# NZXT Phantom 820 * Stretched Limo Edition * [ build log ]



## IT Diva

My thanks go to Socketus for compiling this picture listing, you rock dude
















It's as good an index as I could have done, better actually, as it comes from the perspective of someone wanting to glean information, as opposed to me trying to guess what's important to others.

FIRST PAIR OF 820s ARRIVE

CUSTOM 810 DOOR on 820 - 810 HD CAGE in 820

820s NEW and OLD HD CAGES COMPARE

HD BASE BRACKET - OLD vs NEW

PSU MODS

FINISHING AND TEST-FITTING THE MODDED PSU

HD CAGE SLIDERS

CABLE MGMT FACTORY GOOF

TOP TEARDOWN - HD CAGE ANALYSIS

TEARDOWN AND ANALYSIS OF THE BASE

FRONT PANEL AND PSU ANALYSIS

THE RAD TO BE USED AND PLAN

MODDING THE FRONT PANEL FOR PSU AND FANS

MODDING THE OPTICAL DRIVES CAGE

RE-CHECKING THE FRONT PANEL FILLER PLATE

CUTTING TOP & BOTTOM PANELS TO FIT 280 RAD LENGTH

A LOOK AT THE 560 SIZE CASE

THE MINI ITX PHANTOM 8.20

THE RADS

RADS IN CASE

MORE RADS IN CASE

3RD CASE ARRIVES

RADS IN ANALYSIS

RADS IN CASE WITH PSU

LOWER CHASSIS PANEL WITH RADS

THE WHITE CASE - TOP PANELS WITH RADS - CASE TOPS LINED UP

NEW PCBS FOR PWM & TACH SIGNAL CONTROLLERS

MOAR RADS AND FANS COME IN

MONITORING MODULES & FRONT PANEL

MINI LOOP TESTING WITH ACRYLIC TUBING SECTION

PUMPS CONNECTED TO 12V WITHOUT PWM

PUMPS CONNECTED TO 12v with PWM CONNECTED

400mm BITSPOWER RES WITH LIGHT TUBE

WATERJET RES WITH VID

FLIP WATER JET DIRECTION BACK TO FRONT

LAST CUSTOM ELECTRONICS CONTROL PCB DONE

ACRYLIC TUBING TEST - TOP & BOTTOM CHASSIS PANELS READY FOR THE TIG SHOP

BITSPOWER RESEVOIR; INTERNAL CCFL LIGHT-TUBE MOD - How To

WOO-HOO ! BACK FROM THE WELDING SHOP - THE VISION IS BECOMING CLEARER

STRETCHED CHASSIS MOCKUP WITHOUT THE PLASTIC TOP PANELS

TESTING THE RES MODS WITH AURORA, TARSIS RED . . . w/ VIDEOS

HOW TO DO MY LIGHT TUBE ADDITION MOD IN ANY BITSPOWER RES

HOW TO DO THE "JET TUBE" MOD

TOP PLASTIC PARTS FITTED TO TOP CHASSIS PANEL


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## k.3nny

Subbed!


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## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> Subbed!


Wecome aboard









Hopefully, I'll have a pair of P820's here by next weekend to tear apart and start my wheels a turnin'.

Darlene


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## chino1974

Definitely Subbing this one!!! Is this build being sponsored by NZXT Darlene? Sorry for being nosey. J/W? I know this will be an epic build as everything you've done so far has been insane.


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## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Definitely Subbing this one!!! Is this build being sponsored by NZXT Darlene? Sorry for being nosey. J/W? I know this will be an epic build as everything you've done so far has been insane.


As in getting everything for free, no.

A big wad of cash is coming from my pockets, but they are definately helping big time too. . . . a very cooperative relationship









I'm a firm believer in putting my money where my mouth is, and I believe in this build.

I do not think I've seen anything along this line done before, it's going to be as challenging as it is exciting.

BTW, Welcome aboard.

Darlene


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## chino1974

No Darlene be sponsored doesn't mean you get everything for free. At least it doesn't to me. I for sure didn't get everything for free. NXZT definitely does like helping modders out with their builds.







A lot of people get the misconception that a sponsored build means the person got all the parts for free from different companies. Most builds out there might have a few things given but you always end up paying somewhere down the line for parts. And the actual work and extra materials like paints andacrylic and so one also comes out of pocket.


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## socketus

Subbed, I know this is gonna be a _s-t-r-e-t-c-h_ of a thread


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## boogschd

*subbed


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## thepoopscooper

subbed!


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## secondthought

Subbed


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## Shiromar

Subbed!


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## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Subbed, I know this is gonna be a _s-t-r-e-t-c-h_ of a thread


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boogschd*
> 
> *subbed


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thepoopscooper*
> 
> subbed!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *secondthought*
> 
> Subbed


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiromar*
> 
> Subbed!


Welcome aboard, everyone.

Thanks for subbing on.

I'll try not to _s-t-r-e-t-c-h_ the build out too long, but with that much room, just imagine how many cubic feet of awesomeness and goodies can fit in there. . . . And since this is a scratch build, that's a lot to buy.

Anyway, I didn't sleep too well last night, and woke up early this morning, . . . . . wayyy too excited about the build, . . .

I kept getting visions . . . . . of a 560 on the bottom with 2 X 280's on top, dual loop setup with a 280 for the mobo & CPU, and the other 280 and 560 for quad GPU's.

Each loop had a dual 35X pump setup with a pair of FrozenQ 250mm res's for each loop.

Edit to add here: Pump choice changed to PWM D5's and 150mm bitspower clear water tanks.

There's going to be a lot of space between the mobo and the optical drive area, might as well put something exotic there to fill it in.

Hopefully once the cases get here, I can start to get my brain back down closer to earth . .

Shazaaaammmm . . . this is going to be an exciting build

Darlene


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## Tensiga

Subbed


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## evil jerry

I can't miss this I love your builds Darlene


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## IT Diva

Thanks guys, and welcome aboard.

Darlene


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## X-Nine

Looking forward to another 820 build in the mix.


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## Neskia

subbed


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## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome aboard, everyone.
> Thanks for subbing on.
> I'll try not to _s-t-r-e-t-c-h_ the build out too long, but with that much room, just imagine how many cubic feet of awesomeness and goodies can fit in there. . . . And since this is a scratch build, that's a lot to buy.
> Anyway, I didn't sleep too well last night, and woke up early this morning, . . . . . wayyy too excited about the build, . . .
> 
> 
> I kept getting visions . . . . . of a 560 on the bottom with 2 X 280's on top, dual loop setup with a 280 for the mobo & CPU, and the other 280 and 560 for quad GPU's.
> Each loop had a dual 35X pump setup with a pair of FrozenQ 250mm res's for each loop.
> There's going to be a lot of space between the mobo and the optical drive area, might as well put something exotic there to fill it in.
> Hopefully once the cases get here, I can start to get my brain back down closer to earth . .
> Shazaaaammmm . . . this is going to be an exciting build
> Darlene


_*Holy COw !!*_ thats a LoTTa E-PeeN !!!


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## DEcomputers

Subbed! Can't wait!


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## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> _*Holy COw !!*_ thats a LoTTa E-PeeN !!!


I'm not too sure E-PeeN is really applicable for women, maybe we have E-Boob instead, but you do have to imagine greater, if you ever want to accomplish great.

How close I can make the finished product match up with my initial vision, is how I'll measure my success.

Darlene


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## k.3nny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm not too sure E-PeeN is really applicable for women, maybe we have E-Boob instead, but you do have to imagine greater, if you ever want to accomplish great.
> How close I can make the finished product match up with my initial vision, is how I'll measure my success.
> Darlene


E-Boob > my success.

We got a winner!


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## Shadow_Foxx

in for this!


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## IT Diva

Welcome aboard to all those I haven't welcomed yet.

I just talked to Ryan at NZXT, and those guys rock!

My order is processed and should be shipping out with the 4pm (their time) shipments.
















On another note, I've been watching for a couple weeks now to see when FCPU got some more of the EK VGA Supreme HF bridge edition blocks in for my 3 Asus Matrix 7970's for the Switch build.

Talk about luck, I just checked again, and they had exactly 3 in stock, which are now headed my way. . . . yeeee haaaaaaa
(and no, I didn't forget the little copper shim pieces)

Edit to add: Looks like an Oooopps on their inventory management, just got an email, and it looks like 1 copper/plexi, 1 nickle/plexi and and 1 nickle/ acetal. If I understood the email correctly. Verifying now.

Yep, that's what's coming. Figured I'd take what I can get while there's still something to get.

Little at a time and the last little details of the switch build are coming nicely together, just in time for the 820 adventure to get under way.

Darlene


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## socketus

you're gonna WANT *MOAR VACASHUN* !! sweet







its getting started _KWIK_ !!


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## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> you're gonna WANT *MOAR VACASHUN* !! sweet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its getting started _KWIK_ !!


I actually have 2 more weeks scattered thru December, if work doesn't hijack them.

I'm counting on those little blocks of time to get the planning finalized and the cutting, fitting, prepping, welding and major fabbing done.

I just bought a new compressor and a couple new air tools in anticipation.

And now that I have enough air power, there's this little voice inside my head that keeps wispering "candy apple red . . . cand apple red . . ."

Darlene


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## Bonkers

Cant wait to see what you do with it!


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## modnoob

I'm in for the limo ride by that I mean I'm subbed


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## Caruban

Subbed. Please photoshoot the final case in a stretch limo.


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## IT Diva

Wooo Hooo,

Got my order confirmation email from the NZXT Armory store today, that's 1 little step closer than yesterday.

Darlene


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## k.3nny

Yes baby!







!


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## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caruban*
> 
> Subbed. Please photoshoot the final case in a stretch limo.


That would be pretty cool . . .

I'll have to see if there even is a stretch limo on the island . . . As best I can recall, there's only 2 or maybe 3 limos at most, and they were just regular length for a limo.

Darlene


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## mve1907

Needless to say: subbed!!


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## IT Diva

I figured that the best way to get ready for a new project is to tidy-up from the last project, so I got a pair of new carts to put the Switch build and it's external cooling module on over the weekend.

Since both are pretty heavy, I wanted to make up a framework to distribute the weight, and raise the shelf height since both are also longer than the shelves.

I dropped by the welding shop today to have my ace tig man, weld them up.

Here's a couple pics, just the bare frames, and then with the the systems in place:

Now the work area is all ready for the Phantom 820 - SLE

Darlene


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## chino1974

I am so jealous!! You have a grown ups version of disney land going on there!!


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## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I figured that the best way to get ready for a new project is to tidy-up from the last project, so I got a pair of new carts to put the Switch build and it's external cooling module on over the weekend.
> Since both are pretty heavy, I wanted to make up a framework to distribute the weight, and raise the shelf height since both are also longer than the shelves.
> I dropped by the welding shop today to have my ace tig man, weld them up.
> Here's a couple pics, just the bare frames, and then with the the systems in place:
> Now the work area is all ready for the Phantom 820 - SLE
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


*GREAT RACKS, DARLENE !!*









what are those ? IT racks ? I have a black a/v 3 shelf cart, but its nowhere the size of your two ....


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## d3vour3r

now this sounds interesting... subbed!


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## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> *GREAT RACKS, DARLENE !!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great racks are fine, . . But I still wish they were brains . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what are those ? IT racks ? I have a black a/v 3 shelf cart, but its nowhere the size of your two ....


I get these at the local hardware store, I have about 6 or 7 now, and they have proven to be tough, durable, strong, and they can carry a sizable weight without getting loose and tippy over time.

They work well for me, because I have a lot of machines, and I can roll one up to a desk of monitors to game or bench, and then swap out to use another machine with the same monitor bank.

It also makes working on them a lot easier as well.

Darlene


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## PCModderMike

Where's the goods? No infomercials in this log right?








Think I'll stick around to see how this goes.


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## LongShot79

Subbed for sure! Girls that can weld rock


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## Caruban

Speaking of welding, what's the best way to go about learning how to weld as an adult? Are there classes somewhere? I have no idea.


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## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Where's the goods? No infomercials in this log right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I'll stick around to see how this goes.


Hi Mike, Welcome aboard.

#1 . . . . In Transit, . . . I would assume . . . . . . .

MY CC's "available credit" had dropped significantly when I checked Tuesday, and I have an Order Confirmation email.

#2 . . . . No Infomercials here . . . . . .

I choose and buy products based on their track record of quality, suitability to the concept of the build, and my experiences with them. If one brand has some unique feature/characteristic over another brand that makes it more specifically suitable, I'll make that known.

If I add a video, it will be to show how I solved a logistical issue, or demonstrate how something works . . . . . . . . Think Gull Wing side panel like a gull wing door on a stretched limo.

Shipping things here can be an adventure, . . . Long story short, USPS priority Mail is the only practical way to ship anything here. . . . And with that goes the timeframe that you have to accept.

Realistically, if NZXT got everything picked up last Tuesday, I should have "the goods" in time for next weekend . . . . . But them there's Thanksgiving, and you know what holidays do to shipping schedules.

Darlene


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## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LongShot79*
> 
> Subbed for sure! Girls that can weld rock


I wish I could weld, competantly at least, I'm just a beginner at best.

That's why I take things I need welded to an expert. . . . I just get everything cut, fitted, prepped and clamped. . . Then Warren does his magic with the tig rig.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caruban*
> 
> Speaking of welding, what's the best way to go about learning how to weld as an adult? Are there classes somewhere? I have no idea.


That likely depends on where you live, and what kind of adult education is available.

It would also depend a lot on what your welding needs are, and what type of welding you want to learn. . . . . stick, . . . flux rod, . . . spool gun, . . . tig . . . ferrous / non ferrous

Some places have pretty good adult vocational training, but I guess a lot of them have been hit with budget cutting in recent years.

The good news, is that with advances in solid state devices, inverter type welding units have gotten cheaper and more reliable.

There are plenty of videos to use to get started, and then practice, practice, practice, and then practice some more.

I was actually thinking seriously about taking the plunge, and going with this one so I could have things tacked up and fitted before going to Warren's shop, and being able to handle the small things in-house:

http://www.eastwood.com/review/product/list/id/5572/

But then I got to adding up the total cost to get welding, and for about the same final cost, counting shipping, consumables, and argon tank rental etc. . . .

I can almost get all of the major pump related parts of my loops:

(So it's kind of a no-brainer if I want to get this build moving once I have things to work with)

3 of these:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11257/ex-pmp-103/Bitspower_Dual_D5_Mod_Top_Extreme_-_Acrylic_UV_Red_Version_BP-2D5TOPAC-UVRD.html

and 6 of these:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16935/ex-res-418/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_150_Inline_Reservoir_-_Clear_BP-WTZM150AC-CL.html?tl=g30c97s165

and 6 of these:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17549/ex-pmp-214/Swiftech_MCP655-PWM_12v_Water_Pump_Module_-_PWM_Enabled_Single_Version.html

and 6 of these:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16582/ex-pmp-200/Bitspower_D5_MCP655_Pump_Mod_Kit_-_Red_BP-D5MA-RD.html

Darlene


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## PCModderMike

Whoa







6 pumps? Are you just picking up extra or are they all for this build?


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## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Whoa
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6 pumps? Are you just picking up extra or are they all for this build?


The stretch, as it's currently anticipated, should give me an _additional_ 11" to 12" of space between the front edge of the motherboard, and the back of the optical drive bay cage.

That's a lot of room to make use of, and I want to make it count, both aesthetically, and in "awesomeness factor".

My current plan is to put 3 of the dual tops side by side at a 45 degree angle to the back of the case and mounted under a pice of 3/4" acrylic, so that all 6 pumps and res's are visible, appearing as 3 pairs. I'm looking at the 45 degree mounting format so that there's more "front to back" perspective, and to allow more room between them for piping runs.

It also puts all 3 pump pairs together as a single assembly, which makes mounting easier, and adds continuity to the aesthetics.

On top of the 3/4" piece of acrylic, I'll mount 6 of the resevoirs I linked to, in a 3 pairs configuration , centering each over the pump below it.

The res's have 4 mounting holes that line up with holes in the pump tops, so what I'll do is to drill thru the 3/4" piece, so that the res's mounting base sandwichs the 3/4" piece between it and the pump top.

Obviously, I'll need to drill passages from where the rear res mounts on the 3/4" piece to connect it up with the front res that sits directly over the inlet to the front pump, as the pump top can only be fed thru a single port.

I'll also need to spot face and add sealing o-rings where necessary, and relieve the underside of the 3/4" acrylic piece for the pump top's top mounted outlet plug, since I'll have to use the side outlet.

I'm looking at 3 pump pairs, because I'm planning a triple loop setup.

Again, it's still in the formative planning stage, but I'm working at getting an XT45 560 in the top and bottom, each to cool a pair of GPUs, and a XT45 420, or 280 stacked above the bottom one for the mobo / CPU loop.

I really do want to take this build where no build has gone belore









Darlene


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## Caruban

3/4" Acrylic is expensive... This build really is ridiculous just for the sake of being so...









What are you going to do with it when it's done?


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## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caruban*
> 
> 3/4" Acrylic is expensive... *This build really is ridiculous just for the sake of being so*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are you going to do with it when it's done?


I have a piece of 3/4" (actually there is no 3/4", it's .708") in my acrylic scraps box that's probably big enough for what I need, but a 12" by 12" or 12" by 24" piece wouldn't kill me to have to buy one if not.

This is OCN, what's your point, . . . . .









Actually, I don't see where this build is any more ridiculous than some of the big box CL / DD / MM builds with pedestals and top boxes and such. At least this isn't so top heavy or tipsy that it has to sit on the floor.

The best part to me is that I get to mold and shape my own creation that reflects my personal styling choices.

Enjoy it and plan the next project . . .

Darlene


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## hakz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Caruban*
> 
> 3/4" Acrylic is expensive... *This build really is ridiculous just for the sake of being so*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are you going to do with it when it's done?
> 
> 
> 
> I have a piece of 3/4" (actually there is no 3/4", it's .708") in my acrylic scraps box that's probably big enough for what I need, but a 12" by 12" or 12" by 24" piece wouldn't kill me to have to buy one if not.
> 
> This is OCN, what's your point, . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, I don't see where this build is any more ridiculous than some of the big box CL / DD / MM builds with pedestals and top boxes and such. At least this isn't so top heavy or tipsy that it has to sit on the floor.
> 
> *The best part to me is that I get to mold and shape my own creation that reflects my personal styling choices.*
> 
> Enjoy it and plan the next project . . .
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Precisely. Nothing beats that.







Subbed!


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## IT Diva

A little Thanksgiving update:

I was hoping my new Phantom 820's might be here by now, but it looks like I have to wait a bit longer.









I did get tracking numbers though, which while helpfull, also let me know that nothing had shipped untill this week, so late next week is the earliest arrival time I can hope for.

Well, at least I know they are on their way . . . .









And can be here in time for when I have a vacation week coming.

I was planning to use that time to measure twice, cut once, and be able to get to the machine shop to have the welding done.

Of course the problem with having to wait, is:

1 - that another paycheck comes along, opening up possibilities of yet additional madness, and

2 - that my imagination and overkill gene start pumping steroids like a sports celebrity, and the result can be . . . . . . mmmmm, . . . exotic . . . errrr, better make that . . . almost scarey

I'm wondering at the moment, just how much stretch is, at least sort of realistically, possible . . . .

My original plan was to use 2 cases to get an additional 280 mm of length to allow using 560's in place of 280's;

Front lower portion of one case cut just behind the rad mounting, for the front portion . . .

Rear lower portion of a second case cut just in front of the rad mounting for the rear portion . . . . . .

and adding then together, . . . .

With a similar approach taken with the top panel, cutting the rear portion right in front of the 280 rad mount, and the front portion right behind the 280 mount.

That way the mobo tray stays properly positioned.

The more I thought about it, the more I wondered if I took just the 280 mm rad mount portion, from both the top and bottom, of a third case, and put it between the original plan's front and rear 280 sections, then I could have on board 840's on top and bottom.

I got to looking at these stainless steel and copper beauties, and as they are modular and that two 420's can join end to end into an 840, my overheated imagination has gone into overdrive:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15679/ex-rad-385/Aquacomputer_Airplex_Modularity_System_420_Radiator_-_Copper_Fins_-_Dual_Circuit_33042.html?tl=g30c95s931

The connecting block:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14282/ex-rad-309/Aquacomputer_Airplex_Modularity_System_Serial_Connector_Adapter_-_Acetal_33502.html?tl=g30c95s1554#blank

The dual circuit feature allows the rad to be split 30 / 70 between 2 seperate loops, or combined.

Dual circuit on the bottom with the room for push-pull fans would put the mobo/cpu on the 30% circuit, and 2 of the gpus on the 70% circuit.

Combined, or single circuit on the top, where there's only room for one set of fans, would handle the second pair of gpus.

The real trick is going to be handling the top plastic parts' stretch so it looks like a stretched version of the original.

Somebody quick, . . . . talk me out of, . . . or into , this insanity . . . where's the Xanax when you need it























Darlene


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## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> A little Thanksgiving update:
> I was hoping my new Phantom 820's might be here by now, but it looks like I have to wait a bit longer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get tracking numbers though, which while helpfull, also let me know that nothing had shipped untill this week, so late next week is the earliest arrival time I can hope for.
> Well, at least I know they are on their way . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And can be here in time for when I have a vacation week coming.
> I was planning to use that time to measure twice, cut once, and be able to get to the machine shop to have the welding done.
> Of course the problem with having to wait, is:
> 1 - that another paycheck comes along, opening up possibilities of yet additional madness, and
> 2 - that my imagination and overkill gene start pumping steroids like a sports celebrity, and the result can be . . . . . . mmmmm, . . . exotic . . . errrr, better make that . . . almost scarey
> I'm wondering at the moment, just how much stretch is, at least sort of realistically, possible . . . .
> My original plan was to use 2 cases to get an additional 280 mm of length to allow using 560's in place of 280's;
> Front lower portion of one case cut just behind the rad mounting, for the front portion . . .
> Rear lower portion of a second case cut just in front of the rad mounting for the rear portion . . . . . .
> and adding then together, . . . .
> With a similar approach taken with the top panel, cutting the rear portion right in front of the 280 rad mount, and the front portion right behind the 280 mount.
> That way the mobo tray stays properly positioned.
> The more I thought about it, the more I wondered if I took just the 280 mm rad mount portion, from both the top and bottom, of a third case, and put it between the original plan's front and rear 280 sections, then I could have on board 840's on top and bottom.
> I got to looking at these stainless steel and copper beauties, and as they are modular and that two 420's can join end to end into an 840, my overheated imagination has gone into overdrive:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15679/ex-rad-385/Aquacomputer_Airplex_Modularity_System_420_Radiator_-_Copper_Fins_-_Dual_Circuit_33042.html?tl=g30c95s931
> The connecting block:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14282/ex-rad-309/Aquacomputer_Airplex_Modularity_System_Serial_Connector_Adapter_-_Acetal_33502.html?tl=g30c95s1554#blank
> The dual circuit feature allows the rad to be split 30 / 70 between 2 seperate loops, or combined.
> Dual circuit on the bottom with the room for push-pull fans would put the mobo/cpu on the 30% circuit, and 2 of the gpus on the 70% circuit.
> Combined, or single circuit on the top, where there's only room for one set of fans, would handle the second pair of gpus.
> The real trick is going to be handling the top plastic parts' stretch so it looks like a stretched version of the original.
> Somebody quick, . . . . talk me out of, . . . or into , this insanity . . . where's the Xanax when you need it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Woah that's probably gonna be the most epic WC rad setup I've ever heard of. By all means please DO IT!!!!!









Just stumbled upon this thread looking for a 820 club as I'm getting mines next week god willing for my 1st WC build







....I'm really looking fwd to seeing how this works out with the joining of the chassis'. Good luck


----------



## Nemesis158

Subbed. Sounds like a killer mod and i love NZXT


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triniboi82*
> 
> Woah that's probably gonna be the most epic WC rad setup I've ever heard of. By all means please DO IT!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just stumbled upon this thread looking for a 820 club as I'm getting mines next week god willing for my 1st WC build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....I'm really looking fwd to seeing how this works out with the joining of the chassis'. Good luck


The 820 club is here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1319549/official-nzxt-phantom-820-case-club
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nemesis158*
> 
> Subbed. Sounds like a killer mod and i love NZXT


Welcome aboard guys









I'll be checking with the NZXT team either Friday, or first of next week about getting another pair of 820's, another white one, and a gunmetal one.

I have another build plan that swaps the white plastics and drive cage(s) and maybe the side panels, of a white one into a gunmetal case. This would be something that if it looks really nice, might motivate NZXT to offer some level of custom ordering along those lines.

Add in some of the white painted rads, maybe a white NZXT PSU, and I think it would look clean and sharp.

That would also then give me the third set of top and bottom panel rad mounts to be able to examine the feasability of doing the monster stretch for 840 rads.

Darlene


----------



## socketus

*840 ?!?!?!*

I know you're in the Islands, but I'm wonderin if mebbe sumting green&leafy has seeped into the air you breathe









All that will be found is a house with a bunch of Switch & Phantom panels sticking thru the windows









_Taxiing to the takeoff strip, the_ *Darlene Franken820 Dual Switch Two Tone* - I'm not just a computer anymore! - _is revving up its dozen-24-sets of shrouded fannerie_ ....

*ADD*: I had to use the calculator to even figure out what the multiple is of 840 !!
Funny how you knew about that Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity System Serial Connector Adapter - in Acetal !!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> *840 ?!?!?!*
> I know you're in the Islands, but I'm wonderin if mebbe sumting green&leafy has seeped into the air you breathe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that will be found is a house with a bunch of Switch & Phantom panels sticking thru the windows
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _Taxiing to the takeoff strip, the_ *Darlene Franken820 Dual Switch Two Tone* - I'm not just a computer anymore! - _is revving up its dozen-24-sets of shrouded fannerie_ ....
> *ADD*: I had to use the calculator to even figure out what the multiple is of 840 !!
> Funny how you knew about that Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity System Serial Connector Adapter - in Acetal !!


Nahhhh, . . .No green leafy stuff for me, I'm far enough removed from reality as it is.

The new phantom is kinda designed around 280's for the 140 fan sized rads, both up top and on the bottom, that's what lends it to stretching it in 280 increments. . . .

And it so nicely turns out that 840 is three 280 increments, but also works out to be two 420 increments, and those pretty stainlees & copper fin rads come in 420's that can be joined.

Not that there might not be some, but I don't recall seeing any of those rads in builds, so being able to use something not so commonplace is also a plus.

Plan is to use white LED fans with clear frames to accent the real colors for both rads and rear case fans:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14875/fan-953/Aerocool_Shark_White_Edition_140mm_x_25mm_High_Air_Pressure_Fan_w_White_LEDs.html?tl=g36c331s877#blank

And a full length clear acrylic PSU cover to show it off, which I think will look classy.

Darlene

Keep in mind, that the case will be painted in a candy apple red.


----------



## hakz

CANDY-APPLE-RED?

That's quite unusual for a Limo, ain't it?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hakz*
> 
> CANDY-APPLE-RED?
> That's quite unusual for a Limo, ain't it?


Maybe,

But right at the start of the build log, I mention that my love affair with NZXT cases started with a shiny red Phantom, when they first came out, and that this build was my way of paying a sort of tribute to the bold and innovative styling that was ushered in from there.

Candy apple red would seem to fit this build perfectly to me . . . .

Darlene


----------



## Caruban

Here's a few thoughts on the ridiculous setup.
Yes, it's crazy, its awesome, and it will allow for your system to do all sorts of crazy stuff due to the cooling potential.

To make the case THAT long starts to become hugely impractical. 840mm is about a yard long (slightly shorter, but your case is going to be longer than the rads by definition). I know you're going for the longer than tall look of the original Phantom, but this may start looking disproportional in the opposite direction. To fix this would require scaling in every dimension, including thickness, which might be difficult to do. But once you account for that and have all of that extra space (I'm anticipating this being the size of a large dog), your interior is going to start looking like you mounted a motherboard in a closet. Moving it is going to be a horrendous pain, and unless you plan on adding a skeleton, it probably won't be very structurally sound. All of these problems get worse once you add liquid cooling. With all that space, there's no reason not to add a giant reservoir, but once that's filled, the case will become VERY heavy.

Just some thoughts. It would be very cool, and I understand that sometimes people want to do things just for the sake of doing them. I do that too. (That's basically why I do anything, nowadays...







)

Those fans look very nice. Good choice.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caruban*
> 
> Here's a few thoughts on the ridiculous setup.
> Yes, it's crazy, its awesome, and it will allow for your system to do all sorts of crazy stuff due to the cooling potential.
> _To make the case THAT long starts to become hugely impractical._ 840mm is about a yard long (slightly shorter, but your case is going to be longer than the rads by definition). I know you're going for the longer than tall look of the original Phantom, but this may start looking disproportional in the opposite direction. To fix this would require scaling in every dimension, including thickness, which might be difficult to do. But once you account for that and have all of that extra space (I'm anticipating this being the size of a large dog), your interior is going to start looking like you mounted a motherboard in a closet. _Moving it is going to be a horrendous pain, and unless you plan on adding a skeleton, it probably won't be very structurally sound_. All of these problems get worse once you add liquid cooling. _With all that space, there's no reason not to add a giant reservoir, but once that's filled, the case will become VERY heavy_.
> Just some thoughts. It would be very cool, and I understand that sometimes people want to do things just for the sake of doing them. I do that too. (That's basically why I do anything, nowadays...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Those fans look very nice. Good choice.


I'll be the first to admit, it'll have to miss the LAN parties.

If it's feasable to stretch it enough to use 840's, using sections from 3 cases, it'll be just shy of 4' long, or about twice the length of an original phantom.

A few things to keep in mind concerning structural soundness,

There are normally unused internal cavities that run from front to rear, right below the doors' sills, (and above them in the top panel) where box tubing can be used to add considerable strength and rigidity. . . . See edit below

Add to that, the use of gussets at the join seams.

Rads add a lot of rigidity as well, to the otherwise somewhat flimsy, formed sheet metal panels that they mount on, much like large rectangular thin wall box tubing would

Additionally, the double length mobo tray will help to tie everything together and reduce flex. . . . and it could be strategically reinforced if needed.

Overall, I just don't see any issues from a structural / rigidity perspective that aren't easily enough addressable.

If each of the three loops took 2 litres, a rather high estimation, that's still just a bit over 11 pounds, not that much at all really.

When you look at how much they stretch out some of these exotic limo creations, and they don't get any taller or wider, I'm real good with just stretching the length and keeping the height and width unchanged.

Darlene

Edit to add:

Found some excellent 4130alloy, aircraft grade, 3/8" X 3/8" X 6' box tubing at McMaster P/N 6582K11


----------



## Caruban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'll be the first to admit, it'll have to miss the LAN parties.
> If it's feasable to stretch it enough to use 840's, using sections from 3 cases, it'll be just shy of 4' long, or about twice the length of an original phantom.
> A few things to keep in mind concerning structural soundness,
> There are normally unused internal cavities that run from front to rear, right below the doors' sills, (and above them in the top panel) where box tubing can be used to add considerable strength and rigidity.
> Add to that, the use of gussets at the join seams.
> Rads add a lot of rigidity as well, to the otherwise somewhat flimsy, formed sheet metal panels that they mount on
> Additionally, the double length mobo tray will help to tie everything together and reduce flex. . . . and it could be strategically reinforced if needed.
> Overall, I just don't see any issues from a structural / rigidity perspective that aren't easily enough addressable.
> If each of the three loops took 2 litres, a rather high estimation, that's still just a bit over 11 pounds, not that much at all really.
> When you look at how much they stretch out some of these exotic limo creations, and they don't get any taller or wider, I'm real good with just stretching the length and keeping the height and width unchanged.
> Darlene


I have no doubt you know what you're doing. Just thinking out loud.







I personally wouldn't rely on radiators for structure, but that's because I don't know much about radiators.

My loop takes about a liter and a half. Maybe I'm doing something wrong.

I really look forward to seeing how it turns out.

Is the plan to make the long sides look like a limo too? with tinted windows, segmented with those strangely classy chrome embellishments?

I'm surprised this thread doesn't have a picture of a limo in it yet...
Would also be cool if you could use a car door handle as the latch for the sides.
Perhaps I should stop thinking out loud now...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caruban*
> 
> I have no doubt you know what you're doing. Just thinking out loud.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I personally wouldn't rely on radiators for structure, but that's because I don't know much about radiators.
> My loop takes about a liter and a half. Maybe I'm doing something wrong.
> I really look forward to seeing how it turns out.
> Is the plan to make the long sides look like a limo too? with tinted windows, segmented with those strangely classy chrome embellishments?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm surprised this thread doesn't have a picture of a limo in it yet...
> Would also be cool if you could use a car door handle as the latch for the sides.
> Perhaps I should stop thinking out loud now...


Thinking out loud is good, helps me to be sure I haven't overlooked something,









I alluded to the main side door back in post 42.

The limo tie in, besides its stretched length, will be its gullwing design.

It will be acrylic, with a few inches of the original sheet metal styled in at the front and back so it looks right where it laps the front and rear end panels.

Whether it's all 1 piece, or divided front and rear into 2 pieces, will depend on how it initially tests.

If all I can stretch is 280mm, then a 1 piece side isn't a problem, if I can get 560 mm of stretch, then I'm not so sure 1 piece will still work well, since its limited to 1/4" thickness to stay within the original side panel edge depth.

I ordered 4 hinge sets from McMaster, so I'm covered either way.

I also tracked down the perfect sized cylindrical linear actuators for power.

http://progressiveautomations.com/mini-tube-linear-actuator-d30-c-128.html?osCsid=7550432fba76780fc6968cb3abb81e41

I'd like to get another 30 degrees or so of opening, from the one pictured below:

Darlene



I'm going to put it on the long shelf on the right, with the monitors going to portrait mode, so it will be well supported.



The gullwing limo image comes from here: http://www.hummers4hire.com/gullwing_limo.html


----------



## Caruban

That setup...


----------



## KillThePancake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caruban*
> 
> That setup...


That was my first thought too. 4 subs, 4 monitors, geez. If I had that, I'd think I had died and gone to heaven!


----------



## IT Diva

Well, I had to move the newer stuff out to where I had more room . . .









Here's the back room setup which is about maxed out;



Not all the subs are visible in this pic, but the setup along that back wall can really punish the neighborhood when cranked up a bit.



Darlene


----------



## Caruban

Forgive me for asking, but is there more than one person with regular access to all of that equipment?!?

I guess a better question would be, what is all of that used for?


----------



## IT Diva

No, it's just me.

Maybe some day I'll be on "Hoarders" for hoarding computers, but some have programs that register / license to that computer that would be more costly to have to transfer than just keeping the computer.

Others it's sound cards and sound systems that sound really nice and I don't want to mess with.

That one workstation with the laptop was for my housemate, when she was here, but she went back to the states a couple years back when her job here was done.

I've since moved that desk to the other bedroom and retired that computer and replaced it with an overclocked E8600 in an HTPC case.

Been so long since I've used it, the anti virus is no doubt expired two times over, lol.

Darlene


----------



## Caruban

Fair enough. I try to stay away from programs like that.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Subbing

Subbed


----------



## phillyd

So I cannot wait to see the work you put into this. I've loved all your mods so far!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Subbing
> Subbed


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> So I cannot wait to see the work you put into this. I've loved all your mods so far!


Welcome to my insanity guys,























I'm assuming you've been thru the first few pages, so to update a bit:

Tracking number shows one 820 as having passed thru Puerto Rico, so it should be here Monday, Tuesday at the latest.
Tracking for the second one, just shows electronic shipping info received . .
Tracking on the PSUs doesn't show anything past California yet . . .

You gotta love the USPS tracking though, cuz sometimes it shows nothin' for a week, and the next thing you know, it's waiting to be picked up.

At least this week I'll have something in hand to tear apart to begin the epic journey.

I'll also get the next pair of 820's on their way. . . . another white one for this build so I have a third 280 sized rad mounting top and bottom panel donor, and a gunmetal one which will get the white one's trim pieces, side panels, and drive cage for another "mix & match" build.

Welcome aboard everyone, let's get some sparks to flyin'









Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Been doing some more research on the Airplex Modularity System rads.

Thought I'd pass it on . . .

It looks like they are considerably more restrictive than the general variety of flat tube rads we're used to.

That translates to their needing more pump power than we usually need, in order to get the higher flow rates they need to maintain turbulent flow in the tubes for best efficiency, which . . . .

Makes it a good thing that I planned for 3 loops, each with the dual D5 Bitspower tops and Two D5, PWM pumps.

Looks like I'm going to need it









On another note with the AMS rads, while they can be joined end to end, i.e. to turn two 420's into an 840, you do loose the fan spacing continuity at the connecting piece, so that means that three 280 mm sections joined end to end, will still need to be cut in the middle and a short (~1") extension spliced in. . . . . . Not a big deal, but something that has to be anticipated. . . .

Another interesting bit is that the cores are the same for both the 120 sized fan models and the 140 sized fan models. The only difference is the side rails.

Here's a pic that shows a single 140 joined to a dual 120, so you can see how they set it up to be so modular.



It's going to get exciting here soon,

Darlene


----------



## Buzzkill

Frozen Cpu has Aquacomputer 840 Dual and Single Circuit Radiators. You could use these instead of joining to 420's.

Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity System 840 Radiator - Aluminum Fins - Dual Circuit (33032)

Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity System 840 Radiator - Aluminum Fins - Single Circuit (33031)



Subbing


----------



## Lord Xeb

Hmm... Should be interesting


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzzkill*
> 
> Frozen Cpu has Aquacomputer 840 Dual and Single Circuit Radiators. You could use these instead of joining to 420's.
> Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity System 840 Radiator - Aluminum Fins - Dual Circuit (33032)
> Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity System 840 Radiator - Aluminum Fins - Single Circuit (33031)
> 
> Subbing


True, but the 840's are Not available in the copper fin version, while the 420's are.

Hence that choice.

The aluminum is not going to do well in the local climate here at all, it's not as efficient, and it's wicked fugly to boot!

I used the MORA 18 X 140 rad with aluminum fins in my external cooling module build, and let's just say I was having a senior moment.

I let expedience overrule sound judgement on that one.

For what I spend on a build, not spending whatever it takes to get the best I can, either from a quality or aesthetic perspective, just diminishes the build overall.

Now if only I could get the 840 in copper!!!

Darlene


----------



## Sqrldg

Subbed, good work!

Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Tapatalk 2


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'll also get the next pair of 820's on their way. . . . another white one for this build so I have a third 280 sized rad mounting top and bottom panel donor, and a gunmetal one which will get the white one's trim pieces, side panels, and drive cage for another "mix & match" build.
> Darlene


Ok, so the fumes are finally reaching my antenna tower ... ! You're talking about 2 builds... right ? double the madness ? Ohh, my head, its aching, like it used to after too many spliffs and shots


----------



## phillyd

Three 820's?!? That's like. $750


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Three 820's?!? That's like. $750


Some people have more money available, for the things we love









I am not one of them


----------



## IT Diva

Some people have Rolex watches, . .

I'm not one of them

Some people have kids, grandchildren, and spouses

I'm not one of them

Some people have expensive / new cars

I'm not one of them

Some people have nice homes

I'm not one of them

Some people have been introverted, socially disadvantaged geeks all their lives

Bingo, . . _I am one of them_.

Pretty much, I live to create and build things.

It's the one talent I seem to have that simultaneously satiates my creative desires and stimulates and satisfies my quest for new knowledge and understanding.

I've always been willing to give up things in some areas, to be able to persue quests in others.

Philly, maybe you can get PPS to give me some great deals, I'll be needing a lot of stuff . . .









Darlene


----------



## sockpirate

8 pages and no pics?! Regardless i am subbed.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate*
> 
> 8 pages and no pics?! Regardless i am subbed.


Sorry about that . . .

I'm waiting too.

Sometimes stuff just takes longer to get shipped, and then arrive, than we would like . .

Perhaps I started the log a bit prematurely, but I was just too excited once I committed to the first pair of new P820's to not share my excitement.

But that doesn't mean that I haven't been planning and researching, in the mean time, keeping you all filled in.

And as you're all here in the workshop with me, exchanging ideas, and getting a feel for my vision of the build, it has not been time lost.

Welcome aboard,

Darlene


----------



## phillyd

Me neither! But looking at IT Diva's many computers, mods, monitors and peripherals, it is apparent she does.e


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Ok, so the fumes are finally reaching my antenna tower ... ! You're talking about 2 builds... right ? double the madness ? Ohh, my head, its aching, like it used to after too many spliffs and shots


Probably not double the madness, lol . . . the second one is pretty pedestrian compared to the stretch build.

To tie them together,

I had a nice idea for a pair of builds about a month ago, http://www.overclock.net/t/1319549/official-nzxt-phantom-820-case-club/17#post_18486081

I was still working on the stretch build idea at that time.

The 820 didn't seem to be creating a lot of following. Guys got really spoiled by the bang for the buck that the 810 offered, even if it was really plain looking.

I thought the 820 deserved a better reception, and I thought that dressing it up a bit with some factory available options, could make it more popular, if it could be done at minimal cost to NZXT, and guys could order online with the custom parts in place right out of the box. (or at least close to it)

I was looking at a pair of P820's, one white and one gunmetal and mixing the trim plastics and sides and so on, to get a perkier looking semi custom that might appeal to guys wanting to step up to something less plain and boxxy than the 810.

The flipside to that idea, was that I don't really need any more "normal" computers around here.

TBH, the only things that truely interest me at this point are things of an epic scale or that near as I can tell, have not been done yet. (or at least much like I'd like to see them done)

A pair of "Mix 'n Match" builds didn't fit that criteria too well.

Ultimately, I went for the stretched build plan that I had by then fleshed out to a reasonable point, using 2 cases to get 560 rad capability, and ordered 2 white P820's.

Well, the stretch plan has grown and matured considerably more, and if 560 capability is possible, how about one step beyond to 840, which has several nice benefits.

Among them:
Being able to use pairs of the copper finned AMS rads, having enough internal rad space for quad overclocked GPU cooling is another, and the third, which I haven't touched on yet, is having enough PSU space for the kind of PSU power you need for hi-end quad GPU set ups.

At the point of needing a third P820 to see if 840 capability is possible, I figured I might as well get another one in Gunmetal at the same time, and see if the "mix 'n match" plan I had originally thought of would look as nice as I had thought.

Method to the madness here, is . . .

It also helps to have one case that's not disassembled or cut up when you're working on 2 or 3 that are.

So yes there are two builds planned, the 'Mix 'n Match" build will get it's own log, once the next P820's get here, as I think it's going to appeal to a different group of forum members.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

We Have Stuff . . . .
















Kudos to the NZXT guys for going above and beyond to ship here, and the USPS guys for treating it kindly the whole way.

And you gotta love the McMaster folks who told me about $25 for shippping when I placed the order, that turns out triple that on the invoice









But at least I have plenty of clear PETG tubing.

It's like acrylic tubing, but has tighter dimensional tolerances, and forms better at a little lower temp.

Is it the weekend yet!









OOOhhhhh, And I just got the next pair on the way, another white one and a gunmetal one.

Darlene



Just getting these biggin's out of the boxes made my 810 seem like a SFF / HTPC


----------



## ginger_nuts

Let the fun begin


----------



## AlderonnX

I'm drooling... those look awesome.


----------



## phillyd

Now things get interesting! I estimate 3-5 days before she blows our minds.


----------



## xNovax

Can't wait to see the finished product.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Now things get interesting! I estimate 3-5 days before she blows our minds.


I need a bit more time than that









I get to work this morning, and have a resignation with 1 week notice, and someone out on fmla leave a month ahead of plan.

Looks like my vacation time gets put on hold for a while . . .again.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Well,

I just couldn't leave well enough alone, even for one night . .

About 5 or 10 minutes with a drill and the big ugly HDD cage comes out . . Rivetted, . . . shoulda been screws

and a drilled out rivet is a nastier carpet mine than a lego, I just found out.

With a bit of mix 'n match, a smaller, more compact 810 drive cage goes in its place.

Would be really nice, if it had been made to accept the smaller 2 drive lower cage in place of the big one right under the optical drive bay cage as an option.

But it doesn't.

Anyway,

I'll be using SSD's, but the secondary PSU will use the HDD cage mounting rails to mount up under the optical drive cage, so it's nice to see that the ones from the 810 fit right on.

Darlene


----------



## phillyd

do the two Switch 810 cages line up with one 820 cage?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> do the two Switch 810 cages line up with one 820 cage?


Not quite sure I understand what you're asking,

Here's the stock 820, next to the 820 with an 810 3 drive cage

Darlene


----------



## phillyd

like could you swap the 820 and 810 cages?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> like could you swap the 820 and 810 cages?


Not without some work.

The top 820 cage that has 4 drive spaces, is rivetted to the case with 6 rivets, and has slide tabs that lock into the underside of the optical drive cage sheetmetal.

I'm not sure if it will rivet, or screw, into an 810 case,

The lower 820 drive cage has spaces for 2 drives, and slides in between the top cage and the metal bracket underneath it.

It just slides, it doesn't interlock like the 810 does.

They changed the plastic tracks.

The 810 has ones that interlock and you can install the upper drive cage under the optical drive and be able to slide it out (there is 1 screw from the rear iirc.

You could easily put 810 cages, top and bottom, if you wanted into an 820, as long as you had all the original 810 sliders.

Putting an 820 set into an 810, would be a lot more work.

Here's a couple pics of the lower brackets, 810 on the left, new 820 on the right.

While the metal shape is a bit different, 820 is wider, the length and screw spacings are the same and the 810 bracket fits in the 820.

The 820 slider will not fit on the 810 bracket, or the 810 slider on the 820 bracket though, as the lock tabls that hold the slider to the bracket are different. 3 rows on the 820, and 2 rows of slightly larger ones on the 810.

Darlene


----------



## k.3nny

YES YES YES!

IT has begun!

looking forward to this one







!!!


----------



## mandrix

Finally caught up with your build log. I didn't realize the posting had become so huge already.
Anyway, I'm in for the win.









Just wanted to add, RE your comments about lifestyle.
That's pretty much where I am in life. I've had the new cars, and this and that but I'm retired now and disabled with very limited income. My wife and I don't really care about having all the bling, and we both have our hobbies, even if not a lot of money to spend.

I choose to spend money, when I have it, on my computers, and that often means sacrificing, or waiting on money to come in that is NOT in the form of a weekly paycheck. But I'm happy to do so as I get so much enjoyment from it.
Fortunately I'm at the age, or maybe state of mind, where having the latest greatest everything means little to me, and doing things I truly enjoy brings more satisfaction.

Sometimes, just once in a while, I wish I had chosen a cheaper hobby. But it is what it is, as they say.

Finding OC net and all the awesome people and builds here has been a real inspiration for me. But mostly the people.


----------



## phillyd

Thanks IT Diva! Couldn't get a clear answer elsewhere
+1


----------



## Erebusism

Subscribed and all that









This thread brought me into OCN, and looks like it'll be something amazing







Can't wait. I hope to get a 820 for my build, but I'm not skilled enough to mod anything XD


----------



## jassilamba

Popcorn - Check
Beer - Check
Subbed - Check
Sitting back and biting nails - check
No lengthy useless reviews - check
Tissues to wipe the drool - check


----------



## IT Diva

And after what's been a brutal week at work,









I'm sooo looking forward to physically working on something I enjoy.

Labor of Love is quite theraputic,







well that and some Chivas on the rocks









Darlene


----------



## InsideJob

This is gunna be nuts








Sub'd


----------



## JollyMan

Sub'd. Cant wait to see this in progress!


----------



## IT Diva

A Little Start of the Weekend Update:

A plan for how much power to have available, and how to manage that is always one of the early things to have figured out on a new build.

It isn't usually a big deal, unless of course, you're planning quad OC'd GPU's, multiple pumps, half a bazillion fans for mega rads and plenty of OC on the CPU.

OC'd 7970's are pulling over 300W a piece, nearly 200W for an OC'd 3930K, 100W for 20 rad fans, 150W to 200W for 6 D5's, it can add up quick.

The biggest PSU seems to be the Lepa 1600W, which is made by Enermax and to its credit has received very good reviews. I was thinking about using it which is why I read the reviews.

The downside is that while it's a powerhouse, I'm still pretty old school and prefer single rail.

I'd also like to have more power capability, so that if I need 1600W, I can get it while not running the PSU at 100%.

To that end, I opted for a multi PSU setup.

The Main PSU will be located in the usual PSU location of the new 820, same place as it is in the switch 810 and the phantom.

The secondary PSU is going to mount under the optical drive cage in place of the HDD cage, using the mounting sliders from an 810, so that it can slide in and out.

The main PSU will run the Mobo, one GPU, WC pumps and rad fans, and case lighting.

The secondary PSU will run the other 3 GPU's.

Now it becomes clear why I got 2 of the NZXT Hale 90, 1000W PSU's.

To get the secondary PSU set up, it needs to turn on when the primary turns on, and since it's for GPU's only, it doesn't need all the cables that NZXT doesn't normally modularize.

So I hacked 'em off . . . or carefully removed them, depending on one's perspective.

Once I had the PSU open, I wasn't comfortable with running 3 GPU's off the rear modular connectors, as the wiring to them and the PCB itself, just didn't look like that was a good idea.

As an alternative, I took 2 of the 8 pin extensions that come with NZXT cases and cut the male end off, since the female end is identical to the modular connectors on the PSU, and connected the wires to the locations from which I had removed the original non-modular cabling.

The result is a fully modular PSU that should be easily capable of running 3 hi-end OC'd 7970's.

Well it will be as soon as we have a way to turn it on . . .

I brought out the green "turn on" wire and a gnd wire and made up a relay board, so that when the primary PSU turns on, its molex connection to the relay board delivers 12V and pulls in that relay, turning on the secondary PSU.

Initial testing shows everything to be working as planned.

I'll work on getting it mounted tomorrow.

Below are some pics of the PSU mods:

Darlene

Big pile of wire to add to my "usable scraps" bin:

Notice the pressed on connector on the black wires group, that's supposed to be securely soldered to the PCB, but it came out by itself, a real bad QC issue that could have caused problems.

My big azz soldering gun wasn't enough to unsolder the connections. I had to cut the wires off, and then drill the solder/wires out of the connectors to have a place to put the new wires from the re-purposed 8 pin EPS extensions in.



Here's the PSU open where you can see the 8 pin extensions wired in as 12V sources:
The regular NZXT cables connect to these interchangably with the rear panel connectors.



Here's a close up look:



Here's the cover / bottom back on and everything is still working:








You can see the black and green wires at the bottom of the pic. They ave a jumper on them as I hadn't made up the relay board yet



Here's the little inline relay board. You can see the molex plugged into a small PSU to test the operation:



Here's a close up of thr relay board, nothing fancy at all. I'll put some heat shrink around it when I get some big enough, after I took the pic, I put a few coats of clear laquer on it to keep out moisture:


----------



## bob808

I like it! Couldn't you put that little relay inside the power supply though? Maybe in one of the outlined sections I have in this picture. Looks like there is a bit of room on both selections on the modular side of the psu, or maybe you could attach it to the backside of the little daughter-board with some acrylic or something in between to prevent any shorting... just an idea.


----------



## k.3nny

Psu modding <3


----------



## mandrix

Did you do the sleeving? I think I would have opted for something with a little tighter weave. Just saying. Don't know how visible that's going to be in the grand scheme of the build.
Otherwise....good planning!
How do you handle the ground between the two psu's? Or is it necessary to have a common ground?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob808*
> 
> I like it! Couldn't you put that little relay inside the power supply though? Maybe in one of the outlined sections I have in this picture. Looks like there is a bit of room on both selections on the modular side of the psu, or maybe you could attach it to the backside of the little daughter-board with some acrylic or something in between to prevent any shorting... just an idea.


I will likely put it inside at some point before all is said and done.
Some of those spaces are not as big as they look with the cover off and the fan not in place.

The first order of business was to make sure everything works well, and having it external will make troubleshooting easier if problems arise.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Did you do the sleeving? I think I would have opted for something with a little tighter weave. Just saying. Don't know how visible that's going to be in the grand scheme of the build.
> Otherwise....good planning!
> How do you handle the ground between the two psu's? Or is it necessary to have a common ground?


I just left the stock sleeving, and since I had to push it back a bit after cutting the connector off, it opens up considerably. As this is more of a "test run for the concept" than a finished mod, I'm not overly concerned with its appearance at this point, as it will be refined later for length and sleeve color once it's in place and I have more information and other factors to work with.

As far as grounding between the 2 PSUs, the AC line side of each connect thru the 3 pin power cords where they plug into the line. Adding a ground strap to the case, since the mounting via the plastic sliders would isolate the PSU from the case would be easy enough, but keep in mind that all the GND connections are also tied to the PSU chassis gnd, so really it would just be redundant.

Keep up with the critical eye guys.

While I've probably had the same thought as you, there's going to be some that "somehow got by me."

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Saturday evening update:

I mounted the sliding rails from the top of my unused 810 HDD cage to the PSU case, having already mounted the interlocking half to the underside of the optical drive cage.

I'm really happy about how this looks and how it's going to work out in the build.

You also shamed me into mounting the turn-on relay inside the PSU case, sooner, rather than later,. . . . . But that's OK, it looks *much* nicer and I left enough pigtail length for plenty of options.

I drilled and tapped the PSU cover, but sheet metal without a push-thru-dimple doesn't hold much, so I used the plastic locking feet and nutted the screws on the inside to be worry free.

The plastic insulating liner goes over the nuts to be sure they can't short to the PCB:
You can also see in this pic, why I didn't want to run all 3 GPU's from the back panel plugs . . . .
There's just not that many parallel wires connectiong the back panel with the 12V & Gnd connetions on the main PCB



I trimmed the perfboard down a bit and rewired the relay so that it fits nicel in the rear corner, mounting it with some 3M VHB double sided adhesive.



Here's a good look at the PSU with the slider rails installed:



And here's a test run with everything re-assembled:



And the first time installing it into the case:



This fits so nicely to the front, that it flips the power switch as it goes in or out:



Here it is installed before I trimmed the protruding tabs off the upper slider half:
These definately get in the way of installing an accenting acrylic side panel on the drive cage.



And here it is trimmed flush:
Once the back edge of the drive cage, where the thumb screws used to come, and the tool-less bay locks are trimmed off, I'll make an acrylic side panel shaped like a backwards "L" to hide the PSU cables.





And from the opposite side:



Here it is from the front, I'm not sure just yet how I want to mod this area, but the PSU has to exhaust out thru that grill, and for that to happen, I can't have a fan blowing in against it. . . . So the 200mm is out, the power plug is in the way of that anyway.



Time to plan and engineer a bit before I start cutting again,

Darlene


----------



## modnoob

holy cow that looks like it was intended to go there exept for the 200 mm fan could you downsize to 180 if you wanted to use it

but nice work on the rail
can you take a pic on how it stays up by itself
im guessing its like this shape

<__>


----------



## kgtuning

Diva you sure have my attention, Subbed for sure. nice work so far!


----------



## Phelan

Subadubdub!!!! I'm lovin' it like McDonalds







. I really like the PSU placement. It looks... familiar...







Although your rail system is much nicer than my zip ties. I really need to figure out a new mounting system. Until then, though, it's cheap/efficient/effective.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *modnoob*
> 
> holy cow that looks like it was intended to go there exept for the 200 mm fan could you downsize to 180 if you wanted to use it
> but nice work on the rail
> can you take a pic on how it stays up by itself
> im guessing its like this shape
> <__>


Here ya go . . . .

The new Phantom 820 has the same sliders as the 410, they slide and can lock so they don't slide out, but they don't interlock vertically, and can't suspend anything like the Switch 810 sliders do.

I'd rather that they stayed with the 810 sliders, as it gives more flexibility to what you can use for a HDD cage.







Having torn it all apart now and pondering the alternatives;

I'm looking at cleaning up the fan opening at the top and squaring it out a bit to maximize the air flow out of the PSU.

That leaves room for a pair of 92mm fans side by side below the PSU, all I have to do is mod up a panel to put them on.



Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

OUCH!!!!!

They put those cable management clips there for a purpose . .

Looks like an assembly guy missed one and whomped the front panel on anyway.

This is the first time I've torn it down, so NO, . . it wasn't me . . .

Calling . . . XNine . . . . XNine

Darlene


----------



## jassilamba

So Darlene, what do you think of the case so far???


----------



## Phelan

Ouch, that sucks. Though I'd probably just splice it. But I don't like waiting on stuff


----------



## IT Diva

Since the 820 is pretty new, and there's not a lot of buildlog or teardown pics available to let everyone see what this thing looks like,
I took a bunch as I did my teardown.

Since this case I'm working on first is going to donate its front portion and rad space to the stretched case, I'll be working on the individual parts that, like the secondary PSU mounting, will become part of the stretched case composite.

Once I have everything modded as I like it, I'll re-assemble it to see that it all blends well together and make final tweaks before cutting the top and bottom panels to mate with the next case that will donate its rear panel and top and bottom panel rad and psu space.

Anyway, here's the breakdown on the phantom 820:

The USB pod, fan controller pod, and hue pod account for a massive tangle of cables.

I'm really going to think twice about sleeving what doesn't get seen, as it adds to the bulk of the cable mass, and that's no small mass in the 820 . . .

And that's before you add in fan cabling to the controller and such which does need to be sleeved.





Here's the interior RGB led bar that mounts in the top of the case, just inside the side panel lip:



Her's the top panel all stripped out:



And looking down:



The right top bay side plate is the same as the 810:





The left side is the same as the 810 as well:





The drivecage comes out by drilling 6 rivets, same as the 810, and goes back in with M3 hardware neat and sweet:



The 820 uses the 810 SE style optical drive cage, which has mounting keyholes for the 810 style sliders that hold the 810 style 3 bay HDD cage, as well mounting keyholes for the new style 820, 4 bay HDD cage:







I'll breakdown the bottom runners and the pedestal tomorrow, so we can see what modding options that may lie in that area.

Thanks for watching,

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> So Darlene, what do you think of the case so far???


I'm favorably impressed in some areas, and in others, I can't understand why they didn't leave it the h3ll alone and stay with the 810 parts.

The lighting is excellently done: Nicely placed RGB leds and lightpipes for the exterior light runs, and a very nicely done light bar for the interior top LEDs. this stuff has to be designed in, you just couldn't add it on. . .

Definately worth some extra cost









I'm not so impressed with how they handled the drive cages:

I guess they wanted something with a little less boxxy look to it . . . But they came up short in my opinion with that slanted end idea that wastes space and makes a drive bay side cover difficult.

Additionally, where the 810 has two 3 drive slot cages where you can run with 1 or 2 or none at all, because they all slide in and if you use just 1, it suspends from the optical drive cage, but is still slide out removable, . . . .

The 820 practically forces you to use the main 4 drive slot cage because you have to drill out 6 rivets to remove it.

4 drive slots makes for a tall cage and it's going to encroach on the air space above the lower rad.

If they had stayed with the 810 approach and interlocking sliders, you would have a choice of using the 4 drive cage, the 2 drive lower cage, or no cage at all, just like the 810 choices, only better because you could have a 4 drive or 2 drive option.

The 200mm fan in the front is nice, it should be nice and quiet while moving lots of air.

The top panel is very nicely designed. . . . slots to accomodate 15mm or 20mm fan spacing rads for the 140 sized fans and native support for 280 & 360 rads.

But to get a row of fans above it while staying under the plastic top cover, it's downset towards the mobo by about 10mm, taking away that much clearance above the mobo for underside rad fans.

I was dissappointed to see the loss of push / pull capability for full thickness rads, as well as the loss of some 420 rad support.

I have to assume the bean counters pointed out that some sacrifices are mandatory, and that a total redesign with major frame dimensions changing is just too costly, as it currently shares frame dimensions with the 810.

Anyway, I'd rate it 9 out of 10 and demonstrably worth the premium price over the 810.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Ouch, that sucks. Though I'd probably just splice it. But I don't like waiting on stuff


I'll probably do exactly that, since it's hidden anyway.

Getting replacement parts for such a new release may not be as easy as for the 410 or 810 or phantom.

Darlene


----------



## Caruban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Getting replacement parts for such a new release may not be as easy as for the 410 or 810 or phantom.


Even though you have the pic to prove it?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caruban*
> 
> Even though you have the pic to prove it?


I'm looking at it from an availability perspective.

I have no doubt that they'd send me one if they have it available.

Darlene


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm favorably impressed in some areas, and in others, I can't understand why they didn't leave it the h3ll alone and stay with the 810 parts.
> The lighting is excellently done: Nicely placed RGB leds and lightpipes for the exterior light runs, and a very nicely done light bar for the interior top LEDs. this stuff has to be designed in, you just couldn't add it on. . .
> Definately worth some extra cost
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not so impressed with how they handled the drive cages:
> I guess they wanted something with a little less boxxy look to it . . . But they came up short in my opinion with that slanted end idea that wastes space and makes a drive bay side cover difficult.
> Additionally, where the 810 has two 3 drive slot cages where you can run with 1 or 2 or none at all, because they all slide in and if you use just 1, it suspends from the optical drive cage, but is still slide out removable, . . . .
> The 820 practically forces you to use the main 4 drive slot cage because you have to drill out 6 rivets to remove it.
> 4 drive slots makes for a tall cage and it's going to encroach on the air space above the lower rad.
> If they had stayed with the 810 approach and interlocking sliders, you would have a choice of using the 4 drive cage, the 2 drive lower cage, or no cage at all, just like the 810 choices, only better because you could have a 4 drive or 2 drive option.
> The 200mm fan in the front is nice, it should be nice and quiet while moving lots of air.
> The top panel is very nicely designed. . . . slots to accomodate 15mm or 20mm fan spacing rads for the 140 sized fans and native support for 280 & 360 rads.
> But to get a row of fans above it while staying under the plastic top cover, it's downset towards the mobo by about 10mm, taking away that much clearance above the mobo for underside rad fans.
> I was dissappointed to see the loss of push / pull capability for full thickness rads, as well as the loss of some 420 rad support.
> I have to assume the bean counters pointed out that some sacrifices are mandatory, and that a total redesign with major frame dimensions changing is just too costly, as it currently shares frame dimensions with the 810.
> Anyway, I'd rate it 9 out of 10 and demonstrably worth the premium price over the 810.
> 
> I'll probably do exactly that, since it's hidden anyway.
> Getting replacement parts for such a new release may not be as easy as for the 410 or 810 or phantom.
> Darlene


Now that my dear is what I call a review (if you know what I mean), to the point and exactly what anyone would like to know.

I hope that NZXT listens to YOU.

From what I have read, the Corsair 900 should be EPIC, given I love NZXT so far, i hope they have an answer ready for that case soon with an upgraded switch. Just the added height will be awesome and (crosses finger) slide out reversible mobo tray).

+1 on a great write up.


----------



## IT Diva

As promised, . . . .

The last of the teardown pics showing the underside and how it fits together:

The pedestal piece at the front mounts directly to the metal bottom panel with 6 screws recessed into the 6 "fingers" that stick thru the bottom plastic trim panel.

The trim panel then has 8 screws holding it to the metal bottom panel.

Once you have that off, you can see that the dust filters have sliders that screw to the plastic trim panel, so everything can be dissassembled for modding or painting.

Darlene



















Now it's time to cut on it some, and see what it looks like . . . . .


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> *I'm not so impressed with how they handled the drive cages:*
> I guess they wanted something with a little less boxxy look to it . . . But they came up short in my opinion with that slanted end idea that wastes space and makes a drive bay side cover difficult.
> Additionally, where the 810 has two 3 drive slot cages where you can run with 1 or 2 or none at all, because they all slide in and if you use just 1, it suspends from the optical drive cage, but is still slide out removable, . . . .
> The 820 practically forces you to use the main 4 drive slot cage because you have to drill out 6 rivets to remove it.
> 4 drive slots makes for a tall cage and it's going to encroach on the air space above the lower rad.
> If they had stayed with the 810 approach and interlocking sliders, you would have a choice of using the 4 drive cage, the 2 drive lower cage, or no cage at all, just like the 810 choices, only better because you could have a 4 drive or 2 drive option.
> 
> Darlene


I totally agree with you, imo the 810 has the better HDD cage setup. (Just to reiterate your point) the slanted bays do look nice from a design perspective but it would've been nice if the top was also removable. I'm also a big fan of the cage handles on the switch, wished those were included.


----------



## NewHighScore

And the most creative way/place to mount a PSU award goes to:










Darlene!

I love the PSU mount. LOVE LOVE LOVE IT.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> And the most creative way/place to mount a PSU award goes to:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene!
> I love the PSU mount. LOVE LOVE LOVE IT.


It looked good in Phelan's Phantom too.


----------



## IT Diva

Last little Sunday update,

I took the front panel off and did some cutouts to the 200mm fan area so the PSU can exhaust without obstructions in the air path, and cut out so I can put a fan mounting for a pair of 92mm fans below the PSU in the space where the 200mm fan was.

There should be just about 95 to 100mm of space between the top of a lower rad with p-p fans and the bottom of the PSU, and enough room to put 2 X 92mm side by side.

I also started to clean up the optical drive cage, removed the rear tab where the thumb screws used to come on the 810 and the tool less plastic bits and their brackets.

Since the top rad won't come nearly as far forward as it does in my 810, the cage shouldn't really need any additional mods.

I'll likely dress up the top side plates a bit to make cable access easier on the right side, and a little more open looking on the left side.

Darlene


----------



## WaitWhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Plan is to use white LED fans with clear frames to accent the real colors for both rads and rear case fans:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14875/fan-953/Aerocool_Shark_White_Edition_140mm_x_25mm_High_Air_Pressure_Fan_w_White_LEDs.html?tl=g36c331s877#blank


Any particular reason you chose these fans? Just out of interest for my next build with this case

Subscriber also btw


----------



## modnoob

well sharks are awesome i have one in my case and all i can say is wow they move alot of air even at 7 volts and i heard they had great static pressure
but yea i like them but what is your reason Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> Any particular reason you chose these fans? Just out of interest for my next build with this case
> Subscriber also btw


In a move somewhat unusual for me, I'm using them for purely aesthetic reasons, as opposed to top cfm and static pressure.

Actually, they do have extremely good cfm ratings, but not in the top 10% on static pressure.

In this case, the static pressure isn't an over riding concern because the rads are low fins per inch (9) and will do very well even with less static pressure.

I've used a number of those fans, both 120's and 140's on some of my phantoms, and I like them, lots of air moved and very reasonable in the sound level department.

Since the plan is to use the rads picture bellow, which are stainless steel side rails and copper fins, I particularly want them to be as visible as possible. . . . especially where I'm hoping to have 4 of them in two pairs as 840's.

These fans have a clear frame and pale white blades that combine to be nearly transparent, and with white LEDs, they illuminate everything around them and thru them, and show its true color.

While I usually use these fans for case fans, as opposed to rad fans, they are exactly what I'm looking for in rad fans on this build.

Darlene


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> OUCH!!!!!
> 
> They put those cable management clips there for a purpose . .
> 
> Looks like an assembly guy missed one and whomped the front panel on anyway.
> 
> This is the first time I've torn it down, so NO, . . it wasn't me . . .
> 
> Calling . . . XNine . . . . XNine
> 
> Darlene


PFT. I know you did that, just to mess with me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
















We'll get you a new LED wire out. That's quite unusual, actually. Sorry for not responding yesterday, I was off the PC pretty much all weekend studying for finals. Go ahead and PM me name/addy. We'll get one out for ya ASAP, AKA STAT!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> PFT. I know you did that, just to mess with me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We'll get you a new LED wire out. That's quite unusual, actually. Sorry for not responding yesterday, I was off the PC pretty much all weekend studying for finals. Go ahead and PM me name/addy. We'll get one out for ya ASAP, AKA STAT!


Hey Jason, No Problemo, . . . how's the finals going!
















If it's OK with you, I'll just fix it, or use the one from the case I'm taking the back portion from.

Its gotta cost more to ship it than it's worth, and I could use a couple sets of 810 style interlocking sliders a lot more instead.









Darlene


----------



## dark7721

very intrested it this build want to see what the case looks like when finished as want to do my first water cooled build ijn this case


----------



## IT Diva

A little Saturday update:

As you could see in the pics on the previous page, I can't use the 200mm front fan, as the PSU exhausts to the front, and the AC power cord (even a 90 degree one) needs some of that space.

Rather than leave a big ugly hole, I wanted a panel that would cover most of the open area, and also allow me to add a pair of 92mm fans, if I have a need for them.

The original 200 mm fan is 30mm thick, so I set the panel back 10mm so that I could use 38mm thick, 92mm diameter fans if I need to move some serious air, Vantec Tornados perhaps, as there is not much selection in 25mm thick fans in that size.

If it turns out that I don't need the more powerful fans, I can just put in some mediocre white led fans to add light and fill up the holes.

Always better to be ready in case I need the bigger fans, and turn out not to, than to find I need them, and not have made provision for them.

So here's how Saturday morning went:

Darlene

Here's the pic of the open 200mm fan hole to be closed off:



First thing is to make a pattern from some posterboard and make sure it fits as desired:



Cut out a piece of sheet steel, 22 gage is tough enough for small items, and still easy enough to work with:





Drilling the fan holes takes patience, and some experience:



Wooo Hooooo, . . pretty nice job there Darlene, untill deburring the second hole, then Ooooops . . .



Put a pretty nasty cut in my hand as well, but at least I didn't have to drive myself to the ER for stitches this time.

Anyway . . . With more damage to my ego than my hand, and a little blacksmithing, I'm at least back to where I was a bunch of curse words ago:



Here it is sitting in place:



And with the PSU in place as well:



Now to make it all look more professional, I added the little cresent at the bottom:


----------



## k.3nny

Yess nice nice







!

always nice to see some progress







!

But u work with a grinder to get clean etches? haha wow







!


----------



## IT Diva

I did a little more trimming on the optical drives cage, notably to the very top bay with the screw on side panels.

I like having a bit more finger room up there to work in, and with the huge mass of cables that the 820 has, there's more room needed on the right side too.

This should be the final version of the top bay side panels:





Here it is, as apart as it can get, all the rivets drilled out: (the drive cage parts unscrew now, so that's efffectively apart)



With it apart, I took a good look at whether you could squeeze a 420 into the new phantom 820, like in the switch 810.

Here's what I concluded should work, physically at least, the cables are going to be another matter as they'll need to be relocated forward some:

It's alot like the 810.

If you cut the top bay side panels away at the rear, you can just put a fan controller in that bay with the front holes.,

You can get an XT45 420 in there with a fan on the underside, but not the top, as the USB / fan control modules are in the way.

The modules will obstruct the exitting airflow some, but you'll still be better off than with a 280.

It's made for a 280 up top, and the front of a 280 sits well behind the optical drive bays: (it's easy to see here with everything upside down)



If you cut the side panels of the top bay forward to where you can still mount a fan controller in that bay, you'll have room for the XT45 420 to fit.

Now to get the cables to relocate, you'd need to "L" shape the rectangular hole they normally go thru to the left and then forward,
blending into the round hole so that they'll go down in front of the rad:





Hope this is helping some of you plan your 820 build,

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> Yess nice nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> always nice to see some progress
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> But u work with a grinder to get clean etches? haha wow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


I just use a file to finish up on interior edges, decades of using one of these gets you pretty good . . .









Well except when a disc gets a ding and tears up your work.









I have a small bench mount belt sander that gets exterior edges nice and flat and straight. . .

Just clean up the burrs and it's ready to go

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

A little update to the first post above;

Since no good deed ever seems to go unpunished,

With everything apart to where I can start to get some measurements and perspective,

I may need to mod that front panel filler plate a bit.

The lip that sets back 10mm is high enough that it will clear a top fan on the rad I plan to use on the bottom which is listed as 63mm tall.

What I'm not sure about untill I have it in hand, is how far that front end cap (tank) sits forward of the fan mounting holes.

From what I'm measuring, it looks like to fit a 280 on the bottom, (or any 140mm fan sized rad) The rad can not be over 60mm tall.

Since mine is supposed to be 63mm, it looks like I may need to remove the lower 5mm to 10mm or so of the recess that the 200mm fan originally set into.



I'll put in the main part of the front panel filler plate, but leave off the lower cresent shaped piece untill I get the rad and make adjustments if necessary.

Darlene


----------



## modnoob

this is helping me plan my phantom 820 build
thanks rep +


----------



## IT Diva

Drum roll please . . . .

And the cuts everyone's been waiting for . . . .

I cut the top and the bottom panels off to match the 280 rad length, so both are now ready to graft on the next 280 sections to.

Here's the bottom panel:

Notice that they did a nice job of putting slots to accomodate 280's with either 15mm or 20mm fan spacings.





And looking from the other side to see that the slots are correct; the fans are set 5mm apart to show they would fit on a Black Ice rad.



Now here's the top panel:





Now look at that pic again, closely . . .

They screwed the pooch, while they put in slots, they're useless. You still can't use a rad with 20mm fan spacings 'cuz they're too short.

They didn't account for the extra 5mm in length over a 15mm spaced counterpart.

The left end screws are max to the left of their slots, and the right end screws are max to the right of their slots, and the fans are tight together as they would be on a 15mm spacing rad.

The front slots need to be 5mm longer to the front, or more accurately, moved 5mm to the front.

Let's friggin' hope they got the new top panels for the switch right . . . . .

Darlene

OK, Tomorrow I'll work on getting the rear rad sections ready . . .


----------



## JollyMan

Doesnt nzxt specify that you can fit a 280 or full 360mm rad in the top? Why dont you use a 360?


----------



## everlast4291987

I was thinking for months on doing this with the old phantom to put either watercooling to the max or have to separate pc configs.


----------



## k.3nny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> Doesnt nzxt specify that you can fit a 280 or full 360mm rad in the top? Why dont you use a 360?


280rad will fit, but no black ice because 20mm spacing instead of 15







360 rad will fit easely


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> Doesnt nzxt specify that you can fit a 280 or full 360mm rad in the top? Why dont you use a 360?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> 280rad will fit, but no black ice because 20mm spacing instead of 15
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 360 rad will fit easely


Exactly,

This was the point I was making . . .

They went to the trouble to add slots to be able to accomodate both 15 and 20mm fan spaced rads because of the flack they got from the 20mm only spacing on the 810.

The problem is, they must not have tried them out, 'cuz they got the front slots placed wrong and it won't accept a 20mm spaced rad.

About using a 360;

Have you even been following the thread, or the concept of the build . . . It wouldn't fit the concept at all . . .

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

A little Mini Stretch . . . . .

This is at 560 rad size, waiting on more 820's, one of which will stretch this to take an 840 sized rad both top and bottom.

I'll update the process with more pics during the week.

Darlene


----------



## modnoob

that is awsome


----------



## sinnedone

Thats coming together nicely.









Cant wait to see more of the case completed.


----------



## modnoob

What's your plans on the side panel


----------



## socketus

WoW ! you certainly had a VISION







that's looking REAL GOOD - amazing even


----------



## kgtuning

Metal work looks good Diva, nice job.


----------



## DEcomputers

This is fantastic viewing! Lots of interesting ideas, too... Rep+


----------



## hakz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> A little Mini Stretch . . . . .
> 
> This is at 560 rad size, waiting on more 820's, one of which will stretch this to take an 840 sized rad both top and bottom.
> 
> I'll update the process with more pics during the week.
> 
> Darlene


I chuckled.








beautiful!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *modnoob*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that is awsome


Thank you very much . . . and there's more yet to come . . .
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Thats coming together nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cant wait to see more of the case completed.


This is still in a mock-up stage . . . . I still have another 280 mm of stretch to go before I take it to the welder . . . though I really do like this length to height ratio look
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *modnoob*
> 
> What's your plans on the side panel


The main side panel will be acrylic with some bits of the original sheet metal at the back and front edges to match up nicely.

It will hinge at the top like a gull wing with electric linear actuators to raise and lower it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> WoW ! you certainly had a VISION
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's looking REAL GOOD - amazing even


Thank you sir, coming from someone who watches a lot of builds in a lot of threads, that means a lot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Metal work looks good Diva, nice job.


Thank you sir, coming from a man who knows his way around a metal shop, that means a lot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DEcomputers*
> 
> This is fantastic viewing! Lots of interesting ideas, too... Rep+


Thanks again, everyone for the compliments.

This is sort of stage 1 for this project . . .

Ultimately, it'll be stretched another 280mm to be able to fit 840 rads top and bottom.

The next stretch is going to be a bit tricky though, . . . since I'm using 2 pairs of these 420's

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15679/ex-rad-385/Aquacomputer_Airplex_Modularity_System_420_Radiator_-_Copper_Fins_-_Dual_Circuit_33042.html?tl=g30c95s1554

Joined by these series connectors:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14282/ex-rad-309/Aquacomputer_Airplex_Modularity_System_Serial_Connector_Adapter_-_Acetal_33502.html?tl=g30c95s1554

It turns out that there's a bit more than 280mm in total length, with the extra space at the connector.

That means I have to graft in another 280 rad section from a third 820, and then cut that in the middle and add in yet another little section about 10 to 20 mm long where the connector is.

Once I get that done, I can take it to my tig pro to have it welded so then I can do the body and fender shop work to blend it all in nice and smooth.

When the case is welded and solid, then I can start on the side panel(s)

Stay tuned,

Darlene

Actually, I kinda like this size a lot too,

I might just have to build 2 of these stretched cases . . . a mini 560 and a maxi 840


----------



## Caruban

I would hardly call a 560 mini, but to think you'd invest 5 total Phantom 820's in this build... That's $1250...









When I grow up, I want to be you... but with a kitten.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caruban*
> 
> I would hardly call a 560 mini, but to think you'd invest 5 total Phantom 820's in this build... That's $1250...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I grow up, I want to be you... but with a kitten.


You don't want to know what I used the kittens for









There's only going to be 3 in this build when it gets to 840 size, 2 more, only if I build a second stretched case at 560 size.

Most people have no issues with spending 40K or more on a new car . . . . I'd rather have an older one and have the money for more fun things.

Darlene


----------



## ShineGraphics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> A little Mini Stretch . . . . .
> This is at 560 rad size, waiting on more 820's, one of which will stretch this to take an 840 sized rad both top and bottom.
> I'll update the process with more pics during the week.
> Darlene


O.O

I think a new pair of pants are in order...
That is actually amazing!


----------



## Caruban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Most people have no issues with spending 40K or more on a new car . . . . I'd rather have an older one and have the money for more fun things.
> Darlene


I'm completely with you on that.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Most people have no issues with spending 40K or more on a new car . . . . I'd rather have an older one and have the money for more fun things.
> Darlene


Being that cars are one of my favorite toys I can see how that can be applied to your build.









But like we say over in the car modding world... "You gotta pay to play."


----------



## k.3nny

Looks sick!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Being that cars are one of my favorite toys I can see how that can be applied to your build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But like we say over in the car modding world... "You gotta pay to play."


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> 
> 
> Looks sick!


Thanks guys,

My goal is to redifine the phrase; "Go big or Go home".









Nah, . . Not really, I just enjoy the bejeezus out of creating things beyond the pale.

I did get a pair of the modular system rads ordered along with the series coupling pieces.

I'll need them to get exactly the right length for the space between the two 15mm spaced 420 sections.

Darlene


----------



## Phelan

Pretty flippin awesome Diva. I'm diggin' it. I plan to be doing some similar mods soon, but in the opposite spectrum of size comparison







.


----------



## socketus

I'm still trying to ABSORB this ... an 840 ... currently you have a 420 and some space. So how deep is this current build of the case ? coz like everyone notes, it is SICK looking !!
and the Doctor is coming


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Pretty flippin awesome Diva. I'm diggin' it. I plan to be doing some similar mods soon, but in the opposite spectrum of size comparison
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thanks,

I should have enough scraps and left overs to make a pretty nice little mini itx phantom 820, lol

Wouldn't that be a hoot!

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> I'm still trying to ABSORB this ... an 840 ... currently you have a 420 and some space. So how deep is this current build of the case ? coz like everyone notes, it is SICK looking !!
> and the Doctor is coming


The case is made to accept a 280 up top and a 280 on the bottom, as far as 140 fan sized rads go.

So far, I have grafted the rad mounting portion plus the front of 1 case together with the rad mounting portion and rear of a second case, so that I can put a 560 up top and on the bottom.

I ran out of old 140 fans for display, but you can see 4 on top, and 2 with 2 open spaces, on the bottom.

By taking just the rad mounting portion from a third case, and putting it between the front and rear parts I have already, I'll have the right length for an 840 rad.

The length of the top panel and the lower panel, exclusive of the plastic front, is 818mm or 32.25"

The next 280 stretch will add about 295mm or 11.6" to the total.

I'm actually really liking the looks of this at the current size, but it's not really enough rad capacity for quad GPUs with the high tropical ambient temps I have here all year, . . . Though it would be kickazz for a triple GPU setup.

I guess I could always build a complimentary pair . .

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Pretty flippin awesome Diva. I'm diggin' it. I plan to be doing some similar mods soon, but in the opposite spectrum of size comparison
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thanks,

I should have enough scraps and left overs to make a pretty nice little mini itx phantom 820, lol

Wouldn't that be a hoot!

Darlene

Anyone for the new Mini ITX Phantom 8.20 . . . . .


----------



## kgtuning

Lol. That's great!


----------



## PCModderMike

I saw NZXT post a pic on Facebook of your latest work and I immediately jumped in here to get a better look. That stretched case!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Lol. That's great!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I saw NZXT post a pic on Facebook of your latest work and I immediately jumped in here to get a better look. That stretched case!


Thanks guys,

Waiting on parts again for the next phase.

Darlene


----------



## Phelan

Yes! lol


----------



## modnoob

how much would that itx cost if i were to buy it from you


----------



## k.3nny

Yess, That Itx sized Phannie







.

I realy like your creativenes!

U go girl







!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> Yess, That Itx sized Phannie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I realy like your creativenes!
> U go girl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Cut it down to one bay at the very top to make room for the mobo, and there's room for a 200mm rad in front . . .

What started out as a bit of silly chatter, might could actually work.









When I get some time, I'll prep the top and bottom panels for the welder's.

Darlene


----------



## redxmaverick

This looks awesome! Add some train wheels, a coin machine, charge 50 cents for the neighborhood kiddies to ride it and you'll make back the money you spent in no time.


----------



## Blaze0303

Havnt checked on this in awhile. Love the modding goin on here!


----------



## Citra

Just read all 18 pages after seeing it on facebook and it was definitely worth it. Sub'd.


----------



## socketus

*I present the ....*
_PHANTOMETTE_
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Buzzkill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm actually really liking the looks of this at the current size, but it's not really enough rad capacity for quad GPUs with the high tropical ambient temps I have here all year, . . . Though it would be kickazz for a triple GPU setup.
> I guess I could always build a complimentary pair . .
> Darlene


The high tropical ambient temps you have here all year a water chiller would give better temps no mater how big or many Radiators you install.Hailea HC-500A 110V (1/2HP=790Watt cooling capacity) Waterchiller The cooling units from Hailea have been used in trusted waterchillers from other manufacturers for over 15 years. The new heat exchangers of the Ultra series are made from titanium. Therefore the chillers are perfect for watercooling systems. Another positive aspect about the Hailea units is the low noise emission. The pricing of the new series is also pleasantly affordable $499.95. It would cost the same for an water chiller or 2x Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity System 480 Radiator's . I know it doesn't fit your limo theme build but it would almost fit inside stretched case .


----------



## vangsfreaken

Oh god, this is epic... Found it on Facebook, and immediately subscribed


----------



## Roboduck

This came up on my facebook feed and I knew I must subscribe. Very cool, its amazing what a a simple chop and lengthen can do. Reminds me a of a chopped t-bucket, long and low. Keep it up


----------



## k.3nny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roboduck*
> 
> This came up on my facebook feed and I knew I must subscribe. Very cool, its amazing what a a simple chop and lengthen can do. Reminds me a of a chopped t-bucket, long and low. Keep it up


My fault i think hahaha









This is gonna be epic


----------



## barracks510

Quote:


> Just read all 18 pages after seeing it on facebook and it was definitely worth it.


yes it was...


----------



## fishymamba

Saw this on facebook, awesome job so far, can't wait to see the rads!!!


----------



## Figit090

I saw this on facebook too, I didn't notice it in your sig, because I generally don't notice sigs! lol.

Awesome idea, I can't wait to see how this turns out! Set on an idea for the door? I'm curious about custom doors, I have yet to mod my 410, and this would definitely fall into that category.

Doubt I'll have to do custom hinges or splicing but still, interested, and to see what sort of CPU/GPU setup you go with, this is a monster!


----------



## IT Diva

Thanks to all the new folks for coming by and subbing up.

Answers to the questions about the doors and GPUs are all answered in some detail in earlier posts, but quickly, quad OC'd 7970's, or whatever is the latest and greatest when it's time to buy them, and an acrylic, power operated gullwing side panel.

Stay tuned,

Darlene


----------



## skymare

**** man! As others, I saw it on the NZXT fans page in Facebook.
I didn't hesitate to come here and get subscribed for this amazing project!
Sorry but I have to say you're freaking crazy, dude!

Can't wait for more updates on this mod!

Keep it up!

Cheers from Spain


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> A little Mini Stretch . . . . .
> This is at 560 rad size, waiting on more 820's, one of which will stretch this to take an 840 sized rad both top and bottom.
> I'll update the process with more pics during the week.
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



That is Awesome Sauce. So much win! Awesome job!!


----------



## Rakin

Its coming along great.








Just saw it on the NZXT page and knew I wouldn't sleep without seeing the thread.


----------



## bigchieftaco

Wow.... Great work! Can't wait to see more.


----------



## CiBi

Subbed!


----------



## IT Diva

Hey guys,

Kind of a mini update this weekend so far;

My first pair of the copper finned modular system rads with the stainless side rails came in, but unfortunately, the series connector piece that is used to join them together didn't get here yet, buggers . . .

I really need to have the rads joined to be able to determine the exact overal length, and the center space between the two 420 halves so that I can make up the support rails that strengthen the chassis and keep everything straight and in a flat plane.

In the meantime, I used the rails for the 560 stretch, repositioned by 140 mm at each end, to get a relatively close approximation of the actual length and look of the 840 stretch.

It's still about 40mm shorter than it will be in final form, and the rear rad hangs back into the PSU area a bit, but when the rads are joined and the new rails are made, it'll be in exactly the right place as a 280 would look in a stock case.

Here's how it's coming along:

Darlene

Shiny new rads . . . For over $250 a pop, you'd think they would have come with some friggin' screws for crimony sake . . . But nooooo

I'll probably need a custom length anyway and end up ordering some from McMaster Carr . . . but still . . .

Here's a close up of the dual circuit rad, with 2 seperate internal circuits:



Here they both are end to end beside the top and bottom chassis panels with the 560 stretch, to get an idea of how long these things actually are.
The single circuit rad is on the feft, and the dual circuit one on the right, I got one of each, so that I have the option when I add the series connector, I can actually build it as either a single or dual circuit 840:



Now since everyone knows, that when modding, no good deed ever goes unpunished . . . .

The machined Delrin modular end pieces come a few mm more forward of the frontmost fan mounting holes than the stamped sheet metal end tanks of a conventional rad, so there's just not quite enough space at the front without modding the lower section of the front panel.

The extra few mm of height that these rads have also necessitate some modding to the front panel, so I just put it all into one cutout.

I also cut a little piece off of the cutout scrap to make a bridge piece to cover the area where the lower portion of the original 200 mm fan opening is:


----------



## k.3nny

whoohoo radiator madness







!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> whoohoo radiator madness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Yeppers!
















Now here's the cool part:







Once it stretches the final 40mm or so, it'll sit perfectly on 2 complete base assemblies, and I should be able to graft in enough of the third top plastic piece to make a nice transition from the frontmost one, to a rear one with the USB and fan controller section removed.

I'll also take a pice of the third mobo tray to make a connector for the two that are in the normal locations in the pics.

The plan is to keep the standoffs in the extra mobo trays, and put a pice of mirror acrylic to cover the whole back with just enough holes to pass the cables thru where there are grommets.

Darlene


----------



## Moebieus

This is so amazing! Its the first subscription I look for when I get my email updates! Keep up the great work so far, can't wait to see more


----------



## Teejay187

This build is just wild! Insane cooling capabilities!

I got a tip for the paint job:



Subbed for sure!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teejay187*
> 
> This build is just wild! Insane cooling capabilities!
> I got a tip for the paint job:
> 
> Subbed for sure!


Yours is like the second bullet train reference, maybe I need to rename the 840 stretch to "Bullet Train Edition" and keep the 560 stretch as the "Stretched Limo Edition"

Darlene


----------



## ginger_nuts

All I am thinking is: _"You better put it in place before filling this baby up. It is going to weigh a ton."_

But awesome progress so far, keep it coming


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> All I am thinking is: _"You better put it in place before filling this baby up. It is going to weigh a ton."_
> But awesome progress so far, keep it coming


This. Phew, thinking about that thing full of hardware and the loop filled, hope you've got some helping hands over there to move that thing around.








Also did you try the FCPU discount code I gave you in the Switch thread?


----------



## Teejay187

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yours is like the second bullet train reference, maybe I need to rename the 840 stretch to "Bullet Train Edition" and keep the 560 stretch as the "Stretched Limo Edition"
> Darlene


I thought of the train because of the tinted acrylic that looks like a window. Are you doing one long window on the side?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> This. Phew, thinking about that thing full of hardware and the loop filled, hope you've got some helping hands over there to move that thing around.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also did you try the FCPU discount code I gave you in the Switch thread?


I used the OCN55 code, but only had to get the serial connectors and some misc stuff from fcpu.

The rads came from PPCs, as they had both the single and dual circuit ones in stock.

I'll get the next pair from PPCs as well, as long as they have them in stock, cuz the shipping was really fast, even if I did have the extra pita of having to pay-pal the payment.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teejay187*
> 
> I thought of the train because of the tinted acrylic that looks like a window. Are you doing one long window on the side?


That's the plan for now, one long acrylic window with gull wing hinging and electric linear actuators to raise and lower it.

I'm looking at using semi-mirrored acrylic for the side panel.

Some additional thoughts that have been in mind as I have it to look at:

As mentioned, all the mobo tray not covered by the mobo, will have mirrored acrylic, and for resevoirs, I got to thinking that the long 400mm size layed horizontally, 3 high, (triple loop) might look really awesome, and also fill a lot of the space between the front of the mobo and the drive bay area.

The reason for the mirrored back panel is to work with the semi-mirrored side panel so it gets the infinietly deep reflections thing going. Like when you look into a mirror, with another mirror behind you.

I'll order a set of fans for the first 840 rad tomorrow, and then with next week's paycheck, I can order the next rad pair to make the top 840.

I ordered the M3 hardware to mount the fans from McMaster this afternoon, so that'll be here next week, . . . (crossing my fingers)

Hopefully, by next weekend, the next P 820 will be here so I can finish up the chassis and then start working out the side window details.

Darlene


----------



## Figit090

you should just put wheels on it and make it a little train you can actually roll.

Looking great!


----------



## RussianJ

Where are the awesome airplex rads? Make a 120.9 down low and a second up high.

Thinking about one like that makes me


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianJ*
> 
> Where are the awesome airplex rads? Make a 120.9 down low and a second up high.
> Thinking about one like that makes me


I have the 140 X 18 on my modular external cooling system,

but I wanted the stainless sides / copper fins of the modularity system rads and liked the idea of joining 2 X 420's for this build.

Darlene


----------



## sockpirate

mind adding a pictures index ? Dont really enjoy sifting through pages


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate*
> 
> mind adding a pictures index ? Dont really enjoy sifting through pages


I'll try to do that this week while waiting on parts.

Problem is that while I'm a pretty good custom builder, I'm not too good at how to do stuff on the forums.

At least I reserved the second post for an index . . . now to figure out how to do that . . .

Darlene


----------



## sockpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'll try to do that this week while waiting on parts.
> Problem is that while I'm a pretty good custom builder, I'm not too good at how to do stuff on the forums.
> At least I reserved the second post for an index . . . now to figure out how to do that . . .
> Darlene


Just upload the pics as usual, then select them all and then press the spoilers button


----------



## modnoob

i have a queston with all the cooling how much higher than abildent do you expect to get with this loop


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate*
> 
> Just upload the pics as usual, then select them all and then press the spoilers button


I know how to use spoilers, but that doesn't exactly get me an index that links to the pics in various posts in the thread.

I'll work on it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *modnoob*
> 
> i have a queston with all the cooling how much higher than abildent do you expect to get with this loop


I'm looking to get close to, or hopefully, less than 5C at higher load levels, and close to 2C for general use.

I'm in the caribbean, so it's bikini wearing summer weather here all year long.

Ambients here are normally 30 to 35C, so 2C cooling for me gets system temps similar to 10C cooling for someone with nice low ambient temps.

Darlene


----------



## Sqrldg

In the top right corner of each post is the post number which is also a link to that post. Just copy and paste.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/200#post_18851179


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sqrldg*
> 
> In the top right corner of each post is the post number which is also a link to that post. Just copy and paste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/200#post_18851179


Thanks,

Guess I can't dummy up on you guys any more









Darlene


----------



## Kazed

Nice look so far, been building my own systems for the last decade or so, but it looks like madness , both in the ways that your gonna buy your self poor in towers and hardware









And did anyone say overkill ?









But i look forward to seeing the finished product and what the total bill would be for a system like this.

I surely do hope you benchmark alot etc, else this build would be a waste in some ways


----------



## nickta69

daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaam
you definitely got subbed!
btw, may i ask how much this crazy setup costs?


----------



## k.3nny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickta69*
> 
> daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaam
> you definitely got subbed!
> btw, may i ask how much this crazy setup costs?


So much, she lost the count


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickta69*
> 
> daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaam
> you definitely got subbed!
> btw, may i ask how much this crazy setup costs?


Can't tell that untill it's done,

and by then,

I hope to have lost track.









In truth, it may not be all that much more than a similar build in a CaseLabs or other similar big box on the floor.

By the time you buy the case, all the top boxes, pedestals, bays, window side panels,windowed tops, and accessories, it's about what I have in cases, possibly more.

I just get the enjoyment of creating something exactly the way I want it, that no one else has.

Darlene


----------



## MaDeuce50

I like where this is going. heh, heh, alll right


----------



## IT Diva

I swear if you just leave them alone unchaperoned, the little buggers breed on their own . . . .









The best part is that now I have the parts I need to join the rads, and finish the chassis stretch.

Then the next pair of rads and work on the side panel window.

Woooo Hoooooo,

Darlene


----------



## modnoob

got my 820 in the mail and i cant open it till chrismas


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I swear if you just leave them alone unchaperoned, the little buggers breed on their own . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The best part is that now I have the parts I need to join the rads, and finish the chassis stretch.
> Then the next pair of rads and work on the side panel window.
> Woooo Hoooooo,
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










You lifting this thing all by yourself? If you need help I'm a couple islands away









Those rads look serious, can't wait to see the doors.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *modnoob*
> 
> got my 820 in the mail and i cant open it till chrismas


Wooo Hooooo . . .

Welcome to the club.

Surely it must be Christmas, _somewhere_

You're going to love it . .

Darlene


----------



## modnoob

i hope i will and i hope to do some liquid cooling
i have some ideas that i dont want to disclose
but i will do it pm if you want
thanks


----------



## BoutDrama

This is gonna be nasty


----------



## jacksonn24

Nice this going to be awesome


----------



## IT Diva

Was able to get a little bit done after work today.

Nothing major, but each little step gets you closer to your goal.

The connector block for the rads came in and I finally got to take them apart and assemble the two 420's back as a single 840.

There's a lot of CNC machining done that looks very nice, but I would have liked to see a bit of handwork to deburr after the countersink operation on the stainless steel side rails.

The o-rings are rather thin, and require considerable patience and a tiny dab of grease to ease them into their grooves to where they stay there while assembling the core assembly to an end cap or join block.

Once done though, they really do look awesome.

Darlene

Here's a look withthe side rails removed:



Here's an end-on view with the outline of the o-ring that segregates the secondary circuit tubes visible:



The dual circuit end cap that was just removed that will go back on the end of the second rad:



The connecting block:



Here it is installed:



And it's now an 840:


----------



## KirkyMod

I really need a towel on my floor, My drool is just everywhere...


----------



## kgtuning

WOW!







I'm jealous


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I swear if you just leave them alone unchaperoned, the little buggers breed on their own . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The best part is that now I have the parts I need to join the rads, and finish the chassis stretch.
> Then the next pair of rads and work on the side panel window.
> Woooo Hoooooo,
> Darlene






























This is an insane build. I *LOVE* it.

More pictures ... MORE, MORE, MORE!


----------



## mandrix

Darlene, when I look at that frontal/side shot a few pages back, I'm reminded of a sleek train like the pic someone posted suggesting color schemes.
So I have to agree with him somewhat, a sleek high speed monster bullet train with a stripe to match.








That's going to be one heavy, long sucker, but I know you have those carts so hoping you don't wreck your back moving it!

Gull wing door. Hmmmmm.


----------



## Teejay187

Gotta love the versatility of the airplex system! This is such a fun build to follow! I have 1x240mm and 1x360mm dual loop Airplex in aluminium and they cool an overclocked 2600k, Sabertooth P67 VRM, RAM and GPU(GTX680), at max 40 degrees celsius. The copper ones you have cool about 40% better than the aluminum ones after what I have seen.

In other words. You have some serious cooling power!


----------



## modnoob

My phantom 820 build log is up yay just need the case but for now I'm moding the small things like the PSU and optical drive


----------



## socketus

um,,, where's the link to your log ? ... lol .... linklog link in log .. ??!!


----------



## modnoob

Will do http://www.overclock.net/t/1340550/build-log-the-old-movie#post_18876065

Also it diva how effective are those rads do they cool very nice and are you connecting it to your overkill cooling solution for even more overkill


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *modnoob*
> 
> Will do http://www.overclock.net/t/1340550/build-log-the-old-movie#post_18876065
> Also it diva how effective are those rads do they cool very nice and are you connecting it to your overkill cooling solution for even more overkill


In reverse order;

The external cooling module essentially stays with the switch 810 build.

The 810 has limited internal rad space, and when running tri or quad GPU's with an i7 E, it just isn't enough, especially with substantial overclocks and hi ambient temps.

The concept behind my stretched case format is to make enough internal space for sufficient "raddage" to run quad GPU's and keep all the cooling onboard, and in a format that doesn't resemble a mini fridge on the floor.

The rads are somewhat of an unknown.

The only testing on them, raves about them, but it also seems to be rather suspect.

Martin didn't find them any better than anything else, in fact, rather mediocre, but best as I recall, that was an aluminum fin one. He also remarked at how they are particularly restrictive, probably because of the way the delrin ends have machined passages to groups of tubes.

Martin tests with a fixed pump rate, so that a particularly restrictive rad would get significantly less flowrate than a much less restrictive one.

He tests that way so that you get the best idea of how the rad being tested would work in the average system.

The probability is, that because those rads have round tubes, they'll need a very high flow rate to maintain turbulent flow in the tubes to get the efficiency that the size and copper fin pack can deliver, which is going to require a LOT of pump to overcome the restrictive end caps.

I think to effectively use these rads, you have to design the system specifically for them.

To be sure I'm leveraging all the performance I can get from the rads, each of the 3 loops will have a dual D5 pump setup with a Koolance flow meter and temp sensors:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11257/ex-pmp-103/Bitspower_Dual_D5_Mod_Top_Extreme_-_Acrylic_UV_Red_Version_BP-2D5TOPAC-UVRD.html?tl=g30c107s1805

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13279/koo-292/Koolance_INS-FM18_Coolant_Flow_Meter_.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13163/ex-tub-891/Phobya_G14_Inline_Temp_Sensor_Coupler_-_2-Pin_71170.html?tl=g30c229s579

I'll be using the new PWM speed controlled D5's, so that I can analyse the flow rate to temp delta to really see how well the rads work, and if there's a flowrate threshold above which you have dramatically better performance than below it.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17549/ex-pmp-214/Swiftech_MCP655-PWM_12v_Water_Pump_Module_-_PWM_Enabled_Single_Version.html?tl=g30c107s1802

Here's a couple pics of the rad with its support rails mounted on the bottom panels, ready to have the center section cut from the third case and fitted.

This is the exact length and placement that it will be, and as you can see, the end pieces on the rad come pretty close to the PSU and front of the chassis . . . not the rad you'd want for a tight space

It does, however sit nicely on 2 full base assemblies.

Darlene


----------



## ginger_nuts

This build just gets better with every up date.

I do have to ask;

Do you do much planning and research before embarking on your project builds?

and

How much do you change from your original design / concept as you progress on your builds?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> This build just gets better with every up date.
> I do have to ask;
> Do you do much planning and research before embarking on your project builds?
> and
> How much do you change from your original design / concept as you progress on your builds?


Good questions, in short;

To the first, a whole friggin' lot. . . . .

I make great effort to be sure all possible contingencies are covered since there's just no way to know everything you need to before you actually start working on something and as much research as possible can sure help keep you from going down the wrong rabbit hole.

Just knowing what it is that you're going to have to take into consideration in your planning is important in itself for bigger builds, with significant overclocks, and more than 2 GPUs.

To the second, it depends on how new the case is and how much detail is available about it. . . . . And how radical the mod concept is . . .

The 820 being really new, has only started to get some build logs up with pics and information that can give a builder some idea of what can and can't be done. . . . None in time to be of much assistance for me.

Because of the lack of mod relevant information early on in the release of a new case, it's reasonable to expect more departure from an original plan, as that plan has to be regarded as tentative in the first place.

With builds like this one, where it's virtually uncharted territory, and with a newly released case at that, . . . . It's almost a "keep the vision in mind and solve the engineering challenges sequentially as they present themselves".


----------



## Triniboi82

Hey Darlene I read you're doing three (3) separate loops, is it 1x cpu, 1x gpu & 1x ram/NB/SB ...correct ??


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triniboi82*
> 
> Hey Darlene I read you're doing three (3) separate loops, is it 1x cpu, 1x gpu & 1x ram/NB/SB ...correct ??


No,

Loop #1 is for the CPU, chipset/VRM, & RAM

Loop #2 is for the first 2 GPU's

Loop #3 is for the the second 2 GPU's

The plan at present is:

Loop #1 uses the 30% secondary portion of the lower rad which gets the coolest air drawn in from outside the case and all 12 push-pull fans making it the more efficient of the two rads, so therefore the better choice of which one to set up in a dual circuit configuration.

Loop #2 uses the entire top rad, which because of space above the mobo limitations, only gets 10 of 12 fans, and draws air already in the case, making it less efficient than the lower rad.

Loop #3 uses the 70% primary portion of the lower rad.

I'm putting the lower two GPU's on the 70% portion of the lower rad because they are the ones that are most in contact with airflow from the lower rad's fans, and can receive some level of additional cooling from that. The top two GPU's are the most airflow restricted, so they'll run warmer and more rad will be of more benefit to them.

The option plan is adding another 420 stacked below the front half of the top 840 between the back of the optical drive bays and the mobo for Loop #1, and configuring the lower 840 rad in single circuit mode for Loop #3.

I'll be making that decision once more parts are on hand, the chassis is complete, and I can get a good sense of the aesthetics of each option.

Hope that helps,

Darlene


----------



## Triniboi82

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> No,
> Loop #1 is for the CPU, chipset/VRM, & RAM
> Loop #2 is for the first 2 GPU's
> Loop #3 is for the the second 2 GPU's
> The plan at present is:
> Loop #1 uses the 30% secondary portion of the lower rad which gets the coolest air drawn in from outside the case and all 12 push-pull fans making it the more efficient of the two rads, so therefore the better choice of which one to set up in a dual circuit configuration.
> Loop #2 uses the entire top rad, which because of space above the mobo limitations, only gets 10 of 12 fans, and draws air already in the case, making it less efficient than the lower rad.
> Loop #3 uses the 70% primary portion of the lower rad.
> I'm putting the lower two GPU's on the 70% portion of the lower rad because they are the ones that are most in contact with airflow from the lower rad's fans, and can receive some level of additional cooling from that. The top two GPU's are the most airflow restricted, so they'll run warmer and more rad will be of more benefit to them.
> *The option plan is adding another 420 stacked below the front half of the top 840 between the back of the optical drive bays and the mobo for Loop #1, and configuring the lower 840 rad in single circuit mode for Loop #3.*
> I'll be making that decision once more parts are on hand, the chassis is complete, and I can get a good sense of the aesthetics of each option.
> Hope that helps,
> Darlene






Another 420 sounds good to me







Wouldn't airflow be a bit restrictive if mounted behind the mobo tho? I mean I guess you'll have to cut ventilation into the back panel but I'm trying to see in my mind how it'll fit with fans & the back panel.

Ques: "configuring the lower 840 rad in *single circuit mode* for Loop #3" care to explain pls...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triniboi82*
> 
> Another 420 sounds good to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wouldn't airflow be a bit restrictive if mounted behind the mobo tho? I mean I guess you'll have to cut ventilation into the back panel but I'm trying to see in my mind how it'll fit with fans & the back panel.
> Ques: "configuring the lower 840 rad in *single circuit mode* for Loop #3" care to explain pls...


Nothing will be mounted behind, as in the space between the backside of the mobo and the backside panel.

I think you're misunderstanding something there.

These rads can be configured such that all 21 tubes are working together such that whatever goes in, comes out and flows thru all the tubes. . . . single circuit mode

They can also be configured such that there are 2 seperated groups of tubes, 15 for the main side, and 6 for the secondary side. . . . . Dual circuit mode

It's virtually 2 rads in a single package that shares a fin pack.

That's how I can have 2 loops, #1 and #3 in the same rad.

I could run white color in Loop 1 in the 30% (6 tube) secondary circuit of the lower rad, and red in Loop 3, in the 70% (15 tube) primary circuit in the lower rad, and the colors would never co-mingle, they'd stay totally seperate.

Cooling wise, it's about like having a 560 for loop 3 and a 280 for loop 1.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Little more update;

I disassembled the 3rd case today so I could scarf up the parts of the top and bottom panels that I needed to complete the chassis stretch.

This is the tough and tedious part of modding, a lot of grunt work, and not much to show for it, but it has to be done to have something to build on.

It took a fair bit of cutting and fitting, but the lower chassis is ready to prep and take to the welder.

I drilled and tapped the few holes still needed in the new addition parts so that the front base assembly screws on with all its screws. The rear base assy. already had all its screws match up.

I'll order the next two rads for the top tomorrow, after checking to be sure they're in stock, so I can get the top chassis panel ready for the welder.

The way these rads join up, I want to custom fit each assembly to it's chassis panel to insure that everything aligns right on the money, so I'll have to leave the last cuts on the top panel add-in pieces untill that rad gets here.

Darlene

Here's some pics of the new metal work for the lower chassis panel:


----------



## mrrockwell

Thats one massive rad


----------



## Rayce185

DAMN!!! Now that's impressive!









Subbed, defo!


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Triniboi82*
> 
> Another 420 sounds good to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wouldn't airflow be a bit restrictive if mounted behind the mobo tho? I mean I guess you'll have to cut ventilation into the back panel but I'm trying to see in my mind how it'll fit with fans & the back panel.
> Ques: "configuring the lower 840 rad in *single circuit mode* for Loop #3" care to explain pls...
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing will be mounted behind, as in the space between the backside of the mobo and the backside panel.
> 
> I think you're misunderstanding something there.
> 
> These rads can be configured such that all 21 tubes are working together such that whatever goes in, comes out and flows thru all the tubes. . . . single circuit mode
> 
> They can also be configured such that there are 2 seperated groups of tubes, 15 for the main side, and 6 for the secondary side. . . . . Dual circuit mode
> 
> It's virtually 2 rads in a single package that shares a fin pack.
> 
> That's how I can have 2 loops, #1 and #3 in the same rad.
> 
> I could run white color in Loop 1 in the 30% (6 tube) secondary circuit of the lower rad, and red in Loop 3, in the 70% (15 tube) primary circuit in the lower rad, and the colors would never co-mingle, they'd stay totally seperate.
> 
> Cooling wise, it's about like having a 560 for loop 3 and a 280 for loop 1.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Damn that's a pretty nice feature...i did misunderstand so thanks for clearing it up.


----------



## IT Diva

A little Christmas Update:

Santa said I was a good girl again this year, so he was his wonderfully pervy old self, and I sent him on his way relieved of another Phantom 820 case.

Of course I was counting on a gunmetal one this time, but some elf coughed up a hairball somewhere, and I got another white one, though I'm forcing myself to suffer through it OK.

Anyway, the more exciting part of the update involves making more progress . . . . . .
















As luck would have it, no one has the single circuit 420 copper fin rads I need in stock, PPC's shows backordered, which hopefully means more are coming in.

So rather than have to wait untill I get the rads for the top to make up the top chassis panel, I built up the panel on the top side of the rad that is assembled for the bottom chassis panel.

The top panle is a butt load more work, as it's all flimsier and much less solid than the bottom with some sections being seperate left and right halves.

Long story short; it's exactly the right length, it's straight, it aligns, all the holes line up, and it's ready to tack, prep and weld.

With the top chassis panel mocked up, it seemed like a good time to work on the top plastic cover pieces. . . .

Rewind, there is NO good time for doing that, but it needs to be done, and well, I was off work and hadn't yet received my fair share of abuse for the day, so I worked myself into my best masochistic mood in preparation.

I knew from the start working out the top cover was gonna suck big time.

With better than 2 full case lengths to span, complex multi-part top trim pieces, and a very limited set of workable options, there's just no easy way to get a satisfactory result.

I ended up going with a dual top setup. . . . I think it will be a lot easier to manage as two reasonable length top pieces, than one ginormously long one.

The front portion is a complete top so that all the fan controller and USB openings remain in the original positions.

The rear portion is grafted from two top panels sans the fan controller / USB portions so that it compliments the front top.

I'm pretty happy with how it looks. . . . Actually, I'm pretty impressed with myself.

Once everything is welded up, I'll drill the extra few mounting holes so everything snaps in properly.

Hope you like how it's coming along,

Darlene

A little something from Santa:
Whatta you bet the jolly fat bugger put it on _my_ credit card











The top chassis panel set up:







The top plastic parts:


----------



## KillThePancake

This thing is so full of win!


----------



## barracks510

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillThePancake*
> 
> This thing is so full of win!


Lol. Yes it is. Btw, how do you like those rads?


----------



## Legonut

How many phantoms have you bought now? And i'd be very interested in a m-atx one.


----------



## k.3nny

YEss, Oh baby


----------



## vaporizer

Sub-inator. I'll be back.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Legonut*
> 
> How many phantoms have you bought now? And i'd be very interested in a m-atx one.


I've got 8 phantoms of one flavor or another, plus the 810.

For the m-atx phantom, Phelan's is the build to check out:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1340033/build-log-mini-me-a-phantom-full-tower-resized-to-m-atx-with-rivg-3820-and-7970-watercooled

I just realized I have 4 SFF builds already, so even though I think a Prodigy would be a fun build, more fun than shrinking a phantom anyway, I'll be passing on anything that isn't in the " Go big or Go home " category for a while.

On the other hand, an Asus P8Z77-I mini-itx with a 690 or Devil13 in a very shrunk phantom 410 might seriously kick azz.

Darlene


----------



## Legonut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've got 8 phantoms of one flavor or another, plus the 810.


EIGHT


----------



## Retell

DAMN DARLENE! I just caught up on 85 posts. It's not often I see a build with an NZXT case that I am truly 100% jealous of not owning, but this is it. Hey did those parts make it to you?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Retell*
> 
> DAMN DARLENE! I just caught up on 85 posts. It's not often I see a build with an NZXT case that I am truly 100% jealous of not owning, but this is it. Hey did those parts make it to you?


Wow, . . . Thanks for the compliment,

Drive cages got here yesterday, the last 820 arrived on Christmas eve, although it was white instead of gunmetal. The PSU's also finally got here.

Super tip of the hat to you sir for all your quiet good deeds.
















Guess I'll have to get a pair of Gunmetal ones now . . . .









How's Tuan liking it so far, has he been following?

And on the progress front;

Also ordered the last 2 rads and their fans from FCPU yesterday, I have the single circuit end caps to make them into a single circuit for the top.

Now I have to wrangle a day off work to get these chassis panels tigged.

Darlene


----------



## Bart

I'd like to know how this thread got through 25 pages on a nerd forum without a single marriage proposal.







Amazing work Darlene!!!







Words don't do this build justice. The combination of serious tool work and incredible aesthetic vision is amazing! I love me some candy apple red too.







But you know after seeing it in white with black accents, I really love that look too. What old Star Wars nerd wouldn't like storm trooper colors! Also, bullet trains are merely advanced extensions of locomotives, and I think that fits right in with the advanced look of those cases. Thematically, it all comes together. Love it love it LOVE IT!! Can't wait to see more!


----------



## sinnedone

Sounds like your buttering her up for a marriage proposal.







lol

I cant wait to see this thing finished as well.

One thing though..... you need to weigh it! Tings probably gonna be like 80-100 lbs lol.


----------



## Bart

She should put it on train tracks that run from her house to her workshop.







I could see a woman with her skill set pulling that off. With a remote too, so she could just drive it to her work area when it needs maintenance, just like a real train.


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> She should put it on train tracks that run from her house to her workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could see a woman with her skill set pulling that off. With a remote too, so she could just drive it to her work area when it needs maintenance, just like a real train.


i second this idea!


----------



## IT Diva

WARNING * * * NERD ALERT * * *























While I'm waiting on major stuff to come in, I took advantage of the time to work on some of the electronics and controls I want to have onboard to manage my sytem.

As everyone must know by now, I'm going with a triple loop setup with the Bitspower dual D5 acrylic pump tops with the new PWM D5's.

My switch build has triple 35X's for the internal CPU / mobo loop and I made up a nice PWM controller for it that lets me set the speed manually, or switch it to auto control from the mobo CPU fan header.

I want to have a similar setup for this build, but it needs to be triple channel, with each channel controlling a pair of the D5's.

So as usual, there's nowhere to go buy one, so I designed and made up a pcb to make my own.

Rather than be ordinary and use a knob to set the pump speed like I did in my switch build, I decided on a dual push button interface. Push the top button for each channel and the speed increases, push the lower button and it decreases . . . like the volume on most TVs / remotes.

The nice thing is that the button control board plugs onto the main pcb, so the controller can be used with the new button controls or the old potentiometer with a knob control.

Each channel has a switch to select between manual control, or mobo based control.

I also made up a single channel version to use for preinstallation testing. I want to get some speed versus flow rate numbers, and also see if the flow rate gets better when powered with 24V, versus 12V.

After getting the PWM controller pcb designed, I made up a pcb design to translate the tach signal from fans controlled by an FC9.

The FC9 varies voltage by raising the negative line, as opposed to lowering the positive line. . . . If you try to monitor the RPM of a fan on an FC9, it will only read at max speed, as soon as you slow it down even slightly, you loose the reading.

I learned this building my external cooling module, and designed a circuit to translate the tach signal from +12V referenced, to Gnd referenced, which can then be read by any display.

At the time, I just made it up on a piece of perf-board figuring how many of these things could I possibly ever need , . . . . and then later when I wanted a fan speed display on my switch build which also uses an FC9, I made another one . . again on perfboard . . . like I was really ever going to need yet another . . . .

Well this time, I designed a pcb for it, so it'll be easier each time I need one now. . . . Shoulda done it at the get-go.









Here's some pics:

Here's my switch build where you can see the FC9 at the top, the PWM controls (switch and knob) on each side of the small (aerocool Easywatch) display that displays the pump speed, flowrate, and pump heatsink fan rpm. . . and the Aerocool X-Vision display at the bottom for the rad fans.



Here it is zoomed in a bit:



Here's the tach signal translation board I made when I built the external cooling module:



And here's the one in the switch build:



And a close up on the board, it's mounted on a piece of acrylic which just slides into the bay behind the display:



Here's the original PWM controller for the switch build during testing running two 35X's:



And here's the new tach translation pcb:



Here's the new PWM controller, single channel version, with the push button interface pcb in front:



Here's the triple channel version with the control pcb:



I already have my Digikey order made up
















As far as where everything is going and how I'm setting it up, I ordered two of the X-Vision displays, an FC9, and one of these:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7274/bus-135/Silverstone_Commander_Series_ESA_Certified_525_Controller_-_Black_SST-CMD01B-ESA.html?tl=g34c17s766

I have no idea what it is, but the bay mount housing is perfect for mounting my PWM controller pcb and putting the buttons and auto / manual switches on the front panel. I'll toss whatever comes in it in the misc junk box.

Those 4 items should go nicely in the front optical drive bays.

The X-Visions display 5 RPM's and 5 temps.

The upper one will display the top rad's upper fan and lower fan speeds and the 3 loops pumps speeds from the rpm displays.

The lower one will display the lower rad's top and bottom fan speeds, and the flow rate for each loop from the rpm displays.

The upper one will show water temp in and out of the top rad, while the lower one will show water temp in and out of both loops on the lower, dual circuit, rad. The remaining temp sensors are not yet committed.

It may not seem like much, but being able to come up with one of a kind pcbs and being able to design unique controls really takes time, but I think it really adds a lot of individuality and style to a build.

Darlene


----------



## kgtuning

Holy hell.... awesome! Your skills trump mine for sure.


----------



## Caruban

This is all very cool. I plan on doing something similar (from the custom pcb aspect) to my next build, but I'm a little apprehensive about jumping into it.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The FC9 varies voltage by raising the negative line, as opposed to lowering the positive line. . . . .
> Darlene


Some cars dash lighting is controlled in this way as well.

I like the work your putting into the pcb, shows a big time tinkerer there.


----------



## IT Diva

MOAR RADS & FANS



I'll put these two together as a single circuit 840 tonight or tomorrow to go in the top.

Darlene

I just couldn't wait, lol . . .

Another 840 is born . . .


----------



## Bart

Motherofgod.jpg! This build is sheer geek insanity!!


----------



## Caruban

Thats... a lot of fans...


----------



## barracks510

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caruban*
> 
> Thats... a lot of fans...


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> MOAR RADS & FANS
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll put these two together as a single circuit 840 tonight or tomorrow to go in the top.
> Darlene
> I just couldn't wait, lol . . .
> Another 840 is born . . .


YES MORE RADS!!!. I love it. now get to work!!! JK.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caruban*
> 
> Thats... a lot of fans...


And they'll be going on a lot of rad . . .
















Darlene


----------



## modnoob

How is the static pressure on thoes rads


----------



## Caruban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And they'll be going on a lot of rad . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


This build is so rad...


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caruban*
> 
> This build is so rad...


I knew someone was going to write this.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *modnoob*
> 
> How is the static pressure on thoes rads


The rads are only 8 to 9 fins per inch, so they don't need a lot of static pressure to work at their designed performance level.

The fans are rated just over 1mm H2O at 1500rpm, so they should be an excellent matchup for managable sound levels to perfermance, which can be even more tailored since they are on a controller.

The real "plus" here, and the reason I used these in the first place, is that the fans have clear frames with nearly clear (pale white that looks clear when running) blades.

I really want to have the copper fins as visible with the fans running as possible, and the white leds will show everything in its real color.

Darlene


----------



## k.3nny

Sick <3


----------



## redxmaverick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> She should put it on train tracks that run from her house to her workshop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could see a woman with her skill set pulling that off. With a remote too, so she could just drive it to her work area when it needs maintenance, just like a real train.


HAHA. That's what I also hinted at on how to reimburse herself.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/170#post_18796503

But geez, I hope you have a crane ready to relocate that beast.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redxmaverick*
> 
> HAHA. That's what I also hinted at on how to reimburse herself.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/170#post_18796503
> But geez, I hope you have a crane ready to relocate that beast.


In a way, I'm kinda fond of trains.

As a kid, my folks didn't have a lot, so at Christmas, my grandpop refurbed what the older relatives had outgrown and that gave it a new life and well before recycling was the in-thing.

Anyway, one cousin passed down his Lionel trains, and my dad and granddad made a platform that went up every Christmas for many years.

It wasn't exactly a girly present, but I was short on female relatives, and I learned all about how to power them and set them up, put lights in the little houses, build a water way, and add accessories etc.

Each year I got to add something new.

But that was over 50 years ago, and I've been building things ever since.

Anyway, . . .

I spent the weekend building circuit boards for all the system control stuff, and parts came in today that I need to do some flow rate testing and to see how some other ideas were going to work out, and first thing I open out of thre box, was broken.

First part from FCPU that I ever got that was busted . . been shorted or wrong itemed a few times, but the dual D5 pump top had a chunk of the pump mounting boss busted off.

They sent me a return label within a few minutes of calling them and sending pics, so looks like I have a little delay on the "play with the pump" fun.

Hopefully, I'll be able to put up a big pic update this weekend with all the work I've been doing, that doesn't mean much untill it's all together and let's you see how everything works together.

Here's my poor pumptop:





Darlene


----------



## Bart

Wow, that's some serious breakage! Heck of a lot more than a little nick!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Wow, that's some serious breakage! Heck of a lot more than a little nick!


I'm pretty sure someone dropped it out of the box and it hit a hard floor somewhere. One of the reasons I have capet it the work area under the assembly table, while it's ceramic tile everywhere else, lol.

If you look closely, even one of the port plugs has the edge chipped off leaving ther oring exposed.

It'll be on its way back tomorrow, and they'll ship another as soon as they get confirmation that it's on it's way.

Just to be sure I have one to work with this weekend though, I bought another one, (I actually need 3 total anyway, so I still need to buy 1 more) and it shipped Express Mail already.

Darlene


----------



## mandrix

Darlene, new NZXT Phantom 630 shown off at CES.......









sorry about your pump top.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Darlene, new NZXT Phantom 630 shown off at CES.......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry about your pump top.


Yes, there was considerable discussion on that in the 410 thread I believe it was.

Some nice features and updates, but it's an econo box and has lost the longer than high aspect ratio of the original phantom, and with it, a lot of the appeal, at least to me.

It really looks like they want to market it towards beginner water cooling enthusiasts.

Pricing as I heard was $180, so it's the new 410 to the 820.

Maybe a stretch build would look nice, but that's wayyyy too much work to waste on anything less than a flagship model case.

Actually, it's NZXT's new Hale 90 V2 series, fully modular PSUs, that are worthy of attention.

Darlene


----------



## modnoob

yes i agree that being a first time water cooler in a phantom 820 that this case is targeted for beginners

as for the psu i WANT THEM NOW

as for the stretch as long as it looks good I'm fine and the phantom 820 looks good exept for the mesh

and as for the phantom 410 club we did talk a lot


----------



## Phelan

I love the looks of the 630 except it's height-length ratio as well. Same feelings toward the 820 for that matter.


----------



## McMogg

Hey Darlene, this is an idea I've had for a while, but I don't have access to the tools required.

Basically, a pressure sensor stored inside the loop (in the reservoir, or something) and an arduino board or something similar, and when the pressure drops below a certain amount, it cuts power to the Computer as a whole.
Assuming the pressure would drop if there was a leak, that is.. it might be useful.

I dunno, just a thought.

Nice build anyways


----------



## IT Diva

Early Weekend Update::

A few pages back, I mentioned that I ordered one of these monitoring modules because I thought the enclosure would be near perfect for my control systems.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7274/bus-135/Silverstone_Commander_Series_ESA_Certified_525_Controller_-_Black_SST-CMD01B-ESA.html?tl=g34c17s766

Tunrs out I was spot on with that guess. . . . .

The 5.25" housing is excellent for what I needed, and the pcb that was in it may yield some pcb connectors for my parts bins.

The board itself is otherwise useless, without an Nvidia chipset mobo, and not that great even then, so it's junk, as anticipated.

Then a couple pages back, I showed some pics of the pcb's I designed for my 3 channell PWM controller and some other control and interface systems.

Well,

I've been busy turning them into working modules, and damn, it's been a lot a work, but they all work as planned.









I ran out of sleeving, so I'll go back and sleeve what didn't get sleeved, and in the proper color when i get some more in.

Tomorrow, I expect to do some flow testing and see how my new control center works.

Here's some pics of what I've been working on:

Darlene

Here's the monitoring module I got for the enclosure:



Here it is with the new PWM controller,
The small board on the back is a voltage regulator board to give me 12V and 5V rails from a 24V supply
and the small board across the middle is the push buttons control interface pcb:



A little wider angle so you can see all the cabling:

24V power in,
There's power out to 6 pumps,
Tach signal and PWM signal to 6 pumps,
Connectors to go to mobo headers to send back the tach signal and use the mobo PWM signal if desired,
5V and 12V power out to the flow meter pcb and the displays,
Connectors to the front panel displays for pump RPM:



Here's the front panel, just waiting on the controller enclosure to go in the bottom bay:



Here's the FC9 with the tack signal translation board mounted behind it with wiring out to the displays:



Here's the pcb I made to mount the flow meter electronics modules on.
It has space for up to 4 modules, though I just need 3, one for each loop, but the extra space has a power connector, so it could come in handy.
Power, 5V & 12V, comes in on the single 4 pin connector, and supplies 12V to the 3pin headers, and 5V and 12V to the two 4pin connectors at the back end for the displays to plug into:



Here's a couple more of that pcb and how it fits into the bays:

.



Here's the 24V PSU to run the pumps, flow meters and displays:
I spec'd this one as it has a 5V standby, and can power up and down with a remote set of contacts so that I can have it turn on with the main system via relay, as well as manually with a switch so I can run the pumps without powering up the system.



And finally, the first of three dual D5 pump setups ready to test:


----------



## mandrix

Have you considered using any of the Aquacomputer flow sensors? Martin's testing showed them to be pretty accurate. The internals are all Digmesa high quality.
Though I guess the Koolance would be more plug and play if you are using a display.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Have you considered using any of the Aquacomputer flow sensors? Martin's testing showed them to be pretty accurate. The internals are all Digmesa high quality.
> Though I guess the Koolance would be more plug and play if you are using a display.


I did think about the Aquero, as a matter of fact, but with a triple loop setup, I'd need 3 of them, and seeing as your experience with them has not been exactly a cakewalk, decided that having the simpler, more reliable, more basic setup, that I have gotten to like a lot from my Switch build, made the most sense.

I looked at the Aquacomputer flow sensors, but they pretty much lock you into their controller, or USB connection and software.

Of course, down the road ,anything is possible.

One of the things I have thought about, is having a seperate mini itx computer in the case with a small touch screen panel at the front of the side window. It would be to setup ROG Connect without anything external. The Aquacomputer software could run on that, with the info on the screen, instead of displays.

Darlene


----------



## vaporizer

at one point in my last scratch build, i was going to put one of these in my drive bays for a monitoring display. I trashed the idea because i ran out of room in the width department in the case, but i still dream of it. I don't think room is an issue with your build and i would love to see someone as talented as you to integrate it.

BTW, looking good Darlene. Your is one of my subs that i most look forward to updates.


----------



## Bart

Awesome updates!


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> at one point in my last scratch build, i was going to put one of these in my drive bays for a monitoring display. I trashed the idea because i ran out of room in the width department in the case, but i still dream of it. I don't think room is an issue with your build and i would love to see someone as talented as you to integrate it.
> 
> BTW, looking good Darlene. Your is one of my subs that i most look forward to updates.


I always liked the idea of putting a touch screen version of one of those in, to use for music and whatnot.


----------



## IT Diva

Some new updates with test pics:

So I wanted to try killing several birds with one stone today, that is, test my PWM controller with it's associated boards and 24V PSU setup on real pumps with a res and water flow, as well as to test the concept of boring out the bitspower crystal link fittings to use full diameter 1/2" acrylic tubing.

I was really wanting to see how that would work out, as the additional half mm or so in increased diameter would make a super tight fit with the original sized o rings. . . . If it would fit, that is. . . .

So I bored out a couple fittings, Removed the o rings first, and tapered the end of the acrylic tube to get a start into the o ring on re-assembly, as it's a damn tight fit.

A little hint of crystolube helped a lot. It's impossible to get the o rings out without nicking them a little. Best practice would be to plan on replacing them instead of reinstalling the old ones.

Anyway, it's such a tight fit, I thought maybe that would make up for the abuse to the o rings and set up a test loop with the 400mm res, the dual D5 pumptop and 2 D5's on my controller with 24V supplied.

I was impressed!









Not a drop of leakage even at max power . . . 9400 ml/m or ~ 2.5 gpm

I found I had to set the min duty cycle up a little from where I had it at about 12%, so that the min speed for the pumps would be 1000rpm.

That translates to about 1600 ml/min, or 0.4 gpm, so there's no need to be able to go below 1000 rpm, anyway.

I found that when set much slower than 900 rpm, and they wouldn't start reliably at turn on. The speed turns on at whatever it was set for at last power down, so setting a minimum speed is more precautionary than mandatory.

Flow rate was very impressive as well, with the max at 2.5 gpm, and the flow in the "nice and quiet speed range" at ~1.5gpm at 2800 rpm.

Here's some pics of the test setup on my high end test bench, . . er, . . . I mean my kitchen counter and sink.

Darlene

Here's the pumps with the acrylic tubing plumbed into a mini loop:



Here the controller is set at its minimum speed setting,
(You can read on the display, if you open in a new tab / window and enlarge)
3rd position is flow in ml/min 1500
4th is pump 1 rpm 1000
5th is pump 2 rpm: 1000



Here's the upper end of the "quiet operation range":



And last but not least, max power:
You can reallly notice he water pushing into the res from the left end.


----------



## kgtuning

Oh man I want to run 24 volts, hmm my mcp 655 is rated for it. ugh... Diva your making me think, well more then normal. lol


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Oh man I want to run 24 volts, hmm my mcp 655 is rated for it. ugh... Diva your making me think, well more then normal. lol


Here's the apples to apples comparison between 12V and 24V, and the reason I went with 24 without reservation.

This is the same setup with the pumps plugged into a regular PSU molex.

With the PWM line left unconnected, the pumps run at max speed, which as you can see on the display is 2900 rpm, sometimes they'll make 3000 rpm.

While still respectable at about 1.5 gpm, I'll take 66% more gpm and ~ 1500 more rpm at the touch of a button.

Edit to Add:

Some interesting info from Martin's site led me to retest a little differently, and the results here are incorrect, see my next post for the details.

Martin looks to have finished up his PWM D5 testing and he also did a 12v to 24V comparison, so check his review for lots more info

Darlene


----------



## kgtuning

Thank you for the info! I didn't know it was that much more.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Thank you for the info! I didn't know it was that much more.


I didn't either.

It was way more than I expected for sure.

I'm going to have a look thru Martin's and see if there's anything relating to 12V versus 24V for the D5 there.

Until just recently, the D5's have not had a tach signal lead, so perhaps we've just been running on an errant assumption about how fast they run in a normal 12V system.

I guess realistically, there had to be a reasonable difference, or else Koolance's 12V to 24V stepup controllers would have been not worth the effort to design and build.

Darlene

Edit to Add:

Did some research on Martin's, and found this interesting tidbit of info about the speed with the PWM connector left not connected:

"I expected this pump to operate at 100% when the PWM cable is disconnected (that is how the MCP 35X works), however this pump does not do that. Rather than operate at 100%, it operates closer to 60% when the PWM cable is not in use. This could be good or bad depending on what your noise preference is. I find 60% to be a good balance myself.

Overall, the PWM control is a very wide range and good. It is capable of operating the pump nearly linearly from 800 RPM to 4800 RPM +- to meet a very broad range of speed needs."

So I need to go back and retest 12V with the PWM lead connected.

It should turn out to be much less difference between 12V and 24V operation than in the earlier test.

Additional Add

Retested with 12V *and* PWM control, and results are within about 5% of what I got at 24V. . . . .

So it looks like going to 24V doesn't help all that much, except that it can offload some demand on the system PSU.

Now I'm kind of actually dissappointed.









Darlene

Here's the system running on a regular PSU for 12V to the pumps, and the PWM controller maxed out.

About 4200 rpm


----------



## Retell

The jelly.

I have all of it!

Looking incredible as always.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Retell*
> 
> The jelly.
> 
> I have all of it!
> 
> Looking incredible as always.


Once I get all my control system electronics fabricated, sorted out, and dialed in, I can go back to my blacksmithing (metal fabricating) and get this stretched limo case together and work on the gullwing side window.

I just really wanted to get an idea of how some of the things I have in mind were going to work out, in case I needed to make some design changes.

Darlene


----------



## Figit090

looking awesome, holy fans!


----------



## afropelican

looking gooooooooooooooddddd


----------



## mandrix

Well I guess there is a difference in the D5 pwm controlled and the so called D5 strong, which supposedly does profit from 24V.
But the awesome thing about pwm is being able to control speed better and even run at lower speeds than straight voltage control allows. That's what pushed me toward the MCP35x pumps.
-
But getting back to the Aquaero for a second, everything you've seen me go through was mostly the result of ignorance. If they would publish a comprehensive manual it would help dummies like me that make "assumptions" about what works and what doesn't. (Plus my old brain isn't near as sharp as in younger days, but I can't help that)
But having said that, the newer Aquaero software allows for configuring software controllers that work pretty darn good.
-
If you go the alternate route with a software setup and readout on your monitor instead of independent displays I think you will like it much better. I mean, the whole focus of using a computer is the monitor, not looking at the actual hardware. The fact that you fab the majority of the control mechanisms is fantastic, and surely shows out your knowledge and skills, but if you are truly going all out then don't incorporate a bunch of displays, that's what the monitor is for. IMO.

Can hardly wait to see that gull wing.


----------



## IT Diva

Bet nobody else has one of these yet









Just a little teaser, more to come . . .

I plan to use Red White and Blue Auroras, so I thought maybe a light tube in each res might make it stand out a bit.

A little inginuity and a workshop can be a dangerous combination,

I used crystal link fittings and to to keep the tube centered while in a horizontal position, so it doesn't stress the captive end, I used a plug with an led recess on the free end, and put a small stainless steel pin in the end cap to index it.

Darlene

400 mm Bitspower res:



Here's the end cap with the indexing pin:


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Have you considered using any of the Aquacomputer flow sensors? Martin's testing showed them to be pretty accurate. The internals are all Digmesa high quality.
> Though I guess the Koolance would be more plug and play if you are using a display.
> 
> 
> 
> I did think about the Aquero, as a matter of fact, but with a triple loop setup, I'd need 3 of them, and seeing as your experience with them has not been exactly a cakewalk, decided that having the simpler, more reliable, more basic setup, that I have gotten to like a lot from my Switch build, made the most sense.
> 
> I looked at the Aquacomputer flow sensors, but they pretty much lock you into their controller, or USB connection and software.
> 
> Of course, down the road ,anything is possible.
> 
> One of the things I have thought about, is having a seperate mini itx computer in the case with a small touch screen panel at the front of the side window. It would be to setup ROG Connect without anything external. The Aquacomputer software could run on that, with the info on the screen, instead of displays.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

The Aquaero is a very expandable system, in truth, you'd actually only need 1 full unit, and then you could expand upon that with either the LX model, or Poweradjust modules, or, both. The day I give up my Aquaero is the day I die... or they come out with the Aquaero 6.


----------



## Bart

That reservoir looks amazing!!!


----------



## IT Diva

And I know for sure that no one has one of these yet









Getting the res lit up was the first part of the plan, and pretty straight forward.

Now doing some internal mods / add-ons to keep Mayhems Aurora well agitated took a bit of experimentation.

Here's what I came up with . . .

One of these days I have to buy a real video camera, this little clip just isn't near as frickin' awesome as it looks in person.

Darlene





And a pic:


----------



## socketus

WhOPS !! day it iz ! ... Agitate my Aurora ?!?! puts me in mind of Frank Zappa's Dinah-Moe-Humm lyrics ... sumtin about "kiss my aura, dora ... "

looks great, but I'm not gonna be able to name that tune


----------



## vaporizer

wow, you do things that i wouldn't even think of. soooo impressed. me degusta


----------



## modnoob

how the heck did you make that


----------



## kgtuning

So cool, digging it!


----------



## IT Diva

I swapped the jet tube to the back side and let it shoot towards the front.

I think the effect looks even cooler viewed from this perspective.

Darlene


----------



## wthenshaw

LOVE IT


----------



## Atham

Wait, you are the insane person who did two 820s into one? Nice job


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> Wait, you are the insane person who did two 820s into one? Nice job


That's actually three 820's









But who's counting . . .

Darlene


----------



## Drake.L

I want to ask, how does one carry this?


----------



## t45457523

the mayhem aura coolant is not meant for permanent use. There have been a lot of issues with it settling in tubing and water blocks and radiators. Im not sure keeping it well agitated in the reservoir will make sure it doesnt settle. And if its not running 24/7 it is going to settle in the tubing. Have you thought of a fix for this?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t45457523*
> 
> the mayhem aura coolant is not meant for permanent use. There have been a lot of issues with it settling in tubing and water blocks and radiators. Im not sure keeping it well agitated in the reservoir will make sure it doesnt settle. And if its not running 24/7 it is going to settle in the tubing. Have you thought of a fix for this?


Lots of pumping power with high flow rates and daily use should mitigate any serious settling isssues.

Once the novelty wears off and I've got all the pics I want, I could go to pastels or something else if the Aurora gets to be too much of a pain.

The big bright resevoirs are kind of a focal point, so that's where I want it to look best.

Not sure how Aurora looks in acrylic tubing, but I'll be finding out.

Darlene


----------



## mandrix

Neat! Is that one long piece of acrylic tube in the center?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Neat! Is that one long piece of acrylic tube in the center?


Yes,

It's one piece of acrylic tube with a male crystal link fitting at the captive end (left side in the pic) which screws into the endcap, and a female crystal linl fitting with a plug with an LED recess on the free end, (right side).

The pic on the previous page (post 295) shows the locating pin I put in the free end's end cap to support the free end of the tube, (mates with the led recess) so as not to stress the o-ring seal of the captive end fitting.

To get the ccfl tube, I carefully took apart an assembled one, and put just the lamp in my tube.

Darlene


----------



## k.3nny

I like the reservoir







!

Stil lurking around and drool on the stuff u have







!


----------



## IT Diva

Just a wee update::

I finished up the last of the custom control electronics PCBs.

This one piggybacks the flow meters board, and the relays on the left side enable me to manually turn on just the auxilliary 12V or 24V PSUs without having to power up the system.

This is important, as the 24V runs all the pump setup and I can leak test without having power to the mobo. . . and the gullwing side window runs from the 12V psu and lets me open the side window without having to power up the mobo, really important if I have some problem with the system psu, or a leak and don't want to risk additional damage by powering the system up just open the side window.

The relays also insure that both the 12V and 24V psu's automatically come on when the system is powered on normally, along with the secondary PSU for GPU 2, 3, & 4.

The relays on the right side control power to the linear actuator(s) for the side window. It lets me use a rocker switch or magnetic reed switches to raise and lower the window.

I just need to get some threaded standoffs to make it look a little cleaner.

Darlene


----------



## barracks510

According to Laing Thermotech, the D5 Strong pump is the best pump for 24V. The D5 Vario has operating voltages of 8 to 14 V. I wouldn't be surprised if you managed 24V on a Vario because they are basically the same pump. But, to be safe, I would not try to get 24 V on a D5 Vario for 24/7 usage.

My 2 cents.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barracks510*
> 
> According to Laing Thermotech, the D5 Strong pump is the best pump for 24V. The D5 Vario has operating voltages of 8 to 14 V. I wouldn't be surprised if you managed 24V on a Vario because they are basically the same pump. But, to be safe, I would not try to get 24 V on a D5 Vario for 24/7 usage.
> 
> My 2 cents.


This is the PWM version, not the Vario.

It is rated to 24V, and has a small benefit at that level, as verified by Martin's testing and review, though unless there's an additional need to have it powered from a seperate power supply, is not enough advantage by itself to set it up that way.

I want / need to be able to run the loops, leak tests etc. without powering up the mobo, so I do have that additional need for a seperate power supply dedicated to the pumps, so in that case, I'll go for the however small advantage, and use the 24V supply.

The cost is the same whether 12V or 24V:
24Volt : http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2094881_-1
12Volt: http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2094872_-1

It would be nice if it gave as much "extra" at 24V as the D5 S version, but it's not quite there.

Here's Martin's testing on it:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/12/25/swiftech-mcp-655-pwm-drive-pump-review/

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Just a little update:

I got the top chassis panel and the lower chassis panel prepped, jigged, and ready to go to the welders this week.

It will be nice to get back to doing updates where you can really see something that looks new from the last update pics.

I also wanted to do some testing with the acrylic tubing and the dual D5 pump setup to see if I was going to have any joint failure or leak issues.

I also wanted to see if going from 1/2" ID tubing from the res to the pump inlet to 3/8" ID acrylic tube was going to hurt the flow rate.

Fortunately there was no drop in flow rate, and nothing leaked or blew apart.
















I was a bit surprised that nothing leaked, as the acrylic tube fittings have been on and off a number of times, and the o rings were abused when they were removed to bore the fittings to full 1/2" . . and then put back.

I ordered the next big bunch of water cooling gear Friday, res's, pumps, mod-kits, flow meters, as well as sleeving, connectors & pins, and fittings to do the res mods on the next 2 res's, so progress should be steady.

Darlene


----------



## WaitWhat

I really really really want that reservoir


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> I really really really want that reservoir


I can't wait to see what all three of them look like . .

I also ordered some aurora red, to see how it looks with the res mods.

Much easier now to experiment, and change plans if necessary, than once everything is in place.

Darlene


----------



## WaitWhat

were they hard to make?

Yeah it's all looking really good, kudos to you

This is the thread I look forward to most when I check subs


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> *were they hard to make?*
> 
> Yeah it's all looking really good, kudos to you
> 
> This is the thread I look forward to most when I check subs


The first one is always harder than the ones that follow, but things went exactly as expected for the light tube mod, but it would have been nicer and easier if the res was about 5mm larger in diameter when it came to adding the jet tube.

The Bitspower res's, water tanks as they call them, lend themselves to these mods because they have 3 connections (triangularly layed out) on one end, and a single center connection at the other.

All the connections are tapped all the way thru the caps, so you can screw fittings on from inside and outside.

To do the light mod, you need 4 fittings:

1) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10741/ex-tub-666/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Silver_Shining_BP-WTP-C47.html
1) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12746/ex-tub-816/Bitspower_G14_Silver_Shining_Multi-Link_Adapter_BP-WTP-C68.html
2) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6943/ex-tub-167/Bitspower_Lighted_Crystal_LED_G14_Plug_without_LED_BP-ACSTI-BK.html

An appropriate length of acrylic tube, 1/2" OD by 3/8" or 8mm ID.

1) 6-32 stainless steel screw . . . length isn't critical, but an allen head about 2" long works fine as you need to cut all but 1/4" to 5/16" of the threads off, and all but 1/4" to 5/16" of the unthreaded part off.

And finally, a ccfl lamp of the appropriate length.

Use the G1/4 male threaded multi link fitting on the inside of the single hole cap, and the female threaded multi link fitting on the other end of the tube, with one of the LED caps securing the female G1/4 end.

Cut your tubing to just barely fit between the res's endcaps when they are screwed on, and with both fittings securely on the tubing. about 1/16" gap is fine

Once you have your tube assembly fabricated, you need to drill and tap the 3 connection end cap, *right in the center, on the INSIDE*
Drill about 3/4 of the way thru, *NOT all the way thru* . . . . tap the hole, and cut your 6-32 screw as described, and screw it into the end cap.
Use the pic in post 295 to get a detailed look.

That's your support for the free end of the light tube so that it can't be moved about by turbulence, and cause it to leak.

It's a good idea to assemble everything and leak test now, before you put a lamp in the tube.

I got my ccfl lamps by taking some of these apart: Pick a size that's appropriate for your res.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10445/lit-206/Logisys_15_Cold_Cathode_Replacement_Tube_-_White.html?tl=g6c443s1146#blank

Once you get it safely apart, you'll need to either remove the connector, or have bought pins, in which case you could cut the connector off and not have to be so careful about removing the pins. CCFL pins are wicked azz hard to get out without destroying them. plan ahead

Now take the second led cap and drill the led hole the rest of the way thru.
Feed the ccfl lamp wires thru the cap and reinstall the connector.

If your newly installed light tube has passed the leak test, you can put in the lamp and cap, and power it up.

Refer to K.3nny 's posts to find his little tutorial on using acrylic tubing.

It will be easier to slightly reduce the tubing OD on each end as he suggests, to fit the Bitspower multi link fittings without modifying them.

There ya go, easy as pie . .

Darlene


----------



## WaitWhat

Thankyou for typing that out, will be really helpful when I can get around to doing it


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> Thankyou for typing that out, will be really helpful when I can get around to doing it


No Problemo,

You may not be the only one who would like to do that.

It'll work on pretty much any size res, with either horizontal, or the more normal, verticle mounting position.

Darlene


----------



## Captain_cannonfodder

Subbed.


----------



## ameigh710

What are you planning on doing with this? I am in complete awe. I would love to do something so extravagant. How many chips? How many video cards? Any estimated benchmarks? Or is this just for fun?







either way I'm subbed and very interested!!!


----------



## IT Diva

Wooooo . . . . . . Hooooooo

Back from the welding shop:

I took a vacation day so I could take this naughty girl to my tig guy, and I gotta say that for the time we worked and the perfect results we got, it's been about the best $100 I've spent so far.

I was really surprised, as that's about a third to half of what I expected based on the time we spent and the usual shop rate.

Anyway, I'll wait untill the weekend to dress the welds and clean things up a bit, but I just had to assemble the chassis and put in the rads to get an idea what I might want to do before I disassemble it to dress the welds and get some paint on the bare spots. I'll mark where the top chassis panel needs to be drilled for the plastic top to fit, and I need to relieve the top plastics for one of the top fans while I'm at it.

I was planning to put some aluminum angle along the rads to add some stiffening, but it's not going to be necessary, this sucker is rock solid and it's only got a few screws barely snug.

The boxed shape that NZXT uses along the edges of the top and bottom panels is incredibly strong, even lengthed out like this one is.

Everything just fits like a glove.

There's only 4 fans on the underside of the top rad, as there's not enough clearance above the motherboard, even for thin fans, but with 10 out of 12 fans, I doubt I'll be seriously conpromised.

I also have a thin, 20mm fan available for the rear most fan on the lower rad, in case I have a clearance issue with the 4th GPU.

Thought I'd share my excitement:

Darlene


----------



## Pidoma

Oh my case. It's soooo stretched!
SUBBED!


----------



## WaitWhat

Woah Darlene, that looks amazing


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

That case with the rads and fans installed looks awesome!

I love the reservoir as well. The lighting in that is amazing. How noisy is it with the water splashing around in it?

This is going to be one build for the books. Only thing is ... do you have a desk DEEP enough to hold it?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaitWhat*
> 
> Woah Darlene, that looks amazing


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> That case with the rads and fans installed looks awesome!
> 
> I love the reservoir as well. The lighting in that is amazing. How noisy is it with the water splashing around in it?
> 
> This is going to be one build for the books. Only thing is ... do you have a desk DEEP enough to hold it?


Thanks guys,

Actually, the res is pretty quiet, all things considered, and quieter yet with the flow slacked off some. That's a bit over 2.5 gpm in the pics.

The water follows the curvature of the tube, so it's not so much like a waterfall.

I doubt I'll hear it over that many fans, even with them turned down.

For a build like this, I just might have to add a room, lol.

Darlene


----------



## Retell

*Edited


----------



## Nvidia-Brownies

Wow that looks awesome!


----------



## PCModderMike

Oh my glob....that thing is massive.








Great progress so far...I was really behind!


----------



## thejester52

WOW what a stretched case







put some wheels on it and you have a limo








can't wait to see the end result of this mammoth build


----------



## X-Nine

Darlene,

Don't let comments from here or elsewhere discourage you. Keep up the good work and complete your build, if nothing else, to piss off the people who would put it down.


----------



## everlast4291987

enter for Mod Of The Month when its finished. we would all vote for you


----------



## mandrix

I guess instead of castors on the case, it will be wheels on the table, lol.

Sounds like you came out super good price-wise on the TIG welding. Way back when I worked in a machine shop (80's) TIG welding was about 25-30$ per hour. I can only imagine how much it is these days. I used to TIG a lot of aluminum motorcycle parts for a local racing enthusiast, I really enjoyed it except for the occasional "sunburn" from long sessions.

Looking great Darlene, will be looking forward to your future progress.


----------



## f0rteOC

Submit it to CPU magazine for their featured mod of the month, you could probably make it in!
Keep up the great work!


----------



## giganews35

I would so make this my folding rig.


----------



## Nightz2k

Just now seen this, looks amazing so far.









Subbed!


----------



## KillThePancake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*


Holy...Friggin'....Crap.


----------



## Bart

The English language is nowhere near adequate enough to express how incredible this build is. I am awestruck, not only at seeing the progress but knowing your plans (ie the "lambo" side door) and realizing you have the vision and skill to pull this off. Incredible work Darlene!!


----------



## kgtuning

looks great!


----------



## IT Diva

WOW, Guys, THANKS !!!

Thank you all so much for all your support, encouragement, and collective vote of confidence.

From a modder's perspective, the excitement and satisfaction from seeing this aggresive a project coming together like this just so incredibly rewarding.

Thanks everyone, the party's just getting good.

Darlene


----------



## jiyang1018

It reminds me this:


If you can't remember, watch this:


----------



## Phelan

I have 3 words for this build:

WOW.


----------



## Scout Lukas

love this idea


----------



## IT Diva

Hey guys,

Let me just leak out this little kicker here. . .

Got a couple new 630's headed this way that I'll be building concurrently with the stretch build.

That way, I can do some comparisons and contrasts from a modder's perspective as I work between the two case types and hopefully, bring a little Diva Vision to the more mainstream & affordable 630.

NZXT Rocks!!

Darlene


----------



## Caruban

Would you be willing to post a picture with the top and bottom plastic removed?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caruban*
> 
> Would you be willing to post a picture with the top and bottom plastic removed?


So you can see how the sheet metal is pieced together, or a different detail?

I'll be taking it apart this weekend to fit the top plastic locator / retention pin holes and a few other things, so I'll grab some pics as I go.

I need to dress all the welds, so I'll have it totally apart to do that and I can get pics of both sides of the top and bottom panels if you want.

Darlene


----------



## Captain_cannonfodder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Wooooo . . . . . . Hooooooo
> 
> [


Not trying to be a downer, but is that back case supposed to be sagging? Or is that because of the camera angle?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain_cannonfodder*
> 
> Not trying to be a downer, but is that back case supposed to be sagging? Or is that because of the camera angle?


It's just an optical illusion from the dark area of the weld and the top plastics sitting loosly on the top.

We worked hard to correct all the little warpages that typically occur when welding sheet metal and when you lay a straight edge to it, it's straight.

Darlene


----------



## X-Nine

I had to ban a few doucebags off the FB page. Everyone is a critic, even those who couldn't mod their way out of a paper bag.

Can't wait for more details to emerge on this. I think the vision is starting to come together.


----------



## Caruban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> So you can see how the sheet metal is pieced together, or a different detail?


Right now, the way the plastic sits, it looks too much like "2 separate cases sitting end to end" to me. I think the detail that's killing me is the fact that the plastic is still 2 separate pieces and not yet integrated in any way. I'm hoping that without them, the case looks more like a single entity.

Even If I don't end up liking the aesthetics, the case is still very technologically impressive and well crafted, and you have reason to be proud of it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I had to ban a few doucebags off the FB page. Everyone is a critic, even those who couldn't mod their way out of a paper bag.


Like.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caruban*
> 
> Right now, the way the plastic sits, it looks too much like "2 separate cases sitting end to end" to me. I think the detail that's killing me is the fact that the plastic is still 2 separate pieces and not yet integrated in any way. I'm hoping that without them, the case looks more like a single entity.
> 
> Even If I don't end up liking the aesthetics, the case is still very technologically impressive and well crafted, and you have reason to be proud of it.
> Like.


As it sits, the top plastics, while actually comprised of 3 parts, does have an actual "end to end" butt joint between the front portion which is a complete top and the rear portion which is the grafting of two tops into one., since it's the sizable longer half, without any fan controller / USB openings.

Once I have all the top parts to where they snap down into mounting holes like they originally would, I'll be able to work in a "bridge" where the butt connection is so that the 2 sections look relatively contiguous.

I'm anticipating using a piece of left over top panel mesh, but may have to come up with something more inventive.

That join area is right over a fan, so I don't want to have anything too solid blocking the airflow out.

Darlene


----------



## vaporizer

Darlene, you the man(woman). I am so looking forward to your updates.


----------



## Shiromar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I had to ban a few doucebags off the FB page. Everyone is a critic, even those who couldn't mod their way out of a paper bag.
> 
> Can't wait for more details to emerge on this. I think the vision is starting to come together.


Agreed. I've been trying to answer a lot of the questions people are asking, but some people will never understand modders.


----------



## sinnedone

eh.. social media always seems to bring out the worst in people. Web forums are a little less likely to break out in offensive comments.(actively moderated anyway) Thats why I stay off facebook etc. Unfortunatly that means I cant see these contests etc cause everyone wants you to "LIKE" the page before your allowed to see.









IT Diva... Keep it up girl. The real modders know what your doing and its great. Those who dont understand probably wont unless theyre into tinkering with things.


----------



## IT Diva

Here's a couple quick shots with the top plastics removed:

The actual chassis length is 44 3/8", not counting the front plastic panel, so it's a few inches more than 2 full chassis.

The mobo trays are in their original positions, that is they use the original screw holes and attach as they did when stock.

I'll be cutting off about the last inch of the front one, to get rid of the holes that the original slot covers anchored in, and then using part of the third tray to fill in between them making a full lenght mobo tray.

Also, with better light and the plastics off, you can see that the top chassis panel is straight and flat.

Darlene


----------



## Pidoma

Looks amazing with the top off! I love it. Great idea and great job on this so far. I can not wait to see more!


----------



## modnoob

So I heard you like phantoms


----------



## modnoob

Double post


----------



## barracks510

Have you considered a 90 degree mobo rotation? I think it would look better.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barracks510*
> 
> Have you considered a 90 degree mobo rotation? I think it would look better.


Yes I have, . . .

For the full 10 nanoseconds that it took for my brain to bring up an image of a Silverstone.

I'm still not over the night terrors it caused, even after all these months. . . .

You can make an argument for a rotated, (cables up) mobo for one specific installation criteria, and that's it.

If you have the pc located on the floor, and need cables to reach up to the desktop area, especially with multi monitor setups requiring longer cable runs, top connections certainly facilitate that, as well as increasing their accessability.

With the pc at desktop level, having cables spawning out of the top and dribbling down, can't look like anything but shiiiite, and it would kill off good usable rad space in my setup.

I edited out the original last part of this post as given additional information, I just don't think it was applicable in this case.

Darlene


----------



## Wibble360

^ harsh. He was only voicing an opinion which you must be inviting by starting this thread in the first place...

Case looks good though, nice that you've got the breathing space for so much more radiator length. Will be interested to see how the rest of the space is used!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wibble360*
> 
> ^ harsh. He was only voicing an opinion which you must be inviting by starting this thread in the first place...
> 
> Case looks good though, nice that you've got the breathing space for so much more radiator length. Will be interested to see how the rest of the space is used!


In all fairness, given his previous posts in this thread and some others, (I went and looked at his postings listing) it's not an out of line reply. His questions / remarks are more than a bit trollish sounding.

*Now the game changer here, is that he's a 12 year old seventh grader, and given that, he's well ahead of most other 12 y.o. seventh graders as he's working diligently on his own project with a very limited budget.*

In light of that, what comes off as trollish, is more likely youthfull exuberance, and that I can endorse more than decry.

There's a number of youngsters here on OCN, not even old enough to drive, with decently done builds to the credit. They are the future of our hobby.

Barracks510, anytime you have a question, go ahead and ask it, and I'll do my best to answer in an understanding way.

Good luck dude, stay with your build.

Anyone else wanting to visit his buildlog and offer a pat on the back for wanting to mod at 12 years old, here it is:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1337993/project-arc

Darlene


----------



## SneakyBushNinja

I like it!! Almost looks like you won't have room for the modular power supply cables though. Look forward to seeing what it all looks like when it's done.


----------



## Iceandele

Great Mod! Maybe I missed this but, where does the second power supply go? and what are you going to do with the empty area in the middle?


----------



## Caruban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*


That's incredible and everything I was hoping it would be.


----------



## trust-no-1

You won an award









Popped up on my news feed this morning. Congratulations


----------



## bread

haha whoa was not expecting this when i clicked on this thread







subbed and cant wait for more


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceandele*
> 
> Great Mod! Maybe I missed this but, where does the second power supply go? and what are you going to do with the empty area in the middle?


Below the optical bays, mounted with the same plastic sliders that the switch 810 uses for the HDD cages:





As far as the big open space in the middle, it should be well filled with 3 of these 400mm resevoirs and 3 of these dual D5 pump setups:









Which actually, looks like it's going to be a tight squeeze.

Darlene


----------



## f0rteOC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Below the optical bays, mounted with the same plastic sliders that the switch 810 uses for the HDD cages:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as the big open space in the middle, it should be well filled with 3 of these 400mm resevoirs and 3 of these dual D5 pump setups:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which actually, looks like it's going to be a tight squeeze.
> 
> Darlene


Love the second PSU mounted on the front, and the pumps look absolutely great!


----------



## IT Diva

Not much of a Weekend Update this week,

Opted for a kinda lazy weekend, since I had to go into work for a while last night, and I need to rest up for the 630's when they get here, lol.









I did get to play with the red Mayhem's Aurora a little bit though,

It actually looks way cooler than my el-cheapo video makes it seem. The camera makes it rather orangey, because of the internal CCFL in the res, but it looks bright scarlet red to the eye.

It also has a nicer, more pronounced, lazy aurora effect, at lower pump speeds, and tends to foam at really high speeds, although that dissipates when slowed back down for a while. The res creates a unique effect at the intermediate pump speeds.

I mixed according to the directions, but I may enrichen the mix a bit to see how that effects it.

I'd like to see it a bit more of bold red when the CCFL is on.

Darlene

Here's a couple little videos:

If you watch the display, you can see as I increment the pumps speeds, (2 readings on the right) up from the 1000 rpm minimum to max ~4500, and then back down again.

The center reading is the flow rate in ml/m.

With the internal CCFL in on, it wreaks havok with the camera getting the red to show as red, it looks real orangey, although it's scarlet red to the eye.





Here it is with the CCFL turned off, the camera gets the color a lot more accurately, and it looks like Aurora usually looks: . . though you loose the effect that the light accentuates at the more intermediate to higher pump speeds





And a regular pic that gets the color fairly close, although still a bit too orangey, to what the eye sees with the CCFL on:


----------



## Teejay187

Looks like molten lava







One of the coolest reservoirs I have seen!


----------



## modnoob

Coolest Res I have ever seen
What do you work as if you don't mind me asking
More cases you should be a nzxt rep


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *modnoob*
> 
> Coolest Res I have ever seen
> What do you work as if you don't mind me asking
> More cases you should be a nzxt rep


I'm the Slots Department manager at a casino.

I love what I do. . . . Wouldn't want to trade jobs with anybody

It's exciting, fast paced, and everyday brings something new, but it can be pretty high stress, working on custom stuff, computers and rebreathers, is my stress buster.

Darlene


----------



## modnoob

so thats how you can afford this stuff sound like a nice job
and good luck on the 630
I'm starting a new build log as soon as i get confirmation on items
how many nzxt cases two you own

1 410
3 phantoms
3 phantom 820s now one big one
1 switch 810
?? 630s

so you have a ton
wow you are a very busy person in the computer industry


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *modnoob*
> 
> so thats how you can afford this stuff sound like a nice job
> and good luck on the 630
> I'm starting a new build log as soon as i get confirmation on items
> how many nzxt cases two you own
> 
> 1 410
> 3 phantoms
> 3 phantom 820s now one big one
> 1 switch 810
> ?? 630s
> 
> so you have a ton
> wow you are a very busy person in the computer industry


I'm expecting 2 of the new 630's, and there's 4 of the 820's.

The last, (fourth) 820 was supposed to be a gunmetal one, with the plan to take some of the white parts that I didn't use in the stretch, plus another white plastic top panel, to do a mix 'n match build, but they sent me another white one, so that plan got passed on to the 630's while I decide what to do with the white 820. . . . maybe something simple and clean like a reverse atx mod. . . . . ooops, wait, that's not at all so simple with an 820, gotta do some serious planning now.

The idea of Mix 'n Match builds would work great for a couple buddies wanting to do unique builds.

Each gets a different color of the same series case, (I personally think white and gunmetal are the most complimentary) and then swap the plastic trim parts and interior drive cages or whatever they decide looks nicest.

Doing one as a reverse atx would complete the compliment.

Darlene


----------



## modnoob

seem nice just keep doing what you do love your enthusiasm for the hobby


----------



## NewHighScore

Amazing work Diva! I surely hope NZXT has sponsored you by now. You are the #1 NZXT modder/collector


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Amazing work Diva! I surely hope NZXT has sponsored you by now. You are the #1 NZXT modder/collector


Thank you for the very kind words.

Yes, They seem to like my ideas and my work . . .

The 630's are from NZXT, so when they arrive, I'll be putting that build log in the sponsored build logs section, although there will still be significant crossover between those builds and this one.

One of the plusses of running the builds concurrently is that I can more easily compare and contrast working with each case, and what each may better lend itself to.

Darlene


----------



## overpower

are you sure that 750w will be ok for the system? ^^


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *overpower*
> 
> are you sure that 750w will be ok for the system? ^^


Darlene has put in two power supplies


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *overpower*
> 
> are you sure that 750w will be ok for the system? ^^


That question's been answered several times already, but for the new folks:

I've mentioned a few times throughout the buildlog, that there are two main PSU's.

The 750W at the rear runs the mobo, CPU, case lighting, case fans, and 1 GPU.

The 1000W under the optical drive bays: http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/370#post_19147212

Runs the remaining 3 GPU's.

There are two more smaller (300W) dedicated power supplies, one is 12V and the other is 24V.

The 12v is for the rad fans and linear actuators for the gullwing side window panel, and the 24V is for the six D5 pumps.

Overall, I have wayyy more PSU reserve than needed with the addition of the seperate 300 watters, but I thought it important to be able to run the loops to leak test etc and operate the side window panel without powering up the main system and mobo.

In normal operation, all the PSU's turn on automatically when the system is powered up, but the dedicated 12V and 24V supplies can be manually powered on individually and exclusively of the system PSU's.

Darlene


----------



## Iceandele

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*










Pretty Colors


----------



## SneakyBushNinja

I love that res and color combo! This is going to turn out great.


----------



## IT Diva

Some more new stuff is starting to come in.

The next two Bitspower 400 mm res's got here, as well as the next 2 dual D5 pump tops and 4 of the PWM D5's.

While those are the main attractions, more multi link fittings came so that I can make the same res mods to these two, as I did to the first one.

I thought I'd walk you all thru the light tube mod, so that you could do it for yourself if you wanted.

It's not too hard, but it's water and high voltage electricity, so take your time and test before you put a CCFL tube in and turn it on.

I'll be walking you all thru the "jet tube" mod soon.

Essentially, I'll be putting a 1/2" OD acrylic tube down the center of the res, using a multi link w/ male thread at the end with the single centered G1/4 threaded end cap, and a female threaded multi link with a plug made to hold an LED at the end with the tri ported end cap. The recess for the LED is important.

My resevoirs are the 400mm ones, that I'm planning to set up in a horizontal position, but this mod would work just as well with vertical resevoirs, or shorter ones.

Make the tube between 24 mm and 25 mm shorter than the nominal length of the res. Mine are 375 mm to fit the 400 mm res. A 250 res would use a 225 mm tube length.

Using a plug in the multi link at the end of the light tube that has a recess for an LED is important because there is a locating pin installed into the center of the tri-ported end cap to support the free end of the light tube.

I use a short piece of 6-32 stainless steel cut from a socket head cap screw for the locating pin that screws into the drilled and tapped end cap.

To give an idea to the newcomers, of what it looks like, here's a pic of the first of the three with just distilled water:



And here it is with Mayhems Aurora, and the additional "Jet Tube" mod in testing:



Now there's a couple ways to use Bitspower multi link fittings with 1/2" acrylic tube:

The usual way is to use a rotary tool and sanding drum, and to slightly reduce the OD of the tube untill it fits in the fitting.

I opted for my own method, that is a LOT tighter and Much less likely to blowout or leak, but it takes longer, and requires a drill press and vise, and a bench belt sander helps a lot.

I bore the fittings out to accept the 1/2" tubing while keeping the original o rings, which makes for a fit like a watermellon in a canary's butt.

I then have to bevel and polish the acrylic tube ends to be able to force them back in the fittings so the o rings hold the tube captive.

Boring the fittings can be done on a drill press with a good setup. I found that doing it in 3 incremental steps works best with a minimal amout of de-burring of the o ring grooves required. Start with 15/32", then 31/64", and finally, 1/2". Be sure to use fresh sharp drills for best results.

I put some extensions in my drill press vise to get the fittings in position, and it allows for swappping out each one as it's drilled for the next one. By using an additional male to male, I can swap to the female threaded multilinks without changing my setup.

Here's my setup drilling out the multi links:



Here they are freshly drilled, but haven't had the grooves deburred yet:



Here's all the parts layed out:



Close up of the end caps and multi links with the grooves deburred, but no o rings installed yet, and the locating pins in the tri ported end caps:



Tube end bevelled and polished to be able to get it into the fitting:



Here's the o rings reinstalled back into the multi link fittings:



Partially assembled:



Fully assembled with CCFL in the tube:



And finally, with the CCFLs on, and with the pumps that go with them:





Hope you like my mod, and are encouraged to try it for yourself,

Darlene


----------



## Teejay187

That is just pure genius! Great finish!


----------



## ginger_nuts

I love the finished product.

Looks very neat







Great work


----------



## IT Diva

Here's the how to for the "Jet Tube" mod:

While the "light tube" mod is applicable to almost any size res, in either horizontal or vertical position, the Jet Tube mod only makes sense for larger resevoirs layed horizontally, but if you have the res set up as a focal point of your build, then this mod will make it awesomely unique, especially when done along with the light tube mod.

Similar to the light tube mod, this mod runs a length of 1/2" acrylic tube, this time with nine 1/8" diameter holes drilled in thru one side, from one end of the res to the other with the loop return connected to it at the tri-port end cap and the other end plugged with short lengths of 3/8" diameter acrylic rod.

The reason behind using nine 1/8" diameter holes is that cumulatively, they have exactly the same cross sectional area as the 3/8" ID of the acrylic tube.

This is what it looks like in operation on the first of the three Bitspower 400mm resevoirs:



Now let's mod the next two:

Since I have already bored the multi link fittings to accept the 1/2" acrylic tube in the light tube mod, we'll pick up from there.

It would be perfect if the reseviors were about 5mm larger in diameter, but they aren't, so I have to take some material off the edge of the fitting that screws into the inside of the end cap so it fits inside the ID of the main res tube.

I also have to take a little off the opposite side of the fitting to gain a bit of needed clearance for the light tube's end fitting.

Here you can see one fitting belt sanded to fit inside the main tube's ID, (right) and the second one marked for sanding (left):



Here's the inside edge cut to clear the light tube's fitting:
You can see a bit of the O ring poking out where the fitting screws into the end cap, but since it's inside the res, even if it leaks, it's not an issue.



Here's the setup to drill the jet tube . . . Check twice and drill once gives the best results:



And to keep the tube rotation from becoming a problem, stick a drill in the first hole to use to align each succeeding hole:



Here are the new tubes drilled and ready to assemble:



Here's the res's with the new jet tubes assembled:



And last, but not least, with the light tubes lit up:



Hope you guys like this mod too,

Darlene


----------



## Alastair

Hey Darlene.
Just had to say just WOW... I've been into computers since I was 4 (now 19) and have always been known in my circle of friends as being a bit of a slavedriver to my pc! (Overclocking... MOAR POWER!!!) Now I have never been much for modding myself I never really had the patience for it. (A cut here and there to get a fan to fit, that sort of thing) I prefer playing on my PC! But I just have to say what you have done... what you are still doing... is just purely AMAZING! Your skill set is just awe inspiring. Cutting, welding, planning and organisation, working with electronics and PCB's, I mean its a wonder to me that you haven't built a giant 6 legged Phantom like robot with lasers and stuff to help you take over the world!!! (IMA CHARGIN MY LAZER!!!) I'll be getting an 820 soon, but it will be staying pretty much as is! I've read your log from start to finish and I just can't ( STILL can't) wrap my head around it! Well done keep going (No matter what the nay sayers say) and I will be keeping an eye on this one!























Regards Alastair (S1D) Stedman
(Let the madness continue)


----------



## IT Diva

Just a little work on the chassis this weekend.;

Fitted the top plastic parts so they sit flush on the metal top panel.

The 820 top is as challenging as it gets for piecing together several individual ones into a longer one.

Each top is made up of several individual parts, with angles and shapes slightly different between the right and left sides.

It might be easier if it was just trying to artfully join the plastic panels without regard to any other considerations,

but the overriding factor here, is that the rad has to fit, and that dictates where bits of top metal panel start and stop, and hence how the plastics get divided up.

I'll be able to do a bit more tweaking once the welds are all ground smooth, but unless I'm up for a major bondo reconstruction, this is about as good as it's going to get.

Once everything else is done, I'll revisit whether or not to work on a totally custom, (or nearly so) top.

Darlene


----------



## Caruban

I'm not sure how easy this would be to do, but I think it would be neat to turn the middle two mesh portions into a single mesh piece.

I'm sure you already have other plans for how to blend that that will look equally awesome.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caruban*
> 
> *I'm not sure how easy this would be to do,* but I think it would be neat to turn the middle two mesh portions into a single mesh piece.
> 
> I'm sure you already have other plans for how to blend that that will look equally awesome.


Virtually impossible, short of redesigning an entire new top assembly.

About the only option would be to add a piece of mesh over the "gap" to more visually tie the two sections together, but it really seems like a ghetto way to do something that I'm not convinced yet that needs to be done.

What confounds the task of blending multiple top pieces together is the fact that the top is not symetrical side to side.

When you cut the front portion away to excise the USB and fan controller area, and flip it around so the mesh angles match up, you end up putting a section of right side in between 2 sections of left side and the differences between the sides are really hard to work around.

That's essentially why from some angles it looks really great, and others not so.

Here's the top plastic, notice that the far side and the slots are a seperate piece from the main section that has the mesh attached to it:



Here's the inside of the top assembly, notice the screws that hold the main sections together, and that what was the far side in the pic above, is now the near side and is formed mostly from the topmost plastic section with the slots:



Here it is alittle more detailed:



I'll keep thinking of possible improvements, but nothing has jumped to the forefront as yet.

Darlene


----------



## Caruban

Ah, yes, well that does make that infinitely more difficult, doesn't it...


----------



## Bart

Working with plastic is also something you don't see many people do, so I'm assuming it's outside the realm of Joe Average, and even someone as skilled as Darlene obviously is. That seems to require a very specific expertise. Sure would be cool to get a mold of some sort and have a custom top made, but even that would be difficult! Great work so far Darlene!! I love how it's coming together!


----------



## Caruban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Working with plastic is also something you don't see many people do, so I'm assuming it's outside the realm of Joe Average, and even someone as skilled as Darlene obviously is. That seems to require a very specific expertise.


I guess I'm desensitized to it, considering that it's a very specific expertise I have. I worked in a plastics shop for 20+ years.







I forget it tends not to be people's chosen medium.


----------



## wthenshaw

Bart-
What happened to your "blinged out water build" thread? has it died? not seen any activity for nearly a month D:


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Bart-
> What happened to your "blinged out water build" thread? has it died? not seen any activity for nearly a month D:


Health issues (physical and mental), zero motivation, plus waiting on some stuff (possibly the 900D case when it hits). Once I get my health back on track, I'll be redoing some stuff and updating that thread.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Health issues (physical and mental), zero motivation, plus waiting on some stuff (possibly the 900D case when it hits). Once I get my health back on track, I'll be redoing some stuff and updating that thread.


^^ This ^^ real life takes precedent, get WELL SOON








that and the zero motivation, and waiting on the Gorilla - well, that'd sap anyone's will to build, even Bart's !!


----------



## smash_mouth01

I would like to congratulate you on your award....good job.

The stretch look isn't really my kind of thing, but I am a solid fan of your metal work and the fine details such as the electronics and such..

I look forward to seeing how you put all 3 top panels together, that will be of great interest to me. I wish you all the best..


----------



## X-Nine

Need a helper? I'd love to come visit paradise and hold metal while it's heated to 300 degrees!


----------



## Jacobanuse

Subbed. I'm loving it.


----------



## solar0987

Wait till you havta pick that thing up omg.

Looks fantastic though!


----------



## modnoob

Updates


----------



## Farmer Boe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *modnoob*
> 
> Updates


Chill bro, I'm sure she'll have an epic update coming up soon! We just have to be patient.


----------



## IT Diva

Nothing exactly epic, as my day job has hijacked most of my time lately.

I've been making cables and sleeving with the time I have available.

I did some experimentation with red and blue CCFLs, to see if a red one would give the res a bolder red color, but these things are such cheap crap, they don't half work with even brightness, the brightness varies as you touch or move the wires. It's been incredibly frustrating, (makes me just want to smash it all to h3ll and walk away for a month) and the POS extension cables I got for them, are useless, the things only light up half the length with the 12" extension, but are fine without it.

Moral of the story: if you want something right . . do it your own damn self.

On another front, I checked my local supplier for mirrored acrylic, and bought a quarter sheet of 1/8" to cover the entire back panel.

I'll cut out the area to match up with the CPU backing plate cutout and line the edge with these new "micro led" strips, as soon as the white ones come in.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18321/lit-342/ModSmart_19_High-Intensity_Micro_LED_Strip_-_Red_LEDSTP-R.html

Should give a nice glow from under the mobo.

I also picked up a quarter sheet of 1/4" acrylic for the side window and got a small test piece of commercial grade silver tint film and put it on a small scrap of acrylic to see how it holds up, as it's really made for glass.

If it seems to hold up OK, I'll do the side window, so that it works with the fully mirrored back panel to give that infinite depth effect.

Here's how a quick test with a small mirror and my test piece looks:



Here's a few more with fan cabling made and fans powered up:













Darlene


----------



## Caruban

That's pretty...

Are those green dots on the fans QA stickers?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caruban*
> 
> That's pretty...
> 
> Are those green dots on the fans QA stickers?


Yes, haven't bothered to pick them off yet, figured I'd do it when I trim the wire lengths and sleeve them.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Loving the look of it









Those fans on the rad's, just works so well, IMO.


----------



## wthenshaw

I agree on the subject of CCFLs, they are just awful, I bought a load for a build and ended up throwing the lot on the bin. LEDs are just so much better and the colour they give off is so much purer.
Those fans look great on the rads, I like how the copper is just visible through them.
Keep up the good work Darlene!


----------



## modnoob

Yea I'll agree with you on them they just keep breaking and my white ones in my build broke and the wires are so small that they easily get damaged


----------



## sanitarium

This is really just one of those builds where you look at it with an eyebrow cocked, while at the same time you can't wait to see what happens next.


----------



## AverageNinja

Took me a lil' while to read through this, but it was worth it!


----------



## socketus

WoW !! seeing those fans over the copper rads with pinks !! showing at bottom, puts me in mind of the lower depths of the seas where the ghostly glowing creatures of the deep come out to play







really unearthly looking


----------



## madweazl

Quite a project! Awesome to see the progress.


----------



## madweazl

Quite a project! Awesome to see the progress.


----------



## f0rteOC

Great work!


----------



## Bart

Wooohooooo! Love seeing those fans light up, they look great! It's coming together nicely Darlene!


----------



## CasperGS

sub


----------



## IT Diva

Well, . . . . 3 steps forward . . . 1 step back;

Radical mods can be such an adventure . . . . Seems a little "adjustment" to the res / pumps plan is required.









Anyway,

With the rads and fans in place, I dressed a few of the welds so that I could do a mock-up of the acrylic side window panel, and start to workout details of what actuator(s) I could make work, and still fit in.

I used a piece of 1/8" acrylic about 1/3 the length of the actual opening, (and a tiny bit less tall) as that's what was handy in my "scraps and remnants" box. I used a piano hinge to hinge it from the top chassis panel so that I could attach it with double sided tape and not have to drill any holes for hinge mounting yet.

In place of the linear actuator, I used 2 sizes of acrylic tubing, such that one slides inside the other

Sliding the outer one up to open the side window, gives me an idea of how much force it takes, and how far the window can open for a given amout of stroke.

The rads take up a *lot* of room . . . there's less space inside than I had originally anticipated.

This is pretty much how it works out:

There are, of course two things working in oppsite directions.

With a longer stroke actuator, and the attachment point lower on the panel, it takes less force . . . . A very good thing for small form factor actuators.

Unfortunately, the longer the stroke, the longer the overall length of the actuator, and there's a very limited space to work within, so low attachment point / long stroke actuators, are a no-go.

While shorter stroke actuators mounting higher on the side panel are fittable, finding them with enough power in a small enough form factor is easier said than done.

The key is to balance the stroke length, the location of the attachment point on the side window, the overall length of the actuator when retracted, how it can be attached at the rear mobo tray, and the amount of force that be placed at the attachment points.

Then I have to look at what strength actuators are available that meet the above criteria, and work that into the equation. . . . . . Makes my head hurt . .

With that done:

I'm going to order 2 of these:

http://progressiveautomations.com/mini-tube-linear-actuator-d30-mini-tube-linear-actuator-stroke-size-force-lbs-speed-044sec-p-254.html

I can make them fit, and they'll be able to raise the window a little past the 90 degree point, to between 100 to 110 degrees or so.

The downside, is that it looks like it'll take 2 of them, and that's with an 1/8" acrylic side window, so I'll need to space them about 16 to 18 inches apart or so to distribute the force. Once they get here, I'll look into how well the pair might work with a 1/4" side window panel, and if adding a third is feasable, if it would allow for a 1/4" acrylic side window.

Now of course, since no good deed goes unpunished, having to use multiple actuators and where the attachment points have to be, precludes the res plan with the three 400mm res's set horizontally.

It looks like I'll be going back to a variation on the original plan that uses 6 smaller res's, (150's in this case) on custom acrylic adapter plates that mount to the dual pump tops and plumbs pairs of 150mm vertically mounted res's in parallel, with flow passages in the adapter plates.

That way I can mount them side by side and have room between them for the actuators.

Also, they'll fit a lot better with nicer aesthetics that squeezing the three big 400mm res's in as well, so the actuator issue turns out to be rather serendipitous after all.

So far, I've cut a couple pieces of thick acrylic to make the adapter plates. I cut one to the planned size for two 150mm res's and the dual D5 pump setup, and the other is sized to be a double adapter for 4 res's and 2 dual pump setups, although it can be cut into two single adapters if the need arises. They are sized such that they bring the res / pump assy's out from the back panel enough to locate the 2 aux power supplies on the back panel behind them.

Looking at the dual D5 pump top, it has four 3mm threaded holes, that allow this res to mount directly to it above the inlet, and it also has four identical holes that would position another identical res over the second pump.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16074/ex-res-367/Bitspower_Dual_Single_D5_Top_Upgrade_Kit_150-_Clear_BP-D5TOPUK150AC-BKCLCL.html?tl=g30c97s169#blank

Though it makes no sense to have them over the second pump, I'll be able to make use of them being there for mounting the pump setup under the adapter block.

I'll order two of those res kits tomorrow, and screw the bases to the dual pump top. I'll then take a flat piece of acrylic and double stick tape it to the bases and remove them, and then use that assembly as a template to drill the adapter block. . . . It will line up the 8 mounting holes, the res inlet holes, and the top discharge hole location that needs a recess made for the plug.

Once the adapter blocks are made, I'll be able to use the normal style bitpower res end caps, and mount the 2 res's with short male to male rotaries.

I'll drill a passage horizontally thru the block that connects the res's below the rotaries, and put a plug at the edge from which I drilled the passage.

Additionally, I'll drill a passage in from the front of the adapter to a verticle passage that will have an acrylic tube go up and feed a "T" to both res's for the return line.

I'll order some 6" ccfl's so I can add the "light tube mod" to the 150mm res's.

Here's some pics, so you can get an idea of what I've been working at:

Darlene

Side window panel mock-up:







Dual res adapter block prep:


----------



## socketus

OOh ! ooh! thanks ! i was having a hard time visualizing all that TEXT


----------



## mandrix

Ah, I see what you did there with the dual reservoir/dual pump mounts. Nice secure mounting base, more possible coolant and/or led bling opportunities.


----------



## Phelan

Stupendous work. I'm lovin' the door plans so far. One thing I'd like to mention, and this is purely my opinion only, but if the case feet can hold the overall weight on the ends only, perhaps you could pull the duplicate case feet out of the bottom purely for aesthetics,though it could also help feeding cold air to the rads. On the other hand, I personally don't know the structural integrity of the feet, so if you feel they wouldn't hold up, or that it would add substantial flex to the case, I can understand that and reneg my suggestion.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Stupendous work. I'm lovin' the door plans so far. One thing I'd like to mention, and this is purely my opinion only, but if the case feet can hold the overall weight on the ends only, perhaps you could pull the duplicate case feet out of the bottom purely for aesthetics,though it could also help feeding cold air to the rads. On the other hand, I personally don't know the structural integrity of the feet, so if you feel they wouldn't hold up, or that it would add substantial flex to the case, I can understand that and reneg my suggestion.


It's not as easy as it might look.

The "feet" are not really seperate from the front and back.

To eliminate the front pedestal, you'd have to cut the front portion of the plastic part that also makes up the rear "feet". . . Which couldn't be done in a way that didn't look really bad.

To eliminate the rear feet, you'd have to cut the rear portion of that same piece off, which would look just as bad.

Here's a couple pics that show the dark part that is the front pedestal part of the feet, and the big long white platic part that forms the rear feet, and also acts as the locating agent for the pedestal part.

One workable option would be to eliminate all the stock "feet" and go to something aftermarket or full custom, but I want to maintain as much of the original look and style of the case as I can, and being able to fit two full bottoms seems to be the best way to make that happen.

Darlene


----------



## Phelan

Ah I see. Thanks.


----------



## t45457523

What on earth are you cooling? Planning on putting a nuclear reactor in it?


----------



## AlderonnX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t45457523*
> 
> What on earth are you cooling? Planning on putting a nuclear reactor in it?


At this point she can cool anything she wants, XD

Good work, ITDiva this is a insaNE MOD!!


----------



## MarkWP

Darlene:

I've been following this since inception. In addition to computers, I also spend my money on RC airplanes and the thought occurred to me that a servo actuated opener might work for your doors. There are a number of very high power servos available (Hitec and JR pop to mind) that operate on 7.4v. and provide as much as 600 oz/in of torque.

A quick google produced this page ( http://www.techcraftngrafix.com.sg/articles_dnt/Using%20Servo%20for%20D.pdf ) and with your knowledge of circuits (voltage, ground, signal needed), this might be another method to consider.

If you really want some grunt, Seiko servos ( http://www.vantec.com/ssps105.htm ) will run up to 24v and produce +/- 27 ft/lbs of torque.

As part of your circuit design, you would want to slow the transit speed of the servo, as most typically go full range very quickly ( < .3 sec ).

Mark


----------



## Blaze0303

So do you have a forklift around to move this?


----------



## kinvara

Subbed... cant wait to see the turnout... haha it would be cool to run 2 mobos through it and use one as like a server on one side and use the other side as your computer haha that would be pretty sweet lol...


----------



## modnoob

Yea I'll agree with the servos and not to mention with the servos you know the location so you could make it open in a paturn


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarkWP*
> 
> Darlene:
> 
> I've been following this since inception. In addition to computers, I also spend my money on RC airplanes and the thought occurred to me that a servo actuated opener might work for your doors. There are a number of very high power servos available (Hitec and JR pop to mind) that operate on 7.4v. and provide as much as 600 oz/in of torque.
> 
> A quick google produced this page ( http://www.techcraftngrafix.com.sg/articles_dnt/Using%20Servo%20for%20D.pdf ) and with your knowledge of circuits (voltage, ground, signal needed), this might be another method to consider.
> 
> If you really want some grunt, Seiko servos ( http://www.vantec.com/ssps105.htm ) will run up to 24v and produce +/- 27 ft/lbs of torque.
> 
> As part of your circuit design, you would want to slow the transit speed of the servo, as most typically go full range very quickly ( < .3 sec ).
> 
> Mark


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *modnoob*
> 
> Yea I'll agree with the servos and not to mention with the servos you know the location so you could make it open in a paturn


Servos have a solid place in mechanical controls and positioning, this application isn't it.

This is really what linear actuators are designed to do.

It's just that usually, to move a panel of this size, (about 44" by 20") there's more room to work with to place the actuator.

The Progressive automation website was a bit challenging to order thru, and the 800 number doesn't work down here, and the real kicker was that UPS was the only available shipping method, so that was $119 for shipping, and UPS will shaft me for customs brokerage once it gets here, so figure another $40 on top of the $119.

Hopefully, they'll be here for the weekend.

I also ordered a bunch of stuff to do the new res setup on one pair of pumps. I ordered extra fittings and such, so that I can try a couple subtle differences to see which works out best.

That was Express Mailed, so It'll be here for the weekend.

And if that wasn't enough . . . . .

I had two plain brown mystery boxes at the post office today. . . . . I figured it had to be some kinda porn . . .

Not one to be shy, I opened them tonight, and quickly started to salivate . . . . .









"Better late than never" they always say, and this time I have to agree . . . . .
















Here's a peek at the next adventure;

With a tip of the hat and a quick little flash to the NZXT Team . . . . You Guys Rock!

(maybe rock a little slow sometimes, but rock none the less, lol)

Darlene









And last but not least, a new V2 PSU, the cables come with a new NZXT white pouch:


----------



## Prof Aronnax

I'm late to the party, but subbed.

P.S. Every time the mail carrier drops all this stuff off, he's like, "what the #¥$& is *going on* in there?"


----------



## kinvara

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prof Aronnax*
> 
> I'm late to the party, but subbed.
> 
> P.S. Every time the mail carrier drops all this stuff off, he's like, "what the #¥$& is *going on* in there?"


Lol you meant the moving guy that the mail company is temporarily using for him haha


----------



## Prof Aronnax

lol! XD


----------



## mandrix

Darlene, could you show the cables that plug into those 5 position connectors on the right side of the psu?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Darlene, could you show the cables that plug into those 5 position connectors on the right side of the psu?


I can when I get home from work.

It'll be the peripherals cables, satas and molexes/floppy.

Darlene


----------



## loud681

How much has this project cost so far??? Looks amazing!!


----------



## sinnedone

Interesting question, though we all know when it comes to expensive hobbies you have to pay to play.







I keep waiting to see this thing all gull winged out. Keep up the good work.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I can when I get home from work.
> 
> It'll be the peripherals cables, satas and molexes/floppy.
> 
> Darlene


Here's the pic with the peripheral cables in the 5 pin jacks, they are all interchangeable.

All the 8 pin jacks are interchangeable as well, just use either an 8 pin to 6 + 2 for a GPU or a 8 pin to 4 + 4 for the mobo EPS connections.

The 24 pin is slightly unique, in that it has a small 3 pin connector in addition to the regular 24 pin connector at the PSU end, that plugs sideways beside the 24 pin connector.

I left it unplugged to show the detail.

My guess would be that it's a remote "sense" feedback line so that the PSU regulates the voltage based on the voltage measured (sensed) at the mobo connector to compensate for any Vdroop in the cabling.

Would have loved to have a king of the hill 1200W, but this 1000W is no slouch in anyone's book.

The 1200 has 4 pairs of 6 + 2 PCIe cables and jacks, while this one has 3.

Darlene


----------



## modnoob

Is the PSU a 1 to 1 and is easy to remove the pins


----------



## modnoob

Is the PSU a 1 to 1 and is easy to remove the pins


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Here's the pic with the peripheral cables in the 5 pin jacks, they are all interchangeable.
> 
> All the 8 pin jacks are interchangeable as well, just use either an 8 pin to 6 + 2 for a GPU or a 8 pin to 4 + 4 for the mobo EPS connections.
> 
> The 24 pin is slightly unique, in that it has a small 3 pin connector in addition to the regular 24 pin connector at the PSU end, that plugs sideways beside the 24 pin connector.
> 
> I left it unplugged to show the detail.
> 
> My guess would be that it's a remote "sense" feedback line so that the PSU regulates the voltage based on the voltage measured (sensed) at the mobo connector to compensate for any Vdroop in the cabling.
> 
> Would have loved to have a king of the hill 1200W, but this 1000W is no slouch in anyone's book.
> 
> The 1200 has 4 pairs of 6 + 2 PCIe cables and jacks, while this one has 3.
> 
> Darlene


Nice! I want one of those PSUs so much! I like my XFX 750w after all the mods I've done to it,but I'm ready for a modular PSU. Plus, I plan to get a second 7970, and I don't know that I'd want to run my i7 3820 overclocked and 2 OC'd 7970s on my current PSU. I wonder if the 3 pin could be done without.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *modnoob*
> 
> Is the PSU a 1 to 1 and is easy to remove the pins


All but the 3 pins with the extra "sense" wire are 1 to 1, those 3 pins have an extra smaller gage wire that goes to the 3 pin connector.

I just did a quick test, and it turns on fine with the 3 pin left unconnected. . . . . So you "could" leave it off . . .

Just how much the regulation at high current draws would be affected, I can't even speculate.

Perhaps one of the PSU testing gurus will test that aspect.

Ahhh, one other thing to note, is that it uses a different power cable modular connector than what we're used to as a standard.

The new one is a bit larger, more square cornered, and with horizontal pins / slots.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Well, . . . .

Picking up from where I left off on page 42 needing to change up the res setup to make more room for the linear actutors for the side panel, and some aesthetics as well,

It's been a long day in the workshop, but I'm liking the results.



Now here's how I made that happen:

I started with the 2 bitspower res bases attached to the dual D5 pump top. This will center the 2 res's directly above the pumps.

Note that only the right one lines up over an inlet port, so to get the left res to feed the pump's inlet, I'm going to have to do a little magic.



Here you see the little plexi piece bridging the bases and attched with double sided hi-bond tape,

This will let me transfer the pair of bases to a larger piece of plexi that I'll be making into a drilling guide so all three adapters come out exactly the same.



Here I've got a piece of 3/8" plexi from my scraps and remnants box that's going to become the drill guide with the dual base assembly clamped in place to drill thru.



Here's the drill guide mounted on the pump top with all 8 M3 screws lining up nicely.

You can see that I still have to mark for the top outlet cap's relief,

and I had to do a mock-up to see exactly how I was going to impliment the return line setup, so that hole isn't drilled yet.



Here's the finished drill guide.

The little cap with the small hole allows me to drill the top side of the adapter's inlet at the full size for the G1/4 thread, while being able to drill the underside with a small bit that's needed to allow me to counterbore for the o ring between the adapter and the pump top's inlet port. . . . Also shown is the underside of the bases assembly



Here's the adapter block with the inlet channel drilled and the channel to join the left res to the right res / pump inlet.

The upper left counterbored area is for the pump top's outlet plug on the top side.

I could have just left the plug out and put an o ring there, but then I'd never get the air bubble out of the space the plug fills up.

The o ring seals the adapter to the pump top at the inlet.



And here's the final product, I still have to get some fittings, the rotary 90 and the two male to male rotaries under the res's, from PPCs, since they have the ones I need in shining silver

Overall, it's a nice modular setup, 1 line out and 1 line return.

The flowmeter and splitting the return flow to both res's is all taken care of onboard.

I still need to do a little dress up on the adapter . . . I want to bevel the top and bottom edges along the front and maybe the sides, but I'll do that when I change out the black fittings to shining silver ones.

I'm also looking at going to 80mm tall res's, as these are an uncomfortably tight squeeze. 120mm would be perfect, but for bitspower, the next smaller size is 80, buggers !


----------



## Phelan

oooooooooohhhhh pretty


----------



## Figit090

Hi, Darlene. Great work! I've been watching for a while now, its an exiting build! How did you decide on the 1000w psu? I was looking at that one but some of the negative Newegg reviews, and my lack of need for the Watts made me choose the 850w for my build. I figure someone who does this level build would check online reviews to some extent but I thought just encase, I should mention: seems some of these have failed prematurely, so watch out for early failure signs, buzzing like one reviewer heard before his almost bricked his computer.

Same with any psu of course, and thankfully reviews have improved for that psu lately, but all the same, i wanted to make sure you knew.

Keep up the awesome work, looking forward to seeing that door actuation setup, and i do agree, servos are not the best solution here, a ram would have a much better mechanical advantage.








Is the door mockup final?

Best,
Andrew


----------



## jktmas

Most people have problems figuring out how to fit everything in their case, it looks like your going to have a problem figuring out what to put in to fill up some of the empty space, also i had a slight idea that you might like, might hate. Use the open space of the extra mobo space as one of the giant square rads and have it push or pull from the back.
Sub'd


----------



## ginger_nuts

You have a very special talent


----------



## MunneY

This thing is going to be amazing.... I can't wait to see it when you're done ma'am


----------



## badtaylorx

little too small for a lan party rig, dont'cha think???


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Figit090*
> 
> Hi, Darlene. Great work! I've been watching for a while now, its an exiting build! How did you decide on the 1000w psu? I was looking at that one but some of the negative Newegg reviews, and my lack of need for the Watts made me choose the 850w for my build. I figure someone who does this level build would check online reviews to some extent but I thought just encase, I should mention: seems some of these have failed prematurely, so watch out for early failure signs, buzzing like one reviewer heard before his almost bricked his computer.
> 
> Same with any psu of course, and thankfully reviews have improved for that psu lately, but all the same, i wanted to make sure you knew.
> 
> Keep up the awesome work, looking forward to seeing that door actuation setup, and i do agree, servos are not the best solution here, a ram would have a much better mechanical advantage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the door mockup final?
> 
> Best,
> Andrew


Hey there Andrew my friend, LTNS.

NZXT sent me the PSU along with the 630's. I was hoping for a 1200W, but the builds I have planned for the 630's are basically mainstream / upgrade builds that are more representative of what buyers of those cases are most likely to be using them for. Even a 1000W is more than enough.

I'll do some more research before using it.

Seems that maybe the QC suffered a bit on the early production to get stock ready for market.

I'll take this one apart and have a look before trusting expensive parts to it.

The window mockup is just that, a mockup, something temporary to get measurements and data from to be able to make the best actuator selection, and figure out a way to make it all work. It's all put together with double sided tape so that I don't have to drill any holes untill everything is perfectly engineered. The piano hinge is fugly, but it holds all that weight with just double sided tape and allows the window to move it's full travel range.

For the final window, I have 4 sets of small perfectly styled hinges and a 12" X 12" X .090" piece of 7075 T6 aluminum to make stress relief pads for each hinge and actuator attach bracket from.

The hinge sets are McMaster Carr PN: 11955A66 and A67

Don't be such a stranger,

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Little Update on the Gullwing side window . . . . . .

The linear actuators came in during the week, and just messing about them a bit impressed me.

They seemed to have a good bit more force than I anticipated their rated 33 lb max to be.

So I made up a bit of bracketry to see how they would perform with the mock-up side window that I had in place.

First test was with the small piece of 1/8" acrylic that I had in place to work out the geometry and such.

It worked perfectly, with no apparent load to the actuator . . . cycle times were virtually the same as with nothing attached.

It takes just about 20 seconds exactly to go from full close to full open, and vice versa.

It stays locked in place if you let off the control buttons while it's moving.

The wires running across the PSU (lower left of screen) go to the up / down buttons in my hand as I run the camera.

I was encouraged!

Here's the first test:






But, . . . . .

Now here's what really impressed me !

I added a big heavy block of acrylic, the one I cut to use for the next two dual res adapters, to the side window to simulate having the full weight of a full sized 1/8" thick side window.

It worked perfectly again, even with all the extra weight added. . . . . and the cycle time remained about the same, so the actuator doesn't seem to be stressed all that much at all.

What that translates to is that I'll be able to use the planned 1/4" thick side window for it's increased rigidity, with only a pair of actuators that I can fit in with the new verticle res configuration.

Here's the test with the added weight:





With the tests being so encouraging, I thought what would make it even more awesome, so I immediately thought of being able to control the system remotely. . . .

A little fob, like for a car alarm, only with 4 channels, that could turn the PC on, power up the auxilliary 12V power supply for the rad fans and their lighting effect, and to open and close the side window . . . .

How cool would that be!

So I ordered one of these:

http://electronics-diy.com/product_details.php?pid=451&name=4-Channel 433MHz Wireless RF Remote Control Kit (100m)

And a buch of relays and stuff from Digikey to interface it to my system.

So stay tuned for how that all works out.

Thank you all for your continued interest in my "build of a lifetime".

Darlene

edit to add:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> Most people have problems figuring out how to fit everything in their case, it *looks like your going to have a problem figuring out what to put in to fill up some of the empty space,* also i had a slight idea that you might like, might hate. Use the open space of the extra mobo space as one of the giant square rads and have it push or pull from the back.
> Sub'd


Not actually, Keep in mind that this is a triple loop setup, so there are 3 of the dual res/dual pump setups that will go side by side between the mobo and the optical drive bays. The actuators for the side window will fit between them.


----------



## jktmas

nice


----------



## f0rteOC

That gullwing window looks AMAZING!


----------



## phillyd

Holy crap Darlene! This is ridiculous.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Holy crap Darlene! This is ridiculous.


I'll take that as positive feedback . . .









Darlene


----------



## kgtuning

Just awesome Darlene! Nice work.


----------



## mandrix

Darlene, are those res caps threaded? I was thinking you could have the longer tubes cut down to the size you want pretty easily on a lathe, but adding threads would likely be pretty costly due to the time and machining costs.Depends on whether you think the added cost is worth it....


----------



## mironccr345

That is cray cray! Love it!


----------



## Phelan

Awesome work Darlene!


----------



## Krusher33

I was brought to here by mandrix to look at how you bored out some sli fittings.

Now I'm hooked.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Darlene, are those res caps threaded? I was thinking you could have the longer tubes cut down to the size you want pretty easily on a lathe, but adding threads would likely be pretty costly due to the time and machining costs.Depends on whether you think the added cost is worth it....


Yes, the caps are threaded, M52 X 1.0.

What I really need are 120mm tubes, but the only way to get them is to use the coupling ring with a 40mm and an 80mm tube.

Being able to cut the 400's into 120's would be wonderful, if I could solve the threading issue, but even google doesn't find that size tap.

Experience has taught me that not all bitspower res/cap threads interchange exactly as promoted.

I had hell to get those clear end caps on the ice red tubes, a healthy bit of sanding and some wire brushing and a couple hours of frustration, and they still squeal like fingernails on a chalk board when rotated.

I'll probably be coupling 6 tube sets of 40mm with 80mm and buying the clear ends as seperates to get what I need.

Darlene

Edit to Add:

Actually, now that I think on it some, what would work would be to cut longer tubes down to 120mm, and then make new threadless end caps with a single step and single center G1/4 port and cement them into the cut off ends.

Only one end of the res would unscrew, but they'd be fairly easy to make in an exact length, and 60mm dia. acrylic rod, or its closest imperial cousin, 2.5" rod, is about $45 per1 ft length, which would make a lot of end caps.

Cutting down the three 400mm tubes I have would give me the six 120mm tubes, threaded on one end that I need, plus three ~ 120mm scraps with no threads.

I'm rapidly talking myself into this way of getting my 120 mm res's.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> nice


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f0rteOC*
> 
> That gullwing window looks AMAZING!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Holy crap Darlene! This is ridiculous.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Just awesome Darlene! Nice work.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That is cray cray! Love it!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> Awesome work Darlene!


Thanks everyone for being so supportive, and if I've missed anyone, my apologies.

The positive feedback really goes a long way with a major build like this where you don't always have significant visual progress with every update.

And where sometimes, a lot of hours of work just go into the Ohhhh shiiiiiitttttt, that just isn't what I envisioned bin, and it's back to the proverbial drawing board.

Just having little bits of engineering and design pass test trials can be a big step forward and make way for the next challenge to be mastered.

Thanks again to all who are following along and my goal is to make it all more than worth the wait..

Darlene


----------



## Krusher33

If it was never said... no one would ever know...


----------



## vaporizer

thank you Darlene for doing such a great mod(if you can call it a "mod", more like a rebuild). you have opened my eyes as to the lenghts one can go to in order to build a dream(case that is). don't listen to others as i am sure that if they would have thought of it first, they would have done it. and there is not a person out there that wouldn't make room on their desk or under it(or a room addition) for this beast. keep on keepin on.


----------



## sinnedone

Agreed

Dont listen to the negative comments they just dont have any imagination.

Just like in the car world people are always going to hate, but imagine if everyones build was exactly the same style! It would be a very boring place here in the case mods section.

Keep up the good work, while I dont post much I always come back and check anytime there is a new post. Looking forward to seeing this thing completed. Oh and post up about the non implemented ideas. Its always good to toss ideas around just to get a fresh perspective even if in the end its not what you were looking to do.


----------



## kinvara

Lol i havent seen a hate comment yet?


----------



## sinnedone

There were on facebook I believe.


----------



## Wibble360

I think it's great - am following along and looking forward to seeing those gullwings finished and in action!

I like the inside, lots of light from those fans.


----------



## mandrix

No what I was thinking -and hence why I said expensive- is put the longer res tubes on a lathe and cut them down to a smaller size, then the threads would have to be cut with the lathe. That would run into some time, though, and would likely cost more than you would be willing to spend. But a lathe is what you would want to cut threads inside tubing that wide.

But yeah, if you can cement them in place, why not? Break out the acrylic adhesive......


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> No what I was thinking -and hence why I said expensive- is put the longer res tubes on a lathe and cut them down to a smaller size, then the threads would have to be cut with the lathe. That would run into some time, though, and would likely cost more than you would be willing to spend. But a lathe is what you would want to cut threads inside tubing that wide.
> 
> But yeah, if you can cement them in place, why not? Break out the acrylic adhesive......


I knew you were thinking of chasing the threads on a lathe, but while I have access to one, I'm not that skilled to make threads that diameter and that fine.

I was hoping maybe there was a tap available and I could sorta "cheat".

What might be a real expedient, would be to buy the clear end caps, instead of making them from scratch, and then turn down the threads and the face seal o ring grove to a base diameter that just fits into a cleanly cut off tube and then cement.

Actually, by eliminating the face seal o ring grove, there'd be room for a barrel o ring, which I would trust to seal a lot more than acrylic cement.

Lots of options to ponder,

Darlene


----------



## mandrix

Yeah I think the O ring I would trust more and allow disassembly.
But if you can get a very good tight fit between cap and tube the acrylic adhesive should work. The problem there is if you accidentally trim too much off then you are in trouble. The O ring should allow for a little "slop".


----------



## sadeter

Just joined and subbed. This looks amazing can't wait to see where it takes you.


----------



## IT Diva

A little mid weekend update:

A few posts back, I mused about how cool it might be to have my system operate by remote control . . .

I should be more careful what I muse about, it leads to new circuit boards and "Totally Diva Uniqueness".

I now have a complete working RC setup ready to install when I get to that point.

Here's the RC receiver / control board with the mini 4 channel remote module:



This is the full setup with the RC board, the combination linear actuator / system control board,
the auxilliary 12V 300W PSU, and a linear actuator.
The fan is there to simulate the FC9 controller and all the rad fans it controls that also run from this PSU.
I selected this PSU as it has 5V standby power available, and can turn on and off via a set of relay contacts.
The Receiver / Control board is powered from that 5V standby, so I have all my RC functions without having the PC on.
The PSU is turned "OFF" in this pic.



One press of the "C" button toggles the PSU on, which powers up all the 12V circuits it supplies.
As mentioned, the litle blue fan is just a stand in all the rad fans.
The red LED (upper right) of the control board, indicates that that relay is pulled in to turn on the PSU.



Here I'm pressing the "D" button, which pulls in the lower left relay that controls the "retract" or "Window Down" direction on the linear actuator control board.
Notice that the green LED on the actuator control board is on, indicating power to the actuator polarized to run it in the retract direction.



Alternately, Here's button "B" ; "Window Up", or actuator extend being pressed:
Note that the lower right relay LED is on as that relay is controlling the "Window Up" direction on the actuator control board, and that the red LED on the actuator control board is on indicating power to the actuator polarized to run it in the extend direction.



And last but not least;
The RC can power up the PC, as well as run the rad fans for lighting and control the side window, without having to have the PC powered up:
Here's the RC with button "A" pressed, this turns the PC on, the upper left relay (LED lighted) wires in parallel with the PC's power button and connects to the mobo.
In this pic, the Aux 12V PSU has not been turned on by the RC, (top right relay's LED is off) but will turn on when the PC powers on.



And here is the "A" button pressed to power up the PC, with the Aux 12V supply already on:
In this scenario, when the PC is powered down, it would be necessary to press the "C" button to toggle the Aux 12V PSU off.



Hope you like this little mod,

Darlene


----------



## wthenshaw

Very snazzy Darlene


----------



## CrazyCorky

Just came in... my god this is insane!! Time for me to start saving to do something like this!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Very snazzy Darlene


Thanks,

Hopefully tomorrow will be a "work on the full sized side window" day.

I have a piece of 1/4" acrylic waiting, and plenty of mirror acrylic for the inside back panel.

I have to cut out the stress distribution plates from some hard aluminum alloy and decide how I want to use a few inches of stock sheet metal side panel at the front and rear so the acrylic side window looks "almost stock".



Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> Just came in... *my god this is insane!!* Time for me to start saving to do something like this!


Welcome to the party.

I've been told many times over the years that I have my own very special touch of insanity, and been admonished to Never have it treated!

Hopefully, it's maybe at least a little bit contageous.

Darlene


----------



## CrazyCorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Welcome to the party.
> 
> I've been told many times over the years that I have my own very special touch of insanity, and been admonished to Never have it treated!
> 
> Hopefully, it's maybe at least a little bit contageous.
> 
> Darlene


Oh don't worry it's contagious! I just wish I Had more money to do stuff!


----------



## Phelan

Awesomesauce


----------



## IT Diva

Got a lil' impatient and had to try a live test. . . .

So I mounted the RC board behind the front cover and plugged all the related boards up with it and the PSU.

Moment of truth and I pressed the GO button . . . .

Worked perfectly, . . . . and the window goes up and down perfectly as well.

Darlene





Here you can see the red LED on for the PSU's "turn on" relay behind the front cover mesh with all the fans running off the Aux 12V PSU:


----------



## kpforce1

Oh... my.... god.... this is probably the only build that I've see with this much "ridiculousness" involved! I LOVE it!! I had been contemplating doing a gull wing door on my Force1 project. I'm not sure about it now since I've already painted but you have really made me want to revisit that idea
















Great job so far and I'm am envious of your skills. Out of curiosity do you have access to the equipment and material to etch your own PCB's because from what I've seen they are beautifully done. Sub'ed to this build for sure!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Oh... my.... god.... this is probably the only build that I've see with this much "ridiculousness" involved! I LOVE it!! I had been contemplating doing a gull wing door on my Force1 project. I'm not sure about it now since I've already painted but you have really made me want to revisit that idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great job so far and I'm am envious of your skills. *Out of curiosity do you have access to the equipment and material to etch your own PCB's because from what I've seen they are beautifully done.* Sub'ed to this build for sure!


Yes, I make all my own boards.

I do the layout with DipTrace, and then use the "Toner Transfer System" to get the layout on the board material to etch.

http://www.diptrace.com/

http://www.pcbfx.com/main_site/pages/start_here/overview.html

The toner transfer isn't quite as perfect or foolproof as the website would have you believe, but once you get to know the ins and outs, you can get consistantly good results.

Once the etching is done, I drill them on the drill press, then dress and finish the edges.

After the board has all the components installed and passes testing, I put several heavy coats of clear laquer on the copper side to seal it.

Darlene


----------



## mandrix

Hmm. On your psu selection for 5V SB...don't most psu's have +5VSB?
I was thinking this was common, but I'm far from a psu expert. As you may remember, I'm tapping from the +5VSB on my SeaSonic to energize a relay on system start.

Congrats on your remote setup!


----------



## DaveLT

VSB = Stand by voltage ... it's always on
If you want to energize a relay on startup use the 5V rail


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Hmm. On your psu selection for 5V SB...don't most psu's have +5VSB?
> I was thinking this was common, but I'm far from a psu expert. As you may remember, I'm tapping from the +5VSB on my SeaSonic to energize a relay on system start.
> 
> Congrats on your remote setup!


All PC PSU's have +5VSB, but keep in mind that I have 4 PSU's total, only 2 of which are PC type PSU's:

Primary PSU . . . . . . . . in the usual location behind the lower rad, powers the Mobo, 1st GPU, and perhaps the case lighting (NZXT 750W)

Secondary PSU . . . . . . under the optical drive bay cage for the 2nd, 3rd, & 4th GPU's . . . this one has only PCIe connections (NZXT 1000W)

Auxilliary 12V PSU . . . . mounts on the forward mobo tray area and supplies 12V for the rad fans controller and the linear actuators, with it's +5VSB supplying the RC board

Auxilliary 24V PSU . . . . mounts on the forward mobo tray area as well, and suppplies 24V for the six D5's, and with additional voltage regulators, supplies 5V and 12V for the 3 channel PWM controller, the flow meters, and the flow rate / RPM displays.

It was my selection of the Auxilliary PSU's that I was referring to, when I mentioned that having a +5VSB, (and contact on/off control) were part of the selection criteria, as only the higher end units have those features, while most do not.

The reasoning behind the PSU setup is multi fold:

To allow me to run the pumps for leak testing etc. without having to have any power to the system at all, and unplugging mobo cables just isn't practicle for something this big with hard to reach places

To allow me to open the side window to perform maintenance in the event of some problem, like a leak where powering the on the main PSU's would be contra-indicated, or the system fails to power up for some reason

The gull wing side window can't easily / reasonably be removed without it being opened, so to insure access to the inside of the PC, I have to have an essentially dedicated system to control it with built in back-ups and manual capabilities.

The way I have it all configured;

When the system powers up normally, it powers on all three additional PSU's so everything functions normally.

Additionally, I can power on either of the Auxilliary PSU's independantly of each other and of the system PSU's for testing, maintenance, or diagnostics when required.

Not exactly simple, but it does help to cover possible contingencies, and prevent me from painting myself into a corner with very slow drying paint.

Darlene


----------



## jktmas

^ did anyone else get slightly lost with how complex that was? ii give you rep for simply being able think that up.


----------



## IT Diva

A little more progress on the side window panel;

Pretty straight forward grunt work here for the most part . . . .

Cut acrylic panel to size and double check fit:



Sacrifice a stock side panel to be able to transition the ends of the acrylic window to the sheet metal chassis:



Check fit again:



The radiused corners look a little rough in the pic, but it's because the white paint is not evenly curved, they actually are smooth and near perfect when seen close up, and will look right again when repainted.

The formed "slot" on the front of the side panel that normally engages the front chassis panel to lock in has been redacted back to a small lip to locate the partial panel on the acrylic.

My bandsaw blade broke today after 4 or 5 years of tender loving abuse, so I didn't get to work on the hinge pads yet. I'll pick up a blade during the week and try to get the window pretty much complete next weekend.

Darlene


----------



## wthenshaw

That window is a monster, are you fitting anything into the window? fans etc, or any other ingenious idea you may have Darlene?


----------



## ArcticEditor

Jeez, this build is epic! Can't wait for more!


----------



## Kyouki

Amazing! Will be following till the end! even if there is no end, I am hooked. LOL. I just finished my Build / MOD about mouth ago and now you are putting me in the mood to start over or a new one!


----------



## Nightz2k

Liking the progress of this, it looks amazing. It's definitely unique and some EPIC work done so far.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> VSB = Stand by voltage ... it's always on
> If you want to energize a relay on startup use the 5V rail


Uh, yeah, that's what I said.


----------



## ginger_nuts

I love popping back reading this build log.

But a pattern is forming:

IT Diva updates > a couple of people comment along the line "this is epic, this is huge, this is awesome, I am subbing etc." > IT Diva thanks them and explains or answers all there questions. > Then I get time to read and catch up.

For all those who haven't yet, check the other builds IT Diva has done, they are just as crazy and inspirational.

Keep it coming IT Diva


----------



## sidewu

subbing


----------



## circeseye

wow, all i have to say besides.......... i bow before your awesomeness and ingenuity and oh hell everything
















subbed

thank you for the awesome teachings and ideas


----------



## CasperGS

.


----------



## Figit090

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey there Andrew my friend, LTNS.
> 
> NZXT sent me the PSU along with the 630's. I was hoping for a 1200W, but the builds I have planned for the 630's are basically mainstream / upgrade builds that are more representative of what buyers of those cases are most likely to be using them for. Even a 1000W is more than enough.
> 
> I'll do some more research before using it.
> 
> Seems that maybe the QC suffered a bit on the early production to get stock ready for market.
> 
> I'll take this one apart and have a look before trusting expensive parts to it.
> 
> The window mockup is just that, a mockup, something temporary to get measurements and data from to be able to make the best actuator selection, and figure out a way to make it all work. It's all put together with double sided tape so that I don't have to drill any holes untill everything is perfectly engineered. The piano hinge is fugly, but it holds all that weight with just double sided tape and allows the window to move it's full travel range.
> 
> For the final window, I have 4 sets of small perfectly styled hinges and a 12" X 12" X .090" piece of 7075 T6 aluminum to make stress relief pads for each hinge and actuator attach bracket from.
> 
> The hinge sets are McMaster Carr PN: 11955A66 and A67
> 
> Don't be such a stranger,
> 
> Darlene


Hey, yeah it's been a while, dealing with my car getting dented (worked out in my favor, I get a check and can buy a new full frame camera with that money!), and a stupid three-month ASUS rma fiasco. Frustration out the wazoo, but I do what I can, I try hard not to spread myself too thin. I can keep up with this though, aside from technical and in-depth bits, I'm catching most of it! (pictures entice me).
Props for keeping up with the updates yourself, I have wanted to do step-by-step updates to projects but simply never put forth the effort to do so. It takes some doing to chronicle projects, especially such extensive and detailed ones.

Oh cool, I forgot or didn't realize that NZXT was a sponsor, but it's a good choice of them to do so, congrats on that. I might inquire about that in a PM...







I've been interested in doing a build, and I'm a photographer so naturally I could showcase it very well. Humorously, when I sent images to ASUS' RMA department of damage on a motherboard they sent me, the rep was surprised at the image quality! We'll see if I have the time to get a sponsored build going, someday perhaps.

Thanks for the info on parts, while I'm not building right now, knowing the name of a reputable (I assume or you wouldn't use them) parts manufacturer/supplier will help in the future I imagine.

So from your posts it's coming apparent you have some background in electronics, is that self-taught, profession, or schooling, if you don't mind? My knowledge is very limited but I am impressed by what you've utilized to make your own PCB's and your execution is clean and well thought out. Where'd the key fob remote come from? part of a kit, or did you taylor the receiver to it's transmission frequency?
To say in brief, I do like that mod.

Does the diptrace require etching with a tool/CNC or is it chemical? Or did I misunderstand what I saw and it's some sort of transfer process from a print of the circuit?

I took a brief moment but there's more detail than I can read through I think.

Way to go, keep it up! The door looks great by the way, and your mention of mirror acrylic makes me curious and excited, that sounds pretty; if I'm correct in assuming it's a mirror you can cut to shape for the spaces in the case you intend to fill.


----------



## AverageNinja

Phantom 820s








Feast for me eyes


----------



## IT Diva

Another weekend of hard labor:

In the "Just can't catch a break" category, to be able to squeeze all three of the new pump / res/ modules in, along with 2 linear actuators, I needed a few more inches of space behind the optical drive cage.

To manage the needed space, I had to turn the nicely mounted secondary PSU sodeways and on edge.

it doesn't look as nice as it did i its original setup, but I have the extra few inches now.

Now the cool part, . . . . well in a minute after I rant for a moment . . .

I'm beginning to really hate metal work, it wears my hobby level power tools out wayyyy too fast and really tests my patience.

The good side is that I have some new tools now that should survive a few more serious builds.

Anyway,

I made up the stress plates for the side window hinges and mounted the mating hinge halves on the chassis.

Everything went as planned, just a buttload of grunt work to make them.

I still have to make the stress plate for where the actuator clevices mount on the side window, but I stuck them on with some double sided tape to test.

It's nice to see my initial vision as a working reality:





Hope you liked it,

Darlene


----------



## sinnedone

Very very nice.









Have someone over and say hold on I have to check something quick, remote comes out and computer comes to life.... priceles.


----------



## socketus

That's thrilling. So what is the button push sequence ? there are 2 pushes - leds turn on - off - on - must be the separate power turnons ? and the noise, from the actuators ?

very cool ! Felt like I was watching that old Universal monster picture from the 30s/40s - House of Darlene ! ITS ALIVE !


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> That's thrilling. So what is the button push sequence ? there are 2 pushes - leds turn on - off - on - must be the separate power turnons ? and the noise, from the actuators ?
> 
> very cool ! Felt like I was watching that old Universal monster picture from the 30s/40s - House of Darlene ! ITS ALIVE !


Pay no attention to the noise, I didn't realize it untill I watched the video that I had the pedestal fan on, and it was only a few feet from the camera.
Here in the tropics, we run fans all year long and become pretty oblivious to the sound.

The top left button powers up the PC. The receiver's relay board makes a momentary contact while you press the button that connects to the mobo power switch front panel connector pins.

The lower left button toggles it's respective receiver board relay. Push once to turn on the Aux PSU for the fans and actuator power, push again to turn off.

If you hold it too long, it'll sometimes toggle back off, as it did in the video, requiring a second press. I'm not very coordinated left handed.

The top right button powers the actuators in the "UP" direction for as long as it's pressed, but once they fully extend, they turn off by the internal limit switches.

The lower right button powers the actuators in the "Down" direction for as long as it's pressed, though they also stop automatically when fully retracted.

Darlene


----------



## wthenshaw

Question Darlene,

I noted that as the window was going up the plastic looked rather flexed, is this going to be fixed when the metal from the original doors is on?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Question Darlene,
> 
> I noted that as the window was going up the plastic looked rather flexed, is this going to be fixed when the metal from the original doors is on?


The metal from the original door is pretty flimsy once it's not a complete door any more. I can't imagine the little trim pieces at the ends being any help in reducing flex. They are purely cosmetic.

The flex should be reduced considerably though, when I add the stress plate where the actuator clevices attach to the window.

It won't, of course, be eliminated alltogether, but it should end up at a much more acceptable level.

Since the window normally stays in the down position where flex isn't an issue, some degree of flex as it raises, and in the up position is to be expected, just part of the properties of acrylic.

Darlene


----------



## wthenshaw

I see.


----------



## CasperGS




----------



## xenomorph113

o
m
g










this is massive! i love that gullwing door


----------



## X-Nine

Ha! That Gulwing panel is awesome. I'd like to see it auto-raise with one touch, but it's your build so do what you like. Other than that, it's coming along very well. I bet Paris Hilton would love a ride in that thing. The you could drown her in your WC loop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Ha! That Gulwing panel is awesome. I'd like to see it auto-raise with one touch, but it's your build so do what you like. Other than that, it's coming along very well. I bet Paris Hilton would love a ride in that thing. The you could drown her in your WC loop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Are you sure it's not that you'd like a ride in Paris Hilton . . . . . .

Anyway,

The one touch auto raise is easy enough to impliment, but I decided against it as the window is pretty big, and I think having to pay attention as it raises is a good idea to prevent it from hitting into something too close by that I may have forgotten to move far enough out of the way in advance.

Also, there will be times when I don't want it to go all the way up, just part way may be all that's needed.

Darlene


----------



## kinvara

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Are you sure it's not that you'd like a ride in Paris Hilton . . . . . .
> 
> Anyway,
> 
> The one touch auto raise is easy enough to impliment, but I decided against it as the window is pretty big, and I think having to pay attention as it raises is a good idea to prevent it from hitting into something too close by that I may have forgotten to move far enough out of the way in advance.
> 
> Also, there will be times when I don't want it to go all the way up, just part way may be all that's needed.
> 
> Darlene


LOL
and the only other problem i could see happening is having it stop at a certain point and not going until it breaks (if that is possible haha)


----------



## Dyceskynes

It moved slower than I thought it would, is that by design or the nature of those actuators? I am used to pneumatics so I have no idea.


----------



## mironccr345

I'm not gonna lie, that side panel is [email protected] Nice work ITDiva!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyceskynes*
> 
> It moved slower than I thought it would, is that by design or the nature of those actuators? I am used to pneumatics so I have no idea.


Regardless of the actuator type, there are always going to be 3 factors to juggle, as they all interrelate; power, size, & speed.

For as much power as I need, that has to fit in the available space, greater gear reduction and hence the lower travel rate is the resulting trade off.

Maybe a little faster might be nice, but I'm really fine with it as it is.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I'm not gonna lie, that side panel is [email protected] Nice work ITDiva!


Thank you very much.

I think the art of engineering is to make something look deceptively simple and aesthetically pleasing.

I have a bit more detailing to do on the Gullwing, but there's a lot more there than is immediately visible.

Darlene


----------



## Ashuiegi

did you reinforced the frame ? it must be hard to lift and move around but it look great , the automatic door is a little bit overkill but why not .
give me an idea ,if the back panel was in clear acrylic too, it will make it see tru and in the middle of a room on some fourniture it can look amazing or set the pc in front of a big aquarium- epic.


----------



## IT Diva

Sorry it's not much of a weekend update, but seems the flu got to me last week and today was the first day of reasonable consciousness in the last few.

I did get to add the stress plates where the actuators attach to the side window and retest.

The flex is down to a very acceptable level and the operation is nice and smooth.

Once I get all the aluminum plates polished, I think the aesthetics will also improve to where I'm happy, although they might look pretty nice if I have them gold plated.

Hopefully, I can get a start on getting the mirror acrylic fitted for the back panel this week.

Darlene

It's in HD, so the detail is pretty good in full screen mode.


----------



## sinnedone

Yes big difference now with the reinforcements. Cant wait to see this all come together.









Hope you get better soon


----------



## Solonowarion

I caught up on the post now I can get back to work. This build is a fantastic work of art as it is. I cant wait.

Peace.


----------



## Bart

Those plates sure made a large difference. Looks great! Get better soon!


----------



## k.3nny

Way better than first movie, Love the improvements!


----------



## f0rteOC

That door is amazing!


----------



## IT Diva

Okie Dokie, . . . . a little weekend update:

Not sure if it was the fever from the flu last week, or just plain old senility, but I bought a new to me car Friday, and then worked on the stretch build all weekend.









Late model Mustang convertible with 29K miles. It's not a Hyabusa, but it's fun for a car, and my little Nisaan 4X4 is getting old.

Anyway . . . .

Bitspower needs to start making these dual res adapter blocks, cuz they are a damn lot of work and really need a full shop to machine them nicely. I think they'd be a nice addition to the dual D5 pump top.

The double one took me almost 20 hours, and I already had a drill jig from the first single one I made.

The "feet" to mount the pump setups over the rad fans were a little more straight forward.

I just need to make up some angle mounting tabs now.

As you can see in the pics, I don't have all the res tubes and fittings in yet, but there's enough to see how it's going to fit together and look.

Darlene















Here is an initial test run and a look at how they all plumb up:


----------



## jktmas

lookin great! are you going to use 3 separate loops with different colors


----------



## CptAsian

I've been following this build for quite some time, and it just keeps getting better and better. I've never seen anything like it; really unique and really good looking overall. Keep up the great work!


----------



## socketus

oooh !! is your Stang similarly colored - red, white and blue !


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> lookin great! are you going to use 3 separate loops with different colors


Yes


----------



## Lord Xeb

Pretty cool.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> oooh !! is your Stang similarly colored - red, white and blue !


I should be so lucky, lol . . .

The 'stang is windveil blue, (light silver blue) light grey leather interior, with black top.

I would have preferred the coupe model, but the only one I've run across in a while was brand new and out of my price range, although it was metalic red.
















Darlene


----------



## Caruban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*


So... Where's the computer going to fit in all of this?


----------



## mandrix

I see you have stripped all the junk off the bay mounts......what's your dress plan here, acrylic?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caruban*
> 
> So... Where's the computer going to fit in all of this?


In the rear???

lol


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caruban*
> 
> So... Where's the computer going to fit in all of this?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> In the rear???
> 
> lol


Yep, there's a room for a RIVE and 4 GPU's right there in the usual location.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I see you have stripped all the junk off the bay mounts......what's your dress plan here, acrylic?


Yep, . . . I'll be making a full length PSU cover just like the one on my 810 build, only in clear acrylic. I want everything to show thru, but want it for its shiny reflective surfaces, since the entire back panel area will be mirror acrylic.

I'll use a clear acrylic panel to cover the side of the optical drive cage, with probably a reflective film on one surface as a semi-mirror.

Darlene


----------



## sadeter

It's really cool to watch as this continues to come together one piece at a time. Keep up the great work.


----------



## kpforce1

I love this build.....














so fantastic!!


----------



## Buehlar

WoW...that thing needs to be on some rails







...SUB-ed


----------



## Xclsyr

Wow! Just.... WOW!

Subbed!


----------



## bmacks1

Very nice. Subbed


----------



## Iceandele

Updates?


----------



## IT Diva

Took a bit of a break for the holiday weekends,

and used some of the cash that would have gone to the "computer budget" to get a bit ahead on the car note and insurance so I have a bit of cushion in case something unforeseen should arise.

Seems it was a much needed break, as well.

Anyway, . . .

I'll be back to work plotting new insanities for the stretched build, and don't forget . . .

I have a pair of Phantom 630's here to get busy on . .

Darlene


----------



## DeanW75234

SUBBED! Awesome build. Will be following to the end. Have to go back to page 1 and read, read, read.


----------



## LuckyDuck69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Took a bit of a break for the holiday weekends,
> 
> and used some of the cash that would have gone to the "computer budget" to get a bit ahead on the car note and insurance so I have a bit of cushion in case something unforeseen should arise.
> 
> Seems it was a much needed break, as well.
> 
> Anyway, . . .
> 
> I'll be back to work plotting new insanities for the stretched build, and don't forget . . .
> 
> I have a pair of Phantom 630's here to get busy on . .
> 
> Darlene


I want a disco ball. And I want "the final countdown" to play when it boots. Maybe paint the outside with a brilliant rainbow? Oh! With a unicorn! Yes! A unicorn leaping through a shattering wall of stained glass. With a tattoo of NZXT on its muscular quarters. Ah... And brilliant rays of sunshine behind him illuminating the shattering glass & giving his long golden hair an exquisite radiance.

Dreamy...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyDuck69*
> 
> I want a disco ball. And I want "the final countdown" to play when it boots. Maybe paint the outside with a brilliant rainbow? Oh! With a unicorn! Yes! A unicorn leaping through a shattering wall of stained glass. With a tattoo of NZXT on its muscular quarters. Ah... And brilliant rays of sunshine behind him illuminating the shattering glass & giving his long golden hair an exquisite radiance.
> 
> Dreamy...


Where can I get some of whatever it is that you're on!


----------



## IT Diva

A little weekend update:

Ordered about $2K in new water cooling parts, some to finish out the dual res pump assemblies for the Stretch build, some to use in the 630's builds, and 4 of the EK full coverage blocks for my Matrix GPU's that may move from the Switch build to the Stretch build, depending.

I also finally tore into the 630's to get an idea of what may have been in their designer's mind, and what they may lend themselves to relative to some MODS that should be within the realm of most enthusiasts.

I'll be creating a build log for the 630's builds soon, but I wanted to introduce my concept behind the builds;

It's now up, here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1379889/mix-n-match-twins-complimentary-pair-of-nzxt-phantom-630s#post_19701277

I'll be building a pair of the new NZXT Phantom 630's, kind of alternating efforts between them and the stretch build.

The idea is to mix and match parts of a white one and a gunmetal one, to produce two complimentary builds, each unique from anything you could buy off the shelf.

The idea here is that 2 friends could buddy-up so that each would have a unique custom at the cost of a single case.

Though everyone has their own opinion, I see the 630 as a case best suited as either an upgrade to gain good WC capabilities for a slightly older Sandy Bridge system that's on air of AIO, or as an equally good choice for a new gaming level SB /IB build with WC in the plan.

I would suggest going to the larger 810 or 820 if you plan more than 2 GPU's.

The 630 is not that big inside, and starts to look cramped more quickly than its larger cousins.

I'll save the review and critical appraisal for the build log, but here's a little preview of the "Mix 'N Match" buddy builds:

Darlene

Here's a few shots with the side panels removed:







Here's a few shots with the side panels in place, both with sides matching the chassis, and with the sides matching the plastics:

I think the contrasting USB module looks good either way.

I prefer the side panels matching the plastics, with the top edge of the chassis and the lower edge / feet as accents.









But here's the sides matching the chassis for comparison:


----------



## Xclsyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> A little weekend update:


Personally not a fan of all-white cases, but I _really_ like how the white chassis pops with the Gunmetal side panels. Can you see any white around the edges when the side panel is on?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xclsyr*
> 
> Personally not a fan of all-white cases, but I _really_ like how the white chassis pops with the Gunmetal side panels. Can you see any white around the edges when the side panel is on?


I added some more pics to the original post with side panels in place to get a better idea of how it will look.

I think adding a larger customized window area and white rads in either build, will add a lot of * POP *.

Darlene


----------



## Xclsyr

Like the dark stripe down the side with the white front & side panels, but wish it wasn't there on the grey...

Funny thing is I was just looking this case up online, and there's one locally for sale in white. Thinking hard about picking it up (although what for? hmmmmm....)









Will be looking forwards to the 630 build(s) log!

_[edit]:_ Actually the more I look at it, what I'd personally do for a mix & match would be to fully tear them down and swap the rear chassis panel, MB tray and drive cages only. Stealthy grey outside, nice & bright inside. Thanks for the inspriation Darlene, +rep for getting my creative juices going!

Rich


----------



## IT Diva

It's always nice when new stuff comes in:

I'll be building out all three of the dual res - dual pump setups this weekend, and should have pics / video with all three operational soon.

Did I mention that I like Bitspower kit!













And the new EK blocks for 4 Asus Matrix 7970's







Darlene


----------



## Xclsyr

I see you picked up just a couple 'odds & ends'


----------



## Bart

Getting those packages makes it seem like Christmas, only more frequently.







Always puts a smile on my face.


----------



## IT Diva

Just a little progress report:

Finished the Red loop's dual pump/dual res assembly, the one that locates rearmost in the case and cools the CPU, RAM, and mobo blocks.

From the measurements, it will just slightly clear the space between the upper and lower rads.

The coupler to get the custom tube length to give a120mm height is a bit taller than anticipated.

It's a bit hard to see in the pics, but I took the time to polish the crystal Tee's, and they really look nice.

The Tee line in back with the 90 and vertical tube is the fill / vent setup. Exactly how I do the final plumbing off the Tee will be determined once installed, but I have to have something to work from designed in as it's assembled.

It's been running now for an hour or two, nice to leak test a complex assembly in advance so there's no surprises, while I get the double assembly for the white and blue loops prepped and assembled.

Darlene



Here's the double assembly that I'm working on now:


----------



## Bart

That is art.


----------



## IT Diva

Here's the white and blue loops' assembly running in test mode to watch for leaks and any other issues that might want to bite me on my keester:

It was a fair bit more work than I expected, and a butt load more work and planning than its appearance belies.



And here are all three working as designed:



Darlene


----------



## Babbalabba

*looks at measly system*

You win.


----------



## Bart

Any chance we could get some shots of the back side of those rigs? I'd love to get a closer look at the drain/fill setup. Great work Darlene!


----------



## sadeter

Koolance actually makes a 60x120 mm tube which according to the diagram found on their website (below), has the same M52 threads as the Bitspowers and should be compatible. If you used them you would be able to just have solid clear tubes instead of having the couplers in there.



I'm not sure if you were saying your current height was with the endcaps or without, so of course by the time you put them on it, it might be too tall anyway.

EDIT: Even with the couplers, yours still look freaking awe-mazing anyway!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sadeter*
> 
> Koolance actually makes a 60x120 mm tube which according to the diagram found on their website (below), has the same M52 threads as the Bitspowers and should be compatible. If you used them you would be able to just have solid clear tubes instead of having the couplers in there.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if you were saying your current height was with the endcaps or without, so of course by the time you put them on it, it might be too tall anyway.
> 
> EDIT: Even with the couplers, yours still look freaking awe-mazing anyway!


Thanks for the info,

Wonder if PPC's or FCPU carry them, or if I have to order them from the Koolance web store?

If the threads fit, that would be sweet, as it would give me a bit more clearance.

The couplers are a full 10mm, something they did not mention in the description.

I'll have to take a chance and order some, I guess.

Edit to add,

Buggers, figured it had to be too good to be true.

They both have the same diameter thread, but the BP is M52 X 1, where the Koolance is slightly coarser at M52 X 1.5

Darlene


----------



## hammadj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Here's the white and blue loops' assembly running in test mode to watch for leaks and any other issues that might want to bite me on my keester:
> 
> It was a fair bit more work than I expected, and a butt load more work and planning than its appearance belies.
> 
> 
> 
> And here are all three working as designed:
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Would the Aurora coolant not lose its effect over time in this build?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammadj*
> 
> Would the Aurora coolant not lose its effect over time in this build?


Probably,

and when it does, I'll either change to pastels, or buy more.

Sorta depends on how long it lasts, and how much work I'm willing to do at the time.

Darlene


----------



## Bart

Is there any vibration from all those D5s? I have 2 in a bay res, and the vibration is noticeable, and slightly annoying.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Is there any vibration from all those D5s? I have 2 in a bay res, and the vibration is noticeable, and slightly annoying.


These are the PWM versions, and unlike the 35X's that runs at max when there is no PWM signal, the PWM D5's run at 60%.

The three channel PWM controller I built for this build is in the bay already, so I can only control one pair at a time with my handy dandy single channel version.

Currently, they are all just powered by a PSU, no PWM signals, and running at 60%, or about 3 on a vario. I have to walk up close to hear them, and I can tell they are running when I lay my hand on the counter.

I think mass has a tendency to deaden or absorb some of the vibration.

I think generally that Delrin / acetal bay res's have less vibration issues than acrylic ones.

Bay res's in general, seem to be more vibration prone than other pump mountings, maybe it's the sheet metal finds a resonance point at a certain speed.

I doubt that except at near max speed, I'll notice they are running over all the fans on the rads, and if I have the pumps maxed, I'll likely have the fans maxed, and probably still won't hear them over the fans.

Darlene


----------



## slippyturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Here's the white and blue loops' assembly running in test mode to watch for leaks and any other issues that might want to bite me on my keester:
> 
> It was a fair bit more work than I expected, and a butt load more work and planning than its appearance belies.
> 
> 
> 
> And here are all three working as designed:
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Wow.... amazing! It's going to be awesome to see the final assembled product.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> These are the PWM versions, and unlike the 35X's that runs at max when there is no PWM signal, the PWM D5's run at 60%.
> 
> The three channel PWM controller I built for this build is in the bay already, so I can only control one pair at a time with my handy dandy single channel version.
> 
> Currently, they are all just powered by a PSU, no PWM signals, and running at 60%, or about 3 on a vario. I have to walk up close to hear them, and I can tell they are running when I lay my hand on the counter.
> 
> I think mass has a tendency to deaden or absorb some of the vibration.
> 
> I think generally that Delrin / acetal bay res's have less vibration issues than acrylic ones.
> 
> Bay res's in general, seem to be more vibration prone than other pump mountings, maybe it's the sheet metal finds a resonance point at a certain speed.
> 
> I doubt that except at near max speed, I'll notice they are running over all the fans on the rads, and if I have the pumps maxed, I'll likely have the fans maxed, and probably still won't hear them over the fans.
> 
> Darlene


I see. After seeing your beautiful dual-tube rigs, I think I'll be abandoning this XSPC bay reservoir in favor of a similar setup when I get into a bigger case. Keep up the great work! Between you and Seanimus, your builds are inspiring!


----------



## sadeter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks for the info,
> 
> Wonder if PPC's or FCPU carry them, or if I have to order them from the Koolance web store?
> 
> If the threads fit, that would be sweet, as it would give me a bit more clearance.
> 
> The couplers are a full 10mm, something they did not mention in the description.
> 
> I'll have to take a chance and order some, I guess.
> 
> Edit to add,
> 
> Buggers, figured it had to be too good to be true.
> 
> They both have the same diameter thread, but the BP is M52 X 1, where the Koolance is slightly coarser at M52 X 1.5
> 
> Darlene


Well crap. I was actually planning a similar, single multi-section tube setup for an upcoming build to try to achieve a specific look, but I was planning on using the Koolance coupler with G1/4 holes and possibly one of the tube sections to get the right size. Looks like its back to the drawing board. Thanks for saving me what would've been an annoying pain though.


----------



## Phelan

Lovin' the fluids and reses! Looking at them makes me want to bust out in the American anthem







.

Keep up the amazing work!


----------



## LuckyDuck69

Finally!! Someone using the Aurora. Will you please report back here if/when it loses its effect. I'd like to get a real world time scale on this. And since you're using the same pumps as me... Etc, it would prove most informative.

Your rig is coming along nicely! Thanks in advance.


----------



## Prof Aronnax

Wow.









That res/pump apparatus is absolutely _insane_. And, apropos of nothing, I mean to say "insane" 



.


----------



## f0rteOC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And the new EK blocks for 4 Asus Matrix 7970's
> 
> 
> Darlene


Which loops would you use with each GPU?


----------



## socketus

IIRC, the red reses will be supplying the graphics blocks


----------



## Caruban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyDuck69*
> 
> Finally!! Someone using the Aurora. Will you please report back here if/when it loses its effect. I'd like to get a real world time scale on this. And since you're using the same pumps as me... Etc, it would prove most informative.
> 
> Your rig is coming along nicely! Thanks in advance.


Last person I saw use it (K.3nny in his pink NZXT Phantom) said it lasted 3 days, but the color was still pretty when the aurora effect was lost. Apparently it was designed specifically for show build and was not meant for extended use.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caruban*
> 
> Last person I saw use it (K.3nny in his pink NZXT Phantom) said it lasted 3 days, but the color was still pretty when the aurora effect was lost. Apparently it was designed specifically for show build and was not meant for extended use.










well that would suck some massive spherical shaped objects in a sack... if it only lasted days.

One another note: loving the build more and more ITDiva







Keep up the amazing work!


----------



## Ashuiegi

Do you have the cards already ? they are pretty hard to find now , at least where i live


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashuiegi*
> 
> Do you have the cards already ? they are pretty hard to find now , at least where i live


Have them mostly hiding in my Switch 810 build.

I'll move them to the stretch build if nothing later and greater comes out by the time I'm at that point in the build.

Darlene


----------



## sadeter

If it's not too much to ask, would you mind taking a pic of the white pump/res setup in the white interior 630 with only the single HDD cage in place?









Trying to get some ideas around in my head and I think it may help to see something close to what I'm thinking. Thanks if you can.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sadeter*
> 
> If it's not _too_ much to ask, would you mind taking a pic of the white pump/res setup in the white interior 630 with only the single HDD cage in place?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to get some ideas around in my head and I think it may help to see something close to what I'm thinking. Thanks if you can.


I haven't bought the pumps or res's for the 630's yet, . . . .

I just got some rads and fans in to work with . . . . as I'm still working out what can be done, both without (or minimal) modding, and then with some real modding, regarding what can fit up top.

What I decide on for rads for each build will likely have an influence of what pump I use for that build.

I'm looking at a GT Extreme 360 up top with a GT Extreme 280 below on one build, so I'd want to spec a dual 35X setup for that one, where I could opt for a dual D5 for the XT45 - 360 with the Monsta 240 build.

With the dual 35X setup, you need to use the available heatsink, or have them in a bay res in the top bay with the top rad as intake above them blowing on them directly.

I'll update that thread later today with some airflow testing I did on the fans and on the rads with different fan setups.

Darlene


----------



## sadeter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I haven't bought the pumps or res's for the 630's yet, . . . .
> 
> I just got some rads and fans in to work with . . . . as I'm still working out what can be done, both without (or minimal) modding, and then with some real modding, regarding what can fit up top.
> 
> What I decide on for rads for each build will likely have an influence of what pump I use for that build.
> 
> I'm looking at a GT Extreme 360 up top with a GT Extreme 280 below on one build, so I'd want to spec a dual 35X setup for that one, where I could opt for a dual D5 for the XT45 - 360 with the Monsta 240 build.
> 
> With the dual 35X setup, you need to use the available heatsink, or have them in a bay res in the top bay with the top rad as intake above them blowing on them directly.
> 
> I'll update that thread later today with some airflow testing I did on the fans and on the rads with different fan setups.
> 
> Darlene


Thank you for the reply, but I just meant if you could use the white liquid pump/res setup you made for this 820 build just for a picture in the 630 as a reference. I'm not going to be using the dual pump/res setup, but I will be using the different size tubes with coupler like you've done and seeing it in the case may help my brain work around a couple of things. Thanks.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sadeter*
> 
> Thank you for the reply, but I just meant if you could use the white liquid pump/res setup you made for this 820 build just for a picture in the 630 as a reference. I'm not going to be using the dual pump/res setup, but I will be using the different size tubes with coupler like you've done and seeing it in the case may help my brain work around a couple of things. Thanks.


I could maybe try it with the red one, the white and blue ones are actually one double wide unit.

The connecting passage for the whites is bored from the left, and the connecting passage for the blues is bored from the right, as is the single wide red one.

Darlene


----------



## oldcompgeek

I was turned on to your build log by KingChris, whom I admire for his quality builds and ideas, but you're surely in the same class! Love your ideas, design, and quality work. You're def. in a class that's light years ahead of my builds. That side-window idea is a real gem! Did you use servo-motor design on that or is it a trade secret? Great job, and I'll have to read the whole thread when I have the time. subbed!!!


----------



## sunset1

haha i i was p'm ed about a extremely cool page i had to check out.. from oldcompgeek..

all i can say is wow.. for once im speechless. And thats rare as many will attest to. :>
Im in the middle of some compeition benchmarking but when i get some sleep i hope to check out your build pages a lot closer..
Very cool stuff.
sunset1


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldcompgeek*
> 
> I was turned on to your build log by KingChris, whom I admire for his quality builds and ideas, but you're surely in the same class! Love your ideas, design, and quality work. You're def. in a class that's light years ahead of my builds. That side-window idea is a real gem! Did you use servo-motor design on that or is it a trade secret? Great job, and I'll have to read the whole thread when I have the time. subbed!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> haha i i was p'm ed about a extremely cool page i had to check out.. from oldcompgeek..
> 
> all i can say is wow.. for once im speechless. And thats rare as many will attest to. :>
> Im in the middle of some compeition benchmarking but when i get some sleep i hope to check out your build pages a lot closer..
> Very cool stuff.
> sunset1


Welcome aboard guys, thanks for the compliments.

The window uses linear actuators that somewhere back in the thread there are links to.

They came from Progressive Automation, IIRC.

Darlene


----------



## XgenZeepee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Here's the white and blue loops' assembly running in test mode to watch for leaks and any other issues that might want to bite me on my keester:
> 
> It was a fair bit more work than I expected, and a butt load more work and planning than its appearance belies.
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


This is magnificent!


----------



## Phelan

lolol


----------



## KurruptAus

Hey Diva, I mayyy have stolen your PSU mounting idea for my build







So thought I'd give you some credit for it









Am following your build with delight, it really is amazing, especially with that door!! Consider me jealous









Good work


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KurruptAus*
> 
> Hey Diva, I mayyy have stolen your PSU mounting idea for my build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So thought I'd give you some credit for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Am following your build with delight, it really is amazing, especially with that door!! Consider me jealous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good work


When I saw the pics and noticed that it was done with the 810 plastic sliders, I had a pretty good hunch where you got the idea, lol









When you don't need massive amounts of storage to where you just have to keep the HDD cage, it makes a great mod to allow for more rad space.

More rad space is a good thing.









I think it looks nicer with the PSU horizontal, as I had it originally, but I needed the extra inch of space for the res assembly, so I tuned it as it is now.

You have a nice build there.

Darlene


----------



## KurruptAus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> When I saw the pics and noticed that it was done with the 810 plastic sliders, I had a pretty good hunch where you got the idea, lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you don't need massive amounts of storage to where you just have to keep the HDD cage, it makes a great mod to allow for more rad space.
> 
> More rad space is a good thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it looks nicer with the PSU horizontal, as I had it originally, but I needed the extra inch of space for the res assembly, so I tuned it as it is now.
> 
> You have a nice build there.
> 
> Darlene


Yeah, must say I combed through every post youve made looking for how you did it







Took a while hahaha

Yeah the way you had it originally was good, I plan on possibly swapping it so the PSU intake is actually drawing from the front fan on the case. Not sure how well itll work yet though.

I was going to mount it horizontal, but it'd come out to far for my liking









Chris


----------



## sadeter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I could maybe try it with the red one, the white and blue ones are actually one double wide unit.
> 
> The connecting passage for the whites is bored from the left, and the connecting passage for the blues is bored from the right, as is the single wide red one.
> 
> Darlene


That would be great if you could! Yeah, I didn't think about the fact you made the white/blue setup as one unit. Thanks.


----------



## Retell

Just caught up on 10 pages of updates from my 256k connection in China. Worth It.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Retell*
> 
> Just caught up on 10 pages of updates from my 256k connection in China. Worth It.


Thanks,

There's always the expected engineering challenges that go with a project like this one, but so far, each has been met.

The idea of building the pump/res assemblies as a sort of subsystem made it a lot easier to be sure they'd work as planned, and a lot easier to install, and then remove/reinstall for painting etc.

I want to get a little farther along on the 630's, and then start working with the mirror acrylic back panel In the stretch.

Since I've been working on the 630's here lately, . . . . There's a few things worthy of note . . .

Some nice design ideas and concepts. . . . Liking the interchangeability of the drive cages, and the interlocking sliders

Some "you really need to have another cup of coffee and rethink this" concepts, . . . . . trying too hard to be all things to all users, to the detriment of things the biggest group appreciates the most

And a "what the h3ll were they thinking when they chose this cheap azz finish process . . . . . when the 810 & 820 coating was so vastly superior".

I could sure use some gunmetal paint









Darlene


----------



## d4rkr4in

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Okie Dokie, . . . . a little weekend update:
> 
> Not sure if it was the fever from the flu last week, or just plain old senility, but I bought a new to me car Friday, and then worked on the stretch build all weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Late model Mustang convertible with 29K miles. It's not a Hyabusa, but it's fun for a car, and my little Nisaan 4X4 is getting old.


demanding pics of your car, just because.


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d4rkr4in*
> 
> demanding pics of your car, just because.


THIS


----------



## Retell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> There's always the expected engineering challenges that go with a project like this one, but so far, each has been met.
> 
> The idea of building the pump/res assemblies as a sort of subsystem made it a lot easier to be sure they'd work as planned, and a lot easier to install, and then remove/reinstall for painting etc.
> 
> I want to get a little farther along on the 630's, and then start working with the mirror acrylic back panel In the stretch.
> 
> Since I've been working on the 630's here lately, . . . . There's a few things worthy of note . . .
> 
> Some nice design ideas and concepts. . . . Liking the interchangeability of the drive cages, and the interlocking sliders
> 
> Some "you really need to have another cup of coffee and rethink this" concepts, . . . . . trying too hard to be all things to all users, to the detriment of things the biggest group appreciates the most
> *Please go on!*
> 
> And a "what the h3ll were they thinking when they chose this cheap azz finish process . . . . . when the 810 & 820 coating was so vastly superior".
> *I think you are the first to even notice they were different. The 810 & 820 are spray coat, while the 630 is powder coat (they were made in separate factories) Can you explain what went bad?*
> 
> I could sure use some gunmetal paint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I might, be able to get some (820 or 630). I don't know how possible this is, but I'll be in the factory again next month.*
> 
> Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Retell*
> 
> Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> There's always the expected engineering challenges that go with a project like this one, but so far, each has been met.
> 
> The idea of building the pump/res assemblies as a sort of subsystem made it a lot easier to be sure they'd work as planned, and a lot easier to install, and then remove/reinstall for painting etc.
> 
> I want to get a little farther along on the 630's, and then start working with the mirror acrylic back panel In the stretch.
> 
> Since I've been working on the 630's here lately, . . . . There's a few things worthy of note . . .
> 
> Some nice design ideas and concepts. . . . Liking the interchangeability of the drive cages, and the interlocking sliders
> 
> Some "you really need to have another cup of coffee and rethink this" concepts, . . . . . trying too hard to be all things to all users, to the detriment of things the biggest group appreciates the most
> 
> *Please go on!*
> 
> And a "what the h3ll were they thinking when they chose this cheap azz finish process . . . . . when the 810 & 820 coating was so vastly superior".
> 
> *I think you are the first to even notice they were different. The 810 & 820 are spray coat, while the 630 is powder coat (they were made in separate factories) Can you explain what went bad?*
> 
> I could sure use some gunmetal paint biggrin.gif
> 
> *I might, be able to get some (820 or 630). I don't know how possible this is, but I'll be in the factory again next month.*
> 
> Darlene


Since you asked . . . . .

And I'm seldom short on opinions about things I have knowledge of . . . .

As far as I can tell from the price point, the 630 is aimed at a generally mid-level enthusiast market.

Not many in that bracket are going to build using an XL-ATX mobo, but yet the case sacrifices badly needed space above the mobo, . .

So you could use something besides an anemic 30mm thick rad if you want the benefit of push pull fans ,

to have 9 pci slots.

I doubt there's a builder among us that wouldn't trade a slot or two . . to be able to put a 60mm rad in P-P up top.

If you could put a 60 up top with all the room at the bottom that let's you put a Monsta there, the front rad space would be pretty moot.

I'd rather have the HDD cages right to the front, without the skinny 30mm rad space, so there's additional usable space behind them for pumps, res's, GPU's, and such to be located.

If I really had a need for the front rad, it's not likely I'd have any HDD cages installed at all, so I could use something thicker than 30mm and have P-P fans.

*The take away point here is that having more places to put 30mm rads is not better than less places to put better, 60mm, rads.*

On the coating process . . . I don't think anything went actually wrong or "bad", . . . they are what they are, and they are different. My take is that the 630 coating costs a lot less to have applied.

Some one would have to have had experience with major mods with both to be able to pick up on this.

The optical drive cage from the 810 / 820 are painted before assembly, and done very well, with only the least visible / hardest to reach areas getting a slightly thinner coating.

The 630 optical cage is painted after it's installed, leaving bare metal along the join surfaces to the front panel and the mobo panel, and a somewhat less well applied coating to the harder to reach areas, up underneath, for example.

It's surely a good cost cutting technique, and few average buyers would ever notice it, but when you market to enthusiasts, who like to mod stuff, and talk about it on social media, it adds to the reasons to use a competitors offering.

I found the 810 / 820 to be quite heat resistant and physically durable.

Using a dremel or disc grinder to dress edges results in very minor hear discoloring or surface degradation, except for extreme grinding operations, like removing the dimples and rolled edges on the top chassis panel of the 810 to gain an extra few mm of rad clearance.

On the 630's, very light use resulted in considerable discoloration and peeling back of the coating, such that a "worked" area needed much more "blending" to attempt to reach a similarly low level of conspicuousness.

It also seems noticeable thinner than the 810 / 820 coating.

You have to really "baby" the 630 when making mods that involve cutting, or dressing the cuts. Slow and gentle gets it done, given plenty of time.

From a customer support perspective, if you guys could make the gunmetal and maybe the flat black as well, available to modders, so that window mods without the need for ugly black u-channel to cover the bare metal edge could be the norm, you guys would be super heroes.

That would also solve the problems of modders who removed the optical drive cage and want to fix the bare spots, as well as all those modders who are going to do the Diva mod to the top panel to put 360mm XT45 up top in push - pull.

Ohhh, and the new product coming out next month . . .

Some in the community think you should send me several to thrash and trash for evaluation . . .









[/ramble]

Darlene


----------



## Retell

Am I missing the reply?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Retell*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Am I missing the reply?


Took me a while to write it all out well.

Your original post was nested within my quote, so it took a bit of effort to format it so it was easier to follow.

Darlene

Ohhh, and what type of finish is used on the gunmetal plastic parts . . .

I'd really like to be able to clear coat them, so that they have a little more shine to them to better go with the shiny white side panels.

The gunmetal side panels and chassis are already shinier than the plastics, just because they're metal it would seem.

Since the plastics are not painted on the insides, there's effectively no "test" area to try on.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d4rkr4in*
> 
> demanding pics of your car, just because.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> THIS


I should have waited till morning and avoided the shadows, but here's a few quickies:

Darlene


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I should have waited till morning and avoided the shadows, but here's a few quickies:
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How much did that set you back?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Retell*
> 
> I think you are the first to even notice they were different.
> 
> *The 810 & 820 are spray coat, while the 630 is powder coat (they were made in separate factories)*
> 
> I might, be able to get some (820 or 630). I don't know how possible this is, but I'll be in the factory again next month.


Rob,

Are you SURE you have that right . . . . . and not the other way around ?

The 810 and 820 finish really acts more like powder coat, with regards to application evenness, toughness and the fact that I can wipe it down with acetone where I prepped for a touch up, and it's impervious.

The 630 finish softens and dissolves in acetone, as well as it looks like run-thru where small traces run in between where the optical drive cage is mounted to the front panel and mobo panel, since it's painted after those parts are assembled.

If you can find a way to scrounge up some 630 gunmetal, I'd be realllllllyyyyyyyyy , realllllllyyyyyyyyy , grateful.

Thanks in advance,

Darlene


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I should have waited till morning and avoided the shadows, but here's a few quickies:
> 
> Darlene


Is that a fishing boat I see?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pidoma*
> 
> Is that a fishing boat I see?


Not quite,

That's a somewhat classic O'Day 19 sailboat.

Here's the fishin', (and general all around have fun on the water) boat:



Darlene


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Not quite,
> 
> That's a somewhat classic O'Day 19 sailboat.
> 
> Here's the fishin', (and general all around have fun on the water) boat:
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Nice! That looks like a nice cruising boat.


----------



## lordhinton

your car


----------



## Caruban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lordhinton*
> 
> your car










Your everything.

Your lifestyle is why I never want children.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caruban*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your everything.
> 
> Your lifestyle is why I never want children.


We each have our own sentiments . . . .

I have some friends with children, and they say their children are their life.

I've met their children, . . . .

They have no life.

Other friends with children have great kids and great lives . . . .

Too many variables that are out of our control for my non-gambling nature

Darlene


----------



## P1kk3wyn

wow took me ages to read through this thread. i think my jaw is sore from hanging open so much. this is some different kind of skill you have. pretty frikken awesome. i haven't really liked the Nzxt cases. but wow after seeing all this. i may be converted.

thanks for the awesome thread. will keep reading for sure.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I have some friends with children, and they say their children are their life.
> 
> I've met their children, . . . .
> 
> They have no life.


LOL!! Best quote EVER, and I completely agree! I almost spit coffee all over my keyboard when I read that!


----------



## Shiromar

I swear this build gets crazier by the week. Everything's looking amazing. Especially love the effect of the coolant.

Absolutely love your Mustang! Please tell me you've modded it much more than just the scoops?! I unfortunately (for my wallet) have went from modding my computer to modding my mustang. I just installed a CAI, Flowmaster American Thunder axle-back and a custom tune from Bama. Not to mention the other $7500 in parts I have on my build list... PC modding is SO much easier on the wallet!


----------



## Babbalabba

Any update on the Aurora? Also, Shiromar, you are right, PC modding, on a relative scale, is much, much cheaper than decking out a vehicle.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Babbalabba*
> 
> Any update on the Aurora? Also, Shiromar, you are right, PC modding, on a relative scale, is much, much cheaper than decking out a vehicle.


Not sure it would qualify as an update, but I run the pump-res assemblies most of the time while I'm working on other stuff, just to see how it goes over time.

When I go to start them after hours of being off, or from the day before, or even a few days, I can see that the silver has dropped out of suspension, and they look like just a bit of dye, the white one (well closer to silver) is clear enough to see thru easily.

You can see the silver laying on the bottom of the res, the top of the impellers, the bottom of the tubing, etc.

Once started, everything is back in suspension and looking like day one, after a few minutes of running.

Keep in mind too, that I have *lots* of pumping power and pretty high flow rates, as well as no nooks and crannies like a rad or block would have, so this is a best case scenario for how it'll look over time.

Darlene


----------



## circeseye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Not sure it would qualify as an update, but I run the pump-res assemblies most of the time while I'm working on other stuff, just to see how it goes over time.
> 
> When I go to start them after hours of being off, or from the day before, or even a few days, I can see that the silver has dropped out of suspension, and they look like just a bit of dye, the white one (well closer to silver) is clear enough to see thru easily.
> 
> You can see the silver laying on the bottom of the res, the top of the impellers, the bottom of the tubing, etc.
> 
> Once started, everything is back in suspension and looking like day one, after a few minutes of running.
> 
> Keep in mind too, that I have *lots* of pumping power and pretty high flow rates, as well as no nooks and crannies like a rad or block would have, so this is a best case scenario for how it'll look over time.
> 
> Darlene


im assuming you mean the swirly coolant??? if thats the case im a little afraid to use that stuff and shut my comp off. i sent you a pm asking you about it and this looks like it would answer it. i would hate to find out the next day to turn on my comp and low and behold its plugged cause of it. also since thats what it does shut down i bet its designed for a comp that is always on


----------



## IT Diva

It's Mayhem's Aurora.

It's designed to be eye-catching for photo sessions and such, but not recommended for everyday use.

I figure if I don't like it, or it doesn't do well after a while, I can flush it out and go to Mayhem's Pastels.

Darlene


----------



## Figit090

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*


is your neighbor building that a-frame? looks neat.


----------



## Tonysoprano

Looking good!!!!


----------



## syneic

Awesome







subbed.


----------



## AverageNinja

Just read through this whole thread whilst I have a presentation and two tests tomorrow. Worth it.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonysoprano*
> 
> Looking good!!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *syneic*
> 
> Awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> subbed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AverageNinja*
> 
> Just read through this whole thread whilst I have a presentation and two tests tomorrow. Worth it.


Thank you all for the vote of confidence.

I had put this build on the back burner for a few weeks while I made some progress on the Mix 'n Match 630's builds, but I'll be back to this one for a while again as I save some cash up for more parts.

Hopefully, I can get the mirror acrylic in this one this weekend, but I have to work both days, so maybe I'll work on the circuit boards for the fan breakout on the 630's.

So much to do . . . . So little time

Darlene


----------



## enRodjavel

looking sharp there, think this is gona be quite an awsome build when totally finished =D


----------



## FannBlade

Whew! That was a lot of reading.
Sorry so late to the party...your pics were flying around the internet today and just ran across the link.

Very nice build......I love BIG builds!


----------



## Friction

Holy heck! I just finished reading all 31 pages of this thread and all I can see is, you are one seriously talented lady. I am definitely subbing to this as I can't wait to see how it turns out.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enRodjavel*
> 
> looking sharp there, think this is gona be quite an awsome build when totally finished =D


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade*
> 
> Whew! That was a lot of reading.
> Sorry so late to the party...your pics were flying around the internet today and just ran across the link.
> 
> Very nice build......I love BIG builds!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> Holy heck! I just finished reading all 31 pages of this thread and all I can see is, you are one seriously talented lady. I am definitely subbing to this as I can't wait to see how it turns out.


Hi guys,

And thanks for the shoutout.

No problem being a bit late to the party, this is more like a rave that keeps going and going . . .

Had to work this last weekend, that regular day-job thing, and managers retreat this week, so hopefully, by the weekend, I'll be able to get back to work on this build as its feeling a bit neglected while I was working on the "twins" builds.

Stay tuned,

Darlene


----------



## wthenshaw

Any updates for us Darlene?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Any updates for us Darlene?


Strange you should be asking at this moment in time . . . . . .

In a round about way, . . . yes.

The Mix 'n Match builds were coming along nicely and I was planning what kind of pump setups and controls and displays to go with.

As it turned out, Lamptron was just releasing their new CW611 controller that's designed for water coolers, as each of the 6 channels has a 36W capability, and each can be set as a fan, pump, or flow meter controller.

Having a flow meter display read out in gpm seemed like a nice idea, as normally they read in milliliters per minute, and you have to have a conversion chart handy

Anyway, I got two of them for the M 'n M builds, but since I have all PWM pumps, and the new Lamptron controller is the usual variable voltage output type, if I wanted to have temp referenced speed control for my pumps, then I'd need to build a "Voltage to PWM" translator . . . . .

So I did, here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1395117/diy-voltage-controlled-scalable-pwm-controller

Anyway, as it turns out, after so much creation and development, that I really don't see where there's any advantage, and there are disadvantages, to having the pump controlled like a fan based on temp.

So ultimately, I kept the really perfect manual PWM controller portion of the system and designed a PCB to make some up.

Of course about the same time, Koolance comes out with this nice little bay mount flow meter display that reads directly in gpm, or lpm: http://koolance.com/dcb-fm01-flow-meter-adapter-with-display

So I got 2 of them for the M 'n M builds, and I'm going to put the 2 new Lamptron CW611's in the stretch and take advantage of all that display capability for the fan speeds, pump speeds, and flow rates and water temps for all three loops. I'll also gain temp controlled fan speed as well, really a plus with 2 dozen rad fans running.

Of course I needed to design a circuit that allows me to let multiple channels control from 1 sensor's input to get that. . . .

And yet another pcb I'll be trying to make tomorrow, having already designed it.

I'll be moving the FC9 controller and both X-Vision displays from the stretch, plus 1 new FC9, to the M 'n M builds to control and monitor fan speeds and pump rpm, putting in the new design PWM controllers to control the pumps' speeds, and the new Koolance flow displays to monitor the flow rate.

It works out to be a win for both the stretch build, and the M 'n M builds.

I just have a ton of electronics work still left after having done so much already, that hardly even shows since it's so peripherally related. . . . . . . . but then that's part of what sets my builds apart.

Darlene

Here's the Lamptron CW611 thread, starting from when the first units were in the hands of end users: http://www.overclock.net/t/1357575/introducing-the-lamptron-cw611-water-cooling-assisted-fan-controller/110


----------



## wthenshaw

Sounds great, I find it really cool how you are able to design and make your own circuit boards for so many little things.


----------



## patriotaki

OMG ! Totally subd!
My single 820 will feel like an ant next to this :O


----------



## wthenshaw

Withdrawal symptoms setting in... Need... Updates...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Withdrawal symptoms setting in... Need... Updates...


How ironic . . . . .









As I posted previously, I was still having an issue with clearance for the fittings at the tops of the res's because of the extra 10mm height that came from the res tube couplings . . . and hadn't really gotten a handle on how I was going to set up a fill / vent system.

So I ordered some new fittings to try a different setup configuration last time I ordered parts, and figured it was time to get my butt in gear on that task.

Of course while working on all the electronics for the M 'n M builds, having fun with the new PWM controller design project, and then deciding to put FC9's in the M 'n M builds with the new Lamptron CW611's in the Stretch build, and generally just rearranging all my plans, . . . . .

Phobya then comes out with this little gem:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=38178

Well, it's exactly what I was hoping to find since I started the stretch, the 3 top fan rpm readouts will be the pump rpm's for each loop, and the 3 lower fan rpm readouts will be the flow rate readouts for the 3 loops.

The top row of temps will be water in for that loop, and the lower row of temps will be water out for each loop, or I may organize it as top is water out, and lower is air in.

I'll use just one of the new Lamptron CW611's for its programmable fan control, and make use of the sensor expander pcb I made up to use the water temps displayed on the new Phobya to control the fan speeds.

So my new Phobya display got here Friday, and I start hooking stuff up to do some testing . . . .

Long story short, I find that 2 of my flowmeters, the 2 that are least used, give no reading . . . .
















Ticked me off considerably, but since I was about to take it all apart anyway to rebuild with the new space saving plan, it could have been worse.

Once apart, I find the impellers in the flow meters are so tight, I can hardly turn them with needle nose pliers.

Lesson learned:

DO NOT EVER USE TURBINE FLOW METERS WITH MAYHEMS AURORA !!!!!

OK, that really did tick me off, but lesson learned, . . . damned expensive one at that, 3 new flowmeters ordered cuz the one that works reads wayyy low. . . . . .

Pastels it will be.

So back to rebuilding the res assemblies;

With everything now dismantled and washed out, the big change was to see if I could use a low profile 5mm high M to M coupler in place of the 15mm tall rotary M to M coupler under each res tube.

That would get me the extra mm's I needed to get the res assemblies to fit in between the top and bottom rad / fan assemblies, and then to be able to come up with a fill / vent system.

I also took the flow meter out of the modular assembly so that it becomes a more serviceable item, and used some E22 tubing to make the longer connection path

With everything re-assembled, it was moment of truth time, and the assemblies slid into place with a few mm to spare, a couple of which will be taken up by the mounting rails.

Next task was to figure out how to fill and bleed this monster:

As it turns out, the 820 has long open sections, like slots, in the top panel alongside the rad mounting area.

This facilitates bringing fill / bleed tubes up behind the top rad into the space under the top plastics.

In the pics, the little "rabbit ears" tubes are the fill / bleed tubes that go in after the res assy. is in position.

I'll expand on the new Phobya display, and the fun with flowmeters in a subsequent post.

Darlene

Here's some quick pics of everything in test mode:


----------



## wthenshaw

Is that still aurora fluid in there? if so i can see it has lost its effect quite dramatically since the last photos


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Is that still aurora fluid in there? if so i can see it has lost its effect quite dramatically since the last photos


No, I emptied the Aurora out as soon as I concluded that it's what trashed my flow meters and bound them up.

I did not fully flush the pump bodies though, so a bit of tint still remains.

Once everything is tested and the new flowmeters get here, I'll flush the last of the aurora out and just go with pastels.

In the few hours that I had it shut off while I made another perfboard for the new display to divide the flowmeter pulse rate by 2, (more on that in a bit) the last of the 3 original flow meters gummed up and would not spin when I came back and powered up again.

I'm going to send all 3 back to Koolance if I can.

I've got the 2 that I bought for the M 'n M builds in until the replacements arrive.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

A little review of the new Phobya *MaxGuide 6 Dualbay Fan/Pump VFD Controller*

Well the name is sure long enough, but what it does is what counts.

As I mentioned in a previous post, I have been looking for a 6 channel display with simultaneous display of all 6 rpm's and all 6 temps to display the data from all 3 loops.

I wanted to show pump rpm, flow rate, water temp & air temp, or water temp in and out of the rad.

I planned for a separate controller / display to handle the fan speed control and display . . . . 4 channels would be enough here.

So then Lamptron comes out with their new CW611 controller . . . designed for watercoolers . . . so I got 2 for the Mix 'n Match 630's builds. They really are quite nice, with a lot of features, but they only show data for 1 channel at a time, and you have to turn the knob to scroll thru each channel.

Ultimately, I like seeing data more at a glance without having to interrogate the system for it and decided to maybe put them in the stretch build here, and move the Lamptron FC9 and the Aerocool X-Vision displays to the Mix 'n Match builds.

So just as I make new pcb's and order lots of electronic parts to translate the tach signal from fans controlled with the FC9 so they display on normal display devices, the X-Visions in particular, I see this new Phobya 6 channel VFD display come out at PPC's.

Wooo Hoooo, it was like some one granted my favorite wish. . . .

So I ordered one right off, even though there were no reviews yet and even the Phobya website doesn't have much about it yet.

It arrived Friday in a plain white box, guess they haven't gotten the regular color printed packaging in yet.

The display is super bright as you'd expect from a vacuum fluorescent, and the viewing angle is super wide.

There are 6 plastic control knobs, not _too_ cheap feeling, but could be considerably nicer for just a few cents more.

When turned to minimum position, the rpm display for that channel reads "OFF".

If you're using it to read pump rpm of flow meter output, you need to turn the knob slightly above minimum position.

It's a strictly manual controller, in that there is no speed control based on temp sensor data like the Lamptron CW611 provides.

In its primary role as an rpm / temp display, it works very well. It will read the fastest of the 5400 rom fans just fine.

Where the problem arises, is as a flow meter display . . . .

Most flow meters output a pulse frequency that when displayed as fan rpm, equates to ml per minute.

2 gpm is right at 7000 ml / min and a lot of controllers / displays seem to do poorly from around 6500 rpm and up.

Some just stop and read no higher, some go nuts and read all over the place, and some just seem to lock up, and don't recover normal function without being power cycled.

This Phobya unit is like that, once it reads about 7500 rpm, then it'll jump to 9990, and maybe drop back to 7600 or so, but just stays there until it's power cycled.

While 2 gpm is probably higher than most systems normally run at, it's a lot lower than what the dual D5 or dual 35X setups cab do in a test setup, and for that reason, having the display lock up way before barely 65% of the flow rate is achieved and having to power cycle to clear the lockup, even after the pump speed is reduced, is unacceptable.

Well, since the display is otherwise perfect for what I want, I figured there must be a way to make it work for me.

I figured that if I divided the flowmeter pulse rate by 2, then I'd keep the max number below the ~7500 mark where the display fails to function properly, and still be able to do a quick mental "double the reading" to know the real value.

In the pics, you'll see a little perfboard with the "divide by two" circuitry, which now lets my spiffy new display read up to about 4 gpm without crashing.

There are 4 channels of divide by 2 available from the 2 IC's, so I essentially have a spare one.

The top row now reads pump rpm from each of the 3 pump setups and the second row reads 1/2 of the flow rate from each pump setup. Notice the #1 flow rate reading is "OFF", that's the last flow meter that just failed, so it reads 0000, or OFF when the knob is at minimum position. You can see the little index marks on the knobs.

Darlene


----------



## socketus

ya mite wanna add the link


----------



## phillyd

I'm jelly of your life! Awesome work Darlene!
It would be great if you could come critique my build log


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> ya mite wanna add the link


I was planning to put the review and pics in the post, but since the last updates, I have major grief trying to get pics to upload properly, so I do the posts with pics a little at a time in case it all goes south and I loose an hour's efforts.

Darlene


----------



## nukem

That's a sweet controller! Sorry to hear about your flow meters. Glad to see this project is still truckin and can't wait to see where it ends up.


----------



## FannBlade

Great update.
Keep them updates "flowing" (punn)!


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade*
> 
> Great update.
> Keep them updates "flowing" (punn)!


No.


----------



## PCModderMike

So this thing is still a go?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> So this thing is still a go?


You bet, Mike !

Not that I was ever in a hurry on this build, more of a labor of love, but I got a bit sidetracked with the 630's builds for a bit, and doing some custom electronics for all three builds, then some new stuff came out that I just had to try out. . . . .

Now that the 630's are at about a similar level of completion, if not a bit ahead, it's time to concentrate on the stretch build again.

Keep watching for new updates . .

Darlene


----------



## wthenshaw

No recent activity on either of your builds spurs me to ask how is the progress Darlene?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> No recent activity on either of your builds spurs me to ask how is the progress Darlene?


Sorry for the lack of updates, but it's summer in the tropics and that means it's really uncomfortably hot working in the shop, and scuba diving is a lot more fun.

I actually took the 4th of July week off for vacation with the intention of getting a bunch done on the stretch, and ended up sick the whole week and most of the next, so that turned into a double whammy.

I had electronics parts come in from Digikey, so I'll be building out the remaining PCBs for the PWM controllers and such, as well as a custom "lab" unit for Martinm210 to use for his testing.

I thought that building him a precision, calibrated scale PWM controller, would be a way I could help contribute the community and show Martin some appreciation for all he's done.

I've had some thoughts on how I might make his more flexible, as well as unique for his purposes, so I'll be doing a revised PCB for his unit this weekend to incorporate those additions.

I'll build out the original PCB I made for his unit that's already to build, as a spare for my own testing.

So far I've built out one of the original 3 PCBs and it works fine, so once I build out the next two, I'll do Martin's revision.

Basically, his will be a standalone unit in its own enclosure with a single speed control knob and switch to select between internally generated PWM and, optionally, via a connection to a mobo CPU fan header, PWM control from a mobo.

What will really set his apart, is its docking station.

When plugged up to its docking station, it stops using the onboard basic speed control potentiometer, and uses the precision 10 turn potentiometer on the docking station that has a turns counting dial so that there is actually 0.1% resolution for repeatable settings.

The docking station also has a small integrated Kaze server 3.5 display for 2 pump speeds.

I'll put up a thread for it in the coming days as a mini build log.

Darlene


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I actually took the 4th of July week off for vacation with the intention of getting a bunch done on the stretch, and ended up sick the whole week and most of the next, so that turned into a double whammy.
> 
> Darlene


That always seems to happen doesn it. Its like any time theres a long weekend or vaction you get sick. Rest of the year working perfectly healthy. lol

Eager to see this come to completion though. I know what you mean about summer in tropics. Im in florida and the humidity is horrible in the summer. You step outside from your nice air conditioned house and its like BAM! instant sweatfest. lol


----------



## KillThePancake

Wow, that post made my head hurt lol. Good to know there are updates on the way


----------



## sadeter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillThePancake*
> 
> Wow, that post made my head hurt lol. Good to know there are updates on the way


You're not the only one.


----------



## mandrix

Darlene, did you consider trying to use the mps type flow sensor? Since it seems to work like a pressure transducer, I would think it would not "clog up" like the other varieties of flow sensors. Aqua Computer sells their flavor but perhaps there is something out there you could adapt for your use? I hate to see that pretty Aurora go away......


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Darlene, did you consider trying to use the mps type flow sensor? Since it seems to work like a pressure transducer, I would think it would not "clog up" like the other varieties of flow sensors. Aqua Computer sells their flavor but perhaps there is something out there you could adapt for your use? I hate to see that pretty Aurora go away......


Have you got a link?

I flushed the Aurora out of all 3 assemblies, replacing with just distilled for now while it's all still in testing, and replaced the flow meters.

They all 3 read the same now with all the pumps being controlled from the same controller and running the same speed.

The Aurora was really pretty, but in truth, it would have been more of a maintenance nightmare for a system that large than I'm up for.

I think the pastels will look pretty nice with all the acrylic and the white fan leds to bring out the colors.

Darlene


----------



## sadeter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The Aurora was really pretty, but in truth, it would have been more of a maintenance nightmare for a system that large than I'm up for.
> I think the pastels will look pretty nice with all the acrylic and the white fan leds to bring out the colors.
> 
> Darlene


Agreed.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Have you got a link?
> 
> I flushed the Aurora out of all 3 assemblies, replacing with just distilled for now while it's all still in testing, and replaced the flow meters.
> 
> They all 3 read the same now with all the pumps being controlled from the same controller and running the same speed.
> 
> The Aurora was really pretty, but in truth, it would have been more of a maintenance nightmare for a system that large than I'm up for.
> 
> I think the pastels will look pretty nice with all the acrylic and the white fan leds to bring out the colors.
> 
> Darlene


There are several of the mps type on this page, as well as the type with the rotor like I use. The rotor type internals are sourced from digmesa so I imagine the mps type have their counterparts in industry somewhere as well.
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/index.php?cPath=62_1735


----------



## IT Diva

Thanks, I'll take a look.


----------



## GeneratorJ

Just saw this from Mayhem's FB page.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=508278242574058&set=a.507396185995597.1073741828.146182525450300&type=1&theater

No mention of who build it though.

But the moment I saw it, I knew it was yours lol


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneratorJ*
> 
> Just saw this from Mayhem's FB page.
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=508278242574058&set=a.507396185995597.1073741828.146182525450300&type=1&theater
> 
> No mention of who build it though.
> 
> But the moment I saw it, I knew it was yours lol


I think the dual res adapter plate, both the single and dual setups, for the Bitspower dual D5 pump tops are still unique to me. I hadn't seen it done before, or even since I did mine.

Darlene


----------



## AppetiteNZ

So Darlene how many marriage requests have you had from the nerds so far.

Seriously this here is Mod of the year for me. Its beautiful!!!


----------



## GeneratorJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I think the dual res adapter plate, both the single and dual setups, for the Bitspower dual D5 pump tops are still unique to me. I hadn't seen it done before, or even since I did mine.
> 
> Darlene


Yea exactly, I haven't seen anyone do a loop like that.

Well, I haven't seen a case mod like yours either anyway lol

This is why people are following and eager for some updates hehe


----------



## f0rteOC

Any updates yet?


----------



## bwana

After happening upon this thread and reading it, I am still wondering what's going to go in the front half. A monitor? Or maybe a pico projector to show information on the panel like a heads up display? Something to show all the operating parameters 'under the hood' from a live bios readout while the pc is running? Like that key that ASUS makes for its ROG boards -
http://rog.asus.com/technology/republic-of-gamers-motherboard-innovations/oc-key/

or will the front half be a showcase for an artistic display like a plasma globe or disc - 



or maybe you are going to put some thing analog there-like a fish tank?

That you chose to produce something of such scale reminds me of something Ayn Rand might have done. Still it is only something a woman could get away with. Had a man embarked on something like this, he'd be accused of compensating for other 'shortcomings'. Your skills are epic. Be careful or you will find yourself famous as a poster girl for adafruit industries
http://www.adafruit.com

Cheers,
S


----------



## wthenshaw

Well the three dual pump reservoir combos will be taking up much of the front space


----------



## IT Diva

That's a fact, they pretty much take up all the available space from the motherboard to the back of the optical drive bays.

Hopefully, it will look a bit like a nuclear power plant once it's all plumbed in.

This is the basic fitting of the pump assemblies:



It's a pretty tight squeeze:



Here's the assembled pump/res assemblies with a plumbing configuration that fits in the amount of vertical space available.

The vertical riser tubes come up behind the top rad and extend slightly above it so I have fill / vent points for all 3 loops:



Here they are with the actual red white and blue color ready to install once I get the mirrored back panel in place.

The riser tubes install after the pump assemblies are in place, so I keep them capped as in the pic, when not installed:



It's just wicked hot and miserable here in the tropics during the peak summer months, so I try to get electronics projects done at that time, as they take less "shop time".

This has been the summer's project:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1395117/diy-voltage-controlled-scalable-pwm-controller

And a bit of an off-shoot it spawned:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1411639/precision-pwm-controller-for-martins-liquid-lab

It'll be cooling off a bit here in the coming weeks, so I'll be back to working on the Stretch and the Mix 'n Match Twins builds soon.

Sorry for the lack of recent updates, I'll catch up soon.

Darlene


----------



## wthenshaw

They look amazing, once again great work Darlene,

I must have missed it somewhere but what fans ar you using on the rads?


----------



## bwana

That big hole for the CPU socket in the forward bay needs something to hide it.
A mirror?
An iPad?
A thin monitor to display alternating video feeds of cameras showing different views from inside the case?
A raspberry pi inside a spherical glass bubble that could be 'baby'?

Ok that last idea was over the top,


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bwana*
> 
> That big hole for the CPU socket in the forward bay needs something to hide it.
> A mirror?
> An iPad?
> A thin monitor to display alternating video feeds of cameras showing different views from inside the case?
> A raspberry pi inside a spherical glass bubble that could be 'baby'?
> 
> Ok that last idea was over the top,


The middle res will be full of what looks like pastel white, plus the back panel will be mirrored I think? Not entirely sure it's been a while since I read the rest of the log


----------



## hollowtek

Limo party!!!! Someone bring the ladies and champagne!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bwana*
> 
> That big hole for the CPU socket in the forward bay needs something to hide it.
> A mirror?
> An iPad?
> A thin monitor to display alternating video feeds of cameras showing different views from inside the case?
> A raspberry pi inside a spherical glass bubble that could be 'baby'?
> 
> Ok that last idea was over the top,
> 
> 
> 
> The middle res will be full of what looks like pastel white, plus the back panel will be mirrored I think? Not entirely sure it's been a while since I read the rest of the log
Click to expand...

The middle one is Ice White pastel, the red and blue are Aurora with all the silver pearl filtered out, which makes it the same as X1, according to Mayhem.

And you are correct, the entire back, top to bottom, from under the mobo to the optical drive bays will be mirror acrylic.

The gullwing side window will be two way mirror, so everything inside when the fans all light it up, will have that infinite depth effect.

Darlene

The fans are Aerocool Sharks. I choose them for the clear bodies and bright white LEDs so they light up the rads and inside the case for the most infinite mirror effect, let the copper tubes and fins of the rads show nicely, and interestingly enough, they performed very well, better than expected, on the fan testing I did for the rad fans for the Mix 'n Match builds.

They beat out the fairly popular 140 BGears considerably.


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The middle one is Ice White pastel, the red and blue are Aurora with all the silver pearl filtered out, which makes it the same as X1, according to Mayhem.
> 
> And you are correct, the entire back, top to bottom, from under the mobo to the optical drive bays will be mirror acrylic.
> 
> The gullwing side window will be two way mirror, so everything inside when the fans all light it up, will have that infinite depth effect.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> The fans are Aerocool Sharks. I choose them for the clear bodies and bright white LEDs so they light up the rads and inside the case for the most infinite mirror effect, let the copper tubes and fins of the rads show nicely, and interestingly enough, they performed very well, better than expected, on the fan testing I did for the rad fans for the Mix 'n Match builds.
> 
> They beat out the fairly popular 140 BGears considerably.


All sounds very awesome, looking forward to the future updates.

Are they 140 or 120?

I've got a H100 coming and the obvious choice for me currently is Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 but if there's any white led fans that perform reasonably well they would match my theme better.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> All sounds very awesome, looking forward to the future updates.
> 
> Are they 140 or 120?
> 
> I've got a H100 coming and the obvious choice for me currently is Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 but if there's any white led fans that perform reasonably well they would match my theme better.


IMO it's better looking to use plain black fans and deck it out with LED strips


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> IMO it's better looking to use plain black fans and deck it out with LED strips


You got any pics/ links of examples?

I already have white LED strips in my case so I'm not entirely sure what I'll do yet


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The middle one is Ice White pastel, the red and blue are Aurora with all the silver pearl filtered out, which makes it the same as X1, according to Mayhem.
> 
> And you are correct, the entire back, top to bottom, from under the mobo to the optical drive bays will be mirror acrylic.
> 
> The gullwing side window will be two way mirror, so everything inside when the fans all light it up, will have that infinite depth effect.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> The fans are Aerocool Sharks. I choose them for the clear bodies and bright white LEDs so they light up the rads and inside the case for the most infinite mirror effect, let the copper tubes and fins of the rads show nicely, and interestingly enough, they performed very well, better than expected, on the fan testing I did for the rad fans for the Mix 'n Match builds.
> 
> They beat out the fairly popular 140 BGears considerably.
> 
> 
> 
> All sounds very awesome, looking forward to the future updates.
> 
> Are they 140 or 120?
> 
> I've got a H100 coming and the obvious choice for me currently is Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 but if there's any white led fans that perform reasonably well they would match my theme better.
Click to expand...

The ones in the Stretch are all 140's, but they are available in 120 as well.

If you want them to go on an H100, I'd paint it white.

Darlene


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The ones in the Stretch are all 140's, but they are available in 120 as well.
> 
> If you want them to go on an H100, I'd paint it white.
> 
> Darlene


Hmm, tempting, thanks for this.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> You got any pics/ links of examples?
> 
> I already have white LED strips in my case so I'm not entirely sure what I'll do yet


Err ... I know i do


The bottom picture is what my rig used to look like


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Err ... I know i do
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bottom picture is what my rig used to look like


Shouldn't really be derailing this thread but this is what I've got so far, Black and white NZXT stock fans (For the mean time only!)


----------



## Wibble360

I'd keep those - they look good and match your build well.

Looking good Darlene, I hadn't put my head round the door of this log in a while, pics look superb!

What's the estimated completion date, approximately?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wibble360*
> 
> I'd keep those - they look good and match your build well.
> 
> Looking good Darlene, I hadn't put my head round the door of this log in a while, pics look superb!
> 
> What's the estimated completion date, approximately?


It'll be finished this fall sometime.

Last year when I did the Switch 810 build, I took a relative break during the hot summer months, which really was good for the build because you just don't do as nice, or creative a job, when you're miserably uncomfortable and unmotivated as when you're refreshed and recharged.

Darlene


----------



## Phelan

Looking awesome as usual Darlene!


----------



## mizzousoccerfan

Subbed


----------



## Mike SIlver

Late but subbed


----------



## IT Diva

Thanks for keeping up with the thread guys, and my apologies for the lack of updates during the summer months, both here and the Mix 'n Match Twins builds, but I needed to spend some time on the electronics stuff and have a bit of a life.

I've been ordering some new stuff as I have a couple little additions in mind, (moar rads







), and maybe replacing the 820 base with some nice lighted acrylic runners.

I also decided to nix the 24V pump power PSU and just use a 12V one, which means a couple little redesigns on the pcb that supplies the 5V power to the displays for the fan and pump speed/flow rates.

I should have new pics with the new additions a little later this month.

Darlene


----------



## crazysurfanz

This is awesome ... so OTT and I love the little custom electronics bits









I've read through the whole thread over the last little while...and put together the following of all the updates.... this picks up from where the current index in post 2 left off....


Spoiler: Index



Infinite mirrors and lit up fans
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/400_40#post_19303215

Actuators and res placement, side window panel mock up
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/400_40#post_19314222

Removing the feet?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/400_40#post_19322529

Mystery boxes arrive, and new PSU
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/400_40#post_19331336

NZXT 1000w psu details
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/400_40#post_19339432

More PSU talk
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/440_40#post_19343868

New Reservoir assembly
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/440_40#post_19367337

A bit more on the window mock up and hinges
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/440_40#post_19371059

Update on gullwing side window (with video!)
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/440_40#post_19371158

Possible 120mm res solution
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/440_40#post_19390477
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/440_40#post_19399664

Remote control?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/440_40#post_19422599

Side window materials
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/440_40#post_19422788

Remote control test
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/480_40#post_19424064

PCB etching
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/480_40#post_19424308

PSU setup details
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/480_40#post_19426803

More progress on the side window panel
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/480_40#post_19428767

Another weekend of hard labor (with more video!)
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/480_40#post_19485737

More remote details
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/480_40#post_19486207

Window Flex?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/480_40#post_19489542

Window auto raise
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/480_40#post_19508529

Actuator speed
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/480_40#post_19521814

Window Stress plates (and more video!)
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/480_40#post_19539730

Pump/res placement/mounting
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/520_40#post_19592077

Dress plan
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/520_40#post_19596511

Intro to the '630' mix n match builds
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/520_40#post_19700747

New kit!
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/520_40#post_19741816

progress report
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/520_40#post_19746587

res/pump assemblies
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/520_40#post_19748715

pump noise
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/520_40#post_19749382

maxtrix GPUs hiding in the switch 810 build
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/560_40#post_19772510

'630' ideas
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/560_40#post_19788376

notes on the '630's
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/560_40#post_19824058
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/560_40#post_19867679
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/560_40#post_19868173

the mustang!
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/560_40#post_19869927

Aurora update
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/600_40#post_19894173

flow meters and displays
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/600_40#post_20192713

flow meters and res assemblies
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/600_40#post_20254096
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/600_40#post_20256093

review of Phobya MaxGuide 6 Dualbay Fan/Pump VFD Controller
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/600_40#post_20256271

update with no updates
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/600_40#post_20398086

aurora/pastels
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/640_40#post_20410745

Minor updates
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/640_40#post_20640222
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/640_40#post_20641771
http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/640_40#post_20739625


----------



## IT Diva

Thanks man,

+ Rep

Darlene


----------



## DarkPyro

I really like what you are doing here and the suspense is killing me!









Subscribed.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkPyro*
> 
> I really like what you are doing here and *the suspense is killing me*!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Subscribed.


To ease everyone's suspense, or maybe just increase it a bit . . . . .









Moar rads and fans have been arriving, along with some fittings and other trinkets, . . .

The mobo will be getting a rad of its own, and the dual circuit 840 on the bottom will become a single circuit rad for a pair of GPU's

And I built another little remote control, like the one for the fans and side window actuators, for the pumps' PSU and pump speeds.

And I have next week, (or at least most of it) as vacation time so I can get some meaningful work accomplished.

Wooo Hoooooooo . . . . T G I F

Stay tuned for the sweet insanity . . . . . . .























Darlene


----------



## wthenshaw

It's bad grammar to start a sentence with "and"








Looking forward to updates on this beast


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> *It's bad grammar to start a sentence with "and"*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to updates on this beast


Ahhhhh, . . . . .

Wait for it . . . . . . .

but look at how it adds to the suspense and drama









Darlene


----------



## VarmoesCletovae

Hey Darlene!

Pretty sick build you got here! I think i joined Overclock.net only to follow your thread! haha Keep up with this awesome work!







*im kinda jaleous*

Cheers!

V.


----------



## VarmoesCletovae

You should put a HPTX mobo in that case! :3

But really nice build! I think i joined Overclock's forums just for you haha! Keep it up with the good work! So excited to see more!

V.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VarmoesCletovae*
> 
> You should put a HPTX mobo in that case! :3
> 
> But really nice build! I think i joined Overclock's forums just for you haha! Keep it up with the good work! So excited to see more!
> 
> V.


I had planned from early on to go with a RIVE, seeing that there's a Black Edition coming out about the end of next month, I'll surely go with that.

Hopefully, the MIPS mobo block I picked up already for the RIVE fits the BE as well.

I really looked at the dual processor boards, but the socket 2011 Zeon's don't allow for overclocking, and SR-1 is just too old a technology at this point to justify the cost for a new build if you don't already have one.

Darlene


----------



## VarmoesCletovae

Oh okay! I see! Well... at least you have something beasty with the Rampage!


----------



## wthenshaw

Updates Darlene?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Updates Darlene?


Funny you should ask . . . . .

It's finally started to cool off enough to get some work done, and I've been slowly doing a bit behind the scenes here to have some new stuff ready to install and such.

I've had to do some re-arranging of the custom electronics boards to make them all fit and integrate.

As I mentioned a few pages back, MOAR rads have landed and the motherboard loop will now has its own rad, and the lower 840 that was configured as a dual circuit is now a single circuit just for the lower two GPUs.

Until I get some more pics taken, I'll just leave this:













I used two of the single circuit 240 rads to make the 480, so that I could have a pair of single circuit end caps to convert the lower 840 from dual to single circuit.

Darlene


----------



## Enky

This build is insane! I spent an hour and a half to get from page 1 to 69 without even reading much of it just looking at the pictures.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Funny you should ask . . . . .
> 
> It's finally started to cool off enough to get some work done, and I've been slowly doing a bit behind the scenes here to have some new stuff ready to install and such.
> 
> I've had to do some re-arranging of the custom electronics boards to make them all fit and integrate.
> 
> As I mentioned a few pages back, MOAR rads have landed and the motherboard loop will now has its own rad, and the lower 840 that was configured as a dual circuit is now a single circuit just for the lower two GPUs.
> 
> Until I get some more pics taken, I'll just leave this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used two of the single circuit 240 rads to make the 480, so that I could have a pair of single circuit end caps to convert the lower 840 from dual to single circuit.
> 
> Darlene


Finally somebody actually utilizing the AMS rads' capabilities to be, well, modular.









This is definitely one of the more unique (and well executed) case mods I've come across yet.

Quick question: How long are those two 240's when coupled together? I've always been
wondering about the length of a combined AMS module. Thanks!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Funny you should ask . . . . .
> 
> It's finally started to cool off enough to get some work done, and I've been slowly doing a bit behind the scenes here to have some new stuff ready to install and such.
> 
> I've had to do some re-arranging of the custom electronics boards to make them all fit and integrate.
> 
> As I mentioned a few pages back, MOAR rads have landed and the motherboard loop will now has its own rad, and the lower 840 that was configured as a dual circuit is now a single circuit just for the lower two GPUs.
> 
> Until I get some more pics taken, I'll just leave this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used two of the single circuit 240 rads to make the 480, so that I could have a pair of single circuit end caps to convert the lower 840 from dual to single circuit.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Finally somebody actually utilizing the AMS rads' capabilities to be, well, modular.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is definitely one of the more unique (and well executed) case mods I've come across yet.
> 
> Quick question: How long are those two 240's when coupled together? I've always been
> wondering about the length of a combined AMS module. Thanks!
Click to expand...

Putting 2 X 240's together adds 26mm to what a single 480 would have been.

550mm versus 524mm

Depending on what you need to install it into, it may or may not be a serious problem, as it will not fit into a space designed for a 480, and half the mounting holes don't line up.

It took careful planning to graft the 3 cases together so that all the rad mounting holes aligned properly for the 2 X 420, 840 rads.

Darlene


----------



## FannBlade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It took careful planning to graft the 3 cases together so that all the rad mounting holes aligned properly for the 2 X 420, 840 rads.Darlene


Great pre-planning!

Love those rads...they look so high-tech.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Putting 2 X 240's together adds 26mm to what a single 480 would have been.
> 
> 550mm versus 524mm
> 
> Depending on what you need to install it into, it may or may not be a serious problem, as it will not fit into a space designed for a 480, and half the mounting holes don't line up.
> 
> It took careful planning to graft the 3 cases together so that all the rad mounting holes aligned properly for the 2 X 420, 840 rads.
> 
> Darlene


Yeah, the not-lining up part was quite evident, but I just wasn't sure about total length.
Thanks for the info, exactly what I needed to know.


----------



## Zooty Cat

Nice pics over in the water cooling club.







Thing are coming along nicely.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zooty Cat*
> 
> Nice pics over in the water cooling club.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thing are coming along nicely.










Blown away by the sheer epicness. Love those reservoirs....:


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Zooty Cat*
> 
> Nice pics over in the water cooling club.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thing are coming along nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blown away by the sheer epicness. Love those reservoirs....:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Here's a couple pics of the dual res adapter blocks where you can see the transfer passage from the left res port to the right res/pump feed port:





Darlene


----------



## wermad

puts me to shame on my lowly skills







. Such attention to detail


----------



## FannBlade

Hmm, color matched o-rings!


----------



## kingchris

good to see you up and running again with the build!


----------



## IT Diva

Thanks everyone for the encouraging words
















Darlene


----------



## Gleniu

This is epic


----------



## Bart

Ugh, so sexy, and so OCDetailed.


----------



## wthenshaw

How's the build coming Darlene?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> How's the build coming Darlene?


Sorry for the lack of updates, . . .

I've actually been quite busy in the background these last weeks since it's cooled off some.

Made a bunch of new stuff to manage the cable management side with the auxiliary power supplies and such.

Put a Lian Li PSU extension on to set the PSU back enough to get a drain setup on the lower rad.

Pulled it all apart for paint work that's now mostly done, and had the side window film put on and made the mirror back panel.

I'm really excited to see if the infinite reflection effect works as well as hoped.

All the components should be here by next week, except the GPU waterblocks that are out of stock, but ordered, and the mobo block which should be out mid December.

I'm on vacation next week, so I should be getting it assembled then.

I'll have time to do a serious update here to the build log as I progress. . . . . . I've just been so tired and beat by the time I work thru the weekend and get to Sunday night, I've not been keeping up here as I should.

I did however, remember to take lots of pics along the way, so I won't leave anything out.

Darlene


----------



## feznz

I am excited to see the finished project


----------



## IT Diva

Alright, a fresh new page and lots to share























It's been quite a long while since the last meaningful update, but I've been busy and beating a path to the poor house.

Sheeeeeesh, this project has blown all concepts of the term budget well past oblivion.

On the plus side, it's been an incredible experience and almost better than sex . . . . Though maybe at my age, that's not the best thing for a comparison.

At this point, everything, save for a few fittings and the Aquaero 6, have been ordered or are already here.

And of course we're all waiting on EK to ship the RIVBE mobo block!

I'm still also waiting on the CPU which should be here by next week and the 4 GPU water blocks and back plates that should ship from FCPU as soon as they arrive there.

In the meantime, I've got all the chassis parts and new additions all painted up and polished ready to go.

I have to wait for a few more of the parts orders to arrive before I can test run the mobo to be sure it's OK and that all 8 ram slots and ram sticks work OK.

Then I can install all the ram blocks and run the mobo tubing before installing the mobo in the case.

Once the mobo is piped, I'll be able to get a measurement for the rear panel pass-thrus, I want to drill and install them before I assemble the case so it doesn't make a mess that's impossible to clean up.

Anyway, here's some pics of the major parts waiting to be assembled:

It's hardly worth working this hard for so long on case mods without having some real horsepower under the hood;

The new RIVBE mobo, with 32GB of Dominator waiting for the 4930K to arrive.

And for a totally kickazz eyefinity setup, 4 MSI R9-290X GPU's.



All cases have to start at the bottom, here's the bottom chassis panel ready to build on:



And no lower chassis panel is complete without a rad to mount on it.
The polished aluminum rails are what the res/pump modules mount in:



And the top chassis panel:



You can hardly tell they aren't factory original









Since the gullwing side window hangs and pivots on 4 small hinges along the edge of the top panel, I added some stress distribution tabs where the hinges attach:





Of course there needs to be a nice mobo panel to mount such a pretty mobo on:



And of course the "almost famous", remote control power operated gullwing side window:



Matched by the right side panel with some extra tweaks to allow for the 3 auxiliary power supplies:



Here's a pic during the mockup process showing the power supplies. They mount on an acrylic back plane that mounts to the back side of the mobo trays with standoffs. The fan behind the CPU curtout has been changed to a Prolimatech Aluminum Vortex for extra cooling and airflow under the mobo, as the mirror encroaches on the airflow space a little:



And last but not least, the rear chassis panel with some nice mods to support the AMS 480 rad, and a nice custom cover where the nasty azz black rubber grommets used to be.
The fans are now rotated to put the wires on the opposite side for a cleaner appearance.



And a little more detail, you can see the reinforcing channel to keep everything nice and straight:



One of the nice things about this build is all the "extra" parts and chassis bits to use for other purposes.

I have an extra back panel and mobo tray assembled to make it much easier to work on piping the system and getting the fittings setup just right:



That's all for a while, gotta wait patiently for MOAR parts to get here.

Darlene


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Alright, a fresh new page and lots to share


Woot woot!







I can't wait to see


----------



## sadeter

I think my refresh is broken. I'm still not seeing any pictures.









Ahh, there they are! Looking forward to seeing the assembly.


----------



## FannBlade

WOW!! Killer job! Not sure what else I can say.


----------



## wermad

Sweet!









So what's the deal w/ dual psu? I hear some knowledgeable folks say its not ideal for 24/7 use. I ended scrapping my idea of two psu (NZXT 1000w) in favor of a single larger unit. But I know some ppl that run dual psu all the time for their high-end systems.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sweet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the deal w/ dual psu? I hear some knowledgeable folks say its not ideal for 24/7 use. I ended scrapping my idea of two psu (NZXT 1000w) in favor of a single larger unit. But I know some ppl that run dual psu all the time for their high-end systems.


Power is like $0.55 per KWH, so 24/7 would cost a fortune, not counting the fact that it goes out about once a week or so for some unexplained reason . . . . Life in the Islands mon . . .

There's 2 main PSU's, a 750 for the mobo and 1 GPU, and a 1000 for the other 3 GPU's, though I may go to a 1200 on the 3 GPUs.

On the back side there's 2 X 300W 12V, and 1 X 65W, 12V / 5V auxiliary power supplies.

One of the 300's runs all the fans and the aquaero, and can be turned on independently by the remote control.

The other 300 runs all 6 pumps, the flowmeters, and the flowrate and pump's rpm display. It can be turned on/off independently by the RC.

Both turn on automatically if the main system is powered on, which can also be done via the RC

The small 65 stays on 24/7 and provides 5V power for the remote control electronics and 12V for the side window actuators so I can raise the window for access without having to turn on any other system.

Lots of custom electronics, not counting the 3 channel PWM controller . . . that also is tied to RC.

Darlene


----------



## Phelan

WOW You HAVE been busy! Grats on an awesome setup! I love the fit, finish, everything about this build.


----------



## P1kk3wyn

that was worth the wait.. cant wait for more


----------



## kpoeticg

Incredible work as always!!!
Love the updates


----------



## DaveLT

This is getting more awesome every update.


----------



## wthenshaw

laaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarvely


----------



## seross69

How did I miss this build log I just spent a sunny day in Indonesia inside reading it all!!! subbed now for sure cant wait to see finished product!!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Alright, a fresh new page and lots to share
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Woot woot!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't wait to see
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sadeter*
> 
> I think my refresh is broken. I'm still not seeing any pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ahh, there they are! Looking forward to seeing the assembly.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade*
> 
> WOW!! Killer job! Not sure what else I can say.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sweet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the deal w/ dual psu? I hear some knowledgeable folks say its not ideal for 24/7 use. I ended scrapping my idea of two psu (NZXT 1000w) in favor of a single larger unit. But I know some ppl that run dual psu all the time for their high-end systems.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> WOW You HAVE been busy! Grats on an awesome setup! I love the fit, finish, everything about this build.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P1kk3wyn*
> 
> that was worth the wait.. cant wait for more


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Incredible work as always!!!
> Love the updates


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> This is getting more awesome every update.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> laaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarvely


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> How did I miss this build log I just spent a sunny day in Indonesia inside reading it all!!! subbed now for sure cant wait to see finished product!!


Welcome back my friends, to the show that never ends . . . .

.





Thank you everyone for the kind words, enthusiasm, and support.

Welcome back to those who've been following and a welcome aboard to the new guys.

It sucks having to wait on parts orders to come in, sucks even more waiting for the mobo block to be released, (EK says mid December) or stock of the GPU blocks to arrive that have already been ordered.

In the meantime, I'll be working on the fan splitter cables, 32 fans total on 8 channels should be no small task.

The Aquaero 6, with its increased amps capability for all 4 channels, will handle the 4 groups of 6 fans on the 840 rads, while the AQ 5LT in slave mode will handle the 2 groups of 4 fans on the rear 480 on 2 chans, with the rear case fan and the "behind the CPU fan" on the other 2 chans.

I know everyone's seen countless tubing arrangements for hard tubing the X79 mobo with dual memory blocks and mosfet/chipset blocks, but somehow, they all seem to run at angles and while most are fairly clean looking, non have managed to have all the piping run in horizontal and vertical directions only, which is what makes for a really sanitary look.

I think I have a scheme that I have yet to see on any build, that makes it possible to plumb the RIVE/RIVBE with all the runs being horizontal or vertical.

Now if my parts would just hurry up and get here . . . . .

I'm off to work on fan cables and splitters for a while, . . . .

Thanks again everyone for your support.

Darlene


----------



## gr3nd3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Welcome back my friends, to the show that never ends . . . .
> 
> .


Thank you this song will now be stuck in my head for the rest of the day








I have to say I am willing to pay that price to keep looking at this build








It is absolutely, mind blowingly amazing!!!


----------



## kingchris

updates. wow, it going together!


----------



## mandrix

Darlene, on the rear chassis piece with the reinforcing panels, looks like standoffs with something conical-shaped sticking up. What is that exactly? Something you fabbed or something trimmed to shape that threads into a standoff?
Reason it caught my eye is because I was going to use something similar to support my case top after raising it higher, but I ended up going a different route.

I see you decided to go with the Aquaero's.....I think you will enjoy having them especially for the data display/charting functions, I suspect.
Anyway it looks like everything is about to come to fruition, congrats on progress.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> updates. wow, it going together!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Darlene, on the rear chassis piece with the reinforcing panels, looks like standoffs with something conical-shaped sticking up. What is that exactly? Something you fabbed or something trimmed to shape that threads into a standoff?
> Reason it caught my eye is because I was going to use something similar to support my case top after raising it higher, but I ended up going a different route.
> 
> I see you decided to go with the Aquaero's.....I think you will enjoy having them especially for the data display/charting functions, I suspect.
> Anyway it looks like everything is about to come to fruition, congrats on progress.


Thanks guys, Yes it's finally coming together.

So many little things on a build like this that aren't really "update" material, that still need to be done and checked before the next little "not really an update" can be worked on.

Once they are all done, then there's something to show.

Sometimes a bit of trial and error engineering, to get things just right, so they work and look decent.

As the assembly progresses, I'll post the pics I took along the way to show how I got the parts that are being assemble to the final form they currently are.

The little pointy standoff thingys are the part of the Koolance external rad mount system. The apparatus that mounts to the rad has a small area on one side to press to release the locking mechanism that locks into the recess below the points.

Open the pic of the rad attached to the panel and enlarge it (a lot) and you can see how the points help to locate the locking holes that they go into.

I used the channel to spread the stress where the slots are for the upper mounting apparatus because the slotted part of the panel is so structurally deficient as it is.

I think the AQ6 will be a big plus for this build.

With so many fans, I really need to have automatic control so that I can let them spin down when there's no need to have that much noise.

I've found that these fans run as slow as 400 rpm, with the led's still on very dimly, and even with 12 of them (my test setup) they were so quiet from 600 and below, that to my old ears, I didn't hear them unless I was within arm's reach.

It's possible. I'll have to actually test, that I have enough rad space to have the fans off and just use passive cooling, for no load tasks like surfing OCN.

Darlene


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks guys, Yes it's finally coming together.
> 
> So many little things on a build like this that aren't really "update" material, that still need to be done and checked before the next little "not really an update" can be worked on.
> 
> Once they are all done, then there's something to show.
> 
> Sometimes a bit of trial and error engineering, to get things just right, so they work and look decent.
> 
> As the assembly progresses, I'll post the pics I took along the way to show how I got the parts that are being assemble to the final form they currently are.
> 
> The little pointy standoff thingys are the part of the Koolance external rad mount system. The apparatus that mounts to the rad has a small area on one side to press to release the locking mechanism that locks into the recess below the points.
> 
> Open the pic of the rad attached to the panel and enlarge it (a lot) and you can see how the points help to locate the locking holes that they go into.
> 
> I used the channel to spread the stress where the slots are for the upper mounting apparatus because the slotted part of the panel is so structurally deficient as it is.
> 
> I think the AQ6 will be a big plus for this build.
> 
> With so many fans, I really need to have automatic control so that I can let them spin down when there's no need to have that much noise.
> 
> I've found that these fans run as slow as 400 rpm, with the led's still on very dimly, and even with 12 of them (my test setup) they were so quiet from 600 and below, that to my old ears, I didn't hear them unless I was within arm's reach.
> 
> It's possible. I'll have to actually test, that I have enough rad space to have the fans off and just use passive cooling, for no load tasks like surfing OCN.
> 
> Darlene


I think you could likely easily turn off all or most fans for surfing....I have 4x480mm rads and I have the fans running around 800 rpm but I'm pretty sure I could switch them off for small tasks. I'm just used to the sound and the air moving around my feet, lol.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Sweet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the deal w/ dual psu? I hear some knowledgeable folks say its not ideal for 24/7 use. I ended scrapping my idea of two psu (NZXT 1000w) in favor of a single larger unit. But I know some ppl that run dual psu all the time for their high-end systems.


It all depends I think... I opted for the dual PSUs myself for the overclocking potential given that my GPUs alone could potentially draw 500W each... general gaming I'd like to stay in the higher efficiency ranges of the PSUs as well







.

Of course IT Diva's approach is just.... on another level entirely lol. I've never even seen such a complex setup in a PC before... maybe in some of the systems I've worked on in the Military/DoD but in a home PC?? Awesome!! The question is, will it say "Hello, Dave"


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> It all depends I think... I opted for the dual PSUs myself for the overclocking potential given that my GPUs alone could potentially draw 500W each... general gaming I'd like to stay in the higher efficiency ranges of the PSUs as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Of course IT Diva's approach is just.... on another level entirely lol. I've never even seen such a complex setup in a PC before... maybe in some of the systems I've worked on in the Military/DoD but in a home PC?? Awesome!! The question is, will it say "Hello, Dave"


I don't know what "Hello, Dave" means but i'll just guess that was pointed at me









If i needed that much PSU i could have done it too ... and probably end up with a extremely torn wallet







(I have the space so why not)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> It all depends I think... I opted for the dual PSUs myself for the overclocking potential given that my GPUs alone could potentially draw 500W each... general gaming I'd like to stay in the higher efficiency ranges of the PSUs as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Of course IT Diva's approach is just.... on another level entirely lol. I've never even seen such a complex setup in a PC before... maybe in some of the systems I've worked on in the Military/DoD but in a home PC?? Awesome!! The question is, will it say "Hello, Dave"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know what "Hello, Dave" means but i'll just guess that was pointed at me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If i needed that much PSU i could have done it too ... and probably end up with a extremely torn wallet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I have the space so why not)
Click to expand...

The "Hello Dave" was from an old science fiction flick, "2001 A Space Odyssey" where the computer, the Hal 9000, talks to the astronaut Dave and takes control of everything.

Darlene


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I don't know what "Hello, Dave" means but i'll just guess that was pointed at me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If i needed that much PSU i could have done it too ... and probably end up with a extremely torn wallet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I have the space so why not)


I assume "Hello Dave" is a reference to 2001: A Space Odyssey, a 1968 film by Stanley Kubrick. A HAL 9000 computer ran the systems on a spaceship sent out into the solar system to investigate a giant monolith, and "Hal" spoke to the crew.
,,,,or else I'm trippin again.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The "Hello Dave" was from an old science fiction flick, "2001 A Space Odyssey" where the computer, the Hal 9000, talks to the astronaut Dave and takes control of everything.
> 
> Darlene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I assume "Hello Dave" is a reference to 2001: A Space Odyssey, a 1968 film by Stanley Kubrick. A HAL 9000 computer ran the systems on a spaceship sent out into the solar system to investigate a giant monolith, and "Hal" spoke to the crew.
> ,,,,or else I'm trippin again.


this children do not remember any of this. I bet they don't have any idea what you guys are talking about. I know it was a great movie..


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> this children do not remember any of this. I bet they don't have any idea what you guys are talking about. I know it was a great movie..


I'm not from the 90's or the new millenia but i forgot my childhood ...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I'm not from the 90's or the new millenia but i forgot my childhood ...


Singapore !! I have had some fun there several times!!! Also get to spend 12 hours there every month. In the airport as I choose not to leave the airport..


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Singapore !! I have had some fun there several times!!! Also get to spend 12 hours there every month. In the airport as I choose not to leave the airport..


Pretty awesome isn't it


----------



## Egami

I have a feeling that the mirrored background will make the loop look epic, especially with the endless mirroring. Really excited to see this come together.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> I have a feeling that the mirrored background will make the loop look epic, especially with the endless mirroring. Really excited to see this come together.


So am I !

And nothing is worse than having to wait on stuff to come when it's finally ready to assemble all the modded/handmade parts you worked on for almost a year with endless trial fittings and mockups . . .









But each day is a day closer . . .

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Little Update . . .

So it's been a marathon long weekend of sleeving fans and making fan splitters/harnesses as new parts have also come in. . . .

So here's some of the new stuff, lots of fittings and Mayhems.

I'll detail what I have planned for some of the new stuff as we get there . . .



As you can see, the build is as modularly constructed as I could make it. The pump/res setups are modules, the mobo with all its waterblocks and piping will be a module, the rear 480 rad is essentially a module in that it connects with QD and the fan harness plugs and unplugs at the upper bracket.

Each module is plumbed with Bitspower and E22 tubing, but the longer runs that interconnect the modules will be in 1/2" tube with Primochill Revolver fittings to make assembly easier.

Since I have 3 loops, Red - White - & Blue, I got the colored Revolver fittings to match the loop coolant color for the interconnects.



I'm not a real big fan of rear mounted rads, so since I needed to put one there, I really wanted to make it look as nice as possible.

I tried to modularize it as much as possible by using QD's to connect it, and white fittings and pass-thru's to match the white case.

The fans are sleeved in white and have a plug for each group to connect to the internal harness that I plan to route thru the rear panel via white Bitspower fittings and acrylic tubing.

Here's the internal harness (blue) for 2 channels of the Aquaero 5LT with the pass thru harness and fittings (white):



Here's the QD hardware setup:



And the rear 480 rad:



And the little niche where I spend way to much time making cables and sleeving:



And a test run of some of the newly made goodies,

Notice the 2 left fans on the top rad are a bit different, they are 20mm thick, and I hope I can squeeze them in with a bit of modding to the frames by the 8 pin /4 pin connectors.

They are still white LEDs like the other fans, and light right above the mobo should look really nice.



I'm still waiting on waterblocks and an order from MODDIY, so more things should move forward during the week.

Thanks for watching,

Darlene


----------



## S1lv3rflame

No offence, but how the F'ing hell can you afford such awesomeness and crazyness?!


----------



## Lourad

WOW, just WOW.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Little Update . . .
> 
> So it's been a marathon long weekend of sleeving fans and making fan splitters/harnesses as new parts have also come in. . . .
> 
> So here's some of the new stuff, lots of fittings and Mayhems.
> 
> I'll detail what I have planned for some of the new stuff as we get there . . .
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, the build is as modularly constructed as I could make it. The pump/res setups are modules, the mobo with all its waterblocks and piping will be a module, the rear 480 rad is essentially a module in that it connects with QD and the fan harness plugs and unplugs at the upper bracket.
> 
> Each module is plumbed with Bitspower and E22 tubing, but the longer runs that interconnect the modules will be in 1/2" tube with Primochill Revolver fittings to make assembly easier.
> 
> Since I have 3 loops, Red - White - & Blue, I got the colored Revolver fittings to match the loop coolant color for the interconnects.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not a real big fan of rear mounted rads, so since I needed to put one there, I really wanted to make it look as nice as possible.
> 
> I tried to modularize it as much as possible by using QD's to connect it, and white fittings and pass-thru's to match the white case.
> 
> The fans are sleeved in white and have a plug for each group to connect to the internal harness that I plan to route thru the rear panel via white Bitspower fittings and acrylic tubing.
> 
> Here's the internal harness (blue) for 2 channels of the Aquaero 5LT with the pass thru harness and fittings (white):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the QD hardware setup:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rear 480 rad:
> 
> 
> 
> And the little niche where I spend way to much time making cables and sleeving:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a test run of some of the newly made goodies,
> 
> Notice the 2 left fans on the top rad are a bit different, they are 20mm thick, and I hope I can squeeze them in with a bit of modding to the frames by the 8 pin /4 pin connectors.
> 
> They are still white LEDs like the other fans, and light right above the mobo should look really nice.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still waiting on waterblocks and an order from MODDIY, so more things should move forward during the week.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Darlene


What are those boxes on the opposite side of the 480 Rad???


----------



## IT Diva

Those are the Koolance external rad mounting brackets.

Usually, you'd just use 1, but that rad is really large, heavy, and awkward, so I opted for a second one for a much more secure mount.

The QD's will come thru the back chassis panel about mid-height of the upper bracket.

Darlene

A couple more views for clarity:


----------



## wthenshaw

Wait so this rad will be hanging off the back of the case?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Wait so this rad will be hanging off the back of the case?


Yep, no other place to put it . . . At least it doesn't stick up above the top of the case, so it's well back out of the way.

Like it isn't long enough already . . .

This one is for the CPU and all the mobo blocks.

This will be the red coolant color loop.

Darlene


----------



## seross69

I see now, thanks for this.. yeah I agree it would be a little heavy for 1 with the 480 full of water....


----------



## wthenshaw




----------



## JohanXDash

just spent about an hour reading through this build log








This is freaking amazing.








cant wait to see the end result
what plans have you got for this beast?
and what happened to our lil mini itx friend? ( i may have skipped over a few parts and missed info)
oh yeah, Greetings from Trinidad/The Caribbean
and Subbed.


----------



## McMogg

How have you managed to combine 3 cases, and still need an external radiator!?

Looks good, I love the attention to colour themeing


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McMogg*
> 
> How have you managed to combine 3 cases, and still need an external radiator!?
> 
> Looks good, I love the attention to colour themeing


It's called overkill on purpose while excess overkill even further


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohanXDash*
> 
> just spent about an hour reading through this build log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is freaking amazing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cant wait to see the end result
> what plans have you got for this beast?
> *and what happened to our lil mini itx friend?* ( i may have skipped over a few parts and missed info)
> oh yeah, Greetings from Trinidad/The Caribbean
> and Subbed.


That was kinda cute, although it was meant more as a somewhat lighthearted bit of comedy relief.

Once I see what scraps and discards I still have when the Stretch is finished, I may revisit that idea again with a more serious mindset.

Anyone for the new Mini ITX Phantom 8.20 . . . . .















Darlene


----------



## JohanXDash

if the dimensions were right, id soooo do an mini itx build in that


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohanXDash*
> 
> just spent about an hour reading through this build log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is freaking amazing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cant wait to see the end result
> what plans have you got for this beast?
> *and what happened to our lil mini itx friend?* ( i may have skipped over a few parts and missed info)
> oh yeah, Greetings from Trinidad/The Caribbean
> and Subbed.


Psst....
http://www.overclock.net/t/1340033/build-log-mini-me-itx-nzxt-phantom-with-4770k-impact-7990-all-watercooled-in-14l/360


----------



## IT Diva

Wooo Hooooo























Looks like Santa came early, again . .

Fat bastard use my credit card again too . . . .

Oh well, it's OK . . . considering the cool stuff he brought.

3 of the 4 GPU blocks,

An Aquaero 6 XT

A NZXT 1200W PSU

Yet another bag of fittings . . .

Still waiting on 4 backplates, 1 more GPU block, another AQ6 and the mobo block.

At least the "It's here" list is wayyy bigger than the "On order" list finally.

I'll be polishing the GPU blocks to match the already polished bridges this weekend.



I have the new mobo set up in my ghetto tech bench to be sure everything works OK before putting the blocks on.

I'll test each of the GPU's next so they're ready to install the blocks on as soon as they are all polished.





Stay tuned, we're getting ready to Rock 'n Roll!

Darlene


----------



## wthenshaw

Mmmhmhmmhm larvley


----------



## kingchris

damn santa using your credit card! looks like he knows what hes buying though


----------



## wermad

Looking sweet! Love those reservoirs. One on the right looks like its ready for some Piña Colada









Btw, thank you for the indirect "persuasion" on switching from 5/8 od tube to 3/4" for my Th10







.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> damn santa using your credit card! looks like he knows what hes buying though


When I was a young hot chick, I could bribe him with sex to overlook all my "naughties", now that I'm a lot closer to medicare than being a young hot chick, I find the CC works better. ( I think he checks my wish lists)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looking sweet! Love those reservoirs. One on the right looks like its ready for some Piña Colada
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, thank you for the indirect "persuasion" on switching from 5/8 od tube to 3/4" for my Th10
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


My comment to luna got ya ta thinkin', eh?

I doubt there'd be _that_ much difference between 5/8 and 3/4, but the case is so big, I just thought that using 3/8 would have looked like stringy spaghetti.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

I just couldn't let all those shiny new goodies sit there after having gotten so excited opening the boxes, and I couldn't not work on something, even though I had to get up for work in the morning, so I polished the links for the 3 out of 4 GPU blocks that came, and then I just had to do one of the GPU blocks to see how it would look . . . . I already did the bridges.

What a pain it was to get it back together, with the squirrely friggin' O rings . . But I was confident that it had gone back together properly, but I figured I better leak test it to be absolutely sure. . . . short night's sleep comin' . . .

They frost both sides of the acrylic, so you have to tear it down and polish both sides to make it clear.

Been running for a while now on a D5S and no trace of a leak..

I'm pretty pleased with the way it came out as well.

Now that I've done the first one and figured out a system to get the O rings in right, the next 3 won't be so bad . . . I hope . . .

Darlene







When I had it apart, the one thing I noticed is that the machining of the slots/fins is really quite rough.

I can not see how this can't lead to issues with the nickel plating.

You need a smooth surface for good deposition.

If they had used a wire brush to dress the fin/slot machining area, no doubt it would have felt a lot smoother to the touch.

Just my thoughts,

Darlene


----------



## wthenshaw

Those blocks look nice


----------



## Egami

Gorgeous stuffs and interesting thoughts on the blocks. Do you think this might explain the thin plating values B-Neg has reported or once the surface is rough, does the thickness of the plating become negligible vs how well it deposits in the first place?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Gorgeous stuffs and interesting thoughts on the blocks. Do you think this might explain the thin plating values B-Neg has reported or once the surface is rough, does the thickness of the plating become negligible vs how well it deposits in the first place?


I'm thinking that on a rough surface with easy to feel burrs, it had to be that way before the EN plating, and as soon as some of the burrs break off, or are eroded off from flow, then there's exposed copper to be reacted with, and an edge where flow can work to peel the nickel away from.

It's either piss poor quality control to let machining marks like that make it to the end product, or that block was an exception . . . . .

We'll know which after I've done the next ones.









Darlene


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Man wayyy back when I had my Phantom 820 I was drooling over this build and now I've moved onto my MM Ascension I've still been checking back periodically and just can't believe that you've been working on it for so long now! How does it feel building something that you KNOW will immediately be dubbed MOTM??









Don't understand how I haven't subscribed in all the months I've been following this.... so here it is.

SUBBED


----------



## Egami

How were the blocks?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> How were the blocks?


The next two were about the same as the first, so it's either a lack of finishing, or they figure it helps promote turbulence and better cooling . . . .


----------



## IT Diva

Wooo Hooooooo . . .

Now the good part . .

I'll go back and fill in a lot of gaps and chronicle the re-assembly now that all the parts are made and fitted with just some minor mod work to go along the way.

BUT, . . . . .

I made good progress on putting it all back together for what should be the go-live time, and once the internal rads were in and the fans connected to the splitters I had already made up, I had to test run them of course, and I just had to see how the infinite reflection effect was going to look . . .

Daaaammmmmmmmmmmnnnnnnnn . . .

It came out beyond expectations. . . . . So I had to shot a couple pics to show off a lil'.

The top trim pieces are not snapped down, they are just sitting on top so the top fan LEDs don't overpower the camera.

Hope you like it, I don't think I have ever seen this mod done before, and along with the gullwing it looks soooo cool.

Darlene


----------



## Citra

Never seen this implemented on a computer case before. Looks AWESOME!


----------



## seross69

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## CptAsian

*drools uncontrollably*


----------



## kpoeticg

I've never seen that done before either, but since you showed that pic that you got the inspiration from in the WC Club a while back, i've been planning on making an inside wall of my build like that. I won't do it if you'd get upset, since its your mod and i got the idea from you. But since the XB's kinda SFF, i think it'll be great for making the inside look roomier.

Well the plan is to "Attempt" it anyway. It might be a bit ambitious since my XB's top window is my entire amount of experience working with plexi so far









Anyway, between the automated window & the mirrored light panel, that's 2 mods i don't think any of us have seen in a pc b4, that you executed flawlessly. Good stuff

If you want me not to bite your idea just say the word and i won't. I'll def give you credit for the idea tho....


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Ridiculous. Nothing more. Nothing less. Well actually, SO MUCH MORE!

You are the modding Queen! and as the Queen your modding skills outweigh all of the kings!

Just one comment that I forgot to mention before. I hope you have a forklift to move this build!


----------



## Egami

New pants time
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The next two were about the same as the first, so it's either a lack of finishing, or they figure it helps promote turbulence and better cooling . . . .


Call it a feature, like with dead pixels, and the problem ceases to be no more...


----------



## wthenshaw

Simply incredible Darlene!

Amy chance of us getting another YouTube video like the last one where you showed off the gullwing door a while back?


----------



## kingchris

wow, and lets just leave it at that shall we!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I've never seen that done before either, but since you showed that pic that you got the inspiration from in the WC Club a while back, i've been planning on making an inside wall of my build like that. I won't do it if you'd get upset, since its your mod and i got the idea from you. But since the XB's kinda SFF, i think it'll be great for making the inside look roomier.
> 
> Well the plan is to "Attempt" it anyway. It might be a bit ambitious since my XB's top window is my entire amount of experience working with plexi so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, between the automated window & the mirrored light panel, that's 2 mods i don't think any of us have seen in a pc b4, that you executed flawlessly. Good stuff
> 
> If you want me not to bite your idea just say the word and i won't. I'll def give you credit for the idea tho....


I think imitation, is the highest form of flattery.

I certainly can't "own" a "DIVA" mod, and would like much more to see others refine and build on something I did first.

No doubt it can be improved on.

Now that I know how cool it looks, I have an upgrade plan myself, but didn't want to spend what it costs to buy and ship acrylic here from the states on just an idea. Since I'm pretty limited on what resources I can get down here, I went with what I could put together locally for the first try.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Ridiculous. Nothing more. Nothing less. Well actually, SO MUCH MORE!
> 
> You are the modding Queen! and as the Queen your modding skills outweigh all of the kings!
> 
> Just one comment that I forgot to mention before. I hope you have a forklift to move this build!


Actually, I just moved it from the work table onto the wheeled cart to make it easier to work on and move around.

I know there's still a lot more to go into it, but it isn't really all that uber heavy as many seem to imagine.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Simply incredible Darlene!
> 
> Amy chance of us getting another YouTube video like the last one where you showed off the gullwing door a while back?


I want to get it further along with the pumps and res's in it, and probably the mobo and all, so it has some color and realistic appearance before I do a video.

If I do a video now, it won't have much of an impact, but it'll be enough to keep a lot of viewers from paying attention to the next one.

Only one chance to make that first impression, so I want to make sure it's a bold one.

I'll be working on the lower PSU / rad cover and the front drive cages/PSU cover, so the build has a more connected look.

Planning to do the lower cover with a mirrored section over the PSU, and clear alongside the rad.

The front bays cover will also be mirror.

Now a sneak preview of the next Diva mod, that I think is original to me, is light panels on the backplates of all 4 GPU's (and on the PSU cover) to make the polished water blocks really pop and illuminate all the mobo blocks and plumbing.

I went to a LOT of effort to disassemble and polish the full cover GPU blocks, I want it to really show:





These little gems, are ~3.5" X ~9.5", only1/8" thick, run on 12V, respond really well to reduced voltage dimming, and I could wire then to the mobo fan headers and use the fan software to control the brightness with minimal visible wiring.

http://na.suzohapp.com/gaming_products/gaming_parts/70-36594-00?SS=ON



This build has me soooo excited, so far it's everything I planned and hoped for, and then some . . . .

Darlene

Still waiting on the last GPU block and backplates to get here. FCPU sent a partial order of the 3 blocks, and there's another package in transit now, hopefully it will be everything to complete the original order.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I think imitation, is the highest form of flattery.
> 
> I certainly can't "own" a "DIVA" mod, and would like much more to see others refine and build on something I did first.
> 
> No doubt it can be improved on.
> 
> Now that I know how cool it looks, I have an upgrade plan myself, but didn't want to spend what it costs to buy and ship acrylic here from the states on just an idea. Since I'm pretty limited on what resources I can get down here, I went with what I could put together locally for the first try.


I know you can't "OWN" it, and OCN is really meant for everybody to inspire and improve each others work. But when i get an idea directly from some1 elses work, in a build log that's still live, i like to at least know they don't mind. Especially with the originality and creativity you put into your mods.

I'm still not positive if i'm gonna be able to make it work with my setup, but if i do, it's probly gonna be more like that picture you showed explaining it a while back. With the Opaque Black Panel behind the semi transparent panel and the guy had some led's in front it i think. It's been one of my possible plans since then. I definitely won't be improving upon it though LOLLL

Anyway, absolutely incredible work as ALWAYS. This log has definitely surpassed EPIC status


----------



## kpforce1

That mirrored acrylic is fantastic! Love it. I had pondered using the mobo fan headers for lighting at one point as well







then I ended up with ELwire







. Its kind of a pain really... pretty yes, but you have to run serial connections, blah blah.... not mention it operates at high frequency... The resulting EMI is potentially bad enough that I would have to shield certain things when overclocking lol.

I can't wait to see your rig completely done. I think you have earned your own "term" here on OCN lol.









*Definition of Diva* - Astonishingly wonderful; Utterly unbelievable in the flawless execution of mod perfection; A technological marvel









*Example*: That mod is so "Diva"


----------



## sinnedone

Very nice work with the mirror. When you first started doing this it never occurred to me the reflection would use the inside of the window as another reflective surface and keep that effect going. Kinda reminds me of a Macy's store lol. Very nice though, it will definitely look extremely interesting once all the components are in.

Did you have any issues trying to get good pictures?


----------



## IT Diva

So today was "make the drive cage's cover" day.

The last GPU block and the back plates came in, as well as yet more fittings.

I also picked up a piece of acrylic for the lower rad trim panel since I want the rad to show, while I'll make the PSU cover from mirror to reflect the lower GPU.

Tomorrow will be "make the lower trim bits" day.

Anyway, the drive cage cover came out quite nicely.

I used a scrap bit of plexi to make a partial pattern to do the initial fitting and hole locating, since it's always easier to see where you need to drill a hole when you can see the threads behind the pattern.

Once the front edge fit all the nooks and crannies behind the front chassis panel, with reliefs for the mounting and locating tangs for the front plastic outer panel, I transferred the clear plexi pattern to a piece of mirror acrylic, and dialed in the few details that weren't part of the plexi pattern, since it was a wee bit too small to get every thing, but big enough for the important stuff.

Here's the clear plexi being made into a pattern. You can see how it mounts on threaded spacers, and also holds the front PSU from sliding on its rails. I was able to use existing holes that don't create any problems mounting things in the bays:



and here's a couple of the finished cover:





And moar parts:



The fittings will go towards making the pump/res setups a bit more modular, which will hopefully, add to the futuristic power plant theme.

Kicked into overdrive,

Darlene


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Love it!


----------



## Gereti

I see that, you have made some progress with your build, since my last visit of this page ( i have been watching this building, maby atlesast 6 moths, but haven't said anything







(i think))

you have made good work, and those 290X's, wow


----------



## IT Diva

Thanks for all the kind words and compliments guys.

I worked late last night, but was able to get the 4th GPU block polished and all the back plates installed, so at least that's one more time consuming detail out of the way.

Now I can get back to the lower rad/PSU cover and some tweaks to make the pump /res assemblies more modular.

I also want to test fit the mobo, as I have some doubts about clearance under the top rad, even with the thinner 20mm fans.

I have a plan B however, which is to make an offset mounting plate from 1/8 acrylic and mount 120 fans offset to the outside edge to gain about 20mm of fudge room along the top of the mobo.

Anyway, it's probably best to wait on that aspect until the EK mobo block is installed.

Thanks for the support guys,

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Tweaking on the pump / res modules turned into an all day affair, sheeesh, what a PITA.

To just be able to fit them in between the top and bottom rads, I had to forego using rotaries where I otherwise would have, which makes working on them a super pain, but they work perfectly, and just fit in with a shoehorn.

I added outlet and inlet valves so I can effectively isolate areas of the loops for when I need to do maintenance without having to drain an entire loop. I also set up localized drain valves.

The modularization concept seems to be working out well so far.

Looks like tomorrow will be PSU cover day, lol . . .

Here's a few pics of how it looks with them installed:

Darlene


----------



## Egami

Talk about laboratory feel! Stunning!


----------



## socketus

Put it all on wheels, get a license to sell, and you've got one heckuva beverage cart !

red white n blue. Any significance other than Old Glory ?



*AWESOME !!*


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Put it all on wheels, get a license to sell, and you've got one heckuva beverage cart !
> 
> red white n blue. Any significance other than Old Glory ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *AWESOME !!*


No real significance,

I just like red white and blue themes for race boats and cars, and they all go well with the white case.

The loop color choices were probably the simplest aspect of the build!

Everything else has been one engineering challenge after another.

Darlene

Did you catch the "infinite reflection effect" pics with the side window down a couple pages back?


----------



## mandrix

Looking good Darlene, nice infinity lights show.








If you want some acrylic that is great for edge lighting or for just a light panel, the endlighten panel (now called led panel I think) from acrylite is super.
I used some .315" for my light panel but they have different thicknesses, and they will polish the edges if you want them to (I had them polish mine).
I did not have to do any etching of the panels to diffuse/distribute light from the led's.
http://www.acrylite-shop.com/US/us/light-guiding-edge-lit-ga7iwmq7gnt/acrylite-led-endlighten-colorless-0e012-xl-o5ip7rxuk62~p.html

Looking forward to seeing your gpu's lit up!


----------



## wthenshaw

Those reservoirs look incredible, the lighting from the fans perfectly accents the fluid in my opinion.


----------



## Solonowarion

Incedible job so far.


----------



## PureBlackFire

I'm loving this mod. It's quite a process I imagine, but thanks for sharing. Your creativity and attention to detail are remarkable. I'm looking forward to what you do next after this.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Did you catch the "infinite reflection effect" pics with the side window down a couple pages back?


haven't missed a thang ! still speechless after that infinite reflection set of fotos


----------



## IT Diva

Started working on the plumbing / fittings layout for the mobo, now that good pics of the block show that the ports are in the same place as the RIVE block's.

I also was able to remove the heatpipe from the mosfet block to the big heatsink / IO cover that sets the board uniquely apart, and was a big issue about having to cut the heatpipe to use the mobo block while retaining that big rear heatsink for it's aesthetics.

In keeping with my "futuristic nuclear reactor" look, I wanted to do all the runs so they are either horizontal or vertical, but nothing on an angle. . . . . Just like a piping layout for an industrial plant. . . . everything runs on the X, Y or Z axis.

And I was able to do it . . .

Running the ram blocks in parallel first, with everything else in series afterwards, worked perfectly.

The tube to the rear panel goes to the pass thru to inlet of the rear external rad.

The revolver fitting, (will probably go to a C47 there) connects up the pump outlet.

Now I just have to be patient waiting on the block to dial in the little details.

In keeping with my "futuristic nuclear reactor" look, I wanted to do all the runs so they are either horizontal or vertical, but nothing on an angle. . . . . Just like a piping layout for an industrial plant.















Ran out of the short red extensions to put where the chipset block fittings go, but I'll have some more soon enough . . .

Edit to add:

I changed the crappy pics with orangy colors to better ones.


----------



## socketus

I dont know if its the lighting or the camera, but those fittings, to my eyes, are somewhere between red and orange. What are they and what are they advertised as ?

I was going to say that the color reminded me of these



But when I compared the colors, I realized that the fittings' color is closer to these other kind of peanuts ;-)


----------



## Egami

The red accents really work to make it interesting and highlight the fact that it's a maze rather than a heap of fittings having a rush hour. The revolver fitting does look a bit out of place so will be happy to see a c47 take its place. All in all that's some insane plumbing you have going on there!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> I dont know if its the lighting or the camera, but those fittings, to my eyes, are somewhere between red and orange. What are they and what are they advertised as ?
> 
> I was going to say that the color reminded me of these
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But when I compared the colors, I realized that the fittings' color is closer to these other kind of peanuts ;-)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> The red accents really work to make it interesting and highlight the fact that it's a maze rather than a heap of fittings having a rush hour. The revolver fitting does look a bit out of place so will be happy to see a c47 take its place. All in all that's some insane plumbing you have going on there!


The color came out wayyyyyyyy off to the orange variant.

They are really a nice deep red color.

It looks a lot better irl, than in the pics for sure.

It had to be the crap room lighting at 2AM and I was too tired to think better of posting it....

I'm going to redo the single C47 fitting coming out of the CPU block to something that matches the overall look better, and the tubing run for the red mobo loop to the red loop's res / pump module is short enough to do in a length of E22, (12mm) tubing.

I like the red C47's where the fitting and tube connect, makes a nice accent . . . . . but . .

I'm still a bit on the fence about the short red extensions at the bottom of each fitting where they screw into the blocks.

I have enough clearance to just eliminate them.

It might give a better "overall flow" to the look . . .

Will have to try it both ways, once the block is here.

Edit to add:

I replaced the pics in the earlier post with better ones that are not so orange looking.

Darlene


----------



## 0201mitzen

This is amazing!







i have never seen anything like it. Definitely subbed!


----------



## IT Diva

With all this attention to the mobo plumbing, it also occurred to me that changing the triple rotary 90's at the top of the ram blocks to regular rotary 90's like at the bottom of the ram blocks would make it look more consistent . . . . .

I did . . . . and it definitely does . . . . .

















OK,

It's time to work on the lower rad / PSU cover now, the OCD on the mobo is finally in check . .

Darlene


----------



## Egami

The new looks is def more going-to-places -type orderly.

I initially thought of saying "keep the bottom red extensions" but especially with the new routing would love to see both options.


----------



## barracks510

The way you manage your fittings is like magic. I could never come up with such an awesome layout like that.


----------



## IT Diva

So today was PSU cover day . . . . .

The challenge for this build was to make a lower dress up PSU / rad cover that leaves the focal points easily in view, but hides the PSU cables and drain setup.

It also has to be able to be removed to get to the modular PSU cables and to be able to drain if need be. . . . . All while negotiating the plumbing for that rad and the lower two GPU's.

I settled on a design that uses 2 main sections, a small third, keystone, section to join them, and a 4th section made from 1/8" mirror acrylic that sits under the PSU end of the rear clear section to hide the cables and drain setup.

The 3 section parts are made from 1/8" clear acrylic so all the lighting and stainless steel rads are in easy view.

Here's some pics, more with regular sunlight tomorrow:

Darlene


----------



## sinnedone

Getting rather excited with all these pics. lol That's going to look awesome reflected over and over.


----------



## Difozenn




----------



## wthenshaw

Glad this build is moving quicker now. Looking awesome!


----------



## Zooty Cat

Great work and attention to detail. The only thing....I hope you don't have to move this rig around a lot.


----------



## XorioZ

****...
This makes my conversion mod look like a kindergarten project








Nice mirror effect, really add's a lot of depth to the lighting.

*subbed*


----------



## IT Diva

Looks like the US retailers will have the mobo block around the first part of January . . . . .

So until then, I can't actual finish the mobo plumbing, but I did mount it in place so I could start on the other tubing runs and be sure I had access holes for all the cabling.

The top rad is just too big to fit even the 20mm thick fans above the mobo, but I did some mods to one of them, and when the mobo comes back out, if I trim the ears off the top right row of ram latches, at least one will fit.

Their lighting effect is pretty important.

I'll see how much the loss of 1 fan is made up for by a light panel on the top GPU's backplate.

I had to make a little mod to the bridge I made for the lower 2 GPU's, but I can take the PSU cover out and back in now with all the plumbing in place.

You can see that each area is pretty modular, the upper 2 GPU's and the top rad with an "in" and "out" white revolver fitting to matchup to the in and out white revolver fittings on the white pump/res module.

The same for the lower GPU's and lower rad, with in and out blue revolver fittings to match up to the blue pump/res module.

The mobo is the red loop, and matches to the red pump/res module, . . . you can see how the mobo routes to the rear panel with the QD's for the external rad on the back side and red revolver fittings for the hookup to the red pump/res module.

Hopefully, I've maintained pretty good consistency as I've plumbed the different areas.

I'll be looking to make little tweaks while I wait on the mobo block from EK.

. . . . . . . . And then there's allllllll the cabling this monster has to put in . . .

Hope you like the progress so far.

Darlene


----------



## sinnedone

This just keeps getting better and better... NICE!


----------



## Egami

I'm actually having to use fingers to keep up with all the plumbing! Will be interesting to see how the white and blue are made to match the distance between pump and mobo / gpu end.


----------



## socketus

*sensory overload ! sensory overload !*


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Stupidly amazing.


----------



## wermad




----------



## kingchris

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


lol EXACTLY


----------



## IT Diva

I like to think that I've pushed the envelope a bit with this build . . .









Darlene


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I like to think that I've pushed the envelope a bit with this build . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


just a bit huh?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I like to think that I've pushed the envelope a bit with this build . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


I think you stuck a grenade in the envelope


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I like to think that I've pushed the envelope a bit with this build . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Yeah you know... just a little bit!


----------



## CroakV

Wow, you sure enough done did put the "loco" in your locomotive theme there.

Amazing.


----------



## DeanW75234

Darlene,

I finally got back into your blog on the 820 Stretch and all I can say is "Totally Beyond Belief". Lady, you have done a beautiful job with it, and the "endless mirror effect" is astonishing. I'll keep up with this blog from here on out, because you have some excellent techniques and everytime I seen something new, it makes me think about ways to make my next build even better.


----------



## IT Diva

Little weekend update:

Finally got the chance to try out my new Monsoon hardline tubing bending kit . . . .
















The kit is awesome, a little practice and getting familiar with the way your tubing responds to heat, and it's off to bending heaven you go.

I connected up the res/pump modules with the mobo and GPU modules . . . . .

Got to make a few scraps, but mostly keepers after I realized that McMaster Carr tubing is extruded and is more temp sensitive than cast, so I adjusted the amount of heat and went to the mandrels as soon as it felt noodley, not a little after like they show in the video.

That was the key, . . no more thumb prints and dimples from pushing it against the mandrel.

That tubing gets really really soft if you give it just a little too much heat.

Anyway, I'm pretty OK with the results, but maybe in a few days, I'll feel like having another think on if there's any better routing options.

One of the things that makes it a bit more challenging, is that each half of each loop can be drained/filled independently, so there's extra valves at low points, and air bleed ports at high points to account for.

Darlene







Now as soon as the mobo block comes, I can rip it all apart to install the block . . . .








The fun just never ends . . . .


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Little weekend update:
> 
> Finally got the chance to try out my new Monsoon hardline tubing bending kit . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kit is awesome, a little practice and getting familiar with the way your tubing responds to heat, and it's off to bending heaven you go.
> 
> I connected up the res/pump modules with the mobo and GPU modules . . . . .
> 
> Got to make a few scraps, but mostly keepers after I realized that McMaster Carr tubing is extruded and is more temp sensitive than cast, so I adjusted the amount of heat and went to the mandrels as soon as it felt noodley, not a little after like they show in the video.
> 
> That was the key, . . no more thumb prints and dimples from pushing it against the mandrel.
> 
> That tubing gets really really soft if you give it just a little too much heat.
> 
> Anyway, I'm pretty OK with the results, but maybe in a few days, I'll feel like having another think on if there's any better routing options.
> 
> One of the things that makes it a bit more challenging, is that each half of each loop can be drained/filled independently, so there's extra valves at low points, and air bleed ports at high points to account for.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


holy crap....







The shear size of this thing cannot be comprehended in pictures







Looking fantastic Diva!


----------



## wthenshaw

Holy *****! Looks awesome.


----------



## IT Diva

Couple more pics with the side window panel up and down and the small light panel on the top GPU backplate to accent the mobo

Hope you guys like the way this is shaping up:

Darlene


----------



## Roaches

My god, all those reservoirs and straight tubing!..Its a pipe dream come true!


----------



## Buehlar

I'm still awaiting for that perfect camera angle that really shows all the reservoirs in infinity. I bet it's outta this world IRL.
A short vid clip may capture the moment perhaps?







love the pR0n nonetheless!
Can't wait for more!


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Couple more pics with the side window panel up and down and the small light panel on the top GPU backplate to accent the mobo
> 
> Hope you guys like the way this is shaping up:
> 
> Darlene


what the hell....


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Couple more pics with the side window panel up and down and the small light panel on the top GPU backplate to accent the mobo
> 
> Hope you guys like the way this is shaping up:
> 
> Darlene


Hmm.

Perhaps a bit


----------



## Buehlar

Yep...TBO it's all just a HUGE waste of money
but it sure does look AWESOME


----------



## kingchris

just keeps getting better and better!


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Yep...TBO it's all just a HUGE waste of money
> but it sure does look AWESOME


How exactly is it a waste of money?


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> How exactly is it a waste of money?


After I posted that I knew someone was going to bite LOL so congrats on being that guy









It was a comment to the overkill reply someone posted above.

Can you not smell irony? Just look at that thing...I hate Darline! (because I'm jealous)








I know what this stuff costs and I myself have spent my own $ on my addiction.

It's just the facts guys, admit it, we're all sick, we're obsessed with our hobbie and we waste our money everyday to fulfill these unnecessary needs because it makes us feel better. Bunch of junkies. We really need theropy in a bad way.









Maybe somebody needs to shut us all down, take our money and feed those hungry children already...for God's sake!

***DISCLAIMER***
The above comments are of my own opinion and should not be taken prior to consultation of your own.









All in good fun









Build on guys!


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> After I posted that I knew someone was going to bite LOL so congrats on being that guy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a comment to the overkill reply someone posted above.
> 
> Can you not smell irony? Just look at that thing...I hate Darline! (because I'm jealous)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know what this stuff costs and I myself have spent my own $ on my addiction.
> 
> It's just the facts guys, admit it, we're all sick, we're obsessed with our hobbie and we waste our money everyday to fulfill these unnecessary needs because it makes us feel better. Bunch of junkies. We really need theropy in a bad way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe somebody needs to shut us all down, take our money and feed those hungry children already...for God's sake!
> 
> ***DISCLAIMER***
> The above comments are of my own opinion and should not be taken prior to consultation of your own.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All in good fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build on guys!


I keep the addiction at bay by following and advising others on their builds.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> I keep the addiction at bay by following and advising others on their builds.


Until you see a great deal and relapse! muahahaha


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Until you see a great deal and relapse! muahahaha


No chance of that, I'm a broke college student.

Last mod/build log I did was super low budget!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> I keep the addiction at bay by following and advising others on their builds.
> 
> 
> 
> Until you see a great deal and relapse! muahahaha
Click to expand...



That's not the best pic of me. I took it last time Darlene updated her log.


----------



## Buehlar

Gotta love Dave^^^ LOL


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Can you not smell irony? Just look at that thing...I hate Darline! (because I'm jealous)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know what this stuff costs and I myself have spent my own $ on my addiction.
> 
> It's just the facts guys, admit it, we're all sick, we're obsessed with our hobbie and we waste our money everyday to fulfill these unnecessary needs because it makes us feel better. Bunch of junkies. We really need theropy in a bad way.


And this is different from say sitting outside in freezing weather, painted in ya team colors with a hunk of foam cheese on ya head, bare chested in sub zero temps after paying $800 for the privelidge every Sunday during football season







?

Or building RC Airplanes ?

Or climbing Everest ?

Of restoring a 69 Camaro ?

I do it cause it gives me endless hours of enjoyment ..... saves me thousands of dollars in cable TV subscriptions, nights out at the bar, travel to exotic locations

I do it because I love to present myself with challenges and overcome major difference is ..........and I get to use and stare at the results of my hobby every day .... not just a few hours or days outta the year.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> And this is different from say sitting outside in freezing weather, painted in ya team colors with a hunk of foam cheese on ya head, bare chested in sub zero temps after paying $800 for the privelidge every Sunday during football season
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> Or building RC Airplanes ?
> 
> Or climbing Everest ?
> 
> Of restoring a 69 Camaro ?
> 
> I do it cause it gives me endless hours of enjoyment ..... saves me thousands of dollars in cable TV subscriptions, nights out at the bar, travel to exotic locations
> 
> I do it because I love to present myself with challenges and overcome major difference is ..........and I get to use and stare at the results of my hobby every day .... not just a few hours or days outta the year.


Couldn't agree more. That's exactly what I try to explain to my friends and family.
My brother-n-law sarcastically asked me "Why do you need 3 monitors for a computer?" I asked him "Why do you need 3 cases of beer ever weekend to play fantasy football?"
We all waste money in our own way but Darlene really makes it look extremely AWESOME.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

This thing is so incredible. I am so happy to see it finally nearing completion. This is a work of art. It shouldn't be in a computer room, it should be in an art gallery!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Couldn't agree more. That's exactly what I try to explain to my friends and family.
> My brother-n-law sarcastically asked me "Why do you need 3 monitors for a computer?" I asked him "Why do you need 3 cases of beer ever weekend to play fantasy football?"
> We all waste money in our own way but Darlene really makes it look extremely AWESOME.


I think we can attract his attention .... maybe we can get Darlene to change the coolant color and slap some Corona decals on those reservoirs ! Now there's a sponsor that cud support my PC habit.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Couldn't agree more. That's exactly what I try to explain to my friends and family.
> My brother-n-law sarcastically asked me "Why do you need 3 monitors for a computer?" I asked him "Why do you need 3 cases of beer ever weekend to play fantasy football?"
> We all waste money in our own way but Darlene really makes it look extremely AWESOME.


The best retort would be " Why do you need to spend 3000$ for some exotic place for a few days? "


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> The best retort would be " Why do you need to spend 3000$ for some exotic place for a few days? "


But Darlene already lives in one ....so he'd have a decent counter


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I think we can attract his attention .... maybe we can get Darlene to change the coolant color and slap some Corona decals on those reservoirs ! Now there's a sponsor that cud support my PC habit.


LOL
Well, maybe if she could make it actually brew some beer then I'm sure he'd fall in love. An infinate array of golden sud filled resivors on tap!


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> But Darlene already lives in one ....so he'd have a decent counter


----------



## Solonowarion

Cant wait to see this thing start flowing


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Cant wait to see this thing start flowing


Yeah a Video of the initial fill would be cool


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> The best retort would be " Why do you need to spend 3000$ for some exotic place for a few days? "
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But Darlene already lives in one ....so he'd have a decent counter
Click to expand...

But since I actually get paid to be here, it wouldn't be much of a counter.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Cant wait to see this thing start flowing


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Cant wait to see this thing start flowing
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah a Video of the initial fill would be cool
Click to expand...

That's not such a bad idea if I can get someone to help me do it.

It probably won't be as exciting as you may think though, . . .

I fill from the drain ports up, so it displaces air out the vent ports as it fills.

The reservoirs are already filled, so it's the other portions that will need to be filled, and I have drain valves and fittings at the low points, as well as vent ports at the high points, already installed.

Because of the size, weight, and overall awkwardness, tilting, shaking, and tipping, to help bleed the systems is best designed around and minimized.

Darlene

Here's what I use to fill thru the drains:

Same low pressure reg I use for air leak testing, with a modified water filter housing to put air over the coolant to force it up thru the system.

Valves on the "air in", and "coolant out" lines let me have complete control of the fill process.

The Schrader valve is to vent the fill apparatus coolant container, with a G1/4 fitting on the other side to refill the coolant.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> But since I actually get paid to be here, it wouldn't be much of a counter.


Thatz what makes it more painful .... the BIL who has to pay big bucks to go to the islands versus you who getz paid to be there


----------



## feznz

That is a rather interesting way of filling there and the modification of a water filter there.
I am only too happy to help you fill the limo with juice in return you only have to pay return airfares to Ne Zealand


----------



## chase11

Really late to the party, but definitely subbed!


----------



## wheresstimpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> And this is different from say sitting outside in freezing weather, painted in ya team colors with a hunk of foam cheese on ya head, bare chested in sub zero temps after paying $800 for the privelidge every Sunday during football season
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> Or building RC Airplanes ?
> 
> Or climbing Everest ?
> 
> Of restoring a 69 Camaro ?
> 
> I do it cause it gives me endless hours of enjoyment ..... saves me thousands of dollars in cable TV subscriptions, nights out at the bar, travel to exotic locations
> 
> I do it because I love to present myself with challenges and overcome major difference is ..........and I get to use and stare at the results of my hobby every day .... not just a few hours or days outta the year.


This post is a perfect representation of my feelings on it. I work on my rig (gonna be epic) when i get frustrated at the amount of money i have spent on my 62 Nova drag car/ street machine and its still not finished, lol. I know that doesnt make sense, but i needed something to be "completed" and a new computer was going to happen way sooner than the car.









Its amazing how much money i saved when i stopped going out and drinking a couple times a week. Then even more when i stopped going out to lunch and dinner all the time(only once a week now for "date night"). I can bank role all kinds of fun ****, and im young, dumb and dont even make that much money.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Darlene ....

Saw one of these in a lobby yesterday .... and 1st thing I thought was how it would look on the back wall of ya case


----------



## seross69

Darlene you run into problems out of parts or what have not seen anything posted by you for a while???


----------



## Bluelionpiper

As a fellow 820 user (and SCUBA diver) I must say..... daaaaaaaaaaamn girl! I am very excited to see how this continues to grow. totally subbed!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Darlene you run into problems out of parts or what have not seen anything posted by you for a while???


I got a little side tracked again, lol . . . .

I just had to go back a few pages to see where I'd left off with the updates.

There's actually been a few more recent update pics in the WC thread since the mobo blocks came in and have been installed and leak tested with my handy dandy Diva Deluxe air leakdown tester.

I've also been working at tidying up the electricals on the back side and wiring the auxiliary PSU's and DC-DC converters that power the fans and pumps and their associated controllers.

My MODDIY order came in to make up custom cables for the GPU's that run off the secondary 1000W PSU at the front .

One of the things that side tracked me was hearing so much about guys having issues with running the PWM D5 pumps from the A6, especially since I have 6 of them, (3 pairs) . . . . and while they normally will run from the custom controller I made for them, one of the features of that controller is that it is selectable between onboard generated PWM and off board supplied PWM, like from a CPU fan header, or an A6.

To be sure I didn't have any issues, (and to find solutions if I did) . . . . I ordered a Dimestech EasyXL tech bench, full WC gear, and all the imaginable Diva frills, so that I can set up the mobo and all the hardware I'll be using, set up the RAID, install the OS, Aquasuite, and GPUs and drivers to be sure there's not going to be any surprises.

It'll be wayyyy easier to work on things out in the open with soft tubing, than in a big heavy case where everything is plumbed in with hard acrylic tube.

That way, I can put the scope on the PWM signals and verify that everything is correct and find ways to fix it if it's not, before It becomes impossible to work on in the case.

It took a while on the tech bench, backordered/made to order, so that was a delay, but I just got my "Marina K", "package shipped to you" email the other day that it shipped, hoping it gets here for the weekend.

I'll do a mini build log here for the tech bench when it gets here.

If it's not here for the weekend, I'll post some pics of what I've been working on the last few weeks, and the WC parts just waiting for the tech bench to come.

I'll be using my XSPC triple DDC top with 3 X 35X pumps with the new EK metal heatsink housings added for the 2 X 420 SR-1 rads on the bench, controlled by one of my custom lab class PWM controllers.

I also setup a BP dual D5 top with 2 PWM D5's, just like the ones in the build, to be the controlled pumps for the A6 PWM testing, so the managing of the tech bench loop stays independent of the way the A6 PWM works

Sorry if it's been a boring wall of text, but a build like this to be a success, requires a lot of planning and organized incremental testing and verification, and that's part of the log too.

Pics to come soon
















Darlene


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I got a little side tracked again, lol . . . .
> 
> I just had to go back a few pages to see where I'd left off with the updates.
> 
> There's actually been a few more recent update pics in the WC thread since the mobo blocks came in and have been installed and leak tested with my handy dandy Diva Deluxe air leakdown tester.
> 
> I've also been working at tidying up the electricals on the back side and wiring the auxiliary PSU's and DC-DC converters that power the fans and pumps and their associated controllers.
> 
> My MODDIY order came in to make up custom cables for the GPU's that run off the secondary 1000W PSU at the front .
> 
> One of the things that side tracked me was hearing so much about guys having issues with running the PWM D5 pumps from the A6, especially since I have 6 of them, (3 pairs) . . . . and while they normally will run from the custom controller I made for them, one of the features of that controller is that it is selectable between onboard generated PWM and off board supplied PWM, like from a CPU fan header, or an A6.
> 
> To be sure I didn't have any issues, (and to find solutions if I did) . . . . I ordered a Dimestech EasyXL tech bench, full WC gear, and all the imaginable Diva frills, so that I can set up the mobo and all the hardware I'll be using, set up the RAID, install the OS, Aquasuite, and GPUs and drivers to be sure there's not going to be any surprises.
> 
> It'll be wayyyy easier to work on things out in the open with soft tubing, than in a big heavy case where everything is plumbed in with hard acrylic tube.
> 
> That way, I can put the scope on the PWM signals and verify that everything is correct and find ways to fix it if it's not, before It becomes impossible to work on in the case.
> 
> It took a while on the tech bench, backordered/made to order, so that was a delay, but I just got my "Marina K", "package shipped to you" email the other day that it shipped, hoping it gets here for the weekend.
> 
> I'll do a mini build log here for the tech bench when it gets here.
> 
> If it's not here for the weekend, I'll post some pics of what I've been working on the last few weeks, and the WC parts just waiting for the tech bench to come.
> 
> I'll be using my XSPC triple DDC top with 3 X 35X pumps with the new EK metal heatsink housings added for the 2 X 420 SR-1 rads on the bench, controlled by one of my custom lab class PWM controllers.
> 
> I also setup a BP dual D5 top with 2 PWM D5's, just like the ones in the build, to be the controlled pumps for the A6 PWM testing, so the managing of the tech bench loop stays independent of the way the A6 PWM works
> 
> Sorry if it's been a boring wall of text, but a build like this to be a success, requires a lot of planning and organized incremental testing and verification, and that's part of the log too.
> 
> Pics to come soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Just glad to see your ok and everything is still going good for you. Been a lot more problems the past few days with the Aqua Suite than just the PMW problems. I can not wait until you do your testing I am going to wait for your results to see if I change all my pumps to this. would like to be able to run them all from one header. I am wondering if the PMW is strong enough from the AQ6 to do this.. I am wondering if I am going to be able to run my 18 noise blockers off of one PMW signal from the AQ6 since you can not control but 6 of the corsair PMW fans from it. well good luck with all your testing and I enjoy good text as much as pictures learn more from text!!!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I got a little side tracked again, lol . . . .
> 
> I just had to go back a few pages to see where I'd left off with the updates.
> 
> There's actually been a few more recent update pics in the WC thread since the mobo blocks came in and have been installed and leak tested with my handy dandy Diva Deluxe air leakdown tester.
> 
> I've also been working at tidying up the electricals on the back side and wiring the auxiliary PSU's and DC-DC converters that power the fans and pumps and their associated controllers.
> 
> My MODDIY order came in to make up custom cables for the GPU's that run off the secondary 1000W PSU at the front .
> 
> One of the things that side tracked me was hearing so much about guys having issues with running the PWM D5 pumps from the A6, especially since I have 6 of them, (3 pairs) . . . . and while they normally will run from the custom controller I made for them, one of the features of that controller is that it is selectable between onboard generated PWM and off board supplied PWM, like from a CPU fan header, or an A6.
> 
> To be sure I didn't have any issues, (and to find solutions if I did) . . . . I ordered a Dimestech EasyXL tech bench, full WC gear, and all the imaginable Diva frills, so that I can set up the mobo and all the hardware I'll be using, set up the RAID, install the OS, Aquasuite, and GPUs and drivers to be sure there's not going to be any surprises.
> 
> It'll be wayyyy easier to work on things out in the open with soft tubing, than in a big heavy case where everything is plumbed in with hard acrylic tube.
> 
> That way, I can put the scope on the PWM signals and verify that everything is correct and find ways to fix it if it's not, before It becomes impossible to work on in the case.
> 
> It took a while on the tech bench, backordered/made to order, so that was a delay, but I just got my "Marina K", "package shipped to you" email the other day that it shipped, hoping it gets here for the weekend.
> 
> I'll do a mini build log here for the tech bench when it gets here.
> 
> If it's not here for the weekend, I'll post some pics of what I've been working on the last few weeks, and the WC parts just waiting for the tech bench to come.
> 
> I'll be using my XSPC triple DDC top with 3 X 35X pumps with the new EK metal heatsink housings added for the 2 X 420 SR-1 rads on the bench, controlled by one of my custom lab class PWM controllers.
> 
> I also setup a BP dual D5 top with 2 PWM D5's, just like the ones in the build, to be the controlled pumps for the A6 PWM testing, so the managing of the tech bench loop stays independent of the way the A6 PWM works
> 
> Sorry if it's been a boring wall of text, but a build like this to be a success, requires a lot of planning and organized incremental testing and verification, and that's part of the log too.
> 
> Pics to come soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Just glad to see your ok and everything is still going good for you. Been a lot more problems the past few days with the Aqua Suite than just the PMW problems. I can not wait until you do your testing I am going to wait for your results to see if I change all my pumps to this. would like to be able to run them all from one header. I am wondering if the PMW is strong enough from the AQ6 to do this.. I am wondering if I am going to be able to run my 18 noise blockers off of one PMW signal from the AQ6 since you can not control but 6 of the corsair PMW fans from it. well good luck with all your testing and I enjoy good text as much as pictures learn more from text!!!
Click to expand...

One of the things I will probably take a look at is making a fan-out booster circuit, so that a single PWM source can be able to drive many additional loads it couldn't otherwise drive.

There's a couple ways to go about it, but once the test bench is set up, I'll be able to load the A6 while I watch the pulse shape on the scope, and see what I have to work with.

I'll attempt to make it something that's DIY for reasonably skilled modders.

I'll try to make it work with Corsair fans as well, . . . . . though having to buy a bunch of fans I really have no use for is likely to slow that aspect, or I'll send one to someone with them for trials.

Darlene

Keep me posted on the Aquasuite issues, please.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> One of the things I will probably take a look at is making a fan-out booster circuit, so that a single PWM source can be able to drive many additional loads it couldn't otherwise drive.
> 
> There's a couple ways to go about it, but once the test bench is set up, I'll be able to load the A6 while I watch the pulse shape on the scope, and see what I have to work with.
> 
> I'll attempt to make it something that's DIY for reasonably skilled modders.
> 
> I'll try to make it work with Corsair fans as well, . . . . . though having to buy a bunch of fans I really have no use for is likely to slow that aspect, or I'll send one to someone with them for trials.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Keep me posted on the Aquasuite issues, please.


thank for this help with PMW and the AQ6... I dont have corsair fans but I am willing to test anything you want me to.







only thing is I dont have a scope at home. I have looked at buying one and may later but right now cant justify the purchase even if I want one!!









the only thing with the Aquasuite is it keep loseing the software sensors. i need to read somemore but think this has been corrected with 2014-1.3 and making sure you have the latest reporting software..

these
Open Hardware Monitor: Version 0.6.0
HWiNFO : from version 0.6.0 , from version 4.30
Aida 64 ( with active WMI export)


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm pretty sure Corsair uses a much lower frequency for all their PWM, making it sorta proprietary. I learned that when i was reading about Corsair Link months ago before the AQ6 was announced

I read it on their forums posted by a faculty member. I was a WHILE ago when i read it, but i think it's closer to 15 or 16kHz

Edit: Wow, i found this link quicker than i though. Don't think they specified the frequency, but they definitely say that Corsair Link should only be used with Corsair PWM fans because they use different PWM timings

Quote:

3. Will the Link allow for a PWM water pump to be managed from the fan controller link? Either a DDC or other pumps?

*A: I am sorry but I don't think it will work as we use a custome TAC/ PWM control that many third party fans wont work with let alone a Pump.*

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=109970

So if Corsair Link is only meant to work with Corsair fans and pumps, then i imagine the compatibility issue's work both ways for the same reason. They use a different frequency

"We use a custom method to control fan speed by pulsing the Voltage at different frequency's to get the desired fan speed. This type of Hybrid TAC/PWM or PDM/PWM control may not work with most PWM Fans but will work with most TAC Fans. I would suggest you consider our fans if you want to use our Corsair Link and extra Cooling Nodes."


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm pretty sure Corsair uses a much lower frequency for all their PWM, making it sorta proprietary. I learned that when i was reading about Corsair Link months ago before the AQ6 was announced
> 
> I read it on their forums posted by a faculty member. I was a WHILE ago when i read it, but i think it's closer to 15 or 16kHz
> 
> Edit: Wow, i found this link quicker than i though. Don't think they specified the frequency, but they definitely say that Corsair Link should only be used with Corsair PWM fans because they use different PWM timings
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 3. Will the Link allow for a PWM water pump to be managed from the fan controller link? Either a DDC or other pumps?
> 
> *A: I am sorry but I don't think it will work as we use a custome TAC/ PWM control that many third party fans wont work with let alone a Pump.*
> 
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=109970
> 
> So if Corsair Link is only meant to work with Corsair fans and pumps, then i imagine the compatibility issue's work both ways for the same reason. They use a different frequency
> 
> "We use a custom method to control fan speed by pulsing the Voltage at different frequency's to get the desired fan speed. This type of Hybrid TAC/PWM or PDM/PWM control may not work with most PWM Fans but will work with most TAC Fans. I would suggest you consider our fans if you want to use our Corsair Link and extra Cooling Nodes."


All we need is a nerd with a scope who uses Corsair Link . . . .

Though that may prove hard to find, as most guys nerdy enough to have a scope, probably avoided CL.

While you'd need a scope to look at the range of pulse width used by the controller, you could measure the frequency with a decent multimeter with a Hz scale.

Still, since at least several Corsair fans at a time work OK from an A6, it would seem to be more a matter of loading the A6's PWM output to a point where the pulse shape or voltage level degrades past the point of useful interpretation, more than being an optimized frequency mismatch.

Soooo much to figure out, sooooo little time to do it in . .

Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

The fans couldn't be tested with an oscilloscope instead?

Probly 90% of what i know about PWM is from your threads and posts so i definitely trust your judgement.

I've never seen them mention that about the fans, but it just seems too much coincidence. Corsair Link has full PWM Control. But it only works with Corsair's PWM. Then the SP120 PWM's have more probems than any other fan on the A6.

It just seems like a proprietary marketing tactic


----------



## DaveLT

Fans can then be tested with a signal generator. I have a signal gen but I don't have a corsair fan. If you're willing to send me one I'm all open


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The fans couldn't be tested with an oscilloscope instead?
> Probly 90% of what i know about PWM is from your threads and posts so i definitely trust your judgement.
> 
> I've never seen them mention that about the fans, but it just seems too much coincidence. Corsair Link has full PWM Control. But it only works with Corsair's PWM. Then the SP120 PWM's have more probems than any other fan on the A6.
> 
> It just seems like a proprietary marketing tactic


Hard to say if it's intended as a proprietary marketing scheme, or just that since they designed their own integrated system, it worked better at something other than 25KHz.

It could also be that the frequency part isn't really the problem at all, it could be a matter of how much load each corsair fan loads the controller, and how much current the controller is able so source.

If you were to try running a 12V car brake light bulb from a small 12V camera flash battery, it wouldn't work properly. The small battery, while the right voltage, couldn't deliver enough current at that voltage to get 12V at the bulb, so it would be very dim, if it came on at all.

For a PWM control signal, if it's similarly loaded down to where it's no longer at 5V, or close to it, the fans won't be controlled.

Darlene


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hard to say if it's intended as a proprietary marketing scheme, or just that since they designed their own integrated system, it worked better at something other than 25KHz.


Seems odd that they would intentionally stop their fans working with other hardware, since (I would imagine) consumers are more likely to change fans, than change their fan controller.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Seems odd that they would intentionally stop their fans working with other hardware, since (I would imagine) consumers are more likely to change fans, than change their fan controller.


I heard that many fans won't work on Corsair AIOs one of are CM Jetflo 120s which work nicely on every other motherboard/device


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Seems odd that they would intentionally stop their fans working with other hardware, since (I would imagine) consumers are more likely to change fans, than change their fan controller.


Yeah, and Corsair would want that fan controller to be Corsair Link. Darlene could definitely be right about it not being strategic. But considering they developed Corsair Link with it's own PWM that doesn't conform to the industry standard. It just makes sense that their fans, which are the only PWM fans that are recommended for the PWM on Corsair Link, conform to Corsair's standard instead of the norm


----------



## mandrix

Darlene, Aquasuite 2014-1.3 seems to be working....at least it fixed the software sensor problems with AIDA. Haven't seen anything lately about pwm problems so not sure where that's at.

I lost pwm to both sets of pumps today, and each set is run from a different Aquaero....turned off power, unplugged/replugged the control leads and everything functioning again. Only thing I can figure is the room was super cold early this morning. lol. Never lost pwm from both sets at once before.


----------



## seross69

Dalene,

AQ6 Also has a problem with the D5 PMW pumps from swiftech, see below quote from AQ forums.
Quote:


> RE: PMW Pump
> No, it don't work. Both aquacomputer and swiftech support said to me that they are aware of the problem. Aquacomputer is actually trying to fix it, but it could take some time.
> 
> So for the moment I just basically forgot about controlling the pump via PWM as I don't hear it at all when run at full power.


Just a quick update thought it might help you.


----------



## IT Diva

Thanks everyone for keeping me posted on the developments and disappointments.

Looks like my tech bench won't make it here for this weekend, still just shows "electronic shipping info received" since the 22nd.

At least by the time it arrives, I'll have everything pretty much ready to install.

I'm really quite looking forward to finding out why this stuff doesn't play nicely together

I also ordered a USB connected scope to use with my laptop to make it easier to get everything in one place at the same time.

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/TENMA-DSO2250-/72-10165

Should be a lot easier than trying to move the bench scope around. . . . .

Unfortunately, it's taking its sweet time just to get shipped!

Ordered a week ago today . .

Checked Tuesday . . shows "processing"

Checked Wednesday, shows processing, called CS, was told "credit" has it on hold

Talked to "credit" . . . had to give them the phone# on the back of the card so they can verify billing & shipping addy's match

Credit releases the hold Wednesday

Called CS yesterday (Thursday), since still shows "processing"

Was told it would ship out that day

Check this morning and it still shows "processing"

Now keep in mind that they have both my home and work emails and a phone # to contact me, . . . but never did, even once . .

Sometimes living in paradise really sucks









Hopefully, everything gets here this coming week, which gives me the next week to get any little odds and ends ordered, so that I can spend my B'day week, Valentine's day week, of vacation time, making it all happen.

Darlene


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone for keeping me posted on the developments and disappointments.
> 
> Looks like my tech bench won't make it here for this weekend, still just shows "electronic shipping info received" since the 22nd.
> 
> At least by the time it arrives, I'll have everything pretty much ready to install.
> 
> I'm really quite looking forward to finding out why this stuff doesn't play nicely together
> 
> I also ordered a USB connected scope to use with my laptop to make it easier to get everything in one place at the same time.
> 
> http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/TENMA-DSO2250-/72-10165
> 
> Should be a lot easier than trying to move the bench scope around. . . . .
> 
> Unfortunately, it's taking its sweet time just to get shipped!
> 
> Ordered a week ago today . .
> 
> Checked Tuesday . . shows "processing"
> 
> Checked Wednesday, shows processing, called CS, was told "credit" has it on hold
> 
> Talked to "credit" . . . had to give them the phone# on the back of the card so they can verify billing & shipping addy's match
> 
> Credit releases the hold Wednesday
> 
> Called CS yesterday (Thursday), since still shows "processing"
> 
> Was told it would ship out that day
> 
> Check this morning and it still shows "processing"
> 
> Now keep in mind that they have both my home and work emails and a phone # to contact me, . . . but never did, even once . .
> 
> Sometimes living in paradise really sucks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully, everything gets here this coming week, which gives me the next week to get any little odds and ends ordered, so that I can spend my B'day week, Valentine's day week, of vacation time, making it all happen
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Darlene


Yeah I hate when I order something and they have problem with card or need more info that it just sits there and they don't try and contact me, this is the reason I have got where I usually pay more for things so I can get them from a major retailer that does this. my temp logger sat at processing for over a week before I finally was able to call them from work and they just wanted me to verify some information since my ip address I ordered from was in Indonesia!!!!! Paypal use to be the worst but I finally got them to agree to not freeze my account when I ordered something and was not in the USA....


----------



## mandrix

Oh wow. That's a neat little 'scope. Didn't know they made anything like that.....


----------



## seross69

Darlene would this work to watch the PMW signals. it is on 40Mhz instead of the 100 you have linked but it is chaeper and I would like to beable to watch the signals... and dont want to spend more than needed.. LOL on this right now!!







but I like meters and toys like this!!!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Darlene would this work to watch the PMW signals. it is on 40Mhz instead of the 100 you have linked but it is chaeper and I would like to beable to watch the signals... and dont want to spend more than needed.. LOL on this right now!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but I like meters and toys like this!!!


Is there supposed to be a link here somewhere, or am I somehow missing it?

This one maybe?

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/TENMA-DSO2090-/72-10155

D.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Is there supposed to be a link here somewhere, or am I somehow missing it?
> 
> This one maybe?
> 
> http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/TENMA-DSO2090-/72-10155
> 
> D.


yes there was suppose to be a link and I forgot to post it.









yes that is the one!!!

I really just need to borrow the real nice fluke scope we have at work that we use to look at our SCR drives... it would be so nice at home







it is a fluke 190-204 with all the bells and whistles.

that is what they let us by to look at the saw tooth output on the SCR system.. crazy... i like to use it to check my heart rate!!!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Is there supposed to be a link here somewhere, or am I somehow missing it?
> 
> This one maybe?
> 
> http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/TENMA-DSO2090-/72-10155
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> yes there was suppose to be a link and I forgot to post it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yes that is the one!!!
> 
> I really just need to borrow the real nice fluke scope we have at work that we use to look at our SCR drives... it would be so nice at home
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it is a fluke 190-204 with all the bells and whistles.
> 
> that is what they let us by to look at the saw tooth output on the SCR system.. crazy... i like to use it to check my heart rate!!!
Click to expand...

That one I linked above would work just fine for many needs.

You could do equally well with even less costly ebay options if you wanted.

25KHz square wave is not much of a challenge for even entry level scopes.

I have some rather costly equipment at work, but that's not exactly convenient for me for larger projects, so I picked a USB / PC model that would work for pretty much anything I'll be working on at home with greater portability than my bench scope

And the good news is that when I called MCM today, CS told me that my scope had "shipped".

Darlene.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That one I linked above would work just fine for many needs.
> 
> You could do equally well with even less costly ebay options if you wanted.
> 
> 25KHz square wave is not much of a challenge for even entry level scopes.
> 
> I have some rather costly equipment at work, but that's not exactly convenient for me for larger projects, so I picked a USB / PC model that would work for pretty much anything I'll be working on at home with greater portability than my bench scope
> 
> And the good news is that when I called MCM today, CS told me that my scope had "shipped".
> 
> Darlene.


Since the price for a SDS7102VGA+Battery has fallen to about 500SGD I had been very interested to buy one since even a basic Rigol DS1052E costs nearly 400SGD. But heh, for fan measurements I'll be fine with a 48MSa 60$ USB scope.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That one I linked above would work just fine for many needs.
> 
> You could do equally well with even less costly ebay options if you wanted.
> 
> 25KHz square wave is not much of a challenge for even entry level scopes.
> 
> I have some rather costly equipment at work, but that's not exactly convenient for me for larger projects, so I picked a USB / PC model that would work for pretty much anything I'll be working on at home with greater portability than my bench scope
> 
> And the good news is that when I called MCM today, CS told me that my scope had "shipped".
> 
> Darlene.


thanks for the information Darlene and I think I am going to be smart about this and do some more research to see exactly what I want and what might meet my needs. It has been years since I used one for anything but looking At the wave's from our SCR drives. So really don't know what I want or need or ???? that's just it I don't know... so need to relearn again... so much of this lately...

well take care and thanks again
Scott


----------



## Tobiman

What a beast! I can really appreciate the amount of work that went into this project. Are you an engineer by chance?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tobiman*
> 
> What a beast! I can really appreciate the amount of work that went into this project. *Are you an engineer by chance?*


Guilty,

But I've been in management for quite a while now, so the slide rule and calculator wristwatch are safely stashed away with my pocket protectors and I don't geek out too often any more . . . .









Darlene


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Guilty,
> 
> But I've been in management for quite a while now, so the slide rule and calculator wristwatch are safely stashed away with my pocket protectors and I don't geek out too often any more . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


lol now that is funny







I'm sure you are more than happy to get your hands dirty when you can though


----------



## IT Diva

A little update:

Picking up from where we left off a couple pages back, . . . .

My Dimestech Easy XL Tech Bench arrived and it's a solid unit in general, the build quality overall is quite good, but they punched the rad / fan mounting holes about 1/8" too low on the sides to fit the Black Ice rads, which they state in the product description as being compatible.

Fortunately a couple hours with the dremel and a carbide cutter and all was at least acceptable.

I put a short post on it in the WC thread, so I'll paste it here and add some new stuff tomorrow after I tidy it up a bit.

My little USB scope arrived and works nicely with the laptop. I also got a little single channel handheld scope with a little LCD screen.

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/VELLEMAN-SA-HPS140I-/72-9575

They were on special for $100 in the flyer than came with the Tenma scope, use "ST311" sale code, so I thought it might be a handy little addition. I'll get some pics up tomorrow.

Well, . . .

My Dimestech Easy XL tech bench got here a couple weeks or so ago, and it looked pretty nice, wasn't flimsy or wobbly, as B Neg had experienced.

So much for the good part.

Right in the product description, it names the SR1 rads as compatible, so I got a pair of 420's and had them nicely painted white to match, along with all the stainless steel M4 hardware I needed for a push - pull fan setup on each.

Well, the spaghetti benders lied . . . .

The holes are not punched to accommodate the width of the Black Ice rads. They are slotted where they have to be for the 20mm fan spacing, but everything is about 1/8" too low.

For the price of the damn thing, I was really p*ssed that I'd now have to mod all the fan mounting holes on both sides and shift them up about an 1/8".

At least there's enough clearance for the rad to fit if raised a little, and all that was needed was some modding to the holes.

So with the holes fixed, I installed the rads and an upper and lower extension panel on each side so that I can have a water cooling setup as a permanent part of the rig. The right side got one of my 400mm horizontal res setups on the top panel and a triple 35X pump setup on the lower panel.

I did some temporary plumbing and cabling to test everything, only to have a brand new flow meter last for less than 2 minutes. . . .

Maybe those triple 35X's spun it apart, lol . . .

I'll sort that out when I drain it to replace the first leaking BP fitting I've ever had. . . . Got a rotary 90 leaking at the rotary joint when the pumps run a little harder than 2000rpm.

So tomorrow will see the leaky fitting replaced and the cabling extensions made to tidy up the rats nest.

At least I've got it functional.

Darlene

If the top looks just slightly bowed down in the middle, it's because the bozos didn't clamp the top front piece properly when they tigged it in place, and it's got a little gap at the top edge on each end.



Here you can see where the holes needed to shift upwards to fit the SR 1 rads:



Here's the lower right side deck and mounting plate with the pump setup:



Close up of the pumps with the new EK metal replacement housings:



And a few with everything at least minimally working:







It's set up with a fully modular 1000W PSU for the main, and a 750W that's been modded for just PCIe cables and auto turn on with the main.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Looks like a time bomb


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Looks like a time bomb


I sure wouldn't want to have to go thru TSA with any of my rigs, lol . . .

But as long as it can power and cool my whole rig with all 4 GPUs, so I can set everything up before putting it in the Limo case, I'll be a happy camper.

Darlene.


----------



## socketus

great work, luv to see how you continue this build.

got much floor space left ? ;-)


----------



## kingchris

looks like something from Dr Evil (austin powers). and do you want ONE HUNDRED THOUSAND DOLLARS......


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> looks like something from Dr Evil (austin powers). and do you want ONE HUNDRED THOUSAND DOLLARS......


I think it was *ONE HUNDRED BILLION DOLLARS*


----------



## FannBlade

Looks more like a NASA laboratory!


----------



## Egami

The second pic of the res reminds me of the slushy machines with their somehow toxic looking red, blue and green coloured beverages.
Some serious luck finding that single leaking Bp fitting!


----------



## IT Diva

Got the little issues tidied up.









New flow meter installed,

Mount for the flow meter display

Leaking rotary 90 replaced,

Cables tidied up and re-routed with a bit of slack to offer future flexibility

Inverter for the res cathode mounted,

Valve added to the drain line.

It's beginning to look ready for prime time.

Couple more little add-ons and it'll be test run time for the Limo mobo . . .

Darlene


----------



## seross69

Yeah glad to see progress I was getting worried when I did not see any for a while.. v:thumb: Looking good and looks like a great idea to set everything up..


----------



## sinnedone

Those pump heatsinks look awesome! Have you checked to see if they get hot to touch?


----------



## KarlAzytzeen

LOL looks like some tipe of submarine equipment!

Iad followed the threead since i see a pair of Phantom 820 attached but this is more that just a work log!

I had made an account just to be updated.

Subbed from spain


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Those pump heatsinks look awesome! Have you checked to see if they get hot to touch?


Slightly warm after a few hours at about 3/4 speed.

They replace the stock plastic housing, and have a big thermo pad to keep them in thermal contact with the PCB.

Obviously, it voids the warranty, but it is probably the best way to cool a DDC type pump.

Darlene


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Slightly warm after a few hours at about 3/4 speed.
> 
> They replace the stock plastic housing, and have a big thermo pad to keep them in thermal contact with the PCB.
> 
> Obviously, it voids the warranty, but it is probably the best way to cool a DDC type pump.
> 
> Darlene


Same here on the BP fittings.....after all the rotary fittings I've bought, I've only had one leak on me. But considering what they cost I wasn't too happy.

I run the double heatsink + fan on my MCP35x2, don't see how you could get any cooler than that. But you're right about warranty, when one of my pumps quit the first thing they said was "you changed the wiring", but they did replace it anyway. I had taken out their massive overkill and soldered my own wiring in for a much neater sleeved solution.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Slightly warm after a few hours at about 3/4 speed.
> 
> They replace the stock plastic housing, and have a big thermo pad to keep them in thermal contact with the PCB.
> 
> Obviously, it voids the warranty, but it is probably the best way to cool a DDC type pump.
> 
> Darlene


Yeah, but voiding warranties is the name of the game.... lol









I'll probably be picking up one of those as well. They look sexy.


----------



## IT Diva

Made some more progress today . . . . .

Currently leak testing the rest of the WC setup on the tech bench, after mounting the mobo to see where I needed to place the rear deck stub-ups for the coolant connections for the GPU and CPU/mobo loops.

The tubing arcs are just taking the place of the board loops so the full WC circuit can run and bleed.

Had a couple of O rings on the barb fittings that seeped slightly at high pump flow, so changed them out and good so far.

The little 45* elbows on the back of the stub-ups pointing down are to drain the tubing so that it doesn't make a mess when it's taken off the fittings.

I still need to get a few more rotaries and valves so that all 4 are identical, but I lost count of the fittings at a bit over a hundred already . . . that's gotta be over a grand in fittings for a farkin' tech bench . . . . I need a









I'll tube up the mobo tomorrow and start loading the OS and take it for a spin around the block as long as everything meets expectations.

Assuming that goes as anticipated, then I can add the GPUs, aida64, and the Aquaero software and begin some testing.

Darlene

Latest pics:


----------



## Bart

Awesome! If that money for fittings puts a smile on your face, that's money well spent as far as I'm concerned.









P.S. what was that about management not being able to "geek out"!?!?!?!? What else have you been doing in this entire thread BUT geeking out!?!?!!? LOL!







Fantastic geek out job lady! You make the men here envious of your skills, and management level pay check.


----------



## mandrix

Finally got a better look at the replacement metal pump housings, especially the bottom. They are pretty neat, I didn't realize exactly how the bottom was made and that they had been out since last November.
Couldn't find them in the US.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Finally got a better look at the replacement metal pump housings, especially the bottom. They are pretty neat, I didn't realize exactly how the bottom was made and that they had been out since last November.
> Couldn't find them in the US.


I got them from PPC's:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39644

available in black and nickel.

The rubber isolators are very effective and come with the kit.

Doing away with the plastic housing that can't transfer heat from the PCB effectively is a leap forward.

No need for a giant heatsink that can't even keep the PCB as cool any more.

I'll probably co back at some point and retro fit these to my other dual 35X setups that have the big heatsink.

Darlene


----------



## EPiiKK

This certainly seems like a resonable lan box


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I got them from PPC's:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39644
> 
> available in black and nickel.
> 
> The rubber isolators are very effective and come with the kit.
> 
> Doing away with the plastic housing that can't transfer heat from the PCB effectively is a leap forward.
> 
> No need for a giant heatsink that can't even keep the PCB as cool any more.
> 
> I'll probably co back at some point and retro fit these to my other dual 35X setups that have the big heatsink.
> 
> Darlene


Ah, I missed them somehow. But I'm pretty happy with my setup, the dual size heatsink and fan keeps my pumps cool. If I was starting fresh I would probably check out the metal ones, though.

Meant to add I ran a thermister under my pumps for a long time and never saw >30C and usually much less.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I run the double heatsink + fan on my MCP35x2, don't see how you could get any cooler than that. But you're right about warranty, when one of my pumps quit the first thing they said was "you changed the wiring", but they did replace it anyway. I had taken out their massive overkill and soldered my own wiring in for a much neater sleeved solution.


I did the same, though kept the original wiring .... haven't gotten around to sleeving tho, ...../haven't connected the fan yet tho, gotta make a cable







.... but ir rarelt geta above half speed (1586 now)


----------



## TATH

Work tru 90 pages.

Just one word "Wouw" . You must be a Jack Russel "byte in and never let go". Great work.


----------



## Egami

Would that mean this the Chuck Norris of all rigs?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Would that mean this the Chuck Norris of all rigs?


Nah..... then it would have to be covered top to bottom, front and back with hair







..... this is pretty.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I got them from PPC's:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39644
> 
> available in black and nickel.
> 
> The rubber isolators are very effective and come with the kit.
> 
> Doing away with the plastic housing that can't transfer heat from the PCB effectively is a leap forward.
> 
> No need for a giant heatsink that can't even keep the PCB as cool any more.
> 
> I'll probably co back at some point and retro fit these to my other dual 35X setups that have the big heatsink.
> 
> Darlene


Man, I wish I would have seen these before getting the dual sink I picked up







I like these much better.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Nah..... then it would have to be covered top to bottom, front and back with hair
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... this is pretty.


ahahahaha Nice


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Would that mean this the Chuck Norris of all rigs?


I think at this point it's more like, "Chuck Norris is the IT Diva of action movies"









She deserves her own OCN fanclub


----------



## IT Diva

We have a system
















Leak tested the mobo loop, plugged up the power cables, and started loading an OS.

So far . . So good.

761MB of 161 Windows Updates in progress.

Running everything at stock clocks for now, except the XMP profile for the memory.

Tomorrow I'll put in the GPUs and set up Xfire.

I'm surprised at just how much all the complexity of the mobo loop has cut down on the flow rate performance.

With just the two 420 rads in the loop, I could max at 2.5 GPM, with the mobo in the loop, max is 1.7, and I get a nice 1GPM at 3000 RPM.

Will be interesting to see what I get after adding in the GPU's tomorrow . . . . .

May have to add another triple 35X setup to the loop









Darlene

Running those 161 updates, . . .



Ohhh, and of course I had to polish the connector block for the GPU's, even if it is only for use in the test bench setup.


----------



## Bart

Thinking about ditching the mobo cooling as part of the loop Darlene? It's not much benefit, complicates the tubing, etc.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Thinking about ditching the mobo cooling as part of the loop Darlene? It's not much benefit, complicates the tubing, etc.


Not in the least . . . .

All the plumbing is already run, and besides . . . . .

It looks awesome, and the build has a dual D5 setup just for the CPU/mobo loop, so flow rate is not going to be a problem.

I just thought it was interesting how much load all the mobo blocks add, and thought I'd mention it in case guys with a single pump were thinking about adding a mobo block to the CPU loop.

Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

I was actually unpleasantly suprised that i'm only gettng 0.8GPM on my temporary Apogee Drive II/XT45 360 test bench setup with the 35x turned up all the way.

I was planning on a dual 35x anyway when i install my full loop (3xAC 290x Blocks, EK Supremacy, RIVE BE Block, Ram Blocks. 2x360's, 240, 120). Now i'm thinking i might need dual d5's instead.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Not in the least . . . .
> 
> All the plumbing is already run, and besides . . . . .
> 
> It looks awesome, and the build has a dual D5 setup just for the CPU/mobo loop, so flow rate is not going to be a problem.
> 
> I just thought it was interesting how much load all the mobo blocks add, and thought I'd mention it in case guys with a single pump were thinking about adding a mobo block to the CPU loop.
> 
> Darlene


Cool, that's good info for the community. I'm only a semi-noob with water, but in my limited experience, it seems that flow rate doesn't really impact temperatures (within reason of course). With dual D5's just for CPU/mobo, that's pretty much a moot point.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> May have to add another triple 35X setup to the loop


I'd love to have seen the (3) 35x2's w/ white tops in there .... all sitting on their little heat sink stands


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> May have to add another triple 35X setup to the loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd love to have seen the (3) 35x2's w/ white tops in there .... all sitting on their little heat sink stands
Click to expand...

I'm really quite happy with the way the XSPC triple top works out. . . . .

Nice and compact, not to mention it saves all the interconnect hassles.



Though just a quick measurement seems to allow for a second triple in line with the first if I shift it back a tad and move the flow meter display to the top deck, or I could add a double with just moving the flow meter display . . . .

I wonder if my custom PWM controllers can run 5 or 6 pumps simultaneously . . . .

Ohhhhhhh, just realized that it has run all 6 of my PWM D5's many times, 35X's shouldn't be any harder.









Only one way to find out . . . .









Of course the ~$400 tab after shipping is a rather sobering kick in the cooter . . . .

Think I'll wait until I see what kind of flow rates I get with all 4 GPU's installed before I hit the final "check out" button.

I have 2 GPU's in now, and running them with a serial block, so that should be exactly twice as restrictive as the quad, semi parallel block and I max at 1.4 GPM, while having had to bump up the RPM from 3400 to 3800 to maintain a 1.0GPM flow rate over the 3400RPM it took for 1.0 GPM with a single GPU. Max flow with a single GPU was 1.4GPM.

I was getting 1.0 GPM at 3000 rpm with just the CPU/mobo in the loop, and could max at 1.7GPM.

Darlene

To update a bit;

Here's with the first GPU in the loop:





And with 2 in Xfire:


----------



## vaporizer

sweet, more testing. love the work so far.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm really quite happy with the way the XSPC triple top works out. . . . .
> 
> Nice and compact, not to mention it saves all the interconnect hassles


I just love the look of the 35x2's HS sitting on it's lil legs .... looks like some overgrown nanobot that's about ready to start walking across the case floor.


----------



## IT Diva

Some pretty nice results . . .

All 4 of the 290X's are in and happy.

The dual PSU setup is working as anticipated

Latest aida64 is installed and updated

All the windows updates are current and Kaspersky's AV has 364 days left on it's license, lol.

For a tech bench, this setup is pretty capable.

With quadfire setup, the flow rate is pretty decent . . . .

Back to getting 1.0 GPM at 3400 to 3500rpm with a max of 1.4 GPM @ ~4800.

Since each GPU gets 1/2 the flow rate, I like having a little reserve so I can keep the flow over 0.5 to 0.6 GPM thru each one, so I'll put adding in another triple pump setup on the back burner for now.

It might be different if this was it's permanent home, but it's just temporary to get it all setup and do some testing before it gets moved into its Stretch Limo home.

On the dual PSU setup the PSU on the left is one of the new NZXT Hale 90 V2 1000W fully modular ones, while the one on the right is an older Hale 90 (V1) 750W.

The 1000W is the main PSU that runs the CPU, 2 GPU's and the pumps & fans etc.

The 750W is the secondary PSU for the second pair of GPU's, with the 24pin and 8 pin cables removed, and a relay installed so it plugs into an unused PCIe connection on the main PSU, and turns on and off when it does.

It's just about the same as the Stretch Limo setup, except that's a 1200W main, and 1000W secondary

Anyhooooooo, I'm just about ready to plug in the Aquaeros and stumble my way thru Aquasuite, so I made to sure to lay in a supply of alcoholic beverages to ease that frustration









Darlene

So here's the pics:


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## sadeter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Some pretty nice results . . .
> 
> All 4 of the 290X's are in and happy.
> 
> The dual PSU setup is working as anticipated
> 
> Latest aida64 is installed and updated
> 
> All the windows updates are current and Kaspersky's AV has 364 days left on it's license, lol.
> 
> *For a tech bench*, this setup is pretty capable.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> So here's the pics:


What's insane is that, for most people, this would be a full build unto itself with full build log and everything.


----------



## Egami

Just realised that you're going to have a bukkitload of cables to deal with. Got any cunning plans regarding them?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Just realized that you're going to have a bukkitload of cables to deal with. Got any cunning plans regarding them?


That issue has not escaped my planning . . . .

It still needs a bit more work to finish up the backside cabling, but this gives a pretty good idea of what's there that has to be worked with, in addition to the usual PSU mobo cables and 4 pairs of GPU cables. The SSD's will go in the center area on a little acrylic carrier:







Towards solving the critical mass of cables and the lack of cubic inches of space to manage them in,

I created this fancy dancy back side panel with the big grills that extend about 5cm out from the normal position of the side panel.



Should provide enough additional space for the mass of cables and auxiliary power supplies for the fans and pumps.

Darlene


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> That issue has not escaped my planning . . . .
> 
> It still needs a bit more work to finish up the backside cabling, but this gives a pretty good idea of what's there that has to be worked with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Towards solving the critical mass of cables and the lack of cubic inches of space to manage them in,
> 
> 
> I created this fancy dancy back side panel with the big grills that extend about 5cm out from the normal position of the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Should provide enough additional space for the mass of cables and auxiliary power supplies for the fans and pumps.
> 
> Darlene


All computer cases should come with fancy dancy side panels which extend out for cable management. Amazing work, I love coming here to see the progress.


----------



## Egami

Make that two bukkitfulls...

Very cunning way of dealing with the cable overdose that extended back panel. My solution would have been to scream like a girl and lose my mind.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Make that two bukkitfulls...
> 
> Very cunning way of dealing with the cable overdose that extended back panel. My solution would have been to scream like a girl and lose my mind.


I tried that solution first, since it comes rather naturally, and seeing as how it didn't work very well, proceeded with the "Plan B" solution shown above.









Darlene


----------



## mandrix

If you want an easy way to download all the updates ahead of a Windows install, check out Windows Update Downloader. Then if you want you can just slipstream them all into an install disk with Windows using RT7lite.


----------



## IT Diva

A little more progress . . . .

The down side to quad GPU's with waterblocks is that the 4th one really obstructs the connection headers on the lower edge of the mobo.

I'll be able to dremel some reliefs when I take everything back apart to fit it all in the Stretch Limo, but it's a bit tricky with the cards installed.

I needed USB to set up the Aquaeros, so I was able to dremel a little relief . . . . enough to fit a single row connector on the outer row of pins, so I made up a shorty USB cable to run from there over to where I have a USB expansion module mounted on the tech bench.

Had to make a usable power cable for the expansion module as well, since it comes with a short, stubby, POS of a power cable on a pass thru molex.

I have a second module in the build as well, since the R4BE is a bit short on USB headers and the lower GPU may not allow for more than single row connectors on either header.

So at least now I have USB to set up the aquaeros, and I put the 4 pin molex power in to the lower mobo connection.

Also, some nice new parts arrived;

Extensions for the tech bench temp sensors, so now I have temps displayed.

I also plugged in the USB 3 cable from the display, so I have front panel USB 3 now as well . . . .









Lots of fittings arrived to tidy up the tech bench plumbing a bit, and to replace some of my stock that I depleted mercilessly setting up the tech bench . . . I lost count at just over a hundred while trying to count them, and decided I really did not want to know how many more past 100 there were.

And finally, another flow meter to keep on hand, since I used my last one to replace the one that borked. . . . which strangely, after a couple whacks on the counter top, spins again.

Accuracy and reliability are, of course, another matter . . .

There's also 2 more PWM D5's on the way, but that's another post in itself.

Darlene

So here's the pics:


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Darlene just looking at this build grow over the previous months you have convinced me to start another build. Just that test bench alone is seXXXy! I made a test bench out of my old HAF912, but it would be nice to buy a real one. Anyways, I love everything Darlene. Going to be sad yet extremely excited to see the final product. Sad because it's going to be over







This has sure been a long time coming though!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Darlene just looking at this build grow over the previous months you have convinced me to start another build. Just that test bench alone is seXXXy! I made a test bench out of my old HAF912, but it would be nice to buy a real one. Anyways, I love everything Darlene. Going to be sad yet extremely excited to see the final product. Sad because it's going to be over
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This has sure been a long time coming though!


Sorry for not posting more updates here, but I've been a bit sidetracked with sorting out why the PWM D5 pumps did not work with the AQ6.

I've sorted it out, and have built some prototype active PWM source adapters that let the AQ6 run the D5's perfectly.

Most of that discussion about that has been in the Aquaero 6 thread, but here's a copy of the latest revision results:

I did a little tweaking on my circuit to run the PWM D5's from the Aquaero 6. . . . . . Actually, I redesigned it . . .









It's even better than the original, now that I know more from having built the first one.

I went from a voltage follower circuit to an inverting Schmitt Trigger using a 555 chip, and a common NPN transistor to correct for the inversion.

The pulse shape is now a normal square, and the amplitude is right at 5V at the D5 PWM pin.

I set min power to 20% and max at 78% which gives me ~800 RPM to ~4500 RPM using the slider from 1% to 99%.

In the scope pics, the top green trace is the A6 output, and the lower yellow trace is my circuit's output going to the two D5's PWM pins.

Tomorrow, I'll see if I can't design a PCB for it, which should make it a lot easier to build a 4 channel one. . . . One for each pair of pumps and a spare.

I'll also see if I can't create a PCB for a single channel, minimum parts count version.

Darlene





And the test D5 setup at minimum speed:



Here's the circuit prototype on some RadioShack perfboard:



I did do the PCB design as planned.

Actually I made 2 variations, one that has a single 5V voltage regulator for 3 channels, and one with 4 channels that has each channel powered individually from a Zener diode regulator.

The individually powered config would allow to cut the board into segments for however many units were needed.

The common power source, 3 channel setup, is the one I made specifically to go in the Stretch Limo.

The PCB is just the right size to fit sideways in the bay right behind the AQ6, mounted on a little piece of acrylic

It will allow the one of the AQ6's to control the 3 pairs of D5's when I don't have them switched to the manual controller.

Anyway, there's just a few more things I want to look at while I have everything set up on the tech bench, and then I'll move it all into the Stretch Limo

Darlene


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for not posting more updates here, but I've been a bit sidetracked with sorting out why the PWM D5 pumps did not work with the AQ6.
> 
> I've sorted it out, and have built some prototype active PWM source adapters that let the AQ6 run the D5's perfectly.
> 
> Most of that discussion about that has been in the Aquaero 6 thread, but here's a copy of the latest revision results:
> 
> I did a little tweaking on my circuit to run the PWM D5's from the Aquaero 6. . . . . . Actually, I redesigned it . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's even better than the original, now that I know more from having built the first one.
> 
> I went from a voltage follower circuit to an inverting Schmitt Trigger using a 555 chip, and a common NPN transistor to correct for the inversion.
> 
> The pulse shape is now a normal square, and the amplitude is right at 5V at the D5 PWM pin.
> 
> I set min power to 20% and max at 78% which gives me ~800 RPM to ~4500 RPM using the slider from 1% to 99%.
> 
> In the scope pics, the top green trace is the A6 output, and the lower yellow trace is my circuit's output going to the two D5's PWM pins.
> 
> Tomorrow, I'll see if I can't design a PCB for it, which should make it a lot easier to build a 4 channel one. . . . One for each pair of pumps and a spare.
> 
> I'll also see if I can't create a PCB for a single channel, minimum parts count version.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the test D5 setup at minimum speed:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the circuit prototype on some RadioShack perfboard:
> 
> 
> 
> I did do the PCB design as planned.
> 
> Actually I made 2 variations, one that has a single 5V voltage regulator for 3 channels, and one with 4 channels that has each channel powered individually from a Zener diode regulator.
> 
> The individually powered config would allow to cut the board into segments for however many units were needed.
> 
> The common power source, 3 channel setup, is the one I made specifically to go in the Stretch Limo.
> 
> The PCB is just the right size to fit sideways in the bay right behind the AQ6, mounted on a little piece of acrylic
> 
> It will allow the one of the AQ6's to control the 3 pairs of D5's when I don't have them switched to the manual controller.
> 
> Anyway, there's just a few more things I want to look at while I have everything set up on the tech bench, and then I'll move it all into the Stretch Limo
> 
> Darlene


Wow nice mod! I'm thinking about buying an Aquero 6 and throwing it in my Mountain Mods Build. For all the money I've already spent on this build I think the least it deserves is a nice Aquero 6. I have 15 fans in this build and am running 3 fan controllers to control them all. Would I be able to control all 15 through the Aquero 6 if I buy some splitters?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for not posting more updates here, but I've been a bit sidetracked with sorting out why the PWM D5 pumps did not work with the AQ6.
> 
> I've sorted it out, and have built some prototype active PWM source adapters that let the AQ6 run the D5's perfectly.
> 
> Most of that discussion about that has been in the Aquaero 6 thread, but here's a copy of the latest revision results:
> 
> I did a little tweaking on my circuit to run the PWM D5's from the Aquaero 6. . . . . . Actually, I redesigned it . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's even better than the original, now that I know more from having built the first one.
> 
> I went from a voltage follower circuit to an inverting Schmitt Trigger using a 555 chip, and a common NPN transistor to correct for the inversion.
> 
> The pulse shape is now a normal square, and the amplitude is right at 5V at the D5 PWM pin.
> 
> I set min power to 20% and max at 78% which gives me ~800 RPM to ~4500 RPM using the slider from 1% to 99%.
> 
> In the scope pics, the top green trace is the A6 output, and the lower yellow trace is my circuit's output going to the two D5's PWM pins.
> 
> Tomorrow, I'll see if I can't design a PCB for it, which should make it a lot easier to build a 4 channel one. . . . One for each pair of pumps and a spare.
> 
> I'll also see if I can't create a PCB for a single channel, minimum parts count version.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the test D5 setup at minimum speed:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the circuit prototype on some RadioShack perfboard:
> 
> 
> 
> I did do the PCB design as planned.
> 
> Actually I made 2 variations, one that has a single 5V voltage regulator for 3 channels, and one with 4 channels that has each channel powered individually from a Zener diode regulator.
> 
> The individually powered config would allow to cut the board into segments for however many units were needed.
> 
> The common power source, 3 channel setup, is the one I made specifically to go in the Stretch Limo.
> 
> The PCB is just the right size to fit sideways in the bay right behind the AQ6, mounted on a little piece of acrylic
> 
> It will allow the one of the AQ6's to control the 3 pairs of D5's when I don't have them switched to the manual controller.
> 
> Anyway, there's just a few more things I want to look at while I have everything set up on the tech bench, and then I'll move it all into the Stretch Limo
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow nice mod! I'm thinking about buying an Aquero 6 and throwing it in my Mountain Mods Build. For all the money I've already spent on this build I think the least it deserves is a nice Aquero 6. I have 15 fans in this build and am running 3 fan controllers to control them all. Would I be able to control all 15 through the Aquero 6 if I buy some splitters?
Click to expand...

Pretty much depends on what kind of fans, how much power they need, and if they are PWM or not.

The new A6 is pretty sweet, and a major improvement from the 5.

Check out the A6 thread:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1423333/aquacomputer-aquaero-6/1760#post_21838094

Darlene


----------



## enRodjavel

MODz coming along nicely =D


----------



## wthenshaw

How did the custom pcb add on thingy for the AQ6 go Darlene?


----------



## S1lv3rflame

WOHOO! Black Board ftw!








Got a good chip Darlene?


----------



## Vooyah

Did I miss the finished product? Or is this still a work in progress?


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vooyah*
> 
> Did I miss the finished product? Or is this still a work in progress?


Still going AFAIK.

Darlene is probably working on real life things or other projects


----------



## Llamaluvr97

Horey moley, Its beautiful


----------



## kpforce1

It's a unicorn.... a BIG beautiful shiny one horned mythical creature.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> It's a unicorn.... a BIG beautiful shiny one horned mythical creature.


Where the hell have you been


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Where the hell have you been


I know I know.... life my friend.... life. Got married, fixing vehicles, vacation, etc. etc.







Good news is I should be able to start working on Force1 again soon.


----------



## Caruban

Dearest Darlene,

As the mother of this fine machine with no father in sight, I believe it is only customary that I ask your permission for it's hand in marriage. While I may not be able to provide much in a dowry, I am confident that I can provide thoroughly and completely for your machine, and I will only treat it with the upmost respect and love it deserves.

I eagerly await your reply.
Caruban


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caruban*
> 
> Dearest Darlene,
> 
> As the mother of this fine machine with no father in sight, I believe it is only customary that I ask your permission for it's hand in marriage. While I may not be able to provide much in a dowry, I am confident that I can provide thoroughly and completely for your machine, and I will only treat it with the upmost respect and love it deserves.
> 
> I eagerly await your reply.
> Caruban


lol that is great. Caruban foud his "Her"


----------



## kpforce1

Darlene, hope all is well.... I'm still itching to get my ITDiva fix







Any updates?


----------



## IT Diva

Kinda put it on the back burner for a while more.

Wanted to have it all completed by my B'day in February, but I built the tech station and put it all together there for some testing on the new Aquaero, and then I got picked to be one of the EK Ascendacy testers, so I left it all on the tech bench anticipating that.

It took longer than they expected to get it out to us testers, but we have it now in just the last week or so.

Once the Ascendacy has been thoroughly flogged, I guess it'll be time to finish up the Limo.

It's also summer time, and my Harley gets impatient when I nerd out too much.

Darlene


----------



## sinnedone

That is an awesome looking backdrop. I definitely understand why you want to cruise there. You're not in PR are you?


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Kinda put it on the back burner for a while more.
> 
> Wanted to have it all completed by my B'day in February, but I built the tech station and put it all together there for some testing on the new Aquaero, and then I got picked to be one of the EK Ascendacy testers, so I left it all on the tech bench anticipating that.
> 
> It took longer than they expected to get it out to us testers, but we have it now in just the last week or so.
> 
> Once the Ascendacy has been thoroughly flogged, I guess it'll be time to finish up the Limo.
> 
> It's also summer time, and my Harley gets impatient when I nerd out too much.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Cant put a spoiler on the picture now because of the restriction at work.

But i like the picture "where is that" nice holiday side.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> That is an awesome looking backdrop. I definitely understand why you want to cruise there. You're not in PR are you?


I'm in the U.S. Virgin Islands. (St. Croix)

We're about 40 miles east of Puerto Rico.

The background in that pic is Point Udahl, which is the eastern most point of the United States.

This is the largest of the 3 main islands at about 84 square miles in area, and about 25 miles long as the road meanders.

Lots of beaches and beach bars with good food and Coronas. . . . . helps me balance out the nerd in me.

Darlene


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Kinda put it on the back burner for a while more.
> 
> Wanted to have it all completed by my B'day in February, but I built the tech station and put it all together there for some testing on the new Aquaero, and then I got picked to be one of the EK Ascendacy testers, so I left it all on the tech bench anticipating that.
> 
> It took longer than they expected to get it out to us testers, but we have it now in just the last week or so.
> 
> Once the Ascendacy has been thoroughly flogged, I guess it'll be time to finish up the Limo.
> 
> It's also summer time, and my Harley gets impatient when I nerd out too much.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm in the U.S. Virgin Islands. (St. Croix)
> 
> We're about 40 miles east of Puerto Rico.
> 
> The background in that pic is Point Udahl, which is the eastern most point of the United States.
> 
> This is the largest of the 3 main islands at about 84 square miles in area, and about 25 miles long as the road meanders.
> 
> Lots of beaches and beach bars with good food and Coronas. . . . . helps me balance out the nerd in me.
> 
> Darlene


I completely understand that







I really wish I would have taken a job in St. Croix. I may yet


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm in the U.S. Virgin Islands. (St. Croix)
> 
> We're about 40 miles east of Puerto Rico.
> 
> The background in that pic is Point Udahl, which is the eastern most point of the United States.
> 
> This is the largest of the 3 main islands at about 84 square miles in area, and about 25 miles long as the road meanders.
> 
> Lots of beaches and beach bars with good food and Coronas. . . . . helps me balance out the nerd in me.
> 
> Darlene


Oh I'm definitely jealous right now. Looks like a great time, Just driving up and down the coast at the small food shops and eat a little bit of everything.... man I miss that. Definitely enjoy yourself.


----------



## Prath

Omg face hurts... Just got through reading and gawking the entire thread... Loss for words... Very nice MacGyvering Darlene. So jealous...


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Kinda put it on the back burner for a while more.
> 
> Wanted to have it all completed by my B'day in February, but I built the tech station and put it all together there for some testing on the new Aquaero, and then I got picked to be one of the EK Ascendacy testers, so I left it all on the tech bench anticipating that.
> 
> It took longer than they expected to get it out to us testers, but we have it now in just the last week or so.
> 
> Once the Ascendacy has been thoroughly flogged, I guess it'll be time to finish up the Limo.
> 
> 
> It's also summer time, and my Harley gets impatient when I nerd out too much.
> 
> Darlene


Nice! I actually got another Harley-powered bike a few months ago


----------



## wthenshaw

I guess I'm the baby here then, this will be mine in the next couple months.


----------



## ssgtnubb

Long time lurker to this thread, how's things going on in this crazy build, so cool lol, to have the space you have just for doing this, I'm envious, my wife hates it whenever I do anything to my builds.


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

OK, so 943 posts later...







What a beast! I was hoping to see the final build this many pages deep, but I guess it is as my wife says... good things come to those who wait. Subbed and eagerly awaiting some updated snaps of this s-t-r-e-t-c-h build.

Extremely envious, both of your rig workshop AND the view. Spent my honeymoon in St. Thomas, about 5 minutes from Redhook. Such a beautiful thing to wake up to in the morning.


----------



## Retell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Looks like the US retailers will have the mobo block around the first part of January . . . . .
> 
> So until then, I can't actual finish the mobo plumbing, but I did mount it in place so I could start on the other tubing runs and be sure I had access holes for all the cabling.
> 
> The top rad is just too big to fit even the 20mm thick fans above the mobo, but I did some mods to one of them, and when the mobo comes back out, if I trim the ears off the top right row of ram latches, at least one will fit.
> 
> Their lighting effect is pretty important.
> 
> I'll see how much the loss of 1 fan is made up for by a light panel on the top GPU's backplate.
> 
> I had to make a little mod to the bridge I made for the lower 2 GPU's, but I can take the PSU cover out and back in now with all the plumbing in place.
> 
> You can see that each area is pretty modular, the upper 2 GPU's and the top rad with an "in" and "out" white revolver fitting to matchup to the in and out white revolver fittings on the white pump/res module.
> 
> The same for the lower GPU's and lower rad, with in and out blue revolver fittings to match up to the blue pump/res module.
> 
> The mobo is the red loop, and matches to the red pump/res module, . . . you can see how the mobo routes to the rear panel with the QD's for the external rad on the back side and red revolver fittings for the hookup to the red pump/res module.
> 
> Hopefully, I've maintained pretty good consistency as I've plumbed the different areas.
> 
> I'll be looking to make little tweaks while I wait on the mobo block from EK.
> 
> . . . . . . . . And then there's allllllll the cabling this monster has to put in . . .
> 
> Hope you like the progress so far.
> 
> Darlene


I think this is the first post I've made since leaving NZXT. Someone reposted these pictures on Facebook recently. I cannot believe just how far you took this! Moreover, how did I not see these until just now?! Amazing job Darlene. Top modder in my book, bar none.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Retell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Looks like the US retailers will have the mobo block around the first part of January . . . . .
> 
> So until then, I can't actual finish the mobo plumbing, but I did mount it in place so I could start on the other tubing runs and be sure I had access holes for all the cabling.
> 
> The top rad is just too big to fit even the 20mm thick fans above the mobo, but I did some mods to one of them, and when the mobo comes back out, if I trim the ears off the top right row of ram latches, at least one will fit.
> 
> Their lighting effect is pretty important.
> 
> I'll see how much the loss of 1 fan is made up for by a light panel on the top GPU's backplate.
> 
> I had to make a little mod to the bridge I made for the lower 2 GPU's, but I can take the PSU cover out and back in now with all the plumbing in place.
> 
> You can see that each area is pretty modular, the upper 2 GPU's and the top rad with an "in" and "out" white revolver fitting to matchup to the in and out white revolver fittings on the white pump/res module.
> 
> The same for the lower GPU's and lower rad, with in and out blue revolver fittings to match up to the blue pump/res module.
> 
> The mobo is the red loop, and matches to the red pump/res module, . . . you can see how the mobo routes to the rear panel with the QD's for the external rad on the back side and red revolver fittings for the hookup to the red pump/res module.
> 
> Hopefully, I've maintained pretty good consistency as I've plumbed the different areas.
> 
> I'll be looking to make little tweaks while I wait on the mobo block from EK.
> 
> . . . . . . . . And then there's allllllll the cabling this monster has to put in . . .
> 
> Hope you like the progress so far.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> I think this is the first post I've made since leaving NZXT. Someone reposted these pictures on Facebook recently. I cannot believe just how far you took this! Moreover, how did I not see these until just now?! Amazing job Darlene. Top modder in my book, bar none.
Click to expand...

Thanks man, . . . Where you at now . . still in the industry?

It's taking a while longer than anticipated, but I had other things come up along the way that caught my imagination, and so since this is rather a labor of love, I like to work on it when the mood and patience is just right. . . . . No reason to rush the last bits just to call it finished.

I'll have the chiller build done by Halloween at the latest, and then it's Limo Time".

Good to hear from you,

Darlene


----------



## Retell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks man, . . . Where you at now . . still in the industry?
> 
> It's taking a while longer than anticipated, but I had other things come up along the way that caught my imagination, and so since this is rather a labor of love, I like to work on it when the mood and patience is just right. . . . . No reason to rush the last bits just to call it finished.
> 
> I'll have the chiller build done by Halloween at the latest, and then it's Limo Time".
> 
> Good to hear from you,
> 
> Darlene


Yes! I am sales now for Asetek. It's not as glamorous or fun as a PM but still get to hang out with all the same people.

I trust in your work! Haha it's current status alone has vindicated my decision to get you this stuff. It is seriously the greatest watercooling build I've ever seen!









I'll be around still keeping an eye out.

,Rob


----------



## MrFumbles91

So the Limo is not done yet? :'(


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrFumbles91*
> 
> So the Limo is not done yet? :'(


I seem somehow to keep getting side tracked with other projects that come up, or real life in general.

On the positive side, I have several weeks of vacation time I still have to take before the end of the year or loose it, and that's the kind of time block I need to finish it up.

By the time weekends come, I just really need the down time to just be a vegetable or ride the Harley . . . often both simultaneously.

Besides, . . . . . once the Limo is done . . what do I do to top that . . .









Darlene


----------



## MrFumbles91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I seem somehow to keep getting side tracked with other projects that come up, or real life in general.
> 
> On the positive side, I have several weeks of vacation time I still have to take before the end of the year or loose it, and that's the kind of time block I need to finish it up.
> 
> By the time weekends come, I just really need the down time to just be a vegetable or ride the Harley . . . often both simultaneously.
> 
> Besides, . . . . . once the Limo is done . . what do I do to top that . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Hey thanks for the update Darlene!
I'm new to OCN and came across this thing. It's unbelievable. I have an OG Phantom myself and I can't wait to start doing some mods to it! Any suggestions on a few that I could start on?
I have pretty basic painting skills but I'm dangerously close to drilling out the rivets that hold that big nasty HDD cage in.
Also I think the fact that you're sponsored by NZXT is so awesome wish I could get on your level


----------



## wthenshaw

Scrolling instagram when...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Scrolling instagram when...


In as much as I'm clueless about whatever instagram is, can you fill me in a bit more . . .

Did someone post it as an interesting curiosity, or as their own work?

Darlene


----------



## The LAN Man

I think they posted it as a curiosity I can't find anything on that account that makes it look like they're trying to claim it as their own


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> In as much as I'm clueless about whatever instagram is, can you fill me in a bit more . . .
> 
> Did someone post it as an interesting curiosity, or as their own work?
> 
> Darlene


As curiosity,

There are many accounts on there that people just post other people's high end builds and such, but what saddens me is that they never credit the creator.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> In as much as I'm clueless about whatever instagram is, can you fill me in a bit more . . .
> 
> Did someone post it as an interesting curiosity, or as their own work?
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> As curiosity,
> 
> There are many accounts on there that people just post other people's high end builds and such, but what saddens me is that they never credit the creator.
Click to expand...

I actually found it, thank you google, . . . .

Looks like a pretty benign post, and thank you for adding the credit.

I guess I really need to get off my azz and finish her up.

Darlene


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I actually found it, thank you google, . . . .
> 
> Looks like a pretty benign post, and thank you for adding the credit.
> 
> I guess I really need to get off my azz and finish her up.
> 
> Darlene


You really _really_ _really_ should. I'm anxious to see the finished product.


----------



## curly haired boy

same here!


----------



## Bart

We're ALL anxious to see the finished product!







Every time I see a new post in this thread I get a bit excited!


----------



## Bluelionpiper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I actually found it, thank you google, . . . .
> 
> Looks like a pretty benign post, and thank you for adding the credit.
> 
> I guess I really need to get off my azz and finish her up.
> 
> Darlene


PLEASE please please please please please finish her up!


----------



## wthenshaw

Pressure rises Darlene!


----------



## CyberWolf575

This entire build is absolutely nuts, it's gorgeous. I wish I had the skills to do that haha


----------



## sadeter

This build its actually what brought me to OCN. I can't wait to see it finished.


----------



## feznz

I think you got half of the internet waiting to see this insane build finished


----------



## wthenshaw

Mod of the month sponsored class winner, no doubt.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Mod of the month sponsored class winner, no doubt.


Thanks for the compliment, but very doubtful.

The biggest reason I don't follow MOTM is because most of the ones who vote, particularly the younger demographic, are not remotely capable of actually comprehending what it is they are seeing, or being able to appreciate the engineering, design, and execution skills involved.

They do however like things they think they could buy, if they had the money, and put together themselves and get the same results.

By way of example, look at the pile of newer / younger members who couldn't wait to sub up on that giant Caselabs with 10 Monsta 480 rads build, from a guy with no demonstrable knowledge or experience at that build level.

I think voting for the sponsored / pro MOTM build should have a system to weight the votes by rep and membership time /number of posts, . . . at least some way to try to get judging by more of a peer group than an ad-hoc mob.

Darlene


----------



## wthenshaw

Very good points Darlene, one good reason I don't sub to Caselabs builds because once you've seen one, you've seen them all, so to speak.

The handiwork you've put into this build with your own PCBs, your wireless remote system, and the craft(wo)manship on the chassis itself, is something that stands this build apart from others.


----------



## kpforce1

It still lives!!







Glad to see that you are still working on it. Any news on the chiller?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> It still lives!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to see that you are still working on it. Any news on the chiller?


The chiller build is pretty much done . . . couple braided extensions to swap out for shorter, tidier looking ones that were out of stock previously, but up and running nicely.

I keep promising myself to go back and flesh out the build log.

I took plenty of pics along the way, but just wasn't sitting down and keeping up with the build log write up.

Maybe I should tidy up the cables, finish the build log and enter it in MOTM . . . something to get me up off my lazy butt.

There's some pretty cool things I haven't seen done before, like the dual plate exchangers and control system to enable the chillers based on Delta t.

I'm not sure anyone's built a system designed to be a hybrid with both regular water cooling and a chiller option that enables based on need.

A few pics below:

Darlene


----------



## DaveLT

That looks as awesome as the stretched limo


----------



## curly haired boy

that's a piece of art


----------



## Jhereg10

How have I not seen this build before? This is just an incredible piece of work, head and shoulders above anything else I've seen to date. Just simply jaw-dropping. I could keep babbling on for hours.


----------



## sinnedone

Looking good IT DIva.









One nitpick though.







That acrylic mount in the rear needs a little bit of support.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> That looks as awesome as the stretched limo


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> that's a piece of art


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jhereg10*
> 
> How have I not seen this build before? This is just an incredible piece of work, head and shoulders above anything else I've seen to date. Just simply jaw-dropping. I could keep babbling on for hours.


Thanks for the compliments everyone









Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looking good IT DIva.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One nitpick though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That acrylic mount in the rear needs a little bit of support.


It has more than it appears to.

You can see the 2" aluminum angle that attaches to the Koolance bracket, and supports the weight of the res/pump assembly.

There's a little bit of flex in the acrylic as the tubing to the chiller pulls it down, but not enough to convince me to go to 3/8" or thicker acrylic.

Maybe a lower aluminum support to replace the angle stock that extends further back might be a good compromise.


----------



## MrFumbles91

Diva, out of curiousity what do you do with all these monsters?


----------



## Khaled G

Can't wait to find out the final weight of that mini science lab


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Mod of the month sponsored class winner, no doubt.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the compliment, but very doubtful.
> 
> The biggest reason I don't follow MOTM is because most of the ones who vote, particularly the younger demographic, are not remotely capable of actually comprehending what it is they are seeing, or being able to appreciate the engineering, design, and execution skills involved.
> 
> They do however like things they think they could buy, if they had the money, and put together themselves and get the same results.
> 
> By way of example, look at the pile of newer / younger members who couldn't wait to sub up on that giant Caselabs with 10 Monsta 480 rads build, from a guy with no demonstrable knowledge or experience at that build level.
> 
> I think voting for the sponsored / pro MOTM build should have a system to weight the votes by rep and membership time /number of posts, . . . at least some way to try to get judging by more of a peer group than an ad-hoc mob.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

I know what you mean......its like the Eurovision song contest that sees block voting by ex soviet car parks states.


----------



## Jhereg10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks for the compliment, but very doubtful.
> 
> The biggest reason I don't follow MOTM is because most of the ones who vote, particularly the younger demographic, are not remotely capable of actually comprehending what it is they are seeing, or being able to appreciate the engineering, design, and execution skills involved.
> 
> They do however like things they think they could buy, if they had the money, and put together themselves and get the same results.
> 
> By way of example, look at the pile of newer / younger members who couldn't wait to sub up on that giant Caselabs with 10 Monsta 480 rads build, from a guy with no demonstrable knowledge or experience at that build level.
> 
> I think voting for the sponsored / pro MOTM build should have a system to weight the votes by rep and membership time /number of posts, . . . at least some way to try to get judging by more of a peer group than an ad-hoc mob.
> 
> Darlene


Ditto this. My Relic casemod was beaten in the recent amateur-class MOTM by one that, while the final product was gorgeous, did not include nearly the amount of actual case modification that mine did. The guy did a fantastic job painting and sleeving, and incorporated a lot of nice water cooling touches and spent over $3,000 on the work. But if you really talk about "case modification" there was almost none there. Again, not downplaying the beauty of his creation, but I still feel my work should have done better from a purely technical standpoint rather than just eye-candy. Honestly, I don't think many of the people who vote are actually reviewing the build logs to see the quality of the work, but instead are just looking at the final product and deciding which is prettier.


----------



## ReaperN1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jhereg10*
> 
> Ditto this. My Relic casemod was beaten in the recent amateur-class MOTM by one that, while the final product was gorgeous, did not include nearly the amount of actual case modification that mine did. The guy did a fantastic job painting and sleeving, and incorporated a lot of nice water cooling touches and spent over $3,000 on the work. But if you really talk about "case modification" there was almost none there. Again, not downplaying the beauty of his creation, but I still feel my work should have done better from a purely technical standpoint rather than just eye-candy. Honestly, I don't think many of the people who vote are actually reviewing the build logs to see the quality of the work, but instead are just looking at the final product and deciding which is prettier.


I couldn't agree more. Once my Dark Side build is done it'll prolly get beat by something pretty with tons of money thrown at it. Your Relic got beat by a build of the month but, not a mod of the month. Sleeving and paint doesn't constitute a MOTM win in my opinion.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jhereg10*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks for the compliment, but very doubtful.
> 
> The biggest reason I don't follow MOTM is because most of the ones who vote, particularly the younger demographic, are not remotely capable of actually comprehending what it is they are seeing, or being able to appreciate the engineering, design, and execution skills involved.
> 
> They do however like things they think they could buy, if they had the money, and put together themselves and get the same results.
> 
> By way of example, look at the pile of newer / younger members who couldn't wait to sub up on that giant Caselabs with 10 Monsta 480 rads build, from a guy with no demonstrable knowledge or experience at that build level.
> 
> I think voting for the sponsored / pro MOTM build should have a system to weight the votes by rep and membership time /number of posts, . . . at least some way to try to get judging by more of a peer group than an ad-hoc mob.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Ditto this. My Relic casemod was beaten in the recent amateur-class MOTM by one that, while the final product was gorgeous, did not include nearly the amount of actual case modification that mine did. The guy did a fantastic job painting and sleeving, and incorporated a lot of nice water cooling touches and spent over $3,000 on the work. But if you really talk about "case modification" there was almost none there. Again, not downplaying the beauty of his creation, but I still feel my work should have done better from a purely technical standpoint rather than just eye-candy. *Honestly, I don't think many of the people who vote are actually reviewing the build logs to see the quality of the work, but instead are just looking at the final product and deciding which is prettier.*
Click to expand...

That is the point tho,its not the technicality,its the final result. The log can only educate you as to the methods and skill of the modder,its the end product that is being judged.
Im talking about block 'friendship' voting,I think that there should be 3 votes for each voter with a minimum 20 rep entrance bar. That way you dont get family and friends making accounts to bolster votes and you vote for your 1st,2nd and 3rd choices.

Bit-Tech get around this by letting you vote for whoever you like and have logs in late stages rather than finished.

And all this is OT.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That is the point tho,its not the technicality,its the final result. The log can only educate you as to the methods and skill of the modder,its the end product that is being judged.
> Im talking about block 'friendship' voting,I think that there should be 3 votes for each voter with a minimum 20 rep entrance bar. That way you dont get family and friends making accounts to bolster votes and *you vote for your 1st,2nd and 3rd choices*.
> 
> Bit-Tech get around this by letting you vote for whoever you like and have logs in late stages rather than finished.
> 
> And all this is OT.


Sorry for the continued OT IT Diva, but I really like that idea BNeg. Maybe drop the rep down to 5 or something though.


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## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jhereg10*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks for the compliment, but very doubtful.
> 
> The biggest reason I don't follow MOTM is because most of the ones who vote, particularly the younger demographic, are not remotely capable of actually comprehending what it is they are seeing, or being able to appreciate the engineering, design, and execution skills involved.
> 
> They do however like things they think they could buy, if they had the money, and put together themselves and get the same results.
> 
> By way of example, look at the pile of newer / younger members who couldn't wait to sub up on that giant Caselabs with 10 Monsta 480 rads build, from a guy with no demonstrable knowledge or experience at that build level.
> 
> I think voting for the sponsored / pro MOTM build should have a system to weight the votes by rep and membership time /number of posts, . . . at least some way to try to get judging by more of a peer group than an ad-hoc mob.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Ditto this. My Relic casemod was beaten in the recent amateur-class MOTM by one that, while the final product was gorgeous, did not include nearly the amount of actual case modification that mine did. The guy did a fantastic job painting and sleeving, and incorporated a lot of nice water cooling touches and spent over $3,000 on the work. But if you really talk about "case modification" there was almost none there. Again, not downplaying the beauty of his creation, but I still feel my work should have done better from a purely technical standpoint rather than just eye-candy. *Honestly, I don't think many of the people who vote are actually reviewing the build logs to see the quality of the work, but instead are just looking at the final product and deciding which is prettier.*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *That is the point tho,its not the technicality,its the final result. The log can only educate you as to the methods and skill of the modder,its the end product that is being judged.
> Im talking about block 'friendship' voting,I think that there should be 3 votes for each voter with a minimum 20 rep entrance bar. That way you dont get family and friends making accounts to bolster votes and you vote for your 1st,2nd and 3rd choices.
> *
> Bit-Tech get around this by letting you vote for whoever you like and have logs in late stages rather than finished.
> 
> And all this is OT.
Click to expand...

Once again, while not always sharing the same eye for aesthetics, . . . We do seem to think much along the same line . . . . . .GMTA

That's actually a splendid idea . . . . 1 vote for your mate and 2 votes for what actually deserves recognition.

I'd bump the rep requirement to 30, or whatever is the same as needed to use the market place.

I think more seasoned builders/modders automatically learn to factor in the "Difficulty Level" when looking at the overall picture . . . . kind of like judging gymnastics or figure skating.

An overall result that looks like a 10, but had a difficulty level of 6 shouldn't trump an overall result of 8 or 9, that had a DL of 9 or 10.

For newer builders, the time it takes as they build their rep, they also are learning a lot from their interactions, so that by the time they have 20 or 30 reps, they see things thru much different eyes than before.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That is the point tho,its not the technicality,its the final result. The log can only educate you as to the methods and skill of the modder,its the end product that is being judged.
> Im talking about block 'friendship' voting,I think that there should be 3 votes for each voter with a minimum 20 rep entrance bar. That way you dont get family and friends making accounts to bolster votes and *you vote for your 1st,2nd and 3rd choices*.
> 
> Bit-Tech get around this by letting you vote for whoever you like and have logs in late stages rather than finished.
> 
> And all this is OT.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the continued OT IT Diva, but I really like that idea BNeg. *Maybe drop the rep down to 5 or something though.*
Click to expand...

Nooooooooo . . . . . .

Don't drop the rep level below the marketplace level . . . you can get 5 reps around here for spelling your name right when you create your account.

I don't mind the OT, gives us a chance to speak our minds a bit.

It also brings me to the Limo build log that prods me towards getting refocused back on this project once Diva's Dementia is done.

Darlene


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## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Once again, while not always sharing the same eye for aesthetics, . . . We do seem to think much along the same line . . . . . .GMTA
> 
> That's actually a splendid idea . . . . 1 vote for your mate and 2 votes for what actually deserves recognition.
> 
> I'd bump the rep requirement to 30, or whatever is the same as needed to use the market place.
> 
> I think more seasoned builders/modders automatically learn to factor in the "Difficulty Level" when looking at the overall picture . . . . kind of like judging gymnastics or figure skating.
> 
> An overall result that looks like a 10, but had a difficulty level of 6 shouldn't trump an overall result of 8 or 9, that had a DL of 9 or 10.
> 
> For newer builders, the time it takes as they build their rep, they also are learning a lot from their interactions, so that by the time they have 20 or 30 reps, they see things thru much different eyes than before.
> Nooooooooo . . . . . .
> 
> Don't drop the rep level below the marketplace level . . . you can get 5 reps around here for spelling your name right when you create your account.
> 
> I don't mind the OT, gives us a chance to speak our minds a bit.
> 
> It also brings me to the Limo build log that prods me towards getting refocused back on this project once Diva's Dementia is done.
> 
> Darlene


LOL, spelling your name right.









I guess my thought on that one was that while many newcomers have no idea of what it takes to put a build together there are many that have skills in other areas. I personally have a background in custom cars and can spot an off the shelf build from far away. That would exclude my votes unless I was a very active member. Others have different skill sets such as wood and metal work, or maybe someone like yourself who has skills in everything electronic.









I can definitely see the other side of the argument though.


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## Jhereg10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That's actually a splendid idea . . . . 1 vote for your mate and 2 votes for what actually deserves recognition.
> 
> I'd bump the rep requirement to 30, or whatever is the same as needed to use the market place.
> 
> I think more seasoned builders/modders automatically learn to factor in the "Difficulty Level" when looking at the overall picture . . . . kind of like judging gymnastics or figure skating.
> 
> An overall result that looks like a 10, but had a difficulty level of 6 shouldn't trump an overall result of 8 or 9, that had a DL of 9 or 10.
> 
> For newer builders, the time it takes as they build their rep, they also are learning a lot from their interactions, so that by the time they have 20 or 30 reps, they see things thru much different eyes than before.
> 
> Darlene


I agree with this 100%.


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## TheCautiousOne

What in God Name Did I just witness the Diva Do? And how did I just come across this?







THat's so much work and Huge. . case.. and pumps... and liquid... with radiators.... I .... Oh My Goodness.

The Cautious One


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## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What in God Name Did I just witness the Diva Do? And how did I just come across this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THat's so much work and Huge. . case.. and pumps... and liquid... with radiators.... I .... Oh My Goodness.
> 
> The Cautious One


It's my labor of love, much like the restoration of a fuel injected, '63 split window Corvette with original equipment knock-off wheels would be.

Darlene


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## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's my labor of love, much like the restoration of a fuel injected, '63 split window Corvette with original equipment knock-off wheels would be.
> 
> Darlene


Oh Darlene







You speak the truth and nothing but it!

TCO


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## justaddi

So, decided this would be a very good thread for my 1st post. The work done here is INCONCEIVABLE. Big Fan. Greetings fom Berlin


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## FuBii

Having just spent the entire day inside, on what seems to have been Scotlands one day of summer, I can only marvel at the projects that you have created & are still in the process of finishing.

I enjoy the fact that you've had an inital plan & have tried to follow it as closely as possible working your way around issues as they cropped up. The imagination & determination to do something on this scale is pretty much unheard of. But then, if your going to do something, do it properly








I'm pretty new to the building game having built my first pc for university coursework since the ones in the faculty were absymal. Having read through all of your build logs it has kicked my brain into overdrive thinking of idea's & materials to use (first thing would be to sleeve all the cabling & make a PSU cover), unlike yourself living in the tropics, the average temperature during our summer months is 19 degrees C (62 fahrenheit) so any form of watercooling is serious overkill, although your mix n match twins log has me itching to delve into it.

Anyway, I would just like to take the time out to thank you for your hard work, dedication, guides on how to do certain things & mostly, for being an inspiration to us newbies.

Eagerly waiting to see the finished build, you should mount it on a plynth as there will be people who will want to worship it & its creator


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## kpforce1

My first time active on OCN for ages.... I came to check if your build was still in a holding pattern like mine has been







and I see something about a MFI '63 Split window Corvette restoration. Now THAT is what I'm talking about.


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