# OFFICIAL XSPC Raystorm Club



## macca_dj

*The OFFICIAL XSPC RAYSTORM CLUB*

This is a new High Flow CPU Watercooling block with less restriction than the previous RASA

I will update this thread when and where needed with bench marks and reviews,

*Also note that these are Separate packages*.

XSPC Links
Intel
http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/cpu-waterblocks/raystorm-cpu-waterblock-intel/

Amd
http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/cpu-waterblocks/raystorm-cpu-apu-waterblock-amd/

Special Edition Chrome for Intel
http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/cpu-waterblocks/raystorm-cpu-waterblock-intel-chrome/

*
Reviews
martinsliquidlab.org
*http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/09/26/i7-2600k-cpu-xspc-raystorm/
*
hardwaremax*
http://www.hardwaremax.net/wasserkuehlung/cpu-kuehler/336-test-xspc-raystorm.html?start=3

Thank you to saer for bringing it to our attention
*New King Of The Hill CPU water block*
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1123822-new-king-hill-cpu-water-block.html

*Maximus IV Gene-Z* back plate mod by Scorpion49
http://www.overclock.net/15495160-post115.html
*

Member forms and Sigs,
Thanks to Draven









MEMBERS LIST*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0Atqfb-4iZlzrdHJIZEpoMTBLdXR2RHFyNUNsSTVrNEE&single=true&gid=0&output=html&widget=true



*FORM*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



To join the club, just click *HERE *and you will be added automatically.



*SIG*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











*OFFICIAL XSPC Raystorm Club*


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## Heartl3ss

2 more days to be released...then i will be for sure an XSPC Raystorm owner


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## DEEBS808

Awesome.Looks like I need to get one.


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## Starbomba

I might go with one for my WCing project for Xmas. Dat blue light...

Will it bring both Intel and AMD mounts, or only one of each? I do not know if i'll upgrade to BD-E or Ivy when i replace my i3, and i want to be a bit future-proof.


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## macca_dj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starbomba;15168565*
> I might go with one for my WCing project for Xmas. Dat blue light...
> 
> Will it bring both Intel and AMD mounts, or only one of each? I do not know if i'll upgrade to BD-E or Ivy when i replace my i3, and i want to be a bit future-proof.


Unfortunately you will have to purchase either the Amd package or the Intel Package,

It would have been nicer of them to make it an all in one package to start with but its business and revenue counts.


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## Martinm210

FYI...think SVC has them in already..one of their reps posted this:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?275315-New-iXSPC-waterblock-The-RAYSTORM!&p=4963692&viewfull=1#post4963692

I have ordered a lot of stuff from SVC..good place too.


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## Not A Good Idea

just ordered mine


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## Mayor Winters

Im getting one, as soon as I have time to build everything and get the mod done in some factory.


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## nicodemus

i'm planning on getting one. i was originally going to get a Koolance 370 (?) but this looks great! the rasa, while awesome, was just a little too plain for my tastes.


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## Chunky_Chimp

Please be aware no club can be made official without a section staff member's say so. Once this club gets off the ground please contact Juggalo23451 for official status.


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## macca_dj

Just found out that they don't ship out in the UK untill the 10th October,

WatercoolingUK :-(


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## lowfat

Once they are available @ PPCS, I'll be ordering.


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## Not A Good Idea

according to tracking#, mine is here tomorrow. woo hoo!, on a sad note i lost a 580 to rma...







**


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## razr m3

AMD gets the ugly mounts







it was like that with their other block too (the one in the RS240 kit).


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## Kortwa

Just ordered mine from SVC. Will be replacing the blue LEDs with red and it should look great. Im just tired of the crappy mounting systems of EK.


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## macca_dj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *razr m3;15195869*
> AMD gets the ugly mounts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it was like that with their other block too (the one in the RS240 kit).


I would not say we as in Amd get the ugly block,
Just think of it as a little bit of room for stickers or some Art,


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## Not A Good Idea

Ok so i got mine in... 2 questions for you Martin if you're reading this (or anyone else that knows the answer may chime in)

1. What are all these backplates for? which is which?

2. How does the K2 Thermal paste they supply compare to Shin-Etsu (Shin-Etsu MicroSi X-23 7783D)?

3. how do the actual screws assemble. this didn't come with instructions (not to difficult to figure out, but i rather be safe then sorry...

thanks

ps quality looks great on this.


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## RussianJ

AMD mounts make me







why can't they produce a sexy looking mount as well for AMD?


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## Mayor Winters




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## PTB2

let me know if you figure out how to put it together. mine should be here monday.


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## macca_dj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Not A Good Idea;15202837*
> Ok so i got mine in... 2 questions for you Martin if you're reading this (or anyone else that knows the answer may chime in)
> 
> 1. What are all these backplates for? which is which?
> 
> 2. How does the K2 Thermal paste they supply compare to Shin-Etsu (Shin-Etsu MicroSi X-23 7783D)?
> 
> 3. how do the actual screws assemble. this didn't come with instructions (not to difficult to figure out, but i rather be safe then sorry...
> 
> thanks
> 
> ps quality looks great on this.


Congrats to you we hope to see some bench / comparisons between your previous cooler to,
I would presume the Water block fits the exact same way the RASA,

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WsONrAhuXeA&feature=related[/ame]


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## Not A Good Idea

i just went on their website.. order is :spring, metal washer, plastic washer


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## Not A Good Idea

ok well ive been running it for an hour so far... flow in my system seems to have increase by 25%. im estimating this because my flow meter spins ALOT faster now







and there is turbulence in my res where there wasnt before.

my water setup includes:
2 655 with ek tops
1 xspc dual bay res
3 xspc razor 580 blocks
1 xspc raystorm (replaces the swiftteck xt r2)
2 phobyia 360.2 rads
1 phobyia 240.2 rad
9 feet of 3/8ID tubing.

my idle temps are now 27 for my video cards, 35 for my cpu @5.1ghz
under load my temps are 43 for video cards.... and for my cpu... 57 (using the k2 stuff. im not sure if it has a cure time)

before they were 30 for VC, 40 for cpu
load was 47 vc and 70 for cpu with shin etsu and XT rev2


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## macca_dj

Good going on the flow gain,

Have you marked down your ambient room temp so we can see if in time the XSPC K2 needs a curing time ?

Edit
We are going to be loving some pics of it in your system or even a Video link to youtube ;-)


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## Raul-7

Available at Sidewinder Computers.


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## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Not A Good Idea;15202837*
> Ok so i got mine in... 2 questions for you Martin if you're reading this (or anyone else that knows the answer may chime in)
> 
> 1. What are all these backplates for? which is which?
> 
> 2. How does the K2 Thermal paste they supply compare to Shin-Etsu (Shin-Etsu MicroSi X-23 7783D)?
> 
> 3. how do the actual screws assemble. this didn't come with instructions (not to difficult to figure out, but i rather be safe then sorry...
> 
> thanks
> 
> ps quality looks great on this.


1) This should answer the back plate question in the upper left. Mine came with the Rasa instructions, but I'm guessing they are working on a Raystorm specific version. I only used the 1156 backplate for my i7-2600K processor (1156) socket motherboard.









2) I have not tested the K2, but based on it's consistency and looks, I would rate it pretty high or at least higher than any white pastes. I believe Vapor is going to test this TIM at some point which will be the more definitive test...he has TIM testing down to a fine science.

3) Yep, like this:


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## 16ReasonsWhy

it easy to pop those blue LED off and slap on some red ones?


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## Nano5656

Ordered mine







I can't decide if I should switch from my 7/16 tubing and 1/2 barbs to 1/2 tubing and 1/2 id xspc black chrome compression fittings as well, ahhhh


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## yanks8981

got mine in the mail this week, will be setting it up next week!


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## PTB2

mine is here need to get 2 gtx 580's next then the watercooling begins.
its going to sit in the box for a bit till then.


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## DEEBS808

Ordering one next week.Can't wait.


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## Kortwa

Just got mine in today. Good looking block.


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## Not A Good Idea

just thought id share some pictures. i think i might keep it blue... it doesnt look that bad amongst the red...

edit lol sorry upside down


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## Nano5656

Not a good Idea, I think it looks cool. Remind me of like a optimus prime or spiderman thing. If you make it red it will just blend and dissapear haha


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## erayser

Didn't see these pictures posted... so I thought I would post for color options.

(courtesy of Game Over @ overclock3d)


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## discipline

getting this for my christmas loop 100% after those pics HOLY BALLS


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## Xraven771

Got mine on pre-order







will join the club when it comes


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## Xraven771

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macca_dj;15195348*
> Just found out that they don't ship out in the UK untill the 10th October,
> 
> WatercoolingUK :-(


same i pre-orderd but id doesn't show up im "my orders" section


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## andygoyap

Ordered this @ Sidewinders! can't wait.


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## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *discipline;15243952*
> HOLY BALLS


My thoughts exactly after seeing the pricing, performance, and dual-color setup! Holy smokes I might have to pick this up to replace my Rasa when I do my December Disassembly. WHat colors would go well with an all black-grey-green setup seen through a solar grey tinted window?

$65! I was expecting closer to $100.


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## discipline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt;15244019*
> My thoughts exactly after seeing the pricing, performance, and dual-color setup! Holy smokes I might have to pick this up to replace my Rasa when I do my December Disassembly. WHat colors would go well with an all black-grey-green setup seen through a solar grey tinted window?
> 
> $65! I was expecting closer to $100.


Serious! It looks like all custom loops will have this block for awhile. It even fits lga2011. . . For your setup you can't get black or grey LEDs. So by process of elimination. . .get them greens mang!


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## Nano5656

Yeah this is gonna be the new block to have haha. Im okay with it though.


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## PTB2

so here is what im wondering. i have the asus makimus iv extreme z mobo. you know how the eye turns on and off i wonder if i can connect the leds fro theblock to the mobo connection for the rog eye?


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## uncholowapo

This block is going to be mine







The LED's would be a great HDD activity indicator.


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## RussianJ

May just be my next block, only sad about the AMD mounts. Wonder if you can get a custom mount made that looks half way decent?


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## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianJ;15253954*
> May just be my next block, only sad about the AMD mounts. Wonder if you can get a custom mount made that looks half way decent?


It doesn't look that bad...


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## macca_dj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianJ;15253954*
> May just be my next block, only sad about the AMD mounts. Wonder if you can get a custom mount made that looks half way decent?


The only problem with having a custom mount made is the residual strength and retention pressures,

But yes you could probably make one as long as you account for all of these attributes,

I personally do not mind the look of it myself,

Mine will be here tomorrow so we will see,


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## somebadlemonade

yea that's not that bad


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## Cuar

God do I want this! Going to have to get rid of my EK.


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## csm725

Where did he get the orange/pink/purple 3mm LEDs?


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## uncholowapo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725;15258744*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where did he get the orange/pink/purple 3mm LEDs?


Probably from Radio Shack or something.


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## Worple

you can get 3mm leds HERE


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## csm725

I see this - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5539/ele-234/3mm_Orange_LED.html
How do I connect it to the Molex?


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## Worple

Try this LINK


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## Greenback

if you live in uk you can get these


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## macca_dj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725;15258744*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where did he get the orange/pink/purple 3mm LEDs?


Those shots have been edited in Photoshop,

It was a good idea so people can see what the block looks like with different coloured LED's, ;-)


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## JFuss

For anyone interested , I'd thought I would mention it's available in Australia now
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=18563

Also pretty sure my disclaimer is in effect, the durnk part that is


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## jmcu

Mine is on it's way.... Can't wait.. Looks badass


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## Darksoul844

Does anyone know how much better temps this is from the other xspc block?


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## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darksoul844;15265897*
> Does anyone know how much better temps this is from the other xspc block?


review here
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/09/26/i7-2600k-cpu-xspc-raystorm/6/


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## erayser

Found another review on a German website.
http://www.hardwaremax.net/wasserkuehlung/cpu-kuehler/336-test-xspc-raystorm.html

I went ahead and translated it so you don't have to click on the "English" flag for translation on each page.









*Test: XSPC RAYSTORM*

Now, some months have passed since our last test cooler and now it continues with a new High-End coolers.The name refers to the first radiator XSPC Raystorm that fits on socket 2011 motherboards already raises our test course. As the cooler has beaten us, and what gimmicks the cooler from England still so provides, you can read on the following pages.

*DETAILS*

The Raystorm comes in an anthracite-colored box at the customer. In this he is and all the accessories well protected and surrounded by foam.To make aware of the contents of the box is still the name of the product.

*Technical Details:*

Cover material: copper / acetal
Bracket material: Steel
Dimensions:
Copper base: 56x56x3mm
LED hole size: 4 x 3mm
Thread Size: 1/4Zoll
Supported Sockets: 775, 1156, 1155, 1366 and 2011

*Delivery:*

Cooler + bracket
Backplate for Socket 775, 1155/1156 and 1366
Double blue LED
Mounting hardware
Thermal Compound
Allen key
English, illustrated assembly instructions

The build quality of the XSPC Raystorm can be described as very good. Consisting of several parts cooler relies primarily on acetal and acrylic, with the base plate, a set course on copper. The mount for the cooling block consists of brushed aluminum and acrylic. The advantage of the matter lies in the fact that you can rotate the cooling block, regardless of the holder about its own axis.Thus it is the case in much more flexible than conventional coolers. Purely from a performance point of course it brings no benefit.



We particularly like the mounting system also, which from XSPC Rasa was unchanged. This Sockelkit is sometimes the best that the market has to offer. The assembly is thus within a few minutes and the look is very appealing. XSPC relies on an additional wing nut, which you can tighten the thumbscrews tighten after again, and optimize the contact pressure.

]
]

Of course we have also opened the cooler. Behind a Stainless steel nozzle plate and the heat sink conceals itself. The bottom plate was well made and shows no gross defects. Besides, we want to mention that the holder has space for 4x 3mm leds. Are supplied with 2 x 3mm blue gesleevet fine black. So also all the accessories plays little piece and leaves no further requests.

]

When installed, the Raystorm particularly like.The enclosed LEDs we used to fill the small matter of course for a photo shoot.

*How we'll be testing*

Should be to ensure the tests are actually currently we are also responsible for a proper test basis.Following the beginning of January the new Intel Sandy Bridge processors on the market, it was of course nearly equal to the latest generation Intel to set. Our eyes are much while on the i7-2600k machining to our photo or video is not too much time to lose. That, we were lucky to get a really bad CPU. After all, we need stable for 4.7 GHz 1475 volts. A circumstance which we granted at the cooler temperatures kinky tests and thus allows fundamental conclusions.

*Technical details: Hardware*

Motherboard: ASUS Maximus Extreme IV
Processor i7-2600K overclocked to 4.5 GHz with heat exchanger tests and 4.7 GHz with cooler tests
Graphics card: AMD HD 6950 @ 6970
Sound Card: XFI-Forte 7.1 Auzenten
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 1600 8/8/8/27
Hard Drive: Plextor
PSU: Xigmatek 1000Watt Go Green Series
Housing: XSPC H1 "Maexis Castle"
Cabling: BitFenix Alchemy Red or Blue

*Technical details: Water Cooling*

Pump: Laing DDC-1T + with Alphacool top tank
Flow Meter: Aqua Computer DFM RF
Tubing: 13/10 Masterkleer transparent
Glands: EKWaterBlocks and Alphacool
Radiator: 1 x Alpha NexXxos UT60 360 radiator (front) 3 x Phobya G-12 Silent Waterproof
Radiator: 1 x 4 black Watercool HTF Lt (left side) 3 x 14 Black Phobya nano-G
Case Fans: 6 x Phobya G-Silent (and rear cover)
Monitoring: Alphacool Heatmaster I
Temperature sensors: 3 x Phobya G1 / 4
Water: EKWB Ek-Ekoolant red or blue (long-term test)

Of course we want to use the optical advantages of a water cooling system and set the scene just in hardware. In the tests we give to all natural lighting.

In the coolers, the processor is overclocked to 4.7 Ghz with a load voltage of 1,475 volts. Here we reach with the slow speeds at high-end coolers a load temperature of about 81 degrees per core. A value of the home for many of the good is probably too much.

*Circuit:*

Laing DDC-1T +
Temperature sensor
Watercool HTF4 Black LT
EKWB6970 VGA cooler
CPU cooler (XSPC-Rasa, EKWB Supreme HF, Watercool HK 3.0, etc.)
Temperature sensor
Alpha NexXxos UT 60
Temperature sensor
Alphacool Laing Conditions tank top
Software:
Prime 95 is fixed to 12k
Open Hardware Monitor
Alphacool Heatmaster software
In this test we stress the processor for an hour with a fixed prime value.The fix of the value is so important because otherwise you might Schwankugen occur with such a test can not use. Therefore, because this value is 12k immense temperatures in very short time.
The case fans are working in this test with 650 turns, the two heat exchangers are lined with 550 turns. These values are to be designated as a quiet and quite correspond to what users expect from a European water cooling. Namely, a potent cooling the enormous even under load is not loud.
Overall, this sequence for each cow is three times repeated. Besides, the distribution of thermal paste checked and rotated the cooler

Important: was broken after the ASROCK P67 Extreme 6 Unfortunately, we had to organize a new mainboard. Also the water was changed. To ensure usable tests continue, we have measured the temperature and adjusted to the current test status. The same applies also to the radiators.

*Test Results:*










After the XSPC Rasa was a very good cooler already, of course we were curious how well the proposed Raystorm. As you can see, the Raystorm is at the head of our flow charts and is currently probably the measure of things.










But also, on the pure cooling performance, the needs of the XSPC Raystorm not hide from its competitors. Again, he shows great and sits down, if only just to our cooler charts. We have to be honest with much expected not only to the top spot. Very interesting were the results in the form of a solid metal cooler.But maybe we're lucky, and the Engänder surprise us an extensive range of accessories.

*Conclusion:*

As always, we begin with the negative aspects of our test subjects.

*Negative aspects:*

No solid metal heat sink

*Positive aspects:*

High flow
High performance
Modding Options
Price

XSPC has Raystorm with a very good cooler portfolio. He is not only from a performance point to settle near the top, but also knows very well visually pleasing. The idea with the illuminated part will appeal particularly good modders. But bargain hunters should keep an eye on the Raystorm. In sum considered can be said that nowhere is more cooler for 60 € gets. The services in general and the low price for the service speak for itself. After finding the XSPC Raystorm in our test chart at the front, he also earned the award Hardwaremax reference. The power in connection with the prize are interested in purchasing their equal and justify this without the contradictions.

A big thank you goes to England in this case to XSPC andAquatuning.


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## Chunky_Chimp

I think this is reason enough for Watercool to finally make a new Heatkiller...


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## Not A Good Idea

im still curious about the XSPC K2... so far its been giving me GREAT numbers!


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## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser;15285708*
> Found another review..


Thanks for sharing, good to know my numbers seem pretty well in line with theirs.


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## Sophath

Anywhere where i can order those in Canada or north america?
I feel like trying my hands at watercooling now. That is after i replace this stupid mobo.


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## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sophath;15287583*
> Anywhere where i can order those in Canada or north america?
> I feel like trying my hands at watercooling now. That is after i replace this stupid mobo.


http://dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=102_105&products_id=1751


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## dman1320

Just finished putting my raystorm in gonna leak test it over night then well see what this new beast can do


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## wermad

Sold my Rasa and ordered Raystorm


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## uncholowapo

Just ordered mine! Jab-Tech had it the cheapest being $65 with change after shipping was included


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## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uncholowapo;15303729*
> Just ordered mine! Jab-Tech had it the cheapest being $65 with change after shipping was included


Used the 5% off code "facebook"?


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## uncholowapo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;15303731*
> Used the 5% off code "facebook"?


I was just thinking of that







It was my first purchase with Jab-Tech so I didn't really know where to look. I went back and saw that it was under the cart list if you scroll down...









Do you think if I contact them, they'll apply it?


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## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *uncholowapo*


I was just thinking of that







It was my first purchase with Jab-Tech so I didn't really know where to look. I went back and saw that it was under the cart list if you scroll down...









Do you think if I contact them, they'll apply it?


Its like $2.50-$3.00 and it might delay your shipment. But no harm in asking


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## uncholowapo

Its the beginning of the weekend so I would have to wait until Monday. I don't mind waiting an extra day since the shipping is basically 5 bucks.


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## Greenback

well got my pressy


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## uncholowapo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Its like $2.50-$3.00 and it might delay your shipment. But no harm in asking










They honored it!!! Thanks to them, total was $62 and some change. Jab-Tech is awesome!


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## Not A Good Idea

its 59.99 @ Performance-PCS. FYI


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## PTB2

do we have enough to make this an "official" club yet?


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## Schmuckley

i wanna see some results! (i'm sure they're awesome)


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## erayser

I got mine yesterday. I got mine for $59.99 at performance-pcs, but $12.20 for shipping.







I needed a couple 1" black D-Plug's anyway since they had them in stock so at least I got a Raystorm along with it.

To make it official...


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## uncholowapo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Not A Good Idea;15305995*
> its 59.99 @ Performance-PCS. FYI


What the guy said below me








Quote:


> $12.20 for shipping


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## Not A Good Idea

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uncholowapo;15306978*
> What the guy said below me


the more stuff you order, the better


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## macca_dj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTB2;15306008*
> do we have enough to make this an "official" club yet?


No we will have to wait a bit before that happens but it would be nice,









I am going to try and get a Google members name list up soon once I get the time to play around as I have been rather busy of late,









I have received mine but have not had the chance to do anything with it,

Congrats to those that have received there's already and I hope you are seeing some differences









_If any one has the time to make a Members sheet then let me know Please and we could bounce some Idea's around........_


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## Da1Nonly

Just ordered mine from xodide. PLus they have some kind of discount today!! Cant wait to get it and try it out.


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## Nano5656

Installing mine today

I think a lot of pictures fail to capture the brilliant aluminum brush metal finish it has


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## macca_dj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nano5656;15344294*
> Installing mine today
> 
> I think a lot of pictures fail to capture the brilliant aluminum brush metal finish it has


Yes I would agree with you on that point,
The build quality is superb as well feels a lot tougher than it looks,


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## moonslug

Would the Raystorm be a good block to get for my Bloomfield chip? (And furthermore, would it be a worthwhile upgrade from the stock block that comes with the Rasa 750 RX240, which I plan on buying?







)


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## uncholowapo

Post office is going to bring mine tomorrow! I'm so excited


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## Mumbles37

I got mine fresh from the UK the other day. Temps dropped a couple degrees from the rasa 750 I got with my kit a while back. Nothing compares to its beauty!


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## hydropwnics

might have to scoop one down the road for my Rasa Kit, will have to replace the LEDs with Red ones to match my haf-x with red led fans


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## wermad

Mine arrives tomorrow


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## odditory

which fittings are you guys going with to match the raystorm? I was looking for something matte-black.


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## Not A Good Idea

xspc black chrome low profile compression fittings


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## uncholowapo

Got mine today. Its so shiny and the brush aluminum finish is nice. Gona switch out the blue LED for a white one


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## wermad

TFC 1/2x3/4 fittings fit without having to pull them a bit like the Rasa.


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## Twinkadink

I just wish the Raystorm would have a similiar mounting system to the EK easy mount, it just seems more consistent ya know? You don't really have to worry about putting it on too much to the left or right of it. The easy mount also makes it easier to install complex thermal appliances like Indigo Xtreme and such. Just saying!


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## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Twinkadink*


I just wish the Raystorm would have a similiar mounting system to the EK easy mount, it just seems more consistent ya know? You don't really have to worry about putting it on too much to the left or right of it. The easy mount also makes it easier to install complex thermal appliances like Indigo Xtreme and such. Just saying!


I had the Supreme hf rev.1 and the mounting setup was more complex and took longer. But I agree w/ you, the setup adjustments are much easier on the EK than the XSPC.


----------



## Greenback

I'm hoping this goes a bit easier then the rasa as I had to push down on it to get the screws into the backplate, with the acrylic arms on these cann't say I'd want to do that


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greenback*


I'm hoping this goes a bit easier then the rasa as I had to push down on it to get the screws into the backplate, with the acrylic arms on these cann't say I'd want to do that


It is. I was worried about the same thing since the Rasa was a pita to get a few screws going. It looks like XSPC did longer screws this time with the Raystorm as it went on without any complications







.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


It is. I was worried about the same thing since the Rasa was a pita to get a few screws going. It looks like XSPC did longer screws this time with the Raystorm as it went on without any complications







.


thats good to hear.
I will hopefully have the screws I need for my rasa uni gpu as my asus gfx needs it's backplate I needed M2x30 instead of the ones that come with it, and they are a pain to get, why everyone cann't use M4's it would make life easy

p.s if it goes wrong and I end up on my old amd rig Il'l blame you as it as your build and a few videos from oc3d that made me think of going water


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *greenback*


thats good to hear.
I will hopefully have the screws i need for my rasa uni gpu as my asus gfx needs it's backplate i needed m2x30 instead of the ones that come with it, and they are a pain to get, why everyone cann't use m4's it would make life easy

p.s if it goes wrong and i end up on my old amd rig il'l blame you as it as your build and a few videos from oc3d that made me think of going water


----------



## Da1Nonly

Just got a call from the wife, she said I received some box from xoxide.com! I forced her to open it, inside was my raystorm!!! at work now, will post some pictures when I get home, and then some results between the current cpu block and the new one. Working for the next 5 hours will be insanely difficult.


----------



## jmcu

Here are my results with this sweet block, I missed this thread or I would of put it here..

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1143694-raystorm-results.html


----------



## odditory

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Da1Nonly;15383125*
> Just got a call from the wife, she said I received some box from xoxide.com! I forced her to open it, inside was my raystorm!!!


I know how this convo went because I've had it before:

You: "Can you open the box and tell me whats in there.."
Her: "Okay. Yeah, it's like, a thingie..."

God love em.


----------



## somebadlemonade

i wonder if you can do a similar gpu mod like you can do with the ek supreme hf with this block. . .


----------



## MURDoctrine

Haha all these new awesome parts coming out argh. If I weren't in the market for a new pump and res I would be on one of these already. Looks nice all. MOAR PICS!


----------



## xquisit

should I get the Rasa 750 RX360 kit or go custom with the raystorm and get a better pump + tubing then what comes with the kit?

in one month, i plan on going with a sandy bridge processor and i will have my SLI 470s air cooled.

in the future, i plan to go with a 3.0 GPU and possibly watercool it.


----------



## Nynn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Da1Nonly;15383125*
> Just got a call from the wife, she said I received some box from xoxide.com! I forced her to open it, inside was my raystorm!!! at work now, will post some pictures when I get home, and then some results between the current cpu block and the new one. Working for the next 5 hours will be insanely difficult.


"Yeah its this big heavy thing with 2 holes".

*silence.....* Oh my god wrong package

LOL


----------



## Greenback

just read this on another forum from xspc

XSPC - Paul
We might do a high end kit with the RayStorm + EX, but it wouldn't replace the Rasa kits.


----------



## mironccr345

Got my block last week and installed it Sunday!


----------



## grimshot

Just got my Raystorm in from xoxide. Waiting on a few more items from PPC and FrozenCpu to finish up on the LC parts. Looks great and does not feel cheap at all. Too bad they did not include an installation sheet or manual but you can find one online. If you guys planning on getting it from xoxide remember to sign up on the newsletter or forum for promo codes. 5 off on over 50 is a nice deal.


----------



## Levesque

Just received mine today. But it will be for my upcoming LGA2011 X79 build.


----------



## uncholowapo

Hey, does XSPC have a service for sending out a different mount kit? I bought the AMD version in anticipation for Bulldozer but we all know what happened there... and I am switching to intel in the coming 2 weeks. Jab-tech doesn't do exchanges and I really don't want to wait 3 weeks to return it and get a refund. Any help would be nice


----------



## Greenback

you can contact them here and ask nothing to lose


----------



## kieran13

stupid question but does the XSPC raystorm have any packing inside it when they ship it to you you have to pull it apart to take it out


----------



## Scorpion49

*Just a friendly heads up*:

Raystorm backplate for 1155 has fitment issues in Maximus IV Gene-Z, there are some small components it overlaps and could damage if tightened down like that. You could shim it with washers or trim it like I did.










I trimmed it with my dremel to makeit fit properly like so:









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kieran13;15493278*
> stupid question but does the XSPC raystorm have any packing inside it when they ship it to you you have to pull it apart to take it out


Its packaged nicely in a small box, padded with foam and wrapped in plastic to prevent scratches.


----------



## macca_dj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49;15495160*
> *Just a friendly heads up*:
> 
> Raystorm backplate for 1155 has fitment issues in Maximus IV Gene-Z, there are some small components it overlaps and could damage if tightened down like that. You could shim it with washers or trim it like I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I trimmed it with my dremel to makeit fit properly like so:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its packaged nicely in a small box, padded with foam and wrapped in plastic to prevent scratches.


Thank you for the heads up for members who might face this problem









Also we have been granted permission to make this the
*OFFICIAL XSPC RAYSTORM CLUB*
Thank you to *Juggalo23451*


----------



## uncholowapo

Well, just got word back from XSPC that they won't send me the Intel backplate because they plan to sell it as a kit "sometime in november."







What I don't get though is that he said there is an AMD backplate kit already out so I'm wondering why it would take so long to put the intel one out


----------



## macca_dj

That's not a very good out come uncholowapo considering all you need is the back plate and Intel facia for your water block :-(


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uncholowapo;15519094*
> What I don't get though is that he said there is an AMD backplate kit already out so I'm wondering why it would take so long to put the intel one out


Maybe the demand for Intel got higher because of those who were planning to do a bulldozer build jumped ship.

As for the Intel back plate mod... I've seen a maximus iv extreme-z owner with the raystorm block installed without doing the modification. I PM'd him... and he said he didn't have to do a mod. The pic above looks indentical to the extreme-z board.


----------



## dewthedew

the LEDs are blue? has anyone changed the color of the LEDs?


----------



## Pgnee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dewthedew;15520704*
> the LEDs are blue? has anyone changed the color of the LEDs?


It looks relatively easy as long as you can resleeve them yourself. Its simply an LED, some solder and hot glue I imagine. I'll let ya know tomorrow when my Raystorm gets delivered with my WC system tomorrow!


----------



## Not A Good Idea

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dewthedew*


the LEDs are blue? has anyone changed the color of the LEDs?


just buy them pre-made... $3-4 dollars max @ PCS or other spots. ive just ordered amber and red. not worth the time and effort to make em imho.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pgnee*


It looks relatively easy as long as you can resleeve them yourself. Its simply an LED, some solder and hot glue I imagine. I'll let ya know tomorrow when my Raystorm gets delivered with my WC system tomorrow!



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Not A Good Idea*


just buy them pre-made... $3-4 dollars max @ PCS or other spots. ive just ordered amber and red. not worth the time and effort to make em imho.


They are not attached to the block unless you do it yourself, any 3mm LED should work if you would like to change to color.


----------



## thrgk

if i switch to the raystorm, how much of a temp increase will i see coming from a rasa xpsc block that came with the rasa rs 360 kit?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrgk*


if i switch to the raystorm, how much of a temp increase will i see coming from a rasa xpsc block that came with the rasa rs 360 kit?


The raystorm performs better and has lower restriction than the rasa, so I doubt you will see a temp increase...


----------



## thrgk

oh sorry, meant decrease, how much of a decrease will i see


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrgk*


oh sorry, meant decrease, how much of a decrease will i see


Haha I was wondering, it seems like maybe 2-3*C or so? Looking at reviews of them they're pretty close. If that much is important to you maybe it would be a good buy at only $60-ish.


----------



## thrgk

eh not really, however it seems everything is 2-3c difference, so if i change 3 things lol, its 10c difference almost. Do we know if it is the best cpu block? or is apooge hd better?


----------



## Greenback

I actually got 5c lower temps with the raystorm from the rasa though lots of things can account for that better seating different tim less air in rads and such


----------



## hydropwnics

frozenCPU sells a little 4pin cable with an attachment for LEDs they sell on their site, and for a small fee they will sleeve it any color you want and swap connector as well. then you simply plug the LED into the end of it. I did this to change the LED color to RED for my RASA kit because I didnt have a soldering iron or anything to swap the one on the cable that came with the kit.


----------



## mrmax

My RayStorm waterblock with red throbbing LEDs.


----------



## Los Hog

Looks great







And looks like ET's chest "ET phone home"


----------



## Scorpion49

Anybody find out how to get the X79 kit for the raystorm? I'd like to use mine again since I'm switching over to and X79 build from 1155.


----------



## critical46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Anybody find out how to get the X79 kit for the raystorm? I'd like to use mine again since I'm switching over to and X79 build from 1155.


it came with multiple backplates so unless you threw them out you're good to go x79


----------



## SandShark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrmax*
> 
> My RayStorm waterblock with red throbbing LEDs.


Nice! How do you make it "throbbing" like that?


----------



## kot0005

Hook me Up plox! hers my Build. 1st timer so ps bear wit me.


----------



## critical46

Looks good man. What kind of tubing did you use?


----------



## mrmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SandShark*
> 
> Nice! How do you make it "throbbing" like that?


I made an electronic circuit based on LM358 dual op-amp IC to generate throbbing effect. There are various schematics on the web.


----------



## kot0005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *critical46*
> 
> Looks good man. What kind of tubing did you use?


XSPC 1/2 ID ; 3/4 OD Clear/UV blue tubing.


----------



## aar0nsky

woot newly xspc raystorm owner. its currently in leak testing phase with the rest of my loop. hopefully tomorrow i will have some pics of everything together.
im going with green led's

check out my buildlog for some more awesomeness.


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *critical46*
> 
> it came with multiple backplates so unless you threw them out you're good to go x79


The one I got didnt come with the lga 2011 fix kit with the extra fittings.


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantomau*
> 
> The one I got didnt come with the lga 2011 fix kit with the extra fittings.


you mean these XSPC Intel 2011 Screw Kit for XSPC Raystorm , sorry uk site it's all I know


----------



## OutlawNeedsHelp

I would assume so, but does this block work on an ASUS P8P67 Deluxe?


----------



## offshell

Did anyone else have to struggle a bit with the LGA2011 m4 mounting kit? It went down and fit, but it was a bit more forced than I had expected it.


----------



## EAnushan

Try unscrewing the pressure screw all the way up to the main screw before mounting. When I first got my raystorm, the pressure screw was about halfway down the entire pin. I couldn't mount it until I figured out that I had to unscrew the pressure screw all the way up first.


----------



## eduardmc

Can i join the raystorm club.

I turned my raystom upside down to make my loop look better. It did not affect the temp, i needed the in-slot to be on the left side instead of the right.


----------



## offshell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EAnushan*
> 
> Try unscrewing the pressure screw all the way up to the main screw before mounting. When I first got my raystorm, the pressure screw was about halfway down the entire pin. I couldn't mount it until I figured out that I had to unscrew the pressure screw all the way up first.


Unless I did something wrong, the LGA2011 m4 mounts install the rods first. Then you just slide the Raystorm over the 4 rods before adding the washers, spring and finally the pressure screw.


----------



## ClassicVN

Where can I purchase the LGA 1155/ 1156 backplate for this cpu waterblock?

I RMA my motherboard and forgot to remove the backplate....dumb of me.

thanks,


----------



## Greenback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawNeedsHelp*
> 
> I would assume so, but does this block work on an ASUS P8P67 Deluxe?


yes I have it mine









@classicvn contact xspc


----------



## mrmax

All copper version of XSPC RayStorm waterblock is coming soon...











Teaser picture taken from XSPC website.


----------



## aar0nsky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrmax*
> 
> All copper version of XSPC RayStorm waterblock is coming soon...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Teaser picture taken from XSPC website.


lame


----------



## error-id10t

Does anyone have temp results from this block? I put this into my system and I'm not really happy with the temps I'm seeing. I was expecting/hoping <60 degrees on a 2600k @ 4.71Ghz (46x102.5) running ~1.43v but I'm seeing:

Core0 - 56
Core1 - 64
Core2 - 63
Core3 - 60

The loop works just fine as my 580CUII maxes out at 46 degrees @ 1000Mhz on core (1.175v). The GPU is after the CPU.

Also tried re-pasting (this time using pea method - first time it was sort of mentally challenged smiley face) but if anything that made it worse by a degree or two.


----------



## dougshell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> Does anyone have temp results from this block? I put this into my system and I'm not really happy with the temps I'm seeing. I was expecting/hoping <60 degrees on a 2600k @ 4.71Ghz (46x102.5) running ~1.43v but I'm seeing:
> Core0 - 56
> Core1 - 64
> Core2 - 63
> Core3 - 60
> The loop works just fine as my 580CUII maxes out at 46 degrees @ 1000Mhz on core (1.175v). The GPU is after the CPU.
> Also tried re-pasting (this time using pea method - first time it was sort of mentally challenged smiley face) but if anything that made it worse by a degree or two.


(56+64+63+60)/4 = 60.75

Purely elementary my dear Watson. Your temps are fine. Unless someone disagrees


----------



## csm725

A bit high no?


----------



## error-id10t

After 3rd re-pasting (each has made it little worse) I'm getting:

Core0 = 58
Core1 = 66
Core2 = 65
Core3 = 62

= 62.75 degrees.

Remove Ambient and we get to: 39.75 delta. That is 11 degrees cooler compared to the previous setup using Silver Arrow but for some reason I expected better. Unrealisitic or should I keep working on this? I will repaste considering I've just made it worse but beyond that, good .. acceptable .. almost a fail?

20mins of small FFTs on latest Prime with 1.43vcore (HT on obviously using offset). If possible let me know what you guys get.


----------



## mrmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrmax*
> 
> All copper version of XSPC RayStorm waterblock is coming soon...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Teaser picture taken from XSPC website.


More details and pictures are available on XSPC website: http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/cpu-waterblocks/raystorm-cpu-waterblock-intel-copper/

Besides all copper body, hold down bracket is made of thick aluminium instead of acrylic as in the original RayStorm.


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrmax*
> 
> More details and pictures are available on XSPC website: http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/cpu-waterblocks/raystorm-cpu-waterblock-intel-copper/
> Besides all copper body, hold down bracket is made of thick aluminium instead of acrylic as in the original RayStorm.


I didn't even the use the LED, so it would been nice to have the aluminum hold down bracket instead.


----------



## Martinm210

Nice!

I've always liked the all metal blocks...just something about the quality feel you get holding all that mass.









Of coarse you do loose the LED feature, but I'd take the metal over the LED as my own personal preference.

Who knows, it may help improve performance a touch adding some structural strength to the block assembly.


----------



## erayser

I would by the aluminum hold down bracket separate. Nothing against the acrylic, but I would like the added strength and support.


----------



## dougshell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Nice!
> I've always liked the all metal blocks...just something about the quality feel you get holding all that mass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of coarse you do loose the LED feature, but I'd take the metal over the LED as my own personal preference.
> Who knows, it may help improve performance a touch adding some structural strength to the block assembly.


Maybe you can give us some of your amazing scientific results comparing the two!


----------



## Grumby21

i need to be put in the club my raystorm just got here today i will be uploading pictures in my build it won't be installed till i get my pt nuke so it will be either saturday or mondya it will be here


----------



## IXcrispyXI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grumby21*
> 
> i need to be put in the club my raystorm just got here today i will be uploading pictures in my build it won't be installed till i get my pt nuke so it will be either saturday or mondya it will be here


me too










Uploaded with ImageShack.us









By ixcrispyxi at 2011-12-29


----------



## Grumby21

the picture of mine is under watercooling the build log is silent night


----------



## aar0nsky

I am sitting at about 37-39 average between cores at idle with this water block with my Q9550 @ 4.02GHz. Its a nice block(my first) from what I have seen from it so far.


----------



## Grumby21

im sitting at 4.2ghz with my 1090t with a idle of between 22 to 23c and a load of 38c


----------



## dougshell

man those AMD chips sure do run cool. I am at about 62 load on a 4.0ghz core i5 750. I think i have some mounting issues as 3 mounts ago i was about 2c cooler with the same ambient temps.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougshell*
> 
> man those AMD chips sure do run cool. I am at about 62 load on a 4.0ghz core i5 750. I think i have some mounting issues as 3 mounts ago i was about 2c cooler with the same ambient temps.


2c is nothing. Amd chips run cooler but can also not handle much heat. Intel chips can take a beating.


----------



## scubadiver59

Forget the paste...

http://indigo-xtreme.com/

Expensive? Yes, but it leaves out the room of error when using pastes, and pastes, and pastes. And most reviews have proven that it is a superior heat transfer medium that negates the error in pasting methods or clamping issues--you clamp it down tight, there's almost no way not to get good contact.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> After 3rd re-pasting (each has made it little worse) I'm getting:
> Core0 = 58
> Core1 = 66
> Core2 = 65
> Core3 = 62
> = 62.75 degrees.
> Remove Ambient and we get to: 39.75 delta. That is 11 degrees cooler compared to the previous setup using Silver Arrow but for some reason I expected better. Unrealisitic or should I keep working on this? I will repaste considering I've just made it worse but beyond that, good .. acceptable .. almost a fail?
> 20mins of small FFTs on latest Prime with 1.43vcore (HT on obviously using offset). If possible let me know what you guys get.


----------



## dougshell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scubadiver59*
> 
> Forget the paste...
> http://indigo-xtreme.com/
> Expensive? Yes, but it leaves out the room of error when using pastes, and pastes, and pastes. And most reviews have proven that it is a superior heat transfer medium that negates the error in pasting methods or clamping issues--you clamp it down tight, there's almost no way not to get good contact.


Have you ever actually used the product you are so quick to recommend. People all over teh net have had issues with this product, from not being able to do the burn in, (especially with water blocks) also even after lapping the block sometimes there was leftover indigo ex on the copper waterblock. That is not worth even 5c to me


----------



## OutlawNeedsHelp

In, pics:
Box (Paper says Outlaw) 

In system (about to start leak testing)


----------



## baren

Raystorm build here


----------



## scubadiver59

Some people do appear to have issues, but that is the way things go when modifying cases, electrical connections, water cooling, etc...it's trial and error.

To each his own, i guess...

While Indigo Xtreme performs very well compared to other thermal compounds, it doesn't work on *all* heatsinks--it must be rock tight and shouldn't be wedged around or else the effectiveness of the Indigo Xtreme degrades.

Skinnee Labs' tests reiterate this:
http://skinneelabs.com/2011-mx2-ix-ssg/3/

There is also a posting at Enerdyne's Indigo Extreme website stating some incompatibilities:
http://www.indigo-xtreme.com/docs/ixheatsinkcompatibilityapplicationnote.pdf

Quite often most people don't allow the "reflow" to take place, i.e. not enough time allowed for the reflow, and the TIM never flows out properly. All Intel Core i7 CPUs have built-in protection (Adaptive Thermal Monitor) that throttles down power to keep the CPU at a safe operating temperature, but I don't know if people panic and shut it down before that happens or what.

And not to gainsay your opinion, but for every sob story there are success stories of using Indigo Extreme...a tit for tat; and for me, $25 is a 12-pack of brew and i buy one of those a week, so the cost is insignificant.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougshell*
> 
> Have you ever actually used the product you are so quick to recommend. People all over teh net have had issues with this product, from not being able to do the burn in, (especially with water blocks) also even after lapping the block sometimes there was leftover indigo ex on the copper waterblock. That is not worth even 5c to me


----------



## Balsagna

Mine should be here in a couple of days


----------



## Grumby21

for my overclock i have the phobya hegrease and now my cpu is 4.3ghz load is 34c with idle between 20 to 23 idk how far to tighten down the block.


----------



## dougshell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grumby21*
> 
> for my overclock i have the phobya hegrease and now my cpu is 4.3ghz load is 34c with idle between 20 to 23 idk how far to tighten down the block.


Martin did 6 mounts and completely logged the entire process. His first mount was best and he determined that unless you have some crazy concave IHS its best to leave the extra suspension springs loose and just use the thumb bolt Screw until the thumb bolt stops


----------



## dougshell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baren*
> 
> Raystorm build here


Ok are you guys doing somethign with your digital cameras...Because my led light does nto defuse throughout the acrylic like in this picture. Is this how your block looks to the naked eye (with the blue light filling the entire acrylic border)


----------



## Balsagna

Take a pic and show us... we'll tell you


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougshell*
> 
> Ok are you guys doing somethign with your digital cameras...Because my led light does nto defuse throughout the acrylic like in this picture. Is this how your block looks to the naked eye (with the blue light filling the entire acrylic border)


It looks like he has 2 led's in his block. This might be why he has better light spread. I'm just assuming you are using one here.


----------



## dougshell

No i am using 2 leds. I can take a pic in the am, i have to find my phone...


----------



## aar0nsky

I use 4 LEDs in my raystorm, never a problem with the lighting effects


----------



## aar0nsky

Also, anyone else using 3/4 OD fittings on this ??


----------



## csm725

We've got some catching up to do.


----------



## douglatins

I got one, i like it, though still struggling with my 80C load temps with my 4ghz 930.....


----------



## OnrA

Well i've Ek HF supreme full nickel, also just ordered Raystorm out of curiosity and good looks







I'll compare results as soon as i get it. Don't really think it can possibly beat Hf but 2-3 degrees loss with better looks would be pretty good.
Have Phobya hegrease extreme and Arctic Mx-4, i also intend to try both. Phobya was better for me.

Anyone tried Raystorm over Hf full nickel ?


----------



## TARIKK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OnrA*
> 
> Well i've Ek HF supreme full nickel, also just ordered Raystorm out of curiosity and good looks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll compare results as soon as i get it. Don't really think it can possibly beat Hf but 2-3 degrees loss with better looks would be pretty good.
> Have Phobya hegrease extreme and Arctic Mx-4, i also intend to try both. Phobya was better for me.
> Anyone tried Raystorm over Hf full nickel ?


Will do it soon. I'll let you know about the outcome mate


----------



## ViperSB1

Getting ready to mount my new RayStorm. Was going to mount it vertically, inlet at the top, outlet at the bottom. Has anyone mounted this way? Wondering if it will hurt the blocks performance...


----------



## 1rkrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aar0nsky*
> 
> Also, anyone else using 3/4 OD fittings on this ??


i'm using Monsoon 1/2 ID 3/4 OD


----------



## douglatins

Hey do you guys rotate the second set of screws?


----------



## error-id10t

Are there any other people not impressed with Raystorm block performance? Have you done comparisons against any other blocks yet..?

Could the CPU (my CPU specifically of course) just be very very poor in getting it's temps out, causing the issues I have .. is that possible? My loop works nicely as shown by the 580 GPU block temps at 1Ghz and I've just cleaned the rad again completely in vinegar and hot water - with no improvement, meaning my CPU temp problems is either the CPU or it's block.


----------



## 1rkrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> Hey do you guys rotate the second set of screws?


yeah. after you tightened the top screws , you have to put some pressure by tightening the second set (nuts).


----------



## douglatins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> yeah. after you tightened the top screws , you have to put some pressure by tightening the second set (nuts).


How much? I'm getting not optimal temps and i think its from the mount, i don't know how much i have rotated so it must be uneven contact pressure
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> Are there any other people not impressed with Raystorm block performance? Have you done comparisons against any other blocks yet..?
> Could the CPU (my CPU specifically of course) just be very very poor in getting it's temps out, causing the issues I have .. is that possible? My loop works nicely as shown by the 580 GPU block temps at 1Ghz and I've just cleaned the rad again completely in vinegar and hot water - with no improvement, meaning my CPU temp problems is either the CPU or it's block.


How are the temps? Open the block and see it the base fins are not perpendicular to the jet plate. That causes really bad temps


----------



## Sophath

Is it worth getting at 50$?
And can it be lapped if the plate is not straight?


----------



## douglatins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sophath*
> 
> Is it worth getting at 50$?
> And can it be lapped if the plate is not straight?


Sure and you don't need to lap it, the base is that way for small processors. If you want a straigh block buy a EK or koolance i think


----------



## WolfssFang

looks like im part of the club







Only thing i wish i could change is the LED that's with the res, i attached it onto the higher point and super glued it, wish i had it on the bottom part.


----------



## Ranger_XP

I just got mine and LOVE it. So much cooler than the old DD I had in there. I think I actually am down about 4C. over my previous block.. and the thing looks so freakin cool all lit up at night. Yeah XSPC.. block, rad, and res. - I would have bought the kit of it came with an ES series rad.. but hey more fun when you build yourself right?


----------



## Ranger_XP

> Getting ready to mount my new RayStorm. Was going to mount it vertically, inlet at the top, outlet at the bottom. Has anyone mounted this way? Wondering if it will hurt the blocks performance...

That is how I mounted mine.. it seemed like the logical way to do it considering gravity and all







seems to run great.


----------



## mironccr345

Hey guys! Does anyone have an extra Intel Mounting Bracket? I'm switching to Intel and would like to use the RayStorm CPU block, I just need the Intel mounting plate. PM me please!!


----------



## DaClownie

Perhaps a silly question - how tight do I need to tighten the second set of screws? I feel like I've got it rather well twisted on there, but I'm just curious how y'all are doing it. I don't want to apply too much, or not apply enough. Especially with this thing cooling Ivy Bridge, need to make sure I keep those temps as low as possible


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Perhaps a silly question - how tight do I need to tighten the second set of screws? I feel like I've got it rather well twisted on there, but I'm just curious how y'all are doing it. I don't want to apply too much, or not apply enough. Especially with this thing cooling Ivy Bridge, need to make sure I keep those temps as low as possible


Im not sure, but I tightened the second part of the screws as far as they would go and with-in a few months, the mounting bracket was warped. I can post pics if your interested? Does anyone else have this problem?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Perhaps a silly question - how tight do I need to tighten the second set of screws? I feel like I've got it rather well twisted on there, but I'm just curious how y'all are doing it. I don't want to apply too much, or not apply enough. Especially with this thing cooling Ivy Bridge, need to make sure I keep those temps as low as possible
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im not sure, but I tightened the second part of the screws as far as they would go and with-in a few months, the mounting bracket was warped. I can post pics if your interested? Does anyone else have this problem?
Click to expand...

Out of curiosity, I just tried tightening them up a lot this morning, gave em a a good tightening, but not as tight as I could possibly get them with fingers only (I don't want to break anything), and then backed off a tiny bit.

I do wish this information was included originally, as it adds a TON of value to the all copper block, being that you won't warp the metal mounting brackets.

Hopefully she holds up, or I'll be contacting XSPC for replacement parts


----------



## Trox

Hi mates,

Looks like im part of the party too,



Cheers,

Bruno-


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trox*
> 
> Hi mates,
> 
> Looks like im part of the party too,
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Bruno-


Haven't seen that before. Sleeved and heatshrinked tubing? Looks different


----------



## mironccr345

@Trox Nice rig. What kind of case is that? What did you use to sleeve your tubes?

Here are the pictures of my AMD Raystorm Bracket warped from tightening the second part of the screws. Hope you can see it?





I've sent an email to XSPC two weeks ago. No reply so far. Anyone have better luck with customer service from XSPC?

Here's the Intel Aluminum Bracket I bought from Amazon for $14.00, fee shipping.


I'm sure this wont have any problems with warping. I'll have to paint it black to match the block, but that's not a problem.


----------



## Deeks

here is my raystorm. nothing special just replaced the led with green ones


----------



## Trox

@ DaClownie, @mironccr345

It's a modded Mini P180 by Antec, just big size sleeving and a lot of work, still some cable sleeving needed and extras.

Here is another pic.

enjoy-


----------



## wevsspot

I've had mine since early this year, but just came across this thread. Here she is;


----------



## raxf

hey guys, I got my raystorm, but the the 1155 socket backplate had its sticker removed and wouldnt stick either.One of the led lights was also broken, looks like its been cut.







.Has this happened to anyone else?


----------



## wevsspot

That's a bummer. But no, that didn't happen to me. I received mine in perfect condition. I wouldn't worry about the backplate not sticking (in fact that's a blessing if you ever want to get the darned thing off in the future.

However, it sounds to me like might have got a returned open box item.


----------



## MrStevilKnievel

I love my all copper Raystorm block. Just remember to take off the plastic cover on the base before you install. I forgot and was at first disappointed with the temps I was getting. Then I realized that I did not take off the plastic film on the block. Now I am happy. Don't over do the thermal paste. One little ball is way more than what is needed.

IMG_0002.JPG 117k .JPG file


IMG_0003.JPG 102k .JPG file


This thing is heavy. Love the mounting system. The spring set up is really nice. 3/8 inch tubing fits perfect. Found that 1/2 inch is a bit too wide and so the spacing of the in and out interferes with some compression fittings.

So far, the best CPU block I've ever owned. Temperature numbers are way better than others I have owned. Flow seems very good.

My Raystorm also had no sticky on the back plate. I think this is normal. Every one I've seen so far has no sticky on the back of the 1155 plate.

Also running the Raystorm 360 v2 rad. Very thick. Won't fit in a lot of cases. Even close in a Cooler Master HAF X case. The rad is so thick, that running fans in either a push or a pull but not both. But that is OK as the fin count is 8 fins per inch and that allows for excellent air flow from either a push or a pull.


----------



## Psychosis5150

Can I join?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1259663/my-800d-money-pit-first-wc-loop


----------



## somonehastaken

Can I be part of this club as well


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raxf*
> 
> hey guys, I got my raystorm, but the the 1155 socket backplate had its sticker removed and wouldnt stick either.One of the led lights was also broken, looks like its been cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .Has this happened to anyone else?


Not me, send it back for a replacement.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStevilKnievel*
> 
> I love my all copper Raystorm block. Just remember to take off the plastic cover on the base before you install. I forgot and was at first disappointed with the temps I was getting. Then I realized that I did not take off the plastic film on the block. Now I am happy. Don't over do the thermal paste. One little ball is way more than what is needed.
> 
> IMG_0002.JPG 117k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_0003.JPG 102k .JPG file
> 
> This thing is heavy. Love the mounting system. The spring set up is really nice. 3/8 inch tubing fits perfect. Found that 1/2 inch is a bit too wide and so the spacing of the in and out interferes with some compression fittings.
> So far, the best CPU block I've ever owned. Temperature numbers are way better than others I have owned. Flow seems very good.
> My Raystorm also had no sticky on the back plate. I think this is normal. Every one I've seen so far has no sticky on the back of the 1155 plate.
> Also running the Raystorm 360 v2 rad. Very thick. Won't fit in a lot of cases. Even close in a Cooler Master HAF X case. The rad is so thick, that running fans in either a push or a pull but not both. But that is OK as the fin count is 8 fins per inch and that allows for excellent air flow from either a push or a pull.


Nice rig! The copper block works well with the Noctua fans. I've used the RayStorm block on my AMD rig. Now that I've switch to Intel I'll be using the same block with a metal intel mounting bracket I bought off amazon. I'll post pics once my rig is up and running.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psychosis5150*
> 
> Can I join?
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1259663/my-800d-money-pit-first-wc-loop


Nice copper pipping job. I just saw your work log and it looks sweet! I'm not into RAM blocks, but that one looks really nice!


----------



## Psychosis5150

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice copper pipping job. I just saw your work log and it looks sweet! I'm not into RAM blocks, but that one looks really nice!


Thanks! The ram block matches the Raystorm perfectly, even comes with blue leds.


----------



## gliggo

Red Raystorm









Love the block, however has anyone had discoloration on the back of the block? Like a kind of burnt/stained cooper look?

Got a second raystorm because of this, didn't like the look of my old one. Thought it might have been because I've taken my loop apart a few times and it's been on and off.










Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> Red Raystorm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the block, however has anyone had discoloration on the back of the block? Like a kind of burnt/stained cooper look?
> Got a second raystorm because of this, didn't like the look of my old one. Thought it might have been because I've taken my loop apart a few times and it's been on and off.
> Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2


That's normal oxidization on copper. If it didn't do that it's not copper. You can either ignore it or clean it with vinegar mix/ketchup/other home remedy plus toothbrush.


----------



## gliggo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gliggo*
> 
> Red Raystorm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the block, however has anyone had discoloration on the back of the block? Like a kind of burnt/stained cooper look?
> Got a second raystorm because of this, didn't like the look of my old one. Thought it might have been because I've taken my loop apart a few times and it's been on and off.
> Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
> 
> 
> 
> That's normal oxidization on copper. If it didn't do that it's not copper. You can either ignore it or clean it with vinegar mix/ketchup/other home remedy plus toothbrush.
Click to expand...

Oo okay didn't know that, thanks mate!









I'll try cleaning it, always good to have a spare I guess









Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## mironccr345

Before:


After:


Finished!


----------



## wevsspot

^ +1 for awesome!


----------



## mandrix

Has anyone had any super stiff springs with their Raystorm block? The first time I installed it I use the old Rasa mounts and they worked fine. Pulled it out and reinstalled and used the screws/springs from the Raystorm kit and I couldn't even get the threads started in the back plate, that's how stiff the springs are. Everything else looks the same as the Rasa kit, just the springs are different, they are beyond stiff, I can't begin to compress one with my fingers.

On another note, got the Raystorm Copper coming for a new build, anyone seen better temps with the all copper block? I know the Acetyl top Raystorm outperfoms my Rasa by quite a bit.


----------



## mandrix

Well anyway I notified ppcs and sent pics they are going to forward to XSPC.


----------



## mironccr345

Good luck! Hope you get new hardware. Odd that the springs would get like that. I've used the springs twice on two separate builds and had no problems.


----------



## audioholic

leak test loop is in full swing









(cat included)


----------



## Goofy Goober

some shots of my Raystorm




































temps are good, but not so good, the 4th core is always 8-9° C above di others (the 2nd one 6-7° C). I suppose the two 580s in the loop have little impact on the cpu temps.


----------



## joesaiditstrue




----------



## Trippen Out

http://www.overclock.net/t/1070063/trippen-out-sandybridge-upgrade-thread/0_100#post_17551445

Got mine installed today. Im seeing boo boo temps. im guessing it was just a bad mount. I personally dislike the backplate for the 1156 boards it just does not wanna stay stuck to the back of the board. made it hell to mount.


----------



## Johnny Utah

any special tips for installing this with indigo xtreme for socket 2011?


----------



## ViperSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Utah*
> 
> any special tips for installing this with indigo xtreme for socket 2011?


Yeah... DON'T!


----------



## npo717

I'm in.


----------



## ViperSB1

Please add me to the club. Finally done with the build... for now.


----------



## Drin-King757

You guys have some nice rigs! Awesome work!


----------



## kizwan

Look like I will be joining this club soon. I just ordered Raystorm EX240 water cooling kit.


----------



## skyn3t

and i just found my club block








Original Post : Plasticizer Problems / Discussion / Gallery post #861
Our Plasticizer Test Bench as know my HTPC.








I'm going to replace the Blue Led to red

I just had this done yesterday and its running very good hardward info is in my sig RiG Plasticizer Test Bench









I had no time to play nice with this bench test because i have been busy in the past weeks so I'm work in my own custom case and when it ready i will going to show how it is supposed to look.


----------



## taotree

[deleted as it seemed like wrong place for this post]


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Has anyone had any super stiff springs with their Raystorm block? The first time I installed it I use the old Rasa mounts and they worked fine. Pulled it out and reinstalled and used the screws/springs from the Raystorm kit and I couldn't even get the threads started in the back plate, that's how stiff the springs are. Everything else looks the same as the Rasa kit, just the springs are different, they are beyond stiff, I can't begin to compress one with my fingers.
> On another note, got the Raystorm Copper coming for a new build, anyone seen better temps with the all copper block? I know the Acetyl top Raystorm outperfoms my Rasa by quite a bit.


Yup my springs where still as hell as well..

I struggled some but started off mounting 1 in opposite corners to even out the pressure then it became a little easier for me.


----------



## tha d0ctor

I just ordered mine for a new build. I plan on swapping out the LEDs if using them at all. I'll be back from deplayoment by the end of the month, gonna hook this beast up to a Switech MCR420 XP on the new Lian Li tech bench I ordered along with a few other upgrades and see how it goes.. will post with pics once its all set up


----------



## ViperSB1

Cant wait to get me one of these!! Chrome FTW!!


----------



## mironccr345

That looks sick!


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Yeah, that is a nice looking block.


----------



## audioholic

Pretty sure I already posted but here is my finished build











I dont have temps or anything as my 670 is faulty...but going to get it RMAd and then the fun should really begin


----------



## tha d0ctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Pretty sure I already posted but here is my finished build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have temps or anything as my 670 is faulty...but going to get it RMAd and then the fun should really begin


wow it looks like I am swapping out the default blue LEDs for red.. very nice!


----------



## mandrix

I never did post back about my stiff spring dillema. Anyway, supposedly all the springs in the kits are the same. Now, I have 2 Raystorm blocks, the acetyl top and the full copper, and both are on identical boards. For some reason the springs that came with the acetyl top kit were super stiff, but have loosened up after several remounts I did while testing the blocks and a very hot 3770K cpu. For some reason my newest 3770K runs 9 or 10c hotter than the other one, even after lapping there was no or minimal change in temps. So the "hot" one got swapped to my second rig and the older one got swapped into my new build.
But the official word from XSPC is that all the spring kits are identical. I just know what I saw.


----------



## dejahboi

I guess i can join the Club







My eX360 comes in this tuesday


----------



## feniks

running it on my 3770K, very good block it seems! installation is kinda tricky and I wished I had a third hand, other than that it behaves and looks purely awesome


----------



## dejahboi

Got it today, the install requires a 3rd hand







. Yeah it was a bit annoying but finally got it on the mobo. So far not to shabby


----------



## mandrix

Because I've had my blocks on and off so many times I improvise for the "third hand". Seems like the backplate always wants to come loose for me so I take a small block of wood (end of a kiln dried 2x4) and tape it to the backplate, wrapping the tape from the end of the case up to the HDD area.
No need to bother the wife and only takes a minute to do with some painters tape.
The backplate stays in place and I have two hands to handle the block and mounting screws.


----------



## dejahboi

You guys have problems aligning the Dual Res to your cases? Holes on the res just dont seem to match :/.


----------



## mironccr345

It should, but then again, mine didn't line up with the RV02. I just drilled some small holes and it did the job.


----------



## Cubanomh

Hi, i ve got a problem with mounting Raystorm on my Rampage IV Formula (LGA 2011)
Raystorm comes with M4 screws fixing set and ok, on ekwb website there is a solution for mounting it.
But.. not a word about originally mounted backplate for my MOBO. Yesterday i contacted ekwb support, Paul Lockey answered me that i should use that M4 fixing set, and " there is no need for a backplate". Thats it. But no need for a raystorm 2011 backplate or what?
So... shoud I :
1. remove original backplate and use M4 fixing set without any backplate
2. remove original backplate, put Raystorm 2011 backplate and then use M4 screws fixing set
3. put Raystorm backplate on original mobo backplate ( kinda hard really) and then use M4 fixing set.

Pls help, i m trying to build my comp for few days.


----------



## TonyGrunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cubanomh*
> 
> Hi, i ve got a problem with mounting Raystorm on my Rampage IV Formula (LGA 2011)
> Raystorm comes with M4 screws fixing set and ok, on ekwb website there is a solution for mounting it.
> But.. not a word about originally mounted backplate for my MOBO. Yesterday i contacted ekwb support, Paul Lockey answered me that i should use that M4 fixing set, and " there is no need for a backplate". Thats it. But no need for a raystorm 2011 backplate or what?
> So... shoud I :
> 1. remove original backplate and use M4 fixing set without any backplate
> 2. remove original backplate, put Raystorm 2011 backplate and then use M4 screws fixing set
> 3. put Raystorm backplate on original mobo backplate ( kinda hard really) and then use M4 fixing set.
> Pls help, i m trying to build my comp for few days.


I have the Rampage IV Extreme (LGA 2011) with a Raystorm.
No need to remove/replace the backplate.
Do you have the 2011 marked screws from the 2nd picture of the instructions? http://www.xs-pc.com/2011/11/lga2011-fixing-set-for-rasa-and-raystorm/
Do you have the Intel version of the Raystorm and not the AMD? Check http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/cpu-waterblocks/


----------



## ColdFusionWi

Has there been any word on when the chrome version of the Raystorm will be released?


----------



## mandrix

Would like to see the the solid mounts have some sort of led lighting like the acetyl versions. Don't know how they would do it , maybe some slots or something? If I had a spare I'd try some creative drilling....


----------



## Neo Zuko

Ave you guys seen the new Chrome Edition of the Raystorm yet? Looks nice.

http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/cpu-waterblocks/raystorm-cpu-waterblock-intel-chrome/

Chrome plated copper ... How does chrome mix with other metals in a loop?


----------



## dejahboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Ave you guys seen the new Chrome Edition of the Raystorm yet? Looks nice.
> http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/cpu-waterblocks/raystorm-cpu-waterblock-intel-chrome/
> Chrome plated copper ... How does chrome mix with other metals in a loop?


It's just chrome plated, so nothing in the loop doesn't mix into the loop if that answers your question







. And I should of waited before I bought mine :/..


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dejahboi*
> 
> It's just chrome plated, so nothing in the loop doesn't mix into the loop if that answers your question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . And I should of waited before I bought mine :/..


I think the top part is chrome inside out, but my quick google fu seems to suggest that chrome is ok in a loop. I think I found my water block. Sure the Copper edition would match my Aqua Computer GPU blocks more, but I just did the Chrome too much, I could get some chrome fittings to match, and it looks so badass with the acrylic mount. Too bad you can't buy it all like that, does that acrylic mount sell separate, or do I have to buy a whole other block just to get it?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dejahboi*
> 
> It's just chrome plated, so nothing in the loop doesn't mix into the loop if that answers your question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . And I should of waited before I bought mine :/..


I will get mine end of this week or next week. My seller told me it is new stock from XSPC (fresh shipment, at custom yesterday). What is the chance I'll get the chrome one?


----------



## kizwan

My Raystorm EX240 kit + a bottle of distilled red coolant arrived today. Before I assemble everything, I need to do some reading first.











The springs are really so stiff.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> My Raystorm EX240 kit + a bottle of distilled red coolant arrived today. Before I assemble everything, I need to do some reading first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The springs are really so stiff.


Nice! Post pics when you've finished.


----------



## moparbob7

Hey guys I just got the raystorm for AMD and I have a question about it. When I tighten it down, it bends the plastic. The whole thing bows because the CPU block sits high and when you tighten it down it bends and I dont know how far I should go. I can still move the Water block on the CPU but the whole thing is bowed pretty good!!!

Thanks,
Bob


----------



## mandrix

You can move the block? That's not necessarily going to hurt you. But you might actually have it too tight if it's bowed very far. All you need is to snug it up evenly (with the Intel mounts it's pretty good after just getting the screws in all the way) then maybe a little more with the inside nuts. Overdoing it won't net you anything. But I have never used the AMD mount personally.
Maybe just start over and with fresh TIM and snug it good, then give it a little bit more without bowing it much if at all.


----------



## Draven

Hey guys here is mine in my new rig and it's working great


----------



## macca_dj

Nice to see some pics of peoples rigs,

Sorry for my absence been off line for a long time,

Welcome to the club all the new people that have posted here,

Draven73 is going to sort out some spread sheets for a members form Thank you Draven


----------



## popswala

I got one of these a few wks ago. Soo can't wait to get it installed. First time going water and I feel I made a good choice with this block. It just looks awesome. I currently made some tailed white leds on a molex for mine since i have all white lights in my case. I'll work on getting some pics up of my block and the build its going in. but for now:

case: NZXT Phantom black modded with white accents
mobo: MSI P55-GD80
cpu: I7 870 (oc 4.0)
ram: G.Skill Tridents DDR3 2x2GB 2000MHz
gpu: eVGA 460
SSD:Muskin Callistro 60G (OS drive)
hdd: Seagate 1.5TB
psu:Corsair HX1000
CD: LG combo burner
OS: Win 7 ult x64

loop:
Block: xspc raystorm black acetal
rad: black ice stealth 240 blue
pump: d5
res: ek 250 basic
tubing: 1/2x3/4 white
fittings bitspower black comps (reg's,angles and extenders)


----------



## Neo Zuko

I decided to buy the Copper Raystorm over the Chrome... I just don't want to mix metals via plating. Chrome is sexy though.


----------



## macca_dj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *popswala*
> 
> I got one of these a few wks ago. Soo can't wait to get it installed. First time going water and I feel I made a good choice with this block. It just looks awesome. I currently made some tailed white leds on a molex for mine since i have all white lights in my case. I'll work on getting some pics up of my block and the build its going in. but for now:
> case: NZXT Phantom black modded with white accents
> mobo: MSI P55-GD80
> cpu: I7 870 (oc 4.0)
> ram: G.Skill Tridents DDR3 2x2GB 2000MHz
> gpu: eVGA 460
> SSD:Muskin Callistro 60G (OS drive)
> hdd: Seagate 1.5TB
> psu:Corsair HX1000
> CD: LG combo burner
> OS: Win 7 ult x64
> loop:
> Block: xspc raystorm black acetal
> rad: black ice stealth 240 blue
> pump: d5
> res: ek 250 basic
> tubing: 1/2x3/4 white
> fittings bitspower black comps (reg's,angles and extenders)


It would be nice to see some pics of the build when you are doing it also some comparative temps from what you are using now versus the raystorm,

@ Neo Zuko
I really do like the look of the chromed water block but my system does not have any other chrome in it so it would not look right to me,


----------



## SandShark

Hi guys, Count me in







.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Decided to give the Chrome Raystorm a whirl, I hope the Chrome is as harmless as I have been told!! Its soo pretty.


----------



## popswala

Quote:


> It would be nice to see some pics of the build when you are doing it also some comparative temps from what you are using now versus the raystorm,


I will definitely get some pics up when I can. Currently its under a Tt Frio OCK at 48*c under full load crunching 100% at 4.0GHZ. I'm hoping the block can get me any lower then that so I can try pushing the chip a lil higher.

On the chrome blocks. Thats only plated on outside right? so why does everyone freak out bout mixing metal when the coolant doesn't come in contact with the chrome since the block is copper with chrome plating. It might look nice on the outside but me personally I would just sand the bottom off to reveal copper for much better contact for the heat.


----------



## popswala

Here"s a few pics of my block.




Heres a shot of the rig its going to go in


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *popswala*
> 
> I will definitely get some pics up when I can. Currently its under a Tt Frio OCK at 48*c under full load crunching 100% at 4.0GHZ. I'm hoping the block can get me any lower then that so I can try pushing the chip a lil higher.
> On the chrome blocks. Thats only plated on outside right? so why does everyone freak out bout mixing metal when the coolant doesn't come in contact with the chrome since the block is copper with chrome plating. It might look nice on the outside but me personally I would just sand the bottom off to reveal copper for much better contact for the heat.


The bottom is bare copper unplated already. Its just bolted onto the chrome top section, only the top is plated inside and out. So you are mixing touching metals for sure. And the plating is not always perfect, there could be microscopic imperfections, or even the fittings grinding in. Then you have the same issue, the seal is broken so to speak. In any case, I am banking on chrome being close enough to copper on the metal eat metal scale to not make a difference.


----------



## kizwan

I have question regarding the stock clear/transparent tube that come with the kit; will it remain clear for a long time?


----------



## mandrix

The tubing that comes with the XSPC kits? No, it won't remain clear long, unless they've changed their tubing from what they used to send. It will get real ugly after a few weeks/months.


----------



## kizwan

Can you recommend any brand (clear tube) that last longer? And how long they will remain clear?


----------



## mironccr345

I'd say PrimoChill. I've had clear running im my wife's rig for about a year and it still looks good.


----------



## popswala

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> The bottom is bare copper unplated already. Its just bolted onto the chrome top section, only the top is plated inside and out. So you are mixing touching metals for sure. And the plating is not always perfect, there could be microscopic imperfections, or even the fittings grinding in. Then you have the same issue, the seal is broken so to speak. In any case, I am banking on chrome being close enough to copper on the metal eat metal scale to not make a difference.


I'm gonna google around and see if i can find pics of the inside of the plated model. Your saying it is plated on the inside of the block where the coolant flows? That don't sound right. Not sure why they did that. I feel its better to just have a bare copper bottom on the chip for better heat transfer. If it is plated inside then I will def stay away from that ont as i'd rather have full copper. It does look nice and shiny on the outside and thats where it should stay.


----------



## macca_dj

The top of the Special Edition is all chromed even down the threads for the inlet and outlet and the copper base is still copper on the internals,


----------



## mandrix

so where are the chrome ones?


----------



## Tabinhu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Can you recommend any brand (clear tube) that last longer? And how long they will remain clear?


Do not get primochill, get tygoon. Primochill is having alot of plasticizer problems

Sent from my GT-I9070 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## nyk20z3

I love mine so far i just don't like how stiff the springs are it makes it a pain in the ass to screw everything down.


----------



## nyk20z3

I have 4 blue leds in mine.


----------



## Draven

@macca_dj just wanted to let you know I haven't forgot about everyone lol I have Wednesday and Thursday off from work so if you have any time during those two days I can send over all the codes for the spreadsheet, application form, and sig. Just let me know


----------



## aeonoscence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tabinhu*
> 
> Do not get primochill, get tygoon. Primochill is having alot of plasticizer problems
> Sent from my GT-I9070 using Tapatalk 2


*tygon.

primochill tubing is good. there are no problems with it.

can i join the club...i have a red raystorm


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aeonoscence*
> 
> *tygon.
> primochill tubing is good. there are no problems with it.
> can i join the club...i have a red raystorm


No Primochill has all kinds of problems and i have experienced it first hand.


----------



## aeonoscence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> No Primochill has all kinds of problems and i have experienced it first hand.


Ive been using primochill for a year and ive only gotten kinking.


----------



## macca_dj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Draven73*
> 
> @macca_dj just wanted to let you know I haven't forgot about everyone lol I have Wednesday and Thursday off from work so if you have any time during those two days I can send over all the codes for the spreadsheet, application form, and sig. Just let me know


Send them over when ever you are ready Draven and then I will get to work at getting them inserted in to this Thread









Thanks again..


----------



## Draven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macca_dj*
> 
> Send them over when ever you are ready Draven and then I will get to work at getting them inserted in to this Thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again..


All sent to your email.


----------



## rmcknight36

Here is my raystorm


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aeonoscence*
> 
> Ive been using primochill for a year and ive only gotten kinking.


You have been lucky sir i had known Plasticizer issues with both there clear and UV green tubing but i am glad you didn't go through the same thing.


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmcknight36*
> 
> Here is my raystorm


Looks great but is it me or do i not see any led cables going to the cpu block ?


----------



## rmcknight36

i hid them.







look at the top right portion of the block you will see the wires


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmcknight36*
> 
> Here is my raystorm
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice rig!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 4 blue leds in mine.


Nice! Where the rest of the pics? I'd like to see the rest of your loop.


----------



## pbi76

Hi everyone:

I am having temperature issues with my system. My CPU is a 2600k clocked at 4.5ghz using 1.3v but power saving features are active at idle. CPU waterblock is a Raystorm. My GPU is a reference 680GTX and the block is from EK. Pump is a D5 at max setting and it is installed in a XSPC reservoir and my radiators are a RX480 and RX240. Fans are Slipstreams in a pull configuration. The loop order is as follows:

Reservoir/Pump ->RX240->GPU->RX480->CPU->back to Reservoir/Pump

My GPU idles at around 32 degrees and maxes out at about 46 degrees under Unigine. The CPU is the problem. It idles at 41 degrees and hits almost 65-70 under Prime95. I have re-seated the block a number of times and primarily use Gelid Extreme for TIM. I have also checked to make sure that the inlet/outlet ports of the Raystorm are in the correct order.

What do you guys think? My CPU temperatures seem quite high I think but I don't know how to reduce it. Since my GPU is doing okay, could it be that my Raystorm is defective?

Thanks.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbi76*
> 
> Hi everyone:
> I am having temperature issues with my system. My CPU is a 2600k clocked at 4.5ghz using 1.3v but power saving features are active at idle. CPU waterblock is a Raystorm. My GPU is a reference 680GTX and the block is from EK. Pump is a D5 at max setting and it is installed in a XSPC reservoir and my radiators are a RX480 and RX240. Fans are Slipstreams in a pull configuration. The loop order is as follows:
> Reservoir/Pump ->RX240->GPU->RX480->CPU->back to Reservoir/Pump
> My GPU idles at around 32 degrees and maxes out at about 46 degrees under Unigine. The CPU is the problem. It idles at 41 degrees and hits almost 65-70 under Prime95. I have re-seated the block a number of times and primarily use Gelid Extreme for TIM. I have also checked to make sure that the inlet/outlet ports of the Raystorm are in the correct order.
> What do you guys think? My CPU temperatures seem quite high I think but I don't know how to reduce it. Since my GPU is doing okay, could it be that my Raystorm is defective?
> Thanks.


Wow, that is pretty high for your loop. What are you using to monitor your temps? Also, what's your ambiant temps
and what are your cpu temps on stock clocks? I have the raystorm on my 2700k and I've had it clocked at 4.5GHz with about the same Volts and it stayed below 60c.


----------



## pbi76

I use CoreTemp. I posted my problem in another forum and it seems my ambient temperatures is most likely the culprit. My ambient temperatures are in the low to mid-30s and my fan settings are minimum.

Given my ambient temperatures, My GPU at idle is practically the same as my ambient temps (Is this even possible?). Does this mean that CPUs are harder to cool than GPUs?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbi76*
> 
> I use CoreTemp. I posted my problem in another forum and it seems my ambient temperatures is most likely the culprit. My ambient temperatures are in the low to mid-30s and my fan settings are minimum.
> Given my ambient temperatures, My GPU at idle is practically the same as my ambient temps (Is this even possible?). Does this mean that CPUs are harder to cool than GPUs?


With ambient temperatures that high, the temps you are seeing seem to be normal to me. Also GPUs in general from what I've experienced do respond much better to water cooling, of course CPUs respond good, but the temperature drops experienced with water cooling a graphics card is always more drastic. Also even with my 670's being air cooled, they do idle pretty close to ambient, so it sounds normal that your water cooled 680 stays real close to your ambient of mid 30's.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Add me to the club.

I got the RS360 kit with the Raystorm. Here it is set up on my bench doing a 24 hour shake down test to make sure nothing will be DOA (nothing did). I'll install it into my folding machine later today.



I can't wait to see how well this cools.


----------



## rmcknight36

How long have had this setup? If its a new setup, a common mistake people make with the cpu block is when removing the plastic around it the forget to remove the film that is actually applied to the bottom of the block itself.which will cause higher temps.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmcknight36*
> 
> How long have had this setup? If its a new setup, a common mistake people make with the cpu block is when removing the plastic around it the forget to remove the film that is actually applied to the bottom of the block itself.which will cause higher temps.


If that was the case, temps would be a lot higher. Trust me, I know from experience







I was really embarrassed about it, but yes, I did do it.

EDIT: I quoted you assuming you were talking about the situation with pbi76, hope I was correct.


----------



## rmcknight36

Your correct


----------



## pbi76

At this point, I'm pretty much convinced that the high ambient temperature in my place is the culprit given that I have re-checked my installation. I also checked if my CPU and Raystorm are flat and if the waterblock is seated properly.

I ran Prime again early this morning while the ambient temps are still lower than usual and there was an improvement in CPU temperature.

I'll leave my system as-is for now and observe since my temps are safe anyway. When I have more time, I'll teardown my system and perform a more thorough inspection of my components.

Thank you everyone for the advice and useful information.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbi76*
> 
> At this point, I'm pretty much convinced that the high ambient temperature in my place is the culprit given that I have re-checked my installation. I also checked if my CPU and Raystorm are flat and if the waterblock is seated properly.
> I ran Prime again early this morning while the ambient temps are still lower than usual and there was an improvement in CPU temperature.
> I'll leave my system as-is for now and observe since my temps are safe anyway. When I have more time, I'll teardown my system and perform a more thorough inspection of my components.
> Thank you everyone for the advice and useful information.


Good luck with your future inspections. Let us know what the results are.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Well, I dare say that I'm happy as heck with my Raystorm.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Well, I dare say that I'm happy as heck with my Raystorm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice clock on your 2700K.







What are your ambient temps like?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Nice clock on your 2700K.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are you ambient temps like?


It's sitting in a room that is set at 74F/23.3C right now. Once I am very satisfied with my OC'ing, I'll put it in my "cool closet", which has it's own air conditioner and is run 24/7 at a 68F/20C.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Well, I dare say that I'm happy as heck with my Raystorm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice OC and temps. Any pic's of the rig?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice OC and temps. Any pic's of the rig?


Yes, here is the build log for it.

[Build Log] Project White Ranger - 24/7 Team Competition i7 Folder


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Yes, here is the build log for it.
> [Build Log] Project White Ranger - 24/7 Team Competition i7 Folder
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now *that* is an awesome dedicated folder. I saw you talking about the PPD you're getting in the FFW thread, it's great.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Yes, here is the build log for it.
> [Build Log] Project White Ranger - 24/7 Team Competition i7 Folder
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's your folding rig?! Nice work! All that 360 for the CPU........It's giving me ideas for my folding rig.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Now *that* is an awesome dedicated folder. I saw you talking about the PPD you're getting in the FFW thread, it's great.


Thank you.

You don't even want to know what I have plans for Folding wise if I win the lotto.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That's your folding rig?! Nice work! All that 360 for the CPU........It's giving me ideas for my folding rig.


Yes, that is my "Team Competition" Folding rig. All this one does is sit in a corner and Fold.

I also fold on a bunch of other machines, many in my sig, some are also 24/7 Folders (like a dual Xeon server, a single Xeon server, an E5200 desktop, and an i5-2500k desktop) and 2 other machines that Fold usually 8-16+ hours a day.

My sister and father (as well as several other friends and more distant relatives) died from cancer, so I do what ever I can to help find cures for that and other diseases. I've been blessed with good health, a little money, and knowledge, so I try to give back any way I can.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Thank you.
> You don't even want to know what I have plans for Folding wise if I win the lotto.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that is my "Team Competition" Folding rig. All this one does is sit in a corner and Fold.
> I also fold on a bunch of other machines, many in my sig, some are also 24/7 Folders (like a dual Xeon server, a single Xeon server, an E5200 desktop, and an i5-2500k desktop) and 2 other machines that Fold usually 8-16+ hours a day.
> My sister and father (as well as several other friends and more distant relatives) died from cancer, so I do what ever I can to help find cures for that and other diseases. I've been blessed with good health, a little money, and knowledge, so I try to give back any way I can.


I'm sorry for your loss. I can tell you fold with passion for your loved ones. Wish I can contribute more, but all I have is a 24/7 folder at work. Working on piecing together a 2P rig with in a few months.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Thank you.
> You don't even want to know what I have plans for Folding wise if I win the lotto.


Actually I probably do want to know. It's probably along the lines of the plans I have.







I've had several family members suffer from Alzheimer's, and various types of cancer, I fold what I can to push towards a better understanding of these diseases. Just got some components delivered today, I'm building a 2P myself like miron.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Actually I probably do want to know. It's probably along the lines of the plans I have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've had several family members suffer from Alzheimer's, and various types of cancer, I fold what I can to push towards a better understanding of these diseases. Just got some components delivered today, I'm building a 2P myself like miron.


I'm torn between just buying 2 Lian Li PC-343B cases and building up "Thing One and Thing Two". Each one would be it's own 4P server, fully overclocked and fully water cooled. Each system would have 4 AMD MC6180's in it, a Supermicro H8QFL-IF mobo, and 1080 worth of radiators and blocks. All crammed into this monster of a case:



My other thought is to just get 4 or 6 of these beasts, keep everything air cooled, and build them into a room with a SERIOUS air conditioning system, battery backup, and enough power to light a small neighborhood:

HP C7000 w/ 16 BL460C QUAD CORE 2 X 2.5GHZ XEON,4GB,73GB,2x HP 1/10GB VC-ENET

At 64 cores per system, 4 of these, even at just 2.5GHz (L5420 Quad Core Xeon's) would be able to fold some serious PPD. Who knows, maybe I'd spring for the one with 16 blades that have the E5450 Quad Core Xeon's running at 3.0GHz. Of course that would drive the price up from $2000 per frame to $7000 per frame. Still, those are cheap compared to the $50,000 per frame for the 16 blade X5670 6-core Xeon's running at 3GHz ... but then again, at 96 cores per frame, you wouldn't need 4 of them.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I'm torn between just buying 2 Lian Li PC-343B cases and building up "Thing One and Thing Two". Each one would be it's own 4P server, fully overclocked and fully water cooled. Each system would have 4 AMD MC6180's in it, a Supermicro H8QFL-IF mobo, and 1080 worth of radiators and blocks. All crammed into this monster of a case:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My other thought is to just get 4 or 6 of these beasts, keep everything air cooled, and build them into a room with a SERIOUS air conditioning system, battery backup, and enough power to light a small neighborhood:
> HP C7000 w/ 16 BL460C QUAD CORE 2 X 2.5GHZ XEON,4GB,73GB,2x HP 1/10GB VC-ENET
> At 64 cores per system, 4 of these, even at just 2.5GHz (L5420 Quad Core Xeon's) would be able to fold some serious PPD. Who knows, maybe I'd spring for the one with 16 blades that have the E5450 Quad Core Xeon's running at 3.0GHz. Of course that would drive the price up from $2000 per frame to $7000 per frame. Still, those are cheap compared to the $50,000 per frame for the 16 blade X5670 6-core Xeon's running at 3GHz ... but then again, at 96 cores per frame, you wouldn't need 4 of them.


Dat case








Well sounds like you've got your work cut out for you. If I had the budget, I would like to follow the same route with Opteron 6180's myself, fully watercooled like a boss. But since they keep forgetting to mail me my lotto check, I'm doing what I can with the 6128's I've ordered. Every bit counts thought right.


----------



## macca_dj

Just to let Raystorm owners know that we have a members form on the start page now







so if you would like to fill out the form to have your names added to the list,









Thanks to Draven,


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macca_dj*
> 
> Just to let Raystorm owners know that we have a members form on the start page now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so if you would like to fill out the form to have your names added to the list,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to Draven,


Sweet! Added


----------



## macca_dj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Sweet! Added


Good Good,

Its taken a bit of time but I have been rather busy with work and other things,
Draven asked if he could sort them out for me so I let him to the leg work I just posted them up so big THANKS to Draven.


----------



## Draven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macca_dj*
> 
> Good Good,
> Its taken a bit of time but I have been rather busy with work and other things,
> Draven asked if he could sort them out for me so I let him to the leg work I just posted them up so big THANKS to Draven.


It was no trouble at all, I enjoy helping out


----------



## captvizcenzo

Here's my Raystorm


----------



## ChristianUshuaia

Hi there I don't know if it is correct to post here but since I'll be buying the XSPC Raystorm 360-Ultra Kit, please let me try. I already Have a Swiftech Kit H2O-220 For the CPU only, but I went crossfiring and I want to cool my Gpus without having to buy an aditional RAD/s that may restrict my Swiftech Kit and get the temps a little up. SO!.... this is why I'll be buying the XSPC Kit just to cool down my GPUs. I think it would be a SuperB Idea. This is What I'm planing:



Any suggestions?. Don't say "don't buy kits", "a custom loop is better", I want to know what do you think, I already have the swiftech and already ordered the XSPC Kit. (I don't mind spending my money). Aditional stuff: have some fittings, tubing, gpu full blocks, and energy drink so don't worry about that.

CPU AMD Phenom II x6 1100T 4.0GHz

AMD RADEON HD7970 x2 1125MHz / 1575MHz

PSU Thermaltake 1200w

Case Thermaltake Level 10 GT (Yes I figured Out how to mod this Tetris Block to fit the 360 Rad on the Top, no worries)

Thank You all for your WC Help and knowledge!.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChristianUshuaia*
> 
> Hi there I don't know if it is correct to post here but since I'll be buying the XSPC Raystorm 360-Ultra Kit, please let me try. I already Have a Swiftech Kit H2O-220 For the CPU only, but I went crossfiring and I want to cool my Gpus without having to buy an aditional RAD/s that may restrict my Swiftech Kit and get the temps a little up. SO!.... this is why I'll be buying the XSPC Kit just to cool down my GPUs. I think it would be a SuperB Idea. This is What I'm planing:
> 
> Any suggestions?. Don't say "don't buy kits", "a custom loop is better", I want to know what do you think, I already have the swiftech and already ordered the XSPC Kit. (I don't mind spending my money). Aditional stuff: have some fittings, tubing, gpu full blocks, and energy drink so don't worry about that.
> CPU AMD Phenom II x6 1100T 4.0GHz
> AMD RADEON HD7970 x2 1125MHz / 1575MHz
> PSU Thermaltake 1200w
> Case Thermaltake Level 10 GT (Yes I figured Out how to mod this Tetris Block to fit the 360 Rad on the Top, no worries)
> Thank You all for your WC Help and knowledge!.


Looks good to me. Your CPU and You're GPU's will have some nice temps with separate loops. Post those pics when your finished with your loop. Also, there's nothing wrong with WC kits, I started off with a XSPC 360 Rasa kit for my CPU loop. It was down hill from their.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChristianUshuaia*
> 
> Hi there I don't know if it is correct to post here but since I'll be buying the XSPC Raystorm 360-Ultra Kit, please let me try. I already Have a Swiftech Kit H2O-220 For the CPU only, but I went crossfiring and I want to cool my Gpus without having to buy an aditional RAD/s that may restrict my Swiftech Kit and get the temps a little up. SO!.... this is why I'll be buying the XSPC Kit just to cool down my GPUs. I think it would be a SuperB Idea. This is What I'm planing:
> 
> Any suggestions?. Don't say "don't buy kits", "a custom loop is better", I want to know what do you think, I already have the swiftech and already ordered the XSPC Kit. (I don't mind spending my money). Aditional stuff: have some fittings, tubing, gpu full blocks, and energy drink so don't worry about that.
> CPU AMD Phenom II x6 1100T 4.0GHz
> AMD RADEON HD7970 x2 1125MHz / 1575MHz
> PSU Thermaltake 1200w
> Case Thermaltake Level 10 GT (Yes I figured Out how to mod this Tetris Block to fit the 360 Rad on the Top, no worries)
> Thank You all for your WC Help and knowledge!.


I think you better merged to one loop only. The XSPC D5 pump is very good & strong pump.

D5 pump + reservoir >> 360mm rad >> CPU >> Swiftech 240mm rad >> GPUs >> D5 pump + reservoir


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I think you better merged to one loop only. The XSPC D5 pump is very good & strong pump.
> D5 pump + reservoir >> 360mm rad >> CPU >> Swiftech 240mm rad >> GPUs >> D5 pump + reservoir


This is true, the D5 moves about 1200LPH and can handle one loop configuration with no problems. But like I mentioned earlier, he'll get better temps with a Dual loop configuration. It would look a lot cleaner with a single loop config, and I actually prefer it. Either way, both configurations should keep your components cool.


----------



## feniks

All right ladies and gentlemen, some pics of my setup with Raystorm on the 3770K











The only salt here is that I actually experience quite high temps on my CPU under load and so far after going with a second CPU I don't know where the root cause of problem is. could it be that most of 3770K are simply that hot at 4.8GHz?
hitting 100C on hottest core with 3770K with 1.344v vcore under load ... really, either the CPU runs hot itself ...

... or maybe there is something wrong with my Raystorm ... I did have Promochill UV Blue tubing in past which leaked some nasty white powder into the loop ... then used Primochill Sys Scrubber (Brain from Primochill sent me a free sample of this prototype cleaner) and it basically gelified the leftovers of residue making it only worse ...
long story short, upon flushing of all components in the sink there were 2 blobs of blue gel that came out of my Raystorm block ... since then switched tubing to Feser, so far no trouble with it, but my high temp problem with Raystorm (or CPU problem) remains ... now seriously thinking there is more crap inside it perhaps? time to open it up I guess ... *sigh* ...


----------



## nyk20z3

I was hitting around 80-85C at 4.5GHZ at 1.4 volts so you should not be running as hot voltage wise but your GHz is higher which i don't think matters much compared to your voltage.

I am honestly not going to OC my 3770K anymore since its extremely powerful as is and i don't have time to mess with anything besides pre set bios values.

All i can think of is re check your tim or keep messing with your values to bring the voltage down some GL.

If you already flushed and cleaned it out i doubt there is anything left in there.


----------



## Lutfij

been reading up on this Ivy bridge issue...they apparently run hot on an overclock compared to sandy bridge chips with higher lithography.

OH, hey everyone, Me doing a small build on my current rig, purchased the copper raystorm ...will post pics when I'll have it in my hands







should be posting a build log link as well.


----------



## coolmiester

A few of my current systems using XSPC Raystorm blocks









EVGA SR-X Motherboard - Dual Intel Xeon E5-2687W CPU's


Intel DX79SI Motherboard - Intel LGA2011 Sandy Bridge-E 3960X CPU


EVGA SR-2 Motherboard - Intel Xeon X5680 CPU's


Gigabyte z68x UD4 Motherboard - Intel i7 2700K CPU


----------



## Lutfij

6 raystorms from one person?!?!?! :O wowow just...wow!


----------



## nyk20z3

He ain't messing around lol


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> A few of my current systems using XSPC Raystorm blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EVGA SR-X Motherboard - Dual Intel Xeon E5-2687W CPU's
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Intel DX79SI Motherboard - Intel LGA2011 Sandy Bridge-E 3960X CPU
> 
> EVGA SR-2 Motherboard - Intel Xeon X5680 CPU's
> 
> Gigabyte z68x UD4 Motherboard - Intel i7 2700K CPU










I only have one.


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> I was hitting around 80-85C at 4.5GHZ at 1.4 volts so you should not be running as hot voltage wise but your GHz is higher which i don't think matters much compared to your voltage.
> I am honestly not going to OC my 3770K anymore since its extremely powerful as is and i don't have time to mess with anything besides pre set bios values.
> All i can think of is re check your tim or keep messing with your values to bring the voltage down some GL.
> If you already flushed and cleaned it out i doubt there is anything left in there.


yeah, it shouldn't be that hot is what I think, especially that the one I had before was running cooler a bit ... until it degraded and started calling for insane voltages LOL!

I am still about to open up the Raystorm and make sure there is no hidden surprises in it (some demons from past), once done and still same problem then it will point to this CPU running that hot by itself.
It's not only when overclocked! at stock clocks with Turbo enabled it heats up to 60-65C under my water cooling, depending on ambient ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> been reading up on this Ivy bridge issue...they apparently run hot on an overclock compared to sandy bridge chips with higher lithography.
> OH, hey everyone, Me doing a small build on my current rig, purchased the copper raystorm ...will post pics when I'll have it in my hands
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> should be posting a build log link as well.


if opening/cleaning my Raystorm won't yield any positive results, I will be inclined to say that my CPU has a poor TIM under IHS application ... and that chip is coming from Intel RMA and was supposedly tested by them in regards to all specs .. wondering if under load temperatures were among those checks... really wondering how hot it would get with stock clocks and stock air cooling and Turbo mode enabled ... 90C, 100C, super nova?


----------



## Lutfij

TIM contact would be a good place to check for those temps


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> TIM contact would be a good place to check for those temps


It was checked twice before with (old) MX-2, TIM print near perfect, no improvements after reseating, so I went with IC Diamond which resulted in around 5C lower temps under load, but still way too high.
it could my CPU (many 1155 IVB chips have had the TIM under IHS poorly applied in factory) or it could be something clogging/restricting the proper flow inside Raystorm (a little doubtful, after flushing), time will tell.


----------



## black7hought

I'm going to order my kit tonight from FrozenCPU.


----------



## Blacksetter

Sorry, I mistakenly posted this is the Rasa thread..

I just received an EX 240 kit with the D5 pump and dual bay reservoir. Everything seems very high quality, but there are some difficulties.

For one, the back plate for socket 1155 needed to be relieved in one area to clear components on an MSi Z77 MPower board. Not a big problem, but when I try to apply the Raystorm waterblock, it seems as it the mounting rods are too short. The block has to be tilted to even start the threads into the backplate. This is just not correct. The screws should be able to be bottomed out in the backplate while the block remains flat on the cpu. Then pressure can be applied with the secondary nuts to apply pressure to the springs. I've seen other people's plexi block mounts bent from the pressure, so I ordered the aluminum clamp flange for the block.
No way will this block sit flat on the processor for mounting. Am I doing something wrong... or what gives?


----------



## ChaosAD

Yesterday i installed my raystorm. I cant say im happy with my temps. Running at 4.22ghz with 1.12v it idles at 28-31c and load after 1h of folding at 65-69c with 23-24c ambient. Parts are all listed in my sig. Did i made a bad mount? Shall i try to reseat the block? Any special attention when istalling the block with the M5G board?


----------



## black7hought

I'm looking into buying compression fittings for my entire loop (CPU/Rad/Pump+Res). What size is ideal for the RS240 kit?

I'm considering these - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12503/ex-tub-788/XSPC_G14_Thread_12_ID_x_34_OD_Low_Profile_Compression_Fitting_-_Black_Chrome.html?tl=c409s1609b49


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaosAD*
> 
> Yesterday i installed my raystorm. I cant say im happy with my temps. Running at 4.22ghz with 1.12v it idles at 28-31c and load after 1h of folding at 65-69c with 23-24c ambient. Parts are all listed in my sig. Did i made a bad mount? Shall i try to reseat the block? Any special attention when istalling the block with the M5G board?


not sure, but I have similar trouble. Mine even at stock 3770K clocks and ambient around 26C goes up to 65C with Intel Burn Test max load. wondering what is wrong, but it could be just the darned i7 3770K and its improper TIM under IHS issue. to rule it out make sure you plumbed the hoses correctly (the inlet port is marked on Raystorm, make sure it is correct with flow of your loop), reseat the block and re-check temps.


----------



## neopunx

Here's my little guy.










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ChaosAD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> not sure, but I have similar trouble. Mine even at stock 3770K clocks and ambient around 26C goes up to 65C with Intel Burn Test max load. wondering what is wrong, but it could be just the darned i7 3770K and its improper TIM under IHS issue. to rule it out make sure you plumbed the hoses correctly (the inlet port is marked on Raystorm, make sure it is correct with flow of your loop), reseat the block and re-check temps.


Everything is as it should. Inlet port, tubing, res before pump, air bleed etc. its not my first wc setup but i was expecting better temps tbh. I think i ll have to try and reseat the blo, although i doubt it will make any difference. Did you manage to find a solution to your problem? Because i u said u had problems even at stock speed and i see 4.9Ghz in your sig


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaosAD*
> 
> Everything is as it should. Inlet port, tubing, res before pump, air bleed etc. its not my first wc setup but i was expecting better temps tbh. I think i ll have to try and reseat the blo, although i doubt it will make any difference. Did you manage to find a solution to your problem? Because i u said u had problems even at stock speed and i see 4.9Ghz in your sig


hehe, yeah, I stabilized 4.9GHz and benchmarked it thanks to lowering my ambient room temps with room AC running at full blast (ambient down to 23-24C from usual 27-28C) and putting some extra fans on 1 of radiators (was pull only, now push-pull), I also installed a 24V converter for my D5 Strong pump, so better flow also helped. But to be honest, no, I haven't fixed the issue LOL! I think it's my CPU, but anyways, I will be opening Raystorm block to check for dirt limiting water flow and such during this weekend. If that yields nothing, and re-seating the block with a different TIM. now running IC Diamond on it but it's hard to spread it right and thin enough, so want to try a new Prolimatech PK-3 (recently came out).

I run 4.8Ghz daily with 25% LLC and high vcore offsets and radiator fans bumping up when needed based on MB PWM output through my fan controller. it's good this way, idles cool and can handle the heat under load, so normally in gaming I don't exceed 80C ... but running Intel Burn test brings the temps to oven hot levels (100C) ...


----------



## Ghost12

Just a question

Completed my loop with the rx360 rad, raystorm amd cpu block and a d5vario pump and top, with xspc single bay res. What is the optimal speed, temperature wise for the pump as it has 5 settings. It was set to number 2 when arrived.

Thanks in advance


----------



## feniks

^not sure about your pump, but I am running my Koolance PMP-450S daily at 24V (which is its max) and it's quiet enough for me (fans are louder). I'd set yours (12V model) to 5 and see if it's OK and leave it there.
D5 Strong has no vario and by default at 12V it runs comparably to around setting 4-4.5 on vario models, mine was dead silent at that.


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> ^not sure about your pump, but I am running my Koolance PMP-450S daily at 24V (which is its max) and it's quiet enough for me (fans are louder). I'd set yours (12V model) to 5 and see if it's OK and leave it there.
> D5 Strong has no vario and by default at 12V it runs comparably to around setting 4-4.5 on vario models, mine was dead silent at that.


Thanks for your response, not too concerned noise wise really, especially after listening to the h100 grinding away for a few months. Im more interested in the optimal performance of the unit.

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-030-OE&groupid=962&catid=2141&subcat=

The top was pre installed by tech lab and the setting was number 2. I saw someone in another thread with concern for the life of the unit so was using a setting of 3. That doesn't concern me mainly either. Optimal performance is my whole reason for going custom loop.


----------



## feniks

set it to max 5 and enjoy


----------



## ChaosAD

I run my D5 at 4 since its only a cpu-rad-res loop and its dead silent. You have to touch the pump to see its working. I dont think i ll gain anything if i set it to 5.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaosAD*
> 
> I run my D5 at 4 since its only a cpu-rad-res loop and its dead silent. You have to touch the pump to see its working. I dont think i ll gain anything if i set it to 5.
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


Great thanks, I have set mine to 4. see how goes


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> A few of my current systems using XSPC Raystorm blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> EVGA SR-X Motherboard - Dual Intel Xeon E5-2687W CPU's
> 
> Intel DX79SI Motherboard - Intel LGA2011 Sandy Bridge-E 3960X CPU
> 
> EVGA SR-2 Motherboard - Intel Xeon X5680 CPU's
> 
> 
> 
> Gigabyte z68x UD4 Motherboard - Intel i7 2700K CPU


Where did you get the chrome mounting screws?


----------



## bittbull187

i would like to join


----------



## Trogdor

Are the Intel and AMD blocks the same?

Could someone buy an Intel block and use and AMD mount with the same effect as having an AMD block?


----------



## Blacksetter

Seems like quite a few people are running the aluminum clamping plate as opposed to the plexi. A much more secure and positive method to apply pressure, IMHO.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> Just a question
> Completed my loop with the rx360 rad, raystorm amd cpu block and a d5vario pump and top, with xspc single bay res. What is the optimal speed, temperature wise for the pump as it has 5 settings. It was set to number 2 when arrived.
> Thanks in advance


One of my loops runs on an RS360 and a D5 pump on setting 2 with a bay res and a Raystorm, and my temps are incredibly low. At 23.3C ambient, even at 100% load on an OC'd 3.4GHz CPU that is running 4.8GHz, all 4 cores are less than 60C. It is virtually silent.

On one of my loops, I run 3 RX360's and a pair of D5 pumps on setting 3 with an EK-Dual Top with an integrated reservoir. The noise is barely noticeable. Temps very low (about 70C) after 24 hours of folding on 2 GPU's and a CPU (on an older EK Supreme HF block).


----------



## mandrix

You guys talking about the hot 3770Ks.....one of mine has run hot from day one when OC. Even under water it will hit the 90's, so yeah some of them just suck.


----------



## gdesmo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> You guys talking about the hot 3770Ks.....one of mine has run hot from day one when OC. Even under water it will hit the 90's, so yeah some of them just suck.


I would suggest you re-apply the Tim between block and IHS, use a good paste such as MX4.


----------



## feniks

ok. high temps on 3770K cpu with my raystorm which was formelry used with 2600K (since march) and XSPC tubing, then Primochill Primoflex tubing and Feser tubing. it's dirty











Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I have 3 "weapons" at my disposal (dish soap + hot tap water, lemon juice ad white vinegar)

already tried brushing it under hot tap water and dish soap (no luck).
now soaking the block in pure (yellow) lemon juice. the last resort is white vinegar, should I boil it?

I need to clean it up tonight and put back together ...


----------



## gdesmo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> ok. high temps on 3770K cpu with my raystorm which was formelry used with 2600K (since march) and XSPC tubing, then Primochill Primoflex tubing and Feser tubing. it's dirty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> I have 3 "weapons" at my disposal (dish soap + hot tap water, lemon juice ad white vinegar)
> already tried brushing it under hot tap water and dish soap (no luck).
> now soaking the block in pure (yellow) lemon juice. the last resort is white vinegar, should I boil it?
> I need to clean it up tonight and put back together ...


Just under boiling will be fine, 1/2 - 1 hour and use 4th tool. Girlfriends toothbrush works well, just don`t get caught.


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdesmo*
> 
> Just under boiling will be fine, 1/2 - 1 hour and use 4th tool. Girlfriends toothbrush works well, just don`t get caught.


LOL! haven't used magical toothbrush of my GF/wife







... but I had a spare one









Boiled it in a solution of lemon juice (2 lemons used) and white vinegar, for around 15-30 mins, then submerged in cold vinegar and finally flushed it under hot tap water and brushed it with liquid soap and a brush ... on the end flushed it with distilled water.

I think it's been cleaned well enough, perhaps it doesn't look perfect but it's clean anyways









Uploaded with ImageShack.us

... not that it helped the CPU temperatures at all LOL! my CPU runs hot and that is it. need to delid it...


----------



## Blaze0303

Yay me!


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaze0303*
> 
> Yay me!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## black7hought




----------



## black7hought




----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaze0303*
> 
> Yay me!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! You'll get the itch to put your card underwater too.


----------



## Blaze0303

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice! You'll get the itch to put your card underwater too.


Oh trust me, i'm buying the waterblock soon.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdesmo*
> 
> I would suggest you re-apply the Tim between block and IHS, use a good paste such as MX4.


Sorry I missed your post, haven't checked this thread in a while. I know how to apply TIM, and I use MX-4. I have two 3770K's running on identical boards, in fact both cpu's have been on the same custom water cooling setup on the same motherboard and the one cpu always runs hotter.
I've got it down to 92c running 8 fft's in Prime 95, compared to the other 3770K running in high 70's under same conditions.

It's just a fact that Intel screwed up on some of these and there isn't much to be done about it. I'm hoping haswell won't be made using the same TIM process or I'll skip it.


----------



## nyk20z3

Excuse the bare ram it was for testing purposes -


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Excuse the bare ram it was for testing purposes -
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! What kind of tube are you using? It looks like PrimoChill?


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice! What kind of tube are you using? It looks like PrimoChill?


TY and Feser Acid UV Green.


----------



## captvizcenzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Excuse the bare ram it was for testing purposes -


Very nice. I love the fat tubes


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captvizcenzo*
> 
> Very nice. I love the fat tubes


Pause Pause lol


----------



## Blaze0303

Well, I ordered my XSPC Raystorm kit on the 12th and I still have not received it. I guess frozencpu got me too.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaze0303*
> 
> Well, I ordered my XSPC Raystorm kit on the 12th and I still have not received it. I guess frozencpu got me too.


Are you tracking your package? I know your in Japan, so maybe it's normal for it to take this long?? Unless you got it shipped with-in a certain amount of days?


----------



## Hooded

I got mine from Daz Mode


----------



## Blaze0303

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Are you tracking your package? I know your in Japan, so maybe it's normal for it to take this long?? Unless you got it shipped with-in a certain amount of days?


It's not normal at all, I ordered a ton of stuff that day, the same way, and I received all of them a while ago.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaze0303*
> 
> It's not normal at all, I ordered a ton of stuff that day, the same way, and I received all of them a while ago.


Contact those fools and see what the deal is? Contact Geoff at, [email protected] He's helped me out on other issues and he's fairly quick with the replies.


----------



## Blaze0303

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Contact those fools and see what the deal is? Contact Geoff at, [email protected] He's helped me out on other issues and he's fairly quick with the replies.


I already have and got the responce that "We're are looking into it." I'm incredibly annoyed because this whole thing put my build log on hold.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaze0303*
> 
> I already have and got the responce that "We're are looking into it." I'm incredibly annoyed because this whole thing put my build log on hold.


Any luck yet?


----------



## Blaze0303

Nope nothing yet


----------



## craeke

i have the raystorm kit on my amd pc
and the screws are
first the spring,than metal wacher and than the plastic one

sorry for the bad english


----------



## adi518

After not being able to get an EK Supreme block (the nice acrylic one with the old design) and also realizing I'll need to go with CSQ for the gpu if I get CSQ for the cpu, I figured I'll go for XSPC and got a Raystorm from PPCS. It's really one of the most aesthetically pleasing blocks I've ever seen. 50$ seemed like a good deal, although slightly later, Ncix had put it for 40$ but NBD.. can't wait !









I'm now on the hunt for their old style "Razer" 680 block which also seems great. Additionally, I saw XSPC is offering an aluminum piece to replace the default acrylic piece, I think it could help match it even better with the gpu block (since it's cover is silver).


----------



## everlast4291987

i would like to be added to the list


----------



## Hooded

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> After not being able to get an EK Supreme block (the nice acrylic one with the old design) and also realizing I'll need to go with CSQ for the gpu if I get CSQ for the cpu, I figured I'll go for XSPC and got a Raystorm from PPCS. It's really one of the most aesthetically pleasing blocks I've ever seen. 50$ seemed like a good deal, although slightly later, Ncix had put it for 40$ but NBD.. can't wait !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm now on the hunt for their old style "Razer" 680 block which also seems great. Additionally, I saw XSPC is offering an aluminum piece to replace the default acrylic piece, I think it could help match it even better with the gpu block (since it's cover is silver).


Here is a dam good deal on the XSPC Razor 680

http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/razor_gtx680_full_cover_block/


----------



## adi518

Dazmode, for some stupid reason don't have my country listed in their shipping options (When I asked Daz, he sent in some idiotic answer but nvm) so I can't order from him. Also. there were 2 blocks like this on ebay, mint condition but the guy refused to sell it to me. He sold them for 40$ each.


----------



## Hukkel

I bought a Raystorm from a friend. But he lost 1 screw to fit the cpu block.
I sent XSPC multiple emails and they NEVER react. Soooooo annoying.

I just need 1 mounting screw


----------



## XViper2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooded*
> 
> Here is a dam good deal on the XSPC Razor 680
> http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/razor_gtx680_full_cover_block/


That's a great price. Is it as good as the new one that came out? I got their newer style full cover block.

I also have a Raystorm CPU block. I really dislike the springs. It's such a pain in the ass to get on. I actually gave up and just used it without them.


----------



## Blacksetter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XViper2*
> 
> That's a great price. Is it as good as the new one that came out? I got their newer style full cover block.
> I also have a Raystorm CPU block. I really dislike the springs. It's such a pain in the ass to get on. I actually gave up and just used it without them.


That's exactly what I did!

I used neoprene washers beneath the steel washers for a little bit of give. I believe I got a better and more even mount without using the springs.
I like the Raystorm block alot, but to be perfectly honest, the springs are not high quality. If they are fully compressed just _one_ time, they lose twenty percent of their length. That should not happen with a high quality coil spring..


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blacksetter*
> 
> That's exactly what I did!
> I used neoprene washers beneath the steel washers for a little bit of give. I believe I got a better and more even mount without using the springs.
> I like the Raystorm block alot, but to be perfectly honest, the springs are not high quality. If they are fully compressed just _one_ time, they lose twenty percent of their length. That should not happen with a high quality coil spring..


Hmm.. accidentally saw your comment and it's actually very relevant to me as I'm just before installing my new Raystorm. Do you have a picture of yours assembled the way you said?


----------



## rmcknight36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hukkel*
> 
> I bought a Raystorm from a friend. But he lost 1 screw to fit the cpu block.
> I sent XSPC multiple emails and they NEVER react. Soooooo annoying.
> I just need 1 mounting screw


I have a few extra from when i had the rasa and switched to the raystorm pm and we can take care of that missing screw


----------



## Blacksetter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Hmm.. accidentally saw your comment and it's actually very relevant to me as I'm just before installing my new Raystorm. Do you have a picture of yours assembled the way you said?


Sorry I'm so late... I just noticed your post.

Here's a photo of the Raystorm right after installation. I don't think it shows the area where the springs would be very well. The installation went much more efficiently than trying to fight against spring pressure to get the studs mounted. Without the springs, the block could be held flat to the CPU while the studs are tightened down completely, then the secondary thumb nuts are just brought up to touch the pressure plate, and finally pressure applied evenly in a criss-cross pattern. I was very confident of a good mount with this process... So much so that I would not even think of using the springs for a re-mount.


----------



## adi518

I've been thinking about this and I think removing the springs might be a wrong idea. The springs help adjusting the pressure when the block gets hot and expands/contracts. If you remove the springs you're potentially causing uber stress on the block when it's heated up. If you notice, every heatsink, whether it's cpu or gpu, has springs exactly for the reason of expanding/contracting. Ultimately, it may be much easier to install it without them but it's certainly not the logic way.


----------



## feniks

those springs are stiff only the first time during initial install. every time afterwards it's very easy to install mounts and it's also not a problem to tighten them down for tight fit. I wouldn't remove them.


----------



## adi518

Yes, that's correct. It's the nature of springs to dial in after some usage. There's nothing wrong with that.


----------



## mandrix

Does anyone know if the Raystorm copper block is the same dimensions as the regular Raystorm? I'm thinking of putting my copper block in the retainer with the led fittings.
I think I can get enough pressure on the block with the standard assembly. I don't really want to tear down two rigs to test my idea not knowing if it will fit, however.


----------



## Blaze0303

Finally recieved mine and installed it last night! Pics are in my build log.


----------



## Draven

Well it seems that some are adding themselves to the list but with 40 pages in this thread the list is a little small, at least people can add themselves when they want, it's good to see that this club is getting bigger.


----------



## mandrix

Dead link in first post. Martin finally took his site down.


----------



## DueVendetta

Got it. Loving it.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I'd say PrimoChill. I've had clear running im my wife's rig for about a year and it still looks good.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tabinhu*
> 
> Do not get primochill, get tygoon. Primochill is having alot of plasticizer problems
> Sent from my GT-I9070 using Tapatalk 2


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aeonoscence*
> 
> *tygon.
> primochill tubing is good. there are no problems with it.
> can i join the club...i have a red raystorm


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> No Primochill has all kinds of problems and i have experienced it first hand.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aeonoscence*
> 
> Ive been using primochill for a year and ive only gotten kinking.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> You have been lucky sir i had known Plasticizer issues with both there clear and UV green tubing but i am glad you didn't go through the same thing.


Thank guys. I will get Tygon tubing.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Thank guys. I will get Tygon tubing.


Hey i just come to stop you your purchase . DO NOT BUY TYGON. if you need a tygon product get a Durelene Tubing made by Saint Gobain.

Durelene Tubing From SidewindersComputers if you have any question just visit this post and folllow the Thread for more info
=]░▒▓███ Plasticizer Problems / Discussion / Gallery | skyn3t's post #796 ███▓▒░[=-


----------



## kizwan

Thanks. I'll check out that thread.

EDIT: BTW, a reseller recommend XSPC premium tubing. Are they good or bad?


----------



## Draven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Thanks. I'll check out that thread.
> EDIT: BTW, a reseller recommend XSPC premium tubing. Are they good or bad?


I'm not sure but I am using The Feser Company tube and I like it, it's uv reactive but I haven't got the uv lighting yet.


----------



## Overclocker.Monster

I've seen like 3 versions of the RAYSTORM

The cooper one: is it better to have it without cooper the water block so we would have better durability cuz will it likely oxidize ability of this mineral?
The aluminium

this 3:

raystorm 1

raystorm 2

raystorm 3

Which option did you consider that performs better? I don't know the difference apart from the price and how do they perform but I have read a few comparisons here at the forum about the RAYSTORM and the HEATKILLER revision C. And people confirm that RAYSTORM performs better cuz its newer, but WHICH of the raystorms parforms better any?


----------



## feniks

get either copper one if it fits your water blocks looks (e.g. nicely matching Heatkiller or Aqua gpu blocks) or the black acetal top if your color theme is blackish (e.g. paired with XSPC Razor gpu blocks). I personally have the black one with acetal top and it's awesome with LED lights!









anything that has aluminum is a BIG no no, since you can't mix it with copper in the loop or serious galvanic corrosion will occur, stay away if other blocks and rads contain copper (most do).


----------



## Overclocker.Monster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> get either copper one if it fits your water blocks looks (e.g. nicely matching Heatkiller or Aqua gpu blocks) or the black acetal top if your color theme is blackish (e.g. paired with XSPC Razor gpu blocks). I personally have the black one with acetal top and it's awesome with LED lights!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anything that has aluminum is a BIG no no, since you can't mix it with copper in the loop or serious galvanic corrosion will occur, stay away if other blocks and rads contain copper (most do).


I dont get about the mixture that you mention that sounds like prohibited...

And about the cooper performance and the aluminium one is it a difference or its not any lack of between them?


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overclocker.Monster*
> 
> I dont get about the mixture that you mention that sounds like prohibited...
> And about the cooper performance and the aluminium one is it a difference or its not any lack of between them?


here's about galvanic corrosion, read it:
http://engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm

as per aluminum raystorm, I have never seen one except that link you posted, but I don't understand Italian. I've seen chrome raystorm, not aluminum here in US. perhaps they just called it "aluminum" and it was chromium? idk.

either way, aluminum and copper is a bad idea, especially if there is a silver kill coil in the loop.


----------



## EnticingSausage

The mounting plate is aluminium, the actual block is acetal/copper.


----------



## coolmiester

A couple of dual CPU systems we had on show at Insomnia47 LAN at the weekend just gone using Raystorm Blocks


----------



## SandShark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> A couple of dual CPU systems we had on show at Insomnia47 LAN at the weekend just gone using Raystorm Blocks


Wow Coolmiester, they look amazing!









May I ask what tubing and fluid/dye were used on the RED system?


----------



## GEARjmr

Hi ya folks.....just joined the club here and have a question concerning the XSPX GTX water block in an SLI setup on a Sabertooth P67 mobo.



AS you can see from the pic I've gone with a XSPC set up and now its time to SLI with another GTX 670. Does anyone have experience installing SLI on this mobo? Does the XSPC Flow Bridge work on the spacing between the 2 waterblocks? If not I guess I could go with a solid connector between the 2. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Overclocker.Monster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> here's about galvanic corrosion, read it:
> http://engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm
> as per aluminum raystorm, I have never seen one except that link you posted, but I don't understand Italian. I've seen chrome raystorm, not aluminum here in US. perhaps they just called it "aluminum" and it was chromium? idk.
> either way, aluminum and copper is a bad idea, especially if there is a silver kill coil in the loop.


Nice thx for the quoute Feniks









But if copper and aluminum are bad ideas which one is lefting?









Thanks for the link


----------



## SandShark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overclocker.Monster*
> 
> Nice thx for the quoute Feniks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if copper and aluminum are bad ideas which one is lefting?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the link


I think there is a misunderstanding Monster and Feniks. As EnticingSausage briefly mentioned, the aluminum is the *OUTSIDE piece* that the screws go through to hold down the block - instead of the acrylic piece with LED holes. It is *not inside the block* and never touches any water. It is merely cosmetic. So, no need to worry about corrosion or any internal problems in that regard.

This is the acrylic piece:



This is the optional aluminum bracket (without black cover):



Mounted on block (with black cover):



They also make a "Black Edition":

 

Does this answer your question?


----------



## socketus

Nice layout of the components SandShark


----------



## coolmiester

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SandShark*
> 
> Wow Coolmiester, they look amazing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May I ask what tubing and fluid/dye were used on the RED system?


Cheers SandShark - the hose is Masterkleer Hi-Flex 7/16" ID - 5/8" OD over 1/2" Bitspower barbs and the liquid is a home made Aurora Red which i've been testing for a while


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SandShark*
> 
> I think there is a misunderstanding Monster and Feniks. As EnticingSausage briefly mentioned, the aluminum is the *OUTSIDE piece* that the screws go through to hold down the block - instead of the acrylic piece with LED holes. It is *not inside the block* and never touches any water. It is merely cosmetic. So, no need to worry about corrosion or any internal problems in that regard.
> This is the acrylic piece:
> 
> This is the optional aluminum bracket (without black cover):
> 
> Mounted on block (with black cover):
> 
> They also make a "Black Edition":
> 
> Does this answer your question?





I got the aluminum one because the black one wasn't sold yet. I also had to paint it black because I didn't have the cover as I was using the block from my old AMD build. The black bracket does look good with the metal top.


----------



## coolmiester

This is a system with Raystorm the Intel Aluminium Bracket fitted


----------



## mironccr345

^^ Mine would have looked like that if I had the metal black plate to go over it. But instead I painted the Aluminum black to match the block.


----------



## Overclocker.Monster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SandShark*
> 
> I think there is a misunderstanding Monster and Feniks. As EnticingSausage briefly mentioned, the aluminum is the *OUTSIDE piece* that the screws go through to hold down the block - instead of the acrylic piece with LED holes. It is *not inside the block* and never touches any water. It is merely cosmetic. So, no need to worry about corrosion or any internal problems in that regard.
> This is the acrylic piece:
> 
> This is the optional aluminum bracket (without black cover):
> 
> Mounted on block (with black cover):
> 
> They also make a "Black Edition":
> 
> Does this answer your question?


Yes thanks now its much better


----------



## She loved E

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> This is a system with Raystorm the Intel Aluminium Bracket fitted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> ^^ Mine would have looked like that if I had the metal black plate to go over it. But instead I painted the Aluminum black to match the block.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


mmmhhh those both look so yummy. all-black is super stealth (makes all that blue pop).

just completed my build which is up for MOTM this month so *please vote* if you haven't already!







you can see my Raystorm copper peeking out of the bottom left of this pic...



Full build log: Compact Splash










SLE


----------



## JA90

I just have a question for all of you.. How big is the space between holes on 1/2" Raystorm??
Or, can I put two of these rotary fittings, with these normal fittings on it??
Left one should go at ~135° (up-left), an the other on ~0°(right), when the block is in the system.


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SandShark*
> 
> I think there is a misunderstanding Monster and Feniks. As EnticingSausage briefly mentioned, the aluminum is the *OUTSIDE piece* that the screws go through to hold down the block - instead of the acrylic piece with LED holes. It is *not inside the block* and never touches any water. It is merely cosmetic. So, no need to worry about corrosion or any internal problems in that regard.
> This is the acrylic piece:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the optional aluminum bracket (without black cover):
> 
> Mounted on block (with black cover):
> 
> They also make a "Black Edition":
> 
> 
> 
> Does this answer your question?


LOL, probably this. if aluminum referred to the mounting bracket (outside) only then it's all fine!








as I said, I didn't understand Italian descriptions, thought they had some other model or something and got confused by the Chromium top (makes contact with water) on new Raystrom models, sorry









mine is copper bottom, acetal (black) top and acrylic bracket with aluminum insert


----------



## Bart

I'm leak testing my custom Raystorm kit right now.







Here's some free advertising for XSPC, courtesy of some twit who can't use a camera properly:


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overclocker.Monster*
> 
> Yes thanks now its much better


The black edition is new to me. I think I'll actually buy it to try.


----------



## snef

another in the club

now a white edition
i painted the alu plate to fit my theme


----------



## adi518

What tubing did you use Snef?


----------



## snef

Primochill Advanced LRT

I used it for 2 weeks now

waiting if I will have plastizer/clouding


----------



## Clockwerk

Quick question about performance with this block. I have had it for a few months and never really had temp issues while gaming. I started folding again this month and after a few hours the cpu temp climbed to 57-58 degrees. This seems high to me. Cpu is an i5-2500k at 5.1 w/ 1.48vcore (I know kinda high but thats what it took to get over 5). Radiator is an 480mm alphacool ut60. GPU is under water as well and never gets above 33 degrees while folding on it and it is overclocked as far as I could take it. Based on the raditor overkill I was expecting better temps. Does this temp seem right for the vcore/overclock I have going or does it seem high to anybody other than me? Thanks


----------



## snef

57-58 degre for a 2500k OC at 5.1 @ 1.48 is a really good temp in my opinion
a really good temp if its a full load

what is your ambient temp and 57-58 is with cpu at 100% load or idle?

but i think 1.48v for a 24/7 overclock is to high, again only my opinion


----------



## Clockwerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 57-58 degre for a 2500k OC at 5.1 @ 1.48 is a really good temp in my opinion
> a really good temp if its a full load
> what is your ambient temp and 57-58 is with cpu at 100% load or idle?
> but i think 1.48v for a 24/7 overclock is to high, again only my opinion


I believe 1.5 vcore is the breaking point for degredaing a chip on sandy bridge (could be wrong) but I usually dont run that 24/7. Only foldathons and benching. I dial it back to 4.6 and 1.38 vcore for day to day stuff. Ambient is roughly 22 degrees give or take a 1 or so in either direction. I feel like a delta of ~35 is a bit much given rad size. Was wondering if I just had a bad mount, but will try to remount after foldathon is done.


----------



## feniks

Your water loop temperatures is not reaching 60C ... so not much of a delta per se here







I bet your water loop temps is still well under 40C at most under full load. it's pretty normal that water cooling can't transfer all the heat generated by CPU through water up to rads for dissipation (which is also limited in a given time period).
It could also be dust in rads lowering the heat dissipation in general. or some dirt inside cooling block limiting the water flow around fins.

The issue could be related also to TIM under cooling block going bad (hardened, loosing properties, etc.) ... I noticed in past that MX-2 paste was degrading after roughly 3 months and calling for replacement. could be that is the case?

you should re-run the same exact stress tester (using same settings) as you used in past to compare CPU temps directly, given the ambient is same and all clocks and hardware is same as well.

Personally I think your temps are great







given the vcore being used, I'd call it normal if not great


----------



## Clockwerk

I know the vcore is high but I kinda lost the chip lottery with this guy. After 4.6 it just took an insane amount of voltage to get it stable. I'm also curious if its just a bad oc job by me (definately in the realm of possibility) and there are some settings I can play with to be able to drop voltage and still be stable. Looking in the 5ghz OC club there are some guys hitting 5 hanging around 1.4 vcore. I think a few are even a little lower than 1.4.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Primochill Advanced LRT
> I used it for 2 weeks now
> waiting if I will have plastizer/clouding


Cool.









Looks like you also used wide stubby Bitspower barbs?


----------



## jeffblute

upgrading my rig to the RX 360 D5 Raystorm kit sometime to day. Going to be rocking two RX360s soon


----------



## WarChild

Hi guys, i have a question regarding the Raystorm.

I am currently in the midst of building my loop and i was wondering if there will be any performance/temperature issues if i use the OUT as the input and the IN as the output??

My tube from the rad is very hard to route to the IN port of the Raystorm, please advise. Thanks.


----------



## coolmiester

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarChild*
> 
> Hi guys, i have a question regarding the Raystorm.
> I am currently in the midst of building my loop and i was wondering if there will be any performance/temperature issues if i use the OUT as the input and the IN as the output??
> My tube from the rad is very hard to route to the IN port of the Raystorm, please advise. Thanks.


Why not just simply rotate the block around so the inlet /outlet are in the correct position


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Why not just simply rotate the block around so the inlet /outlet are in the correct position


+1!


----------



## audioholic

Anyone know where I can snag a backplate and the screws with the springs? I seemed to have misplaced mine in a recent move. Or is it best to go directly to XSPC?
Also has anyone done a purple raystorm? I just ordered my purple LEDs, should be here next week.








Edit: found it online. ?thanks!


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarChild*
> 
> Hi guys, i have a question regarding the Raystorm.
> I am currently in the midst of building my loop and i was wondering if there will be any performance/temperature issues if i use the OUT as the input and the IN as the output??
> My tube from the rad is very hard to route to the IN port of the Raystorm, please advise. Thanks.


Yes there will be a performance loss by connecting the flow of the block backwards, the block is designed specifically so the water goes from the center out, I would switch the block around like previously advised.


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Getting ready to reflow the IX with my new raystorm block... Also, I need a shop to work on my comp LOL


----------



## Ghost12

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-070-XS&groupid=962&catid=1519&subcat=

I have this cpu block, its not six months old yet and the led that goes into the block has started blinking, going dark then light. Anyone know where to get replacements or an alternative

Thanks


----------



## bittbull187

I would just solder new led in place but that's just me 80 cents at RadioShack


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bittbull187*
> 
> I would just solder new led in place but that's just me 80 cents at RadioShack


Ok thanks will look into that.


----------



## bittbull187

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> Ok thanks will look into that.


yea its really easy, just dont drink to much coffee shaky hands = bad solder job hahah dont ask how i know...


----------



## xNiNELiVES

I know I'm going to be argued/yelled at for this but here it goes: Why would you guys buy this CPU block when Koolance's CPU-380 cools the best on the market, including the XSPC Raystorm?


----------



## bittbull187

For me I like the look of my ray, and I'm very happy with cooling. This is also my first block so I'm sure I will have others


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bittbull187*
> 
> For me I like the look of my ray, and I'm very happy with cooling. This is also my first block so I'm sure I will have others


This. It performs great and looks the business.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> This. It performs great and looks the business.


Ok whatever floats your boat


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bittbull187*
> 
> I would just solder new led in place but that's just me 80 cents at RadioShack


good to know radioshack caries them








recently i broke off one LED from Razor block which I used in Raystorm instead for more light.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bittbull187*
> 
> yea its really easy, just dont drink to much coffee shaky hands = bad solder job hahah dont ask how i know...


yeah true ha ha! was soldering recently water temperature sensor to my XSPC LCD pcb ... man shaky hands don't help LOL!


----------



## PinzaC55

I have just ordered the Chrome Raystorm, photos to follow.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> I know I'm going to be argued/yelled at for this but here it goes: Why would you guys buy this CPU block when Koolance's CPU-380 cools the best on the market, including the XSPC Raystorm?


um ... coz the Koolance just came out ... ? Raystorm has been out for over a year or more. Coz there's very little difference in the numbers, not detectable but by tool measurement .....

What I'm not typing is that we are not brandaholics, for we surely are that !


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> um ... coz the Koolance just came out ... ? Raystorm has been out for over a year or more. Coz there's very little difference in the numbers, not detectable but by tool measurement .....
> What I'm not typing is that we are not brandaholics, for we surely are that !


The CPU 370 by koolance was better while the ray storm was out.


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> The CPU 370 by koolance was better while the ray storm was out.


People buy and stick with brands, Why do people wear nikes when other shoes perform just as well and sometimes better?

Many people got into water cooling (Myself included) by the XSPC kits because they had everything you needed to watercool, but were still built from custom loop parts. XSPC continued to get my business because I know the quality is on par with the highest performing blocks out, so why switch?


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr*
> 
> People buy and stick with brands, Why do people wear nikes when other shoes perform just as well and sometimes better?
> Many people got into water cooling (Myself included) by the XSPC kits because they had everything you needed to watercool, but were still built from custom loop parts. XSPC continued to get my business because I know the quality is on par with the highest performing blocks out, so why switch?


Alright then, thanks for the explanation.


----------



## -retaliation-

Finally got my raystorm installed, she's purring along nicely at 4.8GHz at 1.3v, 30C idle 53C under load


----------



## bittbull187

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-retaliation-*
> 
> Finally got my raystorm installed, she's purring along nicely at 4.8GHz at 1.3v, 30C idle 53C under load


Pic or it didn't happen


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> The CPU 370 by koolance was better while the ray storm was out.


well, wait a minute ... first its the 380 and now its the 370 ? and "while the raystorm was out" ? isn't it still out ?
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Just j/k - I wish I had another w/c build to put the koolance hardware into it - they're my 2nd favorite in fittings - and I likes their blocks, their name, their website ... dangit !! Now I really do want a Koolance build !!


----------



## -retaliation-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bittbull187*
> 
> Pic or it didn't happen


What do you guys usually use for proof? Just a screenshot of a completed burn test with CPU z up?


----------



## snef

Hi

can i join the club??

just finish my loop 10 minutes ago, for now this is the results, more update still to come


----------



## gdesmo

Looks great snef ! You will be added when the thread owner logs in and sees the post i`m sure, hope you had a good New Years.


----------



## PinzaC55

Quote:


> Hi
> 
> can i join the club??
> 
> just finish my loop 10 minutes ago, for now this is the results, more update still to come


My god. Can I come and worship your rig?


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> well, wait a minute ... first its the 380 and now its the 370 ? and "while the raystorm was out" ? isn't it still out ?
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> .
> Just j/k - I wish I had another w/c build to put the koolance hardware into it - they're my 2nd favorite in fittings - and I likes their blocks, their name, their website ... dangit !! Now I really do want a Koolance build !!


If you were to create a koolance build what parts would you use? I would have chosen koolance fitting but they don't manufacture 90 and 45 degree 1/2 3/4" fittings. As for the GPU block I have a non reference board so I can't use a koolance 680 block either.


----------



## bittbull187

Maybe start a koolance block thread? Hehehe


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bittbull187*
> 
> Maybe start a koolance block thread? Hehehe


Isn't there already one? If not maybe I'd make one. You should though, I'm on vacation!


----------



## bittbull187

O snap I was just poking fun, I do not have the time in to manage a thread of that magnitude.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bittbull187*
> 
> O snap I was just poking fun, I do not have the time in to manage a thread of that magnitude.


Ok


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi
> can i join the club??
> just finish my loop 10 minutes ago, for now this is the results, more update still to come
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow ! final build ? you have a pedestal now, I'm guessing that's where the Corsair fans & rads went. Your mobo is now an 1155 Maximus V Formula, you switched to a Raystorm block for cpu and ram.
And no more 3rd vid card....
How'd you do that front tinted window on the pedestal ? Great looking build as always


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Wow ! final build ? you have a pedestal now, I'm guessing that's where the Corsair fans & rads went. Your mobo is now an 1155 Maximus V Formula, you switched to a Raystorm block for cpu and ram.
> And no more 3rd vid card....
> How'd you do that front tinted window on the pedestal ? Great looking build as always


Thanks

Waterooling build is a never ending story:thumb:

Yes both ex360 are in push and pull config in pedestal

The front windows in pedestal is a XSPC twin D5 dual bay reservoir, i just remove the front plate
With 2 red led and blood red coolant, the effect is really good


----------



## bittbull187

Very nice indeed


----------



## Draven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi
> can i join the club??
> just finish my loop 10 minutes ago, for now this is the results, more update still to come


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdesmo*
> 
> Looks great snef ! You will be added when the thread owner logs in and sees the post i`m sure, hope you had a good New Years.


As snef found out lol if you have an XSPC Raystorm cpu waterblock you can add yourself in the OP by clicking the link and filling out the form I made for the club and then you just added yourself







btw snef AWESOME RIG!!!!!


----------



## -retaliation-

Yeah snef that beast makes me weak in the knees, I have a serious weakness for acrylic and red if I can teach it to cook bacon I might just marry it


----------



## Plundera

Gents!

I have a Raystorm query: I have a XSPC RX360, dual bay D5, Raystorm, XSPC 7970 block and Koolance MVR40 in my loop (other details in sig). I've been concerned the delta's on the CPU temperatures are abnormal.

The Raystorm has been remounted a few times. I've used AS5. Currently using Liquid Ultra on the TIM. No real difference between AS5 and Ultra although I didn't take detailed data on the AS5 runs. The CPU is NOT delidded...yet

My current overclock is a rather weak but rock solid (10 hours IBT) 4500mhz using vcore 1.3v, PLL 1.8, LLC ultra high (on an ASUS Z77 Sabertooth). After 50 IBT maximum runs the delta over water temp is around 50-52c. The nominal temps were 84c CPU package, 33c water, and ~28c radiator intake. D5 pump speed is 3, GPU idle. I haven't fully optimised the vcore,pll et al yet thus the current settings are likely conservative.

I noted Bundymania had a 40c delta for a RASA on a i7 920 @4ghz running at 1.4v (http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1524206). Given other anecdotal reports of lower temps with similar XSPC setups I just wanted to ask directly if the above seems on the high side? I feel a delta of ~40c 'feels' more appropriate with this setup. If so, question then is why.

Thanks


----------



## Juggalo23451

The 3770K produces alot of heat when you start to overclock and add voltage to it.
I like to keep temps below 80 on the cores.


----------



## PinzaC55

I've just bought a Raystorm Chrome waterblock and it looks great but I was just wondering - is it possible to get chrome screws for it? And if I wanted - if - to add LEDs to it is it possible to get the acrylic surround from the normal Raystorm? Finally, since I have a lot of surplus fittings do Raystorm owners generally keep these or sell them?


----------



## socketus

You can buy the replacment mounting kit - no leds, but the acrylic piece is there

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17620/ex-blc-1380/XSPC_Replacement_Mounting_Kit_-_Raystorm_CPU_Block_-_Intel.html

or you can buy the black mounting plate

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16258/ex-blc-1136/XSPC_Aluminum_Black_Edition_Mounting_Bracket_-_Intel_Raystorm_CPU_Block.html#blank


----------



## feniks

hmm, a question. I scratched a bit the cooling surface of my Raystorm when removing the CoolLaboratory Liquid Ultra from it using scratch pad (kinda like scotch brite or something). scratches are not deep, but I think I should gently sand it with something to restore the mirror finish. any ideas what grit to use? 1500, 2000?


----------



## -retaliation-

highest possible for best results, but a polishing paste and microfiber cloth I would assume would work best although never tried it myself, honestly I know from bodywork on cars, sandpaper is probably the wrong way to go it wont be anywhere near the mirror finish it comes with, it'll micro score the whole block, id go with paste then rinse with warm distilled maybe a little vinegar or ketchup then rinse to be sure


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Hey yall, I have a question about the benefits of adding an additional rad.

Currently, I'm running an XSPC Raystorm EX240 Kit with a D5 vario pump. Both my mildly overclocked I5 2500k which is at 4.3ghz @ 1.28v and my Sapphire HD7970 O/C to 1200/1600 @ 1.250 are being cooled by the EX240 rad. The EX240 has two Scythe GT AP15 in push configuration. My temps during BF3 other demanding games such as FC3 (which run at 100% because I don't enable vsync) hit 43-46c on my GPU while my CPU hovers around 49-53c. Mind you the ambient temp of the house ranges from 22-26c depending on the season.

Given all of this information, would adding an additional 120mm or 240mm EX radiator be beneficial in any meaningful way? Are my temps pretty decent as they are right now? Any insights would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## PinzaC55

Being as FC3 is one of the most demanding games there are I would personally say your temps are fine.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stuup1dmofo*
> 
> Hey yall, I have a question about the benefits of adding an additional rad.
> Currently, I'm running an XSPC Raystorm EX240 Kit with a D5 vario pump. Both my mildly overclocked I5 2500k which is at 4.3ghz @ 1.28v and my Sapphire HD7970 O/C to 1200/1600 @ 1.250 are being cooled by the EX240 rad. The EX240 has two Scythe GT AP15 in push configuration. My temps during BF3 other demanding games such as FC3 (which run at 100% because I don't enable vsync) hit 43-46c on my GPU while my CPU hovers around 49-53c. Mind you the ambient temp of the house ranges from 22-26c depending on the season.
> Given all of this information, would adding an additional 120mm or 240mm EX radiator be beneficial in any meaningful way? Are my temps pretty decent as they are right now? Any insights would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


Those temps sounds good to me, very good actually. With both components OCed, and considering you're only doing push on a single 240 rad with a decent ambient temperature, those temps are excellent.


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-retaliation-*
> 
> highest possible for best results, but a polishing paste and microfiber cloth I would assume would work best although never tried it myself, honestly I know from bodywork on cars, sandpaper is probably the wrong way to go it wont be anywhere near the mirror finish it comes with, it'll micro score the whole block, id go with paste then rinse with warm distilled maybe a little vinegar or ketchup then rinse to be sure


thanks!

I will pass on sand paper then and try buffing it out with something when I break the loop open next time (need to re-TIM the CPu anyways, perhaps will upgrade one of rads to something better too at same time).
will check for Brasso or something similar (copper/brass polishing paste) and try buffing it with micrfiber cloth, then cleaning/rinsing it, makes sense to me.


----------



## PinzaC55

Can I join the Club? Fired her up for the first time and CPU temp on idle is down by 5 degrees C.


----------



## bittbull187

Ooo nice are those ripsaws?


----------



## PinzaC55

Yes Ripjaws X 2133 32Gb (8 x 4). Looks quite nice with the red coolant - its Mayhems UV reactive but I don't have any UV lights yet. Guess Specialtech will soon have more of my money


----------



## Draven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Can I join the Club? Fired her up for the first time and CPU temp on idle is down by 5 degrees C.


There is a form in the OP to fill out and it will add you to the member list.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Can I join the Club? Fired her up for the first time and CPU temp on idle is down by 5 degrees C.


That looks so nice!







What block were you using before the RayStorm?


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That looks so nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What block were you using before the RayStorm?


He came from a H100 - this is a new build. Checking out his previous posts, yah i'm bor3d


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Those temps sounds good to me, very good actually. With both components OCed, and considering you're only doing push on a single 240 rad with a decent ambient temperature, those temps are excellent.


Thanks, I figured they were decent all things considering. I wonder though how much I would benefit from adding another 120 to 240mm rad. Think my temps will drop a lot?


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stuup1dmofo*
> 
> Thanks, I figured they were decent all things considering. I wonder though how much I would benefit from adding another 120 to 240mm rad. Think my temps will drop a lot?


Honestly, I doubt it.







Your temps seem great as is. When I did all my noob research, I went with a 360 rad. I figured 120 for the CPU, 120 for the GPU, and 120 for overclocking. And my temps aren't as good as yours even though I added a 140 to the 360 later on. From what I've read, more rads is NEVER a bad thing, but I think you're in great shape as is.


----------



## PinzaC55

Heres another shot of my new baby. One unexpected effect of the Raystorm is that the chrome finish is so high that it gives a mirror image of the fittings and reflects light inside! If anybody from XSPC is reading I would still like to know whether it is possible to get the clear acetal mount to put LED's in? Chrome screws would be nice too if anyone knows where to get such things.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Heres another shot of my new baby. One unexpected effect of the Raystorm is that the chrome finish is so high that it gives a mirror image of the fittings and reflects light inside! If anybody from XSPC is reading I would still like to know whether it is possible to get the clear acetal mount to put LED's in? Chrome screws would be nice too if anyone knows where to get such things.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You might be able to use EK hardware. I've messed around with the Ek hardware to work with xspc block. If I have enough time, I'll mess with some of the hardware that I have and verify that it'll work with the RayStorm block.


----------



## audioholic

Does anyone know where to find this color of LEDs? I ordered from PPCs but those werent the right purple. I am sure this is just a photoshopped image, but any help would really be appreciated


----------



## Addiction

These look identical in color on my screen, check it out: FrozenCPU 3mm Purple LED.


----------



## audioholic

I ordered these
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_107_837&products_id=21667
And the light output is purple..but the LED itself is not if that makes sense? Purple is really hard to find
I am wanting to have my Raystorm kind of be the center of attention and really want purple like that photo.


----------



## coolmiester

Just added 96GB of Kingston Beast - bit dusty in there at present but its the first time its been opened since last year


----------



## PinzaC55

NORAD want their computer back! Awe inspiring build


----------



## davwman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Just added 96GB of Kingston Beast - bit dusty in there at present but its the first time its been opened since last year


Dear god!!! Why! Oh and simply amazing!


----------



## izajasz

Hey guys. I have noob questions about this kit (i ve bought it as my first WC) . Dont want to off top here so if You could look at http://www.overclock.net/t/1351799/question-about-xspc-raystorm-d5-rx360-kit#post_19100315 i would be gratefull.


----------



## Callist0

Just got my XSPC Raystorm kit in the mail yesterday and fully installed (pics to follow but i'm at work







). I have socket LGA1366 and used the appropriate parts, but the fit for the screws seemed REALLY tight...I was wondering if anyone else had this issue or if it's normal?

I was able to get it on, and it didn't leak and cools like crazy (43C at 4GHz highest temp seen) but I just want to make sure that I'm not going to come downstairs to a cracked mobo or something.


----------



## coolmiester

Just for the record









CoolerMaster Cosmos II
Coolermaster 1300W Hybrid PSU
Asus Z9PE-D8 WS Motherboard
Intel Xeon E5-2687W s2011 CPU's
GTX680 GPU's
Kingston HyperX Predator 32GB Memory
Kingston HyperX SSD's
XSPC EX360
XSPC EX240 Multiport x2
XSPC Raystorm CPU + GPU Blocks
XSPC Dual DDC Bay Res
DDC Pumps
Bitspower Fittings
7/16" Masterkleer Hose
Coolermaster120mm Fans


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Why two different tubing colors? Dual loop?


----------



## Bart

Love the purple XSPC blocks!


----------



## walsingham100

XSPC sell the acrylic mounting kit with the led mounts, but it still comes with black screws...

http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-Intel-Mounting-kit-for-RayStorm_33642.html


----------



## Alex132

I am getting 40'c idle (core0) and 34'c idle (core3) on my 2500k. With 64'c load (core0) and 58'c load (core3).
Is this normal, it seems quite hot to me.

CPU - i5 2500k @4.5Ghz 1.35v.

I am using the RX360 loop, X20 750lph res/pump combo and raystorm CPU block


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Just for the record
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CoolerMaster Cosmos II
> Coolermaster 1300W Hybrid PSU
> Asus Z9PE-D8 WS Motherboard
> Intel Xeon E5-2687W s2011 CPU's
> GTX680 GPU's
> Kingston HyperX Predator 32GB Memory
> Kingston HyperX SSD's
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> XSPC EX360
> XSPC EX240 Multiport x2
> XSPC Raystorm CPU + GPU Blocks
> XSPC Dual DDC Bay Res
> DDC Pumps
> Bitspower Fittings
> 7/16" Masterkleer Hose
> Coolermaster120mm Fans


Whoa!


----------



## Agent_kenshin

I just came across this club. I have had my full copper Raystorm for over 5 months now and love it. With the AMD mounting kit, it fits like a glove.


----------



## Lutfij

Here's my contribution

and build log is here

@ Agent Kenshin - very nice to see you've got a copper for that classy setup







Kudos!!
* funny I can't add the image via a URL tag with a resize of image







adding the image as is is a lil too largeI think...sorry If I've ruined this threads format


----------



## -retaliation-

@alex132
well to put it in perspective i'm running my 2500k with an ex360 and I get a spread of 29-30idle and 53-58 @load at a4.8GHz clock with 1.34V
Long story short, yes your temps are perfectly fine in fact probably on the "good" side but if you played around a bit you could probably lower your vcore
Edit: keep in mind those are my temps after a 24hr prime test


----------



## PinzaC55

I got this Alphacool screw set from C & C Central to replace the black screws on my chrome Raystorm but I cannot decide whether they are an improvement - they look right but protrude a hell of a lot further than the stock screws. What do you guys think?


----------



## Lutfij

looks just about fitting for your case - IMO


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> @ Agent Kenshin - very nice to see you've got a copper for that classy setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kudos!!
> * funny I can't add the image via a URL tag with a resize of image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> adding the image as is is a lil too largeI think...sorry If I've ruined this threads format


Thanks. 2 weeks after i bought mine, I was disappointed that they came out with the chrome version but the copper matches up with all the copper NB/SB sinks on my board perfectly


----------



## Lutfij

Yeap, Same goes for me...but not alot of copper on the board as you have.

The Aluminium hold down is much more better as it gives a better mounting pressure than the acrylic/plexi version,,,and it went with the theme of my rig.


----------



## Alex132

Might as well put these here:


----------



## mironccr345

Whoa, nice pics. What camera are you using?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Whoa, nice pics. What camera are you using?


Point and shoot, Canon SX240.


----------



## -retaliation-

very nice quality, did you get your temps sorted out?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-retaliation-*
> 
> very nice quality, did you get your temps sorted out?


Yep, had a nightmare resetting the block but in the end my temps dropped by about 5'c overall.

So now I am idling with about a delta of 2'c, and loading with a delta of 11-13'c.


----------



## audioholic

Hey guys,
Trying to mount my raystorm to the Asus i-Deluxe board. The mounting springs are really really stiff and I am about 1/2" from getting the screws into the backplate.
Any ideas on how I can fix this to mount the thing?!? On my other board it was super easy, but this is a new mounting kit.


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Trying to mount my raystorm to the Asus i-Deluxe board. The mounting springs are really really stiff and I am about 1/2" from getting the screws into the backplate.
> Any ideas on how I can fix this to mount the thing?!? On my other board it was super easy, but this is a new mounting kit.


are you sure you haven't tensioned the springs on posts before screwing the posts into backplate? I might have older mounting kit (from April or May '12), but I never had such problem ... make sure the springs are not tensioned by moving the lower knob all the way up so it touches the "knob" sitting on top of the post. by "knob" I mean the part you turn with your fingers


----------



## audioholic

They are both all the way up. I'll show pictures tonight


----------



## audioholic

Still no luck. I seriously feel like something will break! I "primed" the springs with pliers but that did nothing. I have mounting plate underneath CPU block plastic washer then spring then metal washer...am I missing something here? Its an i5 2500k on an Asus z-77 itx deluxe board. Like I said the original springs I had were soft,these things are like rocks!


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Still no luck. I seriously feel like something will break! I "primed" the springs with pliers but that did nothing. I have mounting plate underneath CPU block plastic washer then spring then metal washer...am I missing something here? Its an i5 2500k on an Asus z-77 itx deluxe board. Like I said the original springs I had were soft,these things are like rocks!


are those springs longer than old ones or just way stiffer or both?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Still no luck. I seriously feel like something will break! I "primed" the springs with pliers but that did nothing. I have mounting plate underneath CPU block plastic washer then spring then metal washer...am I missing something here? Its an i5 2500k on an Asus z-77 itx deluxe board. Like I said the original springs I had were soft,these things are like rocks!


Did you read my response in the WC club thread?
I also posted here some time back when I bought my second Raystorm, I had a hard enough time with the mounting screws that I contacted PPC-s, who contacted XSPC. XSPC says "all springs are made the same", FWIW.









You need to secure the backplate like I said in the other thread or get someone to hold it in place for you, and push like hell until you get one screw started, then swap 180* across and get that one started, etc etc.
Just push, you're not going to break anything if you are just using your hands.
I found that after it had been mounted for a while the springs eventually lost some of their tension. If for some reason you just can't do it then look around for some replacement springs. You could probably get away with using spacers of some kind, but it likely would take some experimentation and several remounts to get it right.


----------



## -retaliation-

I had similar difficulties when attaching to my asus z68 deluxe board I had to get my girlfriend to hold the backplate and push and I had to reef on it pretty hard, I felt like I was going to bust my board or something but it turned out ok I know speaking from a first timers point of view its a little scary to be pushing on 1000$ worth of sensitive equipment as hard as you can but its allot more robust then I gave it credit for


----------



## mandrix

Since I seldom bother my wife with my hobby, I put a short piece of 2x4 wood block against the backplate, then take some painters tape and make a couple of passes from one end of the pc to the other.
This keeps the backplate in place until you can get the block attached, and the painters tape won't hurt the finish on anything.
Works on my Switch 810 just fine.

Of course on my SM8 I just pull the motherboard tray out and set it flat on my work table.


----------



## coolmiester

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Still no luck. I seriously feel like something will break! I "primed" the springs with pliers but that did nothing. *I have mounting plate underneath CPU block plastic washer then spring then metal washer*...am I missing something here? Its an i5 2500k on an Asus z-77 itx deluxe board. Like I said the original springs I had were soft,these things are like rocks!


Worth checking the order you have the mounting hardware - according to the XSPC Raystorm Manual its plastic washer / metal washer / spring (fig 4 and 5)


----------



## Draven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Worth checking the order you have the mounting hardware - according to the XSPC Raystorm Manual its plastic washer / metal washer / spring (fig 4 and 5)


I think that manual should be in the OP







+rep coolmiester.


----------



## Gahstly

Just ordered a basic raystorm kit from DazMode, I live in Canada so it was pretty much my only option if I didn't want to get hit with brokerage fees and high shipping costs.


----------



## deauboy16

Just got my XSPC setup! Runs great!


----------



## Draven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gahstly*
> 
> Just ordered a basic raystorm kit from DazMode, I live in Canada so it was pretty much my only option if I didn't want to get hit with brokerage fees and high shipping costs.
> 
> *snip*


Got mine from the same place, have met Daz in person, he's a great guy, and you won't be disappointed with the kit.


----------



## -retaliation-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gahstly*
> 
> Just ordered a basic raystorm kit from DazMode, I live in Canada so it was pretty much my only option if I didn't want to get hit with brokerage fees and high shipping costs.


Nothing wrong with daz







that's how I got my PC under water


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gahstly*
> 
> Just ordered a basic raystorm kit from DazMode, I live in Canada so it was pretty much my only option if I didn't want to get hit with brokerage fees and high shipping costs.


I ordered from FrozenCPU, paid $20 in customs


----------



## bittbull187

Sweet now get wet hehe


----------



## Gahstly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I ordered from FrozenCPU, paid $20 in customs


yea I was looking at FrozenCPU but the cheapest shipping they had was $43 when I checked and thought maybe I would get hit with high custom fees because it has happened in the past. All in all though I'm really happy I ordered from dazmode, I ordered on sunday and it came tuesday morning. I will definitely buy from there in the future if they have what I need.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Did you read my response in the WC club thread?
> I also posted here some time back when I bought my second Raystorm, I had a hard enough time with the mounting screws that I contacted PPC-s, who contacted XSPC. XSPC says "all springs are made the same", FWIW.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You need to secure the backplate like I said in the other thread or get someone to hold it in place for you, and push like hell until you get one screw started, then swap 180* across and get that one started, etc etc.
> Just push, you're not going to break anything if you are just using your hands.
> I found that after it had been mounted for a while the springs eventually lost some of their tension. If for some reason you just can't do it then look around for some replacement springs. You could probably get away with using spacers of some kind, but it likely would take some experimentation and several remounts to get it right.


I had to jump onto this thread last night midway through installing one of these for the first time. With a little force the threads all started just fine. I double checked and all the adjustments were to the top, but this thing goes on there tight! I'm really hoping the springs relax after a while. Exaclty how tight do you want these? I'm afraid to break the legs off the thing, and it's definitely not threaded as far in as I would like. A few turns yes, but I really would like it threaded in farther.


----------



## bittbull187

I had to tighten in a zig zag pattern corner to corner. It's ruff I also had to wiggle or move two of the pins to thread all the way down, when fully seated I then adjusted the tension, second thumb ball down a quarter turn each for good measure. My temps are pretty good for a i7930 @ 4.3 idle at 38-40 load in itbt 76-78 ambient 74fer


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bittbull187*
> 
> I had to tighten in a zig zag pattern corner to corner. It's ruff I also had to wiggle or move two of the pins to thread all the way down, when fully seated I then adjusted the tension, second thumb ball down a quarter turn each for good measure. My temps are pretty good for a i7930 @ 4.3 idle at 38-40 load in itbt 76-78 ambient 74fer


Mine is far from fully seated. I wonder if I should back them all off and try again. Maybe I have it off center. The damn thing was dancing all over the cpu, sliding on the TIM. I just don't want to go squashing pins under that processor (if that's even possible).


----------



## bittbull187

Try this hold it centralized and get one corner started not in just enough to hold then center the block again, get the opposite corner started, repeat for the last two. Now start to tighten one full rotation on each pin in a corner to corner pattern. Try a different one of four pins in that hole, if that does not work check the hole might need to re tap it as there might be a bur.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bittbull187*
> 
> Try this hold it centralized and get one corner started not in just enough to hold then center the block again, get the opposite corner started, repeat for the last two. Now start to tighten one full rotation on each pin in a corner to corner pattern. Try a different one of four pins in that hole, if that does not work check the hole might need to re tap it as there might be a bur.


Heh, I did exactly that over my lunch break and got it down most of the way! I'm gonna let the springs settle in a little more before cranking down the rest of the way. As it stands there is only a tiny bit of the threads left sticking out of the MB so I think we are good to go. Thanks for the help ! Rep!

Sorry for muddying up the thread with a troubleshooting problem.


----------



## bittbull187

Np I ask questions all the time part of learning and be prepared for awesome cooling!! Hehe

also i found the best thermal performance by putting the tim on the block itself in the shape of the chip, the pea method did not yeld the best result but thats just for my set up but might be worth looking into.


----------



## tobitronics

I got the AMD raystorm, however during install I noticed that:

1. the installation was a pain in the ass. The screws wouldn't go in easily, I had to push on the block to let the screws reach the hole. Is this normal?

2. The block is bent. I noticed this after I screwed all the screws in with the springs at their most loose position. I turned all the screws back to the point where they just sit in the hole and they could snap out any moment. The block is still bent but way less than before. It's been sitting like this for 2 weeks now, although the loop hasnt been turned on yet (not finished with the loop yet). Is this bending a common problem? Should I RMA or can I just leave it like this? And do I really have to screw everything in to the max or is the current solution safe as well?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## rpgman1

What kind of 120mm fans would go well with the RX radiators? I would like them to be quiet, yet push a lot of air. I know the RX require high RPM fans.


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpgman1*
> 
> What kind of 120mm fans would go well with the RX radiators? I would like them to be quiet, yet push a lot of air. I know the RX require high RPM fans.


Actually, RX rads work well with lower speed fans that have high static pressure. I recommend (and I know a lot of people that will also chime in saying the same thing) Scythe Gentle Typhoons. You could get the AP-15 which is an 1800 rpm variant or the AP-14 which is a 1450 rpm variant. They push a ton of air and have high static pressure with relatively low noise considering their speed. If you get the AP-15, you could run it at full or get a fan controller and run them lower when you want less noise.

I am personally using 4x AP-15s on both of my XSPC EX240 rads. They are on fan controllers and are extremely quiet. My Corsair TX850 power supply is now my loudest component.


----------



## rpgman1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stuup1dmofo*
> 
> Actually, RX rads work well with lower speed fans that have high static pressure. I recommend (and I know a lot of people that will also chime in saying the same thing) Scythe Gentle Typhoons. You could get the AP-15 which is an 1800 rpm variant or the AP-14 which is a 1450 rpm variant. They push a ton of air and have high static pressure with relatively low noise considering their speed. If you get the AP-15, you could run it at full or get a fan controller and run them lower when you want less noise.
> 
> I am personally using 4x AP-15s on both of my XSPC EX240 rads. They are on fan controllers and are extremely quiet. My Corsair TX850 power supply is now my loudest component.


Those Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans seem to be the de facto standards for performance/noise ratio. Guess I'll have to get those and a fan controller as well.


----------



## feniks

frozencpu sells now the mythical AP-00 fans, marked as AP-45 (2,150rpm), they are one step up above golden AP-15's (1,850rpm). might require a fan controller already, but those are fastest/quietest on 3-pin connector that Scythe makes in dual ball bearing category.
ordered 2x AP-45's tonight to replace my noisy S-Flex 1,900rpm on external radiator ... one of fans developed a loud motor noise, will keep them as spares (no longer sold series).


----------



## bittbull187

I'm using corsair sp120 on a fan controller no complaints.in push pull


----------



## Coppernicus

Raystorm club? Count me in!!! The chrome on this thing is so crazy, I love it!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpgman1*
> 
> Those Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans seem to be the de facto standards for performance/noise ratio. Guess I'll have to get those and a fan controller as well.


For the RX that would be a poor choice imo. I think that the AP-15 sounds awful at around 1000rpm. I prefer fans with an fdb bearing.


----------



## CloudX

Here's mine, don't know why I never posted it. I love the kit!


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bittbull187*
> 
> I'm using corsair sp120 on a fan controller no complaints.in push pull


Using Cougar Vortex 120mm fans on my RX360 in pull. ~180rpm and below 45'c


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BababooeyHTJ*
> 
> For the RX that would be a poor choice imo. I think that the AP-15 sounds awful at around 1000rpm. I prefer fans with an fdb bearing.


Well he could just get an AP-14 or AP-13 and call it a day. I suggested an AP-15 because it is generally the most well regarded rad fan because it gives him the option of running full on or slower without compromising much. The tonal quality though, is purely subjective. I find my AP-15s to be quite pleasant around 7-9 volts. I hear my PSU over them at that point.


----------



## preston.murrell

mine comes in tomorrow =) then out with this weak little h50 and in with my 360 mm rad and raystorm


----------



## Callist0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> I had to jump onto this thread last night midway through installing one of these for the first time. With a little force the threads all started just fine. I double checked and all the adjustments were to the top, but this thing goes on there tight! I'm really hoping the springs relax after a while. Exaclty how tight do you want these? I'm afraid to break the legs off the thing, and it's definitely not threaded as far in as I would like. A few turns yes, but I really would like it threaded in farther.


I too had struggles getting it down, even had a screw shoot out at me that I didn't have threaded enough. After about 2 weeks I removed the block to drain the system (added a new rad) and it went on much easier. The springs are unecssarily stiff IMO. The xspc water block has 4 pits in the copper from the corners of the proc. I have the lower adjustment thumb screws as loose as possible and it's still tight as can be. It does go on easier now and I do have idle temps in the 20C range (about 55 full load).


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callist0*
> 
> I too had struggles getting it down, even had a screw shoot out at me that I didn't have threaded enough. After about 2 weeks I removed the block to drain the system (added a new rad) and it went on much easier. The springs are unecssarily stiff IMO. The xspc water block has 4 pits in the copper from the corners of the proc. I have the lower adjustment thumb screws as loose as possible and it's still tight as can be. It does go on easier now and I do have idle temps in the 20C range (about 55 full load).


Holy crap, it indented the block? And here I was worried I was going to damage the processor tightening it down so tight. I ended up backing the screws out and retightening. They did go in easier the second time. Scary on the first mount though.


----------



## bittbull187

Only Fear if You hear A Crunch from Under The Block.. Ask Me How I Know Lol


----------



## Cavey00

This is my first run with Intel and when I clamped the proc hold down the first time I heard a crunching noise. I freaked out and unclamped it to inspect it. Everything looked fine so I clamped it again and it sounded crunchy, but in the end everything works great! I didn't hear that noise tightening the Raystorm down but like many have posted on here it is so tight that first time you feel like you are going to break something.


----------



## Callist0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> Holy crap, it indented the block? And here I was worried I was going to damage the processor tightening it down so tight. I ended up backing the screws out and retightening. They did go in easier the second time. Scary on the first mount though.


Yeah I was really concerned once I saw that considering I have an LGA 1366 with no real upgrade plans, and I didn't want to be forced to buy a new cpu and mobo.

However the second time was not a big deal, and the lid of the CPU is totally fine. Guess it's stronger than I thought.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CloudX*
> 
> Here's mine, don't know why I never posted it. I love the kit!


Nice man! What kind of LED's are you rocking?


----------



## CloudX

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice man! What kind of LED's are you rocking?






Just the white that came with the kit. I took the one out of the reservoir. It didn't make sense to add artificial light directly in the system like that.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CloudX*
> 
> 
> Just the white that came with the kit. I took the one out of the reservoir. It didn't make sense to add artificial light directly in the system like that.


ahhh, hard to notice with all the lights on.


----------



## CloudX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> ahhh, hard to notice with all the lights on.


TBH it was off in that pic haha!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CloudX*
> 
> TBH it was off in that pic haha!


haha, well that explains a lot!


----------



## kanaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> This is a system with Raystorm the Intel Aluminium Bracket fitted


Does anybody knows if the aluminium bracket comes with these alu screws? It would be a waste if not.


----------



## v1x

does any 1 know what size the plastic washers are, as i have lost 1









i have e-mailed xspc but its been 3 days now and no reply!


----------



## kanaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1x*
> 
> does any 1 know what size the plastic washers are, as i have lost 1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have e-mailed xspc but its been 3 days now and no reply!


Seems to be 10mm outer diameter with 4mm Inner diameter, sorry I couldn't measure the width.


----------



## bittbull187

I Swoped The Stock Washers For Nice Steel On Thread Side Pvc On Block Side Worked Well I Just Took The Little Plastic Washers To Home Stupid And Matched them Up


----------



## audioholic

For my issue with the super stiff springs I flipped the second nuts so that the spring would go inside. I think there will still be plenty of tension to make good contact with the CPU.


----------



## bittbull187

Good Idea hehe


----------



## kanaks

Just ordered the aluminium bracket directly from XSPC UK, it is going to pair nicely with some black chrome fittings


----------



## coolmiester

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> For my issue with the super stiff springs I flipped the second nuts so that the spring would go inside. I think there will still be plenty of tension to make good contact with the CPU.


That is the correct way







........you must of had them the wrong way around previously.

XSPC Raystorm Manual


----------



## Scribe

Thought I'd post this one here!

Painted the bracket and mounted on the MSI Z77 MPower


----------



## mironccr345

^^ Nice. Would look sick with some chrome mounting hardware.


----------



## Cavey00

Ok, my turn to join. Forgive some of the bad photos, I've never been able to quite get the quality some of you guys get. I'm also prepared for the bench bashing. No one likes my setup but me













and yes, I still have some wire management to do.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> No one likes my setup but me


I like it very much. Look clean too.


----------



## Cavey00

Thanks kiz!

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## unequalteck

i got mine last week from local reseller. but now the WB LED is dead. is it easy to change it? anyone mind to provide a tutorial?


----------



## tzvia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> Ok, my turn to join. Forgive some of the bad photos, I've never been able to quite get the quality some of you guys get. I'm also prepared for the bench bashing. No one likes my setup but me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and yes, I still have some wire management to do.


I like it. We think alike, you in particle board/wood, and me in metal. And yea, it's hard to do cable management when there is no where to hide the cables except under the mobo tray. I have resorted to split-tubing but just bought a fan controller, so now the whole process of cable management starts all over...
And while I love my Raystorm block, that RES warped and began leaking from the top so I replaced it yesterday with a Alphacool Repack. Never would have seen the leak if it were in a case.


----------



## Cavey00

Love the suspended fan tzvia! Is that strictly for cooling the board components? That's one thing I worry about a little is the vrm and chip set heat sinks get pretty toasty to the touch now. I'm unwilling to put a fan on them though. I love the silence and a fan would take away from the look on mine.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## tzvia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> Love the suspended fan tzvia! Is that strictly for cooling the board components? That's one thing I worry about a little is the vrm and chip set heat sinks get pretty toasty to the touch now. I'm unwilling to put a fan on them though. I love the silence and a fan would take away from the look on mine.
> 
> Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2


Funny, the looks never bother me (obvious yes?). I would love it to be silent, but letting things cook because of looks makes no sense. Your computer will thank you for a 200mm fan... and it won't add much noise- mine are almost silent.

The fan on top is for general mobo cooling, just getting the air moving, and I added the one in front to blow on the two 580s- it lowered the temps under load because it's blowing into the back of the cards. They max out gaming at around 60~63c on air. Yea it makes noise, but the noise is from the 4 Corsair SP HP fans on my rad- those make noise. Finally got them on a controller, they were on molex full blast until yesterday. I don't even notice the D5 set on 4.


----------



## Cavey00

Hmm. I might be able to hide one way to the left side behind my secondary monitor to blow across it. Might look into that. We might be getting off topic here, but the extra heat on the motherboard is indirectly the fault of using the Raystorm









Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Cavey00

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unequalteck*






i got mine last week from local reseller. but now the WB LED is dead. is it easy to change it? anyone mind to provide a tutorial?

It doesn't really require a tutorial, you simply need to strip back the heatshrink and solder a new LED in. If you have never soldered before I would suggest practicing on some spare wires because you are going to make mistakes and end up overheating the leads. If you have a test meter I would use it to make sure that you didn't break a connection anywhere. LED's rarely die although it's not impossible.


----------



## gunslinger0077

here is specs
amd 8350
sabertooth mobo
nvidia 670
xpsc raystorm rx 360 water cooling kit


----------



## mironccr345

Nice!! Kind of looks like my build! ^^^

I know, off topic. But I did have the RayStorm block on there at one point. But I needed it for my main rig.


----------



## djames

Finished my last build a month or so ago,



Ya, the wires aren't perfect, but with a Mountain Mod, no real place to hide them.



Cooling system underneath and seperate.



3d Surround with Asus VG278H



But my favorite part is the 3 noctua fans I put in the ceiling to vent my room... to my wife's tv room.

Fun stuff, thanks for all the input to the folks in this forum that have helped me build this.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djames*
> 
> Finished my last build a month or so ago,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ya, the wires aren't perfect, but with a Mountain Mod, no real place to hide them.
> 
> 
> 
> Cooling system underneath and seperate.
> 
> 
> 
> 3d Surround with Asus VG278H
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But my favorite part is the 3 noctua fans I put in the ceiling to vent my room... to my wife's tv room.
> 
> Fun stuff, thanks for all the input to the folks in this forum that have helped me build this.


Nice build and sweet set up. Does your wife complain about the warm air your pumping into her TV room?


----------



## djames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice build and sweet set up. Does your wife complain about the warm air your pumping into her TV room?


Thanks, kinda went off the deep end on this one. We're in Seattle, so no problem there, it's the "explosions" that bug her...


----------



## rmcknight36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unequalteck*
> 
> 
> 
> i got mine last week from local reseller. but now the WB LED is dead. is it easy to change it? anyone mind to provide a tutorial?


You can buy the led kit from pc performance and it connects to a 4 pin molex very easy to do


----------



## kanaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> This is a system with Raystorm the Intel Aluminium Bracket fitted


Wow great looking block, where did you found the non-black mounting material? All I can find in XSPC (UK) site is these pesky mat black mounting screws.


----------



## SpykeZ

Hey..HEY!! I'm joining this! My work in Progress

http://www.overclock.net/t/1350525/build-log-29cu-cyprus

This is a rough draft, I didn't do anything TOO clean because it's all coming back apart once I get to part 2 of ordering the rest which is on page 3 of my link


----------



## bittbull187

Link is pic? Had I seen the picture in thread might be nice don't like thread hoppin just mo, but very nice build u have !!


----------



## SpykeZ

Fixed ^__^


----------



## bittbull187

+1


----------



## dawestsides

First watercooling (XSPC D5 EX240) , and first big mistake











As you can see the flow is reversed on the CPU , is it that bad ?

My 3930K is running at 4.2 right now , and stressing it with P95/IBT it never goes above 60 c . Should I reinstall it again properly ?


----------



## bittbull187

i would if you see temps go up, i read somewhere its important on these blocks to have inlet outlet in order but i could be wrong.


----------



## Scribe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dawestsides*
> 
> First watercooling (XSPC D5 EX240) , and first big mistake
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the flow is reversed on the CPU , is it that bad ?
> 
> My 3930K is running at 4.2 right now , and stressing it with P95/IBT it never goes above 60 c . Should I reinstall it again properly ?


Those temps aren't that bad for that size chip. You would see a performance increase by flipping your block to have the proper inlet and outlet, but probably only a few degrees.


----------



## Cavey00

Dawestsides, what kind of tubing are you using? Those are some nice bends with no kinks! I'd watch the one on the top there which I'm guessing is your VRM block. The tubing isn't straight on (obviously because of the bend) and I'd be weary of a leak. I'm no expert at all but if you have to pull the cpu block to turn it around is there a way to rearrange that so the tube isn't off center of the fitting?


----------



## SpykeZ

Yes you want the in water going into the intlet of the cpu block due to the way the jetplates inside of the block are designed. No you won't ruin anything but your missing out on better performance. IF you want your water tubing to look exactly like that, just flip the block around.


----------



## dawestsides

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> Dawestsides, what kind of tubing are you using? Those are some nice bends with no kinks! I'd watch the one on the top there which I'm guessing is your VRM block. The tubing isn't straight on (obviously because of the bend) and I'd be weary of a leak. I'm no expert at all but if you have to pull the cpu block to turn it around is there a way to rearrange that so the tube isn't off center of the fitting?


Thanks.I have replaced the XSPC tubing with Durelene , it is better looking. I guess I will have to rearrange everything








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> Yes you want the in water going into the intlet of the cpu block due to the way the jetplates inside of the block are designed.


Thanks for the confirmation


----------



## bittbull187

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dawestsides*
> 
> Thanks.I have replaced the XSPC tubing with Durelene , it is better looking. I guess I will have to rearrange everything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the confirmation


can i get this tubing locally? 1/2x3/4


----------



## dawestsides

Yes , I got mine from Amazon.


----------



## Pezman16

Anyone have any experience with The Raystorm GPU Universal Block,

Contemplating getting one to match my Raystorm CPU block, or shall I go the EK Supremacy Vga route, anyone have temps and flow rates that can help me make my decision with confidence?

Thanks


----------



## darkapollo

Just because I need another excuse to show off... 29* idle 32* full load.


----------



## bittbull187

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pezman16*
> 
> Anyone have any experience with The Raystorm GPU Universal Block,
> 
> Contemplating getting one to match my Raystorm CPU block, or shall I go the EK Supremacy Vga route, anyone have temps and flow rates that can help me make my decision with confidence?
> 
> Thanks


i was going to go xspc for gpu, however the heatkiller core x3 blocks put them to shame. full cover or just gpu cover work well. all three of my cards idfle at 26-28 and load out at 42 in valley and heaven.


----------



## Wenty

I'm in now.


----------



## ukn69

I'm thinking about getting this kit for my i7 3820 and adding another rad for GTX Titan sli but just the chip alone, anyone have the same cpu and if so what temps are you getting?


----------



## mironccr345

Here's a better pic of my RayStorm. Painted the bracket flat black.


----------



## D0U8L3M

Hey guys im thinking about getting this block, based on looks and price/performance ratio.

The main problem is that i want to know if i should either get the copper one and get the top nickel plated or just get the chrome one.

In either case i also want to swap out the chrome bracket for a plexi one so i can have the LEDs

So my main question is will having the nickel plated copper vs the chrome plated brass make any difference in temps and if anyone wants to trade brackets so i dont have to buy the whole 20$ kit to get the acrylic piece =P


----------



## silent54

I bought my Raystorm over a year ago and haven't regretted it. Changed out the LEDs and it looks and perform great.


----------



## feniks

OMG, what a difference in performance!

Installed the full copper Raystorm with aluminum bracket and new mounting kit a few weeks ago and can't believe it still!

It seems to perform a good 10-15C better than my former acetal top Raystorm with acrylic bracket!
it must be the full metal bracket and new springs sending more equal force against the CPU IHS to push it down more evenly and maybe with greater force. I suspect the acrylic bracket was more flexing than pressing the block down on my setup.

I even had opened my former Raystorm block and it still looks normal inside, so the only thing really truly different (except for the top) is the bracket and mounting kit... very unusual, I thought they perform nearly same ... or maybe I just finally seated it right this time LOL









here's a pic of my new toy (BIG thanks to djames!):


----------



## kanaks

The new mounting kit that you are refering to is different in design to the previous Or it' s just "new"? I just ordered the alu bracket for the looks (it looks great with platinum rams, photos soon) but you have a point its going to be more rigid than the plexi. +rep


----------



## cafu02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> OMG, what a difference in performance!
> 
> Installed the full copper Raystorm with aluminum bracket and new mounting kit a few weeks ago and can't believe it still!
> 
> It seems to perform a good 10-15C better than my former acetal top Raystorm with acrylic bracket!
> it must be the full metal bracket and new springs sending more equal force against the CPU IHS to push it down more evenly and maybe with greater force. I suspect the acrylic bracket was more flexing than pressing the block down on my setup.
> 
> I even had opened my former Raystorm block and it still looks normal inside, so the only thing really truly different (except for the top) is the bracket and mounting kit... very unusual, I thought they perform nearly same ... or maybe I just finally seated it right this time LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here's a pic of my new toy (BIG thanks to djames!):


http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/raystorm_cpu_waterblock_intel_special_edition_full_copper/
Is that the one u talking about?


----------



## feniks

Yeah, i meant just new. Springs are much stiffer in it than they were in my old raystorm, bur essentially design is same. I believe it is the bracket making a real difference. it always appeared to me that it flexes more than it pushes down on the block, maybe I'm wrong though, not 100% sure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> The new mounting kit that you are refering to is different in design to the previous Or it' s just "new"? I just ordered the alu bracket for the looks (it looks great with platinum rams, photos soon) but you have a point its going to be more rigid than the plexi. +rep


Yup, that is the one.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cafu02*
> 
> http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/raystorm_cpu_waterblock_intel_special_edition_full_copper/
> Is that the one u talking about?


----------



## kanaks

Coming soon (that alu bracket is the boss)


----------



## kingchris

heres mine.



didnt use the led, went with el wire instead!


----------



## bittbull187

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> heres mine.
> 
> 
> 
> didnt use the led, went with el wire instead!


I like it !!!


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bittbull187*
> 
> I like it !!!


Thanks! i do too


----------



## CoolGuy90

What type of screws are on the raystorm?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolGuy90*
> 
> What type of screws are on the raystorm?


Is this what your asking?

Pic is from Hardwarecanucks


----------



## CoolGuy90

Sorry should have clarified, the screws on the bottom of the base.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

How did/do you guys clean your raystorm blocks ?









When do you do it and what do you run in your loop, curious about how you fellows do this, I'll be cleaning my first time this week, just running distilled water+biocide+kill coil loop, i'll be upgrading to some coolant








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> Coming soon (that alu bracket is the boss)


did you sleeve yourself or you buy presleeved cables? looks sweet dude


----------



## samwise67

Heres my raystorm. bought it for my first WC build and havent even considered switching it....except to maybe the new copper edition one.


----------



## kanaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> How did/do you guys clean your raystorm blocks ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When do you do it and what do you run in your loop, curious about how you fellows do this, I'll be cleaning my first time this week, just running distilled water+biocide+kill coil loop, i'll be upgrading to some coolant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> did you sleeve yourself or you buy presleeved cables? looks sweet dude


Thank you very much







It is my first go at sleeving, I made some custom extensions to avoid opening the AX.


----------



## kanaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> How did/do you guys clean your raystorm blocks ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When do you do it and what do you run in your loop, curious about how you fellows do this, I'll be cleaning my first time this week, just running distilled water+biocide+kill coil loop, i'll be upgrading to some coolant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> did you sleeve yourself or you buy presleeved cables? looks sweet dude


Thank you very much







It is my first go at sleeving, I made some custom extensions to avoid opening the AX.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolGuy90*
> 
> Sorry should have clarified, the screws on the bottom of the base.


I'm pretty sure the thumb screw mounts to the backplate.


----------



## CoolGuy90

They do, I just need to know the size of the hex screws that are on the bottom of the copper base so I can take the block apart and clean it.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolGuy90*
> 
> They do, I just need to know the size of the hex screws that are on the bottom of the copper base so I can take the block apart and clean it.


i'm trying to do same thing, but i'm looking for what products people are using to clean it


----------



## feniks

last time I opened my Raystorm I used driver toolkit from local Microcenter, there was a fitting tip in it, mine is looking exactly same (just yellow box) as this Rosewill kit from newegg:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=99-261-024&Tpk=N82E16899261024

sorry can't remember exactly what it was. sorry at this point I don't even remember if it was a hex bit or square bit or torx LOL. haven't seen it in a while LOL. can you post a pic of your raystorm base?

EDIT:
it was a hex bit, I found a pic. for sure it is included in all common precision driver tool kits, like the one I linked.


----------



## CoolGuy90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> i'm trying to do same thing, but i'm looking for what products people are using to clean it


I've heard lemon juice and vinegar work really well.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolGuy90*
> 
> They do, I just need to know the size of the hex screws that are on the bottom of the copper base so I can take the block apart and clean it.


Ahh, sorry bud, I have no idea. But I get off in an hour, I can check for you when I get home.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> i'm trying to do same thing, but i'm looking for what products people are using to clean it


Believe it or not, Ketchup, lemon juice or vinegar. It works.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

@coolguy and mironccr

Have either of you tried CLR? (Calcium Lime Rust)
While your methods might work, it sounds pretty scary, For the CLR I just know i'd be doing too many rinses because that stuff is heavy.
Would a toothbrush+a tad bit of vinegar with distilled water be enough for minor cleaning or would it be useless?
thx for the help mates + rep for ya


----------



## CoolGuy90

I'm in the process of building my first loop but from my research vinegar and lemon juice are safe.


----------



## socketus

Make it distilled white vinegar - or lemon juice - or ketchup. No use in mixing any one of those as a cleaner. Toothbrush would be fine.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Make it distilled white vinegar - or lemon juice - or ketchup. No use in mixing any one of those as a cleaner. Toothbrush would be fine.


Would 90% alc get the job done?


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Would 90% alc get the job done?


to get you drunk hell yes!


----------



## codenamew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wenty*
> 
> I'm in now.


Hi,

It seems like u got the same setup as I am. I just bought a new xspc ex240 kit to cool my 3570k. My temp @1.305vcore during Linx can shoot up to 105c. Ambient temp should be around 32c. Thus I would like to ask what temp did u get for u setup ? I'm afraid I'm doing it wrong. Unsure how tight should I tighten my wb. Pls advise.


----------



## codenamew

hi,

could someone pls advise me whether my temp with xspc ex240 d5 kit is normal? I am running on

-3570K
-4.6Ghz
-Vcore: 1.35V
-T(ambient) around 32C/89.6F
-Prime95 custom torture test
@min fft size : 128K
@memory to use: 90% of my memory

Max temperature readings are
-Core 0:87C
-Core 1: 97C
-Core 2: 91C
-Core 3: 86C

Pls advise. i have reseat my wb couple of times and fully tighten the 2nd knob. result still same. next i tried by not tightening the 2nd knob and still the results are the same. is this normal? the temperature reading given by realtemp mostly sit btw 70-80+C but max reading are as given above.

thanks


----------



## thorian88

Anyone got a extra spring and like all the washers for the kit? I lost mine and they are all sold out


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *codenamew*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> It seems like u got the same setup as I am. I just bought a new xspc ex240 kit to cool my 3570k. My temp @1.305vcore during Linx can shoot up to 105c. Ambient temp should be around 32c. Thus I would like to ask what temp did u get for u setup ? I'm afraid I'm doing it wrong. Unsure how tight should I tighten my wb. Pls advise.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *codenamew*
> 
> hi,
> 
> could someone pls advise me whether my temp with xspc ex240 d5 kit is normal? I am running on
> 
> -3570K
> -4.6Ghz
> -Vcore: 1.35V
> -T(ambient) around 32C/89.6F
> -Prime95 custom torture test
> @min fft size : 128K
> @memory to use: 90% of my memory
> 
> Max temperature readings are
> -Core 0:87C
> -Core 1: 97C
> -Core 2: 91C
> -Core 3: 86C
> 
> Pls advise. i have reseat my wb couple of times and fully tighten the 2nd knob. result still same. next i tried by not tightening the 2nd knob and still the results are the same. is this normal? the temperature reading given by realtemp mostly sit btw 70-80+C but max reading are as given above.
> 
> thanks


Ambient 32C is high. Did you try re-seat the CPU? Did you check the thermal paste is spread evenly? What I would do when installing CPU is put thermal paste on the CPU, put heatsink, firmly press it & pull the heatsink to check the thermal paste. Check whether thermal paste spread properly. If there is some area not covered with thermal paste, then wipe clean & start over with more thermal paste (just a little bit more). The impression of thermal paste on the CPU also can give you an idea whether the heatsink put an even pressure to CPU or not.

BTW, what thermal paste did you use?


----------



## PhatLarry

Here is my Raystorm


----------



## bittbull187

Sweet ^^


----------



## Scribe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *codenamew*
> 
> hi,
> 
> could someone pls advise me whether my temp with xspc ex240 d5 kit is normal? I am running on
> 
> -3570K
> -4.6Ghz
> -Vcore: 1.35V
> -T(ambient) around 32C/89.6F
> -Prime95 custom torture test
> @min fft size : 128K
> @memory to use: 90% of my memory
> 
> Max temperature readings are
> -Core 0:87C
> -Core 1: 97C
> -Core 2: 91C
> -Core 3: 86C
> 
> Pls advise. i have reseat my wb couple of times and fully tighten the 2nd knob. result still same. next i tried by not tightening the 2nd knob and still the results are the same. is this normal? the temperature reading given by realtemp mostly sit btw 70-80+C but max reading are as given above.
> 
> thanks


Those temps are a bit high. Things you should check:
1) Even pressure on the mounting system
2) thermal paste is spread evenly
3) both the cpu and block are properly cleaned before using (If not properly cleaned, contaminents could cause your temps to be higher)
4) and finally make sure that you have removed all cling wraps from block. I received a block that the surface was double cling wrapped and almost made the mistake of mounting it with the plastic







however i caught it before mounting luckily


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhatLarry*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my Raystorm


That avy! lol


----------



## kizwan

Officially joining this club.


----------



## Lutfij

I can dig that BLUE - but the red rad is the killer in that spectacular setup








*minus the rad - I believe that's an amazing build!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Officially joining this club.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The red is really distracting, but I can dig the look you're going for. Nice work.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> I can dig that BLUE - but the red rad is the killer in that spectacular setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *minus the rad - I believe that's an amazing build!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> The red is really distracting, but I can dig the look you're going for. Nice work.


I'm very glad you guys like it. Thanks.







I was trying something different. I was a bit sceptical at first but they turn out ok I guess.


----------



## Eaglesfan251

Just got my Raystorm in the mail today for my first custom loop. Now I just need the rest to hurry up and get here.


----------



## mironccr345

^^ Exciting stuff! Post those pics when you're loops up and running.


----------



## snef

already in the club

but, just finished wife's rig

what do you think about all white raystorm and white Razor 7970r??

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0019_zps219571cf.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0014_zps1de5dc05.jpg.html


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> already in the club
> 
> but, just finished wife's rig
> 
> what do you think about all white raystorm and white Razor 7970r??
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0019_zps219571cf.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0014_zps1de5dc05.jpg.html


I think it's freakin' awesome. That's you're wife's rig?! She's lucky. Does she game?


----------



## Cavey00

Good build snef! I'm not really into the white pc's but that one looks very nice


----------



## Lutfij

Kickass quality snef!!! Awesome mate!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> already in the club
> 
> but, just finished wife's rig
> 
> what do you think about all white raystorm and white Razor 7970r??
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0019_zps219571cf.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0014_zps1de5dc05.jpg.html


I'm not a fan to the white too but I do like a lot with how you arrange the tubing & the reservoir. Nice work!


----------



## japanesegorilla

I just finished wiring some new white LEDs for my raystorm. Ten 3mm white LEDs for $.99 shipped off ebay, fantastic.

http://imgur.com/GabQOqX


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> I just finished wiring some new white LEDs for my raystorm. Ten 3mm white LEDs for $.99 shipped off ebay, fantastic.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/GabQOqX


oh man, that's a sweet deal. Did it come sleeved?


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> oh man, that's a sweet deal. Did it come sleeved?


No, it was just a ten pack of 3mm white LEDs. I just wired 4 of them in a series and ran them off of 12V molex. The wires in between the LEDs I just covered in some 1/4" heat shrink, but the two that came from the molex connector I covered with some of LutroO's sleeve that I had.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> No, it was just a ten pack of 3mm white LEDs. I just wired 4 of them in a series and ran them off of 12V molex. The wires in between the LEDs I just covered in some 1/4" heat shrink, but the two that came from the molex connector I covered with some of LutroO's sleeve that I had.


I knew it was too good to be true.


----------



## andyv

I have just recently installed my Raystorm into my PC.
It didn't come with one of the backplates, and half of the washers would not fit (internal diameter was too small) but I got there in the end.







I don't have any pics of it completely installed yet.I like the LED lighting, however I need to route the cables nicely otherwise it will look bad and not worth it.

Temperatures in my system were not what I was hoping for but apparently are common in a 120.2 set up with CPU only (40-43deg above ambient temp)


----------



## robbo2

Mine never came with the 775 backplate and wash missing a plastic washer. Not happy about the 775 backplate because it was advertised.


----------



## Pheozero

Hmmm. To go with the Copper block or the Chrome block? Decisions, decisions.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wenty*
> 
> I'm in now.


What tubing is that? and coolant?

Oh and I'm in now too







gonna put in another two LED's in there to use all 4


----------



## Lutfij

@robbo2 - ah seeing you got a 775 rig as well







really rare seeing one being watercooled ...ahem * like moi* ahem

@andyv - which backplate was missing - maybe contact the site from which you purchased from and inform them of the issue - maybe head up the complaint to XSPC directly

^ the mian reason I got the Raystorm block was cos of the included 775 backplate and ofc I was able to get the copper for a great price!


----------



## andyv

It was the 775 backplate no issues have no need for it. The website I listed it on states it but the XSPC site doesn't.


----------



## EssArTee4

Can i join?


----------



## andyv

I really like your build EssArTee4, I have a pretty similar set up to yours except that looks like the D5 X-Res 100, but I have the 140. What temperatures are you getting?


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> I just finished wiring some new white LEDs for my raystorm. Ten 3mm white LEDs for $.99 shipped off ebay, fantastic.
> 
> http://imgur.com/GabQOqX


nice work








what did you use to sleeve and to make the LED?


----------



## whyscotty

May I join









http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/705/dsc01846o.jpg/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EssArTee4*
> 
> Can i join?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a clean looking rig. Nice job.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK




----------



## natsu2014

It's time to join







(have to straighten the res, try at least)


----------



## NIK1

Does anyone have a XSPC water-cooling kit installed in a Cooler master Cosmos 2 case. Which kit is the best for this case. Any info greatly appreciated....


----------



## andyv

If I am looking at the right case it seems like you should be able to get a 360 and 240 rad in the case easy. Just google your case with water cooling in the title and there will be many pictures. You could probably also search on here for ideas, and hopefully lists of what people use.

If you can get the d5 ex240 kit or if they have a d5 ex360 kit they would be suitable.


----------



## carlhil2

Will running 2 xspc dual bay res with a x20 pump in separate loops for gpu/cpu give me better cooling for each, or, would one MCP355 , etc., for both, in one loop be better? i'll be using a XSPC RS360 rad for the cpu, a Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 140mm for the Titan loop? the two xspc dual bay res pumps will cost only $100.00. [the reason that i want to go on the cheap is because i had ordered a XSPC kit that was never delivered, it was lost or stolen, so, i am out of $160.00]


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carlhil2*
> 
> Will running 2 xspc dual bay res with a x20 pump in separate loops for gpu/cpu give me better cooling for each, or, would one MCP355 , etc., for both, in one loop be better? i'll be using a XSPC RS360 rad for the cpu, a Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 140mm for the Titan loop? the two xspc dual bay res pumps will cost only $100.00. [the reason that i want to go on the cheap is because i had ordered a XSPC kit that was never delivered, it was lost or stolen, so, i am out of $160.00]


If budget constraint, then go for dual-loop with XSPC X2O 750 pumps. You only cooling CPU & one GPU, it should be enough for cooling. If possible, I recommend getting XSPC D5 Vario Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir / Pump Combo & cooling your CPU and GPU in one loop. One 360mm rad should be enough for your loop (rule of thumb 120mm for each block & another 120mm for additional cooling).

[EDIT] FrozenCPU sell both XSPC RS360 & EX360 at the same price. I would recommend getting EX360.


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> nice work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what did you use to sleeve and to make the LED?


I used four 3V 3mm white LEDs. I powered them from the 12V wire from a molex connector. The wires in between the LEDs I just covered with some 1/4" black heatshrink (it would have been really difficult to sleeve the wire in between each LED and I planned on bending and tucking those wires out of sight anyway). I sleeved the two wires to and from the molex connector in some black PET sleeving from LutroO customs.

For anyone considering doing this, it's a very simple job if you have a soldering iron.

http://imgur.com/JMSEVL2


----------



## carlhil2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> If budget constraint, then go for dual-loop with XSPC X2O 750 pumps. You only cooling CPU & one GPU, it should be enough for cooling. If possible, I recommend getting XSPC D5 Vario Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir / Pump Combo & cooling your CPU and GPU in one loop. One 360mm rad should be enough for your loop (rule of thumb 120mm for each block & another 120mm for additional cooling).
> 
> [EDIT] FrozenCPU sell both XSPC RS360 & EX360 at the same price. I would recommend getting EX360.


Thanks for the tip, it was just that i have already lost $160.00 on a lost/stolen delivery, and, 2 of these pumps are cheaper than one of the pumps/res that you have mentioned, being a somewhat weak pump, i figured to just do 2 separate loops with said pumps/res. now, if i can get reimbursed for the lost kit, i would use that loot on the better pump/res!


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> I used four 3V 3mm white LEDs. I powered them from the 12V wire from a molex connector. The wires in between the LEDs I just covered with some 1/4" black heatshrink (it would have been really difficult to sleeve the wire in between each LED and I planned on bending and tucking those wires out of sight anyway). I sleeved the two wires to and from the molex connector in some black PET sleeving from LutroO customs.
> 
> For anyone considering doing this, it's a very simple job if you have a soldering iron.
> 
> http://imgur.com/JMSEVL2


Just checking if i've understodd you right: you take the 12V cable put in a resistance for 3V then connect the cable as mentioned and on the last LED you connect to mass?


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> Just checking if i've understodd you right: you take the 12V cable put in a resistance for 3V then connect the cable as mentioned and on the last LED you connect to mass?


I didn't use any resistors. My source voltage is 12V from the 12V yellow wire on a molex connector. Each LED has a forward voltage of 3.0V-3.2V so four of them can take 12V-12.8V when wired in serial. If you use colored LEDs instead of white LEDs they will have a lower forward voltage and you will probably have to use resistors.

This site is a useful tool for figuring it out. http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz

I hope that helps.


----------



## nepToon

Yes, that helped. Thanks for clariffying!

I'll be using white ones as well, will post the result here once it's done.

cheers


----------



## Sethris225

Log here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1395419/build-log-dissonance-itx-wc-loop-2-5in-thin-all-bits-fittings-custom-case-670# (Still building!)

Glad to be in the club!


----------



## Ripple

Just installed for Intel CPU and I am not getting the best temps. How far should I screw in the screws? On my old EK waterblock, I could go all the way until it stopped and it worked great. I don't want to crack the mb or the plastic around the block on this one. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Cavey00

That is a tough call Ripple. I had the same concerns and basically tightened a quarter turn at a time until I saw flexing on the acrylic. I couldn't get them anywhere near all the way down. How bad are your temps?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ripple*
> 
> Just installed for Intel CPU and I am not getting the best temps. How far should I screw in the screws? On my old EK waterblock, I could go all the way until it stopped and it worked great. I don't want to crack the mb or the plastic around the block on this one. Thanks in advance.


I just turn the nuts until I feels it enough. Basically means stop before the acrylic mount bend. If the block doesn't move when you wiggle it a little bit, then it is tight as it should be. For good measure, I use a ruler to make sure all nuts has the same depth/distance. (I may not explains this properly because English is my second language)

Please share your temps & also the ambient temp. The delta temp; difference between the load temp & ambient; will let we know whether the temps are normal or too high. Also, the way the cpu cores laid out on SB-E, it favours the block water channels to lined up vertically, when installed in normal ATX casing. So, you can try rotate the block 90 degrees & you should see improvement in temps.


----------



## bittbull187

I idle at 45-48 load 72 for breif sexond then 65-69 load ambient temps is 83f
I7930 @4.44ghz -1.46v


----------



## andyv

I read that the block performs well when it's not too tight. I think it was the martinliquidlab review of it.

I am getting pretty similar temperatures to you with a 3570k at 4.2 and ambient is about 20deg


----------



## nagle3092

Anyone direct die mount the raystorm? Really thinking about it...


----------



## bittbull187

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> Anyone direct die mount the raystorm? Really thinking about it...


As in metal to metal? I thought of it but not willing to lap my processor


----------



## Ripple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I just turn the nuts until I feels it enough. Basically means stop before the acrylic mount bend. If the block doesn't move when you wiggle it a little bit, then it is tight as it should be. For good measure, I use a ruler to make sure all nuts has the same depth/distance. (I may not explains this properly because English is my second language)
> 
> Please share your temps & also the ambient temp. The delta temp; difference between the load temp & ambient; will let we know whether the temps are normal or too high. Also, the way the cpu cores laid out on SB-E, it favours the block water channels to lined up vertically, when installed in normal ATX casing. So, you can try rotate the block 90 degrees & you should see improvement in temps.


I reseated the block on the CPU rotating it 90 degrees, applied (less) TIM and that seemed to help a little. I did not tighten the nuts too much.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> Anyone direct die mount the raystorm? Really thinking about it...


Me too. I will have to wait until my CPU is outdated though, too early for me.

My CPU idles at 34 C with one pesky core that runs about 4-5 degrees higher than the rest. At full load and 4.5 GHz overclock, it maxes out at 64 C. I guess that's not too bad. Ambient temp is 22.2 C.

Thanks for all your replies.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ripple*
> 
> My CPU idles at 34 C with one pesky core that runs about 4-5 degrees higher than the rest. At full load and 4.5 GHz overclock, it maxes out at 64 C. I guess that's not too bad. Ambient temp is 22.2 C.
> 
> Thanks for all your replies.


Idle quite high in 22C ambient. That 12C above ambient. Probably CPU power saving is off. However, your max temp at 64C when under full load (Prime95/folding ??), look reasonable.


----------



## Mr357

Did I hook up my radiator incorrectly?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





Every other rig I've seen has the port more towards the front connected to the CPU waterblock and the other port connected to the reservoir.


----------



## cafu02

One In
One out
You can't really mess it up.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cafu02*
> 
> One In
> One out
> You can't really mess it up.


Thought so, thanks!


----------



## nepToon

Just got my Noctua NT-H1 thermal compound and installed my Raystorm waterblock for my Phenom II x4 965BE







:




Still some time until the case is ready though :/


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> Just got my Noctua NT-H1 thermal compound and installed my Raystorm waterblock for my Phenom II x4 965BE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still some time until the case is ready though :/


Nice! Don't tighten it too much, or the acrylic will bow over time.


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice! Don't tighten it too much, or the acrylic will bow over time.


Thanks for the hint, i loosened them up a bit.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> Thanks for the hint, i loosened them up a bit.


No problem. It happened to my block and a build I did for a buddy. Great block, but the acrylic bowing was a bummer.


----------



## Pheozero

I have a limited amount of tubing, so should I mock up the loop in my case, then leak test it outside of the case?

Also, how would I go about cleaning the rad? Boil distilled and vinegar, fill to the brim, shake, rinse and repeat a few times?


----------



## JessyCuh

Hey guys, I'm completely new to all this, still in the stages of finalizing my build on paper, but I had the H100i in mind with a 500R or R4. However, I came across member Unequalteck's build and just fell in love with this. Basically, I'd like to set up my case exactly like this with that large sexy reservoir oh god. I'm probably going to have to custom window-ize my side panel to show everything.

I'm reading through all of the posts and searching up on how to actually do this, but I'm pretty dumb when it comes to these DIY things and need a little hand-holding to guide me through so I don't mess things up.

I'm also going to SLI 2 GTX770 (eventually) as I plan to run 3x 27" monitors, 1 1080p gaming monitor in the middle, and 2 IPS on the sides. (I'm not going to use all 3 for gaming, and it won't be solely a gaming build, and I see there are little rectangular blocks for SLI? I'm sucking in so much information that my brain is way too saturated and my mind is in a state of sh**storm right now!!

Oh, and I will be running a 4770K.

Cheers

(What really threw me off focus was sleeving... soldering LED... etc.)

tl;dr - WHAT and HOW ?????????


----------



## nepToon

While leakproofing my Acetal top failed me.



Has anyone had a similar problem or has any Idea if I can get it leakproof?


----------



## unequalteck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JessyCuh*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm completely new to all this, still in the stages of finalizing my build on paper, but I had the H100i in mind with a 500R or R4. However, I came across member Unequalteck's build and just fell in love with this. Basically, I'd like to set up my case exactly like this with that large sexy reservoir oh god. I'm probably going to have to custom window-ize my side panel to show everything.
> 
> I'm reading through all of the posts and searching up on how to actually do this, but I'm pretty dumb when it comes to these DIY things and need a little hand-holding to guide me through so I don't mess things up.
> 
> I'm also going to SLI 2 GTX770 (eventually) as I plan to run 3x 27" monitors, 1 1080p gaming monitor in the middle, and 2 IPS on the sides. (I'm not going to use all 3 for gaming, and it won't be solely a gaming build, and I see there are little rectangular blocks for SLI? I'm sucking in so much information that my brain is way too saturated and my mind is in a state of sh**storm right now!!
> 
> Oh, and I will be running a 4770K.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> (What really threw me off focus was sleeving... soldering LED... etc.)
> 
> tl;dr - WHAT and HOW ?????????


FYI, u dont need to solder the LED if u are going to get the raystorm WB. The twin led are included.
and sleeved cable u can get it from bitfenix maybe?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> I have a limited amount of tubing, so should I mock up the loop in my case, then leak test it outside of the case?
> 
> Also, how would I go about cleaning the rad? Boil distilled and vinegar, fill to the brim, shake, rinse and repeat a few times?


You can leak test inside the case. Just make sure to disconnect any power cables to motherboard including the 24-pin cable & to GPU. Fills the reservoir with coolant & jump start the PSU to start the pump for leak test. Put a lot of paper towels near the fittings.

Don't need to use vinegar. Just use cold/hot water & distilled water. Just run tap water through radiator(s) & block(s) for a couple of minutes. Then flush with hot water & finally flush with distilled water to flush out remaining tap water. Be careful when using hot water because it can damaged plastic parts.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> While leakproofing my Acetal top failed me.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone had a similar problem or has any Idea if I can get it leakproof?


Can't RMA? You can use Epoxy but I don't know how well it tolerate at high temp.

Suddenly today there is moisture on the Raystorm block, near the OUT port. The moisture is not in downward pattern that can suggest a leak. I swap it with my fingers & feels like oil. I have 120mm fan there for VRMs cooling. I'm positive it's oil residue but I don't know where it came from, either from the fan or the 90 degrees rotary itself. Also, the coolant is Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry & it should leave blue coloured residue there if it actually leak. It does quiet hot here, ambient 36C, if that matters.

(right-click & open in new tab to get better look of the moisture)


----------



## Xyrrath

Can any1 tell me if the Thermal paste XSPC gives with the raystorm kit is worth using?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyrrath*
> 
> Can any1 tell me if the Thermal paste XSPC gives with the raystorm kit is worth using?


Used it the past, it's good. Not as good as MX3/4 but like 1-3'c difference isn't so bad.


----------



## Xyrrath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Used it the past, it's good. Not as good as MX3/4 but like 1-3'c difference isn't so bad.


Guess ill use my mx4 then







thanks for the reply

Made a little picture of what I got waiting atm.



XSPC fans are on the 240 rad because I wanted to check if a 240 would fit in the bottom of my case for the future.

Still waiting for:

4x g1/4 1/2 barbs (Black Chrome)
1x EK FC TITAN XXL Edition + Back plate waterblock
2 meters of Tygon Clear Tubing
1x Mayhems Sunset Yellow (Pastel coolant)
1x Mayhems Red Dye
4x Noctua NF-F12s
2x 4-Pin PWM Y-Splitter (2x PWM + 1x 3-pin) 30CM extention cable

Sadly this company I ordered from ripped me off with their stock counts for the 3rd time this will also be the last time I order from them. Advertising on their site that they got items on stock and once I ordered it they mail me back a few hours later saying its in back order. Wish there were more choices in The Netherlands for watercooling products


----------



## Lutfij

You could order from a country close to Netherlands and have it shipped to your place - might also want to get in touch with WiSK our resident watercooler here on OCN for some advice on snagging quality parts









Hope this helps









BTW welcome to the club mate!


----------



## Alastair

Hey guys I was wondering if you could help me. I have just finished building my first custom water loop. It consists of a Raystorm CPU block, an XSPC 750 pump/res and an EX280 rad. (Still leak testing!







I'll send pics when I am done.) Phase 2 is that I wish to put my VERY toasty 6850's onto water as well with another EX280 rad. Firstly I know the Rasa GPU block is quite restrictive according to reviews, but I can't find any information on the newer Raystorm GPU blocks restriction. Any body have any idea how restrictive it is? And can I run planned my planned set up with my 750 pump?

This is my set up (phase 2 is still to be done):
750pump/res(Phase 1 complete)>EX280(Phase 1 complete)>Raystorm CPU(Phase 1 complete)>Raystorm GPU(Phase2)>Raystorm GPU(Phase2)>EX280(Phase2) and then back to the 750. With Raystorm GPU blocks can I run my GPU's in series on my 750 pump?

Thanks in advance guys!









EDIT: Also does it matter if the acrylic of the AMD mounting plate flexes when it is bolted down? Or should I reduce the tightness of the bolts?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Hey guys I was wondering if you could help me. I have just finished building my first custom water loop. It consists of a Raystorm CPU block, an XSPC 750 pump/res and an EX280 rad. (Still leak testing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll send pics when I am done.) Phase 2 is that I wish to put my VERY toasty 6850's onto water as well with another EX280 rad. Firstly I know the Rasa GPU block is quite restrictive according to reviews, but I can't find any information on the newer Raystorm GPU blocks restriction. Any body have any idea how restrictive it is? And can I run planned my planned set up with my 750 pump?
> 
> This is my set up (phase 2 is still to be done):
> 750pump/res(Phase 1 complete)>EX280(Phase 1 complete)>Raystorm CPU(Phase 1 complete)>Raystorm GPU(Phase2)>Raystorm GPU(Phase2)>EX280(Phase2) and then back to the 750. With Raystorm GPU blocks can I run my GPU's in series on my 750 pump?
> 
> Thanks in advance guys!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Also does it matter if the acrylic of the AMD mounting plate flexes when it is bolted down? Or should I reduce the tightness of the bolts?


The Acrylic is meant to bend a slight amount, nothing major. That is why people often opt for a aluminum plate instead.

I believe the 750 pump will be fine, it won't be a bottleneck of cooling per-say. But a pump better than it should reduce temperatures. A lot of people these days underestimate all pumps.

ie; You'll be fine and changing it would see drop in temps, but not by much.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Hey guys I was wondering if you could help me. I have just finished building my first custom water loop. It consists of a Raystorm CPU block, an XSPC 750 pump/res and an EX280 rad. (Still leak testing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll send pics when I am done.) Phase 2 is that I wish to put my VERY toasty 6850's onto water as well with another EX280 rad. Firstly I know the Rasa GPU block is quite restrictive according to reviews, but I can't find any information on the newer Raystorm GPU blocks restriction. Any body have any idea how restrictive it is? And can I run planned my planned set up with my 750 pump?
> 
> This is my set up (phase 2 is still to be done):
> 750pump/res(Phase 1 complete)>EX280(Phase 1 complete)>Raystorm CPU(Phase 1 complete)>Raystorm GPU(Phase2)>Raystorm GPU(Phase2)>EX280(Phase2) and then back to the 750. With Raystorm GPU blocks can I run my GPU's in series on my 750 pump?
> 
> Thanks in advance guys!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Also does it matter if the acrylic of the AMD mounting plate flexes when it is bolted down? Or should I reduce the tightness of the bolts?
> 
> 
> 
> The Acrylic is meant to bend a slight amount, nothing major. That is why people often opt for a aluminum plate instead.
> 
> I believe the 750 pump will be fine, it won't be a bottleneck of cooling per-say. But a pump better than it should reduce temperatures. A lot of people these days underestimate all pumps.
> 
> ie; You'll be fine and changing it would see drop in temps, but not by much.
Click to expand...

I don't think the AMD set comes in Aluminium.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Hey guys I was wondering if you could help me. I have just finished building my first custom water loop. It consists of a Raystorm CPU block, an XSPC 750 pump/res and an EX280 rad. (Still leak testing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll send pics when I am done.) Phase 2 is that I wish to put my VERY toasty 6850's onto water as well with another EX280 rad. Firstly I know the Rasa GPU block is quite restrictive according to reviews, but I can't find any information on the newer Raystorm GPU blocks restriction. Any body have any idea how restrictive it is? And can I run planned my planned set up with my 750 pump?
> 
> This is my set up (phase 2 is still to be done):
> 750pump/res(Phase 1 complete)>EX280(Phase 1 complete)>Raystorm CPU(Phase 1 complete)>Raystorm GPU(Phase2)>Raystorm GPU(Phase2)>EX280(Phase2) and then back to the 750. With Raystorm GPU blocks can I run my GPU's in series on my 750 pump?
> 
> Thanks in advance guys!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Also does it matter if the acrylic of the AMD mounting plate flexes when it is bolted down? Or should I reduce the tightness of the bolts?
> 
> 
> 
> The Acrylic is meant to bend a slight amount, nothing major. That is why people often opt for a aluminum plate instead.
> 
> I believe the 750 pump will be fine, it won't be a bottleneck of cooling per-say. But a pump better than it should reduce temperatures. A lot of people these days underestimate all pumps.
> 
> ie; You'll be fine and changing it would see drop in temps, but not by much.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I don't think the AMD set comes in Aluminium.
Click to expand...

Even if it did, good luck finding one in South Africa.

I also use the Acrylic, and it bends ever so slightly. It's really nothing to be worried about at all.


----------



## Alastair

An body know about the restriction on the raystorm GPU blocks?


----------



## Xyrrath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> An body know about the restriction on the raystorm GPU blocks?


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyrrath*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> An body know about the restriction on the raystorm GPU blocks?
Click to expand...

No mention on a Raystorm GPU block...

I just had an idea. By my maths and thanks to Martins Liquid Lab, the 750 will not be able to push 1GPM with 2GPU a CPU and 2 Rads. So I had an Idea... What if I link up a 450 pump/res and the 750 pump/res in series like so to boost the system pressure?

According to Martin the 750 does 1.6 PSI @ 1 GPM.

Here is my maths for working out what the 450 can do.
1.8m of head according to XSPC.
1.8M = 2.56 PSI
450L/hour = 1.98GPM

So Therefore:
The 450 pump can maintain 1GPM @ 1.3PSI (Roughly)

Is my maths sound here?

If so... If I link them in serial like I did above to boost the pressure... By my maths I will have a total of 2.9PSI @ 1GPM to work with. With 2 GPU blocks (Using EK Supremacy Bridge editions @ 0.7 PSI each for reference) the XSPC raystorm CPU (0.58PSI) and 2 280mm rads (0.2PSI each) I will still have around 0.4 - 0.5 PSI of pressure before I go over the 2.9 PSI available. So IRL if this set up works I will be above 1GPM. Will this work?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> No mention on a Raystorm GPU block...
> 
> I just had an idea. By my maths and thanks to Martins Liquid Lab, the 750 will not be able to push 1GPM with 2GPU a CPU and 2 Rads. So I had an Idea... What if I link up a 450 pump/res and the 750 pump/res in series like so to boost the system pressure?
> 
> According to Martin the 750 does 1.6 PSI @ 1 GPM.
> 
> Here is my maths for working out what the 450 can do.
> 1.8m of head according to XSPC.
> 1.8M = 2.56 PSI
> 450L/hour = 1.98GPM
> 
> So Therefore:
> The 450 pump can maintain 1GPM @ 1.3PSI (Roughly)
> 
> Is my maths sound here?
> 
> If so... If I link them in serial like I did above to boost the pressure... By my maths I will have a total of 2.9PSI @ 1GPM to work with. With 2 GPU blocks (Using EK Supremacy Bridge editions @ 0.7 PSI each for reference) the XSPC raystorm CPU (0.58PSI) and 2 280mm rads (0.2PSI each) I will still have around 0.4 - 0.5 PSI of pressure before I go over the 2.9 PSI available. So IRL if this set up works I will be above 1GPM. Will this work?


That model you linked is in parallel though? Serial would be pump > rad > waterblocks > pump, or something like what you linked is parallel!

Either way, it should boost performance though. I would run it in serial though, if it were my decision. 2GPM is more than you will ever need, and parallel only really has benefits over serial if you're trying to get crazy high flowrates.


----------



## d1nky

IM IN. XSPC Rs750

although after a day of use the pump has started to make a high pitched humming. Off for RMA soon!


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> No mention on a Raystorm GPU block...
> 
> I just had an idea. By my maths and thanks to Martins Liquid Lab, the 750 will not be able to push 1GPM with 2GPU a CPU and 2 Rads. So I had an Idea... What if I link up a 450 pump/res and the 750 pump/res in series like so to boost the system pressure?
> 
> According to Martin the 750 does 1.6 PSI @ 1 GPM.
> 
> Here is my maths for working out what the 450 can do.
> 1.8m of head according to XSPC.
> 1.8M = 2.56 PSI
> 450L/hour = 1.98GPM
> 
> So Therefore:
> The 450 pump can maintain 1GPM @ 1.3PSI (Roughly)
> 
> Is my maths sound here?
> 
> If so... If I link them in serial like I did above to boost the pressure... By my maths I will have a total of 2.9PSI @ 1GPM to work with. With 2 GPU blocks (Using EK Supremacy Bridge editions @ 0.7 PSI each for reference) the XSPC raystorm CPU (0.58PSI) and 2 280mm rads (0.2PSI each) I will still have around 0.4 - 0.5 PSI of pressure before I go over the 2.9 PSI available. So IRL if this set up works I will be above 1GPM. Will this work?
> 
> 
> 
> That model you linked is in parallel though? Serial would be pump > rad > waterblocks > pump, or something like what you linked is parallel!
> 
> Either way, it should boost performance though. I would run it in serial though, if it were my decision. 2GPM is more than you will ever need, and parallel only really has benefits over serial if you're trying to get crazy high flowrates.
Click to expand...

I am just trying to get enough pressure to do 2 Rads 1 CPU and 2 GPU blocks at 1GPM I thought linking both pumps into 1 tube like I showed above would boost pressure? I was told on another thread that pumping from one pump/res into another pump/res would not boost the pressure as I would loose the pressure in the res...


----------



## d1nky

wouldnt you need a nother Y splitter back into the res/pumps? so theres a flow.

couldnt you change the pump in the res for a better one? or possibly after pump - rad - cpublock - pump - rad - gpublock - gpublock


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1nky*
> 
> wouldnt you need a nother Y splitter back into the res/pumps? so theres a flow.
> 
> couldnt you change the pump in the res for a better one? or possibly after pump - rad - cpublock - pump - rad - gpublock - gpublock


Yeah. But I thought that was obvious. So I didnt include it in the diagram.


----------



## d1nky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Yeah. But I thought that was obvious. So I didnt include it in the diagram.


not really because you could have a line from different components coming back in to make a loop instead of a splitter.

for example at the end, from either waterblock would feed either pump.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1nky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Yeah. But I thought that was obvious. So I didnt include it in the diagram.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not really because you could have a line from different components coming back in to make a loop instead of a splitter.
> 
> for example at the end, from either waterblock would feed either pump.
Click to expand...

If I ran the GPU blocks parellel and just ran the 750 pump/res? Again my maths here.

750 = 1.6PSI @ 1GPM.
Total pressure drop with 1CPU block, 2 rads and 2 GPU blocks in parallel will be around 1.33PSI.
So I should be able to run the system at around 1.3 to 1.4 GPM (Used Martins 750 pump review to work that out). But as parallel on GPU's halves the flow rate, each GPU will get around 0.7GPM. Will that hurt the cooling performance for my graphics cards?


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1nky*
> 
> 
> 
> IM IN. XSPC Rs750
> 
> although after a day of use the pump has started to make a high pitched humming. Off for RMA soon!


Looks awesome!







I love that sleeving.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1nky*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IM IN. XSPC Rs750
> 
> although after a day of use the pump has started to make a high pitched humming. Off for RMA soon!


All that red! But still a nice build. Sorry about the pump.


----------



## felang

So I got the WC bug about a year ago and decided to go with a Raystorm kit for my Corsair Carbide 500R for a simple CPU (2600K) + GPU (GTX 680) loop.

I recently purchased a second GTX 680 in order to go SLI.

Basically I just want to know if you guys think I have enough cooling power in my loop in order to get a decent delta T. I´m not looking for crazy low temps, just staying under 70 deg with low noise is my goal.

Loop:
D5 pump
2x XPSC Razor GTX 680
XSPC Raystorm CPU block (2600K)
XSPC 240EX + 140EX + 120AX

My current case is really the limiting factor, I should of gone with a full tower with more rad space but this is what I ended up with.

So, do you guys think I have enough rads to keep everything under 70 deg while gaming considering 25 deg ambien temp?


----------



## andyv

I would say you might be pushing it with that set up. I have the same CPU block (i5 3570k @ 4.2) and a 670 over clocked and I'm getting about 60 on the CPU and 45 on the GPU. I have a 280 sr1 and a ex240. So slightly more rad space I think. Obviously it depends on the components temps but my GPU was running about 70deg on air CPU was about the same before I wc them.

Edit: oh yeah my ambient is usually around 22 deg.


----------



## HGooper

Do I get any improvement if I lap the raystorm?


----------



## d1nky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HGooper*
> 
> Do I get any improvement if I lap the raystorm?


ive scratched the hell out of mine so i would also like to know this.

i think most gains come when you lap the chip as well, ive seen/heard about 5*c drop from doin both - well apparently


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HGooper*
> 
> Do I get any improvement if I lap the raystorm?


Unless there was poor contact between the block & IHS, you won't see any improvement. If there was poor contact, it's good idea to lap both the block & IHS.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1nky*
> 
> ive scratched the hell out of mine so i would also like to know this.
> 
> i think most gains come when you lap the chip as well, ive seen/heard about 5*c drop from doin both - well apparently


The scratches won't effect performance unless they're deep scratches.


----------



## Evange

The phantom 410 is really a bit too squeezy for watercooling as I was only able to fit in a 120mm and 240mm radiator.

Load temperatures are around 56C and 70C for my GPU and CPU respectively.

The reason why I went WC is because of my high ambient room temperature. (~28C in daytime)


----------



## Alastair

So I'm set-up. Raystrom, EX280 and 750 pump/res


----------



## CasperGS

May I join??


----------



## Evange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasperGS*
> 
> May I join??


Dear god do you have some sort of counter weight at the front of your casing? It looks so unstable with that huge a** rad sticking out behind.

Still a pretty baws rig though.


----------



## ChaosAD

Why dont you just turn you rad facing the other way to make a shorter, better looking tubing? Use 2x45s and it will be much better imo.


----------



## CasperGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaosAD*
> 
> Why dont you just turn you rad facing the other way to make a shorter, better looking tubing? Use 2x45s and it will be much better imo.


Did it that way in case I wanted to put it some where else. Its my 1st custom and didnt want to screw it up.


----------



## mironccr345

Nice job for your first WC build. You'd need some angled fittings if you want to turn that rad around. Other wise your tubes will kink.


----------



## Alastair

Where can one buy 3mm LED's for the raystorm block. I broke one of the LED's....


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> So I'm set-up. Raystrom, EX280 and 750 pump/res


Look nice!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasperGS*
> 
> Did it that way in case I wanted to put it some where else. Its my 1st custom and didnt want to screw it up.


Nice work for first time water cooling.







Do you have any other pictures without the side panel & the plastic bags?

If you decided to keep the radiator at the back, you also can use two 90 degrees fittings on each ports but it wouldn't be economical than turn it around & use 45s degrees fittings.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> So I'm set-up. Raystrom, EX280 and 750 pump/res
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CasperGS*
> 
> Did it that way in case I wanted to put it some where else. Its my 1st custom and didnt want to screw it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Nice work for first time water cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have any other pictures without the side panel & the plastic bags?
> 
> If you decided to keep the radiator at the back, you also can use two 90 degrees fittings on each ports but it wouldn't be economical than turn it around & use 45s degrees fittings.
Click to expand...

Thank you. I worked hard on it. The bug has bitten and I am now scheming about putting my GPU's under water as well!


----------



## CasperGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Look nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice work for first time water cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have any other pictures without the side panel & the plastic bags?
> 
> If you decided to keep the radiator at the back, you also can use two 90 degrees fittings on each ports but it wouldn't be economical than turn it around & use 45s degrees fittings.


Tring to upload some other pics but there is a glitch with this site and my uploads arnt showing up.


----------



## CasperGS

Sorry my pc is really dirty right now....have huge dust prob with my house.


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Where can one buy 3mm LED's for the raystorm block. I broke one of the LED's....


You can get replacements off of ebay.


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Where can one buy 3mm LED's for the raystorm block. I broke one of the LED's....


You can get tailed or single ones off of FCPU. XSPC also has their own tailed ones on their shop. You can also get single ones off of Adafruit for a much better deal than FCPU's singles.


----------



## japanesegorilla

I would go with ebay if you are able to solder it yourself. Otherwise get an actual xspc pre-wired one from whatever your water cooling source is. I bought a 10 pack of 3mm white LEDs from ebay for $1US with free shipping. That's pretty darn cheap but I did have to wire it up myself whereas the ones from xspc are ready to be plugged straight into a molex connector.


----------



## wevsspot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Where can one buy 3mm LED's for the raystorm block. I broke one of the LED's....


I got my replacement at Performancepcs.com

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60_357_359&products_id=21665


----------



## bittbull187

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wevsspot*
> 
> I got my replacement at Performancepcs.com
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60_357_359&products_id=21665


Awsome place i got my heatkillers from them


----------



## Alastair

Yeah I just want to know where I can get them locally in South Africa with out having to import them. I might just have to learn some new skills with a soldering iron and make some of my own.


----------



## japanesegorilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Yeah I just want to know where I can get them locally in South Africa with out having to import them. I might just have to learn some new skills with a soldering iron and make some of my own.


It's fairly unlikely that you will find a physical shop selling the xspc LEDs. You can check local electronic shops for regular LEDs.

I still say just order some from ebay.


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japanesegorilla*
> 
> It's fairly unlikely that you will find a physical shop selling the xspc LEDs. You can check local electronic shops for regular LEDs.
> 
> I still say just order some from ebay.


It's fairly unlikely you'll find a physical shop selling any computer parts... Unfortunately.
There is the occasional custom pc shop but those are usually quite hard to find.

Unless of course you're in South Korea... Damn the lucky bastards in that country.


----------



## spikezone2004

I am getting ready to order my XSPC raystorm RX240, after weeks of deciding I have finally picked it. I was going to get 360 at first but I decided to go with 240 rad, then I had to decide the thickness I wanted lol.

It is a big price difference from the RS to the RX but I think it will be worth it, suppose to be 15% performance increase.

Anything I should know before I order it? anything I should get with my kit? probably going to order it from frozencpu unless I find better prices somewhere else.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianJ*
> 
> AMD mounts make me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> why can't they produce a sexy looking mount as well for AMD?


My Koolance block is the same. I blame Intel


----------



## d1nky

would the X20 750 pump/res be enough to push through a 360 rad and 240 rad. and xspc block?

750lph i think yes, but would like a second opinion.

the 360 rad (black ice xtreme) had quite high resistance compared to others, hence why im asking.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1nky*
> 
> would the X20 750 pump/res be enough to push through a 360 rad and 240 rad. and xspc block?
> 
> 750lph i think yes, but would like a second opinion.
> 
> the 360 rad (black ice xtreme) had quite high resistance compared to others, hence why im asking.


It'll be fine. I did a build with a 360, 120, cpu block and two 570 blocks. Pump worked pretty good for the price and only for only pushing 750lph. But, if you have a little more funds, I'd get the D5.


----------



## spikezone2004

Anyone know what the screw length is on the radiator before it can crack it?

I am going to be using the fans than come with the XSPC RX240 kit on one side and my fans on the other and was just going to use regular fan screws to put them in but not to sure if they are too long and with put a crack in the radiator


----------



## Pheozero

With the compression fittings that come with the Raystorm kits, how tight is too tight? I had to replace some tubing and noticed that it was cutting into the tubing.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> With the compression fittings that come with the Raystorm kits, how tight is too tight? I had to replace some tubing and noticed that it was cutting into the tubing.


Just use your fingers. The O-rings on compression fittings are just insurance to keep the tubing on the barb, so they don't need to be extremely tight.


----------



## rmcknight36

Smexy


----------



## grymok

At last i got the prober water cooling









Haven't got pics of the final build yet.

Shame i don't get better temps on cpu tin than:
idle: 38-43
Load: 56-63
An Intel I7 930, 4,0 ghz 1.37v

But still rocks


----------



## d1nky

does anyone here think it would be ok to run Two different size hoses for a week or so?!

1/2 and 7/16

problem is i need to re work a new build and havent the fittings yet, so it will have to make do for a bit.


----------



## grymok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1nky*
> 
> does anyone here think it would be ok to run Two different size hoses for a week or so?!
> 
> 1/2 and 7/16
> 
> problem is i need to re work a new build and havent the fittings yet, so it will have to make do for a bit.


Shouldn't be a problem. The lesser sized tube will just add a little bit more restriction, but shouldn't be a problem at all. Go for it


----------



## d1nky

kind of looks ok with the mix of hose lol


----------



## spikezone2004

You can barely tell, atleast I couldnt took me a double look to see the different tubing.

I am looking forward to receiving my raystorm next week. getting everything ready for it now, painted a couple parts in case to make it colorful and my clamps.

Having thoughts about adding a T valve for draining but then I thought thats just another connection to have a possible leak, I dont mind tilting my case to pour it our through the fill cap in res. Maybe I will add one later one once I am more comfortable with my first WC loop.


----------



## d1nky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> You can barely tell, atleast I couldnt took me a double look to see the different tubing.
> 
> I am looking forward to receiving my raystorm next week. getting everything ready for it now, painted a couple parts in case to make it colorful and my clamps.
> 
> Having thoughts about adding a T valve for draining but then I thought thats just another connection to have a possible leak, I dont mind tilting my case to pour it our through the fill cap in res. Maybe I will add one later one once I am more comfortable with my first WC loop.


get a ball valve, and fittings for it. trust me i was doing the tilt and drain thing, its a pain in the arse. you only have two hands and to hold the case, loosen the fittings, make sure nothing splashes. i hated it!

a drain is priceless.

bottom of the xspc res/pump is port for sensors or drain, a couple barbs, hose and a ball valve will turn it into the ideal drain port, with no mess!


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1nky*
> 
> get a ball valve, and fittings for it. trust me i was doing the tilt and drain thing, its a pain in the arse. you only have two hands and to hold the case, loosen the fittings, make sure nothing splashes. i hated it!
> 
> a drain is priceless.
> 
> bottom of the xspc res/pump is port for sensors or drain, a couple barbs, hose and a ball valve will turn it into the ideal drain port, with no mess!


I havent heard of a ball valve before I will look into. I noticed there was an extra hole on the res when looking at videos of it, wasnt sure what it was for. But doesnt a drain valve have to be at the bottom of the loop in order to drain the liquid out?


----------



## d1nky

depends where ya have your res lol. on my old case it was fairly low and easy to drain from that hole.

but yea ideally at the bottom somewhere, or low enough to drain the majority and remove drain the rest.


----------



## spikezone2004

I think I will add a drain valve after a couple months when I empty and change out the liquid and possibly tubing for colored. But this will be my first time setting up custom WC loop want to keep it simple till I am comfortable with it.

Get it tomorrow, cant wait to put it in.


----------



## KnownDragon

Hey guys I am changing over from amd to intel, Is the only thing I need to change is the mount right?


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KnownDragon*
> 
> Hey guys I am changing over from amd to intel, Is the only thing I need to change is the mount right?


That should just be it, yeah.


----------



## KnownDragon

ty


----------



## Darylrese

Can i join please?

XSPC Raystorm 750 EX240 with Mayhems Blue Berry


----------



## Pheozero

I really do like how Blueberry looks. Do you have UV in yours or is that an effect from your lighting?

Here's mine:


Also, did you guys know there is a red faceplate for RoG boards?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20746/ex-blc-1485/XSPC_Aluminum_Red_Edition_Mounting_Face_Plate_-_Intel_Raystorm_CPU_Block.html?tl=g30c323s1205


----------



## Darylrese

It sure does look cool doesn't it? I want to darken the colour ever so slighly if possible to match my rig 100%. Need to find out how first.

Its just the lighting in my case mate. I have a white NXZT LED kit around the outside and two small blue cathodes behind the radiator aswell as the two blue LED's in the CPU block.

Im at 4.6ghz 1.200v on my 3770k, temps are 71,77,76,71 under load in PRIME95....is that about right?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> It sure does look cool doesn't it? I want to darken the colour ever so slighly if possible to match my rig 100%. Need to find out how first.
> 
> Its just the lighting in my case mate. I have a white NXZT LED kit around the outside and two small blue cathodes behind the radiator aswell as the two blue LED's in the CPU block.
> 
> Im at 4.6ghz 1.200v on my 3770k, temps are 71,77,76,71 under load in PRIME95....is that about right?


What is your ambient temp?


----------



## Darylrese

Well its 22c outside, shouldnt be any hotter inside but dont have a temp guage

What would i need to add to the loop if i want to cool my GTX 670 SLI? I'm guessing ill need a better pump, another radiator or two and GPU blocks?


----------



## KnownDragon

I think I never tried to join here is my photo.


----------



## Darylrese

I hear my 750 V4 Pump might be good enough to add my 2 x GTX 670's into the loop with an additional radiator?

Anyone running a CPU and SLI GPU's using thr 750 v4 pump?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> Well its 22c outside, shouldnt be any hotter inside but dont have a temp guage
> 
> What would i need to add to the loop if i want to cool my GTX 670 SLI? I'm guessing ill need a better pump, another radiator or two and GPU blocks?


Temps when fully loaded look ok to me in 22C ambient, although a little bit high.


----------



## spikezone2004

The XSPC RX240 kit comes with 1/2 barbs even though the tubing is 7/16" correct?

Just want to make sure I get the right size barbs because I need to order 2 more for a gpu block


----------



## jhaze84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> The XSPC RX240 kit comes with 1/2 barbs even though the tubing is 7/16" correct?
> 
> Just want to make sure I get the right size barbs because I need to order 2 more for a gpu block


That's correct. The slightly smaller tube makes for a tighter fit.


----------



## spikezone2004

Thanks for the clarification. just doubled checking before I order any in the future.


----------



## Darylrese

It's a VERY tight fit! Once the hoses are on you will not be able to get them back off! I had to put the ends of the tubing from my 750 EX240 kit into boiling water to soften them up before I could even get them on properly!


----------



## criminal

Would this kit http://www.svc.com/rd5ex280.html be a good start of getting into water cooling and support me adding a gpu block as well?


----------



## Darylrese

It looks good, you only need ONE D5 pump though unless your going to be cooling memory, chipsets, CPU and multiple GPU's!

Also 280mm radiator is a bit of an awkward size....what case do you have? Do you have 2 140mm mounts side by side to install a radiator of this size?


----------



## criminal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> It looks good, you only need ONE D5 pump though unless your going to be cooling memory, chipsets, CPU and multiple GPU's!
> 
> Also 280mm radiator is a bit of an awkward size....what case do you have? Do you have 2 140mm mounts side by side to install a radiator of this size?


Okay, I honestly did not even notice that there were two pumps.









I have an Air 540. The front and the top offer support for a 280mm radiator.


----------



## Darylrese

Nice little case that mate. So the radiator size is fine, although you could fit a 360 radiator in the front i believe! That would be even better!

I personally have this kit:

http://www.xs-pc.com/watercooling-kits/raystorm-750-ex240-watercooling-kit

It keeps my CPU cool, and looks the bees knees. I believe the pump / res is good enough for SLI GPU's too.

It only cost me £130!

They do 280mm and 360mm versions of this kit too.

Go with the D5 pump if you have the cash, if you dont the 750 offers very good value for money for its performance.


----------



## criminal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> Nice little case that mate. So the radiator size is fine, although you could fit a 360 radiator in the front i believe! That would be even better!
> 
> I personally have this kit:
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/watercooling-kits/raystorm-750-ex240-watercooling-kit
> 
> It keeps my CPU cool, and looks the bees knees. I believe the pump / res is good enough for SLI GPU's too.
> 
> It only cost me £130!
> 
> They do 280mm and 360mm versions of this kit too.
> 
> Go with the D5 pump if you have the cash, if you dont the 750 offers very good value for money for its performance.


So this would work for my cpu overclocked to 4.75GHz and my 780 Classified?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20926/ex-wat-266/XSPC_Raystorm_750_EX280_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_New_Rev_4_Pump_Included_w_Free_Dead-Water.html?tl=g30c321s1310


----------



## Darylrese

Yes it would, it might be better to get an additional radiator, perhaps a 120mm just to be safe. I have my 3770k running 4.6ghz no problems at all with the 240mm kit. Its about 10c cooler than my old Corsair H100. I haven't cooled my GPU's yet though as i have SLI so its going to need another radiator, two GPU Blocks and some other bits so is going to cost a fair bit. You should be ok with one GPU though


----------



## criminal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> Yes it would, it might be better to get an additional radiator, perhaps a 120mm just to be safe. I have my 3770k running 4.6ghz no problems at all with the 240mm kit. Its about 10c cooler than my old Corsair H100.


Great! Thanks alot!


----------



## Darylrese

Here's mine so you can see how it looks fitted if your interested


----------



## criminal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> Here's mine so you can see how it looks fitted if your interested


Very nice.


----------



## Ehpik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> Here's mine so you can see how it looks fitted if your interested


That's sexy.


----------



## NIK1

Anyone know what's the best xspc kit will fit in a Cooler Master Cosmos 2 case. It has a Asus Sabertooth Z77 mb in it also.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Anyone know what's the best xspc kit will fit in a Cooler Master Cosmos 2 case. It has a Asus Sabertooth Z77 mb in it also.


One with twin D5's and a 360 rad (AX360). I believe you can also mod the Cosmos 2 to fit a 480 in the top.

link


----------



## Darylrese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> One with twin D5's and a 360 rad (AX360). I believe you can also mod the Cosmos 2 to fit a 480 in the top.
> 
> link


Why does he need a TWIN D5 kit? That's well overkill surely?


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> Why does he need a TWIN D5 kit? That's well overkill surely?


He asked for the best, and that's what I gave him. What's wrong with overkill? Did you forget which site you're on?


----------



## wevsspot

Really no need for two D5s unless user plans to add gpu or power phase water cooling in the future.


----------



## jhaze84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> Why does he need a TWIN D5 kit? That's well overkill surely?


I agree, instead he should be looking at the single D5 and AX360 kit.


----------



## Lutfij

Maybe the bloke likes the look of the double D5 Copper raystorm kit







but honestly though, I know this is OCN but all I ever see is spectrum where one end uses the cheapest they can find and run it off with trash talk while the other end of the spectrum is with everything beyond their needs or aka overkill. btw this is OCN not OKN.

I'd ask NIK1 to assemble a custom loop with a raystorm in it or just get the AX/RX/EX/RS kit.


----------



## Darylrese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> He asked for the best, and that's what I gave him. What's wrong with overkill? Did you forget which site you're on?


I know its OCN but when someone is asking what they need, there's little point in totally over spec'ing and making him spend a fortune for no reason.

There's nothing wrong with overkill if you have the money and already know its an unnecessary purchase but you want to get it anyway. In this case he asked for advice, im sure he doesnt want to buy it all then realize hes wasted a couple of hundred on something he didn't want or need but if he understands its overkill and still goes ahead then thats upto him


----------



## spikezone2004

Will the XSPC X20 750 Rev 4 pump be enough to run the XSPC cpu block, the RX240 rad and the EK supremacy VGA block?

Just bought the EK vga block and want to make sure it will be enough


----------



## d1nky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> Will the XSPC X20 750 Rev 4 pump be enough to run the XSPC cpu block, the RX240 rad and the EK supremacy VGA block?
> 
> Just bought the EK vga block and want to make sure it will be enough


yes, ive got mine running res/rad/rad/cpu block with no problems.

and I was told their limits are dual rad and dual block.....


----------



## Darylrese

Someone told me the 750 v4 is enough to run SLI graphic cards and a CPU block...not sure if 100% correct


----------



## Lutfij

Darlyrese - Yeah you can run a single CPU+SLi+dual rad setup(rads can be dual 240's or 480's) but if you add chipset and memory into the loop you'll need a beefier pump to circulate around the loop. I'd also opt for a different bay res if you're going with a D5 version since the bay res apparently develops a bulge on the top cover and is very prone to leaking and damaging your components underneath it. The o-ring to the Bay res' top cover is the culprit.

New users won't see this. it develops over time and the horror stories are available on OCN.

Hope this helps.

Btw, anyone see the HRC Cosmos II build? its posted on OCN's Mayhems owners thread - trying to find the build log to that awesome number!


----------



## mironccr345




----------



## Darylrese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> Darlyrese - Yeah you can run a single CPU+SLi+dual rad setup(rads can be dual 240's or 480's) but if you add chipset and memory into the loop you'll need a beefier pump to circulate around the loop. I'd also opt for a different bay res if you're going with a D5 version since the bay res apparently develops a bulge on the top cover and is very prone to leaking and damaging your components underneath it. The o-ring to the Bay res' top cover is the culprit.
> 
> New users won't see this. it develops over time and the horror stories are available on OCN.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Btw, anyone see the HRC Cosmos II build? its posted on OCN's Mayhems owners thread - trying to find the build log to that awesome number!


Thank-you mate. Its good to know if I get my GPU waterblocks, I can use my current res / pump

Oh my that sounds bad!! Is that on the XSPC Bay res? Is it only the D5 version that is effected?


----------



## Lutfij

Got you covered on the issue








http://www.overclock.net/t/1347670/xspc-5-25-dual-bay-reservoir-leaking-at-pump-w-pics/0_100
and XSPC have been the humbled people they really are! Kudos XSPC for the support - would rep you guys if there was a hardware rep here
http://www.xs-pc.com/d5-dual-bay-reservoir-safety-notice/

Don't thank me though just helping mate!









Oh yeah, when it comes to having upgradable features from a budget kit, no one comes close to the XSPC kits - hands down!


----------



## Darylrese

Cheers dude, so it would seem aslong as you get a new V2 res you should be ok!

Im impressed my 750 V4 pump can handle my graphics cards too, saves me a tonne of cash!

So so tempted but waterblocks for my GPU's are hard to find and also fitting another radiator in is going to be interesting in my 600T. The only place for it is the front intake which would need a 200mm radiator


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> Here's mine so you can see how it looks fitted if your interested
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very clean build, a build log would show it off nicely.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> One with twin D5's and a 360 rad (AX360). I believe you can also mod the Cosmos 2 to fit a 480 in the top.
> 
> link
> 
> 
> 
> Why does he need a TWIN D5 kit? That's well overkill surely?
Click to expand...

I run two D5's, mainly for redundancy. Apparently there really isn't much difference in output pressure using two D5s, unless you have the D5 Strong 24v. pumps. running at 24v., using a 24v. controller.
But that gets even more expensive.
I agree that many builds don't need two pumps though. I didn't know that XSPC was selling a dual-D5 version of their kits now, if the price is competitive, it may offer a good value for those looking for a dual-pump setup.


----------



## Lutfij

Dercom - The dual D5 copper kit is around $400 on FCPU - might wanna check it out









Darlyrese - regarding the 750L v4 pump its a very strong contender among in house built pumps in a bay res package. Unbeatable performance for its price. Does have the odd hiccups like the whine noticeable to those paying attention to their machines







but for the price you can't really complain! If you're planning a second rad mount, my advice is to have it mounted outside off the back. That way you'll have it intake some cool ambient air. Helps with the temps and makes the full cover block for the GPU a worthwhile investment. Full covers may seem expensive but the temp drop you see and the overclocking headroom you get is rewarding two-fold.

Just took a glance at your GPU specs. I think there's a thinkcell thread up on EK's thinkcell going on about releasing full cover water blocks for the DirectCU cards, dunno which GTX lineup though


----------



## Darylrese

Thanks again mate!

I have been searching high and low, the only block i've found in stock in my country is this one:

http://www.thecoolingshop.com/product_info/EK-FC670-GTX-DCII-Nickel--Plexi-CSQ-Water-Block-NVIDIA_33275.html

It's pretty ugly. Also as you mentioned, i don't think its a full cover?

Maybe i should just get rid of my GTX 670's eventually and watercool my next set of GPU's


----------



## Lutfij

Yeah that'd be a nice idea. We're just about ready to see GTX 8xx series roll out. having a full cover for that 670 would be pretty old...*pretty* old. You're welcome mate. Just rep me if you think the postage was helpful to you. I'd do the same for you f you passed off useful info as well









oh eyah its full cover!


----------



## KnownDragon

Wished I had installed the drain plug when installing. Now I have a tricky situation on my hand. I have to some how get the fluid drained with out getting it on anything. I don't see how this can be done. I have to disconnect my bottom hose from the radiator outside the case and drain from both ends.







I wished I had listened when I was putting this together.


My advice to anyone would be to wait for another week for a drain plug if you don't have one. It will save you time.


----------



## d1nky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KnownDragon*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Wished I had installed the drain plug when installing. Now I have a tricky situation on my hand. I have to some how get the fluid drained with out getting it on anything. I don't see how this can be done. I have to disconnect my bottom hose from the radiator outside the case and drain from both ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wished I had listened when I was putting this together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My advice to anyone would be to wait for another week for a drain plug if you don't have one. It will save you time.


I made the same mistake, hence why I haven't changed my fittings yet. plus id have to take a lot of stuff out and tilt it a lot!

I think this should be NO.1 TIP to the new!


----------



## KnownDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1nky*
> 
> I made the same mistake, hence why I haven't changed my fittings yet. plus id have to take a lot of stuff out and tilt it a lot!
> 
> I think this should be NO.1 TIP to the new!


I think you are right, number one tip! The only thing going in my favor is my bottom rad can be pulled out a couple of inches but still am dreading this going to have to go to SAMS to get some paper towels and alcohol rubbing and drinking. Might be a budget build for most but by far my most expensive.


----------



## Lutfij

In reality when you're going to do a maintenance run the entire loop would need a tear down thus the reason to remove everything from the inside of the case







since most people find the tubing clouding issue a real eye sore so this tear down I speak of would be further accelerated.

Having a drain line in the case is necessary but not mandatory for simple loops. The complex the loop the more important the drainport is and its subsequent placement.

Anywho - if you're looking for a place to put a t line and have a drain port at the end of it, finding the lowest point of your loop with access to the out side of a case is the number one thing to do when placing one in the loop. A lil modding can go a long way when you have a small hole bored at the bottom area of your case; either routed at the back of the case near the PSU or in front of the PSU but facing the bottom of the case(exterior).

You could always avoid all this and man-up
















Daryl - thanks for the rep'age mate!


----------



## d1nky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> Anywho - if you're looking for a place to put a t line and have a drain port at the end of it, finding the lowest point of your loop with access to the out side of a case is the number one thing to do when placing one in the loop. A lil modding can go a long way when you have a small hole bored at the bottom area of your case; either routed at the back of the case near the PSU or in front of the PSU but facing the bottom of the case(exterior).
> 
> You could always avoid all this and man-up


I like the idea of an underneath sump like drain!

and no I refuse to man up


----------



## jhaze84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KnownDragon*
> 
> Wished I had installed the drain plug when installing. Now I have a tricky situation on my hand. I have to some how get the fluid drained with out getting it on anything. I don't see how this can be done. I have to disconnect my bottom hose from the radiator outside the case and drain from both ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wished I had listened when I was putting this together.
> pic
> 
> My advice to anyone would be to wait for another week for a drain plug if you don't have one. It will save you time.


I think you could do this for your situation:

Put a container on top of your PSU to catch water from that upper-left rad. Disconnect the yellow tube attached to your upper-left rad and let the water from the tube and rad drain out. Then, disconnect the black tube from that same upper-left rad and bring it outside of your case and below case-level. That should siphon most of the remanining water out of your loop.

Should be possible with little to no spills, just keep plenty of paper towels on hand and of course have the computer unplugged.







Also remember a little water on your components is not the end of the world as long as you are powered off and you let them dry thoroughly.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I run two D5's, mainly for redundancy. Apparently there really isn't much difference in output pressure using two D5s, unless you have the D5 Strong 24v. pumps. running at 24v., using a 24v. controller.
> But that gets even more expensive.
> I agree that many builds don't need two pumps though. I didn't know that XSPC was selling a dual-D5 version of their kits now, if the price is competitive, it may offer a good value for those looking for a dual-pump setup.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> Dercom - The dual D5 copper kit is around $400 on FCPU - might wanna check it out











I assume you mean those who don't already have a loop might want to check it out!


----------



## Lutfij

^
Quote:


> I didn't know that XSPC was selling a dual-D5 version of their kits now, if the price is competitive, it may offer a good value for those looking for a dual-pump setup.


thus my postage for the D5 copper check-out suggestion







Even if anyone was opting for a new loop I wouldn't/couldn't find the words to say *buy it*







but dual loop for $400 is pretty borderline for a cheap build with a great lineup of parts seen in most custom setups.

d1nky - lol ok sump drain it is!


----------



## KnownDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jhaze84*
> 
> I think you could do this for your situation:
> 
> Put a container on top of your PSU to catch water from that upper-left rad. Disconnect the yellow tube attached to your upper-left rad and let the water from the tube and rad drain out. Then, disconnect the black tube from that same upper-left rad and bring it outside of your case and below case-level. That should siphon most of the remanining water out of your loop.
> 
> Should be possible with little to no spills, just keep plenty of paper towels on hand and of course have the computer unplugged.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also remember a little water on your components is not the end of the world as long as you are powered off and you let them dry thoroughly.


I didn't think of that, I pretty sure I will be using this method.

Another question though my replacement intel mount kit did not com with any adhesive on the back of the 1155 back mount do I need to do some 3m double sided tape on this?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> ^
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't know that XSPC was selling a dual-D5 version of their kits now, if the price is competitive, it may offer a good value for those looking for a dual-pump setup.
> 
> 
> 
> thus my postage for the D5 copper check-out suggestion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if anyone was opting for a new loop I wouldn't/couldn't find the words to say *buy it*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but dual loop for $400 is pretty borderline for a cheap build with a great lineup of parts seen in most custom setups.
> 
> d1nky - lol ok sump drain it is!
Click to expand...

That is a useful link for those looking for a kit. I have a custom loop, but I considered getting an XSPC kit when I first started out.
As far as kits go, the dual D5's, copper Raystorm, XSPC rad., etc. in that linked kit are quite good parts. I'm not personally fond of bay reservoirs, but in some cases they are needed.


----------



## Lutfij

Yeah I agree! I'm looking towards the Bay res approach for my lil bro's rig due to space constraints. But if I could, I'd build a custom loop with XSPC rads and blocks any day!









knowndragon - its best not to use the adhesive backing on the back of your mobo, just try a bit harder/fiddle with the backplate and get two hands going while mounting your block. You can retain the backplate's adhesion for a future build. Besides the adhesive backing ruins the back of the mobo - bad for blokes trying to sell their boards to someone else after a short run. Good for a permanent worry free instatlation.


----------



## KnownDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> Yeah I agree! I'm looking towards the Bay res approach for my lil bro's rig due to space constraints. But if I could, I'd build a custom loop with XSPC rads and blocks any day!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> knowndragon - its best not to use the adhesive backing on the back of your mobo, just try a bit harder/fiddle with the backplate and get two hands going while mounting your block. You can retain the backplate's adhesion for a future build. Besides the adhesive backing ruins the back of the mobo - bad for blokes trying to sell their boards to someone else after a short run. Good for a permanent worry free instatlation.


Thank You this makes sense not sure if I am going to be keeping the board or not. It is a DZ77gal-70k board. It came up bnib at the right price so I purchased it but very well possible it will be swapped out.


----------



## Lutfij

You're welcome mate!


----------



## bittbull187

My block is gummed up from crap primochill ... The dye came out of suspension... Now to take the raystorm apart.:: ugh so much liquid to drain...


----------



## d1nky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bittbull187*
> 
> My block is gummed up from crap primochill ... The dye came out of suspension... Now to take the raystorm apart.:: ugh so much liquid to drain...


and theres a massive debate about dye and distilled. glad theres one more bit of evidence.


----------



## spikezone2004

After reading all these stories and my friend bought a block from someone and it had some dye ramins in it too, I stuck with just distilled but when I add my gpu block I am going to use Mayhems pastel liquid seems like its just the best one out there


----------



## bond32

Hello folks, I plan to purchase the raystorm extreme rx240 kit this weekend. Only issue is I will be using it in the corsair 540 case, which means the bay res/pump will be sideways with the fill port on the lower side. Now I planned on running it outside till all the air was bled, blah blah but will this be a problem? If so I suppose I can just purchase the other res that fits the D5 pump...

Edit: I'm still not 100% sure, rather about 70% that I need/want the rx240. Is there any reason I should look at the ax series? I see/hear its performance is close to the RX.

Edit again: I will be using sp120 high performance fans, at the moment just 2. So it would seem the EX might be a better choice? Configured the ex kit is $40 cheaper than the RX kit.


----------



## bond32

Another question: configured, the RX kit with a single D5 pump for my needs comes to $282 where the AX kit with twin D5 pumps comes to $357... I will have the following in the loop:

AMD FX6300 (upgrading soon)
2x 79X0 Heatkiller blocks
Swiftech MCR320-XP rad
Possibly an additional swiftech MCR120-XP rad

I am pretty sure with this setup the single D5 pump would be fine, but with the dual setup at that price as well as with the AX rad, would it be a better option to spend the extra?


----------



## jhaze84

AX outperforms EX in just about every bench I've seen. Its pretty much a direct replacement. I would go with AX for high rpm fans and RX for low rpm fans.


----------



## bond32

Thanks. The AX kit is just too expensive for me (dual pumps) so I think I will go with the RX kit.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Thanks. The AX kit is just too expensive for me (dual pumps) so I think I will go with the RX kit.


One D5 provides plenty of performance, I went with two mainly for redundancy. I have an RX240 rad in the front bay, and it's been great, along with the Raystorm. The kit you chose will do well for you.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> One D5 provides plenty of performance, I went with two mainly for redundancy. I have an RX240 rad in the front bay, and it's been great, along with the Raystorm. The kit you chose will do well for you.


Excellent, going to place the order tomorrow. I also am going with the biggest diameter tubing, 1/2 ID 3/4 OD. Any issues with this? I am getting some 90's as I foresee it tough to bend.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> One D5 provides plenty of performance, I went with two mainly for redundancy. I have an RX240 rad in the front bay, and it's been great, along with the Raystorm. The kit you chose will do well for you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent, going to place the order tomorrow. I also am going with the biggest diameter tubing, 1/2 ID 3/4 OD. Any issues with this? I am getting some 90's as I foresee it tough to bend.
Click to expand...

That's my favorite size, for the looks. No issues with the 1/2 x 3/4 Dureleen tubing. You'll likely need the 90's, I have something like four in mine, I'll have to check my build log!








The Raystorm block has been great.
Looking forward to seeing yours!.


----------



## NIK1

Tonight I am going to order the XSPC Copper Raystorm AX240 Extreme Intel CPU Water Cooling Kit w/ Twin D5 pumps.Any suggestions on what liquid I should get. I like the look of colored ones, but I heard some nasty things can happen to them. Let me know what you suggest about the coolant, and anything else I might need to slap her into my Cosmos 2 case..


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Tonight I am going to order the XSPC Copper Raystorm AX240 Extreme Intel CPU Water Cooling Kit w/ Twin D5 pumps.Any suggestions on what liquid I should get. I like the look of colored ones, but I heard some nasty things can happen to them. Let me know what you suggest about the coolant, and anything else I might need to slap her into my Cosmos 2 case..


Good choice.








I'd recommend Mayhems coolant, it's been doing well in my system. Color is up to you, their Pastel White is great stuff.


----------



## bond32

Placed the order this morning, Raystorm RX 240 kit with the D5 pump. Pretty excited.


----------



## KnownDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Placed the order this morning, Raystorm RX 240 kit with the D5 pump. Pretty excited.


This is awesome but don't make the mistake I did by not putting a drain fitting into the loop. I am doing platform change later today and I have to drain this.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






It is only a 3.00 to 8.00 part and well worth the kick in the rear you will give yourself later.


----------



## Darylrese

I too don't have a draining port. How are you going to drain yours mate?


----------



## KnownDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> I too don't have a draining port. How are you going to drain yours mate?


Going to start with the top rad with the yellow hose first the the blue on. Have a container to catch the drain and hope for the best. Got this advice from a fellow ocn here on this thread.


----------



## bond32

Yep, thanks. I already was on top of things, just ordered a tee fitting and a plug.


----------



## kizwan

My drain port. Consist of:-

Enzotech 3-way adapter
Koolance male-to-male rotary (swiveling) adapter
Koolance ball valve


----------



## mironccr345

I'm using Quick Disconnects to drain my loop.


----------



## kizwan

Nice!







I was considering quick disconnect too (Koolance Quick Disconnect). Not just for draining but easy access to top radiator for cleaning (dust).


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I'm using Quick Disconnects to drain my loop.


I have a question, what is the difference to quick disconnect and normal drain valve port?


----------



## Darylrese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I'm using Quick Disconnects to drain my loop.


How does it work? I understand it stops flow when disconnected and enables it when reconnected so if you disconnect the valve shuts off...how do you open it to drain?


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> How does it work? I understand it stops flow when disconnected and enables it when reconnected so if you disconnect the valve shuts off...how do you open it to drain?


You have another set of disconnects with just tube attached to it. When you want to drain plug it in and drain into a bowl. From what I have read, getting ready to buy equipment soon so let me know if I am wrong


----------



## Darylrese

Oh i get it now....good idea!! Might have to look into that when i change my loop to include my GPU's!


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> I have a question, what is the difference to quick disconnect and normal drain valve port?


BUmp


----------



## bond32

I assume a normal drain valve is a physical valve you turn which drains fluid, no disconnecting or reconnecting needed. Quick connects you are just putting a male and female in the lowest portion, and you can drain from both ends of the loop when you disconnect it.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I assume a normal drain valve is a physical valve you turn which drains fluid, no disconnecting or reconnecting needed. Quick connects you are just putting a male and female in the lowest portion, and you can drain from both ends of the loop when you disconnect it.


Yeah make sense,







thanks for clearing it up mate.


----------



## bond32

No problem, the advantage would go to the quick connect giving the ability to drain it much quicker. I personally ordered a tee fitting and a cap as it was cheaper than the drain valves, and much cheaper than the quick connects.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Yeah make sense,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for clearing it up mate.


Here is another way to show you how QDC work as drain port.

This is QDC (male & female) connected to complete the loop. When connected the valve on both sides remain open to allow coolant to flow.


To drain, first need to disconnect the QDC. The valve on both sides will automatically closed to stop the flow.


Next step to actually drain the loop, you'll need extra male/female QDC with tube attached to it. When you connected the extra male/female QDC to the loop, the valve will open & the coolant will flow out from the loop.

This is another way to use QDC as drain port. A male/female QDC attached to the loop via T-adapter (or 3-way adapter). This picture show a male QDC. Just connect a female QDC to drain the loop.


The advantage of QDC against ball valve is that you can disassemble your loop without draining. For example you want to clean the dust on radiator, with QDCs, you can disconnect that radiator from your loop without draining the loop.


----------



## KnownDragon

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Here is another way to show you how QDC work as drain port.
> 
> This is QDC (male & female) connected to complete the loop. When connected the valve on both sides remain open to allow coolant to flow.
> 
> 
> To drain, first need to disconnect the QDC. The valve on both sides will automatically closed to stop the flow.
> 
> 
> Next step to actually drain the loop, you'll need extra male/female QDC with tube attached to it. When you connected the extra male/female QDC to the loop, the valve will open & the coolant will flow out from the loop.
> 
> This is another way to use QDC as drain port. A male/female QDC attached to the loop via T-adapter (or 3-way adapter). This picture show a male QDC. Just connect a female QDC to drain the loop.
> 
> 
> The advantage of QDC against ball valve is that you can disassemble your loop without draining. For example you want to clean the dust on radiator, with QDCs, you can disconnect that radiator from your loop without draining the loop.





+Rep Thank you for sharing. Does this add more restriction then normal compression fittings?


----------



## Ehpik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Here is another way to show you how QDC work as drain port.
> 
> This is QDC (male & female) connected to complete the loop. When connected the valve on both sides remain open to allow coolant to flow.
> 
> 
> To drain, first need to disconnect the QDC. The valve on both sides will automatically closed to stop the flow.
> 
> 
> Next step to actually drain the loop, you'll need extra male/female QDC with tube attached to it. When you connected the extra male/female QDC to the loop, the valve will open & the coolant will flow out from the loop.
> 
> This is another way to use QDC as drain port. A male/female QDC attached to the loop via T-adapter (or 3-way adapter). This picture show a male QDC. Just connect a female QDC to drain the loop.
> 
> 
> The advantage of QDC against ball valve is that you can disassemble your loop without draining. For example you want to clean the dust on radiator, with QDCs, you can disconnect that radiator from your loop without draining the loop.


Once I start adding more to my loop, I'm going to do this.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KnownDragon*
> 
> +Rep Thank you for sharing. Does this add more restriction then normal compression fittings?


They have low restriction. skinneelabs.com done a nice roundup review on quick disconnect but the website no longer up.
_(Source: *[ Here ]*)_


----------



## mironccr345

QD's are the way to go imo. Especially if you have to trouble shoot the GPU/CPU. I ran into a problem with my 680 and had to RMA it. Took the card out and installed my 460's until the new/refurbished card arrived. No down time at all.









Built my buddies rig.


My rig.


----------



## bond32

Got my kit in today and installed. Had a disaster happen when a tiny o ring wasn't seated in my crossfire connector, cause a big leak. Tore the other ring but I was able to repair it. Also one of my xspc 90 degree swivel fittings kept leaking so using the swiftech ones now. Let me know what you guys think.








[/URL]


----------



## d1nky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Got my kit in today and installed. Had a disaster happen when a tiny o ring wasn't seated in my crossfire connector, cause a big leak. Tore the other ring but I was able to repair it. Also one of my xspc 90 degree swivel fittings kept leaking so using the swiftech ones now. Let me know what you guys think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]


good to see you've gone up in the world, that looks beastly!


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1nky*
> 
> good to see you've gone up in the world, that looks beastly!


Ha thanks, already running a prime stable 5 ghz overclock on the fx8350. Has made me nervous, this kit, just because of the unexpected leaks and the tubing size was wayyyyyyy bigger than what I had in mind. But I am happy with the results.


----------



## KnownDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Got my kit in today and installed. Had a disaster happen when a tiny o ring wasn't seated in my crossfire connector, cause a big leak. Tore the other ring but I was able to repair it. Also one of my xspc 90 degree swivel fittings kept leaking so using the swiftech ones now. Let me know what you guys think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]


I had to give you a +rep for being able to squeeze all that in the case. I am sure you have already done it but order back ups on the O-rings. Congrats and how about temps at 5ghz under load?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KnownDragon*
> 
> I had to give you a +rep for being able to squeeze all that in the case. I am sure you have already done it but order back ups on the O-rings. Congrats and how about temps at 5ghz under load?


Thanks! Core temp was 61 C during full prime small fft. I'm actually surprised it didn't take more voltage for these clocks to be stable... Also I will have to hunt down those o-rings. May need to go to Heatkiller themselves.

http://valid.canardpc.com/2896992


----------



## bond32

How tight should the Raystorm block be? I have it on my amd fx 8350, put it pretty tight to what I thought it should be and I see it looks bent. Should it be THAT tight?


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> How tight should the Raystorm block be? I have it on my amd fx 8350, put it pretty tight to what I thought it should be and I see it looks bent. Should it be THAT tight?


Nope, once it starts bending or, "bowing," it's too tight.


----------



## SkipP

I have an FX-8150 and I recently purchased a Raystorm. I have the same Swiftech 360 rad, a danger den pump, a Koolance tube res, PrimoChill tubing, and Switfech fittings, save for two swivel-type Bitspower fittings and one Bitspower ball valve for a drain.

I do not have a spare PSU to fill the system. How do I check all of this stuff for leaks before I install it? I do not want to be left out in the cold by ruining an expensive component. Money is tight and I just emptied what I had after my phone got stolen (no insurance, no upgrade until May and I must keep the expensive data plan or pay contract breaking fee).

This is a simple CPU loop, oh, save for the fact that I have a Cooler Master Elite 430 and planned to use a Swiftech rad box (already bought) and keep the rad out of the case. I can either punch out the tube holes above my graphics card or use my Koolance expansion slot adapter (which will require that a use a single set of barbs I bought or buy two more fittings). The Koolance adapter can be used in the bottom slot, which I find appealing that it is not above my graphics card, but then again my CPU is already there.

Does anyone have any good rad box ideas? More importantly, how can I leak test before installing? Furthermore, do I need another PS so I can fill with the machine unplugged?


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkipP*
> 
> I have an FX-8150 and I recently purchased a Raystorm. I have the same Swiftech 360 rad, a danger den pump, a Koolance tube res, PrimoChill tubing, and Switfech fittings, save for two swivel-type Bitspower fittings and one Bitspower ball valve for a drain.
> 
> I do not have a spare PSU to fill the system. How do I check all of this stuff for leaks before I install it? I do not want to be left out in the cold by ruining an expensive component. Money is tight and I just emptied what I had after my phone got stolen (no insurance, no upgrade until May and I must keep the expensive data plan or pay contract breaking fee).
> 
> This is a simple CPU loop, oh, save for the fact that I have a Cooler Master Elite 430 and planned to use a Swiftech rad box (already bought) and keep the rad out of the case. I can either punch out the tube holes above my graphics card or use my Koolance expansion slot adapter (which will require that a use a single set of barbs I bought or buy two more fittings). The Koolance adapter can be used in the bottom slot, which I find appealing that it is not above my graphics card, but then again my CPU is already there.
> 
> Does anyone have any good rad box ideas? More importantly, how can I leak test before installing? Furthermore, do I need another PS so I can fill with the machine unplugged?


You can do the simple paper clip loop over or empty bare wire loop over the main psu mobo plug to bypass and run it... one way thou. Look it up on utube


----------



## bond32

Those of you with the D5 pump, what speed do you run it at?


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Those of you with the D5 pump, what speed do you run it at?


2 or 3 is fine for me, but you have 2 GPU's in your loop (right?), so you might need to crank it up to 4 or higher. Just watch the temperatures at different speeds and see for yourself how high you need to set it.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> 2 or 3 is fine for me, but you have 2 GPU's in your loop (right?), so you might need to crank it up to 4 or higher. Just watch the temperatures at different speeds and see for yourself how high you need to set it.


I was running it on 2, noticed the gpu temps got to 48 on crysis 3 (all settings maxed). Never saw them get that high. I bumped it to 4 for now.


----------



## bond32

Morning project: changing a few things in the loop. Flipped radiator around and plumbed the gpu's to be in parallel. In the process, I looked down in the raystorm block to find plastic threads... a lot. I'll chalk this up to poor manufacturing but its pretty bad considering I haven't been running this but maybe 2 weeks now. And no nothing was stripped or crossthread, just had a ton of plastic threads inside the block.


----------



## d1nky

they tell you to flush all components first and people suggest doing a mock run first, then drain after.


----------



## bond32

There's no way flushing or draining would get that out. It was coiled plastic threads inside the block. The copper base also had plastic inside it.

I've since taken it apart and should be fine for now.


----------



## bond32

Man, today is not my day. Put everything back together to find frighteningly high cpu temps. I knew right away I had not put the cpu block back together correctly.

Bleeding the air out yet again now. Hope it's all as it should be after reassembling it.


----------



## bittbull187

be vigilant hehe i got my direction confused on my gpu's loop.... ugh


----------



## Lutfij

Its always advised to inspect your blocks no matter how new and shinny they may appear after a purchase or a sale...always open up your blocks to see if there are any metal/POM/plastic shavings...might also be a word of caution to those using nickeled parts to see if the block had any signs of tarnishings or chippings.

That way you're not blamed at the end of the dead end via the company rep when you're looking for salvation









My 2 cents though.

Regarding the D5 speed dial settings - even though I run an Aquacomputer 360 copper AMS, alongside a copper Raystorm - I have mine set to 2.


----------



## Tacoma

I brought the Corsair H110 first for cooling the 4770k but after a week I felt that its not for me. Ordered the xpcs raystorm d5 ax240. First time water cooling and loving it. A few hours after finally able to use the computer (leak test). I having the "bug". Now I want to also cool my evga 780 sc acx.

Still deciding which water block to buy. Any suggestion guys?


----------



## Clockwerk

I would suggest the heatkiller blocks. Have one for my 670 and it is fantastic. Lots of people around here use ek blocks as well with good results. Might want to look into adding a bit more radiator if you are adding gpu to loop. A 240 rad would be the absolute minimum and generally a 360 is recommended for a cpu/gpu loop. Welcome to the addiction of watercooling 

Edit: also add me to the club. Pic of loop with raystorm below.


----------



## bond32

Heatkiller gpu blocks are top notch. I have 2 79x0 nickel blocks, they are fantastic full coverage. Very heavy too.

Actually trying to sell my 2 if anyone is interested... Have backplates too.


----------



## Tacoma

Still got room for a 140 in the back and 360 in the front. I am thinking of buying the 360 rad after buying a 780 block. A cool down period I might say.

Ill take a look at the heatkiller thanks!


----------



## Clockwerk

Strongly recommend backplates. As mentioned a few posts ago they are heavy blocks.


----------



## Lutfij

Tacoma

Before heeding any of our recommendations I'd strongly suggest heading up with the compatibility chart of the waterblock makers to see if the full cover blocks fit your GPU. I've seen many instances of non-reference pcb's throwing spanners into the works of a beautiful build like yours.

I'd also suggest EK
XSPC razers
Swiftech Komodo's

and I'll see fi I can break it down or you.

Heatkillers are top performing blocks - they also look stellar with all their blingyness
XSPC razers are also the bomb with their proprietary lighting and they are the least restrictive blocks out there.
Swiftech Komodo's or most commonly known around the EVGA camp as the hydrocoppers - are the most restrictive blocks int the market. Even though they look cool with their sleek design and minimal lighting. They can be considered for systems with paralleled flow sin their loop.
Aplahcool also make some cool looking blocks that you can get your hands on on Performance PC's and are available in some nice brushed finishes.
EK's well they're all about the aesthetics.

On a system with cards pcb facing the top of the case I'd also opt fr the backplate and int eh process go with the alpahacool blocks.

My 2 cents bro!


----------



## Tacoma

Hey thanks for the opinion and explanation. Much appreciate for taking a few min to explain man! Not many does that. Guess I am in a good forum









I did decided to get the EVGA hydro copper and also ordered the back plate as suggested. Was thinking of changing the tube size but 7/16 5/8 still look good IMO so brought a few more fittings for the hydro copper and a xspc AX360 rad. Going to have fun next week.


----------



## Lutfij

You're welcome mate, just helping out a fellow watercooler out to begin with and have an interesting experience!

Post back here or better yet - have a build log detailing your progress


----------



## BabylonDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Morning project: changing a few things in the loop. Flipped radiator around and plumbed the gpu's to be in parallel. In the process, I looked down in the raystorm block to find plastic threads... a lot. I'll chalk this up to poor manufacturing but its pretty bad considering I haven't been running this but maybe 2 weeks now. And no nothing was stripped or crossthread, just had a ton of plastic threads inside the block.


What case is this? I love the build. It's fantastic!


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BabylonDown*
> 
> What case is this? I love the build. It's fantastic!


That looks like a Corsair Air 540.


----------



## bond32

Correct, Corsair 540. It's all in pieces right now, have new Intel board and 4770k coming this week. Also added a 120mm rad to the back.


----------



## Tacoma

I love my 540 also but its a bish to get rid of air with the xspc pump/res combo.

@bond32, what kind of 120 rad you'll be getting? I am planning to get an 140 after my 360 but I have to do some measurement to see if it actually fit or I have to get an 120.


----------



## joshontech

hey guys just asking here but would it be possible to add a gpu to my raystorm XSPC X20 750 (Black Revision 4) pump all I have now is my cpu cooled with a 240 rad I was just gonna grab another 240 rad and slap on a gpu to my loop.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tacoma*
> 
> I love my 540 also but its a bish to get rid of air with the xspc pump/res combo.
> 
> @bond32, what kind of 120 rad you'll be getting? I am planning to get an 140 after my 360 but I have to do some measurement to see if it actually fit or I have to get an 120.


I have the swiftech extreme performance one. It's a tight fit, not sure if a 140 would fit. Plus with the rx rad I had to put the fan on the outside. I'll post pictures later.




Edit: I might even put the fans for the rx rad up top then the single rad fan would fit on the inside.


----------



## jakstak

Here are my Raystorms


----------



## f16-r1

My Raystorm!
http://s253.photobucket.com/user/f16-r1/media/Picture8.jpg.html


----------



## p33k

Here is my raystorm. It seemed to take a good bit of force to get the screws to reach the plate to be able screw it in. Much more than I thought it would. Is that common?


----------



## EliteReplay

hi can the XSPC Raystorm be put on the top of a Corsair 600T? is there any picture of it?


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> hi can the XSPC Raystorm be put on the top of a Corsair 600T? is there any picture of it?


Of course. Any 240 rad should fit in the top.


----------



## EliteReplay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> Of course. Any 240 rad should fit in the top.


would i have any issue with the RAD touching motherboard VRM headsink or Memory headsink?


----------



## Tacoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> would i have any issue with the RAD touching motherboard VRM headsink or Memory headsink?


Below are a pic I found online. Top is an XSPC RS240 and the front is an Phobya Xtreme 200. As for your question. I suggest getting out an ruler and a piece of paper. Measure all of the dimension yourself. Remember to covert inch (what ever you use) to mm.


----------



## EliteReplay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tacoma*
> 
> Below are a pic I found online. Top is an XSPC RS240 and the front is an Phobya Xtreme 200. As for your question. I suggest getting out an ruler and a piece of paper. Measure all of the dimension yourself. Remember to covert inch (what ever you use) to mm.


thanks man,

what version is that one? i dont recall that WT kit have two radiators tho...
and on the corsair 600t thread, they told me i will be able to fit on the top the RS EX not the RX because is to thick.

is there to much performance difference between the RX and EX tho?


----------



## Tacoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> thanks man,
> 
> what version is that one? i dont recall that WT kit have two radiators tho...
> and on the corsair 600t thread, they told me i will be able to fit on the top the RS EX not the RX because is to thick.
> 
> is there to much performance difference between the RX and EX tho?


The kit does not come with 2 rad. Just giving you some heads up that you can also install another rad in the front. The RX240 has the depth is 63mm and the EX240 has 35.5

You cant mount an RX on top. I saw multiple thread that mounted an RS240 (Dimensions: 121x35x277mm). Best thing is to open up your computer and start measuring. Not everyone has the same setup as you. Go to XSPC and look at all of their 240 radiator dimension.

Below are a pic from benny6.7

He has RS240 on top and RX240 on the front. I saw a few more thread that use EX240 rad in front.

[/quote]

.
This is what I mean by measure your stuff. I can only put a credit card through both of the rad. Now if I have ordered an little bigger 360 rad (Front) I would have a major problem.


----------



## Jflisk

I have a XSPC Raystorm EX240 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit w/ D5 Variant Pump coming in Monday to install in my system any gotchas I should look out for. Also thinking about adding a 140mm rad in the back of my case for the 2XGPU. So I am thinking res>pump>rad 2x120 >cpu>rad 140mm >gpu 1>gpu 2 >res. Any body with any thoughts on this one. Thanks


----------



## Tacoma

I changed my flow a few times and imo i dont think theres an difference in the flow but only res before pump.


----------



## TSXmike

http://s5.photobucket.com/user/blackaccordlx/media/IMGP3713_zpsb12c9d4e.jpg.html


----------



## d1nky

got to love monsoons, but damn they scratch easy!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TSXmike*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s5.photobucket.com/user/blackaccordlx/media/IMGP3713_zpsb12c9d4e.jpg.html


Nice pic TSX.


----------



## bond32

D5 is pushing a lot of flow now! Needs to at least...


----------



## Jflisk

Is that a 140 radiator on the back if so how is that for cooling the GPUs. I have 2x 7970 that I am going to add into the loop but I am limited for space I have a 240 radiator for my CPU. Was thinking about adding a 140mm rad after CPU for GPUs. Thanks


----------



## bond32

For your setup I would recommend a little more than a single 140. Mine is a single 120, 140 wouldn't fit. 2x240's minimum for you, more would be ideal like a 360 and a 240.


----------



## Jflisk

Thanks for you help


----------



## 06TSX

Here is my rig. Just stepped into the watercooling world yesterday. XSPC raystorm x20 750 on FX-8150 and 7970, 2x ex240 rads (top and front), Heatkiller 79x0 water block, 500R case

May need to dive into a D5 once I go crossfire.

http://s13.photobucket.com/user/rylan05/media/PC Build/IMAG0329.jpg.html


----------



## KnownDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *06TSX*
> 
> Here is my rig. Just stepped into the watercooling world yesterday. XSPC raystorm x20 750 on FX-8150 and 7970, 2x ex240 rads (top and front), Heatkiller 79x0 water block, 500R case
> 
> May need to dive into a D5 once I go crossfire.
> 
> http://s13.photobucket.com/user/rylan05/media/PC Build/IMAG0329.jpg.html


Sweet set up.


----------



## d1nky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> D5 is pushing a lot of flow now! Needs to at least...


its addictive aint it lol

your rig has come a long way in a short time, looks great!

those rads would love push/pull and it wont be long before you decide you need a new case









then you can have a couple res' , dual pump and some bling


----------



## skitz9417

hi guys and gals im just wondering i get the corsair air540 case soon and im wondering would this be able to cool my cpu (i7 3820) and im getting a gtx 580 3gb tomoz would be able to cool them both what do u think it can cool them both XSPC Raystorm 750 EX360 Water Cooling Kit


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1nky*
> 
> its addictive aint it lol
> 
> your rig has come a long way in a short time, looks great!
> 
> those rads would love push/pull and it wont be long before you decide you need a new case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then you can have a couple res' , dual pump and some bling


Lol dangit, youre right. I already want a new case despite the fact I love the 540.

Possibly next upgrade would be a second pump but for now I need to stop lol.


----------



## Jflisk

I have a question anyone use liquid utopia for there water and if so what is the mixture ratio to avoid the nasties. I am going to be mixing it with 1 gallon distilled. Thanks


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitz9417*
> 
> hi guys and gals im just wondering i get the corsair air540 case soon and im wondering would this be able to cool my cpu (i7 3820) and im getting a gtx 580 3gb tomoz would be able to cool them both what do u think it can cool them both XSPC Raystorm 750 EX360 Water Cooling Kit


Yes.


----------



## d1nky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Lol dangit, youre right. I already want a new case despite the fact I love the 540.
> 
> Possibly next upgrade would be a second pump but for now I need to stop lol.


stop?! you haven't even got started!!

my loop got started, shet happened and well itll be getting slowly finished the rest of the year. plus another mod is in planning mode!


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1nky*
> 
> stop?! you haven't even got started!!
> 
> my loop got started, shet happened and well itll be getting slowly finished the rest of the year. plus another mod is in planning mode!


Nice, keep us posted. Really liking this xspc kit, did you get one?


----------



## d1nky

yea its a great start up kit, I got the X20 pump/res, rs240 rad and HWlabs 360 GTX, phobya res.

already need/want a D5 with small res to go near the sidepanel under the rear exhaust, then a 140 rad above while linked to tri 79** blocked cards.

fitted with all monsoons and angled fittings

get the case dipped or sprayed, might carbon rap the rads, and whatever inspiration I get before then!


----------



## bond32

Dang, sounds like a full plate. Should turn out darn good. I opted for the swiftech 360, almost wish I had got a thick rad instead.

I had to RMA one of my 7950's. Also sent the haswell and board back in exchange for a 3770k and gigabyte board. Comes in tomorrow... Going to be a busy day


----------



## joshontech

240mm and 360mm rad with a CPU and GPU water block will the xspc x20 750 be able to handle that setup? My tube is 7/16 by 5/8 and I have 1/2 inch barbs. I will be using at the most 6 feet of tubing.


----------



## d1nky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshontech*
> 
> 240mm and 360mm rad with a CPU and GPU water block will the xspc x20 750 be able to handle that setup? My tube is 7/16 by 5/8 and I have 1/2 inch barbs. I will be using at the most 6 feet of tubing.


im on a restrictive 360 and rs240 rad, res and longish loop. tbh I think its at limits, I seen the return flow isn't great and flow in general looks slow.

if you kept the loop short, no kinks or sharp bends it may work but not optimally

pics in sig


----------



## EliteReplay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tacoma*
> 
> The kit does not come with 2 rad. Just giving you some heads up that you can also install another rad in the front. The RX240 has the depth is 63mm and the EX240 has 35.5
> 
> You cant mount an RX on top. I saw multiple thread that mounted an RS240 (Dimensions: 121x35x277mm). Best thing is to open up your computer and start measuring. Not everyone has the same setup as you. Go to XSPC and look at all of their 240 radiator dimension.
> 
> Below are a pic from benny6.7
> 
> He has RS240 on top and RX240 on the front. I saw a few more thread that use EX240 rad in front.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


.
This is what I mean by measure your stuff. I can only put a credit card through both of the rad. Now if I have ordered an little bigger 360 rad (Front) I would have a major problem.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



[/quote]



*so this is the one that i need to buy?*
http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Raystorm-Universal-Watercooling-Radiator/dp/B008GMDBWS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2MJZ6PCINSTAD&coliid=I2KJB17CPXUZOX


----------



## skitz9417

hi guys im thinking of getting a xspc water kit and im just asking would it be stupid to mount one on top of my case


----------



## KnownDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitz9417*
> 
> hi guys im thinking of getting a xspc water kit and im just asking would it be stupid to mount one on top of my case


Are you speaking of the pump/Res or radiator. I wouldn't think it stupid as long as you made it look like it belong there. I too need to expand my loop and after adding a 7950 there is no room. Looking for additional ways to install my kit.


----------



## d1nky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitz9417*
> 
> hi guys im thinking of getting a xspc water kit and im just asking would it be stupid to mount one on top of my case


and what case is it?

I hard modded my zalman to have the rad outside on top, wouldn't fit anywhere else.


----------



## skitz9417

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KnownDragon*
> 
> Are you speaking of the pump/Res or radiator. I wouldn't think it stupid as long as you made it look like it belong there. I too need to expand my loop and after adding a 7950 there is no room. Looking for additional ways to install my kit.


i mean the raditor


----------



## skitz9417

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1nky*
> 
> and what case is it?
> 
> I hard modded my zalman to have the rad outside on top, wouldn't fit anywhere else.


and this is my case http://www.stormcomputers.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=42_358&products_id=3687


----------



## KnownDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitz9417*
> 
> and this is my case http://www.stormcomputers.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=42_358&products_id=3687


I I like the way that case looks. When it came to mine I bought on looks not specs. I don't know if I would put it on top of that case because of the design. I have seen some cases with a side mounted radiator. In my case though http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?p=CA-G921RBR&c=fr&pid=906c98d88f6163461df6fd4e7afc9eba63ad12f9f7f42351b39b80fb42fff0ed&gclid=CLm60vbE0rkCFatj7AodazMAYw I think the easiest way I can add more radiators is by doing a stand for it. getting rid of my two 120 rads and putting two of these in http://www.xoxide.com/xspc-ax360triplefanradiator-black.html with a res in with it. I have seen it done and think I can blend it into my case easier.


----------



## skitz9417

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KnownDragon*
> 
> I I like the way that case looks. When it came to mine I bought on looks not specs. I don't know if I would put it on top of that case because of the design. I have seen some cases with a side mounted radiator. In my case though http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?p=CA-G921RBR&c=fr&pid=906c98d88f6163461df6fd4e7afc9eba63ad12f9f7f42351b39b80fb42fff0ed&gclid=CLm60vbE0rkCFatj7AodazMAYw I think the easiest way I can add more radiators is by doing a stand for it. getting rid of my two 120 rads and putting two of these in http://www.xoxide.com/xspc-ax360triplefanradiator-black.html with a res in with it. I have seen it done and think I can blend it into my case easier.


well what i was thinking is drill a couple of hole and get these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321054367788?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

and then mount the raditor on there


----------



## KnownDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitz9417*
> 
> well what i was thinking is drill a couple of hole and get these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321054367788?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
> 
> and then mount the raditor on there


That would def do the job.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitz9417*
> 
> well what i was thinking is drill a couple of hole and get these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321054367788?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
> 
> and then mount the raditor on there


My XSPC D5 EX240 kit came with that mounting kit.


----------



## skitz9417

yea i think this one does as well http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_45&products_id=21056

and can it cool my cpu (i7 3820) and a gtx 580 both at stock and i may oc my cpu later on


----------



## EliteReplay

hi i have a Corsair 600T is this the kit i have to buy thanks?> http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Raystorm-Universal-Watercooling-Radiator/dp/B008GMDBWS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2MJZ6PCINSTAD&coliid=I2KJB17CPXUZOX


----------



## bond32

Upgrades installed:


----------



## d1nky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Upgrades installed:


whats new?!

I see you've moved the fan to pull on the 120rad.

your build is actually similar to how I want mine to finish.

but I tend to go 3770k, my case, bright red, black and white.

and all the rads, modding I can afford lol


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1nky*
> 
> whats new?!
> 
> I see you've moved the fan to pull on the 120rad.
> 
> your build is actually similar to how I want mine to finish.
> 
> but I tend to go 3770k, my case, bright red, black and white.
> 
> and all the rads, modding I can afford lol


Yep, lol. Theres a 3770k in there. Sent the haswell back. Also have the gigabyte ga-z77 up7 board in there. Utterly sick setup. Already at 5 ghz. Not stable but there.

Also did push pull on the single rad now.


Edit: Actually just ordered a tank res. Going to use it over the bay res. With this 540 case, bleeding the air out with the reservoir sideways is a challenge.


----------



## kanaks

Its alive! Including the infamous XSPC Raystorm coupled with the Alu bracket.









With the blue stop on top of the res like a pro, due to leak issue


----------



## Jflisk

Kanakas system looks nice. Just got done my new build yesterday.


----------



## kanaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Kanakas system looks nice. Just got done my new build yesterday.


Thanks, give us the photos Jflisk!


----------



## Lutfij

kanaks - mind showing us to your build log ?


----------



## Jflisk

Her goes some pictures

Going to change the one black fan with a Noctua


Pump D5


Full build log with all the Mods

http://www.overclock.net/t/1427024/build-log-what-the-frac-tical-design-black-pearl-r1#post_20838116

I have to add at least one more 120mm radiator into the case. The 7970 6GB are putting out a lot of Watts.

Res/Pump D5> 240MM radiator >Amd FX9590 5.0GHZ (220W) >240MM radiator >(the 120mm rad I am going to add here)> 2x 7970 6gb cards(300W x 2= 600W) >res.

Anybody with any thought on the configuration above.

AMD 9590 under load 65c max with OCCT
2x7970 6gb EZ Boost on 1100mhz core clock.Under load with MSI combustor or Furmark 91C ( This is why I am adding the one more 120mm rad)

Thanks


----------



## kanaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> kanaks - mind showing us to your build log ?


But it is in Greek








http://www.thelab.gr/cases-psu-and-mods/supernouva-the-project-124066.html


----------



## Lutfij

Never FEAR! Google translate is here


----------



## spikezone2004

I have a EK supremacy GPU block that I want to add to my loop but I want to make sure I keep my psi up to keep good flow and good cooling. I have the X20 750 Rev4 dualbay/res pump with the RX240 radiator which is rather thick but little restriction I believe .10 psi.

Will the pump be able to handle the cpu, gpu, and rad keeping the psi above a gallon per minute for optimal cooling? I believe the XSPC cpu block has rather high restriction .40ish I cant remember, and I couldnt find the restriction for the gpu block.


----------



## 06TSX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> I have a EK supremacy GPU block that I want to add to my loop but I want to make sure I keep my psi up to keep good flow and good cooling. I have the X20 750 Rev4 dualbay/res pump with the RX240 radiator which is rather thick but little restriction I believe .10 psi.
> 
> Will the pump be able to handle the cpu, gpu, and rad keeping the psi above a gallon per minute for optimal cooling? I believe the XSPC cpu block has rather high restriction .40ish I cant remember, and I couldnt find the restriction for the gpu block.


I heard the raystorm block was pretty good for flow and not restrictive. I have the same res/x20 750pump as you and have the raystorm cpu block along with a heatkiller gpu block and 2 ex240 rads. Not sure of what my pressure is on my system but my setup runs relatively cool.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *06TSX*
> 
> I heard the raystorm block was pretty good for flow and not restrictive. I have the same res/x20 750pump as you and have the raystorm cpu block along with a heatkiller gpu block and 2 ex240 rads. Not sure of what my pressure is on my system but my setup runs relatively cool.


what temps do you get on cpu and gpu?

I was thinking of adding a second rad down the line. I think when I get new tubing and/or fluid I will add my new gpu block into my loop then, hopefully it wont raise my cpu temps too much. Right now I have my gpu on my 620 and get 47-53c


----------



## 06TSX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> what temps do you get on cpu and gpu?
> 
> I was thinking of adding a second rad down the line. I think when I get new tubing and/or fluid I will add my new gpu block into my loop then, hopefully it wont raise my cpu temps too much. Right now I have my gpu on my 620 and get 47-53c


I have an fx-8150 clocked to 4.1 with temps idle at 36 and loaded at 48C. Gpu temps with 7970 overclocked I see 34 idle and loaded 43C. I think they could be a little cooler with a better pump.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *06TSX*
> 
> I have an fx-8150 clocked to 4.1 with temps idle at 36 and loaded at 48C. Gpu temps with 7970 overclocked I see 34 idle and loaded 43C. I think they could be a little cooler with a better pump.


Whats your Vcore when stress testing?


----------



## 06TSX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> Whats your Vcore when stress testing?


I will have to check next time I do it. Didn't pay attention. Everything is stock settings except I used the multiplier to bump it from 18 to 20.5.


----------



## 06TSX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> Whats your Vcore when stress testing?


Did you mean Vcore temps?


----------



## spikezone2004

Vcore voltage


----------



## pc-illiterate

Has anyone mounted in both 'normal' and 90* rotated? If you have, have you noticed a temp difference. I was reading martins review and it showed the block bow in the Tim spread. I would really like to know the performance difference. Thanks if you can help.


----------



## Jflisk

I need some thoughts. I have pump D5/reservoir >240mm rad >CPU>240mm>120MM >2xGPU (using ek bridge and universal blocks with sinks on the vrams and mosfetts)>res/pump.Getting 75C+ under 80C on GPUs under load furmark/combustor. How do I get the GPUs down in temps under load. I read that they should be around 60C max load under water. But not sure if that pertains to mine being 6GB cards and over clocked. GPUs are factory over clocked at 1100 -1500 constant they put out about 400W a piece under full load.Vrms and Mosfetts have air coming across the bottom and the side of case. My CPU FX9590 running at 5.0GHZ (220W) is fine 55C max under load. Thanks


----------



## bond32

From the looks of it with your setup, if you want to run those gpu's in series like that you would need another pump. I would suggest plumbing them in parallel as head loss for anything in parallel = head loss of one gpu. Flow rate right now in your setup is likely low, even with the pump at max. That system really needs a second pump to do what you have there.

Second, if the gpu temps are that much you might need to check the thermal compound. Perhaps it didn't seat correctly, hard to say. Mainly if I were you I would plumb the gpu's into parallel, ditch the small rad, and call it a day.

That 9590 likely puts a huge amount of heat into the loop, would be really high when overclocked. To be honest, if possible you should consider replacing one or both of those 240's with some big boys, either 360 or 480 or even 240 thick rads would be better. Main thing, looks like your problem is flow rate.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Wow jflisk, that's a lot of tubing.
I'm betting that is a parallel block.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Wow jflisk, that's a lot of tubing.
> I'm betting that is a parallel block.


With the outlet at the bottom it looks like series, but I could be wrong. Having the outlet up top makes them in parallel.


----------



## Jflisk

Bond32
The EK bridge allows for Parallel and or series water flow depending upon how I set it up. Right now its set at parallel for the flow threw the GPUs. So suggestion would be Parallel flow for this set up. I have to pull the GPUs this week to get to the usb connector under them and I plan on replacing my fittings. I have EK fittings (these fittings stink) on the Bridge and 2 at upper radiator and I am going to replace with XSPC fittings.Thanks

PC-Illiterate
Trying to keep it all in the case.


----------



## Jflisk

Bond32
Ek bridge top terminated left parallel. EK bridge terminated to right top Series. Thanks


----------



## bond32

I see, interesting. Generally the gpu blocks are the most restrictive in the system. Still stands, I think your issue is flow rate. Honestly I would take out the small radiator, look into possibly think 240's or bigger if possible.


----------



## pc-illiterate

I would clean it up and use less tubing. There's no reason or benefit to run rads between blocks unless it shortens the tubing runs.


----------



## 06TSX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> Vcore voltage


It was at 1.275 when I would manually adjust the multiplier. Now that I set the multiplier into the bios, so that it starts already overclocked, the system set its voltage at 1.325.
For some reason the Asus turbo v would not load my profile I had set for the overclock. So I had to set it every time I started the computer.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *06TSX*
> 
> It was at 1.275 when I would manually adjust the multiplier. Now that I set the multiplier into the bios, so that it starts already overclocked, the system set its voltage at 1.325.
> For some reason the Asus turbo v would not load my profile I had set for the overclock. So I had to set it every time I started the computer.


I always use bios for overclock now, however I might start using a program to find my overclock and then once I find it set it in bios so i dont have to keep rebooting and such when trying to find the right oc.

On another note, I am stuck in the debate whether I should get Mayhems ice pastel fluid or white tubing and distilled water with kill coil again. I cant debate which one I should go with.


----------



## 06TSX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> I always use bios for overclock now, however I might start using a program to find my overclock and then once I find it set it in bios so i dont have to keep rebooting and such when trying to find the right oc.
> 
> On another note, I am stuck in the debate whether I should get Mayhems ice pastel fluid or white tubing and distilled water with kill coil again. I cant debate which one I should go with.


Yea I like asus since they have the software already there for you to use and see everything.
I just stuck with the cheaper route and used distilled with a kill coil.


----------



## spikezone2004

Only thing I worried bout is corrosion. Mayhems has anti corrosion in it. Colored tubing is expensive too compared to clear


----------



## bond32

Most xspc kits come with a silver kill coil. Pick up some biocide if you really want good protection against corrosion and algae.


----------



## spikezone2004

Maybe I will get some biocide and use that with my kill coil and distilled again, I want to get colored tubing but I wont be able to see if I have any air bubbles which is kind of useful. But wont be changing it for a while now, radiator was sold on marketplace that I wanted. Dont want to take it apart until I can add rad and gpu block.


----------



## w4rr3n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> Maybe I will get some biocide and use that with my kill coil and distilled again, I want to get colored tubing but I wont be able to see if I have any air bubbles which is kind of useful. But wont be changing it for a while now, radiator was sold on marketplace that I wanted. Dont want to take it apart until I can add rad and gpu block.


NOOOO! check this thread
http://www.overclock.net/t/1417512/bitspower-fittings-and-water-temp-sensor-corrode-corrosion-after-i-used-a-bit-of-vinegar-for-36hrs-in-the-loop-with-copper-sulphate-and-copper-silver#post_20585398

makes me scared as well


----------



## Jflisk

Okay fixed took the GPU loop apart and tightened the blocks down more.Removed the loop d loop out from GPU's to Rad also. I am now getting 40 to 43c max temps from my GPU's .

I need some thoughts. I have pump D5/reservoir >240mm rad >CPU>240mm>120MM >2xGPU (using ek bridge and universal blocks with sinks on the vrams and mosfetts)>res/pump.Getting 75C+ under 80C on GPUs under load furmark/combustor. How do I get the GPUs down in temps under load. I read that they should be around 60C max load under water. But not sure if that pertains to mine being 6GB cards and over clocked. GPUs are factory over clocked at 1100 -1500 constant they put out about 400W a piece under full load.Vrms and Mosfetts have air coming across the bottom and the side of case. My CPU FX9590 running at 5.0GHZ (220W) is fine 55C max under load. Thanks


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w4rr3n*
> 
> NOOOO! check this thread
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1417512/bitspower-fittings-and-water-temp-sensor-corrode-corrosion-after-i-used-a-bit-of-vinegar-for-36hrs-in-the-loop-with-copper-sulphate-and-copper-silver#post_20585398
> 
> makes me scared as well


That is scary, thats why Id never use vinegar in my loop. Maybe ill get mayhems then which has anti corrosion in it but it has dyes which will stain components. Dont know if just hot water gets that off parts when cleaning


----------



## bond32

The additives have been debated quite a bit. I personally think a few drops of biocide and you're good. I wouldn't use biocide + kill coil. Also I wouldn't use any aluminum components if it can be avoided. Those seem to be the cause of issues when used with other metals.


----------



## Lutfij

No alu in a loop that has copper - better just stay away from any sort of metals apart from brass/copper and nickel in any one loop. You're good with just one kill coil - which apparently ships with the XSPC kit. Some people go with two kill coils in one lop but if you do your digging, you'll see that one kill coil last practically forever unless it was a silver plated tin knock off found a few year s ago.









To understand if and when you have air pockets/bubbles in your loop, you'll figure that out with the pumps pitch/noise and the res. You can look into getting semi-transparent tubing from XSPC or just get yourself a pan and some dye's and dip clear tubing to achieve the color you're looking for. Mind you the dying/dipping process will ruin your kitchen counter tops and one pan so be wary of your mum/wife/sister


----------



## spikezone2004

How come you can;t use biocide and kill coil in loop? I dont believe I have alu in my loop and will ever as far as I know. Fittings I plan on buying will be brass or nickel.

Think ima end up going with clear tubing and either mayhems die or get his ice pastel. Although that has anti corrosion in it I dont know if its biocide will that be bad with my kill coil?


----------



## Lutfij

If you're going with Mayhems range of pastels - you don't need to introduce any form of biocide as the coolant/pastel is insured with an anti corrosive+anti bacterial growth additives. However be forewarned, adding a kill coil/biocide of your won will tamper with the PH of your loop and thus cause discoloration and this also means if you're flushing your rads with vinegar to be very thorough in your process. a small amount of vinegar left over in your loop after flushing can also cause a change in your color. You'll see alot of people seeing their loop turn from red to brown/black because they forgot to flush their rad after using a hotwater/vinegar mix to deal with their rad flux.

FYI - UV is also a form of antibacterial management...so you could look into UV cathode's...?

My 2 cents though


----------



## bittbull187

im going to be using the special edition raystorm for my 4930k build with meyheims white and red aurora wish me luck hehehe ill post pica when shes up and running


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> If you're going with Mayhems range of pastels - you don't need to introduce any form of biocide as the coolant/pastel is insured with an anti corrosive+anti bacterial growth additives. However be forewarned, adding a kill coil/biocide of your won will tamper with the PH of your loop and thus cause discoloration and this also means if you're flushing your rads with vinegar to be very thorough in your process. a small amount of vinegar left over in your loop after flushing can also cause a change in your color. You'll see alot of people seeing their loop turn from red to brown/black because they forgot to flush their rad after using a hotwater/vinegar mix to deal with their rad flux.
> 
> FYI - UV is also a form of antibacterial management...so you could look into UV cathode's...?
> 
> My 2 cents though


I never knew running a kill coil and biocide together was bad thought thats what you were suppose to do. luckily I never put in biocide and just my kill coil. I dont think I am going to use vinegar when I flush mine and just use hot water. I think my ending decision will be price for what coolant I go with, either a bottle of mayhems die or the concentrated bottle of white pastel. If I use his pastel I will make sure to take out my kill coil.


----------



## Lutfij

I use both kill coil and biocide in my loop but the catch here is that all my components in my loop are specifically copper - if you check out my sigged rig, Rig 1 - Lutfi's AMS. I don't use dyes and I've flushed my rad with vinegar and water in 20:80 vinegar:water mixture to flush all the components. I also flushed it all with only distilled after the vinegar flush.

The issue I mentioned is when you'll go for something else in your loop like nickel. They tend to corrode under certain conditions and EK specifically say in their disclaimer that you need to use their coolants and not with a silver kill coil for their nickeled blocks. If it corrodes/chips and adds itself to the loop - literally you void your warranty and they can pin it on you for consumer misconduct. So in the long run going for a copper only loop would help you more than two fold.

Most of the havoc threads you read about chipping/blue-ing of clear fluid/damage to blocks/gunked up channels in blocks are from those that run copper/brass and nickeled parts. You mentioned EK supremacy so I assumed what everyone goes starry eyed about - their nickel blocks. Sorry if I've assumed wrongly.









Consider shipping and you'll figure out if you should go for bottle or concentrate on pastel and the dye is a no brainer actually







If you're going concentrate you'll need to drain all the current liquid in your loop, flush thoroughly and then make a batch of pastel and then fill+prime your loop.


----------



## bond32

Has anyone mounted the raystorm flipped where the inlet and outlet are vertical? Would this help or hurt performance considering the dye of intel cpu's are vertical?


----------



## 06TSX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Has anyone mounted the raystorm flipped where the inlet and outlet are vertical? Would this help or hurt performance considering the dye of intel cpu's are vertical?


I dont think it matters. I run amd tho.


----------



## Jflisk

Amd is flipped as you put it I have no problems with it. As long as you dont flip inlet and outlet .Thanks


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> I use both kill coil and biocide in my loop but the catch here is that all my components in my loop are specifically copper - if you check out my sigged rig, Rig 1 - Lutfi's AMS. I don't use dyes and I've flushed my rad with vinegar and water in 20:80 vinegar:water mixture to flush all the components. I also flushed it all with only distilled after the vinegar flush.
> 
> The issue I mentioned is when you'll go for something else in your loop like nickel. They tend to corrode under certain conditions and EK specifically say in their disclaimer that you need to use their coolants and not with a silver kill coil for their nickeled blocks. If it corrodes/chips and adds itself to the loop - literally you void your warranty and they can pin it on you for consumer misconduct. So in the long run going for a copper only loop would help you more than two fold.
> 
> Most of the havoc threads you read about chipping/blue-ing of clear fluid/damage to blocks/gunked up channels in blocks are from those that run copper/brass and nickeled parts. You mentioned EK supremacy so I assumed what everyone goes starry eyed about - their nickel blocks. Sorry if I've assumed wrongly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Consider shipping and you'll figure out if you should go for bottle or concentrate on pastel and the dye is a no brainer actually
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're going concentrate you'll need to drain all the current liquid in your loop, flush thoroughly and then make a batch of pastel and then fill+prime your loop.


Either way I am going to be flushing my loop, my current tubing on the outside of my case looks extremely off colored now, it isnt clear like it use to be very over white kind of brown and darkish. I will have to see what everything is in my loop to determine everything I might just go with some of his dye though so whenever I flush my loop I dont loose the ice pastel and such.


----------



## Lutfij

Spike - keep us posted on your results.

Bond - It doesn't depend on just the CPU, it also depends upon the bow of your block. Either way you're good mounting it vertical or horizontal.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Has anyone mounted the raystorm flipped where the inlet and outlet are vertical? Would this help or hurt performance considering the dye of intel cpu's are vertical?


As far as I know only Socket 2011 processors can take advantage from the Raystorm mounted @90 degrees (in normal ATX case) because the CPU cores are laid out in a way that favors the block water channels to be lined up vertically. The improvements may be only a couple degrees. Based on the Haswell die shot, I think the best mount is with the channels lined up horizontally (normal mount).


----------



## KnownDragon

I was wondering if there are any raystorm owners with a 3770k overclocked and radiator size and average temps?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KnownDragon*
> 
> I was wondering if there are any raystorm owners with a 3770k overclocked and radiator size and average temps?


I have a raystorm on my 3770k. It's in a full loop with fullcover 7970 block as well. Radiator is a RX360 with 3 medium yate loons in push.

My loop goes Res > Pump > CPU > GPU > Radiator and back to Res.

CPU is at 4.7GHz, GPU is at 1250/1650 for 24/7 clocks. Fully loaded up CPU never clears 85C (stress test scenario). With normal usage, it never clears 73C, whether it be gaming, encoding video, etc.


----------



## KnownDragon

Thank you DaClownie,

I have been wondering about my temps... I am currently reworking my overclock as of the moment. Temps at 4.7 with turbo and speed step off all c states disabled at 1.375 under stress test was reaching 80c - 90c


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KnownDragon*
> 
> Thank you DaClownie,
> 
> I have been wondering about my temps... I am currently reworking my overclock as of the moment. Temps at 4.7 with turbo and speed step off all c states disabled at 1.375 under stress test was reaching 80c - 90c


Mine is 4.7 turbo on, but mine requires less voltage than yours. 1.3v if I remember correctly. If it hits 90c during stress tests, it'll be far lower for normal actual usage.


----------



## djnsmith7

I'm using a Raystorm on a 2500k @ 4.5 in a full loop & haven't seen it exceed 68c yet & that includes using Intel Burn Test. Using a 560mm & 420mm.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djnsmith7*
> 
> I'm using a Raystorm on a 2500k @ 4.5 in a full loop & haven't seen it exceed 68c yet & that includes using Intel Burn Test. Using a 560mm & 420mm.


Ambient ~22C?


----------



## Furlans

Hi alla guys...

I mounted my first custom loop , only CPU ( 4770k ) , two black ice GTS&GTX radiatore 240mm , a x2o 750 v4, and a xspc raystorm... Fans are enermax magma.

This is the rig
http://imageshack.us/scaled/landing/855/wbcc.jpg

I started to OC my CPU, and i saw VERY HIGH TEMPS... @default, cpu hits 70c....
@4,4ghz with 1,2 vcore hits 80c... Idle at 22c....

I replaced the Tim on the cpus.... Nothing changes.
In and out on the cpu block are okay.
There's not air in the loop

I'm so angry, i spent 380€ for a custom loop that performance hotter than a Allinone...

Anyone got any tips?????


----------



## DaClownie

Hits 80C in stress test environment or normal usage? If it's stress test keep it below 90C and it'll run comfortably for normal usage. The problem isn't the loop, the problem is that Ivy Bridge and Haswell use crappy TIM instead of soldering the heatsink on like prior processors. Could always de-lid and replace the TIM if you want some stellar temps.


----------



## Furlans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Hits 80C in stress test environment or normal usage? If it's stress test keep it below 90C and it'll run comfortably for normal usage. The problem isn't the loop, the problem is that Ivy Bridge and Haswell use crappy TIM instead of soldering the heatsink on like prior processors. Could always de-lid and replace the TIM if you want some stellar temps.


Thanks for the reply...hits 80c in Full load... I know that the Tim that Intel sue under the his is Like a *****, bit 80c with a dual 240mm rada loop? Serious?!??!?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furlans*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Hits 80C in stress test environment or normal usage? If it's stress test keep it below 90C and it'll run comfortably for normal usage. The problem isn't the loop, the problem is that Ivy Bridge and Haswell use crappy TIM instead of soldering the heatsink on like prior processors. Could always de-lid and replace the TIM if you want some stellar temps.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply...hits 80c in Full load... I know that the Tim that Intel sue under the his is Like a *****, bit 80c with a dual 240mm rada loop? Serious?!??!?
Click to expand...

Yep, it's not the loops fault. It's poor TIM on the processor. If you added a full cover waterblock cooled GPU to that loop, you'd see REMARKABLE temps on the GPU. It's not the loop or block's fault. My 7970 idles at 30C and never clears 40C. My CPU Idles at 30-40C depending on core, and full load with IBT pushes it to 90 or so celsius.


----------



## djnsmith7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furlans*
> 
> Hi alla guys...
> 
> I mounted my first custom loop , only CPU ( 4770k ) , two black ice GTS&GTX radiatore 240mm , a x2o 750 v4, and a xspc raystorm... Fans are enermax magma.
> 
> This is the rig
> http://imageshack.us/scaled/landing/855/wbcc.jpg
> 
> I started to OC my CPU, and i saw VERY HIGH TEMPS... @default, cpu hits 70c....
> @4,4ghz with 1,2 vcore hits 80c... Idle at 22c....
> 
> I replaced the Tim on the cpus.... Nothing changes.
> In and out on the cpu block are okay.
> There's not air in the loop
> 
> I'm so angry, i spent 380€ for a custom loop that performance hotter than a Allinone...
> 
> Anyone got any tips?????


Being that I'm also new to the WC community, I can only offer .02. If it were me, I would go back & start from square one with the CPU, WB & TIM and do it over. See if that produces better results.

Hopefully the more senior WC folks around here can offer more in-depth suggestions.


----------



## djnsmith7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djnsmith7*
> 
> I'm using a Raystorm on a 2500k @ 4.5 in a full loop & haven't seen it exceed 68c yet & that includes using Intel Burn Test. Using a 560mm & 420mm.
> 
> 
> 
> Ambient ~22C?
Click to expand...

Pretty much. Temps fluctuate, but that's the vicinity.


----------



## Jflisk

Furlans
There is no way you should be at those temps with a XSPC kit. I have a AMD FX9590 220W 5ghx and only see 60C max under any game or utility. Check the pump make sure the dial on the back is set at 5. Make sure all the air is out of the loop. Open the cap on the reservoir and let it run for a few keep an eye on it Should air it out. Check to see if water is flowing while the cap is open. Put the cap back on and tilt case forward and back may be some air in the radiators. make sure heat sink is flat to the CPU. I remember in the instructions Intel cpus need a different spacer on the 4 holders for the heatsink. I am out of ideas after that. Thanks


----------



## Furlans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> cut


Thanks man... I don't understand what may i check behind the pump :|

Thanks for alla the reply... Ah, i add that i am using the integrated GPU


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djnsmith7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djnsmith7*
> 
> I'm using a Raystorm on a 2500k @ 4.5 in a full loop & haven't seen it exceed 68c yet & that includes using Intel Burn Test. Using a 560mm & 420mm.
> 
> 
> 
> Ambient ~22C?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Pretty much. Temps fluctuate, but that's the vicinity.
Click to expand...

That sounds about right. My 3820 @4.5GHz have same delta with your 2500k @4.5GHz. One user claimed his 3820 @4.5GHz max at 55C in 37C ambient. Trying to get further info from him but ....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furlans*
> 
> Hi alla guys...
> 
> I mounted my first custom loop , only CPU ( 4770k ) , two black ice GTS&GTX radiatore 240mm , a x2o 750 v4, and a xspc raystorm... Fans are enermax magma.
> 
> This is the rig
> http://imageshack.us/scaled/landing/855/wbcc.jpg
> 
> I started to OC my CPU, and i saw VERY HIGH TEMPS... @default, cpu hits 70c....
> @4,4ghz with 1,2 vcore hits 80c... Idle at 22c....
> 
> I replaced the Tim on the cpus.... Nothing changes.
> In and out on the cpu block are okay.
> There's not air in the loop
> 
> I'm so angry, i spent 380€ for a custom loop that performance hotter than a Allinone...
> 
> Anyone got any tips?????


What temp you got with all-in-one cooler? What was the all-in-one cooler you use before? 80C with haswell sounds about right when stress tesing. Even with custom water cooling, you will not get any better result without delidding the CPU.


----------



## Furlans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> That sounds about right. My 3820 @4.5GHz have same delta with your 2500k @4.5GHz. One user claimed his 3820 @4.5GHz max at 55C in 37C ambient. Trying to get further info from him but ....
> What temp you got with all-in-one cooler? What was the all-in-one cooler you use before? 80C with haswell sounds about right when stress tesing. Even with custom water cooling, you will not get any better result without delidding the CPU.


I have a friend that got my dame temps with an h110!
Do you think that is safe delidding the CPU with the vice method?


----------



## Recr3ational

Hey guys,
Anyone using the AMD version, does it use the normal AM3 backplate?
My backplate is thereded on one corner.
I have one myself but i completely forgot what was used lol
Thanks!


----------



## KnownDragon

I wouldn't see why it wouldn't. You might have to use a couple of extra washers with the springs tightened down.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furlans*
> 
> I have a friend that got my dame temps with an h110!
> Do you think that is safe delidding the CPU with the vice method?


I see. The culprit most likely the TIM between the die & heatspreader.

I can't comment because I have never done it myself. It look scary but if done right it totally safe. AFAIK the best method than razor. Get yourself some Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra TIM. For the water block, I recommend Shin-Etsu TIM.


----------



## djnsmith7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furlans*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> That sounds about right. My 3820 @4.5GHz have same delta with your 2500k @4.5GHz. One user claimed his 3820 @4.5GHz max at 55C in 37C ambient. Trying to get further info from him but ....
> What temp you got with all-in-one cooler? What was the all-in-one cooler you use before? 80C with haswell sounds about right when stress tesing. Even with custom water cooling, you will not get any better result without delidding the CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a friend that got my dame temps with an h110!
> Do you think that is safe delidding the CPU with the vice method?
Click to expand...

I can't comment on going the delidding route. What I can say is, it may be in your best interest to try a different TIM. I'm seeing great results with the highly recommended MX-4. It's inexpensive & may be worth your while. Not only would you be starting off with a clean slate, you'd also be trying a different product, which may produce different (& hopefully improved) results.

To completely remove existing TIM, clean the slate & prep the slate for the new TIM, I use the Arctic Clean kit & it works wonders.


----------



## Furlans

Thanks for the help








So , clp under the his, and mx4 over? AMD if i don't place the his, and i USS the waterblock on the CPU without the IHS?

How van i cover vrms from clp?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Here's my Raystorm....


----------



## Furlans

Here's mine... Waiting for the gpu... Classy or lightning? Or a 7970 Lightning crossfire?


----------



## MrPhysique

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Here's my Raystorm....


looks really nice, but how easy is it to change TIM if you wanted to without removing the tube running from CPU to the inner barb on the RAD? I was about to do the same exact loop but I'm just wondering what If I want to change TIM later. Would it be easier if I was to connect the tube from CPU to the outer barb on the RAD? in your photo that would be the one connecting RAD to graphics card.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPhysique*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Here's my Raystorm....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks really nice, but how easy is it to change TIM if you wanted to without removing the tube running from CPU to the inner barb on the RAD? I was about to do the same exact loop but I'm just wondering what If I want to change TIM later. Would it be easier if I was to connect the tube from CPU to the outer barb on the RAD? in your photo that would be the one connecting RAD to graphics card.
Click to expand...

How often do you change your TIM? I'm not the norm I suppose... but I've been running my loop for well over a year now, haven't flushed or changed the water, nor have I changed the TIM. All that has been required is using my Datavac to blast the dust out and the temps have stayed the same since install.


----------



## Jflisk

The amd back plain is the original one. Just using the screws and mount from XSPC.


----------



## Jflisk

If you have a D5 pump with your kit there is a 5 position switch on the back of the pump it is for pump speed.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPhysique*
> 
> looks really nice, but how easy is it to change TIM if you wanted to without removing the tube running from CPU to the inner barb on the RAD? I was about to do the same exact loop but I'm just wondering what If I want to change TIM later. Would it be easier if I was to connect the tube from CPU to the outer barb on the RAD? in your photo that would be the one connecting RAD to graphics card.


Thx....Honestly i hope i dnt have to change tim anytime soon,and if for some reason in the future i have to,i guess i would just empty the loop and also do a clean and upgrade of any new parts at the same time....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> How often do you change your TIM? I'm not the norm I suppose... but I've been running my loop for well over a year now, haven't flushed or changed the water, nor have I changed the TIM. All that has been required is using my Datavac to blast the dust out and the temps have stayed the same since install.


The loop is still just about 3 weeks old so i have yet to drain it or change tim,hopefully i wont have to do anything to it for atleast 1/2 a year up to a year like you mentioned,and i do need to invest in a datavac heard good things about them....


----------



## Jflisk

1 gallon air compressor with sealed bearings does not need oil here works wonders. Clears the loop cleans the fans. Think it cost me 75.00 including air chucks.


----------



## Elyminator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thx....Honestly i hope i dnt have to change tim anytime soon,and if for some reason in the future i have to,i guess i would just empty the loop and also do a clean and upgrade of any new parts at the same time....
> The loop is still just about 3 weeks old so i have yet to drain it or change tim,hopefully i wont have to do anything to it for atleast 1/2 a year up to a year like you mentioned,and i do need to invest in a datavac heard good things about them....


Honestly if you wanted/needed to change your TIM without draining the loop it lloks like you would actually have just enough length to do it assuming that angled fitting on top of the pump is a rotary fitting. it would be awakward but you could do it.. though like you mentioned I'm not really sure why you would short of changing cpu's out


----------



## MrPhysique

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> How often do you change your TIM? I'm not the norm I suppose... but I've been running my loop for well over a year now, haven't flushed or changed the water, nor have I changed the TIM. All that has been required is using my Datavac to blast the dust out and the temps have stayed the same since install.


I always plan for a just incase scenario, for example what if I put a little too much or a little too little TIM on the first attempt and I didn't get the best temps?, I'd like to be able to reapply TIM without removing tubes or draining my loop for such a short procedure. I'm also planning on trying two other TIMs before settling on the one that gives me the best temps for my machine.


----------



## KnownDragon

I have been able to remove my Cpu Water block several times just to reseat it or thinking the tim was not applied right. If you have a extra hand it is not hard to do at all. In my case my wife is scared to help. I tend to stress when it comes to this. My loop knock on wood is very efficient. I can lay it over on it's side completely with out any water leaking. So I place a hard back book of the appropriate size behind the back plate (instant second hand). It might take a couple of tries getting the back plate to stay in place. Then I can attach the water block without smearing all the tim all over.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> How often do you change your TIM? I'm not the norm I suppose... but I've been running my loop for well over a year now, haven't flushed or changed the water, nor have I changed the TIM. All that has been required is using my Datavac to blast the dust out and the temps have stayed the same since install.


I guess you really are not the norm, running your loop without cleaning (flushing & changing coolant) for over a year.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPhysique*
> 
> I always plan for a just incase scenario, for example what if I put a little too much or a little too little TIM on the first attempt and I didn't get the best temps?, I'd like to be able to reapply TIM without removing tubes or draining my loop for such a short procedure. I'm also planning on trying two other TIMs before settling on the one that gives me the best temps for my machine.


It's doable but it's going to be difficult. You can use longer tubing but aesthetically it going to look ugly. The best way is by using QDCs. Do you have drain port? You should have one. It make draining your loop much easier.

BTW, what TIMs you're going to test?

To know whether I use enough or too much TIM, I will apply TIM on IHS, firmly pressed the block to IHS & then removed the block. This way I'll know whether it's too much or enough. Next step is re-apply TIM & adjust the amount or application method if need to. This way I don't have to drain the loop just to re-apply TIM.


----------



## MrPhysique

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> It's doable but it's going to be difficult. You can use longer tubing but aesthetically it going to look ugly. The best way is by using QDCs. Do you have drain port? You should have one. It make draining your loop much easier.
> 
> BTW, what TIMs you're going to test?
> 
> To know whether I use enough or too much TIM, I will apply TIM on IHS, firmly pressed the block to IHS & then removed the block. This way I'll know whether it's too much or enough. Next step is re-apply TIM & adjust the amount or application method if need to. This way I don't have to drain the loop just to re-apply TIM.


Yes I do have a drain port, QDC's are too bulky, I know they are very helpful but they are just too bulky.
I started with MX-4, I am going to run it for a while then try PK-1 and finally Indigo extreme, then I will stick with the best performer for my machine.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> The amd back plain is the original one. Just using the screws and mount from XSPC.


Yeah I was hoping someone said that. I bought a replacement one.


----------



## mcinjere

maybe somebody can help me out. I am new to water cooling. just bought an XSPC Raystorm 750 EX240. iust wondering if the 750 pump is powerful enough to push through 2 radiators. i only have the cpu in the look now, but would like to add a plate for my gtx 680 and another 120 rad, or maybe another 240 rad. any info would be great thanks


----------



## 06TSX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcinjere*
> 
> maybe somebody can help me out. I am new to water cooling. just bought an XSPC Raystorm 750 EX240. iust wondering if the 750 pump is powerful enough to push through 2 radiators. i only have the cpu in the look now, but would like to add a plate for my gtx 680 and another 120 rad, or maybe another 240 rad. any info would be great thanks


From my experience it is enough. I had my cpu, gpu, and 2 240mm rads in there with good temps. But to be honest, it would be easier and more beneficial to buy the d5 vario pump if you going to be adding more components.
That's what I upgraded too and don't regret it.


----------



## mcinjere

did you notice any difference in temps switching pumps or are the stronger pumps
basically more power for a more advanced setup with lots of components?

i don't think i will add more than the cpu and gpu until a few years later when i do a completely new build.

i have a 2600k 4.2ghz
xspc raystorm 750 ex240
ambient room temp 22-24c
idle avg tem[s are 33 36 28 36
load temp intel burn test 52 56 51 55


----------



## 06TSX

I noticed no temperature difference and the bigger pumps would be more ideal for more components. I only added the D5 since I was going crossfire as i was worried there would be not enough pressure and flow with the X20 750. Those are about my exact temps as well with my fx8150 at 4.6. My xfire 7970's sit at 44 comfortably at load.


----------



## Recr3ational

Hey again.
Was wondering if my XSPC 750 pump can handle 2 x 7970 blocks, 1 x 240 rad, 1x 200mm rad and raystorm CPU block?


----------



## Jflisk

I think your going to need to invest in a D5 pump to handle all that. Thanks


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Hey again.
> Was wondering if my XSPC 750 pump can handle 2 x 7970 blocks, 1 x 240 rad, 1x 200mm rad and raystorm CPU block?


Hit up the water cooling club,those guys are good when it comes to best pump for a loop....Jflisk is right a D5 would be the best option,but i have never used a 750 pump so its hard to tell what the performance with it would be like....


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hit up the water cooling club,those guys are good when it comes to best pump for a loop....


Oh hello!
I see you eveywhere!
I might have to do that thanks.


----------



## DaveLT

Didn't see that this club existed ...


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Oh hello!
> I see you eveywhere!
> I might have to do that thanks.


omnipresent


----------



## 371372

Hey guys, I'm planning to purchase a 750 EX240 kit but I'm having trouble figuring out how to fit the X20 pumpservoir (pump/reservoir combo?) in a Bitfenix prodigy. It requires 2 5.25 inch drive bays, but I've seen plenty of people removing the 2 hard drive cages from the prodigy and they are able to fit a reservoir and pump, albeit as separate components. So the question is, will the x20 pumpservoir fit as well ?

Originally I was planning on getting the Arc Mini R2 (still unavailable in my country) but the orange Prodigy is just... too... tempting...


----------



## djnsmith7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcinjere*
> 
> maybe somebody can help me out. I am new to water cooling. just bought an XSPC Raystorm 750 EX240. iust wondering if the 750 pump is powerful enough to push through 2 radiators. i only have the cpu in the look now, but would like to add a plate for my gtx 680 and another 120 rad, or maybe another 240 rad. any info would be great thanks


Here's my opinion...I have a D5 (1st WC project) & it's outstanding. I mean, I have a sizable loop & it pushes water like nobody's business. If you go with a 750, it may do the trick for a smaller sized loop that only has a few components (ex: 1 CPU WB, 1 GPU WB, 1 360 Rad & 1 Res.). You may or may not be satisfied with the temps. For conversation, let's say you are. But what about when you want to expand? Let's say you add a 2nd GPU WB, a 2nd or 3rd rad. Let's say you decide you want to slowly work your way up to extreme water cooling.

There's no way the 750 will hold up with the larger size loop (assuming you're after extreme temps). So, you would have to sell the 750 & buy the D5. You'd be lucky to get half of what a new 750 sells for.

For me, it was a no-brainer. Way too much time & hassle to do all that stuff when I could just start out with a D5 & know that I wouldn't have to worry about power / pressure no matter what I add to my loop. I did a lot of research before I purchased my parts & I have yet to see anyone say that a D5 doesn't have enough power.


----------



## Recr3ational

I've seen a guy on here push his 750 with 3 x 470 blocks, 2 x 480 rad and CPU. Here's the link

http://www.overclock.net/t/869446/corsair-800d-water-build-modded-for-two-480mm-radiators-final-incarnation/130


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> I've seen a guy on here push his 750 with 3 x 470 blocks, 2 x 480 rad and CPU. Here's the link
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/869446/corsair-800d-water-build-modded-for-two-480mm-radiators-final-incarnation/130


Recr3ational get a D5....







and while you're at it get a 750D....


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Recr3ational get a D5....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and while you're at it get a 750D....


NEVER! Remember we took an oath.
Once a 600T. Always a 600T. You broke that oath









I'm gonna test out my pump if it isn't good enough I'll get D5. I'm pretty confident though.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> NEVER! Remember we took an oath.
> Once a 600T. Always a 600T. You broke that oath
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm gonna test out my pump if it isn't good enough I'll get D5. I'm pretty confident though.


I hope it works also....Looking forward to seeing your loop up and running....


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I hope it works also....Looking forward to seeing your loop up and running....


Thanks brother


----------



## mcinjere

smart guy here. 600t all the way baby


----------



## Jflisk

Give this a try for pump questions.Its a comprehensive list of pumps and component blockages.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/pump-planning-guide/


----------



## KnownDragon

I need a larger case but my wife is going to trade cases with me. Nothing fancy and not larger just better placed offset fan placement. I will be using the 430 black elite cooler master while she takes my Nzxt Guardian 921 rb. I was told you will not cut that case at least not right now.


----------



## jeffblute

So after a around a year of having the Raystorm D5 pump/res combo the top of the bay is starting to separate








(not the acrylic Rez but the black res)

So after changing out cases and looking to save some money I am thinking of picking up one of these.


Anyone have any experience with these?

Thanks,
Jeff E.


----------



## bond32

I bought one of those, works just fine. For my new case (Phanteks enthoo) I am going back to the bay results but the tank works well.


----------



## sWaY20

Ok so I've been thinking about getting this kit here... http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16071/ex-wat-211/XSPC_Raystorm_EX360_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Included_and_Free_Dead-Water_.html?tl=g30c321s1310

I've heard the bay pump/res isn't reliable though. This will be my first custom loop and I wanna make sure it's easy so I can learn. Is this a really good start, and is this kit reliable? I'll eventually add my 780 in the loop, so I'll need another rad, but I wanna make sure this is a good start.

tappin from the Nexus 4


----------



## DaveLT

the D5 is definitely reliable. others will chime in about the res though


----------



## Jflisk

Theres a older res and a newer res as long as you get the newer res you should be okay. The newer res has a extra screw in it.
Heres the article showing the newer design

http://www.overclock.net/t/1347670/xspc-5-25-dual-bay-reservoir-leaking-at-pump-w-pics/130


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Theres a older res and a newer res as long as you get the newer res you should be okay. The newer res has a extra screw in it.
> Heres the article showing the newer design
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1347670/xspc-5-25-dual-bay-reservoir-leaking-at-pump-w-pics/130


Thats exactly what i was worried about, and the info i needed. It was either this or the EK kit and i wanted to lean more toward this kit and i think ill go with this one now.


----------



## Panther Al

My Search foo is somewhat lacking of late, since I can't seem to find an answer. But, from what I have seen, I don't know of a way where you can go tri-sli in parallel with the bridge blocks that XSPC makes to fit between the GPU cards. Am I seeing this right or am I missing something?


----------



## Jflisk

Ek makes the water blocks for Tri SLI and or Crossfire -Qaud fire/Sli Quad The question above was about a starter kit. XSPC Starter kits come with the basics for the CPU. After that you add your own blocks there after.I started with the XSPC kit then added more rads and EK GPU cooling.


----------



## CasperGS

So ive had my 240 setup for about 2 to 3 months now and when I first fired it up it held 10c idle, now it sits at 26c idle and I just cleaned it out. Rez is still full, no kinks and all fans set to 100%.

Any thoughts??


----------



## djnsmith7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Ok so I've been thinking about getting this kit here... http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16071/ex-wat-211/XSPC_Raystorm_EX360_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Included_and_Free_Dead-Water_.html?tl=g30c321s1310
> 
> I've heard the bay pump/res isn't reliable though. This will be my first custom loop and I wanna make sure it's easy so I can learn. Is this a really good start, and is this kit reliable? I'll eventually add my 780 in the loop, so I'll need another rad, but I wanna make sure this is a good start.
> 
> tappin from the Nexus 4


I bought the EX420 version of this same kit & so far, it's working fine. I also read the complaints & issues about the res. & had the same concerns you do (& they're valid concerns). Only thing I can really say about it is, so far, so good. I really like the kit & I'm satisfied with the temps & overall quality of each product. As of today, I can say that I would recommend an EX kit.


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djnsmith7*
> 
> [quote name="sWaY20" url="/t/1132180/official-xspc-raystorm-club/1020_30#post_21045344"]Ok so I've been thinking about getting this kit here... http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16071/ex-wat-211/XSPC_Raystorm_EX360_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Included_and_Free_Dead-Water_.html?tl=g30c321s1310I've heard the bay pump/res isn't reliable though. This will be my first custom loop and I wanna make sure it's easy so I can learn. Is this a really good start, and is this kit reliable? I'll eventually add my 780 in the loop, so I'll need another rad, but I wanna make sure this is a good start.tappin from the Nexus 4


I bought the EX420 version of this same kit & so far, it's working fine. I also read the complaints & issues about the res. & had the same concerns you do (& they're valid concerns). Only thing I can really say about it is, so far, so good. I really like the kit & I'm satisfied with the temps & overall quality of each product. As of today, I can say that I would recommend an EX kit.[/QUOTE]

Awesome thanks!!! Since I have the 540 air, the bay will be sideways, will that be a problem for anything? Other than making fill ups more difficult.

tappin from the Nexus 4


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Awesome thanks!!! Since I have the 540 air, the bay will be sideways, will that be a problem for anything? Other than making fill ups more difficult.
> 
> tappin from the Nexus 4


It is slightly harder to fill and bleed, but possible. I had the 540 too. Be careful, I would put a towel on the front after it's all connected so the xspc bay doesn't scuff the front of the 540.


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> [quote name="sWaY20" url="/t/1132180/official-xspc-raystorm-club/1030#post_21065421"]Awesome thanks!!! Since I have the 540 air, the bay will be sideways, will that be a problem for anything? Other than making fill ups more difficult.tappin from the Nexus 4


It is slightly harder to fill and bleed, but possible. I had the 540 too. Be careful, I would put a towel on the front after it's all connected so the xspc bay doesn't scuff the front of the 540.[/QUOTE]

Sweet, rep coming your way!!!

tappin from the Nexus 4


----------



## Sprkd1

What's the difference between the AX240 and the EX240?

Secondly, what do you have to do for maintenance on these kits?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sprkd1*
> 
> What's the difference between the AX240 and the EX240?
> 
> Secondly, what do you have to do for maintenance on these kits?


The only difference i have seen with the AX vs EX is that the AX version comes with a housing that makes it look better as for a kit setup never used one so i will let someone else answer that....


----------



## Alex132

I thought AX / EX difference was like the RS / RX?

But RX > EX because of the denser nature of EX fins, so RX is better for low-speed/low-noise?

idk something like that


----------



## CasperGS

So ive had my 240 setup for about 2 to 3 months now and when I first fired it up it held 10c idle, now it sits at 26c idle and I just cleaned it out. Rez is still full, no kinks and all fans set to 100%.

Any thoughts??


----------



## Sprkd1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasperGS*
> 
> So ive had my 240 setup for about 2 to 3 months now and when I first fired it up it held 10c idle, now it sits at 26c idle and I just cleaned it out. Rez is still full, no kinks and all fans set to 100%.
> 
> Any thoughts??


Are your load temps the same as before?


----------



## CasperGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sprkd1*
> 
> Are your load temps the same as before?


no, everythings is higher (as far as socket and core), I thought it was cause I waited so long to clean the dust from the rad but temps remain the same, I even reseated the block with fresh paste. was curious if its the pump?? but dont know how to test it other then purchasing more coolant and drain/refill.


----------



## Sprkd1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasperGS*
> 
> no, everythings is higher (as far as socket and core), I thought it was cause I waited so long to clean the dust from the rad but temps remain the same, I even reseated the block with fresh paste. was curious if its the pump?? but dont know how to test it other then purchasing more coolant and drain/refill.


Something similar happened to my H100. Temps rose way too high and I thought it was because I had to clean/dust it. Once I cleaned it, temps were still too high compared to when it was new. Right now, my load temps are at least 10 C higher than when it was new. This is once reason why I am looking for a new water cooling kit.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sprkd1*
> 
> What's the difference between the AX240 and the EX240?
> 
> Secondly, what do you have to do for maintenance on these kits?


Read on the XSPC site. You can take the AX apart and paint just the shell. Thicker core and 1 extra tube. (these increases surface area)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I thought AX / EX difference was like the RS / RX?
> 
> But RX > EX because of the denser nature of EX fins, so RX is better for low-speed/low-noise?
> 
> idk something like that


Slightly. Converted into single row FPI EX is about 10FPI but with RX performance @ 1000rpm compared to RX @ 800rpm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sprkd1*
> 
> Something similar happened to my H100. Temps rose way too high and I thought it was because I had to clean/dust it. Once I cleaned it, temps were still too high compared to when it was new. Right now, my load temps are at least 10 C higher than when it was new. This is once reason why I am looking for a new water cooling kit.


The electromigration of aluminium must have begun ...


----------



## mcinjere

you must have a really cold room bro. to get 10c idle temps your room is sitting at 45ish degress farenheit.

my guess it was a glitch to be at 10c. and 26c sound a lot more reasonable because thats 78f in a room thats probably around 70-75 degrees.


----------



## mcinjere

you must have a really cold room bro. to get 10c idle temps your room is sitting at 45ish degress farenheit.

my guess it was a glitch to be at 10c. and 26c sound a lot more reasonable because thats 78f in a room thats probably around 70-75 degrees.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcinjere*
> 
> you must have a really cold room bro. to get 10c idle temps your room is sitting at 45ish degress farenheit.
> 
> my guess it was a glitch to be at 10c. and 26c sound a lot more reasonable because thats 78f in a room thats probably around 70-75 degrees.


maybe he lives in an igloo on Devon Island?


----------



## CasperGS

Nah...its true, just to prove it I kicked down my clock from 4.6 to 1.4 and my temps drop to 11c idle. Just dont know why it was so great at 4.6 when I first put it together and now its not.


----------



## mcinjere

what is the ambient temperature in your room. what is the thermostat set to.


----------



## CasperGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcinjere*
> 
> what is the ambient temperature in your room. what is the thermostat set to.


75f


----------



## muels7

Just a quick question. Would the 750 AX360 kit be able to support the addition of a 1 possibly 2 GPU blocks in the future? Or is the Rad/pump not large enough?

Thanks


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muels7*
> 
> Just a quick question. Would the 750 AX360 kit be able to support the addition of a 1 possibly 2 GPU blocks in the future? Or is the Rad/pump not large enough?
> 
> Thanks


Yep, It should. That's a great kit imo...


----------



## mcinjere

right so like i was saying. if your room is 75f there is no way your temps can be lower than the temperature in the room. 75f is 23.8c.

the coolest your water can get is the same temperature as your radiator, which will be the same temperature as your room. so the lowest temperature you could achieve in that room is 23.8c on your cpu.

so 26c is about 2.2c above ambient temps in your room which is actually pretty good from everything i have read.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcinjere*
> 
> right so like i was saying. if your room is 75f there is no way your temps can be lower than the temperature in the room. 75f is 23.8c.
> 
> the coolest your water can get is the same temperature as your radiator, which will be the same temperature as your room. so the lowest temperature you could achieve in that room is 23.8c on your cpu.
> 
> so 26c is about 2.2c above ambient temps in your room which is actually pretty good from everything i have read.


Idle temp on AMD CPUs are not accurate. The core temp on AMD CPU is not physical CPU temp. So, idle temp can be lower than ambient. The point is that, you can't take into account the ambient temp when reading core temp on AMD CPUs. The core temp is designed & calibrated for making sure the AMD CPUs are working within specification (temp limit). For example, CPU will trigger thermal throttling when core temp reaches temp limit.


----------



## CasperGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Idle temp on AMD CPUs are not accurate. The core temp on AMD CPU is not physical CPU temp. So, idle temp can be lower than ambient. The point is that, you can't account ambient temp when reading core temp on AMD CPUs. The core temp is designed & calibrated for making sure the AMD CPUs are working within specification (temp limit). For example, CPU will trigger thermal throttling when core temp reaches temp limit.


Like I said b4, When I set this up and overclocked to 4.6ghz idle temp using Aida64 was 10c and remained that way for awhile, I got lazy and let the radiator get too dusty and cleaned it out last weekend and temps didnt drop, I then downclocked to 1.4ghz to prove temps and it idles at 10 to 12c. And was looking for an explaination of it. I thought it could be since I ran AC in house over summer and now the heat is on but why would I hit 10c idle at 1.4ghz and not 4.6?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasperGS*
> 
> Like I said b4, When I set this up and overclocked to 4.6ghz idle temp using Aida64 was 10c and remained that way for awhile, I got lazy and let the radiator get too dusty and cleaned it out last weekend and temps didnt drop, I then downclocked to 1.4ghz to prove temps and it idles at 10 to 12c. And was looking for an explaination of it. I thought it could be since I ran AC in house over summer and now the heat is on but why would I hit 10c idle at 1.4ghz and not 4.6?


My reply is to explain to him that don't worry about the idle temp on AMD CPUs lower than ambient temp.

Regarding your question, sorry I don't know. One thing for sure is that idle temp @4.6 will be higher than @1.4GHz. I don't know why you can get lower idle temp @4.6 before though. Possible explanation is gunk build-up in CPU block causing it to running slightly warmer. Erroneous reading by monitoring software could also explains the issue. Not first time I encountered such issue. I googled & found other 8350 also idle at 20s Celsius.


----------



## maza90210

Did you say nothing special! that's an amazing rig @deeks
What case is it? I'm guessing obsidian 800d/900d?


----------



## mcinjere

i didn't think about that. never had an amd cpu.

1.6ghz needs less power to operate. 4.6 needs more power. more watts means more heat.


----------



## CasperGS

How often do pumps go out?


----------



## d1nky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasperGS*
> 
> How often do pumps go out?


mine goes out every weekend, she's a whore!


----------



## kizwan

LMAO


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1nky*
> 
> mine goes out every weekend, she's a whore!


AWE naw hahahah


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasperGS*
> 
> How often do pumps go out?


Technically for the D5 and It would help if you specified a pump. It also the luck of the draw it could be anywhere from 1 to 50,000

50,000 hours MTBF (Mean Time Between Failure) equivalent to 5 years lifetime

I have a flow meter on mine connected to a fan controller that shuts the computer off if the flow becomes low.the flow on a D5 is supposed to be 1200 liters an hour mine goes below 500 liters the machine shuts off.


----------



## CasperGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Technically for the D5 and It would help if you specified a pump. It also the luck of the draw it could be anywhere from 1 to 50,000
> 
> 50,000 hours MTBF (Mean Time Between Failure) equivalent to 5 years lifetime
> 
> I have a flow meter on mine connected to a fan controller that shuts the computer off if the flow becomes low.the flow on a D5 is supposed to be 1200 liters an hour mine goes below 500 liters the machine shuts off.


XSPC Raystorm 750 RS240 Extreme Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit (New Rev. 4 Pump Included) I can not hold stable temps anymore and I reseated my block and flushed system last night- didnt help. Like the idea of a flow meter: any suggestions for one?


----------



## Jflisk

You can check the Koolance site or Performance pc/Frozen Cpu also sells the Koolance products.

Koolance display for flow meter
http://koolance.com/dcb-fm01-flow-meter-adapter-with-display

Koolance Flow meter
http://koolance.com/ins-fm18-coolant-flow-meter-stainless-steel

Full blown controller. If you have the funds
http://koolance.com/tms-205-software-thermal-interface-controller

Thats weird cant just find the pump anywhere for your set up . Do you see any kind of flow in your RES.


----------



## CasperGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> You can check the Koolance site or Performance pc/Frozen Cpu also sells the Koolance products.
> 
> Koolance display for flow meter
> http://koolance.com/dcb-fm01-flow-meter-adapter-with-display
> 
> Koolance Flow meter
> http://koolance.com/ins-fm18-coolant-flow-meter-stainless-steel
> 
> Full blown controller. If you have the funds
> http://koolance.com/tms-205-software-thermal-interface-controller
> 
> Thats weird cant just find the pump anywhere for your set up . Do you see any kind of flow in your RES.


Yea I flushed it last night and while filling res I could see flow, once full I can not.


----------



## Lourad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasperGS*
> 
> Yea I flushed it last night and while filling res I could see flow, once full I can not.


I am no expert but, when the res is full you shouldn't see flow. I don't see the coolant moving in mine but, if you run OCCT or any other stress software and your temps are good then you have flow.


----------



## CasperGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lourad*
> 
> I am no expert but, when the res is full you shouldn't see flow. I don't see the coolant moving in mine but, if you run OCCT or any other stress software and your temps are good then you have flow.


I dont see flow when its full, and I dont hold temp when load is 100% - I reach thermal limits.


----------



## Lourad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasperGS*
> 
> I dont see flow when its full, and I dont hold temp when load is 100% - I reach thermal limits.


Are you running a stress test with a overclocked cpu, if so try going to stock to ensure the volts are not your heat problem.
I think at stock would be the best way to test your temps.


----------



## CasperGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lourad*
> 
> Are you running a stress test with a overclocked cpu, if so try going to stock to ensure the volts are not your heat problem.
> I think at stock would be the best way to test your temps.


Yea, but that eliminates why we purchase watercooling products.


----------



## Lourad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasperGS*
> 
> Yea, but that eliminates why we purchase watercooling products.


I suggested to go to stock to test your temps so that you know you have flow, my thinking was to eliminate the overclock as a possible heat issue. after the test and you know you have flow, then overclock away!


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasperGS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lourad*
> 
> Are you running a stress test with a overclocked cpu, if so try going to stock to ensure the volts are not your heat problem.
> I think at stock would be the best way to test your temps.
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, but that eliminates why we purchase watercooling products.
Click to expand...

When diagnosing a problem bring everything back to factory condition and test. If things are not working properly or failing at factor condition, then you got a big issue on your hands. If it works, you can start reinstating modifications (overclocks, etc.) until you find the culprit. Standard practice of loss elimination and diagnosing a problem my friend


----------



## MrPhysique

Guys I need your help on this one. Just finished building my loop on a Rampage 4 Extreme with a 3970x which includes 2 690gtx in SLI. I'm using the XSPC Raystorm Extreme Kit which comes with a 360 Rad, I also added an additional 240 Rad to the loop, this is a single loop by the way with the dual D5 Pump/Res Combo, the PSU is an AX1200. Now here is my problem: Before I installed the Water cooling, my overclock of 4.5 was working fine using H100 cooler. After I installed the Raystorm loop, I haven't touched the bios, windows 7 ultimate 64bit hangs at boot up and when I restart I get an overclock fail message. I managed to get in to safe mode, and the temps on my CPU are better than before but I'm not sure if 38 Idle is satisfactory for my type of processor, I also don't think that would be a reason for an overclock fail. Any Ideas?


----------



## Jflisk

Mr Physique - 38C is probably ambient temperature in your house or room.Loop will never drop below ambient. Did you happen to attach something to your motherboard header for the fan. Most motherboards dont see a fan they dont start.My D5 has a fan header on it.Yours being a Asus you should be able to disable the fan for the cpu detection. Thanks


----------



## skitz9417

hi guys im just wondering is the XSPC X2O 750 Dual Bay Reservoir and Pump V4
anygood and is it nosiy


----------



## MrPhysique

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Mr Physique - 38C is probably ambient temperature in your house or room.Loop will never drop below ambient. Did you happen to attach something to your motherboard header for the fan. Most motherboards dont see a fan they dont start.My D5 has a fan header on it.Yours being a Asus you should be able to disable the fan for the cpu detection. Thanks


My room Temperature is at 20C and the case temperature is 26.5C. The D5 headers are attached to the motherboard and I can see the D5 RPM in the bios, are you suggesting that I disconnect them? Is that why the PC hangs at boot with a failed overclock?


----------



## Jflisk

MrPhysique-Just making sure something is connected to the fan headers. Also do they have the speed adjustments on the back of the D5 and what are they set at.One other thing I didnt think about what power supply do you have might have been enough for the overclock on air but once you add fans and pumps it could take you over.Thanks


----------



## mcinjere

Good thinking about the PSU. Posts like this make me love OCN


----------



## MrPhysique

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> MrPhysique-Just making sure something is connected to the fan headers. Also do they have the speed adjustments on the back of the D5 and what are they set at.One other thing I didnt think about what power supply do you have might have been enough for the overclock on air but once you add fans and pumps it could take you over.Thanks


Yes I did take in to account the addition of hardware such as the pumps, but the AX1200 with 1200 watts is more than enough for what I have installed. The pump speed is set at 3 for both pumps, The famous overclock failed message comes up even at default bios settings. I loosened the mounting pressure on the CPU thinking that there might be too much pressure but that wasn't it. Could switching video cards do that? I don't really know if they got switched but that's the last thing I can think of, I will try removing the video software in safe mode and hope that's the reason the pc locks up.


----------



## mcinjere

you could always clear your cmos and have the great joy of oc'ing all over again.


----------



## MrPhysique

Solved finally, the problem was the video cards I think I may have switched them when I was working on them and since they were already setup in SLI on windows it must have gotten mixed up. As soon as I uninstalled the software everything was back to normal. I'm still getting 42C Idle and 70C Load on IBT with a [email protected] however, I've heard people doing much better on temps with the same processor.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPhysique*
> 
> I'm still getting 42C Idle and 70C Load on IBT with a [email protected] however, I've heard people doing much better on temps with the same processor.


most probably trapped air. make sure the loop is completely bled.


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Hello all!

Here is my AMD 8350 Raystorm. Glad to join the club with my first water cooling venture.








(wish I would've found this sooner)

Still working on the case some. I hope by winter (if it even can be called that here in south FL ) I can really put it to work with some nasty overclocks and benchmarking.










Those are red led's and UV red tubing but it glows orange under the cold cathode UV's


----------



## d1nky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> Hello all!
> 
> Here is my AMD 8350 Raystorm. Glad to join the club with my first water cooling venture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (wish I would've found this sooner)
> 
> Still working on the case some. I hope by winter (if it even can be called that here in south FL ) I can really put it to work with some nasty overclocks and benchmarking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those are red led's and UV red tubing but it glows orange under the cold cathode UV's


you've got the block plate too tight and its bending!

looks good tho, itll get addictive soon enough ha!

when youre giving it some uberclocks and benches, heres something to join in with

http://hwbot.org/hardware/processors#key=fx_8350


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Indeed you are correct.









I have just undid the thumb portion but am afraid that it is now perma bent.

Oh well. well see what happens now. Noob error.


----------



## d1nky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> Indeed you are correct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have just undid the thumb portion but am afraid that it is now perma bent.
> 
> Oh well. well see what happens now. Noob error.


could always turn it around and bend it straight lol, mine bent a lil at first so I put it under something heavy and flat and went easy on the screws. looking at it now, its still bent. nothing major!

ive also lapped my 8350 and block, gained about 5-7*c

I got a 360/240 rad just on the cpu. was aiming to do something similar to your build but give up and want a pot and testbench lol

what cards are they?!

I cant wait to see what nasty clocks you can get on it! mine so far is almost 5.7ghz on water


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1nky*
> 
> what cards are they?!
> 
> I cant wait to see what nasty clocks you can get on it! mine so far is almost 5.7ghz on water


They are EVGA GTX 670 FTW's running them at 1350mhz core and 1800mhz memory

I'm currently running my 8350 at 5050mhz. @ 1.49v 63c max core temp during prime. My room temp is 78f









Today was a cool 85f here in South Fl. My friend has a portable a/c unit I may borrow to do some benching. I hope by late December to late January I can really try for some stuff. May even get push pull setup for the rads.

I don't think I can hit what those guys are doing on hwbot that is some serious stuff.


----------



## maza90210

Hey guys, not sure if I'm in the right place. Couldn't find an XSPC razer club, so I thought I should post here.
As you all probably know, the r9 290x and r9 290 cooler is... awful
I plan on watercooling the r9 290 (which I plan on buying), and I'm just wondering is the r9 290x xspc waterblock compatible with the r9 290 (non x), I know that the EK waterblocks are comaptible. But I really prefer XSPC, I hear too much stuff about the EK blocks.


----------



## bond32

I don't see an R9 290x block from XSPC yet...

Personally I was planning on the Koolance block.


----------



## pc-illiterate

there is nothing wrong with EK blocks since they got the nickle plating sorted. besides that, the AC blocks look sweet.
http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/51700#post_21077648


----------



## maza90210

There are XSPC blocks available in Overclockers UK, I don't think it's made yet. Anyway, I also prefer xspc because of the LED, and the block 1-look good and 2-perform well.


----------



## bond32

Anyone have a solution to decouple the bay res/pump? I thought about shoving foam between the mounts and case. Right now even on low setting the d5 pump is the loudest thing in my pc.


----------



## WuLF

I'm super new to custom watercooling.. But I am thinking about doing it as I want to get a 290 and either watercool it or go with an Accelero Xtreme III..

I've always thought of custom watercooling as daunting, but it doesn't seem to be that difficult.

Quick question though: If I purchase something like this: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21236/ex-wat-271/XSPC_Raystorm_750_EX360_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_New_Rev_4_Pump_Included_w_Free_Dead-Water.html?tl=g30c321s1310

Will I need to purchase another radiator if I want to expand to cooling the GPU as well as the CPU? As I am trying to keep the cost of this down.. I may end up just going with the Arctic VGA cooler instead if this becomes too expensive.


----------



## bond32

You would be ok I think with that EX360 for a CPU and GPU loop. If others want to chime in feel free, but I think that would be fine. Keep in mind once you start with this stuff, it will lead to more and more. I initially purchased an H220 to keep costs down, now I have a full custom loop with 960mm of rad space.

My newest cooling radiator is the EX480. I have been really impressed with it's build quality and performance so far, especially considering its price.


----------



## WuLF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> You would be ok I think with that EX360 for a CPU and GPU loop. If others want to chime in feel free, but I think that would be fine. Keep in mind once you start with this stuff, it will lead to more and more. I initially purchased an H220 to keep costs down, now I have a full custom loop with 960mm of rad space.
> 
> My newest cooling radiator is the EX480. I have been really impressed with it's build quality and performance so far, especially considering its price.


Thanks for the quick reply man! Appreciate it. I think the HAF 932 maxes out the top at 3 120's.. so 360 would be the limit for my existing case I believe. I could always add a Rad in the front in the future.. For now though, trying to keep costs down.. gotta pay rent! lol. I know, as with all most hobbies, it'll lead to more and more! lol


----------



## WuLF

Edit: Good to know that it will probably be fine without adding anything to the loop for now.


----------



## pc-illiterate

i wouldnt rely on a 360 to keep both an oc 2600k and an r9 290 cool. from what ive read, they run pretty hot.
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/radeon_r9_290_review_benchmarks,11.html
im also hoping they got the 750 pump straightened out. reliability was hit and miss with them before.


----------



## bond32

Actually he is right, it's just something to consider. The 360 will be able to keep it cool, but under heavy load you may see temps get slightly high. I just got my 290x today, it runs very hot.


----------



## WuLF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i wouldnt rely on a 360 to keep both an oc 2600k and an r9 290 cool. from what ive read, they run pretty hot.
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/radeon_r9_290_review_benchmarks,11.html
> im also hoping they got the 750 pump straightened out. reliability was hit and miss with them before.


Thanks for that man. I don't mind it if it runs at ~80C at load.. just don't want it to run at 90+!!! And don't want the noise on the stock cooler either.. so it's either Watercooling or the Arctic Accelero or the Gelid Rev. 2 ICY Vision.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i wouldnt rely on a 360 to keep both an oc 2600k and an r9 290 cool. from what ive read, they run pretty hot.
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/radeon_r9_290_review_benchmarks,11.html
> im also hoping they got the 750 pump straightened out. reliability was hit and miss with them before.


I have a 2700K and 290X in a loop with a 360 and 240. They still run pretty warm, so more than just a 360 would be advisable.


----------



## WuLF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> I have a 2700K and 290X in a loop with a 360 and 240. They still run pretty warm, so more than just a 360 would be advisable.


Your CPU is running a pretty high clock though.. 4.8GHz. with higher Voltage.. Which is awesome! But that's pretty frickin' extreme!

Looks like I will have to build in parts I suppose. I still really like the XSPC pump/res combo and it's affordability.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> I have a 2700K and 290X in a loop with a 360 and 240. They still run pretty warm, so more than just a 360 would be advisable.


You're pulling 300W off the 2700k though








What speed did you set on the D5? Also what are your fan speeds?







Besides that also i would like to know your rad positioning, A single 290x with a high OC 2700k running pretty warm doesn't sound very good

Temps for GPU/CPU?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Anyone have a solution to decouple the bay res/pump? I thought about shoving foam between the mounts and case. Right now even on low setting the d5 pump is the loudest thing in my pc.


Seriously? My D5 pump (bay/res) at 5 running silently. The only thing I hear from my pc is my fans. Vibration? Mine pretty tight fit. Even without the screws, it won't vibrate.

IMO, 480mm rad is minimum for OC'ed CPU & single high-end GPU.


----------



## bond32

Yeah, my D5 is audible over other things at higher speeds. I am going to use a pump bracket and tank reservoir next time I drain my loop.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Yeah, my D5 is audible over other things at higher speeds. I am going to use a pump bracket and tank reservoir next time I drain my loop.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> You're pulling 300W off the 2700k though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What speed did you set on the D5? Also what are your fan speeds?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides that also i would like to know your rad positioning, A single 290x with a high OC 2700k running pretty warm doesn't sound very good
> 
> Temps for GPU/CPU?


Well jeez do you need my mother's maiden name too?

I change around my fan speeds all the time for sake of silence, but they're the 1850RPM Sythe GT's and I usually have them at around 50%. The ones on the 360 are in pull, taking fresh air from my single case fan and expelling it through the rad and out the top. The fans on the 240 are in push, pulling fresh air from below my case through the 240 and, unfortunately, dumping the hot air into my case. I'll probably switch those to pull so that they send the hot air out the bottom. My D5 is always set on about "3" out of 5 speeds. I'm afraid I have no idea what the actual measured speed is, but it's just below the audible threshold, so that's what I use. When running [email protected] or any benchmark that stresses both my CPU and GPU at the same time, the 290X maxes out at 50C even, and my 2700K tops out at 60-70C, but never above 70. Is that enough info for you?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WuLF*
> 
> I'm super new to custom watercooling.. But I am thinking about doing it as I want to get a 290 and either watercool it or go with an Accelero Xtreme III..
> 
> I've always thought of custom watercooling as daunting, but it doesn't seem to be that difficult.
> 
> Quick question though: If I purchase something like this: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21236/ex-wat-271/XSPC_Raystorm_750_EX360_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_New_Rev_4_Pump_Included_w_Free_Dead-Water.html?tl=g30c321s1310
> 
> Will I need to purchase another radiator if I want to expand to cooling the GPU as well as the CPU? As I am trying to keep the cost of this down.. I may end up just going with the Arctic VGA cooler instead if this becomes too expensive.


Look at something with a D5 pump you will be way happier with the extra flow. XSPC kit with a D5 pump.Like the one below a little more expensive but when you start adding blocks well worth it. Thanks

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20838/ex-wat-262/XSPC_Raystorm_AX360_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Included_and_Free_Dead-Water.html?tl=g30c321


----------



## pc-illiterate

be sure to buy primochill lrt ADVANCED tubing before you start your assembly. the xspc tubing is junk and will cloud and leech plasticizer into your coolant causing your blocks to gum up. that would require you to buy new tubing, drain your loop, scrub your blocks clean, and then you get to put it all back together with your new tubing.
save the headache and waste of time. just remember youll need 7/16"x5/8" tubing.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> Well jeez do you need my mother's maiden name too?
> 
> I change around my fan speeds all the time for sake of silence, but they're the 1850RPM Sythe GT's and I usually have them at around 50%. The ones on the 360 are in pull, taking fresh air from my single case fan and expelling it through the rad and out the top. The fans on the 240 are in push, pulling fresh air from below my case through the 240 and, unfortunately, dumping the hot air into my case. I'll probably switch those to pull so that they send the hot air out the bottom. My D5 is always set on about "3" out of 5 speeds. I'm afraid I have no idea what the actual measured speed is, but it's just below the audible threshold, so that's what I use. When running [email protected] or any benchmark that stresses both my CPU and GPU at the same time, the 290X maxes out at 50C even, and my 2700K tops out at 60-70C, but never above 70. Is that enough info for you?


Sounds normal. Don't forget that your CPU temp will always be 10-20C higher than the GPU because of some weird stuff









You should try placing the 360 pulling fresh air from outside instead of making it intake from a single case fan
As for the 240 it's fine. Don't need to switch it to pull


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Sounds normal. Don't forget that your CPU temp will always be 10-20C higher than the GPU because of some weird stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should try placing the 360 pulling fresh air from outside instead of making it intake from a single case fan
> As for the 240 it's fine. Don't need to switch it to pull


I don't mean to sound sour, but I wasn't asking for advice.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> I don't mean to sound sour, but I wasn't asking for advice.


That's why i'm giving advice to lower your temps


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1nky*
> 
> I cant wait to see what nasty clocks you can get on it! mine so far is almost 5.7ghz on water


So Far with the Raystorm block not lapped and 8350 not lapped with 2 AX360's on a South Florida cool night 65deg F I was able to do this.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




http://valid.canardpc.com/dm7u2d

http://valid.canardpc.com/dm7u2d


----------



## d1nky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> So Far with the Raystorm block not lapped and 8350 not lapped with 2 AX360's on a South Florida cool night 65deg F I was able to do this.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/dm7u2d
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/dm7u2d


I thought we said nasty clocks?! not too bad for a 24/7 oc tho!

if the ambients aren't low you could aways stick one rad in a bucket of ice and bench that way!


----------



## carlhil2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitz9417*
> 
> hi guys im just wondering is the XSPC X2O 750 Dual Bay Reservoir and Pump V4
> anygood and is it nosiy


I have 2 installed inside of a Corsair 900D, 4930K and Titan in their own loop, cpu has a 420mm Monsta rad, with Firefox open, averages about 27c ---gpu is being cooled by one 140mm Monsta rad, averaging 27c, my room temp is 74f, the pumps aren't heard because they are inside of the case, not the bays, my setup serves me, with the pumps being only about $50.00, i have an extra as backup.....


----------



## bond32

What would be awesome is if XSPC gets back to me about the stupid leaking dual bay res. I have sent 3 emails now to the CS and have yet to hear back. I have the one with 4 screws on top, have to have paper towels in my case because it will produce a puddle if I am not careful.


----------



## kizwan

I rotated my CPU block 90 degrees (in/out ports now aligned vertically) & I get ~8C improvement. Look good? (details pc specification in sig)

FYI, I can compressed the springs further without the acrylic plate bending. Should I compressed the springs all the way down? Currently not compressed all the way down.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> What would be awesome is if XSPC gets back to me about the stupid leaking dual bay res. I have sent 3 emails now to the CS and have yet to hear back. I have the one with 4 screws on top, have to have paper towels in my case because it will produce a puddle if I am not careful.


According to http://www.xs-pc.com/d5-dual-bay-reservoir-safety-notice/ if your res is still under the 12 month warranty you should first try to go through your retailer to arrange a replacement. XSPC has been working though their resellers to make sure all the leaking V1 bay res's got replaced with V2s. Only after not getting a response from a reseller then you can try to email XSPC at [email protected] It's probably a safe bet that you'll need to include some sort of proof of purchase date.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> According to http://www.xs-pc.com/d5-dual-bay-reservoir-safety-notice/ if your res is still under the 12 month warranty you should first try to go through your retailer to arrange a replacement. XSPC has been working though their resellers to make sure all the leaking V1 bay res's got replaced with V2s. Only after not getting a response from a reseller then you can try to email XSPC at [email protected] It's probably a safe bet that you'll need to include some sort of proof of purchase date.


It was ordered through Performance-Pcs who, closed my account after they wouldn't refund me for an item and I filed a paypal dispute. So there is a 0% chance they will do anything to help me. After sending 3 emails to XSPC, they should have responded.


----------



## RX7-2nr

I installed a Raystorm EX240 kit on my machine yesterday. Leak tested overnight, then assembled everything. I ran it for a few hours, then put the computer to sleep. I came back a while later and woke it up from sleep. Shortly after waking it, my temp warnings started going off. My CPU hit 100C and I did a hard shutdown.

Turns out the pump never came on when it woke from sleep. I grabbed a spare PSU, plugged the pump in, but it did not come on. After taking the computer completely back apart to take the res out, I have found that if I slap the bottom or side of the res the pump will kick on. Sometimes it comes right on, sometimes it requires a slap.

This is the X20 750 V4 pump/res.

My temps were great though, I saw an 8c drop over the Corsair H60.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> I installed a Raystorm EX240 kit on my machine yesterday. Leak tested overnight, then assembled everything. I ran it for a few hours, then put the computer to sleep. I came back a while later and woke it up from sleep. Shortly after waking it, my temp warnings started going off. My CPU hit 100C and I did a hard shutdown.
> 
> Turns out the pump never came on when it woke from sleep. I grabbed a spare PSU, plugged the pump in, but it did not come on. After taking the computer completely back apart to take the res out, I have found that if I slap the bottom or side of the res the pump will kick on. Sometimes it comes right on, sometimes it requires a slap.
> 
> This is the X20 750 V4 pump/res.
> 
> My temps were great though, I saw an 8c drop over the Corsair H60.


You are not the first one....

Could be a wiring problem
or a "sticky" bearing possibly caused by an airbubble

hmmmmm


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

I got an EX420 kit and installed it into a lian li D8000.

managed to figure out the mounting for push pull (6 fans) along the venting at the back of the case, gotta get myself some more long screws to secure it. The ones that came with the kit are too short for mounting onto the case with rubber washers.

It fits but the plumbing needs to sit at the bottom, should be ok considering heat moves up and cold moves down.
Unfortunately it means i cant install a 2nd power supply and will have to use a blanking plate.

The case is great to work with, so much space.

Did anyone use the plastic clamps?



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## DaveLT

Um, heat doesn't move up and down in FORCED induction settings.


----------



## bond32

You should swap the direction of those fans. Looks like you have a lot of exhaust, you need lots of intake. Also the fittings up or down doesn't really matter, but up makes it easy to bleed.


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> You should swap the direction of those fans. Looks like you have a lot of exhaust, you need lots of intake. Also the fittings up or down doesn't really matter, but up makes it easy to bleed.


There are 6 120mm intakes at the front. and the front fans are 1 inch from the panel venting, it will have plenty of air rushing in. Theres also intakes at the bottom with filters.

They will be on a fan controller for silence, LED 120's fans on the 20 HD's and LED 140's over the CPU socket/Vid cards. If i dont like how it looks, i'll swap them for non glowing fans.

The 140mm xinruilian fans were only $9 each with sleeved cables.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/69/jmsv.jpg/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## bittbull187

Just finished my i74930k build, have xspc raystrom special edition will post pic soon


----------



## RX7-2nr

Im seeing a 11c drop over my H60. With my benchmark CPU settings (10 runs of IBT on high, 4 ghz, 200x20, 1.3 vcore, 1.88 PLL, 1.35 QPI, HT/speedstep/C1e/Cstates off) I was seeing 74c. With the raystorm kit installed its 63c, should be around 61-62 once the AS5 cures because my previous tests showed a 1-2c drop after a couple months of applying AS5. Ambient temp 23C at the start and at the end of the stress test gives me a 39C delta.

1c drop swapping the kit fans for AP15s in push. I saw no difference in temperatures when I added two more AP15s for Push/Pull.


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

Doing a 24 hour leak test, then going to transfer from the old case to the D8000!


----------



## rh pc

Official Member now, too! XSPC AX 360. Awesome stuff!!!! Quick question...currently running AMD 990FX, but if I want to switch to Intel, do I drain my loop first? Or can I just switch water blocks and backplate?

Thanks!


----------



## pc-illiterate

you have to drain your loop. intel has a different bracket than amd.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_498_1124&products_id=32331
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_498_1124&products_id=32332


----------



## rh pc

thx for the quick reply! Yeah, I was dreading this. XSPC shipped both brackets and backplates, so it's not a problem in that regard, but I really didn't feel like draining my loop. I just set it up 2 weeks ago. An amazing intel deal came along and i wanted to jump on it. Hmm, gotta think about this for a minute


----------



## kanaks

Season Updatesss:


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunnzAkimbo*
> 
> I got an EX420 kit and installed it into a lian li D8000.
> 
> managed to figure out the mounting for push pull (6 fans) along the venting at the back of the case, gotta get myself some more long screws to secure it. The ones that came with the kit are too short for mounting onto the case with rubber washers.
> 
> It fits but the plumbing needs to sit at the bottom, should be ok considering heat moves up and cold moves down.
> Unfortunately it means i cant install a 2nd power supply and will have to use a blanking plate.
> 
> The case is great to work with, so much space.
> 
> Did anyone use the plastic clamps?
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Why not remove the top fan, so you can mount the rad "the right way up"?

Or even better... mount the rad flush to the wall and mount the rear fans on the outside of the case


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> Season Updatesss:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks fantastic!


----------



## smithydan

Quick question, can anyone tell me what is the screw thread for the screw that goes into the bay for putting on the faceplate? Thanks

This is for the EX series reservoir


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Why not remove the top fan, so you can mount the rad "the right way up"?
> 
> Or even better... mount the rad flush to the wall and mount the rear fans on the outside of the case


Works fine, want everything inside the case, and will be later getting a much thicker radiator.


----------



## maza90210

Hey guys! Love the raystorm, anyway I plan on making a black/yellow theme PC, and I was thinking, can you paint the xspc faceplates that you can buy separately? I was thinking I could get an xspc white faceplate, and paint it yellow, it's that or get an EK clean CSQ nickel block


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maza90210*
> 
> Hey guys! Love the raystorm, anyway I plan on making a black/yellow theme PC, and I was thinking, can you paint the xspc faceplates that you can buy separately? I was thinking I could get an xspc white faceplate, and paint it yellow, it's that or get an EK clean CSQ nickel block


Or you could just keep the black faceplate and use yellow/amber LEDs with your raystorm. There's a hole on each side for up to four 3mm LEDs. Just a thought.

Or, yeah, I can't see any reason why you couldn't paint a Raystorm face plate whatever color you wanted.


----------



## maza90210

I was going to go with yellow, but most people don't recommend yellow LED, they say it kinda bleaches together and doesn't look good.


----------



## bittbull187

new rig cpu has not broken 52 degrees!!! @4.2ghz 1.25v


----------



## maza90210

Really nice PC!


----------



## bond32

Looks awesome indeed! I'm jealous of all that corsair dominator...


----------



## bittbull187

Haha 32gb Hehe also so far this raystorm is performing better than the One on my I7930


----------



## CroakV

Add me to the list! I think I have an xs of XSPC bits now.


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maza90210*
> 
> Hey guys! Love the raystorm, anyway I plan on making a black/yellow theme PC, and I was thinking, can you paint the xspc faceplates that you can buy separately? I was thinking I could get an xspc white faceplate, and paint it yellow, it's that or get an EK clean CSQ nickel block


White should be an easy colour change, but for the others or the stock faceplate, sanding it down to the bare aluminium and hitting it with primer would give the best results.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> White should be an easy colour change, but for the others or the stock faceplate, sanding it down to the bare aluminium and hitting it with primer would give the best results.


There is also the option of just white vinyl. Apply, peel off.


----------



## Shweller

Hey guys just got done doing my 24 hour leak check. Loving my temps so far, coming from an H100i. For some reason I cant upload from my phone but I am sure evryone knows what they look like anyways. I got the red faceplate and red leds to match.


----------



## hftjmac

Just got the block mounted and got 2 gpu blocks as well however somehow one of the nuts was missing from one of the gpu blocks and i have been unable to find a replacement anywhere. Does anybody know where i can buy a replacement nut or what size the nut and threading is to see if any generic nuts are available anywhere.


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

*Frikn reservoir is making a buzzing noise now, louder than my quiet case fans.*
Apart from that, cools very well. 4.8Ghz 1.5V 3930K in the 70's. Pretty good for a $219 Kit.

I also discovered a tweak for the 2011 socket.

After you mount the block via the instructions, grab the other set of screws and put them on as well.

Make sure the 2 smaller ends of the screws meet.

Then twist both screws at the same time and it will mount the block firmer against the CPU and give a few more degrees cooling.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunnzAkimbo*
> 
> *Frikn reservoir is making a buzzing noise now, louder than my quiet case fans.*
> Apart from that, cools very well. 4.8Ghz 1.5V 3930K in the 70's. Pretty good for a $219 Kit.
> 
> I also discovered a tweak for the 2011 socket.
> 
> After you mount the block via the instructions, grab the other set of screws and put them on as well.
> 
> Make sure the 2 smaller ends of the screws meet.
> 
> Then twist both screws at the same time and it will mount the block firmer against the CPU and give a few more degrees cooling.


I'm confused, lol


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

You get extra mounting screw kit for the other sockets.

After you mount the block as normal, grab the packet of extra screws and take out the small nuts.

Then screw the extra nuts on top of the existing nuts on the cpu block, and it will tighten the mount a bit more.


----------



## Subby

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunnzAkimbo*
> 
> *Frikn reservoir is making a buzzing noise now, louder than my quiet case fans.*.


Mine and others do the same, I have to keep the pump below 3 to keep it from happening. I have been meaning to call XSPC about this.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunnzAkimbo*
> 
> You get extra mounting screw kit for the other sockets.
> 
> After you mount the block as normal, grab the packet of extra screws and take out the small nuts.
> 
> Then screw the extra nuts on top of the existing nuts on the cpu block, and it will tighten the mount a bit more.


That's not causing bowing is it? Over tightening is a good way to ruin your water block bracket and or motherboard.


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

Its only finger tight mounted, and it works well.

I think the internal fins are not quite long enough or large enough for a Hex Core though with this particular Kit, but it's doing it job.


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

I'm ordering the copper cpu block ($109)


----------



## lurker2501

Build log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1426921/build-log-demon-water-cooled-fractal-design-arc-midi/0_30


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> 
> 
> Build log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1426921/build-log-demon-water-cooled-fractal-design-arc-midi/0_30


Nice. I'll soon have a 750d Raystorm build log to post.


----------



## holyking

Hi. I just f8nisg building my custom WC system. I have a problem with my XSPc raystorm block. I like to know what is your flow rate ? How you setup the loop? My problem is this block reduce my flow rate by 2 gpm. I am try to find out what is wrong. Any information would be helpful.


----------



## RX7-2nr

Are you sure you have the water going into the correct port on the block?


----------



## holyking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> Are you sure you have the water going into the correct port on the block?


The water goes from the port says "in" sign, so I don't think i am in the wrong way.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holyking*
> 
> Hi. I just f8nisg building my custom WC system. I have a problem with my XSPc raystorm block. I like to know what is your flow rate ? How you setup the loop? My problem is this block reduce my flow rate by 2 gpm. I am try to find out what is wrong. Any information would be helpful.


check for air and kinks. the raystorm block is the least restrictive block you can buy.


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holyking*
> 
> Hi. I just f8nisg building my custom WC system. I have a problem with my XSPc raystorm block. I like to know what is your flow rate ? How you setup the loop? My problem is this block reduce my flow rate by 2 gpm. I am try to find out what is wrong. Any information would be helpful.


You say it reduced your flow by 2gpm, what is your total system flow? 2gpm may be negligible if your system is flowing like a beast!









Also i found your older post of this

If you suspect the block is your issue bypass it with two 90 deg fittings like the one's in your other post on pump flow rates and then measure your flow rate.

That will eliminate the block as a restriction factor or prove it to be. You can then by pass each rad and make sure you don't have a clogged radiator.

Process of elimination.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holyking*
> 
> The water goes from the port says "in" sign, so I don't think i am in the wrong way.


Do you means the water exit the raystorm block at the "IN" port?


----------



## bond32

If you ever took the block apart, make sure you put that middle metal plate back in the correct orientation with the cooling copper plate. If you put it on wrong (perpendicular) then it won't cool for crap and make cause a huge drop in flow rate.


----------



## Jflisk

Dont know what your using to measure the flow or how you know your losing 2GPM threw the CPU block. But this site may be able to help you. It is Martins water cooling site. He has been around forever and has tested everything you can think of water cooling down to the water. You might be losing 2GPM total loop. This part of the site shows loss threw the radiators and fittings ECT. Hope it helps. Also as someone else has suggested make sure all the air is out of your loop(could throw off readings). Thanks

http://martinsliquidlab.org/pump-planning-guide/

you can use frozen cpu for pump information below may also help.Shows most pumps and information on them.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2128/ex-pmp-27/Swiftech_MCP655-B_12v_Water_Pump_w_38_Conversion_Kit_317_G


----------



## Jflisk

What pump are you running. I can give you my GPH flow if we have the same pump I have the D5 running at 317 GPH . Thanks


----------



## holyking

@Kitean the block has 2 port. On is label with "in", and the other one has nothing on it. my water go in from the "in" port then out from the port without any label. So i don't think i made a mistake. I rinse the part put. Water is clear.

@alanQtrmaine i confrim, it`s not the 45, 90 elbows because i used them to test my flow rate which i getting 2.5 gpm with 2 pumps.

@bond32 i never disassemble my block. If like you says, would xspc did that?

@Jflisk i am running 2 mcp pump with xspc duel pumps reservoir. I am using koolance flow meter to get the flow rate reading. My flow rate is at almost 2.78 gpm with just pump> radiator > radiator > flow meter> pump. But whrn i add cpu. I gets around 0.20 so weird.

So the cpu block you guys have doesn't drop as much as i do right?


----------



## bond32

No, I don't think there was anything defective about my block. I took pics and was quite concerned when I saw it, however I think it was nothing more than the acetyl material that shaved off when I screwed in the fitting.

Oh I see what you mean about the plate... Sorry had lots of coffee. Honestly if you're sure your loop direction is correct that would be my next step - drain then disassemble the cpu block. It's very easy, only 4 alan screws. I believe they are metric however so make sure you get the right size - if you damage the head it would be bad. Just make note of how it came apart, just has a rubber o-ring and a small metal plate to increase the water velocity.

Also try not to touch too much with your bare hands. If you have latex gloves it's better. I would consider it regular practice to disassemble the cpu block and clean it every month or so but I have OCD lol...


----------



## holyking

Disassemble this block would void warrenty?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

If you are getting very much restriction from this block (martin's testing found it to be one of the least restrictive CPU blocks on the market) then I would suspect that there's radiator crud or plasticizer gunk or something similar causing a serious blockage. Did you thoroughly flush your radiators prior to using them?

Someone can correct me if I'm mistaken, but the only company I'm aware of that voids their warranty on watercooling parts if you disassemble them is Swiftech's ridiculous policy on their pumps. In any case I would always take a part and inspect / clean anything I own if I suspect any kind of issue with it, and I'll avoid any company's products like the bubonic plague that might try to void my warranty for doing so.


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holyking*
> 
> @Kitean the block has 2 port. On is label with "in", and the other one has nothing on it. my water go in from the "in" port then out from the port without any label. So i don't think i made a mistake. I rinse the part put. Water is clear.
> 
> @alanQtrmaine i confrim, it`s not the 45, 90 elbows because i used them to test my flow rate which i getting 2.5 gpm with 2 pumps.
> 
> @bond32 i never disassemble my block. If like you says, would xspc did that?
> 
> @Jflisk i am running 2 mcp pump with xspc duel pumps reservoir. I am using koolance flow meter to get the flow rate reading. My flow rate is at almost 2.78 gpm with just pump> radiator > radiator > flow meter> pump. But whrn i add cpu. I gets around 0.20 so weird.
> 
> So the cpu block you guys have doesn't drop as much as i do right?


No I was not questioning the elbows. Just stating that two 90 deg elbows would be a good by pass test for the block. that restriction should equal what the block is if not slightly less restriction. In turn the only way to rule out the block quickly is to use two of those elbows. to make a U and run the waterloop without the raystorm water block.

If your gpm stays the same than its most likely rad related and then by pass one rad at a time until you get the flow that you should after using the flow calculator from Martinsliquidlab.


----------



## holyking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> No I was not questioning the elbows. Just stating that two 90 deg elbows would be a good by pass test for the block. that restriction should equal what the block is if not slightly less restriction. In turn the only way to rule out the block quickly is to use two of those elbows. to make a U and run the waterloop without the raystorm water block.
> 
> If your gpm stays the same than its most likely rad related and then by pass one rad at a time until you get the flow that you should after using the flow calculator from Martinsliquidlab.


Thank you. I tried that, and I ruled out all others components. My flow rate doesn't drop until i add this cpu block.
Another question, do you put the cpu block right after the pump or after the rad?


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holyking*
> 
> Thank you. I tried that, and I ruled out all others components. My flow rate doesn't drop until i add this cpu block.
> Another question, do you put the cpu block right after the pump or after the rad?


I have mine installed after the pump. RES > Pump > CPU > Rad > Rad > RES

I wouldn't think that it would matter but it may be causing a bit of a problem in an extreme case. as long as the res stays full it really shouldn't matter.

But I'd say at this point its worth trying anything. just remember, what ever direction the water is flowing must go to the "in" port no matter what side the pump is on.

If that doesn't work take the block apart and inspect it like the others here have said.









May have some trash in it either from storage or shipping or who knows.


----------



## holyking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If you are getting very much restriction from this block (martin's testing found it to be one of the least restrictive CPU blocks on the market) then I would suspect that there's radiator crud or plasticizer gunk or something similar causing a serious blockage. Did you thoroughly flush your radiators prior to using them?
> 
> Someone can correct me if I'm mistaken, but the only company I'm aware of that voids their warranty on watercooling parts if you disassemble them is Swiftech's ridiculous policy on their pumps. In any case I would always take a part and inspect / clean anything I own if I suspect any kind of issue with it, and I'll avoid any company's products like the bubonic plague that might try to void my warranty for doing so.


I flushed them, and I ran the tests just radiator which single and duel . The flow rate is 2.5 GPM. I see some brown booger from looking in to the port earlier today. It is very small amount. Would that cause such problem?


----------



## Jflisk

I have the same flow meter are you using any special fan controller to get a read off of it. I had to buy another koolance part to get an accurate read off the flow meter for my set up or any other set up thats not koolance.

http://koolance.com/adt-fm03-flow-meter-frequency-adapter


----------



## holyking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I have the same flow meter are you using any special fan controller to get a read off of it. I had to buy another koolance part to get an accurate read off the flow meter for my set up or any other set up thats not koolance.
> 
> http://koolance.com/adt-fm03-flow-meter-frequency-adapter


Cw611 would reads this meter.


----------



## Jflisk

I hate to tell you something without this. i do not think you are getting an accurate read.It allows a normal fan header to read the rpm of the flow meter. Also with my set up I can set the accurate GPH thats where i got the 317 from to give you earlier. But as far a brown snot as you put it sounds like brown algea. How long was the loop in operation and did it have any algeacide(silver/deadwater/liquid utopia/jungle algea no more) in it.

http://koolance.com/adt-fm03-flow-meter-frequency-adapter


----------



## holyking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I hate to tell you something without this. i do not think you are getting an accurate read.It allows a normal fan header to read the rpm of the flow meter. Also with my set up I can set the accurate GPH thats where i got the 317 from to give you earlier. But as far a brown snot as you put it sounds like brown algea. How long was the loop in operation and did it have any algeacide(silver/deadwater/liquid utopia/jungle algea no more) in it.
> 
> http://koolance.com/adt-fm03-flow-meter-frequency-adapter


Well, how accurate the flow meter i can't tell. But when i can tell how fast the water flow by putting flash light on the tube. Belive me low flow rate compare to 2 gpm has hugh different. My system ran for about a week.


----------



## pc-illiterate

you can tell flow rate from shining a flashlight on the tube? you shouldnt see anything to suggest flow rate looking at the tube. are you watching air bubbles fly by? if you are, get the air out. see what happens then.


----------



## RX7-2nr




----------



## holyking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> you can tell flow rate from shining a flashlight on the tube? you shouldnt see anything to suggest flow rate looking at the tube. are you watching air bubbles fly by? if you are, get the air out. see what happens then.


No matter how clean the system. There are tense to have some very fine dust. You just watch them go by. Try it.


----------



## pc-illiterate

no dust IN my loop thank you. dust on the rads and fans ok but definitely not in it.
and i just drained and rerun tubing today. cleaned the rads. no dust anywhere.

btw, dust in water is mud. youre probably watching air bubbles go by. you can not see water flowing in a properly bled loop.


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

I think i saw a sardine in my tubing

meh, probably help lower temps.


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunnzAkimbo*
> 
> I think i saw a sardine in my tubing
> 
> meh, probably help lower temps.


I think they are a cold water species.


----------



## Jflisk

Thats okay I use Jungle algea no more in my loop to keep down the algea. Theres nothing that can live in my water not even fish. You should not be able to see air bubbles by the way. Would mean 1 of 2 things loop is not properly bleed or theres a leak.


----------



## Jos8coreHead

Found out my G1/4 barbed fittings were scratched, so they are being replaced but I don't know if these are nickel plated brass or something else?


----------



## bond32

Just a little update, so far the tank reservoir for my d5 pump has made a world of difference over the bay reservoir. I tried a number of things when I used the bay res, never had any luck. Either had to run the pump at full speed, which while noisy, was better than the vibrations produced at lower speeds.

I'm not using any of the 5.25 bays now... Need to use them somehow. Maybe figure out how to get a rad or some fans in there


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Just a little update, so far the tank reservoir for my d5 pump has made a world of difference over the bay reservoir. I tried a number of things when I used the bay res, never had any luck. Either had to run the pump at full speed, which while noisy, was better than the vibrations produced at lower speeds.
> 
> I'm not using any of the 5.25 bays now... Need to use them somehow. Maybe figure out how to get a rad or some fans in there


Well you could have a 2nd Res without the pump so you can see water flow and levels without taking the side panels off.


----------



## Subby

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Just a little update, so far the tank reservoir for my d5 pump has made a world of difference over the bay reservoir. I tried a number of things when I used the bay res, never had any luck. Either had to run the pump at full speed, which while noisy, was better than the vibrations produced at lower speeds.
> 
> I'm not using any of the 5.25 bays now... Need to use them somehow. Maybe figure out how to get a rad or some fans in there


Did they replace it for you or did you just buy it?


----------



## bond32

They replaced it with the bay res that doesn't leak. I've been using it for a while and it works fine, just makes a lot of noise in my case. The tank res is almost silent with the foam I put under it.


----------



## Jflisk

here goes a forum that explains the lamptron needs the flow adapter.Found it while i was reading.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1430126/typical-flow-rates-with-2-d5-pumps/10


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

my 750 pump has gone ultra quiet now... been about 3 times now that air bubbles were trapped.
Got all my fans on minimum and can only here the light vibration from it.


----------



## ethansdad

hello all - quick question - just going through the process of bleeding out the air in my XSPC AX240 kit.

I'm using a Asus Z87 PRO mobo with a Nanoxia Deep Silience 1 case.

Any suggestions on where to connect the two 120mm fans from the kit? Should I use the mobo or the Nanoxia fan controller?

I figured using the Fan Xpert on the mobo would be the way to go, but I only see one CPU Fan header, however its a four pin and the two fans are 3 pins.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!


----------



## pc-illiterate

if you can use the case fan controller use it. use the cpu header to hook up the pump rpm wire so the pc will power down if the pump stops.


----------



## Jos8coreHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> if you can use the case fan controller use it. use the cpu header to hook up the pump rpm wire so the pc will power down if the pump stops.


Wait, they have an RPM wire now for those kits? By the way what pump is it? 750 Rev 4 or a D5?


----------



## ethansdad

I have the 750, not the D5 - I don't see a rpm wire - just the molex coming out the back


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ethansdad*
> 
> I have the 750, not the D5 - I don't see a rpm wire - just the molex coming out the back


this is why you assume nothing.
there still isnt a benefit to use the cpu pwm connector. as soon as you put a load on the cpu, the fans would ramp up (before the water even gets warmer) and slow down as soon as the cpu loses load and cools to the temp of the water, almost instantly (before the water actually reaches its original temp).


----------



## Jos8coreHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> this is why you assume nothing.
> there still isnt a benefit to use the cpu pwm connector. as soon as you put a load on the cpu, the fans would ramp up (before the water even gets warmer) and slow down as soon as the cpu loses load and cools to the temp of the water, almost instantly (before the water actually reaches its original temp).


Actually, what I did is re-wire the 3 fan's (or two for you. don't connect more than 3 on the CPU fan socket due to current overdraw) inputs from one of their own connector's and fused them, they now power off on one mobo fan channel, no bay fan controller necessary. Then I used Speedfan (program) to adjust temp/speed accordingly. It's pretty damn easy.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jos8coreHead*
> 
> Actually, what I did is re-wire the 3 fan's (or two for you. don't connect more than 3 on the CPU fan socket due to current overdraw) inputs from one of their own connector's and fused them, they now power off on one mobo fan channel, no bay fan controller necessary. Then I used Speedfan (program) to adjust temp/speed accordingly. It's pretty damn easy.


Actually depending on actual current drawn 4 fans is no problem if you have a good quality mobo like a gigabyte UD series

I ran 4 AFB1212Hs at full speed 24/7 for 1 week without any problem


----------



## Jflisk

I would use a coolant temperature sensor and a fan controller.When you switch to water most temp sensors become invalid. But the water temp becomes a constant. Also gives better control of fans.

Temp sensor
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20268/tmp-77/XSPC_LCD_Temperature_Sensor_V2_-_White_Backlight_w_Inline_Sensor_.html?tl=g30c229s579

temp computer
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13696/bus-271/Aquacomputer_Aquaero_5_LT_USB_Fan_Controller_Liquid_System_Controller_53095.html?tl=g47c17s422


----------



## ethansdad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> this is why you assume nothing.
> there still isnt a benefit to use the cpu pwm connector. as soon as you put a load on the cpu, the fans would ramp up (before the water even gets warmer) and slow down as soon as the cpu loses load and cools to the temp of the water, almost instantly (before the water actually reaches its original temp).


Did you mean there isn't a benefit whether using pwm or non-pwm fans?

Thanks all for all the replies and ideas.

This is my first water cooling build and I ended up using the on-board fan headers to see what happens and learn a bit from the experience.

So far, the CPU temps are around 23C.

Was thinking of replacing the non-pwm fans that came with the Raystorm Rad with pwm fans.


----------



## pc-illiterate

im saying it doesnt really do any good using the motherboard cpu fan header to control the radiator fans.

cpu heats up and kicks the fan speed up. the water hasnt absorbed any heat yet. noise for no reason.
cpu cools down and radiator fans slow back down. the water is still at its hottest point but the fans are running slow and not removing the heat.

summary, the fans are not running at a higher speed when they need to be.


----------



## wstanci3

Question here if someone could help me.
I am thinking of making my first watercooling loop.
I was currently looking at this one
http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-RayStorm-D5-AX360-WaterCooling-Kit_39371.html
I also have a Swiftech H220 that I am currently using and one of the good things about it is its upgradability into a custom loop. My case is a Carbide 540 air, so I have clearance for both.
Is there anyone who uses that kit and if so, how does it perform and would you recommend it. Also, if you feel that there is a product/kit that my money could be better spent elsewhere, please recommend. I need tips from vets.








Thanks


----------



## pc-illiterate

if you have an h220 that works just fine with no problems, there is no need to buy the xspc kit. all you need to buy are radiators and the fans for them and your gpu blocks. well i guess youll need more fittings and tubing but thats a given just as more fans for more rads.


----------



## wstanci3

Ok, that sounds great.
1. I'm assuming the XSPC radiator is a fine choice?
2. Which fans are recommended?


----------



## pc-illiterate

it depends where you are. alphacool rads are the better value. i love them and so does everyone that uses them. i will push for anyone to buy them instead because i love them so much








fan-wise, gentle typhoon ap-15 if you have a fan controller and ap-14 if you dont. get them while you can. they have been discontinued and when they are gone, they are gone.


----------



## bond32

With that case you would be good with either the st30 or the xspc ex360 rads. I had that case at one time, highly doubt you can fit anything more than a 30mm rad in it. I too had the h220 but it wasn't enough for me.


----------



## pc-illiterate

it depends if you want push and pull or push or pull.
25mm fans with 55mm for a rad. or if you put the fans between the case and front bezel, you have 80mm for a rad.
really it just depends on how many fans you want to use.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1402099/build-log-water-cooled-corsair-carbide-series-air-540/180#post_20405743


----------



## wstanci3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> With that case you would be good with either the st30 or the xspc ex360 rads. I had that case at one time, highly doubt you can fit anything more than a 30mm rad in it. I too had the h220 but it wasn't enough for me.


Okay... I am thinking of cooling a 3770k and a 780Ti w/EK water block. Do you think the H220 will be enough with a 360mm radiator? I want to push the voltage quite a bit with the Ti(1.3-1.35v 24/7).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> it depends if you want push and pull or push or pull.
> 25mm fans with 55mm for a rad. or if you put the fans between the case and front bezel, you have 80mm for a rad.
> really it just depends on how many fans you want to use.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1402099/build-log-water-cooled-corsair-carbide-series-air-540/180#post_20405743


I plan to do a simple pull configuration.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wstanci3*
> 
> Okay... I am thinking of cooling a 3770k and a 780Ti w/EK water block. Do you think the H220 will be enough with a 360mm radiator? I want to push the voltage quite a bit with the Ti(1.3-1.35v 24/7).
> I plan to do a simple pull configuration.


That was my next question Is the pump that comes with the H220 going to have enough flow to push the water threw the blocks. 1GPM is not much. From everywhere I read your base remainder should be 1GPM after all rads and blocks are taken into consideration.

Here goes some in from martins on it but i dont see the flow anywhere
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/01/27/swiftech-h220-prefilled-2x120mm-water-cooling-kit/

Swiftech H220

Speed PWM adjustable 1200 ~ 3000 RPM
Voltage 12v
Power 6W
Connector 4-Pin
Flow Rate Approx 1 GPM
MTBF 60,000 Hours (independent lab certification)

From here
http://www.overclockers.com/swiftech-h220-lcs-all-in-one-water-cooler-review


----------



## pc-illiterate

as you can see with gleniu's build, he used st30 rads everywhere and had push/pull corsair fans. you can fit an xt45 in the top and front of that case with 1 set of fans.
if you look earlier in that thread, he gives dimensions of every part of that case in pictures. i think he even measured after he put in his motherboard.
in his pictures, he could have used a ut60 with 1 set of fans in the top.


----------



## bond32

The H220 would indeed be able to produce the needed flow. It won't have a problem with an added gpu and rad. I went into a lot of detail with this in the h220 forum.... It's a strong little pump.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> The H220 would indeed be able to produce the needed flow. It won't have a problem with an added gpu and rad. I went into a lot of detail with this in the h220 forum.... It's a strong little pump.


I think I am going to have a look at the H220 in the forums. Swiftech and martin chime in on the forum. There also looks to be a lot of good member from the forums there.

Referenced forum
http://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-h320-and-cm-glacer-240l-360l-owners-club/8430


----------



## bond32

Gabe from Swiftech frequently chimes in there. Part of their selling point is to be able to still provide flow for an added gpu, radiator, what not. I personally ran the h220 on my amd fx system a while back in a 540 case, added a swiftech 360 radiator and had 2 7970 gpu blocks in parallel.


----------



## wstanci3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> That was my next question Is the pump that comes with the H220 going to have enough flow to push the water threw the blocks. 1GPM is not much. From everywhere I read your base remainder should be 1GPM after all rads and blocks are taken into consideration.
> 
> Here goes some in from martins on it but i dont see the flow anywhere
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/01/27/swiftech-h220-prefilled-2x120mm-water-cooling-kit/
> 
> Swiftech H220
> 
> Speed PWM adjustable 1200 ~ 3000 RPM
> Voltage 12v
> Power 6W
> Connector 4-Pin
> Flow Rate Approx 1 GPM
> MTBF 60,000 Hours (independent lab certification)
> 
> From here
> http://www.overclockers.com/swiftech-h220-lcs-all-in-one-water-cooler-review


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> The H220 would indeed be able to produce the needed flow. It won't have a problem with an added gpu and rad. I went into a lot of detail with this in the h220 forum.... It's a strong little pump.


Thanks to both of you for your input. I see the results and I am impressed by the results for such a little pump. I am just wondering if I would rather sell off the H220 down the line and invest in a proper water loop. Granted, the H220 would be fine in my system, but I am thinking it over. How much performance gain would I have over the H220 if I grabbed the kit I was talking about earlier, with a 240 radiator? 3-5 degrees Celsius, maybe?








http://www.xs-pc.com/watercooling-kits/raystorm-750-ax360-watercooling-kit
Again, thanks to all of you for your input and recommendations.


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wstanci3*
> 
> Question here if someone could help me.
> I am thinking of making my first watercooling loop.
> I was currently looking at this one
> http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-RayStorm-D5-AX360-WaterCooling-Kit_39371.html
> I also have a Swiftech H220 that I am currently using and one of the good things about it is its upgradability into a custom loop. My case is a Carbide 540 air, so I have clearance for both.
> Is there anyone who uses that kit and if so, how does it perform and would you recommend it. Also, if you feel that there is a product/kit that my money could be better spent elsewhere, please recommend. I need tips from vets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


I'm running the AX360 D5 bay res kit kit along with an AX240 in my Corsair 540. I had to mount the fans outside, losing the filter, since there's only about 15mm clearance at the top between the two rads. And if I flip my 240 so the ports are toward the front, there's just a sliver of clearance between the two rads, but keep in mind that the AX240 is not only thick, it's a bit long (_that's not what she said_).



But I'm happy with the radiators, they do _really_ well in push only, do well with low fan speeds, and they look damned nice, clean and understated, IMHO the best looking rads on the market right now. But I like understated and I'm not a fan of how fat 60mm rads look, but do like their performance, and the AX series performs on par with a lot of 60MM rads out there, and far better than most if not all 30mm units.

No complaints about the CPU block at all, it does its job better than the H100i it replaced, and that's with two overclocked/overvolted 780 Ti's in the loop as well.

And yeah, as a guy who claims to like understated, you gotta wonder why I added the red badges. It was to go with my build theme as the white lettering stood out a bit, but they badges are a bit tacky, I know.


----------



## wstanci3

Absolutely gorgeous build. I am always impressed by the sleeving that people do.
Just out of curiosity, what voltage and clocks are your cards at?


----------



## CroakV

1250 at 1.187v for 24/7 use, though I've hit 1350 at the current maximum 1.212v _mostly_ stable. But at 1250, two TI's are more than enough for my single 2560x1440 60Hz monitor.

And I have to thank Amazon, BitFenix, Akasa, and Corsair for my sleeved cables. The only real "modding" I did for this build was to remove the hotswap connectors and trays, then flatten the drive rails back into the floor, but that lack of mod _necessity_ is one of the beautiful things about a 540 Air.


----------



## soulstaker

Got my EX240/Raystorm Kit along with more AP-15s on my fcpu cart. This will be my first watercooling loop.

Do i have to get any tools to mount it or just philips screwdriver + wrench should do?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulstaker*
> 
> Got my EX240/Raystorm Kit along with more AP-15s on my fcpu cart. This will be my first watercooling loop.
> 
> Do i have to get any tools to mount it or just philips screwdriver + wrench should do?


Phillips screw driver yep - no wrenches. A quarter to turn the fittings in. A little silver nitrate or arctic silver 5 and you should be good to go. Liquid always distilled walmart distilled is best. Something to keep the algae down dead water-Silver- liquid utopia-Jungle algae no more. Take your time and have fun with it.


----------



## soulstaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Phillips screw driver yep - no wrenches. A quarter to turn the fittings in. A little silver nitrate or arctic silver 5 and you should be good to go. Liquid always distilled walmart distilled is best. Something to keep the algae down dead water-Silver- liquid utopia-Jungle algae no more. Take your time and have fun with it.


Oh, thanks for reminding me of AS5. Added it and finished the order. Walmart here doesn't sell distilled water, but i should have no problem finding it.

It should arrive here next month. Wish i could afford express shipping, but $200 more, nope haha


----------



## pc-illiterate

i wouldnt buy as5. mx-4 or pk3


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulstaker*
> 
> Oh, thanks for reminding me of AS5. Added it and finished the order. Walmart here doesn't sell distilled water, but i should have no problem finding it.
> 
> It should arrive here next month. Wish i could afford express shipping, but $200 more, nope haha


Wow your in Brazil.Your Welcome


----------



## bond32

You should get a quarter too to tighten the compression fittings


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> im saying it doesnt really do any good using the motherboard cpu fan header to control the radiator fans.
> 
> cpu heats up and kicks the fan speed up. the water hasnt absorbed any heat yet. noise for no reason.
> 
> cpu cools down and radiator fans slow back down. the water is still at its hottest point but the fans are running slow and not removing the heat.
> 
> summary, the fans are not running at a higher speed when they need to be.


Solder a "big" capacitor+diode inline the fan wire, and it'll keep running after the peak dropped off....








If using voltage control.... dont try this with PWM fans, wont work


----------



## RX7-2nr

Regular Raystorm EX240 kits come with XSPC 1/2" barbs. The D5 model comes with compression fittings.


----------



## soulstaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Wow your in Brazil.Your Welcome


Exactly the reason why I looked into watercooling. Can't cool anything when my ambient temperature is 28°c when it's 4 am.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> Regular Raystorm EX240 kits come with XSPC 1/2" barbs. The D5 model comes with compression fittings.


Mine is the D5 variant. The other one doesn't seem to be that reliable...


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulstaker*
> 
> Exactly the reason why I looked into watercooling. Can't cool anything when my ambient temperature is 28°c when it's 4 am.
> 
> Mine is the D5 variant. The other one doesn't seem to be that reliable...


Beat you.

Our lowest ambient last night was 29.2 C at 5am, after a 43.1 C **** day.
My 420 Kit did well on a 4.7Ghz 3930K @1.5V, but the radiator has 6 x 140's.

Since installing more PCIe cards, it now doesn't like any higher GHZ, so all my pcie slots are full and the ram slots are all full and the sata ports are all full, and my drive bays on the D8000 are all full (20 HD's + 2 optical drives) and the 6 x 5.25" bays are all full.

The system still ran very well, but i do force the 3 680's into power saving mode while in desktop. The 3 vid cards make the most heat, the cpu can warmup the 420 Kit probably about 40C water temp.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulstaker*
> 
> Exactly the reason why I looked into watercooling. Can't cool anything when my ambient temperature is 28°c when it's 4 am.
> 
> Mine is the D5 variant. The other one doesn't seem to be that reliable...



3am Melbourne









PC Temps at that moment


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

Suns not out, still frikn hotter than a spring day......

That's real odd for Melbourne to have that kinda night temp.

I reckon the PC would be cooler in the oven.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunnzAkimbo*
> 
> Suns not out, still frikn hotter than a spring day......
> 
> That's real odd for Melbourne to have that kinda night temp.
> 
> I reckon the PC would be cooler in the oven.


Haha yep, PC has already crashed 3 times today, back to stock settings as it's still 45 degrees in the HQ. And they've cancelled matches for the Aus Open because of the heat, 42 degrees tomorrow as well


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Haha yep, PC has already crashed 3 times today, back to stock settings as it's still 45 degrees in the HQ. And they've cancelled matches for the Aus Open because of the heat, 42 degrees tomorrow as well


Good luck for this year's weather mates!







I've been reading about the insane heatwave yesterday in the news. My cousins in Perth also told me about some insane fire


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Good luck for this year's weather mates!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been reading about the insane heatwave yesterday in the news. My cousins in Perth also told me about some insane fire


Cheers mate, I'd love to swap the Arctic Blast North America is experiencing for 1 day. There's been bushfires in every State so far, our power was cut for about 30 minutes today, an hour yesterday, Rolling Blackouts across all of Victoria, Ambulances have sped past our place at a ratio of every 10 minutes.
People may think that these temps are small fry, but it's a different heat here, I've Mates from Sydney who put up with insane amounts of humidity and generally experience "hotter" temperatures along with some friends from the Middle East, two minutes into a Melbourne heatwave and they end up Lobsters, the sun here BURNS, temperatures they can endure hotter in Sydney and further North they can't handle here.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Cheers mate, I'd love to swap the Arctic Blast North America is experiencing for 1 day. There's been bushfires in every State so far, our power was cut for about 30 minutes today, an hour yesterday, Rolling Blackouts across all of Victoria, Ambulances have sped past our place at a ratio of every 10 minutes.
> People may think that these temps are small fry, but it's a different heat here, I've Mates from Sydney who put up with insane amounts of humidity and generally experience "hotter" temperatures along with some friends from the Middle East, two minutes into a Melbourne heatwave and they end up Lobsters, the sun here BURNS, temperatures they can endure hotter in Sydney and further North they can't handle here.


Wow. I've been to Perth a few years ago and it was nearly 40C. Roasted pig for lunch


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Wow. I've been to Perth a few years ago and it was nearly 40C. Roasted pig for lunch


Most residents of our fine Western State end up smelling like bacon during the summer


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Most residents of our fine Western State end up smelling like bacon during the summer


Like what happens when you put your face next to a running full blast R9 290


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

Australia needs water cooling...


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Sign me up


----------



## RX7-2nr

This XSPC bayres has got to go. I can't stand the buzzing anymore.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> This XSPC bayres has got to go. I can't stand the buzzing anymore.


What's buzzing? I reinstalled mine after using the tank res for a while, seems much better now with my current setup.


----------



## RX7-2nr

The res buzzes in the drive bay. The pump has a vibration, and it just goes straight to the frame of the case.


----------



## Slaughtahouse

That's why I installed mine 1 slot up. The pump was driven into my bay and warping it on the lowest install point. I would imagine it would sound horrible too if I left there and ran it. I hate how the pump sticks out from the bottom of the reservoir. Such a stupid flaw IMO.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> The res buzzes in the drive bay. The pump has a vibration, and it just goes straight to the frame of the case.


Same here with the D5 pump and bay res. Anyone have any ideas on quieting this thing down


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Same here with the D5 pump and bay res. Anyone have any ideas on quieting this thing down


Rubber washers between the screws and screw holes?


----------



## RX7-2nr

There is not enough space. The res fits very tight in the drive bay of my 750D.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> There is not enough space. The res fits very tight in the drive bay of my 750D.


I might try a piece of black tape with the holes cut out.


----------



## RX7-2nr

I'm just going to deal with it until I put in an EK X-RES D5 combo.


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Cant you mount it up top like I did? It should prevent any noise.


----------



## RX7-2nr

I'll give that a try, but right now I've got my fan controller in that slot. The controller looks much better on top of the res, it also makes sense in case of leaks.


----------



## Slaughtahouse

I know. It's the same with my case. I made a custom LED controller in the front panel and I rather have it up top. Also, the fill port can only be accessed by unscrewing the pump/res. That being said, it wouldnt fit in the bottom for me because the pump sticks out about 1-2mm lower then the res. You can probably sand that round profile off but I rather not just in case I have to RMA it in the future.


----------



## RX7-2nr

I'm just using the X20 750 pump and I had planned on eventually replacing it anyway. This just makes me want to do it sooner.


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Oh. I thought you were using this style.



So if yours is flat... that's strange. This is what you have?


----------



## RX7-2nr

Yes


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Ah, my bad. I thought they were all the same res


----------



## RX7-2nr

I tried putting the res in the top two slots, but the socket where the power cable comes out of the back hits the fan on my radiator. I taped a long strip of foam completely around the sides and bottom. The foam I used is just 1mm thick craft foam that I had laying around from making some fan gaskets a while back. It seems to have made a difference, but I'll just have to see. Anything to keep the direct contact down should help limit the transfer of vibration.


----------



## ethansdad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> This XSPC bayres has got to go. I can't stand the buzzing anymore.


Does it sound like an ol' fish tank? If it does, I know EXACTLY what you mean! I am about to throw my hard-earned money on this brand new rig out the frickin window - all because of the buzzing coming from this pump! Okay, just the pump, everything else can stay









I emailed the retailer, Frozen-cpu, and the response I got was that this was a high end fish tank pump, and its suppose to sound like that. I was told that they only deal in new parts so they don't take back returns or trade-ins/ups. The recommendation was to put foam in between the res and the bay or to upgrade to the D5 as that pump doesn't have that issue.

I'm running the XSPC Raystorm 750 AX240 combo inside of a Nanoxia Deep Silence 1 case (this thing is foamed out!). The only thing I can hear is this annoying buzz/hum from the pump; the fans and everything else is completely silent!

I sent an email to XSPC and am awaiting a response.


----------



## RX7-2nr

Yeah, I really doubt they will RMA it because of the buzz.


----------



## Slaughtahouse

That's bull. They should. You paid for a product, good money too, and you are dissatisfied with it's performance. The reservoir should be able to operate without making a ton of noise. I understand that noise is acceptable and you can't get around that. But if it's shaking your case and it's the loudest component, then something is wrong. They should at the very least allow you to trade it for another different res/pump or give you credit through the retailer.


----------



## ethansdad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaughtahouse*
> 
> That's bull. They should. You paid for a product, good money too, and you are dissatisfied with it's performance. The reservoir should be able to operate without making a ton of noise. I understand that noise is acceptable and you can't get around that. But if it's shaking your case and it's the loudest component, then something is wrong. They should at the very least allow you to trade it for another different res/pump or give you credit through the retailer.


@Slaughtahouse - I'm with you. I even suggested to them that I would return the 750 res/pump and pay the difference on the upgrade to the d5 and was told that they only dealt in new parts.


----------



## bond32

Those of you with a D5, what speed do you run it at? I'm curious how low I can run mine and still get decent temps


----------



## BabylonDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Those of you with a D5, what speed do you run it at? I'm curious how low I can run mine and still get decent temps


I've read that setting it anywhere from 1-3 is acceptable. I plan to run mine at 3 24/7.


----------



## CroakV

I either run mine at 2-2.5 (2400-2800 RPM) or 5 (4800 RPM). 1 to 2ish (1700-2300 RPM) is just too low flow in my restrictive CPU/ SLI GPU loop with several angle fittings as well (won't even spin my flow meter impeller) and anything in the 3-4 range (3000-4500 RPM) makes far too much noise with my particular D5, both in vibration and whine. It's fully decoupled too, resting on a Shoggy Sandwich, btw, and makes the same noises either in an XSPC dual bay res or on its own with an XSPC D5 pump top.

As for temps, there's about 3c difference 2400 and 4800 RPM in my loop, and a much bigger delta between reservoir temps (water dumps there after going through CPU and GPU blocks) and radiator outlet temps (full pass through an AX360 and AX240 after the pump) when running lower flow, which is telling.

Thing is, at 2400 RPM on the pump and lower than 1000 RPM on the fans, my water temps are still lower than 20C delta from ambient, and that's _plenty_ good enough for me. I'm not looking to set world records here, and the 10C delta that's often held up as gospel here and elsewhere isn't a _requirement_.

If I _had_ to put up with 2400 RPM fans and dual D5's running at full tilt, I'd simply give up getting wet, as noise reduction is as big a thing for me as lower temps and higher overclocks when it comes to water cooling.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Those of you with a D5, what speed do you run it at? I'm curious how low I can run mine and still get decent temps


I run mine at 5 but have been thinking about turning it down to 4.4 is where the ones without speed control are set at.


----------



## bond32

Cool, good to know. I dropped mine to 1-2 setting which is 2270ish rpm. This makes it inaudible. I noticed my gpu got a few degrees warmer (3-4) which is nothing. Suppose it will be good, all i'm cooling are the cpu and gpu with a 420 phoyba g-changer and an xspc ex480.

Just made the quiet pump even quieter!


----------



## RX7-2nr




----------



## bond32

+Rep, thanks.


----------



## Slaughtahouse

I have mine at rock bottom 1. Lowest noise and temps didn't change that much for me at higher settings. I also have Corsair SP 120's on quiet too. Thing is a silent beast.

Funny thing, sometimes when I boot, I get a cpu fan speed error and I have to go into the bios. Dem fans spin so slow, my pc thinks something is wrong ahahhaa


----------



## holyking

Ok, i don't know what happen. I got my block from the mail. It different then my original block because of the marks. I am now running 1.89- 1.99 GPM. Much happier


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*


Some one enlighten me here chart shows 2.5 GPM max. You look up the D5 pump and it says 317 GPH the math is off here somewhere.317 = around 5.2 GPM at 24V and 264 GPH at 12 V = 4.4 GPM Think I just answered my own question.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Some one enlighten me here chart shows 2.5 GPM max. You look up the D5 pump and it says 317 GPH the math is off here somewhere.317 = around 5.2 GPM at 24V and 264 GPH at 12 V = 4.4 GPM Think I just answered my own question.


Pump specs do not equal actual. The rated flow of pumps is usually measured in a lab under ideal conditions. The pump curves shown above are measured flow rates in actual conditions.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Pump specs do not equal actual. The rated flow of pumps is usually measured in a lab under ideal conditions. The pump curves shown above are measured flow rates in actual conditions.


Okay so when I adjust my flow meter use these specs then. +1 rep


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Pump specs do not equal actual. The rated flow of pumps is usually measured in a lab under ideal conditions. The pump curves shown above are measured flow rates in actual conditions.


Where you got the chart do they have the one for 24V. Might up the voltage on my pump if there's a difference in the flow. Some say yes some say no.Then in the same token if I up the flow is it going to blow my (XSPC) compression fittings.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Where you got the chart do they have the one for 24V. Might up the voltage on my pump if there's a difference in the flow. Some say yes some say no.Then in the same token if I up the flow is it going to blow my (XSPC) compression fittings.


Actually, this is something I was very curious about. But Martin did substantial testing with the koolance d5 strong at 24v, results were pretty poor. It really didn't perform much better than at 12v. He goes into detail about how the d5 strong at 12v is almost identical to all other d5 pumps.

I'd provide the link but I'm on my phone. Also i didn't find that chart, Check earlier posts to give that guy rep.


----------



## BabylonDown

So... What is that chart saying...


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Actually, this is something I was very curious about. But Martin did substantial testing with the koolance d5 strong at 24v, results were pretty poor. It really didn't perform much better than at 12v. He goes into detail about how the d5 strong at 12v is almost identical to all other d5 pumps.
> 
> I'd provide the link but I'm on my phone. Also i didn't find that chart, Check earlier posts to give that guy rep.


I am very familiar with martins site. I will have a look that is where I got the initial information from.Also left rep for the other person. Thanks


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BabylonDown*
> 
> So... What is that chart saying...


The D5 chart above is flow rate and pressure for the D5 pump at the different settings on the back of the D5 if you have a adjustable pump.

Flow rate is the flow threw the tubing. The push
Pressure relates to how far the water will travel. Like 10ft of tubing or 16ft of tubing. How far the push will push.

In the example above 2.5 GPMinute = 160GPHour So for my flow sensor I would set it up at 160GPH as a base. If I lose the flow means there's a leak or a blockage.

If you need full explanations and your into water cooling try this site. Martin has been around forever. Done more test then NASA on water cooling.















http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/03/05/koolance-pmp-450s-d5-strong-pump/


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BabylonDown*
> 
> So... What is that chart saying...


The chart is various pump curves for the speed settings of the D5. It also has some system curves for different restriction loops. I'm not sure what exactly each means but I assume the "low restriction" means cpu plus one radiator.

According to Martins testing the target is 1 gpm of flow through the blocks. Any less temps start to drop, any more they aren't increased much. This is all minor however.

I'd say if you know you have a highly restrictive loop, you need to run high speeds to meet that 1 gpm. In my own personal testing I found a delta of 3 degrees on the gpu alone from running my pump at speed 1 over speed 5.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> The chart is various pump curves for the speed settings of the D5. It also has some system curves for different restriction loops. I'm not sure what exactly each means but I assume the "low restriction" means cpu plus one radiator.
> 
> According to Martins testing the target is 1 gpm of flow through the blocks. Any less temps start to drop, any more they aren't increased much. This is all minor however.
> 
> I'd say if you know you have a highly restrictive loop, you need to run high speeds to meet that 1 gpm. In my own personal testing I found a delta of 3 degrees on the gpu alone from running my pump at speed 1 over speed 5.


I have one CPU block and tomorrow or Friday will be back up to 2xGPU blocks with under 10ft of tubing and 3x90 angles. Also right now also being replaced is my flow sensor.Its clicking and I noticed I am up about 1 degree on 35C. So sitting at around 36C. I am going to mess with it tomorrow but I think i can get away running at 4. I can hear the pump right now I guess vibrating in the case.Slow it down a little and see what happens. Usually my max temps CPU 55C max and video cards 35C. 35C when I have 2 blocks with high end GPUS never changes.So I just hope it doesn't now.


----------



## holyking

I use 2 d5 with 2 radiators getting around 2 gpm. So d5 1 should be atleast 1.15 to 1.25..


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holyking*
> 
> I use 2 d5 with 2 radiators getting around 2 gpm. So d5 1 should be atleast 1.15 to 1.25..


Too many other variables to consider, but at least we have an idea of flow rates...


----------



## holyking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Too many other variables to consider, but at least we have an idea of flow rates...


Maje sure you bleed most air out in radiator.. you would lose alot of flow rate


----------



## tjohn

Just received my parts and I'd like to join









EX280 with red LED's and D5 pump. UV red tubing


----------



## Sterling7

Just installed my raystorm earlier this week. Would love to join as well.

Sorry if it's poor quality... Can't find my memory card for my camera.


----------



## Ithanul

Well, forgot about posting in here.

Finally upgrading the computer and water loop. So, took the old Rasa block and loop out. Got a Raystorm now since my Rasa kit served me so well.





I need to get to delidding my 4770K, and mounting this block on.


----------



## soulstaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Well, forgot about posting in here.
> 
> Finally upgrading the computer and water loop. So, took the old Rasa block and loop out. Got a Raystorm now since my Rasa kit served me so well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to get to delidding my 4770K, and mounting this block on.


How did you paint it?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulstaker*
> 
> How did you paint it?


Took my time putting masking tape on the parts I did not want the spray paint on. Used a adhesion promoter then a copper spray paint base. Final coat was a metalcast spray paint of red. Was pain to mask off, but dang the outcome came out great.


----------



## tjohn

I have a question about the D5 pump. I unscrewed the motor just to make sure the o ring was seated properly from the factory. Now how tight should this large screw on be? I can get to a point where it's starting to turn the actual motor along with it. Just doesn't seem like it's compressing the o ring.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjohn*
> 
> I have a question about the D5 pump. I unscrewed the motor just to make sure the o ring was seated properly from the factory. Now how tight should this large screw on be? I can get to a point where it's starting to turn the actual motor along with it. Just doesn't seem like it's compressing the o ring.


Make sure your not crushing the oring. The pump should be flush with the mating surface.


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

ummm, got a problem.

Just recently i think the pump has lost it's "pump" or flow rate.
It's the Bayres V4

The cpu block seems to have intermittent peaks of high temp, then it drops back quickly.
I am monitoring the cpu temp every second, and CPU usage is 9% - 12% consistently using dekstop apps.

Im going to disassemble the loop from the motherboard and flip it around and give it a shake etc then hook it up to an external power supply and check the flow rate again.

It was working good when i first got it, but now it's doing ****.


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Make sure your not crushing the oring. The pump should be flush with the mating surface.


So i should just give it one good tighten and be done? Just wish it was easier to tell that it is correct.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjohn*
> 
> So i should just give it one good tighten and be done? Just wish it was easier to tell that it is correct.


Pretty much I just tightened mine till the ring stopped spinning and was flush.


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Pretty much I just tightened mine till the ring stopped spinning and was flush.


Okay thanks, I have to double check mine cause it's not exactly flush when tight. I'll check to make sure the motor is seated right.


----------



## soulstaker

Going to get my kit today, but no sign of the ap15s arriving yet.

Still haven't decided if I should do push on top of the 690 (rad inside the case, fans on top of the bezel) or push pull, but with the radiator on the bottom.

How much better would the EX 240 work with fans on both sides?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulstaker*
> 
> Going to get my kit today, but no sign of the ap15s arriving yet.
> 
> Still haven't decided if I should do push on top of the 690 (rad inside the case, fans on top of the bezel) or push pull, but with the radiator on the bottom.
> 
> How much better would the EX 240 work with fans on both sides?


Martin'sLiquidLabs testing has shown that push - pull always nets a substantial boost in cooling performance over fans in just push or just pull. Thicker &/or higher fin count (more restrictive) rads will get the most benefit, in the 30% range, but even thinner rads like the EX240 will still see gains of about 20%. Performance-wise, as long as you have room for it / can afford it you should always consider using the thickest rad you have room for in a push-pull configuration.


----------



## CroakV

Just don't feel you MUST push/pull.

Me, I prefer a quiet push or pull only low RPM setup and live with the higher temps, others don't mind running push/pull 2000+ RPM screamer fans at max RPM 24/7 because temps are everything to them. Neither way is wrong, but neither way is absolutely right for everyone either.

It's all a balance between your noise tolerance, mounting options, cost, what your use case is, and what delta you're after.

Me, I find the pump noise of a decoupled D5 too high past setting 2 (most folks can't even hear it), so I have a low noise tolerance, and I find push/pull to ALWAYS make more noise than one-way at the same RPM, and I'm not so desperate for a few degrees more cooling that I'd need to choose between high RPM single fan or lower RPM dual fan...it's always the single slow fan for me.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

?
I get much better temps with push-pull fans at lower rpms and much lower noise than I can with just push. Push-pull made my rig much quieter and cooler.


----------



## CroakV

I'm saying that push only or pull only, is quieter than push/pull at the _same RPM_. Don't care about the temps, know they're a bit lower with twice the fans.

Keep in mind I'm not hung up on deltas, I'm hung up on noise, 20C, hell, even 30C deltas are fine with me.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I just found that surprising, as the whole reason I ever tried push-pull in the first place was so I could run quieter at lower rpms without sacrificing temps. I was pleasantly surprised to find I got MUCH better temps even with push-pull SP120s dialed down to basically silent (less than 1000 rpms) than I ever got with just push SP120s at much higher speeds which make terrible noise. Adding extra SP120s as pull fans was the best thing to ever happen to my ears and my temps. Second best thing was ditching the SP120s for AP-14s.


----------



## soulstaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Martin'sLiquidLabs testing has shown that push - pull always nets a substantial boost in cooling performance over fans in just push or just pull. Thicker &/or higher fin count (more restrictive) rads will get the most benefit, in the 30% range, but even thinner rads like the EX240 will still see gains of about 20%. Performance-wise, as long as you have room for it / can afford it you should always consider using the thickest rad you have room for in a push-pull configuration.


Thanks. I was searching for that article but wasnt finding it anywhere.

Just tested the AP-15 that came with the frozencpu order (bought 6 more from specialtech): judging by the noise level i'm used to with my 212+ and cheap fans, i think i can live with them @ max no problem haha









I think I'm officially part of the club now:


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I just found that surprising, as the whole reason I ever tried push-pull in the first place was so I could run quieter at lower rpms without sacrificing temps. I was pleasantly surprised to find I got MUCH better temps even with push-pull SP120s dialed down to basically silent (less than 1000 rpms) than I ever got with just push SP120s at much higher speeds which make terrible noise. Adding extra SP120s as pull fans was the best thing to ever happen to my ears and my temps. Second best thing was ditching the SP120s for AP-14s.


Once again, I'm a picky bastard when it comes to noise. A mouse farting next door is loud.


----------



## RX7-2nr

Before I installed my 360 rad I was just using the 240. I tested the 240 push vs push pull. I didn't see more than about a 1c difference going from push to push/pull with ap15s at full speed.


----------



## hoevito

I'm still technically a noob...but I've officially arrived!


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> Before I installed my 360 rad I was just using the 240. I tested the 240 push vs push pull. I didn't see more than about a 1c difference going from push to push/pull with ap15s at full speed.


Push/pull is extra expense worth if you are a silence nut but doesn't really help with full speed operation


----------



## Detoyminador

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjohn*
> 
> I have a question about the D5 pump. I unscrewed the motor just to make sure the o ring was seated properly from the factory. Now how tight should this large screw on be? I can get to a point where it's starting to turn the actual motor along with it. Just doesn't seem like it's compressing the o ring.


I also have a similar issue to this. I'm a new XSPC runner and I'm very happy with it.
When I checked on the Pump it was a little loose so when tightening it a bit the motor/pump rotated a 1/4 so the speed dial is now running at 9 o'clock, would this effect pump performance??? everything seems to be running fine. I have the pump speed set to 5.


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Detoyminador*
> 
> I also have a similar issue to this. I'm a new XSPC runner and I'm very happy with it.
> When I checked on the Pump it was a little loose so when tightening it a bit the motor/pump rotated a 1/4 so the speed dial is now running at 9 o'clock, would this effect pump performance??? everything seems to be running fine. I have the pump speed set to 5.


I wouldn't think the position of the pump matters as to operation. I was just worried that in tightening it down, am going to tight or not. So you gave yours enough force for the motor to rotate a bit and you have no problems / leaks?


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Detoyminador*
> 
> I also have a similar issue to this. I'm a new XSPC runner and I'm very happy with it.
> When I checked on the Pump it was a little loose so when tightening it a bit the motor/pump rotated a 1/4 so the speed dial is now running at 9 o'clock, would this effect pump performance??? everything seems to be running fine. I have the pump speed set to 5.


Oh and was checking out your rig, very nice. Same case as me. I was curious, what is you loop order? Also I'll be installing a dual rad and might go with the in / out near the rear as you did. Did you have to position it that way for space reasons?


----------



## Kokin

I'm selling my Raystorm block (Intel mounts) if anyone is interested. Please see my sale thread or PM me!

The block has been sanded inside and out, so it is in like-new condition.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Detoyminador*
> 
> I also have a similar issue to this. I'm a new XSPC runner and I'm very happy with it.
> When I checked on the Pump it was a little loose so when tightening it a bit the motor/pump rotated a 1/4 so the speed dial is now running at 9 o'clock, would this effect pump performance??? everything seems to be running fine. I have the pump speed set to 5.


You can turn the pump upside down and it would still work.No loss no gain as long as it does not leak and is bled properly.


----------



## soulstaker

OK, this isn't the United States and I can't find distilled water anywhere easy.

Some places sell distilled water intended to use with this thing
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoclave

Description says distilled and deionized.

Should be the same thing, right?


----------



## Detoyminador

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjohn*
> 
> Oh and was checking out your rig, very nice. Same case as me. I was curious, what is you loop order? Also I'll be installing a dual rad and might go with the in / out near the rear as you did. Did you have to position it that way for space reasons?


No leaks no problems at all.
With loop order I went, rad out>res in>res out>cpu in>cpu out>rad in. I went this way as the reservoir is not large and didn't want hot water straight from the CPU in there.
As with the radiator position I preferred this way as with more tubing it will hold a touch more water. It would look a lot more tidy with the radiator the other way, not sure it if would be an issue with hose kinking, with the dual rad I don't think it would be an issue, but when I was browsing on the line most had the Radiator as I do.


----------



## Detoyminador

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> You can turn the pump upside down and it would still work.No loss no gain as long as it does not leak and is bled properly.


Thanks mate


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Detoyminador*
> 
> No leaks no problems at all.
> With loop order I went, rad out>res in>res out>cpu in>cpu out>rad in. I went this way as the reservoir is not large and didn't want hot water straight from the CPU in there.
> As with the radiator position I preferred this way as with more tubing it will hold a touch more water. It would look a lot more tidy with the radiator the other way, not sure it if would be an issue with hose kinking, with the dual rad I don't think it would be an issue, but when I was browsing on the line most had the Radiator as I do.


Okay thanks


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulstaker*
> 
> OK, this isn't the United States and I can't find distilled water anywhere easy.
> 
> Some places sell distilled water intended to use with this thing
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoclave
> 
> Description says distilled and deionized.
> 
> Should be the same thing, right?


Just about any garage or auto parts store should have distilled water, it's also used it to fill automotive batteries. I wouldn't waste a real (or even a centavo!) on deionized though, it's only deionized before it hits the loop. Distilled is the important bit.


----------



## soulstaker

Leak testing. Getting that finished, will properly screw it in place.

Was easier than I thought. Didn't like that the bracket doesn't stay in place if you don't screw the block in and dude, I was pretty sure I would get the mobo pins bent when I was fitting the tubing. Visual check says it's OK, but can't be sure yet.


----------



## tjohn

Well hopefully I can start preparing and installing my new kit. Had to deal with a funeral and family problems this week. Anyway regarding the thermal compound, do you guys have a preference with this kit? I have plenty of arctic silver 5 on hand or should I use the supplied stuff? Also should I apply in the same way as an air cooler? The manual says apply a thin coat.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjohn*
> 
> Well hopefully I can start preparing and installing my new kit. Had to deal with a funeral and family problems this week. Anyway regarding the thermal compound, do you guys have a preference with this kit? I have plenty of arctic silver 5 on hand or should I use the supplied stuff? Also should I apply in the same way as an air cooler? The manual says apply a thin coat.


Well, you probably going to get a few varied answers for that question. Once I get my 4770K cleaned up after its delid. I going to do what I did with my Rasa kit. Smooth a thin layer of TIM using my finger with a disposable glove on. Worked very well last time as when I took my Rasa kit out the CPU & water block had prefect squares on them. That was using the Arctic Silver 5 TIM. This time I going to try the Gelid Extreme TIM out.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjohn*
> 
> Well hopefully I can start preparing and installing my new kit. Had to deal with a funeral and family problems this week. Anyway regarding the thermal compound, do you guys have a preference with this kit? I have plenty of arctic silver 5 on hand or should I use the supplied stuff? Also should I apply in the same way as an air cooler? The manual says apply a thin coat.


Sorry about your loss. I always use AS5 on CPUs. I have also tried IC diamond (on GPUs this stuff works). They say IC diamond will delid your CPU. I have never seen it but its possible I guess. MX4 is supposedly the best middle ground.


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Well, you probably going to get a few varied answers for that question. Once I get my 4770K cleaned up after its delid. I going to do what I did with my Rasa kit. Smooth a thin layer of TIM using my finger with a disposable glove on. Worked very well last time as when I took my Rasa kit out the CPU & water block had prefect squares on them. That was using the Arctic Silver 5 TIM. This time I going to try the Gelid Extreme TIM out.


Thanks I've never tried the finger technique. Will look into that and most likely use the AS5


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Sorry about your loss. I always use AS5 on CPUs. I have also tried IC diamond (on GPUs this stuff works). They say IC diamond will delid your CPU. I have never seen it but its possible I guess. MX4 is supposedly the best middle ground.


Thanks was my wife's father. Yes I'll be using AS5 thanks for the info.


----------



## CroakV

The XSPC TIM is pretty good stuff, and I'd use it over AS5 just because it's non-conductive and not as messy.

As for application, on a chip with a heat spreader and with the solid clamping power of a Raystorm block, I'm a big fan of the pea method. It's quicker, cleaner, and works better IMHO (less chance of air pockets, and more even thickness usually).


----------



## soulstaker

Assuming proper instalation of the block, what temps should I be getting?

Have left my PC at home running prime @ stock, but was seeing ~58c on average with core 3 @ 65c.

And how do I know if I screwed the block correctly? It got pretty tight just (doesn't move at all) with the bolts, didn't want to risk to turn the nuts and crack the plate.


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulstaker*
> 
> Assuming proper instalation of the block, what temps should I be getting?
> 
> Have left my PC at home running prime @ stock, but was seeing ~58c on average with core 3 @ 65c.
> 
> And how do I know if I screwed the block correctly? It got pretty tight just (doesn't move at all) with the bolts, didn't want to risk to turn the nuts and crack the plate.


Seems high for stock clocks, but Ivy has those TIM problems so who knows. What were your temps before?


----------



## pc-illiterate

priming at stock being 58-65*C, sounds about right from what ive read.


----------



## soulstaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> Seems high for stock clocks, but Ivy has those TIM problems so who knows. What were your temps before?


Not that much better, ~65 average with core 3 spiking to 70.

I think I'll try to mount the block again just to be sure.


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

I cleaned my kit out yesterday.

First it was emptied into a bucket. Big clumps of black stuff (rubber or something like that) was stuck in the cpu block.

Went outside and blasted block and radiator with hose.

Then assembled the kit outside of the case to check the flow with distilled water and it was raging.

The X20 unit still has that light buzz though.


----------



## tjohn

Can I just use the two stock fans at the top of my hafx for my ex280? That would be pulling up from below through the rad.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjohn*
> 
> Can I just use the two stock fans at the top of my hafx for my ex280? That would be pulling up from below through the rad.


I never had problems using the two 200mm fans on top to pull air through, but I had ap-15s then corsair sp120 as push also.


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I never had problems using the two 200mm fans on top to pull air through, but I had ap-15s then corsair sp120 as push also.


So were you ever just using the stock fans alone?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjohn*
> 
> So were you ever just using the stock fans alone?


No, not really sure if they got the power to actually pull enough air through a radiator. Probably depends on the radiator. If it a radiator that is thick or has a high fin count, I don't think those fans would be able to pull a good amount of air by themselves. You probably better off trying to find some cheap fans to do push on that radiator until you can get better ones.


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> No, not really sure if they got the power to actually pull enough air through a radiator. Probably depends on the radiator. If it a radiator that is thick or has a high fin count, I don't think those fans would be able to pull a good amount of air by themselves. You probably better off trying to find some cheap fans to do push on that radiator until you can get better ones.


Thanks that's what i thought


----------



## tjohn

Anyone else have a problem with the very sharp threads on compression fittings making shavings from the block and or pump threads which are not metal like the rad?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjohn*
> 
> Anyone else have a problem with the very sharp threads on compression fittings making shavings from the block and or pump threads which are not metal like the rad?


Yep. When I got my kit, after a few hours I took it back apart. Looked in the cpu block and there was a large curl from where it cut the block. Not a big deal, just cleaned it and reinstalled. Not had anything like that happen since, although it's coming time for me to clean it again.


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Yep. When I got my kit, after a few hours I took it back apart. Looked in the cpu block and there was a large curl from where it cut the block. Not a big deal, just cleaned it and reinstalled. Not had anything like that happen since, although it's coming time for me to clean it again.


Glad I'm not the only one! Those threads a just too sharp!


----------



## KnownDragon

I had same problem but I start my loop maybe different. I assembled it outside the case with dead water ran it to test for leaks prior to putting it on a $1,000.00 dollar equipment then I flushed it with dead water. I also had to flush the water block clear as well. I then installed and ran for six months before putting another rad in. Some of you guys might remember my problem of no drain. When I did get it drained my fluid was crisp and clear of any debris. I put same fluid with a top off and have been using the same fluid with no hiccups or dissipation of fluid.


----------



## RX7-2nr

The shavings are going to happen when you screw steel threads into a plastic top. Something's got to give, and it's not going to be the steel fittings. There really is no reason to remove the fittings from the top though. Don't worry about it, just make sure you don't cross thread it and you're good to go.


----------



## Ithanul

Raystorm block finally on the motherboard.


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulstaker*
> 
> Thanks. I was searching for that article but wasnt finding it anywhere.
> 
> Just tested the AP-15 that came with the frozencpu order (bought 6 more from specialtech): judging by the noise level i'm used to with my 212+ and cheap fans, i think i can live with them @ max no problem haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'm officially part of the club now:


Watch the top of that res, when i had it the acetal started to separate and warp near the gasket. it's a slow leak, but enough that if it drips on something it wont be good.

But on the brightside welcome to the club


----------



## Gurt11

Just came across this thread







some amazing builds in here!
Here's my XSPC Raystorm:





And the whole build:



(this one has an older gpu block and switched in-outs, but all natural light







)


----------



## tjohn

Anyone know if there is a Raystorm back plate that's compatible with an Asrock Fatality Z68 Pro Gen3 board? The one that came with my EX280 kit will not work.


----------



## simsim44

I used the factory mobo one on my UD-7 , with the kit I have.
and your concern on the threads being sharp, I wasn't digging it either, I have tools and cleaned the threads of the fittings seems to be a burr during the notch out for the quarter grove ( the method of getting them tight.).

Edit;
this is from the Hells Gate build, just loaded setting up bios and formatting the drives. so I have no pix to share. I will up load from one of my other rigs or laptop.


----------



## tjohn

Working with FrozenCPU, they were able to find me a replacement CoolJag 1156 back plate that should fit. I'm just hoping the threads match the XSPC screws. I will let people know how it goes.


----------



## tjohn

Is this a terrible way to install a rad?


----------



## RX7-2nr

It'll work if you have no other option. Your airflow is going to be cut quite a bit because of all the obstruction in front, so you may not get as good temperatures as you possibly could. Top mount would be better.


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> It'll work if you have no other option. Your airflow is going to be cut quite a bit because of all the obstruction in front, so you may not get as good temperatures as you possibly could. Top mount would be better.


Thanks, i was stupid enough to not check if my rad would fit my case so top mount is not working for me. The holes don't match.


----------



## pkrexer

Here is my Raystorm build:

Anyone else have issues installing the pump into the drive bay? Mine had to be practically forced in, the tightening ring around the pump extends out further then the reservoir which caused some binding and hassle to get it aligned up with my front panel correctly. I guess it would be less of a problem if you had more then 2 drive bays like I do.


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pkrexer*
> 
> Here is my Raystorm build:
> 
> Anyone else have issues installing the pump into the drive bay? Mine had to be practically forced in, the tightening ring around the pump extends out further then the reservoir which caused some binding and hassle to get it aligned up with my front panel correctly. I guess it would be less of a problem if you had more then 2 drive bays like I do.


WOW!


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pkrexer*
> 
> Here is my Raystorm build:
> 
> Anyone else have issues installing the pump into the drive bay? Mine had to be practically forced in, the tightening ring around the pump extends out further then the reservoir which caused some binding and hassle to get it aligned up with my front panel correctly. I guess it would be less of a problem if you had more then 2 drive bays like I do.


They make a slim ring I think it's less then 20 bucks. I ordered one to get the clearance on the side panel. Really nice build.


----------



## DaveLT

I am leaving this club. No longer have my raystorm
@Razroid Feel free to join.


----------



## Razroid

Ohai, count me in









traded my supreme hf with dave's raystorm :3


----------



## tjohn

Just wondering what is a better block orientation for a simple cpu loop. Vertical or horizontal?


----------



## pc-illiterate

on the 2600k, horizontal


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> on the 2600k, horizontal


Thank you very much!


----------



## JMattes

I made my own thread about it, but I figured I would post it here.. as I figured maybe someone here could help.. Is this corrosion in the Raystorm CPU block?



Here is a link to the thread I made if you want to simply discuss it there..

http://www.overclock.net/t/1467592/raystorm-block-not-looking-hot-what-to-do

Thanks for any help guys.


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> I made my own thread about it, but I figured I would post it here.. as I figured maybe someone here could help.. Is this corrosion in the Raystorm CPU block?
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a link to the thread I made if you want to simply discuss it there..
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1467592/raystorm-block-not-looking-hot-what-to-do
> 
> Thanks for any help guys.


You got a reply in your thread. It's not corrosion, but still a problem that thankfully you can fix.


----------



## tjohn

I have xspc compression fittings, once tube is in place how far do i need to screw them down for a good fit? It seems like it gets really tight before they are all the way down.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjohn*
> 
> I have xspc compression fittings, once tube is in place how far do i need to screw them down for a good fit? It seems like it gets really tight before they are all the way down.


Good and hand tight is all you want. If a compression ring screws all the way down it's an indication the wall of the tubing is too thin for the fitting.


----------



## simsim44

That's a good question. I went to tight as opposed to all the way down, thought it would cut into the tube.


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Good and hand tight is all you want. If a compression ring screws all the way down it's an indication the wall of the tubing is too thin for the fitting.


Great, thanks for the tip


----------



## tjohn

Another question, I need 2 120mm fans for an xspc ex240 rad. The cooler master pro is out of stock so would this work as well > http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835129059

Edit... i wanted red LEDs


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjohn*
> 
> Another question, I need 2 120mm fans for an xspc ex240 rad. The cooler master pro is out of stock so would this work as well > http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835129059
> 
> Edit... i wanted red LEDs


I've never heard of cooler master pro fans
Try jetflo 120.


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I've never heard of cooler master pro fans
> Try jetflo 120.


Yes sorry the jetflo is what i meant. Red is out of stock at newegg, i have to buy from there


----------



## pc-illiterate

wermad swears by cooler master sickleflow. both of these are the same fan. i personally dont like them. i think they stink.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=1YF-0006-000B6
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103091


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> wermad swears by cooler master sickleflow. both of these are the same fan. i personally dont like them. i think they stink.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=1YF-0006-000B6
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103091


Yeah those are the cheapest for sure, still looking for a different option


----------



## simsim44

you don't like these ?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181044

or these 2 for almost as the one you were looking at

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181054


----------



## soulstaker

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10269/fan-669/Yate_Loon_Clear_120mm_x_25mm_Red_LED_Fan_-_Medium_Speed_D12SM-12.html

Never tested myself, but some people swear on the Yates as a good rad fan.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Sickleflow suck. They have like no static pressure.


----------



## Jejune

Should I be expecting OCed temperatures of 90° C with a Raystorm CPU block using IntelBurnTest?

I looked at recent reports online (example) and it seems like 60-75° C is normal, and some of these people are not even water cooling.

I'm running a 4670K, overclocked from 3.4 to 4.4 GHz, 1.25 Vcore and 1.9 Vcc. Gelid GC-Extreme for TIM. Idle temperatures are around 40° C and Prime temperatures are around 65° C. And yes, I remembered to take off the plastic cover. The overclock does seem stable - temps don't get any higher than 90° C and I've run it through about 50 iterations on "high" stress at various times over the last few hours. But aside from being stable, it doesn't seem very impressive, and I'm afraid to try any higher than 44.

Are these temperatures normal? I have noticed that as soon as a test stops, the temperatures drop almost instantly back to 60° C and very quickly back to 40°, so the cooling must be doing _something_. I'm just not sure whether to blame my CPU or the block. I'm pretty sure the loop itself is performing because I'm getting reasonable results from the VGA block (an EK).

The block was a ***** to mount, too, so it's entirely possible that it's not making proper contact. It was a ridiculously tight fit, I had to push hard on the CPU and apply a ton of elbow grease just to get more than half a turn or so on the thumb screws, practically tearing up my thumbs in the process - yet I still (eventually) managed several turns, the screws do not look like they're all the way into the backplate, and the springs are not fully compressed. I wouldn't be surprised if it's making uneven contact but not really sure how to attempt any troubleshooting/resolutions beyond that. I could probably use a vice grip, but I'm worried I'll crack the die. Anyone else had this happen and/or know if it has a dramatic effect on temperature?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Cooler Master sickle Flows have sleeve bearings. Sleeve bearing fans won't last long when run horizontal, especially when pushing/pulling through a restriction like a rad.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Cooler Master sickle Flows have sleeve bearings. Sleeve bearing fans won't last long when run horizontal, especially when pushing/pulling through a restriction like a rad.


That's not true. It's because of the poor design not the bearing when going through basically anything. Even has no static pressure to pull through a filter

Hell hydro bearings are based on sleeve bearings and are you suggesting that the SP120 is poor as well?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> That's not true. It's because of the poor design not the bearing when going through basically anything. Even has no static pressure to pull through a filter
> 
> Hell hydro bearings are based on sleeve bearings and are you suggesting that the SP120 is poor as well?


Well, 2 of the 4 Sickleflows I put on an a rad in the roof, the bearings started clicking real bad in ~3-4 months time. When I took them off the rad they stopped clicking, so I ran them as case fans, for a couple more months before the clicking started coming back.

I've never had that issue with fans that didn't have sleeve bearings.

If you look at the google results I linked you'll find MANY MANY other people with the same issues I had.

Loudest rad fans I've ever run were SP120s. Have to dial them back under 1000rpm to stop the buzzsaw noise. Hate them.

AP-14s and AP-15s have been the best rad fans I've ever used. I like GeLids too, but just for how quiet they are. I don't get the performance out of them as I do the GTs. Then again, I want quiet, as much or more than performance, and in push-pull the GeLids get the job done.


----------



## Draven

I have 6 Sickleflow fans in my case and never had a problem











My rig is on 24/7 btw


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, 2 of the 4 Sickleflows I put on an a rad in the roof, the bearings started clicking real bad in ~3-4 months time. When I took them off the rad they stopped clicking, so I ran them as case fans, for a couple more months before the clicking started coming back.
> 
> I've never had that issue with fans that didn't have sleeve bearings.
> 
> If you look at the google results I linked you'll find MANY MANY other people with the same issues I had.
> 
> Loudest rad fans I've ever run were SP120s. Have to dial them back under 1000rpm to stop the buzzsaw noise. Hate them.
> 
> AP-14s and AP-15s have been the best rad fans I've ever used. I like GeLids too, but just for how quiet they are. I don't get the performance out of them as I do the GTs. Then again, I want quiet, as much or more than performance, and in push-pull the GeLids get the job done.


One thing you should know - It's clear to most people here I really hate sleeve bearings.
SP120s yeah they have this buzzsaw noise that is just special to them. some. of course. All hydro fans I have don't make such a noise. Oh btw, Noctua fans use some kind of hydro as well


----------



## Flawless91

Hey im planning on getting a XSPC Raystorm 750 EX240 from frozencpu but I cannot mount inside due to the MOBO being to close to the top of the case. How would I go about mounting the rad externally? Would I need anything other than what the kit provides? I am using a Thermaltake Commander MS-I Snow Edition mid tower case


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Usually you just throw everything on the otherside of the case.

Koolance makes some pretty nice rad grills. Makes it fit in quite cleanly.


----------



## pc-illiterate

6 yate loons running horizontal for over a year with only 1 starting a click noise. horizontal is bad for a sleeve bearing but they usually last 3 years running vertically.


----------



## Flawless91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Usually you just throw everything on the otherside of the case.
> 
> Koolance makes some pretty nice rad grills. Makes it fit in quite cleanly.


What do you mean? like on the back side of the motherboard?? I was thinking something like http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14356/ex-rad-320/Bitspower_120mm_Radiator_Mount_Holder_BP-120RADH-BK.html?tl=g30c637s1731 for the mount because I think the XSPC EX240 kit comes with 80mm to 120mm radiator brackets for external top mounting and that wont work with my case since its a dual 120mm. Anyone recommend these brackets as an alternative?


----------



## RX7-2nr

The brackets that come with the kit will work fine. You'll just have to rotate then to line up. They are not only for 120-80mm mounts. I used them to mount a rad to the back of my old case, then moved it to the top a while later and they worked fine in both positions


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> you don't like these ?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181044
> 
> or these 2 for almost as the one you were looking at
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181054


Yes I love those but can't find any reference that they are good for rads?


----------



## tjohn

And actually in the fan specs it says best used for unrestricted areas. The Air SP series has a high static pressure but they don't come with LED's


----------



## pc-illiterate

the corsair af series fans do not work on rads. the quiet sp120 fans arent even that good.


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> the corsair af series fans do not work on rads. the quiet sp120 fans arent even that good.


I found these http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553010 one review says using it with rad


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Cougars aren't bad.


----------



## tjohn

Yeah I'm finding the the 12cm or x blade series can be good for rads where the vortex series are not. I think I might pull the trigger on these.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjohn*
> 
> Yeah I'm finding the the 12cm or x blade series can be good for rads where the vortex series are not. I think I might pull the trigger on these.


I am pretty sure the Vortex are the good fans for rads.


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> I am pretty sure the Vortex are the good fans for rads.


Well hopefully these work fine cause I just bought 2


----------



## Flawless91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> The brackets that come with the kit will work fine. You'll just have to rotate then to line up. They are not only for 120-80mm mounts. I used them to mount a rad to the back of my old case, then moved it to the top a while later and they worked fine in both positions


Great I see a light at the end of the tunnel! I cant wait until Friday so I can order it. One more question if I were to mount it on top I would mount the fans on the opposite side of where I mounted the brackets correct?


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flawless91*
> 
> Great I see a light at the end of the tunnel! I cant wait until Friday so I can order it. One more question if I were to mount it on top I would mount the fans on the opposite side of where I mounted the brackets correct?


It really depends on how you want to set it up. This would depend on how your case's top fans are oriented. If the top fans are intake, you would need to make sure that the radiator fans are blowing toward the case as intake as well- either that or swap your case fans to be exhaust. Whatever you do, you want to make sure that the radiator fans are not fighting the case fans for air.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jejune*
> 
> Should I be expecting OCed temperatures of 90° C with a Raystorm CPU block using IntelBurnTest?
> 
> I looked at recent reports online (example) and it seems like 60-75° C is normal, and some of these people are not even water cooling.
> 
> I'm running a 4670K, overclocked from 3.4 to 4.4 GHz, 1.25 Vcore and 1.9 Vcc. Gelid GC-Extreme for TIM. Idle temperatures are around 40° C and Prime temperatures are around 65° C. And yes, I remembered to take off the plastic cover. The overclock does seem stable - temps don't get any higher than 90° C and I've run it through about 50 iterations on "high" stress at various times over the last few hours. But aside from being stable, it doesn't seem very impressive, and I'm afraid to try any higher than 44.
> 
> Are these temperatures normal? I have noticed that as soon as a test stops, the temperatures drop almost instantly back to 60° C and very quickly back to 40°, so the cooling must be doing _something_. I'm just not sure whether to blame my CPU or the block. I'm pretty sure the loop itself is performing because I'm getting reasonable results from the VGA block (an EK).
> 
> The block was a ***** to mount, too, so it's entirely possible that it's not making proper contact. It was a ridiculously tight fit, I had to push hard on the CPU and apply a ton of elbow grease just to get more than half a turn or so on the thumb screws, practically tearing up my thumbs in the process - yet I still (eventually) managed several turns, the screws do not look like they're all the way into the backplate, and the springs are not fully compressed. I wouldn't be surprised if it's making uneven contact but not really sure how to attempt any troubleshooting/resolutions beyond that. I could probably use a vice grip, but I'm worried I'll crack the die. Anyone else had this happen and/or know if it has a dramatic effect on temperature?


IDK something does not sound right like you said it maybe mounted uneven, do you have access to a thermal laser type meter, need to check the actual temp make sure your not getting a bogus reading, although the more I think about it you wouldn't see rapid temp drop, yea I would try and remount it , got Pix?

edit
do NOT use vise grip pliers, there IS something wrong. is the 240 the only rad in the system


----------



## soulstaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jejune*
> 
> Should I be expecting OCed temperatures of 90° C with a Raystorm CPU block using IntelBurnTest?
> 
> I looked at recent reports online (example) and it seems like 60-75° C is normal, and some of these people are not even water cooling.
> 
> I'm running a 4670K, overclocked from 3.4 to 4.4 GHz, 1.25 Vcore and 1.9 Vcc. Gelid GC-Extreme for TIM. Idle temperatures are around 40° C and Prime temperatures are around 65° C. And yes, I remembered to take off the plastic cover. The overclock does seem stable - temps don't get any higher than 90° C and I've run it through about 50 iterations on "high" stress at various times over the last few hours. But aside from being stable, it doesn't seem very impressive, and I'm afraid to try any higher than 44.
> 
> Are these temperatures normal? I have noticed that as soon as a test stops, the temperatures drop almost instantly back to 60° C and very quickly back to 40°, so the cooling must be doing _something_. I'm just not sure whether to blame my CPU or the block. I'm pretty sure the loop itself is performing because I'm getting reasonable results from the VGA block (an EK).
> 
> The block was a ***** to mount, too, so it's entirely possible that it's not making proper contact. It was a ridiculously tight fit, I had to push hard on the CPU and apply a ton of elbow grease just to get more than half a turn or so on the thumb screws, practically tearing up my thumbs in the process - yet I still (eventually) managed several turns, the screws do not look like they're all the way into the backplate, and the springs are not fully compressed. I wouldn't be surprised if it's making uneven contact but not really sure how to attempt any troubleshooting/resolutions beyond that. I could probably use a vice grip, but I'm worried I'll crack the die. Anyone else had this happen and/or know if it has a dramatic effect on temperature?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1459644/1st-water-cooling-attempt-just-cpu-with-xspc-ex280-but-parts-stuck-in-my-cart/30#post_21795624

@tjohn posted this in another thread, I'm going to try one to see if it solves my problem with mounting the block. My temps are nowhere as bad as yours tho.


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulstaker*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1459644/1st-water-cooling-attempt-just-cpu-with-xspc-ex280-but-parts-stuck-in-my-cart/30#post_21795624
> 
> @tjohn posted this in another thread, I'm going to try one to see if it solves my problem with mounting the block. My temps are nowhere as bad as yours tho.


Is you're back plate flush to the board? If so what good would a different one do? Other than supplying different threads for the screws. That part accepted my screws perfectly.


----------



## tjohn

I have another question, i have the block installed. I tightened the screws down all the way and it feels good and solid without even using the bottom adjusting nuts. Is there any need to use them at all?


----------



## soulstaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjohn*
> 
> Is you're back plate flush to the board? If so what good would a different one do? Other than supplying different threads for the screws. That part accepted my screws perfectly.


Mostly flush but it could mount better. I can mount it but it is a pain to mount the first 2 screws diagonally. The screws/plate on my mobo are exactly the same as yours.

It's cheaper to try that before buying another block, lol.


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulstaker*
> 
> Mostly flush but it could mount better. I can mount it but it is a pain to mount the first 2 screws diagonally. The screws/plate on my mobo are exactly the same as yours.
> 
> It's cheaper to try that before buying another block, lol.


If they're the same as mine then your back plate is overlapping the piece of metal behind the cpu?


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjohn*
> 
> I have another question, i have the block installed. I tightened the screws down all the way and it feels good and solid without even using the bottom adjusting nuts. Is there any need to use them at all?


I believe that the secondary screw bosses are to even out the tension on the block, if all the primary screws are tight and the block to cpu feels good and tight I don't see why you would "need" to thread the secondary's down much or at all for that matter. I gave mine a turn just to feel the tension and I noticed the block holder starting to bend a little thought that was my queue to stop there


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> I believe that the secondary screw bosses are to even out the tension on the block, if all the primary screws are tight and the block to cpu feels good and tight I don't see why you would "need" to thread the secondary's down much or at all for that matter. I gave mine a turn just to feel the tension and I noticed the block holder starting to bend a little thought that was my queue to stop there


Right thanks


----------



## Jejune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> IDK something does not sound right like you said it maybe mounted uneven, do you have access to a thermal laser type meter, need to check the actual temp make sure your not getting a bogus reading, although the more I think about it you wouldn't see rapid temp drop, yea I would try and remount it , got Pix?


I don't have a thermal pen but I'm sure I could grab one. Question is, what would I measure? The CPU is covered by the block, so... measure the outside of the block?

I posted some pictures in this thread] - not sure how easy it is to see the block, and FWIW I cut the tubes and cleaned up the loop a bit. But really it looks like any other Raystorm mount, not sure what else there would be to see with a close-up.
Quote:


> there IS something wrong. is the 240 the only rad in the system


It's an EX 360, and I don't need to guess at radiator efficiency because I've got a water temperature sensor in the loop. The coolant never goes higher than about 30° C, give or take a few degrees. I also have a single GTX 780 DCII in the loop, and I can run FurMark at max settings and never see the GPU go above 42° C (this is compared to almost 90° C with the stock cooler). I don't even need to run the rad fans at full speed to maintain this, most of the time they're at 40-50%. So I'm pretty sure that the loop itself is up to snuff; it's just the Raystorm CPU block that's not pulling enough heat from the CPU.

Maybe this is just normal for an OC'ed Haswell? I guess 4.4 GHz isn't a trivial overclock on a 3.4 GHz chip, and I've heard mostly negative things from people trying to overclock IB or Haswell. I'm not prepared to delid or do anything to void the warranty, and I've actually had to increase the Vcore to 1.28 for stability (1.25 passed all the burn-in tests but occasionally blue screened under light load). Maybe I just got one of the poorer-performing CPUs?

I want to believe it's something as simple as the mounting, but it was so damn hard to mount in the first place and I really don't feel like taking everything apart to remount it on a wild guess. Also, I've read a few similar reports in other threads, and so far, it seems that for everybody who's had this issue, remounting 2 or 3 times didn't really help much. I actually did end up using a needle-nose pliers to tighten the thumbscrews (both top and bottom parts) until they really wouldn't tighten anymore, and this had no effect whatsoever on temperatures.

There is one thing which may be worth pointing out, which is that Core #4 is almost 10° C lower at heavy load, and 3-4° C lower at idle. I'm not sure how the cores are actually laid out on the CPU, but if it's split into quadrants then perhaps one quadrant is getting a lot more pressure than the others. Should I maybe experiment with loosening different screws while running a burn-in test and seeing if the temperatures even out? Has anyone tried this?


----------



## simsim44

I don't know about running test and loosening the block sounds like a recipe for disaster


----------



## Jejune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> I don't know about running test and loosening the block sounds like a recipe for disaster


Why?


----------



## simsim44

if the block pops off and your running without a heatsink, ahh, you burn it up,

as far as the core question I have little experience with intel


----------



## Jejune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> if the block pops off and your running without a heatsink, ahh, you burn it up,


I'm only talking about loosening the bottom adjusting screws, and only maybe a half-turn to a turn; if that has no effect then I doubt that any further adjustments will make a difference. Do you think that carries a major risk of accidentally popping off the entire block?

I found a die map for the Haswell, apparently the cores are all stuffed in the "north" half, slightly off-center. So it would make sense for there to be a difference between cores if there was a lot more pressure on either the left or the right side. My only hesitation is that I would expect to see a gradient if this were the case, and it's not (in fact, Core 4 is the lowest and Core 1 is the next lowest, about 3-4° C lower at heavy load... cores 2 and 3 are the highest and almost exactly the same).

So bizarre... is it possible that my IHS is slightly concave and the middle is not getting as much contact as the sides?


----------



## simsim44

I had a tuff time getting my hands in there to get it assembled, I just wouldn't want you to accidently unscrew one too far and go into a panic to get it on only to find out it would of been better to just turn it off, ..... you know I am working with a AMD not an Intel, I seem to remember that there were two options for the bolts( just thinking out loud).


----------



## soulstaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjohn*
> 
> If they're the same as mine then your back plate is overlapping the piece of metal behind the cpu?


Yes, but I managed to mount it.



Did frozencpu sent you that backplate for free? I could use some discounts besides the ocn code









=========

On another topic, need some advice. How far can i go with the screws into the EX240 and not puncture it?

Considering getting 1 1/2 screws (38.1mm) to use with 2x3mm gaskets, but terribly afraid of ruining my rad with longer screws...


----------



## simsim44

the coils or tube are not positioned un the screw area in the newer rads the older ones on the other hand are directly under, I used the 1 1/2" 6/32's with fans and they were fine.


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulstaker*
> 
> Yes, but I managed to mount it.
> 
> 
> 
> Did frozencpu sent you that backplate for free? I could use some discounts besides the ocn code
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> =========
> 
> On another topic, need some advice. How far can i go with the screws into the EX240 and not puncture it?
> 
> Considering getting 1 1/2 screws (38.1mm) to use with 2x3mm gaskets, but terribly afraid of ruining my rad with longer screws...


I would say that that is you whole problem. That back plate should not be overlapping that metal. You not getting a secure fit. Yes FrozenCPU did send it to me for free but only because I had just purchased the EX280 kit and was working with them on a fix.


----------



## pc-illiterate

that backplate is mounted exactly like mine. its fine and the way it mounts.
yes the raystorm is convex. when you tighten the mount down, it flattens the cpu block. most ihs are concave. looking at your tim spread will tell you lots n lots of stuff about your ihs and your mount.
cores 1 and 4 will be cooler because they are on the outsides of the die. the inner cores will run hot because they have a core on each side of them.


----------



## tjohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> that backplate is mounted exactly like mine. its fine and the way it mounts.
> yes the raystorm is convex. when you tighten the mount down, it flattens the cpu block. most ihs are concave. looking at your tim spread will tell you lots n lots of stuff about your ihs and your mount.
> cores 1 and 4 will be cooler because they are on the outsides of the die. the inner cores will run hot because they have a core on each side of them.


Seriously! You mean I could have mounted mine with that plate and not waited for a different one? I thought no metal to metal contact.


----------



## pc-illiterate

thats why the raystorm plate has cut-outs for the cpu socket retention bracket. in fact, every backplate mount bracket has cut-outs or is 'bumped'/raised around the mobo bracket. well there is the exclusion of the 2011 mount but it uses the original mobo bracket. you only replace the screws.


----------



## tjohn

Yes but that cutout is smaller than the retention bracket. So the plate is sitting on top of it. The new plate I got does not hit it at all and mounts right to the pcb


----------



## tjohn

See here, this is my new one


----------



## tjohn

There are also 2 raised screws heads on top and 1 on the bottom of that retention bracket. That would mean the plate is bending awkwardly as it's being secured.


----------



## tjohn

No sorry the stock plate does not cover those screws. Only the metal bracket.


----------



## pkrexer

If you want to see real good temps, your cpu needs delidding.


----------



## outlaw8505

Just joined.


----------



## Pendaz

I finally made the move to water cooling, i must say i'm 100% happy with this kit, i bought the XSPC Raystorm with X2O 750 Bayres/Pump

Heres some pictures:





































and finally, the powerup


















Now all i need is two red Mini LED's for the block and one for the res, then my RED Devil will be 100% Red lol

as a beginner to watercooling this kit was a peice of piss to install, the instructions where easy to follow and the kit included everything i needed bar the coolant and a tool to cut the hose

i would recommend this to newcomers to watercooling or anyone who's maybe intimidated to make the crossover to the wet side


----------



## simsim44

Looking good, is the mother board tray painted or covered in vinyl, either way it looks good.


----------



## Pendaz

Thanks mate, no the tray is stock, thats how it came

link

I'm trying to run with a red theme, although the blue/red is kinda growing on me hehe


----------



## simsim44

Awesome.


----------



## xxpantherrrxx

May I join the club? Just got this fella last week for about 52 bucks from performance PCS to replace my Phobya UC 2LT because I wanted some bling!


----------



## shapechanger

Hey guys, new here and thought i would post in here. I bought a raystorm 750 ex240 kit from frozen cpu about 2-3 weeks ago. So far its pretty good. I bought it for a computer i am going to build but thought i would throw it on my current crappy computer for fun. Its a 2.8ghz AMD dual core. With the original stock cooler, running prime 95 it would hit 75*C nothing flat. With this kit, i can run two prime95s and rarely see above 45*C, so big improvement. But Ive been having a weird issue with the pump/reservoir. I will make a slight hum/buzz, so i got the first one replace (frozencpu was great with replacing it), and now the second one ran nearly silent for about an hour then starting making the same noise. I was careful when filling it. I filled the entire system up as much as i could without turning it on with the supplied jumper. I would jump it on for a few seconds for it to push some fluid through, and repeated till it was full. But it still makes the noise. Has anyone else dealt with multiple pumps making noise? If so, how did you remedy it? Sorry for the long post. Hopefully i get a long healthy life from the system, because it seems to work pretty well.









PS: I do have a video of the noise, if anyone wants me to post it so they can here it, i certainly can.


----------



## YawMawn

I just got my first ever watercooling loop going. It was pretty exciting to take my full load GTX 670 from 68C to 34C and take out the damn hairdryer noise to boot. Unfortunately, my Raystorm is not behaving nearly as well.

I upgraded from an H80i which was cooled with two Noctua 120mms. They're not great for radiators but they still did decently for me. I had my i5-3570k only occasionally hitting 80C at 4.6GHz and 1.26V. Average was mid 70's. I'm part of GIMPS and I run Prime95 24/7.

After "upgrading" to a Raystorm in a custom loop that has not yet allowed my GTX 670 to hit 35C, my CPU temperatures hit 90C in about a minute, where I stop the test. Also, even at idle, my CPU temperatures fluctuate from 30C to as high as 50C and back down again.

I reseated the block. No effect.

I switched my tubing to get the inlet and outlet correct (whoops...). No effect (sadly).

The reseating went really badly so I might try it again but I don't have a great feeling about it. While I'm at it, I'll check for that extra plastic film. I'll try a different thermal compound too. I'm using some GELID extreme stuff on the CPU currently, which is the same as on the GPU so I kind of want to rule out the TIM? I donno. Does anyone else have any ideas?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YawMawn*
> 
> Does anyone else have any ideas?


bad seat, air bubble, too much tim.
did you thoroughly clean everything your parts before building the loop?


----------



## xxpantherrrxx

Details of your loop would be nice, and you also have to remember that while both the cpu and gpu are under load your cpu will run hotter in comparison to when you had it under a H80i because of the added heat of the gpu...


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpantherrrxx*
> 
> Details of your loop would be nice, and you also have to remember that while both the cpu and gpu are under load your cpu will run hotter in comparison to when you had it under a H80i because of the added heat of the gpu...


no not really. i was using an h100 and am/was still 5* cooler on the cpu. it should never be hotter under water unless you have insufficient rad space.
we need to know ambient temp, full rig and loop specs. cpu temps are just plain too high. should never idle at 50* unless ambient is 40- 45* C or so.


----------



## YawMawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> bad seat, air bubble, too much tim.
> did you thoroughly clean everything your parts before building the loop?


Aight. Nothing I hadn't considered yet but thanks. I'll pay special attention to the TIM when I reseat. I don't think I put in that much, but I might try a bit less since I don't know what else to try.

I cleaned both surfaces thoroughly before installing for the first time and before reseating. I never took the waterblock apart, though, to clean the inside. Is that something I should have considered?

Is an air bubble INSIDE the CPU block possible? How do I deal with it?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpantherrrxx*
> 
> Details of your loop would be nice, and you also have to remember that while both the cpu and gpu are under load your cpu will run hotter in comparison to when you had it under a H80i because of the added heat of the gpu...


Dual 5.25 inch bay res + D5 Pump --> 360mm rad, push fans only --> i5-3570k, 4.6 GHz, 1.26V --> 120mm rad, push pull fans --> GTX 670 --> Res

I will disagree on that point. I don't think the GPU is putting in so much heat that it would affect the CPU in a significant way. With 480mm worth of radiators I would imagine it can more than dissipate the extra heat from the GPU. On top of that, the max temperature on the GPU after several hours of full load is still 34C so the coolant doesn't heat up considerably between the computer being turned off to equilibrium.

My H80i tubing was lukewarm to the touch after several hours of full CPU load, but the air coming out of my rad is still cool.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> no not really. i was using an h100 and am/was still 5* cooler on the cpu. it should never be hotter under water unless you have insufficient rad space.
> we need to know ambient temp, full rig and loop specs. cpu temps are just plain too high. should never idle at 50* unless ambient is 40- 45* C or so.


Ambient temp is around 23C.

Thanks so far, guys!


----------



## pc-illiterate

i didnt want to repeat tubing on wrong ports,ie in on out out on in, or the plastic still being on the bottom. also possible a piece of delrin is stuck un block but very very doubtful. really, it cant be a whole lot of things.


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YawMawn*
> 
> I just got my first ever watercooling loop going. It was pretty exciting to take my full load GTX 670 from 68C to 34C and take out the damn hairdryer noise to boot. Unfortunately, my Raystorm is not behaving nearly as well.
> 
> I upgraded from an H80i which was cooled with two Noctua 120mms. They're not great for radiators but they still did decently for me. I had my i5-3570k only occasionally hitting 80C at 4.6GHz and 1.26V. Average was mid 70's. I'm part of GIMPS and I run Prime95 24/7.
> 
> After "upgrading" to a Raystorm in a custom loop that has not yet allowed my GTX 670 to hit 35C, my CPU temperatures hit 90C in about a minute, where I stop the test. Also, even at idle, my CPU temperatures fluctuate from 30C to as high as 50C and back down again.
> 
> I reseated the block. No effect.
> 
> I switched my tubing to get the inlet and outlet correct (whoops...). No effect (sadly).
> 
> The reseating went really badly so I might try it again but I don't have a great feeling about it. While I'm at it, I'll check for that extra plastic film. I'll try a different thermal compound too. I'm using some GELID extreme stuff on the CPU currently, which is the same as on the GPU so I kind of want to rule out the TIM? I donno. Does anyone else have any ideas?


If you had the inlet and outlet reversed, then fixed it and saw no difference in temperature you've got a big problem. Try taking the waterblock apart and inspecting the channels. Something is big-time wrong with your loop.

Why do you say the reseating went badly?


----------



## YawMawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> If you had the inlet and outlet reversed, then fixed it and saw no difference in temperature you've got a big problem. Try taking the waterblock apart and inspecting the channels. Something is big-time wrong with your loop.
> 
> Why do you say the reseating went badly?


Okay. I've talked about this with a guy on another form who actually works on liquid cooling related things and he says CPU blocks work better when they're the first thing in the loop, so I'm going to do a bit of re-plumbing tonight. I write an exam in a few hours but after that I'll be able to plug away at this. While I'm re-plumbing I can take the waterblock apart, take a look inside and re-seat it properly.

I tried reseating the block with it still attached to the loop so I wouldn't need to drain and check for leaks again, so I couldn't really see what I was doing half the time, the tubing kept moving the block around until I screwed it down, etc, etc.

I haven't had the time to do very much yet because of this nasty exam I'm working toward but thank you all for your advice anyway. I've got it all written down, and I'll be back tonight with the results. The problem is I have so many things to try, I won't know what did the trick if I fix my problems.


----------



## pc-illiterate

it doesnt matter where in the loop the cpu block is. the worst i have ever had cpu temp wise was when i had the cpu raystorm immediately after my sli. my cpu temp went up 2*C which is still marginal as it could be just a real life variable.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> it doesnt matter where in the loop the cpu block is. the worst i have ever had cpu temp wise was when i had the cpu raystorm immediately after my sli. my cpu temp went up 2*C which is still marginal as it could be just a real life variable.


Agreed. At any given point in the loop, the temperature does not vary more than a few degrees. So aside from res to pump, the rest of the loop order does not matter.

Heck, mine hits my GPU before it hits the CPU.


----------



## YawMawn

Right. That's what made most intuitive sense to me. I'm taking everything apart now. I'll report back. Thanks again for the ideas!


----------



## YawMawn

Well shoot...

Add one to the list of idiots who didn't take off the plastic film...

1.3 Volts and stock settings gives 70C running Prime. Maybe a bit high yet but perhaps the paste needs a bit of time.


----------



## falinefarwell

Got my i7 2600K at 4.5GHz on 1.35V. Idle temps never go over 28°C-33°C. I ran Prime95 for about 12 hours with no problems never went over 55°C-60°C. Passed all test no errors.

I externally mounted my rad just for fun plus I personally think it looks cool XD Loving the results!


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falinefarwell*
> 
> Got my i7 2600K at 4.5GHz on 1.35V. Idle temps never go over 28°C-33°C. I ran Prime95 for about 12 hours with no problems never went over 55°C-60°C. Passed all test no errors.
> 
> I externally mounted my rad just for fun plus I personally think it looks cool XD Loving the results!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good! I'm digging the green!


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YawMawn*
> 
> Okay. I've talked about this with a guy on another form who actually works on liquid cooling related things and he says CPU blocks work better when they're the first thing in the loop, so I'm going to do a bit of re-plumbing tonight. I write an exam in a few hours but after that I'll be able to plug away at this. While I'm re-plumbing I can take the waterblock apart, take a look inside and re-seat it properly.
> 
> I tried reseating the block with it still attached to the loop so I wouldn't need to drain and check for leaks again, so I couldn't really see what I was doing half the time, the tubing kept moving the block around until I screwed it down, etc, etc.
> 
> I haven't had the time to do very much yet because of this nasty exam I'm working toward but thank you all for your advice anyway. I've got it all written down, and I'll be back tonight with the results. The problem is I have so many things to try, I won't know what did the trick if I fix my problems.


Does not matter where the GPUS are in a loop. The water temperature reaches an even temperature across the loop minus + 3C If you need the full explanation. Delta is the word I am looking for. If you want to learn about water cooling try this site Martin has been up the block down the block

More then you will ever want to know here
http://martinsliquidlab.org/


----------



## sperson1

Got a i7-4770K OC to 4.6 at 1.3 idle temps around 20-26c


----------



## Sir Beregond

Wow. I really like that. What case?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Beregond*
> 
> Wow. I really like that. What case?


900d would be my guess. it is a corsair though.


----------



## sperson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> 900d would be my guess. it is a corsair though.


You are correct it is a 900D


----------



## YawMawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Does not matter where the GPUS are in a loop. The water temperature reaches an even temperature across the loop minus + 3C If you need the full explanation. Delta is the word I am looking for. If you want to learn about water cooling try this site Martin has been up the block down the block


Well, I did reply twice since posting that but if you want my full explanation, the guy (who, I repeat, works on the design of liquid cooling components for a living) said that the performance of CPU blocks is strongly affected by the water pressure. It didn't make all that much sense to me either, but by the sound of what he was trying to go for, the fact that the water immediately leaving the pump has a bunch of unsteady pressure gradients in it causes the water to behave differently in the block than if the pressure had equalized across the flow, and that this was beneficial.

I decided to give him the benefit of the doubt since he did quote his job and some of the experiments they've run on their designs. There are probably more factors involved than I care to know. Maybe the fin spacing was too high so getting turbulent flow was difficult, but having the block right after the pump made the flow turbulent in the block anyway, etc.


----------



## kayan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sperson1*
> 
> Got a i7-4770K OC to 4.6 at 1.3 idle temps around 20-26c


Thanks for your pic, that gave me some ideas for tubing order, etc...

What fluid are you using, and tubing? I love the look of it! I'm just using plain distilled water and a biocide at the moment, but I'd like to go clear tubes and red fluid.


----------



## sperson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kayan*
> 
> Thanks for your pic, that gave me some ideas for tubing order, etc...
> 
> What fluid are you using, and tubing? I love the look of it! I'm just using plain distilled water and a biocide at the moment, but I'd like to go clear tubes and red fluid.


The fluid is EK EKoolant Blood Red and the tubing is XSPC FLX Premium Grade 1/2"


----------



## kayan

I liked the tubing my kit came with much better than the advanced LRT stuff I ordered separately. The XSPC tubes were less restrictive when it came to bending. Anyway, have you noticed any staining in the tubes?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kayan*
> 
> I liked the tubing my kit came with much better than the advanced LRT stuff I ordered separately. The XSPC tubes were less restrictive when it came to bending. Anyway, have you noticed any staining in the tubes?


Yeah but that XSPC tubing is infamous for pretty bad plasticizer issues. It's just not worth it to have to break down the loop, scrub the junk out of every block, and replace the tubing. That's the main reason to go with Primochill Advanced LRT instead.


----------



## sperson1

i have not notice any staining in the tubing


----------



## Sir Beregond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah but that XSPC tubing is infamous for pretty bad plasticizer issues. It's just not worth it to have to break down the loop, scrub the junk out of every block, and replace the tubing. That's the main reason to go with Primochill Advanced LRT instead.


I remember the Primochill had plasticizer problems for a while back a couple of years. Did they fix it?

Granted my Primochill is fine, but just wondering.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Beregond*
> 
> I remember the Primochill had plasticizer problems for a while back a couple of years. Did they fix it?
> 
> Granted my Primochill is fine, but just wondering.


The older Primochill *PRO* LRT is as terrible for plasticizer as XSPC tubing is. Actually, probably even more so. Avoid at all costs.

Their newer Primochill *Advanced* LRT tubing is plasticizer issue-free. It's by far the most recommended tube to buy these days for good reason.


----------



## RnRollie

stay away from ANY colour liquid additives, they are ALL bad for your system: staining, leeching, cloggin, etc
you can use some for a photoshoot purpose, but you have to drain & flush afterwards

if you want a more permant cool colour, buy a roll of tubing in that colour.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YawMawn*
> 
> Well, I did reply twice since posting that but if you want my full explanation, the guy (who, I repeat, works on the design of liquid cooling components for a living) said that the performance of CPU blocks is strongly affected by the water pressure. It didn't make all that much sense to me either, but by the sound of what he was trying to go for, the fact that the water immediately leaving the pump has a bunch of unsteady pressure gradients in it causes the water to behave differently in the block than if the pressure had equalized across the flow, and that this was beneficial.
> 
> I decided to give him the benefit of the doubt since he did quote his job and some of the experiments they've run on their designs. There are probably more factors involved than I care to know. Maybe the fin spacing was too high so getting turbulent flow was difficult, but having the block right after the pump made the flow turbulent in the block anyway, etc.


yes
he's right in sofar that the design of most modern CPU blocks use impingement & jetplates which require a certain minimum flow/pressure to get the best results.
If you are lucky, and you can keep the whole loop above that minimum, then it doesn't matter where the CPU is in the loop
It you're not sure you can achieve that flow/pressure, the best solution is to put the CPU block just after the pump

Of course modern blocks are not as sensitive to flow/pressure as the first generation of the impingement design blocks, nowadays they are fairly tolerant and operate in a relative wide range


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> stay away from ANY colour liquid additives, they are ALL bad for your system: staining, leeching, cloggin, etc
> you can use some for a photoshoot purpose, but you have to drain & flush afterwards
> 
> if you want a more permant cool colour, buy a roll of tubing in that colour.


wrong. only the original mayhems aurora was bad as in, it separated (color particles dropping out of suspension). only red is an issue for staining. dyes do not clog. people were thinking it was but the real problem was plasticizer leeching out and being stained by the dye. the stained plasticizer is what was clogging blocks.


----------



## kayan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> wrong. only the original mayhems aurora was bad as in, it separated (color particles dropping out of suspension). only red is an issue for staining. dyes do not clog. people were thinking it was but the real problem was plasticizer leeching out and being stained by the dye. the stained plasticizer is what was clogging blocks.


What brand of liquids would you suggest for use in some clear tubing and a XSPC Photon D5 tube rez? The rez is so sexy, and it looks so boring with just distilled water in it....


----------



## pc-illiterate

mayhems


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kayan*
> 
> I liked the tubing my kit came with much better than the advanced LRT stuff I ordered separately. The XSPC tubes were less restrictive when it came to bending. Anyway, have you noticed any staining in the tubes?


From experience XSPC tube plasterizes. I redid my whole system after a month. i forget what brand I am using now but its also black from clear so i cant tell.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Ah. Well I have the advanced, so must be why mine has been fine.


----------



## pc-illiterate

they are discussing xspc tubing in the gallery and club thread. apparently new kits contain a better tubing. i dont care. i use primochill advanced.


----------



## YawMawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sperson1*
> 
> Got a i7-4770K OC to 4.6 at 1.3 idle temps around 20-26c


I'm quite new to watercooling. I have a good loop going but I'm using a dual bay reservoir because I wanted to be sure it would work. How is that reservoir mounted? I definitely want to go with one of those cylindrical ones next time.


----------



## sperson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YawMawn*
> 
> I'm quite new to watercooling. I have a good loop going but I'm using a dual bay reservoir because I wanted to be sure it would work. How is that reservoir mounted? I definitely want to go with one of those cylindrical ones next time.


industrial strength double sided tape


----------



## YawMawn

Hahahahaha how anti-climactic


----------



## appaws

Just a quick comment and question for you guys.

First I have to comment that the installation of this block pretty much let me down. I just watched a video of a guy installing an EK Supremacy and it looked a lot better.

Here is my question:

One of my 4 mounting screws the top thumbscrew just spins around forever, as if it were not actually into the backplate or as if it were stripped or something. The bottom tightening one is tightened down though. The other 3 are normal. Performance is good and seems normal. Should I bother remounting this thing or just leave it?

I've read somewhere that it is actually preferred to mount this thing without the springs...is that the case?


----------



## PachAz

Well, if you dont have equal preassure on each screw I would consider that a problem, try to look at the other side of the motherboard plate and see if the screw is stripped or what the issues is. Raystorm block is expensive, it must function 100% correct.


----------



## YawMawn

Check the backplate. Try pushing down on the screw as much as you can while turning it, in case you're not biting into the threads properly. If you push against the backplate with one hand while pushing on the screw you won't have to worry about breaking anything either.

You could also try to swap the problematic screw with the one diagonally across it and see if your problem moves (screw is bad) or if it doesn't (hole is bad). While you're doing this, make sure to tighten them at roughly the same rate. Get the first screw to bite into the hole, then go to the other one. Once they're both in, tighten as you wish.

The springs aren't just some fancy aesthetic thing. They're there to give the setup some extra mounting pressure while also leaving some room to expand and contract due to temperature. When in doubt, give the major cooling component design and manufacturing company more credit than some guy on a forum.

If in the end you really can't get the screw to work, I wouldn't be too concerned about it. Three should be enough. It's not ideal but it's sufficient. Just don't tighten the third one as much as the other two, or you might start _lifting_ the unscrewed corner off the CPU.


----------



## appaws

OK, thanks for the responses.

I looked in back at the backplate and the screw was in there. I pulled it out and redid it just to be sure of what was going on. The screw is in the hole solidly. The problem is the top part of the screw itself, the thumbscrew part. It just spins around forever....but the screw is tightened down....and the bottom tension screw with the spring is working properly. They all are adjusted evenly and my temps are good, so I think it is just that the screw is a little messed up at the top part.


----------



## PachAz

Well, if the screws are soild in the backplate then its all good.


----------



## fraid

count me in just got the cheapo raystom kit with plans to put an up grade in every other monthh or so heres some pics of what i got will up date with my rig once up and running


----------



## Jflisk

Weather it plasticizes or gets stained iT all needs to be replaced eventually.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fraid*
> 
> count me in just got the cheapo raystom kit with plans to put an up grade in every other monthh or so heres some pics of what i got will up date with my rig once up and running


Did you happen to get the D5 pump with this kit.


----------



## fraid

No d5 pump that's my first upgrade I have planed though I'm thinking about the photon rez/pump along with some monsoon compression fittings.

On my phone now but have every thing done had to mod my case a little for the rad to fit in the top.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Weather it plasticizes or gets stained iT all needs to be replaced eventually.


There is nothing wrong with the rad or the cpu block or the fittings in any of the raystorm kits.


----------



## RX7-2nr

Microcenter stocks EX240 and EX360 kits on the shelves now. I was pretty shocked to see that. It's pretty great having somewhere close to buy a lot of this kind of stuff.


----------



## fraid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> There is nothing wrong with the rad or the cpu block or the fittings in any of the raystorm kits.


I wouldn't say nothing one of my fittings had the plating coming off it I don't know how normal it is for something like that but it seemed easier to get one from a friend than go thru the process of trying to get another sent out. But other than that the quality of everything else was flawless


----------



## pc-illiterate

I and others have had bitspower fittings fail at the rotaries. Every company has products that don't get caught during quality control. It's the downside of production.


----------



## fraid

Just an update of a few pics with it in my system. I used just plain distilled water along with the dead water that came with it. Im on the fence about coolant dye is it really as bad as everyone says?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










The limited edition sticker on my gpu came from wall mart in automotive just like the way it looks!!

case is an nzxt tempest 410 elite had to do some minor dremmeling.
To get the rad in the top of the case i had to cut out the section in red on each side.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Elyminator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> Microcenter stocks EX240 and EX360 kits on the shelves now. I was pretty shocked to see that. It's pretty great having somewhere close to buy a lot of this kind of stuff.


my local micro center had that plus! I had a similar reaction! I'm hoping that this is a growing trend with them I would love to be able to piece my next loop together locally. I like to be able to see and hold things... I'm weird like that


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fraid*
> 
> Just an update of a few pics with it in my system. I used just plain distilled water along with the dead water that came with it. Im on the fence about coolant dye is it really as bad as everyone says?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The limited edition sticker on my gpu came from wall mart in automotive just like the way it looks!!
> 
> case is an nzxt tempest 410 elite had to do some minor dremmeling.
> To get the rad in the top of the case i had to cut out the section in red on each side.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I know dye will stain anything it runs thru for an extended period of time. You might want to watch for plastirization on your tubing with or without dye.If you want to add color best bet colored tubing.


----------



## PachAz

I have the XSPC Raystorm and I have been running it for like 1.5 years or so and I wonder how much you should tighten the _thumb nut_? I have never really reflected upon it since once I thighten down the thumb screw I thought it was tight enough. But I have been wondering one thing though. Despite having good cooling components the radiators are barely hot even though my cpu shows like 88C in prime95 blend (yes I have 1.4 vcore). But If I play games or benchmark my GPU the radiators get much hotter and blows hotter air thru the fans (GPU also WC). This I think is because the contact between the GPU and WB is much better than on the CPU block and CPU?

Any thought about this? First time I think about this. I use Arctic MX-4 a "grain of rice" amount of paste.


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> I have the XSPC Raystorm and I have been running it for like 1.5 years or so and I wonder how much you should tighten the _thumb nut_? I have never really reflected upon it since once I thighten down the thumb screw I thought it was tight enough. But I have been wondering one thing though. Despite having good cooling components the radiators are barely hot even though my cpu shows like 88C in prime95 blend (yes I have 1.4 vcore). But If I play games or benchmark my GPU the radiators get much hotter and blows hotter air thru the fans (GPU also WC). This I think is because the contact between the GPU and WB is much better than on the CPU block and CPU?
> 
> Any thought about this? First time I think about this. I use Arctic MX-4 a "grain of rice" amount of paste.


I didn't add any additional pressure to it. By the time I get the post bottomed out there is a lot of resistance so I don't feel it needs extra pressure. This is on LGA 1366 though, other sockets may be higher or lower.

Even at full load and overclocked your 3570k is probably pulling half the power that your R9 290 is. That's why it gets significantly warmer when gaming.


----------



## skummm

Ah well.... only three and a bit years late to the party... but what the hell.... i'm IN












Loop: D5 @3000rpm / Dual bay res >> AX360 Radiator >> CPU >> GPU >> Res

Fans: 6x Noiseblocker Blacksilent Pro PL-2's on the rad in push pull @1400 rpm... not the best static pressure in the world but I really do not mind the noise they make at full speed.... other fans I have tried can be annoying at 1200rpm let alone faster but with these you get a pleasant wind rush noise and next to no motor whine or resonance issues.... me likey









Edit:

Well after some testing i'm liking the results so far:

CPU idles at 26°C and Prime 95 load is 60°C ... not bad considering it is a 3770K @4.2 / 1.17V ... I'd like to go faster but I guess the way forward with this chip is a delid or I have a 2700k which does not have the crappy paste under the heatspreader issue...

Anyone running a 3770k delided with the Raystorm block?

If so what are your load temps?

Anyway, while the CPU temps are ok I am however really impressed with the XSPC Titan V2 GPU block..... my 780 is now idling at 27°C and maxing out at 34°C









(ambient is 23°C)

I'm running the D5 at just under 3000rpm.... time to crank it up to see if I can get my CPU load temps down a bit...

Update to follow









Edit#2:

Just threw a 2700k in to see if i'm getting better temps....

Results:

2700k @ 4.5Ghz 1.29Vcore 64°C Prime 95 small FFT load.... hmmmm... better than the Ivy that's for sure but not blown away by these numbers....


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skummm*
> 
> I'm running the D5 at just under 3000rpm.... time to crank it up to see if I can get my CPU load temps down a bit...
> 
> Update to follow


dont be surprised if temps stay the same or go up. more pump doesnt necessarily mean better temps. you have a pretty small loop so there isnt much restriction at all.


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skummm*
> 
> CPU idles at 26°C and Prime 95 load is 60°C ... not bad considering it is a 3770K @4.2 / 1.17V ... I'd like to go faster but I guess the way forward with this chip is a delid or I have a 2700k which does not have the crappy paste under the heatspreader issue...
> 
> Update to follow


Ivy is pretty notorious for weird temp problems, that's probably why you're seeing 60C on such low voltage. Fortunately delidding is unbelievably easy with the vice/hammer method. I did a 3570k with a friend, it was just shocking how easy it is.


----------



## skummm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> Ivy is pretty notorious for weird temp problems, that's probably why you're seeing 60C on such low voltage. Fortunately delidding is unbelievably easy with the vice/hammer method. I did a 3570k with a friend, it was just shocking how easy it is.


Yep these load temps are a bit high for such a low voltage..... can't believe Intel's decision to change from solder to crappy paste for Ivy and Haswell









First i'm going to throw the 2700k in and have a look at those temps..... then it is time to get the vice and hammer out









*Update*:

Ok I pulled the Ivy out and threw the 2700K in....

I then cranked it to 4.5 @ 1.29V, revved the D5 up to max and then set it priming small FFT's for half an hour while thrashing the GPU as well ...

The CPU temps still seemed high at 71°C max but the GPU made me smile... maxing out at 39°C









I then decided to have a look at the Coretemp numbers (I had been using Realtemp up to this point) and then it hit me......Coretemp was reporting a full 7°C lower across the board.....D'OH!









Anyway... mystery solved.... Realtemp was lying to me when I should have been running Realtemp GT ....oooops!


----------



## Pendaz

My Black lights and UV tubing arrived, first attempt at draining my loop (to replace the tubing) went very well


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skummm*
> 
> Ah well.... only three and a bit years late to the party... but what the hell.... i'm IN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loop: D5 @3000rpm / Dual bay res >> AX360 Radiator >> CPU >> GPU >> Res
> 
> Fans: 6x Noiseblocker Blacksilent Pro PL-2's on the rad in push pull @1400 rpm... not the best static pressure in the world but I really do not mind the noise they make at full speed.... other fans I have tried can be annoying at 1200rpm let alone faster but with these you get a pleasant wind rush noise and next to no motor whine or resonance issues.... me likey
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Well after some testing i'm liking the results so far:
> 
> CPU idles at 26°C and Prime 95 load is 60°C ... not bad considering it is a 3770K @4.2 / 1.17V ... I'd like to go faster but I guess the way forward with this chip is a delid or I have a 2700k which does not have the crappy paste under the heatspreader issue...
> 
> Anyone running a 3770k delided with the Raystorm block?
> 
> If so what are your load temps?
> 
> Anyway, while the CPU temps are ok I am however really impressed with the XSPC Titan V2 GPU block..... my 780 is now idling at 27°C and maxing out at 34°C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (ambient is 23°C)
> 
> I'm running the D5 at just under 3000rpm.... time to crank it up to see if I can get my CPU load temps down a bit...
> 
> Update to follow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit#2:
> 
> Just threw a 2700k in to see if i'm getting better temps....
> 
> Results:
> 
> 2700k @ 4.5Ghz 1.29Vcore 64°C Prime 95 small FFT load.... hmmmm... better than the Ivy that's for sure but not blown away by these numbers....


Just out of curiosity, you have a similar setup to mine, i'm 4770k on the raystorm block with a dual rad. Currently running my 780ti on the stock cooler and i plan to put it under water using that titan/780ti block.

My question is what is the rest of your loop consist of exactly? AX360 Radiator is a triple rad correct? I'm wondering if i'll be able to add my gpu to the loop with my current dual rad or would i have to add a 2nd as i don't have space for a triple i was thinking another dual at the front of my case for the gpu.


----------



## skummm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pendaz*
> 
> My Black lights and UV tubing arrived, first attempt at draining my loop (to replace the tubing) went very well
> 
> Just out of curiosity, you have a similar setup to mine, i'm 4770k on the raystorm block with a dual rad. Currently running my 780ti on the stock cooler and i plan to put it under water using that titan/780ti block.
> 
> My question is what is the rest of your loop consist of exactly? AX360 Radiator is a triple rad correct? I'm wondering if i'll be able to add my gpu to the loop with my current dual rad or would i have to add a 2nd as i don't have space for a triple i was thinking another dual at the front of my case for the gpu.


Yes, the radiator in question is the XSPC AX360, a triple unit that works pretty well with lowish speed fans, and yes just this one Rad in my loop to cool the GTX 780 and the 2700k (3770k again soon now I know why the temps were higher than expected







)

My 780 was at 1106 GPU 6400 ram /stock volts for my initial testing which got me 34°C when stressed on it's own and 39°C when stressed while the CPU was also priming at 4.5Ghz / 1.29v which is just great









Max boost clock was a steady 1349Mhz in Valley







Skyn3t bios FTW









If you are going to get the XSPC block and you have a reference card make sure you get the GTX 780 / *GTX 780 Ti* / Titan one, not the older 780 / Titan one as then you will be able to upgrade to a TI / Titan Black with the same block









Now to your question, yep if your current rad / fans setup is good and you are rocking the D5 pump then you could get away with adding the 780 to this loop with just the dual rad. Temps will be a bit higher than mine i'd say but you will be fine. Add a second dual rad however, and you will probably get lower temps than me









The black hose leading downwards from the GPU in my pic is just a drain hose btw.... it's not connected to anything else


----------



## Pendaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skummm*
> 
> Yes, the radiator in question is the XSPC AX360, a triple unit that works pretty well with lowish speed fans, and yes just this one Rad in my loop to cool the GTX 780 and the 2700k (3770k again soon now I know why the temps were higher than expected
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> My 780 was at 1106 GPU 6400 ram /stock volts for my initial testing which got me 34°C when stressed on it's own and 39°C when stressed while the CPU was also priming at 4.5Ghz / 1.29v which is just great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Max boost clock was a steady 1349Mhz in Valley
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skyn3t bios FTW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you are going to get the XSPC block and you have a reference card make sure you get the GTX 780 / *GTX 780 Ti* / Titan one, not the older 780 / Titan one as then you will be able to upgrade to a TI / Titan Black with the same block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to your question, yep if your current rad / fans setup is good and you are rocking the D5 pump then you could get away with adding the 780 to this loop with just the dual rad. Temps will be a bit higher than mine i'd say but you will be fine. Add a second dual rad however, and you will probably get lower temps than me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The black hose leading downwards from the GPU in my pic is just a drain hose btw.... it's not connected to anything else


Thanks for the info mate, very helpful

Im still learning, not even 100% sure if my card is reference or not, (its a PNY 780Ti with twin fans?) Unfortunately i'm not rocking a D5 but my plans on the next purchase includes a new res and a d5 to power it - so i guess i'll throw in a 2nd duel rad along with the XSPC 780ti Water block - can't hurt right?









Thanks again for the info


----------



## skummm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pendaz*
> 
> Thanks for the info mate, very helpful
> 
> Im still learning, not even 100% sure if my card is reference or not, (its a PNY 780Ti with twin fans?) Unfortunately i'm not rocking a D5 but my plans on the next purchase includes a new res and a d5 to power it - so i guess i'll throw in a 2nd duel rad along with the XSPC 780ti Water block - can't hurt right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again for the info


No worries









You mean you have this card?

http://s263.photobucket.com/user/sk...-GDDR5-VCGGTX780T3XPB-OC_zpsf0c4ea3d.jpg.html

If so it is definitely not a reference design, the layout of the VRM's is completely different.....

Ref Card:

http://s263.photobucket.com/user/sk...X-Ti-3GB-GDDR5-PCB_98233_zpse45f7737.jpg.html

Your card (Same board design as the Palit Jetstream 780Ti)

http://s263.photobucket.com/user/sk...am-PCB_44752_58081_70615_zps9e65ad53.jpg.html

See the difference?

The XSPC block will definitely not fit this card, however EKWB make a full cover block that will









Just use their video card "Cooling Configurator" to navigate to the right block for your card....

Either sell / swap your card for a reference card or grab the EK block.... up to you









EK block that will fit your card:


----------



## Pendaz

No i'm pretty sure mine is the reference card, i asked in this thread (pictures included) so i'm all set and ready for upgrading my loop - i'm going to go with your xspc water block










Thanks again for the help!


----------



## skummm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pendaz*
> 
> No i'm pretty sure mine is the reference card, i asked in this thread (pictures included) so i'm all set and ready for upgrading my loop - i'm going to go with your xspc water block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again for the help!


Yep that's definitely a reference board..... you're good to go









Edit:

It's weird that there is no mention of this card on the PNY site..... discontinued already?


----------



## Pendaz

i guess so yeah, i had a similar issue when trying to flash the bios - no information on this card anywhere it seems


----------



## Pendaz

Updated:


----------



## Mr357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pendaz*
> 
> Updated:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The glow of that tubing looks fantastic!


----------



## lostinsurf

Hey guys quick question,

I have a Raystorm 240 that I recently upgraded with a Photon 170 with D5 cooling my stock clocked 4770K. Right now, with ambient at 27°C I idle at about 33-35°C and at load with prime95 I sit at about 65-67°C. My flow from the d5 seems really low so before I took it apart I figured I would check with what others a getting.

Thanks a bunch!

EDIT: After downloading the newest P95 my max temps reach into 75°C range


----------



## BadDad62

Does the Raystorm need to be mounted in a particular way??

most seem to be this way


Is there any issue with this way?


----------



## Pendaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr357*
> 
> The glow of that tubing looks fantastic!


Thanks mate







Its XSPC Clear UV Reactive with EK Blood red Liquid running through it, gives it a kind of red hue at certain angles







i'm pretty happy with it now - after changing the tubing 4 times haha


----------



## skummm

Looking Good Pendaz









ps. just how hot is that GPU running now?


----------



## YawMawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lostinsurf*
> 
> Hey guys quick question,
> 
> I have a Raystorm 240 that I recently upgraded with a Photon 170 with D5 cooling my stock clocked 4770K. Right now, with ambient at 27°C I idle at about 33-35°C and at load with prime95 I sit at about 65-67°C. My flow from the d5 seems really low so before I took it apart I figured I would check with what others a getting.
> 
> Thanks a bunch!
> 
> EDIT: After downloading the newest P95 my max temps reach into 75°C range


Haswell is similar to Ivy Bridge with thermal issues. Your idle temperature difference is pretty good, but load is getting to be a bit high. My Ivy Bridge hits low 70's under full Prime95 load 24/7, but it is also overclocked to 4.5 GHz.

I don't remember what my temperatures were like in my Prime95 stress tests but I know they can be higher than actual primality tests because they're designed to stress certain parts of the hardware (four Large FFT workers will bottleneck 2800 MHz RAM before the 4.5 GHz i5-3570k but small FFTs will saturate the CPU way before the RAM, so it is working harder and hotter). The newest version of Prime95 has Haswell optimizations which will heat it up further, especially in stress tests.

However, you should only be getting those temperatures with a fairly aggressive overclock and extra voltage, so if you are concerned about bad flow out of your pump, then that could be the problem.

How is your pump controlled? PWM? Is it a D5 Vario? What is the rest of your loop like? 4-6 blocks / rads and too many tight turns might be too restrictive.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> Does the Raystorm need to be mounted in a particular way??
> 
> most seem to be this way
> 
> 
> Is there any issue with this way?


The mounting hardware is designed for horizontal orientation. The pegs may look square but I don't know if they are. My guess is you're probably okay mounting it however you like, but make sure the inlet and outlet are still correctly matched.

EDIT: Actually, it will work but you're going to take a performance hit. The flow inside the block is arranged in such a way that the water is focused on a vertical line directly above the cores, before it spreads out. You're going to lose that because by rotating the block, you're getting the focused water at a location which is further away from the cores. It shouldn't be too bad, because you still have the heatspreader and a solid copper block to conduct the heat around, but keep in mind this waterblock was professionally designed for operation in the advertised and recommended position.

I had actually written up a blurb about taking the block apart and reorienting the components inside for a horizontal core arrangement but come to think of it, I don't think that will work. Something you could try if you have the inclination...


----------



## DeXel

I have actually read that 90 degree rotated blocks give better temps due to vertical location of die of most recent Intel CPUs.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285753-CPU-water-blocks-roundup
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1708036


----------



## Pendaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skummm*
> 
> Looking Good Pendaz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ps. just how hot is that GPU running now?


Thanks









I'm massively impressed with my temps now, on air it was ~40-45c, now its idle @ ~18-22c - under load i've never seen it go above 45c (its now overclocked to 1290Mhz @ 1.3V)

Very impressed considering its all running on a single dual rad









the only other change i made is i replaced the res with the XSPC D5 Pump/Res - this probably made a difference too thanks to the higher flow rates


----------



## KnownDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadDad62*
> 
> Does the Raystorm need to be mounted in a particular way??
> 
> most seem to be this way
> 
> 
> Is there any issue with this way?


Rotate the block not the mount!


----------



## d1nky

There was a review at martinslab I believe. The outlet at the top is the meant to be the best configuration.


----------



## lostinsurf

lol...I just mounted it at a straight line...tonight I will change it around and do a test. The main reason my temps were high is because in my mad rush to finish the build, and possibly one too many beers, while I was getting the horribly twisted outer o-ring on the block I inadvertently rotated the copper base 90° so my jet plate was out of alignment.

Now I have an ambient of 26°C and it idles of 28°C and loads on prime95 27.9 of max about 67° which has been running about 18min.

Tonight or most likely tomorrow I will reorient back to 90° ( the block). The reason I installed my block like that was that is how I had to do it on my phenom II X6. There was only one way to go. It also made the most sense that the air would be able to travel through as well the heat with inlet on the bottom and the outlet on the top.


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I have actually read that 90 degree rotated blocks give better temps due to vertical location of die of most recent Intel CPUs.
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285753-CPU-water-blocks-roundup
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1708036


Agreed, I got better temperatures on two different cpus by mounting it with the fittings aligned vertically.


----------



## d1nky

my modified XSPC RS 240 kit......


----------



## QAKE

Here is a small mod of the XSPC Raystorm in my build. (Build log in signature)


----------



## QAKE

Small teaser of the final build. Pictures are coming tomorrow. Stay tuned!


----------



## Pendaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Here is a small mod of the XSPC Raystorm in my build. (Build log in signature)


god damn that looks sexy! did you paint it yourself or did you buy it in that colour? i've never seen them in red before?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pendaz*
> 
> god damn that looks sexy! did you paint it yourself or did you buy it in that colour? i've never seen them in red before?


They are available in anumber of colours http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-cpu/

This is a custom paint & polish job i think


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> They are available in anumber of colours http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-cpu/
> 
> This is a custom paint & polish job i think


You're right, I've modded this one. But at the time I didn't noticed that you could buy them in different colors!









Oh, and here are some pics of the completed rig (more pictures in signature under GAMMA) with this waterblock:

Build featuring 2x GTX780 Poseidon, both air and water cooled, I7 4770K, Asus M6F, etc, etc


----------



## Ithanul

Hehe, love the Boarderlands reference. Over all, very nice build.


----------



## joedirt2009

Trying to get my dream pc built
Progress underway
Thermaltake lvl10 gt snow edition case
Evga supernova 1000g2 psu
Asus iv rampage black edition motherboard
Intel i7 4930k 3.4ghz 6 core processor
Corsair dominator pro 16g ram(not purchased yet)
Evga 780ti dual bios 2880 Cuda core gpu(not purchased yet)
Lg blu-ray combo drive(not yet purchased)
Hard drives not yet purchased
Custom loop cooling by xspc
Raystorm cpu water block
Xspc 780ti gpu full water block
Xspc Asus rampage chip set water blocks
Xspc ram water blocks
270 photon res/pump combo
Uv coolant
Uv tubing
Bitspower rotary compression fittings
Uv sleeving
Uv led lights
Xspc 240 dual radiator and 120 radiator with nexus led fans in push/pull series
Still a lot of work to do
Work in progress as I can afford to by parts
I'll keep updated if anyone is interested in build status


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joedirt2009*
> 
> Trying to get my dream pc built
> Progress underway
> Thermaltake lvl10 gt snow edition case
> Evga supernova 1000g2 psu
> Asus iv rampage black edition motherboard
> Intel i7 4930k 3.4ghz 6 core processor
> Corsair dominator pro 16g ram(not purchased yet)
> Evga 780ti dual bios 2880 Cuda core gpu(not purchased yet)
> Lg blu-ray combo drive(not yet purchased)
> Hard drives not yet purchased
> Custom loop cooling by xspc
> Raystorm cpu water block
> Xspc 780ti gpu full water block
> Xspc Asus rampage chip set water blocks
> Xspc ram water blocks
> 270 photon res/pump combo
> Uv coolant
> Uv tubing
> Bitspower rotary compression fittings
> Uv sleeving
> Uv led lights
> Xspc 240 dual radiator and 120 radiator with nexus led fans in push/pull series
> Still a lot of work to do
> Work in progress as I can afford to by parts
> I'll keep updated if anyone is interested in build status


Six things:
1. you do not have enough radiator to cool CPU + GPU , unless you don't mind setting your fans to full speed most of the time
2. Chip set & VRM & RAM waterblocks look cool, but they mostly add restriction to the loop... and see above.
3. The photon is a very nice res/pump combo... make sure to get the D5 version
4. the nexus silent led fans do not list any Static Pressure, which usually casts some doubts on their suitability as rad fans. However, if you run them in push/pull at full speed all teh time, they might work








5. The lvl 10 is seriously lacking radiator mounting possibilitties, consider another case, or consider goign external radiators (on a stand)
6. you do not have enough radiator to cool CPU + GPU , unless you don't mind setting your fans to full speed most of the time


----------



## joedirt2009

Nexus fans run 38,87 cfm
I don't plan on oc the CPU or card
And the pump is a d5


----------



## joedirt2009

The CPU and chip set and ram will run on the 240
And 120 will run the card


----------



## RnRollie

for radiator fans, Static Pressure is a bit more important than CFM... i can list you fans with close to 1000 CFM, but if you would put them on a radiator, their CFM would drop to like 10 CFM

as for rad assignation.. you do know that GPU's run substantially hotter as CPU's, yes?
While GPU's can run happily at 80°C all day, a CPU wont, it'll throttle at 60°C. But a CPU's output is between 60 & 100W , while a GPU like the 780 is well over 200 W and that is a bit much for a single 120mm rad


----------



## Alastair

Sup guys. Here is an update.

Rig is.
FX-8350 at 5GHz 24/7 @1.584V
GPU's are 6850's at 1050MHz Core @ 1.275V and 1225MHz Memory @+50mv running in parallel flow.
Pump is the XSPC X20 750 Pump/Res overvolted to 15V
Radiators are EX280 and EX360.
Fans are Aerocool Sharkfan 140mm's, CoolerMaster Jetflo's and CoolerMaster Storm Force 200's.


Temps are 59C on the CPU and 48C and 45C on the GPU's respectively when playing Crysis 3 once the water has reached temperature.


----------



## YawMawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joedirt2009*
> 
> The CPU and chip set and ram will run on the 240
> And 120 will run the card


If I understand what I saw, you only have one pump but you're somehow going to get rads assigned to specific components?

This is a serious misconception in watercooling that apparently cannot be explained enough times. The water in your loop does not heat up substantially between components. It's not like the water is 15C hotter after passing through the CPU block.

Water has a specific heat capacity of 4180 Joules per Kilogram (or liter) per degree C. Take your heat input in Watts, multiply by time in seconds and divide by 4180 and you will get the number of degrees in Kelvin or Celcius by which the water heats up. For example, 83.6W for 50 seconds will heat up a liter of water by a single degree. Let's go crazy and say your heat output is going to be 418W. The water will take ten seconds _per liter_ to heat up by a single degree. If you have a 1 liter loop and a pathetic flow rate of 0.1 Liter per second (that's 360 liters per hour) then it takes the flow 10 seconds to go around the loop, so the coolant will only warm up by a single degree after an entire pass through the loop. There is no noticeable difference at any point through the loop, so the component order doesn't matter, and the rad between your cpu/chipset/ram/VRM config and your GPU isn't any special effect on your GPU.

Next, the notion that you don't have enough radiators is only true to an extent. The rate at which heat is convected away from the radiators depends roughly on the air flow rate, but directly (and linearly) with the surface area for convection and the difference in temperature between the fluid and ambient. Doubling your rad space will roughly half the temperature difference. However, for this loop, you have to remember you have a constant (maximum) heat output.

People make it sound like radiators have a limited amount of Watts they can dissipate and if you don't have enough, the water in your loop will slowly rise until it boils. The truth is, the water will continue to get hotter until it is hot enough to create the same amount of heat dissipation as you're putting into the fluid through your GPU, CPU, etc.

You certainly could use another radiator, but it will only bump your temperatures up by maybe 5C-10C if you don't.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

^ +1
Very rep-worthy comment.


----------



## joedirt2009

I was thinking my rads would work. I'm not pushing my pc hell I don't even game I'm just using it for a media center and a eye candy piece in my living room not trying to set of records just wanted something nice for a change lol


----------



## Draven

I'm going to be updating my rig with a 7990 and a full XSPC gpu waterblock to go along with my Raystorm, pics coming soon.


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> ^ +1
> Very rep-worthy comment.


It's repeated over and over and over and still there are tons of loop order threads.


----------



## KnownDragon

So I went naked die cooling with my raystorm. The benefits are unbelievable but was a little tricky to do.


----------



## UnrealEdge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Sup guys. Here is an update.
> 
> Rig is.
> FX-8350 at 5GHz 24/7 @1.584V
> GPU's are 6850's at 1050MHz Core @ 1.275V and 1225MHz Memory @+50mv running in parallel flow.
> Pump is the XSPC X20 750 Pump/Res overvolted to 15V
> Radiators are EX280 and EX360.
> Fans are Aerocool Sharkfan 140mm's, CoolerMaster Jetflo's and CoolerMaster Storm Force 200's.
> 
> 
> Temps are 59C on the CPU and 48C and 45C on the GPU's respectively when playing Crysis 3 once the water has reached temperature.


I want to do this to my rig, I also have a 8350 (at 4.6GHz on just a H100i) with a 7970 GHz edition and 280x in crossfire. I wanted to start off with the Raystorm 750 EX360 kit then upgrade the pump and add the graphics cards into the loop. Not sure if I'm missing something I should upgrade in the initial kit though. Sick build.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnrealEdge*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Sup guys. Here is an update.
> 
> Rig is.
> FX-8350 at 5GHz 24/7 @1.584V
> GPU's are 6850's at 1050MHz Core @ 1.275V and 1225MHz Memory @+50mv running in parallel flow.
> Pump is the XSPC X20 750 Pump/Res overvolted to 15V
> Radiators are EX280 and EX360.
> Fans are Aerocool Sharkfan 140mm's, CoolerMaster Jetflo's and CoolerMaster Storm Force 200's.
> 
> 
> Temps are 59C on the CPU and 48C and 45C on the GPU's respectively when playing Crysis 3 once the water has reached temperature.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to do this to my rig, I also have a 8350 (at 4.6GHz on just a H100i) with a 7970 GHz edition and 280x in crossfire. I wanted to start off with the Raystorm 750 EX360 kit then *upgrade the pump* and add the graphics cards into the loop. Not sure if I'm missing something I should upgrade in the initial kit though. Sick build.
Click to expand...

Yes, start with a Raystorm D5 kit... otherwise your upgrade the pump consists of throwing away the 750 res


----------



## UnrealEdge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Yes, start with a Raystorm D5 kit... otherwise your upgrade the pump consists of throwing away the 750 res


Thank you


----------



## dante`afk

http://www.nikktech.com/main/articles/pc-hardware/cpu-coolers/2482-xspc-raystorm-750-ex280-watercooling-kit

how come that the watercooling is just about only 5c on idle and 8c on load better temperatures than a regular aircooler?


----------



## DeXel

It's only 280mm rad. Besides, GPU watercooling is so much more fun because they benefit way more (90C on air, 50C and under on water).


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> http://www.nikktech.com/main/articles/pc-hardware/cpu-coolers/2482-xspc-raystorm-750-ex280-watercooling-kit
> 
> how come that the watercooling is just about only 5c on idle and 8c on load better temperatures than a regular aircooler?


~9% better CPU temps is quite an improvement imho. That's quite a bit better than the ~4-5% better temps typically seen with a 280mm AIO like an H110i on a 3930k over what can be achieved with the very best (also the biggest and most garish) air coolers . Not sure what you were expecting to see. Even with more rads and more/better fans you're not likely going to get a whole lot better than that.


----------



## Alex132

Now that I have a better mic, here is the sound my pump makes:

The mic is about 20cm away from it...

pumpsound.zip 153k .zip file


Any ideas?


----------



## carlhil2

Once the clocks/volts rise, the custom water will show it's true worth...


----------



## AmcieK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Now that I have a better mic, here is the sound my pump makes:
> 
> The mic is about 20cm away from it...
> 
> pumpsound.zip 153k .zip file
> 
> 
> Any ideas?


Hello . I have this kit > http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21235/ex-wat-270/XSPC_Raystorm_750_EX240_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_New_Rev_4_Pump_Included_w_Free_Dead-Water.html
And i mount today my custom loop and have the same problem ;]

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=AF9EC1DE3F35BF4C!10131&authkey=!AId8qcoYv8WvIqQ&ithint=video%2cmp4

Its normal or is pomp is damage.


----------



## Duality92

Both AMD and Intel








i5 750 @ 3440 on stock voltage
FX-6350 @ 5175 on 1.45v Vcore, 1.52v Load.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Sup guys. Here is an update.
> 
> Rig is.
> FX-8350 at 5GHz 24/7 @1.584V
> GPU's are 6850's at 1050MHz Core @ 1.275V and 1225MHz Memory @+50mv running in parallel flow.
> Pump is the XSPC X20 750 Pump/Res overvolted to 15V
> Radiators are EX280 and EX360.
> Fans are Aerocool Sharkfan 140mm's, CoolerMaster Jetflo's and CoolerMaster Storm Force 200's.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps are 59C on the CPU and 48C and 45C on the GPU's respectively when playing Crysis 3 once the water has reached temperature.


For some reason the first thing that popped into my head upon seeing this computer is the song blue by eiffel 65, which is kinda strange considering i have not heard that song in over 2 years.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AmcieK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Now that I have a better mic, here is the sound my pump makes:
> 
> The mic is about 20cm away from it...
> 
> pumpsound.zip 153k .zip file
> 
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> Hello . I have this kit > http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21235/ex-wat-270/XSPC_Raystorm_750_EX240_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_New_Rev_4_Pump_Included_w_Free_Dead-Water.html
> And i mount today my custom loop and have the same problem ;]
> 
> https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=AF9EC1DE3F35BF4C!10131&authkey=!AId8qcoYv8WvIqQ&ithint=video%2cmp4
> 
> Its normal or is pomp is damage.
Click to expand...

No idea. I am not taking any chances and changing away from this crap pump anyways, going to get a D5.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AmcieK*
> 
> Hello . I have this kit > http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21235/ex-wat-270/XSPC_Raystorm_750_EX240_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_New_Rev_4_Pump_Included_w_Free_Dead-Water.html
> And i mount today my custom loop and have the same problem ;]
> 
> https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=AF9EC1DE3F35BF4C!10131&authkey=!AId8qcoYv8WvIqQ&ithint=video%2cmp4
> 
> Its normal or is pomp is damage.


Sounds like normal pump noise there not quite. Thanks


----------



## AmcieK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Sounds like normal pump noise there not quite. Thanks


I put pump on 7V and now its work quiet . So its normal sound for this pump :/


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AmcieK*
> 
> I put pump on 7V and now its work quiet . So its normal sound for this pump :/


I run mine at 24v (mine is a D5 pump though) so yep its a little loud. You might want to go back to 12V think that 12V is the minimum voltage without doing damage to the pump. Thanks


----------



## AmcieK

Hmm what i can damage on lower voltage . Pump worked slowly , flow falls down . Only temp can be higher.

Found the test http://www.pureoverclock.com/Review-detail/xspc-x2o-750-reservoir-pump/6/
Quote:


> The X2O 750 pump has no problems operating from 5V up to 15V


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AmcieK*
> 
> Hmm what i can damage on lower voltage . Pump worked slowly , flow falls down . Only temp can be higher.
> 
> Found the test http://www.pureoverclock.com/Review-detail/xspc-x2o-750-reservoir-pump/6/


Okay then 5V or more will work for your pump and yes the flow will go down and the temps will go up a little. A lot of the pumps stuff I read says do not run at low voltages.

You might want to have a read here. Might help with all questions. Its your pump not sure about the reservoir.
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/01/20/xspc-x2o-750-dual-bay-nylon-reservoir-pump/


----------



## AmcieK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Okay then 5V or more will work for your pump and yes the flow will go down and the temps will go up a little. A lot of the pumps stuff I read says do not run at low voltages.
> 
> You might want to have a read here. Might help with all questions. Its your pump not sure about the reservoir.
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/01/20/xspc-x2o-750-dual-bay-nylon-reservoir-pump/


Thank's its my combo







A little regrets that it does not put a couple $$ more version of D5.


----------



## Bazerka

Can I join? Water cooling build in progress with my raystorm cooling an i5 3570k

Waiting for the last part (xspc photon 170) to complete my build.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazerka*
> 
> 
> Can I join? Water cooling build in progress with my raystorm cooling an i5 3570k
> 
> Waiting for the last part (xspc photon 170) to complete my build.


My god that acrylic tube bending looks beautiful.


----------



## Bazerka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> My god that acrylic tube bending looks beautiful.


Haha thanks, its actually PETG tubing so it was a bit easier to bend


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazerka*
> 
> Haha thanks, its actually PETG tubing so it was a bit easier to bend


well dang son, ruin the moment. still looks good either way though


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bazerka*
> 
> 
> Can I join? Water cooling build in progress with my raystorm cooling an i5 3570k
> 
> Waiting for the last part (xspc photon 170) to complete my build.
> 
> 
> 
> My god that acrylic tube bending looks beautiful.
Click to expand...

The left hand CPU tube is a bit skew though


----------



## XanderTheGoober

I just like the way it looks routed over top of the gpu. would be a pain to remove the gpu but none the less looks nice in my opinion


----------



## Bazerka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> The left hand CPU tube is a bit skew though


Yea I had to measure it by hand haha. So the measurements are off. I have a few more feet of tubing coming in and will bend a new one for it later


----------



## Bazerka

Red came in and leak testing now. Gotta figure out how to get rid of the bubbles


----------



## Bazerka

Finished. Just waiting for LEDs for the pump


----------



## Chip Pippins

Hey guys. I am thinking of joining the club!

I am planning on buying the 5960x on release, and was looking at custom water cooling solutions. I settled on XSPC after some reading, but I am having trouble deciding between the different kits.

There is this $189.99 kit:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=40967

And this $389.99 kit:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=40671

I don't see many differences between the two kits aside from pumps and block material. Do the pumps make that much of a difference? What about the copper block material?

This would be my first water cooling setup and I must say I'm a bit overwhelmed by all the parts and selection.

Also, are compression fittings worth it over barbed fittings?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## DeXel

You don't really need dual D5 one. I would recommend XSPC kit with single D5 kit over 750 pump though.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=40348
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=33550

750 has pretty big failure rate from what I've seen so far.


----------



## Chip Pippins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> You don't really need dual D5 one. I would recommend XSPC kit with single D5 kit over 750 pump though.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=40348
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=33550
> 
> 750 has pretty big failure rate from what I've seen so far.


Wow thanks for the rapid response! Is the only scenario where you'd need the dual D5s when you have a water cooling system with cpu & gpu?


----------



## DeXel

The only time you need 2 D5s is when you have like 5 blocks and ton of radiator space.

Single D5 is enough for most loops like 2 GPUs and 1 CPU, and more.

Some people buy dual pump setups just for redundancy.


----------



## Chip Pippins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> The only time you need 2 D5s is when you have like 5 blocks and ton of radiator space.
> 
> Single D5 is enough for most loops like 2 GPUs and 1 CPU, and more.
> 
> Some people buy dual pump setups just for redundancy.


Got it. Is the copper block (which is +$45) worth the extra money in terms of performance, or is the difference negligible?


----------



## Razor2014

Hi, starting a new build and needed some advice on the WC end of it. Some details first...
Case: CM Stryker
Mobo: Asus R4BE
CPU: i7-4960x
Ram: G.Skill Ripjaws Z 2133 16GB
GPU: GTX 690
PSU: Antec HCP-1300
I've been looking at the XSPC Raystorm D5(s) dual bay AX240 and also the Photon. Are the bay res's harder to fill and bleed compared to the Photon? I see a person should stay away from the 750 pumps, what about the black nylon res's?
Thanks!


----------



## asuindasun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razor2014*
> 
> Hi, starting a new build and needed some advice on the WC end of it. Some details first...
> Case: CM Stryker
> Mobo: Asus R4BE
> CPU: i7-4960x
> Ram: G.Skill Ripjaws Z 2133 16GB
> GPU: GTX 690
> PSU: Antec HCP-1300
> I've been looking at the XSPC Raystorm D5(s) dual bay AX240 and also the Photon. Are the bay res's harder to fill and bleed compared to the Photon? I see a person should stay away from the 750 pumps, what about the black nylon res's?
> Thanks!


I didnt have any issues filling/bleeding with my XSPC Rasa kit from about 2 years ago. I just ordered the D5 RX240 bay res kit since I had no issues with the res.

Anyone in the group done a 360 top 240 bottom mount rad loop in a HAF932 or HAF X? Going to be cutting the case bottom up for the 240 rad this weekend and looking for any suggestion.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chip Pippins*
> 
> Got it. Is the copper block (which is +$45) worth the extra money in terms of performance, or is the difference negligible?


The difference was negligible, and it's rather overpriced.

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2012/11/09/2012-cpu-water-block-roundup/


----------



## Chip Pippins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> The difference was negligible, and it's rather overpriced.
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2012/11/09/2012-cpu-water-block-roundup/


Thanks again very much, you were a huge help!

I ended up getting this one:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=33550


----------



## Razor2014

So what do you guys think would fit better between an AX240 or a RX240 in the top of a Stryker case (with a R4BE)?


----------



## Razor2014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razor2014*
> 
> So what do you guys think would fit better between an AX240 or a RX240 in the top of a Stryker case (with a R4BE)?


An AX240 will fit, has anyone tried or has fit a RX240 in the top?
Thanks.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razor2014*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Razor2014*
> 
> So what do you guys think would fit better between an AX240 or a RX240 in the top of a Stryker case (with a R4BE)?
> 
> 
> 
> An AX240 will fit, has anyone tried or has fit a RX240 in the top?
> Thanks.
Click to expand...

The RX240 will only fit if you remove the bottom HDD cages and place it there IIRC.










http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/39293-rx-240-in-cm-storm-stryker/


----------



## Razor2014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> The RX240 will only fit if you remove the bottom HDD cages and place it there IIRC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/39293-rx-240-in-cm-storm-stryker/


Great thanks Alex, I'll stick with putting an AX240 in the top and a RX240 in the bottom.


----------



## d1nky

I've got a D5 in the XSPC D5 res/bay and the pump is leaking from the big locking nut. Only slightly but....

Anyone have some tips on how to seal the bad boy?!


----------



## asuindasun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1nky*
> 
> I've got a D5 in the XSPC D5 res/bay and the pump is leaking from the big locking nut. Only slightly but....
> 
> Anyone have some tips on how to seal the bad boy?!


Re-seat the o-ring yet? If not, I'd try that and make sure the ring is in good shape. Otherwise just tighten it up?


----------



## AK-47

Ordered me a D5 RX360 kit and had a few questions
1. what fittings does it come with? compression or barb? looks like compression from the pics.
2. D5 is a good pump from my understanding so it should be enough even if I add a monsta 280 and 2 GPU blocks right?
3. what in the blue hell is the point of that copper block if it barely improves temps?
4. What is this crossflow business? price difference seemed negligible so performance should be as well?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AK-47*
> 
> Ordered me a D5 RX360 kit and had a few questions
> 1. what fittings does it come with? compression or barb? looks like compression from the pics.
> 2. D5 is a good pump from my understanding so it should be enough even if I add a monsta 280 and 2 GPU blocks right?
> 3. what in the blue hell is the point of that copper block if it barely improves temps?
> 4. What is this crossflow business? price difference seemed negligible so performance should be as well?


1) Barb + plastic clamps. IIRC the AX kits come with comp fittings. But XSPC comps arent that great, they're rather large. If you want comps, get Bitspower.

2) D5 is amazing, it can easily handle that. Dunno if they have the PWM or Vario version in the kit though - either are great just they offer different ways to handle the speed. I wouldn't get the monsta 280, rad thickness doesn't do much past ~45-60mm. Rather get a longer rad.

3) Looks. Also no chance of gunking up the loop if the nickle flakes off. (IMO love the look of copper, but hate the Raystorm block mounting mechanism - so gonna move to the EK Supreme Evo ASAP). Tip for mounting the block: do not attempt to mount it any other orientation than horizontal.

4) Crossflow... I think it's just the way in which the water passes through the rad. Nothing important IIRC. But I thought that was only the EX series of radiators.... unless I am thinking of something else


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> 1) Barb + plastic clamps. IIRC the AX kits come with comp fittings. But XSPC comps arent that great, they're rather large. If you want comps, get Bitspower.
> 
> 2) D5 is amazing, it can easily handle that. Dunno if they have the PWM or Vario version in the kit though - either are great just they offer different ways to handle the speed. I wouldn't get the monsta 280, rad thickness doesn't do much past ~45-60mm. Rather get a longer rad.
> 
> 3) Looks. Also no chance of gunking up the loop if the nickle flakes off. (IMO love the look of copper, but hate the Raystorm block mounting mechanism - so gonna move to the EK Supreme Evo ASAP). Tip for mounting the block: do not attempt to mount it any other orientation than horizontal.
> 
> 4) Crossflow... I think it's just the way in which the water passes through the rad. Nothing important IIRC. But I thought that was only the EX series of radiators.... unless I am thinking of something else


As a first time water cooler also getting an XSPC kit with the D5 pump i can say that the pump is great. nice and quiet. weather it will pump through those blocks i have no idea. As for the fitting I didn't think they were too bulky. But i also didn't want to pay the expensive price for bitspower either. The compression fittings work well and don't look half bad. but yes if the size or looks bother you, obviously go for the bitspower.


----------



## AK-47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> 1) Barb + plastic clamps. IIRC the AX kits come with comp fittings. But XSPC comps arent that great, they're rather large. If you want comps, get Bitspower.
> 
> 2) D5 is amazing, it can easily handle that. Dunno if they have the PWM or Vario version in the kit though - either are great just they offer different ways to handle the speed. I wouldn't get the monsta 280, rad thickness doesn't do much past ~45-60mm. Rather get a longer rad.
> 
> 3) Looks. Also no chance of gunking up the loop if the nickle flakes off. (IMO love the look of copper, but hate the Raystorm block mounting mechanism - so gonna move to the EK Supreme Evo ASAP). Tip for mounting the block: do not attempt to mount it any other orientation than horizontal.
> 
> 4) Crossflow... I think it's just the way in which the water passes through the rad. Nothing important IIRC. But I thought that was only the EX series of radiators.... unless I am thinking of something else


thanx for the reply

1. this was the pic on performance pc. looks like compression to me


2. I got the PWM. was just $18 more than the vario so why not? The monsta is not set in stone. Another option could be a 30 mm thick 280 rad and 45-60 mm thick 240. still debating. monsta if I'm feeling lazy and don't feel like dealing with 2 extra rads

3. I don't think the copper looks nicer or anything. to each their own. is the gunking a legit issue on the non copper blocks?

4. The EX line of xs-pc seems to make crossflows. wasn't looking at rads that thin so didn't matter to me but curious
http://www.xs-pc.com/radiators-ex-series/ex360-crossflow-radiator


----------



## DeXel

1. All D5 kits come with XSPC compressions.

4. Crossflow basically is internet design of water flow that allows in and out ports located on opposite sides of a radiator.


----------



## Alex132

1) yeah those are comp fittings

2) awesome, I would recommend setting it up something like this http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/29/swiftech-mcp35x2-pump/5/

3) Not really. There have been some issues of nickel flaking off (old EK GPU WB)

4) Is that the rad you got? It's an EX rad. It just means it's a different way in which the water passes through the rad, most notable change is the placement of the in/out.


----------



## DeXel

XSPC doesn't use nickel. Raystorm is full copper or copper + acetal block. There is nothing to flake off. They use chrome plating on fittings and such.


----------



## Recr3ational

Has anyone used a Raystorm and an EK GPU block in parallel?


----------



## AK-47

I only ask about the crossflow in case I decide to go the 30 mm 280 rad route . But I just realized they only make it in the 240 and 360. still interesting to learn about it I guess.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Has anyone used a Raystorm and an EK GPU block in parallel?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Has anyone used a Raystorm and an EK GPU block in parallel?


I have used them in series. If that helps. Temps have a delta and that's where the temps stay. Hope that helps. No offense to XSPC. But EK makes on heck of a good GPU block.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Anyone know what exact LED kit i need to order to make my block glow red instead of the stock blue? there are both 3mm and 5mm twin kits listed on performance-pcs.com


----------



## outlaw8505

3mm


----------



## Layback Bear

I'm wanting this Full Cover GTX 770 Water-Block.
*
http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-gpu/razor-gtx-770*

I'm using a Asus GTX-770 Direct CU II OC.

It states this so I don't know if it will fit properly. I'm not sure because it states reference design only. I'm not really sure what reference design only means.
Thanks for any guidance received.
Quote:


> Supports GTX 770 cards (Nvidia reference design only) - See more at: http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-gpu/razor-gtx-770#sthash.exFxATNK.dpuf


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layback Bear*
> 
> I'm wanting this Full Cover GTX 770 Water-Block.
> *
> http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-gpu/razor-gtx-770*
> 
> I'm using a Asus GTX-770 Direct CU II OC.
> 
> It states this so I don't know if it will fit properly. I'm not sure because it states reference design only. I'm not really sure what reference design only means.
> Thanks for any guidance received.


Sorry, but it's not going to fit.

Here's XSPC GTX 770 compatibility list:
https://static.squarespace.com/static/51998404e4b0ef02d1bd9c2c/t/52957295e4b035cf40455f14/1385525909368/compatibility-gtx770.pdf (PDF)
From here: http://www.xs-pc.com/gpu-compatibility-list/

Here's a reference 770 PCB:



And here's the ASUS 770 DirectCU-II-OC (90YV04E1-M0NA00) PCB:



I know EK makes waterblocks for that card. For example:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc680-gtx-dcii-acetal-nickel.html
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc770-gtx-dcii-nickel.html


----------



## Layback Bear

Thank you very much Unicr0nhunter.

I have no idea how and where you found all that information.
So with what you have shown me this will work.

*
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc680-gtx-dcii-acetal-nickel.html*

I have a simple cpu loop using a XSPC 360 Dual pump water cooling/6 fans push/pull kit.
I don't need a gpu water block because the card never really gets hot I just want one. (73C test with Furmark).

To the best of your knowledge that GPU water block should work. Is that correct?
I have to go by others knowledge because I have none on GPU water blocks.

Thanks again for all your help.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layback Bear*
> 
> Thank you very much Unicr0nhunter.
> 
> I have no idea how and where you found all that information.
> So with what you have shown me this will work.
> 
> *
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc680-gtx-dcii-acetal-nickel.html*
> 
> I have a simple cpu loop using a XSPC 360 Dual pump water cooling/6 fans push/pull kit.
> I don't need a gpu water block because the card never really gets hot I just want one. (73C test with Furmark).
> 
> To the best of your knowledge that GPU water block should work. Is that correct?
> I have to go by others knowledge because I have none on GPU water blocks.
> 
> Thanks again for all your help.


I do believe your card is listed in the 'Check Compatibility List' link for that block.
http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109856406
Just make sure that's your model number shown there and you should be good to go.


----------



## Layback Bear

I'm not sure where the model number is. Would it be on the card itself?

I don't believe this is the model you are referring. I have inspected the box and don't see anything that indicates model number.
Asus GTX-770 Direct CU II OC.

I do see a white tag on the back plate. I would have to remove the card to see more; which I will do if need be.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layback Bear*
> 
> I'm not sure where the model number is. Would it be on the card itself?
> 
> I don't believe this is the model you are referring. I have inspected the box and don't see anything that indicates model number.
> Asus GTX-770 Direct CU II OC.
> 
> I do see a white tag on the back plate. I would have to remove the card to see more; which I will do if need be.


Looks to me like there's only two Asus GTX-770 Direct CU II OC GPUs, a 2GB (90YV04E1-M0NA00) and a 4GB version (90YV04E3-M0NA00), and both of them are listed as compatible with the EK-FC680 GTX DCII block. There's even a picture and PCB link next to each entry in the compatibility list for you to be able to check. The 2GB version even has been 'physically' checked by EK, meaning they have actually fit one on that card. That's good, as more often than not they are just confirmed as compatible by a 'visual' inspection of a picture of the PCB to match one that the card was designed for.


----------



## Layback Bear

I concur with your thoughts. It should work. I will check with my supplier and get one with some other things I'm going to get.

I don't know how to post pictures on this forum. What I working with is a Phanteks Primo, Asus X79 Sabertooth with a Intel 4820-E. It runs very cool.
I'm trying to learn enough and gather enough things to go to hard tubing and make this case look a lot less empty. I figured out the picture thing.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

What's the easiest way to drain the system? I can post pictures of my setup tomorrow.

I got the EX240 kit + 120 rad and GPU block.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

I just posted in the Water Cooling thread, so here are the photos:

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/72560#post_22821808


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> What's the easiest way to drain the system? I can post pictures of my setup tomorrow.
> 
> I got the EX240 kit + 120 rad and GPU block.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> I just posted in the Water Cooling thread, so here are the photos:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/72560#post_22821808
Click to expand...

Well, if I was going to add an easy way to drain that loop I'd change the in / out fittings on the GPU to have them both on top so I could add a mini-valve to one of the bottom ports so it would be at the lowest part of the loop. I'd also add a stop plug fitting to the mini-valve as a safeguard that I'd only remove prior to screwing in a short piece of hose on a barb fitting that I'd use to drain into a bucket/bottle. After opening the mini-valve to drain you'd need to crack open the fill port in your bay res to let air in so the fluid can flow out.

Excuse the cheesy photo editing but something like this ...


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, if I was going to add an easy way to drain that loop I'd change the in / out fittings on the GPU to have them both on top so I could add a mini-valve to one of the bottom ports so it would be at the lowest part of the loop. I'd also add a stop plug fitting to the mini-valve as a safeguard that I'd only remove prior to screwing in a short piece of hose on a barb fitting that I'd use to drain into a bucket/bottle.
> 
> Excuse the cheesy photo editing but something like this ...


This seems like a nice idea. I thought about draining before i installed my first loop so i just opted for a T fitting with a draing tube, Stop plug in the end of it. Works pretty good considering i just barely had enough space to hide the tube behind the mobo tray


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> This seems like a nice idea. I thought about drainging before i installed my first loop so i just opted for a T fitting with a draing tube, Stop plug in the end of it. Works pretty good considering i just barely had enough space to hide the tube behind the mobo tray


Every loop is different where would be best to have a drain and there are lots of different ways to go about it. That's just the best/cleanest option I could see for how WhitePrQjser's loop was already routed.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Every loop is different where would be best to have a drain and there are lots of different ways to go about it. That's just the best/cleanest option I could see for how WhitePrQjser's loop was already routed.


I agree that would be best. It would be too complicated to drain the loop and re cut some tubes just to add a T fitting. I like your idea of the drain valve on the bottom of the gpu. might look a little off depending on who you ask though.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, if I was going to add an easy way to drain that loop I'd change the in / out fittings on the GPU to have them both on top so I could add a mini-valve to one of the bottom ports so it would be at the lowest part of the loop. I'd also add a stop plug fitting to the mini-valve as a safeguard that I'd only remove prior to screwing in a short piece of hose on a barb fitting that I'd use to drain into a bucket/bottle. After opening the mini-valve to drain you'd need to crack open the fill port in your bay res to let air in so the fluid can flow out.
> 
> Excuse the cheesy photo editing but something like this ...


This seems like a really good idea. I just have one problem: I already filled my loop, as you can see. Then, in order to reposition the tubes, I'd need to drain the system anyway. How would I do that? Also, I just can't seem to get the hoses off any other way than slicing it open at the fitting. They're damn tight!


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> This seems like a really good idea. I just have one problem: I already filled my loop, as you can see. Then, in order to reposition the tubes, I'd need to drain the system anyway. How would I do that? Also, I just can't seem to get the hoses off any other way than slicing it open at the fitting. They're damn tight!


What I do when I don't have a drain port is take the cpu block off, put on top of a bucket. Then slowly turn the fitting until it comes loose. Then the water will slowly come out. Might have to shake the tubing a bit. Does the job not exactly efficient though.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> What I do when I don't have a drain port is take the cpu block off, put on top of a bucket. Then slowly turn the fitting until it comes loose. Then the water will slowly come out. Might have to shake the tubing a bit. Does the job not exactly efficient though.


I guess that's a possibility, thanks


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> I guess that's a possibility, thanks


Anytime.


----------



## crastakippers

Guys, could I ask for your opinions please.
I am currently looking for my first water cooled kit. I think I have almost settled on the XSPC Raystorm D5 EX240. This will be used to overclock my FX 8320. Its currently at 4.5GHZ. I want to try for 5.0GHz and don't want cooling to be the reason I don't get there.

Do you think this is a suitable kit? It is going in a Fractal R4 and I will have to mod the lower drive bay position to fit this 36mm rad. So I don't think I can very easily fit a bigger rad.

Later I want to add another slim rad (29mm) in the top of the case in order to cool the GPU. Again would this kit be able to handle that and would I have enough cooling?

Anything else I need to go with this kit like a drain or anything?

If there is a another kit you would suggest please let me know.

thank you for reading.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> Guys, could I ask for your opinions please.
> I am currently looking for my first water cooled kit. I think I have almost settled on the XSPC Raystorm D5 EX240. This will be used to overclock my FX 8320. Its currently at 4.5GHZ. I want to try for 5.0GHz and don't want cooling to be the reason I don't get there.
> 
> Do you think this is a suitable kit? It is going in a Fractal R4 and I will have to mod the lower drive bay position to fit this 36mm rad. So I don't think I can very easily fit a bigger rad.
> 
> Later I want to add another slim rad (29mm) in the top of the case in order to cool the GPU. Again would this kit be able to handle that and would I have enough cooling?
> 
> Anything else I need to go with this kit like a drain or anything?
> 
> If there is a another kit you would suggest please let me know.
> 
> thank you for reading.


I would highly recommend adding a t fitting and the appropriate hardware for at least a drain tube. if you want to spend the $20 on a valve this may look more clean. I put a drain tube off of a T fitting in my first loop with a plug in the end and i'm glad i did. So much easier then the alternative of removing the block just to drain the system.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> Guys, could I ask for your opinions please.
> I am currently looking for my first water cooled kit. I think I have almost settled on the XSPC Raystorm D5 EX240. This will be used to overclock my FX 8320. Its currently at 4.5GHZ. I want to try for 5.0GHz and don't want cooling to be the reason I don't get there.
> 
> Do you think this is a suitable kit? It is going in a Fractal R4 and I will have to mod the lower drive bay position to fit this 36mm rad. So I don't think I can very easily fit a bigger rad.
> 
> Later I want to add another slim rad (29mm) in the top of the case in order to cool the GPU. Again would this kit be able to handle that and would I have enough cooling?
> 
> Anything else I need to go with this kit like a drain or anything?
> 
> If there is a another kit you would suggest please let me know.
> 
> thank you for reading.


Good kit,
Before my D5 I was running the 720 pump and I was able to get my FX8350 to 4.9. Couldn't get to 5Ghz. ( bloody chip )

But as above stated it's a good idea to add something to make draining easier. Either a T fitting with a quick connect or a Ball valve, or both. Makes things so much easier.

Talking about D5, has anyone came up with a solution to stop the vibration noise?
I mean because the fact that I modded my 600T so much, the case rigidity has been affected. So the pump does give a slight noise. Some foam maybe?


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Good kit,
> Before my D5 I was running the 720 pump and I was able to get my FX8350 to 4.9. Couldn't get to 5Ghz. ( bloody chip )
> 
> But as above stated it's a good idea to add something to make draining easier. Either a T fitting with a quick connect or a Ball valve, or both. Makes things so much easier.
> 
> Talking about D5, has anyone came up with a solution to stop the vibration noise?
> I mean because the fact that I modded my 600T so much, the case rigidity has been affected. So the pump does give a slight noise. Some foam maybe?


Where is it mounted? bay combo or a tube res? I have had no vibrating issue with my bay res D5 combo.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Where is it mounted? bay combo or a tube res? I have had no vibrating issue with my bay res D5 combo.


Duh! Sorry dude, it's the D5 bay res combo.
Yeah it's actually a quiet pump but my case is basically a weak skeleton. If I pressed the side of the 5.25 bay towards the pump the noise stops. So it's my case that's causing it


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Duh! Sorry dude, it's the D5 bay res combo.
> Yeah it's actually a quiet pump but my case is basically a weak skeleton. If I pressed the side of the 5.25 bay towards the pump the noise stops. So it's my case that's causing it


Might be a bit ghetto but try putting a piece of electrical tape or 2 on the side of the bay res to tighten the fit. Nobody should see the sides anyway.

Electrical tape should be soft enough to provide some minor noise dampening, obviously not as good as rubber.


----------



## Alex132

Oddly enough I have the foam that Swiftech shipped it with, combined with an anti-vibration fan rubber mount thing and the pump running at 30% is completely silent.

Oh you have the combo.

Maybe just try reduce the speed? If it's PWM use something like speedfan.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Might be a bit ghetto but try putting a piece of electrical tape or 2 on the side of the bay res to tighten the fit. Nobody should see the sides anyway.


Well I tried things like that. I had to put some pressure to it, I doubt tape is going to hold.
I'm going to try some styrofoam and see if it dampens the noise.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Well I tried things like that. I had to put some pressure to it, I doubt tape is going to hold.
> I'm going to try some styrofoam and see if it dampens the noise.


Is it possible to try some plastic or rubber washers and crank the screws down?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Oddly enough I have the foam that Swiftech shipped it with, combined with an anti-vibration fan rubber mount thing and the pump running at 30% is completely silent.
> 
> Oh you have the combo.
> 
> Maybe just try reduce the speed? If it's PWM use something like speedfan.


The D5 pump has a physical switch to adjust the speed. even at full spin though it shouldn't be vibrating. mine doesn't


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Is it possible to try some plastic or rubber washers and crank the screws down?
> The D5 pump has a physical switch to adjust the speed. even at full spin though it shouldn't be vibrating. mine doesn't


When its at 2 its fine.
Like i said though. If i push down on the side of my 5.25 bay the noise stops.
Its my case that causes the noise not my pump. I've got some soft Styrofoam that I'm going to try to put between the pump and my bay.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> The D5 pump has a physical switch to adjust the speed. even at full spin though it shouldn't be vibrating. mine doesn't


D5 Vario has a switch, D5 PWM is obviously PWM controlled - but you can get a D5 varient without speed control.

If you have the D5 Vario I would suggest speed 1-2, PWM ~25-35%.

At 100% speed my D5 PWM makes a very, very high-pitched noise (~20khz+) and vibrates a bit. At 50% and below it is dead silent.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> D5 Vario has a switch, D5 PWM is obviously PWM controlled - but you can get a D5 varient without speed control.
> 
> If you have the D5 Vario I would suggest speed 1-2, PWM ~25-35%.
> 
> At 100% speed my D5 PWM makes a very, very high-pitched noise (~20khz+) and vibrates a bit. At 50% and below it is dead silent.


Ah thanks for reminding me of the variants









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> When its at 2 its fine.
> Like i said though. If i push down on the side of my 5.25 bay the noise stops.
> Its my case that causes the noise not my pump. I've got some soft Styrofoam that I'm going to try to put between the pump and my bay.


Styrofoam should work if you can cram it in there.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Ah thanks for reminding me of the variants
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Styrofoam should work if you can cram it in there.


Should work, I hate acrylic tubing, I'll have to drain the loop to sort things out. *sigh*


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Should work, I hate acrylic tubing, I'll have to drain the loop to sort things out. *sigh*


Isn't there a decent way to put a drain tube somewhere in there? even with acrylic tubing?


----------



## crastakippers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Good kit,
> Before my D5 I was running the 720 pump and I was able to get my FX8350 to 4.9. Couldn't get to 5Ghz. ( bloody chip )


What were your temps like? Did you fail to get to 5Ghz through temps or from stability?
You were using the Ex240 rad then? Let me know I want to order the kit today. lol!

Have a pint in Brixham for me.

Cheers.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> What were your temps like? Did you fail to get to 5Ghz through temps or from stability?
> You were using the Ex240 rad then? Let me know I want to order the kit today. lol!
> 
> Have a pint in Brixham for me.
> 
> Cheers.


I failed due to instability / inability to overclock properly. (As it was my first build) Temps were good as far as I could remember. Never higher than 50c as I get scared when AMD gets that high.

& yes that rad But I had an inferior pump to you.

If you're just OCing your cpu the kits fine, if you're adding gpus to it then you'll need more rads. Good luck bro.


----------



## crastakippers

OK thanks I'm going to order. If Slapton Sands is closer you can have the pint there. I miss Devon sometimes. lol


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> OK thanks I'm going to order. If Slapton Sands is closer you can have the pint there. I miss Devon sometimes. lol


Where are you buying it from mate?
I'm on the edge of Devon. Right next to Cornwall. So far away!


----------



## crastakippers

Frozen CPU in the US. I can't find it anywhere here in Canada. I lived for a couple of years in Devon. I from the North East.


----------



## skummm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> Frozen CPU in the US. I can't find it anywhere here in Canada. I lived for a couple of years in Devon. I from the North East.


Your username is making me crave smoked fish


----------



## crastakippers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skummm*
> 
> Your username is making me crave smoked fish


Unfortunately I am a long way from those Kippers.









EDIT: Just to keep this on track. I do have an XSPC Raystorm 750 with the AX 240 on its a way to me from the other side of Canada. I could not find a kit with the D5 available here and shipping from the US was a little much.


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> Unfortunately I am a long way from those Kippers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Just to keep this on track. I do have an XSPC Raystorm 750 with the AX 240 on its a way to me from the other side of Canada. I could not find a kit with the D5 available here and shipping from the US was a little much.


Thats what i did. only when i started adding gpus and more radiators i used the bay res unplugged the 750 and used the extra port to feed my pmp400s pump. Its working great. I love the way xspc is so versatile


----------



## crastakippers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> Thats what i did. only when i started adding gpus and more radiators i used the bay res unplugged the 750 and used the extra port to feed my pmp400s pump. Its working great. I love the way xspc is so versatile


Thanks for that information.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> Unfortunately I am a long way from those Kippers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Just to keep this on track. I do have an XSPC Raystorm 750 with the AX 240 on its a way to me from the other side of Canada. I could not find a kit with the D5 available here and shipping from the US was a little much.


D5 is the best I have 2 in mine.
Try
http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/

Try the site above. I used them in the US even though there in Germany with no issue. Item arrived in 2 days flat.


----------



## AK-47

why 2 D5s?

Also how do I go about a drain line?
I have a RX360 hit with Photon 270 and D5


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AK-47*
> 
> why 2 D5s?
> 
> Also how do I go about a drain line?
> I have a RX360 hit with Photon 270 and D5


I just used a T fitting with a plug in the end of the tube. can also do a ball valve if you dont want stray tubing.

EDIT: if you do go with a ball valve you could just fix a barb at the end, when its time to drain just shove a tube on and open the valve. simple.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AK-47*
> 
> why 2 D5s?
> 
> Also how do I go about a drain line?
> I have a RX360 hit with Photon 270 and D5


2x D5 is for high restriction loops. I have 3xR9 290x in parallel configuration-120.2 Monsta 80mm and a couple of other radiators. So water needs to go thru a lot of space. Pushes the water thru the block quicker. 1XD5 is enough for most applications with no problems. Theres a few people on here that need more then one pump for there set ups. Thanks


----------



## crastakippers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> D5 is the best I have 2 in mine.
> Try
> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/
> Try the site above. I used them in the US even though there in Germany with no issue. Item arrived in 2 days flat.


Cool!.


----------



## Recr3ational

I fixed my vibration noise issue. Just tied some paracord to make the 5.25 bay tighter..


----------



## XanderTheGoober

That works pretty slick. good work.


----------



## AK-47

What's the best 140 mm fan on the market at a reasonable price?
Kinda not too crazy about dropping $30 on a noctua


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AK-47*
> 
> What's the best 140 mm fan on the market at a reasonable price?
> Kinda not too crazy about dropping $30 on a noctua


Not sure about best but the xspc fans got great reviews compared to others. On my brothers rig he's running three and they do great and quiet.


----------



## AK-47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> Not sure about best but the xspc fans got great reviews compared to others. On my brothers rig he's running three and they do great and quiet.


Oh forgot to mention it has to be PWM
Bitfenix and b bears seem to make some decent fans
Anybody familiar with them?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AK-47*
> 
> Oh forgot to mention it has to be PWM
> Bitfenix and b bears seem to make some decent fans
> Anybody familiar with them?


http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100006519%2050060115%2040000573%20600035592%20600035623%20600035674&IsNodeId=1&Manufactory=60115&name=4%20Pin&SpeTabStoreType=1
http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/phenteks_f140/3.htm


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100006519%2050060115%2040000573%20600035592%20600035623%20600035674&IsNodeId=1&Manufactory=60115&name=4%20Pin&SpeTabStoreType=1
> http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/phenteks_f140/3.htm


Phanteks fans are one of the go-to 140mm fans for use on a rad these days, but it might be worth noting that there's only one Phanteks fan in that search result that's suitable for rad use. That's the PH-F140XP_BK. All the others are 140mm fans with 120mm mounting holes.


----------



## AK-47

aside from lower noise and lower price after MIR the Bitfenix Spectre Pro BFF-SPRO-P14025KK-RP is superior to the phantecs PH-F140XP_BK in every category.
I just can't find reviews on them or the Bgear B-PWM


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AK-47*
> 
> aside from lower noise and lower price after MIR the Bitfenix Spectre Pro BFF-SPRO-P14025KK-RP is superior to the phantecs PH-F140XP_BK in every category.
> I just can't find reviews on them or the Bgear B-PWM


If you can't find reviews then you're basing 'every category' on what? I sure hope you're not going by manufacturer provided stats. They are worse than meaningless when comparing different brands.

Unfortunately there hasn't been a lot of independent 140mm fan testing. This is one of the few recent ones that I know of ...

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html
Quote:


> In our last 120 mm fan roundup we lamented the fact that many of the best sounding fans faltered in our thermal test, posing our readership with a vexing question: Which is more important, acoustics or cooling performance? For this first batch of 140 mm fans, there is no such dilemma.
> 
> The Phanteks PH-F140HP/TS is the clear winner in every respect. It edged out the new Noctuas every step of the way, delivering the best overall results of any fan we've tested thus far. To top it off, it had cleanest, smoothest sound of all the new fans in this roundup. If we had to start from scratch, this might be our new reference model.


^ And that was Phanteks earlier model fan. Their newer SP/XP fans are even better.


----------



## alanQtrmaine

here are some in house oc.net test.

XSPC fan review compared to other fans

Older 2012 crazy amount of fans review

and one to maybe watch. not sure if results will show pressure ratings and compare


----------



## Ksireaper

Got my rig all up and running.

All XSPC. Raystorm Intel block.
2 x 480 rads.
D5/Photon 270 res combo.
XSPC GTX 780 waterblocks

Res is a little crooked, once i put it on i noticed it, and once its there, it is done, no removing it. So it stays til i can do a full break down of the computer and go through a lot of work and remove it.


----------



## Recr3ational

Hey guys i was was wondering


Whats with the colours?


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AK-47*
> 
> Oh forgot to mention it has to be PWM
> Bitfenix and b bears seem to make some decent fans
> Anybody familiar with them?


Why does nobody try Enermax? I know it's a german company, but their fans runs decently, have some nice features and are rather cheap

For your use why not try the Enermax T.B. Silence PWM 140mm?

Check out on Aquatuning.us, they have almost all models of Enermax available


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Why does nobody try Enermax? I know it's a german company, but their fans runs decently, have some nice features and are rather cheap
> 
> For your use why not try the Enermax T.B. Silence PWM 140mm?


I am running 4 enermax fans on my 240 rad. I like them.


----------



## kayan

I using Phanteks 140mm SP fans on my 280 rad. They are really top-notch in my opinion. The only possible downside is that they are white fins (positive for my color scheme), but seriously, they push lots of air and are amazingly quiet. I'm hoping they make some 120mm's as well.


----------



## pc-illiterate

there are very few 140mm fans good for rads. phanteks are the best taking top spot with performance:noise ratio.
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1346-page6.html


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Hey guys i was was wondering
> 
> 
> Whats with the colours?


Its inspection and balancing markers...
a bit like when you change wheels/tires on your car. But someone will probably go into extreme detail on it


----------



## adog12341

Hey guys, quick question. I'm looking to buy a raystorm ax360 photon 170 kit. Do you think the included rad would be enough for an overclocked 8350 and a 7970? I have the room (NZXT h440) and will expand with another 360 or 240, but unfortunately don't have the money.

Thanks!


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adog12341*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question. I'm looking to buy a raystorm ax360 photon 170 kit. Do you think the included rad would be enough for an overclocked 8350 and a 7970? I have the room (NZXT h440) and will expand with another 360 or 240, but unfortunately don't have the money.
> 
> Thanks!


Might be pushing it a little but if you don't overclock it should be fine i would think, at least for a little while.


----------



## adog12341

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Might be pushing it a little but if you don't overclock it should be fine i would think, at least for a little while.


Thanks, I guess I'll hold off on overclocking until I can afford another rad.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adog12341*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question. I'm looking to buy a raystorm ax360 photon 170 kit. Do you think the included rad would be enough for an overclocked 8350 and a 7970? I have the room (NZXT h440) and will expand with another 360 or 240, but unfortunately don't have the money.
> 
> Thanks!


youll be fine. temps might be only a little lower than air but will still be lower and quieter unless you use some loud ass fans at full speed. really, try it after you install. its the only way youll know for sure. everyone can guess all day long but its only guessing.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> youll be fine. temps might be only a little lower than air but will still be lower and quieter unless you use some loud ass fans at full speed. really, try it after you install. its the only way youll know for sure. everyone can guess all day long but its only guessing.


Couldn't agree more, only way to be sure of having enough cooling is to go overkill on the rad space and that often takes more money than brains.


----------



## adog12341

Thanks everyone! Can't wait to get this project underway.


----------



## taem

Is the black edition exactly the same as the regular acetal version, plus this aluminum mounting? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DRCQZFM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AELLOY6K8XB8X Or is there something else that's different? Because the regular acetal plus this is actually cheaper than the black edition, at least for me.


----------



## SteezyTN

Add me in







just purchased the XSPC RX360 kit with the Photon 170 reservior/pump combo. I also added an RX240, XSPC G1/4 Temp Sensior, and two EK 7/16 fittings (FrozenCPU was out of XSPC fittings). It all came to $370. Hopefully it's a couple times better than my H100i, and stay under 50c (4770k). Then sometime in December or January, I will add my two 780 6GB cards


----------



## Flame113

@SteezyTN: can you post a pic of your system?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flame113*
> 
> @SteezyTN: can you post a pic of your system?


I just purchased the kit online. So I won't actually have the parts till Friday or Saturday. Hopefully sooner. This is my first water cooling rig, and I want it to be perfect


----------



## pc-illiterate

steezy, is your 4770k delidded? what was your temp before? what is your ambient? and lastly, stay under 50*C doing what?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> steezy, is your 4770k delidded? what was your temp before? what is your ambient? and lastly, stay under 50*C doing what?


no it's not. With the H100i and the chip at 4.2 stock voltage, it hits about 55c to 65c depending on game. Ambient temp in my room is about 74F (not c). I used to have in clocked at 4.5 using 1.31 volts, but temps would hit like 85c depending on game. I play games


----------



## pc-illiterate

possible to run 4.2ghz at auto voltage and be under 50* but at 4.5g with 1.31v, nope wont happen. if you want low temps youll need to delid,


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> possible to run 4.2ghz at auto voltage and be under 50* but at 4.5g with 1.31v, nope wont happen. if you want low temps youll need to delid,


i already know I won't stay at 50c with 4.5.


----------



## orndorf77

I have a corsair air 540 case that has x2 drive bays rotated sideways will the xspc raystorm 750 work installed sideways inside my corsair air 540 ?


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I have a corsair air 540 case that has x2 drive bays rotated sideways will the xspc raystorm 750 work installed sideways inside my corsair air 540 ?


Might be a pain to initially fill and bleed. But once my system was filled and the fill cap tightened it didn't leak at all when i turned it sideways... Why not go with one of the tube res/pump combos to simplify things?


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Might be a pain to initially fill and bleed. But once my system was filled and the fill cap tightened it didn't leak at all when i turned it sideways... Why not go with one of the tube res/pump combos to simplify things?


my case is a corsair air 540 the only place I see people installing them on is on top of the power supply and I don't get how people secure them on top of it not to move ? you installed a raystorm 750 side ways before ?


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> my case is a corsair air 540 the only place I see people installing them on is on top of the power supply and I don't get how people secure them on top of it not to move ? you installed a raystorm 750 side ways before ?


i did not install it sideways, i have mine in an nzxt phantom and turned the case sideways for removing graphics cards, it did not leak. so theoretically if you had the res filled to the max and turned it sideways with everything tight it should be fine, but the initial bleeding is going to be a pain in that orientation.

the idea of the tube res is to put it in the front side of the case to display it with the rest of your equipment.

kinda like this > 
source > http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1802308

Not sure how well that would work for you though.

also as to secure a tube res on the psu, zipties and doublestick tape.


----------



## orndorf77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> i did not install it sideways, i have mine in an nzxt phantom and turned the case sideways for removing graphics cards, it did not leak. so theoretically if you had the res filled to the max and turned it sideways with everything tight it should be fine, but the initial bleeding is going to be a pain in that orientation.
> 
> the idea of the tube res is to put it in the front side of the case to display it with the rest of your equipment.
> 
> kinda like this >
> source > http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1802308
> 
> Not sure how well that would work for you though.
> 
> also as to secure a tube res on the psu, zipties and doublestick tape.


I just changed my order fro the xspc raystorm 750 to the ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 it cost me $130 $70 more then the xspc raystorm 750 . is the ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 a better performer then the xspc raystorm 750 ? I am going to mount it on top of my power supply and run the tubes threw the grommets of my corsair air 540 . will I have any problems doing it this way ?


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orndorf77*
> 
> I just changed my order fro the xspc raystorm 750 to the ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 it cost me $130 $70 more then the xspc raystorm 750 . is the ek ddc 3.25 x-res 100 a better performer then the xspc raystorm 750 ? I am going to mount it on top of my power supply and run the tubes threw the grommets of my corsair air 540 . will I have any problems doing it this way ?


As long as the side panel does not damage the tubes in anyway and the unit is secure i don't see any issues with that mounting location. Anyone else?


----------



## pc-illiterate

@orndorf77
have a look here. you can find all kinds of good info. even more if you want to mod that 'air'540 for some badassery water cooling
gleniu and his h2o 540


----------



## Muireadhach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> Please add me to the club. Finally done with the build... for now.


What case is that nice build so jealous


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muireadhach*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ViperSB1*
> 
> Please add me to the club. Finally done with the build... for now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What case is that nice build so jealous
Click to expand...

It's the 800D


----------



## rvcjew

I'm ready to Join.


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rvcjew*
> 
> I'm ready to Join.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice! Love the res. I want one so bad but I'm too cheap lol.


----------



## DirtMcGirt

So I'm ready to buy the 750 EX360 kit however I want the CPU block to be Red, not blue. Can someone tell me what I'll need to do to change the led color?


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtMcGirt*
> 
> So I'm ready to buy the 750 EX360 kit however I want the CPU block to be Red, not blue. Can someone tell me what I'll need to do to change the led color?


buy this

http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-Twin-Wired-Red-3mm-LEDs-with-4Pin-Black-30cm_25760.html


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtMcGirt*
> 
> So I'm ready to buy the 750 EX360 kit however I want the CPU block to be Red, not blue. Can someone tell me what I'll need to do to change the led color?


You just buy an LED (just like the blue one). The kit doesn't come with it "glued" together. You just replace it with a red one


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtMcGirt*
> 
> So I'm ready to buy the 750 EX360 kit however I want the CPU block to be Red, not blue. Can someone tell me what I'll need to do to change the led color?


here ya go,
http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Twin-3mm-LED-Wire/dp/B00795SNZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413822531&sr=8-1&keywords=xspc+red+led+3mm

check out rog-maximus in my sig to see how it looks.









make sure you get the 3 mm leds


----------



## DirtMcGirt

Thanks boys... just purchased the red 3mm cable.

NEXT QUESTION:

Now, I want to replace the fittings with compression fittings. This kit says it comes with 7/16" x 5/8" Tubing... just to be clear and so I don't screw up my orders I'll need to buy "G1/4 Thread 7/16" x 5/8" right, like these?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21379/ex-tub-2073/Bitspower_G14_Thread_716_ID_x_58_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_Black_Sparkle_BP-BSCPF-CC6.html?tl=g30c409s1203

Want to make sure I have everything ready to go. I'm running the Maximus VII Formula board and the plan is to utilize it's built in water cooling.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtMcGirt*
> 
> Thanks boys... just purchased the red 3mm cable.
> 
> NEXT QUESTION:
> 
> Now, I want to replace the fittings with compression fittings. This kit says it comes with 7/16" x 5/8" Tubing... just to be clear and so I don't screw up my orders I'll need to buy "G1/4 Thread 7/16" x 5/8" right, like these?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21379/ex-tub-2073/Bitspower_G14_Thread_716_ID_x_58_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_Black_Sparkle_BP-BSCPF-CC6.html?tl=g30c409s1203
> 
> Want to make sure I have everything ready to go. I'm running the Maximus VII Formula board and the plan is to utilize it's built in water cooling.


yes those would work but do you really want to pay almost $10 a fitting? I know bitspower is praised like crazy around here but i have had no trouble with my xspc fittings like these> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15530/ex-tub-1227/XSPC_G14_Thread_716_ID_x_58_OD_Low_Profile_Compression_Fitting_-_Chrome.html?tl=g30c409s1203


----------



## alanQtrmaine

I went with barb fittings and 1/2 I'd hose. I now regret not getting compression fittings. You can find decent deals on then here in oc.net marketplace under cooling.
With 7/16 hose and 1/2 barbs you won't have any issues other than getting the hose on the barbs.


----------



## DirtMcGirt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> yes those would work but do you really want to pay almost $10 a fitting? I know bitspower is praised like crazy around here but i have had no trouble with my xspc fittings like these> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15530/ex-tub-1227/XSPC_G14_Thread_716_ID_x_58_OD_Low_Profile_Compression_Fitting_-_Chrome.html?tl=g30c409s1203


Nope, don't want to pay $10 per fitting... was just using that as an example.


----------



## DirtMcGirt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> I went with barb fittings and 1/2 I'd hose. I now regret not getting compression fittings. You can find decent deals on then here in oc.net marketplace under cooling.
> With 7/16 hose and 1/2 barbs you won't have any issues other than getting the hose on the barbs.


Yea, that's why I just want to go with the compression fittings right off the bat. I know the kit comes with the barb ends and I'll still use those but only on the connections to and from the reservoir and to and from the radiator. The CPU Block and the Motherboard in/outs I want to use compression fittings with bends. Sucks tho, these 90 and 45 degree ones are like 15-20 bucks a piece!


----------



## kayan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtMcGirt*
> 
> Nope, don't want to pay $10 per fitting... was just using that as an example.


I have 10 of those same fittings that Xander linked, just a bigger size. They have been fantastic for 8 months now.

I also recommend them based on price too.


----------



## Ghostrider5666

I just got a XSPC Raystorm block and when I install the screws the part B tighten part doesn't tighten on two screws. What can I do?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostrider5666*
> 
> I just got a XSPC Raystorm block and when I install the screws the part B tighten part doesn't tighten on two screws. What can I do?


Do you mean this "part B tighten part"?



If so what's the problem? Are they just jammed so tight to the top knob you can't budge them? If so, unscrew the post from the backplate and use two sets of pliers to turn them apart, using rags or something similar between the knurled knobs and the pliers jaws to help keep from damaging them.

Or are you talking about something else?


----------



## Ghostrider5666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Do you mean this "part B tighten part"?
> 
> 
> 
> If so what's the problem? Are they just jammed so tight to the top knob you can't budge them? If so, unscrew the post from the backplate and use two sets of pliers to turn them apart, using rags or something similar between the knurled knobs and the pliers jaws to help keep from damaging them.
> 
> Or are you talking about something else?


Yes that part B when I try to tighten it down It doesn't get tight. So, I don't have equal pressure on one side. It's almost like the threads are not right.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostrider5666*
> 
> Yes that part B when I try to tighten it down It doesn't get tight. So, I don't have equal pressure on one side. It's almost like the threads are not right.


Assuming it's new might want to contact whatever retailer you bought it from to explain the issue and see if they can send you new posts or if you need to RMA it.

edit: I'm assuming that the 'part b' knob is the only thing turning but it never tightens down? If that's the case it sounds like the post is probably stripped. If the whole post is turning then it may be the backplate that's stripped &/or the lower threads on the post.


----------



## Ghostrider5666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Assuming it's new might want to contact whatever retailer you bought it from to explain the issue and see if they can send you new posts or if you need to RMA it.


I emailed XSPC. I guess I will email Frozen CPU too. I does have a very deep scratch on the copper block also.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostrider5666*
> 
> I emailed XSPC. I guess I will email Frozen CPU too.


Yeah you should always try the retailer first, especially if it's still within the 30 day return window (a lot longer than that in the EU). XSPC support should be your last resort. I like a lot of their products but their support can be hit & miss. Several times now I have been unable to ever even get a reply from them.

edit: FCPU, on the other hand, has easily been the best customer service I've ever dealt with. Call their number during their working hours for the best service as emails can take a lot longer, especially if they need more info and then you have to back & forth. Their # & hrs are listed at the top of every page.


----------



## Ghostrider5666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Assuming it's new might want to contact whatever retailer you bought it from to explain the issue and see if they can send you new posts or if you need to RMA it.
> 
> edit: I'm assuming that the 'part b' knob is the only thing turning but it never tightens down? If that's the case it sounds like the post is probably stripped. If the whole post is turning then it may be the backplate that's stripped &/or the lower threads on the post.


Yep, Just the knurled knobs never tighten down.


----------



## Ghostrider5666

It's funny that an XSPC Replacement Mounting Hardware kit is for sale on frozen cpu for $4.99.


----------



## MrFumbles91

Guys dont have time to read thru this thread. If you can, head over to the thread I just posted and help a brother out


----------



## MrFumbles91

http://www.overclock.net/t/1519951/need-help-quick-before-reassembling-pump#post_23029980


----------



## DirtMcGirt

Is anyone here running an XSPC cpu block with the Maximus Formula VI or VII mobo? I want to use 90 degree compression fittings to make a straight line with no bends in the hose between the Cross-Chill on the mobo with the cpu block. Wanted to see if the 90 degree in the cpu block lines up pretty much the same height as the 90 degree on the mobo?


----------



## LandonAaron

I just received my XSPC EX water cooling kit in the mail with the EX 420 radiator and upon unpacking it I'm a bit worried about the paint job on the radiator. This is my first true water cooling setup, so I am not sure if this is typical or not but neither of my all in one rads look like this. If you look at the radiator from straight on 90 degree angle with the fins it looks okay but if you tilt it in any direction you can clearly see that the fins have not been painted very well. Should I request an RMA for the rad? I purchased the $189 kit from frozencpu with a 750 x20 bay res pump/resovoir and the ex 420 radiator. Should I go ahead and spend $100 more to get the RX radiator and D5 pump while I'm at it? I plan to water cool the CPU, 1 GPU, and the motherboard when I upgrade to x97 here in a few months.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I just received my XSPC EX water cooling kit in the mail with the EX 420 radiator and upon unpacking it I'm a bit worried about the paint job on the radiator. This is my first true water cooling setup, so I am not sure if this is typical or not but neither of my all in one rads look like this. If you look at the radiator from straight on 90 degree angle with the fins it looks okay but if you tilt it in any direction you can clearly see that the fins have not been painted very well. Should I request an RMA for the rad? I purchased the $189 kit from frozencpu with a 750 x20 bay res pump/resovoir and the ex 420 radiator. Should I go ahead and spend $100 more to get the RX radiator and D5 pump while I'm at it? I plan to water cool the CPU, 1 GPU, and the motherboard when I upgrade to x97 here in a few months.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's supposed to look like that. A very thin coat is applied to the fins as to not detract from the cooling potential of them.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> It's supposed to look like that. A very thin coat is applied to the fins as to not detract from the cooling potential of them.


Okay, I kind of though that might be the case but neither of my all in one coolers look like that so I was a bit surprised. I already put in the RMA though, lol, asking if I could return the kit and upgrade to the D5, RX version, which I would like to do either way, I just don't want to pay a %20 restocking fee.







But if there is truly nothing wrong with the rad then I guess it just my own indecisiveness and penny pinching to blame.


----------



## SteezyTN

Add me in







my RX360 + Photon 170 kit came in today



































so dang happy. The RX is so dang big. Also ordered an RX240. But the photon 170 pump combo is a pure beauty!


----------



## LandonAaron

I want to replace my LED's for the water block and reservoir with some red one's. Anybody know where to find a LED led that will fit that isn't too expensive?


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I want to replace my LED's for the water block and reservoir with some red one's. Anybody know where to find a LED led that will fit that isn't too expensive?


3mm twin leds needed for the block.
http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Twin-3mm-LED-Wire/dp/B00795SNZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413927099&sr=8-1&keywords=xspc+3mm+red+led
i believe the reservoir is a 5mm led.
sorry could not find a link for the reservoir led...

EDIT: here ya go.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/XSPC-5mm-Sleeved-LED-Wire-Red-Great-for-LED-Reservoirs-Black-Sleeving-/121076476246?pt=US_Water_Cooling&hash=item1c30b86956

please note i have not fitted the reservoir led so i can't guarantee you 5mm will work but i am pretty sure it will


----------



## adog12341

Woot woot, just got my Photon kit in!







Can't wait to get the other small odds and ends ordered to get this build going.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adog12341*
> 
> Woot woot, just got my Photon kit in!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait to get the other small odds and ends ordered to get this build going.


I just made a post a few minutes ago







my photon and RX360 kit came in today too. I also added an extra RX240. Isn't the photon a beauty? I can't wait to install mine. Unfortunately I'm busy with school and work, so I can't install it till Thursday


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I just made a post a few minutes ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my photon and RX360 kit came in today too. I also added an extra RX240. Isn't the photon a beauty? I can't wait to install mine. Unfortunately I'm busy with school and work, so I can't install it till Thursday


Unless I am mistaken that is an AX rad not an RX. But I think the AX is even better than a RX so congrats. I believe the performance grade goes AX>RX>EX.

The identifying feature of the AX rads is the metal dividers between each fan, and its extra thickness. The RX is about the same thickness without the dividers, and the EX has no dividers and is thinner.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> 3mm twin leds needed for the block.
> http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Twin-3mm-LED-Wire/dp/B00795SNZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413927099&sr=8-1&keywords=xspc+3mm+red+led
> i believe the reservoir is a 5mm led.
> sorry could not find a link for the reservoir led...
> 
> EDIT: here ya go.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/XSPC-5mm-Sleeved-LED-Wire-Red-Great-for-LED-Reservoirs-Black-Sleeving-/121076476246?pt=US_Water_Cooling&hash=item1c30b86956
> 
> please note i have not fitted the reservoir led so i can't guarantee you 5mm will work but i am pretty sure it will


Ordered, and Ordered. Got the amazon one for free with my visa rewards points so thats pretty sweet. You sir are the man!


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Unless I am mistaken that is an AX rad not an RX. But I think the AX is even better than a RX so congrats. I believe the performance grade goes AX>RX>EX.
> 
> The identifying feature of the AX rads is the metal dividers between each fan, and its extra thickness. The RX is about the same thickness without the dividers, and the EX has no dividers and is thinner.


No, you are mistaken...Then RX is better than the AX. And I did not say his was an RX. I was just saying that I receieved my kit today as well.


----------



## VSG

Nah, the RX V3 beats out the AX at most fan speeds/airflow. You need a lot more airflow for the AX to come close and beat the RX.

AX is 40mm thick, RX V3 is 56mm thick and EX is about 35.5mm thick.

Edit:


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> The identifying feature of the AX rads is the metal dividers between each fan, and its extra thickness. The RX is about the same thickness without the dividers, and the EX has no dividers and is thinner.


The AX series is ~45 inches thick, and the RX series is ~60 inches


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nah, the RX V3 beats out the AX at most fan speeds/airflow. You need a lot more airflow for the AX to come close and beat the RX.
> 
> AX is 40mm thick, RX V3 is 56mm thick and EX is about 35.5mm thick.
> 
> Edit:


Got that right







so excited... Cannot wait to install it. But need to wait till thursday because of work and school. That photon is so sexy haha.


----------



## VSG

Except, you know, inches vs mm


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Except, you know, inches vs mm


meant mm lol. Inches would be pretty dang big haha


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Unless I am mistaken that is an AX rad not an RX. But I think the AX is even better than a RX so congrats. I believe the performance grade goes AX>RX>EX.
> 
> The identifying feature of the AX rads is the metal dividers between each fan, and its extra thickness. The RX is about the same thickness without the dividers, and the EX has no dividers and is thinner.


The AX is 40mm thick and the newest RX V3 are 56mm thick (I believe the V2 was 58.5mm thick and V1 was 63mm thick).

The RX series has always outperformed their AX and EX rads overall by quite a bit, and the newest RX V3 is almost inarguably the best all-around performing rad ever made at both low and high fan speeds.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1309645/bundymania-user-review-triple-radiator-360-roundup-with-22-rads/


Spoiler: Bundy's 22 rad roundup test results:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> [...] *Test-Results:*
> 
> Delta-T - Difference between air and water temperature. Lower = better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *^ Fan speed: 600 rpm.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *^ Fan speed: 800 rpm.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *^ Fan speed: 1200 rpm.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *^ Fan speed: 1500 rpm. - i used fans from Phobya* [...]






EDIT: lol, Ninja'd by geggeg VSG


----------



## adog12341

The casing is probably 40 or so mm, but the actual core is most likely closer to 35mm. It's quite recessed.









The photon sure is a beauty. Crystal clear and quite big! Can anybody tell me if it is supposed to turn freely from the bracket? I'm sure it's supposed to have a little play but mine spins very easily and comes close to slipping out of the top ring.

EDIT: Dimensions.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Ordered, and Ordered. Got the amazon one for free with my visa rewards points so thats pretty sweet. You sir are the man!


You can check out my sig rig for a preview of how the red leds will look in the raystorm


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> No, you are mistaken...Then RX is better than the AX. And I did not say his was an RX. I was just saying that I receieved my kit today as well.


Oh okay. I just assumed those pictures were of your own kit.


----------



## LandonAaron

Thanks for learning me on the AX RX rads everyone.


----------



## alanQtrmaine

I like my AX rads. they look great and with the stock fans being 1600rpm the .2 deg delta isn't enough for me to worry.

Plus I game with Headsets on.

If im watching a movie. Then fans go to low speed as performance isn't all that important then









Either way you cant loose. These are great kits.


----------



## SteezyTN

With the Photon 170 pump combo, the photos from the Internet do not show it any justice. Seeing it and handling it person is just.... AMAZING.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> With the Photon 170 pump combo, the photos from the Internet do not show it any justice. Seeing it and handling it person is just.... AMAZING.


Yeah I like my Photons. The glass is super thick and heavy duty feeling and just looks so much better than an acrylic res.

When you go to fill it make sure you tilt the case a good 20 degrees or more. Put a couple books under the feet of one end of your case. If you don't filling it can be a pain. It's one of the more common complaints about the Photon reservoirs, but if you tilt it enough it's not a big deal. The issue is that down inside the fill port, which is right over the top of the frosted glass inner tube, there are 4 oval-shaped holes the fluid must be able to pass through and at the same time the same amount of air must be allowed to escape. Trying to fill the res when it is straight up and down all of the holes quickly become covered in the incoming fluid so that no air can escape, thus no fluid will enter. By tilting it you will be directing the fluid towards the lower hole(s) and allowing air to escape from the higher one(s) at the same time.



I also have found it helps a lot if you use a fill bottle like this one:



http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&field-keywords=16oz+Wash+Squeeze+Bottle
http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=16oz+Wash+Squeeze+Bottle
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adog12341*
> 
> The photon sure is a beauty. Crystal clear and quite big! *Can anybody tell me if it is supposed to turn freely from the bracket?* I'm sure it's supposed to have a little play but mine spins very easily and comes close to slipping out of the top ring.


Yes the res is supposed to spin freely in the bracket so you can turn it whatever direction you want or need it to.


----------



## SteezyTN

First ever watercooling build.


----------



## MrFumbles91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> 
> 
> First ever watercooling build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dude! Dont turn that on! You forgot the tubing


----------



## LandonAaron

Well I just got my XSPC raystorm kit in the mail yesterday and put together a loop outside the case for testing purposes, but didn't have time to fill it with water and test it, so I will do that tonight. As far a prepping and flushing all I did was run hot water from the tap through the radiator and then drain it about 3 times, then poured distilled water and shook it and drained it about 3 times. I know alot of people say to fill it up with vinegar but the only vinegar I had was rice vinegar or apple cider vinegar, and wasn't really comfortable putting vinegar in there anyway. Is there anything else I need to do before installing the loop. Is there anything I need to do to flush the other components like the tubing, the water blocks and the pump/res?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I know alot of people say to fill it up with vinegar but the only vinegar I had was rice vinegar or apple cider vinegar, and wasn't really comfortable putting vinegar in there anyway. Is there anything else I need to do before installing the loop. Is there anything I need to do to flush the other components like the tubing, the water blocks and the pump/res?


skip the vinegar. more people say no than do yes.
rinse out your blocks well. sounds like you did good with your rads but you should do the blocks as well. rinse out your res...


----------



## LandonAaron

Does anyone know how many watts the XSPC XINRUILIAN RDM1425S 140mm fans use. I want to get a one of those little in line variable fan controllers for the 3 fans on my radiator but the controller is only rated for 12W max output, so I don't know if it will work with 3 fans connected to it. I can't get a real bay drive fan controller as I am all out of bay drives in my case.


----------



## Ghostrider5666

What's the recommended pressure for the waterblock? I don't think I installed it right because my temps are higher then my Cooler Master Seidon 240M. I'm running prime95 Small FFTs.


----------



## MrFumbles91

@LandonAaron

Amps multiplied by voltage produces your wattage.
Amperage i believe is generally located on the sticker of the fan


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah I like my Photons. The glass is super thick and heavy duty feeling and just looks so much better than an acrylic res.
> 
> When you go to fill it make sure you tilt the case a good 20 degrees or more. Put a couple books under the feet of one end of your case. If you don't filling it can be a pain. It's one of the more common complaints about the Photon reservoirs, but if you tilt it enough it's not a big deal. The issue is that down inside the fill port, which is right over the top of the frosted glass inner tube, there are 4 oval-shaped holes the fluid must be able to pass through and at the same time the same amount of air must be allowed to escape. Trying to fill the res when it is straight up and down all of the holes quickly become covered in the incoming fluid so that no air can escape, thus no fluid will enter. By tilting it you will be directing the fluid towards the lower hole(s) and allowing air to escape from the higher one(s) at the same time.
> 
> 
> 
> I also have found it helps a lot if you use a fill bottle like this one:
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&field-keywords=16oz+Wash+Squeeze+Bottle
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=16oz+Wash+Squeeze+Bottle
> .


Luckily, I had a big ol' baster lol. I just used that and it worked perfectly







I finally got everything installed, and I'm currently leak testing. But a few hours ago, I went ahead and purchased two 780 waterblocks + EK Parallel terminal + XSPC Red Tubing. This build is costing me a fortune at $3000, but I do love doing this stuff (and its my first time







).This is totally worth it


----------



## SteezyTN

So I have a 4770k, and now that I have the custom loop (WHICH I LOVE), I can finally reach 4.5 at 1.3v. Temps on my H100i hit at least 75-85c in games, and now the max ive seen in a hour of gaming is 62c. So temps have dropped at least 10-20c. But core #3 is 56c, and core #2 is 62c. That's a 6c difference. I used AS5, but are these temps okay? did I do a bad mount? 6c seems like a big difference to me


----------



## rvcjew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostrider5666*
> 
> What's the recommended pressure for the waterblock? I don't think I installed it right because my temps are higher then my Cooler Master Seidon 240M. I'm running prime95 Small FFTs.


did you bleed the air out after filling with just the pump running? You need to shake and tilt the case to get it all out.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk 2


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I have a 4770k, and now that I have the custom loop (WHICH I LOVE), I can finally reach 4.5 at 1.3v. Temps on my H100i hit at least 75-85c in games, and now the max ive seen in a hour of gaming is 62c. So temps have dropped at least 10-20c. But core #3 is 56c, and core #2 is 62c. That's a 6c difference. I used AS5, but are these temps okay? did I do a bad mount? 6c seems like a big difference to me


It's not uncommon to have a 6-10c difference in cores (my black sheep core on my 3770k is #3, it's gets utilized the most and gets the hottest)... But it can also be caused by thermal paste you apply, the stock intel thermal paste, or even a concave IHS (which would require lapping or delid to solve).... 4.5 @ 1.3 is kinda high for voltage, I get the same temps as you but @ 4.8 and 1.325v.... If redoing your thermal paste doesn't yield better results then you'd be looking at a delid (like I am right now to push 5ghz)

Ps: when OC'ing your cpu make sure you're also checking event viewer for WHEA errors... Those also show signs of instability. My 3770k was bench stable at 4.8 @ 1.3 but the WHEA errors in event viewer didn't stop until 1.325v


----------



## Ghostrider5666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rvcjew*
> 
> did you bleed the air out after filling with just the pump running? You need to shake and tilt the case to get it all out.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk 2


Ya, I ran the pump on and off for 24 hours and moved the case around until I didn't see anymore air bubbles.


----------



## rvcjew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostrider5666*
> 
> Ya, I ran the pump on and off for 24 hours and moved the case around until I didn't see anymore air bubbles.


When you turn it on does it make a any sound or air running through the loop at all? Could be bad equalization of pressure on your cpu block when attaching.


----------



## Ghostrider5666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostrider5666*
> 
> Ya, I ran the pump on and off for 24 hours and moved the case around until I didn't see anymore air bubbles.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rvcjew*
> 
> When you turn it on does it make a any sound or air running through the loop at all? Could be bad equalization of pressure on your cpu block when attaching.


It makes a buzzing noises.My 3770K is at 4.6GHz at 1.256V and core 0 is and 68C and all others are at 75C. I have my NF-F12 fans on my EX240, should I run the fans provided in the XSPC kit or repeat block installation?


----------



## rvcjew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostrider5666*
> 
> It makes a buzzing noises.


If it doesn't sound like this then I would look into block pressure next.

2014-10-21_124434.zip 105k .zip file


----------



## Ghostrider5666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rvcjew*
> 
> If it doesn't sound like this then I would look into block pressure next.
> 
> 2014-10-21_124434.zip 105k .zip file


Nope, What's ok block pressure? I have the screws on tightened down tight.


----------



## Bazerka

Have you checked the TIM? And also mashing the screws down many times doesn't help. I would just make sure your themal paste is properly applied and making good contact. I sorta have that same problem where one of my cores is much hotter than the other 3, so its probably a lack of TIM on that spot. But im just too lazy to take off the block and reapply (issues of using rigid tubing)


----------



## LandonAaron

I got my first ever custom loop installed this weekend am happy with the results. I was anxious to get it put together so I went ahead even though I was actually still waiting on a couple parts. I am going to replace the clear hose with some UV red primochill tubing, and add a "real" drain plug and a thermometer. I may add more fans for a push/pull config as well, since the radiator is mounted externally I might as well.

Here is my current drain plug:



Lol, its two plastic T fittings connected with a small length of tubing and then a piece of tubing connecting both ends of second T adapter. If you need a drain plug on the cheap this is the way to do it.

Here is the new one I will be using in its place:



I am not sure of where the best place to put the thermometer is though. Should I put it in the extra port on the reservoir or use it as the plug on the drain line?

Also I am replacing the T fitting I am using for the drain line with a Y fitting as I have a small kink in the line right before the radiator and I think the small 30 degree bend a Y adapter has will help alleviate that. I am not sure though what the best way to orientate the fitting would be.

Should I do it like this:



Or like this:



I feel like the second orientation would provide less restriction, but it will make the drain line point kind of upwards in the wrong direction. Will the first orientation seriously hamper flow or will it be negligible enough not to matter?

Also here is couple pics of the computadora


----------



## LandonAaron

When I first installed the loop I had leaks all over the place. The CPU block, the GPU block and the Radiator were all leaking. In each case it was because the barb fitting wasn't screwed in tightly enough. On each one I completely disconnected the tubing and re-screwed the fitting in as tightly as I was comfortable with, and then repressed the tubing over the barb, but I am scared as hell that they may come loose again and start leaking. I let it run 24 hours, but I am still nervous. I am going to replace the clear tubing this weekend, and I am thinking; would it be a good idea to twist the tubing like a half or full turn counter clockwise before pressing it onto the barb fitting? My thinking here is that if I do that the tubing will have some clockwise tension on it which should help to keep the barbs screwed in tightly.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> When I first installed the loop I had leaks all over the place. The CPU block, the GPU block and the Radiator were all leaking. In each case it was because the barb fitting wasn't screwed in tightly enough. On each one I completely disconnected the tubing and re-screwed the fitting in as tightly as I was comfortable with, and then repressed the tubing over the barb, but I am scared as hell that they may come loose again and start leaking. I let it run 24 hours, but I am still nervous. I am going to replace the clear tubing this weekend and I am thinking would it be a good idea to twist the tubing like a half or full turn counter clockwise before pressing it onto the barb fitting? My thinking here is that if I do that the tubing will have some clockwise tension on it which should help to keep the barbs screwed in tightly.


The barb fittings should have a notch in them to use a coin to secure tightly. If the barbs are secured tightly then it should not matter if you shove the tube on straight or while rotating clockwise, although rotating it while pushing it on certainly is not going to hurt anything.


----------



## pc-illiterate

@LandonAaron
use the spare port in your res. where are pointing to use it would be dead stale stagnant water.


----------



## Bazerka

@Landonaaron If you have about $20 - $30 to spend (which isn't that much tbh), id suggest grabbing a Quick disconnect fitting. They are awesome fittings which double both as drain ports, as well as fill ports and just overall are a much better solution than anything else. I use mine as both a fill and drain port cause its just easier than anything else.


Spoiler: My QDC in my build.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> @LandonAaron
> use the spare port in your res. where are pointing to use it would be dead stale stagnant water.


Thanks. I thought that may be the case. I wasn't sure how quickly water moved out of deadends like that, and I kind of wanted to put the thermometer after the blocks and before the radiator as I figured that part of the loop would see the largest delta, but yeah if that water just sits there without being circulated it won't tell me very much. I just hop the lead on the thermometer will reach from the bay res in the top of my case to the temp header on the bottom of the board. I may have to put my abysmal soldering skill to work.


----------



## pc-illiterate

what he has is a $7 fitting. it is at least as easy if not easier. i know because i have the same that will be going into my rebuild.



although if he does it wrong, he will get wet...
maybe it isnt exactly easier...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

And this is why I prefer inline male-female temp sensors over the stop plug type.
That way you can screw it in any rad/res/block port you want in your loop and then screw the tube's barb or compression fitting into it.
They just work better.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> And this is why I prefer inline male-female temp sensors over the stop plug type.
> That way you can screw it in any rad/res/block port you want in your loop and then screw the tube's barb or compression fitting into it.
> They just work better.


Yeah, and all my plug type ones have had their finish wear out to varying degrees irrespective of brand. In-line ones are still pristine despite having seen more action. Not sure what's up with that!


----------



## LandonAaron

I haven't seen the inline thermometers, I will have to check that out. Honestly I wasn't even looking to get a thermometer, I just happened to come across this one on Ebay for $5 and said why not.

Thinking about it now though, and this is true of all my fittings, I don't know what it is made out of and am wondering if it is safe to put in my system. I would like to avoid galvanic corrosion from mixing different metals. What are fittings generally made of, and how can you tell what a particular fitting is made of. This thermometer stop plug I have is matte black. I scratched through the paint on the wire side and it has a silver metal color beneath. Could that be aluminum? If it is, is it safe to use since its painted over? I bought all of my other fittings from frozencpu and performance pcs, so I assume those ones are made of safe materials, but really I have no idea what they are made of.


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I haven't seen the inline thermometers, I will have to check that out. Honestly I wasn't even looking to get a thermometer, I just happened to come across this one on Ebay for $5 and said why not.
> 
> Thinking about it now though, and this is true of all my fittings, I don't know what it is made out of and am wondering if it is safe to put in my system. I would like to avoid galvanic corrosion from mixing different metals. What are fittings generally made of, and how can you tell what a particular fitting is made of. This thermometer stop plug I have is matte black. I scratched through the paint on the wire side and it has a silver metal color beneath. Could that be aluminum? If it is, is it safe to use since its painted over? I bought all of my other fittings from frozencpu and performance pcs, so I assume those ones are made of safe materials, but really I have no idea what they are made of.


I actually asked an XSPC rep a few months ago and they said their fittings are made of brass. I believe the plating is chrome, but it could be nickel. I've been using the XSPC fittings for a few years and they have yet to show any sign of corrosion. Good stuff.


----------



## XSPC

They are chrome plated brass.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XSPC*
> 
> They are chrome plated brass.


I figured as much, thanks for the confirmation


----------



## pc-illiterate

the temp sensor he has isnt an xspc though. its a bitspower copy. its just the plug and lead.


----------



## LandonAaron

I have a question about draining the loop. If there is air in the return line can it cause the pump to run dry even when there is still water in the reservoir? I have an XSPC X20 750 bayres pump. When draining the system, I open my drain line and switch the pump on and off to help move the water out faster. I am worried about the pump running dry so I shut it off anytime I see air in the return line making its way to the pump/res, even though the reservoir still has quite a bit of water in it. I kind feel like as long as there is water in the reservoir the pump should still be wet, but whenever that air from the line enters the reservoir the pump starts to make a loud sound, so I shut it off just to be safe. So do I need to worry about that air in the return line causing the pump to run dry or can I just continuously run the pump until the water level in reservoir starts getting low?


----------



## Jflisk

Yes if there is air in the line and or radiators it can make the reservoir run dry. I don't think you killed the pump if that's the other question. So I would fill the reservoir back up after I know there's no leaks and try not to run the pump dry. Then bleed and enjoy. Air sounds like rocks being crunched. Until it is bleed.


----------



## SteezyTN

Hey all. I got a quick question. I just ordered my waterblocks and backplates for my EVGA GTX 780 6GB cards from Performance_PCS., but I completely forgot about the drain port for my loop. I have a 750D case, and at the bottom of the loop is an XSPC RX240 radiator. I was planning on using one of the extra G1/4 ports and using a piece of tubing to make a little drain port. Just a really cheap one.

How does this workout? please let me know...

*RX240 ---> XSPC 7/16 x 5/8 compression fitting ---> tubing ---> XSPC 7/16 x 5/8 compression fitting ---> XSPC G1/4 female to female compression fitting ---> XSPC plug (the one that came with the RX240)

*Does this work. I have the tubing, so all I would need is the two compression fittings, and the one female to female. And I was planning on using the plug that came with the RX240 to use as a stop plug. Is this possible?

Thanks all


----------



## pc-illiterate

yes but it can be messy as i stated last night.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Yes if there is air in the line and or radiators it can make the reservoir run dry. I don't think you killed the pump if that's the other question. So I would fill the reservoir back up after I know there's no leaks and try not to run the pump dry. Then bleed and enjoy. Air sounds like rocks being crunched. Until it is bleed.


The reservoir has plenty of water in it, I was just worried about the air coming in from the return line. Basically I was wondering if the pump pulls more from the reservoir directly or from the return line.


----------



## Layback Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Looks to me like there's only two Asus GTX-770 Direct CU II OC GPUs, a 2GB (90YV04E1-M0NA00) and a 4GB version (90YV04E3-M0NA00), and both of them are listed as compatible with the EK-FC680 GTX DCII block. There's even a picture and PCB link next to each entry in the compatibility list for you to be able to check. The 2GB version even has been 'physically' checked by EK, meaning they have actually fit one on that card. That's good, as more often than not they are just confirmed as compatible by a 'visual' inspection of a picture of the PCB to match one that the card was designed for.


Thank you for all your help. I got this one and it works like a charm. I also adapted the backing plate that came with the card to work.

*http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc680-gtx-dcii-acetal-nickel.html*

014.JPG 893k .JPG file


Newupdateofupdate.jpg 230k .jpg file


----------



## brandotip

Anyone here using their raystorm block AND an EK-Naked Ivy kit?? I've only seen 1 or 2 threads about this and they are all a little dated now.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Guess ill join the club, lol.


----------



## XEKong

I need to tear down and drain my system this weekend. I have the Raystorm Copper. What is the best orientation on 3770K, side by side, or up and down?


----------



## taem

So I've got one of these still in the box, that bit about turning the thumbscrews and making sure there's even pressure, how precise do you have to be?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> So I've got one of these still in the box, that bit about turning the thumbscrews and making sure there's even pressure, how precise do you have to be?


turn the thumbscrews the same amount of turns. i hope you already know to start each 1 and only give them about 1-1.5 full turns each until its 'tight enough' to make good contact. just dont overtighten. and be as precise as a 1/8 turn to each other.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I just received my XSPC EX water cooling kit in the mail with the EX 420 radiator and upon unpacking it I'm a bit worried about the paint job on the radiator. This is my first true water cooling setup, so I am not sure if this is typical or not but neither of my all in one rads look like this. If you look at the radiator from straight on 90 degree angle with the fins it looks okay but if you tilt it in any direction you can clearly see that the fins have not been painted very well. Should I request an RMA for the rad? I purchased the $189 kit from frozencpu with a 750 x20 bay res pump/resovoir and the ex 420 radiator. Should I go ahead and spend $100 more to get the RX radiator and D5 pump while I'm at it? I plan to water cool the CPU, 1 GPU, and the motherboard when I upgrade to x97 here in a few months.


Let me guess. You have Cats yes?


----------



## LandonAaron

Lol, yes I have a cat. I've considered replacing the chair but he would probably just scratch up the new one too, and I've gotten this one broken in just right.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> turn the thumbscrews the same amount of turns. i hope you already know to start each 1 and only give them about 1-1.5 full turns each until its 'tight enough' to make good contact. just dont overtighten. and be as precise as a 1/8 turn to each other.


Can you adjust those thumbscrews on the fly? That is to say, check temps, and tighten or loosen the screws and keep checking temps? Or does that mess up the paste?


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Can you adjust those thumbscrews on the fly? That is to say, check temps, and tighten or loosen the screws and keep checking temps? Or does that mess up the paste?


The idea behind turning the screws a small amount at a time in criss cross pattern is to have the block pressed down evenly across the IHS thereby evenly spreading the thermal paste across it. If you did it wrong initially, re-adjusting is unlikely to improve the situation, as the thermal paste will have likely already shifted to one side. However as long as entire surface of the IHS has at least some thermal paste on it, and there isn't too large of a delta between each processor core you are probably fine. You may want to remove the block and reapply thermal paste to see if you can shave off a few degrees but you probably aren't going to see a huge difference.

I know it is often suggested to just apply a pea sized amount of thermal past to the middle of the processor, and to just let the pressure from the heatsink spread the thermal past for you, but in my experience this doesn't always work. Often times the pressure won't be enough to press the thermal past all the way to the corners of the processor. I recently tried tried this method on my video card and processor and on both the thermal past didn't reach the corners. The processor still had good temp readings, but the video card would hit 94 degrees within a minute or two of benchmarking and start throttling. When I removed the heatsinks you could see that 95% of the surface was covered but the corners were still bare. Now I am back to my old method of just even spreading a thin layer over the entire surface.


----------



## SteezyTN

Just out of curiosity, can my drain port kink cause flow issues? If it will, I'll add a 90 degree fitting or something to curve it in my system


----------



## pc-illiterate

no steezy. not a chance of ever happening except when you drain...


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> no steezy. not a chance of ever happening except when you drain...


okay thanks. Finally got my loop together, but I didn't think I would run into an issue with that.


----------



## SteezyTN

Hey all, I have a quick question. I have an RX240 and RX360 cooling my 4770k, and two 6GB 780's. I have an XSPC temp sensor in the bottom RX240 that's cools the water coming from the 780's. The highest I've seen the temp was 40c. Should I add another radiator? Thinking about the EX240, but I'm not sure if it'll fit the front with how tall the rx240 is. Any ideas? I have a 750d case


----------



## pc-illiterate

was that 40*C water or gpu temp? what is your ambient? if that is water temp, i would add another rad. the case will probably need modded to fit a 240 in the front. it wouldnt be difficult.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> was that 40*C water or gpu temp? what is your ambient? if that is water temp, i would add another rad. the case will probably need modded to fit a 240 in the front. it wouldnt be difficult.


that's 40c water temp. Its about 74F in my house. It appears that I will need to switch the RX240 to the front, and add the EX240 to the bottom. I didn't want to do that because my drain port, but I will just add an XSPC "T" connector to the EX240.


----------



## SteezyTN

It's finally complete. All the watercooling parts came to about $700. Maybe around January I will add another radiator (EX240). Please, tell me what you all think about it.


----------



## taem

Ok is it me or is this a just a terrible mounting design? I don't understand why the posts don't push up through the motherboard from the back, and then you slide the screw holes of the block itself over those posts, and then tighten the bracket down. That's how other blocks install. Easy peasy.

Is there any other block that mounts like the raystorm, where you press the backplate against the mb via 4 microscopic doughnut shaped pieces of tape with zero sticking power, and then you flip the case over, the backplate promptly falls off, and then you have to tape the backplate on, and then hope the holes are aligned right while you try to screw in the posts from the other side, meanwhile you're sliding that block around trying to find those holes and paste gets all messed up?

Did you all find this just fine? You weren't annoyed and wondering what they were thinking?


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Ok is it me or is this a just a terrible mounting design? I don't understand why the posts don't push up through the motherboard from the back, and then you slide the screw holes of the block itself over those posts, and then tighten the bracket down. That's how other blocks install. Easy peasy.
> 
> Is there any other block that mounts like the raystorm, where you press the backplate against the mb via 4 microscopic doughnut shaped pieces of tape with zero sticking power, and then you flip the case over, the backplate promptly falls off, and then you have to tape the backplate on, and then hope the holes are aligned right while you try to screw in the posts from the other side, meanwhile you're sliding that block around trying to find those holes and paste gets all messed up?
> 
> Did you all find this just fine? You weren't annoyed and wondering what they were thinking?


I found mounting my Ray Storm easier than my EK Supremacy.

I just put masking tape on the back of the case


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> I found mounting my Ray Storm easier than my EK Supremacy.
> 
> I just put masking tape on the back of the case


I don't have experience with the supremacy. Supremacy evo is not finicky at all though. Not quite as sensible as koolance 380 (which uses the most logical hassle free method) but still a snap. What about the Supremacy did you find annoying?

The key thing for me is a mounting design where backplate and posts are already secured to the mb before you even pick up the block itself, and the posts serve as a guide that aligns the block to the CPU so it's just a matter of drop and tighten. Koolance does this, ek does this except the posts screw in from the top rather than pushing through the mb. Either way is fine.

Like most users here I suspect I'll be mounting this over and over, to determine the possible range of temps, best orientation, and then finding the final mount that hits the low end of the range you determined. The thought of doing that with the Raystorm, I'm irritated already before I've even started.


----------



## pc-illiterate

if the die runs side to side, ports on the raystorm are side to side. if die is up and down, ports run up and down.
swiftech apogee also mounts like the raystorm.


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Ok is it me or is this a just a terrible mounting design? I don't understand why the posts don't push up through the motherboard from the back, and then you slide the screw holes of the block itself over those posts, and then tighten the bracket down. That's how other blocks install. Easy peasy.
> 
> Is there any other block that mounts like the raystorm, where you press the backplate against the mb via 4 microscopic doughnut shaped pieces of tape with zero sticking power, and then you flip the case over, the backplate promptly falls off, and then you have to tape the backplate on, and then hope the holes are aligned right while you try to screw in the posts from the other side, meanwhile you're sliding that block around trying to find those holes and paste gets all messed up?
> 
> Did you all find this just fine? You weren't annoyed and wondering what they were thinking?


I had the exact same mounting sentiment as you. Those little sticker donuts made so little sense I ended up peeling them off thinking they were just a paper sticker.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Ok is it me or is this a just a terrible mounting design? I don't understand why the posts don't push up through the motherboard from the back, and then you slide the screw holes of the block itself over those posts, and then tighten the bracket down. That's how other blocks install. Easy peasy.
> 
> Is there any other block that mounts like the raystorm, where you press the backplate against the mb via 4 microscopic doughnut shaped pieces of tape with zero sticking power, and then you flip the case over, the backplate promptly falls off, and then you have to tape the backplate on, and then hope the holes are aligned right while you try to screw in the posts from the other side, meanwhile you're sliding that block around trying to find those holes and paste gets all messed up?
> 
> Did you all find this just fine? You weren't annoyed and wondering what they were thinking?


I hated it so much I changed to an EK Supremacy purely for ease of mounting (and saving my fingers) as well as looks.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> if the die runs side to side, ports on the raystorm are side to side. if die is up and down, ports run up and down.
> swiftech apogee also mounts like the raystorm.


I recall Martin saying the issue with 115x chips is less orientation of die, and more the curvature of your CPU and block.

Good to know about apogee, I won't ever buy another block with this sort of mounting. I'm not an enthusiast in terms of enjoying spending more time fiddling than should be necessary. Heatkiller is similar to raystorm mounting also. Heatkiller does have standoffs that secure the backplate, but in terms of installing the block itself, it works the same way, you have to hold the block while you screw the posts into the standoffs.

What strikes me is, isn't raystorm pretty much the most popular block right now, due to xspc's unbeatable kits? So there's a ton of first time water coolers who have to deal with this mounting.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> I hated it so much I changed to an EK Supremacy purely for ease of mounting (and saving my fingers) as well as looks.


I'm debating whether to return the raystorm. It's obviously a great performer, best price/perf, and I like the looks. But ease of mounting would be worth $20 to me. So maybe 380i. I really don't understand why not everyone uses that system, it's so logical.


----------



## SteezyTN

Why are all of you complaining about the mounting on the raytorm? You only mount it once.... You are all acting like you mount it ~100000 times a day. Just my two cents


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah I've had no issues w/ my Raystorm on the 4790k's 1150 mounting, also was uber easy mounting for my 8350. On the curvature issues all I did was rotate 90deg and bam better cooling


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Why are all of you complaining about the mounting on the raytorm? You only mount it once.... You are all acting like you mount it ~100000 times a day. Just my two cents


I go through a lot of mounts when I first get any sort of block to determine the performance range. Then you might have to mount a few times to hit the high end, every time you do have to remount. And then there's regular cleaning. It's enough to make ease of mounting matter to me. Hell I even resent the noctua fan clips for the d14 because the prolimatechs are much simpler and noctua fan clips aren't exactly hard to put on, just like seconds slower. But I resent those needless 10 seconds.


----------



## Flawless91

Hey quick question have any of you used Mayhems Pro cleaning system on a XSPC Raystorm EX240 kit? It says on the instruction of the cleaning system not to use on aluminum tube radiators. Is that radiator aluminum tube or copper tube? I'm not 100 percent but I think it is a copper tube rad, anyone know the facts?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flawless91*
> 
> Hey quick question have any of you used Mayhems Pro cleaning system on a XSPC Raystorm EX240 kit? It says on the instruction of the cleaning system not to use on aluminum tube radiators. Is that radiator aluminum tube or copper tube? I'm not 100 percent but I think it is a copper tube rad, anyone know the facts?


It's copper + brass.

Aluminium is a big no-no in watercooling anyway, and it will be rare to find aluminium parts now-a-days.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I recall Martin saying the issue with 115x chips is less orientation of die, and more the curvature of your CPU and block.


no, if you can change plates in your block then everyone will tell you which plate to use.
whichever direction your die runs is the way you want your block oriented to run the water over the die. sb runs left right you want coolant flowing left to right hence ports left and right. sb-e die runs up and down so you want coolant to flow up and down so, ports up and down. that is with any block. its why you see 90* rotation listed on 2011 block temp reviews.


----------



## DarthBaggins

which would explain the 90 turn I had to do to get proper cooling on my DC 1150 chip (die runs vertical)


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> no, if you can change plates in your block then everyone will tell you which plate to use.
> whichever direction your die runs is the way you want your block oriented to run the water over the die. sb runs left right you want coolant flowing left to right hence ports left and right. sb-e die runs up and down so you want coolant to flow up and down so, ports up and down. that is with any block. its why you see 90* rotation listed on 2011 block temp reviews.


This is what Martin said:
Quote:


> FYI, I found orientation preference typically has more to do with mechanical TIM contact and how the bases are bowed much more than fin/pin or nozzle arrangement.
> 
> The proof and result is always in looking at your TIM paste post block removal. Some blocks are bowed mostly in one direction while others are two dimensional bows. You want that thin TIM contact patch to align with core direction. Also larger cores like 2011 prefer less bowing than smaller. Example:
> 
> Raystorm copper for me did poorly on 2011 because the base is bowed too much.
> IMO, mechanical TIM contact and base bowing is key, not the nozzle or fin orientation.
> 
> Of coarse test best assumes the average user understands that AND willing to compromise performance over visual. Most will likely be clueless and install with the block name lettering so it's easy to read or if there are ram conflicts whichever way works.
> 
> The ideal methodology probably would take an average, or use the most likely used orientation, not necessarily the best but it's always debatable.
> 
> As mentioned above processor IHS and block sample variances can have more affect which we just can't test for in one test. You would need 10 block samples AND 10 processor samples to rule anything out which isn't possible in hobby level testing. Only the manufacturers have that sort of luxury to test sample variances out.
> 
> IMHO any block within 1 degree is statistically insignificant and equal.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1505481/summer-water-block-round-up-2014/0_50#post_22690232


----------



## pc-illiterate

As mentioned above processor IHS and block sample variances can have more affect which we just can't test for in one test. You would need 10 block samples AND 10 processor samples to rule anything out which isn't possible in hobby level testing. Only the manufacturers have that sort of luxury to test sample variances out.

those are the key words right there. ask any user of any cpu what works best with the raystorm.
btw, the raystorm is bowed with the ports. look at his picture.
/done


----------



## taem

I'm not arguing with you, take it up with Martin, I'm just relaying what he said, that there are other factors than nozzle and fin orientation. My takeaway is that I'm not going to take anything on faith, and will test orientations for myself, my chip, and my block. Maybe my block is bowed too who knows. Which takes us take back to why ease of mounting is important to me.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Mounting the Raystorm was super easy for me, but I've only used it on the 4930K's socket 2011 so had no use for the xspc backplate. The posts screw into my mobo, and the raystorm drops down on top of them, and then drop on the washers, springs, nuts, and tighten em up. Couldn't be much easier. Heck, I can unmount, clean off the TIM and remount in less than 5 min without feeling rushed.


----------



## taem

Hmm. Can you take the thumb nuts and thumb screws off the posts, screw the posts down, and then slip the block down over the bare posts, and then finally put the spring nut and screw back on to the posts?

Or do the screws and nuts not come off?

Or, even if they do come off, maybe the post is too thick at the top to slop the screw holes of the mounting plate over them?


----------



## Flawless91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> It's copper + brass.
> 
> Aluminium is a big no-no in watercooling anyway, and it will be rare to find aluminium parts now-a-days.


Thanks for the clarification!!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Hmm. Can you take the thumb nuts and thumb screws off the posts, screw the posts down, and then slip the block down over the bare posts, and then finally put the spring nut and screw back on to the posts?
> 
> Or do the screws and nuts not come off?
> 
> Or, even if they do come off, maybe the post is too thick at the top to slop the screw holes of the mounting plate over them?


With the 2011 socket the nuts are not on the posts. You screw the posts in, you slip the block over them, then you slip the washers & springs, nuts, and tighten em up.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> With the 2011 socket the nuts are not on the posts. You screw the posts in, you slip the block over them, then you slip the washers & springs, nuts, and tighten em up.


So I gathered. I'm assuming that the nuts and screws do not come off on the 115x posts, or that even if they do, the mounting plate would not fit over the posts at the top end, because if they did, there would be no reason for the stickers, but I just want confirmation.

More baffling than ever, that they would not use that same approach with the 115x mount for raystorm. For one thing you'd think from a manufacturing perspective they'd use the same posts screws nuts and springs across platform specific kits. No reason not to and cheaper and more efficient to do so.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

The 2011 socket uses a thicker / stronger stock M4 thread than 115x sockets do that is strong enough to hold the spring tension for the block, so doesn't need a backplate. With 115x socket the holes in the board are not large enough so require posts that go from a smaller diameter through the board and an M4 thread up top for the springs. It necessarily required different posts. No idea why they decided to include the nut on the end of the 115x posts to make it easier to put the block on / take it off other than the fact that it does look better that way.

That's really the only thing I don't much care for about my Raysorm on the 2011 socket is the threaded posts sticking up from the nuts. I've tried for a while to find black m4 acorn nuts for them that match to have more of the look of the 115x posts but came up empty.


----------



## taem

I've never used a 2011 board. That all makes sense, but couldn't a standoff serve? You're not putting so much pressure on this thing that going from thicker thread into a standoff in a thinner thread would cause a stability issue. In fact Heatkiller has it's posts going into standoffs I believe. This way they could use the same posts and all that goes on it, and 115x mounting would be as sensible as the 2011.

The aesthetics of an integral nut on top would never outweigh ease of mounting for me. Would you make that trade off, have the 2011 mounting be as fiddly as the 115x?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I've never used a 2011 board. That all makes sense, but couldn't a standoff serve? You're not putting so much pressure on this thing that going from thicker thread into a standoff in a thinner thread would cause a stability issue. In fact Heatkiller has it's posts going into standoffs I believe. This way they could use the same posts and all that goes on it, and 115x mounting would be as sensible as the 2011.
> *
> The aesthetics of an integral nut on top would never outweigh ease of mounting for me. Would you make that trade off, have the 2011 mounting be as fiddly as the 115x?*


lol, I probably would to tell the truth. I don't care a lot about getting the best possible mount or most awesome temps possible. I'm more about the aesthetics of the build and I've not yet ever seen the temps from any of my first mounts on any block affect my ability to OC whatever it is I'm cooling. 1st try good enough is always good enough for me.

edit: On that note, I could care less about the best possible cooling direction of the block. I always mount whatever way the ports on the block make the loop look cleanest / best to my eyes. I have never yet seen it make enough of a difference to matter. None of my overclocks would have been helped my saving a few degrees, but then again I don't spend a lot of time trying to max everything out. I get a decent stable 24/7 OC and call it done. Time to start planning the next build.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> lol, I probably would to tell the truth. I don't care a lot about getting the best possible mount or most awesome temps possible. I'm more about the aesthetics of the build and I've not yet ever seen the temps from any of my first mounts on any block affect my ability to OC whatever it is I'm cooling. 1st try good enough is always good enough for me.


Fair enough. Aesthetics is probably one of the strongest arguments in favor of water cooling anyway, and in a block that has led mounting built in, sacrificing ease of mounting for a better looking nut does make sense.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

so I have been advised a few times to flush my loop for 24 hours on initial setup, I have all used parts aside from the tubing and fittings, will be using an aluminum radiator from an aio unit.
First, should 24 hours be enough to flush this.
Second, is it possible to use the computer while the cleaning solution is running through the system. Theoretically shouldn't it be fine, assuming that it only has slightly different properties than actual coolant?


----------



## VSG

Why an aluminium rad at all in a loop with otherwise copper/nickel/brass components? Even the best of anti-corrosive agents only delay the process.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Why an aluminium rad at all in a loop with otherwise copper/nickel/brass components? Even the best of anti-corrosive agents only delay the process.


I will probably run it a month to see how it goes and end up swapping it for a 90mm rad to mount internally anyway. I know the dangers I am getting into. My main question was is there any danger in actually using the computer while the loop is flushing for the 24 hours?


----------



## VSG

What cleaning solution are you using?


----------



## SteezyTN

How often should I clean my loop? It's been up for about 2 weeks now, and the only thing I'm using is distilled water and biocide (2 drops per liter).

Also, will I have corrosion with the blocks I ordered? I have the XSPC raytorm block (the one that comes with the RX360+Photon kit), and have two EK-FC780 copper/acetal blocks. Was this a good choice between the materials?


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What cleaning solution are you using?


Was going to use a combo of vinegar and distilled water overnight for the first go then distilled water with a tiny amount of bleach in it for the second go round. probably finish up with some of the distilled water with sysprep in it.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> How often should I clean my loop? It's been up for about 2 weeks now, and the only thing I'm using is distilled water and biocide (2 drops per liter).
> 
> Also, will I have corrosion with the blocks I ordered? I have the XSPC raytorm block (the one that comes with the RX360+Photon kit), and have two EK-FC780 copper/acetal blocks. Was this a good choice between the materials?


You should be good. I'd still check out the blocks whenever doing maintenance to be sure.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Was going to use a combo of vinegar and distilled water overnight for the first go then distilled water with a tiny amount of bleach in it for the second go round. probably finish up with some of the distilled water with sysprep in it.


Sysprep did absolutely nothing for me, but hopefully your luck will be better. Depending on the conc of vinegar/bleach used, it may be too much for the blocks and fittings- especially if nickel plated. Most people use the vinegar treatment to clean up rads only.


----------



## SteezyTN

Can anyone help me with positive pressure for my case? I have a top 360 rad and a bottom 240. So I have 4 intake and 4 outtake. The front and bottom fans are intake, and the top and back are exhaust. Would it be best to make my top 360 rad intake? So 7 intake and 1 exhaust?


----------



## VSG

I assume you are doing this to minimize dust buildup? Have all the intake fans filtered, and have the top 360 in intake also. If all your primary components are watercooled then the whole hot air in the case is not really going to affect you.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You should be good. I'd still check out the blocks whenever doing maintenance to be sure.
> Sysprep did absolutely nothing for me, but hopefully your luck will be better. Depending on the conc of vinegar/bleach used, it may be too much for the blocks and fittings- especially if nickel plated. Most people use the vinegar treatment to clean up rads only.


believe me this rad needs the cleaning. and I am not doing a heavy concentration of either additive. sysprep is more of a final step to be sure the other chemicals (bleach and vinegar) are out of the system. The AIO rad will probably get replaced in a month or less so hopefully the preparations and the certain coolant mayhem recommended will prevent any corrosion in that time frame.

Just to be sure you think it would be fine to use while the system is flushing yes?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Can anyone help me with positive pressure for my case? I have a top 360 rad and a bottom 240. So I have 4 intake and 4 outtake. The front and bottom fans are intake, and the top and back are exhaust. Would it be best to make my top 360 rad intake? So 7 intake and 1 exhaust?


Roads need to be intake and other case fans set to exhaust for best results


----------



## VSG

I can't say for sure to be honest, never used vinegar/bleach in the entire loop myself. I assume you can't take the loop apart to just clean out the rad? Ask in the general watercooling thread also to see if others can chime in.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I can't say for sure to be honest, never used vinegar/bleach in the entire loop myself. I assume you can't take the loop apart to just clean out the rad? Ask in the general watercooling thread also to see if others can chime in.


I will probably just flush the rad ahead of time with the chemical cleaners for 24 hours itself due to it having some crap in it before. After that initial flush I will put the system together and flush it another 24 hours through all the new tubing and the cpu block.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> I will probably just flush the rad ahead of time with the chemical cleaners for 24 hours itself due to it having some crap in it before. After that initial flush I will put the system together and flush it another 24 hours through all the new tubing and the cpu block.


Vinegar and then baking soda to flush. Never bleach to harsh adheres to the metal. Vinegar= acid and baking soda= base and of course a run thru with distilled. Cancel each other out = Neutralized.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Vinegar and then baking soda to flush. Never bleach to harsh adheres to the metal. Vinegar= acid and baking soda= base and of course a run thru with distilled. Cancel each other out.


What concentrate of baking soda and vinegar?


----------



## LandonAaron

XanderTheGoober, please be sure to report back on what you find as far a corrosion goes using the AIO radiator. I know alot of people say not to use those rads because the are aluminum and will cause corrosion, but I kind of question this reasoning. Every AIO cooler I have seen has a copper water block. So I think the "Aluminum Radiator" probably just has aluminum fins and brass tubing, which wouldn't cause corrosion, or I guess its possible that the AIO coolers are using some sort of special anti corrosive agent in their coolant, or that the copper water block is only copper on the surface and aluminum on the side the water passes through. All I know is the AIO coolers can last a very long time, and don't seem to suffer from corrosion themselves and most seem to have copper block and aluminum rads.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> What concentrate of baking soda and vinegar?


Are we talking loop apart or just running thru rinse repeat. I usually run a couple of drops thru running loop for 1/2 hr to 45 min. Then take apart and drain. The problem is that vinegar will tear the seams up in the radiator if left in to long. This is documented in many post. If I have the loop apart I use full strength for 15 min rinse then use baking soda (will foam while neutralizing vinegar) rinse then distilled a couple of times thru with baking soda and distilled you don't want any residue left. Google loop vinegar rinse and baking soda. You will also find articles on what happens when bleach or vinegar is used for to long. Hope this helps


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Are we talking loop apart or just running thru rinse repeat. I usually run a couple of drops thru running loop for 1/2 hr to 45 min. Then take apart and drain. The problem is that vinegar will tear the seams up in the radiator if left in to long. This is documented in many post. If I have the loop apart I use full strength for 15 min rinse then use baking soda (will foam while neutralizing vinegar) rinse then distilled a couple of times thru with baking soda and distilled you don't want any residue left. Google loop vinegar rinse and baking soda. You will also find articles on what happens when bleach or vinegar is used for to long. Hope this helps


The rad is my main concern for flushing. I want to flush that thing out til it dang near sparkles on the inside, (figuratively speaking). I will be flushing the rad with the pump/res connected only. I will flush the system as a whole before put into daily use but won't be as vigorous as the rad flush.

maybe the 1, 2, 3, performed about twice or 3 times on the rad only will be good? Then just do the 15 minutes of vinegar, 15 minutes distilled water, 15 minutes baking soda mix, then 15 minutes distilled water will be good before daily use for the full loop?

EDIT: the 1,2,3, obviously being the steps here (15 minutes of vinegar, 15 minutes distilled water, 15 minutes baking soda mix, then 15 minutes distilled water)


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> XanderTheGoober, please be sure to report back on what you find as far a corrosion goes using the AIO radiator. I know alot of people say not to use those rads because the are aluminum and will cause corrosion, but I kind of question this reasoning. Every AIO cooler I have seen has a copper water block. So I think the "Aluminum Radiator" probably just has aluminum fins and brass tubing, which wouldn't cause corrosion, or I guess its possible that the AIO coolers are using some sort of special anti corrosive agent in their coolant, or that the copper water block is only copper on the surface and aluminum on the side the water passes through. All I know is the AIO coolers can last a very long time, and don't seem to suffer from corrosion themselves and most seem to have copper block and aluminum rads.


I beg to differ about the AIO lasting a long time. see my sig for the why you may not want to buy an AIO. will find pics and links of my experience in there. The thermaltake unit that is seen in one of the threads had really nasty coolant come out of it. I can only assume they use sime type of antifreeze or glychol mix, smelled horrid and looked even worse. As for the debris i believe that may have been a result of corrosion.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> The rad is my main concern for flushing. I want to flush that thing out til it dang near sparkles on the inside, (figuratively speaking). I will be flushing the rad with the pump/res connected only. I will flush the system as a whole before put into daily use but won't be as vigorous as the rad flush.
> 
> maybe the 1, 2, 3, performed about twice or 3 times on the rad only will be good? Then just do the 15 minutes of vinegar, 15 minutes distilled water, 15 minutes baking soda mix, then 15 minutes distilled water will be good before daily use for the full loop?
> 
> EDIT: the 1,2,3, obviously being the steps here (15 minutes of vinegar, 15 minutes distilled water, 15 minutes baking soda mix, then 15 minutes distilled water)


I can tell you when the baking soda stops foaming you should be able to do the distilled flush and be okay.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I can tell you when the baking soda stops foaming you should be able to do the distilled flush and be okay.


So for radiator only... vinegar to eat away any debris with its acidic properties, cleanse with distilled, baking soda flush to neutrilize the acid, the flush again with distilled. After that flush run warmed distilled water with sysprep through fully assembled loop for 24hours and it should be ready? Sorry for beating this thing to death but I did not have such unique variables in my first loop as all parts were brand spanking new.


----------



## taem

I dunno about vinegar overnight. Wouldn't 3 hours or so be enough?


----------



## Alastair

Hey guys. A quickie. This here roundup.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1505481/summer-water-block-round-up-2014/0_40

Says that it is best to mount your Raystorm block at 90 degrees counter clockwise.
Mine isn't mounted like that. Do I loose a lot performance from that?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> So for radiator only... vinegar to eat away any debris with its acidic properties, cleanse with distilled, baking soda flush to neutrilize the acid, the flush again with distilled. After that flush run warmed distilled water with sysprep through fully assembled loop for 24hours and it should be ready? Sorry for beating this thing to death but I did not have such unique variables in my first loop as all parts were brand spanking new.


You got it bingo not a problem. Also don't know who mentioned it never mix aluminum and copper or brass it starts galvanic corrosion

Pictures and information here for people that would care to mix aluminum with any other metal. DONT DO IT.

http://search.aol.com/aol/image?q=water+cooling+loop+galvanic+corrosion&v_t=searchbox.webhome&s_it=searchtabs


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> You got it bingo not a problem. Also don't know who mentioned it never mix aluminum and copper or brass it starts galvanic corrosion
> 
> Pictures and information here for people that would care to mix aluminum with any other metal. DONT DO IT.
> 
> http://search.aol.com/aol/image?q=water+cooling+loop+galvanic+corrosion&v_t=searchbox.webhome&s_it=searchtabs


this is also mentioned in my why you may not want to buy an AIO thread. I am well aware of this as I only plan on running a month. will keep a close eye on it as it is my hack mac and don't want to burn it up.

only true way to solve this is a heat exchanger that essentially keeps the aluminum radiator liquid loop physically seperate from the liquid in the copper loop. these things are hard to find and expensive last i checked


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> I beg to differ about the AIO lasting a long time. see my sig for the why you may not want to buy an AIO. will find pics and links of my experience in there. The thermaltake unit that is seen in one of the threads had really nasty coolant come out of it. I can only assume they use sime type of antifreeze or glychol mix, smelled horrid and looked even worse. As for the debris i believe that may have been a result of corrosion.


Seems your experience has been different from mine. I used a Corsair H50 for nearly 5 years in my system, and the Arctic Cooling Accelero Hybrid for the GPU for about 2-3 years, and they both served me well. I haven't opened either one of them up though, so I don't know what their innards look like. Now that I have a custom loop though, I don't think I would ever go back for my personal rig. Though when I build my girlfriends computer I will most likely use an AIO for it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

The H80 I bought used has been a great AiO cooler but yeah some companies' AiO's are horrid


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Well I did the math last night for my XT-1 coolant I will be mixing for the loop using the aluminum rad, I will be using 20 ounces of distilled water for the whole 150ml bottle of concentrate for roughly a 19-20% concentrate and 80% distilled water. That's a heavy concentration


----------



## AK-47

Hey guys. a Little help please. first time full custom loop.
I can't tell if this normal or if my water is flowing at all the only activity I see is from the top long tube.
Everything else doesn't seem to be flowing at all. not that my eyes can tell anyway


----------



## pc-illiterate

yeah, i hate the photon. with no movement in the res it isnt possible to tell if you have circulation in your loop or not. most of the water in the res never gets circulated either. it just stays stagnant.


----------



## LandonAaron

When you first fill the loop there should still be alot of air in it, and when you start it up you should see alot of activity. Once the system is fully bleed you won't see anything except for maybe some very tiny air bubbles in the reservoir. Put your ear up to the pump you should be able to hear it pumping. If you still can't tell if it is working or not you can either just try booting the computer and checking temps (even if it isn't working your computer shouldn't overheat just by booting into BIOS or windows to check temps. Or you can disconnect part of the loop, put the out going line into a milk jug briefly turn on the pump and see if it pushes some water out. Just be carefull not to run the pump dry because once you disconnect part of the loop it will start draining pretty quickly. Try disconnecting a segment at the top of the case so that all the water doesn't drain out just from gravity alone.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I saw flow in the beginning of the vid seeing the small air bubbles in the tubing leaving the rad.
Then saw air lead back into the rad.


----------



## LandonAaron

Yeah I just rewatched the video in full screen in HD, and now I definitley see bubbles moving through the line. Yeah he's good to go. Just need to remember that this is the only time you will see these bubbles. After running for an hour or so all the bubbles will be gone if it is working correctly. If bubbles show back up, then you should start looking for a leak pronto.


----------



## pc-illiterate

i didnt see any bubbles go into the res. the pump is working but the loop is airlocked at the front rad im betting.
you need to get the case leaned towards its back so you can get those bubbles out and into the res. you should have done this already. you would know the pump is working.


----------



## LandonAaron

Wanted to share some pics of my build:


----------



## AK-47

So I took a leap of faith and booted the PC.
Everything seems to be working fine.
Temps are great


----------



## LandonAaron

Awesome now its time to pump in all those volts you always wished you could, and see what OC you can get!


----------



## XanderTheGoober

So my second loop was all assembled and i realized the used res pump combo had a very small slow leak where the cable runs into power the pump. Fixed that up with some plumbing tape and no more leaks. but now the pump is making a grinding noise. Dang it anyway. Sick of used junk. does anyone have any quick things to try on this thing before i just say screw it and order brand new XSPC X20 res pump combo?


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> So my second loop was all assembled and i realized the used res pump combo had a very small slow leak where the cable runs into power the pump. Fixed that up with some plumbing tape and no more leaks. but now the pump is making a grinding noise. Dang it anyway. Sick of used junk. does anyone have any quick things to try on this thing before i just say screw it and order brand new XSPC X20 res pump combo?


Are you sure the loop is completely bled. My pump make grinding noise until all of the air is completely out of the loop and then it goes silent.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Are you sure the loop is completely bled. My pump make grinding noise until all of the air is completely out of the loop and then it goes silent.


it was making a slight noise before but nothing this loud. before i know it was slightly more noticable while air was still in it but not like this.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> So my second loop was all assembled and i realized the used res pump combo had a very small slow leak where the cable runs into power the pump. Fixed that up with some plumbing tape and no more leaks. but now the pump is making a grinding noise. Dang it anyway. Sick of used junk. does anyone have any quick things to try on this thing before i just say screw it and order brand new XSPC X20 res pump combo?


its not any better buying new junk. are you positive its completely bled? it shouldnt be louder full of water and bled.


----------



## Sem

Can someone help me find some replacement thumb nuts for the Raystorm

one of mine has lost the threads so i am unable to tighten it all the way affecting my temps

using a 2011 mounting kit

what kind and size of thumb nuts do i need?

thanks


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> Can someone help me find some replacement thumb nuts for the Raystorm
> 
> one of mine has lost the threads so i am unable to tighten it all the way affecting my temps
> 
> using a 2011 mounting kit
> 
> what kind and size of thumb nuts do i need?
> 
> thanks


If you were in US i would say I will ship them to you because I only used the 115x mounts for me. I have the backplate and at least 3 thumb screws to the 2011 kit including springs.

The other alternative is go down to your local hardware store and pick up a bolt and a nut or two to secure it down. Might not look the greatest though.


----------



## LandonAaron

The mounting plates use the same thread as radiator screws. I know cause my block shipped with two sets of screws and I am using the second set on my radiator. I wonder if you can can just use some long radiator screws. I am not sure though if the threading goes all the through the back plate to where the screw can pass through the backplate or if it is just partially threaded. If the screw can go all the way through I see no reason why some long radiator screws shouldn't work.


----------



## js593

I was curious if anyone has done any modifications to make this block any better. I find myself having to clean this sucker once every 6 months. ALso, has anyone modified it for higher flow rate? I notice that using this block with the fin inside to spread the water over the core, seems to slow down the rate of flow.

Thanks!


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> I was curious if anyone has done any modifications to make this block any better. I find myself having to clean this sucker once every 6 months. ALso, has anyone modified it for higher flow rate? I notice that using this block with the fin inside to spread the water over the core, seems to slow down the rate of flow.
> 
> Thanks!


The flowrate of the Raystorm is very high compared to other blocks, this can be good in high-restriction environments - or sometimes even a little bit bad in low-restriction ones. Maybe that's why I am getting better temps with my EK block than I did with my Raystorm.

Either way, mods aren't needed to the internals of this block - but the bloody awful mounting mechanism!


----------



## js593

Very true on the mounting. Longer mounting bolts would be fantastic, as the ones supplied really suck. Other then that, i have no real complaints. Just remounted mine last night after some water cooling issues. Was also debating on painting the thin metal sheet that layers on the acrylic. to make it pop a little more with my board.


----------



## VSG

So many of you guys complaining about mounting mechanisms! I have recently worked with >10 different CPU cooler/block mounting systems and the XSPC one is not the worst. Once you figure it out it is easy, while there are some that lead to actual hair tearing on my part.


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So many of you guys complaining about mounting mechanisms! I have recently worked with >10 different CPU cooler/block mounting systems and the XSPC one is not the worst. Once you figure it out it is easy, while there are some that lead to actual hair tearing on my part.


If there's so many of us that think the same thing, maybe its true







I find the retaining springs to be really stiff, pushing the backing plate to the motherboard, while the board is in the case tends to be a pretty tough thing to do in a case where you have less then a fist full of room to work with.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So many of you guys complaining about mounting mechanisms! I have recently worked with >10 different CPU cooler/block mounting systems and the XSPC one is not the worst. Once you figure it out it is easy, while there are some that lead to actual hair tearing on my part.


I have never had any problems with the mounting. Yeah, it can be a pain, but why complain? Who seriously remounts it every day? Hha


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> If there's so many of us that think the same thing, maybe its true
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find the retaining springs to be really stiff, pushing the backing plate to the motherboard, while the board is in the case tends to be a pretty tough thing to do in a case where you have less then a fist full of room to work with.


I always put a block on the motherboard first and then install the board in the case. I am with you- mounting could be better, and you guys should let Paul know in case there's still time to revise this for the upcoming Raystorm Pro water block.


----------



## NoodleGTS

The mounting mechanism on this thing is so bad! I actually wanted to stab myself in the eyes the other day.

Couldn't they make the screws just like 1-2mm longer since the washers are actually what pushes down on the cooler?? Have this on a Z87X-OC and it's infuriating to mount!

Otherwise it looks cool and does a decent job cooling my CPU.

EDIT - the original mount wasn't so bad.. it's RE-mounting it that was a nightmare. The springs are so stiff and the screws too short, so it keeps pushing the back plate off. I had to tape the back place in place just so I could get it not to fall off trying to screw the cooler in.

With a large case like a Phantom 820 it's hard to hold both sides while you do this...


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I always put a block on the motherboard first and then install the board in the case. I am with you- mounting could be better, and you guys should let Paul know in case there's still time to revise this for the upcoming Raystorm Pro water block.


I really wish i could do that method. For me to pull the board, i would need to take every little thing out the case. My god damn bright idea of a watercooled prodigy. I think it was my worst idea to date.... What's pauls username? Id be inclined to send him a PM to see if they are able to revise the hold down with slightly longer screws (tops 2-3 MM longer.) Keep in mind, with mounting it to the cpu, not every board is going to be the same distance from the backing plate to the surface of the hold down. Some boards also carry a non-removable rear plate for the CPU (which in my case applies unfortunately) which makes it even harder to lock it down properly. That extra little bit of thread would make the world of a difference when locking it down


----------



## VSG

http://www.xs-pc.com/support/

Just saying
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> I really wish i could do that method. For me to pull the board, i would need to take every little thing out the case. My god damn bright idea of a watercooled prodigy. I think it was my worst idea to date.... What's pauls username? Id be inclined to send him a PM to see if they are able to revise the hold down with slightly longer screws (tops 2-3 MM longer.) Keep in mind, with mounting it to the cpu, not every board is going to be the same distance from the backing plate to the surface of the hold down. Some boards also carry a non-removable rear plate for the CPU (which in my case applies unfortunately) which makes it even harder to lock it down properly. That extra little bit of thread would make the world of a difference when locking it down


I think he's here as XSPC but probably not the best idea since he may not be active here.


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/support/
> 
> Just saying
> I think he's here as XSPC but probably not the best idea since he may not be active here.


Shot them an email, curious to see what will happen. Thanks!


----------



## Alex132

Honestly, having the screw threads go in first and then the block, and then the nuts is by far the best idea for a mounting mechanism. I think the 2011 mounting is like that, but it should be on all socket types.


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Honestly, having the screw threads go in first and then the block, and then the nuts is by far the best idea for a mounting mechanism. I think the 2011 mounting is like that, but it should be on all socket types.


I totally agree, doing it this way would also guarantee that the block wouldn't move as much.


----------



## NoodleGTS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> I totally agree, doing it this way would also guarantee that the block wouldn't move as much.


Agreed. Hardest part is making sure that your TIM application isn't FUBAR by the time the block is actually mounted.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoodleGTS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> I totally agree, doing it this way would also guarantee that the block wouldn't move as much.
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed. Hardest part is making sure that your TIM application isn't FUBAR by the time the block is actually mounted.
Click to expand...

I remember giving up and applying it, then looking at it and just slapping the block back on


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> [...] What's pauls username? Id be inclined to send him a PM [...]
> 
> 
> 
> I think he's here as XSPC but probably not the best idea since he may not be active here.
Click to expand...

Yeah his username here is XSPC.

http://www.overclock.net/u/61913/xspc

His profile page usually shows that he's been on the site recently (currently says "Last Online: 2 hours, 18 minutes ago"), though he doesn't post very often. He might respond to a PM.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah his username here is XSPC.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/u/61913/xspc
> 
> His profile page usually shows that he's been on the site recently (currently says "Last Online: 2 hours, 18 minutes ago"), though he doesn't post very often. He might respond to a PM.


Paul isn't any help. I emailed him about my photon, and he just transferred me back to flora who was no help. She almost had no knowledge about the product.


----------



## Alex132

@XSPC
I know at least of one other member that strongly dislikes and moved away from a Raystorm block because of its mounting mechanism







And a fair amount of you guys here also mentioning your dislike for it. It's a pity no one mentions it in reviews.

Having a mounting mechanism like EKs would be awesome. Also maybe shy away from Acrylic mounting base? It makes me wonder if under time the acrylic could warp and thus apply less pressure to the CPU.


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> @XSPC
> I know at least of one other member that strongly dislikes and moved away from a Raystorm block because of its mounting mechanism
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a fair amount of you guys here also mentioning your dislike for it. It's a pity no one mentions it in reviews.
> 
> Having a mounting mechanism like EKs would be awesome. Also maybe shy away from Acrylic mounting base? It makes me wonder if under time the acrylic could warp and thus apply less pressure to the CPU.


I actually went shopping today, and i'm thinking of picking up the Swifttech CPU block. Looks pretty slick!


----------



## Agenesis

Anyone know the length of the LGA2011 mounting screws for the raystorm? My old Raystorm didn't come with any and I was thinking maybe I can use my RASA screws instead if they're not too long or too short. Thanks a bunch!


----------



## lhikary

any way to mod the razor gtx 980 to white leds instead of blue?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lhikary*
> 
> any way to mod the razor gtx 980 to white leds instead of blue?


Sure. They are just 3mm leds.

http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Twin-3mm-Wire-White/dp/B00A8QFOGG
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10670/ele-652/Tailed_Dual_3mm_LED_w_4-Pin_Pass-Thru_Connector_-_White_LED-3D2-W.html?tl=g6c455s1224


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> Anyone know the length of the LGA2011 mounting screws for the raystorm? My old Raystorm didn't come with any and I was thinking maybe I can use my RASA screws instead if they're not too long or too short. Thanks a bunch!


I'm also curious about this.

My kit came with the 2011 mounting hardware as well as the 1155//1156 stuff. I'm digging but i cant find the information applicable to it. If it fit, that would be amazing!


----------



## Alex132

High chance that it's M4 - my EK kit is M4, and they fit to the XSPC bracket... I think









My Raystorm is currently in the mail to my gf, so I can't confirm it sadly.


----------



## Agenesis

Yeah 1366 and 2011 shares the same thread size - m4. Given the right length you can use any mechanism from any waterblock on lga 2011.

What I was asking was the length for those 4 screws, or the fixing set.


----------



## js593

I will send you the specs on the screws for the 2011 setup when i get home. I got everything in a little box ready to go if this works. (if it does, im gonna jump and scream like a little girl. It was so damn hard to get it reconnected again.


----------



## Recr3ational

Guys,
You know the Raystorm 720 watercooling kit comes with 1/2 barbs and smaller tubing? Does anyone know the size of that tubing? I want a tighter fit on my barbs.

Thanks


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Guys,
> You know the Raystorm 720 watercooling kit comes with 1/2 barbs and smaller tubing? Does anyone know the size of that tubing? I want a tighter fit on my barbs.
> 
> Thanks


1/2 ID 3/4 OD barbs and 7/16 ID 5/8 OD tubing.
The XSPC stock tubing is pretty bad from what I can remember, yellows rapidly and is very stiff.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> 1/2 ID 3/4 OD barbs and 7/16 ID 5/8 OD tubing.
> The XSPC stock tubing is pretty bad from what I can remember, yellows rapidly and is very stiff.


Yeah it was. Ill just get beter ones but thanks. REp+


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> 1/2 ID 3/4 OD barbs and 7/16 ID 5/8 OD tubing.
> The XSPC stock tubing is pretty bad from what I can remember, yellows rapidly and is very stiff.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah it was. Ill just get beter ones but thanks. REp+
Click to expand...

If you're insistent on 7/16 5/8 tubing, Primochill LRT advanced worked pretty well for me. Lasted more than 2 years without plasticizing even when some of it got really warm - algae ended up forcing me to replace my tubing however.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> If you're insistent on 7/16 5/8 tubing, Primochill LRT advanced worked pretty well for me. Lasted more than 2 years without plasticizing even when some of it got really warm - algae ended up forcing me to replace my tubing however.


Yeah I was looking at primochill too. I don't actually use any of the XSPC kit anymore apart from the barbs. I just need to be tight as my rigs have very limited room and 1/2 tubing in using is so hard to bend and it's so thick


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> If you're insistent on 7/16 5/8 tubing, Primochill LRT advanced worked pretty well for me. Lasted more than 2 years without plasticizing even when some of it got really warm - algae ended up forcing me to replace my tubing however.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I was looking at primochill too. I don't actually use any of the XSPC kit anymore apart from the barbs. I just need to be tight as my rigs have very limited room and 1/2 tubing in using is so hard to bend and it's so thick
Click to expand...

I've heard that 3/8 ID 1/2 OD tubing is generally the best for preventing kinking.

Otherwise you could always just try to use 45 / 90 fittings to reduce kinking, or even hard-line acrylic tubing.

Or just use less tubing in the bottom there?


----------



## NoodleGTS

Why do people use 1/2" OD tubing?

I switched to smaller 3/8" tubing and honestly it's so much easier to work with.

Everything is 1/4" threaded anyway, so it's not like you gain anything from having bigger tubes.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Yep, decided to move away from 1/2 OD tubing myself. I kind of like the look of bigger tubing, but decided it was too much of a pain to work with. Trying out 3/8" ID, 5/8" OD on my next build. Still thick walled sure, but hoping its easier to work with, but still want something harder to kink with some of the runs.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoodleGTS*
> 
> Why do people use 1/2" OD tubing?
> 
> I switched to smaller 3/8" tubing and honestly it's so much easier to work with.
> 
> Everything is 1/4" threaded anyway, so it's not like you gain anything from having bigger tubes.


I had 1/2 spare from ages ago. As I spent money doing my rig again. I tried to save as much money as possible. going to change it when I have the money..


----------



## greg1184

I am currently working on my 2nd build with my raystorm waterblock. I took it out of my old build and it looked like this:


The thermal paste was nicely spread throughout the processor before I cleaned it off. Anyone experienced this?

It seemed to work fine so I placed some fresh Arctic Silver and installed it to my new build:


----------



## theSarcoplasmic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> I am currently working on my 2nd build with my raystorm waterblock. I took it out of my old build and it looked like this:
> 
> 
> The thermal paste was nicely spread throughout the processor before I cleaned it off. Anyone experienced this?
> 
> It seemed to work fine so I placed some fresh Arctic Silver and installed it to my new build:


What is that? I have no idea what I'm looking at...


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theSarcoplasmic*
> 
> What is that? I have no idea what I'm looking at...


The copper bottom of the Raystorm water block....


----------



## theSarcoplasmic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> The copper bottom of the Raystorm water block....


I know that, but isn't it not supposed to have that square?


----------



## Alex132

It's perfectly normal. One part of it has been exposed to air while the other hasn't.
Copper loses its sheen in contact with air over time.


----------



## Sir Beregond

I am not sure. Though I will say that I have been running my Raystorm for 2 1/2 years. I recently took it off to reapply thermal paste and to loosen a tube so I could top off my bay-res (I really didn't plan well).

But to the point, took it off and aside from some scratches on the bottom of the block on the copper, it otherwise is not at all tarnished like this.


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theSarcoplasmic*
> 
> I know that, but isn't it not supposed to have that square?


Thats what I'm trying to figure out and why I posted it. It feels perfectly smooth with no change in texture. The oxygen exposure thing makes sense considering the square was the processor shape. Either way I'll test it when finish my new build.


----------



## rtikphox

Anybody know if inlet/outlet on the cpu block matter? I had mine going in reverse (out ---> in) for a few months. Now I have it going correctly and temps jump a bit. Idles at 13c but jumps to 21c in matter of seconds, then comes down back to 13c. I have it in the (left-right orientation). Oulet is on the left and inlet is on the right.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rtikphox*
> 
> Anybody know if inlet/outlet on the cpu block matter? I had mine going in reverse (out ---> in) for a few months. Now I have it going correctly and temps jump a bit. Idles at 13c but jumps to 21c in matter of seconds, then comes down back to 13c. I have it in the (left-right orientation). Oulet is on the left and inlet is on the right.


You should have it where it comes from the "OUT" on the pump, going into the "IN" on the CPU.


----------



## rtikphox

yea I got that part. I was just saying I didn't noticed temp jumps like this having it reverse (pump out going into CPU (out) then out on CPU in to radiators).

Anyways I'm asking about this:


On a few forums they said the (in/out) on the cpu block doesn't matter much. Should I reverse it back?


----------



## pc-illiterate

it matters on the raystorm. it is designed to use the 'in' as in and why it is labeled as such.
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/09/26/i7-2600k-cpu-xspc-raystorm/4/
these photos show just why it is important to use a port if it specified as an inlet.


----------



## rtikphox

So on the microchannel does it have to be vrm to ram orientation or up/down orientation?


----------



## pc-illiterate

as long as the block is assembled correctly, it depends on your cpu and the orientation of the die. the cores run up and down on 2011 and almost all others run left to right. that is why the recommended on 2011 is up and down, aka 90* rotated.


----------



## rtikphox

so how about an AMD FX 8350?


----------



## pc-illiterate

the cores are in the corners but the imc is between them nestled in the l3 cache.

use these pictures also.
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/742091-FX-8350-CPU-DIE-Orientation-Raystorm-Mod


----------



## Flame113

I've purchased XSPC Raystorm D5 Photon 170 kit and now I need to decide which case I'll buy between Phanteks Enthoo Luxe and Corsair 780T.
I've heard that Luxe will not fit GTX 980 and the Photon so the res will not to be mounted above the PSU







How about 780T? Can the res be mounted near the HDD cage? It does looks better that way


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flame113*
> 
> I've purchased XSPC Raystorm D5 Photon 170 kit and now I need to decide which case I'll buy between Phanteks Enthoo Luxe and Corsair 780T.
> I've heard that Luxe will not fit GTX 980 and the Photon so the res will not to be mounted above the PSU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about 780T? Can the res be mounted near the HDD cage? It does looks better that way


Great choice with the photon. I love mine. Here's a picture it it. I purchased the RX360 Kit from frozenCPU, and added an extra RX240 and EX240 from PPCS. I have a 750D, but if I were you, I would go for the 780T (or 750D)


----------



## Alex132

I love the glass of the photon, probably saved my res from warping from heat too.


----------



## Flame113

@SteezyTN: can you post a picture of closer look how you mount the res?

P/S: you did a wonderful job!


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flame113*
> 
> @SteezyTN: can you post a picture of closer look how you mount the res?
> 
> P/S: you did a wonderful job!


I don't have any pictures (plus I'm too lazy to open the panel and deal with the messy cables lol). But it's only screwed in with 3 screws (2 top, one bottom). I have to drill holes for two of them. What I did was mount it to where one of the holes on the back of photon matched up with one of the little holes on the back of the case. Then driller the two other holes


----------



## josear33

Hi all,

Just a (tricky) question;

Currently, I'm running a 3770k at 4.5ghz @1.29v (not a good overclocker, I fear...) with a corsair h80 on a corsair 540 air.
As of now, the radiator is on front intake push pull with a couple noctua f12's.
The results of my last prime95 2-hour run settled me at 65ºC max (20-ish ambient), and right now it's idleing at around 30ºC.

Being that so, I'm planning to upgrade to a 360AX raystorm D5 photon kit (just the CPU, later I'll add my two 670's...), so, could someone help me guess what kind of upgrade I should expect? I fear that I won't get a super upgrade on temps, as of now, the overall thermal performance of the system is pretty good.

On the accoustics front, the system is more "notticeable" than "loud" (its on 42 db on load),

BTW, I'll probably get the kit anyway.

Thanks everyone in advance.


----------



## pc-illiterate

a 360 cooling just a 3770k, youll get superb temps. right now thats a crappy as hell idle temp but load temp is pretty nice.

to compare temps to a 2500k isnt best but, 2500k @ 4.5ghz using 1.344v under load with a 240mm push/pull yate loon 1350 rpm fans @7v -9v (cant remember) ambient temp was about 20*C my cpu temp was roughly 56-58*.
your 360 should get you nice temps on that 3770k but it wont drop a lot. youll just be running your fans slower. thats a good load temp you have already.

all my thoughts and opinions folks. correct me and inform me if im wrong.


----------



## josear33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> a 360 cooling just a 3770k, youll get superb temps. right now thats a crappy as hell idle temp but load temp is pretty nice.
> 
> to compare temps to a 2500k isnt best but, 2500k @ 4.5ghz using 1.344v under load with a 240mm push/pull yate loon 1350 rpm fans @7v -9v (cant remember) ambient temp was about 20*C my cpu temp was roughly 56-58*.
> your 360 should get you nice temps on that 3770k but it wont drop a lot. youll just be running your fans slower. thats a good load temp you have already.
> 
> all my thoughts and opinions folks. correct me and inform me if im wrong.


Thanks a lot.

Just as I expected (also, I expect somewhat lower idle temps...).

BTW... If I shall start with just 3 fans (not 6, for push/pull), I assume they will perform better if I attach them to "suck" air from the radiator (not between the case and the radiator)... will they?

Thanks again


----------



## Alex132

Well, I have 3x800RPM Cougar fans as pull in my 800D. RX360 + EK CPU Block and I get 31'c idle and 50'c load.
i5 2500k 4.7Ghz 1.43v.

Also, the difference between push and pull is negligible.


----------



## SteezyTN

I have an RX360, RX240, and an EX240 for my loop consisting of a 4770k overclocked to 4.4 at 1.245v, and two 6GB 780's overclocked to 1215Mhz at 1.2v.

My 4770k never reaches 70c (about 68c highest) due to my hot 780's. However, you may or may not see a huge increase temperature wise. I came from an H100i, and saw maybe a 3-5c degree in change

Before I added my two 780's to the loop, I only had the RX360 and RX240. BUT, because I had two 780's using EVGA ACX cooling, it led to very hot air being blown through my RX360. So therefore, I cannot really say what my accurate temps were because of that. Except for that they were the same with my H100i (even with the two 780's)


----------



## XEKong

Ouch, I must have the hottest 3770K ever. I am running 4.5ghz with an ambient of 19C and P95 is getting to 73C. That's with dual D5's at 1.6GPM on an AX360 in P/P with Corsair SP120 fans. My mount is good, so I think I will just flush the system and take apart the block and check it. My voltage is only 1.25.


----------



## josear33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XEKong*
> 
> Ouch, I must have the hottest 3770K ever. I am running 4.5ghz with an ambient of 19C and P95 is getting to 73C. That's with dual D5's at 1.6GPM on an AX360 in P/P with Corsair SP120 fans. My mount is good, so I think I will just flush the system and take apart the block and check it. My voltage is only 1.25.


I'm obviously no expert in watercooling (I will, someday... I'll try though), but I bet there is something wrong with your setup... at that vcore, your 3770k is a really good overclocker in my opinion if allows you to get 4.5ghz, so, you should check the loop setup (from what I've read, the most common mistake is swapping the "in/out" water ports in the cpu block).

IMHO, that are REALLY HIGH temps for a 1.25v 3770k on a 360 radiator.

Also, try to reseat the block, and check the TIM you're using. I swapped arctic silver 5 with liquid coolaboratory ultra, and it was worth 5ºC..

Hope it helps!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> My 4770k never reaches 70c (about 68c highest) due to my hot 780's. However, you may or may not see a huge increase temperature wise. I came from an H100i, and saw maybe a 3-5c degree in change


Thanks, if at least I'm able to run the fans at lower rpm without sacrifycing thermal performance, the system will be quieter. That's also a win, for me.

Cheers!


----------



## XEKong

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *josear33*
> 
> I'm obviously no expert in watercooling (I will, someday... I'll try though), but I bet there is something wrong with your setup... at that vcore, your 3770k is a really good overclocker in my opinion if allows you to get 4.5ghz, so, you should check the loop setup (from what I've read, the most common mistake is swapping the "in/out" water ports in the cpu block).
> 
> IMHO, that are REALLY HIGH temps for a 1.25v 3770k on a 360 radiator.
> 
> Also, try to reseat the block, and check the TIM you're using. I swapped arctic silver 5 with liquid coolaboratory ultra, and it was worth 5ºC..
> 
> Hope it helps!
> Thanks, if at least I'm able to run the fans at lower rpm without sacrifycing thermal performance, the system will be quieter. That's also a win, for me.
> 
> Cheers!


My in and out on the block is correct. I think I really need a delid, my core 3 is 9C hotter than the rest. I idle at 24C, and games I usually run 45C at 4.5ghz. I have been putting off tearing down my system. As far as voltage goes, I can pass IBT at 1.235 volts at 4.5ghz. I only need to crack 1.25 to pass P95 set to custom using 97% of my memory to be WHEA error free. Everything else runs just fine.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XEKong*
> 
> Ouch, I must have the hottest 3770K ever. I am running 4.5ghz with an ambient of 19C and P95 is getting to 73C. That's with dual D5's at 1.6GPM on an AX360 in P/P with Corsair SP120 fans. My mount is good, so I think I will just flush the system and take apart the block and check it. My voltage is only 1.25.


De-lidded or not?

If the rad gets warm (end-bits) then it's probably your loop not cooling it properly. If it's not that warm, then it's probably the heat not being transferred through the IHS properly. (Sorry kinda vague, but yeah)


----------



## XEKong

I am getting kind of warm. I don't get much difference between 1200rpm and 2000rpm in temps on the cpu when stress testing. The only difference the fans make is in my GPU temps. The Windforce coolers dump into the case and I need a little more fan speed on my rad for exhaust to keep the cards 70C while gaming. Another thing that might make a little difference is two monitors hooked up keeping one card at a higher clock state idling at 40C dumping that heat in the case.

I have a fan curve setup so I am at 850RPM when doing anything less than gaming. With my two cards, I ramp my fans to about 1450RPMs to create more exhaust while gaming. My curve is based on my water temperature and not the core temp.


----------



## pc-illiterate

XEKong, why are you exhausting through your rads? you should have them as intake along with everyother fan minus the rear case fan. use that as your exhaust. all temps should be better. if not, your gpu temps should remain the same.


----------



## XEKong

Back when I was running an H100i, I found that intake increases my GPU temps. With all the positive pressure in the case when gaming, I could not move enough air out of the case. Even Corsair recommends exhausting the air on the H100i. Besides, I like the colored rings on the bottom lol.

I might get about 3C better. Besides water water is only going up to 31C or so when stressing after 12 hours from 27C coolant temp when at idle at the start of the test.

When I have both GPU's rocking, I can get my coolant temp up to about 36C.


----------



## Alex132

I have my RX360 as exhaust. If I leave the side-panel of my case on, my CPU temps raise by 15'c and my water temps get very hot. (GTX 690 blasting air into it)

Hence why I just leave it off, 24/7.


----------



## josear33

Hey guys,
Finally ordered from frozencpu a raystorm AX360 kit (d5 pump bayres).
I'll update with pics and numbers...

BTW... Happy new year!!


----------



## OmegaNemesis28

Got one the other day. At stock 4790k 4.0ghz, Im running 26C average. At 4.4ghz overclock, I run about 40-50C (1.14 vcore)


----------



## XEKong

It just goes to show, no matter how many times you have done it, you can screw up a TIM placement. This was a big grain of rice placement. This time, I used my old credit card spread method, and my temps dropped about 7C on idle and high end. I also rerouted my lines, and did a better job of bleeding the air out. Now when I restart the computer I get a good chug in the lines when the pump suctions starts.










This time I bled until I had both D5's on the 5 setting and this is all the air that is left in the res. I noticed I must have always left a little air in the system because I could always hear a slight pump hum. Now its dead silent. I noticed where the out port, there was a pocket of air that would not go away, until I lifted my block above the rad and cranked the pump speed up. I also hooked everything up backward and flushed the system and drained it twice.

Core 3 is still 8-10C hotter than the other cores. It's better than it was, but it's still not where I want it just yet.

If it looks like Intel is going to release it's new processors in June, about may, I might just crank the voltage and watch the sum beech burn and see how far I can go. This build was for a college class and I am due for another extreme build anyway. I still have the 980X rocking in my son's PC.


----------



## theSarcoplasmic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XEKong*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It just goes to show, no matter how many times you have done it, you can screw up a TIM placement.


I'm going to be using the Raystorm in a month, could you elaborate on how this is a bad TIM? Thanks!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theSarcoplasmic*
> 
> I'm going to be using the Raystorm in a month, could you elaborate on how this is a bad TIM? Thanks!


Just looking at it it's way too much TIM. It squeezed all the way off the side of the IHS. Too much TIM is worse than not enough. Even though the temps much improved I'm skeptical that his spreading the TIM was an ideal mount though.

Every block and IHS and type of TIM is different. I use the grain of rice method myself but I always apply once, making a mental note of exactly the placement and amount of the TIM, tighten the block down fully, then I remove it immediately to inspect the TIM spread. If I like it I clean it all up thoroughly and repeat exactly the same, and if it spread too little or too much I adjust how much TIM I use.

EDIT: I also warm my TIM first by placing it several inches above a table lamp light bulb for ~5-10 min. It doesn't get hot or cook there, but it does warm it up so it spreads better. I use GeLid GC-Extreme (aka Phobya HeGrease) which is a great TIM BUT and it tends to be a bit thick at room temp and spreads much better when warmed up a little. YMMV with other TIMs.

This recent post I made in another thread, especially the video, may be helpful to you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If you spread the TIM you'll get air bubbles (which you _really_ do not want) and probably apply too much. You're better off to use the pea or grain of rice method and let the block or cooler do the spreading for you as you mount it and tighten it down. You don't want / need to cover the entire CPU's IHS. You want your application to result in a thin and uniform a layer that covers the entire center of the IHS that spreads out near but not all the way to the edges as all of the heat is coming from the die under it:
> 
> 
> 
> Too much TIM is worse than not enough. The best heat transfer is from the direct metal to metal contact between the IHS and block/cooler, but there are too many surface imperfections that would be air pockets if you just put them together by themselves. That's where TIM comes in. It's only job is to uniformly fill all the microgaps in between the two surfaces to aid in heat transfer.
> 
> This vid should be helpful to you ...


----------



## theSarcoplasmic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> This recent post I made in another thread, especially the video, may be helpful to you.


thanks +1 rep


----------



## XEKong

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theSarcoplasmic*
> 
> I'm going to be using the Raystorm in a month, could you elaborate on how this is a bad TIM? Thanks!


Unicr0nhunter is correct. I had way too much, and it did not spread evenly. I probably used more like a pea sized, and my block shifted when I was placing. I was in a hurry to get this up and running when I built it. I had reset the block twice, and just rushed it.

The spread does work if you get it thin enough, but you still have to use a very small amount of TIM. Tim is used for filling micro fissures between the material in the IHS and the block. That makes for the best heat transfer. If you get an even coverage, it's best to get it thin as you can get it. It's not a buffer, just a filler.

Good news is IBT only got my hottest core up to 74, everything else is just in the up 60's. At 4.5ghz, that's a big improvement, about 12C less than before. I guess I am pretty happy now.


----------



## OmegaNemesis28

I hate thinning out TIM because I never know if I apply enough. So I just use the pea method and eyeball a good emount. So far so good.


----------



## Ithanul

Almost got my rig back to running status. Got to say the Raystorm looks better than the old block from that first kit they released a few years back.


----------



## Lutfij

^ good to know you and your build are yet alive







How've you been mate? How long until the Red Dragon is over?

BTW nice shot of your system though you can set your camera on a tripod and remove those blurs


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> ^ good to know you and your build is yet alive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How've you been mate? How long until the Red Dragon is over?
> 
> BTW nice shot of your system though you can set your camera on a tripod and remove those blurs


Doing good. Should hopefully have the rig in running status soon, but no where near finish what I aim to do with modding and water cooling. Still got to save some money so I can get the stuff to fix up the pedestal for the rig. By some time this year I will have some extra cash to hopefully finish it up, and then begin work on little ones.







Though me and my Dad have a idea that if it works out, I am going to switch the main rig to metal tubing if we can figure out how to get the right barbs.

The pump is working and no leaks so far. Woot!













Yeah, I need to find where I packed my tripod off.


----------



## Lutfij

All good things come to those who wait


----------



## SteezyTN




----------



## js593

For the question based on TIM application - I ran into an issue with this today with an H100i kit. We applied the TIM like we normally do, but i layered it on a little bit too thick. This caused near no contact to the block. Which also caused too much heat. An i5-4590K was idling at 50 degrees. After we took it off and noticed that, i did it again, and we started looking at proper temps ( around 26 degrees)

Its all on how its applied. Some prefer the pea method, some prefer to spread it. I cant really say if there's a "wrong " way, but i haven't had much difficulty with the spreading method until today.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

The problem with spreading TIM is it necessarily results in air bubbles which since air is an insulator it negatively affects temps.






There's a lot more videos like that one and they all show examples of how the spread method results in air bubbles. That's why the pea or grain of rice or line or cross methods all involve having your TIM in the center of the IHS and using the block/cooler to spread it outward for you so there are no air bubbles.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Though me and my Dad have a idea that if it works out, I am going to switch the main rig to metal tubing if we can figure out how to get the right barbs.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1280153/pipe-bending-101
all of your answers are in there


----------



## brandotip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*


If all radiators are intake then i'd assume your water temps are high because your interior case temps are high from radiator exhaust heat + positive case pressure. Are they all intake?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> If all radiators are intake then i'd assume your water temps are high because your interior case temps are high from radiator exhaust heat + positive case pressure. Are they all intake?


I made this question in another thread, but I have the bottom (push) and front (pull) radiators and fans on instake, and the top (push) radiators and fans on exhaust.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *brandotip*
> 
> If all radiators are intake then i'd assume your water temps are high because your interior case temps are high from radiator exhaust heat + positive case pressure. Are they all intake?
> 
> 
> 
> I made this question in another thread, but I have the bottom (push) and front (pull) radiators and fans on instake, and the top (push) radiators and fans on exhaust.
Click to expand...

Is that the start of a kink to in the top-left tubing? RX360 -> CPU block.

Also if it were me, I'd make the rear 140mm an intake and put a filter on it


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Is that the start of a kink to in the top-left tubing? RX360 -> CPU block.
> 
> Also if it were me, I'd make the rear 140mm an intake and put a filter on it


It's a tight bend, but there's no kink. Made extra sure when I cut the tubing. When I replace the tubing and do some maintenance, I will make that cut a little longer. And it actually goes CPU-->RX360







?

And if I did it intake,I would lose my aesthetics








haha


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Is that the start of a kink to in the top-left tubing? RX360 -> CPU block.
> 
> Also if it were me, I'd make the rear 140mm an intake and put a filter on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a tight bend, but there's no kink. Made extra sure when I cut the tubing. When I replace the tubing and do some maintenance, I will make that cut a little longer. And it actually goes CPU-->RX360
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> And if I did it intake,I would lose my aesthetics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha
Click to expand...

Maybe try a 45' bend next time?

Meh, I'm really not a fan (huehuehue) of the Corsair fans. They're way too loud for me. I just used a cougar rear 140mm fan with the 7v resistor, and then stuck that on my fan-controller so I could get down to ~5v.

Horrible orange anti-vib rubber? Sharpie fixes everything











My aesthetics are crap, it's like a Christmas tree in my case







Need to get a red mobo I think









(And I've said it before, but I honestly don't like the Raystorm block - if you're wondering why I am here but with no block; I started out my WC loop by buying the RX360 Raystorm kit)


----------



## LandonAaron

I have never been able to get the pea/rice grain TIM application method to work for me. The TIM never reaches the corners no matter how much I use or how tight I screw on the heat sink. Excess TIM will squeeze out the sides but the corners will remain completely bare. When I used this method on the my CPU the temps seemed fine, but when I did it on my GPU the temps would immediately hit 90+ under a full load. I just apply an even thin layer now.


----------



## Ithanul

Well fired up the rig. Stock clocks for the moment on the 4770K.





I highly doubt that temperature going to stay like once I get around to OCing the CPU and the two Titans.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Well fired up the rig. Stock clocks for the moment on the 4770K.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I highly doubt that temperature going to stay like once I get around to OCing the CPU and the two Titans.


Very nice build. I have the same CPU, but two 6GB 780's. At 4.5 (1.3v) my 4770k gets up to 70c (80c max load), and my 780's stay under 50c. My water temps reach 40c which is high for my taste. I'm going to replace my XSPC 1650rpm fans soon.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I have never been able to get the pea/rice grain TIM application method to work for me. The TIM never reaches the corners no matter how much I use or how tight I screw on the heat sink. Excess TIM will squeeze out the sides but the corners will remain completely bare. When I used this method on the my CPU the temps seemed fine, but when I did it on my GPU the temps would immediately hit 90+ under a full load. I just apply an even thin layer now.


CPUs have an IHS. The actual heat-producing die is in the centre. Don't worry about it going all the way to the corner.
GPUs have no IHS (in general no-a-days) and they need complete TIM coverage. I apply a little more than normal for GPUs. You have to make sure you use non-conductive TIM.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Very nice build. I have the same CPU, but two 6GB 780's. At 4.5 (1.3v) my 4770k gets up to 70c (80c max load), and my 780's stay under 50c. My water temps reach 40c which is high for my taste. I'm going to replace my XSPC 1650rpm fans soon.


Yeah, going to be interesting to see how hot my 4770k gets. Hopefully I got a good one, plus the fact I delid the bugger. I still need to get three more fans for my top radiator too.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I have never been able to get the pea/rice grain TIM application method to work for me. The TIM never reaches the corners no matter how much I use or how tight I screw on the heat sink. Excess TIM will squeeze out the sides but the corners will remain completely bare. When I used this method on the my CPU the temps seemed fine, but when I did it on my GPU the temps would immediately hit 90+ under a full load. I just apply an even thin layer now.


You do not want / need it to reach the corners on a CPU. like I wrote several posts back (emphasis in *bold*)...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If you spread the TIM you'll get air bubbles (which you _really_ do not want) and probably apply too much. You're better off to use the pea or grain of rice method and let the block or cooler do the spreading for you as you mount it and tighten it down. *You don't want / need to cover the entire CPU's IHS. You want your application to result in a thin and uniform a layer that covers the entire center of the IHS that spreads out near but not all the way to the edges as all of the heat is coming from the die under it:*
> 
> 
> 
> Too much TIM is worse than not enough. The best heat transfer is from the direct metal to metal contact between the IHS and block/cooler, but there are too many surface imperfections that would be air pockets if you just put them together by themselves. That's where TIM comes in. It's only job is to uniformly fill all the microgaps in between the two surfaces to aid in heat transfer.
> 
> This vid should be helpful to you ...


If you watch that vid, the pea, grain of rice, and even the smiley methods all had a pretty much ideal application of TIM.

But like Alex132 points out, GPUs are a bit different. I use a thin X shaped TIM application to get a more complete coverage on the GPU IHS. And just like with the CPU, I apply once, both everything down, then remove it and observe the TIM spread. If I like it I repeat just the same and if it's too little or too much then I adjust how much TIM I used accordingly.


----------



## XEKong

Who really puts equal pressure on all 4 corners at once? I know when I put my cooler on, I start one corner then move the opposite corner. That is going to push the pea in one direction. If you have a second set of hands, them maybe you might get equal pressure. That is the problem I have with that vid, they put the push on all 4 corners at once with equal pressure. It's not realistic for most people when the install a cooler.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

With a CPU block/cooler I make single turns on opposite corners at the same time then switch to the opposing opposite corners and keep going back and forth so that I tighten everything down as evenly as possible. I don't do one corner at a time.


----------



## SteezyTN

Around July of this year, when I replace the tubing and do maintenance, I will add some 90degree fittings so I can get rid of all the curves and "loops". I like the look, but I feel like it's all tubing.


----------



## pc-illiterate

its actually a good looking loop steezy.


----------



## Flame113

Does anyone have this kit (170 photon) installed in a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe which the photon is stay near the HDD cage?


----------



## XEKong

Steezy, looks great. The only thing I would add is some cable combs.


----------



## Alex132

I don't get cable combs. I have never had an issue with unkempt cables, they're all perfectly aligned without combs


----------



## XEKong

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I don't get cable combs. I have never had an issue with unkempt cables, they're all perfectly aligned without combs


That's ok, its just a personal preference.


----------



## Ramstone

Some sleeved cables are more equal than others







. Most custom or well-made extensions like BitFenix keep their shape well without assistance, but other sleeves may need more help.


----------



## Freely

Quick question everyone. I want to throw an RX120 loop on my A10 6800k. I'm just curious if I would be alright with the smaller rad just because I have limited space in my LAN Boy Air and I want keep everything inside my case. Just the CPU loop and I just want to be able get some decent clocks out of it. Am I going into any problems with the 120?


----------



## XEKong

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freely*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quick question everyone. I want to throw an RX120 loop on my A10 6800k. I'm just curious if I would be alright with the smaller rad just because I have limited space in my LAN Boy Air and I want keep everything inside my case. Just the CPU loop and I just want to be able get some decent clocks out of it. Am I going into any problems with the 120?


For just a CPU, that will work.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

PC water cooling is fun though too lol. spent over 5 hours this weekend adding my gpu, 2 radiators, a drain valve and more compression fittings into the mix. Was a great learning experience as well as the computer just looks gorgeous now










some people may argue that the drain valve is not gorgeous but you know the beauty of it being my PC? You can think all you want. I wont care








Was it necessary to spend over $300 total adding the gpu? probably not... but was it fun? heck yeah it was. and I would probably do it again even with the hurt fingers from those pita fittings.


----------



## Freely

That looks unreal! Water cooling just makes everything look better too. Why do something you're not going to enjoy.

lol it's not about the money.. well maybe sometimes but you can't put a price on how badass it looks!


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freely*
> 
> That looks unreal! Water cooling just makes everything look better too. Why do something you're not going to enjoy.
> 
> lol it's not about the money.. well maybe sometimes but you can't put a price on how badass it looks!


Appreciate the compliment









shame that a few days after i had all my parts my car decided it didn't need to fire all cylinders. $770 shop bill. ouch.


----------



## Freely

ahh that's rough. Funny the timing on things like that..


----------



## madmalkav

Is this the correct orientation for the CPU block on a AMD FX8350 or should I rotate it 90 degrees CW or CCW?


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> Is this the correct orientation for the CPU block on a AMD FX8350 or should I rotate it 90 degrees CW or CCW?


Block orientation shouldn't really matter as long as you have the proper tubes on IN and OUT.

Looks good to me as the logo is on the bottom







Why the tube going behind the comp?


----------



## madmalkav

"In" is the right tube, it comes directly from pump that is behind -this case have big space behind for power supply, pump, ...-. Left tube is "out". Between the pump and the CPU block will be a radiator, it came with some leaks so until I receive replacement it is going directly from pump to CPU block with that joint you can see near the fan.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> "In" is the right tube, it comes directly from pump that is behind -this case have big space behind for power supply, pump, ...-. Left tube is "out". Between the pump and the CPU block will be a radiator, it came with some leaks so until I receive replacement it is going directly from pump to CPU block with that joint you can see near the fan.


should be fine then.


----------



## madmalkav

Ok, thanks, wasn't sure if it will be better for the liquid to flow horizontally or vertically.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> Ok, thanks, wasn't sure if it will be better for the liquid to flow horizontally or vertically.


Shouldn't matter at all.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> Is this the correct orientation for the CPU block on a AMD FX8350 or should I rotate it 90 degrees CW or CCW?


If you turned it CW or CCW, then it wouldn't fit because the ram slots are in the way. You have it right.


----------



## madmalkav

The center, square piece is detachable and you can rotate it.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> The center, square piece is detachable and you can rotate it.


Oh, I thought you meant the actual "holder" part that screws down. Sorry about that


----------



## Juggalo23451




----------



## bittbull187

better shot of the special edition


----------



## soulstaker

Planning to take my loop apart in the next month when I have some time. What should I look for when disassembling my block/d5/ bay reservoir?

I'm also planning to trash the tubing and get a new one, black colored this time. Should I just get the xspc tubing (only used the one included with the kit) or should I spend my money anywhere else?


----------



## bittbull187

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulstaker*
> 
> Planning to take my loop apart in the next month when I have some time. What should I look for when disassembling my block/d5/ bay reservoir?
> 
> I'm also planning to trash the tubing and get a new one, black colored this time. Should I just get the xspc tubing (only used the one included with the kit) or should I spend my money anywhere else?


Looks for any crud build.up between the fins fittings etc , i use hot water and lemon juice for the rads.


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulstaker*
> 
> Planning to take my loop apart in the next month when I have some time. What should I look for when disassembling my block/d5/ bay reservoir?
> 
> I'm also planning to trash the tubing and get a new one, black colored this time. Should I just get the xspc tubing (only used the one included with the kit) or should I spend my money anywhere else?


I was running XSPC tubing for awhile and it leached plasticizer like crazy. It was black tubing and by the time I took it out of my loop after a year, the inner wall was no longer black. I'd suggest you go with tubing like Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT. Been using it for a year and so far the insides are still black.


----------



## DirtMcGirt

FYI for those thinking of purchasing a kit with he 5.25 reservoir bay. The acrylic screw in the back that holds the 5mm LED is a piece of trash. After 1.5mnths of use, coolant started oozing out of that area, leaking all over the place. Furthermore, in order to get a replacement (if there is an upgraded part or not I don't know), you have to go through XSPC which could take a long time. Took them 2wks just to reply to an email, then they wanted more info, which I gave them, which in turn took another 2 wks for them to process. All I needed was that damn acrylic screw. And no, you can't just go buy a g1/4" stop plug to replace it, trust me... it won't fit. It's a tapered female end. I even tried to fix the thing with silicon glue but it's simply a faulty part.

Not buying anything XSPC ever again after this. I've been out of commission for 4 weeks now and their customer support is non existent. Terrible, as if the v1 reservoir didn't have it's own problems.


----------



## josear33

Hi!
I finally made the jump! I installed my waterloop. Spent almost the entire weekend, but it's worth it...
I'll upload some pics and results on OC, but it works much better than I expected.



My setup is an AX360 powered by a d5 vario, just for my 3770k (I plan to put under water my GPUs on the future), clocked at 4.5 @1.29v (before I stated it was @4.5 with my old H80, but it turns out it was @4.4.. sorry!).
Ambient temps are around 20℃.
On full P95 load I get 55℃ max average... Almost a 10℃ average decrease with higher oc and vcore!!! I even was able to take out 3 fans from the initial 8 I had mounted!
Idle temps are averaging 25℃, but I suspect it has to do something with me running unparked cores, as they are always at 4.1 minimum.
Just a minor issue: i find my pump to be noisier spining at low speeds than at high speeds (2-setting vs 4-setting). It vibrates more as well at 2 than at 4 (even 5).
Is this normal??

Thanks in advance guys!

Edit:
Added a picture... isn't it gorgeous??? Loving the looks of the raystorm block...


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Just upgraded my loop the weekend before last.


----------



## SteezyTN

Hey guys, I have a D5 pump, and I let it run about 2900RPM. Its running through 2 GPU's, 1 CPU, and 3 Rads. Will I notice a decrease in temps if I raise the RPM of the pump?


----------



## soulstaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bittbull187*
> 
> Looks for any crud build.up between the fins fittings etc , i use hot water and lemon juice for the rads.


Sorry for the low quality, but I don't have my camera right now.



This is how my reservoir is after a year. Block was relatively clean (no gunking there, just some residue), but I got this stuff here on the reservoir/rad inlets/fittings... Should be fine to use after cleaning with vinegar+distilled water, right?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fickle Pickle*
> 
> I was running XSPC tubing for awhile and it leached plasticizer like crazy. It was black tubing and by the time I took it out of my loop after a year, the inner wall was no longer black. I'd suggest you go with tubing like Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT. Been using it for a year and so far the insides are still black.


Mine had a bit of this too... guess I'll get the Primochill tubing then.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a D5 pump, and I let it run about 2900RPM. Its running through 2 GPU's, 1 CPU, and 3 Rads. Will I notice a decrease in temps if I raise the RPM of the pump?


The difference i dont think would be noticed in change of pump speed but rather fan speed on the rads. pump speed last i checked maybe had a 1C temp difference which is negligible. I hadn't noticed any drastic change from having my pump at setting 1 vs setting 5. fan speed impacts temps more with my setup.


----------



## SteezyTN

I need more rads in mine. I'm thinking about getting a RX360 (if it will fit) or an RX240 and placing it in the back (outside) of the 750D. It seems like 3 rads just aren't enough. My fans have to be at 1650RPM to keep the water temps below 40c.

Either another radiator, or better fans. Seems like the XSPC fans aren't cutting it. At 1650, they are pretty dang loud. I have them connected to an NZXT Sentry Mix 2 fan controller. If I lower them to 40-50% (660-1000RPM), water temps will reach above 42c. Haven't seen more than 42, because I turn my fans up to full speed when it happens. I've been looking into EK's new Vardar fans. The 1450 ones looks good. I want SP120's for aesthetics, but I'm not sure if I will see an improvement over the XSPC stock fans.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I need more rads in mine. I'm thinking about getting a RX360 (if it will fit) or an RX240 and placing it in the back (outside) of the 750D. It seems like 3 rads just aren't enough. My fans have to be at 1650RPM to keep the water temps below 40c.
> 
> Either another radiator, or better fans. Seems like the XSPC fans aren't cutting it. At 1650, they are pretty dang loud. I have them connected to an NZXT Sentry Mix 2 fan controller. If I lower them to 40-50% (660-1000RPM), water temps will reach above 42c. Haven't seen more than 42, because I turn my fans up to full speed when it happens. I've been looking into EK's new Vardar fans. The 1450 ones looks good. I want SP120's for aesthetics, but I'm not sure if I will see an improvement over the XSPC stock fans.


I have little knowledge on fans but from what I have seen the xspc ones are pretty cheap... running them on a 240mm rad for my second rig but that's just cause that one is low priority.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> I have little knowledge on fans but from what I have seen the xspc ones are pretty cheap... running them on a 240mm rad for my second rig but that's just cause that one is low priority.


Yeah I have 7 for all of my rads. they are good fans, but once heat comes into the equation, they seem to perform pretty bad.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Steezy,, you have 7x 120mm of rad space? I have no idea why your coolant would be that warm. Do you have any other fans you can use for a bit? I would go with high rpm varder fans since you have a fan controller. It's better to turn them down while having the ability to go faster rather than buying an already low speed fan.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Steezy,, you have 7x 120mm of rad space? I have no idea why your coolant would be that warm. Do you have any other fans you can use for a bit? I would go with high rpm varder fans since you have a fan controller. It's better to turn them down while having the ability to go faster rather than buying an already low speed fan.


Yup. If you are using the desktop version, you can see which rads I have as well as the components. I use the mobile site sometimes, so I can't see it. But yeah, 7 120mm rad space. I use distiller water and dead water. I added some extra drops of the dead water, so I'm not sure if that could be the issue. But I'm trying to get some fans that stay around 800RPM for the quietness. But once I had heat to my components, 800 isn't enough. That's when my water temps reach 40c.


----------



## Ithanul

Definitely sounds like those fans are not doing a good job. I currently only have HWLab 360 with three eLoops (@ about 1700RPM) in push and a Phyoba 200 with Cooler Master Mega Flow (@ about 600RPM) in push. I can have both my Titans and i7 with full load folding. At most my water temp gets up to 35C, and at idle browsing the water stays around 23C.

Yeah, SP120s are nice looking fans, but compared to a eLoop. They a crazy loud. I had Silverstone fans (seriously sound like jet engines firing up), SP120s, eLoop, and Gentle Typhoon AP-19s (loudest to quietest).


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulstaker*
> 
> Sorry for the low quality, but I don't have my camera right now.
> 
> 
> 
> This is how my reservoir is after a year. Block was relatively clean (no gunking there, just some residue), but I got this stuff here on the reservoir/rad inlets/fittings... Should be fine to use after cleaning with vinegar+distilled water, right?
> Mine had a bit of this too... guess I'll get the Primochill tubing then.


That blue stuff my friend, is plasticizer. That stuff seems to only come out with good old fashioned physical scrubbing. I had to disassemble the res and take the plexiglass window out to scrub it. Be careful though, getting the rubber gasket back into place after opening the reservoir is quite annoying and difficult IMO.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I need more rads in mine. I'm thinking about getting a RX360 (if it will fit) or an RX240 and placing it in the back (outside) of the 750D. It seems like 3 rads just aren't enough. My fans have to be at 1650RPM to keep the water temps below 40c.
> 
> Either another radiator, or better fans. Seems like the XSPC fans aren't cutting it. At 1650, they are pretty dang loud. I have them connected to an NZXT Sentry Mix 2 fan controller. If I lower them to 40-50% (660-1000RPM), water temps will reach above 42c. Haven't seen more than 42, because I turn my fans up to full speed when it happens. I've been looking into EK's new Vardar fans. The 1450 ones looks good. I want SP120's for aesthetics, but I'm not sure if I will see an improvement over the XSPC stock fans.


How big of an overclock are you running and what are your ambients? I have almost the same setup but running 670's instead. Cooling the motherboard as well and haven't seen temps over 35C, mind you with no overclock yet. Not saying you are doing something wrong, just didn't know to expect that large of a leap.


----------



## SteezyTN

I have my 4770k running at 4.4 (1.235v), and two 6GB 780's running 1175MHz (1.2v). Ambient is a little under 27c because it's winter and I have the heater running at times. I recently swapped my RX240 to push, so temps are about 2c better... But the fans still need to run at ~1100-1200RPM to keep the water temps below 40c. At that speed, it's not "jet plane loud," but loud for my taste. I didn't pay $800 to keep my to where it bugs me haha.

If I got the improvement of putting all rads as push, then most likely new fans would performe better and give better water temps. The max my 4770k has seen was about 70-73c, and one 780 hit about 53c. Those are the max temps I have seen. I just don't want to spend more that $15-20 PER fan.


----------



## Cavey00

Hmm. Good to know. I have 3 GT's and 4 Noctua's in push, all at or under 1000 rpm. Can't hear them over the D5 pump vibration, which is flush mounted directly to the bottom of my case. I didn't see a difference in water temps turning them any higher so silent is where they stay. Once I have time I'll mess with an overclock but for what I'm playing right now it's not really needed. Fun to be able to tinker though. I certainly wouldn't want to sacrifice the noise level though for daily use. I think if you are patient enough you will be able to score some good fans off the marketplace in your goal price range.


----------



## XEKong

Is there a good way to quiet down the pumps on a dual D5 bay res. Anything over 3200 RPM on both pumps and I can really hear the pumps making a wah wah sound, or more like an electrical hum. It's not loud, but the tone sticks out like a sore thumb when I am sitting beside my PC. The only thing I have connected is a CPU block and an AX360 with SP 120's in P/P in a 900D case.


----------



## pc-illiterate

its probably the res vibrating in odd cage. do you have enough tubing to pull the res out and support it to check for noise/humming?


----------



## XEKong

Yes, I had it out when I cleaned and flushed the system. The res is very secure, I think it's just a frequency I am sensitive tool


----------



## soulstaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fickle Pickle*
> 
> That blue stuff my friend, is plasticizer. That stuff seems to only come out with good old fashioned physical scrubbing. I had to disassemble the res and take the plexiglass window out to scrub it. Be careful though, getting the rubber gasket back into place after opening the reservoir is quite annoying and difficult IMO.


I'm quite relieved that that stuff is plasticizer. I was thinking it was a bacterial contamination.


----------



## soulstaker

Ok, managed to get most of the stuff there and on the pump connector behind the reservoir... I'm pretty sure some of it must be inside the reservoir. The EK knowledge base doesn't recommend using vinegar to clean acetal, but can I use neutral detergent or something along these lines?

--edit--



Holy crap....


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulstaker*
> 
> Ok, managed to get most of the stuff there and on the pump connector behind the reservoir... I'm pretty sure some of it must be inside the reservoir. The EK knowledge base doesn't recommend using vinegar to clean acetal, but can I use neutral detergent or something along these lines?
> 
> --edit--
> 
> 
> 
> Holy crap....


Scrubbing and more scrubbing. You should probably open up your waterblocks (GPU & CPU) to clean out the crud. Mine was super clogged.


----------



## soulstaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fickle Pickle*
> 
> Scrubbing and more scrubbing. You should probably open up your waterblocks (GPU & CPU) to clean out the crud. Mine was super clogged.


My waterblock was surprisingly clean... most of the stuff wasn't stuck to the copper, it went away with just a some swipes of the toothbrush. Still need to find something to clean that particular place in the reservoir,


----------



## Tech Genius

Can i join?


----------



## MrPerforations

hello's,
can I join too please?,
op , did you just have the same weekend I had?








just got me a xspc raystorm 750 ex360 with a second 360 rad.


----------



## mbze430

I have been eyeing on the XSPC Raystorm D5 AX240. I have a few questions for owners.

The kit I am about to purchase will be from PPC, since FrozenCPU is gone. Configuring the kit it has an option to change the tubings. My question I suppose is how are the tubings that comes with the kit? or in this matter would it be something else from PPC? Or should I purchase another higher quality tubings?

Here is what I planning to get and what it will do.

The XSPC Raystorm Single D5 with AX240 radiator
Upgrade the CPU block to full copper (PPC's option)
upgrade the tubing to 1/2" x 3/4" (I hope they include the right fittings)
PrimoChill ICE Non-Conductive coolant

All the LED and stuff I don't care, my case is an Antec P280 nothing to see.

For NOW - it will just chill my delid i7-4790k 4.6hgz @ 1.24v (will be going above this once I solve my heat issue, with my current closed-loop set up, thermal is the only real issue)

I DO plan to expand it cool 1x GPU and 1x Memory waterblocks, in which case I will get a RX120 to add to the loop.

I won't go beyond that, because I am not a hard core gamer.

with the additional GPU and Memory waterblock, a single D5 pump through the AX240+RX120 and the 3 waterblocks? or should I just invest in the Dual D5 setup?

Help and input is greatly appreciated.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbze430*
> 
> I have been eyeing on the XSPC Raystorm D5 AX240. I have a few questions for owners.
> 
> The kit I am about to purchase will be from PPC, since FrozenCPU is gone. Configuring the kit it has an option to change the tubings. My question I suppose is how are the tubings that comes with the kit? or in this matter would it be something else from PPC? Or should I purchase another higher quality tubings?
> 
> Here is what I planning to get and what it will do.
> 
> The XSPC Raystorm Single D5 with AX240 radiator
> Upgrade the CPU block to full copper (PPC's option)
> upgrade the tubing to 1/2" x 3/4" (I hope they include the right fittings)
> PrimoChill ICE Non-Conductive coolant
> 
> All the LED and stuff I don't care, my case is an Antec P280 nothing to see.
> 
> For NOW - it will just chill my delid i7-4790k 4.6hgz @ 1.24v
> 
> I DO plan to expand it cool 1x GPU and 1x Memory waterblocks, in which case I will get a RX120 to add to the loop.
> 
> I won't go beyond that, because I am not a hard core gamer.
> 
> with the additional GPU and Memory waterblock, a single D5 pump through the AX240+RX120 and the 3 waterblocks? or should I just invest in the Dual D5 setup?
> 
> Help and input is greatly appreciated.


Single d5 is plenty. My D5 is pushing through a 240 rad, raystorm block, 120 rad, 970 block, another 120 rad then back to the res. All of this is effortless so far as i can tell. Also, the XSPC tubing is JUNK.

select fittings for the kit but leave tubing alone, it will be drain tubing at best. Get Primochill Advance LRT tubing of your choice of color and size. I advise running clear coolant with colored tubing to avoid any possible staining.


----------



## mbze430

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> select fittings for the kit but leave tubing alone, it will be drain tubing at best. Get Primochill Advance LRT tubing of your choice of color and size. I advise running clear coolant with colored tubing to avoid any possible staining.


Excellent, and thank you. I already planned to run everything clear. I wanted to use the clear to gauge if there are bio byproduct and plasticized gum in the system.

Anything else anyone recommend I should get? to make life easier on filling and removing the coolant during maintenance? anything meters (idk) inline to check for temps.. flow...etc??


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbze430*
> 
> Excellent, and thank you. I already planned to run everything clear. I wanted to use the clear to gauge if there are bio byproduct and plasticized gum in the system.
> 
> Anything else anyone recommend I should get? to make life easier on filling and removing the coolant during maintenance? anything meters (idk) inline to check for temps.. flow...etc??


Have you prices out a T fitting for a drain valve?


----------



## Alex132

XSPC tubing is great..... for using as spare tubing when filling your loop









That's the only thing I use mine for anyway, and it was yellow-ish day 1 IIRC (it was 3 years ago).


----------



## mbze430

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Have you prices out a T fitting for a drain valve?


That I have not, see... this is why I ask.. there is always something I might forget! lol


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbze430*
> 
> That I have not, see... this is why I ask.. there is always something I might forget! lol


I would get one of these T fittings http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-g1-4-t-fitting-black-chrome.html
Two fittings for the pass through of the T fitting, the ones linked are 7/16 ID 5/8 OD fittings: http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-g1-4-to-7-16-id-5-8-od-compression-fitting-black-chrome-finish-v2.html
one of these Male to male adapters for connecting the valve to the T fitting: http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-g1-4-5mm-male-to-male-fitting-black-chrome-finish.html
The valve: http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors/phobya-2-way-ball-valve-g1-4-knurled.html
and a barb for the end of the valve: http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-g1-4-to-13mm-1-2-barb-fitting-black-chrome-finish.html

The male to male adapter is not a rotary fitting so it stops turning when it is tight. Might be a problem if aesthetics are a big concern.


----------



## LandonAaron

I just use those super cheap primochill plastic T fittings works well enough for me, and you can get them in whatever color you want to match your loop. I actually use the one that is more of a Y shape than a T shape as it fits my loop better.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I just use those super cheap primochill plastic T fittings works well enough for me, and you can get them in whatever color you want to match your loop. I actually use the one that is more of a Y shape than a T shape as it fits my loop better.


This also works, in my opinion though does not look as clean. You still need clamps for them correct?


----------



## mbze430

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> I would get one of these T fittings http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-g1-4-t-fitting-black-chrome.html
> Two fittings for the pass through of the T fitting, the ones linked are 7/16 ID 5/8 OD fittings: http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-g1-4-to-7-16-id-5-8-od-compression-fitting-black-chrome-finish-v2.html
> one of these Male to male adapters for connecting the valve to the T fitting: http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-g1-4-5mm-male-to-male-fitting-black-chrome-finish.html
> The valve: http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors/phobya-2-way-ball-valve-g1-4-knurled.html
> and a barb for the end of the valve: http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-g1-4-to-13mm-1-2-barb-fitting-black-chrome-finish.html
> 
> The male to male adapter is not a rotary fitting so it stops turning when it is tight. Might be a problem if aesthetics are a big concern.


ok now that I am looking at these "accessories" they all seems to be the 7/16 stuff. should I even bother going to the 1/2 tubing and fittings? seems like I am just "bottlenecking" the flow if I end up with parts that are 7/16


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbze430*
> 
> ok now that I am looking at these "accessories" they all seems to be the 7/16 stuff. should I even bother going to the 1/2 tubing and fittings? seems like I am just "bottlenecking" the flow if I end up with parts that are 7/16


Tubing size is more of a preference on how it looks. The only thing you would have to change from the list i provided is the 2 fittings for the pass through to the appropriate size.
From a sheer functionality standpoint I don't think there is any flow difference between 7/16 Id tubing and 1/2 Id tubing as they both will be restricted by blocks and other fittings anyway.


----------



## pc-illiterate

fittings have an internal diameter of about 3/8". tubing size doesnt matter much if at all until you hit 5/16" id.
dont bother with a memory block. memory doesnt get hot and not even warm really. its just adding restriction to a loop.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> This also works, in my opinion though does not look as clean. You still need clamps for them correct?


I use clamps just to be safe, but really since its plastic they are full intensive purposes stuck on there. Getting them off is a real pain. I usually have to cut the hose and then boil the hose and fitting to get it to slide off. I agree they don't look great though. I just use it for my drain in a non-visible location. I have metal fittings elsewhere. But fittings are just way to expensive IMO. I mean I think nearly a quarter or a third of my loop cost was on fittings alone, and I bought the cheapest (alphacool) ones I could find that looked half decent.


----------



## mbze430

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> fittings have an internal diameter of about 3/8". tubing size doesnt matter much if at all until you hit 5/16" id.
> dont bother with a memory block. memory doesnt get hot and not even warm really. its just adding restriction to a loop.


I have to say the differ... I run 16GB of Vengeance LP @ only 1866 @ 1.53v and the heatsink are hot to the touch.. like I can't even put my finger tips on it for longer than 1 sec.

I'll have to check it with a temp gun one of these weekends


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbze430*
> 
> I have to say the differ... I run 16GB of Vengeance LP @ only 1866 @ 1.53v and the heatsink are hot to the touch.. like I can't even put my finger tips on it for longer than 1 sec.
> 
> I'll have to check it with a temp gun one of these weekends


then something is wrong because ram does not get hot. ask anyone in the water cooling gallery. there is zero point to water cool ram besides looks.


----------



## chillidog

hi i have made the plunge into custom water cooling and i got one off these XSPC RayStorm D5 RX360 V3 WaterCooling Kit coming today but what i want to know how much fluid should i need, but i must stress that am only doing the cpu at present time . this will be going into an corsair 900d case. and cooling an 4790k cpu.
thx


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> hi i have made the plunge into custom water cooling and i got one off these XSPC RayStorm D5 RX360 V3 WaterCooling Kit coming today but what i want to know how much fluid should i need, but i must stress that am only doing the cpu at present time . this will be going into an corsair 900d case. and cooling an 4790k cpu.
> thx


The XSPC RX360 V3 holds 450ml of liquid by itself.
1 liter should be plenty for a loop made with that kit.


----------



## chillidog

thx what do we know of the k2 thermal past that comes with the kit is it any good or shall i get some other make if so what do you recommend ? am looking to get some good temps


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> thx what do we know of the k2 thermal past that comes with the kit is it any good or shall i get some other make if so what do you recommend ? am looking to get some good temps


Probably best to get other thermal paste. Most people will recommend MX-4, Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra, IC Diamond, PK-3, and Gelid Extreme. I personally use Shin-Etsu X23-7783D. Love the stuff. Been using it for years on my liquid cooled CPUs and GPUs. To be honest though, among the top thermal pastes, the temp differences can range from 0-2 degrees. You really can't go wrong with any of them. Just buy the thermal paste that fits your budget and is the easiest to get.


----------



## pc-illiterate

just use the k2. i used it until my pk-1 came and i saw no difference in temps. its good paste.


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> just use the k2. i used it until my pk-1 came and i saw no difference in temps. its good paste.


+1

K2 worked great for my rig.


----------



## josear33

+1 on k2. Using it in my rig as well and seems to be doing ok


----------



## Flame113

So I've just installed my XSPC Raystorm D5 Photon inside a Corsair 780T and there is no place left to put my HDD (had to remove HDD cage for room of the photon). Does anyone know how to mount my HDD without using 3.5" to 5.25" adapter (can't buy it at the moment)


----------



## theSarcoplasmic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *josear33*
> 
> +1 on k2. Using it in my rig as well and seems to be doing ok


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> +1
> 
> K2 worked great for my rig.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> just use the k2. i used it until my pk-1 came and i saw no difference in temps. its good paste.


Just built my system, I'm on the same boat. Seeing some great temps with K2


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flame113*
> 
> So I've just installed my XSPC Raystorm D5 Photon inside a Corsair 780T and there is no place left to put my HDD (had to remove HDD cage for room of the photon). Does anyone know how to mount my HDD without using 3.5" to 5.25" adapter (can't buy it at the moment)


could u mount the pump at the back where the 3 rubber gromet's are just an idea


----------



## Flame113

This photon is bigger so it wont fit ;(


----------



## carlhil2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flame113*
> 
> This photon is bigger so it wont fit ;(


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDSSAWU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## ashash

is my waterblock ****ed up?


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ashash*
> 
> is my waterblock ****ed up?


I would drain and clean everything.

What liquid are you using?
Any additives.
Brand of tubing.
Mixed metals.

Provide as much detail as possible to allow for the best help.


----------



## ashash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> I would drain and clean everything.
> 
> What liquid are you using?
> Any additives.
> Brand of tubing.
> Mixed metals.
> 
> Provide as much detail as possible to allow for the best help.


i'm using this kit:
http://www.xs-pc.com/discontinued-eol/raystorm-750-rs240-watercooling-kit

car coolant/antifreeze (15%) + pt nuke (2 drops) + deionized and distilled mixed water


----------



## giltyler

I could be some flux residue from the radiator but I would wait until someone that may know for sure.
Might be from the tubing.
I do not think anti freeze is a good option in the PC


----------



## XanderTheGoober

What cleaning was done when the loop was first assembled? Also did you use the included XSPC tubing?


----------



## ashash

cleaned with distilled water
i'm using everything that was on kit , tbh i'm not overclocker , i'm just using this kit to cool my 3930k

its running for about more than 2 years , last time i changed the water was about 6 monts ago


----------



## Flame113

So I've assembled my loop and found out that CPU's temp is higher than I expect. Guess the thermal paste was not applied correctly.
Is it safe to pull up the Raystorm to re-apply the thermal paste? I'm using soft tube.


----------



## theSarcoplasmic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flame113*
> 
> So I've assembled my loop and found out that CPU's temp is higher than I expect. Guess the thermal paste was not applied correctly.
> Is it safe to pull up the Raystorm to re-apply the thermal paste? I'm using soft tube.


It should be; I believe compression fittings are a lot tighter than barb fittings, if that helps. If you've ever tried to pull a tubing out of the compression, it takes quite a lot of force.

I take no responsibility though if a tube pops off


----------



## theSarcoplasmic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flame113*
> 
> So I've assembled my loop and found out that CPU's temp is higher than I expect. Guess the thermal paste was not applied correctly.
> Is it safe to pull up the Raystorm to re-apply the thermal paste? I'm using soft tube.


Sorry, double post, what method did you use to apply the thermal paste?


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ashash*
> 
> cleaned with distilled water
> i'm using everything that was on kit , tbh i'm not overclocker , i'm just using this kit to cool my 3930k
> 
> its running for about more than 2 years , last time i changed the water was about 6 monts ago


I have heard the XSPC tubing is junk and clouds quickly, might have plasticiser issues as well.
You might be due for a loop tear down and inspect the block for debris. if you have no debris it maybe biological build up of some sort. Either way you might want to look into getting a Mayhems Blitz pro kit with Part 2 only. Stuff cleans really well, just be sure you have some way to attach your tap water faucet to the reservoir securely for flushing all the blitz out when you're done. Stuff is really bubbly and hard to get all the bubbles out without running the tap through it for about 15 minutes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flame113*
> 
> So I've assembled my loop and found out that CPU's temp is higher than I expect. Guess the thermal paste was not applied correctly.
> Is it safe to pull up the Raystorm to re-apply the thermal paste? I'm using soft tube.


Assuming you have enough slack you should be able to lift the block up without disconnecting fittings


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flame113*
> 
> So I've assembled my loop and found out that CPU's temp is higher than I expect. Guess the thermal paste was not applied correctly.
> Is it safe to pull up the Raystorm to re-apply the thermal paste? I'm using soft tube.


simple questions first.
what temps, both ambient and cpu?
did you remove the plastic film from the block's base?
are you sure your loop is bled?
are the tubes connected to the correct ports on the block?


----------



## giltyler

Did you use the K2 paste that came with the kit? If so it takes very little to get a good spread with that stuff.


----------



## Flame113

Yes I'm using K2 paste.
Ambient temp is around 23 Celsius degree, CPU idle temp is ~35 and can reach up to 60 when I playing games.
I did remove the plastic film before install it.
Pump out -> rad port 1 then from rad port 2 -> CPU in then CPU out to Pump in


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flame113*
> 
> Yes I'm using K2 paste.
> Ambient temp is around 23 Celsius degree, CPU idle temp is ~35 and can reach up to 60 when I playing games.
> I did remove the plastic film before install it.
> Pump out -> rad port 1 then from rad port 2 -> CPU in then CPU out to Pump in


K2 performs about as well as AS-5, so if you want to know if the thermal paste is working well, you can look up what others are getting on a similar setup.


----------



## Flame113

Ok so I have another dumb question. Sorry about it because this is my 1st time with watercooling








Since everyone setup your kit, how do you control the speed of D5 pump? I see the dial is at the bottom of the pump and the distance between the pump and bottom case is so close so it is hard to change the speed. I needed to use a mirror to see the dial


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flame113*
> 
> Ok so I have another dumb question. Sorry about it because this is my 1st time with watercooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since everyone setup your kit, how do you control the speed of D5 pump? I see the dial is at the bottom of the pump and the distance between the pump and bottom case is so close so it is hard to change the speed. I needed to use a mirror to see the dial


When I had my D5 mounted to a tube res I made a small right angle tool out od thin flat metal to adjust the speed and it was very tedious to change.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

For new installations where I haven't settled on a pump speed yet I usually unbolt the pump to be able to change it.

It's possible I might have been able to get at the lil knob without doing so but I've always been leery of turning it the wrong way as the little knobs are so easy to break. Even when it is easily accessible so many people look at the slot on the knob and think it's pointing to '2' instead of noticing there is an arrow on the other end of that slot that's pointing to '5' so when they go to turn it up... snap ... they broke it.

Anywho, luckily there's little reason to ever change the speed of a pump seeing as flow rate has such a miniscule affect on temps. I usually set the pump to '4' to start with and if that meets my noise threshold then I never ever change the speed of the pump after that. if not I'll first unbolt the pump and try to address it with some better decoupling to quiet the pump noise down, but if that fails I might then change the speed to '3' and just leave it there. That's the absolute max number of times I'll ever adjust pump speed for a loop.


----------



## Mrreks

Hi people. last year i bought a raystorm 750 ex360 kit. works great. but i plan on expanding it shortly. so random question. If i expand it should i use the 750 pump build in to my bay res along side my d5 pump or will the slower pump hinder the performance of the d5. Any input on this. Im new to water cooling


----------



## chillidog

ok got the XSPC RayStorm D5 EX360 all fitted now leaked test for over 19 hrs and all ok. in the end i kept with arctic silver 5 in which i have found in an spare tool box i had, temps on start up looks much better from 26 -29 *c . their is only one issue is that in the xspc book iot say's cornect the tachometer output to mb fan header i did this but upon starting up on screen flashed up about no cpu input detected not sure if i could over ride it in the bios or not, so in the end i placed the tachometer to the cpu fan input will that be ok?. still some cable mangaement to do.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrreks*
> 
> Hi people. last year i bought a raystorm 750 ex360 kit. works great. but i plan on expanding it shortly. so random question. If i expand it should i use the 750 pump build in to my bay res along side my d5 pump or will the slower pump hinder the performance of the d5. Any input on this. Im new to water cooling


You should be able to use both alongside, but I don't think you need to. The D5 pump should be plenty for almost any setup. If I were you I would continue to use the bay res simply as a resovoir, and use the D5 as a pump. That way you don't have to buy another reservoir and you get to keep using that pretty bay res.


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrreks*
> 
> Hi people. last year i bought a raystorm 750 ex360 kit. works great. but i plan on expanding it shortly. so random question. If i expand it should i use the 750 pump build in to my bay res along side my d5 pump or will the slower pump hinder the performance of the d5. Any input on this. Im new to water cooling


A single D5 can easily handle the average loop of CPU, GPU, and 3 Rads.

Heck, I'm using a single D5 on a Raystom CPU block, Heatkiller R9-290x block, and 4 EX rads (360, 240, 240, 120). My components are all cooled quite well.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fickle Pickle*
> 
> A single D5 can easily handle the average loop of CPU, GPU, and 3 Rads.
> 
> Heck, I'm using a single D5 on a Raystom CPU block, Heatkiller R9-290x block, and 4 EX rads (360, 240, 240, 120). My components are all cooled quite well.


I was always curious how much a D5 can handle. Right now I got two radiators, 2 full copper Titan blocks, and a Raystorm block. I guessing once I get to around adding two more radiators, the D5 should be fine?

Biggest issue is the fact the two extra radiators later on will be the lowest point in a pedestal.


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I was always curious how much a D5 can handle. Right now I got two radiators, 2 full copper Titan blocks, and a Raystorm block. I guessing once I get to around adding two more radiators, the D5 should be fine?
> 
> Biggest issue is the fact the two extra radiators later on will be the lowest point in a pedestal.


I'm not entirely sure to be honest. I know that GPU blocks are pretty restrictive and the raystorm cpu block is one of least restrictive cpu blocks floating around. Radiators historically have not been that restrictive. You seem to have only one more block than I do and would have the same amount of rads. You probably could be fine, but again, probably best to get a flowmeter to really know.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fickle Pickle*
> 
> I'm not entirely sure to be honest. I know that GPU blocks are pretty restrictive and the raystorm cpu block is one of least restrictive cpu blocks floating around. Radiators historically have not been that restrictive. You seem to have only one more block than I do and would have the same amount of rads. You probably could be fine, but again, probably best to get a flowmeter to really know.


I plan to get a flowmeter later on when I have to tear the rig down to add the pedestal and radiators. Plus, got to do a whole lot more cutting and modding still if I want a Haf X to sit on a 915.


----------



## chillidog

updated pic of the custom loop still need to do some more work on the cable management ( some better braiding )


would be nice if u can change the geforce gtx to red. can it be done ?


----------



## Alastair

Guys I had a question. Has anyone ever fabricated an X shaped mount for the raystorm CPU block for AMD? Similar to the Intel one. Because the rectangle one is a bit of an eyesore for AMD machines.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Guys I had a question. Has anyone ever fabricated an X shaped mount for the raystorm CPU block for AMD? Similar to the Intel one. Because the rectangle one is a bit of an eyesore for AMD machines.


i guess its not possible but by looking at the mount you not going to see much off an x shape, i guess this is why they haven't done it


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Guys I had a question. Has anyone ever fabricated an X shaped mount for the raystorm CPU block for AMD? Similar to the Intel one. Because the rectangle one is a bit of an eyesore for AMD machines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i guess its not possible but by looking at the mount you not going to see much off an x shape, i guess this is why they haven't done it
Click to expand...

I mean if it was milled of CNC'ed from steel or something surely it would be mor than strong enough to handle the mounting pressure.


----------



## LandonAaron

So I am fixing to do a major upgrade to my loop. I am currently running the Raystorm ex750 x20 dual bay res/pump with the Raystorm CPU block, a universal EK VGA block, and a 420mm radiator. I am not very happy with my CPU temps though. I am trying to cool a i7-4790k at 4.6 Ghz and 1.3v. Running OCCT my CPU gets up to 85C, which is just too hot for my liking. I added high pressure fans in a push pull configuration on my radiator but it didn't make any difference to the CPU temp. I think the problem may be flow related as the water temperature (measured at the reservoir), only goes up from about 24C idle to 28C under full load. Only a 4 degree difference. To me this signifies that the radiator is doing a good job of dissipating heat and keeping the water cool, but the CPU block/water loop isn't doing a very good job of absorbing the heat from the CPU.

I think maybe the water just isn't passing through the CPU block fast enough to cool it. Therefore I want to upgrade the pump, or add a second more powerful pump to the loop.

I am about to add a second R9 290x to my system, and replace the universal GPU block, with 2 full cover blocks, and add a second radiator, an Alphacool Nexxxos xt45, 240mm. I think this should be plenty of rad space for the 3 blocks.

What I am thinking I will do is is add a MCP50x to the loop right after the XSPC x20 bay res, and just use both pumps in series.

So my loop will be:

XSPC X20 Pump/Res >> MCP50x Pump >> XSPC Raystorm CPU Block >> Alphacool Nexoss XT45 240mm Radiator >> 2 x R9 290X Full Cover EK blocks in parallel >> XSPC 750EX 420mm Radiator >> XSPC X20 Pump/Res

How does this idea sound?

My other option would be to replace the X20 bay/res with the XSPC D5 Bay Res, but this would cost twice as much as just adding a MCP50x to my current setup.

What do you guys think?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> updated pic of the custom loop still need to do some more work on the cable management ( some better braiding )
> 
> 
> would be nice if u can change the geforce gtx to red. can it be done ?


Not without a lot of effort, maybe just turn off the LED for now - it's what I have done since I got my 690 lol


----------



## Timstuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> So I am fixing to do a major upgrade to my loop. I am currently running the Raystorm ex750 x20 dual bay res/pump with the Raystorm CPU block, a universal EK VGA block, and a 420mm radiator. I am not very happy with my CPU temps though. I am trying to cool a i7-4790k at 4.6 Ghz and 1.3v. Running OCCT my CPU gets up to 85C, which is just too hot for my liking. I added high pressure fans in a push pull configuration on my radiator but it didn't make any difference to the CPU temp. I think the problem may be flow related as the water temperature (measured at the reservoir), only goes up from about 24C idle to 28C under full load. Only a 4 degree difference. To me this signifies that the radiator is doing a good job of dissipating heat and keeping the water cool, but the CPU block/water loop isn't doing a very good job of absorbing the heat from the CPU.
> 
> I think maybe the water just isn't passing through the CPU block fast enough to cool it. Therefore I want to upgrade the pump, or add a second more powerful pump to the loop.
> 
> I am about to add a second R9 290x to my system, and replace the universal GPU block, with 2 full cover blocks, and add a second radiator, an Alphacool Nexxxos xt45, 240mm. I think this should be plenty of rad space for the 3 blocks.
> 
> What I am thinking I will do is is add a MCP50x to the loop right after the XSPC x20 bay res, and just use both pumps in series.
> 
> So my loop will be:
> 
> XSPC X20 Pump/Res >> MCP50x Pump >> XSPC Raystorm CPU Block >> Alphacool Nexoss XT45 240mm Radiator >> 2 x R9 290X Full Cover EK blocks in parallel >> XSPC 750EX 420mm Radiator >> XSPC X20 Pump/Res
> 
> How does this idea sound?
> 
> My other option would be to replace the X20 bay/res with the XSPC D5 Bay Res, but this would cost twice as much as just adding a MCP50x to my current setup.
> 
> What do you guys think?


That's somewhat concerning, and I'd like to know the answer to this as well. I was planning to get 750 pumps for me and my brother's rig upgrades because the D5 pumps are so much more expensive, but I'd like some advice on the wisdom of that, because I want the option of being able to expand in the future without needing a new pump. I was originally only planning to run one GPU on water at some point in the future, but after hearing about the changes being made to SLI in DirectX 12, a second GPU is sounding like a much more attractive feature. Is a 750 pump going to be enough to power a 280mm rad, water blocks for a CPU and potentially two GPUs, and a 120mm rad? I don't think just the CPU and one GPU would be a problem with a 750 pump, but I really need to know whether or not I will be kicking myself in the pants down the road by not just sucking it up and spending the extra $100 and getting a D5.

For some reason, with the 360mm x 56mm rad kits, the D5 version is only $60 more than the 750 versions. For the 280mm kits (the kind that will actually fit in my system), the difference between the 750 kit and the D5 kit is $100. It might be an easier choice for my brother to make with his rig as to which he'd rather buy since the price jump is less significant and he's got a bigger budget, but for me I am going to have to take this into deep consideration if the 750 won't allow me the option to add water-cooled SLI to my loop in the future. It looks like a lot less bang for the buck, but I need to know if it's a necessary expense.


----------



## Anateus

Looking for someone with overclocked i7 2600k! I applied new thermal paste and overclocked the CPU to 4.6GHz, now Im unsure if the temps are okay (they can rise up to 70*).


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Looking for someone with overclocked i7 2600k! I applied new thermal paste and overclocked the CPU to 4.6GHz, now Im unsure if the temps are okay (they can rise up to 70*).


Closest I can give you is my 4.9Ghz 1.5v 2500k that hits around 70'c with RX360 + ~1000rpm Cougars + EK Supremacy + D5.

Much better since I applied MX4 than some crappy CoolerMaster TIM (down about 5'c







)


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Looking for someone with overclocked i7 2600k! I applied new thermal paste and overclocked the CPU to 4.6GHz, now Im unsure if the temps are okay (they can rise up to 70*).


When I had my raystorm on my 2600k I had mine running at 4.5GHz at about 1.4V ish or so. not sure of exact numbers as I sold it and going off of memory. That got up to about 75 under extreme loads like P95. If yours tops at 70 at 4.6 i would say you're well in check.


----------



## Anateus

Thanks guys. Feeling safer now


----------



## lostinsurf

Hey guys,

My block has always been hard to mount. When installing the block, getting the bolts to start are pretty difficult, like they are too short. I actually have to start compressing the spring in order to get it so start. By the time, I actually have the bolts screwed tight, the block is super tight, I don't even adjust the thumb adjusters it is so tight.

I didn't really think much of it as it is the only block I have ever owned and I have only had it off a couple times but when I put together a computer for my brother with a 4690 cooled by the box cooler (my 4770k has the AX240 D5 Photon kit) his idle temps were almost the same as mine, within a degree or two. Now, load temps were a little further apart at about 15C but I started to wonder if something was wrong. Are the bolts that came with my kit too short and causing poor contact? Did Intel make changes with Devil's Canyon ( I didn't see any in the reviews about DC cooling better ) or did my brother just win the cpu lotter?

For what its worth, with the box cooler on mine I am about 4-6C warmer than his 4690. The only other difference is I have Noctua paste on mine and used the XSPC K2 on his. I have reached out to XSPC about the bolts but are waiting on them to reply.

Thanks!

Edit: After rereading some reviews it appears DC is superior in Power Draw / Cooling. Guess it pays to double check, but the question still stands about the bolt length, I generally have to ask my wife to hold the back plate because it is such a pita.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lostinsurf*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> My block has always been hard to mount. When installing the block, getting the bolts to start are pretty difficult, like they are too short. I actually have to start compressing the spring in order to get it so start. By the time, I actually have the bolts screwed tight, the block is super tight, I don't even adjust the thumb adjusters it is so tight.
> 
> I didn't really think much of it as it is the only block I have ever owned and I have only had it off a couple times but when I put together a computer for my brother with a 4690 cooled by the box cooler (my 4770k has the AX240 D5 Photon kit) his idle temps were almost the same as mine, within a degree or two. Now, load temps were a little further apart at about 15C but I started to wonder if something was wrong. Are the bolts that came with my kit too short and causing poor contact? Did Intel make changes with Devil's Canyon ( I didn't see any in the reviews about DC cooling better ) or did my brother just win the cpu lotter?
> 
> For what its worth, with the box cooler on mine I am about 4-6C warmer than his 4690. The only other difference is I have Noctua paste on mine and used the XSPC K2 on his. I have reached out to XSPC about the bolts but are waiting on them to reply.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Edit: After rereading some reviews it appears DC is superior in Power Draw / Cooling. Guess it pays to double check, but the question still stands about the bolt length, I generally have to ask my wife to hold the back plate because it is such a pita.


DC has better thermal material between the die and heatspreader. This is the reason you see so many people delidding haswell cpus. And your i7 is obviously warmer running 8 threads vs his 4 on top of comparing haswell to DC. I am not sure what to tell you about your bolt issue as I have not had any issues with mine.


----------



## lostinsurf

Yeah, I hadn't read any of the DC reviews in a while and apparently the better cooling slipped my memory until I went back and reread them. I am really not sure what to make of the mounting bolts as it really does make it a two person job now.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lostinsurf*
> 
> Yeah, I hadn't read any of the DC reviews in a while and apparently the better cooling slipped my memory until I went back and reread them. I am really not sure what to make of the mounting bolts as it really does make it a two person job now.


And the backplate is seating in the holes properly?


----------



## lostinsurf

As far as I can tell. It was tight when I had my 1100T. Looking through my case window, it looks as though the springs are fully compressed, if not fully, than really close.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timstuff*
> 
> That's somewhat concerning, and I'd like to know the answer to this as well. I was planning to get 750 pumps for me and my brother's rig upgrades because the D5 pumps are so much more expensive, but I'd like some advice on the wisdom of that, because I want the option of being able to expand in the future without needing a new pump. I was originally only planning to run one GPU on water at some point in the future, but after hearing about the changes being made to SLI in DirectX 12, a second GPU is sounding like a much more attractive feature. Is a 750 pump going to be enough to power a 280mm rad, water blocks for a CPU and potentially two GPUs, and a 120mm rad? I don't think just the CPU and one GPU would be a problem with a 750 pump, but I really need to know whether or not I will be kicking myself in the pants down the road by not just sucking it up and spending the extra $100 and getting a D5.
> 
> For some reason, with the 360mm x 56mm rad kits, the D5 version is only $60 more than the 750 versions. For the 280mm kits (the kind that will actually fit in my system), the difference between the 750 kit and the D5 kit is $100. It might be an easier choice for my brother to make with his rig as to which he'd rather buy since the price jump is less significant and he's got a bigger budget, but for me I am going to have to take this into deep consideration if the 750 won't allow me the option to add water-cooled SLI to my loop in the future. It looks like a lot less bang for the buck, but I need to know if it's a necessary expense.


If I were you I would spend the extra $ and get this kit: http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-raystorm-extreme-universal-cpu-watercooling-kit-w-rx240-rev-3-radiator-d5-pump-res.html#Specifications, for the extra $ you get a D5 pump (the only pump you will probably every need), an RX radiator (56mm thick vs. EX's 35mm), and compression instead of barb fittings. If you get the 750 kit and decide to upgrade the pump later on you will end up spending at least this much or probably more, unless you manage to sell the old 750 pump for $50 or so, and it will still cost $100 to upgrade. So really the pump alone justifies the extra cost, but also you get a better radiator and fittings.

Unfortunately it seems they don't have this kit in the 280mm rad version. But one thing to keep in mind is that 120mm fans generally have better static pressure than their 140mm counterparts so the extra rad space afforded by the 140mm radiator versions isn't fully realized, and a 240mm rad should perform just as good as a 280mm radiator.
I took the cheap route with the 750 pump, and EX Rad when I first got my kit about a year ago, and now I am looking to replace the pump and the radiator, so....


----------



## pc-illiterate

a 240mm rad wont cool as well as a 280mm rad. there are plenty of good 140mm rad fans available.
the rx is only a very good radiator at low speeds. its not that great of a radiator otherwise.



build your own kit or settle for 240/360 rads. good and cheaper basic kit will cost you about $350 + shipping for cpu only with 280 rad
using used parts will of course cut down costs.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> a 240mm rad wont cool as well as a 280mm rad. there are plenty of good 140mm rad fans available.
> the rx is only a very good radiator at low speeds. its not that great of a radiator otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> build your own kit or settle for 240/360 rads. good and cheaper basic kit will cost you about $350 + shipping for cpu only with 280 rad
> using used parts will of course cut down costs.


I don't like the light in which they paint the EX rads. I have a feeling they had a V1 rad. I think the new EX V2's are a lot better than that.


----------



## pc-illiterate

sure its version 1. if you think its going to make a big difference with it being optimized for low speed fans, just like the rx v3 rad, then dont pay attention. you dont like the results? dont pay attention. fact is, the ex is not a good performer. there are better slim rads. it will not beat a nemesis gts which is the best thin rad, so far.

if you have problems or questions with the results, post your concerns in the thread here or at extremerigs.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1542405/extreme-rigs-radiator-review-round-up-2015-group-a
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> a 240mm rad wont cool as well as a 280mm rad. there are plenty of good 140mm rad fans available.
> the rx is only a very good radiator at low speeds. its not that great of a radiator otherwise.


I personally have a 420mm radiator so I have no qualms with 140mm in general. But fan selection is a lot smaller, and generally the 140mm fans have lower static pressure. Case in point the Corsair SP120 vs. the SP140.



Another example. I wanted a 140mm PWM fan with Red Leds. That only gives me two options: Bgears b-PWM 140 or Bitfenix Spectre PWM. I went with the Bgears, and it turned out to be a terrible fan. http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007998%20600035698%20600035592&IsNodeId=1&bop=And&SrchInDesc=PWM&Page=1&PageSize=30
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> build your own kit or settle for 240/360 rads. good and cheaper basic kit will cost you about $350 + shipping for cpu only with 280 rad
> using used parts will of course cut down costs.


The 280mm kit with D5 pump is only $270, and the 360mm and 420mm versions are still under $300.


----------



## pc-illiterate

bitfenix are trash on rads.
corsair isnt worth the time. better fans for 140mm.
an ex280 kit isnt worth it. good but cheap cpu block. need to replace the tubing. stuck with a bayres.
sure there are 360 and 420 kits. his case supports a 280mm rad. btw, the photon res isnt all that great. it has its own problems.
thing is, what someone wants, someone will get. thats why actual crap gets sold and bought every day of every week of every year. not calling any of this crap though...


----------



## Timstuff

If I need a bigger res in my system, I could always add one to my loop in the future, at least if I'm using a D5 pump. I don't mind having a bay res in addition to a tube res, since that means I can still see my coolant level from the front of the case, and I like the look of a bay res.

I didn't notice that the D5 kit had compression fittings, and that makes the price seem a bit more justifiable. My budget might also be a bit bigger that I initially thought, so I may just pull the trigger and go for the D5 kit. In the future I can add either a 120mm rad or a 248mm rad to the floor of my C70. I'm not too worried about the 140mm fan selection-- I was going to get a pair of SP140s and put them in push configuration, controlled by a Corsair Link Commander Mini.

I've seen people mount 360mm rads in the C70, but this always seemed like a bad idea to me. Unless you mod the case, the radiator is not going to breathe properly since it is partially covered. I would rather just get the 280mm rad since that's what the case was made for.


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lostinsurf*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> My block has always been hard to mount. When installing the block, getting the bolts to start are pretty difficult, like they are too short. I actually have to start compressing the spring in order to get it so start. By the time, I actually have the bolts screwed tight, the block is super tight, I don't even adjust the thumb adjusters it is so tight.
> 
> I didn't really think much of it as it is the only block I have ever owned and I have only had it off a couple times but when I put together a computer for my brother with a 4690 cooled by the box cooler (my 4770k has the AX240 D5 Photon kit) his idle temps were almost the same as mine, within a degree or two. Now, load temps were a little further apart at about 15C but I started to wonder if something was wrong. Are the bolts that came with my kit too short and causing poor contact? Did Intel make changes with Devil's Canyon ( I didn't see any in the reviews about DC cooling better ) or did my brother just win the cpu lotter?
> 
> For what its worth, with the box cooler on mine I am about 4-6C warmer than his 4690. The only other difference is I have Noctua paste on mine and used the XSPC K2 on his. I have reached out to XSPC about the bolts but are waiting on them to reply.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Edit: After rereading some reviews it appears DC is superior in Power Draw / Cooling. Guess it pays to double check, but the question still stands about the bolt length, I generally have to ask my wife to hold the back plate because it is such a pita.


I had this issue with my I5-2500K and I7-2600K and the XSPC Raystorm block and Gigabyte Z68XP-UD4 board.
Paul from XSPC recommended a different backplate and FCPU was kind enough to send it to me for free.
This is what I use now http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13301/ex-swi-34/Swiftech_Socket_1155_1156_Motherboard_Back_Plate_S1156-BP.html?tl=g30c85s1869


----------



## Anateus

I had some small difficulties while mounting it for the first time to Asus Maximus IV Extreme and i7 2600k. But now, I can take it off, reapply the paste, and put it back really quickly. Just need to get used to it.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timstuff*
> 
> If I need a bigger res in my system, I could always add one to my loop in the future, at least if I'm using a D5 pump. I don't mind having a bay res in addition to a tube res, since that means I can still see my coolant level from the front of the case, and I like the look of a bay res.
> 
> I didn't notice that the D5 kit had compression fittings, and that makes the price seem a bit more justifiable. My budget might also be a bit bigger that I initially thought, so I may just pull the trigger and go for the D5 kit. In the future I can add either a 120mm rad or a 248mm rad to the floor of my C70. I'm not too worried about the 140mm fan selection-- I was going to get a pair of SP140s and put them in push configuration, controlled by a Corsair Link Commander Mini.
> 
> I've seen people mount 360mm rads in the C70, but this always seemed like a bad idea to me. Unless you mod the case, the radiator is not going to breathe properly since it is partially covered. I would rather just get the 280mm rad since that's what the case was made for.


You could get one of these: http://www.performance-pcs.com/koolance-radiator-mounting-bracket-with-quick-release.html



They are kind of expensive but it would allow you to use a larger radiator. Also you get the best cooling performance using an external radiator as you get cool air on the radiators intake side, and you exhaust the hot air outside of the case as well. Some people think mounting the radiator outside of the case is ugly, but I think it looks fine when mounted on the backs side, so long as the radiator is approximately the same height as your case. Mounting to the middle fan position looks dumb, but if you mount to the top it looks fine. The bracket isnice too. It has quick disconnect system so half of it is attached to the case and then part of it is attached to the radiator. Then you just snap the radiator on and off the case, which is useful when you need to drain or bleed the loop, or change or clean the fans. Just note its made to mount to the 120mm fan mount, so if your case or radiator is 140mm you will need the adapter bracket they sell for. Here's my case using the mount and adapter bracket:


----------



## Timstuff

I really don't like the look of an external rad, and I think it kind of defeats the purpose of keeping your PC inside of a case: to protect it from damage. I bought the Vengeance C70 because it's an easy case to lift and move around. Moving around a PC with an external radiator sounds like a pain and I know something is going to get damaged at some point. I'm sure that the performance of external radiators is amazing, but in terms of aesthetics they're very 2008-looking-- the dark ages when for most cases, external mounting was your only option for anything bigger than a single fan rad. I'll put up with things running a few degrees hotter if it means all of my parts are inside my case.


----------



## RnRollie

I wouldn't say an external rad has to look "bad" ....


----------



## SteezyTN

External rads and placement can look beautiful. It just depends on the rad, tubing, and case.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> I wouldn't say an external rad has to look "bad" ....


thats also a $200 rad not a $60 cheap 240mm/280mm


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> thats also a $200 rad not a $60 cheap 240mm/280mm


$60 - 240mm (4mm/1$)
$200 - 1080mm (5,4mm/1$)

So its cheaper than a cheap rad









Btw. how is the performance of such thing? 3x3x120mm looks fancy.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> I wouldn't say an external rad has to look "bad" ....


I want to see someone do a build like that in a more modern looking case with exterior hard line tubing. Any second votes?


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> I want to see someone do a build like that in a more modern looking case with exterior hard line tubing. Any second votes?


Stahp. My next summer build will be done using hard line tubing.


----------



## SteezyTN

Can anyone tell me the best way to clean a loop, and while the tubing is still connected. All the tubing is red, but my drain port tubing is clear. IVe noticed that the clear tubing has become cloudy. I use distilled water and dead water.

I just don't want to take the loop down, due to a crossthreaded port on my photon pump. I'm scared to damage it more. Frozencpu let me send it in, and they retapped it for me.


----------



## pc-illiterate

almost all clear tubing clouds. if thats the only reason you want to clean your loop, its not really a good reason.


----------



## Timstuff

Is it the water that's becoming cloudy, or is the tube itself fogging up? Does this go back to the whole "clear tubing a/ colored coolant" vs "colored tubing with clear water" debate?


----------



## SteezyTN

Well I'm just scared to see if I'm getting any blockage in my blocks and what not. The tubing is getting cloudy, but the water in my reservoir is very clear water looking. Just distilled water.


----------



## LandonAaron

I purchased an MCP50X, and I am either going to use it in series behind my X20 or just use the X20 as a reservoir. If I disconnect the power on my X20 bay res pump, and just use it as a reservoir where should I connect the MCP50X? Should I plug the outlet port and connect to the spare port, or just connect it to the outlet port just like I would if the pump was in use?



Here is the planned setup:


----------



## pc-illiterate

Use the spare port. It's the lowest point in the res you can connect to. Also, I would use only the 50x


----------



## Ghostrider5666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I purchased an MCP50X, and I am either going to use it in series behind my X20 or just use the X20 as a reservoir. If I disconnect the power on my X20 bay res pump, and just use it as a reservoir where should I connect the MCP50X? Should I plug the outlet port and connect to the spare port, or just connect it to the outlet port just like I would if the pump was in use?
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the planned setup:


I have one and was wounder if the pump can be removed completely? I plan on buying a D5 but not sure if I want a pump top or just the pump.


----------



## LandonAaron

Well I added the second pump, and second radiator this weekend, and switched from universal GPU block to full cover block for my R9 290x, and will be adding a full cover r9 290 probably this weekend. All in all it went pretty good. I ended up connecting the MCP50X to the outlet on the X20 and running the two pumps in series. The MCP50X is louder than I would like but it has PWM control so it isn't that big deal, especially since I am running two pumps, I can turn down the MCP50X all the way to 5% and still have plenty of flow.

One thing that disappointed me though is that it seems my water temps (measured at the reservoir) have gone up a couple degrees. Went from 24-26C on average to 26-28C. I am guessing this is from the heat dump of the second pump. Despite the higher temps of the water my CPU load temp has gone down about 7 degrees. I am guessing this has more to do with the increased flow from the second pump, than from the extra cooling from adding a second radiator. Though really its probably a combination of the two.

I am going to experiment hooking the pumps up to a toggle switch to see what combination of pumps gets me the best cooling.


----------



## pc-illiterate

ddc type pumps do not dump heat into the loop. that is the d5 pumps. ddc pumps are air cooled, the pcb at the bottom of the pump is what gets hot, and d5 pumps are water cooled.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> ddc type pumps do not dump heat into the loop. that is the d5 pumps. ddc pumps are air cooled, the pcb at the bottom of the pump is what gets hot, and d5 pumps are water cooled.


I don't think the MCP50X is a DDC pump. It doesn't accept DDC tops and has a different propeller. Also, it doesn't need a heatsink.


----------



## KoNLaR

My first custom loop finished!

Specs here: http://pcpartpicker.com/b/wsZ8TW

What do you guys think? Any questions just ask!


----------



## LandonAaron

A first time custom loop shouldn't look so good. Please come back with something more dumpy. Also, are you using beer as your coolant? There looks to be some head in your reservoir in the first shot.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I don't think the MCP50X is a DDC pump. It doesn't accept DDC tops and has a different propeller. Also, it doesn't need a heatsink.


The 50x is a ddc pump. It's swiftechs ddc not liangs ddc. Swiftech said they will be making tops for it soon...


----------



## theSarcoplasmic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> The 50x is a ddc pump. It's swiftechs ddc not liangs ddc. Swiftech said they will be making tops for it soon...


Take care on that second part of the statement.

PPC offered the MCP35X pump top with it, I bought one, found out it isn't compatible. It's sitting here next to me right now....


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theSarcoplasmic*
> 
> Take care on that second part of the statement.
> 
> PPC offered the MCP35X pump top with it, I bought one, found out it isn't compatible. It's sitting here next to me right now....


Yeah I saw that deal on PPC. Fortunately I had already done some research on the 50X so I knew no pump tops were available, otherwise I likely would have fallen in the same trap.


----------



## theSarcoplasmic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Yeah I saw that deal on PPC. Fortunately I had already done some research on the 50X so I knew no pump tops were available, otherwise I likely would have fallen in the same trap.


Lucky you, it was my first loop too. Lessons for next time.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoNLaR*
> 
> My first custom loop finished!
> 
> Specs here: http://pcpartpicker.com/b/wsZ8TW
> 
> What do you guys think? Any questions just ask!


What a fantastic looking bulid! I am such a sucker for EVGA's Hydro Copper series. Great job!


----------



## chillidog

ok guys i would need your opinion on this idea i got ,don't forget am quite new to custom loop as yous might know , i have fitted XSPC RayStorm D5 EX360 in my system and i got to say am quite happy with it on idle i get 27 and full while gaming 55-58 c. depending on room temp
i have not got the gpu block as yet still saving,but i was woundering while i got space for an 360 rad in the front of 900d case,would i see much off any benefit of placing an 360 rad at the front of the case/ minus (gpu). would i see much off a drop in temps ? would the D5 Dual Bay Reservoir pump cope? like in the pic below (my paint drawing is not up to scratch)


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> ok guys i would need your opinion on this idea i got ,don't forget am quite new to custom loop as yous might know , i have fitted XSPC RayStorm D5 EX360 in my system and i got to say am quite happy with it on idle i get 27 and full while gaming 55-58 c. depending on room temp
> i have not got the gpu block as yet still saving,but i was woundering while i got space for an 360 rad in the front of 900d case,would i see much off any benefit of placing an 360 rad at the front of the case/ minus (gpu). would i see much off a drop in temps ? would the D5 Dual Bay Reservoir pump cope? like in the pic below (my paint drawing is not up to scratch)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The only improvement would be the ability to run your fans at a lower RPM while still maintaining good cooling due to the added rad space. The other advantage might be it will look good with all that rad space in there but this is a lot of work to go through for looks, then again this is OCN...


----------



## LandonAaron

Most rads won't let you run you tubing like you have in you paint drawing. Usually the in and out are on the same end of the rad, with maybe a drain port on the other end. The water flows to one end of the rad then back to the other and out.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Most rads won't let you run you tubing like you have in you paint drawing. Usually the in and out are on the same end of the rad, with maybe a drain port on the other end. The water flows to one end of the rad then back to the other and out.


the pic was only intended as a rough idea but their is quite a few rads out there with in and out at top and bottom like this XSPC EX360 Crossflow Radiator or the EK CoolStream RAD XTX 360 as a ex-sample


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> ok guys i would need your opinion on this idea i got ,don't forget am quite new to custom loop as yous might know , i have fitted XSPC RayStorm D5 EX360 in my system and i got to say am quite happy with it on idle i get 27 and full while gaming 55-58 c. depending on room temp
> i have not got the gpu block as yet still saving,but i was woundering while i got space for an 360 rad in the front of 900d case,would i see much off any benefit of placing an 360 rad at the front of the case/ minus (gpu). would i see much off a drop in temps ? would the D5 Dual Bay Reservoir pump cope? like in the pic below (my paint drawing is not up to scratch)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only improvement would be the ability to run your fans at a lower RPM while still maintaining good cooling due to the added rad space. The other advantage might be it will look good with all that rad space in there but this is a lot of work to go through for looks, then again this is OCN...
Click to expand...

if by chance it would knock of a few degree's off the temp i be happy for the time being as i was thinking later when i get the gpu block i might have two loops going .the top rad/ with the D5 Dual Bay Reservoir pump for the cpu with red coolant and the gpu with an other pump/reseroir on the front rad/fans and coolant in white


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> if by chance it would knock of a few degree's off the temp i be happy for the time being as i was thinking later when i get the gpu block i might have two loops going .the top rad/ with the D5 Dual Bay Reservoir pump for the cpu with red coolant and the gpu with an other pump/reseroir on the front rad/fans and coolant in white


I would just do one loop, and use red and white tubing, unless your just looking for ways to fill up that 900D. No need for two loops the D5 has enough power, and when you have one loop you get to better utilize all your rad space, cause generally either you CPU will be running hot or your GPU will. Rarely will you have them both maxed simultaneously. So when just your CPU is running hot you basically have 2 rads cooling it, vs if you have two separate loops you will just have the one rad for the CPU.


----------



## SteezyTN

In using the Photon 170 D5 pump combo, and I had it running through an RX360 v3, RX240 v3, EX240, Raystorm CPU Block, and two EK-FC780 waterblocks. The pump was running at 2.5-3.5. At level 5, it's so much power. You could probably run more than 6 or 7 radiators and still have enough power.


----------



## Subby

So my "XSPC Nylon Dual 5.25 Reservoir for Laing D5 V2 - Black" started leaking, after examining the resevoir I found the leak coming from the clear plastic part that you stick the LED light into, it is cracked. Not to happy about that, just emailed XSPC so we'll see what they say.


----------



## Subby

so XSPC support was of no help. They just said out of warranty. When asked where I could get the little stock replacement piece (since they don't sell directly to US I guess) they just said maybe one of their retailers does. So I tried a couple and none sell it. So going to have to buy a new $60 res since the $3 piece broke on mine. Going with Primochill, no more XSPC for me.


----------



## Timstuff

Is there any way you might be able to repair it yourself?


----------



## Subby

possibly, but I don't know what thread it is. Could also maybe just replace the part with a bunch of rubber cement or something as well.


----------



## Anateus

Just pour some superglue into the led slot. AFAIK its damaged pretty often (mostly when people push LED too hard). Thats why warranty doesnt cover it. Anyway, its a good reason to get yourself a tube res.


----------



## SteezyTN

XSPC service is terrible. The only thing I will ever buy from them are reservoirs, or the D5 Photon. I just hope my photon pump doesn't break in the next 2-3 years. Every time I contacted support, Flora (or was it Fiona?) seemed to have no knowledge of the products. XSPC is no help in the need of an RMA. A thread on my pump came crossthreaded (I did not do it), and they told me it was user error.. How...? I should've taken pictures when I opened the package up for the first time. Geoff from FrozenCPU let me send it in and they retapped it for me FREE OF CHARGE.

I have never dealt with EK before, but I will only buy from them when I need waterblocks.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> XSPC service is terrible. The only thing I will ever buy from them are reservoirs, or the D5 Photon. I just hope my photon pump doesn't break in the next 2-3 years. Every time I contacted support, Flora (or was it Fiona?) seemed to have no knowledge of the products. XSPC is no help in the need of an RMA. A thread on my pump came crossthreaded (I did not do it), and they told me it was user error.. How...? I should've taken pictures when I opened the package up for the first time. Geoff from FrozenCPU let me send it in and they retapped it for me FREE OF CHARGE.
> 
> I have never dealt with EK before, but I will only buy from them when I need waterblocks.


EK seems to have good service. I haven't actually taken advantage of it, but they have a presence here at OCN and were very quick to answer my questions and get me pointed in the right direction. I ended up fixing my part myself with Epoxy. I had stripped two of the ports on my block...


----------



## KoNLaR

Brand new setup and some better pictures then I posted earlier, specs can be found here







https://pcpartpicker.com/b/wsZ8TW


----------



## Timstuff

I DID IT! I just pulled the trigger on the D5 AX240 kit over at Performance PCs! It's been a long time coming but i am finally ready to join the custom loop club! I am eagerly awaiting its arrival!


----------



## KoNLaR

Just fixed the gpu sag


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoNLaR*
> 
> Just fixed the gpu sag


What did you do? Wondering if it was as ghetto as my fix. I cut up a plastic credit card and taped it to the underside of the GPU water block and let it rest against that sata ports to help hold it up. You can't see it unless have your head level with the PSU and look up which no-one would ever do.


----------



## SteezyTN

My cards sagged when I was running a single card and 2 in SLI. Once I added them to water, I also ordered EK backplates. Those backplates are wonderful. From what I see, the backplate being used in the above photos are the EVGA backplate. To my understanding, the EVGA backplate has holes (gaps) thoughout the plate, meaning that it isn't as sturdy as the EK backplates, which is solid. Does that make sense?


----------



## Timstuff

I ghetto-fixed a sagging GPU once using a pencil wrapped in black electrical tape.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> My cards sagged when I was running a single card and 2 in SLI. Once I added them to water, I also ordered EK backplates. Those backplates are wonderful. From what I see, the backplate being used in the above photos are the EVGA backplate. To my understanding, the EVGA backplate has holes (gaps) thoughout the plate, meaning that it isn't as sturdy as the EK backplates, which is solid. Does that make sense?


I think the problem me and Konlar had wasn't that the backplates aren't keeping the cards straight but that the cards slant downwards towards the front of the case which the backplate doesn't help with. I have ek backplates on mine.


----------



## KoNLaR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> What did you do? Wondering if it was as ghetto as my fix. I cut up a plastic credit card and taped it to the underside of the GPU water block and let it rest against that sata ports to help hold it up. You can't see it unless have your head level with the PSU and look up which no-one would ever do.


I used the AMD Backplate from the CPU and made it sit on the fitting and Res making it push the card up.


----------



## KoNLaR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> My cards sagged when I was running a single card and 2 in SLI. Once I added them to water, I also ordered EK backplates. Those backplates are wonderful. From what I see, the backplate being used in the above photos are the EVGA backplate. To my understanding, the EVGA backplate has holes (gaps) thoughout the plate, meaning that it isn't as sturdy as the EK backplates, which is solid. Does that make sense?


I think its more about what waterblock you have one, the Hydro Copper was atleast very heavy.
Sure makes sense what you said, but I think it wouldnt helped me much cause the PCIe Port was bending aswell.


----------



## BanditPlunderer

Getting a rig with AMD processor (AMD FX-9590 4.70 GHz (5.0GHz Turbo) Eight-Core AM3+ CPU 8MB L2 Cache & Turbo Core Technology) and AMD GPU ( R9 295X2 Dual GPUs 8GB GDDR5 PCIe 3.0 x16 Video Card)
and wondering if the XSPC RAYSTORM D5 PHOTON AX 360 WATERCOOLER KIT added on with Enermax Twister Pressure 120mm fans push-pull will cool these babies; particularly the processor, and hopefully will not give me any problems.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BanditPlunderer*
> 
> 
> Getting a rig with AMD processor (AMD FX-9590 4.70 GHz (5.0GHz Turbo) Eight-Core AM3+ CPU 8MB L2 Cache & Turbo Core Technology) and AMD GPU ( R9 295X2 Dual GPUs 8GB GDDR5 PCIe 3.0 x16 Video Card)
> and wondering if the XSPC RAYSTORM D5 PHOTON AX 360 WATERCOOLER KIT added on with Enermax Twister Pressure 120mm fans push-pull will cool these babies; particularly the processor, and hopefully will not give me any problems.


That will work great for the processor, but you would need to find a waterblock for the 295x2 unless you just want to keep it on its AIO. Instead of thr 295x2 maybe look into 8GB 290x's or even regular 290x's. I just don't like dual gpu cards much since they ft end to clock lower than seperatly cards and I don't know if you can disable crossfire for games that may have issues with crossfire. But if the price is right it's definitely a good card just saying.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BanditPlunderer*
> 
> 
> Getting a rig with AMD processor (AMD FX-9590 4.70 GHz (5.0GHz Turbo) Eight-Core AM3+ CPU 8MB L2 Cache & Turbo Core Technology) and AMD GPU ( R9 295X2 Dual GPUs 8GB GDDR5 PCIe 3.0 x16 Video Card)
> and wondering if the XSPC RAYSTORM D5 PHOTON AX 360 WATERCOOLER KIT added on with Enermax Twister Pressure 120mm fans push-pull will cool these babies; particularly the processor, and hopefully will not give me any problems.


The radiator will cool the CPU. If your going for 2 x R9 295X and the CPU you will need more rads and One huge power supply. I have 9590 and 3 XR9 290X My rads 1x280 -1x240 Monster 80MM 1x 120 - dual D5 pumps . My temps at full throttle never over 65C . Also had to upgrade Power supply from 1350W to 1500W. Look for a fan to cool the VRM region of the motherboard also. The VRMs are going to get steamy with the 9590. Good luck


----------



## Timstuff

If my understanding is correct, you ideally want 240mm of radiator for your CPU, and at least 120mm of radiator for each GPU that you intend to have in your system. Since the R9 295x2 has two GPUs, you are going to want at least 480mm of radiator. If you can't fit a 480mm rad in your case, then you are going to want either two 240mm rads, or a 360mm rad + a 120mm rad. The more radiator you can reasonably fit into your case the better, especially with AMD CPUs since they run hotter than Intel.

On a side note, I have been working on my Raystorm loop this week and the temps I'm getting are insane. On my Corsair H80i cooler, I had to downclock my i7 3770K because it would idle at around 45-50° and go well over 90° under load, and sometimes even reach 100° if I had it clocked to 4.5 GHz. It was way too close to the TJ Max to be safe. The Ivybridge Intel processors are a lot hotter than their current-gen counterparts, but even with that in mind, on my custom loop using a D5 pump and an AX240, I have it clocked to a stable 4.5 GHz with idle temps around 29-32°, and under full load running Prime 95 it doesn't get above 52°. Those temps are ridiculously low, even compared running my 3770K at just 4.2 GHz on the H80i. Needless to say, I'm quite impressed! I have so much overhead that I could easily go higher than that, but I'd rather have my fans run slower for quieter performance. Also, if I toss a GPU or two into my loop in the future, it will be nice to have more wiggle room.


----------



## Timstuff

Here's some pics of my Raystorm build!


----------



## SteezyTN

So I just got my order in from PPCS containing a crap load of fittings and Mayhems pastel and blitz products. I ordered five 90 degree XSPC fittings (4 black chrome and 1 chrome because they were out of order on the chrome). All of the black chrome fittings wiggle at the rotary part. Not the chrome. I have a few other black chrome 90's that I ordered in the past, and they are all sturdy. Will those 90's that wiggle leak when I fill it up. I already emailed PPCS, but who knows. I use an air leak pressure gauge instead of water leak testing it, so I'm not worried about that.


----------



## taowulf

I've had a Raystorm a few years now, it was originally cooling a E6850 and when I switched to a FX-6350, I picked up the AMD mounting kit.

Great waterblock, but I am thinking my next one will be as much of a full cover block as I can get.

Oh, apparently I am on the list already, completely forgot I posted here before.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I just got my order in from PPCS containing a crap load of fittings and Mayhems pastel and blitz products. I ordered five 90 degree XSPC fittings (4 black chrome and 1 chrome because they were out of order on the chrome). All of the black chrome fittings wiggle at the rotary part. Not the chrome. I have a few other black chrome 90's that I ordered in the past, and they are all sturdy. Will those 90's that wiggle leak when I fill it up. I already emailed PPCS, but who knows. I use an air leak pressure gauge instead of water leak testing it, so I'm not worried about that.


Using two 90's and two 45's for nearly a year, done in two loops. No leaks. And they look great.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Using two 90's and two 45's for nearly a year, done in two loops. No leaks. And they look great.


But I'm saying that I have a total of about 15 rotary 90's. With the new order tha got delivered, 4 of them wiggle at the rotary


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> But I'm saying that I have a total of about 15 rotary 90's. With the new order tha got delivered, 4 of them wiggle at the rotary


Two years ago, I ordered 2 rotaries...one leaked right off of the bat. So yeah, it is something to consider when planning to use rotaries in your loop. Just my luck to have a 50% failure rate.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I just got my order in from PPCS containing a crap load of fittings and Mayhems pastel and blitz products. I ordered five 90 degree XSPC fittings (4 black chrome and 1 chrome because they were out of order on the chrome). All of the black chrome fittings wiggle at the rotary part. Not the chrome. I have a few other black chrome 90's that I ordered in the past, and they are all sturdy. Will those 90's that wiggle leak when I fill it up. I already emailed PPCS, but who knows. I use an air leak pressure gauge instead of water leak testing it, so I'm not worried about that.


I have 8 or 9 of the chrome rotary ones. About 4 each of the 45's and 90's. None of them wiggle they are all tight at the rotary joint. I have two alphacool dual rotary 90's, and they both wiggle at one of the rotary joints, but only one of them leaks. Also the one that leaks only leaks if the line connected to it is pulling at it. If the line connected to it has enough slack that it pushes on the fitting it doesn't leak. I still pulled it from my loop cause I didn't trust it. I have never owned the black ones but if they are different from the your other black ones, I say return them.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I have 8 or 9 of the chrome rotary ones. About 4 each of the 45's and 90's. None of them wiggle they are all tight at the rotary joint. I have two alphacool dual rotary 90's, and they both wiggle at one of the rotary joints, but only one of them leaks. Also the one that leaks only leaks if the line connected to it is pulling at it. If the line connected to it has enough slack that it pushes on the fitting it doesn't leak. I still pulled it from my loop cause I didn't trust it. I have never owned the black ones but if they are different from the your other black ones, I say return them.


My regular chrome ones are fine. I have about 3 or 4 of the black chrome from previous orders, and they are fine. But the order that I placed last week (which was delivered last night), they all seem to wiggle. I emailed ppcs and I'm still waiting for a response.


----------



## Timstuff

I slowed down my D5 pump from 5 to 2, and I only got about 1-2ºC hotter temps while running Prime 95. More importantly, the system is much, much quieter now. I might even try it on 1 at some point.









I am loving my Raystorm build so far. Everything is so much quieter than when I was using an AIO. Seriously, the loudest thing in my system right now (next to the GPU fans during gaming) is the D5 pump, because my fans don't need to spin fast at all to keep my CPU nice and chilly. I should mention though that I didn't bother with the stock fans from XSPC and am using Corsair SP120's, because I had some from my previous build and also the ones included with the kit did not inspire a lot of confidence.

The only thing about my system right now that is still noisy is my Galaxy GTX 680 during gaming sessions. It's so much louder than the rest of my system that it's almost enough to make me consider replacing it with a water-cooled GTX 980 rather than wait for the GTX 1K series. I'm doing my best to be patient though, because performance wise the 680 is still a great card.

Also, I can give a pretty solid endorsement for Performance PCs. The shipping costs were a lot better than I was expecting from the reputation they have, there was nothing missing or damaged in my order, and my order arrived within about 3-4 days from when I ordered (I got the cheapest shipping option from Fed Ex).


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timstuff*
> 
> I slowed down my D5 pump from 5 to 2, and I only got about 1-2ºC hotter temps while running Prime 95. More importantly, the system is much, much quieter now. I might even try it on 1 at some point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am loving my Raystorm build so far. Everything is so much quieter than when I was using an AIO. Seriously, the loudest thing in my system right now (next to the GPU fans during gaming) is the D5 pump, because my fans don't need to spin fast at all to keep my CPU nice and chilly. I should mention though that I didn't bother with the stock fans from XSPC and am using Corsair SP120's, because I had some from my previous build and also the ones included with the kit did not inspire a lot of confidence.
> 
> The only thing about my system right now that is still noisy is my Galaxy GTX 680 during gaming sessions. It's so much louder than the rest of my system that it's almost enough to make me consider replacing it with a water-cooled GTX 980 rather than wait for the GTX 1K series. I'm doing my best to be patient though, because performance wise the 680 is still a great card.
> 
> Also, I can give a pretty solid endorsement for Performance PCs. The shipping costs were a lot better than I was expecting from the reputation they have, there was nothing missing or damaged in my order, and my order arrived within about 3-4 days from when I ordered (I got the cheapest shipping option from Fed Ex).


Did you get the 120 or 140 XSPC fans? The 140 ones are actually pretty good fans. Max RPM at about 1400 RPM and min RPM of 500, and have a pretty linear response curve in between. Even at full speed they are quiet. I would definitely hold onto them in case you find some use for them in the future.

Here is the Asus Quick Fan results of their response curve:


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Did you get the 120 or 140 XSPC fans? The 140 ones are actually pretty good fans. Max RPM at about 1400 RPM and min RPM of 500, and have a pretty linear response curve in between. Even at full speed they are quiet. I would definitely hold onto them in case you find some use for them in the future.
> 
> Here is the Asus Quick Fan results of their response curve:


Also if you want to consider jumping to the Red Team 290's and 290'x can be found for crazy cheap right now. Like less than 250 in some cases. Get you two of those and you got more performance than a Titan X.


----------



## Timstuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Did you get the 120 or 140 XSPC fans? The 140 ones are actually pretty good fans. Max RPM at about 1400 RPM and min RPM of 500, and have a pretty linear response curve in between. Even at full speed they are quiet. I would definitely hold onto them in case you find some use for them in the future.
> 
> Here is the Asus Quick Fan results of their response curve:


I got the 120mm fans.I rarely get rid of stuff like fans so I've got them stashed away in my misc. PC parts box.


----------



## techjesse

Here's my RayStorm


----------



## SteezyTN

One more piece of tubing and I'll put the Mayhems ice white coolant in







what do you guys thank?


----------



## Ithanul

Hmmm, something about those bends at the bottom right look off, especially that 90 degree one from res to radiator.


----------



## LandonAaron

Bends look alright to me. Good job. You got enough rads for 2nd gpu...


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Hmmm, something about those bends at the bottom right look off, especially that 90 degree one from res to radiator.


I'm going to try and work on that one connected to the pump. It will most likely get changed. I tried to match it up evenly to just use one 90 degree bend, so I used 3 90 degree fittings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Bends look alright to me. Good job. You got enough rads for 2nd gpu...


I may pick up a second Titan X. Not sure though. These three dads were pushing it close when I had 2 780's.


----------



## SteezyTN

https://youtu.be/n9aXOZAHK4A

My XSPC Photon was not making this sound last night. I'm currently running mayhems Part 2 for the 24 hours, and I woke up to this.

Before I installed the loop, I removed the soft padding that prevent vibrating on the back of the mount, but I added thick 3M padded tape. Is it possible that I missed a piece and its vibrating off the metal of my case? Or is my pump going out? Never ever heard this before.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> https://youtu.be/n9aXOZAHK4A
> 
> My XSPC Photon was not making this sound last night. I'm currently running mayhems Part 2 for the 24 hours, and I woke up to this.
> 
> Before I installed the loop, I removed the soft padding that prevent vibrating on the back of the mount, but I added thick 3M padded tape. Is it possible that I missed a piece and its vibrating off the metal of my case? Or is my pump going out? Never ever heard this before.


Do you mean the clicking sound. All I got out of the video sound wise was a click and if it was an amplified click could be air in the loop. If it is just a loud click Never heard that either and I own 2 D5 pumps.Also the pumps are strong and can cause vibration sound in the case mine does it from time to time. After a refill until all the air is gone out of the loop.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Do you mean the clicking sound. All I got out of the video sound wise was a click and if it was an amplified click could be air in the loop. If it is just a loud click Never heard that either and I own 2 D5 pumps.Also the pumps are strong and can cause vibration sound in the case mine does it from time to time. After a refill until all the air is gone out of the loop.


The pump is even on 1 of 5, and its never sounded like that. I just woke up to it. I know the quality isn't that good in the video, so my apologies.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> The pump is even on 1 of 5, and its never sounded like that. I just woke up to it. I know the quality isn't that good in the video, so my apologies.


Try upping the pump to 3 or higher. Maybe its kicking out for some reason. Otherwise I would think the pump is bad.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Try upping the pump to 3 or higher. Maybe its kicking out for some reason. Otherwise I would think the pump is bad.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Do you mean the clicking sound. All I got out of the video sound wise was a click and if it was an amplified click could be air in the loop. If it is just a loud click Never heard that either and I own 2 D5 pumps.Also the pumps are strong and can cause vibration sound in the case mine does it from time to time. After a refill until all the air is gone out of the loop.


Turns out that it was the fluid in my loop. I was running Mayhems Part 2 to get it ready for some pastel. All the foam was making that sound (which was weird because after a few hours, I could no longer see foam). There must've been foam only in the pump part. Once I flushed it out with distilled, the sound went back to normal. Running Patel ice white now, and almost silent


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Turns out that it was the fluid in my loop. I was running Mayhems Part 2 to get it ready for some pastel. All the foam was making that sound (which was weird because after a few hours, I could no longer see foam). There must've been foam only in the pump part. Once I flushed it out with distilled, the sound went back to normal. Running Patel ice white now, and almost silent


The foamy ocean will do it . Good to hear its straight.


----------



## taowulf

In the words of Seaman Jones from Hunt from the Red October, "Captain, we're cavitating!"


----------



## Plaedien

Hi Guys









I'm looking to get started on my first custom loop, but I need some advice from people who no more about the subject than me!

I have been looking at the RayStorm D5 AX360 kit to start with, and the adding a GPU block to the loop. What I'm concerned about, is whether or not the 360 rad and the D5 pump will be enough to cool both my CPU and GPU effectively. My CPU is 3770K (stock at this stage) and a XFX Radeon 7990 dual gpu. I've done a bit of research regarding single vs dual loops, and the general consensus seems to be that a single loop is more efficient, with the dual loop giving only minimal gains for the price.

So. In your opinion Overclockers, will the AX360 Rad and Raystorm kit, with an XSPC Razor 7990 gpu block be enough to cool everything ok? I'd love to avoid a second rad if possible, the price of the gpu block alone is a little painful!

FYI I have a Coolermaster Cosmos II case to put everything in









Thanks guys, I look forward to the suggestions!


----------



## Anateus

It wont give you that much of a cooling. For 3 chips (CPU+2GPU) you would need at least 480mm of space (or 360 + 120). I cant find much info on installing 240 rad in front of the case. See if its possible, and grab some high performance radiator for that spot.


----------



## Timstuff

Pretty much all conventional wisdom I've seen suggests 240mm for a significantly overclocked CPU, and an additional 120MM for each GPU, so a 2X SLI rig would need at least 480mm or rad. Once I add a GPU or two to my loop I'm going to add a second 240mm rad.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timstuff*
> 
> Pretty much all conventional wisdom I've seen suggests 240mm for a significantly overclocked CPU, and an additional 120MM for each GPU, so a 2X SLI rig would need at least 480mm or rad. Once I add a GPU or two to my loop I'm going to add a second 240mm rad.


I'm running an RX360, RX240, and EX240. It's enough if I slightly overclock my Titan X's and 4770k, but once I raise the voltage to 1.2+ the water temps get pretty high: 40c. I'm going to upgrade to a CL SMA8, and there I'll add an additional two RX480s


----------



## Timstuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I'm running an RX360, RX240, and EX240. It's enough if I slightly overclock my Titan X's and 4770k, but once I raise the voltage to 1.2+ the water temps get pretty high: 40c. I'm going to upgrade to a CL SMA8, and there I'll add an additional two RX480s


What kind of overclock are you running on the 4770k? How many Titan X cards are you running? I've heard the Titan X in particular is a very toasty card.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timstuff*
> 
> What kind of overclock are you running on the 4770k? How many Titan X cards are you running? I've heard the Titan X in particular is a very toasty card.


I run my 4770k at 4.5ghz and 1.3v, and I have two TX's.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I'm running an RX360, RX240, and EX240. It's enough if I slightly overclock my Titan X's and 4770k, but once I raise the voltage to 1.2+ the water temps get pretty high: 40c. I'm going to upgrade to a CL SMA8, and there I'll add an additional two RX480s


It get toasty in my rig when everything is folding considering everything still at stock clocks. Think the highest it gets is 38*C, but currently 34-35*C with both old vanilla Titans folding on stock clocks.

Need to get that Haf 915F smack to the bottom and get two more rads to add into the loop. Otherwise I think I could easily break the water temp over 40 or more if I started to OC the Titans like crazy.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plaedien*
> 
> Hi Guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking to get started on my first custom loop, but I need some advice from people who no more about the subject than me!
> 
> I have been looking at the RayStorm D5 AX360 kit to start with, and the adding a GPU block to the loop. What I'm concerned about, is whether or not the 360 rad and the D5 pump will be enough to cool both my CPU and GPU effectively. My CPU is 3770K (stock at this stage) and a XFX Radeon 7990 dual gpu. I've done a bit of research regarding single vs dual loops, and the general consensus seems to be that a single loop is more efficient, with the dual loop giving only minimal gains for the price.
> 
> So. In your opinion Overclockers, will the AX360 Rad and Raystorm kit, with an XSPC Razor 7990 gpu block be enough to cool everything ok? I'd love to avoid a second rad if possible, the price of the gpu block alone is a little painful!
> 
> FYI I have a Coolermaster Cosmos II case to put everything in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks guys, I look forward to the suggestions!


The GPU is going to kill the loop. Your going to need the second Rad because of the 7990. But the D5 pump will flow just about anything you can put in the case. You can try it with the configuration above. But I am pretty sure you will be picking up the second rad. All one loop should be okay you will hit delta and short of fans or Rads the delta is what it is. Good luck.


----------



## Timstuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I run my 4770k at 4.5ghz and 1.3v, and I have two TX's.


1.3 volts is a little higher than I would be comfortable overclocking with. If you have adequate cooling it should be fine, but in general most people say to try and avoid going over 1.25 volts if longevity is of particular concern. 4.5 GHz isn't a particularly extreme overclock for the 4770K, so try lowering the voltage and see if you still get stable performance.

For example, I have my 3770K overclocked from 3.5 GHz to 4.5 GHz, and I only needed 1.2 volts to get there with rock solid stability-- and I might even be able to lower the voltage further for even better temps (I just need a free afternoon to do style stress testing on it if I do).

Higher than recommended voltage on the CPU plus two Titan Xs will definitely kick off a lot of heat. Lowering your CPU's voltage will probably help.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Plaedien*
> 
> Hi Guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking to get started on my first custom loop, but I need some advice from people who no more about the subject than me!
> 
> I have been looking at the RayStorm D5 AX360 kit to start with, and the adding a GPU block to the loop. What I'm concerned about, is whether or not the 360 rad and the D5 pump will be enough to cool both my CPU and GPU effectively. My CPU is 3770K (stock at this stage) and a XFX Radeon 7990 dual gpu. I've done a bit of research regarding single vs dual loops, and the general consensus seems to be that a single loop is more efficient, with the dual loop giving only minimal gains for the price.
> 
> So. In your opinion Overclockers, will the AX360 Rad and Raystorm kit, with an XSPC Razor 7990 gpu block be enough to cool everything ok? I'd love to avoid a second rad if possible, the price of the gpu block alone is a little painful!
> 
> FYI I have a Coolermaster Cosmos II case to put everything in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks guys, I look forward to the suggestions!
> 
> 
> 
> The GPU is going to kill the loop. Your going to need the second Rad because of the 7990. But the D5 pump will flow just about anything you can put in the case. You can try it with the configuration above. But I am pretty sure you will be picking up the second rad. All one loop should be okay you will hit delta and short of fans or Rads the delta is what it is. Good luck.
Click to expand...

This^^^^

while the AX360-D5 kit is a good "starters" kit and while it be able to handle the load it wont leave a lot of headroom.. you're going to find yourself having to either point an A/C unit at your case and hating the noise since the fans will have to run at full speed when you put some decent load on it
You're going to wish you had plugged in a 2nd radiator from the start









At least a 120, but a 240'll give you more comfort & headroom.

Unless of course your CP is sitting in the path of an A/C or you are living in northen Greenland


----------



## hanaxxaru

is there any fix for rattle pump? by the way, i'm using xspc raystorm 750 ex240 kit.. the noise and vibration is too much and its making constant hum in my case.. i'm absolutely sure that's from the pump.. first 2-3 month, it was good and quiet but now is different..


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hanaxxaru*
> 
> is there any fix for rattle pump? by the way, i'm using xspc raystorm 750 ex240 kit.. the noise and vibration is too much and its making constant hum in my case.. i'm absolutely sure that's from the pump.. first 2-3 month, it was good and quiet but now is different..


Isolate the pump from the case?


----------



## hanaxxaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Isolate the pump from the case?


I've tried run the kit outside from the case but it still same.. Done draining twice and checked for the air bubble but unfortunately, the noise/rattle still there..


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hanaxxaru*
> 
> I've tried run the kit outside from the case but it still same.. Done draining twice and checked for the air bubble but unfortunately, the noise/rattle still there..


Is it running on 5?


----------



## hanaxxaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Is it running on 5?


The pump have single speed.. For reference, http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/x2o-750-dual-bayrespump-black-v4


----------



## ambientblue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hanaxxaru*
> 
> The pump have single speed.. For reference, http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/x2o-750-dual-bayrespump-black-v4


He means 5v or 12v. You can do either.


----------



## PachAz

If you have a cosmos II and want to use xspc stuff its better that you build your own custom loop. In the top you can have the xspc ex 360, its around 36mm thick and in the bottom you can have the rx 240 which is 56mm thick with push/pull. All this will fit in the cosmos II with no moding. I recommend for pump/res either the D5 dual bay reservoir, D5 tank reservoir, or the D5 170 photon. You can buy the xspc kit with tha ex 360 rad and then choose additional parts. Maybe you will save a few bucks I dont know. I dont even know why you ask this in the xspc thread instead of in the general forum.

If you have a 7990 you definatley would want a 360mm and a 240mm considering how hot the previous and current generation AMD cards are even at stock.


----------



## Timstuff

One important question I have is whether or not an RX360 is going to fit in my brother's HAF-X comfortably if it's in push-pull and not just pull, because it's such a thick radiator. If there's not enough vertical clearance it could end up getting in the way of the RAM or the VRM heatsink. I also like to hand-tighten the screws on the push fans since that makes cleaning easier, and on my own rig I ended up leaving out one of the screws on one of the fans because it was too difficult to reach, so that is something I could potentially do with some of the RX360's push fans if necessary. From this pic it looks like two of the fans would end up having to have 3 screws if I wanted them to be removable without taking out the whole mobo.



I mean it's not impossible, but it's definitely a bit monstrous looking. If the whole assembly is not going to fit particularly well, then I may as well just go with an AX360 for my brother's rig. For a thinner radiator I don't think a set of pull fans would be worth the extra cost and noise, so it would probably be push-only. If the thicker rad in push/pull is worth it for the better cooling performance though, then perhaps I should stick with the plan. I can probably make it work, but is a thicker radiator worth it?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hanaxxaru*
> 
> is there any fix for rattle pump? by the way, i'm using xspc raystorm 750 ex240 kit.. the noise and vibration is too much and its making constant hum in my case.. i'm absolutely sure that's from the pump.. first 2-3 month, it was good and quiet but now is different..


its probably dieing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ambientblue*
> 
> He means 5v or 12v. You can do either.


actually no he didnt. he thought it was a d5.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timstuff*
> 
> One important question I have is whether or not an RX360 is going to fit in my brother's HAF-X comfortably if it's in push-pull and not just pull, because it's such a thick radiator.


the rx360v3 is optimized for a single set of fans not push/pull. xspc has even stated this. google radiator roundup 2015, or just find it here on ocn in the water cooling section. a lot of the questions youre asking can be answered by using the search feature right here on the forums.


----------



## Timstuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> the rx360v3 is optimized for a single set of fans not push/pull. xspc has even stated this. google radiator roundup 2015, or just find it here on ocn in the water cooling section. a lot of the questions youre asking can be answered by using the search feature right here on the forums.


So then instead of putting an RX360 in push/pull, maybe I should just get some Noctua fans and put it in pull-only? That would certainly make cleaning easier. The only caveat would probably be to make sure that there's a good seal between the fans and the radiator, although I'm pretty sure I can do that with about $1 worth of black foam from the craft store.

And thanks for the info! Knowing that the RX360 does not need push/pull will save me a lot of headaches in the future.


----------



## Jflisk

I am building a rad box for my Xspc 240 Radiator. I already have 2x D5 pumps XSPC raystorm block 3X R9 290X EK blocked. Just don't like the temps. So the only room I can find is to build a separate box for the bottom of My Frac design Arc Xl. So far I have 1x 120 -1X 280MM - 1x240 Monsta 80mm. My System max is 64C after 3 Hrs of BF hard line. All this so far without the box it is trying to hold back 1000W. So I am hoping the rad box with all fans running will take me under 60C constant. Mind you I have 3x R9 290x and FX 9590 Processor = 1000W if not more at full tilt. The Box will have the 240 Rad in it but I have left room in it for 360 Rad If I decide to switch up.

Whats going in the box
NXTZ fan controller
240MM XSPC rad
4 XSPC fans.

So far I have spent around or about 60.00 on the box. I used 1/2 Good quality Plywood. Thin black material from Walmart for covering the openings on the sides. Bondo all purpose putty smells like dirty sneakers but when it hardens sand able -Drillable. Basically stronger then the wood to cover the screw holes and cracks if any from cutting..Going to paint it with machine black almost matches the Frac paint to the t.

In case anyone ever wondered the XSPC fans are extremely good fans for the price. I gave up my Noctuas and went with the XSPC fans.

I hope to have it painted and ready by the weekend for installation.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hanaxxaru*
> 
> is there any fix for rattle pump? by the way, i'm using xspc raystorm 750 ex240 kit.. the noise and vibration is too much and its making constant hum in my case.. i'm absolutely sure that's from the pump.. first 2-3 month, it was good and quiet but now is different..


Is it one of the bay reservoirs. If so wrap some black tape around the front before install into the case. Thanks


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I am building a rad box for my Xspc 240 Radiator. I already have 2x D5 pumps XSPC raystorm block 3X R9 290X EK blocked. Just don't like the temps. So the only room I can find is to build a separate box for the bottom of My Frac design Arc Xl. So far I have 1x 120 -1X 280MM - 1x240 Monsta 80mm. My System max is 64C after 3 Hrs of BF hard line. All this so far without the box it is trying to hold back 1000W. So I am hoping the rad box with all fans running will take me under 60C constant. Mind you I have 3x R9 290x and FX 9590 Processor = 1000W if not more at full tilt. The Box will have the 240 Rad in it but I have left room in it for 360 Rad If I decide to switch up.
> 
> Whats going in the box
> NXTZ fan controller
> 240MM XSPC rad
> 4 XSPC fans.
> 
> So far I have spent around or about 60.00 on the box. I used 1/2 Good quality Plywood. Thin black material from Walmart for covering the openings on the sides. Bondo all purpose putty smells like dirty sneakers but when it hardens sand able -Drillable. Basically stronger then the wood to cover the screw holes and cracks if any from cutting..Going to paint it with machine black almost matches the Frac paint to the t.
> 
> In case anyone ever wondered the XSPC fans are extremely good fans for the price. I gave up my Noctuas and went with the XSPC fans.
> 
> I hope to have it painted and ready by the weekend for installation.


At least 1000watt. I would use that 240 plus another 240 as minimum added. A 240 for each 290x and a 240 for the cup plus put the vrm under water also.


----------



## hanaxxaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> its probably dieing.
> actually no he didnt. he thought it was a d5.


i thought that too.. but nevermind.. i've tried different voltage at the molex, 5v and 12v.. the rattles there but in a lower decibel.. still loud though.. i would like to buy another pump, maybe a d5 pump.. do xspc d5's pump lineup good?


----------



## ambientblue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> its probably dieing.
> actually no he didnt. he thought it was a d5.


You're right it's probably dying but no he meant 5v or 12v as you can run the x2o 750 at either.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hanaxxaru*
> 
> i thought that too.. but nevermind.. i've tried different voltage at the molex, 5v and 12v.. the rattles there but in a lower decibel.. still loud though.. i would like to buy another pump, maybe a d5 pump.. do xspc d5's pump lineup good?


Sorry, I forgot to add V (5V).
I own photon + d5 combo and I must say its awesome. I can sometimes hear it at 5, but you dont really need to run it this high even with many rads and blocks.


----------



## LoneWolf3574

I've had a Raystorm on my AMD rig for nearly 3 years and now I'm looking to cross over to the Blue Side. I was wondering if anybody could tell me if the Intel Mounting kit for RayStorm is compatible with the 2011-v3 mounting on X99 motherboards. Thanks in advance.


----------



## PachAz

Yes I would think so, with the kit your get like screws that you screw into the stock mobo back plate. That is what I got with my Raystorm kit.


----------



## Power-by-Weed

Busted my 750 pump from my rasa rs240 months ago









My new kit arrived








Raystorm with d5 pump and ax240 planning to add my gpu into the loop universal raystorm block would it ok to use only 1 rad?
Pump/res > radiator > cpu > gpu then back to reservoir
Or would it be better if after it goes out of the cpu it passes thru another rad before going to the gpu


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Power-by-Weed*
> 
> Busted my 750 pump from my rasa rs240 months ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My new kit arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Raystorm with d5 pump and ax240 planning to add my gpu into the loop universal raystorm block would it ok to use only 1 rad?
> Pump/res > radiator > cpu > gpu then back to reservoir
> Or would it be better if after it goes out of the cpu it passes thru another rad before going to the gpu


loop order doesnt matter as long as the res is before the pump, right before it. a second rad will be good though. youll have higher temps and loud fan noise but its doable.


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Power-by-Weed*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Busted my 750 pump from my rasa rs240 months ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My new kit arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Raystorm with d5 pump and ax240 planning to add my gpu into the loop universal raystorm block would it ok to use only 1 rad?
> Pump/res > radiator > cpu > gpu then back to reservoir
> Or would it be better if after it goes out of the cpu it passes thru another rad before going to the gpu


Sweet looking rig. If your not overclocked on any of it you should be fine using the one rad. Unless you have one of those crazy amd 9590 cpus.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> Sweet looking rig. If your not overclocked on any of it you should be fine using the one rad. Unless you have one of those crazy amd 9590 cpus.[/quote
> 
> Hey I resemble that remark.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Power-by-Weed*
> 
> Busted my 750 pump from my rasa rs240 months ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My new kit arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Raystorm with d5 pump and ax240 planning to add my gpu into the loop universal raystorm block would it ok to use only 1 rad?
> Pump/res > radiator > cpu > gpu then back to reservoir
> Or would it be better if after it goes out of the cpu it passes thru another rad before going to the gpu


Loop order does not matter it will hit equilibrium and that's as far as temps you will get with your radiators.









Nice build -


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Hey I resemble that remark.


Haha then you know why I say that.









You can feel the heat on that baby from a distance.

I know when i went from my 8350 to a temp i3 then back to the 8350 at 4.8ghz I could really feel the diff. Holy heat pump batman.


----------



## Power-by-Weed

Found it hard to fit 2 rads inside a mid tower, settling now with 1 rad got my cpu and gpu in te loop, tubing gone so wide. Thinking now to use hard line. Guess this is a start of more spending


----------



## SteezyTN

All complete


----------



## ambientblue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> All complete


nice clean look. Love the hard tubing..


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> Haha then you know why I say that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can feel the heat on that baby from a distance.
> 
> I know when i went from my 8350 to a temp i3 then back to the 8350 at 4.8ghz I could really feel the diff. Holy heat pump batman.


I used my upper radiator as a hand warmer in the winter.


----------



## bling454

hi, I am planning to do a custom loop and just would like some expert approval... I have made a list of the main parts I plan to get

reservoir/pump
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SY0GI2C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3GO5VFCNOM5I7

_sorry to offend anyone_
Cpu Block
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LKNV596/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3JR0YCXC6EG04

radiator
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0067LW8RY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1S9W9A986D3KF

fittings
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NODEXYE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3GO5VFCNOM5I7

please let me know what you think, tell me if i'm being stupid or missing something quite important


----------



## Anateus

I'd change the CPU block to something from EK.
Bay res is pain in ass to many people, are you sure you cant fit even smallest res+pump combo? Not that Im advertising EK, but they have way smaller ones than XSPC and can be mounted literally everywhere.
Also the rad is mediocre at best.


----------



## Power-by-Weed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bling454*
> 
> hi, I am planning to do a custom loop and just would like some expert approval... I have made a list of the main parts I plan to get
> 
> reservoir/pump
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SY0GI2C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3GO5VFCNOM5I7
> 
> _sorry to offend anyone_
> Cpu Block
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LKNV596/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3JR0YCXC6EG04
> 
> radiator
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0067LW8RY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1S9W9A986D3KF
> 
> fittings
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NODEXYE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3GO5VFCNOM5I7
> 
> please let me know what you think, tell me if i'm being stupid or missing something quite important


you already got everything cover aside from tubing, but that should work
i actually started with a pre-loved kit (rasa kit), personally used it for 2 years my rebuild decided still to use xspc


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bling454*
> 
> hi, I am planning to do a custom loop and just would like some expert approval... I have made a list of the main parts I plan to get
> 
> reservoir/pump
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SY0GI2C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3GO5VFCNOM5I7
> 
> _sorry to offend anyone_
> Cpu Block
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LKNV596/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3JR0YCXC6EG04
> 
> radiator
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0067LW8RY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1S9W9A986D3KF
> 
> fittings
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NODEXYE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3GO5VFCNOM5I7
> 
> please let me know what you think, tell me if i'm being stupid or missing something quite important


XSPC sells full kits
http://www.performance-pcs.com/complete-kits/shopby/brand--xspc/

Other then that you need 6 fittings and tubing is missing from your list and also fans for your radiators. Also some kind of biocide - with distilled. If your going to do more blocks in your loop might want to go all the way D5 pump or pumps.


----------



## pc-illiterate

yep, no way would i pay that much money for that res-dual-pump kit. the big jingway pumps are better and cheaper...


----------



## bling454

Thank you for the information on the kits... i believe it will use this one http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-raystorm-extreme-universal-cpu-watercooling-kit-w-ex280-radiator-420-pump-res.html
but i would like to know if i should get replacement compression fittings instead of the inferior barb fittings


----------



## PachAz

I would rather choose a kit with a D5 or DDC pump.


----------



## Power-by-Weed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bling454*
> 
> Thank you for the information on the kits... i believe it will use this one http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-raystorm-extreme-universal-cpu-watercooling-kit-w-ex280-radiator-420-pump-res.html
> but i would like to know if i should get replacement compression fittings instead of the inferior barb fittings


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> I would rather choose a kit with a D5 or DDC pump.


yes coming from an xspc dualbay 750 now using dual bay d5 much better
as for the fittings unfortunately that kit and 750 kits have barbs only i guess you can try calling or emailing ppc asking if there's a chance to upgrade them


----------



## pc-illiterate

there is nothing wrong or inferior about barbs. as long as clamps are used, they are safer than compression fittings...


----------



## PachAz

Barbs look less nice than compression fittings.


----------



## pc-illiterate

'look less nice' does not mean inferior or wrong.
also, beauty is subjective.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> there is nothing wrong or inferior about barbs. as long as clamps are used, they are safer than compression fittings...


Facts are facts, clamps can be used in a garden, but not in an expensive pc. They just dont look nice. Also, where did the idea of safer-than-compressions clamps came from?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Facts are facts, clamps can be used in a garden, but not in an expensive pc. They just dont look nice. Also, where did the idea of safer-than-compressions clamps came from?


There's a difference between aesthetics and 100% working. I've never used barbs, but they still function good as compressions do. The don't have to look nice.


----------



## Anateus

If you're thinking about workstations then yes, they might do. But no human with the slightest sense of aesthetics will pick up barbs and clamps for his rig.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Facts are facts, clamps can be used in a garden, but not in an expensive pc. They just dont look nice. Also, where did the idea of safer-than-compressions clamps came from?


yes, facts are facts.
compression rings *have* cut tubing.
clamps *are* used in expensive pc's.

and youre just another person showing that overclock.net is no longer about the 'pursuit of performance' but instead 'my pretty pc'. besides, $2 for a barb and $1 for a decent looking clamp is $3 total. compare that to $10 and more for compression fittings. 16 fittings. $50 vs $160. thats $90 i can put towards something important and vital. considering some people have more fittings than that, everyone saves a different amount. on top of that, not everyone has a window in the case. not everyone sits their case on their desk. maybe 2% of everyone using compression fittings will ever see them again after installing them.
form always follows function. when it does not, the world turns into what we have today.


----------



## Anateus

If somebody needs 16 or more fittings then Im pretty sure he can afford price difference between clamps and compressions. I've read more topics about problems and leaks due to clamp fittings, and almost no problems with compression fittings.


----------



## bling454

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> there is nothing wrong or inferior about barbs. as long as clamps are used, they are safer than compression fittings...


In what way are they not as safe


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> If somebody needs 16 or more fittings then Im pretty sure he can afford price difference between clamps and compressions. I've read more topics about problems and leaks due to clamp fittings, and almost no problems with compression fittings.


really? on both of your statements, really?
i have 16 fittings in my loop. i can afford can and could afford compression fittings. i didnt buy them as i said because that money can and was spent on other things not wasted on fittings because others would say my loop looks ugly. form, function and performance over looks every day. anything else is inferior. besides, properly installed clamps are not ugly. beauty and therefore lack of, are opinion.
show me these topics where clamps caused problems. especially seeing that all cars use clamps on tubing. they always have.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bling454*
> 
> In what way are they not as safe


scroll up. tubing has been cut. tubing doesnt fit and rings dont screw all the way down. rings have been cross threaded on and leak because users didnt know they were cross threaded.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> If somebody needs 16 or more fittings then Im pretty sure he can afford price difference between clamps and compressions. I've read more topics about problems and leaks due to clamp fittings, and almost no problems with compression fittings.


You just contradicted yourself there. Who cares who uses what. Compressions may be better looking aesthetically, but the two are equally the same when it comes to doing what they do. That's like saying I can spend $3000 on my PC, but since I'm already spending that much, I may as well get 4 Titan X's over the two I have.

EDIT* the people who have problems with leaks from using barbs are probably inexperienced people where it's there first time.


----------



## PachAz

It is inferior because those clamps take more space than the compression ring.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> It is inferior because those clamps take more space than the compression ring.


wow that is fail.
thank you for coming into a thread and stating something that makes absolutely no sense. you winz the interwebz!


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> It is inferior because those clamps take more space than the compression ring.


Now that was.. bad


----------



## Prometheus6987

Hi there, I recently bought a XSPC X2O 750 Combo V4 in a WC kit, now I whis to add 2 cards and one bigger rad to the loop.

My question is: is there any way to extract the pump and use it in a different setup with an external reservoir?

thanks


----------



## SteezyTN

I'm selling my 170 D5 vario to a friend. Now that I'll be getting an SMA8, I don't know if I want to get two 270's or go EK.


----------



## PachAz

Its not fail, clamps do take more space and look algy. For me, WC should look neat as well not just functional. These cheap compression fittings cost like 3 dollars each and they work great and look really nice, why even bother with nipples?


----------



## addandycheng

XSPC wateblocks are handsome and perform well


----------



## everlast4291987

Hello everybody. I"m going to be replacing my i5 2500k to I7 5930k. I was wondering if the Raystorm block I bought around the time Danger Den shut down if it would fit on the 2011-3 CPU or would I need to buy a new mount Kit?

Or should I buy a different block?

Never mind I found my answer


----------



## trevor1030

Wondering what you guys thought of these components for my next XSPC build!

SPC RS Twin D5 RX240 $390.00 7/16 by 5/8 fittings? is that proper?

XSPC Full Cover Razor GPU Blocks $115.99 (will these GPU blocks be able to work with EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB FTW ACX 2.0+ Video Card) ? or do i need reference models?

240MM XSPC Rad $49.99 (assuming i need this to add loop on for the GPU?)

Keep in mind this build is going to be for a Corsair 350D case. As i enjoy the small form factor, so i planned on putting the main radiator on top and the secondary on the front of PC, do you think i should do it a different way or go with a different kit?

Thanks again

Trevor


----------



## brazilianloser

MUST HAVE IT RIGHT NOW!!!


----------



## Ithanul

Hmmm, not bad looking, but could have one without the LED part. Not much for glowly CPU or GPU blocks.


----------



## VSG

You don't have to use LEDs if you don't like them:


----------



## Ithanul

True, but its that clear acrylic on it that bugs me. Hmmm, there is always spray paint though.









Oooooo, that gives me a idea. Hmmmm, now which build I have plans on to throw one on.


----------



## VSG

Removable for modding:


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Removable for modding:


Ah, very nice then.

May nab one. Since I still need to get a CPU block for my Dad's build.


----------



## yekim416

this is my define r5 build this is also my first pc build and first watercooled and hardlined i plan to clean it up alot more i just wanted to finish it so i can start using it and save up some more money to do more i have the i bought a xspc bay res and pump combo because i had planned to just use soft tubing but then i said what the hell might as well go for it and picked up some petg tubing and fittings also a tube res. sice i read that it not that great to have the pump above the res i made my own mount for the bay res and got a xspc fill adpater to g1/4 and connected them both well anyway here it is im not that happy with some of the hardlines so i plan to redo some of them later on


----------



## rcasey02

Hows it going everyone this is my first post and so far out of all the forums and what not about PC's this one so far has been my favorite to browse. This brings me to my question. I just recently purchased the XSPC Raystorm D5 photon AX360 kit for my Skylake build that i'am doing, the kit is in the mail at the moment but i was wondering if these XSPC kits come with the new V3 Raystorm blocks? Also if it doesn't will the original Raystorm still function on the the skylake socket? I'm new to a lot of this PC building and watercooling stuff so if this is a dumb question or whatever just tell to F off haha.

Edited to add: My build so far includes
Gigabyte Z170X Gaming 7 mobo
Gskill Trident z 16gb ram
I7-6700k cpu
Gigabyte GTX980ti Extreme gpu
Fractal Define S/window case
3 noctua fans plus the 2 fractal ones in the case
1 tb seagate sshd, 500gb evo ssd
EVGA 850 G2 PSU


----------



## muzammil84

Hi all.

My version of Raystorm


----------



## Majorshacker

Hi everyone,

New to the forums, this is my current & first build ever with Water Cooling. It's been a crazy experience from setup to emailing XSPC about what I'm doing wrong/bad pump. Which the tech people there were kind of enough to stick with me the entire time. Found out that I'm just bad at getting rid of Air Pockets, and just yesterday got the motor silent. Anyways some pictures of the layout (this was during initial setup pictures).
Only thing I'm not sure about is if I should tighten up the tubes might have been a little too paranoid about kinks in the Loops. That they hang on par with Vidoecard (not ontop but off to the side).

Anywayas enjoy

System spec.
i7-6700k
GIGABYTE G1 Gaming GA-Z170X-Gaming GT
Evega GTX680 4G GPU
G.SKILL TridentZ Series 16GB
HAF Case.

RayStorm D5 EX360 WaterCooling Kit


----------



## Crazycarl

i built almost a year ago


----------



## BigTall

Howdy all! Here's where my Raystorm Pro is doing it's thing!


----------



## CarnageHimura

Hi guys, a friend of mine has a 780 ROG Poseidon and is wondering if with a RayStorm 750 EX240 Kit he can cool his FX-8350 and the poseidon, thank you in advance!!


----------



## Power-by-Weed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CarnageHimura*
> 
> Hi guys, a friend of mine has a 780 ROG Poseidon and is wondering if with a RayStorm 750 EX240 Kit he can cool his FX-8350 and the poseidon, thank you in advance!!


that kit can definitely support your desired loop, you won't get the best results unfortunately if you are going to use a single radiator
if you can fit a 360 rad for a single rad i bet it would work much better or if your budget permits i'll go with secondary rad pump/res>rad>cpu>rad>gpu
rog poseidon uses a g1/4 thread which is the same thread for water cooling fittings so it won't be hard to setup your loop


----------



## CarnageHimura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Power-by-Weed*
> 
> that kit can definitely support your desired loop, you won't get the best results unfortunately if you are going to use a single radiator
> if you can fit a 360 rad for a single rad i bet it would work much better or if your budget permits i'll go with secondary rad pump/res>rad>cpu>rad>gpu
> rog poseidon uses a g1/4 thread which is the same thread for water cooling fittings so it won't be hard to setup your loop


Thank you!, then, that pump can manage another rad and the Poseidon without problems?


----------



## Power-by-Weed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CarnageHimura*
> 
> Thank you!, then, that pump can manage another rad and the Poseidon without problems?


the kit uses a d5 pump best pump you can get, the next best thing is to add another d5
still a single d5 can easily handle 2 rads and 2 blocks


----------



## adriankiller

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CarnageHimura*
> 
> Thank you!, then, that pump can manage another rad and the Poseidon without problems?


the 750 pump isnt the best but itll suffice until your friend can get a quality pump. the old 750 was known to be either great for a couple years or die right away or even do whatever it wanted anywhere in between. its better than it was.
a 240 can cool an 8350 ok if it isnt overclocked like mad. itll still be kinda quiet with the right fans. adding a 780 poseidon wont up the temps too much because its basically a uni block cooling only the gpu.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Power-by-Weed*
> 
> the kit uses a d5 pump best pump you can get, the next best thing is to add another d5
> still a single d5 can easily handle 2 rads and 2 blocks


as i just stated above, the 750 is an xspc kit pump and not a d5. huge difference.


----------



## Power-by-Weed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> the 750 pump isnt the best but itll suffice until your friend can get a quality pump. the old 750 was known to be either great for a couple years or die right away or even do whatever it wanted anywhere in between. its better than it was.
> a 240 can cool an 8350 ok if it isnt overclocked like mad. itll still be kinda quiet with the right fans. adding a 780 poseidon wont up the temps too much because its basically a uni block cooling only the gpu.
> as i just stated above, the 750 is an xspc kit pump and not a d5. huge difference.


thank you for pointing that one, i have confused myself with that res/pump and xspc dual d5 res

i still believe the 750 pump can handle both cpu and gpu loop but i won't recommend, if you budget permits go with a d5


----------



## CarnageHimura

Great guys,thank you for your help, we are going to evaluate the posibilities in order to get that poseidon wet!


----------



## Power-by-Weed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CarnageHimura*
> 
> Great guys,thank you for your help, we are going to evaluate the posibilities in order to get that poseidon wet!


sorry about the confusion with regard to the kit you were asking about, you may want to consider using a d5 instead
xspc have a reservoir for a d5 that looks exactly the same with the 750 pump it way better


----------



## Schmuckley

It's all fun and games:Until you have to change your platform or CPU.

I just tried the Raystorm because..I liked the RASA.

1st thing..How are you supposed to pull it back off?

2nd thing..I'm running a 6-core and it overpowered it









It did worse than my air cooler.

I don't call that an improvement over the RASA at all.


----------



## greg1184

I got the xdpc raystorm pro to replace my original raystorm. The mounting system has improved exponentially. Much easier to install.





It's a work in progress.


----------



## LostLunatik

Hello guys, can someone tell me threads length, the length of the screw and it diametr from the "Raystorm and Rasa LGA 2011 Black Screw Fixing Set" ?


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostLunatik*
> 
> Hello guys, can someone tell me threads length, the length of the screw and it diametr from the "Raystorm and Rasa LGA 2011 Black Screw Fixing Set" ?


total bolt length is 50mm, longer thread 20mm, shorter 3mm. I'm not able to measure thread itself but I think XSPC uses 3/16 as it's british brand?
If you're from UK I can send you the oem screw set as I don't use them anyway.


----------



## LostLunatik

Thank you man for your help! I dont know which brand XSPC but there is standard metric thread. It screwed on the 2011 socket motherboard into them bacplate. I'm not from the UK unfortunately but thanks for responsiveness.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> total bolt length is 50mm, longer thread 20mm, shorter 3mm. I'm not able to measure thread itself but I think XSPC uses 3/16 as it's british brand?
> If you're from UK I can send you the oem screw set as I don't use them anyway.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostLunatik*
> 
> Thank you man for your help! I dont know which brand XSPC but there is standard metric thread. It screwed on the 2011 socket motherboard into them bacplate. I'm not from the UK unfortunately but thanks for responsiveness.


no worries, I'll try to check it today when I get home and let you know.
You can buy Raystorm Intel mounting kit separately, they're not expensive, or I can send you mine if you pay for postage.


----------



## MattBaneLM

just fitted a raystorm pro to the rig in my sig and its awesome.
admittedly I lapped the IHS, delidded it, and used CM Nano Gel TIM as well but a drop from 90 deg to 70-73 deg is way more than I expected and the block did its part without a doubt!

hey can I have one of those sig label thingys? I'm sold on XSPC


----------



## r_aquarii

first time open loop build


----------



## MattBaneLM

very nice bro


----------



## giltyler

I have had the Original Raystorm Intel Block on my 2500K first and on My 2600K currently and need to find out if it will work on my X99 build 5930K
The block has done a nice job on the 1155 CPU socket so I hope to reuse it?


----------



## r_aquarii

my raystorm pro come with 115x and 2011 socket support. not sure if yours come with it.
but you can purchase 2011 socket kit
http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-raystorm-intel-mounting-kit.html


----------



## giltyler

My kit has the 2011 studs are they compatible with the 2011v3


----------



## VSG

Yes, but I would say consider buying the new mounting kit which removes any guesswork during installation.


----------



## giltyler

Good point
Thanks geggeg


----------



## VSG

No problem


----------



## adriankiller

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## japanesegorilla

Somewhere along the way the white 3mm LEDs I had illuminating my Raystorm died (technically one of the four died, but they were wired in series so that stopped all of them). Anyway, I was going to go with white again but then decided that some contrasting colors might be nice so I ordered some 3mm red LEDs from China and three weeks later they arrived. This time around I wired them to run off of a 3 pin fan header on my motherboard instead of molex. What is up with fan wires using red for ground and black for positive whereas molex uses red and yellow for positive and black for ground? Whatever.

The only problem is that they are a bit dimmer than I would have liked because I didn't have exactly the resistors that I needed, so they are getting a little less voltage than they should be.

Anyway, here are some quick phone shots. I still have work to do as my GPU block needs LEDs, res needs some illumination, might re-position my pump, need to sleeve some extensions for my pcie power.


----------



## MattBaneLM

Wish had boy got a diff wb now
Screw pins and backplate are rubbish thicknes compared with a non pro raystorm, have bent and made mounting suck
Cheap as.... it boggles the mind really


----------



## tintreach

Need some help here guys......

So I got this block for my new loop and I'll be damed if the the mounting hardware has different threads than the CPU back plate. If you're curious it going on a Sabertooth r3.0 mobo.

http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-cpu/raystorm-cpuapu-waterblock-amd

What's going to be the best way to fix this? I'm kinda hunting around for a new blackplate or about to get a new block since my system is all torn apart cooling wise.


----------



## tintreach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tintreach*
> 
> Need some help here guys......
> 
> So I got this block for my new loop and I'll be damed if the the mounting hardware has different threads than the CPU back plate. If you're curious it going on a Sabertooth r3.0 mobo.
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-cpu/raystorm-cpuapu-waterblock-amd
> 
> What's going to be the best way to fix this? I'm kinda hunting around for a new blackplate or about to get a new block since my system is all torn apart cooling wise.


NM, I sorted it. Threads are just cut like crap. I found a 6-32 die and just recut the threads and I am now back to the races.


----------



## adriankiller

new loop



Spec :


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



- i7 6700K 4.8Ghz
- GiGabyte z170x SOC Force
- EvGa GTX 980TI
- Corsair 900D
- Avexir Platinium DDR4 4x4GB 2133MHZ
- BeQuiet p8 1000W
- 2x Plextor M6e BE 128GB / Segate 1TB
- AsUs StriX SoaR
- EdiFier 980T
- LG 34UM58



more photo


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## arnavvr

Does anyone know where I can buy just the screws that go into the backplate. Looks like I misplaced one of mine.


----------



## b0z0

Just received all my water cooling components. I went will all XSPC parts. Raystorm RGB Pro block, 2 EX360 radiators, Photon d5 Pump/Res combo 270mm, Razor GTX 1080/1080ti block, and black chrome fittings. This is my first time building a waterloop, and I've decided to got PETG hard tube. Everything will be installed in a Fractal Define S.


----------



## XSPC

We have three new RayStorm Neo blocks coming next week. Due to many requests we've made an all metal version of the Neo.


----------



## D3cryp70R

That's great news, as soon they are available in Australia I'll take 2 TR4 blocks. Thanks for listening.


----------



## XSPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D3cryp70R*
> 
> That's great news, as soon they are available in Australia I'll take 2 TR4 blocks. Thanks for listening.


It shouldn't be long until they arrive in AUS.

Here's a few more photos


----------



## TheArkratos

Anyone know if it's possible to get the Photon 270 reservoir (without pump) with the newer mounting?


----------



## XSPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheArkratos*
> 
> Anyone know if it's possible to get the Photon 270 reservoir (without pump) with the newer mounting?


Not yet. We will be changing it to the V2 mounting system in the next few months.


----------



## Solarity

@XSPC

I have the RGB LED for the Photon. I have two questions:
1) Is this LED limited in color range as it can't hit some of the colors on the motherboard, led strips, or led fans? Did I just get a defective LED? It can match red green and blue fine, though anything else it has issues with.
2) Is it easily removable, I heard of some people having issues removing the led from the res

Lastly is the RGB LED kit for the Raystorm Pro have the same color limitations of the Photons LED? I noticed that the D5 photon uses a 5mm round LED, while the 2mmx5mm rectangular LEDs.


----------



## XSPC

Solarity said:


> @XSPC
> 
> I have the RGB LED for the Photon. I have two questions:
> 1) Is this LED limited in color range as it can't hit some of the colors on the motherboard, led strips, or led fans? Did I just get a defective LED? It can match red green and blue fine, though anything else it has issues with.
> 2) Is it easily removable, I heard of some people having issues removing the led from the res
> 
> Lastly is the RGB LED kit for the Raystorm Pro have the same color limitations of the Photons LED? I noticed that the D5 photon uses a 5mm round LED, while the 2mmx5mm rectangular LEDs.


1. The colour range isn't as wide a 5050 LEDs used in LED strips. Some users have reported good results by adding a 1k resistor to the red cathode. After this the LED better matches the colours from the motherboard.

2. Yes it's easily removable. Just twist it and gently pull.

3. Yes the colour range on our 255 RGB LED is the same as the 5mm RGB LED.


----------



## kms108

I just purchased the Raystorm pro RGB white, wasn't interested in the RGB, but it was not available without it at the time of purchased from Amazon USA sent to Hong Kong, it was to replace my barrow, which I didnt like after purchaing it about 2 weeks ago.

One of the best CPU block, I prefer it than the neo or other cpu blocks from other brands, being a full copper case, the only let down is the positioning of the RGB LED, two cables sticking out of the both sidesand cannot bend, looks stupid, I just left the RSP without the lights, and used the LED on my alphacool and plexi case.


----------



## Solarity

XSPC said:


> 1. The colour range isn't as wide a 5050 LEDs used in LED strips. Some users have reported good results by adding a 1k resistor to the red cathode. After this the LED better matches the colours from the motherboard.
> 
> 2. Yes it's easily removable. Just twist it and gently pull.
> 
> 3. Yes the colour range on our 255 RGB LED is the same as the 5mm RGB LED.


I have some resistors at home, I will see if they are 1k ohms. If it works, I will give the XSPC Raystorm RGB a try. I am wondering why XSPC didn't just add the resistor themselves if it makes it match better? As RGB is becoming more of the rage, it is nice to have the colors match better. Red, Green, Blue all match perfectly, it just had issues matching other colors.


----------



## XSPC

Solarity said:


> I have some resistors at home, I will see if they are 1k ohms. If it works, I will give the XSPC Raystorm RGB a try. I am wondering why XSPC didn't just add the resistor themselves if it makes it match better? As RGB is becoming more of the rage, it is nice to have the colors match better. Red, Green, Blue all match perfectly, it just had issues matching other colors.


It's something we will likely add in the near future.


----------



## S2000Gan

I just got a Raystorm and happen to have a Maximus IV Gene-Z. I see that Scorpion49's post doesnt have working pictures anymore. Does anyone know if the backplate problem was fixed in the V3? If not, can anyone tell me how to get the Raystorm V3 on the M4G-Z?
Thanks


----------



## Aenra

Not sure if this is the right thread, but here goes 

Was looking at this: http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-gpu/razor-rgb-rx-vega
It mentions that they changed the ports design, having hard tubing in mind; the new blocks (such as the one linked here) are meant to go with rotary fittings. Now, rotary fittings being of smaller dimensions than some comp. fittings, am wondering whether i'll be able to use these in a normal manner.

Anyone having one of these that can give me the distance between the two ports? (center to center)


----------



## XSPC

Aenra said:


> Not sure if this is the right thread, but here goes
> 
> Was looking at this: http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-gpu/razor-rgb-rx-vega
> It mentions that they changed the ports design, having hard tubing in mind; the new blocks (such as the one linked here) are meant to go with rotary fittings. Now, rotary fittings being of smaller dimensions than some comp. fittings, am wondering whether i'll be able to use these in a normal manner.
> 
> Anyone having one of these that can give me the distance between the two ports? (center to center)


They are designed to be used with rotary fittings, but you can also use any of our fittings directly. It even has enough space for our big 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD compression fittings. The spacing is 28mm center to center.


----------



## XSPC

S2000Gan said:


> I just got a Raystorm and happen to have a Maximus IV Gene-Z. I see that Scorpion49's post doesnt have working pictures anymore. Does anyone know if the backplate problem was fixed in the V3? If not, can anyone tell me how to get the Raystorm V3 on the M4G-Z?
> Thanks


If I remember correctly the old backplate could make contact with some pins on the back of the Gene-Z. The backplate supplied with the V3 doesn't have that issue.


----------



## S2000Gan

Awesome! Thanks! Still waiting on getting a new case before I start working on the custom loop. Im thinking Define R6 xD


----------



## Aenra

XSPC said:


> They are designed to be used with rotary fittings, but you can also use any of our fittings directly. It even has enough space for our big 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD compression fittings. The spacing is 28mm center to center.


Good to know, was worried i might have issues; thank you very much for replying


----------



## tintreach

I just got a AM4 Neo for my Gigabyte K7. The backplate posts are higher than the single washer so it is a little loose when the studs are screwed in all the way. Is this ok or do I need to use a 2nd washer to make up for the gap?

PS @XSPC For the love of god, please start using 5mm round led holes in these blocks for the leds. This is my 2nd one, which also will visit the drill press so it can accommodate a simple 5mm addressable led.


----------



## XSPC

tintreach said:


> I just got a AM4 Neo for my Gigabyte K7. The backplate posts are higher than the single washer so it is a little loose when the studs are screwed in all the way. Is this ok or do I need to use a 2nd washer to make up for the gap?
> 
> PS @XSPC For the love of god, please start using 5mm round led holes in these blocks for the leds. This is my 2nd one, which also will visit the drill press so it can accommodate a simple 5mm addressable led.


 Do you have a photo of the backplate? They should screw all the way through and make contact with the washer. 

Adding a 5mm LED hole would weaken the bracket, that's why we have gone for the 255 LEDs (2x5x5mm). The 255 LEDs are also brighter than 5mm RGB bulbs.


----------



## tintreach

XSPC said:


> Do you have a photo of the backplate? They should screw all the way through and make contact with the washer.
> 
> Adding a 5mm LED hole would weaken the bracket, that's why we have gone for the 255 LEDs (2x5x5mm). The 255 LEDs are also brighter than 5mm RGB bulbs.


As you can see the back plate shaft come way up through the board. The washer just isn't thick enough on it's own on the top of the board


----------



## XSPC

tintreach said:


> As you can see the back plate shaft come way up through the board. The washer just isn't thick enough on it's own on the top of the board


They should continue to screw through the backplate. I'm not sure what's stopping them.

You can add another washer, but you will have to add an extra one under the spring too, or the springs will apply less pressure.


----------



## Solarity

Do the posts for the Intel Raystorm Pro work with the AMD? I want the RGB AMD kit if I ever switch


----------



## XSPC

Solarity said:


> Do the posts for the Intel Raystorm Pro work with the AMD? I want the RGB AMD kit if I ever switch


Unfortunately not. AMD use UNC threads while Intel use metric.


----------



## tintreach

XSPC said:


> They should continue to screw through the backplate. I'm not sure what's stopping them.
> 
> You can add another washer, but you will have to add an extra one under the spring too, or the springs will apply less pressure.


The reason they don't screw all the way through is because the female treads on the back plate are deeper than the threads are long on the block posts. I did manage to make it work with a extra set of large washers on the back side of the pcb where the back plate comes through at. Its all snug and the r1700 running at 23c @3.2ghz right now

Here is some feed back from this install and this block.

1: The 2 nylon washers under the SS washer on the block post looks tacky on a chrome plate. The nylon washers have a bigger O.D. than the SS and trying to get all 3 to stack center is not easy while tightening.

2: Either the chrome plating is too thick or holes for the leds are milled too small. I could barely get one in and almost broke it trying to back it out with the block apart. I'd have to take a jewelers file to make this work

3: Even if I could get the leds into the appropriate holes, there 3.5" of heat shrink after the base of the led. The lead is way too rigid to make the 90 on the flat side in the .75" space between the block plate and last stick of ram

.....all that being said it does look good in this black and chrome theme

I have just enough space to wrap the acrylic block with a led strip so that solves my custom and stock led issues. A trip to ACE to get some SS washers and polish them up to cover up the nylon washers (and slots) and it is good to go


----------



## Solarity

XSPC said:


> Unfortunately not. AMD use UNC threads while Intel use metric.


Can the posts be purchased seperately and are they fairly standard between brands or is this strictly xspc posts? I might exchange the kit for just the RGBs if I can't get them. I wont be using the controller and the top AMD plate is the reason I got it.

I spent about 30 minutes fabricating a rgb cord with two 500ohm resistors to give me a 1000ohms on the red. It is much better but not perfect. The blue seems slightly overpowering. Thanks for the tip.

It would be nice if you guys could create an adapter to allow people to retrofit the RGBs in their XSPC kits that have properly calibrated to matches colors via proper resistors. I guess I could get a bread board and a bunch of different resistors and see what matches the best. 

I do have to admit you being on this forum is extremely helpful. I wish more vendors were on the forum like this and you being able to answer the technically questions so well makes me have a lot of confidence in the support you provide your customers. You being here is one more reason I will recommend XSPC parts.


----------



## XSPC

tintreach said:


> The reason they don't screw all the way through is because the female treads on the back plate are deeper than the threads are long on the block posts. I did manage to make it work with a extra set of large washers on the back side of the pcb where the back plate comes through at. Its all snug and the r1700 running at 23c @3.2ghz right now
> 
> Here is some feed back from this install and this block.
> 
> 1: The 2 nylon washers under the SS washer on the block post looks tacky on a chrome plate. The nylon washers have a bigger O.D. than the SS and trying to get all 3 to stack center is not easy while tightening.
> 
> 2: Either the chrome plating is too thick or holes for the leds are milled too small. I could barely get one in and almost broke it trying to back it out with the block apart. I'd have to take a jewelers file to make this work
> 
> 3: Even if I could get the leds into the appropriate holes, there 3.5" of heat shrink after the base of the led. The lead is way too rigid to make the 90 on the flat side in the .75" space between the block plate and last stick of ram
> 
> .....all that being said it does look good in this black and chrome theme
> 
> I have just enough space to wrap the acrylic block with a led strip so that solves my custom and stock led issues. A trip to ACE to get some SS washers and polish them up to cover up the nylon washers (and slots) and it is good to go


I appreciate the feedback. I will get our stock checked to see if the LED hole problem wide spread.


----------



## XSPC

Solarity said:


> Can the posts be purchased seperately and are they fairly standard between brands or is this strictly xspc posts? I might exchange the kit for just the RGBs if I can't get them. I wont be using the controller and the top AMD plate is the reason I got it.
> 
> I spent about 30 minutes fabricating a rgb cord with two 500ohm resistors to give me a 1000ohms on the red. It is much better but not perfect. The blue seems slightly overpowering. Thanks for the tip.
> 
> It would be nice if you guys could create an adapter to allow people to retrofit the RGBs in their XSPC kits that have properly calibrated to matches colors via proper resistors. I guess I could get a bread board and a bunch of different resistors and see what matches the best.
> 
> I do have to admit you being on this forum is extremely helpful. I wish more vendors were on the forum like this and you being able to answer the technically questions so well makes me have a lot of confidence in the support you provide your customers. You being here is one more reason I will recommend XSPC parts.


The posts are custom made and setup to apply the correct mounting pressure. It's not a common part.

We sell a full set of AMD hardware to change the Intel block to an AM4 one.
http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-cpu-amd/amd-am4-mounting-kit-for-raystorm
http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-cpu-amd/amd-am4-mounting-kit-for-raystorm-pro


----------



## TheArkratos

Is it just me or are all of the product images broken on your site? It's been like that for a while for me, on any of my computers and any of my browsers...


----------



## XSPC

TheArkratos said:


> Is it just me or are all of the product images broken on your site? It's been like that for a while for me, on any of my computers and any of my browsers...


It's working fine here. Are you using a VPN, or adblocker?


----------



## kms108

It's good for XSPC to address the problem with the washer, although not actually replacing the screws, but they do give out extra washer to deal with the problem, but the instructions isn't updated to tell you how to install them, even tho the instruction do have images, to tell the differences from the two types of washers and what goes where is missing. After know the placement of the washers, it works perfect, but XSPC needs to redesign the positioning of the LED.


----------



## Solarity

I found out that a square block can't fit into the round hole of the XSPC Raystorm Pro. The white LEDs that came with my Raystorm are round and the RGB LEDs are rectangular. So I decided to try the white LEDs that came with the block. They go in a little and just fall out. I am not really sure how you are supposed to get these LEDs in the Raystorm Pro to stay. Any suggestions?


----------



## XSPC

Solarity said:


> I found out that a square block can't fit into the round hole of the XSPC Raystorm Pro. The white LEDs that came with my Raystorm are round and the RGB LEDs are rectangular. So I decided to try the white LEDs that came with the block. They go in a little and just fall out. I am not really sure how you are supposed to get these LEDs in the Raystorm Pro to stay. Any suggestions?


The first version of the RayStorm Pro only has the 3mm LED hole. The updated version has the 2x5x5mm + 3mm hole. We sell a bracket/LED set to change the first version to the RGB model. http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-cpu/raystorm-pro-rgb-bracket-kit-intel


----------



## andrewmp6

Will you guys have any waterblocks for the non reference pcb vega cards ?


----------



## XSPC

andrewmp6 said:


> Will you guys have any waterblocks for the non reference pcb vega cards ?


We have no plans for any non-reference Vega cards.


----------



## Solarity

Would you happen to have the Tube specs for the XSPC EX360, more specifically the height and width in mm?


----------



## XSPC

Solarity said:


> Would you happen to have the Tube specs for the XSPC EX360, more specifically the height and width in mm?


The EX series uses 16x2mm tubes


----------



## Solarity

Thanks, can you use the xspc temp sensor in a free port in the Photon D5 140 res?


----------



## XSPC

Solarity said:


> Thanks, can you use the xspc temp sensor in a free port in the Photon D5 140 res?


You could, but it won't give the most accurate reading, since there wouldn't be much waterflow over it. It would be better to use an inline sensor.


----------



## Solarity

@XSPC - What can you tell me about your different coolants? I see a EC6 and a ECX, is the ECX just the concentrated version of the EC6? I am looking for a white fluid that isn't too opaque. Can the ECX be mixed in a different ratio to give a more translucent effect?


----------



## XSPC

Solarity said:


> @XSPC - What can you tell me about your different coolants? I see a EC6 and a ECX, is the ECX just the concentrated version of the EC6? I am looking for a white fluid that isn't too opaque. Can the ECX be mixed in a different ratio to give a more translucent effect?


ECX is our concentrate coolant and EC6 is our premix. They are different formulas, but quite similar overall.

I wouldn't dilute the coolant below the recommended ratio, but you can mix ECX clear and ECX white to get a more translucent effect. You can do the same with EC6 opaque white and EC6 clear. 

We have a full range of dyes that can be mixed with EC6 too if you're looking for custom colours. http://www.xs-pc.com/coolant/


----------



## Solarity

How are the coolants different? Is one better than the other, besides one is ready to go, the other requires measuring?


----------



## XSPC

Solarity said:


> How are the coolants different? Is one better than the other, besides one is ready to go, the other requires measuring?


That's the main and only noticeable difference. EC6 is ready to go and ECX needs to be mixed with de-ionized or purified water.


----------



## Solarity

XSPC said:


> That's the main and only noticeable difference. EC6 is ready to go and ECX needs to be mixed with de-ionized or purified water.


When using the white fluid in the Photon 170mm res, is light visible from the LED at all. Do you happen to have any pictures of a Photon w/ the XSPC white fluid in there? Also is this product similar to the Mayhems Pastel?


----------



## XSPC

Solarity said:


> When using the white fluid in the Photon 170mm res, is light visible from the LED at all. Do you happen to have any pictures of a Photon w/ the XSPC white fluid in there? Also is this product similar to the Mayhems Pastel?


You won't be able to see the lighting tube when white or opaque is used. It's different to Mayhems white coolant. We don't use xinc oxide as our white base.


----------



## Solarity

XSPC said:


> You won't be able to see the lighting tube when white or opaque is used. It's different to Mayhems white coolant. We don't use xinc oxide as our white base.


I am hoping that mixing clear and white will make it semi visible, though I don't know how visible it will be. 

Lastly you guys need a 30mm Slim radiator that competes with the 360 GTS from HW Labs. The EX360 just doesn't do well in some of the benchmarks. From what I am reading it only has 11 channels? I do like how it has the split fin design, that seems to help radiators, though with less channels compared to the GTS's 14. You guys have IMHO the best CPU block in the game and the best support as you actively engage and respond with very technical in depth knowledge. Would love to see a newer radiator from you guys, as everyone on these forums and Reddits watercooling section seem to refer everyone to the 360 GTS. It is hard to argue with some well put together benchmarks from xtremerigs's website.


----------



## TheArkratos

I still wish the stand alone reservoirs had the new mounting system. They are so pretty, I love my D5/res combo. Thank you for sticking with slightly oversized glass reservoirs!


----------



## XSPC

Solarity said:


> I am hoping that mixing clear and white will make it semi visible, though I don't know how visible it will be.
> 
> Lastly you guys need a 30mm Slim radiator that competes with the 360 GTS from HW Labs. The EX360 just doesn't do well in some of the benchmarks. From what I am reading it only has 11 channels? I do like how it has the split fin design, that seems to help radiators, though with less channels compared to the GTS's 14. You guys have IMHO the best CPU block in the game and the best support as you actively engage and respond with very technical in depth knowledge. Would love to see a newer radiator from you guys, as everyone on these forums and Reddits watercooling section seem to refer everyone to the 360 GTS. It is hard to argue with some well put together benchmarks from xtremerigs's website.


Yeah, it has 11 tubes (channels). We were disappointed by the result in that review. It's not what we see in our own testing. 




> I still wish the stand alone reservoirs had the new mounting system. They are so pretty, I love my D5/res combo. Thank you for sticking with slightly oversized glass reservoirs!


Thanks  We will change to the new mounting system sometime this year.


----------



## Solarity

XSPC said:


> Yeah, it has 11 tubes (channels). We were disappointed by the result in that review. It's not what we see in our own testing.
> 
> 
> Thanks  We will change to the new mounting system sometime this year.


11 Channels seems like an odd number, unless it is an X flow style radiator, doesn't that mean that it might only have 6 channels going to one end and have only 5 coming back the other way? 

I put a lot of the specs and data into a spread sheet to compare a lot of radiators side by side. It does seem that ~14 channels, ~16 FPI, and split fins give great all around performance. The 16FPI preform well across the board on fan speeds, while denser FPI preform better only at faster speeds, while low FPI only preform better at slower speeds. On the three different brands of rads that I have I noticed split fins seem more durable/bend less on top of the small performance boost it gets. IIRC most/all of your radiators are split fin, the single fins that most other companies put out bend way to easily. 

Lastly if you shrunk the thickness of the rad housing, they could accommodate some smaller builds. It does seem like slim rads are in the highest demand, compared to their medium and fat siblings. I know many companies employ thicker housing to avoid damaging channels/fins. It would be nice if the screws could be marked differently so they could easily be distinguished, when spending hours trying to get a radiator to fit into a smaller case, I can see how screws can easily get mixed up between different radiators, etc. 

Lastly it seems that HW Labs has an exclusive deal with PPCs here in the US, it would be nice to see something from XSPC along the lines of the GTS sold from places like FrozenCPU, etc. The performance, price, and flexibility of XSPC's CPU block; the glass Photon res w/ D5, and the interaction and knowledge XSPC PC provides with in this forum, is why I recommend XSPC hands down. 

My computer is a diplomat of different brands: Asus, EVGA, Gigabyte, MSI, G.Skill, Corsair, Sennhiser, HW Labs, and XSPC. I have more XSPC parts in my system, than any other brand.


----------



## TheArkratos

Solarity said:


> I put a lot of the specs and data into a spread sheet to compare a lot of radiators side by side. It does seem that ~14 channels, ~16 FPI, and split fins give great all around performance. The 16FPI preform well across the board on fan speeds, while denser FPI preform better only at faster speeds, while low FPI only preform better at slower speeds. On the three different brands of rads that I have I noticed split fins seem more durable/bend less on top of the small performance boost it gets. IIRC most/all of your radiators are split fin, the single fins that most other companies put out bend way to easily.


I agree 16 FPI with split fins seems to be great for low rpm fans, while scaling pretty well. And I too have noticed the split fin design leads to those radiators getting less damaged.



Solarity said:


> Lastly if you shrunk the thickness of the rad housing, they could accommodate some smaller builds. It does seem like slim rads are in the highest demand


Slim rads are in the highest demand because a lot of cases only seem to support AIOs and most of those are 30mm thick. So for maximum compatibility slim is the way to go. That and slim radiators favor lower rpm and a lot of people jump to watercooling for quieter rigs.

A second point on that GTS radiators are actually horrible for compatibility because their housing makes them 133mm wide for a 120mm fan. But slim still means most cases will fit it.



Solarity said:


> Lastly it seems that HW Labs has an exclusive deal with PPCs here in the US, it would be nice to see something from XSPC along the lines of the GTS sold from places like FrozenCPU, etc....


Better availability is never a bad thing.

Lastly something I found interesting and I'm not sure if it's true about the GTS line or only the GTX line but their flow pattern is quiet different: http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/HWlabs480GTX-Review.html

I know the main drawback of the GTS line is that they are very restrictive (for a radiator) I would wager they use that design for the GTS line too and that's another reason why they perform so well and are so restrictive.

As for screws... All I have for a preference is that they are M4. M3's just make me nervous with how small they are with such fine threading. That and I do a bunch of modding and scratch building. I almost never get to use the stock screws as I'm often mounting to acrylic and need long than stock.

My opinion for a perfect radiator: m4 screws, 30mm thick, 16FPI, split fin, with the GTX style 2 pass flow, with a housing that is actually 120-125mm wide (for 120mm fans), with either screw depth guards or (potentially even better) just making sure there is no channel directly behind the screw hole (it doesn't matter if those fins get damaged, but this allows for the fins/channels to come all the way up to the housing). And if you want bonus points... better availability than just PPCs.

As you can see though, this is why I tend towards HW labs radiators.


----------



## Solarity

TheArkratos said:


> I agree 16 FPI with split fins seems to be great for low rpm fans, while scaling pretty well. And I too have noticed the split fin design leads to those radiators getting less damaged.
> 
> 
> 
> Slim rads are in the highest demand because a lot of cases only seem to support AIOs and most of those are 30mm thick. So for maximum compatibility slim is the way to go. That and slim radiators favor lower rpm and a lot of people jump to watercooling for quieter rigs.
> 
> A second point on that GTS radiators are actually horrible for compatibility because their housing makes them 133mm wide for a 120mm fan. But slim still means most cases will fit it.
> 
> 
> 
> Better availability is never a bad thing.
> 
> Lastly something I found interesting and I'm not sure if it's true about the GTS line or only the GTX line but their flow pattern is quiet different: http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/HWlabs480GTX-Review.html
> 
> I know the main drawback of the GTS line is that they are very restrictive (for a radiator) I would wager they use that design for the GTS line too and that's another reason why they perform so well and are so restrictive.
> 
> As for screws... All I have for a preference is that they are M4. M3's just make me nervous with how small they are with such fine threading. That and I do a bunch of modding and scratch building. I almost never get to use the stock screws as I'm often mounting to acrylic and need long than stock.
> 
> My opinion for a perfect radiator: m4 screws, 30mm thick, 16FPI, split fin, with the GTX style 2 pass flow, with a housing that is actually 120-125mm wide (for 120mm fans), with either screw depth guards or (potentially even better) just making sure there is no channel directly behind the screw hole (it doesn't matter if those fins get damaged, but this allows for the fins/channels to come all the way up to the housing). And if you want bonus points... better availability than just PPCs.
> 
> As you can see though, this is why I tend towards HW labs radiators.


I also do know they are pretty restrictive, though that has never been an issue for a D5. I to think that might be another reason why they preform so well in that category. 

I do know the GTS is slightly thicker than your standard 360mm, maybe that is how they fit the split fins + 14 channels. When it comes to fitting a 360mm radiator, the issue is never the width. I had more headaches with length and positioning of the outlets. I actually had to mod my case to fit the two 360mm radiators.

When it comes to water cooling there seem to be to constant recommendations, the D5 pump and the 360 GTS. While many manufactures XSPC included carry the D5, the 360 GTS is manufacture specific. 

The one issue with Xtremerigs, is that they don't have some radiators up there. I don't think I see anything newer from 2016, so if XSPC or another company does come out with something new, I think people would be hesitant to buy a new radiator. It would be nice to see some newer radiator reviews. In one case I was looking at the Magicool G2 and the Magicool Slim line (older). Oddly the older style was about $15 more, but none of the specs lined up. It did have 14 water channels, but only 14FPI in a single fin configuration. As the data on both Magicool's website and on the boxes are not correct and there were no benchmarks on the older version Slim line, I didn't want to go with it, because the details were not on the Xtreme rigs site. It would be nice to see a site, like Gamers Nexxus start reviewing the radiators, though in all it shouldn't really be that complicated of a formula to make a better radiator. 

1) Longer Radiator = Better
2) More Water Channels = Better
3) 16FPI = Best overall performance under varying conditions. 
4) Split fins like XSPC uses for greater performance and durability
5) Thickness is one of the least important factors, due to the range of core sizes in radiators. Thickness also seems to be the biggest limiting factor a user could run into. Someone can get a radiator length to match there cases capability, though other things can impact how thick the radiator can be used. That is why I think a thicker core to thinner outer housing w/ some screw stops to prevent people from damaging the channels/fins. 

I think it would be awesome if XSPC designed a radiator outside the "box". Make the Radiator flush to outer housing so you get a thinner radiator. Then make side mounted brackets to mount it to the case/fans. Maybe only have one set of brackets to mount the radiator as very few people are going to do push/pull. The biggest issue many seem to have is, fitting thickness and then the length overall, when you account for the ends of the radiator. Maybe the clips could fasten to the side of the radiator and connect around the fans. Again most cases have more than enough width to play with. Also with a wider rad, even if the fan isn't touching it, you still get some benefits of passive cooling. 

I would love to see an Overclockers edition XSPC radiator, inspired by its users. ;-)

Until then I will enjoy their great support they provide on this forum as well as my CPU block, fittings, fluid, sensors, and my Photon D5! I am also glad they made improvements with their V2 Photon.


----------



## XSPC

There's a lot to get through there, so hopefully I won't miss anything.



> 11 Channels seems like an odd number, unless it is an X flow style radiator, doesn't that mean that it might only have 6 channels going to one end and have only 5 coming back the other way?


That's correct 6 on one side and 5 on the other. The EX series is used in our starter watercooling kits and sold to system builders. If we made it 12 tubes the radiator would be too wide and there would be compatibility issues.



> I put a lot of the specs and data into a spread sheet to compare a lot of radiators side by side. It does seem that ~14 channels, ~16 FPI, and split fins give great all around performance.


That depends on a few variables including core thickness, fin type, if the fins are louvered, etc.



> As for screws... All I have for a preference is that they are M4.


We will be keeping with 6-32UNC screws. They are the standard for PC cases.



> I know the main drawback of the GTS line is that they are very restrictive (for a radiator)


This might be a benefit in the Extremerigs review since they use a fixed flow rate in the testing. In my opinion it would be fairer to use a fixed pump power.


We have been keeping it quiet, but we're working on something that covers most of the requests you have brought up. It's something we have been working on for over 6 months now and we're getting close to launch.


----------



## TheArkratos

XSPC said:


> We will be keeping with 6-32UNC screws. They are the standard for PC cases.
> 
> This might be a benefit in the Extremerigs review since they use a fixed flow rate in the testing. In my opinion it would be fairer to use a fixed pump power.
> 
> We have been keeping it quiet, but we're working on something that covers most of the requests you have brought up. It's something we have been working on for over 6 months now and we're getting close to launch.


I totally understand on the screws thing. 6-32UNC is better than m3 still :thumb:

Agreed on the pump vs flow, but no one else has done a comprehensive review of such a large amount of radiators. It would be nice to see more reviews. With pumps varying, wearing over time, etc, at least they standardized it on something and did chart out the restrictiveness.

OooOOOOOoooooo Any word of when we'll get more details???

You should reach out to xtremerigs and see if they'd do a review and update the round up, because even if you don't top the charts (which I would hope you do or get close) being towards the top of the chart allows users to start picking based on other factors such as aesthetics, port layout, etc.

Can't wait so see what you have cooking! :wheee:


----------



## XSPC

TheArkratos said:


> OooOOOOOoooooo Any word of when we'll get more details???


We will have something to show next month.


----------



## Solarity

XSPC said:


> We will have something to show next month.


Looking forward to it, would love to compare it against the Magicool G2 360 and HW Labs GTS 360 that I am currently using. 

Also, thanks for addressing all the things we said. Do you guys have any different tubing that has less plasticizers than the tubing that comes with the kits? Within a few months the soft tubing that came with the XSPC kit is opaque from plasticizers. From what I understand only the black neoprene tubing is the only thing that is free of this problem. I know some other companies i.e. Tygon have some different formulas for the soft tubing, though don't know if that even solves the problem completely.

Lastly what can you tell me about the 2 year shelf life of the XSPC ECX concentrate? I stopped by FrozenCPU on the way home from work to look at it and saw that the white ECX had a manufacture date of 6/17 it cane in a twist top. I bought it along with a clear ECX concentrate to try mixing. Though I noticed the clear one came with a flip top, had no expiration date, and even came with about a 1/8th less fluid than the white. 

1) Is the difference in fluid amounts due to the clear lacking the pigment?
2) When did you guys stop manufacturing the fluid with a flip top?
3) Does the fluid start to break down after 2 years?

I did read in the reviews of the ECX in Xtremerigs that one concern was the lack of an exp. date. I am glad to see that the one manufactured in 6/17 does have this listed. Though I do worry about the shelf life and how long it took to go from XSPC to FrozenCPU and how long has it been sitting on FrozenCPU's inventory. They did say I could return it or swap it out for more of the white, if I felt concern after I posted this. After all the issues different fluids have been having as of late, I would like to reduce the chances of failure.

Thanks again for taking the time to answer the questions and sorry if we are coming across as rough. Your support and quick answers speaks volumes of your company and this is one of the points I tell others to buy XSPC products. Other companies like Magicool leave you guessing as no one is here to answer your questions and they miss label the stats on their boxes.


----------



## XSPC

Solarity said:


> Looking forward to it, would love to compare it against the Magicool G2 360 and HW Labs GTS 360 that I am currently using.
> 
> Also, thanks for addressing all the things we said. Do you guys have any different tubing that has less plasticizers than the tubing that comes with the kits? Within a few months the soft tubing that came with the XSPC kit is opaque from plasticizers. From what I understand only the black neoprene tubing is the only thing that is free of this problem. I know some other companies i.e. Tygon have some different formulas for the soft tubing, though don't know if that even solves the problem completely.
> 
> Lastly what can you tell me about the 2 year shelf life of the XSPC ECX concentrate? I stopped by FrozenCPU on the way home from work to look at it and saw that the white ECX had a manufacture date of 6/17 it cane in a twist top. I bought it along with a clear ECX concentrate to try mixing. Though I noticed the clear one came with a flip top, had no expiration date, and even came with about a 1/8th less fluid than the white.
> 
> 1) Is the difference in fluid amounts due to the clear lacking the pigment?
> 2) When did you guys stop manufacturing the fluid with a flip top?
> 3) Does the fluid start to break down after 2 years?
> 
> I did read in the reviews of the ECX in Xtremerigs that one concern was the lack of an exp. date. I am glad to see that the one manufactured in 6/17 does have this listed. Though I do worry about the shelf life and how long it took to go from XSPC to FrozenCPU and how long has it been sitting on FrozenCPU's inventory. They did say I could return it or swap it out for more of the white, if I felt concern after I posted this. After all the issues different fluids have been having as of late, I would like to reduce the chances of failure.
> 
> Thanks again for taking the time to answer the questions and sorry if we are coming across as rough. Your support and quick answers speaks volumes of your company and this is one of the points I tell others to buy XSPC products. Other companies like Magicool leave you guessing as no one is here to answer your questions and they miss label the stats on their boxes.


0. When did you buy the kit? The latest kits include DEHP free tubing.
1. No. The coolant is bottled by hand, so some variation is normal. On average the coolant is about 15mm from the neck.
2. I'll have to check when we started adding the production date and when we changed the cap.
3. No. The shelf life on the bottle is very conservative and it will be good for years longer as long as it has been stored correctly.


----------



## XSPC

2. We started adding the production date from October 2016. The caps were changed in 2014, so I would take them up on their offer of an exchange.


----------



## Solarity

XSPC said:


> 0. When did you buy the kit? The latest kits include DEHP free tubing.
> 1. No. The coolant is bottled by hand, so some variation is normal. On average the coolant is about 15mm from the neck.
> 2. I'll have to check when we started adding the production date and when we changed the cap.
> 3. No. The shelf life on the bottle is very conservative and it will be good for years longer as long as it has been stored correctly.


I bought two Raystorm Pro Photon D5 kits in November, I got them for a great price at FrozenCPU, though I think it was because they were new old stock. The kit had the older version Photon, that can't mount to the radiator. FCPU did shut there doors for a year or so, I think that explains a bit. I have since switched to hard line at the top, but I still use soft tubing for the basement. I really wouldn't have noticed, if I didn't redo my loop with hard line. As I was worried about a repeat I went with Primochill LRT. Though my dad did an identical build and I will replace his tubing, when I go visit him in a few months. Going forward is there anyway to distinguish the newer tubing, does it have a different name, etc?



XSPC said:


> 2. We started adding the production date from October 2016. The caps were changed in 2014, so I would take them up on their offer of an exchange.


Thanks for the heads up, I will do that. 

I don't know if my expectations for customer service is very low, but I am amazed by your knowledge or at least your ability to find the answers to the questions I ask. Not to mention your ability to respond back in quick time. I guess I am use to people rattling off a generic answer off a queue card. Also, I do like how XSPC continues to improve products. Most companies lack this, I also think they fail to understand that such good customer services serves to create raving fans. When someone is dissatisfied with a product, they tell 20 people, if they are happy with a product then they might only tell 1. 

Thanks again!


----------



## XSPC

Solarity said:


> Going forward is there anyway to distinguish the newer tubing, does it have a different name, etc?


Our FLX tubing is DEHP free. So any retail pack of FLX tubing will be free from DEHP plasticiser. Also any of the current kits on our website use DEHP free tubing.



Solarity said:


> I don't know if my expectations for customer service is very low, but I am amazed by your knowledge or at least your ability to find the answers to the questions I ask. Not to mention your ability to respond back in quick time. I guess I am use to people rattling off a generic answer off a queue card. Also, I do like how XSPC continues to improve products. Most companies lack this, I also think they fail to understand that such good customer services serves to create raving fans. When someone is dissatisfied with a product, they tell 20 people, if they are happy with a product then they might only tell 1. Thanks again!


Thanks for the kind words


----------



## fx3861

Does the clear coolant contains any surfactants as i'm doing some experiments with mica suspensions. Looking for any coolants that have some surfactants so my finer mica powders wonts sticks to the arcylic surfaces of the gpu blocks.


----------



## XSPC

fx3861 said:


> Does the clear coolant contains any surfactants as i'm doing some experiments with mica suspensions. Looking for any coolants that have some surfactants so my finer mica powders wonts sticks to the arcylic surfaces of the gpu blocks.


Sorry it wouldn't be suitable.


----------



## Aenra

You will forgive my asking (am sure it's been answered, but the in-thread searching is still broken, so..), but was wondering if you guys have any plans for thicker, higher RPM kind of rads?
Think EK's XE series, Hardware Labs's Nemesis GTRs, etc.


----------



## XSPC

Aenra said:


> You will forgive my asking (am sure it's been answered, but the in-thread searching is still broken, so..), but was wondering if you guys have any plans for thicker, higher RPM kind of rads?
> Think EK's XE series, Hardware Labs's Nemesis GTRs, etc.


We don't have any plans for one. The RX is the thickest radiator we have and we have no plans to make anything thicker.


----------



## Aenra

Many thanks for replying


----------



## Solarity

@XSPC I was suprised how well the RGB shines through the white ECX. I guess that even with the opaqueness it really diffuses the light really well.


----------



## XSPC

Solarity said:


> @XSPC I was suprised how well the RGB shines through the white ECX. I guess that even with the opaqueness it really diffuses the light really well.


Looks great


----------



## Solarity

XSPC said:


> Looks great


Just out of curiosity, has XSPC had any issues with people using Distilled water and copper sulfate in their loops?


----------



## XSPC

Solarity said:


> Just out of curiosity, has XSPC had any issues with people using Distilled water and copper sulfate in their loops?


Nothing to report, but we only launched a nickel plated GPU block recently.

I would always recommend a complete premix coolant over using copper sulphate and water.


----------



## Solarity

@XSPC - The suggestion on adding the resistor to the red anode helped with color matching the 5x5x2mm and 5mm round LEDs, though it still isn't perfect. From what I read, in order to properly calibrate the colors to the other colors, I need the data sheet, that way I can add the proper resistors to each anode. Could you get me a link to the data sheet or something? When the colors are primary like Red, Green, and Blue it is fine, though when I do a mix it still is off and noticeable with color cycle mode.


----------



## XSPC

Solarity said:


> @XSPC - The suggestion on adding the resistor to the red anode helped with color matching the 5x5x2mm and 5mm round LEDs, though it still isn't perfect. From what I read, in order to properly calibrate the colors to the other colors, I need the data sheet, that way I can add the proper resistors to each anode. Could you get me a link to the data sheet or something? When the colors are primary like Red, Green, and Blue it is fine, though when I do a mix it still is off and noticeable with color cycle mode.


Let me see if I can get the data sheets.


----------



## Solarity

XSPC said:


> Let me see if I can get the data sheets.


The Blue and Green appear fine, when mixing. I just need to adjust the resistance for the red, initially it was to high, though it now feels a little lower w/ the resistor that I put on it, per your suggestion. It is a lot better, though still needs to be improved. I might have to plug a strip and a XSPC LED into a bread board and try different resistor combinations to try to color match by eye.


----------



## S2000Gan

Here's a picture of my new case/watercooling loop in progress


----------



## b0z0

Here's a quick pic of my build. Entire build is XSPC components


----------



## Solarity

XSPC said:


> 1. The colour range isn't as wide a 5050 LEDs used in LED strips. Some users have reported good results by adding a 1k resistor to the red cathode. After this the LED better matches the colours from the motherboard.
> 
> 2. Yes it's easily removable. Just twist it and gently pull.
> 
> 3. Yes the colour range on our 255 RGB LED is the same as the 5mm RGB LED.


Just wanted to follow up on this. I did run a 1k resistor for a while, though it still wasn't perfect. After I did some testing 100 Ohm resistor seems to have fixed the issue.


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## Ksireaper

Just picked up a 2700x. Going to get a AM4 mounting kit for the Raystorm Pro block i have. I assume that i just use the stock backplate that came with the Crosshair motherboard? The kit does not need another backplate?


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## TheArkratos

Two questions:

Does the TX360 have ports on both sides? aka 4 ports?

And is it possible to get the "D5 Aluminium Screw Ring" without having been anodized?


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## XSPC

> Just picked up a 2700x. Going to get a AM4 mounting kit for the Raystorm Pro block i have. I assume that i just use the stock backplate that came with the Crosshair motherboard? The kit does not need another backplate?


 Yes just use the backplate that came with the motherboard




TheArkratos said:


> Two questions:
> 
> Does the TX360 have ports on both sides? aka 4 ports?
> 
> And is it possible to get the "D5 Aluminium Screw Ring" without having been anodized?


1. It only has two ports.
2. We don't have any without anodising.


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## Ksireaper

XSPC said:


> Yes just use the backplate that came with the motherboard
> 
> 
> 1. It only has two ports.
> 2. We don't have any without anodising.


Awesome! Ty.


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## TheArkratos

Where can I get the TX radiator in the US, specifically the 240 or 360 variant? PPCS doesn't have it yet and amazon hasn't been helpful either.


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## XSPC

TheArkratos said:


> Where can I get the TX radiator in the US, specifically the 240 or 360 variant? PPCS doesn't have it yet and amazon hasn't been helpful either.


So far only FrozenCPU have them listed. 
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10001802/ex-rad-789/XSPC_TX240_Ultrathin_Radiator.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10001803/ex-rad-790/XSPC_TX360_Ultrathin_Radiator_.html


Performance PCs and Amazon should have them up any day now.


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## XSPC

TitanRig have them up on Amazon now.

TX120 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FNWHM3D
TX240 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FNXCLCJ
TX360 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FNW1MSP
TX480 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FNXBJZ5


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## XSPC

I've attached our own internal testing of the TX series vs the EX and RX. Reviews will be coming soon.


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## TheArkratos

XSPC said:


> I've attached our own internal testing of the TX series vs the EX and RX. Reviews will be coming soon.



That is quite the radiator you have there, I know I'll be getting one at some point, just don't know for what build and if I'll be needing a 240 or 360. Great work guys.


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## outofmyheadyo

What do you guys think about the raystorm pro waterblock ? It is down to that or the heatkiller IV PRO mostly based on looks, I know most decent blocks perform within a half of a degree of each other and I`ve only ever had EK stuff before. And watercooling is pretty much about the form as it is for function these days.


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## TheArkratos

outofmyheadyo said:


> What do you guys think about the raystorm pro waterblock ? It is down to that or the heatkiller IV PRO mostly based on looks, I know most decent blocks perform within a half of a degree of each other and I`ve only ever had EK stuff before. And watercooling is pretty much about the form as it is for function these days.


Both are good blocks, I'm not sure about the normal raystorm but the threadripper block is basically the best performing threadripper block. I'm not sure about Ek's new theadripper block, but they as a company lost my respect after they repeatedly ignored and claimed there were no issues.

Every XSPC product I've had has been great, multiple pump/reservoirs and radiators, I haven't used their blocks personally yet, but I would have no qualm about trying them.

Every heatkiller product I've had has been great, only used their blocks. (I was able to get a naked TR4 block, no anodizing or plating, and thus got the block customized locally, so I have the only gold/copper tr4 block that I know of)


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## outofmyheadyo

That sounds great, do you have a picture of that block ?


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## TheArkratos

I sent you an message with a link to the post in my "King Ghidorah" build that has the image.

Moral of the story is, both companies make great products and have their own aesthetic.

Also I just received my XSPC TX240 radiator, super excited to put it in the case I'm designing. But right now I can get the measurements that I need that were lacking on the website. (THANK YOU FOR POSTING MEASUREMENTS, you were just missing a few I needed) This thing looks so unusual being this thin, I LOVE IT!


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## outofmyheadyo

That block is awesome!


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## XSPC

TheArkratos said:


> Where can I get the TX radiator in the US, specifically the 240 or 360 variant? PPCS doesn't have it yet and amazon hasn't been helpful either.


I know it's too late, but PPCS have them listed now. They have some Labor Day discount codes too.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=XSPC-TX


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## TheArkratos

Why is the top port on the proton not G1/4?

Do you sell an adapter so I can make a fill port?


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## XSPC

TheArkratos said:


> Why is the top port on the proton not G1/4?
> 
> Do you sell an adapter so I can make a fill port?


It's bigger to make the reservoir easier to fill.

We make a M20 to G1/4" adapter
http://www.xs-pc.com/adapter-cap-fittings/m20-to-g14-fillcap-adapter-black-chrome


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## TheArkratos

Thank you, I couldn't find that adapter when I looked, but I also didn't know exactly what to search for. As always you guys rock thanks!.


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## TheArkratos

XSPC, I have to say congrats and thank you for making the TX radiators. Techpowerup did a review and I am really impressed, I'll definitely be picking up a second one soon.

https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/XSPC/TX360/5.html


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## XSPC

TheArkratos said:


> XSPC, I have to say congrats and thank you for making the TX radiators. Techpowerup did a review and I am really impressed, I'll definitely be picking up a second one soon.
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/XSPC/TX360/5.html


Thanks. It did very well considering it was tested against much thicker radiators. The closest radiator dimensionally was the GTS at 30mm thick and 133mm wide vs the TX's 20.5mm and 125mm. 

It was nice to see it beating the 60mm thick UT60 at low rpm.


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## TheArkratos

XSPC said:


> Thanks. It did very well considering it was tested against much thicker radiators. The closest radiator dimensionally was the GTS at 30mm thick and 133mm wide vs the TX's 20.5mm and 125mm.
> 
> It was nice to see it beating the 60mm thick UT60 at low rpm.


And honestly that's where most users want their fan speeds.


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## TangoEchoAlpha

*Anyone fitted the RayStorm Pro to AM4 recently?*

So I have ordered a RayStorm Pro RGB to cool my 2700X. I've looked at the instructions on the XSPC website in advance, which suggests that I need to use a clear washer on the short end of the mounting posts (i.e. on the top surface of the motherboard) and then a further two clear washers and a metal washer over each of the posts and on the top surface of the mounting block.

I am a bit confused as the photos on the XSPC website only show 8 clear washers and 4 metal washers - so the photo would seem to be missing 4 clear washers, or the current instructions on the XSPC website are somehow different?

Can anyone who's bought/fitted a RayStorm Pro to AM4 recently shed some light on this? Thanks


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## ryan92084

TangoEchoAlpha said:


> So I have ordered a RayStorm Pro RGB to cool my 2700X. I've looked at the instructions on the XSPC website in advance, which suggests that I need to use a clear washer on the short end of the mounting posts (i.e. on the top surface of the motherboard) and then a further two clear washers and a metal washer over each of the posts and on the top surface of the mounting block.
> 
> I am a bit confused as the photos on the XSPC website only show 8 clear washers and 4 metal washers - so the photo would seem to be missing 4 clear washers, or the current instructions on the XSPC website are somehow different?
> 
> Can anyone who's bought/fitted a RayStorm Pro to AM4 recently shed some light on this? Thanks


It looks like the pro instructions are the same as the NEO which I have used. You should get thicker nylon washers x4 for between the motherboard and post, thin plastic washers x8 (using 4 or 8 depending on socket) for between the block and metal washers, and metal washers x4 for between the plastic and springs.


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## XSPC

TangoEchoAlpha said:


> So I have ordered a RayStorm Pro RGB to cool my 2700X. I've looked at the instructions on the XSPC website in advance, which suggests that I need to use a clear washer on the short end of the mounting posts (i.e. on the top surface of the motherboard) and then a further two clear washers and a metal washer over each of the posts and on the top surface of the mounting block.
> 
> I am a bit confused as the photos on the XSPC website only show 8 clear washers and 4 metal washers - so the photo would seem to be missing 4 clear washers, or the current instructions on the XSPC website are somehow different?
> 
> Can anyone who's bought/fitted a RayStorm Pro to AM4 recently shed some light on this? Thanks


It's 2 nylon washers on each post for AM4 and one for AM3. Then you add one metal washer, a spring and the nut.


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## mumford

Any chance that you guys will make a TX 280?


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## TangoEchoAlpha

XSPC said:


> It's 2 nylon washers on each post for AM4 and one for AM3. Then you add one metal washer, a spring and the nut.





ryan92084 said:


> It looks like the pro instructions are the same as the NEO which I have used. You should get thicker nylon washers x4 for between the motherboard and post, thin plastic washers x8 (using 4 or 8 depending on socket) for between the block and metal washers, and metal washers x4 for between the plastic and springs.


Thanks for both the replies  
@XSPC - is it two nylon washers on the surface of the motherboard - i.e. under the posts?


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## XSPC

TangoEchoAlpha said:


> Thanks for both the replies
> 
> @XSPC - is it two nylon washers on the surface of the motherboard - i.e. under the posts?


One under the posts and two on the bracket, if it's AM4.


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## TangoEchoAlpha

XSPC said:


> One under the posts and two on the bracket, if it's AM4.


Thanks


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## BucketInABucket

Seconded the TX280 want


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## TheArkratos

BucketInABucket said:


> Seconded the TX280 want


I always wondered why that didn't exist, if it did I'd probably buy one, I'm already up to 3 TX240s that have passed through my hands.

1 in a friend's computer, 1 in my girlfriend's computer, and I still have 1 that I have a build planned for.

The TX rads are amazing and thank you XSPC for making them, I hope they are selling well enough you make 140 versions.


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## oscar7601

Hello everyone,
I'm writing here because I have a liquid cooling loop that I have built about one year ago, and I have a problem with a 90° angle fitting from XSPC that is leaking from both ends (male and female).
It is one just like this : https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Degree-Adapter-Fitting-Threads/dp/B00CS12OZI
I've had great experience with alphacool and barrow fittings but I thought these ones looked good so I gave them a try.
The leaky fitting is tight on both ends so I'm unsure why it's leaking, and I must say this is happening pretty much at the worst moment in the middle of this CoVid-19 crisis.
This is unfortunate and I would like to know if I am the first one experiencing this kind of problem with these fittings.

Wishing you, your friends and family are and will remain healthy.

By the way, I hope I posted this message in the right thread. Feel free to move it otherwise.


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## BugFreak

Probably better to make your own thread for this post because it might get lost in this topic. It's pretty safe to assume we all have experienced a leak of some sort. Yours might have just gone bad at the seal. Have you recently twisted it by accident or maybe loosened it while working on something else in the pc? I would try to tighten it a little if possible, otherwise its time for a rebuild.

As for the Barrow fittings, there is a huge thread on them a couple lines down you can read up on. I've always used ek and Bitspower fittings but just bought some Barrow and they seem tight and look good. Still building the pc so no leak test but feel good so far. No experience with Alphacool fittings but I've used many other products of theirs with zero problems.


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