick will fit under the cut out or not


----------



## doyll

MSI-Z97 Gaming 5 has plenty of graphics card clearance.


R1 Universal clears both PCIe and RAM with no issues.


Even R1 Ultimate would fit, but front fan would be at maximum height.


Ripjaws X are 40mm tall.
Will fit just under fan of R1 Ultimate
40mm is about the tallest RAM that will fit, but it does fit.

750D has 180mm CPU clearance
No problems with fan over RAM fitting under side cover.
CPU clearance + 5mm = RAM + fan.
185mm > 40mm + 140mm


----------



## InHartWeTrust

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> MSI-Z97 Gaming 5 has plenty of graphics card clearance.
> 
> R1 Universal clears both PCIe and RAM with no issues.
> 
> Even R1 Ultimate would fit, but front fan would be at maximum height.
> 
> Ripjaws X are 40mm tall.
> Will fit just under fan of R1 Ultimate
> 40mm is about the tallest RAM that will fit, but it does fit.
> 
> 750D has 180mm CPU clearance
> No problems with fan over RAM fitting under side cover.
> CPU clearance + 5mm = RAM + fan.
> 185mm > 40mm + 140mm


Wow, incredibly helpful post. Thank you so much for the detailed breakdown and walk through there! R1 Universal it is for me


----------



## doyll

Glad to help. Cryorig makes great coolers as well as give us great customer support.


----------



## InHartWeTrust

For sure, seeing how great their CS has been in this thread finalized my decision that I was going to go with them.


----------



## thebto

What is the general consensus in being able to use an X99 motherboard and a video card with a backplate? I'm trying to figure out the spacing of the first PCI x.16, and whether it would be feasible to use or just move on to the next x16 to avoid any potential problems with the Ultimate.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebto*
> 
> What is the general consensus in being able to use an X99 motherboard and a video card with a backplate? I'm trying to figure out the spacing of the first PCI x.16, and whether it would be feasible to use or just move on to the next x16 to avoid any potential problems with the Ultimate.


About the same as x58 motherboards.








Like, how long is this piece of string?
X99 is an Intel chipset that supports Intel® Core™ i7 processors
in the LGA2011-v3 socket, not a motherboard layout configuration.
All depends on which X99 motherboard you plan to use.


----------



## thebto

That's the research I've just started on. I am still torn between an Asus, Gigabyte or MSI motherboard. Pretty much Asus the X99 Pro, MSI the X99S Gaming 7, and Gigabyte GA-X99-GAMING. Pretty much reliability out of the box being factor #1, as they all have similar features, so that is not much of an issue. After that just determining the spacing they have.


----------



## fr1s

Finally got mine picked up at the USA boarder







Nice to have one up at Great white north


----------



## doyll

Looks good in there.








How are the temps?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

I wonder if @doyll would
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr1s*
> 
> Finally got mine picked up at the USA boarder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice to have one up at Great white north


Looks good. I was going to ask who you ordered through, but I noticed at the last moment that you picked it up yourself at the border. They ~really~ need to get a Canadian distributor! Oh well, when I order one I guess I'll use a proxy service ^_^


----------



## timaishu

Im stuck between this an the phantek.


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Im stuck between this an the phantek.


They perform similar. So its up to either of the following:
1. If your case if it can fit 160mm or 168mm height
2. Motherboard won't hit anything.
3. RAM Height (except for R1 universal maybe)
4. What you like better in terms of appearance.


----------



## fr1s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks good in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How are the temps?


Temps are good. I have Amd 1090T over clocked at 4GHz and at idle its sitting at 29c


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> They perform similar. So its up to either of the following:
> 1. If your case if it can fit 160mm or 168mm height
> 2. Motherboard won't hit anything.
> 3. RAM Height (except for R1 universal maybe)
> 4. What you like better in terms of appearance.


Thanks,I have an antec 900 v3 and I might need to cut off the side fan clip, other than that anything should fit. My ram height is 40mm and from what I have read that will work for most of these large format coolers. I like the phantek cause its so beefy, but it looks so plain. I looks literally just like my current kingwin xt-1264 cooler, except there are effectively two of them back to back, and its a bit bigger. The R1 looks good aesthetically, but it seems like from what I have read that the phantek will be quieter. But I think anything will be an upgrade over my current cooler.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Thanks,I have an antec 900 v3 and I might need to cut off the side fan clip, other than that anything should fit. My ram height is 40mm and from what I have read that will work for most of these large format coolers. I like the phantek cause its so beefy, but it looks so plain. I looks literally just like my current kingwin xt-1264 cooler, except there are effectively two of them back to back, and its a bit bigger. The R1 looks good aesthetically, but it seems like from what I have read that the phantek will be quieter. But I think anything will be an upgrade over my current cooler.


Keep in mind 40mm RAM under a 140mm fan require sa CPU clearance of 185mm. Few cases have that much.


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Thanks,I have an antec 900 v3 and I might need to cut off the side fan clip, other than that anything should fit. My ram height is 40mm and from what I have read that will work for most of these large format coolers. I like the phantek cause its so beefy, but it looks so plain. I looks literally just like my current kingwin xt-1264 cooler, except there are effectively two of them back to back, and its a bit bigger. The R1 looks good aesthetically, but it seems like from what I have read that the phantek will be quieter. But I think anything will be an upgrade over my current cooler.


Not sure what the max height for CPU coolers of your case, but I would assume 170mm just like the other Antec 900s. As doyll said, you might require 185mm for the R1, but you _might_ get away with it if you used R1 universal instead.

I could be wrong though!


----------



## timaishu

Thanks guys, I will do some research if I can find the clearance my case has. I really don't feel like busting out a ruler haha.


----------



## doyll

R1 Universal with front fan will fit behind most RAM. Center CPU to front of fan is only 48.5mm


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> R1 Universal with front fan will fit behind most RAM. Center CPU to front of fan is only 48.5mm


Yeah I saw that too. I will look into that version as well, only concern is would the noise level increase using a thinner fan, Im sure that question has been asked a million times though. I will look through the thread.

EDIT: Hah, I just realized something, I don't even use my first ram slot, mine are dual channel but in the other pair of slots. Perhaps the Ultimate will work afterall. As long as it only covers the first slot, then I would have no problems as I will never fill that slot anyways. Time to research more ha.


----------



## Dyaems

I don't think dual channel works if you install both rams beside each other, its either slots 1/3 or 2/4 for dual channel to get it working. Not that dual channel has a huge difference on _daily_ tasks or gaming though.









XT140 (slim fan) is not really loud in my book, but sound is mostly subjective so...


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> I don't think dual channel works if you install both rams beside each other, its either slots 1/3 or 2/4 for dual channel to get it working. Not that dual channel has a huge difference on _daily_ tasks or gaming though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> XT140 (slim fan) is not really loud in my book, but sound is mostly subjective so...


Assuming slot 4 is closest to the CPU, I am only using slots 1 and 3. I thought the issue was only slot 4 being covered?

EDIT: Okay, I found a review that stated it covers (using my positioning example), slots 3 and 4. So it would still be a problem for me.

So I am pretty much stuck at the universal it looks like.


----------



## Dyaems

You'll _probably_ hear your 7950 over the XT140 at full load anyways


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> You'll _probably_ hear your 7950 over the XT140 at full load anyways


Haha your cheeky response just solidified my decision because you are totally right. Despite what HIS claims, this thing gets loud when loaded and over clocked. I'm gonna order it tonight.


----------



## Dyaems

I'm just copying other people's comments on other threads!


----------



## timaishu

I'm gonna wait a few days and see if a new egg discount code pops up. I have finals this week anyways so ordering now or next week won't make a difference. Its gonna total out to about a 100 dollars.


----------



## Manxminx

Quote:


> only concern is would the noise level increase using a thinner fan


As Doyll says, noise is subjective, but the thinner fan in the front of the R1 Universal makes no more noise than an ordinary quiet fan IMO. Mine runs at between off and minimum speed anyway, so basically noiseless. Heck I can run my Cryorig totally passively without any fans a lot of the time (web browsing, listening to music, watching films etc) It really is that good.

Other plus marks for the Cryorig are brilliant customer service, and excellent packaging and accessories.

Ali.


----------



## Manxminx

Hey, I just thought, I wonder how far I can push this R1 passively?

So I unplugged both fans, but left them in place. My MB is on an open bench so no airflow from case fans, no airflow at all. i7 4790 @ 4.5GHz @ 1.2 volts I ran the X264 benchmark.

Ambient temp 18.4 degress C. Idle CPU core temp 45 degrees C. After 4 passes of X264 CPU Core max was 79 degrees C. I could have gone for a 5th even 6th pass but erred on the side of caution. Anyways, I think I've proved my point!









I'd suggest that with fans taken off the R1 and the computer put in a case with good fan assisted airflow, it would be feasible to run the R1 passively if one didn't stress the CPU too much.

I'll repeat the experiment and report back once I've put it in a case (which might be in a couple of months!)

Ali.


----------



## doyll

Nice!

You would be surprised what it will do with just a middle fan on low speed.


----------



## InHartWeTrust

So, I have decided to change my RAM to 2x8GB sticks instead of 4x4GB...with only using 2 sticks, can I get high profile sticks and they will still fit under my R1 Universal? Is it possible to place the sticks in slots 2 and 4 and not even have to worry about clearance for the RAM under the fan?

In particular, this is the kit I am looking at:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231589&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=


----------



## Manxminx

Quote:


> You would be surprised what it will do with just a middle fan on low speed.


Yes, that's how I usually run it. Using the Gigabyte fan prog, I've set it so the first fan doesn't kick in until about 70 degrees C, so in practice, unless I'm benchmarking, it stays off with middle fan on lowest speed possible.

Fan noise just isn't an issue unless one is pushing the CPU.

Ali.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InHartWeTrust*
> 
> So, I have decided to change my RAM to 2x8GB sticks instead of 4x4GB...with only using 2 sticks, can I get high profile sticks and they will still fit under my R1 Universal? Is it possible to place the sticks in slots 2 and 4 and not even have to worry about clearance for the RAM under the fan?
> 
> In particular, this is the kit I am looking at:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231589&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=


What motherboard and case? Is this for your sig rig?


----------



## InHartWeTrust

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What motherboard and case? Is this for your sig rig?


Sorry, should've added that in my original post! The rig in my sig is my old one.

For the new build, I have a MSI Z97-GAMING 5 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard and Corsair 750D ATX Full Tower Case.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InHartWeTrust*
> 
> Sorry, should've added that in my original post! The rig in my sig is my old one.
> 
> For the new build, I have a MSI Z97-GAMING 5 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard and Corsair 750D ATX Full Tower Case.


Motherboard is 92mm center CPU to first x16 PCIe socket, There's an x4 70.5mm. RAM socket is 51mm from center CPU. I'm assuming the motherboard heatsinks will not interfere with cooler.


----------



## InHartWeTrust

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Motherboard is 92mm center CPU to first x16 PCIe socket, There's an x4 70.5mm. RAM socket is 51mm from center CPU. I'm assuming the motherboard heatsinks will not interfere with cooler.


Awesome, thank you!


----------



## doyll

No problem.
That means R1 Universal front fan will fit behind RAM.


----------



## InHartWeTrust

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No problem.
> That means R1 Universal front fan will fit behind RAM.


So RAM up front as normal and then the cooler will sit right behind it?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InHartWeTrust*
> 
> So RAM up front as normal and then the cooler will sit right behind it?


I wouldn't use the high heatspreader on the RAM. It's not needed and will restrict airflow and possibly more noise.


----------



## timaishu

Just placed my order for the universal.


----------



## Steve-S

I'm not sure if anybody else posted this on OCN yet.

In a gesture to thank the world wide PC community for the great support, CRYORIG is holding a total of two year-end giveaway events, with the grand prize being one 24 Karat Gold Plated R1 Ultimate CPU Cooler. At the end of the two separate events, CRYORIG will be handing out a total of 4 Special Edition heatsinks. The first event is opened only to CRYORIG VIP members, meaning members who have purchased and registered at least one CRYORIG product. One winner will be chosen after all entries end on December 31st, for a 24 Karat Gold Edition Gold Plated CRYORIG R1 Ultimate.

The second event is opened for all users worldwide, where they have the chance to win one of total 3 CRYORIG heatsinks with a model and color of their choice. Possible color combinations include: True Red, Deep Blue, Vibrant Orange and Fresh Green. The Chromatic Special Edition Heatsinks are designed to match color schemes from popular mainboard series. Application cutoff date also ends on midnight December 31st.

For more information on how to participate, please visit
http://www.cryorig.com/xmasactivity.php


----------



## Steve-S

Yes, we're giving out one gold plated R1 for VIP members!!!


----------



## Aluc13

Awesome thanks for this opportunity! Im defintely going to participate with this. Hope i win.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Obvious question for that giveaway: those who've won shrouds already, are we still able to enter the heatsink giveaway? ^_^


----------



## Dyaems

Of course. The shroud giveaway is mainly from OCN members, I think? I could be wrong though.


----------



## Manxminx

Gold shrouds? Wow!







My entry is in!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InHartWeTrust*
> 
> So RAM up front as normal and then the cooler will sit right behind it?


Obviously there's millions of combinations of Motherboards and RAM, but earlier in this thread I posted a pic of my MB and RAM with the R1 Universal:



Maybe others can post similar pics with different MB's/RAM so we can get a general idea of what clearances may look like in the flesh?

Ali.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Of course. The shroud giveaway is mainly from OCN members, I think? I could be wrong though.


Can't fault a guy trying for a second set so both rigs in my next project will have the same cooler and shrouds ^-^ My those are gorgeous with the r1!!!

@Manxminx when I get my R1 Ultimate I can take pics with the z87x-oc, although I don't know if they'll be with the motherboard out of the case or not. There's also a chance I might pick up an R1 Universal as well.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Can't fault a guy trying for a second set so both rigs in my next project will have the same cooler and shrouds ^-^ My those are gorgeous with the r1!!!
> 
> @Manxminx when I get my R1 Ultimate I can take pics with the z87x-oc, although I don't know if they'll be with the
> motherboard out of the case or not. There's also a chance I might pick up an R1 Universal as well.


Which is why I painted mine.









The gold plating is fantastic. Would love to have them.

Greed is not a virtue.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manxminx*
> 
> Gold shrouds? Wow!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My entry is in!
> Obviously there's millions of combinations of Motherboards and RAM, but earlier in this thread I posted a pic of my MB and RAM with the R1 Universal:
> 
> Maybe others can post similar pics with different MB's/RAM so we can get a general idea of what clearances may look like in the flesh?
> 
> Ali.


Intel boards generally follow a layout suggested by Intel - 77/87/97 all should be identical in a given form factor. Typically the same with AMD.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Which is why I painted mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The gold plating is fantastic. Would love to have them.
> 
> Greed is not a virtue.


If I somehow win a second set, so be it. If not, world doesn't end ^-^

Greed may not be a virtue but he sure was an awesome character in Full Metal Alchemist (can't remember if I liked him or not in Brotherhood). It isn't greed if you want the two to match! ^-^


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> If I somehow win a second set, so be it. If not, world doesn't end ^-^
> 
> Greed may not be a virtue but he sure was an awesome character in Full Metal Alchemist (can't remember if I liked him or not in Brotherhood). It isn't greed if you want the two to match! ^-^


You already have two. A front one and a back one.
















Just joking.


----------



## Aluc13

Question for Steve. Is there a point where i have to register. I havent gotten my build finished yet and was wondering if this diminishes the warranty/registration period. I think its about two or three weeks


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> Question for Steve. Is there a point where i have to register. I havent gotten my build finished yet and was wondering if this diminishes the warranty/registration period. I think its about two or three weeks


Nothing says you have to register. Only have to register if you want to enter the contest.









I would just go ahead and register your cooler. a 5 year warranty is long enough I seriously doubt a couple weeks will make any difference.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You already have two. A front one and a back one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just joking.


*laughs* Thay's a good one ^-^


----------



## timaishu

Just got my universal! Gotta say I am impressed with the packaging and how it was boxed and such. Seems like they really made an effort to pack it nicely. I mean for gods sake the registration card came wraped in a nice looking sealed sleeve/bag thing. Just ran prime95 small FFT test on my current cooler. 10 minutes overclocked at 4.8ghz with a vcore bump gave me 63c max, factory clocked I maxed at 41c. I will report back with new numbers once I have it al setup.


----------



## Aluc13

Ah okay. I thought we had to register and become vips in order to join it.


----------



## timaishu

Just got it installed and am running p95 right now.

What a butt that was to install. So little room in my case. I had to plug in the fan wires first, and then I couldn't see what I was doing when trying to line it up as I couldn't see the top mount point. I ended up peering through my top fan. Hope I didn't mess up the TP too bad as it slid all over the place trying to line it up and the get it cranked down.

I am honestly shocked this thing fit. The heatsink clears, but the fans barely do.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> Ah okay. I thought we had to register and become vips in order to join it.


You have to be registered to enter the drawing.

But you do not have to register if you don't want to.

My point was I doubt registering now instead of 2 or 3 weeks from now and having 2 or 3 weeks longer warranty will make any difference.

@ timaishu

Sounds llke you didn't do a "practice" install without TIM to get the feel of how it would mount up.







Always a good idea t do so, especially when motherboard is already installed in the case.

00:35 here and waiting to hear how cool it's running.


----------



## timaishu

Okay guys here are the results. Ran P95 small FFT 10 minutes each test.

AMD 6350 - stock voltage, stock clocks: Kingwin XT-1264 = 41C //// Cryorig R1 Universal = 35C
AMD 6350 - +0.075 over stock vcore, 4.8ghz: Kingwin XT-1264 = 63c - 45/46DB //// Cryorig R1 Universal= 52C - Measured at 41/42 DB - phone app.

I have noticed a slight rattle with the small fan though. I don't notice it around 1200-1300rpm when under load, but when cruising at 900 I can hear it.

I have realized though that the rest of my case fans are quite noisy. Need to look into replacing them eventually. Overall though I am quite pleased. Under full load I CAN hear the fans, but its not nearly as bad as my old fan was. My old cooler would spool up to 3-4k in a desparate attempt to cool the cpu, the R1 went no higher that 1450rpm. With audio from a game it will be unnoticeable.


----------



## Dyaems

Try to reseat the XT140 and see if the rattle will go away. It has something to do between the shroud and the fan.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> Question for Steve. Is there a point where i have to register. I havent gotten my build finished yet and was wondering if this diminishes the warranty/registration period. I think its about two or three weeks


Anything before Dec. 31st is good. But 2~3 weeks out of 6 years is... Well, you can do it at the last minute if you like.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Obvious question for that giveaway: those who've won shrouds already, are we still able to enter the heatsink giveaway? ^_^


Hi yes and yes. And registered members can participate in both events! One for a custom colored full heatsink, and one for the Golden Edition R1 Ultimate!


----------



## hornetfish

I've been running a Thermalright 120 Ultra with a Yate Loon D12SL in an old Lian Li 201-A brushed aluminum server case/echo chamber with 5 more Yate Loon D12SLs as case fan for 8 years now. Recently upgraded from 2006-land to 2014 (SSD, etc), and chose the Cryorig R1 Ultimate to cool my 4690K/Asus z97-a mobo, 2x gigabyte G1 Gaming 970s combo. Got it Dec 9th. Haven't even begun to play with it due to pressing life issues but that Cryorig R1 is so quiet that when I come into the office, I keep reaching down to turn on my rig and then see it's already on. Wow.

From the pics here and on all the reviews, I thought the Ultimate was going to be heavy, but not really. I followed some earlier advice in this thread, removed the motherboard, (not that I had a choice with such an old case with no cut-out), did a practice mount, popped the middle fan, mounted the heatsink with ram in place then replaced middle fan and then put the mobo into the case. I use a big server case cause I'm old and have big hands and like the elbow room and have lots of space in my house for large rectangular objects.

I also removed two cosmetic case grills to increase airflow and let the motherboard software set the fans for now.

Everything went super smoothly and I'm thrilled with this cooler. It's gratifying when everything meets and exceeds expectation.

Once I get the time I'm going to start tweaking and ocing a little more, though I'm no serious overclocker by a long shot. Just can't believe how elegant and well-engineered the Cryorig is and had to chime in.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Hi yes and yes. And registered members can participate in both events! One for a custom colored full heatsink, and one for the Golden Edition R1 Ultimate!


Then I need to figure out how to fix my Chrome so that the share icon/links show up again. Had an addon I removed, and it apparently nuked those on me.


----------



## Steve-S

Welcome to club CRYORIG @hornetfish!
Glad to hear that you like the R1 Ultimate! We're holding an event for registered members right now (available globally). So remember to register your R1 and participate in the giveaway.

This thread/club is a real nice place for product discussion, with a bunch of helpful members. I pop in from time to time and do what I can to answer questions or help out.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Then I need to figure out how to fix my Chrome so that the share icon/links show up again. Had an addon I removed, and it apparently nuked those on me.


I have no idea how to help you on that. Probably you can use IE just for this occasion. But yeah... IE you know you're having a bad day when you have to resort to IE.


----------



## doyll

@hornetfish
Good to hear your story. 2006 to 2014 is a long time between upgrades!









I managed 7 years from Athlon XP to i7 920 (2003-2011) still doing the job no problem .. and a i7 980 system too. Wife has Athlon II X4 620 (2011) still going strong.


----------



## Manxminx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Try to reseat the XT140 and see if the rattle will go away. It has something to do between the shroud and the fan.


I got fan rattle as well, but as Doyll says, reseating it fixed the problem.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Just got my universal! Gotta say I am impressed with the packaging and how it was boxed and such. Seems like they really made an effort to pack it nicely. I mean for gods sake the registration card came wrapped in a nice looking sealed sleeve/bag thing.


Welcome to the Cryorig Club Timaisu







Yeah, a lot of manufacturers could learn a great deal from how Cryorig packs their products. And the whole registration procedure, from the included registration card to the website registration pages, absolutely brilliant. In contrast, registering my Gigabyte motherboard - well not an experience I'd want to repeat, despite it being a premium 'black edition'.

Manufacturers don't generally understand that presentation, attention to detail, and customer service are just as important as having a good product. Cryorig is a welcome exception to the rule.









Ali.


----------



## Aluc13

Need help with my installation the mounting bracket won't push through a type A retention on my motherboard any help?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> Need help with my installation the mounting bracket won't push through a type A retention on my motherboard any help?


Please explain "type A retintion."


----------



## Duvar

Hi guys,

i have a question, i bought the R1 Universal from a guy in a German Forum.
He don t has the Registration Code. I am afraid of, what to do if any of the screws will break.
Can i hope for better screws if something happens via Cryorig support?
Would a picture with the cooler and a piece of paper with my name and date enough?
Proof of purchase will only be my writings with him at the german Forum...
If not, what kind of screws do i need to buy or search for?
The cooler will send to me tommorow, but i want to be on the safe side, if something "bad" happens.
Maybe no screw will broke apart, and i am praying that this will be the case








I would cry if something happens and i couldn t install the cooler because of missing screws.

Another thing is, if the front Fan is clackering, what can i do? He told me thats the case, any ways to solve that problem? Any recommendations for better fans? Don t want to loose Cooling Power, but more silent fans would be better.

Last thing 4 me to ask, i have a hot running 4770K on a Asus Z87 Pro, currently i am using a Thermalright HR-02 Macho Rev.A which is not bad, but i want to see if the cryorig will do better, what would you guess?

Sry for my bad english...

Thanks in advance and greetings from Germany









EDIT: He found the Registraion Code


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duvar*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> i have a question, i bought the R1 Universal from a guy in a German Forum.
> He don t has the Registration Code. I am afraid of, what to do if any of the screws will break.
> Can i hope for better screws if something happens via Cryorig support?
> Would a picture with the cooler and a piece of paper with my name and date enough?
> Proof of purchase will only be my writings with him at the german Forum...
> If not, what kind of screws do i need to buy or search for?
> The cooler will send to me tommorow, but i want to be on the safe side, if something "bad" happens.
> Maybe no screw will broke apart, and i am praying that this will be the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would cry if something happens and i couldn t install the cooler because of missing screws.
> 
> Another thing is, if the front Fan is clackering, what can i do? He told me thats the case, any ways to solve that problem? Any recommendations for better fans? Don t want to loose Cooling Power, but more silent fans would be better.
> 
> Last thing 4 me to ask, i have a hot running 4770K on a Asus Z87 Pro, currently i am using a Thermalright HR-02 Macho Rev.A which is not bad, but i want to see if the cryorig will do better, what would you guess?
> 
> Sry for my bad english...
> 
> Thanks in advance and greetings from Germany


Your English is fine.









Not having the warranty card or proof of purchase means they have no obligation to give you anything. But my guess is Cryorig will be very helpful if you have any problems. I wouldn't worry about breaking screws. Those that have broken are not the fault of the screw, but of the screwer .. the person twisting them too hard. The supplied 'L' handled screwdriver gives much more torque than a round screwdriver handle and the precision screws and threads work so well I can see how an inexperienced user could easily twist too hard and break them.

Most of the fan click problems are solved by taking off and re-mounting the fan.









Macho Rev. A is a good cooler, but R1 is better.


----------



## Duvar

Thanks for the reply, he found the registration code. I hope this will be enough.
Cant wait to get my R1 Universal








Maybe i can squeeze out 100-200MHz more from the CPU due to better temps.
Like i said, my 4770K is running hot and i need CRYO POWER.
89°C max Package Temp ist too much...
Prime Version 27.9


----------



## Aluc13

Type A is hard to describe. I saw it a couple pages back. Basically has a socket plate already on in. With it already mounted and only needed the mounting screws.

Forgot to add but is high 30s good or not. Motherboard is at low 30. Cpu with no overclock is at 32-40


----------



## Sepesusi

@Duvar

Yes, don't worry about screws breaking. When installing the cooler, just follow the instructions (they are very clear) and when you screw the spring screws, stop twisting immediately when it comes to a stop. Also do the screws bit by bit and evenly, so that the cooler stays in level and doesn't lean to either side. I broke my screw and it was because I didn't realize how much torque the supplied screwdriver gives due to being L-shaped. The cooler is very easy to install correctly, just have to be careful not to use too much force. Sense beats force.


----------



## Duvar

Thanks for your help, i read the whole Thread, i think it will work. I will keep you updated if and how much better the results with the cryorig are.


----------



## Aluc13

Also, install it before you put in motherboard. Makes it easier. Oh and don't forget to install ram first. Luckily mine fit as my motherboard needs it in 1,3 and 7,5


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> Type A is hard to describe. I saw it a couple pages back. Basically has a socket plate already on in. With it already mounted and only needed the mounting screws.
> 
> Forgot to add but is high 30s good or not. Motherboard is at low 30. Cpu with no overclock is at 32-40


Like I said, have no idea what you are talking about with "Type A" .. and if you cna't even discribe it how can we know what you are on about.







I'm total confused.

Is this your Sig rig? What CPU socket are you using? Do you mean LGA 201-v1, LGA 2011-v2, LGA 2011-v3?


----------



## doyll

Do yourself a favor and do a "practice" install without any paste. Only takes a few minutes and makes it so much easier when you actually do install with TIM.


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Like I said, have no idea what you are talking about with "Type A" .. and if you cna't even discribe it how can we know what you are on about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm total confused.
> 
> Is this your Sig rig? What CPU socket are you using? Do you mean LGA 201-v1, LGA 2011-v2, LGA 2011-v3?


it's socket LGA 2011-v3. Its Okay, I figured out what to do, sorry my first time building on my own.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> it's socket LGA 2011-v3. Its Okay, I figured out what to do, sorry my first time building on my own.


You have the special LGA 2011-v3 screw pillar set?
Or did you shorten the included LGA 2011-v1/v2 screw pillar threads?


----------



## Aluc13

I have the 2011-v3 set. What i meant was that there was a metal backplate that is non removable from my motherboard. And i was wondering if i should just screw it onto that instead of using the cryorig cooler mounting bracket. I just wound up using the preinstalled one. It is shaped like a wider X.


----------



## doyll

2011 use the backplate that comes on motherboard
2011 v1/v2 us included mounting pillar screws
2011 v3 ues pillar screws with shorter threaded end going into motherboard mount.


----------



## Aluc13

Ah alright. So it basically was that what i did was install the screws on the backplate that came with motherboard.


----------



## attackcenter

It's strange that I am having such a hard time confirming z97 motherboard compatibility with the R1 Ultimate. The Cryorig website only shows compatibility with the z87 motherboard, but I am suspicious that this list is not being properly updated.

1. Will Cryorig R1 Ultimate fit the Asus z97 deluxe motherboard with bluetooth/ac wifi?

2. Will the Cryorig R1 Ultimate with three fans fit the Asus z97 deluxe motherboard with bluetooth/ac wifi? + Are all the hardware included with the r1 Ultimate to do a three fan setup?

3. I have a Corsair 750t case, Asus z97 deluxe motherboard with bluetooth/ac wifi, and low profile Crucial Lp tactical memory, will I be a able to use the R1 Ultimate with 3 fans in this configuration?

Thanks.


----------



## Manxminx

Doyll, it may be an idea for you to edit your first post in this thread to include important information and diagrams of measurements etc. As this thread heads towards 800 posts, such important info gets buried and harder to find.

Ali.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *attackcenter*
> 
> It's strange that I am having such a hard time confirming z97 motherboard compatibility with the R1 Ultimate. The Cryorig website only shows compatibility with the z87 motherboard, but I am suspicious that this list is not being properly updated.
> 
> 1. Will Cryorig R1 Ultimate fit the Asus z97 deluxe motherboard with bluetooth/ac wifi?
> 
> 2. Will the Cryorig R1 Ultimate with three fans fit the Asus z97 deluxe motherboard with bluetooth/ac wifi? + Are all the hardware included with the r1 Ultimate to do a three fan setup?
> 
> 3. I have a Corsair 750t case, Asus z97 deluxe motherboard with bluetooth/ac wifi, and low profile Crucial Lp tactical memory, will I be a able to use the R1 Ultimate with 3 fans in this configuration?
> 
> Thanks.


1. Yes
2. Yes and "yes except for the third fan".
3. Yes


----------



## attackcenter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> 1. Yes
> 2. Yes and "yes except for the third fan".
> 3. Yes


1. What would make the 3rd fan option not fit? Is it my case or my motherboard?
2, What other kits would support the 3rd fan option for my configuation (Phanteks PH-TC14PE, Thermalrght SilverArrow SB-E Extreme, etc)?
3. Will the R1 universal with 3 fans support my configuration? if so which fan would you use as the third fan?
4. Why are many people on this forum using the r1 universal instead of the r1 ulitmate? Just for the looks because of more clearance? Is that worth it to them for a cooling performance drop?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manxminx*
> 
> Doyll, it may be an idea for you to edit your first post in this thread to include important information and diagrams of measurements etc. As this thread heads towards 800 posts, such important info gets buried and harder to find.
> 
> Ali.


Work with me.
Organize some of the things you want in first post and I'll put them in it.

My forum experience over the years has shown me that most users wil not search out the information, they just ask questions. That is why I haven't spent hours putting together a detailed Q & A and motherboards with cooler overlays together. They will just ask their question instead of looking and reading the reasons already posted. here and elsewhere.









Its like people calling store and hearing "Fizzle Frop's Market" and immediately asking "Is the Frizzle Frops?"


----------



## Aluc13

I'm loving the cooler. I had no installation issues. Seems to keep everything cool. Highest I've seen with regards to temp is 57C. That was with a game though. Otherwise it will barely hit 50.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *attackcenter*
> 
> 1. What would make the 3rd fan option not fit? Is it my case or my motherboard?
> 2, What other kits would support the 3rd fan option for my configuation (Phanteks PH-TC14PE, Thermalrght SilverArrow SB-E Extreme, etc)?
> 3. Will the R1 universal with 3 fans support my configuration? if so which fan would you use as the third fan?
> 4. Why are many people on this forum using the r1 universal instead of the r1 ulitmate? Just for the looks because of more clearance? Is that worth it to them for a cooling performance drop?


It fits in the build you listed with three fans. You just need to buy the third XF140 separately.


----------



## Steve-S

Merry Christmas to @WhiteWulfe and @Slink3Slyde



These are going out today!

Don't forget that everyone still has two chances over at:

http://www.cryorig.com/xmasactivity.php

GO THERE AND GET A GOLD R1!!!!!


----------



## Slink3Slyde

.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Merry Christmas to @WhiteWulfe and @Slink3Slyde
> 
> 
> 
> These are going out today!
> 
> Don't forget that everyone still has two chances over at:
> 
> http://www.cryorig.com/xmasactivity.php
> 
> GO THERE AND GET A GOLD R1!!!!!


Great news! cheers Steve-s


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Merry Christmas to @WhiteWulfe and @Slink3Slyde
> 
> 
> 
> These are going out today!
> 
> Don't forget that everyone still has two chances over at:
> 
> http://www.cryorig.com/xmasactivity.php
> 
> GO THERE AND GET A GOLD R1!!!!!


Wooohooooo, can't wait!


----------



## doyll

You guys do realize we all expect to see pics of these!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Pics are definitely something I'm looking forward to taking ^-^ ...And a nice looking cooler in my case. Gawds this Frio advanced is ugly.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Of course







I can't wait to get hold of the shrouds!


----------



## Aluc13

Congrats again guys. My temps under load (Dragon Age Inquisition ) are about 57 degrees and this is just with turbo to 3.6ghz. Is this a normal temp?
MSI x99s mpower
Corsair vengeance lpx 2666mHz 16GB
I7 5820k


----------



## Manxminx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *attackcenter*
> 
> 1. What would make the 3rd fan option not fit? Is it my case or my motherboard?
> 2, What other kits would support the 3rd fan option for my configuation (Phanteks PH-TC14PE, Thermalrght SilverArrow SB-E Extreme, etc)?
> 3. Will the R1 universal with 3 fans support my configuration? if so which fan would you use as the third fan?
> 4. Why are many people on this forum using the r1 universal instead of the r1 ulitmate? Just for the looks because of more clearance? Is that worth it to them for a cooling performance drop?


Just out of Interest, why do you feel the need for a third fan? The Cryorig barely needs two! (As I've posted previously, I can run mine with the fans turned off) As for the 'cooling performance drop' you make it sound as if it's a massive drop. It isn't, a couple of degrees maybe, and this drop can be reduced by running the fans faster.

As for the reason I use the Universal instead of the Ultimate, here's a pic I've posted previously on this thread showing the reason why:


Ali.


----------



## attackcenter

Yeah. I see what your saying, thats an"awesome clearance that you got". I can see how that would be worth it. Very clean and cool. Its a good balance.

It really depends on what you want. Of course many of us don't need that extra 1/2 to 1 degree cooling performance that comes with a 3rd fan option, but we will take it. Lol. Why not. Some of us just want the best.

What I like about the R1 Ultimate is the cooling performance, minimal noise, the installation is a snap (depending on your board and if you have low profile ram), and Cyrorig includes the clips for a 3 fan solution (unlike noctua)

My take is that when you use the Universal kit your cooling performance goes down to about the Noctua's NH-D14 (or sometimes to Noctua NH-D15) and you are probably having louder fans. The Noctua NH-D15 raised the bar on the cooling performance to the Phanteks level or better and is less loud. Phanteks has the advantage of switching out the fans and having a proven track record for high performance with their heatsink.

In a nut shell it depends on whether ram/motherboard clearance with a negligible (but still real) performance hit is most important or getting the absolute "coolest" cpu cooling solution.

Lol. I guess with building PCs there is a certain level of "perfectionism", depending where you set the bar...


----------



## Aluc13

I wish to join the club. Here is my R1 universal


----------



## magicase

I just bought the R1 Ultimate for my next build and friends PC. Will post pics when I pick them up this Friday


----------



## doyll

@ Aluc13
You are a member already. You became a member when you became interested in Cryorig coolers.









@ magicase
Congrats!. Good to see Australia has Cryorig products.


----------



## Sepesusi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *attackcenter*
> 
> My take is that when you use the Universal kit your cooling performance goes down to about the Noctua's NH-D14 (or sometimes to Noctua NH-D15) and you are probably having louder fans. The Noctua NH-D15 raised the bar on the cooling performance to the Phanteks level or better and is less loud. Phanteks has the advantage of switching out the fans and having a proven track record for high performance with their heatsink.


For me the Universal was the perfect cooler. It looks sleek and sexy, offers great cooling power and because of the combatibility, it should last for a good while while other components might change. I was looking at Phanteks at first, but their cooler was too huge. And Noctua's problem is that they have great coolers as long as you don't care what your rig looks like (unless you build the whole thing around the cooler). Then I learned of Cryorig through this thread and my search was over.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by attackcenter
> 
> My take is that when you use the Universal kit your cooling performance goes down to about the Noctua's NH-D14 (or sometimes to Noctua NH-D15) and you are probably having louder fans. The Noctua NH-D15 raised the bar on the cooling performance to the Phanteks level or better and is less loud. Phanteks has the advantage of switching out the fans and having a proven track record for high performance with their heatsink.


It's easier to change fans on the R1 than on the Phanteks. I've changes fans on both multiple times.








On R1 fan clips fit right onto fan


To change on 14PE requires modding or making pin for fan clips


----------



## Aluc13

Thanks, i wasn't sure if i was added or not. Loving the cooler so much on load its 50 degree's.


----------



## Dyaems

R1 and TY147 looks niiiice


----------



## doyll

Not bad!








TY-143's look good on 14PE too.


----------



## Duvar

Hi guys,

Quick Primerun: Macho Rev.A vs Cryorig R1 Universal.
The Cryorig destroyed the Thermalright Macho Rev.A
Here the results:





Thermal paste Macho run: Gelid Extreme
Thermal paste Cryorig run: CP9

So, yes the Cryorig is very good.

Greetings from Germany


----------



## doyll

Macho is good, but R1 is just better.


----------



## Shneiky

And after a month with the R1, I decided to post pictures as well. So, I can only be grumpy, that I was over saturated with work when the pool was in. Sad. Would have liked an Orange R1 cover (to fit my be quiet! stuff) or a red one (to go with the ASUS GTX and all the subtle glow). Sadly, the 4th picture is magenta instead of red, but please do excuse me for the bad camera.






So after a month of being with R1 Ultimate I can recap the experience.

Performance wise - could not be happier. 2700K at 4 GHz (going for more later when I have some spare time, aiming for 4.2 with 4.5 at 1 core active) at 1.1V - 52C at the hottest core.

I am happy that the R1 Ultimate is a little more compact than coolers from a comparable class. I can barely fir a finger between it and the top case fans, but that is enough to push the fan cables or touch the clips and unmount/mount the fans when I am cleaning it. I would have enjoyed an extra few centimeters on the single side of the Y splitter though, it barely goes behind the motherboard tray.

Noise wise - the lowest RMPs I could get out of my particular fans is 670 RPM. They just wont go lower. The fan BIOS needs some extra polishing for motherboard compatibility. I could only get to lowest fan speed when I use "Custom" in my Z77 Extreme6 BIOS which is a value between 1 and 255. I have set it to 1, but if I connect any other fan, those fan won't spin, since they require at least 103 to receive 5V and start spinning. 103 sends the R1 fans at 1000 or so RPM which is rather loud and this means my CPU FAN 2 header is not usable. So I am considering to get myself a fan controller for the 5 case fans and leave the R1 tied to the motherboard (now 3 fans are tied to the PSU, while other 2 are tied to the motherboard due to the fan header placing).

On the 4th picture - you are able to see how close the computer is to me. Very, very close. And at the place that I live, ambient noise in the evening is amazingly low. This makes the R1 stand out. It is a tad noisier than my HDD and my HDD is quite silent.

Visual wise - I love it. Looks far better in real than on pictures. Does do a nice fit with the Asrock Z77 Extreme heatsinks.

Overall - best dual tower design cooler for the price. If only the fans would go to 500 RPM - it would have been simply perfect, if perfection ever existed.


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> And after a month with the R1, I decided to post pictures as well. So, I can only be grumpy, that I was over saturated with work when the pool was in. Sad. Would have liked an Orange R1 cover (to fit my be quiet! stuff) or a red one (to go with the ASUS GTX and all the subtle glow). Sadly, the 4th picture is magenta instead of red, but please do excuse me for the bad camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after a month of being with R1 Ultimate I can recap the experience.
> 
> Performance wise - could not be happier. 2700K at 4 GHz (going for more later when I have some spare time, aiming for 4.2 with 4.5 at 1 core active) at 1.1V - 52C at the hottest core.
> 
> I am happy that the R1 Ultimate is a little more compact than coolers from a comparable class. I can barely fir a finger between it and the top case fans, but that is enough to push the fan cables or touch the clips and unmount/mount the fans when I am cleaning it. I would have enjoyed an extra few centimeters on the single side of the Y splitter though, it barely goes behind the motherboard tray.
> 
> Noise wise - the lowest RMPs I could get out of my particular fans is 670 RPM. They just wont go lower. The fan BIOS needs some extra polishing for motherboard compatibility. I could only get to lowest fan speed when I use "Custom" in my Z77 Extreme6 BIOS which is a value between 1 and 255. I have set it to 1, but if I connect any other fan, those fan won't spin, since they require at least 103 to receive 5V and start spinning. 103 sends the R1 fans at 1000 or so RPM which is rather loud and this means my CPU FAN 2 header is not usable. So I am considering to get myself a fan controller for the 5 case fans and leave the R1 tied to the motherboard (now 3 fans are tied to the PSU, while other 2 are tied to the motherboard due to the fan header placing).
> 
> Visual wise - I love it. Looks far better in real than on pictures. Does do a nice fit with the Asrock Z77 Extreme heatsinks.
> 
> Overall - best dual tower design cooler for the price. If only the fans would go to 500 RPM - it would have been simply perfect, if perfection ever existed.


Nice rig, man. Looks awesome. Off-topic what mouse do you have? Looks pretty slick? And what is that pad underneath the keyboard?

on-topic: I must agree with you. This cooler is one of the best I've ever had. my hottest core got to 50-57C. And that normally doesn't happen. Otherwise, it is on the low 50's with a turbo boost of like 3.6ghz. So, I am sure I can hit 4ghz on my i7 5820k. Was easy to install as well.


----------



## Shneiky

@ Aluc13,

Thank you. The mouse I use is a R.A.T. 7. I purchased it because I mainly do 3D modeling, rigging, some animation and other 3D work. The mouse has a very adjustable shape. I have fairly wide hands and if I grab a normal width mouse (like a Logitech or a Deathadder or an HP stock mouse) my hand skews in the middle. After 8-9 hours of modeling for example, I feel a lot of discomfort, fatigue and even pain. I bought the R.A.T 7 around 2 years ago and I made it as wide and as long as possible and it fits my hand amazingly well. Was well worth the 90 EUR. Though I have to say, sometimes - like in a week or so, the Philips sensor in the mouse will idle and fail to wake up unless the mouse is replugged or the computer restarted. Also, the thumb rest holder broke off (1 month after the warranty expired) at the pin so I had to fill it up with industrial glue. Overall, the comfort of the mouse is well worth the pesky little rodent's mischievous behavior, but I would not readily recommend it to a lot of people. If you get one that exhibits no problems - hold it and treat it well - you will not find a better mouse.

The "pad" under the keyboard is a Wacom Intous 4 M graphical tablet. I use it for most of my texture/matte painting work as well as photo-shopping. I am a CGI (3D and VFX) generalist, so that little device does come a lot in handy.

Cheers.


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> @ Aluc13,
> 
> Thank you. The mouse I use is a R.A.T. 7. I purchased it because I mainly do 3D modeling, rigging, some animation and other 3D work. The mouse has a very adjustable shape. I have fairly wide hands and if I grab a normal width mouse (like a Logitech or a Deathadder or an HP stock mouse) my hand skews in the middle. After 8-9 hours of modeling for example, I feel a lot of discomfort, fatigue and even pain. I bought the R.A.T 7 around 2 years ago and I made it as wide and as long as possible and it fits my hand amazingly well. Was well worth the 90 EUR. Though I have to say, sometimes - like in a week or so, the Philips sensor in the mouse will idle and fail to wake up unless the mouse is replugged or the computer restarted. Also, the thumb rest holder broke off (1 month after the warranty expired) at the pin so I had to fill it up with industrial glue. Overall, the comfort of the mouse is well worth the pesky little rodent's mischievous behavior, but I would not readily recommend it to a lot of people. If you get one that exhibits no problems - hold it and treat it well - you will not find a better mouse.
> 
> The "pad" under the keyboard is a Wacom Intous 4 M graphical tablet. I use it for most of my texture/matte painting work as well as photo-shopping. I am a CGI (3D and VFX) generalist, so that little device does come a lot in handy.
> 
> Cheers.


Thanks for all that information and I'm glad that you are enjoying your cooler. I've heard of that mouse before. I've heard that it is a good mouse. Strangely enough I've also heard of that tablet. Isn't it a graphic design tablet made to do texture work on?


----------



## Shneiky

The Wacom tablets are suitable for anything that is "digital drawing" related. Concept art, texture work, matte painting, photo manipulation etc.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> Noise wise - the lowest RMPs I could get out of my particular fans is 670 RPM. They just wont go lower. The fan BIOS needs some extra polishing for motherboard compatibility. I could only get to lowest fan speed when I use "Custom" in my Z77 Extreme6 BIOS which is a value between 1 and 255. I have set it to 1, but if I connect any other fan, those fan won't spin, since they require at least 103 to receive 5V and start spinning. 103 sends the R1 fans at 1000 or so RPM which is rather loud and this means my CPU FAN 2 header is not usable. So I am considering to get myself a fan controller for the 5 case fans and leave the R1 tied to the motherboard (now 3 fans are tied to the PSU, while other 2 are tied to the motherboard due to the fan header placing).


I am totally unfamiliar with the ASRock fan controls, so forgive me if I am asking rudimentary questions.....

From what you are stating, it sound like you are using voltage regulation on the fans, and the manual is not specific as far as VR or PWM. Does the CPU fan header not have PWM capability? Naturally, lower fan speeds can be obtained using PWM in general, especially with the Y-Connector.


----------



## Shneiky

@ ciarlatano,

ASrock Z77 E6 has 2 CPU fan headers. 1 is 4 pin PWM and 1 is 3 pin Voltage. Both CPU fan headers are controlled from the same BIOS option. The 4 BIOS options I have are - Full On, Manual, Automatic and Custom.

Full On - 100% speed

Manual and Automatic are pretty self explanatory. They use "Stage" setting that ranges from 1 to 10, which translates from lowest to highest possible fan speed. Stage 1 sets the PWM fan at 40% and the 3 pin at 5V. Stage 10 sets the PWM fan at 100% and the 3pin at 12V. I used these 2 fan headers with be quiet! and Cooler Master fans and behavior was as expected. Although, using the Cryorig fans - when set to stage 1 - the fans spin at around 70% speed or in my case 980-1050 RPM (or the XFs 70% rated fan speed with +/- 10% you have per unit as specified in their specifications). This behaviour was exhibited only by the XF140s and none other than the 5 models of fans from 2 other brands did act like this.

The Custom fan speed I am using is a number from 1 to 255. You can guess that it sends some kind of a binary number to the fan. At value of 1 (out of 255) the XF140s go down to around 700 RPM (which is around the minimal fan speed specified +10% as written in the specifications, but personally wished it was -10%). But using Custom Fan speed at 1 does not start any other fan I ever had with this motherboard. A Custom speed of 101/111 is needed for all other PWM fans to start spinning at 40% and 3pin voltage fans to receive 5V. If that value is under - the fans do not spin at all. But as you guessed it using a custom speed of 100+ sends the R1 fans at 900+ RPM. So basically, I can't use my CPU FAN HEADER 2 with the R1.

As far as my experience goes up untill now, the Cryorig fans are the only fans that exhibit this behavior. I had Be quiet!, Cooler Master, Thermalright fans hooked up and none of them run "as fast" at such low settings. I do believe it is a Cryorig fan BIOS issue. Though rather annoying - there was a workaround.


----------



## doyll

@ Shneiky
Very nice build. :thumb:a

And now you leave us in suspense..

WHAT IS THE WORKAROUND!!!


----------



## Shneiky

@ doyll,

As I already said - that is using the Custom Fan speed.







Though ASrock provides this Custom fan speed for a number of years and boards I had, it is the first time I ever used it. So I am currently using Custom Fan Speed 1 out of 255 for the R1 and moved the other fans from CPU FAN HEADER 2 to a 7V limiter and to the PSU directly. I am considering picking up a Fan controller for the 5 case fans after the holidays.


----------



## doyll

I interpreted
Quote:


> A Custom speed of 101/111 is needed for all other PWM fans to start spinning at 40% and 3pin voltage fans to receive 5V. If that value is under - the fans do not spin at all. But as you guessed it using a custom speed of 100+ sends the R1 fans at 900+ RPM.


to mean the R1 fans did not idle below 900rpm.


----------



## Shneiky

Yes, that is more or less correct. The only way to make the R1 fans idle, is to send it a signal that was lower than all other fans expected, such low signal that all other fans do not even start. Using Automatic with Stage 1 as I used to works for all other fans, but not for R1. It seems like the XT140s are much more sensitive to the input signal they receive compared to other fans. But that could also be a communication between the fan and the motherboard.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> Yes, that is more or less correct. The only way to make the R1 fans idle, is to send it a signal that was lower than all other fans expected, such low signal that all other fans do not even start. Using Automatic with Stage 1 as I used to works for all other fans, but not for R1. It seems like the XT140s are much more sensitive to the input signal they receive compared to other fans. But that could also be a communication between the fan and the motherboard.


My experience is limited but I agree. Not sure how much communication there is between fan and motherboard. Boards I've used didn't use any. PWM signal and 12v w/ ground to fan was it. That is assuming rpm was for operator to see and not used by motherboard. I say this because fans ran the same with our witout rpm sensor connected.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> My experience is limited but I agree. Not sure how much communication there is between fan and motherboard. Boards I've used didn't use any. PWM signal and 12v w/ ground to fan was it. That is assuming rpm was for operator to see and not used by motherboard. I say this because fans ran the same with our witout rpm sensor connected.


It seems what is happening is that the PWM and VR balance on the MB are a little whacky and they can't be individually adjusted. The XF140 are starting off a low enough PWM signal that the VR isn't yet giving 5V to start the other fans connected to CPU2, and the two headers run off the same curve.

But.....why are the case fans connected to CPU2 instead of the three chassis fan headers? The chassis fan headers can have individual custom curves set for each and connecting your case fans there would eliminate the issue you are having. Adding a fan controller would simply duplicate something you already have but are not using.


----------



## Shneiky

@ciarlatano ,

That is rather untrue. If you look back enough in this particular page, even Steve from Cryorig said they have exactly the same trouble with another Asus board. My CPU FAN 1 and 2 are on the same curve, but that was never an issue before with other fans from different brands. Be quiet! Shadow Wings and Silent Wings, Cooler Master Jet Flow, Blade Master and Mega Flow and a Thermalright TY-121 all function properly. The only and I repeat only fans that do not function correctly regarding fan profiles are the R1's.

To recap, I spend a complete week and the outcome is that the XT140s require quite a lot lower PWM signal to reach their other than any other fan I have ever used. So low PWM signal that it is not reachable with any of the default settings. Using the lowest default settings made all fans I ever connected to idle, but it did send the R1 fans roaring.

That might be, because ASrock uses PWM and Voltage to regulate fans. It does not have a function to control fans by their RPM. Some Asus boards do have a profile to set RPM value which, at least when i searched on the internet, some users reported that it elevated this particular issue.

I have 5 case fans and their placement does not align well with the fan headers on my motherboard. I was using CPU FAN HEADER 2 with a 3 pin Y-splitter to control my 2 top be quiet! fans while I was with the 212 Evo and all the fans were behaving as expected and in complete sync between the 4 pin CPU FAN 1 and 3 pin CPU FAN 2. Now I have them to the PSU. I have the rear fan to the PSU as well. I do have my front fans connected to Chassis fan 1&2 and they behave as expected.

All in all, the outcome is that the XT140s are too sensitive to output signal. It might work perfectly on other motherboards, but it does not work perfectly on all boards.


----------



## ciarlatano

Got it, I was totally confused as to what you were doing.


----------



## Domiro

I've noticed with Asus' Fan Xpert that my XT/XF140 hit max RPM at 70%, don't report any RPM at 80% and are virtually identical in RPM at 70%, 90% and 100%.

Don't know whether that's an issue with either the mobo (M6H) or Fan Xpert but I'll report back once I get my mobo.


----------



## pshootr

Looking at the CRYORIG R1 Ultimate and wanted to make sure it will clear my GSkill-RipJaws. Anyone have Ripjaws installed with this cooler?

Thanks

Edit: According to Cryorig's webpage it should fit. Ripjaws are 40mm tall so it will be tight but should fit. Thanks for looking.


----------



## pshootr

Hello, I just ordered the CRYORIG R1 Ultimate







. Can't wait to hook it up to my 8320E, I am currently clocked at 4.2 Ghz at around 1.278v using an old "Arctic cooler Pro 64" and I am not far from my thermal limit while running prime95. Looking forward to this upgrade!


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Hello, I just ordered the CRYORIG R1 Ultimate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Can't wait to hook it up to my 8320E, I am currently clocked at 4.2 Ghz at around 1.278v using an old "Arctic cooler Pro 64" and I am not far from my thermal limit while running prime95. Looking forward to this upgrade!


your going to love it. Awesome cooler! One of the best coolers I've ever had and Damn silent


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> your going to love it. Awesome cooler! One of the best coolers I've ever had and Damn silent


Nice. Good to hear, I am really psyched up about it. Will be the first real-deal cooler for me







I'm usually a cheapskate but I'm stepping things up with my computer upgrade this time around. Recently installed the CPU, GPU, PSU, and Case in my sig below. And just ordered this cooler, and an SSD.


----------



## Aluc13

Looking nice. For reference mine is the r1 universal. My temps are under load 50 degrees.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> Looking nice. For reference mine is the r1 universal. My temps are under load 50 degrees.


Nice load temp. What chip are you running it on? Overclocked?

Edit: Oh I see, its on your I7







That rig looks pretty sweet.


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Nice load temp. What chip are you running it on? Overclocked?
> 
> Edit: Oh I see, its on your I7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That rig looks pretty sweet.


I'm using it on an i7 5820k. Not overclocked. I could probably over clock it to 4.0 if I really wanted to or could


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> I'm using it on an i7 5820k. Not overclocked. I could probably over clock it to 4.0 if I really wanted to or could


Intel is pretty boss. I guess I am still a cheapskate lol. The last Intel I had was a PIII







Before that I had dual Celeron-366 on an Abit-BP6


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Intel is pretty boss. I guess I am still a cheapskate lol. The last Intel I had was a PIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before that I had dual Celeron-366 on an Abit-BP6


it's okay. Whatever we need for our price range. They are all computer parts regardless


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> it's okay. Whatever we need for our price range. They are all computer parts regardless


This is very true. I have had a lot of fun with my AMD gear. And we help keep Intel prices in check for you guys


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> This is very true. I have had a lot of fun with my AMD gear. And we help keep Intel prices in check for you guys


yup so true. But cryorig has great customer service and i was very impressed with their service. When you get yours make sure to register to try for a win of a custom gold cooler


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> yup so true. But cryorig has great customer service and i was very impressed with their service. When you get yours make sure to register to try for a win of a custom gold cooler


Will do, thank you for the heads-up.


----------



## Aluc13

No problem i think you have until the end of December.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> No problem i think you have until the end of December.


If all goes well, I should have tracking for it tomorrow. So hopefully I will receive it in time to register before the end of December.

Thank you again +1


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> If all goes well, I should have tracking for it tomorrow. So hopefully I will receive it in time to register before the end of December.
> 
> Thank you again +1


No problem. Let us know how it all works out.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Oooooh, apartment buzzer rang today. Mail on a Sunday is always interesting since it only happens in the last 2-3 weeks of December around here. Could it be that package from Ireland the parents ordered for me? Could it SOMEHOW be the parcel the parents sent from two provinces over but was sent on Friday during the holiday rush?

NOPE! It was something a great deal more exciting, and was shipped EMS and had the words "Cryorig" on it!


That's a lot of stamps. @Steve-S probably takes the winnings on this for any package I've received and it's stamp count! Let's take a look inside though, because an EMS mailer isn't as exciting...




^Packed in nice and snug they were! But it's still packaging, not the delicious goodies inside!



^Ohhh yes, these will definitely do rather well with my build!


^Obligatory "in the case" picture because I haven't acquired an R1 Ultimate yet because, well, payday hasn't come yet







Definitely need a Canadian distributor of these fine heatsink/fan units!


----------



## Dyaems

Thats a lot of space below the graphics card, I bet you can also mount an R1 on your graphics card and it will still fit









Its good that I didn't win, else I won't be getting that package as it was sent through EMS xD

EMS in our country = bring at least $20-$30 to claim _anything_, else they won't give it to you even if you beg or even if the item has less than $5 in value, and they are closed during December! And no, they will never deliver anything to your doorstep and you need to go to their office really early, like before the office opens!









/rant


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Thats a lot of space below the graphics card, I bet you can also mount an R1 on your graphics card and it will still fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its good that I didn't win, else I won't be getting that package as it was sent through EMS xD
> 
> EMS in our country = bring at least $20-$30 to claim _anything_, else they won't give it to you even if you beg or even if the item has less than $5 in value, and they are closed during December! And no, they will never deliver anything to your doorstep and you need to go to their office really early, like before the office opens!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> /rant


Oh, probably could fit one. I might look into printing out the compatability checker just to see if it would fit there!










^It looks nicer with two cards (I had a pair of HD 6850 1GB cards in there while dealing with a dead fan on my 780 Classified - and yes, I know the second card's unplugged in that shot, had it disabled for doing some HWBot stuff







)

EDIT: I totally can't wait to get an R1 Ultimate ^_^


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Oooooh, apartment buzzer rang today. Mail on a Sunday is always interesting since it only happens in the last 2-3 weeks of December around here. Could it be that package from Ireland the parents ordered for me? Could it SOMEHOW be the parcel the parents sent from two provinces over but was sent on Friday during the holiday rush?
> 
> NOPE! It was something a great deal more exciting, and was shipped EMS and had the words "Cryorig" on it!
> 
> 
> That's a lot of stamps. @Steve-S probably takes the winnings on this for any package I've received and it's stamp count! Let's take a look inside though, because an EMS mailer isn't as exciting...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^Packed in nice and snug they were! But it's still packaging, not the delicious goodies inside!
> 
> 
> 
> ^Ohhh yes, these will definitely do rather well with my build!
> 
> 
> ^Obligatory "in the case" picture because I haven't acquired an R1 Ultimate yet because, well, payday hasn't come yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely need a Canadian distributor of these fine heatsink/fan units!


Congrats! Those are looking really sweet


----------



## Aluc13

Those look extremely nice


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Congrats! Those are looking really sweet


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> Those look extremely nice


Thanks guys! I'm incredibly happy that @Steve-S did the giveaway here on OCN! And just as a reminder, in case it wasn't known they're hosting another giveaway on their website! I'm rather ecstatic about having been the second name drawn here on OCN for a pair!

I bet the MSI 970 Golden Editions would look even nicer next to such shrouds for the R1, but I love my 980 Gaming G4 ^_^


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Congrats Whitewulfe! Knew this would happen, im at the inlaws already for Xmas, then off to England until New Year.. Gonna have to wait to get my shrouds on


----------



## cb750rob

Nice thread ppl.

Does anyone have an R1 (pref ultimate) on a 2600k?

Currently running on an p8z68-v pro/gen3 mobo with samsung very low profile ram apogee xt, mcp350 and 360 rad @1.35v 4.5ghz in an old chieftec dragon full tower case.

Wondering how it will perform temp wise. (getting arond 67-73 c at full load depending on program at the moment):

10 mins of prime v285 @ 22c ambient room temp


Also wondering of it will fit:



Any advice greatfully recieved.

regards
Rob

(Ahem) obviously will have to cable manage a bit better....


----------



## Dyaems

If you're coming from a custom loop, with a 360mm rad even, expect the temps to increase by a bit. You probably just need a new case for your cable management issue, although "imagination + cable ties = cable management" helps as well.


----------



## cb750rob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> If you're coming from a custom loop, with a 360mm rad even, expect the temps to increase by a bit. You probably just need a new case for your cable management issue, although "imagination + cable ties = cable management" helps as well.


Thanks for the reply Dyaems.

I Hear what you are saying but I don't think my set-up performs as well as it should (the rad fans -unknown corsair-are all coming off one single channel controller and each performs differently). Also whilst not noisy per se (as in eurofighter typhoon). You can definitely hear it across the room.

Hence I fancy a change. I know I could put decent silent fans on it and buy a proper controller but I am trying to ascertain whether for that cost, an air-cooled solution would give me similar or acceptable performance for my overclock without the complications and be quieter/near silent as well.


----------



## doyll

@ cb750rob
There are many born-again air coolers people returning from H2O.







Years back H2O was needed, but now air has evolved giving us plenty of cooling with very low noise levels .. all at a very low price compared to H2O .. and the only maintenance needed is keeping case filters clean, with possibly need to clean the fins annually.


----------



## cb750rob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @ cb750rob
> There are many born-again air coolers people returning from H2O.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Years back H2O was needed, but now air has evolved giving us plenty of cooling with very low noise levels .. all at a very low price compared to H2O .. and the only maintenance needed is keeping case filters clean, with possibly need to clean the fins annually.


Exactly Doyll....!

Hence the question does anyone have an R1 on an overclocked 4.5ghz -ish 2600k? If so what are your temps? Also looking at the bulkhead above my cpu socket do you think (in the correct orientation) it would fit?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cb750rob*
> 
> Exactly Doyll....!
> 
> Hence the question does anyone have an R1 on an overclocked 4.5ghz -ish 2600k? If so what are your temps? Also looking at the bulkhead above my cpu socket do you think (in the correct orientation) it would fit?


Easiest way to find out if it will fit is use Cryorig's state of the art Origami Compatibility Tester


R1 Ultimate
http://www.cryorig.com/r1-ultimate.php#tester

R1 Universal
http://www.cryorig.com/r1-universal.php#tester


----------



## underground1

anyone use the universal in H440? how is your temp?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *underground1*
> 
> anyone use the universal in H440? how is your temp?


Anybody got a piece of string? How long is it?









Really doesn't matter without knowing what system you have in your H440 and how your case airlfow is setup.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Anybody got a piece of string? How long is it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really doesn't matter without knowing what system you have in your H440 and how your case airlfow is setup.


LOL - I have had people argue with me about temps telling me that their cooler is better than one I have reviewed because they are getting better temps on a Sandy Bridge than what I showed on a Haswell. I believe it has even happened with AMD/Haswell.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Looking at getting the C1 for my current build.
I like the look and hoping the performance is equal to my Noctua NH-U12P SE2.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> LOL - I have had people argue with me about temps telling me that their cooler is better than one I have reviewed because they are getting better temps on a Sandy Bridge than what I showed on a Haswell. I believe it has even happened with AMD/Haswell.


I think that's why I have problems comparing my current cooler (Thermaltake Frio Advanced) against other people, since most people had IB or SB back when it was new(er) and I'm running Haswell on it, which naturally runs a great deal hotter. Can't wait to get my paws on an R1 Ultimate though, and I'm actively looking into figuring out how to get one from the states shipped up here to Canada since at the moment nobody is a distributor here.


----------



## Mang Keon

Finally!

I got my replacement shroud and I'm using mounting clips for *XF140* on a *C1*. (the shroud in the pic though is the old one I broke.dunno why they're so fragile?

The replacement also broke a bit -2 tabs! so I had to stop mounting the new one. I had to mod the old shroud,I replaced the broken tabs with acrylic pieces -they hold or clip to the steel plate on top of the heatsink. the clips latch onto the shroud similar to the R1.. ) Anyways, I will take a pic of the mod some time when I re-locate my hardware to another case.

Bought the fan directly from Taiwan and the good guys at Cryorig sent me the clips and shroud as well. Thanks Cryorig people!

As you can see, I managed to offset the fan position, a bit lower and to the right-Same set up I wanted in my SG-05 case -still wip.

Another thing - previously I thought my GPU is exhibiting coil whine. or the psu , It wasn't really loud but still...slightly annoying when all else is quiet.

I replaced the XT140 with the XF---and tada... "coil whine" disappears. Well I thought it was coil whine, so it must be the fan.It's quieter now and much cooler.


----------



## CrazyElf

Anyone know if they are going to be selling the different colored shrouds? I'd like to see if I cannot get one fitted onto my current setup.

Imo, Cryrorig should start selling more accessories. It opens up a lot more possibilities for themes and looks.

I'd love to buy the gold colored one shown below:


Combine it with some Lightning series cards, some painted G.Skill TridentX RAM and I think it'd look pretty good. The G.Skill TridentX should be easier to work with, seeing that these are 120mm fans rather than 140mm fans (1cm more of clearance and of course it's always possible to move the fans up).

Cryorig R1 with 3 Gentle Typhoons 1850rpm Edition attached (sorry about crappy cell phone photos):



The cell phone camera photos don't do it justice, but here is what the motherboard looks like:


Combined with a pair of Lightning cards, the whole system would look like this (that is a Z97 XPower instead of a Z87, but they are similar in other regards, apart from the Z87 being XL ATX):


Only of course with the R1 Ultimate in gold, instead of with the crappy CLCs.







That and maybe use yellow sleeved cables.

Overall, now that I have the cooler (had to buy from the US and pick it up by car), I'd say it's arguably the best cooler on the market, and I would even argue overall a better design that the D15 by Noctua, which performs about the same (better mounting system in particular).


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Edit:
I guess Avexir Core RAM is an option.




The Avexir Gold RAM might also be worth looking at:


The reason why I prefer G.Skill though is that they use Samsung chips, not the Elpida ones that Avexir uses, which don't OC as well.



Anybody else have any ideas for themes?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I think that's why I have problems comparing my current cooler (Thermaltake Frio Advanced) against other people, since most people had IB or SB back when it was new(er) and I'm running Haswell on it, which naturally runs a great deal hotter. Can't wait to get my paws on an R1 Ultimate though, and I'm actively looking into figuring out how to get one from the states shipped up here to Canada since at the moment nobody is a distributor here.


Only way is to get the cooler shipped to a US address and to drive there (I used the Kinek points).

If you're willing to risk a delid, then Haswell will run cooler.

But yeah, judging by the number of people on this thread who are in Canada who want this cooler, it's definitely something that they need to work on - a Canadian seller. Maybe get Newegg to ship to Canada too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Lol,
> 
> Not the AF41, we're saving that for next April AF41 Rev.2015.
> 
> It's something else!


In all seriousness, if you were to release a crazy cooler like the AF41, you'd get a niche audience of buyers, even if it were expensive (ex: ~10,000 NTD). You'd have to make it a bit more forward inclined so that it doesn't hit the rear of the case, but there's usually plenty of room in front in most full tower cases. I suppose another challenge might be the mounting (making sure that it would not sag).

The point though is that there is a niche for such high end products.


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyElf*
> 
> Anyone know if they are going to be selling the different colored shrouds? I'd like to see if I cannot get one fitted onto my current setup.
> 
> Imo, Cryrorig should start selling more accessories. It opens up a lot more possibilities for themes and looks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'd love to buy the gold colored one shown below:
> 
> 
> Combine it with some Lightning series cards, some painted G.Skill TridentX RAM and I think it'd look pretty good. The G.Skill TridentX should be easier to work with, seeing that these are 120mm fans rather than 140mm fans (1cm more of clearance and of course it's always possible to move the fans up).
> 
> Cryorig R1 with 3 Gentle Typhoons 1850rpm Edition attached (sorry about crappy cell phone photos):
> 
> 
> 
> The cell phone camera photos don't do it justice, but here is what the motherboard looks like:
> 
> 
> Combined with a pair of Lightning cards, the whole system would look like this (that is a Z97 XPower instead of a Z87, but they are similar in other regards, apart from the Z87 being XL ATX):
> 
> 
> Only of course with the R1 Ultimate in gold, instead of with the crappy CLCs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That and maybe use yellow sleeved cables.
> 
> Overall, now that I have the cooler (had to buy from the US and pick it up by car), I'd say it's arguably the best cooler on the market, and I would even argue overall a better design that the D15 by Noctua, which performs about the same (better mounting system in particular).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> I guess Avexir Core RAM is an option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Avexir Gold RAM might also be worth looking at:
> 
> 
> The reason why I prefer G.Skill though is that they use Samsung chips, not the Elpida ones that Avexir uses, which don't OC as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody else have any ideas for themes?
> Only way is to get the cooler shipped to a US address and to drive there (I used the Kinek points).
> 
> If you're willing to risk a delid, then Haswell will run cooler.
> 
> But yeah, judging by the number of people on this thread who are in Canada who want this cooler, it's definitely something that they need to work on - a Canadian seller. Maybe get Newegg to ship to Canada too.
> In all seriousness, if you were to release a crazy cooler like the AF41, you'd get a niche audience of buyers, even if it were expensive (ex: ~10,000 NTD). You'd have to make it a bit more forward inclined so that it doesn't hit the rear of the case, but there's usually plenty of room in front in most full tower cases. I suppose another challenge might be the mounting (making sure that it would not sag).
> 
> The point though is that there is a niche for such high end products.


According to the customer service whom I talked through email before, they would sell those colored shrouds in the future, they will start with basic colors (like the colors we usually see on a motherboard) and then will go with more funky colors afterwards.

Maybe @Steve-S can give you a better answer









And you forgot the Crucial Ballistix Tactical.



This is the Low Profile, Low voltage version. With matching motherboard and sleeves of course







Not that i am going to win that 24K R1 though


----------



## Mang Keon

I only wish the tabs are reinforced.
At least in my experience the C1 shroud has very fragile tabs/clips.

You have to remove the metal bracket on top to secure the shroud or clip the tabs effortlessly.
But doing so, you can't put back the screws to mount that bracket. The shroud covers those screw holes.

Drill holes so you have access to the screws and then kinda ruin the look. XD


----------



## Dyaems

There is a method on how to remove the brackets, not sure if the customer support told you on how to do it. I messaged Cryorig's CS before and they even gave me a detailed reply on how to remove the brackets, although I already removed them before getting their reply, haha.

Was thinking on painting the white shroud but ended up not doing it because I need to do something with the logo first.


----------



## doyll

Pardon my bluntness, but sounds like you don't know what you are doing and resort to brute force instead of finesse.

There is nothing wrong with the shrouds. I've had mine off and on several times and lost count of how many times the fans have been off / on / changed / etc.


----------



## ciarlatano

Review of the H5 Universal is up at HTL -

http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/42795-cryorig-h5-universal-cpu-cooler-review
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWHGMItcAVM


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyElf*
> 
> Only way is to get the cooler shipped to a US address and to drive there (I used the Kinek points).
> 
> If you're willing to risk a delid, then Haswell will run cooler.
> 
> But yeah, judging by the number of people on this thread who are in Canada who want this cooler, it's definitely something that they need to work on - a Canadian seller. Maybe get Newegg to ship to Canada too.


Actually, the use of a proxy shipping or re-routing/re-shipping service works even better in my opinion. Or going through friends that live in the states and paying them a bit extra for their assistance. Doubly so for people who either don't own a vehicle or who are seven plus hours from the border!

Driving is definitely not the "only" way to do things - there are always alternate ways of doing things.

Definitely agree about how Newegg should snag up Canadian distribution rights as I'm pretty certain they would sell well, especially if kept at $90 CAD or less. Better than Noctual -14 (I always forget the exact model number) performance and makes no sacrifices in the looks department, and it also outperforms (or at least matches) several of the more common single fan clc/aio watercooling setups that sometimes are $30-40 more.


----------



## Mang Keon

Hello doyll,

I was pretty sure I did the necessary steps to avoid the same mistake I did with the first one. I mean, I knew what to do or not do..Ahahha.It was really a pain to put on.I just had to keep the shroud and do some modification to it.

I think the R1 shroud was made waaaay differently ? I'm looking at the pic--Yup , definitely different design, not sure how the R1 clips to the heat sink. But I can see the shroud tabs clip to the heatsink directly (since there is no metal bracket like in C1). The tabs on the C1 is angled it's like an L shaped clip with a wedge. the clip/tab is wedged between the heat sink and the metal bracket.

As far as I know the R1 model don't have the metal bracket for the fan to screw onto.

C1 shroud is different.You actually don't need the shroud to secure the fan.
In my case I need the shroud because I need to off set the fan to my preferred location using the metal clips used on R1.--around 6mm to the right and towards the gpu.

I did my best to illustrate-My bet is the tabs are 1 mm thin -This design is not really the strongest as you can just imagine.Maybe if it was triangular instead of L shaped.Perhaps it's the plastic material , who knows. But ultimately this is a concern for me and possibly others who own C1 who want to remove/replace the shroud..I never used too much force.

I can totally understand you if we had the same model but sorry to say it looks to me C1 shroud is way different from R1's.
Hope the drawing helps.


----------



## Mang Keon

By the way, the top part of the shroud also have tabs-shorter and more rigid to snap into the cuts on the metal bracket.
I can't (snap top parts into place) without the lower clips straining to snap into place. As I have said, the only safest way for me to secure the shroud is to entirely remove the metal bracket.But impossible to screw back unless you drill holes to have access to the screw holes.

Maybe it's just bad luck. The space really was tight-I can't show that of course -So I wish someone with the same situation proves me wrong-and then I will accept it's all on me.

@Dyaems,

I did not ask for the instructions -I should have. ******edit* you said instructions to remove the bracket? as in metal bracket on C1?

The cause of my misery is the clip design on the shroud. or the material. I don't really know.
Maybe there is a certain technique LOL.But we're talking about C1 here. That's really a strange way to attach the shroud with a very delicately shaped designed clip/tab.
Makes me think it was made not to be tampered with.

Anyways, my mod involved 2 magnets between the clip locations as the shroud's sides bend as I clip the fan with the braces.Plus I replaced the tabs with a wider acrylic material and glued those in place, this replacement clip to the metal bracket more securely as long as the sides of the shroud don't bend-hence the magnets. magnets glued to inside of shroud-magnets stick to metal brace.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mang Keon*
> 
> Hello doyll,
> 
> I was pretty sure I did the necessary steps to avoid the same mistake I did with the first one. I mean, I knew what to do or not do..Ahahha.It was really a pain to put on.I just had to keep the shroud and do some modification to it.
> 
> I think the R1 shroud was made waaaay differently ? I'm looking at the pic--Yup , definitely different design, not sure how the R1 clips to the heat sink. But I can see the shroud tabs clip to the heatsink directly (since there is no metal bracket like in C1). The tabs on the C1 is angled it's like an L shaped clip with a wedge. the clip/tab is wedged between the heat sink and the metal bracket.
> 
> As far as I know the R1 model don't have the metal bracket for the fan to screw onto.
> 
> C1 shroud is different.You actually don't need the shroud to secure the fan.
> In my case I need the shroud because I need to off set the fan to my preferred location using the metal clips used on R1.--around 6mm to the right and towards the gpu.
> 
> I did my best to illustrate-My bet is the tabs are 1 mm thin -This design is not really the strongest as you can just imagine.Maybe if it was triangular instead of L shaped.Perhaps it's the plastic material , who knows. But ultimately this is a concern for me and possibly others who own C1 who want to remove/replace the shroud..I never used too much force.
> 
> I can totally understand you if we had the same model but sorry to say it looks to me C1 shroud is way different from R1's.
> Hope the drawing helps.


The C1 shroud is much different than the R1, and you absolutely need to baby it when you remove it. I agree with you 100%, it is very fragile.


----------



## Mang Keon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The C1 shroud is much different than the R1, and you absolutely need to baby it when you remove it. I agree with you 100%, it is very fragile.


Yeah ciarlatano--
Thanks for chiming in and really I did my best not to use too much force.
It's really a bad design and unless they use a stronger material, like they won't have to make another mold of a different design (for the tabs at least).

I still think they can rectify this.Just use a different, more rigid plastic material, perhaps more flexible, LOL something that won't easily break is all I'm trying to say.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mang Keon*
> 
> Yeah ciarlatano--
> Thanks for chiming in and really I did my best not to use too much force.
> It's really a bad design and unless they use a stronger material, like they won't have to make another mold of a different design (for the tabs at least).
> 
> I still think they can rectify this.Just use a different, more rigid plastic material, perhaps more flexible, LOL something that won't easily break is all I'm trying to say.


Sorry. I was assuming it was similar to the R1 shroud. Ciarlatano has the C1 and knows more than I about it. I did have to stretch the R1 clips as the spring action was way too strong, but that was the only "mod" needed.


----------



## Mang Keon

I will take pics of the mod as soon as I get home from work.


----------



## Mang Keon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry. I was assuming it was similar to the R1 shroud. Ciarlatano has the C1 and knows more than I about it. I did have to stretch the R1 clips as the spring action was way too strong, but that was the only "mod" needed.


No apologies needed doyle- All is good. I just wanted Cryorig to "hear" me-ahaha

I kinda wished they did the same clipping method of R1 for the C1.
Well I just have to live with the mod I made, It's invisible and effective anyways.

Good thing about the rubber corners-
They made the off setting more secure.
The fan did not slide back despite the very springy clips as you have mentioned.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mang Keon*
> 
> No apologies needed doyle- All is good. I just wanted Cryorig to "hear" me-ahaha
> 
> I kinda wished they did the same clipping method of R1 for the C1.
> Well I just have to live with the mod I made, It's invisible and effective anyways.
> 
> Good thing about the rubber corners-
> They made the off setting more secure.
> The fan did not slide back despite the very springy clips as you have mentioned.


Thanks, I appreciate it, but apology was needed. I made false assumptions and blamed you instead of the shroud.








Sounds like you did a nice job!


----------



## Mang Keon

No problemo doyll.

Sorry for the wordy explanation. I can't explain the situation in a simpler manner .LOL

Here's the mod on the left , though very crude as I wanted to get it done quickly also I have to clean and cut a bit in order to get more bite on the metal clips.
To the right is the original. And look at that thin clasp thingy tab.It's much longer (more fragile) in person.

I actually made it look sturdier in the drawing.But the wedge is wrong tho-It was how I remembered it.
I already repaired the broken tabs with glue.


----------



## contay

Hey! Hit me if you must, but on quick search I didn't find answer: can you replace fans on ultimate/universal with 140mm square fans?

I am going back to air cooling and replacing my macho rev A with R1 universal. (Ultimate not sold in Finland). Now, I have few spare fans that outperform R1 fans but like said, they have square frame. So how difficult it is to mount them?

Thanks!


----------



## Duvar

Today i bought 6x Bequiet Silent Wings 2 140mm Fans. 3 for my Cryorig Universal, 1 for the rear and 2 for the top. Front fans are 2x 120mm Noiseblocker. I hope i will have no problems to use the bequiet fans on the cryorig. The Cryorig fans are unfortunately not really silent, even @ 750 RPM... Anyone tested this combination? My new Fans will arrive Saturday or Monday.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duvar*
> 
> Today i bought 6x Bequiet Silent Wings 2 140mm Fans. 3 for my Cryorig Universal, 1 for the rear and 2 for the top. Front fans are 2x 120mm Noiseblocker. I hope i will have no problems to use the bequiet fans on the cryorig. The Cryorig fans are unfortunately not really silent, even @ 750 RPM... Anyone tested this combination? My new Fans will arrive Saturday or Monday.


The fans used on the R1 is 140mm with 120mm mounting. Wont work with 140mm square fans.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The fans used on the R1 is 140mm with 120mm mounting. Wont work with 140mm square fans.


So I have to come up with something. Thanks!


----------



## Duvar

Hmmm how do we solve this problem? I want the bequiets on the cryorig


----------



## contay

If I figure out something simple I let you know^^


----------



## Duvar

Ok thx.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

You use 120mm fans instead or 140mm fans with 120mm mounting.
The front fan is 13mm, the clips wont work on thicker fan. Unless the C1 comes with 2 sets of large clips to fit 25mm thick fans.


----------



## contay

No







That's not how to solve "how I mount 140mm square fans". I have very specific fans I want to use, so does @Duvar.

But I thing strong rubberbands will come handy, again.


----------



## Duvar

I need a plan B,because i bought those fans and cant turn them back, it has to work somehow, need some tips.
Hmm rubberbands, could work i guess.


----------



## pshootr

Zip-Ties would be much more reliable/safe than rubber-bands.


----------



## contay

Or both. We'll see. ---> sleep after way too long night shift.


----------



## doyll

Zip-ties work wonders and look okay too..
http://www.overclock.net/t/753254/ziptie-screw/0_20


----------



## doyll

I've used allthread before.

Here's greywarden's all-thread mounting job.









Originally Posted by greywarden
Quote:


> I used #8 threaded rod, nuts and acorn nuts, I thought I'd ordered black rods, but they weren't black when they got here, so you can get them from Lowes, idk where to get black ones. I had to trim each of them with a hacksaw and then file the edges, look it up on youtube.
> 
> The 2 fans closer to the front of the case have a kungfu grip on the heatsink and the third one was snugged down with the acorn nuts on the ends.
> 
> Now the tricky part, they're held on by only 3 rods, because I had to assemble the fans together, and then rotate it onto the heatsink, then tighten them all down. it took a few hours all said and down, but it looks cool and it's secure.


----------



## TiezZ BE

I was searching for "the best" single tower cooler that would fit in my case (max cooler height ~16,4cm) and I came across the H5 universal. Really happy with it so far!!!



But to maximise the performance I wanted to replace the XT140 fan with a XF140 untill I saw the NF-P14r redux-1500 PWM (http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=90&lng=en&set=1), this one is cheaper in my region and should offer more cooling performance (higher rpm and CFM).

Any thoughts about this noctua redux fan as a replacement on my H5?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiezZ BE*
> 
> I was searching for "the best" single tower cooler that would fit in my case (max cooler height ~16,4cm) and I came across the H5 universal. Really happy with it so far!!!
> 
> 
> 
> But to maximise the performance I wanted to replace the XT140 fan with a XF140 untill I saw the NF-P14r redux-1500 PWM (http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=90&lng=en&set=1), this one is cheaper in my region and should offer more cooling performance.
> 
> Any thoughts about this fan as a replacement?


Have you looked at TY-147 fans?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/20_20#post_23348844


----------



## TiezZ BE

Damn, I already ordered the noctua and that thermalright fan looks good too. TY143 would be a great performer too







, but 2500rpm is too much and the colors are way off for me.

But looking at the charts, wouldn't the NF-P14r redux-1500 perform slightly better at (near) full speed, vs the TY-147?


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiezZ BE*
> 
> Damn, I already ordered the noctua and that thermalright fan looks good too. TY143 would be a great performer too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but 2500rpm is too much and the colors are way off for me.
> 
> But looking at the charts, wouldn't the NF-P14r redux-1500 perform slightly better at (near) full speed, vs the TY-147?


I had 2x TY-147 in macho and they are indeed very good. Might keep them if I can't easily install Akasas (140 square) in R1. Only reason I want R1 is that chancing fin spacing, as it offers more fin area in affition to it affects airflow. It is amazing new innovation on tower coolers.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiezZ BE*
> 
> Damn, I already ordered the noctua and that thermalright fan looks good too. TY143 would be a great performer too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but 2500rpm is too much and the colors are way off for me.
> 
> But looking at the charts, wouldn't the NF-P14r redux-1500 perform slightly better at (near) full speed, vs the TY-147?


Indeed the TY-14x series fans are very good, especially for their price. The TY-143 works very well at lower speeds too. As I said it performs just like the other up to their 1300rpm limit .. but it just keeps going.. and going.. and going .. moving more air and getting louder the farther it goes.

As for NF-P14R Redux 1500rpm .. it's 1500rpm not 1300rpm, so my guess is it is also louder at 1500rpm than the TY-14x fans are at 1300rpm. There is no way a 140mm fan will run 1500rpm at 25dBA... especially not attached to a grill, filter, or cooler .. and to me sound is as important as airflow. They give the fan noise level in open space (hanging in the middle of a dead quiet sound box / room, not the noise level it has when mounted and running on a cooler or grill / filter combination .. the way we use them in real life.


----------



## TiezZ BE

Noise isn't my biggest concern as long as it doesn't sound like a turbine.


----------



## CrazyElf

Question, is there any way to get 38mm thick fans onto these coolers (the middle is not possible, but the front and back might be)?

Prolimatech did make such clips for the Megahalems.

I suppose all thread or zip ties is an alternative.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Actually, the use of a proxy shipping or re-routing/re-shipping service works even better in my opinion. Or going through friends that live in the states and paying them a bit extra for their assistance. Doubly so for people who either don't own a vehicle or who are seven plus hours from the border!
> 
> Driving is definitely not the "only" way to do things - there are always alternate ways of doing things.
> 
> Definitely agree about how Newegg should snag up Canadian distribution rights as I'm pretty certain they would sell well, especially if kept at $90 CAD or less. Better than Noctual -14 (I always forget the exact model number) performance and makes no sacrifices in the looks department, and it also outperforms (or at least matches) several of the more common single fan clc/aio watercooling setups that sometimes are $30-40 more.


You'd have to pay a fee either way.

Anyways, I just talked with Cryorig by email, they are hoping to get a retailer in Canada sometime in 2015.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiezZ BE*
> 
> Noise isn't my biggest concern as long as it doesn't sound like a turbine.


The stock fans that come with the R1 are generally pretty quiet. Noctua is an upgrade but it's not a big one. Imo though, the Gentle Typhoon series is the best still. You'd have to solder on a PWM control though or rely on the motherboard to undervolt.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiezZ BE*
> 
> Damn, I already ordered the noctua and that thermalright fan looks good too. TY143 would be a great performer too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but 2500rpm is too much and the colors are way off for me.
> 
> But looking at the charts, wouldn't the NF-P14r redux-1500 perform slightly better at (near) full speed, vs the TY-147?


The other thing to remember is that the TY143 is PWM. So it can ramp up as needed if you ever feel the desire to bench.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> And you forgot the Crucial Ballistix Tactical.
> 
> 
> 
> This is the Low Profile, Low voltage version. With matching motherboard and sleeves of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not that i am going to win that 24K R1 though


I didn't want to use them because they don't OC as well as the G.Skill TridentX does. Come to think of it, the TridentX may very well be some of the top mainstream RAM that money can buy. Team Xtreme is pretty good too, but it's only available in black and sometimes, white.


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyElf*
> 
> Question, is there any way to get 38mm thick fans onto these coolers (the middle is not possible, but the front and back might be)?
> ...
> The other thing to remember is that the TY143 is PWM. So it can ramp up as needed if you ever feel the desire to bench.
> 
> ...


Yes that would be an option. But I've got 2 pwm casefans connected on the same cpu header (sata powered splitter) and those would slow down because of the fan curve that would need adjustment when I would install an TY143.

But the TY143 is still an option when I upgrade my mobo and cpu, I'll be looking at a new cpu+mobo combo when 5th gen intel i5/i7 is released next year (if it's worth it...).


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyElf*
> 
> Anyways, I just talked with Cryorig by email, they are hoping to get a retailer in Canada sometime in 2015.


Oooh, this is good news.


----------



## pshootr

Hello all, I am planning on getting a third fan for my R1 Ultimate. I'm would also like to get some additional 140mm case-fans for my Phanteks Enthoo Luxe to use as intake fans for the top panel. I'm wondering if the CRYORIG XF140 would also be a good choice for my case fan needs, or if should look in to another option instead? My top panel does have 120mm mounting options, I was more less concerned about performance.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Hello all, I am planning on getting a third fan for my R1 Ultimate. I'm would also like to get some additional 140mm case-fans for my Phanteks Enthoo Luxe to use as intake fans for the top panel. I'm wondering if the CRYORIG XF140 would also be a good choice for my case fan needs, or if should look in to another option instead? My top panel does have 120mm mounting options, I was more less concerned about performance.


As much as I love Cryorig coolers.....their fans would not be one of my top choices for case fans. Also, you are opening up a can of worms using the top of the Luxe for intake - you are not going to have enough exhaust to get the warmer air from the R1 out of the case, and you are also going to wind up with some very dusty components.

You can gain some intake airflow by switching out the 200mm to a pair of good 140mm - the Phanteks 140SP are an excellent choice and cost effective. If you are looking for additional intake, use the fan spots on the front floor of the Luxe.

Keep the airflow....well, flowing. Front and bottom for intake, rear and top for exhaust. The air needs a direction to move in, you don't want to cause a cyclonic effect or air pockets. The exhaust from the R1 is also going to need somewhere to go, and the single 140SP behind it is not capable of doing the job alone.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> As much as I love Cryorig coolers.....their fans would not be one of my top choices for case fans. Also, you are opening up a can of worms using the top of the Luxe for intake - you are not going to have enough exhaust to get the warmer air from the R1 out of the case, and you are also going to wind up with some very dusty components.
> 
> You can gain some intake airflow by switching out the 200mm to a pair of good 140mm - the Phanteks 140SP are an excellent choice and cost effective. If you are looking for additional intake, use the fan spots on the front floor of the Luxe.
> 
> Keep the airflow....well, flowing. Front and bottom for intake, rear and top for exhaust. The air needs a direction to move in, you don't want to cause a cyclonic effect or air pockets. The exhaust from the R1 is also going to need somewhere to go, and the single 140SP behind it is not capable of doing the job alone.


The only thing I don't like about the Phanteks fans is there is always white on them, I would prefer all black.

I was thinking about leaving the top-rear fan as exhaust and useing the top-middle/front for intake so the R1 has fresh air in front of it. However your point about dust does concern me. Intake from the floor sound good, but it wont put any air in front of the R1.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> The only thing I don't like about the Phanteks fans is there is always white on them, I would prefer all black.
> 
> I was thinking about leaving the top-rear fan as exhaust and useing the top-middle/front for intake so the R1 has fresh air in front of it. However your point about dust does concern me. Intake from the floor sound good, but it wont put any air in front of the R1.


Intake and exhaust side by side creates a circular airflow. The lower pressure of intake side draws from the positive pressure from exhaust side of fan next it it .. circular airflow.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Intake and exhaust side by side creates a circular airflow. The lower pressure of intake side draws from the positive pressure from exhaust side of fan next it it .. circular airflow.


Rite, but in this case I think the R1 is going to reduce this effect tremendously because it is placed rite where the turbulence would otherwise be. In other words the only turbulance will be in the small space rite above the R1, and ultimately will be exhausted.


----------



## pshootr

With this case, you can not have a direct in and out flow so you have to be creative. I really want to have fresh intake in front of the R1. I actually think this should work well, but I am concerned about extra dust.

Would be even better with additional fans at the bottom for more intake.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Rite, but in this case I think the R1 is going to reduce this effect tremendously because it is placed rite where the turbulence would otherwise be. In other words the only turbulance will be in the small space rite above the R1, and ultimately will be exhausted.


Case intake along side of case exhaust will suck the air the exhaust being pushed out of case right back in.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Case intake along side of case exhaust will suck the air the exhaust being pushed out of case right back in.


I also thought that, but it doesn't. I have a 120mm in front of the top rear now, and with your hand over the top you can clearly tell that the air coming in to the 120 is not hot, it is cool. Move your hand back and the air is hot, move hand back over the 120, the air is cool.


----------



## pshootr

Adding the 120 as intake took 1C off the CPU load temp. I expect the third fan on the R1, and two 140 in place of the one 120 to give a total reduction of about 5-6C under load. Perhaps that is being very optimistic, but the third fan on the R1 is supposed to be able to shed around 3C off alone.


----------



## pshootr

What might be a good idea, is to use a higher RPM fan in the top-rear to compensate for overall pressure inside the case.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Ok so I finally got a chance to install my new shrouds from the competition, here's a few pics.

Thanks to @Steve-S and Cryorig











Couple more here if anyone's interested









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## doyll

@ Slink3Slyde
Looks very nice!









Would be nice to be able to get logo on a decal.
Then we could paint our own shrouds and put on the logo.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Thanks Doyll, the rest of my rig doesnt quite do the cooler justice now, but it's improving


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

As Im in Canada getting the C1 is not here and NCIX might carry it in Feb. Too long to wait.
I got mine directly from Cryrig, took only a week to get here.

I am impressed by the whole packaging. Hell, even the registration card is over the top.
The stock fan is ok, seems the blades hit the frame in some way?

This week hopefully will have the C1 installed in my S340.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> As Im in Canada getting the C1 is not here and NCIX might carry it in Feb. Too long to wait.
> I got mine directly from Cryrig, took only a week to get here.
> 
> I am impressed by the whole packaging. Hell, even the registration card is over the top.
> The stock fan is ok, seems the blades hit the frame in some way?
> 
> This week hopefully will have the C1 installed in my S340.


They'll sell them direct?

.... ...Oh well ^-^;;;;


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

All I did was ask them about coming to Canada and they offered to sell me directly.
They were a pleasure to talk with.

All I want to do now is strip my system down to get the C1 in there.
Just need free time.


----------



## doyll

Cryorig will deal directly with people in places where there are no dealers to buy from.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Oh, well.... Suppose I should have at least asked them first *laughs nervously* Oh well, I did work out a solution with someone, so I'll have an R1 Ultimate soon enough ^_^


----------



## doyll

Very understandable. Not many companies are as helpful and supportive as Cryorig.
Important thing is you got it sorted.


----------



## Shneiky

So, I was recommending the R1 Ultimate to a friend today and he made me noticed something:

R1 Ultimate from alternate.co.uk - 57 pounds or 72 EUR (approx)
R1 Ultimate from alternate.de - 70 EUR
R1 Ult from alternate.it - 72 EUR
R1 Ult from alternate.fr - 72 EUR

But from alternate.nl and alternate.be it is a whooping 90 EUR. And I just bought my R1 for 64 EUR from alternate.nl a month and something ago. I had no idea the price changed that much in NL and BE. So for NL I am back to recommending Thermalright Archons and Silver Arrows (which can be found for 70-72 EUR), Be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3s (for 80ish with shipment) and Phanteks. The R1 is a great cooler, but not for 90 EUR. 65-70 is a reasonable price. I am not telling Cryorig how to do business, but price is price.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> So, I was recommending the R1 Ultimate to a friend today and he made me noticed something:
> 
> R1 Ultimate from alternate.co.uk - 57 pounds or 72 EUR (approx)
> R1 Ultimate from alternate.de - 70 EUR
> R1 Ult from alternate.it - 72 EUR
> R1 Ult from alternate.fr - 72 EUR
> 
> But from alternate.nl and alternate.be it is a whooping 90 EUR. And I just bought my R1 for 64 EUR from alternate.nl a month and something ago. I had no idea the price changed that much in NL and BE. So for NL I am back to recommending Thermalright Archons and Silver Arrows (which can be found for 70-72 EUR), Be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3s (for 80ish with shipment) and Phanteks. The R1 is a great cooler, but not for 90 EUR. 65-70 is a reasonable price. I am not telling Cryorig how to do business, but price is price.


Is that the delivered price? VAT varies some .. 20% to 25% is 2-3EUR difference. But if delivery is included in those costs I'm betting that is where the big difference is.


----------



## Shneiky

All those prices are without delivery. Delivery from alternate for R1 vary between 4.95 and 6.95 for the different countries.

VAT in most countries is between 19-21%. Like 19% in DE, 21% in NL, 20% in France. Nothing explains the difference and why is it 1/3 more expensive in NL and BE. Also, the same R1 cost 65 EUR in NL a month and a so ago.


----------



## doyll

Than I don't know. Supply and demand maybe.

Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 Rev. A and TRUE Spirit 140 Power are both very good.


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> So, I was recommending the R1 Ultimate to a friend today and he made me noticed something:
> 
> R1 Ultimate from alternate.co.uk - 57 pounds or 72 EUR (approx)
> R1 Ultimate from alternate.de - 70 EUR
> R1 Ult from alternate.it - 72 EUR
> R1 Ult from alternate.fr - 72 EUR
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> But from alternate.nl and alternate.be it is a whooping 90 EUR. And I just bought my R1 for 64 EUR from alternate.nl a month and something ago. I had no idea the price changed that much in NL and BE. So for NL I am back to recommending Thermalright Archons and Silver Arrows (which can be found for 70-72 EUR), Be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3s (for 80ish with shipment) and Phanteks. The R1 is a great cooler, but not for 90 EUR. 65-70 is a reasonable price.
> 
> 
> I am not telling Cryorig how to do business, but price is price.


Yeah, I just helped a friend to choose new components to build a new rig. Cryorig is pretty expensive and not widely available in the Benelux. I gave him a list of coolers, we discussed it, and he ordered the Thermalright True Spirit 140 Power (~€44).

But I still love my H5


----------



## doyll

I love mine too.


----------



## thedoo

Bought an R1 Ultimate about a week ago from Newegg and installed it into a Gigabyte X99M-Gaming5. Saw some posts in this thread that you have to get a 2011-3 upgrade kit from Cryorig to use it with x99 motherboards, but installation seemed to go fine and temps look fine, around 33C idle.

Is my heatsink not attached properly because I don't have the 2011-3 screws?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> Bought an R1 Ultimate about a week ago from Newegg and installed it into a Gigabyte X99M-Gaming5. Saw some posts in this thread that you have to get a 2011-3 upgrade kit from Cryorig to use it with x99 motherboards, but installation seemed to go fine and temps look fine, around 33C idle.
> 
> Is my heatsink not attached properly because I don't have the 2011-3 screws?


The studs that screw into the motherboard in the 2011-3 upgrade kit are shorter than the ones included in the cooler kit. It would be best to have Cryorig send you some and use them.

If CPU is running at stock speed I would expect your temps to be a little lower, but to know for sure we need to know what your load temps are.


----------



## gumbie

Question:

Just managed to break my C1 Shroud.. Can't be bothered replacing/fixing it.. It shouldn't effect temps at all right?


----------



## Mang Keon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gumbie*
> 
> Question:
> 
> Just managed to break my C1 Shroud.. Can't be bothered replacing/fixing it.. It shouldn't effect temps at all right?


It's just a shroud- It doesn't affect performance.

If you want, you could stick it with double sided tape if you're after the looks (looks better with it for sure).
I did that to my C1 at first and then I replaced the broken parts and then modified it to be able to use clips a la R1 mounting.


----------



## ciarlatano

HTL review or the H7 is up -

http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/42980-cryorig-h7-universal-cpu-cooler-review
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrROVq0cdCY

Another top flight piece from Cryorig.


----------



## Dyaems

Whats the difference between the H5 and H7? H7 being "thicker", like an Thermalright HRxx? found the answer myself, silly me









I'm supposed to buy an H5 last month even though I don't really need it because, why not? It also came with an extra XF140 but as soon as I hit the "buy" button, it was sold out...


----------



## FlyingSolo

Does anyone know if i will have any problems fitting the Cryorig R1 Ultimate on the ASRock Fatal1ty X99M Killer. It will be used in my gaming rig sig.


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlyingSolo*
> 
> Does anyone know if i will have any problems fitting the Cryorig R1 Ultimate on the ASRock Fatal1ty X99M Killer. It will be used in my gaming rig sig.


I'd assume that you will not have problems since your graphics card doesn't have a backplate. But you might need to ask Cryorig for the 2011-3 thingy if it does not come with the R1 you will buy.

EDIT: No, its not possible. My bad. I checked your case and it can only fit ~152mm height for CPU coolers.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlyingSolo*
> 
> Does anyone know if i will have any problems fitting the Cryorig R1 Ultimate on the ASRock Fatal1ty X99M Killer. It will be used in my gaming rig sig.


For your case I would do the C1. Check Cryorig site as the have a model you can print up to get an idea how the C1 will fit.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlyingSolo*
> 
> Does anyone know if i will have any problems fitting the Cryorig R1 Ultimate on the ASRock Fatal1ty X99M Killer. It will be used in my gaming rig sig.


The H7 is only 145 mm I believe. Not to many tower coolers that short at all


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> HTL review or the H7 is up -
> 
> http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/heatsinks/42980-cryorig-h7-universal-cpu-cooler-review
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrROVq0cdCY
> 
> Another top flight piece from Cryorig.


Thanks for the review.

I read at the end of the review that the stock fan gives an unusual noise, have you tried adjusting the fan higher, to see if it will give the same noise? Just curious if that will get rid of the noise.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Thanks for the review.
> 
> I read at the end of the review that the stock fan gives an unusual noise, have you tried adjusting the fan higher, to see if it will give the same noise? Just curious if that will get rid of the noise.


No, placement has no effect. I wouldn't call the noise "unusual", and it isn't as bad as you may be taking it. To put it in some perspective, I would describe the H7 as pretty much inaudible next to a 212 EVO. Had I tested it against a CLC (excepting the new CM Neptons), I would have described it as much needed relief for my ears. However, the luck of the draw had the H7 tested against the Pure Rock (which is basically inaudible no matter what you compare it to) and DX12 which has a much deeper and more even tonality.


----------



## contay

Has anyone Ultimate or Universal installed on mobo with 4 memory channels? I mean, mobo which has ram slots on both sides of the cpu? Does it fit? I am not going to have any high profile memories with heatspreader, "ordinary" only.


----------



## MonarchX

*Would Cryorig H7 fit in my case, given my RAM placement?* Please take a look at my rig photos in my signature. I was wondering if replacing CM Hyper 212 EVO with Cryorig H7 made any sense? It appears to be quieter and performing better. I would expect a 5C max load temperature reduction after switching from Hyper 212 EVO to Cryorig H7. Is that a too big of an expectation? Currently my CPU gets as hot as 94C after Prime95 Maximum Heat 4 hour run.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MonarchX*
> 
> *Would Cryorig H7 fit in my case, given my RAM placement?* Please take a look at my rig photos in my signature. I was wondering if replacing CM Hyper 212 EVO with Cryorig H7 made any sense? It appears to be quieter and performing better. I would expect a 5C max load temperature reduction after switching from Hyper 212 EVO to Cryorig H7. Is that a too big of an expectation? Currently my CPU gets as hot as 94C after Prime95 Maximum Heat 4 hour run.


The H7 will fit without an issue. It is quieter and a better performer than the 212 EVO. How much of a performance increase you wee will depend a lot on the build.

Personally, I would recommend you go for the H5. It is even quieter with another bump in performance, fits your case and is only slight more in terms of cost.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> I'd assume that you will not have problems since your graphics card doesn't have a backplate. But you might need to ask Cryorig for the 2011-3 thingy if it does not come with the R1 you will buy.
> 
> EDIT: No, its not possible. My bad. I checked your case and it can only fit ~152mm height for CPU coolers.


Thanks for letting me know.


----------



## MonarchX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The H7 will fit without an issue. It is quieter and a better performer than the 212 EVO. How much of a performance increase you wee will depend a lot on the build.
> 
> Personally, I would recommend you go for the H5. It is even quieter with another bump in performance, fits your case and is only slight more in terms of cost.


Awesome! Are you sure H5 would fit? Hyper 212 EVO BARELY fits with the closest RAM module touching the cooler tightly! Otherwise it looks like a really good cooler for very little $ and performance much better than CM Hyper 212 EVO provides me right now. 94C is too hot, even for Prime95 Maximum Heat stress-test. Cryorig H5 will surely do a better job!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MonarchX*
> 
> Awesome! Are you sure H5 would fit? Hyper 212 EVO BARELY fits with the closest RAM module touching the cooler tightly! Otherwise it looks like a really good cooler for very little $ and performance much better than CM Hyper 212 EVO provides me right now. 94C is too hot, even for Prime95 Maximum Heat stress-test. Cryorig H5 will surely do a better job!


I am positive the H5 will fit. The H5 has zero RAM interference on that board. While it is larger than the 212, it is positioned further back so as not to impede the RAM slots.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWHGMItcAVM


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

You can look at the H7 pipes are not straight, they are pushed back slightly to give more clearance on ram when using standard 25mm fans.
H5 uses thin 13mm fan, to get the same clearance as the H7.


----------



## MonarchX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I am positive the H5 will fit. The H5 has zero RAM interference on that board. While it is larger than the 212, it is positioned further back so as not to impede the RAM slots.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWHGMItcAVM


*What's the best performing air-cooler* (heatsink + fan) that is universal like H5 and H7 that and does not touch RAM modules? I figured I might as well go for the very best!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MonarchX*
> 
> *What's the best performing air-cooler* (heatsink + fan) that is universal like H5 and H7 that and does not touch RAM modules? I figured I might as well go for the very best!


The Cryorig R1 Universal.

Some might argue the Silverstone HE-01....but it needs a second fan to keep up with the R1 Universal, at which point it is blocking the RAM. Plus the HE-01 sounds like a 747 taking off in the room.


----------



## MonarchX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Cryorig R1 Universal.


No way! That thing is HUGE!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MonarchX*
> 
> No way! That thing is HUGE!


Well, then it would be the H5 or Noctua NH-U12S. Very similar performance, the Noctua is a touch quieter, the H5 is more aesthetically appealing to most people.


----------



## MonarchX

I mean I wold go for the R1 Universal if it does fit into ANY RAM combination motherboard socket. Does it say so specifically? Does it cool down better than Noctua NH-U12S?

About NH-U12S: Does the fan come in ANY other color than the poop-color? I know Noctua recently came up with new color schemes - black & brown and gray. I think either of them would look way better than beige color scheme? Can NH-U12S fan be replaced by comparable Noctua fans that use the new color scheme, while maintaining the Universal status and being capable of fitting onto my motherboard without affecting RAM replacement???


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MonarchX*
> 
> I mean I wold go for the R1 Universal if it does fit into ANY RAM combination motherboard socket. Does it say so specifically? Does it cool down better than Noctua NH-U12S?
> 
> About NH-U12S: Does the fan come in ANY other color than the poop-color? I know Noctua recently came up with new color schemes - black & brown and gray. I think either of them would look way better than beige color scheme? Can NH-U12S fan be replaced by comparable Noctua fans that use the new color scheme, while maintaining the Universal status and being capable of fitting onto my motherboard without affecting RAM replacement???


The universal isn't much behind the Ultimate like 2 degrees from reviews I've seen, as in not much behind the NH-D15. I'm sure Doyll or Ciarlatano have tested both themselves and can tell you first hand.

Have a look here at the installation video halfway down on an ITX board if you have doubts about the RAM compatibility, 13mm front fan and slightly offset heatsink I think you'll be fine with any RAM









http://www.cryorig.com/r1-universal.php


----------



## doyll

I'm waiting for R1 Universal to arrive so I can do my own testing, but I suspect both R1 coolers are very close with same fans. Universal is only 1-3c warmer with stock fans.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MonarchX*
> 
> No way! That thing is HUGE!


But its soooooo sexy!


----------



## contay

One quick question for ultimate owners: How thick is one tower? I mean what is the distance between two fans?

I plan mounting 140mm fans with 140mm fan spacing (square fans) with metal rods as mentioned few pages ago. I simply plan cutting the rods and machining the M4 thread there and I'd like to make them ready before my R1 Ultimate arrives.


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No, placement has no effect. I wouldn't call the noise "unusual", and it isn't as bad as you may be taking it. To put it in some perspective, I would describe the H7 as pretty much inaudible next to a 212 EVO. Had I tested it against a CLC (excepting the new CM Neptons), I would have described it as much needed relief for my ears. However, the luck of the draw had the H7 tested against the Pure Rock (which is basically inaudible no matter what you compare it to) and DX12 which has a much deeper and more even tonality.


Oh okay, the noise I was thinking is similar to a humming sound so I just assumed that you are hearing a similar "weird noise" as I am when the fans are mounted lower similar to mounting the fan on the H7 stock. I usually fix it by lifting the fan and that "weird noise" will disappear.

The H7 is interesting because of its height, it fits inside my Core 1000 or other cases that lacks width! But then again, my Core 1000 is already using a C1...


----------



## doyll

I've noticed some wondering about the RAM clearance differences between R1 coolers. Obviously fan on Ultimate is thicker, but that's not all. Here is what I've found:

*Differences between R1 Universal and R1 Ultimate*

The Universal uses the XT140 front fan which is 13mm thick and Ultimate uses XF140 front fan which is 25.4mm thick (I've measured 14mm & 27mm including vibration pads). R1 Ultimate and Universal are also not the same coolers Universal has heatpipes formed for more RAM clearance and fin paces are also slightly different for the same reason. This increases the cooler setback by another 4.5mm.


----------



## contay

Has anyone mounted any Cryorig on OCd cpu, on X99-mobo with RAM slots both sides of cpu? Is there any conflicts, especially on "back side"?


----------



## Aluc13

Depends on the RAMs height. My cryorig r1 universal fit my corsair vengeance less than an inch to spare.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Has anyone mounted any Cryorig on OCd cpu, on X99-mobo with RAM slots both sides of cpu? Is there any conflicts, especially on "back side"?


You can download an origami pattern of cooler bottom that you can print and make to check clearances.
R1 Ultimate one here at bottom of page.
http://www.cryorig.com/r1-universal.php


----------



## contay

Problem is, I don't yet have X99 board^^ But I see what I can deduce from origami.


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Problem is, I don't yet have X99 board^^ But I see what I can deduce from origami.


I actually have done this. It is in my current system. The universal has a RAM clearance of 32" so if you have a high heat spreader on your RAM they won't fit. Mine barely fits, and I'm using a corsair vengeance lpx DDR 4 ram at 2666mhz


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Did you mean millimeter (mm)? 32" of clearance is almost three feet or a full meter. ^-^


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Did you mean millimeter (mm)? 32" of clearance is almost three feet or a full meter. ^-^


Yes, that's what I meant. My bad.


----------



## doyll

I knew some RAM was quite tall, but 32"









We all make these mistakes .. like when I posted a controller as rated for 30a when it was 30w.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Hello again chaps, does anyone have any ideas on European availability and pricing of the QF120 series fans, like the one on the H7? Wouldnt mind trying a couple out.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I knew some RAM was quite tall, but 32"


Some of the Kingston stuff isn't much smaller than that.....









http://www.kingston.com/us/hyperx/memory/predator


----------



## GrimDoctor

The "origami" PDF provided on the Cryorig really saved me some hassle. Though I though I might just clear my RAM using the Ultimate, the paper said no go, so I've order the Universal and can't wait to get it - should only be a few days








If anyone's unsure about what I mean about "origami" PDF, I documented the process and result in my build log, first page:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1536425/


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> The "origami" PDF provided on the Cryorig really saved me some hassle. Though I though I might just clear my RAM using the Ultimate, the paper said no go, so I've order the Universal and can't wait to get it - should only be a few days
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone's unsure about what I mean about "origami" PDF, I documented the process and result in my build log, first page:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1536425/


you'll be happy with the universal. I have that one. And it is awesome. Keeps my 5820k at 55 and under on heavy load, playing Dragon Age Inquisition


----------



## hipzilla

So it took a little bit of research and a lot of waffling back and forth on my part, but I decided to pick up a Cryorig R1 Ultimate for my new build. Let me first say that packaging wise, these guys are on top of the game. Product packaging was beautiful, included accessories were not only well organized and labeled but also extremely helpful (long screw driver for the win!). Product itself looked great and appears to be put together exceptionally well. Installation took me a minute. Not exceptionally difficult, but not quite as simple as things have been with the AIO units I've been using over the last couple of years. When putting the support bracket on my motherboard I guess I didn't put one of the posts all the way through the hole... the pop I heard when securing the R1 down scared the hell out of me.

Cooling performance aside, the real reason for this purchase was the need for silent operation. I've previously gone through Corsair H50, H80, H80i, and H100i units and they're all noisy. My hearing isn't all that great, but I could still hear each and every one of those coolers from my PC that is 3-4ft from my desk on the floor. With the R1, I hear nothing at 800RPM. It's magical. I probably could have gotten the same from any of the other big HSFs on the block but that doesn't make me any less happy with this purchase. Many







to Cryorig for an outstanding product.

I leave you all with some potato-quality photos from my Nexus 5.


----------



## doyll

@ hipzilla
Looks really nice!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hipzilla*
> 
> Cooling performance aside, the real reason for this purchase was the need for silent operation. I've previously gone through Corsair H50, H80, H80i, and H100i units and they're all noisy. My hearing isn't all that great, but I could still hear each and every one of those coolers from my PC that is 3-4ft from my desk on the floor. With the R1, I hear nothing at 800RPM. It's magical. I probably could have gotten the same from any of the other big HSFs on the block but that doesn't make me any less happy with this purchase. Many
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to Cryorig for an outstanding product.


Looking good.









Welcome back from the dark side of sailboat hypnosis......


----------



## WhiteWulfe

I'll admit - all this talk of the R1's being relatively quiet has me worried... I've kind of grown fond of the droning hum my Frio Advanced has, but I'll take the significantly sexier option any day, not to mention the sheer performance the R1 Ultimate has.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Welcome back from the dark side of sailboat hypnosis......


ROFL


----------



## GrimDoctor

Just had a knock at the door!



Currently I have the Noctua NT-H1 and the included Cryorig thermal paste. @doyll which would you use? I assume in reviews they've used the included thermal paste to get those results? Do you recommend something else? I'm running a i4770k.


----------



## doyll

i use the stock paste. Works great!


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> i use the stock paste. Works great!


The Cryorig one?

Here's a quick test fit:



Damn it looks good! Will be getting a stealth treatment after testing!


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> Just had a knock at the door!
> 
> 
> 
> Currently I have the Noctua NT-H1 and the included Cryorig thermal paste. @doyll which would you use? I assume in reviews they've used the included thermal paste to get those results? Do you recommend something else? I'm running a i4770k.


Glad you asked. When I bought my R1 Ultimate I also purchased some "PROLIMA-TECH PK-3 because I didn't know TIM was included with the cooler, so I used the PK-3. I have been wondering if my TIM application and mount were bad because my load temps are a little higher than I expected. So when I do remount the cooler I may try the stock paste instead of the PK-3.

I should probably remount with PK-3 again, and then mount two times with stock paste to be fair.


----------



## Ant4res

Hi! I have the cryorig R1 universal and i use the stock paste, and everything go very well. I am pretty happy with my cooler.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ant4res*
> 
> Hi! I have the cryorig R1 universal and i use the stock paste, and everything go very well. I am pretty happy with my cooler.


Hello







I am also very happy with my cooler, it is so much better than my old one. Hopefully I get even better results after re-mounting it.


----------



## Ant4res

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Hello
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am also very happy with my cooler, it is so much better than my old one. Hopefully I get even better results after re-mounting it.


Nice. I changed the corsair h100i and i m very happy with this change, temps are almost the same but i have the sweet sound of silence with the R1. XD


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ant4res*
> 
> Nice. I changed the corsair h100i and i m very happy with this change, temps are almost the same but i have the sweet sound of silence with the R1. XD


Oh nice to here. I think it is great these can perform very well with less noise.


----------



## GrimDoctor

Hmm. It seems I need you use a lot of force to get the screws in, doesn't feel right. Anyone else had this?
I'm a bit worried about pushing much harder on the motherboard.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> Hmm. It seems I need you use a lot of force to get the screws in, doesn't feel right. Anyone else had this?
> I'm a bit worried about pushing much harder on the motherboard.


I had the same issue, I had to put a lot of pressure on the springs in order to get the screws started. Was a pain actually. My back plate was not loose after installing it either like most reviews say it should be. I am not sure why.

Is your motherboard in the case? Mine was, so it flexed a bit. Kind of scary.

If your motherboard is out of the case on a flat surface the back plate should take the pressure without flexing your board much.


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I had the same issue, I had to put a lot of pressure on the springs in order to get the screws started. Was a pain actually. My back plate was not loose after installing it either like most reviews say it should be. I am not sure why.


It feels like I'm going to break my motherboard...
Any tips? Anyone?


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> It feels like I'm going to break my motherboard...
> Any tips? Anyone?


Did you read my edit on the post above?


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Did you read my edit on the post above?


Just read it. My board is out of the case on a motherboard tray. I'll try without it but it's still worrying...


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> Just read it. My board is out of the case on a motherboard tray. I'll try without it but it's still worrying...


I think if your back plate is flat on a hard surface like a table, then your board should not flex much at all.

You may want to remove it from the motherboard tray. So that the back plate is flat on a hard surface.


----------



## pshootr

If you remove the center fan it makes it easier to see what your doing.

I had to turn the driver all the way counter clock wise, and then commit to some very firm down-pressure and turn clockwise as far as I could to get them started. After that was done the rest was a breeze.


----------



## hipzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> Just read it. My board is out of the case on a motherboard tray. I'll try without it but it's still worrying...


Hey, don't know if you got this sorted out yet but since I just did this a day ago I figure I will tell you what I did.

Remove the middle/second fan. The bar with your two spring-loaded screws is held down by a screw in the middle of the bar. Loosen it a little, and you should be able to start the thread on both of your spring-loaded screws without putting unnecessary amounts of force on your motherboard/etc. Once each of the two screws is started, tighten the screw in the middle back down. Finish both of the spring-loaded screws, place your fan back on, and profit.

For reference, the backplate on my Asus Z97 Pro fit snug up against the motherboard. That is to say that the backplate and cushions were up against the backside of my motherboard. It did not hang loose at all, despite what the instructions said.

Hope that helps.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hipzilla*
> 
> Hey, don't know if you got this sorted out yet but since I just did this a day ago I figure I will tell you what I did.
> 
> Remove the middle/second fan. The bar with your two spring-loaded screws is held down by a screw in the middle of the bar. Loosen it a little, and you should be able to start the thread on both of your spring-loaded screws without putting unnecessary amounts of force on your motherboard/etc. Once each of the two screws is started, tighten the screw in the middle back down. Finish both of the spring-loaded screws, place your fan back on, and profit.
> 
> For reference, the backplate on my Asus Z97 Pro fit snug up against the motherboard. That is to say that the backplate and cushions were up against the backside of my motherboard. It did not hang loose at all, despite what the instructions said.
> 
> Hope that helps.


I am going to have to try this method when I remount my cooler. The trouble I had the first time is the whole reason have not remounted yet. +rep


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> The Cryorig one?
> 
> Here's a quick test fit:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn it looks good! Will be getting a stealth treatment after testing!


All Cryorig coolers look good. Really nice simple artistic design without any compromise in performance.
Are you thinking of changing shroud color?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Glad you asked. When I bought my R1 Ultimate I also purchased some "PROLIMA-TECH PK-3 because I didn't know TIM was included with the cooler, so I used the PK-3. I have been wondering if my TIM application and mount were bad because my load temps are a little higher than I expected. So when I do remount the cooler I may try the stock paste instead of the PK-3.
> 
> I should probably remount with PK-3 again, and then mount two times with stock paste to be fair.


PK-3 may be a little better, but good mount will make more difference than which TIM is used. The only TIM that really might make a difference are the Coolaboratory Liquid Pro and Liquid Ultra .. and they are problematic because getting a good mount is extremely hard .. not to mention extreme expense.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ant4res*
> 
> Hi! I have the cryorig R1 universal and i use the stock paste, and everything go very well. I am pretty happy with my cooler.


Stock paste is quite good.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ant4res*
> 
> Nice. I changed the corsair h100i and i m very happy with this change, temps are almost the same but i have the sweet sound of silence with the R1. XD


Indeed. I'm seeing more and more people drying out with top air coolers after falling for all the sailboat hype about how great CLCs are.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> It feels like I'm going to break my motherboard...
> Any tips? Anyone?


Try pushing down on the springs with cooler just setting on something else. The springs on most cooler spring mounts are hard to get started the first couple of times. Compressing them a few times usually solves the problem.

Also be careful not to over tighten the screws. The threads are so clean the screw in very easily and with the added leverage of the 'L' shaped screwdriver it is quite easy to break the screws, so stop as soon as they stop turning.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hipzilla*
> 
> Hey, don't know if you got this sorted out yet but since I just did this a day ago I figure I will tell you what I did.
> 
> Remove the middle/second fan. The bar with your two spring-loaded screws is held down by a screw in the middle of the bar. Loosen it a little, and you should be able to start the thread on both of your spring-loaded screws without putting unnecessary amounts of force on your motherboard/etc. Once each of the two screws is started, tighten the screw in the middle back down. Finish both of the spring-loaded screws, place your fan back on, and profit.
> 
> For reference, the backplate on my Asus Z97 Pro fit snug up against the motherboard. That is to say that the backplate and cushions were up against the backside of my motherboard. It did not hang loose at all, despite what the instructions said.
> 
> Hope that helps.


I've done this with other coolers. That center screw is only there to hold the crossbar in place until cooler is mounted. Once mounted is serves no purpose. But yes, do snug it back down so it can't vibrate loose and possibly fall out and short something on mobo or back of GPU.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> Hmm. It seems I need you use a lot of force to get the screws in, doesn't feel right. Anyone else had this?
> I'm a bit worried about pushing much harder on the motherboard.


I have been thinking "ok.....this is really disturbing" since seeing people talking about needing to use force mounting a Cryorig on an Intel board. I have literally mounted every Cryorig model numerous times on a few different boards, and each time the screws on the cooler had to be threaded in a couple of turns prior to the cooler making contact with the CPU. In other words, it was the opposite of requiring force.

Did you, by any chance, install the mounting bars flat side up? This would cause the threads to sit lower and would explain the "force" problem as well as why it is tight to the point of bending the motherboard. The bars need to be mounted with the flat side facing the MB.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have been thinking "ok.....this is really disturbing" since seeing people talking about needing to use force mounting a Cryorig on an Intel board. I have literally mounted every Cryorig model numerous times on a few different boards, and each time the screws on the cooler had to be threaded in a couple of turns prior to the cooler making contact with the CPU. In other words, it was the opposite of requiring force.
> 
> Did you, by any chance, install the mounting bars flat side up? This would cause the threads to sit lower and would explain the "force" problem as well as why it is tight to the point of bending the motherboard. The bars need to be mounted with the flat side facing the MB.


I had the same issue on my AMD board.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I had the same issue on my AMD board.


We know that the AMD is higher pressure mounting, as it is with Noctua and Phanteks also. I am referring specifically to Intel 115X which is the mount in question.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> We know that the AMD is higher pressure mounting, as it is with Noctua and Phanteks also. I am referring specifically to Intel 115X which is the mount in question.


Oh I see. I had no idea I would come across this issue. Although performance wise high pressure is a good thing, so I'm glad in that respect. But man what a chore to get it mounted. And I feel I need to remount mine.

BTW, why don't you use rig-builder already


----------



## Slink3Slyde

I actually recall doing exactly as Ciarlatano says when i mounted mine. Once i realized my mistake it was very easy


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> BTW, why don't you use rig-builder already


Well, first off.....I'm totally lazy with that kind of stuff.....









But, really it's because my rigs change constantly due to benchmarking. If I entered it right now, by noon tomorrow the GPU will have changed, and the CPU cooler will have changed eight times in one build.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Well, first off.....I'm totally lazy with that kind of stuff.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, really it's because my rigs change constantly due to benchmarking. If I entered it right now, by noon tomorrow the GPU will have changed, and the CPU cooler will have changed eight times in one build.


I think lazy sumz it all up lol. I'm going to change the clock speed in my sig rite now, just for you


----------



## GrimDoctor

Thanks guys I eventually got it in by placed the back plate on something solid and pushing very hard.

The hardest install ever had on a cooler but it's on now. Fingers crossed my TIM application was good.

Once I OC I'll be able to compare to my NHD15. Thanks for all the help guys. Struggling yo quote and rep on my phone so I'll rep those that helped when I get my PC completely up and running


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> Thanks guys I eventually got it in by placed the back plate on something solid and pushing very hard.
> 
> The hardest install ever had on a cooler but it's on now. Fingers crossed my TIM application was good.
> 
> Once I OC I'll be able to compare to my NHD15. Thanks for all the help guys. Struggling yo quote and rep on my phone so I'll rep those that helped when I get my PC completely up and running


No problem bud, glad to hear. I know what you mean about TIM application. After all that ordeal, the last thing you want, is to have to do it again. hehe









I will be remounting mine soon though, hopefully it will go back on easier the next time. I am going to try "hipzilla's" method.


----------



## doyll

What
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have been thinking "ok.....this is really disturbing" since seeing people talking about needing to use force mounting a Cryorig on an Intel board. I have literally mounted every Cryorig model numerous times on a few different boards, and each time the screws on the cooler had to be threaded in a couple of turns prior to the cooler making contact with the CPU. In other words, it was the opposite of requiring force.
> 
> Did you, by any chance, install the mounting bars flat side up? This would cause the threads to sit lower and would explain the "force" problem as well as why it is tight to the point of bending the motherboard. The bars need to be mounted with the flat side facing the MB.


What Ciarlatano said.
Flat side of mounting bars is toward motherboard.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Well, first off.....I'm totally lazy with that kind of stuff.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, really it's because my rigs change constantly due to benchmarking. If I entered it right now, by noon tomorrow the GPU will have changed, and the CPU cooler will have changed eight times in one build.


Same reason here.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I think lazy sumz it all up lol. I'm going to change the clock speed in my sig rite now, just for you


If you had several systems and they were constantly changing, you might understand what Ciarlatano is saying .. and if you did have them all in your rig-builder, probably wouldn't keep rig-builder up to date.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> Thanks guys I eventually got it in by placed the back plate on something solid and pushing very hard.
> 
> The hardest install ever had on a cooler but it's on now. Fingers crossed my TIM application was good.
> 
> Once I OC I'll be able to compare to my NHD15. Thanks for all the help guys. Struggling yo quote and rep on my phone so I'll rep those that helped when I get my PC completely up and running


I haven't installed Cryorig on and AMD, but am surprised it would be that much harder. Need to steal wif'e's and put the H7 on it just to find out.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> Thanks guys I eventually got it in by placed the back plate on something solid and pushing very hard.


There is something that is still not right. I have installed this cooler on the Z97 Deluxe several times. If it required any force at all it is mounted incorrectly, or there is something wrong with your mounting kit.

So....it's going to be hard to accurately gauge its performance when it is not correctly mounted.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I haven't installed Cryorig on and AMD, but am surprised it would be that much harder. Need to steal wif'e's and put the H7 on it just to find out.


Now, doyll, you know that the H7 doesn't use the MultiSeg....

It isn't that much harder. Same scenario as Phanteks - you need to start one side with ~1 full turn, then press a bit on the other to get it started. The AMD mount doesn't sit on the threads prior to making CPU contact like the Intel does.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Now, doyll, you know that the H7 doesn't use the MultiSeg....
> 
> It isn't that much harder. Same scenario as Phanteks - you need to start one side with ~1 full turn, then press a bit on the other to get it started. The AMD mount doesn't sit on the threads prior to making CPU contact like the Intel does.


My bad. H5. H7 has new X -bar mount. tI don't have an H7 yet.


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There is something that is still not right. I have installed this cooler on the Z97 Deluxe several times. If it required any force at all it is mounted incorrectly, or there is something wrong with your mounting kit.
> 
> So....it's going to be hard to accurately gauge its performance when it is not correctly mounted.


I've mounted it correctly, the bars the right way. I don't know for sure but the way I see it, if any chip will indicate an issue my i4770k will, heat wise!


----------



## GrimDoctor

Also thank you to everyone that helped with suggestions to get it in there, so good to have a helpful community, repped you all


----------



## CrazyElf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Glad you asked. When I bought my R1 Ultimate I also purchased some "PROLIMA-TECH PK-3 because I didn't know TIM was included with the cooler, so I used the PK-3. I have been wondering if my TIM application and mount were bad because my load temps are a little higher than I expected. So when I do remount the cooler I may try the stock paste instead of the PK-3.
> 
> I should probably remount with PK-3 again, and then mount two times with stock paste to be fair.


I recommend keeping the PK-3. It and Gelid GC Extreme are among the best TIMs out there. Only things better are the liquid metal type TIMs which are electrically conductive.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> Thanks guys I eventually got it in by placed the back plate on something solid and pushing very hard.
> 
> The hardest install ever had on a cooler but it's on now. Fingers crossed my TIM application was good.
> 
> Once I OC I'll be able to compare to my NHD15. Thanks for all the help guys. Struggling yo quote and rep on my phone so I'll rep those that helped when I get my PC completely up and running


Just use a tiny dot of TIM and it should be good. Remember - less is more in this case.

Read these:
http://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Thermal-Paste-Application-Techniques-170/
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/What-is-the-Best-Way-to-Apply-Thermal-Grease/1303

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> I've mounted it correctly, the bars the right way. I don't know for sure but the way I see it, if any chip will indicate an issue my i4770k will, heat wise!


The only real way to get the 4770k to run much cooler under load is to delid. Bear in mind the risks (although vise method is relatively safe), but it can help by as much as 15-30C under load in some cases. That can lead to 200-300 MHz in some cases, particularly if you are using something like IBT for stability testing. Sadly 22nm CPUs are not soldered save for the E variants.









If you want to test, I'd recommend using something that is relatively cool that will stress out the CPU. x264 encoding is a good choice, as is file compression, and perhaps FLAC encoding.

Edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Has anyone Ultimate or Universal installed on mobo with 4 memory channels? I mean, mobo which has ram slots on both sides of the cpu? Does it fit? I am not going to have any high profile memories with heatspreader, "ordinary" only.


It fits just fine. I was using G.Skill TridentX. I have 32 GB installed, although I am using 3x 120mm Gentle Typhoons (so 1cm less each way). But seeing that you are not using high profile heat spreaders, it should not matter. It will fit. You will have to slide the fan up a bit for the front intake though.

Edit 2: I should note that I kept the red fins on the TridentX. It fit no problem.


----------



## GrimDoctor

@CrazyElf if it still OCs at the previous 4.5GHz on this cooler then I will be happy. So far so good. My new MB may allow higher with it's higher power phases but we shall see. I know I could delid but that clock is pretty decent on air IMO.


----------



## CrazyElf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> @CrazyElf if it still OCs at the previous 4.5GHz on this cooler then I will be happy. So far so good. My new MB may allow higher with it's higher power phases but we shall see. I know I could delid but that clock is pretty decent on air IMO.


What motherboard are you using? Asus Maximus VII Hero? I believe that comes with 8x D87350 Mosfets (http://www.ti.com/product/csd86350q5d), so that will not be a bottleneck.

By far the biggest bottleneck will be silicon lottery, not the motherboard. You should be fine though getting 4.5 GHz with no delid, and perhaps a bit more. It will be a bit hot though if you run something like IBT. Past 4.7 GHz though, you will likely have to delid.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-club-guide

It depends on whether your goal is to get a "good enough OC" or to try to squeeze every last bit of performance out. Judging by what you are saying though, it seems no delid is needed for you.


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyElf*
> 
> What motherboard are you using? Asus Maximus VII Hero? I believe that comes with 8x D87350 Mosfets (http://www.ti.com/product/csd86350q5d), so that will not be a bottleneck.
> 
> By far the biggest bottleneck will be silicon lottery, not the motherboard. You should be fine though getting 4.5 GHz with no delid, and perhaps a bit more. It will be a bit hot though if you run something like IBT. Past 4.7 GHz though, you will likely have to delid.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-club-guide
> 
> It depends on whether your goal is to get a "good enough OC" or to try to squeeze every last bit of performance out. Judging by what you are saying though, it seems no delid is needed for you.


I had a Maximus VII Hero but I've just moved over to the Z97 Deluxe, partially for cosmetic reasons - I wasn't game enough to paint the board in the end. Also I no longer use the ROG features and there is some better practically with the Deluxe for my use, eg, Power/Reset onboard buttons being at the bottom of the board and two on board USB 3.0 headers. These won't apply to everyone but it's useful to me.

I'm happy and the cooler is doing well so far.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

All this talk of delidding has me twmpted to do the same to mine, but I'll wait on my cryorig r1 before doing anything like that ^-^ Would be nice to push for say 4.8GHz though!


----------



## sq_a380

I am awaiting delivery of my CRYORIG R1 Ultimate!

Does anyone have experience with replacing the fans? I am thinking of replacing them with high performance ones like the Delta AFB1212SH.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sq_a380*
> 
> I am awaiting delivery of my CRYORIG R1 Ultimate!
> 
> Does anyone have experience with replacing the fans? I am thinking of replacing them with high performance ones like the Delta AFB1212SH.


I've mounted TY-147 and TY-143 fans on mine. No problems.


----------



## sq_a380

Looks great! What is the performance difference between these fans and the XF140s?


----------



## doyll

Haven't actually tested them, but performance is very close to the same. TY-147 will idle slower (650-1300rpm). New TY-147 A are even slower (300-1300rpm). If you want performance, TY-143 are 650-2500rpm. Same as TY-147 up to 1300rpm, but like Energizer Bunny, just keep on going.


----------



## underground1

for more pic...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










One and only cooler that suit with my build, huge but so nice


----------



## GrimDoctor

@underground1 that is one slick setup, ver nice


----------



## doyll

@underground1
Beautiful build.








The white on components really sets off the white case.
What are your idle and full load temps?
The back top fan may be more of a hindrance than help. It can't supply air to any component intakes and is mostly sucked out rear exhaust. This causes heated R1 exhaust to move down instead of out the rear exhaust. Removing unused PCIe slot covers may help improve airflow in that area .. depending on how many intakes you have.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

@underground1

Looks really, really good









I've seen a couple of builds now using an R1 that for me look even better then some custom loops!


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @underground1
> Beautiful build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white on components really sets off the white case.
> What are your idle and full load temps?
> The back top fan may be more of a hindrance than help. It can't supply air to any component intakes and is mostly sucked out rear exhaust. This causes heated R1 exhaust to move down instead of out the rear exhaust. Removing unused PCIe slot covers may help improve airflow in that area .. depending on how many intakes you have.


This is very true. I tried it, and my socket may have gone down slightly but the core stayed the same and the GPU went up. You can use the top for intake, just not the rear/top.


----------



## majnu

Ordered the r1 Ultimate after my h100 failed yet again. I'm done with AIO coolers and the Cryoirg looked good value/performance compared to the DH15 and Phantek tc14pe.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Ordered the r1 Ultimate after my h100 failed yet again. I'm done with AIO coolers and the Cryoirg looked good value/performance compared to the DH15 and Phantek tc14pe.


Sorry to hear about your h100 failing twice, ouch. I really like my R1 Ultimate, and as long as you don't need to push heavy OC's and your case has decent air flow, then I think you will also be very happy with it. It should do at least as well, likely even better than the h100. Keep us up to date, and let us know how things go.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Ordered the r1 Ultimate after my h100 failed yet again. I'm done with AIO coolers and the Cryoirg looked good value/performance compared to the DH15 and Phantek tc14pe.


R1 will cool at least as well as H100 and do it with much less noise.


----------



## Sepesusi

I had H100i before and now I get similar results with the R1 Universal. Difference being that the R1 is practically silent at idle and can rarely be heard even under load (I mostly game headphones on). My biggest problem with the H100i was the pump, I could tweak the fan profiles as much as I wanted (and they were silent at idle), but the pump could always be heard. That's what got me to make the switch back to air coolers.


----------



## sq_a380

Here are pics from the latest addition to my rig - the R1 Ultimate

Overview, as you can see I am running a rear intake configuration


I replaced the fans with the Delta AFB1212SH, seen here in Intake > Push > Mid configuration




Side profile


Looking upwards, I have 2x 120mm running on the top, rear one for intake and forward for exhaust


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sq_a380*
> 
> Here are pics from the latest addition to my rig - the R1 Ultimate
> 
> Overview, as you can see I am running a rear intake configuration
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2341151/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]
> 
> I replaced the fans with the Delta AFB1212SH, seen here in Intake > Push > Mid configuration
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Side profile
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking upwards, I have 2x 120mm running on the top, rear one for intake and forward for exhaust


Nice looking rig.








But the two top fans are most likely just circling much of their own air..


----------



## majnu

Not the best pics in the World but I've installed the R1 Ultimate in my 650D and Z77 Sabertooth motherboard. The fans do produce a whoosing type of sound, I guess Noctua lead the way in the low noise department.

Temp wise, I cannot say if there has been an improvement over the H100 as I de-lidded and applied some CLP tim to the my i53570k die which obviously resulted in a massive temperature drop so that recognition cannot be down to the cooler alone.

As I said in my last post for value/performance I found that the Cryorig was best for me, if the DH-15 was the same price I would have gone for that instead. But I am pleased with my purchase.

Installation was easier than I thought as everything comes pre-assembled. Tightening the grub screw down had to be done blind and I hope I did it right, whereby I felt some tension when screwing it down.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice looking rig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the two top fans are most likely just circling much of their own air..


Agreed on both points. The second being the more important, and the one with a more emphatic agreement.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Not the best pics in the World but I've installed the R1 Ultimate in my 650D and Z77 Sabertooth motherboard. The fans do produce a whoosing type of sound, I guess Noctua lead the way in the low noise department.
> 
> Temp wise, I cannot say if there has been an improvement over the H100 as I de-lidded and applied some CLP tim to the my i53570k die which obviously resulted in a massive temperature drop so that recognition cannot be down to the cooler alone.
> 
> As I said in my last post for value/performance I found that the Cryorig was best for me, if the DH-15 was the same price I would have gone for that instead. But I am pleased with my purchase.
> 
> Installation was easier than I thought as everything comes pre-assembled. Tightening the grub screw down had to be done blind and I hope I did it right, whereby I felt some tension when screwing it down.


I like Thermalright TY-140 series fans better than Noctua NF-A14 & NF-A15. Definitely as good if not better and much lower priced.

R1 cools every bit as well as NH-D15

As long as the screws threaded into their nuts a bunch of turns, then snugged up you are fine.


----------



## sq_a380

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice looking rig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the two top fans are most likely just circling much of their own air..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Agreed on both points. The second being the more important, and the one with a more emphatic agreement.


Thanks. My idea was for the top intake to supply air to the front of the cooler, and top exhaust to pull hot air from the back of the cooler.

Anyway rear intake does not seem to give me better temps. I am thinking of going back to the conventional front intake for my case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> As I said in my last post for value/performance I found that the Cryorig was best for me, if the DH-15 was the same price I would have gone for that instead. But I am pleased with my purchase]


Does the D15 perform better than the R1, given the same fans?


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sq_a380*
> 
> Does the D15 perform better than the R1, given the same fans?


No idea. I'm not going to spend extra on fans otherwise I would have gone for the DH15 as they perform about the same but obviously the Noctua in my region atleast was £25 more expensive.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sq_a380*
> 
> Thanks. My idea was for the top intake to supply air to the front of the cooler, and top exhaust to pull hot air from the back of the cooler.
> 
> Anyway rear intake does not seem to give me better temps. I am thinking of going back to the conventional front intake for my case.
> Does the D15 perform better than the R1, given the same fans?


Intake and exhaust fans side by side do this.


D15, all Silver Arrow variants, Cryorig R1 Ultimate and PH-TC14PE all perform near identical, same fans or not. There are a couple of reviews of NH-D15 and NH-D14 showing very similar results too, and I've seen one with both using same fans with NH-D14 0.7c better than NH-D15.


----------



## darealist

*Cryorig H7 @ 500 RPM (Dead silent) with 4790k*

Hours of Rome 2 and the temps are:


My previous Corsair h60 average around 66 degree celsius!


----------



## Emmexx

Would like to join the club as well







Love my R1 ultimate! I have a 1055t Phenom OC'd a bit to 3.4 and this keeps temps, at max I've tested, of 38C loaded.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmexx*
> 
> Would like to join the club as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love my R1 ultimate! I have a 1055t Phenom OC'd a bit to 3.4 and this keeps temps, at max I've tested, of 38C loaded.


Awesome man, it is a very nice cooler. You might even get a higher OC


----------



## Steve-S

That's one wicked triple CRYORIG R1 Ultimate. Almost half a AF41!


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> That's one wicked triple CRYORIG R1 Ultimate. Almost half a AF41!


Hey Steve-S! Any news of European availability on the QF 120 fans please?


----------



## GrimDoctor

My build log got featured by Cryorig. What an awesome bunch


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Not the best pics in the World but I've installed the R1 Ultimate in my 650D and Z77 Sabertooth motherboard. The fans do produce a whoosing type of sound, I guess Noctua lead the way in the low noise department.
> 
> Temp wise, I cannot say if there has been an improvement over the H100 as I de-lidded and applied some CLP tim to the my i53570k die which obviously resulted in a massive temperature drop so that recognition cannot be down to the cooler alone.
> 
> As I said in my last post for value/performance I found that the Cryorig was best for me, if the DH-15 was the same price I would have gone for that instead. But I am pleased with my purchase.
> 
> Installation was easier than I thought as everything comes pre-assembled. Tightening the grub screw down had to be done blind and I hope I did it right, whereby I felt some tension when screwing it down.


Nice build and good purchase!

Noctua's are pretty decent. I'm not a big fan of their heatsinks, but yes they have some pretty nice fans (albeit in funky colors.) The XT140 and XF140 use what I call blade shaped fan blades, instead of round torpedo like blades like the Thermalright TY series or some of Noctua's. We chose a blade shaped fan for the higher static pressure, which worked better with our heatsink fin design. But the draw back was a bit more noise from the blades cutting into air.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> My build log got featured by Cryorig. What an awesome bunch


Heya GrimDoctor, thank you for sharing the cool build! It would be nice if you had some tutorial on how you painted the frames! I hear a lot of people wanting to paint their CRYORIG frame/shrouds! Pobably we'll try to come out with a blank canvas shroud pack with no logo, for those people like yourself who know how to color stuff. And probably like a plastic sticker thing to place the logo on once you've done painting!

Commence Emergency Product Planing Meeting!


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> Hey Steve-S! Any news of European availability on the QF 120 fans please?


Heya! There are hundred of them in a boat almost there in Germany. Could take a few more weeks to hit store shelves.


----------



## Steve-S

If anyone's interested we're coming out with some nice TIM soon.


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Heya GrimDoctor, thank you for sharing the cool build! It would be nice if you had some tutorial on how you painted the frames! I hear a lot of people wanting to paint their CRYORIG frame/shrouds! Pobably we'll try to come out with a blank canvas shroud pack with no logo, for those people like yourself who know how to color stuff. And probably like a plastic sticker thing to place the logo on once you've done painting!
> 
> Commence Emergency Product Planing Meeting!


Thank you








I painted them in the same method shown for my fans but I could arrange something if need be. The key is thin coats and patience really. For the logo, I actually masked it a little but a sticker would work just as well. It wasn't anything special but let me know if you need anymore info


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Heya! There are hundred of them in a boat almost there in Germany. Could take a few more weeks to hit store shelves.


Cool, I'll keep an eye on Alternate. Thanks


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmexx*
> 
> Would like to join the club as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love my R1 ultimate! I have a 1055t Phenom OC'd a bit to 3.4 and this keeps temps, at max I've tested, of 38C loaded.


Nice build! Could you give us more details of what all it is?
Really like the 3x fan setup!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> That's one wicked triple CRYORIG R1 Ultimate. Almost half a AF41!


I measured up the AF41 and figured we will have to cut out the back of the case .. it will stick out the back and cover the RAM. Can't wait to try one. Is release date going to be 01-Apr-15?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> My build log got featured by Cryorig. What an awesome bunch


Congratulations!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> If anyone's interested we're coming out with some nice TIM soon.


TIM supplied with coolers is quite good as it is.









Black on clear and white on clear vinyl stickers would be great!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmexx*
> 
> Would like to join the club as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love my R1 ultimate! I have a 1055t Phenom OC'd a bit to 3.4 and this keeps temps, at max I've tested, of 38C loaded.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> That's one wicked triple CRYORIG R1 Ultimate. Almost half a AF41!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> My build log got featured by Cryorig. What an awesome bunch


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> If anyone's interested we're coming out with some nice TIM soon.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I painted them in the same method shown for my fans but I could arrange something if need be. The key is thin coats and patience really. For the logo, I actually masked it a little but a sticker would work just as well. It wasn't anything special but let me know if you need anymore info


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Heya GrimDoctor, thank you for sharing the cool build! It would be nice if you had some tutorial on how you painted the frames! I hear a lot of people wanting to paint their CRYORIG frame/shrouds! Pobably we'll try to come out with a blank canvas shroud pack with no logo, for those people like yourself who know how to color stuff. And probably like a plastic sticker thing to place the logo on once you've done painting!
> 
> Commence Emergency Product Planing Meeting!


Black logo on clear vinyl and white logo on clear vinyl would be great. Would look nice on case too .. maybe in different sizes?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Wooohooo, my R1 Ultimate is somewhere between Vancouver amd Edmonton now. No idea why Canada Post shipped it from Toronto to Vancouver and then towards where I live again, but so can't wait to have it in my case! ^-^

Also, grats on making their Facebook grim!

Edit:Wooohooo, its out for delivery so can't wait to get home today! ^-^ (also yay for spouses that are off so they can sign for said packages too! ^-^)


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> If anyone's interested we're coming out with some nice TIM soon.


I used the Holy Grail CLP with mine therefore didn't even use the one in the box, but it will be good to see how it stacks up against the competition. To be honest I'd rather Cryorig concentrate on reducing the fans sound signature and making it as quiet as possible whilst keeping the static pressure high as possible. Noctua proves that it can be done with their noise cancellation technology and have some great technology as demonstrated in Computex iirc. Additionally some copper diamond heat absorption plates would be great too (second video) but does look v expensive to manufacture

5:00 mins into both videos








I can understand why some people want different shroud colours to match their rigs and I think that would be a nice optional addition but cooling performance and fans will always have higher preference when choosing am Air Cooler for me.


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Wooohooo, my R1 Ultimate is somewhere between Vancouver amd Edmonton now. No idea why Canada Post shipped it from Toronto to Vancouver and then towards where I live again, but so can't wait to have it in my case! ^-^
> 
> Also, grats on making their Facebook grim!
> 
> Edit:Wooohooo, its out for delivery so can't wait to get home today! ^-^ (also yay for spouses that are off so they can sign for said packages too! ^-^)


Thanks! Which build is the R1 going in?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> Thanks! Which build is the R1 going in?


For now, JägerWulfe. Eventually it will go on Silent Heresy when it isn't under dice... Whenever I get Silent Heresy started ^_^;;; Apparently it's being held for pickup, since Canada Post has apparently forgotten how to use doorbells/buzzer systems. I'll have pics tonight ~if~ they'll release the package to me when I head over there in a bit, if not looks like I'll have to wait until at least tomorrow.


----------



## Emmexx

Thank you all for the welcome








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Awesome man, it is a very nice cooler. You might even get a higher OC


Agreed. I was trying to wait until I was fully satisfied with everything in the case and I'm close enough I think.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> That's one wicked triple CRYORIG R1 Ultimate. Almost half a AF41!


No complaint here









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice build! Could you give us more details of what all it is?
> Really like the 3x fan setup!


EVGA 750 G2 PSU, Asus M5A88-M mobo, 16GB Crucial Ballistix DDR3 ram, 512 ssd Crucial MX100, EVGA 970 with Arctic Acellero Xtreme 3 cooler, Avermedia pci-e, dual 3tb storage drives all in a Corsair 540 silver case







I turned the case so the window is facing up. The case has 3x120mm lepa fans in front, one in the bottom to bring air up directly to the psu(overkill maybe). 2x140mm aerocool on side, all intake. One aerocool 140mm for exhaust, directly behind my R1. Lots of positive pressure, but I like the essential air funnel the triple R1 fans create directly to the exhaust fan. Also have a couple noctua's in the bottom of the case that throw air directly under the mobo and cpu.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

So.... I now have this megalithic black box of doom with some silvery-chrome writing on it.... Obvious question time. Noctua NT-H1 or the thermal paste that came in the box?


----------



## Emmexx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> So.... I now have this megalithic black box of doom with some silvery-chrome writing on it.... Obvious question time. Noctua NT-H1 or the thermal paste that came in the box?


Congrats on your new cooler







Sorry I can't comment on the paste choices in front of you. I personally go with cooler master ice fusion. Easy white paste to spread and have used it for both my cpu and gpu.

Either way, best of wishes on installation!


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> So.... I now have this megalithic black box of doom with some silvery-chrome writing on it.... Obvious question time. Noctua NT-H1 or the thermal paste that came in the box?


I have both. I tried the Cryorig stuff, it's pretty good, id say on par. I need to reseat everything so I might test the Noctua with it now.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> I have both. I tried the Cryorig stuff, it's pretty good, id say on par. I need to reseat everything so I might test the Noctua with it now.


I probably should have run a few more tests instead of just XTU to compare so I don't really have any temperatures to compare with, but there is quite the noticeable difference in the sound my R1 Ultimate makes... In other words, my portion of the living room is EERILY QUIET. I can't really comment on temperature differences, but it sure seems like the R1 Ultimate is able to shed heat noticeably faster than my previous Thermaltake Frio Advanced. Part of the reason why I can't necessarily comment on temperatures is that my 4770K has a tendency of running hot and I probably really should delid it (then again, I am running it at 4.6GHz, 2.1VCCIN, 1.325Vcore, and 1.2Vring). It did definitely run several degrees cooler at stock (I must have bumped the reset bios switch when moving the board around, and at stock my 4770K was running 4-5C cooler in the bios than the previous cooler ran things)

I'll post pictures and a more detailed opinion tomorrow, as I'm just too darn tired now. I will comment that it was remarkably harder to install than the Thermaltake Frio Advanced, especially getting the cooler's second screw to catch 

Either way, I definitely like the cooler.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> So.... I now have this megalithic black box of doom with some silvery-chrome writing on it.... Obvious question time. Noctua NT-H1 or the thermal paste that came in the box?


Congrats!








I have used both and find no difference. How well the TIM print is makes more difference. Even more critical is the temp of air going into cooler compared to room temp. 2-3c is great, 5c is fine. But often it is 10-15c when GPU and CPU are both working hard .. and that is 5-10c hotter the CPU will be.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Congrats!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have used both and find no difference. How well the TIM print is makes more difference. Even more critical is the temp of air going into cooler compared to room temp. 2-3c is great, 5c is fine. But often it is 10-15c when GPU and CPU are both working hard .. and that is 5-10c hotter the CPU will be.


Good to know they seem to be on equal footing for thermal pastes. I am rather curious about one thing though: in the bios, it says my fans are running 1380rpm and 1440rpm or so, but once I get into Windows 7 HWMonitor states they're only spinning at 736 and 811rpm. I'm currently using both the CPU and CPU_OPT headers on my Z87X-OC, but it does feel odd that the two aren't agreeing. I have the CPU and CPU_OPT headers set to full speed in the BIOS. Is this discrepency normal, or is it a hidden setting I'm going to have to find to make it all play well?

EDIT: Used the splitter header and those same two fans listed in HWMonitor are showing the same thing, so I highly suspect those are my system fans. Oops. Well then, now I'm truly stumped as to whether or not I've set it up correctly *laughs nervously*

EDIT2: Using the splitter to plug both fans into the CPU_FAN header (which apparently is the only actual PWM fan plug on my board according to the internet) has provided remarkably better cooling performance than last night, although ambients are slightly different. Guess it truly was a case of plugging things in properly ^_^;;;;


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Good to know they seem to be on equal footing for thermal pastes. I am rather curious about one thing though: in the bios, it says my fans are running 1380rpm and 1440rpm or so, but once I get into Windows 7 HWMonitor states they're only spinning at 736 and 811rpm. I'm currently using both the CPU and CPU_OPT headers on my Z87X-OC, but it does feel odd that the two aren't agreeing. I have the CPU and CPU_OPT headers set to full speed in the BIOS. Is this discrepency normal, or is it a hidden setting I'm going to have to find to make it all play well?
> 
> EDIT: Used the splitter header and those same two fans listed in HWMonitor are showing the same thing, so I highly suspect those are my system fans. Oops. Well then, now I'm truly stumped as to whether or not I've set it up correctly *laughs nervously*
> 
> EDIT2: Using the splitter to plug both fans into the CPU_FAN header (which apparently is the only actual PWM fan plug on my board according to the internet) has provided remarkably better cooling performance than last night, although ambients are slightly different. Guess it truly was a case of plugging things in properly ^_^;;;;


LOL

Gotta love how accurate and detailed the documentation is on these motherboards .. NOT!!
Main thing is everything is running nice and cool.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> LOL
> 
> Gotta love how accurate and detailed the documentation is on these motherboards .. NOT!!
> Main thing is everything is running nice and cool.


Yeah, and how ~AMAZING~ the manual control is for fans... You have Auto, silent, full speed, and manual... Manual isn't in percentages, it's in ratios per PWM control.... Whatever that means. While I love the colours of the board (and especially the X99 versions!!) I've been tempted by other boards out there for when I upgrade. MSI's Xpower and the Asus Rampage V especially, although I don't really like the colours on either of them. The Gigabyte X99 SOC Champion ticks off a ~LOT~ of boxes in the right places for a benching rig though, and I do kind of want to keep the whole black/orange theme with my rigs going even if it isn't the most "original" out there.

And yes, it is running cooler under loads which is good, although it will probably take a week for myself and my husband to get over the loss of noise from the old cooler! ....Oh, and he wants one too now, even if it won't fit in his current case, the InWin Dragon Rider - not that he cares, we both run without side panels.

In other news, as mentioned earlier... How my R1 Ultimate looks!


Spoiler: For fun, my OCN exclusive shroud contest submission! And what it won for me!










Spoiler: Comparison against previous cooler






Yup, R1 Ultimate definitely wins not only on box size (I didn't measure it, but I swear the box that the R1 Ultimate cooler was in is bigger than the Frio Advance's entire packaging!), but also in looks and sexy tech appeal. Also, it isn't ugly as all sin!













Spoiler: R1 Ultimate by itself



Makeshift photobox time. My poor hubby, losing his comforter for half an hour that he was all comfortably tangled up in while watching tv!













I am DEFINITELY happy about my cooler!





^And obligatory not the best of shots but will have to do due to poor room lighting celery phone shots - one with the rig turned off, and one where it's powered on.

Only had to remove the bladed heatspreader from one of my TridentX DIMMs, which is good because the other one quickly got a stripped screw and I couldn't remove it!!


----------



## Aideron

Hello everyone!

First of all sorry for my english, it's been a while since i last used it actively :/
So i want to join the club! I'm searching for the perfect cooler for me and my pc, and when i first saw the R1 Ultimate and Universal i thought yea, that's it







But first i need some information. Well... if any of you guys willing to help me that would be great









And the questions:
First of all i can't decide between the two, is there a big difference in performance/noise between them? My problem is, that i have a white Nzxt H440 so i like the Uni becouse of the white brackets, but i want the Ultimate becouse of the better(?) performance, less noise, aand the Uni is out of stock now in our reseller. Do you guys know whether they will release painted brackets in the future? That would be perfect! My last question would be that, is there a noticable/big difference that the Uni has two different fans than the Ultimate?

Thank you in advance!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aideron*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> 
> First of all sorry for my english, it's been a while since i last used it actively :/
> So i want to join the club! I'm searching for the perfect cooler for me and my pc, and when i first saw the R1 Ultimate and Universal i thought yea, that's it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But first i need some information. Well... if any of you guys willing to help me that would be great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the questions:
> First of all i can't decide between the two, is there a big difference in performance/noise between them? My problem is, that i have a white Nzxt H440 so i like the Uni becouse of the white brackets, but i want the Ultimate becouse of the better(?) performance, less noise, aand the Uni is out of stock now in our reseller. Do you guys know whether they will release painted brackets in the future? That would be perfect! My last question would be that, is there a noticable/big difference that the Uni has two different fans than the Ultimate?
> 
> Thank you in advance!


Welcome!

The Universal only has one 25mm thick fan, the XT140. The XF140 is 13mm thick so probably doesn't move quite as much air, so will probably be 1-2c warmer under very heavy OC'ed stress testing. Probably not enough to worry about.

I have both and am running the Ultimate now. Will be running Universal in next couple of days, but I'm guessing there is very little difference. Probably none if both are running the same fans.


----------



## raist679

Hey guys. First post here in this thread. Not an owner yet, but not by choice. I have been trying to be patient in waiting for Newegg to get some stock in on the R1 Ultimate. I saw an earlier post from the rep where he said there was a shortage most everywhere. Has anyone mentioned a possible ETA on more units here in the states? It is the last part I'm trying to track down for my build. Heck at this point I would do about anything reasonable to get my hands on one?. Thanks in advance for the help.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raist679*
> 
> Hey guys. First post here in this thread. Not an owner yet, but not by choice. I have been trying to be patient in waiting for Newegg to get some stock in on the R1 Ultimate. I saw an earlier post from the rep where he said there was a shortage most everywhere. Has anyone mentioned a possible ETA on more units here in the states? It is the last part I'm trying to track down for my build. Heck at this point I would do about anything reasonable to get my hands on one?. Thanks in advance for the help.


I just received a phone call, our stock has passed customs inspection. Meaning 3 days tops, and our R1's will be back in stock at Newegg!
Get them while they last!


----------



## GrimDoctor

So @Steve-S must be the "fellow OCNer" from Facebook?


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Welcome!
> 
> The Universal only has one 25mm thick fan, the XT140. The XF140 is 13mm thick so probably doesn't move quite as much air, so will probably be 1-2c warmer under very heavy OC'ed stress testing. Probably not enough to worry about.
> 
> I have both and am running the Ultimate now. Will be running Universal in next couple of days, but I'm guessing there is very little difference. Probably none if both are running the same fans.




Doyll is right as always, the difference if marginal. And you won't be able to tell unless in the toughest testing environments.

I have added this to our FAQ section for anyone that cares to read it.

http://www.cryorig.com/prod_faq_detail.php?id=8


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> I just received a phone call, our stock has passed customs inspection. Meaning 3 days tops, and our R1's will be back in stock at Newegg!
> Get them while they last!


Any word on newegg.ca yet? Hubby wants one for his rig now ^-^;;;


----------



## ListenerFan

Does anyone know where I could find a C1 new or used in the United States?


----------



## pshootr

I have the R1 Ultimate, and I am not sure if it is pushing any air to my VRM/MB. Does the R1 do this?

Also with the third fan mounted, that fan sits basically up against my VRM-sink. Seems like that would restrict air flow, and possibly even insulate heat from the VRM?


----------



## doyll

0
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I have the R1 Ultimate, and I am not sure if it is pushing any air to my VRM/MB. Does the R1 do this?
> 
> Also with the third fan mounted, that fan sits basically up against my VRM-sink. Seems like that would restrict air flow, and possibly even insulate heat from the VRM?


What are your VRM temps?


----------



## Emmexx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I have the R1 Ultimate, and I am not sure if it is pushing any air to my VRM/MB. Does the R1 do this?
> 
> Also with the third fan mounted, that fan sits basically up against my VRM-sink. Seems like that would restrict air flow, and possibly even insulate heat from the VRM?


In the case of the mobo temp sensor, that seems to be the coolest part of my machine. Readings are constantly the coolest of anything, although that may also be in part to the 540 air case. However, the three fans and size of the cooler do inhibit any fans from the opposite side hitting the vram of a GPU, for example. My 970 temps increased by a couple Celsius when I went from low profile cooler to this one. However, the trade off with the CPU dropping to under 40C at load when it was hitting in the 50s before is a great tradeoff.

I have an IR temp gun I bought specifically to check vram temps of my GPU after putting an Accellero extreme III on the 970 to replace the loud evga stock cooler. VRAM temps there stay well below 60 at load (for the games I play). I absolutely love this cooler with the three fans.

Or did I not understand the question? Something else I could possibly check on my system?

Quick edit: My mobo temp shows 32C at load and the mobo heatsink is showing 44.3C at max on the IR gun. Considering the CPU is at 37C and GPU at 53C, I would call it a win, in all honesty, with the mobo heatsink sandwiched between the two.


----------



## raist679

I got my in stock notification from Newegg about 25 minutes ago and tried to hop on it immediately. They must have sold out nearly instantaneously. Hopefully I can snag one the next time around.


----------



## Emmexx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raist679*
> 
> I got my in stock notification from Newegg about 25 minutes ago and tried to hop on it immediately. They must have sold out nearly instantaneously. Hopefully I can snag one the next time around.


Damn! Hopefully, that was a small part of their inbound stock and the rest is still inbound. Slightly related, I just looked up the C1 for a possible itx future build and saw amazon had it for 219 but newegg still had it for 64. Quite the price difference.

Anywho, yeah, Cryorig has some awesome coolers. Reminds me of the 970 stock issues from a few months ago.


----------



## Shneiky

@Steve-S ,

I would like to ask about the price rise of R1 Ultimate in The Netherlands. The cooler had its price jump from 64 EUR (no shipment) to 90 EUR (no shipment) just after I grabbed my cooler. In the rest of EU the R1U was around 70 EUR while now it is around 80. For 70-75 EUR I am all up for recommending the R1, but 90 is a bit steep. Is this a temporal price fluctuation, or is it a permanent price increase?


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 0
> What are your VRM temps?


I still don't have a probe and my MB does not report the VRM temp, so I am unsure what the temp is. I just couldn't remember if the R1 has any fins for the VRM area or not. I kind of think it doesn't?

Soon I will be switching over to the "CHV-Z" MB as soon as I decide whether to migrate my OS, or do a clean install. It is currently setup on a bench with my old PII chip on it just for testing. I _think_ then I will be able to monitor VRM temps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmexx*
> 
> In the case of the mobo temp sensor, that seems to be the coolest part of my machine. Readings are constantly the coolest of anything, although that may also be in part to the 540 air case. However, the three fans and size of the cooler do inhibit any fans from the opposite side hitting the vram of a GPU, for example. My 970 temps increased by a couple Celsius when I went from low profile cooler to this one. However, the trade off with the CPU dropping to under 40C at load when it was hitting in the 50s before is a great tradeoff.
> 
> I have an IR temp gun I bought specifically to check vram temps of my GPU after putting an Accellero extreme III on the 970 to replace the loud evga stock cooler. VRAM temps there stay well below 60 at load (for the games I play). I absolutely love this cooler with the three fans.
> 
> Or did I not understand the question? Something else I could possibly check on my system?
> 
> Quick edit: My mobo temp shows 32C at load and the mobo heatsink is showing 44.3C at max on the IR gun. Considering the CPU is at 37C and GPU at 53C, I would call it a win, in all honesty, with the mobo heatsink sandwiched between the two.


I was never quite sure where the MB sensor was located. I think it may be located in diffrent places depending on what board. I still have not figured out where my MB sensor is located. It rarely reaches much above 40C so it must not be the NB or VRM.


----------



## raist679

For anyone interested it did finally show up in stock at newegg. I can't wait until mine arrives.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UF1H68938


----------



## Aideron

Thank you very much Steve and doyll!

I ordered the Universal, can't wait to use it


----------



## Emmexx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raist679*
> 
> I got my in stock notification from Newegg about 25 minutes ago and tried to hop on it immediately. They must have sold out nearly instantaneously. Hopefully I can snag one the next time around.


Its back as of this post

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UF1H68938&cm_re=cryorig-_-9SIA4UF1H68938-_-Product

Edit: NM! you already got it, Raist. Congrats


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> @Steve-S ,
> 
> I would like to ask about the price rise of R1 Ultimate in The Netherlands. The cooler had its price jump from 64 EUR (no shipment) to 90 EUR (no shipment) just after I grabbed my cooler. In the rest of EU the R1U was around 70 EUR while now it is around 80. For 70-75 EUR I am all up for recommending the R1, but 90 is a bit steep. Is this a temporal price fluctuation, or is it a permanent price increase?


Hi
About pricing in the Netherlands, currently the problem is that we don't have direct sales channels there. They get their stock from Germany, our central hub for goods. Meaning, price fluctuations happening in Germany due to either Euro devaluation or stock scarcity etc, leads to a ripple effect and a much larger increase in the Netherlands. This something that should return to normal after some time. Some countries and markets are just beginning to sell our brand. And for this period of time where only a few etailers are selling our goods, you'll see these types of issue pop up. Once availability is more wider spread, you'll see prices reflect our MSRP better.


----------



## Shneiky

@Steve-S,

Thank you for your reply. What is the MSRP that you expect in the EU zone once prices wind down? Will it be in 65-70 range or in the 70-75 range or higher? Of course, the VAT across the Euro zone varies between 19 and 21% or so.

On a side note (my personal opinion) - I honestly believe that an R1 Ultimate for around 70 EUR is a nice deal, and at 65 EUR is simply unbeatable. Noctua's go for 80-90, be quiet! Shadow Rock Pro 3 is around 80 and Phanteks for 80s, so a Cryorig R1 prices at 70 is a fast ticket to steal market share. I got mine for 64.90 with 2.45 shipping and nothing even comes close to that deal. At the time of my purchase I was going either for R1 or for Dark Rock Pro 3, but the price / performance was irresistible (+ the nice design). If the R1 Ult is 70 EUR or so (as in some countries) I do recommend it hands down. But at 90, I am having a hard time.

Cheers


----------



## GrimDoctor

My R1 Universal [Goldeneye Edition] is complete!




http://www.overclock.net/t/1536425/build-log-goldeneye-caselabs-mercury-s8-asus-z97-deluxe-asus-980-strix-cryorig-r1/390#post_23527872


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> @Steve-S,
> 
> Thank you for your reply. What is the MSRP that you expect in the EU zone once prices wind down? Will it be in 65-70 range or in the 70-75 range or higher? Of course, the VAT across the Euro zone varies between 19 and 21% or so.
> 
> On a side note (my personal opinion) - I honestly believe that an R1 Ultimate for around 70 EUR is a nice deal, and at 65 EUR is simply unbeatable. Noctua's go for 80-90, be quiet! Shadow Rock Pro 3 is around 80 and Phanteks for 80s, so a Cryorig R1 prices at 70 is a fast ticket to steal market share. I got mine for 64.90 with 2.45 shipping and nothing even comes close to that deal. At the time of my purchase I was going either for R1 or for Dark Rock Pro 3, but the price / performance was irresistible (+ the nice design). If the R1 Ult is 70 EUR or so (as in some countries) I do recommend it hands down. But at 90, I am having a hard time.
> 
> Cheers


For the EU market we initially release at around the 79 EUR mark, which fits our MSRP of 89 USD. Below 70 EUR is a bit tough for us and our partners since we're packing so many features and accessories







We wish we could do it, but we need to stay afloat some how, not exactly what consumers care about but it's true. Also, due to the crazy exchange rates of the Euro of the past year it was expected that prices would fluctuate so we were ok with it. Note that countries where we have first tier distributors like the UK, Germany, Poland, Spain and soon Italy, prices should reflect MSRP (give and take some due to taxes) and around 10~15% more in 2nd tier areas (importing from our 1st tier distys.) We are trying to expand our range of 1st tier distys but it will take some time.


----------



## Stirfry

This seems to be the best place to post this. I am putting together a new system and recently put a Cryorig C1 in my wife's mini-ITX build, and it is awesome. So I think I am going to go with another Cryorig for my new system. I am planning on the NZXT S340 and I want to know if anyone has put an H5 in it. NZXT says the maximum CPU cooler height is 161 mm and the H5 is 160. Technically it will fit....according to the documentation, but 1 mm is a very small amount. I wanted to know if anyone has actually done this combo. I would really appreciate any feedback anyone might have. Thanks!


----------



## Shneiky

@Steve-S ,

Thank you again for your insight. I do completely understand your situation. As the folktale goes "My kids don't eat a Thank you". You guys at Cryorig don't work for free. I just wanted to grasp an estimate on how the final price should be. You have your manufacturing costs, R&D and salaries to take care off. I do believe you that Cryorig's build quality and accessories are a reflection of such a price. Maybe your second iteration of the R1 with a degree or two increased performance and most importantly few db slashed off of the next line of XT and XF noise would put the R1 as the top cooler and N1 choice for the price. I honestly believe you will succeed. Good to have you as one of the top air cooling solutions producer. Got a bit tired of Noctua and Phanteks over the recent years. Keep going!

Cheers.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

@GrimDoctor thats a beautiful thing there, congrats!


----------



## doyll

Nicely done Grim Doctor!


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> @GrimDoctor thats a beautiful thing there, congrats!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nicely done Grim Doctor!


Thanks guys, I'm really happy about how it's come together


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> Thanks guys, I'm really happy about how it's come together


You should be, it looks great!

And I love the fact that you covered up those owl eyes on the Strix fans. What were they thinking with them?


----------



## pochiko

Hi

I gonna build a new system based on Asus X99 Deluxe motherboad. The system's theme is black and white, so R1 Universal will definitely look great in the system.
What worry me is LGA 2011-3 screw problem. Does the later batch of R1 Universal already come with the proper screw for the sockey or not?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pochiko*
> 
> Hi
> 
> I gonna build a new system based on Asus X99 Deluxe motherboad. The system's theme is black and white, so R1 Universal will definitely look great in the system.
> What worry me is LGA 2011-3 screw problem. Does the later batch of R1 Universal already come with the proper screw for the sockey or not?


Good question.

Steve-S should know the answer. Once you order the cooler you can request the 2011 kit as proof of order being made proves you are getting it.


----------



## Shneiky

So after 2 months with the R1 Ultimate, I run a new p95 today to find a pleasant surprise. I guess the paste needed some curing time of a sort. My 2700K at 4 GHz at V1.096 caps at 47C during large FFTs and 48 during Smal FFTs at the warmest core. The coolest core is 4 degrees lower. All of this with the fans at solid 670 RPM at 5V in a 20C room. This is 2-3C lower than what I had at the beginning.

Although I do blame my Z77 Extreme 6 for displaying incorrect vCore - the bug is know forever, that Z77 E6 shows 0.20 to 0.25 less vCore than it is actually applying. When I have some time I will change the Load Line Calibration to Level 2 which does show more correctly the VCore and reduce the voltage accordingly. My aim is to get 4.2 GHz full load, 4.5 GHz single core with fans at constant 5V while under 65C. I guess I hit the lowest possible for 4 GHz which is around 1.1 vCore, but I can get the 3.5 without the turbo lower.

I am sharing this for all the people on 2600K/2700K/3820K and those with 4820K should be not that far off. Though too bad I don't have a 6/8 cored I7 to post results. Will not be able to upgrade soon. Sigh.


----------



## sq_a380

I recently tried removing the third fan from my R1 ultimate (Delta AFB), and my temps improved by up to 6C. Any idea on why having one less fan gives me lower temps?


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sq_a380*
> 
> I recently tried removing the third fan from my R1 ultimate (Delta AFB), and my temps improved by up to 6C. Any idea on why having one less fan gives me lower temps?


Good question.

It is possible that the third fan is blocking air-flow around the VRM/socket area. It is also possible that while removing the fan you moved the cooler slightly and it is making better contact with the IHS as a result.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sq_a380*
> 
> I recently tried removing the third fan from my R1 ultimate (Delta AFB), and my temps improved by up to 6C. Any idea on why having one less fan gives me lower temps?


Quite simple really.

This is a perfect example of why when tuning the airflow in a new build I monitor cooler intake air temp. Also a perfect example of why I preach testers MUST MONITOR COOLER INTAKE AIR TEMP. While room temp is nice to know, cooler intake temp is what is important .. even critical.

The AFB was moving more air than case was removing .. thus the heated exhaust from R1 was contaminating the R1 intake air raising the intake air temp. Hotter air into cooler results in higher CPU temps. Links is sig might be of interest. They show the £4 thermometer and give quick explanation of how to tune case airflow.

There are other possibilities, but this is by far the most probable.


----------



## sq_a380

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Good question.
> 
> It is possible that the third fan is blocking air-flow around the VRM/socket area. It is also possible that while removing the fan you moved the cooler slightly and it is making better contact with the IHS as a result.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quite simple really.
> 
> This is a perfect example of why when tuning the airflow in a new build I monitor cooler intake air temp. Also a perfect example of why I preach testers MUST MONITOR COOLER INTAKE AIR TEMP. While room temp is nice to know, cooler intake temp is what is important .. even critical.
> 
> The AFB was moving more air than case was removing .. thus the heated exhaust from R1 was contaminating the R1 intake air raising the intake air temp. Hotter air into cooler results in higher CPU temps. Links is sig might be of interest. They show the £4 thermometer and give quick explanation of how to tune case airflow.
> 
> There are other possibilities, but this is by far the most probable.


Thanks for the suggestions.

I was under the impression that adding a third fan would boost exhaust of the cooler, especially with it pointing directly towards the exhaust of the case, not more than 8cm away. I have a CM jetflo that is running rear exhaust though and that might be a limiting factor in terms of exhaust airflow.

I don't think I moved the heatsink enough to create any temperature change during the fan removal, as it went pretty smoothly. I won't rule out that possibility, but I don't think the temperature difference would be that big.

I was thinking if it's possible that the large motor hub of the Delta was blocking precious heatloss from the centre of the heatsink?


----------



## doyll

If your rear vent fan is not moving as many CFM as the back cooler fan the added air of back cooler fan mixes with case air .. which warms it up .. which means it does not cool CPU as well .. which means CPU is hotter.

Every degree warmer the air gong into cooler is translates to a degree warmer the CPU will be. It's not one to one ratio, but pretty close.


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If your rear vent fan is not moving as many CFM as the back cooler fan the added air of back cooler fan mixes with case air .. which warms it up .. which means it does not cool CPU as well .. which means CPU is hotter.


Regarding the rear case fan, if that is the case, then its better not to put any fan at the exhaust, and just let the rear fan from the CPU cooler use as "exhaust?"


----------



## miklkit

That is my thinking and it works for me. I have 4 intake fans and no exhaust fans unless you count the cpu cooler fans, which blow out a hole in the back of the case.


----------



## doyll

I've done this myself many times.

But the basic problem is the case needs to flow more air than the combined total of all components inside the case .. and that flow needs to be removing the component heated air from case without it contaminating the cool air going to components. Often not an easy task to accomplish .. especially when component fans are temperature controlled and case fans are fixed speed or manually controlled.

SOP for me is to control case fan speed the same way component fans are. This allows case airflow to automatically match the demands of components at whatever heat / load / speed the system is running .. but as already stated, often not an easy task. I believe in monitoring the component intake air temps with a temperature probe used in multiple places at different heat / load / speeds to make sure the coolest possible air is flowing to component.

This also needs to be done with case intakes, especially if case is setting under a desk, against a wall, etc. It is not uncommon for the heated case exhaust to contaminate the case intake air and thus raise the air temp going into case.

I know, I'm repeating myself. But I think it's important enough to repeat.


----------



## ewgrosschris

I just installed a C1 in a rosewill V3S-B case. Also in the case is a Silverstone SSF power supply. Currently I'm idling at 56C (AMD A10-7850K) in the bios with no operating system installed.

I currently have the c1 fan being used to pull in air from above the heatsink down towards the cpu. And the PSU set to suck in clean air from the outside and expel through the back. Is this the correct way to have this done?

Please not I'm just sitting in the bios as I just finished building the PC.


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ewgrosschris*
> 
> I just installed a C1 in a rosewill V3S-B case. Also in the case is a Silverstone SSF power supply. Currently I'm idling at 56C (AMD A10-7850K) in the bios with no operating system installed.
> 
> I currently have the c1 fan being used to pull in air from above the heatsink down towards the cpu. And the PSU set to suck in clean air from the outside and expel through the back. Is this the correct way to have this done?
> 
> Please not I'm just sitting in the bios as I just finished building the PC.


What bios/uefi motherboard are you using? Might need to force the header to be PWM in there.


----------



## ewgrosschris

I'm using GigaByte FA-f2a88XN-wifi.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128663

The fan is spinning.

EDIT: Flipped around PSU to where it is sucking in air from outside the case and out through the back. The C1 is still pulling down across the heatsink. Sitting at 60degrees in Gigabyte bios. No OS or updates or Drivers done yet.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ewgrosschris*
> 
> I'm using GigaByte FA-f2a88XN-wifi.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128663
> 
> The fan is spinning.
> 
> EDIT: Flipped around PSU to where it is sucking in air from outside the case and out through the back. The C1 is still pulling down across the heatsink. Sitting at 60degrees in Gigabyte bios. No OS or updates or Drivers done yet.


Sorry if it sounds obvious, but have you tried remounting the cooler? What method did you use to put on the TIM?

I can't seem to find your case anywhere, can you provide a link to it? Might also help to know if you have any extra fans installed and in which positions.

Honestly doesnt sound like an airflow problem to me though with idle temps that extremely high, so I would keep your PSU taking air from the outside anyway as thats how it's intended normally in modern cases.


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> Sorry if it sounds obvious, but have you tried remounting the cooler? What method did you use to put on the TIM?
> 
> I can't seem to find your case anywhere, can you provide a link to it? Might also help to know if you have any extra fans installed and in which positions.
> 
> Honestly doesnt sound like an airflow problem to me though with idle temps that extremely high, so I would keep your PSU taking air from the outside anyway as thats how it's intended normally in modern cases.


@ewgrosschris that's what I was starting to think. TIM without good coverage can cause some high heat quite easily. Also it sounds like you are working in a small case so general airflow and it's direction might also be coming into play. As Slink said, links or even better, pics of your case would help to get you a better answer


----------



## ewgrosschris

I am using this Case. CASE

I've been working on this for 6 hours now. I can't get the temps to a normal state. The side panel has been left off. I've reseated the CPU Cooler.

This is a nightmare.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ewgrosschris*
> 
> I am using this Case. CASE
> 
> I've been working on this for 6 hours now. I can't get the temps to a normal state. The side panel has been left off. I've reseated the CPU Cooler.
> 
> This is a nightmare.


I wouldnt have imagined that you would be getting such high temps there at idle even with bad airflow. How much TIM have you used? Less is always better then more and when you remount you need to clean everything off with 90% + alcohol and re-apply new TIM. Using the same again will not achieve anything. Also are you sure you have the backplate and other mounting parts connected correctly according to the instructions. Dont mean to sound patronizing but it's best to be sure.

If none of that helps have you tried making the fan on the cooler pull air away from the motherboard? Looks like your case doesnt have any other fans in there at all? If so the downdraft will keep recycling the warm air again and again even with the side off, might help.

Teething problems stick at it. Thats a nice looking little case you have there I'm putting together an ITX buidl myself and I would have considered that myself if I could have got it easily in Europe.


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ewgrosschris*
> 
> I am using this Case. CASE
> 
> I've been working on this for 6 hours now. I can't get the temps to a normal state. The side panel has been left off. I've reseated the CPU Cooler.
> 
> This is a nightmare.


Hmm...there is not much room for airflow in that without modding it. Everything would be so tight and restrictive in there, I think modding, say the top for a fan, might be the only way to improve it or if there is room use the vent holes on the side to screw a fans to it with a nut and bolt forcing air in and then hoping that the rear vents will allow enough exhaust. This is a tough one bud.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> Hmm...there is not much room for airflow in that without modding it. Everything would be so tight and restrictive in there, I think modding, say the top for a fan, might be the only way to improve it or if there is room use the vent holes on the side to screw a fans to it with a nut and bolt forcing air in and then hoping that the rear vents will allow enough exhaust. This is a tough one bud.


Hmm no offence intended mate, but I have to say that it's a tiny MITX case. It's going to be restictive and tight with worse airflow then a larger case that's the compromise for the smaller form factor. Sure putting more fans will help in the long run but if I turn all the fans off in my case on fan controller I'm still idling at max 10-12 c over room temp with 0 airflow at idle.

That said temps at 60C are unreasonably high at idle in the BIOS even given poor airflow that's why I have my doubts its 100% an airflow issue.









EDIT @ewgrosschris Just checking that you have the case in a well ventilated space, not stuck in a cubby with the door closed for example ?


----------



## ciarlatano

Certainly sounds like a mounting issue, not an airflow issue.

Ridiculous question - did you remember to remove the plastic from the contact block before mounting?


----------



## miklkit

Holy guacamole! That cpu with the stock cooler hits 45C under full load in my brothers mid tower case. My wife has a single tower on hers and it hits 30C under full load.


----------



## ewgrosschris

The case has the side panel off and is sitting next to a pretty cold outside window. I think I may have used to much thermal compound? Is that TIM? That's the only other thing I can think of. I kind of think it's a possibility the base of the C1 doesn't sit on top of the standoffs properly. But there are others that have used this cooler with the same motherboard. Today I'm going to reapply everything and try again if not. I'll try the stock cooler and see what temps I'm getting.

If all that fails maybe RMA the APU?


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ewgrosschris*
> 
> The case has the side panel off and is sitting next to a pretty cold outside window. I think I may have used to much thermal compound? Is that TIM? That's the only other thing I can think of. I kind of think it's a possibility the base of the C1 doesn't sit on top of the standoffs properly. But there are others that have used this cooler with the same motherboard. Today I'm going to reapply everything and try again if not. I'll try the stock cooler and see what temps I'm getting.
> 
> If all that fails maybe RMA the APU?


Yes TIM = Thermal Interface Matierial you only need a tiny dot in the middle, although people have there own methods I just put a grain of rice sized amount in the middle of the clean CPU and make sure I mount the cooler nice and straight down.

That said your temps are so high I cant help but think you either have something wrong with the way you've mounted the cooler fittings, or something wrong with the cooler heatsink, mounting kit or APU itself. I would suspect the APU last personally.

After that I think you have the right idea


----------



## doyll

As a suggestion, try removing motherboard from case, place it on a piece of cardboard mount the cooler and test it.


----------



## GrimDoctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> Hmm no offence intended mate, but I have to say that it's a tiny MITX case. It's going to be restictive and tight with worse airflow then a larger case that's the compromise for the smaller form factor. Sure putting more fans will help in the long run but if I turn all the fans off in my case on fan controller I'm still idling at max 10-12 c over room temp with 0 airflow at idle.
> 
> That said temps at 60C are unreasonably high at idle in the BIOS even given poor airflow that's why I have my doubts its 100% an airflow issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT @ewgrosschris Just checking that you have the case in a well ventilated space, not stuck in a cubby with the door closed for example ?


Didn't say it was 100% the issue. With the limited info given I was trying to think of possibilities and he already said he remounted so this was the next logical step to consider IMO. Hope he sorts it anyway.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrimDoctor*
> 
> Didn't say it was 100% the issue. With the limited info given I was trying to think of possibilities and he already said he remounted so this was the next logical step to consider IMO. Hope he sorts it anyway.


As I say no offence intended just pointed out what I thought, I just realized I inadvertently parroted your 'hmmm' and that may have come out as snarky. Wasn't meant that way soz


----------



## ewgrosschris

Just totally rebuilt the PC. Cleaned off all paste. Put stock cooler On with new paste. Not much difference. I think I'm about done with AMD. I had no issues with my previous i5 4690K

I'm also getting different readings between programs.

Capture.PNG 44k .PNG file


----------



## pshootr

Hello guys and gals. I got my fans and have installed them in a standard fashion for now, and did a ten pass IBT test to show CPU temp. Little toasty, what do you guys think?

CPU speed: 4.7GHz
Vcore: 1.392v Idle - 1.42v Load
Ambient temp: 77C (It is not cold here like it was a few days ago for my previous testing at 4.8)

CPU cooler: R1 Ultimate with 3 fans.

Case Fans:

Intake:
200mm Front
140MM Bottom

Exhaust:
140mm Rear
140mm x3 Top

120mm HDD cage



Edit:

I put 2x cpu fans on a splitter connected to the readable port on the Phanteks hub, I think that is why HWmonitor is not showing the correct fan speed for cpu. They should be spinning at around 1300RPM.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Hello guys and gals. I got my fans and have installed them in a standard fashion for now, and did a ten pass IBT test to show CPU temp. Little toasty, what do you guys think?
> 
> CPU speed: 4.7GHz
> Vcore: 1.392v Idle - 1.42v Load
> Ambient temp: 77C (It is not cold here like it was a few days ago for my previous testing at 4.8)


Out of curiosity, you meant 77F right? Ambients of 77C (170F) would be 19C higher than the highest recorded temperature ever recorded in the Lybian desert







Either that, or your PC is in your oven


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Out of curiosity, you meant 77F right? Ambients of 77C (170F) would be 19C higher than the highest recorded temperature ever recorded in the Lybian desert
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Either that, or your PC is in your oven


lmao, yes! I did mean 77F







Oopsie..


----------



## miklkit

You are running 18C too hot for that voltage. I suspect case air flow. Those three top fans stick out like a sore thumb. Try flipping the front one to intake and unplugging the other two and see how it runs. Doyll can give you more specific guidance.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> You are running 18C too hot for that voltage. I suspect case air flow. Those three top fans stick out like a sore thumb. Try flipping the front one to intake and unplugging the other two and see how it runs. Doyll can give you more specific guidance.


That\s about it. Bottom, front and front vent in top in, back out and let the intake fans flow the rest of air out other vents in back and top. Good fans don't need to be both intake and exhaust .. same as coolers. They have enough force (static pressure) to flow the air through the case .. same as coolers.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> You are running 18C too hot for that voltage. I suspect case air flow. Those three top fans stick out like a sore thumb. Try flipping the front one to intake and unplugging the other two and see how it runs. Doyll can give you more specific guidance.


Ya, I also feel it is running a lot hotter than it should be. I think the next config will be with the top/front as intake (as I mentioned in a previous post), and after a test I will then unplug the other top fans and test again. I will also try other things to as time permits.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> That\s about it. Bottom, front and front vent in top in, back out and let the intake fans flow the rest of air out other vents in back and top. Good fans don't need to be both intake and exhaust .. same as coolers. They have enough force (static pressure) to flow the air through the case .. same as coolers.


I really like the idea of having positive pressure so that the only intake is through filters. But I was concerned about not getting heat out fast enough. I have a lot of testing to do, should be fun. I have ordered some probes too, can't wait to receive them.

Thanks guys


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I really like the idea of having positive pressure so that the only intake is through filters. But I was concerned about not getting heat out fast enough. I have a lot of testing to do, should be fun. I have ordered some probes too, can't wait to receive them.
> 
> Thanks guys


Just remember the case can only flow the lesser of intake airflow or exhaust airflow.
The intake and exhaust airflow is dictated by their area, the restriction (filters, grills), and capability of fans used.
As long as the intake flow capability is slightly higher than exhaust, air will be leaking out of case rather than leaking into case to balance the pressure differential.

What flows into case MUST FLOW OUT!
What flows out of case MUST FLOW IN!
You know this, others may not.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ewgrosschris*
> 
> Just totally rebuilt the PC. Cleaned off all paste. Put stock cooler On with new paste. Not much difference. I think I'm about done with AMD. I had no issues with my previous i5 4690K
> 
> I'm also getting different readings between programs.
> 
> Capture.PNG 44k .PNG file


My suggestion would be to take out the MB and test everything in open air. Removing variables one by one is the only way to do a thorough trouble shoot.
Did you write in to our support team about this question a few days ago?


----------



## doyll

Hi Steve!
I knew you were lurking about keeping an eye on things..


----------



## ewgrosschris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> My suggestion would be to take out the MB and test everything in open air. Removing variables one by one is the only way to do a thorough trouble shoot.
> 
> Did you write in to our support team about this question a few days ago?


I did not write the support team. I admitted defeat and RMA'd my entire build until I research more and have funds for a different build.

After boxing everything back up. I noticed my motherboard was clearance item yes. But it was also used. I'm thinking it was an open box item due to some issue.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Hi Steve!
> I knew you were lurking about keeping an eye on things..


I try to, but the forums are much too active to wait for my slow replies. Good thing we have pro-users helping each other out!


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ewgrosschris*
> 
> I did not write the support team. I admitted defeat and RMA'd my entire build until I research more and have funds for a different build.
> 
> After boxing everything back up. I noticed my motherboard was clearance item yes. But it was also used. I'm thinking it was an open box item due to some issue.


Sad to hear that you had to go through all that. I hate returning stuff. Hopefully the next lot of gear will all be flawless.

Also, for ITX boards, a lot of manufacturers take short cuts to save space and put some IC's or capacitors on the back side of the board. Our backplate and mounting kit follow Intel/AMD design regulations to the word. But sometimes these back components exceed the height limit set by Intel/AMD. In some cases it might cause our backplate to interfere. In theses cases our suggestion is to add plastic washers to the base of our backplate screw pillars, so that the backplate is elevated and can dodge interference with this components. The drawback is that you're adding a bit of mounting force to the kit, but will still be within safe ranges based on mainboard regulation. Our calcuation is that two plastic washers are the limit. But actually added force = better temps, but you never want to over do it and damage the board and socket.


----------



## faizreds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> I try to, but the forums are much too active to wait for my slow replies. Good thing we have pro-users helping each other out!


Do you know where can i buy cryorig cpu cooler in Malaysia?


----------



## Nejihyuga

Just got my R1 and 2x QF120 installed in a Bitfenix itx on a Asus Z97i-Plus, tight fit for R1 in that case. But it fit!








So kudos to Cryorig for making amazing products and including everything you need!


----------



## Paranoia

My first Cryorig...H7...the coolest (no pun intended) cooler I've seen imo...


----------



## pshootr

I bought an extra XF140 to use on my R1 and just realized it is only spinning at 1000RPM









I don't think I want to ship it from the USA to Asia for an RMA









The warranty on these fans are great, but is it really worth the shipping? I have no idea of the shipping cost, but I'm guessing its not cheap.

I have a feeling it has been like this from the start. I just recently hooked it up to a header with RPM readout.


----------



## miklkit

Maybe you need to get a molex to pwm adapter cable because the motherboard can't power all those fans properly. I had to do that.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I bought an extra XF140 to use on my R1 and just realized it is only spinning at 1000RPM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think I want to ship it from the USA to Asia for an RMA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The warranty on these fans are great, but is it really worth the shipping? I have no idea of the shipping cost, but I'm guessing its not cheap.
> 
> I have a feeling it has been like this from the start. I just recently hooked it up to a header with RPM readout.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Maybe you need to get a molex to pwm adapter cable because the motherboard can't power all those fans properly. I had to do that.


Miklkit is likely correct. Didn't you switch to an ASRock board? You need to keep in mind that the niceties are not going to match up to your Asus, and fan headers are one of those niceties.

Those three fans should be run off the same PWM signal in the first place for consistency. A Swiftech PWM splitter is a great inexpensive solution to your problem.
http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter-sata.aspx


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Maybe you need to get a molex to pwm adapter cable because the motherboard can't power all those fans properly. I had to do that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Miklkit is likely correct. Didn't you switch to an ASRock board? You need to keep in mind that the niceties are not going to match up to your Asus, and fan headers are one of those niceties.
> 
> Those three fans should be run off the same PWM signal in the first place for consistency. A Swiftech PWM splitter is a great inexpensive solution to your problem.
> http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter-sata.aspx


I switched "from" an ASrock board "to" an Asus CHVFZ. (The fan headers on my ASrock board work well actually) My ASrock Fatality Pro is a great board actually, it just lacks some bios features for power delivery, and the aditional 4 pin for the CPU.

I'm using the Phanteks PWM HUB for all 3 fans hooked up to my CHVFZ. The XF-140 I bought is plugged in to port #1 on the HUB so its RPM can be read. Its rotation even looks different than the stock fans.

When a different fan is connected to port #1 on the HUB, I see 1300RPM

But thanks for the ideas.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I'm using the Phanteks PWM HUB for all 3 fans hooked up to my CHVFZ. The XF-140 I bought is plugged in to port #1 on the HUB so the RPM can be read. Its rotation even looks different than the stock fans.


The other fans read differently in port 1? You may well have a bad fan.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The other fans read differently in port 1? You may well have a bad fan.


Ya, it does seem to be a bad fan. I will do another test to make sure but I am almost certain that the fan has a bad voltage regulator or something. The XF-140 is not cheap either.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faizreds*
> 
> Do you know where can i buy cryorig cpu cooler in Malaysia?


You're in luck, we have a new partnership with http://www.idealtech.com.my/
They will be carrying our full line of products beginning March~April.

Contact them for more info!


----------



## faizreds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> You're in luck, we have a new partnership with http://www.idealtech.com.my/
> They will be carrying our full line of products beginning March~April.
> 
> Contact them for more info!


Thanks for the info.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nejihyuga*
> 
> Just got my R1 and 2x QF120 installed in a Bitfenix itx on a Asus Z97i-Plus, tight fit for R1 in that case. But it fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So kudos to Cryorig for making amazing products and including everything you need!


I kudos your kudos, and kudos for supporting our brand!


----------



## EdTheHead

Got my R1 Universal in last week, installing it tomorrow once the rest of my parts arrive!

Love the color on the fans


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Ya, it does seem to be a bad fan. I will do another test to make sure but I am almost certain that the fan has a bad voltage regulator or something. The XF-140 is not cheap either.


Hi @pshootr I can't rule out the possibility of it being a bad fan. But I have to say that this is one of the odder problems I have heard of. One test you can do, is to use the the molex to 4 pin PWM adapter included in the XF140, and connect the third cable pin to your fan hub. The third cable on a 4 pin PWM fan is the RPM tachometer signal wire. It could be an issue of the fan not getting enough juice from the hub?



http://www.ixtreme.net/attachments/other-hacks/7628d1385476386-pc-pwm-fan-mod-slim-help-pwmcolors.png

The most common problems with fans beside damaged bearings, are either non reporting RPM, not spinning at all or fan always spinning at full speed.
Very rarely do you see the fan stuck at a certain speed like 1k rpm (arrond 70~80% PWM.)


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I switched "from" an ASrock board "to" an Asus CHVFZ. (The fan headers on my ASrock board work well actually) My ASrock Fatality Pro is a great board actually, it just lacks some bios features for power delivery, and the aditional 4 pin for the CPU.
> 
> I'm using the Phanteks PWM HUB for all 3 fans hooked up to my CHVFZ. The XF-140 I bought is plugged in to port #1 on the HUB so its RPM can be read. Its rotation even looks different than the stock fans.
> 
> When a different fan is connected to port #1 on the HUB, I see 1300RPM
> 
> But thanks for the ideas.


Correct me if I am mistaken, but I thought that Phanteks hub took 3 pin fans and uses a PWM signal to control them by converting PWM to voltage? If so, and you have actually hooked up the XF-140 PWM fan to it, then you are likely feeding it less than 12V at anything other than 100% PWM which isn't great if the fan isn't designed to run at anything other than 12 V.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Correct me if I am mistaken, but I thought that Phanteks hub took 3 pin fans and uses a PWM signal to control them by converting PWM to voltage? If so, and you have actually hooked up the XF-140 PWM fan to it, then you are likely feeding it less than 12V at anything other than 100% PWM which isn't great if the fan isn't designed to run at anything other than 12 V.


That's kinda what it does. It does not convert the PWM to voltage, but uses the PWM signal to adjust the 12v power to control the 3-pin fan's speed. I'm not sure if it pulses the 12 volt or actually reduces the voltage. I just got one of the Phanteks PWM controlled hubs to test and try and figure out exactly how it works .. changing voltage or pulsing the 12 volt.


----------



## Shneiky

So I got to 4.2 GHz with all the power saving features stable and running. Got a NZXT Sentry Mix 2 and hook up everything. The Cryorig fans are now at least few db lower (can't really measure but the difference is noticeable) since the fan controller runs them quieter than my ASrock motherboard can. The weird thing is:

1 - I got HAF 912+ with 2 12 cm be quiet! Shadow Wings 500-800 RPM as intakes, 1 12cm Silent Wings2 800-1500 RPM as rear exhaust, another one as a top-rear exhaust and another Shadow Wings 500-800 as another exhaust.
2 - All those 5 fans are connected to NZXT SentryMix2. My R1 Ultimate is connected to the fan controller as well. All good there.
3 - When I run P95 - CPU temps go to 53C at the hottest core. All fans on lowest RPM
4 - I put all exhaust on Max RPM - temps rise to 54C
5 - I put all exhausts on lowest and the R1 on maximum - 50C.
6 - I put R1 on maximum and exhaust fans on maximum - 50/51C
7 - intake fan speed has no impact (not that I was even thinking there would be one, since i have strong negative pressure)

Maybe doyll can give me an explanation. Why when I take the exhaust RPM up, CPU temps go up, regardless of the R1 fans speed. I am rather interested in this. Not that it is a problem for me, but I am just itching to know. Never had such an occurrence before, is there something in the R1 design that I am missing?


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Hi @pshootr I can't rule out the possibility of it being a bad fan. But I have to say that this is one of the odder problems I have heard of. One test you can do, is to use the the molex to 4 pin PWM adapter included in the XF140, and connect the third cable pin to your fan hub. The third cable on a 4 pin PWM fan is the RPM tachometer signal wire. It could be an issue of the fan not getting enough juice from the hub?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ixtreme.net/attachments/other-hacks/7628d1385476386-pc-pwm-fan-mod-slim-help-pwmcolors.png
> 
> The most common problems with fans beside damaged bearings, are either non reporting RPM, not spinning at all or fan always spinning at full speed.
> Very rarely do you see the fan stuck at a certain speed like 1k rpm (arrond 70~80% PWM.)


Hi Steve, thanks for the suggestion. The molex to 4 pin connector only has 2 wires on it though. I have connected other fans to the 1st port on the hub and they spin up just fine. The XF-140 that I purchased to use as a third fan on my cooler is the only fan that will not spin past around 1050 RPM. The hub is powering any other fan just fine. But just for giggles, I will try plugging the problem fan in to a fan header on the motherboard to see if it responds any better, but I suspect it won't.


----------



## VSG

Doyll, time to add in the QF120 maybe?




























C1, R1 Ultimate and H7 in the house as well now


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Doyll, time to add in the QF120 maybe?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> C1, R1 Ultimate and H7 in the house as well now


Where do you want it put?
And no, it won't fit where you are thinking.


----------



## VSG

LOL









I was referring to the thread title


----------



## Dibbler

Hi

I'm looking to get either the Cryorig R1 Ultimate (preferred) or the Universal cooler.

I have noted this in regards to the RAM height clearance of them both....



....the Universal has no restrictions but seems to cost around a fiver more and perhaps has marginally less good results than the Ultimate.

In the above table it shows the RAM height limit of the Ultimate at 30-35mm but does that mean it is measured when the RAM is placed into the slots or when the RAM is out of the slot and measured from its base to the top of it...?

I hope that makes sense...?!

The height of the sticks only...



The memory that I'm using in my Gigabyte Z77 UD5H board are...

Ballistix Tactical BLT2CP8G3D1608DT1TX0CEU 16GB kit (8GB x 2) DDR3 PC3-12800

http://postimg.org/image/49lxlbr9v/

....so I am hoping that the Ultimate will fit as they measure 38mm from the base of the board to the top of the small heat spreader when fitted.

Overall the R1 Ultimate (look, cost and performance considerations) seems to be the most appealing of the many air coolers to buy. Not sure if it could be used (Ultimate) in a pull pull config though if I would need to...?

I am using a NZXT 630 Phantom Ultra Tower Case.

Thanks for any advice


----------



## EdTheHead

If you are not entirely sure, cryorig has an origami cutout on their website that you can fold up and see firsthand how the coolers fit on your motherboard.

As far as the differences between the ultimate and universal, in my research, yes the ultimate performs better, but it is very marginal. My decision came down based on color and RAM clearance, thus I went with the universal. I hope this helps your choice.


----------



## Dibbler

Many thanks for that









I had hoped for some form of template but could not find one and after your post I then found the origami type....

http://www.cryorig.com/r1-ultimate.php#tester

....time to play









Aesthetics, and considering that the Universal is more expensive - but marginal, I would prefer the Ultimate version if it could fit.

The alternative, for me, wound be the Dark Pro 3 as that seems to be quite adaptable for RAM clearances (and cheaper again).


----------



## Seville Orange

Hello Cryorig owners,

I'm looking at the newest H7 universal cooler (need something under 150mm tall) so before I wade through all 116 pages of this thread, can any anyone give me a idea of how happy people are with the build quality of their Cryorig heatsinks?

Lately I've used a few Themalrights and quite honestly I'm getting really p'd off with their wonky, crooked towers and god awful fans. I thought Cryorig might be the answer until I read a review complaining of the same sort of problem i.e. once installed the tower rests at a distinct angle relative to the motherboard. Maybe it's not surprising that Thermalright and Cryorig share similar build quality issues, I believe the designers are ex Thermalright and presumably they contract the same factory to do the manufacturing.

Anyone here got a wonky Cryorig tower? or do the retail purchased units seem be mostly OK?


----------



## EdTheHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dibbler*
> 
> Many thanks for that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had hoped for some form of template but could not find one and after your post I then found the origami type....
> 
> http://www.cryorig.com/r1-ultimate.php#tester
> 
> ....time to play
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aesthetics, and considering that the Universal is more expensive - but marginal, I would prefer the Ultimate version if it could fit.
> 
> The alternative, for me, wound be the Dark Pro 3 as that seems to be quite adaptable for RAM clearances (and cheaper again).


Glad to be of help. Yes, I agree with you, i do like the black on the ultimate. I ended up choosing the universal and am going with a black/white theme for my build


----------



## VSG

I have three heatsinks from them (R1 Ultimate, C1 and H7) and all three have been flawless as far as I can tell.


----------



## EdTheHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seville Orange*
> 
> Hello Cryorig owners,
> 
> I'm looking at the newest H7 universal cooler (need something under 150mm tall) so before I wade through all 116 pages of this thread, can any anyone give me a ideal of how happy people are with the build quality of their Cryorig heatsinks?
> 
> Lately I've used a few Themalrights and quite honestly I'm getting really p'd off with their wonky, crooked towers and god awful fans. I thought Cryorig might be the answer until I read a review complaining of the same sort of problem i.e. once installed the tower rests at a distinct angle relative to the motherboard. Maybe it's not surprising that Thermalright and Cryorig share similar build quality issues, I believe the designers are ex Thermalright and presumably they contract the same factory to do the manufacturing.
> 
> Anyone here got a wonky Cryorig tower? or do the retail purchased units seem be mostly OK?


I can only speak for my experience, and it went like this. Initially, I noticed a bit of lean with my R1 Universal, but after digging through this thread a bit, I found the pics from the cryorig rep about how far to tighten the screws for the heatsink, and now there is very minimal lean, which is great considering the size of the cooler. My overall experience with the R1 has been great, the packaging was very nice, and the quality in general of the product was great. There was much attention to detail in the retail packaging.

In contrast, I recently purchased two TY-147's for my Enthoo Pro. They came with just the fan in the box, no screws, no other hardware. One of the fans came damaged, and has a distinct rattling noise; I am in the process of RMAing both.

Now I know I am comparing the packaging of a heatsink to a fan, but when thinking of other fans in the same price range as the ty-147, like the Phanteks 140XP, Thermalright fell short on what they give for fans, albeit they are great fans. And when comparing the R1 Universal I have now, to the equally priced Megahalems 1st Revision I got back in 2009, I cannot be any more satisfied with my purchase now.


----------



## Dibbler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EdTheHead*
> 
> Glad to be of help. Yes, I agree with you, i do like the black on the ultimate. I ended up choosing the universal and am going with a black/white theme for my build


Well I had a play around with the template and I might just get away with the RAM height concern providing that I can clip the first fan a little higher. Either way the Ultimate has been ordered and will be delivered tomorrow.

I so much want this Ultimate version to work over the Universal, still and excellent cooler, offering. Maybe wishful thinking will help...? Or some work with the relatively small heat spreader on the Crucial RAM....!

If the Ultimate hadn't have been possible then maybe the Dark Pro 3 would have been my next choice...?

I can move the memory over to the last two slots as they are labelled 1 and 3, thus retaining dual channel support - that might be useful.


----------



## Shneiky

If I recall correctly, they are giving a bit under 40 mm clearance if the R1 Ultimate 1st fan is pulled upwards. 38mm to be exact. So if your sticks are under - you are all safe.


----------



## Dibbler

Thanks, hopefully when it turns up tomorrow all will be well









Looking forward to receiving this humongous cooler ,looks good as well









Doubt that I'll see the blue flashing lights though on the memory any more, not sure if that is a bad thing though as they can be detracting.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dibbler*
> 
> Well I had a play around with the template and I might just get away with the RAM height concern providing that I can clip the first fan a little higher. Either way the Ultimate has been ordered and will be delivered tomorrow.
> 
> I so much want this Ultimate version to work over the Universal, still and excellent cooler, offering. Maybe wishful thinking will help...? Or some work with the relatively small heat spreader on the Crucial RAM....!
> 
> If the Ultimate hadn't have been possible then maybe the Dark Pro 3 would have been my next choice...?
> 
> I can move the memory over to the last two slots as they are labelled 1 and 3, thus retaining dual channel support - that might be useful.


I have TridentX RAM, and only have to remove one of the "red blade" heatsinks to fit an R1 Ultimate onto my z87x-oc. I can link pictures when I get home if curious (in about an hour) as doing more than a text reply gets difficult for me on a phone.


----------



## Dibbler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I have TridentX RAM, and only have to remove one of the "red blade" heatsinks to fit an R1 Ultimate onto my z87x-oc. I can link pictures when I get home if curious (in about an hour) as doing more than a text reply gets difficult for me on a phone.


That would be most kind of you and please if possible to link pictures that would be great. But do not put yourself out by doing this.









It isn't too bad if the heat sinks or spreaders have clips the challenge is, as always, for those where they are stuck on to the actual chips, like mine.

Hopefully I should be fine, well fingers crossed anyway...!

Thanks again for the offer


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dibbler*
> 
> That would be most kind of you and please if possible to link pictures that would be great. But do not put yourself out by doing this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It isn't too bad if the heat sinks or spreaders have clips the challenge is, as always, for those where they are stuck on to the actual chips, like mine.
> 
> Hopefully I should be fine, well fingers crossed anyway...!
> 
> Thanks again for the offer





These are the ones I currently have. I can try and take closer pictures if need be. For reference, according to G.Skill without the headspreader my DIMMs are 39mm tall.


----------



## Dibbler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> snip pictures
> These are the ones I currently have. I can try and take closer pictures if need be. For reference, according to G.Skill without the headspreader my DIMMs are 39mm tall.


Many thanks for posting those. If yours measured 39mm then I should be fine with mine at 37mm including the heat spreader.

With the NZXT Phantom 630 case I know that there will be no restriction there so now that I can stop thinking about a AIO water cooling option I should be able to enjoy the R1 Ultimate when it arrives.


----------



## doyll

@ Dibbler
You will be very happy with either one of the R1 coolers. I have both and honestly the difference in cooling is minimal and all to do with the thinner fan on Universal.

Here's a drawing showing the difference between R1 Ultimate and R1 Universal


As you can see the cooler fin pac size is the same, but set back on the Universal with a little less spacing between each pac. Also the notice the Universal pipes are formed slightly farther back. These combined with thin fan make the clearance difference.

Here is a more detailed drawing of R1 Universal clearances


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seville Orange*
> 
> Hello Cryorig owners,
> 
> I'm looking at the newest H7 universal cooler (need something under 150mm tall) so before I wade through all 116 pages of this thread, can any anyone give me a idea of how happy people are with the build quality of their Cryorig heatsinks?
> 
> Lately I've used a few Themalrights and quite honestly I'm getting really p'd off with their wonky, crooked towers and god awful fans. I thought Cryorig might be the answer until I read a review complaining of the same sort of problem i.e. once installed the tower rests at a distinct angle relative to the motherboard. Maybe it's not surprising that Thermalright and Cryorig share similar build quality issues, I believe the designers are ex Thermalright and presumably they contract the same factory to do the manufacturing.
> 
> Anyone here got a wonky Cryorig tower? or do the retail purchased units seem be mostly OK?


I use lots of Thermalright from small to large and think they are very good quality. Cryorig H7 Universal is also a very nice little cooler. But if you don't like Thermalright, you probably won't be happy with Cryorig, Noctua, Phanteks, be quiet! or any other cooler build quality.


----------



## Dibbler

@doyll - Thanks for that and the pictures, it helps to understand those differences.
It is interesting to note the minimal differences between the two, which sort of echoes my findings after reading so many reviews. There was also a finding that the noise is less "pleasant" with the Universal than the Ultimate. But that too might be most minimal and subjective.

Once I got my head around no longer wanting the minimalistic impact a AIO would have, for many other reasons, and then accept that in this situation size does relatively matter when it comes to cooling it then narrowed my searching for the Air coolers to that of the larger towers. The R1 Ultimate, and maybe to a lesser extent the Dark Pro 3, just amazed me after reading the reviews and seeing images of it. Living in the UK though meant a lack of retailers selling it and even though I have got one being delivered today I wouldn't normally deal with that company. Still there should be minimal tp go wrong compared to an AIO and hopefully I will not need the hair dryer on the RAM heat spreaders.

If needed is it possible to buy in the UK the slimmer fan of the Universal if needed and if so where from....?

Thanks again for your post


----------



## doyll

You can get most all Cryorig products from ebuyer.com
XT140 is £12.99 + post if less than £50.00
http://www.ebuyer.com/666091-cryorig-xt140-140mm-diameter-13mm-thick-pwm-fan-cr-xta

or from Amazon.co.uk for £12.99 with free delivery
http://www.amazon.co.uk/CR-XTA-XT140/dp/B00IAPV5YW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1426588687&sr=8-6&keywords=cryorig

Edit
I assume you do realize that from center CPU to front of cooler is
R1 Ultimate 40mm
R1 Universal 35.5mm


----------



## Dibbler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You can get most all Cryorig products from ebuyer.com
> XT140 is £12.99 + post if less than £50.00
> http://www.ebuyer.com/666091-cryorig-xt140-140mm-diameter-13mm-thick-pwm-fan-cr-xta
> 
> or from Amazon.co.uk for £12.99 with free delivery
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/CR-XTA-XT140/dp/B00IAPV5YW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1426588687&sr=8-6&keywords=cryorig
> 
> Edit
> I assume you do realize that from center CPU to front of cooler is
> R1 Ultimate 40mm
> R1 Universal 35.5mm


Thanks for those links, most appreciated.

I posted over at OCUK in regards to the delivery of the R1 Ultimate, a pity that they do not stock them.....

In regards to the size compared with my Arctic Freezer 2....

http://postimg.org/image/5uak5fr2r/

http://postimg.org/image/dlra3zv83/

http://postimg.org/image/8yl8287v7/

Thankfully it fitted fine and only needed a minimal raising of the rear fan to accomodate my Tracer RAM, and I can still still the blue LED'S on them...!

The temps from the AF2....

http://postimage.org/

and then the R1 Ultimate....

http://postimage.org/

give an indication of the difference in cooling. Albeit not summer yet as least I know I'll have some headroom and the ability to use some fan profiles etc, which has to be a good thing. Thankfully the need to delid etc can be put aside.

The build quality and box contents etc of the R1 is great and it was easy enough to install, aprt from a little fiddly getting at the screw heads to attach it to the mounting plate.


----------



## VSG

Lol I thought that post looked familiar and then I realized you are on the OcUK forums as well.


----------



## Seville Orange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have three heatsinks from them (R1 Ultimate, C1 and H7) and all three have been flawless as far as I can tell.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EdTheHead*
> 
> I can only speak for my experience...
> ...I cannot be any more satisfied with my purchase now.


Thanks both, I ordered one each of the Cryorig H7 and Thermalright Macho 90. Prices are not super expensive and the two sizes should give me good options to explore.

If they're more true and square than the last few Thermalrights I installed I will be very pleased, but it's the €50-€60 and higher coolers that I most object to being wonky, especially after installing enough €15-€25 Scythes and Thermaltake coolers to see that those are apparently better made despite the budget price. I can only speculate that market pressure from AIO coolers have put the squeeze on the profitability of the higher price air coolers and they cut costs.

The Cryorig looks intriguing anyway so I'd like to give it a chance.


----------



## doyll

All of the Cryorig cooler are really good. Definitely some of the very best.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seville Orange*
> 
> Thanks both, I ordered one each of the Cryorig H7 and Thermalright Macho 90. Prices are not super expensive and the two sizes should give me good options to explore.


Hi Seville,
I am a bit intrigued by what you mean by:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seville Orange*
> 
> crooked towers and god awful fans. I thought Cryorig might be the answer until I read a review complaining of the same sort of problem i.e. once installed the tower rests at a distinct angle relative to the motherboard.


???

If you are referring to this:



Then this is actually intended, not a manufacturing problem. The H7 falls back to create space for RAM and lower the overall height to 145~146mm. If you're talking about the THermalright then I must assume you meand the True Spirit 120M, which features the similar design.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EdTheHead*
> 
> I can only speak for my experience, and it went like this. Initially, I noticed a bit of lean with my R1 Universal, but after digging through this thread a bit, I found the pics from the cryorig rep about how far to tighten the screws for the heatsink, and now there is very minimal lean, which is great considering the size of the cooler. My overall experience with the R1 has been great, the packaging was very nice, and the quality in general of the product was great. There was much attention to detail in the retail packaging.


Hi Ed,

Sorry to pull up this post, can you PM me images of what you mean by lean??
I'll look into this and ask the engineering guys.


----------



## EdTheHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Hi Ed,
> 
> Sorry to pull up this post, can you PM me images of what you mean by lean??
> I'll look into this and ask the engineering guys.


Hey, that was my lack of knowledge on the topic to lead me to that conclusion. I was under the assumption that lower end coolers, that are big in size, tend to lean a bit due to poor mounting hardware. However, in this case, it was my fear of overtightening that led to me not even fully getting the screw meet the base like the picture you posted quite a bit of pages back in this post.

But I reiterate, I am very happy with my R1


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Hi Seville,
> I am a bit intrigued by what you mean by:
> ???
> 
> If you are referring to this:
> 
> 
> 
> Then this is actually intended, not a manufacturing problem. The H7 falls back to create space for RAM and lower the overall height to 145~146mm. If you're talking about the THermalright then I must assume you meand the True Spirit 120M, which features the similar design.


I am curious on this, also. I have each piece in the Cryorig line, as well as two current Thermalrights, and design and assembly on all are top notch.


----------



## Seville Orange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Then this is actually intended, not a manufacturing problem.


Hi Steve,

I am not referring to the offset that allows bigger coolers to fit around PCIe slots and RAM. For an immediate example may I refer you to Tweaktown's reviews, in each page linked please scroll to the bottom photo for reference and also read the conclusion.

H5 review - orients perfectly after installation and is plumb

vs

H7 review - it's not parallel, it's visibly rotated a few ° relative to the horizontal line of the mobo

This is just one example of the type of issue that bugs me. I might be able to do some photos over the weekend of my Thermalright Zero and a Macho 120 I installed for a family member (other Machos I installed for other people I can't access) but I can tell you without the aid of photos: in the case of the 120 it is rotated like the Tweaktown H7 sample _and_ leans like the tower at Pisa. I haven't installed the Zero, but just resting it on a flat surface shows that it also leans in an obvious, visible way. It's a very unattractive look and in the case of the Zero especially I think it's unforgivable at the price point.

Now I don't expect absolute perfection, but a motherboard and CPU socket is effectively a respectably flat, horizontal surface. I think heatsink towers should, when installed be very close to 90° vertical - enough that they look vertical to the naked eye and also be very close to parallel/square to the X and Y axis of the motherboard.


----------



## Dyaems

Can't you rotate the cooler by a bit so that it would "center?" I'm pretty sure the U14S I currently have does that as well, and also my ancient Hyper212 Evo...


----------



## Seville Orange

I believe TT noted in their H7 review they tried adjusting and it wouldn't play ball.

From my own experience with the Thermalrights, you can loosen the screws to try and adjust rotation, but as soon as you tighten them up again it returns to the askew position. Nothing to be done about the lean, it's determined by how the heatpipes are set from the base.


----------



## doyll

Is the fin pack aligned with the base?
Could you measure or show us pictures of the base alignment to fin pack?


----------



## Mozz13

Hi all, I am looking for information but to no avail so hopefully someone can help me on this.







I have been wanting to sell my current machine and downsize to an itx machine with air cooling. I was looking at Asus maximus vii impact for my mobo and was wondering if the H5 would fit? I am a bit concerned with the VRM daughter board being too obstructive.







Thanks guys!


----------



## Second

I love the Cryorig R1 Ultimate heres my pc! I broke the fan on accident tinkering with my cable management. I replaced the fan today lesson learned dont tinker while the case is open.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Second*
> 
> I love the Cryorig R1 Ultimate heres my pc! I broke the fan on accident tinkering with my cable management. I replaced the fan today lesson learned dont tinker while the case is open.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Glad to hear you got her on two feet (fans) again









Yes the R1 is a beast.. Nice rig by the way, and welcome to OCN.


----------



## Shneiky

I decided to remove the front fan of my R1 Ultimate today and run with only 1 fan sandwiched between the towers. And the benches turned quite impressive. Keeping a 2700k at 4.2 GHz

3.5 GHz at 1.07 Vcore with 2 fans at 650 RPM - 42 C at the warmest core

3.5 GHz at 1.07 Vcore with 1 fan at 650 RPM - 46 C at the warmest core

4.2 GHz at 1.2 Vcore with 2 fans at 650 RPM - 52 C at the warmest core

4.2 GHz at 1.2 Vcore with 1 fan at 650 RPM - 57 C at the warmest core

That is pretty impressive. Really impressive numbers. I am quite happy with how good the R1 does even with only 1 fan.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mozz13*
> 
> Hi all, I am looking for information but to no avail so hopefully someone can help me on this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been wanting to sell my current machine and downsize to an itx machine with air cooling. I was looking at Asus maximus vii impact for my mobo and was wondering if the H5 would fit? I am a bit concerned with the VRM daughter board being too obstructive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks guys!


I don't know how tall the daughter board is, but the H5 has 44mm clearance from bottom of fins to motherboard.


----------



## Dyaems

H5 is 143mm wide and has 44mm clearance to the first fin. I would *assume* it will hit the daughterboard. The 150mm wide U14S with 41mm clearance to the first fin does not fit with an Impact, unless it is rotated where the fan side is facing the daughterboard. You may want to try it though if you're brave enough since the H7 has better clearance issues for the daughterboard compared to U14s.

An H7 will surely fit if you want that instead.


----------



## Mozz13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I don't know how tall the daughter board is, but the H5 has 44mm clearance from bottom of fins to motherboard.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> H5 is 143mm wide and has 44mm clearance to the first fin. I would *assume* it will hit the daughterboard. The 150mm wide U14S with 41mm clearance to the first fin does not fit with an Impact, unless it is rotated where the fan side is facing the daughterboard. You may want to try it though if you're brave enough since the H7 has better clearance issues for the daughterboard compared to U14s.
> 
> An H7 will surely fit if you want that instead.


Thanks for the reply guys! Much appreciated. Problem with living down under is that we have fairly limited options and H7 is not available. Was considering sourcing it from outside but probably not for now. I read the VI impact review from Kitguru and they said they could even fit the NH-D14 on it which is crazy so was still looking around for its clearance to the first fin but still couldn't find it yet. Just wondering if C1 can fit an Impact?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mozz13*
> 
> Thanks for the reply guys! Much appreciated. Problem with living down under is that we have fairly limited options and H7 is not available. Was considering sourcing it from outside but probably not for now. I read the VI impact review from Kitguru and they said they could even fit the NH-D14 on it which is crazy so was still looking around for its clearance to the first fin but still couldn't find it yet. Just wondering if C1 can fit an Impact?


H5 has same 36mm clearance bottom fin to CPU, plus 8mm if you remove the white plastic bottom piece.


----------



## Mozz13

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*






Thank you doyll!! Rep+


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mozz13*
> 
> 
> Thank you doyll!! Rep+


No problem. Thanks. H5 Universal has same 44mm clearance with plastic on bottom of fin pack removed. I edited the post to include drawing of H5. The plastic is cosmetic and does not change performance of cooler.


----------



## Nizr

Heres my cryorig build. First went with the R1.. But, i am doing a GPU-mod later.. and that will make the R1 a no go... sadly.. So i settled on the c1. The performance of the C1 is great though!
I am however disapointed of the fans. The XT140 is loud and have this wired motor sound, but hey, they are slim and beautiful to look at









The XF140 is much better, but still to much motor sound for me, the performance is great though.

Wanted a H5 when the r1 got to big (or an H7). The aren't available I'm Sweden though and I have bad experience with ordering from other countries..

All in all. Good performance, awesome looks, a bit to noisy for me.





Inside



The fan i in the back was sadly broken, ticking noice all the time. But, since i painted, no warranty


----------



## Second

Nice well done!


----------



## Sepesusi

Very nice!


----------



## Cysquatch

I just installed my R1 Universal tonight on my 8320 / sabertooth 990fx setup, sorry for the bad picture.


so i wanted to check temps. i have a mild 4.2ghz on stock volts, just need an opinon if these temps look good, or if i need to remount/adjust.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> I just installed my R1 Universal tonight on my 8320 / sabertooth 990fx setup, sorry for the bad picture.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so i wanted to check temps. i have a mild 4.2ghz on stock volts, just need an opinon if these temps look good, or if i need to remount/adjust.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I don't think I have run stock voltage yet since I had my R1, but your temps seem good to me.

Is it common for people to loosen the lower mounting screw to account for the weight of the cooler? Anyone get better temps from doing this? I have not tried it yet. Just wondering..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nizr*
> 
> Heres my cryorig build. First went with the R1.. But, i am doing a GPU-mod later.. and that will make the R1 a no go... sadly.. So i settled on the c1. The performance of the C1 is great though!
> I am however disapointed of the fans. The XT140 is loud and have this wired motor sound, but hey, they are slim and beautiful to look at
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The XF140 is much better, but still to much motor sound for me, the performance is great though.
> 
> Wanted a H5 when the r1 got to big (or an H7). The aren't available I'm Sweden though and I have bad experience with ordering from other countries..
> 
> All in all. Good performance, awesome looks, a bit to noisy for me.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fan i in the back was sadly broken, ticking noice all the time. But, since i painted, no warranty


Looks fantastic (no pun). Love the while fan housings. Look really good in your white Evolv case.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> I just installed my R1 Universal tonight on my 8320 / sabertooth 990fx setup, sorry for the bad picture.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so i wanted to check temps. i have a mild 4.2ghz on stock volts, just need an opinon if these temps look good, or if i need to remount/adjust.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good. Temps look good too.


----------



## Nizr

So, i starten to try different things to find out if the loud fans had something todo with my phanteks PWM-hub. Connected the fan in the c1 directly motherboard. It got ALLOT better even quiet! So. I attached a PWM-splitter, same result, silent. Connected a case fan (all fans XF140). The case fans sounds allot more at same RPM as the one mounted on the C1, you can hear a slight huming and clicking sound.
Started to think... Might be the motor vibration being transferd to the chassi?

What do all you other XF140 owners think of the sound of the fans at 700ish rpm?


----------



## doyll

I find them to be one of the best available. I use lots of different coolers and case fans, like TY-140 series fans, PH-F140 series fans, Noctua NF-A14 & NF-A15, Lepa (Enermax), be quiet!, ID-Cooling, Antec, Asaka, etc. and obviously some are not near as good as others.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nizr*
> 
> So, i starten to try different things to find out if the loud fans had something todo with my phanteks PWM-hub. Connected the fan in the c1 directly motherboard. It got ALLOT better even quiet! So. I attached a PWM-splitter, same result, silent. Connected a case fan (all fans XF140). The case fans sounds allot more at same RPM as the one mounted on the C1, you can hear a slight huming and clicking sound.
> Started to think... Might be the motor vibration being transferd to the chassi?
> 
> What do all you other XF140 owners think of the sound of the fans at 700ish rpm?


I haven't had any low speed issues with them, they have been perfectly behaved.

*However*, what you are describing would likely be resultant of a resonant frequency in the build as a whole - they all have them, actually almost every piece of matter has them. It is a frequency that causes the whole to slightly resonate, giving off a hum - http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/sound/reson.html

An example, my Enthoo Primo sounds like an alien ship in a sci-fi movie whenever my pump is between 2120 and 2190 rpm, but is dead silent otherwise. Try playing with the fan curve and see if you can get the speed that causes the humming out of the mix.


----------



## Cysquatch

Any suggestions how much i should tighten the screws on my r1 universal?


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> Any suggestions how much i should tighten the screws on my r1 universal?


Which Screw? Fan Screws, or the one for the heatsink?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> Any suggestions how much i should tighten the screws on my r1 universal?


If you mean the 2 spring loaded screws on the mounting crossbar, they should screw in very easily. Stop when they snug up. If you try tightening them any more you might break them.


----------



## Nizr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I find them to be one of the best available. I use lots of different coolers and case fans, like TY-140 series fans, PH-F140 series fans, Noctua NF-A14 & NF-A15, Lepa (Enermax), be quiet!, ID-Cooling, Antec, Asaka, etc. and obviously some are not near as good as others.


What is your thought about the PH-F140 in comparison to the XF and XT140?

Might be that me, pushing and pulling the fan during masking of the fans made them fubar. At least all the fans except one, sounds unlikely to me though...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I haven't had any low speed issues with them, they have been perfectly behaved.
> 
> *However*, what you are describing would likely be resultant of a resonant frequency in the build as a whole - they all have them, actually almost every piece of matter has them. It is a frequency that causes the whole to slightly resonate, giving off a hum - http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/sound/reson.html
> 
> An example, my Enthoo Primo sounds like an alien ship in a sci-fi movie whenever my pump is between 2120 and 2190 rpm, but is dead silent otherwise. Try playing with the fan curve and see if you can get the speed that causes the humming out of the mix.


Guess you are right, especially with the fans being attached to the chassi. I will have to do some testing, did not have this problem with my FT02, did not try the Cryorig fans though








This project is starting to get expensive with all the fans, especially with my just ordered a bunch of other brands to try


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If you mean the 2 spring loaded screws on the mounting crossbar, they should screw in very easily. Stop when they snug up. If you try tightening them any more you might break them.


Yes the heatsink screws. I didnt want tighten them too far. So i should feel a reasonable resistance when i tighten them?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> Yes the heatsink screws. I didnt want tighten them too far. So i should feel a reasonable resistance when i tighten them?


They will go along turning easy and than stop. That's it. Be careful snugging them because the 'L' screwdriver supplied give much more torque than a round handled screwdriver.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> They will go along turning easy and than stop. That's it. Be careful snugging them because the 'L' screwdriver supplied give much more torque than a round handled screwdriver.


awesome, thanks a ton. I didnt even go that far because I read a couple of reviews saying the screws break. Rep to you


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> awesome, thanks a ton. I didnt even go that far because I read a couple of reviews saying the screws break. Rep to you


LOL...a lot of people misread "stop turning when the screw stop is reached" as "turn harder!!!!".

It is a very evident stop, you will feel it. When you do, it is completely tightened. There is no part of this kit that requires the assistance of a silverback gorilla, it is all smooth and easy.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> LOL...a lot of people misread "stop turning when the screw stop is reached" as "turn harder!!!!".
> 
> It is a very evident stop, you will feel it. When you do, it is completely tightened. There is no part of this kit that requires the assistance of a silverback gorilla, it is all smooth and easy.


this probably why im not quite getting the temps i was hoping. Thanks a bunch


----------



## Sepesusi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> LOL...a lot of people misread "stop turning when the screw stop is reached" as "turn harder!!!!".
> 
> It is a very evident stop, you will feel it. When you do, it is completely tightened. There is no part of this kit that requires the assistance of a silverback gorilla, it is all smooth and easy.


To be fair, it was worded differently in my manual (something like "tighten the screw fully") and it was really easy to break it with the L-shaped screwdriver.









But I'm glad the customer support was kind enough to send me new set of mounting kit. The new ones were a lot sturdier too!!


----------



## Mang Keon

C1 in my modded SG-05 case.XF140 on cpu, XT 140 as side intake fan.

Ultimately I had to remove the shroud.
I think this time, having no shroud exposes the fins more/unblocks air and thus expelling hot air from the heatsink to the back with the metal mesh.
But that happens in my case only--pardon the pun.












I'm still getting decent temps despite the cramped conditions. 30-35 idle and 67 max.Outside temp is 14-20 very cool weather.
PSU exhausts to the front with the help of a slim 120mm front fan.


----------



## Dave6531

Anyone using the XF140's for intake and or exhaust fans? Picked up a nzxt s340 trying to figure out what intake fans I want to use 140 or 120. Currently using an H7 have to say its a great little cpu cooler might pick up another 120 to do push pull on it.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Anyone using the XF140's for intake and or exhaust fans? Picked up a nzxt s340 trying to figure out what intake fans I want to use 140 or 120. Currently using an H7 have to say its a great little cpu cooler might pick up another 120 to do push pull on it.


I've been tempted to do this to my Phantom 820 when they become available in Canada as a few of my case fans seem on their last legs (generally getting noisier). Also black case fans wouldn't hurt as the white blades on my stock fans stick out like one wouldn't believe.


----------



## doyll

I didn't try push/pull, but as well as H7 performs I would be surprised if there is much if any improvement. Probably a little at low fan speed, but the the increased noise of second fan would most likely mean noise level to temp will be the same either way.

Time and money would be better spend optimizing case airflow & cooling lowering cooler intake temps to as near to room temp as possible .. 2-3c increase at full load is great, 5c is very good.


----------



## Dave6531

Yeah I'm just curious as the cryorig fans are on sale. Just picked up an nzxt s340 so going to try the xf140's as intake.

Right now my 3 intake 80mm fans and 1 80 exhaust is doing surprisingly well. My cpu at max I've seen is 62 celcius average is 45 and idle around 30.


----------



## doyll

Although I haven't used or tested the XF140 on anything but Cryorig coolers I see no reason it shouldn't make a very good case fan. Only problem you might have is mount them .. not all cases will accept 2x 140mm fan with 120mm mounts.


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Although I haven't used or tested the XF140 on anything but Cryorig coolers I see no reason it shouldn't make a very good case fan. Only problem you might have is mount them .. not all cases will accept 2x 140mm fan with 120mm mounts.


Yeah that's my only concern ill have to messure and check.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Yeah that's my only concern ill have to messure and check.


I found this front view and after a little tweaking to get squared up it appears you might need to drill a couple of hole top and bottom to match up the 105mm hole spacing (120mm fan mount) of the XF140 fans.


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I found this front view and after a little tweaking to get squared up it appears you might need to drill a couple of hole top and bottom to match up the 105mm hole spacing (120mm fan mount) of the XF140 fans.


Awesome thanks doyll nothing to hard that helps a lot. Since I'm painting the case it'll be really easy since ill have it torn apart.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Awesome thanks doyll nothing to hard that helps a lot. Since I'm painting the case it'll be really easy since ill have it torn apart.


As much as I am a huge fan (pun intended) of Cryorig coolers....the fans are good, but not outstanding. In a scenario where they are not going to be seen, such as the front of an H440, there really are better options in the same price range that don't require modifications. The Phanteks F140SP, Cougar Vortex HDB and Noctua Redux come to mind immediately - all are quieter with performance on par with the XF140.


----------



## VSG

Yeah, don't fool yourself into thinking that heatsink fans will be excelllent case fans. It need not be always the case. Heatsink fans are designed to deal with some airflow impedance, and good airflow optimized fans can outperform them in a low impedance situation.

Having said that, the biggest issue as pointed out before will be mounting a 140mm fan with 120mm fan holes. As far as I know, there are no cases out there which allow for this out of the box. If your case can fit 140mm fans, they will likely have threaded holes to accommodate standard 140mm fan holes so look for airflow optimized versions of the same.


----------



## Dave6531

I onow there's other options but not many in this price point with the quality amd features they come with. Out of the 3 listed the phanteks are the only ones as an option. I have 4 noctua redux fans although 80mm they are nice but are lacking for price point. I figured the cryorig xf140s were more of a sp fan than af but I could be wrong. As for drilling a couple holes that's not a big issue if they line up right I might even be able to lengthen the channel that is already there using my dremel and a file. Ill pry pick up a couple just because of price and to experiment see how they actually compare as intake fans. If they work they would look good with my theme build. 2 cryorig and 2 phanteks in shopping cart haha. I do appreciate the input and apologize for grammar errors getting off a graveyard ahift amd using my phone to quickly reply will fix later


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> I onow there's other options but not many in this price point with the quality amd features they come with. Out of the 3 listed the phanteks are the only ones as an option. I have 4 noctua redux fans although 80mm they are nice but are lacking for price point. I figured the cryorig xf140s were more of a sp fan than af but I could be wrong. As for drilling a couple holes that's not a big issue if they line up right I might even be able to lengthen the channel that is already there using my dremel and a file. Ill pry pick up a couple just because of price and to experiment see how they actually compare as intake fans. If they work they would look good with my theme build. 2 cryorig and 2 phanteks in shopping cart haha. I do appreciate the input and apologize for grammar errors getting off a graveyard ahift amd using my phone to quickly reply will fix later


Keep in mind the PH-F140SP is not PWM.
The PH-F140XP and PH-F140MP are both PWM.


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Keep in mind the PH-F140SP is not PWM.
> The PH-F140XP and PH-F140MP are both PWM.


Yeah I noticed that. Is it better to have sp fans as intake or af? I know if there are more things hindering airflow the sp models are better but what do you guys think?


----------



## doyll

I assume by SP an AF you mean static pressure and air flow. You can't have one without the other. Simply put, air moves to equalize the pressure. Higher pressure moves toward lower pressure .. result is airflow. Generally fans with higher pressure ratings move more air at lower speeds .. simply because their added pressure (which drops as speed drops) is still high enough to overcome the resistance of case grill, filter (I always use filters on intakes) and whatever else there is like cables, hdd cage, etc. More PH-F140SP fans are used in cases than anywhere else .. because they are the fan Phanteks supplies with their cases.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Sup guys, , , wanted to know it the temps I'm getting with the Cryorig r1 universal are normal, ,,,,,,,,,,On intel burn test on the "very High" option the average temp is 75C,,,,,,,Prime 95 in the "In place large FFTs" option the average is 62c....btw the cpu is an i5 4670k 4.4ghz, 1.20v, Thank you!


----------



## doyll

Looks nice and temps are good.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Looking at buying the H5 or R1 Universal for my sig rig. Was wondering if anyone has used them with the Maximus VII Gene? Thanks.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Thanks for the reply doyll, , , , and vulgardisplay, i think either one will fit but don't take my work for it lol


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> Thanks for the reply doyll, , , , and vulgardisplay, i think either one will fit but don't take my work for it lol


Thanks for the reply. I'll print out the tester thingy on the Cryorig website and see if I have any clearance issues


----------



## TMatzelle60

How will the C1 work with i7 5820K without OC will i be fine with it. Im going to be using it in a air 240 case


----------



## VSG

Not bad at all, it handled my 5960x well enough compared to single tower coolers for example. The Air 240 isn't bad in terms of getting case temps close to ambient as well.

You would be missing out on some good performance by leaving that 5820k at stock though, it overclocks pretty good on average.


----------



## Cysquatch

Has anyone had to deal with cryorig customer service? I have a noisy fan on my R1 Universal. I tried contacting customer service twice, the first time more than a month ago... still havent heard back. Its really disappointing considering its such an awesome cooler.


----------



## VSG

They have one guy handling everything from marketing and support as far as I know. He posts here also: @Steve-S


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> They have one guy handling everything from marketing and support as far as I know. He posts here also: @Steve-S


yeah i messaged him last week too, havent heard anything.


----------



## doyll

I'm sure you will be hearing from Steve-S or someone soon. I know they've been very busy.


----------



## Nizr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> Has anyone had to deal with cryorig customer service? I have a noisy fan on my R1 Universal. I tried contacting customer service twice, the first time more than a month ago... still havent heard back. Its really disappointing considering its such an awesome cooler.


I did, using the form on the site (loged in).
They answered the day after. Really fast reply and they sent a new mounting bracket and it got delivers the week after ( I live in Sweden). Awesome service!

Try again, but loged if (if not) using the form on the site.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nizr*
> 
> I did, using the form on the site (loged in).
> They answered the day after. Really fast reply and they sent a new mounting bracket and it got delivers the week after ( I live in Sweden). Awesome service!
> 
> Try again, but loged if (if not) using the form on the site.


Ill try to log in and do it, maybe that will make the difference. Thanks for the tip


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> Sup guys, , , wanted to know it the temps I'm getting with the Cryorig r1 universal are normal, ,,,,,,,,,,On intel burn test on the "very High" option the average temp is 75C,,,,,,,Prime 95 in the "In place large FFTs" option the average is 62c....btw the cpu is an i5 4670k 4.4ghz, 1.20v, Thank you!


is your 200mm fan set as intake or exhaust?


----------



## Emmexx

Decided to redo my 540 fan setup with a 4th 140XF.


----------



## VSG

lol this is amazing


----------



## Nizr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> Ill try to log in and do it, maybe that will make the difference. Thanks for the tip


Forgot to advice you to register the product first! At least the site says that registered products get faster support...


----------



## faizreds

Received something today:



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmexx*
> 
> Decided to redo my 540 fan setup with a 4th 140XF.


Am I seeing this wrong? It looks like the fans setup flowing air back to front .. assuming top of pic is back of case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faizreds*
> 
> Received something today:
> 
> Gotta love cooler porn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nizr*
> 
> Forgot to advice you to register the product first! At least the site says that registered products get faster support...


Steve just sent me a pm and got me on the right track, I have a feeling ill be taken care of nicely


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Am I seeing this wrong? It looks like the fans setup flowing air back to front .. assuming top of pic is back of case.


I'm assuming hes using the rear and the top as an intake and the front as exhaust. Not traditional, but i dont see why it wouldnt work. Thas just my guess.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> I'm assuming hes using the rear and the top as an intake and the front as exhaust. Not traditional, but i dont see why it wouldnt work. Thas just my guess.


That's the only way it makes sense.

Glad Steve is getting your problem solved. I've had great CS from Cryorig. Couldn't be better.


----------



## Emmexx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> I'm assuming hes using the rear and the top as an intake and the front as exhaust. Not traditional, but i dont see why it wouldnt work. Thas just my guess.


Correct







I took a dremel to the side of my 540 and added two fans. I now have 5 140mm intake and 3 120mm exhaust. It has helped get more air to my GPU. I have my case sit window up.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> Has anyone had to deal with cryorig customer service? I have a noisy fan on my R1 Universal. I tried contacting customer service twice, the first time more than a month ago... still havent heard back. Its really disappointing considering its such an awesome cooler.


I read in a review posted to newegg that their customer service was great. How did you contact them? If you bought the cooler in newegg try contacting them through there.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> is your 200mm fan set as intake or exhaust?


Exhaust


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> I read in a review posted to newegg that their customer service was great. How did you contact them? If you bought the cooler in newegg try contacting them through there.


Cryorig contacted Cysquatch and problem is being resolved as we speak.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> I read in a review posted to newegg that their customer service was great. How did you contact them? If you bought the cooler in newegg try contacting them through there.


I made a mistake by not registering first, then steve gave me the email I needed to get in contact. I have a feeling they'll take good care of me


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> I made a mistake by not registering first, then steve gave me the email I needed to get in contact. I have a feeling they'll take good care of me

















Kinda hard for customer service to give support when product isn't registered with the fancy inclosed registration card. Sorry, I should have asked that first off.
















Cryorig has drawings every once in a while for registered owners.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Cryorig has drawings every once in a while for registered owners.


How do they draw owners? I guess they coolers have little built in cameras that send the pictures back ... and then they use those pictures to draw us. I hope I was looking my best when I installed my C1.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Joking!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> How do they draw owners? I guess they coolers have little built in cameras that send the pictures back ... and then they use those pictures to draw us. I hope I was looking my best when I installed my C1.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Joking!


They include a breeding pair of nano-bots hermetically sealed in with each of the registration card. They do the drawing.








If you don't open the sealed registration card you will never hae a chance at being drawn.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> They include a breeding pair of nano-bots hermetically sealed in with each of the registration card. They do the drawing.


Excellent!!!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Excellent!!!


Not really. I think mine have a firmware problem. They are always drawing .. but nothing ever shows up.


----------



## Dave6531

Love my cryorig gear with I could fit the r1 in the s340 case but just a tad to tall and don't think going from h7 to h5 would yield a large enough difference in cooling to purchase.


----------



## Dyaems

Just saw the April Fools product from Cryorig.. Funny!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Just saw the April Fools product from Cryorig.. Funny!


What! You don't believe it's for real? I'm waiting for mine to arrive .. with an armament accessory kit.








I suspect it will be a very long wait.


----------



## Dyaems

I ordered mine just now and Cryorig sent an email to me that the cooler will be delivered through "air" mail-- the cooler itself will be going to my place without couriers, to prove that its tracking feature works without problems


----------



## doyll

Why didn't they use the "Air Fart One Cloud" to deliver your message?


----------



## Dyaems

There was an issue that time and because of that Cryorig also sent me an AF41 so that it will be sure that the Air Fort One can carry heavy things


----------



## doyll

Some fools have all the luck.


----------



## Cysquatch

just wanted to give an update on my customer service experience. I was contacted by cryorig this morning notifying me that they were sending out a fan asap. Also requested that i try to capture the sound on a video with me cell phone. I wish i wouldve done this in the first place, i would already have a replacement


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> just wanted to give an update on my customer service experience. I was contacted by cryorig this morning notifying me that they were sending out a fan asap. Also requested that i try to capture the sound on a video with me cell phone. I wish i wouldve done this in the first place, i would already have a replacement


Replacement without needing to prove your fan is making noise, but please send them a clip so they can hear what it sounds like.
:thumb:You can't get any better service than that.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Replacement without needing to prove your fan is making noise, but please send them a clip so they can hear what it sounds like.
> :thumb:You can't get any better service than that.


you're absolutley right, it doenst get much better thank that. Kudos to Cryorig customer service, makes me love my purchase that much more


----------



## unequalteck

Cryorig H5 and H7, gonna do review for these 2 very soon.


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unequalteck*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cryorig H5 and H7, gonna do review for these 2 very soon.


Nice I'd like to see if there is any real difference in dissipation between the two.


----------



## doyll

H5 out-performs the H7 .. but the H7 will fit where the H5 will not.


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> H5 out-performs the H7 .. but the H7 will fit where the H5 will not.


Yeah but wonder by how much it out performs. Doubt enough for me to think about upgrading my h7 to an h5. H7 to r1 yes but alas it does not fit in my case.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Yeah but wonder by how much it out performs. Doubt enough for me to think about upgrading my h7 to an h5. H7 to r1 yes but alas it does not fit in my case.


Much depends on how warm the air going into cooler is compared to room temperature, how much heat the CPU is producing, etc. .. but I would guess H5 is 3-7c better

Code:



Code:


7-4960X @ 4.0GHz; 21c room
Cooler.  700rpm . 900rpm . 1200rpm . 1500rpm
H5  . . . 58.0c . 54.0c . . 51.0c
H7 . . . .64.0c . 62.0c . . 59.0c . . 56.0c
Silver Arrow IB-E 54.0c     49.0c
NH-D15            51.0c     48.0c
R1 Universal      53.0c     50.0c

But like I said, your results will be different.


----------



## ruffhi

I've finally installed my C1 in the Silverstonetek ML07B (or Raven / Fortress ... same underlying chassis). I really wanted to use this cooler and that forced me to change the brand of the motherboard. My initial selection for mobo was an ASUS but the C1 just wouldn't fit.










In the end, I went with a ASRock ...










... because the C1 fits nicely.

It clears my selected ram ...










... as well as the SATA ports ...










Here it is in the ML07B ...










I must say it was a bugger to install. Very difficult to see where the support holes are when screwing the whole thing down. I should have put little marks on the case so that I had something to line up with.

I also added a little collar to the fan so that it sucks nice, clean air from outside of the case ...










Full details on this build are in my build thread.


----------



## Cysquatch

I like the foam idea around the fan! Awesome build


----------



## doyll

ruffhi
Nicely done!
Supplying all the cool intake air needed to components without it being contaminated by heated exhaust is what airflow is all about. Using shrouds / ducts is a very good way of accomplishing the goal. .


----------



## doyll

@Dave6531
You got me wondering just how much difference in size there actually is between the H5 and H7, so I did some measuring and drawing.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I've finally installed my C1 in the Silverstonetek ML07B.


We used this to watch a DVD last night. With the TV on, I couldn't hear the HTPC ... but with the TV off, the CPU cooler fan was very noticeable. It sits right near the in-take grill on the top of the case so there is nothing buffering the sound. I need to put a filter on top - that might drop the sound a little.

Another option ... can I drop a 120mm 25mm fan on top of the cooler? I have an industrial noctua NF-F12 sitting downstairs doing nothing.


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @Dave6531
> You got me wondering just how much difference in size there actually is between the H5 and H7, so I did some measuring and drawing.


Nice job. I had compared the sizes just based off cryorigs site but your schematic is nicely done. There of course is the size difference but its not all that substantial so i wonder what kind of gains you would see from h7 to h5.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Nice job. I had compared the sizes just based off cryorigs site but your schematic is nicely done. There of course is the size difference but its not all that substantial so i wonder what kind of gains you would see from h7 to h5.


Like I said before, H5 is 3-7c better than H7.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> We used this to watch a DVD last night. With the TV on, I couldn't hear the HTPC ... but with the TV off, the CPU cooler fan was very noticeable. It sits right near the in-take grill on the top of the case so there is nothing buffering the sound. I need to put a filter on top - that might drop the sound a little.
> 
> Another option ... can I drop a 120mm 25mm fan on top of the cooler? I have an industrial noctua NF-F12 sitting downstairs doing nothing.


as in replacing the stock fan on the cooler with a 120mm fan?


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> as in replacing the stock fan on the cooler with a 120mm fan?


Yes. Is the 140mm fan one that uses 120mm screw point locations?


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Yes. Is the 140mm fan one that uses 120mm screw point locations?


Im not sure what youd be gaining with the noctua, more noise, less cfm, plus complicating how youd mount it. I'd stick with the stock fan and call it good.


----------



## doyll

As far as I know all Cryorig fans use standard 120mm fan mounting points. Only problem might be thickness of fan. You will need to use the fan clips for the 25.4mm fan as the 13mm ones will not work on 25mm thick fans. Have you tried adjusting the fan curve?

On another note, Cryorig just released the H5 Ultimate. Appears to be same cooler as H5 Universal with black shrouds and XF140 fan.


----------



## ruffhi

Thanks for the info. My C1 fan is attached with screws. I seem to remember seeing longer screws included in the kit ... so that you can attach a 25mm thick fan? I also think that I should have room in the case for a 25mm fan (but it will be close).

I ran some dB tests and, from 1 metre away, it was sitting at 37dB with the HTPC on and 36dB with the HTPC off. My office might have been too noisy at the time I tested.

Anyway, I am going to leave it as is and see if the fan noise annoys me. If it does, i will experiment.


----------



## unequalteck

https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/3562763

done my review on H5 and H7


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unequalteck*
> 
> https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/3562763
> 
> done my review on H5 and H7


I think you doubled up on the first picture on post #3 and pictures #2 and #3 on post #6.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unequalteck*
> 
> https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/3562763
> 
> done my review on H5 and H7


Nice review.
But
Do yourself and all of us a favor and monitor the cooler intake air temp, not the room ambient. They are not the same temperature .. especially when testing in a case. A simple remote probe digital thermometer, a piece of stiff insulated wire and a non-metal clothespin are all that is needed. Post in "Better ways to Cooling" link in sig explains it in detail.


----------



## unequalteck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I think you doubled up on the first picture on post #3 and pictures #2 and #3 on post #6.


ahh..thanks for pointing out man! edited the thread.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice review.
> But
> Do yourself and all of us a favor and monitor the cooler intake air temp, not the room ambient. They are not the same temperature .. especially when testing in a case. A simple remote probe digital thermometer, a piece of stiff insulated wire and a non-metal clothespin are all that is needed. Post in "Better ways to Cooling" link in sig explains it in detail.


hmm, gonna outstation until next week. i'll try to find all those materials and test the temperature again. nice info bro


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unequalteck*
> 
> hmm, gonna outstation until next week. i'll try to find all those materials and test the temperature again. nice info bro


You only did what most testers do. And it's okay if you are the only one comparing data, but even then I like knowing what the cooler intake air temp is because it lets me know if I'm supplying cooler with nice cool air. Ebay has plenty of basic units for about the cost of a pint.


----------



## Dyaems

@Steve-S

Any plans on making a third-party GPU cooler?


----------



## VSG

I would love to see this also


----------



## Mang Keon

Cryorig H5 Ultimate is coming.

Same thing-with black cover and XF140 fan (and clips)?
Those who have the original H5 , might as well just buy the bigger clips if they want to install the thicker fan.

Or modify the clips a little.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mang Keon*
> 
> Cryorig H5 Ultimate is coming.
> 
> Same thing-with black cover and XF140 fan (and clips)?
> Those who have the original H5 , might as well just buy the bigger clips if they want to install the thicker fan.
> 
> Or modify the clips a little.


Indeed!

Posted a detailed drawing of it here a couple days ago.


----------



## MothMusic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> @Steve-S
> 
> Any plans on making a third-party GPU cooler?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I would love to see this also


I actually sent an email asking Cryorig the same question on Feb 4 and this was there answer:

We are currently still evaluating the possibilities of making a GPU cooler. There is no set time table yet.

So hopefully they will make one. Make sure to send some emails telling them that you want a product like this so that way they know that there folks out there that desire it. If they did release one I hope that is matches the design aesthetic of their cpu coolers, comes with an anti sagging support brace like Artic Cooling does, and is packaged with slim fans to diminish the size it takes up.


----------



## Dyaems

AF41 for a GPU cooler would be great. Just kidding.









Maybe its the market that is holding them back to produce a GPU cooler, I think Arctic cooling (and _maybe_ Prolimatech) is the only one who still makes GPU coolers? Besides those AIO Brackets of course. Thermalright doesn't have updated GPU coolers anymore.

An anti-sagging support would be great if ever Cryorig will make one.


----------



## Sepesusi

Nowadays graphics cards have such good cooling that you would only see proper upgrade by getting watercooling, so no wonder the GPU cooler market has shrunk. The market will keep shrinking as GPUs become more efficient both in power usage and heat production, while becoming more powerful. I remember when I had a Palit 9600GT that would easily heat up to 100C (idle was almost 60C) and many enthusiasts on a local computer forum had huge 3rd party coolers that I envied, but were too expensive for me.







I played Battlefield 2 for years with that leafblower and at one point finally built a new PC with GTX 560 Ti and was amazed that not only was it very quiet, it was as hot under load as my old 9600GT was in idle. Sorry for the offtopic.









By the way, I have noticed that Cryorig is getting more attention. Local sites had news about the new H5 Ultimate cooler!


----------



## Mang Keon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Indeed!
> 
> Posted a detailed drawing of it here a couple days ago.


Yeah I did not notice those are comparisons as I skimmed thru the thread. ahaha.

(since they are literally the same hs),

Thanks for that!


----------



## Mang Keon

So it's not like the R1.Ultimate vs Universal-Where there is a 5mm offset from center base to edge of heatsink.


----------



## MothMusic

There is still demand for 3rd party coolers. The hot and noisy 290 is proof of that. Blower style coolers will always be noisy and have mediocre cooling. In addition big heat sinks allow for higher over clocks with near silent performance. That recent article on an over clocked Titan would not have been possible without using an Artic Cooling Extreme.


----------



## doyll

I think the problem is it's too limited a market already saturated with many good coolers ..like Gelid Icy Vision, Excelero Xtreme, Raijjintek Morpheus, Alpenföhn Peter (aka Deepcool Dracula) & Prolimatech MK-26 .. all having the same problem, no separation of intake from exhaust.

Last fan we had a thread about GPU cooler improvement. This was one idea


Cryorig could change the name and logo to go with other Cryorig products.


----------



## VSG

That's not bad at all, except I don't agree with the Noctua fans in use here


----------



## doyll

Sorry.








Was the only decent small fan image I could find to use in the drawings.








Guess I should have changed all images to blue, not just the ones in shroud.


----------



## VSG

Oh I was just pulling your leg, it does look really good though. I don't know if anyone would be interested in getting a 3 slot aftermarket cooler but front to back that way is what I would go with as well.


----------



## doyll

What Notty fans?


----------



## VSG




----------



## MothMusic

I don't think the gpu exhaust issue is really relevant as overclocking a cpu doesn't do much for you these days. Years ago when cpus where so crappy that oc was necessary to squeeze out decent performance and every ounce of cooling you could get was important. Now processors are so powerful for modern games that people are still rocking 2500ks that work great. If your cpu temp increases a small amount so what. Your gpu has the greatest effect on game performance. You would get way better value out of an overclocked gpu than a cpu.

The image you posted was interesting but small fans like that will have to be very loud to squeeze air through such tight and long spaces. It also looks like an ugly brick so although a neat idea I don't think it would be very practical or attractive.


----------



## doyll

@MothMusic
The heated exhaust from GPU is the single biggest heat source in modern computers. To cool other components we need to remove the GPUs heated exhaust without it mixing with and heating up the rest of the case air that is being used to cool the other components. This is very hard to do with a cooler tht dumps air everywhere in the case.

Most of us now use tower coolers on our CPUs drawing cool air in their front and exhaust their heated air toward the rear exhaust. This means the CPU cooler's heated exhaust usually leaves the case without contaminating other components airflow.

The length of the cooler duct is not a problem as long as the cooler is not too restrictive. Notice the fan size, cooler size, duct and cooler exhaust are all similar in size to keep resistance at a minimum.

As for the size,it's not much bigger than some others out there now.









Looks are personal preference.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

@doyll that is true man,, , , My i5 4670 @4.5ghz stays at 65c during stress tests. Gaming is another story, depending on the game the temperature will be anywhere from 65c-75c because of the extra heat generated by my SLI 760s. Although they are EVGA with the ACX cooler and they exhaust most of the hot air out the back some of it escapes and contributes to the higher temperatures that the cpu experiences. That's why right now I'm looking into modding my case to increase the airflow because a single 200mm for intake is not enough or buy a new one altogether. Right now I have my sights set on the NZXT Phantom 530 as my next victim.


----------



## kitg90

Hey guys How's the performance of the QF120 performance edition fans for radiators? The fans look nice thinking about using them for a watercooling loop

Thanks


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> @doyll that is true man,, , , My i5 4670 @4.5ghz stays at 65c during stress tests. Gaming is another story, depending on the game the temperature will be anywhere from 65c-75c because of the extra heat generated by my SLI 760s. Although they are EVGA with the ACX cooler and they exhaust most of the hot air out the back some of it escapes and contributes to the higher temperatures that the cpu experiences. That's why right now I'm looking into modding my case to increase the airflow because a single 200mm for intake is not enough or buy a new one altogether. Right now I have my sights set on the NZXT Phantom 530 as my next victim.


Take a look at your ACX cooler fins. Airflow between them exhausts toward and away form motherboard .. that's inside of case.

If you would like to discuss this further, please start a thread as we are hi-jacking Cryorig thread.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> Hey guys How's the performance of the QF120 performance edition fans for radiators? The fans look nice thinking about using them for a watercooling loop
> 
> Thanks


if you go with the qf120 performance it has quite good static pressure 3.33mmH2O at 37db, noctuas comparable model has 2.61 mmH2O , but thats at 22db So if noise isnt a huge issue they would perform better. Although I'm not sure how it scales down with static pressur/noise, so actually it might be close if you bring it down to a comparable sound level.


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> if you go with the qf120 performance it has quite good static pressure 3.33mmH2O at 37db, noctuas comparable model has 2.61 mmH2O , but thats at 22db So if noise isnt a huge issue they would perform better. Although I'm not sure how it scales down with static pressur/noise, so actually it might be close if you bring it down to a comparable sound level.


I assume the 37dB is when the fans are knocked up to 2200rpm.

Was thinking of using them in push pull hovering round 700rpm then probably kick them up if i need the extra cooling.

You reckon at around 700-1100rpm the fans will be loud?

Cheers mate


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> I assume the 37dB is when the fans are knocked up to 2200rpm.
> 
> Was thinking of using them in push pull hovering round 700rpm then probably kick them up if i need the extra cooling.
> 
> You reckon at around 700-1100rpm the fans will be loud?
> 
> Cheers mate


I would assume that the 37db is max. If you look at the qf120 silence it maxes at 1000 rpm which is at 19db, which should translate over with the "performance" version at the same rpm, but then you lose quite a bit of static pressure. I think you have the right idea though, Get the performance version, run them at lower rpms then when the system is stressed just ramp them up. I will say im a little bit biased as I've become a hardcore fan of cryorig the last month or so. If you go this route I'd be really interested in your results, definatley keep us update. Good luck!


----------



## doyll

QF120 Performance Specifications
Speed . . . . 600 ~ 2200 RPM ±10 %
Noise . . . . .13 ~ 37 dBA
Air Flow . . . 83 CFM
Pressure .. . 3.33 mmH2O

37dBA is not at 3.33mmH2O .. 37dBA in open air .. no resistance at all.
3.33mmH2O is the pressure fan builds when there is no airflow at all.
83cfm is also in open air with no resistance.
We do not use fans with no resistance .. or no airflow.

That's not to say the QF120 is not a good fan.
53.3dbA at 6" calculated to be 37-39dBA at 1 meter. Problem is that the sound meter at 6" is not receiving the same sounds it would at 1 meter distance because of the way sound travels .. even in a sound chamber at 19dBA.


I think member geggeg did this review.

Edit:
Add grid line for ease of use.
Testing was done with the fans mounted one at a time on a single Swiftech MCR120QP radiator, with the fan controlled using a dedicated fan controller (Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT) in PWM mode. The controller also enabled RPM readout. Linear airflow was measured using an Extech 45158 Thermo-Anemometer 6″ away from the fan such that it measured the airflow in feet per minute through the radiator. Fan noise was measured in an anechoic chamber of size 5′ x 8′ with ambient noise level ~19 dBA and a sound probe held 6″ away to measure the sound volume in dBA accordingly. The average fan RPM, noise and airflow are shown below.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> QF120 Performance Specifications
> Speed . . . . 600 ~ 2200 RPM ±10 %
> Noise . . . . .13 ~ 37 dBA
> Air Flow . . . 83 CFM
> Pressure .. . 3.33 mmH2O
> 
> 37dBA is not at 3.33mmH2O .. 37dBA in open air .. no resistance at all.
> 3.33mmH2O is the pressure fan builds when there is no airflow at all.
> 83cfm is also in open air with no resistance.
> We do not use fans with no resistance .. or no airflow.
> 
> That's not to say the QF120 is not a good fan.


Awesome chart. My bad, I wasn't thinking in terms of how they actually get the specs. Thanks for correcting me


----------



## VSG

Yeah the fans were better than I expected on rads, and I can imagine it would serve you well. They are priced nicely (atleast in the US), look good, built better than average and Performance PCs is going to carry them based on my recommendation so I am glad it worked out.

Just remember to register these when you get it for the 6 year warranty.

Edit: I should also point out that one of the two fans sent was a preproduction model by mistake which wasn't performing as well as the retail one. So give another few % improvement in airflow to the retail sample. There will still be sample to sample variations but not as mucho what I saw here.


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> I would assume that the 37db is max. If you look at the qf120 silence it maxes at 1000 rpm which is at 19db, which should translate over with the "performance" version at the same rpm, but then you lose quite a bit of static pressure. I think you have the right idea though, Get the performance version, run them at lower rpms then when the system is stressed just ramp them up. I will say im a little bit biased as I've become a hardcore fan of cryorig the last month or so. If you go this route I'd be really interested in your results, definatley keep us update. Good luck!


hey mate yea thinking about just testing 4 of them on a monsta 480. I know for a monsta push and pull is better but want to test a couple of fans. I reckon ill pick up 4 of the QF120s, F3/F4 Vardars and maybe the Corsairs SP120s.

Hopefully can get some decent results
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> QF120 Performance Specifications
> Speed . . . . 600 ~ 2200 RPM ±10 %
> Noise . . . . .13 ~ 37 dBA
> Air Flow . . . 83 CFM
> Pressure .. . 3.33 mmH2O
> 
> 37dBA is not at 3.33mmH2O .. 37dBA in open air .. no resistance at all.
> 3.33mmH2O is the pressure fan builds when there is no airflow at all.
> 83cfm is also in open air with no resistance.
> We do not use fans with no resistance .. or no airflow.
> 
> That's not to say the QF120 is not a good fan.
> 53.3dbA at 6" calculated to be 37-39dBA at 1 meter. Problem is that the sound meter at 6" is not receiving the same sounds it would at 1 meter distance because of the way sound travels .. even in a sound chamber at 19dBA.
> 
> 
> I think member geggeg did this review.
> 
> Edit:
> Add grid line for ease of use.
> Testing was done with the fans mounted one at a time on a single Swiftech MCR120QP radiator, with the fan controlled using a dedicated fan controller (Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT) in PWM mode. The controller also enabled RPM readout. Linear airflow was measured using an Extech 45158 Thermo-Anemometer 6″ away from the fan such that it measured the airflow in feet per minute through the radiator. Fan noise was measured in an anechoic chamber of size 5′ x 8′ with ambient noise level ~19 dBA and a sound probe held 6″ away to measure the sound volume in dBA accordingly. The average fan RPM, noise and airflow are shown below.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah the fans were better than I expected on rads, and I can imagine it would serve you well. They are priced nicely (atleast in the US), look good, built better than average and Performance PCs is going to carry them based on my recommendation so I am glad it worked out.
> 
> Just remember to register these when you get it for the 6 year warranty.
> 
> Edit: I should also point out that one of the two fans sent was a preproduction model by mistake which wasn't performing as well as the retail one. So give another few % improvement in airflow to the retail sample. There will still be sample to sample variations but not as mucho what I saw here.


Thanks for the advice guys thinking about grabbing them today ha!


----------



## Cysquatch

Update on my noisy fan issue. I recieved the replacement fan on saturday, mailed right from Taiwan. I'm actually impressed with the timeframe. My initial PM to steve was 4/16, he got back to me on 4/20, Which he gave me info to contact customer support via email. The email was replied on 4/24 telling me they would ship a replacement. Then replacement was recieved 5/2. So I appreciate they customer service, especially going above and beyond


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> Update on my noisy fan issue. I recieved the replacement fan on saturday, mailed right from Taiwan. I'm actually impressed with the timeframe. My initial PM to steve was 4/16, he got back to me on 4/20, Which he gave me info to contact customer support via email. The email was replied on 4/24 telling me they would ship a replacement. Then replacement was recieved 5/2. So I appreciate they customer service, especially going above and beyond


Thanks for the update.
:thumb:Cryorig customer support is as good as it gets.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks for the update.
> :thumb:Cryorig customer support is as good as it gets.


since they did not want the noisy fan I'm not sure what to do with it? I feel bad having such a nice fan just sitting in a box somewhere. Anyone have suggestions?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> since they did not want the noisy fan I'm not sure what to do with it? I feel bad having such a nice fan just sitting in a box somewhere. Anyone have suggestions?


Keep it as an emergency backup. Always handy to have a spare, even if it is a little noisy.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Keep it as an emergency backup. Always handy to have a spare, even if it is a little noisy.


Thats what i was kind of thinking


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Any word yet on when Newegg will be selling Cryorig stuff in Canada?


----------



## niklot1981

Who likes pastels ?


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niklot1981*
> 
> Who likes pastels ?


That is a nice looking heatsink


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niklot1981*
> 
> Who likes pastels ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


For some reason that looks strangely familiar, but taken with much better camera technique. Looks lovely! (I still love how mine has the Cryorig logo on it ^_^ ))


----------



## idjekyll

Hello all. Thinking of getting the Cryorig C1. Can anyone confirm if I could use other fans beside the stock one?


----------



## kckyle

bought my friend a universal, i hope that thin profile fan isn't s****


----------



## Nizr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *idjekyll*
> 
> Hello all. Thinking of getting the Cryorig C1. Can anyone confirm if I could use other fans beside the stock one?


I can confirm that XF140 works instead of the XT140.. Soo, should work with most fans!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *idjekyll*
> 
> Hello all. Thinking of getting the Cryorig C1. Can anyone confirm if I could use other fans beside the stock one?


Yes, you can use different fans. They just need to have 120mm fan mounting size .. 105mm mounting hole spacing rather than 124.5mm hole spacing of square 140mm fans. You might need longer screws. I don't know if screws for 25mm thick fan are included.


----------



## Nizr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yes, you can use different fans. They just need to have 120mm fan mounting size .. 105mm mounting hole spacing rather than 124.5mm hole spacing of square 140mm fans. You might need longer screws. I don't know if screws for 25mm thick fan are included.


Screws for 25mm thick fans are included.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> bought my friend a universal, i hope that thin profile fan isn't s****


S**** is relative.








You initially asked
Quote:


> question, what the heck is the difference between the ultimate and universal?


Both have same cooling ability with same fans, but universal fin packs have 3-4.5mm more setback from RAM sockets.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> bought my friend a universal, i hope that thin profile fan isn't s****


The XT140 is probably the best 15mm thick fan on the market. Moves a good amount of air and doesn't have the awful noise issues most slim fans have.


----------



## idjekyll

I got a spare GT AP15 fan that I can use. Should I? or the fan that comes with the C1 would be fine or better?


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *idjekyll*
> 
> I got a spare GT AP15 fan that I can use. Should I? or the fan that comes with the C1 would be fine or better?


i would think the factory fan would be better only because it was designed for that heatsink. Maybe do a test betweent the two to see which is better? I'd be interested to see the results


----------



## Dyaems

I tried an AP15 on a C1 before... IIRC the difference between the stock fan and the AP15 (taking the lead) fluctuates between 1-3C on a 4770k. 30C+ intake/ambient, cant recall that one though.


----------



## VSG

GT AP15 will push more air through the C1 heatsink at the same RPM, but the noise levels are similar RPM for RPM. Overall, yes I would go with the AP15s if you have them. Remember that the XT140 is included to keep this a low profile cooler, else they could have just as easily bundled the beefier XF140.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> GT AP15 will push more air through the C1 heatsink at the same RPM, but the noise levels are similar RPM for RPM. Overall, yes I would go with the AP15s if you have them. Remember that the XT140 is included to keep this a low profile cooler, else they could have just as easily bundled the beefier XF140.


Hey VSG, will you be running any tests on the XF 140? I'd be interested to see how you find it. Hardware.fr got some pretty good results from it. Great site BTW thanks


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> Hey VSG, will you be running any tests on the XF 140? I'd be interested to see how you find it. Hardware.fr got some pretty good results from it. Great site BTW thanks


I can do a test of it on a 120mm radiator if you want, but it won't be very useful past that. As far as heatsinks go, I have the C1, R1 and Phanteks PH-TC14PE which accept similar fans but aside from the C1 the others are really a dual fan, dual tower setup so having a single XF140 on them isn't exactly fair.


----------



## maddangerous

Is anyone here using the C1 on an overclocked chip? Was looking at one for my 7850K, I've been trying to read through here but mobile is giving me some issues.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maddangerous*
> 
> Is anyone here using the C1 on an overclocked chip? Was looking at one for my 7850K, I've been trying to read through here but mobile is giving me some issues.


I've tested it on an overclocked 5960x as well as a 4770k. It should handle that ~95 W TDP (which itself is configurable given the nature of APUs) just fine even with a high overclock (should be about 150 W max based on what I have seen).


----------



## maddangerous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I've tested it on an overclocked 5960x as well as a 4770k. It should handle that ~95 W TDP (which itself is configurable given the nature of APUs) just fine even with a high overclock (should be about 150 W max based on what I have seen).


Sweet thanks for the knowledge. I do intend on giving it a good OC as long as I can get past my voltage fluctuating problem. I want a cooler like the C1 to give my vrm heatsinks more airflow


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I can do a test of it on a 120mm radiator if you want, but it won't be very useful past that. As far as heatsinks go, I have the C1, R1 and Phanteks PH-TC14PE which accept similar fans but aside from the C1 the others are really a dual fan, dual tower setup so having a single XF140 on them isn't exactly fair.


Didnt think of the 120mm mountings, do adaptors really screw things up vs something like the Swiftech Helix with the square frame? Would be interesting to see something like Ehumes old well dressed Megahelems for newer 140 fans, putting a single one of each fan in the middle of a dual tower heatsink would be interesting. Anyway off topic mumblings soz.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> Didnt think of the 120mm mountings, do adaptors really screw things up vs something like the Swiftech Helix with the square frame? Would be interesting to see something like Ehumes old well dressed Megahelems for newer 140 fans, putting a single one of each fan in the middle of a dual tower heatsink would be interesting. Anyway off topic mumblings soz.


The case and radiator compatibility is the main issue. This for sure will not fit multiple fan radiators given that the frame has a maximum length of 140mm whereas 120x size radiators account for 120mm fans with 15mm gaps in fan holes.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The case and radiator compatibility is the main issue. This for sure will not fit multiple fan radiators given that the frame has a maximum length of 140mm whereas 120x size radiators account for 120mm fans with 15mm gaps in fan holes.


I undertand it wont fit a multiple 120mm I was more thinking of using a 140 to 120mm adapter on a 140mm rad, I guess then youre losing out on a lot of the airflow making it pointless.

Perhaps Cryorig might consider releasing a square framed slightly higher RPM version of the XF140, be interesting to see how that turned out.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> I undertand it wont fit a multiple 120mm I was more thinking of using a 140 to 120mm adapter on a 140mm rad, I guess then youre losing out on a lot of the airflow making it pointless.
> 
> Perhaps Cryorig might consider releasing a square framed slightly higher RPM version of the XF140, be interesting to see how that turned out.


Ah I see where you are going.

Cryorig's square frame 120mm fans are pretty good for the money- so much so that I managed to convince Performance PCs here in the USA to stock them. I would love to see a 140mm version of the same.


----------



## doyll

Good information being posted!









Just wanted to mention that in many cases mounting the fan to pull air from coolers that mount parallel to the motherboard gives better cooling performance than mounting the fan to push air into cooler. I usually see 5-7c improvement and sometimes even more.

Reason is pushing air toward motherboard it hits mobo, turn out & hits GPU, RAM, I/O housing, etc., turns back up along side of cooler and fans where the fan sucks this heated air back in. Mounting it to pull means airflow is over motherboard to cooler, then up where case airflow carries it away. I've even found this to be true when testing on a bench with a 140mm fan flowing air across the motherboard & cooler when fan is pushing air in.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1347211/thermalright-axp-100-showed-up-today/0_20#post_19033437


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Good information being posted!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to mention that in many cases mounting the fan to pull air from coolers that mount parallel to the motherboard gives better cooling performance than mounting the fan to push air into cooler. I usually see 5-7c improvement and sometimes even more.
> 
> Reason is pushing air toward motherboard it hits mobo, turn out & hits GPU, RAM, I/O housing, etc., turns back up along side of cooler and fans where the fan sucks this heated air back in. Mounting it to pull means airflow is over motherboard to cooler, then up where case airflow carries it away. I've even found this to be true when testing on a bench with a 140mm fan flowing air across the motherboard & cooler when fan is pushing air in.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1347211/thermalright-axp-100-showed-up-today/0_20#post_19033437


I was thinking the total opposite, so thank you for this info. This is good to know


----------



## doyll

It's easy to try and if it doesn't improve temps, easy to switch back


----------



## kckyle

holy crap i really hate the screwing mechanism on this thing, i never had to fight so damn hard to get a screw in on a pc. i did not have as tough as a time installing my megahalem as i did this.

nevertheless i got it installed. temps looks relatively good, haven't oc yet, gonna try find some time this weekend and raise the voltage.


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> holy crap i really hate the screwing mechanism on this thing, i never had to fight so damn hard to get a screw in on a pc. i did not have as tough as a time installing my megahalem as i did this.


You're having a hard time installing with that? Their mounting mechanism is as easy and good as Noctua IMHO... You should try to install a Dark Rock Pro 2 or 3 in your system next time and see if you will rage or not...









..and a Megahalem is a single tower cooler, you should definitely have an easier time installing that!

EDIT: oh, I still have that Illuminated keyboard! Nice slim keyboard right there...


----------



## kckyle

the bottom screw refuse to make contact with the plate, i had to remount if 4 times, pretty sure i made a mess with the tim job. other than that im surprised it block no ram slot


----------



## Dyaems

youre using R1 universal so it should not block any RAMs. i also had an issue with my first time install, but that was user error because i didnt read the manual properly xD


----------



## doyll

I always do a "practice install" to be sure everything is aligning and fitting properly before applying TIM. Only takes a minute and can save a lot of aggravation / frustration.

Cryorig mount is the best. Definitely as good as Noctua and easier to use than Thermalright, bequiet!, Phanteks, etc. First install with many spring loaded coolers can be problematic the first time springs are being compressed, but once they have been compressed they usually don't open up quite as much .. making it easier to install 2nd or 3rd time.


----------



## kckyle

im not saying its a bad mounting mechanism i'm saying they could have added ridges along the slides where the heatsink screw goes in so it doesn't slide all over the place and smear the crap out of the tim. especially since the universal is very rear biased and if i don't have one hand holding it it would rear tip.

btw how does the tim that came with the universal stacks up against mx-2?


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> im not saying its a bad mounting mechanism i'm saying they could have added ridges along the slides where the heatsink screw goes in so it doesn't slide all over the place and smear the crap out of the tim. especially since the universal is very rear biased and if i don't have one hand holding it it would rear tip.
> 
> btw how does the tim that came with the universal stacks up against mx-2?


I've got MX4 and Cryorig CP9 and used both on my Ultimate, no discernable difference in temps.


----------



## VSG

CP9 is a good performer, at least initially, but is slightly harder to apply and dries up quicker than MX4.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> im not saying its a bad mounting mechanism i'm saying they could have added ridges along the slides where the heatsink screw goes in so it doesn't slide all over the place and smear the crap out of the tim. especially since the universal is very rear biased and if i don't have one hand holding it it would rear tip.
> 
> btw how does the tim that came with the universal stacks up against mx-2?


You have trouble installing the cooler and blame the cooler.
What a load!








Buck up! Admit your problems are not just the cooler mount, but have much to do with the installer's abilities.















After all, other users rave about how easy the Cryorig coolers are to mount.


----------



## kckyle

i have installed many aftermarket cooler, ranging from true, mega, corsair's aio. server mounts, mac pros, i admit this is the first time im mounting a cooler this big but there are definitely steps for improvements. so no i don't think its my ability or lack of it as you put it.

if they added ridges along the metal bar that you place the cooler on, it would prevent the cooling from sliding around and spearing up the tim job. since i'm using a horizontal case the cooler kept tipping backwards whenever i left off the slight pressure since the design of this cooler is naturally rear biased.

there was also gap between the backmount and the spacer in the front, i originally thought i had to put the 775's rubber square to eliminate the gap, but the gap turned out to be intentional since otherwise the screw was meant to push up and reach the screw from the cooler. i figure they done this for maximum compatibility but they could have said so in the manual, somewhere along the line of "don't worry about the backplate moving back and forth it's doing that by design"

if people are raving about how easy it is to install this cooler than they obviously never worked with a megahalem

edit: just saw a installation video of a d15, its similar but there are spike on the mounting bar that comes out and meet the screws on the d15, eliminating the guess work you would otherwise need especially when you have tall motherboard heatsink that prevents you from seeing much of what your working on. have i known that i think i would've pick the d15 the first go around. or maybe the next build.

i know i might sound like im nitpicking at this point based on how the screws goes into the arming bar, but when a cooler with this pricetag i was expecting a easier time installation.

you can keep chucking this up and call me incompetent but comparing this to other cooler's mounting mechanism i would not put this on the top of the list.


----------



## EdTheHead

Well it's a good thing you only have to (hopefully) install the cooler once. While I did initially have trouble installing my R1 Universal, once I figured out what I did wrong, I did not have trouble correctly mounting it. I think you can chalk up your difficulty installing this to the size of the cooler. I don't think it's fair to say that for the price, it should be easier to install. IMO, as far as big coolers, cryorig did a great job with the mounting system. You cannot compare it to a megahalems, due to the fact that the cooler is shaped completely differently, does not have fans attached to it, and this allows one easier access to the screws.


----------



## kckyle

that is true, its not fair to me to compare it to the mega since it's not in the same caliper of cooler, but my problem wasn't reaching the screws, it was getting them to make contact with the mounting bar. thats why i keep complaining how there should be a ridge or something or a spike like the d15 that can give you a better chance of ballparking. not to mention i had to insert a finger on the bottom of the mounting bar, push it up to meet the screw while holding the r1 so it won't tip backwards.


----------



## doyll

What EdTheHead said.









Installing many coolers and installing big coolers is the difference. You are in a very small minority of people with problems installing the Cryorigs .. and there are many many people who have installed them with little or no problems .. less problems than any other big cooler with NH-D15 and PH-TC14PE being similar in ease to install.

But by all means keep on blaming the Cryorig mount.








Will be very interesting to see how many more people say the same thing you are already hearing about Cryorig installation.


----------



## ruffhi

Ok ... I'll bite. I installed a C1 in a ML07B and the C1 cooler is big ... covers my whole mobo (slight exaggeration) ... peering under / between the cooler was difficult with my old eyes. It took me a while to get the screws in the right position and I am pretty sure that I got the TIM spread around very nicely







.

I did a test install and, in hide-sight, I should have put marks on the C1 shroud and the case so that I knew how to line up the cooler with the screw holes.


----------



## kckyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Ok ... I'll bite. I installed a C1 in a ML07B and the C1 cooler is big ... covers my whole mobo (slight exaggeration) ... peering under / between the cooler was difficult with my old eyes. It took me a while to get the screws in the right position and I am pretty sure that I got the TIM spread around very nicely
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I did a test install and, in hide-sight, I should have put marks on the C1 shroud and the case so that I knew how to line up the cooler with the screw holes.


that was the first problem i had, lining up the screw with something this big was more difficult than i expected, i should have taken off the middle fan instead of following the instruction.


----------



## doyll

ruffhi








For me the practice install has two purposes;
1/ To be sure everything is lining up properly and mounts up as it should
2/ To figure out exactly where to index (set) the cooler so mounting screws line up and start properly.

I usually use features on cooler and motherboard for indexing, but sometimes index marks are needed.

Trial assembling is common practice for mechanics. Nothing worse then damaging an expensive gasket trying to get something lined up .. when a few minutes trial fitting it to be sure of placement (or that you have proper replacement) would have saved the day.








.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Trial assembling is common practice for mechanics. Nothing worse then damaging an expensive gasket trying to get something lined up .. when a few minutes trial fitting it to be sure of placement (or that you have proper replacement) would have saved the day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Agreed. Next time for sure!!


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What EdTheHead said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Installing many coolers and installing big coolers is the difference. You are in a very small minority of people with problems installing the Cryorigs .. and there are many many people who have installed them with little or no problems .. less problems than any other big cooler with NH-D15 and PH-TC14PE being similar in ease to install.
> 
> But by all means keep on blaming the Cryorig mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be very interesting to see how many more people say the same thing you are already hearing about Cryorig installation.


I will say I had difficulty getting it mounted the first time. I removed the middle fan, that way you can see that you're lined up. It took a lot more pressure than i thought it would. I also felt that I made a mess of the thermalpaste. So i decided to remount, and doyll is right it does get easier after the springs are compressed. All that being said, I really do think its a good mounting system, there are some horrible ones out there.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> I will say I had difficulty getting it mounted the first time. I removed the middle fan, that way you can see that you're lined up. It took a lot more pressure than i thought it would. I also felt that I made a mess of the thermalpaste. So i decided to remount, and doyll is right it does get easier after the springs are compressed. All that being said, I really do think its a good mounting system, there are some horrible ones out there.


There are a lot of comments like this floating around, and I am really confused by them - *especially* the reference to pressure being required. I have mounted the R1, C1 and H5 at least twenty times each, and never once had to apply any pressure. When I say "never", I mean never....and literally _no_ pressure. If you drop the cooler on, the mounting screws line up and can be started prior to the base making contact with the CPU. It was designed that way so that no pressure is required.

Out of curiosity, are people attempting to fully tighten one of the mounting screws prior to starting the other? That would be the only thing I can think of. This is literally the easiest mounting kit I have used, and I am pretty sure I have used just about all of them.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There are a lot of comments like this floating around, and I am really confused by them - *especially* the reference to pressure being required. I have mounted the R1, C1 and H5 at least twenty times each, and never once had to apply any pressure. When I say "never", I mean never....and literally _no_ pressure. If you drop the cooler on, the mounting screws line up and can be started prior to the base making contact with the CPU. It was designed that way so that no pressure is required.
> 
> Out of curiosity, are people attempting to fully tighten one of the mounting screws prior to starting the other? That would be the only thing I can think of. This is literally the easiest mounting kit I have used, and I am pretty sure I have used just about all of them.


On my system with the cooler in place the screws would not start into the hole without applying a decent amount of pressure to the screwdriver


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> If you drop the cooler on, the mounting screws line up and can be started prior to the base making contact with the CPU. It was designed that way so that no pressure is required.


For me, is was all about my inability to line up the screws with the holds. I was adding the C1 to an ITX mobo in a ML07B ... and I just couldn't see the @#@#[email protected] holes in the base.

As said a few times in the last few posts ... a dry mount test run plus marking up my shroud / case with guidelines would have solved my mounting issues.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> On my system with the cooler in place the screws would not start into the hole without applying a decent amount of pressure to the screwdriver


I see you are using an AMD, so it could well be the case there. The Phanteks and Noctua mounts have that issue on AMD, also. I haven't had the opportunity to use the AMD mounts, so I would be purely speculating.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> For me, is was all about my inability to line up the screws with the holds. I was adding the C1 to an ITX mobo in a ML07B ... and I just couldn't see the @#@#[email protected] holes in the base.
> 
> As said a few times in the last few posts ... a dry mount test run plus marking up my shroud / case with guidelines would have solved my mounting issues.


The blind fishing for the holes is not fun, even after the markup. But, that would really pertain to any topdown cooler in that case.


----------



## doyll

Just got work Cryorig is almost ready to release their "CUSTOMOD" colored shrouds for R1.
I like the interactive display for comparing shroud and motherboard colors: thumb:.
http://www.cryorig.com/customod_r1.php

Will also be releasing three different Cryo-Pastes.
http://www.cryorig.com/cp.php


----------



## Dyaems

That spreader thingy is nice... to put in my wallet for display


----------



## kckyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There are a lot of comments like this floating around, and I am really confused by them - *especially* the reference to pressure being required. I have mounted the R1, C1 and H5 at least twenty times each, and never once had to apply any pressure. When I say "never", I mean never....and literally _no_ pressure. If you drop the cooler on, the mounting screws line up and can be started prior to the base making contact with the CPU. It was designed that way so that no pressure is required.
> 
> Out of curiosity, are people attempting to fully tighten one of the mounting screws prior to starting the other? That would be the only thing I can think of. This is literally the easiest mounting kit I have used, and I am pretty sure I have used just about all of them.


i wish i had a easier time like you did. the screws lined up fine, but it won't reach the hole. i had to apply a good amount of pressure, to the point where i can see the motherboard flex a bit, and even thn i can't get the screws in. the spring was extremely stiff on one side, so what i did was tip the cooler biased to the stiff spring first to get the screw in, and thn press really hard on the other side to get the other one in. all the while struggling to keep the cooler from rear tipping and not to smear the tim job


----------



## kraze94

hi guys~ greetings from Malaysia~ newbie here

i recently bought H5 Universal and two XF140 fan for my NZXT S340 case

it's really a pain in the arse to install it directly onto your mobo without removing the mobo first from the chassis..








I noticed the H5 have small vibrations when it's turning..it's the first time i bought an aftermarket cooler so..is the vibrations considered normal?

and sadly the XF140 fans are not compatible at all for front intake of NZXT S340..problem is that the fan's screw holes match the case's screw holes for 120mm fan and not screw holes for 140mm fan..this means i can only fit one XF140 fan on the front intake, that's it..i can't even fit other 120mm fan on top of the xf140 fan coz the xf140's taking the space and blocking the screw holes for another fan...there's like a flaw on xf140 design..

i end up have to use the the xf140 fan for top exhaust and replaced the H5's XT140 fan with XF140 fan..(technically now it's a H5 Ultimate







)


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kraze94*
> 
> hi guys~ greetings from Malaysia~ newbie here
> 
> i recently bought H5 Universal and two XF140 fan for my NZXT S340 case
> 
> it's really a pain in the arse to install it directly onto your mobo without removing the mobo first from the chassis..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed the H5 have small vibrations when it's turning..it's the first time i bought an aftermarket cooler so..is the vibrations considered normal?
> 
> and sadly the XF140 fans are not compatible at all for front intake of NZXT S340..problem is that the fan's screw holes match the case's screw holes for 120mm fan and not screw holes for 140mm fan..this means i can only fit one XF140 fan on the front intake, that's it..i can't even fit other 120mm fan on top of the xf140 fan coz the xf140's taking the space and blocking the screw holes for another fan...there's like a flaw on xf140 design..
> 
> i end up have to use the the xf140 fan for top exhaust and replaced the H5's XT140 fan with XF140 fan..(technically now it's a H5 Ultimate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


It's not a flaw with the fans design. It's a 140mm fan with 120mm mounts. A few manufacturers make these. You need standard 120mm or 140mm fans.


----------



## kckyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kraze94*
> 
> hi guys~ greetings from Malaysia~ newbie here
> 
> i recently bought H5 Universal and two XF140 fan for my NZXT S340 case
> 
> it's really a pain in the arse to install it directly onto your mobo without removing the mobo first from the chassis..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed the H5 have small vibrations when it's turning..it's the first time i bought an aftermarket cooler so..is the vibrations considered normal?
> 
> and sadly the XF140 fans are not compatible at all for front intake of NZXT S340..problem is that the fan's screw holes match the case's screw holes for 120mm fan and not screw holes for 140mm fan..this means i can only fit one XF140 fan on the front intake, that's it..i can't even fit other 120mm fan on top of the xf140 fan coz the xf140's taking the space and blocking the screw holes for another fan...there's like a flaw on xf140 design..
> 
> i end up have to use the the xf140 fan for top exhaust and replaced the H5's XT140 fan with XF140 fan..(technically now it's a H5 Ultimate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


thats outrageous, it must be user error. according to boyll its one of the easiest coolers to install


----------



## kraze94

I see..there's chassis that can support such mounts?

darn..i don't know which decision is bad, using S340 as my case or buying the XF140s..

i barely fit the H5 into the s340 too actually..with only a few millimeters of height clearance..


----------



## kraze94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> thats outrageous, it must be user error. according to boyll its one of the easiest coolers to install


it is easy..but that's if you install the heatsink after removing the motherboard from the case first..

i tried installing it for hours while the mobo still in my case..can't determine whether the spring screws aligned with screw holes or not..

then i tried removing it first from the case, only took me like 5 minutes to install the H5


----------



## doyll

Welcome @kraze94








H5 is a nice cooler. Big enough to have good cooling and small enough to fit most systems.


----------



## kraze94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Welcome @kraze94
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> H5 is a nice cooler. Big enough to have good cooling and small enough to fit most systems.


thanks~









btw u guys still haven't answered my first question..is the small vibrations normal?


----------



## kckyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kraze94*
> 
> thanks~
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw u guys still haven't answered my first question..is the small vibrations normal?


no. there shouldn't be any vibration at all.


----------



## kraze94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> no. there shouldn't be any vibration at all.


aww man..then what could cause it?









i'm pretty sure i install it correctly..the Acoustic Vibration Absorbers doesn't work properly maybe..?


----------



## doyll

Balance or oscillation in the fan is the cause of vibration. Try taking the fan off and running it while holding it and see if you feel the vibration. Spin the blades by hand and watch to see if the blades are spinning true or wobbling in and out as the fan turns. If you notice either of the above, it's the fan. If you don't its something else in your computer.


----------



## kckyle

i have a problem, turned on the pc today, start hearing chopping noises, when i stop the fans on the cryorig it stilled, do i contact cryorig or newegg, if i contact newegg im afraid all they gonna do is make me uninstall the whole thing (which i REALLY prefer not to), or can cryorig just sent me fan replacements that easy?


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> i have a problem, turned on the pc today, start hearing chopping noises, when i stop the fans on the cryorig it stilled, do i contact cryorig or newegg, if i contact newegg im afraid all they gonna do is make me uninstall the whole thing (which i REALLY prefer not to), or can cryorig just sent me fan replacements that easy?


A chopping noise like something is touching the fans? I would contact Cryorig directly. Newegg will just have you RMA the whole unit. Make sure you register using the registration card that came with the cooler before contacting Cryorig.


----------



## kckyle

no its not touching anything, from what i try to observe so far, its a bit more like..ah i cant really describe it, its like something my really old case fan would make.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> i have a problem, turned on the pc today, start hearing chopping noises, when i stop the fans on the cryorig it stilled, do i contact cryorig or newegg, if i contact newegg im afraid all they gonna do is make me uninstall the whole thing (which i REALLY prefer not to), or can cryorig just sent me fan replacements that easy?


I have no idea what is going on here. First you are getting the R1 Universal for a friend, then you have trouble getting it mounted, now both fans are making noise.

What is really going on ?


----------



## kckyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have no idea what is going on here. First you are getting the R1 Universal for a friend, then you have trouble getting it mounted, now both fans are making noise.
> 
> What is really going on ?


you pretty much said it,

i turned on the pc today, had my last final so i got some time to install couple software he ask me to do, 2 min after boot i noticed this choppy noise, not sure if it was coming from my pc or his, thn i shut off my pc and the noise was still there, opened up his, moved my head around until i hear the noise coming from the cpu area, unplugged case fans, still there, unplugged the fans from the universal, it stopped.

and since i spoke about the trouble i had mounting, it seems couple others have came out and stated their initial difficulties as well, doesn't seen like i'm the only one. i wish i was, cause then at least i know its probably a one off scenario

anyways, i shoot cryorig a email asking what i can, would oiling the fans myself void some sort of warranty? the last thing i want to do is unmounted it and repackage it up.


----------



## doyll

You can use other fans on cooler. I also doubt that both fans are bad, so figure out which one is making the noise and take it off. Run with a single fan for now.


----------



## kckyle

i don't have roundish 140mm fans laying around, the fan clipping only works with the round corner ones, i currently have one fan unplugged since the noise is very annoying. left cryorig a email and lets see how good their warranty is.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> i don't have roundish 140mm fans laying around, the fan clipping only works with the round corner ones, i currently have one fan unplugged since the noise is very annoying. left cryorig a email and lets see how good their warranty is.


In order for warranty to be valid you have to register the cooler and fans. If you have not registered the product you are putting Cryorig in an loose / loose position. How can the supply you with fans if you did not register so they know you have the cooler?


----------



## kckyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> In order for warranty to be valid you have to register the cooler and fans. If you have not registered the product you are putting Cryorig in an loose / loose position. How can the supply you with fans if you did not register so they know you have the cooler?


i registered already


----------



## Cysquatch

I had a noisy fan, supplied them with the necessary information and was taken care of very well


----------



## kckyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> I had a noisy fan, supplied them with the necessary information and was taken care of very well


sweet good to know,


----------



## idjekyll

anyone knows where I can get the R1 now? Seems like this is the more elusive cooler in the market!..


----------



## doyll

Availability depends on where you are. They are available here in UK and in most of Europe.

If you cannot get the R1 Ulitmate, the R1 Universal has same cooling ability if front fan is changed to 25mm XF140 fan.

post #1329 shows the difference between the Universal and Ultimate and in my testing I can't find any difference in performance when both have same fans.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *idjekyll*
> 
> anyone knows where I can get the R1 now? Seems like this is the more elusive cooler in the market!..


I'm going to add to that. . . many of my friends want an R1 after it blew their h90/h100 out of the water while being quiet but the problem is that they are unavailable in the U.S. I think you guys should keep them in stock in newegg. If you're in the U.S just should check out the crazy prices that the R1 ultimate/universal are going for in ebay. Cheapest buy it now is $157 all the way up to $215. . . . On a different note my XF140 arrived today and will be hooked up later.


----------



## VSG

Yeah Cryorig underestimated their own popularity and the increase in countries they now sell in meant that production could not catch up with demand. Hopefully things work out soon!


----------



## doyll

Newegg has a R1 Universal open box for $45.00 delivered.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

I'm still hoping direct sales in Canada will be possible soon. Would be nice to buy it within the country


----------



## doyll

Hopefully Cryorig can get their production speed up to match demand.


----------



## kckyle

does anyone know where i can get the fan clippings for the r1 universal 25mm, if i'm gonna swap out the faulty slim profile fan i might as well get a 25mm one instead,

the temp difference between ultimate and universal, is it down to just the fans difference?


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> does anyone know where i can get the fan clippings for the r1 universal 25mm, if i'm gonna swap out the faulty slim profile fan i might as well get a 25mm one instead,
> 
> the temp difference between ultimate and universal, is it down to just the fans difference?


there are extra clips in the package


----------



## kckyle

thanks i realized it 3 hours after my post, went through the package again and realized the 4 clips in the box 2 of them are for 25mm, i originally thought they were all for slim profile fans since they are very similar in length and curvature


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> thanks i realized it 3 hours after my post, went through the package again and realized the 4 clips in the box 2 of them are for 25mm, i originally thought they were all for slim profile fans since they are very similar in length and curvature


Did Cryorig help you with a fan replacement?


----------



## VSG

Did you guys see this: http://www.cryorig.com/news.php?id=43&page=1?


----------



## Dyaems

Holy crap that is a LOT









The Z1 reminds me of that Zalman cooler though


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Am I imagining things or are they teasing some sort of CLC in the video? Interested to see which OEM they are using for the PSU's as well, I'm sure they will be some of the best looking available whatever happens.


----------



## Dyaems

Yeah, it is most likely a CLC. Hope it is expandable too


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Yeah, it is most likely a CLC. Hope it is expandable too


That would also be a bonus







. It's the 'hybrid' part that has me wondering. How are they keeping the area around the socket that much cooler? Interesting.


----------



## Dyaems

Oh yeah, I did not notice that! Maybe there is a fan inside the block lol... ok ok I'll stop speculating


----------



## VSG

Top down style cooler with a waterblock on it? Either way, I am definitely interested


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Top down style cooler with a waterblock on it? Either way, I am definitely interested


Looks that way from the silhouette (spellled that right first time, boom







) If it is it's a very small one, perhaps pulling air in the top and out the sides? Dont know, I would imagine that would be pretty loud if that were the case. Anyway the silhouette definitely has something attached there. We'll see soon.


----------



## kckyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> Did Cryorig help you with a fan replacement?


i sent them one message but no reply so a week later i sent another, this time they replied, so i responded with more info and a audio clip of the fan noise. and that was on sunday. not the quickest customer support i seen.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Finally jammed the 3rd fan in there. . . After 15 minutes of struggling to hook up the fan to the header I realized that I need a bigger pc case.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> Finally jammed the 3rd fan in there. . . After 15 minutes of struggling to hook up the fan to the header I realized that I need a bigger pc case.


That is a sung fit! I would think about removing that corsair exhaust behind to cooler, it may actually be preventing proper airflow.


----------



## doyll

Z1 Universal looks like it might be the bee's knees.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> That is a sung fit! I would think about removing that corsair exhaust behind to cooler, it may actually be preventing proper airflow.


You think so? It's blowing air out like a leaf blower lol


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> You think so? It's blowing air out like a leaf blower lol


depending on if it matches or exceeds the amount of air exiting the cooler it can make a difference. For the little bit of work it would take I would say its worth testing.







Also forgot to mention, that looks fantastic in your build!


----------



## maddangerous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Z1 Universal looks like it might be the bee's knees.


I agree. Looks like it would give some airflow to everything around it too. Maybe a competitor to the prolimatech genesis in that area? Lol


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Holy crap that is a LOT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Z1 reminds me of that Zalman cooler though


Zalman on serious steriods maybe


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> depending on if it matches or exceeds the amount of air exiting the cooler it can make a difference. For the little bit of work it would take I would say its worth testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also forgot to mention, that looks fantastic in your build!


I'll do it later to see if there is any difference, , , either way it looks like I'll have to de-lid my cpu because under load the coolest core is ~62c and the hottest is ~70. Haswell has screwed yet another person. But still those temps are a huge improvement over the 212 evo where the hottest core was 86c.


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Z1 Universal looks like it might be the bee's knees.


I've been wanting a zalman replacement for a very long time.







Hopefully it isn't too wide to block the first PCI-E slot and DRAM modules on a X79 board.


----------



## doyll

At a guess it is 140mm wide. The fans are 140 and it\s looks the same


----------



## Dave6531

Digging the new z1 cant wait itll look good on my x99 build. Wonder if you'll be able to take the shrouds off to paint. And it looks like it might fit in my s340 case. Link to artical on new cryorig items. http://www.overclock3d.net/articles/cases_cooling/cryorig_teases_its_computex_2015_lineup/1


----------



## kckyle

z1 good looking, too bad me and my friend already bought the r1


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> At a guess it is 140mm wide. The fans are 140 and it\s looks the same


Well I hope they make a 120mm variant of the Z1. I wanted to get the R1 Universal quite long ago but of course, its mean't for the mainstream chipset platform. Theres hardly any good dual tower cooler that doesn't block PCI-E and DRAM slots. Otherwise I'm about to pull the trigger for the Gelid Black Edition which is pretty much the only decent 120mm dual tower design thats fully X79 friendly. I been stuck on this Zalman for quite some time now with little options to move to.


----------



## kckyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> Well I hope they make a 120mm variant of the Z1. I wanted to get the R1 Universal quite long ago but of course, its mean't for the mainstream chipset platform. Theres hardly any good dual tower cooler that doesn't block PCI-E and DRAM slots. Otherwise I'm about to pull the trigger for the Gelid Black Edition which is pretty much the only decent 120mm dual tower design thats fully X79 friendly. I been stuck on this Zalman for quite some time now with little options to move to.


im not sure what you read but the r1 universal doesn't block ram slot nor pcie slot


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> im not sure what you read but the r1 universal doesn't block ram slot nor pcie slot


Several review sites.

That may be true for the Z-## chipset boards but, on X-## boards will likely have clearance issues with the nearest PCI-E slot to the socket. Plus the rear fin stack will float above the rear ram modules of the board. In the end its really the board design that limits clearance for heatsinks, I might be in bad luck since the socket of my board is much closer to the PCI-E slot which limits me to 120-135mm coolers.


I know this the Ultimate version though i guess there's little difference between the two. I'd hate to shell out another 300-400 dollars for standard height modules.


----------



## VSG

There is a lot of difference between the two, and mostly related to RAM compatibility. But the x99 SOC Champion is a different beast altogether as far as RAM and air coolers go.


----------



## CrazyElf

Any word on whether or not there will be an "Ultimate" version of the Z1? How well do you think it will perform compared to the R1 Ultimate? Better, worse, or about the same?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> Several review sites.
> 
> That may be true for the Z-## chipset boards but, on X-## boards will likely have clearance issues with the nearest PCI-E slot to the socket. Plus the rear fin stack will float above the rear ram modules of the board. In the end its really the board design that limits clearance for heatsinks, I might be in bad luck since the socket of my board is much closer to the PCI-E slot which limits me to 120-135mm coolers.
> 
> 
> I know this the Ultimate version though i guess there's little difference between the two. I'd hate to shell out another 300-400 dollars for standard height modules.


You can move the fans up if you have case clearance. The end result would look like this:



Personally I'd recommend getting RAM with removable heat-spreaders, like the G.Skill TridentX, which also happen to be some of the best overclocking RAM around. Either that or stick with low profile RAM as for most applications, RAM doesn't really improve performance much, even with super speeds and tight timings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> I've been wanting a zalman replacement for a very long time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully it isn't too wide to block the first PCI-E slot and DRAM modules on a X79 board.


Cryorig will probably release some Origami sets to see whether your motherboard can fit it. They did for the R1.

I wish they made more XL ATX boards for that reason - it would also lead to more case compatibility.

Another thing you could try is a riser cable.

Slot 1: Riser x-16 and put GPU into slot 8 (assuming you have 9 PCI-E case slots).

Slot 4: GPU x16

They often used Risers back when Bitcoin mining was viable on GPUs.


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyElf*
> 
> Any word on whether or not there will be an "Ultimate" version of the Z1? How well do you think it will perform compared to the R1 Ultimate? Better, worse, or about the same?
> You can move the fans up if you have case clearance. The end result would look like this:
> 
> 
> 
> Personally I'd recommend getting RAM with removable heat-spreaders, like the G.Skill TridentX, which also happen to be some of the best overclocking RAM around. Either that or stick with low profile RAM as for most applications, RAM doesn't really improve performance much, even with super speeds and tight timings.
> Cryorig will probably release some Origami sets to see whether your motherboard can fit it. They did for the R1.
> 
> I wish they made more XL ATX boards for that reason - it would also lead to more case compatibility.
> 
> Another thing you could try is a riser cable.
> 
> Slot 1: Riser x-16 and put GPU into slot 8 (assuming you have 9 PCI-E case slots).
> 
> Slot 4: GPU x16
> 
> They often used Risers back when Bitcoin mining was viable on GPUs.


Yeah, I'll be certainly go back to low profile and removable heat spreader DRAM modules on my next major upgrade. Unfortunately theres not much room in my case to mount the fans higher and my case is limited to 7 slots standard. Risers won't work as my GPUs PCB are very tall that my PSU cables have very little room to allow any extra height.

I've made up my mind to wait for more details of the Z1 reveal at Computex and following reviews. Will keep an eye on this thread for updates on Cryorig's reps here if they do post here often.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> Well I hope they make a 120mm variant of the Z1. I wanted to get the R1 Universal quite long ago but of course, its mean't for the mainstream chipset platform. Theres hardly any good dual tower cooler that doesn't block PCI-E and DRAM slots. Otherwise I'm about to pull the trigger for the Gelid Black Edition which is pretty much the only decent 120mm dual tower design thats fully X79 friendly. I been stuck on this Zalman for quite some time now with little options to move to.


While it's Z87..... The R1 Ultimate doesn't interfere with the first PCIe slot on a Z87X-OC. Might not fit if there's a backplate though.


----------



## kckyle

i know it won't blow pcie slot no matter what mobo platform since the r1 universal's width is far as the ram's bottom secure clipping goes. and i don't know any motherboard that has it's pcie slot pass the ram's securing clip.

as for ram. its understandable if you have a x99 since it's both side of the cpu. if im getting another enthusiast platform i'm def going low profile ram.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> Well I hope they make a 120mm variant of the Z1. I wanted to get the R1 Universal quite long ago but of course, its mean't for the mainstream chipset platform. Theres hardly any good dual tower cooler that doesn't block PCI-E and DRAM slots. Otherwise I'm about to pull the trigger for the Gelid Black Edition which is pretty much the only decent 120mm dual tower design thats fully X79 friendly. I been stuck on this Zalman for quite some time now with little options to move to.


Never had a chance to try th Gelid Black Edition but always wanted to. There are also some very good single tower coolers. Are you talking about your sig rig?

[quote name="kckyle" url="/t/1461923/cryorig-fan-cooler-club-r1-ult-r1-uni-c1-h5-xf140-xt140/1420_20#post_23960585"]i know it won't blow pcie slot no matter what mobo platform since the r1 universal's width is far as the ram's bottom secure clipping goes. and i don't know any motherboard that has it's pcie slot pass the ram's securing clip.

as for ram. its understandable if you have a x99 since it's both side of the cpu. if im getting another enthusiast platform i'm def going low profile ram.[/quote]
You are way out of line. There are many motherboards with CPU socket too close to PCIe sockets to clear almost all of the top coolers.

PCIe socket placement is standardized (for case compatability). BUT RAM and CPU sockets do not have a standardized placement

While most CPU sockets are about 70mm from center CPU, there are others like EVGA X99 FTW and Foxconn H55 that is only 62mm .. GA-F2A88XN-WiF is only 59mm. Then there are the motherboards with first 16x slot in 2nd position at 75mm or more from center CPU but 1st slot being 21.3mm closer to CPU.

Then there are the motherboards with first 16x slot in 2nd position at 75mm or more from center CPU but 1st slot being 21.3mm closer to CPU.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There is a lot of difference between the two, and mostly related to RAM compatibility. But the x99 SOC Champion is a different beast altogether as far as RAM and air coolers go.


Indeed.
Starting with front of R1 Universal being 4.5mm closer to CPU.




But they are both 141.5mm wide with fan clips .. so 71mm from center CPU to PCIe socket is needed.
And the back of cooler will not clear tall RAM


----------



## gerpogi

Hello guys I'm planning to buy the h5a but I'm not sure if it'll block the first pci e. I have an matx mobo, asrock h97m pro4, and my graphic card is at the very top pci e slot. Will this cooler make contact with my graphic card?


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gerpogi*
> 
> Hello guys I'm planning to buy the h5a but I'm not sure if it'll block the first pci e. I have an matx mobo, asrock h97m pro4, and my graphic card is at the very top pci e slot. Will this cooler make contact with my graphic card?


Could be close...


Can test your motherboard and origami skills with the full scale mockup: http://www.cryorig.com/images/tester/h5-universal/h5-universal_socket_115x.pdf


----------



## gerpogi

Hmm. Does anyone here have their graphic card in the first slot here though? If so, did it fit?


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gerpogi*
> 
> Hmm. Does anyone here have their graphic card in the first slot here though? If so, did it fit?


Like micro cat said, Print out the template and test fit it.


----------



## doyll

@MicroCat Why post a pic of a motherboard that is not the same as gerpogi is asking about? PCIe sockets have standard placement, CPU and RAM sockets move all over the upper half of PCB.









I that yesterday after kckyle went off making false statements about "]i know it won't blow pcie slot no matter what mobo platform" two past before yours.
















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gerpogi*
> 
> Hello guys I'm planning to buy the h5a but I'm not sure if it'll block the first pci e. I have an matx mobo, asrock h97m pro4, and my graphic card is at the very top pci e slot. Will this cooler make contact with my graphic card?


It will fit no problem.
Your motherboard has 76mm center CPU to edge of first PCIe socket. H5 is 70.5mm center to side of fian clip, which is 0.5mm beyond side of cooler.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> PCIe sockets have standard placement, CPU and RAM sockets move all over the upper half of PCB.


Actually......Intel does have a standard for placement that almost every MB adheres to.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Actually......Intel does have a standard for placement that almost every MB adheres to.


Intel standard is not followed as closely as it should .. evidenced above in post #1433 .. and that is only a few of thes differences. mATX and ITX boards are the worst, but by no means the only motherboards having non-standard CPU socket placement. I have a library of motherboard vies with measurements from center of CPU to PCIe and RAM sockets to back up my statement. It is what I use to verify if coolers will fit on user motherboards.


----------



## gerpogi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @MicroCat Why post a pic of a motherboard that is not the same as gerpogi is asking about? PCIe sockets have standard placement, CPU and RAM sockets move all over the upper half of PCB.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I that yesterday after kckyle went off making false statements about "]i know it won't blow pcie slot no matter what mobo platform" two past before yours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will fit no problem.
> Your motherboard has 76mm center CPU to edge of first PCIe socket. H5 is 70.5mm center to side of fian clip, which is 0.5mm beyond side of cooler.


I see thank you for that very helpful info. 1 last question though, will the h5 have a better fit than the thermalright macho rev b ? I'm trying to decide between the 2..


----------



## doyll

I have both and think both are very good.
Your Z97M Pro4 has 76mm center CPU to PCIe socket and 50mm to RAM socket.
Both will clear the PCIe socket.
H5 is 72.3mm toward PCIe
Macho is 70mm
H5 will clear all RAM while Macho fan clearance is dependent on height of RAM.
H5 is 44.3 to front of fan
Macho is 53mm to front of fan.
With Machot depends on your RAM height and case CPU clearance.

CPU clearance + 5mm = fan + RAM height.
Link to drawing of how CPU, RAM and case to cooler clearances work.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/20_20#post_23232751


----------



## gerpogi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have both and think both are very good.
> Your Z97M Pro4 has 76mm center CPU to PCIe socket and 50mm to RAM socket.
> Both will clear the PCIe socket.
> H5 is 72.3mm toward PCIe
> Macho is 70mm
> H5 will clear all RAM while Macho fan clearance is dependent on height of RAM.
> H5 is 44.3 to front of fan
> Macho is 53mm to front of fan.
> With Machot depends on your RAM height and case CPU clearance.
> 
> CPU clearance + 5mm = fan + RAM height.
> Link to drawing of how CPU, RAM and case to cooler clearances work.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/20_20#post_23232751


Thank you doyll you have been very helpful and Informative. I really appreciate your help.


----------



## tonyptony

I've been very interested in picking up a Cryorig for my new Asus Z87 Sabertooth, but I'm not sure which model will be the best fit for clearing the armor, DIMM Slot 1, and the PCIe Slot1. I don't do insane oc'ing; looking for the best bang for the best fit.

The other question is - where on Earth can I get them in the U.S.? Newegg only has a couple. I can't find any other sellers.


----------



## kckyle

your only bet that i know off is cryorig store on newegg, shipping does take a while though. fedex is taking its sweet time with my 2nd r1


----------



## doyll

as kckyle said, Newegg. Also Amazon. Sadly no R1s' in stock in America.









@tonyptony
Z87 Sabertooth from center CPU toward PCIe is 92mm and toward RAM is 51.5mm.

Cooler Size and Clearance Comparison
From "Ways to Better Cooling" thread. Not complete. I need to add many more.


----------



## tonyptony

Thanks doyll.

@kckyle, what sort of time are we talking about to get one from Newegg?

So any HS with less than 51.5mm RAM clearance will probably cause problems? It's not clear to me if RAM Clearance on the listed post is for height or if it's distance to the first DIMM slot.


----------



## kckyle

i live on the east coast, so it takes about a 6-8 business days. the first r1 took about a week and a half to arrive, the 2nd one it's about a week now and tracking told me its coming today or tomorrow


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonyptony*
> 
> Thanks doyll.
> 
> @kckyle, what sort of time are we talking about to get one from Newegg?
> 
> So any HS with less than 51.5mm RAM clearance will probably cause problems? It's not clear to me if RAM Clearance on the listed post is for height or if it's distance to the first DIMM slot.


Since I have had all of the Cryorig coolers on that board....They all clear the armor, even the C1. The R1 and H5 Universal models clear all of the RAM slots. They will all clear the first x16 slot, but I am not positive about the first x4 slot - I just never noticed.


----------



## tonyptony

@ciarlatano, thanks that's good info. The R1 Universal is my primary choice but doesn't look like I can get one (where did you get yours?). I'm wondering if the H5U will be "good enough" for OC'ing to about 4.3GHz.

If this minor OT I allowed which cooler did you think gave the best bang for the size on this mboard?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonyptony*
> 
> @ciarlatano, thanks that's good info. The R1 Universal is my primary choice but doesn't look like I can get one (where did you get yours?). I'm wondering if the H5U will be "good enough" for OC'ing to about 4.3GHz.
> 
> If this minor OT I allowed which cooler did you think gave the best bang for the size on this mboard?


4.2 on a 4770K really didn't push the H5U to its limits - https://youtu.be/ZWHGMItcAVM .


----------



## kckyle

this just came


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> this just came
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What is better than an R1? Two R1s!


----------



## kckyle

i'm gonna see if i can SLI them


----------



## tonyptony

Well, much as I would love to try one of these H5 Universal jobs I'm not sure I can get one in time for me to fully test out my MB before the Newegg return period expires. I ordered a Noctua NH-U12S instead. I know it's good, but I'm really not a fan of those nasty colors.


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> i'm gonna see if i can SLI them


I bursted out laughing when i read this


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> i'm gonna see if i can SLI them


You can, you need to contact Cryorig for the accessories needed to upgrade the R1 to an AF41 which they usually give it for free.









Only pickup at their office though!


----------



## kckyle

ok im pissed, it seems the r1 universal was MADE for the x58 socket. i remounted the r1 in my friend's z97 today, and of course it was another huge struggle trying to get the damn screws to make contact with the plate. at one point i thought i almost snap the board cause i was pushing so hard.

but when i installed the r1 into my x58 rig...it didn't even take me 5 seconds to thing installed. it literally took NO effort. no excessive force trying to push the screws down. as soon as i place the heat sink down. the screws made contact and effortlessly screwed in.



the temp drop was massive. i saw 15c difference in intel burn test from my megahalem.


----------



## tonyptony

Wow, that's kind of unfortunate news.


----------



## kckyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonyptony*
> 
> Wow, that's kind of unfortunate news.


the z97 or the temp difference lol


----------



## tonyptony

Ha!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> ok im pissed, it seems the r1 universal was MADE for the x58 socket. i remounted the r1 in my friend's z97 today, and of course it was another huge struggle trying to get the damn screws to make contact with the plate. at one point i thought i almost snap the board cause i was pushing so hard.
> 
> but when i installed the r1 into my x58 rig...it didn't even take me 5 seconds to thing installed. it literally took NO effort. no excessive force trying to push the screws down. as soon as i place the heat sink down. the screws made contact and effortlessly screwed in.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the temp drop was massive. i saw 15c difference in intel burn test from my megahalem.


I know this is a dumb question but is it possible you had the two mounting bars upside down the first time? The outside edge down instead of up?

15c is a massive improvement! In fact it is extreme .. more than just the difference in coolers. My guess is at least 5c of the difference is because of old TIM aand / or temp of air going into cooler.


----------



## doyll

On another note, *Cryorig will be releasing new A Series Hybrid Liquid Cooling* .. A40/A40 Ultimate with 240mm radiator and A80 with 280mm radiator. Quite interesting concept of having a fan on the waterblcok/pump to cool motherboard.
Quote:


> CRYORIG's A Series Hybrid Liquid Cooling (HLC) products is designed to solve one of the major problems with Closed Loop Cooling liquid units, which is the severe lack of airflow for the CPU's surrounding components. At Computex, CRYORIG's live thermal imaging demo shows the potential impact of how HLC can benefit the system. Heat imaging shows a drastic drop of over 10° Celsius in regions of the surrounding Voltage Regulator Modules, RAM and even the GPU card can benefit from added airflow from CRYORIG's patent pending proprietary Airflow Circulator fan. In lowering the surrounding heat of these areas, systems may achieve benefits ranging from higher stability and component life span, and may even achieve better stable performance and overclocks for the CPU/RAM and GPU. The Airflow Circulator fan can be removed and attached in reverse along with adjusting your CPU water block allows users to choose which way they want the Airflow Circulator to point at, be it RAM, GPU or VRM areas. The Airflow Circulator is a 3.000 RPM PWM control enabled 70 mm fan, that intelligently adjusts it's RPM based on CPU temperature. It's variable spin rate allows it to be virtually inaudible over the other working fans in the system and radiator. There are three models in CRYORIG's initial HLC lineup: the A40, A40 Ultimate and A80. CYRORIG's A Series HLC units will be available in Summer, 2015.
> 
> *Spec:*
> *A40/A40 Ultimate*
> Supports Intel 2011(v3), 1366, 115x, AMD FM1/FM2, AM2/AM2+, AM3/AM3+.
> Cold Plate Copper Micro Fin
> Radiator Size 240x120x25mm (A40)/ 240x120x38mm (A40 Ultimate)
> Fan Dual 120x25mm 2.200 RPM PWM
> 
> *A80*
> Supports Intel 2011(v3), 1366, 115x, AMD FM1/FM2, AM2/AM2+, AM3/AM3+.
> Cold Plate Copper Micro Fin
> Radiator Size 280x120x25mm
> Fan Dual 140x25mm 1.850 RPM PWM




The hybrid fan design over CPU significantly improved the temperatures of components on motherboard.


And the *Pi Series PSU with Remote Wake Capability*
Quote:


> CRYORIG Pi is the innovative proof of concept Power Supply Unit (PSU), which will be demoed during Computex, 2015. The CRYORIG Pi combines IoT capability with a PSU to create a brand new way of managing and controlling your PC. IoT or Internet of Things is a gaining momentum in home electrical appliances, allowing control and monitoring of everything electrical within the house hold. CRYORIG's initial intention to add IoT capabilities into a PSU unit was to overcome the difficulties of configuring Wake on LAN, and Wake on WAN functions when trying to use remote desktop like applications. CRYORIG patent pending Zero Hassle Hardware Wake (ZHH Wake), directly controls the PSU and mainboard on/off signals, the IoT enable Pi PSU does not need any type of configuration other than pairing to an internet enabled WiFi signal. Wake up a remote PC to perform remote desktop functions. Remote wake your file sharing or distribution computing PC after a local power outage. Remote close your PC ahead of a thunder storm, or just simply check if you remembered to close your PC with sensitive material after leaving the home or office. The application of the IoT enabled Pi is almost limitless. From this base CRYORIG's Pi line can extend further capabilities such as fan speed control, energy usage recording and management, electric bill estimations as well as PSU health and deterioration reporting all directly to a mobile phone app. The CRYORIG Pi line of Power Supply Units is targeted for release in 2016 with wattage ranging from 600 to +1000 Watts, and 80+ Gold to Platinum certifications.
> 
> *Spec:*
> Pi 660/860/1000
> Wattage: 660/860/1000 Watts
> 80+: Gold~Platinum
> Fan: QF120 600~2.200 PWM fan
> Size: TBA
> Release: Summer 2016
> Other: IoT Wake on Remote, Close on Remote Capable
> .





http://www.cryorig.com/computex2015.php


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

I like that Cryorig are coming up with this stuff. I'm interested in the PSU, I wonder who the oem is? Also that AIO looks interesting.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> On another note, *Cryorig will be releasing new A Series Hybrid Liquid Cooling* .. A40/A40 Ultimate with 240mm radiator and A80 with 280mm radiator. Quite interesting concept of having a fan on the waterblcok/pump to cool motherboard.


As much as I can't blame Cryorig for trying to cash in on people's ignorance (why not, everyone else does it)......the world needs another Asetek with different fans like it needs another outbreak of ebola.

And why put a fan on the pump? Any CLC user will tell you that they open up the case for airflow and make your components run much cooler.....and that all of your board sensors are wrong of they tell you differently.


----------



## Farmer Boe

I'm looking forward to see how Cryorig does with the newly announced PSU series. I hope that release date is a typo! Summer 2016 is a ways off.


----------



## kckyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I know this is a dumb question but is it possible you had the two mounting bars upside down the first time? The outside edge down instead of up?
> 
> 15c is a massive improvement! In fact it is extreme .. more than just the difference in coolers. My guess is at least 5c of the difference is because of old TIM aand / or temp of air going into cooler.


your suggestion initially ignite my train of thought, but then i remember the mounting bars have stickers on them, and i had the sticker side facing up when i peel them.

yes 15c is a bit dramatic, then again it has a bit more chilly in my room around 24c i think. but thn as the temp raise up due to all the stress testing, i ran it again at ambient 29c case temp, and it was stil 83c vs 96c. and i actually handicapped the r1 a bit, since i turned down all my intake fans since they were really loud, so the result is

r1 70 percent fan speed + no intake fans = 83c on the hottest core

megahalem 100 percent fan speed + 3 intake fans = 96c

ambient temp has a delta of 2-3c


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe*
> 
> I'm looking forward to see how Cryorig does with the newly announced PSU series. I hope that release date is a typo! Summer 2016 is a ways off.


Seeing how IoT is just now getting the background set up, summer 2016 seems like an optimistic deadline. On the other hand, just setting up a local wifi access for the PSU and control via a single app isn't really IoT and can be done now itself.


----------



## Farmer Boe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Seeing how IoT is just now getting the background set up, summer 2016 seems like an optimistic deadline. On the other hand, just setting up a local wifi access for the PSU and control via a single app isn't really IoT and can be done now itself.


Yeah I'm not too interested in the IoT aspect but more looking forward to see how Cryorig specs a PSU and what OEM they'll use. I've only seen good things with their fans and heatsinks for such a new company and hope the trend continues as they branch out to other areas. We've seen many high profile companies drop the ball when they start branching out with quality and designs that are sub par for their reputation.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> As much as I can't blame Cryorig for trying to cash in on people's ignorance (why not, everyone else does it)......the world needs another Asetek with different fans like it needs another outbreak of ebola.
> 
> And why put a fan on the pump? Any CLC user will tell you that they open up the case for airflow and make your components run much cooler.....and that all of your board sensors are wrong of they tell you differently.


I think another Asetek is worse than ebola.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> your suggestion initially ignite my train of thought, but then i remember the mounting bars have stickers on them, and i had the sticker side facing up when i peel them.
> 
> yes 15c is a bit dramatic, then again it has a bit more chilly in my room around 24c i think. but thn as the temp raise up due to all the stress testing, i ran it again at ambient 29c case temp, and it was stil 83c vs 96c. and i actually handicapped the r1 a bit, since i turned down all my intake fans since they were really loud, so the result is
> 
> r1 70 percent fan speed + no intake fans = 83c on the hottest core
> 
> megahalem 100 percent fan speed + 3 intake fans = 96c
> 
> ambient temp has a delta of 2-3c


Thought it was worth asking about the mounting bars.

Still don't know if Megahalems TIM was bad or what cooler intake air temps were then versus now .. and don't say same case and room temps are same. Just changing fan speed on cooler often changes cooler intake air temp.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Seeing how IoT is just now getting the background set up, summer 2016 seems like an optimistic deadline. On the other hand, just setting up a local wifi access for the PSU and control via a single app isn't really IoT and can be done now itself.


Agree, it's not new tech, but having it built into PSU is a nice feature.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe*
> 
> Yeah I'm not too interested in the IoT aspect but more looking forward to see how Cryorig specs a PSU and what OEM they'll use. I've only seen good things with their fans and heatsinks for such a new company and hope the trend continues as they branch out to other areas. We've seen many high profile companies drop the ball when they start branching out with quality and designs that are sub par for their reputation.


Indeed.
And I see no reason to think Cryorig quality and customer service will change. The Cryorig crew have years of experience with other companies where quality and CS are job one. They know what's important to customers and potential customers.


----------



## kckyle

hm i haven't though much about the tim, and i did use the cp9 for the cryorig mount and mx-2 for the mega. maybe another 1-2 c difference was found from that?


----------



## VSG

CP9 is one of the better performing TIMs but definitely not easy to apply and dries out quickly. There's a reason they are bringing out 3 new TIM pastes for retail sale but CP9 won't be sold separately still.


----------



## Roaches

Still eagerly waiting details of the Z1 Universal. As for their TIM lineup, I hope they offer in bulk tube sizes for us System Builders.


----------



## Kutalion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> CP9 is one of the better performing TIMs but definitely not easy to apply and dries out quickly. There's a reason they are bringing out 3 new TIM pastes for retail sale but CP9 won't be sold separately still.


Did anybody do a test on it? I tried MX-4 as well as CP9 but didnt find any temp differences. Im worried a bit by what you say it dries out quickly, how quickly should i reapply it?


----------



## kckyle

hm i did notice the cp9 being a bit more cakey than my mx-2. thn again i use rice size method so i hope it doesn't effect me as much. but so far temp looks pretty good.


----------



## VSG

It does dry out, but under load it gets pasty again. They don't sell CP9 separately because you need some proper pressure to get it to spread out well, such as under their heatsinks. CPU blocks and GPU coolers/blocks don't apply uniform lateral pressure to that magnitude.


----------



## doyll

What geggeg said. Many of the best TIMs are quite thick and require more pressure or longer burn-in times. Might have something to do with the amount of metal in them. More metal to metal means better heat transfer.

@geggeg
Is it drying out or just a firm / stiff past that softens when heated?

FYI:
I often heat stiff paste in a cup of hot water to make it softer / more liquid and easier to apply / seat.


----------



## VSG

It dries and cracks if spread out and no heat load is applied. Not a typical situation but there it is.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It dries and cracks if spread out and no heat load is applied. Not a typical situation but there it is.


Than is it same to assume this evaporation condenses the TIM for even better heat transfer? As in a higher density of metal in TIM transferring heat better? .. and that this 'drying out' is not an issue when components are mounted properly? I ask this because I have seen some TIM that dries out and does not perform as it should after 6 months or a year.


----------



## kckyle

it seems i kinda figured out why it was such pain in the behind for the z97 than my x58, the metal plate on the z97 socket is a tad thicker than the ones on my ud7. that ultimately made the handle bar lower than it suppose to be. cryorig can easily solve this by using longer screws on the heatsink or less stiff springs. for now im happy, but if i ever upgrade to a skylake or a z97, lets just say im not really looking forward to that day lol


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Than is it same to assume this evaporation condenses the TIM for even better heat transfer? As in a higher density of metal in TIM transferring heat better? .. and that this 'drying out' is not an issue when components are mounted properly? I ask this because I have seen some TIM that dries out and does not perform as it should after 6 months or a year.


Yeah the drying out is a non-issue when mounted properly, which is almost always the case with proper cooler mounting here. I do not know about long term effects, although my C1 with CP9 is still performing as new and it has been over a month now of near non-stop activity.


----------



## tonyptony

The E8400 under the Scythe Mugen 2 on my old system is only now showing a 1-2 rise in temp after almost 6 years of virtually 24/7 operation. I used ic7 Diamond if it makes any difference but I think a lot of it was careful application and mounting.

Sorry for going slightly OT.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah the drying out is a non-issue when mounted properly, which is almost always the case with proper cooler mounting here. I do not know about long term effects, although my C1 with CP9 is still performing as new and it has been over a month now of near non-stop activity.


My original R1 Ultimate from before release date is on stock TIM and no changes in temp .. and it's been mounted well over a 19 months of operation. That said it is on pretty much 24/7 and runs between 25c and 55c, so probably not much pumpout going on.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonyptony*
> 
> The E8400 under the Scythe Mugen 2 on my old system is only now showing a 1-2 rise in temp after almost 6 years of virtually 24/7 operation. I used ic7 Diamond if it makes any difference but I think a lot of it was careful application and mounting.
> 
> Sorry for going slightly OT.


I would venture to guess the 1-2c difference is more to do with dirt / film buildup on the cooler fins than TIM.
Good TIM application and seating is the key.









I don't put much work into applying TM. I usually clean CPU and Cooler base, wipe on a little TIM and 'polish' it off .. like waxing a car, than apply a rice size dob in middle of CPU and install cooler.
Oh! and I always check and make cooler placement before applying TIM so cooler has no or very little movement while being installed! This is very important! Maybe a little wiggle to push it onto CPU, *but never pick it up even the slightest bit.*


----------



## majnu

You guys seen the Cryorig AIO or as they call it HLC hybrid liquid cooling A series at Computex?

http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2015/06/03/cryorig-a-series-pi-psus/1

Edit - Also R1 cooler covers as we all requested, yay!

The new Z1 looks kinda funky too

http://www.techpowerup.com/212918/cryorig-teases-its-computex-2015-lineup.html


----------



## kckyle

oh man the r1 is completely sold out, not even newegg 3rd party store has any left.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> You guys seen the Cryorig AIO or as they call it HLC hybrid liquid cooling A series at Computex?
> http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2015/06/03/cryorig-a-series-pi-psus/1
> Edit - Also R1 cooler covers as we all requested, yay!
> The new Z1 looks kinda funky too
> http://www.techpowerup.com/212918/cryorig-teases-its-computex-2015-lineup.html


If you even skimmed this thread, you would know we've already seen the press releases.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> oh man the r1 is completely sold out, not even newegg 3rd party store has any left.


I'm one of the lucky few that got one from newegg then lol If newegg decides not to sell them anymore over here in the U.S we're screwed.


----------



## kckyle

i managed to get two r1 universal so i can't complain, but my friend saw my rig and he was asking where can he get one.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Lots of my friends want an r1, , , one even offered me his h100 and some money on top of it and I was like, NOPE!


----------



## kckyle

i would not trade a r1 for a h100. not even if he adds money lol.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

R1 just works, and is fairly quiet too. Plus it has the looks too. I'd never swap my R1 for an h100!!


----------



## doyll

Only AIO I would trade my R1 for is a Swiftech H240-X or H280-X.
But I have two R1s, so even if I traded I'd still have one.


----------



## Dyaems

Looks like a Seasonic is the OEM for the Cryorig PSU? The case for the PSU resembles like an X/P series


----------



## Cysquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Looks like a Seasonic is the OEM for the Cryorig PSU? The case for the PSU resembles like an X/P series


I was thinking the same thing


----------



## WhiteWulfe

The hybrid aio's are rather interesting looking. Curious about pricing, not to mentionif they'll be directly available in Canada. Hopefully they use copper core radiators too.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If you even skimmed this thread, you would know we've already seen the press releases.


Oh you already posted it, well in my defence this thread has exploded since my last post. Great news though, I will probably buy the HLC to try out and get a nice shroud for my R1, I hope they are reasonable in price and offer multiple colour sets.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> The hybrid aio's are rather interesting looking. Curious about pricing, not to mentionif they'll be directly available in Canada. Hopefully they use copper core radiators too.


I wouldn't get your hopes up. The mounting kit certainly appears to be an Asetek....and if it is going to be available in the US, you can clearly assume that it is going to be an Asetek. My expectation is the same 240mm Asetek we see with ten different brand names, only with Cryorig fans and logo, and an extra fan popped on top of the pump to cool your RAM or VRM.


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cysquatch*
> 
> I was thinking the same thing


Its most likely a Seasonic as its OEM. I saw their wattages at the Computex thread - 660w 860w 1000w


----------



## kckyle

changed my setup to dual XF 140mm

dropped temp by a good 2-3 c


----------



## doyll

That's the same as I found when testing them. 2-3c better cooling from the added airflow of thicker XF140 fan.


----------



## Carmaine

Did anyone see their new AF41 cooler at Computex?









http://www.cryorig.com/news.php?id=46

_"The AF41 in it's full glory. A 7 heatpipe, 5 fan, 4 tower goliath! Fits to both Intel/AMD sockets but will break your wallet and mainboard."_


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carmaine*
> 
> Did anyone see their new AF41 cooler at Computex?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.cryorig.com/news.php?id=46
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> _"The AF41 in it's full glory. A 7 heatpipe, 5 fan, 4 tower goliath! Fits to both Intel/AMD sockets but will break your wallet and mainboard."_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


I ordered mine a year ago April 1st. Have to cut out the back of my case to get it in.


----------



## Dyaems

I have my AF41 being shipped through the use of Air Fort One that I bought... Apparently the AFO is somewhere along the Bermuda Triangle so I'm not sure if it will ever come to my place...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> I have my AF41 being shipped through the use of Air Fort One that I bought... Apparently the AFO is somewhere along the Bermuda Triangle so I'm not sure if it will ever come to my place...


All of he Air Fort Ones' are in a container in that triangle.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I ordered mine a year ago April 1st. Have to cut out the back of my case to get it in.


Almost bit on that one. But, only 7 heatpipes and 5 fans?! Close to the ideal, but waiting for the revision with the integrated 5960X - a dedicated heatpipe for each core with a dedicated fan for each heatpipe.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Omg, they actually made a physical one? Lawwwl


----------



## MicroCat

Actually I like this concept and it would be a huge forum timesaver for doyll...

With a proper case with a proper horizontal motherboard mounting and the structural steel/concrete composite, it would obliterate the endless case airflow issues - 1st fan in the array is the case intake and the last fan is the exhaust. How cool is that? No more ambient vs intake temp questions. No more restrictive grilles. Just super clean front-to-back inner-cooler airflow.

This starving artist render shows the idea...


----------



## kckyle

my friend ask where he can get a r1 ultimate or universal, anyone knows?


----------



## Kenpachi7144

I'm here to change the topic lol. . . Today I decided to find out how much voltage it took for my i5 4670k to stay stable at 4.6ghz. . . Well I only got good news (sort of) to report. 4.6ghz stable with 1.31v, , , Can I run 1.31v daily without damaging the cpu?? What really impressed me was the performance of the R1 Universal. . . the highest temperature was 74c while stress testing with prime 95. . . for comparison sake back while I still had the 212 evo hooked up it would reach 80-85c with 1.26v lol now imagine with 1.31v. Glad I got an R1 when they were available in the U.S.


----------



## lcyinyin

Who has setup R1 ultimate with ASUS Sabertooth X99？
the 1st PCI-E can use?
if i use RAM X 8 , it is ok?
thank you


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lcyinyin*
> 
> Who has setup R1 ultimate with ASUS Sabertooth X99？
> the 1st PCI-E can use?
> if i use RAM X 8 , it is ok?
> thank you


Sabertooth X99 has 78mm center CPU toward PCIe socket and 55mm toward RAM sockets.

Best way to find out is make the Cryorig origami compatibility tester for R1 Ultimate and check for yourself.



http://www.cryorig.com/r1-ultimate.php


----------



## CrazyElf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carmaine*
> 
> Did anyone see their new AF41 cooler at Computex?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.cryorig.com/news.php?id=46
> 
> _"The AF41 in it's full glory. A 7 heatpipe, 5 fan, 4 tower goliath! Fits to both Intel/AMD sockets but will break your wallet and mainboard."_


So they made a production variant? Longer boards like my MSI Z87 might be able to fit it though:



Board dimensions: 34.5cm(L) x 26.4cm(W). Note the space between the CPU socket and the back of the motherboard. That's from the 32x IR3550 (although I wish MSI used better inductors).

Likewise, the bigger HEDT platforms should have enough room as well (because there's 4 RAM slots in the rear). They need it the most (up to 8 cores compared to 4 cores), so double the wattage of heat needing to be dissipated at a given clockspeed and voltage.

Back in 2014, they did the same as a preview.






Hmm ... the big issue I could see is that it would obstruct RAM. If you removed the fifth rear fan, it might actually fit a standard E-ATX or XL ATX sized board. You would want to use something like fishing pole cable to brace it against the case though.

Actually, hypothetically, I've wondered how much better it would cool than a 3 fan R1 Ultimate? The sheer surface area means there's a lot of potential, although the rear 2 towers will be receiving hot air. Even so, you might get something approaching a mid-range water cooling setup - that and this thing has the advantage of keeping the VRMs cool as well.

@Cryorig, if you're reading this (and I know there is a rep reading this), as I said, now that I know you've made one model for real, I'd love to see it put it on sale as a "limited edition" - much like the Thermalright True Copper from a few years back.

Also, ideally I would like to see a vendor here in Canada sell Cryorig products in the future. I had to drive to the US to get my R1 Ultimate - ideal naturally would be for us Canadians to be able to buy it in Canada.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyElf*
> 
> So they made a production variant? Longer boards like my MSI Z87 might be able to fit it though:
> 
> Hmm ... the big issue I could see is that it would obstruct RAM. If you removed the fifth rear fan, it might actually fit a standard E-ATX or XL ATX sized board. You would want to use something like fishing pole cable to brace it against the case though.
> 
> Actually, hypothetically, I've wondered how much better it would cool than a 3 fan R1 Ultimate? The sheer surface area means there's a lot of potential, although the rear 2 towers will be receiving hot air. Even so, you might get something approaching a mid-range water cooling setup - that and this thing has the advantage of keeping the VRMs cool as well.
> 
> @Cryorig, if you're reading this (and I know there is a rep reading this), as I said, now that I know you've made one model for real, I'd love to see it put it on sale as a "limited edition" - much like the Thermalright True Copper from a few years back.
> 
> Also, ideally I would like to see a vendor here in Canada sell Cryorig products in the future. I had to drive to the US to get my R1 Ultimate - ideal naturally would be for us Canadians to be able to buy it in Canada.


It was an April 1st concept that I doubt will ever be functional.
But it is fun to look at and contemplate.









Would look like this on your board.


----------



## CrazyElf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> It was an April 1st concept that I doubt will ever be functional.
> But it is fun to look at and contemplate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would look like this on your board.


Take out the fifth fan and you'll have about 0.5-0.8cm of overhang, which might be viable as many cases recess their IO panel inward a bit.



It would bump up against the edge of the case though and you'd have to remove the exhaust fan of course. The good news is that a good portion of the hot air will go out the rear exhaust port though. Another solution may be to get one of those cases where the motherboard is facing upwards.

I suppose that unless they ever actually release this though, it's all hypothetical as you note.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> my friend ask where he can get a r1 ultimate or universal, anyone knows?


Normally you can buy it at Newegg, but it looks like they are sold out. I think they were having a hard time keeping up with demand.

There's still one at eBay, but it's very expensive. If you cannot find it anywhere, you may want to look into the Noctua D15 though as it's similar in performance.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyElf*
> 
> Take out the fifth fan and you'll have about 0.5-0.8cm of overhang, which might be viable as many cases recess their IO panel inward a bit.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would bump up against the edge of the case though and you'd have to remove the exhaust fan of course. The good news is that a good portion of the hot air will go out the rear exhaust port though. Another solution may be to get one of those cases where the motherboard is facing upwards.
> 
> I suppose that unless they ever actually release this though, it's all hypothetical as you note.


I have to wonder if the greatly increased heatpipe length for the extra fin packs will even work. Will the wicking be able to draw the liquid back? Will vapor even reach the extra fin packs before it condenses?

But on with the hypothetical. This is it fitted in Define R2


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have to wonder if the greatly increased heatpipe length for the extra fin packs will even work. Will the wicking be able to draw the liquid back? Will vapor even reach the extra fin packs before it condenses?


Probably not. But, that's not the point. The point is extended e-peen overkill.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> But on with the hypothetical. This is it fitted in Define R2


In that case, it needs more fin stacks and fans. UNLESS...the PA41 is meant for the ITX overkill market.


----------



## CrazyElf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have to wonder if the greatly increased heatpipe length for the extra fin packs will even work. Will the wicking be able to draw the liquid back? Will vapor even reach the extra fin packs before it condenses?


That I am not sure of.

Maybe a heatpipe design like this would have worked best:


On the other hand, it might reach just fine - long GPUs these days have heatsinks that do reach.

We will not know unless Cryorig were to release a couple of samples though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> But on with the hypothetical. This is it fitted in Define R2


You know how they have the R1 Universal "moved back" a bit compared to the Ultimate so that it does not interfere with tall RAM heatsinks? Maybe for the AF41, they should move it forward 0.5-0.7 cm so that the back does not hit the case. There's enough room in the front of most cases (they have to be long nowadays to allow for the big GPUs, which can be as much as 35cm long now).

Then the fifth fan will be mounted on the outside of the case (use the screw holes, but rather than mount it in the case, mount it out of the case - you can put a fan grille on the other side as well).

As I said, you'd want fishing rod cables to support the cooler against the case.

I'm thinking something like what Asus has for its Maximus Formula may be good as well - a motherboard backplate:



That should help support the mass of the CPU cooler (about 3kg with fans).


----------



## doyll

@CrazyElf
350m to pipe length compard to 700-800+mm in AF41

Everest was problematic for RAM clearance with pipes over them to reach 1st & 3rd fin packs.

Solution is simple. All we need an an anti-gravity device. That would solve both length and weight problems.


----------



## Dyaems

A better simple solution is to leave the AF41 as it is-- an April Fool's joke that did materialize for the laughs I guess


----------



## JackCY

H7 seems nice, I wonder how it does cool so well with half the usual count of heatpipes. Surprising.


----------



## Noobie2this

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lcyinyin*
> 
> Who has setup R1 ultimate with ASUS Sabertooth X99？
> the 1st PCI-E can use?
> if i use RAM X 8 , it is ok?
> thank you


I have the x99 Sabertooth and Cryorig R1 Ultimate using G Skill 3200c16 memory. All fits fine including the gtx970 in the first slot. My original conservative overclock on the 5820k was 4.4ghz at 1.21 volts and the stress tests barely got into the 60's with that low voltage. I use the 3 fan version also. Swapping out cpu's now to the 5960x, so we will see how this goes. I hope that helps.


----------



## lcyinyin

thx bro, could you mind take a picture to me? if i install Ram 8GB X8, it is ok?


----------



## lcyinyin

thx bro, if i have not see you reply, i will buy a Dark rock pro 3 already. haha. thank you very much


----------



## Noobie2this

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lcyinyin*
> 
> thx bro, if i have not see you reply, i will buy a Dark rock pro 3 already. haha. thank you very much


I am out of town for about 2-3 weeks and will not be able to take a picture till I arrive home.


----------



## lcyinyin

Thx bro, have a nice trip.


----------



## Offender_Mullet

New H7 owner here. First Cryorig product and all I can say is *wow!* Beautiful build quality.









Haven't installed it yet (going through other rig upgrade options) but this looks like a Hyper 212 Evo killer from what I've read.


----------



## doyll

H7 is a great little cooler, definitely a 212 killer.
212 was good in it's day, but there were better then and even more so now.


----------



## Dyaems

How do you guys clean the fins of Cryorig products? Just blow (compressed) air on it?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> How do you guys clean the fins of Cryorig products? Just blow (compressed) air on it?


Yes, that is it.


----------



## doyll

Best is to keep them clean with filtered air.









After a year or two I usually give any air cooler a good wash to remove any film that may have accumulated on the fins. It usually give at least a couple degrees improvement.


----------



## Dyaems

So how do one "washes" their heatsinks? I'm guessing there are specific instructions for that? Don't the fins oxidize/corrode when washed with water? Similar to this?

I could be wrong though, since I just clean the fins with an paint brush/blower combo


----------



## ruffhi

I would assume that the first step is to take it off the mobo before washing.


----------



## Dyaems

nah, first step is to remove the side panel of the case if the computer is already shut off.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> H7 is a great little cooler, definitely a 212 killer.
> 212 was good in it's day, but there were better then and even more so now.


Which ones?
So far it has been pretty difficult to find a cooler that would have similar performance/price ratio in that or higher performance category.
Sure the popularity raised it's price and made other options a little more sensible but still tough to beat 212 evo in perf/price.

Finally H7 seems to have done it, better performance and acoustics for a price only a little higher than 212 evo.
It sure doesn't match TR macho in performance and the step to it in price is similar but the performance gain isn't as big as H7 has over 212.

---

The first step is to submerge it in mineral oil.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Which ones?
> So far it has been pretty difficult to find a cooler that would have similar performance/price ratio in that or higher performance category.
> Sure the popularity raised it's price and made other options a little more sensible but still tough to beat 212 evo in perf/price.
> 
> Finally H7 seems to have done it, better performance and acoustics for a price only a little higher than 212 evo.
> It sure doesn't match TR macho in performance and the step to it in price is similar but the performance gain isn't as big as H7 has over 212.
> 
> ---
> 
> The first step is to submerge it in mineral oil.


The be quiet! Pure Rock also outperforms the 212 EVO with less noise at the same price.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> nah, first step is to remove the side panel of the case if the computer is already shut off.


People run with side panels on? Oh wait, I fold and bench, disregard my comment


----------



## Kutalion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Which ones?
> So far it has been pretty difficult to find a cooler that would have similar performance/price ratio in that or higher performance category.
> Sure the popularity raised it's price and made other options a little more sensible but still tough to beat 212 evo in perf/price.
> 
> Finally H7 seems to have done it, better performance and acoustics for a price only a little higher than 212 evo.
> It sure doesn't match TR macho in performance and the step to it in price is similar but the performance gain isn't as big as H7 has over 212.
> 
> ---
> 
> The first step is to submerge it in mineral oil.


LC power LC-CC-120 is better then EVO, and a lot cheaper.


----------



## maddangerous

I haven't all the time to read through all of this thread, but is anyone running something like a H5, H7, or a C1 on a i7-4790K? If so, stock or OC? Temps?


----------



## ILLmatik94

Man, when will the new customod covers be available for the R1? My wallet is ready


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ILLmatik94*
> 
> Man, when will the new customod covers be available for the R1? My wallet is ready


I'll try and find out when they will be released. And the new Z1, C7 & M9 coolers too.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ILLmatik94*
> 
> Man, when will the new customod covers be available for the R1? My wallet is ready


It's here, at least for the USA.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=cryorig&N=-1&isNodeId=1

For people new to the R1 series, note that you can get a R1 + CUSTOMOD cover for a discount there.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Any word on when they'll also offer it for sale in Canada?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> It's here, at least for the USA.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=cryorig&N=-1&isNodeId=1
> 
> For people new to the R1 series, note that you can get a R1 + CUSTOMOD cover for a discount there.


Thanks Steve.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> It's here, at least for the USA.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=cryorig&N=-1&isNodeId=1
> 
> For people new to the R1 series, note that you can get a R1 + CUSTOMOD cover for a discount there.


Selling directly on Newegg was a very good idea.


----------



## pochiko

Just wonder that the white cover from customod and the one which come with R1 Universal are the same?


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Installed it earlier today. I also got a 2nd one of their 'Balance' fans to do push-pull config.

My only 2 cons are:
*1.)* Their Cryo-Paste CP9 doesn't spread very easy. That actually took longer to do than the entire install.








*2.)* The fan which is blowing towards the rear of the case needs to be moved up slightly on the H7's heatsink, otherwise it comes in contact with my motherboard's heatsink. It just barely creeps over the top of its heatsink now, so nothing drastic. That's due to the fact of its heatpipes on the bottom are bent away from the ram, thus making less clearance space on the other side.

I have to move my rear case fan. No need to have it there with the 2nd Cryorig fan that close to it. Will take pics later.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Sorry if I'm a bit late to the topic but I think that the customod is a ripoff($12 for a different color? fk that), , , why not offer the coolers in different colors from the start or include 3 different colors like corsair does with their fans. Don't start telling me abut the price of manufacturing them because we all know those things don't even cost $0.30 to produce over in china. . . My R1 shall remain white, if I want a different color I'll just buy a can of plati dip for $10 and make all my hardware color match.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> Sorry if I'm a bit late to the topic but I think that the customod is a ripoff($12 for a different color? fk that), , , why not offer the coolers in different colors from the start or include 3 different colors like corsair does with their fans. Don't start telling me abut the price of manufacturing them because we all know those things don't even cost $0.30 to produce over in china. . . My R1 shall remain white, if I want a different color I'll just buy a can of plati dip for $10 and make all my hardware color match.


The stock shrouds are 6.99. The custom painted ones are $11.99.
But you can spend that same $11.99 for paint and more for primer, sand paper, etc. and paint them yourself if that's what you want to do.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The stock shrouds are 6.99. The custom painted ones are $11.99.
> But you can spend that same $11.99 for paint and more for primer, sand paper, etc. and paint them yourself if that's what you want to do.


With plasti dip there is no need for primer, sand paper. The only prepping needed is having a clean surface, if later i want to change the color again I can just peel it off. Plus a can of duplicolor plati dip is $10 in autozone and I can plati dip my GPUs/R1/ and whatever else I want. To each his own.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> With plasti dip there is no need for primer, sand paper. The only prepping needed is having a clean surface, if later i want to change the color again I can just peel it off. Plus a can of duplicolor plati dip is $10 in autozone and I can plati dip my GPUs/R1/ and whatever else I want. To each his own.


Indeed.








If the custom color shrouds sell well, I suspect the price will come down.


----------



## SuspiciousGuy

Hello, I just received my H5A or H5 Universal from newegg for my x99 MSI sli plus board and just wanted to make sure that I am doing everything correct since this is my first pc I am building. The board doesn't need any a backplate since its a 2011-3 model. I know i have the correct lga2011 screws since one side is shorter than the other. Clarification on this would be much appreciated


----------



## VSG

What is it that you need confirmation on? Everything you said is right.


----------



## SuspiciousGuy

oh ok thanks, sorry I guess i'm a little paranoid


----------



## doyll

It's not paranoia at all. It is only covering all your based and being sure you do it correctly.


----------



## Cubelia

A little bit off topic,but check this out:
Meet the the retail version of CRYORIG CYRO-PASTE thermal compound!

This one is CP5.
There are others such as CP7,CP9(included in their coolers.) and CP15.



It comes with a custom measured spreader,and very easy to apply.





Performance is quite decent,I would say on par with Arctic Cooling MX-2.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cubelia*
> 
> A little bit off topic,but check this out:
> Meet the the retail version of CRYORIG CYRO-PASTE thermal compound!
> 
> This one is CP5.
> There are others such as CP7,CP9(included in their coolers.) and CP15.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with a custom measured spreader,and very easy to apply.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Performance is quite decent,I would say on par with Arctic Cooling MX-2.


Not at all off topic.

Generally the higher the number, the higher the solid percentage, better the performance, the thicker .. and often harder it is to apply and seat. That said, even the CP15 isn't hard to work with.

Edited based on geggeg's 1st had experience of these.


----------



## VSG

That what I also thought but CP-9 doesn't follow the trend, it is one of hardest to apply out of those 4 and performs one of the best also it seems.


----------



## doyll

Really?!
I stand corrected.








I believe you. I've only had 7 & 9 .. while you have used them all.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Really?!
> I stand corrected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe you. I've only had 7 & 9 .. while you have used them all.


Actually you have more experience than me here. I have personally only used 9. That info above was straight from the horse... errr, Steve


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Actually you have more experience than me here. I have personally only used 9. That info above was straight from the horse... errr, Steve


This just in, the secret to Steve's success is his work horse attitude of never giving up! ...And apparently posessing the sheer power and determination of one too!









Must be this cooler with 10kg of dry ice making me all giddy, I swear.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Not at all off topic.
> 
> Generally the higher the number, the higher the solid percentage, better the performance, the thicker .. and often harder it is to apply and seat. That said, even the CP15 isn't hard to work with.
> 
> Edited based on geggeg's 1st had experience of these.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That what I also thought but CP-9 doesn't follow the trend, it is one of hardest to apply out of those 4 and performs one of the best also it seems.


Cryorig number designations are always with the lowest number having the best performance, and that rolls over to the paste - with 5 being the current top of the performance line, followed by 7, 9 , 15. (See R1, H5, H7 in coolers, also).

I haven't used them excepting the 9, but the Cryorig site states that the 5 is the most difficult to spread.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Cryorig number designations are always with the lowest number having the best performance, and that rolls over to the paste - with 5 being the current top of the performance line, followed by 7, 9 , 15. (See R1, H5, H7 in coolers, also).
> 
> I haven't used them excepting the 9, but the Cryorig site states that the 5 is the most difficult to spread.


Note that 9 isn't in that list, and isn't sold separately either.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Cryorig number designations are always with the lowest number having the best performance, and that rolls over to the paste - with 5 being the current top of the performance line, followed by 7, 9 , 15. (See R1, H5, H7 in coolers, also).
> 
> I haven't used them excepting the 9, but the Cryorig site states that the 5 is the most difficult to spread.


:doh:Maybe I'm dyslexic. The minute I read your post I started banging my head against the wall.. .


----------



## jarheadleeds

anyone here with an i5 4690k tell me your temps please?

idle mines in the low 30s when my old i7 4790 would be mid 20s (its hotter now though due to summer)

at stock, prime95 26.6 gives me around 52c, [email protected] it gives me between 68-72, are those good temps?.


----------



## Kutalion

My 4690k idles at 40 degrees, 1.18v 4.6ghz linx hits low 90's. But its rather hot here, ambient is around 28-30 degrees.
Cryorig R1 ultimate is the cooler.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> My 4690k idles at 40 degrees, 1.18v 4.6ghz linx hits low 90's. But its rather hot here, ambient is around 28-30 degrees.
> Cryorig R1 ultimate is the cooler.


I think there might be something wrong with your R1 ultimate. . . I've been feeding my 4670k 1.30v for 4.6ghz and my max temp is 78c using the r1 universal. btw, ambien temp for me is 26c. At 1.20v my hyper212 evo performed MUCH better(~70c max) than your r1.


----------



## jarheadleeds

Yeah you may wanna delid that cpu, mines at 4.5ghz stable max of 67c room temp like 21c, does anyone know if the screws on the r1 can be replaced? One of thems messed up from me tightening it too much and it looks like they can't be removed.


----------



## Kutalion

Alas i probably got a chip that has pretty thick glue on the IHS, so the IHS is further from the die resulting in that kind of temp.
I was planning on delidding it as soon as i see Skylake's OC potential.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarheadleeds*
> 
> Yeah you may wanna delid that cpu, mines at 4.5ghz stable max of 67c room temp like 21c, does anyone know if the screws on the r1 can be replaced? One of thems messed up from me tightening it too much and it looks like they can't be removed.


Register your product and contact customer support. The screw alone can't be replaced, but they can send you a new retaining bracket.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarheadleeds*
> 
> anyone here with an i5 4690k tell me your temps please?
> 
> idle mines in the low 30s when my old i7 4790 would be mid 20s (its hotter now though due to summer)
> 
> at stock, prime95 26.6 gives me around 52c, [email protected] it gives me between 68-72, are those good temps?.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> My 4690k idles at 40 degrees, 1.18v 4.6ghz linx hits low 90's. But its rather hot here, ambient is around 28-30 degrees.
> Cryorig R1 ultimate is the cooler.


I rather doubt the cooler is defective. More likely the install or airflow is at fault.
Are you sure you have a good TIM seat?
Is the cooler intake getting cool air? .. Or is the airflow from room to cooler being contaminated with heated air, and thus making system run hotter.


----------



## jarheadleeds

Yeah cryorig said they're sending me some new parts







.


----------



## Kutalion

@Doyll.

Its high ambient, of almost 30 degrees. As far as airflow i doubt i could make it any better than this:



I'm pretty sure the paste was put in good quantity but not 100% sure about the spread coz i had some issues mounting it. (screw not being directly under the space between two towers but rather a bit under the 1st tower. So i did move it a bit until i managed to seat it well, could be due to that. I've used CP paste, but i got MX4 on hand if you think it would improve results.


----------



## doyll

Case airflow look pretty good. I would try removing unused PCI-e slot covers from the back, raising case up on some 30-40mm blocks, and unplugging the top fan. Top fan is pulling air that is coming in the front and also up from GPU .. and this may be mixing heated GPU exhaust into the CPU cooler intake. The more the airflow is front to back the better because this move the heated exhaust from GPU back and out .. away from CPU cooler intake rather than up toward it. "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig has more about it.

Generally speaking, less paste is better than more.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22335323


----------



## miklkit

Does that rear case exhaust fan move at least as much air as the Cryorig fans? If not, then it is a restriction.


----------



## jarheadleeds

anyone tried any better fans on the r1 ultimate, something like the noctua nf-a14? if so whats the temp diff like compared to stock fans.


----------



## doyll

I'm running TY-147A fans on my R1 Universal. NF-A14 is just a more expensive and uglier version.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarheadleeds*
> 
> anyone tried any better fans on the r1 ultimate, something like the noctua nf-a14? if so whats the temp diff like compared to stock fans.


Out of curiosity, on what are you basing your statement that the NF-A14 is a better fan than the Cryorig XF? Have you seen a concrete comparison, or is it simply supposition by reputation? Just really curious, I see a rash of "must....change.....fans" (I always hear it in a zombie voice in my head now) posts these days, and it usually ends in people downgrading because they immediately assume different must be better. Don't underestimate the fans that come with top tier coolers.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm running TY-147A fans on my R1 Universal. NF-A14 is just a more expensive and uglier version.


what was the difference in temperature between the stock fans on the r1 vs the ty-147a fans?


----------



## doyll

TY-147| is quieter and 2-3c cooler in normal use. I have not done any serious testing on this system as it is not overclocked. Keep in mind the Universal has the thin 13mm fan on the front.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> TY-147| is quieter and 2-3c cooler in normal use. I have not done any serious testing on this system as it is not overclocked. Keep in mind the Universal has the thin 13mm fan on the front.


So, essentially very similar to an R1 Ultimate?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> So, essentially very similar to an R1 Ultimate?


I need to put it on test system sometime and see, but I think it will be a little cooler. I think the TY-147A moves a little more air, so maybe 2-3 better ?? No big differences. It's one of big dogs, and all of the big dog perform so close together it doesn't really matter.


----------



## kckyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> So, essentially very similar to an R1 Ultimate?


i replaced my front thin fan with the thick fan, and it dropped temp by 2-3c.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> i replaced my front thin fan with the thick fan, and it dropped temp by 2-3c.


Exactly what I was saying.


----------



## draterrojam

Hey guys, looking to pick up a cryorig for my set up and was wondering which one to get. The ultimate or the universal? The seem to be somewhat the same but the universal has a slim fan. Am I missing something? Any help would be awesome.


----------



## kckyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *draterrojam*
> 
> Hey guys, looking to pick up a cryorig for my set up and was wondering which one to get. The ultimate or the universal? The seem to be somewhat the same but the universal has a slim fan. Am I missing something? Any help would be awesome.


uni is a bit more pushed back so its more compatible with most mobo's ram. and has a slim fan, other than that they are identical.


----------



## Kutalion

Juding by coolingtechnique videos on youtube, TY-147A is considerably quieter and moves more air under more pressure than the XF fans which they also tested.
I just cant make myself change these awesome looking fans









@miklkit
Nope, fan on exhaust moves less air but i figure by the time air moves through the second heatsink tower, its not nearly as much as if it was unrestricted, so this fan should be able to move that much easily.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *draterrojam*
> 
> Hey guys, looking to pick up a cryorig for my set up and was wondering which one to get. The ultimate or the universal? The seem to be somewhat the same but the universal has a slim fan. Am I missing something? Any help would be awesome.


Here is a drawing showing the differences. Both have same cooling ability with same fans, but Universal has thinner 13mm fan for better RAM clearance .. meaning slightly less airflow .. and slightly less cooling. It comes with an extra set of 25mm fan clips.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Juding by coolingtechnique videos on youtube, TY-147A is considerably quieter and moves more air under more pressure than the XF fans which they also tested.
> I just cant make myself change these awesome looking fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I think this looks fantastic.


----------



## Kutalion

Looks good, but I must say Cryorig fans are still prettier







Just something about that frame and blades that looks amazing. Might be just me tho.


----------



## jarheadleeds

I might get a 3rd fan for my r1







, Atm I have 2 intake fans that do 67cfm but only spin at 1000rpm and then one sp120 exhaust which only does 37cfm but spin at 1450rpm, if I put my hand Infront of the intake fans I can't even feel any air tbh but from the sp120 loads, sp120s are Deffo great fans for exhaust. I may even get some noctua fans and see how they perform on the r1.

And cryorig are nice as they're sending me a new retention bracket. I kinda tightened one screw to much and the screw wont tighten as much because it's dethreaded.


----------



## doyll

The Cryorig fans are pretty .. and perform well too.


----------



## celebrevida

I am putting together a i5-4690k build and hope to OC to about 4.5GHz. Would the H7 be good enough cooling for it?

Also has anyone added an extra fan to their H7? How much improvement?

I am deciding between H7 and Phanteks PH-TC12DX for size and budget reasons.

Thanks!


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *celebrevida*
> 
> I am putting together a i5-4690k build and hope to OC to about 4.5GHz. Would the H7 be good enough cooling for it?
> 
> Also has anyone added an extra fan to their H7? How much improvement?
> 
> I am deciding between H7 and Phanteks PH-TC12DX for size and budget reasons.
> 
> Thanks!


Since the h7 is comparable to the 212evo I'll say that it will perform well. But how well it performs can be affected by several factors. 1) How much voltage will your cpu require to reach 4.5ghz, you may win the lottery and get a golden ship or get a real crappy one haha. 2) Ambient temperature 3) PC case airflow. . . I say go for it and after all the testing is done post your results.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> Since the h7 is comparable to the 212evo I'll say that it will perform well. But how well it performs can be affected by several factors. 1) How much voltage will your cpu require to reach 4.5ghz, you may win the lottery and get a golden ship or get a real crappy one haha. 2) Ambient temperature 3) PC case airflow. . . I say go for it and after all the testing is done post your results.


I think the H7 is 2-3c better than 212, and TC12DX is similar to H5.


----------



## jarheadleeds

anyone know how much fans are separately from cryorig? the ones that come with the r1 ultimate, i want a third one.


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarheadleeds*
> 
> anyone know how much fans are separately from cryorig? the ones that come with the r1 ultimate, i want a third one.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UF1H80571


----------



## spackler

Thought I'd share my C1 mITX build. The cooler was the first thing I purchased and I based alot of my other build choices around it.





Originally wanted to do a black and white color scheme but would definitely try out a red C1 mod cover now that I have the black and red 980ti.


----------



## doyll

Nicely done!


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Sold my H7 to a client of mine who's Antec Kuhler 650's pump died. The performance of the H7 was great but it's so cramped inside my NZXT S340 case, that any air cooler looks awkward inside it.









I love their fans though, so I'll be replacing my stock ones with some Cryorigs.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Had some time in my hands and decided to test how much the R1 could really take. It took 1.36v for the temps to finally go over the 80C mark. 1.36v on FREAKIN AIR!!! Good thing that I now know that my i5 4670k can stay stable at 4.7ghz lol. . . R1 is one of the best things I've purchased for my pc. What do you guys think, should I daily this OC or just go back to the 4.4ghz 1.20v one?


----------



## Kutalion

I'd go back to like 4.5ghz, if you can achieve it at ~ 1.25v.

Btw. awesome temps, im deffo gonna remount mine, coz either i was pretty unlucky and got a horrid piece of 4690k with thick glue on IHS or something is wrong my paste spread.


----------



## Offender_Mullet

About time someone put a review of these on YouTube:

120mm Balance & Performance Review


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> I'd go back to like 4.5ghz, if you can achieve it at ~ 1.25v.
> 
> Btw. awesome temps, im deffo gonna remount mine, coz either i was pretty unlucky and got a horrid piece of 4690k with thick glue on IHS or something is wrong my paste spread.


Then I'll go with the 4.5ghz one with 1.25v. . . It can do 4.6ghz at 1.30v and 4.7ghz at 1.35v(jumps to 1.36v in prime 95 tho). I'm pretty certain that it can hit 4.8 at 1.40v but I'm not willing to push it that far because of the heat/cpu degrading etc.. Thanks for the input and what temps are you getting with your 4690k? I'm sure that is should run a LOT cooler than my 4670k at the same voltages.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Offender_Mullet*
> 
> About time someone put a review of these on YouTube:
> 
> 120mm Balance & Performance Review


No 140mm?


----------



## Kutalion

I'm in mid 80's on ~1.183v and 4.5ghz. Which is kinda high. Ambient is about 27 atm. Still gotta try something that Doyll recommended, turning top fan off. Also today ill reapply the paste and post results.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> I'm in mid 80's on ~1.183v and 4.5ghz. Which is kinda high. Ambient is about 27 atm. Still gotta try something that Doyll recommended, turning top fan off. Also today ill reapply the paste and post results.


God dang, apart from the heat the chip is golden. BTW the thermal paste I'm using is the Antec Formula 7 Nano Diamond but I think your problem is in the mounting. My pc case has 1x200mm intake, 1x120mm + 1x 200mm exhaust and my R1 has 3 fans.


----------



## Kutalion

Just redone the mounting. Paste was almost perfect spread the first time, a bit lacking on the bottom end of the cpu, but generally very thin.
Remounted with AS MX-4, got 1-2 degrees better temp, which might just be because the paste is fresh. So i'd say i got shafted by the thickness of the glue between the IHS and the pcb









As far as airflow goes 4x120mm intake, 1x140mm exhaus, 200mm exhaust.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

I guess its time to de-lid that 4690. . . apart from that Its a great overclocker.


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Their 120mm fans are on sale on NewEgg for only $11.99 each. The sale expires in 3 days.









Link


----------



## doyll

Good fans! Definitely a good deal!
Thanks for positing this


----------



## CrazyElf

There's a review of the AF41 out.

Link (in Spanish):
http://elchapuzasinformatico.com/2015/07/review-cryorig-af41/

 

Looks like they had to remove one of the fans to get the DIMMS to fit.

Results:


It would appear that we have hit the point of diminishing returns in air cooling? Although given their test methods, they may be quite flawed so we will not know for sure.

Edit:
I think that there must be something wrong in the test methods of the results. Why would a D15S outperform a D15 with just one fan?


----------



## MicroCat

Shoulda removed the dimm, not the fan from one of the two most vital pipe stacks. Or ponied up for some proper low profile sticks. Obviously not a valid test. Also a tepid overclock. Maybe they were pressured by their AIO sponsors to ensure that an April Fool's prank didn't spill cold air on the money stream.

And yes, that is an odd result for the D15S vs D15. Got no plausible explanation - Only to note the Google translated review is riddled with riddles - last sentence from the review:
Quote:


> _"Therefore demonstrates that the greater the size, the more radiators, heat pipes or fans will not get precisely significantly improve performance, but as the saying goes, big horse walk or not walk it says."
> _


Regardless of the horsing around, I really want one of these for my next itx build. Add a couple plexi sides and Whoosh! Instant designer case without the airflow restrictions or added cost of buying case intake/exhaust fans.


----------



## VSG

That is one of the media outlets I have had issues with in the past. They used some of my data to make their conclusions and never cited me. Only reason I found out was because someone brought it up in the comments section and linked my article. The whole thing has since been scrubbed away to make it seem like it never happened, but I see some guys occasionally quote me in the comments section whenever they disagree with the reviews from the website


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> And yes, that is an odd result for the D15S vs D15. Got no plausible explanation


The moment I saw that all credibility of their testing was gone in my eyes. There were more oddities, as well. It's these little things that throw up huge red flags.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That is one of the media outlets I have had issues with in the past. They used some of my data to make their conclusions and never cited me. Only reason I found out was because someone brought it up in the comments section and linked my article. The whole thing has since been scrubbed away to make it seem like it never happened, but I see some guys occasionally quote me in the comments section whenever they disagree with the reviews from the website


Plagiarism runs rampant in computer reviews. But, it is supposedly the sincerest form of flattery.....


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The moment I saw that all credibility of their testing was gone in my eyes. There were more oddities, as well. It's these little things that throw up huge red flags.
> Plagiarism runs rampant in computer reviews. But, it is supposedly the sincerest form of flattery.....


And flattery is the sincerest form of insult, so there's that!


----------



## CrazyElf

@Cryorig, maybe if you could, ideally, send one to HiTechLegion for analysis?

That and please put the AF41 on sale.







As I have said before, there is a market for this product, albeit a niche.

I think that on a horizontal (since this thing weighs on the order of 3kg so you don't want to mount it vertically) case, you might be able after consideration, to fit this on an HEDT platform, provided the fifth fan was removed.



The first PCI-E slot I don't think would be usable in this case, but otherwise it would work out. There are other boards out there where the first PCI-E slot might even be usable. Of course, you'd be restricted to low profile DIMMs for the RAM, but that's a small trade-off. This might actually work well because the HEDT generates a lot more heat (ex: clock for clock you can expect a 5960X to generate 2x as much heat as a 4790K).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That is one of the media outlets I have had issues with in the past. They used some of my data to make their conclusions and never cited me. Only reason I found out was because someone brought it up in the comments section and linked my article. The whole thing has since been scrubbed away to make it seem like it never happened, but I see some guys occasionally quote me in the comments section whenever they disagree with the reviews from the website


@VSG
Judging by their results, I'm not sure their test methodology has been consistent across the CPU coolers. That and they seem to be taking other people's work.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The moment I saw that all credibility of their testing was gone in my eyes. There were more oddities, as well. It's these little things that throw up huge red flags.


Without a review sample in the hands of someone like yourself, it will be impossible to draw conclusions.

I do expect to see some diminishing returns with 4 towers:

Cool air hits the first tower
Then the air is warmer by the time it hits the second tower
Then it's quite hot by the time it hits the third tower
Even hotter by the time it hits the fourth tower and exists the rear
Even so, I also expect to see a couple of degrees better cooling performance.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyElf*
> 
> Even so, I also expect to see a couple of degrees better cooling performance.


So..an extra kilogram per degree. That seems fair. ;-)

Still want this for an itx build - horizontal MB layout, of course. Totally crazy? Yes, and that's what makes it so attractive.


----------



## VSG

You need to have REALLY good (and thus, also potentially loud) airflow to not cause a heatsink sandwich effect, and even then each consecutive heatsink stack is going to be only less effective. The review was done in an open test bench (probably because of fit) but if any case fit this then it would be even worse. It was a very nice April fool's prank that actually got made for whatever reason, but let's leave it at that


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It was a very nice April fool's prank that actually got made for whatever reason, but let's leave it at that


I couldn't agree more.


----------



## doyll

They didn't even straighten up the finpacks









Cryorig, if you want an AF41 tested properly, send it directly to Ciarlatano or Geggeg .. or me.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You need to have REALLY good (and thus, also potentially loud) airflow to not cause a heatsink sandwich effect, and even then each consecutive heatsink stack is going to be only less effective. The review was done in an open test bench (probably because of fit) but if any case fit this then it would be even worse. It was a very nice April fool's prank that actually got made for whatever reason, but let's leave it at that


And that's exactly why mounting this on an itx board as the primary case structure and acting as the case intake and exhaust makes the punchline linger just a little longer.

There's been worse marketing pranks with LOUD Airflow, however, such as AIOs. 90% of those are bad jokes in poor acoustic taste. Sadly, the market didn't realize Asetek was just kidding.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> They didn't even straighten up the finpacks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cryorig, if you want an AF41 tested properly, send it directly to Ciarlatano or Geggeg .. or me.


Speaking of, how's your set up coming along? I would love to read a Doyll review


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> They didn't even straighten up the finpacks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cryorig, if you want an AF41 tested properly, send it directly to Ciarlatano or Geggeg .. or me.


Oh, no....definitely not me. I'm not mounting that thing on one of my MBs, that's just asking for trouble.

Speaking of which....I'm surprised it didn't fall right through that ASRock board, those things are made of tissue paper.


----------



## Steve-S

Lol, the AF41 was made to take up some show space for our booth at Computex. The AF41 was already near trashed by the end of Computex. The heatpipes couldn't support the over weight of the fins. We wanted to do a world tour for the AF41 from site to site, but I'm afraid that it will only last one more transit tops.


----------



## VSG

World tour would have been a fun idea, yes









How's the upcoming product line looking?


----------



## Dan-H

Hi, I guess I'm in the club since I just installed an R1 ultimate.

I'm not in love with it yet, but it is a work in progress... I expect when I get it all dialed in I'll be really happy.

edit: I don't think my crankyness is really aimed at the R1 ultimate, it is a combination of things, and one of them is this new rig isn't as quiet as my old rig and until I dial in all the fans, primarily the two cryorig fans, and get the fan profile to stick after a reboot I'll still be a little cranky









Noise aside (again, which I believe is the fan profiles as soon as the CPU gets a little busy) the cooling is fine.

This is cooling a 4790K with a Gigabyte Gaming 5 ATX board in a Fractal Design Refine R5.


----------



## Kutalion

Dan just put them on 700rpm (min) whenever you're not stress testing. Its more than enough for anything even with a decent overclock.
I know Gigabyte isnt too famous about their BIOS options and fan control.


----------



## doyll

Haven't use used any new Gigabyte boards, but found EasyTune to do a decent job . I've used fans with ranges from 300-1300rpm and 550-2500rpm with no problems.


----------



## pochiko

Is there any news about Z1 Universal?
I love its look and kinda wonder about its performance compare to R1 Universal.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Dan just put them on 700rpm (min) whenever you're not stress testing. Its more than enough for anything even with a decent overclock.
> I know Gigabyte isnt too famous about their BIOS options and fan control.


Thanks. If I can work out how to do this with either the Gigabyte BIOS or the suggestion made by doyll on getting SIV to run at startup this looks promising. My near term focus is stable and quiet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Haven't use used any new Gigabyte boards, but found EasyTune to do a decent job . I've used fans with ranges from 300-1300rpm and 550-2500rpm with no problems.


Maybe I need to spend more time with EasyTune, and I'll remove and download the latest as it has been suggested before I comment on it more.

hopefully tonight I'll get the SW updated. Thanks and I appreciate the comments and suggestions.


----------



## tp4tissue

Guys.. I got an H5 ober here..

So.. like the second set of fan clips that come with the cooler.. Does this only fit the XF140 ? it seems longer than the clips on the slim fan that's already on the cooler..

***, why they make this confusing..

Do they sell the clips so I can put 2 xf140s on the H5 ?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tp4tissue*
> 
> Guys.. I got an H5 ober here..
> 
> So.. like the second set of fan clips that come with the cooler.. Does this only fit the XF140 ? it seems longer than the clips on the slim fan that's already on the cooler..
> 
> ***, why they make this confusing..
> 
> Do they sell the clips so I can put 2 xf140s on the H5 ?


The second set of clips is to enable use of a full size fan.

Not sure if the slim clips are available separately.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tp4tissue*
> 
> Guys.. I got an H5 ober here..
> 
> So.. like the second set of fan clips that come with the cooler.. Does this only fit the XF140 ? it seems longer than the clips on the slim fan that's already on the cooler..
> 
> ***, why they make this confusing..
> 
> Do they sell the clips so I can put 2 xf140s on the H5 ?


I'm pretty sure H5 Universal comes with 2x XT140 fan clips and 2x XF140 fan clips. TechPowerUP shows it with both.
Quote:


> Common parts supplied for mounting include:
> 
> 4x Thumbscrews caps
> 4x LGA2011 screw pillars
> 4x Screw pillars
> 4x Acoustic vibration absorbers
> 2x User's manual
> 2x XT140 fan clips
> 2x XF140 fan clips
> 2x Intel mounting brackets
> 1x AMD mounting plate
> 1x AMD backplate
> 1x Intel backplate
> 1x 140 x 140 x 13 mm fan
> 1x Heatsink
> 1x Tube of thermal compound
> 1x Registration card
> 1x Phillips screwdriver
> 1x LGA775 backplate foam


https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/CRYORIG/H5_Universal/2.html


----------



## tp4tissue

Yea, ok.. I just wanted to confirmzies with you guys..

I got the 2 slim clips for the slim fan, which is already mounted , and it comes with the two longer clips.. I was confused because I thought it'd come with another set for another slim fan..

But alas, I suppose they want us to buy the XF..

Have you guys tried mounting fans on here other than the official cryorig fans? do these clips work on other fans ?

It doesn't seem to clip onto any other 120mm fans I have, but I'm reading they're for 120mm mounting holes..


----------



## Steve-S

Both the H5 Universal and H5 Ultimate comes with one set of clips for the XF and one for the XT.
Yeah.. we're going to start selling (cheaply) fan clips, connectors and mounting kits.


----------



## dgershko

are there any mini itx cases that would support the r1 ultimate?


----------



## Mozz13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgershko*
> 
> are there any mini itx cases that would support the r1 ultimate?


Let say you have a short ram and the fan clears it, phanteks evolv itx can clear the height of r1 ultimate. The spec said it can clears up to 200mm of cooler


----------



## MicroCat

Jonsbo W1 definitely will at 215mm. As will the Lian Li PC-Q36 at 170mm or the PC-Q33 with 180mm clearance.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgershko*
> 
> are there any mini itx cases that would support the r1 ultimate?


Of course, but make sure your mobo will accommodate the R1's width.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgershko*
> 
> are there any mini itx cases that would support the r1 ultimate?


Assuming the cooler will fit the motherboard, there is also the CaseLabs X2M.


----------



## tgildea

Can anyone tell me whether the H5 Universal is noticeably quieter than the H7 Universal?

I'm debating between the two. The H5 may interfere with longer cards in the top PCI-E slot on my board (Gigabyte Z97X-UD7 TH), but I could live with that if the H5 is going to be quieter at the same load vs. the H7.

I see that the fan on the H7 is able to go to much lower RPMs than the H5, and so it's possible it may be quieter at idle, but maybe the H5 would have the advantage at higher loads. Anyone know for sure?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tgildea*
> 
> Can anyone tell me whether the H5 Universal is noticeably quieter than the H7 Universal?
> 
> I'm debating between the two. The H5 may interfere with longer cards in the top PCI-E slot on my board (Gigabyte Z97X-UD7 TH), but I could live with that if the H5 is going to be quieter at the same load vs. the H7.
> 
> I see that the fan on the H7 is able to go to much lower RPMs than the H5, and so it's possible it may be quieter at idle, but maybe the H5 would have the advantage at higher loads. Anyone know for sure?


The H5 has much better passive cooling characteristics, so naturally will require less fan to accomplish the same level of cooling. I also recall that the H5 Universal does not interfere with the first PCIe slot, though I could be mistaken on that. and....I was mistaken, it does slightly go into the space of the first PCIe.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The H5 has much better passive cooling characteristics, so naturally will require less fan to accomplish the same level of cooling. I also recall that the H5 Universal does not interfere with the first PCIe slot, though I could be mistaken on that. and....I was mistaken, it does slightly go into the space of the first PCIe.


"Slightly go into the space of" must be similar to "kinda pregnant."


----------



## doyll

Just stumbled onto this testing of Cryorig's CP5, CP7 & CP15.
Quite impressive!










  

http://elchapuzasinformatico.com/2015/08/review-cryorig-cp5-cp7-cp15/


----------



## MEC-777

Hey all. I'm currently running a Corsair H60 AIO on my i5-4570 (@3.74). It's quiet and keeps the CPU plenty cool enough, but I'm considering changing to the Cryorig H7. I don't want a HUGE air cooler, but one that's definitely "capable" and looks good (matches my black & while theme).

My case is an NZXT S340 and the only place I can have the H60 mounted is at the front (rear is taken up by an H55 cooling my R9 290 with a Kraken G10) which means there's less fresh/cool air being pulled into the case. I'm planning to add a 2nd R9 290 in crossfire, so I'm going to want as much fresh air coming into the case as possible. Silent/quiet system operation is very important - the quieter the better.









So my question to you folks is; if I have two really good 120mm case fans (Deepcool GF120's) as intakes, and an SP120 pulling air from right behind it, could the H7 be used passively in this situation? I think it could, but I wanted to hear directly from people who have used the H7.

Thanks,

MEC.


----------



## Kutalion

It could but you have to consider 2x 290's dissipate insane amounts of heat. You'll need excellent exhaust as well in order to keep all that hot air away from passively cooled cpu.
I personally wouldnt go for passive cooling in a case with 2x 290.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Hey all. I'm currently running a Corsair H60 AIO on my i5-4570 (@3.74). It's quiet and keeps the CPU plenty cool enough, but I'm considering changing to the Cryorig H7. I don't want a HUGE air cooler, but one that's definitely "capable" and looks good (matches my black & while theme).
> 
> My case is an NZXT S340 and the only place I can have the H60 mounted is at the front (rear is taken up by an H55 cooling my R9 290 with a Kraken G10) which means there's less fresh/cool air being pulled into the case. I'm planning to add a 2nd R9 290 in crossfire, so I'm going to want as much fresh air coming into the case as possible. Silent/quiet system operation is very important - the quieter the better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So my question to you folks is; if I have two really good 120mm case fans (Deepcool GF120's) as intakes, and an SP120 pulling air from right behind it, could the H7 be used passively in this situation? I think it could, but I wanted to hear directly from people who have used the H7.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> MEC.


I don't see using an H7 passively as going very well, especially not with 290s in the case, as @Kutalion pointed out, and in an S340 that does not have exceptional flow to begin with.

Frankly....with a Corsair SP120 and an H55, having a fan on your CPU cooler is the least of your noise concerns.


----------



## doyll

What ciarlatano said.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> It could but you have to consider 2x 290's dissipate insane amounts of heat. You'll need excellent exhaust as well in order to keep all that hot air away from passively cooled cpu.
> I personally wouldnt go for passive cooling in a case with 2x 290.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I don't see using an H7 passively as going very well, especially not with 290s in the case, as @Kutalion pointed out, and in an S340 that does not have exceptional flow to begin with.
> 
> Frankly....with a Corsair SP120 and an H55, having a fan on your CPU cooler is the least of your noise concerns.


Thanks for the replies.









As I mentioned before, the R9 290 I have in there right now is cooled by a kraken G10 with an H55 mounted as exhaust, so pretty much 90% of the heat that thing puts off is exhausting right out the back, not inside the case. The air my top fan exhausts right now is generally only a little above ambient and is mostly the air being exhausted by the H60 cooling the CPU. So as it stands, replacing that H60 with a fan, will mean the CPU cooler receives nothing but cool air from the front. Most of the warm air kicked off by the VRMs on the 290 gets blown (and sucked) out the back by the lower front 120mm fan and the SP120 on the H55. So all the air in the case is moving uniformly from front to back.

With adding the 2nd R9 290, I didn't mention this before, but I'm planning to use a reference model that will exhaust the majority of it's hot air out the back as well. Yes I know they are extremely loud, but with running two in crossfire, it won't be running at full load very often (I run a single 1080p display with Vsync). I also plan on modifying the reference cooler to use a different type of fan that will be drastically quieter.

The SP120 on the H55 is practically inaudible (to me) at anything under 1400rpm and at that rpm it's cooling capabilities are more than adequate.

It's not like I'm concerned this one extra 120mm fan will make it that much louder - it won't make any difference, really. I know that. I'm just thinking if the cooler is getting a good supply of cool air from the intake fans which are only 6-8" away, and all hot air is going out the back, then an additional fan on the cooler itself shouldn't be necessary, that's all.

Primary use for this machine is gaming, so the CPU very rarely sees loads of over 80% for sustained periods of time (typically between 40-60% most of the time).

Anyways, I appreciate the input. I think I'll just have to try it and see how it works. Will report back with the results in a couple months.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> Thanks for the replies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, the R9 290 I have in there right now is cooled by a kraken G10 with an H55 mounted as exhaust, so pretty much 90% of the heat that thing puts off is exhausting right out the back, not inside the case.


What about the heat from the VRM? You know that the 290 VRM with that (godforsaken) G10 is running around 100C under load, and all the G10 is doing is helping to circulate the heated air around the case. You very literally have a 100 degree 1"x4" patch sitting directly below the CPU.

Do not mistake a G10 for a full cover block and think it is doing something similar.

The other issue is the fact that there will not be enough force to the flow to have the fresh air moving through the tower. Air will take the path of least resistance, which in this case would be around the tower and out the back. This is why fans are used directly on the towers, or in the case of the Mach Zero a duct is used.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> What about the heat from the VRM? You know that the 290 VRM with that (godforsaken) G10 is running around 100C under load, and all the G10 is doing is helping to circulate the heated air around the case. You very literally have a 100 degree 1"x4" patch sitting directly below the CPU.
> 
> Do not mistake a G10 for a full cover block and think it is doing something similar.
> 
> The other issue is the fact that there will not be enough force to the flow to have the fresh air moving through the tower. Air will take the path of least resistance, which in this case would be around the tower and out the back. This is why fans are used directly on the towers, or in the case of the Mach Zero a duct is used.


No, the VRMs don't run at 100 degrees under load. I've had this 290 OC'd to 1200/1600 and VRM1 (the main VRMs) never exceeded the mid 70's with the G10. You do realize it has a 92mm fan sitting directly over that area of the PCB right? Plus my particular 290 (HIS IceQx2) has a good sized heatsink on the VRM array as well. Typically they sit in the low 60's while gaming with a mild OC.

Yes, that VRM fan is blowing that warm air out and around the card, but you have to take into account all the fans in the system - including the ones blowing that warm air towards the back of the case. Not much of it escapes directly straight up at all, in fact. Otherwise, I'd be getting much warmer air exhausting out the top exhaust which doesn't happen at all.

I was never comparing the G10 to a full water block, but it is FAR better than a typical open-air cooler.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEC-777*
> 
> No, the VRMs don't run at 100 degrees under load. I've had this 290 OC'd to 1200/1600 and VRM1 (the main VRMs) never exceeded the mid 70's with the G10. You do realize it has a 92mm fan sitting directly over that area of the PCB right? Plus my particular 290 (HIS IceQx2) has a good sized heatsink on the VRM array as well. Typically they sit in the low 60's while gaming with a mild OC......


All that aside....the point is that you have a fairly significant heat source in the case that sits right below the CPU cooler. With a fan on the cooler, it is not as big an issue since there will be intake air forced through the fins of the cooler. Running it passively this will not happen. You simply don't have enough, or strong enough, flow in the case to effectively support passive cooling with something as small as an H7.


----------



## doyll

I've told ciarlatano a million times not to exaggerate









What he's saying is true. Even with a large cooler I doubt it would work passively. Maybe semi-passively like Macho Zero dies, but there would still be little airflow over mobo components to cool them.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I've told ciarlatano a million times not to exaggerate


It hasn't been a million yet. Stop exaggerating.


----------



## MEC-777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> All that aside....the point is that you have a fairly significant heat source in the case that sits right below the CPU cooler. With a fan on the cooler, it is not as big an issue since there will be intake air forced through the fins of the cooler. Running it passively this will not happen. You simply don't have enough, or strong enough, flow in the case to effectively support passive cooling with something as small as an H7.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I've told ciarlatano a million times not to exaggerate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What he's saying is true. Even with a large cooler I doubt it would work passively. Maybe semi-passively like Macho Zero dies, but there would still be little airflow over mobo components to cool them.


Thanks again for the input guys. I understand what you're saying and that very well could be the case. I'm the type of person, however, that is not satisfied until I've tried it myself.







No offense to you folks, I respect and appreciate your input, I'm just the curious type who likes to do things "differently". (Like stacked AIO rads in a Node 304 - people told me it wouldn't work, but it actually worked perfectly).









Will keep a very close eye on temps and try running it passive. Will report back with the results once I get my hands on an H7 in a couple months.


----------



## 1508AD

Stupid question guys.

I have the Cryorig r1 universal cooler on an older 2600k. Will this cooler mount on the skylake 1151 motherboards?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1508AD*
> 
> Stupid question guys.
> 
> I have the Cryorig r1 universal cooler on an older 2600k. Will this cooler mount on the skylake 1151 motherboards?


No question is stupid.
Yes, it will fit. All 115x series use same mounts.


----------



## GhettoFied

Having just got to college wanted to comment how funny the bias is that some people have against air cooling. A lot of the people with built PC's here have silly H80i's and think they are better than my R1. Ha! No thanks. Have to say, the R1 has been an excellent purchase and I hope Cryorig grows as a company.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Having just got to college wanted to comment how funny the bias is that some people have against air cooling. A lot of the people with built PC's here have silly H80i's and think they are better than my R1. Ha! No thanks. Have to say, the R1 has been an excellent purchase and I hope Cryorig grows as a company.


I'm willing to bet that the pump in the h80 fails before a fan on the r1 will. Even then, it's cheaper to replace a fan lol. I personally will go 9/10 times with air over a closed loop, If I ever do a custom loop it'll be for the pair of Fury X's that I'm planning to buy.

I think the r1 looks/performs WAAAAAY better than any h80 ever will, , , I get wood whenever i see my r1 lol


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Having just got to college wanted to comment how funny the bias is that some people have against air cooling. A lot of the people with built PC's here have silly H80i's and think they are better than my R1. Ha! No thanks. Have to say, the R1 has been an excellent purchase and I hope Cryorig grows as a company.


Maybe they think that temp and noise charts are read as "Higher Is Better"?


----------



## Kutalion

AIO + Noctua fans = winning at life. CPU freezing.


----------



## miguelbazil

Hello guys, I've searched the thread but found nothing on this, Has anyone tried the Cryorig C1 on a Cooler Master 110? Do you think it will fit?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miguelbazil*
> 
> Hello guys, I've searched the thread but found nothing on this, Has anyone tried the Cryorig C1 on a Cooler Master 110? Do you think it will fit?


Sense your case has 76mm CPU clearance and C1 is 74mm it should fit.

But in order to have airflow the cooler fan will need to be turned so it is pulling air up out of cooler and PSU will need to mounted so it is drawing air directly off of the C1 fan. If PSU is mount drawing air from outside of case there is no room for C1 fan airflow. because there is only 2mm between fan and PSU. I would be tempted to try it without a fan on the C1 and just let the PSU fan pull air directly from cooler with a 15-16mm shroud between cooler and PSU .. assuming PSU fan is always spinning.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Maybe they think that temp and noise charts are read as "Higher Is Better"?


Or believe everything advertising says
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> AIO + Noctua fans = winning at life. CPU freezing.


More like an expensive way to make a bad issue less of a problem.

CLC are more expensive, louder, less reliable, don't last as long, and cool no better than top air running quieter and costing much less money.

CLC = $ $111.99 (H100i GTX )+ $49.98 (two NF-A12IPPC fans) = $161.97
Top Air = $79.99 (PH-TC14PE), $$75.95 (NH-D14), $79.99 (Deepcool Assassin II), $84.99 (Silver Arrow IB-E), $89.99 (R1 Ultimate or R1 Universal), $92.99 (Heligon HE01), $94.95 (Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme), $94.99 (NH-D15), $100.00 (Dark Rock Pro 3), and many more at similar prices.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> AIO + Noctua fans = winning at life. CPU freezing.


Not sure if this is serious.....or really well placed sarcasm.......

I am really hoping for the latter, or that the reference is to Swiftech/Ek units exclusively. Really hoping.....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Or believe everything advertising says
> More like an expensive way to make a bad issue less of a problem.
> 
> CLC are more expensive, louder, less reliable, don't last as long, and cool no better than top air running quieter and costing much less money.
> 
> CLC = $ $111.99 (H100i GTX )+ $49.98 (two NF-A12IPPC fans) = $161.97
> Top Air = $79.99 (PH-TC14PE), $$75.95 (NH-D14), $79.99 (Deepcool Assassin II), $84.99 (Silver Arrow IB-E), $89.99 (R1 Ultimate or R1 Universal), $92.99 (Heligon HE01), $94.95 (Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme), $94.99 (NH-D15), $100.00 (Dark Rock Pro 3), and many more at similar prices.


Since this is a Cryorig thread, particularly, you may want to point out that the said $161.97 unit will still be louder than the $89 R1, while not performing near as well in most scenarios. On as Haswell/DC, performance would actually be more in line with a $49 H5, and it would still be considerably louder.


----------



## miguelbazil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I would be tempted to try it without a fan on the C1 and just let the PSU fan pull air directly from cooler with a 15-16mm shroud between cooler and PSU .. assuming PSU fan is always spinning.


Highly doubt that it would be always spinning, currently it's a V700. It's probable to stay completely idle the whole time. I'm probably going to switch the PSU anyway (considering either bringing my XFX XTR 650w, or even going for a Cm V550S), and that should give me enough space for the WC. The alternative currently is a Seidon 120M and its felxible tubes.

Going for a fanless solution with the PSU doing the air pull is complicated with the new trend of the silent PSU's that don't have the fans spinning unless you hit xºC does make this a lot less likely to work IMHO. Still, thanks for the input, it does confirm me that the C1 might not be what I'm looking for.

For reference, this is where I'm discussing my build.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miguelbazil*
> 
> Highly doubt that it would be always spinning, currently it's a V700. It's probable to stay completely idle the whole time. I'm probably going to switch the PSU anyway (considering either bringing my XFX XTR 650w, or even going for a Cm V550S), and that should give me enough space for the WC. The alternative currently is a Seidon 120M and its felxible tubes.
> 
> Going for a fanless solution with the PSU doing the air pull is complicated with the new trend of the silent PSU's that don't have the fans spinning unless you hit xºC does make this a lot less likely to work IMHO. Still, thanks for the input, it does confirm me that the C1 might not be what I'm looking for.
> 
> For reference, this is where I'm discussing my build.


Then use the fan on the C1, but do turn PSU and cooler fan so airflow is from motherboard up through cooler, fan, into PSU and out of case.
Only have 2mm on either side of the C1 fan just means a little more air noise.


----------



## Dan-H

Are there options for slowing the R1 ultimate fans even more? 780rpm is fairly quiet, but 500 would be even better.

I don't want to limit the top-end speed, as I love the cooling ability under load but I'd trade off 5-10C of temp at idle or light usage for a nearly silent system.

Short of replacing the fans is there more I can do? And even replacing the fans, what options are there?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> Are there options for slowing the R1 ultimate fans even more? 780rpm is fairly quiet, but 500 would be even better.
> 
> I don't want to limit the top-end speed, as I love the cooling ability under load but I'd trade off 5-10C of temp at idle or light usage for a nearly silent system.
> 
> Short of replacing the fans is there more I can do? And even replacing the fans, what options are there?


You should be able to get them down to 700rpm. Both of my coolers idle 700rpm @ 10% and 1400rpm @ 100% on UD3R and UD5 motherboards. I should test them on Aquaero fan controller to see if I get the same speeds.


----------



## jstrongphoto

My 1st build. Bitfenix Phenom mATX case. Two Asus Strix GTX 980 Ti's in SLI. i7 6700 processor with Cryorig R1 Universal. Originally intended to use mITX and changed directions mid build to mATX, hence why RI Universal instead of Ultimate. Wish Cryorig made slim 120mm fans, and a 230mm fan, then the entire case could have been Cryorig. If they choose to make those, I will gladly try them out. Until then, I had to settle for something else.


----------



## GhettoFied

That's gotta be one insanely hot box.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jstrongphoto*
> 
> My 1st build. Bitfenix Phenom mATX case. Two Asus Strix GTX 980 Ti's in SLI. i7 6700 processor with Cryorig R1 Universal. Originally intended to use mITX and changed directions mid build to mATX, hence why RI Universal instead of Ultimate. Wish Cryorig made slim 120mm fans, and a 230mm fan, then the entire case could have been Cryorig. If they choose to make those, I will gladly try them out. Until then, I had to settle for something else.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build.








What are load temps like?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> That's gotta be one insanely hot box.


I wouldn't think so. The airflow is well setup, and the Strix coolers do a very good job of taming the 980 Ti.


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Their fans are on sale at NewEgg again.









*Link*


----------



## Kutalion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Not sure if this is serious.....or really well placed sarcasm.......
> 
> I am really hoping for the latter, or that the reference is to Swiftech/Ek units exclusively. Really hoping.....
> Since this is a Cryorig thread, particularly, you may want to point out that the said $161.97 unit will still be louder than the $89 R1, while not performing near as well in most scenarios. On as Haswell/DC, performance would actually be more in line with a $49 H5, and it would still be considerably louder.


I thought it was obvious i was rather sarcastic. I wouldnt touch aio with a 10 foot pole, aside from ek/swif units







proud owner of R1 here.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> I thought it was obvious i was rather sarcastic. I wouldnt touch aio with a 10 foot pole, aside from ek/swif units
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> proud owner of R1 here.


Phew, had me worried. Well played, sir....well played.

Unfortunately, these days sometimes what seems like obvious sarcasm simply isn't. Read through some of the CLC threads, you would swear they were the products of hallucinogen use.....or that they were doing their "testing" on a planet with an atmosphere entirely unlike Earth's with a winged unicorn aiding the CLC's cooling somehow. And your stated combo of CLC + Noctua fans, well, that has the extra special heavy duty fairy dust that drops core temps 20C below ambient at all times.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Phew, had me worried. Well played, sir....well played.
> 
> Unfortunately, these days sometimes what seems like obvious sarcasm simply isn't. Read through some of the CLC threads, you would swear they were the products of hallucinogen use.....or that they were doing their "testing" on a planet with an atmosphere entirely unlike Earth's with a winged unicorn aiding the CLC's cooling somehow. And your stated combo of CLC + Noctua fans, well, that has the extra special heavy duty fairy dust that drops core temps 20C below ambient at all times.


Only too true. Truth and fact have no place with many CLC advocates. Like politicians, possibly worse .. but not as detrimental to our lives and freedoms.


----------



## Kutalion

Man, i know. Getting ppl to understand that top aircoolers perform almost the same with miles better sound characteristics is like fighting with windmills. And noctua is almost like a religion. Every time i say and provide proof there are bettee fans i get marked as a nutcase in local forums. But i digress from topic. I really hope Cryorig future aio lineup will have at least nepton 240m pump flow and copper rads.


----------



## doyll

Cryorig does it again!
Quote:


> PC thermal solution innovation brand CRYORIG is releasing a new addition to it's C Series line up and also it's smallest cooler to date, the C7 compact cooler. First revealed in Computex 2015 the C7 is a low profile cooler with a max height of 47mm. The C7's 47mm height also makes it only 2mm taller than the Intel Stock Heatsink, meaning it will fit in almost all case designs. Despite it's size the C7 also packs a heavy dose of cooling with a total of 4 high performance heatpipes, phenomenal for it's size. Fitted with a dedicated 92mm 2500rpm PWM fan with CRYORIG's proprietary Quad Air Inlet™ System for maximum airflow. The C7 effectively provides 25% more cooling capacity than stock heatsinks from Intel/AMD, while being up to 20% lower in noise. It's (W)97x(L)97x(H)47mm dimensions also makes it compatible with the latest 1151/115x Intel boards and AMD offerings, with no interference with PCI-E GPU cards or RAM slots.
> 
> The C7 was designed from the ground up to be a cooler that fits anywhere and with everything. With dimensions aimed at complying with the Intel/AMD CPU Keep Out Zone, the C7 can fit snuggly into almost all boards and also all PC-chassis including the lowest rising SFF cases. Aimed at being the best in it's size category, with the help of CRYORIG proprietary manufacturing processes the C7 come with a total of 4 6mm premium performance heatpipes, something usually only found in larger tower grade heatsinks. The C7 is also fitted with a 92mm 600~2500rpm PWM controlled fan. With the help of CRYORIG proprietary Quad Air Inlet™ System for extra air intake and airflow, the C7 offers 40.5 CFM, 2.8mmH20 air pressure at 30.0dBA. In all the C7 can effectively trump the Intel Stock Cooler by more than 25% in cooling performance, and 20% less noise, all the while being no bigger than stock. The C7 is aimed to be both extremely versatile with it's size as a stock cooler replacement or upgrade, while also being a strong performance option for SFF/ITX systems that only has enough space for stock cooling. The C7 is target for a September global release beginning in Japan, Taiwan, South-East Asia, and the US, with European markets targeted later in October. MSRP is 29.99 USD (-VAT) in the USA and 29.99 Euro (-VAT) in Europe.


----------



## Sepesusi

Great to see Cryorig becoming more and more known. I remember when on a local computer news site some time ago no one knew anything about the whole brand, but now there have been multiple news about their new coolers (just read one about the C7) and they have a Cryorig cooler lined up for their upcoming review of low-profile coolers.

Been really happy with my R1 Universal.


----------



## Steve-S

Thanks @Sepesusi we're trying hard at becoming known!


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jstrongphoto*
> 
> My 1st build. Bitfenix Phenom mATX case. Two Asus Strix GTX 980 Ti's in SLI. i7 6700 processor with Cryorig R1 Universal. Originally intended to use mITX and changed directions mid build to mATX, hence why RI Universal instead of Ultimate. Wish Cryorig made slim 120mm fans, and a 230mm fan, then the entire case could have been Cryorig. If they choose to make those, I will gladly try them out. Until then, I had to settle for something else.


How's the case cooling on the Phenom. I personally am looking at building a new micro-ATX system. I want it as small as possible, and extremely small mATX options are really few and far between. Your build looks solid
 








We have one 140mm Square Frame coming out before the end of the year, but other new fan projects are on hold for now. We're still primarily focused on Cooling first, then making new fans if needed for the new cooler. But just for discussion, what would you want in a slim 120 or 230(slim/full?) fan?


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Man, i know. Getting ppl to understand that top aircoolers perform almost the same with miles better sound characteristics is like fighting with windmills. And noctua is almost like a religion. Every time i say and provide proof there are bettee fans i get marked as a nutcase in local forums. But i digress from topic. I really hope Cryorig future aio lineup will have at least nepton 240m pump flow and copper rads.


Sorry no copper rads this time. Our first three models are here to first test out market reaction to our Airflow fan. We'll begin on more elaborate and distinctively CRYORIG designs in a future round.


----------



## doyll

Good to see you post @Steve-S.








I notice yo lurking in the background occasionally.








Cryorig's outstanding products and great customer support have made you a leader in the cooling industry.


----------



## miguelbazil

Well now you get this one out... If you had arrived a bit earlier...


----------



## Roaches

Any update on the Z1 Universal? Its been a while last time it was shown/discussed.


----------



## Curiosity

I'm so excited to get my hands on and personally test out the C7, the wait is killing me!

Even a review would help ease the impatience, but so far none exist.


----------



## doyll

Sadly it can be months from anouncement to reviews.
Love Akitas.


----------



## Curiosity

Sadly.

Though supposedly its available.....somewhere.

And I think the US availability is supposed to start near the end of the month?

Edit:

Looks like at least one place in japan has it.


----------



## doyll

Often products are released in the Far East before they reach the west. Sometimes they sell over there for 6 months to a year before coming west.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You should be able to get them down to 700rpm. Both of my coolers idle 700rpm @ 10% and 1400rpm @ 100% on UD3R and UD5 motherboards. I should test them on Aquaero fan controller to see if I get the same speeds.


Got busy with other things, so I'm back to slowing my Cryorig R1 ultimate fans down...

I cannot seem to get them below 780 RPM.

I'm using SpeedFan. the Sensor / controller listed is the IT8620E
Connected to Fan1 which is the CPU_Fan.

On the speeds tab, Fans are set to Min value of 0%, Max value of 100%.

On Fan Control I am using four temp measurements, the temps from each CPU core.
I have the fan curve set to be 0% at 55C and lower, sloping up to 100% at 75C.

Fan speed according to speedfan and HWiNFO64 is hovering around 787, with the lowest recorded of 783.

Should I try connecting the CPU cooler to a different fan controller on the motherboard?

Should I try connecting one fan to the CPU_FAN, and the second fan to CPU_OPT?

I'd like to get the system a little quieter at idle, and not have to buy new fans.

Also, I'm assuming it is my motherboard and not the fans. Is that a fair assumption?

Here are the details if it helps.


----------



## Kutalion

That seems under the operational parameters. Mine go to 700RPM, but all fans are +-10% speed depending on the sample.


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Holy crap that is a LOT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Z1 reminds me of that Zalman cooler though


The Z1 instantly made me think of the Zalman CNPS9900DF and CNPS12X coolers.

The Z1 would be superior due to the ability to switch out fan if it ever goes bad.



Info off computerbase:
http://www.computerbase.de/2015-06/cryorig-sechs-neue-cpu-kuehler-und-ein-netzteil-mit-wlan/
L × W × H: 144 × 152 × 165 mm
6 × 6 mm Ø heatpipes
1,081 g with fan , 837 g without


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> The Z1 instantly made me think of the Zalman CNPS9900DF and CNPS12X coolers.
> 
> The Z1 would be superior due to the ability to switch out fan if it ever goes bad.
> 
> 
> 
> Info off computerbase:
> http://www.computerbase.de/2015-06/cryorig-sechs-neue-cpu-kuehler-und-ein-netzteil-mit-wlan/
> L × W × H: 144 × 152 × 165 mm
> 6 × 6 mm Ø heatpipes
> 1,081 g with fan , 837 g without


Radial fin layout does have some advantages. Better airflow to motherboard for one. Z1 having 2x 140mm fans and shrouds should give more and better airflow than Zalman radials have.


----------



## rapkct

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Curiosity*
> 
> Sadly.
> 
> Though supposedly its available.....somewhere.
> 
> And I think the US availability is supposed to start near the end of the month?
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Looks like at least one place in japan has it.


Meanwhile, only one shop in the entire of Malaysia are selling them. I suppose that makes them pretty rare over here.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Curiosity*
> 
> Sadly.
> 
> Though supposedly its available.....somewhere.
> 
> And I think the US availability is supposed to start near the end of the month?
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Looks like at least one place in japan has it.


Sorry to say but the pain of shipping product to Europe is strong. It takes around 1.5~2 months to get stuff into warehouses in EU/UK, and around 3 weeks to get to the USA. While Asian nations can get it in 2 weeks tops.

Man I so wish teleportatoin tech comes out soon, or air freight becomes dirt cheap.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rapkct*
> 
> Meanwhile, only one shop in the entire of Malaysia are selling them. I suppose that makes them pretty rare over here.


Ideal Tech is our main reseller/disty there. Give them some time and love to grow!


----------



## faizreds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Ideal Tech is our main reseller/disty there. Give them some time and love to grow!


Bought my R1 ultimate from Ideal Tech.


----------



## rapkct

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Ideal Tech is our main reseller/disty there. Give them some time and love to grow!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faizreds*
> 
> Bought my R1 ultimate from Ideal Tech.


I bought mine from there actually. Ah... the benefits of having them located within 5 minutes of driving distance...


----------



## faizreds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rapkct*
> 
> I bought mine from there actually. Ah... the benefits of having them located within 5 minutes of driving distance...


Good for you. I have to order it online and have them post it to me since I live in terengganu.
I bought all my components online because there is not much to choose from computer shop at my place.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Good to see you post @Steve-S.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I notice yo lurking in the background occasionally.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cryorig's outstanding products and great customer support have made you a leader in the cooling industry.


Lol, I'm a lurker. I would reply everything if I could!
We're trying hard to build up our product portfolio, with at least 4 more models coming out before the end of the year. We're far from being the industry leader, but I would like to think that what we're doing is causing some change to the industry. Solid and also beautiful products.

We'll begin to slow down for next year, and probably start our long over due case project.


----------



## Kutalion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Lol, I'm a lurker. I would reply everything if I could!
> We're trying hard to build up our product portfolio, with at least 4 more models coming out before the end of the year. We're far from being the industry leader, but I would like to think that what we're doing is causing some change to the industry. Solid and also beautiful products.
> 
> We'll begin to slow down for next year, and probably start our long over due case project.


Wait... Cryorig cases? Im aroused. If you can make coolers this beautiful, i can only imagine the cases.
Anyway from my viewpoint CR has changed the market and what is considered an attractively looking product while being top of the line with both performance and customer support.


----------



## smithydan

Cases should be interesting to see. Everyone seems to be heading there eventually.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Any word on when the hybrid aio's will be coming out? I'm curious about the various options.


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Lol, I'm a lurker. I would reply everything if I could!
> We're trying hard to build up our product portfolio, with at least 4 more models coming out before the end of the year. We're far from being the industry leader, but I would like to think that what we're doing is causing some change to the industry. Solid and also beautiful products.
> 
> We'll begin to slow down for next year, and probably start our long over due case project.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Wait... Cryorig cases? Im aroused. If you can make coolers this beautiful, i can only imagine the cases.
> Anyway from my viewpoint CR has changed the market and what is considered an attractively looking product while being top of the line with both performance and customer support.


Well lets not hope its not another of those boring standard ATX cases with absolutely little configuration at all. I don't have high hopes for the already saturated 100-200 dollar market. Best of luck on your designs. Unfortunately I only been eyeing In Win for their cases as of late being worthy to buy despite well worth their high premium due to material quality.


----------



## doyll

I'm sure Steve and crew will make something outstanding and resolve many of the short sighted engineering problems of other cases .. like
Easily removable fan filters that do not require pulling the case away from the wall to pull them out the back of case.







We need to be easily removed without moving the case.
Doors on front that only open one way .. which Sod's Law says is almost always the wrong way for where we have to put our cases.
Nice big 140mm fans with vent grills that block 50-80% of the airflow area to / from the fans.








We need vent airflow area to match the airflow area of fan .. that is approx. 15sq cm. for a 140mm fan.








Nice big cases with 5cm of plastic clipped onto the front .. meaning there is no way to get a hand under the front and back to pick it up without likely breaking the front off.







We need places to put our hands to lift the case .. not big fancy handles or anything like that. Just have a case bottom big enough we can pick it up.









We also need cases that flow air straight through, not lower front to upper back like most do now. The look nice, but flow much of the heated GPU exhaust up around CPU cooler and motherboard components that need cool air, not heated exhaust.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm sure Steve and crew will make something outstanding and resolve many of the short sighted engineering problems of other cases .. like
> Easily removable fan filters that do not require pulling the case away from the wall to pull them out the back of case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We need to be easily removed without moving the case.
> Doors on front that only open one way .. which Sod's Law says is almost always the wrong way for where we have to put our cases.
> Nice big 140mm fans with vent grills that block 50-80% of the airflow area to / from the fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We need vent airflow area to match the airflow area of fan .. that is approx. 15sq cm. for a 140mm fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice big cases with 5cm of plastic clipped onto the front .. meaning there is no way to get a hand under the front and back to pick it up without likely breaking the front off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We need places to put our hands to lift the case .. not big fancy handles or anything like that. Just have a case bottom big enough we can pick it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We also need cases that flow air straight through, not lower front to upper back like most do now. The look nice, but flow much of the heated GPU exhaust up around CPU cooler and motherboard components that need cool air, not heated exhaust.


LOL!









Your points are spot on - common sense, but with the prevailing fashion over function designs, reads like a Monty Python script for DIYers.

This could be the start of a functional case design manifesto that you could nail to the front door of case manufacturer's sites. If the doors weren't made of molded plastic and buggy javascript.


----------



## rapkct

Hmmm, just a query. My CPU idle temp is around 37-38C, rarely touching 36C with the H5 Ultimate on a 4770K (no OC). The setup is sitting in a Define R5 with three intakes (one of them pointing to the GPU from the bottom) and an exhaust, think I'm fine with those temps? When I'm playing WoWS it goes up to 50C.


----------



## MicroCat

For stock clocks at idle seems a little on the warm side. However, the load temps seem great - most sensors aren't reliable at idle anyhow.

Have you used a stress test, like IBT or P95 to find the thermal ceiling?


----------



## rapkct

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> For stock clocks at idle seems a little on the warm side. However, the load temps seem great - most sensors aren't reliable at idle anyhow.
> 
> Have you used a stress test, like IBT or P95 to find the thermal ceiling?


I haven't have the time to run either of them, which one would be better?


----------



## MicroCat

IBT is the simplest for me. After 3-5 passes the CPU should have have reached it's peak temp. Since it's not overclocked, there's no point torturing the cpu for hours.

For more real world temp/stability testing, Asus' RealBench is also a good choice. But, takes longer - who has time for that?









Note: Using any of these tests that invoke AVX instructions will push the temps way above normal load conditions.


----------



## rapkct

Ah crap, I'm hitting 90C with Prime95...


----------



## MicroCat

Which version of P95? If it's using AVX, then those temps while high are not unexpected. However, it might be worth performing a remount and revising case airflow.


----------



## rapkct

The latest available at their site, x64. Jumped into small FFT right away and I won't reach home in another 3 hours.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rapkct*
> 
> Hmmm, just a query. My CPU idle temp is around 37-38C, rarely touching 36C with the H5 Ultimate on a 4770K (no OC). The setup is sitting in a Define R5 with three intakes (one of them pointing to the GPU from the bottom) and an exhaust, think I'm fine with those temps? When I'm playing WoWS it goes up to 50C.


My biggest question is what's the amibent air temperature? If it's anything like my place where it easily gets 25-28C in the living room even in the winter....... My R1 ultimate idles my 4770K between 38-42C depending on how the living room temperatures are. Heck, right now the cores are boucning around between 34-36C and the living room's around 25.4C or so (didn't feel like removing the thermocouples from my benching rig and putting them right near my R1 ultimate, but they're only a few feet away at the moment).

Note that my 4770K is sitting at 4.6GHz with just a bit of voltage being put into it... 1.324V core I think, with vring and vccin at numbers I can't remember.


----------



## MicroCat

And after ambient, you want to know the cooler intake temp. Will be higher than ambient. If it's up to 5 degrees higher than room temp (temp just outside the case) then the case airflow is pretty much optimized. If the cooler intake is 6-10+ over the ambient temp, then the case airflow can be improved. A $10 indoor/outdoor thermometer is all that is required to measure the intake vs room temp gradient.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rapkct*
> 
> The latest available at their site, x64. Jumped into small FFT right away and I won't reach home in another 3 hours.


You left it burning thru primes unattended? For hours? That's just cruel.









So P95 V28.7? It's less cruel with AVX than it used to be.


----------



## rapkct

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> You left it burning thru primes unattended? For hours? That's just cruel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So P95 V28.7? It's less cruel with AVX than it used to be.


Got into a situation where I have to leave the house immediately. As for those asking about ambient temps, I estimate it to be around 28-30C, weather in Malaysia gets pretty hot.

If it doesn't shut itself off when I got back, then good riddance.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rapkct*
> 
> Got into a situation where I have to leave the house immediately. As for those asking about ambient temps, I estimate it to be around 28-30C, weather in Malaysia gets pretty hot.
> 
> If it doesn't shut itself off when I got back, then good riddance.


Idle temps seem good for those sort of ambient temps.


----------



## rapkct

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> Idle temps seem good for those sort of ambient temps.


For reference, in a room with 20C from air-conditioning I get 29C. Better than this Pentium 4 511 which idles at 52C...

Oh well, we'll see in a couple of hours.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rapkct*
> 
> For reference, in a room with 20C from air-conditioning I get 29C. Better than this Pentium 4 511 which idles at 52C...
> 
> Oh well, we'll see in a couple of hours.


It does hit 30c plus here in Helsinki sometimes in the summer, at those times I can go over 40c idle on some cores, especially if my case fans are turned off. Idling around 10c over ambient is pretty normal, might be room for improvement with airflow, but its not indicating a major problem.


----------



## rapkct

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> It does hit 30c plus here in Helsinki sometimes in the summer, at those times I can go over 40c idle on some cores, especially if my case fans are turned off. Idling around 10c over ambient is pretty normal, might be room for improvement with airflow, but its not indicating a major problem.


True, my temps is with a fully enclosed Define R5.

EDIT: So I came back and my PC's still running. Maxed out at 92C, although I hit 88C average. My ambient temps is around 30C.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rapkct*
> 
> Got into a situation where I have to leave the house immediately. As for those asking about ambient temps, I estimate it to be around 28-30C, weather in Malaysia gets pretty hot.
> 
> If it doesn't shut itself off when I got back, then good riddance.


with 28-30c ambient 37-38c is fine.









As for stress testing temps, as MC said a cheap digital indoor / outdoor wired sensor thermometer works great. It is all explained in "Ways to Better Cooling" thread linked in my sig. 1st post is index. Click on topic of interest to read it.

I have not used Define R5, but have had Define R2 for years. By all reports it is a great case and with little work (change, add, or repositioning fans) works very well.


----------



## rapkct

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> with 28-30c ambient 37-38c is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for stress testing temps, as MC said a cheap digital indoor / outdoor wired sensor thermometer works great. It is all explained in "Ways to Better Cooling" thread linked in my sig. 1st post is index. Click on topic of interest to read it.
> 
> I have not used Define R5, but have had Define R2 for years. By all reports it is a great case and with little work (change, add, or repositioning fans) works very well.


This is my current setup:



I suppose three intakes is a little overkill?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rapkct*
> 
> This is my current setup:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose three intakes is a little overkill?


3x intakes is what I usually recommend. The front invents are quite restrictive and filters only add more restriction to airflow. Bottom vent is better, but the distance between case bottom and what it is setting on is at best about half the airflow area of what vent and PSU fans have. Which is why I recommend raising the case on blocks so it has 40-50mm clearance. All explained in "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig.

We need more case airflow than combined airflow of components. This means if GPU has 3x 90mm fans (190.8sq cm) and CPU has 1x 140mm fan (153.8sq cm) we have a total of 343sq cm total component fan area to 460sq cm of intake fan area. In CFM it's about 170cfm component to 195cfm intake. Check out " Setting up a case for optimum cooling" article for case airflow.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rapkct*
> 
> For reference, in a room with 20C from air-conditioning I get 29C. Better than this Pentium 4 511 which idles at 52C...
> 
> Oh well, we'll see in a couple of hours.


Totally not serious here, but more tongue in cheek... Oh, I know exactly how to cool those..... *thunk* this is called a cooling pot. Add some dry ice (in an acetone bath) or some liquid nitrogen and it'll stay niiiiiice and cold. My D 820 runs incredibly hot, I don't even want to know how hot the 5xx series runs  (especially when you crank 1.8V core into it *whistles innocently*)


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Totally not serious here, but more tongue in cheek... Oh, I know exactly how to cool those..... *thunk* this is called a cooling pot. Add some dry ice (in an acetone bath) or some liquid nitrogen and it'll stay niiiiiice and cold. My D 820 runs incredibly hot, I don't even want to know how hot the 5xx series runs  (especially when you crank 1.8V core into it *whistles innocently*)


And totally serious here, not tongue in cheek at all......given the factors that go into idle temps, and the variable values assigned by different boards (auto voltage, power saving states, fan curves, etc)....unless there is something really crazy, idle temps matter less to actual performance than your preference of fruit pie flavor.

i.e. - on a 4770K your idle core temp is 45C, but your temp under load (actual load....OCCT, AIDA64 CPU or CPU+FPU, etc, not "while gaming") is 65C....that idle temp means as much as saying "I like Drake's apple pie better than Hostess cherry pie".

Speaking of pies, no one made better pre-wrapped pies than Hubig's in New Orleans. I really hope they get back in business sooner rather than later, or at all.


----------



## SuspiciousGuy

Hello, I was wondering if it would be worth it to upgrade from a H5 Universal with a xf140 front fan and a xt140 rear fan to a r1 ultimate with a third fan. I have a 5820k oc to 4.3ghz @ 1.175 vcore with temperatures during real bench reaching a max of 78c and an average of 74c. Idles around 30 to 35c depending if air conditioning is on. I was wondering if a R1 ultimate would allow for more overclocking


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuspiciousGuy*
> 
> Hello, I was wondering if it would be worth it to upgrade from a H5 Universal with a xf140 front fan and a xt140 rear fan to a r1 ultimate with a third fan. I have a 5820k oc to 4.3ghz @ 1.175 vcore with temperatures during real bench reaching a max of 78c and an average of 74c. Idles around 30 to 35c depending if air conditioning is on. I was wondering if a R1 ultimate would allow for more overclocking


Adding or changing fans will help a little.
More often optimizing case airflow will help more. Topic is in "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig explain it.
R1 definitely has more cooling ability than H5.


----------



## SuspiciousGuy

Thank you for the reply and info on to improve airflow. I thinking that my pc case doesnt have that great airflow with my source 210, i think im going to pull the trigger on an upgrade to a fractal design r5 to help things out and to fit a r1 ultimate in it. I'll just keep the source 210 and H5 for any future builds


----------



## xtreemeNoob

CRYORIG R1 ULTIMATE fits inside a Corsair air 540 ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xtreemeNoob*
> 
> CRYORIG R1 ULTIMATE fits inside a Corsair air 540 ?


Yes, assuming your RAM is to more than 35mm tall so it will allow a 140mm fan on top of it.


----------



## xtreemeNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yes, assuming your RAM is to more than 35mm tall so it will allow a 140mm fan on top of it.


ram not a problem, have Lp ones,

corsair mention its limited to 170mm cooler heights and the r1 sayd it's height is 168.3mm won't it be extremely tight fit ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xtreemeNoob*
> 
> ram not a problem, have Lp ones,
> 
> corsair mention its limited to 170mm cooler heights and the r1 sayd it's height is 168.3mm won't it be extremely tight fit ?


There is no need for much if any space between cooler and case. They can even touch as long as the cooler fans do not vibrate and make noise. I had R1 in my old Fractal Design R2 with a 165mm specified CPU clearance. Had no problems with it other than having to push a little to get the side panel to latch.









Here are my measurements of R1


----------



## monmak2

I need your help fellas.









I've got the Cryorig R1 Ultimate. I was wondering if it was worth replacing the XF140's that came standard with the cooler with the Thermaltake Ring 14 High Static Pressure 140mm fan (http://amzn.com/B00WB9MLOG).

Both are static pressure fans but the XF140's are rated at 76CFM while the Riing 14's are rated at 51CFM.

Any theoretical calculations on how big of an impact this will have on temperature? I personally find the LED lighting on the Riing 14's to be more appealing.









Thanks!


----------



## Kutalion

Only thing worth putting over Cryorig fans is maybe Thermalright ones.

Do note that these fans have 105mm spacing holes (like 120mm fans), so square fans wont work.


----------



## doyll

I'm running TY-147A fans on my R1 Ultimate









Looks are biggest difference, but is a little cooler and little quieter.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monmak2*
> 
> I need your help fellas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got the Cryorig R1 Ultimate. I was wondering if it was worth replacing the XF140's that came standard with the cooler with the Thermaltake Ring 14 High Static Pressure 140mm fan (http://amzn.com/B00WB9MLOG).
> 
> Both are static pressure fans but the XF140's are rated at 76CFM while the Riing 14's are rated at 51CFM.
> 
> Any theoretical calculations on how big of an impact this will have on temperature? I personally find the LED lighting on the Riing 14's to be more appealing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


It would essentially be like running your Cryorig fans with a 1000 ram limit. I'm suRe doyll can provide an accurate number.

And this trend of labeling fans with lousy airflow asb'static pressue' fans got old really quick.


----------



## doyll

What ciarlatano said. Below are specs of stock R1 fan and others. Some I trust because they are actual testing, some because they are reputable. Riing I do not trust. But even if riing is accurate it is the lowest peforming of them all.
XF140
1300 RPM
1.44 mmH2O
76 CFM

Riing 14
1400 R.P.M
1.58 mm-H2O
51.15 CFM

NF-A15
1500rpm
1.65mm-H2O
78cfm

TY-141
1300rpm
1.59mm-H2O
74.3cfm

EK Vardar F2-140
1600rpm
1l9mm-H2O
84cfm

But even bigger problem is CFM rating is what fan flows in open air with no restriction, not in a case behind grill and filter or on a cooler. mm-H2O rating is pressure fan reaches when airflow stops .. something we definitely do not want.

We want what is inbetween. That is what a P-Q curve shows.


More info here
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22644574


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What ciarlatano said. Below are specs of stock R1 fan and others. Some I trust because they are actual testing, some because they are reputable. Riing I do not trust. But even if riing is accurate it is the lowest peforming of them all.


Oh, come on, now....you act like Tt specs have been exaggerated in the past.....








I would feel secure thinking that the Riing can produce 40cfm if testing in the same manner as the XF140.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Oh, come on, now....you act like Tt specs have been exaggerated in the past.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would feel secure thinking that the Riing can produce 40cfm if testing in the same manner as the XF140.


I was giving Tt the benefit of the doubt .. after all almost any 140mm 1300-1600rpm fans has 50% more rated airflow than the riing.







With a rated 51cfm, your 40cfm (less than 20% drop in actual use) seems rather high. I would think actual airflow through a cooler would be 30-50% below rated free-air cfm .. and that's assuming the rated spec is accurate.









That is only a guess as I don't have the facilities or data showing what cooler resistance is compared to open air.


----------



## Vito89

Hello Everyone!

I was wondering if any one of you has had a bad experience with Cryorig customer service? I bought an H5 Universal cooler more or less a month ago and one of the screw pillars in the box has a defective threading which means that I cannot mount the cooler. I asked Cryorig if I could receive a replacement screw pillar and at first they replied very quickly. However, I have been waiting for three weeks and I have not received the part yet. Moreover, they are not replying to my emails anymore and I had to resort to message them on Facebook.

Apparently they sent the item the first time (I am not sure where from) and then they tried again from Germany, but as I said I have not received anything. Do you know if they have a phone number I can call? It is ridiculous that I have to give a negative feedback and that I cannot recommend a company because they are unable to send me a screw!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vito89*
> 
> Hello Everyone!
> 
> I was wondering if any one of you has had a bad experience with Cryorig customer service? I bought an H5 Universal cooler more or less a month ago and one of the screw pillars in the box has a defective threading which means that I cannot mount the cooler. I asked Cryorig if I could receive a replacement screw pillar and at first they replied very quickly. However, I have been waiting for three weeks and I have not received the part yet. Moreover, they are not replying to my emails anymore and I had to resort to message them on Facebook.
> 
> Apparently they sent the item the first time (I am not sure where from) and then they tried again from Germany, but as I said I have not received anything. Do you know if they have a phone number I can call? It is ridiculous that I have to give a negative feedback and that I cannot recommend a company because they are unable to send me a screw!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I have had no problems at all with Cryorig customer support.

But I can understand their hesitation after sending the needed parts to you twice from different sources and you not receiving either of them.


----------



## Vito89

I can understand the hesitation, but I was never provided with a tracking code or a despatch confirmation. I am obviously not joking about this, I just need one single screw and I am even willing to pay for it if the worse comes to the worst.

I tried to contact various sellers but apparently they cannot order this part and they don't sell it as a spare part. My only solution is Cryorig, unless someone here is willing to send me a screw!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vito89*
> 
> I can understand the hesitation, but I was never provided with a tracking code or a despatch confirmation. I am obviously not joking about this, I just need one single screw and I am even willing to pay for it if the worse comes to the worst.
> 
> I tried to contact various sellers but apparently they cannot order this part and they don't sell it as a spare part. My only solution is Cryorig, unless someone here is willing to send me a screw!


When I had a similar problem Cryorig just mailed me the the needed screws. No tracking or conformation. I"m assuming they did the same for you. Maybe they are caught in your country's customs and duty department?


----------



## Vito89

Yes, maybe it's because of customs. I am in the UK. However, they said that the batch from Germany would arrive this week, but it hasn't so I don't really understand what's going on. I am willing to pay for them if only I could find someone selling them.


----------



## doyll

I don't have any to sell, but could steal one off of one I'm not using at the moment and loan it to you. Send it to you tomorrow.
I'm in south Devon.


----------



## Steve-S

Hi @Vito89 our agent in Germany has sent in the mail out confirmation on the 5th of October. Are you sure you gave us the right address? I will ask for a tracking number of any kind.


----------



## Steve-S

Hi @doyll

If you can send an extra piece over that would be great! I'll try to send an extra kit to you, mailing stuff to you hasn't faced any problems.


----------



## Vito89

Hello @Steve-S, I have just sent you a PM with my address, could you please confirm that this is the one used by your agent? Thanks a lot.

And @doyll, if you could do what @Steve-S suggested, that would be great!!!


----------



## d0mini

I have the Cryorig H5 in my 380t case on a VII Impact motherboard with 2 Corsair SP120s in push/pull. It's a tight squeeze, but it manages to fit, and cools my 4790k better than my H75 used to.









Getting acceptable temps (never exceeds 85*C with x264 or in games) @4.6GHz, 1.23v.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vito89*
> 
> Hello @Steve-S, I have just sent you a PM with my address, could you please confirm that this is the one used by your agent? Thanks a lot.
> 
> And @doyll, if you could do what @Steve-S suggested, that would be great!!!


PM me your details and I"ll get it posted 1st class With any luck you will have it tomorrow.


----------



## doyll

Got it! Ready to post. On it's way today.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> I have the Cryorig H5 in my 380t case on a VII Impact motherboard with 2 Corsair SP120s in push/pull. It's a tight squeeze, but it manages to fit, and cools my 4790k better than my H75 used to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting acceptable temps (never exceeds 85*C with x264 or in games) @4.6GHz, 1.23v.


Just curious, why did you choose SP120 fans?


----------



## Vito89

@doyll you are a life saver!


----------



## doyll

Just helping out a fellow Cryorig fan (no pun intended).









Also shows how good Cryorig customer support is.









Let us know how it works out for you.


----------



## Vito89

@doyll your screw has arrived and I finally mounted the cooler! I ran a quick test with Prime 95 on my stock 4670k with some Gelid GC-Extreme and a Noctua NF-P14s PWM 1500. Temperatures in idle are around 22-23 and under stress with Small FFT reached a maximum of 69-67-67-62 in about 10 minutes. I think I have a pretty hot CPU anyway. Well, overall the temperatures dropped 10 degrees in idle and 30 to 38 under stress compared to the standard cooler.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vito89*
> 
> @doyll your screw has arrived and I finally mounted the cooler! I ran a quick test with Prime 95 on my stock 4670k with some Gelid GC-Extreme and a Noctua NF-P14s PWM 1500. Temperatures in idle are around 22-23 and under stress with Small FFT reached a maximum of 69-67-67-62 in about 10 minutes. I think I have a pretty hot CPU anyway. Well, overall the temperatures dropped 10 degrees in idle and 30 to 38 under stress compared to the standard cooler.


Great news!








How long did you run the test? My experience is with optimized case airflow the temps peak in 2-3 minutes. If temps continue to slowly climb higher it is often because the airflow going to cooler intake is being heated up by heated exhaust air that is not flowing out of case.


----------



## Vito89

@doyll I ran the test for about 10 minutes and my setup at the moment is far, far from ideal! I am in the process of choosing a new case and I currently have a Zalman T4 with no side panel and the Cryorig slim fan 140mm as intake and the 92mm zalman fan as exhaust. However, I have just re-run the test and temperatures are 10 degrees higher than this morning, which doesn't make much sense at all. I either have a very bad cpu, or I don't know. I am going to try Intel burn test now.


----------



## Vito89

Ok, I ran the tests again and I noticed something weird. Under stress all the 4 cores go up to 3.8Ghz, which is the turbo speed of my 4670k, but, correct me if I'm wrong, they shouldn't go that far when working all 4 at the same time.

However, these are the maximum temperatures I noted at the current settings:

Intel burn test Standard, 70-68-68-64
Intel burn test Maximum (only 3 times), 78-75-73-70
Prime 95 Small FFT, 81-80-76-72

I am going to dig into the bios and A-tuning software for my Asrock motherboard and I'll keep you posted. In the meanwhile if anyone has any suggestions about what to do, please let me know because I have never overclocked a CPU.


----------



## Vito89

It's me again, sorry about the high number of posts. I found out that I had multi core enhancement enabled. I disabled it and now all four cores run at 3.6ghz together, which keeps the temperatures between 60 and 69 degrees with Cryorig H5 + Noctua NF-P14s PWM 1500 + Gelid GC-Extreme when I run Prime95 Smal FFT. However temperatures with Standard Intel burn test are about 10 degrees cooler.


----------



## doyll

In normal use I would want temps to be below 70c. Test temps may be much higher. It all depends on what your maximum load is normal use. Most people never use there CPUs at 100% unless they encode videos or something similar. My own uses do put 100% so I keep my around 70c when stress testing because when encoding I'm using all cores at 100%, soemtimes for hours at a time. My wife's system hit's 80c when stress testing but in normal use she never get it above 55-60c.


----------



## Shneiky

So it has been what - almost an year since I am on my R1 Ultimate - performance is still going strong. Just finished a project on which I had not enough computing power on the HP WS with an E5 2650v2 so my home computer was crunching 24/7 for weeks. Even with running only a single fan in the mid of the R1 - took it like a champ.

Though I am again experiencing problems with the XF140s. For the past 2 months I have been running the R1 mounted fan pointing up towards the top exhaust. This way I could turn off my 2 top be quiet! fans for even less noise. (I live in a place with very very low ambient noise and I am a noise freak - specially after 20-30 hours of lighting-rendering-compositing etc.).

The problem is that when the XF140 is horizontal and not vertical - it vibrates very heavily. It took me 2 months to realize (didn't even check before). So to check this - I took the 2nd XF140 - plugged it to the fan controller and run it out of the case. When I hold it vertically - it good - the moment when I flip it horizontally it starts vibrating and a slight clicking noise appears.

Now I do run the XF140 currently on the cooler on a NZXT Sentry Mix 2. My motherboard could not get the XFs under 780 and 770 RPM for each fan respectively. Using the fan controller did tune them down by around 70-80 RPM each - which considering the insanely high 700 RPM idle is a big deal in the noise department. Plugging the Fan into the PWM of the motherboard does remove the clicking sound, but not the vibration and the fan runs at the higher RPM.

So I took the cooler out and mounted it with fans pointing to the back.

Sigh. I was considering moving to a new case with a new build and replacing the 5x 120 mm be quiet! fans I have with 5x 140mm something, but that wont be Cryorig I guess. I love the cooler, I love the fans, how they look, how they perform, but they are just too brutal. Guess I am just going to shell out for a Phanteks to replace the XF and deal with it.


----------



## doyll

@Shneiky
Always nice to get long term use reviews like this. I do agree, as great as Cryorig and fans are, the fan is not as great as the cooler.









If you decide to get a new case, please let me know what you are looking at and what fans you are considering.


----------



## Shneiky

@doyll,
Thank you for the reply.

I am still sitting on my Z77+2700K inside a HAF 912+, albeit heavily modded 912. I can maybe post some pictures later, but right now its raining and the overcast sky does not give enough light to take a descent picture. I made more than 120 tests using V-Ray last week and my 4.2 GHz (daily) OC on the 2700K provides 74% to 79% of the render performance of a 8 core Xeon E5 2650v2 clocked at 3.0 GHz from 2.6. Since I had a bachelor in computer sciences and then immediately started a bachelor in Visual Effects - I have not had a proper job in years. Our latest project qualifies for few VFX student awards, so I would be thinking of an upgrade if some "free money" falls out of the sky. Main reason for upgrading is the RAM. I have 4x4 GBs sticks from 2011 and I just can't bring myself to get a 4x8 kit for 200 EUR knowing that if I get some finances I might be able to go to x99 with a 5820K and 32 GBs of RAM (the kits are around 215 EUR) with the option for 64. Anyway that was a bit off topic.

The move I am considering is a move to an EVGA X99 FTW with a 5820K, keeping my GTX 650 TI (I seriously don't use that much GPU power) and cramming it in a Phanteks Enthoo Pro M (reason for choosing the M is due to the smaller size almost the same as the HAF - fits easier in a suitcase, I changed countries few times and my current HAF has traveled more than 5000 km), since it can get E-ATX up to 264 mm wide, while my current HAF 912 can't. I want to keep the R1 Ultimate in all cases. The Enthoo Pro M can get dual 140 mm front and top, but not triple 120mm because I want to use the bay. Also it has 140 mm exhaust.

The fans I am considering are:

140 mm be quiet! Silent Wings 2 (or 3 if they get released soon as retail and not only used in PSUs)

140 mm Phanteks from the recently announced BBK

I was even thinking of XF140s since they look so sexy, but the 700 RPM idle with 4-5 fans in a system is going to be sounding like a bee hive.

maybe Noctuas - but the price is a killer for the Industrial ones and the 140 mm Redux don't go lower than 700 rpm unless you get the PWM version, but honestly I would prefer not go Noctua

Forgot to add the Noiseblocker PK-PS, since they can go down to 400 rpm, but the price is 21 EUR without shipping. I never had any experience with Noiseblocker products before.

My main plan is to get 2 140mm intakes, 1 rear 140 mm exhaust and 1 (or 2) 140 mm top exhausts. I am still strongly considering be quiet!, since they are at a descent price and go down to 500 RPM. (I currently live in NL, close to Germany so be quiet! is generally cheaper). The Phanteks fans do go down to 600 RPM as far as I know. The Noctua ones that I found that go down to 300 RPM are 34 EUR per piece - which is the price of 2 be quiet! fans, so that is a no-no.

Generally I find any fan at 500 rpm or higher noisy. I have very very low ambient noise in my home and the computer is on top of my desk and 40 cm away from my ears.

Any advice would be appreciated.

P.S If I get the Enthoo Pro M - I will paint the window to look like a solid panel and get some noise absorbing foam kit from be quiet! - which I can find for 20 EUR - a lot cheaper than the available other brands.


----------



## doyll

Sense this is the Cryorig thread, how about starting a new thread and we can discuss it. I have some ideas to keep costs down.


----------



## Shneiky

I definitely agree, I did go a lot off topic there, sorry about that.

At least for now - back to the R1 and the XF140.

I know you have been running an R1 with TY-147A (judging from a picture I saw, not entirely certain though). I don't have TY-147A available anywhere in NL. Closest place I can get 1 is Germany, but the friend I have that can get the delivery is rather far away, so that is not a good option.

What about a Phanteks fan on the R1? Did you perform any test by any chance?


----------



## doyll

Sorry, I have not. The only ones that would fit are HP and HP II. I have HP but not HP II but am using / testing other coolers at the moment with a backlog of others (fans and coolers) to evaluate. I can say they do not idle down as low as 147A does.


----------



## Shneiky

I agree with you. Even the spec sheet says 300 RPM for the 147A vs 600 for the Phanteks.

How would you describe, in your personal opinion, the noise profile of the HP I / II compared to the XF140?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> I agree with you. Even the spec sheet says 300 RPM for the 147A vs 600 for the Phanteks.
> 
> How would you describe, in your personal opinion, the noise profile of the HP I / II compared to the XF140?


Again, sorry. I have not compared them.


----------



## therealjustin

Does anyone use the R1 Ultimate with a Gigabyte Z170 Gaming 7? Will it cover the first two RAM slot making dual channel impossible? I will be using G.Skill Ripjaw V's.

I know the Universal will work but I really prefer the Ultimate


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *therealjustin*
> 
> Does anyone use the R1 Ultimate with a Gigabyte Z170 Gaming 7? Will it cover the first two RAM slot making dual channel impossible? I will be using G.Skill Ripjaw V's.
> 
> I know the Universal will work but I really prefer the Ultimate


Front of fan will be over middle of second slot.
Mobo has 53mm center CPU to near side of RAM socket.
R1 Ultimate is 66.5mm center CPU to front of fan.
Ripjaws V are 42mm tall .. which is 38mm above top of CPU. If your case has 179mm CPU clearance you could just fit the fan on top of RAM and still put side cover on. Top of front fan would be about 12mm above top of cooler.


R1 Universal is 48.5mm leaving you 4.5mm clearance.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *therealjustin*
> 
> Does anyone use the R1 Ultimate with a Gigabyte Z170 Gaming 7? Will it cover the first two RAM slot making dual channel impossible? I will be using G.Skill Ripjaw V's.
> 
> I know the Universal will work but I really prefer the Ultimate


Don't let the word "Ultimate" in the R1 make you think that it is better than the R1 Universal. The only difference between the two is that the universal has a slim fan and that it is compatible with any ram. If I were you I would go with the R1 universal and save yourself the headache trying to find ram that will fit under the Ultimate. just my $.02


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> Don't let the word "Ultimate" in the R1 make you think that it is better than the R1 Universal. The only difference between the two is that the universal has a slim fan and that it is compatible with any ram. If I were you I would go with the R1 universal and save yourself the headache trying to find ram that will fit under the Ultimate. just my $.02


There are several physical differences between the Universal and Ultimate, but front fan is the one that makes most of the difference in performance. The back finpack and pipes ares set back 3mm and front finpack and pipes are set back 4.5mm. This means the Universal's middle fan is closer to the front finpack than the Ultimates. Oh!, and the shrouds are different colors too.


----------



## Shneiky

I just found this:

http://www.thermalright.com/html/products/cpu_cooler/machox2.html

I wonder will the legendary Macho, now doubled, come close to the R1?

(Maybe doyll is already testing one).

Meanwhile, I am rigging some Shadow Wings 2 into my R1 Ultimate. Will post benches when I finish.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> There are several physical differences between the Universal and Ultimate, but front fan is the one that makes most of the difference in performance. The back finpack and pipes ares set back 3mm and front finpack and pipes are set back 4.5mm. This means the Universal's middle fan is closer to the front finpack than the Ultimates. Oh!, and the shrouds are different colors too.


Well, my R1 Universal with 3 fans is great and can handle a 4.7ghz at 1.37v overclock like a champ , , , A friend of mine got the ultimate and they are both great coolers. But I would take the universal over the ultimate any day because there are no problems with ram compatibility. . .because I like ram with tall heat spreaders. Here are some pics of both systems, mine is the one with the Universal, he decided to get an R1 when my R1 wiped the floor with his h100i lol all while being more silent.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> Well, my R1 Universal with 3 fans is great and can handle a 4.7ghz at 1.37v overclock like a champ , , , A friend of mine got the ultimate and they are both great coolers. But I would take the universal over the ultimate any day because there are no problems with ram compatibility. . .because I like ram with tall heat spreaders. Here are some pics of both systems, mine is the one with the Universal, he decided to get an R1 when my R1 wiped the floor with his h100i lol all while being more silent.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build!
Yeah, CLCs are a joke.

I agree, R1 Universal is simply more 'universal'.








R1 Ultimate and R1 Universal perform the same with same fans, so getting Universal and a 2nd XF140 while costing a little more gives way more flexibility. To me coolers are a long term investment, so fitting on most any platform I might have is a definite advantage.
.
Have you tried removing the rear exhaust fan? Even better, cut the rear exhaust vent out as big as possible and maybe build a shroud from cooler to back of case.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22919853


----------



## therealjustin

Thank you for the excellent info! R1 Universal it is then.

I wanted the Ultimate for the color mostly but I just discovered Customod's


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *therealjustin*
> 
> Thank you for the excellent info! R1 Universal it is then.
> 
> I wanted the Ultimate for the color mostly but I just discovered Customod's


A black rattle-can works too.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice build!
> Yeah, CLCs are a joke.


The problem being that the joke is on the consumer....


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice build!
> Yeah, CLCs are a joke.
> 
> I agree, R1 Universal is simply more 'universal'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> R1 Ultimate and R1 Universal perform the same with same fans, so getting Universal and a 2nd XF140 while costing a little more gives way more flexibility. To me coolers are a long term investment, so fitting on most any platform I might have is a definite advantage.
> .
> Have you tried removing the rear exhaust fan? Even better, cut the rear exhaust vent out as big as possible and maybe build a shroud from cooler to back of case.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22919853


I'll try making an air duct from cooler to the back of the case. . . I din't know that could be done, I'll add it to the list of case mods I've yet to do.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> I'll try making an air duct from cooler to the back of the case. . . I din't know that could be done, I'll add it to the list of case mods I've yet to do.


I do ducts and dividers quite often. Divider between top of GPU and CPU to keep GPU heated exhaust air away form CPU cooler, divider between GPU fans and side of case to keep keep heated exhaust from circling back into intakes, duct from case intakes to GPU fans. All to keep cool and heated air separated and / or lower noise.


----------



## Shneiky

So I managed it somehow... Though what it has lost in elegance with the BQ fans, it kind of looks a bit more badass now.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Had to cut the a piece of the fan clip's end, so it does not hit the blade.

Now a single XF140 at lowest possible RPM gave me 57C at the warmest core at a 20C room with dual intake, dual top exhaust and single rear exhaust be quiet! fans at 500 rpm. Without the top exhausts that I used to clip to the R1 ultimate - the XF140 was scoring 59.

Now the dual 120mm Silent Wings2 at 800 RPM deliver 64C at the warmest core at 21C ambient. Now put 1-2 degrees due to my sloppy paste application this time and maybe the tiny dust film and there you have it. Dual 120 mm Silent Wings delivering 3 C less performance at the fraction of the noise of the XF140. And the heatsink does not vibrate anymore.

The noise is now so significantly lower, that I can hear a faint resonance. I can't identify from where it comes exactly. I will wait till 2-3 AM when things are all quiet and try and check each component and each fan.

Just for extra information - I had a check of the ambient noise in the room - 19 db (which is the lowest threshold of the device i was given) in the night. So I guess it is even lower.

But I guess I will be searching for a singe 140mm fan replacement for the XF. The dual 120mm Silent Wings2 do not appear to be that effective, since they don't cool off the two most outer heat pipes very well.


----------



## Vito89

Hello everyone!

I have just tried testing my H5 Universal with the standard slim fan, a Noctua Redux 1500 140mm and a Noctua Industrial 2000rpm 140mm. To my surprise, the slim Cryorig fan was only a couple of degrees hotter than the Noctuas. What was also weird is that the two Noctua had the same cooling power, despite the fact that one has higher rpms and static pressure.

However, both the Cryorig and the Noctua industrial had a weird buzzing at lower speeds, definitely more noticeable on the Noctua. Overall, they are all great, but I will definitely keep my Noctua redux as it is so quiet and powerful. Not to mention that the grey colour goes perfectly with the H5 Universal.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vito89*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> 
> I have just tried testing my H5 Universal with the standard slim fan, a Noctua Redux 1500 140mm and a Noctua Industrial 2000rpm 140mm. To my surprise, the slim Cryorig fan was only a couple of degrees hotter than the Noctuas. What was also weird is that the two Noctua had the same cooling power, despite the fact that one has higher rpms and static pressure.
> 
> However, both the Cryorig and the Noctua industrial had a weird buzzing at lower speeds, definitely more noticeable on the Noctua. Overall, they are all great, but I will definitely keep my Noctua redux as it is so quiet and powerful. Not to mention that the grey colour goes perfectly with the H5 Universal.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks!








+rep
Always nice to know these sort of things.

Were you able to monitor cooler intake air temperature? Just curious if it changed. It often does with different cooler fan that move differnt amounts of air. This is what I use to monitor cooler intake air temp.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22319171


----------



## Vito89

@doyll unfortunately I did not monitor intake air temperature, but the only fan working in the case when I tested them was the cpu fan.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vito89*
> 
> @doyll unfortunately I did not monitor intake air temperature, but the only fan working in the case when I tested them was the cpu fan.


Wow! .. Just .. Wow!
No case fans at all?
No GPU cooler fans either?

What is your system?


----------



## Shneiky

@doyll,

I just found a place that supplies TY-147As and will ship them for a reasonable price. Can you share benches of comparison between the Cryorig fans and the TYs on the R1 Ultimate, or should I PM you for those. Any help is much appreciated.


----------



## Vito89

@doyll Yep, no fans at all. Apart from the PSU one which is bottom mounted though. There was no GPU mounted and the parts were:

4670k at stock speed and @4.2Ghz
Asrock z87m Extreme4
Be Quiet Straight Power 580w

The case was a cheap Zalman Z4 without side panel. However it was very weird that all three fans gave similar results. Is it because there were no other fans, or because I removed the side panel?


----------



## doyll

Probably a combination of both no side panel and no case fans. I've never tried analyzing airflow in that sort of setup.


----------



## ruffhi

Does Cryorig make non-PWM fans? I ask because I want to use them as my case fan but hook them up to a fan controller that uses voltage to control RPMs. Typically, fan controllers and PWM fans don't play nice together.

If they don't, I guess I could cut the PWM wire.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Does Cryorig make non-PWM fans? I ask because I want to use them as my case fan but hook them up to a fan controller that uses voltage to control RPMs. Typically, fan controllers and PWM fans don't play nice together.
> 
> If they don't, I guess I could cut the PWM wire.


Cryrig's fans have no issues being controlled by voltage. There is never a need to cut the PWM wire - it isn't connected to anything on a voltage regulated header.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Cryrig's fans have no issues being controlled by voltage. There is never a need to cut the PWM wire - it isn't connected to anything on a voltage regulated header.


I'll add that many 4-pin headers are only 3-pin variable voltage and the 4th-pin is not hooked to anything.


----------



## ruffhi

Thanks for the info guys. One last Q ... which is the better radiator fan? The silent, balanced or performance?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thanks for the info guys. One last Q ... which is the better radiator fan? The silent, balanced or performance?


The Performance would be the best of the three for a radiator application.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thanks for the info guys. One last Q ... which is the better radiator fan? The silent, balanced or performance?


At the same fan speed, they will perform the same. The only difference between the three are the ranges of operation with the silent having a lower min/max rated RPM compared to the balanced which in turn has the same compared to the performance edition. If you have PWM control at your disposal, go with the performance version and set up a custom fan curve.


----------



## therealjustin

Does anyone else have a problem with the black paint on the fins flaking off of the R1 Universal? It seems way to fragile and I can't imagine what it would look like after a cleaning. I ordered from Newegg and I noticed that the box flaps were sticking out so I'm wondering if I received a return or not. Regardless, I'm not impressed.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *therealjustin*
> 
> Does anyone else have a problem with the black paint on the fins flaking off of the R1 Universal? It seems way to fragile and I can't imagine what it would look like after a cleaning. I ordered from Newegg and I noticed that the box flaps were sticking out so I'm wondering if I received a return or not. Regardless, I'm not impressed.


I've handled 4 R1s and none has had flaking paint like you're describing. I would suggest returning it and getting another one. Probably got opened along the way and someone/something messed it up.


----------



## doyll

All of the Cryorig coolers I've see have been in perfect condition.

If it's only a couple of little silver spots, a black felt marker hides them very well.

It seems Newegg sends out opened box products as new. I'm always suspect of opened boxes. Manufacturer and distributors sell new sealed boxes while opened boxes and returns are sold as open box or returned products.


----------



## ruffhi

You have to love these Cryorig guys. They provide some great pictures of their stuff and also a link so that you can download them all in one go ... and multiple resolutions too.

But ... there is one picture of their fan that I can't seem to find ... a picture showing how long their fan cable is. Does anyone have such a picture? NB B12-2 fan's cable is about 10mm long (I kid you not) and they provide two extension cables. How long is Cryorig's fan cable?

Here is what I could find quickly with google ... a dutch review and vid showing a cable about 200mm long. Does that look right?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *therealjustin*
> 
> Does anyone else have a problem with the black paint on the fins flaking off of the R1 Universal? It seems way to fragile and I can't imagine what it would look like after a cleaning. I ordered from Newegg and I noticed that the box flaps were sticking out so I'm wondering if I received a return or not. Regardless, I'm not impressed.


I have installed and removed my R1 20+ times for benchmarking, and it still looks exactly as it did first time out of the box. It definitely sounds like you got an open box item and that it was mishandled. I would request an exchange.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have installed and removed my R1 20+ times for benchmarking, and it still looks exactly as it did first time out of the box. It definitely sounds like you got an open box item and that it was mishandled. I would request an exchange.


How are the screws holding up? I ask mainly because my current air cooling for the benching rig is starting to wear out, not to mention looks just a tad too much like Frankenstein's monster (threaded rods to hold things in place, mismatched fans, etc), and the screws my Frio Advanced are definitely showing the wear (they'll probably last only a few more mounts I figure).... And an R1 would go rather nicely on there (even though my P5E is covered in an array of painter's masking tape, LET, and armaflex)


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> How are the screws holding up? I ask mainly because my current air cooling for the benching rig is starting to wear out, not to mention looks just a tad too much like Frankenstein's monster (threaded rods to hold things in place, mismatched fans, etc), and the screws my Frio Advanced are definitely showing the wear (they'll probably last only a few more mounts I figure).... And an R1 would go rather nicely on there (even though my P5E is covered in an array of painter's masking tape, LET, and armaflex)


No issues with the screws, and my R1 actually has the thinner first gen mounting kit. My H5 has the new kit and it has held up perfectly through 20+ mounts also. The material quality of all of the kit components is excellent.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No issues with the screws, and my R1 actually has the thinner first gen mounting kit. My H5 has the new kit and it has held up perfectly through 20+ mounts also. The material quality of all of the kit components is excellent.


Definitely good news. Doubly so because LGA 775 is supported.


----------



## Luckael

Sharing my R1


----------



## Shneiky

Got the TY-147As on the R1. They perform 1C worse - in my case. Though the TYs has different noise - a much more bearable one. The turbulent sound from the Cryorig fans is gone. There is a slight hum at higher RPM, like 650 RPM+, but it is much more bearable than the turbulent noise of the XF140. All in all - they are rather equal fans, TY have an edge in silence, XF has an edge in performance. Though I am all up for silence. The 300 idle RPM of the TY is a godsend. Thanks to @doyll for the recommendation.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> Got the TY-147As on the R1. They perform 1C worse - in my case. Though the TYs has different noise - a much more bearable one. The turbulent sound from the Cryorig fans is gone. There is a slight hum at higher RPM, like 650 RPM+, but it is much more bearable than the turbulent noise of the XF140. All in all - they are rather equal fans, TY have an edge in silence, XF has an edge in performance. Though I am all up for silence. The 300 idle RPM of the TY is a godsend. Thanks to @doyll for the recommendation.


Thanks for the report. +rep









Is that running at same rpm? TY-147A rpm curve is lower up to about 30% - 85% PWM speed from 300rpm - 1000rpm then ramps up; aggressively to 1300rpm at aobut 95% PWM. I need to do a graph of XF140 some time, Here is TY-140 series PWM/rpm curve.


----------



## Kutalion

Here's my R1, since sharing is caring








performs brilliantly on X99, much better than on 1150.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Here's my R1, since sharing is caring
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> performs brilliantly on X99, much better than on 1150.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice! The black & white make a nice look. Wonder what white cooler shrouds or white fan housing would look like? I think both would be too much white, but one or the other ...

Here's Cryorig link to play with mobo and R1 shroud colors
http://www.cryorig.com/customod_r1.php


----------



## Kutalion

Yeah, either of those would go great with the theme, im somehow more onto white frame of fans with black impellers as a best mix.
But i'll be damned if i ever change the best looking fans ever







so customod it is


----------



## SubZeroS3




----------



## Shneiky

@doyll,

I will post full details later. Need to fix my excel charts and my pen and paper notes. I did always compare the fans based on their actual RPM and not their % of PWM range.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> @doyll,
> 
> I will post full details later. Need to fix my excel charts and my pen and paper notes. I did always compare the fans based on their actual RPM and not their % of PWM range.


Look forward to seeing it









I only asked because TY-147A runs about half the speed to % PWM as most other fans do.


----------



## monmak2

Guess I'll post mine as well.


----------



## Kutalion

Red looks awesome!
Just that orientation bugging me to boot.


----------



## Shneiky

@monmak2,

Sadly, the R1 Ultimate performs around 3C worse in vertical, rather than horizontal position - based off of my tests.


----------



## Shneiky

@doyll,

Here is the RPM to PWM signal curve for single and dual configs. I used the Y splitter from the R1 in both occasions. I am composing the temps data right now. Will make a ""Review" thread sometime soon - I want to get some pictures.



There are some issues with the R1 and PWM on many boards. It does not work well on my ASRock. I have a forum member on Tom's Hardware asking me how to get his R1 fans under 800 on his Asus motherboard and we are struggling. Also Steve-S mentioned that the controller on the XF-140s has some issues on certain boards.

There is no way for me to get the R1 fans under 1000 RPM using normal settings. These were the same settings that I used on my 212 Evo and it gave me full range (600 to 2000). It also has no issues with be quiet! fans and gets them from their lowest to their highest speed.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> @doyll,
> 
> Here is the RPM to PWM signal curve for single and dual configs. I used the Y splitter from the R1 in both occasions. I am composing the temps data right now. Will make a ""Review" thread sometime soon - I want to get some pictures.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are some issues with the R1 and PWM on many boards. It does not work well on my ASRock. I have a forum member on Tom's Hardware asking me how to get his R1 fans under 800 on his Asus motherboard and we are struggling. Also Steve-S mentioned that the controller on the XF-140s has some issues on certain boards.
> 
> There is no way for me to get the R1 fans under 1000 RPM using normal settings. These were the same settings that I used on my 212 Evo and it gave me full range (600 to 2000). It also has no issues with be quiet! fans and gets them from their lowest to their highest speed.


Thanks!









I just ran open air PWM / rpm on XF140 or XT140. Here is graph of both with TY-147 & TY-147A


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> @monmak2,
> 
> Sadly, the R1 Ultimate performs around 3C worse in vertical, rather than horizontal position - based off of my tests.


Is it actually cooler performance difference or the airflow to cooler being different? Like airflow to cooler is different temperature or not same volume.

Could we see your test data please?


----------



## Shneiky

I highly doubt the airflow was the difference or either the temperature. I do not have extensive data, but I will post my findings.

This is my current set-up (also the set up I used for the Ty-147A vs XF140 benchmark). It is different then the set up I used before with the horizontal and vertical mount. And yes - that is fully black painted Ty-147A in the front right now. Main thing is that it is missing the top-front fan.



In this image you see the insides of my HAF 912. Drive cage removed, dual 500-800 RPM Shadow Wings (same blade design as Silent Wings 2, but no PWM, only soft mounting on the frame and different RPM range and 5 EUR cheaper)120 mm fans, and dual Silent Wings 2 800-1500 RPM as rear and top-rear exhaust. I run slightly negative pressure inside the case. Does provide better cooling by 3C and also, cooler VRMs.

What I did when testing the horizontal mount (fans facing forward-to-back) was having 1x500 RPM as top-front and 2x800 as rear and rear-back. Running 1 XF140.

What I did when testing the vertical mount (fans facing bottom to top) was having 1x500 RPM as rear and 2x800 as front-top and back-top - thus increasing the suction from the top. Running 1 XF140. As my post from few pages ago - the XF140 exhibited heavy vibration when it is was oriented bottom-to-top.

The moment when I reoriented the R1 horizontally again (fans facing forward-to-back) temps fell by 3C and the XF stopped vibrating. Just to make sure I reseated vertical and then horizontal again - same result. I would do it again, but I am out of the stock thermal compound the R1 came with and the only other thing I have is MX-4 which does perform (in my experience) worse , because it is much more "liquid".

Now, if you remember some of my old posts - the temps are not comparable, because my OC profile changed and now I run the CPU 0.02 V higher due to stability issues in cross-load.

The only other significant heat generating component I have is a GTX 650 Ti. Which in a +20 C room idles at at 25 C.So as you see - I have the video card in the 3rd slot to give some breeding room. It has always been there to give some extra space to the CPU cooler. Video card is not that important to me to be honest - since most of my VFX work relies solely on CPU.

The side 140mm opening of the HAF was always left open, so in both cases air ran freely.

I don't really know if my finding are what I believe they are, but the signs are there. A lot of coolers don't like to swap their orientation - heatpipes and the vapor liquid inside is supposed to work with gravity - and laying the heapipes flat does not help the case.

Please, feel free to correct my logic if I am mistaken at any point. Would like to learn something.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> I highly doubt the airflow was the difference or either the temperature. I do not have extensive data, but I will post my findings.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This is my current set-up (also the set up I used for the Ty-147A vs XF140 benchmark). It is different then the set up I used before with the horizontal and vertical mount. And yes - that is fully black painted Ty-147A in the front right now. Main thing is that it is missing the top-front fan.
> 
> 
> 
> In this image you see the insides of my HAF 912. Drive cage removed, dual 500-800 RPM Shadow Wings (same blade design as Silent Wings 2, but no PWM, only soft mounting on the frame and different RPM range and 5 EUR cheaper)120 mm fans, and dual Silent Wings 2 800-1500 RPM as rear and top-rear exhaust. I run slightly negative pressure inside the case. Does provide better cooling by 3C and also, cooler VRMs.
> 
> What I did when testing the horizontal mount (fans facing forward-to-back) was having 1x500 RPM as top-front and 2x800 as rear and rear-back. Running 1 XF140.
> 
> What I did when testing the vertical mount (fans facing bottom to top) was having 1x500 RPM as rear and 2x800 as front-top and back-top - thus increasing the suction from the top. Running 1 XF140. As my post from few pages ago - the XF140 exhibited heavy vibration when it is was oriented bottom-to-top.
> 
> The moment when I reoriented the R1 horizontally again (fans facing forward-to-back) temps fell by 3C and the XF stopped vibrating. Just to make sure I reseated vertical and then horizontal again - same result. I would do it again, but I am out of the stock thermal compound the R1 came with and the only other thing I have is MX-4 which does perform (in my experience) worse , because it is much more "liquid".
> 
> Now, if you remember some of my old posts - the temps are not comparable, because my OC profile changed and now I run the CPU 0.02 V higher due to stability issues in cross-load.
> 
> The only other significant heat generating component I have is a GTX 650 Ti. Which in a +20 C room idles at at 25 C.So as you see - I have the video card in the 3rd slot to give some breeding room. It has always been there to give some extra space to the CPU cooler. Video card is not that important to me to be honest - since most of my VFX work relies solely on CPU.
> 
> The side 140mm opening of the HAF was always left open, so in both cases air ran freely.
> 
> I don't really know if my finding are what I believe they are, but the signs are there. A lot of coolers don't like to swap their orientation - heatpipes and the vapor liquid inside is supposed to work with gravity - and laying the heapipes flat does not help the case.
> 
> 
> Please, feel free to correct my logic if I am mistaken at any point. Would like to learn something.


I do not know if your are correct or not. I always monitor cooler intake air temp when testing to be able to rule out the possibility of air temperature differences .. and if I'm not sure the fans are getting enough airflow I will monitor cooler exhaust temps too. If cooler intake fan cannot move as much air through the cooler in one orientation, the temperature differential between cooler intake and exhaust will change accordingly. This is all I use to monitor air temps; simple and low cost.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22319171

Most modern cooler have little to no difference in cooling ability regardless of orientation. But I have not tested the R1 in all orientations to know about it for sure.


----------



## Shneiky

Here is the front of my modded 912. (Sorry for the bad picture quality, don't have a camera available right now). I removed the hex mesh and put something far less restrictive. You can even barely see the first TY-147A through the fine mesh filter on the 5.25 bays.



And here is the side. The Video card stands 2/3 under the top openings. It is also a good 8-9 cm away from the panel. It is a good deal smaller than the R1. This, at least in my logic, will provide more air in vertical (fans bottom-to-top) mount than having it to pull through the entire length of the case from the filtered intakes on the 5.25 bays.



And I did have negative performance impact by changing the mounting on a lot of modern coolers. But I guess that is just me.

Also, in all my tests, the moment when I started P95 temps rose steadily for 4-5 minutes. After the first 5 minutes - they were all flat, without a change even after half a hour or 1 hour. This makes me believe that there is no hot air recirculating. I don't really know if I am on the right track.


----------



## lifeisabsurd

Any updates on when the C7 will be available on sites like newegg or amazon? Can't wait to try it out and see how it compares to the Noctua..


----------



## Shneiky

@doyll,

Here is the temp chart compared to RPM. Single and dual configurations.



Interesting this is - in Single fan config. - the TY has a slight edge. In dual fan config. - the XF140 have a definitive lead.

No room ambient temperatures, software, software settings, Power Options, BIOS options, case fan configuration or case FAN RPM has changed between the tests.


----------



## doyll

Shneiky
Interesting data, but hard to really analyze without knowing cooler intake air temp.
Really need to know what the cooler intake air temps are for each of the CPU temps. If they are staying the same, then the XF is doing a little better.

The difference between TY and XF is really marginal. 1c, but less than 2c is pretty much within margin of error, and could easily be a result of cooler intake air temp changes.


----------



## wanako

Just got two H5's for a dual CPU system I'm building. Decided to give Cryorig a shot and damn these things are absolutely beautiful. Great first impression. What an interesting cooler. Once I get the system built I'll take a look at how it performs.


----------



## doyll

Looking forward to hearing how they look on finished build.


----------



## Colin_MC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> @doyll,
> 
> Here is the temp chart compared to RPM. Single and dual configurations.
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting this is - in Single fan config. - the TY has a slight edge. In dual fan config. - the XF140 have a definitive lead.
> 
> No room ambient temperatures, software, software settings, Power Options, BIOS options, case fan configuration or case FAN RPM has changed between the tests.


One degree is a definite lead? (2 fans used). Also - how did you paint the TY-147A to a black colour? (not the frame of course







)


----------



## Shneiky

@doyll,

I agree with you. But since the only thing that has ever changed between the tests is the fans and the rest of the system and environment stayed the same - I don't really see how the intake temps will be different. The only thing I could manage is to put a thermometer in front of the intake of the case. The thermometer was showing exactly the same thing during all tests - 20C which is same as ambient. But this is as good as I can at the current moment.

I also, need to excuse myself. A lot of my posts here could be perceived as me bashing on Cryorig. Well I am not. I am secretly hoping for Steve-S to be reading all of this. I want Cryorig to improve and dominate. I love their approach. I love their engineering, attention to detail, aesthetics and character. And I would definitely like if in few years everyone is chanting "Cryorig" the same way they are chanting Noctua today.

All in all - my test was not to compare the TY to XF in a perfect theoretical performance. My test was one always of a purely practical application. If one fan struggles in my common (which is just a mid tower with common lay out and some extra case fans) set-up - then so be it. Though I want to add, that even if the TY and XF have similar pressure at given RPM (XF slightly higher) the XF pushes a noticeable amount more air.

I do agree that the XF is doing a bit better - specially in dual fan config. Though, the TY needs 200 RPM more to reach the noise level of the XF or in other words, 900 RPM TY has similar noise level as XF at 700 RPM. Though still the XF has higher performance for the same RPM.

I never criticized the R1 heatsink - actually the heatsink is so well put together, that it puts to shame the resent Noctua NH-D14 a colleague asked me to mount in his home workstation.

I never criticized the XF for its performance. Actually, it is one of the best, if not the best performing 140 mm fan I have ever seen up to date. What I have always criticized is the noise levels of the XF. But then again, Cryorig stated - "Ultimate Performance" and ultimate performance they deliver. Just in my own logic, I would have engineered the XF to start at 500 RPM or 400 RPM. At that RPM it would have been really quieter with a very slight C increase. Then it would really have been a high-end fan suitable both for silence and ultimate performance. I just feel a bit cheated on the "Kill the Noise Silence is Cold" slogan.


----------



## Shneiky

@Colin_MC,

It took the Dual XF140s RPM of around 700 to achieve 56C. It took the dual TY-147A 915 to achieve the same result. That 200 RPM difference is what I would call a lead.









The way I painted the TY-147A was with black matte spray paint. I used masking tape to mask the frame. I used some toilet paper and a very thin and small screwdriver to stuff some toilet paper into the crack between the fan and the frame (so it covers the motor hole). Then I used thin layers of spray. When I was done - I just removed everything and had a black TY-147A. It actually took only 1 stroke in horizontal direction and a second stroke in vertical direction to get it done. I measured the painted fan and the non-painted fan on a digital scale - they were showing the exact same 171.1 grams. So the paint coat I added is within the margin of error of the scale - which mean the coat is thin enough not to affect the motor - or at least I hope.

[Be advised - any modding or tempering with your own equipment is at your own risk and responsibility, and will void warranty. I guess you know, but just needed to mention that again.]


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> @doyll,
> 
> I agree with you. But since the only thing that has ever changed between the tests is the fans and the rest of the system and environment stayed the same - I don't really see how the intake temps will be different. The only thing I could manage is to put a thermometer in front of the intake of the case. The thermometer was showing exactly the same thing during all tests - 20C which is same as ambient. But this is as good as I can at the current moment.
> 
> I also, need to excuse myself. A lot of my posts here could be perceived as me bashing on Cryorig. Well I am not. I am secretly hoping for Steve-S to be reading all of this. I want Cryorig to improve and dominate. I love their approach. I love their engineering, attention to detail, aesthetics and character. And I would definitely like if in few years everyone is chanting "Cryorig" the same way they are chanting Noctua today.
> 
> All in all - my test was not to compare the TY to XF in a perfect theoretical performance. My test was one always of a purely practical application. If one fan struggles in my common (which is just a mid tower with common lay out and some extra case fans) set-up - then so be it. Though I want to add, that even if the TY and XF have similar pressure at given RPM (XF slightly higher) the XF pushes a noticeable amount more air.
> 
> I do agree that the XF is doing a bit better - specially in dual fan config. Though, the TY needs 200 RPM more to reach the noise level of the XF or in other words, 900 RPM TY has similar noise level as XF at 700 RPM. Though still the XF has higher performance for the same RPM.
> 
> I never criticized the R1 heatsink - actually the heatsink is so well put together, that it puts to shame the resent Noctua NH-D14 a colleague asked me to mount in his home workstation.
> 
> I never criticized the XF for its performance. Actually, it is one of the best, if not the best performing 140 mm fan I have ever seen up to date. What I have always criticized is the noise levels of the XF. But then again, Cryorig stated - "Ultimate Performance" and ultimate performance they deliver. Just in my own logic, I would have engineered the XF to start at 500 RPM or 400 RPM. At that RPM it would have been really quieter with a very slight C increase. Then it would really have been a high-end fan suitable both for silence and ultimate performance. I just feel a bit cheated on the "Kill the Noise Silence is Cold" slogan.


If we forget the RPM to temp and use the noise to temp both fans perform near identical? To me noise level to airflow is more important than RPM to airflow. RPM is an abstract number, but noise is something real. One of the best fan testing sights I know of is ThermalBench. So far is testing has been on a radiator so results may be different on an air cooler. But my point is he does RPM to dBA, RPM to linear and *linear airflow to dBA* This way we know what a system will sound like at a given airflow as well as fan speed.

I know you are not bashing Cryorig. And the XF and TY perform pretty much the same at same noise level, it's just that the TY is quieter and moves less air at same .. and like you said, for some of us the TY sound is not as distracting as the XF

The cooler intake air temp is just something I have a fetish about. Air is such a fickled witch, sometimes doing strange things with almost no changes in system. For TY fans have an oval airflow (wider on the round sides) and this often improves cooler performance by flowing air more evenly to all pipes, or it can change the airflow pattern of case airflow .. resulting in different cooler intake air temps.

I agree, fans that will idle at 400-500rpm are ideal.

What did you think of the D14 mount versus the R1?


----------



## Shneiky

I agree with you on most points and I disagree on one point. Noise in dbA is something real. Noise profile is something very abstract.

1 - Noise

I have the computer on the desk, almost touching the monitor and the intake approx 40-50 cm away from my ear. In open air I hooked up the TY, the XF and a 120 mm Silent Wings 2 to my fan controller. The TY at 300 RPM sounds almost exactly the same as Silent Wings 2 (or in this case - Shadow Wings) 120mm at 500. With my eyes closed - I could not distinguish them. And Silent Wings 2 have the most pleasant noise profile I have encountered - apart from the TY.

Now the TY when ramped up sounds a bit like the proper of an airplane. The XF however - reminds me of a hornet. The TY noise dies quicker with distance, while the low treble of the XF does survive distance and it is pretty hard to dampen by the case. To my ear - a single XF at 700 RPM is twice as loud as dual TY-147s at 800 RPM. Also, having 1 TY or 2 TY did impact noise rather little. While having 2 XF did substantially increase the noise over a single fan config.

This are my notes on the single fan config of the noise profile. I did the test at 3 AM when there is no almost no noise. I live in a place where cars and vehicles are not allowed in a perimeter of more than a 100 meters. So with the exception of a drunk student passing by - the noise level is amazingly low.

RPM TY-147 Noise
278 Quieter than system
490 Same as rest of the system
672 Barely audiable over system - airflow noise - 10 cm
806 Barely audiable over system - airflow noise - 30 cm
981 Medium aiflow noise and slight humming noise - 50cm
1244 Loud humming noise

RPM XF-140 Noise
755 Barely audiable airflow noise - 50 cm
1123 Medium-Loud turbulence noise - 50 cm
1285 Loud turbulence noise - 50 cm
1436 Even louder Louder

2 - Cooler intake temps.

"For TY fans have an oval airflow (wider on the round sides) and this often improves cooler performance by flowing air more evenly to all pipes, or it can change the airflow pattern of case airflow" - that is good to know that they have more of an oval shape. I tought this would not matter that much, since the R1 has covers around the fins - concentrating air inside, instead of it spilling out like a Noctua or a Phanteks or a Thermalright. Will try to get some probe some day.

3 - Noctua vs Cryorig mount

Well, pretty much similar. Nothing to write home about. Both are extremely easy to use (looking at you be quiet! and your ridiculous little wrench). Though the Noctua is a bit easier, since you have visibility of the screws, while the the R1 - I need to go for some "touch and feel" guesswork with the included screwdriver around the fins cutout. But this is more of a cooler design point, and not the mounting kit itself.


----------



## Steve-S

Hi @Shneiky No offense taken, I do read almost everything whenever I can get some breathing room, probably not daily, not in chronological order either. But I do go through roughly everything I can find on the net regarding how our users are thinking of the products. We even take the true basher's comments humbly. OCN in particular has been a great source of feedback for me and my team, and almost everything said here is constructive and give me something to build on! So we appreciate any discussion about our products, including your comments too!

Back on topic about fans. Initially when we came out with the XF and XT fans they had one mission, to deliver the best performance out of the R1's oddly designed fins (dual stacks of changing fin gaps.) This lead us to choose the initial Performance>dBA route. As a new brand we really needed the added oomph of a top performer. In our mindset the media and forums would not be as forgiving to a fresh new brand name that was silent but did not have amazing performance. That's why we were satisfied with the dBA levels and performance that the XF, XT + R1 gave us. Don't take me wrong, the XF and XT fans are by no means "bad" fans that were rushed out. We simply put one priority over the other, extremely high performance, while keeping dBA and noise acceptable to us (no leaf blower fan!)

The noise profile issue is actually something that we didn't anticipate for, possibly it's just the difference in tolerance levels individually, and something not easily detected by scientific methods or equipment. But it's definitely not something we've only heard once. We are all too familiar with the TY-140 ( I have around 20 at home and more in our labs.) And everything stated about the "Characteristics" makes a lot of sense once compared. I apologize on part of Team CRYORIG, as we truly did not look into this detail during product planning. But this is actually high on our agenda right now. In beginning of next year we also aim to dwell deeper in the silent cooling categories.

We actually have some early designs of silent version fans with new impellers. We will then trying make Silent Editions of our existing products, with some fan and fin fine tuning.


----------



## Shneiky

Hello @Steve-S,

Thank you for keeping an eye on the internet and your user base. I appreciate your hard work and the effort Cryorig puts in the products.

XF and XT fans are by no means bad. I honestly believe that XF does have a lot of points that it does better compared to the TY-147A, while the TY does other things better.

For one thing, the XF has a quieter bearing. Though the XF fans (or at least my two samples) do not like horizontal mount (bottom to top airflow) as the fan start to vibrate. The XF also exhibits slight vibration throughout its range of RPM even when mounted horizontally. My XFs are an year old and I believe the vibration increased over my ownership period.

The TY-147A on the other side - exhibits no vibration up until 900 RPM, but at 1100 the fan vibration increases noticeably and at 1300 - it makes my video card rattle, it's like it is dancing in the case. To recap - the XF has slight vibration through its range which increases slighty. The TY has no vibration in which increases significantly at max RPM

On this comparison, the XF is the superior fan. The bearing used by Cryorig is top notch. The fan design of XF does clearly overtake the TY design in pure performance perspective.

My own personal tests lead to me to believe that the XF140 design can be completely sufficient to cool while providing low noise levels at even 400 or 500 RPM, while keeping the ability to ramp up and provide the ton of cooling it does at max RPM.

If I can give a piece of advice for a maybe XF2-140 version - if you could dial the fan to start at 400-500 RPM instead of the 700 - it will already give the Cryorig coolers an opportunity to content into the silent area without sacrificing max performance. The delta between 750 RPM dual XF and almost 1400 RPM RPM dual XF is just 2 C. The XF design does hold a lot of promise.

On my own machine - rendering with VRay for 2 hours ended up at 52C with dual TY-147s at 450 RPM. Running P95 with same Fan settings gives me 63 C. That is 11C delta between one of the heaviest real world applications (Rendering with a 3D rendering Engine) and unrealistic P95.

The XF design is much more efficient at low RPM than other designs. Instead of the dual XFs at 750 RPM giving 56C under P95 and 45C during rendering - I would have been OK to get 60C and 400 RPM, for example.

In my opinion, you guys at Cryorig have a ton of stuff already figured out. You have good eye for detail, some rather good ideas and the courage to push to the next limit. You got very solid craftsmanship. The only thing that you have left is to figure the tiny little details









Keep on the good work and thank you for listening.

Also - how is the Z1 going? I want one!


----------



## doyll

Also in Cryorig's defense, at the time the R1, XF140 and XT140 fans were being developed, consumers were not as worried about noise as now.

Cryorig's design and marketing philosophy have took the air cooler market by storm to become one of the very best and popular cooler companies in the business. Add to this their dedication to customer support and even more and better products, I expect to be happily using Cryorig products years and years in the future.


----------



## Shneiky

@doyll,

I completely agree with you that the majority of consumers were not concerned with quiet 2-3-4 years ago as they are now. But neither me, nor you are the majority of consumers, right?









And the majority of benches I have seen - R1 is the top air cooler. On average - it trades blows with the 40 grams heavier and size wise larger NH-D15 and manages to win or stay equal in performance. (depending on the reviewer) That is no small feat considering the size difference. It definitely takes some fine engineering to manage that.

There is future in Cryorig







I also hope to be using them again in the future. But I also want them to improve - hence why I am critical about certain aspects, but always giving credits where it is due.


----------



## Kutalion

On our tests we got 1 degree better temp on nh-d15s with 2x a-15 fans. Tho they do go about 100 rpm higher than XF fans. As far as audio, XF fans sound a lot louder on lower rmp, but noticably better on higher rpm. If only XFs had a bigger pwm duty cycle, they'd be perfect.


----------



## Shneiky

@Kutalion,

Yeap. Agree with you. That is what I have been saying for quite a few pages already.


----------



## doyll

Gotta love threads with discussions like this.







We have reviewers, users, testers and Cryorig all here having a nice conversation.









My own testing puts R1, NH-D15, Silver Arrow IB-E and PH-TC14PE all in the lead in one test or another with each other.
One of these days I want to run all of them with something like the TY-143 and if I can get NF-A14 IPPC 3000rpm to see what they will do with jet engine type airflow.


----------



## Shneiky

What about some 6000 RPM Delta's. Oh wait, that will tear the cooler of with a piece of the motherboard and give your CPU a fly around the room.


----------



## Kutalion

Let me contribute with the sound test as well








https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZCUb9xghtMc

Even tho the sound meter registers higher noise on XF fans, to most of us they sound way better and less loud. But ofc human ear is completely different to a machine.


----------



## Shneiky

@Kutalion,

I actually saw this video some time ago. I have to disagree with you on few points.

You have an open bench situation - you don't have a case. The case changes the acoustics of a fan. It can sometimes make a fan config. more bearable or sometimes it can cause resonance - which is pretty annoying sound even if it is quite low.

Those Noctua fans have very similar noise profile to the TY-147A fans. As doyll posted pictures before with them side to side - apart from the colors and the small ridges on the Noctua - you can't really tell them apart. Also, the TY-147As in my configuration sound similar, with the exception of the "pulsing" effect which I believe is maybe a microphone phenomenon.

I will copy-paste something from my previous post so you don't have to search for it.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Now the TY when ramped up sounds a bit like the proper of an airplane. The XF however - reminds me of a hornet. The TY noise dies quicker with distance, while the low treble of the XF does survive distance and it is pretty hard to dampen by the case. To my ear - a single XF at 700 RPM is twice as loud as dual TY-147s at 800 RPM. Also, having 1 TY or 2 TY did impact noise rather little. While having 2 XF did substantially increase the noise over a single fan config.

This are my notes on the single fan config of the noise profile. I did the test at 3 AM when there is no almost no noise. I live in a place where cars and vehicles are not allowed in a perimeter of more than a 100 meters. So with the exception of a drunk student passing by - the noise level is amazingly low.

RPM TY-147 Noise
278 Quieter than system
490 Same as rest of the system
672 Barely audiable over system - airflow noise - 10 cm
806 Barely audiable over system - airflow noise - 30 cm
981 Medium aiflow noise and slight humming noise - 50cm
1244 Loud humming noise

RPM XF-140 Noise
755 Barely audiable airflow noise - 50 cm
1123 Medium-Loud turbulence noise - 50 cm
1285 Loud turbulence noise - 50 cm
1436 Even louder Louder



As I said before, the case does a pretty good job at "silencing" or better said - "absorbing" the noise. I got an old HAF 912+ done with proper steel. Not like the flimsy Corsair R300, T230, T600 and etc. bendy cases. It absorbs a ton of noise that is produced by the TYs. I can hear a very large difference if the TY is running in a closed case or out in the open.

The XF however, keeps its sound profile regardless of it being in a case or not with minimal loss. The turbulence noise combined with a the treble survives the case and distance very well. The XF fan noise is very similar at 30 cm, 50 cm and 1 meter. The TY noise dies rapidly after 30-50 cm.

Also you said "to most of us they sound way better and less loud", but I completely disagree. Humans are programmed to be more sensitive to trebling noises. Because we were supposed to run away from lions and tigers and wolfs and stuff. And when one of them roars - you get the adrenaline rush.

To me the XF sounds like a hornet. And the TY/Noctua - like an airplane propeller. One is certainly more unpleasant than the other. Heavy turbulent sound makes me restless.

But this is the personal part that you can't just measure on a dB(A) scale. Good work on the video, btw. Very nicely done and provides a very good illustration. Keep up the good work!


----------



## Kutalion

While i do agree that cases change the sound by a lot, especially the high pitched noises often get reduced, i dont support testing in a case due to every case being specific and affecting the results differently. While our test case might dampen the sounds, consumers specific case might increase them.


----------



## doyll

It really is tough testing fan noise. You both are making valid points. I will only add that it takes some very good recording equipment to accurately reproduce a fan noise signature .. making it somewhat redundant.

We need a miniature fan noise signature sound system. Then we could record the fan and play it inside of whatever case we have to see how it sounds.








Leave quickly before objects start flying.


----------



## Shneiky

@Kutalion,

I do not question your testing methodology at all. It actually is very solid. I just wanted to underline some practical circumstances that are very hard to quantify properly in a test environment, due to the infinite amount of configurations, but they are of a key importance to the practical application of a CPU cooler or fan testing.

As you said - thin flimsy cases can increase the noise. Corsair budget cases, budget Silverstone, budget Rosewill, Raidmax, MS-Tech, Apex, Chieftec, Apevia, Techsolo, Sentey and the list goes on and on. Even the Lian Li cases exhibit noise propagation. Aluminum, specially the thinner one, is very good at propagating sound as opposed to steel. Speaking purely on my own personal experience with Lian Li.


----------



## Kutalion

I know, very hard to please every case owner







thus why i prefer testing on an open bench tbh.
At least as far as noise tests are concerned.

Also sound itself is quite problematic as not everyone has same hearing, is annoyed by same frequencies etc. I for instance dont mind growling loud ones, but high pitched noise from pumps make me wanna scream like an anime girl.


----------



## Shneiky

I definable agree with you.







One other main issue is ambient noise. I do not have super hearing - just very low ambient noise. If your ambient noise is 30 dB - then the XF could sound quiet as a fan can get. In my home - the ambient noise is under 19 dB at night. I tried a sound meter that I rented from an audio guy that works for film and TV - could not figure the actual ambient noise, since the sound meter has a threshold of 19 to 120 dB. So I am under what it could register.

This makes any PC component times and times louder than in a normal 25-30 dB environment.


----------



## doyll

I prefer open bench for cooler testing too .. for the similar reasons. Coolers and their fans have differing airflow characteristics that change their cooler depending on what case and case fans are being used.

And I always monitor cooler intake & exhaust air temps .. in or out of case. At least that way I know the real air temperature the cooler is ingesting and can calculate a true delta CPU temp of cooler performance for comparisons.

The intake air to exhaust air temps give pretty good reference for air's ability to absorb heat.


----------



## Shneiky

I have been wondering a lot about a good test methodology performed on 2011-3 as opposed to 1150 or 1151.

Lets say you have a 4790K. It's cores are concentrated in the center. Thus you get high thermal density in the CPU. Those CPU cores will get limited contact with heat-pipes from an Air cooler. A CLC though, will not have such issue, since the liquid inside is not as restricted area wise as a heat-pipe.

On X99 however, you get 6-8 cores very well distributed around. The CPU die is also larger. Thus giving a lot more area in which the heat-pipes can draw heat. This will not majorly impact a CLC, since liquid is not as affected as a heat-pipe location wise.

So - my logic is - on LGA 2011 / 2011-3 - R1 Ultimate, Dark Rock Pro3, NH-D14/15, Silver Arrow IB/SB and their E edditions, TC14PE and etc, will perform better on the Enthusiast socket than they do on the mainstream socket - which sadly is what 99% of the reviewers use.

P.S.
Sadly, nobody will sponsor me with a X99 and any CPU that fits in that socket to test it myself.







If someone has a spare - I can use a new X99 system


----------



## Kutalion

I use a 5820k, or a 2600k. I avoid haswells and Ivy's as not many people delid, and the difference in temps even between undelided ones are insane. Its down to luck how thick the silicone glue is on your specific processor..

So very much useless to test. And testing on a delided processor well, that would yield many more issues. Like risk of killing it from constant mount/demount of coolers, people comparing to their processors which are not delided and calling results fake etc.

And you are right, CR1 does even better as it has more heatpipes so they catch the outskirts which are way cooler on consumer platform than on HEDT.


----------



## doyll

There is validity to solme of your logic. the size area of chips on the CPU PCB can and does make a differnce, but size of the IHS has no or almost no effect on cooling. Except for direct contact heatpipe bases and aluminum bases, the solid copper of the base transfers heat over the area of the heatpipes very efficiently ..

But the thermal conductivity of water versus copper is extremely different, even if it is moving constantly over the surface.
Copper is 385.0 W/m K
Aluminum 205.0 W/m K
Water . is . 00.6 W/m K
*Higher is better*








Heatpipes are very efficient.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> I use a 5820k, or a 2600k. I avoid haswells and Ivy's as not many people delid, and the difference in temps even between undelided ones are insane. Its down to luck how thick the silicone glue is on your specific processor..
> 
> So very much useless to test. And testing on a delided processor well, that would yield many more issues. Like risk of killing it from constant mount/demount of coolers, people comparing to their processors which are not delided and calling results fake etc.
> 
> And you are right, CR1 does even better as it has more heatpipes so they catch the outskirts which are way cooler on consumer platform than on HEDT.


I am going through the dilemma with my new 6700K. Delidding will give better heat transfer to IHS and therefor to cooler/s being used on it .. therefor being a much better heat source for testing. But I can't afford to replace it if it dies.







Which means I will probably keep the serious cooking of coolers to my old i7 920.

At least on a delidded CPU (or i7-920) the heat source is being directly moved to cooler base.

Honestly, even same model of overclocked CPUs using same cooler should not be compared. But a series of accurate tests of several different coolers done on one CPU, then another CPU give us data we can compare. While their temps will be different there should be an accurate correlation between each CPU using same cooler from lows to highs.

Add in the lack of monitoring or accurate monitoring of cooler intake air temp during testing and most test results have little meaning.

One of best testing setups I seen is for comparing cooler performance is "Project Jalapeno"
http://www.thelab.gr/topic/88302-codename-project-jalapeno/


----------



## Shneiky

@Kutalion,

Yes, I am also using a 2700K and finding very consistent results. Sadly enough, I was in a bachelor programme in Computer Sciences and now I am in my last year of Art&Technology bachelor (specializing in VFX) so I am barely making ends meet and getting new hardware is completely our of the question.







Being a bachelor for 7-8 years is crewed-up.









@Doyll,

I completely agree with you. Metals have way higher thermal conductivity than water.

But - and this is a big "BUT", as we saw on Ivy, Haswell and Skylake as opposed to the Ivy-E and Haswell-E - the best coolers for the mainstream platform is not the one that can deal with the largest amount of heat - but the ones that can take heat away faster. Or in other words - the consumer platform, which is chips with high thermal density, although overall - lower heat volume - benefit more from the said CLCs. The CLCs do not actually use plain water, but a coolant liquid, that can absorb smaller amounts of heat very rapidly.

The main point I am trying to make here is - the liquid in CLCs is, of course , a liquid - a matter which molecules are loosely arranged (with no regular arrangement) - thus small amounts of heat can travel fast. (same is applicable to vapor fluid)

In a metal - the molecules are densely packed and neatly organized. This makes large quantities of heat travel very efficiently, but at a slower pace.

So we have a LGA 115* (something from Ivy to Skylake) which are much more susceptible to the speed from which you can take out the heat.
And we have LGA 2011 / 2011-3 which is much more dependent on the overall volume of heat you can get out.

Please, feel free to fix my physics if I screwed up anywhere









This brings me to the original point - large air coolers kick even more ass on HEDT platforms









All of this is in the logic that most reviewers actually use the consumer platform for benches - which gives the CLCs an advantage.


----------



## Kutalion

I get cancer every time i see somebody use a consumer i7 Ivy/Haswell for benches.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> I get cancer every time i see somebody use a consumer i7 Ivy/Haswell for benches.


Feel the same bro

I'm going to order a NHD15 end year, and switch to open air bench probably


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> @Kutalion,
> 
> Yes, I am also using a 2700K and finding very consistent results. Sadly enough, I was in a bachelor programme in Computer Sciences and now I am in my last year of Art&Technology bachelor (specializing in VFX) so I am barely making ends meet and getting new hardware is completely our of the question.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being a bachelor for 7-8 years is crewed-up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Doyll,
> 
> I completely agree with you. Metals have way higher thermal conductivity than water.
> 
> But - and this is a big "BUT", as we saw on Ivy, Haswell and Skylake as opposed to the Ivy-E and Haswell-E - the best coolers for the mainstream platform is not the one that can deal with the largest amount of heat - but the ones that can take heat away faster. Or in other words - the consumer platform, which is chips with high thermal density, although overall - lower heat volume - benefit more from the said CLCs. The CLCs do not actually use plain water, but a coolant liquid, that can absorb smaller amounts of heat very rapidly.
> 
> The main point I am trying to make here is - the liquid in CLCs is, of course , a liquid - a matter which molecules are loosely arranged (with no regular arrangement) - thus small amounts of heat can travel fast. (same is applicable to vapor fluid)
> 
> In a metal - the molecules are densely packed and neatly organized. This makes large quantities of heat travel very efficiently, but at a slower pace.
> 
> So we have a LGA 115* (something from Ivy to Skylake) which are much more susceptible to the speed from which you can take out the heat.
> And we have LGA 2011 / 2011-3 which is much more dependent on the overall volume of heat you can get out.
> 
> Please, feel free to fix my physics if I screwed up anywhere
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This brings me to the original point - large air coolers kick even more ass on HEDT platforms
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of this is in the logic that most reviewers actually use the consumer platform for benches - which gives the CLCs an advantage.


AFAIK the liquid in CLCs is the same as AIOs and loops (and heatpipes as well); H2O with maybe a small amount of inhibitor added to stop corrosion.

I have not had to privilege of using any of the newer H2O loops, AIOs or CLCs so can't say how well heatpipe bases and waterblocks compare under equal test conditions. I do know some heatpipe bases work better on some CPUs better than others .. and heatpipe direction / orientation can also effect how well heat is transferred out of CPU.

Problem is the same as other testing. Procedures are not nearly accurate enough for much if any meaningful analysis' to be made.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> AFAIK the liquid in CLCs is the same as AIOs and loops (and heatpipes as well); H2O with maybe a small amount of inhibitor added to stop corrosion.
> 
> I have not had to privilege of using any of the newer H2O loops, AIOs or CLCs so can't say how well heatpipe bases and waterblocks compare under equal test conditions. I do know some heatpipe bases work better on some CPUs better than others .. and heatpipe direction / orientation can also effect how well heat is transferred out of CPU.
> 
> Problem is the same as other testing. Procedures are not nearly accurate enough for much if any meaningful analysis' to be made.


Hey doyll, what case do you recommend if I were to use the NH D15? It has to house 2 5.25 and a minimum of 4 hdd and a space for 120mm clc for the graphics card.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Shneiky

@doyll,

You might be right about the substance used in CLCs and AIOs, but heat-pipes work differently.

What I know - at least in Cooler Master heat-pipes and in Sapphire heat-pipes for their Vapor X GPU coolers - they use either a liquid with very low boiling points (30-40-50 C - don't really know, it is an engineering secret in the end) or they use a gas with very high liquefying temp (again same 40-50C, secret again).

Heat-pipes will not be efficient at all if they use plain water. The use of a gas with high liquefying temp or a liquid with low boiling temp provides the efficiency we see today. I saw same engineering documents some years ago - cant really remember where and when. Only Cooler Master and Sapphire were that proud of their exact heat-pipe technology to showoff some of their engineering.

And you are definately right about testing procedures. The ultimate cooler performance procedure from Frozen CPU using a hotplate is the best procedure to get the ultimate performance of a cooler. But that is completely off when compared to a practical application with a certain CPU.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Hey doyll, what case do you recommend if I were to use the NH D15? It has to house 2 5.25 and a minimum of 4 hdd and a space for 120mm clc for the graphics card.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Start a thread so we are hijacking any more than we already are here and I have some good suggestions.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> @doyll,
> 
> You might be right about the substance used in CLCs and AIOs, but heat-pipes work differently.
> 
> What I know - at least in Cooler Master heat-pipes and in Sapphire heat-pipes for their Vapor X GPU coolers - they use either a liquid with very low boiling points (30-40-50 C - don't really know, it is an engineering secret in the end) or they use a gas with very high liquefying temp (again same 40-50C, secret again).
> 
> Heat-pipes will not be efficient at all if they use plain water. The use of a gas with high liquefying temp or a liquid with low boiling temp provides the efficiency we see today. I saw same engineering documents some years ago - cant really remember where and when. Only Cooler Master and Sapphire were that proud of their exact heat-pipe technology to showoff some of their engineering.
> You are over-engineering here. Honest, I many not know a lot but I do know it is water in them thar pipes. The trick is the pipes are vacuum sealed. Not sure exactly what the vacuum level is. It varies some depending on application. But `that is why the boiling point is so much lower than normal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used to work with a bunch of arcade game techies. When the video games with guns came out I went crazy trying to figure out how the gun I was aiming and shooting a target on the video screen knew if I hit or missed the target.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you are definately right about testing procedures. The ultimate cooler performance procedure from Frozen CPU using a hotplate is the best procedure to get the ultimate performance of a cooler. But that is completely off when compared to a practical application with a certain CPU.


----------



## Shneiky

Maybe Steve-S can just spill a piece of the secret - is it water in R1 heatpipes - or some mysterious magic dragon blood or pixie tears that make the R1's ultimate performance.


----------



## doyll

Don't know what the makeup of dragon blood is, but pixie tears are water with a little salt.


----------



## Shneiky

That is the thing - it is a mystery salt made up from elements that are not on the periodic table - it has 5x the thermal conductivity of copper. (you sure know how to ruin a good joke







)


----------



## TK421

Doesn't salt / sodium accelerate metal corrosion/rust?


----------



## Shneiky

Normal salt - yes. But pixie salt or Cryorig vapor fluid - doesn't


----------



## doyll

What Shneiky said.








Cryorig Vapor Fluid it is.
Same stuff used in the AF41 cooler and transported by the "Cloud" Air Fort One


----------



## Shneiky

I got a Cloud Air Fort One carrying a new 5960X on a X99-Deluxe with 3 Z1s for my personal benches. Weirdly enough - the track&trace code has been stuck at the Bermuda Triangle for the past few months. If it doesn't arrive soon - should I start to worry?









Apparently, other Air Fort One users are reporting similar issues. As of now - this issue persists on 100% of the Air Fort Ones.


----------



## Dyaems

Oh yeh I still haven't got my Air Fort One I ordered many months ago. I'm thinking that something shot it down somewhere along the Bermuda Triangle. The tracking says it was hovering around Bermuda Triangle last time I checked.


----------



## Sepesusi

Recently got a new case and the R1 Universal fits like a charm into the Define R5, like a cherry on top of a cake.







Computer is pretty much dead silent too.


----------



## doyll

Great case with a great cooler. Both have very few equals and no betters.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> I get cancer every time i see somebody use a consumer i7 Ivy/Haswell for benches.


I get you too!
We were kind of against this initially, but in the end it's about what people are using and how well they can relate to the review or test setup. As objective as testing can go, there's always way too many variables. Performing good on LGA1366 also doesn't always mean the same thing on LGA115x.
The amount of people using LGA2011 has been much much lower than 1366vs1156 back in the day. Reviewers notice this and try to adjust their setups accordingly. It's just how the eco system is now.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> Maybe Steve-S can just spill a piece of the secret - is it water in R1 heatpipes - or some mysterious magic dragon blood or pixie tears that make the R1's ultimate performance.


Magic CRYO Juice, lol.

For the R1 it's more than just the heatpipes, there's at least 3~4 small manufacturing details we are using to squeeze that extra edge.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sepesusi*
> 
> Recently got a new case and the R1 Universal fits like a charm into the Define R5, like a cherry on top of a cake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Computer is pretty much dead silent too.


Clean clean look! Take my like!
You could have gone with a red frame with that.


----------



## Shneiky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Magic CRYO Juice, lol.
> 
> For the R1 it's more than just the heatpipes, there's at least 3~4 small manufacturing details we are using to squeeze that extra edge.


CRYO Juice it is then!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Magic CRYO Juice, lol.
> 
> For the R1 it's more than just the heatpipes, there's at least 3~4 small manufacturing details we are using to squeeze that extra edge.


Learn something new every day.








I always thought it was water.









Is CRYO juice organic? Is it anything like Bettlejuice?


----------



## Shneiky

For once, my over engineering concepts were, at least, partially true.


----------



## doyll

Sorry mate, but "over engineering" and "magic" fight tooth and nail.


----------



## Shneiky

@doyll,

Hmmm, tooth and nail... I always tough it was lasers vs. fireballs. I prefer lasers though.









@Steve-S,

Could you, or more likely - can you - share any info on the status of Z1? Are there hopes of it coming to the market in the next year or so?


----------



## doyll

While your at it Steve-S, when will the AF41 I ordered and transported by the "Cloud" Air Fort One I ordered a year later going to be arriving? My tracking number (AF412014C-AF12015) is blank.

Edit: I'm assuming it's not your fault, but an AF screw-up. AF is known for this kind of thing.







.


----------



## Shneiky

Same as mine, doyll, somewhere around the Bermuda Triangle. Maybe we need to go for a recovery expedition. We would need something better than an airplane. If only we had some Z1s to attach to a inflatable boat ... Cryorig Hovercraft! No... HoverRig!


----------



## doyll

A CRYO Craft is what we need.
Hopefully CRYORIG will have one ready the first of second quarter 2016


----------



## Shneiky

CryoCraft it is. (slams a bottle of champagne into the hull)

But back on topic. The Z1 has been the most interesting cooler I have ever seen. I was less excited about the R1 than I am about the Z1.


----------



## TK421

would you guys expect the z1 to outperform the r1 ultimate and nh d15?

why/why not?


----------



## Shneiky

I expect Z1 to be slightly under R1 Ultimate and Universal in performance, but hopefully, with a few tweaks of fans (like a XFv2 or something) and minor fin tweaking to be much more silent. I am also expecting lower overall weight. On the images we saw - the fins are radial and the center zone does not have fins - but an actual hole. This will not impact performance much, since it is exactly in the dead zone of a fan, but will reduce overall weight - which is nice. Or that weight could be redistributed to other - more important areas of the fin array. I mean - 1.2 kg of a cooler is good enough. You can't just add weight due to practical reasons.

I am not a fan of white in a PC at all, but I can just drool over the image of a Z1 on a X99-Pro or X99-Deluxe. If I win from the lottery - you know what I am getting.









P.S

Though to be really hones - I am expecting less noise from the Z1 even with the same fans. The radial fin concept falls much more in line with the radial force of a fan pushing air. While just a "square" design (R1, NH-D15, etc, etc) will have increased resistance, because it has to "convert" the radial airflow into a square air tunnel. And this resistance can cause more noise.

Now I am just a physics enthusiast, so I have no idea if I am not over-engineering stuff again


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> I expect Z1 to be slightly under R1 Ultimate and Universal in performance, but hopefully, with a few tweaks of fans (like a XFv2 or something) and minor fin tweaking to be much more silent. I am also expecting lower overall weight. On the images we saw - the fins are radial and the center zone does not have fins - but an actual hole. This will not impact performance much, since it is exactly in the dead zone of a fan, but will reduce overall weight - which is nice. Or that weight could be redistributed to other - more important areas of the fin array. I mean - 1.2 kg of a cooler is good enough. You can't just add weight due to practical reasons.
> 
> I am not a fan of white in a PC at all, but I can just drool over the image of a Z1 on a X99-Pro or X99-Deluxe. If I win from the lottery - you know what I am getting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S
> 
> Though to be really hones - I am expecting less noise from the Z1 even with the same fans. The radial fin concept falls much more in line with the radial force of a fan pushing air. While just a "square" design (R1, NH-D15, etc, etc) will have increased resistance, because it has to "convert" the radial airflow into a square air tunnel. And this resistance can cause more noise.
> 
> Now I am just a physics enthusiast, so I have no idea if I am not over-engineering stuff again


guess we'll have to rely on doyll's testing for the z1


----------



## Shneiky

Well, as far as I know, Z1 is still a concept. Only Steve-S can share some details - if he is permitted to share anything at all. A lot of these things a corporate secret. I am a VFX artist and I know how tight information filters "regarding" a product are.









But, if Z1 comes to be a real deal - and even if sacrifices performance to gain some silence or just has some improvements in the silence department, and there is a Ultimate and not only Universal edition - I am getting one Z1 Ultimate A.S.A.P. Also, I really like the letter Z for some reason. I use it as a nick name a lot.


----------



## doyll

What /\ /\ said. I haven't seen anything but the concept media for Z1. Maybe Steve will throw us a few bones.


----------



## Shneiky

@doyll,

Want to make any educated guesses about the theoretical performance of the theoretically-possible Z1?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> @doyll,
> 
> Want to make any educated guesses about the theoretical performance of the theoretically-possible Z1?


I will not acknowledge or deny .. nor make any speculative statement except to say base on Cryorig's record it will be a great cooler.








Rumor is they are developing a new improved CRYO juice for it.


----------



## Shneiky

Hope it is a mango flavor this time....


----------



## Garvani

Im in the process of putting a build together. R1 ultimate in a Mastercase 5 pro. Ill move the two stock front CM 140mm fans and mount them to the top panel as exhausts, then installing 3x XF140 in the front as intake's. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Cryorig gear is well priced in Australia and im keen on supporting them.

Rest of planned specs. Overclocked i7 6700k, MSI 390, Evga 750g2.


----------



## Shneiky

That would definitely be a monster set-up in cooling performance when paired with an R1. Though, it will be rather noisy for my personal taste. Depending on your perception of noise and your ambient noise - it might not bother you.

I can't say anything more about the noise, but the performance will be stellar.


----------



## Garvani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> That would definitely be a monster set-up in cooling performance when paired with an R1. Though, it will be rather noisy for my personal taste. Depending on your perception of noise and your ambient noise - it might not bother you.
> 
> I can't say anything more about the noise, but the performance will be stellar.


Excellent. Noise doesn't particularly bother me, i will set a fan curve through asus fan control anyway. I need decent cooling as summer here in Melbourne is going to be brutal, expecting 40c (104f) plus days


----------



## Shneiky

That is the point. XF 140s start at 700 rpm - a lot of other fans start 500 or lower. Also, XF has one of the highest performance to RPM ratio - though at the expense of some noise. No fan curve will help you if you want it lower.

Even though I am not a big fan (pun inteded) of XF 140s - they are some very high performance fans, with nice build quality. Bearing is top notch. They are the dream of every performance enthusiast out there. (no Delta's allowed







)


----------



## Garvani

Yep and it shall stay at 700rpm unless it hits boiling point in my room lol. Its something i can put up with, pc wont be on when im asleep and i use a headset for 100% of my gaming so i shouldnt hear it.


----------



## Shneiky

Then knock yourself out and get those ultimate performance fans!


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> Then knock yourself out and get those ultimate performance fans!


OOT

Slowest possible speed on a 140mm is achieved by the NF A14 series on 300-400rpm no?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> Hope it is a mango flavor this time....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> OOT
> 
> Slowest possible speed on a 140mm is achieved by the NF A14 series on 300-400rpm no?


300-400rom idle is pretty common for 140mm fans. 400-600rpm idle for high speed fans (1800rom or more) Most fans are near silent at 600-700rpm, quiet to 1000-1100rpm and above that get increasingly louder. 1300-1500rpm is about as loud as most of us want to listen to, and then only for relatively short amounts of time.

But really it's what rpm the fan is running as long as the noise is acceptable and it delivers enough air to keep things cool. I am more interested in the noise to airflow of a working fan (on a cooler, vent with grill & filter, etc) is way more important than what rpm it is running.

For example, here is a noise to airflow graph from a Thermalbench review .

Vardar F2-140, TY-147A and PH-F140MP flow the most air at quietest noise levels.

Here are noise to rpm and airflow to rpm

TY-147A and PH-F140MP are quietest as a given rpm, while Vardar F2-140 and NB-Blacksilent Pro PK-3 flow the most air at given rpm.
http://thermalbench.com/2015/10/31/thermalright-ty-147a-140mm-fan/3/

At the end of the day, noise and airflow are what we are dealing with. RPM is just another part of it, like voltage and wattage.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 300-400rom idle is pretty common for 140mm fans. 400-600rpm idle for high speed fans (1800rom or more) Most fans are near silent at 600-700rpm, quiet to 1000-1100rpm and above that get increasingly louder. 1300-1500rpm is about as loud as most of us want to listen to, and then only for relatively short amounts of time.
> 
> But really it's what rpm the fan is running as long as the noise is acceptable and it delivers enough air to keep things cool. I am more interested in the noise to airflow of a working fan (on a cooler, vent with grill & filter, etc) is way more important than what rpm it is running.
> 
> For example, here is a noise to airflow graph from a Thermalbench review .
> 
> Vardar F2-140, TY-147A and PH-F140MP flow the most air at quietest noise levels.
> 
> Here are noise to rpm and airflow to rpm
> 
> TY-147A and PH-F140MP are quietest as a given rpm, while Vardar F2-140 and NB-Blacksilent Pro PK-3 flow the most air at given rpm.
> http://thermalbench.com/2015/10/31/thermalright-ty-147a-140mm-fan/3/
> 
> At the end of the day, noise and airflow are what we are dealing with. RPM is just another part of it, like voltage and wattage.


So for intake fans, the Vardar 140 will provide best noise to airflow ratio?

It says on the website that the 1150rpm model will idle around 500rpm (40%pwm).

Anyone have the Gentle Typhoon pwm 1850/2150 response data?


----------



## VSG

Those graphs are with the fan on a rad, not as a case intake fan. Different levels of restriction, and a fan with more airflow at the expense of static pressure might suit you better.

As far as the GT 1850 PWM fans go, extremely fresh data here:



Again, the fans (3 tested out) are mounted on a rad. Ignore the missing noise and airflow parts, it is being recorded still.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> So for intake fans, the Vardar 140 will provide best noise to airflow ratio?
> 
> It says on the website that the 1150rpm model will idle around 500rpm (40%pwm).
> 
> Anyone have the Gentle Typhoon pwm 1850/2150 response data?


On pure numbers, yes. But the difference is 1-2dBA and our ears take about 3dBA to hear a change in dBA. Another way of comparing is take two fans and run one, than run both while listening from a meter away. The difference you hear between 1 and 2 fans is about 3dBA.

I've been hearing some people saying the Vardar fans have an annoying sound. I cannot verify anything about the Vardars because I have no seen, touched, used or listened to any of them.

To clarify Geggeg's graph, left side is RPM, middle is dBA and right is fpm scales. Graph line is rpm. I've look at enough of his testing to know.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> On pure numbers, yes. But the difference is 1-2dBA and our ears take about 3dBA to hear a change in dBA. Another way of comparing is take two fans and run one, than run both while listening from a meter away. The difference you hear between 1 and 2 fans is about 3dBA.
> 
> I've been hearing some people saying the Vardar fans have an annoying sound. I cannot verify anything about the Vardars because I have no seen, touched, used or listened to any of them.
> 
> To clarify Geggeg's graph, left side is RPM, middle is dBA and right is fpm scales. Graph line is rpm. I've look at enough of his testing to know.


So even if I opt to buy the Vardar as opposed to the Noctua NF-A14 (140mm intake, Define R5 maybe) the noise reduction of the noctua isn't very noticeable?

Edit
Has anyone compared silverstone 140mm against other fans?

http://silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=366&area=en

Might not fit the R5's front mount though. Maybe as an exhaust?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> So even if I opt to buy the Vardar as opposed to the Noctua NF-A14 (140mm intake, Define R5 maybe) the noise reduction of the noctua isn't very noticeable?
> 
> Edit
> Has anyone compared silverstone 140mm against other fans?
> 
> http://silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=366&area=en
> 
> Might not fit the R5's front mount though. Maybe as an exhaust?


Start a thread to discuss these things. After all this is the Cryorig coolers and fans thread.


----------



## rapkct

Speaking of mounting... are there any way to install XF140s on casings where there are only 140mm mounting holes like below?


----------



## Kutalion

Only with adapters.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Only with adapters.


Only by making an adapter. I have not been able to find any available to buy.

Here is plan I use to make mine.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/20_20#post_23207921


----------



## therealjustin

I finally got a replacement R1 from Newegg and this one is scratched too









This time the box was closed so it was brand new, but it still had the same paint problems. Perhaps it is a bad batch? It's a shame because the first tower is flawless.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *therealjustin*
> 
> I finally got a replacement R1 from Newegg and this one is scratched too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time the box was closed so it was brand new, but it still had the same paint problems. Perhaps it is a bad batch? It's a shame because the first tower is flawless.


May I suggest you contact Cryorig directly?
http://www.cryorig.com/contact_us.php
They have great customer support.


----------



## wanako

These twins cooling dual E5-2620 v3 Xeons.












Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wanako*
> 
> These twins cooling dual E5-2620 v3 Xeons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice!
What temps are you getting?


----------



## wanako

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice!
> What temps are you getting?


Well, these are 85W Xeons, so they don't put out much heat, but when I had them folding for 72 hours, the max temp on the front CPU was like 56C on the hottest core and like 62 on the rear CPU.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wanako*
> 
> Well, these are 85W Xeons, so they don't put out much heat, but when I had them folding for 72 hours, the max temp on the front CPU was like 56C on the hottest core and like 62 on the rear CPU.


Cool temps, and you probably couldn't even hear it running.


----------



## wanako

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Cool temps, and you probably couldn't even hear it running.


Well the H5's no, but that Silverstone MM01 can get a bit loud when i crank up the fans. I kinda had to a little to get some air to cool down a SanDisk PX600 that's in there. Overall, it's not bad though.


----------



## Obrigado

installed today the r1 ultimate on my 5820k @4200mhz....

versus the phanteks there are no story.... huge difference by 12 degree on the hottest core

little bit noisy but now i am happy.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obrigado*
> 
> installed today the r1 ultimate on my 5820k @4200mhz....
> 
> versus the phanteks there are no story.... huge difference by 12 degree on the hottest core
> 
> little bit noisy but now i am happy.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Which Phanteks cooler


----------



## Obrigado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Which Phanteks cooler


sorry..

Phanteks- PH-TC14PE


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obrigado*
> 
> sorry..
> 
> Phanteks- PH-TC14PE


That's very peculiar. Should have only been a couple of degrees at most. Sounds like you had a bad seating/TIM/something on your 14PE.

Either way, glad it worked out.


----------



## doyll

What ciarlatano said. Both are near identical performance.


----------



## Obrigado

sorry, but why should I tell a lie?

I know what I do and I do not need to be told by anyone how to mount a heatsink. but ... I just teach. charlatan


----------



## wanako

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obrigado*
> 
> sorry, but why should I tell a lie?
> 
> I know what I do and I do not need to be told by anyone how to mount a heatsink. but ... I just teach. charlatan


chill out dude. No one is calling you a liar and no one is trying to tell you that you're wrong. It's just peculiar that there was such a big difference from a product that should be equal and he was just suggesting possible culprits. Either way, we're glad it worked out so well for you, so no need to get hostile.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obrigado*
> 
> sorry, but why should I tell a lie?
> 
> I know what I do and I do not need to be told by anyone how to mount a heatsink. but ... I just teach. charlatan


We are not saying you are not telling the truth. We just want to find the explanation to why two coolers that have been tested hundreds of times with results always within a couple of degrees of each other can be giving you a 12c difference in performance .. not the 2c, possibly 3c they normally give users and testers.


----------



## Roaches

Guess the Z1 Universal isn't coming out this year?? My zalman is itching for a worthy replacement.


----------



## Shneiky

Still waiting for Z1 here as well! Steve-S does not leave us any crumbs, so we can only guess.


----------



## Kutalion

Considering i got ONLY 7-8 degrees from rolling from Cryorig R1 ultimate to full out D5 pump custom loop with 360mm rad, 60mm thick, I can really believe those numbers. Ambient was 23-24 degrees celsius.
Tbh i think CR1 acts waaaay better on HEDT then on mainstream platform where its near equal to other top aircoolers.
For a cooler thats 4x cheaper, those results are beyond awesome.

Test was done on 5820k @ 1.25v in small fft.

CR1:


Alphacool D5/UT 360


----------



## Garvani

So i put my build together as i mentioned earlier. Goes great! Tis a bit loud when all the fans are at full but thats what headsets are for. Almost silent on lowest fan setting by the way.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garvani*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So i put my build together as i mentioned earlier. Goes great! Tis a bit loud when all the fans are at full but thats what headsets are for. Almost silent on lowest fan setting by the way.


With all that airflow you shouldn't need to run the fans very fast .. meaning they will be nice and quiet


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obrigado*
> 
> sorry, but why should I tell a lie?
> 
> I know what I do and I do not need to be told by anyone how to mount a heatsink. but ... I just teach. charlatan


I didn't say you were lying. I said your results were peculiar. As in "atypical", or "not consistent with the majority of known results". Which they are.

Somebody needs a cookie to cheer them up.....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Considering i got ONLY 7-8 degrees from rolling from Cryorig R1 ultimate to full out D5 pump custom loop with 360mm rad, 60mm thick, I can really believe those numbers. Ambient was 23-24 degrees celsius.
> Tbh i think CR1 acts waaaay better on HEDT then on mainstream platform where its near equal to other top aircoolers.
> For a cooler thats 4x cheaper, those results are beyond awesome.


I got very similar results when I switched cases and put in the R1 while waiting for some parts for the loop (D5 and a pair of HWL 240s). I was really in "why am I bothering to go through the trouble to put the loop back in" mindset as a result, but I couldn't bear to throw all of the loop expense into the closet. If I have a pump or GPU block issue, I am simply going back to the R1.

That said....I only got a couple of degree difference between the R1 and 14PE on the OC X99. The 14PE has always held up well on that platform.


----------



## Shneiky

God, that triple XF-140 config sure does look sexy. If only they idled down to 500 RPM so I can bear with them - I would have picked up a few.


----------



## mr squishy

I just want my Z1








I'm so excited for it to come out.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garvani*
> 
> 
> 
> So i put my build together as i mentioned earlier. Goes great! Tis a bit loud when all the fans are at full but thats what headsets are for. Almost silent on lowest fan setting by the way.


What case are you using?. . . I've been wanting to upgrade from the cm storm enforcer for a while now since it only has one 200mm intake fan. I wan't one like your so I can also put 3x140s to keep everything cool


----------



## Shneiky

It is a Cooler Master - Master case 5.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Thanks for the reply, , , I will try to pick up one of them ASAP.


----------



## therealjustin

I contacted Cryorig support but they insist that scratches and debris trapped under paint are normal and inevitable. For the price the least they could do is take an extra thirty seconds and make sure everything looks good before it goes in the box.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *therealjustin*
> 
> I contacted Cryorig support but they insist that scratches and debris trapped under paint are normal and inevitable. For the price the least they could do is take an extra thirty seconds and make sure everything looks good before it goes in the box.


If I was you I would of already asked for a refund. . . When I buy something new I expect it to be new, without scratches or bubbles from debris that got caught under the paint, especially on a $90 heatsink. My r1's paint is flawless and so should be all of them. Don't take the bs excuse that it is normal/inevitalbe, rma it again and if they refuse to exchange it shame on you cryorig.


----------



## therealjustin

Newegg agreed to give me a refund, thankfully. If I order through Amazon is it coming from the same warehouse? I noticed that it says "Cryorig Store" like on Newegg and I'd really like to get one from a different batch.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *therealjustin*
> 
> I contacted Cryorig support but they insist that scratches and debris trapped under paint are normal and inevitable. For the price the least they could do is take an extra thirty seconds and make sure everything looks good before it goes in the box.


Any pics of what you are talking about? That doesn't sound like the Cryorig support others and I have received.


----------



## Shneiky

It really sounds like improper storage from Newegg. The paint flaking could happen if exposed to high moisture levels for long periods of time.


----------



## isif

Hey guys,

Hows the RAM compatibility if I replace the outer fan of the R1 Ultimate with a xt140? what about single fan mode?

Memory I've ordered is G.Skill TridentZ DDR4 (44mm height)

Also are any customod covers (black or white) included?


----------



## Shneiky

You will need to run single fan mode to fit that RAM. Or you can put a slim fan and use the outer pair of slots - but that really depends on the motherboard.

Custom covers are not included. I believe they can be bought somewhere.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> It really sounds like improper storage from Newegg. The paint flaking could happen if exposed to high moisture levels for long periods of time.


Maybe too much humidity in the shipping container while at sea, but that would do way more damage than paint flaking. Besides, if paint is applied properly humidity does not make it flake.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *isif*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Hows the RAM compatibility if I replace the outer fan of the R1 Ultimate with a xt140? what about single fan mode?
> 
> Memory I've ordered is G.Skill TridentZ DDR4 (44mm height)
> 
> Also are any customod covers (black or white) included?


R1 Universal not only has thin front fan, but also has more clearance between front fin pack and RAM sockets.

There is a detailed measurement drawing in 4th post in this thread.


----------



## isif

I was initially going to get that one but not convinced I want one that's off-centre.

Will the fan clip work ok with the slim fan?

I can also reverse the orientation. Like in the images below


----------



## doyll

XT140 and XF140 use different clips.
Going pull / pull is probably best option. If back cooler and back case vent fan are that close, remove case fan. Back cooler fan almost always does a better job of removing air than using both case fan and cooler fans.


----------



## Dan-H

I just ordered a pair of Phanteks PH-F140HP fans to try on the Cryorig R1 Ultimate. My main goal is to quiet down my system, especially at idle, and my hope is to not give up any top-end performance.

I'm running the 4790K at 4.7Ghz with 1.28 vCore and heat has not been an issue. We'll see how these play out.

I can only get the XF140 fans to spin down to 780, so my hope is the PH-F140 fans will run idle lower, and quieter. We'll see.

The trigger to do this was last night I installed a new PSU and a quieter case fan in my budget linux minecraft server that shares the back of my desk with my main desktop, and now my main desktop is now noticeably louder that it is.

That and I had $25 off a $200 purchase at newegg burning a hole in my pocket so these two fans will net out to be about $8.00 US since they pushed the total over $200 of some other items I was buying..

I will post some before and after pics, and if I can find time, run some temp runs too. I will try and re-run some stress tests before because ambient temp has cooled off to 66F / 19C

I will also retire my WD Caviar Black 640 AALS hard disks. I bought these on Black Friday 2009 and they have worked very well in three different desktops, but it is time for them to move far, far away.


----------



## Shneiky

@Dan-H,

If you want really low idle noise - I would recommend TY-147A. I am running dual 147As on my R1 and things are going rather good. They idle at around 300 RPM. The only issue with the TY147A is that you need to find some way to prevent vibration on the mount. Some people use those little silicon pads that you put on your furniture (sorry, no idea how to name them in a proper manner). I like to take rubber mounting screws and cut off a piece.



Dual TYs at 900 RPM sound similar to an XF at 780. And the dual TYs never went over 450 rpm when rendering with Maya and 3rd party render engines. I have anywhere from 9 to 12 C difference between rendering and Prime 95.

Though the Phanteks fans are supposedly rather good. Never had one to try out - couldn't find any of them for sale with 120mm mount when I was searching for replacement fans. I am really interested if you can post RPM to C bench. I know C to Noise table is much more useful, but we can't really measure that accurately now, can we - after all we are not professional reviewers.


----------



## isif

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> XT140 and XF140 use different clips.
> Going pull / pull is probably best option. If back cooler and back case vent fan are that close, remove case fan. Back cooler fan almost always does a better job of removing air than using both case fan and cooler fans.


Thanks. Ordered the R1 Ultimate.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> @Dan-H,
> 
> If you want really low idle noise - I would recommend TY-147A. I am running dual 147As on my R1 and things are going rather good.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> They idle at around 300 RPM. The only issue with the TY147A is that you need to find some way to prevent vibration on the mount. Some people use those little silicon pads that you put on your furniture (sorry, no idea how to name them in a proper manner). I like to take rubber mounting screws and cut off a piece.
> 
> 
> 
> Dual TYs at 900 RPM sound similar to an XF at 780. And the dual TYs never went over 450 rpm when rendering with Maya and 3rd party render engines. I have anywhere from 9 to 12 C difference between rendering and Prime 95.
> 
> Though the Phanteks fans are supposedly rather good. Never had one to try out - couldn't find any of them for sale with 120mm mount when I was searching for replacement fans. I am really interested if you can post RPM to C bench. I know C to Noise table is much more useful, but we can't really measure that accurately now, can we - after all we are not professional reviewers
> 
> 
> .


Thanks. Do you have a US source to buy these? I don't see them being sold anywhere. Maybe I'm not looking for the right part number.


----------



## Shneiky

Try one of these.

http://www.thermalright.com/where_to_buy/where_to_buy_north-america.html

On a quick check I could only find TY147 which has a pwm range of 900-1300. What you would perfectly want is the 147A - which has a range of 300-1300.

P.S Found one.

http://www.nansgaminggear.net/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TY-147A

For 15 USD compared to Phanteks 8 USD I am not certain how much is it worth it. Here in EU the TY147A are around 10-11 EUR, while the Phanteks fans for heatsinks start at 16-19 EUR.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *isif*
> 
> Thanks. Ordered the R1 Ultimate.


Both R1 Ultimate and R1 Universal come with an extra set of XF fan clips (for 25-26.5mm thick fans).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> Try one of these.
> 
> http://www.thermalright.com/where_to_buy/where_to_buy_north-america.html
> 
> On a quick check I could only find TY147 which has a pwm range of 900-1300. What you would perfectly want is the 147A - which has a range of 300-1300.
> 
> P.S Found one.
> 
> http://www.nansgaminggear.net/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TY-147A
> 
> For 15 USD compared to Phanteks 8 USD I am not certain how much is it worth it. Here in EU the TY147A are around 10-11 EUR, while the Phanteks fans for heatsinks start at 16-19 EUR.


Just a bit of info, the TY-140, TY-141, TY-147 all idle at 600rpm with no problems.
TY-140 & TY-147 are no longer being manufactured. TY-147 is black & white version of TY-140. TY-147A is same as TY-147 with different %PWM to RPM curve.
I know the spec is 900rpm, but that is not true. Now that
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> @Dan-H,
> 
> If you want really low idle noise - I would recommend TY-147A. I am running dual 147As on my R1 and things are going rather good. They idle at around 300 RPM. The only issue with the TY147A is that you need to find some way to prevent vibration on the mount. Some people use those little silicon pads that you put on your furniture (sorry, no idea how to name them in a proper manner). I like to take rubber mounting screws and cut off a piece.
> 
> 
> 
> Dual TYs at 900 RPM sound similar to an XF at 780. And the dual TYs never went over 450 rpm when rendering with Maya and 3rd party render engines. I have anywhere from 9 to 12 C difference between rendering and Prime 95.
> 
> Though the Phanteks fans are supposedly rather good. Never had one to try out - couldn't find any of them for sale with 120mm mount when I was searching for replacement fans. I am really interested if you can post RPM to C bench. I know C to Noise table is much more useful, but we can't really measure that accurately now, can we - after all we are not professional reviewers.


I think I asked before but can't remember your answer.








Are your CPU temps based on room or actual cooler intake air temps. IIRC you said room, but it shouldn't make a difference unless the TY-147A is moving more air near top of RPM curve and some of the cooler exhaust is not being vented, thus circling around and pre-heating the air going into front of cooler. In your case, (no pun) the temperature difference is so little it doesn't matter. But with hi-performance fans like TY-143 and FHP141that move almost twice what a normal 140mm fan moves it becomes a critical difference.


----------



## Shneiky

@doyll,

Yes, temps are based off of room temp, simply because I did not (and still don't) have a probe i can stuck to the front of the cooler.

But on the other point - I have to disagree - the exhaust is even more than sufficient. The result is exactly the same in open air as it is in my case (like in computer case, not the pun). The 2 exhaust fans were running at 1500 rpm via my fan controller - though temperatures even at 800 rpm exhausts were withing 0.5c error of margin (I run slightly negative air pressure concentrated around the CPU, and I run a very low power consuming video card - which i almost never use to its full potential). Temperatures stayed the same as when I had no exhaust fans (hence - no restriction) and the side panel off.

Thus I concluded that my exhaust is sufficient for 1300 RPM TY147A or XF140. Of course - if you cram one of those 2500 rpm ugly orange beasts - it will be a very different matter. But for the sake of me - I never run a fan over 800/900 rpm. I prefer to buy a new case, new cooler and new case fans, than to deal with the horrible noise.

P.S

Btw, the vibrations I was experiencing with the TY147A at 1300 RPM has reduces. I guess they needed some time to work. Thank you for recommending them. Great fans, only - point is the color


----------



## Curiosity

The C7 keeps getting more good reviews.









However, the large amount of reviews really isn't helping me be patient. ;P

Techpowerup
Awardfabrik.de
i2hard.ru
FunkyKit
Dondan
Xtremesystems


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *therealjustin*
> 
> I contacted Cryorig support but they insist that scratches and debris trapped under paint are normal and inevitable. For the price the least they could do is take an extra thirty seconds and make sure everything looks good before it goes in the box.


Hi @therealjustin, to sort some confusion out of situation. Our support has had a bit of discussion over your issue. What we tried to say was that some degree of defect is inevitable. Sometimes it's logistics, storage, door to door delivery, unboxing handling or even an especially dusty day at the factory can all cause some undesired effect to the product. We try our best to screen everything out, but eventually being human minor differences in standards happen.

I definitely support your case in that a customer should not settle with something they are not satisfied with. This is the exact reason why we have warranty and RMA clauses to protect customers so that if they receive a product that does perform or look up to par then they can return/refund it. The reason why our support officer made the comments about manufacturing limits is that we want to truthfully tell the situation as it is, perfection is in the eye of the beholder.

"This part is not easily removable. I would have to say that this problem is something out of our control and can be caused by the slightest debris and handling during packaging and manufacturing. If you would like, you can still try to process this RMA request through Newegg, but as of current manufacturing processes go, these small blemishes on the surface is inevitable for us. So I doubt that you will find one that is 100% perfect with out any marks or scratches. Cosmetic issues aside, this problem will not cause any harm to performance."


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> If I was you I would of already asked for a refund. . . When I buy something new I expect it to be new, without scratches or bubbles from debris that got caught under the paint, especially on a $90 heatsink. My r1's paint is flawless and so should be all of them. Don't take the bs excuse that it is normal/inevitalbe, rma it again and if they refuse to exchange it shame on you cryorig.


Hi @Kenpachi7144, I'm with you on this. We definitely support any returns if the user is not satisfied with their purchase (human mal-treatment aside.) But as a manufacturer of goods even Apple iPhones with a fully automated state of the art assembly line have a chance to have phones that are slightly off. Basically what I'm trying to say is that Warranty and RMA procedures exists for this reason. We completely support users returning/refunding something they don't like.


----------



## Shneiky

Hey, @Steve-S is back again. Steve, are you allowed to share any info on the Z1?


----------



## Steve-S

Hey @Shneiky, there's not much information we can disclose yet. We are taking a bit of time to reconfigure the whole product. In it's initial sample model it did not take into some real world limitations such as compatibility and height. It was more of a proof of concept that the axial aligned fin arrangement worked and was efficient. Now what we're doing is applying the design to real world scenarios of different platforms and PC Chassis.
All I can say now is that the Z1 will be round, lol.


----------



## Curiosity

If I can bother you about the C7 Steve-S, last I heard we were expecting end of October, beginning of November, it's getting close to December now.
Am I right to think at this point it out of yall's hands?
I've yet to be able to find one for sale in the US.

Not tring to come across mean or anything, just curious and a little impatient/ excited.


----------



## Shneiky

Thanks @Steve-S. Keep up the good work.


----------



## mr squishy

@Steve-S
Do you know if the Z1 cooler will be available by the end of the year?


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Curiosity*
> 
> If I can bother you about the C7 Steve-S, last I heard we were expecting end of October, beginning of November, it's getting close to December now.
> Am I right to think at this point it out of yall's hands?
> I've yet to be able to find one for sale in the US.
> 
> Not tring to come across mean or anything, just curious and a little impatient/ excited.


Some shipping and supply issues caused major delays to our USA shipment. But from what I am hearing, it will be all in Newegg's warehouse......... TOMORROW!!!!
Give and take 1~2 business for processing tops, the C7 should be available on Newegg before the end of the week!


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> @Steve-S
> Do you know if the Z1 cooler will be available by the end of the year?


Definitely not this year. We're aiming at general availability before the end of 2016. Sorry guys. Manufacturing process is new, design is new, it takes time.








But we should have a solid information update by the time for Computex 2016 (around June.)


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> @Steve-S
> Do you know if the Z1 cooler will be available by the end of the year?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> Try one of these.
> 
> http://www.thermalright.com/where_to_buy/where_to_buy_north-america.html
> 
> On a quick check I could only find TY147 which has a pwm range of 900-1300. What you would perfectly want is the 147A - which has a range of 300-1300.
> 
> P.S Found one.
> 
> http://www.nansgaminggear.net/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TY-147A
> 
> For 15 USD compared to Phanteks 8 USD I am not certain how much is it worth it. Here in EU the TY147A are around 10-11 EUR, while the Phanteks fans for heatsinks start at 16-19 EUR.


Thanks.

nansgaminggear has them in stock, but a pair of TY147A fans will be $46.28 USD after tax and shipping.

The TY147A price ( $ 14.95) is almost the same as the Phanteks PH-F140HP ( $14.49 ) but shipping at nansgaminggear is $ 12.60.

I think I misled on the purchase cost. The price for the Phanteks was $29.00 plus about $3 tax. I was buying another item and needed a $26 "filler" item to get the total purchase over $200 so I could use a $25 cash back credit on $200.

The two Phantek fans were my filler item and the net out of pocket for these two fans was just under $ 8.

I'll see how these do and keep the TY147As on my someday maybe list.

Thanks again.


----------



## Curiosity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Some shipping and supply issues caused major delays to our USA shipment. But from what I am hearing, it will be all in Newegg's warehouse......... TOMORROW!!!!
> Give and take 1~2 business for processing tops, the C7 should be available on Newegg before the end of the week!


Oh man, that's fantastic news!

...I'm unreasonably excited to hear that actually, I'm kind of embarrassed, haha.

Thanks a ton for keeping up updated!


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Curiosity*
> 
> Oh man, that's fantastic news!
> 
> ...I'm unreasonably excited to hear that actually, I'm kind of embarrassed, haha.
> 
> Thanks a ton for keeping up updated!


NP!
We've been waiting for it to be available for a long time too! Also, I'm also on Hard Forum. But something wrong with my account that has been preventing me from posting, since 2012...... Should ask Kyle to help me out.


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Definitely not this year. We're aiming at general availability before the end of 2016. Sorry guys. Manufacturing process is new, design is new, it takes time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But we should have a solid information update by the time for Computex 2016 (around June.)


Aw that's unfortunate, I was gonna ask for one for Christmas








No worries though, it'll definitely go on the list for next year!


----------



## Colin_MC

R1 + TY147A


----------



## wanako

I'm REALLY tempted to sell the Noctua L9i in my wife's system just to buy the C7, just to support you guys. I've become such a big fan in the last few weeks after I got those two H5's. so much want!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Possibly the system still adjusting the items.
> 
> Canadian Dollars and all types of money (except bit coin) is good enough for CRYORIG!
> The problem lies in Newegg's and Amazon's shipping system, there'e no way to ship out to Canada from their US based warehouse.
> And as of right now, the logistics fulfillment options aren't practical enough for us to provide the products at a reasonable price point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Newegg is promising us that they will be able to ship out to Canada next year, but we're still crossing our fingers on this.


Ouch, saddening to hear it's been bumped back to sometime next year for Canadian purchase through Newegg.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Possibly the system still adjusting the items.
> 
> Canadian Dollars and all types of money (except bit coin) is good enough for CRYORIG!
> The problem lies in Newegg's and Amazon's shipping system, there'e no way to ship out to Canada from their US based warehouse.
> And as of right now, the logistics fulfillment options aren't practical enough for us to provide the products at a reasonable price point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Newegg is promising us that they will be able to ship out to Canada next year, but we're still crossing our fingers on this.


That's interesting. I order from newegg.ca frequently (too frequently) and many times I'll have to pay extra shipping from their US warehouses because they don't have stock in their stingy little 100 sq ft Ontario warehouse. In fact I just went to order a few things and added a couple led strips - those were marked as coming from the USA with the shipping cost separate from the in-Canada shipping charge for the other items.

So, if they're telling you that there's no way to ship Cryorig from their USA warehouses to Canada, then know that's the exception and not the rule. My personal feeling is they just don't want that sort of advanced cooling technology falling into those cold Canuck knuckles. Besides, why would anyone in the great frozen land of Canada want anything cooler?


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wanako*
> 
> I'm REALLY tempted to sell the Noctua L9i in my wife's system just to buy the C7, just to support you guys. I've become such a big fan in the last few weeks after I got those two H5's. so much want!


Probably we should start a trade up program lol. But no.... we don't want beige!


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> That's interesting. I order from newegg.ca frequently (too frequently) and many times I'll have to pay extra shipping from their US warehouses because they don't have stock in their stingy little 100 sq ft Ontario warehouse. In fact I just went to order a few things and added a couple led strips - those were marked as coming from the USA with the shipping cost separate from the in-Canada shipping charge for the other items.
> 
> So, if they're telling you that there's no way to ship Cryorig from their USA warehouses to Canada, then know that's the exception and not the rule. My personal feeling is they just don't want that sort of advanced cooling technology falling into those cold Canuck knuckles. Besides, why would anyone in the great frozen land of Canada want anything cooler?


Yeah, I suspected the same.
We're operating through Newegg's Marketplace in the US. And this option isn't available for the Canadian site just yet, and for the years talking to large e-tailor chains in other countries, it's increasingly hard for them to invest in new air cooling brands, most aren't willing to buy and stock CRYORIG. That's why we've been working on the marketplace ourselves. We have the enthusiasm and confidence that we have the right stuff, and we're willing to back it all up with $$$, storing as much goods as we can in North American warehouses. Which have sold out repeatedly every now and then. So we're working on both fronts, the traditional channels and also eCommerce marketplaces, but as it seems you should see us on Newegg Marketplace.CA and Amazon.ca first.


----------



## MicroCat

Thanks, Steve-S for the hopeful reply!

Canada's online store scene has become an air cooling vacuum. NCIX.com has dropped or will be dropping Noctua, Thermalright, Scythe and Phanteks. Only top tier air cooling brand they have left is Be!Quiet. Maybe you could approach them to bring some fresh air into the murky waters of the their cooling dept.

I whined to NCIX and their customer support told me to buy an AIO. Of course, I had to clear the air and told them they were drowning their customer goodwill in lower quality, higher noise products - That the whole point of web stores is to offer more choice, not less. When they got snarky, I reminded them them that their former customer is always right. ;-)

Would it be possible in the interim to open your own international eBay storefront or would that hurt your hard-won US e-tailers?

Maybe I should quit my day job and start a Canadian Air Cooling import/distribution company and start my own door-to-door enthusiast marketing campaign. Be Cooler in Canada. Has a certain flow to it.


----------



## doyll

Thanks for the info Steve!








It shows how dedicated Cryorig is to customer support.








Many other companies are not doing even half as good.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks for the info Steve!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It shows how dedicated Cryorig is to customer support.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many other companies are not doing even half as good.


This clear things up.....all this time you kept telling me that Steve was committed, I was thinking there was a straitjacket involved.......


----------



## WhiteWulfe

At MemoryExpress, some of the sales guys were telling me they repeatedly get requests from customers about Cryorig products but for some reason the purchasers haven't tried to get any in.


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Hey @Shneiky, there's not much information we can disclose yet. We are taking a bit of time to reconfigure the whole product. In it's initial sample model it did not take into some real world limitations such as compatibility and height. It was more of a proof of concept that the axial aligned fin arrangement worked and was efficient. Now what we're doing is applying the design to real world scenarios of different platforms and PC Chassis.
> All I can say now is that the Z1 will be round, lol.


Hope you guys make a 120mm fan Z1 variant for smaller and space restricted systems. Or at least make the heatpipe layout asymmetrical and fin body offset to clear all PCI-E slots like the Noctua NH-D15S. Still sticking to my Zalman CNPS9900 Max-B due it being a king in dimensional clearance and size.


----------



## therealjustin

The bits of debris under the paint is no problem, but it seems like the scratch would have been seen before it was boxed. It's just very disappointing to open up my second R1 and find a scratch right on the front of it. I really wish I could just repaint it somehow but that would _probably_ void the warranty









I noticed that the top sections are not connected to the heat pipes and are held in place by the small folded metal tabs. It might be easy to swap..


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *therealjustin*
> 
> The bits of debris under the paint is no problem, but it seems like the scratch would have been seen before it was boxed. It's just very disappointing to open up my second R1 and find a scratch right on the front of it. I really wish I could just repaint it somehow but that would _probably_ void the warranty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that the top sections are not connected to the heat pipes and are held in place by the small folded metal tabs. It might be easy to swap..


Hi Justin,

The top fin is to cover the top of the heatpipes, and is made out of metal. It is much harder to bend, unless you have the right tools. If you absolutely want to give it a try, I'll try to find a spare original part and mail it to you. However, I'll only be able to send it via international snail mail (and I do mean sloooow.)


----------



## ramsayh

Can Ripjaws V series fit with the Cryorig Ultimate?


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramsayh*
> 
> Can Ripjaws V series fit with the Cryorig Ultimate?


Yes and no, your fans will be elevated due to the height of the RAM.

Basically it will be 140mm + height of the Rip Jaws V 42mm = 182mm
Then taking off the difference from the RAM DIMMS and the CPU socket + CPU,
The R1 Ultimate's full height ends up being around 170~174mm.
So this goes back to if you have a large enough case.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramsayh*
> 
> Can Ripjaws V series fit with the Cryorig Ultimate?


As Steve said Ripjaws are 42mm plus 3mm for the socket plus 140 for fan is 185mm minus 8 is 177mm CPU clearance. You will need a case with a minimum of 177mm CPU clearance .. and that is with fan touching the case..

What motherboard and case are you using.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramsayh*
> 
> Can Ripjaws V series fit with the Cryorig Ultimate?


If you're set on getting that set of ram I would advise taking the R1 Universal route.


----------



## Dan-H

I just noticed newegg has Cryorig Black Friday sale going on.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100006519%2050102430%2040000574&IsNodeId=1&SubCategory=574&Manufactory=102430&SpeTabStoreType=1

R1 Ultimate and Universal are $80 USD free shipping, maybe less if you can leverage the mobile 5% off your entire order code.

@Mods, please delete if it isn't OK to post this here.


----------



## ruffhi

I just ordered 3 x Balanced 120mm fans for $10 each







.


----------



## Tennobanzai

Does anyone have direct experience with the C7 and Noctua L9i? Any good reviews out there?

My plan is to use my own fan, but i'm not sure how hard it will be to install except with zip ties.


----------



## Curiosity

I'm about to start testing my C7 in about 20 minutes, I had to get some recent benchmarks for my current cooling solution first.

I'm considering trying to have a new mount 3D printed to mount a larger fan, just to see if it helps or hurts anything later on.

Also unfortunately some of the fins on my C7 were bent on one side. It's not a huge deal, I bent them mostly back and they'll be under a fan anyway. But I figured I'd mention it.


----------



## Tennobanzai

Sweet! Post your results.

I'm really tempted to get it. I already have the Noctua L9i and ID-Cooling IS-VC45. Both perform similarly so I'd only go for the C7 if it has good build quality and better temps


----------



## Curiosity

Build quality is good, imo.

As for performance I don't have an L9i or IS-VC45 to test against, but in my opinion it's fine.



On my U9B-SE2 I had both fans on the ultra low noise adapters so it was inaudible at idle and load, The C7 is audible at idle and about the same noise level as my 980 under load.

I think if I put a fan on the side of the case to feed it air I might get better temps, but I'm not certain, I'll be testing that theory this afternoon.
Prime95 and firestrike were run for 20mins, firestrike was a loop of the combined test, about 25K frames rendered by the end.

In the end, I'm satisfied with the cooler. I preferred my old tower heatsink, but that won't fit into the A4-SFX so couldn't be kept.


----------



## Luckael

Just sharing.

Thinner Skylake CPU Can Get Damaged from Cooler Mounting Pressure

http://www.pcgameshardware.de/Luftkuehlung-Hardware-217993/News/Skylakegate-Kuehler-zerstoeren-Sockel-1151-CPUs-1179237/


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luckael*
> 
> Just sharing.
> 
> Thinner Skylake CPU Can Get Damaged from Cooler Mounting Pressure
> 
> http://www.pcgameshardware.de/Luftkuehlung-Hardware-217993/News/Skylakegate-Kuehler-zerstoeren-Sockel-1151-CPUs-1179237/


"Never let the truth get in the way of a good news story" applies to this big time.
Quote:


> All coolers are in fact generally compatible with Skylake sockets, but it can in some cases result in damage to CPU and motherboard when the PC is exposed to stronger shocks (eg shipping or relocation).


http://www.pcgameshardware.de/Luftkuehlung-Hardware-217993/News/Skylakegate-Kuehler-zerstoeren-Sockel-1151-CPUs-1179237/
3rd paragraph

Sounds like a handling problem rather than a mounting problem.









Moral of the story is don't throw your system around like a basketball.









Report Suggests High Pressure CPU Coolers Can Damage Skylake Processors
John Williamson / 2 hours ago
Quote:


> Intel's latest architecture requires a new LGA 1151 socket and features an enhanced pin count. Additionally, the CPUs are built on a 14nm manufacturing process. Some of you might remember that Skylake retail samples do not ship with a stock heatsink which raised concerns about temperatures. Thankfully, Skylake is very efficient with improved thermal dissipation. Here we can see the difference in size between Intel's official Skylake heatsink and the previous generation.
> 
> However, according to PCGamesHardware.de, CPU coolers exhibiting high pressure mounts could damage the 1151 socket and Skylake CPUs. One theory suggests this is due to Skylake's reduced thickness which makes the CPU flex under pressure due to a lack of mechanical stability. Therefore, any cooler which adopts a hefty clamping force is capable of pushing the CPU into the socket and damaging both the motherboard and CPU pins.
> 
> This is clearly a very worrying turn of events, and PCGamesHardware contacted a number of cooler manufacturers to see clarification. Here's is a complete rundown of the replies:
> 
> Scythe:
> _"The company Scythe EU GmbH announces that on several coolers from its portfolio, a change of the mounting system for Skylake / plinth is made 1151stAll coolers are in fact generally compatible with Skylake sockets, but it can in some cases result in damage to CPU and motherboard when the PC is exposed to stronger shocks (eg shipping or relocation). To prevent this, the pressure was reduced by an adjustment of the screw set. We will send the new set of screws you also like to charge. Please send your request via email [email protected] or use the contact form on our website(http://www.scythe-eu.com/support/technische-anfragen.html)."_
> 
> Noctua:
> _"Our SecuFirm2 mounting systems are subjected to prior to the release of new platforms an extensive compatibility testing. It could be determined with reference to the Intel LGA1151 platform ("Skylake") no problems. Also on the part of our customers and our specialist resellers and system integration partners we have no reports of any problems. Our SecuFirm2 mounting systems access (with the exception of some more compact models of the L-series) for generating the necessary contact pressure on coil springs back, which allow a certain degree of flexibility both in terms of tolerances in the height as well as the case of vibrations or other forces. Compared with conventional spring-less installation systems where pressure is produced exclusively by the deformation of the mounting brackets, so can reduce the mechanical load on the CPU, and motherboard socket and any damage can be prevented by excessive force."_
> 
> EKWB:
> _"All EK Water Blocks EK-Supremacy Series CPU Water Blocks - Including the latest -MX and -EVO variants - are fully Complying with Intel Socket imposed H3 (LGA-1151) Mechanical force limitation. The clamping force, created by our PreciseMount spring loaded mounting mechanism, is well within the allowed mechanical limitations. The design of PreciseMount itself Prevents over-tightening and damage to mechnical Possible Either socket or the CPU packaging.
> 
> Older generation of (physically) compatible LGA-1151 Water Blocks with classic, undefined clamping ForceType mouting mechanism such as Supreme LTX - requires special attention When attaching the water block. As a result the use of search Waterblocks is not recommended with the LGA-1151 socket CPUs."_
> 
> Today, we received a statement from ARCTIC about their CPU cooler range and the effect it has on Skylake CPUs and 1151 motherboards:
> 
> ARCTIC:
> _"With this official statement we would like to assure that ARCTIC coolers are not affected by these problems - and thus fully Skylake compatible. All ARCTIC CPU Coolers complies concerning the released sockets with the mechanical specification from Intel. With our coolers there are no problems on Intel CPUs of the 6th generation (Skylake) for LGA 1151. Depending on the parcel service drop heights of over 2 m can not be excluded. Therefore we recommend regardless of the CPU used to carefully evaluate the dispatch and the packaging used and to possibly mount larger and heavier CPU coolers by the end user."_
> 
> While this is far from ideal and illustrates a major flaw in Intel's production, cooler manufacturers should be able to complete thorough testing and judge the probability of damage occurring. Thankfully, many have released statements pretty quickly, and it remains to be seen how much force is actually needed to cause damage. Currently, it seems like the issue is only effecting coolers with a very heavy mount point. As a result, there's no need to panic but this is something which needs clarification from Intel and further research.


http://www.eteknix.com/report-suggestake-processors/


----------



## isif

I got my cooler yesterday and of course, it looks pretty sweet. The mounting system is simply awesome.

I ended up just installing it in the default orientation and moving the memory to slots 2 and 4. If I end up needing more than 32GB of memory I might to need to adjust things around though..

Fans are louder than I'd like but should be ok with low noise adapters.


----------



## doyll

Looks good!
You should be able to set the fan speed curves so unless you are working CPU hard the fans will stay at idle (700rpm)


----------



## GHADthc

Not sure if this is the right thread to post this in, but I've been pondering about which of the top dual-tower heat sinks comes out as the TOP when equipped with beefy fans like the TY-143's, I plan to get some of these fans, and depending on which heatsink is considered the best as of the moment, will dictate how many I get (2 or 3).

I've had experience with the PH-TC1PE (only ever used stock fans on it), the R1 (Installed it in my brothers rig, only tested with stock fans as well, and didn't push too hard) and as of the moment I've been using the Assassin II with its stock fans (not very impressed with the performance of the stock fans, they are quiet, but don't push much air)...I'm wondering whether to sell this Assassin II off and get one of the other aforementioned heat sinks with a set of TY-143's, I'm just interested in which would be my best option.

I mite even for the sake of this thread get the TY-143's first and test them on the Assassin II to see how it stacks up.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GHADthc*
> 
> Not sure if this is the right thread to post this in, but I've been pondering about which of the top dual-tower heat sinks comes out as the TOP when equipped with beefy fans like the TY-143's, I plan to get some of these fans, and depending on which heatsink is considered the best as of the moment, will dictate how many I get (2 or 3).
> 
> I've had experience with the PH-TC1PE (only ever used stock fans on it), the R1 (Installed it in my brothers rig, only tested with stock fans as well, and didn't push too hard) and as of the moment I've been using the Assassin II with its stock fans (not very impressed with the performance of the stock fans, they are quiet, but don't push much air)...I'm wondering whether to sell this Assassin II off and get one of the other aforementioned heat sinks with a set of TY-143's, I'm just interested in which would be my best option.
> 
> I mite even for the sake of this thread get the TY-143's first and test them on the Assassin II to see how it stacks up.


Not really the right thread for your question. I suggest you start a thread about TY-143 fan use on different coolers. Also just changing cooler fans is not all that needs to be done. TY-143 flow almost twice the air of normal cooler fans, and if case is not move twice as much air as well the cooler they are on will be forced to re-uses it's on heated exhaust air .. meaning it will be trying to cool with hotter an hotter air .. meaning higher and higher CPU temps.


----------



## miguelbazil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *isif*
> 
> The mounting system is simply awesome.


I'd like to underline this specific point. When I had a Cryorig on my hands, it was the most practical mounting system I had on my hands ever (not that I had a lot, but it was definitely impressive vs all the rest). Cryorig has a few nice things, but the mounting system to me is simply the best part of it. Add in the generally great price/capacity ratio and it's a win. They are definitely getting recommended when possible on the portuguese forum I participate in.


----------



## doyll

The Cryorig mount is so good some users have broken the crossbar screws trying to tighten them too much. They go in so easy right up to the time they stop .. and if you try and tighten them any more, especially with the leverage of the "L" screwdriver they can be broken.


----------



## ruffhi

I've changed my HTPC build to a full ATX board in a SilverstoneTek GD09B only to find that my Cryorig C1 is too big. Who would have thought that this 'small' cooler could be too big.

So ... it is the C7 or the M9i / M9a for me. Anyone got any suggestions on which? I do prefer a tower. BTW - what is the difference between the M9i and the M9a?

Edit: oooh - i for Intel and a for AMD


----------



## doyll

To all wondering about all the hype in the news involving LGA 1151 mount damage Cryorig has said;

Quick summary:
_]In the cases that have been reported by media, it holds true that these issues have only been observed in "Pre-Built" systems. These systems have the heatsink installed before shipping, which are subjective to both point A+B. Thus if a heatsink already has high mounting pressure with no system of flexibility, heavy weight and is tossed around during shipping, then the force of the heatsink is possible to bend at the softest point. In this case the softest point is the Skylake PCB_.
Quote:


> We at CRYORIG have the following information and statement to make, regarding the recent news and discussion regarding damaged PCB's on Skylake CPU's, which many in the industry believe is caused by abnormal heatsink mounting pressure during transportation of the PC system. First of all we want to assure users of CRYORIG products that currently no CRYORIG heatsinks have displayed this problem, either through media reports, third party sales channels or internal testing. CRYORIG heatsinks are fully compatible with socket 1151 processors, and follow specifications set forth by CPU manufacturers. But as a note of precaution we suggest users to lay their PC system flat (with the heatsink in a vertical position) whenever they are transporting their PC system.
> 
> Based on the information and testing reports we currently have at hand, although CRYORIG's own products did not show this problem, we have derived the following suggestions and insight into the Skylake PCB damage problem. From our observation the cause of the bent/damaged PCB is caused by the combination of two factors.
> 
> A) High mounting pressure from the CPU heatsink mounting system, with no flexibility in the system.
> B) Increased directional force created by the weight of the heatsink and movement of the PC chassis.
> 
> In the cases that have been reported by media, it holds true that these issues have only been observed in "Pre-Built" systems. These systems have the heatsink installed before shipping, which are subjective to both point A+B. Thus if a heatsink already has high mounting pressure with no system of flexibility, heavy weight and is tossed around during shipping, then the force of the heatsink is possible to bend at the softest point. In this case the softest point is the Skylake PCB.
> 
> According to our hypothesis, then what makes CRYORIG heatsinks safe? In our own product line we have two different mounting systems. First is the MultiSeg on our heavier products, then there is the X-Bar and MultiSeg Light. The MultiSeg Quick Mount System uses a sturdy Medium Carbon Steel backplate. We chose the Medium Carbon Steel for it's high tensile strength, which protects the mainboard from bending when using heavier heatsinks like the R1 or H5. In combination with a highly rigid backplate, the spring screw system is what provides the downwards-clamping mounting force. This combination of a tough frame and a relatively softer point of flexibility is the key to why CRYORIG products are not seen damaging the CPU PCB. When extra vector/directional force is exhibited on the heatsink (such as during transport), the softest point in the system always gives. In this case the spring screws will deform to absorb the extra external force, much like a suspension system.
> 
> In our lighter products, the X-Bar and MultiSeg Light mounting systems omit the rigid steel backplate for a 30% Fiber Glass PBT. The lighter weight of our H7/M9 and C7 heatsinks creates less stress on the mainboard, which is why the steel backplate is not needed. Also, using a Fiber Glass filled PBT has multiple benefits.
> 
> Material Modulus of Elasticity (The Higher the more Rigid)
> 
> 30% Fiber Glass PBT 15.0 GPa Max
> 
> Medium Carbon Steel 213.0 GPa Max
> 
> The Modulus of Elasticity for 30% Fiber Glass PBT is 15.0 GPa, while Medium Carbon Steel is 213 GPa. The combination of structural support and elasticity, allows these backplate system to still have a point of flexibility when extra force is exerted. The lighter weight of the product itself also makes it safer when directional force is exhibited.
> 
> In all, although caution should always be exhibited when transporting delicate electronics, we want our consumers to feel safe about their CRYORIG product. Our finely tuned mounting kits are safe to use. Moreover, stationary PC's do not have anything to worry about either./QUOTE]
> http://www.cryorig.com/news.php?id=52&page=1


----------



## miklkit

Then this is an old issue. It has been standard practice for years for responsible builders to remove the tower heat sink and ship it separately and then have it installed at the end point.


----------



## doyll

Indeed.

That said, it is entirely possible the 1151 PCB is not as strong as the older ones .. and that previously the pre-builders got away with shipping with coolers mounted with few problems. OcUK ship pre-built with coolers, and every so often buyers have to be given replacements. Just because they got away with it in the past does not mean it's right.







But 1151 is still stronger than specified load rating.


----------



## crashoverburn

Just got Cryorig A80, damn this CLC really good. The fan really push so much air and the noise is pleasing compare to my old Corsair H110i gt. My i7-6700k at 4.6Ghz hardly reach 60c(my room temp around 30-32c) when CPU intense gaming session.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crashoverburn*
> 
> Just got Cryorig A80, damn this CLC really good. The fan really push so much air and the noise is pleasing compare to my old Corsair H110i gt. My i7-6700k at 4.6Ghz hardly reach 60c(my room temp around 30-32c) when CPU intense gaming session.


That's music to my ears.








How is the noise level?


----------



## crashoverburn

The fan sound is really pleasing. Even at full rpm I can call it "silent" compare to Corsair performance fans. I can't compare with other fan coz at my country fan like EKWB, GT, Cougar, etc is not exist.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crashoverburn*
> 
> Just got Cryorig A80, damn this CLC really good. The fan really push so much air and the noise is pleasing compare to my old Corsair H110i gt. My i7-6700k at 4.6Ghz hardly reach 60c(my room temp around 30-32c) when CPU intense gaming session.


The better temps are to be expected - Aseteks have always outperformed CoolIts.

I'll take the noise comment with a grain of salt.....it would be incredibly difficult for anything not to be more pleasant sounding than an H110i GT.


----------



## crashoverburn

Didn't know about that, but Corsair fans/CLC is really overrated including Noctua fans. LOL

Around 1200rpm the sound is unnoticeable and the sound is on par with PH-F140SP. Then at around 1600rpm the fan noise is slightly loud but I still can play a game without noticing it and this my average speed for fan setting. And at around 1800rpm-2200rpm+- the sound is more like hairdryer. LOL. But the noise is OK for my ear not like the Corsair fans. I will say Noctua industrial fan noise is on par with this fan.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crashoverburn*
> 
> The fan sound is really pleasing. Even at full rpm I can call it "silent" compare to Corsair performance fans. I can't compare with other fan coz at my country fan like EKWB, GT, Cougar, etc is not exist.


Nice looking system.








What is the cooler on your GPU?

I'm hoping to get a chance at testing A80, but only time will tell.


----------



## EastKingZ

Just installed my H7 and started overclocking. Now I want to get the A40 but it's only been a week! It looks great in my case, fills it in nicely. What's the shortest you've gone between changing coolers? I've got an itch and it needs to be scratched.....


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice looking system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is the cooler on your GPU?


That is the MSI branded Corsair.


----------



## crashoverburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice looking system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is the cooler on your GPU?
> 
> I'm hoping to get a chance at testing A80, but only time will tell.


GTX 980 Ti Sea Hawk


----------



## Drumma

I have a quick question, I currently have a H7 with push pull fans on my fx8250 but am reaching pretty high temps (68ish) this trying to overclock past 4.3 which seems to need over 1.44v for this chip. Will switching over to a R1 be a big change in temps and allow me to reach a higher oc while staying below 60c.


----------



## miklkit

The H7 only has 3 heat pipes, so yes you will get a higher OC with an R1. But how much will depend on your case air flow as much as the cooler.

1.44v for 4.3 is pretty high as that usually gives 4.5-4.6 ghz. It could be the too small cooler causing that, or other factors like the motherboard.


----------



## Drumma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> The H7 only has 3 heat pipes, so yes you will get a higher OC with an R1. But how much will depend on your case air flow as much as the cooler.
> 
> 1.44v for 4.3 is pretty high as that usually gives 4.5-4.6 ghz. It could be the too small cooler causing that, or other factors like the motherboard.


I'm at 1.408 for 4.3, trying to get up to 4.4 I had to stop at 1.44 once I saw my temps starting to shoot up to much. My mobo is the msi 990fxa gaming, my case air flow could be better but I was thinking of getting a new case also if I wound up getting the r1. Basicly for the price I was wondering if it was a good option over liquid cooling or if I should just go liquid?


----------



## miklkit

If you have not read this thread I heartily suggest you do as it is full of tips from a pro.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1577875/msi-990fxa-gaming-a-casual-review

My 8350 can do 4.5 ghz on 1.4vcore and it is pretty average. Air cooling really can't handle much more than 1.5 vcore and usually less, so that will limit your OC. The rule for AMD is: If you can cool it, you can clock it.

Unless you are unkowingly doing something wrong it looks like you lost the silicon lottery and should not set any goals but just go where the hardware takes you. The 8350 is very tough. I know one person who has been pushing 1.7vcore through his for 2 years now, but it has an excellent supporting cast and lots of radiators and fans. In your situation a good air cooler is probably the best way to go, and just get what you can whithout letting the temps get out of control.


----------



## doyll

What miklkit said.








Also even with an R1 you are still playing the silicone lottery. The overclocking heat curve line climbs progressively faster the higher the OC, until it goes near vertical. At higher levels the only way to cool it is liquid nitrogen .. and even it has it's limits.


----------



## Pente

Sweclockers ran tests and did review of the R1 ult
http://www.sweclockers.com/test/21342-cryorig-r1-ultimate


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pente*
> 
> Sweclockers ran tests and did review of the R1 ult
> http://www.sweclockers.com/test/21342-cryorig-r1-ultimate


Thanks for the link, but the testing procedure is flawed.
Testing in a case using room ambient temperature and saying it is to give"realistic result" is totally unreal.








They are not testing cooler to compare their performance against each other, but instead are testing their system with different coolers to see how it performs with different coolers. How many of us have the same system they have? Because those are the only people that can use their results as comparisons of how it might perform for them. Also, the case intake fans having a maximum free air flow rate of 56.1cfm at 1000rpm are only running 600-650rpm with a filter and grill restricting their flow rate of 76cfm at 1300rpm (staking does not increase maximum cfm, but it does increase the airflow against resistance). This means the intake fans are moving very little air compared to the stacked 140mm XF140 fans. Add to this the case exhaust fan rated 56cfm free air is mounted on a grill reducing it by 15-20% so it's flowing about 45cfm to cooler fans' 70cfm. This all means the actual temperature of air going into the cooler is much warmer than the room air they are using as baseline air temperature.

Their dBA reading are also misleading. Having sound meter is 10cm from fan means their full speed reading of 49.0dBA is really about 29dBA, because normally sound readings are base at 1meter from source. This means that if system is setting 1.5 meter away from user they probably will not hear it.

Nothing new about their procedure. Most review tests are done this way .. and is why we see such huge differences in results from review site to review site.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pente*
> 
> Sweclockers ran tests and did review of the R1 ult
> http://www.sweclockers.com/test/21342-cryorig-r1-ultimate


Talk about being late to the party.....over a year, and many reviews, since its release.


----------



## Drumma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> If you have not read this thread I heartily suggest you do as it is full of tips from a pro.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1577875/msi-990fxa-gaming-a-casual-review
> 
> My 8350 can do 4.5 ghz on 1.4vcore and it is pretty average. Air cooling really can't handle much more than 1.5 vcore and usually less, so that will limit your OC. The rule for AMD is: If you can cool it, you can clock it.
> 
> Unless you are unkowingly doing something wrong it looks like you lost the silicon lottery and should not set any goals but just go where the hardware takes you. The 8350 is very tough. I know one person who has been pushing 1.7vcore through his for 2 years now, but it has an excellent supporting cast and lots of radiators and fans. In your situation a good air cooler is probably the best way to go, and just get what you can whithout letting the temps get out of control.


Thank you for the advice, I've read that a few time just in case and maybe I have lost the lottery =/. Makes me sad since Im planning on waiting until zen before replacing anything major. My last thought is maybe it would have something to do with Windows 10.


----------



## miklkit

I didn't notice anything different when I moved to winx. Egad! Prices on FX are going up right now.


----------



## Drumma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I didn't notice anything different when I moved to winx. Egad! Prices on FX are going up right now.


Yea they pretty high up there, makes me sad I seem to of lost the lottery.


----------



## doyll

I see the A40, A40 Ultimate and A80 are now available here in UK on ebuyer.com
This is my rendition of Cryorig's and they have not verified or said it is accurate or correct. So while based on their drawing it may not be correct. On theirs there a couple errors, like specs say A80 radiator is 120mm wide, but but drawing says 140mm. I think it is save to assume it is 140mm wide.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I see the A40, A40 Ultimate and A80 are now available here in UK on ebuyer.com
> This is my rendition of Cryorig's and they have not verified or said it is accurate or correct. So while based on their drawing it may not be correct. On theirs there a couple errors, like specs say A80 radiator is 120mm wide, but but drawing says 140mm. I think it is save to assume it is 140mm wide.


Since this is the air cooling forum, shouldn't there be a separate thread for these?

Maybe in the "Almost Exactly, But Not Entirely, Unlike Liquid Cooling Forum"? That forum should really exist for CLC unicorn chatter.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That forum should really exist for CLC unicorn chatter.


No! Wrong! Unexceptionable! Rude! Obnoxious!
Slandering unicorns by placing CLC right next to them is reason to be hung with cooked spaghetti.









CLC are more like trolls, goblins, witches and vampires.









Edit: The lump of coal I was sending over for your Xmas stocking. Forget it!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No! Wrong! Unexceptionable! Rude! Obnoxious!
> Slandering unicorns by placing CLC right next to them is reason to be hung with cooked spaghetti.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CLC are more like trolls, goblins, witches and vampires.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: The lump of coal I was sending over for your Xmas stocking. Forget it!


Now, now.....I was not insulting unicorns (though I would poke fun at Broneys without a second thought). Merely saying that most of the spewings of CLC users tends to be as factual as the existence of unicorns. You know, the "I changed my fans to Noctuas, and lowering the airflow and static pressure dropped my temps by thirty degrees!!!!!".....right after it was sprinkled with unicorn dust.

CLC chatter does not belong in the liquid cooling forum (while they contain liquid, that is their only common trait with custom liquid), nor does it belong in air cooling. It should have it's own forum section. Maybe "Cooling With No Regard to Reality", "Post Your Ridiculous Fabrications Here".


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Now, now.....I was not insulting unicorns (though I would poke fun at Broneys without a second thought). Merely saying that most of the spewings of CLC users tends to be as factual as the existence of unicorns. You know, the "I changed my fans to Noctuas, and lowering the airflow and static pressure dropped my temps by thirty degrees!!!!!".....right after it was sprinkled with unicorn dust.
> 
> CLC chatter does not belong in the liquid cooling forum (while they contain liquid, that is their only common trait with custom liquid), nor does it belong in air cooling. It should have it's own forum section. Maybe "Cooling With No Regard to Reality", "Post Your Ridiculous Fabrications Here".


 Guess what arrived at the door. Posted from Taipei on the 9th.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Guess what arrived at the door. Posted from Taipei on the 9th.


Could it be a Cryorig H110i GTX61?

I'm curious to see if they solved the pump issue that made it sound exactly like the cake while Stymie iced it - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9-C5dSUKTc


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Could it be a Cryorig H110i GTX61?
> 
> I'm curious to see if they solved the pump issue that made it sound exactly like the cake while Stymie iced it - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9-C5dSUKTc


You are so cruel.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You are so cruel.


----------



## therealjustin

I'm disappointed to see that the A40 and A80 use Asetek made pumps.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *therealjustin*
> 
> I'm disappointed to see that the A40 and A80 use Asetek made pumps.


And radiators....and blocks....and tubing. That is the CLC game. People assume that the different logo means a different cooler....basically just means a different logo and fans.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> And radiators....and blocks....and tubing. That is the CLC game. People assume that the different logo means a different cooler....basically just means a different logo and fans.


And this is the reason that I steer clear of CLC and have and R1. . . When taking the liquid cooling route, go custom loop or go home.


----------



## doyll

What ciarlatano said








Asetek holds the patent, so anyone building a similar product legally, has to pay them to do so. So without competition their is no motivation to improve product. As more companies slapped their logos on Asetek sales were good. Only thing that will change that is loss of customer base. I think that is happening now, but they had years of good sales based on "water cooling" media hype. Now many CLC users are moving back to air.

I'm hoping to have more info next week.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> And this is the reason that I steer clear of CLC and have and R1. . . When taking the liquid cooling route, go custom loop or go home.


Which is precisely why I have an R1 Ultimate in one build, a custom loop in another.....and a closet filled with essentially every CLC that has been released in the last four years. And that is exactly where those CLCs will stay until they are no longer applicable for comparison testing, at which point they will be dropped into the nearest trash disposal. Only way I would possibly use one is if I went suddenly deaf. And even then I would prefer using air....since that doesn't destroy your MB headers when the pump goes bad.

On the other hand, I would absolutely use a Swiftech H220-X or H240-X. But that is essentially simply a pre-assembled custom loop, or the "anti-CLC".

That said, I have no ill feelings toward Cryorig for milking this cash cow while they can. If any company deserves to see some rewards, it is Cryorig. Over the last year they have produced top product after top product built from the ground up, while marketing companies slap their logo on these off the shelf pieces of.....and reap the rewards. When this cash cow goes dry, it will be companies like Cryorig left standing with a viable product line all designed and built in-house to offer. The others will be left trying to put taller heatspreaders on their RAM (which was done to try to force you to buy their CLC in the first place.....).


----------



## rapkct

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The others will be left trying to put taller heatspreaders on their RAM (which was done to try to force you to buy their CLC in the first place.....).


That's kind of why I hesitated about getting an R1 Ultimate since it's obvious my G.skills (Ripjaws X) will get in the way. How much compromise I'm paying for if I go for the Universal route?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rapkct*
> 
> That's kind of why I hesitated about getting an R1 Ultimate since it's obvious my G.skills (Ripjaws X) will get in the way. How much compromise I'm paying for if I go for the Universal route?


It would depend on your system and OC.

Typically, you would be sacrificing 2-3 degrees, which is essentially nothing.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rapkct*
> 
> That's kind of why I hesitated about getting an R1 Ultimate since it's obvious my G.skills (Ripjaws X) will get in the way. How much compromise I'm paying for if I go for the Universal route?


Cooler difference are only in the offset of pipes and fins.

*This is all in the information about R1 cooler is in the first couple of posts of this thread!*
The same place it is in most threads like this.
I enjoy helping people figure things out, but I get a little fed up with people who ask questions rather than look at what is readily availbe showing them the answers the seek. Key word is "*help"* .. meaning both parties are working on it, not one doing ti for the other.

All specifications, detailed measurement drawings, Ultimate to Universal comparison dimensional drawings, etc are there for R1 coolers.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Anyone here have the C1 on the ASRock Z170 ITX gaming fatality wondering how it will fit


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Anyone here have the C1 on the ASRock Z170 ITX gaming fatality wondering how it will fit


Effortlessly. There is nothing on that board that would interfere with the C1.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Anyone here have the C1 on the ASRock Z170 ITX gaming fatality wondering how it will fit
> 
> 
> 
> Effortlessly. There is nothing on that board that would interfere with the C1.
Click to expand...

Except for access to any fan headers and those that might want to put fans near the motherboard. The C1 is a beast and I have recently tried to put it in a Silverstonetek GD09B on an ATX motherboard (ASRock H97 Pro4). It interfered with the side fans (2 x 120mm) and the rear fans (2 x 80mm). I have the room in the GD09B so I have gone with the M9i instead.

I was using in an ITX build with a ASRock H97M-ITX/ac LGA 1150 Intel - that was a tight fit but there we no close by case fans to cause interference.

The C1 is a lovely and effective cooler if you can fit it and you don't have any case fans near the motherboard.


----------



## TMatzelle60

I just want to make sure the backplate will go on fine thats my whole thing i tried to look at the area behind the motherboard and wanted to make sure and i don't think there is a problem


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> I just want to make sure the backplate will go on fine thats my whole thing i tried to look at the area behind the motherboard and wanted to make sure and i don't think there is a problem


There isn't.


----------



## TMatzelle60

KK Thanks i have the Phanteks EVolv ITX i Doubt ill have any clearance issue with the back or top fans


----------



## Steve-S

Hey guys,

It's the end of the year and we're giving away a custom made goody like last year. Rules are still in the making, but will be announced soon. Like last year too there we're separating the events for OCN, CRYORIG.com and for all existing VIP members (If you haven't registered your product remember to register soon!!!) You can participate in all three events, the number of prizes and prize contents will be slightly different between each event. I can't say much on what it is now, but here's a small sneakpeak!


----------



## doyll

That looks aweume! Do the light flash and change colors? Like on a Xmas tree?









Guys,
This is the sort of customer support that is hard to find!
I don't know of any other company doing these kinds of things for their product owners and forum user groups.

Keep up the great support Steve!


----------



## ruffhi

Yippee. Doesn't that give you some ideas if you are unlucky enough not to win?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Oh my. Whatever it is that's a fun tease.


----------



## ruffhi

I just added a M9i to my HTPC build (case = GD09B). I must say it is much (much!) easier to install than the C1.

It is interesting to note that the motherboard back-board and support arms are still 'loose' after you have installed them - you cannot get that tight and firm. It is the installation of the tower that firms all of that up. Now I can pick up the tower wave it around without any jingling from the motherboard.

This build also has 3 QF120 Balanced fans in it. So far, I am just booting into the BIOS and having fun changing the fan profile from 'Standard' to 'Silent' (read 300RPM) to 'Performance' (2000RPM on the cooler).

I'm going to see how fast I can get the case fans going and still not hear them and then nail them to that speed. I will probably just let the M9i do its own thing re fan speed.

Once I have it all set up, I'll run some non-official, can't-be-used-to-predict-your-performance, only-good-for-my-particular-case-location-situation-etc tests and let you know how that goes.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Once I have it all set up, I'll run some non-official, can't-be-used-to-predict-your-performance, only-good-for-my-particular-case-location-situation-etc tests and let you know how that goes.


But, but, but......I need you to tell me what temps I will get on my CPU overclocked to 4.4 GHz!!!!!

And, no, I will not tell you what CPU it is, what voltage I am running it at, any of my other components or what ambient temps it will be in. You have all of the information required in the first sentence, and I want a definite accurate answer.


----------



## ruffhi

How many decimal places? F or C?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> How many decimal places? F or C?


Yes.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> How many decimal places? F or C?


:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes.











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> How many decimal places? F or C?


Either one. Both 'F' and 'C' decimal places work fine.
But neither will work on the 2nd Tuesday of next week.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Either one. Both 'F' and 'C' decimal places work fine.
> But neither will work on the 2nd Tuesday of next week.


Ok. Then what about 4.7? And will static pressure or airflow fans be better?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Ok. Then what about 4.7? And will static pressure or airflow fans be better?


i think 'U' and 'K' would be more useful.
Edit: and just enough 'blow' fan to 'flow' out the door.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> But, but, but......I!!!!!
> 
> And, no, I will not tell you what CPU it is, what voltage I am running it at, any of my other components or what ambient temps it will be in. You have all of the information required in the first sentence, and I want a definite accurate answer.


You sound like a broken engine.


----------



## ruffhi

I couldn't get my computer to boot. Bah! I'd been playing around with the front header cables (trying to put them into a single 10-pin connector) and had managed to get them around the wrong way (power switch <--> reset switch, HDD indicator <--> power indicator). Had to hit the reset button to turn it on. Bah. But it still wouldn't ... fans turned, then everything shut down.

Who knew it needed the GPU powered plugged into the PSU to turn on.

Anyway ... ideal temps are around 30 ... prime for 20-30 mins gives 48 to 50. I can cope with those types of temps.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



If you ask if that is C or F, I will reply YES.


----------



## Mythary

Recently purchased and installed the R1 Ultimate and 2 Cryorig XT140s.
Only issue so far is the cable length on the XT140s is too short to put them in the front of my
Enthoo Pro and connect them to the Phanteks PWM Hub. I had to install them in the top mounts, in order to be able to connect them to the hub.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I couldn't get my computer to boot. Bah! I'd been playing around with the front header cables (trying to put them into a single 10-pin connector) and had managed to get them around the wrong way (power switch <--> reset switch, HDD indicator <--> power indicator). Had to hit the reset button to turn it on. Bah. But it still wouldn't ... fans turned, then everything shut down.
> 
> Who knew it needed the GPU powered plugged into the PSU to turn on.
> 
> Anyway ... ideal temps are around 30 ... prime for 20-30 mins gives 48 to 50. I can cope with those types of temps.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> If you ask if that is C or F, I will reply YES.


So, if I install this in my build my computer will not boot?

But what temps will I get at 4.7 while gaming?









If I had a dime for every time I had no boot because i had forgotten to plug something in......
Sounds like it is working well for you. How is the noise? Some of the competitors are pretty irritating in terms of sound.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I couldn't get my computer to boot. Bah! I'd been playing around with the front header cables (trying to put them into a single 10-pin connector) and had managed to get them around the wrong way (power switch <--> reset switch, HDD indicator <--> power indicator). Had to hit the reset button to turn it on. Bah. But it still wouldn't ... fans turned, then everything shut down.
> 
> Who knew it needed the GPU powered plugged into the PSU to turn on.
> 
> Anyway ... ideal temps are around 30 ... prime for 20-30 mins gives 48 to 50. I can cope with those types of temps.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> If you ask if that is C or F, I will reply YES.


The Gremlins knew it. The designed it that way just to make our lives miserable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mythary*
> 
> Recently purchased and installed the R1 Ultimate and 2 Cryorig XT140s.
> Only issue so far is the cable length on the XT140s is too short to put them in the front of my
> Enthoo Pro and connect them to the Phanteks PWM Hub. I had to install them in the top mounts, in order to be able to connect them to the hub.


Why XT140 rather than XF140 fans?
They are both PWM. Phanteks did us all an injustice naming thier fan hub "Phanteks PWM fan hub" *is not a PWM fan hub*. It is a PWM *controlled* fan hub for *3-pin variable voltage fans*, not for PWM fans.
Using top as exhaust is pulling the heated air coming off of your GPU up around your CPU. Not a good idea. Would be better to use the fans in front even at fixed speed until you can get cable extensions for them.


----------



## Mythary

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Why XT140 rather than XF140 fans?
> 
> They are both PWM. Phanteks did us all an injustice naming thier fan hub "Phanteks PWM fan hub" *is not a PWM fan hub*. It is a PWM *controlled* fan hub for *3-pin variable voltage fans*, not for PWM fans.
> 
> Using top as exhaust is pulling the heated air coming off of your GPU up around your CPU. Not a good idea. Would be better to use the fans in front even at fixed speed until you can get cable extensions for them.


Simple. When ordering on Amazon I did not pay attention to the model #, I intended to buy the XF140. (strangley Amazon's sellers are running short on Cryorig and Noctua fans as of last night, the 140s I was looking at)

I currently have the hub setup to be variable off the PWM of Fan1. Fan1 is the stock Phanteks 140 on the back and the other fans go off it's speed (my current understanding of the Phanteks manual).

I have the XT140s up top because that is where they would be able to connect to the hub. I wanted to do a personal preference (non scientific) side by side test of the Cryorig 140s v Noctua NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM, in different case locations.The Noctua Redux have a longer cord so they reach the hub without issue, from the front.

My current setup is x2 NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM in the front, the R1 Ultimate Cooler w/ the stock Phanteks 140, in line, in the back and x2 XT140s up top.
To the best of my knowledge the Noctua's are pulling air in and everything else (aside from the R1) is pushing air out.
You feel I should let hot air dissipate out the top w/o any fan assistance, as the fans are possibly drawing unnecessary hot air across the CPU in the current configuration?


----------



## rpnp7

Can anyone tell me how the Cryorig C1 compares against the newly released Noctua NH-C14S in terms of cooling performance?
The reason behind comparing these 2 is because i am trying to decide which one to put inside my m-itx case - evga hadron air.

I will using only one fan on the Noctua NH-C14S which will be behind the heatsink and PUSHING/EXHAUSTING air through the heatsink. (Won't be using a 2nd fan on top of the heatsink for aesthetic reasons)
I will be pulling air through the heatsink in the Cryorig C1.

Reason behind this is because the hadron air case has 2 exhaust fans at the top and no intake so pushing cool air into the cpu doesn't really exist because the hadron air doesn't have any cool air coming into it.

Noctua NH-C14S: http://noctua.at/en/products/cpu-cooler-retail/nh-c14s.html#.VnLvS8qGZcU
Cryorig C1: http://www.cryorig.com/c1.php

I will be using the intel i7 6700k processor.
I will be using a reference Gtx 780Ti blower style Gpu.

Thanks!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpnp7*
> 
> Can anyone tell me how the Cryorig C1 compares against the newly released Noctua NH-C14S in terms of cooling performance?
> The reason behind comparing these 2 is because i am trying to decide which one to put inside my m-itx case - evga hadron air.
> 
> I will using only one fan on the Noctua NH-C14S which will be behind the heatsink and PUSHING/EXHAUSTING air through the heatsink. (Won't be using a 2nd fan on top of the heatsink for aesthetic reasons)
> I will be pulling air through the heatsink in the Cryorig C1.
> 
> Reason behind this is because the hadron air case has 2 exhaust fans at the top and no intake so pushing cool air into the cpu doesn't really exist because the hadron air doesn't have any cool air coming into it.
> 
> Noctua NH-C14S: http://noctua.at/en/products/cpu-cooler-retail/nh-c14s.html#.VnLvS8qGZcU
> Cryorig C1: http://www.cryorig.com/c1.php
> 
> I will be using the intel i7 6700k processor.
> I will be using a reference Gtx 780Ti blower style Gpu.
> 
> Thanks!


Have not used NH-C14S. But at a guess I would think C1 will do better with fan pulling from above fin pack than C14S with fan pushing from below. There should be more room for air to flow under the fin pack than you now have for air to flow under the fan.


----------



## rpnp7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have not used NH-C14S. But at a guess I would think C1 will do better with fan pulling from above fin pack than C14S with fan pushing from below. There should be more room for air to flow under the fin pack than you now have for air to flow under the fan.


The only thing that stops me is the fact that the cryorig c1 is a very low end m-itx cooler meant for well small rigs and not much cooling. The notch nh-c14s is a mid-range/high range cooler that competes with h100i's air's etc ...

Surprising to think that you would put the cryorig ahead just due to the fan placement.
I am not as experienced as many people, so i might be wrong.

Some people have said the following: "The NH-C14S is easily better. It performs better and is quieter. The C1 is a lower end cooler meant to compete with the likes of the NH-L12 and other low profile itx cooler's"


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpnp7*
> 
> The only thing that stops me is the fact that the cryorig c1 is a very low end m-itx cooler meant for well small rigs and not much cooling. The notch nh-c14s is a mid-range/high range cooler that competes with h100i's air's etc ...
> 
> Surprising to think that you would put the cryorig ahead just due to the fan placement.
> I am not as experienced as many people, so i might be wrong.


Where did you get the idea that the NHC-14 competes with the very best?


----------



## rpnp7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> Where did you get the idea that the NHC-14 competes with the very best?


In many benchmarks for cpu cooler you will see noctua nh-c14 somewhere in the benchmark charts but never see the cryorig c1 even close.
Sometimes not even on the charts.

Correct me if I'm wrong.
But is the noctua nh-c14s better then the cryorig c1?


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpnp7*
> 
> In many benchmarks for cpu cooler you will see noctua nh-c14 somewhere in the benchmark charts but never see the cryorig c1 even close.
> Sometimes not even on the charts.
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong.
> But is the noctua nh-c14s better then the cryorig c1?


No, no, I thought to begin with you were talking about the old NHC-14







I only found the Tweaktown review just now. Probably a bit off topic in here anyway.


----------



## rpnp7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> No, no, I thought to begin with you were talking about the old NHC-14
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only found the Tweaktown review just now. Probably a bit off topic in here anyway.


http://www.pcgameware.co.uk/reviews/cpu-coolers/noctua-nh-c14s-cpu-cooler-review/

10 degree difference.
The answer.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpnp7*
> 
> http://www.pcgameware.co.uk/reviews/cpu-coolers/noctua-nh-c14s-cpu-cooler-review/
> 
> 10 degree difference.
> The answer.


Perfiect example of how not to test and compare coolers ..
10c difference with a 2.5c difference in ambient temp measured on the edge of open case.








That makes it a 7.5c difference based on ambient from thermometer setting on edge of open tower case laying on it's side .. but who uses their system like this?










This is the kind of testing and comparisons I see day in and day out .. and some people believe the results.








The ambinet needs to be monitored on the cooler intake, not the edge of the case !!








That testing is worse than no testing.







Do you use your tower system laying on it's side with the side cover off?
I sure don't use mine that way!

That is hardly a valid way of testing or comparing coolers to anyone with any understanding of how testing should be done.


----------



## doyll

C1 has 4x double ended heatpipes and 2x single ended heatpipes. NH-C14S has 6 single ended heat pipes.
Only down side of C1 is the XT140 fan being a thin fan. A 25mm thick fan will give better airflow. How much this will effect cooling I don't know.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

That test is not very good and poorly done.

Currently using the C1 and have used NH-C14S. The temps I got 2c better for Noctua. Using the same fan, Noctua Redux NF-P14r PWM 1200rpm and Noctua Redux NF-P14 PWM 1200rpm. Square and round frame.
That was done on my current rig.
NH-C14S is much larger and not meant for smaller ITX cases. I still prefer the look from Cryorig and the price is much better.

I still own the Noctua NH-U12P SE2, compared to my C1 the temps were 3-5c better for Noctua due to the ability to run P/P.
But that is large cooler in my smaller S340 and took up lots of area space.

As for using the stock fan from the C1 and Noctua Redux NF-P14r PWM 1200rpm the temps difference was not even noticeable.


----------



## rpnp7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Perfiect example of how not to test and compare coolers ..
> 10c difference with a 2.5c difference in ambient temp measured on the edge of open case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That makes it a 7.5c difference based on ambient from thermometer setting on edge of open tower case laying on it's side .. but who uses their system like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the kind of testing and comparisons I see day in and day out .. and some people believe the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ambinet needs to be monitored on the cooler intake, not the edge of the case !!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That testing is worse than no testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you use your tower system laying on it's side with the side cover off?
> I sure don't use mine that way!
> 
> That is hardly a valid way of testing or comparing coolers to anyone with any understanding of how testing should be done.


Would you go for cryorig c1 or the nh-c14s for the evga hadron?
Please take under consideration that i will be using the fan to PUSH air through the heatsink via noctua or PULL air via the c1.


----------



## rpnp7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> That test is not very good and poorly done.
> 
> Currently using the C1 and have used NH-C14S. The temps I got 2c better for Noctua. Using the same fan, Noctua Redux NF-P14r PWM 1200rpm and Noctua Redux NF-P14 PWM 1200rpm. Square and round frame.
> That was done on my current rig.
> NH-C14S is much larger and not meant for smaller ITX cases. I still prefer the look from Cryorig and the price is much better.
> 
> I still own the Noctua NH-U12P SE2, compared to my C1 the temps were 3-5c better for Noctua due to the ability to run P/P.
> But that is large cooler in my smaller S340 and took up lots of area space.
> 
> As for using the stock fan from the C1 and Noctua Redux NF-P14r PWM 1200rpm the temps difference was not even noticeable.


Would you go for cryorig c1 or the nh-c14s for the evga hadron?
Please take under consideration that i will be using the fan to PUSH air through the heatsink via noctua or PULL air via the c1.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

C1 you will need low profile ram, like the one in my system. With noctua, low profile only if fan on bottom, if fan on top then you have more clearance for ram.

C1 with fan is 74mm
NH-C14S 115mm without fan. With fan on top 142mm.

C1 takes less room in height and give better airflow around without being cluttered.
Now that will vary on how each will fit on your ITX mobo.

Cryorig has a model you can print up, too see how well C1 will fit. Download the cutout for your socket version.
http://www.cryorig.com/c1.php


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpnp7*
> 
> Would you go for cryorig c1 or the nh-c14s for the evga hadron?
> Please take under consideration that i will be using the fan to PUSH air through the heatsink via noctua or PULL air via the c1.


I would use Cryorig C1. Worst case is you might what a thicker fan, but probably not an issue. Must make sure it will fit with our mobo and RAM. Download the origami test filt from Cryorig website and use it. Works well.


----------



## rpnp7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> C1 you will need low profile ram, like the one in my system. With noctua, low profile only if fan on bottom, if fan on top then you have more clearance for ram.
> 
> C1 with fan is 74mm
> NH-C14S 115mm without fan. With fan on top 142mm.
> 
> C1 takes less room in height and give better airflow around without being cluttered.
> Now that will vary on how each will fit on your ITX mobo.
> 
> Cryorig has a model you can print up, too see how well C1 will fit. Download the cutout for your socket version.
> http://www.cryorig.com/c1.php


The Noctua NH-C14S i will have to fit it this way (this is a phantek's cpu cooler but will look EXACTLY like this):



The Cryorig C1 will look like this:


----------



## ciarlatano

The C1. The NH-C14S is air starved in the Hadron. The fins sit almost against the side panel.


----------



## rpnp7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The C1. The NH-C14S is air starved in the Hadron. The fins sit almost against the side panel.


So, you're saying the bottom fan will be blowing hot air straight at the window and that hot air will travel around the case for a bit before it's exhausted out by the top 2 fans of the hadron air case? Leading to overall increase in temperature in the case?


----------



## rpnp7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I would use Cryorig C1. Worst case is you might what a thicker fan, but probably not an issue. Must make sure it will fit with our mobo and RAM. Download the origami test filt from Cryorig website and use it. Works well.


I'll be trying that tonight.
By the way you getting the C1 is a bias answer or a well thought out answer? Just wondering because i really need to make this decision tonight and then no turning back.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpnp7*
> 
> I'll be trying that tonight.
> By the way you getting the C1 is a bias answer or a well thought out answer? Just wondering because i really need to make this decision tonight and then no turning back.


Well, regardless of how hard I try to be un-biased, is still biased by the fact I am human. But I test and play with lots of coolers and a fair number of cases and other components. Based on my experiences I think I would use the C1 rather than the NH-C14S. But that's just what I would do based on what I think of it's performance looks and quality. Don't get it just because I would. Get it because it is what you think is the best choice for you.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

The top exhaust fans is being blocked by that Phanteks and likely Noctua cooler.
With those coolers, being so close to the side panel, leaves very little room for air to move around, and prevent the top fans for working correctly.

With C1, being shorter in height, you will have more room around for a easier airflow.


----------



## rpnp7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The top exhaust fans is being blocked by that Phanteks and likely Noctua cooler.
> With those coolers, being so close to the side panel, leaves very little room for air to move around, and prevent the top fans for working correctly.
> 
> With C1, being shorter in height, you will have more room around for a easier airflow.


If i do go for the Noctua NH-C14S, and use only 1 fan below the heatsink, should i pus/exhaust air away from the cpu or pull air through the heatsink to the cpu?
The reason i ask is because there isn't any cool air coming into the case from anywhere.

Also, if i SHOULD be pulling air through the heatsink onto the cpu then the nh-c14s being close to the window of the case won't make a difference.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

LIke I mentioned before the Noctua will block most of the top fans and anything around it.
I let you know the measurements for the Noctua and C1 so you can see how much space you will have.


----------



## rpnp7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> LIke I mentioned before the Noctua will block most of the top fans and anything around it.
> I let you know the measurements for the Noctua and C1 so you can see how much space you will have.


It doesn't block anything, i have it sitting beside me.
Question is to weather exhaust or intake via the bottom fan of the noctua nh-c14s.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpnp7*
> 
> It doesn't block anything, i have it sitting beside me.
> Question is to weather exhaust or intake via the bottom fan of the noctua nh-c14s.


The answer is - unless you find someone running your exact setup who has tried both ways, then you will need to do the research yourself. I know it is a PITA with your build, but that is the only way you are actually going to find out. Having people give you answers based purely on speculation won't be helping you.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

What I am saying by being block is the size of the cooler in relation to the amount of space inside the case.
Hadron is a small space, the Noctua cooler is large size and fills the space up and leave very little room inside.

Let go over again the height and space towards the side panel.
C1 with slim13mm fan is 74mm or 89mm with 25mm fan
NH-C14S 115mm without fan. With fan on top 142mm.

C1 will take the least space inside the Hadron. Which is what you want.


----------



## doyll

LUMI Edition H7


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

I saw this, I like it.
If they can add it to there other models like C1. I would be very happy.


----------



## doyll

Would be great if they marketed an accessory lighting kit.


----------



## rapkct

I want it. Since both of my PCs have side windows it'll look pretty cool in them.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> LUMI Edition H7


So pretty...but unfortunately, highlights the ugly. Air blocking case exhaust grille - now with light stopping powers!


----------



## hernan86

hi


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hernan86*
> 
> hi


Good work! You either posed the case at a driving range or you have really good leaping deer or that itx case is more nano than sff. ;-)


----------



## Steve-S

Hey Guys,

Here's the full event information and rules etc. Sorry but I couldn't get the extra goodies for OCN alone. These prized have turned out to be the most expensive items for us to mod. Believe it or not it's more costly to build than last year's Gold plated R1.

http://www.cryorig.com/yearend2015.php


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Could it be a Cryorig H110i GTX61?
> 
> I'm curious to see if they solved the pump issue that made it sound exactly like the cake while Stymie iced it - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9-C5dSUKTc


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You are so cruel.


There was this guy who would email me all the time telling me to get off my butt and get some testing done and post feedback any time I sat on a product for a few days......

Well, have you recovered enough from the first auditory onslaught to post some feedback?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There was this guy who would email me all the time telling me to get off my butt and get some testing done and post feedback any time I sat on a product for a few days......
> 
> Well, have you recovered enough from the first auditory onslaught to post some feedback?


Too many "honey-dews" like Xmas lights and decorations .. thank God for these little things.









I have marveled at how light it is. The whole thing is much lighter than a big air cooler. Maybe they are usiing "lite" coolant in it. First impression was how extremely light the radiator was. Then I realized it was supposed to be full of water, so it must be really really light. .. even lighter than light beer.


----------



## Shneiky

Just got myself a x-mas present in the face of a H440 New Edition (Solid Side Panel). If time allows, before new year, I will post all my findings and benches on how to optimally set-up the H44 airflow to get most out of your R1 cooler. And also, if my test show it, how much does the R1 suffer in such a closed design, compared to my Swiss-cheese meshed all over Haf 912.


----------



## Luckael

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hernan86*
> 
> hi


Does the h5 will fit on the Micro Atx? May i see the internal parts?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luckael*
> 
> Does the h5 will fit on the Micro Atx? May i see the internal parts?


Depends on which Micro ATX motherboard it is.


----------



## WhoMe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vito89*
> 
> Hello Everyone!
> 
> I was wondering if any one of you has had a bad experience with Cryorig customer service? I bought an H5 Universal cooler more or less a month ago and one of the screw pillars in the box has a defective threading which means that I cannot mount the cooler. I asked Cryorig if I could receive a replacement screw pillar and at first they replied very quickly. However, I have been waiting for three weeks and I have not received the part yet. Moreover, they are not replying to my emails anymore and I had to resort to message them on Facebook.
> 
> Apparently they sent the item the first time (I am not sure where from) and then they tried again from Germany, but as I said I have not received anything. Do you know if they have a phone number I can call? It is ridiculous that I have to give a negative feedback and that I cannot recommend a company because they are unable to send me a screw!


I just joined this forum because I searched the net for Cryorig Screw Pillar problems and I found this thread. My R1 Universal has the exact same weird Screw Pillar thread anomaly. There is no way I can screw on the Thumb Cap so I can't mount the darned cooler. How does such a basic problem get overlooked? I contacted Cryorig but as I am on holiday for a couple of weeks I can't send them a picture of the faulty thread - they really need more confirmation of this problem??? - and that means when I get home I'll have to wait a few more weeks to fix the thing.

Sorry my first post is a whinge, but I am very disappointed.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Sorry you have had this problem. When I got my C1 I also had the same screw issue. That was last year, but the problem was fixed fast.
Now this is not common with Cryorig. I had excellent support. It could be holiday season, as many are now buying more Cryorig coolers.
Hopefully it all works out for you. Don't let this stop you from buying Cryorig in the future.

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhoMe*
> 
> I just joined this forum because I searched the net for Cryorig Screw Pillar problems and I found this thread. My R1 Universal has the exact same weird Screw Pillar thread anomaly. There is no way I can screw on the Thumb Cap so I can't mount the darned cooler. How does such a basic problem get overlooked? I contacted Cryorig but as I am on holiday for a couple of weeks I can't send them a picture of the faulty thread - they really need more confirmation of this problem??? - and that means when I get home I'll have to wait a few more weeks to fix the thing.
> 
> Sorry my first post is a whinge, but I am very disappointed.


Don't worry about 1st post being about problems. Cryorig gives us great support.







Send them an email and they will https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/thumb.gifsort you out.

As @Vito89 is here in UK, I sent him one to of mine as I was not using them. Steve at Cryorig is sending me a replacement.

Where are you located?


----------



## Shneiky

@doyll,

You should start asking a salary from Cryorig for being a "tech support".


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> @doyll,
> You should start asking a salary from Cryorig for being a "tech support".


Cryorig has been pretty good to me over the years. They has given me a few coolers to test and review.







Problem is I like their coolers so much I keep using them.









I guess it's a good thing I have 6 component systems in .. two of them are for testing and evaluating components.







Only cooler I really want now is AF-41, which was supposed to be delivered by Cloud Air Fort One with accessory defensive and security armor .. I guess something in it's tracking system failed and it got lost, cus it never arrived.


----------



## Shneiky

We should launch a deep-search party in the Bermuda Triangle, since mine is missing as well. I hear a microcode bug causes the Air Fort One to fall into an infinite loop of left turns in that area.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> We should launch a deep-search party in the Bermuda Triangle, since mine is missing as well. I hear a microcode bug causes the Air Fort One to fall into an infinite loop of left turns in that area.


I heard about that. Only different is my sources said it was a AF 41 401 microcode issue .. sometimes called the "ringworm bug. One school of thought is that it's based on the source code of hurricanes. :


----------



## WhoMe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Sorry you have had this problem. When I got my C1 I also had the same screw issue. That was last year, but the problem was fixed fast.
> Now this is not common with Cryorig. I had excellent support. It could be holiday season, as many are now buying more Cryorig coolers.
> Hopefully it all works out for you. Don't let this stop you from buying Cryorig in the future.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


Good to hear that Cryorig are responsive in the CS department.


----------



## WhoMe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Don't worry about 1st post being about problems. Cryorig gives us great support.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Send them an email and they will https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/thumb.gifsort you out.
> 
> As @Vito89 is here in UK, I sent him one to of mine as I was not using them. Steve at Cryorig is sending me a replacement.
> 
> Where are you located?


I'm in Australia.


----------



## JayRockets

I bought an H7 and I'm having a couple of problems (actually this is my second one, first arrived bent to all hell)

First, my x-bar swivels on the base quite a bit. I'm worried this thing isn't going to stay secured to the CPU. I can hold the xbar and turn the entire cooler a good 45 degrees in both directions. Not sure if this is how it's suppose to be, or if I need to tighten up that center screw (I'd have to use pliers since none of my screwdrivers fit down that tunnel).

Second. the back plate covers a row of large solder points on the rear of my GA-z170x-Gaming 7. These aren't little knobs, these are fricken spikes. Not worried about a short since the plate isn't metal, but I'm again worried about how secure it'll be.

And finally, I researched this cooler to hell and back. Watched so many videos and it looked so easy to install but I am having a helluva time getting this thing on the screws without messing up the damn paste. I just can't get it on in one go. I have to move it a bit and it touches my little rice grain dot smearing on parts of the base that aren't going to be seated on the cores. If anyone has any tips that'd be great. I used up the entire included tube of paste redoing it over and over.

BTW, I got CP7 not CP9 like all the reviewers. I feel like that's a bit of bait and switch actually. I also noticed in all the videos and photos the base is more of a silver color than mine. Mine is a lot more brown. There's this thought in the back of my mind that corners were cut after all the great reviews had already been posted.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayRockets*
> 
> I bought an H7 and I'm having a couple of problems (actually this is my second one, first arrived bent to all hell)
> 
> First, my x-bar swivels on the base quite a bit. I'm worried this thing isn't going to stay secured to the CPU. I can hold the xbar and turn the entire cooler a good 45 degrees in both directions. Not sure if this is how it's suppose to be, or if I need to tighten up that center screw (I'd have to use pliers since none of my screwdrivers fit down that tunnel).
> 
> Second. the back plate covers a row of large solder points on the rear of my GA-z170x-Gaming 7. These aren't little knobs, these are fricken spikes. Not worried about a short since the plate isn't metal, but I'm again worried about how secure it'll be.
> 
> And finally, I researched this cooler to hell and back. Watched so many videos and it looked so easy to install but I am having a helluva time getting this thing on the screws without messing up the damn paste. I just can't get it on in one go. I have to move it a bit and it touches my little rice grain dot smearing on parts of the base that aren't going to be seated on the cores. If anyone has any tips that'd be great. I used up the entire included tube of paste redoing it over and over.
> 
> BTW, I got CP7 not CP9 like all the reviewers. I feel like that's a bit of bait and switch actually. I also noticed in all the videos and photos the base is more of a silver color than mine. Mine is a lot more brown. There's this thought in the back of my mind that corners were cut after all the great reviews had already been posted.


Please forgive me, but my first impression on reading your post is "professional victim"or "professional whiner" .







1st cooler "bent to hell"
screwdrivers won't fit








"fricken" spikes on mobo
researched to hell and back
"helluva time" positioning properly
CP7, not CP9 is "bait & switch








base wrong color:doh:

You have so many problems it makes the problems in my life seem like blessings.








"Princess with pea under mattress" comes to mind.









I'm afraid to make any suggestions. Sure don't want to "bait and switch".









Best suggestion I can think of is send it back and get some other brand. Cryorig has real problems to deal with .. like Air Fort One ringworms in Bermuda Triangle.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhoMe*
> 
> I'm in Australia.


Yeah, contact support. If you haven't got a reply in a week, post back up here. Probably be next year before anything is resolved.


----------



## atomicus

I have Kingston Predator DDR4 RAM on my X99 mobo, which is 55mm high... from what I'm seeing, this is too high for the R1 Ultimate, am I correct? If that is the case, what is the next best cooler for my set-up where RAM height isn't an issue? Would it be the R1 Universal?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> I have Kingston Predator DDR4 RAM on my X99 mobo, which is 55mm high... from what I'm seeing, this is too high for the R1 Ultimate, am I correct? If that is the case, what is the next best cooler for my set-up where RAM height isn't an issue? Would it be the R1 Universal?


"X99 mobo" isn't enough info. Not all are the same.








Just out of curiosity, why do so many people buy RAM without being sure it will fit under the coolers they are thinking of getting? The biggest problems in most builds is RAM height (most common), cooler height and cooler width / interference with PCIe socket. I see more RAM height problems than anything else. It doesn't require rocket science to figure out RAM more than about 35mm tall is likely to cause issues.







Or that cases with less than about 170mm CPU clearance can be problematic.









Sorry, it's "Baah! Humbug!" season.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> "X99 mobo" isn't enough info. Not all are the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just out of curiosity, why do so many people buy RAM without being sure it will fit under the coolers they are thinking of getting? The biggest problems in most builds is RAM height (most common), cooler height and cooler width / interference with PCIe socket. I see more RAM height problems than anything else. It doesn't require rocket science to figure out RAM more than about 35mm tall is likely to cause issues.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or that cases with less than about 170mm CPU clearance can be problematic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, it's "Baah! Humbug!" season.


MSI X99A SLI Plus is the motherboard in question. Personally, I bought my RAM before this cooler came out, and have been on an AIO since (Nepton 240M), which I am now thinking of changing. It's a decent cooler, just been making some funny noises of late, and it seems the R1 is equal to its performance, and quieter, and at a very attractive price point vs some of the expensive (albeit rather nice) AIO options available.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> MSI X99A SLI Plus is the motherboard in question. Personally, I bought my RAM before this cooler came out, and have been on an AIO since (Nepton 240M), which I am now thinking of changing. It's a decent cooler, just been making some funny noises of late, and it seems the R1 is equal to its performance, and quieter, and at a very attractive price point vs some of the expensive (albeit rather nice) AIO options available.


Sorry but you are blowing smoke without any fire









R1 Universal was released lat 2013.

DDR4 RAM was released latter half of 2014.

At least 6 months before DDR4.

I'm willing to help, but the least you can do is acknowldege the cooler was available months before DDR4 was.









Tall "heat spreader" RAM is nothing but sales hype. RAM rarely if ever needs any heatsink. Same kind of hype used to sell CLCs as "water cooling" systems.. Total weight of 240 CLCs (even 280CLCs) including hoses, radiator, water block, pump and filled with "water coolant" is less than a half decent 240 radiator .. and radiator is dry, has no fittings and no coolant at all in it. Just a new, clean, dry, bare radiator.

My "Baah, Humbug!" meter is stuck against it's top peg.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry but you are blowing smoke without any fire
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> R1 Universal was released lat 2013.
> 
> DDR4 RAM was released latter half of 2014.
> 
> At least 6 months before DDR4.
> 
> I'm willing to help, but the least you can do is acknowldege the cooler was available months before DDR4 was.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tall "heat spreader" RAM is nothing but sales hype. RAM rarely if ever needs any heatsink. Same kind of hype used to sell CLCs as "water cooling" systems.. Total weight of 240 CLCs (even 280CLCs) including hoses, radiator, water block, pump and filled with "water coolant" is less than a half decent 240 radiator .. and radiator is dry, has no fittings and no coolant at all in it. Just a new, clean, dry, bare radiator.
> 
> My "Baah, Humbug!" meter is stuck against it's top peg.


Well I don't ever recall seeing Cryorig around when I bought my system, but I was mostly looking at AIOs. There is only one distributor of Cryorig in the UK anyway (where I live), and it wasn't on my radar at all.

I know about the RAM heat spreaders being mostly a gimmick. I didn't buy it for that reason, it was simply a bundle so I got it all together.

Seems the R1 Universal is one of the best options regards air coolers then.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry, it's "Baah! Humbug!" season.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> My "Baah, Humbug!" meter is stuck against it's top peg.


Did someone get a noisy AIO cooler in their stocking


----------



## WhoMe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yeah, contact support. If you haven't got a reply in a week, post back up here. Probably be next year before anything is resolved.


Cryorig sent me a message and the part is on it's way to me. Good on 'em!

Thanks for the support from this forum.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> Did someone get a noisy AIO cooler in their stocking


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Well I don't ever recall seeing Cryorig around when I bought my system, but I was mostly looking at AIOs. There is only one distributor of Cryorig in the UK anyway (where I live), and it wasn't on my radar at all.
> 
> I know about the RAM heat spreaders being mostly a gimmick. I didn't buy it for that reason, it was simply a bundle so I got it all together.
> 
> Seems the R1 Universal is one of the best options regards air coolers then.


Sorry for stepping in mid discussion. On X99 we generally suggest to use the R1 Ultimate. That's because of the back fin stack being around 2~3mm further back on the R1 Universal, which can cause interference issues with RAM over 30mm on the first slot in the back. With the R1 Ultimate the tolerance is added to about 32~33mm, which is the standard height for DDR4 RAM.

The R1 series is not 100% perfect on x79/x99. Features like Zero RAM interference is not achieved on X79/X99 which has been a sore point for us. Which we aim to achieve with our next high-end tower.
But as Doyll mentioned, if you want a quality performing air cooler, it's better to ditch those tall heat spreaders.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayRockets*
> 
> I bought an H7 and I'm having a couple of problems (actually this is my second one, first arrived bent to all hell)
> 
> First, my x-bar swivels on the base quite a bit. I'm worried this thing isn't going to stay secured to the CPU. I can hold the xbar and turn the entire cooler a good 45 degrees in both directions. Not sure if this is how it's suppose to be, or if I need to tighten up that center screw (I'd have to use pliers since none of my screwdrivers fit down that tunnel).
> 
> Second. the back plate covers a row of large solder points on the rear of my GA-z170x-Gaming 7. These aren't little knobs, these are fricken spikes. Not worried about a short since the plate isn't metal, but I'm again worried about how secure it'll be.
> 
> And finally, I researched this cooler to hell and back. Watched so many videos and it looked so easy to install but I am having a helluva time getting this thing on the screws without messing up the damn paste. I just can't get it on in one go. I have to move it a bit and it touches my little rice grain dot smearing on parts of the base that aren't going to be seated on the cores. If anyone has any tips that'd be great. I used up the entire included tube of paste redoing it over and over.
> 
> BTW, I got CP7 not CP9 like all the reviewers. I feel like that's a bit of bait and switch actually. I also noticed in all the videos and photos the base is more of a silver color than mine. Mine is a lot more brown. There's this thought in the back of my mind that corners were cut after all the great reviews had already been posted.


Hey JayRockets,

The H7 can swivel a bit, since the X-Bar mounting does not fix the copper block into place. But this is a design decision, we couldn't make the mounting kit support both Intel/AMD if we had the kit clamp the corners of the copper base. But normally you should not see the H7 swinging around freely unless something is wrong with your mount.
2nd, components on the back has generally been a problem with ITX boards only. However, we do have a "backplate-less" installation method with additional custom plastic washers available. These were made for the C7 and M9i, but it does support the H7 and I can send a pack over to you if you need it. Write in to support and our guy should have you sorted out.
3rd, not quiet sure what's the problem, but if you can provide some photos or videos our engineers should be able to help out.
4th, we are switching all models with CP9 to the newer more expensive CP7. CP9 had the problem of being too try and tougher to apply for some. So we bit the bullet and started including CP7. Basically it's CP9's performance while being easier and smoother to apply. But I can't do much to confirm this, as currently we don't have any third party testing results of CP9 vs CP7 vs CP5. Actually to think about this I think we should do it here! Anybody interested in testing out thermal paste?


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhoMe*
> 
> Cryorig sent me a message and the part is on it's way to me. Good on 'em!
> 
> Thanks for the support from this forum.


Hi WhoMe,

We try to provide the best support we can. We also treat each support case as thorough as we can. We want to know why this is happening and what we can do to prevent this. Just like what you posted, this problem has happened before and we are currently waiting for registration information to check if these items are from the same lot of screws. Sometimes asking additional info may seem like we don't trust you the consumer but this is not the case. We just want to have as much information as possible.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Sorry for stepping in mid discussion. On X99 we generally suggest to use the R1 Ultimate. That's because of the back fin stack being around 2~3mm further back on the R1 Universal, which can cause interference issues with RAM over 30mm on the first slot in the back. With the R1 Ultimate the tolerance is added to about 32~33mm, which is the standard height for DDR4 RAM.
> 
> The R1 series is not 100% perfect on x79/x99. Features like Zero RAM interference is not achieved on X79/X99 which has been a sore point for us. Which we aim to achieve with our next high-end tower.
> But as Doyll mentioned, if you want a quality performing air cooler, it's better to ditch those tall heat spreaders.


Well you guys better hurry up with that next high end cooler. . . I'm planning an X99 build and the cooler I will be using has to be a cryorig air cooler.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> Well you guys better hurry up with that next high end cooler. . . I'm planning an X99 build and the cooler I will be using has to be a cryorig air cooler.


Lol, it's ready when it's ready. But I would want it to come out sooner than later too!


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Sorry for stepping in mid discussion. On X99 we generally suggest to use the R1 Ultimate. That's because of the back fin stack being around 2~3mm further back on the R1 Universal, which can cause interference issues with RAM over 30mm on the first slot in the back. With the R1 Ultimate the tolerance is added to about 32~33mm, which is the standard height for DDR4 RAM.
> 
> The R1 series is not 100% perfect on x79/x99. Features like Zero RAM interference is not achieved on X79/X99 which has been a sore point for us. Which we aim to achieve with our next high-end tower.
> But as Doyll mentioned, if you want a quality performing air cooler, it's better to ditch those tall heat spreaders.


With my mobo and RAM (MSI X99A SLI Plus and Kingston Predator 55mm high), the Ultimate won't fit, it would appear. But the Universal won't either? I'm confused. I know you very helpfully provide the printable guide to check these things, but checking with this would require half dismantling my system first. No approx ETA for this new high end X99 cooler then?


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Look at the pic. . . The ram slots that are circled in red will be covered with either R1. . . With the R1 Universal the ones circled in green wont be affected. Hope you get it lol I even included a pic of your mobo



Now look at my system with an R1 Universal . . . The ram slots in front of the cooler are not affected, but lets assume that my mobo was same as yours all the left side slots would be under the cooler.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

With the rear fan being so close to the cooler, I would remove it. Rear fan is not doing anything.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> With the rear fan being so close to the cooler, I would remove it. Rear fan is not doing anything.


Sure it is. It's hiding the Corsair fan from some angles.

Actually, ditching the Corsair fan and moving the XF140 to the rear exhaust slot would probably be the best bet.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Well I don't ever recall seeing Cryorig around when I bought my system, but I was mostly looking at AIOs. There is only one distributor of Cryorig in the UK anyway (where I live), and it wasn't on my radar at all.
> 
> I know about the RAM heat spreaders being mostly a gimmick. I didn't buy it for that reason, it was simply a bundle so I got it all together.
> 
> Seems the R1 Universal is one of the best options regards air coolers then.


I'm also in UK and knew about both R1 Ultimate and R1 Universal. Both are very good. With same fans I get the same cooling. Universal has front heatpipes and fin pack set back 4.5mm for more room between front of fins and RAM sockets, and back fin pack & heatpipes are set back 3.mm


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> Did someone get a noisy AIO cooler in their stocking


Darn you! Coffee went everywhere!








Pump is near silent, but fans get unpleasant at about 2/3rd speed.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhoMe*
> 
> Cryorig sent me a message and the part is on it's way to me. Good on 'em!
> 
> Thanks for the support from this forum.


Cryorig is very good. Steve is a certified card carrying Cryorig forum stalker.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Hey JayRockets,
> 
> The H7 can swivel a bit, since the X-Bar mounting does not fix the copper block into place. But this is a design decision, we couldn't make the mounting kit support both Intel/AMD if we had the kit clamp the corners of the copper base. But normally you should not see the H7 swinging around freely unless something is wrong with your mount.
> 2nd, components on the back has generally been a problem with ITX boards only. However, we do have a "backplate-less" installation method with additional custom plastic washers available. These were made for the C7 and M9i, but it does support the H7 and I can send a pack over to you if you need it. Write in to support and our guy should have you sorted out.
> 3rd, not quiet sure what's the problem, but if you can provide some photos or videos our engineers should be able to help out.
> 4th, we are switching all models with CP9 to the newer more expensive CP7. CP9 had the problem of being too try and tougher to apply for some. So we bit the bullet and started including CP7. Basically it's CP9's performance while being easier and smoother to apply. But I can't do much to confirm this, as currently we don't have any third party testing results of CP9 vs CP7 vs CP5. Actually to think about this I think we should do it here! Anybody interested in testing out thermal paste?


I would be glad to do some comparison testing.









But I will warn everyone now, even if their is an honest 1c difference in thermal transfer it will be near impossible to verify or prove. Even with being able to monitor real time temperature to within +/-0.1c for both CPU and airflow into cooler as well as barometric pressure and humidity, we still have to take into account each mounting and resulting TIM print .. which is at least another +/-0.1c. Just the two +/-0.1c potential differences stacks up to 0.4c possible difference even before we try accounting for pressure and humidity .. so it is very hard to get the margin of error to less than +/-0.5c .. which is a total of 1c possible difference.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> With the rear fan being so close to the cooler, I would remove it. Rear fan is not doing anything.


Indeed! And move the XF140 to rear and still use CPU fan header control


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Sure it is. It's hiding the Corsair fan from some angles.
> 
> Actually, ditching the Corsair fan and moving the XF140 to the rear exhaust slot would probably be the best bet.


I think Sp33d's reference to "rear fan" to removing the Corsick rear case fan.








But I agree, especially if the XF140 is controlled by CPU fan header.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Actually, ditching the Corsair fan and moving the XF140 to the rear exhaust slot would probably be the best bet.


That is not possible. The rear fan only has room for 120mm fans. No room for 140mm. This is due to his case design which looks like the HAF 912.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> That is not possible. The rear fan only has room for 120mm fans. No room for 140mm. This is due to his case design which looks like the HAF 912.


Baah! Humbug! "Cut to fit" is my motto.








http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/40_20#post_23754692


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Hello again guys, , , the pic where the corsair 120 is in the rear is a thing of the past. The 120 is no more I just never had the chance to do something like in the pic down below. A while back when you guys gave me the advise to remove it and I did it haha. . . BTW the case is a CM storm enforcer


----------



## JayRockets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Hey JayRockets,
> 
> The H7 can swivel a bit, since the X-Bar mounting does not fix the copper block into place. But this is a design decision, we couldn't make the mounting kit support both Intel/AMD if we had the kit clamp the corners of the copper base. But normally you should not see the H7 swinging around freely unless something is wrong with your mount.
> 2nd, components on the back has generally been a problem with ITX boards only. However, we do have a "backplate-less" installation method with additional custom plastic washers available. These were made for the C7 and M9i, but it does support the H7 and I can send a pack over to you if you need it. Write in to support and our guy should have you sorted out.
> 3rd, not quiet sure what's the problem, but if you can provide some photos or videos our engineers should be able to help out.
> 4th, we are switching all models with CP9 to the newer more expensive CP7. CP9 had the problem of being too try and tougher to apply for some. So we bit the bullet and started including CP7. Basically it's CP9's performance while being easier and smoother to apply. But I can't do much to confirm this, as currently we don't have any third party testing results of CP9 vs CP7 vs CP5. Actually to think about this I think we should do it here! Anybody interested in testing out thermal paste?


Thanks for the reply, but I've solved my problem by ordering an H5 universal. Wish I had known about it beforehand. Looks so much easier to install, won't touch any solder points, is white like every other component in my build, and has no x-bar. That x-bar reminded me too much of the 212 Evo, which can move on the cpu after being installed.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> With my mobo and RAM (MSI X99A SLI Plus and Kingston Predator 55mm high), the Ultimate won't fit, it would appear. But the Universal won't either? I'm confused. I know you very helpfully provide the printable guide to check these things, but checking with this would require half dismantling my system first. No approx ETA for this new high end X99 cooler then?


Correct answer is yes, both will not fit if you intend to use the 55mm tall RAM in all eight slots.
ETA of this high end cooler is June 2016.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> With the rear fan being so close to the cooler, I would remove it. Rear fan is not doing anything.


Take my like.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm also in UK and knew about both R1 Ultimate and R1 Universal. Both are very good. With same fans I get the same cooling. Universal has front heatpipes and fin pack set back 4.5mm for more room between front of fins and RAM sockets, and back fin pack & heatpipes are set back 3.mm
> 
> Darn you! Coffee went everywhere!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pump is near silent, but fans get unpleasant at about 2/3rd speed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cryorig is very good. Steve is a certified card carrying Cryorig forum stalker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would be glad to do some comparison testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I will warn everyone now, even if their is an honest 1c difference in thermal transfer it will be near impossible to verify or prove. Even with being able to monitor real time temperature to within +/-0.1c for both CPU and airflow into cooler as well as barometric pressure and humidity, we still have to take into account each mounting and resulting TIM print .. which is at least another +/-0.1c. Just the two +/-0.1c potential differences stacks up to 0.4c possible difference even before we try accounting for pressure and humidity .. so it is very hard to get the margin of error to less than +/-0.5c .. which is a total of 1c possible difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Indeed! And move the XF140 to rear and still use CPU fan header control


Yeah, that's my main concern with TIM tests. Human application and other variables makes it near impossible to get truly objective data, unless it's at least a 2~3c difference.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Yeah, that's my main concern with TIM tests. Human application and other variables makes it near impossible to get truly objective data, unless it's at least a 2~3c difference.


I think with multiple testing a 1c difference becomes evident .. but that does not make it an empirical fact.









*The 'best' TIMs are not 'best' just because of their heat transfer ability, but because of their ease of application .. which gives a superior print for better heat transfer and consistently lower temps. Add to that a TIM that does not degrade over time and we have a winner.*

But if user does not make sure their case airflow is not supplying cool air to the cooler, everything else becomes moot.









It's like comparing top coolers. R1 Ultimate, NH-D15, PH-TC14PE, Silver Arrow IB-E, etc are all so close it's impossible to say one is "better" than the other. I prefer Cryorig aesthetics, Cryorig mount is top tier, fan is quite good, and Cryorig customer support is 2nd to none. But all four (and several others) are all extremely capable coolers.

But enough brown nosing. The bare truth is *Cryorig products and support are among the very best of the very best.*









But as an 'airhead', I'm still struggling with new CLC.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> *The 'best' TIMs are not 'best' just because of their heat transfer ability, but because of their ease of application .. which gives a superior print for better heat transfer and consistently lower temps. Add to that a TIM that does not degrade over time and we have a winner.*


Completely agree to what you're saying. That's why we evaluate the ease of application for all our stand-alone TIM's. This is especially important since a lot of users like to use the time saving rice dot method . If you take a high viscosity TIM on a entry level heatsink with low mounting pressure or no backplate system, then chances are the spread is not going to be very thin or even. Also, we know that the CP9 is a pain in the ass to apply which is why we're trying to replace it with the slightly better CP7. In terms of performance CP7 is only slightly better than CP9, but it shines in ease of application and it's less likely to go dry and go stiff like CP9. In short phasing out CP9 should be a win win for everyone!


----------



## VSG

Good to hear that!


----------



## Bytelove

Am I just being an idiot or is there a compatibility problem with the C7 on an Asus Z170i Pro Gaming? I cant thread the nuts. If I turn it there's no holes for the screws in the bracket.


----------



## ciarlatano

No - you aren't being an idiot. Many ITX boards have components that interfere with backplates. You can cut away that piece of the backplate with no harm done. It shouldn't be too difficult with that plastic - only cut away what you need to to clear that chip.

Or....I can't figure out what you have going on there....but the screws go through the backplate from the rear on the H7. From the manual -


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bytelove*
> 
> Am I just being an idiot or is there a compatibility problem with the C7 on an Asus Z170i Pro Gaming? I cant thread the nuts. If I turn it there's no holes for the screws in the bracket.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This is not the first time Asus has done this. Good yours is plastic and not metal backplate.
What you can do is shave/file away part of the plastic so it does not touch. Just enough so there is no touching.
Just need a few mm for clearance.


----------



## Malik




----------



## doyll

@Malik
Nice bit of photography.








While cooling science has has slowed to a snail's pace, the ability to make smaller coolers quietly cool ever increasingly powerful CPUs is amazing.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> While cooling science has has slowed to a snail's pace, the ability to make smaller coolers quietly cool ever increasingly powerful CPUs is amazing.


But not in Canada, apparently.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> But not in Canada, apparently.


Canada is so cool anyway.

Really! Just ask any of them Canooks how cool it is right now.









Seriously, i can identify with their lack of product availability. We have no Thermal right retailer here in UK now either. It took Cryorig a long time to get here too. Luckily both have retailers in other EU countries and the English Channel is only 20 miles wide in one place


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Canada is so cool anyway.
> 
> Really! Just ask any of them Canooks how cool it is right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, i can identify with their lack of product availability. We have no Thermal right retailer here in UK now either. It took Cryorig a long time to get here too. Luckily both have retailers in other EU countries and the English Channel is only 20 miles wide in one place


I think part of the frustration from Canadians is that Newegg said they would be selling it in Canada "soon".... Back in the beginning of 2015, and we still have no real options other than to order through friends in the US or contact Cryorig directly.

While it may be cold outside (if -5C is "cold", that's almost shorts weather for some of us!), pretty much everyone knows how to use a furnace, or make creative use of electricity (aka [email protected] and/or BOINC) to produce heat


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I think part of the frustration from Canadians is that Newegg said they would be selling it in Canada "soon".... Back in the beginning of 2015, and we still have no real options other than to order through friends in the US or contact Cryorig directly.
> 
> While it may be cold outside (if -5C is "cold", that's almost shorts weather for some of us!), pretty much everyone knows how to use a furnace, or make creative use of electricity (aka [email protected] and/or BOINC) to produce heat


LOL
You many be cooler than I am, but you also have a better sense of humor.








I know what you mean about -5c being balmy weather. Anything above about -18c is no big deal. And it's not until around -40 that it really starts getting cold.


Below about -40c things can start getting a little tricky.









Made a fair few hauls from lower 48 to North Slope during pipeline build.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bytelove*
> 
> Am I just being an idiot or is there a compatibility problem with the C7 on an Asus Z170i Pro Gaming? I cant thread the nuts. If I turn it there's no holes for the screws in the bracket.


Hi,

Yeah, we also noticed this problem with some ITX boards. We have just finalized a new mounting mechanism that does not use the backplate. We've tested it on the M9, C7 and H7. Basically it's just added washers that replace the backplate's thickness. A backplateless installation is all fine with the C7 and M9 due to the lower weight. However, it's not 100% recommended on the H5 on up. The H7 is on the fence, it's safe to install with the washer method but we generally advise to use the backplate if you can. So please only use the washer method if you have interference problems on the back of the board.

Please write in to [email protected] and ask for the C7 washers. Our guy will send out the support parts to you free of charge.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No - you aren't being an idiot. Many ITX boards have components that interfere with backplates. You can cut away that piece of the backplate with no harm done. It shouldn't be too difficult with that plastic - only cut away what you need to to clear that chip.
> 
> Or....I can't figure out what you have going on there....but the screws go through the backplate from the rear on the H7. From the manual -


His problem is with the C7. It's the same concept just reversed with the screws extending out form the cooler.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Yeah, we also noticed this problem with some ITX boards. We have just finalized a new mounting mechanism that does not use the backplate. We've tested it on the M9, C7 and H7. Basically it's just added washers that replace the backplate's thickness. A backplateless installation is all fine with the C7 and M9 due to the lower weight. However, it's not 100% recommended on the H5 on up. The H7 is on the fence, it's safe to install with the washer method but we generally advise to use the backplate if you can. So please only use the washer method if you have interference problems on the back of the board.
> 
> Please write in to [email protected] and ask for the C7 washers. Our guy will send out the support parts to you free of charge.


I've dealt with backplate-less installation of some coolers and water blocks. I think the H7 with a horizontal motherboard orientation should be fine, but I wouldn't be so sure about the H5 either (more regarding TIM spread than weight distribution itself).


----------



## Shneiky

Any idea if a low-noise adapter like:

https://www.alternate.nl/Noctua/NA-SRC7-Low-Noise-adapters/html/product/1142135?event=search

Will work on the R1 dual XF140s and bring them down to lets say 500 or so RPM, or the fans will not even start?

Would be nice, if Cryorig posts the electrical specs of the fans on their website. Coolingtechnique shows 0.18 amps at 1300 rpm, don't know if that is the official spec.


----------



## Malik




----------



## hubwub

Just want to say that I'm loving my CRYORIG C7. Photos of the beast in use.


----------



## BoloisBolo

Hey guys I just picked up Cryorig C1 from a friend and I'm loving it, but I am missing 2011 screw pillars. Is there anywhere I could find them besides contacting cryorig through their support page?


----------



## Nickyvida

Hi guys.

Realized my supply of CP-9 thermal paste that came with my H5 purchase is running low and i can't find the paste on Amazon as Cryorig does not sell locally as of yet.

Is there a place where i can buy the CP-15 from?

Thanks.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoloisBolo*
> 
> Hey guys I just picked up Cryorig C1 from a friend and I'm loving it, but I am missing 2011 screw pillars. Is there anywhere I could find them besides contacting cryorig through their support page?


I suggest you contact Cryorig CS first. And go from there.
They usually post out same day and you'll have them a few days later.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> Realized my supply of CP-9 thermal paste that came with my H5 purchase is running low and i can't find the paste on Amazon as Cryorig does not sell locally as of yet.
> 
> Is there a place where i can buy the CP-15 from?
> 
> Thanks.


I suggest you contact Cryorig CS first. And go from there.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I suggest you contact Cryorig CS first. And go from there.
> They usually post out same day and you'll have them a few days later.
> I suggest you contact Cryorig CS first. And go from there.


Ah i see. Thanks man.


----------



## ivoryg37

The cryorig C1 has to be the worst to install in my case. I don't know if its because I installed it in a Lone Industries L3 case but it took me about 12 thermal paste application to install it. The springs on it are too tight or something so I have to put my entire weight on the screw driver for the screws to bite into the mounts and screw in. The spring seem to be really thick and it pops the screw out after I get it to bite a little if I don't put my weight into it and even then I still don't feel confident about the install lol. I think the heatsink lifted a little on my last install so it might have gave room for air bubbles in the thermal paste. Its idling at about 32c right now with Gelid Extreme for an i5-4590, I don't know if thats normal lol. I may pick up the cryorig C7, it seems easier to install


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> The cryorig C1 has to be the worst to install in my case. I don't know if its because I installed it in a Lone Industries L3 case but it took me about 12 thermal paste application to install it. The springs on it are too tight or something so I have to put my entire weight on the screw driver for the screws to bite into the mounts and screw in. The spring seem to be really think and it pops the screw out after I get it to bite a little if I don't put my weight into it and even then I still don't feel confident about the install lol. I think the heatsink lifted a little on my last install so it might have gave room for air bubbles in the thermal paste. Its idling at about 32c right now with Gelid Extreme for an i5-4590, I don't know if thats normal lol. I may pick up the cryorig C7, it seems easier to install


Did you possibly put the retention brackets on upside down? There should be no force at all involved in an LGA 115X mounting.


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Did you possibly put the retention brackets on upside down? There should be no force at all involved in an LGA 115X mounting.


I don't think so, I bought it from newegg. Everything was pre-installed when I went to install it. Are you talking about the bracket that came pre attached to the heatsink or the mounting brackets?

Yeah this is what had me confuse. It was the first heatsink I ever used that I had to put my body weight into to tighten the heatsink. Normally I would lightly tighten in cross pattern like I would do for car wheels until I have every screw lightly screwed in the go backwards tightening everything down. Since this cooler only has two mounts I tried to lightly tighten top first then to the bottom but if I do this one side always seem to pop-out so then I figure this wasn't working. The only way I found it to work was tightening the top a little more so it wouldn't pop out but then this would make me have to push down really hard to tightening the bottom for some odd reason. I have a noctua heatsink which basically has the same mount except the screw/male side is on the mount and the female is on the heatsink instead and there is no force required at all. I watched a few youtube video and read reviews to see if I was doing something wrong but I don't see where I'm going wrong. I'm going to take it apart again later today and check


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

I own the C1 and install was very easy and simple.
What you mean came pre-installed?
It will be better than the C7.

Did you have correct installed the cross bars?
The angle part always faces outwards.
Are any of the heatpipes touching any part of mobo or your ram is hitting the cooler?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I don't think so, I bought it from newegg. Everything was pre-installed when I went to install it. Are you talking about the bracket that came pre attached to the heatsink or the mounting brackets?
> 
> Yeah this is what had me confuse. It was the first heatsink I ever used that I had to put my body weight into to tighten the heatsink. Normally I would lightly tighten in cross pattern like I would do for car wheels until I have every screw lightly screwed in the go backwards tightening everything down. Since this cooler only has two mounts I tried to lightly tighten top first then to the bottom but if I do this one side always seem to pop-out so then I figure this wasn't working. The only way I found it to work was tightening the top a little more so it wouldn't pop out but then this would make me have to push down really hard to tightening the bottom for some odd reason. I have a noctua heatsink which basically has the same mount except the screw/male side is on the mount and the female is on the heatsink instead and there is no force required at all. I watched a few youtube video and read reviews to see if I was doing something wrong but I don't see where I'm going wrong. I'm going to take it apart again later today and check


I am talking about the two mounting brackets that are placed on top of the standoffs. They should have the hollow, scooped side up. If you have them flat side up, the threads are positioned too far down. That would account for the need for force.


----------



## ivoryg37

Yeah I have the brackets the correct way. I thought you were talking about the retention on the heatsink(the two screws bracket) which is why I mention pre-installed. I'm using crucial ballistix low profile ram so there no clearance issue anywhere at all. I don't think its possible to install the bracket wrongs since the flat side doesn't even have a standoff with threading. I mean the heatsink works it just seems I'm having to apply more force than any other heatsink I've ever installed for the screws to bite into the standoff to tighten the heatsink down otherwise it keeps popping out lifting the heatsink and introducing chance of airbubbles in the paste. I'm going to take it apart later and try to record my install procedure to post to see if I'm possibly doing something wrong. Maybe its just cause I'm using a smaller case I can't see the standoff correct or something when installing


----------



## ruffhi

I had a C1 in a Silverstonetek ML07B and I found the installation difficult. The main reason was that I couldn't see the brackets that the screws get screwed into. Once they were seated correctly, it was pretty straight forward.

My strong suggestion is to do a dry (no paste) installation first and then put marks on the C1 flange and your case so that when you do the installation for real (ie with paste), you know exactly how it should line up.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I had a C1 in a Silverstonetek ML07B and I found the installation difficult. The main reason was that I couldn't see the brackets that the screws get screwed into. Once they were seated correctly, it was pretty straight forward.
> 
> My strong suggestion is to do a dry (no paste) installation first and then put marks on the C1 flange and your case so that when you do the installation for real (ie with paste), you know exactly how it should line up.










Best advice I've seen today.








Doesn't matter what cooler or component it is. If you are not familiar with how it installs, do a practice run, or two, or even three to figure out how best to do it right.


----------



## brandonger

So I've recently purchased an R1 Universal off of /r/hardwareswap and want to take off the slim fan and install two of the full-size XF140 fans, but Cryorig only includes one extra set of clips for full-size fans with the Universal. Does anyone know where I can get just the clips? Will they come with the separately purchased fan?

For those who are wondering, I did want the R1 Ultimate, but saw this bargain for the Universal and jumped on it, thinking to replace the fans and plastic covers. MFW someone put an Ultimate up for sale three days later... Maybe there's someone here willing to trade their Ultimate for my Universal?


----------



## BoloisBolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandonger*
> 
> So I've recently purchased an R1 Universal off of /r/hardwareswap and want to take off the slim fan and install two of the full-size XF140 fans, but Cryorig only includes one extra set of clips for full-size fans with the Universal. Does anyone know where I can get just the clips? Will they come with the separately purchased fan?
> 
> For those who are wondering, I did want the R1 Ultimate, but saw this bargain for the Universal and jumped on it, thinking to replace the fans and plastic covers. MFW someone put an Ultimate up for sale three days later... Maybe there's someone here willing to trade their Ultimate for my Universal?


You should try their customer service. I just bought a cryorig c1 from hardwareswap and was missing a piece and they helped me out. Had to pay postage but it was only 3.50 to NY.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandonger*
> 
> So I've recently purchased an R1 Universal off of /r/hardwareswap and want to take off the slim fan and install two of the full-size XF140 fans, but Cryorig only includes one extra set of clips for full-size fans with the Universal. Does anyone know where I can get just the clips? Will they come with the separately purchased fan?
> 
> For those who are wondering, I did want the R1 Ultimate, but saw this bargain for the Universal and jumped on it, thinking to replace the fans and plastic covers. MFW someone put an Ultimate up for sale three days later... Maybe there's someone here willing to trade their Ultimate for my Universal?


Double check your accessories. I think Cryorig sends a 3rc set of fan clips with the R1 Universal for a 2nd XF140 fan on the back. These are the same clips used to put one on the front.


----------



## brandonger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Double check your accessories. I think Cryorig sends a 3rc set of fan clips with the R1 Universal for a 2nd XF140 fan on the back. These are the same clips used to put one on the front.


I have. The Ultimate comes with two extra sets of mounting clips for XF140 fans. The Universal also comes with two sets, but one for an XF140 fan and one for an XT140. I needed another set of the full-size clips.

I did email support though, and after explaining my situation they're sending me the spare set of clips complimentary! Great customer service! Definitely going to be recommending Cryorig from now on. Superb!


----------



## WhoMe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhoMe*
> 
> Cryorig sent me a message and the part is on it's way to me. Good on 'em!
> 
> Thanks for the support from this forum.


Cryorig sent me the replacement screws - I will be mounting the R1 Universal on a i5 6600k chip. I have read that the Skylake chips can be deformed by a large cooler. I read that Cryorig claims that there are no problems with their coolers mounted on Skylake CPU chips. Has anyone here had any problems with bent or deformed chips?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhoMe*
> 
> Cryorig sent me the replacement screws - I will be mounting the R1 Universal on a i5 6600k chip. I have read that the Skylake chips can be deformed by a large cooler. I read that Cryorig claims that there are no problems with their coolers mounted on Skylake CPU chips. Has anyone here had any problems with bent or deformed chips?


Cryorig support again shows how good it is.









For the mpst part the LGA1150 cooler mounting issue is just hype. Check out this review. Jump in to about 3:10 to see light abuse. Got to 3:40 to see serious abuse. Stop and think about it a little The do all of this with a runnng system .. and it still keeps right on running. (the blank monitor was power cable) Then jump to 5:00 and look at condition of case, PSU, etc. when they open up the box. Yeah, the Skylake chip is deformed too .. but it still worked!! And who in their right mind would bounce their computer around like that .. even the first drops on the desk?
http://www.pcgameshardware.de/Skylake-Codename-259478/Specials/Skylake-Gefaehrdung-durch-Kuehler-1180505/


----------



## stadtlandfluss

Hey, can anyone tell me if the C1 is compatible with the MSI Z170I and the Asus Z170I? Especially in terms of the backplate.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Does anyone know if there is any way to use a noctua fan on the Cryorig C7 do they sell any fan bracket?


----------



## hubwub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Does anyone know if there is any way to use a noctua fan on the Cryorig C7 do they sell any fan bracket?


It's a custom Cryorig fan. I don't think you can swap it out for a different fan.


----------



## MicroCat

Could use a set of these:

Pretty exotic technology and not available absolutely everywhere. But, close.

Check the thread here: http://www.overclock.net/t/753254/ziptie-screw/0_30

For every proprietary fan mounting system there's a handful of zipties, twist ties and duct tape that just says No!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> Could use a set of these:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty exotic technology and not available absolutely everywhere. But, close.
> 
> Check the thread here: http://www.overclock.net/t/753254/ziptie-screw/0_30
> 
> For every proprietary fan mounting system there's a handful of zipties, twist ties and duct tape that just says No!


You forgot rubberbands.








But you have a way to go before you catch up with Red Green over in Possum Lake. Red is much better than Tim, aka Tim Taylor, aka Tim Allen


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Does anyone know if there is any way to use a noctua fan on the Cryorig C7 do they sell any fan bracket?


I don't know. Chant find my C7 at the moment to check it out, but I'm sure if there is a will there is a way.







I tried to get a couple of the C7 fans to modify into a pull instead of a push design, but never received them. Guess they fell through the proverbial cracks like the mount barrel studs I sent some of to another member who had improper threading from factory on his and Steve said he would send me some in the post to replace.


----------



## TMatzelle60

i heard someplace else they were making a bracket for them. i contacted Cryorig and will post there response


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> i heard someplace else they were making a bracket for them. i contacted Cryorig and will post there response


I'm still looking for mine. Put it away when cleaning up for holidays adn don't remember where I put it. One of my closets is all shelves (6'x8'x2'deep) packed full of goodies. And there is too much to fit just in that one closet. I'll find it in the next few days .. I hope.


----------



## blackend

the c1 work in ASUS Z170IPRO


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Does anyone know if there is any way to use a noctua fan on the Cryorig C7 do they sell any fan bracket?


okay, found it!
Fin spacing of 1.28mm requires the use of very small zip-ties and the stepped surface of bottom by mounting frame is just big enough for the 4.8x3.9x 4.6mm (WxDxH) latching end of zip-tie when installed from bottom. This fits the zip-tie snugly into fins with end sticking out to go through fan mounting holes. Slip a 90-92mm fan onto the zip-tie shafts. You will need some kind of 'washer' to fit over fan mounting holes to keep another zip-tie latching head / end from sliding through the fan hole, but a piece of plastic with holes drilled (or melted) to fit the zip-tie and cut to fit over hole are easy to make. Skip them onto zip-tie, then slip another zip-tie latching end on. Job done.


----------



## stadtlandfluss

Hey Backend, great thank you ! my MSI Z170I Goes on eBay now, the Asus seems to be the one with less Problems....


----------



## Shneiky

My "Ways to better cooling in highly restrictive/silent cases" inspired by doyll. It features my trusty R1 Ultimate.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1589987/ways-to-better-cooling-in-highly-restrictive-silent-cases-h440-new-edition-review#post_24857063


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> My "Ways to better cooling in highly restrictive/silent cases" inspired by doyll. It features my trusty R1 Ultimate.


















If it'[s a highly restrictive case, it can't be inspired by my beliefs.















I don't believe in restrictiive cases. They need to be ventilated by whatever means possible.






















The least you could do is get the name right!
















"Ways to Better Cooling" link is in my sig. 1st post is index. Click on topics to see them.


----------



## Shneiky

If that was not a warm welcome, I don't know what is!









Well, not all of us want to hack and slash a case open









Anyway, I did post your "better ways" in the first post of the thread - and then added my own spin-off for my particular purpose. Would not be interesting if we both did the same thing, right?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> If that was not a warm welcome, I don't know what is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, not all of us want to hack and slash a case open
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I did post your "better ways" in the first post of the thread - and then added my own spin-off for my particular purpose. Would not be interesting if we both did the same thing, right?


I haven't yet had time to set down and read your build testing, but what I have read looks good.


----------



## buddynho

Guys iv recently instaled cryorig c1 on my skylake build.And the fan on idle makes 'strange' noise, like it was scratching itself somehow.When i put him into full speed the strange sounde disapears.Maybe i screw him to tight or to soft?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buddynho*
> 
> Guys iv recently instaled cryorig c1 on my skylake build.And the fan on idle makes 'strange' noise, like it was scratching itself somehow.When i put him into full speed the strange sounde disapears.Maybe i screw him to tight or to soft?


It seems like you are describing the symptoms of a bad fan bearing. I would contact Cryorig CS and ask for a replacement fan.


----------



## Ixander

I just want to show my love for this CPU Cooler, it's a beauty


----------



## doyll

They are indeed a beautiful cooler.








And performance is exceptional. None are really any better .. and many are much worse.


----------



## Mampus

By tomorrow, I should've join this club









My stock-clocked 2500K with 'broken' stock cooler (one of it's 'leg' just won't snug into 'the hole') just hit 55 deg C in idle, and 89 deg C in load after playing NFS Most Wanted 2012!

I still have two GT AP-15, will buy the H7, and use it in push/pull config









Let's see how this so-called "212 killer" perform in my rig


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mampus*
> 
> By tomorrow, I should've join this club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My stock-clocked 2500K with 'broken' stock cooler (one of it's 'leg' just won't snug into 'the hole') just hit 55 deg C in idle, and 89 deg C in load after playing NFS Most Wanted 2012!
> 
> I still have two GT AP-15, will buy the H7, and use it in push/pull config
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's see how this so-called "212 killer" perform in my rig


Just being here and showing interest makes you one of us.








Look forward to hearing how well it works. AP-15 has great airflow and low noise so should do a nice job. Will be interesting to see how one performs compared to stock H7 fan.


----------



## Mampus

Bought H7 today (cheaper that 212X Turbo in my country), installation is indeed easy, outstanding RAM clearance (want to buy 2133 MHz stick one day, tall heatsink is quite common for that speed) With Cinebench R15 in stock, I get 54 deg C @100% load.. Impressive, considering ambient temp is about 29-30 deg C here. I think I can get 4.2 GHz easily








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Just being here and showing interest makes you one of us.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look forward to hearing how well it works. AP-15 has great airflow and low noise so should do a nice job. Will be interesting to see how one performs compared to stock H7 fan.


Unfortunately, H7 fanclip is too loose to 'grab' my GT. Ended up with stock fan in pull. Seems that you cannot use H7 with non-stock fan without modifying your fan with some rubber dampening that H7 use. I'm quite sad :'(


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mampus*
> 
> Bought H7 today (cheaper that 212X Turbo in my country), installation is indeed easy, outstanding RAM clearance (want to buy 2133 MHz stick one day, tall heatsink is quite common for that speed) With Cinebench R15 in stock, I get 54 deg C @100% load.. Impressive, considering ambient temp is about 29-30 deg C here. I think I can get 4.2 GHz easily
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, H7 fanclip is too loose to 'grab' my GT. Ended up with stock fan in pull. Seems that you cannot use H7 with non-stock fan without modifying your fan with some rubber dampening that H7 use. I'm quite sad :'(


Those are great temps.








Did you try bending the corners I've circled in the drawing to shorten the fan clip so it will clip the fan on? Might work


----------



## Mampus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Those are great temps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you try bending the corners I've circled in the drawing to shorten the fan clip so it will clip the fan on? Might work


Ah, never crossed in my mind before. Thx for the tips! As you said, temps are great, will run stock for a while since I'm not doing CPU intensive task lately. Also, I probably want to buy some rubber pads before putting the GT in push/pull









More people should know about this cooler. Wish it have MultiSeg mounting though (with that awesome, black-plated, long screwdriver of course lol)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mampus*
> 
> Ah, never crossed in my mind before. Thx for the tips! As you said, temps are great, will run stock for a while since I'm not doing CPU intensive task lately. Also, I probably want to buy some rubber pads before putting the GT in push/pull
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More people should know about this cooler. Wish it have MultiSeg mounting though (with that awesome, black-plated, long screwdriver of course lol)


The H7 does a great job right out of the box, so don't be surprised when a month or so from now you notice dust pilling up the GTs, and the shelf they are setting on. You know, where they are not and sense it's cooling so well you haven't got around to mounting the GTs on the cooler.


----------



## jmdulay

I just got a Cryorig C7 for my SFF build. Got it from Amazon and had to use a freight forwarder to ship it here to the Philippines. We don't have a lot of good very low profile coolers here (sub 58mm) so I wanted to try this out. I'm glad I did! Very pleased with the results on my 6700k!

Anyway, I noticed that the backplate is very, very close to the M.2 slot on my motherboard (Gigabyte Z170N-Gaming5) so I wondered if there was a way to get those alternate washers.



I went ahead and just sent an e-mail to Cryorig about this and to my surprise, they responded right away and got my washers in under 2 days! That's hell of a lot faster than getting the C7 itself.

I just wanted to say that Cryorig's customer service is one of the best I've experienced in such a long time!


----------



## Aggrotech

Anyone know what the fan height adjustment is on the plastic ornament pieces for the R1 Ultimate/Universal?

The official Cryorig website states "RAM Height Limit 30 ~ 35 mm ( Fan position adjustable )"
and the ram im looking into is http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231791 I'm just not sure if the ram needs to be between 30-35mm, or if I can adjust the fan from the 35mm to somethin higher.

Anyone have any suggestions for some good ram that they know will for sure fit the r1? Havent bought any other parts yet (waiting on godlike carbon, if for whatever reason i dont get that it'll most likely be the msi x99a plus) Just havin a hard time finding ram that'll work


----------



## hypespazm

I have a RAMPAGE IV EXTREME and im using all * dimm slots whill the cryorig R1 Ultimate work for me? also will it block out my pci slot?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aggrotech*
> 
> Anyone know what the fan height adjustment is on the plastic ornament pieces for the R1 Ultimate/Universal?
> 
> The official Cryorig website states "RAM Height Limit 30 ~ 35 mm ( Fan position adjustable )"
> and the ram im looking into is http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231791 I'm just not sure if the ram needs to be between 30-35mm, or if I can adjust the fan from the 35mm to somethin higher.
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions for some good ram that they know will for sure fit the r1? Havent bought any other parts yet (waiting on godlike carbon, if for whatever reason i dont get that it'll most likely be the msi x99a plus) Just havin a hard time finding ram that'll work


Modern RAM generates very little heat and does not need a heatsink. None at all. Why RAM has heatsinks is nothing but bells and whistles and marketing hype.

G.Skill Ripjaws 4 is 40mm tall. RAM socket raises it another 3mm meaning it stands 43mm above surface of motherboard or 35mm above top of CPU

On my cooler I measured fan from lowest to highest and found clearance for 31-42mm tall RAM under fan. If you want clearance between RAM and fan tallest RAM would be about 40mm. This is only for RAM in front of cooler If you have RAM sockets behind cooler the maximum clearance is 31mm
Best solution is get RAM without heat spreaders or with small ones.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hypespazm*
> 
> I have a RAMPAGE IV EXTREME and im using all * dimm slots whill the cryorig R1 Ultimate work for me? also will it block out my pci slot?


R1 fits motherboard with no problems. RAM clearance depends on what RAM you choose.


----------



## Minimeeshka

Hello, guys. I have an R1 Ultimate cooler from Cryorig on a ASUS Z170-A motherboard.
I have encountered a problem of a broken screw on a heatsink's deck. I already saw a discussion here, some people complained about this issue as well. I took a photo from a guy with the same problem, it looks like this:

The screw just broke, when i tried to screw it. So, as far as i understood, the Cryroig support is very nice and all that, so they just send you a spare screw. But what i wonder is how i replace this thing. I've never seen such screws before and i can't understand, how i unmount my broken screw from the deck and mount a new one.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minimeeshka*
> 
> Hello, guys. I have an R1 Ultimate cooler from Cryorig on a ASUS Z170-A motherboard.
> I have encountered a problem of a broken screw on a heatsink's deck. I already saw a discussion here, some people complained about this issue as well. I took a photo from a guy with the same problem, it looks like this:
> 
> The screw just broke, when i tried to screw it. So, as far as i understood, the Cryroig support is very nice and all that, so they just send you a spare screw. But what i wonder is how i replace this thing. I've never seen such screws before and i can't understand, how i unmount my broken screw from the deck and mount a new one.


Contatct Cryorig and they will solve it with you.

But honestly it is not a Cryorig problem. It is the person screwing it in who makes the mistake of over-tightening the screw. It is very easy to do. The 'L' shaped of supplied screwdriver applies way more torque than a normal screwdriver and the Cryorig mounting screws go in so easily people don't realize it is tight until the screw snaps.


----------



## xtreemeNoob

i am seriously confused between the a40 ultimate and the R1 ultimate, can't take decisions, since no direct comparison review is available between this two.

Help to suggest please.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xtreemeNoob*
> 
> i am seriously confused between the a40 ultimate and the R1 ultimate, can't take decisions, since no direct comparison review is available between this two.
> 
> Help to suggest please.


The A40 is another Asetek CLC that may perform a few degrees better than the R1 at the expense of much more noise. In the HardwareOverclock review (which is compared to the R1 Uni) those 2c cooler temps required 4 times the noise level! 10dB increase in noise per degree cooler? No, thanks. There's other ways to find a few more degrees of cooling with a great air cooler, from case airflow improvements to better TIM / application and proper cooler installation.

In the HardwareOverclock A40 review, they measured a 56dB noise level - for me that is well beyond mere annoyance level and is not worth the tradeoff. They don't supply the temp data at the lower fan settings, but as the tests at HiTech Legion have demonstrated with all Asetek-based CLCs, when the noise level is restricted to < 40dB, the CLCs run 6-8 degrees hotter than the best air coolers.



Pretty much guaranteed the A40 won't cool near as well as the R1 when running in its 'silent' mode. It's funny that the A40's silent mode is the same as the R1 Ultimate at its loudest, 38dB.

I can only assume Cryorig chose to release noisy Asetek CLCs due to market pressure, not because they found a way to operate high fpi rads at low airflow and low noise. The addon 75mm fan is a nice marketing novelty and possibly not a bad thing considering the spotty reliability record of Asetek pumps. There are more effective ways to cool MB VRMs if their temps are an issue.

If you value much quieter cooling at nearly the same temps for lower cost, then it's not much of decision to make, the R1 wins easily. If you feel the pressure of the CLC marketing machine, then it might be a little tougher, but the R1 still wins, since it's less costly and looks much sexier.

If somehow you feel drawn to water cooling, better to move to either a higher quality, higher cost AIO from Swiftech or EK or jump into the custom water loop pool with a large reservoir of money to keep the rig afloat.


----------



## xtreemeNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> The A40 is another Asetek CLC that may perform a few degrees better than the R1 at the expense of much more noise. In the HardwareOverclock review (which is compared to the R1 Uni) those 2c cooler temps required 4 times the noise level! 10dB increase in noise per degree cooler? No, thanks. There's other ways to find a few more degrees of cooling with a great air cooler, from case airflow improvements to better TIM / application and proper cooler installation.
> 
> In the HardwareOverclock A40 review, they measured a 56dB noise level - for me that is well beyond mere annoyance level and is not worth the tradeoff. They don't supply the temp data at the lower fan settings, but as the tests at HiTech Legion have demonstrated with all Asetek-based CLCs, when the noise level is restricted to < 40dB, the CLCs run 6-8 degrees hotter than the best air coolers.
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty much guaranteed the A40 won't cool near as well as the R1 when running in its 'silent' mode. It's funny that the A40's silent mode is the same as the R1 Ultimate at its loudest, 38dB.
> 
> I can only assume Cryorig chose to release noisy Asetek CLCs due to market pressure, not because they found a way to operate high fpi rads at low airflow and low noise. The addon 75mm fan is a nice marketing novelty and possibly not a bad thing considering the spotty reliability record of Asetek pumps. There are more effective ways to cool MB VRMs if their temps are an issue.
> 
> If you value much quieter cooling at nearly the same temps for lower cost, then it's not much of decision to make, the R1 wins easily. If you feel the pressure of the CLC marketing machine, then it might be a little tougher, but the R1 still wins, since it's less costly and looks much sexier.
> 
> If somehow you feel drawn to water cooling, better to move to either a higher quality, higher cost AIO from Swiftech or EK or jump into the custom water loop pool with a large reservoir of money to keep the rig afloat.


thanks for the detailed explanation, really appreciate it.

One more thing i saw in few r1 ultimate videos including that of the hitech legion that the installtion brackets and the backplates moves/shakes even if fully tight on, why is that and how can that loose mounting apply enough pressure to keep things cool ?


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xtreemeNoob*
> 
> thanks for the detailed explanation, really appreciate it.
> 
> One more thing i saw in few r1 ultimate videos including that of the hitech legion that the installtion brackets and the backplates moves/shakes even if fully tight on, why is that and how can that loose mounting apply enough pressure to keep things cool ?


The mounting system is very good as is the mounting pressure, but have seen backplate compatibility issues with certain motherboards. However, applying too much torque to the mounting screws can shear them off making the mount loose.

In this thread, there's an example of sheared screws: http://www.overclock.net/t/1461923/cryorig-fan-cooler-club-r1-ult-r1-uni-c1-h5-xf140-xt140/480_30#post_23099261

Do you have some links where the loose mounting is demonstrated despite a correct mounting procedure?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xtreemeNoob*
> 
> thanks for the detailed explanation, really appreciate it.
> 
> One more thing i saw in few r1 ultimate videos including that of the hitech legion that the installtion brackets and the backplates moves/shakes even if fully tight on, why is that and how can that loose mounting apply enough pressure to keep things cool ?


I agree with MicroCat.









Cooler mounts really don't supply much pressure. A big cooler just setting on the IHSs applies significantly more pressure than Intel specifies

*Intel specifications* say ILM (Independent Loading Mechanism) static compression *load on processor IHS* (Integrated Heat Spreader) is *70-135 pounds per square foot (311-600 Nm).*

That is only *0.486 - 0.9375 pounds per square inch*.

Top of LGA1151 is 1.12x1.15 inches, or *1.288 square inches (8.31 square cm)*.

The *maximum cooler weight* Intel recommends for *LGA1151* in their specifications is *1.2 pounds (544.3 g)*.

Less weight than 120mm fanned single tower coolers.

For example
*TRUE Spirit 120 i with fan weights 568 g.*
*Intel's BXTS15A cooler weights 435 g.*


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I agree with MicroCat.


What?! Have you been drinking the kittynip?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Cooler mounts really don't supply much pressure. A big cooler just setting on the IHSs applies significantly more pressure than Intel specifies


Well...the mount pressure for most backplate-equipped coolers ranges from about 30-70 pounds. Need to define what not much pressure is. In your high pressure world, that's probably nothing at all.









While you didn't like the conclusion, @ehume's recent Scythe Fuma test demonstrated a substantial difference in temps between low and high mounting pressure.

We might want to pull out our strain gauges and high pressure calculators and research this ourselves.

The easy test would be to mount the cooler so only gravity is pushing the cooler onto the IHS. Need to test in a horizontal (proper) layout case or testbench. Then compare the results to a normal 'screwed-in' mount. My little kitty fund money would be on the normal mount exhibiting much better temps than the gravitationally secured mount.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> *Intel specifications* say ILM (Independent Loading Mechanism) static compression *load on processor IHS* (Integrated Heat Spreader) is *70-135 pounds per square foot (311-600 Nm).*
> 
> That is only *0.486 - 0.9375 pounds per square inch*.
> 
> Top of LGA1151 is 1.12x1.15 inches, or *1.288 square inches (8.31 square cm)*.
> 
> The *maximum cooler weight* Intel recommends for *LGA1151* in their specifications is *1.2 pounds (544.3 g)*.
> 
> Less weight than 120mm fanned single tower coolers.
> 
> For example
> *TRUE Spirit 120 i with fan weights 568 g.*
> *Intel's BXTS15A cooler weights 435 g.*


So the peak pressure from some 'high-pressure' mounts is still well below the max figure stated by Intel. In the many years that big coolers have been mounted on CPUs, not many have been crushed. Altho, possibly some deserved to be. The recent Skylake cheaper thinner pcb issues excepted.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> What?! Have you been drinking the kittynip?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well...the mount pressure for most backplate-equipped coolers ranges from about 30-70 pounds. Need to define what not much pressure is. In your high pressure world, that's probably nothing at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While you didn't like the conclusion, @ehume's recent Scythe Fuma test demonstrated a substantial difference in temps between low and high mounting pressure.
> 
> We might want to pull out our strain gauges and high pressure calculators and research this ourselves.
> 
> The easy test would be to mount the cooler so only gravity is pushing the cooler onto the IHS. Need to test in a horizontal (proper) layout case or testbench. Then compare the results to a normal 'screwed-in' mount. My little kitty fund money would be on the normal mount exhibiting much better temps than the gravitationally secured mount.
> So the peak pressure from some 'high-pressure' mounts is still well below the max figure stated by Intel. In the many years that big coolers have been mounted on CPUs, not many have been crushed. Altho, possibly some deserved to be. The recent Skylake cheaper thinner pcb issues excepted.


Either you are jerking my chain or reading the data backwards. The static weight of a cooler is as much or more than Intel pressure specifications. 30-70 pound per square foot, not inch.

70 -135 pounds per square foot is from less less than 1/2 to less than 1 pound per square inch .. and the top of CPU IHS is just a little bigger than 1 inch square.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xtreemeNoob*
> 
> thanks for the detailed explanation, really appreciate it.
> 
> One more thing i saw in few r1 ultimate videos including that of the hitech legion that the installtion brackets and the backplates moves/shakes even if fully tight on, why is that and how can that loose mounting apply enough pressure to keep things cool ?


When you tighten the cooler down, it pulls the backplate tight. It is not loose or wobbly when the install is completed.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> The A40 is another Asetek CLC that may perform a few degrees better than the R1 at the expense of much more noise. In the HardwareOverclock review (which is compared to the R1 Uni) those 2c cooler temps required 4 times the noise level! 10dB increase in noise per degree cooler? No, thanks. There's other ways to find a few more degrees of cooling with a great air cooler, from case airflow improvements to better TIM / application and proper cooler installation.


As a note, a 40dB increase would actually be easily 1000x or so louder, as decibels are an exponential measurement. Or was that intensity, it's too early in the morning. Either way, an increase of 10dB(m) is a rather noticeable change in volume, so going from 38 to 56 decibels is going to be something people would joke that even someone who's actually deaf would notice.


----------



## Aggrotech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Modern RAM generates very little heat and does not need a heatsink. None at all. Why RAM has heatsinks is nothing but bells and whistles and marketing hype.
> 
> G.Skill Ripjaws 4 is 40mm tall. RAM socket raises it another 3mm meaning it stands 43mm above surface of motherboard or 35mm above top of CPU
> 
> On my cooler I measured fan from lowest to highest and found clearance for 31-42mm tall RAM under fan. If you want clearance between RAM and fan tallest RAM would be about 40mm. This is only for RAM in front of cooler If you have RAM sockets behind cooler the maximum clearance is 31mm
> Best solution is get RAM without heat spreaders or with small ones.


Perfect! Well from what I can tell, leaves me with either HyperX Fury, or Corsair Vengeance LPX.


----------



## ehume

Intel specifies 50 lbf (pounds force) for the 115x socket. PDF Table 5, page 25 of document.

Always buy low profile RAM or ultra-low profile RAM. Mine is from Crucial.

Also look at this.


----------



## doyll

50lbf (pound per square foot) sounds like a lot, but when converted to pounds on the area of CPU IHS it is very little.

While applying 50 lb/ft mounting pressure is part of if it, so is the weight and orientation of cooler.
Intel lists three weight specifications.
ILM static compressive load on IHS . . . . . . . . 135 lb/f (600 N/m)
Heatsink static compressive load. . . . . . . . . . . 50 lb/f (222 N/m)
Total static compressive load (ILM + heatsink) 185 lb/f (922 N/m)

The combined weight is as critical as mount pressure (static compression). And as I said before, the area of IHS is about 1.288 square inches. 50 lb/f is only 0.447 lb of pressure on that amount of surface area.
For a quick comparison, if we are standing on an ocean beach, the air around us exerts 2116 lb/f (14.694 lb/in) of pressure onto us and everything around us.









So what is it?
Is Intel miss-stating the compression load and cooler weight with their 50 lbf?
Or is the mounting pressure limit really supposed to be less than 1/2 pound?

Intel's BXTS15A cooler weights 435 g (0.959 lb) .. and that setting on a horizontal IHS is 107.22 lb/f (583.61 N/m) plus 50 lb/f is 157.22 lb/ft (855.766 N/m) before the mount is even used. If mount uses more than 12.168 lb/f (66.234 N/m), Intel's 50 lb/f is exceeded.
I wonder what that translates to with IHS in vertical position (like in a tower case)?
For a quick comparison, if we are standing on an ocean beach, the air around us exerts 2116 lb/f (14.694 lb/in) of pressure onto us and everything around us.









Basically what this all boils down to is Intel mounting specifications mean very little. Just the weight of most mid-size and larger coolers applies more pressure on a horizontal CPU IHS than Intel's maximum specification .. and that is before the mount is even tightened down.

We have been using these heavier coolers with much higher mounting pressure for years and years and years, yet there have been very few problems. I heard something about @ehume damaging a CPU and/or socket years back. Can't remember the details. Would be interesting to know exactly what they were. But we really don't need to worry much (if any) about cooler weight or mounting pressure .. because almost all CPUs are mounted with more pressure than Intel specifications say is safe.


----------



## poinguan

My room ambient temp is about 95°F or 35°C. I'm looking for a CPU cooler, either Cryorig H7 or C1.
I know my room is hot. Is C1 more suitable since it also cools the motherboard's VRM and RAM too? I'm just worried of excessive heat around the mobo area if I use the H7. Or it doesn't matter at all since modern motherboard and RAM can withstand lots of heat?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poinguan*
> 
> My room ambient temp is about 95°F or 35°C. I'm looking for a CPU cooler, either Cryorig H7 or C1.
> I know my room is hot. Is C1 more suitable since it also cools the motherboard's VRM and RAM too? I'm just worried of excessive heat around the mobo area if I use the H7. Or it doesn't matter at all since modern motherboard and RAM can withstand lots of heat?


Both are good coolers. I prefer tower cooler wherever possible because it's genereally easier to remove tehir heated exhaust without it contaminating their cool air supply. The degrees warmer cooler intake air is basically means the same degrees warmer the CPU will be. With your room being so warm, I would use the biggest bestest cooler I could.







You might find 'Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig of interest. 1st post is index, click on topics to see them. 5th post is about case airflow and cooling.


----------



## poinguan

Does that mean I don't have to worry about VRM cooling (if I use tower cooler)?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poinguan*
> 
> Does that mean I don't have to worry about VRM cooling (if I use tower cooler)?


If you have oriented the cooler such that the fan airflow is passing over the motherboard VRMs, sure it will help. But given that you generally have to ensure good case airflow with air coolers anyway, it will be fine already.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poinguan*
> 
> Does that mean I don't have to worry about VRM cooling (if I use tower cooler)?


Probably not, but it's not as simple as that. Some VRM run much hotter than others. Some need more air. AMD run notoriously hot, as do the old X58. I've found using 'normal' height RAM instead of this mega-tall metal rapped stuff most people buy allows airflow over it and under the cooler and cools VRM nicely. The lower the tower cooler fan / fans set, the more airflow there is over motherboard components around CPU. I rarely use the I / O shied in the back of case to increase airflow over motherboard behind CPU and out the back of case.


----------



## Dan-H

I finally found time to install the Phanteks PH-F140HP fans on my R1 ultimate. The sole reason was to reduce sound at idle over the fans that came with the R1.

TL;DR -- they work and I'm happy !

After a fair amount of reading and suggestions, I picked a pair up of these fans last year. At that time the White / Red was $14.50 US, and I had a coupon to add to an order that made these almost free so I decided to buy them. The other colors were 3x the price. Also, since my case isn't windowed I was less concerned about the overall looks but, when done it doesn't look that bad.

Idle CPU core temps are identical best I can tell and. I haven't done any long duration stress tests, and I don't see the need until the weather gets warmer but so far I have no concerns.

Another change I made was to swap out three mis-matched 140MM fans and replace them with two Fractal GP-14s. I did away with the side mount fan. When summer rolls around I might add it back.

Current setup:
Intake:
two front GP-14 140mm
one bottom GP-140mm.
Intakes are set to a fixed speed (I assume 5V) using the case harness.
Exhaust:
one GP-14 140mm. This is set at 25% minimum, which is 351 RPM per speedfan.

I've followed advice from @Doyll and removed the PCI slot blanks.

So it is quieter and so far just as cool. With three fans matching on the intake a future to-do is to have these controlled from the motherboard, or I might setup a fan controller that I picked up for another system that wasn't needed.

< this post is useless without pictures >




I intended to take a better picture from the front showing the CPU fan frame sitting on top of the memory with the heat sink extender removed but is too blurry to show detail. The front fan needs to be about 1/4 to 3/8 inch higher than where it seems it should fit. the Fractal R5 has enough room to allow this thankfully.

Overall I'm happy to have found the suggestions here to try new fans.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> I finally found time to install the Phanteks PH-F140HP fans on my R1 ultimate. The sole reason was to reduce sound at idle over the fans that came with the R1.
> 
> TL;DR -- they work and I'm happy !
> 
> After a fair amount of reading and suggestions, I picked a pair up of these fans last year. At that time the White / Red was $14.50 US, and I had a coupon to add to an order that made these almost free so I decided to buy them. The other colors were 3x the price. Also, since my case isn't windowed I was less concerned about the overall looks but, when done it doesn't look that bad.
> 
> Idle CPU core temps are identical best I can tell and. I haven't done any long duration stress tests, and I don't see the need until the weather gets warmer but so far I have no concerns.
> 
> Another change I made was to swap out three mis-matched 140MM fans and replace them with two Fractal GP-14s. I did away with the side mount fan. When summer rolls around I might add it back.
> 
> Current setup:
> Intake:
> two front GP-14 140mm
> one bottom GP-140mm.
> Intakes are set to a fixed speed (I assume 5V) using the case harness.
> Exhaust:
> one GP-14 140mm. This is set at 25% minimum, which is 351 RPM per speedfan.
> 
> I've followed advice from @Doyll and removed the PCI slot blanks.
> 
> So it is quieter and so far just as cool. With three fans matching on the intake a future to-do is to have these controlled from the motherboard, or I might setup a fan controller that I picked up for another system that wasn't needed.
> 
> < this post is useless without pictures >
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I intended to take a better picture from the front showing the CPU fan frame sitting on top of the memory with the heat sink extender removed but is too blurry to show detail. The front fan needs to be about 1/4 to 3/8 inch higher than where it seems it should fit. the Fractal R5 has enough room to allow this thankfully.
> 
> Overall I'm happy to have found the suggestions here to try new fans.


Nicely done!









I suggest front intakes controlled by CPU heat and bottom intake by GPU heat. This can be done on most by using PWM control from CPU and GPU fan headers (assuming they have PWM controlled fans). 4th post in "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig explains how to do it. Also raising your case 30mm improves airflow to bottom intakes while lowering noise levels too .. as does removing punched metal grills from bottom and back (48th post). Most anything can be used to raise the case .. bottle caps to open bottom castor base. I like the ease of moving system with castor base, but it's much more work than setting some spacer blocks under the feet.


----------



## Nickyvida

Got my CP-5 order in today and replaced the thermal paste in my H5 universal as it was drying up. Thanks Cryorig!



It's doing well, knocked off a couple of degrees from the paste before and is a solid paste but i'm not sure where it stands against other pastes in the market like the Gelid GC extreme.

Not sure why Asus AI Suite is reading 37 degrees while hwmonitor and perfmonitor are reading in excess of 40+ at idle though.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Got my CP-5 order in today and replaced the thermal paste in my H5 universal as it was drying up. Thanks Cryorig!
> 
> It's doing well, knocked off a couple of degrees from the paste before and is a solid paste but i'm not sure where it stands against other pastes in the market like the Gelid GC extreme.
> 
> Not sure why Asus AI Suite is reading 37 degrees while hwmonitor and perfmonitor are reading in excess of 40+ at idle though.


Cause AI Suite is terrible. The software can't read core temps, only socket temps / package.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Cause AI Suite is terrible. The software can't read core temps, only socket temps / package.


Ah i see. So HWmonitor/perfmonitor is the to go for correct temps?

If that's the case, is 40 idle quite worrying? i've reseated the heatsink twice so far but it's still the same.

My ambient temps are quite high, around 30-35 so i'm not sure if that's a factor.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Ah i see. So HWmonitor/perfmonitor is the to go for correct temps?
> 
> If that's the case, is 40 idle quite worrying? i've reseated the heatsink twice so far but it's still the same.
> 
> My ambient temps are quite high, around 30-35 so i'm not sure if that's a factor.


That depends on your system. Please fill in your rigbuilder so we know what you have.
Can't help without every detail.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> That depends on your system. Please fill in your rigbuilder so we know what you have.
> Can't help without every detail.


Thanks for your help. i tried to fill up rigbuilder but it's a little finicky.

System Specs

i7 4770k(stock clock)
Z87 Plus
Cryorig H5 Universal with 2 XF140 fans
NZXT Phantom 630 with 3 200mm intake fans, 140mm exhaust and 140mm intake
MSI R9 390 TFV
WD Black 1TB HDD
Corsair Neutron GTX SSD
Win 8.1
G skill Ripjaws RAM.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> i7 4770k(stock clock)
> Z87 Plus
> Cryorig H5 Universal with 2 XF140 fans
> NZXT Phantom 630 with 3 200mm intake fans, 140mm exhaust and 140mm intake
> MSI R9 390 TFV
> WD Black 1TB HDD
> Corsair Neutron GTX SSD
> Win 8.1
> G skill Ripjaws RAM.


That is a lot of intake. Front, bottom, side as intake, top, rear exhaust.
You want to remove the HDD cages as they block the front intake.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> That is a lot of intake. Front, bottom, side as intake, top, rear exhaust.
> You want to remove the HDD cages as they block the front intake.


Oops i see. Top fans should be exhaust?

Thanks for your help! Appreciate it Will try the changes and report back.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> That is a lot of intake. Front, bottom, side as intake, top, rear exhaust.
> You want to remove the HDD cages as they block the front intake.


Keep in mind that those NZXT 200mm don't move all that much air, especially at lower speeds.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Thanks for your help. i tried to fill up rigbuilder but it's a little finicky.
> 
> System Specs
> 
> i7 4770k(stock clock)
> Z87 Plus
> Cryorig H5 Universal with 2 XF140 fans
> NZXT Phantom 630 with 3 200mm intake fans, 140mm exhaust and 140mm intake
> MSI R9 390 TFV
> WD Black 1TB HDD
> Corsair Neutron GTX SSD
> Win 8.1
> G skill Ripjaws RAM.


I suggest you try front and bottom in with top unplugged. Top fans as exhaust draw the heated exhaust coming off of GPU up around CPU cooler, meaning CPU runs hotter because the air it is being cooled with is hotter. And remove all unused PCIe back slot covers. This helps with added exhaust airflow by allowing the heated air around GPU to flow back and out of case rather than up toward CPU.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nicely done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest front intakes controlled by CPU heat and bottom intake by GPU heat. This can be done on most by using PWM control from CPU and GPU fan headers (assuming they have PWM controlled fans). 4th post in "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig explains how to do it. Also raising your case 30mm improves airflow to bottom intakes while lowering noise levels too .. as does removing punched metal grills from bottom and back (48th post). Most anything can be used to raise the case .. bottle caps to open bottom castor base. I like the ease of moving system with castor base, but it's much more work than setting some spacer blocks under the feet.


Thanks for the suggestions. Not making excuses, ( OK, maybe a little bit) My original setup had all the fans controlled by the motherboard, but the Gigabyte SIV fan control sofware sucked so badly I gave up and ran the case fans from the case wiring at a fixed speed as a stop gap until I could sort out the fan control with SpeedFan. While not perfect is was good enough, but once it starts getting warmer I'll likely find some time to improve on it more.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions. Not making excuses, ( OK, maybe a little bit) My original setup had all the fans controlled by the motherboard, but the Gigabyte SIV fan control sofware sucked so badly I gave up and ran the case fans from the case wiring at a fixed speed as a stop gap until I could sort out the fan control with SpeedFan. While not perfect is was good enough, but once it starts getting warmer I'll likely find some time to improve on it more.


I can understand that. I have two systems setting out, one on end of bench and other on a TV tray because I haven't taken the time to setup cases and install them.


----------



## Emmexx

Moved my HTPC setup from 540 to 240 in future prep for a gaming rig. C1 for the cooler and XT 140s lining the sides. They are the best 140mm fans I could fit between the mobo and sides. Phenomenal fans and love the cooler.


----------



## kckyle

i'm about to build a new micro atx, when is the Z1 gonna hit the market?


----------



## poinguan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> i'm about to build a new micro atx, when is the Z1 gonna hit the market?


Since Computex 2015 ... and no news on it. It does look sexy.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> i'm about to build a new micro atx, when is the Z1 gonna hit the market?


Maybe we need to use set back with the new Cryorig Air Fan VR and be patient.










http://www.cryorig.com/news.php?id=56&page=1

I'm still waiting for my "Cloud' Air Fort One to arrive. Should be any time now. Only been one year 4 days.


----------



## killerfromsky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Yeah, we also noticed this problem with some ITX boards. We have just finalized a new mounting mechanism that does not use the backplate. We've tested it on the M9, C7 and H7. Basically it's just added washers that replace the backplate's thickness. A backplateless installation is all fine with the C7 and M9 due to the lower weight. However, it's not 100% recommended on the H5 on up. The H7 is on the fence, it's safe to install with the washer method but we generally advise to use the backplate if you can. So please only use the washer method if you have interference problems on the back of the board.
> 
> Please write in to [email protected] and ask for the C7 washers. Our guy will send out the support parts to you free of charge.


I'm most likely going to order the following cryorig products:
The C1 for ASUS B150i pro gaming/aura/wifi
http://hexus.net/media/uploaded/2016/2/523a933c-65b4-465b-8e40-c83fcf87bc1e.JPG

The M9i for ASUS Maximus V Gene
http://www.overclockersclub.com/siteimages/articles/asus_maximusv_gene/17_thumb.jpg

Will I run into any problems?


----------



## Velathawen

Hey guys, just bought some XF140 fans locally and they have the clicking noise mentioned earlier in the post. Is there a guideline to disassembling and remounting the fan with oil to follow?

131217 is on the actual fan in case the batch number can help.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfromsky*
> 
> I'm most likely going to order the following cryorig products:
> The C1 for ASUS B150i pro gaming/aura/wifi
> http://hexus.net/media/uploaded/2016/2/523a933c-65b4-465b-8e40-c83fcf87bc1e.JPG
> 
> The M9i for ASUS Maximus V Gene
> http://www.overclockersclub.com/siteimages/articles/asus_maximusv_gene/17_thumb.jpg
> 
> Will I run into any problems?


The C1 on the B150i will be a small issue. The backplate will hit components on the back of the board on one side. The backplate is plastic and can be notched easily to clear them with no ill effects.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfromsky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Yeah, we also noticed this problem with some ITX boards. We have just finalized a new mounting mechanism that does not use the backplate. We've tested it on the M9, C7 and H7. Basically it's just added washers that replace the backplate's thickness. A backplateless installation is all fine with the C7 and M9 due to the lower weight. However, it's not 100% recommended on the H5 on up. The H7 is on the fence, it's safe to install with the washer method but we generally advise to use the backplate if you can. So please only use the washer method if you have interference problems on the back of the board.
> 
> Please write in to [email protected] and ask for the C7 washers. Our guy will send out the support parts to you free of charge.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm most likely going to order the following cryorig products:
> The C1 for ASUS B150i pro gaming/aura/wifi
> http://hexus.net/media/uploaded/2016/2/523a933c-65b4-465b-8e40-c83fcf87bc1e.JPG
> 
> The M9i for ASUS Maximus V Gene
> http://www.overclockersclub.com/siteimages/articles/asus_maximusv_gene/17_thumb.jpg
> 
> Will I run into any problems?
Click to expand...

I have both of those coolers. You shouldn't have any problems with the M9 ... it has a particularly small footprint.

The C1, on the other hand, may cause you issues. I couldn't find an ASUS board that I could add the C1 to and fit in my case (Silverstone Tek ML07B). I suggest you download the origami of the C1 and test it on that board.


----------



## killerfromsky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The C1 on the B150i will be a small issue. The backplate will hit components on the back of the board on one side. The backplate is plastic and can be notched easily to clear them with no ill effects.


The c1 backplate is metal? Its not the same as the plastic c7/m9i backplate?


----------



## killerfromsky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have both of those coolers. You shouldn't have any problems with the M9 ... it has a particularly small footprint.
> 
> The C1, on the other hand, may cause you issues. I couldn't find an ASUS board that I could add the C1 to and fit in my case (Silverstone Tek ML07B). I suggest you download the origami of the C1 and test it on that board.


I've seen it fit on multiple asus itx boards so far though, and they always have same cpu/memory locations?
Im more worried about the backplate, but dont think the c1 backplate had any incompatibility mentions?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfromsky*
> 
> I've seen it fit on multiple asus itx boards so far though, and they always have same cpu/memory locations?
> Im more worried about the backplate, but dont think the c1 backplate had any incompatibility mentions?


Ok....one more time....with a picture.....

The backplate contacts the components circled in yellow. However, the backplate is plastic and can easily be shaved/cut to clear them with no ill effects.



There are no issues with clearance on the front side of the MB.


----------



## killerfromsky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Ok....one more time....with a picture.....
> 
> The backplate contacts the components circled in yellow. However, the backplate is plastic and can easily be shaved/cut to clear them with no ill effects.
> 
> There are no issues with clearance on the front side of the MB.


Read my previous post please








Im using the c1 on the b150i pro gaming, and AFAIK the c1 has a metal backplate?

Thanks for the help so far though


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfromsky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have both of those coolers. You shouldn't have any problems with the M9 ... it has a particularly small footprint.
> 
> The C1, on the other hand, may cause you issues. I couldn't find an ASUS board that I could add the C1 to and fit in my case (Silverstone Tek ML07B). I suggest you download the origami of the C1 and test it on that board.
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen it fit on multiple asus itx boards so far though, and they always have same cpu/memory locations?
> Im more worried about the backplate, but dont think the c1 backplate had any incompatibility mentions?
Click to expand...

The main problem with my C1 and an ASUS board was the case ... the C1 overhung the board and wouldn't have fit inside the case.

I just checked my C1 ... and the back plate is black metal. See the product page and look at the auto-play installation video.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfromsky*
> 
> Read my previous post please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im using the c1 on the b150i pro gaming, and AFAIK the c1 has a metal backplate?
> 
> Thanks for the help so far though


yes....my mistake....getting old and too many backplates swimming around in my brain. It is metal, and also has no clearance issues on that board.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> yes....my mistake....getting old and too many backplates swimming around in my brain. It is metal, and also has no clearance issues on that board.


'Getting' old?? I knew you were old when you told me about remembering the invention of dirt.


----------



## killerfromsky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> The main problem with my C1 and an ASUS board was the case ... the C1 overhung the board and wouldn't have fit inside the case.
> 
> I just checked my C1 ... and the back plate is black metal. See the product page and look at the auto-play installation video.


The C1 backplate did interfere with the components on the back that you marked. But using that LGA775 rubber to lift the backplate solved that. So far so good.


----------



## CoreyL4

Just got my R1 Universal.

WOW it is big!


----------



## VSG

I am not sure how much this hive fin design helps but it sure looks cool:


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am not sure how much this hive fin design helps but it sure looks cool:


More surface area? I'm completely guessing.....I could never figure out any other possibility.


----------



## doyll

Just found another review of H7, and another reviewer likes it.








http://thermalbench.com/2016/04/30/cryorig-h7-cpu-cooler/
The 'Hive Fin' design also changes airflow pattern which may increase heat exchange between fin and airflow.


----------



## VSG

Wrong link maybe?









I can understand the design reasoning, just not sure how much real life impact it has vs all the other proprietary designs others use. I see the thread title needs updating though.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am not sure how much this hive fin design helps but it sure looks cool:


Yeah, I saw that in your review and it's... Spellbinding...


----------



## doyll

Cryorig fin packs are unique. The Hive design is on several. Here is view through the H5
The Hive fin design is unique. The leading edge of fins is staggered 1mm up and down on 11-12mm centers with the the fin and each 1mm offset tapers to flat fin in about 6mm. Fins are spaced on about 3mm centers. Here is a picture looking through H5 setting in window. You can see how easily air can flow through fins.
 

The R1 has two sets of fins with different spacing in each fin pack. I don't have any images with better detail.


----------



## CoreyL4

I am thoroughly impressed with the r1 universal. It is performing amazing.


----------



## dainfamous

Does the fan clips on the H7 have issues with closed ended/cornered fans?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> Does the fan clips on the H7 have issues with closed ended/cornered fans?


You may not be able to hook them in place fully, but some of the fans have rubber/flexible closed corners that may have enough give.


----------



## doyll

What geggeg said.

I think all Cryorig fan clips have a short right angle bit on the end. This hooks onto the inside edge of open flange mounting holes. If fan has closed holes it would make it a little harder to keep clips in place while mounting the fan .. kinda like many other fan clips are. So shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## mr squishy

Do we have a confirmed height for the Z1 when it comes out?


----------



## doyll

I think it's time we started an uprising and demand the Z1. You know have rallies, march on Cryorig headquarters, spray water on their other air coolers while chanting "We want Z1!! We want Z1!! We want Z1!! We want Z1!! We want Z1!! We want Z1!! We want Z1!! We want Z1!! We want Z1!! We want Z1!! We want Z1!! We want Z1!!"


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I think it's time we started an uprising and demand the Z1. You know have rallies, march on Cryorig headquarters, spray water on their other air coolers while chanting "We want Z1!! We want Z1!! We want Z1!! We want Z1!! We want Z1!! We want Z1!! We want Z1!! We want Z1!! We want Z1!! We want Z1!! We want Z1!! We want Z1!!"


Uh......

I just wanna know how tall it is









But also yes


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> Uh......
> 
> I just wanna know how tall it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But also yes


Sorry, I have seen nothing other than early teasers about it.
Start chanting:
"WE WANT Z1!! WE WANT Z1!! WE WANT Z1 WE WANT Z1!! WE WANT Z1!! WE WANT Z1 WE WANT Z1!! WE WANT Z1!! WE WANT Z1WE WANT Z1!! WE WANT Z1!! WE WANT Z1 WE WANT Z1!! WE WANT Z1!! WE WANT Z1 WE WANT Z1!! WE WANT Z1!! WE WANT Z1"

It is our mantra! A chant to be heard around the world!


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry, I have seen nothing other than early teasers about it.
> Start chanting:
> "WE WANT Z1!! WE WANT Z1!! WE WANT Z1 WE WANT Z1!! WE WANT Z1!! WE WANT Z1 WE WANT Z1!! WE WANT Z1!! WE WANT Z1WE WANT Z1!! WE WANT Z1!! WE WANT Z1 WE WANT Z1!! WE WANT Z1!! WE WANT Z1 WE WANT Z1!! WE WANT Z1!! WE WANT Z1"
> 
> It is our mantra! A chant to be heard around the world!


The only thing I can think is "Please be under 165mm tall. Please be under 165mm tall. Please be under 165mm tall."


----------



## ruffhi

We want a short Z1?


----------



## doyll

If original pics are a good example of what it will be, the future will show us a cooler about 160mm tall. I just scaled the image and that is about what it is.

I was going to upload the image, but for some reason OCN has not been allowing many users to upload properly. About half of image will upload, then an error pops up.








Quote:


> Some images failed to upload:
> Z1 est. height.png - {error}
> You can try re-selecting them and uploading again.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> We want a short Z1?


Maybe they will make a 120mm fan version that stands about 140mm tall. That be short enough?


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> We want a short Z1?


I want a short Z1. I want it to fit in my case so I can use it!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> I want a short Z1. I want it to fit in my case so I can use it!


What case is it?


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What case is it?


NZXT Vulcan.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> NZXT Vulcan.


Yeah, 165mm CPU clearance. If it stands on tip-toes the R1 might fit. It is actually 167mm tall.to top of plastic shroud and fans can be mounted flush..

But I want a Z1 too!!


----------



## sydefekt

Hi all, the Z1 cooler looks amazing! I can't wait for it to come out... I'm already thinking of how to possibly bend it to fit my case... I'll pop my C1 build in here to share. All the Cryorig builds here look so cool!


----------



## snk2700

I just put together a 6700k with an R1 Ultimate. I ran prime95 26.6 for about 10 minutes with these results. This seems high for this cooler doesn't it?


----------



## CoreyL4

Did you take the plastic part off the bottom?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Dont use prine95 for skylake.
Be sure to fill out your system build so we can get the correct help.
As is does seem high. How much thermal paste did you use?
How is your current airflow with your case?


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Yes very high for stock. Looks like your mobo/CPU are boosting your Vcore to over 1.5 volts there, there's your reason. Apparently some chip/mobo combos can over do the Vcore by quite a bit with Skylake.

I would suggest undervolting the chip through the BIOS using a good overclocking guide, or alternatively lower the Vcore to something like 1.4 in the BIOS and see how far you can overclock it. Youll probably get better temps as well as a faster CPU.


----------



## snk2700

I'm using the Maximus Hero VIII and I used one of the preset OC profiles that must be why the Vcore is so high. It's in a Corsair 750D case with stock case cooling and no side cover. When I was installing the heat sink I applied what I believed to be a very thin layer directly to the heat sink itself before install. I went over it several times with a business card to make sure it was thin.

It seems like the OC profile is the cause though.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Dont use prine95 for skylake.
> Be sure to fill out your system build so we can get the correct help.
> As is does seem high. How much thermal paste did you use?
> How is your current airflow with your case?


"Seem" high.








86-94c is smokin' hot! Kinda like Fort McMurray was a couple days ago .. as in burning hot.









But yeah Prime ancient history for load testing. I use X264 to test, but it's not as easy to use as some.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snk2700*
> 
> I'm using the Maximus Hero VIII and I used one of the preset OC profiles that must be why the Vcore is so high. It's in a Corsair 750D case with stock case cooling and no side cover. When I was installing the heat sink I applied what I believed to be a very thin layer directly to the heat sink itself before install. I went over it several times with a business card to make sure it was thin.
> 
> It seems like the OC profile is the cause though.


Run stock setting .. no OC until things get seated in and we have normal temps. I'm not sure why, but my Skylake got progressively lower temps for about a month before it settled. Started with low 30s idle and now it's low to mid 20s. Load were 70s, now 60s. These changes are not cooler seating to CPU. I've ran several different coolers with same temps. I really don't have an explanation for it .. maybe it's the die to IHS TIM seating. All I know for sure is it now runs cooler.

Case airflow is critical, and many people don't pay attention to it. If case air flow is heating up before cooler uses it, the CPU will be a degree hotter for every degree warmer the air is. You might find "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig helpful. 1st post is index, click on topic is see it. Post #5 is good place to start.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Jeez I didnt notice it was at 4290, I saw 42. I'd heard that the auto OC software was getting a bit better these days, but 1.5 volts for not even 100mhz over stock seems.. Excessive, you could say


----------



## Lays

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Dont use prine95 for skylake.
> Be sure to fill out your system build so we can get the correct help.
> As is does seem high. How much thermal paste did you use?
> How is your current airflow with your case?


Why no P95 on Skylake?

Haswell + Adaptive voltage + p95 was the bad thing, Skylake is fine with it in my experience.



At stock settings you should see temps a bit higher than mine, probably more in the 55-60c range. @snk2700


----------



## killerfromsky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> Yes very high for stock. Looks like your mobo/CPU are boosting your Vcore to over 1.5 volts there, there's your reason. Apparently some chip/mobo combos can over do the Vcore by quite a bit with Skylake.
> 
> I would suggest undervolting the chip through the BIOS using a good overclocking guide, or alternatively lower the Vcore to something like 1.4 in the BIOS and see how far you can overclock it. Youll probably get better temps as well as a faster CPU.


Pretty sure the actual VCore is the VID under the CPU in HWMonitor? And that is showing 1.287 as maximum.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfromsky*
> 
> Pretty sure the actual VCore is the VID under the CPU in HWMonitor? And that is showing 1.287 as maximum.


Far as I know VID is VID and Vcore is, Vcore.

Ive got an older version, where Vcore is further down the list and the VID's are at the top and tend to roughly match the Vcore. Dont know for sure, it would explain 90c temps at such a low multi though.


----------



## killerfromsky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> Far as I know VID is VID and Vcore is, Vcore.
> 
> Ive got an older version, where Vcore is further down the list and the VID's are at the top and tend to roughly match the Vcore. Dont know for sure, it would explain 90c temps at such a low multi though.


Well for me the VID at the bottom resembles the CPU-Z vcore on my 6700 (non K). And if I set a fixed voltage for vcore in bios, lets say 1.1 it will say 1.1 in VID and something different in Vcore when using hw monitor


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfromsky*
> 
> Well for me the VID at the bottom resembles the CPU-Z vcore on my 6700 (non K). And if I set a fixed voltage for vcore in bios, lets say 1.1 it will say 1.1 in VID and something different in Vcore when using hw monitor


Are you using LLC?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Curious question..... Any thoughts as to whether or not a Cryorig C1 would be able to handle the heat output of an E5-2690v4 Xeon running 100% pretty much 24/7? It would be various BOINC tasks, and would be running in the new CaseLabs BH4 if that makes any difference.


----------



## sydefekt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Curious question..... Any thoughts as to whether or not a Cryorig C1 would be able to handle the heat output of an E5-2690v4 Xeon running 100% pretty much 24/7? It would be various BOINC tasks, and would be running in the new CaseLabs BH4 if that makes any difference.


I think the C1 can handle it. It is rated for 140w TDP, and your CPU is rated at 135w TDP. Your case also has good airflow and clearance. For reference, my C1 runs the x99 5820k at 60+C stock load and can handle mild overclocks. An issue I encounter is if there is not enough space above the cooler it can recycle hot air; but your case looks like it has enough space. I'm not sure if the temps will be optimal for 24/7 use, but you can test it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Curious question..... Any thoughts as to whether or not a Cryorig C1 would be able to handle the heat output of an E5-2690v4 Xeon running 100% pretty much 24/7? It would be various BOINC tasks, and would be running in the new CaseLabs BH4 if that makes any difference.


The C1 can handle it as long as it's intake air is at or near normal room ambient (21-23c).

While the BH4 has 4x 120mm fan vents and big vent in back, It's venting does not seem very well optimized.
The front right vent and top front as so close together they are not really functional.
If front is intake and top exhaust the air is in & out with no function.
If front is intake and top intake, they are both trying to supply air to the same space .. again not functional
There is no venting over PCIe socket area (GPU exhaust).
The left side GPU intake) appears to be a window, not a vent, (possibly right side venting to balance intake and exhaust area).
PCIe back slot covers are not vented (I normally do not use then).
Using front and/or top as intake and exhaust side by side does not work.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/20_20#post_23159549

If C1 fan is mounted to draw air out of cooler and top is exhaust, front intake should supply it with cool air. If fan is pushing air down into cooler I suspect the heated exhasut would circle back up and in.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22323763
5th post is case airflow.

Some people think a cooler is okay if it keeps things cool for an hour of gaming, but not for 24/7 uses. With air cooling a system at full load it should reach peak temperature in 2-5 minutes. If it takes any longer than that the components are not receiving cool air and are re-using their heated exhaust .. in other words, if case airflow is properly setup system running at 100% load will reach maximum temperature in a few minutes and never get any hotter. All of mine work this way.







More info in 'Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it.


----------



## snk2700

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> "Seem" high.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 86-94c is smokin' hot! Kinda like Fort McMurray was a couple days ago .. as in burning hot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah Prime ancient history for load testing. I use X264 to test, but it's not as easy to use as some.
> Run stock setting .. no OC until things get seated in and we have normal temps. I'm not sure why, but my Skylake got progressively lower temps for about a month before it settled. Started with low 30s idle and now it's low to mid 20s. Load were 70s, now 60s. These changes are not cooler seating to CPU. I've ran several different coolers with same temps. I really don't have an explanation for it .. maybe it's the die to IHS TIM seating. All I know for sure is it now runs cooler.
> 
> Case airflow is critical, and many people don't pay attention to it. If case air flow is heating up before cooler uses it, the CPU will be a degree hotter for every degree warmer the air is. You might find "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig helpful. 1st post is index, click on topic is see it. Post #5 is good place to start.


Here are my results after I reverted to "Optimized default settings". I did not remove the heatsink or reapply thermal paste. So I suppose this is more inline with what I should expect from this cooler.


----------



## snk2700

Is it normal for core 0 to be that much higher?


----------



## MicroCat

Can't quite see the tiny image, but if it's only 4 degrees difference, then it's fine. Get 8-10 degrees difference between cores, then your complaint may carry more heat.


----------



## snk2700

Is it normal for core 0 to be that
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> Can't quite see the tiny image, but if it's only 4 degrees difference, then it's fine. Get 8-10 degrees difference between cores, then your complaint may carry more heat.


It's bigger if you open in new window.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snk2700*
> 
> Is it normal for core 0 to be that
> It's bigger if you open in new window.


Not out of spec for sure. Although it's interesting that the other 3 cores are identical. That's not normal.









Intel's tjmax spec has a +/- 5 degrees tolerance.

You could remount a few times and see if it makes a difference, but it's not a large enough variance to be worried about.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snk2700*
> 
> Here are my results after I reverted to "Optimized default settings". I did not remove the heatsink or reapply thermal paste. So I suppose this is more inline with what I should expect from this cooler.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


After clicking on image, and enlarging it the focus is quite bad. Not sure how you did your image, but it's not good.








Looks like load temps are in upper 40s and idle is 20s ??
Not knowing what our room temp is I would guess CPU temps are quite nice. If you have enough TIM, carefully take cooler off and look at TIM print. A pic of it would be nice. A good print looks like 'tiny dot' or 'small dot'.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22335323


----------



## Loladinas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> After clicking on image, and enlarging it the focus is quite bad. Not sure how you did your image, but it's not good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like load temps are in upper 40s and idle is 20s ??
> Not knowing what our room temp is I would guess CPU temps are quite nice. If you have enough TIM, carefully take cooler off and look at TIM print. A pic of it would be nice. A good print looks like 'tiny dot' or 'small dot'.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22335323


There, there old man, your sight is going







Load temps are 63-69C.

EDIT: typo


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loladinas*
> 
> There, there old man, your sight is going
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Load temps are 63-69C.
> 
> EDIT: typo


I guess it's a case of selective sight. I can read everything but his image. If I try to enlarge it beyond simple 'click to see original' it goes all fuzzy and soft.









I'd post what I see, but OCN has not fixed the image posting problem yet. At least half the time it fails to upload image.


----------



## Lays

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I guess it's a case of selective sight. I can read everything but his image. If I try to enlarge it beyond simple 'click to see original' it goes all fuzzy and soft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd post what I see, but OCN has not fixed the image posting problem yet. At least half the time it fails to upload image.


If you click it and click original, then zoom in it should be clear:


----------



## doyll

I was trying to read details in left window.









By comparison my 6700K in turbo mode under TRUE Spirit 140 Rev. A in 22c room (23-24c cooler intake) idles 22-28c @ 465rpm and at work is low 50s @ 8-900rpm. Full on stress testing is high 50s to low 60s @ 950-1100rpm. Airflow temp out of cooler is 2-5c warmer than into cooler. If I lower or increase fan speeds both CPU and exhaust air go down or up a few degrees .. CPU a few more than air.


----------



## lutjens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> "Seem" high.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 86-94c is smokin' hot! Kinda like Fort McMurray was a couple days ago .. as in burning hot.


I know your comment was made in jest, but the situation in Fort McMurray is no laughing matter.

I know...I live there...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lutjens*
> 
> I know your comment was made in jest, but the situation in Fort McMurray is no laughing matter.
> 
> I know...I live there...


You have my empathy. After many years in western USA I know only too well the power of wildfires. I have fought fires myself and know only too well how quickly an almost 'controlled' fire can become a deadly killer. My post in jest was for two reasons. To make others aware of the fire and catastrophic damage you and your neighbors are enduring as well as compare it to what could happen (on a much smaller scale) to an overheating CPU.

I'm in Europe now and have not been able to find much accurate information about the fire and damages. From what I have seen nobody was killed, which is a miracle!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You have my empathy. After many years in western USA I know only too well the power of wildfires. I have fought fires myself and know only too well how quickly an almost 'controlled' fire can become a deadly killer. My post in jest was for two reasons. To make others aware of the fire and catastrophic damage you and your neighbors are enduring as well as compare it to what could happen (on a much smaller scale) to an overheating CPU.
> 
> I'm in Europe now and have not been able to find much accurate information about the fire and damages. From what I have seen nobody was killed, which is a miracle!


Only two died, and that was on a highway down by Lac La Biche if I remember correctly, but the collision wasn't related to the forest fire. All 88,000 residents were evacuated safely, including the 270 or so that were in treatment at the hospital. Sadly, current estimate is at 2200 homes destroyed, and two communities in the city pretty much razed (80% totally burnt down, nothing but foundations remain) and the other 20% of said communities in various states of minor to moderate damage.

It was not fun watching several of the managers' faces yesterday when Global News went through there doing a live video feed, since several of the managers of the company I work for either have family there or lived there for quite some time.

Worst part is that for those who's homes appear to be undamaged is that the current estimates are showing from a minimum of two weeks to upwards of two months before they will be back in their homes.


----------



## snk2700

I decided to take off the heat sink and take a look at the paste spread and it looked pretty bad. I reapplied it using the pea method and retested. Looks like there was only a slight improvement. Prime 95 26.6 in the before and after.


I will try some overclocking tomorrow.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Only two died, and that was on a highway down by Lac La Biche if I remember correctly, but the collision wasn't related to the forest fire. All 88,000 residents were evacuated safely, including the 270 or so that were in treatment at the hospital. Sadly, current estimate is at 2200 homes destroyed, and two communities in the city pretty much razed (80% totally burnt down, nothing but foundations remain) and the other 20% of said communities in various states of minor to moderate damage.
> 
> It was not fun watching several of the managers' faces yesterday when Global News went through there doing a live video feed, since several of the managers of the company I work for either have family there or lived there for quite some time.
> 
> Worst part is that for those who's homes appear to be undamaged is that the current estimates are showing from a minimum of two weeks to upwards of two months before they will be back in their homes.


Please feel free to PM me if there is anything I can do to help, or if anything major changes.
I'm sure the worst hit areas lost all services as well, and of course they have to be rebuilt before people can go back into their homes. If at all possible in these homes that were saved the owners need to get in and clean out the fridges and freezers. I'm sure the food in them is already rotting and these fridges and freezes may not even be savable now, but will definitely not be in another week or so .. and I'm not even considering what the leakage from them as things rot will do to surroundings.







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snk2700*
> 
> I decided to take off the heat sink and take a look at the paste spread and it looked pretty bad. I reapplied it using the pea method and retested. Looks like there was only a slight improvement. Prime 95 26.6 in the before and after.
> 
> 
> I will try some overclocking tomorrow.


Can't access your link to see what your print looked like


----------



## lutjens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Please feel free to PM me if there is anything I can do to help, or if anything major changes.
> I'm sure the worst hit areas lost all services as well, and of course they have to be rebuilt before people can go back into their homes. If at all possible in these homes that were saved the owners need to get in and clean out the fridges and freezers. I'm sure the food in them is already rotting and these fridges and freezes may not even be savable now, but will definitely not be in another week or so .. and I'm not even considering what the leakage from them as things rot will do to surroundings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


The really annoying thing is that the residents of areas of town that are unaffected either largely or entirely, are still being kept from their homes. The longer they keep people from their homes, the harder this recovery will be as workers in the service industry re-establish themselves elsewhere (as they are currently not working). They need to open unaffected areas as quickly as possible. Many of these areas haven't even lost power at all.


----------



## infinite0180

Anybody know if the H7 will be able to handle a phenom ii x3 oc'd to about 3.4ghz with a 2.4ghz cpu-nb? My case has a couple corsair af120s in it...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## K1mer0

Guys i recently bought H5 universal. Is there a away to control the speed fan? I know i can control in bios, or using the motherboard program ( in my case asrock extreme tunning), but i think i can´t create something like, when cpu temp is for example ate 50ºC trigger the fan to maximum speed).

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K1mer0*
> 
> Guys i recently bought H5 universal. Is there a away to control the speed fan? I know i can control in bios, or using the motherboard program ( in my case asrock extreme tunning), but i think i can´t create something like, when cpu temp is for example ate 50ºC trigger the fan to maximum speed).
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Asus may have fan control software, or depending on your MoBo you could likely use SpeedFan.

Most of the Gigabyte owners are using SpeedFan because the Gigabyte fan control software leaves much to be desired.

I use speedfan, started from a windows startup task so fan control is enabled at boot time, even if I don't login to a user account.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infinite0180*
> 
> Anybody know if the H7 will be able to handle a phenom ii x3 oc'd to about 3.4ghz with a 2.4ghz cpu-nb? My case has a couple corsair af120s in it...
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


H7 will easily cool an X3


----------



## snk2700

Here is my setup:


----------



## Nightz2k

So while on a low budget, I got the Cryorig H7 because I needed something to take place of the now dead Swiftech H220. _(No more warranty)_ I guess I got a good 3 years use out of it.









Anyways, long story short, had an old Freezer 7 Pro Rev2.0, so I installed it for a backup, but it wasn't keeping up very well and I had to underclock my FX-8350 at the time.

For the price, this H7 is surprisingly cooling better than I expected. I did add 2 of the Swiftech Helix fans on it for push/pull, figured why not. _(Since I wanted to make use of them)_ They're doing really well for it and improved over the single H7 fan. _*But*, don't get me wrong, the single fan itself does ok too!_

Temps were far better than the Artic cooler, as expected. _(Pretty big size difference as you can see in the pics)_ I'm at 4.2GHz now at 48C max when gaming. I know I can push it much further, but for now it's good.

Pics in the spoiler.










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## The Pook

Gone mine mounted funky and in pull only and it still cools me <80C load during hwbot runs at 1.430v and <70C 24/7 at 1.344v


----------



## AyyMD

Today I learned how much of a POS the H7 is on AMD CPUs. You can't overclock the 125w CPUs to save your life on it, and the temps are okay at best. Should've manned up and went with the 212 EVO/Frio Silent 14.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*
> 
> Today I learned how much of a POS the H7 is on AMD CPUs. You can't overclock the 125w CPUs to save your life on it, and the temps are okay at best. Should've manned up and went with the 212 EVO/Frio Silent 14.


To state a simple fact, thinking a 212 will do you better than H7 only shows how little you know. Many reviews show H7 cooling better than 212 does.

Lots of mouth condemning H7 and complaiing, but not a single bit of information about what your system is and how its set up. This all sets off the is an instant flashing red light and evacuation alarms telling use to get as far away for source as possible.









Is the cooler seated properly?
What it the air temp going into cooler?


----------



## dainfamous

Doesn't the fan that comes packaged with the H7 sleeve bearing so it is not advisable to mount them horizontally?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> Doesn't the fan that comes packaged with the H7 sleeve bearing so it is not advisable to mount them horizontally?


There is a lot of hype about what are good and what are not good bearings. The truth is almost all bearing in fans are either ball bearing or some type of sleeve bearing. They put groves in the sleeve, lines in the shaft, call the fluid bearings, etc. but the are really just sleeve bearing. The quality is way more important than what kind of fancy name the advertise with. Here is some more info about fan bearings.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/40_20#post_23724082


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> To state a simple fact, thinking a 212 will do you better than H7 only shows how little you know. Many reviews show H7 cooling better than 212 does.
> 
> Lots of mouth condemning H7 and complaiing, but not a single bit of information about what your system is and how its set up. This all sets off the is an instant flashing red light and evacuation alarms telling use to get as far away for source as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the cooler seated properly?
> What it the air temp going into cooler?


If I knew how to create the signature I would've, sorry.

*My build:*

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

*CPU:* AMD FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor ($167.99)
*CPU Cooler:* CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.50)
*Motherboard:* Asus M5A97 R2.0 ATX AM3+ Motherboard ($82.99)
*Memory:* Kingston HyperX FURY 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($89.99)
*Storage:* Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.58)
*Storage:* Seagate Momentus XT 500GB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($130.50)
*Storage:* Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($50.44)
*Video Card:* Sapphire Radeon R9 280X 3GB Tri-X Video Card ($220.00)
*Case:* Cooler Master HAF X ATX Full Tower Case ($189.99)
*Power Supply:* Corsair Professional 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($120.00)
*Optical Drive:* Sony BWU-500S Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
*Operating System:* Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) ($130.59)
*Software:* Sony Vegas Pro 13 Suite ($799.95)
*Wireless Network Adapter:* Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($32.99)
*Case Fan:* Cougar Vortex 70.5 CFM 140mm Fan ($19.99)
*Keyboard:* Corsair K70 Wired Gaming Keyboard ($130.00)
*Mouse:* Logitech G303 Daedalus Apex Wired Optical Mouse ($49.99)
*Headphones:* Skullcandy S2IKFY-074 In Ear Headphones With Microphone
*Headphones:* Skullcandy S6AVFM-158 Headset
*Other:* Samsung TV ($430.00)
*Other:* Samsung TV ($430.00)
*Other:* Steelseries Qck ($9.99)
*Other:* Adobe Photoshop CS6 Extended ($999.99)
*Other:* BLUE Snowball (black) ($99.99)
*Total:* $4289.46
_Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available_
_Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-23 15:24 EDT-0400_

It is installed correctly, I've installed it four times already, so I've kind of mastered that. The temps are just room temp, so there's that.


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> Doesn't the fan that comes packaged with the H7 sleeve bearing so it is not advisable to mount them horizontally?


I asked them a while ago, and they said it was a custom lubricated bearing.


----------



## doyll

@AyyMD

Now we are getting somewhere!








May I suggest you open the 'Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig and read 5th post. That will give an idea of how I think about airflow and cooling. There are many other good articles there. 1st post is index, click on topics to see them. I'm kinda busy right now and will be for awhile. I'll go over your list and see what we can figure out to get you cooled down.


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @AyyMD
> 
> Now we are getting somewhere!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May I suggest you open the 'Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig and read 5th post. That will give an idea of how I think about airflow and cooling. There are many other good articles there. 1st post is index, click on topics to see them. I'm kinda busy right now and will be for awhile. I'll go over your list and see what we can figure out to get you cooled down.


Yes, please help me.

Another reason for my bleh temps is the ****ty ass thermal paste I'm being forced to use (since I ran out of stock). I'm also running all of the fans but the side, and here's my airflow setup.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*
> 
> Today I learned how much of a POS the H7 is on AMD CPUs. You can't overclock the 125w CPUs to save your life on it, and the temps are okay at best. Should've manned up and went with the 212 EVO/Frio Silent 14.


Well....color me confused. To get better overclocks you should use a cooler with lower performance?

Did you mean that you should have manned up and gone to an H5, TC12DX, NH-U12S, True Spirit 140, etc?









I had a HAF-X for a while. Lots of big fans, very little airflow but with the stock fans. I honestly didn't try to solve the problem, I changed cases before I had a chance.


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Well....color me confused. To get better overclocks you should use a cooler with lower performance?
> 
> Did you mean that you should have manned up and gone to an H5, TC12DX, NH-U12S, True Spirit 140, etc?


Sorry, to clarify. I meant the temperatures are fine, but the max TDP on the cooler is limiting me, so I should have went with something with a higher TDP, like the 212 EVO.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*
> 
> Sorry, to clarify. I meant the temperatures are fine, but the max TDP on the cooler is limiting me, so I should have went with something with a higher TDP, like the 212 EVO.


Wait.....what? That makes absolutely no sense. No sense at all.

You do realize that there is no standardization to claimed TDP, right? I could put 500 watt TDP on a packet of ketchup, sell it as a CPU cooler and no one could stop me. Would that make it better than an H7? The fact is, every independent test of the two showed the H7 as able to dissipate more heat. If you are looking to OC an AMD more, you need to bump up into at least the midrange. Budget coolers aren't going to do it.


----------



## miklkit

The H7 only has three heat pipes and a single 120mm fan. Also I have no idea what its AMD mounting system is like. All in all it is not suited to FX at all and is hardly better than the stock cooler.

Trade it in on a Noctua D14/D15 and get to work on case air flow.


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> The H7 only has three heat pipes and a single 120mm fan. Also I have no idea what its AMD mounting system is like. All in all it is not suited to FX at all and is hardly better than the stock cooler.
> 
> Trade it in on a Noctua D14/D15 and get to work on case air flow.


My airflow wouldn't need work, and I'm not buying Noctua. I got a big ass window on my case, and I'm gonna be seeing it every time I turn my head. I've narrowed it down to the coolers below, but I'm still taking recommendations.


Phanteks PH-TC14PE
Silverstone HE01
be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 (if it goes down in price)
Maybe the TRUE Spirit 140 POWER


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Well....color me confused. To get better overclocks you should use a cooler with lower performance?
> 
> Did you mean that you should have manned up and gone to an H5, TC12DX, NH-U12S, True Spirit 140, etc?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a HAF-X for a while. Lots of big fans, very little airflow but with the stock fans. I honestly didn't try to solve the problem, I changed cases before I had a chance.


Wait, are you saying I should replace the stock fans on my HAF X?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

*Case Fan:* BitFenix Spectre LED 97.8 CFM 230mm Fan ($18.46 @ Amazon)
*Case Fan:* BitFenix Spectre Pro LED 148.7 CFM 200mm Fan ($16.99 @ NCIX US)
*Case Fan:* BitFenix Spectre Pro LED 148.7 CFM 200mm Fan ($16.99 @ NCIX US)
*Case Fan:* BitFenix BFF-SPRO-20025KK-RP 148.7 CFM 200mm Fan ($17.99 @ Newegg)
*Total:* $70.43
_Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available_
_Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-23 16:33 EDT-0400_


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

The HAF X is not a good case when it comes to airflow. I used to own the case and glad I got rid of it.
The front 200mm fan leaves no intake due to blocked HDD cage. Side fan is OK, just enough for the GPU and that is it.

Replacing the fans wont do much better and as the HAF X is already limited only good choice is to replace case with one that will do a much better job.
If you going to spend $70 on fans, buy a new case.
Fractal Define S
NZXT S340 (needs 2x 140mm fans in front)
Phanteks P400 and M Pro Acrylic
These cases will provide much needed airflow inside with much better circulation.


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The HAF X is not a good case when it comes to airflow. I used to own the case and glad I got rid of it.
> The front 200mm fan leaves no intake due to blocked HDD cage. Side fan is OK, just enough for the GPU and that is it.
> 
> Replacing the fans wont do much better and as the HAF X is already limited only good choice is to replace case with one that will do a much better job.
> If you going to spend $70 on fans, buy a new case.
> Fractal Define S
> NZXT S340 (needs 2x 140mm fans in front)
> Phanteks P400 and M Pro Acrylic
> These cases will provide much needed airflow inside with much better circulation.


Wait, you're telling me that the silenced Define S and the solid looking S340 have better airflow than my $170 case? Are you going to tell me that the GTX 480 isn't hot, and that the sky is neon green?

****.

I was thinking about the HAF XB EVO, how about that?

EDIT: I'm also not running any 3.5" HDDs (1TB drive died after 6 years), so I can just take those out too. So that leaves me with the decision to keep them or replace them.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Yes they will have better. I have not seen a HAF X sold in over 2 years now. They just sit at warehouse collecting dust. Price wise it is a joke compared to others, even the Corsair 750D is better for the same price.
I use the S340 in my case below. You can see clear and direct airflow.
I am replacing it with the P400S (getting that case for $30, special deal







)

HAF XB EVO is another good choice. Replace the front 2x120mm for 2x140mm add rear 120mm from the front and place the H7 with front->back cooling.


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Yes they will have better. I have not seen a HAF X sold in over 2 years now. They just sit at warehouse collecting dust. Price wise it is a joke compared to others, even the Corsair 750D is better for the same price.
> I use the S340 in my case below. You can see clear and direct airflow. I am replacing it with the P400S (getting that case for $30, special deal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> HAF XB EVO is another good choice. Replace the front 2x120mm for 2x140mm add rear 120mm from the front and place the H7 with front->back cooling.


Updated my comment a bit more.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*
> 
> My airflow wouldn't need work, and I'm not buying Noctua. I got a big ass window on my case, and I'm gonna be seeing it every time I turn my head. I've narrowed it down to the coolers below, but I'm still taking recommendations.
> 
> 
> Phanteks PH-TC14PE
> Silverstone HE01
> be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 (if it goes down in price)
> Maybe the TRUE Spirit 140 POWER


Fair enough.

You have a motherboard that is overall pretty good except that its VRMs overheat too easily. That will limit your OC. For that reason I only recommend coolers with adjustable fans so that one fan can be placed low so it is blowing cool air on the VRMs, thus allowing higher clocks.

As for your list:

Phanteks PH-TC14PE: This is a nice cooler that I installed TY-143 fans on for a red on red look plus better cooling. It has a poorly engineered AMD mounting system that does not put much pressure on the CPU. Basically the TIM is glueing it in place. This results in less heat transfer and higher temperatures. The difference isn't large but is quite noticeable. It does have adjustable fans so the VRMs will stay cooler.

I'm still trying to find the problem with that mount. It seems to work ok when off the board but when installed it will not tighten down.

Silverstone HE01: Form follows function and it is quite functional. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. It has the best mounting system and is a solid performer. It comes with one fan but clips for 2 more. Since another fan costs $17 I added another one to mine. This helps in extreme stress tests as the fans only really provide superior cooling at peak rpm (2000+). The trick is to find the best compromise between hitting peak rpm early and getting them to idle down until they are silent. i can't seem to get mine below 1100 rpm. But they do have a low pitched sound to them which is pleasant compared to the high pitched whine of the other fans. It has adjustable fans so the VRMs will stay cooler too.

Be Quiet! DRP3: I know very little about this cooler except for what is mentioned around this forum. It seems to be very quiet and is probably about equal to the Phanteks in cooling. But its fans do not appear to be adjustable meaning the VRMs will run hotter.

True Spirit 140 power: It seems to be a very good single tower cooler. Maybe it can keep up with an FX and maybe it can't.


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Fair enough.
> 
> You have a motherboard that is overall pretty good except that its VRMs overheat too easily. That will limit your OC. For that reason I only recommend coolers with adjustable fans so that one fan can be placed low so it is blowing cool air on the VRMs, thus allowing higher clocks.
> 
> As for your list:
> 
> Phanteks PH-TC14PE: This is a nice cooler that I installed TY-143 fans on for a red on red look plus better cooling. It has a poorly engineered AMD mounting system that does not put much pressure on the CPU. Basically the TIM is glueing it in place. This results in less heat transfer and higher temperatures. The difference isn't large but is quite noticeable. It does have adjustable fans so the VRMs will stay cooler.
> 
> I'm still trying to find the problem with that mount. It seems to work ok when off the board but when installed it will not tighten down.
> 
> Silverstone HE01: Form follows function and it is quite functional. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. It has the best mounting system and is a solid performer. It comes with one fan but clips for 2 more. Since another fan costs $17 I added another one to mine. This helps in extreme stress tests as the fans only really provide superior cooling at peak rpm (2000+). The trick is to find the best compromise between hitting peak rpm early and getting them to idle down until they are silent. i can't seem to get mine below 1100 rpm. But they do have a low pitched sound to them which is pleasant compared to the high pitched whine of the other fans. It has adjustable fans so the VRMs will stay cooler too.
> 
> Be Quiet! DRP3: I know very little about this cooler except for what is mentioned around this forum. It seems to be very quiet and is probably about equal to the Phanteks in cooling. But its fans do not appear to be adjustable meaning the VRMs will run hotter.
> 
> True Spirit 140 power: It seems to be a very good single tower cooler. Maybe it can keep up with an FX and maybe it can't.


Could the AMD mounting system be better if I used my CRYORIG backplate instead? I also have a fan on the M5A97 R2.0 heatsink, so that should help with the VRMs. I came from a ****tier motherboard than the ASUS (AssCock 970 Performance), so I know really bad cooling.


----------



## Nightz2k

The H7 does and will cool AMD FX _(excluding 9370/9590)_ CPU's just fine if you're not pushing for high overclocks, that's what the more expensive coolers are for, hence the H7 being one of the best for budget coolers IMO.

I'm at a mild OC, 4.2GHz and 1.32V according to HWMonitor and haven't passed 50C while gaming. For the price, you get what you pay for, like most things. There's plenty of proof out there on how well these coolers are. I did my research on budget coolers and the H7 was the better choice and most are recommending it over the Hyper 212 EVO these days.

Like said, it's also dependent on your case, airflow, fans, heatsink mounting, etc. _(In AMD's case, the VRM's are a factor as well)_


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*
> 
> Wait, you're telling me that the silenced Define S and the solid looking S340 have better airflow than my $170 case? Are you going to tell me that the GTX 480 isn't hot, and that the sky is neon green?
> 
> ****.
> 
> I was thinking about the HAF XB EVO, how about that?
> 
> EDIT: I'm also not running any 3.5" HDDs (1TB drive died after 6 years), so I can just take those out too. So that leaves me with the decision to keep them or replace them.


They absolutely have better airflow than a HAF-X. The HAF-X is an old design, and one that leaned more to a specific look than performance. That was the CM way for a long time - interesting looking products that weren't particularly good. In this day and age there are cases out there for half the price that are far better performers, and have far better designs in terms of airflow and build. Case performance and quality are not dependent on price, not even close.


----------



## miklkit

One thing I have not tried is using the back plate, nuts, and bolts from another cooler on it. Too lazy plus I'm out of TIM. The Phanteks uses the stock AMD back plate. If the Phanteks spacers and brackets are used it should be ok. Getting the spacers just right is critical. I don't think one could overtighten it to the point it would damage the cpu or board, but it would suck to find out the hard way. Removing the I/O panel on the case also helps VRM air flow.

Since AyyMD is already complaining about cooling it would seem a step up in cooling power is needed. Besides this is OCN. If a little bit is better a whole lot more is a whole lot better.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You do realize that there is no standardization to claimed TDP, right? I could put 500 watt TDP on a packet of ketchup, sell it as a CPU cooler.


I can't accept this without knowing something of your testing methods, your testing kit. Let me tell you what you have given us ... nothing, nout, nada, zip ... you have given us zilch. This sets off all sorts of crazy with me ... I'm going to have to get as far away from the sauce as possible.


----------



## doyll

@AyyMD
Your posts show you have not read, or at least did not understand the information in what I suggersted you read.

Your case is not even a mediocre airflow case. For $160 there are many much better designed, better built, more functional and way better airflow.
There are many below $100; Define 4 & 5, Arc Midi, Enthoo Pro, etc. I'm not fond of Corsail cases. They are not well designed, airflow, cable management, included accessories & fans, quality is not near as good as Fractal Design, Phanteks, etc.

ciarlatano
500w TDP catsup? Whcih brand?

@miklkit
Yes, H7 is 3x pipes, but it cools better then most 4x pipe coolers.

Just a thought, have you tried using a shim spacer between crossbar and top of cooler? Something like a small washer should do. This normally increases mount pressure.

@AyyMD,
Pay attention to what these guys are telling you. While we don't always agree on all things, we do all have much more experience and knowledge about these things .. and our combined knowledge has helped many.

For maximum cooling when overclocking, coolers like HE01, Silver Arrow IB-E & SB-E Extreme are arguably the best out of the box, but only because they come with 130+ cfm high speed fans that get progressively louder the faster they are ran. Their beauty is being no louder than other top coolers below 1300rpm. But *case airflow must be increased to match coolers' extreme airflow for their improved cooling to work*.

TRUE Spirit 140 rev.A and TRUE Spirit 140 Power are a couple of my favorite coolers, but any Macho using 140mm fan, Archon, NH-U14S, H5, with R1 Ultimate, Silver Arrow, PH-TC14PE, new Alpenfohn Olymp, NH-D14 & D15, Dark Rock Pro 3, being close to HE01 & Sivler Arrow IB-E/SB-E Extreme.

Now, unless you realize your case is not much good by listening to what we say, reading and learning (like what I suggestd) there is nothing we can do to help. We have offered you lots of good information. We cannot make you learn and understand it. You have to do that yourself.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I cat can'tsup accept this without knowing something of your testing methods, your testing kit. Let me tell you what you have given us ... nothing, nout, nada, zip ... you have given us zilch. This sets off all sorts of crazy with me ... I'm going to have to get as far away from the sauce as possible.


Shouldn't that be:
I can't cat accept sup this without knowing ...


----------



## KGPrime

Depending on where you live and your ambient temps, a case would have to be pretty damn terrible to affect it that much.
I been using the same NZXT Trinity case for 10 years through 3 system build with the same fans in it still to this day. One 120MM in front, and one in the back and one small like 80mm ? fan on the lower door at low speed to bring in air to the video card. I have overclocked 2 of those systems a light bump 400Mhz and two of those systems ran with a Zalman 9500 single 92MM fan CPU cooler. All i can say is those cpus drew like double the watts than the i5 i am running today and none of them ever rose about 60 ish c in real world gaming nor UT mapping 3d max rendering ect ever.

More than anything, more than fancy case, more than fancy 100 dollar dual 120mm fan cpu cooler. Ambient room temps are what i consider most important. Can't cool it better than Ambient.

In the winter in the Pacific North West my room is 65 F max, in the summer if it get's much above 75f i throw on the AC. I started overclocking my cpus 17 years ago in old shtty steel boxes with like one fan hole in them, , so i'm not coming at this from newb land. If you are on extreme 24/7 OC in a hot climate then yes you may need a better solution, but i never have. Single decent 92mm Cpu HS and fan does just fine. Up till now that might only have been the Zalmans though.

Also my front 120mm is blocked by my HDD cage so it also cools my HDD so it;s even probably "less efficient" than todays "standards". Also being it is and old case the cable management isn't the greatest. Yet still airflow is not a problem. My side door fan is tiny, low speed and only really draws in air that gets sucked in by my video card. After 10 years with perfectly fine results it's obviously not an issue. So again. A case would have to be extremely terrible or you put your fans in backwards to matter _That_ much.









Cases today compared to mine have dual 120MM fans in front two in top one in back. It's fine, but for most purpose total Overkill. Just marketing. "More is better" mentality. Though not always the case at all. All you really need is one main intake one exhaust in most common scenarios. Reminds me of the OCZ refrigerator sized full tower custom case i had in like 2002-03 with like 3 140mm fans in the door, and 5 or more 120mm fans, it had like 9 fans in all. It was ******ed. It was a joke we laughed about.

Anyway. In the next few months i was going to build a new system. I was considering the Cryorig M9i mini 92mm on Skylake i7 6700k and figured i'd do the standard easy 400Mhz or so OC on it, though i might dabble for fun towards the 5Ghz mark and see what it can do. I could probably still put my old Zalman on it, but there is like 8 years on that fan running 24/7 at full speed so







The m9i caught my eye, looks to be one of the better designed 92mm coolers out there and looks really nice as well. A bit easier to get around and clean than the prickly Zalman and it only costs 20 bucks? Sold. *I was wondering if any one knows it's possible to get like a second 92mm fan from Cryorig for the M9i if i needed to juice it up a little for push pull?* If i wanted to play around getting closer to 4.8-5Ghz out of the 6700k "for fun", not 24/7 or possibly for certain scenarios i might be testing. I looked on their site but that specific fan seems to be exclusive to that model and not sold separately. I saw a review said it comes with an extra fan bracket so i figured their must be a way to get them separate.

In fact here's the case right here. Best 89 bucks spent. Perform flawlessly for a decade


----------



## MicroCat

If you can get a 'fun' 4.8-5ghz overclock on your 6700k with that little M9i and keep it under spec'd tCase at full IBT load, then we'll all be scouring eBay for 10 year NZXT cases.









I know where you can get a 2nd fan for the m9i right now, cost you $19.99 (but comes with a spare heatsink)









Or could go with the similar performing TR 92mm here for half as much.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGPrime*
> 
> Depending on where you live and your ambient temps, a case would have to be pretty damn terrible to affect it that much.
> I been using the same NZXT Trinity case for 10 years through 3 system build with the same fans in it still to this day. One 120MM in front, and one in the back and one small like 80mm ? fan on the lower door at low speed to bring in air to the video card. I have overclocked 2 of those systems a light bump 400Mhz and two of those systems ran with a Zalman 9500 single 92MM fan CPU cooler. All i can say is those cpus drew like double the watts than the i5 i am running today and none of them ever rose about 60 ish c in real world gaming nor UT mapping 3d max rendering ect ever.
> 
> More than anything, more than fancy case, more than fancy 100 dollar dual 120mm fan cpu cooler. Ambient room temps are what i consider most important. Can't cool it better than Ambient.


I made it this far and couldn't make myself continue reading your rant.








Indeed, room ambinet is as cool as the air gets.
BUT, and this is the critical reason case and case ariflow is so important.

*The temperature of your room is not the same as the air temperature getting to your components.*

Component intake air temperature are rarely only 2-5c above room ambient
Component intake air temperatures in most well ventilated cases are 9-11c above room ambient
Component intake air temperatures in many, many cases are often 15-20c above room ambient.

*And that does make a big difference.*

By optimizing case airflow that is at least 4-6c lower component temps, and can be a whopping 15-18c lower.

These things are not fantasy or your simple opinion of what facts are. These are things many users have documented. If I remember correctly ciarlatano found when testing and reviewing coolers that his component intakes (cpu coolers & radiators) were all about 10c warmer than room ambient in a Enthoo Luxe with 2x 140mm front intakes, with 1x rear 140 and one top 200mm exhausts.

Most likely the reason your system is working well is because your component airflow demand is low compared to most of us. a 92mm CPU cooler fan uses only a fraction of the airflow a 140mm CPU cooler fan uses. I didn't read further, so don't know what your GPU cooler uses, but many of us have 3x 90mm fans on GPU.

Oh! And for your information, there are much better flowing cases available than yours. Cases that almost the entire back panel is vent, have 2x 140mm (some 3x ) front intake fan mounts, bottom intake vents .. and of course top vents which are usually useless or detrimental to optimum cooling.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> These things are not fantasy or your simple opinion of what facts are. These are things many users have documented. If I remember correctly ciarlatano found when testing and reviewing coolers that his component intakes (cpu coolers & radiators) were all about 10c warmer than room ambient in a Enthoo Luxe with 2x 140mm front intakes, with 1x rear 140 and one top 200mm exhausts.
> 
> Most likely the reason your system is working well is because your component airflow demand is low compared to most of us. a 92mm CPU cooler fan uses only a fraction of the airflow a 140mm CPU cooler fan uses. I didn't read further, so don't know what your GPU cooler uses, but many of us have 3x 90mm fans on GPU.
> 
> Oh! And for your information, there are much better flowing cases available than yours. Cases that almost the entire back panel is vent, have 2x 140mm (some 3x ) front intake fan mounts, bottom intake vents .. and of course top vents which are usually useless or detrimental to optimum cooling.


That was actually with the 200mm intake, 140mm rear exhaust and no top exhaust (with air coolers, CLCs were run as top exhaust). The change to dual F140SP intake, 140mm top exhaust and 140mm rear exhaust dropped it ~3 degrees.

I have seen some crazy posts in my life, but a rant about case airflow being inconsequential is definitely up their with the furthest off base....


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That was actually with the 200mm intake, 140mm rear exhaust and no top exhaust (with air coolers, CLCs were run as top exhaust). The change to dual F140SP intake, 140mm top exhaust and 140mm rear exhaust dropped it ~3 degrees.
> 
> I have seen some crazy posts in my life, but a rant about case airflow being inconsequential is definitely up their with the furthest off base....


Oh! My bad! so cooler intake was ended up 7c hotter than room.

Now it makes sense that the air cooler intake was 1c warmer than CLC/AIO cooler. The added radiator / exhaust fans were moving more air through the case. ??


----------



## d0mini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> I have the Cryorig H5 in my 380t case on a VII Impact motherboard with 2 Corsair SP120s in push/pull. It's a tight squeeze, but it manages to fit, and cools my 4790k better than my H75 used to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting acceptable temps (never exceeds 85*C with x264 or in games) @4.6GHz, 1.23v.
> 
> 
> 
> Just curious, why did you choose SP120 fans?
Click to expand...

Oh boy, never saw this post until now







My bad, guess it's never too late..! *Proceeds to reply to a post made in 10/12/15*

I chose them because I wanted quiet fans, knew the corsair brand, and they were available on Amazon for a decent price. Gentle typhoons weren't so available, didn't like the look of Noctua fans, and I didn't know about any other better alternatives. That being said, these fans have done very well for me, they are very quiet!

Ah, yes, and it's an H7, not an H5. My bad again. Really nailed it with this thread.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Oh! My bad! so cooler intake was ended up 7c hotter than room.
> 
> Now it makes sense that the air cooler intake was 1c warmer than CLC/AIO cooler. The added radiator / exhaust fans were moving more air through the case. ??


Of course. They were CLCs. The fans were running at 2000+ rpm during testing.


----------



## doyll

*Cryorig is making cases!
*
Quote:


> 24.05.16 Taipei, Taiwan - For Computex 2016, CRYORIG is revealing their first foray into PC cases with two innovated and uncommon projects. The CYORIG OLA is a Mac Pro inspired cylindrical home theater lifestyle ITX PC case with focus on performance and cooling. The CRYORIG TAKU is a monitor stand PC case that focuses on maximizing desk space while slides open for easy access to hardware. Both the OLA and TAKU projects are still in early development. CRYORIG is planning on a "Ask Anything" live stream event on June 1st during Computex for user feedback on both projects.
> 
> With the OLA, CRYORIG is attempting to create a PC experience case that not only looks sleek enough for it to be a center piece of the living room but also capable of housing powerful full length GPU's. Inspired by the Mac Pro, the OLA is cylindrical with a purpose. With a Cylindrical shape the OLA achieves increased internal air volume, and zero airflow dead space. Individual compartments for the CPU, PSU and GPU prevents heat overflowing to other areas. Dual shark-gill like side air intake ducts run the length of the case to insure cool air intake for both the CPU/mainboard area and the GPU. The large 140 mm XT140 exhaust fan at the top pulls out all excess heat from both compartments. The OLA supports full length GPU cards as well as 100 watt TDP Core i7 CPU's, perfect for the high computation needs of VR. On the aesthetics end, the OLA features a modular front and back panel for multiple textured options. Functioning units will be shown at Computex as well as static units with Brushed Aluminum and the Wood Veneer alternate panel texture options. The OLA is still work in progress with the release targeting Q2 of 2017. Full specifications are to be announced once designs are finalized.


 


 


*Computex product page link*
http://www.cryorig.com/computex2016.php


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mini*
> 
> Oh boy, never saw this post until now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My bad, guess it's never too late..! *Proceeds to reply to a post made in 10/12/15*
> 
> I chose them because I wanted quiet fans, knew the corsair brand, and they were available on Amazon for a decent price. Gentle typhoons weren't so available, didn't like the look of Noctua fans, and I didn't know about any other better alternatives. That being said, these fans have done very well for me, they are very quiet!
> 
> Ah, yes, and it's an H7, not an H5. My bad again. Really nailed it with this thread.


No problem at all. I forgot all about months ago.








Corsail brand is way over-hyped, which is main reason I asked. SP120 isn't bad, but there are others for less money that are better


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No problem at all. I forgot all about months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Corsail brand is way over-hyped, which is main reason I asked. SP120 isn't bad, but there are others for less money that are better


You mean like the fan that was on the H7 to begin with?


----------



## ADM989

Hi guys, been watching this thread for quite a while, big fan of cryorigs heatsink designs

So I recently got a r1 universal for a good price and assumed there shouldnt be a problem with it being compatible with my motherboard (asus gene vi). It was only when I had put the motherboard back in when I saw there might be an issue with it covering the pci slot slightly.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Now I dont have a GPU yet to test whether it would fit with no problems, so I would like a second opinion


----------



## d0mini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No problem at all. I forgot all about months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Corsail brand is way over-hyped, which is main reason I asked. SP120 isn't bad, but there are others for less money that are better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You mean like the fan that was on the H7 to begin with?
Click to expand...

Actually that fan had a buzzing noise at low rpms that I wasn't too happy with. Might have just been my fan.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADM989*
> 
> Hi guys, been watching this thread for quite a while, big fan of cryorigs heatsink designs
> 
> So I recently got a r1 universal for a good price and assumed there shouldnt be a problem with it being compatible with my motherboard (asus gene vi). It was only when I had put the motherboard back in when I saw there might be an issue with it covering the pci slot slightly.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I dont have a GPU yet to test whether it would fit with no problems, so I would like a second opinion


Looks to me like it will fit with maybe needing to tape / insulate the fan clip .. or just put GPU in lower PCIe socket.


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @AyyMD
> Your posts show you have not read, or at least did not understand the information in what I suggersted you read.
> 
> Your case is not even a mediocre airflow case. For $160 there are many much better designed, better built, more functional and way better airflow.
> There are many below $100; Define 4 & 5, Arc Midi, Enthoo Pro, etc. I'm not fond of Corsail cases. They are not well designed, airflow, cable management, included accessories & fans, quality is not near as good as Fractal Design, Phanteks, etc.
> 
> ciarlatano
> 500w TDP catsup? Whcih brand?
> 
> @miklkit
> Yes, H7 is 3x pipes, but it cools better then most 4x pipe coolers.
> 
> Just a thought, have you tried using a shim spacer between crossbar and top of cooler? Something like a small washer should do. This normally increases mount pressure.
> 
> @AyyMD,
> Pay attention to what these guys are telling you. While we don't always agree on all things, we do all have much more experience and knowledge about these things .. and our combined knowledge has helped many.
> 
> For maximum cooling when overclocking, coolers like HE01, Silver Arrow IB-E & SB-E Extreme are arguably the best out of the box, but only because they come with 130+ cfm high speed fans that get progressively louder the faster they are ran. Their beauty is being no louder than other top coolers below 1300rpm. But *case airflow must be increased to match coolers' extreme airflow for their improved cooling to work*.
> 
> TRUE Spirit 140 rev.A and TRUE Spirit 140 Power are a couple of my favorite coolers, but any Macho using 140mm fan, Archon, NH-U14S, H5, with R1 Ultimate, Silver Arrow, PH-TC14PE, new Alpenfohn Olymp, NH-D14 & D15, Dark Rock Pro 3, being close to HE01 & Sivler Arrow IB-E/SB-E Extreme.
> 
> Now, unless you realize your case is not much good by listening to what we say, reading and learning (like what I suggestd) there is nothing we can do to help. We have offered you lots of good information. We cannot make you learn and understand it. You have to do that yourself.


So I've narrowed down my choices for new cases.


NZXT H440
Cooler Master MasterCase Pro 5 (or the Maker)
Cooler Master HAF XB EVO
Phanteks Enthoo Pro (or the Pro M)
Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX
Fractal Design Define R5 (not my most favorite, but if it's great enough, I'll man up and use it)


----------



## miklkit

This is OT for this thread but.........

Yes, H7 is 3x pipes, but it cools better then most 4x pipe coolers.

Just a thought, have you tried using a shim spacer between crossbar and top of cooler? Something like a small washer should do. This normally increases mount pressure.

This is what drove me nuts. Using the white AMD spacers the support tightens up on the board fine but the cooler is loose on the cpu. With the slightly shorter black intel spacers the support flops around loose and will not tighten down properly. And yet the bolts WILL run down tight when off the board. Never did find what they are bottoming out on. I really need to try again.

A washer there will not work. The top of the cooler base has a fin on it like a cooling fin and the crossbar has a slot in it that this fin fits into. This is to keep the cooler from sliding around until the TIM glues it in place. No place for a washer unless I cut it in half and slide the halves around the ends of the fin.


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> This is OT for this thread but.........
> 
> Yes, H7 is 3x pipes, but it cools better then most 4x pipe coolers.
> 
> Just a thought, have you tried using a shim spacer between crossbar and top of cooler? Something like a small washer should do. This normally increases mount pressure.
> 
> This is what drove me nuts. Using the white AMD spacers the support tightens up on the board fine but the cooler is loose on the cpu. With the slightly shorter black intel spacers the support flops around loose and will not tighten down properly. And yet the bolts WILL run down tight when off the board. Never did find what they are bottoming out on. I really need to try again.


Do you mean me?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*
> 
> So I've narrowed down my choices for new cases.
> 
> NZXT H440
> Cooler Master MasterCase Pro 5 (or the Maker)
> Cooler Master HAF XB EVO
> Phanteks Enthoo Pro (or the Pro M)
> Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX
> Fractal Design Define R5 (not my most favorite, but if it's great enough, I'll man up and use it)


H440 is restrictive in the front with little spacing. S340 is other option.
Mastercase Pro 5 and HAF XB is good
Pro M Acrylic over the Pro
Evolv great looking, you pay the higher price.
Define S over the R5 unless you need optical bay or HDD cages.


----------



## ADM989

Would that mean slower speeds as thats a x8 slot though?

I have never had a GPU, always been integrated graphics


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> H440 is restrictive in the front with little spacing. S340 is other option.
> Mastercase Pro 5 and HAF XB is good
> Pro M Acrylic over the Pro
> Evolv great looking, you pay the higher price.
> Define S over the R5 unless you need optical bay or HDD cages.


I would prefer to keep my optical drive and fan controller, and I don't really like the Define S. I can mod the H440 to fix the airflow, but I can't mod the S340 to fit a large cooler. A full acrylic side panel is just asking for trouble in my house (I got a really dumb dog who likes to crash into things, and two cats), and it looks sort of weird to me. I've reduced the cases to the H440, HAF XB EVO, Enthoo Pro M Acrylic, and the Define R5.


----------



## miklkit

I would probably already have the EVO but it is too big to fit on my 12 year old desk.

This is the air flow that works best for me. The next case I get will have very similar flow characteristics especially in the top half.


EDIT: Note that it is a $45 case with foam filters in the front.


----------



## Dimensive

Anyone with a QF120 Performance fan here? Curious about its performance and the noise level.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Anyone with a QF120 Performance fan here? Curious about its performance and the noise level.


It's good for the money, nothing remarkable about it in terms of pure performance or noise. If you have the packs of 3 options available at a good price, go for it. It uses a fancy sleeve bearing so try to have it vertical if possible. Also remember to register using the card that comes with the fan(s) within 30 days to get longer warranty.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> *Cryorig is making cases!
> *
> 
> 
> *Computex product page link*
> http://www.cryorig.com/computex2016.php


Oooooh...pretty little desktop jewelry cases.

Interested in that Taku. Would require a few minutes with the dremel tho, so it could fit a proper cooler.












The Apple trashcan tribute seems well done too, for those into the trashcan genre.


----------



## miklkit

Hey, that desktop looks a lot like the IBM I had in 1991.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> Oooooh...pretty little desktop jewelry cases.
> 
> Interested in that Taku. Would require a few minutes with the dremel tho, so it could fit a proper cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Apple trashcan tribute seems well done too, for those into the trashcan genre.


C7 is a proper cooler..... Ohhh, you meant one that can handle a lot more









Suprisingly, I actually like the cute desktop one.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> C7 is a proper cooler..... Ohhh, you meant one that can handle a lot more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Suprisingly, I actually like the cute desktop one.


Yeah...meant a properly sized cooler. Not a fan of those little bitty pancake coolers. When I pay the big bucks for lots of fins, I want to see lots of fins.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> Oooooh...pretty little desktop jewelry cases.
> 
> Interested in that Taku. Would require a few minutes with the dremel tho, so it could fit a proper cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Apple trashcan tribute seems well done too, for those into the trashcan genre.


I guess. Apple are a packaged system and Cryorgig is just a case designed to use conventional components. Tthey are similar in that both are cylindrical and have top venting, that is about all.

H
Oh! How is that cooler mounted?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Hey, that desktop looks a lot like the IBM I had in 1991.


LOL
I used to use a base to raise case so I could slide keyboard under it.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's good for the money, nothing remarkable about it in terms of pure performance or noise. If you have the packs of 3 options available at a good price, go for it. It uses a fancy sleeve bearing so try to have it vertical if possible. Also remember to register using the card that comes with the fan(s) within 30 days to get longer warranty.


Thanks, I'd mount it to my H7 since the original fan gave out within a few weeks of ownership and blew oil all over itself.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Thanks, I'd mount it to my H7 since the original fan gave out within a few weeks of ownership and blew oil all over itself.


Why not just get a warranty replacement? It's the same fan, but in the balanced version.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Why not just get a warranty replacement? It's the same fan, but in the balanced version.


I sent them an e-mail and they responded just a few hours ago. I don't know if they'll replace it because I threw the fan away because it was a mess.


----------



## KGPrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> If you can get a 'fun' 4.8-5ghz overclock on your 6700k with that little M9i and keep it under spec'd tCase at full IBT load, then we'll all be scouring eBay for 10 year NZXT cases.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know where you can get a 2nd fan for the m9i right now, cost you $19.99 (but comes with a spare heatsink)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or could go with the similar performing TR 92mm here for half as much.


True. I don't think you can get another otherwise. Well i emailed them will see, but that's an option.
I was looking at the Thermaltakes yeah, love the black/white, but that cryorig fan is much better and would seem the only reason the m9i can hold it's own so well for it's size.

My case is _perfectly_ fine.







As good as any case made today. So that has nothing to do with hitting 5Ghz. The m9i or the mobo or ram will be the factor.

It's really dumb to argue about the case. Long ago I have proved it to friends and my brothers face until they said yeah you are right. Hence my brother has the same case, lol. He was going to buy an Antec 900 like my old roomates and i said nah you don't need it. And so we all stood there in my Apt, my roomate and i basically had the same system except for case and cpu, ( he had a quad core - which i told him he didn't need at the time just to play WOW, but he was an idiot ) so in two different rooms- both had the same AC in our windows-and low and behold. My PC was overclocked and my roomates wasn't because he's a wussy, and our temps were basically exactly the same lol. All them fan in that Antec and our temps were the same. And right then and there my brother ordered the same damn case off newegg, on my account, which i have opened right here looking at my purchase history. And he still has this case. Shrug. I know people like to have some reason that makes them feel justified for spending more money, lol. I like spending less and getting basically the same performance or reliability, and i am usually successful because i will wait until i find the right thing. Even if it takes longer.

More proof is on this very page a 45$ case that's basically exactly like mine (with one extra fan in it ) and a bigger HS seems to be perfectly fine. I can put two or 3 fans in the front of mine if i wanted to, theres room in the drive cages. *I've never need it.* That's what i am saying, lol. And look, i haven't burned my house down









So as long as you aren't purely overclocking for posting meaningless results on 3dmark for 15-25 year olds to drool over. And you just use your pc for more things than just playing games, then a decent OC boost 400-600Mhz and any decent case with marginally good flow with two fans is fine. I'm not trying to argue, but when someone says something that is really not quite true trying to sell someone on some case they really don;t need. I will say something. Because there's too much stupidity out there like. Oh well, i know people hate that. Tough.

I've actually looked at every case available today out there and i don't like any of them, lol. The only tower case i really like in the slightest is the Ek Vulture and is not sold.









So I'll try for at least a modest 4.6Ghz on the m9i and try for higher "for fun" 4.8Ghz - meaning if it sticks at all - and no stability issues related to temps - then it's a success. And i'll post if i succeed or fail here.
If i have to add another fan _finally_ in 2016 due to a new cpus higher tdp. Fine. I have the extra one i bought 10 years ago with this case still in it's box that i never had to use







Still going to be in this 10 year old 89 dollar NZXT case though no matter what it's clocked too.









Be in the next few months though when i have figured out what parts i will be purchasing.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGPrime*
> 
> True. I don't think you can get another otherwise. Well i emailed them will see, but that's an option.
> I was looking at the Thermaltakes yeah, love the black/white, but that cryorig fan is much better and would seem the only reason the m9i can hold it's own so well for it's size.
> 
> My case is _perfectly_ fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As good as any case made today. So that has nothing to do with hitting 5Ghz. The m9i or the mobo or ram will be the factor.
> 
> It's really dumb to argue about the case. Long ago I have proved it to friends and my brothers face until they said yeah you are right. Hence my brother has the same case, lol. He was going to buy an Antec 900 like my old roomates and i said nah you don't need it. And so we all stood there in my Apt, my roomate and i basically had the same system except for case and cpu, ( he had a quad core - which i told him he didn't need at the time just to play WOW, but he was an idiot ) so in two different rooms- both had the same AC in our windows-and low and behold. My PC was overclocked and my roomates wasn't because he's a wussy, and our temps were basically exactly the same lol. All them fan in that Antec and our temps were the same. And right then and there my brother ordered the same damn case off newegg, on my account, which i have opened right here looking at my purchase history. And he still has this case. Shrug. I know people like to have some reason that makes them feel justified for spending more money, lol. I like spending less and getting basically the same performance or reliability, and i am usually successful because i will wait until i find the right thing. Even if it takes longer.
> 
> More proof is on this very page a 45$ case that's basically exactly like mine (with one extra fan in it ) and a bigger HS seems to be perfectly fine. I can put two or 3 fans in the front of mine if i wanted to, theres room in the drive cages. *I've never need it.* That's what i am saying, lol. And look, i haven't burned my house down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So as long as you aren't purely overclocking for posting meaningless results on 3dmark for 15-25 year olds to drool over. And you just use your pc for more things than just playing games, then a decent OC boost 400-600Mhz and any decent case with marginally good flow with two fans is fine. I'm not trying to argue, but when someone says something that is really not quite true trying to sell someone on some case they really don;t need. I will say something. Because there's too much stupidity out there like. Oh well, i know people hate that. Tough.
> 
> I've actually looked at every case available today out there and i don't like any of them, lol. The only tower case i really like in the slightest is the Ek Vulture and is not sold.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I'll try for at least a modest 4.6Ghz on the m9i and try for higher "for fun" 4.8Ghz - meaning if it sticks at all - and no stability issues related to temps - then it's a success. And i'll post if i succeed or fail here.
> If i have to add another fan _finally_ in 2016 due to a new cpus higher tdp. Fine. I have the extra one i bought 10 years ago with this case still in it's box that i never had to use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still going to be in this 10 year old 89 dollar NZXT case though no matter what it's clocked too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Be in the next few months though when i have figured out what parts i will be purchasing.


I was only poking some fun for your personal choice to defend a case you dearly love with vast quantities of prose that proves nothing more than your ability to write vast quantities of prose. Your case is perfectly fine for you for your requirements. I have no argument with that. You like it's look, that's cool. It's all sorts of fugly to my eyes, but that's just my taste. Your 10 year old case is as good as any case made today, for *you*.

Here's the thing. If you really want to make the case that any old case is good as any other case, you gotta show the numbers to us, not your brother. Read doyll's post on internal case temp monitoring - It's a simple, cheap way to verify your strongly held case. Comparing the ambient room temp with the temp reading at the cooler intake reveals how well the case is supplying cool air to the cooler. In all cases the cooler intake temp will be higher than room ambient - the goal is minimize the gradient.

While your case with a modest overclock with a little 92mm cooler might be a good balance, it's not enough to build a case for air cooling doctrine. For example, if we put my OC'd hex-core Xeon with it's D15 from my render box in your case, I can pretty much guarantee it will run much hotter than it does in its modded for airflow HAF XB home, where the gradient between room temp and cooler intake temp is 2c at full load.

Also with the limited intake flow, installing a more demanding air flow cooler and your case becomes a negative pressure dust bunny sanctuary. Maybe dust is not a consideration in your environment. For many it is. And why cases with filtered intakes with multiple fans are required.

I use my PCs for work. Hard, tough work that can never be completed fast enough. Motion graphic rendering/animation, video editing, music production and software development. Marginally good air flow isn't good enough. I need excellent, optimized, quiet airflow.

I'm not advocating that everyone must buy $100+ cases, quite the opposite. Most cases regardless of price are air flow compromised, some more than others. I haven't yet bought a case that I didn't have to mod to improve air flow and filtering.

Anyhow, will bow out of this thread. Arguing about personal case requirements is about as useful as stating a $200 Les Paul copy is good enough for any guitarist.

Have fun with your new build in its old home!


----------



## KGPrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> I was only poking some fun for your personal choice to defend a case you dearly love with vast quantities of prose that proves nothing more than your ability to write vast quantities of prose. Your case is perfectly fine for you for your requirements. I have no argument with that. You like it's look, that's cool. It's all sorts of fugly to my eyes, but that's just my taste. Your 10 year old case is as good as any case made today, for *you*.
> 
> Here's the thing. If you really want to make the case that any old case is good as any other case, you gotta show the numbers to us, not your brother. Read doyll's post on internal case temp monitoring - It's a simple, cheap way to verify your strongly held case. Comparing the ambient room temp with the temp reading at the cooler intake reveals how well the case is supplying cool air to the cooler. In all cases the cooler intake temp will be higher than room ambient - the goal is minimize the gradient.
> 
> While your case with a modest overclock with a little 92mm cooler might be a good balance, it's not enough to build a case for air cooling doctrine. For example, if we put my OC'd hex-core Xeon with it's D15 from my render box in your case, I can pretty much guarantee it will run much hotter than it does in its modded for airflow HAF XB home, where the gradient between room temp and cooler intake temp is 2c at full load.
> 
> Also with the limited intake flow, installing a more demanding air flow cooler and your case becomes a negative pressure dust bunny sanctuary. Maybe dust is not a consideration in your environment. For many it is. And why cases with filtered intakes with multiple fans are required.
> 
> I use my PCs for work. Hard, tough work that can never be completed fast enough. Motion graphic rendering/animation, video editing, music production and software development. Marginally good air flow isn't good enough. I need excellent, optimized, quiet airflow.
> 
> I'm not advocating that everyone must buy $100+ cases, quite the opposite. Most cases regardless of price are air flow compromised, some more than others. I haven't yet bought a case that I didn't have to mod to improve air flow and filtering.
> 
> Anyhow, will bow out of this thread. Arguing about personal case requirements is about as useful as stating a $200 Les Paul copy is good enough for any guitarist.
> 
> Have fun with your new build in its old home!


Yeah i type a lot, sorry. I also read a lot. It's not a problem for me like some in this 140 characters or less fruit gnat attention span world, ( not aiming at you ).

While i quoted you, the rest is just general speak on the topic. Not sure if you read it though because everything you said i addressed in one way or another. You basically said what i said or addressed in your own words.

And a 200 dollar Les Paul copy is good enough for any guitarist. All guitars need to be set up. I can make any piece of junk play good.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGPrime*
> 
> And a 200 dollar Les Paul copy is good enough for any guitarist. All guitars need to be set up. I can make any piece of junk play good.


And with that, I now know everything I need to know about you........


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KGPrime*
> 
> Yeah i type a lot, sorry. I also read a lot. It's not a problem for me like some in this 140 characters or less fruit gnat attention span world, ( not aiming at you ).
> 
> While i quoted you, the rest is just general speak on the topic. Not sure if you read it though because everything you said i addressed in one way or another. You basically said what i said or addressed in your own words.
> 
> *And a 200 dollar Les Paul copy is good enough for any guitarist.* All guitars need to be set up. I can make any piece of junk play good.


What ciarlatano posted sums it up nicely.

I know many guitarists, both amateur and professional. None would agree with you and very few have guitars that are worth less than $200 but maybe for backpacking and playing around a campfire.

While many needed setup, many were as 'setup' as good as is possible to do .. as is any hand built / custom guitar purchased from luthier, usually the one who made them. But they are like any fine piece, they do need adjustments and resets made over time.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What ciarlatano posted sums it up nicely.
> 
> I know many guitarists, both amateur and professional. None would agree with you and very few have guitars that are worth less than $200 but maybe for backpacking and playing around a campfire.
> 
> While many needed setup, many were as 'setup' as good as is possible to do .. as is any hand built / custom guitar purchased from luthier, usually the one who made them. But they are like any fine piece, they do need adjustments and resets made over time.


I definitely agree. It's like people who claim an $800 composite oboe will perform the exact same way as a solid wood $18k oboe... They'll sound similar in a novice's hands, but the instant you get someone with even a few months of experience holding it the differences are astronomical.

... And I don't even play guitar. Probably never will, but the differences between a $200 and $2000 electric guitar from the same range and design philosophies are once again rather different in how they sound.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I definitely agree. It's like people who claim an $800 composite oboe will perform the exact same way as a solid wood $18k oboe... They'll sound similar in a novice's hands, but the instant you get someone with even a few months of experience holding it the differences are astronomical.
> 
> ... And I don't even play guitar. Probably never will, but the differences between a $200 and $2000 electric guitar from the same range and design philosophies are once again rather different in how they sound.


Indeed.
Not playing does not mean we cannot appreciate the sound quality. It's like listening to digital recordings versus vinyl; or a tube versue solid-state amp; a guitar with 3 day old strings versus a set installed a few hours ago. There is definitely a difference.
And more evident and apparent in acoustic instruments than electric ones.
My son's lady is a violinist in St. Louis Symphony Orchestra. Her bow is worth over $2000 alone.
A bit off.. well totally off, but have you ever seen what the strings look like filmed with a video camera? It's kinda mind blowing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwxIg7YkaLc


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Indeed.
> Not playing does not mean we cannot appreciate the sound quality. It's like listening to digital recordings versus vinyl; or a tube versue solid-state amp; a guitar with 3 day old strings versus a set installed a few hours ago. There is definitely a difference.
> And more evident and apparent in acoustic instruments than electric ones.
> *My son's lady is a violinist in St. Louis Symphony Orchestra. Her bow is worth over $2000 alone.*
> A bit off.. well totally off, but have you ever seen what the strings look like filmed with a video camera? It's kinda mind blowing.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwxIg7YkaLc


Your son's lady just loves to throw away money. She could have had the Little Virtuoso Fun Fiddle for only $11.97 at Walmart. Same thing.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Anyways, on the topic of coolers... @doyll, would you happen to have any recommendations for coolers going on an Intel S2600CP2J to keep dual e5-2670's nice and cool as BOINC runs almost 24/7 on all sixteen threads per processor?

Case it would be going into would be a BeQuiet SilentBase 800 without window. Yes, I do understand ssi-eeb is more along the lines of "unofficially" supported in that case but supposedly they'll fit, and the case would be on a "it'll do the job" basis until I can afford a CaseLabs SMA8.

Thanks in advance


----------



## KGPrime

I know the internets needs proofs, so here's some. The guitars of Frank Zappa that were used on Legendary recordings. One of his most famous is a cheap SG copy. http://www.angelfire.com/freak2/arfz/equipment.html

Brian Mays home made cheap guitar "red Special;" played on nearly every legendary queen recordings. http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2014/oct/18/brian-may-queen-guitar-red-special-dad

Eddie Van Halens "Frankenstein" guitar played on Van Halen Legendary recordings. 150 bucks for the body and neck. https://frankenstrat.wordpress.com/history-of-the-frankenstrat/

Jimmi Hendrix list of "cheap" guitars http://www.groundguitar.com/jimi-hendrix-gear/


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Anyways, on the topic of coolers... @doyll, would you happen to have any recommendations for coolers going on an Intel S2600CP2J to keep dual e5-2670's nice and cool as BOINC runs almost 24/7 on all sixteen threads per processor?
> 
> Case it would be going into would be a BeQuiet SilentBase 800 without window. Yes, I do understand ssi-eeb is more along the lines of "unofficially" supported in that case but supposedly they'll fit, and the case would be on a "it'll do the job" basis until I can afford a CaseLabs SMA8.
> 
> Thanks in advance


First thing we need to do is get rid of the cheap background noise.








Case has 170mm CPU clearance.

Quick scaling of MB says about 67mm center CPU toward other CPU cooler clearance. (134mm center CPU to center CPU)
E5-2670 is 115 TDP so makes a bit of heat, but nothing outrageous.

Do you plan to overclock?

Not sure what all is available in Canada. Something similar to Hyper 212 in size should fit.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> First thing we need to do is get rid of the cheap background noise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Case has 170mm CPU clearance.
> 
> Quick scaling of MB says about 67mm center CPU toward other CPU cooler clearance. (134mm center CPU to center CPU)
> E5-2670 is 115 TDP so makes a bit of heat, but nothing outrageous.
> 
> Do you plan to overclock?
> 
> Not sure what all is available in Canada. Something similar to Hyper 212 in size should fit.


He can plan to overclock, but those plans will be foiled.

Readily available quality options are from Noctua, Be!Q and Phanteks and if you ask nicely, Megahalems in dressed-to-kill Black. No TR or Cryorig. Or any Scythe coolers released in the current decade.

The Noc U12 or TC12X would suffice real nice. But, that Megahalems in black is probably the sexiest cooler ever released in Canada. They'll probably ban it soon for that very reason.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> He can plan to overclock, but those plans will be foiled.
> 
> Readily available quality options are from Noctua, Be!Q and Phanteks and if you ask nicely, Megahalems in dressed-to-kill Black. No TR or Cryorig. Or any Scythe coolers released in the current decade.
> 
> The Noc U12 or TC12X would suffice real nice. But, that Megahalems in black is probably the sexiest cooler ever released in Canada. They'll probably ban it soon for that very reason.


@WhiteWulfe
Could you start a thread? This Cryorig cooler thread is getting way off-track.
I have dimensional drawings for many coolers and can post them if needed.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @WhiteWulfe
> Could you start a thread? This Cryorig cooler thread is getting way off-track.
> I have dimensional drawings for many coolers and can post them if needed.


This is the Cryorig thread? When did that happen?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> First thing we need to do is get rid of the cheap background noise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Case has 170mm CPU clearance.
> 
> Quick scaling of MB says about 67mm center CPU toward other CPU cooler clearance. (134mm center CPU to center CPU)
> E5-2670 is 115 TDP so makes a bit of heat, but nothing outrageous.
> 
> Do you plan to overclock?
> 
> Not sure what all is available in Canada. Something similar to Hyper 212 in size should fit.


Sadly, my original preference isn't directly available in Canada (Cryorig), but word is that you can email them and order directly.... unless such has changed in recent times. I totally forgot to mention preference is for Cryorig, as I very much so like my R1 Ultimate in my gaming rig. In fact, I eventually plan on upgrading my benching rig to a Cryorig cooler as well (well, when the cooling pot isn't over the processor anyways) ^_^

And while it is "only" a 115W TDP processor, most setups tend to pull around 380-400 watts overall from the wall when running BOINC. I suspect this is due to more power being drawn thanks to turbo being maxed out (3.3GHz) in combination with hyperthreading and all 16 threads per processor being maxed out load wise. Oh, and the 32-64GB (I'll be getting 64GB) of ECC DDR3 probably helps a bit with that power consumption too.

Wonder if the R1 Ultimate would fit, and if it would be overkill for that kind of load.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> He can plan to overclock, but those plans will be foiled.
> 
> Readily available quality options are from Noctua, Be!Q and Phanteks and if you ask nicely, Megahalems in dressed-to-kill Black. No TR or Cryorig. Or any Scythe coolers released in the current decade.
> 
> The Noc U12 or TC12X would suffice real nice. But, that Megahalems in black is probably the sexiest cooler ever released in Canada. They'll probably ban it soon for that very reason.


What, you mean running BOINC in Linux isn't considered overclocking with it's 15-20% gains in PPD (points per day) due to the much more efficient operating system?







2P Xeons haven't been overclockable for a while, and even trying to do bclk/fsb overclocking is going to be a bad time since I'm looking at an Intel server board. So no plans for overclocking them ^_^
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @WhiteWulfe
> Could you start a thread? This Cryorig cooler thread is getting way off-track.
> I have dimensional drawings for many coolers and can post them if needed.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1601281/cooler-suggestions-for-a-2p-e5-2670-xeon-setup/0_40 ^_^


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

You can still order directly from Cryorig.
On certain products, you can download the origami models to see how they fit.

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You can still order directly from Cryorig.
> On certain products, you can download the origami models to see how they fit.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


Definitely good to hear the direct ordering is still possible!


----------



## doyll

If you do order direct, don't expect anything to happen soon. Computex 2016 is May 31 to June 4, so all major computer companies are totally involved for about 10 days now (have been for last week or so).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You can still order directly from Cryorig.
> On certain products, you can download the origami models to see how they fit.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


How is this done?
They give lists for distributor retail, physical and on-line stores, but I see notching about direct order.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If you do order direct, don't expect anything to happen soon. Computex 2016 is May 31 to June 4, so all major computer companies are totally involved for about 10 days now (have been for last week or so).
> How is this done?
> They give lists for distributor retail, physical and on-line stores, but I see notching about direct order.


As Cryorig has nothing in canada, I just sent them a message asking to buy. They send me an email with price + shipping in US funds.
I them pay via PayPal.
That is how I got my C1 and ordered H5 and H7.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> As Cryorig has nothing in canada, I just sent them a message asking to buy. They send me an email with price + shipping in US funds.
> I them pay via PayPal.
> That is how I got my C1 and ordered H5 and H7.


Thanks!








Could I ask what the shipping costs were, and if you had to pay any customs / duty / import fees how much they were?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

To where I live they charged me $17 shipping. I had no fees or duties.
Most times custom dont bother with items under $80. They used EMS and then Canada Post.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> To where I live they charged me $17 shipping. I had no fees or duties.
> Most times custom dont bother with items under $80. They used EMS and then Canada Post.


Thanks!








Good info for Canadian buyers. $17 is not bad considering the CAD value is so low.

H7 would be $45.58 + $17.00 = 62.58 Canadian
H5 would be $61.22 + $17.00 = 68.22 Canadian


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Incorrect. the prices would be in US.
The $17 shipping is not for the same product, was for my C1.
It will vary on which one it is, as dues to the size and weight.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Incorrect. the prices would be in US.
> The $17 shipping is not for the same product, was for my C1.
> It will vary on which one it is, as dues to the size and weight.


Sorry, my bad. The cooler cost I converted to CAD, $17 would be $22 CAD. I'm used to boxes the size and weight of coolers being the same shipping cost even though they are not all the same size and weight.


----------



## Gilles3000

No idea if anyone noticed this before, but isn't the XT140 very similar to Thermalright's 140mm slim fan? Especially odd considering Cryorig claims that the blade design is proprietary?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> No idea if anyone noticed this before, but isn't the XT140 very similar to Thermalright's 140mm slim fan? Especially odd considering Cryorig claims that the blade design is proprietary?


Cryorig XT140 and TY-14013 are similar, but I see several differences.Maybe that helmet you where is the problem.








Both have a curved blade but that is nothing new to blade design. If you look closely you will see the tips and finish are different,
I do have the advantge over you of having both to look at and use. Although I have not done any A/B test comparisons, both do very well.
 

Maybe after Computex 2016 is over Steve will pop in and explain what is 'proprietary' about them.








I would not be surprised if it is just wording some marketing / advertising type came up with.








It's kinda sad that this is done, but it has become a necessary evil in modern advertising. Quality and performance of product have become secondary to marketing hype to keep sales up with the competition. It's only after the sale is made that the quality, performance and customer support can be seen and shown to others. Also keep in mind how many people do not frequent forums like this to see how users with the products like them. They read Amazon or newegg buyer reviews .. which are usually first time buyers with little to no experience to base their evaluations on. They have XYZ cheap garage fan and buy a ABC replacement that does better, therefore ABC is a fantastic product in their eyes.

How did they pick their ABC replacement from the mountain of available replaceents? Why they looked at images and of course read the marketing / advertising hype published with them.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Cryorig XT140 and TY-14013 are similar, but I see several differences.Maybe that helmet you where is the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both have a curved blade but that is nothing new to blade design. If you look closely you will see the tips and finish are different,
> I do have the advantge over you of having both to look at and use. Although I have not done any A/B test comparisons, both do very well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe after Computex 2016 is over Steve will pop in and explain what is 'proprietary' about them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would not be surprised if it is just wording some marketing / advertising type came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's kinda sad that this is done, but it has become a necessary evil in modern advertising. Quality and performance of product have become secondary to marketing hype to keep sales up with the competition. It's only after the sale is made that the quality, performance and customer support can be seen and shown to others. Also keep in mind how many people do not frequent forums like this to see how users with the products like them. They read Amazon or newegg buyer reviews .. which are usually first time buyers with little to no experience to base their evaluations on. They have XYZ cheap garage fan and buy a ABC replacement that does better, therefore ABC is a fantastic product in their eyes.
> 
> How did they pick their ABC replacement from the mountain of available replaceents? Why they looked at images and of course read the marketing / advertising hype published with them.


Haha, I did notice the difference just brought it up because aside from them, the similarities are quite striking. As to me, from what I can tell from pictures, the blade count, pitch, curve, hub and motor are pretty much identical.

Not that this is an issue, as the XT140 does have some value add properties over the Thermalright, like the more pleasing aesthetic and the build in vibration dampening on the frame.

Wasn't really intending to bash Cryorigs marketing either, just found it to be a bit peculiar and thought it might be interesting to bring it up.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Haha, I did notice the difference just brought it up because aside from them, the similarities are quite striking. As to me, from what I can tell from pictures, the blade count, pitch, curve, hub and motor are pretty much identical.
> 
> Not that this is an issue, as the XT140 does have some value add properties over the Thermalright, like the more pleasing aesthetic and the build in vibration dampening on the frame.
> 
> Wasn't really intending to bash Cryorigs marketing either, just found it to be a bit peculiar and thought it might be interesting to bring it up.


Whatever.
Both fans came out about the same time as well.
Both fans have similarl + / - points.

I guess I could mount up a 140mm fan cooler and collect some real data in comparison tests sometime, but they are pretty much purpose made for the coolers they are sold with. I don't think many sell independently for other applications, but I could be wrong.


----------



## hernan86

Intel I7 6700K + Cryorig C7?

Someone?


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hernan86*
> 
> Intel I7 6700K + Cryorig C7?
> 
> Someone?


You rang?









C7 on 6700k? Not for suited for overclocking. C1 would be the cool cooler choice.


----------



## bdc604

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hernan86*
> 
> Intel I7 6700K + Cryorig C7?
> 
> Someone?


I run a cryorig c7 on a non-overclocked i7-6700k. no gfx card yet, waiting for 1070, therefore the cpu is doing all the work.

30 deg on idle, 50 on load (load being a moderate game like civ 5 on max settings).


----------



## jagz

I have begun overclocking my 6600k and I remain extremely impressed with the H7


----------



## therealjustin

Any news on a new flagship cooler to replace the R1?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *therealjustin*
> 
> Any news on a new flagship cooler to replace the R1?


New? What's wrong wiht the R1?
















I do wish they would get the Z1 relased.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *therealjustin*
> 
> Any news on a new flagship cooler to replace the R1?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> New? What's wrong wiht the R1?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do wish they would get the Z1 relased.


Exactly. You have arguably the best performing and best looking cooler on the market, that happens to come with the best mounting kit around......why would you replace it?


----------



## Loladinas

Because it's so 2014. Get with the times, grandpa.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loladinas*
> 
> Because it's so 2014. Get with the times, grandpa.


Eh, better than the recurring 2012 of CLCs and the 212 EVO.


----------



## Kutalion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Eh, better than the recurring 2012 of CLCs and the 212 EVO.


212x being worse than original 212 ftw


----------



## Roaches

Uses same blade design of an existing design.

Gives it a surface finish and calls it proprietary.

Is this the new joke of the industry? Yes it is.


----------



## doyll

Just MOTS. It's getting harder and harder to get real information with all the hype advertising. It used to be traveling hypersters selling wonder elixers that cured everything, now it's computer cooling advertising.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> Uses same blade design of an existing design.
> 
> Gives it a surface finish and calls it proprietary.
> 
> Is this the new joke of the industry? Yes it is.


Joke.....or incredibly successful ploy at selling vapor to the gullible?


----------



## Cakewalk_S

I wonder how well a lapped C7 with CLU would do on a direct die CPU... I'm considering this already for my next build...I just hate the fact that you're tied down to a push down fan instead of sucking air up and out...


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> I wonder how well a lapped C7 with CLU would do on a direct die CPU... I'm considering this already for my next build...I just hate the fact that you're tied down to a push down fan instead of sucking air up and out...


you are not tied down to push. I have mine set to pull with better results as long you have the direct airflow to move air through C7.

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> you are not tied down to push. I have mine set to pull with better results as long you have the direct airflow to move air through C7.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


I don't know how you turned the fan over so it pulls air out and kept the blades from hitting the fins on cooler (because the fan shroud does not stick out even flush with fan blades and motor hub) and secured it to cooler (because the fan shroud has the fan clip formed into it.).

Could you please post some pics and a short guide of how you did it?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

When you pull 1-3hr days of no sleep and try to figure out everything is almost impossible. I was looking at C7 instead of my C1.
My apologies.

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> When you pull 1-3hr days of no sleep and try to figure out everything is almost impossible. I was looking at C7 instead of my C1.
> My apologies.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


I can relate to that.








C1 the fans can easily be reversed, but not C7. I would love to see Cryorgi make a universal fan and mount for C7 cooler or a reverse flow C7 fan as option. Of the 8-10 systems I've done with pancake coolers only one cooled as well with downflow a upflow .. not better, just as well. All the others ran hotter with downflow than upflow.


----------



## Fear Before

I just installed a H7 and I noticed that it pivots even though everything is secured. Does this have to do with the screw in the center? I couldn't find any info on it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear Before*
> 
> I just installed a H7 and I noticed that it pivots even though everything is secured. Does this have to do with the screw in the center? I couldn't find any info on it.


It is not uncommon to be able to move cooler a little when mounted. The mounting pressure is only 50 lbf, which is really not much.


----------



## Fear Before

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> It is not uncommon to be able to move cooler a little when mounted. The mounting pressure is only 50 lbf, which is really not much.


Ok thank you. This is my first tower cooler with a mounting system like that so I wasn't sure. I'll keep a eye on the temps and if they're good then I won't worry about it. Just kinda suprised me it wasn't more stable thats all.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear Before*
> 
> Ok thank you. This is my first tower cooler with a mounting system like that so I wasn't sure. I'll keep a eye on the temps and if they're good then I won't worry about it. Just kinda suprised me it wasn't more stable thats all.


I've mounted my H7 about 5 or 6 times testing it and never had a problem. Be careful to not use too much TIM. A dob the size of a grain of rice is about right .. it should press out to a round print almost to edges of of IHS. On Intel CPUs there is no advantage to full IHS coverage. Remember, the goal is to not be a film between IHS and cooler, but to only fill any voids that are not metal to metal contact. 10th post in 'Ways to Better Cooling' explains it
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22335323


----------



## Techbyte

I see this thread is more so focused at the higher end Cryorig coolers, but I figured it would be a good place to inquire about the M9i and Cryorig thermal compounds.

So, I recently ordered a Cryorig M9i. It will be going on top of an i5 6500 in a Fractal Design Define Nano S. I am wondering about the included thermal compound. I assume it will be good enough, especially for my scenario. I am just wondering if it is any good?

Also, what would the real performance difference be between CP15, CP7, and CP5?

Thanks


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techbyte*
> 
> I see this thread is more so focused at the higher end Cryorig coolers, but I figured it would be a good place to inquire about the M9i and Cryorig thermal compounds.
> 
> So, I recently ordered a Cryorig M9i. It will be going on top of an i5 6500 in a Fractal Design Define Nano S. I am wondering about the included thermal compound. I assume it will be good enough, especially for my scenario. I am just wondering if it is any good?
> 
> Also, what would the real performance difference be between CP15, CP7, and CP5?
> 
> Thanks


Great little cooler! Included TIM is also good, just be careful to not use too much. A dob the size of a grain of rice in the middle of CPU is plenty. TIM print only needs to be a round circle just reaching the sides of IHS. Like the first image here.


----------



## Damasterjj

I think my H7 is defective. what temps are you guys getting?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> I think my H7 is defective. what temps are you guys getting?


Based on what data? Do you know what the air temp going into your H7 is? What CPU, and overclock if any?


----------



## Damasterjj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Based on what data? Do you know what the air temp going into your H7 is? What CPU, and overclock if any?


6700K with 4.5 OC with prime 95 28.7 small FFT. seems impossible without hitting 80+C? Right now I can do 4.4 with same test below 80C.

do you think adding a second fan will help?


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Based on what data? Do you know what the air temp going into your H7 is? What CPU, and overclock if any?
> 
> 
> 
> 6700K with 4.5 OC with prime 95 28.7 small FFT. seems impossible without hitting 80+C? Right now I can do 4.4 with same test below 80C.
> 
> do you think adding a second fan will help?
Click to expand...

Sounds like your CPU needs a delid... Plus that prime test is so demanding its unrealistic... try a more realistic stress test... how bout realbench. lol


----------



## Damasterjj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Sounds like your CPU needs a delid... Plus that prime test is so demanding its unrealistic... try a more realistic stress test... how bout realbench. lol


lol, prime is not real enough I've read about delid but how good is coolabolatory liquid ultra long term durability? I read that it needs to replace after 8 months?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> 6700K with 4.5 OC with prime 95 28.7 small FFT. seems impossible without hitting 80+C? Right now I can do 4.4 with same test below 80C.
> 
> do you think adding a second fan will help?


Without knowing what your setup is and how case airflow is working I have no idea. You did not answer my question about what the air temp going into your H7 is, and that is a critical bit of info.


----------



## doyll

dbl post


----------



## Damasterjj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Without knowing what your setup is and how case airflow is working I have no idea. You did not answer my question about what the air temp going into your H7 is, and that is a critical bit of info.


I have AC 24/7 during summer, room temp is more or less 22C/72F highest probably around 75.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> room temp is more or less 22C/72F highest probably around 75.


I didn't ask your room temp! I asked the cooler intake air temp!
















While delidding may help, 6700 do not respond to it as well as earlier generations. The H7 is not a big cooler so we need to make sure it is getting cool air. Like I posted, it is not at all uncommon to see air 15-20c warmer than room going into coolers. That is 10-15c higher than it can easily be setup to be .. and that translates into 10-15c higher CPU temps than if case airflow is done properly. You might find 'Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig of interest. 1st post in index, click on topics to see them. 5th topic is a good starting point.

Edit: Pirme is not a good stress tester anymore. Most use H264 or simllar


----------



## Damasterjj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I didnt' ask your room temp! I asked the cooler intake air temp!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While delidding may help, 6700 do not respond to it as well as earlier generations. The H7 is not a big cooler so we need to make sure it is getting cool air. Like I posted, it is not at all uncommon to see air 15-20c warmer than room going into coolers. That is 10-15c higher than it can easily be setup to be .. and that translates into 10-15c higher CPU temps than if case airflow is done properly. You might find 'Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig of interest. 1st post in index, click on topics to see them. 5th topic is a good starting point.


thanks for responding, Air coming in H7 shouldn't be to far from room temp. in fact I tried open case and the temperature I get is almost the same. actually I'm glad you ask because the air coming directly behind H7 doesn't seem all that hot. In comparison when I have evo 212 the air coming out was warm.

btw, my case has one 120 intake fan, one 120 exhaust fan all spinning 1000 to 1100rpm. the PSU is directly on top and should provide another exhaust. the graphic card shouldn't produce any heat during Prime 95


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> room temp is more or less 22C/72F highest probably around 75.


I didnt' ask your room temp! I asked the cooler intake air temp!
















While delidding may help, 6700 do not respond to it as well as earlier generations. The H7 is not a big cooler so we need to make sure it is getting cool air. Like I posted, it is not at all uncommon to see air 15-20c warmer than room going into coolers. That is 10-15c higher than it can easily be setup to be .. and that translates into 10-15c higher CPU temps than if case airflow is done properly. You might find 'Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig of interest. 1st post in index, click on topics to see them. 5th topic is a good starting point.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> thanks for responding, Air coming in H7 shouldn't be to far from room temp. in fact I tried open case and the temperature I get is almost the same. actually I'm glad you ask because the air coming directly behind H7 doesn't seem all that hot. In comparison when I have evo 212 the air coming out was warm.
> 
> btw, my case has one 120 intake fan, one 120 exhaust fan all spinning 1000 to 1100rpm. the PSU is directly on top and should provide another exhaust. the graphic card shouldn't produce any heat during Prime 95


While the H7 is better than 212, it is not a huge difference. Maybe you didn't get a good mount.
Read this and try re-mounting your H7
Read this and try re-mounting your H7
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22335323


----------



## Damasterjj

OK thanks , I'll try re-mount


----------



## Techbyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Great little cooler! Included TIM is also good, just be careful to not use too much. A dob the size of a grain of rice in the middle of CPU is plenty. TIM print only needs to be a round circle just reaching the sides of IHS. Like the first image here.


Awesome, good to know. I did just stick with the stock thermal paste. I liked that it is similar to AS5 in texture. I had some phanteks paste before and I am not sure if it was just old but it was so thick / dry it did not want to spread at all. It reminded me of silly puddy.

I painted my motherboard heatsinks and I taped off the cooler completely to paint the top metal panel. Turned out great.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techbyte*
> 
> Awesome, good to know. I did just stick with the stock thermal paste. I liked that it is similar to AS5 in texture. I had some phanteks paste before and I am not sure if it was just old but it was so thick / dry it did not want to spread at all. It reminded me of silly puddy.
> 
> I painted my motherboard heatsinks and I taped off the cooler completely to paint the top metal panel. Turned out great.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks nice.


----------



## miklkit

I am trying to help someone who has overheating problems with a Cryorig H7. I have heard nothing but good about Cryorig so decided his problems must be elsewhere.

But!

It turns out that the H7 only has 3 heat pipes which is insufficient for even a stock AMD FX, but also the base is too small! It does not even cover the entire CPU! AMD has been making their CPUs the same 40X40 size for for....I have a Sempron 2200+ socket 754 CPU that is well over a decade old that is the same size as my FX9590. The next generation Zen CPU will also be 40x40.

What is Cryorig thinking?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I am trying to help someone who has overheating problems with a Cryorig H7. I have heard nothing but good about Cryorig so decided his problems must be elsewhere.
> 
> But!
> 
> It turns out that the H7 only has 3 heat pipes which is insufficient for even a stock AMD FX, but also the base is too small! It does not even cover the entire CPU! AMD has been making their CPUs the same 40X40 size for for....I have a Sempron 2200+ socket 754 CPU that is well over a decade old that is the same size as my FX9590. The next generation Zen CPU will also be 40x40.
> 
> What is Cryorig thinking?


You can't define cooler performance by the number of heat pipes, it really doesn't work that way. A cooler needs an appropriate amount of heat pipes for its fin's surface area, and heat pipe quality matters too. Jamming more heat pipes in there only increases cost and does nothing for performance, only thing its good for is marketing.

Also, the base's surface are is enough to cover more than the die, shouldn't be much of an issue.

I suggest you friend checks his mount, TIM application and case airflow, as those are much more likely causes.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I am trying to help someone who has overheating problems with a Cryorig H7. I have heard nothing but good about Cryorig so decided his problems must be elsewhere.
> 
> But!
> 
> It turns out that the H7 only has 3 heat pipes which is insufficient for even a stock AMD FX, but also the base is too small! It does not even cover the entire CPU! AMD has been making their CPUs the same 40X40 size for for....I have a Sempron 2200+ socket 754 CPU that is well over a decade old that is the same size as my FX9590. The next generation Zen CPU will also be 40x40.
> 
> What is Cryorig thinking?


Cryorig H7 is not the issue here. Make sure the mounting is correctly done and properly secured.
What is his CPU that is using and what temps?
Is the CPU OC? If it is what are the voltage and clock speed?
What are the ambient temps?
What case and airflow?


----------



## Kutalion

Fx 9590 shouldnt be cooled by budget air coolers. Its by far the most power hungry thermal beast that exists atm.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I am trying to help someone who has overheating problems with a Cryorig H7. I have heard nothing but good about Cryorig so decided his problems must be elsewhere.
> 
> But!
> 
> It turns out that the H7 only has 3 heat pipes which is insufficient for even a stock AMD FX, but also the base is too small! It does not even cover the entire CPU! AMD has been making their CPUs the same 40X40 size for for....I have a Sempron 2200+ socket 754 CPU that is well over a decade old that is the same size as my FX9590. The next generation Zen CPU will also be 40x40.
> 
> What is Cryorig thinking?


What is Cryorig thinking? is not what you should be asking.









What you should be asking is who in their right mind would even think about using such a small cooler on a 220w TDP FX9590 CPU. No 3x or 4x pipe cooler with a fin pack designed for 120mm fan is really up that kind of heat.

That's like trying to pull a loaded 18 wheeler tractor trailer with a Porsche 911 Carrera. It''s a great classic sports car, but it's not designed .. nor will it bee able to .. pull 40000 pounds of cargo.









I don't know if it's a fault on Cryorig's part. The H7 is a great little cooler and does a fantatic job on 'normal' TDP CPUs.

But I digress

H7 has a base 35mm x 40mm versus your 40mm x40mm IHS size. My guess is they are radiused with so actual flat top area is probably about 36x36mm .. meaning the 35x40mm cooler base overlaps on 2 sides and is 0.5mm from edge of the other 2. Hardly a big deal in my opinion.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Not once did he mention that the person he his helping has a FX9590.
But anyone one who owns a FX9590 should know exactly what is needed to be cooled with. It is not a CPU for beginners or someone with lack of knowledge.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Not once did he mention that the person he his helping has a FX9590.
> But anyone one who owns a FX9590 should know exactly what is needed to be cooled with. It is not a CPU for beginners or someone with lack of knowledge.


Was editing that while you posted.









He's talking about his own FX9590 and AMD IHS size of 40x40mm versus H7 35x40mm. While cooler base is square edged, all IHSs I've seen had radius of a couple mm .. meaning H7 would cover IHS and transfer heat with no problems as long as CPU isn't pushing more heat than cooler is designed to handle.


----------



## miklkit

Where to start?

The number of heat pipes means nothing?!?!?!?! You are unbelievable.

I mentioned my 9590 as an example. The user has an 8320 which looks exactly the same except for the printing on it. And AMD CPUs have no radius. The edge is square.
 

The user is actually running at a very low voltage of 1.34 volts and it is able to cool it at that low level. Barely. He has also reinstalled it multiple times with no change. We are looking into better case cooling to help out until he can get a real cooler. At this point the stock cooler is better.

What set me off is the too small base. Why would they go cheap like that? It makes me suspect their entire product line. And yes a cooler that does not cover the entire CPU is not cooling as well as it could. I have mis-mounted coolers so that they do not cover the entire die and cooling is indeed worse.

It isn't like AMD suddenly changed anything. It is that Cryorig doesn't care.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

What are the temps from 8320. Here is a delid fx8320 showing you the small center chip, which is enough for the H7.
Is H7 mounted in the correct orientation? There is so much missing info on the build and temps surrounding this.
H7 has outperformed the Hyper 212 in many times, yet lots of people get 212 to cool FX8320.
To say stock is cooling better then there is a problem.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Where to start?
> 
> The number of heat pipes means nothing?!?!?!?! You are unbelievable.
> 
> I mentioned my 9590 as an example. The user has an 8320 which looks exactly the same except for the printing on it. And AMD CPUs have no radius. The edge is square.
> 
> 
> The user is actually running at a very low voltage of 1.34 volts and it is able to cool it at that low level. Barely. He has also reinstalled it multiple times with no change. We are looking into better case cooling to help out until he can get a real cooler. At this point the stock cooler is better.
> 
> What set me off is the too small base. Why would they go cheap like that? It makes me suspect their entire product line. And yes a cooler that does not cover the entire CPU is not cooling as well as it could. I have mis-mounted coolers so that they do not cover the entire die and cooling is indeed worse.
> 
> It isn't like AMD suddenly changed anything. It is that Cryorig doesn't care.


Sorry, but I think it's more your not understanding how big the cooler base needs to be to transfer the heat verses the area the often are.

The heat from CPUI transits almost completely straight through the IHS .. with only a few mm of radial movement The IHS size is more to give cooler base and area to set on. The name "Integrated Heat Spreader" is not really not accurate. Sure, it does spread a litle heat,but the IHS overall size is more to create a flat area to keep cooler flat over the chip and spread the bearing load of seat pressure over a larger area of than spread heat.

If the entire base needed to be as big as the IHS,a dob of TIMthe size of a grain of rice in middle pressing out to form a round circle print would not cool near as well as TIM spread over entire IHS. And we all know the a small dob does a very good job .. usually better than a full spread of TIM.









What Sp33d Junki3 said.


----------



## Kutalion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Where to start?
> 
> The number of heat pipes means nothing?!?!?!?! You are unbelievable.
> 
> I mentioned my 9590 as an example. The user has an 8320 which looks exactly the same except for the printing on it. And AMD CPUs have no radius.
> 
> The user is actually running at a very low voltage of 1.34 volts and it is able to cool it at that low level. Barely. He has also reinstalled it multiple times with no change. We are looking into better case cooling to help out until he can get a real cooler. At this point the stock cooler is better.
> 
> What set me off is the too small base. Why would they go cheap like that? It makes me suspect their entire product line. And yes a cooler that does not cover the entire CPU is not cooling as well as it could. I have mis-mounted coolers so that they do not cover the entire die and cooling is indeed worse.
> 
> It isn't like AMD suddenly changed anything. It is that Cryorig doesn't care.


1) number of heatpipes helps but isnt the only thing that affects cooling nor is it dominant.

2) 1.34v on fx cpu is not low at all. Its an overclock.

3) I can say with certainty that H7 can cool that as i had it on test. Its better than 212x and 212evo, which can both cool up to 1.4ish volts. So the problem lies in bad airflow in case or bad mounting. And i really hope you use amd overdrive for termal measurements.


----------



## miklkit

1.34 volts is quite low as many motherboards default to 1.4 volts. That is actually an undervolt in this case.

Fans are dominant for cooling, then heat pipes, then fins. The Silver Arrow with 8 heat pipes has the most powerful fans and the least finning. It is also extremely light.

It is in a stock NZXT case so it is doing whatever those 3 case fans are doing. I have NEVER used AMD overdrive.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> 1.34 volts is quite low as many motherboards default to 1.4 volts. That is actually an undervolt in this case.


While technically its an "undervolt" if you take the 9590 for what it really is, an overclocked 8350, its an increased voltage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Fans are dominant for cooling, then heat pipes, then fins. The Silver Arrow with 8 heat pipes has the most powerful fans and the least finning. It is also extremely light.


Could you drop it already its not the cooler, the H7 is one of the best coolers in its class and outperforms many with more heat pipes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> It is in a stock NZXT case so it is doing whatever those 3 case fans are doing. I have NEVER used AMD overdrive.


What NZXT case exactly? I have a feeling that "whatever those fans are doing" probably isn't good enough. And have you checked the mount and TIM application yet?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> 1.34 volts is quite low as many motherboards default to 1.4 volts. That is actually an undervolt in this case.
> 
> Fans are dominant for cooling, then heat pipes, then fins. The Silver Arrow with 8 heat pipes has the most powerful fans and the least finning. It is also extremely light.
> 
> It is in a stock NZXT case so it is doing whatever those 3 case fans are doing. I have NEVER used AMD overdrive.


While fans are a key part of coolers and cooling, they are not dominant in my way of thinking. While they are the only component in a cooler we can change, they are simply one part of the combination. I'm not going into fin size, thicknes, count or spacing; how they are attached to heatpipes or how heatpipes are attached to base differenceslor the different heatpipe wicking or other possible heatpipe differences. , . .
Silver Arrow had 4x 8mm heatpipes & 2x 140mm 1300rpm fans
Silver Arrow *SB-E & IB-E* have 8x 6mm heatpipes & 2x 140mm 1300rpm fans (2x 140mm 2500rpm on Extreme model)
PH-TC14PE has 5x 8mm heatpipes & 2x 149nmm 1300rpm fans
NH-D15 has 6x 6mm heatpipes. & 2x 1500rpm fans
NH-D15s has 6x 6mm heatpipes. & 1x1500rpm fan
NH-D14 has 6x 6mm heatpipes & 120 / 140mm 1200 / 1300mm fans.
Alpenfohn Olymp has 6x 6mm heatpipes. 2x 1400rpm fans
TRUE Spirit 140 Power has 6x 8mm heatpipes & 1x 1300rpm fan
TRUE Spirit 140 Rev. A has 6x 6mm heatpipes & 1x 1400rpom fan
Scythe Fuma has 6x 6mm heatpipes & 2x 120mm 1400rpm fans
HE01 has 6x 6mm heatpipes and a single 140mm 2000rpm fan
All have similar cooling ability with stock fans.

And that is by no means a complete list of coolers with similar abilities.

Please get a grip mate. Cryorig H7 cooler is not the problem. While it is not in the same league as above list, it is a very good cooler (if not the best) in it's own group.


----------



## miklkit

There have been motherboards that claim they are good enough for FX. Then they catch on fire, fail quietly after a month taking the cpu with it, or warp and become useless from the heat generated from their under engineered components.

This is another example of manufacturers disrespecting FX by making something that obviously does not fit. It is very much a"Let the buyer beware." issue and I have a zero tolerance attitude towards it.

It's not just this cooler as Deepcool does it too. Then there is the bogus Phanteks mounts. This is unacceptable.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> There have been motherboards that claim they are good enough for FX. Then they catch on fire, fail quietly after a month taking the cpu with it, or warp and become useless from the heat generated from their under engineered components.
> 
> This is another example of manufacturers disrespecting FX by making something that obviously does not fit. It is very much a"Let the buyer beware." issue and I have a zero tolerance attitude towards it.
> 
> It's not just this cooler as Deepcool does it too. Then there is the bogus Phanteks mounts. This is unacceptable.


Personally, I think the biggest piece of disrespect here was AMD releasing the 9590. It's an ill conceived CPU with a host of issues that consumers and manufacturers should not have to deal with. They did it in a last ditch effort to try to keep up with Intel in the uninformed consumer's eye. They knew it would toast MBs. They knew it was impossible to cool properly at a reasonable cost, and they knew that MB manufacturers weren't going to spend a ton on developing MBs for a single CPU that wouldn't sell at high volumes. But, they released it anyway.

If you want to "blame" someone who said "let the buyer beware", the fault would lie with the company that was desperate to get cash in the door at any price....and we all know who that was (and still is).

And how is the Cryorig owner's thread degenerating into an AMD thread?

BTW - if you want to point out a company "disrespecting" AMD, take a look at the Zerotherm ZT-10D. It claims to be AMD compatible, and comes with an AMD mounting kit.....that is actually physically impossible to install because the heatpipes block the screws. Doing a review of that cooler is actually what prompted me to set up the 870 rig that was in my closet.....which, in turn, moved me off team red within about five minutes of use.


----------



## Amilitos

I am looking to buy H5 Universal but i am not sure if my mobo can fit it, I have Msi H81m-p33 and i am afraid it may bock my Pci-e x16 slot.

If anyone know if it will fit or not would be really helpful!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amilitos*
> 
> I am looking to buy H5 Universal but i am not sure if my mobo can fit it, I have Msi H81m-p33 and i am afraid it may bock my Pci-e x16 slot.
> 
> If anyone know if it will fit or not would be really helpful!


Go with the H7 as it is smaller and cheaper. There is also the H7 tester you can print up too see how it will fit.
http://www.cryorig.com/h7_us.php


----------



## Amilitos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Go with the H7 as it is smaller and cheaper. There is also the H7 tester you can print up too see how it will fit.
> http://www.cryorig.com/h7_us.php


The only reason i didn't bought the H7 it is because the price difference is only 3E in my country for some reason.

I tried that method with H5 Universal (but because i didn't want to remove my Cpu fan my results aren't so accurate), it was rly close to block my Pci-e x16 slot, so close that i don't know if it will fit or not!

I guess i can go with H7 as you told, so i don't have to risk and have almost the same performance.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amilitos*
> 
> I am looking to buy H5 Universal but i am not sure if my mobo can fit it, I have Msi H81m-p33 and i am afraid it may bock my Pci-e x16 slot.
> 
> If anyone know if it will fit or not would be really helpful!


A quick look at your motherboard shows about 75mm from center CPU to near side of PCIe socket and 51mm to near side of RAM socket. Assuming the back your graphics card does not protrude farther toward CPU then the socket it is in you should be able to use the H5. Here are drawings of both H5 and H7


----------



## jopy

just gotten this cryorig H5







really pleased with it


----------



## Amilitos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> A quick look at your motherboard shows about 75mm from center CPU to near side of PCIe socket and 51mm to near side of RAM socket. Assuming the back your graphics card does not protrude farther toward CPU then the socket it is in you should be able to use the H5. Here are drawings of both H5 and H7


If this is true i am really happy because of the H5 price is rly nice! Just one question, where you get the info of the Cpu-Pcie dstance?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amilitos*
> 
> If this is true i am really happy because of the H5 price is rly nice! Just one question, where you get the info of the Cpu-Pcie dstance?


I download a top view of motherboard and scale the distances based on the 75mm spacing of cooler mounitng holes. On yours that is between 73.6mm to near side of socket and 76mm to near side of PCIe socket slot.

So while it's not a good as actually having the motherboard to measure, it's pretty accurate. The H5 is 143mm wide to the outsides of it's plastic top and bottom covers, so sides of actual cooler are a few mm less. The only thing that is as wide is the fan clip, and if needed you could insulate the one on GPU side. I just re-measured my H5 Universal cooler and it is 144 total so 72mm from center to edge of fan clip. Keep in mind the Universal (as in dimensional drawing) has the 13mm thick fan, not the 25mm thick one. H5 Ultimate is 57.2mm center CPU to front of fan.


What GPU are you using?


----------



## Damasterjj

After more than 1 month I have re-pasted & remounted H7 with AS5 and Cryorig stock paste and I am still getting high temps. I will be getting Noctua D15S depending on how many fan i use i should only see 3.6C to 5.6C temperature improvement if I get anything more or god forbid 20C difference then there is definitely something wrong with H7. I think I have an idea but I don't want to speculate right now. I'll wait until D15S arrives

BTW, apparently I am not the only one having issue with H7


----------



## jopy

Mx4 or cp9 for h5 ?


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> 6700K with 4.5 OC with prime 95 28.7 small FFT. seems impossible without hitting 80+C? Right now I can do 4.4 with same test below 80C.
> 
> do you think adding a second fan will help?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> After more than 1 month I have re-pasted & remounted H7 with AS5 and Cryorig stock paste and I am still getting high temps. I will be getting Noctua D15S depending on how many fan i use i should only see 3.6C to 5.6C temperature improvement if I get anything more or god forbid 20C difference then there is definitely something wrong with H7. I think I have an idea but I don't want to speculate right now. I'll wait until D15S arrives
> 
> BTW, apparently I am not the only one having issue with H7


Your temperatures sound pretty reasonable to me for Prime 95 with a Skylake CPU at that level of overclock. What voltage are you using? I suspect that you are overestimating the H7, its the baby of the Cryorig towers, and 80C isnt all that bad at all.

According to TPU the NHD15 S should be around 10c better then the H7 on an open bench, it should be it has a lot more surface area and twice the heatpipes. Its in a different class of cooler, like the R1 Ultimate and Universal.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> Mx4 or cp9 for h5 ?


Ive used both, MX4 spreads a bit easier but the temps are the same as CP9.


----------



## jopy

Okay thanks, ill use mx4, still have half a tube left from 2 years back lol.

I prefera the easier way


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> Okay thanks, ill use mx4, still have half a tube left from 2 years back lol.
> 
> I prefera the easier way


CP9 spreads just fine under the weight of the cooler as well, but it really didnt make much difference for me with either paste. GL


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> After more than 1 month I have re-pasted & remounted H7 with AS5 and Cryorig stock paste and I am still getting high temps. I will be getting Noctua D15S depending on how many fan i use i should only see 3.6C to 5.6C temperature improvement if I get anything more or god forbid 20C difference then there is definitely something wrong with H7. I think I have an idea but I don't want to speculate right now. I'll wait until D15S arrives
> 
> BTW, apparently I am not the only one having issue with H7


Without knowing the air temp going into the cooler there is really no way to know if it is a CPU to cooler problem, a cooler problem or a case airflow problem. Typically the room air temp is 8-20+c cooler than component intake air temp. 3-5c is very good. If your cooler intake air temp is 20c warmer than your room air, your CPU is running about 15c hotter than it will if you optimize your case airflow and lower the cooler intake air temp to 5c above room temp.

No idea where you get the idea the D15S is only 3.6-5.6c better than H7. Could you explain and/or give us a link to this?


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> CP9 spreads just fine under the weight of the cooler as well, but it really didnt make much difference for me with either paste. GL


done reapplying and mounting the H5, all around average dropped 3C for me using mx4,

maybe only becos i screwed up the first time, im new to cryorig mounting method lolol







.
couldn't quite catch the 2 mounting screw to the mounting plate and messed up the tim on the cpu.
and didnt screw it properly


----------



## jopy

anyone have any insight if this layout for air cooling is alright or

turning the cpu cooler 90degree clockwise and adding another top rear exhuast would improve anything at all?

the top will be covered with a fitting cover with mesh.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> anyone have any insight if this layout for air cooling is alright or
> 
> turning the cpu cooler 90degree clockwise and adding another top rear exhuast would improve anything at all?
> 
> the top will be covered with a fitting cover with mesh.


While you are using a Cryorig cooler, your questions are not about the cooler, but about case airflow. Could you start a thread with all details of your rig. Case, fans, fan speeds, etc?


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> While you are using a Cryorig cooler, your questions are not about the cooler, but about case airflow. Could you start a thread with all details of your rig. Case, fans, fan speeds, etc?


:*( i just wants to know if turning it clockwise 90degree would improve cpu temp at all


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> :*( i just wants to know if turning it clockwise 90degree would improve cpu temp at all


:*( I just wants you to start a thread where we can discuss your cooling, that's all.


----------



## jopy

hokay, maybe tomorrow... tired of tweaking for now... needs some dark soul3 for now


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No idea where you get the idea the D15S is only 3.6-5.6c better than H7. Could you explain and/or give us a link to this?


That actually sounds about right in a "while gaming with a CPU light game" or web browsing on a stock Pentium in a well ventilated case.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That actually sounds about right in a "while gaming with a CPU light game" or web browsing on a stock Pentium in a well ventilated case.


Yeah, .. key words being '*light load'* on CPU
PS: Sometimes I think you stalk me, other times I know you do.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yeah, .. key words being '*light load'* on CPU
> PS: Sometimes I think you stalk me, other times I know you do.


I think the bigger key would be a very low TDP CPU. Far less difference in temps when there is less heat to remove.


----------



## Damasterjj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> Your temperatures sound pretty reasonable to me for Prime 95 with a Skylake CPU at that level of overclock. What voltage are you using? I suspect that you are overestimating the H7, its the baby of the Cryorig towers, and 80C isnt all that bad at all.
> 
> According to TPU the NHD15 S should be around 10c better then the H7 on an open bench, it should be it has a lot more surface area and twice the heatpipes. Its in a different class of cooler, like the R1 Ultimate and Universal.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Without knowing the air temp going into the cooler there is really no way to know if it is a CPU to cooler problem, a cooler problem or a case airflow problem. Typically the room air temp is 8-20+c cooler than component intake air temp. 3-5c is very good. If your cooler intake air temp is 20c warmer than your room air, your CPU is running about 15c hotter than it will if you optimize your case airflow and lower the cooler intake air temp to 5c above room temp.
> 
> No idea where you get the idea the D15S is only 3.6-5.6c better than H7. Could you explain and/or give us a link to this?


My current re-paste/remount about a week old Can't do 4.5ghz anymore my temperature got worse had to back down to stock 6700K 4/4.2ghz @ 1.2Volts. which is rated at 95 TDP.. I think there is something wrong with the mounting system and Its applying uneven pressure at some corners. Also last time ive remounted, I saw a small dent at the bottom of H7 from cpu ihs. While the CPU IHS has no markings. Ive narrow it down to either mounting system is not applying the same pressure on all corners or bottom part of H7 is a softer metal and its caving in resulting into uneven pressure.

I know H7 gets good reviews and everything but Im sure none of them test the H7 past 1 day.

CPU idle temp is around 19C, so I know its not hot inside the case. I even tried open case and it makes no difference. When I start prime 95 at 4.5ghz. @ 1.35v Temperature goes from 19c to 90c in 1 second so i stop immediately. But right now temps are stable at stock 4.2

source of H7 & D15 temperature difference
http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/6958/cryorig-h7-cpu-cooler-review/index6.html


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> My current re-paste/remount about a week old Can't do 4.5ghz anymore my temperature got worse had to back down to stock 6700K 4/4.2ghz @ 1.2Volts. which is rated at 95 TDP.. I think there is something wrong with the mounting system and Its applying uneven pressure at some corners. Also last time ive remounted, I saw a small dent at the bottom of H7 from cpu ihs. While the CPU IHS has no markings. Ive narrow it down to either mounting system is not applying the same pressure on all corners or bottom part of H7 is a softer metal and its caving in.
> 
> I know H7 gets good reviews and everything but Im sure none of them test the H7 past 1 day.
> 
> CPU idle temp is around 19C, so I know its not hot inside the case. I even tried open case and it makes no difference. When I start prime 95 at 4.5ghz. @ 1.35v Temperature goes from 19c to 90c in 1 second so i stop immediately. But right now temps are stable at stock 4.2
> 
> source
> http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/6958/cryorig-h7-cpu-cooler-review/index6.html


There could be a couple of things going on here.

First, use a test that is more realistic and doesn't use AVX. All P95 after v26.6 use AVX, which will cause tremendous voltage fluctuations on most MBs resulting in artificially high temps. Try running OCCT, AIDA64 (no AVX) or x264 for a more accurate representation of your temps.

If you are still getting temps like that in more compatible tests, it would seem that your seating is bad. Seemingly normal idle temps that are disproportionate under load typically indicate a bad seating or improper TIM spread.

Also, not sure about this "dent". Logic would dictate that your wafer would crack long before a dent was made in the cooler.


----------



## Damasterjj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There could be a couple of things going on here.
> 
> First, use a test that is more realistic and doesn't use AVX. All P95 after v26.6 use AVX, which will cause tremendous voltage fluctuations on most MBs resulting in artificially high temps. Try running OCCT, AIDA64 (no AVX) or x264 for a more accurate representation of your temps.
> 
> If you are still getting temps like that in more compatible tests, it would seem that your seating is bad. Seemingly normal idle temps that are disproportionate under load typically indicate a bad seating or improper TIM spread.
> 
> Also, not sure about this "dent". Logic would dictate that your wafer would crack long before a dent was made in the cooler.


like i said I gave H7 1 plus months and re pasted and reseated like 10 times. last time i re pasted temps were ok which mean seating was fine but it got worse after one week. you are right cpu should crack long before the heat sink gets a dent. unless heatsink is a softer metal. think about it why would heat sink gets dent and not the ihs? IHS literally looks brand new!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> like i said I gave H7 1 plus months and re pasted and reseated like 10 times. last time i re pasted temps were ok which mean seating was fine but it got worse after one week. you are right cpu should crack long before the heat sink gets a dent. unless heatsink is a softer metal. think about it why would heat sink gets dent and not the ihs? IHS literally looks brand new!


That is really odd. What TIM are you using? And do you keep using the same tube?


----------



## Damasterjj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That is really odd. What TIM are you using? And do you keep using the same tube?


Originally I was using AS5 but since it has 8 days cure time I couldn't tell how stable temperature. I switch CP7 temps were ok right away but I notice the temperature degrade

Maybe I'm over exaggerating the dent I saw but I'll take a picture once i receive the a new heatsink


----------



## doyll

@ciarlatano, Damasterjj is running 6700K @ 4.5GHz http://www.overclock.net/t/1461923/cryorig-fan-cooler-club-r1-ult-r1-uni-c1-h5-xf140-xt140/2400_20#post_25287725 in a case with 2x 120mm fans @ 1000-1100rpm (1x intake and 1x exhaust). http://www.overclock.net/t/1461923/cryorig-fan-cooler-club-r1-ult-r1-uni-c1-h5-xf140-xt140/2420_20#post_25287832 With no idea what the cooler intake air temp is.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> My current re-paste/remount about a week old Can't do 4.5ghz anymore my temperature got worse had to back down to stock 6700K 4/4.2ghz @ 1.2Volts. which is rated at 95 TDP.. I think there is something wrong with the mounting system and Its applying uneven pressure at some corners. Also last time ive remounted, I saw a small dent at the bottom of H7 from cpu ihs. While the CPU IHS has no markings. Ive narrow it down to either mounting system is not applying the same pressure on all corners or bottom part of H7 is a softer metal and its caving in resulting into uneven pressure.
> 
> I know H7 gets good reviews and everything but Im sure none of them test the H7 past 1 day.
> 
> CPU idle temp is around 19C, so I know its not hot inside the case. I even tried open case and it makes no difference. When I start prime 95 at 4.5ghz. @ 1.35v Temperature goes from 19c to 90c in 1 second so i stop immediately. But right now temps are stable at stock 4.2
> 
> source of H7 & D15 temperature difference
> http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/6958/cryorig-h7-cpu-cooler-review/index6.html


I ran my H7 on 6700K for over a month with no trouble at all. Idled in high 20s and peaked in low 60s. At full load the fan was not super quiet, but not bad either. Room is 21-23c and I monitor cooler intake air temp which was 23-26c in a Evolv ATX with 2x intake and 1x exhasut 140mm PH-F140SP fans (back is almost all vented) and fan speed is controlled by CPU temp .. This means case airflow is always more than cooler airflow. I'm pretty sure this is much better airflow than your case with single 120mm intake and exhaust fans. You also don't know what your cooler intake air temp is. I asked you several times.


----------



## Damasterjj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I ran my H7 on 6700K for over a month with no trouble at all. Idled in high 20s and peaked in low 60s. At full load the fan was not super quiet, but not bad either. Room is 21-23c and I monitor cooler intake air temp which was 23-26c in a Evolv ATX with 2x intake and 1x exhasut 140mm PH-F140SP fans (back is almost all vented) and fan speed is controlled by CPU temp .. This means case airflow is always more than cooler airflow. I'm pretty sure this is much better airflow than your case with single 120mm intake and exhaust fans. You also don't know what your cooler intake air temp is. I asked you several times.


I'd be happy to tell you the intake temp. but I'm sorry but I have no instrument to measure the intake. I can tell you my cpu idle more or less 20C in hwinfo and hwmonitor


----------



## Techbyte

Who here has the Cryorig M9i specifically? I have a question about installation.

So, when you placed the M9i onto your CPU and tightened the two mounting bolts, did you tighten them as far as they would go or just snug them up?

I placed the cooler onto my CPU and tightened the two mounting bolts finger tight, so they were nice and snug. I then gave each bolt two full turns for good measure. There is a decent amount of thread left and they could be screwed in further. However, when I started to tighten it further it just seemed like it was "too" tight and the mounting hardware brackets that the bolts screw into started to "bow".

I ended up mounting the cooler 3 times, observing thermal compound spread each time. All 3 times I used a dab in the center of the CPU smaller than a pea but larger than a grain of rice.

All the way tight: My iTX motherboard looked like it was slightly "bowing", the mounting hardware brackets were slightly "bowing", and the thermal compound got pushed out of each edge of the CPU IHS a little bit.

Finger tight, then two full turns: My iTX motherboard didn't appear to be "bowing", the mounting hardware didn't appear to be "bowing", and the thermal compound spread looked perfect.

Repeated and left it.

Obviously my second mounting "method" is ideal in my situation and I will leave it at that. I am just curious if anyone else thought that tightening the mounting bolts all the way was just too much / too tight.

*This may sound like a stupid question, but this is the first CPU cooler I have ever purchased that didn't have "idiot proof" mounting hardware. By "idiot proof" I mean either bolts with springs and/or bolts that were extremely precise with directions directly stating to tighten them "all the way" or "until stopped"

Just looking for others input on this.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techbyte*
> 
> Who here has the Cryorig M9i specifically? I have a question about installation.
> 
> So, when you placed the M9i onto your CPU and tightened the two mounting bolts, did you tighten them as far as they would go or just snug them up?
> 
> I placed the cooler onto my CPU and tightened the two mounting bolts finger tight, so they were nice and snug. I then gave each bolt two full turns for good measure. There is a decent amount of thread left and they could be screwed in further. However, when I started to tighten it further it just seemed like it was "too" tight and the mounting hardware brackets that the bolts screw into started to "bow".
> 
> I ended up mounting the cooler 3 times, observing thermal compound spread each time. All 3 times I used a dab in the center of the CPU smaller than a pea but larger than a grain of rice.
> 
> All the way tight: My iTX motherboard looked like it was slightly "bowing", the mounting hardware brackets were slightly "bowing", and the thermal compound got pushed out of each edge of the CPU IHS a little bit.
> 
> Finger tight, then two full turns: My iTX motherboard didn't appear to be "bowing", the mounting hardware didn't appear to be "bowing", and the thermal compound spread looked perfect.
> 
> Repeated and left it.
> 
> Obviously my second mounting "method" is ideal in my situation and I will leave it at that. I am just curious if anyone else thought that tightening the mounting bolts all the way was just too much / too tight.
> 
> *This may sound like a stupid question, but this is the first CPU cooler I have ever purchased that didn't have "idiot proof" mounting hardware. By "idiot proof" I mean either bolts with springs and/or bolts that were extremely precise with directions directly stating to tighten them "all the way" or "until stopped"
> 
> Just looking for others input on this.


I built a 6700k with M9i and did not notice any bow in motherboard. I use a dob in center smaller than a grain of rice. None pushes out sides of IHS, but when removed TIM is just reaching the sides of IHS.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techbyte*
> 
> Who here has the Cryorig M9i specifically? I have a question about installation.
> 
> So, when you placed the M9i onto your CPU and tightened the two mounting bolts, did you tighten them as far as they would go or just snug them up?


I have an M9i in my pc. I tightened it until I felt some resistance.


----------



## Techbyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I built a 6700k with M9i and did not notice any bow in motherboard. I use a dob in center smaller than a grain of rice. None pushes out sides of IHS, but when removed TIM is just reaching the sides of IHS.


Do you remember if you tightened the bolts all the way down? That would mean that the mounting points that the bolts go through and into would be touching. Looking between the heatsink and mounting brackets you would see no threads. I wonder if my Msi board has a thicker "back plate". As in, the metal plate under the CPU socket.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techbyte*
> 
> Do you remember if you tightened the bolts all the way down? That would mean that the mounting points that the bolts go through and into would be touching. Looking between the heatsink and mounting brackets you would see no threads. I wonder if my Msi board has a thicker "back plate". As in, the metal plate under the CPU socket.


Yes, I tightened them up tight. Which MSI board do you have? I had it on Z170 Mortar and older GA-X58A-UD5.


----------



## Techbyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yes, I tightened them up tight. Which MSI board do you have? I had it on Z170 Mortar and older GA-X58A-UD5.


I have the Msi H110i Pro. It is an iTX motherboard so probably more prone to "bowing"


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techbyte*
> 
> I have the Msi H110i Pro. It is an iTX motherboard so probably more prone to "bowing"


I don't think so.


----------



## Damasterjj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> After more than 1 month I have re-pasted & remounted H7 with AS5 and Cryorig stock paste and I am still getting high temps. I will be getting Noctua D15S depending on how many fan i use i should only see 3.6C to 5.6C temperature improvement if I get anything more or god forbid 20C difference then there is definitely something wrong with H7. I think I have an idea but I don't want to speculate right now. I'll wait until D15S arrives
> 
> BTW, apparently I am not the only one having issue with H7


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> My current re-paste/remount about a week old Can't do 4.5ghz anymore my temperature got worse had to back down to stock 6700K 4/4.2ghz @ 1.2Volts. which is rated at 95 TDP.. I think there is something wrong with the mounting system and Its applying uneven pressure at some corners. Also last time ive remounted, I saw a small dent at the bottom of H7 from cpu ihs. While the CPU IHS has no markings. Ive narrow it down to either mounting system is not applying the same pressure on all corners or bottom part of H7 is a softer metal and its caving in resulting into uneven pressure.
> 
> I know H7 gets good reviews and everything but Im sure none of them test the H7 past 1 day.
> 
> CPU idle temp is around 19C, so I know its not hot inside the case. I even tried open case and it makes no difference. When I start prime 95 at 4.5ghz. @ 1.35v Temperature goes from 19c to 90c in 1 second so i stop immediately. But right now temps are stable at stock 4.2
> 
> source of H7 & D15 temperature difference
> http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/6958/cryorig-h7-cpu-cooler-review/index6.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> like i said I gave H7 1 plus months and re pasted and reseated like 10 times. last time i re pasted temps were ok which mean seating was fine but it got worse after one week. you are right cpu should crack long before the heat sink gets a dent. unless heatsink is a softer metal. think about it why would heat sink gets dent and not the ihs? IHS literally looks brand new!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> Originally I was using AS5 but since it has 8 days cure time I couldn't tell how stable temperature. I switch CP7 temps were ok right away but I notice the temperature degrade
> 
> Maybe I'm over exaggerating the dent I saw but I'll take a picture once i receive the a new heatsink


Yes I am quoting myself so that I don't have to explain everything again.

OK maybe a dent is exaggerating a bit anyway as you can there is visible marking on one of the corners but none in other corners. This led me to believe that H7 have a tendency to tilt on one of the corners resulting into uneven pressure particularly in the button right. (in the picture its the upper right)

I know D15S is in a different class of cooler but temperature is definitely better and more stable the very FIRST TIME I installed it. I'm not gonna say the temperature difference because that would be advertising Noctua. If it makes you feel better even hyper 212 evo gave me better temps than H7. No more 19C to 90C after 1 second of starting prime 95 on H7


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I am quoting myself so that I don't have to explain everything again.
> 
> OK maybe a dent is exaggerating a bit anyway as you can there is visible marking on one of the corners but none in other corners. This led me to believe that H7 have a tendency to tilt on one of the corners resulting into uneven pressure particularly in the button right. (in the picture its the upper right)
> 
> 
> I know D15S is in a different class of cooler but temperature is definitely better and more stable the very FIRST TIME I installed it. I'm not gonna say the temperature difference because that would be advertising Noctua. If it makes you feel better even hyper 212 evo gave me better temps than H7. No more 19C to 90C after 1 second of starting prime 95 on H7
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The only marks I see on H7 look self-inflicted .. most likely by you .. probably by tightening one side of mount before the others.

Of course D15S will cool better, but not giving it's temps while saying 212 is bette is hypocritical. Saying 212 is better than H7 is utter nonsense and shows a lack of credibility. All reviews I've looked at show H7 being several degrees cooler than 212 .

If you believe 212 is better, I have sea side villa in the Sahara desert you need to buy.


----------



## Kutalion

Tested both 212 evo and 212x vs H7, H7 won even tho it has fewer heatpipes.
So what you're saying isnt realistic. As far as the dent, it might be your cpu IHS not being even. Saw that tons of times.


----------



## Damasterjj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The only marks I see on H7 look self-inflicted .. most likely by you .. probably by tightening one side of mount before the others.
> 
> Of course D15S will cool better, but not giving it's temps while saying 212 is bette is hypocritical. Saying 212 is better than H7 is utter nonsense and shows a lack of credibility. All reviews I've looked at show H7 being several degrees cooler than 212 .
> 
> If you believe 212 is better, I have sea side villa in the Sahara desert you need to buy.


Like I said I have re pasted and reseated this thing like 10 times all gave me terrible. D15S & evo 212 gave more stable the FIRST time I installed it. Only H7 gave me 19C to 90C temperature increse after 1 second after starting prime 95 small fft.

you seem to ignore the idea my H7 could be defective. how long has cryorig been around in the heatsink business? Even companies like toyota, intel, nvidia, and amd whos been around in there particular field in like ages still makes mistake once in a while.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Tested both 212 evo and 212x vs H7, H7 won even tho it has fewer heatpipes.
> So what you're saying isnt realistic. As far as the dent, it might be your cpu IHS not being even. Saw that tons of times.


I've only inspected the H7 but not the IHS you could be on to something. I should have kept evo 212, H7 is only a couple of degrees apart not worth the upgrade in my opinion. Also heatsink seating could pretty much nullify the H7 advantage.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> Like I said I have re pasted and reseated this thing like 10 times all gave me terrible. D15S & evo 212 gave more stable the FIRST time I installed it. Only H7 gave me 19C to 90C temperature increse after 1 second after starting prime 95 small fft.
> 
> you seem to ignore the idea my H7 could be defective. how long has cryorig been around in the heatsink business? Even companies like toyota, intel, nvidia, and amd whos been around in there particular field in like ages still makes mistake once in a while.
> I've only inspected the H7 but not the IHS you could be on to something. I should have kept evo 212, H7 is only a couple of degrees apart not worth the upgrade in my opinion. Also heatsink seating could pretty much nullify the H7 advantage.


Your H7 clearly had an issue. It was likely as simple as a slight bend in one of the mounting arms.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> Like I said I have re pasted and reseated this thing like 10 times all gave me terrible. D15S & evo 212 gave more stable the FIRST time I installed it. Only H7 gave me 19C to 90C temperature increse after 1 second after starting prime 95 small fft.
> 
> you seem to ignore the idea my H7 could be defective. how long has cryorig been around in the heatsink business? Even companies like toyota, intel, nvidia, and amd whos been around in there particular field in like ages still makes mistake once in a while.
> 
> I've only inspected the H7 but not the IHS you could be on to something. I should have kept evo 212, H7 is only a couple of degrees apart not worth the upgrade in my opinion. Also heatsink seating could pretty much nullify the H7 advantage.


The temperature shooting up indicated a bad mount indeed.

Its unlikely, but your H7 could indeed be defective. You could just send it back for a replacement? And Cryorig is a fairly new company, but iirc, its founded by a number of very experienced people in the business.

The markings on your H7 might indicate that your IHS might be too concave, which if you want too keep your warranty, you can't do much about. its also possible that the block on the H7 is too concave, or maybe both. Its an unlikely issue, but I guess it possible.
Edit: Its more likely an issue with the mount since the marking seem to be spreading from one corner.

212 EVO to H7 is indeed not much of an upgrade from a performance perspective, although aesthetics are much better on the H7 imo. But if anyone were to have to buy a cooler today, and had a budget around $/€30 the H7 would be the better choice.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> Like I said I have re pasted and reseated this thing like 10 times all gave me terrible. D15S & evo 212 gave more stable the FIRST time I installed it. Only H7 gave me 19C to 90C temperature increse after 1 second after starting prime 95 small fft.
> 
> you seem to ignore the idea my H7 could be defective. how long has cryorig been around in the heatsink business? Even companies like toyota, intel, nvidia, and amd whos been around in there particular field in like ages still makes mistake once in a while.


I do not ignore the fact you may have a defective H7 or have a bent mount. Nor do I ignore the fact you may have mounted it incorrectly every time you mounted it.

Cryorig did not make a mistake with the H7. A manufacturing error is quality control issue, not a mistake in design. And this is all assuming your CPU and your mounting procedure are not the problem.

The biggest problem I have with you is your extreme attitude against Cryorig when you have no evidence they did anything wrong.
What trips my buttons is your claiming the 212 is better a better cooler without first getting your H7 replaced and re-testing it.
I don't remember you saying anything about contacting Cryorig and asking for help with your problems. But I do remember you going off on a tangent complaining about how bad their cooler is and making claims that 212 is better than H7. Now you mount up a D15S and don't post it's performance "because that would be advertising Noctua" out of one side of your mouth after all the bad mouthing you disned at Cryorig and bogus claims 212 is a better cooler. Makes me wonder just how much 'better' your new D15S is performing.


----------



## Damasterjj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Your H7 clearly had an issue. It was likely as simple as a slight bend in one of the mounting arms.


its possible, but I'm pretty much done with h7
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> The temperature shooting up indicated a bad mount indeed.
> 
> Its unlikely, but your H7 could indeed be defective. You could just send it back for a replacement? And Cryorig is a fairly new company, but iirc, its founded by a number of very experienced people in the business.
> 
> The markings on your H7 might indicate that your IHS might be too concave, which if you want too keep your warranty, you can't do much about. its also possible that the block on the H7 is too concave, or maybe both. Its an unlikely issue, but I guess it possible.
> Edit: Its more likely an issue with the mount since the marking seem to be spreading from one corner.
> 
> 212 EVO to H7 is indeed not much of an upgrade from a performance perspective, although aesthetics are much better on the H7 imo. But if anyone were to have to buy a cooler today, and had a budget around $/€30 the H7 would be the better choice.


I emailed cryorig for RMA no response yet, i read RMA process and I have to pay for shipping. depending on shipping cost it may not be worth it for a 35 cooler. Considering I can buy evo 212 for $20 after rebate on newegg right now.

with 10 reseat on H7 I have exhuated all possible hardware issue on my setup. considering both d15s & evo 212 gave me better temps every single time the first time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I do not ignore the fact you may have a defective H7 or have a bent mount. Nor do I ignore the fact you may have mounted it incorrectly every time you mounted it.
> 
> Cryorig did not make a mistake with the H7. A manufacturing error is quality control issue, not a mistake in design. And this is all assuming your CPU and your mounting procedure are not the problem.
> 
> The biggest problem I have with you is your extreme attitude against Cryorig when you have no evidence they did anything wrong.
> What trips my buttons is your claiming the 212 is better a better cooler without first getting your H7 replaced and re-testing it.
> I don't remember you saying anything about contacting Cryorig and asking for help with your problems. But I do remember you going off on a tangent complaining about how bad their cooler is and making claims that 212 is better than H7. Now you mount up a D15S and don't post it's performance "because that would be advertising Noctua" out of one side of your mouth after all the bad mouthing you disned at Cryorig and bogus claims 212 is a better cooler. Makes me wonder just how much 'better' your new D15S is performing.


Hey man this is the product I receive and this is what I found out. why would I say h7 is better when the evo gave me better temps after just 1 install vs 10 on the h7. its not like i didn't give h7 a chance.

I see 2 issues one manufacturing error is part of quality control and 2 having a reliable & consistent mounting system is also important after 10 plus install and I didn't get it right. so who is to blame me or the mounting system?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> Hey man this is the product I receive and this is what I found out. why would I say h7 is better when the evo gave me better temps after just 1 install vs 10 on the h7. its not like i didn't give h7 a chance.
> 
> I see 2 issues one manufacturing error is part of quality control and 2 having a reliable & consistent mounting system is also important after 10 plus install and I didn't get it right. so who is to blame me or the mounting system?


I watch several threads and you are one of a very few who have had any kind of problems with Cryorig products. A couple people snapped their mount screws, but that was because they tried tightening them when they were already tight. I know of one who had bad threads on one of the mounting screws. Each time Cryorig promptly resolved the problems with replacement parts sent out. They didn't even have to send in the broken or damaged parts. One of them I sent the guy replacement screws and Cryorig sent me a replacement kit. .

Most people would email Cryorgi bout the problem rather than act like a spoiled 3 year old having a hissy fit and throwing all their toys out of their pram.

Try emailing Cryorig here:
http://www.cryorig.com/contact_us.php

Include the pics of your problem and be nice. Include a photocopy of your purchace invoice. It would not surprise me if they sent you a replacement once you pro


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> I emailed cryorig for RMA no response yet, i read RMA process and I have to pay for shipping. depending on shipping cost it may not be worth it for a 35 cooler. Considering I can buy evo 212 for $20 after rebate on newegg right now.


Why not contact your retailer first? Most half decent ones will pay for the return costs.


----------



## Damasterjj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I watch several threads and you are one of a very few who have had any kind of problems with Cryorig products. A couple people snapped their mount screws, but that was because they tried tightening them when they were already tight. I know of one who had bad threads on one of the mounting screws. Each time Cryorig promptly resolved the problems with replacement parts sent out. They didn't even have to send in the broken or damaged parts. One of them I sent the guy replacement screws and Cryorig sent me a replacement kit. .
> 
> Most people would email Cryorgi bout the problem rather than act like a spoiled 3 year old having a hissy fit and throwing all their toys out of their pram.
> 
> Try emailing Cryorig here:
> http://www.cryorig.com/contact_us.php
> 
> Include the pics of your problem and be nice. Include a photocopy of your purchace invoice. It would not surprise me if they sent you a replacement once you pro


tbanks man, I emailed them already waiting for reply. Right now I'm using the pwm fan as case fan which is decent easily worth $10. which technically leave me with only $25 loss.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Why not contact your retailer first? Most half decent ones will pay for the return costs.


Purchase date is march 14 2016. so its too late.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> Purchase date is march 14 2016. so its too late.


You should still be able to request a replacement trough your retailer because its malfunctioning, usually its 30 days to return the product for whatever reason followed by whatever warranty they offer, should be at least 6 months. Should be faster than requesting an RMA trough the manufacturer.


----------



## Damasterjj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> You should still be able to request a replacement trough your retailer because its malfunctioning, usually its 30 days to return the product for whatever reason followed by whatever warranty they offer, should be at least 6 months. Should be faster than requesting an RMA trough the manufacturer.


thanks, I'll give it a shot


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> tbanks man, I emailed them already waiting for reply. Right now I'm using the pwm fan as case fan which is decent easily worth $10. which technically leave me with only $25 loss.
> Purchase date is march 14 2016. so its too late.


Purchased March 14, 2016 and you don't complain until July?
Didn't you notice the problem right away?


----------



## Damasterjj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Purchased March 14, 2016 and you don't complain until July?
> Didn't you notice the problem right away?


Like I said I've re seat this thing like 10 times waited days or weeks for thermal paste cure time to see if temps will improve.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> Like I said I've re seat this thing like 10 times waited days or weeks for thermal paste cure time to see if temps will improve.


And ranted, raved, moaned, whined about it, and now after over 16 weeks finally emails Cryorig?
Sorry, but that is way too much noise and way too little effort toward contacting them.


----------



## kishagi

Can I just order directly from Cryorig? Im in Canada and their stuff isnt availible for purchace anywhere. I really need a good heatsink to replace my Noctua D9L in my main build as im putting it in my ITX file server


----------



## Damasterjj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> And ranted, raved, moaned, whined about it, and now after over 16 weeks finally emails Cryorig?
> Sorry, but that is way too much noise and way too little effort toward contacting them.


I expect a product to be working once i receive it. before you will telling me it was user error like bad mounting etc. now you have seem to have conceited that I had a bad product.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kishagi*
> 
> Can I just order directly from Cryorig? Im in Canada and their stuff isnt availible for purchace anywhere. I really need a good heatsink to replace my Noctua D9L in my main build as im putting it in my ITX file server


Yup, just give fire off an email to them and they're pretty responsive about such things


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> I expect a product to be working once i receive it. before you will telling me it was user error like bad mounting etc. now you have seem to have conceited that I had a bad product.


Probably because user error is the problem 99% of the time. You just had bad luck and got an extremely uncommon malfunctionong heatsink.

I can happen with any hardware, even if there's decent QC.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> Like I said I've re seat this thing like 10 times waited days or weeks for thermal paste cure time to see if temps will improve.


You dont need to cure thermal paste unless you used AS5. You see how temps are right away.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> I expect a product to be working once i receive it. before you will telling me it was user error like bad mounting etc. now you have seem to have conceited that I had a bad product.


No one is ever guaranteed a product will work right away. Hence why you have a return policy mostly within 30 days.

I agree all this long wait times and problems is just not a good way to do this.
I suggest to take the H7 and install it in another PC to get a better result. You have a D14, which is not in the same class from H7/Hyper 212. So you can't even compare those.
What were the temps coming from 212, you have not even told us?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> I expect a product to be working once i receive it. before you will telling me it was user error like bad mounting etc. now you have seem to have conceited that I had a bad product.


No, I've never stated it was definitely user error, and I am not now conceding it is a defective cooler. While the chances of it being user error rather than a defective cooler, it is far more often user error then defective cooler.

The fact you never even tried talking to Cryorig until now seems to indicate you also thought it was you rather then the cooler.


----------



## Damasterjj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Probably because user error is the problem 99% of the time. You just had bad luck and got an extremely uncommon malfunctionong heatsink.
> 
> I can happen with any hardware, even if there's decent QC.


Yeah that's ture
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You dont need to cure thermal paste unless you used AS5. You see how temps are right away.
> No one is ever guaranteed a product will work right away. Hence why you have a return policy mostly within 30 days.
> 
> I agree all this long wait times and problems is just not a good way to do this.
> I suggest to take the H7 and install it in another PC to get a better result. You have a D14, which is not in the same class from H7/Hyper 212. So you can't even compare those.
> What were the temps coming from 212, you have not even told us?


I was using AS5 the first few times I mounted so I couldn't tell if the mount was good or not. I switch cryorig paste temps was good right away I'd say better evo 212 but slowly increase after like 1 week. thats when i got 19 C to 90C 1 second after starting prime 95 SFFT. I know that prime 28.7 is very hot for skylake cpu. usually when I have evo 212 it would reach 84C to 87C in about 5 min. I was hoping to get couple of degrees less than evo thats all I wanted.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No, I've never stated it was definitely user error, and I am not now conceding it is a defective cooler. While the chances of it being user error rather than a defective cooler, it is far more often user error then defective cooler.
> 
> The fact you never even tried talking to Cryorig until now seems to indicate you also thought it was you rather then the cooler.


yeah I'm giving cryorig the benefit of a doubt, why do you think I mounted so Manny times.


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> Yeah that's ture
> I was using AS5 the first few times I mounted so I couldn't tell if the mount was good or not. I switch cryorig paste temps was good right away I'd say better evo 212 but slowly increase after like 1 week. thats when i got 19 C to 90C 1 second after starting prime 95 SFFT. I know that prime 28.7 is very hot for skylake cpu. usually when I have evo 212 it would reach 84C to 87C in about 5 min. I was hoping to get couple of degrees less than evo thats all I wanted.
> yeah I'm giving cryorig the benefit of a doubt, why do you think I mounted so Manny times.


Hey everyone, it's Steve here! Me and my team have been following the thread and also of this issue. My initial thoughts was also a bad mount, but I could be wrong. Either way we are more than happy to provide direct assistance through our support team [email protected] We do have rules regarding RMA and returns, but in this case we are genuinely curious of what exactly went wrong with your H7 and will be willing to swap you with a new one. Please private message me or write directly to support mail, I have informed the support team to keep an eye out for your email.

The scratches on the base is actually not the copper base being dented, but the nickle-plating being scratched up by IHS's corners. Like mentioned to have the actual copper being dented would more likely kill the PCB first.

In all, we want our users to be happy with what they bought. To us, it's more important that we can find out why your product is not performing up to par then to define who's fault is it. So it could be a flaw in the mounting (ie. one screw having bad threads) causing a difficult and ultimately poor mount. Or it could be your mainboard's screw holes a fraction of mm too small, it's all possible.

As mentioned heatsinks don't really fail, failure rate is something well under 1%. Most of the time it's fan, mounting pieces (screws and bolts) and of course human error. So don't feel bullied when other users try to first point out the most common points of failure either, it's just logical to start from there.


----------



## VSG

Hey Steve









I'll ask what I bet you have been getting asked for a while now- what's the latest you can share on the Cryorig Z1?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

I'm also curious if the custom coloured shrouds (forgot the name and I'm on mobile atm - oh, it's Custom Mod shrouds) will be available for the c1 cooler as well.

Definitely curious about the Z1 as well!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damasterjj*
> 
> Yeah that's ture
> I was using AS5 the first few times I mounted so I couldn't tell if the mount was good or not. I switch cryorig paste temps was good right away I'd say better evo 212 but slowly increase after like 1 week. thats when i got 19 C to 90C 1 second after starting prime 95 SFFT. I know that prime 28.7 is very hot for skylake cpu. usually when I have evo 212 it would reach 84C to 87C in about 5 min. I was hoping to get couple of degrees less than evo thats all I wanted.
> yeah I'm giving cryorig the benefit of a doubt, why do you think I mounted so Manny times.


Now that Steve-S has up here, you can do as he says. He is one of the key people with Cryorig and as you can see is stepping up to help you.
This is Cryorig customer support in action!








Steve-S and Cryorig have done this time and again when someone had a question or a problem we could not resolve here in the thread .. and wherever else some rare or wierd thing occurs. Talk to Steve-S and he will sort you out.









@Steve-S love your new case designs! But like geggeg said where is the Z1? We are contemplating a protest march soon!!


----------



## Techbyte

I can say that Cryorig is easy to work with from experience, with one caveat. I purchased a Cryorig M9i from Newegg.com. It had what I deemed a defective fan. (ticking quite loudly) Rather than returning it, I contacted Cryorig to see if they would be willing to replace just the fan being there was nothing wrong with the heatsink itself. They were willing to issue me a replacement, but I had to upload a video of it in operation (for proof). This was no big deal to me. Two weeks later, I receive my fan. Now, maybe Amazon and Newegg have spoiled me with 2 day shipping, fast/easy returns, etc, but 2 weeks?
(It shipped from Taiwan)

My question is, how is Cryorig with general RMA? Judging by the fan I received, I assume that they have no warehouse in the USA. Do defective products have to be shipped to Taiwan while the customer waits for it to be received by Cryorig, processed, then have the replacement shipped back to them? I could see this taking up to a month.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techbyte*
> 
> I can say that Cryorig is easy to work with from experience, with one caveat. I purchased a Cryorig M9i from Newegg.com. It had what I deemed a defective fan. (ticking quite loudly) Rather than returning it, I contacted Cryorig to see if they would be willing to replace just the fan being there was nothing wrong with the heatsink itself. They were willing to issue me a replacement, but I had to upload a video of it in operation (for proof). This was no big deal to me. Two weeks later, I receive my fan. Now, maybe Amazon and Newegg have spoiled me with 2 day shipping, fast/easy returns, etc, but 2 weeks?
> (It shipped from Taiwan)
> 
> My question is, how is Cryorig with general RMA? Judging by the fan I received, I assume that they have no warehouse in the USA. Do defective products have to be shipped to Taiwan while the customer waits for it to be received by Cryorig, processed, then have the replacement shipped back to them? I could see this taking up to a month.


I suspect the time involved in your fan replacement was half shipping and currier and have US customs. As an example, my typical time on shipments from Taiwan is 3-5 working days with no customs involved. If custom get involved it's at last 2-4 addtional days, even if they clear it with no added charges, and if they assess any fees it adds an another 3-5 days. Everyone I know in USA seems to have HLS, USC, etc. involved in almost anything entering country, even birthday cards are often opened and checked. I had a fan LNA adapter in small padded envelope cut opened and damaged by them and them marked as shipping damage. It was very obvious it was cut with a razor knife and inspected, but nothing I could do about it.

Short answer, if you have a complaint about international deliveries taking too long, it's the government, not the supplier who is to blame. The last thing a country wants is for it's customer base to start buying from other countries directly. That cuts them out of several tax steps normally happeing on their turf.


----------



## Techbyte

I understand what you are saying. However, it is the company that is choosing to ship internationally. I can't imagine that they don't sell enough products in the USA to open a small warehouse in the USA.

That said, I was asking because if what I posted above is the case, then I will avoid future contact with them during the initial 30 days. It would have been nothing for me to just purchase another M9i and return my initial M9i when I received it.







I was hoping someone who has done an actual RMA with Cryorig to chime in.


----------



## Damasterjj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Hey everyone, it's Steve here! Me and my team have been following the thread and also of this issue. My initial thoughts was also a bad mount, but I could be wrong. Either way we are more than happy to provide direct assistance through our support team [email protected] We do have rules regarding RMA and returns, but in this case we are genuinely curious of what exactly went wrong with your H7 and will be willing to swap you with a new one. Please private message me or write directly to support mail, I have informed the support team to keep an eye out for your email.
> 
> The scratches on the base is actually not the copper base being dented, but the nickle-plating being scratched up by IHS's corners. Like mentioned to have the actual copper being dented would more likely kill the PCB first.
> 
> In all, we want our users to be happy with what they bought. To us, it's more important that we can find out why your product is not performing up to par then to define who's fault is it. So it could be a flaw in the mounting (ie. one screw having bad threads) causing a difficult and ultimately poor mount. Or it could be your mainboard's screw holes a fraction of mm too small, it's all possible.
> 
> As mentioned heatsinks don't really fail, failure rate is something well under 1%. Most of the time it's fan, mounting pieces (screws and bolts) and of course human error. So don't feel bullied when other users try to first point out the most common points of failure either, it's just logical to start from there.


Hi Steve, thanks for checking the forums. I was really hoping I could get it working without any assistance.

You are right its not a dent I over exaggerated a bit. but I still think the scratches is on the heatsink not the IHS. Because IHS doesn't seem to have any marks. anyway I can show you all the pictures I have. All pictures was taken from my very last mount of the H7

probably hard to tell with just pictures but let me know what your professional opinion by the way your support team just responded. I will send them the same 5 pictures.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techbyte*
> 
> I understand what you are saying. However, it is the company that is choosing to ship internationally. I can't imagine that they don't sell enough products in the USA to open a small warehouse in the USA.
> 
> That said, I was asking because if what I posted above is the case, then I will avoid future contact with them during the initial 30 days. It would have been nothing for me to just purchase another M9i and return my initial M9i when I received it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was hoping someone who has done an actual RMA with Cryorig to chime in.


I understand what you are saying, but adding another warehouse for warranty is a lot of additional expense for building, inventory, staff, utiliities, etc. It this very competitive market that is money better not spent. To me this is what your retail dealers should take care of, then Cryorig replace it in their next shipment. So as you say, deal with who you buy from first. Us Cryorig as second choice. Sure Cryorig has great customer service, but the distance and international issues do cause delays.


----------



## Techbyte

DamasterJJ

Are you able to remove the mounting arms? I would remove them if possible and lay them on a table top or something. Make sure they are all flat (Or one isn't different/bent). Looking at the marks on the heatsink, it appears to me that the heatsink isn't sitting evenly on the CPU.


----------



## Damasterjj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techbyte*
> 
> DamasterJJ
> 
> Are you able to remove the mounting arms? I would remove them if possible and lay them on a table top or something. Make sure they are all flat (Or one isn't different/bent). Looking at the marks on the heatsink, it appears to me that the heatsink isn't sitting evenly on the CPU.


yeah thats why i thoughj, I don't think the arms is removable.


----------



## doyll

I gave my H7 to a mate or I would look and see.


----------



## Techbyte

I really like Cryorig coolers. I think they look great and I was going with a black/white color scheme in my build.

I initially planned on getting the H7 myself until I seen its mounting hardware / how it is mounted. I have owned quite a few CPU coolers and the one I disliked the most was the Cooler Master Geminii M4. Mainly because I don't prefer top down coolers (had no choice in specific build) but also because of its mounting hardware. It mounts essentially the same as the H7. I don't quite know how to put it in words and explain it, but think H7 hardware vs M9i hardware. This is why I went with the M9i, and being I only planned on using an i5 6500 anyways, it is more than sufficient.


----------



## TiezZ BE

Hi guys,

Just wanted to say that I've had a very good experience with Cryorig after sales support

I was missing some extra fan clips on my H5 Universal. I never saw them with the cooler/packaging (which I still have). But In first case I didn't notice they were missing because I didn't need them. But when I was looking to replace the 13mm thick fan for more performance on the cooler I noticed they weren't included.

I contacted them because of this and they asked for my delivery details and serial nr, and then they've send me a pair, no further questions asked.

Great support!


----------



## doyll

This is normal Cryorig support.








They are one of the best customer support companies I know of.


----------



## bboiprfsr

Hello all, i'm new to the overclock.net forums but i've been lurking here for a long time









I own the H5 ultimate













i5-3570k o.c. 4.4ghz
@ 30% usage = 51C CPU package & 36C CPU socket & 30C motherboard (ambient temp = 26.6C)
@ 100% usage (prime95 for 10minutes) = 75C CPU package & 55C CPU socket & 30C motherboard
*prime95 v5.22-2820

note: not using 2 top fans at the moment for exhaust b/c i need to lubricate them. they're loud/annoying but i can see a ~5C decrease in temp with them, lowering load temps down to 70C. I must mention not just including the top fans, but also not having all my pc fans at 100% max. they were at normal fan rpm.

seemed to fluctuate to 80C cpu package, 60C cpu socket, but i also have my browser on w/ youtube. decided to stop the test. It's maintaining those temps i mentioned at 100% usage.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bboiprfsr*
> 
> Hello all, i'm new to the overclock.net forums but i've been lurking here for a long time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I own the H5 ultimate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i5-3570k o.c. 4.4ghz
> @ 30% usage = 51C CPU package & 36C CPU socket & 30C motherboard (ambient temp = 26.6C)
> @ 100% usage (prime95 for 10minutes) = 75C CPU package & 55C CPU socket & 30C motherboard
> *prime95 v5.22-2820
> 
> note: not using 2 top fans at the moment for exhaust b/c i need to lubricate them. they're loud/annoying but i can see a ~5C decrease in temp with them, lowering load temps down to 70C. I must mention not just including the top fans, but also not having all my pc fans at 100% max. they were at normal fan rpm.
> 
> seemed to fluctuate to 80C cpu package, 60C cpu socket, but i also have my browser on w/ youtube. decided to stop the test. It's maintaining those temps i mentioned at 100% usage.


Looks like a nice system.

Not sure which ASUS GeForce GTX xxx Direct CU II 2 GB you have, but I know they are power hungry .. like 220w, so lots of heat when gaming.

Your temps are not bad.

What are temps when gaming?

Using top fans usually means heat from GPU is being drawn up around H5 which results in higher CPU temps.

I'm guessing H5 is flowing more air than your rear exhaust fan is .. meaning some of that heated air is circling around and mixing / heating up the air going into H5.

You might find "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig of interest.1st post is index, click on topics to see them. I suggest starting with 5th post.

What case do you have?
What cases fans?

More importantly, what is the air temp going into H5?


----------



## bboiprfsr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What are temps when gaming?
> What case do you have?
> What cases fans?
> More importantly, what is the air temp going into H5?


When i play smite (moba) or witcher 1 (rpg), temps are around 45C (cpu socket) or 55C (cpu package).
I have a corsair 400R case.
My front intake are stock 120mm corsair fans and my exhaust fan is the same.
Speed: 1200 RPM
Airflow: 43.2 CFM
Static Pressure: 1.6 mm-H2O
Noise: 18 dBA

The side fan is a tri-cool antec 120 mm fan (i bought it for $16 at fryes while newegg has it for $10... ***)
RPM 1200 / 1600 / 2000 RPM
Air Flow 39 / 56 / 79 CFM
Noise Level 25 / 28 / 30 dBA

Funny story, i got my bottom intake and exhaust top fans through craigslist for $15.
dc brvshless dw-12v
he probably got it from ebay. there's literally no internet result giving its specs, but i can guess he probably got it from here (http://www.openpinoy.com/shop/step1.php?number=6777)
i have no idea what the air temp going into the H5 is, but i can guess? 29.8C

--
The push XT140 fan (slim cpu cooling fan) is 65 CFM and the pull XF140 fan (fat cpu cooling fan) is 76 CFM.

My graphics card is an asus 7950 DirectCU II v2 card. Thank you for your response. I agree with your opinion on the rear exhaust fan impeding system airflow by creating extra resistance. I am debating on moving it to hard drive cage by the graphics card.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bboiprfsr*
> 
> When i play smite (moba) or witcher 1 (rpg), temps are around 45C (cpu socket) or 55C (cpu package).......


You need to install CoreTemp, or another monitor that will show you the temps of your cores. That is the reading that matters, and is the one that you see reported here. Package and socket temps can vary greatly and are not necessarily a great indicator of how well your cooling is actually doing.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bboiprfsr*
> 
> When i play smite (moba) or witcher 1 (rpg), temps are around 45C (cpu socket) or 55C (cpu package).
> I have a corsair 400R case.
> My front intake are stock 120mm corsair fans and my exhaust fan is the same.
> Speed: 1200 RPM
> Airflow: 43.2 CFM
> Static Pressure: 1.6 mm-H2O
> Noise: 18 dBA
> 
> The side fan is a tri-cool antec 120 mm fan (i bought it for $16 at fryes while newegg has it for $10... ***)
> RPM 1200 / 1600 / 2000 RPM
> Air Flow 39 / 56 / 79 CFM
> Noise Level 25 / 28 / 30 dBA
> 
> Funny story, i got my bottom intake and exhaust top fans through craigslist for $15.
> dc brvshless dw-12v
> he probably got it from craigslist. there's literally no internet result giving it's specs, but i can guess he probably got it from ebay or here (http://www.openpinoy.com/shop/step1.php?number=6777)
> i have no idea what the air temp going into the H5 is, but i can guess? 29.8C
> 
> --
> The push XT140 fan (slim cpu cooling fan) is 65 CFM and the pull XF140 fan (fat cpu cooling fan) is 76 CFM.
> 
> My graphics card is an asus 7950 DirectCU II v2 card. Thank you for your response. I agree with your opinion on the rear exhaust fan impeding system airflow by creating extra resistance. I am debating on moving it to hard drive cage by the graphics card.


What ciarlatano said.









Trying to guess what the real air temp going into H5 is not a good way to find out. You could try using the XF140 as rear exhuast and see if that improves things.


----------



## bboiprfsr

I used white lithium grease on my fans, and they're faster/quieter now









I removed my exhaust rear 120mm corsair fan and relocated it to become a side intake fan parallel to the H5 cpu cooler.

was using HWinfo64 v5.22-2820

Ran prime95 for 30 minutes.

Core #0 avg = 59C (max 67C)
Core #1 avg = 65C (max 73C)
Core #2 avg = 69C (max 77C)
Core #3 avg = 69C (max 76C)

cpu package avg 69C

Thank you for all your help!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bboiprfsr*
> 
> I used white lithium grease on my fans, and they're faster/quieter now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I removed my exhaust rear 120mm corsair fan and relocated it to become a side intake fan parallel to the H5 cpu cooler.
> 
> was using HWinfo64 v5.22-2820
> 
> Ran prime95 for 30 minutes.
> 
> Core #0 avg = 59C (max 67C)
> Core #1 avg = 65C (max 73C)
> Core #2 avg = 69C (max 77C)
> Core #3 avg = 69C (max 76C)
> 
> cpu package avg 69C
> 
> Thank you for all your help!


Not bad at all.








How long from starting prime95 does it take for CPU temp to reach it's highest level? Is it a few minutes, or dose it take 15-20 minutes?


----------



## bboiprfsr

takes a while, like 15-20 minutes. Then it goes down again. When i saw an even pattern on the graph under control, i stopped recording (well i waited until the 30 min mark).


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bboiprfsr*
> 
> takes a while, like 15-20 minutes. Then it goes down again. When i saw an even pattern on the graph under control, i stopped recording (well i waited until the 30 min mark).


That is fairly typical for a cooler of that capacity. Larger coolers and liquid tend to stabilize a little quicker. Your temps like good for 4.4, what voltage are you running it at?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bboiprfsr*
> 
> takes a while, like 15-20 minutes. Then it goes down again. When i saw an even pattern on the graph under control, i stopped recording (well i waited until the 30 min mark).


Here is short graph of prime95 on one of mine. Notice peak temp is reached in aobut 3 minutes. The 54.1c temp line that gets cooler as system fans go faster is motherboard northbridge. It idles warmer at idle than under load because fans are spinning slow (about 660rpm). When fans speed up a little more it cools down.


I'm not going to disagree with ciarlatano, but in my testing of mid-level cooling coolers like Megahalems, TRUE Spirit 140 and 120, H$-02 / Macho H5, etc. I haven't noticed much difference in time to stable peak temp. Maybe I'm not pushing enough heat at them, but my temps are similar to bboiprfsr


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Here is short graph of prime95 on one of mine. Notice peak temp is reached in aobut 3 minutes. The 54.1c temp line that gets cooler as system fans go faster is motherboard northbridge. It idles warmer at idle than under load because fans are spinning slow (about 660rpm). When fans speed up a little more it cools down.
> 
> 
> I'm not going to disagree with ciarlatano, but in my testing of mid-level cooling coolers like Megahalems, TRUE Spirit 140 and 120, H$-02 / Macho H5, etc. I haven't noticed much difference in time to stable peak temp. Maybe I'm not pushing enough heat at them, but my temps are similar to bboiprfsr


Three minutes is about the same for me with any essentially cooler on the 860, 2700K and 4790K. My 3570K and 4770K showed a greater disparity in time to level off - maybe something to do with the awful TIM they used on those CPUs?


----------



## SR-71 Blackbird




----------



## rapkct

So, in my infinite wisdom I bought the R1 Ultimate assuming that it would fit right into this Lancool case (it doesn't, the case specified 160mm). Since that is not going to happen, it'll replace the H5 Ultimate sitting on the 4770K. Will update in the next few days.



Will probably match the 4770K system better though.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rapkct*
> 
> So, in my infinite wisdom I bought the R1 Ultimate assuming that it would fit right into this Lancool case (it doesn't, the case specified 160mm). Since that is not going to happen, it'll replace the H5 Ultimate sitting on the 4770K. Will update in the next few days.
> 
> 
> 
> Will probably match the 4770K system better though.


I'm going to make a wild guess that the R1 Ultimate problem is not the cooler, but the front fan not fitting between tall RAM and case? If it will fit without front fan, The R1 Universal should solve your problem. The front of R1 Universal with fan is 52mm from center of CPU while R1 Ultimate with fan is 65.4mm.


----------



## rapkct

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm going to make a wild guess that the R1 Ultimate problem is not the cooler, but the front fan not fitting between tall RAM and case? If it will fit without front fan, The R1 Universal should solve your problem. The front of R1 Universal with fan is 52mm from center of CPU while R1 Ultimate with fan is 65.4mm.


RAM isn't the issue here (it's Vengeance LPXes), but I need to physically check it. Initial checking with measurement tapes showed me that I might have a headroom of 2cm to spare on the K58, which would allow me to fit the cooler as it is.

Part of this stemmed from my desire to install 2015/16 hardware on a case made in 2009







.

EDIT: I decided to make an actual test fit because measurements mean nothing. And guess what?

It fits.



This might be the first Lancool case in the entire world to use a CRYORIG cooler.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rapkct*
> 
> EDIT: I decided to make an actual test fit because measurements mean nothing. And guess what?
> 
> It fits.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rapkct*
> 
> EDIT: I decided to make an actual test fit because measurements mean nothing. And guess what?
> 
> It fits.
> 
> 
> 
> This might be the first Lancool case in the entire world to use a CRYORIG cooler.


Looks very nice!









Does it touch side cover or is there a little clearance?
I


----------



## rapkct

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks very nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it touch side cover or is there a little clearance?
> I


The side cover doesn't touch any part of the cooler, there's few mm of clearance available above even the front fan. Now to replace that broken spacer in the case...


----------



## Valgaur

Hello Peoples!

I am looking into the R1 Ultimate cooler with an ASUS strix X99 mobo. My concern isn't necessarily Ram as I can find other options, but the issue is having dual 780ti's on that motherboard. Would this cooler hit the back of the top card? The case will be a Phanteks Evolv Atx Glass edition

Thanks









-Val


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Hello Peoples!
> 
> I am looking into the R1 Ultimate cooler with an ASUS strix X99 mobo. My concern isn't necessarily Ram as I can find other options, but the issue is having dual 780ti's on that motherboard. Would this cooler hit the back of the top card? The case will be a Phanteks Evolv Atx Glass edition
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Val


The case is definitely big enough to fit the cooler. As for the motherboard, if you already have it, you can use Cryorig's origami thing to see if it fits. If not, @doyll can probably tell you.

http://www.cryorig.com/images/tester/r1-ultimate/r1-ultimate_socket_2011.pdf


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> The case is definitely big enough to fit the cooler. As for the motherboard, if you already have it, you can use Cryorig's origami thing to see if it fits. If not, @doyll can probably tell you.
> 
> http://www.cryorig.com/images/tester/r1-ultimate/r1-ultimate_socket_2011.pdf


Thanks for the case confirmation! I dont have any of these parts currently, just mentally building it for purchase. I think it'll fit as the NH-D15 will fit the motherboard and wont cover the top pci-e lane. the R1 ulti is 10mm thinner width wise. Any thoughts?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Don't know which cards you're looking at putting in there Valgaur, but coincidentally I happen to have my GTX 780 Classified without backplate in my rig atm (Z87X-OC is the motherboard), so I took a few pics. Hopefully they'll be somewhat of use as to what kind of gap we're talking about. Sadly I don't have a shortly (4" or 6") ruler, and my 12" ruler doesn't quite fit into my Phantom 820. Also, going by the placeholder item I used to try and measure between the edge of the fan and the PCB there could be as much as another 1/16" to 1/8" of clearance....


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Don't know which cards you're looking at putting in there Valgaur, but coincidentally I happen to have my GTX 780 Classified without backplate in my rig atm (Z87X-OC is the motherboard), so I took a few pics. Hopefully they'll be somewhat of use as to what kind of gap we're talking about. Sadly I don't have a shortly (4" or 6") ruler, and my 12" ruler doesn't quite fit into my Phantom 820. Also, going by the placeholder item I used to try and measure between the edge of the fan and the PCB there could be as much as another 1/16" to 1/8" of clearance....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks Wulfe!

Does anyone have a list of current offerings on RAM that fit under this bad boy? I'd also like white as well, trying for colors this build


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Hello Peoples!
> 
> I am looking into the R1 Ultimate cooler with an ASUS strix X99 mobo. My concern isn't necessarily Ram as I can find other options, but the issue is having dual 780ti's on that motherboard. Would this cooler hit the back of the top card? The case will be a Phanteks Evolv Atx Glass edition
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Val


Asus Strix X99 has 75-76mm from center CPU to near side of PCIe socket.
R1 Ultimate is 70mm center toward PCIe socket. so unless your 780ti backplate is not more than a couple mm PCIe socket toward CPU you should be fine. Hope that makes sense.

Opening post of thread has detailed drawing of R1 Ultimate clearances.

Evolv ATX TG has 194mm CPU clearance, so definitely no problems there.


----------



## rapkct

Change of plans on the 6600K with the R1 Ultimate sitting on it. I'm getting a good deal on a barely-used Enthoo Luxe, so I'll switch to that instead of trying to force my way into the K58W which is giving me a lot of grief because the copper spacers simply would not fit (one of the many problems the case have). Now to get matching fans for it...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rapkct*
> 
> Change of plans on the 6600K with the R1 Ultimate sitting on it. I'm getting a good deal on a barely-used Enthoo Luxe, so I'll switch to that instead of trying to force my way into the K58W which is giving me a lot of grief because the copper spacers simply would not fit (one of the many problems the case have). Now to get matching fans for it...


Good plan!








If Luxe has the stock 200mm front fan, change it to 2x PH-f140SP fans and you will have much better airflow.


----------



## rapkct

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Good plan!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If Luxe has the stock 200mm front fan, change it to 2x PH-f140SP fans and you will have much better airflow.


The stock black frame/white bladed 140mms that comes with those cases? I actually have four of them in a Define R5 right now.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rapkct*
> 
> The stock black frame/white bladed 140mms that comes with those cases? I actually have four of them in a Define R5 right now.


Those would be the ones.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rapkct*
> 
> The stock black frame/white bladed 140mms that comes with those cases? I actually have four of them in a Define R5 right now.


Like ciarlatano said, those are the ones. They do a great job.


----------



## Valgaur

Hello again!

I've been reading through the information in this thread about the R1 Ultimate, I'm still have trouble finding a memory kit that will fit that 31.5mm height. The corsair LPX low profiles look like they might bit but I'm unsure. Any X99 users with all 8 dimms filled with the R1 ulti???


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Hello again!
> 
> I've been reading through the information in this thread about the R1 Ultimate, I'm still have trouble finding a memory kit that will fit that 31.5mm height. The corsair LPX low profiles look like they might bit but I'm unsure. Any X99 users with all 8 dimms filled with the R1 ulti???


The Corsair LPX are 31mm, so they should fit. There's there HyperX Fury too, those are about the only 8x kits that 31.5mm or lower.

Off topic: o you really need 8 dimms though, its nothing but trouble unless you really need that 128GB+ RAM.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> The Corsair LPX are 31mm, so they should fit. There's there HyperX Fury too, those are about the only 8x kits that 31.5mm or lower.
> 
> Off topic: o you really need 8 dimms though, its nothing but trouble unless you really need that 128GB+ RAM.


I Got Kingston HyperX Savage ram under the R1 Ultimate in this one


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> The Corsair LPX are 31mm, so they should fit. There's there HyperX Fury too, those are about the only 8x kits that 31.5mm or lower.
> 
> Off topic: o you really need 8 dimms though, its nothing but trouble unless you really need that 128GB+ RAM.


I was thinking of doing 64 gb 8x8 kit, but not sure I would use all 64. Now with 32 I can push that VM's CAD software, and other server tie ins. But currently Im maxing out 12 by a large margin, gotta love X58









Thanks for the LPX confirmation I'll likely go with those


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> I was thinking of doing 64 gb 8x8 kit, but not sure I would use all 64. Now with 32 I can push that VM's CAD software, and other server tie ins. But currently Im maxing out 12 by a large margin, gotta love X58
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the LPX confirmation I'll likely go with those


52mm from center of CPU to RAM socket has 31.5mm RAM clearance to heatpipe. In other words RAM 31.5 tall and as wide as RAM socket should fit. I think LPX is 31mm tall. I don't know how thick it is, but I don't think it's as thick as a RAM socket.

This drawing is also in opening post.










I thought X58 would use up to 48GB?


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 52mm from center of CPU to RAM socket has 31.5mm RAM clearance to heatpipe. In other words RAM 31.5 tall and as wide as RAM socket should fit. I think LPX is 31mm tall. I don't know how thick it is, but I don't think it's as thick as a RAM socket.
> 
> This drawing is also in opening post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought X58 would use up to 48GB?


They do which is why im upgrading my setup, getting hard to find the kit im using to match with the xeons. Thanks again for this information everyone!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> They do which is why im upgrading my setup, getting hard to find the kit im using to match with the xeons. Thanks again for this information everyone!


Indeed, DDR3 for X58 is like hens' teeth.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Indeed, DDR3 for X58 is like hens' teeth.


I think I'll just do 1 set of 32 gb, and see my usage as well as if another set really fits


----------



## Aggrotech

http://imgur.com/a/dZzvk

Corsair LPX will work just fine. heres a few pics trying to show the clearance. You'll see the front fan is sliiiightly higher than the back fan, thats due to my fcking up and accidentally popping off fan clip. I had to move the fan up slightly to reinstall it correctly and just left it.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> I think I'll just do 1 set of 32 gb, and see my usage as well as if another set really fits


Why not just get a 64GB 4x set? Other than aesthetics, I really don't see the point of getting dual 4x or an 8x kit if you just need 64GB.


----------



## bboiprfsr

yo i have a question. would you guys ever get cryorig (xf140) fans as additional case fans? There may be some fanboy subjectivity to do with it. But objectively, we have aesthetics, 6 year warranty, decent noise (23 dBa) competitive airflow (76 cfm) and static pressure (1.44 mmH2O) at $17.

Noctua's NF-P14 fans are 19.8 dBa in noise, 64.9 cfm in airflow, and 1.29 mmH20 in pressure at $20 with 6 year warranty with a mocha color scheme. I have yet to see a full rig decked out with cryorig, but am considering modding my case with the CR trademark logo for funsies. xD

http://www.cryorig.com/images/gallery/logo/cryorig%20logo_badge.jpg


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bboiprfsr*
> 
> yo i have a question. would you guys ever get cryorig (xf140) fans as additional case fans? There may be some fanboy subjectivity to do with it. But objectively, we have aesthetics, 6 year warranty, decent noise (23 dBa) competitive airflow (76 cfm) and static pressure (1.44 mmH2O) at $17.
> 
> Noctua's NF-P14 fans are 19.8 dBa in noise, 64.9 cfm in airflow, and 1.29 mmH20 in pressure at $20 with 6 year warranty with a mocha color scheme. I have yet to see a full rig decked out with cryorig, but am considering modding my case with the CR trademark logo for funsies. xD
> 
> http://www.cryorig.com/images/gallery/logo/cryorig%20logo_badge.jpg


Using published specifications is not much better than grabbing numbers out of a lottery ball machine.








Test and review sites like Thermalbench and Cooling Technique give better info and comparisons. The Nocs do perform better, but the XF140 is still good enough for me .. much better than baby poo brown.


----------



## rapkct

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The Nocs do perform better, but the XF140 is still good enough for me .. much better than baby poo brown.


I swear buying Noctuas is like buying KTM bikes with their orange-y scheme. Unfortunately, they're the most commonly available fans through retail channels over here (besides Corsairs).


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bboiprfsr*
> 
> yo i have a question. would you guys ever get cryorig (xf140) fans as additional case fans? There may be some fanboy subjectivity to do with it. But objectively, we have aesthetics, 6 year warranty, decent noise (23 dBa) competitive airflow (76 cfm) and static pressure (1.44 mmH2O) at $17.
> 
> Noctua's NF-P14 fans are 19.8 dBa in noise, 64.9 cfm in airflow, and 1.29 mmH20 in pressure at $20 with 6 year warranty with a mocha color scheme. I have yet to see a full rig decked out with cryorig, but am considering modding my case with the CR trademark logo for funsies. xD
> 
> http://www.cryorig.com/images/gallery/logo/cryorig%20logo_badge.jpg


As @doyll stated, specs on the box are inaccurate, mainly due to variances in testing methods and no regulation. That said, I personally wouldn't use an XF140. While it is a good match with coolers, and good looking, the sound signature is very coarse. There is a lot more to how invasive a sound is than a simple dB rating. There are similarly priced fans that perform as well and are black or black/white.


----------



## rapkct

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> As @doyll stated, specs on the box are inaccurate, mainly due to variances in testing methods and no regulation. That said, I personally wouldn't use an XF140. While it is a good match with coolers, and good looking, the sound signature is very coarse. There is a lot more to how invasive a sound is than a simple dB rating. There are similarly priced fans that perform as well and are black or black/white.


Such as Phanteks 140mm fans? They certainly fit the bill imo.


----------



## doyll

Phanteks are quite good .. and usually reasonably priced too.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rapkct*
> 
> Such as Phanteks 140mm fans? They certainly fit the bill imo.


That would be one. Thermalright TY-147A would be another for lower flow applications. With plenty of Noctua, be quiet, Cryorig, Bitfenix and Cougar fans on hand....the Phanteks are the ones in my case if that means anything.


----------



## rapkct

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That would be one. Thermalright TY-147A would be another for lower flow applications. With plenty of Noctua, be quiet, Cryorig, Bitfenix and Cougar fans on hand....the Phanteks are the ones in my case if that means anything.


I actually went that route:



Will get rid of the XF140 behind the H5. Don't really see a difference with it. Most of the PH-F140SPs in the local market came from those removed from Enthoos around this country, some of these people probably went for an all-Noctua or all-Corsair configuration...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rapkct*
> 
> I actually went that route:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will get rid of the XF140 behind the H5. Don't really see a difference with it. Most of the PH-F140SPs in the local market came from those removed from Enthoos around this country, some of these people probably went for an all-Noctua or all-Corsair configuration...


Like ciarlatano said, the XF140 is not a bad fan. It just isn't as pleasant sounding some others .. at least to our ears.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rapkct*
> 
> I swear buying Noctuas is like buying KTM bikes with their orange-y scheme. Unfortunately, they're the most commonly available fans through retail channels over here (besides Corsairs).


I'll take KTM orange over Noctua brown any day of the week.... But I'm also slightly biased, alongside the popular opinion that man that Noctua brown is ugly!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rapkct*
> 
> I actually went that route:
> 
> 
> 
> Will get rid of the XF140 behind the H5. Don't really see a difference with it. Most of the PH-F140SPs in the local market came from those removed from Enthoos around this country, some of these people probably went for an all-Noctua or all-Corsair configuration...


People.....spend cash on a less aesthetically pleasing Noctua side grade, or Corsair downgrade. Just because they think different must be better.


----------



## ruffhi

My Liquorice Allsorts build is 100% Cryorig 120 Balanced fans. The current count is at 9 ... 7 in the radiator and 2 in the case.

The CR sticker is a little wobbly but it is easy enough to peal off.


----------



## rapkct

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Like ciarlatano said, the XF140 is not a bad fan. It just isn't as pleasant sounding some others .. at least to our ears.


Indeed, sound is a very subjective topic. Then again I game in a room with a noisy ceiling fan (old bearings). The loudest thing I hear at full gaming load is that 3+ year old R9 280X, so there's that. If I want to keep the PC on throughout the night without anyone complaining I'll set the fan voltage to 7V.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> People.....spend cash on a less aesthetically pleasing Noctua side grade, or Corsair downgrade. Just because they think different must be better.


Ironically, the K58 lying on the side in the background ran Noctua fans. Thought the whole case might go because the copper spacers in it are giving me a lot of grief.


----------



## dainfamous

Anybody know the distance from the center of the cpu plate to the end of the 6 heatpipes sticking out from the cryorig c1?

TIA.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> Anybody know the distance from the center of the cpu plate to the end of the 6 heatpipes sticking out from the cryorig c1?
> 
> TIA.


As I don't have a C1 to measure, I scaled from the dimensional drawing. I often do this then verify with actual measurements. Accuracy is +/-1-1.5mm .. accurate enough for my kind of girls.


----------



## rapkct

Since the Luxe isn't coming anytime soon, I decided to fall back into the K58.


----------



## bboiprfsr

what made you decide to upgrade from a H5 to a R1?


----------



## rapkct

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bboiprfsr*
> 
> what made you decide to upgrade from a H5 to a R1?


I did not. This is another PC I built to replace a Pentium 4-powered toaster.

(The PC with the H5 is in the background of Pic #3.)


----------



## mr squishy

Still waiting on that Z1 release date unveil...


----------



## rapkct

I wonder if there will be a way to get QF140s without resorting to buying A80s. Perhaps they could give certain square 140mm fans a run for the money.


----------



## bboiprfsr

Z1


ZALMAN CNPS9900MAX-B $50

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/zalman_cnps_9900_max_review,7.html
zalman cnps9900max-b outperforms the noctua nh-d14 back in 2010. no wonder cryorig is developing something similar. Do you think they're waiting on issuing patents, testing it, or going through mass production / manufacturing in volume?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bboiprfsr*
> 
> 
> Z1
> 
> 
> ZALMAN CNPS9900MAX-B $50
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/zalman_cnps_9900_max_review,7.html
> zalman cnps9900max-b outperforms the noctua nh-d14 back in 2010. no wonder cryorig is developing something similar. Do you think they're waiting on issuing patents, testing it, or going through mass production / manufacturing in volume?


That was a very atypical result. The 9900 was no match for the D14 in most tests. And....the mounting system was a nightmare.


----------



## Roaches

http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=2021

Radial heatsinks were kinda more common in the old days, I remember ThermalTake having their orb series when they were more innovative than they are today. Though as far as I know the patent Zalman holds is about the looping heatpipe design which using 3 heatpipes in a loop to the base providing the same cooling surface area as like using 6 separate heatpipes in a radial fin array assembly.

Cryorigs design actually seems to use 6 separate heatpipes with curved ends matching their radial profile and their fin assembly probably works by sandwich press soldering 2 separate arrays per tower (4 total) like seen on the R1 Universal/Ultimate as this is how their so called Jet Fin Acceleration is mechanically designed and assembled in the R1.

I still have my Zalman 9900 Max, unfortunately their fastener design is poorly engineered as I had to replace them with due to them stripping the moment I apply the slightest torque to tighten them up on installation. And yes the whole mounting system is a disaster if you're trying to install it in a motherboard already installed in an enclousure. You're better off removing the board from the chassis to install it without much of the hassle.

I'm still waiting on the Z1, its probably the most interesting heatsink in a good while.


----------



## javamocha

i like cryorig...but i have unpleasant experience with their HSF. So i avoid their HSF, and use their fans only...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bboiprfsr*
> 
> 
> Z1
> 
> 
> ZALMAN CNPS9900MAX-B $50
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/zalman_cnps_9900_max_review,7.html
> zalman cnps9900max-b outperforms the noctua nh-d14 back in 2010. no wonder cryorig is developing something similar. Do you think they're waiting on issuing patents, testing it, or going through mass production / manufacturing in volume?


Have to agree with ciarlatano on this one. Thermalright Silver Arrow & Cogage Arrow (basically same cooler) and NH-D14 were the very best of the very best when they came out. They are still among the top coolers today. While CNPS9900 is about the same or maybe a degree or two warmer, it is definitely not better and it's louder too. The problem with it is not being able to easily replace the fan.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javamocha*
> 
> i like cryorig...but i have unpleasant experience with their HSF. So i avoid their HSF, and use their fans only...


Your experience is backwards to what most of use have had. The coolers are top tier while their fans move air okay, they do not have as pleasant a sound to our ears.

What was your problem with the coolers?


----------



## javamocha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have to agree with ciarlatano on this one. Thermalright Silver Arrow & Cogage Arrow (basically same cooler) and NH-D14 were the very best of the very best when they came out. They are still among the top coolers today. While CNPS9900 is about the same or maybe a degree or two warmer, it is definitely not better and it's louder too. The problem with it is not being able to easily replace the fan.
> Your experience is backwards to what most of use have had. The coolers are top tier while their fans move air okay, they do not have as pleasant a sound to our ears.
> 
> What was your problem with the coolers?


i have no doubt about the performance, i'm sure they're one of the top tier air cooler...something that really upset me is the mounting mechanism...maybe i'm the noob here...i just can't install that H5 ultimate on my fm2+ socket...i almost throw the HSf to the wall at the time...i've installed cooler master's and noctua's HSF but never been as difficult as cryorig's

now i just stick to what's easiest to install.....noctua...or maybe cooler master.....but i still want that C1...so sexy.


----------



## ruffhi

Installing the C1 drove me crazy. Installing the H9i is like falling off a log (easy). The difference was / is that you cannot see what you are doing with the C1. I ended up 'dry' mounting it and once I worked out exactly where it needed to go ... I put small sharpie marks on the C1 cooler and on the case. Add your putty, line up the marks ... bingo!


----------



## javamocha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Installing the C1 drove me crazy. Installing the H9i is like falling off a log (easy). The difference was / is that you cannot see what you are doing with the C1. I ended up 'dry' mounting it and once I worked out exactly where it needed to go ... I put small sharpie marks on the C1 cooler and on the case. Add your putty, line up the marks ... bingo!


ikr....that's why i think noctua has the easiest mounting mech in the world...shame.. i like cryorig design....but installing it is just pain...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Installing the C1 drove me crazy. Installing the H9i is like falling off a log (easy). The difference was / is that you cannot see what you are doing with the C1. I *ended up 'dry' mounting it and once I worked out exactly where it needed to go ... I put small sharpie marks on the C1 cooler and on the case. Add your putty, line up the marks* ... bingo!


Exactly!









Cryorig are easy to mount. But we need position cooler properly. As you learned, all it takes is a quick dry test run to find out where cooler needs to be set so things align properly and it a cake-walk / walk in the park to install them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javamocha*
> 
> ikr....that's why i think noctua has the easiest mounting mech in the world...shame.. i like cryorig design....but installing it is just pain...


As ruffhi said above, it's really easy if you do a practice mount so you know how to get things aligned properly.


----------



## javamocha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Exactly!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cryorig are easy to mount. But we need position cooler properly. As you learned, all it takes is a quick dry test run to find out where cooler needs to be set so things align properly and it a cake-walk / walk in the park to install them.
> As ruffhi said above, it's really easy if you do a practice mount so you know how to get things aligned properly.


well i don't know....maybe not my type of mounting mecha...i don't like complicated things...it's just not suitable for me.

i don't want to experience the same frustration ever again....i still like that C1 though...


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javamocha*
> 
> well i don't know....maybe not my type of mounting mecha...i don't like complicated things...it's just not suitable for me.
> 
> i don't want to experience the same frustration ever again....i still like that C1 though...


If you think Cryorig's mounting system is hard, I'd like to see you mount a cooler with an actual difficult mount, like some of the older Scythe mounts or be quiet!'s mount.

Cryorig's mount is as simple as they come and actually quite similar to Noctua's mount.


----------



## javamocha

well, I don't want to argue any further...like I said...maybe I'm the noob here...I can't handle Cryorig mounting mech. If it's easy for you, good, i'm happy for you.

sorry if insult Cryorig users. I bought the H5 Ultimate, but i failed to install it on FM2+ socket (because i'm a noob), so I sold it. since I'm just an average person, I think I'll choose the simplest of them all.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javamocha*
> 
> well, I don't want to argue any further...like I said...maybe I'm the noob here...I can't handle Cryorig mounting mech. If it's easy for you, good, i'm happy for you.
> 
> sorry if insult Cryorig users. I bought the H5 Ultimate, but i failed to install it on FM2+ socket (because i'm a noob), so I sold it. since I'm just an average person, I think I'll choose the simplest of them all.


I have to think you misread the install manual. The Cryorig mount is the easiest mount on the market. Actually even easier than Noctua's on AMD. Oh, well, it is what it is.


----------



## bboiprfsr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javamocha*
> 
> well, I don't want to argue any further...like I said...maybe I'm the noob here...I can't handle Cryorig mounting mech. If it's easy for you, good, i'm happy for you.
> 
> sorry if insult Cryorig users. I bought the H5 Ultimate, but i failed to install it on FM2+ socket (because i'm a noob), so I sold it. since I'm just an average person, I think I'll choose the simplest of them all.


I found the h5 ultimate somewhat of a challenge due to improper alignment, but once you figure that out and tighten each screw a little at a time, it's super simple. It's easiest if your motherboard is out of the case but is entirely doable if you have access to the back of the motherboard while it's installed in the case.


----------



## rapkct

I've remounted the H5 Ultimate onto the 4770K few times by now, both with and without taking the motherboard out of the case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javamocha*
> 
> well, I don't want to argue any further...like I said...maybe I'm the noob here...I can't handle Cryorig mounting mech. If it's easy for you, good, i'm happy for you.
> 
> sorry if insult Cryorig users. I bought the H5 Ultimate, but i failed to install it on FM2+ socket (because i'm a noob), so I sold it. since I'm just an average person, I think I'll choose the simplest of them all.


Everyone makes mistakes sometimes. I was a noob at this entire PC building thing.


----------



## javamocha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have to think you misread the install manual. The Cryorig mount is the easiest mount on the market. Actually even easier than Noctua's on AMD. Oh, well, it is what it is.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bboiprfsr*
> 
> I found the h5 ultimate somewhat of a challenge due to improper alignment, but once you figure that out and tighten each screw a little at a time, it's super simple. It's easiest if your motherboard is out of the case but is entirely doable if you have access to the back of the motherboard while it's installed in the case.


i did..but since i'm a noob...i failed...i noticed the improper alignment too...i felt miserable for not able to mount it....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I have to think you misread the install manual. The Cryorig mount is the easiest mount on the market. Actually even easier than Noctua's on AMD. Oh, well, it is what it is.


you know? i bought cryorig before i went with noctua, bcoz i want to upgrade from my cooler master gemini SF524. the AMD mounting kit was cool on the cryorig, i really like it, better than noctua's. but that bad first experience turned me off. maybe i'll go with cryorig in the future, since i liked the C1 very much.


----------



## bboiprfsr

Everyone starts off noob. Don't feel bad. however, in the future, if you have problems with an issue, do more research and ask questions. Problem solving is what makes you successful in life.

with that said, i'm proud of my cryorig pc rig. It's not the quietest or most expensive, but I think i got what i paid for


----------



## Hionmaiden

Are A40 ultimate owners allowed?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hionmaiden*
> 
> Are A40 ultimate owners allowed?


Wait.....there are any??????









Just kidding. Of course you are welcome, Cryorig is Cryorig. Well, in your case, Cryorig is Asetek.....but it has Cryorig branding.....and Cryorig fans....either way, come on in.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hionmaiden*
> 
> Are A40 ultimate owners allowed?


Of course you are.








And you have our empathy / sympathy too.









I have to admit to using an A80 on one system I have. Sadly, it is louder than any of my other systems.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Of course you are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you have our empathy / sympathy too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to admit to using an A80 on one system I have. Sadly, it is louder than any of my other systems.


Then, why in Lord's name are you using it? It's not like you have a shortage of good coolers over there.









And, of course it's louder. It's an Asetek. They are built to rely on the highest airflow possible to operate effectively.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Then, why in Lord's name are you using it? It's not like you have a shortage of good coolers over there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, of course it's louder. It's an Asetek. They are built to rely on the highest airflow possible to operate effectively.


I have to give it a fair chance. I have it in the garage so the noise doesn't bother me. With the 22v0 to 120v 4500w transformer humming away it's not too bad. If I'm using the shop dust filtratons and extraction system while using table say or planer I hardly hear it.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> And, of course it's louder. It's an Asetek. They are built to rely on the highest airflow possible to operate effectively.


I think you're preaching to the choir there m8.

Another thing i like about Cryorig, even though they sell a CLC, at least they state its an Asetek unit on their product page, unlike some other manufactures. And they tried to do something different with that VRM cooling fan.


----------



## rapkct

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Of course you are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you have our empathy / sympathy too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to admit to using an A80 on one system I have. Sadly, it is louder than any of my other systems.


Why they did not sell the QF140s on the A80 as regular retail fans are beyond me. How would they fare as case fans?


----------



## bboiprfsr

*speaking of fans, what does HPLN (high precision, low noise) bearing entail*?

sleeve bearings, rifle bearings, ball bearings, fluid (hydro) bearings, or magnetic bearings?



_I read one review on newegg about it being noisy when turned horizontally versus being quiet vertically._


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rapkct*
> 
> Why they did not sell the QF140s on the A80 as regular retail fans are beyond me. How would they fare as case fans?


The QF140 is not a quiet fan. At ldle they are okay, but okay. I'll have to do some testing of just the fans and see. At anything above about 900rpm they start to whine.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bboiprfsr*
> 
> *speaking of fans, what does HPLN (high precision, low noise) bearing entail*?
> 
> sleeve bearings, rifle bearings, ball bearings, fluid (hydro) bearings, or magnetic bearings?
> 
> 
> 
> _I read one review on newegg about it being noisy when turned horizontally versus being quiet vertically._


We really only have 3 kinds of bearings. maglev, ball and sleeve. all sleeve bearing run on a layer of oil, so they are all 'fluid hydro". A good quality sleve bearing will last longer than you will be using your fans, and a poor quality ball bearing will not last as well and a good sleeve bearing. I have some sleeve bearing fans that have been in constant use for over 6 years with not a hint of a problem yet .. 3 of them have been running horizontal all that them.

Don't pay too much attention to newegg reviews. Most of them are done by peeps with no real knowledge or experience, so they are not very accurate.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Don't pay too much attention to newegg reviews. Most of them are done by peeps with no real knowledge or experience, so they are not very accurate.


Hey now, I resemble that accusation


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> We really only have 3 kinds of bearings. maglev, ball and sleeve. all sleeve bearing run on a layer of oil, so they are all 'fluid hydro". A good quality sleve bearing will last longer than you will be using your fans, and a poor quality ball bearing will not last as well and a good sleeve bearing. I have some sleeve bearing fans that have been in constant use for over 6 years with not a hint of a problem yet .. 3 of them have been running horizontal all that them.
> 
> Don't pay too much attention to newegg reviews. Most of them are done by peeps with no real knowledge or experience, so they are not very accurate.


Fluid Dynamic Bearings are nice and expensive due to the royalty to Sony I think. But as mentioned the FDB bearing is just a very specific type of fluid based bearing much like sleeve bearing. But each sleeve tech just uses different methods to get the oil flowing around the shaft.

Ball bearing is actually much more stable, although some people say that it adds noise... but personally I can't really tell the difference of having a few micro sized metal balls rotating in a closed hub.

Maglev is..... ho hum on 12~14cm DC fans, still need to understand more about it. But magnets have been in fans since....forever. Not really sure how the added magnet pushing the shaft up would do for noise though. Most noise is not due to the shaft.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Fluid Dynamic Bearings are nice and expensive due to the royalty to Sony I think. But as mentioned the FDB bearing is just a very specific type of fluid based bearing much like sleeve bearing. But each sleeve tech just uses different methods to get the oil flowing around the shaft.
> 
> Ball bearing is actually much more stable, although some people say that it adds noise... but personally I can't really tell the difference of having a few micro sized metal balls rotating in a closed hub.
> 
> Maglev is..... ho hum on 12~14cm DC fans, still need to understand more about it. But magnets have been in fans since....forever. Not really sure how the added magnet pushing the shaft up would do for noise though. Most noise is not due to the shaft.


Hi Steve! I know you stalk us here and other places, nice to see you make yourself known once in a great while.


----------



## Hionmaiden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Wait.....there are any??????
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just kidding. Of course you are welcome, Cryorig is Cryorig. Well, in your case, Cryorig is Asetek.....but it has Cryorig branding.....and Cryorig fans....either way, come on in.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Of course you are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you have our empathy / sympathy too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to admit to using an A80 on one system I have. Sadly, it is louder than any of my other systems.


In to the club I come then









I have to say my A40 ultimate is quite a quiet little boy and keeps the temps on my cpu extremely cool. I believe it's slightly better than the A80, I prefer thicker rad over longer rad









Just a few pics to join the crew


----------



## Dan-H

Water coolers in the air cooling forum?







What next? Dogs in the Fan Cat thread.
















Welcome nice looking setup !


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> Water coolers in the air cooling forum?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What next? Dogs in the Fan Cat thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome nice looking setup !


Well, most 'water cooling' people do not consider CLCs to be real water cooling systems. They are 'wanna-be-water' cooling systems.


----------



## Hionmaiden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> Water coolers in the air cooling forum?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What next? Dogs in the Fan Cat thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome nice looking setup !


It was more that I couldn't find an AIO cryorig forum page haha.

If cryorig did a custom loop i'd hands down buy that in a heartbeat. Especially if it was white/black


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hionmaiden*
> 
> In to the club I come then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to say my A40 ultimate is quite a quiet little boy and keeps the temps on my cpu extremely cool. I believe it's slightly better than the A80, I prefer thicker rad over longer rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a few pics to join the crew
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good......but......you have the little fan on the pump on backwards - or the pump backwards, or the entire setup backwards, depending on how far you want to take it. The small fan is meant to keep air moving over the VRM. Right now it is doing nothing other than trying to fight the airflow of the case.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Looks good......but......you have the little fan on the pump on backwards - or the pump backwards, or the entire setup backwards, depending on how far you want to take it. The small fan is meant to keep air moving over the VRM. Right now it is doing nothing other than trying to fight the airflow of the case.


Good catch!

The fan on CPU pump is pushing air down toward front RAM, so yes it is indeed fighting case airflow and needs to be turned to push air back toward the rear of case


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Good catch!
> 
> The fan on CPU pump is pushing air down toward front RAM, so yes it is indeed fighting case airflow and needs to be turned to push air back toward the rear of case


Easy enough to do:



But, that really doesn't help the VRM. Realistically, the whole thing should be turned around. It's the only CLC on the market that is orientation specific as far as I know.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Easy enough to do:
> 
> 
> 
> But, that really doesn't help the VRM. Realistically, the whole thing should be turned around. It's the only CLC on the market that is orientation specific as far as I know.


Indeed. To get best mobo cooler pump block needs ot be mounted with lines toward back of case. First thing I noticed when I looked at A80 was this problem. If the airflow fan and pump cover had s straight tab and slot the fan could simple be turned 180 degrees and slipped back in to push air onto VRMs. But because the tab and slot are curved, the tabs only fit one way, meaning only 2 fan positions. Really seems an oversight by engineer who designed it, but it's the sort of then we see 9 out of 10 times we look. Evolv side panel mounting could easily have been made so the would fit on either side of case by simply changing the hinges on panel, but the don't. Same applies to many case side covers. Or designing cases with vent airflow area only 10-20% the airflow area of fans that use them. How about car heater radiators that mount inside of firewall, and instead of having a access panel in firewall to replace in an hour require the removal of entire dash and everything else from seat to firewall that takes 8-10 hours.







Timing belts that require 8 hours and 20 or 30 other pieces removed including draining coolant and removing waterpump to access them for replacement, when a few cover screw mount in different places would have made it a 1 hour job.


----------



## angelreaper




----------



## Melcar

Got an XT140 to put on the back of my board blowing on the socket. At 20% PWM duty the fan makes this annoying audible clicking noise (none of my other PWM fans do that). Does not bother me since the noise gets drowned out by my other system fans. Is that normal or I just got a bad fan?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *angelreaper*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice performance!. Color combination makes me kinda wish I was color blind.


----------



## Hionmaiden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Looks good......but......you have the little fan on the pump on backwards - or the pump backwards, or the entire setup backwards, depending on how far you want to take it. The small fan is meant to keep air moving over the VRM. Right now it is doing nothing other than trying to fight the airflow of the case.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Good catch!
> 
> The fan on CPU pump is pushing air down toward front RAM, so yes it is indeed fighting case airflow and needs to be turned to push air back toward the rear of case


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Easy enough to do:
> 
> 
> 
> But, that really doesn't help the VRM. Realistically, the whole thing should be turned around. It's the only CLC on the market that is orientation specific as far as I know.


It's purely in that orientation for aesthetic reasons. My airflow is still great if i'm honest


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Well, most 'water cooling' people do not consider CLCs to be real water cooling systems. They are 'wanna-be-water' cooling systems.


And most real cool air cats know that even CLCs depend on air cooling to keep them out of hot water.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> And most real cool air cats know that even CLCs depend on air cooling to keep them out of hot water.


Are cool air cats smaller than hot air cats? I would think they are, because hot air is bigger than cool air.


----------



## Echoa

I'd like to join the club. I'll post pics when I'm home if my H5.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Echoa*
> 
> I'd like to join the club. I'll post pics when I'm home if my H5.


Being here and liking Cryorig makes you a member.









Look forward to seeing your build.


----------



## Echoa

Some quick shots of my rig with my H5 and my new 290x


----------



## rapkct

Well, we have to spread the word!

TechPowerUp and CRYORIG Announce the CRYOLYMPICS


----------



## ruffhi

No ... don't spread the word. There is less chance of me winning when others enter







.


----------



## doyll

What ruffhi said. What word? I don't know any word.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What ruffhi said. What word? I don't know any word.


You just look at the pictures?


----------



## ruffhi

There is no word!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You just look at the pictures?


I wanna see the Z1 !!
I wanna test it !!


----------



## bboiprfsr

i feel like cryorig is really emphasizing aesthetics, like the H7 Quad Lumi or R1's Custom Mod Covers, to stand out from the competition (i.e. Noctua who doesn't care about aesthetics but more about performance). I wish Cryorig could deliver other products with the CR brand (b/c let's be honest, their logo is legit), such as LED fans, perhaps ball-bearing fans over their current sleeve-bearing products at the moment, or some other cool stuff like rgb lighting system all-in-one fan controllers. In fact, I'd wet myself if they came out with a mid-tower gaming case with a special attention to detail on cooling / airflow / aesthetics / innovation / value along with their trademark.

This is my opinion, but the Ola and Taku ( http://www.cryorig.com/news.php?id=60&page=1) pc cases are a step in a weird the wrong direction for their company. Many people have smartphones & laptops for portability, and a simple mini-HDMI cable can hook up a video to a TV / monitor. I thought Cryrorig catered to budget and looks at the same time, in regards to their arguably best bang-for-the-buck product, the H7, but a $200 price on the mini-itx case alone?









Too much competition in cases are available in the market, including small-form factor cases for mini-itx and Intel's NUC (Next Unit of Computing).


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










What do you guys think? Should cryorig be devoted to air cooling alone, like Noctua, or expand its product line into other categories, like Rosewill, Zalman and Corsair?


----------



## ciarlatano

Ok, this is one of the oddest posts I have seen in some time......
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bboiprfsr*
> 
> i feel like cryorig is really emphasizing aesthetics, like the H7 Quad Lumi or R1's Custom Mod Covers, to stand out from the competition (i.e. Noctua who doesn't care about aesthetics but more about performance).


I would say the fact that their coolers are among the top performers at their price points, perform as well or better than the more expensive direct Noctua competitive unit makes the above a rather erroneous statement.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bboiprfsr*
> 
> I wish Cryorig could deliver other products with the CR brand (b/c let's be honest, their logo is legit), such as LED fans, perhaps ball-bearing fans over their current sleeve-bearing products at the moment, or some other cool stuff like rgb lighting system all-in-one fan controllers. In fact, I'd wet myself if they came out with a mid-tower gaming case with a special attention to detail on cooling / airflow / aesthetics / innovation / value along with their trademark.


In the same paragraph (really, the _same_ paragraph in consecutive sentences), you say that they are focused too much on looks and not performance, then say they should be making more bling for teens. Completely self-contradictory.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bboiprfsr*
> 
> This is my opinion, but the Ola and Taku ( http://www.cryorig.com/news.php?id=60&page=1) pc cases are a step in a weird the wrong direction for their company. Many people have smartphones & laptops for portability, and a simple mini-HDMI cable can hook up a video to a TV / monitor. I thought Cryrorig catered to budget and looks at the same time, in regards to their arguably best bang-for-the-buck product, the H7, but a $200 price on the mini-itx case alone?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too much competition in cases are available in the market, including small-form factor cases for mini-itx and Intel's NUC (Next Unit of Computing).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those cases are made for a very large market in other parts of the world where they are very popular. The US is not the only market companies must appease.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bboiprfsr*
> 
> What do you guys think? Should cryorig be devoted to air cooling alone, like Noctua, or expand its product line into other categories, like Rosewill, Zalman and Corsair?


Rosewill, Zalman and Corsair? You would be hard pressed to find three companies more different. One makes and designs nothing and merely markets low cost items. One designs and makes all of their products with very specific target audience. One designs and markets products with the widest possible mass appeal.

I have no idea where your post was supposed to be heading, but it makes very little sense to me, and seems to be absent of a lot of information.


----------



## bboiprfsr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Ok, this is one of the oddest posts I have seen in some time......
> I would say the fact that their coolers are among the top performers at their price points, perform as well or better than the more expensive direct Noctua competitive unit makes the above a rather erroneous statement.
> In the same paragraph (really, the _same_ paragraph in consecutive sentences), you say that they are focused too much on looks and not performance, then say they should be making more bling for teens. Completely self-contradictory.
> Those cases are made for a very large market in other parts of the world where they are very popular. The US is not the only market companies must appease.
> Rosewill, Zalman and Corsair? You would be hard pressed to find three companies more different. One makes and designs nothing and merely markets low cost items. One designs and makes all of their products with very specific target audience. One designs and markets products with the widest possible mass appeal.
> 
> I have no idea where your post was supposed to be heading, but it makes very little sense to me, and seems to be absent of a lot of information.


You have a misunderstanding. I *never* said they are too focused on looks and not performance. Aesthetics are a good thing







I'm making a troll remark on Noctua's brand of performance over style. That doesn't implicate that Cryorig doesn't have both. You're putting words in my mouth @ciarlatano. I'm merely making a criticism on some of their upcoming products, which isn't odd as a post at all. People criticize upcoming products all the time in the market.

Furthermore, I am simply making a claim that given their selling point on aesthetics/looks (which sways people to consider buying their products since Noctua's lack of aesthetics is a _dealbreaker_ for some), they should introduce more cryorig PC components aside from CPU coolers, such as more fans (in terms of more options to choose from). Example: Corsair has how many different fan products? Noctua has how many types of fans? Just saying, cryrorig could have more variations of fans. How is that a bad thing?

Lastly, I end my post with a question, should they remain a specialty company focused on air-cooling (like Noctua) or should they have a diverse profile (like Corsair, NZXT, etc) with a generous range of accessories and components among cases. Some companies simply focus on a limited range of products. Get my drift? Sorry you were confused.

Again, RECAP: I acknowledged Cryorig for their selling points, and I wished they could offer more products that go with those selling points, rather than diverge from that with small-form factor cases that is on another end of the spectrum w/o the cryorig logo. Example: people buy Nike shoes because of the logo rather than an unbranded shoe. Just my thoughts. #umadbro? EDIT: #uconfusedbro?

When I said Cryorig "is really emphasizing aesthetics", that's their marketing strategy. I am acknowledging them for that versus companies who don't care about looks. You're calling it erroneous as if I made a mistake hahaha. funny


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bboiprfsr*
> 
> You have a misunderstanding. I *never* said they are too focused on looks and not performance. Aesthetics are a good thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm making a troll remark on Noctua's brand of performance over style. That doesn't implicate that Cryorig doesn't have both. You're putting words in my mouth @ciarlatano. I'm merely making a criticism on some of their upcoming products, which isn't odd as a post at all. People criticize upcoming products all the time in the market.
> 
> Furthermore, I am simply making a claim that given their selling point on aesthetics/looks (which sways people to consider buying their products since Noctua's lack of aesthetics is a _dealbreaker_ for some), they should introduce more cryorig PC components aside from CPU coolers, such as more fans (in terms of more options to choose from). Example: Corsair has how many different fan products? Noctua has how many types of fans? Just saying, cryrorig could have more variations of fans. How is that a bad thing?
> 
> Lastly, I end my post with a question, should they remain a specialty company focused on air-cooling (like Noctua) or should they have a diverse profile (like Corsair, NZXT, etc) with a generous range of accessories and components among cases. Some companies simply focus on a limited range of products. Get my drift? Sorry you were confused.
> 
> Again, RECAP: I acknowledged Cryorig for their selling points, and I wished they could offer more products that go with those selling points, rather than diverge from that with small-form factor cases that is on another end of the spectrum w/o the cryorig logo. Example: people buy Nike shoes because of the logo rather than an unbranded shoe. Just my thoughts. #umadbro? EDIT: #uconfusedbro?


Got it. Totally didn't understand your post.

And, yes, I do think they should make an awesome mid-Tower. But, I also don't think they should cheapen themselves selling being parts, nor do I think they should go mainstream at the expense of what they do best.


----------



## doyll

I'm with ciarlatano here @bboiprfsr i that I interpreted your post pretty much as he did.








R1 realy does perform as well as D15. Noc has not improved their big coolers in way too many years. The D15 is no better than 'classic' NH-D14. You put the same fans on D15 as D15 comes with and it often cools slightly better. Yet every day we see Noc groupies, zealots and cult followers spouting off "Noc is the best! Blah! Blah!"

Yeah, I say classic (like Sivler Arrow, HR-02, True Spirit, and other 5+ year old coolers that are still today just as good as best new coolers. .. These old coolers are like a 30-40 year old classic cars .. some are as good as modern ones.

The computer component industry is so competitive these days and so full of cultist and zealot groupie followers .. most of who read the advertising hype from manufacturers and their paid shill reviewers who are usually just as illiterate with no idea how things really work or how to properly conduct accurate testing .. the industry is not about better products any more







It's about who can push the best advertising hype and shill reviewers.


----------



## ruffhi

I saw this in another thread ... thought I would post it here too. Apologies if it has already been posted.


----------



## ruffhi

But wait ... there is more ... Here is a paper cooler from the folks at Cryorig. It should fit in any size computer case.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Joke!!! It is just a depth gauge.




(Image is hot linked)

You have to love cryorig ... they included this comment ...

_What's more! There will also be height markers for popular coolers from be quiet! Coolermaster, Noctua and more! If there is any request for additional height markers for other models and brands just write in to [email protected] and CRYORIG will add them to the list._


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I saw this in another thread ... thought I would post it here too. Apologies if it has already been posted.










Not the bearded talking head!
















His brains are on his face, not in his head. He says to get NH-D15 instead of NH-D15S and sell one fan to get back some of the expense.







What about it's 77-78mm center CPU toward PCIe socket blocking PCIe socket on many motherboards.









Wait for ciarlatano to tell you his thoughts about talking head.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> But wait ... there is more ... Here is a paper cooler from the folks at Cryorig. It should fit in any size computer case.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Joke!!! It is just a depth gauge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Image is hot linked)
> 
> 
> 
> You have to love cryorig ... they included this comment ...
> 
> _What's more! There will also be height markers for popular coolers from be quiet! Coolermaster, Noctua and more! If there is any request for additional height markers for other models and brands just write in to [email protected] and CRYORIG will add them to the list._



















I have one I've been using for years now to check case CPU clearance. Ruler scale on side, a piece of string and you know what cooler height will fit.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not the bearded talking head!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> His brains are on his face, not in his head. He says to get NH-D15 instead of NH-D15S and sell one fan to get back some of the expense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What about it's 77-78mm center CPU toward PCIe socket blocking PCIe socket on many motherboards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait for ciarlatano to tell you his thoughts about talking head.


I don't really have much of an issue with him.....but it could be because I have only seen around 4-5 of his videos. He seems to actually test the components he reviews and compares them to direct competitors (unlike sites with a misplaced Z in the name), and actually seems to know how to install them by himself and what the performance results actually mean (unlike channels with Pee Wee Herman look and sound alikes paid advertisers posing as reviewers Peanuts cartoon characters NCIX employees very little computer knowledge). The fact that his results tend to line up closely with what I have tested first hand, and that he is not afraid to call a bad product exactly that also helps.

I also happen to trust this Olymp result more than others I have seen to date.

But, yeah, the whole buy a D15 and sell a fan rather than buying a D15S makes no sense.


----------



## VSG

He assumed that the Cryorig R1 Ultimate and R1 Universal only differ in fan thickness, and that the NH-D15 just has one more fan than the NH-D15S.


----------



## doyll

Yeah carlatano, at least he does know more than many, but .. talking heads are still talking heads.









I'll take geggeg's word about the D15 bit.








I've got both R1's and both cool the same with same fans, but they are not identical. The Universal has it's pipes formed differently which is the slight size diffidence in them. I can't remember for sure, but I think the fin packs are the same size and placement.


----------



## Shneiky

Not to mention that he has the hearing potential of a potato. A lot of those coolers that were worth twice as much and performing a bit less were giving a ton of dB less. As they say - silence is golden - at least for me.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> Not to mention that he has the hearing potential of a potato. A lot of those coolers that were worth twice as much and performing a bit less were giving a ton of dB less. As they say - silence is golden - at least for me.


Good point!








I have no problem with 60-65c @ 30-35dBA, but 55-60c @ 40-45dBA is totally unexceptable.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> Not to mention that he has the hearing potential of a potato. A lot of those coolers that were worth twice as much and performing a bit less were giving a ton of dB less. As they say - silence is golden - at least for me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Good point!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have no problem with 60-65c @ 30-35dBA, but 55-60c @ 40-45dBA is totally unexceptable.


I seem to recall him being a big CLC fan......so anything under 50 dB would be relatively quiet to him.


----------



## Kutalion

Prices of cryorig in his charts are absolutely ******ed. They are nowhere near that expencive. 60 pounds for H7 lol! Also lack of noise testing makes the whole test quite useless.


----------



## bboiprfsr

He recommended the H5 <3 <3


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Prices of cryorig in his charts are absolutely ******ed. They are nowhere near that expencive. 60 pounds for H7 lol! Also lack of noise testing makes the whole test quite useless.


Well, what could he do though? There is no real retail channel in the UK so he had to go with 3rd party prices on Amazon. Inflated, and he mentions it, but that is how it goes. People are really not willing to buy goods that need to be pass customs and duty.


----------



## bboiprfsr

He is right on one thing though. At the end, he made a notable remark on the Cryorig brand being oriented towards the enthusiasts. Damn right!







Owning their products does make me feel good inside if you know what i mean









Anyways, behold! A Cryorig C7 appears






Very quiet. My girlfriend put the computer near the kitchen/dining area, so the refrigerator makes more noise than the computer.
specs: intel i5-6500 o.c. 10,000ghz, ASUS H170M-PLUS/CSM mobo #mofo, Team Elite Plus 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory, OCZ TRION 150 480GB SSD, WD Black 1TB, HIS Radeon R9 270 2GB, DIYPC Cuboid-B MicroATX, Cooling Silencer MK III 600W PSU, Intel 7260HMWDTX1 (don't buy it - goes to sleep mode a lot and have to restart it often to turn wifi back on), Asus BC-12B1ST Blu-Ray (b/c blue fits the theme), and Cryorig C7 cooler.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Note: My girlfriend built her PC for her birthday. I just bought her the parts and mixed it in with leftover used parts of my own. Sorry @Doyll senpai about the airblower. LOL *had to think of a creative way to reuse the stock intel fan*.







Didn't stress out about cable management b/c i was teaching her what each component did, like sata means Serial Advanced Technology Attachment or cpu means Central Processing Unit or SSD means solid state drive or www means world wide web.

I know bad cable management means the accumulation of dust, and dust is bad for airflow. Will have to do it work on it some other time.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

My buddies pc running an R1 Ultimate that he bought on my recommendation.


----------



## Echoa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> My buddies pc running an R1 Ultimate that he bought on my recommendation.


Looks awful....


----------



## bboiprfsr

Dang man that is hella color coordinated. i'm jealous


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Prices of cryorig in his charts are absolutely ******ed. They are nowhere near that expencive. 60 pounds for H7 lol! Also lack of noise testing makes the whole test quite useless.


While Cryorig are hard to find here, H5 is about £40 and H7 is about £32. I just looked on Amazon and they are showing as £54 & £36. Alternate.co.uk (I think they are actually in Germany and ship from there) is UK dealer, as is ebuyer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well, what could he do though? There is no real retail channel in the UK so he had to go with 3rd party prices on Amazon. Inflated, and he mentions it, but that is how it goes. People are really not willing to buy goods that need to be pass customs and duty.


Anything purchased from any EU country has no duty or customs coming into UK. Buying from another country in EU is similar buying from another state in USA. The VAT rates between countries are all within 2-3% and we pay the VAT in country of origin. Shipping costs from other EU countries is 2 to 3 times as much costing about £10 while in country it is sometimes free. The size and populating of UK means shipping costs are quite low, for example Texas is 268,597 square miles with a population of 26.96 million compared to UK being only 94,058.3 square miles with a population of 64.1 million. About a third the size with more than twice the population makes for low delivery costs.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> My buddies pc running an R1 Ultimate that he bought on my recommendation.


The CustoMod R1 covers are available in 6 colors (black, white, red, green, blue & orange) are a really nice custom accessory.

Their interactive webpage allows us to select the color of motherboard and cooler cover so we can see what each color will look like before we buy them.








http://www.cryorig.com/customod_r1.php


----------



## kaivorth

Following Questions for any H7 owners
H7 cooler height without the cover on top? I have a build that's going to be really close, I can shimmy the fan down a bit.
Can this be mounted horizontally over the memory slots if they're normal size?

Any Hadron owners attempt to try one of these H7's? I know the M9i will fit, trying to push the limit.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaivorth*
> 
> Following Questions for any H7 owners
> H7 cooler height without the cover on top? I have a build that's going to be really close, I can shimmy the fan down a bit.
> Can this be mounted horizontally over the memory slots if they're normal size?
> 
> Any Hadron owners attempt to try one of these H7's? I know the M9i will fit, *trying to push the limit*.


Ummmmm - http://www.cryorig.com/c1.php

Or are you "trying to push the limit......of $35"?


----------



## kaivorth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Ummmmm - http://www.cryorig.com/c1.php
> 
> Or are you "trying to push the limit......of $35"?


C1 is too expensive, and might get in the way of my top fans.

I'm just trying to see if I have a good chance of fitting a H7 in my Hadron. With the cover off I might have a chance, just need to know the height.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaivorth*
> 
> Following Questions for any H7 owners
> H7 cooler height without the cover on top? I have a build that's going to be really close, I can shimmy the fan down a bit.
> Can this be mounted horizontally over the memory slots if they're normal size?
> 
> Any Hadron owners attempt to try one of these H7's? I know the M9i will fit, trying to push the limit.


If it was to fit it would be very tight. The cover is only
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaivorth*
> 
> Following Questions for any H7 owners
> H7 cooler height without the cover on top? I have a build that's going to be really close, I can shimmy the fan down a bit.
> Can this be mounted horizontally over the memory slots if they're normal size?
> 
> Any Hadron owners attempt to try one of these H7's? I know the M9i will fit, trying to push the limit.


Sorry I can't help, but at a guess it won't fit. Have you considered True Spirit 120?


----------



## Hionmaiden

It would seem that the air coolers from Cryorig are definitely more popular than the AIO. I've rarely seen anyone with them, or using them. It kind of baffles me that every person who decides to go with an AIO will 95% of the time get a crap Corsair variant. There vastly more expensive, and offer worse performance, and are noisier. I wish people did research more. Cryorig deserve a massive boost in sales from the A40/ult/80. For £67 mine smashes every other unit in the price range, and even out performs the kraken x61. I don't see how cryorig make a profit on the a40 ultimate, it's such a bargain for the price I paid.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hionmaiden*
> 
> It would seem that the air coolers from Cryorig are definitely more popular than the AIO. I've rarely seen anyone with them, or using them. It kind of baffles me that every person who decides to go with an AIO will 95% of the time get a crap Corsair variant. There vastly more expensive, and offer worse performance, and are noisier. I wish people did research more. Cryorig deserve a massive boost in sales from the A40/ult/80. For £67 mine smashes every other unit in the price range, and even out performs the kraken x61. I don't see how cryorig make a profit on the a40 ultimate, it's such a bargain for the price I paid.


People love the little light up sailboats. It's really that simple. They think that there is actually any difference in these Aseteks other than the logo and fans. Even the A40 Ultimate is nothing more than an H115 which is nothing more than a Thermaltake Water 2.0 Somethingorother (I have forgotten the name). SSDD, nothing new here.

And, before you go off on an A40 Ultimate is better than an X61 tangent......the X61 has far better noise/performance than the A40H115UltimateWater. The thicker high fpi 240mm design needs far more air to to the same thing as a slimmer 280mm.

But, yes, Cryorig should have a bigger piece of the CLC pie. Their downfall was getting into it too late.


----------



## TiezZ BE

Changed the fan for when I try to tickle that 6700k a little bit. And it doesn't look that bad either, but my case doesn't have a window...


----------



## ruffhi

I've decided to draw a line under my build. Some items remain on the wish list ... and I will get around to those as and when I can.

This build has 9 x 120 Balanced fans in it. Seven in the pedestal providing 'push' cooling and two in the main case blowing air over the motherboard. They are controlled by an Aquaero and are currently sitting at 400rpms (fixed). I may or may not add a curve depending on running temps.










CaseLabs S5 with Pedestal
Motherboard: ASUS X99-M WS
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz
RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ Series 64GB (4 x 16GB) DDR4 3200
Liquid cooled with 2 x 360 rads, Monsoon reservoir, heatkiller IV CPU block, Cryorig fans up the wazoo

More pictures in my build log.


----------



## Biobalance

Hey, can you pls advise me any good shop with worldwide delivery, when I can buy CRYORIG production?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biobalance*
> 
> Hey, can you pls advise me any good shop with worldwide delivery, when I can buy CRYORIG production?


I don't know of any. Tell us what country are you in and someone here may know of a company that will deliver to you.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> People love the little light up sailboats. It's really that simple.


Corsair also had an insanely large marketing department, and they quickly partnered up with several larger names out there to push their name even further (Linus Tech Tips comes to mind as one), and their product is distributed throughout most major retailers within a week or so of official launch (local stores here had the ML fans in stock within three days of the reviews going live)... Then add in agreements for shelf space and large amounts of signage on said shelves in high traffic areas and it seems like people are easily moved to believing their products are not only better, but a special status symbol as well. Or something.

For an AIO, I'd love to buy one of the Cryorig ones for my benching rig, but lack of local availability hurts them. Of course, such is easily fixed by sending an email into support, but there's nothing quite as satisfying as bring able to walk into a store and pick up the product right then and there.

Was really fun to see a friend's boyfriend get all envious of my Cryorig R1 Ultimate the instant he stepped into our place though!


----------



## GMcDougal

Would an h7 have any issues taking a 6600k to 4.5ghz?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GMcDougal*
> 
> Would an h7 have any issues taking a 6600k to 4.5ghz?


No. Or yes. Or maybe.

It entirely depends on the CPU and the voltage required to get it there, and if it can get there at all.


----------



## bboiprfsr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GMcDougal*
> 
> Would an h7 have any issues taking a 6600k to 4.5ghz?


Ideally, it can, _but like my bro, ciarlatano, says,_ it depends on your cpu (and its voltage) along with other factors, like case ventilation/airflow plus case fans xD

*Don't believe me*?
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2015/09/22/cryorig_h7_cpu_air_cooler_review/3

http://www.hardwareslave.com/reviews/hardware/cooling/cryorig-h7-cpu-cooler-review/6/


http://www.pcgameware.co.uk/reviews/cpu-coolers/cryorig-h7-cpu-cooler-review/


http://techicize.com/cryorig-h7-cpu-cooler-review/


----------



## GMcDougal

I understand. Should i just go with a h5? Im only seeing 2-3c difference between the two in reviews so i doubt this will make much difference


----------



## bboiprfsr

It really depends on your needs/preferences. Based on internet talk/speculation, the H7 is one hell of a deal for $35. In fact, it's been sold out a few times on newegg. The H5 ult/universal is $47.

*So what does an extra $12 give you?* (comparing the h5 ultimate vs h7)
8 heatpipes vs 6 heatpipes
more airflow (76 vs 49cfm)
slightly quieter profile (1-2 dBa)
a couple degrees cooler at overclocked load

Other than that, i never actually used an H7. It looks cute though.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GMcDougal*
> 
> Would an h7 have any issues taking a 6600k to 4.5ghz?


I agree with the above replies.

If you want to do serious overclocking get more cooling.

Comparing cooler is great, but optimizing case airflow will almost always result in lower temps than just using better coolers.
For example usign R1 instead of H7 is about 6c improvement.
Optimizing case is 5-17c improvement.
Ideal temp of airflow into cooler is 3-5c above room ambient
Typical cooler intake air temp is 10-20c above room ambient
Optimized case airflow gives 5-17c improvement

5th topic in 'Ways to Better Cooling' linked in my sig give basics of optimizing case airflow.


----------



## Biobalance

Hi everyone!
I dont like a fan's wire fixing in coolers. Something like that:

(at pic - Cryorig H5 ultimate)
Fixing with wire seems unreliable.

But mount a fan to a cooler with bolts looks cool and reliably:


(Cryorig C1)

Why almost all manufacturers use fixing wires in coolers?


----------



## Hionmaiden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> People love the little light up sailboats. It's really that simple. They think that there is actually any difference in these Aseteks other than the logo and fans. Even the A40 Ultimate is nothing more than an H115 which is nothing more than a Thermaltake Water 2.0 Somethingorother (I have forgotten the name). SSDD, nothing new here.
> 
> And, before you go off on an A40 Ultimate is better than an X61 tangent......the X61 has far better noise/performance than the A40H115UltimateWater. The thicker high fpi 240mm design needs far more air to to the same thing as a slimmer 280mm.
> 
> But, yes, Cryorig should have a bigger piece of the CLC pie. Their downfall was getting into it too late.


I used an x61 in the same build as now, and the A40 ultimate gives me better overall temps by a couple degrees. That's why I said it was better. Plus the x61 is almost double the price in the UK.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hionmaiden*
> 
> I used an x61 in the same build as now, and the A40 ultimate gives me better overall temps by a couple degrees. That's why I said it was better. Plus the x61 is almost double the price in the UK.


Cryorig CLCs are better than many CLCs, but they are still CLCs and limited by the CLC patent rights. This combined with marketing hype leading many new users to think they are 'water cooling' like custom loops or or pre-assembled and filled kits like Swiftech and EK Predator when they have far more negative differences than positive similarities.

The CLC push started when?? in mid/late 2011 ?? In the last couple of years I've seen a steadily increasing number of people having CLC failures (mostly pumps) with most of them coming back to air cooling wtih as good and better cooling at near silent noise levels.

Bottom line is any water cooled system is more prone to problems than air cooling .. and needs more maintenance. It's simply the nature of the beast.


----------



## goonerGG

Hey guys,

I just installed the Cryorig R1 Universal since I want to overclock my cpu which is the i7 950 but I believe there is something wrong with the temperatures.
OCCT Results :
    

As you can see, I'm around 60° which I think is quite high, I didn't overclock it yet.
After reading this review : http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/cpu_air_cooler_mega_test/3 , I expected lower temperatures to be honest.
My case is the Phanteks Enthoo Pro by the way.

What do you guys think ?

Thanks


----------



## MicroCat

Temps seem a tad high. Is this after a single mount? Or many?

What is the ambient temp and the cooler intake temp? What voltage is the 950 running at? Which Motherboard?

Off topic, but depending on the MB, could swap out the 950 for a sub-$100 hexcore 95W 56xx Xeon and get much better performance at higher clocks with lower temps than the quad 140W 950.

I think @doyll still runs a Bloomfield (for historical purposes) and might chime in with his 45nm insights.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

For the i7 950 which is a 130w tdp cpu, it is not bad temps you got.

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goonerGG*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I just installed the Cryorig R1 Universal since I want to overclock my cpu which is the i7 950 but I believe there is something wrong with the temperatures.
> OCCT Results :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://someimage.com/XQ7GkeN https://someimage.com/t7ecgJV https://someimage.com/plLK981 https://someimage.com/zMINXTJ https://someimage.com/c0NLteF
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, I'm around 60° which I think is quite high, I didn't overclock it yet.
> After reading this review : http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/cpu_air_cooler_mega_test/3 , I expected lower temperatures to be honest.
> My case is the Phanteks Enthoo Pro by the way.
> 
> What do you guys think ?
> 
> Thanks


This is a classic 'my cats is taller than the flower pot. How tall is my cat?' I have no idea how tall you cat is because flower pots come in many sizes.









60c sounds on the warm side if your room is 21c and the air gong into cooler is 24c (36c delta). But we have no idea what your room temp is or more importantly what your cooler intake air temp is. If your room is 25c and your case is not flowing air properly the cooler intake cold be 40c which means CPU is only 20c warmer than the air going into cooler .. and that is very cool .. as in very good cooler performance. You might find 2nd or 5th post in 'Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig of interest.

Your images are rather small and I can't really read them but if that is a 15 minute graph it would appear the load temp never stabilized., it is slowing getting hotter and hotter. My experience is in a case with optimized airflow both high and low temps stabilize in a couple minutes .. like in this graph


----------



## doyll

dbl post


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> dbl post


I liked the 2nd one better. Simpler. Easier to read. But now lost forever.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> I liked the 2nd one better. Simpler. Easier to read. But now lost forever.


What was it better? Same image with this wording.
Quote:


> While 60c sounds on the warm side, we really don't know what is causing it. Your images are so small it's hard to read the data. We need to know what the cooler intake air temp is. Then we can subtract that temp from the CPU temp and know how what the difference is. You might find 'Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig of interest. 5th post is about case airlfow . 1st post is index, click on topic to see it, but if that is a 15 minute graph it would appear the load temp never stabilized., but was slowing getting hotter and hotter. My experience is in a case with optimized airflow both high and low temps stabilize in a couple minutes .. like in this graph


Is it because I didn't say my cat is bigger in 2nd one?


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What was it better? Same image with this wording.
> Is it because I didn't say my cat is bigger in 2nd one?


It was the abbreviation, which is indeterminably too long a word to express the skimpy succinctness. Time for a cat nap.


----------



## goonerGG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> Temps seem a tad high. Is this after a single mount? Or many?
> 
> What is the ambient temp and the cooler intake temp? What voltage is the 950 running at? Which Motherboard?
> 
> Off topic, but depending on the MB, could swap out the 950 for a sub-$100 hexcore 95W 56xx Xeon and get much better performance at higher clocks with lower temps than the quad 140W 950.
> 
> I think @doyll still runs a Bloomfield (for historical purposes) and might chime in with his 45nm insights.


It's after a single mount, the ambient temp was 25c, the 950 was running at 1.29 vcore and the motherboard is the DX58S0.
Unfortunately, I can't get a Xeon because of my mb.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> This is a classic 'my cats is taller than the flower pot. How tall is my cat?' I have no idea how tall you cat is because flower pots come in many sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 60c sounds on the warm side if your room is 21c and the air gong into cooler is 24c (36c delta). But we have no idea what your room temp is or more importantly what your cooler intake air temp is. If your room is 25c and your case is not flowing air properly the cooler intake cold be 40c which means CPU is only 20c warmer than the air going into cooler .. and that is very cool .. as in very good cooler performance. You might find 2nd or 5th post in 'Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig of interest.
> 
> Your images are rather small and I can't really read them but if that is a 15 minute graph it would appear the load temp never stabilized., it is slowing getting hotter and hotter. My experience is in a case with optimized airflow both high and low temps stabilize in a couple minutes .. like in this graph


Sorry for the images, I don't know why they're so small, updated my message with the gallery link, it should be fine now.
How can I find out my cooler intake air temp ?


----------



## EvFan123

It seems like Overclockers in the UK could be stocking Cryorig products, I asked them why they don't sell their CPU coolers, and they replied
Quote:


> We are currently working on getting the stock. We are waiting a reply from Cryorig regarding stock. I can not give an ETA at this moment in time but we will hopefully be listing them.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvFan123*
> 
> It seems like Overclockers in the UK could be stocking Cryorig products, I asked them why they don't sell their CPU coolers, and they replied


overclocker.co.uk is owned by caseking.de

When Caseking starts carryign Cryorig we will have them in UK

ebuyer.com is a Cryorig dealer, but has almost no stock.

At this time the best way to get Cryorig in UK is on Amazon.


----------



## EvFan123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> overclocker.co.uk is owned by caseking.de
> 
> When Caseking starts carryign Cryorig we will have them in UK
> 
> ebuyer.com is a Cryorig dealer, but has almost no stock.
> 
> At this time the best way to get Cryorig in UK is on Amazon.


I just hope Ebuyer or Amazon get stock soon. Although Cryorig did say to me that new stocks of the R1 and H5 have arrived in the UK today.


----------



## Hionmaiden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Cryorig CLCs are better than many CLCs, but they are still CLCs and limited by the CLC patent rights. This combined with marketing hype leading many new users to think they are 'water cooling' like custom loops or or pre-assembled and filled kits like Swiftech and EK Predator when they have far more negative differences than positive similarities.
> 
> The CLC push started when?? in mid/late 2011 ?? In the last couple of years I've seen a steadily increasing number of people having CLC failures (mostly pumps) with most of them coming back to air cooling wtih as good and better cooling at near silent noise levels.
> 
> Bottom line is any water cooled system is more prone to problems than air cooling .. and needs more maintenance. It's simply the nature of the beast.


Cryorig give a 6 year warranty, and if the pump fails, or any leak happens they will reimburse you the total cost of everything that was damaged. I had already asked a member of Cryorig about this, and that is what they said. Whereas Corsair will only refund partial failures i think it's now $150 maximum for a gpu. Cryorig definitely have the best warranty and reimbursement that I've seen in the CLC market. This is another deciding factor that made me get the A40ult. I don't like air cooling, it makes my system look ugly, even with a sexy cryorig R1 it wouldn't look as good as it does now. I'm all for CLC as the reimbursement makes it less of an issue, but a custom loop won't give you any reimbursement.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hionmaiden*
> 
> Cryorig give a 6 year warranty, and if the pump fails, or any leak happens they will reimburse you the total cost of everything that was damaged. I had already asked a member of Cryorig about this, and that is what they said. Whereas Corsair will only refund partial failures i think it's now $150 maximum for a gpu. Cryorig definitely have the best warranty and reimbursement that I've seen in the CLC market. This is another deciding factor that made me get the A40ult. I don't like air cooling, it makes my system look ugly, even with a sexy cryorig R1 it wouldn't look as good as it does now. I'm all for CLC as the reimbursement makes it less of an issue, but a custom loop won't give you any reimbursement.


Your faith in these CLCs remains to be seen. You claim Corsar is now only paying up to $150, but laws make them pay the cost of the loss. Now Cryorig have great customer support, but what they will be doing in 4, 5, 6 years from now is .. well. 4, 5, 6 years from now. Things can change dramatically as years roll by.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hionmaiden*
> 
> I'm all for CLC as the reimbursement makes it less of an issue, but a custom loop won't give you any reimbursement.


And a CLC won't give you quiet top tier cooling, so that is the trade off.

Your faith in reimbursements goes a bit further than it probably should. You need to remember that if there is even the slightest chance that it can be attributed to any user error or misuse in any way, you aren't getting reimbursed anything. BTW - I have had ~30 or so CLCs in my system for test purposes. These were short term installs as I would never actually use one. I have had significantly more issues with Asetek CLCs (which included two motherboard and one PSU replacement) than with the custom loop that is a long term install (which I have had no issues with).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goonerGG*
> 
> It's after a single mount, the ambient temp was 25c, the 950 was running at 1.29 vcore and the motherboard is the DX58S0.
> Unfortunately, I can't get a Xeon because of my mb.
> Sorry for the images, I don't know why they're so small, updated my message with the gallery link, it should be fine now.
> How can I find out my cooler intake air temp ?


Sorry, I missed your post.








*How to monitor air temperature different places inside of case:*

A cheap indoor/outdoor thermometer with a piece of insulated wire and a plastic clothspin works great.
Made up with floral wire and tape. We don't want anything to short out with metal.









Clip and position sensor where I want to check the temp. Make it easy to see what the air temp going into components actually is relative to room temp.








Optimum cooling is when air temps going into coolers only being 2-3c warmer than room.. 5c or less is good.
"Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig may be of interest. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it.


----------



## jura11

Hi guys

My brother bought me Cryorig R1 Universal over in US(when he bought,no one in UK has have one in stock) as my H100i started to fail(I'm getting high temps) and looks there is some sort of blockage/air lock

I've got question,my motherboard is ASRock X99 Extreme6 and I'm running 6x16GB RAM DDR4 2133MHz,RAM in questions are Corsair Vengeance LPX which I think are 34mm in height,right now I'm not sure if R1 Universal will fit under my RAM,in theory I can run them in 3 channel,but I would rather run them in quad channel

From measurments posted Doyll looks like one RAM slot with which I can have issue ?

Thanks in advance for any help,Jura


----------



## bboiprfsr

The Cryorig R1 universal should have ZERO ram interference.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bboiprfsr*
> 
> The Cryorig R1 universal should have ZERO ram interference.


This what I read,but I think this would applies for LGA115x,1366 etc,but not for X99 I think,hopefully people can confirm this

Thanks,Jura


----------



## bboiprfsr

i'm sorry

here is your answer
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/304447-cryorig-r1-universal-on-asus-x99-deluxe/


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> My brother bought me Cryorig R1 Universal over in US(when he bought,no one in UK has have one in stock) as my H100i started to fail(I'm getting high temps) and looks there is some sort of blockage/air lock
> 
> I've got question,my motherboard is ASRock X99 Extreme6 and I'm running 6x16GB RAM DDR4 2133MHz,RAM in questions are Corsair Vengeance LPX which I think are 34mm in height,right now I'm not sure if R1 Universal will fit under my RAM,in theory I can run them in 3 channel,but I would rather run them in quad channel
> 
> From measurments posted Doyll looks like one RAM slot with which I can have issue ?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help,Jura


If memory serves, front of fan on R1 Universal is 48.5mm from enter of CPU, and Asrock X99 is about 53mm center CPU to RAM socket. I don't know of any ATX motherboards that have RAM sockets closer than that. toward RAM Socket. But there is clearance issue with back RAM sockets.

Edit: Give me a few minutes to dig out my drawings and I'll check


----------



## doyll

Was an easy find


----------



## jura11

Hi Doyll

Thanks for drawing I found them too over this thread and I've them already and looks like R1 Universal will interfere with two of slots

Here is picture what I mean I would like to run RAM in quad channel mode



Thanks,Jura


----------



## jura11

Here are pictures what I mean,sorry for this guys

This is 3 channel mode



And here is my current Quad channel mode



Thanks,Jura


----------



## bboiprfsr

Do you have a dremel? Maybe you can cut it. jk


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bboiprfsr*
> 
> Do you have a dremel? Maybe you can cut it. jk


Hope so I don't need anything to cut it,if I wouldn't be able to run quad channel then 3 channel should be OK for time being and if its doesn't help,then I will remove one heatsink from RAM

Just no cutting I think right now,will see,my brother will be back next Friday and we will see.

Thanks,Jura


----------



## kaivorth

Just got my M9i. Replaced a CM TX3, which replaced the stock cooler.

Load results playing Insurgency for an hour:

Intel Stock Cooler: 70C
Coolermaster TX3: 60C
Cryorig M9i: 50C

I don't think it's supposed to be much better than the TX3, but I hated the push pin on the TX3, saw the Cryorig with the bolt on installation, and just returned the TX3. Very happy now. Temps would be even lower if I had proper Airflow in the Hadron Air (May fix in the future)


----------



## bboiprfsr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaivorth*
> 
> Just got my M9i. Replaced a CM TX3, which replaced the stock cooler.
> 
> Load results playing Insurgency for an hour:
> 
> Intel Stock Cooler: 70C
> Coolermaster TX3: 60C
> Cryorig M9i: 50C
> 
> I don't think it's supposed to be much better than the TX3, but I hated the push pin on the TX3, saw the Cryorig with the bolt on installation, and just returned the TX3. Very happy now. Temps would be even lower if I had proper Airflow in the Hadron Air (May fix in the future)


woah nice job man! Based on a few reviews, the cyrorig m9 exceeds its expectations for a 90mm square fan / 124.6mm h heatsink. I'm impressed. You see, the m9i and tx3 share a couple things in common in terms of specs. However, the quality of the components, including the heat sink, heat pipes, aluminum fins, thermal paste, and overall design, makes a big impact on the thermal performance. Not sure if temps would be lower in the evga Hadron Air lol. That case looks too compact for any airflow expansion. Pretty solid rig you have though. Cheers!


----------



## Valgaur

What is the specific X99 version that was mentioned in the Linus thread?


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> What is the specific X99 version that was mentioned in the Linus thread?


Hi there

As you can see above the pictures of motherboard layout,RAM are on both sides of RAM sockets and one side would interfere with cooler fins,yes you can fit in any slot,but you can't use in one or two slots RAM with heat spreaders,I think one slot you can use RAM with heatspreaders and in second in theory you can use use something like is LPX from Corsair which I'm running

Here is the drawing of the RI Universal



Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## doyll

The R1 Ultimate has 2mm more vertical RAM height clearance behind cooler, but 4.5mm less horizontal clearance between front of cooler and RAM .. only 12mm instead of 16.5mm.


----------



## kaivorth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bboiprfsr*
> 
> woah nice job man! Based on a few reviews, the cyrorig m9 exceeds its expectations for a 90mm square fan / 124.6mm h heatsink. I'm impressed. You see, the m9i and tx3 share a couple things in common in terms of specs. However, the quality of the components, including the heat sink, heat pipes, aluminum fins, thermal paste, and overall design, makes a big impact on the thermal performance. Not sure if temps would be lower in the evga Hadron Air lol. That case looks too compact for any airflow expansion. Pretty solid rig you have though. Cheers!


The solid base + bolt on mounting I believe are the biggest contributors.

Currently debating on drilling vent holes in the faceplate like another user on here, and installing a 120-140mm intake with a dust filter.

This case was so close to being the perfect itx case. Too many compromises to make it too similar to the hydro. Still a great compact case though.


----------



## charles4691

I have a question about Cryorig. I won their #CRYOlympicGIVEAWAY. And the winners are suppose to message Cryorig
their Mailing address on their Fan Page. Where the hell is that ?? I figured it was their FB page but I really don't know. I
tweeted them on Twitter, and have yet to hear any reply.I have till the end of August to reply to them ( I found out today
that I had won ) or else I will be forfeited..So again, does anyone here know where their Fan Page is located?? Thanks for any info


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charles4691*
> 
> I have a question about Cryorig. I won their #CRYOlympicGIVEAWAY. And the winners are suppose to message Cryorig
> their Mailing address on their Fan Page. Where the hell is that ?? I figured it was their FB page but I really don't know. I
> tweeted them on Twitter, and have yet to hear any reply.I have till the end of August to reply to them ( I found out today
> that I had won ) or else I will be forfeited..So again, does anyone here know where their Fan Page is located?? Thanks for any info


Fan page? For a cooling company? Is this a trick question?









Have to assume it's their FB page as that's where the contest originated. Unless it's this thread. Altho this is more of a ***** and praise page.

Have you contacted them at their 'fan' contact page: http://www.cryorig.com/contact_us.php


----------



## VSG

Congrats! I would say PM Steve @Steve-S and see.


----------



## charles4691

no trick question .

http://imgur.com/WIHWfvJ


----------



## VSG

Yeah that sounds like just sending a message on Facebook to that page.


----------



## charles4691

cool


----------



## charles4691

Have another question . Does anyone know if Cryorig in Taiwan has a phone # ? I mean it is 9:39am there,I could call if I had a #.


----------



## charles4691

update *** I got in contact with Cryorig ! All is taken care of . Thank you all who helped


----------



## Curseair

Is there any better and quieter fans for the R1 Ultimate than the stock ones that come with it?


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Curseair*
> 
> Is there any better and quieter fans for the R1 Ultimate than the stock ones that come with it?


edit: if as in "better" you mean quieter at idle: /edit back a few pages. Phanteks PH-F140HP

http://www.overclock.net/t/1461923/cryorig-fan-cooler-club-r1-ult-r1-uni-c1-h5-xf140-xt140/2190_30#post_25025677

Also recommended were Thermalright TY-147A but these were more expensive at the time and hard to get a hold of.


----------



## MicroCat

The Phanteks PH-F140HP is a good choice, but not to be confused with the Phanteks PH-F140HP II which is just as noisy or more so than the Cryorig 140mm - the HP II is the same as the F140MP which is a 1600rpm excessive noise generator / cooling fan. ;-)

The Phanteks F140XP is near identical to the HP (same blade design), 100rpm slower (1200rpm) and a couple dB quieter.

Other smoother, quieter options are the Noctua A15 PWM or NB-eLoop B14-PS. As well as the mythical TR 147A, if available.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> The Phanteks PH-F140HP is a good choice, but not to be confused with the Phanteks PH-F140HP II which is just as noisy or more so than the Cryorig 140mm - the HP II is the same as the F140MP which is a 1600rpm excessive noise generator / cooling fan. ;-)
> 
> The Phanteks F140XP is near identical to the HP (same blade design), 100rpm slower (1200rpm) and a couple dB quieter.
> 
> Other smoother, quieter options are the Noctua A15 PWM or NB-eLoop B14-PS. As well as the mythical TR 147A, if available.


You think the PH-F140HP_II is louder moving same amount of air as PH-F140HP?


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You think the PH-F140HP_II is louder moving same amount of air as PH-F140HP?


Yes, but my two samples were so weazy, rough and noisy above 1,000rpm could get care less if they moved more or less air. They went back for refund. Only matched by the terrible examples of the MP I had to return as well. Have some supposedly new stock inbound, sure hope these ones have had basic QA.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> Yes, but my two samples were so weazy, rough and noisy above 1,000rpm could get care less if they moved more or less air. They went back for refund. Only matched by the terrible examples of the MP I had to return as well. Have some supposedly new stock inbound, sure hope these ones have had basic QA.


The ones I got for my black TC14PE are quiet. I was running TY-147As' before and may go back to them, but not because of noise, because they have black housing instead of white housing. Black housing on black cooler looks better to me.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The ones I got for my black TC14PE are quiet. I was running TY-147As' before and may go back to them, but not because of noise, because they have black housing instead of white housing. Black housing on black cooler looks better to me.


The original HPs on my old TC14PE were quiet too. This last group of HP II/MP models not so much. Noisier, buzzier with more tonal artifacts than I expected or could live with. Probably a bad batch, but, any 140mm fan above 1200rpm tends to ruffle my fur.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> The original HPs on my old TC14PE were quiet too. This last group of HP II/MP models not so much. Noisier, buzzier with more tonal artifacts than I expected or could live with. Probably a bad batch, but, any 140mm fan above 1200rpm tends to ruffle my fur.


It's not just you. I found it to be the same, as did many others in this forum. The HP II/MP 140mm aren't great tonally. The best Phanteks 140mm as far as tone were the original 140TS, the HP/SP/XP are still very good, but something went wrong with the HPII/MP.

Not going to chime in on the "quieter and better" question until the inquiring poster clears up what he means.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It's not just you. I found it to be the same, as did many others in this forum. The HP II/MP 140mm aren't great tonally. The best Phanteks 140mm as far as tone were the original 140TS, the HP/SP/XP are still very good, but something went wrong with the HPII/MP.
> 
> Not going to chime in on the "quieter and better" question until the inquiring poster clears up what he means.


That's good and unfortunate to know. Thanks, ciarlatano! Going to save me a bunch of return and return again shipping costs.

"Quieter and Better" is self-evident on the internet. If I have to explain that to you....well...the internet has failed us again.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> "Quieter and Better" is self-evident on the internet. If I have to explain that to you....well...the internet has failed us again.


You might have to explain it to me









if Quieter, but not cooler. is that better ?
if Cooler but not quieter. is that better?
I guess we'll agree if quieter and cooler that must be better.

I fear the internet may be failing me so I am going outside to play in the sun


----------



## bboiprfsr

HOLY $(%*&@+^$(^&

https://twitter.com/CRYORIG/status/771377097080201216

i'm famous


----------



## MicroCat

Congrats, Chris! Be careful out on the street now - you will need to grow some thick fins - the always-exhausting air cooling paparazzi can make you blow your cool.


----------



## bboiprfsr

Thank you! Thank you!


----------



## KawasakiDragonn

people in store said H5 won't fit in S340, I prove him wrong X)


----------



## bboiprfsr

would you ever value a Best Buy or computer store employee? lol


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



nahh


----------



## doyll

I don't even 'value' what most computer repair shop employees spout as 'knowledge'.


----------



## dgershko

Would the cryorig R1 ultimate fit in a fractal node 304 case? If it fits, would it limit the size of any other components of the case? I'm thinking of getting a smaller case than my humongous H440 that takes up a large percentage of my desk....


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgershko*
> 
> Would the cryorig R1 ultimate fit in a fractal node 304 case? If it fits, would it limit the size of any other components of the case? I'm thinking of getting a smaller case than my humongous H440 that takes up a large percentage of my desk....


According to Fractal's spec sheet, it doesn't. But the Antec ISK 600 and Fractal Core 500 are 2 similar cases that do fit it.
Only thing to watch out for is whether it'll block the pcie slot, depends on the motherboard.

How long is your GPU btw?


----------



## dgershko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> According to Fractal's spec sheet, it doesn't. But the Antec ISK 600 and Fractal Core 500 are 2 similar cases that do fit it.
> Only thing to watch out for is whether it'll block the pcie slot, depends on the motherboard.
> 
> How long is your GPU btw?


It's 301mm. Haven't decided on what mobo to go with, thinking gigabyte z97n-wifi.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgershko*
> 
> It's 301mm. Haven't decided on what mobo to go with, thinking gigabyte z97n-wifi.


You could get a Jonsbo VR1 as well then, its a tower case so it takes up less space on your desk.


----------



## dgershko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> You could get a Jonsbo VR1 as well then, its a tower case so it takes up less space on your desk.


Wow, interesting case. No way to get it where I live though.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgershko*
> 
> Wow, interesting case. No way to get it where I live though.


Where do you live? Its a pretty new case and somewhat harder to find. It may be available in your country but just not in the regular shops.


----------



## MicroCat

The the Jonsbo W1 - max cooler height: 215mm and max gpu len: 320mm, so it's a svelte contender

Lian Li Q34 supports proper twin towers up to 180mm. But only itx gpus. Oopsie.

The Thermaltake Core V1 supports 149mm coolers out of the box - 5 mins with the dremel and the sky's the limit. Another 5 to sculpt-out the 285mm gpu limit.


----------



## rapkct

Best way to verify it is to do a test fit, like what I did with the Lancool. Granted, I've since moved over the R1 Ultimate to the other PC, which _barely_ fits with the G.Skills under the front fan.


----------



## doyll

Cryrig has "Compatablity Tester" origami models of cooler bottoms to check clearance with. Go to their website
http://www.cryorig.com/product.php

Click on the cooler you are interested in and scroll down to near the bottom and you will find it

as well as one for measuring case CPU clearance
http://www.cryorig.com/


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> The Thermaltake Core V1 supports 149mm coolers out of the box - 5 mins with the dremel and the sky's the limit. Another 5 to sculpt-out the 285mm gpu limit.


Would be a shame to waste a perfectly fine dremel wheel on such a case.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Would be a shame to waste a perfectly fine dremel wheel on such a case.


So...what cases do you like to waste a dremel wheel on?

All cases deserve a dremel wheel, some require 2 or 3 wheels and a hammer.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> So...what cases do you like to waste a dremel wheel on?
> 
> All cases deserve a dremel wheel, some require 2 or 3 wheels and a hammer.


Oh, it could certainly use a hammer, the bigger the better.


----------



## takt

Really want to join the club but having trouble finding any of the cryorig products in Canada. There was mention that they were going to be here sometime this summer, but we are at the tail end now and nothing.

Is there a better way to get this up north?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *takt*
> 
> Really want to join the club but having trouble finding any of the cryorig products in Canada. There was mention that they were going to be here sometime this summer, but we are at the tail end now and nothing.
> 
> Is there a better way to get this up north?


We will make an exception and make you a member anyway.








Really, anyone who is interested in Cryorig coolers is a member.









Give me a couple of day to try and locate a way to get Cryorig products to Canadian members. If you see me post something up, drop me a note to remind me.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

You used to be able to email their contact email and they could direct invoice (and ship from hq) if you lived in a country that didn't have a distributor.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> You used to be able to email their contact email and they could direct invoice (and ship from hq) if you lived in a country that didn't have a distributor.


Indeed!








I emailed Cryorig Steve asking if they are still doing this.


----------



## takt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> We will make an exception and make you a member anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really, anyone who is interested in Cryorig coolers is a member.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Give me a couple of day to try and locate a way to get Cryorig products to Canadian members. If you see me post something up, drop me a note to remind me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> You used to be able to email their contact email and they could direct invoice (and ship from hq) if you lived in a country that didn't have a distributor.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Indeed!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I emailed Cryorig Steve asking if they are still doing this.


Thanks guys!









Somehow I think it's more to do with our government and their importing/tax policies than Cryorig not wanting to sell here. I'm surprised it just hasn't happened yet since people have been asking how to get them here since 2014 or 2015.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *takt*
> 
> Thanks guys!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somehow I think it's more to do with our government and their importing/tax policies than Cryorig not wanting to sell here. I'm surprised it just hasn't happened yet since people have been asking how to get them here since 2014 or 2015.


Canada is not the only country without dealers. UK doesn't have a dealer either.















UK has two dealers, but only ebuyer is in UK. Alternate is in Germany with a UK website, so shipping costs are crazy! £9.90 minimum on each order pushes the cost of a cooler well above the competition.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Canada is not the only country without dealers. UK doesn't have a dealer either.


Alternate UK ?


----------



## bboiprfsr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Canada is not the only country without dealers. UK doesn't have a dealer either.


you sure?
http://www.cryorig.com/news.php?id=25

"Ebuyer http://www.ebuyer.com "


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Alternate UK ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bboiprfsr*
> 
> you sure?
> http://www.cryorig.com/news.php?id=25
> 
> "Ebuyer http://www.ebuyer.com "


I should have said that differenetly. I'll edit.

While we do have two dealers selling here, ebuyer is usualy out of stock as well as high priced .. and Alternate's £9.90 delivery makes them also way overpriced.
So even when products are available, the prices are not competitive with other similar coolers available here in UK.

2 year old news releases are usually not accurate.









I just heard from Cryorig
Quote:


> We're prepping the our Canadian store front, and should be ready in a month or two.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Alternate's £9.90 delivery makes them also way overpriced.


Alternate's prices are pretty bloated indeed even without shipping, its the same deal with Alternate Belgium. The only one with correct prices seems to be Alternate Germany (unsurprisingly).

Not sure why, but cryorig's availability seems pretty spotty globally


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Alternate's prices are pretty bloated indeed even without shipping, its the same deal with Alternate Belgium. The only one with correct prices seems to be Alternate Germany (unsurprisingly).
> 
> Not sure why, but cryorig's availability seems pretty spotty globally


The cooler industry is so bloated with product and marketing hype now. Competition is crazy! Distributors and retailers pick and choose what products they will stock. Stock cost lots of money and with the economy as poor as it is world wide they can't afford to have inventory that does not move rather quickly. So they try to choose the fastest moving products .. which are often not the best.









We've seen this happen with other long time top tier companies .. for example Thermalright, Scythe and Alpenfohn are often hard to find too. Sometimes as rare as hen's teeth and unicorn apples.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

^^^^
Went and did some research on the companies you mentioned and now I have to get my claws on one of the Alpenfohn Olymp coolers. . . Bad thing is that they don't sell em here in the USA. I know this is not the place to ask this but do you have any idea on how to get one?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> ^^^^
> Went and did some research on the companies you mentioned and now I have to get my claws on one of the Alpenfohn Olymp coolers. . . Bad thing is that they don't sell em here in the USA. I know this is not the place to ask this but do you have any idea on how to get one?


What is a deer with no eyes?
no eye deer
no i der
no idea
















did it.








I'm assume you are in USA


----------



## ruffhi

Follow up joke ... what do you call a deer with no eyes and no legs?

_Still no eye deer._


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Follow up joke ... what do you call a deer with no eyes and no legs?
> 
> _Still no eye deer._


Follow up of follow up joke ... what do you call a deer with .. never mind.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

The news of a Canadian store front going live in a few months is definitely a good thing! Would love to get another R1 Ultimate for hubby's rig, and then depending on the price two of the aio clc coolers for my benching rig ^_^


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Follow up of follow up joke ... what do you call a deer with .. never mind.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The cooler industry is so bloated with product and marketing hype now. Competition is crazy! Distributors and retailers pick and choose what products they will stock. Stock cost lots of money and with the economy as poor as it is world wide they can't afford to have inventory that does not move rather quickly. So they try to choose the fastest moving products .. which are often not the best.


My dear friend, they just want to make some doe and a quick buck.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> We've seen this happen with other long time top tier companies .. for example Thermalright, Scythe and Alpenfohn are often hard to find too. Sometimes as rare as hen's teeth and unicorn apples.


Altho, you're in the UK where rarities aren't always as rare as they mead you to believe.


----------



## Valgaur

Hello again people!

Been a while but I've been smashing my brain on what exactly I want to build for my next rig, and I think I've finally decided.

*Link for build!*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://pcpartpicker.com/list/xZcmD8



Do I stay with the 600W or go for a 500W PSU?

Also, what are your thoughts on the cooler? Good? Bad? Something else?

Thanks again for all the knowledge thats here. It's really been helpful!


----------



## MicroCat

I'd stay with the SF600 - it's a very good unit and much quieter than the Silverstone 500 SFX-L.

If the C1 will clear your motherboard, it's a very good choice.

Not sure how 2x 3.5" 7200rpm drives will fare in the M1. I've only used SSDs in that exquisitely cramped space. Have you considered using a single 4TB drive instead?


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> I'd stay with the SF600 - it's a very good unit and much quieter than the Silverstone 500 SFX-L.
> 
> If the C1 will clear your motherboard, it's a very good choice.
> 
> Not sure how 2x 3.5" 7200rpm drives will fare in the M1. I've only used SSDs in that exquisitely cramped space. Have you considered using a single 4TB drive instead?


Hmm... I could do that actually, would make more sense space wise anyways. If I'm really honest with myself I doubt i'll fill the 2TB I have currently. I just need to go through my current rig and clean it out. Games are eating most of the space, so the 500 SSD will hold most of that.

For the case currently I'm worried on temperature side for the rig as a whole with a 1080 reference in there. The C1 is fine for the cpu as I'll delid it for cooling bonuses







. butt he gpu is scary.

I'm currently debating doing a custom loop in the little guy....


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Hmm... I could do that actually, would make more sense space wise anyways. If I'm really honest with myself I doubt i'll fill the 2TB I have currently. I just need to go through my current rig and clean it out. Games are eating most of the space, so the 500 SSD will hold most of that.
> 
> For the case currently I'm worried on temperature side for the rig as a whole with a 1080 reference in there. The C1 is fine for the cpu as I'll delid it for cooling bonuses
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . butt he gpu is scary.
> 
> I'm currently debating doing a custom loop in the little guy....


1TB SSDs are getting cheaper too.

The reference 1080 wouldn't be the hottest GPU to ever be squished into the M1. And since it's a blower won't fill up that sweet little space with heat. Could install a 120mm intake below the blower if needed. A full custom loop would be best for sure, but much more work. I'm not against work. Just as long as I don't have to do it. ;-)


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> 1TB SSDs are getting cheaper too.
> 
> The reference 1080 wouldn't be the hottest GPU to ever be squished into the M1. And since it's a blower won't fill up that sweet little space with heat. Could install a 120mm intake below the blower if needed. A full custom loop would be best for sure, but much more work. I'm not against work. Just as long as I don't have to do it. ;-)


I think for a starting point I'll use the reference cooler with a fan on the bottom for extra force feed on the air department. Use the C1 for the cpu and off of those heat numbers then I'll decide on the water cooling option.

Might look into 1tb ssd later once water cooling happens for space saving. maybe


----------



## Valgaur

Forgive my double post here.

In regards to the C1 in the Ncase, would a tower be better for blowing out of the roof and helping unload more overall temps in the case?

Alright, no more thoughts. Time for sleep


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Hello again people!
> 
> Been a while but I've been smashing my brain on what exactly I want to build for my next rig, and I think I've finally decided.
> 
> *Link for build!*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://pcpartpicker.com/list/xZcmD8
> 
> 
> 
> Do I stay with the 600W or go for a 500W PSU?
> 
> Also, what are your thoughts on the cooler? Good? Bad? Something else?
> 
> Thanks again for all the knowledge thats here. It's really been helpful!


Our resident cat has covered it quite well.

I would be tempted to setup airflow with bottom and side intake with top and back out. I think I would use a downflow CPU cooler (C1) probably with a duct from side vent to cooler .. this way CPU always get room temp air. Doing this means bottom intakes can supply non-blower GPU and heated GPU exhaust can move out back and other venting without heating up CPU cooler airflow. Good pressure rated bottom and side intake fans will move case air through and out of case without the need of exhaust fans in top or back. At least this looks good in text and sounds good in my mind.









On the HDD issue. I'm using external HDDs for much of my storage now. I using 3TB and 5TB USB3 external drives. They only spin up if in use, are not super fast but not slow either (6hrs to move 3TB external to external isn't bad







), and are lower priced than internal drives.

If you need more internal drive space, 2.5" HDDs are quite reasonably priced now.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Our resident cat has covered it quite well.
> 
> I would be tempted to setup airflow with bottom and side intake with top and back out. I think I would use a downflow CPU cooler (C1) probably with a duct from side vent to cooler .. this way CPU always get room temp air. Doing this means bottom intakes can supply non-blower GPU and heated GPU exhaust can move out back and other venting without heating up CPU cooler airflow. Good pressure rated bottom and side intake fans will move case air through and out of case without the need of exhaust fans in top or back. At least this looks good in text and sounds good in my mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the HDD issue. I'm using external HDDs for much of my storage now. I using 3TB and 5TB USB3 external drives. They only spin up if in use, are not super fast but not slow either (6hrs to move 3TB external to external isn't bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), and are lower priced than internal drives.
> 
> If you need more internal drive space, 2.5" HDDs are quite reasonably priced now.


I think that may be the best. I'd much prefer the external drives as well since I have 3 machines for work all of the place and I think a external hub for my 2tb internal would be outstanding.

If I go with a non blower card I have to find one for wate rblock compatible later on which isn't difficult but can be hard with this case size

Thanks!


----------



## doyll

I haven't tried an external USB 3.0 hub because I have enough USB port on case, but have been looking at getting a USB 3.0 hub.








Internal drives are definitely faster, but can be hard to get setup so they don't spin up even so often. The hardest things on HDDs are defragmentation and startup.







Meaning if we only access out storage drives a couple times a day and that is the only time the start they will last much longer then if they are starting up every time OS does some sort of backup like they do to internal drives.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I haven't tried an external USB 3.0 hub because I have enough USB port on case, but have been looking at getting a USB 3.0 hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Internal drives are definitely faster, but can be hard to get setup so they don't spin up even so often. The hardest things on HDDs are defragmentation and startup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Meaning if we only access out storage drives a couple times a day and that is the only time the start they will last much longer then if they are starting up every time OS does some sort of backup like they do to internal drives.


I was thinking about this storage issue with already having the drives and messing with usb storage is meh in my mind, I'd rather it be internal, but hidden in a sense. So I decided to do a little bit of sketching


Spoiler: Early storage sketch







Right next to me is my company's 3D printer so I can make a bracket for the three drives if I remove the DVD drive mounting system on the front face. This might fit everything that I want without putting anything in a weird spot.


----------



## doyll

I dream of having a 3D printer, but then I would have to learn how to do the drawings and program for printer.


----------



## Valgaur

The 3d printer program isn't difficult in all honesty. The cad software is the hard part. Best way to learn is use something called tinker cad. Wonderful learning platform, amazingly simple as well.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> The 3d printer program isn't difficult in all honesty. The cad software is the hard part. Best way to learn is use something called tinker cad. Wonderful learning platform, amazingly simple as well.


Thanks!








I'll give it a try. I know how to read 'blueprints' and can manually draw them, but have never done any cad drawing.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll give it a try. I know how to read 'blueprints' and can manually draw them, but have never done any cad drawing.


Then Tinkercad will be the perfect fit as a learning platform. I've used this website/software for group classroom teaching and it's worked wonders!

Sorry I took the conversation away from the thread topic







Happens in my thread all the dang time


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Then Tinkercad will be the perfect fit as a learning platform. I've used this website/software for group classroom teaching and it's worked wonders!
> 
> Sorry I took the conversation away from the thread topic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happens in my thread all the dang time


Thanks. I don't think anyone here minds a little hijack .. just as long as don't go inter-galactic.








While this Cryorig thread, I think I may have started it.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks. I don't think anyone here minds a little hijack .. just as long as don't go inter-galactic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While this Cryorig thread, I think I may have started it.


back onto cryorig content. would their XT140 fit a slim 120 mm rad in the Ncase M1? I still want to show love if I go WC


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks. I don't think anyone here minds a little hijack .. just as long as don't go inter-galactic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While this Cryorig thread, I think I may have started it.


Don't think anyone minds, 3D printing is pretty cool after all.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> back onto cryorig content. would their XT140 fit a slim 120 mm rad in the Ncase M1? I still want to show love if I go WC


Even if it does fit I don't think its a great idea, 140mm fans don't move that much more air than 120mm fans and you're just going to lose air where the hangs over the rad. The main advantage of going with a 140mm fan is that it usually allows for a bigger fin stack.

Edit: I haven't tested this btw, its just my assumption based on information I've soaked up over the years. So it could be fine, but I don't think its the best idea.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> back onto cryorig content. would their XT140 fit a slim 120 mm rad in the Ncase M1? I still want to show love if I go WC


XT140 has 105mm mount spacing (120mm fan) so yes it could possibly be mounted, but like Gilles said, why?
120mm fans work better for 120mm appliations than140mm fans will.
How about usign the QF120 performance?
http://www.cryorig.com/qf120.php


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> XT140 has 105mm mount spacing (120mm fan) so yes it could possibly be mounted, but like Gilles said, why?
> 120mm fans work better for 120mm appliations than140mm fans will.
> How about usign the QF120 performance?
> http://www.cryorig.com/qf120.php


Probably because of the thickness, fitting rads in the M1 is really tight.

Id probably go for... Brace yourselves, brand that isn't Cryorig incoming... some Silverstone FN123's or FW121's(PWM), I've seen them used in a watercooled M1 before and they're reasonably priced.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Probably because of the thickness, fitting rads in the M1 is really tight.
> 
> Id probably go for... Brace yourselves, brand that isn't Cryorig incoming... some Silverstone FN123's or FW121's(PWM), I've seen them used in a watercooled M1 before and they're reasonably priced.


I have some of these. Need to mount up my choke, cough h80 spit, gag and test the SST airflow speeds against GTs and PH-F120MP sometime.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Don't think anyone minds, 3D printing is pretty cool after all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if it does fit I don't think its a great idea, 140mm fans don't move that much more air than 120mm fans and you're just going to lose air where the hangs over the rad. The main advantage of going with a 140mm fan is that it usually allows for a bigger fin stack.
> 
> Edit: I haven't tested this btw, its just my assumption based on information I've soaked up over the years. So it could be fine, but I don't think its the best idea.


Good point, just a cryo fanboi meow
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> XT140 has 105mm mount spacing (120mm fan) so yes it could possibly be mounted, but like Gilles said, why?
> 120mm fans work better for 120mm appliations than140mm fans will.
> How about usign the QF120 performance?
> http://www.cryorig.com/qf120.php


I need thin fans sadly, or else I would.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Probably because of the thickness, fitting rads in the M1 is really tight.
> 
> Id probably go for... Brace yourselves, brand that isn't Cryorig incoming... some Silverstone FN123's or FW121's(PWM), I've seen them used in a watercooled M1 before and they're reasonably priced.


I've heard really good things from those two fans, PWM run full speed all the time correct? Guess I'll have to look at Noctua for the good 92mm fans....sigh hooray poo brown!


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> I've heard really good things from those two fans, PWM run full speed all the time correct? Guess I'll have to look at Noctua for the good 92mm fans....sigh hooray poo brown!


No no, PWM is controlled by the PWM signal from your motherboard (Or some fan controllers that have PWM) and usually have a broader control range than voltage controlled fans, they only run at full speed when not supplied with a PWM signal(Edit:Or when you set them to full speed ofc).

And Noctua isn't the only one making good 92mm fans, so no reason to get the poo brown ones.








Have a look at Noiseblocker and be quiet!, they're cheaper than their Noctua counterparts too and both all black.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> No no, PWM is controlled by the PWM signal from your motherboard (Or some fan controllers that have PWM) and usually have a broader control range than voltage controlled fans, they only run at full speed when not supplied with a PWM signal(Edit:Or when you set them to full speed ofc).
> 
> And Noctua isn't the only one making good 92mm fans, so no reason to get the poo brown ones.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a look at Noiseblocker and be quiet!, they're cheaper than their Noctua counterparts too and both all black.


Thank you sir!


----------



## takt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I just heard from Cryorig


Hurray! Fantastic news. Thanks for following up doyll. I'll be officially part of the club soon enough!


----------



## Cakewalk_S

So how is this XT140 140mm slim PWM fan? I just picked one up because I realized I definitely need one for pulling air out through my air cooler on my ITX case... Plus the 140mm fan should fit perfect for my air cooler too...should make for a pretty good combo. Plus I can PWM it so I'll barely see any noise increase... Maybe drop 2-3C???


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> So how is this XT140 140mm slim PWM fan? I just picked one up because I realized I definitely need one for pulling air out through my air cooler on my ITX case... Plus the 140mm fan should fit perfect for my air cooler too...should make for a pretty good combo. Plus I can PWM it so I'll barely see any noise increase... Maybe drop 2-3C???


I recently got one to blow on the back of my board. The one I got had a slight ticking sound when around 20% PWM. It stopped doing it after a few weeks of use, so I don't know. Seems decent, and according to dvtests the specs are pretty accurate (in free air at least).


----------



## Alover

Hello.
I bought a new h5 ultimate, and it goes 850 rpm in idle.
Whats wrong with it?!


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Hello.
> I bought a new h5 ultimate, and it goes 850 rpm in idle.
> Whats wrong with it?!


Where have you got it plugged in? To the motherboard CPU fan header?

The rated speed (according to the web site) is 700 ~ 1300 RPM (±10 %) so my guess is that do have it plugged into the CPU fan header and your motherboard is controlling the fan using PWM. When the CPU is idle, not putting out much heat ... your motherboard has decided that the fan doesn't need to run full tilt.

If you want it to run full tilt all the time, enter BIOS and change the CPU fan settings.

Edit: Or are you concerned that it isn't going 700rpm? Or is the wrong color? Facing the wrong way?

I have a stack of QF120 Balanced 120s (Rated Speed 330 ~ 1600 RPM ±10%) and the slowest I can get mine to turn is 420rpms.


----------



## Alover

Ye y should explain better.
Im concerned because the min rpm is 700 according to the specs and mines runs at 850 min, so im wondering why that high rpm!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Hello.
> I bought a new h5 ultimate, and it goes 850 rpm in idle.
> Whats wrong with it?!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Where have you got it plugged in? To the motherboard CPU fan header?
> 
> The rated speed (according to the web site) is 700 ~ 1300 RPM (±10 %) so my guess is that do have it plugged into the CPU fan header and your motherboard is controlling the fan using PWM. When the CPU is idle, not putting out much heat ... your motherboard has decided that the fan doesn't need to run full tilt.
> 
> If you want it to run full tilt all the time, enter BIOS and change the CPU fan settings.
> 
> Edit: Or are you concerned that it isn't going 700rpm? Or is the wrong color? Facing the wrong way?
> 
> I have a stack of QF120 Balanced 120s (Rated Speed 330 ~ 1600 RPM ±10%) and the slowest I can get mine to turn is 420rpms.


I'm agreeing with ruffhi. My money is on control circuit not supplying with signal needed, not something wrong with fan. Fan is the slave of the master. When master control tells fan jump, fan jumps. If fan does not jump, 999 times out of 1000 the problem is master control is not telling it to.









Edit: Probably your control (master) is not set to a low enough PWM% setting.


----------



## ruffhi

I've always wondered about the ±10% part ... is that 10% from the top value, the current value, the low value?

For my fans that are rated 330 ~ 1600 RPM ±10% ... does that mean they can go ±160rpm at the top and bottom end ... or ±160rpms at the top but only ±33rpms at the bottom?


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I've always wondered about the ±10% part ... is that 10% from the top value, the current value, the low value?
> 
> For my fans that are rated 330 ~ 1600 RPM ±10% ... does that mean they can go ±160rpm at the top and bottom end ... or ±160rpms at the top but only ±33rpms at the bottom?


That is their margin of error. Meaning the fan is rated for 330-1600rpm but the actual RPM may be within + or - 10% of 330 and + or - 10% of 1600RPM. Some fans with a tighter bearing may spin slightly lower and some with a loose bearing may spin slightly faster due to less friction... it's just the margin for manufacturing requirements.


----------



## Alover

I got the "problem"

Tested the fans and the pwn, the results...



You think there is something wrong?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> I got the "problem"
> 
> Tested the fans and the pwn, the results...
> 
> 
> 
> You think there is something wrong?


You are smart enough to understand what has been posted in reply ot your original question.
If you can't figure it out for thos answersn, I don't know what else to say.


----------



## Alover

It still seems a little "weird" for me.
0-20% pwm almost the same rpm.
The same from 60 to 100% pwm.

Then in the 20-60% range 500 rpm difference.

Thats is what im not understand.

No diference between 70 80 90 or 100 % pwm.

Sorry if i annoyed yo

Edit:

I saw this in a review:

- at 0 PWM, 730 RPM (16~17 dBA)
- at 40% PWM, 850 RPM (20~21 dBA)
- at 50% PWM, 980 RPM (24~25 dBA)
- at 60% PWM, 1090 RPM (26~27 dBA)
- at 100% PWM, 1430 RPM (30 dBA)

And i dont know where is the problem


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> It still seems a little "weird" for me.
> 0-20% pwm almost the same rpm.
> The same from 60 to 100% pwm.
> 
> Then in the 20-60% range 500 rpm difference.
> 
> Thats is what im not understand.
> 
> No diference between 70 80 90 or 100 % pwm.
> 
> Sorry if i annoyed yo
> 
> Edit:
> 
> I saw this in a review:
> 
> - at 0 PWM, 730 RPM (16~17 dBA)
> - at 40% PWM, 850 RPM (20~21 dBA)
> - at 50% PWM, 980 RPM (24~25 dBA)
> - at 60% PWM, 1090 RPM (26~27 dBA)
> - at 100% PWM, 1430 RPM (30 dBA)
> 
> And i dont know where is the problem


Not a problem at all.








What is happening (guessing) is your PWM signal does not go any lower than about 20%, so even though your software shows 0% and 10% the signal is still 20% .. so fan stays at 736rpm. That or the PWM circuit in the fan goes no lower than 20% meaning fan will not idle any lower than th 736rpm you are seeing.


----------



## Alover

And how about that?

Review results:
- at 0 PWM, 730 RPM (16~17 dBA)
- at 40% PWM, 850 RPM (20~21 dBA)
- at 50% PWM, 980 RPM (24~25 dBA)
- at 60% PWM, 1090 RPM (26~27 dBA)
- at 100% PWM, 1430 RPM (30 dBA)

My results:
- at 0 PWM, 736 RPM
- at 40% PWM, 1033 RPM
- at 50% PWM, 1180 RPM
- at 60% PWM, 1294 RPM
- at 100% PWM, 1381 RPM

As you see, int the middle range, i cant make a nice configuration because my fan i dont know why starts spinning really fast with a low pwn.
I search some other reviews and their results are about the same. 750 rpm at 25% and about 1000 rpm at 50%.

I dont know why but mines spins really fast even with lo pwm!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> And how about that?
> 
> Review results:
> - at 0 PWM, 730 RPM (16~17 dBA)
> - at 40% PWM, 850 RPM (20~21 dBA)
> - at 50% PWM, 980 RPM (24~25 dBA)
> - at 60% PWM, 1090 RPM (26~27 dBA)
> - at 100% PWM, 1430 RPM (30 dBA)
> 
> My results:
> - at 0 PWM, 736 RPM
> - at 40% PWM, 1033 RPM
> - at 50% PWM, 1180 RPM
> - at 60% PWM, 1294 RPM
> - at 100% PWM, 1381 RPM
> 
> As you see, int the middle range, i cant make a nice configuration because my fan i dont know why starts spinning really fast with a low pwn.
> I search some other reviews and their results are about the same. 750 rpm at 25% and about 1000 rpm at 50%.
> 
> I dont know why but mines spins really fast even with lo pwm!


Are you intentionally trying to troll? Because you are not succeding very well.









You posted
PWM% to RPM
00% = 736
10% = 736
*20% = 778
30% = 895*
40% = 1033
Etc.

Your PWM% to RPM curve starts somewhere between 10% & 20%.
You left out 20% and 30% PWM in this post, which makes no sense unless you are trolling or don't not thinking rationally.


----------



## Alover

Nope.

This is the data i saw on the review:
Review results:
- at 0 PWM, 730 RPM (16~17 dBA)
- at 40% PWM, 850 RPM (20~21 dBA)
- at 50% PWM, 980 RPM (24~25 dBA)
- at 60% PWM, 1090 RPM (26~27 dBA)
- at 100% PWM, 1430 RPM (30 dBA)

Also as i said, another review gives data at 25% (725rpm) and 50% (1001 rpm)
As you see, both reviews has almost the same results.

When i "analyze" my fans with the asus extreme fan, my results are:


This is what the software says,

Then i adapt my results to the review format:

- at 0 PWM, 736 RPM
- at 40% PWM, 1033 RPM
- at 50% PWM, 1180 RPM
- at 60% PWM, 1294 RPM
- at 100% PWM, 1381 RPM

I dont even know what determines the pwm o what controls it, but trust me, really, im not trolling.

Im only confused because my fan spins too fast compared to the one from the review and dont know why.

Sorry again but really, im not trolling.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Nope.
> 
> This is the data i saw on the review:
> Review results:
> - at 0 PWM, 730 RPM (16~17 dBA)
> - at 40% PWM, 850 RPM (20~21 dBA)
> - at 50% PWM, 980 RPM (24~25 dBA)
> - at 60% PWM, 1090 RPM (26~27 dBA)
> - at 100% PWM, 1430 RPM (30 dBA)
> 
> Also as i said, another review gives data at 25% (725rpm) and 50% (1001 rpm)
> As you see, both reviews has almost the same results.
> 
> When i "analyze" my fans with the asus extreme fan, my results are:
> 
> 
> This is what the software says,
> 
> Then i adapt my results to the review format:
> 
> - at 0 PWM, 736 RPM
> - at 40% PWM, 1033 RPM
> - at 50% PWM, 1180 RPM
> - at 60% PWM, 1294 RPM
> - at 100% PWM, 1381 RPM
> 
> I dont even know what determines the pwm o what controls it, but trust me, really, im not trolling.
> 
> Im only confused because my fan spins too fast compared to the one from the review and dont know why.
> 
> Sorry again but really, im not trolling.


I kinda figured that.









Actually the minimum rpm is 736rpm and that will start to climb at aobut 15% PWM signal. 735rpm is normally not at a dB level that bothers people.

Here's a PWM% to RPM graph of TY-147, TY-147A and TY-143
\

Maybe it will help you understand how fan curves work.


----------



## Alover

Thank you.
Then definetely is something wrong with my fan!

The cryorig h5 fan is similar to that ty 140/141/147

All of them run at similar rpm as the h5 review.

For example, at 50% pwm they run at 875/895 rpm.
Mine goes 1180 rpm at 50%!

Then when is the problem?
Then fan, the mobo? dont know

Edit:

man you are a genius!
I was reading the topic and found a image you post time ago.


And this is my curve!!

So maybe everythin is ok?
Why cryorig fans has that weird curve?

sorry for being so noob.

Thank you.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Thank you.
> Then definetely is something wrong with my fan!
> 
> The cryorig h5 fan is similar to that ty 140/141/147
> 
> All of them run at similar rpm as the h5 review.
> 
> For example, at 50% pwm they run at 875/895 rpm.
> Mine goes 1180 rpm at 50%!
> 
> Then when is the problem?
> Then fan, the mobo? dont know
> 
> Edit:
> 
> man you are a genius!
> I was reading the topic and found a image you post time ago.
> 
> 
> And this is my curve!!
> 
> So maybe everythin is ok?
> Why cryorig fans has that weird curve?
> 
> sorry for being so noob.
> 
> Thank you.


We all had to learn somewhere.


----------



## Alover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> We all had to learn somewhere.


Sorry for bothering you again







.
I tried to contact with cryorig support but it seems that you know more about cryorig fans than cryorig









Why is the xf140 curve so different to others fans?
Is this normal, or maybe is motherboard/fan bug or something? :s

Thank you.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Sorry for bothering you again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I tried to contact with cryorig support but it seems that you know more about cryorig fans than cryorig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why is the xf140 curve so different to others fans?
> Is this normal, or maybe is motherboard/fan bug or something? :s
> 
> Thank you.


The PWM signal to rpm curve is determined by the fan itself.

The curve is determined by the ratio of PWM signal to 12v pulsed power to fan.
PWM signal comes from motherboard or in my testing from Aquaero 5 LT USB.
12v power is from motherboard or maybe from PSU.
PWM to pulse ratio is programmed onto a chip that is on the PWM PCB in the fan itself.

There is no 'normal' or 'abnormal' in the XF140 fan PWM to RPM curve. It's kinda like trying to find a 'normal' person or family .. or life expectancy. Each is 'unique', not 'normal'.







It is just what it is. Some fans ramp up quicker than others, some have lower idle speeds, some have higher top speeds.


----------



## Alover

I was wondering why the guy from the review has different results, closer to the ty fan results :S
Basically the guy is lying or he didnt test the fans :S

Is there any sofware to measure the power delivered to the fans or something like that?
Thank you.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> I was wondering why the guy from the review has different results, closer to the ty fan results :S
> Basically the guy is lying or he didnt test the fans :S
> 
> Is there any sofware to measure the power delivered to the fans or something like that?
> Thank you.


What do you mean by 'power delivered to the fans' ?


----------



## Alover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What do you mean by 'power delivered to the fans' ?


The voltage the fan receives.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> The voltage the fan receives.


Hardware is needed. Something like a VOM (Volt-Ohm-Meter)

When fans are PWM the voltage never changes. The power to the fan is always12v. The PWM (pulse width modulation) pulses the 12v power to regulate the amount of time the fan motor receives 12v of power. If 12v power is constant the fan runs full speed. The less time the fan motor receives 12v power the slower the fan motor runs.


----------



## Alover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Hardware is needed. Something like a VOM (Volt-Ohm-Meter)
> 
> When fans are PWM the voltage never changes. The power to the fan is always12v. The PWM (pulse width modulation) pulses the 12v power to regulate the amount of time the fan motor receives 12v of power. If 12v power is constant the fan runs full speed. The less time the fan motor receives 12v power the slower the fan motor runs.


Oh i see.
So the fan is receiving 12 all the time, and the chip on the fan regulates the speed right?
But the motherboard is always "sending" 12v.

In this case, is there any way to measure that 12v signal in the motherboard connector?

Thank you again


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Oh i see.
> So the fan is receiving 12 all the time, and the chip on the fan regulates the speed right?
> But the motherboard is always "sending" 12v.
> 
> In this case, is there any way to measure that 12v signal in the motherboard connector?
> 
> Thank you again


Yes. Use a voltmeter. Except the 12V line isn't a signal - it's just 12V, +/- a few millivolts. Pin 4 is the PWM pulse signal.

PWM Pinout
1 GND | black
2 +12V | yellow
3 RPM | green
4 PWM | blue

To measure the PWM period and duty cycle usually requires a scope. Or not. Can DIY a FFT system on the cheap


----------



## Alover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> Yes. Use a voltmeter. Except the 12V line isn't a signal - it's just 12V, +/- a few millivolts. Pin 4 is the PWM pulse signal.
> 
> PWM Pinout
> 1 GND | black
> 2 +12V | yellow
> 3 RPM | green
> 4 PWM | blue
> 
> To measure the PWM period and duty cycle usually requires a scope. Or not. Can DIY a FFT system on the cheap


Thank you!.
I want to know if the mobo is ok.
Maybe a wrong v is causing that "high rpm curve".
Thats why im disapointed with the cryorig ( from the other post xd).

Or maybe i should accept that this is the average curve for that "noisy" fan









Thank you.!


----------



## MicroCat

What is the mobo? And what are the fan control settings in the bios?


----------



## Alover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> What is the mobo? And what are the fan control settings in the bios?


asus z170 pro gaming.
In the bios i only found 4 "profiles".
Yo can customize the temp/pwm ratiobut the pwm/rpm is always that bad xd.
I mean, you can say, at 50ºC-50pwm and at 60ºC-60pwm, but considering between 50 and 60 pwm there is a big rpm difference this is not helpfull D:

Thanks!


----------



## MicroCat

ASUS generally have the best PWM implementations. Even if you set it to 10% at 30c on the low end, the XF140 has a min speed of 700rpm (+/- 10%). It may not bother most, but 700rpm can be too audible for some, like me.

The XF140 is not the smoothest sounding fan at any speed. And can exhibit a subtle chuffing sound at low speed. Combined with the 'plateaued' pwm response curve, it's not among my fav 140mm fans. See the XF140 fan response curve from Thermalbench's R1 test here.


----------



## Alover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> ASUS generally have the best PWM implementations. Even if you set it to 10% at 30c on the low end, the XF140 has a min speed of 700rpm (+/- 10%). It may not bother most, but 700rpm can be too audible for some, like me.
> 
> The XF140 is not the smoothest sounding fan at any speed. And can exhibit a subtle chuffing sound at low speed. Combined with the 'plateaued' pwm response curve, it's not among my fav 140mm fans. See the XF140 fan response curve from Thermalbench's R1 test here.


Thats exactly what worries me.
Considering the curve in the thermalbenchs review i can make some weird comparissons.

the fan stars going faster at 20%, mines at 800 rpm at 20% :S
At 40% is still around 800rpm. Mines at 40% runs at 1055 rpm!!!
Its somethin crazzy!!!

I post again my screen for you.


And then i make a talbe with the review data.

10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
700 700 740 810 960 1180 1200 1300 1300 1300

As you can see, if the thermalbench review is ok, my fans behaviour is kinda weird :S

I dont really know whats happening.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Thats exactly what worries me.
> Considering the curve in the thermalbenchs review i can make some weird comparissons.
> 
> the fan stars going faster at 20%, mines at 800 rpm at 20% :S
> At 40% is still around 800rpm. Mines at 40% runs at 1055 rpm!!!
> Its somethin crazzy!!!
> 
> I post again my screen for you.
> 
> 
> And then i make a talbe with the review data.
> 
> 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
> 700 700 740 810 960 1180 1200 1300 1300 1300
> 
> As you can see, if the thermalbench review is ok, my fans behaviour is kinda weird :S
> 
> I dont really know whats happening.


Your pwm follows the basic response of the curve at thermalbench, but with a +10% offset between 50% to 80%. Not that much outside of spec, all variables included. Thermalbench uses an Aquaero for testing vs Asus pwm control. With some tweaking in the bios fan control you could get closer

However, even if your fan matched the thermalbench curve perfectly, it would still spin faster at idle than I'd be comfortable with. Sub 500rpm is my idle threshold for 140mm pwm fans.Unless it's an exceptionally quiet fan, which the XF140 isn't.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Thats exactly what worries me.
> Considering the curve in the thermalbenchs review i can make some weird comparissons.
> 
> the fan stars going faster at 20%, mines at 800 rpm at 20% :S
> At 40% is still around 800rpm. Mines at 40% runs at 1055 rpm!!!
> Its somethin crazzy!!!
> 
> I post again my screen for you.
> 
> 
> And then i make a talbe with the review data.
> 
> 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
> 700 700 740 810 960 1180 1200 1300 1300 1300
> 
> As you can see, if the thermalbench review is ok, my fans behaviour is kinda weird :S
> 
> I dont really know whats happening.


Have you run tuning in FanXpert?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Thats exactly what worries me.
> Considering the curve in the thermalbenchs review i can make some weird comparissons.
> 
> the fan stars going faster at 20%, mines at 800 rpm at 20% :S
> At 40% is still around 800rpm. Mines at 40% runs at 1055 rpm!!!
> Its somethin crazzy!!!
> 
> I post again my screen for you.
> 
> 
> And then i make a talbe with the review data.
> 
> 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
> 700 700 740 810 960 1180 1200 1300 1300 1300
> 
> As you can see, if the thermalbench review is ok, my fans behaviour is kinda weird :S
> 
> I dont really know whats happening.


What is happening is you are freaking out over normal fan performance. The XF140 is what it is. Your XF140 rpm is within factory specifications .. Just like MicroCat and I have said.
Here are graphs with rpm range expanded so we can see both SF fan lines.

Your PWM % to RPM is near identical to the my graph you posted before.
Like MicroCat said, it is also within the 10% margin of error in specifications.


----------



## VSG

Below 1000 RPM, most fan makers actually use a +/- 15% variation in fan speed. The +/- 10% is generally above 1000 RPM.


----------



## Alover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What is happening is you are freaking out over normal fan performance. The XF140 is what it is. Your XF140 rpm is within factory specifications .. Just like MicroCat and I have said.
> Here are graphs with rpm range expanded so we can see both SF fan lines.
> 
> Your PWM % to RPM is near identical to the my graph you posted before.
> Like MicroCat said, it is also within the 10% margin of error in specifications.


Thank you for that work!
Still confused.
Your results and mines are almost identical.
But i think the review one is a little "better".
Even considering that 10-15% margin is still 800 - 1000 at some point. 800+15% is still 920 rpm! Far from 1xxx.

But i think you are the master here, so ill trust you!

Ill try to get a "better" or quieter fan then, maybe a thermalright one.
While i try to find it ( i dont know why, but at least in my country, thermaltake distribution is really bad, and the prices and a little high) i discover a "silent" option among the fan expert features :S.
That gives me a "better" curve.

I dont know how, but this could be a temporary solution? :S

And its "secure", i mean, i know thats the range of quieter fans, but dont know if the xf140 could keep the cpu cool with that low rpm :S.

Thank you!


----------



## VSG

It's luck of the draw man, and also how good of a PWM controller is in your motherboard.


----------



## Alover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's luck of the draw man, and also how good of a PWM controller is in your motherboard.


The pwn controller depends on the mobo model or the mobo "unit"?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> The pwn controller depends on the mobo model or the mobo "unit"?


The model, as in what components and how well it was programmed.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Thank you for that work!
> Still confused.
> Your results and mines are almost identical.
> But i think the review one is a little "better".
> Even considering that 10-15% margin is still 800 - 1000 at some point. 800+15% is still 920 rpm! Far from 1xxx.
> 
> But i think you are the master here, so ill trust you!
> 
> Ill try to get a "better" or quieter fan then, maybe a thermalright one.
> While i try to find it ( i dont know why, but at least in my country, thermaltake distribution is really bad, and the prices and a little high) i discover a "silent" option among the fan expert features :S.
> That gives me a "better" curve.
> 
> I dont know how, but this could be a temporary solution? :S
> 
> And its "secure", i mean, i know thats the range of quieter fans, but dont know if the xf140 could keep the cpu cool with that low rpm :S.
> 
> Thank you!


What geggeg said.









I don't understand what you mean by "better".

As soon as I saw your new "silent" motherboard fan curve it becomes obvious your motherboard chart is not PWM% to RPM!
New setting

Old setting


The % line is not % PWM.
No idea what it is, but it's not PWM!
PWM signal % to RPM does not change more than a few RPM.
30% PWM signal cannot be 0 RPM on one motherboard setting and 895 RPM on another.

TY-147A would be a good choice. It is quieter and moves more air. But if the XF140 sounds good and is cooling good now, why change?


----------



## Alover

When it says "0 rpm" actually means the min rpm maybe.
I mean, the min rpm measured is 554, never 0 rpm xd.

The problem with the xf140 is what started all this confusion.
With the default fan setting, controlled by the bios, the fan was spinning at 900-1000 at idle!!, so it was noisy.

Thats what made me think the fan or the mobo was probably damaged, and thats why im worried.

Installing the fan expert software it lets me drop the rpm to 750 at idle, with the "standard" profile.
Something better.

And now, with that "silent" option, is even quieter,obviously the cpu runs hotter.
Thats why im wondering if this silent option is healthy for the cpu, or the xf140 is designed to run at high rpm.

If i could stay with that silent option maybe i could save the money of a new fan.
That would be great.

Than you for all the support!.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> When it says "0 rpm" actually means the min rpm maybe.
> I mean, the min rpm measured is 554, never 0 rpm xd.
> 
> The problem with the xf140 is what started all this confusion.
> With the default fan setting, controlled by the bios, the fan was spinning at 900-1000 at idle!!, so it was noisy.
> 
> Thats what made me think the fan or the mobo was probably damaged, and thats why im worried.
> 
> Installing the fan expert software it lets me drop the rpm to 750 at idle, with the "standard" profile.
> Something better.
> 
> And now, with that "silent" option, is even quieter,obviously the cpu runs hotter.
> Thats why im wondering if this silent option is healthy for the cpu, or the xf140 is designed to run at high rpm.
> 
> If i could stay with that silent option maybe i could save the money of a new fan.
> That would be great.
> 
> Than you for all the support!.


The 'problem' was the motherboard fan speed settings causing problems, not the fan. Granted the fan is not as quiet and it's sound signature is not as smooth / pleasant as some others, but it is not a 'bad' fan compared to many out there.

Don't worry about it. It's just the way your motherboard temp to rpm curves are.

What are your CPU an GPU temps at idle and full load now?


----------



## Volkswagen

How is the H5 Ultimate? Can it handle a 5820K at 4 GHZ?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Volkswagen*
> 
> How is the H5 Ultimate? Can it handle a 5820K at 4 GHZ?


Its one of the best 140mm single tower coolers and should handle your 5820K with ease. What voltage is it at?


----------



## doyll

What Gilles3000 said.








Top tier single tower coolers are 0-3c warmer than twin tower coolers. Even 3c is not much when most system airflow have air 10-20c warmer than room going into working cooler. Lower the air temp into cooler by 5-15c and you lower temps by about the same 5-15c .. which is way more than the 3c a better cooler does.


----------



## Valgaur

I have returned!

With more questions... I'm not finding, at least in my feeble attempts, if the R1 ulti fits the Maximus vi extreme mobo. Anyone using it currently with that?

Never mind, got access to a printer


----------



## Steve-S

Hey all!
Not sure if anyone posted this yet, but we're having a giveaway for some CRYORIG posters! Same as the ones seen here:


Basic rules, go on to our Fanpage (which you should have already joined!) Go there, like the event post download the wallpaper and post a photo of your desktop with the wallpaper on. Last tag someone and post your photo!

Link here:
http://bit.ly/2dD9S2b

Here's the wallpaper in 1920x1080,


the event page has links to multiple resolutions including 21:9 Ultra wide screen format ones. Yeah the event is closing up soon on Oct. 8th lol, a bit late for the post but please join if you're interested in a large CRYORIG poster!


----------



## Steve-S

Yeah,
We're trying to pump out more "swag" like badges and stickers up, since a lot of people are asking for them. So the posters are just a start.


----------



## Gilles3000

No Z1 on the poster... Its still coming, right?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> No Z1 on the poster... Its still coming, right?


Some of us are never satisfied.








Me included.















Z1
Z1
Z1
Z1
Z1


----------



## Steve-S

We have some...interesting plans for the Z1. But it will take some time to get that bad boy ready!


----------



## doyll

Seems to be a 'Money Pit' house kind of deal. Every time he asked when the house would be ready the answer was "'Two weeks! No problem! Two weeks!" because it was always 1 steps forward and 1 steps back.


----------



## VSG

I like interesting, it's better than "nope, not happening".


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I like interesting, it's better than "nope, not happening".


We know Cryorig does good things. I suspect the end result will be worth the wait.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Hey all!
> Not sure if anyone posted this yet, but we're having a giveaway for some CRYORIG posters! Same as the ones seen here:
> 
> 
> Basic rules, go on to our Fanpage (which you should have already joined!) Go there, like the event post download the wallpaper and post a photo of your desktop with the wallpaper on. Last tag someone and post your photo!
> 
> Link here:
> http://bit.ly/2dD9S2b
> 
> Here's the wallpaper in 1920x1080,
> 
> 
> the event page has links to multiple resolutions including 21:9 Ultra wide screen format ones. Yeah the event is closing up soon on Oct. 8th lol, a bit late for the post but please join if you're interested in a large CRYORIG poster!


I'll have to build a PC in 24 hours!? Challenge accepted! My parts arrive on Friday, I'll have it built that night for you guys


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> We know Cryorig does good things. I suspect the end result will be worth the wait.


LOL, we hope so too.
But like anything, it's tough to do something new when there are now general direction to follow.
It's the same deal with our cases the Taku and OLA. We're trying to build a case while literally being outside the box.
There's no chance for us to just slap on our logo on a existing OEM design. We're custom making HDD/SSD bays, switches etc.
And also using materials and parts that are not used in PC's at the moment.
It's a pain in a ass to innovate, but it's the only way we know how to work and also the only chance to do something different!


----------



## Steve-S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> I'll have to build a PC in 24 hours!? Challenge accepted! My parts arrive on Friday, I'll have it built that night for you guys


Actually nothing in the rules say that you can't use it on a Laptop! But for our business to thrive, yeah please everyone build a desktop


----------



## VSG

Good luck with the case launch btw, I assume that's the next product in line?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> LOL, we hope so too.
> But like anything, it's tough to do something new when there are now general direction to follow.
> It's the same deal with our cases the Taku and OLA. We're trying to build a case while literally being outside the box.
> There's no chance for us to just slap on our logo on a existing OEM design. We're custom making HDD/SSD bays, switches etc.
> And also using materials and parts that are not used in PC's at the moment.
> It's a pain in a ass to innovate, but it's the only way we know how to work and also the only chance to do something different!


This /\ /\ /\ /\ /\ is why I support Cryorig the way I do..
Innovative design with cutting edge performance built to the highest quality standards and backed up with excellent customer support.







acutally








Now I'm sounding like an advertisement.








I never did get my AF41 or Air Fort One


----------



## takt

@Steve-S

Any firm dates for when your products will be available in Canada?


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steve-S*
> 
> Actually nothing in the rules say that you can't use it on a Laptop! But for our business to thrive, yeah please everyone build a desktop


Well apparently life has a sense of humor. I drew a unfortunate straw and looks like my board is dead....ugh


----------



## Valgaur

The R1 ultimate just looks so goooooood


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> 
> 
> The R1 ultimate just looks so goooooood


Looks really good. How are your temps with SLI at full load?


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks really good. How are your temps with SLI at full load?


Had to cut the build short last night as I have a bunch of meetings today. I'll check once I can today!


----------



## Valgaur

Temps are around 66C for gpus (SLI 780ti Asus DCUII) when they are full tilt and the cpu (4770K) doesn't go above 66C This was with gpu stress and Intel Burn test as well.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Temps are around 66C for gpus (SLI 780ti Asus DCUII) when they are full tilt and the cpu (4770K) doesn't go above 66C This was with gpu stress and Intel Burn test as well.


Good temps with all the heat coming off of things in there.








Just curious, how long does it take from start of test to reach stable maximum temperature? I ask because I've found the quicker the peak, the better optimized the case airflow tends to be. Basically case flows about same temp air to components regardless of what their load is .. I monitor cooler intake air temps.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Good temps with all the heat coming off of things in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just curious, how long does it take from start of test to reach stable maximum temperature? I ask because I've found the quicker the peak, the better optimized the case airflow tends to be. Basically case flows about same temp air to components regardless of what their load is .. I monitor cooler intake air temps.


It was about 2-3 minutes or so. I checked after 30 minutes and there wasn't much change to the standing temps that I noticed. One major help was that I have delidded my 4770K. Helps unload all of the heat









Have to rep my crazy peoples


----------



## Dan-H

What is the best way to clean dust stuck to the fins of a Cryorg R1 ?

I was cleaning and saw the R1 had some dust build up along in the fins, but the compressed air can didn't clean it off.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> What is the best way to clean dust stuck to the fins of a Cryorg R1 ?
> 
> I was cleaning and saw the R1 had some dust build up along in the fins, but the compressed air can didn't clean it off.


While I have not washed my Cryorigs in hot soapy water, rinsed and dried, all of my older coolers have been cleaned this way. I've cleaned motherboards and other things this way too. Key is use a good soap/detergent like for dish washing machine to cut the oily film, then rinse and dry. I usually do a final rinse with distilled water, but I have a ready supply from dehumidifier. A hair dryer, even a warm convection oven or the stationary drying rack for drying delicate lacy things in some cloths dryers can be used. Just don't get things too hot.


----------



## dreamsINdigital

Are the bases of these CRYORIG coolers known to scratch relatively easily? I saw some pics in past posts in this thread.

I had some trouble lining the screws up for my R1 Universal, so I had to remove it a couple of times before I had fully screwed it down on both sides. I noticed the base had developed a slight outline of the IHS from my 4690K. It doesn't seem to affect performance though. I don't think I screwed it down too tight since you can only screw it to the point where they stop turning (and you're supposed to). I also alternated when screwing as to not fully tighten one before the other.


----------



## Kutalion

No worries mine has those too. Doesnt impact performance. Im guessing it is due to really good pressure the cooler does on cpu. Which is a great thing for cooling perf.


----------



## atomicus

If there's a Cryorig rep on here, you need to tell whoever is in charge that more effort needs to be made in getting your products more visible in the UK. Not so easy to get hold of here and loads of people I know haven't even heard of you.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> If there's a Cryorig rep on here, you need to tell whoever is in charge that more effort needs to be made in getting your products more visible in the UK. Not so easy to get hold of here and loads of people I know haven't even heard of you.


















I've told them this many times. Not sure what the problem actually is because there are authorized Cryorig dealers here:
https://www.alternate.co.uk/html/search.html?query=cryorig&x=0&y=0 (£9.90 shipping .. from Germany I think)









http://www.ebuyer.com/search?q=cryorig (nothing in stock)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aag/main?ie=UTF8&asin=&isAmazonFulfilled=&isCBA=&marketplaceID=A1F83G8C2ARO7P&orderID=&seller=A2NIA2CGVBCUK3 (shows us nothing Cryorig,)









But if you search "computers" for "Cryorig"
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Dcomputers&field-keywords=cryorig
you will find a few .. although often with inflated prices.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've told them this many times. Not sure what the problem actually is because there are authorized Cryorig dealers here:
> https://www.alternate.co.uk/html/search.html?query=cryorig&x=0&y=0 (£9.90 shipping .. from Germany I think)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebuyer.com/search?q=cryorig (nothing in stock)
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aag/main?ie=UTF8&asin=&isAmazonFulfilled=&isCBA=&marketplaceID=A1F83G8C2ARO7P&orderID=&seller=A2NIA2CGVBCUK3 (shows us nothing Cryorig,)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if you search "computers" for "Cryorig"
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Dcomputers&field-keywords=cryorig
> you will find a few .. although often with inflated prices.


Ebuyer seemed to have stopped selling them for some reason. A few on Amazon as you say. Alternate are actually in Germany, despite the domain name, but I've used them a few times and they're a good company... shipping isn't cheap though. Really don't understand why Cryorig don't push themselves here more... they have an amazing product and I'm always telling people about them, but because they are apparently invisible this alters the perception of their product strength, no matter what I say. Yet everyone knows Corsair so they rush out and buy that junk because of their clever marketing. Come on Cryorig, get it together!


----------



## VSG

Never underestimate the power of a global retail channel. Marketing will only get you so much, but when first time builders go to a brick and mortar store and see a lot of one company's products they tend to stick with them.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

I just realized that for some reason my fans have been running at 800rpm this entire time... Now to just figure out how to make my z87x-oc run them at max and I suspect I'll be able to run BOINC stable at 4.5-4.6GHz,or at least game at those speeds... And maintain a much cooler cpu core temp ^_^;;;;


----------



## Icicle

Would you guys know if there exist low noise adapters for use with Cryorig XF140 and XT140 fans? Would the Noctua L.N.A adapters work?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Icicle*
> 
> Would you guys know if there exist low noise adapters for use with Cryorig XF140 and XT140 fans? Would the Noctua L.N.A adapters work?


They will work with voltage control, but the fans are PWM. Fan speed curves can be custom set on most all motherboards. Why not adjust your temp to speed fan curve?


----------



## Icicle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> They will work with voltage control, but the fans are PWM. Fan speed curves can be custom set on most all motherboards. Why not adjust your temp to speed fan curve?


I'm looking to use both of these Cryorigs along with 2 Noctuas on a mini itx case in Ncase M1 - all controlled by CPU fan header (connected via PWM splitter powered by Sata).

Given I'd be connecting 4 fans to same header, I was not sure if I'd be able to implement accurate control using PWM. My goal is to keep all fans silent, which I think implies less than 950-1000RPM max on the Cryorigs? Hence, I thought the simplest way might be to just put voltage adapters on all of the fans.

I thought I'd use the Grid+ v2, but that doesn't play nice with Noctua PWM fans, and I have not come across anyone using that with Cryorigs either. I don't have the case or fans in hand yet (still using the SG13 setup in sig) so I'm planning/hypothesizing right now.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Icicle*
> 
> I'm looking to use both of these Cryorigs along with 2 Noctuas on a mini itx case in Ncase M1 - all controlled by CPU fan header (connected via PWM splitter powered by Sata).
> 
> Given I'd be connecting 4 fans to same header, I was not sure if I'd be able to implement accurate control using PWM. My goal is to keep all fans silent, which I think implies less than 950-1000RPM max on the Cryorigs? Hence, I thought the simplest way might be to just put voltage adapters on all of the fans.
> 
> I thought I'd use the Grid+ v2, but that doesn't play nice with Noctua PWM fans, and I have not come across anyone using that with Cryorigs either. I don't have the case or fans in hand yet (still using the SG13 setup in sig) so I'm planning/hypothesizing right now.


Why don't you simply use a PWM splitter with power provided directly from the PSU?


----------



## doyll

What ciarlatano said. :thumb
Something like a Gelid 5-way PWM splitter with PSU power or a Swiftech 8-way PWM hub also with PSU power works very well for 4 fan. Most PWM controlled headers can control up to about 8 fans.

Just be sure you have a PWM controlled headed head to run them with.







Usually only the CPU fan header is PWM. Just set fan's PWM to temp curve so they never go faster than needed to keep things cool


----------



## Icicle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What ciarlatano said. :thumb
> Something like a Gelid 5-way PWM splitter with PSU power or a Swiftech 8-way PWM hub also with PSU power works very well for 4 fan. Most PWM controlled headers can control up to about 8 fans.
> 
> Just be sure you have a PWM controlled headed head to run them with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Usually only the CPU fan header is PWM. Just set fan's PWM to temp curve so they never go faster than needed to keep things cool


Yep, sorry of it didn't come out clearly. I did mean that I'll be using the Swiftech PWM splitter powered directly via PSU (it has a Sata power connection to PSU I think). My only apprehension was that controlling all these directly via CPU header would lead to them spiking to max RPM under load, but I'll try Speedfan/ silent bios profile etc. to alleviate that.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Icicle*
> 
> I'm looking to use both of these Cryorigs along with 2 Noctuas on a mini itx case in Ncase M1 - all controlled by CPU fan header (connected via PWM splitter powered by Sata).
> 
> Given I'd be connecting 4 fans to same header, I was not sure if I'd be able to implement accurate control using PWM. My goal is to keep all fans silent, which I think implies less than 950-1000RPM max on the Cryorigs? Hence, I thought the simplest way might be to just put voltage adapters on all of the fans.
> 
> I thought I'd use the Grid+ v2, but that doesn't play nice with Noctua PWM fans, and I have not come across anyone using that with Cryorigs either. I don't have the case or fans in hand yet (still using the SG13 setup in sig) so I'm planning/hypothesizing right now.


I will be seriously surprised if you have any problems at all. Like I said, 6-8 fans is usually not a problem.


----------



## atomicus

What's the deal with the H7 Quad Lumi... when might we see that released?


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Icicle*
> 
> I'm looking to use both of these Cryorigs along with 2 Noctuas on a mini itx case in Ncase M1 - all controlled by CPU fan header (connected via PWM splitter powered by Sata).
> 
> Given I'd be connecting 4 fans to same header, I was not sure if I'd be able to implement accurate control using PWM. My goal is to keep all fans silent,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> which I think implies less than 950-1000RPM max on the Cryorigs? Hence, I thought the simplest way might be to just put voltage adapters on all of the fans.
> 
> I thought I'd use the Grid+ v2, but that doesn't play nice with Noctua PWM fans, and I have not come across anyone using that with Cryorigs either. I don't have the case or fans in hand yet (still using the SG13 setup in sig) so I'm planning/hypothesizing right now.


A comment on your goal of keeping all fans silent.

On my system, I could not get the XF140s to slow down enough. I don't have my notes but I think 780 RPM was the lowest I could get them down to. Perhaps it is my MoBo, or perhaps it was speedfan not really working correctly on this one fan header, but I ended up replacing the XF140 fans with Phanteks PH-F140HP fans. I recall the slowest speed my Mobo could drop the XF140s to was about 780 RPM, and, I could still hear them even at idle. The Phanteks spin down to about 625 RPM where they are "nearly silent". I say "nearly silent" as they are the second loudest part in my system ( HDDs are the loudest) but at idle I can barely hear them.

My point is, if you don't already have the XF140, perhaps there is a different fan that is quieter.

And, I'm not sure if you saw this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SomgB-9S9Kw for the XF140 fans at different speeds.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> What's the deal with the H7 Quad Lumi... when might we see that released?


Quote:


> At the core the H7 Quad Lumi is based on the ultra-successful CRYORIG H7. What is changed besides the addition of the Lumi lighting system is an upgrade to four high performance heatpipe for added TDP capacity, a new QF120 LED 1.600 RPM fan and also a reworked mounting system. With the upgraded heatpipe setup, the H7 Quad Lumi has increased performance by at least 10% and now supports 150+ watt CPU's. The new Quick Mount system will also provide support for LGA2011 v3 as well as continue support for LGA115x and AMD sockets. Supporting all latest offerings from Intel and AMD. The QF120 LED version is a PWM controlled 300 to 1.600 RPM white LED fan. Features of the QF120 LED include built in Acoustic Absorbers, Quad Air Inlet™ system for added air intake and white LED lighting. CRYORIG's QF120 line of fans will soon all feature LED variants.


http://www.cryorig.com/news.php?id=62

I'm hoping for a release date before X-mas


----------



## Icicle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> A comment on your goal of keeping all fans silent.
> 
> On my system, I could not get the XF140s to slow down enough. I don't have my notes but I think 780 RPM was the lowest I could get them down to. Perhaps it is my MoBo, or perhaps it was speedfan not really working correctly on this one fan header, but I ended up replacing the XF140 fans with Phanteks PH-F140HP fans. I recall the slowest speed my Mobo could drop the XF140s to was about 780 RPM, and, I could still hear them even at idle. The Phanteks spin down to about 625 RPM where they are "nearly silent". I say "nearly silent" as they are the second loudest part in my system ( HDDs are the loudest) but at idle I can barely hear them.
> 
> My point is, if you don't already have the XF140, perhaps there is a different fan that is quieter.
> 
> And, I'm not sure if you saw this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SomgB-9S9Kw for the XF140 fans at different speeds.


Thanks for the note. This is helpful, and something I was apprehensive of. I haven't yet procured the XF140 and XT140 so I'm definitely exploring other options. I do have silence as a prime goal, to which end I've already eliminated HDDs from my system quite some time back (I currently run 4 SSDs in the SG13). I will look at the other fan options like Noctua and Phanteks.

I was looking at the Cryorig fan duo as they are theoretically a good match for the Noctua C14 cooler in the specific case of NCASE M1. They are designed to work together in push-pull at matched RPMs (R1 Universal already uses them as such) and the thin XT140 allows for the specific fit in NCASE alongside the SFX PSU, high profile ram etc.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Icicle*
> 
> Thanks for the note. This is helpful, and something I was apprehensive of. I haven't yet procured the XF140 and XT140 so I'm definitely exploring other options. I do have silence as a prime goal, to which end I've already eliminated HDDs from my system quite some time back (I currently run 4 SSDs in the SG13). I will look at the other fan options like Noctua and Phanteks.
> 
> I was looking at the Cryorig fan duo as they are theoretically a good match for the Noctua C14 cooler in the specific case of NCASE M1. They are designed to work together in push-pull at matched RPMs (R1 Universal already uses them as such) and the thin XT140 allows for the specific fit in NCASE alongside the SFX PSU, high profile ram etc.


One of the things this system has struggled with has been fan control, and I'm not convinced speedfan was able to set the speed as low as the fans could go per "spec".

This article shows lower speeds than I was able to get. 684 RPM for the XF140 ( and 727 RPM for the XT140 ) http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1423-page5.html

And, This statement is what led me to buy the R1 ultimate vs the universal.

_"The measurable noise difference between the Ultimate and Universal's fans is quite interesting. The Ultimate's fans are only louder at 12V --- as the voltage is reduced, it actually becomes quieter, beating the Universal at every test level by 1~3 dB. The two fans have a similar nominal speed, but the larger XF140 slows down quicker. Subjectively, we also find that the XT140 sounds worse, so in the end, the Ultimate's matched fans have better acoustics and are capable of achieving a lower overall noise level to boot."_

If I could drop the cryorig fans 100 RPM, it would be quieter at idle than it was, and it would be interesting to compare this to the sound of the Phanteks. I guess I should re-test the XF-140s and do a head-to-head temp test and listen more closely, ... Someday...


----------



## Icicle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> One of the things this system has struggled with has been fan control, and I'm not convinced speedfan was able to set the speed as low as the fans could go per "spec".
> 
> This article shows lower speeds than I was able to get. 684 RPM for the XF140 ( and 727 RPM for the XT140 ) http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1423-page5.html
> 
> And, This statement is what led me to buy the R1 ultimate vs the universal.
> 
> _"The measurable noise difference between the Ultimate and Universal's fans is quite interesting. The Ultimate's fans are only louder at 12V --- as the voltage is reduced, it actually becomes quieter, beating the Universal at every test level by 1~3 dB. The two fans have a similar nominal speed, but the larger XF140 slows down quicker. Subjectively, we also find that the XT140 sounds worse, so in the end, the Ultimate's matched fans have better acoustics and are capable of achieving a lower overall noise level to boot."_
> 
> If I could drop the cryorig fans 100 RPM, it would be quieter at idle than it was, and it would be interesting to compare this to the sound of the Phanteks. I guess I should re-test the XF-140s and do a head-to-head temp test and listen more closely, ... Someday...


Hmm, I may just go with Noctuas I think, equipped with LNAs and further customized using silent fan profiles. My 4790K does 5GHz at around 1.36V but that also allows it to do respectable speeds like 4.8 @ 1.26 (current daily driver) or 4.7 @ 1.2. I'm willing to go lower to run a silent system.


----------



## Shneiky

I have strapped 2 TY-147A to my R1 Ultimate - my motherboard can't make them idle at 300 but 450 - which is a very nice improvement over the 760 from the XF140s. The test below was made using Prime95 with AVX.



Plus - the TY147As have different sound characteristics - the foam from the NZXT440 with solid side panel that I have has much easier time dampening the noise profile of the TYs. Noise profile has as much impact on perceived noise as the db.

Then again - when I went with the R1 Ultimate - it was on sale for 62 EUR - while the D14 and D15 were 90 and 100 respectively. So spending 11 EUR per TY147A was a bargain in the end.

Check my signature for my take on super silent workstation.


----------



## Icicle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> I have strapped 2 TY-147A to my R1 Ultimate - my motherboard can't make them idle at 300 but 450 - which is a very nice improvement over the 760 from the XF140s. The test below was made using Prime95 with AVX.
> 
> 
> 
> Plus - the TY147As have different sound characteristics - the foam from the NZXT440 with solid side panel that I have has much easier time dampening the noise profile of the TYs. Noise profile has as much impact on perceived noise as the db.
> 
> Then again - when I went with the R1 Ultimate - it was on sale for 62 EUR - while the D14 and D15 were 90 and 100 respectively. So spending 11 EUR per TY147A was a bargain in the end.
> 
> Check my signature for my take on super silent workstation.


Read your post on how you redid the airflow in H440. Quite informative, and likely helpful for a friend of mine who uses the H440. How did you set fixed 5V to the fans?


----------



## doyll

I'm running TY-147A fans on mine as well. This is R1 Ultimate with TY-147A fans. I'm now using R1 Universal with same fans and black shrouds, so looks the same.

Like Shneiky says, they not only idle at lower speed but also have a nicer sound profile.

I like SilentPC reviews, but even with all the work they do they cannot show us the differences our ears hear between different fans. But it'\s not just the lower rpm, but also the actual sound fans make. The XF140 and XT140 fan do not sound as nice to my ears as others .. like TY-147A.

I have both R1 Universal and Ultimate, and with same fans they perform the same. The differences between the coolers is not just the front faan change, but also the heatpipes of Universal are shaped slightly different. This moves the back finpack back an additional 3mm and front finpack back 4.5mm .. which narrows the space between finpacks by 1.5mm. The end result is that front of cooler without fans is 4.5mm closer to CPU centerline.


----------



## Kutalion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Usually only the CPU fan header is PWM. Just set fan's PWM to temp curve so they never go faster than needed to keep things cool


Might have been true few years ago, but not any more. Newer Asus boards have all headers with both pwm and dc control over fans.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Might have been true few years ago, but not any more. Newer Asus boards have all headers with both pwm and dc control over fans.


"Usually only the CPU fan header is PWM" is a true statement now and a few years ago.

I would rather advise potential users of the likelihood of not having PWM control on other headers than have them tearing their hair out because they can't get their new PWM fan hub to work. I can deal withe the few that will come back later saying they found out some or all of their other fan headers are also PWM controlled.









Yes, the newer Asus motherboards have PWM control on more or all 4-pin headers. But for several years Asus claimed they had PWM control on 4-pin headers when they were not PWM at all. Asus motherboard owners who do not know the above could fight for every trying to get PWM control from Asus motherboards claiming PWM control .. even if they asked Asus I don't know if they would be told they are not PWM. Asus told many a few years ago they were PWM when they were not.

In other words, just because Asus specs say they have PWM control on motherboard from 'a few years ago' does not mean they were (or are) really PWM signal controlled.

If we randomly picked 100 users here in Air Cooling forum, I'll bet you a pint of your favorite that more than 90% will likely be using motherboards with only the CPU fan header having PWM control.


----------



## Shneiky

@Icicle,

I am using a PWM splitter for the 3 TYs - it has a molex connection so it is using the PWM signal from the motherboard and power directly from the PSU. The other 6 fans are plugged in the 440 fan hub - mind you - I have second edition - so the controller is PWM and has DC outlets. I have that plugged to my 2nd PWM controller on the motherboard.

I have set a target CPU temp of 65C - all fan speeds are controlled by that - none of them are statically set to 5v. Though the way I had them set up - the CPU fans start ramping up way quicker than the case fans. I discovered that the CPU fans need to go over 700 RPM for the case fans at their idle 800 and 600 rpm to be insufficient. Which with my level of overclock and usage (3D Rendering even with AVX) - does not happen. It only happens under Prime95 with AVX.


----------



## Icicle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> @Icicle,
> 
> I am using a PWM splitter for the 3 TYs - it has a molex connection so it is using the PWM signal from the motherboard and power directly from the PSU. The other 6 fans are plugged in the 440 fan hub - mind you - I have second edition - so the controller is PWM and has DC outlets. I have that plugged to my 2nd PWM controller on the motherboard.
> 
> I have set a target CPU temp of 65C - all fan speeds are controlled by that - none of them are statically set to 5v. Though the way I had them set up - the CPU fans start ramping up way quicker than the case fans. I discovered that the CPU fans need to go over 700 RPM for the case fans at their idle 800 and 600 rpm to be insufficient. Which with my level of overclock and usage (3D Rendering even with AVX) - does not happen. It only happens under Prime95 with AVX.


Thanks for the info!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> @Icicle,
> 
> I am using a PWM splitter for the 3 TYs - it has a molex connection so it is using the PWM signal from the motherboard and power directly from the PSU. The other 6 fans are plugged in the 440 fan hub - mind you - I have second edition - so the controller is PWM and has DC outlets. I have that plugged to my 2nd PWM controller on the motherboard.
> 
> I have set a target CPU temp of 65C - all fan speeds are controlled by that - none of them are statically set to 5v. Though the way I had them set up - the CPU fans start ramping up way quicker than the case fans. I discovered that the CPU fans need to go over 700 RPM for the case fans at their idle 800 and 600 rpm to be insufficient. Which with my level of overclock and usage (3D Rendering even with AVX) - does not happen. It only happens under Prime95 with AVX.


Sounds like a well optimized airflow system .. cool and quiet.


----------



## Shneiky

@Icycle,

Also keep in mind that I am using a 650TI - which is approx. 120W card. When torturing both the CPU and the GPU, I noticed that after a while the hot air from the PCB starts having an impact on CPU cooling. I have Asus dual fan edition and even though most of the hot air is forced from the back of the case due to the pressure from top and front, the configuration I have set up will work best with blower style cards. All in all - I rate the 440 as a case for around 250-300W of components - any more and the case struggles due to its restrictive nature - hence you must compensate with cooling. In such scenarios - actually using XF140s with their overall higher pressure compared to TYs could be a plus.


----------



## Icicle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> @Icycle,
> 
> Also keep in mind that I am using a 650TI - which is approx. 120W card. When torturing both the CPU and the GPU, I noticed that after a while the hot air from the PCB starts having an impact on CPU cooling. I have Asus dual fan edition and even though most of the hot air is forced from the back of the case due to the pressure from top and front, the configuration I have set up will work best with blower style cards. All in all - I rate the 440 as a case for around 250-300W of components - any more and the case struggles due to its restrictive nature - hence you must compensate with cooling. In such scenarios - actually using XF140s with their overall higher pressure compared to TYs could be a plus.


Yes, I'm not terribly optimistic about temps at my end. I'll be using an NCASE M1 with the Noctua C14 as the CPU cooler. In the NCASE if one uses an open air GPU, the hot air rises directly up into the CPU cooler region, to be exhausted from rear and top. I'm going to be using an open air GTX 1080 with ~200W TDP (most likely Asus Strix), due to my focus on silence (blowers are far from silent in comparison I suppose). Hence, the GPU will directly affect the CPU temps in all likelihood. This is all theory of course, and I'm looking forward to seeing what kind of temps and sound levels I actually end up with.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I just realized that for some reason my fans have been running at 800rpm this entire time... Now to just figure out how to make my z87x-oc run them at max and I suspect I'll be able to run BOINC stable at 4.5-4.6GHz,or at least game at those speeds... And maintain a much cooler cpu core temp ^_^;;;;


It is likely your bios is controlling your fan speed as long your cpus fans from R1 is connected to CPU header.
You can get more control by using software like Speedfan to get better PWM control.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> It is likely your bios is controlling your fan speed as long your cpus fans from R1 is connected to CPU header.
> You can get more control by using software like Speedfan to get better PWM control.


Weird thing is they're set to full speed in the bios, but I think I know what's happened.. OpenHWMonitor is reading the case fans as cpu fans for some reason, because in the bios it says cpu fans are running at 1400ish rpm, and noise doesn't change when I go into windows (at least if you ignore the short burst of noise from the gpu fans on start up).


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Weird thing is they're set to full speed in the bios, but I think I know what's happened.. OpenHWMonitor is reading the case fans as cpu fans for some reason, because in the bios it says cpu fans are running at 1400ish rpm, and noise doesn't change when I go into windows (at least if you ignore the short burst of noise from the gpu fans on start up).


If you are describing the Gigabyte Mobo in your sig, see if it has the ITE8620E controller. If so, you might want to check out this thread. http://www.overclock.net/t/1507050/warning-gigabyte-isn-t-offering-any-fan-control-anymore-z87-z97/120_30#post_23976530 I linked the middle of the thread because this is around the time SpeedFan 4.51 started to support the ITE8620E controller found on some Gigabyte boards ( for example, GA Z97X Gaming 5)

Assuming your board has this controller, here are some cliff notes:

Set fan speeds for all fans to manual in BIOS.
Un-install all the Gigabyte fan control software (both easytune and SIV)
Install Speedfan 4.51 or higher ( I am using SF 4.52 on my Z97X gaming 5).
in TaskManager, make sure only one SpeedFan process is running.
in Speedfan, click Configure -> Advanced tab/ chose the ITE8620E controller.
set fan controls to "software controlled' that can be set to "software controlled". The default for my setup was "SmartGuardian".
set fans controls that are "OFF" to "ON".
check the "remember settings" in the lower right corner so they stay set.

exit the configure window,
un-check automatically control fan speeds.
see if you can manually control the fans up and down. On mine I can stop all the fans but the CPU_FAN.

If that works, then you can continue to tinker with SpeedFan to set fan speed curves as needed.

here is an article about this controller and speedfan http://www.almico.com/sfarticle.php?id=6

Also, I'm not familiar with OpenHWMonitor,

I've had good results with HWiNFO64 matching the fan speeds and sensor temps shown by other tools. The temps and the fan speeds match what SpeedFan sees.

Good luck !


----------



## Dimensive

Sale on CRYORIG products over at Newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100006519%2050102430%2040000574&IsNodeId=1&Manufactory=102430&bop=And&SpeTabStoreType=1&Order=PRICE&PageSize=36


----------



## _Killswitch_

I have a Cryorig R1 Uni in my WIP build, I have used a H7, H5, C7 in family member's Pc's that seem to be working wonderfully.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Sale on CRYORIG products over at Newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100006519%2050102430%2040000574&IsNodeId=1&Manufactory=102430&bop=And&SpeTabStoreType=1&Order=PRICE&PageSize=36


Thanks!

I ordered two H7's to upgrade the stock HSs in a pair of Dell XPS 8700 desktops. I came across a video on how to easily mod the proprietary heat sink mount that Dell ships so an H7 can be installed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxbCigBDEH8

And I'm tempted to pickup a pair of R1 universal's for two upcoming builds.


----------



## doyll

@Dimensive Thanks for the link. Some nice prices for great coolers.

@Dan-H H7 is a very nice small cooler. I'm looking forward to seeing the H7 Quad Lumi and hopefully a H7 Quad without Lumi at lower price. When tested original H7 I was very impressed with how well it preforms for it's size, but my sysems all have room for bigger coolers so ...
Nice you tube guide. Very simple mod. If I have time I might grab a few images from it and do a tutorial and put it in OP.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I ordered two H7's to upgrade the stock HSs in a pair of Dell XPS 8700 desktops. I came across a video on how to easily mod the proprietary heat sink mount that Dell ships so an H7 can be installed.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxbCigBDEH8
> 
> And I'm tempted to pickup a pair of R1 universal's for two upcoming builds.


You're welcome and good luck with the mod if you go down that route.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @Dimensive Thanks for the link. Some nice prices for great coolers.


You're welcome.


----------



## Dan-H

There is a good chance I will be building a pair of gaming / programming desktops late this year early next year, so I have started a shopping list for sales.

Looking at Cryorig H5 vs R1 ultimate vs R1 universal.

I'm not sure these would get much of an OC. I was looking at the H5 ( $47 ) vs the R1s (on sale for $70)

I have two Cryorig XF140 fans that could be used with the H5, or with the universal. They were slightly louder than I wanted for my workstation that sits on top of my desk, however these will be on the floor and don't need to be as near-silent ( famous last whispers).

The first draft looks like this:The only thing for sure on this build is the PSU since I already own them.
PCPartPicker part list

*CPU:* Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($328.89 @ OutletPC)
*CPU Cooler:* CRYORIG R1 Ultimate 76.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($69.99 @ Newegg Marketplace)
*Motherboard:* Gigabyte GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($144.99 @ B&H)
*Memory:* G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($102.98 @ Amazon)
*Storage:* Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($168.95 @ Amazon)
*Storage:* Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.89 @ OutletPC)
*Video Card:* MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($418.88 @ OutletPC)
*Case:* Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($85.98 @ Newegg)
*Power Supply:* SeaSonic 660W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $75.00)
*Optical Drive:* Pioneer BDR-209DBK Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($59.79 @ OutletPC)
*Operating System:* Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($98.99 @ My Choice Software)
*Total:* $1603.33

Thoughts on coolers?
smaller for more case flexibility? or go with the R1.

Or ???


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> There is a good chance I will be building a pair of gaming / programming desktops late this year early next year, so I have started a shopping list for sales.
> 
> Looking at Cryorig H5 vs R1 ultimate vs R1 universal.
> 
> I'm not sure these would get much of an OC. I was looking at the H5 ( $47 ) vs the R1s (on sale for $70)
> 
> I have two Cryorig XF140 fans that could be used with the H5, or with the universal. They were slightly louder than I wanted for my workstation that sits on top of my desk, however these will be on the floor and don't need to be as near-silent ( famous last whispers).
> 
> The first draft looks like this:The only thing for sure on this build is the PSU since I already own them.
> PCPartPicker part list
> 
> *CPU:* Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($328.89 @ OutletPC)
> *CPU Cooler:* CRYORIG R1 Ultimate 76.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($69.99 @ Newegg Marketplace)
> *Motherboard:* Gigabyte GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($144.99 @ B&H)
> *Memory:* G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($102.98 @ Amazon)
> *Storage:* Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($168.95 @ Amazon)
> *Storage:* Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.89 @ OutletPC)
> *Video Card:* MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($418.88 @ OutletPC)
> *Case:* Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($85.98 @ Newegg)
> *Power Supply:* SeaSonic 660W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $75.00)
> *Optical Drive:* Pioneer BDR-209DBK Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($59.79 @ OutletPC)
> *Operating System:* Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($98.99 @ My Choice Software)
> *Total:* $1603.33
> 
> Thoughts on coolers?
> smaller for more case flexibility? or go with the R1.
> 
> Or ???


H5 will be plenty of cooler for 6700K.
I agree their fans are not as nice sounding as some, but not bad either.
If you are not going to OC, do you need K model CPU?
Have you looked at Phanteks cases? I like them at least as well ad FD and similar prices for Enthoo Pro, Luxe is a few dollars more. The PSU filter does not slide out the front from factory, but a simple mod with a spacer and tape fixes that. For more info, just ask


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> *Case:* Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($85.98 @ Newegg)
> *Optical Drive:* Pioneer BDR-209DBK Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($59.79 @ OutletPC)


A little of topic, but if you can do away with the Optical drive(or replace it with an external unit). Fractal just released the Define C, which is a lot more compact and more suited for air cooling.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

*Case:* Fractal Design Define C ATX Mid Tower Case ($94.98 @ Newegg)
*Other:* ASUS USB 2.0 / USB 3.0 External 12X Blu-Ray Writer ($69.99 @ Newegg)
*Total:* $164.97


----------



## doyll

I wondered about the need for optical drive too. USB 3.0 external are usually plenty fast and even if used regularly it might be easier to access on desk then below.
+rep
Define C looks very good!








There are much lower priced USB 3.0 DVD drives if Blu-Ray is not need


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> H5 will be plenty of cooler for 6700K.
> I agree their fans are not as nice sounding as some, but not bad either.
> If you are not going to OC, do you need K model CPU?
> Have you looked at Phanteks cases? I like them at least as well ad FD and similar prices for Enthoo Pro, Luxe is a few dollars more. The PSU filter does not slide out the front from factory, but a simple mod with a spacer and tape fixes that. For more info, just ask


Sorry, 6700K will be a mild OC, I want it very safe and stable. Target let's say 4.4Ghz or 4.5Ghz with Voltage around 1.2V vCore. These systems need to be a set it and forget it level (I hope) so it will need to be a little conservative. Also the price difference from the 6700 to the 6700K is about $20 to $25.

I have glanced at the Phanteks and will look at them more. Will it fit the R1?

I'm leaning towards the R1 Universal. I found an extra $25 off for orders $150 or more so it drops a pair of R1s down to $58 each.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> A little of topic, but if you can do away with the Optical drive(or replace it with an external unit). Fractal just released the Define C, which is a lot more compact and more suited for air cooling.
> 
> PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
> 
> *Case:* Fractal Design Define C ATX Mid Tower Case ($94.98 @ Newegg)
> *Other:* ASUS USB 2.0 / USB 3.0 External 12X Blu-Ray Writer ($69.99 @ Newegg)
> *Total:* $164.97


I'll take a look at the C. I saw it released but haven't really looked at case choices. The external drive might be an option, but desk space is a bit limited. I'll look into that. Thanks!


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have you looked at Phanteks cases? I like them at least as well ad FD and similar prices for Enthoo Pro, Luxe is a few dollars more. The PSU filter does not slide out the front from factory, but a simple mod with a spacer and tape fixes that. For more info, just ask


Sale is ending... I went with two of the R1 universal.

Should I take the case discussion to another thread? It is still semi relevant as not all the cases will fit the Cryorig R1.

How is the 200mm fan on the Enthoo Pro and Luxe ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> Sale is ending... I went with two of the R1 universal.
> 
> Should I take the case discussion to another thread? It is still semi relevant as not all the cases will fit the Cryorig R1.
> 
> How is the 200mm fan on the Enthoo Pro and Luxe ?


Sales are only about to start .. I'll bent you a pint of your favorite we will see better prices by end of the month. But that's Sod's law









200mm fan is almost junk in my opinion. New Luxe TG is 2x 140mm front fans.









Pro M might fit your needs; 2x 140mm front, 1x 140mm rear, but no bottom vents except PSU and PSU filter is out the back.

Back to the optical drive, an external USB 3.0 could be attached to top of a case with Velcro or 2-sided tape .. and can be had for about $20.00.

Maybe I'm OCD, but I really like being able to remove all bottom filters from front of case. It means I can easily clean all intakes on front and bottom without moving system .. meaning no need to crawl under the desk to move it or fiddle with cables when something isn't working after cleaning. It makes cleaning filters as part of routine house cleaning a breeze.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sales are only about to start .. I'll bent you a pint of your favorite we will see better prices by end of the month. But that's Sod's law
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 200mm fan is almost junk in my opinion. New Luxe TG is 2x 140mm front fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> might fit your needs; 2x 140mm front, 1x 140mm rear, but no bottom vents except PSU and PSU filter is out the back.
> 
> Back to the optical drive, an external USB 3.0 could be attached to top of a case with Velcro or 2-sided tape .. and can be had for about $20.00.
> 
> Maybe I'm OCD, but I really like being able to remove all bottom filters from front of case. It means I can easily clean all intakes on front and bottom without moving system .. meaning no need to crawl under the desk to move it or fiddle with cables when something isn't working after cleaning. It makes cleaning filters as part of routine house cleaning a breeze.


You may be right that there will be a better sale tomorrow., but that's the best price I've ever seen for the R1 when I tacked the extra $12.50 off (each) using checkout shenanigans.

OCD?? Obsessively Clean Doyll?







But seriously, I agree with you on the filters.

That said, I'm going to take the case discussion to another thread and end the thread hijack.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

For those of you who own the Cryorig M9i cooler, how well does it perform? Is the fan noisy? If I decided to do so, can I replace it with a different brand?

Thanks in advance, guys!

And to doyll, you are so very helpful to others! Do you ever go to sleep?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> For those of you who own the Cryorig M9i cooler, how well does it perform? Is the fan noisy? If I decided to do so, can I replace it with a different brand?
> 
> Thanks in advance, guys!
> 
> And to doyll, you are so very helpful to others! Do you ever go to sleep?


Don't own one, but from what I've read. It performs about as well as you can expect from a 92mm cooler of that size, so decent performance on stock chips, okay performance on reasonable overclock and forget anything extreme.

Its also fairly quiet for a 92mm cooler and you can replace the fan with any 25mm thick 92mm fan you want.

So if your expectations are reasonable, its a pretty good cooler, especially for the price. Definitely the best looking one in that price range.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> For those of you who own the Cryorig M9i cooler, how well does it perform? Is the fan noisy? If I decided to do so, can I replace it with a different brand?
> 
> Thanks in advance, guys!
> 
> And to doyll, you are so very helpful to others! Do you ever go to sleep?


M9i is very good for it's size. It cools better than Hyper 212 and similar to NH-U12S .. better at stock but not quite as good at higher overclocks .. all while being quieter than NH-D15.

The only reason I'm not running one on a system is because all system have room for bigger coolers and I have bigger coolers to use .. and 'bigger is better', right?


----------



## ruffhi

I have one sitting in my HTPC. It doesn't get taxed much ... but it is quiet.


----------



## doyll

M9 is amazing for it's size.

I tend to ignore small coolers because all my build are ATX in mid-sized cases. No need for small coolers. So I test them, rave about how good they are, set them on the shelf and forget them.









Maybe I need to get some mATX / ITX platforms and smaller cases.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> M9 is amazing for it's size.
> 
> I tend to ignore small coolers because all my build are ATX in mid-sized cases. No need for small coolers. So I test them, rave about how good they are, set them on the shelf and forget them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I need to get some mATX / ITX platforms and smaller cases.


I personally really like mATX, gives you space savings with very little compromise. M-ITX is great for portable stuff, but the coolers involved there aren't very interesting, and the big ITX cases make no sense imo.

M-DTX would be cool but no one is making those boards.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I personally really like mATX, gives you space savings with very little compromise. M-ITX is great for portable stuff, but the coolers involved there aren't very interesting, and the big ITX cases make no sense imo.
> 
> M-DTX would be cool but no one is making those boards.


My 6700K is on MSI Z170M Mortar mATX motherboard.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

The Cryorig H7 is currently on sale for $29.90. The Cryorig M9i is $19.99. I am having a difficult decision on deciding between these 2. I will NOT be overclocking my i7-4771 (Non-K) CPU, but the area this system will be located will be very warm during the summer months, and I am wondering if the H7 would be the better choice in this situation.

Owners of both coolers speak up! I am desperate! LOL









All this fuss over a stupid cooler!


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> The Cryorig H7 is currently on sale for $29.90. The Cryorig M9i is $19.99. I am having a difficult decision on deciding between these 2. I will NOT be overclocking my i7-4771 (Non-K) CPU, but the area this system will be located will be very warm during the summer months, and I am wondering if the H7 would be the better choice in this situation.
> 
> Owners of both coolers speak up! I am desperate! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All this fuss over a stupid cooler!


If you can fit the H7, get the H7. Unless you want to spend as little money as possible, then get the M9i, which will work just fine.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> The Cryorig H7 is currently on sale for $29.90. The Cryorig M9i is $19.99. I am having a difficult decision on deciding between these 2. I will NOT be overclocking my i7-4771 (Non-K) CPU, but the area this system will be located will be very warm during the summer months, and I am wondering if the H7 would be the better choice in this situation.
> 
> Owners of both coolers speak up! I am desperate! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All this fuss over a stupid cooler!


H7 Ultimatel or H7 Universal? The fan difference does affect temps a little ..

TechPowerUp tested both in same i7-4770K @ 3.7 GHz & 4.2 GHz OC system

. . . . . . WPrime . . AIDA64
. . . . . . M9i . H7. . M9i . H7
3.7GHz 61c . 59c . 80c . 75c
4.2GHz 70c . 68c . 94c . 89c

Noise levels
. . . . 30%. . 50%. . 100%
M9i . 32dBA 35dBA 41dBA
H7. . 32dBA 35dBA 43dBA

You make your own decision.
https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/CRYORIG/H7_Universal/6.html
https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/CRYORIG/M9i/6.html


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> H7 Ultimatel or H7 Universal? The fan difference does affect temps a little ..


H7 Ultimate/Universal? Isn't there only one version of the H7?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> H7 Ultimate/Universal? Isn't there only one version of the H7?










Ignore me. I was on my first cup of coffee and not thinking.
**busily wipes egg off face**
and edits original post
But the H7 Quad Lumi should be coming out before too much longer .. a 4 pipe version with LEDs.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> H7 Ultimate/Universal? Isn't there only one version of the H7?


I have actually seen it called ultimate and universal. Not sure if there ever was such a cooler, but there is ONLY one listed now on Cryorig's website, and it's simply called H7.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ignore me. I was on my first cup of coffee and not thinking.
> **busily wipes egg off face**
> and edits original post
> But the H7 Quad Lumi should be coming out before too much longer .. a 4 pipe version with LEDs.












Yeah, I heard about the H7 Quad Lumi. Supposedly will have a better mounting system as well.


----------



## Nickyvida

Hi, may i know if my Cryorig H5 universal will be compatible with the upcoming AM4 motherboards? I am currently using an LGA-1150 board and am intending to upgrade so i am not sure if that is the case.

Thank you.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Hi, may i know if my Cryorig H5 universal will be compatible with the upcoming AM4 motherboards? I am currently using an LGA-1150 board and am intending to upgrade so i am not sure if that is the case.
> 
> Thank you.


I have seen reports both saying AM3/3+ mount and AM4 are same and saying they are not.
The last thing i read said AM4 mount was 90mm x 5mm.
AM3/3+ are 96mm x 48mm
CPU Length Height

Final word is I don't know, but it is looking like AM4 has different mounting hole spacing.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have seen reports both saying AM3/3+ mount and AM4 are same and saying they are not.
> The last thing i read said AM4 mount was 90mm x 5mm.
> AM3/3+ are 96mm x 48mm
> CPU Length Height
> 
> Final word is I don't know, but it is looking like AM4 has different mounting hole spacing.


so it means it might not be compatible and i might have to spring for a new compatible cooler? o.o
From this report it says it is not compatible.
Quote:


> The new socket will apparently require a new cooler design, which is contrary to early reports (yes, we got it wrong, too) that the AM4 socket would be compatible with existing AM3 cooler mounts


https://www.pcper.com/news/Processors/AMDs-Upcoming-Socket-AM4-Pictured-1331-Pins


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> so it means it might not be compatible and i might have to spring for a new compatible cooler? o.o
> From this report it says it is not compatible.
> https://www.pcper.com/news/Processors/AMDs-Upcoming-Socket-AM4-Pictured-1331-Pins


Either that or ask Cryorig to send out a new mounting kit if one is required. Hopefully theyll be available very soon after release, if Zen turns out to be popular they would be shooting themselves in the foot if they didnt so it should be O.K, I hope.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> so it means it might not be compatible and i might have to spring for a new compatible cooler? o.o
> From this report it says it is not compatible.
> https://www.pcper.com/news/Processors/AMDs-Upcoming-Socket-AM4-Pictured-1331-Pins


I've seen that too. But I have not seen any official announcement for AMD about new AM4 mount.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> Either that or ask Cryorig to send out a new mounting kit if one is required. Hopefully theyll be available very soon after release, if Zen turns out to be popular they would be shooting themselves in the foot if they didnt so it should be O.K, I hope.











I contacted Cryorig asking about this, but haven't heard back yet.








I will post it as soon as I know.


----------



## doyll

***Unoffically offical AM4 mount notice***

"Official Statement" is as I guess, no official size has been announced by AMD yet. AMD is till waffling, so no official mount size, so cooler and motherboard companies cannot designed and make a mount for unknown mounting size.







.

Cryorig will supply AM4 mounts with all coolers manufactured after they know what the mount is and free upgrades to owners buying cooler for AM4 that do not have AM4 mount. Cryiorig will only ask for proof that the person requesting the AM4 mount does in fact have an AM4 motherboard. For owners of older coolers there will be a small cost for shipping them the mount.
Quote:


> Like always, we will include the new kits in newly produced stock, and provide a "close to" free option to apply for the kit if it was bought after the Ryzen launch and a shipping cost only upgrade for old units. For the free kits for users building from scratch we will require some sort of easy proof that they indeed have a AM4 system, simple photo of the CPU, AM4 board and proof of purchase of a CRYORIG will do. I know it's a bit of work for users, but we need to make sure that we're not wasting shipping and have enough resource to support those that are genuinely in need of a AM4
> heatsink kit.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> ***Unoffically offical AM4 mount notice***
> 
> "Official Statement" is as I guess, no official size has been announced by AMD yet. AMD is till waffling, so no official mount size, so cooler and motherboard companies cannot designed and make a mount for unknown mounting size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Cryorig will supply AM4 mounts with all coolers manufactured after they know what the mount is and free upgrades to owners buying cooler for AM4 that do not have AM4 mount. Cryiorig will only ask for proof that the person requesting the AM4 mount does in fact have an AM4 motherboard. For owners of older coolers there will be a small cost for shipping them the mount.


So it means i have to pay for the mount as im an existing user on an intel board intending to upgrade?

Sucks that existing owners have to cough up.







.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> So it means i have to pay for the mount as im an existing user on an intel board intending to upgrade?
> 
> Sucks that existing owners have to cough up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Knowing how Cryorig has been in the past it'll probably be something meager like $3-5 at most, and would probably be shipped EMS so we would have it in a week or so,aomwtimes less.

Knowing me, I'll order a Cryorig R1 Ultimate to go with said upgrade brackets for my current one. Why? Benching rig needs a decent cooler... Assuming an R1 Ultimate will even fit on an Asus P5E or Rampage Formula. I should probably verify that first


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> So it means i have to pay for the mount as im an existing user on an intel board intending to upgrade?
> 
> Sucks that existing owners have to cough up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Cryorig is not making you to 'pay' or 'cough up' anything.















All they want is for you prove to them you are indeed build a new AM4 system with a Cryorig cooler and to cover the cost of shipping you a new AM4 mount to you .. A few dollars / euros / pounds for shipping/postage for an upgrade so I can keep using my cooler is not a big deal .. at least not to me. It is even possible that with a little luck they may even have them available from retailers near us and we could walk in and pick one up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Knowing how Cryorig has been in the past it'll probably be something meager like $3-5 at most, and would probably be shipped EMS so we would have it in a week or so,aomwtimes less.
> 
> Knowing me, I'll order a Cryorig R1 Ultimate to go with said upgrade brackets for my current one. Why? Benching rig needs a decent cooler... Assuming an R1 Ultimate will even fit on an Asus P5E or Rampage Formula. I should probably verify that first


Indeed. Not a big deal at all.









And again, Indeed! I worry much more about CPU socket placement and resulting CPU to PCIe socket clearance than than a few dollars for postage. While R1 Ultimate might not clear RAM, I doubt R1 Universal wll have any RAM clearance problems. I would suggest going with R1 Universal and if needed get another XF140 fan to replace the thinner XT140 to get same performance as Ultimate has if you need the extra 1-2c.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Cryorig is not making you to 'pay' or 'cough up' anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All they want is for you prove to them you are indeed build a new AM4 system with a Cryorig cooler and to cover the cost of shipping you a new AM4 mount to you .. A few dollars / euros / pounds for shipping/postage for an upgrade so I can keep using my cooler is not a big deal .. at least not to me. It is even possible that with a little luck they may even have them available from retailers near us and we could walk in and pick one up.
> Indeed. Not a big deal at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And again, Indeed! I worry much more about CPU socket placement and resulting CPU to PCIe socket clearance than than a few dollars for postage. While R1 Ultimate might not clear RAM, I doubt R1 Universal wll have any RAM clearance problems. I would suggest going with R1 Universal and if needed get another XF140 fan to replace the thinner XT140 to get same performance as Ultimate has if you need the extra 1-2c.


Hmm, going with the universal would make since given that I have insanely silly high ram on my benching rig (OCZ Reapers)... And I can guarantee that an R1 would cool much better than my cobbled together Thermaltake Frio Advanced (aka one of the fans died so I took threaded rod, made room for said threaded rod by spreading the fins somewhat, and then used two Cougar 120mm fans instead). There's also the benefit of the R1 series absolutely demolishing my current benching heatsink (because one can't always go subzero a due to various reasons), and I suspect it would look insanely gorgeous on my OpenBenchTable too. Would be nice to be able to push things a tad harder while on air. ^_^

PCIe slot won't be a problem because I typically use the lower one when benching, at least on that board. Won't have that luxury later on when my benching rig finally has gear that isn't half a decade old, but Haswell and I suspect Ryzen boards tend to have more clearance around the socket compared to the LGA 775 days


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Hmm, going with the universal would make since given that I have insanely silly high ram on my benching rig (OCZ Reapers)... And I can guarantee that an R1 would cool much better than my cobbled together Thermaltake Frio Advanced (aka one of the fans died so I took threaded rod, made room for said threaded rod by spreading the fins somewhat, and then used two Cougar 120mm fans instead). There's also the benefit of the R1 series absolutely demolishing my current benching heatsink (because one can't always go subzero a due to various reasons), and I suspect it would look insanely gorgeous on my OpenBenchTable too. Would be nice to be able to push things a tad harder while on air. ^_^
> 
> PCIe slot won't be a problem because I typically use the lower one when benching, at least on that board. Won't have that luxury later on when my benching rig finally has gear that isn't half a decade old, but Haswell and I suspect Ryzen boards tend to have more clearance around the socket compared to the LGA 775 days


Not all, but most ATX motherboards have CPU socket far enough from 1st x16 PCIe socket to clear coolers 70mm center CPU toward PCIe sockets.

My guess is with hi-performance fans like TY-143 the R1 coolers will cool 5-7c better than with stock fans, but obviously not as quietly.

Indeed, the R1 is very nice looking, and if you get CustoMod covers (cooler shrouds) to match motherboard colors they look even better.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Not all, but most ATX motherboards have CPU socket far enough from 1st x16 PCIe socket to clear coolers 70mm center CPU toward PCIe sockets.
> 
> My guess is with hi-performance fans like TY-143 the R1 coolers will cool 5-7c better than with stock fans, but obviously not as quietly.
> 
> Indeed, the R1 is very nice looking, and if you get CustoMod covers (cooler shrouds) to match motherboard colors they look even better.


I'd hope the custom mod makes it look good, I did win one two years ago after all ^_^

As for fans, we'll see if I consider upgrading them, as Il lasso have the grand power of an open window with Canadian winter on demand ^_^


----------



## SAMiN

Do we have more silenter option to replace XT140 with? I have recently bought H5 Universal and XT140 seem to loud to my liking!


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SAMiN*
> 
> Do we have more silenter option to replace XT140 with? I have recently bought H5 Universal and XT140 seem to loud to my liking!


Do you have room to add a thicker fan?

I replaced the XF140 fans on my R1 ultimate with Phanteks PH-F140HP . They spin down a little slower so I don't hear them at idle, and they seem to cool as well on the high end.


----------



## SAMiN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> Do you have room to add a thicker fan?
> 
> I replaced the XF140 fans on my R1 ultimate with Phanteks PH-F140HP . They spin down a little slower so I don't hear them at idle, and they seem to cool as well on the high end.


No thats the thing, I'm using all 4 memory lines and I don't have enough room, otherwise would go for Ultimate.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SAMiN*
> 
> Do we have more silenter option to replace XT140 with? I have recently bought H5 Universal and XT140 seem to loud to my liking!


Unfortunately, slim fans tend to have that issue. You can go to a quieter fan, but performance will drop as well. The XT140 is one of the best fans available for this type of application.

That said, when I tested Cryorigs with the XT140 I had no issues keeping it quiet by adjusting the fan curves to my preferences. That may be where you need to put in a little effort.


----------



## SAMiN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Unfortunately, slim fans tend to have that issue. You can go to a quieter fan, but performance will drop as well. The XT140 is one of the best fans available for this type of application.
> 
> That said, when I tested Cryorigs with the XT140 I had no issues keeping it quiet by adjusting the fan curves to my preferences. That may be where you need to put in a little effort.


Maybe I should order another XT140 or XF140 + PWM splitter to have it run on push pull in that case maybe I can set the fans to run around or under 1000rpm?

Although in my searches I found Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 14 but I don't know how it compares to XT140.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SAMiN*
> 
> Maybe I should order another XT140 or XF140 + PWM splitter to have it run on push pull in that case maybe I can set the fans to run around or under 1000rpm?
> 
> Although in my searches I found Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 14 but I don't know how it compares to XT140.


If you can get the Phantek where you live I'd look into it. if you have an extra fan header, try push pull, and spin the speed of the pull up faster than the push. The Phantek is really quiet for me on my R1 ultimate.


----------



## Dan-H

Happy New Year !

I'm finally getting around to building a pair of skylake systems ( Wish it was mine in rigbuilder). I'm not done and haven't had the time to post any pics, but I wanted to report that *in this system, the Cryorig R1 universal fans are surprisingly quiet.*

Core i7 6700K 4.9Ghz / 1.34 Vcore
Asus Maximus VIII Hero

According to Asus Fan Xpert3 and HWiNFO64 at idle:
XF140 connected to CPU_FAN is running at 575 RPM.
XT140 connected to CPU_OPT is running at 475 RPM.

These speeds are slower than I expected, and I don't trust my eyes to count the RPM by blade rotations, but I trust my ears and it is quieter than my R1 Ultimate fans were in my Daily Driver system which would not get below 780 RPM. ( which is why I replaced them )

Room temp is 68F/20C and the core temps are in the low 20s at idle.

It makes me wonder what is different on the fan header of this board vs my Gigabyte Z97X gaming 5 that allows the fans to spin down so nicely on this system.

This and several other things about these systems really do make me wish it was mine.


----------



## Kutalion

Asus boards can go even lower than min rpm spec of the fan. I had the same deal on ASUS x99-s and cryorig R1 ultimate. It is one of the many things why i'd never buy any MB that isnt ASUS.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Asus boards can go even lower than min rpm spec of the fan. I had the same deal on ASUS x99-s and cryorig R1 ultimate. It is one of the many things why i'd never buy any MB that isnt ASUS.


Thanks ! Good to know.


----------



## atomicus

Still no word on the H7 Quad Lumi then? Saw this video recently... bit 'disco'. Hopefully that can be slowed down. I don't fancy a pulsating light show in my PC 24/7.


----------



## doyll

CES 2017 just started. I'm guessing there will be some news very soon.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> CES 2017 just started. I'm guessing there will be some news very soon.


Only issue is that at the moment Intel is hogging the spotlight.... AMD will be stealing a good portion of it tomorrow... And at some point Nvidia will get their share of it all too.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Only issue is that at the moment Intel is hogging the spotlight.... AMD will be stealing a good portion of it tomorrow... And at some point Nvidia will get their share of it all too.


I was just looking at exhibitor list .. many of the top names don't seem to be on it; Noctua, be quiet!, Cryorig, Phanteks, Fractal Design, EKWB, to name a few I don't find.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I was just looking at exhibitor list .. many of the top names don't seem to be on it; Noctua, be quiet!, Cryorig, Phanteks, Fractal Design, EKWB, to name a few I don't find.


Hmmm... Hopefully we still see some interesting things from them anyways ^_^


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Hmmm... Hopefully we still see some interesting things from them anyways ^_^


I'm sure we will. I think it's more to do with how expensive it is to participate in these shows than not having anything new to show .. and they would rather invest the money in developing products rather than in a 1 week show. Phanteks officially announced the release of their new Enthoo Elite case with pre-orders in Europe and arrival 10 March 2017. I hwon't be surprised if Cryorig announces cooler and maybe a case as well. Would love to see H7 Quad. The H7 is a great cooler with 3 pipes. I think adding 4th heatpipe will give us a nice small cooler with exceptional cooling abiltiy.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I was just looking at exhibitor list .. many of the top names don't seem to be on it; Noctua, be quiet!, Cryorig, Phanteks, Fractal Design, EKWB, to name a few I don't find.


Most have a suite/room in a hotel which gives more space and a private location rather than the busy, expensive booths in the show floor.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Most have a suite/room in a hotel which gives more space and a private location rather than the busy, expensive booths in the show floor.


Yeah, some do one, the other or both. Some decided not not participate at all, but to instead use internet and other ways to reach customers. I don't know what the best way to reach the consumer market is anymore, but I suspect these big convention center gatherings are not near cost effective as they used to be.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yeah, some do one, the other or both. Some decided not not participate at all, but to instead use internet and other ways to reach customers. I don't know what the best way to reach the consumer market is anymore, but I suspect these big convention center gatherings are not near cost effective as they used to be.


Yup. Computex is basically the main/only one now for this industry.


----------



## nqduy

Anyone has the R1 on a Broadwell-E CPU? If so, what are your temps?


----------



## takt

Still not available in Canada


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Knowing how Cryorig has been in the past it'll probably be something meager like $3-5 at most, and would probably be shipped EMS so we would have it in a week or so,aomwtimes less.
> 
> Knowing me, I'll order a Cryorig R1 Ultimate to go with said upgrade brackets for my current one. Why? Benching rig needs a decent cooler... Assuming an R1 Ultimate will even fit on an Asus P5E or Rampage Formula. I should probably verify that first


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Cryorig is not making you to 'pay' or 'cough up' anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All they want is for you prove to them you are indeed build a new AM4 system with a Cryorig cooler and to cover the cost of shipping you a new AM4 mount to you .. A few dollars / euros / pounds for shipping/postage for an upgrade so I can keep using my cooler is not a big deal .. at least not to me. It is even possible that with a little luck they may even have them available from retailers near us and we could walk in and pick one up.
> Indeed. Not a big deal at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And again, Indeed! I worry much more about CPU socket placement and resulting CPU to PCIe socket clearance than than a few dollars for postage. While R1 Ultimate might not clear RAM, I doubt R1 Universal wll have any RAM clearance problems. I would suggest going with R1 Universal and if needed get another XF140 fan to replace the thinner XT140 to get same performance as Ultimate has if you need the extra 1-2c.


Yeah but still, other companies are giving them out free.Be Quiet , Noctua and Deepcool are giving them out to existing owners who are upgrading to an AM4 board. That's pretty dang sweet imo.

http://bequiet.com/en/am4

http://bequiet.com/en/am4


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Yeah but still, other companies are giving them out free.Be Quiet , Noctua and Deepcool are giving them out to existing owners who are upgrading to an AM4 board. That's pretty dang sweet imo.
> 
> http://bequiet.com/en/am4
> 
> http://bequiet.com/en/am4


Are you trying to start a fight?

Cryorig is going to give anyone who has an AM4 system and a Cryorig cooler an AM4 mount.

"Are giving" is not true.









"Will be giving" when they are available.









Not a single AM4 mount has been given to a customer .. at least none I know of. As far as I know none have even been manufactured. I was talking to on of the manufacturers last week and they haven't even had a production run of mounts for AM4 yet .. because *AMD has not yet made a formal notification of what the AM4 mount size is.*

Post # 2921 has direct quote from Cryorig about AM4 mount:
Quote:


> Like always, we will include the new kits in newly produced stock, and provide a "close to" free option to apply for the kit if it was bought after the Ryzen launch and a shipping cost only upgrade for old units. For the free kits for users building from scratch we will require some sort of easy proof that they indeed have a AM4 system, simple photo of the CPU, AM4 board and proof of purchase of a CRYORIG will do. I know it's a bit of work for users, but we need to make sure that we're not wasting shipping and have enough resource to support those that are genuinely in need of a AM4
> heatsink kit.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *takt*
> 
> Still not available in Canada


Send them an email and they can sell direct. Which reminds me, I should probably do such soon-ish as I really need a decent air cooler for my benching rig (Thermaltake Frio Advanced with Cougar fans held in place with threaded rods doesnt really cool all that well, not to mention is a nightmare to set up in the first place). Not too sure about how well an R1 Ultimate fits onto various LGA 775 boards though (like Gigabyte's ep45-ud3r, or an Asus Rampage Formula) so I'd have to look into that first.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Send them an email and they can sell direct. Which reminds me, I should probably do such soon-ish as I really need a decent air cooler for my benching rig (Thermaltake Frio Advanced with Cougar fans held in place with threaded rods doesnt really cool all that well, not to mention is a nightmare to set up in the first place). Not too sure about how well an R1 Ultimate fits onto various LGA 775 boards though (like Gigabyte's ep45-ud3r, or an Asus Rampage Formula) so I'd have to look into that first.


Might be able to help you on this.
Let me dig through my treasure chest and see.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Might be able to help you on this.
> Let me dig through my treasure chest and see.


I'm always curious as to what kinds of goodies you have in there. Sure, my current one does the job, but it's ugly and I wouldn't mind something that mounts easier, and of course can handle a much higher heat load ^_^


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Are you trying to start a fight?
> 
> Cryorig is going to give anyone who has an AM4 system and a Cryorig cooler an AM4 mount.
> 
> "Are giving" is not true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Will be giving" when they are available.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a single AM4 mount has been given to a customer .. at least none I know of. As far as I know none have even been manufactured. I was talking to on of the manufacturers last week and they haven't even had a production run of mounts for AM4 yet .. because *AMD has not yet made a formal notification of what the AM4 mount size is.*
> 
> Post # 2921 has direct quote from Cryorig about AM4 mount:


Sorry i misworded my post. I meant the free shipping of the mounts that other manufacturers are offering to existing cooler owners , compared to the quoted $3- $5 shipping cost for the mounts to existing users, although i could be wrong too.

Will wait and see what happens regarding the issue.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Sorry i misworded my post. I meant the free shipping of the mounts that other manufacturers are offering to existing cooler owners , compared to the quoted $3- $5 shipping cost for the mounts to existing users, although i could be wrong too.
> 
> Will wait and see what happens regarding the issue.


Indeed. You could be wrong. You might be partialy correct too.








Companys that give good customer support often say things like pay postage for update, or only updates for current models. But when customer contacts them about what they need the needed piece shows up in the post at no cost. All my email has my name and address below my signature. Many times I've asked some company a question about something or needing a little something, wait a week and am about to send another email and I get a knock on the door and delivery of needed piece.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Hello guys. . . I'm here to ask an important question since I'm getting the itch to build a new pc. My question is, will my R1 Universal fit on motherboard like the ASUS ROG Maximus IX Hero? Those those mobos have a big ass plastic that I think will not let them work together. I've attached a photo of both the mobo in question and the cooler I'm trying to slap on it.

Plastic in question is in yellow box:



My R1 Universal as it currently is:


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> Hello guys. . . I'm here to ask an important question since I'm getting the itch to build a new pc. My question is, will my R1 Universal fit on motherboard like the ASUS ROG Maximus IX Hero? Those those mobos have a big ass plastic that I think will not let them work together. I've attached a photo of both the mobo in question and the cooler I'm trying to slap on it.
> 
> Plastic in question is in yellow box:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My R1 Universal as it currently is:


If you can compare it to a ROG Maxiumus Hero VIII I can say it works great without any issues.



The pic above is not the best angle, but it is what I have available at the moment.

here is another angle of the ROG VIII Hero.



edit: I'll look and see if a third fan could be added, but quite frankly I don't think it is needed, at least at the voltages it is currently set at.
and note: this is the "wish it was mine" system not my signature rig.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

From the pics the ROG HERO 8/9 look pretty similar. And the 3rd fan can be taken off if it interferes, I've got it there mostly for the looks lol. I'm dreading of having to buy an AIO if my R1 doesn't fit. Don't know why all the mobo manufactures are putting that huge ass plastic in the higher end boards.


----------



## Dan-H

here is a shot with an XF140 in place as the third fan, resting on top of the plastic shroud of the Hero VIII in a Fractal R5 case.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> here is a shot with an XF140 in place as the third fan, resting on top of the plastic shroud of the Hero VIII in a Fractal R5 case.


If my eyes are still good I see that the fan is sitting higher than the first two and thus does not hookup to the cooler? Did I guess correctly?


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> If my eyes are still good I see that the fan is sitting higher than the first two and thus does not hookup to the cooler? Did I guess correctly?


it is approx 5/8 of an inch above the height of the other coolers. I was simply holding in place to show the offset but it doesn't really show well.

I'm not sure if it will slide up that high or not.

I guess I would ask if you really need the third fan or not?


----------



## dasa94

Is anyone using the H5 universal version with i7 6700k or i7 7700k? I am thinking about getting either one of those processors and wanted to know if it's a good idea for it or not?

Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dasa94*
> 
> Is anyone using the H5 universal version with i7 6700k or i7 7700k? I am thinking about getting either one of those processors and wanted to know if it's a good idea for it or not?
> 
> Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk


Why wouldn't it be a good idea?

There are alternatives around that price-point (mainly 140mm fan single towers with more height) but the Cryorig H5 is a solid performing CPU cooler.


----------



## dasa94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dasa94*
> 
> Is anyone using the H5 universal version with i7 6700k or i7 7700k? I am thinking about getting either one of those processors and wanted to know if it's a good idea for it or not?
> 
> Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Why wouldn't it be a good idea?
> 
> There are alternatives around that price-point (mainly 140mm fan single towers with more height) but the Cryorig H5 is a solid performing CPU cooler.
Click to expand...

Good idea as in will it be good for an i7 or should I go for an AIO? Never used anything other than a air cooler cus I'm always afraid that those coolers will leak.

Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dasa94*
> 
> Good idea as in will it be good for an i7 or should I go for an AIO? Never used anything other than a air cooler cus I'm always afraid that those coolers will leak.
> 
> Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk


Well, leaking isn't really the biggest concern with a CLC. The biggest concern should be the fact that the cooling is *not* perceptibly better than something like an H5, the CLC will be *significantly* louder at the same performance levels, it will cost you twice as much and will be *significantly* more prone to failure. So, no, you should not go for a CLC. If you are referring to either a Swiftech or EKWB AiO with intention of future expansion (which I assume you are not), that would be a different discussion.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Well, leaking isn't really the biggest concern with a CLC. The biggest concern should be the fact that the cooling is *not* perceptibly better than something like an H5, the CLC will be *significantly* louder at the same performance levels, it will cost you twice as much and will be *significantly* more prone to failure. So, no, you should not go for a CLC. If you are referring to either a Swiftech or EKWB AiO with intention of future expansion (which I assume you are not), that would be a different discussion.


Agreed, although if expand-ability is your goal then I would always advise custom. Looks way better (those Predator CPU+GPU loops with all that black tubing snaking around the case is not pretty IMO), performs better, and really the cost vs something like the Predator (by the time you add GPU) isn't that different. Yes it's more costly, but you're getting superior performance. Assuming you're OK with the maintenance aspect, custom would always be preferable IMO. CPU only AIOs are a waste of time for the most part though... pure aesthetic, nothing else.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Agreed, although if expand-ability is your goal then I would always advise custom. Looks way better (those Predator CPU+GPU loops with all that black tubing snaking around the case is not pretty IMO), performs better, and really the cost vs something like the Predator (by the time you add GPU) isn't that different. Yes it's more costly, but you're getting superior performance. Assuming you're OK with the maintenance aspect, custom would always be preferable IMO. CPU only AIOs are a waste of time for the most part though... pure aesthetic, nothing else.


Well....not to drag this OT....but, most of those awful looking Predator expansions are the result of users not bothering to cut and route the tubing correctly when they expand. They have liquid cooling for the sake of saying that they have liquid cooling. You can do a clean build with a Swiftech or Predator, but it has to be treated the same way one would treat a custom loop during assembly.

And totally agree with CPU only AiO being mostly a waste of time. You may see some gain on LGA2011 or AM3 CPUs, but not on LGA115X.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> Hello guys. . . I'm here to ask an important question since I'm getting the itch to build a new pc. My question is, will my R1 Universal fit on motherboard like the ASUS ROG Maximus IX Hero? Those those mobos have a big ass plastic that I think will not let them work together. I've attached a photo of both the mobo in question and the cooler I'm trying to slap on it.
> 
> Plastic in question is in yellow box:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My R1 Universal as it currently is:


Like others have said, you should have no problem.

The audio out housing is standard size so about 36mm tall. On an image this scale to top of cover being about 43mm. R1 has 50mm motherboard to bottom of fins. Bottom of fan cooler shrouds is about 45-46mm above surface of motherboard. The worst case is your 3rd cooler fan will not set as low as other two .. or all three will need to be set a little higher above motherboard to have uniform height above cooler.

Here is dimensional drawing of R1


Edit: If you want a quiet CPU only cooler liquid cooler the be quiet! Silent Loop are very good, but they are more expensive than a good air cooler to do what you need done.


----------



## Loosenut

anyone see they are offering free AM4 upgrades to existing products?

http://www.cryorig.com/news.php?id=67&page=1


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loosenut*
> 
> anyone see they are offering free AM4 upgrades to existing products?
> 
> http://www.cryorig.com/news.php?id=67&page=1


In opening post








That is where new info is often posted.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1461923/cryorig-fan-cooler-club-r1-ult-r1-uni-c1-h5-xf140-xt140/0_20
Quote:


> Added 25.01.2017
> 
> *CRYORIG Provides Free AM4 update kit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> In response to AMD's soon to be released Ryzen CPU and AM4 platform, PC thermal solution brand CRYORIG will be providing free AM4 upgrade kits soon after the official release of the AMD Ryzen CPU release. All users of existing AMD supported products will be able to apply for the free upgrade kits. Native AM4 mounting kits will also start to hit the markets after the official release of the CPU.
> 
> CRYORIG will provide all existing users and new owners of AMD supported products the new AM4 kit totally free of charge. Existing eligible products include: R1 Universal/Ultimate, C1, H5 Universal/Ultimate, H7, H7 Quad Lumi, M9a, C7, A40, A40 Ultimate and A80. Users will only need to provide the following information: proof of purchase of the CRYORIG product (or product registration number), and a proof of purchase of an AMD Ryzen or AM4 CPU or Motherboard. The necessary info just needs to be sent to CRYORIG support email-box "[email protected]" and the kit will be sent directly to the provided address. Local distributors and select channels will also have these kits available.
> 
> About CRYORIG
> 
> Officially founded in 2013, CRYORIG is a fresh new comer to the PC peripherals and Cooling market with a core team of seasoned veterans. The team's resumes include experiences with renowned brands such as Thermalright, Prolimatech and Phanteks. The members are overclockers and PC modding enthusiasts, with a passion to strive for nothing but the best. With the long experience and drive for innovation and improvement, CRYORIG is about applying RESEARCH and innovative IDEAS making the coolest GEAR possible.
Click to expand...


----------



## Loosenut

well damn it


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loosenut*
> 
> well damn it


I doesn't hurt to have it re-posted.















It just do it at beginning because it's easier for most to find that way.


----------



## Loosenut

ya I seen it last night on their site. I thought if I went ryzen, thats a cool gesture


----------



## WhiteWulfe

I probably should register my R1 Ultimate at some point.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I probably should register my R1 Ultimate at some point.


Yes, you should. You don't want an unregistered R1 to fall into a life of random CPU cooling like mine did.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> Yes, you should. You don't want an unregistered R1 to fall into a life of random CPU cooling like mine did.


Seems I saw a warranty disclaimer about cats owning coolers.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

You guys are awesome with the sillyness ^_^


----------



## Laucien

Hey guys, does anyone knows the size/dimensions for the box the R1 Universal and H5 Universal come in?. I'm doing a quick trip to the US and plan to buy those 2 coolers but want to make sure I can fit everything on my bag haha.

Also. The H5 is for a gaming/server PC that's running a 6700k with a ****ty cooler so that's a definite upgrade but the R1 is for my main rig running another 6700k with a rather old Corsair H100i. I know it's not going to be an upgrade but the H100i has started to make some pretty scary noises and I'm going to replace it before it dies... *am I likely to see worse, same or slightly better temps with the R1?* Case is a 750D and is going to have 4 fans as intake (2xFront, 2xBottom) and 2 for exhaust (rear and top-rear).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laucien*
> 
> Hey guys, does anyone knows the size/dimensions for the box the R1 Universal and H5 Universal come in?. I'm doing a quick trip to the US and plan to buy those 2 coolers but want to make sure I can fit everything on my bag haha.
> 
> Also. The H5 is for a gaming/server PC that's running a 6700k with a ****ty cooler so that's a definite upgrade but the R1 is for my main rig running another 6700k with a rather old Corsair H100i. I know it's not going to be an upgrade but the H100i has started to make some pretty scary noises and I'm going to replace it before it dies... *am I likely to see worse, same or slightly better temps with the R1?* Case is a 750D and is going to have 4 fans as intake (2xFront, 2xBottom) and 2 for exhaust (rear and top-rear).


R1 Universal box is 22x22x19.5cm. Will need to find H5 box to measure it.

R1 is easily as good as H100 at same noise level (R1 fans full speed & H100 at same 41db), but if you run H100 at full speed (51db) it will be about 4c better when new. The older the H100 gets the more wear there is on the pump the higher it's temps will get. R1 never changes. Obviously both have to have clean fins and fans c

I would remove all unused PCIe back slot covers to improve back vent exhaust airflow area. This should help the heated air from GPU to blow back and out of case better.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

@doyll. . . how often do you recommend taking off the r1 and rinse it in soap water? Is that a good or bad idea or do I stick to compressed air?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> @doyll. . . how often do you recommend taking off the r1 and rinse it in soap water? Is that a good or bad idea or do I stick to compressed air?


All depends on what kind of dirt/dust you have. In my house I only do it when reusing a cooler in a new system. But we have no smoke and not much dust. Our cases all have filtered intakes that get cleaned at least every other week. I might do a compressor blow-out of system every year or two.

Washing is needed in households where things get a film buildup on them, like from people smoking, or cooking on gas stove. I have one system that has been running for about 5 years with only one ... maybe two .. compressed air blows and regular filter cleaning. When I smoked I was washing coolers every year or two.









When using a compressor make sure the tank is drained so there is no water or oil in the air (compressing air causes water to collect in tank).

Just be sure after a good washing that you blow cooler out and dry it completely and relatively quickly (2-3hours). A warm oven (warmed up turned off) can even be used .. some cloths dryers have a rack that can be put in to lay delicate things on to dry them and work nicely for coolers. I have seem times when people changed to a new cooler and washed the old one but did not make sure it was completely dry before putting it away .. and the moisture made cooler look like it was salvaged from somewhere.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Thanks for the reply and I'll probably only stick with compressed air and ditch the idea of rinsing the cooler in water. . . I plan to keep my r1 until the ends of time.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> Thanks for the reply and I'll probably only stick with compressed air and ditch the idea of rinsing the cooler in water. . . I plan to keep my r1 until the ends of time.


I have never damaged a cooler washing it, and I have probably washed at least 100 coolers. I've also washed motherboards, motors, and many other things. Washing is not a problem as long as you rinse well and promptly dry them well. I would not advice washing CPUs because if any water was to get inside the IHS cover it will not dry out. Same with GPU chips, I usually do a final rinse with distilled water so there are not even any water spots when dry, but I have a dehumidifier in the basement so always have plenty of distilled water.









Unless when you rub on top of the cooler, or on the plastic shroud or back side of fan blade and it leaves a mark or you can feel a sticky/oily film on your finger, you don't need to wash it.


----------



## Laucien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> R1 Universal box is 22x22x19.5cm. Will need to find H5 box to measure it.
> 
> R1 is easily as good as H100 at same noise level (R1 fans full speed & H100 at same 41db), but if you run H100 at full speed (51db) it will be about 4c better when new. The older the H100 gets the more wear there is on the pump the higher it's temps will get. R1 never changes. Obviously both have to have clean fins and fans c
> 
> I would remove all unused PCIe back slot covers to improve back vent exhaust airflow area. This should help the heated air from GPU to blow back and out of case better.


Awesome thanks!.

Yeah, this H100i is around two-and-a-half years old and while it does a pretty good job on idle and light use temps are higher when gaming/heavy loads than they used to be. Plus it's really loud and lately it started making some weird noises every now and then... a system reboot usually fixes that but it's not something I wanna risk failing without a backup ready. Plus the Corsair 750D is a pretty huge case and I think it will look better with that huge tower inside







.

I think I found the dimensions for the H5 -> 20x20x14.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have never damaged a cooler washing it, and I have probably washed at least 100 coolers. I've also washed motherboards, motors, and many other things. Washing is not a problem as long as you rinse well and promptly dry them well. I would not advice washing CPUs because if any water was to get inside the IHS cover it will not dry out. Same with GPU chips, I usually do a final rinse with distilled water so there are not even any water spots when dry, but I have a dehumidifier in the basement so always have plenty of distilled water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless when you rub on top of the cooler, or on the plastic shroud or back side of fan blade and it leaves a mark or you can feel a sticky/oily film on your finger, you don't need to wash it.


You're a brave soul. . . Just the thought of putting my mobo in water makes me uncomfortable lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laucien*
> 
> Awesome thanks!.
> 
> Yeah, this H100i is around two-and-a-half years old and while it does a pretty good job on idle and light use temps are higher when gaming/heavy loads than they used to be. Plus it's really loud and lately it started making some weird noises every now and then... a system reboot usually fixes that but it's not something I wanna risk failing without a backup ready. Plus the Corsair 750D is a pretty huge case and I think it will look better with that huge tower inside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I think I found the dimensions for the H5 -> 20x20x14.


You should of gone with the R1 since the beginning and would of saved yourself some money.... Cost of the h100i to be exact.


----------



## amlett

nevermind, I'll go for the H5 Ultimate.


----------



## Laucien

Does anyone know if the H5 Universal blocks any expansion slots on a Maximus VIII Gene?.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> You should of gone with the R1 since the beginning and would of saved yourself some money.... Cost of the h100i to be exact.


TBH I don't regret buying the H100i. It's an awesome cooler (IMO) that looks pretty good and clean but now I wanna try something different haha.


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laucien*
> 
> Does anyone know if the H5 Universal blocks any expansion slots on a Maximus VIII Gene?.


It does not block the ram as long as you use the fan that comes with it. It was designed not to block the ram slots


----------



## Laucien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> It does not block the ram as long as you use the fan that comes with it. It was designed not to block the ram slots


Yup, I know but I meant the expansion slots, the PCIe ones. I read a few reviews saying that in some mobos it might block the first one and since this is an mATX board the first one is the PCIe x16 for the graphics card







.


----------



## drBlahMan

You're good







It will not block the pci-e slots on the Gene VIII. My aplogies...*You'll be cutting real close*. You should download their heatsink template so you can check for yourself... http://www.cryorig.com/h5-universal_us.php (_scroll to the bottom of the page after clicking on the link_).

I was thinking about the *H7* dimensions


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laucien*
> 
> Yup, I know but I meant the expansion slots, the PCIe ones. I read a few reviews saying that in some mobos it might block the first one and since this is an mATX board the first one is the PCIe x16 for the graphics card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


google is your friend... put this in the search, *"Maximus VIII Gene" "Cryorig H5"* then go to images and you can quickly spot the board and the cooler.

And, the answer is right here on OCN.

http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/official-fractal-design-case-club/14640_30#post_25452743

And, it looks like the first slot is blocked. edit: see @doyll's post below.


----------



## drBlahMan

Well, you can always buy the H7. It's performance is almost the same (_H5 has slight edge_).

*H7*




*H5*


----------



## Laucien

Yup, H7 was my fallback option. I really wanted the H5 but the first PCIe port is more important xD.

Thanks to the both of you!.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laucien*
> 
> Does anyone know if the H5 Universal blocks any expansion slots on a Maximus VIII Gene?.
> TBH I don't regret buying the H100i. It's an awesome cooler (IMO) that looks pretty good and clean but now I wanna try something different haha.


Maximus VIII Gene has 73-74mm center CPU to near side of PCIe socket and 54mm to RAM socket. It is 75mm center CPU to slot in PCIe socket.
H5 is 72.3mm center cooler base to outside of fan clip and plastic on top and bottom of cooler. The fin pack is 70mm center CPU to outside.

Should be no problem .. unless your GPU has a big wide backplate.

The problem with looking a pics of cooler mounted on motherboard is if camera is not sighting the PCIe edge of cooler it makes cooler look like it's over the PCie socket.

Best way to be sure is use the H5 comparability tester origami pattern like drBlahMan


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Maximus VIII Gene has 73-74mm center CPU to near side of PCIe socket and 54mm to RAM socket. It is 75mm center CPU to slot in PCIe socket.
> H5 is 72.3mm center cooler base to outside of fan clip and plastic on top and bottom of cooler. The fin pack is 70mm center CPU to outside.
> 
> Should be no problem .. unless your GPU has a big wide backplate.
> 
> The problem with looking a pics of cooler mounted on motherboard is if camera is not sighting the PCIe edge of cooler it makes cooler look like it's over the PCie socket.
> 
> Best way to be sure is use the H5 comparability tester origami pattern like drBlahMan


I am not one willing to debate your measurements, but it sure looks like it will hang over in the pic.

edit: That didn't come across the way I intended. What I mean is I trust doyll's measurements.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> I am not one willing to debate your measurements, but it sure looks like it will hang over in the pic.
> 
> edit: That didn't come across the way I intended. What I mean is I trust doyll's measurements.


I do most all my measurements from OEM website images by scaling the motherboard mounting holes, PCIe socket and RAM slot length, and cooler mounting hole spacing. I've been doing this for years and have so far never said a cooler would fit and had anyone come back saying it would not. That's to say my figures can't be wrong but just that so far they have not been. Best way to be sure is use the Cryorig origami model to verify it will or will not fit.


----------



## Luckael

does the noctua nf a15 will be able to fit in cryorig r1?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luckael*
> 
> does the noctua nf a15 will be able to fit in cryorig r1?


It will, but only fit if the brown vibration corner tabs are on top and bottom of fan.
But why on earth would you want to use A15 fans? Why not something like the TY-147A that is black and white, instead of baby poo brown?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> But why on earth would you want to use A15 fans? Why not something like the TY-147A that is black and white, instead of baby poo brown?


Maybe he already has them? Otherwise, no clue.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Maybe he already has them? Otherwise, no clue.


Maybe trying to hide it in a desert or very dry environment?


----------



## AyyMD

Steve is a great guy
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Maybe trying to hide it in a desert or very dry environment?


Like me. I hate deserts and sand. Sand is coarse and rough, and it gets everywhere.


----------



## Hionmaiden

Anyone know if Cryorig will ever be releasing any GPU water coolers similar to corsair and nzxt? I would really love to watercool my 980ti Hof with a nice matching AIO to go along with my a40+


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hionmaiden*
> 
> Anyone know if Cryorig will ever be releasing any GPU water coolers similar to corsair and nzxt? I would really love to watercool my 980ti Hof with a nice matching AIO to go along with my a40+


A bracket like the Corsair HG10 would never fit your HOF card. you could just get the NZXT G10, I don't the you'd have issues using your A40 with it.

the VRM cooling with the G10 is pretty terrible though.


----------



## Warrimonk

Hey guys so my CM Seidon 120V is starting to die... running over 80C after playing battlefield 1 for a while. Its quite an old AIO cooler so I'm thinking about getting a cryorig H5 universal or H7.

I can't find ANY of these coolers in Canada. What's the deal? Am I better off ordering something like a beQuiet Pure Rock / Hyper 212X?


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warrimonk*
> 
> Hey guys so my CM Seidon 120V is starting to die... running over 80C after playing battlefield 1 for a while. Its quite an old AIO cooler so I'm thinking about getting a cryorig H5 universal or H7.
> 
> I can't find ANY of these coolers in Canada. What's the deal? Am I better off ordering something like a beQuiet Pure Rock / Hyper 212X?


Yep, they're not in Canada. Honestly, the Pure Rock is quieter and within the margin of error of the H7 anyway, so I'd get that over it, even in America.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warrimonk*
> 
> Hey guys so my CM Seidon 120V is starting to die... running over 80C after playing battlefield 1 for a while. Its quite an old AIO cooler so I'm thinking about getting a cryorig H5 universal or H7.
> 
> I can't find ANY of these coolers in Canada. What's the deal? Am I better off ordering something like a beQuiet Pure Rock / Hyper 212X?


Contact Cryorig support and they'll usually direct sell to countries that don't have a distributor.







I've had my R1 Ultimate for two years now, and I'm beyond happy with it ^_^

(I got mine by buying through a us proxy and they shipped it up to me - probably cheaper to go direct sale, which is the route I'll be going in the near future for my upcoming 2P rig)


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warrimonk*
> 
> Hey guys so my CM Seidon 120V is starting to die... running over 80C after playing battlefield 1 for a while. Its quite an old AIO cooler so I'm thinking about getting a cryorig H5 universal or H7.
> 
> I can't find ANY of these coolers in Canada. What's the deal? Am I better off ordering something like a beQuiet Pure Rock / Hyper 212X?


Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BK is available in canada. Performance was right up there with the R1 and the Noctua D15

I'm not a fan of NCIX because they have twice cancelled orders I placed, but that cooler is $99 CAD on NCIX.

Not sure if this is out of your budget or not.


----------



## Warrimonk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BK is available in canada. Performance was right up there with the R1 and the Noctua D15
> 
> I'm not a fan of NCIX because they have twice cancelled orders I placed, but that cooler is $99 CAD on NCIX.
> 
> Not sure if this is out of your budget or not.


Thanks for the suggestion! I contacted Cryorig and they said that they will be releasing in Canada soon (they already have products in the Amazon Canada warehouse, but are waiting on paperwork)

Unfortunately, that cooler is too tall for my case. I have a Corsair Obsidian 350D case, and the maximum cooler height allowance is 160mm.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warrimonk*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion! I contacted Cryorig and they said that they will be releasing in Canada soon (they already have products in the Amazon Canada warehouse, but are waiting on paperwork)
> 
> Unfortunately, that cooler is too tall for my case. I have a Corsair Obsidian 350D case, and the maximum cooler height allowance is 160mm.


Definitely glad to hear we'll FINALLY be seeing Canadian stocking for Cryorig. I've been looking forward to such happening, as rumours of Newegg carrying it on their Canadian site surfaced two years ago but nothing happened.

Amazon is nice too because there's that UPS option for shipping next day on most things (versus their use of Intel come which is... Well, nowhere near as reliable in my city)


----------



## Nickyvida

Hi.

Is there any idea when we can place orders for the AM4 mounting kits?

Just preordered the Ryzen 1800x and i sent a pic of the proof of preorder and my current cooler.

Thanks!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Hi.
> 
> Is there any idea when we can place orders for the AM4 mounting kits?
> 
> Just preordered the Ryzen 1800x and i sent a pic of the proof of preorder and my current cooler.
> 
> Thanks!


From Cryorig website:
Quote:


> If you're interested in an upgrade kit, it'll be available by showing proof of purchase for the supporting Cryorig product along with proof of purchase for an AMD Ryzen CPU or a supporting motherboard. Send those details to [email protected] together with your address and, shortly after the AMD Ryzen launch, the kit will be on its way to you.


http://www.cryorig.com/support.php
Lower right corner is 'Leave a message' in blue box. Click and leave a message saying you have Ryzen pre-ordered and need to get the mount. Don't forget to give them your email address.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> From Cryorig website:
> http://www.cryorig.com/support.php
> Lower right corner is 'Leave a message' in blue box. Click and leave a message saying you have Ryzen pre-ordered and need to get the mount. Don't forget to give them your email address.


Yep i sent the email to the support yesterday but have yet to recieve a reply.

Are preorder reciepts valid or only order receipts upon receipt of the processer?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Yep i sent the email to the support yesterday but have yet to recieve a reply.
> 
> Are preorder reciepts valid or only order receipts upon receipt of the processer?


I'm guessing, but I think a pre-order receipt will be okay. I'm not surprised you have not received a reply because it is the weekend and nobody is at work.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm guessing, but I think a pre-order receipt will be okay. I'm not surprised you have not received a reply because it is the weekend and nobody is at work.


pssh my bad.. i keep thinking it's march 2nd already.


----------



## Laucien

I bought 2 Cryorig CPU coolers (R1 Universal and H7) for my 2 builds and while I was doing some research on how to install them I noticed that in the official Cryorig videos on youtube they spread the thermal paste over the CPU instead of using something like the 'pea-size' method and mounting the heatsink to spread it out. Looking into their website also says that their thermal paste kits all come with a little spreader tool.

Now, these won't be the first aftermarket coolers I install but all that along with reading somewhere that their thermal paste is more viscous/think than standard got me wondering. Should I take special care or steps when applying it or a pea-sized drop in the middle of the die should be enough as usual?.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laucien*
> 
> I bought 2 Cryorig CPU coolers (R1 Universal and H7) for my 2 builds and while I was doing some research on how to install them I noticed that in the official Cryorig videos on youtube they spread the thermal paste over the CPU instead of using something like the 'pea-size' method and mounting the heatsink to spread it out. Looking into their website also says that their thermal paste kits all come with a little spreader tool.
> 
> Now, these won't be the first aftermarket coolers I install but all that along with reading somewhere that their thermal paste is more viscous/think than standard got me wondering. Should I take special care or steps when applying it or a pea-sized drop in the middle of the die should be enough as usual?.


Last time I used the Cryorig TIM I warmed it in hot water so it would flow / spread out easier with just a rice size dob in middle of CPU.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> pssh my bad.. i keep thinking it's march 2nd already.


Did you get a reply from Cryorig?


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Did you get a reply from Cryorig?


Nope i havent so far. I guess preorder reciepts are not accepted?


----------



## Nickyvida

Has anyone else sent out an email to Cryorig regarding ths upgrade to mounting kits ?

Thanks!


----------



## nesham

I sendt today, but they didn`t answered yet.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Has anyone else sent out an email to Cryorig regarding ths upgrade to mounting kits ?
> 
> Thanks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nesham*
> 
> I sendt today, but they didn`t answered yet.


I'm surpriced Nickyvida hasn't had a reply .. unless they sent out the new mount instead of emailing a reply. That or maybe they are doing some last minute testing to be sure it does what it's supposed to.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm surpriced Nickyvida hasn't had a reply .. unless they sent out the new mount instead of emailing a reply. That or maybe they are doing some last minute testing to be sure it does what it's supposed to.


Sorry for the late reply. I had a reply from them this morning. Everything has been settled.









Props to thier customer service.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Sorry for the late reply. I had a reply from them this morning. Everything has been settled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Props to thier customer service.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pn5VpqjZj

https://imageshack.com/i/plBB6Xkbj

https://imageshack.com/i/pnQjl93sj

https://imageshack.com/i/pnLlFEw8j

Going to be trying out the C1 shortly.


----------



## Loosenut

finally get a bracket I take it? I heard from their support this am and said they making a list but no eta on shipment


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loosenut*
> 
> finally get a bracket I take it? I heard from their support this am and said they making a list but no eta on shipment


Do you have your Ryzen yet? If you do you have a pre-release one.








I'm betting Cryorig will get your bracket to you by the time you have a production run Ryzen.


----------



## Loosenut

I do have a ryzen, got it microcenter, so no idea if it is pre-release or production. I bought it a few days after launch, so maybe a pre-release. really thinking of what I can use in the time being. for now, my R1 will continue to reside on my 8350


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loosenut*
> 
> I do have a ryzen, got it microcenter, so no idea if it is pre-release or production. I bought it a few days after launch, so maybe a pre-release. really thinking of what I can use in the time being. for now, my R1 will continue to reside on my 8350


Is Cryorig aware you physically have your Ryzen? If not, I suggest you tell them and say you want to get it operational ASAP. Maybe they can come up with something.


----------



## Loosenut

yea, I had told them I had it in hand in the original request to them. I asked for a rough estimation, when they pointed out I didnt include my phone number, that was 6:45am

apparently, microcenter was sold out of the am3+ stock cooler brackets when I was there









they tried to sell me a 212 cooler, not a fan of those but I might just to get by


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loosenut*
> 
> yea, I had told them I had it in hand in the original request to them. I asked for a rough estimation, when they pointed out I didnt include my phone number, that was 6:45am
> 
> apparently, microcenter was sold out of the am3+ stock cooler brackets when I was there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they tried to sell me a 212 cooler, not a fan of those but I might just to get by


7AM in USA is nighttime in Taiwan.


----------



## Loosenut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 7AM in USA is nighttime in Taiwan.


good to know, just being patient here but thanks


----------



## RashKah

Hey!
Having just Bought a Cryorig R1 Ultimate to match my (stock, for now)7700k i was wondering if any of you sport the same combination!
in an Ambient temperature in the low 20es (i.e. 20-23°C) my 7700k is idling at about 29-35°C but as the fan is only at a minimal 365 rpm that is not too bad, right?
Under load although (p95 26.6 blend) it goes up tho high sixties mid seventies (i.e. 68-76°C).
Is this normal considering the bad TIM-job by intel or did i get a really bad chip?
Thanks in advance!
EDIT: forgot to add that the fancurve sets the speed at right around 650-750 rpm at this temps.
additionaly: im using HWmonitor for the temps but the ASUS Ai suite III (coupled to the z270f strix) tells me cpu temps in the low to mid sixties indstead (63-65°C)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RashKah*
> 
> Hey!
> Having just Bought a Cryorig R1 Ultimate to match my (stock, for now)7700k i was wondering if any of you sport the same combination!
> in an Ambient temperature in the low 20es (i.e. 20-23°C) my 7700k is idling at about 29-35°C but as the fan is only at a minimal 365 rpm that is not too bad, right?
> Under load although (p95 26.6 blend) it goes up tho high sixties mid seventies (i.e. 68-76°C).
> Is this normal considering the bad TIM-job by intel or did i get a really bad chip?
> Thanks in advance!
> EDIT: forgot to add that the fancurve sets the speed at right around 650-750 rpm at this temps.
> additionaly: im using HWmonitor for the temps but the ASUS Ai suite III (coupled to the z270f strix) tells me cpu temps in the low to mid sixties indstead (63-65°C)


Do you have any way of checking / monitoring your cooler intake air temp? Reason I ask is because it is not at all uncommon for the cooler intake to be 10-20c warmer than room.







If you are interested in finding out more, go to 'Ways to Better Cooling' linked in my sig. 1st post is index, click on topics to see them 5th is a good place to start.

What is your system? Case and case fan layout make a big difference in cooler intake air temps.


----------



## RashKah

Thanks for the reply!
Will definitely check out your guide!
Will also look for a way to check intake air temp!
Case is a Phanteks EVOLV atx with stock fan config, 2 front 140mm intake and one back 140mm, all three connected to the phanteks pwm hub, directly facing the R1!
Cheers

EDIT:
whole System
CPU 7700k
MoBo Asus z270f strix
2x8gb corsair vengeance running at 3.2ghx via xmp
PSU Corsair 750RMx 750w
MSI GTX970 "4"Gb "manually" oc'ed
and the above mentioned phanteks case coupled with the cryorig R1
2ssds and an hdd.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RashKah*
> 
> Thanks for the reply!
> Will definitely check out your guide!
> Will also look for a way to check intake air temp!
> Case is a Phanteks EVOLV atx with stock fan config, 2 front 140mm intake and one back 140mm, all three connected to the phanteks pwm hub, directly facing the R1!
> Cheers
> 
> EDIT:
> whole System
> CPU 7700k
> MoBo Asus z270f strix
> 2x8gb corsair vengeance running at 3.2ghx via xmp
> PSU Corsair 750RMx 750w
> MSI GTX970 "4"Gb "manually" oc'ed
> and the above mentioned phanteks case coupled with the cryorig R1
> 2ssds and an hdd.


R1 will do a great job in Evolv ATX.








1st and 5th posts shows easy low-cost setup to monitor airflow temps different places in your case.


----------



## Nickyvida

Has amyone who has applied for an AM4 update kit via Cryorig Support recieved thier mounts?

Thank you


----------



## khemist

Got the C1 installed and just played 1 hour of BF1, installed a 140mm Noctua fan pulling air up and out the top instead of pushing air down.



https://imageshack.com/i/pnOPvNONj

https://imageshack.com/i/pocPj9AYj

https://imageshack.com/i/poqeeuQuj

https://imageshack.com/i/pmfEwBylj

[email protected] 1.25v.

I'm pretty happy with it although it may struggle at my normal 5.0 1.35v oc, i'll have to do more testing.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Got the C1 installed and just played 1 hour of BF1, installed a 140mm Noctua fan pulling air up and out the top instead of pushing air down.
> 
> [email protected] 1.25v.
> 
> I'm pretty happy with it although it may struggle at my normal 5.0 1.35v oc, i'll have to do more testing.


Looking good, how did you go about mounting that fan? The C1 uses fan holes spaced for 120mm fans, so I guess it wasn't as simple as screwing it in place?

I'd try flipping the fan too, seen it give good results in other CL Bullet cases, might work for you too.


----------



## khemist

Blu tac







, i've just had the 25mm thick 140mm Cryorig fan with the rounded frame that should fit delivered, just not installed it yet.

I'd rather have the air exhausted out the top, the only other exhaust would be the GPU and any air that finds it's way out the back.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Blu tac
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , i've just had the 25mm thick 140mm Cryorig fan with the rounded frame that should fit delivered, just not installed it yet.
> 
> I'd rather have the air exhausted out the top, the only other exhaust would be the GPU and any air that finds it's way out the back.


Oh, i meant flipping the fan on the cooler, this way it directs warmer air towards your top exhaust instead of downwards on the motherboard.


----------



## khemist

That's the way i have it, i done it that way with the Bequiet TF cooler also, it worked well although it's a much bigger cooler.


----------



## RashKah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Got the C1 installed and just played 1 hour of BF1, installed a 140mm Noctua fan pulling air up and out the top instead of pushing air down.
> 
> [email protected] 1.25v.
> 
> I'm pretty happy with it although it may struggle at my normal 5.0 1.35v oc, i'll have to do more testing.


did you delid that 7700k?


----------



## khemist

Yeah i forgot to say.


----------



## ihateolives

Hey guys. Cryorig C7 owner thinking about replacing the stock fan on the C7 with a Noctua A9x14 fan, as we've seen earlier in this thread (eg. @doyll post #2179)

How did you guys manage to unmount then stock fan of the Cryorig C7? Did you just destroy it or what is it I'm missing? I can't for the love of my life figure out how to unmount it without breaking it, and I feel super dumb asking, but I'm almost 100% positive it isn't supposed to be this stupidly hard.


----------



## YouDidntAsk

Just fitted a Cryorig R1 Universal.
My temps are about the same as the H110GT that it replaced, but I prefer the look of the Cryorig and it is much more quiet.
i7 5930K Haswell-E Temps @28C @ idle on the hottest core and @65C on AIDA64 CPU & GPU stress test after 15 minutes.
IT worked with Corsair Dominator too, just had to use the right hand RAM slots on my X99 board.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouDidntAsk*
> 
> Just fitted a Cryorig R1 Universal.
> My temps are about the same as the H110GT that it replaced, but I prefer the look of the Cryorig and it is much more quiet.
> i7 5930K Haswell-E Temps @28C @ idle on the hottest core and @65C on AIDA64 CPU & GPU stress test after 15 minutes.
> IT worked with Corsair Dominator too, just had to use the right hand RAM slots on my X99 board.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Glad to hear another testimonial showing how a top tier air cooler cools as well or better at same or lower noise levels.


----------



## YouDidntAsk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Glad to hear another testimonial showing how a top tier air cooler cools as well or better at same or lower noise levels.


Yes I was quite surprised at the temps. The H110GT was effective until it went wrong (after 18 months the temps rocketed, replaced the TIM, no luck), but the pump was just a little too loud and the noise was more annoying than fan noise. Also I never liked Corsair Link.

Happy with the R1 - feels like less to go wrong, no software to worry about, and hoping for longer use before it needs replacing.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouDidntAsk*
> 
> Yes I was quite surprised at the temps.


Having done numerous tests involving CLCs and top tier air coolers, no surprise to me. CLCs have a placebo effect on their users.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Having done numerous tests involving CLCs and top tier air coolers, no surprise to me. CLCs have a placebo effect on their users.


Isn't it a saileibo effect?









Kidding aside. Isn't it amazing how all CLC users replacing with top tier air seem to rave about how much quieter their new air cooled systems are and often are cooling better too.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouDidntAsk*
> 
> Yes I was quite surprised at the temps. The H110GT was effective until it went wrong (after 18 months the temps rocketed, replaced the TIM, no luck), but the pump was just a little too loud and the noise was more annoying than fan noise. Also I never liked Corsair Link.
> 
> Happy with the R1 - feels like less to go wrong, no software to worry about, and hoping for longer use before it needs replacing.


That is the reason I went with the R1 Universal from the start. 2 years and still no problems.


----------



## YouDidntAsk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> That is the reason I went with the R1 Universal from the start. 2 years and still no problems.


Nice set up - i am tempted to add a 3rd fan as you have... how have you connected it?


----------



## Kenpachi7144

The first two are connected with a Y-Splitter to the CPU1 fan header and the 3 one is connected to the CPU 2 fan header.


----------



## YouDidntAsk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> The first two are connected with a Y-Splitter to the CPU1 fan header and the 3 one is connected to the CPU 2 fan header.


Thanks - how have you physically connected the fan to the cooler.. Is there a clip?

ETA: Ah, I see how you have done it from the picture and I went back and checked the box and found the spare clips, one for low profile and one for full width fan.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Isn't it a saileibo effect?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kidding aside. Isn't it amazing how all CLC users replacing with top tier air seem to rave about how much quieter their new air cooled systems are and often are cooling better too.


Hi doyll, pardon me. Just curious if you have any latest news regarding the AM4 mounting brackets? Thanks!

Have not have any update after the acknowledgement.


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Hi doyll, pardon me. Just curious if you have any latest news regarding the AM4 mounting brackets? Thanks!
> 
> Have not have any update after the acknowledgement.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.cryorig.com/news.php?id=67



They pretty much said that the upgrade kit is for free and there is a link in there to get yours

EDIT:the link is in the OP already


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.cryorig.com/news.php?id=67
> 
> 
> 
> They pretty much said that the upgrade kit is for free and there is a link in there to get yours
> 
> EDIT:the link is in the OP already


Hmm thanks. i sent a request for it on the 24th but have yet to recieve any news other than the acknowledgement for the order. So was wondering if there was any updates with regards to that.

Thanks!


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Hmm thanks. i sent a request for it on the 24th but have yet to recieve any news other than the acknowledgement for the order. So was wondering if there was any updates with regards to that.
> 
> Thanks!


Well,I'm guessing that a lot of people filled out that form so I guess that it'll take some time..Never hurts to send them an email for the status of your order...


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> Well,I'm guessing that a lot of people filled out that form so I guess that it'll take some time..Never hurts to send them an email for the status of your order...


Thanks.

I found this on that note.

Doesn't seem to look good

Quote:


> With the much-anticipated release of the AMD Ryzen, CRYORIG prepares to launch a full line of AMD Ryzen dedicated coolers as well as simple upgrade kits for existing AMD compatible CRYORIG cooling products. Beginning from Type A to Type D, there will be a total of 4 different AM4 upgrade kits depending on the corresponding CRYORIG product. Natively supporting Ryzen dedicated version models will begin to release later in *Q2 2017* and will consist of the full CRYORIG cooling portfolio.
> 
> CRYORIG's four AM4 upgrade kits will be released beginning in late March and will be completely free of charge (including shipping) for existing users to apply for. Users will only need to provide a proof of purchase of the CRYORIG product (or product registration number), and a proof of purchase of an AMD Ryzen or AM4 CPU or Motherboard. Just fill out and supply all necessary info at www.cryorig.com/getam4.php, the kit will be sent directly to the provided address. Distributors and select channels will also have these kits available. The following chart indicates the CRYORIG product and it's corresponding AM4 upgrade kit.


https://www.hardwareslave.com/news/cryorig-readies-full-am4-line-up-and-free-upgrade-kit/


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> I found this on that note.Doesn't seem to look good


The way I understand it,it says that in Q2 2017 the AM4 kit will be included in their coolers as standard(meaning that it'll be included in the box),and,the new upgrade kits will begin to release in late March..Seeing that we already are past the 15th , I'd guess that you'll be hearing from them soon,unless I misunderstood


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Hmm thanks. i sent a request for it on the 24th but have yet to recieve any news other than the acknowledgement for the order. So was wondering if there was any updates with regards to that.
> 
> Thanks!


What mAs81 just said.








I haven't heard anything, but I haven't asked anything either. I'm haven't got a Rysen so not worried about it .. yet.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Took a look out of curiosity this morning..... Cryorig's Amazon.ca store is now open. Woot.


----------



## kckyle

anybody got any news on the am4 kit?

i contact them and they told me late march early april deadline. has anyone got anything contradicting that?


----------



## AyyMD




----------



## Mampus

Happy H7 user here!

After I changed my CMOS battery (CR2032), suddenly I can OC my 2500K to 4.3 GHz without messing around with voltage. Temp stay at 65 degree C. I know that's a modest OC, but I'm happy regardless









Good to know that Cryorig will provide the backplate for AM4 motherboard, so I don't have to change my cooler in the future when I decided to go with Ryzen. And I also hope Intel still use 115X socket for the mainstream user so I can keep my H7 for the next upgrade


----------



## AuraNova

I've been tempted to buy an H7 myself. It's just the right size without looking bulky. It also looks easy to maintain. (My house can get dusty at times.)

I've been reading some really nice reviews on the H7. I might change things up and buy one as opposed to the many others I was considering.


----------



## doyll

I've used all of the Cryorig coolers. Even the little C7 is good for what it's intended for, but H7 is very good for it's size. We should be seeing their new H7 Quad Lumi any time now. I'm kinda surprised it hasn't been released yet. Maybe AMD not giving cooler companies the AM4 mounting specs sooner is slowing things down.


----------



## kckyle

i have to wait another 2 weeks for the am4 bracket for the r1, so in the meantime i bought a cheapo hyper t2 cooler


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I've used all of the Cryorig coolers. Even the little C7 is good for what it's intended for, but H7 is very good for it's size. We should be seeing their new H7 Quad Lumi any time now. I'm kinda surprised it hasn't been released yet. Maybe AMD not giving cooler companies the AM4 mounting specs sooner is slowing things down.


That Quad Lumi is going to beat every cooler I can think of that's similar, even the ARCTIC i32.


----------



## AuraNova

Other than the LEDs and all, is there anything else that makes the Quad Lumi different?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AuraNova*
> 
> Other than the LEDs and all, is there anything else that makes the Quad Lumi different?


The H7 Quad will have 1 more heatpipe. 4x heatpipes instead of 3x heatpipes. I think 'quad' is for the 4x heatpipes it will have.


----------



## AuraNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The H7 Quad will have 1 more heatpipe. 4x heatpipes instead of 3x heatpipes. I think 'quad' is for the 4x heatpipes it will have.


I guess that WOULD make sense now, wouldn't it?


----------



## ihateolives

Do you guys know if the C7 will fit on the Asus Z270i mobo? I have seen posts on reddit saying that modding is required to use backplate, and others (like on hardforum in the Dan cases a4-sfx thread and on reddit) saying it's fine fitting


----------



## AuraNova

Well, I just said "the heck with it" and purchased an H7 just now.

After seeing the Quad Lumi, I would have wanted one, but I don't know when Cryorig was ever planning to release it.


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihateolives*
> 
> Do you guys know if the C7 will fit on the Asus Z270i mobo? I have seen posts on reddit saying that modding is required to use backplate, and others (like on hardforum in the Dan cases a4-sfx thread and on reddit) saying it's fine fitting


The backplate doesn't fit , but you can fit the cooler on with the included washers , tho I don't really know how it'll perform..

For reference , I don't own the z270i and I just found the same info online as you , but if you want to overclock I'd suggest finding something else..


----------



## ihateolives

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> The backplate doesn't fit , but you can fit the cooler on with the included washers , tho I don't really know how it'll perform..
> 
> For reference , I don't own the z270i and I just found the same info online as you , but if you want to overclock I'd suggest finding something else..


I'll be running the cpu on stock speeds or awfully close to if I'm lucky. Just getting it so I have options in case my thermals aren't acceptable, and needs some tinkering. Building in the Lian Li TU100 case.

I've found posts from people online who got around the issue by cutting up the backplate slightly where the chips on the backplate interfere with it. I'll try to remember posting here when I get my mobo and assemble my build.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AuraNova*
> 
> Well, I just said "the heck with it" and purchased an H7 just now.
> 
> After seeing the Quad Lumi, I would have wanted one, but I don't know when Cryorig was ever planning to release it.


There are many satisfied owners of the H7, and I think you're going to be happy with it it as well. It's a fine cooler, and it looks very nice too.

Best of luck with it.


----------



## AuraNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> There are many satisfied owners of the H7, and I think you're going to be happy with it it as well. It's a fine cooler, and it looks very nice too.
> 
> Best of luck with it.


Thanks!

I just got it in today. It looks better in person than I thought it would. It looks solidly built too. I can tell I'm gonna be happy with it.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AuraNova*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I just got it in today. It looks better in person than I thought it would. It looks solidly built too. I can tell I'm gonna be happy with it.


Awesome! Be sure to watch a few installation videos on Youtube just to get an idea of how to install it. It's pretty simple to install, but watching a few others do it before doing it yourself may help you avoid any problems. Be careful NOT to overtighten the screws.









Best of luck and let us know how it turns out!


----------



## AuraNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> Awesome! Be sure to watch a few installation videos on Youtube just to get an idea of how to install it. It's pretty simple to install, but watching a few others do it before doing it yourself may help you avoid any problems. Be careful NOT to overtighten the screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best of luck and let us know how it turns out!


LOL, anything is easier than the Cooler Master Hyper N520. (At least to me.) That was a pain to install.

I can tell by looking at the H7 the install is very straight forward. So it should be a clean and simple install.


----------



## Echoa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AuraNova*
> 
> LOL, anything is easier than the Cooler Master Hyper N520. (At least to me.) That was a pain to install.
> 
> I can tell by looking at the H7 the install is very straight forward. So it should be a clean and simple install.


Cooler Master seems to have no idea on how to make a simple mounting system. Cryorig is so easy I love it. I've installed one 212 from CM in my life and refuse to do it again because i hate it. XP


----------



## AuraNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Echoa*
> 
> Cooler Master seems to have no idea on how to make a simple mounting system. Cryorig is so easy I love it. I've installed one 212 from CM in my life and refuse to do it again because i hate it. XP


I can imagine that being a lot more cumbersome as well. It's a bigger cooler than the N520.

The only thing left to do is send away for the AM4 kit. However, I need the motherboard first.


----------



## AuraNova

So, I want to send away for the AM4 bracket, but I am not 100% sure about what criteria I need. I have the registration code for the H7. As far as the proof of purchase pictures go, do I need a copy of my receipts, or a picture of the board and/or CPU, or what? Has anyone sent away for one yet that can answer?


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AuraNova*
> 
> So, I want to send away for the AM4 bracket, but I am not 100% sure about what criteria I need. I have the registration code for the H7. As far as the proof of purchase pictures go, do I need a copy of my receipts, or a picture of the board and/or CPU, or what? Has anyone sent away for one yet that can answer?


Just a proof of purchase reciept is enough. i sent my preorder reciept on february but there hasn't been any update since then.


----------



## AuraNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Just a proof of purchase reciept is enough. i sent my preorder reciept on february but there hasn't been any update since then.


Would an upload of a screencap from Newegg suffice for proof of purchase? Or does it have to be a picture of the physical paper? I'm doing this from their website.


----------



## Dorito Bandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AuraNova*
> 
> Would an upload of a screencap from Newegg suffice for proof of purchase? Or does it have to be a picture of the physical paper? I'm doing this from their website.


A screencap of your Newegg invoice will be fine. You will also need the registration code that came with your cooler. When I bought my cooler, the fan had a badly crimped wire. I emailed them about the issue for a replacement fan and they emailed me back asking for a copy of my Newegg invoice and registration code. They also wanted my phone number, wasn't thrilled about that, but I gave it to them anyway. I did this all through email, not their website, but it's all probably the same. I must say, they got a replacement fan out to me in reasonable amount of time. I was thinking it would come from a location here in the US, but it was actually shipped from Taiwan!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AuraNova*
> 
> Would an upload of a screencap from Newegg suffice for proof of purchase? Or does it have to be a picture of the physical paper? I'm doing this from their website.


Here is link to AM4 mount request. Cryorig customer support is very good and they just want to be sure you own a cryorig cooler and are really going to mount it on an AM4. Screen shot, phone image, etc just gives them proof you really need the AM4 mount.








http://www.cryorig.com/getam4.php


----------



## AuraNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Here is link to AM4 mount request. Cryorig customer support is very good and they just want to be sure you own a cryorig cooler and are really going to mount it on an AM4. Screen shot, phone image, etc just gives them proof you really need the AM4 mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.cryorig.com/getam4.php


Yeah, I had that bookmarked a week ago. In fact, the day I bought the cooler. Thanks though.









I sent the request last night, using a Newegg receipt for the motherboard. Hopefully, that will be enough.


----------



## Loosenut

i ended up buying another cooler since the wait is so long


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AuraNova*
> 
> Would an upload of a screencap from Newegg suffice for proof of purchase? Or does it have to be a picture of the physical paper? I'm doing this from their website.


Yes it should work, sorry for the late reply. I sent in a photo of my paper preorder reciept, if that helps and it was approved. They will ask for details like address and phone number once it is approved to send you the bracket. But so far there isn't any update even though i sent mine way back in feb.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loosenut*
> 
> i ended up buying another cooler since the wait is so long


Same. i bought a stand in cooler as my rig had already come in. But i will switch it back once the brackets arrive. Still no update despite sending an email yesterday.


----------



## Loosenut

last thing I heard from Cryorig support was on March 7th saying the brackets would be shipped out late March.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loosenut*
> 
> last thing I heard from Cryorig support was on March 7th saying the brackets would be shipped out late March.


Ah i see. Thanks for the confirmation. Hope its shipped out or there'll be updates as its the last day of march already.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorito Bandit*
> 
> They also wanted my phone number, wasn't thrilled about that, but I gave it to them anyway.


They asked for such because it's a shipping thing. If your local carriers need to contact you for any reasons (damaged label so address isn't showing properly, or if you're in a weird area they haven't been to and need directions, etc) it provides a much better option than them simply saying "package is undeliverable, returned to sender"

The other main reason they (companies in general) tend to say is "customs requires it"


----------



## kckyle

its the last day of march and still no am4 bracket









on the otherhand ehume gave me his r1 ultimate yesterday


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> its the last day of march and still no am4 bracket
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on the otherhand ehume gave me his r1 ultimate yesterday


Nice. Yeah. Still no response to my email about an update too either.


----------



## Nickyvida

Has anyone who has ordered an AM4 bracket recieve any update as to thier shipping information/ confirmation or recieved thier brackets?

Thanks!


----------



## kckyle

i email them they said mid april since they still designing/making the kit, i dont know what so difficult about it you literally just have to move the 4 mounting holes a bit closer,

but i concede, i got a noctua d9l and noctua is gonna ship me a am4 bracket this week.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> i email them they said mid april since they still designing/making the kit, i dont know what so difficult about it you literally just have to move the 4 mounting holes a bit closer,
> 
> but i concede, i got a noctua d9l and noctua is gonna ship me a am4 bracket this week.


Thanks for the info.









A little. disappointed.. late march to mid april, no reply to an email for an update as well.

Guess im stuck with my stand in cooler until then.


----------



## kckyle

Dear Kyle,
Currently we're still working on the AM4 upgrade kit but should be able to ship it out in the middle of the next month. Please allow us some time to produce the mounting parts.
Your patient is appreciated.
All the best,
--
Email: [email protected]
CRYORIG | research idea gear

3/29/2017 2:20 AM


----------



## Pascalwb

That's just ridiculous. From end of March it's end mid of April. They knew abut it since February. If I knew they will be this slow I would buy some other fan. I just don't get it, how Noctua can have them from day 1 and cryorig not even month after.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pascalwb*
> 
> That's just ridiculous. From end of March it's end mid of April. They knew abut it since February. If I knew they will be this slow I would buy some other fan. I just don't get it, how Noctua can have them from day 1 and cryorig not even month after.


Actually this is the first mount change in many years. Maybe there is a good reason for the delay, like having to tool up a new run and the factory has a backlog of orders.

Point is we don't know what the problems are. I know the first test batch of AM4 were indeed out months ago, but my understanding is AMD did not release a definitive mount spacing until very late, and this makes it much harder for cooler companies to have mount ready. Cryorig is not the only one having trouble getting upgraded AM4 mounts to users. About the only on on top of it is Noctua .. company with probably the biggest air cooler sales in the world.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Actually this is the first mount change in many years. Maybe there is a good reason for the delay, like having to tool up a new run and the factory has a backlog of orders.
> 
> Point is we don't know what the problems are. I know the first test batch of AM4 were indeed out months ago, but my understanding is AMD did not release a definitive mount spacing until very late, and this makes it much harder for cooler companies to have mount ready. Cryorig is not the only one having trouble getting upgraded AM4 mounts to users. About the only on on top of it is Noctua .. company with probably the biggest air cooler sales in the world.


Wait....you mean there are real world business and mfg issues that may affect the timing of a new product? Someone at Cryorig doesn't just snap their fingers and have the mounts appear in their shipping centers throughout the world the same day?


----------



## mAs81

Can't really blame all those people with ryzen builds tho..
There's always been some form of delay from Launch day one..If it wasn't the m/b availability,there would be the ram , and now the AM4 bracket waiting...I kinda feel for them...
Ryzen is a new platform that was released prematurely imo , but I believe that it wont be long for the top air cooler manufacturers to come through with their promise..


----------



## kckyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> Can't really blame all those people with ryzen builds tho..
> There's always been some form of delay from Launch day one..If it wasn't the m/b availability,there would be the ram , and now the AM4 bracket waiting...I kinda feel for them...
> Ryzen is a new platform that was released prematurely imo , but I believe that it wont be long for the top air cooler manufacturers to come through with their promise..


just got this this morning.

Hi again,

alright, the parts will go out these days.

Pleas expect a delivery time of 7-14 working days.

Kind regards,
Andreas Karner
Noctua support team

guess i'm using a noctua for my amd build.


----------



## Nickyvida

Guys, just a quick question.

I have a H5 Universal with dual XF140 fans currently that i am going to use, but i'm worried about its oc capability.

Is it worth it to switch to an R1 uni or ulti for the price and performance difference between the two heatsinks?

Thanks!


----------



## kckyle

dunno too much about h5 but the r1 is fairly amazing, i run mine at low voltage and even thn i don't hit above 70 underload.


----------



## AyyMD

I do have a review of the R1 on here and on my site, you can see how it performs on my 8350 and decide for yourself.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> dunno too much about h5 but the r1 is fairly amazing, i run mine at low voltage and even thn i don't hit above 70 underload.


Thanks. Do you have additional fans that you use with the R1? Like add on 140mm fans on the brackets?


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*
> 
> I do have a review of the R1 on here and on my site, you can see how it performs on my 8350 and decide for yourself.


Thanks, will check it out.

In your opinion would it be worth to upgrade to the R1 from the H5 as im not very knowledgeable about this? Thanks!


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Thanks, will check it out.
> 
> In your opinion would it be worth to upgrade to the R1 from the H5? Thanks!


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*


Thanks for the chart. I guess i might decide once i recieve the bracketand evaluate my H5 under benching.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Thanks for the chart. I guess i might decide once i recieve the bracketand evaluate my H5 under benching.


Sounds like a plan. The H5 is a great cooler, but obviously not as great as R1. At very high wattage load levels I would guess the R1 is 4-8c better.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

On the plus side though, hopefully when Naples comes out the new setup works for that too, because an R1 Ultimate would be nice to slap onto a 16c/32t cpu ^_^


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> On the plus side though, hopefully when Naples comes out the new setup works for that too, because an R1 Ultimate would be nice to slap onto a 16c/32t cpu ^_^


Whenever that CPU is released, I'm gonna see if I can get it for my test bench. If I can't, I'll just stick to my 8350 or maybe a 4770K.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*
> 
> Whenever that CPU is released, I'm gonna see if I can get it for my test bench. If I can't, I'll just stick to my 8350 or maybe a 4770K.


I suspect it would have diminishing returns on a benching rig, as Vantage maxes out at 12 cores, and Firestrike is something like 16. Another problem might be getting it to go further as the current eight core Ryzen offerings are having problems pushing past 4.05-4.1GHz on all cores even when watercooled. For 2D stuff it could definitely get interesting though, especially if Naples has the same advantages as the current Ryzen lineup (can be overclocked, and is rather efficient). Would be nice to see things get a nice shakedown overall though!

Myself, I'm mainly looking at it because I'll gladly take 4x the threads to use in BOINC (at an estimated 2x power usage), and my audio software can make use of those threads too ^_^


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sounds like a plan. The H5 is a great cooler, but obviously not as great as R1. At very high wattage load levels I would guess the R1 is 4-8c better.


Thanks! Is that difference enough to justify the cost of an R1? Im not very sure on this stuff.

Anyway, still no news or email even though its almost the middle of the month soon. I doubt they might meet the mid april ship out fpr Ryzen brackets but im still holding out hope.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Thanks! Is that difference enough to justify the cost of an R1? Im not very sure on this stuff.
> 
> Anyway, still no news or email even though its almost the middle of the month soon. I doubt they might meet the mid april ship out fpr Ryzen brackets but im still holding out hope.


What temps is your CPU running now? Your H5 is a good cooler. If your case airflow is setup so it's supply air at or near room temp to cooler you are probably fine.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What temps is your CPU running now? Your H5 is a good cooler. If your case airflow is setup so it's supply air at or near room temp to cooler you are probably fine.


Havent had the chance to use my H5 yet, until the brackets come in. Right now im on a TT CS12 that goes up to 75C which is the Ryzen shut off if im not wrong, on benching and idles on 35-41C. It thermally crashes despite having a decent airflow.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Havent had the chance to use my H5 yet, until the brackets come in. Right now im on a TT CS12 that goes up to 75C which is the Ryzen shut off if im not wrong, on benching and idles on 35-41C. It thermally crashes despite having a decent airflow.


I"m not familiar with a "TT CS12" cooler.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I"m not familiar with a "TT CS12" cooler.


I'm guessing ThermalTake Contac Silent 12.

http://www.thermaltake.com/mobile/productinfo.aspx?id=C_00003031


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I"m not familiar with a "TT CS12" cooler.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I'm guessing ThermalTake Contac Silent 12.
> 
> http://www.thermaltake.com/mobile/productinfo.aspx?id=C_00003031


Yes yes, it's that cooler. Sorry i didn't really know the name apart from the initials. It was the only one with the AM4 brackets on sale when i was assembling my rig hence i bought it as a stand in cooler. It's a 120mm single fan cooler.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Yes yes, it's that cooler. Sorry i didn't really know the name apart from the initials. It was the only one with the AM4 brackets on sale when i was assembling my rig hence i bought it as a stand in cooler. It's a 120mm single fan cooler.


If CPU is running cool now, it will be cooler with H5.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If CPU is running cool now, it will be cooler with H5.


Hmm im not sure. It goes up to 75C wo offsets during benching and then crashes and idles around 41C.

75C is the shutoffpoint for Ryzen chips if im not wronh.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Hmm im not sure. It goes up to 75C wo offsets during benching and then crashes and idles around 41C.
> 
> 75C is the shutoffpoint for Ryzen chips if im not wronh.


Either way, I would wait until you get the AM4 mount and try the H5 you now have. I'm assuming you cannot return it for credit toward R1, so if it works you are fine. If not it will still be better than what you are now using and you can order a even better cooler.

What is the air temp going into your cooler now?


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Either way, I would wait until you get the AM4 mount and try the H5 you now have. I'm assuming you cannot return it for credit toward R1, so if it works you are fine. If not it will still be better than what you are now using and you can order a even better cooler.
> 
> What is the air temp going into your cooler now?


Yup that has been the plan for now as i ordered it during the haswell era and would be ineligible for any refunds. I so far im seeing it idle between 35 to 41 degrees using CP-5 paste. Is that abnormally high for idling?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Yup that has been the plan for now as i ordered it during the haswell era and would be ineligible for any refunds. I so far im seeing it idle between 35 to 41 degrees using CP-5 paste. Is that abnormally high for idling?


Without knowing the temperature of air going into cooler it's hard to say. 35-41c is not extreme, but I usually see 22-31c idle temps .. a few degrees above intake air temp plus spikes on whatever core is being used for whatever .. surfing web, etc.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Without knowing the temperature of air going into cooler it's hard to say. 35-41c is not extreme, but I usually see 22-31c idle temps .. a few degrees above intake air temp plus spikes on whatever core is being used for whatever .. surfing web, etc.


By temps going into the case, you mean the ambient? I'm not very sure but the ambient temps in room and the case should be roughly around 30-35 degrees. I usually only have web open, until benching time when temps usually spike from 35 to 75C. Playing games net me around 50-60C usually.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> By temps going into the case, you mean the ambient? I'm not very sure but the ambient temps in room and the case should be roughly around 30-35 degrees. I usually only have web open, until benching time when temps usually spike from 35 to 75C. Playing games net me around 50-60C usually.


No, not the temperature of air going into your case. That air going into the cooler is warmed by heated air coming off of other components and sometimes by the cooler exhaust air and is almost always at least a couple degrees warmer than room air. It is not uncommon for it to be 15-20c warmer in a gaming computer with a gaming GPU.
It's all explained in this link

http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22319249


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No, not the temperature of air going into your case. That air going into the cooler is warmed by heated air coming off of other components and sometimes by the cooler exhaust air and is almost always at least a couple degrees warmer than room air. It is not uncommon for it to be 15-20c warmer in a gaming computer with a gaming GPU.
> It's all explained in this link
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22319249


Oh i see. I'm not sure how to measure that. So you mean my casing temperature could be at least 40+ degrees before reaching the cooler, going by 30C ambient?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Oh i see. I'm not sure how to measure that. So you mean my casing temperature could be at least 40+ degrees before reaching the cooler, going by 30C ambient?


Airflow from room gets warmer when ti absorbs heat from the components. The key to good airflow is explained the link in my previous post.

Either you did not open the link in previous post and read "How airflow works", "Setting up a case for optimum cooling" and "How to monitor air temperature different places inside of case" or do not understand English language .. and I think you understand English based on your posts.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Airflow from room gets warmer when ti absorbs heat from the components. The key to good airflow is explained the link in my previous post.
> 
> Either you did not open the link in previous post and read "How airflow works", "Setting up a case for optimum cooling" and "How to monitor air temperature different places inside of case" or do not understand English language .. and I think you understand English based on your posts.


Oops my bad . I didn't catch the link. Will check it out!

Thanks for the explaination re the airflow.


----------



## Dan-H

I finally got around to installing H7s into two of our Dell XPS 8700 micro ATX desktops. These are stock clocked core i7 4770s with slightly overclocked GTX 970 graphics cards in a case that is pretty poorly designed for cooling.

I had previously hacked the front of the case to add a 120mm intake fan, removed the unused PCIe blanks to provide way for the graphics card heat to get out and upgraded the exhaust to an NF B9.





Dell uses a proprietary CPU cooler mount, and there's a video in this post on the dell community forum showing an easy way to mod it so it will accept the H7. http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/desktop/f/3514/t/19993539?pi21953=1

I did not run any before and after temp tests, however the CPU max temps under stress test are about 15C lower than with the stock dell HSF, which is similar to the stock intel HSF.

Overall a great improvement.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> I finally got around to installing H7s into two of our Dell XPS 8700 micro ATX desktops. These are stock clocked core i7 4770s with slightly overclocked GTX 970 graphics cards in a case that is pretty poorly designed for cooling.
> 
> I had previously hacked the front of the case to add a 120mm intake fan, removed the unused PCIe blanks to provide way for the graphics card heat to get out and upgraded the exhaust to an NF B9.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dell uses a proprietary CPU cooler mount, and there's a video in this post on the dell community forum showing an easy way to mod it so it will accept the H7. http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/desktop/f/3514/t/19993539?pi21953=1
> 
> I did not run any before and after temp tests, however the CPU max temps under stress test are about 15C lower than with the stock dell HSF, which is similar to the stock intel HSF.
> 
> Overall a great improvement.
Click to expand...

15c is indeed a nice improvement!








Temps would likely be even lower with more case airflow. Single 120mm intake fan is maybe just enought to match the airflow of CPU or GPU, but only half or less than half of airflow both of them use when working hard.







You might find "Wyays to Better Cooling" link in my sig of intereest. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. 5th is a good place to start.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 15c is indeed a nice improvement!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps would likely be even lower with more case airflow. Single 120mm intake fan is maybe just enought to match the airflow of CPU or GPU, but only half or less than half of airflow both of them use when working hard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You might find "Wyays to Better Cooling" link in my sig of intereest. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. 5th is a good place to start.


Thanks for the reminder to re-read your cooling thread. I haven't looked at it recently, and I haven't really considered these systems much when reading it.

Right now the systems are running cooler than they have since the first GTX 760 was added. The stock exhaust fan is only 92mm, so having the H7 push air to the exhaust fan helps it get out, and the front 120 seems to push enough air out the open slots below the graphics card.

I think I've done as much as I'm willing or able to do to these Dell Cases, and I'm not sure it makes sense to replace all the innards into a new case but that would be the next thing I think.

a case with dust filters and a couple more fans would make these much nicer to deal with.

Thanks


----------



## AuraNova

Random question here. I'm going to be putting a different fan on my H7 when I do my build. Is there anyone out there that has an H7 (or any Cryorig for that matter) and uses a different fan than the stock fan?


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AuraNova*
> 
> Random question here. I'm going to be putting a different fan on my H7 when I do my build. Is there anyone out there that has an H7 (or any Cryorig for that matter) and uses a different fan than the stock fan?


I outfitted my H5 which has an XT140 stock iirc with twin XF140s, not sure if that is related to your question. but hope it helps.

Just curious, by the way, have you recieved any news on your AM4 bracket?

Thank you!


----------



## AuraNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> I outfitted my H5 which has an XT140 stock iirc with twin XF140s, not sure if that is related to your question. but hope it helps.
> 
> Just curious, by the way, have you recieved any news on your AM4 bracket?
> 
> Thank you!


That actually is quite informative. I was curious to see if other people were doing this. I'm replacing the stock fan with a ThermalTake Riing 12.

Been checking my emails every other day, and so far nothing on the bracket. I'm giving it another couple of weeks.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AuraNova*
> 
> That actually is quite informative. I was curious to see if other people were doing this. I'm replacing the stock fan with a ThermalTake Riing 12.
> 
> Been checking my emails every other day, and so far nothing on the bracket. I'm giving it another couple of weeks.


Yup. I did mine to get more out of the cooler and if i go the R1 route in the future, the extra fans will come in handy as well. Ypu should try 2 fans on the heatsink.

Ah i see. Is that for the acknowledgement of your order or have you placed it already and waiting for news of the shipment like i am

Just got an email back. Essentially the same email as Kyle with the end of the month for shipment


----------



## Pascalwb

OMG they moved it again? Seams like they will be the last with am4 bracket.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pascalwb*
> 
> OMG they moved it again? Seams like they will be the last with am4 bracket.


Im not too cobfident in the should be in thier email pertaining to a mid april release. Could be and april to early may for shipment at the very least.


----------



## AuraNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Ah i see. Is that for the acknowledgement of your order or have you placed it already and waiting for news of the shipment like i am


Oh, I placed it a while ago. Probably 2 weeks ago? Maybe less?


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AuraNova*
> 
> Oh, I placed it a while ago. Probably 2 weeks ago? Maybe less?


Ah i see. I placed mine in Feb during the preorder days, was acknowleged when Ryzen was recieved. They'll ask you for phone number anc address usually by then. Have you reached that stage?


----------



## AuraNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Ah i see. I placed mine in Feb during the preorder days, was acknowleged when Ryzen was recieved. They'll ask you for phone number anc address usually by then. Have you reached that stage?


I did mine through the AM4 sign up page. I'm hoping they got the information.


----------



## TheInternal

So, I bought both a Cryorig H5 and Cryorig C7 in the last two weeks.

Impressive packaging. Nice build quality. Easy installation. However, the fan on my Cryorig H5 is loud as **** (by my standards). It's like a herd of angry crickets at load. My old Zalman CNPS10X is almost inaudible at load, and gets around the same temps on my older OC'd build. Is my H5 fan just defective, or should I return the whole thing? I went with it because of good reviews, the white top to match my build (Gigabyte Phoenix SLI and Corsair Vengeance LPX), and because it fit in my NZXT S340 with white interior.

The Cryorig C7 is louder than I prefer, but still has better acoustic properties than my Scythe Shrunken Big in my Node 202 build... though the temps in that case are crap (hitting mid 90Cs at 100% sustained load on i7-7700k stock setitngs

Any thoughts or suggestions? If I can get a good QUIET fan that looks okay on the H5, I could see keeping it around.Is it even possible to put on a different fan?


----------



## kckyle

i'm a little worried, my x58 mobo that i used my r1 on was thick and had metal backplates, this gigabyte b350 micro board seems kinda thin and flexy. not sure if its good idea in the long run to put a heavy r1 on it lol


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheInternal*
> 
> So, I bought both a Cryorig H5 and Cryorig C7 in the last two weeks.
> 
> Impressive packaging. Nice build quality. Easy installation. However, the fan on my Cryorig H5 is loud as **** (by my standards). It's like a herd of angry crickets at load. My old Zalman CNPS10X is almost inaudible at load, and gets around the same temps on my older OC'd build. Is my H5 fan just defective, or should I return the whole thing? I went with it because of good reviews, the white top to match my build (Gigabyte Phoenix SLI and Corsair Vengeance LPX), and because it fit in my NZXT S340 with white interior.
> 
> The Cryorig C7 is louder than I prefer, but still has better acoustic properties than my Scythe Shrunken Big in my Node 202 build... though the temps in that case are crap (hitting mid 90Cs at 100% sustained load on i7-7700k stock setitngs
> 
> Any thoughts or suggestions? If I can get a good QUIET fan that looks okay on the H5, I could see keeping it around.Is it even possible to put on a different fan?


Which H5 did you get? If it's the Universal that thin fan is kinda noisy. Sometimes the fan get knocked around in shipping and a push on motor hub in center of fan will shift the fan back into position an lower noise.

What is the air temp going into the C7? You may have a problem with it circling it's air.
Even on open bench testing just turning the fan often lowers mobo and CPU temps by 5-8c


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> i'm a little worried, my x58 mobo that i used my r1 on was thick and had metal backplates, this gigabyte b350 micro board seems kinda thin and flexy. not sure if its good idea in the long run to put a heavy r1 on it lol


I have not used the B350, but I have never had a motherboard warp or damaged by heavy coolers like R1. In fact I have never seen a motherboard damaged by a heavy cooler that was not abused .. either in shipping of owner dropping it, pushing compuner off of desk, etc.


----------



## doyll

I just heard from Cryorig that they will be posting Ryzen / AM4 upgrades starting the first of next week.

I do not know if you guys are aware, but the reason for this delay in having mounts for new CPU mount spacing is because AMD did not give most cooler companies the AM4 mount spacing until the day they released the Ryzen CPU. The only people who had any idea what the spacing would be were the few who had pre-release samples. Normally this kind of mounting measurements are given to all companies that sell products for it a months ahead of release so mounts are ready when CPU releases.

This means most companies had to scramble to design, test and produce new mounts after people started buying Ryzen. So if you want to blame someone, blame AMD.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AuraNova*
> 
> I did mine through the AM4 sign up page. I'm hoping they got the information.


They should have it soon. I think there's quite a backlog of orders hence the delay.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> They should have it soon. I think there's quite a backlog of orders hence the delay.


My understanding is all preorders one will most likey have one on it's way next week.


----------



## SeriousTom

I was wondering if the CRYORIG R1 Universal is over-kill for a Ryzen 1700X @ 4 GHz ?
If it is, what else I should I get.
I'm looking for something that doesn't over hang the memory slots and as small as is needed.


----------



## AuraNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> My understanding is all preorders one will most likey have one on it's way next week.


It would be epic if I got my bracket delivered at the same time I got my CPU. Then I can finally get this build done and over with.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousTom*
> 
> I was wondering if the CRYORIG R1 Universal is over-kill for a Ryzen 1700X @ 4 GHz ?
> If it is, what else I should I get.
> I'm looking for something that doesn't over hang the memory slots and as small as is needed.


This was one reason why I went for the H7. It seems it will perform well, and have enough clearance to let you put any RAM. I don't think either would give you an issue running 4 GHz.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousTom*
> 
> I was wondering if the CRYORIG R1 Universal is over-kill for a Ryzen 1700X @ 4 GHz ?
> If it is, what else I should I get.
> I'm looking for something that doesn't over hang the memory slots and as small as is needed.


Ryzen 1700X at 4 GHz is going to be at least 200w TDP, maybe 240w or more .. and R1 is conservatively rated 250w so sounds about right to me.







It's always better to have more cooling then need rather then not having enough.







Besides, having a cooler that can cool more then needs is quieter because their fans don't need to spin up as fast to keep things cool


----------



## TheInternal

Yeah, my H5 is the Universal model.

I can try flipping the fan on the C7 and see if it makes a difference. Frankly, I'm pretty sure I need to de and relid my 7700k, regardless. It's crazy how **** the TIM is on the newer intel chips.


----------



## SeriousTom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Ryzen 1700X at 4 GHz is going to be at least 200w TDP, maybe 240w or more .. and R1 is conservatively rated 250w so sounds about right to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's always better to have more cooling then need rather then not having enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides, having a cooler that can cool more then needs is quieter because their fans don't need to spin up as fast to keep things cool


Thanks, If I buy one then I will get the R1 Universal and maybe the black shroud they have for it.


----------



## mAs81

Hey guys,just a little question if someone knows...

I have the petite Cryorig C7 , and I was wondering if anyone knows if I can install the fan on it as exhaust , as in the picture below :


Spoiler: Upflow vs Downflow







I want to put it in an Air 240 case with 2 120mm fans as intake and two more on the top as exhaust , and I believe that setting up the fan that way will provide better cooling,but I don't know if it's possible..

If anyone who has the C7 can chip in , I'd highly appreciate it









Nevermind , after a little more research I found that it cannot be reversed









Let's hope that it won't suffer in cooling since I won't be overclocking the CPU anyways


----------



## Loosenut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I just heard from Cryorig that they will be posting Ryzen / AM4 upgrades starting the first of next week.
> 
> I do not know if you guys are aware, but the reason for this delay in having mounts for new CPU mount spacing is because AMD did not give most cooler companies the AM4 mount spacing until the day they released the Ryzen CPU. The only people who had any idea what the spacing would be were the few who had pre-release samples. Normally this kind of mounting measurements are given to all companies that sell products for it a months ahead of release so mounts are ready when CPU releases.
> 
> This means most companies had to scramble to design, test and produce new mounts after people started buying Ryzen. So if you want to blame someone, blame AMD.


this seems to be the Ryzen theme. bios wasn't ready so memory didnt run on spec, limited coolers....ugh


----------



## Nickyvida

My understanding is all preorders one will most likey have one on it's way next week.[/quote]

Yep, that should tie in with the scheduled end of april arrival according to a local distributor here.

Thanks for the update!


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> Nevermind , after a little more research I found that it cannot be reversed


What you need are some 92mm 212evo-style mounting brackets, if you know someone with a 3d printer and some basic cad skills you could get them made.

Or you could make your own steel-wire mounts, all you need is some patience and a pair of pliers.


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> What you need are some 92mm 212evo-style mounting brackets, if you know someone with a 3d printer and some basic cad skills you could get them made.
> 
> Or you could make your own steel-wire mounts, all you need is some patience and a pair of pliers.


Or I could get another fan mounted , I think that it is possible..

Well,seeing that I still haven't built the system,thus having no cooling performace whatsoever,I guess I'll cross that bridge when I see it..

Thanks


----------



## Pascalwb

Any news about am4? Just saw this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ojR_kJde_E


----------



## AuraNova

Hmmmm, I don't know whether to be happy for him, angry I don't have mine yet, envious that he got one, or any combination of all three. I'm more worried I'm not going to get mine. I get this strange feeling they never got my information.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AuraNova*
> 
> Hmmmm, I don't know whether to be happy for him, angry I don't have mine yet, envious that he got one, or any combination of all three. I'm more worried I'm not going to get mine. I get this strange feeling they never got my information.


Same here. I have no word on mine either despite preordering early before Ryzen release. Ill guess its alright since i have a stand in cooler anyway.


----------



## kckyle

my stand in noctua is whisper quiet, temp a bit high for my liking but its twice as small as my r1 so no surprise there


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> my stand in noctua is whisper quiet, temp a bit high for my liking but its twice as small as my r1 so no surprise there


Same here. Can't wait for the bracket to arrive. I cant overclock my Ryzen to its full potential without thermally crashing as it is.


----------



## kckyle

yeah so far, because of temp, i have not seen XFR kick in once. i'm literally sitting here wondering why oh why did i spend the extra 100 on the 1700x over 1700 if i don't even have a adequate cooler to push it.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> yeah so far, because of temp, i have not seen XFR kick in once. i'm literally sitting here wondering why oh why did i spend the extra 100 on the 1700x over 1700 if i don't even have a adequate cooler to push it.


XFR's kicking in for my 1800x but in sporadic moments. I see it going up to 4.1 at times but downclocks automatically. Is it the same for ypu

Seems like my local CR distributor's had the bracket shipped out to them and recieved yesterday but i don't think im eligible to collect as i preordered my H5 from tw before they started selling and importing them officially

Meanwhile still no news over here.


----------



## kckyle

i run r15, and so far i have not see it go above 3.5ghz. not sure what is going on, but my temp jumps to around 70-80c.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> i run r15, and so far i have not see it go above 3.5ghz. not sure what is going on, but my temp jumps to around 70-80c.


Is your pc set to high performance on power options? Try to download hwinfo latest beta. There's a temp offset of 20 degrees if im not wrong. Hwinfo reads the temp without offset.


----------



## kckyle

no its set to balance due to not able to sleep properly, you think thats the problem?


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> no its set to balance due to not able to sleep properly, you think thats the problem?


Im not sure but i have it on high. Perhaps that might be the case?


----------



## kckyle

i'll take a look at it this weekend, but its not like i can get much done with this high temp anyway lol.

i'll probably run it through whenever cryorig decide to get off their ass and send me a bracket


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> i'll take a look at it this weekend, but its not like i can get much done with this high temp anyway lol.
> 
> i'll probably run it through whenever cryorig decide to get off their ass and send me a bracket


High temps may be the offset reading bug. AMD over reports temps by 20 degrees for some reason. Not sure if it applies to all of its processers. Hwinfo beta should be able to read the true temps.

I cant do much either too. But hopefully it can ease the oc problem on yr side


----------



## kckyle

yeah i noticed ryzen master temp is a good 20 delta higher than hwinfo is reporting


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> yeah i noticed ryzen master temp is a good 20 delta higher than hwinfo is reporting


Yep. Download hwinfo 64, it should read the true die temps rather than the offset. Current bios are reading offset which is wrong.


----------



## Nickyvida

Welp looks like im SOL trying my luck with the local distro to see if i can buy the mount from them. Thier stocks are low hence are only reserved for users who bought locally. All have been allocated and retail ones have to wait for a next shipment.

Guess it's back to waiting again.


----------



## AuraNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AuraNova*
> 
> Hmmmm, I don't know whether to be happy for him, angry I don't have mine yet, envious that he got one, or any combination of all three. I'm more worried I'm not going to get mine. I get this strange feeling they never got my information.


Touching back on this again, I do believe Cryorig never got my information. I went to the AM4 page to input everything in the first time. After I filled out the form, the next page said that the "email has been sent." I'm also supposed to get a confirmation email, which I realized I never got.

I've been in talks with customer service, who basically told me to re-input the registration card again. Just in case, I filled out the form again. Still no confirmation email.

Also, for some reason, I can't apply to their VIP membership. It doesn't accept my email or name, apparently. I've tried 2 different browsers and get the same errors. I am starting to think registering for VIP is a requirement to registering for the bracket?









@Nickyvida, how did you register for your bracket? Because I am thinking they don't have any of the information we input.


----------



## Pascalwb

I just filled out the form month ago. I wrote them yesterday if they can confirm, that my registration is ok, and they said, they see my email on the list. Also I think they don't sent any confirm. email, except for that 1st automatic one. They said they are sending it this week, so sadly from China or Honk Kong or where they are it will be like 2 weeks.


----------



## iRUSH

I take it getting an AM4 bracket from Cryorig is not an easy task?


----------



## kckyle

i think my r1 is getting more dusty sitting on my shelve than it was in the case


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AuraNova*
> 
> Touching back on this again, I do believe Cryorig never got my information. I went to the AM4 page to input everything in the first time. After I filled out the form, the next page said that the "email has been sent." I'm also supposed to get a confirmation email, which I realized I never got.
> 
> I've been in talks with customer service, who basically told me to re-input the registration card again. Just in case, I filled out the form again. Still no confirmation email.
> 
> Also, for some reason, I can't apply to their VIP membership. It doesn't accept my email or name, apparently. I've tried 2 different browsers and get the same errors. I am starting to think registering for VIP is a requirement to registering for the bracket?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Nickyvida, how did you register for your bracket? Because I am thinking they don't have any of the information we input.


Hi aura sorry to hear about that. If it helps, i pmed Cryorig support(email) instead of filling up the AM4 bracket request site when i applied for the bracket. They acknowledged my order in a reply email and asked for my local address which i supplied in another reply email.

Thereafter i had an update saying mid april as a tentative date in a third email around the time i was inquiring about an update as to when it would be shipped. No updates beyond this point except for the local distributors getting the brackets in my above posts.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> i think my r1 is getting more dusty sitting on my shelve than it was in the case


same here for my H5.i think it's beena month for me since i dismantled it for the ryzen rig.

There are brackets with local distributors already in my country but it's all been spoken for those who bought locally. My H5 was a direct order from TW before they started selling here officially. Even buying one from them isn't possible as they have to wait for a second shipment which is for the retail segment


----------



## darealist

My h75 pump, and any watercoolers for that matter, rattles like crazy and now I'm starting to hear that crap when I'm sleeping. #eardamage #traumatized
Back to aircooling with Cryorig!


----------



## AuraNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> I take it getting an AM4 bracket from Cryorig is not an easy task?


It doesn't seem like it. Although, people say they haven't had any issues.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Hi aura sorry to hear about that. If it helps, i pmed Cryorig support(email) instead of filling up the AM4 bracket request site when i applied for the bracket. They acknowledged my order in a reply email and asked for my local address which i supplied in another reply email.
> 
> Thereafter i had an update saying mid april as a tentative date in a third email around the time i was inquiring about an update as to when it would be shipped. No updates beyond this point except for the local distributors getting the brackets in my above posts.


Well, do keep us informed when you get yours. I don't know what other methods I'd have to do. If this doesn't work out, I might have to sell off the thing and get something else.

On that note, I still haven't heard back from them.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AuraNova*
> 
> It doesn't seem like it. Although, people say they haven't had any issues.
> Well, do keep us informed when you get yours. I don't know what other methods I'd have to do. If this doesn't work out, I might have to sell off the thing and get something else.
> 
> On that note, I still haven't heard back from them.


Will do. Although my case is just like yours atm. No updates as well. I dont know if it's the same in your location but you could try popping down to whoever does the RMA handling/importing distribution of Cryorig coolers in your local area and see if you can purchase a bracket from them. I tried that but they only had preexisting shipment stocks that were reserved for people who bought locally.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> I take it getting an AM4 bracket from Cryorig is not an easy task?


It's not impossible, but only if you have a lot of patience.

Way i see it, i'm probably looking at a May arrival for mine since it's coming to end of April right now.


----------



## doyll

I just emailed Cryorig today, but won't have a reply until Monday. Will let you know what I find out.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I just emailed Cryorig today, but won't have a reply until Monday. Will let you know what I find out.


Seems some are getting thier brackets already. fingers crossed

https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/669r8y/something_from_cryorig_finally_arrived_today/


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Seems some are getting thier brackets already. fingers crossed
> 
> https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/669r8y/something_from_cryorig_finally_arrived_today/


That is 3 day delivery .. probably as fast as anything posted. I get 3-7 day from Taipai to UK and 5-10 day to USA. Mostly depends on port of entry and security checking things or just passing them on through.


----------



## iRUSH

Can anyone here give me a good reason as to why AMD changed​ their mounting solution?


----------



## AuraNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> Can anyone here give me a good reason as to why AMD changed their mounting solution?


Your guess is as good as mine.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> That is 3 day delivery .. probably as fast as anything posted. I get 3-7 day from Taipai to UK and 5-10 day to USA. Mostly depends on port of entry and security checking things or just passing them on through.


Was there an option for that? Wouldve gladly paid if so. But there wasnt any delivery option
Hmm. I see he emailed recently as well as last week. While those who ordered months in advance are still waiting.

Ugh.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Was there an option for that? Wouldve gladly paid if so. But there wasnt any delivery option
> Hmm. I see he emailed recently as well as last week. While those who ordered months in advance are still waiting.
> 
> Ugh.


We really don't know who is waiting longest. They started mailing them out 6 days ago (17-4-2017 ). Add 3-10 days for delivery and we are in middle of delivery window for mounts posted out on the 17th and not a few days later. We know a few have been received in the 3-5 day time .. and I'm guessing more were delivered in the last few of days and will be arriving in the next few days. Here in UK best time is 3 working days from Taipei .. and usually 5 working days. East coast USA takes at least 7 days from Taipei.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> We really don't know who is waiting longest. They started mailing them out 6 days ago (17-4-2017 ). Add 3-10 days for delivery and we are in middle of delivery window for mounts posted out on the 17th and not a few days later. We know a few have been received in the 3-5 day time .. and I'm guessing more were delivered in the last few of days and will be arriving in the next few days. Here in UK best time is 3 working days from Taipei .. and usually 5 working days. East coast USA takes at least 7 days from Taipei.


Well 2 months is a pretty long turn around time. I've preordered way even before Ryzen released but with no news and that's excluding others who recently signed up like Aura, kyle who are even less in the know if thier orders even went through despite preordering many times weeks ago. I'm beginning to have doubts that my order was registered as its approaching end of april and no shipment yet

Im not upset or venting and i'm patient enough to wait as there are encouraging signs but i can't say the same for others.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Well 2 months is a pretty long turn around time. I've preordered way even before Ryzen released but with no news and that's excluding others who recently signed up like Aura, kyle who are even less in the know if thier orders even went through despite preordering many times weeks ago. I'm beginning to have doubts that my order was registered as its approaching end of april and no shipment yet
> 
> Im not upset or venting and i'm patient enough to wait as there are encouraging signs but i can't say the same for others.


While 2 months is a long time to us waiting for a new mount so we can use our great coolers, it is a very short time to design, test, schedule manufacturing test run, re-test, make a real manufacturing run and ship product. As I have said before, AMD did not give most cooler companies their AM4 mounting specifications until the day they started selling the CPU !! The only people who had AM4 CPUs were motherboard people and a very few others. I have no idea what AMD was thinking. Normal procedure is to announce the mount specifications several months before release of CPU, not the day of release.

End result is cooler companies could gamble that top of CPU IHS would be the same as previous CPUs and built a mount to fit the hole pattern used on pre-release motherboards or continue waiting for AMD to publish the mounting specifications. Most chose to wait .. Cryorig is not / was not the only one still dealing with this problem.

So *Shame on AMD for not releasing mount specifications in a timely manor !!* so cooler companies could make mounts ahead of release date.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> While 2 months is a long time to us waiting for a new mount so we can use our great coolers, it is a very short time to design, test, schedule manufacturing test run, re-test, make a real manufacturing run and ship product. As I have said before, AMD did not give most cooler companies their AM4 mounting specifications until the day they started selling the CPU !! The only people who had AM4 CPUs were motherboard people and a very few others. I have no idea what AMD was thinking. Normal procedure is to announce the mount specifications several months before release of CPU, not the day of release.
> 
> End result is cooler companies could gamble that top of CPU IHS would be the same as previous CPUs and built a mount to fit the hole pattern used on pre-release motherboards or continue waiting for AMD to publish the mounting specifications. Most chose to wait .. Cryorig is not / was not the only one still dealing with this problem.
> 
> So *Shame on AMD for not releasing mount specifications in a timely manor !!* so cooler companies could make mounts ahead of release date.


You mentioned testing......which is something that many companies did not do. There were mounts out at Ryzen release and prior. These were obviously just done off of measurements and never tested. Just a "plop it on top" with no testing or regard to how mounting pressure may impact performance. I would rather a mount come out in two months and be right than have one that merely has the ability to hold the cooler in place.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You mentioned testing......which is something that many companies did not do. There were mounts out at Ryzen release and prior. These were obviously just done off of measurements and never tested. Just a "plop it on top" with no testing or regard to how mounting pressure may impact performance. I would rather a mount come out in two months and be right than have one that merely has the ability to hold the cooler in place.










That was as much my point as the time delay in mounts being released .. but I didn't say it.
Thanks for pointing it out!


----------



## Loosenut

as large as the R1 is, I too would rather it work correctly the first time. 5-7 working days wait for me officially from the support email I received just a bit ago


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loosenut*
> 
> as large as the R1 is, I too would rather it work correctly the first time. 5-7 working days wait for me officially from the support email I received just a bit ago


I do not understand your post.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> While 2 months is a long time to us waiting for a new mount so we can use our great coolers, it is a very short time to design, test, schedule manufacturing test run, re-test, make a real manufacturing run and ship product. As I have said before*, AMD did not give most cooler companies their AM4 mounting specifications until the day they started selling the CPU !! The only people who had AM4 CPUs were motherboard people and a very few others.* I have no idea what AMD was thinking. Normal procedure is to announce the mount specifications several months before release of CPU, not the day of release.
> 
> End result is cooler companies could gamble that top of CPU IHS would be the same as previous CPUs and built a mount to fit the hole pattern used on pre-release motherboards or continue waiting for AMD to publish the mounting specifications. Most chose to wait .. Cryorig is not / was not the only one still dealing with this problem.
> 
> So *Shame on AMD for not releasing mount specifications in a timely manor !!* so cooler companies could make mounts ahead of release date.


Any information or source on this? Way i see it it's just like the AM4 motherboard supply problem which makers blamed AMD and vice versa. At the end of the day both are to blame.

If AMD didn't give any bracket information out no one would be able to manufacture mounts for AM4, much less get it to fit or cool adequately due to the disparity in sizes.

Most of the companies have resolved the issues largely. But i and many people still have no updates within the original tentative quoted march and now almost end april date. While i am patient and willing to wait, i can't imagine others will be.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Any information or source on this? Way i see it it's just like the AM4 motherboard supply problem which makers blamed AMD and vice versa. At the end of the day both are to blame.
> 
> If AMD didn't give any bracket information out no one would be able to manufacture mounts for AM4, much less get it to fit or cool adequately due to the disparity in sizes.
> 
> Most of the companies have resolved the issues largely. But i and many people still have no updates within the original tentative quoted march and now almost end april date. While i am patient and willing to wait, i can't imagine others will be.


How can you be so gullible / naive? How can anyone but AMD be resposnible for their not releasing mounting specification before starting to sell Ryzen? Do you believe you or your apartment owner is to blame for a power blackout? Because saying AMD is not the one to blame is like saying apartment owner and you are to blame for you not having electricity when there is a power company blackout.
Do you believe people have unicorns and dragons too?
















*AMD not giving out mount specifications is common knowledge among people who followed the AM4 development.*
We were able to figure out the mounting hole spacing, but nothing was official until day Ryzen went on sale.

How can anyone but AMD be to blame? They are the source of needed information, and they did not supply it .. so how can AMD blame anyone else? Simple as that.

Again; AMD supplied some CPU data to motherboard manufacturers but never officially released the CPU mounting requirements until the day they started selling the CPUs. Any mounts made before that information was released were made based on guesses .. and while the 54.14mm X 90mm is not a critical measurement, the thickness of CPU / height the IHS is above motherboard is extremely critical. Intel publishes a LGA xxxx datasheet with all the relevant specifications .. not just the mount size and IHS above mohterboard measurements, but including load pressure between cooler and IHS. This is the information needed to design a cooler mount that will work properly.

We can add to this the problem of no pre-release CPUs available to cooler companies .. meaning they could not test mounts on actual product to be sure everything was working as planned .. this testing is critical to be sure everything is as it should be.

Like ciarlatano said, some companies made mounts on the assumption they would work .. many did not and are just recently making mounts available to their customers.

*AMD not releasing mount specifications is the reason for snafu / fubar delay in mounts being available to us.*


----------



## kckyle

got some update for you guys

Dear Customer,Just wanted you to know that the AM4 upgrade kits you applied has been shipped out. Please expect a delivery time of 5-7 working days.
We thank you for your patient and for your support in Cryorig's product.
All the best,
--
Email: [email protected]
CRYORIG | research idea gear


----------



## iRUSH

What's the procedure for the manufacturer to include the new bracket?

Will they ship brackets to the sellers to add the the existing cooler?

Or will people just have to go through this current process till inventory clears and the new box with AM4 included? Which could take a very long time.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> got some update for you guys
> 
> Dear Customer,Just wanted you to know that the AM4 upgrade kits you applied has been shipped out. Please expect a delivery time of 5-7 working days.
> We thank you for your patient and for your support in Cryorig's product.
> All the best,
> --
> Email: [email protected]
> CRYORIG | research idea gear


Good news! Thanks for posting it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> What's the procedure for the manufacturer to include the new bracket?
> 
> Will they ship brackets to the sellers to add the the existing cooler?
> 
> Or will people just have to go through this current process till inventory clears and the new box with AM4 included? Which could take a very long time.


Check with your retailer. Coolers packaged after brackets were in production come with them. Older ones do not, but retailers may have brackets to supply with these older packaged coolers.

If retailer does not have AM4 brackets, maybe look for different retailer who does?


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> got some update for you guys
> 
> Dear Customer,Just wanted you to know that the AM4 upgrade kits you applied has been shipped out. Please expect a delivery time of 5-7 working days.
> We thank you for your patient and for your support in Cryorig's product.
> All the best,
> --
> Email: [email protected]
> CRYORIG | research idea gear


Nice. Have the message finally too. 5-9 for mine.

Props to Cryorig.


----------



## Pascalwb

Still nothing and I requested it like month ago.


----------



## AuraNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> got some update for you guys
> 
> Dear Customer,Just wanted you to know that the AM4 upgrade kits you applied has been shipped out. Please expect a delivery time of 5-7 working days.
> We thank you for your patient and for your support in Cryorig's product.
> All the best,
> --
> Email: [email protected]
> CRYORIG | research idea gear


I got the same message today!







I'm quite excited.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pascalwb*
> 
> Still nothing and I requested it like month ago.


Pretty sure it wont take long now. I assume they're goung through the mailing list and it might come any time soon.


----------



## Loosenut

received my updated bracket today. will be installing later this evening. so to those who are still waiting, should be any day now

edit: I noticed the am4 bracket is very loose before attaching the cooler, instructions are a bit vague on which side of the stud go down. You'll see there is a machined lip on the stand screws, this goes down, the directions show a line in the grip surface of these screws. once the cooler was attached, it was very firm and steady


----------



## Nickyvida

Seems like i am missing 4 washers from mine.

I dont see the circled part anywhere and im using a Cryorig H5 which came with the Type A upgrade kit.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Seems like i am missing 4 washers from mine.
> 
> I dont see the circled part anywhere and im using a Cryorig H5 which came with the Type A upgrade kit.


What you have circled looks like the nuts that screw onto the mounting spacer studs.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What you have circled looks like the nuts that screw onto the mounting spacer studs.


Yeah i dont see it anywhere in the type a package. Only the bracket with the 4 double sided screws (B) in the illustrationwere in it.


----------



## misoonigiri

Maybe they come with the main package instead of the upgrade kit?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Yeah i dont see it anywhere in the type a package. Only the bracket with the 4 double sided screws (B) in the illustrationwere in it.


Could you use the thumb screw nuts from your original mount on the new AM4 mount?

Edit: like misoonigiri said.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Could you use the thumb screw nuts from your original mount on the new AM4 mount?


Hmm i was using lga 1150 mounting for the H5 previously so im not sure if it will fit.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Could you use the thumb screw nuts from your original mount on the new AM4 mount?
> 
> Edit: like misoonigiri said.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misoonigiri*
> 
> Maybe they come with the main package instead of the upgrade kit?


Edit found it. Was in the lga 1150 bracket!

Thanks all!


----------



## Nickyvida

Edit to prevent confusion. The motherboard plate in the update kit tutorial came off hence i didnt see it. Its working fine now


----------



## misoonigiri

-deleted to prevent confusion-


----------



## balfan123

Does the X5 Ultimate's extra fan clip fit an XF140?


----------



## Nickyvida

So i installed it. Finally. Not much of a difference. Shaved off 5 degrees from a 47 degree idle and now hovering at a 42 as reported by bios.

Looking forward to see how it does overclocking


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> So i installed it. Finally. Not much of a difference. Shaved off 5 degrees from a 47 degree idle and now hovering at a 42 as reported by bios.
> 
> Looking forward to see how it does overclocking


So decent temps? Do you know hwat the cooler intake air temp is versus CPU temp?


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> So decent temps? Do you know hwat the cooler intake air temp is versus CPU temp?


Still higher that average idle but decent. I guess its because of the high ambient. The bios temps are still bugged iirc, it has a 20 offset.

It is 31 vs 42 for CPU temps regarding the cooler intake.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickyvida*
> 
> Still higher that average idle but decent. I guess its because of the high ambient. The bios temps are still bugged iirc, it has a 20 offset.
> 
> It is 31 vs 42 for CPU temps regarding the cooler intake.


Room is 31c or the actual cooler intake air temp? If room air then it may be the cooler is getting air at about 37c, meaning cooler air to CPU temp is 5c delta .. which is quite good. If that is true and you improve case airflow so cooler is using air at same temp as room temp then the CPU would be 37 instead of 41c.


----------



## Nickyvida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Room is 31c or the actual cooler intake air temp? If room air then it may be the cooler is getting air at about 37c, meaning cooler air to CPU temp is 5c delta .. which is quite good. If that is true and you improve case airflow so cooler is using air at same temp as room temp then the CPU would be 37 instead of 41c.


Room is 31.

Hmm i think the bios is bugged. i downloaded Hwinfo and it says the die temp is within 37 degrees idle. but the Tctl says its 47+.

Overclocking was a bust. It still hits 75 degrees(Tdie) and shuts down at 4.1 @1.41v, same issue on cinebench

I wonder if it's voltage related or temperature related.


----------



## AuraNova

On the day I got my bracket, I got an email from B&H saying my CPU has shipped.

I can FINALLY finish this darn build once and for all!


----------



## Sazyk

Hi guys, i got a new Cryorig R1 Universal a few days ago but i'm worried about my temps, i'm getting the exact same temps i was getting with my Hyper 212 EVO (Push/Pull), around 75 to 80ºc in IBT High for stock [email protected] (undervolted).

I've tried reinstalling it 3 times but same results. I thought i'd get an improvement in my temps as i've seen in some reviews.

Any idea what may be the problem?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazyk*
> 
> Hi guys, i got a new Cryorig R1 Universal a few days ago but i'm worried about my temps, i'm getting the exact same temps i was getting with my Hyper 212 EVO (Push/Pull), around 75 to 80ºc in IBT High for stock [email protected] (undervolted).
> 
> I've tried reinstalling it 3 times but same results. I thought i'd get an improvement in my temps as i've seen in some reviews.
> 
> Any idea what may be the problem?


Can you give the specifics on the build?


----------



## Sazyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Can you give the specifics on the build?


Here they are:

i7 7700k
Cryorig R1 Universal
Asus z270 TUF Mark II
2x8gb 3200Mhz
Asus ROG GTX1080
OCZ Vector 128gb
SAMSUNG 850 EVO 250gb
2xWD Blue 1tb | NZXT H440
CM Silent Pro 700w


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazyk*
> 
> Here they are:
> 
> i7 7700k
> Cryorig R1 Universal
> Asus z270 TUF Mark II
> 2x8gb 3200Mhz
> Asus ROG GTX1080
> OCZ Vector 128gb
> SAMSUNG 850 EVO 250gb
> 2xWD Blue 1tb | NZXT H440
> CM Silent Pro 700w


R1 is more than adequate for cooling 7700K
What case and case fan setup?
How much TIM did you use?


----------



## Sazyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> R1 is more than adequate for cooling 7700K
> What case and case fan setup?
> How much TIM did you use?


NZXT H440 with 6 Corsair AF120, 3 as intake and 3 as exhaust. First i used the rice grain size method as i always do and then i tried the pea size method, getting the same temps. Tried MX-4 and the one that comes with the R1.

I just don't think that the fans may be a problem, cause if they were i should still be getting better temps than i got with the 212 and the TIM was the same method.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazyk*
> 
> NZXT H440 with 6 Corsair AF120, 3 as intake and 3 as exhaust. First i used the rice grain size method as i always do and then i tried the pea size method, getting the same temps. Tried MX-4 and the one that comes with the R1.
> 
> I just don't think that the fans may be a problem, cause if they were i should still be getting better temps than i got with the 212 and the TIM was the same method.


Well, I tend to disagree. You have a case with notoriously bad airflow and a very restrictive intake and top exhaust. You are using some of the worst fans ever made for the application (well....most applications, actually) since they get absolutely choked in even the slightest restrictive environment and don't move any air. Air coolers need cool air to operate whether it be a 212 or R1. With a combo of an H440 and Corsair AF fans.....that very likely isn't happening.

In short....the sailboat strikes again.


----------



## Sazyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Well, I tend to disagree. You have a case with notoriously bad airflow and a very restrictive intake and top exhaust. You are using some of the worst fans ever made for the application (well....most applications, actually) since they get absolutely choked in even the slightest restrictive environment and don't move any air. Air coolers need cool air to operate whether it be a 212 or R1. With a combo of an H440 and Corsair AF fans.....that very likely isn't happening.
> 
> In short....the sailboat strikes again.


I agree that H440 is very restrictive in terms of airflow and AF fans aren't the best option, but even if a test with the case completely open the difference is 4-5ºc, so i don't think that "airflow" is the big deal here.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazyk*
> 
> I agree that H440 is very restrictive in terms of airflow and AF fans aren't the best option, but even if a test with the case completely open the difference is 4-5ºc, so i don't think that "airflow" is the big deal here.


The temp drops 4-5C, or the R1 tests 4-5C better than the 212?

Either way, you should be seeing a bigger difference than that. I'm assuming you checked to make sure the cooler isn't touching any other components. Also, you should have seen a couple of degrees difference when switching TIMs, with the MX-4 being better. I'm almost wondering if you have a bad TIM layer between the chip and IHS. That would cause similar temps with almost any cooler you throw on it simply because the heat wouldn't be getting to the cooler properly.


----------



## Sazyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The temp drops 4-5C, or the R1 tests 4-5C better than the 212?
> 
> Either way, you should be seeing a bigger difference than that. I'm assuming you checked to make sure the cooler isn't touching any other components. Also, you should have seen a couple of degrees difference when switching TIMs, with the MX-4 being better. I'm almost wondering if you have a bad TIM layer between the chip and IHS. That would cause similar temps with almost any cooler you throw on it simply because the heat wouldn't be getting to the cooler properly.


I think that's the problem, the TIM intel uses.

I just tested everything, 2 SP fans intake, 2 AF exhaust, close case, open case, the R1 vertical and horizontal, all the TIMs i have and i get almost the same results. After installing the R1 like 10 times i'm 100% sure i'm doing it right so that's not the problem for sure.

I also checked the contact between IHS and cooler is perfect.

So, if i was getting around 77ºc with the 212 and now, with the R1 open case, the best i can get is 71º i think either the internal TIM is a piece of ***** or the R1 completely sucks.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazyk*
> 
> I think that's the problem, the TIM intel uses.
> 
> I just tested everything, 2 SP fans intake, 2 AF exhaust, close case, open case, the R1 vertical and horizontal, all the TIMs i have and i get almost the same results. After installing the R1 like 10 times i'm 100% sure i'm doing it right so that's not the problem for sure.
> 
> I also checked the contact between IHS and cooler is perfect.
> 
> So, if i was getting around 77ºc with the 212 and now, with the R1 open case, the best i can get is 71º i think either the internal TIM is a piece of ***** or the R1 completely sucks.


The possibility of R1 being the problem is somewhere between slim and none. That is a proven fact!

6c lower temps with R1 versus 212 is about right for a stock CPU.

Without actually knowing what the cooler intake air temp is makes it very hard to rule out air temp into cooler not being the problem. Open case does not mean air temp into cooler is at or near room ambient .. and every degree warmer the air is going into cooler is about a degree hotter the CPU will be.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazyk*
> 
> I think that's the problem, the TIM intel uses.
> 
> I just tested everything, 2 SP fans intake, 2 AF exhaust, close case, open case, the R1 vertical and horizontal, all the TIMs i have and i get almost the same results. After installing the R1 like 10 times i'm 100% sure i'm doing it right so that's not the problem for sure.
> 
> I also checked the contact between IHS and cooler is perfect.
> 
> So, if i was getting around 77ºc with the 212 and now, with the R1 open case, the best i can get is 71º i think either the internal TIM is a piece of ***** or the R1 completely sucks.


Unless you somehow got a bad R1 (improperly milled contact area, heatpipes not sitting correctly in the block, etc), which is very unlikely, it doesn't completely suck. The R1 was actually the best air cooler I had tested while I was reviewing, out of the box as good as, or better than, the D15/Silver Arrow/TC14PE on Intel 115X, and significantly better than the 212. Even the H7 was a nice performance step up from the 212. There is an issue somewhere, and I know that the 7700 has notoriously bad TIM, so that was my first thought. It is certainly exhibiting the symptoms, but I would hate to see you delid and have that not be the case. I need to think on this.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazyk*
> 
> I think that's the problem, the TIM intel uses.
> 
> I just tested everything, 2 SP fans intake, 2 AF exhaust, close case, open case, the R1 vertical and horizontal, all the TIMs i have and i get almost the same results. After installing the R1 like 10 times i'm 100% sure i'm doing it right so that's not the problem for sure.
> 
> I also checked the contact between IHS and cooler is perfect.
> 
> So, if i was getting around 77ºc with the 212 and now, with the R1 open case, the best i can get is 71º i think either the internal TIM is a piece of ***** or the R1 completely sucks.


I can assure you that the R1 doesn't suck. . . It can tackle my 4670k at 1.40v while staying in the mid 80s while stressing with prime 95/aida64/intel burn test. Let me add that at a lower voltage a 212 may perform similarly but once you crank up the voltage past 1.25v its where the 212 was, in my case, left in the dust. If I was you I would delid that mofo to reapply the ****ty TIM that intel uses. Also the H440 sucks in the airflow department. A friend of mine has one and his R1 is ~10c hotter than my R1 in the CM Storm enforcer case.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Biggest question that comes to my mind is what speed are the fans running at for the R1. If they're turned down, naturally the cooler won't seem to be doing as well.

*Lake CPUs are known for having terrible IHS to core tim, with many seeing as much as a 20C drop in load temperatures just by delidding and using a proper paste between the two.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Biggest question that comes to my mind is what speed are the fans running at for the R1. If they're turned down, naturally the cooler won't seem to be doing as well.
> 
> *Lake CPUs are known for having terrible IHS to core tim, with many seeing as much as a 20C drop in load temperatures just by deciding and using a proper paste between the two.


".. just by deciding and using proper paste..." Do you mean delidding? .. or are you still trying to deicde?








I think you mean delidding, but not sure.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> ".. just by deciding and using proper paste..." Do you mean delidding? .. or are you still trying to deicde?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think you mean delidding, but not sure.


I wrote delidding but apparently SwipeKeys forgot half the custom dictionary again when it updated,and then decided to just autocorrect anyways.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I wrote delidding but apparently SwipeKeys forgot half the custom dictionary again when it updated,and then decided to just autocorrect anyways.


I don't use any auto-spelling. I think 20c is probably more improvement than anyone actually gets, but I guess if case fans were all unplugged before delidding and running full speed after .. combined with not using TIM before and getting a good TIM print after there could be 20c lower CPU temps.







Delidding and better TIM temp improvements are like fish stories.


----------



## Pascalwb

So for H5 and ryzen, do I just use the back plane that was on mother board. In the AM4 kit box, there was only the bracket, no back plate.


----------



## kckyle

Got it


----------



## Sazyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Biggest question that comes to my mind is what speed are the fans running at for the R1. If they're turned down, naturally the cooler won't seem to be doing as well.
> 
> *Lake CPUs are known for having terrible IHS to core tim, with many seeing as much as a 20C drop in load temperatures just by delidding and using a proper paste between the two.


I have a custom curve for them, but over 70ºc they run at full speed.


----------



## kckyle

does anyone else have the r1 with ryzen? my idle temp is 65 and cinebench hit 94c. im gonna let the tim set in but i don't think thtere is good contact point with this new am4 bracket.


----------



## kckyle

got the r1 working, it wasn't easy, i practically tear my pc apart getting the thing fit. apparently i have to use the rubber square thing that came with the r1. but the rubber was too thick, causing the whole bracket to not attaching to the cooler properly. i had to get creative and change up the mounting procedure. after 2 hours it worked in the end. now my temp doesn't go above 72c


----------



## Pascalwb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pascalwb*
> 
> So for H5 and ryzen, do I just use the back plane that was on mother board. In the AM4 kit box, there was only the bracket, no back plate.


So I used the back plate that came with the board. Cryorig support said to do the same. I put it in s340 Elite, fits ok. Installation was b*tch. First I didn't line it up properly, meaning the screw were not in the holes. But after I did it, only thing I needed to do was connect the fan. I couldn't get my hand there. So I hat to do it all over again.


----------



## Dimensive

https://www.techpowerup.com/233402/cryorig-releases-nzxt-cam-powered-h7-quad-lumi-rgb-cooler


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/233402/cryorig-releases-nzxt-cam-powered-h7-quad-lumi-rgb-cooler


I'm working on new H7 Quad Lumi now and will post it soon. It's the same size as original H7 with a additional heatpipe and new fan .. and of course RGB LEDs in both cooler and fan.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm working on new H7 Quad Lumi now and will post it soon. It's the same size as original H7 with a additional heatpipe and new fan .. and of course RGB LEDs in both cooler and fan.


Awesome. I'm curious about its performance, as well as how good the LEDs are in white. Says it has an internal USB 2.0 header, so I assume that's how the NZXT CAM software adjusts the LEDs?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Awesome. I'm curious about its performance, as well as how good the LEDs are in white. Says it has an internal USB 2.0 header, so I assume that's how the NZXT CAM software adjusts the LEDs?


Sorry, I'm working on drawings now. Don't have cooler yet, but was soon as I do I'll be testing and posting results.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

But at $60 for the H7 with the fancy LEDs might as well dish out the additional cash for an R1. . . Or better yet, save some money and buy the H5 Ultimate. I was expecting $45 at most.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> But at $60 for the H7 with the fancy LEDs might as well dish out the additional cash for an R1. . . Or better yet, save some money and buy the H5 Ultimate. I was expecting $45 at most.


I totally agree, but we don't have RGB LED monkies on our backs.


----------



## Argowashi

I'm currently doing a black/grey/white themed build and this new RGB cooler is absolutely perfect for me. With a delidded CPU and minor overclock my temperatures shouldn't be higher than 60-65 during heavy load.

Going to swap out the fan for 2x Be Quiet SilentWings High to maximise cooling and minimize noise.


----------



## jopy

ryzen 1600 and h5,
have anyone ever tried mounting a 2nd fan to h5? worth the trouble?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> ryzen 1600 and h5,
> have anyone ever tried mounting a 2nd fan to h5? worth the trouble?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yes, you an mount 2nd fan, but at most yu will gain a couple degrees. It\s really not worth doing.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yes, you an mount 2nd fan, but at most yu will gain a couple degrees. It\s really not worth doing.


-1/2 degree?


----------



## deniskos

Hi guys, i got the R1 ultimate. And i m thinking about changing the stock fans. Anyone done it? any experience on that? I 'm pretty happy with he performance of the stock fans, but i was thinking about something more quiet at full rpm or something with led lighting. Thanks in advance.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> -1/2 degree?


Minus one degree, two degrees, maybe 3 degrees at most. I have not tested H5 wiht push-pull, i have tested many other coolers and have found very little difference. You will get better results for time and effort by making sure your case airflow into cooler is only 2-5c above room temp. 5th topic in "Ways to Better Cooling" linked in my sig explains the basics of case airflow. The lower the rpm the more noticeable the difference is under heavy load. Reason is obviously fans move less air at lower speeds, but more because fan cannot overcome resistance as well at lower speeds. While Stacking fans (push-pull) does not increase rated airflow, but does increase pressure rating . and higher pressure rating means fans can overcome resistance better and flow more air. Noise level is about the same with 1 or 2 fans, and if single push fan is spinning about 50rpm more than push-pull fans at low rpm it flows about the same .. and at full speed there is almost no difference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deniskos*
> 
> Hi guys, i got the R1 ultimate. And i m thinking about changing the stock fans. Anyone done it? any experience on that? I 'm pretty happy with he performance of the stock fans, but i was thinking about something more quiet at full rpm or something with led lighting. Thanks in advance.


It depends on what fan you want to use. They need to be 140mm fans with 120mm mounting (105mm hole spacing). I changed mine to TY-147A. Here are pics of R1 Ultimate and R1 Universal with TY-147A fans.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Minus one degree, two degrees, maybe 3 degrees at most. I have not tested H5 wiht push-pull, i have tested many other coolers and have found very little difference. You will get better results for time and effort by making sure your case airflow into cooler is only 2-5c above room temp. 5th topic in "Ways to Better Cooling" linked in my sig explains the basics of case airflow. The lower the rpm the more noticeable the difference is under heavy load. Reason is obviously fans move less air at lower speeds, but more because fan cannot overcome resistance as well at lower speeds. While Stacking fans (push-pull) does not increase rated airflow, but does increase pressure rating . and higher pressure rating means fans can overcome resistance better and flow more air. Noise level is about the same with 1 or 2 fans, and if single push fan is spinning about 50rpm more than push-pull fans at low rpm it flows about the same .. and at full speed there is almost no difference.
> 
> thks~ guess i wont be adding another fan


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Minus one degree, two degrees, maybe 3 degrees at most. I have not tested H5 wiht push-pull, i have tested many other coolers and have found very little difference. You will get better results for time and effort by making sure your case airflow into cooler is only 2-5c above room temp. 5th topic in "Ways to Better Cooling" linked in my sig explains the basics of case airflow. The lower the rpm the more noticeable the difference is under heavy load. Reason is obviously fans move less air at lower speeds, but more because fan cannot overcome resistance as well at lower speeds. While Stacking fans (push-pull) does not increase rated airflow, but does increase pressure rating . and higher pressure rating means fans can overcome resistance better and flow more air. Noise level is about the same with 1 or 2 fans, and if single push fan is spinning about 50rpm more than push-pull fans at low rpm it flows about the same .. and at full speed there is almost no difference.
> 
> thks~ guess i wont be adding another fan
> 
> 
> 
> Do it for the looks. . . I knew it wouldn't make a difference but I still added a 3rd one to my r1
Click to expand...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> Do it for the looks. . . I knew it wouldn't make a difference but I still added a 3rd one to my r1


With the case exhaust so close to back cooler fan it is very likely you are loosing overall airflow.








But if you like it by all means keep it. If we all thought and like the same things it would be a very dull world.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> But if you like it by all means keep it. If we all thought and like the same things it would be a very dull world.


True ... also - we would lose the ability to YELL at people that say stupid things.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Not that you did say something stupid.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Or that I am yelling.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



AT YOU


----------



## kckyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*


what difference do you see with these fans, do they push more air than the stock?


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> With the case exhaust so close to back cooler fan it is very likely you are loosing overall airflow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if you like it by all means keep it. If we all thought and like the same things it would be a very dull world.


Have it mounted vertically right now. That an old pic


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> what difference do you see with these fans, do they push more air than the stock?


I did not test for airflow. Temps are a little better, and quieter too, but the biggest difference is I like sound profile is much more pleasant to my ears.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> Have it mounted vertically right now. That an old pic


I had a x58 in R2 case years back Silver Arrow cooler mounted vertical.








I built a duct from cooler to top vent.


----------



## kckyle

i have the same fans laying around, with different color, green and orange, the color won't match up but if the sound profile is that much more pleaseant.


----------



## Shneiky

Detailed tests of the fans inside an H440. The TY-147 sound much, much better as far as noise profile goes. It is also, much easier to be absorbed by the foam, and the sound from the TYs decays faster with distance. The sound of stock R1s is hard to dampen, either via sound dampening foam or other means and it survives quite the distance.

Point being though, single TY beats an XF. Though Dual XFs beat dual TYs. I guess some kind of Jet Fin Acceleration fairies or dual XF flow optimization mumbo-jumbo or a margin of error in the tests.

Don't get me wrong - the XFs are wonderful fans. But their lowest speed is 770 rpm (in my system) which is unnecessary high. If their started at 500 - I would have not bothered with the TYs in the first place. The TY-147A start at 300 (or 450 in my case) and stay there for most of the time, unless I am rendering.

Either way - I use 3ple TY-147A. Rarely see them at 700 rpm, except in torture tests. Nice sound profile. I do recommend.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> Detailed tests of the fans inside an H440. The TY-147 sound much, much better as far as noise profile goes. It is also, much easier to be absorbed by the foam, and the sound from the TYs decays faster with distance. The sound of stock R1s is hard to dampen, either via sound dampening foam or other means and it survives quite the distance.
> 
> Point being though, single TY beats an XF. Though Dual XFs beat dual TYs. I guess some kind of Jet Fin Acceleration fairies or dual XF flow optimization mumbo-jumbo or a margin of error in the tests.
> 
> Don't get me wrong - the XFs are wonderful fans. But their lowest speed is 770 rpm (in my system) which is unnecessary high. If their started at 500 - I would have not bothered with the TYs in the first place. The TY-147A start at 300 (or 450 in my case) and stay there for most of the time, unless I am rendering.
> 
> Either way - I use 3ple TY-147A. Rarely see them at 700 rpm, except in torture tests. Nice sound profile. I do recommend.


Nice bit of testing .. but "RPM" instead of "Temp" on left side of graphscrewed with my brain. I admit, it's first thing in the morning and I'm still rather bleary eyed with only a couple sips of my first cup of coffee.









Is the case exhaust the black impellered TY with 300-1300rpm range? The TY-140 Black that comes on TRUE Spirit 140 Direct and Macho Direct? I never understood that model number. TY-140 was original tan / grey-blue color 700-1300rpm (spec was 900-1300rpm), TY-147 was black / white same rpm as Ty-140 (color being only differnece). TY-147A lowered idle speed to 300rpm with a differnt PWM% to rpm curve. If we use their model number to design, speed, color, the logical model number would be TY-147A Black. TY-140 Black would be a 900-1300rpm fan, not 300-1300rpm.

I'm kinda surprised the XF is cooling slightly better than TY at same speed. I'm assuming case and cooler intake airflow temps are the same. It is unlikely the air temp would change with fans in same placement and same rpm. When I tested I monitored cooler intake air temp (was same with both fan setups) and didn't have 1c difference. Either way it's within margin of error and TY have much nicer sound profile to my ears too.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm kinda surprised the XF is cooling slightly better than TY at same speed. .


I'm not. Tiny amount. The XF140 may move a little more air at the same speed, have better vacuum characteristics (which would explain the disparity between 1 and 2 fan), etc. But, not enough of a difference to even note.

That said....were it my build....it would have a pair of TY-147A that never see over 800rpm. I am willing to sacrifice 2C in the most extreme conditions (which happen so incredibly infrequently) for near silence. Does it make any difference of my CPU is 55C or 57C while rendering? No, it does not. Does it matter if I can hear the cooler (at a distracting level) while rendering? Yes, it does.


----------



## kckyle

besides the ty-147A in green and orange, i also have a noctua 140mm, since none of them are black, i guess color bias is out of the window, which one you guys reckon will do that job,

p.s. taking the fans on and off has becomre more challengging since gpu is so close to the cooler now, hence why i rather get opinion first rather than do it myself first.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> besides the ty-147A in green and orange, i also have a noctua 140mm, since none of them are black, i guess color bias is out of the window, which one you guys reckon will do that job,
> 
> p.s. taking the fans on and off has becomre more challengging since gpu is so close to the cooler now, hence why i rather get opinion first rather than do it myself first.


Depends what Noctua fan you have, but I doubt any of them are better at same rpm as TY-147A. If we disregard color bias, the TY-143 is every bit as good as TY-147A from 550rpm (it's minimum speed) to 1300rpm (like TY-147A) .. and it can be run all the way up to 2500rpm .. or to whatever rpm you can stand it's noise. For me it is same as TY-147A an most other good 140mm fans .. about 1100rpm.


----------



## kckyle

the one that came with the d14. 140mm


----------



## Shneiky

Quote:


> Nice bit of testing .. but "RPM" instead of "Temp" on left side of graphscrewed with my brain. I admit, it's first thing in the morning and I'm still rather bleary eyed with only a couple sips of my first cup of coffee. biggrin.gif
> 
> Is the case exhaust the black impellered TY with 300-1300rpm range? The TY-140 Black that comes on TRUE Spirit 140 Direct and Macho Direct? I never understood that model number. TY-140 was original tan / grey-blue color 700-1300rpm (spec was 900-1300rpm), TY-147 was black / white same rpm as Ty-140 (color being only differnece). TY-147A lowered idle speed to 300rpm with a differnt PWM% to rpm curve. If we use their model number to design, speed, color, the logical model number would be TY-147A Black. TY-140 Black would be a 900-1300rpm fan, not 300-1300rpm.
> 
> I'm kinda surprised the XF is cooling slightly better than TY at same speed. I'm assuming case and cooler intake airflow temps are the same. It is unlikely the air temp would change with fans in same placement and same rpm. When I tested I monitored cooler intake air temp (was same with both fan setups) and didn't have 1c difference. Either way it's within margin of error and TY have much nicer sound profile to my ears too.


The black one is a hand painted TY-147A. The case has 6 intake Be Quiet! 120mm fans. All 3 CPU fans are controlled via a PWM splitter directly to the motherboard header. The testing set-up is the same for both TYs and XFs. The 6 intakes make the H440 reach an equilibrium in less than half an hour.

When I was looking at H440 reviews (kitguru, Tomshardware, Linus, hardwarecanucs and more...) - I noticed they kept 3 intakes and put a radiator exhaust on top - causing the case to need hours to reach equilibrium in the reviews meaning it had to recycle hot air. With 6 intakes - that problem is elevated. Since the case reaches equilibrium in less than half an hour - I would suppose that the case amd intake temps are the same - didn't have a probe to measure it. The RPM curve starts at 450 - because my Z77 E6 couldn't take the TYs lower. This is 2 years old tests now.

When I did the testing I noticed that the XFs were producing higher pressure. 2 XFs were pushing air much harder and to a longer distance out of the R1 than the 2 TYs. At least with the samples I have I can guarantee that the XFs do have superior cooling albeit at a higher noise, specially in a case with a lot of obstructions or lesser intakes. If I turned off the intakes fans - the XFs were doing a better job at cooling, but that was just a proof of concept and I did not pursue that test further.

More about it in my signature: Ways to better cooling in highly restrictive / silent cases


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> When I was looking at H440 reviews (kitguru, Tomshardware, Linus, hardwarecanucs and more...) - I noticed they kept 3 intakes and put a radiator exhaust on top


Something to keep in mind about case reviews....when you have certain mfg leaning on you to use specific components in your reviews, you don't always do the configurations that are best for the case and particular components that are installed in the case at that time.









You will notice that some reviews do dual testing. One with a configuration that makes sense, and one with the CLC they were forced into using.


----------



## Shneiky

Yes I do notice that. Though, I receive similar results if I use the top as exhaust. The H440 is just made to have 6 intakes and not use a CLC if you don't want to suffocate your components or make it sound like a jet engine. CLCs are a joke anyway - double the price, double the noise, 3-5Cs gain in best case scenario for the CLC. 1-3 C in realistic scenarios.

Not to mention that a CLC in a benchmark from a reputable website is left for maybe 1-2 hours of stress testing. Which is very far from a 40-60 hours rendering sessions I sometimes get. The liquid in the CLC will only get hotter with the passing hours - thus a CLC will most likely fall behind a large air cooler. Though they don't really do 24 hours stress tests that often to show that weakness of the CLCs.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> The black one is a hand painted TY-147A. The case has 6 intake Be Quiet! 120mm fans. All 3 CPU fans are controlled via a PWM splitter directly to the motherboard header. The testing set-up is the same for both TYs and XFs. The 6 intakes make the H440 reach an equilibrium in less than half an hour.
> 
> When I was looking at H440 reviews (kitguru, Tomshardware, Linus, hardwarecanucs and more...) - I noticed they kept 3 intakes and put a radiator exhaust on top - causing the case to need hours to reach equilibrium in the reviews meaning it had to recycle hot air. With 6 intakes - that problem is elevated. Since the case reaches equilibrium in less than half an hour - I would suppose that the case amd intake temps are the same - didn't have a probe to measure it. The RPM curve starts at 450 - because my Z77 E6 couldn't take the TYs lower. This is 2 years old tests now.
> 
> When I did the testing I noticed that the XFs were producing higher pressure. 2 XFs were pushing air much harder and to a longer distance out of the R1 than the 2 TYs. At least with the samples I have I can guarantee that the XFs do have superior cooling albeit at a higher noise, specially in a case with a lot of obstructions or lesser intakes. If I turned off the intakes fans - the XFs were doing a better job at cooling, but that was just a proof of concept and I did not pursue that test further.
> 
> More about it in my signature: Ways to better cooling in highly restrictive / silent cases


Great information!








+ rep

I know what you mean about taking a long time to reach equilibrium. It's the elephant in the room rarely talked about .. and the reason I am always preaching case airflow. All of my systems reach equilibrium in about 3-5 minutes .. maximum of 10 minutes and that's usually after peaking and coming down a couple degrees. I think the initial heat builds up a little before case fans / case airflow catchsup /smooths out. These were in my old modified Define R2. I can't find the graphs from newer cases .. if I even kept them.







;


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



 



Was there really higher pressure or was it maybe higher rpm combined with fan's abiilty to keep air in a more cylindrical flow? I ask because testing I've see shows TY fans being better than XF at same rpm.

Here is XF140, XT140, TY-140/147, and TY-147A fan PWM % to rpm curves .. if you want to know.
As you can see the XF curve is much more agressive / higher rpm to PWM signal %. Combine this with it's higher speed and it is easy to get the impression it is a better fan.


But when we look at their performance at same rpm we can see the TY-147A flows more air at lower noise level with high pressure rating.


Here is TY-143 added to show how much the rpm difference effects peak performance. The TY-143 is same fan as TY-147A but with more powerful motor and ball bearings.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Something to keep in mind about case reviews....when you have certain mfg leaning on you to use specific components in your reviews, you don't always do the configurations that are best for the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that some reviews do dual testing. One with a configuration that makes sense, and one with the CLC they were forced into using.


I've found that often the configuration 'best for the case' and system is dependent on what components are being used in the system..


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I've found that often the configuration 'best for the case' and system is dependent on what components are being used in the system..


You know what I mean. No need to nitpick.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You know what I mean. No need to nitpick.


I was only trying to point out that 'best case flow' is dependent on what components are being used. You know this, and I know this, but others reading this may not.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I was only trying to point out that 'best case flow' is dependent on what components are being used. You know this, and I know this, but others reading this may not.


Edited, just for clarification.


----------



## kckyle

So.... should I keep the stock r1 fans? Or swap them out for noctua d14 fans or the thermalright ones


----------



## Shneiky

Quote:


> Was there really higher pressure or was it maybe higher rpm combined with fan's abiilty to keep air in a more cylindrical flow? I ask because testing I've see shows TY fans being better than XF at same rpm.


Yes, my samples point it out without a mistake. I not only tested as i said above, but I also tried same RPMs to measure temp, not only did I try controlling them via motherboard, but also with an external fan controller in open case. My fan samples show that dual XFs at 900~ish RPM perform the same as dual TY-147As at 1100-ish RPM, though the noise from the TYs being much more pleasant. This might be due to my particular samples of the fans. All of the test were done without dismounting the R1 - so thermal paste application is the same for all test.

It could be the focused flow of the XFs, but definitely they perform better in pairs. While in single configuration - the TY had an upper hand.

Bottom line - if XFs at 700 (or 780 RPM which is as low as mine go) is not bothering you noise wise - keep the XFs. If you don't like the noise and you think it's a worthwhile investment to reduce the noise - get TYs, though you are losing a bit of performance. I am a silence freak so for me it was worth it.

The TYs main strength is lower starting speed. Else, both the XF and TYs are very good fans - one focuses more on performance, the other one on noise-to-performance. If the XFs started at 500 RPM - I would have not bothered changing in the first place to be honest. And most likely I would have bought several XFs for case fans.


----------



## deniskos

Hi guys, has anyone used silent wings 3 with R1? I am thinking to change for reduced noice.. Idealy i would like to go to noctua NF A 15 but their colour discourages me..Any other suggestion for reduced noice?


----------



## Tahlzair

Hi,

Would anyone know of a way I can get a hold of the 115x screw pillars for the H5 Ultimate?

I was so stoked because I was building my very first personal build but then I noticed the H5 Ultimate I bought was packaged with two sets of the 2011 screws and none of the 115x screw pillars.

What was supposed to be a fun night turned out to be such a disappointment..

Any help would be appreciated

Cheers


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tahlzair*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Would anyone know of a way I can get a hold of the 115x screw pillars for the H5 Ultimate?
> 
> I was so stoked because I was building my very first personal build but then I noticed the H5 Ultimate I bought was packaged with two sets of the 2011 screws and none of the 115x screw pillars.
> 
> What was supposed to be a fun night turned out to be such a disappointment..
> 
> Any help would be appreciated
> 
> Cheers


Welcome to OCN. Try the Cryorig contact page.

http://www.cryorig.com/contact_us.php


----------



## kckyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deniskos*
> 
> Hi guys, has anyone used silent wings 3 with R1? I am thinking to change for reduced noice.. Idealy i would like to go to noctua NF A 15 but their colour discourages me..Any other suggestion for reduced noice?


apparently the thermalright ty fans are good alternative.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deniskos*
> 
> Hi guys, has anyone used silent wings 3 with R1? I am thinking to change for reduced noice.. Idealy i would like to go to noctua NF A 15 but their colour discourages me..Any other suggestion for reduced noice?


Silent Wings 3 would need different fan clips because they are square with 124.5mm spaced mounting holes. The XF / XT fans have 105mm spaced mounting holes .. same hole spacing as 120mm fans. If you could get TY-147A fans, they sound and perform near identical to NF-A15 at same rpm.
Edit: like kckyle said.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tahlzair*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Would anyone know of a way I can get a hold of the 115x screw pillars for the H5 Ultimate?
> 
> I was so stoked because I was building my very first personal build but then I noticed the H5 Ultimate I bought was packaged with two sets of the 2011 screws and none of the 115x screw pillars.
> 
> What was supposed to be a fun night turned out to be such a disappointment..
> 
> Any help would be appreciated
> 
> Cheers


That's a strange one. Could you post a pic of the screw pillars?

As ruffi said, contact Cryorig support.


----------



## Tahlzair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> That's a strange one. Could you post a pic of the screw pillars?
> 
> As ruffi said, contact Cryorig support.




There were two sets of these 2011 screws in the box. None for the 115x.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tahlzair*
> 
> 
> 
> There were two sets of these 2011 screws in the box. None for the 115x.


If both sets have studs out both ends of barrels they are indeed 2011 barrel studs.


----------



## Tahlzair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If both sets have studs out both ends of barrels they are indeed 2011 barrel studs.


Build would have ended up looking like this:



Took a photo with the H5 just set atop the IHS where it would have been positioned, just so I can sleep tonight, lol

Guess I'll have to wait for a weeks still..


----------



## deniskos

Thanks a lot for the answers guys. I think looks are also important so the white on the thermalright fan would ruin the build. I ll stick with the stock ones..


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deniskos*
> 
> Hi guys, has anyone used silent wings 3 with R1? I am thinking to change for reduced noice.. Idealy i would like to go to noctua NF A 15 but their colour discourages me..Any other suggestion for reduced noice?


replaced the XF 140 fans with Phanteks PH-F140HP on my R1 Ultimate. Gigabyte Z97X MoBo would not spin the XF 140s slower than 780 rpm, and I could hear them at that speed.

pics here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1461923/cryorig-fan-cooler-club-r1-ult-r1-uni-c1-h5-xf140-xt140/2190_30#post_25025677

The phanteks spin down to about 640 rpm and I cannot hear them at idle, which was my main goal because I also removed the last spinning HD.

I apologize for not having apples-to-apples before and after tests but I made several other changes since the last time I did any temp stress measurements so it would not be a fair test.

That said, I have not noticed any top-end performance difference with the phantek fans.

edit: I wanted to add that the "Wish it was mine" build, I have R1 Universal fans connected to an Asus ROG Hero VIII Z170 board. I can't find the specifics but on this board the cryorig fans spin down about 100 to 150 RPM slower than on the gigabyte board. The lower idle RPM was enough to make the fans inaudible.


----------



## mAs81

I'm very impressed by the Cryorig C7 , it's very silent and keeps things rather cool indeed for its size

I've used MX-4 when mounting it on my Haswell,and after a couple of hours of heavy gaming (Witcher 3 on a mix of ultra and high settings ,and Tomb Raider maxed out @ 1080p)the CPU was 67-69c
Pretty good temps considering it stands on top of a R9 280X non reference,which reaches almost 80c when gaming in the Air 240 case..

Granted,the CPU is not overclockable,so your mileage may vary,but overall it's a cooler I'd highly recommend


----------



## Dimensive

https://www.techpowerup.com/233640/cryorig-reveals-new-r5-cooler-cu-line-performance-coolers


----------



## kckyle

i wonder how heavy a r1 universal/ultimate in copper vrsion will weight. my r1 is heavy enough already lol


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> I'm very impressed by the Cryorig C7 , it's very silent and keeps things rather cool indeed for its size
> 
> I've used MX-4 when mounting it on my Haswell,and after a couple of hours of heavy gaming (Witcher 3 on a mix of ultra and high settings ,and Tomb Raider maxed out @ 1080p)the CPU was 67-69c
> Pretty good temps considering it stands on top of a R9 280X non reference,which reaches almost 80c when gaming in the Air 240 case..
> 
> Granted,the CPU is not overclockable,so your mileage may vary,but overall it's a cooler I'd highly recommend


I like the C7. My only compaint is the fan cannot be reversed so airlfow us up and away from motherboard.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/233640/cryorig-reveals-new-r5-cooler-cu-line-performance-coolers


Wow, you got that up quick!








I was just reading the release.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> i wonder how heavy a r1 universal/ultimate in copper vrsion will weight. my r1 is heavy enough already lol



Obviously they will be heavier. At a guess they will be heavier, but how much depends on how thick the fins are. Some coolers in copper vs aluminum fins are 3 times a heavy and others are only slightly heavier.


----------



## doyll

New R5 is interesting. Looks like a single core from R1 with 4x heatpipes.


----------



## Dimensive

I'm curious about the R5, how it will perform and its price versus the H5 & H7.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I'm curious about the R5, how it will perform and its price versus the H5 & H7.


Me too.
Looking forward to finding out what this "_Convex-Align cooler base optimization_" is all about .. and how their new "_Multi-Seg Quick Mount System_ _that promises to simplify the way coolers are mounted_" works.


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I like the C7. My only compaint is the fan cannot be reversed so airlfow us up and away from motherboard.


Yea , I would have liked that too...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*


Quote:


> The CRYORIG C7 will be the first cooler to receive the Cu enhanced treatment, with further products to be announced later


That is surely going to look glorious in my case , lol...I wonder how much better the cooling will be ,if it's better at all,and if you can mount the fan reversed as above-mentioned,tho it doesn't look like it


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> That is surely going to look glorious in my case , lol...I wonder how much better the cooling will be ,if it's better at all,and if you can mount the fan reversed as above-mentioned,tho it doesn't look like it


Other companies that have made all copper versions of their coolers did not show a lot of improvement .. 1-3c. I do like the looks but in a relatively moist environment like here in UK they tended to tarnish rather quickly.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Other companies that have made all copper versions of their coolers did not show a lot of improvement .. 1-3c. I do like the looks but in a relatively moist environment like here in UK they tended to tarnish rather quickly.


Yet the little all copper Thermolabs are absolute monsters. I always attributed it to the solid copper construction. Maybe I was wrong.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yet the little all copper Thermolabs are absolute monsters. I always attributed it to the solid copper construction. Maybe I was wrong.


Which model are you referring to? Did they make same model with aluminum fins?


----------



## javamocha

have you seen the Cryorig R5?? it's sick...want to have one


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Which model are you referring to? Did they make same model with aluminum fins?


The LP53 and ITX30. No aluminum variation that I am aware of. That's why I say I may have been wrong by attributing the performance to them being all copper.


----------



## Gilles3000

Maybe the full copper construction has more of a benefit for smaller coolers? Makes sense to get the most of of the little surface area they have.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Maybe the full copper construction has more of a benefit for smaller coolers? Makes sense to get the most of of the little surface area they have.


Possible. I'm very interested in finding out.


----------



## sorrowfool

Is the only difference between the R1 Ultimate and the R1 Universal the front fan? (CR-XFA 140mm vs CR-XTA140mm) If I have the Ultimate can I just buy the CR-XTA140mm and get the same or similar clearance for RAM?


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Nope. . . It will still cover the first ram slot. Easily avoided if you buy low profile ram.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sorrowfool*
> 
> Is the only difference between the R1 Ultimate and the R1 Universal the front fan? (CR-XFA 140mm vs CR-XTA140mm) If I have the Ultimate can I just buy the CR-XTA140mm and get the same or similar clearance for RAM?


Where did you get the CR-XTA140mm and CR-XFA 140mm model numbers. I've only see XT140 and SF140 model numbers.

R1 Ultimate and R1 Universal have different heatpipe shapes resulting in the back fin pack beng 2mm back from CPU and front fin pack being set back 4.5mm closer to CPU. This means even with the 13mm thick XT fan on R1 Ultimate it will be 53mm from center CPU to front of fan instead of 48.5mm with R1 Universal.


There is no need to buy 'low profile' RAM. Normal RAM is 34mm tall and the front fan will mount so it clears normal RAM .. but it will not clear tall RAM with foo-foo 'heat spreader' covers which are not needed and don't help cooling anyway,


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Where did you get the CR-XTA140mm and CR-XFA 140mm model numbers. I've only see XT140 and SF140 model numbers.
> 
> R1 Ultimate and R1 Universal have different heatpipe shapes resulting in the back fin pack beng 2mm back from CPU and front fin pack being set back 4.5mm closer to CPU. This means even with the 13mm thick XT fan on R1 Ultimate it will be 53mm from center CPU to front of fan instead of 48.5mm with R1 Universal.
> 
> 
> There is no need to buy 'low profile' RAM. Normal RAM is 34mm tall and the front fan will mount so it clears normal RAM .. but it will not clear tall RAM with foo-foo 'heat spreader' covers which are not needed and don't help cooling anyway,


Any ram that doesn't have the foo-foo heat spreader is classified as low profile by me lol







He must want to fit something crazy like the gkill trident z's in there or some corsair dominators


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> Any ram that doesn't have the foo-foo heat spreader is classified as low profile by me lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He must want to fit something crazy like the gkill trident z's in there or some corsair dominators


Obviously your 'classification' is not what the industry uses.








That is most likely because you have looked at RAM advertisements hyping RAM with foo-foo 'heat-spreaders' on it and believing their hype so much you now think that is 'normal hieghtl RAM.








Here are RAM PCB RAM specifications. Notice the PCBs are all 31.35mm or less tall. The tallest is DDR4 with a 0.5mm stepped base porfile making it 0.5mm taller than DDR3 RAM.


Here is a list of different RAM heights for anyone who's interested in what different RAM height is.


----------



## sorrowfool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Where did you get the CR-XTA140mm and CR-XFA 140mm model numbers. I've only see XT140 and SF140 model numbers.


I just copy+pasted them from Amazon. Didn't even notice they were different from XT140/XF140.
Quote:


> R1 Ultimate and R1 Universal have different heatpipe shapes resulting in the back fin pack beng 2mm back from CPU and front fin pack being set back 4.5mm closer to CPU. This means even with the 13mm thick XT fan on R1 Ultimate it will be 53mm from center CPU to front of fan instead of 48.5mm with R1 Universal.


Thanks, this is what I was looking for. I was hoping it would have enough room as my mobo uses slots 2 and 4 for 2 sticks.
Quote:


> There is no need to buy 'low profile' RAM. Normal RAM is 34mm tall and the front fan will mount so it clears normal RAM .. but it will not clear tall RAM with foo-foo 'heat spreader' covers which are not needed and don't help cooling anyway,


LOL, I already have the RAM and it's about as "foo-foo" as they get. (G.Skill Trident Z RGBs). I got a good deal on them, and they are purty. I built my system months ago, but my crappy (expensive) AIO crapped out after 3ish months of mediocre cooling. So I'm trying to switch back to Air, but I accidentally ordered the wrong R1 from Amazon, and didn't realize until they sent me the shipping confirmation. I was hoping to avoid the whole return/reorder process, but I looks like I may be screwed. Plus, the Universal is $20 more on Amazon than the Ultimate.

How detrimental is it to run this in a pull-pull set up?


----------



## ruffhi

foo-foo is a great word. Or is it two words?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> foo-foo is a great word. Or is it two words?


I'm not sure .. but I misspelled it .. it isn't hyphenated.









*foofoo* Adjective used to describe anything that is just a little to frilly, fancy, or "upper crust" .. a word used to characterize something that is fancy, frilly, excessive, generally above and beyond the norm; overdone

*foo foo* When you look or feel frilly, Prissy, made up, High maintenance, overdone etc..
Others can look foo foo to you also.
This pink outfit makes me feel so foo foo!

It could be called 'bling' too.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm not sure .. but I misspelled it .. it isn't hyphenated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *foofoo* Adjective used to describe anything that is just a little to frilly, fancy, or "upper crust" .. a word used to characterize something that is fancy, frilly, excessive, generally above and beyond the norm; overdone
> 
> *foo foo* When you look or feel frilly, Prissy, made up, High maintenance, overdone etc..
> Others can look foo foo to you also.
> This pink outfit makes me feel so foo foo!
> 
> *It could be called 'bling' too.*


It could also be called "useless and a source of compatibility issues".


----------



## Malik Sajid

Hi, guys! I'm resurrecting an old rig build on a C2Q Q9650. I'm planning to push it to 4.0~4.5GHz. I've narrowed my choices to these two coolers R1 and H5! Which one should I go with? It worth mentioning that H5 is 30$ cheaper than R1 in Egypt.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

That R5 looks miiiiighty tempting for the benching rig.... And those copper versions look rather gorgeous as well... Wonder how much of an improvement the C7 gets, doubly so since we're swapping the HTPC to an Intel processor of some sort in a soon-ishTM kind of manner (aka at some point when we can afford it)


----------



## khemist

I'm on water but i am going to grab one of them Copper ones for when i'm on air!.

Loving them.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik Sajid*
> 
> Hi, guys! I'm resurrecting an old rig build on a C2Q Q9650. I'm planning to push it to 4.0~4.5GHz. I've narrowed my choices to these two coolers R1 and H5! Which one should I go with? It worth mentioning that H5 is 30$ cheaper than R1 in Egypt.


R1 has considerably more cooling potential than H5, so for serious overclocking heat I would use R1.


----------



## Malik Sajid

Thanks for replying! As for the cooling potential, I've seen a h5 review on TPU. It frustrated me about the R1 it's better by just 2C. I mean let's say that R1 would be better than H5 by 5C, does that deference worth 30$?
Sorry for my English


----------



## kckyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik Sajid*
> 
> Thanks for replying! As for the cooling potential, I've seen a h5 review on TPU. It frustrated me about the R1 it's better by just 2C. I mean let's say that R1 would be better than H5 by 5C, does that deference worth 30$?
> Sorry for my English


2c for idle maybe, loaded i would assume a lot bigger margin


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik Sajid*
> 
> Thanks for replying! As for the cooling potential, I've seen a h5 review on TPU. It frustrated me about the R1 it's better by just 2C. I mean let's say that R1 would be better than H5 by 5C, does that deference worth 30$?
> Sorry for my English


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kckyle*
> 
> 2c for idle maybe, loaded i would assume a lot bigger margin


TPU ran their tests on a 4770K. And since the TIM on the 4770K IHS was sooooooo bad, heat transfer from the die to the cooler was awful. This caused all kinds of testing issues where the difference between coolers was always incredibly nominal as a result. I had a war with the owner of the site that I was reviewing for over it. He was insistent on "latest mainstream equipment", I was insistent on accuracy, and the 4770K couldn't provide it. The 4790K was a little better.

In other words.....take any testing on 4770K and that gen with a huge grain of salt, and realize that a 2C difference on a 4770K would likely result in a much larger difference on a CPU with a soldered IHS, or even one that used better TIM.

If you can find tests on a reputable site that used a soldered CPU as the test bed, that will be far more accurate.


----------



## Malik Sajid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> TPU ran their tests on a 4770K. And since the TIM on the 4770K IHS was sooooooo bad, heat transfer from the die to the cooler was awful. This caused all kinds of testing issues where the difference between coolers was always incredibly nominal as a result. I had a war with the owner of the site that I was reviewing for over it. He was insistent on "latest mainstream equipment", I was insistent on accuracy, and the 4770K couldn't provide it. The 4790K was a little better.
> 
> In other words.....take any testing on 4770K and that gen with a huge grain of salt, and realize that a 2C difference on a 4770K would likely result in a much larger difference on a CPU with a soldered IHS, or even one that used better TIM.
> 
> If you can find tests on a reputable site that used a soldered CPU as the test bed, that will be far more accurate.


Believe me I was waiting for that reply! You explain it all. I was wondering how does EVO 212 perform similarly to R1!!
I need a powerful cooler as you know 45nm chips would produce more heat so in your opinion R1 would be ideal for Q9650?


----------



## Dimensive

I'm glad I'm not the only one that had issue with TPU running their tests on the 4770K.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik Sajid*
> 
> Thanks for replying! As for the cooling potential, I've seen a h5 review on TPU. It frustrated me about the R1 it's better by just 2C. I mean let's say that R1 would be better than H5 by 5C, does that deference worth 30$?
> Sorry for my English


The difference between H5 and R1 becomes more noticeable the more heat each cooler has to handle.
Using them on a stock CPU (no overclock) there is only a couple degrees difference.
Using them on a moderately overclocked CPU and the difference is 4-7c
Using them on a high overclocked CPU and the difference is 6-10c.
Good replies.









What ciarlatano didn't come right out and say is too many review sites are run by people and staff how have no idea what they are doing.

To explain even further:
Any review doing testing in a case without specifically stating they are recording cooler intake air temperature at same time they record CPU temperature and posting delta temp are not comparing how coolers compare to each other. They are comparing only how their test system performs with different coolers. Many reviewers do not define their test criteria and accurately well enough for readers to have any idea how accurate their results are. Without using cooler intake air temperature for baseline their results have a huge margin of error .. and the error increased the more heat test system is producing. As a rule of thumb every degree hotter the air is going into cooler translates into a degree hotter the CPU is .. so if the cooler intake air temperature changes 4c, so does the CPU temperature.









Even if they are testing on an open test station the air temperature is not the same everywhere in the room.

The air around the work bench is warmer because it has several heat sources releasing heat into it .. PSU, CPU, GPU, lighting, body heat, etc. all effect the air temp.

If they are using a case this temperature difference is even greater .. air is often warmed up 10-20c from entering case to going into cooler.

Different coolers and their fan placements and speeds also effect case airflow and change the cooler intake air temperature.
So when we combine more test procedures with bad heat transfer from CPU die to CPU IHS we end up with reviewers giving us test results that mean nothing are worse then no testing at all.


----------



## Sn4k3

Hi guys, I've got Trident Z DDR4 Ram which has 44mm of height and I'm on the fence about whether I should go for the R1 Universal or get the Ultimate (which I like more). I've read it won't fit, but seen pictures of them fitting under it by moving them to the 2nd and 4th slot and having the fan on the cooler a bit raised.

So has anyone installed Trident Z RAM + R1 Ultimate successfully, or am I forced to get the Universal version?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sn4k3*
> 
> Hi guys, I've got Trident Z DDR4 Ram which has 44mm of height and I'm on the fence about whether I should go for the R1 Universal or get the Ultimate (which I like more). I've read it won't fit, but seen pictures of them fitting under it by moving them to the 2nd and 4th slot and having the fan on the cooler a bit raised.
> 
> So has anyone installed Trident Z RAM + R1 Ultimate successfully, or am I forced to get the Universal version?


Short answer is I seriously doubt R1 Ultimate will clear your Trident Z RAM.
But it depends on what the distance from center CPU to near side of RAM is .. and without knowing what motherboard you have we have no idea what that distance is.

The difference between R1 Ultimate and R1 Universal was discussed here a couple days ago.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1461923/cryorig-fan-cooler-club-r1-ult-r1-uni-c1-h5-xf140-xt140/3300_20#post_26118949


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sn4k3*
> 
> Hi guys, I've got Trident Z DDR4 Ram which has 44mm of height and I'm on the fence about whether I should go for the R1 Universal or get the Ultimate (which I like more). I've read it won't fit, but seen pictures of them fitting under it by moving them to the 2nd and 4th slot and having the fan on the cooler a bit raised.
> 
> So has anyone installed Trident Z RAM + R1 Ultimate successfully, or am I forced to get the Universal version?


Just go with the universal and have peace of mind. . . Won't have to worry in the future when upgrading once again as RAM only keeps getting more ridiculous as time goes on. I have the universal but with the black shroud and a 3rd fan and I don't see a damn difference apart from the naming and the front slim fan. Might as well throw a pic of my pc yet again. Ram I use is Corsair Vengeance.
With original white


Black(friend gave em to me)


----------



## Kutalion

+10000 to idiocracy of testing on non soldered cpus.


----------



## Corder

Hello friends! I'm planning on getting a CPU cooler for my Rig in sig.

So I was aiming for Cryo H5 - I like the looks on it besides all. But I've read several reviews about ricking noise Universal version makes. Does Ultimate has this problem? I'm really sensitive to such kind of things especially at night time.

Also thinking of H7. What do you think guys?


----------



## Dimensive




----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corder*
> 
> Hello friends! I'm planning on getting a CPU cooler for my Rig in sig.
> 
> So I was aiming for Cryo H5 - I like the looks on it besides all. But I've read several reviews about ricking noise Universal version makes. Does Ultimate has this problem? I'm really sensitive to such kind of things especially at night time.
> 
> Also thinking of H7. What do you think guys?


No experience with the H5.

I installed the H7s on a two stock clocked i7 4770s and it is super quiet. These are on a prebuilt Dell and are just using BIOS fan control and they had no issues. I was able to control fan speed with speed fan, but since these are in a different location I didn't want the hassle of maintaining speedfan.

I think the 7700K might want a bit more cooler than the H7.

PCpartpicker tells me that the CRYORIG - R1 Universal 76.0 CFM CPU Cooler and NZXT - S340 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case are not compatible, but the R1 is a great cooler.

Do you already have the case? If not perhaps look for a different one.

I have R1 ultimate on my Daily Driver and the XF140 fans never clicked but they ran fast on the Gigabyte MoBo.

I have R1 universals with the XF/XT140 combination on an Asus Hero VII board and the Asus board can spin these down very slow and they are much quieter than the same exact fans connected to my Gigabyte Z97 Gaming 5. ( R1 Universals are in the wish it were mine systems below)

good luck


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corder*
> 
> Hello friends! I'm planning on getting a CPU cooler for my Rig in sig.
> 
> So I was aiming for Cryo H5 - I like the looks on it besides all. But I've read several reviews about ricking noise Universal version makes. Does Ultimate has this problem? I'm really sensitive to such kind of things especially at night time.
> 
> Also thinking of H7. What do you think guys?


H5 does cool a little better and is quieter too. Both are good. I not sure which I would choose .. probably the H5 Ultimate.


----------



## Malik Sajid

Should I wait for the copper versions? How much will it cost compared to the current versions?


----------



## doyll

Found some more images of R5 cooler. This is looking like a real beast!!


----------



## Dimensive

The internal debate in my brain has started! Thinking about that in my gaming rig and the H7 Quad Lumi in my desktop.


----------



## doyll

I started out with single towers, then twin towers with Silver Arrow and NH-D14 many, many years ago. A few years later some of the single towers started cooling as good as twins, and I'm now running more systems with single then twin towers. R5 could very possibly replace my R1


----------



## Dimensive

I have yet to give a twin tower cooler a chance. I've had the Cooler Master 212 EVO, Phanteks PH-TC12DX, CRYORIG M9i, and settled on the CRYORIG H7.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I have yet to give a twin tower cooler a chance. I've had the Cooler Master 212 EVO, Phanteks PH-TC12DX, CRYORIG M9i, and settled on the CRYORIG H7.


Assuming your cooler list is cooling to your need there is no reason to go with a bigger or twin tower cooler. My testing has shown the big top tier single towers cool just as well as their twin tower counterparts. Sometimes one is slightly better than the other but not by much.

As for all copper versus copper / aluminum combinations, Thermalright Ultra / TRUE Copper versus the normal |Ultra eXtreme show almost no benefit to going all copper


----------



## Dimensive

I delidded my 4790K and it hits 85c at 4.4GHz (turbo boost), which is well below the 98c with throttling before. Is there a single tower cooler that's better than the H7? From CRYORIG, of course.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I delidded my 4790K and it hits 85c at 4.4GHz (turbo boost), which is well below the 98c with throttling before. Is there a single tower cooler that's better than the H7? From CRYORIG, of course.


What voltage is your 4790k running at? Regardless I think you should check your case temps as 85c is still pretty high at stock with a H7, you might be having airflow issues.

The H5 Ultimate and upcoming R5 are better single towers though. (they also come with the better mount)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I delidded my 4790K and it hits 85c at 4.4GHz (turbo boost), which is well below the 98c with throttling before. Is there a single tower cooler that's better than the H7? From CRYORIG, of course.


On an Intel Core i5-750 (3.8GHz OC) This is 95w TDP stock @ 3.2GHz
R1 Ultimate full speed 36.6c
Cryorig H5 @ full rpm 41.6c
Cryorig H5 @ 1000rpm 44c
Cryorig H7 @ full rpm 45.6c
http://www.forcca.com/xe/230261

Not a super high heat CPU, but gives you an idea.

I expect new R5 to perform very close to R1

Agree with Gilles3000. If you can, check your cooler intake air temp when system is reaching high temps.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I delidded my 4790K and it hits 85c at 4.4GHz (turbo boost), which is well below the 98c with throttling before. Is there a single tower cooler that's better than the H7? From CRYORIG, of course.


Hits 85C doing what?


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Hits 85C doing what?


AIDA64 stress on CPU, FPU, cache.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> AIDA64 stress on CPU, FPU, cache.


That's a little high. My 4790K at 4.5/1.19V never topped 80C when I tested the H7 using AIDA64 CPU and FPU. Could also be case airflow, your voltage, LLC, etc or a number of other variables.

But, as previously stated, the H5 is more suited to higher heat loads.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

My 4770k at 4.5GHz would only ever hit those kinds of temps when I was running XTU or eight threads of SRBase.... And it isn't even delidded  ... And that was with 1.324V core too. Sure it's an R1 Ultimate I have but still. For a delidded cpu that definitely sounds toasty.


----------



## Dimensive

I hope it's not a bad remount of the IHS. I'll check this weekend.

Edit: BIOS is set to auto...1.290V. I'll be fixing this over the weekend.


----------



## Malik Sajid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I started out with single towers, then twin towers with Silver Arrow and NH-D14 many, many years ago. A few years later some of the single towers started cooling as good as twins, and I'm now running more systems with single then twin towers. R5 could very possibly replace my R1


Is it possible that R5 could beat R1? I mean R5 is single tower and got one heatpipe less! Is there other factors to make R5 better?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik Sajid*
> 
> Is it possible that R5 could beat R1? I mean R5 is single tower and got one heatpipe less! Is there other factors to make R5 better?


Until I get one and test it I won't know which will be better. I'm expecting both to have similar performance .. actually all three; R1 Ultimate R1 Universal and R5


----------



## Scotty99

Anyone in here know if the H5 ultimate has the AM4 brackets included yet?

Second question would be, do AM4 mounts allow the cooler to be oriented in a normal fashion? I ask this because the be quiet AM4 brackets force you to mount the cooler in a way where the fan exhausts air out the top of your case, this is not ideal for my particular setup.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Anyone in here know if the H5 ultimate has the AM4 brackets included yet?
> 
> Second question would be, do AM4 mounts allow the cooler to be oriented in a normal fashion? I ask this because the be quiet AM4 brackets force you to mount the cooler in a way where the fan exhausts air out the top of your case, this is not ideal for my particular setup.


If it's a new H5 I suspect it will have the AM4 mount. Should say on the box. My guess is if it does not have AM4 on AMD mount list it does not have it in the box.







I don't have any AMD systems so can't say about cooler orientation, but I don't remember anyone every saying they could not mount it exhausting back. I know so be quiet! don't like you have heard.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If it's a new H5 I suspect it will have the AM4 mount. Should say on the box. My guess is if it does not have AM4 on AMD mount list it does not have it in the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have any AMD systems so can't say about cooler orientation, but I don't remember anyone every saying they could not mount it exhausting back. I know so be quiet! don't like you have heard.


Ya guess ill just have to order the AM4 kit to be sure (newegg has it for 5 bucks, rather do that than wait for cryorig heh).

And here is what happens with be quiet coolers and AM4:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50Alj8iizz0

12:20 in.


----------



## Sand3853

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Anyone in here know if the H5 ultimate has the AM4 brackets included yet?
> 
> Second question would be, do AM4 mounts allow the cooler to be oriented in a normal fashion? I ask this because the be quiet AM4 brackets force you to mount the cooler in a way where the fan exhausts air out the top of your case, this is not ideal for my particular setup.


Can't say if the AM4 brackets are included in box yet, I can say that the AM4 upgrade kit is just a modified top plate/mounting system of the AM3+ kit. You are able to orient your cooler either with the fans blowing out the back, or with them blowing out the side of the case.

I ended up getting an extra AM4 kit (for H5, R1) when I requested mine from Cryorig. So if anyone needs one and is still stuck waiting, let me know


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Ya guess ill just have to order the AM4 kit to be sure (newegg has it for 5 bucks, rather do that than wait for cryorig heh).
> 
> And here is what happens with be quiet coolers and AM4:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50Alj8iizz0
> 
> 12:20 in.


The be quiet! issue is for all AMD, not just AM4.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sand3853*
> 
> Can't say if the AM4 brackets are included in box yet, I can say that the AM4 upgrade kit is just a modified top plate/mounting system of the AM3+ kit. You are able to orient your cooler either with the fans blowing out the back, or with them blowing out the side of the case.
> 
> I ended up getting an extra AM4 kit (for H5, R1) when I requested mine from Cryorig. So if anyone needs one and is still stuck waiting, let me know


Kind of you to offer it to others. Hopefully it will be of use to someone.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

hey all,

Im already have a Cryorig R1 Ultimate for cooler my AM4 Ryzen Procie.
Yep, they not giving AM4 bracket out of a box when we buy this cooler (incluidng H5, H7 and Universal). But you can post a request to order an AM4 bracket from their website http://www.cryorig.com/getam4.php , they will sending you an AM4 bracket for free with delivery time 3-14 days depend in which country you live.
Im already have an AM4 bracket now for R1 Ultimate, and im really happy how cool down temperature my Ryzen 1700 CPU now, and this Beefy can be head to head with my other AIO Cooler Corsair H100i GTX with performance mode setting.

my advice, go grab Cryorig R1 Ultimate if you want overclock ryzen into 3.9-4 Ghz above your stock speed ryzen...you wont regret using this cooler


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The be quiet! issue is for all AMD, not just AM4.
> Kind of you to offer it to others. Hopefully it will be of use to someone.


guys, pls dont modify AM3+ cryorig to used with AM4..the bracket have different nut to stand your Cooler on your backplate motherboard...better you request AM4 bracket from their website, free of all charge incl free of delivery cost too...what you need is to send of proof of charge of payment from you buying Cryorig products (sending photo your product already buy, motherboard AM4, and registered your cryorig product on cryo website ASAP)...after they approved your request, they will send AM4 to you...just be patience is the key to get this AM4 bracket


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> hey all,
> 
> Im already have a Cryorig R1 Ultimate for cooler my AM4 Ryzen Procie.
> Yep, they not giving AM4 bracket out of a box when we buy this cooler (incluidng H5, H7 and Universal). But you can post a request to order an AM4 bracket from their website http://www.cryorig.com/getam4.php , they will sending you an AM4 bracket for free with delivery time 3-14 days depend in which country you live.
> Im already have an AM4 bracket now for R1 Ultimate, and im really happy how cool down temperature my Ryzen 1700 CPU now, and this Beefy can be head to head with my other AIO Cooler Corsair H100i GTX with performance mode setting.
> 
> my advice, go grab Cryorig R1 Ultimate if you want overclock ryzen into 3.9-4 Ghz above your stock speed ryzen...you wont regret using this cooler


Coolers manufactured after AM4 release come with AM4 compatible mounts. Coolers manufactured before AM4 release do not.

Just out of curiosity, how does R1 sound level compare to H100i GTX with performance mode setting?
(I'm pretty sure what the answer is, but won't say until you answer)


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Coolers manufactured after AM4 release come with AM4 compatible mounts. Coolers manufactured before AM4 release do not.
> 
> Just out of curiosity, how does R1 sound level compare to H100i GTX with performance mode setting?
> (I'm pretty sure what the answer is, but won't say until you answer)


like night and day lol







!, with R1 you feel like play in the midnight..silent not really crowded with car noise...H100i you feel like in the middle of factory, noisy in everywhere lol
I think that because R1 bundling their two fans with lower rpm than H100i if push with the same performance setting. Thats why H100i have sound very noisy, and thats not yet include with pump throttling so annoying too if push into performance mode.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> like night and day lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !, with R1 you feel like play in the midnight..silent not really crowded with car noise...H100i you feel like in the middle of factory, noisy in everywhere lol
> I think that because R1 bundling their two fans with lower rpm than H100i if push with the same performance setting. Thats why H100i have sound very noisy, and thats not yet include with pump throttling so annoying too if push into performance mode.


It's not just the difference in fan speed creating noise that makes R1 so superior to H110I GTX. It's the fact the R1 has way more cooling ability than the H100i hass, .. so R1 doesn't need the fans screaming at such high speed tyring to push air through H100i aluminum radiator to keep things cool. Pump just adds to the annoyances of H100i .. and other CLCs

CLC users almost all think their CLCs are so much better cooling and not loud .. until they use to top tier air cooler like R1


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> It's not just the difference in fan speed creating noise that makes R1 so superior to H110I GTX. It's the fact the R1 has way more cooling ability than the H100i hass, .. so R1 doesn't need the fans screaming at such high speed tyring to push air through H100i aluminum radiator to keep things cool. Pump just adds to the annoyances of H100i .. and other CLCs
> 
> CLC users almost all think their CLCs are so much better cooling and not loud .. until they use to top tier air cooler like R1


I'll playfully say something silly here...

Aio/clc coolers do have one advantage though,at least in benching scenarios.... The five gallon bucket of ice water trick works a lot better with a radiator (that has its fans removed) than an air cooler does thanks to those short hoses ^_^


----------



## Scotty99

Only reason id want an AIO is looks, which as time goes on i seem to care more about lol.

Air coolers are superior for many reasons, but covering up half the motherboard which you spent good money on kinda sucks lol.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I'll playfully say something silly here...
> 
> Aio/clc coolers do have one advantage though,at least in benching scenarios.... The five gallon bucket of ice water trick works a lot better with a radiator (that has its fans removed) than an air cooler does thanks to those short hoses ^_^


Very true. Kind of like cooler reviewers using room temperature when testing in a case with AIO/CLCs set as intake .. so CLC is using air 3-10c cooler than air coolers .. meaning CPU runs 3-10c cooler under CLC than on air. Run them on same temperature air as CLC and air coolers score as good as CLC, usually much better at same noise levels below 35-40dB.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Only reason id want an AIO is looks, which as time goes on i seem to care more about lol.
> 
> Air coolers are superior for many reasons, but covering up half the motherboard which you spent good money on kinda sucks lol.


Is you case all clear panels? Because if it's not it's blocking the view of our motherboard and things too.
















I can kinda understand wanting to see motherboard, but the way CLC hoses snake around inside of a case over motherboard is uglier to me than looking at an air cooler on motherboard. And that does not even take into account how much louder CLCs are than air coolers.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

I think the real competitor for going head to head fighting with R1 Ultimate is...Thermalright le Grand Macho RT (not Noctua NH-D15, sorry austrian product, you're a little bit lose now lol







).
Im really excited with so many good and positive respond with that R1 opponent, maybe someone can proof that so many reviewer out there. If not, R1 still the best for competition against AIO lol


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Guys,

does anyone you know, what MTBF from XF140 fans Cryorig ?? i didnt find in anywhere clear information from that XF140, including in Cryorig Website, they didnt explain exact information with that fan.
Im really curious with that HPLN bearing fan, but idk if that type fan are sleeve, ball or fluid/ hydro bearing type

please if you already know with that fan info, share to us pls


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> Guys,
> 
> does anyone you know, what MTBF from XF140 fans Cryorig ?? i didnt find in anywhere clear information from that XF140, including in Cryorig Website, they didnt explain exact information with that fan.
> Im really curious with that HPLN bearing fan, but idk if that type fan are sleeve, ball or fluid/ hydro bearing type
> 
> please if you already know with that fan info, share to us pls


MTBF ratings are rather useless to be honest. Said ratings are quoted assuming "optimal" conditions at a certain temperature (in most cases 25*C) Inside an average PC case you will have things like dust, moisture in some situations, abrupt temperature changes, etc. All that will reduce drastically the lifespan of a fan. I have some crappy six year old CM sleeve bearing fans that came with my HAF that still work without strange noises. I have had expensive $25+ fans go bad in a couple of months.
As for the bearing question, they are sleeve. The only bearing types out there are ball, sleeve, and magnetic. All those other bearings you hear about are usually just tweaked sleeve bearings with fancy marketing names.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> Guys,
> 
> does anyone you know, what MTBF from XF140 fans Cryorig ?? i didnt find in anywhere clear information from that XF140, including in Cryorig Website, they didnt explain exact information with that fan.
> Im really curious with that HPLN bearing fan, but idk if that type fan are sleeve, ball or fluid/ hydro bearing type
> 
> please if you already know with that fan info, share to us pls


The MTBF is an estimated life and as many fans have never actually been tested to see how long they will run before their bearing go bad its only an educated guess.
All "fluid" bearings are variations of sleeve bushing bearings. Some use spiral grooving, so use vertical grooving, some have something else, but the grooving is only to help flow oil / keep a "fluid" (oil) layer between shaft and bearing sleeve .. because is there is no "fluid" (oil) layer between shaft and bearing the bearing fails to function properly. Good sleeve bearings will last longer than cheap ball bearings .. but good ball bearings will last a little longer than good sleeve bearings, Add higher temps into the mix and ball bearings last longer, but we don't havce higher heat to deal with. Quality of build is way more important than what fancy name is on the bearing.

Edit: Old Fast Finger Melcar beat me to it.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The MTBF is an estimated life and as many fans have never actually been tested to see how long they will run before their bearing go bad its only an educated guess.
> All "fluid" bearings are variations of sleeve bushing bearings. Some use spiral grooving, so use vertical grooving, some have something else, but the grooving is only to help flow oil / keep a "fluid" (oil) layer between shaft and bearing sleeve .. because is there is no "fluid" (oil) layer between shaft and bearing the bearing fails to function properly. Good sleeve bearings will last longer than cheap ball bearings .. but good ball bearings will last a little longer than good sleeve bearings, Add higher temps into the mix and ball bearings last longer, but we don't havce higher heat to deal with. Quality of build is way more important than what fancy name is on the bearing.
> 
> Edit: Old Fast Finger Melcar beat me to it.


thats why Cryorig never put MTBF for their products, just use their product as long as you can until their broken or stop working properly itself, or maybe you already throw their product before that product already dead into thrash, thats because your already boring or feel that product already obselete someday! lol..
Thanks for clear info, Doyll...at least im really know a little about what mechanical inside that fan


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> MTBF ratings are rather useless to be honest. Said ratings are quoted assuming "optimal" conditions at a certain temperature (in most cases 25*C) Inside an average PC case you will have things like dust, moisture in some situations, abrupt temperature changes, etc. All that will reduce drastically the lifespan of a fan. I have some crappy six year old CM sleeve bearing fans that came with my HAF that still work without strange noises. I have had expensive $25+ fans go bad in a couple of months.
> As for the bearing question, they are sleeve. The only bearing types out there are ball, sleeve, and magnetic. All those other bearings you hear about are usually just tweaked sleeve bearings with fancy marketing names.


Agree Melcar and thanks for explanation








yep, i think so if HPLN is no more than than just a fancy marketing skin haha


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> thats why Cryorig never put MTBF for their products, just use their product as long as you can until their broken or stop working properly itself, or maybe you already throw their product before that product already dead into thrash, thats because your already boring or feel that product already obselete someday! lol..
> Thanks for clear info, Doyll...at least im really know a little about what mechanical inside that fan


Cryorig give a 3 year warranty on their fans and coolers. Obviously both will last longer than 3 years. I've had my H5 running with stock fan for at least that long, maybe longer. I can't remember when it was first released, and I had one on or before release date.


----------



## Sand3853

Hey, figured I'd share a beauty shot of my R1.. got it cooling an R7-1700 in a Fractal Design Define C. With the R7 sitting at 3.9ghz @1.375v the chip max's out at 53C... Coming from a custom loop I'm pretty impressed (granted these chips don't get terribly hot as is)... Anyways, absolutely love Cryorig coolers, have become my go to air cooler for the past few years.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Scotty99

Wait am i high? I thought only the R1 universal came in white?

That definitely isnt the universal, unless you ordered the full size fan seperate?

Looks good btw, still havent decided between R1 and H5.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Wait am i high? I thought only the R1 universal came in white?
> 
> That definitely isnt the universal, unless you ordered the full size fan seperate?
> 
> Looks good btw, still havent decided between R1 and H5.


Color Covers for the R1... http://www.cryorig.com/customod_r1.php


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sand3853*
> 
> Hey, figured I'd share a beauty shot of my R1.. got it cooling an R7-1700 in a Fractal Design Define C. With the R7 sitting at 3.9ghz @1.375v the chip max's out at 53C... Coming from a custom loop I'm pretty impressed (granted these chips don't get terribly hot as is)... Anyways, absolutely love Cryorig coolers, have become my go to air cooler for the past few years.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very nice with that White Frame Color








I have the yellow one, beside black frame that incl with R1 bundling of course.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Wait am i high? I thought only the R1 universal came in white?
> 
> That definitely isnt the universal, unless you ordered the full size fan seperate?
> 
> Looks good btw, still havent decided between R1 and H5.


buy R1, you wont regret with that big toys! haha (Im already play with AIO Corsair,LEPA EXllusion 240 and CM Liquid Pro280..and dont want looking back again with AIO! lol)
If you have RAM with tall heatsink...grab R1 universal, dont take R1 Ultimate...eventhough you can change fan position up and down on front heatsink, but you will sacrifice R1 cooler performance.


----------



## Sand3853

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> Color Covers for the R1... http://www.cryorig.com/customod_r1.php


It is the R1 Universal, I swapped the slim fan with the full sized off my H5 as this system doesn't have Ram issues and the other does. As others have said though, you can get colored plates for it as well. I also have a green set.


----------



## doyll

I put dual 125m thick fans on my R1 Universal too.







I figured it was more future proof than Ultimvate.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I put dual 125m thick fans on my R1 Universal too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I figured it was more future proof than Ultimvate.


did you already tried using Noctua Fans for replacing with R1 default fan xf140
http://noctua.at/en/nf-a14-industrialppc-3000-pwm

idk, based on that specification...Airflow and Static Pressure are really huge compared with xf140
(eventhough im realised that higher rpm will make noise more loud too than lower rpm )


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> did you already tried using Noctua Fans for replacing with R1 default fan xf140
> http://noctua.at/en/nf-a14-industrialppc-3000-pwm
> 
> idk, based on that specification...Airflow and Static Pressure are really huge compared with xf140
> (eventhough im realised that higher rpm will make noise more loud too than lower rpm )


Cooling will be nearly equivalent at like speeds. The Noctuas would only offer more performance when pushed beyond the speeds the XF140 are capable of, and who wants to be in the same room with that noise? And if you are are going to try to go that route, the TY-143 is a far nicer sounding fan than the Noctua. Plus the iPPC fans may be *the* most irritating sounding fans at low speeds around.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> did you already tried using Noctua Fans for replacing with R1 default fan xf140
> http://noctua.at/en/nf-a14-industrialppc-3000-pwm
> 
> idk, based on that specification...Airflow and Static Pressure are really huge compared with xf140
> (eventhough im realised that higher rpm will make noise more loud too than lower rpm )


I have not used the industrial fans, but have used TY-147 / TY-147A and TY-143 on R1. They have a smoother sound that i like, but didn't change cooling ability at similar rpm / noise levels .. maybe a little quieter, but I'm not sure because the TY series fans sound better to my ears. I've heard the industrials are not quiet unless using the 3000rpm 24 volt ones on 12v supply like we have in our computers. I guess it depends on prices in your part of our world.









Edit: What caiarlatano said.


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> did you already tried using Noctua Fans for replacing with R1 default fan xf140
> http://noctua.at/en/nf-a14-industrialppc-3000-pwm
> 
> idk, based on that specification...Airflow and Static Pressure are really huge compared with xf140
> (eventhough im realised that higher rpm will make noise more loud too than lower rpm )


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Cooling will be nearly equivalent at like speeds. The Noctuas would only offer more performance when pushed beyond the speeds the XF140 are capable of, and who wants to be in the same room with that noise? And if you are are going to try to go that route, the TY-143 is a far nicer sounding fan than the Noctua. Plus the iPPC fans may be *the* most irritating sounding fans at low speeds around.


And the gains may not be worth it. On my nh-d15 a pair of ty-143s net an average of 5*C less than the stock fans at full speeds when under full load. The noise of the tys when they reach full rpm is a lot higher than the nf-a15s. I would imagine the Cryorig coolers would respond in a similar fashion.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> And the gains may not be worth it. On my nh-d15 a pair of ty-143s net an average of 5*C less than the stock fans at full speeds when under full load. The noise of the tys when they reach full rpm is a lot higher than the nf-a15s. I would imagine the Cryorig coolers would respond in a similar fashion.


so thats mean XF140 still better than those fans ??
cool, i think i will hold this stock R1 fan as long as until this broken by it self


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> so thats mean XF140 still better than those fans ??
> cool, i think i will hold this stock R1 fan as long as until this broken by it self


Not so much as "better" but more like of similar performance at the same speeds.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

very interesting from last Computex 2017, bcoz cryorig booth giving some sneak peek with their future product:

http://www.cryorig.com/news.php?id=74




if that product will really exist someday, and can giving future proof from new copper base and some R1 fins related with lower temperature CPU changes, i will grab it!















(i hope those not just an idea only lol )


----------



## khemist

Yeah, i love the look of that.

If i go back to air cooling i will be going with the universal in copper.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> And the gains may not be worth it. On my nh-d15 a pair of ty-143s net an average of 5*C less than the stock fans at full speeds when under full load. The noise of the tys when they reach full rpm is a lot higher than the nf-a15s. I would imagine the Cryorig coolers would respond in a similar fashion.


Did you monitor cooler intake air temp when testing TY-143s?
Also I think the gains show up more at extreme heat / overclocking levels. Also, using extreme fans like TY-143 fans means case needs to flow almost twice as much air to keep the cooler intake air temp at same level as with stock fans.


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Did you monitor cooler intake air temp when testing TY-143s?
> Also I think the gains show up more at extreme heat / overclocking levels. Also, using extreme fans like TY-143 fans means case needs to flow almost twice as much air to keep the cooler intake air temp at same level as with stock fans.


Pushing 1.48V on my FX @ 4.7 (got a power hog). Yeah, been thinking the TY-143s simple are air starved. Have three PH-F140MPs as intakes right now. Guess I would need something like 2000rpm fans to keep those TYs feed enough air, but I don't want such a noisy system.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> Pushing 1.48V on my FX @ 4.7 (got a power hog). Yeah, been thinking the TY-143s simple are air starved. Have three PH-F140MPs as intakes right now. Guess I would need something like 2000rpm fans to keep those TYs feed enough air, but I don't want such a noisy system.


At a guess 3x F140MP at full speed should supply enough air, but without actually knowing what the cooler intake air temp is when stressing / working CPU hard I hesitate to say it is. A simple low cost way to monitor airflow temp in front of cooler is a wire lead terrarium / aquarium thermometer or a simple wire lead indoor/outdoor thermometer.
Here is what I use and how I set it up.

A cheap indoor/outdoor thermometer with a piece of insulated wire and a plastic clothspin works great.
Made up with floral wire and tape. We don't want anything to short out with metal.










Clip and position sensor where I want to check the temp. Make it easy to see what the air temp going into components actually is relative to room temp.








Optimum cooling is when air temps going into coolers only being 2-3c warmer than room.. 5c or less is good.
You have probably seen it before.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> At a guess 3x F140MP at full speed should supply enough air, but without actually knowing what the cooler intake air temp is when stressing / working CPU hard I hesitate to say it is. A simple low cost way to monitor airflow temp in front of cooler is a wire lead terrarium / aquarium thermometer or a simple wire lead indoor/outdoor thermometer.
> Here is what I use and how I set it up.
> 
> A cheap indoor/outdoor thermometer with a piece of insulated wire and a plastic clothspin works great.
> Made up with floral wire and tape. We don't want anything to short out with metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clip and position sensor where I want to check the temp. Make it easy to see what the air temp going into components actually is relative to room temp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optimum cooling is when air temps going into coolers only being 2-3c warmer than room.. 5c or less is good.
> You have probably seen it before.


Doyll,
based on your experience, which better between Cryorig-R1 vs Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT for handling CPU with heavy overclocking (to handle hot temperature that excess from CPU OC) ??


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

im also Interest with Le Grand Macho Rt, bcoz this product said in their website can handle TDP 320watt, meanwhile Cryorig R1 only 250watt+ TDP...idk this is just as marketing only or this is the technical truth

hope someone can explain that with experience using those two products


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> name="lastraiyzen99X2" url="/t/1461923/cryorig-fan-cooler-club-r1-ult-r1-uni-c1-h5-xf140-xt140/3380_20#post_26170955"]
> Doyll,
> based on your experience, which better between Cryorig-R1 vs Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT for handling CPU with heavy overclocking (to handle hot temperature that excess from CPU OC) ??[/quote
> My experiences with both is similar cooling with Le Grand Macho fan being quieter. The XF140 & XT140 are not as quiet as TY-14x series fans are. The most I've pushed at these coolers is i7 920 @ 4.3Ghz; 1.225v. Maybe if I OC'ed it farther LGM might show lower temps, but that is only guessing. I like the looks of R1 better.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> name="lastraiyzen99X2" url="/t/1461923/cryorig-fan-cooler-club-r1-ult-r1-uni-c1-h5-xf140-xt140/3380_20#post_26170955"]
> Doyll,
> based on your experience, which better between Cryorig-R1 vs Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT for handling CPU with heavy overclocking (to handle hot temperature that excess from CPU OC) ??[/quote
> My experiences with both is similar cooling with Le Grand Macho fan being quieter. The XF140 & XT140 are not as quiet as TY-14x series fans are. The most I've pushed at these coolers is i7 920 @ 4.3Ghz; 1.225v. Maybe if I OC'ed it farther LGM might show lower temps, but that is only guessing. I like the looks of R1 better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha, oh like that ?? ok, got it!...if so, i will cancel to try GLM now if R1 still better, esp for R1 fashion haha
Click to expand...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> haha, oh like that ?? ok, got it!...if so, i will cancel to try GLM now if R1 still better, esp for R1 fashion haha


Don't do that unless it's what you want. The LGM is a quieter cooler. I don't look at my cooler but rarely, but I can hear them whenever system is working .. well if system is working very hard..


----------



## jopy

Anyone tried a corsair ml120 led on their h5 any performance difference?
Was thinking of getting one for the led


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> Anyone tried a corsair ml120 led on their h5 any performance difference?
> Was thinking of getting one for the led


If LED is that important to you, why not wait for new H7 Quad Lumi cooler? Then you could have LEDs in cooler and fans.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If LED is that important to you, why not wait for new H7 Quad Lumi cooler? Then you could have LEDs in cooler and fans.


Im thinkin about this one too, it would look tiny in my H440 tho lol.

BTW its on preorder at newegg now:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UF53D6676&cm_re=cryorig-_-9SIA4UF53D6676-_-Product


----------



## doyll

A little. I had H7 in my Enthoo Evolv ATX for awhile. It's 235 mm x 495 mm x 510 mm (W x H x D and your H440 is 220mm x 513mm x 480mm, so about the same size. Oh yeah! I have the HDD cages removed too.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If LED is that important to you, why not wait for new H7 Quad Lumi cooler? Then you could have LEDs in cooler and fans.


just needs white haha, which the lumi stock fan is going to be white led too.
only the bottom and logo are rgb stuff, which im not really into.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> just needs white haha, which the lumi stock fan is going to be white led too.
> only the bottom and logo are rgb stuff, which im not really into.


can't wait for waiting Quad Lumi H7, very attractive RGB cooler beside more TDP 20 Watt+ from H7 old















http://www.cryorig.com/h7ql.php (160watt TDP)
http://www.cryorig.com/h7_us.php (old H7, 140w TDP)


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> can't wait for waiting Quad Lumi H7, very attractive RGB cooler beside more TDP 20 Watt+ from H7 old
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.cryorig.com/h7ql.php (160watt TDP)
> http://www.cryorig.com/h7_us.php (old H7, 140w TDP)


ooo didnt notice the changes, that tickle my fancy now, if its more efficient in cooling.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> ooo didnt notice the changes, that tickle my fancy now, if its more efficient in cooling.


yep, this is the different H7-QL vs H7 (beside color RGB too)

H7-QL (has 4 heatpipe)


H7-old (only 3heatpipe)


i cant wait to see this reviewer b4 deciding to buy quadlumi or not for my old amd-fx 8350


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> ooo didnt notice the changes, that tickle my fancy now, if its more efficient in cooling.


H7 Quad Lumi has 4 heatpips instead of 3 which give it 15% better cooling.


----------



## doyll

Here is detailed drawings of each


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> H7 Quad Lumi has 4 heatpips instead of 3 which give it 15% better cooling.


So you get the added cooling performance of RGB LEDs, and an extra heatpipe to boot?


----------



## jopy

So in theory i mostly likely get the same temp like my current h5 ?


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> So you get the added cooling performance of RGB LEDs, and an extra heatpipe to boot?


The extra heatpipe was added to offset the extra heat from the RGB LEDS







.

Good to see they did not just slap on LEDS! on the thing and sold it as new, like certain other companies tend to do.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> So in theory i mostly likely get the same temp like my current h5 ?


H5 with 120mm fan will probably perform siimilar to H7 Quad Lumi. Really it's hard to say without actually testing both . I have never tested H5 with a 120mm fan.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> The extra heatpipe was added to offset the extra heat from the RGB LEDS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Good to see they did not just slap on LEDS! on the thing and sold it as new, like certain other companies tend to do.


I think the added pipe is a god move too, even if it is only 15% increase.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> just needs white haha, which the lumi stock fan is going to be white led too.
> only the bottom and logo are rgb stuff, which im not really into.


If white LED's is what you're into, there's the Jonsbo CR-201 White too, no idea how well it performs, but it looks really nice, it even has tempered glass, which is all the rage these days.


----------



## Melcar

Oh wow, tempered glass AND leds.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> If white LED's is what you're into, there's the Jonsbo CR-201 White too, no idea how well it performs, but it looks really nice, it even has tempered glass, which is all the rage these days.


i heard they are oem for fractal.
not sure how many range of products does jonsbo oem for them though.


----------



## mAs81

Looks really nice tho...


----------



## jopy

tried 5mins of aida on h5 universe,
stock fan vs cougar vortex pwm 120mm,
stock fan is 2 degree cooler.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> So in theory i mostly likely get the same temp like my current h5 ?


No,
I think not easy for H7-Quadlumi (120 mm fan) to defeat H5 (140 mm fan), fan sizing not match between those two IMHO


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> So you get the added cooling performance of RGB LEDs, and an extra heatpipe to boot?


Finally something where people can say rgb added something other than colour!


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

does anyone of you that using R1 Ultimate, so what's min idle temperature from R1 ?? why im always stand on 28-29 degreeC when idle ? cannot more lower temperature with R1 ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> tried 5mins of aida on h5 universe,
> stock fan vs cougar vortex pwm 120mm,
> stock fan is 2 degree cooler.


The H5 (180w TDP) can handle more heat than H7 (160w TDP). But unless you are pushing extreme amounts of heat into cooler from a big overclock / voltage increase you won't see much if any difference in performance.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> does anyone of you that using R1 Ultimate, so what's min idle temperature from R1 ?? why im always stand on 28-29 degreeC when idle ? cannot more lower temperature with R1 ?


Idle temp depends on many things. What CPU is being used, is it overclocked, is it setup in Bios to run on lower voltage when not working, what is air temp going into cooler, etc. All of my systems use settings that lower voltge at low / idle load and my cooler intake air is always 0c to a maximum of 3c above room ambient at any time and my idle temps are 2-4c above room temp.


----------



## doyll

dbl post


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> does anyone of you that using R1 Ultimate, so what's min idle temperature from R1 ?? why im always stand on 28-29 degreeC when idle ? cannot more lower temperature with R1 ?


I have an R1 Ultimate, but pretty much never pay attention to idle temps. I rarely go over 62-65C loaded, unless I'm running eight cores of SRBase, at which points temps are usually around 72C due to it being a harsher load on my 4770k's cores. Room is usually 22-25C,although actual temp going into my cooler I don't know since usually when my cores are loaded I'm paying more attention to whatever game I'm playing ^_^;;;


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I have an R1 Ultimate, but pretty much never pay attention to idle temps. I rarely go over 62-65C loaded, unless I'm running eight cores of SRBase, at which points temps are usually around 72C due to it being a harsher load on my 4770k's cores. Room is usually 22-25C,although actual temp going into my cooler I don't know since usually when my cores are loaded I'm paying more attention to whatever game I'm playing ^_^;;;


Done,
CPU idle already lower again now after downclock RAM OC from 3400mhz into 2993mhz...i think this because IMC on CPU Ryzen 1700 going hotter when ram pushing more higher

Thanks


----------



## Malik Sajid

Hay, guys! Finally I got the R1 \o/ \o/, however this the first time for me to deal with an aftermarket cooler so I have some newbie questions!
-How can I wipe off the old thermal paste, is there any alternative to the isopropyl as I can't find it in my city just ethanol/ ethyl alcohol (high concentration), would that work?
-What is the optimum technique to apply the paste on a Quad-core processor with that cooler?


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik Sajid*
> 
> Hay, guys! Finally I got the R1 \o/ \o/, however this the first time for me to deal with an aftermarket cooler so I have some newbie questions!
> -How can I wipe off the old thermal paste, is there any alternative to the isopropyl as I can't find it in my city just ethanol/ ethyl alcohol (high concentration), would that work?
> -What is the optimum technique to apply the paste on a Quad-core processor with that cooler?


Try a pharmacy for alcohol antiseptic wipes in the first aid section.

I use a small pea size drop of paste on the re apply.

Welcome to the club.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> Try a pharmacy for alcohol antiseptic wipes in the first aid section.
> 
> I use a small pea size drop of paste on the re apply.
> 
> Welcome to the club.


using cheap alcohol 70% that you usually found at general drug store on your country, done...just wipe out your thermal paste residue with tissue/ soft cotton with bring small amount alcohol

done done hehe


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik Sajid*
> 
> Hay, guys! Finally I got the R1 \o/ \o/, however this the first time for me to deal with an aftermarket cooler so I have some newbie questions!
> -How can I wipe off the old thermal paste, is there any alternative to the isopropyl as I can't find it in my city just ethanol/ ethyl alcohol (high concentration), would that work?
> -What is the optimum technique to apply the paste on a Quad-core processor with that cooler?


apply a new thermal paste, just bring like this pic below on your cpu chip


and let this thermal spread itself with force from heatsink on it!

if not effective too, just bring all from one syringe on your chip,














(joking if this one







)


----------



## Malik Sajid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> Try a pharmacy for alcohol antiseptic wipes in the first aid section.
> 
> I use a small pea size drop of paste on the re apply.
> 
> Welcome to the club.


Thanks, bro! There's included pads like what you are referring to, but it's 70% so is it okay to clean an old paste with that concentration?


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik Sajid*
> 
> Thanks, bro! There's included pads like what you are referring to, but it's 70% so is it okay to clean an old paste with that concentration?


enough, im already used that since than a few years ago
(never believe with reviewer said out there with 90% alcohol or more...theirs not more than as marketing business only! haha)


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quandlumi IndaHouse....pls come to me, baby!


----------



## Malik Sajid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> apply a new thermal paste, just bring like this pic below on your cpu chip
> 
> 
> and let this thermal spread itself with force from heatsink on it!
> 
> if not effective too, just bring all from one syringe on your chip,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (joking if this one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Thanks! Don't worry if that wouldn't be enough I will download some more


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik Sajid*
> 
> Hay, guys! Finally I got the R1 \o/ \o/, however this the first time for me to deal with an aftermarket cooler so I have some newbie questions!
> -How can I wipe off the old thermal paste, is there any alternative to the isopropyl as I can't find it in my city just ethanol/ ethyl alcohol (high concentration), would that work?
> -What is the optimum technique to apply the paste on a Quad-core processor with that cooler?


Paper towel and alcohol are what I use. I cut the paper towel into small squares about 2" x 2" and wipe old TIM off of cooler base and CPU IHS .. yes, clean the old cooler base now before the TIM starts jumping to other things, because TIM is like gremlin that get water, it has an crazy ability to get onto things everywhere.







Wipe with square of paper towel and put in thrash. Don't worry about wasting some, one ripped off square of paper towel makes a big stack of 2" squares. Alcohol is pure isopropyl alcohol (99.9% pure). You can use other things but this is the best. Dampen a part of paper towel square and wipe again to get the last bit off.

Here is a guide to TIM use and application.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22335323


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> using cheap alcohol 70% that you usually found at general drug store on your country, done...just wipe out your thermal paste residue with tissue/ soft cotton with bring small amount alcohol
> 
> done done hehe


There are some countries where you cannot buy rubbing alcohol in a drug store, which is why I suggested antiseptic wipes that have alcohol in them.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> There are some countries where you cannot buy rubbing alcohol in a drug store, which is why I suggested antiseptic wipes that have alcohol in them.


70% alcohol so far so good for me, my old amd FX 8350 still works better since last 4-5 years im clean all thermal paste with 70%alcohol...never use 99% pure isoprophyl alcohol, but 8530 still works like a charm til now









yes @Dan-H, antiseptic wipe is also good for wipe out all thermal paste residue if you dont have or a little hard found rubbing alcohol in some countries


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> 70% alcohol so far so good for me, my old amd FX 8350 still works better since last 4-5 years im clean all thermal paste with 70%alcohol...never use 99% pure isoprophyl alcohol, but 8530 still works like a charm til now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yes @Dan-H, antiseptic wipe is also good for wipe out all thermal paste residue if you dont have or a little hard found rubbing alcohol in some countries


70% works okay. I just prefer to have no oil or anything else left on the CPU IHS or cooler base. isoprophyl alcohol is available in most countries but may not be as easy to find. Here in UK for example it is not available at pharmacy/drugstore, but is available on ebay.


----------



## Dan-H

What is the suggested maintenance interval to remove, and re-paste a cooler like an R1 Ultimate?

I've noticed my fans speeds are kicking up a little especially the CPU fans, even though the basic workload on the system is about the same.

I suppose it could be the fan curves were set in winter when the ambient room temp was 68F (20C ). Now the room is usually around 78F (25C) and the curves might be a bit aggressive to keep the system nearly silent.

Should this be an annual maintenance thing? Other than monthly or so fine-dust cleaning and dust filter maintenance I've not done anything with the CPU cooler or the GPU cooler.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> What is the suggested maintenance interval to remove, and re-paste a cooler like an R1 Ultimate?
> 
> I've noticed my fans speeds are kicking up a little especially the CPU fans, even though the basic workload on the system is about the same.
> 
> I suppose it could be the fan curves were set in winter when the ambient room temp was 68F (20C ). Now the room is usually around 78F (25C) and the curves might be a bit aggressive to keep the system nearly silent.
> 
> Should this be an annual maintenance thing? Other than monthly or so fine-dust cleaning and dust filter maintenance I've not done anything with the CPU cooler or the GPU cooler.


You answered your own question about fans spinning up sooner now then 6 months ago.







Basically every degree warmer the air going into cooler is tranlates to a degree warmer CPU is at same fan speed. so fans are spinning up because the warmer air not than in winter needs to flow faster through the cooler to keep the CPU temp close to what it was in winter .. at a guess your CPU is probably running slightly warmer too, but that is to be expected.

But ot the TIM question, it's good for at least a couple of years. I've ran several systems more than 3 years on original cooler mounting / TIM seating. Dust and lint on fins and on fan impellers needs to be cleaned periodically, but unless you are pushing extreme heat at the TIM it will last years no problems.


----------



## Dan-H

@doyll,







I don't need any more on my to-do list right now.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> @doyll,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't need any more on my to-do list right now.


Make sure you keep your case filters clean and when you get time check and clean fans and cooler fins if needed. I use a compressor, but a artists' paint brush and vacuum cleaner work too.


----------



## Shneiky

Any news on Cryorig prepping up R1 for Threadripper? Apparently Noctua has already begun. And where the hell is Z1... Still lost in Bermuda triangle while shipping with Air Fort One ?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> Any news on Cryorig prepping up R1 for Threadripper? Apparently Noctua has already begun. And where the hell is Z1... Still lost in Bermuda triangle while shipping with Air Fort One ?


I would imagine that Z1 suffers the fate of the other circular coolers - too expensive to produce, underperforming for the cost, and a total nightmare to install. For all the good intentions, I don't see Cryorig releasing something with those attributes.


----------



## khemist

Picked up a R1 universal.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picked up a R1 universal.


And a set of black shrouds too?


----------



## khemist

Yeah, bought separately.


----------



## HamBown81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> enough, im already used that since than a few years ago
> (never believe with reviewer said out there with 90% alcohol or more...theirs not more than as marketing business only! haha)


The point of using 90% is that it has a lower water content. It dries faster, with less residue and has a lower risk of leaving moisture behind in tight spaces. It's not that it is "better" at physically removing TIM


----------



## AlphaC

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UF53D6676

Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi pricing has me doubting them ,it's $60 USD on Newegg for a 160W TDP rated cooler...

Would rather get a decent cooler with a white or black fan and use the Phanteks Halos RGB rings if I was into RGB (I'm not)


----------



## Scotty99

Ya i thought about that cooler for about 1 second, then picked up a be quiet dark rock pro 3 for 74.90 shipped.

Now just waiting for the backplate to come in lol.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UF53D6676
> 
> Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi pricing has me doubting them ,it's $60 USD on Newegg for a 160W TDP rated cooler...
> 
> Would rather get a decent cooler with a white or black fan and use the Phanteks Halos RGB rings if I was into RGB (I'm not)


yes, expensive, not worth
better grab this one, TDP support 250w+









https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835214070


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> yes, expensive, not worth
> better grab this one, TDP support 250w+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835214070


That's what I said a while back. At $60 for an h7 with fancy LEDs is not worth it. The perfect price for that thing would of been $45. Those LEDs wont make my cpu run a few degrees cooler, I would save myself a few bucks and get me an H5 Ultimate.


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> That's what I said a while back. At $60 for an h7 with fancy LEDs is not worth it. The perfect price for that thing would of been $45. Those LEDs wont make my cpu run a few degrees cooler, I would save myself a few bucks and get me an H5 Ultimate.


To be fair the quad lumi adds a heatpipe.

However the heatpipe isn't worth the ~$30 increase in price and neither does the LED fan.

I bought my Noctua NH-D14 for $60 back in 2011ish and I picked up a Thermalright TS 140 Power for $50 (due to RAM compatibility / AM4 support out of the box) for Ryzen.

There's quite a few $40-50 coolers that would put the Quad Lumi to shame, such as the Scythe Mugen 5.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> To be fair the quad lumi adds a heatpipe.
> 
> However the heatpipe isn't worth the ~$30 increase in price and neither does the LED fan.
> 
> I bought my Noctua NH-D14 for $60 back in 2011ish and I picked up a Thermalright TS 140 Power for $50 (due to RAM compatibility / AM4 support out of the box) for Ryzen.
> 
> There's quite a few $40-50 coolers that would put the Quad Lumi to shame, such as the Scythe Mugen 5.


Fsp-Windale 6 or Enermax T50 Axe are better to buy air cooling for that price range


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UF53D6676
> 
> Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi pricing has me doubting them ,it's $60 USD on Newegg for a 160W TDP rated cooler...
> 
> Would rather get a decent cooler with a white or black fan and use the Phanteks Halos RGB rings if I was into RGB (I'm not)


this price for enermax t50 axe
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835214070

and windale 6
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIABP95N94691&cm_re=amd_ryzen-_-9SIABP95N94691-_-Product

sorry, im just give a brief comparison with Quad lumi H5, but as a decision is come back to personal need, if you like RGB with setting NZXT software, grab Quadlumi


----------



## Scotty99

I know not not the be quiet thread but just got my drp3 installed. 1.376v and only 1100rpm on the fans, 70c load temps during prime.

Us air cooler guys gotta stick together right?


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

but to be honest, im prefer spend that money for buying windale6 than H7-quadlumi hehe







(six pipes on left and right heatsinks are more better for handle heating that comes out from CPU







)


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> I know not not the be quiet thread but just got my drp3 installed. 1.376v and only 1100rpm on the fans, 70c load temps during prime.
> 
> Us air cooler guys gotta stick together right?


that Vcore for 1700 ?? that high
im with R1 ultimate not touching temp so high like that, except when applied vcore 1.4 volt above on my ryzen 1700


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> that Vcore for 1700 ?? that high
> im with R1 ultimate not touching temp so high like that, except when applied vcore 1.4 volt above on my ryzen 1700


1.376 isnt very high for ryzen actually, many run over 1.4 daily for 4.0.

My fans are also at 1100 rpm, tuning my system to be silent


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> 1.376 isnt very high for ryzen actually, many run over 1.4 daily for 4.0.
> 
> My fans are also at 1100 rpm, tuning my system to be silent


so that 1.376 vcore for 4.0 ghz?? thats nice








im using 1700 daily with OC too, 3.85 ghz for 1.325vore and 1.15 Soc

good job for DRP3 if can handle 4ghz ryzen with 1.376vcore


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> so that 1.376 vcore for 4.0 ghz?? thats nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im using 1700 daily with OC too, 3.85 ghz for 1.325vore and 1.15 Soc
> 
> good job for DRP3 if can handle 4ghz ryzen with 1.376vcore


3.9 actually, i could probably do lower volts but i just got cooler and havent tried anything lower. I think my chip will need over 1.4 for 4.0ghz, will give it a shot tomorrow.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> 3.9 actually, i could probably do lower volts but i just got cooler and havent tried anything lower. I think my chip will need over 1.4 for 4.0ghz, will give it a shot tomorrow.


im with Asrock Taichi, 3.95 ghz can reach with bump voltage 1.35-.1375 LLC2 and SOC 1.15, you should try with 1.35 Vcore 1st, if stable so no need to bump vcore higher than that


----------



## Malik Sajid

Hey, guys! Finally I've managed to install that really massive cooler! Asus p5q-e NB heatsink restrained me as well as my corsair spec 03 so I didn't manage to install it in any other way but 90 degrees up rotated so the fans are pushing into the exhaust side, is that okay? I also got a topper fan above the cooler so it's work like a third fan

I entered BIOS to check cpu temps and it's 32.5 degrees
It's a Q9650, VID in BIOS 1.152V


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik Sajid*
> 
> Hey, guys! Finally I've managed to install that really massive cooler! Asus p5q-e NB heatsink restrained me as well as my corsair spec 03 so I didn't manage to install it in any other way but 90 degrees up rotated so the fans are pushing into the exhaust side, is that okay? I also got a topper fan above the cooler so it's work like a third fan
> 
> I entered BIOS to check cpu temps and it's 32.5 degrees
> It's a Q9650, VID in BIOS 1.152V


its ok, as long as that beefy cooler stand with proper screws and not too tight to screws, your good to go for OC








now, try to OC your cpu with this guide http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/259899-29-core-overclocking-guide









goodluck


----------



## Malik Sajid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> its ok, as long as that beefy cooler stand with proper screws and not too tight to screws, your good to go for OC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now, try to OC your cpu with this guide http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/259899-29-core-overclocking-guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> goodluck


Thanks for your concern!


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik Sajid*
> 
> Hey, guys! Finally I've managed to install that really massive cooler! Asus p5q-e NB heatsink restrained me as well as my corsair spec 03 so I didn't manage to install it in any other way but 90 degrees up rotated so the fans are pushing into the exhaust side, is that okay? I also got a topper fan above the cooler so it's work like a third fan
> 
> I entered BIOS to check cpu temps and it's 32.5 degrees
> It's a Q9650, VID in BIOS 1.152V


what Casing did you use? corsair series ?? can you close that side casing with side window panel?
fyi, on windows you can using HWmonitor and Speedfan app for monitoring your cpu core temp, Tctl and gpu (there's no big difference info for cpu temp from windows and bios, imho)


----------



## Malik Sajid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> what Casing did you use? corsair series ?? can you close that side casing with side window panel?
> fyi, on windows you can using HWmonitor and Speedfan app for monitoring your cpu core temp, Tctl and gpu (there's no big difference info for cpu temp from windows and bios, imho)


Yeah it's a Corsair carbide spec 03 case, unfortunately I can't close my side panel! I mistook the dimensions of that case. it's okay am gonna to buy a new one (NZXT H440) but I really like the look of that corsair case :/


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik Sajid*
> 
> Yeah it's a Corsair carbide spec 03 case, unfortunately I can't close my side panel! I mistook the dimensions of that case. it's okay am gonna to buy a new one (NZXT H440) but I really like the look of that corsair case :/


indeed, but if you leave side panel open like that, soon or later dust will accumulated faster inside your casing. Pretty sure it will decreased your PC performance.
Hmm, NZXT H440...better you buy Phanteks Enthoo Pro, cheaper than H440
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854003&cm_re=phanteks_enthoo-_-11-854-003-_-Product


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik Sajid*
> 
> Yeah it's a Corsair carbide spec 03 case, unfortunately I can't close my side panel! I mistook the dimensions of that case. it's okay am gonna to buy a new one (NZXT H440) but I really like the look of that corsair case :/


I would bet that your feelings on the appearance of the SPEC03 are going to change dramatically when you see it side by side with something like the H440......









You might want to consider something like the Phanteks Pro M Tempered or acrylic. Much better airflow than the H440 (which is notoriously bad....bad still worlds better than the SPEC 03), nicer build quality, much better stock fans, etc.


----------



## Scotty99

H440 airflow isnt bad actually, it just does not have top vents. Even if it had a single 120mm blowing out the top like the s340 temps would be a lot better, but again h440 is designed with silence in mind (h stands for hush).


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> H440 airflow isnt bad actually, it just does not have top vents. Even if it had a single 120mm blowing out the top like the s340 temps would be a lot better, but again h440 is designed with silence in mind (h stands for hush).


Actually.....it is really bad. Very restrictive front. In the bottom 20% of cases we tested in terms of airflow.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Actually.....it is really bad. Very restrictive front. In the bottom 20% of cases we tested in terms of airflow.


Top panel off will give you lower temps than front panel off, test it.

Air cooling CPU's in this case is really quite good, you just dont want to put a radiator in the top. Im at nearly 1.4v on my ryzen chip, max temps i see after half an hour of prime is only 71c. Had i a AIO, id be looking at temps at least 10c higher than that.

Edit: And that 71c number is with my fans stuck at 1100 rpm, i cant get my board to spin fans up depending on temps lol.

Id like to add GPU's seem to suffer more in this case than CPU's do, as long as you are air cooling the CPU. But again, this case is silence oriented, expectations should be set to match that.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Top panel off will give you lower temps than front panel off, test it.
> 
> Air cooling CPU's in this case is really quite good, you just dont want to put a radiator in the top. Im at nearly 1.4v on my ryzen chip, max temps i see after half an hour of prime is only 71c. Had i a AIO, id be looking at temps at least 10c higher than that.
> 
> Edit: And that 71c number is with my fans stuck at 1100 rpm, i cant get my board to spin fans up depending on temps lol.
> 
> Id like to add GPU's seem to suffer more in this case than CPU's do, as long as you are air cooling the CPU. But again, this case is silence oriented, expectations should be set to match that.


So, you are saying "It kinda works ok if you ignore the GPU, don't liquid cool, remove panels and don't compare it to better cases"? That is Corsair fanboy worthy justification.

Trust me....we compared it to over 100 cases in controlled conditions with standardized testing methods. It does not have good airflow.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> So, you are saying "It kinda works ok if you ignore the GPU, don't liquid cool, remove panels and don't compare it to better cases"? That is Corsair fanboy worthy justification.


No i am saying its not as bad as you make it out to be, not sure what you mean when you said its at bottom 20%, my guess is you had an aio for your testing. This is not a case designed for a liquid cooler, put a tower cooler in it and watch the temps plummet.

And imho when taking everything into account (looks/noise levels/design/build quality etc etc), there are no better cases on the market : ) Wouldnt have bought it otherwise lol, so i guess that makes me a fanboy of the case?

11c lower load temps using a NH-D15 over a corsair H105:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UMl7iEzpzsA#t=16m01s


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> So, you are saying "It kinda works ok if you ignore the GPU, don't liquid cool, remove panels and don't compare it to better cases"? That is Corsair fanboy worthy justification.
> 
> Trust me....we compared it to over 100 cases in controlled conditions with standardized testing methods. It does not have good airflow.


Look at video i posted above.

My results line up with his, i am beating people's temps in the ryzen owners clubs that have much more expensive AIO's.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Look at video i posted above.
> 
> My results line up with his, i am beating people's temps in the ryzen owners clubs that have much more expensive AIO's.


And this has what to do with air cooling in an H440, or the fact that every review that did actual airflow tests on it found it really lacking?


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> And this has what to do with air cooling in an H440, or the fact that every review that did actual airflow tests on it found it really lacking?


So you did use an AIO lol.

Just looking at the out of the box confiuration, you can easily see how much better it is suited to air cooling.

Again the air flow is fine when taking advantage of the front>back configuration the fans are set to, in fact its quite good.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik Sajid*
> 
> Yeah it's a Corsair carbide spec 03 case, unfortunately I can't close my side panel! I mistook the dimensions of that case. it's okay am gonna to buy a new one (NZXT H440) but I really like the look of that corsair case :/


Phanteks Enthoo Pro is very good for investing your cpu case for now and for your future PC upgrading








Or, you can buy casing like mine, Phantom 630, very good air flow..up panel with two-220 mm fans, front with two-140 mm fans, bottom with two-140 mm fans, rear one-140mm fans, its up to you haha


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> So you did use an AIO lol.
> 
> Just looking at the out of the box confiuration, you can easily see how much better it is suited to air cooling.
> 
> Again the air flow is fine when taking advantage of the front>back configuration the fans are set to, in fact its quite good.


You brought up AiO, not me. Though we did test with AiO and air, but it was actual airflow tests that I am referring to.

And, no, the airflow is not "quite good" when compared to comparable cases. It is actually "quite bad". If You are happy with your H440, that's great. But don't try to make it something it's not.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You brought up AiO, not me. Though we did test with AiO and air, but it was actual airflow tests that I am referring to.
> 
> And, no, the airflow is not "quite good" when compared to comparable cases. It is actually "quite bad". If You are happy with your H440, that's great. But don't try to make it something it's not.


I brought up AIO because its not something people should be using in this case, very relevant to the discussion lol.

As you saw from the video were talking 11c lower delta under load, that is massive and is what can be mainly attributed to when people say this is a bad case for cooling, given how popular AIO's are these days.

Edit: As for GPU's yes you can expect 6-7c higher temps in this case compared to something with more mesh like a corsair 400c, but that thing is obviously going to be much much noisier.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You could have stopped there. LOL


Are you a bit slow or something?

Context matters, read the next three words of that sentence, bares a bit of importance.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Not slow at all. Sarcastic, yes. Slow, no. It seems you completely missed what I was saying. Go back and read the post again. Read exactly what I stated. I was no longer discussing the H440 with you since you have been unable to do that with any impartiality, I was jabbing at AiO.


There is a difference between being impartial, and correcting a false notion.

H440 is not nearly as bad as you are making it out to be. When you outfit the case with hardware more befitting the out of the box confiuration, it performs quite well. Just like to make that clear to the person who was interested in buying it.

I obviously agree on AIO vs tower coolers, tho i will say it was a hard decision between h440 and a dark rock pro 3 or s340 and a kraken x62, man that is a pretty AIO lol.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Take it to pm.


So people couldn't see the info i posted about the H440 responding to tower coolers vastly better than AIO's?

What good would that have done.

I am now done with that guy btw, just needed to make sure what he was saying isnt taken as gospel.


----------



## Shneiky

@Scotty99,

You should read my review of the H440 with the R1 Ultimate:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1589987/cooling-techniques-in-highly-restrictive-silent-cases-h440-new-edition-review

The only way I found to keep an R1 Ultimate fed with enough fresh air in an H440 is by 6 intakes and creating a tunnel from the 2 R1 fans and the rear of the case all controlled by a PWM splitter in unison. H440 is not bad for CPU cooling, but it is bad for GPU cooling. With a cooler with such high performance as the R1 - you need a lot of intake to keep it fed fresh air, and not recycled hot mess.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> @Scotty99,
> 
> You should read my review of the H440 with the R1 Ultimate:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1589987/cooling-techniques-in-highly-restrictive-silent-cases-h440-new-edition-review
> 
> The only way I found to keep an R1 Ultimate fed with enough fresh air in an H440 is by 6 intakes and creating a tunnel from the 2 R1 fans and the rear of the case all controlled by a PWM splitter in unison. H440 is not bad for CPU cooling, but it is bad for GPU cooling. With a cooler with such high performance as the R1 - you need a lot of intake to keep it fed fresh air, and not recycled hot mess.


I own the case...

Again, the top panel is the "problem" in the H440, front is perfectly adequate. Problem in quotes because its a silence optimized case. As you found out with your tests this thing does great with an air cooler. When this case released 4 years ago it was immediately obvious to me you dont put an AIO in the roof exhausting against a *sound dampened enclosed* top panel, yet you have guys that did that and there is the reason for the bad press on this case.

Either way ill respect thread starters request and not continue further this discussion.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> I own the case...
> 
> Again, the top panel is the "problem" in the H440, front is perfectly adequate. Problem in quotes because its a silence optimized case. As you found out with your tests this thing does great with an air cooler. When this case released 4 years ago it was immediately obvious to me you dont put an AIO in the roof exhausting against a *sound dampened enclosed* top panel, yet you have guys that did that and there is the reason for the bad press on this case.
> 
> Either way ill respect thread starters request and not continue further this discussion.


cool, keep it up!








let's go we continue reviews with other Cryorig products in this Thread room


----------



## khemist

My R1 universal in the FT05 case.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> URL='https://imageshack.com/i/pnDdsshkj']
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My R1 universal in the FT05 case.


Looks very nice!








Maybe black shrouds would look better then white.


----------



## Albert1007

Hey, I'm new to the forum (already introduced), but interested particularly on this theme.

I have a R1 ultimate (that will end as a R1 Universal, bought it thinking that it wouldn't obstruct the 2nd ram slot, but yes it does X), so a XF140 is on my way, actually only with the fan in the middle)

I'm currently running a R5 1600X at 3.9Ghz with 1.35V, bumping it to 1.373V by the LLC sometimes. At idle it goes down to 1.9Ghz with 0.5 or less vcore, but temps at idle keep between the 37 and the 47 Celsius, and full load it goes up to a maximum of 73 Celsius.

3 Corsair ML120 in the front entering air, and one more in the rear exhausting.

My questions...

Are those temps normal / dangerous? It's using stock paste, so...

Will the temp be noticeably improved (5 Celsius difference or more) with the extra XF140?

Thank you everyone in advance!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Albert1007*
> 
> Hey, I'm new to the forum (already introduced), but interested particularly on this theme.
> 
> I have a R1 ultimate (that will end as a R1 Universal, bought it thinking that it wouldn't obstruct the 2nd ram slot, but yes it does X), so a XF140 is on my way, actually only with the fan in the middle)
> 
> I'm currently running a R5 1600X at 3.9Ghz with 1.35V, bumping it to 1.373V by the LLC sometimes. At idle it goes down to 1.9Ghz with 0.5 or less vcore, but temps at idle keep between the 37 and the 47 Celsius, and full load it goes up to a maximum of 73 Celsius.
> 
> 3 Corsair ML120 in the front entering air, and one more in the rear exhausting.
> 
> My questions...
> 
> Are those temps normal / dangerous? It's using stock paste, so...
> 
> Will the temp be noticeably improved (5 Celsius difference or more) with the extra XF140?
> 
> Thank you everyone in advance!


While the R1 Ultimate and Universal look very much alike they are not the same cooler with differnet front fan and different shroud color. The R1 Universal is 35.5mm center CPU to front of cooler and R1 Ultimate is 40mm .. Universal gives you 4.5mm more space between front of cooler and RAM to fit a fan into.

Your temps at idlle are okay, but I'm not sure about 73c. A lot depends on how accurate the reading is. Sorry, but I don't know a lot about Ryzen.


----------



## Albert1007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Your temps at idlle are okay, but I'm not sure about 73c. A lot depends on how accurate the reading is. Sorry, but I don't know a lot about Ryzen.


The temp is taken with Ryzen master, so it's pretty accurate.

Does anybody know if it's dangerous? (those are temps at Rog Realbench, cinebench usually stays at 68-70 and gaming 50-60)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Albert1007*
> 
> The temp is taken with Ryzen master, so it's pretty accurate.
> 
> Does anybody know if it's dangerous? (those are temps at Rog Realbench, cinebench usually stays at 68-70 and gaming 50-60)


As you know you are in air cooling forum an Cryorig cooler thread. Probably get more informed answers over on AMD CPU Ryzen thread.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1628508/official-ryzen-5-1600x-1600-1500x-1400-owners-club/0_20


----------



## Albert1007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> As you know you are in air cooling forum an Cryorig cooler thread. Probably get more informed answers over on AMD CPU Ryzen thread.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1628508/official-ryzen-5-1600x-1600-1500x-1400-owners-club/0_20


Yes, I know where I am, I was asking also about the difference in the R1 Ultimate with only the central fan, and an extra XF140.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Albert1007*
> 
> Yes, I know where I am, I was asking also about the difference in the R1 Ultimate with only the central fan, and an extra XF140.


I never used/tried my R1 with one fan.

If you mean usign 3x XF140 fans, I never tried that either.

Sorry


----------



## Albert1007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I never used/tried my R1 with one fan.
> 
> If you mean usign 3x XF140 fans, I never tried that either.
> 
> Sorry


Ok, thanks!


----------



## Shneiky

Differences between single and dual fan configurations in open test bed on R1 Ultimate. Graph is temperature and RPM focused. BIOS was set at 65C target temp - in other words - if temps are going over 65 C - bump up the fan speed until it drops. Tests done of 2700K - soldered heatspreader. Though your mileage on Ryzen will vary - it will be much closer than if the test was done on 3770/4700/6700 or 7700k due to their use of TIM under the hood. Though the Ryzen has larger area than my oldie 2700k, which might help with heat dissipation. After all - R1 has proven to be more effective on the larger sockets - 2011 for example - in comparison to the 1155/1150/1551 sockets.

P.S.

Temp is vertical while RPM is horizontal. Forgot that Excel misplaced that tag.


----------



## Albert1007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> 
> 
> Differences between single and dual fan configurations in open test bed on R1 Ultimate. Graph is temperature and RPM focused. BIOS was set at 65C target temp - in other words - if temps are going over 65 C - bump up the fan speed until it drops. Tests done of 2700K - soldered heatspreader. Though your mileage on Ryzen will vary - it will be much closer than if the test was done on 3770/4700/6700 or 7700k due to their use of TIM under the hood. Though the Ryzen has larger area than my oldie 2700k, which might help with heat dissipation. After all - R1 has proven to be more effective on the larger sockets - 2011 for example - in comparison to the 1155/1150/1551 sockets.
> 
> P.S.
> 
> Temp is vertical while RPM is horizontal. Forgot that Excel misplaced that tag.


Great, thanks for the comparison!


----------



## ruffhi

I would hate to think that the temp was horizontal


----------



## Dimensive

This case keeps getting more and more interesting:




Then there's the ridiculous price...


----------



## doyll

I would love to learn more about the the case @Dimensive, but I am unable to listen or watch the idiotic talking head doing the video.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I would love to learn more about the the case @Dimensive, but I am unable to listen or watch the idiotic talking head doing the video.


Lol, a lot could be gathered even on mute. Basics: ITX motherboard support, SFX-L PSU support, 2x2.5" and 1x3.5" drive support, good graphics card clearance (around 300mm), has openings to pass cables through the top to the back, push to eject tray which is fully removable like a standard drawer, and has the ridiculous LIAN LI manufacturing price of $395+.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Lol, a lot could be gathered even on mute. Basics: ITX motherboard support, SFX-L PSU support, 2x2.5" and 1x3.5" drive support, good graphics card clearance (around 300mm), has openings to pass cables through the top to the back, push to eject tray which is fully removable like a standard drawer, and has the ridiculous LIAN LI manufacturing price of $395+.


Thanks!
You saved me having to pay homage to the porcelain throne (pucking) after watching him doing his asinine dumb act.








I believe 300mm GPU length is incorrect. On June 14th Liam Li on Kickstarter said _"The Taku supports GPUs up to 280mm in length and 130mm in width."_, and the specifications below also say 280 mm. Also no idea where the $395+ manufacturing price came from. Cryorig website says
"Early bird backers will be able to get the Taku at USD$ 250 (-VAT,-shipping) with standard Taku Classics going up to USD$ 299(-VAT,-shipping), the custom Taku PE's cost will depend on customization options."

So depending on where on Earth you are, if shipping and VAT are $100 it will cost $350 to Early bird backers and $399 to others .. assuming there are no dealers closer and they don't find lower priced shipping.

But that talking head doesn't care about being accurate, only popular.









Here is accurate information direct from Cryorig website and Lain Li replies on Kickstart:
Quote:


> *CRYORIG Introduces the Taku Kickstarter Campaign*
> MAY 28 2017, AM 03:11
> 
> CRYORIG, the PC Cooling and peripherals innovator is releasing their first PC case project the Taku on crowdfunding website Kickstarter. The Taku, first announced and exhibited last summer, will also be shown during Computex 2017. The Taku has been in development for over 2 Years in house, with over 6 months of co-development with manufacturing partner Lian Li. The Taku Kickstarter campaign begins on May 29th and ends on July 28th. Besides offering backers the chance to be the first people to receive the Taku, backers are also offered multiple customization options only available on Kickstarter.
> 
> The Taku is a hybrid between a PC Monitor Stand and a high-end ITX form factor PC case. With the Taku, the PC footprint is minimized to free up desk space while at the same time fitting a high-performance PC system. The benefit of this design is that the monitor, keyboard and the full PC system is arranged vertically on top of each other. Meaning the total footprint is lowered, and valuable deskspace is freed. The Taku is compatible with GPU's up to 280mm, ITX form factor mainboards, SFX or SFX-L power supplies, fully capable of housing a high-end Gaming PC. Taku's storage space is also well taken care of. The Taku can also fit 1x 3.5" HDD, two 2.5" SSD/HDD.
> 
> As a PC Monitor Stand the Taku can support monitors up to 15 kg and fit a full 104 key mechanical keyboard underneath the stand. The system tray can be fully slid out of the chassis for easy installation of PC components or upgrades. On the left side of the Taku you'll find dual USB 3.0 ports and audio in/out ports. A USB-Type C port will be made available in later revisions. The Taku will also include two cable management holes at the front. This allows for cables to be run through the system tray and connected to the back ports of the Taku. Providing easy and clean cable management of USB charging lines for your phone or peripheral.
> 
> Chassis Colors
> 
> Silver
> Gunmetal
> Red
> Leg Colors
> 
> Silver
> Gunmetal Aluminum
> Light Wood
> Dark Wood
> With the Taku, CRYORIG combines wood and aluminum to create an organic feeling piece of Technology that would fit perfectly into any home, or work environment. The Taku campaign will begin on May 29th and offer multiple colors and material options for users to mix and match. Early bird backers will be able to get the Taku at USD$ 250 (-VAT,-shipping) with standard Taku Classics going up to USD$ 299(-VAT,-shipping), the custom Taku PE's cost will depend on customization options. First shipments of the Taku will got out to backers beginning in September. An additional C7 will be added free if the Taku campaign reaches 1,000 units backed.
> 
> *Cryorig Taku Classic*
> 
> Case Dimensions (H x W x D): 142 x 570 x 310 mm
> Weight: 5.3 kg
> Motherboard support: Mini-ITX
> Power Supply support: SFX, SFX-L
> Drives: 1 x 3.5" HDD and 2 x 2.5" HDD/SSD
> Front ports: 2 x USB 3.0 (internal 20pin plug) and 3.5mm Audio in/out ports.
> Power button: Premium-grade button
> Material: 2mm aluminum, anodized sandblasted exterior
> Colors: Anodized black or silver exterior, matte black painted
> Internal Lian-Li PCI-E 3.0 x16 compatible Riser Card
> PSU- 24pin and 8pin extension cable included
> 92mm System Fan included
> With the Taku, CRYORIG combines wood and aluminum to create an organic feeling piece of Technology that would fit perfectly into any home, or work environment. The Taku campaign will begin on May 29th and offer multiple colors and material options for users to mix and match. Early bird backers will be able to get the Taku at USD$ 250 (-VAT,-shipping) with standard Taku Classics going up to USD$ 299(-VAT,-shipping), the custom Taku PE's cost will depend on customization options. First shipments of the Taku will got out to backers beginning in September. An additional C7 will be added free if the Taku campaign reaches 1,000 units backed.
> 
> As of right now $37,586.00 of the $100,000.00 kickstart goal have been gathered.
> _"All or nothing. This project will only be funded if it reaches its goal by Fri, July 28 2017 2:40 AM BST."_
> 
> Another $62414.00 is needed to reach the goal by 28th the project will not proceed.
> https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1308692809/taku-the-monitor-stand-pc-case/comments
> 
> *Compatibility*
> CPU Coolers
> 
> Note: Some heatsinks will also fit if used with a thinner fan
> Max. height 48mm
> Hard Disk Drives
> 
> 2 x 2.5" HDD/SSD in drive bay
> 1 x 3.5" HDD/SSD in drive bay
> Graphics Card
> 
> Max. Width: From bottom of PCI-E slot to top: 134mm
> Max. Height: 40mm (Dual Slot PCI-E)
> Max. Length: 280mm
> Motherboard
> 
> Mini-ITX
> Power Supply
> 
> SFX and SFX-L
> 
> Memory Max. Height
> 
> 52mm


Everything above except the Kickstart figures is from Cryorig
http://www.cryorig.com/news.php?id=75

So even though the dip-stick talking head can't even an acurate and honest video review, he at is good for something. He got me motivated enough to post up accurate information about Taku Classic.


----------



## Dimensive

Yea, didn't mean $395 manufacturing cost, just your typical overpriced LIAN LI manufacturing. 300mm was a guess from my awful memory because I really didn't want to watch it again. It's a nice case, but I'd never pay that much for it.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Taku does indeed look nice, but two flaws with it in my eyes...

- the price. Omg the price. The free C7 CU is a nice though, but that's a steep price.
- the fact that even with other colour options the front is only available in white.

Beyond those two... If you don't mind paying for it, and you like the white front, it seems like it would be a rather nice little ITX case.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Yea, didn't mean $395 manufacturing cost, just your typical overpriced LIAN LI manufacturing. 300mm was a guess from my awful memory because I really didn't want to watch it again. It's a nice case, but I'd never pay that much for it.


$395 for that TAKU casing price??







(i was also interest for buying Taku, but after knew this price, im gave up lol







)
well, im still prefer using my Phantom630 casing if so, lower price than taku, but have extremely inner Aircooling headroom


----------



## Shneiky

It's the size of a Mastercard. Until now, only Noctua has shown TR coolers. I hope Cryorig is ready to show some muscle. Would not mind seeing a beefed up R1 Ultimate (X1 Ultimate?) taking up on the challenge. Depending on performance/power consumption/heat I might be getting 1 of these 12 cores. Old, but gold 2700K still kicks, but back then 6 cores was top of the line and I am in dire need of more rendering power.

Hope Cryorig has something planned for TR. Would not like to go with Noctua (guys have great products, but my money is with Cryorig). And if TR requires liquid cooling I will scrap the idea altogether.

So go Cryorig


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> $395 for that TAKU casing price??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (i was also interest for buying Taku, but after knew this price, im gave up lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> well, im still prefer using my Phantom630 casing if so, lower price than taku, but have extremely inner Aircooling headroom


If you read post # 3492 you will see:
"Early bird backers will be able to get the Taku at USD$ 250 (-VAT,-shipping) with standard Taku Classics going up to USD$ 299(-VAT,-shipping), the custom Taku PE's cost will depend on customization options."

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's the size of a Mastercard. Until now, only Noctua has shown TR coolers. I hope Cryorig is ready to show some muscle. Would not mind seeing a beefed up R1 Ultimate (X1 Ultimate?) taking up on the challenge. Depending on performance/power consumption/heat I might be getting 1 of these 12 cores. Old, but gold 2700K still kicks, but back then 6 cores was top of the line and I am in dire need of more rendering power.
> 
> Hope Cryorig has something planned for TR. Would not like to go with Noctua (guys have great products, but my money is with Cryorig). And if TR requires liquid cooling I will scrap the idea altogether.
> 
> So go Cryorig


Could you please use actual names instead of abbreviations like 'TR'? 'TR' is commonly the abbreviation for Thermalright .. and I don't think you mean Noctua has shown Thermarlght coolers.









As for cooler base contact area to CPU size,
D15 is approx 42mm square
R1 is approx 40x45mm

As for a 'beefed up R1 Ultimate' the new Cu line-up is exactly that. The all copper should improve cooling .. how much remains to be seen.


----------



## Shneiky

By beefed up R1 I mean EPYC beefed up (pun intended).

TR as in TR4 - the new Threadripper socket. The CPU heatspreader will be approx 70mm by 52 mm. This should also be similar to the EPYC line-up, although the sockets (as far as leaks go) appear similar in physical dimensions - more data is needed.

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/amd-x399-threadripper-tr4-socket,news-56335.html

The Threadripper CPUs are actually cut-down EPYCs. They basically have 4 Ryzen 1800s under the same hood. The modules are spread out of the center.

https://www.extremetech.com/computing/253248-amd-threadripper-delidded-multi-core-surprise-hood

So this means you just need a large enough contact plate. You can't go around like Intel and only cover the center. No info on which 2 of the 4 modules are operational, but I would imagine they will differ from CPU to CPU. Any EPYC with a faulty module or modules becomes a Threadripper by simply cutting off the module.

As it goes on the CU side - when I recall the Zalman tries with full copper heatsink back in the 2005ish (I could be couple of years off) it was not very effective. Remains to be seen.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> By beefed up R1 I mean EPYC beefed up (pun intended).
> 
> TR as in TR4 - the new Threadripper socket. The CPU heatspreader will be approx 70mm by 52 mm. This should also be similar to the EPYC line-up, although the sockets (as far as leaks go) appear similar in physical dimensions - more data is needed.
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/amd-x399-threadripper-tr4-socket,news-56335.html
> 
> The Threadripper CPUs are actually cut-down EPYCs. They basically have 4 Ryzen 1800s under the same hood. The modules are spread out of the center.
> 
> https://www.extremetech.com/computing/253248-amd-threadripper-delidded-multi-core-surprise-hood
> 
> So this means you just need a large enough contact plate. You can't go around like Intel and only cover the center. No info on which 2 of the 4 modules are operational, but I would imagine they will differ from CPU to CPU. Any EPYC with a faulty module or modules becomes a Threadripper by simply cutting off the module.
> 
> As it goes on the CU side - when I recall the Zalman tries with full copper heatsink back in the 2005ish (I could be couple of years off) it was not very effective. Remains to be seen.


Thanks!
Socket appears to have a 42x42mm IHS .. at least that is what it scales to from drawing .. meaning conventional CPU cooler bases will fit nicely on it.

The bigger PCB is to accommodate all the extra connections needed for the extra cores / threads.


----------



## ColdRush

Just incase anyone out there was wondering where the C7 Copper is as far as production goes this is the response I got from support:
Quote:


> Thank you for contacting us and for your interest in our new project.
> 
> The C7 Cu Edition we showcased in Computex is just a proof of concept for now and we're still working on it. So there is no time frame for its release but the C7 Cu should be able to hit the shelves by the end of the year.
> 
> Thank you.


----------



## Shneiky

@doyll,

"Thanks!
Socket appears to have a 42x42mm IHS .. at least that is what it scales to from drawing .. meaning conventional CPU cooler bases will fit nicely on it."

Um.... Nope. Threadripper is not square.



If my interpretation of the Tom's Hardware post is correct - the IHS is approx 70mm by 52mm.

And here is a comparison of a normal Noctua contact plate against a TR4 one:


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> @doyll,
> 
> "Thanks!
> Socket appears to have a 42x42mm IHS .. at least that is what it scales to from drawing .. meaning conventional CPU cooler bases will fit nicely on it."
> 
> Um.... Nope. Threadripper is not square.
> 
> 
> 
> If my interpretation of the Tom's Hardware post is correct - the IHS is approx 70mm by 52mm.
> 
> And here is a comparison of a normal Noctua contact plate against a TR4 one:


Then Tom's Hardware is rather incomplete.
I scaled the center square in image they posted in article you posted link found it to be 42x42mm. Drawing also has a 69.2x51.9mm rectangle but if that is the IHS there is no clearance between it and latching frame around IHS that hold CPU in place.


I you want to continue this discussion please start a thread so we are not cluttering Cryorig cooler thread.


----------



## Shneiky

What you are looking at is not the retention bracket. It is the top side of a contact plate for one of their waterblocks they are making in house.

Anyway, no need to be overzealous. I was just making out a point why a standard R1 (like the one I own) will not work on a TR4 CPU (as you suggested) or maybe not work as it should. And it was also why, I mentioned I wanted a beefed up R1 in the first place.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> What you are looking at is not the retention bracket. It is the top side of a contact plate for one of their waterblocks they are making in house.
> 
> Anyway, no need to be overzealous. I was just making out a point why a standard R1 (like the one I own) will not work on a TR4 CPU (as you suggested) or maybe not work as it should. And it was also why, I mentioned I wanted a beefed up R1 in the first place.


I understand.
If the retention bracket CPU IHS opening is only 69.2x51.9mm, then the IHS has to be at least a few mm smaller. I agree, new coolers with bigger bases will be needed .. and with many coolers the heatpipes limit the base size to basically the size they now are. This means they will probably need to design a new cooler rather than beef up an existing one.

Will be interesting to see what they come up with.


----------



## Shneiky

I think this scenario will allow for even 10 or 12 heatpipes to be implemented. Since Air Coolers pretty much scale all that well with heatpipes. This theoretically means, that an R1 with 12 heatpipes and increased fin area (because the socket is much larger - the distance to the PCIe slot and the top of the motherboard is longer) can overtake straight out all 360 loops not only in noise/performance, but also in brute performance numbers.

Also, if we check back the R1 benches - it always did better on the 2011 socket and came on top of AiOs that would else have an advantage at LGA 115*.

If Cryorig really takes up the challenge and creates a proper TR4 optimized cooler - I think we will have Air reign supreme over AiOs.

Steve... Can you throw any breadcrumbs on this information hungry ducklings?


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

i hope Cryorig will release Air Cooler for TR4 too, ASAP








im already order this two, but very sad not this beefy CPU not includes aircooler bundling









https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113447&cm_re=threadripper_cooler-_-19-113-447-_-Product
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157784&cm_re=asrock_x399-_-13-157-784-_-Product

if Cryorig sold the AirCooler to support for this Threadripper CPU, i will grab that!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> I think this scenario will allow for even 10 or 12 heatpipes to be implemented. Since Air Coolers pretty much scale all that well with heatpipes. This theoretically means, that an R1 with 12 heatpipes and increased fin area (because the socket is much larger - the distance to the PCIe slot and the top of the motherboard is longer) can overtake straight out all 360 loops not only in noise/performance, but also in brute performance numbers.
> 
> Also, if we check back the R1 benches - it always did better on the 2011 socket and came on top of AiOs that would else have an advantage at LGA 115*.
> 
> If Cryorig really takes up the challenge and creates a proper TR4 optimized cooler - I think we will have Air reign supreme over AiOs.
> 
> Steve... Can you throw any breadcrumbs on this information hungry ducklings?


While CPU socket placement can be moved, PCIe socket placement, I/O, motherboard size and mounting holes have fixed standards. I doubt they will change with AMD's 'TR4' Threadripper CPU socket. I do agree that many current coolers are likey not going to work well on it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> i hope Cryorig will release Air Cooler for TR4 too, ASAP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im already order this two, but very sad not this beefy CPU not includes aircooler bundling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113447&cm_re=threadripper_cooler-_-19-113-447-_-Product
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157784&cm_re=asrock_x399-_-13-157-784-_-Product
> 
> if Cryorig sold the AirCooler to support for this Threadripper CPU, i will grab that!


I'm sure they are working on it, but no idea when they will get one released.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

I'm about to pull the trigger and order this mobo. . . Does any one know if the heatsinks that are circled in yellow will interfere with the R1 Universal?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> I'm about to pull the trigger and order this mobo. . . Does any one know if the heatsinks that are circled in yellow will interfere with the R1 Universal?


Your answer is here - http://www.cryorig.com/images/tester/r1-universal/r1-universal_socket_2011.pdf


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Your answer is here - http://www.cryorig.com/images/tester/r1-universal/r1-universal_socket_2011.pdf


Whell, that's assuming he already has the board, but he probably doesn't. So he would probably need the dimensions of the board, which I don't think are available.

I'd go to the ASUS AM4 thread (assuming there is one) and ask if anyone that has the board wants to print and try the paper dummy cooler.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> I'm about to pull the trigger and order this mobo. . . Does any one know if the heatsinks that are circled in yellow will interfere with the R1 Universal?


that ryzen mobo??
no, that VRM heatsink no interfered with your R1 cooler. Im also used R1 ultimate on my Asrock Taichi too, with tall VRM heatsink. So far so good, no conflict with R1 heatsink


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> that ryzen mobo??
> no, that VRM heatsink no interfered with your R1 cooler. Im also used R1 ultimate on my Asrock Taichi too, with tall VRM heatsink. So far so good, no conflict with R1 heatsink


basically Asus Ryzen mobo (Viii Crosshair and their families) has the same tall VRM heatsink with Asrock (Taichi and their families). If my VRM no conflict with R1 heatsink, so i think your asus mobo also good too, no need to release that VRM heatsink on your mobo, CMIIW


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> I'm about to pull the trigger and order this mobo. . . Does any one know if the heatsinks that are circled in yellow will interfere with the R1 Universal?


what you need to aware with that situation not for your R1 will conflict with your VRM heatsink. But you need be aware with R1 will conflict with your PCIE slot 1. Im wondering that you will sacrifice your PCIE1 if your using R1 on your mobo


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> I'm about to pull the trigger and order this mobo. . . Does any one know if the heatsinks that are circled in yellow will interfere with the R1 Universal?


I think it will be fine. I have an R1 universal on a Maximus Hero VIII and there are no clearance issues at all.



Sorry, the angle isn't very good but here is a shot of it installed in the case.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Are you sure it'll interfere with the first PCI slot? Right now I have it mounted on a maximus VI HERO and its clearance is pretty good. . . I also plan to have it mounted vertically.

This is how it sits right now


This is how it was before. . . it was pretty close but clearance wide i still got my gpu in the first slot. Either way let me make my way to the Asus mobo section. Thanks for the replies everyone.


----------



## joelk2

My Cryorig h7 quad lumi.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joelk2*
> 
> My Cryorig h7 quad lumi.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks nice! Is the white on the H7 a true white or does it have a blue hue to it?


----------



## joelk2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Looks nice! Is the white on the H7 a true white or does it have a blue hue to it?


The fan looks very white. The under glow and cryo logo looks a bit more blue. Not messed with anything in cam for it though so might be able to adjust it


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Replacing oil lubrication on XF140 fan with motor oil, daamn..i think im falling in love with this trick. already three weeks past and this fan doing silencer and quiet faster now








I hope this not broke & damage my XF140, and i dont bothered if i must replace motor oil inside XF140 in every month, as long as they work like a charm!


----------



## Skylinestar

Without CAM, everything lights up in white?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joelk2*
> 
> The fan looks very white. The under glow and cryo logo looks a bit more blue. Not messed with anything in cam for it though so might be able to adjust it


Without CAM, everything lights up in white? Or do you loose any lighting?


----------



## joelk2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylinestar*
> 
> Without CAM, everything lights up in white?
> Without CAM, everything lights up in white? Or do you loose any lighting?


Yeah. All white. Well with the slight blue hue caveat.

That's how I run mine as the cam software is awful.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylinestar*
> 
> Without CAM, everything lights up in white?
> Without CAM, everything lights up in white? Or do you loose any lighting?


First it depends on if you plug in the lighting or not. If lighting is not plugged into motherbord there is no light out of cooler.


----------



## joelk2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joelk2*
> 
> Yeah. All white. Well with the slight blue hue caveat.
> 
> That's how I run mine as the cam software is awful.


If plugged in (internal to usb header) without cam everything is white.

Not plugged in all lights are off (except fan)


----------



## Kenpachi7144

This is a question for any of you that have requested the am4 kit from cryorig. . . From the time of sending them an email to the time of receiving it, how long did it take? My x370 Taichi get home next Tuesday and I want to hook up my R1 to it lol.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> This is a question for any of you that have requested the am4 kit from cryorig. . . From the time of sending them an email to the time of receiving it, how long did it take? My x370 Taichi get home next Tuesday and I want to hook up my R1 to it lol.


8 days. If you've already ordered the CPU then save a copy of your CPU/R1 invoices and order the kit.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> This is a question for any of you that have requested the am4 kit from cryorig. . . From the time of sending them an email to the time of receiving it, how long did it take? My x370 Taichi get home next Tuesday and I want to hook up my R1 to it lol.


Depending on where you are 5-10 days max.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Depending on where you are 5-10 days max.


Yeah, I sent them the request yesterday and at 10pm the same day telling me that my request has been approved but needs to be shipped. That's my type of customer service.


----------



## Rashkae

I'm having bizarre behavior on my H7 Quad Lumi.

It's on a stock clock 1800X and replaced a Thermaltake Contacsilent.

Open case, ambient is 32C.

At *idle*, CPUID HWMonitor and the MSI Command center are showing 58C (!!!). Under Prime95 it hits 95C - that's hotter than I've ever seen it!

It's mounted quite firmly and there's no wiggle. I used Coolemaster Nano thermal paste.

Any ideas what's going on?


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rashkae*
> 
> I'm having bizarre behavior on my H7 Quad Lumi.
> 
> It's on a stock clock 1800X and replaced a Thermaltake Contacsilent.
> 
> Open case, ambient is 32C.
> 
> At *idle*, CPUID HWMonitor and the MSI Command center are showing 58C (!!!). Under Prime95 it hits 95C - that's hotter than I've ever seen it!
> 
> It's mounted quite firmly and there's no wiggle. I used Coolemaster Nano thermal paste.
> 
> Any ideas what's going on?


I believe the best tool to use to monitor Ryzen temperatures is the Ryzen Master Utility, see what that says.

http://www.amd.com/ryzenmasterdownload


----------



## Rashkae

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I believe the best tool to use to monitor Ryzen temperatures is the Ryzen Master Utility, see what that says.
> 
> http://www.amd.com/ryzenmasterdownload


Thanks, I forgot about that. The Master Utility shows that there's the +20C offset, which I honestly thought the latest HWMonitor already compensated for.

So, no big issue then.


----------



## doyll

What @Dimensive said.









32c is much hotter than my case ambient is .. like 8c hotter, airflow to CPU and GPU is 24-26c intake air temps when stress testing with both at 100% load .. assuming room is 21-23c and intake filters are clean.

Edit: so 38c idle with 32c air is not bad, but not great. My idle is only 3-4c above room ambient.


----------



## GAEVULK

Hi guys, do you think this problem is normal?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAEVULK*
> 
> 
> 
> Hi guys, do you think this problem is normal?


Depends on what it is. I see dust on the front fan and can't tell if the bigger white dots are corrosion, chips or dust bunnies.


----------



## GAEVULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Depends on what it is. I see dust on the front fan and can't tell if the bigger white dots are corrosion, chips or dust bunnies.


No, it's not dust, the heatsink has just been cleaned, it's a white substance that does not come away, like salt,for me or oxidation or corrosion, all this is normal?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAEVULK*
> 
> No, it's not dust, the heatsink has just been cleaned, it's a white substance that does not come away, like salt,for me or oxidation or corrosion, all this is normal?


No, it is not 'normal' but it required something 'abnormal' to cause it. For that kind of thing to happen requires at the very least moisture and possible a acidic or maybe alkaline solution getting on the fins. Do you live in a humid enviorment? Did system ever get stored in a damp area?


----------



## GAEVULK

I live in southern Italy, in the past I had a lot of heat sinks and never had any problems.

3x Noctua Nh d 14
2x noctua nh d15
1x noctua nh u9s
1x noctua nh c14
1x noctua nh u12s

2x Thermalright Silver Arrow
2x Thermalright macho
1x Thermalright archon

1x bequiet dark rock pro 3

1x cooler master v8
1x cooler master v8 gts
1x cooler master tcp 800

2x Cryorig R1 ultimate

0 PROBLEM WITH THESE


----------



## cooljaguar

How much of an affect, if any, does replacing the stock fan on the H7 have?

I'm planning on using a Corsair ML120 for aesthetic reasons, but it would be neat if it also helped temps as well.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAEVULK*
> 
> Hi guys, do you think this problem is normal?


No its not, looks like oxidation to me. Shouldn't impact performance much, but if this keep going it might hinder airflow a little.

Might be an issue with the coating on the fins, I'd contact cryorig and see what they think.


----------



## GAEVULK

I wrote for this, to know what you thought, Cryorig told me that it is normal for them, that this will not cause problems and if I prove that the performance is getting worse I will send a new R1 as a guarantee.It seems absurd, r1 costs more or less than competitors and I'm not going to keep me a ruined product, I think it's my right to ask for replacement via rma.


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Then Tom's Hardware is rather incomplete.
> I scaled the center square in image they posted in article you posted link found it to be 42x42mm. Drawing also has a 69.2x51.9mm rectangle but if that is the IHS there is no clearance between it and latching frame around IHS that hold CPU in place.
> 
> 
> I you want to continue this discussion please start a thread so we are not cluttering Cryorig cooler thread.


Somewhat offtopic but about that picture.

How did you find that drawing? I've been searching LOTES and Foxconn F.I.T. product catalogs and I cannot find any technical specification of socket SP3.

In fact I'm quite frustrated how AMD is very closed with their design specification details for their latest sockets (AM4, SP3) while Intel openly publishes engineering specifications and design guidelines for all their sockets latest sockets such as LGA 3647 all available for download from their website including a .igs 3D mechanical reference of their heatsink and assemblies.

https://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/public/us/en/documents/product-briefs/xeon-phi-processor-x200-product-family-design-guide.pdf

If you did find a datasheet for the socket and thermal management design guidelines I'd like a link or copy of the specifications please. Thanks.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAEVULK*
> 
> 
> 
> Hi guys, do you think this problem is normal?


wow very interesting







, btw how do you usually clean dusty fins ?? im always using jet water (only room temp water with no any detergent or shampoo







) with moderate speed setting, at least all dusty and dirty washed out from all narrow fins heatsink its ok, and then im dried heatsink with hairdryer or using table fan (maximum speed). Idk so far so good with me, no leave any white spot on fins like that. Or maybe your heatsink are defect from Cryo factory, idk...just rma if so, bro


----------



## SAMiN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> Replacing oil lubrication on XF140 fan with motor oil, daamn..i think im falling in love with this trick. already three weeks past and this fan doing silencer and quiet faster now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this not broke & damage my XF140, and i dont bothered if i must replace motor oil inside XF140 in every month, as long as they work like a charm!


So what exactly you did? I tried applying some WD40 but can't see any difference! of curse I applied on XT140 not XF.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SAMiN*
> 
> So what exactly you did? I tried applying some WD40 but can't see any difference! of curse I applied on XT140 not XF.


never use wd40 to lubricate your fan bearing, or your fan will corroted and degradated in speed imho








you can read from this website about wd40, simple explanation about wd40









http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28893/wd40-bearing-lubricant

PS: im just drop some motor oil inside on the middle XF140, just 2-3 drop motor oil (maybe this work temporary but until now still works hehe )


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> Somewhat offtopic but about that picture.
> 
> How did you find that drawing? I've been searching LOTES and Foxconn F.I.T. product catalogs and I cannot find any technical specification of socket SP3.
> 
> In fact I'm quite frustrated how AMD is very closed with their design specification details for their latest sockets (AM4, SP3) while Intel openly publishes engineering specifications and design guidelines for all their sockets latest sockets such as LGA 3647 all available for download from their website including a .igs 3D mechanical reference of their heatsink and assemblies.
> 
> https://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/public/us/en/documents/product-briefs/xeon-phi-processor-x200-product-family-design-guide.pdf
> 
> If you did find a datasheet for the socket and thermal management design guidelines I'd like a link or copy of the specifications please. Thanks.


ThreadRipper 4 mount schematics
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/amd-x399-threadripper-tr4-socket,news-56335.html

I've found it can be just as hard to get details from Intel on their CPU specificatons, like mounting pressure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAEVULK*
> 
> I live in southern Italy, in the past I had a lot of heat sinks and never had any problems.
> 
> 3x Noctua Nh d 14
> 2x noctua nh d15
> 1x noctua nh u9s
> 1x noctua nh c14
> 1x noctua nh u12s
> 
> 2x Thermalright Silver Arrow
> 2x Thermalright macho
> 1x Thermalright archon
> 
> 1x bequiet dark rock pro 3
> 
> 1x cooler master v8
> 1x cooler master v8 gts
> 1x cooler master tcp 800
> 
> 2x Cryorig R1 ultimate
> 
> 0 PROBLEM WITH THESE


Impressive cooler list.








Would enjoy discussing your feeling about them in a new thread.

All I can say is I seriously doubt it's a Cryorig defect. That kind of corrosion is caused by like washing cooler in sink and not drying to completely before storing it, or being stored in a damp environment. Not a defect in cooler finish. I have had similar happen to me once, and the cause was being storing damp enviroment.

Cryorig has very good customer support, so if it gets worse talk to them again.

What @lastraiyzen99X2 said.








WD-40 is a water displacement solution. It works as a penetrating oil, but evaporates off in a few days. I prefer fine machine oil, like sewing machine oil or 3-in-One oil.


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> ThreadRipper 4 mount schematics
> http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/amd-x399-threadripper-tr4-socket,news-56335.html
> 
> I've found it can be just as hard to get details from Intel on their CPU specificatons, like mounting pressure.


Huge +Rep for ya! Been looking for specs of for SP3 SAM socket for about 2 weeks for a project. I'm Also trying to find AM4 socket specifications via mounting holes and elevation drawings.

As for Intel's specs like mounting pressure per socket type. I never had an issue finding those required parameters as you have to skim through their engineering datasheets to get some load values.

Heres one for LGA 3647.


----------



## Aggrotech

heres my glorious R1 Ultimate.


----------



## SAMiN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> never use wd40 to lubricate your fan bearing, or your fan will corroted and degradated in speed imho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you can read from this website about wd40, simple explanation about wd40
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28893/wd40-bearing-lubricant
> 
> PS: im just drop some motor oil inside on the middle XF140, just 2-3 drop motor oil (maybe this work temporary but until now still works hehe )


Well, I cleaned that WD40 as much as I could. Then I applied some Castrol engine oil







, well I think it runs little bit better? less noise!


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SAMiN*
> 
> Well, I cleaned that WD40 as much as I could. Then I applied some Castrol engine oil
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , well I think it runs little bit better? less noise!


hehehe, idk..maybe im just lucky with that trick


----------



## oOoBlackFishoOo

GUYS I WILL BUY R1 ULTIMATE WILL IT INTERFERE MY ASUS X370 BOARD OR WITH ME MEMORY Crucial Ballistix Tactical 8GB DDR4 3000 CL15


----------



## Hionmaiden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oOoBlackFishoOo*
> 
> GUYS I WILL BUY R1 ULTIMATE WILL IT INTERFERE MY ASUS X370 BOARD OR WITH ME MEMORY Crucial Ballistix Tactical 8GB DDR4 3000 CL15


think you'll need the universal version, I could be wrong, however.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oOoBlackFishoOo*
> 
> GUYS I WILL BUY R1 ULTIMATE WILL IT INTERFERE MY ASUS X370 BOARD OR WITH ME MEMORY Crucial Ballistix Tactical 8GB DDR4 3000 CL15


you'll be okay using R1 ultimate on X370 board, as long as you put RAM on slot A2 and B2 only. But if you want all ram slot populates, so no choice for you except take R1 universal as for your 1st choice


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aggrotech*
> 
> 
> heres my glorious R1 Ultimate.


Nice!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SAMiN*
> 
> Well, I cleaned that WD40 as much as I could. Then I applied some Castrol engine oil
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , well I think it runs little bit better? less noise!


Actually engine oil is thicker / heavier oil than should be used on fan bearings. Fine machine oil / sewing machine oil is better.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oOoBlackFishoOo*
> 
> GUYS I WILL BUY R1 ULTIMATE WILL IT INTERFERE MY ASUS X370 BOARD OR WITH ME MEMORY Crucial Ballistix Tactical 8GB DDR4 3000 CL15


As already said, get the R1 Universal, not the Ultimate.


----------



## SAMiN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Actually engine oil is thicker / heavier oil than should be used on fan bearings. Fine machine oil / sewing machine oil is better.


Yes that's true! totally make sense. I should visit grandma and ask her can I borrow little bit of her swing machine oil


----------



## oOoBlackFishoOo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice!
> Actually engine oil is thicker / heavier oil than should be used on fan bearings. Fine machine oil / sewing machine oil is better.
> As already said, get the R1 Universal, not the Ultimate.


the only available in my area r1 ultimate or noctua d15 s


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SAMiN*
> 
> Yes that's true! totally make sense. I should visit grandma and ask her can I borrow little bit of her swing machine oil


Don't be such a cheap .. guy .. and buy your own.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oOoBlackFishoOo*
> 
> the only available in my area r1 ultimate or noctua d15 s


What area is that with only 2 of the many top tier coolers available? Could you give us a couple of websites you can buy from?


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SAMiN*
> 
> Yes that's true! totally make sense. I should visit grandma and ask her can I borrow little bit of her swing machine oil


or you can use a vegetable oil for fan lubrication


----------



## Hionmaiden

Will have an upcoming finished build early October called the 'cryocube' Will feature all cryorig fans, including two A40 Ultimates, will post pics when it's all fully finished to show it off


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hionmaiden*
> 
> Will have an upcoming finished build early October called the 'cryocube' Will feature all cryorig fans, including two A40 Ultimates, will post pics when it's all fully finished to show it off


Look forward to seeing it.


----------



## oOoBlackFishoOo

please guys i need help i was haveing noctua u 12 and having max temperaturer was 82 or 83 and setting was ryzen 1700 @ 3850 at voltage 1.4 llc2 today i bought CRYORIG ULTIMATE R1 hoping it will be in 7x may be 75 or 77 at least and i do prime test for 20 min and reached 86 c i reinstalled the cooler 3 or 4 times no thing change please help me


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oOoBlackFishoOo*
> 
> please guys i need help i was haveing noctua u 12 and having max temperaturer was 82 or 83 and setting was ryzen 1700 @ 3850 at voltage 1.4 llc2 today i bought CRYORIG ULTIMATE R1 hoping it will be in 7x may be 75 or 77 at least and i do prime test for 20 min and reached 86 c i reinstalled the cooler 3 or 4 times no thing change please help me


Please use proper English. Whatever 'llc2' adn 'in 7x may be 75 or 77 at least and i do prime .. ' is supposed to mean.








If you start Prime and in 2-3 minutes it's 75c but keeps climbing for 20 min reaching 86c your case airflow needs work.


----------



## oOoBlackFishoOo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Please use proper English. Whatever 'llc2' adn 'in 7x may be 75 or 77 at least and i do prime .. ' is supposed to mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you start Prime and in 2-3 minutes it's 75c but keeps climbing for 20 min reaching 86c your case airflow needs work.


sorry for my english
in noctua u12 se i was getting 81 or 82
i have 200mm for air in
120 mm for air in
200m air out
120 air out
in my case haf 912 i should have 75 or 77 c not 86 !


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oOoBlackFishoOo*
> 
> sorry for my english
> in noctua u12 se i was getting 81 or 82
> i have 200mm for air in
> 120 mm for air in
> 200m air out
> 120 air out
> in my case haf 912 i should have 75 or 77 c not 86 !


Picture to see how the system is setup would be real useful.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oOoBlackFishoOo*
> 
> please guys i need help i was haveing noctua u 12 and having max temperaturer was 82 or 83 and setting was ryzen 1700 @ 3850 at voltage 1.4 llc2 today i bought CRYORIG ULTIMATE R1 hoping it will be in 7x may be 75 or 77 at least and i do prime test for 20 min and reached 86 c i reinstalled the cooler 3 or 4 times no thing change please help me


that bad setting!








sorry, im also using R7-1700 on my rig. If you want OC to 3.85 pls lower your vcore to 1.25-3, SOC set to 1.2.
Vcore 1.4, that really high for any Air cooler to hold heat release from cpu, even if you using R1 that also very risky.
(PS: if you need more depth about Ryzen OC, pls go to Ryzen OC in other topic in this forum Overclock







)


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oOoBlackFishoOo*
> 
> sorry for my english
> in noctua u12 se i was getting 81 or 82
> i have 200mm for air in
> 120 mm for air in
> 200m air out
> 120 air out
> in my case haf 912 i should have 75 or 77 c not 86 !


Ryzen 1700 can hold max temp 70 on Tctl temp (true temp), if more than that threshold temp, your CPU will very risky for long term daily use imho


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> Ryzen 1700 can hold max temp 70 on Tctl temp (true temp), if more than that threshold temp, your CPU will very risky for long term daily use imho


or you can put motor oil lubricant into your all fans, make them very quiet and rpm speed more faster! hehe


----------



## doyll

Light weight / fine machine oil / sewing machine / 3-in-One oil works better then motor oil.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> or you can put motor oil lubricant into your all fans, make them very quiet and rpm speed more faster! hehe


Another triple post, really? You can put multiple quotes in one post, and the edit button is a thing.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Light weight / fine machine oil / sewing machine / 3-in-One oil works better then motor oil.


i think so, but with motor oil i make extended life longer for my old corsair sp120 pwm (3 years old usage). No rattling sound noise after put drop some motor oil inside bearing (almost 1.5 months silent and speed rpm back to normal life







).


but for the next time maintenance, i will clean all motor oil residue inside sp120 bearing&blade and replace with sewing oil (singer oil). Will report further about performance comparison between use of sewing oil and motor oil.









thanks Chief Doyll


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Another triple post, really? You can put multiple quotes in one post, and the edit button is a thing.


sorry dude, lame thinking "Mode ON"!


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> sorry dude, lame thinking "Mode ON"!


He says while making another double post. Go clutter up your own threads, but keep your nonsense out of the others.


Spoiler: ...


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> He says while making another double post. Go clutter up your own threads, but keep your nonsense out of the others.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: ...


okay!


----------



## Shneiky

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9v5B79vdiXU

There are gains to be made. Hoping Cryorig does a TR4 R1. 11 C difference by using a full cover contact plate in the Noctua test. R1 with the proper plate has a chance of taking out most Asetek 240mm AIOs down for good.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> He says while making another double post. Go clutter up your own threads, but keep your nonsense out of the others.
> 
> 
> 
> okay!
Click to expand...

I think I would have to classify this as a tie. One the one hand, Gilles3000 posted a new post to complain about a double post. But ... on the other hand, he did get lastraiyzen99X2 to acknowledge that he was double posting. Finally, on the third hand, lastraiyzen99X2 posted another post containing that acknowledgement.

All up .. beautifully played the pair of you.

Now ... to get back on topic ... I seemed to remember that Cryorig was going to spend some R&D on their fans ... with the aim of improving them for radiators, speed control (they are already good on this) and noise. I would also like to see the ability of stopping the cryorig fans via low PWM.

Any news on that R&D?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9v5B79vdiXU
> 
> There are gains to be made. Hoping Cryorig does a TR4 R1. 11 C difference by using a full cover contact plate in the Noctua test. R1 with the proper plate has a chance of taking out most Asetek 240mm AIOs down for good.


I agree. Normal NH-U14S ran 10-11c hotter than NH-U14S TR4 edition. R1 and hopefully R5 with bases for TR4 would be nice.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I think I would have to classify this as a tie. One the one hand, Gilles3000 posted a new post to complain about a double post. But ... on the other hand, he did get lastraiyzen99X2 to acknowledge that he was double posting. Finally, on the third hand, lastraiyzen99X2 posted another post containing that acknowledgement.
> 
> All up .. beautifully played the pair of you.
> 
> Now ... to get back on topic ... I seemed to remember that Cryorig was going to spend some R&D on their fans ... with the aim of improving them for radiators, speed control (they are already good on this) and noise. I would also like to see the ability of stopping the cryorig fans via low PWM.
> 
> Any news on that R&D?


Im still wait until Cryorig release this one someday (if come true







, but i hope it will happen







)


If this next Gen R1 really give much improvement than old R1, pretty sure i will grab this one asap


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> Im still wait until Cryorig release this one someday (if come true
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but i hope it will happen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> If this next Gen R1 really give much improvement than old R1, pretty sure i will grab this one asap


I think it will be awhile before we see any R1 CU coolers. My guess is we will see something for TR4 next, maybe a R5 too.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I agree. Normal NH-U14S ran 10-11c hotter than NH-U14S TR4 edition. R1 and hopefully R5 with bases for TR4 would be nice.


I agree, an R1 would be epic over a ThreadRipper.... ^_^


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Hello there guys! I recently upgraded to a Ryzen setup and have my R1 hooked up to it. Problem is that my case, a cooler master storm enforcer, is not the best in the cable management department and I've been wanting to upgrade the case. What I'm looking for is a case with tempered glass sidepanel and great cable routing in which the R1 will fit inside and that it does not break the bank. Don't know if this is the correct thread to ask this, but since I'm building around my R1 guess its not entirely wrong to post here. Here is the mess that I have right now.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> Hello there guys! I recently upgraded to a Ryzen setup and have my R1 hooked up to it. Problem is that my case, a cooler master storm enforcer, is not the best in the cable management department and I've been wanting to upgrade the case. What I'm looking for is a case with tempered glass sidepanel and great cable routing in which the R1 will fit inside and that it does not break the bank. Don't know if this is the correct thread to ask this, but since I'm building around my R1 guess its not entirely wrong to post here. Here is the mess that I have right now.


The Fractal Meshify C would be a good choice, its available for €80/$90, Has good cable management and good airflow for the R1. If you were to get this one, I'd at least add another Fractal X2 GP-12 fan to the intake, or if you have any good 120mm or 140mm fans, you could use those.

Alternatively, there's also the Phanteks Pro M Tempered glass for €100/$100, but if your in the US it regularly drops to $80 on Newegg. It also has good cable management and good airflow, if you were to get it I'd move the two fans that come with it to the intake and get a Phanteks PH-F140MP for the rear exhaust or a good 140mm fan you might already own.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> Hello there guys! I recently upgraded to a Ryzen setup and have my R1 hooked up to it. Problem is that my case, a cooler master storm enforcer, is not the best in the cable management department and I've been wanting to upgrade the case. What I'm looking for is a case with tempered glass sidepanel and great cable routing in which the R1 will fit inside and that it does not break the bank. Don't know if this is the correct thread to ask this, but since I'm building around my R1 guess its not entirely wrong to post here. Here is the mess that I have right now.


What Gilles3000 said.
Just be warned the Fractal Design case fans are almost worthless .. are worthless at low speed .. meaning you can add $24-30 to cost of case for a couple good fans. This brings the cost up to more than Phanteks case costs and it comes with good fans. The Enthoo Pro M is not bad, but I prefer the Enthoo Pro or Luxe. They come with more fans and Luxe has a PWM controlled fan hub to control the case fans I know Luxe and Pro specs show 200mm front fan, but has been replaced with 2x 140mm fans that look like PH-F140SP housing with PH-F140MP impeller that work very well. They made this change over a year ago so no idea why they haven't changed it on their websites and on case boxes. Enthoo Pro M costs less but only comes with one fan so you would need to buy at least one more and Phanteks does not list new cases fans as an option.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What Gilles3000 said.
> This brings the cost up to more than Phanteks case costs and it comes with good fans.
> The Enthoo Pro M is not bad, but I prefer the Enthoo Pro or Luxe.
> Enthoo Pro M costs less but only comes with one fan so you would need to buy at least one more and Phanteks does not list new cases fans as an option.


Agreed the Enthoo Pro M is probably the better option considering the fans, knew the old basic fractal fans were pretty bad, didn't know the newer GP-12's were too.
Problem is that he wants the Tempered glass version, there is no TG version of the regular pro and the TG Luxe is $180, which I think classifies as breaking the bank.
The Pro M tempered glass comes with 2 fans, not 1.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Agreed the Enthoo Pro M is probably the better option considering the fans, knew the old basic fractal fans were pretty bad, didn't know the newer GP-12's were too.
> Problem is that he wants the Tempered glass version, there is no TG version of the regular pro and the TG Luxe is $180, which I think classifies as breaking the bank.
> The Pro M tempered glass comes with 2 fans, not 1.


My bad. You are correct, Enthoo Pro does not come in TG. Sure wish Pro did come in a TG version. Enthoo Pro M is not on same chassis as Enthoo Luxe and Pro .. Luxe has taller top and thicker front (235x560x550mm) compared to Pro (235x535x550mm) on same bigger chassis than Pro M (235x480x500mm) .. all WxHxD measuerements


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Thanks for the replies guys. . . I've looked at your recommendations and the one that caught my attention most was the Fractal Designs Meshify . The front fans will be replaced with Cryorig XT-140s as I already have one gathering dust since I took one off my R1 when I upgraded. I was holding out for the Cooler Master H500p that way announced back in late May? for its 2x200mm intakes but it never came out. is case you're wondering this is the thing I'm talking about.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> T I was holding out for the Cooler Master H500p that way announced back in late May*? for its 2x200mm intakes* but it never came out.


Not sure why you'd want 200mm fans, all of them range from awful to mediocre at best. Doubt those new 200mm CM RGB fans will be any different.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Not sure why you'd want 200mm fans, all of them range from awful to mediocre at best. Doubt those new 200mm CM RGB fans will be any different.


You beat me to it. I was really scratching my head over that one. And....its a Cooler Master case. Ugh.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

I was waiting for it but I'm going to get the Fractal Mesh the next paycheck(end of month :'( ). . . and I din't know that 200mm fans were not good; What make them awful?. I've had the one in my cm storm enforcer at full blast and can barely hear it and according to the fan tuning software it spins at 1050rpm at 100%


----------



## bajer29

Will the CRYORIG Ult. or Univ. clear my memory modules? Mobo is in my sig rig. Specifically the Ripjaws I'm using are *these*.

GSkill says *here* my DIMMs with hear spreaders are 40mm tall.

... or would I be better off with the be quiet! BK019 Dark Rock Pro 3.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Will the CRYORIG Ult. or Univ. clear my memory modules? Mobo is in my sig rig. Specifically the Ripjaws I'm using are *these*.
> 
> GSkill says *here* my DIMMs with hear spreaders are 40mm tall.
> 
> ... or would I be better off with the be quiet! BK019 Dark Rock Pro 3.


R1 Universal will clear, R1 Ultimate would require fan to be raised up so bottom off fan flush with bottom of cooler fan shroud.

Same applies to Dark Rock Pro 3.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> R1 Universal will clear, R1 Ultimate would require fan to be raised up so bottom off fan flush with bottom of cooler fan shroud.
> 
> Same applies to Dark Rock Pro 3.


Thank you for the info. Will moving the fan up on the Ult affect cooling at all?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Thank you for the info. Will moving the fan up on the Ult affect cooling at all?


It might have a slight effect but I doubt it will be enough to measure / see.


----------



## bajer29

OK, thanks again! Has anyone had any luck OCing a 4790K > 1.35V with this cooler? I'm not planning on it, but I'd like the option to push a bit of juice above the stock 1.25V for a bit of an OC later on. I'm really interested in replacing my tired, old CLC with air.


----------



## Faster is Better

Now for my question. Is Cryorig heatsinks fully support TR4 coverage or is it just mount kit?
I know Artic has released TR4 coolers.
Thanks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> Thanks for the replies guys. . . I've looked at your recommendations and the one that caught my attention most was the Fractal Designs Meshify . The front fans will be replaced with Cryorig XT-140s as I already have one gathering dust since I took one off my R1 when I upgraded. I was holding out for the Cooler Master H500p that way announced back in late May? for its 2x200mm intakes but it never came out. is case you're wondering this is the thing I'm talking about.


The case is still coming in Q4 2017. Myself waiting for it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Not sure why you'd want 200mm fans, all of them range from awful to mediocre at best. Doubt those new 200mm CM RGB fans will be any different.


Not true at all. I got too see it. This is not like the mega ones before. Airflow at nearly 50% was quiet strong. Big improvement.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You beat me to it. I was really scratching my head over that one. And....its a Cooler Master case. Ugh.


Nothing wrong with CM case. I like the look and feel.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster is Better*
> 
> Not true at all. I got too see it. This is not like the mega ones before. Airflow at nearly 50% was quiet strong. Big improvement.


You can see airflow? Cool story.

Unless you have independent testing data to back up your claims, your statement means jack all.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> OK, thanks again! Has anyone had any luck OCing a 4790K > 1.35V with this cooler? I'm not planning on it, but I'd like the option to push a bit of juice above the stock 1.25V for a bit of an OC later on. I'm really interested in replacing my tired, old CLC with air.


I have the R1 Ultimate cooling a 4790K with about 1.3V vcore / 4.7Ghz and it works well. My case is wide enough so the front fan can be raised up a little and clear the G.Skill RAM I have, which is even taller but had removable top fins.

 

I replaced the Cryorig XF 140 fans with Phantek fans because my Gigabyte board won't spin them down slower than 780 to 790 RPM and I can still hear them.

I have the R1 universal on the "wish it was mine" system in my sig and The same fans on an Asus Z170 board spin down to under 600 RPM and at 600 RPM I can not hear them.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> You can see airflow? Cool story.
> 
> Unless you have independent testing data to back up your claims, your statement means jack all.


Very rude of you.

As for your question, which. None of the Cryorig coolers have full TR4 coverage. Unless it has been change recently.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> I have the R1 Ultimate cooling a 4790K with about 1.3V vcore / 4.7Ghz and it works well. My case is wide enough so the front fan can be raised up a little and clear the G.Skill RAM I have, which is even taller but had removable top fins.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I replaced the Cryorig XF 140 fans with Phantek fans because my Gigabyte board won't spin them down slower than 780 to 790 RPM and I can still hear them.
> 
> I have the R1 universal on the "wish it was mine" system in my sig and The same fans on an Asus Z170 board spin down to under 600 RPM and at 600 RPM I can not hear them.


Thanks for the great info. Can you let me know what temps you're experiencing under full load/ gaming?


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Thanks for the great info. Can you let me know what temps you're experiencing under full load/ gaming?


When I ran stress tests for the overclock almost 2 years ago, it was with the Cryorig fans. My objectives were to set the OC that stayed under 1.3V and under 70C sustained temps.

This chip will run 4.8Ghz, but needs about 1.35 to 1.36 vCore and sustained temps were Mid 70sC. One core a little hotter at 77C-78C, or so ( this is from memory ) so I backed the OC off to 4.7 and right around 4.3. Maybe slightly above. I'll have to check.

I run adaptive voltage, with all the power saving settings enabled so it was a challenge to get it dialed in to be fast and stable but the cooler was never really a concern.

Once at 4.7G/1.3V the peak temps were low 70s, with the sustained line in the high 60s. The temps jump around abit.

I'll run up a game tonight and see where the temps come in. I recently bought the $5 version of star wars battlefront and need to learn how to play it.


----------



## PriestOfSin

https://valid.x86.fr/12ess4

Not too bad! Using the H5 Universal, man this cooler is slick. Max temp during Aida64 burn is 70C. Apartment is kept around 25C because I'm cheap, case is the Phanteks P400 TG w/ 4x Arctic 140mm fans, and 1x Arctic 120mm fan.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Very rude of you.
> 
> As for your question, which. None of the Cryorig coolers have full TR4 coverage. Unless it has been change recently.


I don't think rude but bluntly stated. I think Gilles3000 reply was to the point that 200mm fans are not much good, and that goes for new Noctua one as well. They simply don't have high enough pressure ratings. A single good 140mm will do almost as well as a 200mm at similar noise levels .. 2x 140mm fans are much better. Phantkes tried 200mm in some of their cases and ended up changing to 2x 140mm fans.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Very rude of you.


Rude? Maybe, but deservingly so. Guys like that are the reason people buy bad products, they go into threads recommending them with nothing to back up their claims.

I don't mind being told I'm wrong about something, but at least do so with a half decent argument. Not "Cuz I felt it" or "Cuz I could see the airflow" that's just downright offending.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> When I ran stress tests for the overclock almost 2 years ago, it was with the Cryorig fans. My objectives were to set the OC that stayed under 1.3V and under 70C sustained temps.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This chip will run 4.8Ghz, but needs about 1.35 to 1.36 vCore and sustained temps were Mid 70sC. One core a little hotter at 77C-78C, or so ( this is from memory ) so I backed the OC off to 4.7 and right around 4.3. Maybe slightly above. I'll have to check.
> 
> I run adaptive voltage, with all the power saving settings enabled so it was a challenge to get it dialed in to be fast and stable but the cooler was never really a concern.
> 
> Once at 4.7G/1.3V the peak temps were low 70s, with the sustained line in the high 60s. The temps jump around abit.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run up a game tonight and see where the temps come in. I recently bought the $5 version of star wars battlefront and need to learn how to play it.


Awesome, thanks again! I will more than likely pick on of these up. Let me know what gaming temps are like.


----------



## doyll

What Gilles3000 said about posts about 'feeling' more airlfow. Those kinds of post about 'feeling' airflow with no scientific data or testing done only lead people with no experience who are reading them into making bad decisions.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster is Better*
> 
> Now for my question. Is Cryorig heatsinks fully support TR4 coverage or is it just mount kit?
> I know Artic has released TR4 coolers.
> Thanks


I have not seen any updated mounting information for TR4 / SP3 from Cryorig for their air coolers. Cryorig A40, A40 Ultimate and A80 are made by Asetek. Even the entire Asetek base does not cover IHS or even the total area of CPU dies .. while area insice of 'O'-ring gasket is only a little over 41mm and actual midrofin area is only 30.5x25.5mm. While it will work it is definitely not optimum size and will not cool as well as it could if cooler base is bigger. Noctua NH-U14S-TR4-SP3 (Threadripper cooler) base covers entire IHS and cools 10.5-11c better than normal based NH-U14S does on Threadripper.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Rude? Maybe, but deservingly so. Guys like that are the reason people buy bad products, they go into threads recommending them with nothing to back up their claims.
> 
> I don't mind being told I'm wrong about something, but at least do so with a half decent argument. Not "Cuz I felt it" or "Cuz I could see the airflow" that's just downright offending.


Exactly. It was direct, not rude. And there are times you just don't feel the need to explain yourself when replying to magic dust & unicorn posts. It gets wearing after doing it a few hundred times.


----------



## Faster is Better

No bad decision here at all. I am just stating the new 200mm masterflow has better improvement over the old megaflow.
Should see some good uses with the new H550P.

Do not care for the A series clc. Asetek should just shut down.
My TR4 build is coming end of month, want a good air cooling. Will be under load majority of the time.
Other system here all have Cryorig coolers.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Rude? Maybe, but deservingly so. Guys like that are the reason people buy bad products, they go into threads recommending them with nothing to back up their claims.
> 
> I don't mind being told I'm wrong about something, but at least do so with a half decent argument. Not "Cuz I felt it" or "Cuz I could see the airflow" that's just downright offending.


It was rude. You initially made an unqualified statement ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> T I was holding out for the Cooler Master H500p that way announced back in late May*? for its 2x200mm intakes* but it never came out.
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure why you'd want 200mm fans, all of them range from awful to mediocre at best. Doubt those new 200mm CM RGB fans will be any different.
Click to expand...

... by expressing doubt about the new 200mm CM fans without quoting any evidence of such. He called you on it ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster is Better*
> 
> Not true at all. I got too see it. This is not like the mega ones before. Airflow at nearly 50% was quiet strong. Big improvement.


... by saying they had changed. Note his categorization of airflow was very non-scientific and almost everyone would read it as such.

And then you slammed him for quoting non scientific information without any reference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Unless you have independent testing data to back up your claims, your statement means jack all.


I don't see much differences from an unsupported, non-scientific point of view between his comment "_Airflow at nearly 50% was quiet strong. Big improvement._" and your comment "_Doubt those new 200mm CM RGB fans will be any different._"


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Awesome, thanks again! I will more than likely pick on of these up. Let me know what gaming temps are like.


Ok, I suck at video games, but I trained for about 30 minutes in Beggar's canyon of star wars battle front and the peak temp according to HWiNFO64 was 70C on one core, 65/64/64 on the other three cores.

CPU: 4.7 Ghz

VID: 1.301v on two cores and 1.299v on the other two.

VCore: 1.320v per motherboard sensor

hope that helps.


----------



## bajer29

Awesome, it does. Thank you.

EDIT: I think I need a bigger case...







Also, this cooler is so much quieter than my H100i with stock fans.


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Awesome, it does. Thank you.
> 
> EDIT: I think I need a bigger case...


you can use Phantom 630 case if need a bigger case, i have one..so damn large case


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastraiyzen99X2*
> 
> you can use Phantom 630 case if need a bigger case, i have one..so damn large case


Isn't the Phantom 820 more deserving of the "way too big" title?







still can't believe how huge mine is (says the guy who wants to get one that's even bigger)


----------



## bajer29

This it would fit in a HAF XB EVO LAN box?


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> This it would fit in a HAF XB EVO LAN box?


Yes the XB can supports cooler height up to 180mm. However, not with the near-useless happily-optional top mounted airflow-disturbance 200mm fan.

The trick with the XB tho is modding the front bezel to allow reasonably unrestricted intake air flow - as well as replacing the horrid CM 1200mm sleeve bearing intake fans with a pair of high quality 140mm fans. Also cutting out the rear fan grill and removing pci slot covers can turn the XB in to a very good air flow case.

After modding my XB there is a 1-2c temperature gradient between ambient temp and internal temp at the intake fan of the cooler.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> Yes the XB can supports cooler height up to 180mm. However, not with the near-useless happily-optional top mounted airflow-disturbance 200mm fan.
> 
> The trick with the XB tho is modding the front bezel to allow reasonably unrestricted intake air flow - as well as replacing the horrid CM 1200mm sleeve bearing intake fans with a pair of high quality 140mm fans. Also cutting out the rear fan grill and removing pci slot covers can turn the XB in to a very good air flow case.
> 
> After modding my XB there is a 1-2c temperature gradient between ambient temp and internal temp at the intake fan of the cooler.


Yeah, I wasn't planning on mounting any fans in the top of the case. Good info, though. I'll look into this case. There aren't many comparable "bench-like" chassis at the XB's price-point. I might have to get one and mod it as you suggested. Do you have pics of the mods you performed on your XB?


----------



## MicroCat

Here's a couple from the archives. It was a pretty simple mod:

Remove the excess diagonal plastic on the hideous plastic bezel that sits behind the intake grille area.

Stock plastic bezel behind intake grille:

(Not my case - from the HAF XB thread here on OCN )

After pic:



Threw away the stock filters and made a custom dust filter from a honeywell 1st stage air purifier. Initially used a Demciflex, but a little too restrictive - although recommend their full XB kit for all the other open vent areas - top and sides.



Cut away as much of the metal in the intake fan area as possible. Cover intake area with craft foam to seal all the small leaky holes and the ratty metal cutting skills.

Use the stock 120mm fans as shroud donors - mount the 140mm fans (with 120mm hole spacing - Noc A15s in my case) to the newly created shrouds. Mount shrouded fans on case using a bad attitude and words. And a couple screws.



The benefit I found from the shrouded intake fans is less frontal noise - fans aren't pushed up against the grille. And the intake fans are closer to the cooler intake and GPU - helps with the air flow. That and at the time I only had 140mm intake fans with 120mm mounts so necessity became the 'optimal' solution. ;-)

I plan at some point to create a custom front bezel for the XB. I love the versatility of this case, but the plastic front bezel is tacky in the way that only cheap molded plastic can be.


----------



## bajer29

Awesome walkthrough! Thanks for posting. I'll def reference this when I pull the trigger on the case








Quote:


> The benefit I found from the shrouded intake fans is less frontal noise - fans aren't pushed up against the grille. And the intake fans are closer to the cooler intake and GPU - helps with the air flow. That and at the time I only had 140mm intake fans with 120mm mounts so necessity became the 'optimal' solution. ;-)


Makes sense!


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> I think I need a bigger case...


There are actually smaller cases that can comfortably fit the R1 Ultimate and a long GPU, like the Fractal Define C and Jonsbo U4.


----------



## Dan-H

H7 on sale at newegg for $29.90 https://flash.newegg.com/search?keyword=9SIA4UF2DZ6565


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> Yes the XB can supports cooler height up to 180mm. However, not with the near-useless happily-optional top mounted airflow-disturbance 200mm fan.
> 
> The trick with the XB tho is modding the front bezel to allow reasonably unrestricted intake air flow - as well as replacing the horrid CM 1200mm sleeve bearing intake fans with a pair of high quality 140mm fans. Also cutting out the rear fan grill and removing pci slot covers can turn the XB in to a very good air flow case.
> 
> After modding my XB there is a 1-2c temperature gradient between ambient temp and internal temp at the intake fan of the cooler.


I'm about ready to pull the trigger as the XB has a $15 off rebate currently and I have a $20 gift card.

I just want to make sure you've tested fitting the R1 Ultimate with one of the fans lifted for RAM clearance. One of my fans is lifted. CRYORIG states with a lifted fan, you'll need 178mm. Seems like it might be a close fit. Just want to make sure before I purchased.


----------



## MicroCat

How high is the ram? Mine is normal height (33mm) so the front fan is raised a little with 12-15mm clearance up top. This is on a D15 - my R1 is in a different rig atm. For ram clearance the front fan on the R1 sits about 3mm higher than a D15, but still should be enough clearance. For the record, the R1 is 168mm with front fan lifted for ram clearance - normal ram.

However, with fancy reach-for-the-sky RAM sinks, clearance could be an issue. Or not. With the front intake fan mounted with a shroud, the front fan on the cooler isn't vital - about 1-2c difference at load. The R1S can work as well as the D15S.


----------



## bajer29

I took the 178mm max measurements off of the "R1 Ultimate Fan & Ram Clearance" sheet from OP. My fan is lifted, but it's not topping out.

My RipJawZ DIMMs are 40mm according to G.Skill. If that's correct and your assumptions are correct, then I'm within the 180mm threshold for the XB. I'm just not sitting next to my computer atm so it's difficult for me to say. I'll physically measure after work before ordering.

If I don't need as much clearance and comes out to less than 170mm without the front fan then I'll probably go with a Corsair 270R and call it a day.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> I took the 178mm max measurements off of the "R1 Ultimate Fan & Ram Clearance" sheet from OP. My fan is lifted, but it's not topping out.
> 
> My RipJawZ DIMMs are 40mm according to G.Skill. If that's correct and your assumptions are correct, then I'm within the 180mm threshold for the XB. I'm just not sitting next to my computer atm so it's difficult for me to say. I'll physically measure after work before ordering.
> 
> If I don't need as much clearance and comes out to less than 170mm without the front fan then I'll probably go with a Corsair 270R and call it a day.


If fan is mounted flush with top of R1 cooler which is 167mm from top of CPU, there is clearance for RAM up to 32mm tall.

If fan is mounted flush with bottom of R1 cooler it is 178mm from top of CPU, there is clearance for RAM up to 43mm tall.

RipjawsZ is 40mm.
178mm to top of fan (fan flush with bottom of cooler shroud) leaves 38mm between top of CPU and bottom of cooler shroud.
Add 5mm to that (top of CPU is 8mm above motherboard and RAM socket raise RAM 2-3mm above motherboard) and we have clearance for RAM up to 43mm tall with fan flush with bottom of cooler.

Your HAF XB case has 180mm from top of CPU so you have 5mm clearance to play with for fan above RAM. I would set the fan almost touching RAM.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If fan is mounted flush with top of R1 cooler which is 167mm from top of CPU, there is clearance for RAM up to 32mm tall.
> 
> If fan is mounted flush with bottom of R1 cooler it is 178mm from top of CPU, there is clearance for RAM up to 43mm tall.
> 
> RipjawsZ is 40mm.
> 178mm to top of fan (fan flush with bottom of cooler shroud) leaves 38mm between top of CPU and bottom of cooler shroud.
> Add 5mm to that (top of CPU is 8mm above motherboard and RAM socket raise RAM 2-3mm above motherboard) and we have clearance for RAM up to 43mm tall with fan flush with bottom of cooler.
> 
> Your HAF XB case has 180mm from top of CPU so you have 5mm clearance to play with for fan above RAM. I would set the fan almost touching RAM.


Thanks for clarifying


----------



## chardmain

Is it possible to install fan on Cryorig R1 without frame/cover attached to it?

Thanks


----------



## Aggrotech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chardmain*
> 
> Is it possible to install fan on Cryorig R1 without frame/cover attached to it?
> 
> Thanks


maybe if you have different mounting hardware...i just checked mine, from wut i can tell it mounts directly behind the frame...so id say it needs it


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chardmain*
> 
> Is it possible to install fan on Cryorig R1 without frame/cover attached to it?
> 
> Thanks


As Aggrotech said, fan clips attach to plastic shroud, so you would have to come up with some other mounting systems .. and probably need some thicker mounting pads to space fan properly away from cooler fins.

I don't understand why you want to remove the shroud. the front half of each finpack (covered by shroud) are silver with black back half showing behind shroud.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> As Aggrotech said, fan clips attach to plastic shroud, so you would have to come up with some other mounting systems .. and probably need some thicker mounting pads to space fan properly away from cooler fins.
> 
> I don't understand why you want to remove the shroud. the front half of each finpack (covered by shroud) are silver with black back half showing behind shroud.


Oakland Raiders themed build, perhaps?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Oakland Raiders themed build, perhaps?


Possilbe, or maybe NBA San Antonio Spurs


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Possilbe, or maybe NBA San Antonio Spurs


Or Colorado Rockies. Could use purple LEDs with that.


----------



## chardmain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aggrotech*
> 
> maybe if you have different mounting hardware...i just checked mine, from wut i can tell it mounts directly behind the frame...so id say it needs it


Thanks for checking it out








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> As Aggrotech said, fan clips attach to plastic shroud, so you would have to come up with some other mounting systems .. and probably need some thicker mounting pads to space fan properly away from cooler fins.
> 
> I don't understand why you want to remove the shroud. the front half of each finpack (covered by shroud) are silver with black back half showing behind shroud.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Oakland Raiders themed build, perhaps?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Possilbe, or maybe NBA San Antonio Spurs


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Or Colorado Rockies. Could use purple LEDs with that.


Actually because of this -> https://youtu.be/QJs2CRWYsBw

He removed the plastic shroud but there's still fan installed on it. I'm trying to figure out how did he do it because it looks cool


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chardmain*
> 
> Thanks for checking it out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually because of this -> https://youtu.be/QJs2CRWYsBw
> 
> He removed the plastic shroud but there's still fan installed on it. I'm trying to figure out how did he do it because it looks cool


Have you tried asking Luke who did the video how he did it?


----------



## EpicSurvivor

Surprised the Cryorig M9i is not included on this thread is the reason because its so small and cheap?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicSurvivor*
> 
> Surprised the Cryorig M9i is not included on this thread is the reason because its so small and cheap?


It simply came out later. This thread is an "all things Cryorig" thread. The M9i is mentioned along the way.


----------



## EpicSurvivor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It simply came out later. This thread is an "all things Cryorig" thread. The M9i is mentioned along the way.


Right on! Well I don't really do this for views to be honest, my channel sucks, my content sucks, this video presentation sucks but I did a video on the Cryorig M9i for my Rig. If anyone is curious and watches it there is no need to watch the Whole video, the Timeline is on the Description, just skip to the Results.









Here is my homemade video on the Cryorig M9i


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicSurvivor*
> 
> Surprised the Cryorig M9i is not included on this thread is the reason because its so small and cheap?


There are many Cryorig products not in thread title because title space is not big enough for all products to be listed. For example H7, M9i, C7, H7 Quad Lumi, A40, A40 Ultimate, A80, QF140, QF120, Cryo-Paste, Customod Covers for R1, etc. are not in the title, but all are discussed here.









M9i is a great little cooler. Thanks for posting your video.


----------



## Gdourado

Hello,

I would like to know if the R1 Ultimate, with the fans at the stock height, can clear Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 diims on a Z170 or Z270 board.

Anyone runs such a configuration that can provide confirmation please?

Thanks.
Cheers!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gdourado*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I would like to know if the R1 Ultimate, with the fans at the stock height, can clear Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 diims on a Z170 or Z270 board.
> 
> Anyone runs such a configuration that can provide confirmation please?
> 
> Thanks.
> Cheers!


I believe LPX is 34.4mm tall. That would be 29.4mm above top of CPU and bottom of fan. Answer is yes, fan set a couple mm avoe center of cooler fshroud will clear RAM. Top of fan will be about 169-170mm above top of CPU, so as long as your case ahs 169-170mm CPU clearance everything will fit.


----------



## Kenpachi7144

I currently have the corsair vengeance LPX installed on my x370 taichi and the first stick is completely under the fan.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> I currently have the corsair vengeance LPX installed on my x370 taichi and the first stick is completely under the fan.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Maybe it's an optical illusion, but isn't your fan raised to clear the memory?

Also, clean your computer


----------



## Kenpachi7144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Maybe it's an optical illusion, but isn't your fan raised to clear the memory?
> 
> Also, clean your computer


Optical illusion I hope. . . Bottom of fan and ram are not even close. Plus there is no stopping that dust, I clean my pc every 3-4 months and its about time already. My room is dusty af that sometimes I don't even bother cleaning anything besides the R1,GPU and intake filter.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> Optical illusion I hope. . . Bottom of fan and ram are not even close. Plus there is no stopping that dust, I clean my pc every 3-4 months and its about time already. My room is dusty af that sometimes I don't even bother cleaning anything besides the R1,GPU and intake filter.


Huh, doesn't look like the fan shroud and top of the cooling tower are lined up. I'll take your word for it









Yeah, that's a pretty dusty room. Do you live in AZ or something?


----------



## Gdourado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> I currently have the corsair vengeance LPX installed on my x370 taichi and the first stick is completely under the fan.


I was hoping it would fit as I prefer the ultimate vs the universal.
I guess the universal is only needed with gskill ram like the trident z that have taller heatspreaders.

Thanks.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenpachi7144*
> 
> I currently have the corsair vengeance LPX installed on my x370 taichi and the first stick is completely under the fan.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You can move the ram from 1/3 slot to 2/4. This will give you more room.
Also move your GPU down to keep it not being close to CPU to help with airflow and temps.


----------



## Shneiky

https://www.kitguru.net/channel/generaltech/damien-cox/cryorig-sends-out-profane-tweet-aimed-at-cooler-master/

This is nowhere near the professionalism Cryorig makes use of with their products. A bit of a let down.


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> https://www.kitguru.net/channel/generaltech/damien-cox/cryorig-sends-out-profane-tweet-aimed-at-cooler-master/
> 
> This is nowhere near the professionalism Cryorig makes use of with their products. A bit of a let down.


Yea , I saw that too,and found it not to be representative of Cryorig's image so far,to say the least..

But,I bet that one tweet from one employee cannot do permanent harm to a company with quality products and customer service as immaculate as Cryorig's..but I believe that some heads might roll..

It's one bad moment on social media , and God knows , everybody's had 'em,lol

It's what you do after that defines your ethics,if you will,as a company in a competitive market..

..my


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> https://www.kitguru.net/channel/generaltech/damien-cox/cryorig-sends-out-profane-tweet-aimed-at-cooler-master/
> 
> This is nowhere near the professionalism Cryorig makes use of with their products. A bit of a let down.


You are being very unprofessional by spreading this kind of gossip.

Are you really so naive that you will believe a single source of this kind of claim?

Obviously you are because a quick Google of "Cryorig tweet Coolermaster" shows kitguru as only source of this.

Get your head out of the brown hole in the ground and verify things before you start spreading false news!

Kitguru posts a pic claiming it was was supposedly tweeted by Cryorig but no link to actual tweet or any supporting data. Nothing but image and lots of talk

Sorry, but as far as I'm concerned it's nothing but fake news .. possibly all done by kitguru to cause trouble. Nothing new, lots and lots of fake news out there on social media these days.

You are no better. Chicken Little yells 'Cryorig ?!&@ Coolermaster in a picture" counting on all the idiots on internet will jump up and re-posting it without even thinking to check and see if there is even a thread of evidence of it being real.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> Yea , I saw that too,and found it not to be representative of Cryorig's image so far,to say the least..
> 
> But,I bet that one tweet from one employee cannot do permanent harm to a company with quality products and customer service as immaculate as Cryorig's..but I believe that some heads might roll..
> 
> It's one bad moment on social media , and God knows , everybody's had 'em,lol
> 
> It's what you do after that defines your ethics,if you will,as a company in a competitive market..
> 
> ..my


You are no better than Shneiky. I'll sell you the moon and put it on a pedistal in your back yard tomorrow. Do you believe me? No? Well then why are you believing kitguru?


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You are no better. Chicken Little yells 'Cryorig ?!&@ Coolermaster in a picture" counting on all the idiots on internet will jump up and re-posting it without even thinking to check and see if there is even a thread of evidence of it being real.
> You are no better than Shneiky. I'll sell you the moon and put it on a pedistal in your back yard tomorrow. Do you believe me? No? Well then why are you believing kitguru?


I just commented on how that incident is very unlike Cryorig..I don't believe everything I see online at first glance,and after looking around I saw that only KitGuru indeed posted that , but that didn't change my feelings on the matter..At least to the point to edit my post..Kitguru themselves said that an "official" announcement from Cryorig is to be expected , so I took it with a grain of salt..

I did not retweet or otherwise spread what KitGuru is saying,I just expressed my opinion


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> I just commented on how that incident is very unlike Cryorig..I don't believe everything I see online at first glance,and after looking around I saw that only KitGuru indeed posted that , but that didn't change my feelings on the matter..At least to the point to edit my post..Kitguru themselves said that an "official" announcement from Cryorig is to be expected , so I took it with a grain of salt..
> 
> I did not retweet or otherwise spread what KitGuru is saying,I just expressed my opinion


Settle, he was going after Shneiky for spreading potentially untrue tweets/ information. I'd imagine if he was going after your comment he would have quoted it.


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Settle, he was going after Shneiky, I'd imagine if he was going after your comment he would have quoted it.


He did quote me tho









And there's nothing to settle-I'm not offended or anything,I just want to put out where I'm coming from on that matter


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> I just commented on how that incident is very unlike Cryorig..I don't believe everything I see online at first glance,and after looking around I saw that only KitGuru indeed posted that , but that didn't change my feelings on the matter..At least to the point to edit my post..Kitguru themselves said that an "official" announcement from Cryorig is to be expected , so I took it with a grain of salt..
> 
> I did not retweet or otherwise spread what KitGuru is saying,I just expressed my opinion


More than a grain of salt by even half believing kitguru.

At this point I'm not believing anything out of kitguru because there is not a single piece of proof supporting his claim.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> He did quote me tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And there's nothing to settle-I'm not offended or anything,I just want to put out where I'm coming from on that matter


What the heck... how did I miss that? I was so focused on the original post about the tweet. Regardless, it's probably bunk and the employee responsible will be punished, if true. I would bet there will be an official CRYORIG apology soon enough.


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> More than a grain of salt by even half believing kitguru.
> 
> At this point I'm not believing anything out of kitguru because there is not a single piece of supporting data.


I believe what I read,not that it is true,but that I indeed read it..Now how much weight I gave to KItGuru's claims or anyone did for that matter,is not something that can be easily ascertained from one post..

I'm sorry if what I'm saying isn't making sense,English is not my native language afterall
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> What the heck... how did I miss that? I was so focused on the original post about the tweet. Regardless, it's probably bunk and the employee responsible will be punished, if true. I would bet there will be an official CRYORIG apology soon enough.


No harm done , my feelings exactly


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> I believe what I read,not that it is true,but that I indeed read it..Now how much weight I gave to KItGuru's claims or anyone did for that matter,is not something that can be easily ascertained from one post..
> 
> I'm sorry if what I'm saying isn't making sense,English is not my native language afterall
> No harm done , my feelings exactly


Point is we cannot believe what we read. And if we repeat it without verifying it as fact or fiction we are just spreading gossip .. and we all know how untrue most gossip is.

The internet is full of fake/false news .. and every time one of use re-posts it we are to put it bluntly spreading false new.

Best bet is not believe is to not believe what we read until we have evidence that it is true .. and then make sure the evidence is really evidence and not more untruth.









And your English is better than many native English speaking posters.


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Point is we cannot believe what we read. And if we repeat it without verifying it as fact or fiction we are just spreading gossip .. and we all know how untrue most gossip is.
> 
> The internet is full of fake/false news .. and every time one of use re-posts it we are to put it bluntly spreading false new.
> 
> Best bet is not believe is to not believe what we read until we have evidence that it is true .. and then make sure the evidence is really evidence and not more untruth.


Very true,and that's how I try to conduct myself online even tho it was not made very clear by my post , apparently..

Goes to show us that even a large site like KitGuru can,and will resolve to clickbait when it suits them I guess


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> Very true,and that's how I try to conduct myself online even tho it was not made very clear by my post , apparently..
> 
> Goes to show us that even a large site like KitGuru can,and will resolve to clickbait when it suits them I guess


For sure! "Clickbait" is exactly what it is.








When the fish are hungry they will jump out of the water to grab an empty hook.








By pubishing what they did kitguru lost my respect. Even if it did happen, it would be better to let Crorig know and let them deal with it. Cryorig is a very good company in my opinion. Good products, good support, and trying hard to make even better products. Gossip / false news is far too easy to start and almost impossible to stop. Too many people believe what the want to, not what is true .. and giving then anything is much worse than nothing.


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> For sure! "Clickbait" is exactly what it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the fish are hungry they will jump out of the water to grab an empty hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By pubishing what they did kitguru lost my respect. Even if it did happen, it would be better to let Crorig know and let them deal with it. Cryorig is a very good company in my opinion. Good products, good support, and trying hard to make even better products. Gossip / false news is far too easy to start and almost impossible to stop. Too many people believe what the want to, not what is true .. and giving then anything is much worse than nothing.


Unfortunately that's the way it is , at least nowadays ..

I agree that given their own reputation , they should have given a company like Cryorig the benefit of the doubt , and let them hear about this first,before going public with it that is..

The red flag,at least for me was,why Coolermaster in particular?Why not noctua or BeQuiet! or something?That led me into the realisation after searching around ,that only KitGuru had that posted that on their site,and for the life of me,I could not find the said tweet no matter how much I searched..

It's sad tho,that the amount of research you have to do in our line of hobby to reach a true fact has increased tenfold , because of all of these clickbaits,"techtubers" and everyone looking into their own interests first and then the community's..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> And your English is better than many native English speaking posters.


Thank you kindly , appreciate it


----------



## Melcar

Huh, I would have guessed Cryorig considered themselves more in competition to the likes of someone like Noctua rather than Cooler Master.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> Unfortunately that's the way it is , at least nowadays ..
> 
> I agree that given their own reputation , they should have given a company like Cryorig the benefit of the doubt , and let them hear about this first,before going public with it that is..
> 
> The red flag,at least for me was,why Coolermaster in particular?Why not noctua or BeQuiet! or something?That led me into the realisation after searching around ,that only KitGuru had that posted that on their site,and for the life of me,I could not find the said tweet no matter how much I searched..
> 
> It's sad tho,that the amount of research you have to do in our line of hobby to reach a true fact has increased tenfold , because of all of these clickbaits,"techtubers" and everyone looking into their own interests first and then the community's..
> Thank you kindly , appreciate it


And away you go again.
You just jump on the 'clickbait' like a starving fish going for a bare hook!








You just did it again, talking like kitguru is telling the truth when we have absolutely nothing but a picture of a monitor in the background with no knowledge of it's source, was it photoshopped ,, or taken by someone other than Cryorig?
We have nothing that supports kitguru's claim it is even a Cryorig picture.

Yet you are going after Cryorig like a rabid dog after a rabbit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> Huh, I would have guessed Cryorig considered themselves more in competition to the likes of someone like Noctua rather than Cooler Master.


And another rabbid dog takes the 'clickbait' rabbit.


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> And away you go again.


I simply cannot see how you can come to that conclusion from my post,but I digress..

Cryorig is above all this stuff,in my mind at least,and I will be keeping an eye out to see how they will react to such a blatant plagiarism on social media as a company..

Generally,as a person, I'm not keen on going after any hooks nor rabbits,lol

I explained what made me suspicious of their post,and afterwards analyzed my opinion on that..I _don't_ believe that what they posted is true,I _just_ believe that I indeed saw it _only_ on their site..Now where they found that said image or from whom,as it stands,is still a mystery..I only wish,as I said before,that considering their own reputation they should have acted differently before posting what they did..


----------



## Shneiky

@doyll,

I am a bit surprised on your ''harshness'' - quite contrary to the solid and analyzing posture i have know you for, over the years on this forum.

I brought that link up, because even if it is a click bait - many not so informed users might boycott Cryorig because of it. I do not want that to happen. I stand by Cryorig and their products. I want them to expand their professionalism in other areas. I want them and wish to them successes in everything they do. And for that to happen - they need to sell.

I know Cryorig officials dwell in this forum. By posting that link (fake news, clickbait or whatever you call it) I was just seeking a response. For all we know - that might have been an accident, might have been even a composite by Cooler Master or Kitguru, might have been made by an user or anything, really.

I am not going against Cryorig, nor am I "mindless clickbait fishy". I would like that to be resolved by Cryorig official in the professional manner they deal with their products. Because if Cryorig proves that was done to harm their image - they win. And I want them to win.

As I said - I stand by Cryorig products. I even forced a local PC-store to start getting them in stock, because I was always nagging about them. To imply that I wish to harm Cryorig is not true.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> I simply cannot see how you can come to that conclusion from my post,but I digress..
> 
> Cryorig is above all this stuff,in my mind at least,and I will be keeping an eye out to see how they will react to such a blatant plagiarism on social media as a company..
> 
> Generally,as a person, I'm not keen on going after any hooks nor rabbits,lol
> 
> I explained what made me suspicious of their post,and afterwards analyzed my opinion on that..I _don't_ believe that what they posted is true,I _just_ believe that I indeed saw it _only_ on their site..Now where they found that said image or from whom,as it stands,is still a mystery..I only wish,as I said before,that considering their own reputation they should have acted differently before posting what they did..


Your wording
"The red flag,at least for me was,why Coolermaster in particular?Why not noctua or BeQuiet! or something?That led me into the realisation after searching around ,that only KitGuru had that posted that on their site,and for the life of me,I could not find the said tweet no matter how much I searched.."

can be interpreted as if the kitguru clickbait post might be true.

It is very easy for others reading something with an unproven statement in it to think person repeating it is inferring it is true. That is how gossip is .. and why I hate it so vehemently. If you have ever had someone gossip about you or someone you know maybe you would better understand why I jump on anything that might spread this gossip / clickbait.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> @doyll,
> 
> I am a bit surprised on your ''harshness'' - quite contrary to the solid and analyzing posture i have know you for, over the years on this forum.
> 
> I brought that link up, because even if it is a click bait - many not so informed users might boycott Cryorig because of it. I do not want that to happen. I stand by Cryorig and their products. I want them to expand their professionalism in other areas. I want them and wish to them successes in everything they do. And for that to happen - they need to sell.
> 
> I know Cryorig officials dwell in this forum. By posting that link (fake news, clickbait or whatever you call it) I was just seeking a response. For all we know - that might have been an accident, might have been even a composite by Cooler Master or Kitguru, might have been made by an user or anything, really.
> 
> I am not going against Cryorig, nor am I "mindless clickbait fishy". I would like that to be resolved by Cryorig official in the professional manner they deal with their products. Because if Cryorig proves that was done to harm their image - they win. And I want them to win.
> 
> As I said - I stand by Cryorig products. I even forced a local PC-store to start getting them in stock, because I was always nagging about them. To imply that I wish to harm Cryorig is not true.


By posting the link you are spreading this story that seems to be nothing but malicious gossip / clickbait.

If you are really concerned and what to let Cryorig know about it (I emailed them about it) the go to their website, click on 'Support' at top of page or 'Contact Us and send an email about what you found. Just don't post up on open forum because that is only spreading it more, and if it is untrue as I suspect it is that is only adding to the malicious gossip / clickbait problem.

Anything anyone posts that in any way makes the kitguru post look in any way like it might be real is in fact spreading malicious gossip! So unless you have some proof that kitguru clickbait is based on something that actually happened you are doing nothing but making false assumption with no supporting evidence.

Simple as that.

I spend about 30 minutes on Twitter going back through Crorig's thread and did not find the image kitguru posted on his website .. and that is all the way back to 1 June 2017.

Also tried finding anything about it by googling it every way I could think of .. only kitguru website comes up. To me that pretty well proves 99.9999% likely nothing but malicious gossip / clickbait started by kitguru.


----------



## ciarlatano

You all need to get over it. It's a tweet. Who gives a rat's behind.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You all need to get over it. It's a tweet. Who gives a rat's behind.


I believe it is not a tweet at all, but only gossip / clickbait.
I tried and cannot find a single bit of evidence that supports kitguru website post. Not a single thing.

But than you for proved my point about gossip / clickbait .. I'm guessing you clicked on link to kitguru Shneiky posted too .. I did.









Your post said 'it's a tweet' but we have absolutely nothing supporting that it is in fact anything but something kitguru made up!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I believe it is not a tweet at all, but only gossip / clickbait.
> I tried and cannot find a single bit of evidence that supports kitguru website post. Not a single thing.
> 
> But than you for proved my point about gossip / clickbait .. I'm guessing you clicked on link to kitguru Shneiky posted too .. I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your post said 'it's a tweet' but we have absolutely nothing supporting that it is in fact anything but something kitguru made up!


No, I didn't bother clicking on the link. Because it's a (rumored) tweet, and I don't give a rat's behind.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No, I didn't bother clicking on the link. Because it's a (rumored) tweet, and I don't give a rat's behind.


LOL
Did you fall out of bed and need another cup of coffee or is it just a bad day?







I've been playing with H7 Quad Lumi and have to say it's better than 3x heatpipe H7. I'm not using the RGB lighting.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> LOL
> Did you fall out of bed and need another cup of coffee or is it just a bad day?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been playing with H7 Quad Lumi and have to say it's better than 3x heatpipe H7. I'm not using the RGB lighting.


Nah....just too many ridiculous arguments about nothing around here.


----------



## WexleySnoops

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Nah....just too many ridiculous arguments about nothing around here.


Here here.

The topic is Cryorig cooler's, not Cryorig said this or that and it's making me upset.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WexleySnoops*
> 
> Here here.
> 
> The topic is Cryorig cooler's, not Cryorig said this or that and it's making me upset.


You should not have posted anything.
Your reply is exactly what propagates lies and gossip .. and what I keep raising hell about!
We have nothing at all saying Cryorig said anything at all.
What we have is someting kitguru posted.
Yet you post up saying "Cryorig said this or that and it's ...." What evidence do you have that Cryorig said anything about coolermaster? NONE!! So why are you spreading miss-information? All you are doing is being just another gossiping clickbait propagator of things you have no idea about, but post up as if they are a reality.
I sure hope you don't like me calling you out for saying such things.
But if someone reads gossip and and posts gossip as if it's true then they are propagating it as truth.
This gossip has nothing I can find that supports it.
Only wha kitguru posted on his site.
Nothing anywhere else on internet that I can find.
So why did you even.

The only reason I keep replying to all these idiotic gossip clickbait posts is to say each and every one of you is propagating the rumor as if it is true, and we have nothing to support that except all you dupes acting like there might be something to it.


----------



## Skylinestar

I've just read the kitguru news. Pics of AM4 mobo and Cryorigs's cooler? The "perfect example" doesn't show the mobo at all.









Besides that, is AM4 bracket really that low in stock? What's up with all manufacturers that require us to show proof of purchase of AM4 mobo and cpu? Will the manufacturer accept the unique serial number of the cooler (if one still have the packaging box)?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylinestar*
> 
> I've just read the kitguru news. Pics of AM4 mobo and Cryorigs's cooler? The "perfect example" doesn't show the mobo at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides that, is AM4 bracket really that low in stock? What's up with all manufacturers that require us to show proof of purchase of AM4 mobo and cpu? Will the manufacturer accept the unique serial number of the cooler (if one still have the packaging box)?


Basically the want to make sure anyone requesting the mount is actually going to use it.

You would probably be surprised how many people will ask for free things they have no actual use for.


----------



## WexleySnoops

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You should not have posted anything.
> Your reply is exactly what propagates lies and gossip .. and what I keep raising hell about!
> We have nothing at all saying Cryorig said anything at all.
> What we have is someting kitguru posted.
> Yet you post up saying "Cryorig said this or that and it's ...." What evidence do you have that Cryorig said anything about coolermaster? NONE!! So why are you spreading miss-information? All you are doing is being just another gossiping clickbait propagator of things you have no idea about, but post up as if they are a reality.
> I sure hope you don't like me calling you out for saying such things.
> But if someone reads gossip and and posts gossip as if it's true then they are propagating it as truth.
> This gossip has nothing I can find that supports it.
> Only wha kitguru posted on his site.
> Nothing anywhere else on internet that I can find.
> So why did you even.
> 
> The only reason I keep replying to all these idiotic gossip clickbait posts is to say each and every one of you is propagating the rumor as if it is true, and we have nothing to support that except all you dupes acting like there might be something to it.


Dude, chill the **** out.

Did you see who I quoted?

Did you read what they said?

Here, let me help you: "Nah....just too many ridiculous arguments about nothing around here."

And I AGREED WITH THEM.

How about you re-read what I wrote and re-think your reply, because you had zero reason writing those things when I AGREE WITH YOU about how silly this rumor is.

My reply was simply agreeing with the stupidity of people posting non-sense about "Cryorig said this or that" and it's making them upset for no reason. I did not say anything to promote this rumor. I merely stated that the rumor has de-railed this thread, and that it would be nice if we could return to the topic at hand.

Yet here you are spouting your mouth off at me for no good reason.

Good riddance get your head out of your ass.

You're right I don't appreciate you calling me out. You have zero reason to be calling me out, because there is zero evidence of me spreading mis-information.

Good job starting a flame war against yourself. I hope you appreciate the blasting!









Your location says UK but your lack of English comprehension is astounding.

No wonder people hate forums.

/endrant


----------



## Shneiky

https://www.kitguru.net/tech-news/featured-tech-news/damien-cox/cryorig-explains-its-profane-tweet-aimed-at-cooler-master/

It was not a rumor, it was not gossip, it was just an accident. Bot companies handled it without a fuss.

So there is your resolution. The image was fan made and it was posted by accident. Now we can put this to rest.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneiky*
> 
> https://www.kitguru.net/tech-news/featured-tech-news/damien-cox/cryorig-explains-its-profane-tweet-aimed-at-cooler-master/
> 
> It was not a rumor, it was not gossip, it was just an accident. Bot companies handled it without a fuss.
> 
> So there is your resolution. The image was fan made and it was posted by accident. Now we can put this to rest.


So kitguru drew you in and now you let him play you again.
He posted it up on his website in clickbait form trying to get people to view his website and boost his google search hit count. To me and many others what his actions were definitely not professional, and to me unethical.

If you had waited until the truth was told instead of taking kitguru's clickbait and clickbaiting us here with it, none of this would have happened.

I checked web and couldn't find anything but kitguru link on internet you had posted it, so emailed Cryorig to see what they knew about it.

I had a reply from Cryorig when I got up this morning explaining in detail what had happened .. and saying they would be contacting kitguru with explanation same as they gave me .. which they did. I can post the email (they give me permission to do so) if you want.

For those who don't know the story and don't want to give kitguru any website hits, here is what Cryorig told me:

_The image kitguru posted was taken by a Cryorig customer who sent it to Cryorig as proof of ownership when requesting AM4 mount.

It was circulated around within the Cryorig staff giving them a good laugh until one of their PR team thought it would be fun to tweet it, then either someone said something to that person or person realized their error and pulled it for obvious reasons of it being unprofessional and in poor taste.
_

That was the end of it until kitguru use it trying to clickbait viewers to look at it on his website.

I can definitely understand how Cryorig personnel would see it as humorous and pass it around, .. but I don't understand how brain fart the staffer when he tweeted it .. and how when management found out and wanted to post an apology to Coolermaster .. but could not find it because it had already been pulled by staffer who originally did it.

The truth is kitguru was even more unprofessional in publishing an article and now an second article when it had been removed before he even posted his article. Just his feeble attempt to drum up activity on his website. I'll never open a KG link again .. ever!


----------



## ruffhi

doyll ... actually, I think you owe a few people an apology. You went on a rant about 'fake news' (that turned out to be true) and blasted at least one innocent bystander.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> doyll ... actually, I think you owe a few people an apology. You went on a rant about 'fake news' (that turned out to be true) and blasted at least one innocent bystander.


I went on a rant about half truths being posted and discussed as if they were facts.

While it is true that a Cryorig employee did in fact post the image on Twitter it is also a fact that employee did it without the knowledge or consent of Cryorig .. and even before Cryorig found out and could tell him to pull it he deleted the post.

What kitguru posted did not hint at this being anything like what had happened .. nor did many of the people who posted about it. They usually posts here as if they were at least partially accepting it as if it was fact and not just a malicious rumor.

That is what I kept hammer on about .. it was a rumor that could not be supported by anything but kitguru post.

Anyone posting it without saying it was only something said with no supporting data was gossiping.

Facts are until Cryorig emailed me early Monday morning and even before they replied to kitguru there was no supporting data of it every happening because person who posted it had removed it from Twitter.

Here is email I got from Cryorig:
Quote:


> 23/10/2017 4:08 AM
> 
> Hi (I removed my name),
> 
> Everything is true. Basically what happened was this:
> 
> On our AM4 upgrade kit application page we require users to upload a proof of purchase or ownership of some kind. One user posted the said photo, in the front was his CRYORIG cooler box, AM4 board/CPU and with a "FXXX Coolermaster" image on his PC screen in the background. This gave us some laughs when the photo circulated the office, while some of us managers gave positive remarks that it was a pretty cool/awesome image for a CR fan to upload. This in turn translated to our PR team thinking it was a green light to post, which is our mistake. Once I saw the image posted I immediately ordered the removal. I would say that there is always competition with competing brands, but keeping everything in good taste and class is equally as important as competition itself. If the actual obscene language was only hinted or masked, then I would probably keep it on our social media page. As I am in full support of our fans speaking their minds and showing their love for us. But straight up profanity has no place on our social media pages. Name calling and profanity is not how we are going to compete with other brands, quality and high class products is what we need to focus on.
> 
> So, unfortunately everything is true. I will be posting basically the same message to Kitguru in response to the incident. I will be sending some apologies directed at Cooler Master as well, also kudos to them for having much more class in this incident.
> 
> Best Regards
> 
> CRYORIG


The actions of kitguru are totally unprofessional. He even posted name of person at Cryorig who posted and removed it which to me is also extremely unprofessional.

As I have said before, I will never click on anything kitguru again. I really believe his intent was to use Cryorig and staff as clickbait to gain hits on his site. There is no other logical reason for his posting it on his site before talking to Cryorig to find out what had transpired.

If I offended anyone unjustly, I apologize, but I don't believe I have .. and I have received several rep hits and PMs from other OCN members supporting what I've said.


----------



## WexleySnoops

Mmm yes..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WexleySnoops*
> 
> Mmm yes..


Looks really nice!








What kind of GPU load temps are you getting?


----------



## PhilWrir

Cleaned.

Yes please. Lets just all move on our merry ways.
Thank you my friends.


----------



## WexleySnoops

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks really nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of GPU load temps are you getting?


Not mine, just posting as something I'd like to reference when I do my build in the near future....and because pretty pictures of purple/Cryorig etc


----------



## doyll

The Cryrig Taku case and C7 Cu cooler should be on shelves by Thanksgiving (latter part of November)!
 

Thanks @PhilWrir


----------



## mAs81

I have the c7 cooler in my HTPC rig ,and I'm extremely satisfied with it,but holy cow,the cu will look so much better in there !


----------



## bajer29

I don't think I've posted a pic with my updated case from my tiny joke of a case.

Before:


After:


----------



## doyll

Looks good!
What was before case?


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks good!
> What was before case?


It was Aerocool GT-RS BLK. I do not recommend LOL

If I could get the side panel on without running into the GPUs getting in the way, the temps would be horrible.


----------



## Skylinestar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> I don't think I've posted a pic with my updated case from my tiny joke of a case.
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> After:


Didn't know that SLI bridge works in both direction


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylinestar*
> 
> Didn't know that SLI bridge works in both direction


TYL! lol it sure does! Just like the ribbon SLI cables. They can be installed in both configurations as the "header" does not have specific orientation.


----------



## Dan-H

I posted this in online deals but thought I'd add it here too

https://flash.newegg.com/product/9SIA4UF53D6676?icid=NF_WP_TOP1_110117

H7 Quad Lumi $49.99 shipped
$49.99 After Promo Code: H7QUAD5
promo code valid until 11/3/2017 9am PT

Also,
H7 $28.90
C1 $59.99
R1 Universal $69.99
M9i/M9a $18.99

https://flash.newegg.com/

I think the other coolers are on sale for 11 days, and it also looks like there is free shipping. ( at least in the US)


----------



## Lutfij

Count me in on the Cryorig ownership!


----------



## AshBorer

Air coolers look way better than AIOs in my opinion, and Cryorig makes some of the best looking ones. I love looking through everyones photos in this thread.


----------



## Masterz88

You'll say that about airrrrr when this chip probaly Dies horribly running 5 and passes at cb and pm at 85-90c....we''ll see dude


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Masterz88*
> 
> You'll say that about airrrrr when this chip probaly Dies horribly running 5 and passes at cb and pm at 85-90c....we''ll see dude


Any chance you could clarify this (likely incredibly erroneous and sophomoric) statement in a form that can be understood?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Masterz88*
> 
> You'll say that about airrrrr when this chip probaly Dies horribly running 5 and passes at cb and pm at 85-90c....we''ll see dude


What ciarlatano siad.

My guessis you have read some 'reviews' that are actually CLC advertising with hype showing CLCs several degrees cooler than top air, but glossing over how much louder the CLCs are than top tier air at same temps. Many of these reviews are conducted in cases using room ambient air temp instead of cooler / radiator intake air temp which also makes a huge difference in their recorded temps.

Good independent testing has proven time and again just how good top tier air coolers are and how only when CLCs are making significantly more noise to move needed air through CLCs' aluminum radiators do they give lower temps .. and even then only by 4-6c.

If we use high performance fans on many of our top tier air coolers (like R1 Ultimate & Universal( we get significantly lower temps then CLCs at same noise level.

There are a couple of exceptions, like Swiftech H series be quiet! Slient Loop and a few others, most using 280mm and 360mm copper radiators.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What ciarlatano siad.
> 
> My guessis you have read some 'reviews' that are actually CLC advertising with hype showing CLCs several degrees cooler than top air, but glossing over how much louder the CLCs are than top tier air at same temps. Many of these reviews are conducted in cases using room ambient air temp instead of cooler / radiator intake air temp which also makes a huge difference in their recorded temps.
> 
> Good independent testing has proven time and again just how good top tier air coolers are and how only when CLCs are making significantly more noise to move needed air through CLCs' aluminum radiators do they give lower temps .. and even then only by 4-6c.
> 
> If we use high performance fans on many of our top tier air coolers (like R1 Ultimate & Universal( we get significantly lower temps then CLCs at same noise level.
> 
> There are a couple of exceptions, like Swiftech H series be quiet! Slient Loop and a few others, most using 280mm and 360mm copper radiators.


Kudos to you if you can even understand what he was trying to say. I mean, there is a huge amount of data and information in his post, all of which has credible sources and testing procedure backup. But....there is just so much info that it is tough to tie it all together.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Kudos to you if you can even understand what he was trying to say. I mean, there is a huge amount of data and information in his post, all of which has credible sources and testing procedure backup. But....there is just so much info that it is tough to tie it all together.


Actually I had no problem understanding his data. 'airrrrr', 'probaly' 'Dies' ,'horribly', 'running 5', 'at 85-90c' and 'we''ll see dude' are all the kind of 'credible data' wanna-be-water peeps falling for the CLC hype like the children of Hamelin followed the piped piper.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Actually I had no problem understanding his data. 'airrrrr', 'probaly' 'Dies' ,'horribly', 'running 5', 'at 85-90c' and 'we''ll see dude' are all the kind of 'credible data' wanna-be-water peeps falling for the CLC hype like the children of Hamelin followed the piped piper.


Oh! So, he said "CLC more besterer because tubes". Got it.


----------



## Gdourado

Hello all,
I have a question.
From what I can see, on a 1151 platform, the R1 ultimate blocks the first two dimm slots and the universal blocks none.
So my question is if a universal with dual XF140 fans would only block the first dimm slot and as such allow the use of taller ram in dual channel mode in the usual slots 2 and 4.
Also, is a universal with two XF fans, equal to a ultimate in regard to performance?
Or does the ultimate have some magic sauce that makes it better?

Cheers!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gdourado*
> 
> Hello all,
> I have a question.
> From what I can see, on a 1151 platform, the R1 ultimate blocks the first two dimm slots and the universal blocks none.
> So my question is if a universal with dual XF140 fans would only block the first dimm slot and as such allow the use of taller ram in dual channel mode in the usual slots 2 and 4.
> Also, is a universal with two XF fans, equal to a ultimate in regard to performance?
> Or does the ultimate have some magic sauce that makes it better?
> 
> Cheers!


R1 Ultimate does not 'block' the dimm slots,but if RAM is taller than 42mm the fan will not fit over it.
There is also the potential problem of fan being too big to fit between tall RAM and case side.
Opening post has detailed dimensional drawings of R1 coolers.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gdourado*
> 
> Hello all,
> I have a question.
> From what I can see, on a 1151 platform, the R1 ultimate blocks the first two dimm slots and the universal blocks none.
> So my question is if a universal with dual XF140 fans would only block the first dimm slot and as such allow the use of taller ram in dual channel mode in the usual slots 2 and 4.
> Also, is a universal with two XF fans, equal to a ultimate in regard to performance?
> Or does the ultimate have some magic sauce that makes it better?
> 
> Cheers!


Systems in my Sig: R1 ultimate on my Daily Driver, (4790K) and R1 universal on two "Wish it was mine" (6700K).

Here is the R1 universal on a Z170 board with the XT140 fan.



I considered using XF140 fans as I have two that I'm not using, but it would have meant moving the fan up to clear the taller RAM.

I thought I'd see or hear a difference, but the front XT-140 is fine on these systems, and for the speed/voltage I'm pushing it is more than adequate cooling and is also quiet.


----------



## Gdourado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> R1 Ultimate does not 'block' the dimm slots,but if RAM is taller than 42mm the fan will not fit over it.
> There is also the potential problem of fan being too big to fit between tall RAM and case side.
> Opening post has detailed dimensional drawings of R1 coolers.


According to the cryorig website, ram clearance for the ultimate is between 30 to 35mm. My ram according to gskill is 40mm (ripjaws x).
Yet, you mention 43mm. I am confused at this point.

Cheers


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gdourado*
> 
> According to the cryorig website, ram clearance for the ultimate is between 30 to 35mm. My ram according to gskill is 40mm (ripjaws x).
> Yet, you mention 43mm. I am confused at this point.
> 
> Cheers


I mentioned 42mm, not 43mm.















42mm is maximum height measurement of a RAM module that will fit with front fan moved up so it is flush with bottom of R1 shroud.

The dimensional drawings I referred you to are accurate. They wee sent to Cryorig to verify their accuracy before I posted them.

Cryorig drawing shows 30-35mm from top of PCIe socket to top of RAM.

While I do not know what the top of RAM socket height is above motherboard, I do know that the RAM socket raises the RAM cc3mm above the motherboard which is 5mm below the top of CPU.

But for a 140mm fan to fit over RAM with tower case side cover installed you case needs to have at least 175mm CPU clearance.


----------



## pbrhama

Is it possible to install the H7 Quad Lumi with the am4 original backplate and the spacers that come with the M9 am4 upgrade kit? The plastic backplate that comes with Quad Lumi looks so fragile...


----------



## ruffhi

I just purchased a C7 for my HTPC. I'm down shifting from a Silverstone tek GD09B to a more wife friendly case (Antec - VSK2000-U3) and my M9I doesn't fit







. My C1 is also too tall.

I'll let you know how it turns out.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I just purchased a C7 for my HTPC. I'm down shifting from a Silverstone tek GD09B to a more wife friendly case (Antec - VSK2000-U3) and my M9I doesn't fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . My C1 is also too tall.
> 
> I'll let you know how it turns out.


C7 works very well if you can setup a good cool air to the fan that does not get contaminated by it's own heated exhaust airflow. I like the Silverstone RVZ01, but not sure how 'wife friendly' it is.


----------



## mAs81

I love my C7 to death-it does an immaculate job cooling my Haswell i5 in my HTPC when gaming,And even though It's on top of my 280X which tends to get hot,I've never seen cpu temps go higher than high 60s - setup in my sig


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> C7 works very well if you can setup a good cool air to the fan that does not get contaminated by it's own heated exhaust airflow. I like the Silverstone RVZ01, but not sure how 'wife friendly' it is.


RVZ01 / ML07B / 6 / etc is a non-starter ... as I don't like the look of it









The Antec is certainly air flow challenged as there doesn't appear to be any grills - I'll monitor the temperature situation.

The other cases in consideration were the ML04B and the In-win BL631. Both of these cases had grills over the motherboard location while the ML04B has a ton of side grill for either in-take or exhaust.

BTW - Q: The C7 pushes air down? ... so a clean feed of fresh air to the top of the cooler would be ideal?


----------



## frostbite

I have a C7, whilst it looks good I couldn't really use it get good temps

My H97's row of mosfets interferes with the seating, If there was a milled edge on one side
like the socket A coolers it would have fitted perfect


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> RVZ01 / ML07B / 6 / etc is a non-starter ... as I don't like the look of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Antec is certainly air flow challenged as there doesn't appear to be any grills - I'll monitor the temperature situation.
> 
> The other cases in consideration were the ML04B and the In-win BL631. Both of these cases had grills over the motherboard location while the ML04B has a ton of side grill for either in-take or exhaust.
> 
> BTW - Q: The C7 pushes air down? ... so a clean feed of fresh air to the top of the cooler would be ideal?


Yes, C7 is downflow. Problem with downflow coolers is they tend to do this.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22323763


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Can the C7 change to pull instead.

I have the C1 to pull which works better in my case and airflow.
Temps dropped lower in pull or push.


----------



## frostbite

The C7 has a proprietry fan, well atleast on my one unless they have changed it on newer models


----------



## doyll

What @frostbite said.











Not being able to run fan over and have airflow over motherboard, up into cooler and away so heated air coming out of cooler is moved away and out of case is my only complaint about C7. I've found these compact pancake / downflow coolers to run much hotter with fan pushing down then pulling up .. like 8-10c hotter even on open bench test station with a 140mm fan flowing air over motherboard cooler area. For them to cool best in a case requires an intake vent and fan directly above them .. something very few builds have.

*Downflow / Pancake Cooler Fan Orientation for Better Cooling*
I've found more often than not using the fan to pull air up from cooler give significantly lower temps than pushing air into cooler.

Reason is pushing air in through cooler means hot air coming out toward motherboard turns out, hits RAM, GPU, I/O houseings etc. turning up past cooler & fan and is sucked back into fan.

With fan pulling out of cooler air flows over motherboard, up into cooler, fan and out side vents.

Even on open bench testing just turning the fan often lowers mobo and CPU temps by 5-8c


You think I used enough pretty arrows? :









Here is AXP-100 testing with differetn fans push vs pull:


Here is what i found on same cooler:
Quote:


> *AXP-100 w/ TY-100 pushing in
> Tested with i7 920 stock (130w CPU)
> Handbrake @ realtime
> 
> Room ambient . Idle CPU; rpm; Cooler Exhaust. . 100% CPU; rpm; Cooler Exhaust . mobo; NB; Cooler intake*
> 21.5c . . . . . . . . . 33-34-35-31c 2400rpm 28.0c . . 67-68-67-66c 2400rpm . 39.5c . . 36c . . 51c
> 22.0c . . . . . . . . . 33-34-35-31c 2250rpm 28.0c . . 68-68-69-67c 2250rpm . 39.5c . . 36c . . 51c . . 30.0c
> 22.5c . . . . . . . . . 36-35-39-33c 2000rpm 30.0c . . 69-70-70-69c 2000rpm . 40.0c . . 39c . . 51c
> 22.5c . . . . . . . . . 35-34-38-33c 1750rpm 29.5c . . 72-73-73-71c 1750rpm . 43.0c . . 40c . . 54c
> 22.5c . . . . . . . . ; 35-35-39-34c 1500rpm 30.0c . . 76-78-77-75c 1500rpm . 47.0c . . 40c . . 57c
> 23.0c . . . . . . . . . 37-36-41-36c 1200rpm 31.0c; 39c & 46c mobo & NB
> 2400rpm is maximum rpm mounted pushing in
> *Temperature of air 30mm above TY-100*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I re-ran a couple of the fan pushing in tests. Intake air is much warmer than room ambient.. like 8c warmer!.
> 
> *AXP-100 w/ TY-100 pulling out
> Tested with i7 920 stock (130w CPU)
> Handbrake @ realtime
> 
> Room ambient . Idle CPU; rpm; Cooler Exhaust. . 100% CPU; rpm; Cooler Exhaust . mobo; NB; Cooler intake*
> 21.5c . . . . . . . . 32-31-35-31c 2450rpm 26.0c . . 62-62-63-61c 2450rpm . 33.5c . . 34c . . 46c
> 21.5c . . . . . . . . 33-31-35-31c 2250rpm 25.5c . . 63-64-65-63c 2250rpm . 34.5c . . 37c . . 45c
> 21.5c . . . . . . . . 33-32-37-33c 2000rpm 30.0c . . 64-65-65-64c 2000rpm . 35.5c . . 34c . . 48c
> 21.5c . . . . . . . . 35-34-39-34c 1750rpm 28.5c . . 66-67-66-65c 1750rpm . 37.5c . . 35c . . 50c
> 21.5c . . . . . . . . 34-33-38-32c 1500rpm 27.0c . . 69-70-70-69c 1500rpm . 39.5c . . 34c . . 51c
> 21.0c . . . . . . . . 35-34-38-33c 1200rpm 28.0c; 34c & 47c mobo & NB
> *I neglected to put a probe under cooler, sorry.
> . 2450rpm is maximum rpm mounted pulling out*
> 
> Running TY-100 pushing in and find the heat difference is because of air temperature over cooler / fan intake. Running at 2400rpm the air 30mm above AXP-100 is 28.5c with 22c ambient. That's with a TY-140 40cm away and 15cm above work top blowing 22c ambient over test setup. It also shows in the exhaust temp readings with TY-100 pushing into cooler.
> 
> Just goes to prove how much more important actual cooler intake air temperature is than what the room ambient temperature is.


I'll try and find my test results for C7 where I tested stock and used a 15cm cone shaped duct into cooler on open bench and also tested with stock fan modified to pull. Cone like duct worked best, but fan mounted to pul was still much better then push. I didn't publish them and not sure I even saved them.

Edit: Here is image of stock fan and reversed flow stock fan.


C7 stock test results were only slightly warmer and similar than AXP-100 with similar noise levels, which is very impressive considering AXP-100 is a 6x 6mm heatpipes 105x122x58mm compared to C7's 4x 6mm heatpipes 97x97x47mm.


----------



## dainfamous

https://www.shapeways.com/product/LSP757C2L/cryorig-c7-92mm-fan-adapter?optionId=62655969


----------



## doyll

Thank you @dainfamous.








Very useful bit of kit for C7 owners.
I sure wish Cryrig would make a reversible fan for C7. Would look much nicer than this adapter will.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thank you @dainfamous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very useful bit of kit for C7 owners.
> I sure wish Cryrig would make a reversible fan for C7. Would look much nicer than this adapter will.


Honestly, why not both? A reverse flow fan that first onto an adapter like that(or just include the adapter in the box), this way you have the option of using different fans too for better performance and/or lower noise.


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> https://www.shapeways.com/product/LSP757C2L/cryorig-c7-92mm-fan-adapter?optionId=62655969


That is very handy ,especially for someone who wants to change the fan altogether - thanks for sharing +REP


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Honestly, why not both? A reverse flow fan that first onto an adapter like that(or just include the adapter in the box), this way you have the option of using different fans too for better performance and/or lower noise.


True, but I think the stock fan works very well, it just needs to pull instead of push. The looks of 90mm fan adapter with fan is not going to look near as nice as C7 fan does.


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The looks of 90mm fan adapter with fan is not going to look near as nice as C7 fan does.


True that..The C7 is a very sexy looking cooler..Even though I'm very saatisfied with it,I wonder how much difference the reverse fan configuration would help it's cooling capabilities..

Judging from your own research doyll,I guess quite a lot huh..

I don't think that the cu model will have that option..At least from all the pictures I've seen


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> True that..The C7 is a very sexy looking cooler..Even though I'm very saatisfied with it,I wonder how much difference the reverse fan configuration would help it's cooling capabilities..
> 
> Judging from your own research doyll,I guess quite a lot huh..
> 
> I don't think that the cu model will have that option..At least from all the pictures I've seen


How much difference depends on many things, but mostly on RAM height, how close GPU is to CPU and how high motherboard modules are around CPU .. basically anything that forces downflow air through cooler that might turn this heated exhaust air up along the ends of C7 keeping in mind that airflow out of C7 is on ends of finpack, not sides, so anything on ends of finpacke are what effect the airflow turning up along ends of cooler and being drawn back into cooler. Case airflow paths also play a huge part in all of this.
5th post in "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig below is about case airflow.


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 5th post in "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig below is about case airflow.


Yeah,I've read that more than a few times in the past,and it has helped me a lot -vey interesting and informative for everyone who cares to look,kudos

Thankfully in my Air240 setup everything runs nice and cool


----------



## poah

using a cryorig A40 ultimate to cool my ryzen 1700 O/C to 3.9


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poah*
> 
> using a cryorig A40 ultimate to cool my ryzen 1700 O/C to 3.9


Congrats bro.
Same with me, OC 1700-4Ghz with R1-Ultimate or SB-E Extreme







)

well, im done playing with AIO cooler, after two of my old AIO alreadyfailure with their Radiator// Leak on their radiator fins (Corsair H100i & CM MasterPro 280)









now, Aircooler is better for me.


----------



## lemniscate

Hi there, is it normal for a non-delidded 8700K at 4.5GHz (4.8 with -3 AVX offset) to thermal throttle under prime with R1 universal at max speed? This is my first time dealing with a big air cooler (took a bit of time to finally mounted it) so I’m wondering if it might be caused by bad contact, but on the other hand it’s also my first time using a non-soldered chip so I have no idea how hot these chips get before delidding.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> Hi there, is it normal for a non-delidded 8700K at 4.5GHz (4.8 with -3 AVX offset) to thermal throttle under prime with R1 universal at max speed? This is my first time dealing with a big air cooler (took a bit of time to finally mounted it) so I'm wondering if it might be caused by bad contact, but on the other hand it's also my first time using a non-soldered chip so I have no idea how hot these chips get before delidding.


No, it's not normal, but it's hard to say what the problem is; bad TIM seat on delid die to IHs seat, bad TIM seat on cooler to IHS seat, bad case airflow not supplying cooler with air near room temp, etc.

What did you get when you ran Prime at stock settings?
I'm assuming you ran Prime at stock settings to determine everything was working as it should before you started playing with settings..


----------



## lemniscate

Hmm pretty much the same thing, with my asus board's MCE enabled by default the cores would boost to 4.0-4.2, which is the range they end up after throttling under my overclock settings (in fact default MCE would put the core voltage at higher than my 1.30V during load). I didn't try default with MCE disabled, but I guess I'll take it apart and see if I have good contact between the cooler and the IHS.


----------



## lemniscate

The IHS to cooler contact doesn't look too bad to me. I guess I should try delidding it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The IHS to cooler contact doesn't look too bad to me. I guess I should try delidding it.


That looks like a lot of TIM from the photos, but it's hard to tell.

You could delid.......or you could go over to the Intel section and figure out if you simply borked your OC with too much voltage somewhere.


----------



## doyll

lemniscate, what ciarlatano said, post in the i7 8700K thread over in Intel section.
http://www.overclock.net/f/5/intel-cpus


----------



## lemniscate

Thanks guys for the responses. I'll hop in there and ask.

Meanwhile I just delidded it and now temp is at 77-82 deg C across all cores under small FFT prime (4.5GHz AVX, 1.30V).

Probably another very stupid question, but how hot are those heatpipes in the cooler supposed to be? I touched them and they're barely warm, unlike the VRM heatsinks.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> Thanks guys for the responses. I'll hop in there and ask.
> 
> Meanwhile I just delidded it and now temp is at 77-82 deg C across all cores under small FFT prime (4.5GHz AVX, 1.30V).
> 
> Probably another very stupid question, but how hot are those heatpipes in the cooler supposed to be? I touched them and they're barely warm, unlike the VRM heatsinks.


What were your temps before delid? What thermal paste are you using between IHS and die? VRM heatsinks will, inmost cases, be warmer than CPU heatpipes unless something is very wrong with the CPU cooler.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> Thanks guys for the responses. I'll hop in there and ask.
> 
> Meanwhile I just delidded it and now temp is at 77-82 deg C across all cores under small FFT prime (4.5GHz AVX, 1.30V).
> 
> Probably another very stupid question, but how hot are those heatpipes in the cooler supposed to be? I touched them and they're barely warm, unlike the VRM heatsinks.


That sounds much better.

Heatpipes do not get hot on the outside. Liqud inside of heatpipe boils/vaporizes and is pushed by the expansion of water changing from liquid to vapor toward ends of pipes where it condenses/contracts to liquid in wicked inside surface of heatpipe and this liquid moves back to heat source where cycle starts over as long as there is heat there. If heatpipe is hot to the touch the vapor would not condense and flow back thus breaking the heat transfer cycle. Below is a basic guide to how heatpipes work.


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> What were your temps before delid? What thermal paste are you using between IHS and die? VRM heatsinks will, inmost cases, be warmer than CPU heatpipes unless something is very wrong with the CPU cooler.


Maxed at 100 deg C before throttling down. I used conductonaut between die and IHS.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> That sounds much better.
> 
> Heatpipes do not get hot on the outside. Liqud inside of heatpipe boils/vaporizes and is pushed by the expansion of water changing from liquid to vapor toward ends of pipes where it condenses/contracts to liquid in wicked inside surface of heatpipe and this liquid moves back to heat source where cycle starts over as long as there is heat there. If heatpipe is hot to the touch the vapor would not condense and flow back thus breaking the heat transfer cycle. Below is a basic guide to how heatpipes work.


I see, that makes sense. Learned something new today, never knew how heatpipes actually work. Thanks for the explanation.

Basically your posts and ciarlatano's all around the forums comparing air coolers and clc convinced me to try going air, and honestly I'm happy with how they sound. Having no clc pump noise made the rig overall sound a lot more pleasing, for lack of better word. I might try going custom loop with proper components down the road, but for now I'm happy with the R1.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> Maxed at 100 deg C before throttling down. I used conductonaut between die and IHS.
> I see, that makes sense. Learned something new today, never knew how heatpipes actually work. Thanks for the explanation.
> 
> Basically your posts and ciarlatano's all around the forums comparing air coolers and clc convinced me to try going air, and honestly I'm happy with how they sound. Having no clc pump noise made the rig overall sound a lot more pleasing, for lack of better word. I might try going custom loop with proper components down the road, but for now I'm happy with the R1.


Thanks.

Yeah, air cooling is really the best way to go. A few good case fans and a good cooler give very good cooling with very little noise even at extreme work load, and are virtually silent at low load. Combine that with needing very little maintenance in a case with good intake filters and much lower cost of components and it's hard to beat, about the same as spending $700-1000 on custom loop but less maintenance.

As much as I love my R1 I'm not sold on the included fans. With all the different fans I've tested I've found a few that have nicer sounds to my ears then the XF140 does.


----------



## lemniscate

Would you happen to have some recommendations on replacement fans? My case fans are NB eloops at 1900rpm (initially planned for my old clc, that's why I picked high rpm) and I feel that they sound nicer than R1's included fans at similar rpm.

Also a bit nitpicky, but I don't like the XF140's gray housing, they somehow feel kinda cheap, but that's pretty subjective.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> Would you happen to have some recommendations on replacement fans? My case fans are NB eloops at 1900rpm (initially planned for my old clc, that's why I picked high rpm) and I feel that they sound nicer than R1's included fans at similar rpm.
> 
> Also a bit nitpicky, but I don't like the XF140's gray housing, they somehow feel kinda cheap, but that's pretty subjective.


I would rather not discuss other thing here in Cryorig thread. Start a thread about your rig or post in 'Ways to Better Cooing' (link is in my sig) and we can disuss it.


----------



## veirge

Im in need of some advice here. I have the R1 ultimate and ryzen 1700. My temps when running small ftts in prime peak at 85c! 1700 is at 3.8ghz 1.3v core 1.1v soc. Ambient is around 31-32. Idle temps are at 38 to 40c. Are my temps normal? They are really high. I have reseated three times, same temps.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *veirge*
> 
> Im in need of some advice here. I have the R1 ultimate and ryzen 1700. My temps when running small ftts in prime peak at 85c! 1700 is at 3.8ghz 1.3v core 1.1v soc. Ambient is around 31-32. Idle temps are at 38 to 40c. Are my temps normal? They are really high. I have reseated three times, same temps.


Did you get the upgrade kit to mount on Ryzen?
I did notice alot of coolers just do not perform well on Ryzen, as the base just dont cover enough.
We had the FX8350 with R1 Universal then swapped to 1700x and temps was not very good.


----------



## veirge

Yup. Couldnt mount it without the bracket. So are those normal temps? Gaming temps are at aroud 50c though. I will try rendering later after an 8hr prime


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *veirge*
> 
> Im in need of some advice here. I have the R1 ultimate and ryzen 1700. My temps when running small ftts in prime peak at 85c! 1700 is at 3.8ghz 1.3v core 1.1v soc. Ambient is around 31-32. Idle temps are at 38 to 40c. Are my temps normal? They are really high. I have reseated three times, same temps.


Would really help to know what your system is, like what case and how case fans are set up, case and cooler fan speeds, motherboard, and RAM. Then we will have a little to go on when trying to figure out what the problem/s is/are.

As a starter you might find 'Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig, 5th topic is 'setting up a case for optimum cooling' of interest. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it.


----------



## veirge

Well, ive read all of your threads.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Would really help to know what your system is, like what case and how case fans are set up, case and cooler fan speeds, motherboard, and RAM. Then we will have a little to go on when trying to figure out what the problem/s is/are.
> 
> As a starter you might find 'Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig, 5th topic is 'setting up a case for optimum cooling' of interest. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it.


Well, Ive read all of your threads and sig links, quite a lot actually. Good stuff. Anyway, I've updated my sig rig. Case is FD Define S. Case fans, 2 that came with case on front intake, these are on the mid and lower, 1 cryorig qf140 intake and 1 cryorig qf140 exhaust at the back. No fans on top or bottom. R1 fans speed is set to performance mode in bios. The 2 QF140 are set at a curve, 50% on 50c and ramps up to 100% on 75c.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *veirge*
> 
> Well, ive read all of your threads.
> Well, Ive read all of your threads and sig links, quite a lot actually. Good stuff. Anyway, I've updated my sig rig. Case is FD Define S. Case fans, 2 that came with case on front intake, these are on the mid and lower, 1 cryorig qf140 intake and 1 cryorig qf140 exhaust at the back. No fans on top or bottom. R1 fans speed is set to performance mode in bios. The 2 QF140 are set at a curve, 50% on 50c and ramps up to 100% on 75c.


Sorry, my bad. While many have read it, many have not and I would rather error on the side of maybe not knowing then those like you who do know.








Kinda hard to understand what fans are where .. 2x stock fans front intake .. middle and lower part of front ?? Plus 2x QF140 front intake?? and 1x QF140 rear exhaust ... plus 2x QF140 fans on R1??

Have you monitored the air temp going into CPU cooler yet?

The Fractal Design Dynamic GP-14 is a quiet fan, but it even at full speed it has very low static pressure rating of 0.71mm H2O. I want at least twice that to overcome grill and filter resistance, and Define S has some very serious front grill and filter resistance ..

The rear is also has rather low airflow area. Removing all PCIe back slot covers will will at least double rear exhaust airflow area.

I would suggest some better front intakes and close off all of front fan mounting panel except where fans are so the airflow fans are pushing into case cannot leak back into space between front of case and fan mounting panel. Same for front half of case bottom .. and a bottom intake just in front of PSU usually helps supply GPU with cool air.


----------



## veirge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry, my bad. While many have read it, many have not and I would rather error on the side of maybe not knowing then those like you who do know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kinda hard to understand what fans are where .. 2x stock fans front intake .. middle and lower part of front ?? Plus 2x QF140 front intake?? and 1x QF140 rear exhaust ... plus 2x QF140 fans on R1??
> 
> Have you monitored the air temp going into CPU cooler yet?
> 
> The Fractal Design Dynamic GP-14 is a quiet fan, but it even at full speed it has very low static pressure rating of 0.71mm H2O. I want at least twice that to overcome grill and filter resistance, and Define S has some very serious front grill and filter resistance ..
> 
> The rear is also has rather low airflow area. Removing all PCIe back slot covers will will at least double rear exhaust airflow area.
> 
> I would suggest some better front intakes and close off all of front fan mounting panel except where fans are so the airflow fans are pushing into case cannot leak back into space between front of case and fan mounting panel. Same for front half of case bottom .. and a bottom intake just in front of PSU usually helps supply GPU with cool air.


Sorry about not being clear. I was using my phone to type.

2 stock intake fans on the front + QF140. The QF140 is at the top front, while the 2 stocks are middle and lower. All PCIE slot covers are removed, one the first things I did as you pretty much recommend it in all your threads. I ll try to get two new case fans by the end of the week, and I ll see if it helps. Thanks a lot.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *veirge*
> 
> Sorry about not being clear. I was using my phone to type.
> 
> 2 stock intake fans on the front + QF140. The QF140 is at the top front, while the 2 stocks are middle and lower. All PCIE slot covers are removed, one the first things I did as you pretty much recommend it in all your threads. I ll try to get two new case fans by the end of the week, and I ll see if it helps. Thanks a lot.


I haven't used Define S, so you might not be able to do this; remove the front cover and see how that effects case airflow / cooling, then try it without front cover and filter. If you notice cooler temps then the front intake fans are being restricted by case front, and if temps are even lower with both front cover and filter removed it only proves it more. O.71mm H2O at 1000rpm is only about 0.4 at 600rpm, .. 1.5mm H2O is less then the difference in pressure between standing at sea level and standing 10 fee up on a dock.


----------



## zlatoxalpha69x2

wow that weird, does you set your 1700 cpu under taichi bios like this ?




im also oc my 1700 with R1 cooler for 3.8, 3.85, 3.9 and 4 ghz with no issue for very high temp.

maybe you can reset bios setting like what i did above for 3.8 ghz...if your cpu temp give positive result with lower degree than your cpu result get, you can set more higher to 3.85 or 3.9 ghz (vcore 1.4 max)

or, maybe you can test using TIM apply for amd with thin apply TIM with X method on Ryzen ( i did this and so happy with this result compared with dot TIM technique) PS: this is just for my personal result


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The IHS to cooler contact doesn't look too bad to me. I guess I should try delidding it.


im prefer spread method than dot method if apply TIM on CPU
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zlatoxalpha69x2*
> 
> wow that weird, does you set your 1700 cpu under taichi bios like this ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im also oc my 1700 with R1 cooler for 3.8, 3.85, 3.9 and 4 ghz with no issue for very high temp.
> 
> maybe you can reset bios setting like what i did above for 3.8 ghz...if your cpu temp give positive result with lower degree than your cpu result get, you can set more higher to 3.85 or 3.9 ghz (vcore 1.4 max)
> 
> or, maybe you can test using TIM apply for amd with thin apply TIM with X method on Ryzen ( i did this and so happy with this result compared with dot TIM technique) PS: this is just for my personal result


me too, overclock Ryzen 7-3.9 ghz with Cryorig r1 give stable temperature not reaching more than 55 degree C (maximum)











just remind @veirge : always monitor VRM temp if you overclock Ryzen, no matter what type cooler you using for cooling down CPU oc, when vrm goes high, your cpu will become throttle unstable more faster too, CMIIW







(thats why i hate using AIO watercooling now, bcoz they not giving cooling airflow around your CPU (mosfet and VRM))

RIP Watercooling


----------



## lastraiyzen99X2

lol, idk why @lemniscate post also quote by my post above....sorry soory


----------



## Supermatico

*New with Cryonig R1*

Hello guys,

My PC have the hardware disposal where, with thanks to the chassis, I can install the VGA in vertical position, as you can see on the attachement, and it is what I did.

Now, the CPU cooler is a Noctua (NH-D15S) right now, but let me to explain in full:

- With a 4K 28" monitor I decide to change the VGA with an Aorus 1080, removed the one in the photo (1050Ti), installing the 1080 it touches the CPU cooler (installation impossible to complete) so, finally I have to install the VGA in the classic mode (directly on the mobo)
- Due to RAM height, I can't rotate the Noctua cooler
- I don't want to replace the 2x8Gb 3600MHz DDR4 RAM to be just able to rotate the CPU cooler

So I'm thinking to buy an R1 Universal CPU cooler, first of all because it's 10 mm less large than a Noctua one and for last but not least, for RAM compatibility (my GSkill RAM is 45 mm height)

Now, if I'm wrong for any reason and I'll need to rotate the R1 cooler (vertical installation), how can change the RAM compability? Should I have any problems? On the Cryonig website there is no information about that

The final purpose of all of this is to be able to install my new 1080 VGA in vertical position without interferences with any other hardware

Tks in advance!

P.S.: If I have to open a new thread for this please, tell me, tks


----------



## doyll

Supermatico said:


> Hello guys,
> 
> My PC have the hardware disposal where, with thanks to the chassis, I can install the VGA in vertical position, as you can see on the attachement, and it is what I did.
> 
> Now, the CPU cooler is a Noctua (NH-D15S) right now, but let me to explain in full:
> 
> - With a 4K 28" monitor I decide to change the VGA with an Aorus 1080, removed the one in the photo (1050Ti), installing the 1080 it touches the CPU cooler (installation impossible to complete) so, finally I have to install the VGA in the classic mode (directly on the mobo)
> - Due to RAM height, I can't rotate the Noctua cooler
> - I don't want to replace the 2x8Gb 3600MHz DDR4 RAM to be just able to rotate the CPU cooler
> 
> So I'm thinking to buy an R1 Universal CPU cooler, first of all because it's 10 mm less large than a Noctua one and for last but not least, for RAM compatibility (my GSkill RAM is 45 mm height)
> 
> Now, if I'm wrong for any reason and I'll need to rotate the R1 cooler (vertical installation), how can change the RAM compability? Should I have any problems? On the Cryonig website there is no information about that
> 
> The final purpose of all of this is to be able to install my new 1080 VGA in vertical position without interferences with any other hardware
> 
> Tks in advance!
> 
> P.S.: If I have to open a new thread for this please, tell me, tks


I don't understand how R1 will give you better clearance than D15S.
NH-D15S is 67.5 center CPU to front of fan, 160mm tall and 67mm center CPU toward PCIe socket.
R1 Universal is 49.5mm center CPU to front of fan (R1 Ultimate is 67mm), 177mm tall and 70mm center CPU toward PCIe socket.​How is D15S not clearing your new video card?


----------



## ciarlatano

Supermatico said:


> Hello guys,
> 
> My PC have the hardware disposal where, with thanks to the chassis, I can install the VGA in vertical position, as you can see on the attachement, and it is what I did.
> 
> Now, the CPU cooler is a Noctua (NH-D15S) right now, but let me to explain in full:
> 
> - With a 4K 28" monitor I decide to change the VGA with an Aorus 1080, removed the one in the photo (1050Ti), installing the 1080 it touches the CPU cooler (installation impossible to complete) so, finally I have to install the VGA in the classic mode (directly on the mobo)
> - Due to RAM height, I can't rotate the Noctua cooler
> - I don't want to replace the 2x8Gb 3600MHz DDR4 RAM to be just able to rotate the CPU cooler
> 
> So I'm thinking to buy an R1 Universal CPU cooler, first of all because it's 10 mm less large than a Noctua one and for last but not least, for RAM compatibility (my GSkill RAM is 45 mm height)
> 
> Now, if I'm wrong for any reason and I'll need to rotate the R1 cooler (vertical installation), how can change the RAM compability? Should I have any problems? On the Cryonig website there is no information about that
> 
> The final purpose of all of this is to be able to install my new 1080 VGA in vertical position without interferences with any other hardware
> 
> Tks in advance!
> 
> P.S.: If I have to open a new thread for this please, tell me, tks


Why not just ditch the riser and leave the 1080 in the PCIe slot? That seems to make a lot more sense.


----------



## Supermatico

doyll said:


> I don't understand how R1 will give you better clearance than D15S.
> NH-D15S is 67.5 center CPU to front of fan, 160mm tall and 67mm center CPU toward PCIe socket.
> R1 Universal is 49.5mm center CPU to front of fan (R1 Ultimate is 67mm), 177mm tall and 70mm center CPU toward PCIe socket.​How is D15S not clearing your new video card?


The problem is the cooler size in large
Noctua is 150 mm
R1 is 140 mm
Those 5 mm per side give me a lot of chances more in the CPU Cooler horizontal installation, the only kind of installation that can give me problems, because there are 5 mm less going downward to the vertical VGA



ciarlatano said:


> Why not just ditch the riser and leave the 1080 in the PCIe slot? That seems to make a lot more sense.


If there are no solutions at all yes, it should be, but with a 670 € Gigabyte Aorus GTX1080 with RGB leds in a Thermaltake View 71TG chassis, sorry but I would to get all VGA resources, its RGB lighting included 

Anyway, anyone can tell me if the R1 Universal can be installed, just in case, in the vertical positions with tall RAM?

Thanks


----------



## Supermatico

Uhm, with many thanks to doyll I just discover the Noctua size in large is not symmetrical for both sides, starting from the center of the CPU

I have to reconsider everything, I'll let you know

Many thanks for now!!


----------



## Supermatico

Uhm, with many thanks to doyll I just discover the Noctua size in large is not symmetrical for both sides, starting from the center of the CPU

I have to reconsider everything, I'll let you know

Many thanks for now!!


----------



## doyll

Supermatico said:


> The problem is the cooler size in large
> Noctua is 150 mm
> R1 is 140 mm
> Those 5 mm per side give me a lot of chances more in the CPU Cooler horizontal installation, the only kind of installation that can give me problems, because there are 5 mm less going downward to the vertical VGA
> 
> Anyway, anyone can tell me if the R1 Universal can be installed, just in case, in the vertical positions with tall RAM?
> 
> Thanks


Yes, the D15S is a wider cooler, but it's base is offset so that it does not reach as far toward PCIe sockets as R1 will. 
Also D15S is 160mm tall while R1 is 167mm tall .. D15S is 7mm shorter.
D15S is 150mm wide but is 67mm toward PCIe socket and 160mm tall
R1 is 140mm wide but is 70mm toward PCIe socket and 167mm tall (I typo'ed 177 before)

Hope that makes sense to you.


----------



## Supermatico

doyll said:


> Yes, the D15S is a wider cooler, but it's base is offset so that it does not reach as far toward PCIe sockets as R1 will.
> Also D15S is 160mm tall while R1 is 167mm tall .. D15S is 7mm shorter.
> D15S is 150mm wide but is 67mm toward PCIe socket and 160mm tall
> R1 is 140mm wide but is 70mm toward PCIe socket and 167mm tall (I typo'ed 177 before)
> 
> Hope that makes sense to you.


Thanks a lot mate, as stated in my previous post I was completely wrong when I checked the Noctua specs: I stop the reading to the upper Noctua specs drawings' where is showed 150 mm wide, at the bottom of the page there was all the measurements in full, and I supposed everything was symmetrical.

So I'm completely wrong also for the R1, sigh, it is so amazing....

I'll open a new thread, sorry to have disturbed this fantastic one to all R1 owners!!!

My best regards!!


----------



## thomasck

Very frustrating (my fault), got a R1 Universal on the mailbox today, all set, motherboard (Taichi x370) out of the case, and, does not fit. The backplate screws don't match with the motherboard holes. Oh, crap. Sad weekend. - Okay, I've been stupid. I just read Universal and AM4 on the page, looked for reviews, and bought it, thought would do straight, LOL..

But even not installing it, I could see I will need another case, any suggestions?

Having a look in the kit Cryorig is sending out, looks exactly the same one I got in the box,










So I think R1 Universal is not that Universal and is not compatible with the Asrock Taichi x370.

EDIT

Never mind, I need to order another kit with them. Mine one is not natively supported (right one), like the image below. And I need the left one.


----------



## doyll

thomasck said:


> Very frustrating (my fault), got a R1 Universal on the mailbox today, all set, motherboard (Taichi x370) out of the case, and, does not fit. The backplate screws don't match with the motherboard holes. Oh, crap. Sad weekend. - Okay, I've been stupid. I just read Universal and AM4 on the page, looked for reviews, and bought it, thought would do straight, LOL..
> 
> But even not installing it, I could see I will need another case, any suggestions?
> 
> Having a look in the kit Cryorig is sending out, looks exactly the same one I got in the box,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I think R1 Universal is not that Universal and is not compatible with the Asrock Taichi x370.
> 
> EDIT
> 
> Never mind, I need to order another kit with them. Mine one is not natively supported (right one), like the image below. And I need the left one.


Glad you sorted yourself out. Too bad about needing to request the AM4 mount, but at least it's free. 
What case do you now have and where on Earth do you live? Makes it much easier to help you select a case if we know what is available and costs.


----------



## thomasck

doyll said:


> Glad you sorted yourself out. Too bad about needing to request the AM4 mount, but at least it's free.
> What case do you now have and where on Earth do you live? Makes it much easier to help you select a case if we know what is available and costs.


Yes, I should have done some research before, I know.. 
Well, I'm using a Antec 900, it will be touching the top of the fans, let's see how it will go once set. 

I'm in UK, so, overclockers.co.uk is a good option. Already done some searching around their site, and looking for cases with heights with max 200m and around £150 would be the good call, I suppose. 

Phanteks Enthoo Pro M, with cooler Clearance 194 mm - I like the look, but prefer "full windows".. 
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/phanteks-enthoo-pro-m-glass-midi-tower-case-black-ca-063-pt.html

Corsair Carbide 400C, 170 mm, a bit tight, I suppose.. 
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/cors...ase-black-window-cc-9011081-ww-ca-216-cs.html

Fractal Define R6 with 180 mm
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/frac...ower-case-black-tempered-glass-ca-07g-fd.html

And a bit over £150 what I want to spend, Phanteks Enthoo Evolv, 194mm..
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-atx-glass-mid-tower-case-black-ca-054-pt.html

Is that thing, there are many manufacturers to research, but, the less, the better, as long I will be able to do some cable management, have a nice window without thick border, and is 168 mm cpu to window height, is fine. 

If you have any suggestions, let me know, please!


----------



## ciarlatano

thomasck said:


> doyll said:
> 
> 
> 
> Glad you sorted yourself out. Too bad about needing to request the AM4 mount, but at least it's free.
> What case do you now have and where on Earth do you live? Makes it much easier to help you select a case if we know what is available and costs.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I should have done some research before, I know.. /forum/images/smilies/frown.gif
> Well, I'm using a Antec 900, it will be touching the top of the fans, let's see how it will go once set.
> 
> I'm in UK, so, overclockers.co.uk is a good option. Already done some searching around their site, and looking for cases with heights with max 200m and around ?150 would be the good call, I suppose.
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Pro M, with cooler Clearance 194 mm - I like the look, but prefer "full windows"..
> https://www.overclockers.co.uk/phanteks-enthoo-pro-m-glass-midi-tower-case-black-ca-063-pt.html
> 
> Corsair Carbide 400C, 170 mm, a bit tight, I suppose..
> https://www.overclockers.co.uk/cors...ase-black-window-cc-9011081-ww-ca-216-cs.html
> 
> Fractal Define R6 with 180 mm
> https://www.overclockers.co.uk/frac...ower-case-black-tempered-glass-ca-07g-fd.html
> 
> And a bit over ?150 what I want to spend, Phanteks Enthoo Evolv, 194mm..
> https://www.overclockers.co.uk/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-atx-glass-mid-tower-case-black-ca-054-pt.html
> 
> Is that thing, there are many manufacturers to research, but, the less, the better, as long I will be able to do some cable management, have a nice window without thick border, and is 168 mm cpu to window height, is fine.
> 
> If you have any suggestions, let me know, please!
Click to expand...

The Pro M is available with full tempered or acrylic side.


----------



## doyll

Enthoo Evolv ATX an Enthoo Pro M use same basic chassis with exteriors. 
Both are available with Tempered Glass side panel.
Pro M is lower priced.


----------



## ciarlatano

My reference was to the post saying the Pro does not have a "full window".


----------



## doyll

Link to Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass
http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Pro-M-TemperedGlass.html


----------



## thomasck

doyll said:


> Link to Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass
> http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Pro-M-TemperedGlass.html


That's the one on overclockers link! I still doing some searching, and, as much as I search, I find others models with same characteristics and price.. I think I'm going with the Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass, in case the R1 won't fit in the Antec 900. There's no reason to change case besides that. I wish I could get a case in person in any store here in London, but I don't find many..


----------



## thomasck

Update, got the mount plate for the R1 Universal, and, a Corsair 460X. Could have bought the 400C, but I would need to buy one or two fans and I would end up with the price of the 460X.

Temp-wise speaking, gone from 79C full load to 64C full load! 

Gonna update this post tomorrow with pics of the temps!

Pics

TX3










R1


----------



## doyll

thomasck said:


> Update, got the mount plate for the R1 Universal, and, a Corsair 460X. Could have bought the 400C, but I would need to buy one or two fans and I would end up with the price of the 460X.
> 
> Temp-wise speaking, gone from 79C full load to 64C full load!
> 
> Gonna update this post tomorrow with pics of the temps!


Good temps! :specool:

Condolences on the dust & finger print magnet case. :helpingha

I don't even like painted cases with shiny surface because of finger printing.

Look forward to seeing more pics and test results. :thumb:


----------



## thomasck

doyll said:


> Good temps! :specool:
> 
> Condolences on the dust & finger print magnet case. :helpingha
> 
> I don't even like painted cases with shiny surface because of finger printing.
> 
> Look forward to seeing more pics and test results. :thumb:


Thanks! I was expecting better temps, to be honest .. 

Well, it looks nice, just need to be aware of finger prints, LOL, there's plenty already even after cleaned it.. 

There's room for 3 more fans, I've bought one yesterday, HD120RGB to put in the back, and I'm planning to get two more to put on the top. I should have bought SP120RGB but got confused in the store and well, that's it. Now I'll get two more HD120RGB to put on the top (I've read many times is not necessary), and it will also increase the brightness inside the case. If is not enough, I will get a small RGB stripe.


----------



## doyll

thomasck said:


> Thanks! I was expecting better temps, to be honest ..
> 
> Well, it looks nice, just need to be aware of finger prints, LOL, there's plenty already even after cleaned it..
> 
> There's room for 3 more fans, I've bought one yesterday, HD120RGB to put in the back, and I'm planning to get two more to put on the top. I should have bought SP120RGB but got confused in the store and well, that's it. Now I'll get two more HD120RGB to put on the top (I've read many times is not necessary), and it will also increase the brightness inside the case. If is not enough, I will get a small RGB stripe.


Maybe check the temp of air going into R1 and adjust fans / fan/s speed until the air going into cooler is no more than 5c above room ambient. 
"Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig, 5th post is a basic tutorial to case airflow and cooling.


----------



## thomasck

doyll said:


> Maybe check the temp of air going into R1 and adjust fans / fan/s speed until the air going into cooler is no more than 5c above room ambient.
> "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig, 5th post is a basic tutorial to case airflow and cooling.


That's it. Time to organise cables and the rig is done. Might get a led strip to install at the bottom of the case, and that's all! 

Good temps, with those two extras 120mm fans on the top I'm not reaching 60C anymore! And is looking sexy 










Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## taowulf

Any love for the M9i?

Nice little cooler while I was making sure every thing worked. Ran under it 24/7 for several weeks until I mounted my water block.


----------



## doyll

taowulf said:


> Any love for the M9i?
> 
> Nice little cooler while I was making sure every thing worked. Ran under it 24/7 for several weeks until I mounted my water block.
> 
> snip


Nice little cooler as long as CPU is not being overclocked or more than 120w TDP. When I tested it I was impressed with how well it worked. After all at 87x102x124.6 mm it is quite small.

Out of curiosity, why did you choose to use M9i until you water cooled. I mean M9i instead of something bigger like H5 or even H7?


----------



## Aenra

Not being lazy, but it's a 380 pages long thread and the in-thread search button returned nothing for QF120 

So that being said (and again my apologies), any comments on the QF120 Performance fans?
I saw a very high advertised CFM [*83], was wondering how much of it they can push in reality; if context helps, i have a very high noise tolerance (if it's not at Delta levels, am probably O.K. with it) and am after some strong intake fans. Stronger the better, lol. This will be an air cooled build, case is a CL S8, so bit of a longer distance.

And ideas would be appreciated; i saw how cheap they are and i'm always open to supporting 'honest' products.


----------



## ciarlatano

@doyll and I were just talking about the QF120 being the weak entry in Cryorig's lineup. They are replacing it with a new 120 with supposedly much better flow and pressure.


----------



## Aenra

ciarlatano said:


> @doyll and I were just talking about the QF120 being the weak entry in Cryorig's lineup. They are replacing it with a new 120 with supposedly much better flow and pressure.


Ah, i see. Thanks for the input 
O.K., sticking to Phanteks for now then.


----------



## doyll

Aenra said:


> Ah, i see. Thanks for the input
> O.K., sticking to Phanteks for now then.


If you don't have to get them right now, watch the sales. Phanteks usually go on special several times a year. Here in UK PH-F140MP 2-pack is £8.26 making them only £8.13 each and that's with 20% tax included in the price, making them only £6.50 each before tax  PH-F120MP are £14.99 for 2-pack / £6.00 each before tax.


----------



## Aenra

(this is off topic, but i'd like to reply, so apologies to the mods)

Am actually kinda set for the PH-F120XPs, need as much air as i can get (barring eXXXtreme stuff) and so far i haven't found something better, hence my enquiring about the QFs here.

If you have something even better in mind, by all means educate; noise is not an issue for me, i take my naps next to 16 Vardars running at 2500RPM :kookoo:

* Who said growing old and deaf is bad? ^^


----------



## AlphaC

https://elchapuzasinformatico.com/2...n-sistema-de-montaje-ultrarrapido-y-sencillo/


What looks to be R5 : 6 heatpipe single tower cooler with new mounting system


----------



## doyll

AlphaC said:


> https://elchapuzasinformatico.com/2...n-sistema-de-montaje-ultrarrapido-y-sencillo/
> 
> 
> What looks to be R5 : 6 heatpipe single tower cooler with new mounting system


I believe you are corrrect, Looks like Cryorig R5 to me too. Hope it performs as good as R1.


----------



## AlphaC

Cryorig R5 confirmed.


----------



## ciarlatano

AlphaC said:


> Cryorig R5 confirmed.


Excellent. I like the design.

And this guy on the Crona...."other than the RGB, the only other noteworthy thing is the basket". Really? The increased CFM and static pressure aren't as noteworthy as the lights on a _*fan*_? Really? :doh:


----------



## doyll

ciarlatano said:


> Excellent. I like the design.
> 
> And this guy on the Crona...."other than the RGB, the only other noteworthy thing is the basket". Really? The increased CFM and static pressure aren't as noteworthy as the lights on a _*fan*_? Really? :doh:


So many talking heads doing 'reviews' and 'news'.  :doh:


----------



## AshBorer

that R5 looks like it could be a great option


----------



## doyll

AshBorer said:


> that R5 looks like it could be a great option


I'm expecting it to be similar to Thermalright TRUE Spirit coolers of which the TRUE Spirit 140 Power is one of the best available right now. NH-U14S is also quite good and yet most people never look at it .. although it is way over priced compared to $50 for TRUE Spirit 140 Power.


----------



## ruffhi

Is Cryorig up and running? I emailed support about a failed registration card 'number' about a week ago and haven't heard anything back.


----------



## ciarlatano

ruffhi said:


> Is Cryorig up and running? I emailed support about a failed registration card 'number' about a week ago and haven't heard anything back.


They just got done showing some new products, so I would assume they are. Try emailing again. I knew one of the reps there, and he had told me a couple of times they had some issues with their spam filters being too aggressive at times.


----------



## doyll

ruffhi said:


> Is Cryorig up and running? I emailed support about a failed registration card 'number' about a week ago and haven't heard anything back.


As ciarlatano said possible filter issue and they just missed it with how crazy everything is just before Computex. What email address did you send to?


----------



## poah

Aenra said:


> Not being lazy, but it's a 380 pages long thread and the in-thread search button returned nothing for QF120
> 
> So that being said (and again my apologies), any comments on the QF120 Performance fans?
> I saw a very high advertised CFM [*83], was wondering how much of it they can push in reality; if context helps, i have a very high noise tolerance (if it's not at Delta levels, am probably O.K. with it) and am after some strong intake fans. Stronger the better, lol. This will be an air cooled build, case is a CL S8, so bit of a longer distance.
> 
> And ideas would be appreciated; i saw how cheap they are and i'm always open to supporting 'honest' products.


I have the on my cryorig AIO. up to around 1400rpm you don't really hear them. They do push a lot of air at max rpm but they are also loud on my rad at that rpm (like pretty much any 120 fan). noise will also depend on what they are sucking/pushing though. 

The air flow at 1600rpm is only 49cfm so most of the performance advertised comes at higher rpm. They are fairly cheap to buy though. £20 will get you two


----------



## ciarlatano

poah said:


> I have the on my cryorig AIO. up to around 1400rpm you don't really hear them. They do push a lot of air at max rpm but they are also loud on my rad at that rpm (like pretty much any 120 fan). noise will also depend on what they are sucking/pushing though.
> 
> The air flow at 1600rpm is only 49cfm so most of the performance advertised comes at higher rpm. They are fairly cheap to buy though. £20 will get you two


He went with ML120s, as they were a much better fan for his application.


----------



## poah

ciarlatano said:


> He went with ML120s, as they were a much better fan for his application.


ah he needed less air flow at higher rpm then.


----------



## ciarlatano

poah said:


> ah he needed less air flow at higher rpm then.


I always forget that 320 is more than 400...... 

Another fine post full of accurate information and data! Peddle on!


----------



## Aenra

I remember how anxious i was to 'prove' to everyone that i no longer needed that, lol.. so they got me a proper bicycle! Aaaand first time on it, i fell straight into our rose bush! That wasn't nice, no sir.


----------



## ruffhi

doyll said:


> As ciarlatano said possible filter issue and they just missed it with how crazy everything is just before Computex. What email address did you send to?


Thru their 'contact us' option on the website. I have sent a follow up thru their cs version ([email protected] etc).


----------



## poah

ciarlatano said:


> I always forget that 320 is more than 400......
> 
> Another fine post full of accurate information and data! Peddle on!


That would be true if I was comparing air through a radiator/heatsink which would be important as the ML120 has a greater air pressure performance (which I knew and threfore would not have made the comment) but Aenra wanted intake fans (see below) and the QF120 fans push 83CFM v 75CFM for the ML120 which run at a higher RPM for that figure. So remind me about posting accurate information?

so sure I'll pedal on 














Aenra said:


> Not being lazy, but it's a 380 pages long thread and the in-thread search button returned nothing for QF120
> 
> So that being said (and again my apologies), any comments on the QF120 Performance fans?
> I saw a very high advertised CFM [*83], was wondering how much of it they can push in reality; if context helps, i have a very high noise tolerance (if it's not at Delta levels, am probably O.K. with it) *and am after some strong intake fans. Stronger the better*, lol.This will be an air cooled build, case is a CL S8, so bit of a longer distance.


----------



## ciarlatano

poah said:


> That would be true if I was comparing air through a radiator/heatsink which would be important as the ML120 has a greater air pressure performance (which I knew and threfore would not have made the comment) but Aenra wanted intake fans (see below) and the QF120 fans push 83CFM v 75CFM for the ML120 which run at a higher RPM for that figure. So remind me about posting accurate information?
> 
> so sure I'll pedal on


I see. So the slim 12 fpi rad adds restriction. In much the same way grills and dust filters would? :doh:

It's not rocket science. Stop reading marketing material and start looking at results in actual usage situations. Bad Poohbear! I'm taking away your handlebar streamers for that!


----------



## Aenra

You're lacking context and rushing to conclusions; the wrong ones. 
You've already been shown which performs better at its respective max. There's no need to derail this thread further. If you don't want to accept what people are telling you, move on; this isn't a contest.


----------



## doyll

Aenra said:


> You're lacking context and rushing to conclusions; the wrong ones.
> You've already been shown which performs better at its respective max. There's no need to derail this thread further. If you don't want to accept what people are telling you, move on; this isn't a contest.


I'm guessing at who you are referring to, but it would be nice if you told us who it is.


----------



## Aenra

doyll said:


> I'm guessing at who you are referring to, but I would be nice if you told us who it is.


Poah  
I just got ninjaed (am i not hip? Momma, am learning them new words!) by the Charlatan. He posted some seconds before i did.. It's probably a conspiracy, proliferation and obfuscation, kill that meaning, de-authorise the author, you know the deal. I will endure however.

* some seconds.. read: almost 30 minutes, lol. Anyway, petty details, below me in all honesty; it's all relative end of the day, so you petty humans can cope. 

Now can we please stick to Cryorig?


----------



## nakedpantsu

*C1 with XF140*

Hi,

Just passing through.

I'm thinking of getting a C1 and I just wanted to ask if anyone has tried replacing the fan with a XF140 and was wondering how big the difference is.


----------



## doyll

nakedpantsu said:


> Hi,
> 
> Just passing through.
> 
> I'm thinking of getting a C1 and I just wanted to ask if anyone has tried replacing the fan with a XF140 and was wondering how big the difference is.


XF140 flows a litte more air and is a little quieter so yes it will make a small difference, but I don't think enough to be worth doing. I would suggest mounting fan to pull air up though cooler instead of pushing it down toward motherboard. In my experience that usually gives 4-8c lower CPU temps.


----------



## nakedpantsu

doyll said:


> XF140 flows a litte more air and is a little quieter so yes it will make a small difference, but I don't think enough to be worth doing. I would suggest mounting fan to pull air up though cooler instead of pushing it down toward motherboard. In my experience that usually gives 4-8c lower CPU temps.


Wow, 4-8c just by flipping the fan, huh.. Thanks for your quick reply.


----------



## doyll

nakedpantsu said:


> Wow, 4-8c just by flipping the fan, huh.. Thanks for your quick reply.


No problem, thanks for the thanks. :thumb:

Here's link to why:
https://www.overclock.net/forum/22323763-post9.html


----------



## ciarlatano

nakedpantsu said:


> Wow, 4-8c just by flipping the fan, huh.. Thanks for your quick reply.


I have used the C1 in a few builds, and have tried the XF140 on it. Flipping the fan _can_ yield some pretty impressive results depending on the setup. I have had it drop temps a nice amount, but have also had it do relatively nothing. It will depend on the overall airflow in the build.

The XF140 will drop temps a couple of degrees, but the biggest improvement will be in the sound signature. If you already have the XF140 it's a nice way to go. If you don't already have it, there are better fans for the job at similar price points.


----------



## nakedpantsu

ciarlatano said:


> I have used the C1 in a few builds, and have tried the XF140 on it. Flipping the fan _can_ yield some pretty impressive results depending on the setup. I have had it drop temps a nice amount, but have also had it do relatively nothing. It will depend on the overall airflow in the build.
> 
> The XF140 will drop temps a couple of degrees, but the biggest improvement will be in the sound signature. If you already have the XF140 it's a nice way to go. If you don't already have it, there are better fans for the job at similar price points.



Thinking about it, it kinda makes sense. Since the C1 is a top-flow cooler, when it's blowing down the motherboard, the hot air might just be bouncing back up and recirculating which limits the cooling potential of the cooler. So if I use it on a mid-tower case with good airflow instead of a small form-factor case, I might not see any difference at all then. Also, thanks for your advice.


----------



## doyll

nakedpantsu said:


> Thinking about it, it kinda makes sense. Since the C1 is a top-flow cooler, when it's blowing down the motherboard, the hot air might just be bouncing back up and recirculating which limits the cooling potential of the cooler. So if I use it on a mid-tower case with good airflow instead of a small form-factor case, I might not see any difference at all then. Also, thanks for your advice.


True, but generally fan pulling gives lower CPU temps. 

Curiosity here, why use a pancake cooler? I guess I should be asking what case are you using and what it's CPU clearance is, because if you have enough CPU clearance to fit a tower cooler that's the way to go. Tower coolers don't have better cooling, but they do a much better job of keeping their heated exhaust air away from cool intake air, especially with most cases having a rear exhaust vent behind cooler. And basically every degree warmer the air into cooler is translates into a degree hotter the CPU will be.


----------



## ciarlatano

doyll said:


> Curiosity here, why use a pancake cooler?


That's a good question.....I find that pancakes are never overly hot when they get to the table. By the time you finish doing your whole butter/syrup/fruit/etc prep, there is really no chance of burning your mouth. On the other hand, I have used various methods to keep pancakes warm when I am making large batches.


----------



## doyll

ciarlatano said:


> That's a good question.....I find that pancakes are never overly hot when they get to the table. By the time you finish doing your whole butter/syrup/fruit/etc prep, there is really no chance of burning your mouth. On the other hand, I have used various methods to keep pancakes warm when I am making large batches.


Pancakes are like steaks, both must be served hot off the griddle onto a pre-heated plate with condiments quickly applied and eaten. :thumb:

Do not use TIM!!


----------



## ciarlatano

doyll said:


> Pancakes are like steaks, both must be served hot off the griddle onto a pre-heated plate with condiments quickly applied and eaten. :thumb:
> 
> Do not use TIM!!


Exactly! So, if the goal is to eat your pancakes as hot as possible from the griddle.....why would you ever use a pancake cooler? Unless you have somehow developed a fancy for McDonald's breakfasts, and want your pancakes cold, soggy and somewhat cardboard-like in flavor.


----------



## doyll

ciarlatano said:


> Exactly! So, if the goal is to eat your pancakes as hot as possible from the griddle.....why would you ever use a pancake cooler? Unless you have somehow developed a fancy for McDonald's breakfasts, and want your pancakes cold, soggy and somewhat cardboard-like in flavor.


Pancake coolers don't cool pancakes or flapjacks but are a variant of downflow CPU coolers. I don't eat CPU coolers so don't care if they get hot, but I do care if my CPU gets hot.


----------



## ciarlatano

doyll said:


> Pancake coolers don't cool pancakes or flapjacks but are a variant of downflow CPU coolers. I don't eat CPU coolers so don't care if they get hot, but I do care if my CPU gets hot.


Ah, well you can see where the confusion comes from.


----------



## doyll

ciarlatano said:


> Ah, well you can see where the confusion comes from.


Go pull on some elses pancake chain.


----------



## bug-a-boo

So after much thinking and reading on air coolers I came across this thread and checked out the R1 U and ordered it today for my aging Asrock 990FX pro board with an old 8120 that clocks very well . 

I'm ditching my very expensive custom water cooling kit to try this cooler. I was going to get the NH-D15 , but after more research , and a nice discount from CryoRig, I bought the R1U.


----------



## doyll

bug-a-boo said:


> So after much thinking and reading on air coolers I came across this thread and checked out the R1 U and ordered it today for my aging Asrock 990FX pro board with an old 8120 that clocks very well .
> 
> I'm ditching my very expensive custom water cooling kit to try this cooler. I was going to get the NH-D15 , but after more research , and a nice discount from CryoRig, I bought the R1U.


Not sure what cooler you are getting because both R1 cooler are 'U', one is R1 Ultimate and other is R1 Universal.


----------



## bug-a-boo

lol sorry I just realized this. I am getting the Ultimate, not the Uni.


----------



## doyll

bug-a-boo said:


> lol sorry I just realized this. I am getting the Ultimate, not the Uni.


I was guessing that was what you were getting. Both have same cooling ability but Universal has thin front fan which doesn't move quite as much air. The univeral has slightly different heatpipe shapes and fins so front of cooler's front fin pack is about 5mm closer to CPU / farther away from RAM and with 15mm thick front fan it fits behind RAM. 4th post this thread shows the differences.


----------



## thomasck

After 3 months with the R1 Universal here are my temps. No changes in the thermal paste, but I think I will do it again any time soon, sometimes I think the CPU temp (if I can trust those readings) is a bit high!

1800X @ 3.85GHz VCPU 1.312V

The case is a Corsair 460X with 3x120MM on the front, 2x120MM on the top and one 120MM on the back, all SP model.. Set to 100% when TCTL reaches 70C (so when CPU is around 50C).

For what I expected from the R1, the temps could be a bit better. 

EDIT

For some reason CPU Fan is at 748RPM, dunno why, but actually is around 1500RPM with this same temperature.


----------



## Aenra

Have a follow up! ..bout, err, couple of months later, but age does things to people 
@*ciarlatano* (sorry for tagging, no pressure, no, really; chronometers next to me are just for show) you once said the QF120s were bad or subpar; in what way if you don't mind saying? Noise, performance, scaling?


----------



## ciarlatano

Aenra said:


> Have a follow up! ..bout, err, couple of months later, but age does things to people
> @*ciarlatano* (sorry for tagging, no pressure, no, really; chronometers next to me are just for show) you once said the QF120s were bad or subpar; in what way if you don't mind saying? Noise, performance, scaling?


They are mediocre performers and a bit grating sounding. They aren't terrible fans, there is just much better out there for the money, most of which are much nicer on the ears. The reference i made was that they were subpar when compared to the rest of the Cryorig lineup.


----------



## Aenra

ciarlatano said:


> a bit grating sounding


That's a bonus, lol.. used to run Vardars at 3K, just so as to piss her off; not only did it work e-v-e-r-y single time, it also made her leave the room! Miracles! I now employ said tactic in a pre-emptive manner, so she doesn't get to come down in the mancave(tm) at all. Man and his island; at all costs.
If you reply, remember to SHOUT. 

Anyway, thanks for the info


----------



## bug-a-boo

Ok ..quick question I hope someone can answer?
I got the R1 Ultimate but the cooler does not come with a backplate for AMD AM3 . I had a backplate but it was old and the screws for the mounting kit do not fit the backplate. I need to purchase a new one ,but have no idea if the new plate I purchase will fit the mounting screws either ? Anyone have any advice on backplates ?


----------



## doyll

bug-a-boo said:


> Ok ..quick question I hope someone can answer?
> I got the R1 Ultimate but the cooler does not come with a backplate for AMD AM3 . I had a backplate but it was old and the screws for the mounting kit do not fit the backplate. I need to purchase a new one ,but have no idea if the new plate I purchase will fit the mounting screws either ? Anyone have any advice on backplates ?


You bought a new R1 Ultimate and it does not have and AMD backplate in the mounting kit? I would register it and contact Cryorig support with your registration and explain it is missing and they will most likely send you one. 

If you bought it used I would still contact Cryorig support.


----------



## bug-a-boo

Yup it was brand new from newegg, but the directions do not list a backplate for AMD AM3? I did contact support and they never got back to me .


----------



## ciarlatano

bug-a-boo said:


> Yup it was brand new from newegg, but the directions do not list a backplate for AMD AM3? I did contact support and they never got back to me .


I don't recall it coming with an AM3 backplate, I believe it uses the stock backplate like 99% of coolers. It sounds like you are using the wrong standoffs.


----------



## doyll

ciarlatano said:


> I don't recall it coming with an AM3 backplate, I believe it uses the stock backplate like 99% of coolers. It sounds like you are using the wrong standoffs.


What ciarlatano said.  I've been too long without doing any AMD builds. 

Edit: 17.08; I just dug out my R1 Universal and it has AMD front & back mounting plate with 48x96mm stud/hole spacing. This is spacing for AM2(+), AM3(+), FM1, & FM2(+) but not for AM4 because I got this R1 Universal shortly after they were first released. Also check R1 Ultimate, H7 and M8i .. only M8i does not have AMD mount back plate with H7 having a plastic one. Found H5 but it is missing mount box from it's box  .. and I received it before offical outer boxing so no labeling on box. 

I'm in Europe so maybe some into USA are/were different.


----------



## bug-a-boo

No , right stand offs , I'm thinking it's possible something somewhere was changed? Like maybe the companies making the backplates aren't using the right sizes ? Also , cryo just does not respond ,so looks like I'm going to have to file a report against them . I wouldn't recommend .


----------



## bajer29

bug-a-boo said:


> No , right stand offs , I'm thinking it's possible something somewhere was changed? Like maybe the companies making the backplates aren't using the right sizes ? Also , cryo just does not respond ,so looks like I'm going to have to file a report against them . I wouldn't recommend .


How long ago did you contact support? How did you contact them?


----------



## doyll

bug-a-boo said:


> No , right stand offs , I'm thinking it's possible something somewhere was changed? Like maybe the companies making the backplates aren't using the right sizes ? Also , cryo just does not respond ,so looks like I'm going to have to file a report against them . I wouldn't recommend .


What bajer29 said. 

As before, I don't remember any R1 coolers only having Intel mounts .. but I can't remember what I had for supper last night. The only one I remember not having AMD is M9i. I dug out R1 Universal and R1 Ultimate .. both have AMD mounting except for AM4. C7 has plastic mount for both Intel and AMD. M8i is only Intel .. which is what the 'i' on end is for.


----------



## bug-a-boo

Crap sorry , I didn't see this . I contacted them about a month ago ,then two weeks after the first and again last week . I contacted them using the email form ,or the leave a message . If it wasn't such a hassle to return newegg stuff I'd definitely go with Noctua. Noctua's support was prompt and helpful , I really want to say the same for Cryo ,but sadly can't 😞


----------



## bug-a-boo

I wish they included mounting hardware with R1 Ultimate. It's really a poor excuse for a 100 dollar cooler not to have universal mounting,or a .2c piece of plastic. I've been building and buying PC parts for 20 years ,and it's only been recently that companies started not giving full mounting hardware. I've water cooled for the past 13 ,and most water cooling hardware in this price range include "all" mounting for past and present boards , including back plates .


----------



## doyll

bug-a-boo said:


> Crap sorry , I didn't see this . I contacted them about a month ago ,then two weeks after the first and again last week . I contacted them using the email form ,or the leave a message . If it wasn't such a hassle to return newegg stuff I'd definitely go with Noctua. Noctua's support was prompt and helpful , I really want to say the same for Cryo ,but sadly can't 😞


I've never had any problems getting promp replys from Cryorig. This is not how they normally operate.



bug-a-boo said:


> I wish they included mounting hardware with R1 Ultimate. It's really a poor excuse for a 100 dollar cooler not to have universal mounting,or a .2c piece of plastic. I've been building and buying PC parts for 20 years ,and it's only been recently that companies started not giving full mounting hardware. I've water cooled for the past 13 ,and most water cooling hardware in this price range include "all" mounting for past and present boards , including back plates .


I've checked around and all the Cryorig R1 Ultimate coolers I find on internet say for Intel and AMD use .. meaning they come with both mounts and now also have AM4 compatibility.

I assume you are in USA?


----------



## ride1226

Hi all. Currently running a H7 Quad Lumi in my build as the case I unknowingly picked only had the height to support a cooler of that size. Recently I swapped cases to a Fractal Meshify C Mini which gave me more CPU cooler height clearance. I also switched from my delidded i5 7600k to a i7 7700k. I do overclock and currently am running my 7700k at 4.8ghz hitting temps in the lower 70s under stress testing. I am toying with the idea of moving to a larger cooler to head for 5.0ghz and hopefully keep temps similar to what they are now. That being said I love the Cryorig lineup and have been eyeballing the R1 Ultimate, R1 Universal, and now the new R5 that has been announced. I am also curious about the all copper heat sinks that were shown but cant seem to find them anywhere. I am running the Asus z270g micro ATX board if that helps give an idea about Ram clearance issues that may pop up.

Just wanted to get everyone's opinion on if it would be worth moving away from my Quad Lumi. I know the Quad Lumi gained a 4th heat pipe over the normal H7 which I am sure adds to its performance just not sure how much there is to be gained by going with a bigger cooler. Thanks all.


----------



## doyll

ride1226 said:


> Hi all. Currently running a H7 Quad Lumi in my build as the case I unknowingly picked only had the height to support a cooler of that size. Recently I swapped cases to a Fractal Meshify C Mini which gave me more CPU cooler height clearance. I also switched from my delidded i5 7600k to a i7 7700k. I do overclock and currently am running my 7700k at 4.8ghz hitting temps in the lower 70s under stress testing. I am toying with the idea of moving to a larger cooler to head for 5.0ghz and hopefully keep temps similar to what they are now. That being said I love the Cryorig lineup and have been eyeballing the R1 Ultimate, R1 Universal, and now the new R5 that has been announced. I am also curious about the all copper heat sinks that were shown but cant seem to find them anywhere. I am running the Asus z270g micro ATX board if that helps give an idea about Ram clearance issues that may pop up.
> 
> Just wanted to get everyone's opinion on if it would be worth moving away from my Quad Lumi. I know the Quad Lumi gained a 4th heat pipe over the normal H7 which I am sure adds to its performance just not sure how much there is to be gained by going with a bigger cooler. Thanks all.


First thing I would do is replace the front intakes with fans that actually work .. something like PH-F140MP .. and remove all PCIe back slot covers. A couple weeks ago I helped another Meshify C owner to do this and his temps dropped about 8c with much less noise too. it was on an Ryzen 2700x with Wraith Prism, now changed to Thermalrigh ARO-M14. Meshify C is nice case but it's fans are horribly low pressure rated so only flow a reasonable amount of air at full speed .. about the same amount better fans will flow at about 800rpm. 

H7 Quad Lumi is a good little cooler, key word being little. Bigger coolers will give better cooling with less noise. 

Your Aus ROG Strix Z270G Gaming has 70mm center CPU to near side of PCie socket and 52.3 to near side of RAM socket. 

Cryorig R1 Universal is 70mm center CPU toward PCie and 52mm toward RAM so will be a tight fit. 

I have not seen anything about R5 but what was at Computex 2018. Hopefully we will see it soon.


----------



## ciarlatano

ride1226 said:


> Hi all. Currently running a H7 Quad Lumi in my build as the case I unknowingly picked only had the height to support a cooler of that size. Recently I swapped cases to a Fractal Meshify C Mini which gave me more CPU cooler height clearance. I also switched from my delidded i5 7600k to a i7 7700k. I do overclock and currently am running my 7700k at 4.8ghz hitting temps in the lower 70s under stress testing. I am toying with the idea of moving to a larger cooler to head for 5.0ghz and hopefully keep temps similar to what they are now. That being said I love the Cryorig lineup and have been eyeballing the R1 Ultimate, R1 Universal, and now the new R5 that has been announced. I am also curious about the all copper heat sinks that were shown but cant seem to find them anywhere. I am running the Asus z270g micro ATX board if that helps give an idea about Ram clearance issues that may pop up.
> 
> Just wanted to get everyone's opinion on if it would be worth moving away from my Quad Lumi. I know the Quad Lumi gained a 4th heat pipe over the normal H7 which I am sure adds to its performance just not sure how much there is to be gained by going with a bigger cooler. Thanks all.





doyll said:


> First thing I would do is replace the front intakes with fans that actually work .. something like PH-F140MP .. and remove all PCIe back slot covers. A couple weeks ago I helped another Meshify C owner to do this and his temps dropped about 8c with much less noise too. it was on an Ryzen 2700x with Wraith Prism, now changed to Thermalrigh ARO-M14. Meshify C is nice case but it's fans are horribly low pressure rated so only flow a reasonable amount of air at full speed .. about the same amount better fans will flow at about 800rpm.


I would second the @doyll recommendation. The Fractal fans are awful. Changing to a larger cooler isn't going to help if it can't get adequate fresh air, so you are going to need to change them no matter what. Start with the intake fans and see where that gets you. If you need more, then look at an R1 Universal or Ultimate. The H5 will get you little or no gain over the H7 Quad, but will have a smoother sound profile.


----------



## thomasck

Do any of you guys recommend replacing the fans of the R1 universal? 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## ciarlatano

thomasck said:


> Do any of you guys recommend replacing the fans of the R1 universal?
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


Only if you don't like the sound profile. Performance gains will be minimal if any at like speeds and noise levels.


----------



## thomasck

ciarlatano said:


> Only if you don't like the sound profile. Performance gains will be minimal if any at like speeds and noise levels.


Don't mind about the noise, even at full speed the others 5 fans suppress the cpu fan noise.. gonna keep the stock one then, thanks.

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## doyll

thomasck said:


> Do any of you guys recommend replacing the fans of the R1 universal?
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


What ciarlatano said. 

While the thin 13mm XT140 front fan on R1 Universal is not as nice as XF140 25mm thick middle fan, but the reason front fan is thin is to fit behind RAM that is too tall to allow a 140mm fan to set on top of.


----------



## thomasck

doyll said:


> What ciarlatano said.
> 
> While the thin 13mm XT140 front fan on R1 Universal is not as nice as XF140 25mm thick middle fan, but the reason front fan is thin is to fit behind RAM that is too tall to allow a 140mm fan to set on top of.


Yeah, that's alright, gonna stick with the original ones.. looking closer, I think I've got space for a 25mm thick fan on the front.. 

I just considered improving cooling cause I'm getting around 73.XC full load, 1800X, 3.9GHz, 1.35V.


----------



## ride1226

doyll said:


> ride1226 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi all. Currently running a H7 Quad Lumi in my build as the case I unknowingly picked only had the height to support a cooler of that size. Recently I swapped cases to a Fractal Meshify C Mini which gave me more CPU cooler height clearance. I also switched from my delidded i5 7600k to a i7 7700k. I do overclock and currently am running my 7700k at 4.8ghz hitting temps in the lower 70s under stress testing. I am toying with the idea of moving to a larger cooler to head for 5.0ghz and hopefully keep temps similar to what they are now. That being said I love the Cryorig lineup and have been eyeballing the R1 Ultimate, R1 Universal, and now the new R5 that has been announced. I am also curious about the all copper heat sinks that were shown but cant seem to find them anywhere. I am running the Asus z270g micro ATX board if that helps give an idea about Ram clearance issues that may pop up.
> 
> Just wanted to get everyone's opinion on if it would be worth moving away from my Quad Lumi. I know the Quad Lumi gained a 4th heat pipe over the normal H7 which I am sure adds to its performance just not sure how much there is to be gained by going with a bigger cooler. Thanks all.
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I would do is replace the front intakes with fans that actually work .. something like PH-F140MP .. and remove all PCIe back slot covers. A couple weeks ago I helped another Meshify C owner to do this and his temps dropped about 8c with much less noise too. it was on an Ryzen 2700x with Wraith Prism, now changed to Thermalrigh ARO-M14. Meshify C is nice case but it's fans are horribly low pressure rated so only flow a reasonable amount of air at full speed .. about the same amount better fans will flow at about 800rpm.
> 
> H7 Quad Lumi is a good little cooler, key word being little. Bigger coolers will give better cooling with less noise.
> 
> Your Aus ROG Strix Z270G Gaming has 70mm center CPU to near side of PCie socket and 52.3 to near side of RAM socket.
> 
> Cryorig R1 Universal is 70mm center CPU toward PCie and 52mm toward RAM so will be a tight fit.
> 
> I have not seen anything about R5 but what was at Computex 2018. Hopefully we will see it soon.
Click to expand...




ciarlatano said:


> ride1226 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi all. Currently running a H7 Quad Lumi in my build as the case I unknowingly picked only had the height to support a cooler of that size. Recently I swapped cases to a Fractal Meshify C Mini which gave me more CPU cooler height clearance. I also switched from my delidded i5 7600k to a i7 7700k. I do overclock and currently am running my 7700k at 4.8ghz hitting temps in the lower 70s under stress testing. I am toying with the idea of moving to a larger cooler to head for 5.0ghz and hopefully keep temps similar to what they are now. That being said I love the Cryorig lineup and have been eyeballing the R1 Ultimate, R1 Universal, and now the new R5 that has been announced. I am also curious about the all copper heat sinks that were shown but cant seem to find them anywhere. I am running the Asus z270g micro ATX board if that helps give an idea about Ram clearance issues that may pop up.
> 
> Just wanted to get everyone's opinion on if it would be worth moving away from my Quad Lumi. I know the Quad Lumi gained a 4th heat pipe over the normal H7 which I am sure adds to its performance just not sure how much there is to be gained by going with a bigger cooler. Thanks all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> doyll said:
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I would do is replace the front intakes with fans that actually work .. something like PH-F140MP .. and remove all PCIe back slot covers. A couple weeks ago I helped another Meshify C owner to do this and his temps dropped about 8c with much less noise too. it was on an Ryzen 2700x with Wraith Prism, now changed to Thermalrigh ARO-M14. Meshify C is nice case but it's fans are horribly low pressure rated so only flow a reasonable amount of air at full speed .. about the same amount better fans will flow at about 800rpm.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I would second the @doyll recommendation. The Fractal fans are awful. Changing to a larger cooler isn't going to help if it can't get adequate fresh air, so you are going to need to change them no matter what. Start with the intake fans and see where that gets you. If you need more, then look at an R1 Universal or Ultimate. The H5 will get you little or no gain over the H7 Quad, but will have a smoother sound profile.
Click to expand...

Thanks doyll. I actually bought those fans last year when I first set this build up in my old phantek p400s tg. I moved them over to my meshify so already running those and your previous recommendation of removing the pcie covers as well. Was just more curious about the cooler setup and opinions of the best options to go with, cryorig or not. Should I give the universal a go or look elsewhere? Thanks again!


----------



## doyll

ride1226 said:


> Thanks doyll. I actually bought those fans last year when I first set this build up in my old phantek p400s tg. I moved them over to my meshify so already running those and your previous recommendation of removing the pcie covers as well. Was just more curious about the cooler setup and opinions of the best options to go with, cryorig or not. Should I give the universal a go or look elsewhere? Thanks again!


R1 Universal is very good as is. Changing fans will only gain you a couple degrees. I would monitor temp of airflow into CPU and GPU fans when system is working very hard and set fan curves so case fans move enough airflow to supply components with air from 0-5c above ambient .. because this is usually the best way to improve temps. Every degree warmer the air into component's cooler translates into almost exactly a degree hotter component will run. You mioght find the guide in below link to how airflow works and how to optimize case airflow: https://www.overclock.net/forum/22319249-post5.html


----------



## bug-a-boo

Just wanted to update on what happened with my R1 Ult . I called Newegg support after no responses from Cryo ( i waited a month fyi), and both the manager and the tech agreed they were returning the cooler as "defective' for not having all installation hardware, and the manager was not impressed with Cryo's support either as the information Cryo gave them was not accurate , and no one could contact them. It's too bad as the cooler was a site to behold and I was super impressed by the design , and even the packaging lol . As is though , i can not recommenced Cryorig because of their non existent support sadly and will not be buying anything from them in the future , and usually companies with bad support don't last long anyway. Even Noctua offered to send me a back plate for free with a purchase of their cooler , and any other hardware for future releases for free. 

Ended up with a Enermax ETS-T50 which comes with very well designed universal mounting hardware , and the cooler looks really sharp and does an amazing job .


----------



## Lexi is Dumb

Can the XF140 on the H5 Ultimate be replaced with a noctua NF-A15? ty


----------



## ciarlatano

Lexi is Dumb said:


> Can the XF140 on the H5 Ultimate be replaced with a noctua NF-A15? ty


Of course.


----------



## doyll

Lexi is Dumb said:


> Can the XF140 on the H5 Ultimate be replaced with a noctua NF-A15? ty


It can be used but might need the fan clips modified a little. Have you considered using Phanteks PH-F140HP_II fan? It is easily as good ad A15 and probably less money. I used Thermalrigh TY-147A fans on my Cryorig R1. 









User Shneiky used some same on his R1 with below results.








https://www.overclock.net/forum/25608634-post2876.html


----------



## ozlay

@doyll What's the difference between the PH-F140HP_II and the PH-F140TS. I am looking for something quieter then the PH-F140HP_II?

I might even replace my PH-F140XP's if the PH-F140TS is any good.


----------



## ciarlatano

ozlay said:


> @doyll What's the difference between the PH-F140HP_II and the PH-F140TS. I am looking for something quieter then the PH-F140HP_II?
> 
> I might even replace my PH-F140XP's if the PH-F140TS is any good.


The TS was two gens prior to the HP_II. It was louder and moved less air than the HP_II, and also did not have PWM. It was essentially a round framed F140SP.


----------



## ozlay

ciarlatano said:


> The TS was two gens prior to the HP_II. It was louder and moved less air than the HP_II, and also did not have PWM. It was essentially a round framed F140SP.


How does that compare to the XP's.

Their website says the TS is quieter then the HP_II. That is why i was wondering.


----------



## ciarlatano

ozlay said:


> How does that compare to the XP's.
> 
> Their website says the TS is quieter then the HP_II. That is why i was wondering.


The XP is an SP with PWM.


----------



## doyll

ozlay said:


> @doyll What's the difference between the PH-F140HP_II and the PH-F140TS. I am looking for something quieter then the PH-F140HP_II?
> 
> I might even replace my PH-F140XP's if the PH-F140TS is any good.


Basically what ciarlatano said. 

What speed are you running your PH-F140HP_II at? 
I'm also curious as to why you are asking about Phanteks cooler fans in Cryorig cooler thread.


----------



## ozlay

doyll said:


> Basically what ciarlatano said.
> 
> What speed are you running your PH-F140HP_II at?
> I'm also curious as to why you are asking about Phanteks cooler fans in Cryorig cooler thread.




Because I have a pair of PH-F140HP_II's on the R1. I believe they are running around 800rpm. But sometimes jump up to 1200 or so under load.


----------



## doyll

ozlay said:


> Because I have a pair of PH-F140HP_II's on the R1. I believe they are running around 800rpm. But sometimes jump up to 1200 or so under load.


That makes sense. At those speeds I'm surprised they sound loud, but maybe your ears are more sensitive than mine.

Are PH-F140HP_II fans better than original R1 fans? 

I switched my R1 to TY-147A fans with cooler and quieter results. Haven't tried PH-F140HP_II on it.


----------



## shellashock

Has anyone heard anything from Cryorig about their Frostbit M.2 cooler since they showed at Computex 2018? I have to admit I am really curious to how it will perform and wanted to know if I missed anything.


----------



## doyll

shellashock said:


> Has anyone heard anything from Cryorig about their Frostbit M.2 cooler since they showed at Computex 2018? I have to admit I am really curious to how it will perform and wanted to know if I missed anything.


I haven't heard anything. I'll try and find out what is going on.


----------



## alecuba16

Hello, its possible to fit noctuas NF-A14 fans with the included moutings? I know that this moutings are designed for 120mm mounting holes, but I want to know if is possible to change the shape the necessary to fit two NF-A14 since they give better airflow (83CFM vs 74CFM) and almost same noise level (24db -25db)


----------



## doyll

alecuba16 said:


> Hello, its possible to fit noctuas NF-A14 fans with the included moutings? I know that this moutings are designed for 120mm mounting holes, but I want to know if is possible to change the shape the necessary to fit two NF-A14 since they give better airflow (83CFM vs 74CFM) and almost same noise level (24db -25db)


It would require some major modifications to fan clips to fit NF-A14's bigger mounting hole spacing. I I'm using TY-147A fans (Thermalright) on my R1. I haven't doe it but am told PH-F140HP_II fans (Phanteks) will also fit with existing mounts.


----------



## ciarlatano

alecuba16 said:


> Hello, its possible to fit noctuas NF-A14 fans with the included moutings? I know that this moutings are designed for 120mm mounting holes, but I want to know if is possible to change the shape the necessary to fit two NF-A14 since they give better airflow (83CFM vs 74CFM) and almost same noise level (24db -25db)


Bear in mind that it is only higher CFM at max speed, and that is only because it has a higher max speed. Do you plan to run the fans at max speed at all times? Yeah....I didn't think so.

That said, the Noctua is distinctly a smoother sounding fan. But, there are smoother sounding fans that will offer better performance at like noise and rpm levels such as the be quiet Silent Wings 3, Phanteks F140HP II (which has the same mounting as the XF140 so no tweaking the brackets) and even the NF-A15 would be a better choice since it is a 1200rpm NF-A14 that actually fits your application.

Simply looking at published specs will be very misleading, as they will only tell you what the fan may or not be (some of the published specs are ridiculously overrated compared to independent tests) capable of with absolutely no restriction at full speed. This is obviously not your intended use for the fan. You would be far better looking at reviews from the likes of Thermalbench that will give you actual information on how fans perform in your intended usage as below.


----------



## doyll

A bit over the top, but Thermalright has several 153x141x26.5mm round-ish fans with 105mm mounting holes in use. TY-14013R (red/blk) PWM (13mm thick)
TY-140 discontinued (grey/tan) 600-1300rpm PWM
TY-147 discontinued (blk/wte) 600-1300rpm PWM
TY-147A (blk/wte) 300-1300rpm PWM
TY-147B (blk/wte) 300-1300rpm slotted shroud PWM

TY-141 discontinued 600-1300rpm ball bearing PWM
TY-141SV (grn/tan) 300-1300rpm PWM

TY-143 (red/org) 600-2500rpm ball bearing PWM
TY-143B (red/org) 600-1800rpm FDB PWM
TY-140 Plus (blk/blk) 600-1500rpm sleeve bearing PWM
TY-140 Black 300-1300rpm PWM

TY-142 (blk/blk) 800rpm 3-pin​Even a 120mm versionTY-127 (blk/wte) 300-1300rpm slotted shroud PWM
​Sadly most are only available on coolers.


----------



## shellashock

Since we are getting close to Computex 2019 starting, I decided to take a look and see if I could find anymore information about Cryorig Frostbit and found a pre-release German review here: http://game2gether.de/os_hardware/cryorig-frostbit-test-review/

The gist is a ~30 euro 25W passive cooler that provides a significant cooling advantage to the NAND flash in minimal airflow environments. Hopefully we will get more information and tests from other outlets eventually.
Cyrorig Frostbit Temperature Comparison
Cryorig Frostbit Installed


----------



## ForestRain

*Hello !

Anyone of you guys know how to contact to oficcial representative of CRYORIG company?*


----------



## Gilles3000

ForestRain said:


> *Hello !
> 
> Anyone of you guys know how to contact to oficcial representative of CRYORIG company?*


Have you tried their contact page?

http://www.cryorig.com/contact_us.php


----------



## doyll

What Gilles3000 posted. :thumb:
But now is worst time of year to be trying to contact anyone in computer industry. Computex 2019 is happening and they are all involved there.


----------



## Elrick

Just bought his little baby off PCCG;

https://www.pccasegear.com/products/45417/cryorig-c7-full-copper-graphene-coated-top-flow-cpu-cooler

It shall, hopefully keep my 2400G cool on a B450M Steel Legend (stupid name) motherboard.


----------



## doyll

I have normal C7 on my HTPC and like it. Only thing I did was change fan to pull air up through cooler, then it flows away. Problem I've found with these low profile down-flow cooler is air goes down through cooler, hits mobo and turns out, hits GPU, RAM and turns up along side of cooler and fan and is then drawn back into fan .. meaning cooler is re-using it's own heated air. Link below show what I mean.
https://www.overclock.net/forum/22323763-post9.html


----------



## Elrick

doyll said:


> Problem I've found with these low profile down-flow cooler is air goes down through cooler, hits mobo and turns out, hits GPU, RAM and turns up along side of cooler and fan and is then drawn back into fan .. meaning cooler is re-using it's own heated air. Link below show what I mean.
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/22323763-post9.html


Was worried about that occurring here so I had bought two Noctua A12x25-FLX fans, to blow in fresh air from down below the case opening (Silverstone Fortress FT03).

Hopefully the air circulates around the C7 and extracts it upwards and out of the case altogether. Don't have a Video Card installed, thanks to the 2400G gear.

Looks like my C7 is Full Copper, weighs far more than some of my Thermalright's made some years ago. Something so small in size, yet can possibly cave a man's head in - easily.

Just don't like the look of all Black everywhere, would be nice to spot some real copper colour as a reminder of what is sitting on top of the Cpu. They call it 'Graphene' colour yet I've got several real Graphene pads to use with this cooler. Just love using it, never need to ever waste time with awful, sticky pastes again.


In fact I swapped out the first Graphene pad I used with my 1800X Ryzen and shall be re-using it with the 2400G. It was already cut perfectly to size here.


----------



## doyll

Elrick said:


> Was worried about that occurring here so I had bought two Noctua A12x25-FLX fans, to blow in fresh air from down below the case opening (Silverstone Fortress FT03).
> 
> Hopefully the air circulates around the C7 and extracts it upwards and out of the case altogether. Don't have a Video Card installed, thanks to the 2400G gear.
> 
> Looks like my C7 is Full Copper, weighs far more than some of my Thermalright's made some years ago. Something so small in size, yet can possibly cave a man's head in - easily.
> 
> Just don't like the look of all Black everywhere, would be nice to spot some real copper colour as a reminder of what is sitting on top of the Cpu. They call it 'Graphene' colour yet I've got several real Graphene pads to use with this cooler. Just love using it, never need to ever waste time with awful, sticky pastes again.
> 
> 
> In fact I swapped out the first Graphene pad I used with my 1800X Ryzen and shall be re-using it with the 2400G. It was already cut perfectly to size here.


Sweet! Sounds like a well planned project. I'm looking at my next build being AMD .. after many years of Intel. Did you find the Graphene pads to be as good (hopefully better) than good TIM?


----------



## Elrick

doyll said:


> Sweet! Sounds like a well planned project. I'm looking at my next build being AMD .. after many years of Intel.


I was like you having used Intel over many generations here, switching over to another camp had me frightened on one point because all the required drivers needed for a complete and sound Intel install wasn't required anymore.

Instead with AMD you get it all bundled inside their usual, updated chipset and graphics drivers. Which are readily provided. NO need to hunt the outer web looking for that unique driver to run with the latest Intel release.



doyll said:


> Did you find the Graphene pads to be as good (hopefully better) than good TIM?


Have used them for over 6 months now so I would say they are completely comparable to the latest Liquid Metal thermal liquids/pastes.

But since you are dealing with a completely inert sheet of Graphene instead of Gallium (the main metal used in liquid metal thermal pastes) it will never attack or corrode any heatsink regardless of what it's made out of, especially Aluminium.

Another thing of note when running multi cores these days, in the past when you apply any type of heatsink paste over the IHS area, you will get discrepancies in temps. Like some temps will be higher than other areas of the cpu. Always happens at my place, maybe due to my own inadequacies as a thermal paste applicator.

Since using the Graphene sheets ALL the temps whether you are using a 12, 8 or 6 core design, reads all the temps 100% equally. Because the Graphene sheet is equally compressed under the heatsink and on top of the cpu here. Very important when dealing with overall contact and with overclocking.

Also I had removed my Heatsink and the Graphene sheet, which sits loosely on top of the cpu area. Low and behold, everything looks like NEW. No blemishes on the surfaces of the heatsink or cpu IHS area. Even the Graphene sheet, looks the same it did when I first purchased it and cut it down to size (slightly).

Overall very pleased in having used it because the Graphene is unaffected with temps whether over or below, most heatsink paste requirements. Also humidity and dryness doesn't seem to do anything with the Graphene structure.

Have to admit, this discovery would be the single most important 21st century design and development. It simply works over and above everything else that is currently available for cooling high performance CPU's with a variety of heatsinks. Basically what makes the Graphene pads so extraordinary here, is that very same pad can be reused possibly a hundred times over (thousands of upgrades in the future).

My Grand-kiddies will be using this very same Graphene Pad, that I am currently using or unless in the far distant future CPU's and heatsink's become obsolete in some way......


----------



## doyll

Sounds like the bee's knees. :thumb:
Wish it wasn't so expensive.


----------



## speedhunter

doyll said:


> It would require some major modifications to fan clips to fit NF-A14's bigger mounting hole spacing. I I'm using TY-147A fans (Thermalright) on my R1. I haven't doe it but am told PH-F140HP_II fans (Phanteks) will also fit with existing mounts.


In your test, is this fan better than stock fan or PH-F140HP II? I'm more interested in PH-F140HP II for my white build


----------



## doyll

speedhunter said:


> In your test, is this fan better than stock fan or PH-F140HP II? I'm more interested in PH-F140HP II for my white build


 Both are very good. Both have very pleasant sound at high speeds. But in a absolute which is best testing the PH-F140HP is slightly better, but only because it's max speed is 300rpm faster. Thermalright is now making TY-149 600-1500rpm and TY-143B 600-1800rpm fans, but they only come on TA 140 and Silver Arrow T8 coolers. 

TY-147A is 300-1300rpm, 1.56mm H2O, 64cfm 

PH-F140HP II is 500-1600rpm, 1.62mm H2O, 68.1cfm


Some time in the next couple of months I should be getting these coolers to test and will post up the results.


----------



## Nopileus

Shame about the terrible support responsiveness, i've found some posts across the last year complaining about the same thing so i can't even blame it on Computex.

I've been trying to get the bracket that holds the big mounting screws with the springs for my R1 Universal as the ones my cooler shipped with are still the smaller diameter design (that people kept overtightening and snapping) which won't fit the AM4 bracket they sell commercially.
It's been five or six weeks now with nothing back, not even an automated response.

At least stores seem to still be receiving stock so it appears they're still in business.

Edit:
From what i'm seeing i'd have to guess Cryorig employed one person to handle social media and customer support and that person must have left some time in late january or february, 
ever since then all their accounts have been dead silent and people haven't been able to get responses.


----------



## Miptzi

Hey guys, just got a h7 from eBay... And getting "bad" temps on r5 1600 @3.7ghz and 1.25v.

I read about the h7 being convex and better suited for Intel and it's centered chip under ihs. Lots of online complaints about h7 underperforming on Ryzen.

Anyone here experienced it? Lapping the baseplate could solve it?


----------



## doyll

Miptzi said:


> Hey guys, just got a h7 from eBay... And getting "bad" temps on r5 1600 @3.7ghz and 1.25v.
> 
> I read about the h7 being convex and better suited for Intel and it's centered chip under ihs. Lots of online complaints about h7 underperforming on Denzel.
> 
> Anyone here experienced it? Lapping the baseplate could solve it?


What is air temp into cooler compared to air temp in room? What case and fan setup do you have? If case is not flowing air properly (many do not) the air going into cooler can be 8-10-16c hotter than room air and every degree warmer air into cooler is translates into same number of degrees hotter CPU will be.


----------



## Miptzi

doyll said:


> What is air temp into cooler compared to air temp in room? What case and fan setup do you have? If case is not flowing air properly (many do not) the air going into cooler can be 8-10-16c hotter than room air and every degree warmer air into cooler is translates into same number of degrees hotter CPU will be.


Getting 35°C above roomtemp with the case closed, idle at desktop and light loads.... Lets not even talk about heavy load temps....

The case is poor in airflow (Metis) but that is unacceptable.

Open case still 25°C above room idle... Cooler was reseated plenty of times.... It wobbles a little over a glass table, so it's really convex...


----------



## doyll

Miptzi said:


> Getting 35°C above roomtemp with the case closed, idle at desktop and light loads.... Lets not even talk about heavy load temps....
> 
> The case is poor in airflow (Metis) but that is unacceptable.
> 
> Open case still 25°C above room idle... Cooler was reseated plenty of times.... It wobbles a little over a glass table, so it's really convex...


10c drop by opening case is huge. In my cases with good airflow their temp goes up 5-10c when side is open.


----------



## Miptzi

The Metis is poorly designed, albeit beautiful and nice on the desk.... But that temp is still too high...


----------



## Dogzilla07

How is your metis set up ?, do you have the h7 cooler intake air from the opening at the back of the case and then exhaust into the power supply, or do you have it the other way around, with both PSU and CPU fan fighting for intake next to each other and exhaust at the back ?

If you haven't already try both orientations and see which does better. usually intake from back>exhaust to psu works better in this case, but it's not always the case.

Also another things that works well in the metis case is removing the stock gpu fans and plastic/metal shroud, and just having the 2 intake fans mounted on the case supplying the air to the bare GPU heatsink.


----------



## Miptzi

Dogzilla07 said:


> How is your metis set up ?, do you have the h7 cooler intake air from the opening at the back of the case and then exhaust into the power supply, or do you have it the other way around, with both PSU and CPU fan fighting for intake next to each other and exhaust at the back ?
> 
> If you haven't already try both orientations and see which does better. usually intake from back>exhaust to psu works better in this case, but it's not always the case.
> 
> Also another things that works well in the metis case is removing the stock gpu fans and plastic/metal shroud, and just having the 2 intake fans mounted on the case supplying the air to the bare GPU heatsink.


metis does not have "2 intake fans". Sure you looked the right case ?
just 1 exhaust on the rear and that's it.

My gpu is cold AF. Most of the time is in fanless mode. No problems there.
Anyway, I have a spare CR280 from Riotoro. Think I'm moving back to him , since the H7 can't handle the claustrophobic Metis..... pity


----------



## epic1337

Miptzi said:


> metis does not have "2 intake fans". Sure you looked the right case ?
> just 1 exhaust on the rear and that's it.
> 
> My gpu is cold AF. Most of the time is in fanless mode. No problems there.
> Anyway, I have a spare CR280 from Riotoro. Think I'm moving back to him , since the H7 can't handle the claustrophobic Metis..... pity


Metis should be used with rear as intake, then PSU as exhaust, like this.


----------



## doyll

What Dogzilla07 and epic1337 said. 

Try reversing rear vent fan so it is intake (use a good pressure rated fan so it can draw a good amount of air into case) and mount H7 or at least it's fan so it is drawing air from rear of case. Again, the case fan needs to be a high pressure fan.

You said H7 wobble when set on flat glass. The amount of convex in it's mounting surface will allow it to wobble a little. Keep in mind when you wobble it, you are tipping it from contact on one side to contact on other .. twice as much space as actual curved of convex base .. and it's also greatly exaggerated/increased because of distance from cooler base to top of cooler versus center of base to side of base. So a 0.25mm convex in 20mm (center of base to edge of base) when translated into the outer edges of H7's 126x145mm size is like 150mm from center of base .. which means what you feel/see as wobble is more than 7 times what it is on base. So if you have 0.5mm convex base you are seeing/feeling 3.5mm or even more when you rock the cooler on flat surface.


----------



## Dogzilla07

Miptzi said:


> metis does not have "2 intake fans". Sure you looked the right case ?
> just 1 exhaust on the rear and that's it.


My bad i was thinking of the metis plus, it can house an optional 120mm on the top, and the build i was pulling out of my memory actually had it modded so that the whole top was opened, sry.


----------



## epic1337

you can check out Raijintek's Styx if you want the same style but better airflow, it also supports MATX boards.


----------



## Miptzi

I'm going "the smaller the better" route, so, no bigger cases on the horizon...even my CR280 is too big for my taste, but a necessary evil. 

I have full loop cpu+gpu stuff on my garbage drawers.... Time to custom an Am4 ghetto bracket for the Xspc Rasa and drown my system on the Riotoro...


----------



## epic1337

hmmm, have you seen InWin's A1? thats much smaller than CR280 but bigger than Mentis.

Mentis = 14L
InWin A1 = 17L
CR280 = 22L


----------



## Miptzi

I'll keep the metis in storage with my H60, that got me awesome temps on the R5..... no need for another one. 
Desk space is pretty compact even with the CR280. Its taller and wider, but somewhat short in depth.

I'll tihnk about lapping the h7 in the near future though


----------



## ruffhi

What has happened with Cryorig US distribution. Limited stock at newegg and amazon and the only two listed US buying locations are OutletPC and Performance PC.


----------



## Gilles3000

ruffhi said:


> What has happened with Cryorig US distribution. Limited stock at newegg and amazon and the only two listed US buying locations are OutletPC and Performance PC.


I've read somewhere that they're affected by the "new" tariffs as well, so that's probably a big part of it.

They seem to be struggling a bit in general, the R5 still hasn't launched, heck they pretty much haven't released an actual new cooler since 2015...(aside from a silly m.2 heatsink)


----------



## SantasDeer

Nopileus said:


> I've been trying to get the bracket that holds the big mounting screws with the springs for my R1 Universal as the ones my cooler shipped with are still the smaller diameter design (that people kept overtightening and snapping) which won't fit the AM4 bracket they sell commercially.


I also have a R1 Universal here from 2016 or so, so it didn't come with an AM4 kit. I plan to get myself a new AM4 Ryzen 3000 system later this year.

Checked the Cryorig website to find out that they cancelled their AM4 mounting kit program in january 2019.

http://www.cryorig.com/news.php?id=85&page=1

I found the kit (SP-AM4AR) at a few vendors, but the cheapest wants 7.50€, others want 11€-13.50€.
Didn't expect something like this after getting myself a 70€ cpu cooler. In hindsight I should have gone with Noctua or be quiet instead.. :-/


Back to the point:
Can you elaborate what you mean with the diameter of the mounting screws? Is there even another hurdle to overcome when I want to use that cooler with a AM4 CPU?
And were you able to get the parts somehow? The Cryorig Facebook account did post something again, but the don't respond to messages from people. And all you read on the internet is that they don't answer support requests for weeks.

Looks like they started ambitious and fell deep.


P.S. I read that both the AMD heatspreader for Ryzen and the R1 Universal base plat are convex. How heavily does this affect the cooling performance?


----------



## Nopileus

SantasDeer said:


> I also have a R1 Universal here from 2016 or so, so it didn't come with an AM4 kit. I plan to get myself a new AM4 Ryzen 3000 system later this year.
> 
> Checked the Cryorig website to find out that they cancelled their AM4 mounting kit program in january 2019.
> 
> http://www.cryorig.com/news.php?id=85&page=1
> 
> I found the kit (SP-AM4AR) at a few vendors, but the cheapest wants 7.50€, others want 11€-13.50€.
> Didn't expect something like this after getting myself a 70€ cpu cooler. In hindsight I should have gone with Noctua or be quiet instead.. :-/
> 
> 
> Back to the point:
> Can you elaborate what you mean with the diameter of the mounting screws? Is there even another hurdle to overcome when I want to use that cooler with a AM4 CPU?
> And were you able to get the parts somehow? The Cryorig Facebook account did post something again, but the don't respond to messages from people. And all you read on the internet is that they don't answer support requests for weeks.
> 
> Looks like they started ambitious and fell deep.
> 
> 
> P.S. I read that both the AMD heatspreader for Ryzen and the R1 Universal base plat are convex. How heavily does this affect the cooling performance?


If you bought it in 2016 you are probably fine and the AM4 kit should work.

https://www.overclock.net/photopost/data/1270341/5/5c/5c3bc5a3__MG_0096.jpeg
If you have the bigger screws (left side) it will fit, if you have the smaller ones (right side) it will not.

I was never able to get an answer out of cryorig, their support staff doesn't seem to exist anymore so my R1 ended up getting shelved.


----------



## SantasDeer

Nopileus said:


> If you bought it in 2016 you are probably fine and the AM4 kit should work.
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/photopost/data/1270341/5/5c/5c3bc5a3__MG_0096.jpeg
> If you have the bigger screws (left side) it will fit, if you have the smaller ones (right side) it will not.
> 
> I was never able to get an answer out of cryorig, their support staff doesn't seem to exist anymore so my R1 ended up getting shelved.


Ah, thank goodness. By the look of it I would say I have the bigger screws. The injection nut on the Intel mounting bars / AMD plate has roughly 4mm inner and ~6mm outer diameter.


And it really is a shame how they dropped the ball. In the beginning it sounded like they were aiming high, entered the market to leave a mark. The whole thing with registering your product to get additional years of warranty sounded great. (In sum they offered the same timeframe as other big players like Noctua.)
I really wonder what happened. They have trouble getting their parts into the US, but that doesn't warrant this weak customer support in europe.


Initially I had the idea of asking them for blueprints of the fan clamps (I don't know how you call the silver things that hold your fan onto the cpu cooler.) so I could try to bend some for 140mm hole spacing. But I guess I don't even have to bother now.


----------



## Elrick

doyll said:


> A bit over the top, but Thermalright has several 153x141x26.5mm round-ish fans with 105mm mounting holes in use.*
> TY-143B (red/org) 600-1800rpm FDB PWM*
> ​Sadly most are only available on coolers.


This looks to be the one supplied in the latest HR-22 Model selling on Flebay, with that Graphene coating.

Currently using it mainly because there are no other 140mm PWM fans (in the house) using 120mm holes for mounting on this cooler.


----------



## doyll

Elrick said:


> This looks to be the one supplied in the latest HR-22 Model selling on Flebay, with that Graphene coating.
> 
> Currently using it mainly because there are no other 140mm PWM fans (in the house) using 120mm holes for mounting on this cooler.


 What are your thoughts about new TY-143B vs TY-143 fan? Does is idle lower than 600rpm? 

I like the 1800rpm max insted of 2500rpm. Hopefully it idles down lower than rated 600rpm. Original TY-140 was rated 900-1300rpm but idled at 550rpm, TY-143 spec is .. 400-1800rpm would be nice. My old TY-143s' idle at 550rpm which was inaudible at less than meter with case open.


----------



## Elrick

doyll said:


> What are your thoughts about new TY-143B vs TY-143 fan? Does is idle lower than 600rpm?
> 
> I like the 1800rpm max instead of 2500rpm. Hopefully it idles down lower than rated 600rpm.


Have no idea but it is indeed decently quiet compared to their 2500rpm monster series.

Also have the Arctic Bionix P120 located above the HR-22 heatsink. You can hear that working simply because it's somehow louder than the Thermalright's Fan model. Since I am using the latest AMD hardware with a 3800x cpu, the fans are pushed hard and then held back constantly, whilst running Windows Trojan 10 operating system.

There is no clicking sounds from either fan and they simply work at their highest rated speeds without any problems at all BUT getting them to stay IDLE, is no easy feat.

Suspect this new tech from AMD has a very long way to go with future firmware updates, before you can safely rely on a quiet system that functions 24/7.


----------



## doyll

Elrick said:


> Have no idea but it is indeed decently quiet compared to their 2500rpm monster series.
> 
> Also have the Arctic Bionix P120 located above the HR-22 heatsink. You can hear that working simply because it's somehow louder than the Thermalright's Fan model. Since I am using the latest AMD hardware with a 3800x cpu, the fans are pushed hard and then held back constantly, whilst running Windows Trojan 10 operating system.
> 
> There is no clicking sounds from either fan and they simply work at their highest rated speeds without any problems at all BUT getting them to stay IDLE, is no easy feat.
> 
> Suspect this new tech from AMD has a very long way to go with future firmware updates, before you can safely rely on a quiet system that functions 24/7.


 Thanks for the info. :thumb:
I never had any problems running TY-143 (550-2500rpm) on Silver Arrow, TRUE Spirit 140 Power and PH-TC14PE normally running from 550rpm idle up to about 1050-1200rpm. They never ran any faster with good case airflow. 

I did enjoy doing 'Shock & Awe' demonstrations by starting to run an encode (CPU at 95-100% load) with all fans turned off for about 3-4 minutes to build heat up to about 85c, then turn fans on. Case fans were also TY-143 so 5x TY-143 fans would jump from silent to full volume for about a minute, then start dropping speed for a couple minutes until they were back to 1050-1150rpm with CPU at 65-68c full load encoding. I wish I had made a graph of CPU load, fan speed, temperature and dB(A) to show how fast temps stabilized. Below is graph of CPU temp, CPU load and fan rpm graph of CPU going from idle to full load, and from full load back to idle showing it only takes a couple minutes at each end of encoding run for CPU temp to stablize from idle to full load and from full load back to idle. You can see it only takes a couple minutes.


----------



## bajer29

Thinking of switching CPU manufacturers/ sockets for my next build/ upgrade. I've misplaced my AM3+/ AM4 bracket and need a replacement. How do I go about finding one? Do I just email Cryorig support or is there a better option?


----------



## doyll

bajer29 said:


> Thinking of switching CPU manufacturers/ sockets for my next build/ upgrade. I've misplaced my AM3+/ AM4 bracket and need a replacement. How do I go about finding one? Do I just email Cryorig support or is there a better option?


I would contact Cryorig.


----------



## mAs81

Cryorig announced on Twitter the inclusion of fan clips with every C7 G !!

Don’t know yet if they’re sold separately,but it’s a start..I love my c7 to death and it cools my i5 4670 with no problems but in the future when I upgrade to something more powerful , being able to use a better/different fan is surely a welcome feature :thumb:



Spoiler



Source:
https://twitter.com/cryorig/status/1266263437069258752?s=21


----------



## doyll

Good news! Thanks for posting it. :thumb:
Will improve temps even with fan like stock fan because turning fan so it pulls air from cooler instead of pushing into cooler means cooler's heated exhaust moves way from cooler instead of coming out bottom turning out hitting RAM, GPU, etc turning up along side of cooler and fan where it is drawn right back into fan and down into cooler going in circles. When I tested some pancake coolers including C7 and AXP-100 fan pulling instead of pushing lowered temps by 5-7c with no other changes.


----------



## mAs81

Cryorig announced new R5 coolers and RGB fans 

Don't know if someone's already posted it elsewhere, site migration and all.. if so,I'm sorry

Saw it on twitter :

__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1303590399244603393
Fans page : CRYORIG | CRONA
Cooler page : CRYORIG | R5


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## Gilles3000

Finally, and that new mount looks quite interesting, wonder if it works as well as it looks.


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## mAs81

Gilles3000 said:


> Finally, and that new mount looks quite interesting, wonder if it works as well as it looks.


Hope so...
Don’t really dig the fans tho


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## Gilles3000

mAs81 said:


> Hope so...
> Don’t really dig the fans tho


Yeah, they just look like another RGB form over function fan. And fans have never been Cryorig's forte anyway, they range from just okay(XF140) to horrendously terrible(XT90).


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## ciarlatano

Gilles3000 said:


> Yeah, they just look like another RGB form over function fan. And fans have never been Cryorig's forte anyway, they range from just okay(XF140) to horrendously terrible(XT90).


Their 120mm was always the weak product in their line. The CRONA is supposedly an improvement in performance as well as being saddled with adding argeebee to address it - * * H7 Ultra & Crona 120 RGB new at Computex* *

Fun fact - prior to the Arctic P12, the QF120 was the "I use the QF120 so it's the best fan ever made!" choice of some notable trolls.


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## Elrick

ciarlatano said:


> Fun fact - prior to the Arctic P12, the QF120 was the "I use the QF120 so it's the best fan ever made!" choice of some notable trolls.


Sometimes being forced to use any P12 fan was not due to free will here but rather, what's left in the box when all my brood take ALL the Noctua's, Thermaltrights and BeQuiets.

Just glad they never liked any of the Arctic fans at all, due to being so cheap in cost (referring to their mentality of ONLY coveting, expensive fans)  .


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## Gilles3000

ciarlatano said:


> Fun fact - prior to the Arctic P12, the QF120 was the "I use the QF120 so it's the best fan ever made!" choice of some notable trolls.


At least things are improving I guess. The the Arctic P-fans, while not the be-all and end-all, are actually quite good, especially for how cheap they are. The QF120 is both worse and more expensive.


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## epic1337

Gilles3000 said:


> At least things are improving I guess. The the Arctic P-fans, while not the be-all and end-all, are actually quite good, especially for how cheap they are. The QF120 is both worse and more expensive.


i'm in an awkward situation where locally the QF120 is priced amongst the cheapest, with IDCooling and Deep Cool being the only ones cheaper.


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## Gilles3000

epic1337 said:


> i'm in an awkward situation where locally the QF120 is priced amongst the cheapest, with IDCooling and Deep Cool being the only ones cheaper.


Definitely not the case over in W-Europe nor the US.

Btw, weren't you in poland?


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## epic1337

Gilles3000 said:


> Definitely not the case over in W-Europe nor the US.
> 
> Btw, weren't you in poland?


no, philippines to be exact.


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## doyll

Can you get Thermalright fans there? Or Phanteks? Phanteks PH-F140MP & PH-F120MP are quite good if price is decent.


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## Gilles3000

epic1337 said:


> no, philippines to be exact.


Ah, my bad, must have had you confused with someone else. No idea of the pricing and availability over there.


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## epic1337

doyll said:


> Can you get Thermalright fans there? Or Phanteks? Phanteks PH-F140MP & PH-F120MP are quite good if price is decent.


sadly none of those, there are noctua and corsair fans though, but out of stock ever since the import restrictions this covid.
the noctua redux in particular is quite cheap, should've bought a few P12 redux when they were still available.


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