# Cable Sleeving Gallery & Discussion



## nafljhy

let me be the first to add to this thread.































































---------
Finished:


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## rmvvwls

Damn nafljhy, your sleeving looks so fuzzy and inviting...


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## NeverGive7

nice


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## da tick 07

mdpc-x. only the best


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## nafljhy

here is another project i did:
the pcie connectors








the SATA connectors








the shortened molex connectors








the 8pin EPS connector








and of course the 24 pin atx connector








and all of it zip tied and getting it ready to go.








the molex extensions








the 8pin extension








the molex Y splitter.


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## spice003

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nafljhy* 
let me be the first to add to this thread.



















is that sleeving made out of fabric(like the kind that logitech g5 has) if so can you tell me where you get it?


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## WarlordOne

It's been a while since I've posted these...


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## kevingreenbmx

here is what i got:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

and

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

I also got some of this to cover solder joints:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

I used about 200ft of sleeve and 20ft of heatshrink to do the whole PSU and all my fans and my front panel.

It probably took me about 5-6 hours total to do all the work. It would have been quicker if I had a heat gun, but I just used a candle.

also, get one of these pin remover tools:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/38...tl=g35c133s257

They work great for both types of pins. I did break one half way through though so you might want to get 2.

For more pics check out my worklog, I am not done yet, so subscribe if you want to see the end product.


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## WarlordOne

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
here is what i got:...

Nice.

Funny as that's exactly what I've been recommending. 

BTW, this is the best pin removal tool:


















Cost nothing and still not broken.


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## kev_b

Iâ€™m so jealous!


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## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WarlordOne* 
BTW, this is the best pin removal tool:

..........

Cost nothing and still not broken.

yea, i tried that and I found it too hard to use with my connectors. :-(


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## nafljhy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spice003* 
is that sleeving made out of fabric(like the kind that logitech g5 has) if so can you tell me where you get it?

http://cableorganizer.com/nylon-multifilament/


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## spice003

thanx







very nice looking sleeving by the way


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## pcnuttie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nafljhy* 
here is another project i did:*snip*

Dude i like those sleeves i have them too but along with UV FULL blue sleeves seperated, can you post pics what they look like when they are lit by UV in your case please? I would love to see what they all look like in it!







Superhero Sleeves ftw, from pc performances, dude i heard orge is so bright! Mine has sorta like a spiderman and superman color feel, I need some kryptonite color in it lol.

Repo edit: Please don't quote so many pictures.


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## rmvvwls

Please don't quote a hundred pics at a time...


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## da tick 07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rmvvwls* 
Please don't quote a hundred pics at a time...









x2. my internet isnt slow but i have it set so i view 100 posts at a time instead of 10 and when people continually quote like 8 pictures, it can take a while to load


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## mav2000

Heres mine:


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## nafljhy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
Dude i like those sleeves i have them too but along with UV FULL blue sleeves seperated, can you post pics what they look like when they are lit by UV in your case please? I would love to see what they all look like in it!







Superhero Sleeves ftw, from pc performances, dude i heard orge is so bright! Mine has sorta like a spiderman and superman color feel, I need some kryptonite color in it lol.

thanks but i sleeved those for a friend i never had a picture of them under UV light. sorry. about that.


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## Bakedinspace

RRRRRR I hate having private worklogs only for the case mod contest, this thread is soooo tempting to post in.


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## nafljhy

just bear with it.


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## Aqualoon

So really hot pics guys!


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## Rebel4055

I <3 sleeved PSUs but I couldn't bother sleeving one myself


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## pcnuttie

I can't believe you be willing to shell out more money for mpc sleeves when you can get power blends half the price they sell, they don't even UV glow that bright. Power Blends are the best.


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## oliverw92

Most people don't want it to glow UV lol. And Power Blends are no where near as tight-a-weave as MDPC. I personally find most of the blends fugly too.


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## mav2000

Well MDPC has great service and super sleeving..its a really dense weave..its not like ure going to do this ten times, rather spend on good stuff.


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## GeforceGTS

Not as neat and perfect as some others but heres mine


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## nafljhy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mav2000* 
Well MDPC has great service and super sleeving..its a really dense weave..its not like ure going to do this ten times, rather spend on good stuff.

thats true. MDPC has some goood sleeving.. but as for the number of times a person does it... i'm at 4 and about to hit 5









Quote:


Originally Posted by *GeforceGTS* 
Not as neat and perfect as some others but heres mine









what are you talking about geforce? it looks great!


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## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GeforceGTS* 
Not as neat and perfect as some others but heres mine









looks great man, but do me a favor and turn your flash off.  (seriously, it will make your pics look 100x better)


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## GeforceGTS

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
looks great man, but do me a favor and turn your flash off.  (seriously, it will make your pics look 100x better)

Camera sucks and I suck









I took some without flash and these ones looked better


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## oliverw92

Take them in daylight, preferably a bright but cloudy day. Get a table put it by the window. Put the white tablecloth/bedsheet on the table and stretch it out so its perfectly smooth. Put the pc on the table so the open side is facing the window but at an angle. Use a tripod (if you don't have one, get a stack of clothes and put the camera on it). You should get much better pics.


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## GeforceGTS

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Take them in daylight, preferably a bright but cloudy day. Get a table put it by the window. Put the white tablecloth/bedsheet on the table and stretch it out so its perfectly smooth. Put the pc on the table so the open side is facing the window but at an angle. Use a tripod (if you don't have one, get a stack of clothes and put the camera on it). You should get much better pics.

But then you would see all the dust!









Thanks for the tips though







Maybe one day when I'm not so lazy and I've cleaned out my PC I'll get round to doing that.


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## oliverw92

Get a can of compressed air


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## NYM

Hey guys,

when you remove the pcie pins from the head, must i put them back in the *origina*l position? OR i can just simply put them in *new* positions?

(I know that for atx, they HAVE colours on the cable to identify which positions)


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## MisterAutomatic

Just a couple right now, but I will return with more, since ya'll getting thugnificent with the pics:


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## Neokolzia

Could you sleeve a Corsair 850HX without voiding the warranty since it is only semi Modular? ATX, 8pin, and 2x 2+6 Pins


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## sP00N

Dang I'm lovin the individual sleeved cables! I might give that a try since my 24 pin connector on my OCZ has no sleeve ( took it off to fit it behinf my mobo tray on my centurion 5 >.<)


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## Mikecdm

One of the few things that I've sleeved.


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## Neokolzia

is there a reason why most people are sleeving with the small sleeve rather then bunching the wires into 1 larger sleeve.

Also when De-pinning say a ATX cable how do you remember which cable is which?


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## Erick Silver

Single sleeving allows you to manipulate the wires better for fit and function. Its easier to "get flat" with many wires than it is with one big bunch.


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## NeverGive7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Neokolzia* 
is there a reason why most people are sleeving with the small sleeve rather then bunching the wires into 1 larger sleeve.

Also when De-pinning say a ATX cable how do you remember which cable is which?

Go here 24 Pin ATX pinout and scroll down the page a little bit and you will see a chart that shows you the pinout.


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## GeforceGTS

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Neokolzia* 
is there a reason why most people are sleeving with the small sleeve rather then bunching the wires into 1 larger sleeve.

Also when De-pinning say a ATX cable how do you remember which cable is which?

I did my ATX cable one wire at a time so I didn't mess up









Some people mark each cable and were it was taken from with a bit of masking tape and write a number on though..

I did each cable individualy since I wanted a black/red theme but I think it just looks generaly better than all of them being bunched up in one sleeve


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## Erick Silver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rmvvwls* 
Damn nafljhy, your sleeving looks so fuzzy and inviting...

















See how the individual sleeving lays flat on the back of the motherboard plate? (with help from what looks like tape or mounting brackets). If you were to bundle them all up into a bunch you would not be able to fit the cable between the Mobo Plate and the side of the case. Not to mention the abilitiy to take tighten corners.


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## sdla4ever

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Erick Silver* 
See how the individual sleeving lays flat on the back of the motherboard plate? (with help from what looks like tape or mounting brackets). If you were to bundle them all up into a bunch you would not be able to fit the cable between the Mobo Plate and the side of the case. Not to mention the abilitiy to take tighten corners.

this is the exact reason im thinking of having someone do my HX650 up nice for me


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## nafljhy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Erick Silver* 
See how the individual sleeving lays flat on the back of the motherboard plate? (with help from what looks like tape or mounting brackets). If you were to bundle them all up into a bunch you would not be able to fit the cable between the Mobo Plate and the side of the case. Not to mention the abilitiy to take tighten corners.

are you just mentioning the benefits of sleeving cables individually?

slda! do it yourself!







you'll feel damn proud at the end.


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## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NYM* 
Hey guys,

when you remove the pcie pins from the head, must i put them back in the *origina*l position? OR i can just simply put them in *new* positions?

(I know that for atx, they HAVE colours on the cable to identify which positions)

Generally, it doesnt matter as long as the same colour goes in the same place. Sometimes, however, the yellow 12v may be on different rails, so it is always a good idea to put them back in the same place. You can get around this by only removing one at a time, then putting it back.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Neokolzia* 
Could you sleeve a Corsair 850HX without voiding the warranty since it is only semi Modular? ATX, 8pin, and 2x 2+6 Pins

Yes, corsair have officially said sleeving their psu's does not void the warranty as long as you don't open up the psu.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Neokolzia* 
is there a reason why most people are sleeving with the small sleeve rather then bunching the wires into 1 larger sleeve.

Also when De-pinning say a ATX cable how do you remember which cable is which?

1 larger sleeve looks worse (you can see through the sleeve) and it will never stay covering all the cables.

I don't remember, i only remove one at a time. Some people label them.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Erick Silver* 
Single sleeving allows you to manipulate the wires better for fit and function. Its easier to "get flat" with many wires than it is with one big bunch.

Actually i find single sleeving makes it much worse to manipulate, although i agree it is easier to get it flat.


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## detroitpc313

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kev_b* 
Iâ€™m so jealous!









This!! :swearing:


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## Neokolzia

Ah ok, And for that I guess just unplug 1 ATX then Sleeve and plug back in?

Or is there a teq to do all of the Repinning?


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## oliverw92

Just unplug one using a pin-remover tool, sleeve it, then plug it back in. If you are making them alot longer aswell as sleeving, i like to buy a new 24-pin plug for a few pennies and then do the same thing but plug them into the new plug.


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## MijnWraak

Finally finished sleeving my 24-pin on my "new" 650tx. I bundled 4 wires together in 1/8" black clean cut sleeving with 1/4" adhesive lined heatshrink. My fingers are absolutely killing me after using about 30 staples, and somehow managed to cut my tongue. I used about 10 feet of the 100 I bought, so I feel obligated to finish the rest of the PSU at a later date, but unsure how the wires will fit outside the opening in the psu.

It _does_ seem kind of silly to focus on the tiniest of details in a black case that doesn't get much light, especially with black sleeving









I would do it again though! Hope to get pics up in a day or two, been really busy lately.


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## Bakedinspace

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mikecdm* 
One of the few things that I've sleeved.










Nice, really helps the look of that adapter +rep


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## hitman1985

heres some of my stuffz i did back in the day


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## tombom

Cool stuff guys. Wish I had the patience.


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## Zombies8myBrain

I'm thinking of taking the plunge and sleeving my PSU cables, what size sleeve would I need? If it matters I'm using a Rosewill PSU.


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## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zombies8myBrain* 
I'm thinking of taking the plunge and sleeving my PSU cables, what size sleeve would I need? If it matters I'm using a Rosewill PSU.

To be honest, it might not be worth sleeving a cheap PSU like a rosewill, but if you do decide to, or you get a better psu:

1/8" will be good for bundling 1 to 4 cables into one. If you want to sleeve larger bundles, 1/4" and 1/2" will be good. If you don't want to spend too much bundling large amounts will be cheaper but won't look as classy. Depending on your budget, either purchase "Clean Cut" from FurryLetters' eBay store or anything off of MDPC-X (more expensive)








Make sure to take pictures for us.


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## 88EVGAFTW

I hope none of you take offense to this, but take this as constructive criticism. Most of the sleeving jobs I have seen in this thread made me die a little bit inside, and shudder. A lot of the pieces of heatshrink are un even in length and coverage in most of the 24pin mobo connectors, mostly the first pictures nafljhy posted, and lots of others. Member rvmwls did a very good job on his.

Allow me to explain with pictures. I suggest when sleeving the 24 pin and 8 pin - 6 pin to make all the pieces of heat shrink the same length and cover the same length of sleeve. Here are some pictures of my sleeving to explain:










Notice how even all the lengths are and how uniform it looks. Those pieces of heatshrink are about 5/8 long. Here are more



























And now my 24 pin connector


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## Syrillian

The Truth is in the _details_.

Nice work there, 88.


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## da tick 07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
I hope none of you take offense to this, but take this as constructive criticism. Most of the sleeving jobs I have seen in this thread made me die a little bit inside, and shudder. A lot of the pieces of heatshrink are un even in length and coverage in most of the 24pin mobo connectors, mostly the first pictures nafljhy posted, and lots of others. Member rvmwls did a very good job on his.

couldnt agree more! it was my first shot at sleeving but i think for the most part its even. in my pics i didnt move the sleeves down all the way so some appear uneven but actually arent


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## 88EVGAFTW

Here is an example of some very fine sleeving work. notice how the heat shrinks look uniform and the 24 pin is pretty even for most part. Pretty symmetrical if an axis was put between every wire.

http://www.overclock.net/other-hardw...ml#post8377091

And an almost perfect 24 pin connector




































http://www.overclock.net/other-hardw...ml#post8376955


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## nafljhy

i definitely know where you are coming from 88. it still bugs me that brassie has some unevenness in its sleeving.







in compensation, it has built up my experience working with mulitfilament nylon.







so quantum's sleeving is much much nicer.







unfortunately, i won't be posting its pictures here until the build is finished.









EDIT: and when my name was mentioned, did you mean that my sleeving was that uneven?


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## 88EVGAFTW

Yes. Anyways, here is more p*R*on for you all. Note my 24 pin is not that great, rvmwwls did a much better job on his.

I know the pics are over exposed, but whatever, I'm no photographer, and my light bulb gives off the nasty yellowish light


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## nafljhy

ah, ok. well i can't disagree it is uneven. but experience will make up for it in the future.









and nice job 88 but why does it look like one of the wires is loose?


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## 88EVGAFTW

What lose wire? Looks fine to me.


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## nafljhy

or is there some connection in front of your 24pin?


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## Hickeydog

Quick question: What's the best sleeve size/heatshrink size to do mono sleeving?


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## nafljhy

1/8" sleeving with 1/8" heatshrink (3:1 shrink ratio though. i accidentally got myself 2:1 and it just doesn't stick as well)


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## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
Here is an example of some very fine sleeving work. notice how the heat shrinks look uniform and the 24 pin is pretty even for most part. Pretty symmetrical if an axis was put between every wire.

http://www.overclock.net/other-hardw...ml#post8377091

Thanks for the vote of confidence 88EVGAFTW. ;-)

I also noticed that about a lot of the pics people where posting...


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## sdla4ever

i just ordered my stuff from mdpc i hope i get the hang of this so my HX650 looks good lol


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## da tick 07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nafljhy* 









or is there some connection in front of your 24pin?

looks like a fan


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## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *da tick 07* 
looks like a fan

lol THAT is the rpm sensor for the 140mm fan for my PSU.


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## Killhouse

Not the best sleeving in the world, but its my first time







More pics if you click my worklog in sig. Excuse the small mass of black wires below the motherboard in some of the pictures, it's the fan controller I built that I dont have time to mount


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## Raiden911

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
lol THAT is the rpm sensor for the 140mm fan for my PSU.

yep.


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## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nafljhy* 
1/8" sleeving with 1/8" heatshrink (3:1 shrink ratio though. i accidentally got myself 2:1 and it just doesn't stick as well)

do you mean 1/4" heatshrink? It's impossible for me to fit 1/8" heatshrink around 1/8" sleeving!


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## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
do you mean 1/4" heatshrink? It's impossible for me to fit 1/8" heatshrink around 1/8" sleeving!

Its quite possible with some work, but I used something just a hair bigger than 1/8 shrink, I got it at Home Depot, it is 3/16 Heat Shrink


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## nafljhy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
lol THAT is the rpm sensor for the 140mm fan for my PSU.

oooh!







my bad.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
do you mean 1/4" heatshrink? It's impossible for me to fit 1/8" heatshrink around 1/8" sleeving!

its quite possible for 1/8" heatshrink to go over 1/8" sleeving. i use needle nose pliers to stretch out my 1/8" heatshrink to make it fit over my sleeving.


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## sdla4ever

also a suggestion to the OP, try to make this thread cleaner like the WC showcase thread..

just a idea


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## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sdla4ever* 
also a suggestion to the OP, try to make this thread cleaner like the WC showcase thread..

just a idea

It would also help if the posters here didn't quote half a dozen images at once... that's a lot of clutter to move through, especially when it's set for 100 posts per page. :/


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## LiNERROR

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88evgaftw* 
i hope none of you take offense to this, but take this as constructive criticism. Most of the sleeving jobs i have seen in this thread made me die a little bit inside, and shudder. A lot of the pieces of heatshrink are un even in length and coverage in most of the 24pin mobo connectors, mostly the first pictures nafljhy posted, and lots of others. Member rvmwls did a very good job on his.

Allow me to explain with pictures. I suggest when sleeving the 24 pin and 8 pin - 6 pin to make all the pieces of heat shrink the same length and cover the same length of sleeve. Here are some pictures of my sleeving to explain:

Notice how even all the lengths are and how uniform it looks. Those pieces of heatshrink are about 5/8 long. Here are more

and now my 24 pin connector


very nice!


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## nafljhy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp* 
It would also help if the posters here didn't quote half a dozen images at once... that's a lot of clutter to move through, especially when it's set for 100 posts per page. :/

hehe.. i know what you mean.


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## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sdla4ever* 
also a suggestion to the OP, try to make this thread cleaner like the WC showcase thread..

just a idea

well, I'm usually against totalitarianism, but it is quite annoying when people quote images. If only I was a moderator


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## nafljhy

after 88's post.. i was a bit annoyed with my own sleeving that i went and double checked Brassie's sleeving.

for the 24pin, it is mostly even except for the thick wire. for some odd reason, i needed to wires there and i had to use a thicker sleeving and i got the length a bit off and same with the heatshrink. so for those wires, they are of a different length but i don't want to deal with that again so i'm going to just leave it as no one will see that any way.

but for the 8pin.. man.. i don't know how that happened its soo bad its just ridiculous. i'll be going through those 8 again and redo them to look better.









the SATA wires, GPU cables, and sound card's cables were all ok. so its just the 8 pins that are bugging the crap out of me now. :x

EDIT: i'm actually considering resleeving the GPU cables with monosleeving instead of the 3wire sleeving i have now...


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## maximus20895

I'm debating or not sleeving my hx650 or not. The cables are already black and they are "glued" together. I just don't know if it's worth it or not.

Also, how do you guys get the heatshrink into the little openings in the connectors? I tried, but couldn't do it. Do you shrink it before you put the pins in or do you do it after?


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## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maximus20895* 
I'm debating or not sleeving my hx650 or not. The cables are already black and they are "glued" together. I just don't know if it's worth it or not.

Also, how do you guys get the heatshrink into the little openings in the connectors? I tried, but couldn't do it. Do you shrink it before you put the pins in or do you do it after?

IMO you should leave the modular cables as they are. The 24-pin and any other ones that cannot be removed can be sleeved by de-pinning them. You have to disconnect the cable from the ATX connector and then put the sleeving and heatshrink over the cable and then put the pin back into the ATX connector.


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## hitman1985

i ll have a nicer sleeving done soon again too, but i doubt ill waste my time sleeving my 620 hx, as the cables are already decently black







i ll have some kinda stuff comming in the next couple of weeks, if i get my am3 rig traded, i wantz i7 back


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## maximus20895

Yea, I guess I will do that. The ones that are sleeved as a whole are the ATX and the 8 pin for the mobo, the SATA, PCI-E and molex are black cables that are "glued" together.

Good call









Now, do I shrink the heatshrink when the pin is out of the connector or do I "stuff" the heatshrink in the connector and then shrink it?


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## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maximus20895* 
Yea, I guess I will do that. The ones that are sleeved as a whole are the ATX and the 8 pin for the mobo, the SATA, PCI-E and molex are black cables that are "glued" together.

Good call









Now, do I shrink the heatshrink when the pin is out of the connector or do I "stuff" the heatshrink in the connector and then shrink it?

If you want them all to be at the same level, cut all the heatshrink to the same length, put it on top of the sleeve, and then put all of the sleeved cables into the connector. Then line them up so they're half on the sleeve, half on the cable, make them all level, then shrink 'em.

Alternatively, shrink them right up to the metal part of the pin, making sure every heatshrink you cut is the same exact length. As long as you shrink them at the same location (end of pin) they should be even when you connect them.

And thanks for the rep


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## nafljhy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
If you want them all to be at the same level, cut all the heatshrink to the same length, put it on top of the sleeve, and then put all of the sleeved cables into the connector. Then line them up so they're half on the sleeve, half on the cable, make them all level, then shrink 'em.

Alternatively, shrink them right up to the metal part of the pin, making sure every heatshrink you cut is the same exact length. As long as you shrink them at the same location (end of pin) they should be even when you connect them.

And thanks for the rep









yea.. thats a good tip! i actually did it the opposite. i did the back end first when i first started sleeving.. and so the front ends would become uneven... :x (i did the back end first because i wanted to make sure the sleeving was all the way in the PSU. i realize this was a mistake on my part... ><)


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## maximus20895

Well I tried to shrink it on the pin, but when it came time to plug the pins in the connector they wouldn't go in due to the heatshrink being to big or something.

I guess this time I will line the heatshrink up and then heat them all at once.


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## da tick 07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maximus20895* 
Well I tried to shrink it on the pin, but when it came time to plug the pins in the connector they wouldn't go in due to the heatshrink being to big or something.

I guess this time I will line the heatshrink up and then heat them all at once.

you need to leave just about an 1/8th of and inch(maybe slightly more) between the sleeving and metal pin otherwise it wont fit. (this varies with connector)


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## seven9st surfer

Here's a few pics from my latest build.





































I didn't sleeve all the way into the PSU cause I didn't feel like cracking it open, I didn't have enough sleeving, and you don't see the difference anyways. And I'm lazy.


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## spiderm0nkey

The only problem I have with sleeving every wire individually is the mass that it adds. If I go ahead with my copper tubing cable management idea, I will have to sleeve the whole bunch of cables for each connector instead.


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## 88EVGAFTW

Get to work nastyJHY







I hope you don't mind me calling you that







it just comes to mind everytime I see your name.

I need to fix a few sleeves, just came out of the heatshrink is all.

Nice work SvenSUrfer but next time I suggest getting Clean Cut sleeves, of any brand, the ones you have are regular PET and those show the wiring.


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## maximus20895

seven surfer, what are those weird connections on the back of your case and did you make that black box thing that coves your PSU? I would like to have that.

I just got done ripping everything apart. My case was nice, but this thread has given me motivation to make it much more pleasing. I over obsess with this.


----------



## seven9st surfer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maximus20895* 
seven surfer, what are those weird connections on the back of your case and did you make that black box thing that coves your PSU? I would like to have that.

I just got done ripping everything apart. My case was nice, but this thread has given me motivation to make it much more pleasing. I over obsess with this.

The "weird connections" are all my fans hooked up to a terminal block. Notice that even with all the fans I have running, you don't see any molex connectors. Made the entire build a lot easier.

And yeah, I made the PSU cover. Check out my build log in my sig. Covers both things you asked about


----------



## nafljhy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
Get to work nastyJHY







I hope you don't mind me calling you that







it just comes to mind everytime I see your name.

I need to fix a few sleeves, just came out of the heatshrink is all.

Nice work SvenSUrfer but next time I suggest getting Clean Cut sleeves, of any brand, the ones you have are regular PET and those show the wiring.

i don't mind. some odd reason. my thing cut out and i restarted it and it seems to be working again.

EDIT: LOL! whoops i thought i was in the [email protected] section.







but yea, i'll get them redone hopefully this weekend. when i get some new parts in.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *seven9st surfer* 
The "weird connections" are all my fans hooked up to a terminal block. Notice that even with all the fans I have running, you don't see any molex connectors. Made the entire build a lot easier.

And yeah, I made the PSU cover. Check out my build log in my sig. Covers both things you asked about

i used to have terminal blocks but then i found them to be very annoying when i worked on my case so i got rid of them. :\\

very useful if you don't touch your case that often.


----------



## seven9st surfer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
Nice work SvenSUrfer but next time I suggest getting Clean Cut sleeves, of any brand, the ones you have are regular PET and those show the wiring.

Yeah, I know. Got the cheap stuff off ebay. The MDPC stuff was out of stock. I actually got the clean-cut stuff in a few places with thicker wires, like the USB leads, but I only had 2:1 heat shrink, which made it unusable on the small, single wires. Lesson learned, though. With that said, I actually kind of like the hint of color showing through in some places, like the HDD wires.

Next time I'll definitely use MDPC with their 4:1 heat shrink. Must be awesome to work with that stuff


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *seven9st surfer* 
Yeah, I know. Got the cheap stuff off ebay. The MDPC stuff was out of stock. I actually got the clean-cut stuff in a few places with thicker wires, like the USB leads, but I only had 2:1 heat shrink, which made it unusable on the small, single wires. Lesson learned, though. With that said, I actually kind of like the hint of color showing through in some places, like the HDD wires.

Next time I'll definitely use MDPC with their 4:1 heat shrink. Must be awesome to work with that stuff

I use 3/16 heatshrink frrm Home Depot and it shrinks perfect on single wires







also fits snugly over 1/8 sleeves. It costs 2.14$ with tax and has 8 pieces of 4"


----------



## maximus20895

Just got done depinning the ATX. I did it with staples. At first I couldn't get the pins out, but later I took some needle nose pliers and pushed them in until I heard a click and they popped right out. Was very simple once I got the hang out it.

Now I just have to sleeve them and the 8 pin power. I may do the PCI-E if I have enough sleeving.


----------



## MijnWraak

bump


----------



## maximus20895

I just ordered lights and black SATA cables. hopefully they will come tues or wed


----------



## Drug

murder mod MDPC sleeving is the way 2 go mate


----------



## maximus20895

I think it's wayy over priced. I got some stuff on ebay rom furryletters and I don't know how it could it any better than that. I got 100+ sleeving and heatshrink for less than $25.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maximus20895* 
I think it's wayy over priced. I got some stuff on ebay rom furryletters and I don't know how it could it any better than that. I got 100+ sleeving and heatshrink for less than $25.

Yeah the Clean Cut stuff was really great quality for the price. I thought spending $30ish just to sleeve cables on a $65 psu that won't even get that much sight was a bit high, so to spend nearly $100? meh


----------



## maximus20895

Yea I can't imagine spending that much. Maybe for a high end job that has to be perfect, but I didn't see any flaws in the clean cut. I wouldn't know what to improve with the sleeving and I don't know what's better about mdpc than clean cut.


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maximus20895* 
Yea I can't imagine spending that much. Maybe for a high end job that has to be perfect, but I didn't see any flaws in the clean cut. I wouldn't know what to improve with the sleeving and I don't know what's better about mdpc than clean cut.

its tighter and multiple braided sleeving ending up in a nicer coverage of the cables, in simple words, the cable colors wont look thru the sleeving as in techflexx's sleeving its only single braids....

but for the price and the effect id take techflexx over mdpc


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 
its tighter and multiple braided sleeving ending up in a nicer coverage of the cables, in simple words, the cable colors wont look thru the sleeving as in techflexx's sleeving its only single braids....

but for the price and the effect id take techflexx over mdpc









clean cut has a triple braid


----------



## maximus20895

Yea. I can't see the cables at all even when bending them. I would like to have 4 to 1 heatshrink though.


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
clean cut has a triple braid









wow, never used that one







i guess i ll have to switch sometime to that sleeving then (i thought the techflexx was all the same braiding, as it looked like it at the store). right now i still have a 100ft roll tho xD i buy it from grainger local as its around the corner and cheaper then furryletter in matters of regular pet sleeving


----------



## maximus20895

how many braids is mdpc?


----------



## oliverw92

Not sure, the white is the best white i have ever used though. I have tried samples of all types of TechFlex (including clean cut), some generic stuff from rapidonline.com and then MDPC white. Out of all the whites, MDPC was the best and covered up the coloured cables. They still show through a tiny bit though, but that is given with white sleeve. Only way to stop that is to wrap the cables in white electrical tape before sleeving.


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Drug* 
murder mod MDPC sleeving is the way 2 go mate









hehe that's where I ordered mine from, paid 70 bucks for everything. The owner is a very nice and friendly guy too.


----------



## maximus20895

Was the phsycopack not enough?


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maximus20895* 
Was the phsycopack not enough?

it would have been plenty but I have a case project im working on with red accents and their packs come only in black, I needed red ones too so I built my own lil pack, as well as red heat shrink.

Shipping to the US was like 15USD so that didn't help lol


----------



## maximus20895

OH okay. Have you completed the project?


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maximus20895* 
OH okay. Have you completed the project?

lol far from sir.

http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...rt-dragon.html

Basically going full on watercooling, custom fit alunimum sheet to cover up the unused holes in my case, removing the bottom drive bay to fit 2 pumps, 1/2ID tubing etc


----------



## kinubic

Those are some sexy sleeving jobs hahah i might have to go ahead and purchase some sleeve kits from furryletters for the black and red from mdpc lol ughh


----------



## maximus20895

why would you get one from one seller and another from another seller?


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maximus20895* 
why would you get one from one seller and another from another seller?

shipping from mdpc-x is crazy. murdermod has packaged deals =P


----------



## maximus20895

If i had to do it over again I may get mdpc, but not sure. One thing I would absolutly get is mdpc heat shrink. The heat shrink I got was 2:1 and mdpc is 4:1 which I really like as well as it has a small sidewall.

I also would shrink the heat shrink before I plug the pin into the connector. This was problematic when I didn't do this.


----------



## KamuiRSX

I like the job that you guys are doing and was thinking about doing a few of my own cables but I'm curious as to if anyone has used Fuzzyletter's Clean Cut or his other Techflex stuff..specifically this one

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Doesn't matter what color but is it better than say the OK Gear cable sleeving kits?


----------



## maximus20895

I got clean cut from her and it's good stuff.


----------



## kinubic

hmm how much sleeving would i need if i wer to sleeve a corsair hx750? planning to buy some 2 sets of small red from MDPC-x and some black from that ebay dude.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kinubic* 
hmm how much sleeving would i need if i wer to sleeve a corsair hx750? planning to buy some 2 sets of small red from MDPC-x and some black from that ebay dude.

I don't know how many cables there are with that psu but I saw another member (kevingreenbmx) used 200ft of sleeving for his Corsair HX1000W psu. Hope that is somewhat helpful.


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kinubic* 
hmm how much sleeving would i need if i wer to sleeve a corsair hx750? planning to buy some 2 sets of small red from MDPC-x and some black from that ebay dude.

measure the cables









I ordered 40 meters for my PSU, 20meters small black and 20 meters small red


----------



## jacobroufa

Can't wait to single-sleeve a PSU. Getting a Seasonic X-650 Gold with my tax return, but I think I'll practice on my Shuttle's crap PSU or my old Ultra 650W...









Updates as I get 'em. Prolly another 2-3 weeks if I know how reliably slow my gov't is...


----------



## SpykeZ

turbotax e-file dude









Got my tax returns back within a week


----------



## jacobroufa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
turbotax e-file dude









Got my tax returns back within a week

I e-filed on H&R Block's website. No bank account though, so have to get a check mailed to me.







Hence the lengthy time between me saying this and actually sleeving a PSU.

Now watch as my return check(s) magically appear in the mail today. I wish. :swearing:


----------



## SpykeZ

ya I didn't use my bank account either







TurboTax uses those debit cards now that most companies use for rebates


----------



## GeforceGTS

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kinubic* 
hmm how much sleeving would i need if i wer to sleeve a corsair hx750? planning to buy some 2 sets of small red from MDPC-x and some black from that ebay dude.

For just the 24 pin, two PCI-E and the 8 pin I ordered 30 metres of sleeving and 7 metres of heatshrink, had a little left over but not much.


----------



## sdla4ever

hey guys got my mdpc sleeving today, just wondering if you guys could suggest a good heatgun that i can pick up from a local store!


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sdla4ever* 
hey guys got my mdpc sleeving today, just wondering if you guys could suggest a good heatgun that i can pick up from a local store!

i use my sister's $250 hair dryer =O
i guess still being in high school has some advantages


----------



## sdla4ever

Quote:


Originally Posted by *da tick 07* 
i use my sister's $250 hair dryer =O
i guess still being in high school has some advantages

well i can use one of those but i was thinking it needed to be hotter.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Get a candle







Works like a charm.


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sdla4ever* 
well i can use one of those but i was thinking it needed to be hotter.

nah hair dryers get pretty hot. lighters work well for black sleeving but it can scorch the sleeving which can be seen on other colors


----------



## Massive17

Hey guys I have never done any sleeving before but after going through this thread I am thinking about doing after I refresh some parts on my sig rig. How hard would the sleeving process be for someone like me that has never done anything like this before, how was your first experience? Should I practice on some wires before trying it or should i just go for it?


----------



## sdla4ever

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Massive17* 
Hey guys I have never done any sleeving before but after going through this thread I am thinking about doing after I refresh some parts on my sig rig. How hard would the sleeving process be for someone like me that has never done anything like this before, how was your first experience? Should I practice on some wires before trying it or should i just go for it?

im going at it my first time on my HX650. I threw my spare HX520 in the sig rig so i could take time at doing the sleeving.

MDPC-X sleeving seems to be the best and they sell whole kits and such


----------



## tK FuRY

I use a Makita heat gun


----------



## sdla4ever

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tK FuRY* 
I use a Makita heat gun









what do you use to get the pins out? cuz im trying the staple trick and that is not working at all...


----------



## tK FuRY

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sdla4ever* 
what do you use to get the pins out? cuz im trying the staple trick and that is not working at all...










on the 24s? I use an ATX pin removing tool that I made out of 3 pieces of spare sheet metal.

http://www.anartik.com/atx20pinand2.html


----------



## mav2000

pretty simple...use sets two sets of two staples, one for each side..push in where the clips are, then push the wire up and then push the clips in again...try and get a very small flat head screwdriver which u can then use to push the pin out. Pushing the pin out will make sure u dont break anything, pulling on the wire can break the molex pin off the wire...

make sure to use TWO sets of Two staples each, one for each side...that is the key.


----------



## sdla4ever

got a pin out finally now onto trying the damn sata connectors on the HX650


----------



## Massive17

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sdla4ever* 
im going at it my first time on my HX650. I threw my spare HX520 in the sig rig so i could take time at doing the sleeving.

MDPC-X sleeving seems to be the best and they sell whole kits and such

Thanks for the tip, I been watching videos on youtube on how to do it


----------



## kinubic

Hey sdla4ever how long did it take to get ur order? im planning to get order too
wondering if this should be enough for my psu getting an HX750/850 soon

1 x this

2 x this

2xthis


1xthis

1xthis

extra shutff

still debating if i should buy all from mdpc-x or get this LOL


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kinubic* 
Hey sdla4ever how long did it take to get ur order? im planning to get order too
wondering if this should be enough for my psu getting an HX750/850 soon

1 x this
2 x this
2xthis
1xthis
1xthis
extra shutff

still debating if i should buy all from mdpc-x or get this LOL

looks good! i would go with mdpc if you want it to look nice. it takes almost 2 weeks to ship to connecticut. btw it takes A LONG time to sleeve your psu


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kinubic* 
Hey sdla4ever how long did it take to get ur order? im planning to get order too
wondering if this should be enough for my psu getting an HX750/850 soon

1 x this

2 x this

2xthis


1xthis

1xthis

extra shutff

still debating if i should buy all from mdpc-x or get this LOL

lol I can tell just by those poor quality pictures that the braiding is piss poor on those. MDPC-X is extremely tightly woven so you can bend it and not get colors bleeding through.


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
lol I can tell just by those poor quality pictures that the braiding is piss poor on those. MDPC-X is extremely tightly woven so you can bend it and not get colors bleeding through.

it is still best if you wrap the wires with electrical tape similar to the color that your using


----------



## kinubic

its set then il be making this order by next week, i have the patience for this hahah cant wait for my drawn picture that comes with my order lol!! dun dun dun.!!


----------



## tK FuRY

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
lol I can tell just by those poor quality pictures that the braiding is piss poor on those. MDPC-X is extremely tightly woven so you can bend it and not get colors bleeding through.

Here's my example I show to everyone who thinks ANY sleeving will work









To the left is quality standard 1/8th from Frys (I get it for cheap and it's good







), to the right is standard 1/8th from Techflex

Then again no one ever takes into account, monofilament and multifilament when they compare see thru and non-see thru sleeving.


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tK FuRY* 
Here's my example I show to everyone who thinks ANY sleeving will work









To the left is quality standard 1/8th from Frys (I get it for cheap and it's good







), to the right is standard 1/8th from Techflex

Then again no one ever takes into account, monofilament and multifilament when they compare see thru and non-see thru sleeving.










god that techflex looks horrible. i guess it's useful if your going for a certai look.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kinubic* 
its set then il be making this order by next week, i have the patience for this hahah cant wait for my drawn picture that comes with my order *****!! dun dun dun.!!

chya, I ordered my last week


----------



## kinubic

thanks for that tk fury .
id like to see the techflex clean cut and mdpcx comparison sleeving :>


----------



## tK FuRY

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
god that techflex looks horrible. i guess it's useful if your going for a certai look.

chya, I ordered my last week










Yeah, I currently use that on my AD700 mic mod, it shows the black under it







and IMO is quite sexy.










For my PC I use the stuff on the left







.


----------



## nafljhy

i say nylon multifilament!







ok enough from me. good job everyone! i wants to see moar!!!!!


----------



## oliverw92

I'll be going nylon multifilament







Only worry is how little stretches!


----------



## nafljhy

thats why you order a bunch. i ordered 200 ft...


----------



## oliverw92

No i mean, how little it stretches in terms of getting it over wires







Sleeving SATA is impossible with NM right?


----------



## nafljhy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
No i mean, how little it stretches in terms of getting it over wires







Sleeving SATA is impossible with NM right?

its possible. posted an answer for you in quantum.


----------



## oliverw92

Yeh lets keep the convo in one place


----------



## maximus20895

that techflex must be extremely low quality. I have some clean cut from ebay and it does not do that at all.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
lol I can tell just by those poor quality pictures that the braiding is piss poor on those. MDPC-X is extremely tightly woven so you can bend it and not get colors bleeding through.

I can tell you from experience that it's actually pretty good. I've sleeved quite a few things with the 1/4" braided sleeving from furryletters on ebay and it's pretty good. I've never used any other kind of sleeving but this stuff doesn't show through the colour of the wires underneath at all.


----------



## maximus20895

Yea I got stuff from her too. It's good stuff.


----------



## foldslikepaper

Well, this thread pushed me over the edge. I've admired this look for a while, and finally went ahead and ordered an ultra x3 1000w and 200ft of 1/8 sleeving from furryletters. Wish me luck!


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *foldslikepaper* 
Well, this thread pushed me over the edge. I've admired this look for a while, and finally went ahead and ordered an ultra x3 1000w and 200ft of 1/8 sleeving from furryletters. Wish me luck!

congrats! be prepared to hate staples for the rest of your life though


----------



## oliverw92

Invest in a pin remover - don't get the sunbeam kit though, it is shocking quality. I got mine off ebay, feels really nice and solid.


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Invest in a pin remover - don't get the sunbeam kit though, it is shocking quality. I got mine off ebay, feels really nice and solid.

any place more reliable than ebay? I refuse to use ebay anymore. I really don't want to use these staples lol


----------



## maximus20895

Frozencpu


----------



## tK FuRY

MDPC sells them also, and so do many other online retailers.


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tK FuRY* 
MDPC sells them also, and so do many other online retailers.

ya um, one of those tools was like 20 bucks


----------



## tK FuRY

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
ya um, one of those tools was like 20 bucks


of course it's MDPC, what more could you expect?

There are SEVERAL on google shopping from reputable retailers for under $10 each.


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tK FuRY* 
Here's my example I show to everyone who thinks ANY sleeving will work









To the left is quality standard 1/8th from Frys (I get it for cheap and it's good







), to the right is standard 1/8th from Techflex

Then again no one ever takes into account, monofilament and multifilament when they compare see thru and non-see thru sleeving.










Techflex isnt see thru if you dont spread it over the 'max', at least I got it look like "quality" when sleeved my fan cables. But maybe ur point isnt that, coz my dictionary dont translate monofilament and multifilament for my language, so I dont fully get what u mean


----------



## WarlordOne

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
any place more reliable than ebay? I refuse to use ebay anymore. I really don't want to use these staples lol

I purchase from Furryletters on ebay. The product is techflex cleancut if you want to look for other places to purchase it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tK FuRY* 
Here's my example I show to everyone who thinks ANY sleeving will work









To the left is quality standard 1/8th from Frys (I get it for cheap and it's good







), to the right is standard 1/8th from Techflex

Then again no one ever takes into account, monofilament and multifilament when they compare see thru and non-see thru sleeving.










This is a common misunderstanding. Techflex is a company that manufactures almost all the braided cable sleeving you can buy.

What you're looking at in the picture above is a comparison between Techflex's "Cleancut" product and their standard sleeving. Sold by Fry's but make no mistake, it's techflex clean cut.


----------



## WarlordOne

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
any place more reliable than ebay? I refuse to use ebay anymore. I really don't want to use these staples lol

I purchase from Furryletters on ebay. The product is techflex cleancut if you want to look for other places to purchase it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tK FuRY* 
Here's my example I show to everyone who thinks ANY sleeving will work









To the left is quality standard 1/8th from Frys (I get it for cheap and it's good







), to the right is standard 1/8th from Techflex

Then again no one ever takes into account, monofilament and multifilament when they compare see thru and non-see thru sleeving.










This is a common misunderstanding. Techflex is a company that manufactures almost all the braided cable sleeving you can buy.

What you're looking at in the picture above is a comparison between Techflex's "Cleancut" product and their standard sleeving. Sold by Fry's but make no mistake, it's techflex clean cut.


----------



## MisterAutomatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WarlordOne* 
I purchase from Furryletters on ebay. The product is techflex cleancut if you want to look for other places to purchase it.

This is a common misunderstanding. Techflex is a company that manufactures almost all the braided cable sleeving you can buy.

What you're looking at in the picture above is a comparison between Techflex's "Cleancut" product and their standard sleeving. Sold by Fry's but make no mistake, it's techflex clean cut.

Furryletters is pure dopeness. I talked to him a couple times because he's from the area I live in. He ships SAME DAY, every time I've ever purchased from him. Almost as if he just walks next door and drops his stuff at the PO.


----------



## SpykeZ

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/38...tml?tl=g11c133

this all im going to need to remove all the pins off a psu?


----------



## tK FuRY

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/38...tml?tl=g11c133

this all im going to need to remove all the pins off a psu?


Nope that's only going to work for your 4 pin molex connectors.


----------



## SpykeZ

:|

spykez is unhappy!


----------



## mav2000

Its not as difficult as it sounds to remove pins using staples....I can probably do an 8 pin in under 5 minutes...just remember to get a extremly small flat head screwdriver to push the pins out.


----------



## oliverw92

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/36...and.html#blank


----------



## maximus20895

Yea, he ships from TN which is surprising since no one is from there. I live in Knoxville so I get my stuff from him pretty quick.


----------



## maximus20895

This is one: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/38...tml?tl=g11c133

It won't remove the molex though, but those are pretty easy. I don't think there is one tool that removes everything. This tool removes more things in one than anything else I believe.


----------



## WarlordOne

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mav2000* 
Its not as difficult as it sounds to remove pins using staples....I can probably do an 8 pin in under 5 minutes...just remember to get a extremly small flat head screwdriver to push the pins out.

Better than staples, just two small safety pins heatshrunk together. Got through my whole PC sleeving project no problem and was free.


----------



## maximus20895

I tried that with the ATX but i couldn't get the pins to go far enough to get the ATX pins down..


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MisterAutomatic* 
Furryletters is pure dopeness. I talked to him a couple times because he's from the area I live in. He ships SAME DAY, every time I've ever purchased from him. Almost as if he just walks next door and drops his stuff at the PO.

He's pretty good... Only took a week for my sleeving to get all the way to NZ with standard post. Was impressed by that.


----------



## foldslikepaper

I haven't ordered any sort of pin remover tool. Seems like a waste for something i don't plan on doing on a regular basis. The heatshrink/safety pin idea looks pretty solid.


----------



## maximus20895

it's kinda of a ***** to do it without them and most people here will sleeve more than one computer


----------



## WarlordOne

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maximus20895* 
it's kinda of a ***** to do it without them and most people here will sleeve more than one computer

I keep my safety pin tool with my cable sleeving kit, it works great and hasn't broken yet. A lot of those $10-20 tools don't even make it through 1 cable sleeving job let alone multiple jobs. I read a lot of reviews when I was looking to buy a pin removal tool and breakage is a serious issue.

Having a tool to remove the pins is necessary to do the job. Buying a $20 tool doesn't make the sleeving job easier or the results better, it just costs more.


----------



## maximus20895

Yea, I have the tool you made at my desk right now as well. I haven't tried the tools that you buy so I can't comment on those.


----------



## jacobroufa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WarlordOne* 
I keep my safety pin tool with my cable sleeving kit, it works great and hasn't broken yet. A lot of those $10-20 tools don't even make it through 1 cable sleeving job let alone multiple jobs. I read a lot of reviews when I was looking to buy a pin removal tool and breakage is a serious issue.

Having a tool to remove the pins is necessary to do the job. Buying a $20 tool doesn't make the sleeving job easier or the results better, it just costs more.

Can I buy one from you? LOL or can you make a quickie How-To? What size safety pins are you using? Also, I've noticed, even with using small sewing needles I can't fit two of them into the one spot to get a pin out. I'm also not having luck with the staple method.


----------



## maximus20895

With the staple method I used plier to push down on the staple to get it to knock the pin clip down.


----------



## da tick 07

i take a needle nose pliers w/ safety pin and go one side at a time. took me about 5 minutes for the 24 pin connector


----------



## maximus20895

^yea me too. Some of the staples break so it's kind of annoying though..


----------



## Dr.Zyklon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WarlordOne* 

This is a common misunderstanding. Techflex is a company that manufactures almost all the braided cable sleeving you can buy.

What you're looking at in the picture above is a comparison between Techflex's "Cleancut" product and their standard sleeving. Sold by Fry's but make no mistake, it's techflex clean cut.

so..they are actually both the same type sleeving by the same company, its just that one in the right is stretched over its "max"?


----------



## maximus20895

no, one has three threads in one and the other has 1 so it's less opaque


----------



## Dr.Zyklon

okk, so the left one (better one) is the "clean cut" and the other is regular run of the mill sleeve


----------



## maximus20895

if you want good sleeving get some from furryletters. It is good stuff.


----------



## Dr.Zyklon

just got 25ft of some red from furryletters, even if its not the best, the price makes it irresistible. now i gotta find some heat shrink tubing, ebay is turning few results on this though.


----------



## tK FuRY

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dr.Zyklon* 
just got 25ft of some red from furryletters, even if its not the best, the price makes it irresistible. now i gotta find some heat shrink tubing, ebay is turning few results on this though.

furryletters has heatshrink too


----------



## Dr.Zyklon

ohh i just noticed. well i dont think i need more than like 5ft, i think i need some 1/4 or maybe the 1/2 one since i gotta go over a plug but ill see if any place sells them by the foot or maybe ill just end up using electrical tape









saved


----------



## maximus20895

te be honest, I would get heatshrink from mdpc. I like how it's 4:1 ratio so it makes it really versatile and the sidewall are very thin on it.


----------



## foldslikepaper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dr.Zyklon* 
ohh i just noticed. well i dont think i need more than like 5ft, i think i need some 1/4 or maybe the 1/2 one since i gotta go over a plug but ill see if any place sells them by the foot or maybe ill just end up using electrical tape









saved









Just so you know, electrical tape will look good for a month or two and then begin to lose it's "stickiness". Not that I've ever used it in place of heatshrink.


----------



## Dr.Zyklon

yup went ahead and got me some red from frozencpu, i hope my sister has a hair dryer


----------



## sdla4ever

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dr.Zyklon* 
yup went ahead and got me some red from frozencpu, i hope my sister has a hair dryer

or a lighter if u are very careful lol

also another thought for the OP, why not add links to places where you can buy supplies and a guide to sleeving and most important in my mind a chart to how the colors go back in a 24-pin connector lol


----------



## imh073p

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sdla4ever* 
or a lighter if u are very careful lol

Yes i agree, works great in a pinch. Heat gun is preferable though.


----------



## sdla4ever

well my first sleeve job ever! finally got the 24 pin done looks OK imo, hopefully the 8 pin will come out more even


----------



## SimpleTech

Is the sleeving Sidewindercomputers has similar to the eBay listing everyone keeps mentioning?

Cause I use some of that for my fans and it is so easy to work with. Love the the braid sleeving and it doesn't show anything through it.


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dr.Zyklon* 
ohh i just noticed. well i dont think i need more than like 5ft, i think i need some 1/4 or maybe the 1/2 one since i gotta go over a plug but ill see if any place sells them by the foot or maybe ill just end up using electrical tape









saved









just so you know. you suppose to remove the "plug" before sleeving

Quote:


Originally Posted by *foldslikepaper* 
Just so you know, electrical tape will look good for a month or two and then begin to lose it's "stickiness". Not that I've ever used it in place of heatshrink.









electrical tape is good to use under the wire because even mdpc-x sleeving can show wire with tight bends


----------



## seven9st surfer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sdla4ever* 
well my first sleeve job ever! finally got the 24 pin done looks OK imo, hopefully the 8 pin will come out more even


























not too bad for your first time. I kinda like the blue in there with the black.

One thing I'd suggest tho, is to pre-measure and cut your heatshrink. Preferably a little shorter, too. I used about an inch, but that's just me. You end up using about half the heatshrink, plus it looks a lot cleaner when there's a nice straight line across the tops. I don't have a good pic of my 24-pin, but here's one of my HDD SATA cables. I know it's PET sleeving and not CleanCut, so you can see a bit of color through, but you get the idea:










Keep up the good work, and make sure you keep us updated with pics!


----------



## sdla4ever

has anyone ever ran into a problem with the 4 pin connectors not letting go of the cable? im doing everything the same as the 24 pin and its not working. also to add to my joy the 6 pin connector like fell apart the wires came out the crimping and everything but idk why... gahhh first time doing things always suck


----------



## maximus20895

you will get better. I should make a video of the 24 pin removal.


----------



## sdla4ever

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maximus20895* 
you will get better. I should make a video of the 24 pin removal.

24 pin was easy im dying on these 4 pin ones


----------



## nafljhy

that looks great slda!!! especially since it's your first try!

i'm sure the 4pins will come out great too.


----------



## sdla4ever

can you buy the black holders anywhere? like the actual plug shape? My dumb self used channel locks to try to hold the 4 pin while i pulled didnt realize it crimped the plastic down more. So i was wondering if i could buy some and then miraculously get this one off and use the new one? or am i destined to have to sleeve over all 4 wires at once?


----------



## nafljhy

which cable is this specifically?


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nafljhy* 
which cable is this specifically?

the 4 pin....believe it's the 4 pin that goes into the motherboard.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sdla4ever* 
can you buy the black holders anywhere? like the actual plug shape? My dumb self used channel locks to try to hold the 4 pin while i pulled didnt realize it crimped the plastic down more. So i was wondering if i could buy some and then miraculously get this one off and use the new one? or am i destined to have to sleeve over all 4 wires at once?

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g11/...ors-Page1.html

the one you need specifically would be this I think..

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17...l?tl=g11c28s90


----------



## nafljhy

yeap. if its that you can get those at either frozen or ppcs.


----------



## sdla4ever

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nafljhy* 
yeap. if its that you can get those at either frozen or ppcs.

thanks guys to bad shipping is like 6$ for them hahaha so i might wait a little till i have enough to buy the other parts i need from there also

EDIT: anyone got a good safe idea of cutting the atx pins out without breaking them lol


----------



## maximus20895

What do you mean cutting the pins out?


----------



## foldslikepaper

cutting? what? i want pics.


----------



## shnur

I've been looking through this thread and I have a couple questions:

Is there a Canada shipping store? Maybe put them in the first post (all of them, US/AUS/UK/EU/CAN/WorldWide) and some specs of stuff you need to get the sleeving done properly...

I'd really like to do some sleeving on my PSU and fan wires... but I live in Canada, any store that would ship to me?


----------



## foldslikepaper

I ordered from furry letters on ebay....pretty sure they ship anywhere.(someone said they ordered from new zealand?) Just got my sleeving today, great high quality stuff.


----------



## MijnWraak

Updated the OP a bit, and will be updating it with more information and links throughout the next week or so. Please PM any suggestions for me to add to the original post of this thread (or any OOPSes you spot), will be very appreciated!


----------



## tK FuRY

Ordered a bulk spool of multifilament nylon, should arrive in 2-3 days. Time to have fun making these audio cables for people







.

and I got a spool of this today too


















EDIT: Looks like something of mine is actually being used and credited lol. < well that's a first.


----------



## sdla4ever

Quote:


Originally Posted by *foldslikepaper* 
cutting? what? i want pics.

i mean that i crimped the 4 pins on accident being dumb using a pair of channel locks so im buying new connectors so the pins arent stuck in there permanent. So im literally cutting the plastic off the connectors to get the pins out sine i crimped the walls so much they wont come out normally.

First time around i learn alot lol

and at OP it looks good so far, i hope im not being a pain with my suggestion about the thread..


----------



## Raiden911

Here's some of mine using Techflex Cleancut from Furryletters:




























The heatshrink from furryletters arent good enough ratio wise. I think "better" ones should be used.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

That's better than I thought it'd be. Nice.


----------



## maximus20895

That's what I thought. I liked his sleeving, but I wish I got better ratio heatshrink.


----------



## seven9st surfer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maximus20895*


That's what I thought. I liked his sleeving, but I wish I got better ratio heatshrink.


exactly. I sleeved mine with furryletters' stuff and it was great. but the heat-shrink was only 2:1 i think. anyone know of a good place to buy 4:1?


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seven9st surfer*


exactly. I sleeved mine with furryletters' stuff and it was great. but the heat-shrink was only 2:1 i think. anyone know of a good place to buy 4:1?


See OP









(MDPC-X)


----------



## seven9st surfer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


See OP









(MDPC-X)


lol, you're right. I meant to say in that post that I know MDPC has it, but was hoping to find someplace in the states, where shipping wouldn't be quite that much.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seven9st surfer*


lol, you're right. I meant to say in that post that I know MDPC has it, but was hoping to find someplace in the states, where shipping wouldn't be quite that much.


ah, gotcha. Sites like McMaster-Carr have a very wide range of products, and are usually very reasonable in price. Just go to the Heatshrink section and look for what's good for you depending on your budget. The higher the shrink ratio, the more expensive it will be. Adhesive lining is also a plus but is more expensive. http://www.mcmaster.com/#heat-shrink-tubing/=5y3x2x

edit: THIS STUFF is adhesive lined, 4:1 shrink ratio. 4' for $13 seems a bit steep though









or THIS, 3:1 ratio 1/4" $8.40 per 4'.


----------



## maximus20895

What is so great about adhesive lining.

Yes Furry's stuff is 2:1 I would like 4:1.


----------



## nafljhy

this site has decent pricing but i've never ordered from here before:

http://www.buyheatshrink.com/heatshr...adhesive.htm#B

i was just looking for US stores that might have them..


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I get this stuff here... -->http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

It's a 3:1 ratio and he ships worldwide too. Really good seller.


----------



## flamingoyster

is it possible to sleeve case wires like the pwr_switch reset_switch hdd led etc?


----------



## Hickeydog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *flamingoyster* 
is it possible to sleeve case wires like the pwr_switch reset_switch hdd led etc?

Absolutely.


----------



## flamingoyster

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hickeydog* 
Absolutely.

:O but they're so small! is it more difficult due to the size?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *flamingoyster* 
:O but they're so small! is it more difficult due to the size?

Why would they be difficult? Nothing more than a few fan sized gauge wiring.


----------



## flamingoyster

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Why would they be difficult? Nothing more than a few fan sized gauge wiring.

I'm specifically thinking of the process of removing the pin from the other thingy (what's it called? header? lol). wouldn't you need a very small tool to do this? I dunno...never done this, as I'm sure you've realized


----------



## maximus20895

Most of the time you can fit the sleeving and heatshrink over the connector, but if not you can use a small screw driver. It's pretty simple actually.


----------



## tK FuRY

Quote:


Originally Posted by *flamingoyster* 
I'm specifically thinking of the process of removing the pin from the other thingy (what's it called? header? lol). wouldn't you need a very small tool to do this? I dunno...never done this, as I'm sure you've realized










Just a flat head screw driver, headers/3 pin fan connectors, etc that you slide onto the mobo headers are the easiest!

Just find the side with the locks/wing flaps/whatever term you would like to use, use your flat head and push down(with main emphasis on the backside, the end closest to to the wires themselves) and then pull the wire out. Next use a knife or something thin to raise the flaps/wings/locks back up.

Tada!


----------



## MijnWraak

Here are some pics to help you as well

































credit: dangals for 1st and 3rd, Moogle for 2nd picture.


----------



## flamingoyster

Oh, nice those pics help a ton







thank you.


----------



## foldslikepaper

first try at monosleeving....just the short molex line from the x3 i got today:










It's not perfect, but it's a start.


----------



## maximus20895

That's not bad at all. All the heatshrink is even and everything.


----------



## sdla4ever

ok lol anyone who has 6 pin connectors that have the extra 7 and 8 pin connector to the side have you been able to sleev this cable? both mine now came apart at the atx pin on the ground wire. Ill grab a picture in a second










Here are the rest of the cables sleeved







just waiting on the 4 pin connector from frozenpc


----------



## spiderm0nkey

You don't need to remove the pins for the pwr, reset and hdd leds/switches. 1/8" sleeving does fit over them, as does 1/4" heatshrink. I did it on mine and it looks great


----------



## maximus20895

You used 1/4 heatshrink on those small cables?


----------



## foldslikepaper

quick question: to remove the pins on the non molex connectors like the 24-pin..... i need to slide something down on the left and right sides of the pin simultaneously, correct?


----------



## flamingoyster

another question -- how do you sleeve the cables attached to the psu? like you don't pull the cables out of the psu do you? you just kind of slide it as far down as possible and then heatshrink it?


----------



## seven9st surfer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *foldslikepaper* 
quick question: to remove the pins on the non molex connectors like the 24-pin..... i need to slide something down on the left and right sides of the pin simultaneously, correct?

that's the easiest way, yes. 2 staples, each with 1 leg bent straight (so 2 "L"s) have given me pretty good results. just slide the long leg down either side, push up a little on the wire from behind (the opposite direction it comes out), and you should feel the staples drop in a hair farther. then, the wire should pull right out. hope that helps

Quote:


Originally Posted by *flamingoyster* 
another question -- how do you sleeve the cables attached to the psu? like you don't pull the cables out of the psu do you? you just kind of slide it as far down as possible and then heatshrink it?

you can either sleeve as far as you can, or some people take apart their PSU to get all the way down the wire. that way, when you reinstall the cover, the wires looked completely sleeved. Note that taking apart your PSU will void the warranty, though


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maximus20895* 
You used 1/4 heatshrink on those small cables?

Yep.


----------



## sdla4ever

Quote:


Originally Posted by *seven9st surfer* 
that's the easiest way, yes. 2 staples, each with 1 leg bent straight (so 2 "L"s) have given me pretty good results. just slide the long leg down either side, push up a little on the wire from behind (the opposite direction it comes out), and you should feel the staples drop in a hair farther. then, the wire should pull right out. hope that helps

you can either sleeve as far as you can, or some people take apart their PSU to get all the way down the wire. that way, when you reinstall the cover, the wires looked completely sleeved. Note that taking apart your PSU will void the warranty, though

Ive read any sleeving on any PSU voids the warranty. this is wrong?


----------



## seven9st surfer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sdla4ever*


Ive read any sleeving on any PSU voids the warranty. this is wrong?


Not 100% sure. I've read that companies like corsair let you sleeve and still stay in warranty. Of course, this is just from what other people have posted. I'd call customer service of whatever company makes your psu and check with them first


----------



## Kaze105

Edit: Found a different thread regarding length of sleeve required. Will buy 200ft of sleeving.


----------



## tK FuRY

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kaze105*


Edit: Found a different thread regarding length of sleeve required. Will buy 200ft of sleeving.


Depending on the amount of connectors and lengths.

Average amount I use per PSU for my local customers is between 250-400ft doing mono/individuals.


----------



## maximus20895

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sdla4ever*


Ive read any sleeving on any PSU voids the warranty. this is wrong?


You have corsair, and the same PSU as me. You are fine. Sleeve away.


----------



## nafljhy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sdla4ever*


Ive read any sleeving on any PSU voids the warranty. this is wrong?


i think it depends.

ande about the 7&8 pins for.. i just left them alone.. way too short to do it unless you use just heatshrink... if you make it longer.. you could do it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seven9st surfer*


Not 100% sure. I've read that companies like corsair let you sleeve and still stay in warranty. Of course, this is just from what other people have posted. I'd call customer service of whatever company makes your psu and check with them first


like what seven said.. corsair will let you sleeve it BUT you can't take the PSU apart.. like... say... what i've done.


----------



## flamingoyster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seven9st surfer*


you can either sleeve as far as you can, or some people take apart their PSU to get all the way down the wire. that way, when you reinstall the cover, the wires looked completely sleeved. Note that taking apart your PSU will void the warranty, though


thanks, that helps -- yeah, I don't see any real need to disassemble it just to move the heatshrink another inch or 2 further in...especially if it's gonna void a 3 year warranty


----------



## maximus20895

I just sleeved the last 8 inches since it's already sleeves and Boone will see the rest. Saves time and sleeving.


----------



## sdla4ever

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nafljhy* 
i think it depends.

ande about the 7&8 pins for.. i just left them alone.. way too short to do it unless you use just heatshrink... if you make it longer.. you could do it.

like what seven said.. corsair will let you sleeve it BUT you can't take the PSU apart.. like... say... what i've done.









its not the 7 and 8 pin im worried about it was the long strand connected to them it pulls apart like in the picture without much pressure at all


----------



## nafljhy

aahh... hmm... then it might need to be recrimped...


----------



## SpykeZ

ok im seriously going to break my face through a window, I can't for the life of me get ANY of these stupid pins removed, tried staples, tried these lil precision screwdrivers I got, damn pin won't budge

i got that sleeved NZXT 24 pin extension that I'm trying to resleeve some of them in red


----------



## tK FuRY

It's tough lol


----------



## seven9st surfer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
ok im seriously going to break my face through a window, I can't for the life of me get ANY of these stupid pins removed, tried staples, tried these lil precision screwdrivers I got, damn pin won't budge

i got that sleeved NZXT 24 pin extension that I'm trying to resleeve some of them in red

i had a huge amount of trouble at first, too. Then I figured out a little trick. If you haven't already tried it, make sure you slip in the staples on either side, push them in a bit, then push the wire up (opposite way it pulls out), then the staples should drop down just a little farther. Then, the wire should come out with a little tug. Hope that helps.


----------



## SpykeZ

ya I got the "female pin" part where it looks like a little square but the other side where it's a rod looking pin is giving me a headache

[edit] WOW, this has got to be the most tedious project I've ever done lmao, how far do you guys go up on the cable with the heatshrink? where the pin crimp is at? cause if I do that I can't seem to fit the cable back into the little square hole, ends up being too thick


----------



## seven9st surfer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
ya I got the "female pin" part where it looks like a little square but the other side where it's a rod looking pin is giving me a headache

[edit] WOW, this has got to be the most tedious project I've ever done lmao, how far do you guys go up on the cable with the heatshrink? where the pin crimp is at? cause if I do that I can't seem to fit the cable back into the little square hole, ends up being too thick

not sure exactly what you mean by square vs rod. any chance you could post some pics of what you're talking about?

as for how far up, I just pre-cut all my heatshrink to about 1/2". I place the sleeving itself about 1/2 way down the solid part of the pin, then line up the edge of the heatshrink with the edge of the pin (end that goes into the connector). That way, the heatshrink has about half the bare pin to tighten around, and the rest is on the sleeving.


----------



## SpykeZ

ya i can't do that with this MDPC stuff, it's triple braided so it's quite thick and won't fit back in the hole


----------



## tK FuRY

Quick question guys, If I were to start selling 1/8 / 1/4" multifilament sleeving (almost cloth feel, and very tightly woven), would anyone buy it?

I would be charging $.25-$.40 per foot depending on lengths. I'm not trying to low ball any other sellers, I just have a giant spool I need to size down.

I might need to get rid of some of my clean cut also


----------



## foldslikepaper

well, a couple hours later an my 20 pin is like half sleeved. Got the hang of the staples though. I do wish the clean cut was a bit less shiny, but for the price i can't complain too much.


----------



## SpykeZ

To answer questions earlier, the murdermod/MDPC-X stuff is triple braided (3 piece per strand)


----------



## maximus20895

i'm going to make quadruple braided!


----------



## shnur

Just bought my first sleeving kit! Got the one from MDPC-X, looks awesome! Shipping wasn't too bad for just the kit and pin remover... I'll get more colors when I'll get the hang of it! Now need to find a heat gun :S...


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shnur* 
Just bought my first sleeving kit! Got the one from MDPC-X, looks awesome! Shipping wasn't too bad for just the kit and pin remover... I'll get more colors when I'll get the hang of it! Now need to find a heat gun :S...

home depot/lowe's should have one. Might be able to find a used one on craigslist/ebay though.


----------



## dimwit13

OK, you guys can tell me to read this whole thread and find the answer myself, but i have a quick question.
i plan on doing a sleeve job on a older PSU,for practice, to use in a older modded gaming rig.
then i will go all out on mine.
my question-how do you keep track of where ther wires go back?
when you pull out the 24 pin MB wires, how do you know where to put them back in correctly?
is this a dumb question?
is the answer on the videos?-i didnt watch them, yes i know i should have-darn, now you guys are making me feal bad for all the hard work you did putting this thread together and i come along and want to cut to the front of the line.
sorry, i will go back and read all the posts.

btw,how do you keep track of the wires?

-dimwit-


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shnur* 
Just bought my first sleeving kit! Got the one from MDPC-X, looks awesome! Shipping wasn't too bad for just the kit and pin remover... I'll get more colors when I'll get the hang of it! Now need to find a heat gun :S...

do you mind what you paid for shipping?

-dimwit-


----------



## foldslikepaper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dimwit13* 
OK, you guys can tell me to read this whole thread and find the answer myself, but i have a quick question.
i plan on doing a sleeve job on a older PSU,for practice, to use in a older modded gaming rig.
then i will go all out on mine.
my question-how do you keep track of where ther wires go back?
when you pull out the 24 pin MB wires, how do you know where to put them back in correctly?
is this a dumb question?
is the answer on the videos?-i didnt watch them, yes i know i should have-darn, now you guys are making me feal bad for all the hard work you did putting this thread together and i come along and want to cut to the front of the line.
sorry, i will go back and read all the posts.

btw,how do you keep track of the wires?

-dimwit-

Hey man, I'm in the process of sleeving my 24 pin as we speak. I'm just doing one wire at a time. That way i can't get mixed up.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

This is Techflex/JT&T stuff form Frys or ebay, triple braided. Im willing to bet that MDPCx gets their stuff from Techflex and just resells it for a premium. I know I would if I was them.

Get it here
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-8-B...item53de7a855d


----------



## wcdolphin

is that 1/8th? It looks just like some of the stuff that I have, and I love it!!!


----------



## MijnWraak

forgot to add that to the OP









Most wires that are the same gauge and thickness are interchangable, so it's not too big a deal as long as the right color/size is in the right spot.

also, I'm pretty sure the MDPC-X stuff is family made in Germany. You can see the difference in closeup shots.










They do look offly similar though


----------



## Kaze105

Does anyone know where to get dark blue sleeves? I would love to get MDPC-X Grand Bleu, but thats just a little too expensive for me.


----------



## sdla4ever

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 









forgot to add that to the OP









Most wires that are the same gauge and thickness are interchangable, so it's not too big a deal as long as the right color/size is in the right spot.

also, I'm pretty sure the MDPC-X stuff is family made in Germany. You can see the difference in closeup shots.










They do look offly similar though









this is what helped me the most lol. cause after you sleeve them all i had to pull them out to try to untangle them some! still praying i put them back in right. might just pick up a super cheap board with a 24 pin to test it on before i kill my X58 board haha


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sdla4ever* 
this is what helped me the most lol. cause after you sleeve them all i had to pull them out to try to untangle them some! still praying i put them back in right. might just pick up a super cheap board with a 24 pin to test it on before i kill my X58 board haha

xD I nearly soiled myself when I was testing my 650tx, the fan would barely spin, then stop. I found out I put on the fan grill on upside down so it was rubbing against it







and all else was fine, luckily didnt kill my rig!


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

I stand corrected then, looks extremely similar anyways.


----------



## maximus20895

Take a cable out of the connector and then just label it. Label them 1-24. It's really not that hard...


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
I stand corrected then, looks extremely similar anyways.

Managed to find the post by DualBrain:

"No - made in Germany by family "

which was a response to a question from a guy named downlinx:

"hmm, this sleeving looks alot like Bentley Harris Expando PT Plus which is really good non-fray sleeving. Am i wrong or who makes this murdermod sleeving."

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...62#post3994762
that thread is very useful


----------



## maximus20895

I still think they are basically the same. What is the advantage of MDPC over clean cut..


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maximus20895* 
I still think they are basically the same. What is the advantage of MDPC over clean cut..

8 colors to choose from vs 1 (black) of cleancut
personalized drawing every order
a bit higher quality
better heatshrink


----------



## maximus20895

I said sleeving so heatshrink is out and I think cleancut has more colors, but i'm not sure.

A drawing is not worth the extra $20+...

Higher quality in what way?


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maximus20895* 
I said sleeving so heatshrink is out and I think cleancut has more colors, but i'm not sure.

A drawing is not worth the extra $20+...

Higher quality in what way?

Clean Cut only comes in black.

Higher quality as in less imperfections, tighter weave, less opacity.


----------



## tK FuRY

Alright I might as well jump in and settle this out for you guys.

CC is shiny while MDPC has a matte look to it, MDPC has more colors since it's custom made in Germany.

Higher quality? Maybe.... some say it's a tighter weave, some say it's just overall German construction.

I personally say it's the same as long as YOU the consumer does not screw up the job.

Heatshrink is non adhesive lined 4:1 with medium/thin (I wouldn't call that super thin like they do, until you've seen some "rea" ultra thin).


----------



## shnur

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dimwit13* 
do you mind what you paid for shipping?

-dimwit-

Came out to 11,5 euros, so about 18$ I guess, although it's going to be here within 5-7 days... pretty neat, I'll report back when I get the package

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 









forgot to add that to the OP









Most wires that are the same gauge and thickness are interchangable, so it's not too big a deal as long as the right color/size is in the right spot.

also, I'm pretty sure the MDPC-X stuff is family made in Germany. You can see the difference in closeup shots.










They do look offly similar though









+rep on that, I can second the fact you can change the wires as long as you keep the same color, if you see, there's only 1 green cable (to power up the PC...)


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 









forgot to add that to the OP









Most wires that are the same gauge and thickness are interchangable, so it's not too big a deal as long as the right color/size is in the right spot.

also, I'm pretty sure the MDPC-X stuff is family made in Germany. You can see the difference in closeup shots.










They do look offly similar though









u d man-much thanks.

-dimwit-


----------



## SpykeZ

I just do my wires 1 by one, sleeve it, pop it back in, pull next one out, sleeve it continue


----------



## sdla4ever

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
I just do my wires 1 by one, sleeve it, pop it back in, pull next one out, sleeve it continue

some can some cant do it this way. My wires cam wrapped around each other or had a smallier wire on the same line but had a wire looped through it. So i needed to take 5 out at a time to be able to sleeve some of them


----------



## The viking

Since i bought alot more than the usual murdermod pack, i might as well try sleeving an extension before i go ahead and sleeve the HX1000W:




































I think i got addicted







Sleeved my headsets, the Sennheiser HD 555 + PC 350


















(the pc350 pictures will be uploaded later when i find the cable for the camera xD


----------



## imh073p

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The viking* 
Since i bought alot more than the usual murdermod pack, i might as well try sleeving an extension before i go ahead and sleeve the HX1000W:


That extention turned out nice.


----------



## maximus20895

Yea, no kidding. You did a really good job on that. The heathshrink is even and everything. Nice work


----------



## Seufari

Hey guys... I was wondering what sleeving size and type I should get for my water tubing. I want the colored tubing to show through a little bit.

Here is the amount of color I want showing through...

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ubing-pix.html

Should I go for PET or Clean Cut from FurryLetters?


----------



## tK FuRY

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Seufari* 
Hey guys... I was wondering what sleeving size and type I should get for my water tubing. I want the colored tubing to show through a little bit.

Here is the amount of color I want showing through...

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ubing-pix.html

Should I go for PET or Clean Cut from FurryLetters?


Regular PET.

The size should be exactly the same size as the OD of your tubing, maybe slightly smaller so it will have to expand and show through.


----------



## MijnWraak

Just finished bi-sleeving (2 cables per sleeve) a 2 molex to 6-pin adapter. WAY easier than tackling the 24-pin, my fingers don't even hurt







I'll snap some pictures tomorrow, should be perfect weather to get some decent pics too.


----------



## MijnWraak

As promised


































Not perfect, but far better than the ugly brown+yellow


----------



## NYM

Some picts on my hx750




































used the screwdriver method to remove each pins though


----------



## jacobroufa

Nice job NYM! ^_^

My PSU is out for delivery today! Anyone know if I can sleeve the Seasonic X-650 Gold (it is fully modular, no cables permanently connected) without voiding my warranty?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NYM* 
Some picts on my hx750









used the screwdriver method to remove each pins though









Could you explain the screwdriver method? I've not heard of that one before.


----------



## NYM

Screwdriver method.

1. You will need a 1mm flat head screwdriver









2. Put in the head of the screwdriver this way, into one side of the pin head.









3. Now, it will be like this and turn the screwdriver 180 degree(any direction).









do it for the other side,









4. Done! it can be taken out EASILY.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NYM*


Screwdriver method.

1. You will need a 1mm flat head screwdriver
*snip*

2. Put in the head of the screwdriver this way, into one side of the pin head.
*snip*

3. Now, it will be like this and turn the screwdriver 180 degree(any direction).
*snip*

do it for the other side,
*snip*

4. Done! it can be taken out EASILY.
*snip*


Does that mangle the tabs on the pins in any way? If not, looks like I've just found a method of pin removal that will work for me


----------



## oliverw92

THat looks like it pushes the tabs in. Personally wouldn't do it that way, can weaken the tabs!


----------



## shnur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NYM*


Some picts on my hx750









used the screwdriver method to remove each pins though










Nice job! Pretty sleeving indeed!


----------



## IntelLover

I wouldn't do that. It pushes the pins inward, weakening them.

What do you guys think? Should I get nylon Multiflament or Clean Cut? or I can order a MDPC family pack (600 feet for $150) if someone on here will split the cost with me.


----------



## oliverw92

NM is much more cost effective and is even more non-seethrough than MDPC.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jacobroufa*


Nice job NYM! ^_^

My PSU is out for delivery today! Anyone know if I can sleeve the Seasonic X-650 Gold (it is fully modular, no cables permanently connected) without voiding my warranty?


Afaik you won't void the warranty unless you open the actual PSU, which you won't have to.


----------



## IntelLover

Does anyone have a side to side picture comparing Clean Cut and MDPC Sleeving? Thanks


----------



## sdla4ever

Got my replacement cables in! they are 6 pins not that crap 8 pins i had! So i am back in business!


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IntelLover* 
Does anyone have a side to side picture comparing Clean Cut and MDPC Sleeving? Thanks

Found one! (A bit blurry though







) ... actually this is a terrible picture haha, you can't tell anything from it. But it's the only one I have found.

"[Top]: MDPC
[Middle]:NZXT
[Bottom]:CleanCut Sleeving"


----------



## sdla4ever

another tip to the noobs like me! before attempting to push the staples or whatevr in push the cable forward! ive noticed doing this makes it so much easier to hit those pinse and pop it out!

finished the 6 pins


----------



## nafljhy

doing great slda!


----------



## AmBiGuOuS

For those who purchase MDPC-X Sleeves and live in California, How long did it take you to receive your sleeves from Nils once he sent you an e-mail confirming that your package's been shipped??? It's been 8 days now and still nothing. Nils did mention Customs been slow lately. =(


----------



## oliverw92

That sounds normal tbh.


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AmBiGuOuS* 
For those who purchase MDPC-X Sleeves and live in California, How long did it take you to receive your sleeves from Nils once he sent you an e-mail confirming that your package's been shipped??? It's been 8 days now and still nothing. Nils did mention Customs been slow lately. =(

Ya if you ordered before march customs have been a bunch of ahem lately. Took me about a week and a half to get mine. Did you ask for a tracking number? He actually has them but dunno if he hands em out with the orders, I didn't get one with mine but asked and he sent me one


----------



## WarlordOne

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IntelLover* 
Does anyone have a side to side picture comparing Clean Cut and MDPC Sleeving? Thanks

blue is murdermod black is techflex cleancut:









For murdermod (MDPC-X):
$10.38USD for 32feet or *$0.32USD per foot* for black or grey
$15.27USD for 32feet or *$0.47USD per foot* for color
*Shipping to US is $15.00USD
minimum order of 25,00€ ($36.37USD)
*
For techflex "flexo" brand clean cut (ordered from ebay vendor furryletters):
$5.00USD for 25feet or *$0.20USD per foot*
*Shipping to the US is $2.00USD
no minimum order.*

Benefit of murdermod: Availability of colors, smaller diameter sleeving is better suited for individual cables so a sleeved 24pin won't look as bulky.

Benefit of cleancut: Cheap, high availability, larger diameter sleeving can fit over multiple wires without showing color or fans cables without getting bulky.

The pricing quote was from 9/09 so it may have changed since then...


----------



## maximus20895

They are pretty much the same thing. You won't be able to see the wires on either on them. The only thing I would get from MDPC is the heat shrink


----------



## Dualbrain

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WarlordOne* 
For murdermod (MDPC-X):
$10.38USD for 32feet or *$0.32USD per foot* for black or grey
$15.27USD for 32feet or *$0.47USD per foot* for color
*Shipping to US is $15.00USD
minimum order of 25,00€ ($36.37USD)
*
For techflex "flexo" brand clean cut (ordered from ebay vendor furryletters):
$5.00USD for 25feet or *$0.20USD per foot*
*Shipping to the US is $2.00USD
no minimum order.*

Benefit of murdermod: Availability of colors, smaller diameter sleeving is better suited for individual cables so a sleeved 24pin won't look as bulky.

Benefit of cleancut: Cheap, high availability, larger diameter sleeving can fit over multiple wires without showing color or fans cables without getting bulky.

The pricing quote was from 9/09 so it may have changed since then...


Since 2010 all colors are at $0.32 per foot incl. VAT of 19%.
But people from outside Europe pay and see the prices without VAT once they are registered. Then it is *$0.27* per foot, for USA, Australia, Asia etc.

If non-Europe people get a family pack, the per foot price is actually *$0.15*.

As it is Euro currency based price, the stronger dollar will make it cheaper and cheaper. Greece will create problems for the Euro, and maybe Euro will become even cheaper soon.

I hope my math was informative









And after math, I always enjoy arts


----------



## Seufari

I have a question about heatshrink...

I noticed that Furryletters heatshrink has a 2:1 shrink ratio compared to MDPC 4:1...

How does this effect me?


----------



## tK FuRY

2:1 - 1/4 shrinks down to 1/8th

4:1 - 1/4 shrinks down to 1/16th


----------



## IntelLover

Is MDPC sleeving really worth it?


----------



## Seufari

Ive done a bit of research and clean cut refers to the fray resistant nature of the braiding... So perhaps some of Furryletters colored stuff would have the same weave without the fray resistance of the clean cut.

JAT


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Seufari* 
Ive done a bit of research and clean cut refers to the fray resistant nature of the braiding... So perhaps some of Furryletters colored stuff would have the same weave without the fray resistance of the clean cut.

JAT

If the description says "PET" in it, then it's single braid (see-through stuff) and not as high quality as the Clean Cut. The colored braiding from Furryletters is all PET. It may look good, it just depends on what look you're trying to go for.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IntelLover* 
Is MDPC sleeving really worth it?

(in my opinion) if you're looking for colored sleeving, there is no other choice. If you don't mind black and don't need SATA or tube-sleeve then you're better off with Clean Cut.


----------



## oliverw92

PET does not mean single braid... it stands for polyethylene terephthalate which is a type of plastic.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WarlordOne*


blue is murdermod black is techflex cleancut:









For murdermod (MDPC-X): 
$10.38USD for 32feet or *$0.32USD per foot* for black or grey
$15.27USD for 32feet or *$0.47USD per foot* for color
*Shipping to US is $15.00USD 
minimum order of 25,00€ ($36.37USD)
*
For techflex "flexo" brand clean cut (ordered from ebay vendor furryletters): 
$5.00USD for 25feet or *$0.20USD per foot * 
*Shipping to the US is $2.00USD 
no minimum order.*

Benefit of murdermod: Availability of colors, smaller diameter sleeving is better suited for individual cables so a sleeved 24pin won't look as bulky.

Benefit of cleancut: Cheap, high availability, larger diameter sleeving can fit over multiple wires without showing color or fans cables without getting bulky.

The pricing quote was from 9/09 so it may have changed since then...


The minimum price (for outside of US at least, not sure about inside the US) is 15€

I hope to order some green sleeve from mdpc pretty soon... Will look good with the clean cut black that I already have.

Btw welcome to Overclock.net Dualbrain







Nice to see you here.


----------



## WarlordOne

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dualbrain*


Since 2010 all colors are at $0.32 per foot...


Thanks for the correction. I'll be looking to use MDPC-X exclusively on my next build as I think it'll be nice to compare products and play with some color.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Seufari*


I have a question about heatshrink...

I noticed that Furryletters heatshrink has a 2:1 shrink ratio compared to MDPC 4:1...

How does this effect me?


I wouldn't suggest heatshink with a shrink ratio less than 3:1 for individual cable sleeving.

I purchased:
1/4" adhesive lined heat shrink tubing from ebay vendor genuinedealz. This helps to keep the ends from popping out when flexing the sleeving. Maybe 4:1 would work fine without adhesive lining but I haven't had a chance to test and compare it. I can however tell you that cheap 2:1 will allow the sleeving to slide out of the heatshrink if it is handled too much.

To cover and solder splices from lengthening/shortening wires I also purchased.

0.150" polyolefin heatshrink tubing (26 ft.US $3.25) from ebay vendor furryletters

You can also see in my pics that I used the small diameter heatshrink to hide the wire colors on the plug ends:


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


PET does not mean single braid... it stands for polyethylene terephthalate which is a type of plastic.


All products labeled "PET" in FURRYLETTER'S store is single braid.


----------



## oliverw92

Meh n00bs


----------



## maximus20895

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tK FuRY* 
2:1 - 1/4 shrinks down to 1/8th

4:1 - 1/4 shrinks down to 1/16th

uhh what??

I thought if it was 1/8th heatshrink it would shrink down to that.

So if it was 2:1 it would come as 1/4 inch, but if it was 4:1 it would come four times bigger which would be 1/2 inch???


----------



## tK FuRY

When you buy heatshrink, you buy it at "full size before shrunken".


----------



## maximus20895

what does that mean? When you buy 1/8th shrink it's 1/8th when you buy it?

I would like heatshrink that can cover most of the connectors so I would buy 1/4th heat shrink that is 4:1..what will that shrink to?


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jacobroufa* 
*removed*

What...?


----------



## SmasherBasher

Guys lets keep it on topic plz. First and only warning.

Back OT - 1/8 heatshrink that I've used is 1/8 when you get it and then shrinks to below that. It barely goes over a single wire with 1/8 sleeving on it. Here is an example of 1/8 heatshrink over 1/8 sleeving prior to heating. Also as you can see the wires inside the sleeving, that is the Carbon PET from furryletters on Ebay. Good stuff but you can see through it.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher* 
Guys lets keep it on topic plz. First and only warning.

Thought we were on topic? Unless I have missed something.


----------



## sdla4ever

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Thought we were on topic? Unless I have missed something.

u did and dont worry about it lol we are now back OT


----------



## Shane1244

Anyone ever use 3/16" over 1/8"?


----------



## maximus20895

if 1/8 heatshrink can barely fit over the sleeving it would be hard to fit 3/16. Just get 1/8 and make sure it has a 3:1 or 4:1 ratio.


----------



## Shane1244

Sorry, I ment 3/16" sleeving instead of 1/8" sleeving.


----------



## shnur

^ some guy at the beginning of thread did it and actually prefers them to the 1/8"

I'm doing my sleeving right now and there's about 4-5 pins from the 24 ATX cable that just won't come out... :S
I'm using the MDPC Molex pin remover which is the exact precise tool to do that, but it doesn't seem to be working on those 4-5 pins. I also have a OCZ PSU so I am not really doubting their quality... any suggestions ?


----------



## maximus20895

Be patient and keep trying.


----------



## oliverw92

Pull it ridiculously hard.


----------



## ardentx

You knows guys, plenty of people would buy cables from you pre sleeved if you did it.

I'd be willing to pay for say 8 Sleeved SATA cables,


----------



## shnur

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maximus20895* 
Be patient and keep trying.

I've passed about 4 hours yesterday on it with small breaks when my hands got way too sweaty so it was just sliding... got 1 out, 4 to go...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Pull it ridiculously hard.

Tried too, now I have a bruise on two of my fingers, and they hurt a lot...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ardentx* 
You knows guys, plenty of people would buy cables from you pre sleeved if you did it.

I'd be willing to pay for say 8 Sleeved SATA cables,

That would be an idea! We could make a list of people that can do it and where they can ship. I mean, I can surely ship to UK, but the cost is going to be soooo high for some sleeved cables


----------



## maximus20895

Yea, I was thinking about sleeving some for people, but i'm not sure. There are some places where they sell sleeved cables for pretty cheap. I might sell some sleeving at some online store or something..


----------



## Shane1244

I just sent furryletters a PM on eBay. I'm going to be buying this:

-50ft of "1/8 BRAIDED EXPANDABLE SLEEVING "CLEAN 
CUT" 25ft"

-10ft of "1/4 HEAT SHRINK TUBING - ADHESIVE LINED 
polyolefin 25ft"

Im using it to sleeve a few fans, and front panel connectors.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


I just sent furryletters a PM on eBay. I'm going to be buying this:

-50ft of "1/8 BRAIDED EXPANDABLE SLEEVING "CLEAN 
CUT" 25ft"

-10ft of "1/4 HEAT SHRINK TUBING - ADHESIVE LINED 
polyolefin 25ft"

Im using it to sleeve a few fans, and front panel connectors.










awesome. let us know how it goes!


----------



## Shane1244

Will do! I hope he gets back to me today.









It should be interesting ho how much he charges for shipping to Canada, and the custom length of Heat-shrink.


----------



## maximus20895

Te be honest, I would get different heat shrink. Most of his is only 2:1.


----------



## Shane1244

Well, I'm going to try it out.. It should only be like $2 or $3, and the shipping will be "free" because I'm buying the sleeving from him already.


----------



## Seufari

I would like to see the original post updated with recommended size sleeving/heatshrink for 1-wire, 2wire, and multi-wire jobs... I know I saw it in this thread somewhere...


----------



## oliverw92

Would recommend not having 2-1, it won't shrink much.

Â¤ Â§ Â± Â» Â«


----------



## maximus20895

Yea, I used furry's heatshrink and it's not that special. Next time, I'm going to get the clean cut which is what I got and then get some MDPC or similar heatshrink.


----------



## Shane1244

Is there any heat-shrink on ebay that people are liking?

Or, What about buying 1/8th heat-shrink?


----------



## Shane1244

DescriptionUnit priceQtyAmount
1/8" clean-cut, black
Item #$0.1950$9.50
1/4" black heat shrink adhesive lined.
Item #$0.3010$3.00
Subtotal$12.50
Shipping and handling$2.80
Total$15.30 USD


----------



## maximus20895

What are you planning on sleeving?


----------



## Shane1244

Fan Cables, Front Pant Cables, Fan controller cables as well as a pair of headphones.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

There is an ebay user called genuinedealz who sells heatshrink that shrinks at a 3:1 ratio. Adhesive lined also. It's good stuff. Got that in combination with the furryletters sleeving and really quite like it.


----------



## Seufari

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
There is an ebay user called genuinedealz who sells heatshrink that shrinks at a 3:1 ratio. Adhesive lined also. It's good stuff. Got that in combination with the furryletters sleeving and really quite like it.

Thanks for the suggestion...

I have a question for all you master sleevers. What size sleeving would you suggestion for these jobs:

1 wire: 1/8th
2 wire: ?
4 wire: ?


----------



## rmvvwls

1 wire: 1/8th
2 wire: 1/8th
4 wire: dont. Looks ugly.
8 wire: 1/2 or thereabouts. (I used MDPC-X Large)


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Seufari* 
Thanks for the suggestion...

I have a question for all you master sleevers. What size sleeving would you suggestion for these jobs:

1 wire: 1/8th
2 wire: ?
4 wire: ?

I did my 24-pin by groups of 4 wires, and 1/8" Clean Cut worked nicely. the 6-pin adapters were 2 wires per sleeve and worked well with 1/8" as well. Any more than 4 wires and I'd say go to 3/16" or 1/2"


----------



## Seufari

thanks for the responses guys... I had no idea you could fit so much in 1/8" I guess I'll be ordering 25ft of it then...


----------



## oliverw92

4 wires, use SATA sleeving from MDPC.


----------



## Seufari

I bought some stuff from furryletters and apparently ebay didn't calculate shipping correctly. He refunded me $2.40 without me asking or noticing...


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
I did my 24-pin by groups of 4 wires, and 1/8" Clean Cut worked nicely. the 6-pin adapters were 2 wires per sleeve and worked well with 1/8" as well. Any more than 4 wires and I'd say go to 3/16" or 1/2"

Do you have any pictures? I'm still not settled on how I want to sleeve my 24pin. Don't want to sleeve each wire but not sure whether to bi-sleeve or quad-sleeve at this stage.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Do you have any pictures? I'm still not settled on how I want to sleeve my 24pin. Don't want to sleeve each wire but not sure whether to bi-sleeve or quad-sleeve at this stage.

If I were to do it again, I'd get better heatshrink (higher ratio). I think it came out okay for my first sleeving job, I'll try to get some pictures up today.


----------



## spice003

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Seufari* 
I bought some stuff from furryletters and apparently ebay didn't calculate shipping correctly. He refunded me $2.40 without me asking or noticing...

he probably does combined shipping


----------



## jacobroufa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spice003* 
he probably does combined shipping









this


----------



## KoolGuy

So stupid question for a noob. Other then looking kool why sleeve your cables?


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KoolGuy* 
So stupid question for a noob. Other then looking kool why sleeve your cables?

Some say it'll increase airflow, but to be honest I think that's just bull****. It adds bulk for the most part.

I just did it because I love to work with my hands, especially with computers and I couldn't work on my yard in the winter (besides shoveling snow lmao). Wanted something to do. This doesn't cost a lot and is pretty fun and satisfying once you're done and you have something to show for it!









That's just me though, I'm sure others will share their reasons.


----------



## jacobroufa

Some cases don't have much room behind the mobo tray for cables... sleeving them individually allows them to go flatter and hide better behind the tray for cable management. Plus it looks cool... Isn't that reason enough? I know on my next build it'll look the business for sure and I don't even have space to hide *any* cables on this one... So I decided for aesthetic purposes I'd rather look at sleeved wires than colorful ones. Same reason people powdercoat or paint, get led fans instead of black ones even though the led fan plastic is more often than not complete crap (leads to more noise and less airflow), or almost any other computer mod. Why do it? Why not?


----------



## KoolGuy

Can sleeveing the wires prevent noise and alien crosstalk?


----------



## maximus20895

Are you having problems with something specifically?


----------



## Seufari

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spice003* 
he probably does combined shipping









eBay combined shipping... Apparently not enough though...


----------



## imh073p

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jacobroufa* 
Some cases don't have much room behind the mobo tray for cables... sleeving them individually allows them to go flatter and hide better behind the tray for cable management. Plus it looks cool... Isn't that reason enough? I know on my next build it'll look the business for sure and I don't even have space to hide *any* cables on this one... So I decided for aesthetic purposes I'd rather look at sleeved wires than colorful ones. Same reason people powdercoat or paint, get led fans instead of black ones even though the led fan plastic is more often than not complete crap (leads to more noise and less airflow), or almost any other computer mod. Why do it? Why not?

Agreed +1


----------



## Seufari

Is this the only tool I will need to do an entire PSU and fans?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Seufari* 
Is this the only tool I will need to do an entire PSU and fans?

That is only good for molex connectors. You'll need either some staples or a tool like this to get the rest out.


----------



## rmvvwls

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KoolGuy* 
Can sleeveing the wires prevent noise and alien crosstalk?

Nope. Unless your sleeving is metal.

No practical benefits, it's all for the looks. (If you want to make wires flatter, you wouldn't sleeve them, just part them)


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
If I were to do it again, I'd get better heatshrink (higher ratio). I think it came out okay for my first sleeving job, I'll try to get some pictures up today.









Sweet that would be really good


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Sweet that would be really good









oops thanks for reminding me. My damned dog decided to chew my SD card







, so I won't be able to unfortunately. Sometimes next week possibly though. Sorry


----------



## shnur

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
oops thanks for reminding me. My damned dog decided to chew my SD card







, so I won't be able to unfortunately. Sometimes next week possibly though. Sorry









Haha!
That's why I has NO animals in my house... had too much friends calling and saying their cards are burnt (too much fur in the fan...), their screen/mouse/keyboard are not working (cables chewed up...)/


----------



## ardentx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shnur* 

That would be an idea! We could make a list of people that can do it and where they can ship. I mean, I can surely ship to UK, but the cost is going to be soooo high for some sleeved cables









Well if there is anyone in the UK that can sleeve some SATA cables for me with some black sleeving and heat shrink I will pay the price of cables + sleeving + postage and a bit on top. (not too much however)

Like I am deadly serious about that. Also, fans with sleeved wires and stuff as well.


----------



## oliverw92

I can do it.


----------



## ardentx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
I can do it.

PM sent mate.


----------



## MijnWraak

Anyone interested in sleeving, check out Tk's trial for sale thread. Offer's 50/100/200/300 foot kits in black for now.

http://www.overclock.net/cases/68881...ng-kits-d.html


----------



## oliverw92

His sleeving is such a rip off though:

http://cableorganizer.com/nylon-multifilament/

Look how cheap that is, and its the same stuff.


----------



## metro

Has anyone ever seen/heard of/used this stuff?

It seems like a good deal to me, but I could be very wrong.


----------



## oliverw92

Looks like only single weave. Can't be sure though.


----------



## maximus20895

Yea, you can see through that.


----------



## metro

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Looks like only single weave. Can't be sure though.

How can you visually tell the difference? My friend has some he's using in his RC plane that I could go take a close look at.


----------



## Seufari

I bought 25ft of 1/2" Clear Cut from Furryletters. On my 5/8" tubing its a good fit, but no where near opaque. I can see light through the sleeving and tubing quite easily. Depending on the application this might be just what you are looking for.


----------



## oliverw92

metro:










You see on the left, there are 3 'strands' per 'string' that is braided, and on the right there is only one? Thats what i mean by triple braid.


----------



## smartasien

i was looking to buy some of the 1/8'' clean cut and 1/8'' heatshrink from furryletters but i'm worried that the heatshrink will be too tight. I had found furryletters store a while back and asked him whether 1/8'' heatshrink would work and he said no.

So will this actually work for sleeving single wires?


----------



## oliverw92

Don't get furryletters heatshrink, the ratio is only 2:1. You need 3:1, or 4:1. Get MDPC small heatshrink.


----------



## metro

Thanks Oliver. I managed to grab a picture of the stuff. It looks like it's triple braided. If I am correct, is $0.50/m a good deal?


----------



## Shane1244

Yeah, that's a really nice price. Right around $.15/$.16 a foot.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

That's good stuff metro. I use the one from furryletters on eBay made by Techflex, and also used mostly JT&T triple braided from Frys Electronics.


----------



## pcnuttie

triple UV braid ftw!


----------



## ardentx

Just spent Â£115 on Sleeving etc from MDPC, will post pics once I get started.







wish me luck


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ardentx*


Just spent Â£115 on Sleeving etc from MDPC, will post pics once I get started.







wish me luck


Dear lord.. that's a lot of moola.


----------



## shnur

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shane1244* 
Dear lord.. that's a lot of moola.

Yeah... when I've gathered all the stuff togheter it was about 100 euros, I mean, it's not so bad, but with currency rate (1 euro being ~ 1.6 canadian dollar) that threw me off completely...


----------



## tlkamps

Got my shipment of sleeving from MDPC-X today and am starting on it tonight. The black kit with some white accents. Gonna look classy. Wish me luck


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*


Yeah... when I've gathered all the stuff togheter it was about 100 euros, I mean, it's not so bad, but with currency rate (1 euro being ~ 1.6 canadian dollar) that threw me off completely...


:O $194 in my currency. I don't know that I could ever justify spending so much on sleeving lol. At least not while I'm a poor student.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlkamps*


Got my shipment of sleeving from MDPC-X today and am starting on it tonight. The black kit with some white accents. Gonna look classy. Wish me luck










That will be quite hot! Please post some photos when you've finished







Would love to see it.


----------



## tK FuRY

Lol I just realized how often my "CC vs PET" picture gets thrown around ... I demand $0.02 per hotlink







.

JK.


----------



## b0klau

Here's the result of my first time sleeving. Sleeving this 8 pin extension literally took me 2 hours to finish...


----------



## RIFOLWANTS2BUY

Hi guys, I'm new to this forum. I was looking for doing this to my psu. Its an corsair TX850. I don't have a clue to doing any of this stuff. I'm reading up about how to do the sleeving right now. I read that I need 1/8 wrap? 
Can you guys recommend what I buy to use? Like which brand, how much feet, etc.
I was looking at this site
https://www.wirecare.com/index.asp
Theres so many though! I don't know Which to pick! I want black wrapping. But the Gpu and atx 24 connector are going to be sleeved white. All heat-shrink will be black.All the wires need to be wrapped. Which to pick though? And whats reasonable price tool?
I will provide any other information needed to find out what ever else I need. Thanks guys!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *b0klau* 
Here's the result of my first time sleeving. Sleeving this 8 pin extension literally took me 2 hours to finish...


















It looks really good though. Nice to see you took the time to make the heatshrink even too. It's the little details like that which show the difference between a good sleeving job and a great one


----------



## fshizl

i have a thread... here
http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...-practice.html

but here are some quick pictures.
Furry Letters, its a first try and did it to my old power supply.
Total cost was 25 dollars, with sleeving and heatshrink.
Before








After









Some Pics of Case Done


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RIFOLWANTS2BUY*


Hi guys, I'm new to this forum. I was looking for doing this to my psu. Its an corsair TX850. I don't have a clue to doing any of this stuff. I'm reading up about how to do the sleeving right now. I read that I need 1/8 wrap? 
Can you guys recommend what I buy to use? Like which brand, how much feet, etc.
I was looking at this site
https://www.wirecare.com/index.asp
Theres so many though! I don't know Which to pick! I want black wrapping. But the Gpu and atx 24 connector are going to be sleeved white. All heat-shrink will be black.All the wires need to be wrapped. Which to pick though? And whats reasonable price tool?
I will provide any other information needed to find out what ever else I need. Thanks guys!


From that site you need this: https://www.wirecare.com/products.asp?prodline=CCP - techflex cleancut.

If you are looking to do all your PSU, i suggest getting 200ft. Then get 30ft of 4:1 or 3:1 heatshrink.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


i have a thread... here
http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...-practice.html

but here are some quick pictures.
Furry Letters, its a first try and did it to my old power supply.
Total cost was 25 dollars, with sleeving and heatshrink.
Before








After









Some Pics of Case Done


























Nice job! Lol whats the speaker for in the base of your case?


----------



## fshizl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


From that site you need this: https://www.wirecare.com/products.asp?prodline=CCP - techflex cleancut.

If you are looking to do all your PSU, i suggest getting 200ft. Then get 30ft of 4:1 or 3:1 heatshrink.

Nice job! Lol whats the speaker for in the base of your case?


lol the mobo doesnt have a speaker built in, thats the one that makes the beeping when bios boot up lol

thanks for the complements


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Ordered my sleeving from Nils a day or so ago.. Green sleeving as well as black sata sleeving and some heatshrink







Once my holidays start I'll be stuck right into it. Can't wait!


----------



## maximus20895

I just wish I got 3:1 or 4:1 heatshrink. That is the number one thing I am going to change next time :/


----------



## imh073p

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


i have a thread... here
http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...-practice.html











Very nice old school hotness


----------



## MijnWraak

Guys, please try not to quote more than 1 image per post.

edit: thanks


----------



## jacobroufa

You'll probably see these pics elsewhere in the forum. I'll be starting a new thread in the Casemods section with my worklog for my Shuttle K45 as soon as I get it back from powdercoating. Keep your eyes peeled!

Anyway, these are a couple pics of my first sleeving attempt. I talked with TKFury a bunch and I know you all have this fascination with the CleanCut sleeving but after seeing his pics comparing the nylon multifilament with cleancut I decided to go with the multi. I don't regret it but for one thing. It doesn't expand hardly at all. It's absolutely a PITA to get more than one wire in there, or to sleeve over SATA connectors because they have three pins per wire. Aside from that, the results are fantastic. It's beautiful and sleek.

Scythe Kaze Slim 120mm:









Molex and floppy connectors done:









The sleeving, in person, looks a lot more like it does in the picture of the fan than in the picture of the PSU. I had to use flash on the PSU picture otherwise it was too dark and you couldn't see the sleeving details.

As soon as I can master this staple trick, I'll have the rest of the PSU sleeved.


----------



## maximus20895

1. Put one staple BARELY in so it stays in place

2. Put the other staple as far as it can go with your hand

3. Put the first staple that you barely put in as far as it can go with your hand

4. Get needle nose pliers and grab each staple and and push/pull them all the way down until you hear a click. Grab the bottom part so they don't bend as easily

5. If they both click the wire should come straight out

6. Do this 24 times


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maximus20895*


1. Put one staple BARELY in so it stays in place

2. Put the other staple as far as it can go with your hand

3. Put the first staple that you barely put in as far as it can go with your hand

4. Get needle nose pliers and grab each staple and and push/pull them all the way down until you hear a click. Grab the bottom part so they don't bend as easily

5. If they both click the wire should come straight out

6. Do this 24 times










I used one staple and it worked fine, FWIW. Just gotta make sure each side of the bent staple is on the OUTSIDE of the pin where the tabs are.


----------



## maximus20895

Oh, I do it the other way.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maximus20895*


Oh, I do it the other way.










Nothing wrong with that









I really need to finish sleeving my psu though. bah.


----------



## maximus20895

I like sleeving


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Does anyone have a picture of the two different shades of blue MDPC-X has compared to like an ASUS motherboard? I want to try and get the blue as close as possible. 
Would one order of blue and one order of white be enough to sleeve every single wire on a modular psu? Or will i need more?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Does anyone have a picture of the two different shades of blue MDPC-X has compared to like an ASUS motherboard? I want to try and get the blue as close as possible. 
Would one order of blue and one order of white be enough to sleeve every single wire on a modular psu? Or will i need more?


I think you'd probably need a bit more depending on what cables you're going to use.

Kevgreenbmx used 200ft of sleeving for his psu (non modular) which equates to 60.96m. One order of MDPC-X small sleeve is 10m so you will have 20m in total if you get blue and white. I would personally order 40m total just to be on the safe side.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Im not running sli, as of now- 1 hard drive and one cd-rom.
Okay, so 2 white and 2 blue.

what about as far as the shades of blue in comparison to the mobo (or Antec 902 fan LEDs)?

thanks for the response.


----------



## oliverw92

I would say the lighter blue.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Hmm.. alright. You think ill really need 200ft?







thats alot


----------



## oliverw92

Lol doubt it, i would go for about 150ft to stay on the safe side. You should be fine with 100 though.


----------



## maximus20895

Well your 24 pin is about 2 feet long? so you need 48 ft right there. It is amazing how much you need. Then you have your PCI-E cable 2ft long times 8 which is 16. Plus all your other cables like fans, SATA, USB, 1934, pwr, reset, etc.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

So thats about $50 for 2 SATA sleeving and 4 small sleeving. 
thought it was cheap







LOL
Or could I get away with just the 4 quantities of small sleeves?


----------



## AutoItKing

I'm seriously considering pulling a sleeving stunt on my computer soon.
I just have one question; can I use 1/8" sleeving with 1/8" 2:1 heat shrink and get a good result? Thanks!


----------



## maximus20895

It will be alright. I would get 3:1 or 4:1 heatshrink though.


----------



## AutoItKing

I thought so, and I'm sure the 3:1 would make a difference. I mean, it does shrink quite a bit smaller, thereby gripping both the wire and the sleeve tighter.


----------



## eseb1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AutoItKing* 
I thought so, and I'm sure the 3:1 would make a difference. I mean, it does shrink quite a bit smaller, thereby gripping both the wire and the sleeve tighter.

ORLY?








Just messing with you.


----------



## AutoItKing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eseb1* 
ORLY?








Just messing with you.

Yes, RLY.

Nylon multifilament would hide the wires well, wouldn't it? Isn't that what tk fury is selling?


----------



## nafljhy

fury letters is selling clean cut, its different from nylon multifilament. unless furry actually has nylon multifilament.


----------



## oliverw92

You can get Nylon Multifilament really cheap here: http://cableorganizer.com/nylon-multifilament/


----------



## GeforceGTS

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
You can get Nylon Multifilament really cheap here: http://cableorganizer.com/nylon-multifilament/

Any idea where we can get this stuff in the UK?


----------



## oliverw92

http://www.hypex.co.uk/store/product...cat=384&page=1


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Is there any place else I can buy blue and white sleeving other than MDPC-X that is almost as good? I dont want all black, but I also dont want to spend 50$ on this.


----------



## AutoItKing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nafljhy* 
fury letters is selling clean cut, its different from nylon multifilament. unless furry actually has nylon multifilament.

FURRYLETTERS sells both Clean Cut and Nylon Multifilament. I know because I checked.
I was actually referring to this: http://www.overclock.net/other-compo...ng-kits-d.html
tK FuRy is selling kits of sleeving which I think is NM.
Names are kind of important, learn to differentiate between them, please.


----------



## nafljhy

oh tk fury! is he also furryletters?


----------



## AutoItKing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nafljhy* 
oh tk fury! is he also furryletters?

I don't think so.....


----------



## tK FuRY

Lol, no I'm not him. He's a pretty large eBay hub, while I just decided to provide "kits" designed for single sleeving PSUs (since you know ... it's all the rave now a days.... lol glad I did mine almost 2-3 years ago lol).

I honestly couldn't see myself selling only sleeving/2:1 heatshrink only. It would be awkward for myself.


----------



## AutoItKing

FURRYLETTERS sells a lot more than just sleeving and heat shrink.


----------



## Dualbrain




----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dualbrain*












I always wanted to do a gray+blur or gray+red themed case (my room is gray with blue stripe in middle) looks damn sexah!


----------



## Dualbrain

Thank you MijnWraak









I found another nice SATA-sleeve photo, maybe you like it.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dualbrain*


Thank you MijnWraak









I found another nice SATA-sleeve photo, maybe you like it.

-snip-


I like the watch, mind sending it to me for closer inspection?


----------



## Dualbrain

Together with the arm?


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dualbrain*


Together with the arm?


Shipping an arm might get you put onto some sort of "watchlist" haha








edit: unless you meant the sleeving being the arm instead of a human arm LOL. 3 AM I can't really think too much haha

Appreciate the pics though, hope to see a lime-green variety of sleeving someday


----------



## oliverw92

Sweet photos Nils! Nice one! Grey and orange looks so awesome


----------



## shnur

Whoa, that's some nice pics! I'll be looking forward into getting my sleeving done... as soon as I win the fight with my PSU


----------



## Dualbrain

Thank you Oliver. I like your motivated projects. You get better with each one and that is interesting to see.









Shnur: A pleasure to be here from time to time. I hope you guys and gals enjoy this thread as much as I do, even that seems to be more "same as always discussion" than a gallery on the last pages I quickly checked. Would be nice to see more results than theory







I try to contribute a little bit of pleasure.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Please keep posting Nils







Do you have any photos of the yummy green sleeving I ordered? I would love to see them to keep me excited about it


----------



## Dualbrain

spider, nice that you like it, but please understand that I don't want to talk about sleeve at all when I'm in forums. It's so boring to talk about it, read the talk about it







I think all is already said about sleeve, heatshrink etc. But as you just requested a picture ... here you go! A pleasure to show one of my favorites to you.










But with this, I think I hide again in the secret bunker









Kudos to MijnWraak, who has created a potentially beautiful place within this forum. I hope he will get more pictures in his thread. He deserves to have a thread that's more a gallery than talk if I look at the title.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Lol I meant for you to continue posting more pictures







I much prefer images to text. In fact, there are very few times that I ever read the text in a thread. I scroll through looking for pictures









I cannot WAIT to get my sleeving! That green just gets more and more beautiful every time I see it.


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dualbrain* 
spider, nice that you like it, but please understand that I don't want to talk about sleeve at all when I'm in forums. It's so boring to talk about it, read the talk about it







I think all is already said about sleeve, heatshrink etc. But as you just requested a picture ... here you go! A pleasure to show one of my favorites to you.










But with this, I think I hide again in the secret bunker









Kudos to MijnWraak, who has created a potentially beautiful place within this forum. I hope he will get more pictures in his thread. He deserves to have a thread that's more a gallery than talk if I look at the title.









What camera/lens/studio setup?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

*faints* I just had my monitor re-calibrated and the colour of the sleeve has changed quite drastically. If I thought it was beautiful before... boy was I missing out. This is stunning!

To echo what Oliver said too... What do you use to shoot these gorgeous pictures?


----------



## maximus20895

Yea, I couldn't find any EXIF data. Looks like a Nikon D series


----------



## Starbuck5000

Did some sleeving for the first time today, had this wonderfull MDPC stuff for a while but decided it was time to more than drool over it. Pics:
























Happy with how it turned out on the whole but feel the shrinking could look better as up close it looks a bit crap.

Btw Oli these are the sata cables I mentioned on MSN I have at work( but unsleeved ofc). As this pic shows I have a crap load of them although not all are black with clips most are the red Asus ones they bundle on their boards.


----------



## maximus20895

I don't see any pics


----------



## Dualbrain

Hmm, nothing special actually:
1x cardboard-box 50x50cm where the object is put into with a cheap-cut in the sides. Cost = 50 cent
1x thin sheet of foam as a diffusor in the holes = 10 cent
2x table-lights = 10â‚¬
1x Sony R1 camera (not available anymore) ~400 bucks

It's the beautiful sleeve which makes the photo







It glows from itself as you can see on the photo.

Anyways: Nothing special when it comes to photography. But thank you for expressing that you like it. Tremeloes of MDPC once said it: "Light makes a good photo, not a camera".


----------



## Starbuck5000

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maximus20895*


I don't see any pics










Should be working now


----------



## maximus20895

What kind of heatshrink did you use? I think yo could of moved it higher on the connector. It still looks good though


----------



## TurboHertz

All this cable sleaving and management gave me a geek-gasm


----------



## Starbuck5000

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maximus20895* 
What kind of heatshrink did you use? I think yo could of moved it higher on the connector. It still looks good though









its the mdpc stuff


----------



## Pings

Would the MDPC-X Sleeve SMALL - RED and the MDPC-X Heatshrink SMALL - BLACK be enough to cover my 24-Pin, 8-Pin, 8-Pin PCI, and 6-Pin PCI in my 800D? Does any know where I can get red MDPC-X sleeve and heatshrink in America?


----------



## Starbuck5000

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
Would the MDPC-X Sleeve SMALL - RED and the MDPC-X Heatshrink SMALL - BLACK be enough to cover my 24-Pin, 8-Pin, 8-Pin PCI, and 6-Pin PCI in my 800D? Does any know where I can get red MDPC-X sleeve and heatshrink in America?

You cant get MDPC-X sleeve anywhere other than direct from Nils. He'll ship world wide however.

For your that you probably want 20/30m of sleeving


----------



## oliverw92

You would need two of each, and you have to order from MDPC-X.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

This isn't directly related to sleeving but does anyone know of a place that sells extension cables for power supplies that ships worldwide? I need extensions for absolutely everything asides from molex









Must be an actual extension that can be un-clipped as adding more wire will not work for what I need. I can only find a 2 cable set with a 24pin and an 8pin extender here in NZ.


----------



## downlinx

here are a few of the cables i have done with paracord for my brother.


----------



## Shane1244

White connectors totally ruins it, and the fact that its to fat.


----------



## downlinx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


White connectors totally ruins it, and the fact that its to fat.


its for his htpc so it wont matter anyway.


----------



## rollynlow

nice downlinx, i might have to try this out, im cheap.


----------



## sdla4ever

so guys what would happen if a ground wire in the 24 pin pops out while its on? One of the clips broke so enough pressure pushes it out now


----------



## oliverw92

Depends how the mobo is designed. Just get some new pins/plug.


----------



## maximus20895

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sdla4ever*


so guys what would happen if a ground wire in the 24 pin pops out while its on? One of the clips broke so enough pressure pushes it out now










Do you not have a cable with the same pin on it laying around somewhere. This happened to me on another cable and I just spliced the cable with the correct pin on the original cable.


----------



## fortyfour

I gotta' question about all this.

I've got a modular PSU and some lines have multiple threads coming out. Like x3 Sata Power lines on one connected cable. If i only need two to be used, what do i do with the extra thread just hanging around.

I've been looking at galleries of nice sleeving jobs, and they all look tidy and with out these "extra" Sata Power lines. Are they using non-modular PSU's? Are they cutting the Sata Cables shorter?

Can anyone give some experience to shed some light on this. I might have to go with a non-modular PSU if i can't figure out how to tidy up these cables.


----------



## Syrillian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fortyfour*


I gotta' question about all this.

I've got a modular PSU and some lines have multiple threads coming out. Like x3 Sata Power lines on one connected cable. If i only need two to be used, what do i do with the extra thread just hanging around.

I've been looking at galleries of nice sleeving jobs, and they all look tidy and with out these "extra" Sata Power lines. Are they using non-modular PSU's? Are they cutting the Sata Cables shorter?

Can anyone give some experience to shed some light on this. I might have to go with a non-modular PSU if i can't figure out how to tidy up these cables.











I generally use small zip-ties and fold the unused (outer connectors) back against the cable itself and secure it. This will keep the cable uncluttered.

I would not recommend cutting off power connectors as you may need them later on down the road (one could re-attach them, but messin' with the heart too much makes me skittish), but I have done this on occasion.


----------



## fortyfour

I'm doin' my best visualizing it all, but sleeving these cables is giving me a headache. Especially after checking out "Million Dollar PC's". God, how'd they get so detailed with it all?

I'd like to ask them how they did it.


----------



## liveify

Just got sleeving pack from tk fury. 32 bucks for 100ft sleeving 10ft heatshrink
First time sleeving, I don't think its that bad


----------



## oliverw92

You could have got 225ft of the exact same stuff for $30 http://cableorganizer.com/nylon-multifilament/


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
You could have got 225ft of the exact same stuff for $30 http://cableorganizer.com/nylon-multifilament/

Is that stuff any good?


----------



## liveify

200 foot pack from tkfury is a better deal, it includes shipping and 20ft heatshrink for 50 bucks. 225ft shipped from that site is 41 dollars.


----------



## JediMstrKris

Okay, so I'm fixing to order my sleeving from Nils. (I want the good stuff so don't bother about telling me to get it somewhere else.) However, I went to look inside my case after installing some new CCFLs and noticed something that I don't think anyone has addressed here. My motherboard powercord seems to be different than everyone else's. There's one spot on the plastic end (sorry, don't know the exact name) that's empty and then another that seems to have two wires going into one pin. Can I still sleeve the double wired pin with 1/8" MDPC-X? My power supply is a Thermaltake 450W that is semi-modular. All the motherboard connections are not modular and are connected inside the PSU. Any help with this would be appreciated.


----------



## tK FuRY

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


You could have got 225ft of the exact same stuff for $30 http://cableorganizer.com/nylon-multifilament/


Remember "Continuous lengths are available in most sizes at an additional 10% surcharge. Please specify if you require continuous lengths."

$30*.10=$3 +$30 + X-shipping = greater than $40 most of the time







.

@ 200+ feet, that's $.19 per foot







, I'm down to about $.16 or so per foot at 200+ feet









But anywho, I'm not one to compete with prices, I've set mine at a price that's lower or equal to the competition. (I think).


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JediMstrKris*


Okay, so I'm fixing to order my sleeving from Nils. (I want the good stuff so don't bother about telling me to get it somewhere else.) However, I went to look inside my case after installing some new CCFLs and noticed something that I don't think anyone has addressed here. My motherboard powercord seems to be different than everyone else's. There's one spot on the plastic end (sorry, don't know the exact name) that's empty and then another that seems to have two wires going into one pin. Can I still sleeve the double wired pin with 1/8" MDPC-X? My power supply is a Thermaltake 450W that is semi-modular. All the motherboard connections are not modular and are connected inside the PSU. Any help with this would be appreciated.


The sleeving is certainly large enough to accommodate having 2 wires inside of it so don't be concerned about it at all







With the motherboard connections in general, you have the option of opening (carefully!) your power supply and sleeving all the way inside of it, or sleeving to the visible end of the cables. Many people prefer the first option as it gives a cleaner look, but if you don't want to void your warranty or don't know how to deal with an opened power supply safely, the latter is a good choice.


----------



## JediMstrKris

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


The sleeving is certainly large enough to accommodate having 2 wires inside of it so don't be concerned about it at all







With the motherboard connections in general, you have the option of opening (carefully!) your power supply and sleeving all the way inside of it, or sleeving to the visible end of the cables. Many people prefer the first option as it gives a cleaner look, but if you don't want to void your warranty or don't know how to deal with an opened power supply safely, the latter is a good choice.


I'm aware of the warranty issue. I've been reading through every cable sleeving guide and gallery I can find for the past week. Still don't understand why my power cord is different than everyone else's though.


----------



## jacobroufa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


Is that stuff any good?


I got some from furryletters right before TK got his in stock. Next time I order sleeving it'll be from TK. I love the nylon multifilament, personally. I think it comes down to personal preference. If you enjoy the absolutely cleanest looking sleeving (cleaner than MDPC IMO) and a GREAT end result, and don't mind all black, it's perfect.









The only gripe I have though, is that it's an absolute PITA to work with the first time. Be prepared to throw away a few inches. The reason I say this is because any snag shows right away, so tape your connectors while you're sliding the sleeving over them. The reason for this is because the sleeving doesn't expand *at all*.

I do need to find some better shrink though as my 1/4" 3:1 adhesive lined is too thick. Shouldn't have gotten adhesive lined, or should have gone for a 4:1. I don't think the end result is as clean as it should be. But sleeving-wise I'm going to say nylon multifilament is the only way to go. AFAIK MDPC is 3 strands per strand or whatever that is... this sleeving is freaking a hundred strands per strand. It's slick as hell. Get it. Plus, TK has done his research to the nth degree so you will be getting the best deal out there.


----------



## tK FuRY

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jacobroufa*


I got some from furryletters right before TK got his in stock. Next time I order sleeving it'll be from TK. I love the nylon multifilament, personally. I think it comes down to personal preference. If you enjoy the absolutely cleanest looking sleeving (cleaner than MDPC IMO) and a GREAT end result, and don't mind all black, it's perfect.









The only gripe I have though, is that it's an absolute PITA to work with the first time. Be prepared to throw away a few inches. The reason I say this is because any snag shows right away, *so tape your connectors while you're sliding the sleeving over them. The reason for this is because the sleeving doesn't expand *at all*.
*
I do need to find some better shrink though as my 1/4" 3:1 adhesive lined is too thick. Shouldn't have gotten adhesive lined, or should have gone for a 4:1. I don't think the end result is as clean as it should be. But sleeving-wise I'm going to say nylon multifilament is the only way to go. AFAIK MDPC is 3 strands per strand or whatever that is... this sleeving is freaking a hundred strands per strand. It's slick as hell. Get it. Plus, TK has done his research to the nth degree so you will be getting the best deal out there.


















Hmmmmmmmmm







, glad my advice worked out for you


----------



## MijnWraak

bump!


----------



## jacobroufa

Sleeving pics! YAY!


----------



## CyberShadow

^When I see sleeving like that it reminds me of the sentinels from Matrix lol.

Cant wait to get mine just waiting on TK to get some color options going...


----------



## jacobroufa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CyberShadow*


^When I see sleeving like that it reminds me of the sentinels from Matrix lol.

Cant wait to get mine just waiting on TK to get some color options going...


HELL YES! That's what I was thinking of, just couldn't remember what it was. Sentinels from the Matrix.

This sleeve is the same stuff that TK sells. His heatshrink is better though.


----------



## shnur

Whoa awesome!


----------



## CyberShadow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jacobroufa*


HELL YES! That's what I was thinking of, just couldn't remember what it was. Sentinels from the Matrix.

This sleeve is the same stuff that TK sells. His heatshrink is better though.


Thought I was the only one since Ive read TONS of these sleeve threads and not one person pointed it out. lol

TK does have some quality stuff just waiting for some red uv sleeving to be available soon hopefully.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

My sleeving will be here in a day or two so will upload lots of sexy pictures from the photoshoot when I'm done


----------



## jacobroufa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shnur* 
Whoa awesome!

Thanks! This was my first time sleeving!


----------



## jacobroufa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
My sleeving will be here in a day or two so will upload lots of sexy pictures from the photoshoot when I'm done









You had better!


----------



## Pipesafa

Hi guys,

I just decide to make the sleeving my complete system but some things are round my head.

I was thinking to buy a system sleeving kit from FrozenPC but then i read about furyletters on ebay so this maybe was the option, then i just walk for a place in my city where are specialist on electronic and electrical stuff and find several sleevings options so i decide one that looks pretty close and the material is like a Tex. So what you think about it. Is 1/8" and also can find shrink of 3/16" at $3 USD for 25ft




























Just a try










The Cost of 100ft is $10 USD.

My other question is about how much i'll need for my complete system, my PSU is an Antec TP 750 Blue, and i going to sleeve 3 more fans like the post before and some front bays and other parts.

Another issue that can't i solve is about how to remove the 24/8/6 pin connectros, i just try all the ways that can i find on the web but no one make it, I just wondering to buy a tool on the web but this will late my work because will be another 20 days tops between the buy and arrive to my country. :S

So people what you think at all. I appreciate all your comments and excuse me for my bad english XD.


----------



## IntelLover

That looks like triple weave. 100ft for $10 thats cheap. Furryletters is 25ft for $5.


----------



## CyberShadow

Come on TK get some RED sleeving! lol

100ft for $10 is very cheap!


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IntelLover* 
That looks like triple weave. 100ft for $10 thats cheap. Furryletters is 25ft for $5.

That isn't triple weave, it is nylon multifilament in blue!

In blue??!!


----------



## nafljhy

omg! thats the first time i've seen nylon multifilament in color!


----------



## jacobroufa

Nylon Multifilament in color?! Want. NAO.


----------



## Pipesafa

Hohohoho for your envy the place where i bought this also got in red, yellow, green an other 6 colors XD. So i think i made a good choice. Soon Pics of my complete system sleeving.


----------



## stormcr4nk

Hey guys all the sleeving looks great. Eventually I'm gonna give it a try, especially with my next psu which will prob be modular.

But anyway I wanted to ask if anyone had ever worked with that Techflex F6 stuff? The self wrapping.
I know its not gonna be recommended by you guys but I'd just like something quick to neaten up my cables once I get a new case (within a few weeks). One of these days when I have a little more free time I'd love to sit down and sleeve it the right way









Basically is it something I could use for psu cables? (despite what the frozencpu site says) Or you think its aimed more towards wrapping multiple power cables behind a desk etc.

Feedback from someone that's used it in the past would be great, thanks all.

here it is on frozencpu Self Wrapping Techflex F6


----------



## Dualbrain

The blue looks like "paracord". Very cheap, same as Nylon-Multi, looks like shoe-laces / is the same as shoe-laces.

Happy eastern!


----------



## despisedicon63

Great pic Nils! Just in time for Easter.

Yeah, the blue nylon filament doesn't compare to the MDPC stuff. Here's mine.


----------



## downlinx

dual brain, look who makes an appearance. love the photogenics hehe.


----------



## strezz

hi guys, just one question will this fit the individual wires on a psu?
http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sle...mall-black.htm

Thanks


----------



## despisedicon63

It most certainly will!


----------



## strezz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *despisedicon63* 
It most certainly will!









excellent, ordering now


----------



## JediMstrKris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *strezz* 
hi guys, just one question will this fit the individual wires on a psu?
http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sle...mall-black.htm

Thanks

Not only will it fit, that's the best sleeving you can get...anywhere. Unisleeving is exactly what it's made for.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

MDPC-X sleeve
























Furryletters sleeve








Mixture of the above

















My apologies for the inaccurate colours too... They were processed at 6500K and appear at that temperature when I open them up on my computer, but the web doesn't seem to display them correctly. Still look sexy anyway


----------



## liveify

Results of my first cable sleeving


----------



## despisedicon63

Quote:


Originally Posted by *liveify* 
Results of my first cable sleeving










This setup looks great! I love the 800D! More pics please!!!

Oh and please go put your system specs in your profile so it will show up in your signature so we can see what those components are!


----------



## shnur

^
Awesome! This is so sweet! Lots of work in that..


----------



## JediMstrKris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *liveify* 
Results of my first cable sleeving










What brand of sleeving did you use?


----------



## oliverw92

Thats nylon multifilament right? It looks pretty nice!


----------



## jacobroufa

Looks like nylon multi. What oliverw92 said. Sick!


----------



## Weedmancz

I made my own thread about this >.>

http://www.overclock.net/other-hardw...ml#post8942133


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Weedmancz* 
I made my own thread about this >.>

http://www.overclock.net/other-hardw...ml#post8942133

Should have just posted here







2-3 regulars here that answer most questions pretty quickly









Be sure to take pictures of your sleeving job!!


----------



## MotO

So Furryletters sells the good stuff for cheap on ebay? I'm not spending more on sleeving than my PSU was so MDPC is out of the question. I got some nylon multifilament before and it was the worst stuff ever. Impossible to get over anything cuz it didn't even expand. Just want all black with no transparency and then some colored stuff for highlights. So THIS is what furrys stuff looks like? If so, I'm getting that.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MotO* 
So Furryletters sells the good stuff for cheap on ebay? I'm not spending more on sleeving than my PSU was so MDPC is out of the question. I got some nylon multifilament before and it was the worst stuff ever. Impossible to get over anything cuz it didn't even expand. Just want all black with no transparency and then some colored stuff for highlights. So THIS is what furrys stuff looks like? If so, I'm getting that.

yessir







furry doesnt have any colored good sleeving though

Don't forget to get "CLEAN CUT"!


----------



## liveify

Quote:


Originally Posted by *despisedicon63* 
This setup looks great! I love the 800D! More pics please!!!

Oh and please go put your system specs in your profile so it will show up in your signature so we can see what those components are!

Done

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shnur* 
^
Awesome! This is so sweet! Lots of work in that..

Lots of work indeed, two days of sleeving extensions

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Thats nylon multifilament right? It looks pretty nice!

Yep the pack that TK Fury sells. Its very nice stuff, but to sleeve anything bigger than a single cable you need different stuff. This stuff doesn't expand easily.

One More pic for this thread


----------



## liveify

Double post, sorry


----------



## DuDeInThEmOoN42

I'm trying to stay around $40 - but I'm thinking of buying the aqua blue sleeving (20 meters seems plenty) with 2m of blue heatshrink. When my i7 WC loop arrives, I will have 3 yate loons to sleeve plus my existing fans. I won't worry about my PSU but I do want to sleeve my fans and maybe a few molex connectors. I have blue UV tubing, plus two blue cathodes, so blue seems to be my theme here.


----------



## Ben the OCer

You guys without heat guns, do you use a hair dryer for the heatshrink? I was just wondering because It seems to work pretty good for me, as I don't have a heat gun. Does a heat gun do a better job at shrinking the heatshrink for a tighter fit?


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ben the OCer* 
You guys without heat guns, do you use a hair dryer for the heatshrink? I was just wondering because It seems to work pretty good for me, as I don't have a heat gun. Does a heat gun do a better job at shrinking the heatshrink for a tighter fit?

Hair dryer works fine, as long as it's a decent wattage. Just have to hold it closer, and leave it a little longer. It will come out the exact same.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ben the OCer* 
You guys without heat guns, do you use a hair dryer for the heatshrink? I was just wondering because It seems to work pretty good for me, as I don't have a heat gun. Does a heat gun do a better job at shrinking the heatshrink for a tighter fit?

I use a butane lighter. Unless you have a high power hairdryer, it won't get hot enough to fully shrink the heatshrink. A butane lighter is better to use than a standard bic lighter as the blue flame is hotter than a yellow and doesn't get soot all over the shrink.


----------



## MijnWraak

You guys get an early viewing of tomorrow's Chimp Rally picture


















in my sleeving drawer


----------



## Starbuck5000

Anyone here used Nils's Crimping tool? ON MDPC-X it doesn't make any mention of whether it does 4 pin molex connectors.


----------



## oliverw92

It doesn't


----------



## Starbuck5000

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


It doesn't


Cheers Oli, I guess I'll get the one from KustomPC's then.


----------



## oliverw92

Don't get the Sunbeam ones, they break. I got mine off ebay. Nice solid metal ones, there is one for 4 pin molex and one for ATX ones. They look like bullets


----------



## Starbuck5000

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Don't get the Sunbeam ones, they break. I got mine off ebay. Nice solid metal ones, there is one for 4 pin molex and one for ATX ones. They look like bullets










??? I'm not talking about pin removal I'm talking about crimping ie fastening an atx or molex pin onto some wire


----------



## oliverw92

Oh crimping! I just use a pair of pliers and then solder it on.


----------



## hapgil121

my 2nd attempt at sleeving

black sleeving from jt&t at frys

Blue from mdpc-x


----------



## DefiedV

Here are some pics of my 1st attempt at sleeving using techflex clean cut. Staples make for sore thumbs. Oh and as you can see I'm no good with a camera.


----------



## Syrillian

That is really very nice, DefiedV.









uh... here is my very first sleeving job done a few years ago


----------



## oliverw92

Amazing Syr, 10/10


----------



## DefiedV

Ahhh... I am finally done sleeving everything I can see. SATA power connectors seriously suck, you can't hide the shrink at all. I just have heat shrink on there to stop the fray, works okay and looks less messy i.m.o. Also ran out of black shrink and ended up using some white for the fans. Now I just need to get my Haf back from powder coating. Oh and I have no idea how some of you consider this "fun"


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DefiedV* 
Ahhh... I am finally done sleeving everything I can see. SATA power connectors seriously suck, you can't hide the shrink at all. I just have heat shrink on there to stop the fray, works okay and looks less messy i.m.o. Also ran out of black shrink and ended up using some white for the fans. Now I just need to get my Haf back from powder coating. Oh and I have no idea how some of you consider this "fun"









WOW! You didn't take any shortcuts at all, major rep'age!


----------



## Core300

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Amazing Syr, 10/10









Don't be mean to Syrillian


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Core300* 
Don't be mean to Syrillian









Haha, he knows i'm joking


----------



## Core300

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Haha, he knows i'm joking









I know, he's always a cool helpful guy









And to say something relevant to the topic, I need to do some sleeving. My PSU came sleeved fully though so no fun


----------



## JT_Heater

24 Pin


----------



## bbaseballboy1234

hey dude i got a few questions regrading my first time sleeving...
1. I ripped off the plastic of my dell keyboard and nows its just all wires and i feel like sleeving it as a practice before i buy a $150 filco keyboard and sleeve it. The wire size is the same as any USB cord so what size is recommended? i thinking 1/8th?
2. this or this for better sleeving?
3. And heatshrinks? if i'd be using 1/8 sleeve then i would need 1/4 heatshrink right?

edit: ill be getting the ebay one







they look so damn good. MXPE is too expensive for me even though they got the perfect size for USB

edit2: what are the best heat shrinks for sleeves of 1/8


----------



## DefiedV

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bbaseballboy1234* 
3. And heatshrinks? if i'd be using 1/8 sleeve then i would need 1/4 heatshrink right?

edit2: what are the best heat shrinks for sleeves of 1/8


Depends on how much time you want to waste. I used 1/8th shrink over 1/8th sleeve and you have to stretch each and every sleeve out with needle nose pliers. This is slow going cause if you stretch to fast the sleeve tears. If and when I do this again I will use either 4-1 1/4" or 3-1 1/4 " gluelined. The shrink needs to shrink tight enough to have a death grip on the sleeve, other wise when the sleeve bends or kink it pulls out. The pulling out part sucks, you need to finagle the sleeving back into the shrunk shrink. If you can find 3/16 that will work aswell, 1/4 is just gonna give you more leeway with pulling it over connectors and such.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DefiedV*


Depends on how much time you want to waste. I used 1/8th shrink over 1/8th sleeve and you have to stretch each and every sleeve out with needle nose pliers. This is slow going cause if you stretch to fast the sleeve tears. If and when I do this again I will use either 4-1 1/4" or 3-1 1/4 " gluelined. The shrink needs to shrink tight enough to have a death grip on the sleeve, other wise when the sleeve bends or kink it pulls out. The pulling out part sucks, you need to finagle the sleeving back into the shrunk shrink. If you can find 3/16 that will work aswell, 1/4 is just gonna give you more leeway with pulling it over connectors and such.


just compiling my list atm, still having a hard time finding shrink wrap. so what would be best and easiest 3/16 3:1 or 1/4 3:1? both adhesive btw. going 1/8 clean-cut from furryletters. tnx


----------



## bbaseballboy1234

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


just compiling my list atm, still having a hard time finding shrink wrap. so what would be best and easiest 3/16 3:1 or 1/4 3:1? both adhesive btw. going 1/8 clean-cut from furryletters. tnx










i think i'm going for 3/16 but i dont know where to buy it from too


----------



## DefiedV

Wish I found this shrink sooner [4-1] adhesive lined 3/16th

Glue lined - check
4-1 - check
3/16th - check

[edit] Its gonna be $40 minimum to order from that site, $15 shipping.


----------



## BrokeBrain

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
MDPC-X sleeve
























Furryletters sleeve








Mixture of the above

















My apologies for the inaccurate colours too... They were processed at 6500K and appear at that temperature when I open them up on my computer, but the web doesn't seem to display them correctly. Still look sexy anyway









So, is the Furryletters sleeve the same as MDPC sleeve?
Looks close in these pictures.


----------



## Starbuck5000

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BrokeBrain*


So, is the Furryletters sleeve the same as MDPC sleeve?
Looks close in these pictures.


Judging but the envolope the sleeving is in I'd say MDPC-X


----------



## oliverw92

And the fact that it says MDPC-x at the top of the post


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


And the fact that it says MDPC-x at the top of the post










I think he was referring to how Nils gives a personalized drawing to every buyer on his package's envelope. I did have to reread his post about 4 times to understand it though, so ... *shrug*


----------



## sabret00the

wow amazing thread. Subbed!
The only piece of sleeving I have on my system is the main power cable that powers the motherboard which came with sleeving. I'm definitely picking queues from this thread.


----------



## BrokeBrain

What I'm saying is............. The Furryletters sleeving looks to be the same sleeving as the MDPC-X.

How does MDPC-X ship their sleeving? Postal or UPS/FedEx?


----------



## Despised Icon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BrokeBrain*


What I'm saying is............. The Furryletters sleeving looks to be the same sleeving as the MDPC-X.


It isn't. I got some of the Furryletters sleeving right before I ordered all of my MDPC-X sleeving, and the two blacks are a different texture and they look different. You can't see through either one of them though.


----------



## bbaseballboy1234

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BrokeBrain*


What I'm saying is............. The Furryletters sleeving looks to be the same sleeving as the MDPC-X.

How does MDPC-X ship their sleeving? Postal or UPS/FedEx?


theyre international company so shipping is pretty high and i think its UPS but i could be wrong


----------



## BrokeBrain

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Despised Icon*


It isn't. I got some of the Furryletters sleeving right before I ordered all of my MDPC-X sleeving, and the two blacks are a different texture and they look different. You can't see through either one of them though.


Thanks, I'm getting an order ready now for MDPC-X.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BrokeBrain*


Thanks, I'm getting an order ready now for MDPC-X.


Tell him I sent you, I want to see if he remembers me









(or don't, you don't have to







)

BTW, I'm currently updating the OP, does anyone have any recommendations for Heatshink? (want to get some value, bang-for-buck, and quality)

Thanks!


----------



## MijnWraak

Overhauled the OP. Will update with more information on "economy" sleeving. need recommendations for heatshrink sellers!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

How did you guys not understand what he was meaning? I understood quite easily. There are photos of both MDPC-X and furryletters sleeving there (I wrote which was which above each photo) and the bottom one shows a mix of both types of sleeve.









There are 2 main differences between the two sleeves. 
1. Furryletters sleeve is a slightly lighter black than the MDPC-X sleeve
2. His sleeve doesn't cost near as much









My honest recommendation is to get the black sleeving from furryletters and get your heatshrink and coloured sleeving from MDPC-X. After having used the MDPC-X SATA heatshrink, I'd never use 'shrink from any other brand. It's so easy to work with and has a crazy thin wall. It shrinks beautifully too and hugs the sleeve very tightly.


----------



## jacobroufa

Forgot the name of the seller but I got 3:1 1/4 adhesive lined really cheap with free shipping and samples of other stuff. I like it pretty well. Lemme find the name of the ebay seller then I'll update ya.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jacobroufa*


Forgot the name of the seller but I got 3:1 1/4 adhesive lined really cheap with free shipping and samples of other stuff. I like it pretty well. Lemme find the name of the ebay seller then I'll update ya.


Was it a seller called Genuinedealz by any chance?


----------



## oliverw92

Adhesive lined doesn't attract me really, sounds like a bloody pain if you got it on wrong!

In the UK, www.rapidonline.com sells decent sleeving, they only do down to 5mm though so not good for single sleeving wires.

Going to place an order from MDPC soon, does 40m of small sleeve sound enough to people?


----------



## Starbuck5000

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Adhesive lined doesn't attract me really, sounds like a bloody pain if you got it on wrong!

In the UK, www.rapidonline.com sells decent sleeving, they only do down to 5mm though so not good for single sleeving wires.

Going to place an order from MDPC soon, does 40m of small sleeve sound enough to people?


Answer not changed since msn


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Going to place an order from MDPC soon, does 40m of small sleeve sound enough to people?


Should be good. I really need to get around to getting a molex remover and sleeving the rest of my psu >.<


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Adhesive lined doesn't attract me really, sounds like a bloody pain if you got it on wrong!

In the UK, www.rapidonline.com sells decent sleeving, they only do down to 5mm though so not good for single sleeving wires.

Going to place an order from MDPC soon, does 40m of small sleeve sound enough to people?


For a whole psu? If so, 60m is a safer amount to get.


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Starbuck5000*


Answer not changed since msn










Lol, just want to double check since you haven't finished yours yet









Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


Should be good. I really need to get around to getting a molex remover and sleeving the rest of my psu >.<


Ta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


For a whole psu? If so, 60m is a safer amount to get.


You may have a point, i have a lot of fans and stuff to do.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
You may have a point, i have a lot of fans and stuff to do.

Well, the amount that some people use for their psu is 70m so it's a tough call. Shipping isn't cheap from MDPC after the currency conversion (at least not for me) so it's better to get more than you think you need, rather than less


----------



## oliverw92

Pretty cheap for the UK. I don't plan on individually doing things like molex so i should be fine with 50m.


----------



## Jyr

Just wondering, how much would it cost to sleeve an entire PSU with decent sleeving? I'd have to buy whatever tools needed to extract the pins, too.

Don't know anything about sleeving.









Thanks!

EDIT: I bought some sleeving. What tools am I going to need to get this done?


----------



## wermad

just stopped by a Fry's and they have a nice "clean cut" sleeve, bought some and tested using red, yellow, and orange wires, no see thru







, got some heat shrink w/ adhesive, going to test some more, still practicing soldering, it is actually easier than i expected. making a little custom sleeve for a couple of 80mm fans for testing my solder skills and sleeve w/ shrink wrap. just ordered extractor tools, could not get the paper clips to remove atx pins.

edit: got the fans spliced and working, ok soldering and a little effort to get 3/16 adhesive shrink wrap, other than, looks darn good


----------



## shnur

At first I needed a lot of research to find how to reconnect me sleeved cables, I think there should be a diagram for the SATA, Molex, 4-pin/8-pin CPU, 6-pin/8-pin PCI-e in the first post.

Here's for the PCI-E


Hum, I may have an issue











Anybody has an idea? I've ripped of a cable because it just didn't want to get out









EDIT: MDPC-X has a special going on!!!

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sle...sleeve-kit.htm


----------



## DJLiquid

I am not at home atm (so no pics) but I made a molex extracting tool. I was having a heck of a time getting my molex plugs off.
What I did was take a rather large nail (but small enough to fit in the housing) and cut the point off using my dremel. Then I threw that in the vice and drilled a hole down the axis. It worked perfectly.


----------



## ALIGN

I cheated and got some already made up


----------



## jacobroufa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ALIGN* 
I cheated and got some already made up









Cheater Cheater Phenom Eater! LOL That is a sick looking setup though; I know this is totally OT but seriously sick looking setup, pre-sleeved cables aside. Should throw in the "Rate my Cables" thread!


----------



## shnur

Oh, I have another question, is there anybody here that ordered some green MDPC-X sleeving? I just need <1m for my green PSU cable... Don't feel like ordering 10m for that O_O


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*


Oh, I have another question, is there anybody here that ordered some green MDPC-X sleeving? I just need <1m for my green PSU cable... Don't feel like ordering 10m for that O_O


I think you can ask Nils directly about it, I'm sure he could cut you a deal for it.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*


Oh, I have another question, is there anybody here that ordered some green MDPC-X sleeving? I just need <1m for my green PSU cable... Don't feel like ordering 10m for that O_O


If you didn't live in Canada then I'd send you some of mine. I'm about to order another 10m and already have 9m lying around waiting.


----------



## Core300

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ALIGN*


I cheated and got some already made up










Damn that's clean.


----------



## fshizl

Beginning








End

























Under UV


----------



## wermad

very nice color combo!


----------



## madhung24

when sleeving your PSU cables how do you sleeve the daisy chain ones like molexs or SATAs. Do you decrimp and recrimp them again? or is there an easier way?


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *madhung24* 
when sleeving your PSU cables how do you sleeve the daisy chain ones like molexs or SATAs. Do you decrimp and recrimp them again? or is there an easier way?

yep, pull them out one by one, i just bend the pins and sleeve over them... lol


----------



## shnur

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
I think you can ask Nils directly about it, I'm sure he could cut you a deal for it.









Great idea!

I actually looked at my shipping box from Nils, and guess what I found! PERFECT LENGHT of green sample!!! I was so happy!!!









Now I have to figure something out with the cable I've pulled too hard :S

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
If you didn't live in Canada then I'd send you some of mine. I'm about to order another 10m and already have 9m lying around waiting.

Yeah I was actually thinking about you, but then I realized that shipping will be probably more expensive than just ordering 10m from Nils haha


----------



## MijnWraak

Bump!


----------



## nascasho




----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nascasho*












very clean, I like it a lot









What color heatshrink would you guys get to go with Grey + Orange sleeve from MDPC-X?


----------



## nascasho

^^^ You'll probably be better off with black Heatshrink.


----------



## MijnWraak

Ordered 20m of Gray Small and 10m of Aquamarine Blue Small +3m of black shrink







Can't wait!


----------



## wermad

just got my pin removal kit, from moddersmart, tricky to remove the f pins from the m plug, a few attempts and getting the hang of it, practicing on an 8pin pwr extensions. got my door fans (4x 120 yates) sleeved, soldering the tips (no pin) to one harness was a bit tricky w/ the sleeve only half shrink wraped, just used some paper clips to hold back the sleeving and unshrunk wrap while soldering wires, after that shrinked wrap individual harneses and added 1/2 (13mm) adhesive shrink wrap to cover the soldering joint, installed 3pin plug, presto! all four fire up using one plug. starting to really dig sleeving and soldering


----------



## DefiedV

How did you guys get your 24 pins to be rectangular, mine is all flared out.


----------



## twm.7

Put them the way you want and attach them behind the right panel ?


----------



## BrokeBrain

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


Beginning








End

Under UV


Where do you get those neon connectors ?
Is that sleeving from Nils?


----------



## aksthem1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BrokeBrain* 
Where do you get those neon connectors ?
Is that sleeving from Nils?

FrozenCPU has some, as does Directron, CrazyPC, and a few others.

Seems to be from Nils. Has a multifilament look for 1/8".


----------



## BrokeBrain

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aksthem1*


FrozenCPU has some, as does Directron, CrazyPC, and a few others.

Seems to be from Nils. Has a multifilament look for 1/8".


I can't find the neon 24 pin connectors.

Got a link?

Thanks.

Never mind, I see them.


----------



## Kaze105

I have a simple question about the 24 pin. It doesnt matter which wire goes into the pin as long as its the same color correct?


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kaze105*


I have a simple question about the 24 pin. It doesnt matter which wire goes into the pin as long as its the same color correct?


I would say no, there is a reason many who do the 24pin label each wire to correspond to the original location on the plug.

pls correct me if im wrong, tnx









im labeling each line, got an inexpensive label maker, took me a few mins to print just #, just gonna follow the diagram that has the pins numbered


----------



## MijnWraak

I'd say it's pretty safe to assume 2 wires of the same gauge and color are interchangeable. There are some of the same color but different thicknesses though, so I wouldn't switch those.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


I'd say it's pretty safe to assume 2 wires of the same gauge and color are interchangeable. There are some of the same color but different thicknesses though, so I wouldn't switch those.










tnx MijnWraak, +rep, imma play it safe and level each line


----------



## wermad

just did the 24pin, took me about 3-4 hrs, really challenging, came out ok


----------



## Kaze105

I just found a problem as i finished sleeving my 24 pin. When i place it back into the hole, i see that it takes up almost all the space, im wondering if i would be able to sleeve my PCI-e and 8 pin cables.

I am individually sleeving with 1/8 sleeving.

Im wondering how you guys were able to sleeve every cable and still fit it back into the hole.


----------



## oliverw92

Alot of people don't put the sleeving through the hole, they just sleeve up to it and heatshrink to the hole. Another option is getting some large sleeving and heatshrink and only individually sleeving to about 2" from the hole. Then you get the large sleeve and put it over the 24 cables on the remaining 2" and into the hole. Then just heatshrink the large and small sleeve together where they cross.


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kaze105*


I just found a problem as i finished sleeving my 24 pin. When i place it back into the hole, i see that it takes up almost all the space, im wondering if i would be able to sleeve my PCI-e and 8 pin cables.

I am individually sleeving with 1/8 sleeving.

Im wondering how you guys were able to sleeve every cable and still fit it back into the hole.


i ziptied the inside portion extremely tight. forced it into the hole then ziptied that. then i put the psu together and cut the exterior ziptie. hope that isnt to confusing


----------



## Kaze105

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Alot of people don't put the sleeving through the hole, they just sleeve up to it and heatshrink to the hole. Another option is getting some large sleeving and heatshrink and only individually sleeving to about 2" from the hole. Then you get the large sleeve and put it over the 24 cables on the remaining 2" and into the hole. Then just heatshrink the large and small sleeve together where they cross.


I guess it would be difficult for me to do that now considering i sleeved into the hole.
(didnt really care about warranty as its a good psu)

Thanks for the info though, ill consider that when i sleeve my second psu.

Also thanks da tick, i did use some zipties, but i guess i should make them tighter.


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kaze105*


I guess it would be difficult for me to do that now considering i sleeved into the hole.
(didnt really care about warranty as its a good psu)

Thanks for the info though, ill consider that when i sleeve my second psu.

Also thanks da tick, i did use some zipties, but i guess i should make them tighter.


put a ziptie around the whole bunch. it will help keep them together so you can get it into the hole. i used pliers to tighten them


----------



## Dualbrain

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brokebrain*


where do you get those neon connectors ?
Is that sleeving from nils?


100% *not *:d


----------



## shnur

Finally!



















I love the customization he's giving









On first looks I was impressed by quality!









End result (I ran out of heatshrinks/I'm not quite sure how I'll be putting my SATA cables on the actual cable, so holding on that...)


































Those pictures mean one thing: the sleeving kit at MDPC is enough for a 400W PSU!








(Just make sure you don't use too much heatshrink...)


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shnur* 









I personally would've used half the length of heatshrink on each cable tbh. That's why you ran out of heatshrink


----------



## MijnWraak

Yeah the 4:1 heatshrink that it comes with doesn't need very much surface to grab to, so you don't need too much to secure it


----------



## shnur

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
I personally would've used half the length of heatshrink on each cable tbh. That's why you ran out of heatshrink









I'd love to have known that BEFORE I would have done it, like having some close-up shots of how much shrink (not psychologists...) you need to survive. How far in the PSU hole you can get and so on and so forth.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shnur* 
I'd love to have known that BEFORE I would have done it, like having some close-up shots of how much shrink (not psychologists...) you need to survive. How far in the PSU hole you can get and so on and so forth.

Maybe I should add some more tips to the OP


----------



## shnur

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
Maybe I should add some more tips to the OP









Yup...
Maybe even remove some







from your sig since my work pc is crashing on it lol!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shnur* 
I'd love to have known that BEFORE I would have done it, like having some close-up shots of how much shrink (not psychologists...) you need to survive. How far in the PSU hole you can get and so on and so forth.

Tbh, take a look at some of the systems on www.million-dollar-pc.com. That's a good way to see how some of the hardcores do it


----------



## shnur

yeah, but I'm not hardcore







(and I don't like jeans pc's!)


----------



## oliverw92

Y onli 1 green wir?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*


yeah, but I'm not hardcore







(and I don't like jeans pc's!)


I was more meaning for the sleeving


----------



## shnur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Y onli 1 green wir?


The green is the one that powers everything up









Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


I was more meaning for the sleeving










I know







but I know the website inside-out







I love it!!!


----------



## oliverw92

OIoooo thats [email protected] I always forget wich one is the on etha boots it on.


----------



## MijnWraak

Here's a pretty good example of proper heatshrinking







(btw shnur, you can always order more and redo the shrink if you think you need to. but as long as you're happy that's all that really matters)









credit - Crys1s Gam3r


----------



## shnur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


Here's a pretty good example of proper heatshrinking







(btw shnur, you can always order more and redo the shrink if you think you need to. but as long as you're happy that's all that really matters)

credit - Crys1s Gam3r


Yeah, I'll probably be putting a new order soon to Nils, the only thing is that I need to figure out if I need a crippler/crippling tools because I pulled too hard on a cable









And WOW! Crys1s Gam3r has done an extremely nice job there! It's like perfect! Could you find some pictures of the sleeve before the 24-pin plastic is put on?


----------



## Starbuck5000

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


Here's a pretty good example of proper heatshrinking







(btw shnur, you can always order more and redo the shrink if you think you need to. but as long as you're happy that's all that really matters)









credit - Crys1s Gam3r


Wow, any tips on how to get it that perfect? and what size of shrink is being uses there?


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Starbuck5000*


Wow, any tips on how to get it that perfect? and what size of shrink is being uses there?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r*

Thank you! No secret, just LOTS of practice and patience... honestly I went through a good 3/4 of a Family-pack before I could get get it completely even. I'm constantly refining my methods, so if I gave you specific advice now it might be obsolete in a week or two.


he's using small shrink from MDPC-X









Couldn't find any pictures he made of it outside the 24-pin casing, but I hope I don't get in trouble for linking to this picture!


----------



## Ben the OCer

What heat gun would you guys suggest? I've tried a hair drier but it doesn't seem to get the shrink tight enough. Are there any quality entry level heat guns. Would something like this do the trick:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...yword=heat+gun


----------



## DefiedV

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 








credit - Crys1s Gam3r

That is perfection.

SHNUR: I suggest you I would order more shrink and redo your cables. While I admit it is painstakingly hard to measure/cut/sleeve in 5/8" increments it is well worth the end result.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ben the OCer* 
What heat gun would you guys suggest. I've tried a hair drier but it doesn't seem to get the shrink tight enough. Are there any quality entry level heat guns. Would something like this do the trick:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...yword=heat+gun


Ben: If you are near a harbor freight you can pick up a heat-gun for as cheap as $10. I actually used the blue part of the flame of a bic lighter for half of mine and then upgraded to a butane lighter. Butane is better since it doesn't produce that nasty black residue. I would have used the heat-gun but I was too lazy to go the shed(12AM) so I tried a hairdryer and it was way to loud and didn't squat to the shrink.


----------



## Ben the OCer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DefiedV*


Ben: If you are near a harbor freight you can pick up a heat-gun for as cheap as $10. I actually used the blue part of the flame of a bic lighter for half of mine and then upgraded to a butane lighter. Butane is better since it doesn't produce that nasty black residue. I would have used the heat-gun but I was too lazy to go the shed(12AM) so I tried a hairdryer and it was way to loud and didn't squat to the shrink.


I do happen to have one pretty close. Thanks for the suggestion. They actually have two $10 heat guns on their web site:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=66001
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96289

They also have a $40 one that has 12 temperatures settings (the $10 ones have 2):
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97114

I'll have to check those out when I get a chance. Thanks again for the help. Is Chicago Electric Power Tools a good company?


----------



## DefiedV

They are not anything like Dewalt/Milwaukee if that is what you mean. Mainly a very bargain brand that performs like what it is priced at. I have both an angle grinder and heat-gun by them and for the amount that I use them they function just fine. For $10 it heats up things that it is supposed to and doesn't light your hand on fire.

Edit: I have the orange one. I would get a different brand and probably spend more like $60 if I was to get another one. Like any other tool once you have it you will find 1000 more uses for it, but $10 is tough to beat.


----------



## Ben the OCer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DefiedV*


They are not anything like Dewalt/Milwaukee if that is what you mean. Mainly a very bargain brand that performs like what it is priced at. I have both an angle grinder and heat-gun by them and for the amount that I use them they function just fine. For $10 it heats up things that it is supposed to and doesn't light your hand on fire.

Edit: I have the orange one. I would get a different brand and probably spend more like $60 if I was to get another one. Like any other tool once you have it you will find 1000 more uses for it, but $10 is tough to beat.


I totally agree with you. I'm not a fan of buying junk that just needs to be replaced later. I'd prefer to pay a little more for a quality brand, that's why I asked. Home Depot has a Milwaukee Model 3300 Heat Gun for $35.99. Do you think that would be a good one to go with? It even has 12 temperature settings.


----------



## DefiedV

Yeah that one and the $40 harbor freight one appear to be similar in features. For heat shrinking only the main thing you need is 700*f and a for it to be stable on its back. TBH I have only used my $10 chicago and this model here. The other temperatures you get by spending more come into play more with other uses, I have found the fan speed to be more usefull than temperature changes.


----------



## wermad

the Orange from Harbor works great, no complaints, and as DEfiedV mentioned cant beat it bang-for-buck.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*


Yeah, I'll probably be putting a new order soon to Nils, the only thing is that I need to figure out if I need a crippler/crippling tools because I pulled too hard on a cable









And WOW! Crys1s Gam3r has done an extremely nice job there! It's like perfect! Could you find some pictures of the sleeve before the 24-pin plastic is put on?


Crimper. Not crippler.


----------



## oliverw92

LOL crippler


----------



## shnur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Crimper. Not crippler.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


LOL crippler




















So, except my grammar, does anybody knows the answer to the question?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*











So, except my grammar, does anybody knows the answer to the question?


Well, did you break the pin or break the little tabs off the pin? If so, then yes you will need a crimper and some more pins.


----------



## shnur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Well, did you break the pin or break the little tabs off the pin? If so, then yes you will need a crimper and some more pins.


I don't think so, I just pulled really hard so it kind of ripped off, I still need to extract the pin for the connector... Could I just basically re-solder it back to it?


----------



## aksthem1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*


I don't think so, I just pulled really hard so it kind of ripped off, I still need to extract the pin for the connector... Could I just basically re-solder it back to it?


No need for it. Just strip the wire a bit and try to pry open the pin. Some needle nose pliers could do the trick.

Then for a crimping tool you can use the Waldom W-HT-1921. Cheap and very effective.


----------



## shnur

^

Ok, I'll see what I can do with nose pliers, I hope it'll fit









I want the MDPC crimping tool though! It looks so cool! + it comes with crimps


----------



## godofdeath

anyone in new york or usa getting the crimper from nils?
i rather split the shipping


----------



## godofdeath

also all the pics of mdpc-x sleeving can be found in xtremesystems forums


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


also all the pics of mdpc-x sleeving can be found in xtremesystems forums


I think I linked to this thread for the guide part, but forgot to mention the 77 pages of MDPC-X sleeving picture goodness! Inspired me to make this thread in the first place









http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=202639


----------



## oliverw92

The MDPC crimper is the best out there. Trust me, don't go for anything else. It also does every single type of pin in a pc. Also the MDPC pins are the best - they are the only ones with extra long tabs which means when you crimp it the cabs properly cut into the wire.


----------



## Xien16

First post in this forum









Let's start with some old ones...
































































Oh man... even small pictures are too big for this forum


----------



## jacobroufa

Hey Xien! Welcome to OCN! I've been a fan of your work for awhile. Though I didn't know it was you. But I am curious... How long did it take you to get into MillionDollarPC and was that a goal of yours from the onset?


----------



## Xien16

The goal was to get a new office PC after the old MB died...
That system was 4 or 5 years old and so I "had to" get a full new PC - so why not mod it from the beginning on









The whole build started on april, took about seven month (it was the office PC and so it had to rum during the modding) and in summer I didn't really think it would be a good system at all because of many problems









From "this system could be something for MDPC" to "this system is a MDPC" it took some weeks and 2000 pictures but I finally got the best out of my Canon Powershot









This project is finished and that's good


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Heya Xien, nice to see you here


----------



## oliverw92

Nice to see you here Xien







Seen your stuff over at the family


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xien16* 

































edit:


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


























1 quoted image per post please!


----------



## shnur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xien16*


First post in this forum


















Oh man... even small pictures are too big for this forum










Awesome first post!!!









I really like what you did to your power supply, also, did you have a hard time wiring the normal power cable to the back?


----------



## KShirza1

I like this thread


----------



## s_stahl02

wow how an i suppose to post my attempts at sleeving after the pros just did... ***. i still have 24 pin to do


----------



## shnur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KShirza1*


I like this thread










Could you post all your pics on that system! I really love what you've done








With more brightness, looks really nice









And good job s_stahl02! It's a nice start


----------



## Xien16

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shnur* 
I really like what you did to your power supply, also, did you have a hard time wiring the normal power cable to the back?

I didn't even change one cable of this PSU








The MDPC-X Sleeve is that dense that even a red wire does not change the blue sleeve









But this just works fine when you pull it srtong enaugh over the cable









Macro Test


----------



## MijnWraak

bump!


----------



## wermad

*FYI:
Per FurryLetters from Ebay, regarding TechFlex 1/8" (~3mm) "Clean Cut" black sleeve, its in back order, TechFlex cant keep up w/ demand, eta 1 or 2 WEEKS! *

Possible correlation: Local Fry's store (San Diego, Cali) has been out of the J&T Cleancut 1/8" black sleeve, store rep has no eta. This is what I bought, but since its been a week since no more shipments, Im suspecting J&T gets there "cleancut" from TechFlex too. Any one know if this is true? Could get the sleeve from another online vendor, but I will wait for FurryLetters, he's got the best price and shipping for the "cleancut" TechFlex sleeve.


----------



## shnur

Now is the best time in the year to get it from MDPC and enjoy quality


----------



## nascasho

@Xien... gorgeous man. I see your posts all the time at XS, can't get enough.

To you guys that run multi-colored sleeves, you ever go through the phase where you think one solid color (Black) is more appealing than multi, then zip zap your point of view then think that muti-colored is better?

After swapping from all out black to red/white/black... I kinda miss my black, lol.

Before:

















After:

















I been making too many decisions and find the only way to like it, is to experiment...

Which you guys like better, because I may just spend this weekend going back to black.


----------



## godofdeath

i cant seem to get the stubborn atx pins out any ideas?


----------



## MijnWraak

Less is more imo, so I'd go with a main color (black/gray/white) and use accent colors sparingly (orange, aquamarine, green, red)


----------



## DefiedV

I think it looks way better with the white+red sleeving. Gives you something more to look in the all black interior. Maybe remove some of the white from the 24pin to satisfy your need for a change?


----------



## nascasho

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
Less is more imo, so I'd go with a main color (black/gray/white) and use accent colors sparingly (orange, aquamarine, green, red)

I think I misused "sparingly", lol. I tried to go with a pattern, but it came out a little confusing maybe, dunno.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DefiedV* 
I think it looks way better with the white+red sleeving. Gives you something more to look in the all black interior. Maybe remove some of the white from the 24pin to satisfy your need for a change?

Yeah, the main reason I did it because I'm going towards a phase of I prefer flashy and loud over silent but sexy kinda look.

Like the top is the Maybach, bottom is the loud-ass Ferrari.

I may try removing some of the white and see who it looks in photoshop or something, good idea.


----------



## Xien16

Thanks guys


----------



## Ben the OCer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xien16* 
Thanks guys

















Hi, Xien, I was just wondering what method you use because your end result is really really sweet. What length do you cut the shrink, and where do you measure to get them all even like that.


----------



## Xien16

I put my ageold shrink model on the shrink I want to cut and cut some down with small a pair of scissors by hand... No special trick on cutting them


----------



## Ben the OCer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xien16* 
I put my ageold shrink model on the shrink I want to cut and cut some down with small a pair of scissors by hand... No special trick on cutting them


















What is your shrink model? I more meant info so I could reproduce yours because they look so neat and even. You really do a great job with the pictures, by the way, they always look amazing. Do you use a sheet or something? The picture above is classic. Did you use thread to make it float?


----------



## Xien16

This is just the necessary tension you need on sleeving








If you do it right your sleeving will be as strong as this one...

Here you can see my guide - how to sleeve perfect


----------



## shnur

^

Amazing pictures, I love your work, but I tried learning German twice but I have failed until now, would you be awesomely cool/my hero and translate it in English







?


----------



## Xien16

Oh man









What I like most about it: "Maximum voltage:"
But you can try to get it stand like this with high voltage, too


----------



## MijnWraak

Look what I just got in the mail ^-^


----------



## shnur

I know how to use google, but it's not that accurate AFAIK...

MijnWraak, I like your mail









What is that Jeans colour







?


----------



## MijnWraak

Jeans color?







you mean the blue sleeve? It's aquamarine :>

Thinking I'm going to use the orange on fans, blue as accent color.


----------



## shnur

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
Jeans color?







you mean the blue sleeve? It's aquamarine :>

Thinking I'm going to use the orange on fans, blue as accent color.

I meant the blue that is closer to the ground... looks a bit jeany


----------



## just a noob

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shnur* 
I meant the blue that is closer to the ground... looks a bit jeany









I think that's gray?


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shnur* 
I meant the blue that is closer to the ground... looks a bit jeany









Sorry I'm still lost









The pebble-ish steps? Outside the back door in non-direct sunlight.

edit: or the gray sleeve


----------



## Thedark1337

@ Xien







DAMN i have never seen such Perfection and win in one system. Is that your main system or office? And that fan connector block is connected to the PSU or motherboard?


----------



## Xien16

It is connected to the MB and to the question what system it is:

I showed pictures of all three on the last few pages so you have to be more precise









Some really old ones:


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Do you guys think this is enough to sleeve my system? More than enough? What do you think i can eliminate or get rid of?

1x Heatshrink SATA - BLACK

1x Sleeve SATA - GRAND BLEU

6x Heatshrink SMALL - BLACK

5x Sleeve SMALL - BLACK

3x Sleeve SMALL - GRAND BLEU


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Do you guys think this is enough to sleeve my system? More than enough? What do you think i can eliminate or get rid of?

1x Heatshrink SATA - BLACK

1x Sleeve SATA - GRAND BLEU

6x Heatshrink SMALL - BLACK

5x Sleeve SMALL - BLACK

3x Sleeve SMALL - GRAND BLEU

I'd get more heatshrink or less sleeve. should be 1:1









you could probably get off with 40m of black and 20m of blue.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

That would be just barely 200ft. I would rather have more than I need, not to mention i could always sleeve additional cables or wires with whats leftover


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
That would be just barely 200ft. I would rather have more than I need, not to mention i could always sleeve additional cables or wires with whats leftover

Stick with something around 200ft I think.


----------



## MijnWraak

here are lengths of the cables of your PSU http://www.overclockersclub.com/revi..._xt_775w/3.htm

Unless I did the math wrong, it comes to around 100 feet max.

edit: I did do the math wrong. hold on lol.

comes to around 125'. *shrug*


----------



## tlxxxsracer

thanks for the link! i think ill get 200ft. lol

thanks for all your help! hopefully i can get an order for my b-day


----------



## DefiedV

If you want to sleeve fan wires/case cables aswell you might want to get around 250'. I blew through 100' easy and I only sleeved half the length of my psu cables which are pretty short to start with. Nothing wrong with ordering more heat shrink than you think you will need, getting perfect lengths is a hard task to achieve. I cut off and redid a lot of shrink ends trying to make them perfect, as it was my first time working with sleeve. If you are in NA ordering oversees twice can waste money and more importantly, time; I think its best to order a good amount. Besides I am sure you will find things that "need" sleeving if you are left with extra.


----------



## wermad

^^^ I blew about +100ft just for the psu: 24pin, 8pin, & 2x 8pin pcie. I bought an extra 200' since i have the other pcie harness' x2, sata x2, molex x2, fan harness x 18, pump harness x2 to sleeve aswell. Im purchasing mine from Fry's aswell as the shrink, ne left overs Im taking them back for a refund







, a little overkill, 300', but ill avoid outstock/backorder issues, i have already had that happend once.


----------



## fshizl

i was referred to post my jobs here... lol


----------



## `br4dz-

What is everyone's method of choice for shrinking heatshrink? I've thought about a heat gun, since using a light is time consuming, a pain, and can burn sleeving/plastic connectors if left on a little too long, but after a little bit of searching, most heat guns I found were around ~$40. Any suggestions?


----------



## Ben the OCer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *`br4dz-*


What is everyone's method of choice for shrinking heatshrink? I've thought about a heat gun, since using a light is time consuming, a pain, and can burn sleeving/plastic connectors if left on a little too long, but after a little bit of searching, most heat guns I found were around ~$40. Any suggestions?


If you have one close, Harbor Freight has some cheap ones. I bought the blue $30, due to its features, but they also have an orange $10 one (it's $20 on the site now but when I went to the store it was $10). Credit for this info goes to DefiedV:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DefiedV*


Ben: If you are near a harbor freight you can pick up a heat-gun for as cheap as $10. I actually used the blue part of the flame of a bic lighter for half of mine and then upgraded to a butane lighter. Butane is better since it doesn't produce that nasty black residue. I would have used the heat-gun but I was too lazy to go the shed(12AM) so I tried a hairdryer and it was way to loud and didn't squat to the shrink.


----------



## Xien16

I use a normal gas lighter for every kind of shrink and it olny costs 30cent


----------



## fshizl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *`br4dz-*


What is everyone's method of choice for shrinking heatshrink? I've thought about a heat gun, since using a light is time consuming, a pain, and can burn sleeving/plastic connectors if left on a little too long, but after a little bit of searching, most heat guns I found were around ~$40. Any suggestions?


I use a torch ligther. Always works for me


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I've got a butane lighter. Works well as it doesn't cover the heatshrink in carbon and it doesn't seem to burn it as easily for some reason.


----------



## oliverw92

I use a soldering iron or a match to singe the ends of the heatshrink and a hot air gun to shrink the heatshrink.


----------



## dpx [R]

xien nice camera, good quality pics


----------



## Xien16

Compact cam rulez


----------



## shnur

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xien16* 
Compact cam rulez
































My girlfriend is jealous









What's with the white dots? LEDs???


----------



## Imrac

Has anyone bought http://cableorganizer.com/nylon-multifilament/ ? Thinking about purchasing it.


----------



## nafljhy

yea, there are a good number of people who use it. i'm also one of them. its great stuff. i like it ALOT more than normal sleeving.


----------



## Imrac

Cool thanks, just ordered 225' 1/8th, hopefully it will be enough for 2ish power supplies. Probably only do 10 or so inches of the 24 pin on both.


----------



## nafljhy

yea, that should be enough for two.


----------



## Xien16

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shnur* 
My girlfriend is jealous









What's with the white dots? LEDs???









Yes - I also used this method here:


----------



## shnur

Amazing work Xien! I see that you pushed modding to another level here


----------



## oliverw92

That's an MDPC incase anyone didn't know of Xien's aawwwwwsome skillz


----------



## MijnWraak

Wish I could sleeve a cold cathode







. Wait... I wonder if it WOULD shine through ... XIEN! Do you have any cathodes? Maybe Sata sleeve would be big enough. hm.


----------



## oliverw92

You can sleeve cathodes, it works quite well!


----------



## MijnWraak

ooh, I might have to try this then







. You wouldn't happen to know of any pictures of any, would you?


----------



## evan_phi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


ooh, I might have to try this then







. You wouldn't happen to know of any pictures of any, would you?


I would also like to see this!


----------



## oliverw92

There has a HAF932 mod a while back where the guy did it. I remember the colour green for some reason! Pretty sure it was in a MOTM, you could check the old MOTM threads.


----------



## Xien16

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
ooh, I might have to try this then







. You wouldn't happen to know of any pictures of any, would you?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *evan_phi* 
I would also like to see this!

There are some german quys who did ir (with pipe around it - SATA sleeve and without pipe - small sleeve)
But I generally do not put such things into my PC... Who had the stupid idea to put a high voltage, electric field producing and magnetizing thing into a PC


----------



## shnur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xien16*


There are some german quys who did ir (with pipe around it - SATA sleeve and without pipe - small sleeve)
But I generally do not put such things into my PC... Who had the stupid idea to put a high voltage, electric field producing and magnetizing thing into a PC










Hey but it looks cool!

Could you post more pics of how you did your LED job, did you just solder two wires, one +3.3 and one ground and let them run through with some resistors?


----------



## Xien16

They all run on 12V








Each strip has three leds in row + one resistor and then this 3-LED-pack is repeatet three times (parallel)


----------



## shnur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xien16*


They all run on 12V








Each strip has three leds in row + one resistor and then this 3-LED-pack is repeatet three times (parallel)











Oh my bad, I forgot you had white LEDs, taking more volts that red/green ones...
So basically you took a stick, soldered one side, then the other, sleeved it and made some little holes for the LED







?

I love your Power cable! Looks REALLY good


----------



## oliverw92

All LED tape runs on 12V. Thats what the resistors are for


----------



## xdanisx

Wow this thread grew!


----------



## Xien16

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


All LED tape runs on 12V. Thats what the resistors are for










Hm... why is it 12V everytimes









I hate that led tapes or strips the "modding" companies sell








They are never built like you need them and sometimes extremely expensive...

I don't know for sure but it would be just idiotic if they use one resistor for each led


----------



## oliverw92

It is 12V because otherwise it would get really confusing - imagine if you were using red and blue to light a table, but you needed precisely different voltages for each one. Much easier to put resistors on the tape and just stick 12v through it









One resistor for each LED would actually be better - at the moment, if one LED out of the 3 per resistor blows, that entire group of three would go out (the LED tape is a load of groups of leds that are in series, connected in parallel)


----------



## Xien16

12V are 12V because of the 12V of the PSU





















this has nothing to do with the color of the light.
I just wanted to show that it would be stupid to build any with 13V or 11V for a PC









LEDs do not die (in the time you want to use them) if they are soldered well and connected with the right resistor








One resistor for each LED means 0,54W loss of power on three resistors (of three parallel LEDs)
One resistor for three LEDs means 0,06W loss of power









Just compare the two numbers and choose the better way of connecting








And no - in my life no LED I soldered or used (in anything) got broken...


----------



## oliverw92

Well LED tape wasn't invented for computer use







It has always been 12v even before people started using it for modding.

What is that fat cable Xien?


----------



## KamuiRSX

I have a question about Heat shrink tubing. I can't seem to be able to find any 3:1 or 4:1 around town from any electrical supply or cabling supply. They all sell 2:1. However, there's one store that sells 25 feet of Heat Shrink for less than $5 in all sizes. Would that work? It's in mm's so I think I'd either be going with 8mm or 6mm or I think 4mm. I think 6mm has the best fit as it comes out as the following:

4mm = 0.1574803149606299 inches
2:1 Ratio
0.07874015748031495 inches when shrunk


----------



## Xien16

How about these???

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Well LED tape wasn't invented for computer use







It has always been 12v even before people started using it for modding.

What is that fat cable Xien?

Maybe it started in cars...

the cable is one of four wires of a 20mmÂ² wire


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xien16* 
How about these???























Too expensive and I'm trying to work with what's closer to me and then work my way out.


----------



## oliverw92

Xien... why such a massive cable! Thats mad!


----------



## Xien16

Just made a joke


----------



## oliverw92

Oh right ok







I was gonna say, sticking a pin on the end of that is useless - if you had such a fat cable to take loads of amps, the pin itself would not take the amount of amps and would burn up


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX*


I have a question about Heat shrink tubing. I can't seem to be able to find any 3:1 or 4:1 around town from any electrical supply or cabling supply. They all sell 2:1. However, there's one store that sells 25 feet of Heat Shrink for less than $5 in all sizes. Would that work? It's in mm's so I think I'd either be going with 8mm or 6mm or I think 4mm. I think 6mm has the best fit as it comes out as the following:

4mm = 0.1574803149606299 inches
2:1 Ratio
0.07874015748031495 inches when shrunk


Anyone have a suggestion or am I good with the above.

Also, FurryLetters is out of 1/8th Clean Cut but he said he should have some more in stock in a week or so. He was 204th in line for a spool which is insane lol.


----------



## lithgroth007

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xien16*


How about these???

Maybe it started in cars...

the cable is one of four wires of a 20mmÂ² wire



















































Im not entirely sure if you used enough solder....MOAR!


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX*


Anyone have a suggestion or am I good with the above.

Also, FurryLetters is out of 1/8th Clean Cut but he said he should have some more in stock next week. He was 204th in line for a spool which is insane lol.


I had a hard time finding 3:1 or 4:1 shrink. Im lucky i have two Fry's electronics stores w/in 50 miles. They have a 2:1 adhesive shrink wrap which works wonders, I think the adhesive will justify the larger ratio, used 3/16 on the 1/8 sleeve. also, they have a "clean cut" sleeve (shrink and clean cut sleeve are from company called J&T). i also contacted Furryletters 2 wks ago and said clean cut 1/8 was in back-order as TechFlex could not keep up w/ demand, sucks still in back-order. if you have a Fry's near by try them, sleeving a little more expensive than Furryletters/Techflex, but its readily avail or you can buy online thru them. here's a shot of my done psu w/ the stuff from Fry's, good luck


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


I had a hard time finding 3:1 or 4:1 shrink. Im lucky i have two Fry's electronics stores w/in 50 miles. They have a 2:1 adhesive shrink wrap which works wonders, I think the adhesive will justify the larger ratio, used 3/16 on the 1/8 sleeve. also, they have a "clean cut" sleeve (shrink and clean cut sleeve are from company called J&T). i also contacted Furryletters 2 wks ago and said clean cut 1/8 was in back-order as TechFlex could not keep up w/ demand, sucks still in back-order. if you have a Fry's try them, sleeving a little more expensive than Furryletters/Techflex, but its readily avail or you can buy online thru them. here's a shot of my done psu w/ the stuff from Fry's, good luck



















I wish but there's no Frys near me and the nearest one is over 300 miles away or something insane like that. But the 2:1 worked great for you though eh...I think I'll stop by harborfreight and grab a 25 foot pack then. Wish they had them in inches instead of mm's but whatever works.

Also, I mis-spoke and corrected it in my first post. I got an email from him earlier today that said he was 204th in line and waiting so in a week or so is when he should have another spool. He was also wanting to know about either using the clean cut or the pet for sleeving computers so everyone should definitely voice their opinion to give him some great stock info







I know I'll probably end up buying 100 ft just to see if I can sleeve my entire OCZ 700w GameXStream PSU with it or just to see how far I can get. I mainly want the 24 pin and 8 pin sleeved first and everything else can come after the fact.


----------



## wermad

ebay has adhesive shrink wrap, again, my recommendation would be to go w/ *adhesive/glue *shrink wrap if your going w/ 2:1. the local two harborfreight have non adhesive (unless if i missed it,







)


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


ebay has adhesive shrink wrap, again, my recommendation would be to go w/ *adhesive/glue *shrink wrap if your going w/ 2:1. the local two harborfreight have non adhesive (unless if i missed it,







)


Yeah non adhesive there...also, non adhesive at Lowes, Home Depot, and Wal-Mart doesn't have heat shrink and neither did Target. There's only one other cabling supply here in Knoxville and Shields only has non-adhesive 2:1 that's insanely over priced. There was another place in downtown but it closed down awhile ago. I wish there were more business here but gotta work with what you're given.


----------



## wermad

non adhesive 2:1 will have a greater chance of loosening. If you can wait try ebay, not too expensive,


----------



## Bully

Not sure if this fits in here, but it's sleeving using what was to hand:

Taking a armoured electrical cable with braided steel and plastic outer, re soldered the cables to the new cable and put the blocks on the end. Also used a 20mm & 25mm flexible conduit for the ends. Ignore the red electrical tape at the join, i was waiting for a y splitter for it, but have since singled the cables from the base so no need for that.

The main power supply to the mobo was stripped down to 3 seperate cables and a simliar design was then done.

All this is in my latest mod project ( link in my sig )




I used some cut down rubber grommets to tidy up the ends, but since have ordered some heat shrink to replace these.



Cheers


----------



## evan_phi

This thread is golden. I love it. I have a Blue-UV sleeving kit on order from eBay, and I can't wait to get it all done!


----------



## KamuiRSX

I hate heat shrink....

I've called every Electrical Supply store in Knoxville and the only ones available are 2:1 ratio in 4 feet segments but at least the cheapest is $1.40 for 4 feet of 3/16 and they have a huge selection of colors. Turns out that Harbor Freight is sold out of the 4mm and 6mm packs at the moment. So........gonna have to wait around for them to get in stock.


----------



## MijnWraak

http://www.mcmaster.com/# has some 3:1/4:1, though their system is kind of hard to find it









http://www.mcmaster.com/#heat-shrink-tubing/=737mxq

I found "clear" shrink that's 4:1 and 1/4". I wonder how that would look







Part Number: 75665K72


----------



## Xien16

Why don't you guys just buy the ones with the best quality + perfect developed for sleeve + really cheap if you think about the time it needs to find 1:4...


----------



## [Teh Root]

What is the exact benefits of sleeving like that, doesn't that reduce and mess with the airflow in the case?


----------



## wermad

2:1 adhesive has worked great for, just need to give a few seconds to cool or it will pull off while adhesive is still hot. So far, no loose sleeves, as long as you have enough contact w/ the wire-shield. after trial and error, I cut my sleve 1/2" less and use 1/2" shrink pieces on both ends (1/4" split at each end to cover both sleeve and wire). This was not the case w/ my first sleeving experience, used cheap see thru sleeve and 2:1 regular shrink, pulled off w/ slightest tug. Again, ebay has several sellers w/ 4:1, 3:1, and adhesive shrink, its about $5-7usd for around 4'. Since I have a Fry's ~5 miles away, and another ~40, I just buy it there, its $2.50 for 4x 6" pieces (2ft) 2:1 adhesive shrink


----------



## Xien16

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[Teh Root]* 
What is the exact benefits of sleeving like that, doesn't that reduce and mess with the airflow in the case?

If you sleeve every single cable - 100% visual and design benefit








Therefore I don't understand why some take cheap quality...

Non-Sleeved cables also look good:



















But sleeved they will even look better


----------



## Imrac

I got to ask, where do you find that mesh?


----------



## Xien16

The last few I got from a german store (AC ryan mesh) but everywhere else it is sold out


----------



## fshizl




----------



## `br4dz-

Xien16, what is that pink light? Someone wants me to build them a computer with a pink theme as well, just I'm hard pressed finding anything "pink". Also, can we see more pictures of that pink project?


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:



Originally Posted by *`br4dz-*


Xien16, what is that pink light? Someone wants me to build them a computer with a pink theme as well, just I'm hard pressed finding anything "pink". Also, can we see more pictures of that pink project?










either pink LEDs in some plexiglass or EL panel under plexi. either works well. and by plexiglass i mean all forms of acrylics and the likes


----------



## VZif

Here's mine (or at least my most recent)


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
http://www.mcmaster.com/# has some 3:1/4:1, though their system is kind of hard to find it









http://www.mcmaster.com/#heat-shrink-tubing/=737mxq

I found "clear" shrink that's 4:1 and 1/4". I wonder how that would look







Part Number: 75665K72

Wow...that's expensive stuff.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xien16* 
Why don't you guys just buy the ones with the best quality + perfect developed for sleeve + really cheap if you think about the time it needs to find 1:4...

If you're trying to say buy from MDPC, tell him to drop his prices and then we'll talk







. Especially considering the only one who will be looking at my sleeving job for the most part is me, wasting money on buying his heat shrink is a bit insane. Besides, I guess I'll just wait for the 4mm to come back in stock at Harbor Freight.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[Teh Root]* 
What is the exact benefits of sleeving like that, doesn't that reduce and mess with the airflow in the case?

Well it does reduce clutter and help air flow but also good cable management does that as well. The big reason I'm doing it is because with the way OCZ sleeved my PSU, it's hard to get it behind the backplate because it's so fat. This sleeving will make it easier.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
2:1 adhesive has worked great for, just need to give a few seconds to cool or it will pull off while adhesive is still hot. So far, no loose sleeves, as long as you have enough contact w/ the wire-shield. after trial and error, I cut my sleve 1/2" less and use 1/2" shrink pieces on both ends (1/4" split at each end to cover both sleeve and wire). This was not the case w/ my first sleeving experience, used cheap see thru sleeve and 2:1 regular shrink, pulled off w/ slightest tug. Again, ebay has several sellers w/ 4:1, 3:1, and adhesive shrink, its about $5-7usd for around 4'. Since I have a Fry's ~5 miles away, and another ~40, I just buy it there, its $2.50 for 4x 6" pieces (2ft) 2:1 adhesive shrink

Lucky you...I don't have that luxury


----------



## Xien16

Quote:



Originally Posted by *da tick 07*


either pink LEDs in some plexiglass or EL panel under plexi. either works well. and by plexiglass i mean all forms of acrylics and the likes


Pink leds behind plexiglas








EL panels also need that high voltage source which coud destroy the PC









Quote:



Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX*


If you're trying to say buy from MDPC, tell him to drop his prices and then we'll talk







. Especially considering the only one who will be looking at my sleeving job for the most part is me, wasting money on buying his heat shrink is a bit insane. Besides, I guess I'll just wait for the 4mm to come back in stock at Harbor Freight.


That is your decision









Quote:



Originally Posted by *`br4dz-*


Xien16, what is that pink light? Someone wants me to build them a computer with a pink theme as well, just I'm hard pressed finding anything "pink". Also, can we see more pictures of that pink project?










"someone wants you to do something with pink for them"






















Be honest - you want it for yourself


----------



## shnur

Xien16, you're amazing.
/thread


----------



## s_stahl02

This is my second attempt at sleeving. i really hated how my first try turned out so i redid it last night. took me about 3 hours. I used sleeving bought at my local Fry's electronic store. i have worked with mdpc-x before and the stuff at fry's is just as good and very affordable. a 20ft. roll is $6.99. i was able to do both pci-e cables with one package. I do use mdpc-x heatshrink though. good heatshrink is a must!


----------



## shnur

Good work s_stahl02!
Really nice second shot


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX*


If you're trying to say buy from MDPC, tell him to drop his prices and then we'll talk







. Especially considering the only one who will be looking at my sleeving job for the most part is me, wasting money on buying his heat shrink is a bit insane. Besides, I guess I'll just wait for the 4mm to come back in stock at Harbor Freight.


To be honest, his prices aren't that bad when you actually consider the quality of his heatshrink. I've used the stuff from ebay and found it to be quite solid and difficult to manipulate. The stuff that Nils sells is un-matched in quality. If you don't care so much for the quality, then by all means anything else will work fine. Nils stuff truly is the best you can buy though and is worth every cent.


----------



## Ben the OCer

How do you guys sleeve the molex power cables on your power supply? Taking off the plastic connector is super easy with the tool. But from the looks of it, to sleeve the middle daisy chain molex connectors you would have to un-crimp the cable to be able to sleeve it. What would you guys recommend? If un-crimping is needed where would I get the needed tool for un-crimping and re-crimping?


----------



## shnur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ben the OCer*


How do you guys sleeve the molex power cables on your power supply? Taking off the plastic connector is super easy with the tool. But from the looks of it, to sleeve the middle daisy chain molex connectors you would have to un-crimp the cable to be able to sleeve it. What would you guys recommend? If un-crimping is needed where would I get the needed tool for un-crimping and re-crimping?


I've bent them and put the sleeve on when the connector is flat on the wire, Nils' stuff allows some spacing


----------



## Ben the OCer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shnur* 
I've bent them and put the sleeve on when the connector is flat on the wire, Nils' stuff allows some spacing









I thought about that but I don't know if that will work with the sleeving from tK FuRY. That's not at all a knock by the way, that sleeving is amazing and very high quality, I just don't think it has a enough play for this. I'll give it a shot though. I finished the PCI-E 8/6-pin power cable and am almost done with the SATA power cable.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ben the OCer* 
I thought about that but I don't know if that will work with the sleeving from tK FuRY. That's not at all a knock by the way, that sleeving is amazing and very high quality, I just don't think it has a enough play for this. I'll give it a shot though. I finished the PCI-E 8/6-pin power cable and am almost done with the SATA power cable.

pictures please!

And bah, I really need to stop procrastinating and finish up my hx650!


----------



## Ben the OCer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
pictures please!

And bah, I really need to stop procrastinating and finish up my hx650!

I'll try and get some up when I finish the SATA cable.


----------



## Xien16

The biggest problem with some other shrinks and sleeves (not from MDPC-X) is that they aren't made for the cables we have to sleeve.
Nils developes his sleeves and shrinks (and all the other stuff) especially for the PC-cables we have to sleeve.

The shrink might be cheaper in some other stores but as I said before:
- You have to find the perfect shrink first and this could take weeks (expensive time)
- You have to buy your stuff at two or even more shops
- You don't need that much heatshrink at all (I need less then 0.7m per 10m Sleeve







)
- Nils's sleeves are the cheapest AND best I know so you can save time, shipment money and get the best quality...

But you are free to develop everything again by your own


----------



## DefiedV

I agree with Xien. I ordered from ebay / wirecare / local and I still had trouble with the shrink. Anything less that 4-1 reg or 3-1 gluelined is a waste of your time, the cables will pull out on the slightest bend (leaving you to pull your hair out). All in all I spent near $60 for shrink / 140' of clean cut sleeving with everything arriving at diff times. I tried to keep the cost low considering my psu, but multiple orders and shipping got me in the end. I also had an anoying time figuring out the right size shrink to get, everyone said 1/8th shrink fits over 1/8th cables just fine. When in fact I had to painstakingly stretch each peice of shrink because clean cut is more like 3/16".

MDPC-X- isn't really that more expensive when all things are compared, and you get a personalized experience. And all of his shrink is properly sized to the sleeving and available in matching colors. My next psu will def be treated with sleeving from Nils.

I think the biggest problem with piecing together your own kit is the availability/price of good heatshrink. Good/proper heat shrink costs a lot more than per foot that I had anticipated. Unless of course you like $10 surcharges and handling fees or ordering 100ft.


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DefiedV*


I agree with Xien. I ordered from ebay / wirecare / local and I still had trouble with the shrink. Anything less that 4-1 reg or 3-1 gluelined is a waste of your time, the cables will pull out on the slightest bend (leaving you to pull your hair out). All in all I spent near $60 for shrink / 140' of clean cut sleeving with everything arriving at diff times. I tried to keep the cost low considering my psu, but multiple orders and shipping got me in the end. I also had an anoying time figuring out the right size shrink to get, everyone said 1/8th shrink fits over 1/8th cables just fine. When in fact I had to painstakingly stretch each peice of shrink because clean cut is more like 3/16".

MDPC-X- isn't really that more expensive when all things are compared, and you get a personalized experience. And all of his shrink is properly sized to the sleeving and available in matching colors. My next psu will def be treated with sleeving from Nils.

I think the biggest problem with piecing together your own kit is the availability/price of good heatshrink. Good/proper heat shrink costs a lot more than per foot that I had anticipated. Unless of course you like $10 surcharges and handling fees or ordering 100ft.


Well I was looking on MCMaster.com like the other guy posted above and was thinking about grabbing some of the 4:1 there...just not sure on how much considering it's only sold in 4 foot increments. Meh I just don't know...I guess I'll play around with some 2:1 and see how it goes and then move on from there.


----------



## Xraven771

Some sleaving going to go on my pc .. just waiting for some black heatshrink


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xraven771*


Some sleaving going to go on my pc .. just waiting for some black heatshrink










FurryLetters PET?


----------



## godofdeath

anyone ordering from nils and can get me the crimping tool while they're at it


----------



## Ben the OCer

So far I have the PCI-E, SATA, and GPU fan connectors sleeved. Here are the pictures as promised.

This is what the SATA cable looked like before I sleeved it.









This is what it looked like afterward. I also moved the connectors so there won't be any slack when it's installed in my system. 









Here are the two complete cables.









Here is a closeup of both cables. If you are wondering, the black cloth like tape I put over the heatshrink came with the PSU and was holding on the stock sleeving. So I made good use of it. It cleans it up real nice and hides any mistakes I made with the evenness of the heatshrink.









I also sleeved the fan cable of my Zalman VF900-Cu that cools my Asus HD4850.

















Here are the tools, sleeving, and heatshrink I used.









Here is the heat gun I got from Harbor Freight. I went for the $30 one over the $10 one because of the array of temperature settings and better design for standing up right.









Here it is installed in my system. As you can see the connector is perfectly spaced. The third connector is for a future second drive for RAID 0, also perfectly spaced for a drive in the fourth hard drive slot.


----------



## KamuiRSX

So Ben, did you just use 1 huge piece of shrink instead of small individuals? Nice job though...I was thinking about getting the $7 heat gun from Harbor Freight as well but still in the wind on that.


----------



## Ben the OCer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX*


So Ben, did you just use 1 huge piece of shrink instead of small individuals? Nice job though...I was thinking about getting the $7 heat gun from Harbor Freight as well but still in the wind on that.


No, that is actually tape to hide the heatshrink. Each cable has it's own heatshrink to hold on the sleeving. That tape came with the PSU and was holding on the stock sleeving, so I reused it. Cleans it up pretty nice and matches the sleeving pretty good (it is kind of cloth like on the top).

So far I like my heat gun. The $10 heat gun for $7 with coupon is a great deal. Like I said, I went for the $30 one for the multiple temperature settings and better design for standing up right.


----------



## pcnuttie

wow you guys really do use heat guns? I use a dryer, profit!


----------



## godofdeath

whats the sleeving you used?


----------



## pcnuttie

I never got anything from MPC and i use TechFlex sleeves. I still like MPC but i cannot understand these Euro money lol. I plan in the future to get green,blue,red cuz they look very sleek and they are UV. I would like to sleeve each wire but i'm fine for now. I will when summer starts.


----------



## Ben the OCer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
whats the sleeving you used?

I bought the sleeving and heatshrink from tK FuRY: link. It's really great stuff and looks absolutely amazing.


----------



## shnur

Good job Ben on that sleeve! I like your reasons for the 30$ heat gun "it has the ability to stand upwards" haha

I'm hold my SATA cable sleevings for that specific reason: I want them perfectly spaced and since I don't know yet which system my sleeved PSU will go in


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


I never got anything from MPC and i use TechFlex sleeves. I still like MPC but i cannot understand these Euro money lol. I plan in the future to get green,blue,red cuz they look very sleek and they are UV. I would like to sleeve each wire but i'm fine for now. I will when summer starts.


It is MDPC, not MPC. Also what is confusing about Euros lmao


----------



## IntelLover

Furryletters stopped selling 1/8th sleeving!!!!!!! Just when I wanted to sleeve my PSU, when school was out.


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IntelLover*


Furryletters stopped selling 1/8th sleeving!!!!!!! Just when I wanted to sleeve my PSU, when school was out.


He didn't stop, he ran out...he said he was 204th in line for another spool. His best bet is that hopefully in a week or so, he'll have another roll to sell. I hope he takes my advice and puts up a thread on the for sale section though







Would be awesome.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX*


He didn't stop, he ran out...he said he was 204th in line for another spool. His best bet is that hopefully in a week or so, he'll have another roll to sell. I hope he takes my advice and puts up a thread on the for sale section though







Would be awesome.


I bet he's made a tonne of money out of us cable enthusiasts


----------



## IntelLover

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


I bet he's made a tonne of money out of us cable enthusiasts










Good to know. He SHOULD!!! He could make a lot of money. If he gets enough interest here on OCN selling dirt cheap sleeveing he could order custom colored cables.


----------



## godofdeath

tk furry is not the furry letters guy on ebay right?


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
tk furry is not the furry letters guy on ebay right?

Correct, they are different people.

Also, it's "tK fury", not furry


----------



## tK FuRY

Hmmm, I haven't been in this thread in quite some time.

Lol @MijnWraak, you don't know how many times (countless forums) someone has called me "tK Furrrrry" ... I've learned to just let it slide since I know what they're talking about.


----------



## godofdeath

1/4 is the size for clean cut?


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
1/4 is the size for clean cut?

Well if you're doing single sleeving like the rest of the thread, you'll have to wait until he gets more 1/8th in stock.


----------



## ExperimentX

My first cable... don't know why I started my own thread lol


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX* 
Well if you're doing single sleeving like the rest of the thread, you'll have to wait until he gets more 1/8th in stock.

ooo so its 1/8 for each wire


----------



## nzgroller

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
ooo so its 1/8 for each wire

yep, that's right


----------



## KamuiRSX

Have any of you guys sleeved a 700w OCZ GameXStream PSU? I'm wanting to know how much sleeving to grab?


----------



## pcnuttie

Normally i wondered how much sleeves do we need to sleeve the whole power supply?


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ExperimentX* 
My first cable... don't know why I started my own thread lol










Nice sleeving. But here are some tips. Cut sleeving and heat shrink all the same distance. The way i do it is i sleeve a cable and put a needle were i want it to end... Then slide it out and cut it at the needle. Then use that length for all the other cables that wire. So i cut all the sleeving for the remaining wires. When i put the sleeving on the wires I measure the distance from the pin to were i stop and place it all the same...

For the heatshrink I cut them all the same and again measure the distance..

Just friendly advice...


----------



## godofdeath

my advice just buy extensions and sleeve those instead


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
my advice just buy extensions and sleeve those instead

extensions are for wimps!









Plus, it's harder to get the sleeve completely stretched AND be equi-distant from the connector on each cable.


----------



## shnur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX*


Have any of you guys sleeved a 700w OCZ GameXStream PSU? I'm wanting to know how much sleeving to grab?


I sleeved a 400W OCZ one and it took me the whole "starter pack" from MDPC, I'd say you'd need a bit less than twice as much as there is in the kit.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Normally i wondered how much sleeves do we need to sleeve the whole power supply?


Depends how long are your cables, how much you have.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


extensions are for wimps!









Plus, it's harder to get the sleeve completely stretched AND be equi-distant from the connector on each cable.


its also for the cheap lol


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


its also for the cheap lol


extensions cost a pretty penny my friend


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


extensions cost a pretty penny my friend










if you get the custom sleeved they are insane but NZXT came out with some sleeved extensions that are CHEAPER than unsleeved =O


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *da tick 07* 
if you get the custom sleeved they are insane but NZXT came out with some sleeved extensions that are CHEAPER than unsleeved =O

nzxt extension is supposedly pretty short


----------



## SmasherBasher

I'm using a NZXT extension for mine. It's right at 12" long like every other one out there.


----------



## MijnWraak

They're made in China by underwaged children workers and use 5 cent materials. Very low quality. It just looks decent because theyre black wires and you cant see the sleeve!


----------



## shnur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


They're made in China by underwaged children workers and use 5 cent materials. Very low quality. It just looks decent because theyre black wires and you cant see the sleeve!


Sorry but your bashing post made me laugh


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*


I sleeved a 400W OCZ one and it took me the whole "starter pack" from MDPC, I'd say you'd need a bit less than twice as much as there is in the kit.

Depends how long are your cables, how much you have.


Thx


----------



## Imrac

Look what I found by the door!


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Imrac*


Look what I found by the door!


Niceness...225 feet of nylon sleeving?

So it's not expandable?


----------



## Imrac

Actually its NylonÂ® Multifilament Braided Sleeving. Really great stuff from what I can tell. Only cost 40 dollars shipped. Its not as shinny as techflex and doesn't expand, but it has a more cloth feel, which I dig =)


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Imrac*


Actually its NylonÂ® Multifilament Braided Sleeving. Really great stuff from what I can tell. Only cost 40 dollars shipped. Its not as shinny as techflex and doesn't expand, but it has a more cloth feel, which I dig =)


Yeah I just saw that when I zoomed into the 2nd pic...


----------



## Shane1244

So, It much like the drawstrings on a hoodie?


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


So, It much like the drawstrings on a hoodie?


Pretty much....but i'd guess more like shoestrings...hollow shoe strings


----------



## Ben the OCer

I finally finished the 24-pin connector. I'll post up pictures of the completed system when I am fully complete. Until then here are some pictures of my progress on the 24-pin connector:

In the two pictures below I almost have all the pins taken out. I used tape to protect the the pins that are still in. The flanges that hold the pin in can scratch the wire protector otherwise. My pin removal tool was actually two wide to fit. So I had to go back to the tried and true dual staple method.


















In the two pictures below I have finished taking all the pins out.


















Here I had put tape over the pins so I could take off the stock sleeving without damaging it. I wanted to save it in case I had a use for it in the future.









This picture is to show you the flanges on the pin.









Here I have part of it done. The OCZ PSU has a 20+4pin setup (for backwards compatibility). I have the 4-pin connector finished and 8-pins of the 20-pin connector finished. 









Here it is all finished. It still has the tape on it that I used so I knew were each pin was to be placed. You can also see the finished 8-pin auxiliary motherboard power connector on the right. 









I was actually able to do it all without opening the power supply. As you can see it worked out pretty good.









First, I cut a 1/2 inch of heatshrink that I put over the cable before reinserting it into the connector. The purpose of this was so the heatshrink over the sleeving would be tighter and wouldn't move as much, and it also made it so you couldn't see any of the colored cables at all. Then I cut another 1/2 inch of heatshrink that actually held on the sleeving. I put this over the cable, inserted it into the connector, and then shrunk it with my heat gun. This made it much easier to make them all mostly even.


----------



## shnur

Looks good! Good luck on finishing that


----------



## Imrac

Great job so far!! I might have to pick up a heat gun to make my life easy. Last time I just used lighter and the heat shrink never heated evenly. I wanna look into a cheap hot knife too, After playing around with some test pieces of the nylon, I found either cutting with a razor blade (took a while) and then heat the end over gas stove for 1 second did a good job, but dolled my razor blade really quickly, within 10 cuts it was useless. I also tried heating the razor blade up with the stove and cutting, that seemed ok, but melted the end a little too much and was difficult to pass cables through.

I might dink around with it some more and find a happy medium.


----------



## godofdeath

how you sleeve a sata thats round?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16812123288


----------



## KZISME

Is it worth it to sleeve the PSU so like un-sleeve it then re-sleeve


----------



## Imrac

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KZISME* 
Is it worth it to sleeve the PSU so like un-sleeve it then re-sleeve

That's in the eye of the beholder. My Corsair power supply comes pre-sleeved, but I think it doesn't look very good. If your power Supply bugs you, then I would say yes, other wise you won't see any airflow gains.

However, if you want to route your cables behind your motherboard and its rather cramped back there, You can sleeve each individual wire. That way the "bunch" of wires can be flattened.


----------



## shnur

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
how you sleeve a sata thats round?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16812123288

It's not sleeving, it's a different cable.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KZISME* 
Is it worth it to sleeve the PSU so like un-sleeve it then re-sleeve

From the bulky one to the nice and pretty? Yes


----------



## KZISME

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Imrac* 
That's in the eye of the beholder. My Corsair power supply comes pre-sleeved, but I think it doesn't look very good. If your power Supply bugs you, then I would say yes, other wise you won't see any airflow gains.

However, if you want to route your cables behind your motherboard and its rather cramped back there, You can sleeve each individual wire. That way the "bunch" of wires can be flattened.

I read the first part of the thread but is it extremely time consuming or no


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shnur* 
It's not sleeving, it's a different cable.

huh??


----------



## Imrac

It is rather time consuming to sleeve an entire PSU. I would say 4-6 hours if it is your first time, maybe faster if you have the correct tools. It's a nice sense of accomplishment.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KZISME*


I read the first part of the thread but is it extremely time consuming or no


it depends on what you are sleeving
if the cables are short, it'll be quicker
plus you can buy some stuff that are sleeved


----------



## KZISME

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


it depends on what you are sleeving
if the cables are short, it'll be quicker
plus you can buy some stuff that are sleeved


It would most likley be be a few fans first then on to the psu


----------



## Imrac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KZISME*


It would most likley be be a few fans first then on to the psu


Fans are very simple, and wires on the PSU with only 1 connector (EI, 4 or 8pin, 24pin PCI-E) are relatively easy. Molex are more complicated and difficult because you have to slide the sleeving over pins in the middle of the wire.

You have to bend the connector over onto the wire, tape it down, then slide the sleeving over. If you are using nylon multifiliment I am not sure its possible as it doesn't expand very much.


----------



## KamuiRSX

Hey guys...here's some updated info of places selling Techflex Clean Cut.

Monoprice is selling it or at least has it listed on their page for less than $20 for 100 feet of 1/8th. Unfortunately, it's not in stock at the moment so no way to get a shipping quote.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...05&cp_id=10522

ElectricalHub.com also has them for the same price as FurryLetters at $5 for 25 feet but the shipping kills it for me at least...flat rate of $10.50

http://www.electricalhub.com/techflex/clean-cut

Here's a Canadian site but theirs is still a bit expensive at $0.46CA per foot

http://audiyo.com/product_desc2.php?...cat=7&cat2=172

This one looks like it might just be slightly cheaper than FurryLetters as well. $23.79 shipped for 100 feet of 1/8th Clean Cut...need to check resellerratings though as I've never heard of this site. Edit: Well they have a damn good rating...http://www.resellerratings.com/store/DrillSpot

http://www.drillspot.com/products/55...dable_sleeving

Here it is at Grainger.com for 100 feet at $23.79 but not sure on shipping for them...would be great with a $5 off coupon code and free shipping though









http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2RLN7?Pid=search

For the UK foks, 0.76EU per meter here ex VAT

http://www.hypex.co.uk/store/home.php?cat=358


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

thought I'd post my GPU power cables once again


----------



## fshizl

cable management in Mini ITX build...









and restrained lol...


----------



## oliverw92

Very very nice job in such a small case!


----------



## Tator Tot

I love Fshizl's build. It's dreamy


----------



## KamuiRSX

OMG Guys I have fantastic news...FurryLetters just emailed me the following:

Quote:



let your buddies know that , If they deal with me direct, I will discount my prices -- on all my stuff. payment through paypal. they can call me or email me. for rush orders call.. 615 587 2662. thanks BARRY ([email protected])

- furryletters


I sent a reply a few minutes ago to find out how much of a discount.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX*


OMG Guys I have fantastic news...FurryLetters just emailed me the following:

I sent a reply a few minutes ago to find out how much of a discount.


I've been getting discounts for a while now. I only order my sleeving from him and i don't go through ebay.


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


I've been getting discounts for a while now. I only order my sleeving from him and i don't go through ebay.


Lucky you







I'm glad he said this to me before I ordered...still said he's out of stock on the 1/8th but I can wait


----------



## spiderm0nkey

That's great news! Thanks for sharing


----------



## nafljhy

nice fshizl! though in retrospect, i should've asked if you wanted the ODD bay thing anodized too.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nafljhy* 
nice fshizl! though in retrospect, i should've asked if you wanted the ODD bay thing anodized too.









lol. nah, it was cool... otherwise i would have needed to ship it to you... next friday i go to my dads work again to have the new motherboard tray put in...

ill probably find out about anodizing that ODD tray.... so that way i can do it all at once...

im just glad i got this thing running, im sad about my computer... my ssd died... corsair is in the rounds of getting me a new one...


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


how you sleeve a sata cable thats round?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16812123288


anyone answer that?
mdpc-x are for flat ones so those won't work i take it


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
anyone answer that?
mdpc-x are for flat ones so those won't work i take it

Some of Nils' USB sleeve might be the way to go. It is a little bigger than the small sleeve he sells so it is more likely to fit over the connector. The flat sata sleeve would go over it all but it could look strange. I used the sata sleeve on my front I/O panel USB cable which is round and it worked out fine.


----------



## MacG32

Soon after the rest of my tools for sleeving arrive, I'll have some shots to contribute.


----------



## Bully

Posted here before, but changed my cables somewhat.

They are now heatshrinked at the ends and sprayed copper to go with the rest of the project theme.






Any black heatshrink is now a copper colour, just forgot to take pics of everything


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bully* 
Posted here before, but changed my cables somewhat.

They are now heatshrinked at the ends and sprayed copper to go with the rest of the project theme.



Any black heatshrink is now a copper colour, just forgot to take pics of everything









how many wires fit through there... doesnt look like that really expands lol..


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
how many wires fit through there... doesnt look like that really expands lol..

8?

24/3=8!


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
8?

24/3=8!










im talking max not just what he did lol


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


im talking max not just what he did lol


it looks pretty stretched at the connectors xD


----------



## Bully

I used a SY flex cable ( 6+1 core ) and was just getting 8 cables each down it with it taped up and a little perserverence. (sp?).

I can get 8+1 core but overall radius will be too much on the main 24 plug to fit 3 across, this is just about right, the 4+1 core was too small.

The original idea with the PCIe cable was to utilise the cables inside and solder/fix new plugs on each end and have it as a extension, but that proved difficult as the SY flex cable is pretty thick.

This result wasn't easy at all, took awhile to do all of it ( about the 3rd time, so getting used to it ) and i had to tape up the end of the standard cables before sleeving just incase any rogue steel braid was poking out.

Early on in the mod/project i went for a different finish, but it wasn't visually/pratical enough ( the flexible conduit didn't sit right )



Since the whole base of the mod/project has changed, it has taken on a different approach using the Sy flex for sleeving.


----------



## Ben the OCer

After almost a good week of work I finally finished sleeving my sig rig.


----------



## Imrac

Has anyone used Nylon with PCI-E 6+2? I am unable to slide the sleeve over the 2nd pin on the 2 ground wires. I would just like to hear some suggestions. I have either though of cutting the +2 off since I don't use them currently, or try and find some ATX pins and cut it off and re-crimp.


----------



## Xien16

Does anybody know where I can get sleeves for 15 cent per foot?
But the quality hast to be perfect


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xien16* 
Does anybody know where I can get sleeves for 15 cent per foot?
But the quality hast to be perfect









Not that cheap...FurryLetters has it for $0.17 a foot not including shipping for Techflex Clean Cut.


----------



## j0n3z3y

Im not certain the name of the manufacturer(it's not Techflex). I ordered some a while back and it is full coverage sleeve similar to Techflex Clean Cut or MDPC but I've not seen a royal blue (uv reactive) before in anyones product lines. It is an excellent product though. Starting at $.19 per ft.

http://www.koolertek.com/computer-pa...eving-c195.htm


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *j0n3z3y*


Im not certain the name of the manufacturer(it's not Techflex). I ordered some a while back and it is full coverage sleeve similar to Techflex Clean Cut or MDPC but I've not seen a royal blue (uv reactive) before in anyones product lines. It is an excellent product though. Starting at $.19 per ft.

http://www.koolertek.com/computer-pa...eving-c195.htm


Do you have any close up pictures? Is it monofilament or multifilament? If multi, how many filaments in each strand?


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xien16* 
Does anybody know where I can get sleeves for 15 cent per foot?
But the quality hast to be perfect









I DO I DO!









MDPC-X family pack is available to anyone, and the quality is greater than perfect! 200 meters of black or white small sleeve, for the unbeatable price of 15 cents/ft!

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/family-packs.htm

;D

(you will need to buy heatshrink seperately, however)


----------



## oliverw92

Lol i love you Xien









Oh and MijnWraak, read the MDPC page again - includes 20m of 4:1 small heatshrink


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Lol i love you Xien









Oh and MijnWraak, read the MDPC page again - includes 20m of 4:1 small heatshrink









:O woah! haha. could have sworn it didnt  very nice.

(that's what I get for posting right when I wake up!)


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


I DO I DO!









MDPC-X family pack is available to anyone, and the quality is greater than perfect! 200 meters of black or white small sleeve, for the unbeatable price of 15 cents/ft!

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/family-packs.htm

;D

(you will need to buy heatshrink seperately, however)


Wow that's almost $200 US...granted you're getting over 600 feet but wow.


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX*


Wow that's almost $200 US...granted you're getting over 600 feet but wow.


log in an itll be cheaper but then you have to add in shipping so it brings it right back up


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *da tick 07*


log in an itll be cheaper but then you have to add in shipping so it brings it right back up


$136.47 USD currently for the sleeving
$36.87 USD currently for the shipping

$173.34 total for 656 feet of sleeving and 6x feet of HS


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX*


$136.47 USD currently for the sleeving
$36.87 USD currently for the shipping

$173.34 total for 656 feet of sleeving and 6x feet of HS


which will do about 3-4 psu's, more if you only do permanent on modular psu's.


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX*


$136.47 USD currently for the sleeving
$36.87 USD currently for the shipping

$173.34 total for 656 feet of sleeving and 6x feet of HS


I was going to order about $200 worth of sleeving and heatshrink from there and then the shipping ended up being $50+ so I said mehh and didn't. Already ordered from there twice and man shipping takes forever from overseas.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *da tick 07*


I was going to order about $200 worth of sleeving and heatshrink from there and then the shipping ended up being $50+ so I said mehh and didn't. Already ordered from there twice and man shipping takes forever from overseas.


mine took under a week even with the backlog from the volcano









weird.


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


mine took under a week even with the backlog from the volcano









weird.


around 2 weeks for me both times. guess customs doesnt like me -_-. they ship out quick tho


----------



## j0n3z3y

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX* 
Do you have any close up pictures? Is it monofilament or multifilament? If multi, how many filaments in each strand?

Multifilament. In 1/8" it is 3 filaments per strand. Im charging my camera battery now. Sorry it took so long to get back w/ you. Check the Super Pi 1Mb thread and you'll see why







It appears I just claimed #2 spot for AMD cpu's


----------



## Dr.Zyklon

decided to sleeve the fans in my RV01 with some red furryletters sleeving, turned out alright i think.


----------



## da tick 07

macro


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *j0n3z3y*


Multifilament. In 1/8" it is 3 filaments per strand. Im charging my camera battery now. Sorry it took so long to get back w/ you. Check the Super Pi 1Mb thread and you'll see why







It appears I just claimed #2 spot for AMD cpu's










Nice. I'll be checking..if it's as good quality as you say, I may have to get some...I want purple







It would only cost me $25.15 shipped for 100 feet or purple which isn't bad at all.


----------



## Yogi

I just read through this entire thread and now my head hurts.

Gunna tear apart my case, get some wc, and sleeve some cables this summer








Thinkin about swappin my PSU for a 750/850HX too.


----------



## KamuiRSX

Okay I just got a reply back about the sleeving you posted earlier and you're right...it is multifilament. 3 filaments per strand in each braid.

Straight from Koolertek










http://www.koolertek.com/computer-pa...eving-c195.htm

Also, here are some coupon codes for Koolertek.

OVERCLOCK - 5% off

http://www.resellerratings.com/store/KoolerTek - Perfect 10/10 but only 9 reviews so far.

Also, according to Nathan Clay, Director of Operations, here's some info about when the sale will end:

Quote:

I've actually not decided just yet, but I'd say it will probably be going the rest of this week.

Just let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks,

-Nathan


----------



## ff02

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX* 
Okay I just got a reply back about the sleeving you posted earlier and you're right...it is multifilament. 3 filaments per strand in each braid.

Straight from Koolertek










http://www.koolertek.com/computer-pa...eving-c195.htm

Also, here are some coupon codes for Koolertek.

OVERCLOCK - 5% off

http://www.resellerratings.com/store/KoolerTek - Perfect 10/10 but only 9 reviews so far.

Also, according to Nathan Clay, Director of Operations, here's some info about when the sale will end:

I believe this is still considered monofilament. I won't claim to know everything about sleeving, but all of the monofilament stuff I've messed with and received mfg samples of has been about the same composition, with minor variances in the thickness of each filament. For example, at this link you can see a ton of monofilament stuff, and its running the 3 filament per strand configuration:

http://www.altatechinc.com/fullproductline.html

Lower on the page, you'll see a multifilament product, which looks identical to a multi sample I got from another mfg. The multi stuff is almost totally non-transparent (no gaps, especially in wire bends), but with the downside of being so tightly braided that its almost completely non-expandable. However, its some of the nicest sleeving to look at....looks almost like cotton sleeving and feels about as soft. Reminds me a lot of the sleeving on a speaker wire in an old Silverface Fender Champ amplifier I used to have. Very nice stuff, just not as easy to work with. I'm still debating on whether or not we should start carrying it. The price I've sourced would be great, as cheap as the stuff we currently have, but I can only get it in black and white at that price, and I wonder about market demand, especially since we'd be buying pretty large spools of the stuff.

As far as the sleeving we offer, I think its a good product which will suit most people. Even after the sale is over, we will probably be offering it at an everyday price that is about as low.

Also, though we don't have a ton of reseller ratings, please keep in mind we've only been online since December. While we could do what a lot of companies do and post reviews for ourselves or offer discounts (bribes) for people to leave us feedback, that's just not how I like to run things. We're a small family operated business that would prefer to operate honestly and ethically, and so far that is working for us.

-Nathan from Koolertek


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ff02* 
I believe this is still considered monofilament. I won't claim to know everything about sleeving, but all of the monofilament stuff I've messed with and received mfg samples of has been about the same composition, with minor variances in the thickness of each filament. For example, at this link you can see a ton of monofilament stuff, and its running the 3 filament per strand configuration:

http://www.altatechinc.com/fullproductline.html

Lower on the page, you'll see a multifilament product, which looks identical to a multi sample I got from another mfg. The multi stuff is almost totally non-transparent (no gaps, especially in wire bends), but with the downside of being so tightly braided that its almost completely non-expandable. However, its some of the nicest sleeving to look at....looks almost like cotton sleeving and feels about as soft. Reminds me a lot of the sleeving on a speaker wire in an old Silverface Fender Champ amplifier I used to have. Very nice stuff, just not as easy to work with. I'm still debating on whether or not we should start carrying it. The price I've sourced would be great, as cheap as the stuff we currently have, but I can only get it in black and white at that price, and I wonder about market demand, especially since we'd be buying pretty large spools of the stuff.

As far as the sleeving we offer, I think its a good product which will suit most people. Even after the sale is over, we will probably be offering it at an everyday price that is about as low.

Also, though we don't have a ton of reseller ratings, please keep in mind we've only been online since December. While we could do what a lot of companies do and post reviews for ourselves or offer discounts (bribes) for people to leave us feedback, that's just not how I like to run things. We're a small family operated business that would prefer to operate honestly and ethically, and so far that is working for us.

-Nathan from Koolertek

Ah...okay I was always under the impression that each individual piece of PET used per strand was the filament. I have some sleeving that's monofilament and it only has 1 piece of PET per strand. Maybe my assumption is incorrect....I'll take a picture later on tonight when I can see if I have a large diameter piece. The one in front of me is 1/8th and is really really really hard to see the filaments unless expanded which is hard to do with one hand to take a picture







Btw, thx for responding and the coupon code


----------



## j0n3z3y

It's been a long day and I gapped on this thread until I checked all my previous posts. Here is the promised pics,I unwound one end so you guys could see more detail. Nathan's a good guy,and very helpful. We've had a good working relationship and like he said earlier in response to you that you posted,I just like how they do business,he's gone above and beyond for me several times in the past. I like giving a hand to those that help me. Pls discount the kitty hair. Shedding :/

Attachment 156939

Attachment 156940

Attachment 156938

As you can see w/ the extreme close up of sleeved wires....this is not PET nor of lesser quality. You can see no light through until you expand it. The sleeved wires btw are 18ga. and the sleeve is expanded by about .5mm. There is a piece w/ PET in the lower portion of the pic for comparison.


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *j0n3z3y* 
It's been a long day and I gapped on this thread until I checked all my previous posts. Here is the promised pics,I unwound one end so you guys could see more detail. Nathan's a good guy,and very helpful. We've had a good working relationship and like he said earlier in response to you that you posted,I just like how they do business,he's gone above and beyond for me several times in the past. I like giving a hand to those that help me. Pls discount the kitty hair. Shedding :/

Attachment 156939

Attachment 156940

Attachment 156938

As you can see w/ the extreme close up of sleeved wires....this is not PET nor of lesser quality. You can see no light through until you expand it. The sleeved wires btw are 18ga. and the sleeve is expanded by about .5mm. There is a piece w/ PET in the lower portion of the pic for comparison.

Nice...thanks for the pics


----------



## oliverw92

Nice to have the owner of a store on OCN







I am loving the look of your business Nathan, I shall keep an eye on it









That sleeving looks good except for one thing - the gaps in between the groups of three strands.


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ff02*


Also, though we don't have a ton of reseller ratings, please keep in mind we've only been online since December. While we could do what a lot of companies do and post reviews for ourselves or offer discounts (bribes) for people to leave us feedback, that's just not how I like to run things. We're a small family operated business that would prefer to operate honestly and ethically, and so far that is working for us.

-Nathan from Koolertek


Well it is definitely a good price on the sleeving and a way to get your name out there. My advice would be to get some specialty products. I really don't like PPC that much but I am forced to order them because they carry what I need. The MDPC-X crimper is very attractive to us modders but personally I don't want to spend an arm and a leg on shipping. I do like the lapping kits even though I don't plan on lapping anything. If you keep your prices how they are, your business will grow quickly and then you can rape us with high prices like PPC







. Good to see another store owner on here. Good luck with the business! Don't forget to get your name on the list of modding stores. Just search "modding stores" on this site and you should find the thread.


----------



## j0n3z3y

Quote:



Originally Posted by *da tick 07*


My advice would be to get some specialty products. I really don't like PPC that much but I am forced to order them because they carry what I need...


PPC's ugh! I dealt with them one time....that was a debacle. I agree,I'll be using your shop alot more w/ a wider selection of parts Nathan. I do alot of mobo/psu connector swaps and my current source is a bit high on the prices. But,I use them because no one else has the color range they do. I'd love to see you guys expand.









@KamuiRSX: np mate,anytime I can help...









@Nathan: I left some feedback for you. Thanks again for all your help


----------



## MahiMahiMahi

I just ordered a whole bunch of stuff from MDPC! Man that website is cool!. Minnow will have custom sleaving now







. I'll post pics in my OP and here once i'm finished. Thanks for the inspiration guys.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MahiMahiMahi* 
I just ordered a whole bunch of stuff from MDPC! Man that website is cool!. Minnow will have custom sleaving now







. I'll post pics in my OP and here once i'm finished. Thanks for the inspiration guys.









can't wait to see! Remember to line up the heatshrink and make them all equal length! Make the end of the sleeving all the same distance away from the pin too! (1.7cm from the end of my corsair pins worked great for me. just make sure it'll still fit in the housing!)

Expect some updates to the OP soon with more tips


----------



## MahiMahiMahi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 







can't wait to see! Remember to line up the heatshrink and make them all equal length! Make the end of the sleeving all the same distance away from the pin too! (1.7cm from the end of my corsair pins worked great for me. just make sure it'll still fit in the housing!)

Expect some updates to the OP soon with more tips 

Will do







. My dad has a real heatgun and I am a perfectionist. I am sleaving a modular 650watt seasonic because the modularness will make taking apart the rig MUCH MUCH easier. Minnow is my new project which aims to put a q9550 and a fermi in a mini-itx case. I needed custom cables.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MahiMahiMahi* 
Will do







. My dad has a real heatgun and I am a perfectionist. I am sleaving a modular 650watt seasonic because the modularness will make taking apart the rig MUCH MUCH easier. Minnow is my new project which aims to put a q9550 and a fermi in a mini-itx case. I needed custom cables.

Ah, I was thinking of selling my rig and building an ITX system just for the fun of it, but couldn't really justify it. best of luck!


----------



## godofdeath

no new yorker ordering from mdpc?
i want the crimper lol


----------



## MotO

Anybody know when furry will have 1/8 clean cut in stock?


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX* 
He didn't stop, he ran out...he said he was 204th in line for another spool. His best bet is that hopefully in a week or so, he'll have another roll to sell. I hope he takes my advice and puts up a thread on the for sale section though







Would be awesome.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *MotO* 
Anybody know when furry will have 1/8 clean cut in stock?

Posted about a week ago. So hopefully soon.

How long should the heatshrinks be?
Also anyone know where i can get some inexpensive 24 pin and 6 pin extenstions? I know its lame, but unless I can get a modular Im using them!


----------



## MijnWraak

heatshrink should be around .5-.6 inches. Too much and it looks crap, too little and it might not stay attached. Play around with it though to try to get the best for your needs.


----------



## Ben the OCer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yogi*


Posted about a week ago. So hopefully soon.

How long should the heatshrinks be?
Also anyone know where i can get some inexpensive 24 pin and 6 pin extenstions? I know its lame, but unless I can get a modular Im using them!


My usual method for 6/8-pin PCI-E, 8/4-pin auxiliary, and 24-pin cables is to cut a 1/2" of heatshrink to put over the wire and 1/2" of heatshrink to hold the sleeving. The 1/2" of heatshrink just over the wire prevents the heatshrink, holding the sleeving, from slipping or moving as much. It also prevents any of the color of the wires from being seen at all. For the first layer of heatshrink, the red line is were I place the right side of the heatshrink:










Before I do any of this I put tape over the pin so it doesn't tear the sleeving. I put on the sleeving. I put the first layer of heatshrink on and shrink that. I put the second layer of heatshrink on that holds the sleeving but don't shrink it yet. I put the pin back into the connector and shrink the second layer of sleeving. Shrinking the second layer after I put it in the connector makes it as even as possible with the rest rest of the wires. There are of course different methods to do this but this is my favorite method. The end product looks like this:










Also remember to label each wire and the connector so you know were they go.

For extension cables I'd try your local computer shop. I got my 8-pin extension cable from the local computer shop Digilink. The Best Buy and Office Max by me in Michigan didn't have any. If you have a Micro Center or Fry's by you I'm sure they would have them too.


----------



## Yogi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


heatshrink should be around .5-.6 inches. Too much and it looks crap, too little and it might not stay attached. Play around with it though to try to get the best for your needs.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ben the OCer*


*snip*

For extension cables I'd try your local computer shop. I got my 8-pin extension cable from the local computer shop Digilink. The Best Buy and Office Max by me in Michigan didn't have any. If you have a Micro Center or Fry's by you I'm sure they would have them too.


Thanks guys. The extensions were a little more expensive then I thought. I think it would be worth it to sell my psu and try to get a used 750/850HX.
Yay for spending more money! Only $450 more then I planned in the first place


----------



## rmvvwls

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ben the OCer*


My usual method for 6/8-pin PCI-E, 8/4-pin auxiliary, and 24-pin cables is to cut a 1/2" of heatshrink to put over the wire and 1/2" of heatshrink to hold the sleeving. The 1/2" of heatshrink just over the wire prevents the heatshrink, holding the sleeving, from slipping or moving as much. It also prevents any of the color of the wires from being seen at all. For the first layer of heatshrink, the red line is were I place the right side of the heatshrink:











My method is very similar to this (exact same location) but I've found that for this end of the wire, the heatshrink is normally strong enough to hold the sleeve if only one piece is used. I shrink this side first, then use the above mentioned 2-piece process for the other end of the cable to hold the sleeve on just the wire.
If you shrink before putting the pin back in the connector, you can normally fit the shrink inside the connector as well, which looks neater.








Note: I didn't put as much effort into this as I should have. Next time, I'm rigging a pair of scissors to cut all pieces exactly the same length. The shrink being slightly different lengths is much more noticeable when the shrink and sleeving are different colours.

Also, never underestimate the effect of simply organising wires by bundling them:









And of course, play with it. Much of mine was simply trial and error. Experiment and find the best solution for yourself.


----------



## MijnWraak

Yeah one layer of heatshrink is usually the way to go. As long as it's quality heatshrink of the right size it'll hold on there when properly heated, and looks the best. If you want it to look even remotely close to the perfection of xien's sleeving, you need to line up where the sleeving ends to the spot right before the wire connects to the housing, and heatshrink to 1mm past the crimp point of the pin and about .25 inches over the sleeving.


----------



## KamuiRSX

For those looking to buy some of FurryLetter's Techflex Clean Cut 1/8th of an inch, he's got some back in stock.


----------



## MijnWraak

Anyone planning any sleeving projects? Or find a good source of 3:1 1/4" heatshrink?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


Anyone planning any sleeving projects? Or find a good source of 3:1 1/4" heatshrink?











As soon as my case is powdercoated and put back together, lots of cutting and sleeving of wires will take place for me


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


As soon as my case is powdercoated and put back together, lots of cutting and sleeving of wires will take place for me










Can't wait! Ah, I need to be more active in the Family haha. Been slacking


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
Anyone planning any sleeving projects? Or find a good source of 3:1 1/4" heatshrink?










Hopefully this month







, still deciding if I should go modular.


----------



## KShirza1




----------



## jacobroufa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


Anyone planning any sleeving projects? Or find a good source of 3:1 1/4" heatshrink?











I've got an order of MDPC-X heatshrink & furryletters 1/8 nylon multifilament on it's way. I think it'll be a good combo because I like the look of the nmf and MDPC heatshrink is the best. Just waiting on an RMA for my PSU. I used it less than one day and it blew...







So as soon as it gets here you know what I'll be doing!


----------



## Yogi

For anyone wondering how much sleeving they will need, just look for a review of your PSU. Got mine from Hardware Canucks (850TX)


Also would it be ok if I made it so my sata and 4 pins had less connectors?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yogi*


Also would it be ok if I made it so my sata and 4 pins had less connectors?


Yeah that's fine.


----------



## oliverw92

Snip snip snip







I make my own versions of those cables now - can't be fussed with stock stuff.


----------



## Xien16




----------



## MotO

For anybody who has used 1/8 clean cut, what kind of heat shrink did you use? I found a place that sells 3:1 stuff at 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4 for pretty cheap. I read 1/8 is too small so I'm trying to decide between 3/16 and 1/4. I'm thinking 1/4 to be on the safe side since it's 3:1.


----------



## ryanmh

I really want to sleeve my PSU, but I've heard that Corsair sends you replacements when they break so I don't want to void the warranty.


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MotO*


For anybody who has used 1/8 clean cut, what kind of heat shrink did you use? I found a place that sells 3:1 stuff at 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4 for pretty cheap. I read 1/8 is too small so I'm trying to decide between 3/16 and 1/4. I'm thinking 1/4 to be on the safe side since it's 3:1.


3/16 is what you need and the 3:1 will per perfect. Also, how cheap is the place that you're buying it? Btw 3/16 fits snuggly over the 1/8th Clean Cut









Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryanmh*


I really want to sleeve my PSU, but I've heard that Corsair sends you replacements when they break so I don't want to void the warranty.










I'm not 100% on this but it should be that as long as you don't open the PSU, you'll keep your warranty. So you can sleeve up to the part where the wires go inside the PSU with no worries. I would honestly send an email to Corsair and ask them if you can resleeve the PSU without opening it (specify that) and would it void your warranty.


----------



## Reptar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryanmh*


I really want to sleeve my PSU, but I've heard that Corsair sends you replacements when they break so I don't want to void the warranty.










You could always sleeve extensions, and hide the unsleeved wires behind your case.


----------



## Yogi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryanmh*


I really want to sleeve my PSU, but I've heard that Corsair sends you replacements when they break so I don't want to void the warranty.










Just dont open it up.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seven9st surfer*


Not 100% sure. I've read that companies like corsair let you sleeve and still stay in warranty. Of course, this is just from what other people have posted. I'd call customer service of whatever company makes your psu and check with them first



Quote:



Originally Posted by *nafljhy*


like what seven said.. corsair will let you sleeve it BUT you can't take the PSU apart.. like... say... what i've done.


----------



## CrimsonMango

Here's a walkthrough of the custom tube-sleeved cabled that I did up for my Project: Threshold build:

*Thursday 4/1/2010*

Started sleeving with the 24-pin ATX connector:

labeled all the wires with wire tags:


















mr. molex, say hello to molex remover:


























cover the bunch of bare molex pins with a bag:










and shove it into the sleeving, or in this case black silicone tubing










and out they come:










cut 24 4" pieces of 1/16" expandable sleeving










and slide it onto the ends of the wires:


















heatshrink the ends of the sleeving, or in this case, I used black electrical tape (yes I got a bit lazy, and I didn't have any 1/8" heatshrink at the time)


















and heatshrink over the silicone tubing and sleeving:


















pulled off the electrical tape and re-did the 24-pin connector with black heatshrink tubing:










2x 8-pin EPS 12v connectors










4x 6-pin PCI-E connectors:










burnt the midnight oil and got my Zippy 1200w completely sleeved in black silicone tubing


----------



## MotO

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX* 
3/16 is what you need and the 3:1 will per perfect. Also, how cheap is the place that you're buying it? Btw 3/16 fits snuggly over the 1/8th Clean Cut









Thanks for the info. How snug is it though? I don't want to be stretching it to get it over the sleeving lol. It's $0.84 a foot with no tax so I thought that was pretty good for 3:1 stuff but I haven't really shopped around.


----------



## CrimsonMango

PM me about pricing on 1/8" and 3/16" heatshrink tubing - I have 25ft spools of both and don't plan on ever using all of it, and I guarantee I'll give you a better deal than anywhere online

1/8" won't fit over 1/8"

3/16" will slide right over the top of 1/8" sleeving and give you a nice tight shrink

example:


----------



## KShirza1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CrimsonMango* 









that would be a nightmare for cable management!


----------



## ryanmh

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX* 
I'm not 100% on this but it should be that as long as you don't open the PSU, you'll keep your warranty. So you can sleeve up to the part where the wires go inside the PSU with no worries. I would honestly send an email to Corsair and ask them if you can resleeve the PSU without opening it (specify that) and would it void your warranty.

How will I get the sleeving that is already on the PSU off? The cables are sleeved into the PSU, requiring me to open it to remove it.


----------



## godofdeath

actually sleeving is modding or something and it supposedly voids the warranty
it was answered on the corsair forums


----------



## CrimsonMango

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KShirza1*


that would be a nightmare for cable management!



that's the nightmare after I tamed it...

here's how the Zippy PSL-6C00V 1200w comes from the factory:


































































Yes, those are two-foot long cables... you can't get a better power supply for in a massive U2-UFO or Ascension case


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MotO* 
Thanks for the info. How snug is it though? I don't want to be stretching it to get it over the sleeving lol. It's $0.84 a foot with no tax so I thought that was pretty good for 3:1 stuff but I haven't really shopped around.

Well it's not fighting to get it on snug but with mine I do have to maneuver it a little to get it in but that's actually what you want. The tighter the snug the better in the long run. That's not bad for 3:1, $3.36 for 4 feet. You'll need about 10 feet for 100 feet of sleeving. Also, keep in mind how much of your PSU that you're actually sleeving. You don't have to sleeve the entire thing if you don't use all the connectors.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryanmh* 
How will I get the sleeving that is already on the PSU off? The cables are sleeved into the PSU, requiring me to open it to remove it.

Official Response as quoted below:

Quote:

Just for anyone wondering, I got a reply from Corsair. Here is my question and the "official" response:

My question:
Hey there,
I own a Corsair HX1000 Power Supply, and would like to re-sleeve some of the cables. However, I am unsure if this will void the power supply's 5 year warranty or not. Any help on this matter would be much appreciated!

Thanks, and Happy Holidays!
Tom

Corsair's Response:
Hello Tom,

No this will not void the warranty, as long the unit is self is untouched.

Thank you!

So there ya go everyone.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
actually sleeving is modding or something and it supposedly voids the warranty
it was answered on the corsair forums

Thx


----------



## Yogi

No warranty voided! Just did a search on the corsair forums

Quote:



Just for anyone wondering, I got a reply from Corsair. Here is my question and the "official" response:

My question:
Hey there,
I own a Corsair HX1000 Power Supply, and would like to re-sleeve some of the cables. However, I am unsure if this will void the power supply's 5 year warranty or not. Any help on this matter would be much appreciated!

Thanks, and Happy Holidays!
Tom

Corsair's Response:
Hello Tom,

No this will not void the warranty, as long the unit is self is untouched.

Thank you!

So there ya go everyone.










EDIT: Guess that just for modular cables.

Quote:



Here is the official answer:

Modifying the modular cables will not void the warranty.

If you modify the fixed cables, this will void your warranty. Removing the connectors, desoldering, cutting wires, etc constitutes modifying.



Quote:



As long as you do not remove any of the connectors, or cut any wiring, removing/replacing the sleeving should be alright.


I guess you could just sleeve it and if you wanted to send it in for RMA you would have to remove your sleeve job. Im sure they wouldn't be able to tell.


----------



## Imrac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yogi*


I guess you could just sleeve it and if you wanted to send it in for RMA you would have to remove your sleeve job. Im sure they wouldn't be able to tell.


With Corsair power supplies they will be able to tell because you removed the stock sleeving that came with the power supply. I have however RMAed power supplies that I have sleeved then removed when stock they didn't come sleeved.


----------



## Yogi

On of the reps(?) said that removing the sleeving is alright. Im thinking the reason you said that is because yours is sleeved all the way into the unit? Mine and most of the older ones aren't sleeved all the way.


----------



## Imrac

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
On of the reps(?) said that removing the sleeving is alright. Im thinking the reason you said that is because yours is sleeved all the way into the unit? Mine and most of the older ones aren't sleeved all the way.

Ah, maybe Corsair has a different policy than the manufacturer I asked. I just figured Corsair would be the same. (mine is not sleeved all they way inside. it stops about 1 inch short)


----------



## oliverw92

Corsair is fine with you sleeving as long as you don't open up the PSU


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Corsair is fine with you sleeving as long as you don't open up the PSU

This....

i however like to do a clean job lol... and tend to break them open... haha


----------



## oliverw92

When my new Enermax comes it's going to get violated


----------



## Imrac

Yeah I can't wait for finals to be over, then I can finish what I started. I even bought some ATX pins to sleeve the 6+2 PCI-E cables. I have had my side panels off for a week and a half just waiting to get some time.


----------



## nascasho

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
When my new Enermax comes it's going to get violated









So will your warranty.


----------



## oliverw92

I don't care - i'm powdercoating the exterior, cutting off the unnecessary cables, changing the fan.


----------



## MijnWraak

warranty schwarranty. if you get a known good model, you shouldnt have to worry.


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


warranty schwarranty. if you get a known good model, you shouldnt have to worry.


It's always good to have a net below you in case **** happens


----------



## KShirza1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CrimsonMango* 
that's the nightmare after I tamed it...

what im trying to say is good luck routing those behind the mobo tray and close the door.

Im sleeved and i have hard time... no way if i had1/2 tygon tubing in a tight cluster lol










in


----------



## fshizl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KShirza1*


what im trying to say is good luck routing those behind the mobo tray and close the door.

Im sleeved and i have hard time... no way if i had1/2 tygon tubing in a tight cluster lol










in




i love normandy!!!!


----------



## oliverw92

I prefer Paris


----------



## MacG32

Just sleeved for the first time using MDPC-X sleeving and shrink tube. It's a fan controller/card reader.


----------



## MijnWraak

Be sure to streeeeeeetch it out as much as you can so the sleeve is tight against the cables and the weave is nice and tight!


----------



## MacG32

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


Be sure to streeeeeeetch it out as much as you can so the sleeve is tight against the cables and the weave is nice and tight!


Thank you.







It's tight, but on one of them, I held the heat gun there a little long and the weave swelled some. After the pics, I noticed it and evened it out.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MacG32*


Thank you.







It's tight, but on one of them, I held the heat gun there a little long and the weave swelled some. After the pics, I noticed it and evened it out.










nice







looks great btw! I had to use different heatshrink to get it around my fan connector, the mdpc kept breaking when I stretched it too far.


----------



## MacG32

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
nice







looks great btw! I had to use different heatshrink to get it around my fan connector, the mdpc kept breaking when I stretched it too far.

Thanks again!







I removed one end off of each wire set to sleeve them. Let's see, I pulled a wire out of it's metal connector and had to re-solder it. I broke off two different locking pins from different connectors. And, I also burned my arm a little with the heat gun.







It took me about a half of a day to do all of that.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MacG32* 
Thanks again!







I removed one end off of each wire set to sleeve them. Let's see, I pulled a wire out of it's metal connector and had to re-solder it. I broke off two different locking pins from different connectors. And, I also burned my arm a little with the heat gun.







It took me about a half of a day to do all of that.

















It's a labor of love. I got calluses on my fingers from sleeving my 8-pin alone. I messed up a wire and need to do it over, and haven't even started the 24-pin! I really need to start moving haha.


----------



## Imrac

Just thought I'd mention, this is a pretty awesome ATX pin remover for 7 dollars from performance PCs


----------



## MacG32

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 







It's a labor of love. I got calluses on my fingers from sleeving my 8-pin alone. I messed up a wire and need to do it over, and haven't even started the 24-pin! I really need to start moving haha.

I'll be tickled pink when I'm all finished with everything in my case.







Sooooo much to sleeve!







We need more pics, so hurry, hurry.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Imrac* 
Just thought I'd mention, this is a pretty awesome ATX pin remover for 7 dollars from performance PCs

I own all of MDPC-X's tools, the Sunbeam PSU set, my trusty Leatherman, and a whole master mechanics tool set/roll away to work with.


----------



## DJLiquid

lets see : have some progress pics -



















I went with extensions so I could easily RMA if necessary (which it was I might add...) I made these... wouldn't post pictures of bought ones









Shot of ze back:









and a few with my blue or white LEDs


----------



## evan_phi

I finished my first sleeving attempt last night... but I won't have decent pics until after a week or so. It is super sexy and UV-glowy









Before:









eew. Wires.

iPhone Teaser, after:
UV on:

















UV Off:


----------



## fshizl

omg xien16 is looking ... at the same time as me! lol


----------



## Xien16

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


omg xien16 is looking ... at the same time as me! lol


I'm looking 100% of the time I am online























Just using many tabs in Firefox


----------



## Yogi

How long would it take for MDPC to ship to California?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
How long would it take for MDPC to ship to California?

I'm in the middle of the US and it always takes around 3-5 days.

SO I would guess 4-6 days for you. Just depending on who you have ship it.


----------



## fshizl

until i do my sig rig in a new tj07 ill stick to the furryletters sleeving lol...


----------



## j0n3z3y

Thought you guys might like to know....there is a great supplier that hasn't been around long and has excellent (though unknown brand) full coverage sleeving for CHEAP prices. Nathan's a good guy,I've been dealing w/ him for a few months now and he ships fast and inexpensively.

http://www.koolertek.com/computer-pa...eving-c195.htm

A few examples of the sleeving (my work) & yes,the color is accurate and UV reactive.







Pardon the kitty hair,shedding ftw!









Attachment 158809

Attachment 158810

Attachment 158811


----------



## oliverw92

Yeah you have shown us before, my only issue with the sleeving is the gaps inbetween the groups of strands - sure it is triple weave, but inbetween the groups you can still see cables.


----------



## MahiMahiMahi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
How long would it take for MDPC to ship to California?

Quick, it only took a week or so for my package to arrive in Florida







.

On another note, the crimper and the pin remover that Nils sells is amazing. I would defiantly recommend them to anyone!. My crimps look better than the psu manufactures crimps now







. The pin remover, well, it removes pins every time without a fuss. I am now one happy camper(crimper).


----------



## Xien16

One more happy crimper


----------



## shnur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MahiMahiMahi*


Quick, it only took a week or so for my package to arrive in Florida







.

On another note, the crimper and the pin remover that Nils sells is amazing. I would defiantly recommend them to anyone!. My crimps look better than the psu manufactures crimps now







. The pin remover, well, it removes pins every time without a fuss. I am now one happy camper(crimper).


You know, they're doing thousands of crimps a day, you'll only be doing a hundred or so in a week... it'll definitely look nicer


----------



## Yogi

MDPC sleeving isnt really that expensive. If you are already getting some colored might aswell get the black too. Its only ~$5 more for 100 feet compared to Furryletters.


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
MDPC sleeving isnt really that expensive. If you are already getting some colored might aswell get the black too. Its only ~$5 more for 100 feet compared to Furryletters.

Exactly


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yogi*


MDPC sleeving isnt really that expensive. If you are already getting some colored might aswell get the black too. Its only ~$5 more for 100 feet compared to Furryletters.


It's not the sleeving that's expensive but the total cost.

FurryLetters

100 feet of Clean Cut 1/8 is $19 shipped for me

MDPC

30 meters (98.4251 feet) is 20.04 Euros or $23.92 USD + shipping and shipping is $13.73 USD to me. Total cost of $37.65.

So for $0.35 more than MDPC, I can get 200 feet shipped to my door from FurryLetters. That's where the big difference comes into play. MDPC is only really worth it if you're wanting colored sleeving.

However, Nathan from Koolertek said he's looking into getting some high quality dense weave multi-filament 1/8th colored sleeving about a week ago. So hopefully, his quality will equal MDPC.


----------



## j0n3z3y

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Yeah you have shown us before, my only issue with the sleeving is the gaps inbetween the groups of strands - sure it is triple weave, but inbetween the groups you can still see cables.


My bad...just trying to help.


----------



## Yogi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX*


It's not the sleeving that's expensive but the total cost.


Should have been more clear. If you are getting colored and black it would be worth it to get the black from MDPC too. Furryletters is a great deal for black only


----------



## indofulioh

What size sleeving should I use to individually sleeve my power cables in a standard power supply? Is 1/8 inch from Furryletters and the small size from mdpc-x the same? Could i use small mdpc or 1/8 from Furryletters to do all of my cables(pcie, molex, fans, 24 pin, front panel connectors, usb, etc)? I will be using the sata size sleeving from mdpc-x for my sata cables, but what about the rest of the cables?

No matter how good your cable management is, it'll look butt ugly with poor quality sleeving that doesn't cover the ugly, mismatched colored cables your power supply has.


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *indofulioh* 
What size sleeving should I use to individually sleeve my power cables in a standard power supply? Is 1/8 inch from Furryletters and the small size from mdpc-x the same? Could i use small mdpc or 1/8 from Furryletters to do all of my cables(pcie, molex, fans, 24 pin, front panel connectors, usb, etc)? I will be using the sata size sleeving from mdpc-x for my sata cables, but what about the rest of the cables?

No matter how good your cable management is, it'll look butt ugly with poor quality sleeving that doesn't cover the ugly, mismatched colored cables your power supply has.

Yes they are the same size. 1/18th is the size you need. FurryLetters uses a dense weave and you can't see through the sleeving either.


----------



## MijnWraak

MDPC-X offers a specific sleeving size for USB cables, fwiw. I'd go with that for the case cable, as well.


----------



## indofulioh

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX*


Yes they are the same size. 1/18th is the size you need. FurryLetters uses a dense weave and you can't see through the sleeving either.


You mean 1/8 right?


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *indofulioh* 
You mean 1/8 right?

Meh sorry I'm tired lol but yes I mean 1/8th Techflex Clean Cut from FurryLetters. If you're buying the colors from MDPC already, just see the shipping change between just colors and colors with black and then weigh that against FurryLetter's pricing. Also, keep in mind that you'll need roughly 10 feet of heat shrink for every 100 feet of sleeving.


----------



## indofulioh

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX* 
Meh sorry I'm tired lol but yes I mean 1/8th Techflex Clean Cut from FurryLetters. If you're buying the colors from MDPC already, just see the shipping change between just colors and colors with black and then weight that against FurryLetter's pricing. Also, keep in mind that you'll need roughly 10 feet of heat shrink for every 100 feet of sleeving.

thanks for clearing that up. How much would it cost for mdpc-x to ship to southern california?

EDIT: But it looks like i'll be ordering some 100 feet (more? less?) of 1/8 inch black from furryletters, and heatshrink and blue sleeving from mdpc-x. Is there any other vendor that sells quality black heatshrink? I also want it to have a good 3:1 or 4:1 ratio too..


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *indofulioh*


thanks for clearing that up. How much would it cost for mdpc-x to ship to southern california?

EDIT: But it looks like i'll be ordering some 100 feet (more? less?) of 1/8 inch black from furryletters, and heatshrink and blue sleeving from mdpc-x. Is there any other vendor that sells quality black heatshrink? I also want it to have a good 3:1 or 4:1 ratio too..


Uhm...MCMaster-Carr sells heat shrink that's 3:1 and 4:1...I think there's a seller on eBay that sells 3:1 but not sure about 4:1 ratio. To get a shipping quote, go to his site mdpc-x.com and create an account and login and add the items you want to your cart and then click on checkout and it will give you a shipping quote as well as total cost.

Uhm...let's see with your PSU, if you're using 2 colors, I'd go with 100 feet of each and whatever you have left over you can save for another build. However, if you're like me and only sleeving the wires that you'll actually be using, maybe 50 feet of each would work out a lot better but you'd have to get 20 meters of blue from MDPC and 50 feet of black from FurryLetters. Also, like I posted above, if you want to wait for Nathan from Koolertek to see how his colored non-fray multi-filament new sleeving holds up in looks vs MDPC, that's also an option to explore. His name is ff02 here on OCN if you want to ask him about it.


----------



## indofulioh

Has anyone ever sleeved a power cord? Like, the one that goes out of the power supply into a wall outlet?


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *indofulioh*


Has anyone ever sleeved a power cord? Like, the one that goes out of the power supply into a wall outlet?


One guy did but it wasn't using sleeving. However, if you were going to use sleeving, you'll be looking at .5 inch sleeving.


----------



## CrimsonMango

McMaster-Carr has everything as far as heatshrink tubing and expandable sleeving goes. They have all different types of it - if you need help, let me know and I'll give you some part numbers for the typical 4:1 polyolefin heat shrink tubing and sleeving for their site.


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *indofulioh* 
thanks for clearing that up. How much would it cost for mdpc-x to ship to southern california?

EDIT: But it looks like i'll be ordering some 100 feet (more? less?) of 1/8 inch black from furryletters, and heatshrink and blue sleeving from mdpc-x. Is there any other vendor that sells quality black heatshrink? I also want it to have a good 3:1 or 4:1 ratio too..

Keep it simple and just get the black from MDPC too - the quality is second to none









Quote:


Originally Posted by *indofulioh* 
Has anyone ever sleeved a power cord? Like, the one that goes out of the power supply into a wall outlet?

Yes -


----------



## twm.7

How, I'm wondering how he managed to have the psu there and the plug on the other side. =/


----------



## j0n3z3y

Quote:



Originally Posted by *twm.7*


How, I'm wondering how he managed to have the psu there and the plug on the other side. =/


He just put an IEC male plug on the chassis and hard wired it to the original power cord going to the psu. I can pretty well guarantee from that pic of the external power cord that he has a aftermarket plug on the end of it that's tucked behind the case. It's the only way to have gotten the sleeving that tight on the cord. Pretty good idea though =D


----------



## oliverw92

The case is designed like that to have the PSU at the front.

He would have got the sleeving on by simply unscrewing the plug from the other end, putting the sleeving on, screwing the plug back on again.


----------



## j0n3z3y

Any idea which Silverstone case that is? They should've mounted the IEC flush with the backside of the case if it was done from the factory. Less likely to be damaged from an impact in case of an accidental drop. I did'nt know they gave European market psu's a non-molded plug on your computers. Stateside,ours are always molded on cord.

What type connector do they use? Clamshells?


----------



## ZTempo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *j0n3z3y* 
Any idea which Silverstone case that is?

It's the Lian Li PC-A05N ..


----------



## oliverw92

Most of the time they are now moulded and you can't open them, however you can still just by a plug and make your own cable. I don't know how continental europe plugs work, but the UK ones are clamshells.


----------



## KShirza1

The Normandy spine






the front if you forgot


----------



## ghettogeddy

so i just started my sleeving venture lol

got my 6 pin extension done and the 8 pin cpu form the psu and got the 24 pin sleeves cut
















































found a cool tool to use to cut the sleeving with out fraying 
there a pair of cat nail trimmers 
i got these ones at the 99 cent store so score


----------



## MahiMahiMahi

That is a cool tool! and nice job on the sleeving. I'm going to start mine tomorrow







.


----------



## Ben the OCer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ghettogeddy* 
so i just started my sleeving venture lol

got my 6 pin extension done and the 8 pin cpu form the psu and got the 24 pin sleeves cut








found a cool tool to use to cut the sleeving with out fraying
there a pair of cut mail trimmers
i got these ones at the 99 cent store so score









Cool, you have a ModXStream Pro 600W too. That's the exact unit I have.







Your sleeving job looks nice. I always liked the look of black and blue sleeving. That cutting tool looks very handy, what is the name of the dollar store you bought it from? So they are called "cut mail trimmers" is that correct? Sorry but the name doesn't make sense to me, do you know the manufacturers name or intended use so I can try to find it? I'd really appreciate it.

LOL, there's a funny story about my sleeving job. I got a new heat gun at Harbor Freight. The first time I used it I accidentally melted the connector end on the 6-pin PCI-E power cable. Oops, I guess I set the temperature a little too high.







Thankfully it was one of the modular cables and my HD4850 only needs one 6-pin to power it so I can use the 6/8-pin PCI-E cable instead.


----------



## ghettogeddy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ben the OCer* 
Cool, you have a ModXStream Pro 600W too. That's the exact unit I have.







Your sleeving job looks nice. I always liked the look of black and blue sleeving. That cutting tool looks very handy, what is the name of the dollar store you bought it from? So they are called "cut mail trimmers" is that correct? Sorry but the name doesn't make sense to me, do you know the manufacturers name or intended use so I can try to find it? I'd really appreciate it.

LOL, there's a funny story about my sleeving job. I got a new heat gun at Harbor Freight. The first time I used it I accidentally melted the connector end on the 6-pin PCI-E power cable. Oops, I guess I set the temperature a little too high.







Thankfully it was one of the modular cables and my HD4850 only needs one 6-pin to power it so I can use the 6/8-pin PCI-E cable instead.


you must have been typing that while i was editing lol its cat nail trimmers

the place i got them was actually winco and were a 5 bucks but i have bought them at the 99 cent store (thats the name 99 cent store)
you should be able to find them at any pet store or walmart im sure


----------



## ghettogeddy

finished the 24 pin figured i slap the psu back in and wait to do the rest when i do my water loop

















































































so before with old video card lol








after


----------



## Ben the OCer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ghettogeddy*


you must have been typing that while i was editing lol its cat nail trimmers

the place i got them was actually winco and were a 5 bucks but i have bought them at the 99 cent store (thats the name 99 cent store)
you should be able to find them at any pet store or walmart im sure


First off the finished product looks sweet. OK, cat nail trimmers makes a lot more sense than cut mail trimmers.







I edit my posts a lot for mistakes too. When I need it I seem to completely forget the "r" in your a lot, among other things.







For the LOLs:


----------



## mitchbowman

do you guys think that Black and White MDPC-X sleeve will look good together 
im planing to do the 24 , 8 & 2 x 8 pin pcie connectors in it and was thinking of going 
24 = b.w.b.w.b.w.w.b.w.b.w.b
8 = b.w.b.w
The main case colour's will be blue and black but i think that blue and black sleeve has been over done now so i might try black and white with a lot of blue ccl's

don't be afraid to tell me what you really think


----------



## tipsycoma

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ghettogeddy*


you must have been typing that while i was editing lol its cat nail trimmers

the place i got them was actually winco and were a 5 bucks but i have bought them at the 99 cent store (thats the name 99 cent store)
you should be able to find them at any pet store or walmart im sure


Hey man, what kind of sleeving did you use there?


----------



## ghettogeddy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tipsycoma*


Hey man, what kind of sleeving did you use there?


i bought it off a member he said it was mdpc the black is not as full as i was expecting as a couple of the really bright wires still show through


----------



## MacG32

My 24 pin PSU sleeving.


----------



## Dualbrain

Edit: So beautiful Martin!


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

Hey everyone, some of you may know me from other forums or simply as Martin. First impressions are important so I'll post in this thread rather than in the introduction section.
















Just a few pics of extension cables I've made and sleeved:


































































MDPC-X FTW!









~Martin aka Crys1s


----------



## nascasho

^^^ Ohh, I like the white + red one!


----------



## Ben the OCer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r* 
Hey everyone, some of you may know me from other forums or simply as Martin. First impressions are important so I'll post in this thread rather than in the introduction section.
















Just a few pics of extension cables I've made and sleeved:










MDPC-X FTW!









~Martin aka Crys1s

Are you related to Xien16, LOL.







Same professional looking photography and same super human perfect sleeving job. I'm kidding of course about the first part but really how do you get it that perfect? Welcome to OCN, by the way.


----------



## oliverw92

Hey Martin, its oli


----------



## godofdeath

i need some girly color sleeving from mdpc-x aka yellow, pink, purple and such
needa make something pretty for my girl


----------



## Yogi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r*


Hey everyone, some of you may know me from other forums or simply as Martin. First impressions are important so I'll post in this thread rather than in the introduction section.
















Just a few pics of extension cables I've made and sleeved:

MDPC-X FTW!









~Martin aka Crys1s


Just saw all your sleevings on XS a few days ago






















That red and white one looks awesome.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


i need some girly color sleeving from mdpc-x aka yellow, pink, purple and such
needa make something pretty *for my girl*


right....


----------



## MahiMahiMahi

Has anyone ever braided their braided sleeving? Here is how that looks XD.








I can't afford a good camera yet







. Hopefully I will have one by fall for the changing of the leaves







.

In b4 yo dawg.


----------



## ghettogeddy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MahiMahiMahi*


Has anyone ever braided their braided sleeving? Here is how that looks XD.








I can't afford a good camera yet







. Hopefully I will have one by fall for the changing of the leaves







.

In b4 yo dawg.


thats pritty sick looking got pics of the 24 pin this way


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

Hey Naz







More white/red pics below









Ben the OCer: Thanks!







Not at all related to Xien.







We know each other from another forum though. As far as technique goes... it's all about practice, practice, practice, and patience.
















Hey Oliver







Nice to see you here!









Yogi: Thanks!


----------



## MahiMahiMahi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ghettogeddy* 
thats pritty sick looking got pics of the 24 pin this way

Nope, however I did finish the two pci-E power cables







. I like how they turned out.









Little better camera, however I went to best buy and looked at their dslr cameras







. I am definately going to get one of those







. BTW, what camera would be a good choice <500usd for taking pics of computer parts?


----------



## fshizl

It all depends on how you use it. If you use a tripod and auto timer and proper lighting the picture will turn out really good.

My Sammy cost me 200 bucks. It's 12 megapixels and look at the pictures i take with it.


----------



## mitchbowman

do you guys think that Black and White MDPC-X sleeve will look good together
im planing to do the 24 , 8 & 2 x 8 pin pcie connectors in it and was thinking of going
24 = b.w.b.w.b.w.w.b.w.b.w.b
8 = b.w.b.w
The main case colour's will be blue and black but i think that blue and black sleeve has been over done now so i might try black and white with a lot of blue ccl's

( sorry for the re-post but i really want to know what u think as i will be purchasing it soon )


----------



## oliverw92

MDPC black and white looks great together, however it is best to wrap the cables that will have white sleeving in white electrical tape - no matter what brand of white cable sleeving you use, you will nearly always see coloured cables through white sleeving.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


MDPC black and white looks great together, however it is best to wrap the cables that will have white sleeving in white electrical tape - no matter what brand of white cable sleeving you use, you will nearly always see coloured cables through white sleeving.


I'm working on white cables right now (with MDPC sleeving) and I actually used white spray paint on the wires.

Matte White for rubber from Krylon


----------



## oliverw92

That's quite a good idea actually Tator - will be interesting to see the results!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
That's quite a good idea actually Tator - will be interesting to see the results!

My pictures probably won't do justice as it's just a Nikon N550 10MP P&S

Currently, the only issue I'm having is I have them close-pin'd up outside drying, and it's getting rather humid. So I might have to wait a week before I can put on the final coating.

Though, they look good right now, it's not uniform. Gravities done most of the work form me in that regard. Slide the top crest, which is what looks lighter.

If anyone wants to try this, I suggest doing two coats, then roating the wire's around, doing 2 more coats, and then rotate once more for the final two.

Atleast, I did 6 coats total. It might take less with the rotating if you do it every other coat.

It was just an idea, needs perfecting now. Much cheaper than tape as well.


----------



## Imrac

Finally finished my sleeving today, no where near the same level as you fellows. next time I am definitely going to get a modular power supply and make my own cables. Also, I will probably use mdpc or furryletters instead of the nylon multifilament, it was a major pain to work with, I had to cut off my +2 from the 6pin PCI-E. I was going to cut them off and reattach after I sleeve, but I need to nice ATX crimpers .


----------



## ff02

This is Nathan from Koolertek, and this is what I can tell you:

1. Our current sleeving is decent, and I think at the price we run it at, it fills the needs of most people.

2. We got a sample from a mfg for some clean cut, and its not bad. Compared to the TechFlex clean cut, it has a bit more of a gap and uses slightly larger filaments. However, at the 3/8" size (what I had a sample of Techflex of already and received a sample of from the mfg I'm checking out), the Techflex is smaller in diameter. When compared against each other, held together making the same bend, I saw pretty close to the same amount of light through each. IMO, the Techflex is a little better as far as having less gap, but there also is no option at all for getting colors.

3. As far as the MDPC sleeving, I still need to check into that.

4. Our current 1/8 sleeve is on for 12 cents a foot. Enjoy









Also, thanks for vouching for me and my company. About everything I own has kitty hair on it.

BTW, some of you guys do some amazing sleeving jobs. I'm quite impressed.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *j0n3z3y*


Thought you guys might like to know....there is a great supplier that hasn't been around long and has excellent (though unknown brand) full coverage sleeving for CHEAP prices. Nathan's a good guy,I've been dealing w/ him for a few months now and he ships fast and inexpensively.

http://www.koolertek.com/computer-pa...eving-c195.htm

A few examples of the sleeving (my work) & yes,the color is accurate and UV reactive.







Pardon the kitty hair,shedding ftw!









Attachment 158809

Attachment 158810

Attachment 158811


----------



## Weston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ghettogeddy*


found a cool tool to use to cut the sleeving with out fraying 
there a pair of cat nail trimmers 
i got these ones at the 99 cent store so score 


















I've been using dog nail clippers for the longest time. Got them at Kroger for a couple bucks. They work amazing with almost anything. I use them to cut sleeving, cables, zip ties etc..

Weston


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ff02* 
This is Nathan from Koolertek, and this is what I can tell you:

1. Our current sleeving is decent, and I think at the price we run it at, it fills the needs of most people.

2. We got a sample from a mfg for some clean cut, and its not bad. Compared to the TechFlex clean cut, it has a bit more of a gap and uses slightly larger filaments. However, at the 3/8" size (what I had a sample of Techflex of already and received a sample of from the mfg I'm checking out), the Techflex is smaller in diameter. When compared against each other, held together making the same bend, I saw pretty close to the same amount of light through each. IMO, the Techflex is a little better as far as having less gap, but there also is no option at all for getting colors.

3. As far as the MDPC sleeving, I still need to check into that.

4. Our current 1/8 sleeve is on for 12 cents a foot. Enjoy









Also, thanks for vouching for me and my company. About everything I own has kitty hair on it.

BTW, some of you guys do some amazing sleeving jobs. I'm quite impressed.

Nice 12 cents a foot is a damn good deal...I will definitely be ordering some purple to give it a try.


----------



## MijnWraak

So I got around to finishing the 8-pin, and taking a few pictures. Unforunately I don't have the determination to finish the 24 pin with the 8 taking way longer than I thought due to procrastination and trying to be as perfect as possible. Now going to sell it to get parts for a new (20 year old) bike so I can reliably and comfortably get to my new job! Well I have an interview on Monday at least, wish me luck









I can get more if you want, but the camera isn't too fond of macro pictures unfortunately.


----------



## Dualbrain

Mijn - very good work on "the stretch"! As it has to be








Good luck on your interview!


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dualbrain*


Mijn - very good work on "the stretch"! As it has to be








Good luck on your interview!


Thanks! I had a bit of trouble with cutting heatshrink to even length, and I think a wire or two could have been stretched a bit more, but all in all I'd say I'm pretty happy with the result. Got a few calluses from stretching
















If I get the job I'll start a new sleeve project as soon as I get disposable income, promise







Appreciate the luck!


----------



## KShirza1

Small update, sorry for the sloppy pics. I just shot with auto iso.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yogi*


Just saw all your sleevings on XS a few days ago






















That red and white one looks awesome.

right....










lol i promised her a purple pc like she wanted but no pretty purple sleeve

i wouldnt mind making MY cables pink lol


----------



## Yogi

Gunna order soon, but I have a few questions.

1. How do you guys sleeve the extra 2 on the 6+2 pin? Should I just remove them?
2. Will I need to recrimp if I shorten up my sata/4 pin cables?


----------



## MahiMahiMahi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yogi*


Gunna order soon, but I have a few questions.

1. How do you guys sleeve the extra 2 on the 6+2 pin? Should I just remove them?
2. Will I need to recrimp if I shorten up my sata/4 pin cables?


1. I removed mine because I was not using them. (needed a crimper though)
2. Unless you are good at soldering, yes.


----------



## Imrac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yogi*


Gunna order soon, but I have a few questions.

1. How do you guys sleeve the extra 2 on the 6+2 pin? Should I just remove them?
2. Will I need to recrimp if I shorten up my sata/4 pin cables?


I removed my +2 as well, I was going to re-add them but, I wasn't able to get a good enough crimp on 2 wires with my needle nose. I would definitely recommend ordering some extra ATX pins as backup.

For sata cables, depending on the style of cable you may or may not need to recrimp. if they are the 90 degree ones, they are just punch down. For molex you will need to recrimp or solder, it would definitely help to have the proper tools though.


----------



## Yogi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MahiMahiMahi*


1. I removed mine because I was not using them. (needed a crimper though)
2. Unless you are good at soldering, yes.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Imrac*


I removed my +2 as well, I was going to re-add them but, I wasn't able to get a good enough crimp on 2 wires with my needle nose. I would definitely recommend ordering some extra ATX pins as backup.

For sata cables, depending on the style of cable you may or may not need to recrimp. if they are the 90 degree ones, they are just punch down. For molex you will need to recrimp or solder, it would definitely help to have the proper tools though.


Thanks guys. Ill have to think about something to do with the +2. 
As for my sata this is what they look like. Im going to cut my molexs down to just one connector each.
Sorry for the phone pic.


----------



## Imrac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yogi*


Thanks guys. Ill have to think about something to do with the +2. 
As for my sata this is what they look like. Im going to cut my molexs down to just one connector each.
Sorry for the phone pic.


yeah thats the kind you can just pull out and shove back in. Look up "Punch Down" on google, should show you kinda what those connectors are like. Just make sure if you move the connector, you heat shrink or electrical tape the semi-exposed wire that remains. What those connectors do is form a "V", when you shove the wire in, they cut the insulation and make contact around the edge of the wire. something like "\\o/"


----------



## Yogi

Alright thanks for the help.

Just ordered the MDPC sleeve kit and 10 meters of gray








It was only ~3 euro more vs 30 meters of black sleeving and 3 meters of heatshrink because of shipping


----------



## oliverw92

People say MDPC is expensive, but it really isn't! It is only shipping which can be a little expensive. Compare it to somewhere like ChilledPC, and MDPC is actually cheaper per meter and it is quality European-made sleeving which has never been compressed onto a roll, unlike the cheap chinese ChilledPC stuff


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
People say MDPC is expensive, but it really isn't! It is only shipping which can be a little expensive. Compare it to somewhere like ChilledPC, and MDPC is actually cheaper per meter and it is quality European-made sleeving which has never been compressed onto a roll, unlike the cheap chinese ChilledPC stuff

Well technically it is expensive. It costs more for slightly less sleeving when compared to TechFlex Clean Cut for us in the US. On top of that, we have to pay quite a bit for shipping. For the total cost (including shipping) of 30m (less than 100 feet of sleeving) from MDPC, we can buy over 200 feet of Techflex Clean Cut (shipped).

The only time it's even slightly worth it for MDPC is if you're wanting colored sleeving. So far, I haven't see any other colored sleeving that can beat MDPC. Now Nathan at Koolertek has some decent colored sleeving but it doesn't match MDPC.


----------



## oliverw92

Techflex Clean Cut is not the quality of MDPC though







I agree in the US you have more economical options, in the EU though MDPC is the best way to go


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Techflex Clean Cut is not the quality of MDPC though







I agree in the US you have more economical options, in the EU though MDPC is the best way to go









While I haven't physically held any piece of MDPC, I can say that Techflex Clean Cut is still great quality sleeving. There's no light leakage through the dense weave of the sleeving so you don't see any of the wires inside. To be honest, the only way I can see the MDPC being better were if the filaments were smaller and it had 4 instead of 3 like the Techflex Clean Cut.


----------



## bublik1

yesss i ordered from mdpcx for the first time ordering out of my country. i opend just for it paypal account. i ordered 2x20 meter small black and 2 meters heatshrink and 10 meters blue UV and 1 meter heatshrink.i hope it will be enough. pics in a week or so..


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bublik1* 
yesss i ordered from mdpcx for the first time ordering out of my country. i opend just for it paypal account. i ordered 2x20 meter small black and 2 meters heatshrink and 10 meters blue UV and 1 meter heatshrink.i hope it will be enough. pics in a week or so..

Should be more than enough...100 feet will generally serve you well in the sleeving. You might have more heat shrink than you need but always good to have some left over.


----------



## bublik1

thx for the reply. i had no idea how much to order, and i want to do like 30% blue and 70% black +-. will sleeve the main things. and if i will left with extra i will do it on the other things. forgive me for bad english,its not my mother language & im tired and going to sleep now. oh and i will shorten some of the cables coz some are too much long..


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bublik1* 
thx for the reply. i had no idea how much to order, and i want to do like 30% blue and 70% black +-. will sleeve the main things. and if i will left with extra i will do it on the other things. forgive me for bad english,its not my mother language & im tired and going to sleep now. oh and i will shorten some of the cables coz some are too much long..

Cheers and have fun and don't rush.


----------



## Yogi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bublik1*


thx for the reply. i had no idea how much to order, and i want to do like 30% blue and 70% black +-. will sleeve the main things. and if i will left with extra i will do it on the other things. forgive me for bad english,its not my mother language & im tired and going to sleep now. oh and i will shorten some of the cables coz some are too much long..


I planned out my sleeving so that I knew exactly how much I would need


----------



## bublik1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yogi*


I planned out my sleeving so that I knew exactly how much I would need











wow thats great idea. i planned in my head kinda of lol


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bublik1* 
wow thats great idea. i planned in my head kinda of lol

I use paint for my planning since I odnt know how to use sketch-up or anything. Not too sure about the bottom scheme on the 24 pin though.


----------



## jacobroufa

Hey so I was sleeving an extension (molex to pcie) and all the cables came out but one. And then that one came out but left the pin in the pcie connector. I can't get it out and I have a really hard time throwing things away (yes even three dollar items) when it'll take me a few days to get a new one (no frys or microcenter around). Suggestions for getting the pin out?


----------



## godofdeath

any advice on what size heatshrink and sleeving for front usb cables?


















I probably don't want to do invidual sleeving on them


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
any advice on what size heatshrink and sleeving for front usb cables?


















I probably don't want to do invidual sleeving on them

I used SATA sleeve and heatshrink, but Nils sells sleeving and heatshrink specifically for the USB cables.


----------



## godofdeath

OMG theres purple heatshrink
time to plan my girlfriends pc








now it needs a pink

what heatshrink for the usb one?

Now is that sleeving meant to be used over the wires or over the already plastic wrapped usb wires? like in picture 2


----------



## godofdeath

now all i need is some purple heatshrink


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


OMG theres purple heatshrink
time to plan my girlfriends pc








now it needs a pink

what heatshrink for the usb one?

Now is that sleeving meant to be used over the wires or over the already plastic wrapped usb wires? like in picture 2


Over the plastic wrapped ones. The purple looks quite nice too


----------



## godofdeath

hm maybe ill cut off the plastic to both and stick it in one?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


hm maybe ill cut off the plastic to both and stick it in one?


Yeah could do


----------



## godofdeath

hmm now to scrape up the money to order all the stuff


----------



## muledeer

When I sleeved my atx and 24 pin cables, I individually sleeved them, but I used heatsrink instead of sleeving. I think it gives it a cleaner look and there's no chance the cable will show through









Sorry for the crappy pic

Attachment 160294

Edit: Here's a current pic of my rig
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/g...3/DSCF6995.jpg


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *muledeer*


When I sleeved my atx and 24 pin cables, I individually sleeved them, but I used heatsrink instead of sleeving. I think it gives it a cleaner look and there's no chance the cable will show through









Sorry for the crappy pic

Attachment 160294

Edit: Here's a current pic of my rig
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/g...3/DSCF6995.jpg


too small to see


----------



## muledeer

Ill try to take a better pic of it later, I cropped and zoomed in on an old pic and the quality really sux but you get the idea


----------



## D0U8L3M

Hey guys i might be getting the Silverstone ST1000P power supply soon and the sleeving it comes with looks like crap. I was wondering about how much mdpcx sleeving and heat shrink would i need to single sleeve the whole thing ant if anyone has seen them what do i do about the capacitors on the ends? do i just heat shrink over them?


----------



## MijnWraak

The purple is a bit too pink for my taste. If it was more bluey, I'd probably get some more just for some fun! Can't find anything for the orange that I got


----------



## godofdeath

any new yorkers wanna order off mdpc? i might make an order soon


----------



## oliverw92

Om nom nom nom om nom


----------



## mitchbowman

lol

it look's good enough to eat


----------



## D0U8L3M

Quote:


Originally Posted by *D0U8L3M* 
Hey guys i might be getting the Silverstone ST1000P power supply soon and the sleeving it comes with looks like crap. I was wondering about how much mdpcx sleeving and heat shrink would i need to single sleeve the whole thing ant if anyone has seen them what do i do about the capacitors on the ends? do i just heat shrink over them?

...any help here?


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *D0U8L3M* 
...any help here?

As far as how much sleeving to use? Sorry I dunno on that model. My general suggestion is to just grab his kit and see how far that takes you or just wait until you get the PSU physically in your hands and then measure out all the wires you plan on sleeving and add them up. Generally, the accepted rule is 10 feet of heat shrink for every 100 feet of tubing.


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

To find how much sleeving you need for a PSU, multiply the length of each cable by the number of wires... pretty straightforward.


----------



## Rob0tuss1n

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


here is what i got:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

and

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

I also got some of this to cover solder joints:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

I used about 200ft of sleeve and 20ft of heatshrink to do the whole PSU and all my fans and my front panel.

It probably took me about 5-6 hours total to do all the work. It would have been quicker if I had a heat gun, but I just used a candle.

also, get one of these pin remover tools:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/38...tl=g35c133s257

They work great for both types of pins. I did break one half way through though so you might want to get 2.

For more pics check out my worklog, I am not done yet, so subscribe if you want to see the end product.










Nice Rig and sleeving


----------



## oliverw92

Rob0tuss1n please don't quote images


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Rob0tuss1n please don't quote images


But image quoting is awesome


----------



## oliverw92

It is also against the TOS


----------



## godofdeath

anyone got a face to face comparison of furryletters black and mdpc black sleeving?


----------



## fshizl

Any people in socal wanna order mdpc lol gotta order some soon for my new build


----------



## Somenamehere

Figure ill show off my Enermax Revolution 1050w sleeved in red and black.

My original post


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
Any people in socal wanna order mdpc lol gotta order some soon for my new build

if you said new york i coulda splitted it with you


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
if you said new york i coulda splitted it with you

You could split and then pay for shipping from new york to socal. should be under $3 with USPS first-class (under 13 ounches)


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
anyone got a face to face comparison of furryletters black and mdpc black sleeving?

If you look at Xilen's pictures and then look at someone who used FurryLetter's Techflex Clean Cut sleeving, the biggest difference is that MDPC is Matte and TechFlex Clean Cut is glossy. Other than that, I can't see any differences.


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
Any people in socal wanna order mdpc lol gotta order some soon for my new build

Just ordered on Monday :/


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
Just ordered on Monday :/

crap... lol nah my order is gonna be huge, 13 ounces is too light for what i want lol... like 200 feet of sleeving and crimping tool...


----------



## MahiMahiMahi

Did mdpc always have purple sleeve? I was just on his website and there was purple sleeve in stock.


----------



## oliverw92

No Mahi, it was released yesterday


----------



## merple

:/ Got excited about purple then went to the website only to be greeted with pink


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *merple* 
:/ Got excited about purple then went to the website only to be greeted with pink

It isn't pink, you're monitor is most likely not calibrated correctly. It is very hard to reproduce the purple correctly.


----------



## MahiMahiMahi

I think the purple looks good, pink is more of a warm color while purple is a cool color. I think nils would get his colors straight b/c he is obsessed with photography and correctly labeled things . That being said, good thing I check the mdpc-x specials daily XD. And oliver is right, purple is an expansive range of colors and your classification of purple is not what other people would call purple. Also, try calibrating your monitor.

Also if you think it looks pink, I think its time to sleeve your gfs computer.


----------



## merple

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
It isn't pink, you're monitor is most likely not calibrated correctly. It is very hard to reproduce the purple correctly.

I realise purple is a difficult colour to work with and I am quite picky about it, but the mdpc pics don't even look remotely purple to me.

A quick google images for "purple car" and I can see many shades of purple on this screen so I don't think it's so badly calibrated that purple looks pink.
I'll check it again when I get home.

This is a cack colour wheel but to me it looks like it fits under magenta, not purple or plum.


----------



## Dualbrain

Comparing it with a true red (aka red sleeve) reveals the shade to the brain - purple-brain









People with somehow "ok" calibrated monotirs should see something VERY nice, and a drastical difference to red




































This is love.


----------



## oliverw92

Gorgeous Nils







Comparing it to red really shows off the purple colour


----------



## Dualbrain

I know^^
As merple said: Difficult to understand, but comparing with an absolute pure red unveils the true beauty







*These pictures are the absolute reference.* It shows the reality even on monitors which are a little bit "off".

I love doing photos in the rain - I am wet


----------



## Xien16




----------



## fshizl

I JUST ORDERED MDPC-x for my new build.

Orange sata sleeving for all my sata wires, and Gray small sleeving for the psu.

gonna be in an 800D thats about to go underwater!


----------



## KamuiRSX

Uhm...I gotta agree...those aren't purple. I think what the original guy is trying to say is that he wants purple and not a purple/pink cross...that color has too much red and not enough blue to be purple. I'd call your color Fuchsia personally.










These are Purple Iris flowers. Notice the difference between their color and yours?


----------



## jacobroufa

Love the Purple sleeve Nils!!


----------



## IntelLover

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dualbrain* 
Comparing it with a true red (aka red sleeve) reveals the shade to the brain - purple-brain









People with somehow "ok" calibrated monotirs should see something VERY nice, and a drastical difference to red




































This is love.

How is this purple. Its like a pink with more blue in it but not enough to be purple.


----------



## Dualbrain

Just go to an Art-store or similar people who know about colors. Ask them to show you the range of purple-shades. You will find red-purples and blue-purples. It's a huge range. There is no "the purple". I only choose what I like and what 10 test-persons with all kinds of backgrounds like. Therefore: It's completely normal that some think this and some think that







That's normal and that's good. Color is something which offers unlimited options - as unlimited as personal tastes, lifes, intelligences, backgrounds, dreams, jobs etc. Color is like life: Some like it, some don't









A blue-purple to me personally is something totally uninteresting when it comes to "technology & design"







In nature, I like it of course.

Just to get back to the flower-samples: Purple-flowers
As I said: It's a huge range - and yes: It's one of many Purples, but it's purple. Officially


----------



## Xien16

Funny discussion


----------



## fshizl

Nice pictures xien and nils. I can't wait for my orange and gray sleeving to get here!!!!! Lol


----------



## bublik1

cant wait for my blue and black


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r




----------



## Dualbrain

You're the champion Crysis!

I finally found out how to achieve a better representation for a normal room-light situation (only reduce the brightness slightly and we're there) ... and not the full-power-photo-light situation which is a little bit uncommon















Then it's like this - as the eyes then see it:


----------



## oliverw92

That is most definitely purple Mr Nils


----------



## Xien16

And it was purple before - but a brighter version of purple


----------



## oliverw92

I dare anyone to say it isn't purple now


----------



## Dualbrain

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
That is most definitely purple Mr Nils









Oliver:







(lol - love the smiley!)


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
I dare anyone to say it isn't purple now









It's in the purple group as in blue mixed with red but as far as being called purple, most people would still call it Fuchsia or another color that's similar to it on the color spectrum.

Technically, any combination of blue and red mixture regardless as to the % of each is called purple.

As far as my tastes, it's not purple...not enough blue. But wow...there seems to be a lot of ass kissing going on though considering this started because a guy looked at the color and didn't see purple....


----------



## Dualbrain

Pick up a RAL-chart, find the match and read "purple".
What you're refering to is called "Lilac" in the RAL group of colors.
RAL defines colors, they know best









It's not about tastes and thinking when it comes to RAL definitions







They have clear definitions. And this is called "purple" by RAL. There is no wishy-washy zone when it comes to the RAL table and it's definitions.


----------



## Xien16

Love it or hate it


----------



## IntelLover

Ok, it looks like purple now. Different lighting i guess?


----------



## oliverw92

If you use a bright photography setup, it makes it look pink in photographs. Either indirect photography lights or just normal room/sunlight make it look more realistic in photos.


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dualbrain* 
Pick up a RAL-chart, find the match and read "purple".
What you're refering to is called "Lilac" in the RAL group of colors.
RAL defines colors, they know best









It's not about tastes and thinking when it comes to RAL definitions







They have clear definitions. And this is called "purple" by RAL. There is no wishy-washy zone when it comes to the RAL table and it's definitions.

According to your RAL chart, purple is this

RAL 4007

http://www.thebicyclegarage.net/file...olor_Chart.htm

If you look at it, it's still way darker than yours....sooooooo.....that brings us back to your color being lighter....


----------



## Dualbrain

Kasumi - go to an official one, where the real "words" are to be found?
http://www.ralcolor.com/

Remember that monitor representation is never meeting reality. You need a true RAL chart and a true product to find out what people like me can talk about, because I have a real product and a real RAL chart in my hands









It is 100% "purple" by RAL. You can try to speak against it how much you like, but you are simply wrong







Sorry, but I simply know it because I made it.

I would never discuss anything if I would not know the absolute facts. That's why you will never find me in a discussion about Overclocking, liquid-cooling etc., because I simply don't know things 100% and every statement by a user who has no real idea and knowledge is misleading others who read in forums.

If you want to continue to say things which aren't true - go ahead if you are a kind of guy who needs to have the last word just for the sake of a "win", but nothing changes the reality


----------



## xToaDx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dualbrain* 
Kasumi - go to an official one, where the real "words" are to be found?
http://www.ralcolor.com/

Remember that monitor representation is never meeting reality. You need a true RAL chart and a true product to find out what people like me can talk about, because I have a real product and a real RAL chart in my hands









It is 100% "purple" by RAL. You can try to speak against it how much you like, but you are simply wrong







Sorry, but I simply know it because I made it.

I would never discuss anything if I would not know the absolute facts. That's why you will never find me in a discussion about Overclocking, liquid-cooling etc., because I simply don't know things 100% and every statement by a user who has no real idea and knowledge is misleading others who read in forums.

If you want to continue to say things which aren't true - go ahead if you are a kind of guy who needs to have the last word just for the sake of a "win", but nothing changes the reality









Why is there a color called "rape yellow"?


----------



## Syrillian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xToaDx* 
Why is there a color called "rape yellow"?











Do not want!


----------



## oliverw92

It's RAL 4006 right Nils?


----------



## Dualbrain

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brassica_napus

Maybe Oliver







But Kamui will likely know better


----------



## KamuiRSX

Are you guys using point and shoot camera's to take your pictures or Digital SLR?


----------



## MahiMahiMahi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xien16* 
And it was purple before - but a brighter version of purple









































That looks familiar







. Also, I wonder why no one has commented on my braiding







I thought this was a gallery and discussion, yet when something new comes along it gets tossed aside







.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MahiMahiMahi* 
Nope, however I did finish the two pci-E power cables







. I like how they turned out.









Little better camera, however I went to best buy and looked at their dslr cameras







. I am definately going to get one of those







. BTW, what camera would be a good choice <500usd for taking pics of computer parts?

I am referring to this post by me that has not received one criticism or comment. C'mon guys, tell me wheather it looks like crap or if it looks good. I am not posting here because it makes a good diary.

/sadness.


----------



## Dualbrain

It's great! Precise work, nice color








I only wonder about the flexibility of the solution. Never tried it. Will it work in the system?

Kasumi: Mainly I use a bridge-cam: Sony R1. But sometimes also a DSLR. Good and soft lighting is more important than the cam in my personal opinion. Light makes the photo is what Tremeloes once told me and I think it'S more than true


----------



## mastical

So im planning on sleeving my HX1000. The 24 pin, 8 pin, 4 x 6pins and maybe some sata and hdd power cables later. And also sleeve some fans and front connectors.

So far i have 150' for 1/8 furryletters clean cut black.
Might order 20 meters of red or blue 1/8 from mdpc.
Either 3:1 adhesive heatshrink from ebay or 4:1 from mdpc.
I bought a tool thatll help with the atx pins.
Ill pick up a heatgun this week or just use a lighter.

Am i missing anything or something that i should change?

Im mostly unsure about the mdpc order.

Thanks for the help.


----------



## MeatloafOverdose

Get a heatgun! Even if its the orange one from Harbor Freight for 8-10 dollars. It will give you a nice even shrink compared to the lighters direct flame.


----------



## mastical

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MeatloafOverdose*


Get a heatgun! Even if its the orange one from Harbor Freight for 8-10 dollars. It will give you a nice even shrink compared to the lighters direct flame.


Will do thanks.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Your picture is no longer viewable Nils. Says 'No hotlinking allowed' lol.


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

^ lol, good one Krissy


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastical*


So im planning on sleeving my HX1000. The 24 pin, 8 pin, 4 x 6pins and maybe some sata and hdd power cables later. And also sleeve some fans and front connectors.

So far i have 150' for 1/8 furryletters clean cut black.
Might order 20 meters of red or blue 1/8 from mdpc.
Either 3:1 adhesive heatshrink from ebay or 4:1 from mdpc.
I bought a tool thatll help with the atx pins.
Ill pick up a heatgun this week or just use a lighter.

Am i missing anything or something that i should change?

Im mostly unsure about the mdpc order.

Thanks for the help.


IMO, if you're going to order from MDPC anyways, might as well go with the black sleeving there since it wont cost any more (already paying shipping and both are same price per foot roughly) and you want it all to match.

Definitely go with MDPC heatshrink, otherwise it won't go into the connector and won't look as good!

and a staple should be your best friend, but get the $3 molex remover from MDPC-X!


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastical*


So im planning on sleeving my HX1000. The 24 pin, 8 pin, 4 x 6pins and maybe some sata and hdd power cables later. And also sleeve some fans and front connectors.

So far i have 150' for 1/8 furryletters clean cut black.
Might order 20 meters of red or blue 1/8 from mdpc.
Either 3:1 adhesive heatshrink from ebay or 4:1 from mdpc.
I bought a tool thatll help with the atx pins.
Ill pick up a heatgun this week or just use a lighter.

Am i missing anything or something that i should change?

Im mostly unsure about the mdpc order.

Thanks for the help.


Be sure about the MDPC order







And if you are ordering from there already, as Mijn said, just get the black from there too - it is practically the same price since you are already paying the shipping cost.


----------



## mastical

Ok thanks guys Ill post pics once i get some done.
Ive read the whole thread and its been very helpful so far.


----------



## thebigrobbyrob

Rather than starting a new thread, ill post my question here. Im getting ready to pull the trigger on some MDCP-X sleeving and wondered, is it worth it to sleeve the entire length of the cable or should I just sleeve the half that closest to the connector..... I want to do the entire length for the sake of completeness but I could probably save 22ish euro if i went half (and you cant see the cable thats hidden anyways...). I just wanted some perspective before deciding to spend 70 euro on sleeving and heatshrink.


----------



## Syrillian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thebigrobbyrob*


Rather than starting a new thread, ill post my question here. Im getting ready to pull the trigger on some MDCP-X sleeving and wondered, is it worth it to sleeve the entire length of the cable or should I just sleeve the half that closest to the connector..... I want to do the entire length for the sake of completeness but I could probably save 22ish euro if i went half (and you cant see the cable thats hidden anyways...). I just wanted some perspective before deciding to spend 70 euro on sleeving and heatshrink.


Imho, it is worth sleeving the entire length of the cable: _The truth is in the details._

But, that depends upon budget. If you are struggling to get the money to purchase enough sleeving for the entire endeavor it might be wise or necessary to sleeve only what will be visible.


----------



## oliverw92

As syr said if you are on a budget, then just do the visible amount. However i could personally never do that - I would always have in the back of my mind that there is some ugliness hidden away inside my pc!


----------



## Xien16

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX*


Are you guys using point and shoot camera's to take your pictures or Digital SLR?


Why do you ask?
If you practise long enough both are really good for taking good pics









Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Your picture is no longer viewable Nils. Says 'No hotlinking allowed' lol.


Owned by overclock.net
But Nils you sould know that it is not allowed to steal pics from MDPC-X


----------



## thebigrobbyrob

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Syrillian* 
Imho, it is worth sleeving the entire length of the cable: _The truth is in the details._


Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
I would always have in the back of my mind that there is some ugliness hidden away inside my pc!

Not really sure why I asked becuase the perfectionist in me cant do a half job. Its all or nothing. Thanks guys! Ill be placing the order some time in the next day or 2 then ill post pics when the work is finished.

Update: Pulled the trigger!! Hope it gets here soon.


----------



## jacobroufa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thebigrobbyrob*


Not really sure why I asked becuase the perfectionist in me cant do a half job. Its all or nothing. Thanks guys! Ill be placing the order some time in the next day or 2 then ill post pics when the work is finished.


Thats the spirit Rob! Go all out! The real beauty lies in what you know you did, not necessarily what everyone sees. I'm the same way man! Just be sure to post a thread detailing your adventures. Or just post some final pics here.


----------



## thebigrobbyrob

FYI, for everyone that thinks MDPC-X may be expensive because of the euro/dollar exchange should check out google finance. You should pull the trigger before it gets back to ratio goes back to 1.5









Euro to USD


----------



## SmasherBasher

So where can you get 1/8, 3/16, or 1/4" WHITE sleeving that isn't see through without spending $90 for it?


----------



## fshizl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*


So where can you get 1/8, 3/16, or 1/4" WHITE sleeving that isn't see through without spending $90 for it?


Lol I just spent 110 on my mdpc sleeving with heat shrink.

Smasher if you want black. You can get the clean cut from furryletters on eBay.


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*


So where can you get 1/8, 3/16, or 1/4" WHITE sleeving that isn't see through without spending $90 for it?


The trick with White sleeving is to wrap the cables with white electrical tape before you sleeve them. Even with mdpc White you still see the colours through it unless you do this


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


The trick with White sleeving is to wrap the cables with white electrical tape before you sleeve them. Even with mdpc White you still see the colours through it unless you do this


Or like I did (and said earlier in the thread) spray painting your wires white so they match.

Though; I considered before hand just getting custom length 16AWG wire that was white before hand. 
But the whole Solder/desolder part of it was really annoying the last time I had to so I gave up on it.

I'm thinking about doing it for my current PSU though, since I don't need to open the unit up; as it's fully modular


----------



## Lost-boi

Instead of spray painting the wires or electrical taping them just rewire the whole PSU and do it right.
Yes it takes longer but its well worth it IMO.


----------



## Yogi

Guess my sleeving came, but I wasn't home







. Now I gotta go pick it up.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lost-boi* 
Instead of spray painting the wires or electrical taping them just rewire the whole PSU and do it right.
Yes it takes longer but its well worth it IMO.

It's not a very easy job. But if you have a fully modular PSU; it's pretty easy, as you just change over one connector at a time. And don't have to worry about opening the unit up.


----------



## MeatloafOverdose

I ordered sunday from Koolertek, and my order arrived today! (priority shipping)

I purchased there sleeve in various sizes and lengths along with the 3:1 heatshrink.

There 1/8ths sleeve is 1/8th OD, so it fits super snug on single wires, it is smaller than mdpc-x and cleancut. I purchased black,red,white and blue sleeve in 1/8th. Red is more of a translucent red..bummed about that. It isn't bright at all (however there pictures prove that) Its like a raspberry color.
The white is seathru ..but not very bad at all for the price, As a perfectionist..im happy with it for the price.. Black is great, and so is the blue. These measure 2.50mm outside diameter.

MDPC-X is better..but hey I cant order it every time with the large orders Id like to do..as shipping is half the cost of my main order! not Nils fault..just the way international shipping is.

I got 1/8th 3:1 heat shrink from them also. You do have to stretch it for it to fit koolerteks 1/8th sleeve, but it does fit snug once heated. I will be ordering more in 1/4 inch however, or 3/16ths 3:1 from ebay.

Collapsed 









Collapsed









Here is a quick 6 pin to molex I did using the sleeve.

As you can see, white sleeve over black wires, makes white sleeve worse than what it is, it can be reduced by using the above tips (paint or rewiring, wraping them with elec. tape makes things gooey and thick/stiff)


----------



## mastical

Not bad for my first time. It not too hard at all just takes some time. I might redo some of that heatshrink, Im still learning but i think i did an ok job.

I did the 8pin, and 3 6pin. Tomorrow ill start the 24 pin and other 6pin.

























What do you think?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastical*


Not bad for my first time. It not too hard at all just takes some time. I might redo some of that heatshrink, Im still learning but i think i did an ok job.

I did the 8pin, and 3 6pin. Tomorrow ill start the 24 pin and other 6pin.

*snip*

What do you think?


I think it's pretty good. One thing to try in future is cutting the pieces of heatshrink to the same length so that once they're on the wire and you shrink 'em, they all line up on the cable







Other than that, great job!


----------



## mastical

They are the same length but I have a hard time keeping the heatshrink half on the sleeve and half on the wire. Thanks for the input.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mastical* 
They are the same length but I have a hard time keeping the heatshrink half on the sleeve and half on the wire. Thanks for the input.

Best way that I've found to do it is the put the heatshrink on the cables and shrink them about 50% Then you can make a few adjustments and line them all up before finishing the job.


----------



## Yogi

No warranty voided here!










Just to test out my camera. Takes pretty good pics for how old/cheap it is.


Finished off two 6 pins, 8 pin, and a molex. Ill get pics of those tomorrow.


----------



## KShirza1

update


----------



## Yogi

None of my pics turned out very good :/


----------



## MijnWraak

Try taking pictures outside or on a window sill in non-direct sunlight (if it's cloudy out, perfect!)







helped me tons.


----------



## Yogi

It was overcast, but I didnt want to move my psu


----------



## kidwolf909

On average, how much sleeving do you guys buy to do a whole PSU? I have an older mostly-modular Sunbeam NUUO that I want to try sleeving before getting into my main rig. I see that MDPC gives you 30m of sleeve, 3m of heatshrink, 5m of SATA sleeve, and .7m of SATA heatshrink in their kit.

Would you guys go by these recommendations or is it too much or too little? I'm looking to do mostly black with some red accent wires for about 1/3 of the sleeving. So I was thinking 20m of black, 2m of black heatshrink, 10m of red sleeve, and 1m of red heatshrink.

Does this sound adequate?

Thanks!


----------



## Yogi

Anyone else with a Corsair have trouble with the 24 pin? Trying to get out the +4 cables and they won't budge.


----------



## jacobroufa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
None of my pics turned out very good :/

OH shut up Yogi.







But seriously, they're pretty good. In photochop or the GIMP, you could try messing with the white balance to where the background is white as it should be. That might change things a bit. Or do what Mijn suggested and get more natural light. Hell, even take it outside and shoot some with some good natural lighting.


----------



## Yogi

I meant the ones with the cables, that first pic was the only one that you could see anything. I dont have photoshop and I have no idea how to use gimp.

None of my 24 pins are coming out







going to bed now.


----------



## fshizl

Satas done with mdpc sleeving and heatshrink...


----------



## mastical

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
Anyone else with a Corsair have trouble with the 24 pin? Trying to get out the +4 cables and they won't budge.

Im currently working on my 24 pin. No problems at all so far. Try swearing at it!?


----------



## ghettogeddy

i need some better shrink tube whats the best


----------



## DJLiquid

mdpc-x is the best


----------



## ghettogeddy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DJLiquid* 
mdpc-x is the best

i think thats what i have but it did not shrink worth jack


----------



## DJLiquid

really? I'm pretty sure mdpc-x uses 4:1 ratio heat shrink.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ghettogeddy*


i think thats what i have but it did not shrink worth jack


then it's not mdpc-x







the only shrink better is like $100 a foot!


----------



## Yogi

Just gotta wiggle it a bit. 4 down 20 to go!

Just to make sure, do I have to put each wire back into the same hole or cane like any orange wire can go into the 3.3v hole?


----------



## jacobroufa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yogi*


Just gotta wiggle it a bit. 4 down 20 to go!

Just to make sure, do I have to put each wire back into the same hole or cane like any orange wire can go into the 3.3v hole?


The color is what matters, as that tells what voltage runs through what line.


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r




----------



## jacobroufa

Sick sleeving job Martin!


----------



## tlxxxsracer

What do you guys say is the length needed for the heatshrink? Do you put some heat shrink underneath the sleeving to let it grip onto?


----------



## Tribulex

i found nice sleeving for cheaper than mdpc when u count the shipping. Mdpc sells special sata-sized sleeving, but if i wanted to chose an actual size what size do i need? 1/4th inch? are these sizes diameter?

oh also maybe this isnt the right place for this, but where should i buy the cabling itself to make my own custom-length cabling? what type of cable should i look for?


----------



## Dualbrain

Martin: That's the way we love it! Perfection at its best









Tlxxxxxetc.: Depends on so many aspects. If you have a pin at the position, you can shrink onto the pin and need about 12 to 15mm. If you have no pin, there is no real rule. Just experiment and find out what works best for you.


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jacobroufa*


Sick sleeving job Martin!










Thanks Jacob









Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


What do you guys say is the length needed for the heatshrink? Do you put some heat shrink underneath the sleeving to let it grip onto?


I use 0.6" (about 15mm) segments. No need for heatshrink underneath the sleeving, unless the wire insulation is very thin.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dualbrain*


Martin: That's the way we love it! Perfection at its best









Tlxxxxxetc.: Depends on so many aspects. If you have a pin at the position, you can shrink onto the pin and need about 12 to 15mm. If you have no pin, there is no real rule. Just experiment and find out what works best for you.


Thanks Nils


----------



## cbrazeau1115

Wow, I love your patern for the red-black, I think I may need to steal that pattern from you!


----------



## Yogi

So I just measured and it looks like I dont have enough sleeving








Gunna have to get some furry letters to finish it off.


----------



## KShirza1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r*





































simply wow!


----------



## thebigrobbyrob

got my package Munich last night







, ripped out the PSU this morning, now hopefully ill finish by late next week (with pics, of course).


----------



## asherz

Some great pictures on here, really inspirational.

I've been dying to do a sleeve mod since I joined this forum, and think it's about time I actually got round to doing it.

Hopefully I can place an order for the raven 2 and H50 cooler this week and get the sleeving mod going.

Can't decide on an all black, or with red highlights like on the pictures a few posts back (looking amazing btw.)

I have a maximus formula II, so red trim should look nice.


----------



## mastical

^^^ use red and black. I just finished mine and now I wish I would have used a color. Black is nice but kind of plain.


----------



## MijnWraak

Red and black is too common, IMO. What about gray and red? or white and red?


----------



## fshizl




----------



## b0klau

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r* 

















My god.. how do you make it so straight.. Do you has a tutorial or something?


----------



## hugo19941994

Hi,

I have never done any cable sleeving but I am interested in it since a long time. I'm planning on doeing each cable individually - to get my full rig done how much cable should I get aprox.? Can I only buy the smaller sleeves for each individual cable (1/8" right?)? Do I need to buy any tool at all or can I do it with my bare hands and scissors? Is buying from MDPC worth it or should I buy from Furryletters?

On my mind I had planned to buy this and 3 meters of small cable shrink form MDPC + 5 meters of SATA sleeving and 0.7 meters of Sata heatshrink form MDPC.

Thanks!


----------



## Tribulex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *b0klau*


My god.. how do you make it so straight.. Do you has a tutorial or something?










you just line up the heatshrink very carefully. Helps if you cut them all to the exact same size. I actually found a few places online that sell them precut into certain lengths, might try that


----------



## mastical

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hugo19941994*


Hi,

I have never done any cable sleeving but I am interested in it since a long time. I'm planning on doeing each cable individually - to get my full rig done how much cable should I get aprox.? Can I only buy the smaller sleeves for each individual cable (1/8" right?)? Do I need to buy any tool at all or can I do it with my bare hands and scissors? Is buying from MDPC worth it or should I buy from Furryletters?

On my mind I had planned to buy this and 3 meters of small cable shrink form MDPC + 5 meters of SATA sleeving and 0.7 meters of Sata heatshrink form MDPC.

Thanks!


I bought 150' of 1/8" from furryletters and i have about 25 left over after doing the 24 pin, 8pin 4 6pins and about 6 fans.

1/8 is for single sleeving.

youll need a lighter, candle or heatgun.
Sharp scissors.
Sharpie.
I used the sunbeam sleeve tool kit. It worked awesome but be very careful with it.

MDPC is nice but I wasnt willing to spend the extra money, thats just me tho.
IF your going to buy the sata sleeve n shrink from there you might as well buy it all from MDPC.

Watch videos on youtube before starting your project, itll help abunch.

Hope this helps.


----------



## Detroitsoldier

Fshizl, I love what you did with the orange tubing. It's nice to see someone taking a break from the usual colors and going bold. I myself have a Gigabyte motherboard and the bright blue really sticks out. With a black case, I'm not sure what exact colors of tubing/sleeving I should use. I was thinking bright blue to match the mobo, but thinking about it now, that would not do well.


----------



## hugo19941994

Quote:

I bought 150' of 1/8" from furryletters and i have about 25 left over after doing the 24 pin, 8pin 4 6pins and about 6 fans.

1/8 is for single sleeving.

youll need a lighter, candle or heatgun.
Sharp scissors.
Sharpie.
I used the sunbeam sleeve tool kit. It worked awesome but be very careful with it.

MDPC is nice but I wasnt willing to spend the extra money, thats just me tho.
IF your going to buy the sata sleeve n shrink from there you might as well buy it all from MDPC.

Watch videos on youtube before starting your project, itll help abunch.

Hope this helps.
Thanks a bunch for the info! I will purchase 1/8" then.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*












'ey my colors! haha. Is that orange sleeve just a sample? I've got 10m of orange left I can send ya if you realize you want more for your build


----------



## XxG3nexX

I just put together a sleeving kit for my 1000hx and a few sata cables. Did I miss anything? Do I need to order more sleeving?

Edit: 
30 meters black sleeve
3 meters black heat shrink
5 meters white sata sleeve
about 1 meter white sata shrink
20 meters white sleeve
2 meters white heat shrink


----------



## hugo19941994

3Sleeve SMALL - GRAND BLEU
1Sleeve SATA - GRAND BLEU
3Heatshrink SMALL - BLACK
1Heatshrink SATA - BLACK
1Pin-Remover by MOLEX - The Original

I ordered these form MDPC-X for about 70â‚¬ - I hope 30 meters of cable is enough... If it's not I will order more later on, I have all summer









I only have 4 sata cable and are quite short. I think 5 meters is more than enough. We will see soon.

I still have one dought though... Do I have to open up my PSU to sleeve the cables or can I just us the heatshrink where it starts?


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
'ey my colors! haha. Is that orange sleeve just a sample? I've got 10m of orange left I can send ya if you realize you want more for your build









I only sleeved the satas with my orange. The power supply in blue and gray. The orange is nils sending me samples lol. I got white and green lol.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

The new purple sleeve:




























Beautiful stuff really. Will have to find a use other than photos for it someday


----------



## mastical

Whats the best way to keeps my 6pin wires organized without using zipties?

I notticed that Enermax PSU's come with special tires to keep them organized.

Im finished with my sleeving but Im not happy with my heatshrink so i ordered some from MDPC and also some blue 1/8 to spice it up a little.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastical*


Whats the best way to keeps my 6pin wires organized without using zipties?

I notticed that Enermax PSU's come with special tires to keep them organized.

Im finished with my sleeving but Im not happy with my heatshrink so i ordered some from MDPC and also some blue 1/8 to spice it up a little.











Train the cable with zip ties. Give it a week with them on, then cut the zip ties off.


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


The new purple sleeve:










Beautiful stuff really. Will have to find a use other than photos for it someday










Awesome hands again lmao


----------



## MijnWraak

There's a female among us! -shifty eyes-

haha.

i'm joking. there are no such things as "females".


----------



## oliverw92

Inside joke - her hands are famous on OCN


----------



## [Lg.C]G8R

Who can I pay to sleeve my psu? Its a Kingwin mach 1 1220. I would like black with blue heat shrinks


----------



## b0klau

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tribulex* 
you just line up the heatshrink very carefully. Helps if you cut them all to the exact same size. I actually found a few places online that sell them precut into certain lengths, might try that









Yes, I know you cut the heatshrink to the exact same size.. I'm talking about when you stick the pin back into the connector. Sometimes it doesn't come out to be as perfect as Crys1s_Gam3r's for me


----------



## Xien16




----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[Lg.C]G8R* 
Who can I pay to sleeve my psu? Its a Kingwin mach 1 1220. I would like black with blue heat shrinks

Performance-PCs offer a sleeving service.


----------



## Yogi

Got my Furry letters in.

Piece of fuzz on the left, Furry in the middle, and MDPC on the right 


Furry


----------



## Shane1244

Is it me? Or does Furry's look better?


----------



## oliverw92

Yogi, can we have a pic with all 3 pieces in one picture? That top one only has two types in it, which are they?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Furry's sleeving is a little bit bigger than the MDPC stuff as I have found. Not by much though







I actually quite like his black sleeving, but I'd never buy anything other than MDPC for colour.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Yogi, can we have a pic with all 3 pieces in one picture? That top one only has two types in it, which are they?

D: "piece of fuzz" is the little white thing


----------



## godofdeath

can we get a flatter mdpc with the furry so the look more or less the same in the pics


----------



## Yogi

What do you mean godofdeath? Im a bit confused.

I like MDPCs more. The longer weave makes it look better.


----------



## thebigrobbyrob

Well I have finished sleeving the case and fans (mostly for the sake of practice







) and should be finished with the PSU in the next few days. The initial pics arent great (neither is my initial workmanship, lol) but i though i would post them anyways. Ill be using my wifes awesome camera for the completed PSU pics

Back of the case:










Main area:










also, I decided not to sleeve the USB cables becuase the contrast of the gray looks kinda cool, IMO.


----------



## Pipesafa

My final result, not too pro but is my first try XD


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r




----------



## Shane1244

That green and grey is SOOOO sick.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Ohhhh god, Martin, you make me wish I had got grey and green instead of black and green. That's the most amazing sleeve combo I've ever seen.


----------



## Tribulex

wow i love this thread what have you done now im going to send all my monie to europe


----------



## ryand

I just ordered a load of sleeving from MDPC, going with a green and black combo sort of like Martins. Will be my first attempt too, hope it is worth it.


----------



## cyberghost

Hello, I stumbled across this thread while looking for tips to use on my own upcoming sleeving project. I had been planning on simply sleeving the them in bundles, however, after seeing how great the individually sleeved wires look I have decided to give individual sleeving a shot.

The only question that I hope someone can help me with is how to go about sleeving and heat shrinking on the PSU side. Although my PSU is of modular design the 24pin is still hardwired and I was wondering how to sleeve up to the PSU as the 24pin wire bundle is so tightly packed coming out of the unit that I don't believe that I will be able to get any heat shrink through the hole. I am curious to know how others have dealt with this issue as I have seen few images or comments on sleeving the PSU side.

Thank you in advance for any insight you can render


----------



## mastical

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cyberghost*


Hello, I stumbled across this thread while looking for tips to use on my own upcoming sleeving project. I had been planning on simply sleeving the them in bundles, however, after seeing how great the individually sleeved wires look I have decided to give individual sleeving a shot.

The only question that I hope someone can help me with is how to go about sleeving and heat shrinking on the PSU side. Although my PSU is of modular design the 24pin is still hardwired and I was wondering how to sleeve up to the PSU as the 24pin wire bundle is so tightly packed coming out of the unit that I don't believe that I will be able to get any heat shrink through the hole. I am curious to know how others have dealt with this issue as I have seen few images or comments on sleeving the PSU side.

Thank you in advance for any insight you can render


Welcome to OCN.

Alot of people open the PSU and just run the sleeve inside the psu hole.

I just got my heatshrink as close to the hole as possible, itll look like a crazy pony tail but thats just how it is, unless theres abetter way that i havent sen yet.


----------



## noob.deagle

well after reading this thread i suddenly feel inspired to do this myself









i was thinking on Grey and Aquamarine blue has any one done this combination yet ? there is alot of black / blue not many seem to be giving love to grey


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *noob.deagle* 
well after reading this thread i suddenly feel inspired to do this myself









i was thinking on Grey and Aquamarine blue has any one done this combination yet ? there is alot of black / blue not many seem to be giving love to grey









yes! I just sold a psu with that combo









I liked it a LOT! but I wish they had gray heatshrink







and maybe a more bold color than aquamarine would be in order. absolutely loved the gray though!


----------



## noob.deagle

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
yes! I just sold a psu with that combo









I liked it a LOT! but I wish they had gray heatshrink







and maybe a more bold color than aquamarine would be in order. absolutely loved the gray though!

EXCELLENT! that's what i like to hear









only issue now is the cost.......gonna be 130AUD for everything i want







damn our cruddy currency!

Edit: i think my dads work has grey heat shrink .... even bigger win!


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *noob.deagle* 
EXCELLENT! that's what i like to hear









only issue now is the cost.......gonna be 130AUD for everything i want







damn our cruddy currency!

Edit: i think my dads work has grey heat shrink .... even bigger win!

I'd still go with the MDPC shrink. It's 4:1 shrink ratio and extremely thin wall is perfect for sleeving. What's most common is 1:2 and a thick wall, unfortunately.


----------



## noob.deagle

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


I'd still go with the MDPC shrink. It's 4:1 shrink ratio and extremely thin wall is perfect for sleeving. What's most common is 1:2 and a thick wall, unfortunately.










up goes the price lol.

i was going to get 2 lots of small grey sleeve and 1 lot of aquamarine will i need more for a complete system re-sleeve ?


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *noob.deagle*









up goes the price lol.

i was going to get 2 lots of small grey sleeve and 1 lot of aquamarine will i need more for a complete system re-sleeve ?


I got the same amount (2 gray 1 aqua) and I THINK I'd have had enough to do most of the PSU. I think I'd want 10m of extra heatshrink though, because I threw out a lot of the cuts because they were uneven or not straight cuts. I also got 10m of orange to do fans and I/O case cables, so you might want to factor that in as well


----------



## B-roca

Man I really want to single sleeve my HX 550 it would look sweet I also want to sleeve me Sennheiser 201's w/ Zalman clip-on mic but I don't have the time money or skill


----------



## noob.deagle

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


I got the same amount (2 gray 1 aqua) and I THINK I'd have had enough to do most of the PSU. I think I'd want 10m of extra heatshrink though, because I threw out a lot of the cuts because they were uneven or not straight cuts. I also got 10m of orange to do fans and I/O case cables, so you might want to factor that in as well










well i hate my psu cable setup there is way too much in it and makes my full size haf 922 look cluttered







im planning on shuffling the Sata connections around so its all on a single line unfortunately my psu only has one pci-e power and i need 2 so i may have to sus out a 2nd proper plug instead of using the splitter. so after the reshuffle it should hopefully be enough

yeah i was going to get orange for Sata (or maybe yellow) i guess ill just get the same colour for extra bits

im really excited to do this .... need to paint the interior of my case to to really set it off


----------



## fshizl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *noob.deagle*


well after reading this thread i suddenly feel inspired to do this myself









i was thinking on Grey and Aquamarine blue has any one done this combination yet ? there is alot of black / blue not many seem to be giving love to grey










If you wait till tuesday you can see mine lol.


----------



## noob.deagle

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
If you wait till tuesday you can see mine lol.









guess ill wait then you can be my official pre purchase tester


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *noob.deagle* 







guess ill wait then you can be my official pre purchase tester









fosho.. lol










a little teaser... my psu comes in monday, i should have a lot of it done by 4 am lol... and onto tuesday too..


----------



## noob.deagle

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
fosho.. lol

a little teaser... my psu comes in monday, i should have a lot of it done by 4 am lol... and onto tuesday too..

have you decided on a pattern yet ?


----------



## fshizl

i was just thinking every other... but im probably gonna go with
b=blue
g=gray
24 pin :b/b/g/g/b/g/g/b/g/g/b/b
for the 6 pins, every other, so blue/gray/blue.
for the 8 pin blue/gray/gray/blue
sata: blue/gray/blue/gray/blue


----------



## shinji2k

How's my cable management


----------



## noob.deagle

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


i was just thinking every other... but im probably gonna go with
b=blue
g=gray
24 pin :b/b/g/g/b/g/g/b/g/g/b/b
for the 6 pins, every other, so blue/gray/blue.
for the 8 pin blue/gray/gray/blue
sata: blue/gray/blue/gray/blue


well your using blue more than i intended to, i look forward to seeing the result.


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shinji2k*


How's my cable management































I want!


----------



## mastical

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shinji2k* 
How's my cable management










I just read your whole work log, Amazing.


----------



## Imglidinhere

Wow... This thread is perfect! I was searching out the ass on Google and Bing and couldn't find what I needed.







Gonna do a bit of white sleeving and gonna end it up with black heatshrinks. ^^

Now All I need are a few ways in order to keep my cables managed. ^^


----------



## DrunkenMonkies

I love this thread. Anyone have any pictures of the green and grey in a case installed?


----------



## fshizl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DrunkenMonkies*


I love this thread. Anyone have any pictures of the green and grey in a case installed?


most likely crysis gamer might have some pictures...


----------



## B-roca

Hi Guys I need some advice!.

Ireally want to sleeve my headphone cable it looks horrible at the moment because I have one of those zalman clip on mics and it looks really messy. I have never done any sleeving before and I don't have very much money as I just got a Phenom II and i'm painting my HAF 932 next week (WOOOO!!!







)
The headphones are Sennheiser 201's and the cable is around 3 meters long and splits into 2 at the end and the Zalman Mic runs halfway up the right hand split. How much would it cost to sleeve it?.

EDIT;: FORGOT TO MENTION I"M FROM NEW ZEALAND!!!


----------



## Tribulex

http://www.buyheatshrink.com/braided...tifilament.htm

Is this stuff any good? I have tried to contact them and havent gotten a reply yet. I am interested mostly because it is white. Also if i do end up buying this, 1000 ft is kind of alot eh? anyone want to buy some?


----------



## 88EVGAFTW




----------



## SmasherBasher

Frys sleeving FTW. $6 for 20 feet.


----------



## Tribulex

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher* 
Frys sleeving FTW. $6 for 20 feet.

look at my post above, thats 1000 ft for 60 bucks. better deal

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tribulex* 
http://www.buyheatshrink.com/braided...tifilament.htm

Is this stuff any good? I have tried to contact them and havent gotten a reply yet. I am interested mostly because it is white. Also if i do end up buying this, 1000 ft is kind of alot eh? anyone want to buy some?


----------



## mastical

I got my blue sleeve in from MDPC and added a few today.










Comments?


----------



## cyberghost

Thanks for the advice mastical.
I decided to go ahead and crack open my PSU and run the sleeving inside. It made for a bit of a tight fit through the hole, but once I removed the rubber grommet I managed to squeeze them all through.
Although the sleeving did make an overall improvement in look and organization I was rather disappointed with the finer points or my work, mainly centering around the 24pin connections where the thickness of the heatshrink forced me to back the end of my sleeving back 1-2cm on several wires in order for all of them to fit, resulting in a rather sloppy appearance. I imagine this problem is not as much of an issue with higher quality heatshrink as opposed to mine which was from Frys.
All in all though, I am quite satisfied with the results, as this was only intended to be a practice attempt for when I upgrade my PSU in a few months. At that time I plan to order the "good stuff" from MDPC, and figure that it was worth the minor expense now to get a bit of experience for the main event.
A few tips for anyone else who is making a first attempt at this:

- Make sure to let heatshrink cool before handling the wiring or sleeving too much as I found that it was far too easy to accidentally dislodge the heatshrink while the adhesive was still setting.

- Make sure you leave a "Buffer" in measuring for sleeving. It makes little sense to have your sleeving go from just against the PSU to the base of the socket. I generally left between 1/4 to 1/2 an inch on the PSU side (1 in long piece of heatshrink), and around 1/8 of an inch on the socket side (7/16 in long piece of heatshrink). This leaves room for the heatshrink to contract a little bit length wise, while still leaving enough room for the heatshrink to grip both the sleeving and the wire.
DISCLAIMER: This is just the method I used, and as i mentioned the results were less than perfect, experiment a few times on extension cables and such to fins your own preferred method.

The Materials: (All from Frys)

80 ft 1/8 in Clean Cut PET sleeving (6.99ea)
4 pkg 6in(x4) 3/16 in Adhesive Lined Heatshrink (~2.50ea)
Hand-held "wand type" Heat gun (quite handy for getting difficult angles) (~15.00 I believe).

Well that is all, thanks again for the assistance mastical, and thank you to everyone else for providing such a great idea for my case customization.

-------------
Soupy Twist!


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tribulex* 
look at my post above, thats 1000 ft for 60 bucks. better deal

PET sleeving is see through. Clean Cut is what you want, or MDPC sleeving.

The Fray Resistant looks like it will work also, it is triple braided.
http://www.buyheatshrink.com/braided...d-sleeving.htm


----------



## Tribulex

NO its nylon multifilament. No one on this forum seems to know what that is but its epic pwnage cloth-like material that imo pwns mdpc.

also pic from their site









looks kind of see through, but pretty close. Could be very convincing, esp if you paint ur cables underneath


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tribulex* 
No one on this forum seems to know what that is but its epic pwnage cloth-like material that imo pwns mdpc.

I don't want shoe strings on my PSU, thank you very much. It doesn't stretch either, and I really don't like the way it looks.


----------



## Tribulex

yeah that is one of my concerns is the stretchiness. But i guess thats not really an issue with psu cables. Sata however will be difficult...

Also i cant justify spending so much money to ship cable sleeving to america. Im not made of dough atm....

if nylon multifilament are "shoe strings" then what are mdpc shiny plastic thigns?


----------



## Lutro0

Wow, I think I just spent about an hour reading this whole thread.
For myself, I just purchased 125 feet of Clean Cut 1/8 from Furryletters, they also emailed me and let me know they sell 3/16 heatshrink (not listed on ebay). Althou it is 2:1 it looks to fit just fine, I left on vaca before I could get started (yes im reading forums on my vaca







), all of my parts should be waiting for me when I get back. Ill post pics when I get it done. My only concern right now would be that the heatshrink would be lame. (not fit in the connector and not be tight) So we will see.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *b-roca*


Hi Guys I need some advice!.

Ireally want to sleeve my headphone cable it looks horrible at the moment because I have one of those zalman clip on mics and it looks really messy. I have never done any sleeving before and I don't have very much money as I just got a Phenom II and i'm painting my HAF 932 next week (WOOOO!!!







)
The headphones are Sennheiser 201's and the cable is around 3 meters long and splits into 2 at the end and the Zalman Mic runs halfway up the right hand split. How much would it cost to sleeve it?.

EDIT;: FORGOT TO MENTION I"M FROM NEW ZEALAND!!!


Hey I'm from NZ too














It shouldn't cost too much to sleeve. Look for a guy called Furryletters on eBay and grab some of his 1/8" sleeve. You'll spend roughly $10 (including shipping) and get enough to sleeve that cable. (I have the same headphones too) As for heatshrink, a seller called genuinedealz on eBay sells 1/8" 3:1 ratio heatshrink that will work just fine for that. Again, roughly only around $10 for the heatshrink including shipping and it will be more than enough for the job.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Wow, I think I just spent about an hour reading this whole thread.
For myself, I just purchased 125 feet of Clean Cut 1/8 from Furryletters, they also emailed me and let me know they sell 3/16 heatshrink (not listed on ebay). Althou it is 2:1 it looks to fit just fine, I left on vaca before I could get started (yes im reading forums on my vaca







), all of my parts should be waiting for me when I get back. Ill post pics when I get it done. My only concern right now would be that the heatshrink would be lame. (not fit in the connector and not be tight) So we will see.


I just switched from 3:1 to 4:1 heatshrink as I couldn't get the pins back into the connectors. The 4:1 shrinks very tightly and fits like a glove. Very little extra bulk around the cable as opposed to the 3:1 so your 2:1 may or may not fit. You'll really have to wait and see haha.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


I just switched from 3:1 to 4:1 heatshrink as I couldn't get the pins back into the connectors. The 4:1 shrinks very tightly and fits like a glove. Very little extra bulk around the cable as opposed to the 3:1 so your 2:1 may or may not fit. You'll really have to wait and see haha.


Where do you get your 4:1, I could just save myself the headache and buy it now lol!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Where do you get your 4:1, I could just save myself the headache and buy it now lol!


MDPC-X.com. Best heatshrink I've ever used as it has quite a thin wall.


----------



## j0n3z3y

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
MDPC-X.com. Best heatshrink I've ever used as it has quite a thin wall.









The thin wall is very important when your sleeving 4/6/8/24 pin connectors. It allows you to cover the wire all the way down to the end of the crimp and still be able to slide the pin into place.

Unlike alot of the 2:1-3:1 which has a wall thickness too large to do that with. The lower ratio thick wall will leave color exposed if you start looking very closely at the connectors. Hope that helps kidz


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *j0n3z3y* 







The thin wall is very important when your sleeving 4/6/8/24 pin connectors. It allows you to cover the wire all the way down to the end of the crimp and still be able to slide the pin into place.

Unlike alot of the 2:1-3:1 which has a wall thickness too large to do that with. The lower ratio thick wall will leave color exposed if you start looking very closely at the connectors. Hope that helps kidz









Couldn't have said it better myself! Heatshrink is crucial to a good sleeving job and MDPC shrink really is the best.


----------



## j0n3z3y

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Couldn't have said it better myself! Heatshrink is crucial to a good sleeving job and MDPC shrink really is the best.

Danke


----------



## Tribulex

yeah. Its all a reasonable price too i just wish they opened up a shop in North america. would be nice to save on the shipping. We should set up something here on ocn to syncronize shipments from europe so they come all at once.


----------



## MIH

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tribulex*


yeah. Its all a reasonable price too i just wish they opened up a shop in North america. would be nice to save on the shipping. We should set up something here on ocn to syncronize shipments from europe so they come all at once.


They sort of do...http://www.murdermod.com/ but its not taking any orders at the moment due to a problem with the supply of the other case modding stuff they sell. Only down side is that as far as I can see they only sell the black MDPC sleeve.

Thought I would also share my first sleeving attempt as well









































































This is all clean-cut sleeve.

Have just placed my order for MDPC sleeve, as will be upgrading my PSU in the near future. MDPC ftw


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MIH*


They sort of do...http://www.murdermod.com/ but its not taking any orders at the moment due to a problem with the supply of the other case modding stuff they sell. Only down side is that as far as I can see they only sell the black MDPC sleeve.

Thought I would also share my sleeving efforts as well









*snip*


Very nice! Looks tidy


----------



## MIH

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Very nice! Looks tidy










Thanks spider...I like you build log btw... nice to see the polishing of capacitors is catching on (i haven't done yet, but will on next one) saw it first on Ferhan's EVGA.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MIH* 
Thanks spider...I like you build log btw... nice to see the polishing of capacitors is catching on (i haven't done yet, but will on next one) saw it first on Ferhan's EVGA.

Thanks! Cap polishing really does wonders for a board in terms of aesthetics. I have to shield my eyes whenever I see a board that hasn't had it done lol. I don't think I'll ever own another board without first polishing its caps


----------



## Tribulex

um how exactly do you do that? Also the point is just to remove the plastic casing/paint? I think it would be cool to repaint them a new color


----------



## Tribulex

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MIH* 
They sort of do...http://www.murdermod.com/ but its not taking any orders at the moment due to a problem with the supply of the other case modding stuff they sell. Only down side is that as far as I can see they only sell the black MDPC sleeve.

Have just placed my order for MDPC sleeve, as will be upgrading my PSU in the near future. MDPC ftw

http://www.murdermod.com/sleeving-ki...eeve-black.htm

25 usd for 50 feet of sleeving. That is very expensive, probably not enough to sleeve all my wires either! I think I am going to buy a 1000ft spool of white nylon multi.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tribulex*


um how exactly do you do that? Also the point is just to remove the plastic casing/paint? I think it would be cool to repaint them a new color










Yes, it's just removing the exterior grey paint that has been applied, to reveal the casing underneath. All it requires is a bit of acetone and very gentle rubbing. The paint typically comes off within 5 seconds on the fatter capacitors. However I still haven't been able to remove the paint from the taller, thinner capacitors. It seems to be much more stubborn.

Another method of removing the paint is to use some metal polish and then buff it with a dremel. This gives the caps a mirror finish.


----------



## MIH

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tribulex*


http://www.murdermod.com/sleeving-ki...eeve-black.htm

25 usd for 50 feet of sleeving. That is very expensive, probably not enough to sleeve all my wires either! I think I am going to buy a 1000ft spool of white nylon multi.


You could get this one insteaad http://www.murdermod.com/sleeving-ki...-sociopack.htm

To sleeve a PSUs 24pin MB cable, 2x8 pin MB power supply, and one GPU (12-14 cables)...i.e. total of ~54 cables you need about 29m, or about 95ft. That would be US$50 from murder mod, or 23.85euro which is ~US$36.85. The thing to remember is that these 2 options include ~5-6ft of heat shrink as well, and to be perfectly honest, give a far superior result. Just depends on what you are after, and the price you are willing to pay to build your ultimate rig.

I was quite happy with my SATA cables as they are currently sheathed (in standard blue PET sleeve), as i painted the cables black first so the results looked ok with the cable showing through. With the amount of work I'm putting into to redoing my rig, I want to achieve a higher standard, so am willing to pay extra for the best. Don't think there is a right or wrong....just get what you think is appropriate to your build and/or budget.


----------



## j0n3z3y

As we all know MurderMod isn't taking orders. However,I've been discussing w/ a friend the possibility of him picking up MDPC sleeving/heatshrink and stocking it stateside.

Just to help him out...I told him I'd test the waters for interest. So,anyone interested?


----------



## Tribulex

Yes, since shipping is the only thing preventing me from buying mdpc. And get this rolling NOW so i can get my cables sleeved in mdpc before i showcase my rig to some friends who will be visiting in 2 weeks


----------



## j0n3z3y

I think I may have posted this at the wrong time







No ones seen it apparently.


----------



## fshizl

i dont know how the owner of the company would feel about that....


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


i dont know how the owner of the company would feel about that....



Quote:



The family pack is now combined with 20 meters of the original "out of this world" 4:1 MDPC SMALL-heatshrink, *because I don't want to see that people resell MDPC-sleeve with different (bad) heatshrink* and damage the reputation of MDPC-quality by doing this.


source

he realizes that people are going to resell his stuff. no big deal. he still gets money. we lose out because of shipping so it doesnt affect him much


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:



Originally Posted by *j0n3z3y*


I think I may have posted this at the wrong time







No ones seen it apparently.


I'd buy some for sure. I've been wanting to sleeve my PSU or a new Strider Plus, but the $18 shipping is a tad ludicrous.


----------



## mastical

Id buy some for sure.


----------



## fshizl

Eh I'd still buy from him. Shipping is only 11.50 for me and I'm in Cali.


----------



## Tribulex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *j0n3z3y*


As we all know MurderMod isn't taking orders. However,I've been discussing w/ a friend the possibility of him picking up MDPC sleeving/heatshrink and stocking it stateside.

Just to help him out...I told him I'd test the waters for interest. So,anyone interested?










Interested


----------



## j0n3z3y

My friend is waiting on a response from MDPC. He's trying to get dealer status now,I'll pass along the word as soon as he's approved and gets his 1st shipment


----------



## Xien16

Nils doesn't give anything to resellers, because "MDPC is more than just a product" - as everyone knows who ever bought from him. He doesn't like the simple mentality of people to just buy something and sell it for more. *He never responds to resellers.* He also states this philosophy in "about MDPC-X". Therefore: Your reseller-friend can wait for a reply ... but will never get one.


----------



## kidwolf909

Good afternoon guys.

I'm looking to get my feet wet in the sleeving game, but I don't want to spend a fortune to sleeve my crappy OCZ PSU. Therefore, I was looking at perhaps some Koolertek sleeving or the furryletters sleeving.

How does the Koolertek compare to furryletters or MDPC-X? I know it is not as good, but if it hides the wires adequately, then it is good enough for me to try. Also, is the 3:1 heatshrink at Koolertek good enough to do the 24-pin, 6-pin, 4-pin, etc? Thanks in advance!

Can't wait to get started!


----------



## mastical

Dont know much about koolertek but furryletters has great black cleancut, cant see anything thru it at all.

MDPC is the best most say, i just used some blue from mdpc and i really liked it.

If your worried about colors showing thru spray paint them real quick or get a sharpie. I didnt have a need for this using mdpc or furrys.

I have used the heatshrink from koolertek tho, its good but not very thin. Just becareful so you can get your pin inside the connector.

What colors are you going with? IF all black then buy from furry and get the heatshrink from koolertek if your using colors buy from mdpc.


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastical*


Dont know much about koolertek but furryletters has great black cleancut, cant see anything thru it at all.

MDPC is the best most say, i just used some blue from mdpc and i really liked it.

If your worried about colors showing thru spray paint them real quick or get a sharpie. I didnt have a need for this using mdpc or furrys.

I have used the heatshrink from koolertek tho, its good but not very thin. Just becareful so you can get your pin inside the connector.

What colors are you going with? IF all black then buy from furry and get the heatshrink from koolertek if your using colors buy from mdpc.


Well, originally I wanted to do black w/ white accents on a new Strider Plus 750 in my stacker 832, but I'm putting my mod on the back burner for a bit. Now I'm planning on doing black w/ red accents on my crappy OCZ in my HAF 922 or all black if I decide that's easier. I was thinking I might get 75' of black from furry letters and then 25' of red from koolertek because I want to keep the cost down since I'm sleeving a lame PSU. I take it I would want 1/8" sleeving and 1/8" heatshrink, correct?

Thanks a lot!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xien16* 
Nils doesn't give anything to resellers, because "MDPC is more than just a product" - as everyone knows who ever bought from him. He doesn't like the simple mentality of people to just buy something and sell it for more. *He never responds to resellers.* He also states this philosophy in "about MDPC-X". Therefore: Your reseller-friend can wait for a reply ... but will never get one.

I can back this up. MDPC isn't your typical business where every customer is treated as just another number or some more profit . MDPC is personalised and takes care of the enthusiasts who buy from there. Anyone who has ever purchased sleeve from Nils and received it with a drawing on the back and special instructions will know exactly what I mean. This is not a common 'business' practice for other companies. To allow another person to re-sell the sleeving in another part of the world where he has little to no control over the proceedings is something I don't think Nils would ever allow. MDPC IS Nils. It just wouldn't be the same to receive MDPC sleeve without the drawing on the package, without the "Krissy Edition" etc on the pin remover and all the other things Nils does for us when we buy from him.

I'm not trying to shoot down the idea of re-selling as yes, it would definitely help with shipping costs. It would be cheaper for me to order it from the US too. But I feel it would potentially destroy the spirit of MDPC and what the name stands for. These products are exotic and the best of the best and I personally don't mind paying a little more for shipping because I want to support the man that has made this all possible. I hope you all understand what I mean


----------



## mastical

1/8 sleeve and 3/16 heatshrink, 1/8hs is too small.


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastical*


1/8 sleeve and 3/16 heatshrink, 1/8hs is too small.


Oooo... Koolertek doesn't stock 3/16" Only 1/8" or 1/4"









Is 1/4" too big?


----------



## mastical

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidwolf909* 
Oooo... Koolertek doesn't stock 3/16" Only 1/8" or 1/4"









Is 1/4" too big?

1/4 is fine, Thats what i ordered last time. 3/16 - 1/4 close enough.

Im gonna finish my 24 today with the blue mdpc, ill post pics once its finnished.


----------



## j0n3z3y

My friend is becoming a respected name in the business & I'm sure he'd rather just buy bulk. As far as dealer status goes....I'll take you word on Nil's not dealing directly w/ business accounts. This particular retailer is very like minded about doing business and I don't see this as taking away from Nil's. If anything, widening distribution w/ a great retailer that cares about his customers would be a great thing for both imo.

However, he's also a great person to deal with personally. As many have attested to on these very forums. Sorry, I'm not at liberty to discuss who atm. When I'm given the go ahead, I'll let you know.

Thanks for the advice and info


----------



## ff02

As far as retailers inquiring about becoming resellers of MDPC sleeving, it never hurts to ask. After all, a closed mouth never gets fed. If Nils chooses not to respond, that's his decision to make...its his company to run his own way, and he seems to run it quite well judging by what his customers say about him. However, a reseller could still resell his sleeving, which he does seem to be aware of since he mentions it where he talks about including the heatshrink in the family packs. The reseller just wouldn't be getting it any cheaper than anyone else (other than perhaps a reduced shipping cost per foot when ordering in bulk), so their selling price would have to be higher since they'd need to make a profit. Those who use a ton of the stuff would most likely continue to get it direct and buy in bulk themselves, but having a US source could offer some convenience to others. The only way I could really see a reseller getting into a bit of hot water selling it is if they listed it on their website as MDPC or used the logo without his permission. Legal issues aside, it just wouldn't be right to do so without his blessing anyways.


----------



## bloo.tomarto

hey guys,

just quickly will furryletters heatshrink be all right if i just sleeve front panel connectors and fans, not any power connecters?


----------



## PapaSmurf

The answer is the same now as it has been for the last 20+ people who asked that in this thread. Yes.


----------



## oliverw92

No need to be rude about it PapaSmurf


----------



## Lopan

Hello, I'm new here and im from the Philippines









just want to be sure if the Flexo "Clean Cut" 1/8 is already 3end or stands and if i use it with my 6 pin or 24pin i wont be able to see the color of the cables.

is 1/8 clean cut already 3 end or should i get the 1/4 size to make sure of full coverage?

can anyone post samples pls of 1/8 clean cut sleeving work

thanks in advance


----------



## fshizl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *j0n3z3y*


My friend is becoming a respected name in the business & I'm sure he'd rather just buy bulk. As far as dealer status goes....I'll take you word on Nil's not dealing directly w/ business accounts. This particular retailer is very like minded about doing business and I don't see this as taking away from Nil's. If anything, widening distribution w/ a great retailer that cares about his customers would be a great thing for both imo.

However, he's also a great person to deal with personally. As many have attested to on these very forums. Sorry, I'm not at liberty to discuss who atm. When I'm given the go ahead, I'll let you know.

Thanks for the advice and info










I absolutely enjoy dealing with Nils, any question I have he answers quickly. I enjoy purchasing items from him because of the great service he provides.

I know he doesnt want to deal with businesses because he wants who ever is selling the product to want to sell it as an enthusiast. He doesnt want a company to just sell it for the money.


----------



## Tribulex

Mr. Secretive person, do you have an eta on this? Because i have an order I would like to place, and I need to have it within the next 2 weeks. Should i wait this out, or just buy it.


----------



## oliverw92

Tribulex i doubt it will ever happen, and definitely not within 2 weeks. Just buy it yourself.


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tribulex*


Mr. Secretive person, do you have an eta on this? Because i have an order I would like to place, and I need to have it within the next 2 weeks. Should i wait this out, or just buy it.


in my experience it takes almost 2 weeks to get to your house with customs and lengthy shipping. it is worth it though


----------



## mastical

Quote:



Originally Posted by *da tick 07*


in my experience it takes almost 2 weeks to get to your house with customs and lengthy shipping. it is worth it though


I ordered on sunday night and i received it the next saturday. I was suprised cuz i was expecting 2 weeks.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


No need to be rude about it PapaSmurf


It wasn't meant to be rude, just a statement of fact. People need to read at least some of a thread or use the search function prior to posting a question. It's rude and inconsiderate of them not to do so.


----------



## oliverw92

Even so, he's a brand new member, give him a break. Instead of saying it in an aggressive manner you could have told him what he wanted and also pointed out the search function.


----------



## fshizl

2 weeks? I live in Cali and order Monday and get it Friday.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Even so, he's a brand new member, give him a break. Instead of saying it in an aggressive manner you could have told him what he wanted and also pointed out the search function.

Number one, that wasn't aggressive. Second, just because they are a new member here doesn't mean that they haven't been active in other forums and don't already know about it.

With that I take my leave of this.


----------



## Tribulex

Well, im really stuck. I filled up my shopping cart on mdpc and its €200, while i can get the same stuff from US suppliers (substituting nylon multifilament) for $100 with 3x the sleeving. €200 just seems too much for something purely aesthetic.


----------



## j0n3z3y

Ok....well,back on topic. I'm not being secretive about it. I just don't want it said "So and so said he'd be getting it in stock and it didn't happen because..." That's why I'm being as fortright as possible so no ones integrity is compromised or questioned.

As to the timeframe,or if, or when it happens. The only part of that descision that my friend has any influence on, is dependant on Nil's response or lack thereof. Better to have tried and failed, than never to have tried at all.

What I can tell you from personal experience, is that my friend and I became friends due to his uncommon care,support and a higher level of customer service. There's no higher endorsement anyone can give.


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tribulex* 
Well, im really stuck. I filled up my shopping cart on mdpc and its â‚¬200, while i can get the same stuff from US suppliers (substituting nylon multifilament) for $100 with 3x the sleeving. â‚¬200 just seems too much for something purely aesthetic.

I would just go with the furryletters sleeving then if I were you. Then get any specialty colors you need from MDPC to reduce cost. You can get 3:1 heatshrink at Koolertek. I've heard it does the job just as well as the MDPC heatshrink.


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
2 weeks? I live in Cali and order Monday and get it Friday.

Mine must have gotten stuck somewhere. Ordered mine on Sunday night and it came the next Tuesday. Wasn't home when it was delivered so I had to wait till Wednesday to get it, so worth it though







.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tribulex* 
Well, im really stuck. I filled up my shopping cart on mdpc and its â‚¬200, while i can get the same stuff from US suppliers (substituting nylon multifilament) for $100 with 3x the sleeving. â‚¬200 just seems too much for something purely aesthetic.

What did you have in the cart? Should cost more then â‚¬100 for one PSU.


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidwolf909* 
I would just go with the furryletters sleeving then if I were you. Then get any specialty colors you need from MDPC to reduce cost. You can get 3:1 heatshrink at Koolertek. I've heard it does the job just as well as the MDPC heatshrink.

The MDPC is miles better, it is 4:1


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
The MDPC is miles better, it is 4:1

But is it worth 11.5 euros to ship over $10 worth of heatshrink? I know it's the best, but that's kind of crazy if you are a budget guy.


----------



## oliverw92

Well in my opinion yes - because of the high shrink ratio, it grips the cables/crimps better and also is thin enough to allow the heatshrink once shrunk to easily slip inside the holes.


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Well in my opinion yes - because of the high shrink ratio, it grips the cables/crimps better and also is thin enough to allow the heatshrink once shrunk to easily slip inside the holes.

*sigh*

Why can't someone buy a bulk amount and resell it to us OCN'ers?

Honestly, I'm kicking around the idea of getting the 200 meter pack of black just so people can get MDPC without the crazy shipping after I'm done.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidwolf909* 
But is it worth 11.5 euros to ship over $10 worth of heatshrink? I know it's the best, but that's kind of crazy if you are a budget guy.

Each individual has to determine that for themselves. A lot has to do with the skill of the person using it. Some people can make the cheap stuff work great while others will do a poor job with the best product available.


----------



## oliverw92

If you re-read the last few pages, we have been discussing that. The owner, Nils, will never do official reselling, however there is nothing to stop you just buying loads of it and then selling it to people over on the other side of the pond.


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
If you re-read the last few pages, we have been discussing that. The owner, Nils, will never do official reselling, however there is nothing to stop you just buying loads of it and then selling it to people over on the other side of the pond.

Oh believe me, I have read the entire thread lol. I keep up to date with this since I'm starting mine soon. And yea, that's what I'm talking about doing.


----------



## oliverw92

You would end up losing money though which is the issue.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Well in my opinion yes - because of the high shrink ratio, it grips the cables/crimps better and also is thin enough to allow the heatshrink once shrunk to easily slip inside the holes.

Oliver is right... I've used 3:1 heatshrink before and had issues getting the pin back into the connector. With MDPC's heatshrink, this issue disappeared instantly and it has been a breeze to do my sleeving. Until you try it, you'll never know what you're missing. I'm glad I bit the bullet and got my shrink from there.


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
You would end up losing money though which is the issue.

Yea I guess you would... Oh well. If I could keep my losses to a maximum of $10, I'd probably do so if it benefited the community enough.


----------



## kidwolf909

Alright guys, I have a question...

Which option would you go with: MDPC for all of it? Or Furry for black and MDPC for white and heatshrink?

MDPC Only:

10m White Sleeve
20m (65ft) Black Sleeve
3m Black HS

= 38.35E
*= $48.72*

*OR*

MDPC + Furry:

10m White Sleeve
4m Black HS (Extra meter to meet the minimum order amount of 15E)

= 27.26E
= $34.63

75ft Black Sleeve from furry

= $18 shipped

*Total = $52.63*

*Also, is 30m enough to sleeve a 24 pin, two 6 pins, one SATA, one 4 pin ATX, and two MOLEX's? I know I could do the calculations based on wire lengths, and I might, but I just wanted a guesstimate.*

Thanks!


----------



## Yogi

Just go with MDPC since its cheaper. I would measure before hand just to make sure. Wouldn't be good to guesstimate and then end up short. Also add about a half and inch to each wire just incase.


----------



## kidwolf909

Balls... based on my calculations, it looks like I need ~110 ft.

24 x 550mm = 13200mm = 13.2m

8 x 560mm = 4480mm = 4.48m

2x6 x 560 = 6720mm = 6.72m

5 x 1010 = 5050mm = 5.05m

4 x 1010 = 4040mm = 4.04m

= 33.49m

~ 110ft

The furryletters + MDPC combo is 75' + 32.5' = 107.5'

Looks like that is the route I will be going to make sure I have enough.

It's only $4 more.


----------



## IntelLover

How is the quality of Koolertek's colored sleeving?


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidwolf909* 
Balls... based on my calculations, it looks like I need ~110 ft.

24 x 550mm = 13200mm = 13.2m

8 x 560mm = 4480mm = 4.48m

2x6 x 560 = 6720mm = 6.72m

5 x 1010 = 5050mm = 5.05m

4 x 1010 = 4040mm = 4.04m

= 33.49m

~ 110ft

The furryletters + MDPC combo is 75' + 32.5' = 107.5'

Looks like that is the route I will be going to make sure I have enough.

It's only $4 more.


Make sure you order extra. For instance, if you off by even 1 inch on your 24 pin measurements, that's a 2 foot difference.

I would buy Furry's.


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


Make sure you order extra. For instance, if you off by even 1 inch on your 24 pin measurements, that's a 2 foot difference.

I would buy Furry's.


Yea I decided to get 100' of furry's instead of 75'.

Thanks!


----------



## Tribulex

Well lets see. Heres my mdpc cart:

1x Pin-Remover by MOLEX - The Original
20,34 Euro
1x Heatshrink SATA - WHITE
2,69 Euro
1x Sleeve SATA - WHITE
5,00 Euro
1x Cable-Management-Clip MEDIUM - BLACK
1,93 Euro
1x MDPC Crimping-Tool
29,95 Euro
1x SATA Power-Connector END
2,51 Euro
1x SATA Power-Connector THROUGH
2,51 Euro

Damn it they are out of the white family pack, which is another 72 dollars. So i lied a little it comes out to 150 euros.

I can't use furryletters, since they only sell black, so what I am going to do is an experiment. Im going to buy all us stuff, and as the sleeve I am going to use a 1000ft roll of white nylon multifilament. Ill post pics and it will look like sex and everyone will say zomg thats so cool and ill keep buying it from the vendor and sell it to ocn users for mdpc prices and make $$$$$$$$


----------



## Shane1244

If you're buying a crimper, Make sure you get crimps! haha


----------



## Tribulex

mdpc crimper comes with a buttload. why else would i need a crimper?


----------



## oliverw92

You do not need 1000ft! More like 150ft lmao! That is why your cart is so expensive! An MDPC family pack is WAY too much for a single PSU.


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


You do not need 1000ft! More like 150ft lmao! That is why your cart is so expensive! An MDPC family pack is WAY too much for a single PSU.


He says he's going to resell it and make....BILLIONS! mwahahahaha.


----------



## Tribulex

Lol well i want to have enough for at least 2 psus, thats why I would get the family pack of white. As far as the 1000ft, thats the min amount i can get in white 1/8 nylon multi. Unless anyone else knows a smaller spool from somewhere?


----------



## oliverw92

The MDPC family packs are excellent value. It works out cheaper than Furryletters per foot, including shipping costs.


----------



## Tribulex

except they are out of white. I think this is a message from a greater being that I shouldnt buy mdpcx


----------



## dpx [R]

this makes me want to sleeve my cables.. will do on my next system forsure


----------



## Tribulex

good news. I just bought 1000 ft of white nylon multifilament sleeving. and its DYABLE!!!! this means custom color sleeving service coming soon to an OCN near you!


----------



## Greensystemsgo

my psu came sleeved so thats good for now.

but i so wish i could sleeve my earbuds and laptop charger


----------



## kidwolf909

To all you guys that sleeve the SATA cables:

Do you have to buy new connectors when you move the connectors or are the cutting contacts in them still good? Also, do you just wrap some electrical tape around the part of the wire where it was previously spliced?


----------



## PapaSmurf

The cutting type connectors should work numerous times as long as one is careful when they remove them. I normally put a small piece of heatshrink over the old cuts if I don't put the connector back in the same place. It's a much better solution than using electrical tape.


----------



## BlackEdition

sata data cords the sleeving will just slip over but for sata power if you have the kind that you can take the back off of and pull the wires out you can just sleeve and push the wire back into the connector if thats unclear i can get pics


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
The cutting type connectors should work numerous times as long as one is careful when they remove them. I normally put a small piece of heatshrink over the old cuts if I don't put the connector back in the same place. It's a much better solution than using electrical tape.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackEdition* 
sata data cords the sleeving will just slip over but for sata power if you have the kind that you can take the back off of and pull the wires out you can just sleeve and push the wire back into the connector if thats unclear i can get pics

Nope. Thank you both! I just wanted to check to be sure they were reusable.


----------



## BlackEdition

sorry for double post but im new to sleeving and thought id show off a cathode i did i think it looks pretty good and sorry for the crappy pic my camera sucks but i tried my best


----------



## Tribulex

good job now do a psu


----------



## oliverw92

Black edition, to make it even better when you heatshrink the connector end, heatshrink over the end of the connector too. Looks neater and there is no way you can see the individual wires.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Black edition, to make it even better when you heatshrink the connector end, heatshrink over the end of the connector too. Looks neater and there is no way you can see the individual wires.

If you did that you wouldn't be able to plug the connector into the Inverter box, at least on any of the ones I have ever used. And I seriously doubt that any heatshrink is capable of fitting over the end of the actual CCFL tube and shrink down enough to fit snuggly onto the sleeve


----------



## oliverw92

You should be able to hook the heatshrink just over the end of the connector on the wire side, i have done it loads. And yes you can get heatshrink that shrinks enough to go over the cathode cube itself. Any 4:1 will do it.


----------



## BlackEdition

thanks ill fool around with it i sleeved my psu its looks pretty good but i havent done any cable management in my case so no pics im only 14 so my patience is a little thin


----------



## mastical

Nice pc for being 14, imangine what youll have when your 20?!?!


----------



## Tribulex

i wish i had the pc budget the 14 year olds on this forum have


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


You should be able to hook the heatshrink just over the end of the connector on the wire side, i have done it loads. And yes you can get heatshrink that shrinks enough to go over the cathode cube itself. Any 4:1 will do it.


None of the 4:1 I have tried would shrink down that much. By my measurement it would require 5 or 6 to 1 to go that far.

As for the inverter side, not on any of the ones I have used. All of them fit COMPLETELY INSIDE the inverter and there is barely enough clearance to fit the connecter inside, let alone heatshrink.


----------



## BlackEdition

ya i got lucky with my pc 8th grade graduation birthday and summer (workin for relatives) im not to worried about the cathode sleeving its good enough for my tastes


----------



## kidwolf909

Welp, just order 125ft. of black Clean-Cut from furryletters









And my Strider should be in on Tuesday!

Time to order from MDPC-X...

I'm thinking 10m of white + 5m of black heatshrink. Will 5m of shrink be enough to work with 160ft of sleeve (total)?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Depending on how big of a piece you use on each end (normally .625 to .75" each end) you'll need about 1.25 to 1.5" per wire that you sleeve. That amounts to 8 or 9 wires per foot of shrink which makes about 128 to 144 wires from 5 meters (app. 16 feet). Determine how many wires you will be sleeving to see how many you will need.


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Depending on how big of a piece you use on each end (normally .625 to .75" each end) you'll need about 1.25 to 1.5" per wire that you sleeve. That amounts to 8 or 9 wires per foot of shrink which makes about 128 to 144 wires from 5 meters (app. 16 feet). Determine how many wires you will be sleeving to see how many you will need.


Hmm.... I didn't even think to do that. God on you man.









*EDIT: Looks like my whole PSU would only be 86 wires. I think having extra is a good idea though just in case I get sloppy and want to redo some. Plus fan wires and front panel wires and stuff.*


----------



## PapaSmurf

My mind just thinks that way, Probably has to do with my background in Retail Sales since I was a kid back in the 60's.


----------



## mastical

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidwolf909* 
Hmm.... I didn't even think to do that. God on you man.









*EDIT: Looks like my whole PSU would only be 86 wires. I think having extra is a good idea though just in case I get sloppy and want to redo some. Plus fan wires and front panel wires and stuff.*


Get quite a bit extra, I redid alot of heatshrink cuz it turned out crappy or didnt line up.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mastical* 
Get quite a bit extra, I redid alot of heatshrink cuz it turned out crappy or didnt line up.

This! Haha.


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidwolf909* 
Hmm.... I didn't even think to do that. God on you man.









*EDIT: Looks like my whole PSU would only be 86 wires. I think having extra is a good idea though just in case I get sloppy and want to redo some. Plus fan wires and front panel wires and stuff.*

Get the extra. I measured mine and thoughtthat 40m was perfect. I was about 10-15ft short.


----------



## Yogi

Anyone have any extra MDPC grey? My 8 pin is a little short so Im going to sleeve an extension, only need 2 feet.


----------



## MijnWraak

sure







I saw your wanted thread but forgot to PM ya!

Just send a few bucks for shipping and I'll get it out asap


----------



## Tribulex

anyone have an extra few meters of white sata, then? I didnt buy sata sleeving since, 1000ft is alot for psu, but 1000ft is EXTRAOrDINARILY REALLY EXCESSIVE for sata.


----------



## kidwolf909

Lookie what just came in the mail today







125' of Clean Cut.










**Sorry, crappy cell phone pic**

Can't wait for my Strider Plus to come tomorrow and MDPC-X order to be shipped out!


----------



## D0U8L3M

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kidwolf909*


Lookie what just came in the mail today







125' of Clean Cut.










**Sorry, crappy cell phone pic**

Can't wait for my Strider Plus to come tomorrow and MDPC-X order to be shipped out!


oO you got a strider plus dude you have to tell me what your gonna do with the capasitors on the ends of the cables...i asked a few places but i never seem to get straight answers i wanna get the st1000-p cuz its 1000watts in a standard size


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *D0U8L3M*


oO you got a strider plus dude you have to tell me what your gonna do with the capasitors on the ends of the cables...i asked a few places but i never seem to get straight answers i wanna get the st1000-p cuz its 1000watts in a standard size










You just remove them







either by unpinning the cables and sliding them off, or carefully with scissors/hammer.


----------



## D0U8L3M

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


You just remove them







either by unpinning the cables and sliding them off, or carefully with scissors/hammer.


...why would you remove them they help give you cleaner power by filtering out spikes and drops i dont see myself giving up performance for looks, and i know there has to be a way to make em look half way decent wether its just hearshrink on them or something else.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *D0U8L3M*


...why would you remove them they help give you cleaner power by filtering out spikes and drops i dont see myself giving up performance for looks, and i know there has to be a way to make em look half way decent wether its just hearshrink on them or something else.


Because it'll only make a difference if you're overvolting it a LOT which requires extreme cooling like LN2. They're redundant for slight air overclocks and such.

(at least from what I understand from the internets. there are much more intelligent PSU maniacs that could possibly chime in!)


----------



## D0U8L3M

awaits someone with psu knoledge that i wish i had to explain XD


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


Because it'll only make a difference if you're overvolting it a LOT which requires extreme cooling like LN2. They're redundant for slight air overclocks and such.


No that's absolutely crazy...

You want those Caps on the lines, they're essentially the secondary filtering stage.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


Because it'll only make a difference if you're overvolting it a LOT which requires extreme cooling like LN2. They're redundant for slight air overclocks and such.

(at least from what I understand from the internets. there are much more intelligent PSU maniacs that could possibly chime in!)


In a nutshell, BS. Why would anyone pay extra for a PSU like that and then remove one of the key features that make it as good as it is? Anyone who removes them is foolish at best. Don't let anyone mislead you, you do NOT want to remove them. They help to filter out the power running through the lines which prolongs the life and raises the stability of any of the components that are connected to the PSU.


----------



## D0U8L3M

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


In a nutshell, BS. Why would anyone pay extra for a PSU like that and then remove one of the key features that make it as good as it is? Anyone who removes them is foolish at best. Don't let anyone mislead you, you do NOT want to remove them. They help to filter out the power running through the lines which prolongs the life and raises the stability of any of the components that are connected to the PSU.


haha i knew it =] now to try to make them look pretty =/


----------



## PapaSmurf

It's one of the reasons why I'm not a fan of the individual wire sleeving. Makes working with PSU's like this way too difficult without what essentially amounts to ruining them.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


It's one of the reasons why I'm not a fan of the individual wire sleeving. Makes working with PSU's like this way too difficult without what essentially amounts to ruining them.


so why do all the PSUs that don't have it happen to not blow up gpus?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


so why do all the PSUs that don't have it happen to not blow up gpus?


Because they have those components inside the PSU itself.

Though to keep the size of the ST1000-P smaller, they put them on the cables.


----------



## IntelLover

Is this the same case with the HX850? the things on the end of the PCI-e cables?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IntelLover*


Is this the same case with the HX850? the things on the end of the PCI-e cables?


Those are EMI filters. Not Capacitors used for secondary stage filtering.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Because they have those components inside the PSU itself.

Though to keep the size of the ST1000-P smaller, they put them on the cables.


Oh thought we were talking about them in general, not in that psu! My mistake! (figured they were redundant because they already had them inside the psu)


----------



## IntelLover

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Those are EMI filters. Not Capacitors used for secondary stage filtering.

So I can remove then without any worry right?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
Oh thought we were talking about them in general, not in that psu! My mistake! (figured they were redundant because they already had them inside the psu)

They have some; not all. Basically imagine it like this; half is inside, half is out.


----------



## PapaSmurf

I didn't say that they would "blow up gpus" only that having them would make the components last longer. There is a HUGE difference between those two statements. But I see a LOT of posts both here and on other forums about GPU's failing right and left. I can assure you that a LOT of these failures are PSU related.

I've been involved with electronics since the early 60's in one form or another. One of the main things we learned was that the better line filtering you have the better off you are. The individual components last longer, run cooler, you have less electrical cross talk, and the overall system (be it a TV, radio, computer, etc) will be more reliable. One of the things we used to do quite often was take out smaller filter capacitors and replace them with considerably larger ones. Talk to any sound system expert and they'll tell you about the additional filter capacitors they utilize in their installations to provide the absolute best sound quality possible.

Have you ever been in a car and heard a static whine coming through the speakers when the radio is on (and sometimes even when it isn't)? That's more than likely caused by not properly grounding the system and either not installing the filter capacitors or removing them from the main wiring loop and/or from the alternator. Take those filter capacitors off of that PSU and you'll have the same problems.

But again I ask, why pay extra for a PSU then hack one of it's best features off? That's just plain foolish. If you don't want them, then get a less expensive PSU that doesn't have them and live with the consequences.


----------



## Tribulex

Let me sum it up.

If there are capacitors on your cables, do not remove them. If you want to sleeve your cables, buy a psu that has all the capacitors internalized.

There, that wasn't so hard.


----------



## D0U8L3M

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tribulex* 
Let me sum it up.

If there are capacitors on your cables, do not remove them. If you want to sleeve your cables, buy a psu that has all the capacitors internalized.

There, that wasn't so hard.

Nice way taking the easy way out XP i want a small 1k psu and im gonna get it and im gonna sleeve it. Those few cables with the caps are GOING to be sleeved one way or another


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *D0U8L3M* 
Nice way taking the easy way out XP i want a small 1k psu and im gonna get it and im gonna sleeve it. Those few cables with the caps are GOING to be sleeved one way or another









I'd be interested to see how you tackle it as I'm considering a Silverstone Strider as a replacement for my current unit.


----------



## PapaSmurf

You go girl. You can kick that things butt.


----------



## D0U8L3M

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
I'd be interested to see how you tackle it as I'm considering a Silverstone Strider as a replacement for my current unit.

well i kinda have an idea for how im going to do it its just that the monies arnt here for me to start T.T


----------



## IntelLover

PapaSmurf what about the things on the HX850 PCI-e cables? Can I remove thoses?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IntelLover* 
PapaSmurf what about the things on the HX850 PCI-e cables? Can I remove thoses?

They are EMI Filters, Don't really do anything. Go ahead and remove them.


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *D0U8L3M* 
oO you got a strider plus dude you have to tell me what your gonna do with the capasitors on the ends of the cables...i asked a few places but i never seem to get straight answers i wanna get the st1000-p cuz its 1000watts in a standard size









I was planning on simply marking the wires, marking where the wires connect in each end connector, and switching the connectors so that the capacitor would be right at the output of the PSU instead of at the end of the line.

Would that be possible Tator Tot? I figured as long as I maintained the correct polarity, there wouldn't be any issue.


----------



## oliverw92

Good news, because of how low the euro is to everything else as of now, MDPC sleeving is only $0.2 a foot


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidwolf909* 
I was planning on simply marking the wires, marking where the wires connect in each end connector, and switching the connectors so that the capacitor would be right at the output of the PSU instead of at the end of the line.

Would that be possible Tator Tot? I figured as long as I maintained the correct polarity, there wouldn't be any issue.

To my knowledge; there shouldn't be any problem with the point at which you put the cap on the wire; as long as it's present & setup how the manufacturer had it set.


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
To my knowledge; there shouldn't be any problem with the point at which you put the cap on the wire; as long as it's present & setup how the manufacturer had it set.

Alright, sounds good. I didn't want the capacitor at the end of the cable, but I didn't realize that one fine point about the Strider Plus until I bought it already









So as long as I put the wires into the correct corresponding positions on the connectors, the capacitor should be wired in it's proper polarity and should would just fine, right?


----------



## Tator Tot

Yeah they should work just fine.

They'll supposedly limit EMI when they're farther down the line. But EMI is pretty nil in a computer system. And nothing to worry about.

At most; sound cards are effected by EMI. Though shielding them is easy.


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Yeah they should work just fine.

They'll supposedly limit EMI when they're farther down the line. But EMI is pretty nil in a computer system. And nothing to worry about.

At most; sound cards are effected by EMI. Though shielding them is easy.

Sweet! My Strider comes in the mail today, so hopefully I'll be able to begin work soon









I still need to make my order at MDPC-X though









I'm holding back because I'm not sure which color I want yet lol


----------



## oliverw92

Get it soon before the euro recovers


----------



## ninjabelly

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Get it soon before the euro recovers









I ordered a family pack, purple, grand bleu, and gray. I figure I'll do 4 more PSU's in black sometime in the next year and you can never go wrong with black sleeve lol.


----------



## oliverw92

That must have been expensive


----------



## ninjabelly

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
That must have been expensive









It was, but luckily there was no buyer's remorse. I still have like 400 feet of 1/8 clean cut as well though







. I think I even have a bunch of PET that I'll end up tossing unless anyone wants it.


----------



## Soul.

I'm loving the pictures in here, and the look of sleeved cables =D. I was thinking about sleeving my PSU - OCZ StealhXStream in grey and the aqaublue from mdpc but I was wondering if you guys think its worth sleeving a cheap PSU like that? I paid about ~$35 for it, and sleeving would cost me atleast as much but I really love the look of sleeves =D


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Soul.* 
I'm loving the pictures in here, and the look of sleeved cables =D. I was thinking about sleeving my PSU - OCZ StealhXStream in grey and the aqaublue from mdpc but I was wondering if you guys think its worth sleeving a cheap PSU like that? I paid about ~$35 for it, and sleeving would cost me atleast as much but I really love the look of sleeves =D

Personally, I don't think it's worth it UNLESS you just sleeve it in black with Clean Cut from furryletters and use the 3:1 heatshrink that koolertek sells to keep your costs to a minimum. I was in a similar boat and my desire to sleeve gave me an excuse to upgrade to a far superior PSU in the process


----------



## oliverw92

Nah i wouldn't bother doing that - invest in a better PSU first that will last you a long time.


----------



## LemonSlice

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Nah i wouldn't bother doing that - invest in a better PSU first that will last you a long time.

Worth doing on a Galaxy EVO 1250?







. Ordered the kit and 20 meters of extra small sleeve. Hopefully that's enough for my system, it's like 160 feet worth







.


----------



## Soul.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidwolf909* 
Personally, I don't think it's worth it UNLESS you just sleeve it in black with Clean Cut from furryletters and use the 3:1 heatshrink that koolertek sells to keep your costs to a minimum. I was in a similar boat and my desire to sleeve gave me an excuse to upgrade to a far superior PSU in the process









Hmm, yeah. I was thinking something along those lines of using sleeving to upgrade my PSU. Although I don't know if I want to do this right now since I just got my PSU a month ago, but I wouldn't have any regrets getting a really sweet PSU and sleeving it. Any suggestions on a solid unit around the 650-700W range?


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Soul.* 
Hmm, yeah. I was thinking something along those lines of using sleeving to upgrade my PSU. Although I don't know if I want to do this right now since I just got my PSU a month ago, but I wouldn't have any regrets getting a really sweet PSU and sleeving it. Any suggestions on a solid unit around the 650-700W range?

If you want an amazing, fully-modular (good for sleeving) PSU, then get the Seasonic X650/750 or the Strider Plus 650/750.

The HX-series from Corsair is still *okay* but is aging and is not fully modular. Also, the new AX-series from Corsair will be fully modular, but the 750 and 850 units will be built on Seasonic's X platform, which is already available in the X650 or X750.

*However, if this PSU is for your sig rig, you REALLY don't need 650-750W. You could get away with a solid 500W PSU without any issue. If you're concern is future upgrades though, a more powerful PSU isn't a bad thing as long as it's a good one.*


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LemonSlice* 
Worth doing on a Galaxy EVO 1250?







. Ordered the kit and 20 meters of extra small sleeve. Hopefully that's enough for my system, it's like 160 feet worth







.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Soul.* 
Hmm, yeah. I was thinking something along those lines of using sleeving to upgrade my PSU. Although I don't know if I want to do this right now since I just got my PSU a month ago, but I wouldn't have any regrets getting a really sweet PSU and sleeving it. Any suggestions on a solid unit around the 650-700W range?

What is your price limit? If i were you i would go for a 100% modular PSU (makes it , something like the Seasonic X-650 would be a very good choice - amazing power supply, looks awesome and is 100% modular.


----------



## D0U8L3M

Hey Guys hoe does this cart look.








I figured that there would be an extra 10 meters of sleeving because all of the cables on the strider plus 1000 watt are just inder 20 meters according to this guys measurements. (btw when his table says + a value for one of the cables take the previous one and add that to it)http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php...Story&reid=180


----------



## Soul.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidwolf909* 
If you want an amazing, fully-modular (good for sleeving) PSU, then get the Seasonic X650/750 or the Strider Plus 650/750.

The HX-series from Corsair is still *okay* but is aging and is not fully modular. Also, the new AX-series from Corsair will be fully modular, but the 750 and 850 units will be built on Seasonic's X platform, which is already available in the X650 or X750.

*However, if this PSU is for your sig rig, you REALLY don't need 650-750W. You could get away with a solid 500W PSU without any issue. If you're concern is future upgrades though, a more powerful PSU isn't a bad thing as long as it's a good one.*

Yeah, the Seasonix X650 looks really sweet at first glance. And yeah, I'm looking to get a beefer PSU so I can leave myself open for upgrades in the future, and once I get my rig where I want it it'll just stay like that for a few years.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
What is your price limit? If i were you i would go for a 100% modular PSU (makes it , something like the Seasonic X-650 would be a very good choice - amazing power supply, looks awesome and is 100% modular.

Well, I've got two votes for the Seasonic now lol. And my price range is around $120 - although I'd be willing to push it since this will be a permanent investment, although I don't want to be breaking the bank here just on aesthetics. To be fair, I also didn't do enough research into PSU's when building my rig, so I didn't invest enough into mine so I still have a *little* bit of buyers remorse when browsing other peoples rigs around here.

Also, is it worth getting a fully modular PSU with the intention of sleeving? Or is it better to save a few bucks and buy a non modular PSU?


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Soul.* 
Yeah, the Seasonix X650 looks really sweet at first glance. And yeah, I'm looking to get a beefer PSU so I can leave myself open for upgrades in the future, and once I get my rig where I want it it'll just stay like that for a few years.

Well, I've got two votes for the Seasonic now lol. And my price range is around $120 - although I'd be willing to push it since this will be a permanent investment, although I don't want to be breaking the bank here just on aesthetics. To be fair, I also didn't do enough research into PSU's when building my rig, so I didn't invest enough into mine so I still have a *little* bit of buyers remorse when browsing other peoples rigs around here.

Also, is it worth getting a fully modular PSU with the intention of sleeving? Or is it better to save a few bucks and buy a non modular PSU?

A fully modular PSU will make sleeving EASY as crap! Also, you won't have to open the PSU to route sleeving inside the case, so you won't void your warranty. Also, you can definitely find a Seasonic X650 for close to $120 if you use bing cashback and find the right retailer. However, you could also get the Strider Plus 750 for $105 shipped with bing cashback at TigerDirect! It's really a great deal









All depends on what you're interested in though.
- Both are fully modular
- Seasonic is 80Plus Gold, Strider Plus is 80Plus Silver
- Seasonic is more $$$
- Seasonic can be a little quieter because of it's advanced fan controller, but the Strider is dead silent anyway


----------



## oliverw92

Fully modular is SO much easier than non-modular/semi-modular. You don't have to touch the PSU at all, you just sleeve the modular cables. Seriously, I highly suggest going 100% modular if you can.

Doublem, that carts looks perfect.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidwolf909* 
Also, you can definitely find a Seasonic X650 for close to $120 if you use bing cashback and find the right retailer. However, you could also get the Strider Plus 750 for $105 shipped with bing cashback at TigerDirect! It's really a great deal










If you want to use CashBack remember that they are shutting that down on July 31 of this year so you need to hurry.


----------



## Soul.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidwolf909* 
A fully modular PSU will make sleeving EASY as crap! Also, you won't have to open the PSU to route sleeving inside the case, so you won't void your warranty. Also, you can definitely find a Seasonic X650 for close to $120 if you use bing cashback and find the right retailer. However, you could also get the Strider Plus 750 for $105 shipped with bing cashback at TigerDirect! It's really a great deal









All depends on what you're interested in though.
- Both are fully modular
- Seasonic is 80Plus Gold, Strider Plus is 80Plus Silver
- Seasonic is more $$$
- Seasonic can be a little quieter because of it's advanced fan controller, but the Strider is dead silent anyway

Alright, sounds like I want a modular PSU then =D. Unfortunately, all the deals that I've found on the Strider Plus 750 and the Seasonic X650 are all in the US, and the Canadian sites don't have the same deals =(. Guess I'll keep searching to see if I can find either of those PSU's for cheap around here


----------



## LemonSlice

I'll be getting a brand new 1250w back from RMA. I don't think it matters that I'll be using semi-modular because I need every non-modular cable anyway







. 750w is also not enough for what will be going inside this system







.


----------



## oliverw92

I believe the Strider 750W is the noisy one - it has very noisy annoying capacitors. I may be wrong though, it may be the 650W that does that.


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
I believe the Strider 750W is the noisy one - it has very noisy annoying capacitors. I may be wrong though, it may be the 650W that does that.

Hmm... I haven't read anything about noisy capacitors. The only thing I have read regarding noise on the Strider Plus is that the fan can be a bit noisy when you really push the unit because Silverstone opted to dissipate more heat to extend the life of the unit rather than keep it super quiet.


----------



## Xien16

The noise comes from the coils








It is the same noise many GPUs produce... (you can't hear it because of the even louder fans





















)

My first SS PSU was a Strider SST-ST700F (700W) there was written "V1.1" on it...
For the next built I wanted to take a 600W SST-ST60F - I got it and saw "V5.2".

The first test was also the last one - The coils were extremely lout on a distance of 2m








Then I wanted to have an exact comparison of both and took the 700W PSU out of the other system and - nothing
I held my ear 5cm over the fan and could notice an extreme low airnoise

I sent the 600W crap back and ordered a seconde 700W V1.1 PSU


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
I believe the Strider 750W is the noisy one - it has very noisy annoying capacitors. I may be wrong though, it may be the 650W that does that.

That's probably the 650w; though I've yet to see a reputable review of it. It may have just been a few faulty units. The Strider Plus 750w & 850w units are solid builds.

Also; other cheap Fully Modular PSU's that are good: Rosewill Libertas

The 650w is an ATNG APL build: Pretty much identical to this unit
The 850w is an ATNG Modular 82: Pretty much identical to this unit


----------



## Soul.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


That's probably the 650w; though I've yet to see a reputable review of it. It may have just been a few faulty units. The Strider Plus 750w & 850w units are solid builds.

Also; other cheap Fully Modular PSU's that are good: Rosewill Libertas 

The 650w is an ATNG APL build: Pretty much identical to this unit
The 850w is an ATNG Modular 82: Pretty much identical to this unit


Are the rosewill's any good? Form what I hear it would be worth my while to stick with a silverstone over a rosewill. I'm having trouble finding any reviews about the Rosewill's as well that talk about ripple etc..


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Soul.*


Are the rosewill's any good? Form what I hear it would be worth my while to stick with a silverstone over a rosewill. I'm having trouble finding any reviews about the Rosewill's as well that talk about ripple etc..


They'll perform the same as the two units that I linked









And for the price they are great for what they offer. The cables sleeving is pretty good as well.

The only downfall of those Rosewill units is the MSRP. Thankfully Newegg sells them for much less.


----------



## Soul.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
They'll perform the same as the two units that I linked









And for the price they are great for what they offer. The cables sleeving is pretty good as well.

The only downfall of those Rosewill units is the MSRP. Thankfully Newegg sells them for much less.

Yeah, I checked out the rosewill's and the 800W is on sale for $110. The reviews on Newegg lead me to believe that alot of these come DOA though =(. Hopefully that isn't a problem though. I think I'll be buying in the next day or so, and then I'll have to post some pics once I get my sleeves in/done!


----------



## PapaSmurf

I have NEVER seen ANY Rosewill product that wasn't some low quality rebadged pile of crap. Most of their products are lower quality versions of some low to mid range quality product to begin with so when they lower that quality even more it becomes little more than junk at best. I wouldn't waste my money on anything sold under the Rosewill name.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Soul.* 
Yeah, I checked out the rosewill's and the 800W is on sale for $110. The reviews on Newegg lead me to believe that alot of these come DOA though =(. Hopefully that isn't a problem though. I think I'll be buying in the next day or so, and then I'll have to post some pics once I get my sleeves in/done!

why the rosewill... see if you can find a psu here on the forums...


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
I have NEVER seen ANY Rosewill product that wasn't some low quality rebadged pile of crap. Most of their products are lower quality versions of some low to mid range quality product to begin with so when they lower that quality even more it becomes little more than junk at best. I wouldn't waste my money on anything sold under the Rosewill name.

You're also a silly man who apparently doesn't know how to do his own research and makes blind assumptions.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
You're also a silly man who apparently doesn't know how to do his own research and makes blind assumptions.

rosewill are rebranded huh? they arent bad at all... people just dont really look past their name...


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
You're also a silly man who apparently doesn't know how to do his own research and makes blind assumptions.

Actually, I have done the research and have first hand experience with the quality (or lack thereof) of their products. I stand by what I stated.


----------



## Soul.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
You're also a silly man who apparently doesn't know how to do his own research and makes blind assumptions.

This is starting to confuse me. I'm can't find any solid reviews about the libertas series Tator Tot. Could you kindly point me in the direction of some? Otherwise I think I'm just going to stick with the Silverstone even though its pricier, it seems to be a solid performer. I know you linked me the other reviews of the nexus, and not to sound rude here, but I have no idea how nexus was is related to the rosewills =/


----------



## PapaSmurf

That's because there aren't any. Rosewill is just the name that Newegg slaps on products they see as their house brand. The reviews of products that the Rosewill rebadge is based on don't count for anything as they are NOT the exact same product. They have lower quality components and lower quality control standards. That's one of the reasons that Newegg can sell them as cheaply as they do.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
rosewill are rebranded huh? they arent bad at all... people just dont really look past their name...

Almost all PSU's are "rebranded" as they buy a design from an OEM like Delta, Seasonic, Channel Well Tech, Sirfa, ATNG, Etasis, Andyson, Enhance, ect and then make it look how they want and re-sell it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
Actually, I have done the research and have first hand experience with the quality (or lack thereof) of their products. I stand by what I stated.

There are older Rosewill products that were not good. Deer & Solytech units.

But newer Rosewill units are on par with competing units from Nexus, Lian-Li, OCZ, ect. (aka brands that use the same OEM builds as Rosewill.)

Maybe you should look at reviews?
RV500-2
RV600-2
(both old/no longer made.)
RG630-S12
(current main stream unit)
RX750 & RX850
(No longer made)

Rosewill had a time of bad units; and incarnation of that is the Performance 650w but the RV500/RV600 units came AFTER that. And they've continually put out competitively priced good units to the market.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Soul.* 
This is starting to confuse me. I'm can't find any solid reviews about the libertas series Tator Tot. Could you kindly point me in the direction of some? Otherwise I think I'm just going to stick with the Silverstone even though its pricier, it seems to be a solid performer. I know you linked me the other reviews of the nexus, and not to sound rude here, but I have no idea how nexus was is related to the rosewills =/

The reviews relate to the Rosewill's because they're both of the same design. Group Regulated ATNG builds. Nexus & Rosewill put their own fans in them; and choose to go modular or not. But the internal design & components are the same.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
*That's because there aren't any*. Rosewill is just the name that Newegg slaps on products they see as their house brand. The reviews of products that the Rosewill rebadge is based on don't count for anything as they are NOT the exact same product. *They have lower quality components and lower quality control standards.* That's one of the reasons that Newegg can sell them as cheaply as they do.

If there's no good units; then what are those reviewed above?
What parts are lower quality?

You don't know what you're talking about, and most likely couldn't even explain the topology of a PSU. Quit trying to bash on a product that you know nothing about.


----------



## Soul.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 









I guess my questions about PSU's kinda derailed this topic...

Anyways, fshizl I was wondering if you had gotten your sleeving done on with the aquamarine + grey. Those were the colors I was thinking of getting for sleeving as well, and I was wondering what they would look like in a case before I go ahead and pull the trigger =D

I'm like 99.99% sure the color combo will be sweet based of the grey/green sleeving that was posted a while back, I just want to have some confirmation before I go ahead and order


----------



## anachronism

I know that MDPC-X is regarded as the best place for sleeving, I was wondering if anyone had any experience with the Pro Power sleeving (specifically the braided polyester monofilament) that's sold at Newark? I'm curious, since I'll be getting fans from there, it might make since to include sleeving as well if its of good quality.


----------



## Tribulex

Get the seasonic X 750w, ITS AMAZING. Perfectly silent, incredible efficiency, and nice, easy-to-sleeve modular cables. I love mine to deaths


----------



## Chicken Patty

Hey guys, I subscribed to this thread earlier today and just now I've been seeing a lot of good comments towards the Seasonic PSU's, heard of the brand but never really seen many people use it. Guess it's a crowd favorite for sleeving?


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Hey guys, I subscribed to this thread earlier today and just now I've been seeing a lot of good comments towards the Seasonic PSU's, heard of the brand but never really seen many people use it. Guess it's a crowd favorite for sleeving?

It's a crowd favorite for everything. Seasonic is behind a LOT of the great units you see in use from other brands. The X-series is simply their top of the line model including 100% modular cables, 80Plus Gold certification, and incredible ripple suppression and voltage regulation. They simply cannot be beat for the features they include.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidwolf909* 
It's a crowd favorite for everything. Seasonic is behind a LOT of the great units you see in use from other brands. The X-series is simply their top of the line model including 100% modular cables, 80Plus Gold certification, and incredible ripple suppression and voltage regulation. They simply cannot be beat for the features they include.

It's just a brand I've overlooked and now that I read all these comments makes me want to smack myself right across the head


----------



## Soul.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
It's just a brand I've overlooked and now that I read all these comments makes me want to smack myself right across the head









Yeah, from what I've read, Seasonic is a manufacturer that actually makes alot of the high end PSU's, and they've recently started making their own branded PSU's


----------



## PapaSmurf

Seasonic has been selling PSU's under their own name in the USA for nearly 10 years, not just recently. Otherwise you are correct.


----------



## Soul.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
Seasonic has been selling PSU's under their own name in the USA for nearly 10 years, not just recently. Otherwise you are correct.

Ah, my bad. Yeah, I just double checked the article where I thought I had found that, and it was only me thinking that Seasonic was new to the market.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Good stuff guys, thanks for the info


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Good stuff guys, thanks for the info









Seasonic's also a popular OEM. Many units from Corsair are Seasonic designs:
VX450/HX420
HX450
TX65/HX620
HX650
CX400
AX750
AX850

They also did the whole PC Power & Cooling Silencer line (not the Silencer MKII's though)

All XFX PSU's out right now are Seasonic.

They're a big OEM. And one of the best.


----------



## PapaSmurf

I would agree with you on that 100%.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Seasonic's also a popular OEM. Many units from Corsair are Seasonic designs:
VX450/HX420
HX450
TX65/HX620
HX650
CX400
AX750
AX850

They also did the whole PC Power & Cooling Silencer line (not the Silencer MKII's though)

All XFX PSU's out right now are Seasonic.

They're a big OEM. And one of the best.

..and if one brand of PSU's is good it's PCP&C. So that should sum it up


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
..and if one brand of PSU's is good it's PCP&C. So that should sum it up









PCP&C is a good brand. But not a great brand.

Cost of units is to high. They're still sticking to single rail designs because of a dumb fluke they made and don't want to own up to. Even though multi-rail setups are better.

They also spread way to much FUD to then take half of it back a few years later (IE: they just came out with 120mm PSU's with plans for modular designs even though they said 80mm fan/non-modular was the only way a quality unit could be built.)

PCP&C since being bought by OCZ lost all it's good OEMs and now only has Sirfa. Which isn't bad, Sirfa makes some strong units. But the price is way to steep.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
PCP&C is a good brand. But not a great brand.

Cost of units is to high. They're still sticking to single rail designs because of a dumb fluke they made and don't want to own up to. Even though multi-rail setups are better.

They also spread way to much FUD to then take half of it back a few years later (IE: they just came out with 120mm PSU's with plans for modular designs even though they said 80mm fan/non-modular was the only way a quality unit could be built.)

PCP&C since being bought by OCZ lost all it's good OEMs and now only has Sirfa. Which isn't bad, Sirfa makes some strong units. But the price is way to steep.

I've been using a PCP&C for a bit now on my i7 cruncher and it's a strong PSU, and what I really like about them is the test data they include with the PSU, at least you know they ain't bull****ting you and when they rate it at 860W, it puts out really close to that if not over that. Me personally I rather single rail designs, however don't judge me just yet, my main rig has a Quad rail BFG. So I got a bit of both worlds.


----------



## godofdeath

does mdpc-x sleeving fit all 3 wire of a fan?


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
does mdpc-x sleeving fit all 3 wire of a fan?

I believe it does. You have to remember that it IS expandable sleeving. Although it's 1/8" at "rest," it can expand up to 1/4" or larger if you compress it a little. I'm almost positive it will fit all 3 wires of a fan connector though. Be sure to use SATA heatshrink for the connector.


----------



## oliverw92

Yeah it will fit 3 wires.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidwolf909* 
I believe it does. You have to remember that it IS expandable sleeving. Although it's 1/8" at "rest," it can expand up to 1/4" or larger if you compress it a little. I'm almost positive it will fit all 3 wires of a fan connector though. Be sure to use SATA heatshrink for the connector.

yeah it fits well. Their heatshrink didnt fit over the connector since everytime I stretched it, it would snap right before the size I needed it to be to fit over it. So the 2:1 adhesive lined I had sitting around worked.


----------



## Tribulex

Let me just reiterate that my seasonic x-750 is THE MOST INCREDIBLE PSU ON THE FACE OF THIS EARTH. Runs cool, 100% silent, and 95% efficient (or something around there) at all loads. Super efficient, Super modular, Super cool, and makes zero sound. Also looks great sleeved, and the cables are easy to take apart for sleeving.


----------



## TheLaw

Why must ye cool people sleeve each individual cable. I know MDPCX doesn't sell big sleeves, but really I think it looks messier. It makes the cables larger. Takes up more space.

You only have to sleeve a full 24 pin with one sleeve and get it much denser than each one having its own.

And real expensive. I'd only use this stuff on front panel connectors, audio, fans..

Just my opinion.


----------



## TheLaw

Okay I take all that back. This looks fe₵king awesome.


----------



## godofdeath

wait so which heatshrink for the fan cables? usual or sata?


----------



## Yogi

The small sleeving or 1/8th will work.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tribulex* 
Let me just reiterate that my seasonic x-750 is THE MOST INCREDIBLE PSU ON THE FACE OF THIS EARTH. Runs cool, 100% silent, and 95% efficient (or something around there) at all loads. Super efficient, Super modular, Super cool, and makes zero sound. Also looks great sleeved, and the cables are easy to take apart for sleeving.

Kinda bummed I didn't buy one. I was thinking about it for a while, but didn't want to have to resell my TX850. This thing is staying with me for atleast another year now that its sleeved :/


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheLaw* 
Why must ye cool people sleeve each individual cable. I know MDPCX doesn't sell big sleeves, but really I think it looks messier. It makes the cables larger. Takes up more space.

You only have to sleeve a full 24 pin with one sleeve and get it much denser than each one having its own.

And real expensive. I'd only use this stuff on front panel connectors, audio, fans..

Just my opinion.

They do









http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sle...leeve-pack.htm

I'm using this stuff to sleeve the bulk of my 24-pin but I'm individually sleeving it where it is actually seen. I get the best of both worlds


----------



## sdla4ever

Never posted the finish pics of my sleeving so here ya go


----------



## Tribulex

hmm great sleeving excellent colours! However, you really need some cable management in that, um, computer.


----------



## Tribulex

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
Kinda bummed I didn't buy one. I was thinking about it for a while, but didn't want to have to resell my TX850. This thing is staying with me for atleast another year now that its sleeved :/

Nice thing about this one is its 750 watts, which prevents me from spending too much money on hardware (like tri-sli fermis).


----------



## fshizl

nice sleeving... but holy crap, get a swifter duster and just wipe everything down real quick haha...


----------



## sdla4ever

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tribulex* 
hmm great sleeving excellent colours! However, you really need some cable management in that, um, computer.

had some recent hard drive failures, pump failures and such so the wires are all over! and that damn NB fan is gonna go soon hopefully! full cover block FTW


----------



## Tribulex

after that, your next upgrade is a bigger case (might I lead you to the tj07) to have all your watercooling in it, with proper cable management.


----------



## Willhemmens

Some great pictures in here and some seriously skilled sleevers!

Two questions thought;
1. Coolermaster PSU's does sleeving void the warrenty?
2. WCUK's sleeve, has anyone used it and whats it like?

Thanks!


----------



## oliverw92

2. Their sleeving is good - if I was going to buy anything else except MDPC in the UK it would be that.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
2. Their sleeving is good - if I was going to buy anything else except MDPC in the UK it would be that.

Thanks!

I got my samples from WCUK in the post today, the sleeve thats the right size for doing single cables is only single braided, the rest is tripple braided.

Here's some photo's:

























This is the sleeve thats the right size for doing Sata cables, as you can see on the inside of the sleeve, tightening the sleeve helps, also inside a PC where its fairly dark you cant really see the sata cable at all.

















Think I'm going to save up for a while and get my sleeve from MDPC instead.


----------



## oliverw92

Hmm that's odd, i could have sworn WCUK used to be triple weave.


----------



## Soul.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sdla4ever* 
Never posted the finish pics of my sleeving so here ya go


































Nice sleeving job! I was wondering if that light blue with the black would be kickass, and now that I've seen it in a case I'm definitely going to pick some up for myself!


----------



## Tribulex

times are tough oli


----------



## oliverw92

'Yo d00d stop stealin my threads!' lol


----------



## Tribulex

well, more like they get 3x the profit for single strand instead of triple.


----------



## oliverw92

Yeah, but nobody wants single weave lol, it looks awful


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Yeah, but nobody wants single weave lol, it looks awful

True That!! lol


----------



## spiderm0nkey

fshizl, I love what you're doing soooo much. One of the nicest colour combos I have seen in a while.


----------



## Yogi

fshizl that tubing, sleeving, and everything else looks awesome! Kinda wish I woulda got black fittings instead now.


----------



## Tribulex

Black fittings are the ultimate sex


----------



## fshizl

thanks guys! i just felt that all these last pages and no pictures.. it needed something lol... so ill keep adding more pictures as i go through the build


----------



## Elite-

What would you guys recommend me for first time sleeving? I'm looking for just a basic kit to start off with, something that's good but also not too expensive. I know that most of you here use MDPC-X for getting your supplies but what would you recommend for a first time sleever?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Elite-* 
What would you guys recommend me for first time sleeving? I'm looking for just a basic kit to start off with, something that's good but also not too expensive. I know that most of you here use MDPC-X for getting your supplies but what would you recommend for a first time sleever?

You can try one of these like me. It's fairly in expensive and it'll give you the feeling of what it is. The stuff is not very high quality but still looks great and you can practice on it before buying the more expensive stuff like MDPC-X sleeving.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=3405


----------



## BradleyW

Nice cable sleeving!


----------



## 98uk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BradleyW* 
Nice cable sleeving!

Nice sleeve cables!


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BradleyW* 
Nice cable sleeving!

Sleeve nice cables!


----------



## Elite-

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
You can try one of these like me. It's fairly in expensive and it'll give you the feeling of what it is. The stuff is not very high quality but still looks great and you can practice on it before buying the more expensive stuff like MDPC-X sleeving.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=3405

Alright thanks I was looking at some of their stuff, and was just wondering if it was good quality.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Elite-* 
Alright thanks I was looking at some of their stuff, and was just wondering if it was good quality.

I use it in my rig, it was my first shot at sleeving too, not bad. Still looks better than no sleeving


----------



## Elite-

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


I use it in my rig, it was my first shot at sleeving too, not bad. Still looks better than no sleeving










True that. I'm just bored right now and i figure I have stuff that could be sleeved to look a lot better then it does now so I think I'm going to give that stuff a shot.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Elite-*


True that. I'm just bored right now and i figure I have stuff that could be sleeved to look a lot better then it does now so I think I'm going to give that stuff a shot.


Cool, keep me posted. hey what part of Florida you in? That store I linked you to is in Florida, maybe you are within driving distance


----------



## Elite-

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Cool, keep me posted. hey what part of Florida you in? That store I linked you to is in Florida, maybe you are within driving distance










I live in West Palm but yeah i could stop by there some time.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Elite-*


I live in West Palm but yeah i could stop by there some time.


Yeah, I don't think they are too far I believe. Give them a call to make sure they accept walk ins. Should be cool to visit a PC store like that


----------



## Elite-

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Yeah, I don't think they are too far I believe. Give them a call to make sure they accept walk ins. Should be cool to visit a PC store like that










Yeah well it will have to be later when I have some money. As I just went to compusa today and bought a Corsair 800D, which is a BEAST!!! And I also bought Corsair Dominator 6GB.


----------



## Agueybana_II

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Yeah, I don't think they are too far I believe. Give them a call to make sure they accept walk ins. Should be cool to visit a PC store like that









They dont accept walk ins








"Hello

We do not have a retail store to walk around and the gas to drive over here will be alot more then the shipping but you are welcome to do store pickup orders if you wish. Tax is based on your home address or Orlando rate.

Thanks

Best Regards,
Customer Service, Performance-PCs.com"


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Elite-* 
Yeah well it will have to be later when I have some money. As I just went to compusa today and bought a Corsair 800D, which is a BEAST!!! And I also bought Corsair Dominator 6GB.

Damn, that's the case I've been wanting for a while but I'm still not done with the one I currently have. So I haven't bought it yet because of that. how do you like the case?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Agueybana_II* 
They dont accept walk ins








"Hello

We do not have a retail store to walk around and the gas to drive over here will be alot more then the shipping but you are welcome to do store pickup orders if you wish. Tax is based on your home address or Orlando rate.

Thanks

Best Regards,
Customer Service, Performance-PCs.com"

So you can place a order and pick it up there? That's what I meant actually LOL


----------



## Agueybana_II

Exactly, you will need to place your order online and then pick up at store if you’re from FL taxes will apply


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Agueybana_II* 
Exactly, you will need to place your order online and then pick up at store if youâ€™re from FL taxes will apply

Cool, thanks for clearing that up


----------



## coppertop4646

Just had a couple questions. I was thinking of sleeving my Antec EarthWatts 430 and was wondering if 100ft of sleeving will be enough to single sleeve motherboard connector, PCI-E connector, and CPU connector? Second question is how do you go about sleeving a connector like this one? (http://www.cooldrives.com/lib/cooldr...-connector.jpg) What about a fan cable?


----------



## Tribulex

1 Yes. 2 Remove the connectors from the other side. On the kind that form a t, you can pop off the back by prying with a small flathead screwdriver. 3 Remove the connector. If it is molex, squeeze the pins with a small flathead screwdriver. If it is a 3pin connector, push in the little metal contacts and pull the wire out. Then of course, put the connectors back on. Does this make sense?


----------



## flamingoyster

This is literally the most intimidating thread on OCN.







I mean that in a good way, of course. The workmanship displayed here is second to none. I sleeved the non-modular part of my 850HX, and while I'm happy with the end result (and even happier to be done, my god this was a test of endurance) I still can't hold a candle to some of y'all! I didn't take any closeups, but here's the final product:










I only ordered black sleeving (mdpc-x) but they threw in a complimentary red sleeve, so I just figured, what the hell, I'll put it on.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *flamingoyster*


I only ordered black sleeving (mdpc-x) but they threw in a complimentary red sleeve, so I just figured, what the hell, I'll put it on.


It's the vein that carries the blood to your 4890 >


----------



## j0n3z3y

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Cool, thanks for clearing that up


Guys....I hate to be the bearer of bad news. But you should take a look at all the threads from extremely unhappy customers of PPC's on this site alone before you consider doing business w/ them.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *j0n3z3y*


Guys....I hate to be the bearer of bad news. But you should take a look at all the threads from extremely unhappy customers of PPC's on this site alone before you consider doing business w/ them.


OMG tell me about it, they messed up my order for my water block so bad...

so this is what they did, they shipped me the wrong one... okay thats cool its forgiven...

i ordered the supreme hf full nickel

they shipped me back a nickel plexi with the full nickel top in a nickel plexi boxed that was sharpied out and written full nickel...









so yeah when i got it, the block was obviously taken apart...
i emailed them and they said that they just put the nickel top on the block in order to ship it to me faster becuase their stock was coming in 2 weeks...


----------



## oliverw92

Well there is nothing wrong with that really, i mean it doesn't void the warranty or anything and they got the block to you as soon as they good - otherwise there would have been a 2 week wait.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *j0n3z3y*


Guys....I hate to be the bearer of bad news. But you should take a look at all the threads from extremely unhappy customers of PPC's on this site alone before you consider doing business w/ them.


I've been ordering from them for years and I never ever have had a single issue with them. Guess I've been lucky. At the end of the day, every store has some bad rep here and there. I appreciate the heads up though.


----------



## flamingoyster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


It's the vein that carries the blood to your 4890 >










I like that imagery!


----------



## coppertop4646

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tribulex*


1 Yes. 2 Remove the connectors from the other side. On the kind that form a t, you can pop off the back by prying with a small flathead screwdriver. 3 Remove the connector. If it is molex, squeeze the pins with a small flathead screwdriver. If it is a 3pin connector, push in the little metal contacts and pull the wire out. Then of course, put the connectors back on. Does this make sense?


Yeah makes sense, thanks for the help. 1/8" will work for all those wires right? (Fan, Mobo, Sata Power Connector)


----------



## j0n3z3y

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
I've been ordering from them for years and I never ever have had a single issue with them. Guess I've been lucky. At the end of the day, every store has some bad rep here and there. I appreciate the heads up though.









This is true. However, just a couple of months ago their reseller rating was 3.8 and people were climbing out of the woodwork here, talking about PPC's scamming them.

Their rating is higher now....but whose to say that's from legitimate customers, and they did'nt send in a bunch of ratings from fake email accounts. Anyway, I had a terrible experience on my one and only order from them...forewarned is forarmed, just saying.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *j0n3z3y* 
This is true. However, just a couple of months ago their reseller rating was 3.8 and people were climbing out of the woodwork here, talking about PPC's scamming them.

Their rating is higher now....but whose to say that's from legitimate customers, and they did'nt send in a bunch of ratings from fake email accounts. Anyway, I had a terrible experience on my one and only order from them...forewarned is forarmed, just saying.

Trust me, we ALL appreciate the feedback


----------



## j0n3z3y

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Trust me, we ALL appreciate the feedback


----------



## Tribulex

yeah 1/8 will work.

BTW guys i just got in 1000 feet of 1/8 white nylon multifilament. Its so soft and yummy! completely opaque too. Im going to pwn all ur sleevings







. Im going to sleeve every wire 5 times, for quality assurance, and to use up all the sleeve.


----------



## oliverw92

Eh, i still prefer mdpc







Nylon multifilament comes out all lumpy on fan cables


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Eh, i still prefer mdpc







Nylon multifilament comes out all lumpy on fan cables


Indeed. Each to their own though.

Tribulex, are you really gonna sleeve each wire 5 times or am I so tired that I'm missing something?


----------



## Imrac

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Eh, i still prefer mdpc







Nylon multifilament comes out all lumpy on fan cables

For fan cables, the best way to prevent this is to take the wires and place them into the chuck of an electric drill. Hold the other end of the wires and turn the drill on. This twists the wires into a vary nice round spiral. Just make sure not to go too fast.

Also it will shorten the overall length of the wires.


----------



## fshizl




----------



## spiderm0nkey

Nice work fshizl!!! That is seriously sexy


----------



## fshizl

Thanks spidermonkey!


----------



## Freakn

Does anyone out their know of anywhere in Australia to procure sleeving?


----------



## MijnWraak

Very sexy fshizl!! Hopefully you don't mind some constructive critisicm







but you could stretch out the sleeving over the cable a bit more, so the weave is tighter and takes up less space.







Other than that, looks perfect! (not sure if the heatshrink on the 24 is completely shrunk down, hard to tell in the picture)

I just wish someone could sell pre-cut heatshrink so that it's perfectly even! That's the hardest part IMHO


----------



## oliverw92

I am making myself a jig to cut it to the right length


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
I am making myself a jig to cut it to the right length









Do share once you're done! I tried everything imaginable with the tools I had and just couldnt get it done and ultimately made me lose my passion to sleeve, per se.


----------



## Dualbrain

Patience Mijn! For perfect sleeving, patience is everything.

Random picture of the day:










Of course I don't own the CGT^^, otherwise there would be no dust - right? Right!


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dualbrain* 
Patience Mijn! For perfect sleeving, patience is everything.

Random picture of the day:










Of course I don't own the CGT^^, otherwise there would be no dust - right? Right!









Hahaha was about to say something about the dust!

And yeah. I tried being patient but after wasting half of my heatshrink by throwing it away after the cuts were uneven/unparrallel, I just kind of gave up. I'll give it another try once I find a way to cut it all evenly though! (maybe one of those arts&crafts paper cutters?)


----------



## Chicken Patty

That's great!!!!!!


----------



## Dualbrain

Yes - I thought about getting one of these paper cutters too. Maybe someone has experience with it and can let us know / show.


----------



## CJisohsocool

I got a question, Could i just get a modular PS and NZXT's Premium cables?

http://www.nzxt.com/new/product.php?...bles&series=13

Or are NZXT's cables like... extensions for real cables you need or something? Very confused lol


----------



## oliverw92

You can't connect NZXT cables directly to a modular power supply. They are designed to connect onto the end of an existing cable.


----------



## CJisohsocool

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
You can't connect NZXT cables directly to a modular power supply. They are designed to connect onto the end of an existing cable.

Oh... hm... Well thats lame... Ok then would it be easier to sleave a modular or non modular power supply then?


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CJisohsocool*


Oh... hm... Well thats lame... Ok then would it be easier to sleave a modular or non modular power supply then?


Non-modular you can sleeve most of the cables without opening the PSU up. Or, you can sacrifice a bit of looks and have the shrink end right where the cables go into the PSU. IMO modular would be easier but even most modular PSU's have permanent cables attached.


----------



## CJisohsocool

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shrimpykins*


Non-modular you can sleeve most of the cables without opening the PSU up. Or, you can sacrifice a bit of looks and have the shrink end right where the cables go into the PSU. IMO modular would be easier but even most modular PSU's have permanent cables attached.


I think i have a half n half one atm, Has a bunch of spaces for extra plugs but also a big round batch of diff cables coming from the inside. Maybe ill just keep it and try to sleeve it myself lol.


----------



## oliverw92

Sleeving a 100% modular is easiest, followed by semi-modular, followed by non-modular.

Mijn, my idea worked! Here is my ultimate solution to cutting heatshrink to perfect even lengths!










You need a base board with 3 bits of wood screwed on like above.










This gap needs to be whatever length heatshrink you want - i like 15mm










The other is the diameter of your heatshrink.










You then need some heatshrink and a massive sharp kitchen knife!










Line up the knife against the two parallel pieces of wood, then run the knife through the heatshrink. You need a fair amount of pressure. Do not 'saw' it though, you should be able to get through it in one swipe, if not you may need to back through it in the reverse direction.










Perfect


----------



## Dualbrain

There's nothing better than constructive input. Thank you Oliver for helping so many people with what you do.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Nice jig setup there Oliver. That's the bee's knees.


----------



## MijnWraak

Who's the man? Oliver's the man!!! Now I have an excuse to buy a really nice japanese kitchen knife and now have a tool to continue sleeving! Thank you very, very much!


----------



## fshizl

hahaha nice rig there oliver... heres my idea...
Ruler to elevate the sleeving and for the caliper to be even...








Push down on the caliper and use a razer blade to slice..


----------



## oliverw92

No worries guys, it was something i was going to have to solve for myself anyway, so why not help others!

I like that idea fshizi, good if you don't have room for a jig/if you don't have a kitchen knife!


----------



## runeazn

wehmm do you lose warranty for sleeving?


----------



## fshizl

if you dont open the power supply or change the length of the cables.. your good.


----------



## oliverw92

Yeah don't do this and you will keep your warranty!




























You can do this however:


----------



## fshizl

lol oliver i did it too... i cut the extra 8 pin they had on there...

i left however the one 8 pin and the 24 pin..

Here is my revo...


----------



## runeazn

but i need first to cut away my sleeve of manafacure?
so isnt that breaking warranty alrdy?,
+ you are getting the pins out of the connectors?

so do you really not lose any warranty if you do this?
*sleeving i mean*


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *runeazn* 
but i need first to cut away my sleeve of manafacure?
so isnt that breaking warranty alrdy?,
+ you are getting the pins out of the connectors?

so do you really not lose any warranty if you do this?
*sleeving i mean*

you can remove the pins and slide out the sleeving if youd like... but i just cut it off to be quicker... i lable all the wires before taking them off so its easier when i put them all back into the plugs.

you wont lose warranty if you dont cut the actual wires... or open teh power supply up.


----------



## oliverw92

Lol nice revo fshizi







Weren't the splits in the cables a pain! I just cut them off in the end and rewired the entire thing!

Your fan grill - did you powdercoat it? Or did you paint it yourself?


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Lol nice revo fshizi







Weren't the splits in the cables a pain! I just cut them off in the end and rewired the entire thing!

Your fan grill - did you powdercoat it? Or did you paint it yourself?

I just painted it... a little different than my normal paint, went to the modeling store and got testors paint... flat black... looks amazing lol.

Has the same texture of the powder coating but looks perfectly flat black... and the beautiful thing is it actually contrasts from the outside powdercoating.


----------



## kidwolf909

The Revo must have some reallllly flexible cabling. My strider plus is nowhere near as limber as that!

Anyway, just finished my 24-pin. This is my first sleeving experience ever, so don't be too harsh


----------



## oliverw92

Very nice job! What you should do is get a proper 24pin connector and replace that 20+4 one. Also in the future you need to get the most important part of sleeving - the stretch. After you have heatshrinked onto the end of the crimp, you need to stretch the sleeving out so all the little gaps close up. Then you heatshrink/ziptie/whatever on the other end to hold the stretch


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Very nice job! What you should do is get a proper 24pin connector and replace that 20+4 one. Also in the future you need to get the most important part of sleeving - the stretch. After you have heatshrinked onto the end of the crimp, you need to stretch the sleeving out so all the little gaps close up. Then you heatshrink/ziptie/whatever on the other end to hold the stretch










Oh believe me... I DID/TRIED to do the stretch! It worked out pretty well on the white sleeving from MDPC, but the Clean-Cut from furryletters doesn't stretch very easily. I was using clamps to hold the stretch while shrinking it... that's how dedicated I was lol


----------



## kidwolf909

I have run into a slight problem guys...

When going to sleeve my PCI-E cable, I realized that there are filtering capacitors on the line. Unfortunately, they're only 2 inches from the end that will be seen (which sucks!).

Now, since the capacitor is connected to one yellow and one black, can I reverse the cable (put the cap closer to the PSU) and still be OK on polarity since it will still be connected to the same yellow and black?

Picture for reference:


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidwolf909* 
Oh believe me... I DID/TRIED to do the stretch! It worked out pretty well on the white sleeving from MDPC, but the Clean-Cut from furryletters doesn't stretch very easily. I was using clamps to hold the stretch while shrinking it... that's how dedicated I was lol

You know what to do next time - get all MDPC









Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidwolf909* 
I have run into a slight problem guys...

When going to sleeve my PCI-E cable, I realized that there are filtering capacitors on the line. Unfortunately, they're only 2 inches from the end that will be seen (which sucks!).

Now, since the capacitor is connected to one yellow and one black, can I reverse the cable (put the cap closer to the PSU) and still be OK on polarity since it will still be connected to the same yellow and black?

Picture for reference:










Just cut the cap off, you don't need it


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
You know what to do next time - get all MDPC









Just cut the cap off, you don't need it

Yea I know







It was just sooo much shipping!

Also, When I spoke to Tator Tot (EDIT: It was Tator) about this PSU, he specifically said that this cap is actively used to filter the output and that it isn't just there for show like the HX-series Corsair's.


----------



## oliverw92

I know people who have cut them off the striders and it is fine







Moving them closer to the PSU would completely destroy the purpose of them too


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
I know people who have cut them off the striders and it is fine







Moving them closer to the PSU would completely destroy the purpose of them too

Alrighty. Well I have another question. On a PSU, if two wires in a cable have the same color, are their pin positions interchangeable? I'm just curious because it would make my cabling so much cleaner and more organized.


----------



## shinji2k

I just ripped them off mine. Well, technically I just made my own cables. They are only on the PCIe cables so they are not necessary to keep ripple in check (although they do help). If they were, they would be on all the connectors like the ones on the Antec TPQ-1200. Their main purpose is to improve dynamic performance. The video cards can change loads very quickly resulting in voltage drops and spikes and those caps near the connectors are supposed to greatly reduce that. They are nice to have if you can keep them close to the connector, but in the case of sleeving, you aren't going to ruin the PSU by taking them off.


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shinji2k*


I just ripped them off mine. Well, technically I just made my own cables. They are only on the PCIe cables so they are not necessary to keep ripple in check (although they do help). If they were, they would be on all the connectors like the ones on the Antec TPQ-1200. Their main purpose is to improve dynamic performance. The video cards can change loads very quickly resulting in voltage drops and spikes and those caps near the connectors are supposed to greatly reduce that. They are nice to have if you can keep them close to the connector, but in the case of sleeving, you aren't going to ruin the PSU by taking them off.


Hmm... and you are sure of this? Doing so won't damage the GPU's or add wear to them? Does removing them defeat the purpose of spending $100 on a "high quality" PSU? Lol.

I wanted to be sure that I was getting a really solid and quality PSU, so removing a component of that really irks me


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kidwolf909*


Alrighty. Well I have another question. On a PSU, if two wires in a cable have the same color, are their pin positions interchangeable? I'm just curious because it would make my cabling so much cleaner and more organized.


Try and keep them the same, but ultimately it doesn't really matter.


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Try and keep them the same, but ultimately it doesn't really matter.


Alright. Thanks for the help guys! I hope it all works out!


----------



## shinji2k

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kidwolf909*


Hmm... and you are sure of this? Doing so won't damage the GPU's or add wear to them? Does removing them defeat the purpose of spending $100 on a "high quality" PSU? Lol.

I wanted to be sure that I was getting a really solid and quality PSU, so removing a component of that really irks me










You're right in that removing the caps will make the PSU a little worse. I know quite a bit about PSUs and I wasn't too bothered about taking mine off. Most PSUs do not have the extra caps, even many of the best ones on the market. They are nice to have, but the VRMs on the video cards are already designed to handle the voltage fluctuations. What you could do is move them a few inches down the wire so you can hide them behind the mobo. Just wrap them in shrink wrap or something. They wouldn't be quite as effective further down the wire, but it would still be better than taking them off. I think if you flip the wire so the cap is right next to the PSU, I don't think they would make any difference compared to if they were removed.


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shinji2k*


You're right in that removing the caps will make the PSU a little worse. I know quite a bit about PSUs and I wasn't too bothered about taking mine off. Most PSUs do not have the extra caps, even many of the best ones on the market. They are nice to have, but the VRMs on the video cards are already designed to handle the voltage fluctuations. What you could do is move them a few inches down the wire so you can hide them behind the mobo. Just wrap them in shrink wrap or something. They wouldn't be quite as effective further down the wire, but it would still be better than taking them off. I think if you flip the wire so the cap is right next to the PSU, I don't think they would make any difference compared to if they were removed.


Thanks again man! I think I will try to do that if possible







Having them at the other end of the cable near the PSU would be a total waste though? They wouldn't have any value being 10" away from the cards?


----------



## oliverw92

Well if i am right, they are designed to combat voltage fluctuations that happen in the wires from the PSU to the graphics card. So if you have it right by the PSU, you kind of defeat the point of them. I may be wrong on that though


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Well if i am right, they are designed to combat voltage fluctuations that happen in the wires from the PSU to the graphics card. So if you have it right by the PSU, you kind of defeat the point of them. I may be wrong on that though


You probably are right because that would make sense, but I'm simply seeking as many expert opinions as possible


----------



## oliverw92

shinji is possibly the best PSU expert on OCN


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


shinji is possibly the best PSU expert on OCN










Yup. Both Shinji and Tator Tot are really knowledgeable guys. And both own Strider Plus's!


----------



## shinji2k

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kidwolf909*


Thanks again man! I think I will try to do that if possible







Having them at the other end of the cable near the PSU would be a total waste though? They wouldn't have any value being 10" away from the cards?


I don't really have any data on it. I know the further the cap is from the video card, the less effective it will be at reducing fluctuations. The PCIe cables on the Strider Plus are around 22" long. Moving the caps to around the midpoint would still have some effect, but I can't really say how much. I'm not sure it's worth the extra effort beyond just cutting them off.


----------



## oliverw92

You forgot Phaedrus in that list kidwolf


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shinji2k*


I don't really have any data on it. I know the further the cap is from the video card, the less effective it will be at reducing fluctuations. The PCIe cables on the Strider Plus are around 22" long. Moving the caps to around the midpoint would still have some effect, but I can't really say how much. I'm not sure it's worth the extra effort beyond just cutting them off.


Ahh I see. Well, regardless of which route I go, thank you so much for your help!

It is very much appreciated!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


You forgot Phaedrus in that list kidwolf










Does he own a Strider Plus as well? lol... I was unaware. I know he's a very knowledgeable PSU guy, but I didn't know what he was running.


----------



## oliverw92

He doesn't need to own one







He is so dam knowledgeable


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


He doesn't need to own one







He is so dam knowledgeable


Lol... Truf.









*EDIT: Xien is watching guys!*


----------



## kidwolf909

Is it ever really an issue to switch pin positions if the wires are the same color?

My ATX 4-pin/8-pin looks like this

Yellow:

PSU End = Mobo End

1 = 2
2 = 3
3 = 1
4 = 4

Black:

5 = 5
6 = 7
7 = 6
8 = 8

I just wanna run them straight.


----------



## shinji2k

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kidwolf909*


Is it ever really an issue to switch pin positions if the wires are the same color?

My ATX 4-pin/8-pin looks like this

Yellow:

PSU End = Mobo End

1 = 2
2 = 3
3 = 1
4 = 4

Black:

5 = 5
6 = 7
7 = 6
8 = 8

I just wanna run them straight.


Especially on the CPU 8-pin I see no reason why they can't be switched. Technically on the 8-pin PCIe connector, one of the pins is supposed to be a 
12V sense wire, but I have only seen a ground put there. So pretty much you can always switch them around.


----------



## Tator Tot

Well damn I showed up to throw my 2 cents in but it looks like it was all covered.

I can say that when I get around to sleeving the strider; I'm going to try and leave them on the cables. I actually only plan to indivually sleeve the 24pin & 8Pin cables. Then I'm going to do a single sleeve on the PCIe cables. 
Then single sleeve up to the first Molex & SATA connects (which I'm going to space closer) with single-sleeve inbetween connectors.


----------



## kidwolf909

So then you would agree with Shinji that it is acceptable to remove the caps all together?

How do you feel about simply placing them at the opposite end of the cable closer to the PSU? or simply moving them further from the GPU end?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kidwolf909*


So then you would agree with Shinji that it is acceptable to remove the caps all together?

How do you feel about simply placing them at the opposite end of the cable closer to the PSU? or simply moving them further from the GPU end?


Moving them next to the PSU makes them useless.
Moving them to the end of the PCIe connector won't change how well they perform. But won't give you less performance.

If it comes down to it, you can remove them all together. But in all honesty; I would try to work with them first.


----------



## DeadMau5

I hope my MDPC sleeving arrives tomorrow then i can post some pictures here









I only did a few tests at removing the pins on a PCI cable and i cut the tips of my fingers







god help me on the 24pin


----------



## fshizl

i just finished sleeving my pciE plugs... man enermax really went out of their way to make something that i had to scrap their idea and make my own cable lol...

Without PCIe plugs...









With PCIe plugs


----------



## kidwolf909

Bravo fshizl! That looks ridiculous! I hope mine turns out somewhere near as great as yours!


----------



## kidwolf909




----------



## Tator Tot

That looks top notch Wolf.


----------



## DeadMau5

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidwolf909* 
Picz

Very nice and professional looking


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidwolf909* 









oh man, nice job [email protected]!!


----------



## Xraven771

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
i just finished sleeving my pciE plugs... man enermax really went out of their way to make something that i had to scrap their idea and make my own cable lol...

Without PCIe plugs...









With PCIe plugs









wow .... thats lush xD nice work


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


That looks top notch Wolf.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *DeadMau5*


Very nice and professional looking











Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


oh man, nice job [email protected]!!


Thanks a lot guys! I really appreciate the compliments









Now I just need to start using a better camera! This phone just isn't cutting it


----------



## thebigrobbyrob

I guess ill post some of my finished pictures here...... Ill get some close ups soon so you can see how uneven the heatshrink is but here is what I have for now..... and the Red SATA cable will be replaced soon enough...




























P.S.: thats the last time I will sleeve a non-modular PSU.


----------



## kidwolf909

I hate being at work. Dang filter always blocks pics hosted on image websites









Only stuff I can see is stuff hosted here on OCN.


----------



## mastical

Yea man, Im at work using a think client without flash installed. I cant see **** most of the time.


----------



## Yogi

Yay for being at home. So much pr0n!


----------



## kidwolf909

Just hooked up the new Strider Plus in my old HAF to make sure everything was working properly and I had it pinned right... All good!


















Obviously I have to tidy up the wires a bit so it gives the desired pattern, but it's not bad looking as it is.


----------



## D0U8L3M

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidwolf909* 
Just hooked up the new Strider Plus in my old HAF to make sure everything was working properly and I had it pinned right... All good!









Obviously I have to tidy up the wires a bit so it gives the desired pattern, but it's not bad looking as it is.

what did you end up doing with the caps on the pci cables? Or are you not finished yet.


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *D0U8L3M* 
what did you end up doing with the caps on the pci cables? Or are you not finished yet.

Haven't tackled that obstacle yet lol... I'm thinking I might move them halfway back the cable. Worst case scenario, they'll just be lopped off, unfortunately


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidwolf909* 
Haven't tackled that obstacle yet lol... I'm thinking I might move them halfway back the cable. Worst case scenario, they'll just be lopped off, unfortunately









If you're not sleeving over them; just remove them. You won't see any performance gain from not having them if they're half way back on the cable.


----------



## D0U8L3M

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
If you're not sleeving over them; just remove them. You won't see any performance gain from not having them if they're half way back on the cable.

...i thought we had this discussion before and that removing them would be bad did i miss something???


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *D0U8L3M* 
...i thought we had this discussion before and that removing them would be bad did i miss something???

Bad as in it'll reduce the ripple suppression. Though it won't be by a whole lot. And it definitely won't make the unit any less good.


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
If you're not sleeving over them; just remove them. You won't see any performance gain from not having them if they're half way back on the cable.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Bad as in it'll reduce the ripple suppression. Though it won't be by a whole lot. And it definitely won't make the unit any less good.

Wait... so halfway back on the cable (maybe 6-7" back from the card) will reduce them to having no positive effect? I don't want to sleeve over them. They are too large and interrupt the flow of the cable. I was just going to sleeve the cables that they are on and then put a big piece of heatshrink around the cap once I finish the cable.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kidwolf909* 
Wait... so halfway back on the cable (maybe 6-7" back from the card) will reduce them to having no positive effect? I don't want to sleeve over them. They are too large and interrupt the flow of the cable. I was just going to sleeve the cables that they are on and then put a big piece of heatshrink around the cap once I finish the cable.

Even if they do have an effect at that distance back, it'd be more trouble than it's worth.

They're meant to reduce ripple. But at most, you'd probably see ripple increase 3-5mv which is nothing. Though I doubt even that much.


----------



## shinji2k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Even if they do have an effect at that distance back, it'd be more trouble than it's worth.

They're meant to reduce ripple. But at most, you'd probably see ripple increase 3-5mv which is nothing. Though I doubt even that much.

I doubt they are meant to reduce ripple. If they were to reduce ripple it wouldn't matter where they were on the cable. I'm pretty sure it's for over/undershoot transients. In that case they need to be as close as possible to the component. If ripple was a problem they would be on all the major cables, not just the PCIe.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shinji2k* 
I doubt they are meant to reduce ripple. If they were to reduce ripple it wouldn't matter where they were on the cable. I'm pretty sure it's for over/undershoot transients. In that case they need to be as close as possible to the component. If ripple was a problem they would be on all the major cables, not just the PCIe.

IIRC Silverstone's marketing on the box was to reduce ripple.

But either way; if they were absolutely necessary to the PSU you'd see them everywhere like on the TruePower Quattro 1200's "PowerCache" cables.


----------



## shinji2k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
IIRC Silverstone's marketing on the box was to reduce ripple.

But either way; if they were absolutely necessary to the PSU you'd see them everywhere like on the TruePower Quattro 1200's "PowerCache" cables.

That's what I don't understand. Why aren't they on all the connectors, no matter what they are for? It's not like video cards are especially sensitive to ripple.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shinji2k* 
That's what I don't understand. Why aren't they on all the connectors, no matter what they are for? It's not like video cards are especially sensitive to ripple.

because the average consumer (IE: gamer) could give a damn about other connectors. But god help them if something happens to their GPU.

If you would notice; the question is never "will this run my CPU & other components" it's usually "is this PSU enough for my GPU."

There's a high chariot held for the GPU.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
because the average consumer (IE: gamer) could give a damn about other connectors. But god help them if something happens to their GPU.

If you would notice; the question is never "will this run my CPU & other components" it's usually "is this PSU enough for my GPU."

There's a high chariot held for the GPU.

Indeed. We don't think about it much, but I'd say we probably value our GPU's over our processors, whether we realise it or not.


----------



## oliverw92

Well most of the time the GPU is the most expensive component in a pc (not for me atm, my motherboard is







)


----------



## DeadMau5

Still waiting for my sleeving


----------



## sequencius

hey guys, is it worth it to sleeve my Antec Neo 550w (Half-Modular)?
I don't think I'll be upgrading the PSU in the future as I like to keep things simple, 1 gpu, 1 HDD, 4g of RAM at most. Only thing I'll be changing is the mobo. So it looks like I'll be keeping this PSU for awhile.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sequencius* 
hey guys, is it worth it to sleeve my Antec Neo 550w (Half-Modular)?
I don't think I'll be upgrading the PSU in the future as I like to keep things simple, 1 gpu, 1 HDD, 4g of RAM at most. Only thing I'll be changing is the mobo. So it looks like I'll be keeping this PSU for awhile.

Definitely. You might want to see which motherboard manufacturer you'll most likely buy so you can match the color scheme (Gigabyte for example can usually be lightblue/darkblue/white/gray/black)


----------



## sequencius

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
Definitely. You might want to see which motherboard manufacturer you'll most likely buy so you can match the color scheme (Gigabyte for example can usually be lightblue/darkblue/white/gray/black)

yes that's exactly what i was thinking! thanks.


----------



## oliverw92

Orange and black go surprisingly well with Gigabyte boards


----------



## Machiyariko

Here is my first attempt at cable sleeving. My PSU cables are black so, black and red became the theme for this build. It took me quite a while to get a rhythm going but I really enjoyed the end product. I'll definitely be sleeving my next one! This thread helped me out a lot.
Thanks everyone for all of the great info here.


----------



## ghettogeddy

paracord ftw

wish i was better with heat shrink


----------



## DeadMau5

Yeaaaaaaahhh


----------



## mastical

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DeadMau5* 

Yeaaaaaaahhh


Cool, isnt it exciting getting started on a new project? Let us know how it goes/ turns out.


----------



## Yogi

Still need to sleeve my 8 pin extension.

Pics of the new loop


----------



## MijnWraak

AWESOME work yogi!









Love the mushkins, too


----------



## Chicken Patty

@ yogi

that is just awesome bro, amazingly clean! I think I'm in love.









Got a few questions though:

With the Optical Drive that close to your PSU, does it still get enough air, or does it intake by the bottom?
Are you going to be putting a rear case fan to exhaust?


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
Still need to sleeve my 8 pin extension.

Pics of the new loop



I LOVE this! Amazing job Yogi! The whole thing looks sick. Keep up the good work!


----------



## mastical

Yogi, what side panel are you using? Is it a pain to open it to use the OD?


----------



## MijnWraak

I didnt know people even used optical drives anymore xD I needed mine once in the past 2 years.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
I didnt know people even used optical drives anymore xD I needed mine once in the past 2 years.

You need it for installing Windows, and games. And I burn off CD's and Data disks rather often.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
I didnt know people even used optical drives anymore xD I needed mine once in the past 2 years.

I burn a hundred or more disks a month. I can't imagine not having one. It's one of the reasons that I see netbooks as nothing more than oversized PDAs. But then I still have 3.5" floppy drives in all of mine (except for my laptop) as well.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
You need it for installing Windows, and games. And I burn off CD's and Data disks rather often.

External hard drives can install windows too







Meh, I was just never a CD/DVD person I guess


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
You need it for installing Windows, and games. And I burn off CD's and Data disks rather often.

Or if you have Steam, you don't really need one for that at all. I decided to exclude one from my build since I don't use it enough to justify uglying up the front of my case. Might as well get an external cover for it and use it that way.


----------



## oliverw92

I've included one in my build but i have ultra-stealthed it


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mastical* 
Yogi, what side panel are you using? Is it a pain to open it to use the OD?

No side panel. I barely even use the drive. I removed it before I did the mod, but decided to add it in.


----------



## kr3w561

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Elite-* 
Yeah well it will have to be later when I have some money. As I just went to compusa today and bought a Corsair 800D, which is a BEAST!!! And I also bought Corsair Dominator 6GB.

Did you go to the one in northlake? If so I work there xD


----------



## oliverw92

Did you seal the ends of the sleeve after you cut it?


----------



## mastical

Let the heatshrink cool before you move it around.


----------



## DeadMau5

ive spent around 4hours today trying to sleeve one single wire on a 6pin pci-e lol

i cant get the lengths right









I'm yet to be happy with the results. Anyone wanna sleeve it from me?









i cant find a decent guide on single sleeving.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DeadMau5* 
ive spent around 4hours today trying to sleeve one single wire on a 6pin pci-e lol

i cant get the lengths right









I'm yet to be happy with the results. Anyone wanna sleeve it from me?









i cant find a decent guide on single sleeving.

Ship it to me and pay me and I'll do the whole job for you in under 1 week.

Though being across the pond might make the time to get it back to you a little longer.


----------



## DeadMau5

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Ship it to me and pay me and I'll do the whole job for you in under 1 week.

Though being across the pond might make the time to get it back to you a little longer.


if you were in the UK i would







shipping to the US then back + import tax and VAT would be too expensive.

ill just have to practice a bit more.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DeadMau5* 
ive spent around 4hours today trying to sleeve one single wire on a 6pin pci-e lol

i cant get the lengths right










I'm yet to be happy with the results. Anyone wanna sleeve it from me?









i cant find a decent guide on single sleeving.

Practice makes perfect!


----------



## mastical

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DeadMau5* 
ive spent around 4hours today trying to sleeve one single wire on a 6pin pci-e lol

i cant get the lengths right









I'm yet to be happy with the results. Anyone wanna sleeve it from me?









i cant find a decent guide on single sleeving.

Practice, you'll get it. Once you find the right length, cut all your sleeves that length. And do the same for your heatshrink. I found that to be the most troublesome part for me.


----------



## DeadMau5

I guess ill start by doing some fan wires and other small parts that are not so complicated.

At this rate ill need another 50meters of sleeve lol


----------



## oliverw92

You can send all the modular cables and sleeve to me to sleeve if you like?


----------



## Tator Tot

Oli if I send you this PSU will you sleeve it for me, and paint it? I want all white sleeve, paint, and connectors


----------



## oliverw92

Srs? Why would you do that to a $80 PSU? Sleeving alone would cost more than that.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Srs? Why would you do that to a $80 PSU? Sleeving alone would cost more than that.


Because it's the S12-E Platform for very cheap. Aka Corsair HX650. Or XFX 650w. Which is really nice for the price.

I just don't have the tools to give it a good powder coating. But I'm considering doing it. And having a perfectly white PSU








But I hate the repetition of sleeving with a passion.


----------



## oliverw92

I tell you the thing i'm not too keen on - having to unsolder the power plug to take the entire thing apart.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


I tell you the thing i'm not too keen on - having to unsolder the power plug to take the entire thing apart.


You wouldn't have to unsolder anything on that PSU. 
The PCB is only screwed down, and it's non-modular.

Those strait SATA connectors never seem to come apart for me. I always replace them with right angle ones.


----------



## oliverw92

No i mean the power plug on the back - they are inserted from the outside and then soldered to cables which are soldered to the PCB, unless i am mistaken?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


No i mean the power plug on the back - they are inserted from the outside and then soldered to cables which are soldered to the PCB, unless i am mistaken?


That actually depends on OEM's.

Some of the Plug's on the back of Seasonic's are easy to take off. Some are not. 
I usually don't have much trouble. But I've only worked on PCP&C & Corsair models.

I did a sleeving job on a M12D once and it was the same. But it's still rather limited exposure. Only 2 different platforms (S/M12D & S12)

They'll always be soldered. But the actual task of de-soldering is varied in how hard it is between Platforms & OEMs.

I did a my Strider Plus and it was probably the hardest. It really depends on the amount of space you have to work with. 
The Seasonic S12-E is actually easy to work with. This pic show's all 3 connections you need to remove. The 2 Blue wires, and unscrew the ground wire (green) and you're good to go.

Even though there's not alot of space, the PCB mount make things alot easier.


----------



## oliverw92

IDK man i could do it for you, but i wont be able to powdercoat it, only give it a rattle can job.


----------



## Tator Tot

Lol I was only teasin
















I have it sitting under my desk right now. I'm going to get it powder coated with my Antec 300 as well. White inside the 300, black outside.


----------



## oliverw92

Oh ok


----------



## Tator Tot

Shipping a PSU + Supplies to the UK would kill me









If I did have someone do it; it would be state-side.

Unless I was visiting Germany or Ireland again.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Shipping a PSU + Supplies to the UK would kill me









If I did have someone do it; it would be state-side.

Unless I was visiting Germany or Ireland again.


Tbh Tator, you sounded serious







Or at least you had me fooled haha.


----------



## Tator Tot

That's why Tator doesn't enter troll mode either. Serious face engages and the world believes my lies.









I was half serious tbh, I wish I had the dough to just ship Oli the tools & materials and have him do it for me. It'd be easy and nice.


----------



## ghettogeddy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ghettogeddy* 
paracord ftw

wish i was better with heat shrink









[


----------



## Chicken Patty

Would love to see the end results of that P182


----------



## Shane1244

What at-home tools can I use/make for sleeving my PSU? I'm bored, and looking for something to do..









I'll be purchasing FurryLetter ASAP!








EDIT: Which reminds me, have we found a good, cheap Heat Shrink hopefully available by FurryLetters yet?


----------



## mastical

Youll need a lighter/candle/heatgun, sharp scissors, some tool to measure the heatshrink, and youll need a pin pusher.

I bought the Sunbeam kit and it worked perfect. Some people use staples or small pins to push the pins. You can craft up your own tool there.

Furryletters has great sleeving but Im unsure about the HS. I used MDPC which was great and some from Koolertek that I used for my fan and smaller stuff.

Look on the first page youll see 2 saftey pins heatshrunk together, its a popular tool you can make.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mastical* 
Youll need a lighter/candle/heatgun, sharp scissors, some tool to measure the heatshrink, and youll need a pin pusher.

I bought the Sunbeam kit and it worked perfect. Some people use staples or small pins to push the pins. You can craft up your own tool there.

Furryletters has great sleeving but Im unsure about the HS. I used MDPC which was great and some from Koolertek that I used for my fan and smaller stuff.

Look on the first page youll see 2 saftey pins heatshrunk together, its a popular tool you can make.

Oh perfect! That's the tool that I was unsure of what to use.

Thanks!+


----------



## spiderm0nkey

If you can, try to use a blue flame as opposed to a yellow flame when you are heatshrinking. The yellow flames leave carbon residue on the heatshrink, making it look dirty. Burning the shrink is common with a yellow flame too since it isn't quite as hot as the blue, so you try and get closer and then it just burns instead of shrinking







Burnt heatshrink smells terrible









It is possible to do it nicely with a yellow flame, but it's far easier and there are less hassles if you do it with a blue flame.


----------



## oliverw92

For sealing sleeve ends i use a candle or a blow torch. For shrinking heatshrink i use a hot air gun.


----------



## Tator Tot

I personally just use a normal lighter and turn it into a "crack-lighter"

It' s a simple process, you need one of the lighters with an adjustable wheel, take the housing off, take the wheel adjuster off, and keep turning the little dial up till you have a nice large flame.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


If you can, try to use a blue flame as opposed to a yellow flame when you are heatshrinking. The yellow flames leave carbon residue on the heatshrink, making it look dirty. Burning the shrink is common with a yellow flame too since it isn't quite as hot as the blue, so you try and get closer and then it just burns instead of shrinking







Burnt heatshrink smells terrible









It is possible to do it nicely with a yellow flame, but it's far easier and there are less hassles if you do it with a blue flame.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


For sealing sleeve ends i use a candle or a blow torch. For shrinking heatshrink i use a hot air gun.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I personally just use a normal lighter and turn it into a "crack-lighter"

It' s a simple process, you need one of the lighters with an adjustable wheel, take the housing off, take the wheel adjuster off, and keep turning the little dial up till you have a nice large flame.


I'm planning on using a propane blowtorch. I've used heat shrink with it before, and from about 10cm away, it's got a nice steady heat.

For sealing the ends, I'll experiment, I'm sure your way will be best Oliver.









Rep to all three of [email protected]


----------



## bfeng91

Just curious, how do you think light blue and white sleeving from MDPC-X look together? And also under UV light







cuz I know that light blue is UV reactive, not too sure about the white, though it should glow somewhat.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bfeng91*


Just curious, how do you think light blue and white sleeving from MDPC-X look together? And also under UV light







cuz I know that light blue is UV reactive, not too sure about the white, though it should glow somewhat.


I think it'd look pretty good.

fshizil has a great build with MDPC-X Grey & Light Blue and it's probably one of the sexiest combo's I've seen. Ever.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I think it'd look pretty good.

fshizil has a great build with MDPC-X Grey & Light Blue and it's probably one of the sexiest combo's I've seen. Ever.


I agree. His build is AMAZING.


----------



## oliverw92

MDPC sleeving is not UV active, except for white which is UV active by default (white auto responds to UV).

You could use the blow torch to seal the ends too, Shane.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


MDPC sleeving is not UV active, except for white which is UV active by default (white auto responds to UV).

You could use the blow torch to seal the ends too, Shane.


Oh okay. Thanks!







I'll cut a few short pieces and test it.

FurryLetters just got back to me, 150ft 1/8 CC, and 10ft of 1/4" 2:1. $35 Shipped to Canada. Nice!


----------



## oliverw92

2:1 won't be good enough - you will find that the sleeving will pull out. In contrast, MDPC sleeving is 4:1. You want 3:1 minimum.


----------



## Shane1244

Hmm, That's all I can get really...

I'll see if I can get like 3/16 2:1 If not, I'll have to go to some local stores.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


MDPC sleeving is not UV active


"Is this MDPC-Sleeve UV-active?
Yes it is! "

RE: Green sleeve @ mdpc-x

As is Red, Orange, Yellow, Aquamarine, and White obviously.


----------



## kidwolf909

Something tells me a propane blow torch would melt the bejesus out of the connectors... that would require a LOT of care and precision.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Nah. It shrinks the tubing so fast you don't leave it under the heat long enough to do any damage.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


MDPC sleeving is not UV active, except for white which is UV active by default (white auto responds to UV).

You could use the blow torch to seal the ends too, Shane.


Certainly is UV reactive







My green stuff looks lovely under UV. Was disappointed that the purple wasn't though because that would've looked sweet.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


2:1 won't be good enough - you will find that the sleeving will pull out. In contrast, MDPC sleeving is 4:1. You want 3:1 minimum.


I found that even 3:1 wasn't good enough for the perfect shrink job. 4:1 really is the best option to go for as it shrinks down much more than the 3:1.


----------



## oliverw92

Orly, I was getting confused - I remember Nils talking about how he didn't make the purple UV because it would change the actual colour of the sleeve under normal light. I assumed that applied to the others.


----------



## ghettogeddy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ghettogeddy* 
[



































got the 4 to 8 pin adapter in now im just waiting for my cpu to show so i can fire this baby up


----------



## Shane1244

Well, I ordered the 1:2, It was only like $2 from FurryLetters, so if It dosn't work, no real loss, I can always use it for other things. Then I'll just hit up Lowes/Home Depot and buy some 3:1 or 4:1


----------



## Dilyn

Hey look! People that have experience with sleeving!!








I would ask my friend... But he hasn't been on AIM in weeks. So I have decided to come to OCN. But I also didn't want to make a new thread, so I figured I'd post here









My birthday is in a couple weeks so I will be receiving some cash, and I have a project planned for my next case that I'm getting for Christmas. Now, I want to sleeve my PSU. My aforementioned friend is awesome at sleeving, and does all kinds of sleeve jobs. His latest one was just fantastic. But I can't ask him questions, he seems to have fallen off the face of the planet (I might be able to get some nice stuff and for cheap too if I can finally get to speak with him).

*1)* How much sleeving would it take to individually sleeve all of my cables? 24 pin, 4/8 pin, the PCIe cables, SATA, and molex. The whole shebang. It's semi modular (the 24 pin, and the two 4 and 4/8) cables are permanently attached) but all the other cables are modular.

*2)*What size sleeving should I be looking for to do this (and the respective lengths for said sizes)? I honestly have never sleeved anything before... So this is kind of a HUGE project and I want to be as informed as possible. I've read all most if not all of the guides in the OP, but I see nobody recommending sizes (I'm thinking 1/8" though?).

*3)* COLORS! I want to do white. The entire theme that I'm thinking of is going to be black (case), red (video card, keyboard backlights, possibly some cathodes if they won't look tacky and some red R4s or something), and white (sleeving). However, my friend said that a blue motherboard would look stupid there







. Thoughts?

*4)* Where would the best place to go about purchasing some sleeving be? I've checked out MDPC-x and Furryletters. Both seem AWESOME. But I'm on a tight budget, so I need the best high quality/cheap price ratio I can get









If I can think of any more questions, I will be sure to ask








Thanks for any help you guys can offer up!


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dilyn*


Hey look! People that have experience with sleeving!!








I would ask my friend... But he hasn't been on AIM in weeks. So I have decided to come to OCN. But I also didn't want to make a new thread, so I figured I'd post here









My birthday is in a couple weeks so I will be receiving some cash, and I have a project planned for my next case that I'm getting for Christmas. Now, I want to sleeve my PSU. My aforementioned friend is awesome at sleeving, and does all kinds of sleeve jobs. His latest one was just fantastic. But I can't ask him questions, he seems to have fallen off the face of the planet (I might be able to get some nice stuff and for cheap too if I can finally get to speak with him).

*1)* How much sleeving would it take to individually sleeve all of my cables? 24 pin, 4/8 pin, the PCIe cables, SATA, and molex. The whole shebang. It's semi modular (the 24 pin, and the two 4 and 4/8) cables are permanently attached) but all the other cables are modular.

*2)*What size sleeving should I be looking for to do this (and the respective lengths for said sizes)? I honestly have never sleeved anything before... So this is kind of a HUGE project and I want to be as informed as possible. I've read all most if not all of the guides in the OP, but I see nobody recommending sizes (I'm thinking 1/8" though?).

*3)* COLORS! I want to do white. The entire theme that I'm thinking of is going to be black (case), red (video card, keyboard backlights, possibly some cathodes if they won't look tacky and some red R4s or something), and white (sleeving). However, my friend said that a blue motherboard would look stupid there







. Thoughts?

*4)* Where would the best place to go about purchasing some sleeving be? I've checked out MDPC-x and Furryletters. Both seem AWESOME. But I'm on a tight budget, so I need the best high quality/cheap price ratio I can get









If I can think of any more questions, I will be sure to ask








Thanks for any help you guys can offer up!


1) It really depends from PSU to PSU. I believe generally, to do your whole PC, You'll be looking at ~400ft?

2) 1/8"

3&4) White will definitely look awesome. Keep in mind, if youw ant white, You'll have to buy MDPC, as FurryLetters only has CleanCut in black. AFAIK.


----------



## Dilyn

~400 feet... Oh boy!









I checked FurryLetters and the only white that was there was NOT 1/8" (forget the exact size... 1.5 or 2?). 
MDPC it is then!


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dilyn*


~400 feet... Oh boy!









I checked FurryLetters and the only white that was there was NOT 1/8" (forget the exact size... 1.5 or 2?). 
MDPC it is then!


ahhh i wanna order off them too
shipping is a pain
stupid international


----------



## MijnWraak

I'd be happy with 250 feet to be honest. then again you wouldnt want to be short!

Yeah dont get any color other than black from furryletters (clean cut). its the cheap single strand on white/colors.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dilyn*


~400 feet... Oh boy!









I checked FurryLetters and the only white that was there was NOT 1/8" (forget the exact size... 1.5 or 2?). 
MDPC it is then!


Again, It varies. Also, I was including the rest of your wires, such as fans, usb headers. etc..


----------



## Yogi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dilyn*


Hey look! People that have experience with sleeving!!











1) Probably ~200 feet or 250 to be safe. You can just measure the wires yourself or try to find a review of your psu and they usually have the cable lengths.

2) 1/8th

3) Maybe try painting your GPU fan shroud? Usually the them is going to be whatever the color of the mobo is.

4) MDPC-X. Get the heatshrink there as well.


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


I'd be happy with 250 feet to be honest. then again you wouldnt want to be short!

Yeah dont get any color other than black from furryletters (clean cut). its the cheap single strand on white/colors.


Thanks for the heads up.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


Again, It varies. Also, I was including the rest of your wires, such as fans, usb headers. etc..


Well, the only two fans that aren't sleeved are the fans in push-pull, and you can't even see those wires. the only cable coming from the front of my PC right now is the power button... But with the new case I will probably use more of them.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yogi*


1) Probably ~200 feet or 250 to be safe. You can just measure the wires yourself or try to find a review of your psu and they usually have the cable lengths.











I should've thought of that!

Quote:



2) 1/8th

3) Maybe try painting your GPU fan shroud? Usually the them is going to be whatever the color of the mobo is.

4) MDPC-X. Get the heatshrink there as well.


Paint the lovely lady on my shroud? How terrible









What size heatshrink should I get?


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dilyn*


What size heatshrink should I get?


1/4" 4:1 from MDPC


----------



## oliverw92

400ft are you CRAZY??!!! That is 120m! 200ft MAX for a whole PSU and case. Seriously lol.

Heatshrink, get it all from MDPC. You want small heatshrink for uni-sleeving cables and you will want some SATA heatshrink for sata cables.

Word of warning - white sleeving is very hard to get perfect because the colour of the cables below will always show through. I advise wrapping the cables in white electrical tape if you can be bothered, it will make it truly white and awesome.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


400ft are you CRAZY??!!! That is 120m! 200ft MAX for a whole PSU and case. Seriously lol.

Heatshrink, get it all from MDPC. You want small heatshrink for uni-sleeving cables and you will want some SATA heatshrink for sata cables.

Word of warning - white sleeving is very hard to get perfect because the colour of the cables below will always show through. I advise wrapping the cables in white electrical tape if you can be bothered, it will make it truly white and awesome.


^o^ oops







I did see a guy use 400ft before. He must have had a massive PSU.


----------



## oliverw92

That would mean each cable coming out of the PSU would be over 1m long. I highly doubt that


----------



## Tator Tot

The last time I ordered sleeving from MDPC it was a Family Pack (~650 feet) and I definitely only used about 150 Feet on a PSU.

EDIT: But I did know I was using it for more than one unit.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


That would mean each cable coming out of the PSU would be over 1m long. I highly doubt that










The Cosair HX1000 is only a 1000 watt PSU, and it has a little under 75m of Cables, + Fans, USB Headders, Power Buttons, Miss-Cuts. I could see 100m being possible.


----------



## oliverw92

Uhm the wattage has nothing to do with the lengths of the cables


----------



## Lost-boi

Im completely rewiring my HX1000W and I only bought 200 feet lol, 400 feet would do 2 large PSUs.


----------



## Dilyn

Alright so I'll go find the lengths of all my cables. 200ft at most then...
I'll try to find some white tape to put on the cables. I want it to look as pretty as possible!!!
Thinking about using black heatshrink for contrast. Thoughts?


----------



## oliverw92

200ft, not 200m.

I would just go with white heatshrink. I found black/white contrast like that to not look quite right.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Word of warning - white sleeving is very hard to get perfect because the colour of the cables below will always show through. I advise wrapping the cables in white electrical tape if you can be bothered, it will make it truly white and awesome.


Or paint them with white paint prior to sleeving it.


----------



## oliverw92

If you do that, you might as well just cut the cables off and replace them with white cables. That is what i have done on mine, took 3 hours tops.


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


200ft, not 200m.

I would just go with white heatshrink. I found black/white contrast like that to not look quite right.


What typo









Too Google to see what it looks like!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Or paint them with white paint prior to sleeving it.


Semi brilliant!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


If you do that, you might as well just cut the cables off and replace them with white cables. That is what i have done on mine, took 3 hours tops.


I might have three hours to do it, but I don't trust myself enough to be snipping my PSU that badly









How MUCH heatshrink would I need?


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Uhm the wattage has nothing to do with the lengths of the cables


The number of cables. Generally.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dilyn*


How MUCH heatshrink would I need?


Figure 2" per wire (that would allow a bit of extra) so multiply 2 x number of wires to be sleeved.


----------



## Dilyn

See now this is where it would be helpful to know the conversions for the European system to the American system off the top of my head >.<

Thanks for all the help guys. Looks like I'm gonna have to do some money saving/stuff selling to pay for this stuff.


----------



## oliverw92

Dilyn i use two pieces of 15mm per wire. So give yourself a bit extra and work it out


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Dilyn i use two pieces of 15mm per wire. So give yourself a bit extra and work it out


That works out to be about 1.25" per wire. 15mm is app 5/8"


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dilyn*


I might have three hours to do it, but I don't trust myself enough to be snipping my PSU that badly










If you went that route, you'd need to buy a crimping tool as well, which isn't cheap, although it is worth it. I'd say stick with painting the wires, unless you really want to have a go at custom cables


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Dilyn i use two pieces of 15mm per wire. So give yourself a bit extra and work it out



Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


That works out to be about 1.25" per wire. 15mm is app 5/8"



So much math!!!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


If you went that route, you'd need to buy a crimping tool as well, which isn't cheap, although it is worth it. I'd say stick with painting the wires, unless you really want to have a go at custom cables










I think I have one of those in my basement, actually.


----------



## oliverw92

It has to be a specific crimping tool. The best one is the MDPC one, none of the others fold the pins in correctly.


----------



## Dilyn

Then I'm going with the original plan and finding some white painters tape!
Hopefully my grandma gets back from vacation soon so I can start working again. I miss getting $60 every week


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
Then I'm going with the original plan and finding some white painters tape!
Hopefully my grandma gets back from vacation soon so I can start working again. I miss getting $60 every week









The only downside to using tape over the cables is that it reduces the flexibility of the cables and they become quite tough to manipulate if you're wanting to route them tidily. Been there, done it and don't recommend it







Need to re-do the ones that I did with tape because it's so infuriating trying to work with those cables. If you can pick up a cheap can of white spray paint, it really would be the best option to go with if you don't want to spend too much etc.


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
The only downside to using tape over the cables is that it reduces the flexibility of the cables and they become quite tough to manipulate if you're wanting to route them tidily. Been there, done it and don't recommend it







Need to re-do the ones that I did with tape because it's so infuriating trying to work with those cables. If you can pick up a cheap can of white spray paint, it really would be the best option to go with if you don't want to spend too much etc.










How many of these do you think I'd have to buy to do all the cables then?
Learned something new: Sears sells spray paint.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 








How many of these do you think I'd have to buy to do all the cables then?
Learned something new: Sears sells spray paint.

That would work. Just note that some states have a age limit to buy spray paint, usually 18+.


----------



## Dilyn

When I was doing my case mod, I was fourteen. Bought 3 cans of black spray paint, 2 cans of grey primer, and 2 cans of clear coat. Was never asked for ID.
This is why Michigan is cool sometimes


----------



## PapaSmurf

You wouldn't even use one full can to do the cables.


----------



## Dilyn

This is news I like to here.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 








This is news I like to here.

yep one should suffice


----------



## Dilyn

Now I just need to transfer the money from my PayPal ($5 ftw!) and then I can go to Sears and pick it u--
It's out of stock at the one down the street


----------



## PapaSmurf

Walmart also carries that same paint and cheaper. K-Mart should have it as well.


----------



## Dilyn

There's a K mart down the street.
And I might be going there for an interview on Saturday.









EDIT
Can you tell me if I'm right here?
I opened a PDF on the amount of cables that my PSU has.
I added them all (wire for wire) and got 122 wires. I plan on heatshrinking with 1.5cm of heatshrink for each wire, so that gives me 183cm of heatshrink. Which is 1.83m. So I'm planning on buying 2m of heatshrink. Yes? Or am I completely off?

Also: Any way to change the prices out of Euro and into USD?

















Looks good?


----------



## DeadMau5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dilyn*


There's a K mart down the street.
And I might be going there for an interview on Saturday.









EDIT
Can you tell me if I'm right here?
I opened a PDF on the amount of cables that my PSU has.
I added them all (wire for wire) and got 122 wires. I plan on heatshrinking with 1.5cm of heatshrink for each wire, so that gives me 183cm of heatshrink. Which is 1.83m. So I'm planning on buying 2m of heatshrink. Yes? Or am I completely off?

Also: Any way to change the prices out of Euro and into USD?









Looks good?


You'll need double the ammount of heatshrink for both ends of the wire so it would be 366cm, 3.66m

Also remember its better to have to much than too litle

See Here for converting into USD it will also work out cheaper since there will be no TAX.


----------



## Dilyn

I did all that and it's still in Euros


----------



## mastical

90 euros is about $116 plus tax and shipping.


----------



## Dilyn

Ya I know I figured that one out (Google ftw) but I just don't like having to resort to Google to find out my prices









If all goes well, this stuff should be ordered by the week after my birthday... Or sooner, depending on other variables.

Thank you all for the help guys. I will be sure to take plenty of pictures when it's done


----------



## Shane1244

My god that is expensive.. I guess you pay a fine premium for the best!


----------



## Dilyn

I hope I can do it justice


----------



## DeadMau5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dilyn*


I hope I can do it justice










i tried and failed lol couldnt do it right at all even with MDPC stuff


----------



## Dilyn

Do NOT tell me that.









Now I am horrified that I'll mess it up and it'll look ugly.
This is why it's modular! I can practice


----------



## DeadMau5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dilyn*


Do NOT tell me that.









Now I am horrified that I'll mess it up and it'll look ugly.
This is why it's modular! I can practice










yeah practise i had no time to practise or do the whole PSU tbh and i dont have the patience either so i sent it out to be done by someone here


----------



## PapaSmurf

Practice on a couple of fans first, then do the PSU.


----------



## Dilyn

I do have a couple of fans just sitting here doing nothing...
But that's because they're broken.









I will definitely be sure to practice. But it'll be a while before I can do that.

EDIT








Miscalculated the amount of wires I had to sleeve. Did you know that SATA cables have 5 wires, not 4?








So that leaves me with 7cm of mess up space after you total it all up. I think I might need more than that... As 7cm is four spare heatshrink pieces


----------



## fshizl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dilyn*


I do have a couple of fans just sitting here doing nothing...
But that's because they're broken.









I will definitely be sure to practice. But it'll be a while before I can do that.

EDIT








Miscalculated the amount of wires I had to sleeve. Did you know that SATA cables have 5 wires, not 4?








So that leaves me with 7cm of mess up space after you total it all up. I think I might need more than that... As 7cm is four spare heatshrink pieces










any of those broken fans scythes? or gentle typhoons?


----------



## Dilyn

No. One is an Apevia blue LED fan that is slowly falling apart and the other one may or may not be functioning (came with the case).

I did the math (wasted an entire sheet of paper on it) and I've come to the conclusion that I will need ~49 meters of sleeving at a minimum. If I had 20% to that, I get a little under 59 meters. So my original conclusion of 60 meters is dead on. I feel so awesome now


----------



## PapaSmurf

You could have saved a tree and done it in a SpreadSheet.


----------



## Dilyn

Too lazy.
Plus, I haven't hand written anything in ages and needed to see if my writing would be good enough for my math notes this year. It is.


----------



## Shane1244

What is this writing with ones hand you speak of?


----------



## PapaSmurf

I only write on sticky notes or dvd/cds I've burned.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

These days most of my writing is done with my graphics tablet


----------



## Dilyn

You people are so fancy.


----------



## Ragsters

Can someone who buys from MDPC-X help me with this?
http://www.overclock.net/wanted/7991...l#post10323976


----------



## godofdeath

anyone ordering from mdpc-x soon, want to split shipping and stuff?


----------



## fshizl

I would but I don't see how splitting shipping would help when you gotta ship to Cali or me ship to new York lol.


----------



## oliverw92

Yeah that doesn't help at all - whoever received it would then have to pay or get the other person to pay to send it on.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


I would but I don't see how splitting shipping would help when you gotta ship to Cali or me ship to new York lol.


I live in cali and all I want is the M3 Brain Washers. If you buy some sleeving would you be willing to add those washers to your cart? They don't even meet the minimum purchase price so I can not get them by themselves.
http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-mounting/s...nwasher-m3.htm


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ragsters* 
I live in cali and all I want is the M3 Brain Washers. If you buy some sleeving would you be willing to add those washers to your cart? They don't even meet the minimum purchase price so I can not get them by themselves.
http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-mounting/s...nwasher-m3.htm

lol, i have brainwashers in the mail coming already...

i usually order and not worry about shipping... its 11.50 always... unless i get the tools, which i already did...









the way i see it is, lets say we do split shipping... its 6 bucks per person, then you gotta pay 3-4 dollars more to ship it out... comes out to 10 bucks... i rather just pay the full price and have it shipped directly too me...


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
lol, i have brainwashers in the mail coming already...

i usually order and not worry about shipping... its 11.50 always... unless i get the tools, which i already did...









the way i see it is, lets say we do split shipping... its 6 bucks per person, then you gotta pay 3-4 dollars more to ship it out... comes out to 10 bucks... i rather just pay the full price and have it shipped directly too me...

Do you have any left over? You see I can't order the washers by themselves because they have a minimum purchase. Can I just buy some from you? I just need like 10.

*Edit:*If you can't or don't want to send me that many can you at least send me a couple just to see if I like them and if it is worth it to buy more?


----------



## Shane1244

Where can I buy those Sata power connectors that are like 90 degrees. The ones that you just clamp on to the wries?


----------



## PapaSmurf

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...1f292c5f541ea3 They are on the third page and are called Punch Down connectors. They have them in black as well as colors. Be careful when you order as there are two kinds of caps, pass through and end caps on the same page. You have to select which type you need. I got some earlier this week.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...1f292c5f541ea3 They are on thhird page and are called Punch Down connectors. They have them in black as well as colors. Be careful when you order as there are two kinds of caps, pass through and end caps on the same page. You have to select which type you need. I got some earlier this week.


Thanks +REP. I'm going to try to find them cheaper on eBay.









Edit: 5 for $2 Free Shipping!








http://cgi.ebay.ca/5X-SATA-Punch-Dow...efaultDomain_0


----------



## oliverw92

Make sure if you make your own cables you use the right wire - if they follow official Molex specs the wire should be AWG18 with an outer diameter of 2.1-2.5mm and should have PVC insulation not silicon.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Make sure if you make your own cables you use the right wire - if they follow official Molex specs the wire should be AWG18 with an outer diameter of 2.1-2.5mm and should have PVC insulation not silicon.

Will do, I'm not to concerned about the official specs though, I've only got 1 3.5", 1 2.5" and 1 SSD to power. So, I'll use just about any black wire that will fit that I can get my hands on.

Edit: If I end up getting some nice black wire, without any writing on it. Do you think I should just leave it bare? or Sleeve it? It's not going to be seen, and I think it'd just be a waste of time.


----------



## oliverw92

Just leave it bare.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Just leave it bare.

Thank god, ahha, Didn't feel like sleeving like 20 small 1" sections..









Also just asked a friend that is an electrician, and he said he had TONS of the exact wire I was looking for. So I might be getting like a couple hundred feet of it for free.







AFAIK, That's some serious cash.


----------



## oliverw92

Wire is cheap







So no it's not some serious cash







I can get 100 metres of black AWG18 wire for Â£8


----------



## Dilyn

Oli is raining on parades


----------



## Shane1244

Oh wow, I thought it would've been a good $40 worth. I guess it all depends on how much I get. Either way, I love free stuff.


----------



## oliverw92

Well it depends where you go - on places like ebay you will get royally ripped off, but if you buy in bulk from electronics suppliers (not places like radioshack) you can get it dirt cheap.


----------



## Shane1244

Hmm, I' not sure of any places like that around me.


----------



## jrgull13

You can mail order it too. have been looking into that for when I do my DIY.. going to custom my cables.. assuming I get that far.

btw, Idk if it's been mentioned before, but I found a place that sells PET sleeving and heatshrink.. but you have to buy it in pretty hefty amounts

http://www.buyheatshrink.com/heatshr...lyolefin.htm#B

So if you do a lot of sleeving, it might be worthwhile to invest in some of the large amounts.

EDIT: These are expensive, and the place as a 25 USD minimum order.. but I thought they were cool...
http://www.elecdirect.com/catalog/17...7e8aa08c2.aspx

They also have heat shrink for half decent price also, 3:1 adhesive.


----------



## KZISME

Does anyone know where I can get relitivley cheap blue and white sleeves please pm me a link if anyone has some help


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KZISME*


Does anyone know where I can get relitivley cheap blue and white sleeves please pm me a link if anyone has some help


pmed


----------



## Bigboi24

Hey, buys. I just wanted to show my homemade pin removers since a couple of people have done so haha.
I also wondering what size sleeving fits USB cables and what size heat shrink, as I'm going to sleeve my PSU(actually just the molex and sata connectors as those are modular and won't require opening my PSU and I bought a 24 pin extension cable, yeah, I know, its's cheating lol)
The ATX pin remover was made from wiper blade inserts, ground down until they fit epoxy puttied to the handle which is a pen body. Same with the 4pin remover, just the tubes were broken antenna tubes from,well, an antenna lol


----------



## Tribulex

wiper blade inserts, hmmm *** is that? can i just walk up to someones care and acquire these? I have tried so many things to remove these pins and nothing has worked yet but i havent tried wiper inserts...


----------



## PapaSmurf

I think he's referring to the spring steel strips that hold the exact fit rubber inserts into the blade.


----------



## Bigboi24

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
I think he's referring to the spring steel strips that hold the exact fit rubber inserts into the blade.

Bingo! Yeah, just go to an auto-parts store, and they usually have them in the trash cans(at least, that's where I found mine) or you could just replace your cars wiper blades lol.


----------



## Tribulex

oh well i think ill just steal them from someone else's car i imagine my car needs these on it.


----------



## PapaSmurf

If you haven't changed yours in the past year it's time to do so anyway. They don't last nearly as long as most people think they do.


----------



## oliverw92

Anyone got a link to those hi-res Corsair HX1000 sticker images?


----------



## Shane1244

oops


----------



## Shane1244

I found a edited one.









Aslo, Read here:
http://www.overclock.net/7483963-post71.html


----------



## Yogi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Anyone got a link to those hi-res Corsair HX1000 sticker images?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]'D*


the best sample I could take from that picture was this.......










I took about 12 samples but most of them were going into random shades of purple/very dark red so I went with the one I felt best matched.


For everyone else some more Corsair PSU sticker pics


----------



## brafish

I'm finished with my build. All of the sleeving is MDPC except for the 8-pin power extension cable which was pre-sleeved and was close enough. I used the tools from performance-pcs.com for all of the extractions. Here's a photo gallery from various points in the worklog.

Thank you to everyone in this and other threads on OCN for inspiration and instruction.


----------



## Dilyn

THAT is one hot momma.

Back was my favorite though :3


----------



## oliverw92

Alright thanks for the corsair stickers


----------



## oliverw92

Partway through sleeving an HX1000 for Deadmau5 on here:




























^^ Do not do that and turn it on


----------



## DeadMau5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Partway through sleeving an HX1000 for Deadmau5 on here:

^^ Do not do that and turn it on


















looking good


----------



## oliverw92

Glad you approve







Dropping you a PM now


----------



## Kaeth

*Brafish*: I notice you're using the MDPC Cable mounts there. Did you also purchase the screws from them? If so, did you have to thread the holes in the Mobo tray yourself? Or did you already know how they were threaded (UNC/UNF/Metric).

I want to do this in my ATCS 840 that's coming.


----------



## Dilyn

That is ALSO very nice









You guys will put my work to shame.


----------



## mars-bar-man

My D5, this was my second attempt at sleeving, first was a fan cable.


----------



## brafish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *joavery* 
*Brafish*: I notice you're using the MDPC Cable mounts there. Did you also purchase the screws from them? If so, did you have to thread the holes in the Mobo tray yourself? Or did you already know how they were threaded (UNC/UNF/Metric).

I want to do this in my ATCS 840 that's coming.

Yeah I bought the screws from them to match. They're standard 6-32 screws and I just bought a tap and drilled them out myself. There's not a lot of metal there for the thread but it's enough for the small screws as long as you're not putting a ton of pressure on them.


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *joavery* 
*Brafish*: I notice you're using the MDPC Cable mounts there. Did you also purchase the screws from them? If so, did you have to thread the holes in the Mobo tray yourself? Or did you already know how they were threaded (UNC/UNF/Metric).

I want to do this in my ATCS 840 that's coming.

I got mine from some local hardware shop. Each of the screws and pclips were like $.07/ea. You can just use unused holes in the mobo tray for the screws.


----------



## mastical

brafish said:


> I'm finished with my build. All of the sleeving is MDPC except for the 8-pin power extension cable which was pre-sleeved and was close enough. I used the tools from performance-pcs.com for all of the extractions. Here's a photo gallery from various points in the worklog.
> 
> Thank you to everyone in this and other threads on OCN for inspiration and instruction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May I ask what this is?


----------



## PapaSmurf

It's a caustic light projector. See his BlueShark Build Log for details.


----------



## brafish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
It's a caustic light projector. See his BlueShark Build Log for details.

Yeah it turned out pretty well. I've got a (cheesy) video of it up on youtube:


----------



## Yogi

Finally got around to starting on my extension.


----------



## b0klau

If anyone is ordering from mdpc-x anytime soon let me know. http://www.overclock.net/wanted/8027...ng-mdpc-x.html


----------



## kidwolf909

One PCIE down, one to go.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


Originally Posted by *b0klau* 
If anyone is ordering from mdpc-x anytime soon let me know. http://www.overclock.net/wanted/8027...ng-mdpc-x.html

Yeah me too! I still want those M3 brainwashers.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ragsters* 
Yeah me too! I still want those M3 brainwashers.

yea im interested in ordering from mdpc-x also

thought i would actually do an order of like 60bucks of sleeving or so


----------



## Dilyn

If you're still wanting them by ~3 weeks into September or on October 7, let me know









Should have enough money for my stuff by then... Assuming that my grandmother does not completely replace me with my aunts.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
If you're still wanting them by ~3 weeks into September or on October 7, let me know









Should have enough money for my stuff by then... Assuming that my grandmother does not completely replace me with my aunts.

yea i dont plan to buy anytime soon

i rather get some clothes instead


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
yea i dont plan to buy anytime soon

i rather get some clothes instead

My mommy buys my clothes.
But I don't really need new ones this year...
Maybe I can convince me mum to let me use my clothes budget


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
My mommy buys my clothes.
But I don't really need new ones this year...
Maybe I can convince me mum to let me use my clothes budget









uh i need new sexy suits for work


----------



## Dilyn

This is where being unemployed can be both awesome and horrible.


----------



## Trito

Hei I'm from Europe so I don't know lot of inches, how big sleevings I need for individually sleeved 24 pin connector?


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Trito* 
Hei I'm from Europe so I don't know lot of inches, how big sleevings I need for individually sleeved 24 pin connector?

If you are from Europe mdpc sells special sleeving made for individual cables. He's your cheapest solution too!!


----------



## Trito

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
If you are from Europe mdpc sells special sleeving made for individual cables. He's your cheapest solution too!!

I never knew that they are in EU, I'll email them to ask if they send sleevings to Latvia and how much it costs


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Trito* 
I never knew that they are in EU, I'll email them to ask if they send sleevings to Latvia and how much it costs

you can just find out by playing with the site


----------



## fshizl

for latvia?? make an account put your address and then add something to the cart, then proceed to paying and it will tell you the shipping to your location...


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Trito* 
I never knew that they are in EU, I'll email them to ask if they send sleevings to Latvia and how much it costs

You don't need to email them, they ship globally. Just do it through their website, MDPC-x.com


----------



## Trito

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
You don't need to email them, they ship globally. Just do it through their website, MDPC-x.com

Yea I figured it out, thanks


----------



## Shane1244

Just got a package from Furry!







125' CleanCut, 10' 1/4" 2:1 and 10' 3/16" 2:1.

I just started with sleeving a few fan wires, and my iPod headphones, I love this stuff, I'll be up all night sleeving everything in sight!

Pics!


----------



## mastical

How is Furrys heatshrink?


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mastical* 
How is Furrys heatshrink?

The 1/4" is a little loose, depending on what wire you are sleeving. The 3/16" fits VERY snugly over the sleeving, and then once you heat it up, it grips it super tight.

If I was to buy it again; I'd get all 3/16" heat shrink.


----------



## kidwolf909




----------



## oliverw92

Kidwolf, i have found that you can use normal 8pin atx plugs to replace those blue ones on the Corsair HX series if you want to.


----------



## Lost-boi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Kidwolf, i have found that you can use normal 8pin atx plugs to replace those blue ones on the Corsair HX series if you want to.

And if you only need 6 pins instead of 8 a normal 6 pin PCI-E will work instead of that horrible blue thing.


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Kidwolf, i have found that you can use normal 8pin atx plugs to replace those blue ones on the Corsair HX series if you want to.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lost-boi* 
And if you only need 6 pins instead of 8 a normal 6 pin PCI-E will work instead of that horrible blue thing.

Haha, don't worry guys. These plugs are for my Strider Plus, not a HX. And for the Strider Plus, I definitely need an 8-pin connector, even though they're only 6-pin cables. The 2 rows of 3 pins are offset in the 8-pin connector for some reason and i don't want to screw with that layout. Besides, this will be residing in the top of my Stacker and you'll be lucky if you ever see the blue anyway.

Thanks for the input tho!


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mastical* 
How is Furrys heatshrink?

It's only 2:1 just an FYI. I went with some other place online that also had chrome plated cable ties.


----------



## Tribulex

well i got some stuff sleeved, and the funny part is my adhesive lined heatshrink doesnt really glow under uv, but the adhesive does, so the tips of my wires glow now. its awesome. I still cant sleeve the atx cables though because i still cant get the pins out


----------



## DeadMau5

anyone know of any guides on sleeving SATA power cables?


----------



## oliverw92

I will have, Deadmau


----------



## Shane1244

I just got asked where to get FurryLetters 3/16" Heatshrink.

I asked him personally, you can contact him here: [email protected]


----------



## Tribulex

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DeadMau5* 
anyone know of any guides on sleeving SATA power cables?


here is a guide from me:

on the back of the connectors are caps. stick a flathead screwdriver and pop them off.

Then rip the wires out.

Sleeve leaving 1 mm on each side of the cuts in the wire.

Put the connectors back on. Jam the wires into the connectors with that flat head screwdriver

Snap the caps back on.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey guys, found myself over in Black and Short in Red MDPC. I have slightly more than 10 meters of Black.

So before I put up a sale page I was thinking that I would see if anyone in the States was going to be making an order and seeing if we can't work out a deal.

I won't have any shrink left thanks to my OCD also. So I'm considering a trade for 5 meters of Red and a meter of Black and the allowance of combining Black Sata Sleeve and Red Shrink you pay shipping for the full 10 meters that I pay shipping on to you.

To break it down.

10m Black=5 meters Red + possibly 1 meter black/I pay my own Sleeving cost for MDPC SATA+ Shrink

You pay the Bulk shipment cost From MDPC, I ship my cost to you and you ship my pack to me. Everybody is happy.

It would cost too much just for one 10 meter sleeve to sell it by itself if I don't trade it. And if I don't use it then it's essentially sitting around collecting dust. This stuff is way too beautiful for that. So if interested lemme know. I have PayPal with enough set aside to hold up my end.









I had just way too much black.








My MDPC order was 40m of Black and 10m of Red. Should have done 30m Black and 20m Red.









~Ceadder


----------



## dylanzzz

Wow theres some nice sleeving on here will help me alot when i do it


----------



## Ceadderman

Well since your Seasonic is basically the same as my Corsair I suggest that you use or buy an ATX tool and a small pointed seal puller.

I found that staples and safety pin tools weren't working. I separated two of my 8 pin connectors from their connections. One (+) and one (-). After that I was NOT going to mess with my 24 pin harness til I got an ATX tool.

Now what you do is you take the pointed tool and slide it on each side of the pin you wish to pull further crimping the pin in toward the seam. Then you slip first one pin of your tool along one of the edges tilt away from the pin to give the other pin clearance and then use the wire against the pin making it clear a wide enough gap to fit the other pin of the tool into the cleared area. Slide the pin as far as it will go into the connector while pushing the wire into it from the other direction to allow the pin tool further access. Then lay the 24 pin connection onto your work surface and pull the wire out. If it doesn't give then check your pin tool to make certain that it's on the outside of the pin. If so give the pin tool a slight up and down wiggle.

The problem with these Seasonics is there are NO ears to compress. The ears are actually pushed into the pin and instead there are molded ears in the connector itself. So it kind of looks like this...

}||{

...inside each pins connector. The point of the brackets being the retaining device instead of a flimsy ear setup.So you need to fit the tool in between them and the pin to get the pin out.

ALSO Word of warning: If you have dual connection pins, you will have to separate them to free up the leads enough to sleeve the entire length.

You only need to do this to 2 of the 3 double leads. If your 750 is set up like my 850 you will have 3 of them. Yellow, Red and Orange. So frankly you may need 3 new pins and the tool to crimp them onto the exposed leads. At least 2 if you find the right entangled power leads.I've still got pretty decent vision for an old guy so I've been separating the pins and then reusing them. But it would also help if you twisted the leads as much as you can without damaging the wire and soldering them together which is what I'm going to do. May even tack the pins on to make sure they don't slip the joints like happened to my Yellow pin.







lol

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tribulex*


well i got some stuff sleeved, and the funny part is my adhesive lined heatshrink doesnt really glow under uv, but the adhesive does, so the tips of my wires glow now. its awesome. I still cant sleeve the atx cables though because i still cant get the pins out


----------



## B-roca

Does Nils sell sleeving in less than 10 meter length?
Because all I really want to buy is like 3 meters to sleeve my Sennhesier 201's and I worked out that 10 meters with shipping to New Zealand was gonna be like $30 NZ which is ridiculous and I would still have to buy heatshrink so if I could just buy 3 meters and the shipper would be a little bit cheaper (because of the reduced size) I could afford to do it and not have this freaking mess of wires all over my desk.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope. Only sleeving that he does sell less than 10 is SATA sleeving and that's 5 meters.

I like his kit prices cause it comes with pretty much everything needed. _EXCEPT..._

...It only comes in Black with Black shrink.

So if you're like me and want alternating colors you have to spend more than you should have to. His kits are limited this way since he's limited on warehouse space. So if someone wants multiple colors I suggest buying the single sleeve kit and building your kit that way.

Unfortunately he doesn't sell less than 10m and doesn't separate his kits to include another color shrink or another color sleeving. But this stuff is freaking awesome to work with. I haven't had a single gaff with the sleeving. Shrink on the other hand is a different story since I'm OCD and it has to look just right. Or I'll cut it off and re-apply it. You don't even want to know how much I cut and re-applied just on my 8 pin connection.









Oh and ALSO, he's got a minimum price point on shopping cart. I think that it's 12-15 Euros. In the US that's about $20 give or take. I'm gonna offer a sleeving service to my local area and anyone who wishes and is willing to ship both ways on top of kit prices. I just have to finish the old Bizniz Card.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *B-roca*


Does Nils sell sleeving in less than 10 meter length?
Because all I really want to buy is like 3 meters to sleeve my Sennhesier 201's and I worked out that 10 meters with shipping to New Zealand was gonna be like $30 NZ which is ridiculous and I would still have to buy heatshrink so if I could just buy 3 meters and the shipper would be a little bit cheaper (because of the reduced size) I could afford to do it and not have this freaking mess of wires all over my desk.


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:



Originally Posted by *B-roca*


Does Nils sell sleeving in less than 10 meter length?
Because all I really want to buy is like 3 meters to sleeve my Sennhesier 201's and I worked out that 10 meters with shipping to New Zealand was gonna be like $30 NZ which is ridiculous and I would still have to buy heatshrink so if I could just buy 3 meters and the shipper would be a little bit cheaper (because of the reduced size) I could afford to do it and not have this freaking mess of wires all over my desk.


Try contacting Spiderm0nkey, she lives in NZ and has loooads of MDPC sleeving - if you sent her a few $$'s for the effort she might be able to send you a metre or two.


----------



## Ceadderman

Oooooh there ya go problem most likely solved.









~Ceadder


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Yeah send me a message if you do want some. I've got plenty of black sleeve lying around







It isn't MDPC but the quality is just as good. I've got a bit of the MDPC heatshrink too to go with it.


----------



## DeadMau5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tribulex*


here is a guide from me:

on the back of the connectors are caps. stick a flathead screwdriver and pop them off.

Then rip the wires out.

Sleeve leaving 1 mm on each side of the cuts in the wire.

Put the connectors back on. Jam the wires into the connectors with that flat head screwdriver

Snap the caps back on.


Thanks









Oli, is there much red left? or will there be much left?


----------



## B-roca

Oh and Thanks guys and pm sent to spidermoney


----------



## jrgull13

I think I'm getting the tool set too.. not the cheap Sunbeam one either, I was trying to bend staples and ended up shooting them all over my apartment... so I'm gonna go the the other way and maybe save myself an eyeball.


----------



## DeadMau5

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrgull13* 
I think I'm getting the tool set too.. not the cheap Sunbeam one either, I was trying to bend staples and ended up shooting them all over my apartment... so I'm gonna go the the other way and maybe save myself an eyeball.

Sunbean tool lasted for 5mins before i snapped it lol


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DeadMau5* 
Sunbean tool lasted for 5mins before i snapped it lol

Get the tool from FrozenCPU. It has lasted me through a 24-pin, 2 PCIE's, an 8-pin ATX, and countless fans!

It's not a perfect fit, but it works very well in conjunction with a staple.


----------



## brafish

I used two tools from performance-pcs. Both worked great and are still intact.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=2076 for the molex power

For ATX, fans and just about everything else: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=2964

I'm pretty careful with my tools, but I never felt like the ATX tool was fragile.


----------



## oliverw92

No Deadmau there will be barely any left. If i have any scraps i will include it.


----------



## Ceadderman

I got the $10 2-way ATX tool from Performance-PCs.com

They have it at Frozen as well.

The issue that many people do not understand is that you apply ZERO torque to the tool. If you apply pressure to the tool your risk of snapping one of the pins on it is guaranteed to help you fail.

What I use is two tools...

$10 2-way ATX tool...









And...

solder assist probe...









You can get a cheaper Archer solder assist kit at Radio Shack or pretty much any electronics supply store for a bout $10 depending on the store. Or use something similar if you have it to save money.

It saves a lot of hassle trying to get the tool to slip into place w/o putting torque on the pins.

I think that staples or handmade pin tools have their place, but difficult connectors require ATX tools like the one above.

I got mine at Performance because I'm a cheap bastage that saw that I could save a few







on the tool and spend less on shipping than at Frozen. Both are across the country from me. Also if someone is having a tough time finding a tool fairly close to the States they do ship Internationally.

Hope this information helps.









~Ceadder


----------



## PapaSmurf

Harbor Freight has a couple of solder tools like that for around $2 each.


----------



## Ceadderman

That's a good price unless that's the only item you're ordering. If you have HF in your location it's REALLY good though.

The Shack is getting spendy lately. The local store is going Cell items mostly now. They used to have have the store filled with supplies and the other half their company branded(Realistic) electronics.

Now I'm lucky to have just one 4 rack isle of supplies. I've been a loyal customer since I first went into a Shack with my Gramps.







_*sniff*_

That set I posted has a few more tools than the Archer set they carry in house though. Which is the set I use and it's probably nearly as much. Haven't looked for awhile though.









Anyway if one were to make the order from Harbor I would suggest making the shipping(if any) worthwhile.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
Harbor Freight has a couple of solder tools like that for around $2 each.


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
That's a good price unless that's the only item you're ordering. If you have HF in your location it's REALLY good though.

The Shack is getting spendy lately. The local store is going Cell items mostly now. They used to have have the store filled with supplies and the other half their company branded(Realistic) electronics.

Now I'm lucky to have just one 4 rack isle of supplies. I've been a loyal customer since I first went into a Shack with my Gramps.







_*sniff*_

That set I posted has a few more tools than the Archer set they carry in house though. Which is the set I use and it's probably nearly as much. Haven't looked for awhile though.









Anyway if one were to make the order from Harbor I would suggest making the shipping(if any) worthwhile.









~Ceadder










Man I remember 15 years ago walking into Radio Shack with my dad and 3/4 of the store was misc electronic components all over the place.. that same store now has 4 of those little stacker drawers of components now, it makes me want to cry.


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DeadMau5* 
Sunbean tool lasted for 5mins before i snapped it lol











I was looking at those.. like 15.xx USD on Amazon, though I'm not sure that would do the whole deal


----------



## fshizl

I just use my mdpcx tool lol. It hasn't failed me yet.


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
I just use my mdpcx tool lol. It hasn't failed me yet.

Good to hear. That's the one I'm getting


----------



## Ceadderman

I would have used that MDPC tool but it's not cheap even in US funds. It's the Molex brand tool which I googled and it was just as expensive as if I got it from Nils. Save for the overseas shipping of course.

If it's better than the one I eventually broke down and purchased, I suggest if your heart is set on the brand name tool, then get it with your kits. Cause by itself it's not worth nearly $40 US. Though I think that I will be buying the 4 pin Mole tool when I get my SATA kit since it's such a simplistic design. Once I saw what Nils did to put it together I was like







I could do that, but then try finding brass tubing in the correct size for both for less than $5. Brass ain't cheap.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dilyn

Ya I'm gonna be buying it with the rest of my stuff once I place the order.


----------



## Ceadderman

What's your color scheme?









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
Ya I'm gonna be buying it with the rest of my stuff once I place the order.


----------



## Dilyn

It took four minutes to load this page on my iPod









my color scheme will be red/black/white. The case will be all black (Haf X), with the red of my ATi card and some red fans. Possibly red LEDs if need be. The white will be my sleeving though


----------



## godofdeath

i got both my pin extraction tools off ebay total came up to what like $20 bucks, but can't find them anymore on ebay lol

anyone ordering off mdpc-x anytime soon?


----------



## Ceadderman

Didn't I post some sleeving pics a bit ago?









Hmmmm post must not have agreed with tha Mods.









Okay then here we go again.

2n1 tool and Flux Probe Tools...









8pin...
















20/4pin & dual yellow that slipped the pin & 1inch heatshrink for PSU end...
















All but the .5" and 1" shrink are MDPC sleeving. This stuff looks awesome even at this stage.









~Ceadder


----------



## fshizl

Believe me. It was worth it. I was using one of those cheaper ones from eBay and it broke quickly. I had to keep bending the pins on the tool to make them fit over the metal crimp. Lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Mine have never been bent. But that's why I use the probe to crimp each half of the pin so it allows me to slide the tool in. The width of the pins on these tools are not optimal to the pin in the connector. But knowing this helped me circumvent any issues that could possibly arise.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
Believe me. It was worth it. I was using one of those cheaper ones from eBay and it broke quickly. I had to keep bending the pins on the tool to make them fit over the metal crimp. Lol

So are you using the MDPCx tool for ALL your cables?


----------



## fshizl

Yes all the cables. Lol I have the molex tool and the atx pin tool.

And the crimping tool too.


----------



## Lost-boi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DeadMau5* 
Sunbean tool lasted for 5mins before i snapped it lol

Haha maybe im lucky with mine but its lasted me through 3 full PSUs so far and its barely showing any wear. Just a little powdercoat gone now.


----------



## oliverw92

The tools only break if you use them wrong


----------



## DeadMau5

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
The tools only break if you use them wrong









Mine was faulty


----------



## oliverw92

Lol







I'm going to work on your PSU this weekend, should only need one more day of working. The new connectors arrived


----------



## DeadMau5

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Lol







I'm going to work on your PSU this weekend, should only need one more day of working. The new connectors arrived










sweet









i just got the cable clips in







and some more blac sleeving.


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Mine have never been bent. But that's why I use the probe to crimp each half of the pin so it *allows me to slide the tool in*. The width of the pins on these tools are not optimal to the pin in the connector. But knowing this helped me circumvent any issues that could possibly arise.









~Ceadder









That sounds naughty.

Does anyone have any experience with those removal tools I posted a picture of a couple pages back? Was just curious if they were worth the money.


----------



## DJLiquid

those ones look like they would be good for 4 pin molex - not so much for the atx/pcie plugs


----------



## jrgull13

i'm kinda diggin this set

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=28750

and for 25 USD doesn't seem too bad (+10 USD shipping.. screw ppcs







)

Wish I had the mini-lathe I used in Red Wing for instrument repair, I could make one of these removal tools easily


----------



## Ceadderman

I was gonna get that kit but it was out of stock at the time I needed to place the order so I went with the 2n1 ATX tool.

But when I start sleeving for people I'm going to get that kit. The reason it's $10 shipping though is that it comes in it's own tin and they can't just package it in a small padded envelope like they did my last order.

Which was tool, TIM and shrink for < $4 shipping USPS. Don't be down on ppcs. Be down on Lamptron for their packaging. Oh and also Stainless Steel ain't light.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrgull13* 
i'm kinda diggin this set



and for 25 USD doesn't seem too bad (+10 USD shipping.. screw ppcs







)

Wish I had the mini-lathe I used in Red Wing for instrument repair, I could make one of these removal tools easily


----------



## Ragsters

I have asked this before and I am not ashamed to ask again. Please for anyone who is buying from MDPC-X can you get me some M3 Brainwashers? I only need like 10.


----------



## jrgull13

I was gonna order two 40mm fans from them and they were gonna charge me 10 bucks shipping 

I'm not doggin on PPCs, I'm actually looking at buying the AC Ryan removal tools, cheapest place I can find them right now. I know for sure I'll be doing at least 4 psus in the next year (i hope) so i think it'd be worth it for me to go ahead and grab some sort of tool for it. I'll have to throw my pics up of my first 3 sleeved fans... was a little rough at first, but I think I got the hang of it now.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrgull13* 
I was gonna order two 40mm fans from them and they were gonna charge me 10 bucks shipping 

That's funny. When I look up two 40mm fans shipping is only $4.24


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Do you guys think this is enough sleeve for my whole system?
20meters grande blue small sleeve
40meters black small sleeve
10meters grandeblue sata sleeve
6meters black heatshrink
1meter sata heatshrink.

Continuing my black/blue theme. Or do you think I should get 30meters blue and 50meters black? Also getting end and through sata connectors


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Do you guys think this is enough sleeve for my whole system?
20meters grande blue small sleeve
40meters black small sleeve
10meters grandeblue sata sleeve
6meters black heatshrink
1meter sata heatshrink.

Continuing my black/blue theme. Or do you think I should get 30meters blue and 50meters black? Also getting end and through sata connectors

i think you're a llittle short on the heatshrink
cant really think right now as im half drunk
i think you got a lil too much sleeving there


----------



## Ceadderman

What sleeving are you buying? Where are you nationally also.

I ask the last part cause I have 10m of black MDPC that I would like to work a deal for.

Okay now to your question of amount.

I made my purchase and should have gotten 2 lengths of Red out of the 50m I purchased.

So my order should have been 30m Black and 20m Red.
Also I did not get enough shrink. I got 1 meter of Red and 1 meter of Black. But to do this right you should use 3 inches of shrink per sleeve. One half inch at each end to keep the sleeve from walking and one inch to lock it in on both ends.

So figure out how many leads you're going to sleeve, and add 1m for booboos' for basic black.

If my Algebraic formula is correct it should be this... [1L(3)]=S+1m









Are you in the States and are ordering from MDPC?









Hope you haven't ordered yet.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Do you guys think this is enough sleeve for my whole system?
20meters grande blue small sleeve
40meters black small sleeve
10meters grandeblue sata sleeve
6meters black heatshrink
1meter sata heatshrink.

Continuing my black/blue theme. Or do you think I should get 30meters blue and 50meters black? Also getting end and through sata connectors


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I am in the US and I havent ordered yet.

I was thinking of having a ratio of sleeve of maybe like 3black:1blue. or 3:2

Im sleeving my whole system so I know I'd need a bit.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
What sleeving are you buying? Where are you nationally also.

I ask the last part cause I have 10m of black MDPC that I would like to work a deal for.

Okay now to your question of amount.

I made my purchase and should have gotten 2 lengths of Red out of the 50m I purchased.

So my order should have been 30m Black and 20m Red.
Also I did not get enough shrink. I got 1 meter of Red and 1 meter of Black. But to do this right you should use 3 inches of shrink per sleeve. One half inch at each end to keep the sleeve from walking and one inch to lock it in on both ends.

So figure out how many leads you're going to sleeve, and add 1m for booboos' for basic black.

If my Algebraic formula is correct it should be this... [1L(3)]=S+1m









Are you in the States and are ordering from MDPC?









Hope you haven't ordered yet.









~Ceadder










Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
I am in the US and I havent ordered yet.

I was thinking of having a ratio of sleeve of maybe like 3black:1blue. or 3:2

Im sleeving my whole system so I know I'd need a bit.

Can one of you guys order me some brainwashers and I will pay you for them via paypal? There is a minimum purchase price and the washers alone don't cut it.


----------



## sequencius

Hey OP arent you ever gonna add this to the thread: http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...ing-guide.html


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sequencius* 
Hey OP arent you ever gonna add this to the thread: http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...ing-guide.html

If he included the many details required to do a "perfect" sleeving job (heatshrinking is a HUGE part of it) I would. However, if someone were to follow it it'd most likely come out sub-par.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
If he included the many details required to do a "perfect" sleeving job (heatshrinking is a HUGE part of it) I would. However, if someone were to follow it it'd most likely come out sub-par.

Agreed. I don't feel it's really a guide as such either. Mostly just showing what the product is as opposed to how to use it and get the best possible result.


----------



## sequencius

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
If he included the many details required to do a "perfect" sleeving job (heatshrinking is a HUGE part of it) I would. However, if someone were to follow it it'd most likely come out sub-par.

that's true but I thought maybe the material itself could just be listed as an alternative sleeving option...


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sequencius* 
that's true but I thought maybe the material itself could just be listed as an alternative sleeving option...

Paracord? Personally I feel like if you're going to sleeve your cables, you might as well do it right. And I don't think parachute cord will give you the final product that you'd like. Some may be happy with it, and I guess on that premise it should be. I haven't updated the OP in awhile, when I get some time I'll try to add some stuff and simplify others. I'm pretty busy for awhile though, so if anyone would like to write up a draft for the OP, I'd be willing to entertain some cash offerings for your trouble


----------



## oliverw92

I have a sleeving guide in the works right now that talks about heatshrink in great detail. It also shows sleeving modular and non-modular cables.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
I have a sleeving guide in the works right now that talks about heatshrink in great detail. It also shows sleeving modular and non-modular cables.

Looking forward to that







Too cool Ollie, too cool


----------



## oliverw92

It won' beat Janik's though


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
It won' beat Janik's though









His was pretty amazing... It'd be tough to beat for sure. Yours will be good too though!


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r




----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r* 

















The heatshrink looks like marshmallows


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Martin, the green and grey sleeved cable is the most beautiful sleeving job I've ever seen...


----------



## b0klau

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*









Martin, the green and grey sleeved cable is the most beautiful sleeving job I've ever seen...


Noooo the white and grey one is...


----------



## Ceadderman

Hell with that, the power of Red and Black is undeniable.
































I love that shrink work. Though mine isn't bad, I would rather have gotten it this short with the sleeves being flush to the connectors. Soon as I get mine finished, I'ma start practicing on the 8 pin extension I have.









~Ceadder


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *b0klau*


Noooo the white and grey one is...










I'm 99.9% certain that the white and grey is the green and grey with the image processed as a grey scale black and white image instead of a color image.


----------



## oliverw92

I'm 99.9% sure it isn't


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


I'm 99.9% certain that the white and grey is the green and grey with the image processed as a grey scale black and white image instead of a color image.


I don't think it is because the heatshrink is a different shade. It's certainly a gray scale image, but not of the grey and green sleeve job.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Shoot. I missed the heatshrink part. I wonder what the actual colors are though?

But it is a nice photo though. Ansel Adams would be proud.


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

Thanks all!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


I'm 99.9% certain that the white and grey is the green and grey with the image processed as a grey scale black and white image instead of a color image.


I'm 100% sure it is not.


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

Actual colors are gray and white...


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Shoot. I missed the heatshrink part. I wonder what the actual colors are though?

But it is a nice photo though. Ansel Adams would be proud.










Most of the time I am the most un-observant person in the world, so I'm surprised I picked up on that!


----------



## Tribulex

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
I'm 99.9% certain that the white and grey is the green and grey with the image processed as a grey scale black and white image instead of a color image.

lol how could you be so certain about something so arbitrary with no evidence whatsoever?


----------



## Ackmanc

Here is my first REAL stab at sleeving. Getting the heat shrink to be level I noticed must be a skill / art form, even if you do pre cut and measure everything.


----------



## Enigma8750

I want to do one wire at a time. What size Shrink and Sleeving do I need.


----------



## Enigma8750

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ackmanc*





ICY.... Burr.. Nice Build.. It looks subzero in there with those colors.


----------



## Dilyn

Looks nice. Is that grey or white?
I hope it isn't white... The pictures there look totally different than what I was thinking.


----------



## sequencius

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Enigma8750*


I want to do one wire at a time. What size Shrink and Sleeving do I need.


this


----------



## mastical

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Enigma8750* 
I want to do one wire at a time. What size Shrink and Sleeving do I need.


1/8 sleeve and size "small" from MDPC. You can get 1/8 sleeve from Furryletters on ebay too, great guy/gal there.

Ive used 3/16 heatshrink on 1/8 sleeve before too. 1/8 heatshrink will be a tight fit.

Youll need about 125'-150' of sleeve for the HX1000. Thats counting you sleeve fans and most other wires in your case.


----------



## oliverw92

Almost got all the pics for my sleeving guide now







Just got to get pics for SATA sleeving. Here are the pics of the PSU i used for the sleeving:










I always test the PSU afterwards with a multimeter to check i got everything in correctly










My most perfect connector on that PSU







If you follow my method (coming soon







) you should be able to achieve this with a bit of practice.


----------



## fshizl

nice job oli! looks good


----------



## Dilyn

I wish to see this guide asap


----------



## DeadMau5

ive just had a thought lol

my case requires a 8pin atx extension







unless i buy the 600t


----------



## Ceadderman

Get a Corsair PSU, then you won't need an extension.

I have my HX850 mounted fan side down inthe bottom of my 932 and still have plenty of length to make the connections.

So if you get a HX750 or better you'll be fine.









Sleeving it requires 60 meters of 8th inch and ~6 meters of shrink, if you're sleeving fans as well.









Wait... no you shouldn't need an extension if you have the HX1000...









No way the 800D is bigger than 932.









So I don't see you needing a 24pin extension for anything other than not sleeving your PSU.

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *DeadMau5* 









ive just had a thought lol

my case requires a 8pin atx extension







unless i buy the 600t


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Get a Corsair PSU, then you won't need an extension.

I have my HX850 mounted fan side down inthe bottom of my 932 and still have plenty of length to make the connections.

So if you get a HX750 or better you'll be fine.









Sleeving it requires 60 meters of 8th inch and ~6 meters of shrink, if you're sleeving fans as well.









Wait... no you shouldn't need an extension if you have the HX1000...









No way the 800D is bigger than 932.









So I don't see you needing a 24pin extension for anything other than not sleeving your PSU.

~Ceadder









It's a bit late to get a new one, I just sleeved his HX1000 in MDPC red and black lol.

Get the 600T, Deadmau!


----------



## Ceadderman

Ahhh okay I know what's going on right now. I wouldn't even go with the 600 T unless you're looking to minimize the footprint of your Cabinet.









Even still if you did, I doubt you'd need a 8pin extension. Even if it's "bigger" inside than the exterior lets on. I mean you got 2 feet of length in the 8pin. You better be able to sleep inside that thing comfortably to need a 8pin.







lol

*Edited due to myopathic episode*









~Ceadder


----------



## b0klau

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DeadMau5* 









ive just had a thought lol

my case requires a 8pin atx extension







unless i buy the 600t

Doesn't the 800D come with an 8pin extension? The one I worked with had one.


----------



## oliverw92

Yeah it might do, but that extension isn't sleeved in MDPC black and red


----------



## jrgull13

Just thought i'd pipe in for a sec.

I was not happy with the stuff I bought from furryletters. If you do more than one wire (Like a fan) you can see right through the stuff. (this is the colored stuff, not the black clean cut) Next round I think I might try the parachute cord idea that was linked a few pages back.

Other than that I don't think sleeving is too bad, but I haven't started in on my PSU yet, just did some fans.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well I have MDPC, and you will see even through that. The thing to do is to take some electrical tape and lay the wiring in a single strip of that or take some spray paint and spray the wiring black.

It's not as noticable with MDPC when you're using a dark color i.e. Black Purple or Charcoal(dark Grey). But when you use Red, Green or any other light color you will notice it if you don't take steps to ensure a cleaner look.

I noticed it with Red especially. So I used black shrink on my 140 fan which is the Red sleeving. And electrical tape on my +/- I/O cables in the black sleeving since white REALLY stands out. You can't even tell what colors run the sleeving unless you look at the I/O panel connection on my Board.

You just have to use a bit of imagination to deal with these small issues.

MDPC is the best but even the stuff furry sells can be dealt with in the same manner to get good results.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrgull13* 
Just thought i'd pipe in for a sec.

I was not happy with the stuff I bought from furryletters. If you do more than one wire (Like a fan) you can see right through the stuff. (this is the colored stuff, not the black clean cut) Next round I think I might try the parachute cord idea that was linked a few pages back.

Other than that I don't think sleeving is too bad, but I haven't started in on my PSU yet, just did some fans.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrgull13* 
Just thought i'd pipe in for a sec.

I was not happy with the stuff I bought from furryletters. If you do more than one wire (Like a fan) you can see right through the stuff. (this is the colored stuff, not the black clean cut) Next round I think I might try the parachute cord idea that was linked a few pages back.

Other than that I don't think sleeving is too bad, but I haven't started in on my PSU yet, just did some fans.

Bear in mind that the coloured stuff from furryletters is not triple braided (as far as I am aware) so you will most certainly see through it.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrgull13* 
Just thought i'd pipe in for a sec.

I was not happy with the stuff I bought from furryletters. If you do more than one wire (Like a fan) you can see right through the stuff. (this is the colored stuff, not the black clean cut) Next round I think I might try the parachute cord idea that was linked a few pages back.

Other than that I don't think sleeving is too bad, but I haven't started in on my PSU yet, just did some fans.

I thought I mentioned in detail in the OP that if you want colored sleeve, do NOT go with furryletters. CleanCut only. Otherwise MDPC is your best bet.


----------



## oliverw92

You only see through MDPC sleeving if you don't get the 'stretch' right. Even MDPC sleeving looks crap unless it is stretched out so the filaments close up. The only case where this doesn't apply is white sleeving.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup, that too.









But Nils does suggest to line the cables to make them a single color JiC.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
You only see through MDPC sleeving if you don't get the 'stretch' right. Even MDPC sleeving looks crap unless it is stretched out so the filaments close up. The only case where this doesn't apply is white sleeving.


----------



## Dilyn

Great news guys!
Getting paid $80 on Friday for some mystery shopping work for my grandma, which means that I am $28 short of having enough money for my sleeving









So if I can get paid next week as well, I should be ordering my stuff before October gets here!


----------



## Frankie007

Look at what came in the mail today. First time sleeving so I'm going to start with a couple cables see how they turn out and eventualy going to do my PSU and all cables in my system.


----------



## mastical

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Frankie007* 
Look at what came in the mail today. First time sleeving so I'm going to start with a couple cables see how they turn out and eventualy going to do my PSU and all cables in my system.

Is that cloth sleeve?


----------



## Frankie007

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mastical* 
Is that cloth sleeve?

No it's paracord. I found a thread on here somewhere of a few people using it. The weave looks good and tight and it was fairly cheap so we'll see how it works out.


----------



## runeazn

is 100ft sleeving enough for my PSU?


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *runeazn* 
is 100ft sleeving enough for my PSU?

get 120-140 its always better to have extra then to run out when you need it...


----------



## runeazn

okay since i want to buy furryletts 100ft for 19$







cheap  but i think ill buy 200feet since really my psu has laods of cables..


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks kind of like Paracord, not bad though....well got that right even though it was 7 hours late.







lol

@Dilyn... Are you going to be ordering MDPC? PM me about it, maybe I can get the rest of my order with you if you are?









@fshizl... Hey bro, won't be able to ship until Friday. I looked into getting the tool and some pins and it would cost more than to ship the PSU.









~Ceadder


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *runeazn* 
okay since i want to buy furryletts 100ft for 19$







cheap  but i think ill buy 200feet since really my psu has laods of cables..

eMail FurryLetters at [email protected] and he'll give it to you at $.18/foot


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Looks kind of like Paracord, not bad though.









@Dilyn... Are you going to be ordering MDPC? PM me about it, maybe I can get the rest of my order with you if you are?









~Ceadder









If all goes according to plan










Next week or sometime the third week of September mate. I'll let you know!


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay kewl. I should have my 500w OCZ sold by then.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
If all goes according to plan









Next week or sometime the third week of September mate. I'll let you know!


----------



## chatch15117

Sorry I'm a noob at sleeving... I bet this question has been asked 100 times before but: How much would it be to get my PSU sleeved like this?


----------



## Ceadderman

You should PM fshizl, he may have more than the average into it. I know that he's got cable manager doodads in that you aren't seeing.









In my case I'ma be into mine about $80 +/-.









~Ceadder


----------



## Shane1244

Sleeve it yourself? ~$40 for Black, Upwards of $80 for color.
Get someone to sleeve it for you? I'd imagine they'd at least charge $15/hour, and it might take ~6 hours to complete, depending on number of wires, colours and the experience of the sleever.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chatch15117* 
Sorry I'm a noob at sleeving... I bet this question has been asked 100 times before but: How much would it be to get my PSU sleeved like this?










sickness, my pictures getting posted... lol

like ceader said, shoulda just pmed me straight... lol

sleeving, tools, clips, everything pretty much...

lol.... here is the exact...
first order from mdpc
4 Sleeve SMALL - GREY
SL-S-GY 6,68 Euro 26,72 Euro
1 Sleeve SATA - ORANGE
SL-SA-OR 5,00 Euro 5,00 Euro
2 Heatshrink SATA - BLACK
HS-SA-BK 2,27 Euro 4,54 Euro
4 Heatshrink SMALL - BLACK
HS-S-BK 2,27 Euro 9,08 Euro
SubTotal : 45,34 Euro

Shipping and Handling Fee : 17,50 Euro

Total: 62,84 Euro

2nd order...
3 Sleeve SMALL - AQUAMARINE-BLUE
SL-S-AQ 6,68 Euro 20,04 Euro
SubTotal : 20,04 Euro

Shipping and Handling Fee : 11,50 Euro

Total: 31,54 Euro

3rd order...
1 Rivet Dome Head - BLACK
RI-ST-BK 6,09 Euro 6,09 Euro
2 3-Pin MOLEX BLACK - Housing
HO-3PF-BK 1,76 Euro 3,52 Euro
2 Cable-Management-Clip MEDIUM - BLACK
PC-M-BK 1,93 Euro 3,86 Euro
1 MDPC Crimping-Tool
CR-TOOL-X 29,95 Euro 29,95 Euro
3 Heatshrink SMALL - BLACK
HS-S-BK 2,27 Euro 6,81 Euro
2 Sleeve SMALL - BLACK
SL-S-BK 6,68 Euro 13,36 Euro
SubTotal : 63,59 Euro

Shipping and Handling Fee : 29,50 Euro

Total: 93,09 Euro

4th order
1 Tubing-Sleeve-Pack
SL-TSP-BK 9,16 Euro 9,16 Euro
1 Pin-Remover by MOLEX - The Original
PR-MOLEX 20,34 Euro 20,34 Euro
SubTotal : 29,50 Euro

Shipping and Handling Fee : 11,50 Euro

Total: 41,00 Euro

5th order

1 UNC 6-32 Screws Black-Oxide Button-Head
SC-U6-BH 5,25 Euro 5,25 Euro
1 M3 x 6 mm Screws Black-Oxide Button-Head
SC-M36-BH 5,25 Euro 5,25 Euro
2 Sleeve SMALL - BLACK
SL-S-BK 6,68 Euro 13,36 Euro
1 3-Pin MOLEX BLACK - Housing
HO-3PF-BK 1,76 Euro 1,76 Euro
2 Crimp contacts FEMALE for ATX, PCIE, EPS
CR-ATX-F 2,93 Euro 5,86 Euro
1 Cable-Management-Clip SMALL - BLACK
PC-S-BK 1,89 Euro 1,89 Euro
1 Cable-Management-Clip BIG - BLACK
PC-B-BK 2,31 Euro 2,31 Euro
1 Cable-Management-Clip JUMBO - BLACK
PC-J-BK 2,50 Euro 2,50 Euro
SubTotal : 38,18 Euro

Shipping and Handling Fee : 11,50 Euro

Total: 49,68 Euro

Yes, guys i love MDPC lol... 278 Euro's which is roughly... 360 dollars... and thats just materials... my work, i am charging now 50 dollars to sleeve a power supply, so about 450 if you include work and everything... not to mention the side work you guys dont know, but i custom cut lengths to the cables on the power supply, modified it taking the 2nd 8 pin off, and making the 1 8pin cable longer... then sleeving everything.

came out nice though...


----------



## Ceadderman

that's just nuts fshzl.

Still...









~Ceadder


----------



## Dilyn

That is EXCELLENT work









Very nice job mate.


----------



## Gunfire

Everytime I see your name I think Carlos:


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r




----------



## D0U8L3M

dude those are some sexy sleeves +rep


----------



## kidwolf909

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r* 













































PERRRRFECT!

I wish I had your technique to make all the HS so short and perfect length across all cables. I did a decent job on mine, but yours are stunning!

Rep!


----------



## fshizl

lol, crysis comes in and just puts me to shame! hahaha...


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

Thanks doublem and kidwolf









fshizl: Nah, your stuff looks great! Big fan


----------



## Dilyn

Gotta go change my pants...


----------



## MijnWraak

Haha I was viewing this thread and was scrolling through Crys1s's pics with my brother next to me and he said it was "computer porn"









it's true.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I couldn't agree more. Martin, you truly are the best sleever I've ever come across. Hope my sleeving can be as perfect as yours some day


----------



## sequencius

What's wrong with the sleeving from PerformancePCS?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ex&cPath=44_32


----------



## Tator Tot

Depends on what kind you get.


----------



## Chicken Patty

The sleeving from PPCS was great for a first timer like me. It's cheap so who cares if you waste lots of it trying to get it right.


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

lol thanks guys (and Krissy!)


----------



## Shane1244

You are by far the best cable sleever on OCN!







That's so sexy! How'd you get the heatshrink so straight!?

In other news, I ordered a ATX remover tool, Staples are way to big of a pain in the ass. Soon as I get it, I'll have pictures of mine.

EDIT: I'd love to see pictures with a wider aperture/less DOF.


----------



## Ceadderman

Pretty sure he cuts it to a specific lenght and takes it to just behind the knuckle of the pin before shrinking it on. I get mine lined up pretty well too. Other than cutting mine to an inch to keep it consistent with my I/O cables.

What I like is how he got his sleeves consistently flat to the connector before being locked in. THAT is what is impressive to me. Not the shrink(although extremely consistent), but how he got his sleeve cut and melted without flaring. I use surgical scissors but still can't get that accurate of a cut.









~Ceadder


----------



## Chicken Patty

@ Crysis gamer is in my opinion the best cable sleever ever.


----------



## Dilyn

I want to know this man's secrets!


----------



## b0klau

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dilyn*


I want to know this man's secrets!


Yeah, me too. I tired PMing him a long time ago asking how he does it, no answer


----------



## DeadMau5

He's verry good but Zien is also good i think both of their sleeving is on par with each other.

Oliver is pretty good too


----------



## oliverw92

Mine is no-where near as good as Martins









I know a few 'secrets' and tricks that pro sleevers use, doesn't mean you can get it to look like that though







Practice is the key


----------



## DeadMau5

ive had to sleeve an 8pin extension in black







got it looking sweet though


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
I thought I mentioned in detail in the OP that if you want colored sleeve, do NOT go with furryletters. CleanCut only. Otherwise MDPC is your best bet.

You probably did, but I'm on a really low budget (I mean I couldn't even upgrade my system, just a few parts at a time.. still running a 939 that's 6 years old) It's also my first time attempting to do any sleeving and it looks fine from a ways away, I just can't get too close or I start to cringe, hehe. I think I'm going to try the paracord idea the next time around, they sell that stuff everywhere so I won't have to pay for shipping.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrgull13* 
You probably did, but I'm on a really low budget (I mean I couldn't even upgrade my system, just a few parts at a time.. still running a 939 that's 6 years old) It's also my first time attempting to do any sleeving and it looks fine from a ways away, I just can't get too close or I start to cringe, hehe. I think I'm going to try the paracord idea the next time around, they sell that stuff everywhere so I won't have to pay for shipping.

Hey man nothing wrong with 939







I'd still be using my 939 setup now if I hadn't accidentally killed the board and RAM


----------



## PapaSmurf

939 is still a viable system as long as it gets the job done. My youngest daughter and my ex-wife are running 3800 X2's on Biostar TForce6100 boards and they do everything they need them to do. The only thing we've done to them in the years they've had them is to add bigger hard drives as the need has arisen.


----------



## jrgull13

i'm not bashin my system







It can run SC2 on high settings just fine. Wish it could do ultra, but that's pushing it and the cpu gets really hot.


----------



## DeadMau5




----------



## Chicken Patty

That's gorgeous Deadmau5


----------



## oliverw92

Ehem, don't forgot to mention that I did that sleeving


----------



## Coldnapalm

So does this have any effect on performance or is this cosmetic?


----------



## oliverw92

It stops your cables from getting too hot


----------



## MijnWraak

It increases the power of l33t your rig has, therefore increasing female attraction.









(or male if you float that way)


----------



## Dilyn

It raises your e-peen by up to seven inches!


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
It raises your e-peen by up to seven inches!

I wonder why you chose seven.


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
I wonder why you chose seven.
















Because my birthday is on the seventh?
I dunno. Subliminal messages.

Maybe I just missed the joke.
WHO KNOWS!


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
Because my birthday is on the seventh?
I dunno. Subliminal messages.

Maybe I just missed the joke.
WHO KNOWS!

Too much QC clearly!

On-Topic .. uh .. I like sleeving.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Coldnapalm* 
So does this have any effect on performance or is this cosmetic?

Mostly cosmetic, but it can NEGATIVELY affect your airflow which will NEGATIVELY affect your cooling if you aren't very diligent with your cable management. This is because the total mass of the wiring has been increased to 3 to 4 times as much as it was originally.


----------



## galaxyy

Whew, I just spent 8 hour reading all 189 pages of this thread. I'm sold on MDPC-X and am putting together my order. I do have a couple of questions:

1) Does anyone have a picture of the red + dark blue MDPC sleeves next to each other?

2) Does anyone have a picture of dual sleeving? Specifically for pcie or the motherboard 24pin. My idea is to put the top and bottom wires in one sleeve so there is just one row of wires instead of two.

TIA!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *galaxyy* 
Whew, I just spent 8 hour reading all 189 pages of this thread. I'm sold on MDPC-X and am putting together my order. I do have a couple of questions:

1) Does anyone have a picture of the red + dark blue MDPC sleeves next to each other?

2) Does anyone have a picture of dual sleeving? Specifically for pcie or the motherboard 24pin. My idea is to put the top and bottom wires in one sleeve so there is just one row of wires instead of two.

TIA!

I can put some pictures up tomorrow of #2 for you. It didn't work out well for me, but then again I was sleeving two wires coming from one pin, as opposed to two wires coming from two pins. Either way, you'll be able to see a small amount of the wires underneath as the sleeve cannot be inserted inside the connector. I have some red sleeve on its way at the moment but no blue next to it. I do know of a large gallery full of different sleeving combinations however. I'll try and find the link to that for you.


----------



## galaxyy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
I can put some pictures up tomorrow of #2 for you. It didn't work out well for me, but then again I was sleeving two wires coming from one pin, as opposed to two wires coming from two pins. Either way, you'll be able to see a small amount of the wires underneath as the sleeve cannot be inserted inside the connector. I have some red sleeve on its way at the moment but no blue next to it. I do know of a large gallery full of different sleeving combinations however. I'll try and find the link to that for you.

Thanks! Fortunately I'm sleeving a corsair 1200AX, so all the wires are all black. Also to fully seal everything off I was thinking of heat-wrapping each end first, and then dual wrapping. Might look smooth that way?

...but first I need to compare with the single wiring to see if I like it







Just want to do something a little different than everyone else.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

http://www.abload.de/gallery.php?key=rWkUlrHb

That's the link to the gallery however I couldn't find a Royal Blue + Red combination sorry








Still a great collection of beautiful sleeving jobs so I posted it anyway


----------



## galaxyy

Thanks for the link, I'll check it out!

Also: do you (or anyone) have a link to a guide for shortening connections? Also a list of tools I would need would be most appreciated.


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *galaxyy* 
Thanks for the link, I'll check it out!

Also: do you (or anyone) have a link to a guide for shortening connections? Also a list of tools I would need would be most appreciated.

You mean like shortening the wires? easiest way is to chop them off and resolder them and just heat shrink or tape over the joint.

to do it the RIGHT way you'd have to go buy new pins and re-crimp everything


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrgull13* 
You mean like shortening the wires? easiest way is to chop them off and resolder them and just heat shrink or tape over the joint.

to do it the RIGHT way you'd have to go buy new pins and re-crimp everything

Indeed. The cheapest way is by far the way of soldering though.

Chop the wire, strip it back a bit on both sides. I usually tin both exposed wires and then melt them together. Once it's done, wrap it with tape (I use tape as opposed to heatshrink as tape is easier to remove should you ever need to get back to that soldered segment again) and then sleeve over it


----------



## galaxyy

Thanks for the responses. I don't have a soldering gun, neither do I have any crimping tools. So I think I'll do it "right" and get crimping stuff and buy my own wires.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *galaxyy*


Thanks for the responses. I don't have a soldering gun, neither do I have any crimping tools. So I think I'll do it "right" and get crimping stuff and buy my own wires.


Make some sort of worklog for us! Sounds very fun


----------



## B-roca

NOOO!!! Ok so I got Krissy to send me 3 meters of FurryLetters black to sleeve my Sennheiser 201 headphones and Zalman Clip on mic and it is wonderful sleeving but i had intended to slide it over the 3.5mm jack but its too small







and I dont know what i'm goign to so I really do not want to chop of the wires as I dont have a soldering iron (it broke and it was terrible anyway







) I got so mad with myself i even went outside and found a Mc Donald's straw on the side of the road to try and get the sleeving on but I cant do its I'm so m ad with myself


----------



## galaxyy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
Make some sort of worklog for us! Sounds very fun









I sure will. I have a 250$ order in from Nils...so I'll update when I get all my stuff. Question: I have the corsair ax1200 so all my wires are modular...the part the I plug into the power supply, that's jut the same connectors as the ends we plug into MB/hDs etc right? I can just use regular crimps?


----------



## oliverw92

You can use regular crimps, but the connectors are normally proprietary so that you can only plug the cables in one way round.


----------



## galaxyy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
You can use regular crimps, but the connectors are normally proprietary so that you can only plug the cables in one way round.

You're just talking about the plastic "plug" part right at the end right? (which are removable). I just want to make sure that other than those "end plugs" that I can replace everything else.

Also what gauge wire do I use for powering things? Are they all the same? I want to custom rewire everything and am having problems finding info on what wires to buy.


----------



## oliverw92

18AWG for things like PCI-E cables, 8pin EPS, 24pin ATX. 24AWG for things like fan cables. I take it you bought the MDPC crimps and crimp tool? Those two sizes are what Nils recommends.


----------



## galaxyy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
18AWG for things like PCI-E cables, 8pin EPS, 24pin ATX. 24AWG for things like fan cables. I take it you bought the MDPC crimps and crimp tool? Those two sizes are what Nils recommends.

He's out of those so I'm going to get from frozencpu. I didn't see a gauge recommendation, thanks for the sizes







Ordering and will post the build as I go once everything arrives.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
18AWG for things like PCI-E cables, 8pin EPS, 24pin ATX. 24AWG for things like fan cables. I take it you bought the MDPC crimps and crimp tool? Those two sizes are what Nils recommends.

You don't want to use 24AWG on SATA/Molex/Floppy lines.

Just to add on, but a PSU should be done in all 18AWG or lower, as that is per the ATX Specifications.


----------



## Lost-boi

I use 18 gauge on everything but fan cables. Fans get 22 gauge because I daisy chain them together. If you are doing single fans 24 is fine.


----------



## galaxyy

Sweet thanks for the tips. I'll use 18 everywhere but fans (where I think I'll just play it safe and use 22).

I'm getting a bit freaked out about modding my ax1200. I guess someone fried their whole setup because they modded it wrong. If I make sure that my connections are all correct, I have nothing to worry about right?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *galaxyy* 
Sweet thanks for the tips. I'll use 18 everywhere but fans (where I think I'll just play it safe and use 22).

I'm getting a bit freaked out about modding my ax1200. I guess someone fried their whole setup because they modded it wrong. If I make sure that my connections are all correct, I have nothing to worry about right?









Correct, the only way you'll have a problem is if you do something like sending the 5v line into a 12v hole.

But if you don't do something like that you'll be fine.

12v Plug into 12v Slot and all is good.


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Correct, the only way you'll have a problem is if you do something like sending the 5v line into a 12v hole.

But if you don't do something like that you'll be fine.

12v Plug into 12v Slot and all is good.

Sending 5v into a 12v hole won't kill anything (it probably just won't work), sending 12v into a 5v hole, however, WILL fry stuff.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Sending 5v into a 12v hole won't kill anything (it probably just won't work), sending 12v into a 5v hole, however, WILL fry stuff.

No it'll fry whatever part is trying to use the 5v line.

While on the flip side, putting a 12v line into the 5v line will do internal damage to the PSU itself.


----------



## galaxyy

Perfect, thank you. I'm just going to be absolutely anal about the main power supply. I even bought a multimeter to make sure that what I think is connected actually _is_.

One last question, I know what gauge of wire to buy, but when I go to online wiring stores they have soooo many options. Do I need to meet any other standards? Some example of options are conducting area, insulator width, max voltage....can I just grab any old 18 awg? For instance this wire?


----------



## Tator Tot

There are certain conditions the wires need to meet, I'll see if I can dig up all the info.

I get black wire normally and it's specs are:

UL 1007 Approved hook up wire.
CSA TR-64/1569 - OSHA Acceptable
PVC insulation - 300 volt Max.
Passes UL VW-1.S Vertical Flame Tests
16 strand wire


----------



## oliverw92

I would rather blow up my PSU than my motherboard


----------



## galaxyy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
There are certain conditions the wires need to meet, I'll see if I can dig up all the info.

I get black wire normally and it's specs are:

UL 1007 Approved hook up wire.
CSA TR-64/1569 - OSHA Acceptable
PVC insulation - 300 volt Max.
Passes UL VW-1.S Vertical Flame Tests
16 strand wire

Sweet! Thanks a lot (+rep). Do you have a vendor that you usually go through?


----------



## galaxyy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
I would rather blow up my PSU than my motherboard

my psu is worth more than my MB lol







But yes, that sentiment exactly.


----------



## Dilyn

n00b electrician incoming: What do different wire gauges do?

I bought my 18 gauge stuff at Radioshack


----------



## PapaSmurf

Heaver wire (smaller number) can transmit more power, but they can have too much resistance if you have a small amount of current running through them.

Lighter gauge wire (larger number) can't handle heavier loads. They will overheat, catch fire, burn out, etc. under extreme cases. But smaller loads will flow better through them since there is less resistance making them better suited to telephony, speakers, small case fans, etc.

The length of the runs also comes into play as the amount of current that flows decreases as the run gets longer.

This is why you want to use the heaviest gauge you can get balanced against the lightest gauge you can get away with.

There is a lot more to it than this, but that should give you a basic idea and starting point.


----------



## Dilyn

Thank you for that light explanation, sir









I'm required to take some electrical courses for my degree in college, so I'll probably get a more in depth explanation from that. But this is a nice little starting point.


----------



## SKI_VT

Hey guys how much do you think MDCP-X sleeving is worth per meter?
EX: $5 USD per meter.

So what do you think its worth per meter for someone reselling in the US?


----------



## oliverw92

Nils (owner of MDPC) doesn't do official reselling and if you did it unofficially you would never make a profit, possibly you would make a loss after shipping etc.


----------



## SKI_VT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Nils (owner of MDPC) doesn't do official reselling and if you did it unofficially you would never make a profit, possibly you would make a loss after shipping etc.


im just trying to get rid of some left overs i have and i'm Stumped as to how to price it








i have 38 meters of red and Black combined some im trying to figure out how to price it. Ofcourse it will be at a loss, im not trying to one-up Nils


----------



## oliverw92

Well look on the website - 10m of black small for 7.90 euros







So 0.79 euro per metre.


----------



## SKI_VT

Alright thanks


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *galaxyy*


Sweet! Thanks a lot (+rep). Do you have a vendor that you usually go through?


Perforamnce PC's or Frozen CPU sell the stuff I buy.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Hey oliver we ever gonna get a sleeving guide?


----------



## B-roca

Quote:



Originally Posted by *B-roca*


NOOO!!! Ok so I got Krissy to send me 3 meters of FurryLetters black to sleeve my Sennheiser 201 headphones and Zalman Clip on mic and it is wonderful sleeving but i had intended to slide it over the 3.5mm jack but its too small







and I dont know what i'm goign to so I really do not want to chop of the wires as I dont have a soldering iron (it broke and it was terrible anyway







) I got so mad with myself i even went outside and found a Mc Donald's straw on the side of the road to try and get the sleeving on but I cant do its I'm so m ad with myself










Anyone?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Bueller.. Bueller.. Bueller..


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *B-roca* 
Anyone?

To be honest I don't really know of any way of doing it that doesn't involve cutting and soldering. But don't do it if you're not confident with a soldering iron coz I'd hate for you to end up ruining your headphones







I have the HD 202's which are preeeetty close so I'll give it a shot tomorrow.


----------



## Lost-boi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Perforamnce PC's or Frozen CPU sell the stuff I buy.

I got my 18 gauge black from Frozen. Got 200 feet of it and I rewired my HX1000W and still have plenty left over.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lost-boi* 
I got my 18 gauge black from Frozen. Got 200 feet of it and I rewired my HX1000W and still have plenty left over.

how is the wire? is it soft and of good quality? ive been looking for some wire, but all i found was the frys stuff.. 25 feet for 5 dollars... kinda expensive and not worth it imo


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
how is the wire? is it soft and of good quality? ive been looking for some wire, but all i found was the frys stuff.. 25 feet for 5 dollars... kinda expensive and not worth it imo

The FrozenCPU & Performance PC Stuff is pretty good for the most part. I've not run into any defects with it. They just get the stuff bulk.

Go with who ever has it the cheapest.

Currently I"m trying to track down some good white-wire of the same kind. But I can't seem to find it in white


----------



## oliverw92

Go to proper electronics shops, not computer shops, should be able to get any colour you like. I got 100m of Black PVC 18AWG 2.5mm OD for Â£7.95.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Go to proper electronics shops, not computer shops, should be able to get any colour you like. I got 100m of Black PVC 18AWG 2.5mm OD for Â£7.95.

Local shops have beige/off-white.

Not white-white (like MDPC-X white.) I carry a 3" segment in my pocket to see how it looks. lol

I just need to hit up a few more places to see what they have.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Have you tried a GOOD auto parts store like NAPA or Car Quest? I know when I worked at NAPA we had white wire in spools and in bulk.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
Have you tried a GOOD auto parts store like NAPA or Car Quest? I know when I worked at NAPA we had white wire in spools and in bulk.

I don't know if I have a Car Quest is the area, but I'm going to check Napa on Friday.

I live right near a huge shopping area so I checked there first (as it's close) but I'm going to spread out and drive around on Friday to look.

Some places around here (Autozone) had white, but it was an off-white, and not a pearl-white.
Which the latter is what I'm looking for as it would match the sleeving without showing through.


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


You are by far the best cable sleever on OCN!







That's so sexy! How'd you get the heatshrink so straight!?

In other news, I ordered a ATX remover tool, Staples are way to big of a pain in the ass. Soon as I get it, I'll have pictures of mine.

EDIT: I'd love to see pictures with a wider aperture/less DOF.


Thanks Shane! Check out Janik's (Xien16's) and Ferhan's (fhantastic's) work to see perfection









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Pretty sure he cuts it to a specific lenght and takes it to just behind the knuckle of the pin before shrinking it on. I get mine lined up pretty well too. Other than cutting mine to an inch to keep it consistent with my I/O cables.

What I like is how he got his sleeves consistently flat to the connector before being locked in. THAT is what is impressive to me. Not the shrink(although extremely consistent), but how he got his sleeve cut and melted without flaring. I use surgical scissors but still can't get that accurate of a cut.









~Ceadder










I'd love to see some pics of yours









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


@ Crysis gamer is in my opinion the best cable sleever ever.










Thanks Chicken
















Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dilyn*


I want to know this man's secrets!


No secrets bro... I posted this on XS originally but here it is again:

I always love it when people ask me to reveal my "secret technique." I can't stress enough that, while technique is certainly important, practice and patience have so much more value (and your technique is derived from it). My advice to you is to constantly experiment, and above all _have fun doing it_. If you don't love your work, you will never be happy with it.

If you're happy with it, that's all that matters. It is your system, after all.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *b0klau*


Yeah, me too. I tired PMing him a long time ago asking how he does it, no answer










See above









Quote:



Originally Posted by *DeadMau5*


He's verry good but Zien is also good i think both of their sleeving is on par with each other.

Oliver is pretty good too










You mean Janik (Xien16)? He's a MASTER









Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Mine is no-where near as good as Martins









I know a few 'secrets' and tricks that pro sleevers use, doesn't mean you can get it to look like that though







Practice is the key


Thanks Oli









Right on the nail when you say that having good technique doesn't guarantee perfection.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Coldnapalm*


So does this have any effect on performance or is this cosmetic?


If you are motivated enough to sleeve, you should be doing some very nice cable management, so it will have no performance impact. Looks a million times better though!


----------



## Dilyn

When you're sleeving a cable (especially something like the 24 pin) do you just slip out one cable at a time from the connector and sleeve it, then move on to the next one, etc. Or do you pull them all out and sleeve them that way? I'm thinking the first method would be best, just because I have to paint all the cables white before hand so that they don't dull the white of the sleeve and if I paint them white, diagrams that I make that talk about the colors of the cable will be useless!


----------



## B-roca

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
To be honest I don't really know of any way of doing it that doesn't involve cutting and soldering. But don't do it if you're not confident with a soldering iron coz I'd hate for you to end up ruining your headphones







I have the HD 202's which are preeeetty close so I'll give it a shot tomorrow.

ok sweet I had an idea that maybe I could sand down the plastic on the connector at the end so that the sleeving will fit but atm i'm too lazy to try it.


----------



## oliverw92

Are you sure the sleeving won't stretch over the 3.5mm plug? I take it you have tried just pushing the sleeving over?


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm doing mine in Negative format.

Red Sleeve with Black shrink...










And Black Sleeve with Red Shrink.










I probably could have used less than 1 inch per end but I wanted to keep my Shrink consistent for every bit of sleeving. I may redo it later, but this is how it's gonna be for the time being. As expensive as shipping from Germany is.









As you can see I have a couple cables that need pins replaced but it was gonna be that way anyway. Had I known I was going to have this issue I would have had pins and the tool on hand to replace them.

I've decided to go with the tool and pins once I get my refund for my KB, since it's such a spendy item. I found it would cost me $30 to ship one way for my PSU to get 2 pins replaced. Tool and pins will cost me that much anyway so might as well bite the bullet and get the tool.









Once I have everything back together I'll be getting much better pics up.









@Oliver... I just tried to push some sleeve over the jack on my Skull Candy Ink'd earbuds. It would take some doing but I think it could be done using a pencil tip at the plug and long enough to allow the sleeving (if the sleeving is melted) over the big portion of shrink. I suggest that 1/4 inch shrink be used however to get it over the housing and sleeve for the one end and to hide the housing on the other end.

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r* 
I'd love to see some pics of yours


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Are you sure the sleeving won't stretch over the 3.5mm plug? I take it you have tried just pushing the sleeving over?

Yeah, I was able to sleeve my iPod headphones.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


Yeah, I was able to sleeve my iPod headphones.


The jack on earbuds is much smaller typically than that of headphones. I tried sleeving my HD 202's yesterday (B-Roca has the HD 201's) and the sleeve had to be expanded to its maximum and then forced over. Even after all the forcing I still didn't manage to get it any further than half way over the jack.

Even if you can force the sleeve over, there is very little chance you'll be able to get the heatshrink over, let alone have the patience to force a few meters of sleeve over that jack. I reckon sanding it back will be a good idea. Safer and easier than chopping and re-soldering the cable anyways


----------



## oliverw92

Have you tried MDPC sleeving, Krissy? I have got MDPC small sleeving over a 4pin fan connector with ease. Also got it over an 8pin USB header without too much difficulty. The trick is to not seal the ends before-hand. Just do it afterwards carefully with a lighter or candle.


----------



## Tator Tot

I think the real question is, have _you_ tried anything other than MDPC-X sleeving Olli?


----------



## companion_cube

I looooooooove this thread <3 Totally going to invest the time into sleeving.


----------



## oliverw92

Yeah, i've tried KustomPC stuff which was AWFUL, and i tried Rapidonline stuff which was very decent, except they didn't do anything small enough for single 18AWG cables.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Have you tried MDPC sleeving, Krissy? I have got MDPC small sleeving over a 4pin fan connector with ease. Also got it over an 8pin USB header without too much difficulty. The trick is to not seal the ends before-hand. Just do it afterwards carefully with a lighter or candle.


Yes I've just tried it with my green sleeve with no luck. I think the USB sleeve would be perfect for this. Had I known just before I placed my most recent order I would've got some of that too and then sent him that stuff instead


----------



## oliverw92

I put 5m of USB sleeve in my last order for 'those times'


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


I put 5m of USB sleeve in my last order for 'those times'










I wish I had your future seeing abilities lol... Then again, it wasn't that which stopped me, it was my empty pocket


----------



## B-roca

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Are you sure the sleeving won't stretch over the 3.5mm plug? I take it you have tried just pushing the sleeving over?

yes I tried that but its too small but it might work if i sand down the platic on the connectors will try later this weekend


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 









When you're sleeving a cable (especially something like the 24 pin) do you just slip out one cable at a time from the connector and sleeve it, then move on to the next one, etc. Or do you pull them all out and sleeve them that way? I'm thinking the first method would be best, just because I have to paint all the cables white before hand so that they don't dull the white of the sleeve and if I paint them white, diagrams that I make that talk about the colors of the cable will be useless!

I take them all out at once.

Diagrams pertaining to color would still be just asuseful. For example, you might write out "Pin 1: Orange" on the PSU end and "Pin 2: Orange" on the motherboard end. Then you could simply make sure the (now white) wire went from pin 1 on the PSU end to pin 2 on the motherboard end.


----------



## Ceadderman

Love the new Avvy Crys1s. At first it looked like a tire peeling out and blurring MARTIN...

then I noticed that it was your sleeving work. Very nice.









~Ceadder


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r* 
I take them all out at once.

Diagrams pertaining to color would still be just asuseful. For example, you might write out "Pin 1: Orange" on the PSU end and "Pin 2: Orange" on the motherboard end. Then you could simply make sure the (now white) wire went from pin 1 on the PSU end to pin 2 on the motherboard end.










Martin how do you keep your sleeving tight? when i stretch i out i miss that last like milimeter of sleeving right before the heatshrink... i think thats my only problem...


----------



## Ceadderman

Iz sad. My sleeving must suck since nobody even said nuffin.









Hey Carlos, I decided to hang tough on the netbook and just get the tool and pins from performance-pcs. Is gonna cost me roughly the same amount as shipping the PSU back and forth to have 4 pins applied.







Thank you for allowing me to do that if I would have gone the other way though.









~Ceadder


----------



## fshizl

no problem man! just let me know if you need any help with anything.. you know how to reach me!


----------



## Lutro0

So I should probably post this here =X










Basically, I saw someone put techflex pet overtop of clean cut on another post, and it looked beautiful. But that was with a headphone cord or something. So, I decided to do up a sample on a molex and see how it would turn out. And I cranked this out in 3 min, so please excuse the non-straightness of the heatshrink. It seems this would be a great alternative given you have the time to work with the double sleeving. But it turned out ok? Thoughts?


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

Thanks Caeddar!









Carlos: I just hold it there, although I used to use clamps and before that self closing tweezers.









Caeddar: Your sleeving does not "suck." Although there is definitely room for improvement, it's already better than most beginners' work.







The most important thing is that the sleeve is fully stretched, and from your pictures that seems to be the case. Your heatshrink segments could use some shortening, however, and if you could move the end of the sleeve closer to the connector, it would look that much better. That said - if you're happy with it in it's current state, that's all that matters!


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lutro0* 
So I should probably post this here =X
Basically, I saw someone put techflex pet overtop of clean cut on another post, and it looked beautiful. But that was with a headphone cord or something. So, I decided to do up a sample on a molex and see how it would turn out. And I cranked this out in 3 min, so please excuse the non-straightness of the heatshrink. It seems this would be a great alternative given you have the time to work with the double sleeving. But it turned out ok? Thoughts?

How's that on flexibility? Just looking at it, it looks like it would be rather stiff.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrgull13* 
How's that on flexibility? Just looking at it, it looks like it would be rather stiff.

Well I won't lie; the clean cut has always been a little stiff. But it is pretty flexible. It wouldn't seem it would cause any problems routing cables and what not. The again ive never had mdpc sleeving in my hand to compare either.


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lutro0* 
Well I won't lie; the clean cut has always been a little stiff. But it is pretty flexible. It wouldn't seem it would cause any problems routing cables and what not. The again ive never had mdpc sleeving in my hand to compare either.

Well it looks better than just using plain old PET, but I think having to buy the same amount of both clean cut and PET you might as well look at MDPC, though I don't know prices because I haven't looked.

Went to go check out MDPC prices but his site is down for some reason unless he changed it recently, the link on the OP doesn't work for me.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Working for me. http://en.mdpc-x.com/


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
Working for me. http://en.mdpc-x.com/

Firefox is being stupid for me right now..

I could only get the german version.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrgull13* 
Well it looks better than just using plain old PET, but I think having to buy the same amount of both clean cut and PET you might as well look at MDPC, though I don't know prices because I haven't looked.

I get mine through Fuzzyletters on ebay, he has some very low prices. But your probably right, I've done alot of trial and error, and when im done with all the different heatshrink and sleeving that I have gotten in the journey, I could have just bought mdpc in the first place lol. Although knowing what I do now it would still be a little cheaper. Then that would open the debate of quality vs cost. =P


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lutro0* 
Fu*rr*yletters

Fixed


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Fixed









Why thank you









Thats what I get for calling him everything from hairyalphabets to woolyABCs, the moment I go to type it correctly.


----------



## Copenhagen69

cant wait to get my sleeving ... gonna be sleeving my antec 1200. Should be fun


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


I get mine through Fuzzyletters on ebay, he has some very low prices. But your probably right, I've done alot of trial and error, and when im done with all the different heatshrink and sleeving that I have gotten in the journey, I could have just bought mdpc in the first place lol. Although knowing what I do now it would still be a little cheaper. Then that would open the debate of quality vs cost. =P



I got my last batch through Furryletters also, I just didn't like how it looked when I was done (I only did my fans) so I told my wife when she was ready to do her PSU to let me know and we'd just do a double order from MDPC


----------



## Copenhagen69

how much is shipping from MDPC to the US?

I know everything is different but on AVG what do ya think?


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


how much is shipping from MDPC to the US?

I know everything is different but on AVG what do ya think?


11.50 Euros, or around 14 USD

That's the cheapest, it goes up about 8 bucks each "step"


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jrgull13*


11.50 Euros, or around 14 USD


oh sweet thats it?

I was expecting at least 20 something


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


oh sweet thats it?

I was expecting at least 20 something


Like for my order, we were getting 40 meters of green, 40 meters of orange, 10 meters of heat shrink, and shipping was 17.50 euro for that, too lazy to do the math in my head, but it's just over 20 USD for shipping


----------



## Copenhagen69

not bad for that amount of sleeving though!


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


not bad for that amount of sleeving though!


considering it's coming from germany, that's pretty dang good i think.


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jrgull13*


considering it's coming from germany, that's pretty dang good i think.


yep for shipping around the world. Good ol Nills bringing us the good stuff


----------



## Ceadderman

I think it came to $24.76 or so to Washington State where I live. I have 10 meters of Black leftover from my order that I need to wheel and deal with. I'm actually wanting to trade half of it for same amount of Red so I can do my SATA power cables.

Then I just need to get 5m of SATA sleeve and enough Red Shrink to finish up my SATA cables.

So if anyone has any MDPC Red single sleeve I'm putting the offer out there once again.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *jrgull13*


Like for my order, we were getting 40 meters of green, 40 meters of orange, 10 meters of heat shrink, and shipping was 17.50 euro for that, too lazy to do the math in my head, but it's just over 20 USD for shipping


----------



## kayvis

This thread is great, kudos to all of you that are currently sleeving and have provided information herein for those of us with little to no experience sleeving. I plan to practice on a few cheap cables just to get the hang of it before attempting it on my main PSU. I'll be reading this from page 1 tomorrow morning.

Keep up the nice work!


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

Added 3 hours daily of volunteering to my schedule this week... still managed to do some sleeving!










































MDPC-X FTW!


----------



## Shane1244

Dude, Not so much DOF in the pictures.

Beautiful sleeving though.







Now.. Where is all this sleeving going?


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

With the lens stopped all the way down, it would look like generic reseller product photog (especially with the white bg). I certainly hope I'm above that.









Thank you for the compliment though







.

These are all cables I've sleeved for other people... I'd say more but apparently that would result in a $500 fine (according to the OCN TOS).


----------



## Dilyn

I can not stop staring at this stuff man.


----------



## Shane1244

YOu dont have to stop it all the way down. The DOF is just too much, Just lessen it a bit.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I think the DOF is fine. It's really down to personal taste, but I like that with the shallow DOF, it focuses in on the perfect heatshrinking job. To me, that's what a good sleeve job is all about. Perfect heatshrinking. Martin, you could use PET sleeve and I would still love it as long as the heatshrink was perfect









Btw, does anyone have any ideas on things I can sleeve that aren't computer related? I have some purple and red sleeve lying around and they're just so beautiful... Really want to be able to use them somehow.


----------



## Yogi

Forks, spoons, maybe some marshmallows?


----------



## oliverw92

Sleeve your hair


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Sleeve your hair

Or my fingers??


----------



## oliverw92

Or your... wait nvm.


----------



## Ceadderman

She might like that.









But how bout Chopsticks.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Or your... wait nvm.


----------



## oliverw92

I'm not sure Nils intended his sleeving to be used for contraception.


----------



## jrgull13

He would have to put a disclaimer on there for that.

That could be interesting though (sleeving your hair) would be like fake dreadlocks.
If I had hair I'd totally try that.. but mine started falling out when i was 17


----------



## Shane1244

It'd be nearly impossible to get off. That is if you could find big enough sleeving to get it on in the first place..

It'd be like a Chinese finger trap. Except, Nerd Peener Trap.


----------



## Dilyn

I'm pretty sure that the sleeving would rip as soon as you got a NARB or ARB


----------



## mastical

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
I'm pretty sure that the sleeving would rip as soon as you got a NARB or ARB









ha


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Oh god what I have I done to this thread...


----------



## Dilyn

I don't even know how it happened.
Although I'm intrigued as to what else I could sleeve as well... I'm planning on having a couple meters extra, but I don't know what to do with it.


----------



## j0n3z3y

Oh crap! What in the world did I just walk in on?!?

*in the tone of a old hippy* Oh WOW Maaaaannn! I'm freeeeakin' out!


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:

New MDPC Johnnys - you thought ribbed was good, wait 'til you try TRIPLE WEAVE!


----------



## JollyGood

back OT, i just ordered mine from Nils, 20m small black, 20m small orange, 5m sata orange, 5m USB black, white sata HS and black small HS + some cable clips for better management. can't wait







)
and i just realized, the orange sleeve is UV reactive. what kind of lamp do i need to lighten that orange and nothing else?


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JollyGood* 
back OT, i just ordered mine from Nils, 20m small black, 20m small orange, 5m sata orange, 5m USB black, white sata HS and black small HS + some cable clips for better management. can't wait







)
and i just realized, the orange sleeve is UV reactive. what kind of lamp do i need to lighten that orange and nothing else?

I dunno, and orange light?


----------



## PapaSmurf

You need a UV (or Black) Light like these. It will still light up the rest of the case to some degree, but only UV Reactive items will be bright.
http://www.svc.com/12dccfl-uv-22.html


----------



## JollyGood

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
You need a UV (or Black) Light like these. It will still light up the rest of the case to some degree, but only UV Reactive items will be bright.
http://www.svc.com/12dccfl-uv-22.html

yeah that's what i was hoping for, a cathode that would lit up all uv reactive parts, regardless of the color. i was a bit confused before cause i've often seen uv cathodes of different color. i thought they only light up matching colors.
but then, why are there uv red, blue, yellow, green and so on?


----------



## PapaSmurf

The cathodes are just UV. They sell some UV reactive fans of different colors with UV LED's or CCFL's, but the only color difference is the fans themselves. The UV lights are the same.


----------



## galaxyy

Hmm....look what showed up today.

The pictures suck, I'm still figuring out how to work my new fancy digital SLR.



I think I have one of Nils's best drawings











It will take me awhile to get all this up, I have a lot of sleeving to do...and a lot of building to do for my WC setup.


----------



## b0klau

Pink! Jk


----------



## galaxyy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *b0klau*


Pink! Jk


Well it looked more purple on the website and I was just curious so I ordered one of those just to see. My wife didn't like it and I'm glad she talked me out of ordering a lot more. I'm still going to use it even though it's like a dark pink. We'll see where though...it does go with my other colors.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *galaxyy*






Yep, that is the coolest drawing I have seen to date from Nils


----------



## companion_cube

I think I'm going to order a sample of that mdcp purple sleeve, I'm dying to see the color in person. Pink...purple...pink...purple what is it???







lol


----------



## Copenhagen69

Is Nils on this forum or just XS?


----------



## Aximous

He pops in occasionally here too.


----------



## oliverw92

He never goes on XS anymore pretty much, not since things changed over there.


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
He never goes on XS anymore pretty much, not since things changed over there.

could of swore I saw him post in the sleeving thread like last week









maybe not ....


----------



## PapaSmurf

He last posted there on 8/25.


----------



## jrgull13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jrgull13* 
I dunno, and orange light?

Oh my bad, I thought you weren't looking at UV


----------



## Shane1244

Just got my ATX remover, Didn't have time to do the whole PSU, but I did do one 6 Pin PCI-E. I just eyed the heat shrink lengths, I think I did pretty good. I'll try making a jig later.


----------



## Blizzie

Here are mine.. just finished with MDPC-X. I bought the connectors, crimps, and cables (18 AWG stranded) myself and made them.


----------



## fshizl

nice job, very clean looking cables.


----------



## B-roca

Hey I was thinking has anyone tried sleeving that is a little bigger and gone 2 cables per sleeve I think it could look quite nice


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *B-roca* 
Hey I was thinking has anyone tried sleeving that is a little bigger and gone 2 cables per sleeve I think it could look quite nice

People have, and it looks horrible.


----------



## B-roca

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shane1244* 
People have, and it looks horrible.

would you possibly be able to fidn me a link?


----------



## Dilyn

@Blizzie - Very good looking mate.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *B-roca* 
would you possibly be able to fidn me a link?

I"ll try. I can't remember where I saw it, I know it wasn't here though,


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I agree.. It's not the nicest look. The problem is that the heatshrink ends up looking awful because you can't fit it into the connector. This was a tester that I did. Two wires coming out of the same pin. One wire per sleeve, but the heatshrink is over both wires. It would be even worse when the two wires are coming from different pins


----------



## Dilyn

Just two more weeks till I can finally afford my stuff


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dilyn*


Just two more weeks till I can finally afford my stuff










Job. Get one.


----------



## Dilyn

Just turned in my job app for my favorite food place. I got a call back from them last November, but there was a massive chain of events that prevented me from calling. Major mistake, as I am STILL unemployed.

Hopefully that will change this time around. And I just got over being sick, so that shouldn't be a problem this time around.


----------



## Shane1244

good luck!







Job makes having a computer addiction so much nicer.









Also, I just tossed a few emails to FurryLetters, and he said he might be getting some 3/16th 4:1 heatshrink in tomorrow morning. If he doesn't get any tomorrow, He'll be ordering some.

3/16th Heatshrink fits PERFECTLY over the 1/8th CleanCut sleeving, and once its shrunk at 4:1, It'll grip it SOO tight.









I also just asked him if CleanCut comes in different colours. Hopefully he does, so we don't have to pay for MDPc premium!


----------



## Dilyn

Indeed it does. I've managed to fuel my addiction all Summer long helping my grandma with her Mystery Shopping jobs








Hopefully a REAL and STEADY job will allow me to finally finish this rig once and for all.

Wait so is CleanCut the kind that MDPC sells?


----------



## b0klau

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 

Wait so is CleanCut the kind that MDPC sells?









Nooope


----------



## Shane1244

Not the exact same. It's the next best. I'd say it's just as good.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dilyn*


Wait so is CleanCut the kind that MDPC sells?










Nope, it isn't quite as good, but close. And he only has it in Black.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


good luck!







Job makes having a computer addiction so much nicer.









Also, I just tossed a few emails to FurryLetters, and he said he might be getting some 3/16th 4:1 heatshrink in tomorrow morning. If he doesn't get any tomorrow, He'll be ordering some.

3/16th Heatshrink fits PERFECTLY over the 1/8th CleanCut sleeving, and once its shrunk at 4:1, It'll grip it SOO tight.









I also just asked him if CleanCut comes in different colours. Hopefully he does, so we don't have to pay for MDPc premium!










Awesome! I might order some since I've been thinking about doing it to my XFX PSU.









I heard that you can get a discount from him if you tell him that you're from OCN (or something like that).


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


Awesome! I might order some since I've been thinking about doing it to my XFX PSU.









I heard that you can get a discount from him if you tell him that you're from OCN (or something like that).


You can contact him directly for a better deal. I told him I'd be telling all you guys, so if you mention my name he should know exactly what stuff you're looking for.

His eMail is: [email protected]


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *b0klau*


Nooope



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


Not the exact same. It's the next best. I'd say it's just as good.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Nope, it isn't quite as good, but close. And he only has it in Black.


Alrighty then








I'll just stick to MDPC then. As I need white.
I can't wait


----------



## NYM

I'm using seasonic x650

I don't understand why some of the 24pins ATX needs 2cables into 1 pin,in my case, there is 3 of them which have 2cables in one pin for the motherboard connector.

It makes sleeving very difficult and ugly even if i sleeve the cables individually.

They are the orange(3.3v), black(GND) and red(5v) cables which have 2 cables into 1 pin, can i cut them away or something.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Does anyone from the USA have any leftover MDPC Yellow sleeving they want to get rid of? I'm looking for about 5 to 10 feet of the small Yellow and possibly 2 or 3 feet of the sata Yellow sleeving.


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

f/8 for all you shallow-DOF haters


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r*


f/8 for all you shallow-DOF haters




























WOW! I don't know what DOF is but that picture somehow makes your work look 100x times better!


----------



## Dilyn

As of posting, two days short of three weeks until I can place my order









Crysis Gamer, your pics just make me want to sleeve even more than I had before seeing them. It's ridiculous. You sir, are an excellent sleever. I hope that you are proud of your work.


----------



## Shane1244

I must say, I love F8.

I like DOF, But it was just toooo much! Mind posting what lens you have, as well as a picture of your light box?


----------



## PapaSmurf

He uses a 50mm F1.4 lens with a macro extender.


----------



## tombom

DOF stands for depth of focus I believe and F8 stands for 8 setting on their f-stop which results in this sort of a pic.

Correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## PapaSmurf

DOF is Depth Of Field. What it refers to is the distance from front to back of how much is in focus.

The F stops are the effective aperture opening of the lense. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F-number for more details on it. Basically he higher the number the less light it lets in and the greater depth of field you have. The lower the number the more light it lets in and the shallower the depth of field.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tombom*


DOF stands for depth of focus I believe and F8 stands for 8 setting on their f-stop which results in this sort of a pic.

Correct me if I'm wrong.


It is.


----------



## Jaba_1000

Hey all.
Just got a heap of sleeving from MDPC-X and a ATX tool. The problem that Im having is that the tool doesn't seem to work. I think that Im using it right but it just doesnt seem to fold the pins back. Can anyone give us a hand?
















Cheers
Jaba

PS Am sleeving a HX850. Dont know if that matters


----------



## Corrupted

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jaba_1000* 
Hey all.
Just got a heap of sleeving from MDPC-X and a ATX tool. The problem that Im having is that the tool doesn't seem to work. I think that Im using it right but it just doesnt seem to fold the pins back. Can anyone give us a hand?
















Cheers
Jaba

PS Am sleeving a HX850. Dont know if that matters

The chances of it "not working," seem far less likely than the chances of you not using it right.


----------



## Jaba_1000

Then how do I use it right?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jaba_1000* 
Then how do I use it right?









How are you using it currently? (btw are you following the guide that Nils e-mailed you?) I have the tool also and have found it rather easy to use, even on some of my really old school power supplies.


----------



## Jaba_1000

Im following the instructions as Nils sent them to me. I insert the tool in as far as it will go into the connector and pull on the wire. The connector is horizontal and the tool is vertical, just like Nils and every other tute has shown. But it just wont come out.













































Cheers
Jaba


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jaba_1000* 
Im following the instructions as Nils sent them to me. I insert the tool in as far as it will go into the connector and pull on the wire. The connector is horizontal and the tool is vertical, just like Nils and every other tute has shown. But it just wont come out.













































Cheers
Jaba

Wait what? Connector is horizontal and tool is vertical? They should both be horizontal? Unless I'm mis-interpreting what you're saying.


----------



## Jaba_1000

The connector is sitting flat on the bench (long side on the bench) and the pins of the tool going into the hole vertically.

Clear as mud


----------



## Copenhagen69

lol ummm pics are worth a million words


----------



## MijnWraak

make sure the prongs on the tool are going on the outside of the pin inside the plastic casing.

Made a quick diagram for you in paint haha










Red = ATX pin (the metal one with wings that is attached to wire. you're trying to remove this.)
Black = plastic casing
Green = spot you want the prongs of the tool to go. Follow the purple arrows


----------



## jaded

I just ordered a blue sleeving kit for my new mod im going to start tuesday, will I definetely need a pin removing tool? going to sleeving everything except my antec sig 850


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jaded* 
I just ordered a blue sleeving kit for my new mod im going to start tuesday, will I definetely need a pin removing tool? going to sleeving everything except my antec sig 850

I did about 40 pins with staples. Once I got the hang of it on practice ones, I only needed one staple for most of that! It is frustrating in the beginning though, so it's up to you.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jaba_1000* 
The connector is sitting flat on the bench (long side on the bench) and the pins of the tool going into the hole vertically.

Clear as mud









Oh I see what you mean now. Sorry, I thought you had the actual tool vertical, which would imply that you had bent the prongs of it or something lol.

The pins can be stiff and it isn't easy to hold the tool AND the connector in one hand, but keep trying! They'll definitely come out, it's just a bit tough the first few times. Once you get it the first time, the next ones will be easier


----------



## PapaSmurf

One thing that tends to help is to push the wire as far INTO the plug as possible, insert the tool, THEN pull it out. Otherwise the edge of the clip can hang on the backside of the plug.


----------



## McDown

Anybody tried this extractor?
http://www2.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=45793

or should I get this one
http://www2.ncix.com/products/index....re=Mod%2FSmart


----------



## Jaba_1000

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
make sure the prongs on the tool are going on the outside of the pin inside the plastic casing.

Made a quick diagram for you in paint haha

Thanks for that MijnWraak, thats the way I have been doing it. Guess more practice is required.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Oh I see what you mean now. Sorry, I thought you had the actual tool vertical, which would imply that you had bent the prongs of it or something lol.

The pins can be stiff and it isn't easy to hold the tool AND the connector in one hand, but keep trying! They'll definitely come out, it's just a bit tough the first few times. Once you get it the first time, the next ones will be easier









Cheers spiderm0nkey. Practice makes perfect hey







But Im so impatient. lol

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
One thing that tends to help is to push the wire as far INTO the plug as possible, insert the tool, THEN pull it out. Otherwise the edge of the clip can hang on the backside of the plug.

Make sure pin pushed all the way in. Ill give that a go and get back to you guys. Thanks Papa Smurf

Rep for all


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *McDown* 
Anybody tried this extractor?
http://www2.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=45793

or should I get this one
http://www2.ncix.com/products/index....re=Mod%2FSmart

I also live in Canada, and this one was the cheapest for me.

It's built really well, and the prongs don't snap, they'll just bend, and they eaily bend back. Definitely recommend it.


----------



## McDown

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


I also live in Canada, and this one was the cheapest for me.

It's built really well, and the prongs don't snap, they'll just bend, and they eaily bend back. Definitely recommend it.


Do you mean the one from the first link?


----------



## Shane1244

oops, Sorry. I pressed ctrl + v to copy the link, I just assumed it went in

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=2077


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FurryLetters*

I ordered it today 3/16" 3 to 1.....

It should be here in mid week


Whee!









EDIT:

Wow, He just told me he ordered a total of 30,000 feet of random sized heatshrink. :S my god.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


Whee!









EDIT:

Wow, He just told me he ordered a total of 30,000 feet of random sized heatshrink. :S my god.


You could heatshrink a house with that :/


----------



## Dilyn

I wanna see somebody do that.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Gimme 30,000 feet of heatshrink and it'll be done.


----------



## PapaSmurf

I would settle for about 10 foot of the Yellow MDPC sleeving.


----------



## b0klau

How cutee


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *b0klau* 









How cutee

Aww







It is cute!


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Aww







It is cute!

I heard that before ... then she never called again


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *copenhagen69* 
i heard that before ... Then she never called again

















LOL


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


I heard that before ... then she never called again










LOL bl mate


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

Thanks all









Papasmurf: Not always









Mostly I use a 17-40 f/4L.


----------



## Dilyn

So beautiful


----------



## Shane1244

Got any pictures of the rigs you've installed them on?


----------



## mark_thaddeus

Guys I found some sleeves that beat the MDPC-X in size, Check out the FTW sleeves:









source: tipidpc.com

I already ordered 50 ft of blue and silver for my rig! I saw these bad boys in person and the wires can't be ssen when installed!

I can't wait!


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mark_thaddeus* 
Guys I found some sleeves that beat the MDPC-X, Check it out:










I already ordered 50 ft of blue and silver for my rig! I saw these bad boys in person and the wires can't be ssen when installed!

I can't wait!

what color wires were used? a black on black does nothing really


----------



## mark_thaddeus

A yellow one, hold on while I put up the pic of a yellow in the sleeve!


----------



## mark_thaddeus

As promised:









source: tipidpc.com


----------



## godofdeath

now where di u get it lol


----------



## SimpleTech

Oh yeah, real original dude.


----------



## b0klau

And where are we supposed to buy these?


----------



## mark_thaddeus

It's so perfect for one wire sleeving works! Here it is to show how small the sleeve is!









source: tipidpc.com

No heat shrink to show its diameter!


----------



## mark_thaddeus

I was only able to get these here locally in Manila (PH). You can only order them @ 25ft. or 50ft. spools. The actual cost is Php (Philippines Peso) 1,190 for the 50ft one. With a conversion rate of 1:44 (depending on the exchange rate) it comes out to about $27.10c for a 50ft. spool (without shipping yet).

I think that's a little cheaper than getting the MDPC-X sleeves. I can help people to order this without extra cost if you want!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Unless my math is way off, as of two minutes ago MDPC-X sleeve is about .30 USA a foot while FTW is about .54 USA a foot.


----------



## mark_thaddeus

Hmm my bad then, because when I ordered spools from MDPC-X they came out to EU$7.95 per 10meters I was comparing in feet!

1 EU = 66 Php
1 US = 44 Php

@20 meters. = Php 1,049.40 (without shipping) I got mine for Php1,190 for 50 ft. so it is a little bit more expensive!

@SimpleTech,

I was just trying to help out the community by offering to help order these sleeves at no extra cost to anyone. I also didn't claim to own the pics, I just said I'd post them. By the way the link you showed is where you do get them and it's located here in the PH. So I really don't get your post?


----------



## PapaSmurf

7.95 Euros per 10 METERS (not feet) from MDPC-X.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

If you stretch MDPC sleeving it becomes non-see through as well.

I love the service that Nils offers, as well as his site and shipping times so the premium isn't that much IMO.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I think that the picture of the MDPC sleeve in that comparison is pretty bad. Someone doesn't know how to stretch sleeve properly







None of my MDPC sleeve looks as bad as that on the wires haha.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mark_thaddeus* 
@SimpleTech,

I was just trying to help out the community by offering to help order these sleeves at no extra cost to anyone. I also didn't claim to own the pics, I just said I'd post them. By the way the link you showed is where you do get them and it's located here in the PH. So I really don't get your post?

The pictures you were posting almost sounded like your own. You need to include a source of where you found them.


----------



## mark_thaddeus

I will from this point onwards so there's no confusion! Cheers!


----------



## mark_thaddeus

No the MDPC-X sleeves were just taken at an angle that doesn't really show off its looks! Horible use of the flash that's all.


----------



## fshizl

the mdpc sleeve wasnt stretched out...

the pictures are horrible... it would be better if they had it stretched out and with heatshrink...


----------



## mav2000

What size sleeve works for psu single cables? I have bought MDPC earlier, was wonfering i I should use furry letters this time around.


----------



## fshizl

its up to you bro, its 1/8 inch sleeving... however mdpc is the best stuff... if you want colors furry isnt good cause its regular pet, if your going black then its up to you.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Black from furryletters is great. Absolutely love that stuff, but for colours, MDPC all the way


----------



## mav2000

Thanks guys...any ideas on cost differential between the two?


----------



## fshizl

MDPC....

for me however, i payed a lot... cause well i got a bunch of it... lol

your looking at like 40 meters of mdpc, shipping is 11 euros, and the cost is like 7 euros per 4, so 28 euros+11 = 39 euros, throw some heatshrink about 4 meters, at 8 euros for all 4...

47 euros... for it shipped, rough estimate.


----------



## oliverw92

That 'ftw' sleeving is a joke lol







The website you buy it from is awful - the top picture of the girl with sleeving in her mouth has been stolen from a fairly well known project on bit-tech and the sleeving in her mouth is MDPC sleeving... fail


----------



## mark_thaddeus

Yeah I know (first pic on the top) but I already saw the product first hand so it's not a joke. He gave me a 10ft sample for free and will post some pics that I myself will take. Of course I'm not pretty good at taking photos unlike some of the people here (major props for the excellent pics).

Plus he does also sell MDPC-X (that's why he posts those sample pics) that he personally orders from nils as well so if you don't want to go through the hassle of ordering online and have it delivered he does it for us. He's a well known dealer for sleevings in that site.


----------



## semajha

wow! beautiful case fshzle!! I've been scrolling up and down for 15 min. looking at that thing lol. Clean and great color theme, you've inspired me to go for something similar.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Damn it fshizl sell me that comp :/


----------



## fshizl

Lol 6k and I'll hand deliver


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

ohmaigawd i need to get on the street corner some moar if i want that


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *semajha*


wow! beautiful case fshzle!! I've been scrolling up and down for 15 min. looking at that thing lol. Clean and great color theme, you've inspired me to go for something similar.


Indeed.
When I first saw it, I was like "MOTM material right there".
Then I saw that it was apart of the MOTM contest









But then I saw that Syrillian's tech station was ALSO in there. It was a hard decision, but I had to go with Syr's









Fshzle, yours was an extremely close second. You did an excellent job. I absolutely LOVE the way it looks.


----------



## Shane1244

I'm thinking if you get some more pictures, you might make it to MDPC.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dilyn*


Indeed.
When I first saw it, I was like "MOTM material right there".
Then I saw that it was apart of the MOTM contest









But then I saw that Syrillian's tech station was ALSO in there. It was a hard decision, but I had to go with Syr's









Fshzle, yours was an extremely close second. You did an excellent job. I absolutely LOVE the way it looks.


man, it sucks to get beat by the case, i saw pictures of the case with the components on it... to be honest... as nice as the bench looks, id never put components on it...

fish has pictures of the bench with the motherboard and stuff on it.. its on the motm thread, he linked the pictures on there... check it out...


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


man, it sucks to get beat by the case, i saw pictures of the case with the components on it... to be honest... as nice as the bench looks, id never put components on it...

fish has pictures of the bench with the motherboard and stuff on it.. its on the motm thread, he linked the pictures on there... check it out...


Ya I've seen the pics. It's just...


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

Awesome build Carlos










































































Sorry for the watermarks, but it has come to my attention that certain people are taking my photos, reuploading them, and claiming them as their own...

If anyone has an alternative solution please let me know


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Sadly there isn't really an alternative solution. Being an artist this is something I've dealt with for a few years now and it isn't nice. A water mark is the only way to go unfortunately.


----------



## Copenhagen69

lol ... who steals sleeving photos? companies? or just people ...


----------



## PapaSmurf

You would be surprised. It just happened in this very thread a couple of days ago.


----------



## oliverw92

Stupid Philippine guys are stealing sleeving photos and then using them against MDPC, even though they are pics of MDPC sleeving. They also drew pictures of Nils being hanged


----------



## Gunfire

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Stupid Philippine guys are stealing sleeving photos and then using them against MDPC, even though they are pics of MDPC sleeving. They also drew pictures of Nils being *hung*









Sorry, that was bugging me a bit...


----------



## b0klau

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
*Stupid Philippine guys* are stealing sleeving photos and then using them against MDPC, even though they are pics of MDPC sleeving. They also drew pictures of Nils being hanged









That's not nice...







I'm Filipino


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *b0klau* 
That's not nice...







I'm Filipino

I didn't say all Filipino guys, just a select few - mainly from TipidPC or whatever it is. They have been so cruel to Nils that is just isn't fair - he has never done anything to them. Sorry if you mis-interpreted me.


----------



## b0klau

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
I didn't say all Filipino guys, just a select few - mainly from TipidPC or whatever it is. They have been so cruel to Nils that is just isn't fair - he has never done anything to them. Sorry if you mis-interpreted me.


----------



## mark_thaddeus

Ah so that's it, I didn't know they drew a pic of nils being hanged. We have asked the guy who posted the one pic from the Brazil Modder to be removed (and it has been removed in TipidPC). We also explained to them that they need to put a source when using someone else's photos.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gunfire* 
Sorry, that was bugging me a bit...









Hanged is correct.


----------



## mark_thaddeus

We're also asking the offending (via email to the tipidPC forum I just sent) party to apologize to nils for the cruel and tasteless joke via the drawing he made and for posting pics (without link source) of other people. Don't know what got into him but hopefully he does it.

I wish that any misunderstanding is cleared up before escalating any further. I hope people (modders) don't get into fights for things like this, my two cents.


----------



## BlackHoleSon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gunfire* 
Sorry, that was bugging me a bit...









In English, the correct term is hanged. I know it doesn't make sense, but the proper past tense of hang (meaning a person having a rope around their neck to break it/ strangle them) is indeed hanged.


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mark_thaddeus* 
Ah so that's it, I didn't know they drew a pic of nils being hanged. We have asked the guy who posted the one pic from the Brazil Modder to be removed (and it has been removed in TipidPC). We also explained to them that they need to put a source when using someone else's photos.

Giving a source is not good enough if i'm perfectly honest - you need to get the permission of the person who took the photo, otherwise you are breaking international copyright laws. Miguel (the guy who took the picture of the girl with the sleeving in the mouth) could take TipidPC to court if he wanted, and he would win.

If you can get the TipidPC guys and the other Filopino guys who have offended Nils to apoligise to him properly then I'm sure Nils will accept that apology and start a clean slate - he is a firm believer in things like that.


----------



## Dualbrain

Whatever comes out, the statement was made by closing it to the country of the Philippines, but now MDPC-projects are re-opened because I am a believer in the "good" of the majority. Honor is a good thing for everyone and all should help to keep the honor and respect and not tolerate "badmouthers, copy people, thieves" etc. in their own communities.

So many communities turn into commercial advertising places for their people's own interests. I never participate in this by giving "support" or doing "promotion" etc. etc. in communities, because I never wanted to be a part of the destruction of all the good communities which were all pure hobby based in the past. It all turns into "I want to sell my items" and "I use the communties to do so" places.

Honor and respect is going down the more commerce infects the communities.

We see it partially in this thread too, when people come up with "I got this and that and it's so much better than this and that ... and I could get this and that and offer it to you for cheaper than this and that".

Conclusion for me: Everyone should work together to keep away the commercial infection of communities, because commerce destroys our hobby more and more. That's why I always hold back, even if I get personally attacked or badmouthed for no reason.


----------



## mark_thaddeus

I definitely agree with Dualbrain, commercialism destroys a lot of things when we let it get out of hand. Purists are the ones affected and we as a community should always reach out to help one another.

I'm really glad to be part of a community that believes in giving people second chances!


----------



## Shane1244

Furry just got the 3/16" 3:1 I requested. I just ordered 15ft.

It's 65 cents a foot on eBay, but if you email him directly, He'll give it to you for 55 cents a foot. 
http://cgi.ebay.ca/3-16-HEAT-SHRINK-...f#ht_500wt_928


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shane1244* 
Furry just got the 3/16" 3:1 I requested. I just ordered 15ft.

It's 65 cents a foot on eBay, but if you email him directly, He'll give it to you for 55 cents a foot.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/3-16-HEAT-SHRINK-...f#ht_500wt_928

Only thing is that it looks like the wall is pretty thick









still great for some cheap heatshrink!


----------



## Lutro0

>.< I believe its the same stuff I had him order for me. Its techflex shrinkflex. Link Its actually really nice heatshrink. Looks good and shrinks properly. Wall is a little thick but will work fine on sleeving other then clean cut.
(Works for clean cut but you can't jam the whole sleeve and heatshrink into the connector - just the heatshrunk wire)

I can double check this later, and upload some pics of the one connector I finished.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


>.< I believe its the same stuff I had him order for me. Its techflex shrinkflex. Link Its actually really nice heatshrink. Looks good and shrinks properly. Wall is a little thick but will work fine on sleeving other then clean cut. 
(Works for clean cut but you can't jam the whole sleeve and heatshrink into the connector - just the heatshrunk wire)

I can double check this later, and upload some pics of the one connector I finished.


That's probably it, He orders almost everything from TechFlex. Something cool that I saw was that TechFlex has it in clear! I've never seen that done before!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


That's probably it, He orders almost everything from TechFlex. Something cool that I saw was that TechFlex has it in clear! I've never seen that done before!


That sounds awesome!


----------



## SimpleTech

Not to sound like a nub, but how do you guys get the discount from Barry (aka FurryLetters)?

When I had requested a total of all of my stuff, there was no discount or anything. I mentioned that I was a member here and that he gave discounts to OCN members.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Not to sound like a nub, but how do you guys get the discount from Barry (aka FurryLetters)?

When I had requested a total of all of my stuff, there was no discount or anything. I mentioned that I was a member here and that he gave discounts to OCN members.









Jsut contact him directly. He gives the 1/8" CleanCut for 18 cents a foot.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shane1244* 
Jsut contact him directly. He gives the 1/8" CleanCut for 18 cents a foot.

Yeah I had emailed him last week regarding the prices on his sleeving and 3/16 heat shrink that finally came in.

Just wasn't quite too sure how I pay for all of this (through eBay or PayPal directly).


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Yeah I had emailed him last week regarding the prices on his sleeving and 3/16 heat shrink that finally came in.

Just wasn't quite too sure how I pay for all of this (through eBay or PayPal directly).

Just tell him what you want, and he will send you a PayPal invoice.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shane1244* 
Just tell him what you want, and he will send you a PayPal invoice.

Will do.

+Rep for ya


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Will do.

+Rep for ya

How much are you ordering?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shane1244* 
How much are you ordering?

I am ordering:

100ft 1/4" Clean Cut
200ft 1/8" Clean Cut
10ft 3/16" Heat Shrink

I think eBay goofed things up a bit. I couldn't request a total invoice after purchasing all three.

$64.50 without shipping sound right?


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
I am ordering:

100ft 1/4" Clean Cut
200ft 1/8" Clean Cut
10ft 3/16" Heat Shrink

I think eBay goofed things up a bit. I couldn't request a total invoice after purchasing all three.

$64.50 without shipping sound right?

how are you going to shrink the 1/4"?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
how are you going to shrink the 1/4"?

I have like 8+ ft heat shrink left from when I had purchased it from Sidewinder Computers a year ago. Fits perfectly over 1/4" sleeving.


----------



## [nK]Sharp

Anyone know where to get good heat shrink (will be using it for 1/8 sleeving) in Canada?


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[nK]Sharp*


Anyone know where to get good heat shrink (will be using it for 1/8 sleeving) in Canada?


The stuff we have been talking about this page so be good. It's 3/18" 3:1

If you want, you can wait for me to get it, and I'll tell you how it is. I live in Canada and should be getting it in a week or so.


----------



## mark_thaddeus

I'm trying to sleeve my HX650 and I have a couple of questions:

1) Can you sleeve your 20/24 pin without losing the warranty?
2) What's the best way to make sure that when you do sleeve the 20/24 pin cable it doesn't move around? Do you just use zip ties to keep it in place?

Thanks!


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mark_thaddeus*


I'm trying to sleeve my HX650 and I have a couple of questions:

1) Can you sleeve your 20/24 pin without losing the warranty?
2) What's the best way to make sure that when you do sleeve the 20/24 pin cable it doesn't move around? Do you just use zip ties to keep it in place?

Thanks!


1) Nope. 
2) Move around..? How so? Do you mean within the case? If so, then yes.. ZipTies will be what you want.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


I am ordering:

100ft 1/4" Clean Cut
200ft 1/8" Clean Cut
10ft 3/16" Heat Shrink

I think eBay goofed things up a bit. I couldn't request a total invoice after purchasing all three.

$64.50 without shipping sound right?


eBay? You're supposed to Email him directly. I thought you knew.
[email protected]


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shane1244* 
eBay? You're supposed to Email him directly. I thought you knew.
[email protected]

Yeah I got it sorted out this morning. Came out to be $63.50 with shipping included. Can't wait!









One question though for anyone who knows, how on earth do you sleeve 6+2 PCIe cables? This is how it looks like on my XFX PSU:


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mark_thaddeus* 

1) Can you sleeve your 20/24 pin without losing the warranty?

Yes. It has been asked before, and people have gotten emails back from Corsair saying as long as the actual unit has not been opened, it is still warrantied. I think they'd test the actual pins to make sure theyre in the correct spot though, so if you mess up with that it'll be your own fault.

As long as you don't open the case of the power supply, you'll be okay.


----------



## t-ramp

It shouldn't be too hard. Just take the pins out of the +2 part.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Yeah I got it sorted out this morning. Came out to be $63.50 with shipping included. Can't wait!









One question though for anyone who knows, how on earth do you sleeve 6+2 PCIe cables? This is how it looks like on my XFX PSU:










Same way you sleeve all other cables. Just on a smaller scale. The +2 pins will come out just like the rest of them.


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Yeah I got it sorted out this morning. Came out to be $63.50 with shipping included. Can't wait!









One question though for anyone who knows, how on earth do you sleeve 6+2 PCIe cables? This is how it looks like on my XFX PSU:

I just cut mine off. You just have to recrimp if you ever need the +2.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
I just cut mine off. You just have to recrimp if you ever need the +2.

He's got a 5870, He'll need a 8 pin. Unless all of the PCI-E cables are 6+2.


----------



## fshizl

i custom made my 8 pin...


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yogi* 
I just cut mine off. You just have to recrimp if you ever need the +2.

Yeah I may do that.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shane1244* 
He's got a 5870, He'll need a 8 pin. Unless all of the PCI-E cables are 6+2.

This is for my other rig.







GTX 470


----------



## Bastyn99

for someone who has never done anything like this before, how hard is it, and how big are the chances that I would break something other than the sleeving itself ? And the Molex Pin Remover from MDPC-X, is that the only tool I would need ?


----------



## fshizl

You need scissors some sort of heating tool. Heat gun or lighter. A ruler but a caliper is better. And patience. Lots of patience.


----------



## Shane1244

Unless you can't somehow put the right colour pins back in the right socket, you won't break anything.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastyn99* 
for someone who has never done anything like this before, how hard is it, and how big are the chances that I would break something other than the sleeving itself ? And the Molex Pin Remover from MDPC-X, is that the only tool I would need ?

The molex pin remover tool will only do molex pins. To do the likes of the 24pin power plug and your GPU power cables etc you need an ATX pin remover too.


----------



## godofdeath

what size heatshrink is for the 18awg wires with sleeving?


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
what size heatshrink is for the 18awg wires with sleeving?

Most people use 1/4" with a shrink ratio of 4:1. I just bought 3/16" that has a shrink ratio of 3:1.


----------



## Bastyn99

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
You need scissors some sort of heating tool. Heat gun or lighter. A ruler but a caliper is better. And patience. Lots of patience.

Got all of those things, maybe except the last one. But id really like to do something more than just putting everything together when I build my new rig.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shane1244* 
Unless you can't somehow put the right colour pins back in the right socket, you won't break anything.

Good to know, I think I could manage that

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
The molex pin remover tool will only do molex pins. To do the likes of the 24pin power plug and your GPU power cables etc you need an ATX pin remover too.

The tool i was referring to is not a Molex pin remover tool, its _made by_ Molex







the description of the tool says itll work for ATX, PCI-e and EPS pins so I take it that I wouldnt be needing any other removal tools ?


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastyn99* 
The tool i was referring to is not a Molex pin remover tool, its _made by_ Molex







the description of the tool says itll work for ATX, PCI-e and EPS pins so I take it that I wouldnt be needing any other removal tools ?

Correct - that is what you will use to remove wires from the 24pin, 8pin, 6+2pin, 6pin, etc... However it will not remove the contacts in 4pin auxiliary connectors.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastyn99* 
The tool i was referring to is not a Molex pin remover tool, its _made by_ Molex







the description of the tool says itll work for ATX, PCI-e and EPS pins so I take it that I wouldnt be needing any other removal tools ?

Kinda hard to understand which one you were meaning seeing as molex has become a general term for the 4 pin power for IDE HDD's etc







If you've got a modular power supply and no IDE drives or other devices requiring the 4-pin connector then that tool is perfectly fine.


----------



## Tator Tot

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g35/...h_Density.html

You guys may wish to check this out, FrozenCPU is offering some good quality Sleeving now.

It's the same stuff used on the NZXT Premium Cables.


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r* 
Correct - that is what you will use to remove wires from the 24pin, 8pin, 6+2pin, 6pin, etc... However it will not remove the contacts in 4pin auxiliary connectors.



























jaw dropping


----------



## pjstp20

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g35/...h_Density.html

You guys may wish to check this out, FrozenCPU is offering some good quality Sleeving now.

It's the same stuff used on the NZXT Premium Cables.

Wow, $1.09 a foot that's pretty rough but thanks for the heads up.

Edit: Oh thats for the 1 inch sleeve. 59 cents for the 1/8th. Would like to see how this compares to MDPC sleeve.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

That sleeving from Frozen looks pretty nice, wonder how it stacks up to MDPC :O


----------



## PapaSmurf

I'll probably be ordering some of it tomorrow since I can't find anyone with a few feet of MDPC green or yellow left over. One person is sending about a foot and a half of yellow MDPC, but that's it. I should be able to compare the two next week sometime and will post back with the results.


----------



## pjstp20

Is my math/conversion rates off or is the FrozenCPU stuff still more expensive than MDPC-X even with overseas shipping added to the equation? I mean a lot of this depends on the quantity you buy but based on 200 feet, which is about what you'd need to comfortably sleeve a large PSU, MDPC-X is cheaper.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Either your math is wrong or Frozen is ripping people off, 60m sleeving/6m heatshrink will only run you about $80-85 from MDPC

Whereas Frozen should run $200+ if they actually do charge $1 per foot.


----------



## pjstp20

FrozenCPU charges .59 cents for the 1/8th sleeve but it is still more expensive than MDPC by quite a bit.

200 ft sleeve + 20 ft shrink = 146.96 at FrozenCPU (shipping included)
60 m sleeve + 6 m shrink = 96.84 at MDPC (shipping included)

The FrozenCPU stuff might be good if you only need to get a few feet but MDPC is much better in the cost/quality department for larger orders.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *papasmurf*


i'll probably be ordered some of it tomorrow since i can't find anyone with a few feet of mdpc green or yellow left over. One person is sending about a foot and a half of yellow mdpc, but that's it. I should be able to compare the two next week sometime and will post back with the results.


ygpm


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Do you guys think it's worth sleeving my Tech Shelf?










It'd look good I think, although its a lot of work for not much profit, it's looks pretty neat as it is.


----------



## galaxyy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*


Do you guys think it's worth sleeving my Tech Shelf?

It'd look good I think, although its a lot of work










The cables are so visible, so - YES!


----------



## loop0001

been thinking more and more of sleeving the psu i just bought...
but,
with products like these, these, and these...

it is very tempting to not do so at all...go the easy route. they look fine. and the time in labor i dont loose to the cost sounds like quite the good deal.

also...if i want more than 1 color sleeved....buying 5 feet of sleeve instead of 25 or 50...is again..cheaper


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:



Originally Posted by *loop0001*


been thinking more and more of sleeving the psu i just bought...
but,
with products like these, these, and these...

it is very tempting to not do so at all...go the easy route. they look fine. and the time in labor i dont loose to the cost sounds like quite the good deal.

also...if i want more than 1 color sleeved....buying 5 feet of sleeve instead of 25 or 50...is again..cheaper












They are pretty cool, and easy, hmm.


----------



## mark_thaddeus

Only problem I have with them is my PSU has a different connector to the PSU (HX650 - 5 pin molex - flat )so i can't use them except as extensions.


----------



## loop0001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle* 









They are pretty cool, and easy, hmm.









exactly, the only real downside...is that when you hide the cords behind your mobo tray....you have alot more cables being stuffed back there...


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Some day I want to use this stuff to do some sleeving: http://www.viablue.de/com/accessoires.shtml

I think it looks absolutely gorgeous...


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Some day I want to use this stuff to do some sleeving: http://www.viablue.de/com/accessoires.shtml

I think it looks absolutely gorgeous...

the neon could look nice in an Nvidia themed rig!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
the neon could look nice in an Nvidia themed rig!

It would look perfect with my black, green and yellow DFI Lanparty board too


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
It would look perfect with my black, green and yellow DFI Lanparty board too









I want to see you do it now


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
I want to see you do it now









If I can somehow find somewhere to buy it from, I'd probably do it once Viper is done just for fun









EDIT: Would probably sleeve the tubes as opposed to the wires too.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

They have a list of available retailers here


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan* 
They have a list of available retailers here

Yeah only problem is that they don't have any resellers in New Zealand and it may be difficult for me to get it from overseas if they aren't willing to ship internationally


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pjstp20* 
Wow, $1.09 a foot that's pretty rough but thanks for the heads up.

Edit: Oh thats for the 1 inch sleeve. 59 cents for the 1/8th. Would like to see how this compares to MDPC sleeve.

I've got both, and the NZXT stuff is definitely tight and hard to compete with.

MDPC is better though. Especially when it comes to deep contrasts like yellow wire & grey sleeving.


----------



## [nK]Sharp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shane1244* 
If you want, you can wait for me to get it, and I'll tell you how it is. I live in Canada and should be getting it in a week or so.

Ya, should be placing an order soon so would like to see how well that stuff looks. Looking at getting probably 200 ft of red and black cable sleeving and then 20ft of the heatshrink.

Don't have a heatgun so hopefully I don't mess up using a lighter


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[nK]Sharp* 
Ya, should be placing an order soon so would like to see how well that stuff looks. Looking at getting probably 200 ft of red and black cable sleeving and then 20ft of the heatshrink.

Don't have a heatgun so hopefully I don't mess up using a lighter









I use a lighter too and it seems to be okay







Just don't hold it too long over one spot and you won't burn it.


----------



## geort45

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Some day I want to use this stuff to do some sleeving: http://www.viablue.de/com/accessoires.shtml

I think it looks absolutely gorgeous...

Damn, I need some of those viablue splitters for my mod... do u know where to buy them (or similar splitters) that ships int'l







?

Thx!


----------



## PapaSmurf

See post 2178 for a link to their resellers.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
I use a lighter too and it seems to be okay







Just don't hold it too long over one spot and you won't burn it.

Lighters work great, that's what I use.


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
See post 2178 for a link to their resellers.











Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Lighters work great, that's what I use.









I think I'm just gonna go with a blow dryer. I always manage to screw things up when fire gets involved









I will *hopefully* be putting in my order on Thursday evening/Friday evening of this upcoming week here








Hopefully I can get $120 by then. Homecoming makes me poor.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 









I think I'm just gonna go with a blow dryer. I always manage to screw things up when fire gets involved









I will *hopefully* be putting in my order on Thursday evening/Friday evening of this upcoming week here








Hopefully I can get $120 by then. Homecoming makes me poor.

Thing with the lighter is you can get it close, but for a very short time. If you feel more comfortable with the blow dryer then go for it, but it was taking too long with the blow dryer for me.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Takes way too long with a blow dryer, keep a lighter about a good 2 inches away for about 3 seconds, go to the other side, keep switching about.


----------



## SimpleTech

Talk about fast shipping.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Talk about fast shipping.


















Not faiirrr! I ordered before you! lol

Looks good! Now get to work!


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Is that MDPC to whoever posted the pic?


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan* 
Is that MDPC to whoever posted the pic?

It's TechFlex CleanCut.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shane1244* 
Not faiirrr! I ordered before you! lol

Looks good! Now get to work!



















Don't worry, I was practicing a bit on a crappy 250W PSU on how to carefully remove the ATX pins. Not to terribly hard with staples. I tried using sowing needles but kept pricking myself.

*Slightly off topic: If this were next Friday, it would have been impossible to do anything. I found out that I have to get my wisdom teeth pulled. Fantastic!


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 









Don't worry, I was practicing a bit on a crappy 250W PSU on how to carefully remove the ATX pins. Not to terribly hard with staples. I tried using sowing needles but kept pricking myself.

*Slightly off topic: If this were next Friday, it would have been impossible to do anything. I found out that I have to get my wisdom teeth pulled. Fantastic!









Hands != Mouth

Why can't you work without your mouth?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shane1244* 
Hands != Mouth

Why can't you work without your mouth?









lol, sometimes having a migraine impairs your ability to think.


----------



## loop0001

migraine?? silly man.. i got my wisdom teeth out and for 3 days on percocet and horse pill ibprofen.. practically felt high tho a bit nauseous


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
lol, sometimes having a migraine impairs your ability to think.









a true nerd will go through the pain to sleeve


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Kinda hard to sleeve when your thumb is half burned off due to the lighter


----------



## loop0001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan* 
Kinda hard to sleeve when your thumb is half burned off due to the lighter









lol butane? those are just clicky clicky and no burny.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Nope BIC lighter actually, they had less of an intense flame, but they still had a good spread of heat.

I got to the point where I burnt part of a SATA connector and some heatshrink eventually broke due to the heat from a butane lighter.


----------



## loop0001

hmm...thats no good..,


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Yeah, gonna start sleeving again tomorrow, my thumbs have healed up from last week.


----------



## loop0001

lol this talk of hurt thumbs is taking away from my eagerness to resleeve my psu...


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Oh no ha, what I did was that I would angle the lighter and that would put the flame onto the silver wheel.

So when I put my thumb back to light it up I got a major burn mark, hurt like hell.


----------



## loop0001

yeah searing flesh has some pain involved..yeesh


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Don't worry, so long as you watch where the flame is going it should be a problem, maybe let the wheel cool off every time.

To measure the strength of the lighter just light it up and put your hand above the flame and get to a point where it's warm but doesn't hurt instantly.

That's how far away you should keep the flame from the heatshrink and only keep it there for a few seconds or else either the sleeving will melt, heatshrink, or the cable underneath.


----------



## loop0001

good tip, thanks man. ill def post pics of my work when i have it all done.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Yup, it's frustrating at first, but once you get the hang of measuring perfectly on both heatshrink/sleeving it's a cakewalk.


----------



## [seandotcom]

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r* 
Correct - that is what you will use to remove wires from the 24pin, 8pin, 6+2pin, 6pin, etc... However it will not remove the contacts in 4pin auxiliary connectors.



























holy crap. this is exactly what i want my cables to look like. it seems like so much work, but i think i'm gonna do it.


----------



## SimpleTech

Didn't realize how pain in the ass my XFX power supply was going to be. Normally, you have 23 wires to a ATX cable - mine had 5 with more than one cable attached. So it didn't turn out as neat as my other PSU cables.



















Here are some comparisons between stock and 'Clean Cut'.


----------



## NYM

for my X650


----------



## Chicken Patty

^^ got a shot of the whole extension? Curious to see how it looks altogether. It has an interesting combination of colors.


----------



## SimpleTech

I did a much better job on my 24-pin ATX extension cable. Took a while too.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Wow that looks great! You did a fantastic job of keeping the heatshrink lined up. Your hard work definitely paid off


----------



## SimpleTech

Thanks spider.

I think that once I use up the rest of this stuff, I will get some MDPC-X and use that on my Corsair HX850.


----------



## mitchbowman

there all looking good


----------



## Nexgen

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
a true nerd will go through the pain to sleeve


----------



## bfeng91

Quick question: when sleeving the PCI cables, the HX850 has 4+2 pins. Since I'll never use the +2 pins, can I just cut them off to make sleeving easeir?


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bfeng91* 
Quick question: when sleeving the PCI cables, the HX850 has 4+2 pins. Since I'll never use the +2 pins, can I just cut them off to make sleeving easeir?









yes


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

With the HX850 if you're using the modular 6+2 cables you can remove them completely without cutting the cable. But the main 6+2 cables you'll have to either cut them or just hide them.


----------



## noob.deagle

well i took a while off modding my pc but now i have a new PSU so i need to sleeve this one coupled with my new GTX470 im thinking of some kind of black + green nvidia styled color schemes (after all there are lots of black and reds for ATI







)

does anyone know of any Black+Green combos ? and always forum and 'pro sleevers' opinions on the color scheme always welcome









ill probably order sometime this month but wont really have time till after the uni semester to do it







guess my summer break will be full cause i need to paint the inside of my haf932 also


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *noob.deagle* 
well i took a while off modding my pc but now i have a new PSU so i need to sleeve this one coupled with my new GTX470 im thinking of some kind of black + green nvidia styled color schemes (after all there are lots of black and reds for ATI







)

does anyone know of any Black+Green combos ? and always forum and 'pro sleevers' opinions on the color scheme always welcome









ill probably order sometime this month but wont really have time till after the uni semester to do it







guess my summer break will be full cause i need to paint the inside of my haf932 also









Not sure what you mean by Black+Green combos?


----------



## noob.deagle

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Not sure what you mean by Black+Green combos?

sleeving color combination, ie has any one previously used these two colors together or is it a good combination like is the mdpc green too neon in real life just overall impressions of the colors and them together that is all


----------



## PapaSmurf

I've seen numerous black and green combos in this thread.


----------



## noob.deagle

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


I've seen numerous black and green combos in this thread.


lol yeah well the thread is over 200+ pages so it takes a while to sift through i just assumed people would want to show off









im working backwards i just went to the start first page lol a photo with black and green, looks alright i guess ill order soon


----------



## oliverw92

Alternate black and green MDPC sleeving evenly, and use all black heatshrink (no green). That looks REALLY good - Martin has done that.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

It does indeed look good. The MDPC green does look fairly neon under normal light but once you actually get it into the computer where it's a lot darker, it looks great. I love it









Grey and green also looks stunning- Martin did that too









EDIT: Martin being Crys1s_Gam3r in case you didn't already know


----------



## SimpleTech

Has anyone ordered 1/4" Clean Cut before, not necessarily from Furryletters?

The stuff I got from him is not Clean Cut, the weaving pattern and quality is the same that came in a cheap sleeve kit that I bought at Performance-PCs a year back. I had bought some 1/4" a year or so ago at Sidewinder Computers as well as 1/8". The 1/8" matched perfectly to that of the 1/8" Clean Cut I bought from Furry but the 1/4" was much lesser quality.

Might see if I can get a refund on this because it's definitely not what I was expecting.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Has anyone ordered 1/4" Clean Cut before, not necessarily from Furryletters?

The stuff I got from him is not Clean Cut, the weaving pattern and quality is the same that came in a cheap sleeve kit that I bought at Performance-PCs a year back. I had bought some 1/4" a year or so ago at Sidewinder Computers as well as 1/8". The 1/8" matched perfectly to that of the 1/8" Clean Cut I bought from Furry but the 1/4" was much lesser quality.

Might see if I can get a refund on this because it's definitely not what I was expecting.


i orderd it for my little brothers build... plavalaguna, i used it for the sata's... ummm i compared the two, and i definetly like mdpc better, its a lot smoother, but the furryletters did the job... check out my plava build and you can see the 1/4 inch sleeving on the sata cables.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Alternate black and green MDPC sleeving evenly, and use all black heatshrink (no green). That looks REALLY good - Martin has done that.

What looks better is like only 3 or 4 green sleeved wires on either side of the 24 pin.


----------



## NYM

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


^^ got a shot of the whole extension? Curious to see how it looks altogether. It has an interesting combination of colors.












Currently in my case


----------



## Chicken Patty

^ Looks great dude


----------



## Dilyn

Did the Euro-Dollar exchange change at all in the past couple months?
This was only supposed to cost $121. Not $140








I'm ten bucks short now. So I have to wait until FRIDAY to place my order.

Darn you currencies!


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
Did the Euro-Dollar exchange change at all in the past couple months?
This was only supposed to cost $121. Not $140








I'm ten bucks short now. So I have to wait until FRIDAY to place my order.

Darn you currencies!

what all you get for that price?


----------



## Dilyn

I just noticed the pin remover tool.
How useful is that?


----------



## fshizl

That's beautifully useful.


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
That's beautifully useful.

Darnet









Oh well. Two days of waiting ain't too bad, when you think about the two months I've been waiting to actually buy the stuff


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
Darnet









Oh well. Two days of waiting ain't too bad, when you think about the two months I've been waiting to actually buy the stuff


----------



## Dilyn

Do want


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
Do want


----------



## Yogi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
Did the Euro-Dollar exchange change at all in the past couple months?
This was only supposed to cost $121. Not $140








I'm ten bucks short now. So I have to wait until FRIDAY to place my order.

Darn you currencies!

yup


----------



## Copenhagen69

i miss the days when the euro was crap haha









...compared to the US dollar


----------



## NYM




----------



## fl0w3n

What are you guys using to shrink your heat wrap? My lighter turns my red wrap blackish


----------



## b0klau

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OGHerijuana*


What are you guys using to shrink your heat wrap? My lighter turns my red wrap blackish










Heatgun


----------



## NYM

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OGHerijuana*


What are you guys using to shrink your heat wrap? My lighter turns my red wrap blackish










My Philips hairdryer, 3 speed/3 temperature settings


----------



## fshizl

I use my torch lighters. They are ronson torch lighters. Like 4-5 bucks.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Butane lighter here


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


butane lighter here










+1


----------



## oliverw92

Hot air gun


----------



## Shane1244

Blow torch on low.


----------



## fl0w3n

Hmm, seems I just need to perfect my technique then haha. I am going to try with a hair dryer as well. I thought about it, but kinda discarded it I don't know why.

Sleeving my system was one of the only things holding me back from putting it in my brand new case...and that has been holding me back for almost 6 months now...and there is a lot of dust in that case now lol.


----------



## Dilyn

Alright well, I've gotten around $20 extra in birthday money, so I will be able to afford all of my order









Now to straighten out my bank account, transfer some money around, and make the purchase


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Yay








(Birthday money is the best!)


----------



## Dilyn

Aaawwww yeaaaah


----------



## Blindsay

i think im going to put together an order from mdpc-x myself. As of now im planning on getting the corsair AX850 which is fully modular so that should help a bit. I will pratice alot before i attempt the real thing cause it will piss me off to no end if it comes out uneven. Gonna do red/black mixture in my future 800d lol.

Only thing im not looking foward to is removing the pins, i tested all the home made solutions on a few extra cables i had and it went horribly so i think ill bite the bullet and try one of the tools


----------



## mitchbowman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


yay :d (labor free money is the best!)


fixed*


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Yay







(Birthday money is the best!)


I remember when buying something expensive that you saved up for forever ment something. Now, I make more in one week then I've had in my first like 14 years of exsistance.


----------



## loop0001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shane1244* 
I remember when buying something expensive that you saved up for forever ment something. Now, I make more in one week then I've had in my first like 14 years of exsistance.

lol THIS, for the first time in my life i have a salary and way to much extra money..


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shane1244* 
I remember when buying something expensive that you saved up for forever ment something. Now, I make more in one week then I've had in my first like 14 years of exsistance.

This makes me desire employment more and more


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shane1244* 
I remember when buying something expensive that you saved up for forever ment something. Now, I make more in one week then I've had in my first like 14 years of exsistance.

heh, agreed. It's depressing, really.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
This makes me desire employment more and more
















Dilyn, enjoy being a kid while you still can. You'll be an adult with all of the adult responsibilities soon enough.

And no offense about the kid thing. You seem to be a lot more mature than most of people your age I run across.


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
Dilyn, enjoy being a kid while you still can. You'll be an adult with all of the adult responsibilities soon enough.

And no offense about the kid thing. You seem to be a lot more mature than most of people your age I run across.










Thanks mate.

I would like kid level responsibilities with an adult sized salary please


----------



## PapaSmurf

Wouldn't we all.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


Originally Posted by *papasmurf* 
wouldn't we all.

+1


----------



## Chicken Patty

Look what I just received from a friend of mine, for free!







Time to get busy!

MDPC-X Sleeving.


----------



## fshizl

nice, congrats the colors look good


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
nice, congrats the colors look good









Thanks. I'll make sure to take pics once I get going with some sleeving.


----------



## Dilyn

Oh hey guys...










What's up?


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dilyn*


Oh hey guys...










What's up?


grats!


----------



## Chicken Patty

bought some sleeving from MDPC-X?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I agree with PapaSmurf Dilyn







Enjoy your freedom whilst you still can. I'm 19 now and have gone from almost no responsibilities to having quite a lot now thanks to the curve balls that life can throw. I may have a job and be studying towards my degree, but I am DEFINITELY 100% envious of you!


----------



## oliverw92

Chicken Patty, that amount of small sleeve won't get you very far, just so you know


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Chicken Patty, that amount of small sleeve won't get you very far, just so you know









I'm only doing the front panel connectors and some of my NZXT extensions. I'm not going to be sleeving the whole PSU or nothing like that. That should be enough heh? Thanks.


----------



## oliverw92

Ok


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Ok









Does that look like it's enough?


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
Oh hey guys...










What's up?

Expensive! oh my!

Can't wait for you to get it!


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
grats!









Thanks mate









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shane1244* 
Expensive! oh my!

Can't wait for you to get it!









Very expensive








But you pay for quality.









I am so excited to get to work. I'm glad this PSU is modular. I get to test it out some extra cables before I actually start to get to the real parts.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
I agree with PapaSmurf Dilyn







Enjoy your freedom whilst you still can. I'm 19 now and have gone from almost no responsibilities to having quite a lot now thanks to the curve balls that life can throw. I may have a job and be studying towards my degree, but I am DEFINITELY 100% envious of you!


















I just can't wait to leave my house. It's annoying to deal with.
But I will miss the lack of real responsibilities, that's for sure.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

I hate how Nils charges 20+ Euros for the pin remover, but it's a quality one and if you're careful with the thing it'll last for a while.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan* 
I hate how Nils charges 20+ Euros for the pin remover, but it's a quality one and if you're careful with the thing it'll last for a while.

Get the one from performance PC's, It's a solid slug of steel, and the tips are bendy, so they never break!


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shane1244* 
Get the one from performance PC's, It's a solid slug of steel, and the tips are bendy, so they never break!









If this one breaks *knock on wood* I'll get one from them.

It's nice though, he even wrote my name on it haha.


----------



## Shane1244

Hahah thye they are pretty good. I'm not sure what kind of metal they use, if it's bedy or not.. ?O_O

I'm talking about this one btw!








http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=2077


----------



## mitchbowman

staples have always worked for me


----------



## oliverw92

No pin remover should break really. If you manage to break even the cheapest ones (like the sunbeam ones) then you are using it wrong. You should NEVER put pressure on the tool - there is no need.


----------



## Dilyn

Status of order: Shipped.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
No pin remover should break really. If you manage to break even the cheapest ones (like the sunbeam ones) then you are using it wrong. You should NEVER put pressure on the tool - there is no need.

That is one of, if not the most intelligent post in this entire thread.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
That is one of, if not the most intelligent post in this entire thread.

But it actually is true, if you are putting force to the point of breaking it then you are doing something wrong. That applies to a lot of things as well!


----------



## loop0001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
But it actually is true, if you are putting force to the point of breaking it then you are doing something wrong. That applies to a lot of things as well!

he was agreeing with you


----------



## Mikecdm

Any word on the 3:1 heatshrink that furryletters sells? I read somewhere in this thread and that it's a little thick. That it may not fit well inside the connectors with the sleeving. I will hopefully be ordering some sleeving tomorrow. Was thinking about 200ft of 1/8" and 20ft of 3/16" heatshrink. I also wanted to do some sata cables, but not sure if I want to.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *loop0001*


he was agreeing with you










I know, I was just adding something to it.


----------



## loop0001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


I know, I was just adding something to it.










ooohh. well i guess i missed ur english then...my bad


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *loop0001* 
ooohh. well i guess i missed ur english then...my bad

Maybe I mis wrote it, no biggie bro.


----------



## godofdeath

what would go better with the purple sleeving from nils
black or white?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
what would go better with the purple sleeving from nils
black or white?

hmmm, would be interesting to see white along with the purple.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Between black and white with purple I'd say white just to contrast the darkness of purple.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Just a little sleeving to get going on it before hitting the sack. Gotta finish it up tomorrow. (heatshrink missing on the red ones)


----------



## spiderm0nkey

@Godofdeath

Due to the nature of the purple, I think that black would probably be a better suited shade to be paired with it. The sleeve has a tendency to look pink in most lighting conditions as it is. Adding white next to any colour gives the impression that the colour is lighter than it is. I'd be pretty willing to bet that the sleeve will look more pink than anything else next to white. Black generally makes colours look more saturated, which is probably going to make the purple look far richer and more delicious


----------



## godofdeath

2 whites and 1 black

well using black would be a lot less work for me lol since the cables are half blacked out already ill keep thinking


----------



## fl0w3n

Ok so I am finally biting the bullet and temporarily taken down my system so I can sleeve and then put everything in the case I've had sitting here for months.

Wound up having to take the psu appart and break the warranty (bummer) to be able to get my sleeve/shrink wrap far enough.

Still having problems with shrink wrap, I tried a hair dryer but it was to slow and not hot enough and turned my room into a sauna.
I went back to butane lighter and still seemed to have issues where the wrap isn't sticking to the wire well enough. It came offf in the ten minutes I spent working on the other end. I don't want it comming off while in the case.

I am going to go buy a butane lighter now, hopefully I have better luck...quite aggrivating.

Any tips? This was 1 cord and 15 min...and I still didn't get it.


----------



## loop0001

i remember i sleeved once and the heatshrink was to big to start with. when i shrunk it down it was never snug enough to hold onto the sleeve...that may be one issue

. right now im sleeving my psu with 1/8" sleeve and the heatshrink is 3:1 and 3/16" it just barely slides along the outside of the sleeving..

was going to use lighters, but found a great deal at lowe's for a heat gun. very happy!!
takes a couple minutes on each shrink and ive had perfect seals already.

anywho. gj on voiding the warranty lol and gl with the rest of the psu....takes a long time i know...soooooooooo long


----------



## PapaSmurf

I finally received a sample of the MDPC sleeve that everyone is raving about and I see why. It's a ton better than the PET sleeve and noticeably better than the High Density Kobra sleeve from FrozenCPU. The only problem is for someone like me who isn't going to sleeve the psu and only needs 10 feet or so to sleeve their fans. It just isn't financially feasible to meet the minimum order quantity that Nil's has to get it and with one exception, it's been impossible to get any from anyone who has any left over.


----------



## fl0w3n

Man wth haha this is already my 2nd time ordering sleeving supplies, first time I got 1/8" shrink, obviously to small, now I got what looks like 7/16...

This sucks :/


----------



## loop0001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *OGHerijuana* 
Man wth haha this is already my 2nd time ordering sleeving supplies, first time I got 1/8" shrink, obviously to small, now I got what looks like 7/16...
This sucks :/

bother... sorry man..


----------



## Chicken Patty

shot of my front panel connectors finished up and routed







MDPC-X Sleeving


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


I finally received a sample of the MDPC sleeve that everyone is raving about and I see why. It's a ton better than the PET sleeve and noticeably better than the High Density Kobra sleeve from FrozenCPU. The only problem is for someone like me who isn't going to sleeve the psu and only needs 10 feet or so to sleeve their fans. It just isn't financially feasible to meet the minimum order quantity that Nil's has to get it and with one exception, it's been impossible to get any from anyone who has any left over.


ARGH! I knew there was something I'd forgotten to do!!!







I'm so crap at remembering to do things....







Sorry about that! Will get onto it right away.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Don't worry. It isn't that urgent. My planned upgrade is imploding anyway.


----------



## da tick 07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
I finally received a sample of the MDPC sleeve that everyone is raving about and I see why. It's a ton better than the PET sleeve and noticeably better than the High Density Kobra sleeve from FrozenCPU. The only problem is for someone like me who isn't going to sleeve the psu and only needs 10 feet or so to sleeve their fans. It just isn't financially feasible to meet the minimum order quantity that Nil's has to get it and with one exception, it's been impossible to get any from anyone who has any left over.

What color are you looking for? I'm pretty sure I have some white and green


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *da tick 07* 
What color are you looking for? I'm pretty sure I have some white and green

I'm looking for some Yellow. I only need a few feet.


----------



## ninjabelly

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
Don't worry. It isn't that urgent. My planned upgrade is imploding anyway.

I'm putting in another MDPC order this week, if you let me know I can add it on.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ninjabelly* 
I'm putting in another MDPC order this week, if you let me know I can add it on.

I appreciate the offer, but I only need about 2 or 3 meters (5 to 10 feet). I would never use all of the 10 meters and it doesn't look like the Yellow is that popular so I would be stuck with 7 or 8 meters that would never be used.


----------



## ninjabelly

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
I appreciate the offer, but I only need about 2 or 3 meters (5 to 10 feet). I would never use all of the 10 meters and it doesn't look like the Yellow is that popular so I would be stuck with 7 or 8 meters that would never be used.

I hear ya. I'll let you know if I ever decide to use Yellow on a build in the near future.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Thanks. I appreciate that.


----------



## godofdeath

i think ill go with white and purple, i will end up buying white for my main rig, so i guess i will just go white purple

where can i get some good purple heatshrink?


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


I appreciate the offer, but I only need about 2 or 3 meters (5 to 10 feet). I would never use all of the 10 meters and it doesn't look like the Yellow is that popular so I would be stuck with 7 or 8 meters that would never be used.


Can you do orange instead of yellow? I've got some for you if you can


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


Can you do orange instead of yellow? I've got some for you if you can










PM sent. Not sure how the orange will fit in with what I have now, but if nothing else it will have a 60's tie died t-shirt look. Just no pink. I have to draw the line somewhere.


----------



## [seandotcom]

just ordered some 60 meters (20 meters red, 20 meters white, 20 meters black) of MDPC-X sleeving. it was kind of impulsive. what did i get myself into?


----------



## oliverw92

Did you order heatshrink too?


----------



## [seandotcom]

yeah i ordered 5 meters of black heatshrink. is that enough?
i also ordered that pin removing tool.


----------



## oliverw92

I think that would be enough yeah


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[seandotcom]* 
just ordered some 60 meters (20 meters red, 20 meters white, 20 meters black) of MDCP-X sleeving. it was kind of impulsive. what did i get myself into?

Something very exciting (and addictive) is what you've got yourself into!







Congrats on the purchase!


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[seandotcom]* 
just ordered some 60 meters (20 meters red, 20 meters white, 20 meters black) of MDCP-X sleeving. it was kind of impulsive. what did i get myself into?

Get us some pics when you receive it heh?


----------



## [seandotcom]

for sure I will. I'm nervous my cables aren't going to like so amazingly sexy like some of the ones in this thread. Is there a good way to "practice" sleeving? Maybe like sleeving a cable I don't use first?


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[seandotcom]*


for sure I will. I'm nervous my cables aren't going to like so amazingly sexy like some of the ones in this thread. Is there a good way to "practice" sleeving? Maybe like sleeving a cable I don't use first?


This would be where buying some extra sleeving/heatshrink, having a modular or PSU (or better yet) a spare PSU would come in handy.
Practice makes perfect.


----------



## [seandotcom]

alrighty then. i'll be sure to post updates in this thread. when i get a new case, i'm going to resleeve my PSU and put together my first loop at the same time. scary stuff!


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[seandotcom]*


for sure I will. I'm nervous my cables aren't going to like so amazingly sexy like some of the ones in this thread. Is there a good way to "practice" sleeving? Maybe like sleeving a cable I don't use first?


My first sleeving experience I bought a kit from Performance PC's. it's cheap and you can sleeve a lot of things with it. It was good to practice on. you can try that.


----------



## [seandotcom]

i just dismantled a 6pin connector using staples. i never really understood how i was going to be able to remove the pins, the guides never really made too much sense to me. but i get it now. and that's 1/3rd the battle, right?


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[seandotcom]*


i just dismantled a 6pin connector using staples. i never really understood how i was going to be able to remove the pins, the guides never really made too much sense to me. but i get it now. and that's 1/3rd the battle, right?


that's about 1/2 the battle! Then 1/4 is money, 1/8 is STRETCHING YOUR SLEEVE! 1/16 is heatshrink skill and 1/16 is art









I do enjoy using staples though, if not just knowing that they're 100% free.


----------



## [seandotcom]

once i sleeve this PSU, does it mean once I get another PSU, i'll have to do it all over again?

edit: let me rephrase. obviously i'll have to sleeve the new PSU again, but will i have to buy all new sleeving? or can i reuse the sleeving? i'm sure i'll need new heatshrink.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[seandotcom]*


once i sleeve this PSU, does it mean once I get another PSU, i'll have to do it all over again?


yes! (unless you wanted to remove and resolder all the wires to the new PSU) But at least you started off with a good PSU so hopefully you won't have to replace it any time soon


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[seandotcom]*


once i sleeve this PSU, does it mean once I get another PSU, i'll have to do it all over again?

edit: let me rephrase. obviously i'll have to sleeve the new PSU again, but will i have to buy all new sleeving? or can i reuse the sleeving? i'm sure i'll need new heatshrink.


You MIGHT be able to get the old sleeve off, but unless the new psu has wires the same length or shorter that won't really matter anyway as they won't fit the new psu.


----------



## [seandotcom]

ahhh damn. didn't think about the lengths. oh well, hopefully i won't need a bigger PSU for a while.


----------



## PapaSmurf

That's one of the reasons why I don't single sleeve a PSU.


----------



## KoolGuy

Ok i got a question!

I need to sleeve 6 wires all in 1 sleeve,.

What size sleeve do i need?

3/8 or 1/2?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KoolGuy* 
Ok i got a question!

I need to sleeve 6 wires all in 1 sleeve,.

What size sleeve do i need?

3/8 or 1/2?

What wire gauge are you using?


----------



## KoolGuy

18


----------



## loop0001

question.. about these sata connectors i know that they have the metal part inside that cut thru the plastic surrounding the cord to connect to the metal so power will go to the hd or dvd drive.

will those metal "teeth" as it were be able to go thru heatshrink as well?


----------



## PapaSmurf

They never have for me.


----------



## oliverw92

They normally barely go through 18AWG cable for me, let alone heatshrink as well.


----------



## loop0001

kk thanks


----------



## godofdeath

takes a while to shove them in there with just wires, im pretty sure itll take forever to get both wire and heatshrink


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KoolGuy* 
Ok i got a question!

I need to sleeve 6 wires all in 1 sleeve,.

What size sleeve do i need?

3/8 or 1/2?

The smaller of the two.


----------



## Chicken Patty

I'd say 3/8th


----------



## Shane1244

3/8, providing it's it's got a decent size when it's expanded.


----------



## Lutro0

Here is an example (I said I would post a long time ago lol) of hairyalphabets =P Clean Cut and TechFlex 3/16 3:1 Heatshrink.


----------



## Chicken Patty

That looks great!


----------



## Mr.Pie

hi guys
I found some sleeving here: http://fengyun7.taobao.com/

just wondering, do I get the 3mm or 4mm cable sleeving?

thanks all


----------



## oliverw92

I'd personally get a sample of each first.

That company annoys me though - they claim that it is MDPC sleeving when it really isn't.


----------



## Mr.Pie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


I'd personally get a sample of each first.

That company annoys me though - they claim that it is MDPC sleeving when it really isn't.


the one I linked?
should I buy direct from MDPC instead?


----------



## fshizl

yes


----------



## oliverw92

No matter what that website says it will not be real mdpc sleeving, it will be a cheap Chinese knock-off (no offence to Chinese people). If you want the real deal then mdpc is what you want.


----------



## Mr.Pie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


No matter what that website says it will not be real mdpc sleeving, it will be a cheap Chinese knock-off (no offence to Chinese people). If you want the real deal then mdpc is what you want.


thats what I thought








none taken mate









I'll order direct from MDPC then


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
No matter what that website says it will not be real mdpc sleeving, it will be a cheap Chinese knock-off (no offence to Chinese people). If you want the real deal then mdpc is what you want.


----------



## PapaSmurf

How about the fact that Nils himself has said so. He is the ONLY source for that sleeve.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
How about the fact that Nils himself has said so. He is the ONLY source for that sleeve.

Nuff said.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
How about the fact that Nils himself has said so. He is the ONLY source for that sleeve.

Unless they're trying to resell it without his permission of course.


----------



## Messenjah

Bought 200ft 1/8 Clean Cut and 15ft 3/16 Heatshink from FurryLetters. First time doing this so its not perfect but still looks pretty good. I am not sure what to do with the section between the sata power connecters. Might paint the wires black there instead of sleeving that small section. Once I get my pc back together I will update my work log with more pics. I have all the web page files saved on it to edit.

I still have some more to do but this is what I have done so far.

-Cpu Power
-Pci-e
-Pci-e
-Sata Power
-24 pin


----------



## Shane1244

Whats the deal with the heatshrink about 4 inches up from the 24 pin connector?


----------



## Messenjah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


Whats the deal with the heatshrink about 4 inches up from the 24 pin connector?


It is where there are are 2 wires in one slot. I cut it at the metal connector and soldered it to the wire lower down this way the heat shrinked connector slides in without any trouble and also the sleeving turns out looking better. It is basically a y splitter.


----------



## MijnWraak

Added FAQ, will think of more later and update the ones already there. (feel free to PM me a list with or without suggested answers)

Will add more info on Mod/Smart Kobra from FrozenCPU. Gonna clean up the OP a bit as well. Looks too cluttered.


----------



## SimpleTech

Does anyone know how to remove the pins from a 3-pin male header?

I just bought this splitter and I am trying to figure out to how to get the pins out of the four male connectors.


----------



## Kaze105

In some pictures, the sleeving for the 24 pin connector is very straight. How do you guys get it straight as when I sleeved my 24 pin connector, it didnt look as good with the wires kinda tangled together.


----------



## godofdeath

faq should include the length of the heatshrink so that it will look like the one crysis does


----------



## mastical

Use zip ties to train the cables.


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shane1244* 









What do you want proof of...?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
What do you want proof of...?

That the cables are not really MDPC Sleeving.

Though it's simple, as they could just PM Nills, and he could confirm it.

But MDPC's site states that they're the only seller of their sleeving.


----------



## loop0001

i freaking hate these sata connectors




































cant shove the wire down into them.. the back that is supposed to hook it back up and close the whole deal wont work... ..filth foul foul filth freaking foul!!


----------



## PapaSmurf

I didn't have any problem with them. It does take some getting used to if you don't have the special punch down tool though. And the backs hook up just fine once you get the wires punched all the way down.


----------



## loop0001

special punch down tool eh? hmm...time to search the webs


----------



## Mr.Pie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


That the cables are not really MDPC Sleeving.

Though it's simple, as they could just PM Nills, and he could confirm it.

But MDPC's site states that they're the only seller of their sleeving.


so....how can I confirm that the chinese site that I linked is genuine (the sleeving)?

who should I PM?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mr.Pie*


so....how can I confirm that the chinese site that I linked is genuine (the sleeving)?

who should I PM?


Email Nills of MDPC or Crysis_Gamer (he posted in this thread, just look a page or two back)


----------



## Copenhagen69

I am just curious ... but who makes Nills' sleeving? like what company or does he make it himself?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


I am just curious ... but who makes Nills' sleeving? like what company or does he make it himself?


Nills owns the company that makes the sleeving & heatshrink.

You can read about MDPC & Nills on their about page
http://en.mdpc-x.com/about.htm


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Nills owns the company that makes the sleeving & heatshrink.

You can read about MDPC & Nills on their about page
http://en.mdpc-x.com/about.htm



how did i miss that page lol


----------



## loop0001

almost done sleeving my psu!! took way longer cause i delayed...but oh well lol i like it!!
it isnt as perfect as others have done, but far better than stock


----------



## SimpleTech

Anyone?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Does anyone know how to remove the pins from a 3-pin male header?

I just bought this splitter and I am trying to figure out to how to get the pins out of the four male connectors.










*Off topic* I got all of my wisdom teeth removed yesterday, feeling great.


----------



## fshizl

let me see if i can find one laying around... real quick and ill try taking it apart

edit: mine are different, they just slide out theres actually nothing holding them down..


----------



## SimpleTech

Thanks for the help fshizl.

I found out through experimenting with some spare cables (with the same male connector). This is what the pin looks like after taking it out:










A paper clip or staple fits in inside the connector and pushes that flap down. After removing the pin, push the flap back up.


----------



## digital_steve

Hey guys,
I'll be embarking on some sleeving soon (big thanks to Nils!)
I just wanted to know if any of you are making your own custom length cables (sata power, sata etc) and if so, how?
If i could manage to get cables in the lengths i wanted them, the flow would be so much better!

Also, one more thing, do you sleeve one cable of the 24pin at a time so as not to mix anything up?


----------



## loop0001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
Hey guys,
I'll be embarking on some sleeving soon (big thanks to Nils!)
I just wanted to know if any of you are making your own custom length cables (sata power, sata etc) and if so, how?
If i could manage to get cables in the lengths i wanted them, the flow would be so much better!

Also, one more thing, do you sleeve one cable of the 24pin at a time so as not to mix anything up?

im not sure on sata cables.. but i know all the power cable you can lengthen or shorten real easy...just measure, snip, strip a bit of the wire, twist them together, then solder them together, heat shrink over, and you're set.
(note that is a very simplified explanation)
guys do it all the time. and once i figure out soldering i will definitely do it for cable perfection









as for the 24 pin.. i took pictures of each side of the whole connectore with a piece of paper between the rows to remember. then i made a small cardboard deal (basically punched 2 rows of 12 through it) as a kind of stencil deal so i knew exactly where the cords went.

that way i sleeved each, then put them all into the connecter..

anywho, good luck sir!!


----------



## digital_steve

Thanks... have some rep!


----------



## DTR00

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


Hey guys,
I'll be embarking on some sleeving soon (big thanks to Nils!)
I just wanted to know if any of you are making your own custom length cables (sata power, sata etc) and if so, how?
If i could manage to get cables in the lengths i wanted them, the flow would be so much better!

Also, one more thing, do you sleeve one cable of the 24pin at a time so as not to mix anything up?


Ya, you can make your own Sata cables....Nils has the 'blanks' for the actual sata connectors http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-cable-asse...or-through.htm

BTW, he is *great* to deal with.

Tip - get the crimper....you will greatly benefit if you want to make custom lenght power cables (don't forget the pins as well).


----------



## digital_steve

Cheers mate
Yeah i have dealt with Nils a couple of times now... the crimper is on its way actually!
Good bloke = Nils


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DTR00*


Ya, you can make your own Sata cables....Nils has the 'blanks' for the actual sata connectors http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-cable-asse...or-through.htm

BTW, he is *great* to deal with.

Tip - get the crimper....you will greatly benefit if you want to make custom lenght power cables (don't forget the pins as well).


Those are just the SATA power ends for PSUs. You can get those from a number of sources besides Nils that are just as good. He doesn't sell SATA Data ends so making SATA cables isn't going to be that easy.


----------



## Mr.Pie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


Cheers mate
Yeah i have dealt with Nils a couple of times now... the crimper is on its way actually!
Good bloke = Nils


I agee...Nils is one





















dude


----------



## Dilyn

Guys...


----------



## Mr.Pie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
Guys...


















Nils strikes again


----------



## [seandotcom]

how long does Nils normally take to send sleeving out? i ordered 2 weeks ago and it hasn't even been shipped as far as i know.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Dilyn ordered his about 2 weeks ago IINM and I'm guessing that it showed up today.


----------



## [seandotcom]

hm, i just checked my order status and i guess it actually had shipped. i just didn't know, i thought i'd get an email or something.

so i suppose my sleeving will come in soon?!


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[seandotcom]* 
so i suppose my sleeving will come in soon?!

Yep... you're safe as houses with Nils


----------



## [seandotcom]

i am very excited. i just need a new PSU to sleeve. i'd like to get me a PSU that will last me well into the future (aka AX1200 aha).


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
Dilyn ordered his about 2 weeks ago IINM and I'm guessing that it showed up today.

Ordered on the eighth, got a letter from USPS today when I got home from school telling me to come get it. Since I had the car, I went ahead and picked it up








But yeah. Took a while to get here, but the sleeve looks great. My web cam does not do it justice


----------



## D0U8L3M

anyone here try the kobra HD sleeving from frozencpu yet its apparently supposed to be just as good as mdxpc


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *D0U8L3M* 
anyone here try the kobra HD sleeving from frozencpu yet its apparently supposed to be just as good as mdxpc

I think several people have confirmed it isn't really as a good as MDPC sleeving (I think Papasmurf was one?)


----------



## Dilyn

So, since I have the day off today, I was wondering how one uses this tool


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *D0U8L3M* 
anyone here try the kobra HD sleeving from frozencpu yet its apparently supposed to be just as good as mdxpc


Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
I think several people have confirmed it isn't really as a good as MDPC sleeving (I think Papasmurf was one?)

You are correct Oli. It's better than the regular PET from FurryLetters, but not nearly as dense or as expandable as the MDPC sleeve. The sleeve from KoolerTek is the same as the Kobra from FrozenPCU (from what I understand they get it from KoolerTek) and less than half the price. From KoolerTek 1/8" is $0.19 a foot while that exact same sleeve from FrozenCPU is $0.59 a foot. If all you need is a few feet of colored sleeve then the KoolerTek might be your best option due to Nils considerably higher minimum order. If you only need black, then FurryLetter's Clean Cut is a viable alternative. If you want the very best though, then MDPC is the only way to go.


----------



## Morizuno

Guys, I nee some artistic advice









Number 1) What pattern should I use when I sleeve my psu with 3 colors?

2) What sleevs should I get for my msi build?

mobo was inspiration of the build

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813130289

in this case with fans replaced for those xigmatek ones that are grey with white leds

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...112239&Tpk=k62

3) anyone have pics of a build of someone who used 3 sleeving colors in one build?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Morizuno* 
Guys, I nee some artistic advice









Number 1) What pattern should I use when I sleeve my psu with 3 colors?

2) What sleevs should I get for my msi build?

mobo was inspiration of the build

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813130289

in this case with fans replaced for those xigmatek ones that are grey with white leds

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...112239&Tpk=k62

3) anyone have pics of a build of someone who used 3 sleeving colors in one build?

Got a pic or a link to the fans so I can see them?

I'd say a combination of these two colored sleeves would look great with that mobo/case/fans (if I am imagening them correctly)
MDPC-X Grey Sleeve
MDPC-X Grand Bleu Sleeve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
Ordered on the eighth, got a letter from USPS today when I got home from school telling me to come get it. Since I had the car, I went ahead and picked it up








But yeah. Took a while to get here, but the sleeve looks great. My web cam does not do it justice


















Is that MDPC-X? Regardless looks great


----------



## ff02

As far as the Kobra sleeve, they don't get it from us at Koolertek, though it does come from the same original source. Just wanted to clear that up. For the price, and considering the color options, its a great product IMO.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
You are correct Oli. It's better than the regular PET from FurryLetters, but not nearly as dense or as expandable as the MDPC sleeve. The sleeve from KoolerTek is the same as the Kobra from FrozenPCU (from what I understand they get it from KoolerTek) and less than half the price. From KoolerTek 1/8" is $0.19 a foot while that exact same sleeve from FrozenCPU is $0.59 a foot. If all you need is a few feet of colored sleeve then the KoolerTek might be your best option due to Nils considerably higher minimum order. If you only need black, then FurryLetter's Clean Cut is a viable alternative. If you want the very best though, then MDPC is the only way to go.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 

Is that MDPC-X? Regardless looks great









Yes it is. Dilyn worked and saved for quite a while to be able to afford it.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ff02* 
As far as the Kobra sleeve, they don't get it from us at Koolertek, though it does come from the same original source. Just wanted to clear that up. For the price, and considering the color options, its a great product IMO.

I'm happy with what I got from you so far. I just which you had it in UV Yellow.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
Yes it is. Dilyn worked and saved for quite a while to be able to afford it.

MDPC-X Products make everyone and their mommas go


----------



## ff02

Can't be helped. Its not available for us to purchase in yellow. Oh, and thanks for buying stuff from us, and I'm glad you're happy with it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
I'm happy with what I got from you so far. I just which you had it in UV Yellow.


----------



## SmasherBasher

Gang, my order came today. At first I wasn't really sure what I was getting. The box seemed to be having an identity crisis

















Okay, I'll play along.









Box unpacked

























Piece of crap! broke off inside the very first connector I put it in.









These work way better









4 pin remover. Note: That is more Kobra sleeving over the 4 pin tool.









And of course:

















And for laughs, i removed a few connections and ran some over a couple wires

































Also had a connection I screwed up last week that I needed to fix so i busted out my crimper and put on a new pin. Works wonderfully. Well worth the $25 for the tool.









These little pins are harder to get good pics of than they are to crimp onto wire.









Crimped it too far up. flattened the pin out









Perfect!


















All in all, with regards to the Kobra sleeving in and of itself, I am of the opinion that, while it may not be "as good" as MDPC, it is definitely a viable alternative and I will be ordering in bulk for all of my own custom work, as well as any work brought to me for others.


----------



## Copenhagen69

can you get some closeups of the kobra sleeving to see how well it hides it


----------



## SmasherBasher

Man how much closer up would you like? That's 12MP in macro mode....


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher* 
Man how much closer up would you like? That's 12MP in macro mode....









lol ... humor fail


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher* 
Man how much closer up would you like? That's 12MP in macro mode....









your crimp on the wire doesnt bite into it, i think it might get loose if you pull it


----------



## SmasherBasher

I thought you were being serious







Really though, I can get closer if you like. I have a sweet camera.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
your crimp on the wire doesnt bite into it, i think it might get loose if you pull it

Yeah, I totally screwed up the first one. The second one is in for the win. I tugged on it with a pair of pliers and it's rock solid. At some point, I am going to buy a continuity tester.


----------



## Morizuno

sorry about late response, had to do a quick shift at work

here are fan links:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-037-_-Product (x3 for front and 2 for top

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-035-_-Product (x2. 1 for exhaust and another for h50)

I'm also getting dual twin frozr's. Don't know about the gpu yet, but it will definatly be a dual card set up with that cooler. PSU will be a corsair hx if that matters =)!


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher* 







I thought you were being serious







Really though, I can get closer if you like. I have a sweet camera.

Yeah, I totally screwed up the first one. The second one is in for the win. I tugged on it with a pair of pliers and it's rock solid. At some point, I am going to buy a continuity tester.

do you have the picture of the second one?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ff02* 
Can't be helped. Its not available for us to purchase in yellow. Oh, and thanks for buying stuff from us, and I'm glad you're happy with it.

Not blaming anyone, and not upset about it. Just wish you had some as it's been all but impossible to get any from anyone else.


----------



## SmasherBasher

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
do you have the picture of the second one?

I think he's talking about this one. It might not look crimped, but it for sure is.


----------



## ff02

That crimping tools works quite well. We'll be carrying these at Koolertek.com tomorrow, only they'll cost less. I'm not going to knock FCPU about the price, because they have a different business model that involves stocking anything and everything and having the employees to do a lot of what they do, but we as a smaller retailer with lower overhead, have the luxury of beating prices on some things. I've been using that tool myself, and its pretty great, especially considering what I pay for it wholesale







I was actually surprised by how sturdy it is, I was pretty much expecting light weight crap.

Also had a connection I screwed up last week that I needed to fix so i busted out my crimper and put on a new pin. Works wonderfully. Well worth the $25 for the tool.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ff02* 
That crimping tools works quite well. We'll be carrying these at Koolertek.com tomorrow, only they'll cost less. I'm not going to knock FCPU about the price, because they have a different business model that involves stocking anything and everything and having the employees to do a lot of what they do, but we as a smaller retailer with lower overhead, have the luxury of beating prices on some things. I've been using that tool myself, and its pretty great, especially considering what I pay for it wholesale







I was actually surprised by how sturdy it is, I was pretty much expecting light weight crap.

Also had a connection I screwed up last week that I needed to fix so i busted out my crimper and put on a new pin. Works wonderfully. Well worth the $25 for the tool.









can you stock the ones from mdpc-x instead? supposedly those are the best, and i want one without the crazy shipping


----------



## ff02

Nils doesn't deal with retailers at this time. Great guy though, I'd totally recommend him anyday.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
can you stock the ones from mdpc-x instead? supposedly those are the best, and i want one without the crazy shipping


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ff02* 
Nils doesn't deal with retailers at this time. Great guy though, I'd totally recommend him anyday.

He should start, I don't really like waiting a week and sometimes more than that for an order.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan* 
He should start, I don't really like waiting a week and sometimes more than that for an order.

i dont like paying for shipping







guess i will just get a ton of sleeving and other stuff all at once


----------



## Shane1244

He should just set up a NA warehouse.


----------



## godofdeath

actually does he make the crimping tools?
i recall someone saying he makes the sleeving, does he do the crimper tool also?


----------



## SmasherBasher

Frys has the same crimpers for $12 but I wasn't sure if they were the same which they are


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Morizuno* 
sorry about late response, had to do a quick shift at work

here are fan links:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-037-_-Product (x3 for front and 2 for top

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-035-_-Product (x2. 1 for exhaust and another for h50)

I'm also getting dual twin frozr's. Don't know about the gpu yet, but it will definatly be a dual card set up with that cooler. PSU will be a corsair hx if that matters =)!

Those look great, I think they will look great with what I recommended.


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Is that MDPC-X? Regardless looks great









Oh yes it is









Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
Yes it is. Dilyn worked and saved for quite a while to be able to afford it.











Birthdays help.
But yes, I've been saving and working for it since the beginnings of September.

My poor Internets


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
Oh yes it is


















Birthdays help.
But yes, I've been saving and working for it since the beginnings of September.

My poor Internets









It is so worthwhile though when you finally get it. You appreciate it so much more because you've had to work hard for it. Similar sort of thing for me with my first order. Could only get a small one as I barely had any money but it was more than enough to whet my appetite. Now I'm lucky as I got a small pay rise at work. Wish I actually had a PSU worth sleeving though!


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*


He should start, I don't really like waiting a week and sometimes more than that for an order.


The wait is worth the quality.
Bear in mind that he's only one man and can only do so much... unless you want to cross-breed him with an octopus so he can do more to satisfy impatience!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


i dont like paying for shipping







guess i will just get a ton of sleeving and other stuff all at once


That would be sensible... but really, don't you pay for shipping with most things? I certainly do; it's part of buying online!


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


The wait is worth the quality.
Bear in mind that he's only one man and can only do so much... unless you want to cross-breed him with an octopus so he can do more to satisfy impatience!









That would be sensible... but really, don't you pay for shipping with most things? I certainly do; it's part of buying online!


It's not him actually, he ships out within at least 12 hours of the purchase.

It's just the shipping service he uses, and how USPS takes over the package once it gets to the states.


----------



## SmasherBasher

here's another shot of the Kobra stuff from Frozen CPU and Koolertek. I think tbh, I'm gonna give KT a shot since they are cheaper and closer. Maybe it won't take 6 daysd to get my stuff.









that's a 1/8" sleeve with 4 wires in it. The stuff does NOT like to expand so best wishes trying to get 4 wires with connectors on them through that stuff.


----------



## PapaSmurf

It only took 2 days to get mine from KoolerTek, but I'm near Chicago. FCPU took 3 days.

The Kobra/KoolerTek sleeve definitely doesn't expand nearly as much as MDPC does. Getting three fan wires with connectors through the 1/8" did take quite a bit of work. I went so far as to try un-soldering the wires from the fan, feeding them through that way, then re-soldering the wired. Fed through easier, but ended up being more overall work (my soldering iron is a POC).


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Hope this doesn't come across the wrong way but I can't help but feel a little frustrated at those who have mentioned they don't like having to wait for shipping or the so-called 'high' prices you have to pay... You guys have the benefit of living in very large/prominent countries where you can get pretty much anything you need either straight away or within a few days for good prices. I don't have access to even half of what you guys can get, let alone for those cheap cheap prices! If I want something that we don't have in New Zealand, I have to fork out big bucks for the item after currency conversion, as well as the expensive shipping costs and then it still doesn't arrive for a few weeks. Just want to put it out there that whether you believe it or not, you guys are very lucky and I'd really love to be in the same position.


----------



## fshizl

man thats the problem.. so many people complain...

the basic concept. nils is the best stuff out there... hence why you pay the premium (shipping, waiting) for it....

if you want the best you deal with all the stuff the best comes with. Having the best stuff means patience...

Im tired of every one saying, oh nils stuff is too expensive of shipping takes too long... i wait six days for my stuff to get to cali. I pay the 11/29 euro shipping for my stuff...

believe me ive payed more for shipping than any of you have in your orders.. ive ordered from him 6 times already...

if you absolutely love the product, and looking for the best, then your are gonna pay for the best.

gotta pay to play guys...


----------



## Shane1244

If you want colour sleeving, Nils is the only choice. For black/grey, TechFlex CleanCut is just as good. but many, many times cheaper.


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher* 
I think he's talking about this one. It might not look crimped, but it for sure is.









That still isn't properly crimped. It isn't the fault of the crimper, it is the pins you are using. you see the wings that are on the insulation? They should be longer. When the crimp tool crimps those ones should be bent over and biting into the insulation, just like the other wings are biting into the metal core itself.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan* 
He should start, I don't really like waiting a week and sometimes more than that for an order.

He will never deal with other retailers, he has said so himself. It would go against the whole ethos of MDPC.


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
It is so worthwhile though when you finally get it. You appreciate it so much more because you've had to work hard for it. Similar sort of thing for me with my first order. Could only get a small one as I barely had any money but it was more than enough to whet my appetite. Now I'm lucky as I got a small pay rise at work. Wish I actually had a PSU worth sleeving though!

And I am equally unnappreciative and pissed off when it doesn't work like I expected it to (some of my purchases have, unfortunately, turned out that way). I don't think that this will be one of those purchases, however. I have high hopes for this








I'm going to take it slow. It doesn't have to be done till I get my new case for Christmas anyways, so I'm not entirely worried or on a tight schedule. I am, however, eager to see the final results









Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
-SNIP-

One of the reasons why I will never take up 100% residence outside of America








I try not to complain about prices. I mean, yes, it's expensive, but it is well worth the price (from all the pictures I've seen and praise I've heard). So it's definitely well worth the wait. The fact that I don't have to pay VAT is also a major plus!


----------



## Chicken Patty

At least for us in the US I don't think it is expensive at all. You gotta pay for the best, what else can you do?


----------



## Dilyn

It's expensive for those of us who don't have a steady income (such as myself), but it isn't terribly priced. $141 for all this? Sweet. And it's really high quality stuff. My step dad doesn't understand that (he actually looked really pissed when I showed it to him and told him the price).


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
I try not to complain about prices. I mean, yes, it's expensive, but it is well worth the price (from all the pictures I've seen and praise I've heard). So it's definitely well worth the wait. The fact that I don't have to pay VAT is also a major plus!

What most seem to forget is that it's an enthusiast product that has really only recently become more popular and no enthusiast product ever comes cheap. Water cooling is another example that springs to mind. A week for shipping? Tough nuts. Took 3 weeks for my first order. 2 weeks for the second and that's with Nils sending it out as soon as the paypal payment cleared. We want the best and the best comes from Europe. Just got to deal with it really and enjoy to final result


----------



## Dilyn

Too bad I don't get to start working until after I get all this Precalculus homework done


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 









Too bad I don't get to start working until after I get all this Precalculus homework done









*shudder* That doesn't sound like fun...







I've at least only got another 4 weeks until my 3 month modding break starts


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

I got another 5 weeks till I get a 2 week break


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
*shudder* That doesn't sound like fun...







I've at least only got another 4 weeks until my 3 month modding break starts









Finding solution sets for polynomial inequalities doesn't suit your fancy?









Quote:


Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan* 
I got another 5 weeks till I get a 2 week break









This. Christmas... Come faster...


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
Finding solution sets for polynomial inequalities doesn't suit your fancy?









Hehe not really my cup of tea







Do you guys not get much of a break around Christmas time? I finish my course at the end of November and don't start the second year until the end of February


----------



## PapaSmurf

My only complaint with Nils is his high minimum order. I'm not into the entire PSU individual wire sleeve thing so I don't need nearly enough sleeve to make a full order. I can understand it, but it still makes it difficult to get any of the UV/Neon Yellow sleeve as the only other alternative is the cheapo looking PET from FurryLetters.

Here in the states K-12 is off from around the 22nd or 23rd of Decenber till the 2nd or 3rd of January (depends on what day Christmas and New Years fall on). Colleges tend to be off from around the 20th of Dec till late January.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
My only complaint with Nils is his high minimum order. I'm not into the entire PSU individual wire sleeve thing so I don't need nearly enough sleeve to make a full order. I can understand it, but it still makes it difficult to get any of the UV/Neon Yellow sleeve as the only other alternative is the cheapo looking PET from FurryLetters.

Here in the states K-12 is off from around the 22nd or 23rd of Decenber till the 2nd or 3rd of January (depends on what day Christmas and New Years fall on). Colleges tend to be off from around the 20th of Dec till late January.

That's fair enough. If Nils ever gives me a sample of yellow sleeve (he's already given me a few meters of both purple and red so it's highly possible) you're more than welcome to it.


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Hehe not really my cup of tea







Do you guys not get much of a break around Christmas time? I finish my course at the end of November and don't start the second year until the end of February









Week of Christmas to the first week of January usually.
But I'm in high school, so college is different


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
Week of Christmas to the first week of January usually.
But I'm in high school, so college is different









Wow.... Even in high school I would finish half way through December and then start at the beginning of February. My turn to appreciate my good fortune it seems!


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
Finding solution sets for polynomial inequalities doesn't suit your fancy?









This. Christmas... Come faster...

Exactly, I've been too busy with schoolwork to actually get to sleeving :/


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Wow.... Even in high school I would finish half way through December and then start at the beginning of February. My turn to appreciate my good fortune it seems!

Yes, appreciate it!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan* 
Exactly, I've been too busy with schoolwork to actually get to sleeving :/

I have a trig test and a precalc test tomorrow/Friday. Can't wait...

How do I use this pin remover tool? I'm taking a break from the homework, and I'm trying to figure out how best to use this. It works for 24 pin, 4/8 pin, 6/6+2 pin, etc., correct?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Wow.... Even in high school I would finish half way through December and then start at the beginning of February. My turn to appreciate my good fortune it seems!

But how much time off do you have from June through August (our summer)? Here we have most of those three months off for k-12 and mid to late May through early Sept for college (or do you folks call it university).


----------



## vonVanir

I am gonna be all red and black can't wait!


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
It's expensive for those of us who don't have a steady income (such as myself), but it isn't terribly priced. $141 for all this? Sweet. And it's really high quality stuff. My step dad doesn't understand that (he actually looked really pissed when I showed it to him and told him the price).

Really? That much? Guess shipping takes a toll on the price then, when I was just adding up sleeving and such it wasn't that bad.


----------



## Messenjah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
It's expensive for those of us who don't have a steady income (such as myself), but it isn't terribly priced. $141 for all this? Sweet. And it's really high quality stuff. My step dad doesn't understand that (he actually looked really pissed when I showed it to him and told him the price).

He was most likely pissed cause it is something that is not needed that cost $141. some people think I am crazy cause I bought another cpu only cause I didn't like the way the one I have overclocks and that I pay $50 on sleeving for my pc for mostly looks lol. I explain it as I am just doing model cars again but instead of nicely painting a small plastic/metal model it is my pc









I know quality cost cause I have spent close or more than 20k on Matco tools I use at work in the past few years.


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan* 
It's not him actually, he ships out within at least 12 hours of the purchase.

It's just the shipping service he uses, and how USPS takes over the package once it gets to the states.

Don't lump them all in the same basket then when complaining about stuff from Nils; USPS and Customs are obviously to blame.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fshizl* 
gotta pay to play guys...

Exactly


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Really? That much? Guess shipping takes a toll on the price then, when I was just adding up sleeving and such it wasn't that bad.

Ya shipping is what pushed it over. Was 101 euros before shipping I believe. 120 or so after.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Messenjah* 
He was most likely pissed cause it is something that is not needed that cost $141. some people think I am crazy cause I bought another cpu only cause I didn't like the way the one I have overclocks and that I pay $50 on sleeving for my pc for mostly looks lol. I explain it as I am just doing model cars again but instead of nicely painting a small plastic/metal model it is my pc









I know quality cost cause I have spent close or more than 20k on Matco tools I use at work in the past few years.

Ya. He was really taken aback that I would spend so much money on "just looks".
He asked if it added performance. I was tempted to say that it would extend my e-peen by a couple inches.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


But how much time off do you have from June through August (our summer)? Here we have most of those three months off for k-12 and mid to late May through early Sept for college (or do you folks call it university).


Oh of course...







Excuse my fried brain! I forget about the whole season difference. I get about 3 weeks off from Uni/College in the middle of the year. Also get a two week break at the end of the first term and then again at the end of the third term.


----------



## PapaSmurf

That makes sense. We are just entering the fall season and you are just entering the spring season right?


----------



## DTR00

For those looking for a crimper and wondering if you can get away with a Radio Shack (show his age lol) or what so good about Nil's - read on.

Well I spent the last 10 days examining this issue looking at tons of crimper (cheap and pro) and just received Nil's version today.

Hands down, Nil's crimper is the bomb. There are two levels within each jaw so BOTH parts of the pin gets crimped properly.

And yes, shipping is a *****! - cost me more that the crimper so I added a bunch of other stuff to the order to make any sense.

Final comments - good tools make a difference and Nils has THE tool - if you can manage with less, all the power to you. If you consider some of the other professional crimping tools, I think this is still less (even with shipping - but knowing that bites).

PS. He included a number of sample sleeving in colour - damn, his stuff is nice...and no, I don't own his stock.


----------



## Chicken Patty

^^







It's been said before, but you said it again. Hands down the best! I just recently got to work with some of his sleeving, and I will never use another one.


----------



## [seandotcom]

aw man, my sleeving came in today but i missed it







so i gotta go pick it up at the post office. i'll probably have no time tomorrow, so i gotta wait 'til friday


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[seandotcom]*


aw man, my sleeving came in today but i missed it







so i gotta go pick it up at the post office. i'll probably have no time tomorrow, so i gotta wait 'til friday










Bummer


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Oh of course...







Excuse my fried brain! I forget about the whole season difference. I get about 3 weeks off from Uni/College in the middle of the year. Also get a two week break at the end of the first term and then again at the end of the third term.

I've always wondered this...
Do you celebrate Christmas there, and if so, do you do it during the winter months (which for you, I'm guessing, would be our Summer, yes?).








One of those random questions that is always nagging me


----------



## culexor




----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
I've always wondered this...
Do you celebrate Christmas there, and if so, do you do it during the winter months (which for you, I'm guessing, would be our Summer, yes?).








One of those random questions that is always nagging me









Yes they do. The entire world that celebrates Christmas does so on Dec. 25th. The only places that don't are some of the Jewish, Muslim, Islamic, etc. countries who have different holy days so don't celebrate Christmas as a holy day. Some of them due celebrate Christmas a holiday, just not as a religious holiday.


----------



## Yogi

This thread makes me want to buy another PSU and sleeve it


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
Yes they do. The entire world that celebrates Christmas does so on Dec. 25th. The only places that don't are some of the Jewish, Muslim, Islamic, etc. countries who have different holy days so don't celebrate Christmas as a holy day. Some of them due celebrate Christmas a holiday, just not as a religious holiday.

See, but then I have to ask. What kind of music do they play?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
See, but then I have to ask. What kind of music do they play?









Well, it's stupid really. We play all the music that you guys would play. Songs about snow, snuggling around a fire, sleigh bells etc.... Just doesn't work though.


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Well, it's stupid really. We play all the music that you guys would play. Songs about snow, snuggling around a fire, sleigh bells etc.... Just doesn't work though.

That is... Exceedingly stupid.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
That is... Exceedingly stupid.









Yep. I guess you've just gotta roll with it when you're in the minority. Can't compete with the USA AND Britain and Europe over something like that.


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Yep. I guess you've just gotta roll with it when you're in the minority. Can't compete with the USA AND Britain and Europe over something like that.

That is true








I guess if you just shut the blinds, close the windows, tune out the weather reports, turn the A/C to a brisk 50F, and shut your eyes, you'll feel like it's Winter


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
That is true








I guess if you just shut the blinds, close the windows, tune out the weather reports, turn the A/C to a brisk 50F, and shut your eyes, you'll feel like it's Winter









Ahaha, definitely


----------



## Pieiam

We celebrate everything you guys celebrate (except specific american holidays like thanksgiving and independance day, we have Australia Day and Queen's Birthday)


----------



## digital_steve

Wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!
Corsair AX 850 on the way, sleeving to be started upon arrival courtesy of the wonderful Nils!


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


Wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!
Corsair AX 850 on the way, sleeving to be started upon arrival courtesy of the wonderful Nils!


Woot woot! We demand pics, you know that right?


----------



## digital_steve

and i shall provide... once the PSU actually gets here and once i get time to start sleeving.
I've just had a horrible thought that i want to use a different blue to the one i got from Nils, so he'll be pleased to have another order from me for the darker blue!


----------



## Morizuno

when you get your ax psu, can you give me the cable lengths? I want to know how much sleeving I should buy =)


----------



## digital_steve

err... i suppose


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Morizuno*


when you get your ax psu, can you give me the cable lengths? I want to know how much sleeving I should buy =)


24-pin ATX connector (600mm) 1
4+4-pin ATX12V/EPS12V (600mm) 2
PCIe (600mm) 4
SATA (2 cables w/ 2 connectors each) (450mm+150mm) 4
SATA (2 cables w/ 4 connectors each) (400mm+150mm+150mm+150mm) 8
5.25" Peripheral Power Connector (2 cables w/ 4 connectors each) (400mm+150mm+150mm+150mm) 8
3.5" Drive power adapter (+100mm) 2

The number after means the number of cables.

But that's all the cable lengths. Just add up and that's how much sleeving you need (though I find it's best to order a bit more just in case.


----------



## mav2000

Some of mine from a new project I am doing. ink is in my Sig, Project [E]


----------



## Morizuno

Oh, thanks









I'm kind of stupped on what colors to get again.

It is for a msi inspired build, and so this will be the main parts.

mobo (what I'm building around)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-259-_-Product

(My personal favorite case. Lots of features for a low price, looks great)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...ian%20li%20k62 (fans replaced)

(Vital part of the build, utilizes msi's original twin frozr cooling)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-518-_-Product

Fans that I'll put inside the case:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-037-_-Product (x3)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-035-_-Product (x1)

Really want to know what colors to pick for this project. Grey and blue, or blue and black. Will use black heatshrink for this. I'm somewhat partial to grey and blue since it is kind of unique, but black and blue will look slick thanks to the black interior


----------



## PapaSmurf

I would think either the Grey and Blue or Black, Blue, and Grey tri-color. I'm sort of leaning towards the latter personally.


----------



## mitchbowman

purple and black


----------



## Morizuno

tricolor sounds good, any diagrams on how to sleeve a psu with tri color sleeving?

I was thinking every 2 pins switch sleeving so

g | b | bk | g
g | b | bk | g ....ect


----------



## PapaSmurf

Either that or g | blu | g | black | g | blu | g | black


----------



## digital_steve

don't go for black blue and grey... cos that's what i want to do!


----------



## [seandotcom]

just picked up my sleeving









i'll put pics up in a sec. Nils is a baller


----------



## Dilyn

I sneezed last night...
Something expensive snapped


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
I sneezed last night...
Something expensive snapped









what snapped?


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69* 
what snapped?

Was trying to get the pins out of a 6+2 PCI cable. Was trying to push it in as far as I could (the pin remover tool and the cable itself) so that the latches would go down. Then I sneezed. Tool snapped.
Very violent sneeze


----------



## [seandotcom]




----------



## Dilyn

Now I have to use staples *sigh*.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
Was trying to get the pins out of a 6+2 PCI cable. Was trying to push it in as far as I could (the pin remover tool and the cable itself) so that the latches would go down. Then I sneezed. Tool snapped.
Very violent sneeze









That just sucks.


----------



## Dilyn

What's worse is that these stupid pins don't seem to want to come out


----------



## kalluka

Will order soon if i get the money..but im also intrested in one thing FTW sleeves what do you think?

http://www.tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=7179014


----------



## oliverw92

There has been a discussion on these before. The run down was:

1. not as good quality
2. mass-manufactured by a chinese company (basically means that they are compressed onto a reel after they are made which crushes the fibres - proper sleeving should never be compressed on a reel)
3. claimed to be MDPC sleeving when it wasn't
4. used pictures of MDPC sleeving, claiming to be FTW sleeves (I believe they no longer do that)
5. drew a diagram of Nils (the owner of MDPC) being hung and posted it around their forums

Yeah, i don't know about you but i wouldn't buy it.


----------



## Copenhagen69

ya it looks like a few pics the blurred over MDPC as well


----------



## Morizuno

I don't think I can afford a modular psu guys, is there a guide on how to sleeve a non modular one? is it any different?

If you can't find a guide, then I'll just ask the questions...

1) Would I have to apply heat shrink right outside of the psu bezel where the cables come out?

2)Do I have to crack open the bezel and sleeve until it reaches the psu pcb?

I never opened up a psu let alone sleeved one before so this is quite new to me.

If you can PM me this info instead of posting in this thread, that'd be awesome since it'll be easier for me to reference =]


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Morizuno*


I don't think I can afford a modular psu guys, is there a guide on how to sleeve a non modular one? is it any different?

If you can't find a guide, then I'll just ask the questions...

1) Would I have to apply heat shrink right outside of the psu bezel where the cables come out?

2)Do I have to crack open the bezel and sleeve until it reaches the psu pcb?

I never opened up a psu let alone sleeved one before so this is quite new to me.

If you can PM me this info instead of posting in this thread, that'd be awesome since it'll be easier for me to reference =]


Actually it's not really that hard. You don't have to sleeve all of the cables either. The 24-pin ATX, 8-pin EPS12V, and PCIe cables are the ones I normally focus on.

And you don't have to open up the PSU enclosure. Cut the sleeving till there is 1 to 2 inches left. Then take a lighter (I would recommend a grill lighter) and carefully seal the fraying edges.


----------



## Morizuno

Wait, cut where so I have 1-2inches left? And why do I need a lighter for the sleeving? Isn't it flammable


----------



## Kaze105

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Morizuno*


Wait, cut where so I have 1-2inches left? And why do I need a lighter for the sleeving? Isn't it flammable 


The lighter will prevent the sleeving from fraying as the end will slightly melt together.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kaze105*


The lighter will prevent the sleeving from fraying as the end will slightly melt together.


I didn't believe in that at first, I'd figured even if it did just a bit, the heat shrink would still cover it up and you'll never tell! Well, it makes a world of a difference when you burn the tip just a bit, so much easier to sleeve the cable. Must do if you are sleeving, I speak from experience.


----------



## oliverw92

Don't do it too much though. You don't want it to to melt and form a solid ring.


----------



## kalluka

Thanks Oliver.Ofcourse i won't buy it then.I just read through the topic now and my eyes are bleeding.







And those FTW sleeves are almost the same price also.I talked to nils recently and when i will get my money then i will buy also







.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverw92*


Don't do it too much though. You don't want it to to melt and form a solid ring.


That's why I said, just a bit.







I burnt one a bit too much and then it was hell to get the cable in because it closed up and was very solid so It was a PITA.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Morizuno* 
Wait, cut where so I have 1-2inches left? And why do I need a lighter for the sleeving? Isn't it flammable 

As seen from my worklog, about two inches from the PSU.


















When you put the heatshrink on, it will cover up the sleeving ends. No need for zip ties.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
As seen from my worklog, about two inches from the PSU.


















When you put the heatshrink on, it will cover up the sleeving ends. No need for zip ties.










Did you open up your HX850?


----------



## DTR00

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan* 
Did you open up your HX850?

FYI - If you open up the PSU - you lose your 7 year warranty!


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DTR00* 
FYI - If you open up the PSU - you lose your 7 year warranty!

Yeah I know


----------



## DTR00

Heat Guns -

Question to those using heat guns - what settings are they capable of? For example, I just picked up a cheapy ($14) that does 250C (482F) on Low and 450C (842F) on high - How does that compare to what you are using.

As for backround - kinda got tired of using my torch lighter which can burn the sleeve /wrap if you are not careful (http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=h...ed=0CEYQ9QEwBg


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan* 
Did you open up your HX850?

Nope. That is why I cut the sleeving down to ~2 inches in length.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Nope. That is why I cut the sleeving down to ~2 inches in length.

I see, well lets say you have to RMA it, will Corsair take it back if it's unopened but the sleeving is missing?


----------



## DTR00

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan* 
I see, well lets say you have to RMA it, will Corsair take it back if it's unopened but the sleeving is missing?

I can tell you that several other people have said that Corsair's confirmed your warranty is OK so long as its not physically opened - but I personally can't confirm. Hopefully someone else can give you a definitive answer.


----------



## Joining

Well i just found a tool that can remove molex a hell of a lot easier...Use an oring pick.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DTR00*


I can tell you that several other people have said that Corsair's confirmed your warranty is OK so long as its not physically opened - but I personally can't confirm. Hopefully someone else can give you a definitive answer.


Hmm, they can still say that since you had to remove the wire from the 24pin connector that your warranty is voided, if they really wanted to.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Joining*


Well i just found a tool that can remove molex a hell of a lot easier...Use an oring pick.


Got a link or a picture of it?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Try Dental Pick. Basically the same thing.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
Try Dental Pick. Basically the same thing.

Which type, these?

These is actually dental floss though








http://img.diytrade.com/cdimg/238586...loss_picks.jpg


----------



## PapaSmurf

http://www.indigo.com/tools/dental-picks-probes.html


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


http://www.indigo.com/tools/dental-picks-probes.html


ahh, those! Thank you.


----------



## Copenhagen69

wow great prices on those


----------



## MorbEIn

Hi guys!

I've been reading and watching this thread for ages now, and I've decided to take the plunge and start some sleeving...

I just have a quick question, a typical PSU, how long do you reckon does one need to individually sleeve them cables?

I will be getting a http://www.yoyotech.co.uk/item-detai...cts_id=4368345 as a new PSU when i start sleeving.

I know PSU cables are different in length thats why i sai a typical average modular PSU ^_^

thanks a lot!

and well done on your sleeving guys! really awesome works!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Go to the ThermalTake Support Site and pull up the technical specs for that PSU. It should have the lengths for each of the cables listed. Just multiply the number of wires in each cable group by it's length and add them all and add an extra 10 to 20% up to determine how much you need.


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Go to the ThermalTake Support Site and pull up the technical specs for that PSU. It should have the lengths for each of the cables listed. Just multiply the number of wires in each cable group by it's length and add them all and add an extra 10 to 20% up to determine how much you need.


aha! why haven't i thought of that?! this is the reason why i love OCN, =D


----------



## DTR00

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


http://www.indigo.com/tools/dental-picks-probes.html


Unbelievable prices ($3)...and to think the ATX tool (which works awesomely) is like $34 and is not even dental grade


----------



## DTR00

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Hmm, they can still say that since you had to remove the wire from the 24pin connector that your warranty is voided, if they really wanted to.


I'll share with you my solution / trick to this issue: Sleeve an extention cable



























Problem solved - warranty intact.


----------



## DTR00

Out of interest, if you look, you can see the difference between MDPC-X sleeving and Mod Smart/Kobra High Density (both black) on that extention. I ran out of MDPC-X and used the Kobra to finish - you can see through the Kobra.

I'll have to redo it when I get the time and remove the Kobra. I guess this is an example of you get what you pay for.


----------



## kalluka

Can someone suggest a scheme for sleeving.Case is Fractal Design Define R3 black and white scheme and the mobo will be the gigabytes blue and white schemed like always.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DTR00*


I'll share with you my solution / trick to this issue: Sleeve an extention cable









Problem solved - warranty intact.


Yeah, that's what I'll be doing with mine. Although since it's a BFG, I might just do some sleeving to the actual PSU, it's got no warranty since they are gone now!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *kalluka*


Can someone suggest a scheme for sleeving.Case is Fractal Design Define R3 black and white scheme and the mobo will be the gigabytes blue and white schemed like always.


I'd say this blue and this white:

White

Blue


----------



## Dilyn

This Saturday I'm gonna try to go to my friend's house and get him to help me. He's sleeved at least five power supplies thus far, and he offered to help me. Might as well take advantage of his experience, no?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dilyn*


This Saturday I'm gonna try to go to my friend's house and get him to help me. He's sleeved at least five power supplies thus far, and he offered to help me. Might as well take advantage of his experience, no?


Sounds like a plan to me. Plus it's nice working with someone as opposed to working alone.


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DTR00*


Problem solved - warranty intact.


sleeving ruins your warranty?


----------



## kalluka

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


sleeving ruins your warranty?


No if you do not open the psu casing.


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kalluka*


No if you do not open the psu casing.


oh ok .. I was about to say


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
5. drew a diagram of Nils (the owner of MDPC) being hung and posted it around their forums

***!?!


----------



## SimpleTech

Made a little tutorial on how to sleeve (basic parts).


----------



## Yogi

^^ Is that the foam from your pump? I used it for the same thing


----------



## kalluka

Can anyone tell me how xien did that lightning behind that mobo.It is beautiful.


----------



## santanac

Hey guys!! a couple of questions for the sleeving pros out there:

-Best tool to cut heatshrink besides scissors??
-After cutting sleeve i've seen some guys had burned the edge so it wont fray when you try to put the cable through the sleeve. How is this accomplished, with a lighter?


----------



## mitchbowman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


Made a little tutorial on how to sleeve (basic parts).


like this ^^


----------



## mav2000

Best tool to cut sleeve would be a nice sharp craft scissor. Yup, you have to use a lighter to heat the ends so they dont fray


----------



## santanac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mitchbowman*


like this ^^



Quote:



Originally Posted by *mav2000*


Best tool to cut sleeve would be a nice sharp craft scissor. Yup, you have to use a lighter to heat the ends so they dont fray


Thank you guys!!!


----------



## MijnWraak

woah, bump! give us some more pictures guys!


----------



## spice003

what size sleeving to buy to sleeve a fan? havent done this in a while, forgot the sizes, i think i bought 3/8 last time i sleeved.


----------



## mitchbowman

i think it's 1/8 single wire
i think !


----------



## Dilyn

1/8" for single wire, but you can just put all the fan wires into the same 1/8" sleeve and it'll work just fine.
That's what I plan on doing anyways.

Great news guys! Went to my friend's house today, and he took a grinder to a tiny screw driver. It works great; he used it to pull out the pins on my PCIe 6 pin.
Will be working on it tomorrow, as I think it may be too late to paint these wires







. But at least I'm making some progress!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spice003* 
what size sleeving to buy to sleeve a fan? Havent done this in a while, forgot the sizes, i think i bought 3/8 last time i sleeved.

1/8"


----------



## BMorrisSly

So I've ordered my new PSU XFX 650W Modular. Now I'm looking at cables and heat shrinks. Here is my cart, I'm going to use paper clips to take the wires out. Also you know where the cables come out the PSU shall I leave that in the stock sleeve and start half way up? I take it that's what most people do?


----------



## SimpleTech

For the 'lawls', I sleeved my molex removal tool with 1/8" Clean Cut and 1/4" heat shrink.


----------



## Chicken Patty

That's just awesome!







Looks real good too!


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
For the 'lawls', I sleeved my molex removal tool with 1/8" Clean Cut and 1/4" heat shrink.










lol pro


----------



## SmasherBasher

Hey guys, anyone ever thought about sleeving the AC cable that goes into the wall? I can make it happen.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


----------



## PapaSmurf

I've seen pics of that being done in other threads.


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher* 
Hey guys, anyone ever thought about sleeving the AC cable that goes into the wall? I can make it happen.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

make it happen with lots of pics


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher* 
Hey guys, anyone ever thought about sleeving the AC cable that goes into the wall? I can make it happen.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

i think i saw someone do it before


----------



## PapaSmurf

I knew I saw it somewhere.

http://www.overclock.net/other-hardw...ml#post9603225


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
I knew I saw it somewhere.

http://www.overclock.net/other-hardw...ml#post9603225

Well papa smurf says I'm in charge and papa smurf is always right







(sorry...I've been wanting to say that forever)

Nice pic though...I'd do that if I weren't so lazy but then again, I never even see my power cord as is.


----------



## MorbEIn

Quick question about sleeving cables, I just got my stuff from MDPC and started working on my PCI cables, not really the konwledgeable around electricamajigs.
On my PCI 6 pin cable, i have 3 black wires and 3 yellow wires, does it matter if i switch the yellow wires with other yellow wires? and the black wirtes with other black wires?
___________________________
Black 1 || Black 2 || Black 3
Yellow 1 || Yellow 2 || Yellow 3
___________________________

can i switch black 1 with black 3? or yellow 2 with yellow 3, and so on...
dont ant to short my graphics card... >.>

Thanks a lot ^_^


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MorbEIn* 
On my PCI 6 pin cable, i have 3 black wires and 3 yellow wires, does it matter if i switch the yellow wires with other yellow wires? and the black wirtes with other black wires?
___________________________
Black 1 || Black 2 || Black 3
Yellow 1 || Yellow 2 || Yellow 3
___________________________

can i switch black 1 with black 3? or yellow 2 with yellow 3, and so on...
dont ant to short my graphics card... >.>

Thanks a lot ^_^

Doesn't matter. Common ground is common ground. The same goes for +12V.


----------



## PapaSmurf

^^ Agreed.


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Doesn't matter. Common ground is common ground. The same goes for +12V.

being stupid here, but you mean it doesnt matter if i switch them aye? **dont really know what common ground means









yellow to black or black to yellow will mess it up yeh?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MorbEIn* 
being stupid here, but you mean it doesnt matter if i switch them aye? **dont really know what common ground means









yellow to black or black to yellow will mess it up yeh?

Lol, yeah don't get the two colors mixed up. I was referring to the black wires (sometimes referred to as "ground" but that isn't the correct term).

If you own a multimeter, you can check the voltages to be safe. Not that hard to do.


----------



## MorbEIn

aha thanks ^_^

OIne of the wires i was trying to pull got disconnected from its pin >.> and i cant seem to get the pin off connector.. >>>

Edit: Any suggestions?


----------



## PapaSmurf

You'll need to do one of the following.

1: Buy a new pin, then purchase or borrow a crimper and crimp it on.
2: Find someone who can crimp on a new pin.
3: Buy a 6 extension, cut off the end you don't need, cut off the end from the PSU, and solder (or use NON insulted butt connectors) the extension wires to the appropriate wires together.


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
You'll need to do one of the following.

1: Buy a new pin, then purchase or borrow a crimper and crimp it on.
2: Find someone who can crimp on a new pin.
3: Buy a 6 extension, cut off the end you don't need, cut off the end from the PSU, and solder (or use NON insulted butt connectors) the extension wires to the appropriate wires together.

oh noes :S


----------



## godofdeath

that connector also cant be used since you cant get the pin out


----------



## jgarcia

Hello im looking to out source my PSU sleeving. I know you guys are all about doing it yourself but certainly some of you would like to make an extra buck. I have a fully modular Seasonic X650 and would like the following cables sleeved

Quote:

ATX connector (560mm)
20+4 pin
4 pin ATX12V connector (570mm)
1
SATA (350mm+150mm)
1

SATA (540mm+150mm+150mm)
1

5.25" Drive (350mm+150mm)
1

5.25" Drive (540mm+150mm+150mm)
3
6+2 PCIe (580mm)
2



I would like some high quality sleeve and heat shrink. I would like the sleeve to be red. Please PM me with quotes and turn around time. Thanks in advance


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jgarcia* 
Hello im looking to out source my PSU sleeving. I know you guys are all about doing it yourself but certainly some of you would like to make an extra buck. I have a fully modular Seasonic X650 and would like the following cables sleeved

I would like some high quality sleeve and heat shrink. I would like the sleeve to be red. Please PM me with quotes and turn around time. Thanks in advance

This would have been better for the Wanted section rather than a thread discussing it.

However, you're looking at a lot of money though considering the sleeving alone will cost you almost $50 shipped. With the color being red, you're pretty much limited to Kobra from Koolertek and MDPC. MDPC is the better of the two and is super expensive. Tie that in with the pain staking hours of sleeving and you're better off doing it yourself.

Try SmasherBasher though or Oliv or Xilen (sp). I know Smasher does it but not sure about Oli and Xilen (sp)

http://www.overclock.net/other-hardw...1forfrags.html


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I believe Martin aka Crys1s Gam3r also offers a sleeving service. He is an absolute sleeving god too so I'd recommend sending him a PM.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
I believe Martin aka Crys1s Gam3r also offers a sleeving service. He is an absolute sleeving god too so I'd recommend sending him a PM.


LOL, I totally got a mental image of a ton of little pieces of heatshrink worshipping a stone idol.

But then again my mind is a strange place


----------



## SmasherBasher

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MorbEIn* 
aha thanks ^_^

OIne of the wires i was trying to pull got disconnected from its pin >.> and i cant seem to get the pin off connector.. >>>

Edit: Any suggestions?

if you don't mind paying shipping twice, I can fix it for you. I have the crimper and pin removal tool plus pins.


----------



## jgarcia

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX* 
This would have been better for the Wanted section rather than a thread discussing it.

However, you're looking at a lot of money though considering the sleeving alone will cost you almost $50 shipped. With the color being red, you're pretty much limited to Kobra from Koolertek and MDPC. MDPC is the better of the two and is super expensive. Tie that in with the pain staking hours of sleeving and you're better off doing it yourself.

Try SmasherBasher though or Oliv or Xilen (sp). I know Smasher does it but not sure about Oli and Xilen (sp)

http://www.overclock.net/other-hardw...1forfrags.html

Well thanks. I think i might try it myself. I was thinking of going with the MDPC. Can anyone suggest a kit that could sleeve that many cables? Or I want to single sleeve all of them should i just buy a bunch of the small cable and some Small heat shrink. ANY suggestions on how much?


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jgarcia* 
Well thanks. I think i might try it myself. I was thinking of going with the MDPC. Can anyone suggest a kit that could sleeve that many cables? Or I want to single sleeve all of them should i just buy a bunch of the small cable and some Small heat shrink. ANY suggestions on how much?

Start with the 30m of small red sleeving and then you'll need at least 3m of heat shrink tubing.

This will get you just slightly over 98 feet of sleeving. Generally speaking, 100 feet of sleeving should be all you need to get through the cables on your PSU. If yours is modular, it works even better because you have more selection in what cables you sleeve and don't sleeve. If you want to be sure, just order 60m of sleeving and should be more than enough for everything in your case.

The general rule of thumb is to get at least a 1:10 ratio of heat shrink tubing to sleeving (100 feet of sleeving : 10 feet of heat shrink tubing).

You'll also need a molex extractor as well which can be had for cheap on eBay or jab-tech and I think Koolertek sells them as well. You can also buy an ATX pin remover but I always tell people to get a paper clip and cut it in half. Take a hammer and whack the hell out of the ends of the two halves to get them flat and then file them down to get them flatter and thinner. Only a little bit of filing is needed. Then, just use them for the ATX pins. Put one half in one end and the other half on the other side and then pull the pin to remove it.


----------



## godofdeath

wait is heatshrink for the 1/8 sleeve
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-8-B...o#ht_500wt_956
3/16 or 3/8?


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
wait is heatshrink for the 1/8 sleeve
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-8-B...o#ht_500wt_956
3/16 or 3/8?

3/16th is needed to fit over the 1/8th sleeving. Also, since your buying from FurryLetters, you can deal with Barry directly and pay less as well.

http://www.overclock.net/other-hardw...-sleeving.html

He also sells 3:1 3/16th heat shrink tubing and that's the one you should get.


----------



## wermad

new psu, new sleeving project







. bought some 1/8" clean cut from FurryLetters. This time, I'm doubling or tripling wires into one sleeve. Less sleeve and smaller bundles, though its a bit more bulkier. I'm almost done, just need some more shrink wrap I'll get later this weekend. After doing my first psu, this one was not as time consuming and challenging


----------



## Copenhagen69

looks good ... how about a few closeups on the sleeving ....


----------



## wermad

will do later, Im at work right now.

I left a bit of slack and you can see the wires, my main reason for that is to give it some flexibility when routing my wires once I get my new case. I have to say the FurryLetters sleeve is very nice, a tad bit brighter black compared the sleeve I used from Fry's, though not as shiny as the cheap sleeve (used some on the 4+4 harness as I'm not going to use that one and there is no point in using the good sleeve on it)

edit: here is my first sleeved psu, its for sale if anyone is interest


----------



## Morizuno

Can someone provide close ups of furry letters and mdpc-x sleeving in comparison?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Morizuno* 
Can someone provide close ups of furry letters and mdpc-x sleeving in comparison?

There are pictures of that in this thread somewhere already I'm sure. You may have to do a bit of hunting though.


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Morizuno* 
Can someone provide close ups of furry letters and mdpc-x sleeving in comparison?

There is no comparison... there's MDPC-X and then there's some other stuff that looks vaguely like sleeving.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
There is no comparison... there's MDPC-X and then there's some other stuff that looks vaguely like sleeving.

Pretty harsh? FurryLetters uses TechFlex "cleancut" high weave sleeve, I think the Fry's brand maybe TechFlex too.

IMO, the only thing that makes mdpc-x special is that they have a variety of colors. so I would say the TechFlex clean cut is like 95-99% of the quality of mdpc-x. Though for black, its not worth the extra cost and outrageous shipping to the U.S. where FurryLetters can sell you a roll of 100' for $20 usd plus $3 shipping


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
There is no comparison... there's MDPC-X and then there's some other stuff that looks vaguely like sleeving.

In a word, BS. You've been drinking WAY to much of the MDPC=X Kool Aid.

In a nutshell, yes the MDPC-X is the best sleeve. I don't think anyone in their right mind would argue that point, but how much better depends. When it comes to the black from FurryLetters the difference is noticable if you are looking at it when it's 2 inches in front of your face. Once it's in the case I defy ANYONE to be able to tell the difference from more than a foot away.

When it comes to other colors though, there is a HUGE difference that you can see from 5 feet away or more between MDPC-X and Furry Letters. When it comes to colors MDPC-X is the way to go unless you only need a few feet of a specific color. If that is the case then the better sleeve from KoolerTek would be a good choice as it is MUCH better than Furry Letters colored sleeve and available in smaller quantities than MDPC-X. It's also available in a lot more sizes than MDPC_X is. If installed correctly and with care it would be difficult to tell the difference from a couple of feet away which is a normal viewing distance for most people.


----------



## Morizuno

I'm going to do a black/white/red scheme, but I wanted to save some money and get black from furry letters, and I didn't want it to look any different from the white and red (I don't want cables to show)


----------



## Zeke311

Dear Crys1s_Gam3r: (LOL)

I am doing my darnedest trying to bomb around 250+ pages of posts on this thread trying to find where, if @ all, you may have stated what products you used; sleeving, shrink, etc.

If you end up seeing this post & take a moment to reply, I would greatly appreciate it. Who knows, maybe it will help someone else down the line ...

Take care,


----------



## PapaSmurf

He may have experimented with other sleeve, but I've never seen him post anything but MDPC-X sleeve and shrink here or in any of the other threads he's posted in.


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Pretty harsh? FurryLetters uses TechFlex "cleancut" high weave sleeve, I think the Fry's brand maybe TechFlex too.

Though for black, its not worth the extra cost and outrageous shipping to the U.S. where FurryLetters can sell you a roll of 100' for $20 usd plus $3 shipping










You get what you pay for i suppose; i'm in Australia, so i pay more for shipping than you ever would.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


In a word, BS. You've been drinking WAY to much of the MDPC=X Kool Aid.


Agreed... but the taste of that koolaid is sensational.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


In a nutshell, yes the MDPC-X is the best sleeve. I don't think anyone in their right mind would argue that point


Correct... you get a cookie, or a star; whatever it is nowdays.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Once it's in the case I defy ANYONE to be able to tell the difference from more than a foot away.


You would know the difference personally though, and always wish you had MDPC-X in your system until you slowly go crazy and strip all your sleeving in a rush of manic sleeve-depression.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


When it comes to other colors though, there is a HUGE difference that you can see from 5 feet away or more between MDPC-X and Furry Letters. When it comes to colors MDPC-X is the way to go unless you only need a few feet of a specific color.


Correct
Another star-cookie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


If that is the case then the better sleeve from KoolerTek would be a good choice as it is MUCH better than Furry Letters colored sleeve and available in smaller quantities than MDPC-X. It's also available in a lot more sizes than MDPC_X is. If installed correctly and with care it would be difficult to tell the difference from a couple of feet away which is a normal viewing distance for most people.


Depends if you're doing it for yourself or others; others are easy to impress, impressing yourself is the hardest job in the world (to me anyway, except when i ****... then i'm just all about me).

If you're going to order some MDPC-X and other stuff, why not sit back, plan and order enough (or extra) MDPC-X all at once and get on with the job!?

I wish i did... i've had like, 5 orders now. Shipping and time is a killer, but i always think it's worth it.
As you say, i'm on the koolaid... but happily so.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


In a word, BS. You've been drinking WAY to much of the MDPC=X Kool Aid.

In a nutshell, yes the MDPC-X is the best sleeve. I don't think anyone in their right mind would argue that point, but how much better depends. When it comes to the black from FurryLetters the difference is noticable if you are looking at it when it's 2 inches in front of your face. Once it's in the case I defy ANYONE to be able to tell the difference from more than a foot away.

When it comes to other colors though, there is a HUGE difference that you can see from 5 feet away or more between MDPC-X and Furry Letters. When it comes to colors MDPC-X is the way to go unless you only need a few feet of a specific color. If that is the case then the better sleeve from KoolerTek would be a good choice as it is MUCH better than Furry Letters colored sleeve and available in smaller quantities than MDPC-X. It's also available in a lot more sizes than MDPC_X is. If installed correctly and with care it would be difficult to tell the difference from a couple of feet away which is a normal viewing distance for most people.


tbh, TechFlex really only makes a quality sleeve in their "clean-cut" black-high weave sleeve. The other pet, or whatever is called, color sleeve is low quality and low weave that its pretty much see through in most cases. I've been tempted to go w/ the mdpc-x color sleeve but the cost always deters me. I'm not sure if they have a U.S. distributor or retailer that can sell it and for decent shipping. I have yet to check out koolertek, its on my to do list


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

Zeke, I exclusively use MPDC-X sleeving and heatshrink products.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

@digital steve: I will honestly say that I'll probably never buy black sleeve from MDPC-X. Colours yes but not black because Furryletter's black sleeve is so close to MDPC-X that it doesn't matter. The shipping from Furryletters is cheap and I pay JUST as much for shipping as you do since I live in New Zealand. $3US for International Shipping is great. Only takes a week or two before it arrives which suits me just fine. No sense in paying 15 euro for stuff that is very similar when you can get the black techflex cleancut for such a great price









I am a big fan of both Furryletters and MDPC-X so don't be thinking I'm getting all biased up in here haha.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


You get what you pay for i suppose; i'm in Australia, so i pay more for shipping than you ever would.


Your comment seems down right Fanboysm. Regardless of what is available to you, you can not say that everything else is trash when you have no proof or evidence, or even pics, research, what ever. there are folks that can only afford so much and the FurryLetters is really one the best bang for your buck high quality sleeve here in the U.S. and your comments only detriment people's expectation of TechFlex/FurryLetters who are possibly looking in the the cleancut sleeve. Take a day to read this entire thread and TechFlex clean-cut and FurryLetters come up a lot as its recommendable. Its like saying "I own a radeon 5970, everything is crap". my


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Your comment seems down right Fanboysm. Regardless of what is available to you, you can not say that everything else is trash when you have no proof or evidence, or even pics, research, what ever. *there are folks that can only afford so much and the FurryLetters is really one the best bang for your buck high quality sleeve here in the U.S*. and your comments only detriment people's expectation of TechFlex/FurryLetters who are possibly looking in the the cleancut sleeve. Take a day to read this entire thread and TechFlex clean-cut and FurryLetters come up a lot as its recommendable. Its like saying "I own a radeon 5970, everything is crap". my










You need to qualify that statement bolded in red as it is NOT accurate. Yes his Black Clean Cut is the best alternative, but the other colors he carries is the cheapest and worst looking there is and should be avoided if at all possible if one is looking for a quality looking job. If you want anything other than Black your only viable alternative to MDPC-x is the better quality KoolerTek sleeve. It isn't quite as good as the Clean Cut Black from Furry Letters, but it is 10 times better than the crappy colored sleeve Furry Letters carries and in many cases is actually less expensive than his.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


You need to qualify that statement bolded in red as it is NOT accurate. Yes his Black Clean Cut is the best alternative, but the other colors he carries is the cheapest and worst looking there is and should be avoided if at all possible if one is looking for a quality looking job. If you want anything other than Black your only viable alternative to MDPC-x is the better quality KoolerTek sleeve. It isn't quite as good as the Clean Cut Black from Furry Letters, but it is 10 times better than the crappy colored sleeve Furry Letters carries and in many cases is actually less expensive than his.


My whole premise is to point out ONLY the black TechFlex Cleant Cut High Weave sleeve. the other color stuff TEchFlex makes and FurryLetters offers, aint that good imo. I posted that a few comments at the top. Sorry, yes my whole rant is to say FurryLetters sells a great quality black sleeve called TechFlex Cleancut which is high weave count sleeve.

edit: ill quote myself:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


tbh, TechFlex really only makes a quality sleeve in their "clean-cut" black-high weave sleeve. The other pet, or whatever is called, color sleeve is low quality and low weave that its pretty much see through in most cases. I've been tempted to go w/ the mdpc-x color sleeve but the cost always deters me. I'm not sure if they have a U.S. distributor or retailer that can sell it and for decent shipping. I have yet to check out koolertek, its on my to do list


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


My whole premise is to point out ONLY the black TechFlex Cleant Cut High Weave sleeve. the other color stuff TEchFlex makes and FurryLetters offers, aint that good imo. I posted that a few comments at the top. Sorry, yes my whole rant is to say FurryLetters sells a great quality black sleeve called TechFlex Cleancut which is high weave count sleeve.

edit: ill quote myself:


Now you're talkin'.

I only have one complaint with Nils and MDPC-X and that is his unrealistic minimum quantities. That's why I'll probably never order from him as I would only use about 10 to 20% of the sleeve I would order from him. I just refuse to buy 10 meters of sleeve when I would only need about 5 or 6 feet of it. The only one I would even consider getting from him is the Yellow because there is no alternative to it from anyone other than the crappy see thru yellow from FL.


----------



## jadawgis732

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gunfire*


Sorry, that was bugging me a bit...










No, for lynching the correct term is hanged.


----------



## wermad

boy oh boy, I've been drooling over their color sleeve on their website. could sure use some white sleeve for my current build







. We need a U.S. distributor or cheaper prices.


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Morizuno*


I'm going to do a black/white/red scheme, but I wanted to save some money and get black from furry letters, and I didn't want it to look any different from the white and red (I don't want cables to show)


Unfortunately, because you want colored sleeving, your best bet is going to be either between the Kobra Sleeving from Koolertek.com or MDPC sleeving. The MDPC is the better of the two and the Kobra is slightly see through when it's expanded.

Unfortunately, the PET sleeving that Barry (FurryLetters) sells is actually really really see through. The Kobra sleeving is better than it but not as good as the MDPC. However, Barry does sell the black TechFlex Clean Cut Sleeving and that's the one you want for black sleeving as it will be a bit cheaper than the MDPC black.

It's also cheaper if you order directly from him.

http://www.overclock.net/other-hardw...-sleeving.html

As far as "looking different", you really shouldn't notice any difference in the look of the sleeving other than one color to the next.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


There is no comparison... there's MDPC-X and then there's some other stuff that looks vaguely like sleeving.


Terrible....

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


boy oh boy, I've been drooling over their color sleeve on their website. could sure use some white sleeve for my current build







. We need a U.S. distributor or cheaper prices.


Well, if I'm not mistaken, Nathan, owner Koolertek wanted to sell some of the MDPC in the US but (if I'm getting this correct...I may have the ignored part wrong but I'm pretty sure it's right...if not, let me know and i'll correct it) he was ignored the first time he asked and then was told no the second time from Nils.


----------



## wermad

I'm almost done with my project, just got a few more extensions and the sata (this one is gonna be fun







) to finish. Probably for my next build, I'll bite the bullet go w/ some mdpc-x color sleeve for a little pizazz, no doubt its really attractive. Thanks for the tip on ordering from Barry. If I need some more cleancut, ill contact Furry directly


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX* 

Well, if I'm not mistaken, Nathan, owner Koolertek wanted to sell some of the MDPC in the US but (if I'm getting this correct...I may have the ignored part wrong but I'm pretty sure it's right...if not, let me know and i'll correct it) he was ignored the first time he asked and then was told no the second time from Nils.

Nils has stated that he does not wish to give the rights to anyone to re-sell his sleeve as it will change the way MDPC is seen and experienced. Nils is very passionate about his products and his service is part of the 'MDPC Experience'







That's what makes MDPC-X so special and different from all other companies.


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Nils has stated that he does not wish to give the rights to anyone to re-sell his sleeve as it will change the way MDPC is seen and experienced. Nils is very passionate about his products and his service is part of the 'MDPC Experience'







That's what makes MDPC-X so special and different from all other companies.

oooooooooook then


----------



## wermad

imo, a manufacturer like TechFlex has the capability of doing different colors of high weave sleeve. I don't understand why they continue to offer only low quality sleeve in color. I need to write them a letter, its not like mdpc-x has exclusive rights to color high weave sleeve in the world. Im sure in the industrial/commercial markets, there is someone producing high weave sleeve in different colors. (sigh)


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
imo, a manufacturer like TechFlex has the capability of doing different colors of high weave sleeve. I don't understand why they continue to offer only low quality sleeve in color. I need to write them a letter, its not like mdpc-x has exclusive rights to color high weave sleeve in the world. Im sure in the industrial/commercial markets, there is someone producing high weave sleeve in different colors. (sigh)









Either that or they've all settled for low quality crap lol... My Vantec power supply came sleeved with triple braided blue sleeve though... It's not single wire sleeve but it's decent quality stuff. If they'd got the 'stretch' right it would do quite well.


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
imo, a manufacturer like TechFlex has the capability of doing different colors of high weave sleeve. I don't understand why they continue to offer only low quality sleeve in color. I need to write them a letter, its not like mdpc-x has exclusive rights to color high weave sleeve in the world. Im sure in the industrial/commercial markets, there is someone producing high weave sleeve in different colors. (sigh)









I wouldn't mind some Techflex Clean Cut in White, Black, and possibly Blue personally although I really like purple but I don't really see it selling well.


----------



## Zeke311

@PapaSmurf ...

I have somewhat of a burning question ... Maybe you might have some info.

I was pokin' around mdpc-x & saw sleeving specifically for SATA _data_ cables. I was immediately puzzled. Then I wandered to milllion$pc & looked @ a few creations ... one especially caught my eye - it had/has orange sleeving over a SATA data cable. I just finished starring @ it for 10 minutes. How the Hell was that done?! In my mind's eye I picture having a 'commercial' SATA cable in one hand, & in the other a cable that appears identicle except for some custom sleeve & heatshrink. How does someone take that flat sleeve & put it on the pre-made cable? I know the sleeve, when pushed from each end, gets a bigger inside diameter - but big enough to carefully shove the molded plastic end through it? Then pop it through some heatshrink? Wham, bam, now you have a sleeved SATA cable? Or might you tell me that people get the components needed & COMPLETELY create a data cable from scratch? ?!?!?! *shaking* my head.

Sorry, ... I am a 'wordy' person ... I call it being extremely thorough - hope you made it this far ...


----------



## PapaSmurf

Yes, that sleeve is designed to go over a standard SATA data cable.


----------



## vibrancyy

Great work,







im looking for someone that would be interested in sleeving a psu for me, in red black and white.

PM me, and lets talk business









keep the pictures coming fellas.


----------



## wermad

flat sleeve for sata data, sounds interesting hmmm.


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vibrancyy* 
Great work,








im looking for someone that would be interested in sleeving a psu for me, in red black and white.

PM me, and lets talk business









keep the pictures coming fellas.

http://www.overclock.net/other-hardw...l#post11268746


----------



## vibrancyy

??


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vibrancyy* 
??

The post he linked to contains pretty much all the info you need...


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vibrancyy* 
??

It was easier to link you to an earlier post 1 page ago than to retype it all out. Also, if you'll read the posts below it, you'll see that it's super expensive to pay someone to sleeve it for you if you add in all the extra charges.

Shipping 2 ways, the cost of sleeving, heat shrink tubing, and that person's time is a lot over the cost of doing it yourself.


----------



## Zeke311

@PapaSmurf, wermad, & ANYONE(!),

I just want to be crystal clear here --- the exact "SATA data" sleeve(s) on mdpc-x will fit over basic SATA cables? If yes, then what size shrink should I follow that up with? (2 sizes were given be wermad, I would just like to get the right stuff the first time, ... & I am certainly NOT looking to hold anyone's feet to the fire on here if a certain size does not work. I mean I will get both if need be, to cover all bases ... I am not worrying about the loot this going to cost, I just want to have everything in front of me when I start that I will need to complete whatever project I do.)

Also, I know that shrink is available with & without adhesive on the inside. Is one or the other more preferred by PC modders? Or is it application-specific?

Oh, ... I have a multitude of Qs to ask before I begin making moves on this ...

Thanks for anything & everything someone may throw my way.


----------



## wermad

I take it back, I tried 1/8", didnt go over the connector, maybe 1/4 or 3/8 would make it over. a nice piece of 1/2" or 7/16" shrink wrap will make it over the connector.

to be honest, I'm just planning on using black sata data cables. I've seen some with bundled black wires.


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
I take it back, I tried 1/8", didnt go over the connector, maybe 1/4 or 3/8 would make it over. a nice piece of 1/2" or 7/16" shrink wrap will make it over the connector.

to be honest, I'm just planning on using black sata data cables. I've seen some with bundled black wires.

Whatever sleeving you're using needs to be able to fit over 0.5" expanded.










If you look at the chart for Techflex Clean Cut, you'll need at least 3/8" just to fit over the SATA connector.

The MDPC is just more than likely one of similar size or maybe a bit smaller but it's meant to fit over that connector.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zeke311* 
@PapaSmurf, wermad, & ANYONE(!),

I just want to be crystal clear here --- the exact "SATA data" sleeve(s) on mdpc-x will fit over basic SATA cables? If yes, then what size shrink should I follow that up with?

Yes, and you order the HeatShrink SATA in the color you prefer. That's how it is listed on his site.


----------



## vibrancyy

even to buy a already sleeved psu?


----------



## wermad

Here is an alternative from NZXT. I have used some of their pre-sleeved cables (24-pin/8-pin, pcie, & fan sleeved extensions) and they are quite impressive. though these are extensions, I'm going with some of these:










edit- model is: CB-SATA-11D


----------



## spiderm0nkey

No heatshrink on it??


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
No heatshrink on it??

They don't need it. If I'm not mistaken, they sleeve the cable before attaching the connector so the connector actually goes on top of the sleeving taking away the need for heat shrink.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX*


They don't need it. If I'm not mistaken, they sleeve the cable before attaching the connector so the connector actually goes on top of the sleeving taking away the need for heat shrink.


I thought that might've been the case. Looks very cool


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
I thought that might've been the case. Looks very cool









Yuppers


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zeke311*


-snip-



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zeke311*


-snip-


Here's how the SATA sleeve works:
The SATA sleeve is flatter/wider than regular 1/8" sleeving so as to allow you to easily get it over the entire cable. Carefully pull the sleeve over the connector (I would suggest doing it over the flat connector side instead of the 90 degree side, much easier) and work it all the way down the length of the cable. 
Nils sells SATA heatshrink as well. This fits over the connector very easily if you just take a pair of needle nose pliers and pry the sides wider. Then all you have to do is slide it over the connector and SATA sleeve, use your preferred method of heating it, and then it's ready to go.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


No heatshrink on it??


you can still add some to give it that diy look. 
under $4 usd each, Im just grabbing a couple when I place my next order from ppcs, I needs a new fan controller and a fan/rad shroud.


----------



## SmasherBasher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX*


This would have been better for the Wanted section rather than a thread discussing it.

However, you're looking at a lot of money though considering the sleeving alone will cost you almost $50 shipped. With the color being red, you're pretty much limited to Kobra from Koolertek and MDPC. MDPC is the better of the two and is super expensive. Tie that in with the pain staking hours of sleeving and you're better off doing it yourself.

Try SmasherBasher though or Oliv or Xilen (sp). I know Smasher does it but not sure about Oli and Xilen (sp)

http://www.overclock.net/other-hardw...1forfrags.html



Quote:



Originally Posted by *vibrancyy*


Great work,







im looking for someone that would be interested in sleeving a psu for me, in red black and white.

PM me, and lets talk business









keep the pictures coming fellas.


I do. I just don't advertise. I sleeve when I feel like it and never get in a rush to get it done. Sometimes it can take a week or more to get a PSU finished so be prepared to wait. I recommend having a backup PSU.

I can even do the power cable from the wall:


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r




----------



## Dilyn




----------



## SmasherBasher

Quite nice.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r*




















is that the purple?


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r* 



























beautiful!!!!


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

Thanks all









godofdeath: yes


----------



## spiderm0nkey

^^ Also the reason I love MDPC-X hehe. I could pay you to get sexy cables for my build but I want to learn the hard way so I can be just as good as you one day.


----------



## godofdeath

anyone know of anywhere that makes the colors of heatshrink like that color?


----------



## wermad

TechFlex makes them, but there are a lot of places you can get some. I would recommend look into adhesive lined shrink. the glue makes for a better hold. for that I have only seen black and red, but I'm sure you can find more in other colors.


----------



## Copenhagen69

does MDPC not?


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

Fair enough Krissy









GOdeath/wermad: I would strongly recommend *against* using adhesive-lined heatshrink. When heated, a noticeable amount of the glue/adhesive seeps out of the ends - essentially, defeating the main purpose of uni-sleeving (aesthetics!). Also, it would be a pain if the segments came out uneven and you wanted to redo some of them.

Copen: MDPC-X does not carry purple heatshrink, no.


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r*


=
Copen: MDPC-X does not carry purple heatshrink, no.


shocking ... I wonder why?


----------



## oliverw92

My guess would be that heatshrink is very hard to colour match. It has a habit of changing colour after being shrunk. I know it took NIls months to decide on the exact shade of the purple sleeving, so getting the heatshrink to match would be very hard.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r*


Fair enough Krissy









GOdeath/wermad: I would strongly recommend *against* using adhesive-lined heatshrink. When heated, a noticeable amount of the glue/adhesive seeps out of the ends - essentially, defeating the main purpose of uni-sleeving (aesthetics!). Also, it would be a pain if the segments came out uneven and you wanted to redo some of them.

Copen: MDPC-X does not carry purple heatshrink, no.


+1trillion on the not using glue lined, Its just a bad deal all around.


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r*


Fair enough Krissy









GOdeath/wermad: I would strongly recommend *against* using adhesive-lined heatshrink. When heated, a noticeable amount of the glue/adhesive seeps out of the ends - essentially, defeating the main purpose of uni-sleeving (aesthetics!). Also, it would be a pain if the segments came out uneven and you wanted to redo some of them.

Copen: MDPC-X does not carry purple heatshrink, no.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


+1trillion on the not using glue lined, Its just a bad deal all around.


Has worked great for me. no mess, no fuss, no loose lines. I don't understand what you mean by "unisleeve". is that individually sleeve. anyways, there is a reason why adhesive shrink exist, is that it holds better, AND to remove it, I have done several times to either correct an error or redo a sleeve and all those times there was never any mess, it comes off quite clean. So, I have no idea which adhesive shrink you guys are using that causes all those things. +quadrillion for me for using stronger and no mess or residue shrink. if any one is interested, I use some from a company call JJ tech. I don't understand why all the fuss. Ill post pics of my two psu and both from start to finish used adhesive shrink. nough said









edit: oem(s) use some strong glue in there shrink wrap. ie: thermaltake's shrink was heavy duty, the shrink I think has reinforced with fibers and it used some super strong glue that has to be yanked. this is NOT the type of shrink i use.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r*


Fair enough Krissy









GOdeath/wermad: I would strongly recommend *against* using adhesive-lined heatshrink. When heated, a noticeable amount of the glue/adhesive seeps out of the ends - essentially, defeating the main purpose of uni-sleeving (aesthetics!). Also, it would be a pain if the segments came out uneven and you wanted to redo some of them.

Copen: MDPC-X does not carry purple heatshrink, no.


yea i was just looking at the purply pink color to match it, i dont want glue on it, i know itll probably end up on me and i will end up getting THAT everywhere


----------



## Pieiam

Far out. How do i sleeve the SATA cables?? It frays so badly. Ive already wasted 4 feet of sata sleeve. The furryletters one. When i try to burn the edges it just mucks it up even more..


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pieiam* 
Far out. How do i sleeve the SATA cables?? It frays so badly. Ive already wasted 4 feet of sata sleeve. The furryletters one. When i try to burn the edges it just mucks it up even more..

Are you using PET or Clean Cut?

With Clean Cut, the fray should be minimal at best. With PET, you'll have to cut it using a hotknife to get the best results.


----------



## Zeke311

Allrighty here, let us see if I can ask a question or 8, & have them make sense ...

I can pretty much figure out what the difference is between 3:1 & 4:1 heatshrink, but what are the circumstances someone would use one instead of the other?

@Crysis_Gamer - Do you generally use a heat gun for the jobs you have posted pictures of on here? Also, have you personally used SATA data sleeve from MDPC? Your opinion of me, an amatuer, trying it? To me, it appears that it could be a pain to thread through - a really tight fit to get the connector through 10-12" of sleeve without desroying it ...

I have a PSU I am going to trick out. And, of course, I have some specific questions:

I am going to custom-fit this to my case - shorten all cable lengths, etc. First question here is: After I chop out the unecessary wire, what is the best way to re-attach them? The 1st idea to me is to strip & solder, use a minimal amount of shrink on it, then sleeve accordingly, but I really am not good @ soldering. Could I possibly use some non-insulated butt-connectors after stripping, then shrink, & sleeve accordingly? There is another idea I have, but I would like to hear from anyone reading this & has a moment ...

Next, ... the 20+4 & the separate 4-pin 12V (mobo) cable comes out of a single, larage grommet. I really do NOT want to crack it open - but when I sleeve one of those wires, do I just 'push' some of the sleeve into the grommet & leave it @ that? Doing that way do I risk the sleeve sliding back out @ some point? How about after I push a little extra sleeving into the case, I slide a big enough piece of shrink (big enough for 28 wires, or 20 then 4, then another 4?) as close to the grommet/case as I can, shrink it, & hope that will look good enough? Or should I open the case, sleeve nearly all the way to the end of the wires, shrink accordingly, then close it all back up? Ugh ...

Since I am going to be chopping right into the 20+4, would I be better off just getting a brand new connector & pins instead of removing from orginal & re-using it? And since this PSU actually comes with a 20-pin & two 4-pinners, I could just make a full 24-pin connector & a separate 4-pin for the board behind the CPU ...

I am actually thinking of using ALL new connectors & pins since I am going to custom-fit everything ... & I am using minimal PSU cables for this build. Videocard needs no dedicated power from the PSU - & besides the board, I will only need to power 2 optical drives (SATA) & 3 HDDs (SATA) ... then a custom-length, 4-pin Molex that I will run 2 case fans off of ... Where state-side would any of you suggest I get the bare connectors, pins, & crimper (high-quality stuff, please)? If I can do it that way, then I will only worry about getting my choice(s) of sleeving & shrink from MDPC ...

Ideas? Other ways I should go about attacking this project? Want me to stop typing?

OK.

End.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
Has worked great for me. no mess, no fuss, no loose lines. I don't understand what you mean by "unisleeve". is that individually sleeve. anyways, there is a reason why adhesive shrink exist, is that it holds better, AND to remove it, I have done several times to either correct an error or redo a sleeve and all those times there was never any mess, it comes off quite clean. So, I have no idea which adhesive shrink you guys are using that causes all those things. +quadrillion for me for using stronger and no mess or residue shrink. if any one is interested, I use some from a company call JJ tech. I don't understand why all the fuss. Ill post pics of my two psu and both from start to finish used adhesive shrink. nough said









edit: oem(s) use some strong glue in there shrink wrap. ie: thermaltake's shrink was heavy duty, the shrink I think has reinforced with fibers and it used some super strong glue that has to be yanked. this is NOT the type of shrink i use.

Unisleeved is individually







. I normally don't down talk a product unless I have had the full experience with it lol. I have tried 3-4 or so different types of adhesive lined shrink tubing from 3:1 - 4:1 as well as numerous types of regular heatshrink.

What I was getting at is that adhesive lined heatshrink has a glue lining on the inside of the tube, which when it is heated the glue is made to "flow". Being that you are shrinking the tube down to a smaller size, the glue accumulates so that there is just enough surface area to hold it. More often than not, that results in a small (sometimes very small) amounts bulging or seeping out the ends.

On top of that, the glue is designed to be permanent. In all of the tubing I have used, once that glue hardens you either have to dissect it with an exacto knife (think science class with the frog) or cut it off, either way it rarely "slides off" because it "flows" into the sleeving.

In a world (sleeving) where "perfectness" is most peoples goal, it just looks "off" to have that. And for anyone starting out (making many mistakes as I did) its a bad idea all around.

Here is a small example on a sata cable I sleeved.









But in any case there was not really any fuss, just trying to help others from the headache.

Also if you have found a quality adhesive heatshrink that does not do that, awesome! Post a link where you got it and some pics bro!


----------



## SmasherBasher

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zeke311* 
Allrighty here, let us see if I can ask a question or 8, & have them make sense ...

I can pretty much figure out what the difference is between 3:1 & 4:1 heatshrink, but what are the circumstances someone would use one instead of the other?

@Crysis_Gamer - Do you generally use a heat gun for the jobs you have posted pictures of on here? Also, have you personally used SATA data sleeve from MDPC? Your opinion of me, an amatuer, trying it? To me, it appears that it could be a pain to thread through - a really tight fit to get the connector through 10-12" of sleeve without desroying it ...

I have a PSU I am going to trick out. And, of course, I have some specific questions:

I am going to custom-fit this to my case - shorten all cable lengths, etc. First question here is: After I chop out the unecessary wire, what is the best way to re-attach them? The 1st idea to me is to strip & solder, use a minimal amount of shrink on it, then sleeve accordingly, but I really am not good @ soldering. Could I possibly use some non-insulated butt-connectors after stripping, then shrink, & sleeve accordingly? There is another idea I have, but I would like to hear from anyone reading this & has a moment ...
*Actually what you would do is cut to the length you need and repin with a crimper.*

Next, ... the 20+4 & the separate 4-pin 12V (mobo) cable comes out of a single, larage grommet. I really do NOT want to crack it open - but when I sleeve one of those wires, do I just 'push' some of the sleeve into the grommet & leave it @ that? Doing that way do I risk the sleeve sliding back out @ some point? How about after I push a little extra sleeving into the case, I slide a big enough piece of shrink (big enough for 28 wires, or 20 then 4, then another 4?) as close to the grommet/case as I can, shrink it, & hope that will look good enough? Or should I open the case, sleeve nearly all the way to the end of the wires, shrink accordingly, then close it all back up? Ugh ...
*Go fully modular if possible. Problem solved. Otherwise, what I do if I don't want to open the PSU is just stop the heatshrink about 1/2" before it goes into the PSU.
*
Since I am going to be chopping right into the 20+4, would I be better off just getting a brand new connector & pins instead of removing from orginal & re-using it? And since this PSU actually comes with a 20-pin & two 4-pinners, I could just make a full 24-pin connector & a separate 4-pin for the board behind the CPU ...

I am actually thinking of using ALL new connectors & pins since I am going to custom-fit everything ... & I am using minimal PSU cables for this build. Videocard needs no dedicated power from the PSU - & besides the board, I will only need to power 2 optical drives (SATA) & 3 HDDs (SATA) ... then a custom-length, 4-pin Molex that I will run 2 case fans off of ... Where state-side would any of you suggest I get the bare connectors, pins, & crimper (high-quality stuff, please)? If I can do it that way, then I will only worry about getting my choice(s) of sleeving & shrink from MDPC ...

Ideas? Other ways I should go about attacking this project? Want me to stop typing?

OK.

End.

Sounds to me like a 100% modular PSU is in your future. You're going to save yourself a LOT of trouble. I answered some of your questions above in bold.


----------



## Morizuno

These are very nice, fully modular psus for the price btw

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...rstone+modular


----------



## SmasherBasher

I actually have this one. Does everything I need it to. I'm probably only using half the connectors. Need to get around to sleeving it one day....


----------



## greenoc

how much and what size of sleeving would i need to sleeve my psu. it is not mudular and i dont need to sleeve my 24 pin power connector because it came presleeved.

so i need amount=feet, size=in./diameter for one non modular psu


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Morizuno* 
These are very nice, fully modular psus for the price btw

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...rstone+modular

All of those are pretty good units, but stay away from the ST50F-P (Strider Plus 500w)
It's based on the FSP BlueStorm II design.

Very cost-cut; and just generally is very bland in that regard.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *greenoc* 
how much and what size of sleeving would i need to sleeve my psu. it is not mudular and i dont need to sleeve my 24 pin power connector because it came presleeved.

so i need amount=feet, size=in./diameter for one non modular psu

While I'm all for people helping eachother out, you sometimes have to use the resources given to you to figure something out. Everything isn't going to be spoon fed to you every time you need to know something. There is a huge amount of knowledge in this thread alone, and if you took a look, you'd find your answer.

Measure the length of the cables you want to sleeve and multiply it by the amount of individual cables there are. (6-pin may be 24", 6*(24/12) = feet needed.

always 1/8" for single sleeving on normal wires. (MDPC-X size small)


----------



## greenoc

Quote:

While I'm all for people helping eachother out, you sometimes have to use the resources given to you to figure something out. Everything isn't going to be spoon fed to you every time you need to know something. There is a huge amount of knowledge in this thread alone, and if you took a look, you'd find your answer.

Measure the length of the cables you want to sleeve and multiply it by the amount of individual cables there are. (6-pin may be 24", 6*(24/12) = feet needed.

always 1/8" for single sleeving on normal wires. (MDPC-X size small)
I have been researching sleeving but i never measured the cables yet.


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

Zeke, I do use a heatgun, but I know that Janik (Xien16), Ferhan (fhantastic), and Nils all swear by lighters. So use whatever you're most comfortable with.

As far as the SATA sleeve goes... it's not hard at all. You seem to be way over-thinking this.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *greenoc* 
I have been researching sleeving but i never measured the cables yet.

Then that's your next step.


----------



## Zeke311

@SmashBash: Thank you for the ideas you gave me, I will see if I cannot implement them all. Unfortunately, the main thing you stress, fully-modular PSU, is something that is not possible for this build. It has been bought, sits in front of me brand spankin' new, but unreturnable (had it too long). So I will work with what I have & be more-researched next time.

@Smash / @Crysis:

Suggestion(s) for quality 20+4 (or 24) pin connector, & appropriate (metal) inserts/connectors? I am thinking I can find crimpers like MDPC has for less here in the US.

Thnx Sorry if I am being a pain in the @$$.


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Your comment seems down right Fanboysm.


Yep, that's because it is.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Regardless of what is available to you, you can not say that everything else is trash when you have no proof or evidence, or even pics, research, what ever.


Sure i can, in fact i already did! I can say whatever i like thankfully.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wermad*


Take a day to read this entire thread and TechFlex clean-cut and FurryLetters come up a lot as its recommendable.


Why on earth would i do that? I've found the sleeve that fits my needs and is of high quality... i don't need to go through wads of other people's opinions when i've already formed my own.

In my opinion, MDPC-X is worth the time, effort and expense. I personally wouldn't bother with anything else.

I'm not sure why that ruffles feathers; maybe it was my tongue-in-cheek initial response that people took so seriously.


----------



## SmasherBasher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zeke311*


@SmashBash: Thank you for the ideas you gave me, I will see if I cannot implement them all. Unfortunately, the main thing you stress, fully-modular PSU, is something that is not possible for this build. It has been bought, sits in front of me brand spankin' new, but unreturnable (had it too long). So I will work with what I have & be more-researched next time.

@Smash / @Crysis:

Suggestion(s) for quality 20+4 (or 24) pin connector, & appropriate (metal) inserts/connectors? I am thinking I can find crimpers like MDPC has for less here in the US.

Thnx Sorry if I am being a pain in the @$$.


No trouble at all. My crimper is from frozencpu and I can't see any difference than the mdpc one. Same for the pins. Just takes practice.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


----------



## godofdeath

what size heatshrink is the SATA heatshrink?


----------



## Dilyn

4:1 I believe, 5/8" from the left edge to the right edge.
Need to expand it with some needle nose pliers to get it over the SATA connectors, but it stretches easily and with very little force. 
My SATA cable looks very nice


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dilyn*


4:1 I believe, 5/8" from the left edge to the right edge.
Need to expand it with some needle nose pliers to get it over the SATA connectors, but it stretches easily and with very little force. 
My SATA cable looks very nice










mdpc-x lists theirs as 3:1?
yea i need put the shrink over fan connectors and other stuff


----------



## spiderm0nkey

In terms of getting black PET sleeving (NOT cleancut!!), furryletters will be my best bet for that yes? (Remembering I need International shipping)


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


In terms of getting black PET sleeving (NOT cleancut!!), furryletters will be my best bet for that yes? (Remembering I need International shipping)


If you're just looking for a cheaper alternative to Clean Cut, ask Nathan from Koolertek.com about the black sleeving he sells. It's better than PET but less than Clean Cut.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX*


If you're just looking for a cheaper alternative to Clean Cut, ask Nathan from Koolertek.com about the black sleeving he sells. It's better than PET but less than Clean Cut.


Is it single braid?


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Is it single braid?


Well I think you're asking about the filaments and in that case, it's multi-filament (3 filaments per strand) but it's slightly see through when expanded. When it's pulled tight, you can't see through it.

http://www.koolertek.com/computer-pa...e-195p1964.htm

Meh, it looks like Nathan raised the price from $0.20 a foot to $0.59 a foot USD. Ask him for a shipping quote though if the site doesn't show one. Looks like PET may be the only viable option for you after all.


----------



## PapaSmurf

It's multi-filament, just not as dense as MDPC-X or the Clean Cut from FL.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Okay. I'm only after single but thanks anyways







(and yes, I meant filaments not braid lol my bad)


----------



## PapaSmurf

What do you want single for? That like using a slightly tinted clear plastic bag for sleeving.

Or do you mean you are looking the size of sleeve to fit over a single wire? If so, then this is the same inside diameter as the MDPC-X or Clean Cut from FL. It's just not quite as dense.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
What do you want single for? That like using a slightly tinted clear plastic bag for sleeving.

Or do you mean you are looking the size of sleeve to fit over a single wire? If so, then this is the same inside diameter as the MDPC-X or Clean Cut from FL. It's just not quite as dense.

I won't say what it is just yet as it's something I've been planning for a while with my build and I'm still working out the details of it, but it's definitely not going to be used for wire sleeving. I need it specifically because it still shows the colour of whatever is beneath it.


----------



## PapaSmurf

You have PM.


----------



## ShadoX

Hey guys quick question.

Probably going to pick my self up a Obsidian 800D by X-Mas (i hope







) and ive been wanting to resleeve my Corsair TX750 PSU.

Been browsing all the pictures and the single sleeves just look awesome, sort of convinced my self theres no other way to sleeve wiring now









Anyway i saw this pic in another thread (think it was the 800D owners thread) of someone (keeping in mind the flat black colour of the 800D) in straight white for all the power cables and it just looked awesome. Then i saw here people mixing colours like black+red/black+green/white+orange/etc which looks awesome also (i was already thinking of doing this as id seen it in the past).

My question, how does everyone decide on their colours? Do you just match it to your general colour theme of the case? Gotta also pick a colour that nicely meshes with white. And does everyone just do like every seconds wire with the colour? or more like every third or so wire (incase it detracts from the white?) or even like every 12v and/or earth wire in the colour and the rest white? (like a "highlight" rather than a straight mixing of white and colour)

i dunno just fishing for ideas here, this new case is gonna be the first i'll be going all out on this sort of thing (funny you spend so much time going "all out" onthis stuff to effectively end up with less wiring showing/more hidden wires







)

I was also thinking on keeping all my fan wiring/ccfl wiring/wiring closest to the actual PSU (in the bottom of the case) in black (probably just bundled sleeving) so it sort of hides the wiring in the dark a bit more ....(so one end of the wires, say the ATX plus will have white+colour out of the plug, then behind the mobo tray, have it switch to a black bundle into the PSU as i don't intend on lighting up the bottom section of the 800D)

anyway, thoughts anyone?

loving this thread btw, getting so many cool ideas, gonna go back to browsing now


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ShadoX* 
Hey guys quick question.

Probably going to pick my self up a Obsidian 800D by X-Mas (i hope







) and ive been wanting to resleeve my Corsair TX750 PSU.

Been browsing all the pictures and the single sleeves just look awesome, sort of convinced my self theres no other way to sleeve wiring now









Anyway i saw this pic in another thread (think it was the 800D owners thread) of someone (keeping in mind the flat black colour of the 800D) in straight white for all the power cables and it just looked awesome. Then i saw here people mixing colours like black+red/black+green/white+orange/etc which looks awesome also (i was already thinking of doing this as id seen it in the past).

My question, how does everyone decide on their colours? Do you just match it to your general colour theme of the case? Gotta also pick a colour that nicely meshes with white. And does everyone just do like every seconds wire with the colour? or more like every third or so wire (incase it detracts from the white?) or even like every 12v and/or earth wire in the colour and the rest white? (like a "highlight" rather than a straight mixing of white and colour)

i dunno just fishing for ideas here, this new case is gonna be the first i'll be going all out on this sort of thing (funny you spend so much time going "all out" onthis stuff to effectively end up with less wiring showing/more hidden wires







)

I was also thinking on keeping all my fan wiring/ccfl wiring/wiring closest to the actual PSU (in the bottom of the case) in black (probably just bundled sleeving) so it sort of hides the wiring in the dark a bit more ....(so one end of the wires, say the ATX plus will have white+colour out of the plug, then behind the mobo tray, have it switch to a black bundle into the PSU as i don't intend on lighting up the bottom section of the 800D)

anyway, thoughts anyone?

loving this thread btw, getting so many cool ideas, gonna go back to browsing now









I had already come up with a colour scheme for my build before I bought my sleeve, but typically you can just pick a colour that you really like







It might match your hardware and it might not.

In terms of which ones to sleeve in colour, some will do every second wire and others will do it with just a few 'feature' colour wires (Martin's work is a great example of this).


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
mdpc-x lists theirs as 3:1?
yea i need put the shrink over fan connectors and other stuff

Then it must be 3:1









I think the SATA shrink will fit over fan connectors with few problems.


----------



## Lutro0

Well I tried my hand at the psu powercord sleeving, as much as I hated to you will notice that I ended up using adhesive shrink as whenever I bent the cord the other shrink would move =/ So it does have its purpose, but man it looks ugly. =P


----------



## spiderm0nkey

How did you go about sleeving that cable Lutro0?


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


How did you go about sleeving that cable Lutro0?


probably went over the female connector would be my guess


----------



## Zeke311

@Dilyn - As I have rifled through this 2,000+ post thread over the past few days, I cannot remember if you have ever posted any pictures. Either way, do you have anyway to show me (ahem, us) your SATA data creation?

=)


----------



## Zeke311

@Crysis (Martin):

Could you estimate the length of shrink you use on ONE end of ONE wire into, say, that 24-pinner?

My guess is, eh, 5/8" (16mm or so) ...


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zeke311*


@Crysis (Martin):

Could you estimate the length of shrink you use on ONE end of ONE wire into, say, that 24-pinner?

My guess is, eh, 5/8" (16mm or so) ...


heatshrink is cut to 15mm, there are precut ones on mdpc-x


----------



## digital_steve

Or just use some calipers to measure 15mm and cut away to your hearts content


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zeke311*


@Dilyn - As I have rifled through this 2,000+ post thread over the past few days, I cannot remember if you have ever posted any pictures. Either way, do you have anyway to show me (ahem, us) your SATA data creation?

=)


I'll get a picture of it up tonight hopefully. The shrink doesn't look all that great, but hey, you can't really see that








I'll be trying my hand at this six pin I have laying here. All the cables are pulled out, I just need to get off my lazy behind and paint them!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I wish there was a smiley to depict tears of joy. Pre-cut heatshrink.... So beautiful


----------



## SmasherBasher

Nice. Did you simply cut the cable and resplice afterwards? 
Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Well I tried my hand at the psu powercord sleeving, as much as I hated to you will notice that I ended up using adhesive shrink as whenever I bent the cord the other shrink would move =/ So it does have its purpose, but man it looks ugly. =P





















Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


How did you go about sleeving that cable Lutro0?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*


Nice. Did you simply cut the cable and resplice afterwards?



I did infact just cut it =P I rewired them straight like this:

------------x---------------
------------x---------------
------------x---------------

Which left me with a teeeny bump in the sleeving.
If I were to give advice on how to do it properly I would say cut it staggered like this:

-----x-----------------------
-------------x---------------
-----------------------x-----

As to not get that bump and keep the original diameter of the cord. Of course soldering is more than recommended. This one was just a trial run to see if it was feasible and if it looked good. But in any case its super simple and the reward awesome.

Now if we could just get martin to do one?


----------



## SmasherBasher

I'm doing mine as soon as the IEC connector I ordered gets here. Basically ill just cut off the female end and sleeve it, then wire it up to a new female end.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


I wish there was a smiley to depict tears of joy. Pre-cut heatshrink.... So beautiful


lol is it that hard to cut it perfectly yourself?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


lol is it that hard to cut it perfectly yourself?


Depends. If you have good scissors with clean sharp blades it wouldn't be that difficult. If you have some old, worn out, dull scissors then yes, it would be difficult.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


lol is it that hard to cut it perfectly yourself?


Not at all. I'm not planning on buying the pre-cut stuff as I already have a stack of heatshrink, but it's just nice to see that he offers it for those who want to make sleeving a little easier on themselves









@Lutro0 That's really good to know. I may have to chop up one of my spare power cables to see how tricky it'll be to solder back together again.


----------



## ThaJoker

dude really? lol

you stole my pattern...

your pattern...









my pattern...









lol thats funny..


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThaJoker*


dude really? lol

you stole my pattern...

lol thats funny..


Lol? Probably not all that hard to come up with that sort of combination wihtout seeing someone else's work haha. There's only so much variation


----------



## DTR00

@spiderm0nkey

RE: sig....

Quote:



I am a girl

No I will not make you a sandwich.


Just really saw/caught that and was like, LMAO.....well played


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DTR00*


@spiderm0nkey

RE: sig....

Just really saw/caught that and was like, LMAO.....well played


















haha


----------



## Zeke311

UGH! I am sorry, ... I know I am new on here & all, but I have got to vent! I get the 15mm thing, but this metric $h!t just gripes/chaps my @$$ like you WOULD NOT believe! ARRRGGGHHH!!!

OK, now that I have dispensed with that, I would like to personally THANK ThaJoker for making my mind up for me! I have been on the fence for a handfull of days over which blue to go for @ MDPC. "Dark" blue, like in Martin's recents pics, can take a hike!

OK, I am done.

=)


----------



## MijnWraak

OH.
MY.
GOD.

Pre-cut heatshrink!?!?!?

This completely makes sleeving about 1000x more fun for me.

Hello new project!


----------



## the~faithless

I have one qestion... How do you get S-ata sleeving from MDPC to fit over angled S-ata cables?


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *the~faithless* 
I have one qestion... How do you get S-ata sleeving from MDPC to fit over angled S-ata cables?

You put them over the straight ends. If you have right angle to right angle connectors, I don't believe they were made to go over those ends.


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX*


You put them over the straight ends. If you have right angle to right angle connectors, I don't believe they were made to go over those ends.


That's what I did









I'll take a pic today. I promise.


----------



## godofdeath

should i sleeve the y fan cable i bought?
its the nzxt already sleeved ones, i just hate their heatshrink


----------



## PapaSmurf

You are the only one who can decide that. If you don't like the looks of it then yes, especially if not doing it will bug the heck out of you.


----------



## Dilyn

Stupid rec center









I'll snap a picture right now. Will edit this post with it.

Please note that I will be using my web cam (Logitech 9000 Pro) as it is the best camera I have, so it will not in any way show the great detail in this cable. Also note that this was my first ever sleeving, so it might not be perfect (the cable could've been stretched tighter).

EDIT
Pictures:


----------



## MijnWraak

Just keep practicing and you'll get the stretch down







I try to use a strong clamp so I can stretch it pretty well with my fingers (still get calluses, but worth it haha)

I usually stretch it the same way about 4-6 times just to make sure its as long as it can go, hand over hand so it doesn't go back to the original length.


----------



## godofdeath

how long should sleeving be cut to make it nice
like 1 foot of cable not including the pins and such should = how much sleeving?


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Using your toe to stretch the sleeving while shrinking on the other side works wonders


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


how long should sleeving be cut to make it nice
like 1 foot of cable not including the pins and such should = how much sleeving?


1 foot is 1 foot.


----------



## Yogi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThaJoker*


dude really? lol

you stole my pattern...


Your pattern? I think Martin owns the rights to every single sleeving combination


----------



## Zeke311

@Yogi:

Not *every* one.









Stay tuned ...


----------



## JAM3S121

the mdpc small sleeve is 1/8 right?

when i do my 24 pin motherboard could i fit multiple wires in each sleeve? I don't want to have one sleeve for every single wire but I also want a few so like 3 in each sleeve...

woudl that work?


----------



## PapaSmurf

It should expand enough to do that, but the weave would become less dense so the wires would show through quite plainly from what I've seen.


----------



## JAM3S121

well i don't want to to look PET dense so maybe I won't do that

i guess its a little daunting just how many wires you really have to do single sleeving everything but i want it to look nice lol


----------



## PapaSmurf

It won't look PET dense, but it will show through. It would probably look somewhere between the KoolerTek/Kobra and PET. You might to consider using the SATA sleeve for everything then as it should hold 3 to 4 wires quite nicely, possibly as many as 6.


----------



## JAM3S121

thanks for the advice.. i hope to post some screens when i order the sleeve next week

aquamarine and gray is what im thinking about doing


----------



## godofdeath

well i got the furry letters sleeving and heatshrink

sadly the heatshrink i tried to use for fans over the connecetor and such does not shrink down to that size







, it melts after a while


----------



## ninjabelly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


well i got the furry letters sleeving and heatshrink

sadly the heatshrink i tried to use for fans over the connecetor and such does not shrink down to that size







, it melts after a while


You get the 3/16's 3:1 ratio stuff?


----------



## Morizuno

yo guys, I need an opinion on which motherboard to get for sleeving

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-163-_-Product
(both of these, black / red)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-666-_-Product
(both of these, black / red / white)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-482-_-Product
(may do black/red/white)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-056-_-Product
(black/white)

Case:

http://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/pr...ssis/colossus/
(black version)

Will be water cool'd with either black or white tubing. I'll be using the case with the side panel off until I can find someone who can add a side panel window


----------



## Morizuno

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Morizuno* 
yo guys, I need an opinion on which motherboard to get for black and red sleeving

......

anyone?


----------



## MijnWraak

I'd go for the EVGA for the even PCI-E layout that'll allow a tri-sli setup if you ever wanted to, and it's pretty damn sexy.

Besides that, I'd go with something a little more original than red and black if I were you, imo. Gray and red if you don't want to stray far off maybe?


----------



## Morizuno

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
I'd go for the EVGA for the even PCI-E layout that'll allow a tri-sli setup if you ever wanted to, and it's pretty damn sexy.

Besides that, I'd go with something a little more original than red and black if I were you, imo. Gray and red if you don't want to stray far off maybe?

Well, it just looks awesome. I guess that's why it is used so much.

All the motherboards I posted above are more than enough for what I'm using, which is a single 6850 and some add on cards (sound, nic)


----------



## Morizuno

Hey guys, I'll be ordering the sleeving tomorrow (today) and I would like to know for sure which motherboard to get so it'll all match

bloodrage, rampage formula III, maximus III formula, or evga p55 ftw


----------



## oliverw92

Well have you got your CPU/RAM yet - because you have listed 4 motherboards there, 2 of which are 1366 and two of which are 1156. If you already have that i5 then you should only be looking at the last two boards you mentioned.

Either way, i would say that the bloodrage is now pretty out-dated.


----------



## Slic

anyone know where I can buy a cheap hotwire cutter? or rope cutter?


----------



## Lutro0

Well I did a final version of the PSU power cable and also did a guide to share the love. =)

You're suggestions to improve the guide would be welcome.

Here is the link: PSU Power Cord Sleeving Guide


----------



## Dilyn

That looks awesome mate! Good job


----------



## Morizuno

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Well have you got your CPU/RAM yet - because you have listed 4 motherboards there, 2 of which are 1366 and two of which are 1156. If you already have that i5 then you should only be looking at the last two boards you mentioned.

Either way, i would say that the bloodrage is now pretty out-dated.

I don't have anything in the sig rig besides the case and ssd. I had the 5850 but I just sold it a few hours ago


----------



## syookhong

thanks for the link !


----------



## argya

hello guys.















I'm considering to sleeve my Seasonic X750W individually, but I'm totally new to Sleeving, what do you think I would need to make this? Thx a lot


----------



## Morizuno

hey guys uh, how do I sleeve a non modular psu? The one I got is modular except for the 24pin connector


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *argya* 
hello guys.















I'm considering to sleeve my Seasonic X750W individually, but I'm totally new to Sleeving, what do you think I would need to make this? Thx a lot


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Morizuno* 
hey guys uh, how do I sleeve a non modular psu? The one I got is modular except for the 24pin connector

Read the first post in this thread and follow any of the links in it. That should get you started.


----------



## [seandotcom]

got an AX1200 on black friday









so i started sleeving. it's kinda hard, i'm not good at it yet.

the hardest part for me is the heatshrink. but i'm getting the hang of it.


----------



## TigerLord

A little e-mail of joy, brought to me because of this here thread.

Quote:

Product = Pin-Remover by MOLEX - The Original
Quantity = 1
SKU = PR-MOLEX
Price = 20,34 €

Product = MDPC Christmas-Sleeve-Kit
Quantity = 1
SKU = SLS-K1-BK
Price = 36,89 €

Product = Cable-Management-Clip SMALL - BLACK
Quantity = 1
SKU = PC-S-BK
Price = 1,89 €

Product = Cable-Management-Clip MEDIUM - BLACK
Quantity = 1
SKU = PC-M-BK
Price = 1,93 €

Product = Sleeve SMALL - RED
Quantity = 1
SKU = SL-S-RE
Price = 6,68 €

Product = Sleeve SATA - RED
Quantity = 1
SKU = SL-SA-RE
Price = 5,00 €

Product = Pre-Cut Heatshrink SMALL - RED
Quantity = 1
SKU = HSC-S-RE
Price = 3,35 €

Product = Heatshrink SATA - RED
Quantity = 1
SKU = HS-SA-RE
Price = 2,69 €

SubTotal = 78,77 €
Shipping and Handling Fee = 14,05 €

Fee = + 0,00 €
Coupon Discount: 0,00 €
Total = 92,82 €
Building a new rig, which should be complete by Christmas morning. I knew I'd settle on the 800D case quickly (I don't like drilling holes in pristine equipment) because of its sheer size (currently on a Lian-Li V2000B) and wire management capabilities. Then I began eyeing threads with the thread, and saw multiple ones with some pretty ****ing good looking wires... I didn't even know custom wiring even existed.

My researched led me here, then to the fine folks at MDPC-X. My current rig was my first dip in watercooling and modding... this new rig shall be my best to date. It all starts with the little details. My color scheme will be red and black to match the EVGA X58 Classified... I'm super excited.

Just have to go through these pesky finals and on Dec 13th, I'm officially off for a month. MODDING TIME!

Thanks Overclock.net and MDPC-X for providing me with a new kind of hard-on!









PS. Challenged by the quality of some photos in this thread, I felt the need to order a new macro lens at B&H!!!


----------



## Morizuno

How much sleeving should I buy from mdpc-x with 570mm cables? I plan on sleeving the entire psu.

About to purchase it now, so if you can reply quickly that'd be awesome









Sleeve SMALL - BLACK
SL-S-BK6,68 Euro
Quantity: 2
13,36 Euro
Sleeve SMALL - RED
SL-S-RE6,68 Euro
Quantity: 2
13,36 Euro
Pre-Cut Heatshrink SMALL - BLACK
HSC-S-BK3,35 Euro
Quantity: 1
3,35 Euro
Subtotal:30,08 Euro
Shipping and Handling Fee:14,05 Euro

Total:44,13 Euro

^I'm about to purchase


----------



## PapaSmurf

Multiply the actual number of wires to sleeve times the length then add 20 to 30% to make sure you have enough.


----------



## Morizuno

just ordered 60$ worth of sleeving.. dang lol!

Thanks +rep


----------



## Evostance

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Morizuno* 
just ordered 60$ worth of sleeving.. dang lol!

Thanks +rep

$130 worth on the way to me


----------



## Dilyn

I bought $141 worth for my birthday in October


----------



## oliverw92

I bught your mum


----------



## Tator Tot

I bought Olli, his mum, and POLARity


----------



## oliverw92

IK,c


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Ollie, until you are sober:


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey* 
Ollie, until you are sober:

permabanned.gif








:rofl:

Exactly what I was thinking


























Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
I bought $141 worth for my birthday in October









beat me by 50 cents


----------



## PapaSmurf

I just got $3 worth of the neon orange MDPC from one of the users here on OCN. Now if I can find about 5 feet of the Neon Yellow I can do my 60's Acid Flashback Tie Died Themed sleeve.


----------



## MisterAutomatic

Man I'm so glad I looked at this thread because I was looking for a more uniform way for my sleeving to look, and pre-cut heat shrink never entered my mind. Here's some work I did last night and the night before.


----------



## Shrimpykins

Did someone say sleeving?










Family pack ft*win*!

Oo la la, sexy sleeving.


----------



## MijnWraak

Try to get more indirect light when taking pictures of it, the way the sleeve reflects light, shining a light directly on it makes it look not so good







.

Near a window on an overcast day is supposedly the best


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


Try to get more indirect light when taking pictures of it, the way the sleeve reflects light, shining a light directly on it makes it look not so good







.

Near a window on an overcast day is supposedly the best










Yeah, that was with the flash, I have another pic with no flash. It still has some direct light though.


----------



## Dilyn

That sure is a lot of heatshrink there boyo


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
That sure is a lot of heatshrink there boyo









20 meters to be exact, along with 200 meters of small black shrink.


----------



## The Muffin Man

Hey guys, new to the forum, and the whole forum thing, and loving everything that's on here. I was thinking about sleeving my cables when I stumbled along this thread, which has really "inspired" me I guess to do it. However, I guess im fairly new to it all, as this is my first build (well, i've had it for a year now, but haven't modded it much), and was wondering what were these buldges in the PCI-E cables (the PSU is a Thermaltake EVO Blue 750w) as I haven't seen anyone else have those bulges when they've sleeved their cables.

Also does it matter which way the cables go into the PSU to the component?? Some of my cables have stickers on them saying "To VGA Card" "To PSU", how bad would it be to put the "To VGA Card" end in the PSU and vice versa,because if it doesn't then I could just half sleeve the cable?


----------



## cyang09

Well i only did the 20 + 4 pin sleeving so far. XD will do the rest during christmas =P and when I get my new pieces. Asus IV extreme coming into my system.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Muffin Man*


Hey guys, new to the forum, and the whole forum thing, and loving everything that's on here. I was thinking about sleeving my cables when I stumbled along this thread, which has really "inspired" me I guess to do it. However, I guess im fairly new to it all, as this is my first build (well, i've had it for a year now, but haven't modded it much), and was wondering what were these buldges in the PCI-E cables (the PSU is a Thermaltake EVO Blue 750w) as I haven't seen anyone else have those bulges when they've sleeved their cables.

Also does it matter which way the cables go into the PSU to the component?? Some of my cables have stickers on them saying "To VGA Card" "To PSU", how bad would it be to put the "To VGA Card" end in the PSU and vice versa,because if it doesn't then I could just half sleeve the cable?


Those are more than likely Filter Capacitors and they should be left where they are. Some will tell you that it's safe to remove them, but I wouldn't if I were you. If they weren't needed they wouldn't have wasted the time and expense to put them there.

And do NOT reverse the cables if they are marked to be used one way. They do that for a reason.


----------



## DTR00

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
If they weren't needed they wouldn't have wasted the time and expense to put them there.



Agreed - but people do it all the time.... seemingly to no ill effect. So does anybody know why _*they*_ spend the money to do it and why no-ones rig has blown-up yet...


----------



## PapaSmurf

It isn't just so it won't blow up. It also aids in stability. There are a LOT of people who have removed them and then had stability and picture quality problems. Most of them just don't realize that removing them is causing some of it.


----------



## The Muffin Man

So how do you individually sleeve a cable with those filter capacitors on??

Oh, and when you re-insert the individual cables into the plastic thingo (sorry i dont know the correct terms XD), does it matter if the yellow coloured cables get mixed up with the yellow coloured cables? or do they have to go in the EXACT same slot that they came out of? (just using yellow as an example.)


----------



## PapaSmurf

For the most part it shouldn't matter. The only time it would is if one had a cap and one didin't. In that case you would want to make sure you put them back in the exact same spot.

Some people who have good soldering skills will unsolder it, sleeve the rest of the cable, then resolder it back. If it's a modular cable, just come in from the psu side of the cable and sleeve up to the cap. In my opinion this is one of those instances where one would probably be better off not using individual sleeving. Just get some better quality sleeve that is large enough to sleeve the entire cable assembly. That would more than likely look better, but not everyone agrees. As far as I'm concerned anyone who thinks that neither of these options look nice needs to rethink their priorities. Stability and quality of the hardware should always come first. Looks should come second.


----------



## The Muffin Man

Agreed, hardware first, aesthetics second. Could you just get an extension cable tho? and sleeve that?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Not without sacrificing what the caps do for you. They put them there at that end for a reason. If you put an extension between them and the vid card you basically render them useless. They need to be right where they are to do what they are designed to do. One either needs to work around them being exactly where they are or take the risk of them not functioning as they were designed to work. It's as simple as that.


----------



## DTR00

@ PapaSmurf

I hear what you are saying...but.... I made my own cables (much shorter that original) and didn't bother to put those rings on.

Works great...can't see any difference (that is.. I can't tell any different).

YMWV


----------



## The Muffin Man

hmmm... thats quite interesting but strange...do most good PSU manufacturers put them on??

Heres a pic of my setup without the sides on (with and without flash).. so it looks more messy than it usually does through the window. And yes, a couple of the led's on my CM fans have died, only the 140mm ones strangely.. no idea why either..


----------



## Forsaken_id

Here's a couple pics of a Sata data cable I did for practice:
















I just ordered one of

  these to help with cutting the sleeving better to get less fray. It was about $20 shipped. I'll let all of you know how well it works and if it helps once I get it.


----------



## The Muffin Man

Wow thats cool as!!
What sleeving is that btw?


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Muffin Man*


Wow thats cool as!!
What sleeving is that btw?


Thanks, it's 1/2" Ogre from here.

The larger sizes have multifilament weave, whereas the smaller diameter is not as good looking, IMO.


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


It isn't just so it won't blow up. It also aids in stability. There are a LOT of people who have removed them and then had stability and picture quality problems. Most of them just don't realize that removing them is causing some of it.












Removed mine on my HX1000 and I haven't had any issues. It's just a chunk of metal, I cut mine off.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id*


Thanks, it's 1/2" Ogre from here.

The larger sizes have multifilament weave, whereas the smaller diameter is not as good looking, IMO.


Just use a *sharp* pair of scissors, hold the end when you cut it, then melt it slightly at the tip with a lighter. The strands will fuse themselves together and won't fray. It doesn't take much melting.


----------



## The Muffin Man

i dunno if i should, or shouldnt take them off


----------



## MisterAutomatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyang09* 
Well i only did the 20 + 4 pin sleeving so far. XD will do the rest during christmas =P and when I get my new pieces. Asus IV extreme coming into my system.










My man, clean that up, fast!


----------



## maximus20895

I like the butterfly


----------



## godofdeath

anyone got any recomendations on a cheap yet good heat gun?


----------



## maximus20895

I'm sure one from Home Depot or Lowes would be fine.


----------



## Forsaken_id

I just got one from Lowes for $25.


----------



## willieboy90

Im going to order a ****load of MDPC sleeving, but be real honoust with me.

Is sleeving really that hard and am i going to ruin alot? I've watched a few tutorials and how to's and it doesn't look like rocket sience to me...

Let me know what I'll be up to


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willieboy90* 
Im going to order a ****load of MDPC sleeving, but be real honoust with me.

Is sleeving really that hard and am i going to ruin alot? I've watched a few tutorials and how to's and it doesn't look like rocket sience to me...

Let me know what I'll be up to









No, it isn't. But making it perfect is







. Practice as much as you can on a spare PSU or wires, and try out the pre-cut shrink. Cutting it yourself is a PITA.


----------



## willieboy90

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
No, it isn't. But making it perfect is







. Practice as much as you can on a spare PSU or wires, and try out the pre-cut shrink. Cutting it yourself is a PITA.

Was thinking about getting those precut shrinks. Do they cost alot more?

Btw, what are the best ways to keep the sleeve neat and together after cutting the sleeve? Burning them is an option but are there other cheap ways? some sort of tool?


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willieboy90* 
Was thinking about getting those precut shrinks. Do they cost alot more?

Btw, what are the best ways to keep the sleeve neat and together after cutting the sleeve? Burning them is an option but are there other cheap ways? some sort of tool?

Some type of metal that heats up with a flat wide tip would work. A small blue flame really is the best thing for it IMO though. Just kiss the tip with the flame and then draw 3 fingers along the sleeve towards the tip while it's still warm. When you do that, it helps close in the tip so that when you put the shrink on, you don't have a steep edge where the sleeve ends, it's more of a smooth hill, and it looks cleaner.

I cut my own shrink. I just choose a length, cut a piece to that size, and then use that piece as a guide to cut a bunch of other pieces. I always use the guide piece I started with as a guide though, otherwise your lengths will start to vary as you cut more because you can never get them cut perfectly (damn close though, close enough to where you won't notice it).

As for when I go to shrink, I choose a mark, usually one that is on every end of the wire. For instance, I just sleeved my HX1000 and on each of the pins there are two small indented stripes going across it. I picked one and used that as my mark for my heatshrink. I always made sure that the tip of the shrink was right at that mark.

Another tip to make it look clean is to put the heatshrink on so that it goes inside the plug when you place the pin back in.


----------



## willieboy90

I think I'll just use a siccor to cut and a *torch*lighter to make the ends tight and neat.

Or is a torch lighter a stupid idea?

+Rep btw!


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willieboy90* 
I think I'll just use a siccor to cut and a *torch*lighter to make the ends tight and neat.

Or is a torch lighter a stupid idea?

+Rep btw!

I would get a small coleman torch, especially if you are doing a good bit of sleeving. Get one with a variable flow and turn it down as low as you can get it.


----------



## Shane1244

I use one of these:


----------



## DTR00

@Shane1244

LMAO


----------



## Shane1244

No joke, at around 6 inches, it gives a very nice, consistent heat, and because it stands up, you can use both hands to hold the sleeving properly.


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willieboy90* 
Im going to order a ****load of MDPC sleeving, but be real honoust with me.

Is sleeving really that hard and am i going to ruin alot? I've watched a few tutorials and how to's and it doesn't look like rocket sience to me...

Let me know what I'll be up to









It isn't rocket science, but once you start you'll soon find that it takes longer than you think and more patience than you may have suspected.
Order more than you think you'll need... otherwise you'll be annoyed when you have to wait on another order because you buggered something up.


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DTR00* 
@Shane1244

LMAO

He isn't joking, that's exactly what I use except mine is a coleman bottle/nozzle.

The variable flow makes it easy to get a very small blue flame which is perfect for doing shrink. A blue flame won't blacken the shrink like an orange flame will unless you start burning it.










This was my first attempt at sleeving an entire PSU. I have done a fan lead here and there but nothing on the order of scale that I did recently.

Edit:










Just turn the flame down.


----------



## Mailyfesux

I am single sleeving the entire psu, How can I get all the wires to fit back into that psu power cable hole? :] haha


----------



## PapaSmurf

If you sleeved the wires so that the sleeved area would be thru the hole you can try using a cable tie to compress them. But you might need to enlarge the hole to get them to fit.


----------



## willieboy90

Placed my first order at MDPC-X
You guys think it's enough?



Sleeve-kit includes:

_30 meter SMALL-Sleeve (black)
3 meter ultra-thin-walled SMALL-Heatshrink 4:1 (black)
5 meter SATA-Sleeve (black)
0.7 meter SATA-Heatshrink 3:1 (black)
2 meters BIG-Sleeve (black)
0.3 meter BIG-Heatshrink 3:1 (black)
0.2 meter JUMBO-Heatshrink 2:1 (black)_

I wan't to single sleeve my HX850. Got a total of 60 M sleeve.

(single GPU, mobo, 1 optical drive, 1 HDD, 5 fans)

Something missing, please tell me! Maybe I can adjust the order


----------



## Dilyn

I got sixty meters of small sleeve to do my whole PSU.
You won't be able to single sleeve yours if you only got 30 meters. You'll be able to do about 3/5 of it (or so), but not all of it. Start off with the most used cables first, and that way you won't run out by sleeving cables you aren't using.


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willieboy90* 
Placed my first order at MDPC-X
You guys think it's enough?



Sleeve-kit includes:

_30 meter SMALL-Sleeve (black)
3 meter ultra-thin-walled SMALL-Heatshrink 4:1 (black)
5 meter SATA-Sleeve (black)
0.7 meter SATA-Heatshrink 3:1 (black)
2 meters BIG-Sleeve (black)
0.3 meter BIG-Heatshrink 3:1 (black)
0.2 meter JUMBO-Heatshrink 2:1 (black)_

I wan't to single sleeve my HX850. Got a total of 60 M sleeve.

(single GPU, mobo, 1 optical drive, 1 HDD, 5 fans)

Something missing, please tell me! Maybe I can adjust the order









It's a good amount, it all depends on how much you need to sleeve though. Different PSU's have different length cables, just measure them and multiply them by the number of wires and add about 2 meters to that to be sure.

You can always order more, just try not to make too many separate orders or your shipping costs will build up.


----------



## willieboy90

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
I got sixty meters of small sleeve to do my whole PSU.
You won't be able to single sleeve yours if you only got 30 meters. You'll be able to do about 3/5 of it (or so), but not all of it. Start off with the most used cables first, and that way you won't run out by sleeving cables you aren't using.

I order a kit + 30 meters extra









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shrimpykins* 
It's a good amount, it all depends on how much you need to sleeve though. Different PSU's have different length cables, just measure them and multiply them by the number of wires and add about 2 meters to that to be sure.

You can always order more, just try not to make too many separate orders or your shipping costs will build up.

I measured (found) all the cable lentghs and i need 55M in total, when i sleeve the PSU including al modular cables. So for the first components this will be enough then!

Thx!


----------



## Dilyn

Ah gotcha!
Then you should have enough mate









Good luck, be sure to post pics.


----------



## willieboy90

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dilyn* 
Ah gotcha!
Then you should have enough mate









Good luck, be sure to post pics.

will do


----------



## esproductions

Any ideas on what color sleeving to get? I was leaning towards red at first, for a white/red medic look, but I'm thinking of black now... but black seems so boring and common. Ideas would be appreciated, thanks.


----------



## Morizuno

black with some white

It might be a tad difficult to sleeve that particular psu though


----------



## SimpleTech

I'm thinking the opposite - white with some black.

By the way nice cable management, esproductions.









-----

I think I have most of my cables sleeved by now. I find the black 3-pin headers look a lot better than white or beige.


----------



## The Muffin Man

I would do blue and black, or white, depending on ure taste.
That way the blue matches the motherboard and the black matches the H50, or the white matches the case


----------



## willieboy90

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
I'm thinking the opposite - white with some black.

By the way nice cable management, esproductions.









-----

I think I have most of my cables sleeved by now. I find the black 3-pin headers look a lot better than white or beige.


Looking good !

I've ordered some of these black connectors from MDPC. Can't stand those beige things either!

What sleeving do you use and do you have more pictures? Looks like good quality!


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *esproductions* 
Any ideas on what color sleeving to get? I was leaning towards red at first, for a white/red medic look, but I'm thinking of black now... but black seems so boring and common. Ideas would be appreciated, thanks.










I have a feeling a purple and white theme would go pretty well, but maybe thats just me


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


Originally Posted by *esproductions* 
Any ideas on what color sleeving to get? I was leaning towards red at first, for a white/red medic look, but I'm thinking of black now... but black seems so boring and common. Ideas would be appreciated, thanks.









Black or black with white would be cheaper probably, but I like your idea of red.


----------



## loop0001

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MijnWraak* 
I have a feeling a purple and white theme would go pretty well, but maybe thats just me










Quote:


Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id* 
Black or black with white would be cheaper probably, but I like your idea of red.

not so sure on the purple.

already have black and white in there as a base. but then a good amount of blue and also red in there.

my vote goes for red to match the video card..
black would be to... ambiguous..just seems that it wouldnt show very well.
not white since the case is already blazingly white..


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willieboy90* 
Looking good !

I've ordered some of these black connectors from MDPC. Can't stand those beige things either!

What sleeving do you use and do you have more pictures? Looks like good quality!

Thanks.

I am using Techflex _Flexo Clean Cut_. Will order some more as I am thinking about sleeving my parents' Antec PSU.

I'll post some more pictures later.


----------



## SimpleTech

I bought a cheap kit when I first started to sleeve about 2 years ago. The cable you see on the left is from the kit and the one on the right is Kobra High-Density sleeving I bought from Koolertek.


----------



## esproductions

Quote:


Originally Posted by *esproductions* 
Any ideas on what color sleeving to get? I was leaning towards red at first, for a white/red medic look, but I'm thinking of black now... but black seems so boring and common. Ideas would be appreciated, thanks.


















Thanks for the suggestion guys. I decided to go with black extensions with blue highlights, although I must say, gold was tempting LOL.


----------



## Copenhagen69

you started wiring yet?


----------



## esproductions

Ordered the sleeves from Furry Letters, hopefully get them within a few days and I'll do it this weekend.


----------



## koven

anyone know where i can buy pre sleeved pci-e/atx cables?


----------



## Emerican

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=28558


----------



## esproductions

Quote:



Originally Posted by *koven*


anyone know where i can buy pre sleeved pci-e/atx cables?


You can buy the NZXT sleeved extensions. You can buy them at Amazon, NCIX, Newegg


----------



## PapaSmurf

And SVC who has free shipping for a lot of it.


----------



## koven

thanks

i know it's a minor detail , but i cant decide between modright(white heatstrink) and nzxt (black heatshrink)

modright









vs

nzxt









any suggestions? my tubing will be white primochill 7/16", will also have white nzxt case fans 140mm, not sure if im going overboard with the white so im thinking the nzxt?


----------



## esproductions

I think the NZXT black heat shrink looks alot better.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

:O They use SO much heatshrink! But the NZXT is probably the more bearable of the two haha


----------



## esproductions

I'm getting a bunch of NZXT extensions in a couple of days... maybe I'll post an unboxing video lol.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


Originally Posted by *koven* 
thanks

i know it's a minor detail , but i cant decide between modright(white heatstrink) and nzxt (black heatshrink)

modright

vs

nzxt

any suggestions? my tubing will be white primochill 7/16", will also have white nzxt case fans 140mm, not sure if im going overboard with the white so im thinking the nzxt?


I really really like that case but it's so friggin expensive.. how is the airflow in that case anyhow? There aren't any fan intakes?


----------



## Zeke311

Well, ... here I am - ready to get down to business (sleeving). BUT, as usual, a million things are running through my mind. OK, maybe like 3. So here it goes ...

BEFORE I found out about sleeving, cable management, etc., I had already purchased my PSU. The supplyâ€™s 24-pin is NOT modular. Returning/exchanging it is not an option this time around, â€¦ so my question is: what is the best way I should tackle sleeving this collection of wires? I can open the PSU, but I would rather not. Should I slide the sleeving all the way up to grommet & terminate it, shrink it, & go on to the next wire? Should I try to shove an inch or so of sleeving into the case & hope it does not spring back out over time? Another idea? ***(I have all sorts of sizes, lengths, & shrink, etc., so almost ANY idea I should be able to implement.)***

I will stop at this one question & see if I get any feedback.

Also, I have intentions of custom-fitting this power supply to my case/motherboard - I have the new crimps, crimper tool, & new 24-pin molex adapter, in case I cannot get ALL the original female pins out cleanly & therefore cannot re-use the original adapter.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zeke311*


Well, ... here I am - ready to get down to business (sleeving). BUT, as usual, a million things are running through my mind. OK, maybe like 3. So here it goes ...

BEFORE I found out about sleeving, cable management, etc., I had already purchased my PSU. The supplyâ€™s 24-pin is NOT modular. Returning/exchanging it is not an option this time around, â€¦ so my question is: what is the best way I should tackle sleeving this collection of wires? I can open the PSU, but I would rather not. Should I slide the sleeving all the way up to grommet & terminate it, shrink it, & go on to the next wire? Should I try to shove an inch or so of sleeving into the case & hope it does not spring back out over time? Another idea? ***(I have all sorts of sizes, lengths, & shrink, etc., so almost ANY idea I should be able to implement.)***

I will stop at this one question & see if I get any feedback.

Also, I have intentions of custom-fitting this power supply to my case/motherboard - I have the new crimps, crimper tool, & new 24-pin molex adapter, in case I cannot get ALL the original female pins out cleanly & therefore cannot re-use the original adapter.


The cleanest way to do it in my opinion is to have a piece of tube sleeve to sleeve a few centimeters of the 24pin as it comes out of the unit. You would still single sleeve every cable, but you would heatshrink it just where the tube sleeve finishes and then use some tube heatshrink to tidily cover up the shrink on each individual wire. I suggest this only because it is very unlikely to be able to fit 24 sleeves into the tiny hole coming out of the back of the case. You typically have to widen the hole or do the method I mentioned. You could be one of the lucky ones to fit it all in though. Who knows?!


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

MDPC-X > NZXT!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r*


MDPC-X > NZXT!




























Martin, you have been my inspiration for persevering with my awful PSU trying to sleeve even just the CPU power cable as my first attempt at sleeving.


----------



## Morizuno

hey guys, I would just like to know what crimping is and if I need it to sleeve me x650 psu


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

I'm honored Krissy


----------



## digital_steve

Martin = Sleeve God


----------



## Dilyn

He makes me feel so inferior









But that only makes me want to try harder


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Really having trouble getting one of the pins from the CPU power cable out... Have jiggled, wiggled, rotated and pushed and pulled on the cable, have been applying pressure on the tool whilst pulling strongly on the cable. Even tried twisting the pin remover tool a little but to no avail. I'm honestly stumped on how to get this one out. Just doesn't seem to want to come out! Any suggestions would be appreciated.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Push the pin up, and make sure you depress the little "flaps", then pull.

If you look into the wire you'll see what I'm talking about (hopefully)


----------



## mastical

Needle nose pliers n pull that sucker. I had a few like that before.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*


Push the pin up, and make sure you depress the little "flaps", then pull.

If you look into the wire you'll see what I'm talking about (hopefully)


That's what I'm doing







It isn't coming out. Starting to wonder if the pin remover's tapered ends aren't going to cut it with this cheap **** power supply.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Hmmm, have you tried other pins on there?

Try pushing the cable up and down to loosen it up.

I had the hardest time trying to get out a molex, just took a bit of patience.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*


Hmmm, have you tried other pins on there?

Try pushing the cable up and down to loosen it up.

I had the hardest time trying to get out a molex, just took a bit of patience.


It's the last one I've got left to do on the 8-pin CPU power cable. The rest have resisted but I managed them far more easily than this one.


----------



## Ragsters

What size sleeving and heatshrink should I get for my new Yates? I don't want them individually sleeved, just big enough for the three wires.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


What size sleeving and heatshrink should I get for my new Yates? I don't want them individually sleeved, just big enough for the three wires.


1/8" sleeving, 3/16" heatshrink


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


1/8" sleeving, 3/16" heatshrink


Thanks!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


It's the last one I've got left to do on the 8-pin CPU power cable. The rest have resisted but I managed them far more easily than this one.


Try heating up the connector with a heat gun or hair dryer just before you remove the pin. That sometimes helps. Just don't use a lighter or flame type heat source so you don't discolor or melt the plastic.


----------



## Zeke311

@spiderm0nker, digital_steve, & Dilyn - I *completely* agree with your assessments of Mr. Crys1s_Gam3r. As far as I am concerned, Martin







's everyone else ... at least for the time being.









And as for his thoughts of "MDPC-X > NZXT!", he could NOT be more on target!


----------



## The Muffin Man

ARghh I hate you Martin!! I was thinking about doing blue and black for my case and that looks sick!! (think i got a couple of pics of my system somewere on this thread), but i dont want to take off those capacitors or noise filters or whatever they are on the PCI-E cables :/:/:/ Any way to get around it???


----------



## MisterAutomatic

can anyone tell me where to order pre-cut heat shrink from in the US? Having a hard time finding a place.


----------



## Lost-boi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MisterAutomatic* 
can anyone tell me where to order pre-cut heat shrink from in the US? Having a hard time finding a place.

Lazy or dont trust yourself?
Just buy heatshrink and then cut it. Its not really that hard to cut the shrink cleanly.


----------



## MisterAutomatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lost-boi* 
Lazy or dont trust yourself?
Just buy heatshrink and then cut it. Its not really that hard to cut the shrink cleanly.

Wow, you must have missed me post the picture of my sleeving. Here let me get that for ya...



















so yeah like I was asking before, where can I get pre-cut heat shrink so my finished product looks more uniform than cutting it free handed?


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MisterAutomatic* 
Wow, you must have missed me post the picture of my sleeving. Here let me get that for ya...



















so yeah like I was asking before, where can I get pre-cut heat shrink so my finished product looks more uniform than cutting it free handed?

MDPC, you still need to be able to shrink them in the exact place on each wire, which requires a little bit of skill/planning. Pick a spot that has a mark on each pin and use that as a point to know where to place the shrink. But yeah, MDPC sells pre-cut shrinks in packs of 50.


----------



## MisterAutomatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shrimpykins* 
MDPC, you still need to be able to shrink them in the exact place on each wire, which requires a little bit of skill/planning. Pick a spot that has a mark on each pin and use that as a point to know where to place the shrink. But yeah, MDPC sells pre-cut shrinks in packs of 50.

Yeah I came up with a nifty little way of placing them so they all fall in the same spot







. Thanks Shrimpykins. +1


----------



## Ragsters

I know you guys are all about MDPC-X sleeving but what I can't afford that stuff right now. Does anyone have any experience with Frys stuff? I want to start sleeving my Yates today.
http://www.frys.com/product/2281378?...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ragsters* 
I know you guys are all about MDPC-X sleeving but what I can't afford that stuff right now. Does anyone have any experience with Frys stuff? I want to start sleeving my Yates today.
http://www.frys.com/product/2281378?...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG

It's Techflex "Clean Cut" and it is what I use for all my wires/cables. Very easy to work with and much cheaper than MDPC-X.

Barry, aka FurryLetters, sells 100ft for $17. Link


----------



## soilentblue

for those that bought from MDPC and live in the states, how long did it take take from the time you submitted the order? I'd order today if it meant I could get it here(louisiana) in like a week.


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soilentblue* 
for those that bought from MDPC and live in the states, how long did it take take from the time you submitted the order? I'd order today if it meant I could get it here(louisiana) in like a week.

Heh, no way, LA native here too bud (Baton Rouge), I order all my sleeve from MDPC-X and it doesn't take too long. I think it was like 3-4 business days for my last order.


----------



## soilentblue

nice! i'm in br one or twice a month. lafayette bound over here. glad it doesn't take long to come in. +rep


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
It's Techflex "Clean Cut" and it is what I use for all my wires/cables. Very easy to work with and much cheaper than MDPC-X.

Barry, aka FurryLetters, sells 100ft for $17. Link

Thanks a lot! What about size of crimper? I just bought one at Frys wirh a. 062" pin diam. Terminal. Will that work?


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soilentblue*


for those that bought from MDPC and live in the states, how long did it take take from the time you submitted the order? I'd order today if it meant I could get it here(louisiana) in like a week.


Ordered mine on the ninth of October and it came in about two or three weeks later.


----------



## [email protected]

I wish MPC would do local area instead of International and it costs more money. I want their product but i cannot afford it.


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


I know you guys are all about MDPC-X sleeving but what I can't afford that stuff right now. Does anyone have any experience with Frys stuff? I want to start sleeving my Yates today.
http://www.frys.com/product/2281378?...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG


Poor man pays twice... i'd hate to see you sleeve your rig then do it all over again when you want decent colours.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soilentblue*


for those that bought from MDPC and live in the states, how long did it take take from the time you submitted the order? I'd order today if it meant I could get it here(louisiana) in like a week.


I live in Oz and it can take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


I wish MPC would do local area instead of International and it costs more money. I want their product but i cannot afford it.


It's a one person business... a bit hard to be all things to all people


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


Thanks a lot! What about size of crimper? I just bought one at Frys wirh a. 062" pin diam. Terminal. Will that work?


As long as it can crimp wire from 18-24 AWG you will be fine.


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dilyn*


Ordered mine on the ninth of October and it came in about two or three weeks later.


I think it all depends on how long they hold it up in customs. I ordered a family pack and I can say for sure that it took no more than 5 business days.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shrimpykins*


I think it all depends on how long they hold it up in customs. I ordered a family pack and I can say for sure that it took no more than 5 business days.


Absolutely. When I ordered from MDPC the first time, it took 3 weeks to arrive. Ever since, it has only been a week to 2 weeks at the most. I guess the guys as customs are becoming accustomed to seeing sleeve in New Zealand now


----------



## Ragsters

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*   As long as it can crimp wire from 18-24 AWG you will be fine.  
It works but it is not the greatest. Well I guess you get what you pay ($13) for. I have another question. How do you take off a male fan connector that looks like this.
  Amazon.com: Syba SY-CAB65007 3 Pin Female to 2 x 3 Pin Male Connectors Fan Power Extension Y Cable (7.75 Inches): Electronics I want to sleeve my Y cable.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


It works but it is not the greatest. Well I guess you get what you pay ($13) for. I have another question. How do you take off a male fan connector that looks like this.
Amazon.com: Syba SY-CAB65007 3 Pin Female to 2 x 3 Pin Male Connectors Fan Power Extension Y Cable (7.75 Inches): Electronics
I want to sleeve my Y cable.


Ahh, okay. Normally I would not share images that I haven't made however my computer is no longer in action (power supply is sitting next to me







) and I don't have Photoshop or Paint etc on the other computers in my house(stripped versions of XP), so here is a picture for you.









Credit for this image goes to Heiko, aka Tobi.

When you look into the connector, you should be able to see each of the pins. All you need to do is get a staple or a pin and push into the underside of each pin and they should come out. A staple is best as they seem to be just the right size. Let us know if it works out okay for you


----------



## SimpleTech

Or you can use the end of a paper clip, I find it easier since it's longer and won't bend as easily.

They're really easy to remove. I did all three of my Koolance harnesses in under 2 hours (with breaks).


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Ahh, okay. Normally I would not share images that I haven't made however my computer is no longer in action (power supply is sitting next to me







) and I don't have Photoshop or Paint etc on the other computers in my house(stripped versions of XP), so here is a picture for you.









Credit for this image goes to Heiko, aka Tobi.

When you look into the connector, you should be able to see each of the pins. All you need to do is get a staple or a pin and push into the underside of each pin and they should come out. A staple is best as they seem to be just the right size. Let us know if it works out okay for you










I can't get it to come off. Are you sure this is the same connector I was referring to?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


I can't get it to come off. Are you sure this is the same connector I was referring to?


Yep. Got the picture from another forum where a person posted a picture of the exact same cable. Another person vouched for that method also, mentioning he'd done many of those connectors using that method and it worked. It may just be that you've got some tough ones.


----------



## Morizuno

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Morizuno*


hey guys, I would just like to know what crimping is and if I need it to sleeve me x650 psu


still wondering


----------



## SimpleTech

Ragsters, push the wire inwards while putting the staple/paperclip inside the hole. That will force the pin to move downwards allowing the wire to slide out of the connector.

*Edit*

Morizuno, refer to this link (has pictures that also help explain).

You don't need to crimp anything unless you accidentally break a pin or cut a piece of wire.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Yep. Got the picture from another forum where a person posted a picture of the exact same cable. Another person vouched for that method also, mentioning he'd done many of those connectors using that method and it worked. It may just be that you've got some tough ones.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


Ragsters, push the wire inwards while putting the staple/paperclip inside the hole. That will force the pin to move downwards allowing the wire to slide out of the connector.

*Edit*

Morizuno, refer to this link (has pictures that also help explain).

You don't need to crimp anything unless you accidentally break a pin or cut a piece of wire.


I got it guys! Thanks so much! + rep for both of you.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


I got it guys! Thanks so much! + rep for both of you.


Good work







It's a great feeling to finally get a pin out after trying for a while.


----------



## Ragsters

Today, with the help from you guys, I sleeved 2 fan extensions, 4 high speed Yates and a fan Y cable.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


Today, with the help from you guys, I sleeved 2 fan extensions, 4 high speed Yates and a fan Y cable.










Good Job Bud!







It becomes quite the obsession after a while.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


Today, with the help from you guys, I sleeved 2 fan extensions, 4 high speed Yates and a fan Y cable.


















:

Once you get the first few done it's starts to get easier.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


Today, with the help from you guys, I sleeved 2 fan extensions, 4 high speed Yates and a fan Y cable.










That's great!! Any injuries at all? First thing I did was slice my thumb on an ATX pin when I started trying to sleeve the CPU power cable 2 days ago


----------



## Onions

quick question? so im gonan sleeve my psu soon can i sleeve the 6pin for my gpus together it will be 3 way sli soon just an fyi.. like you can do with the hdd cables and such.. if not could i split it before it gets to the psu so i can pull from two rails??


----------



## D0U8L3M

hey guys can mdpc sleeving fit 2 wires i think if i did 2 wires in each sleeve(the ones across from each other) it would make it a bit more simplistic and save me some money on sleeving lol im guessing i would just have to make sure that the heatshrink could fir over the very end with the 2 heatshrinked wires there. any suggestions?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *D0U8L3M*


hey guys can mdpc sleeving fit 2 wires i think if i did 2 wires in each sleeve(the ones across from each other) it would make it a bit more simplistic and save me some money on sleeving lol im guessing i would just have to make sure that the heatshrink could fir over the very end with the 2 heatshrinked wires there. any suggestions?


I tried it and didn't like it at all. It looks a lot messier than single sleeving each individual wire, because you can't have the heatshrink going up into the connector. Means that you can always see part of the wire underneath just behind the connectors. The MDPC sleeve can fit two wires at a stretch and if you don't mind being able to see some of the wire, then go for it


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


I tried it and didn't like it at all. It looks a lot messier than single sleeving each individual wire, because you can't have the heatshrink going up into the connector. Means that you can always see part of the wire underneath just behind the connectors. The MDPC sleeve can fit two wires at a stretch and if you don't mind being able to see some of the wire, then go for it










Simple solution to that is to heatshrink that last inch or so of each wire where it would go into the connector PRIOR to sleeving the two wires. Then the part that sticks out would all be the same color.


----------



## D0U8L3M

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Simple solution to that is to heatshrink that last inch or so of each wire where it would go into the connector PRIOR to sleeving the two wires. Then the part that sticks out would all be the same color.


thats what i was thinking, i think the hard part would be trying to get the heatshrink as short as possible while still being able to hold the sleeve in place


----------



## Onions

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Onions* 
quick question? so im gonan sleeve my psu soon can i sleeve the 6pin for my gpus together it will be 3 way sli soon just an fyi.. like you can do with the hdd cables and such.. if not could i split it before it gets to the psu so i can pull from two rails??

can i get an answer


----------



## D0U8L3M

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Onions* 
can i get an answer

i dont think that would work, from my understanding powersupplies are designed for one por to be going to one cable to the graphics card, if you want to "merge" two separate cables with sleeving it could work, if you know what i mean.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Onions* 
quick question? so im gonan sleeve my psu soon can i sleeve the 6pin for my gpus together it will be 3 way sli soon just an fyi.. like you can do with the hdd cables and such.. if not could i split it before it gets to the psu so i can pull from two rails??

That question would be better off in the PSU section of this forum as it involves wiring changes. You should start your own thread there with as much detail as possible about the wiring changes you would like to make with the specific PSU you will be using. While you can sleeve it any way you want as long as you keep the wires in the same places of the connectors, once you start changing the actual wiring all bets are off.


----------



## D0U8L3M

I think he just wants something like this









srry all i have and know how to use to make mock ups are paint, and my hands and a piece of paper lol


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:


Originally Posted by *D0U8L3M* 
I think he just wants something like this









srry all i have and know how to use to make mock ups are paint, and my hands and a piece of paper lol


----------



## D0U8L3M

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69* 









lmao nice


----------



## Onions

yea that will work the way i intended it will just be thicker then i thought


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

Thanks guys


----------



## reaper~

^ Nice work as usual, Martin.









This might benefit someone here. Koolertek is having a promotion for 50% off on all Kobra sleeving, tonight only through 12AM PST. Code is SLEEVE50.

Just thought I pass it along.


----------



## D0U8L3M

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Onions* 
yea that will work the way i intended it will just be thicker then i thought

cool if u need any help feel free to ask and keep us updated lol


----------



## Forsaken_id

I said I'd report on my

  this I ordered and it finally came in. It is at least 100 times better than using a lighter to cut sleeving for me. I just used the rope cutter end and the 30W setting. No more fraying and just under $20 shipped.


----------



## Ragsters

What do you guys use for sata data sleeving?


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ragsters* 
What do you guys use for sata data sleeving?

I used 3/8" sleeving and whatever shrink i had that just barely fit over the straight end of my cables (not sure on size).


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ragsters* 
What do you guys use for sata data sleeving?

Most here use the MDPC-X SATA sleeve and heatshrink.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Most here use the MDPC-X SATA sleeve and heatshrink.


Does anyone have some they can sell me? Enough for like 2-4 cables.


----------



## [email protected]

Hmm if anyone has UV reactive already sleeved ATX Connectors, PCI-E 6 pins (2) of them and also a molex 4 pin.. hit me up. I doubt it. Might have to order.

Oh they gotta be extensions


----------



## MijnWraak

Did my first cable with white sleeve and white shrink. Surprisingly easy to not leave any residue on the shrink! Just gotta keep the tip of the flame off of it and in constant rotation and you're set.


----------



## skwannabe

For the individual 6-pin cords and the 24-pin cords, what size is everyone sleeving it? Looks like 1/8 is alittle big. 3/32?

I bought 20ft 1/8 sleeves from frys today along with a kit of heat shrinks. I sleeved three 120mm fans until I got to my 200mm... Two wires got cut off from the fan's circuit board. So I'm guessing I have to resolder it or just buy a new one...?

Thanks.


----------



## Mailyfesux

done! :]


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *skwannabe* 
For the individual 6-pin cords and the 24-pin cords, what size is everyone sleeving it? Looks like 1/8 is alittle big. 3/32?

I bought 20ft 1/8 sleeves from frys today along with a kit of heat shrinks. I sleeved three 120mm fans until I got to my 200mm... Two wires got cut off from the fan's circuit board. So I'm guessing I have to resolder it or just buy a new one...?

Thanks.

See the very first post in the thread for the answer to the first question. If the stuff you got from Frys is too big it's probably the cheap stuff. The better stuff from MDPC-X, KoolerTek Kobra, or the Clean Cut Black from Furry Letters wouldn't have that problem. Either that or you are sleeving a cheap PSU with wires that are smaller than normal.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


See the very first post in the thread for the answer to the first question. If the stuff you got from Frys is too big it's probably the cheap stuff. The better stuff from MDPC-X, KoolerTek Kobra, or the Clean Cut Black from Furry Letters wouldn't have that problem. Either that or you are sleeving a cheap PSU with wires that are smaller than normal.


The stuff from Frys is the same stuff from Furry Letters.


----------



## skwannabe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
See the very first post in the thread for the answer to the first question. If the stuff you got from Frys is too big it's probably the cheap stuff. The better stuff from MDPC-X, KoolerTek Kobra, or the Clean Cut Black from Furry Letters wouldn't have that problem. Either that or you are sleeving a cheap PSU with wires that are smaller than normal.

Oook cool thanks.

Any guides on sleeving the front audio cords?

Thanks

-edit-

So I finally got the pins out of the 6 pin cord. I used 1/8 sleeving with 3/16 heatshrink. But it seems the heatshrink is not sticking onto the cord it self and I can't place it back into the thing(?). So I'm guessing I have to use 1/8 heatshrink also, but I couldn't get that heat shrink on top of sleeving.

any advice? Thanks


----------



## wermad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


The stuff from Frys is the same stuff from Furry Letters.


It at first glance it may seem so, but no. I did my first psu w/ the stuff from Fry's and my new psu from Furry, and Furry has a slight shine to it, the Fry's stuff is bit more matte black if you would. Material wise its about the same density though Furry tends to fray a bit more than the frys stuff.

btw, NZXT makes a sleeved sata extension:


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wermad* 
It at first glance it may seem so, but no. I did my first psu w/ the stuff from Fry's and my new psu from Furry, and Furry has a slight shine to it, the Fry's stuff is bit more matte black if you would. Material wise its about the same density though Furry tends to fray a bit more than the frys stuff.

btw, NZXT makes a sleeved sata extension:

Hey, thanks for that. I knew about their extensions but I would rather spend a little more and get all my sata cables sleeved.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id*


I used 3/8" sleeving and whatever shrink i had that just barely fit over the straight end of my cables (not sure on size).


I guess the next step would be 1/2". Anyway frys does not sell 3/8" sleeving and I was hoping to get it there.


----------



## top5designs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nafljhy;8377085*
> here is another project i did:
> the pcie connectors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the SATA connectors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the shortened molex connectors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the 8pin EPS connector
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and of course the 24 pin atx connector
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and all of it zip tied and getting it ready to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the molex extensions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the 8pin extension
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the molex Y splitter.


that has got the be the worst sleeve job ive ever seen...dont short cut things.


----------



## top5designs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;11632841*
> I guess the next step would be 1/2". Anyway frys does not sell 3/8" sleeving and I was hoping to get it there.


FRYS has some nice quality stuff, but yeah they dont have 3/8'


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *top5designs;11646328*
> that has got the be the worst sleeve job ive ever seen...dont short cut things.


Man i hate you.. that's probably the same psu i have. Now i wanna sleeve mine with superhero colors like yours. Yea they are SUPERHERO sleeves.

Do mine?


----------



## top5designs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MisterAutomatic;8406449*
> Just a couple right now, but I will return with more, since ya'll getting thugnificent with the pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i dont like the huge heat shrink


----------



## top5designs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11646544*
> Man i hate you.. that's probably the same psu i have. Now i wanna sleeve mine with superhero colors like yours. Yea they are SUPERHERO sleeves.
> 
> Do mine?


lol for a price


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad;11622678*
> It at first glance it may seem so, but no. I did my first psu w/ the stuff from Fry's and my new psu from Furry, and Furry has a slight shine to it, the Fry's stuff is bit more matte black if you would. Material wise its about the same density though Furry tends to fray a bit more than the frys stuff.
> 
> btw, NZXT makes a sleeved sata extension:


Now if only they had a 3ft one with a right angle on it positioned for the cord to go straight down when the right angle is plugged in...







I need 3.

I finally found someone who sells a 3ft with the correct right angle connector on it, nowhere can I find a sleeved one though.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *top5designs;11646328*
> that has got the be the worst sleeve job ive ever seen...dont short cut things.


That kind of sleeve job looks as though it was done about 3-4 years ago when high quality sleeve was not really available and the aesthetics of a nice sleeve job had not been nutted out yet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *top5designs;11646555*
> 
> i dont like the huge heat shrink


Do you have any positive things to say? Your first two posts in this thread and you've been nothing but negative...


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;11646935*
> That kind of sleeve job looks as though it was done about 3-4 years ago when high quality sleeve was not really available and the aesthetics of a nice sleeve job had not been nutted out yet.
> 
> Do you have any positive things to say? Your first two posts in this thread and you've been nothing but negative...


He made one... It was a double post though.









I agree though, let's keep things positive in this thread, it makes it more enjoyable, and let's also not let these comments get whipped up into a whirlwind of OT.

More back on topic - I am considering those NZXT SATA extensions... I just don't know if the sleeve will match what I already have and I only need SATA extensions... Or at least NOW I only need SATA extensions... The only thing that turns me off is that I would have to buy two of them for each SATA data cable I would need....


----------



## goldbranch

What do you guys think about those NZXT premium cables that already sleeved? 
Are they any good?


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goldbranch;11650994*
> What do you guys think about those NZXT premium cables that already sleeved?
> Are they any good?


The sleeving they use isn't the best, but for the price, they can't be beat (Modright ones are great too).

If you are using the extentions for 6 pin or 6+2 pin video power, the Modright ones are longer by at about 2 inches compared to the NZXT.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id;11654664*
> The sleeving they use isn't the best, but for the price, they can't be beat (Modright ones are great too).
> 
> If you are using the extentions for 6 pin or 6+2 pin video power, the Modright ones are longer by at about 2 inches compared to the NZXT.


Actually I am not sure if that is true. The last time I checked the NZXT ones actually comes in two sizes. I believe it is 250mm and 450mm.


----------



## esproductions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goldbranch;11650994*
> What do you guys think about those NZXT premium cables that already sleeved?
> Are they any good?


Using them now... I'm gonna try and change some of the sleeves to get it a nice offset colour later.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goldbranch;11650994*
> What do you guys think about those NZXT premium cables that already sleeved?
> Are they any good?


good and bad

too much heatshrink
would be easier if you wanted some wiht a lot of black red or white?


----------



## kr3w561

Ok.

After reading almost ALL 290 pages of this thread I decided I'm going to sleeve almost everything inside my case. You guys got me really hyped on this stuff. I do have a couple of questions that although I've read answers I'm not completely sure about.

1) In my HAF X the 8 pin mobo power is nowhere near long enough so I have to use an extension. I really want to get rid of it. The Ultra PSU's are pretty generic in cabling what's the easiest way for me to get rid of the extension. (I don't wanna solder cables)

2) Is it worth it to sleeve SATA power and regular sata cables since only one of them sticks in front of my mobo tray. (I probably will do it anyways out of impulse.)

3) The front panel connectors. Will I be able to sleeve them and heatshrink over the connector tips (So no wire shows) and still be able to plug them all in evenly.

4) For my front panel USB, Firewire and Headphone/Microphone can I just sleeve all those into a single 1/8th cable and use the MDPC Sata heatshrink since it seems excessive to single wrap each one of those cables.

Btw my order is
-100ft clean cut from furryletters
-60ft Red MDPC small sleeve
-4M black heatshrink
-2M Red heatshrink
-1M Sata heatshrink

Thanks in advance.
=]


----------



## PapaSmurf

You could cut the 8 pin mobo power connector wires right at the connector and the extension right at the connector that connects to it then splice them using non-insulated butt connectors that you crimp on. Put a piece of heatshrink over the butt connector then sleeve over it. Now you have a longer 8pin cable. Something like this in the appropriate size.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103494


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kr3w561*


Ok.

1) In my HAF X the 8 pin mobo power is nowhere near long enough so I have to use an extension. I really want to get rid of it. The Ultra PSU's are pretty generic in cabling what's the easiest way for me to get rid of the extension. (I don't wanna solder cables)

The way I used to do it before I started soldering cables was to cut about 5cm away from the connector, stripping back a little bit on each end of the wire, adding in another long piece of wire (with the ends stripped) and twisting the exposed ends together and taping it up.

2) Is it worth it to sleeve SATA power and regular sata cables since only one of them sticks in front of my mobo tray. (I probably will do it anyways out of impulse.)

Depends on the case usually but you might as well purely for consistency.

3) The front panel connectors. Will I be able to sleeve them and heatshrink over the connector tips (So no wire shows) and still be able to plug them all in evenly.

Yep







You usually can't fit all of them into one 1/8" sleeve but it still works fine having them split into 2.

4) For my front panel USB, Firewire and Headphone/Microphone can I just sleeve all those into a single 1/8th cable and use the MDPC Sata heatshrink since it seems excessive to single wrap each one of those cables.

The USB for the front panel is usually quite bulky and too large to fit in the 1/8" sleeve. MDPC sells USB sleeve specifically but I just used SATA sleeve at the time.

Btw my order is 
-100ft clean cut from furryletters
-60ft Red MDPC small sleeve
-4M black heatshrink
-2M Red heatshrink
-1M Sata heatshrink

Looks like a solid order









Thanks in advance.
=]


Answers in red. Hopefully that is helpful!


----------



## kr3w561

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;11670734*
> Answers in red. Hopefully that is helpful!


Spider I'd rather save the extra 8 bucks on that USB cabling. I may just do the same thing you suggested as the front panel connectors and split the cable into two pieces of sleeving and seal it with the Sata Shrink. Would that be viable? And if it's not asking too much do you have a pic if you've ever tried that? and a small series of pics with your fix for the cables I follow the idea, I can't say I'm 100% confident in doing it just by following words =\


----------



## esproductions

I did an unboxing video for the NZXT sleeved extensions LOL. It's my first video and I didn't think of what to say before hand so yeah.... but let me know what you guys think.


----------



## Morizuno

hey guys, my psu and sleeving came.

It's a black and red combination. Can some color sleeve pattern guru type a diagram for me to follow?

Here's the rig










Also, is the sunbeam psu modding kit any good?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Morizuno*


Also, is the sunbeam psu modding kit any good?


If you mean sleeving kit, then no. EXTREMELY low quality sleeve that has a very loose weave that allows the wires to show through. Total waste of money and time.

If that isn't what you are referring to please post a link so we would know specifically which one you are asking about.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


If you mean sleeving kit, then no. EXTREMELY low quality sleeve that has a very loose weave that allows the wires to show through. Total waste of money and time.

If that isn't what you are referring to please post a link so we would know specifically which one you are asking about.


Sunbeam doesn't sell a sleeving kit.

They have a PSU Modding Kit that actually isn't terrible. Though it's a low quality steel. Kinda easy to break.

The Lamptron kit is better.


----------



## PapaSmurf

They must have discontinued the sleeving kit then as my daughter purchased one a few years ago that was terrible. The sleeve made the cheap PET look good.


----------



## koven




----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


They must have discontinued the sleeving kit then as my daughter purchased one a few years ago that was terrible. The sleeve made the cheap PET look good.


I've never seen it.

I've seen their PSU change-over kits. Which is just UV Connectors.


----------



## un-nefer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *koven*












Looking good









Also, OT and sorry, but I'm considering that same mainboard man, and I have a three questions for you;
1. Have you done any overclocking on it yet? 
2. How much vdroop do you experience?
3. What's your highest overclock and what vcore was needed?


----------



## Morizuno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;11673506*
> They must have discontinued the sleeving kit then as my daughter purchased one a few years ago that was terrible. The sleeve made the cheap PET look good.


no. I have mdpc-x sleeving, I was asking about the sunbeam psu tools to take out the pins and stuff


----------



## Lost-boi

Ive used the sunbeam tools to work on 4 PSUs now and its still going strong.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kr3w561*


Spider I'd rather save the extra 8 bucks on that USB cabling. I may just do the same thing you suggested as the front panel connectors and split the cable into two pieces of sleeving and seal it with the Sata Shrink. Would that be viable? And if it's not asking too much do you have a pic if you've ever tried that? and a small series of pics with your fix for the cables I follow the idea, I can't say I'm 100% confident in doing it just by following words =\\


If I get a chance in the next few days I'll definitely upload a photo of how I've sleeved my front panel stuff







I've sleeved 3 sets now and haven't personally used that USB sleeve either so it's definitely easy to do without it







As for the cables, I'll chop up my old psu (it's been chopped up heaps now







) and see if I can show you what I mean. I'm terrible at explaining things with words. Am an artist so find it hard to explain without showing it visually haha


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;11683668*
> If I get a chance in the next few days I'll definitely upload a photo of how I've sleeved my front panel stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've sleeved 3 sets now and haven't personally used that USB sleeve either so it's definitely easy to do without it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the cables, I'll chop up my old psu (it's been chopped up heaps now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and see if I can show you what I mean. I'm terrible at explaining things with words. Am an artist so find it hard to explain without showing it visually haha


I am interested in seeing this too.


----------



## [email protected]

You guys are gonna thank me this.. sick of using your regular tools and are they giving you a hard time.. No fear! There is a tool all in one you can use and saves time. It works, finally we can have a perfect tool that fits anything to sleeve your psu or system with no pain









http://www.xoxide.com/lamptron-mod-toolkit.html

I'm totally getting this because the last different tool i had actually broke.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11685206*
> You guys are gonna thank me this.. sick of using your regular tools and are they giving you a hard time.. No fear! There is a tool all in one you can use and saves time. It works, finally we can have a perfect tool that fits anything to sleeve your psu or system with no pain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.xoxide.com/lamptron-mod-toolkit.html
> 
> I'm totally getting this because the last different tool i had actually broke.


I think it was brought up earlier in the thread.

However I'm doing fine with my free staples and $3 molex remover from MDPC-X


----------



## kr3w561

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;11683668*
> If I get a chance in the next few days I'll definitely upload a photo of how I've sleeved my front panel stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've sleeved 3 sets now and haven't personally used that USB sleeve either so it's definitely easy to do without it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the cables, I'll chop up my old psu (it's been chopped up heaps now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and see if I can show you what I mean. I'm terrible at explaining things with words. Am an artist so find it hard to explain without showing it visually haha


Thanks =D My thought and learning process is very visual and logical, but my problem solving skills tend to make me over think sometimes. So pictures make it easy for me to not get all over the place!

You've used the Sata sleeve for your USB's tho right? I wanna use 8th inch all over haha


----------



## Morizuno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;11673240*
> hey guys, my psu and sleeving came.
> 
> It's a black and red combination. Can some color sleeve pattern guru type a diagram for me to follow?
> 
> Here's the rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, is the sunbeam psu modding kit any good?


anyone wanna give me some ideas on how I should sleeve my cables?


----------



## [email protected]

Still those tools are handy though! 19 bucks!~


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Ordered some red/white sleeving, can't wait for it to get here.

Nils says I should put some white tape around the cables, do any of you guys do that with white sleeving?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;11707601*
> Ordered some red/white sleeving, can't wait for it to get here.
> 
> Nils says I should put some white tape around the cables, do any of you guys do that with white sleeving?


I have seen many people do that with the white sleeving. I think the sleeving is kind of see through.


----------



## Dilyn

If you have dark cables over the white sleeving, the white will be less vibrant/bright because of the dark background.
It's the same principle as putting a sheet of white paper over different colored surfaces. It'll be less white if it's against something darker than white.

I'm spray painting my cables white this week








I will at least be finishing the 6 pin PCIe cable!


----------



## loop0001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dilyn;11708215*
> I'm spray painting my cables white this week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will at least be finishing the 6 pin PCIe cable!


i remember trying that...i failed horribly...hope you can do better. for me it was a sticky paint mess..bleh


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loop0001;11708294*
> i remember trying that...i failed horribly...hope you can do better. for me it was a sticky paint mess..bleh


It doesn't seem to be that hard. I've got a plan, though.
Hopefully it all works out









I hope to do the 6 pin PCIe, a SATA cable, the 24 pin, and the 8 pin. I want to do all of them, though.


----------



## loop0001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dilyn;11708488*
> It doesn't seem to be that hard. I've got a plan, though.
> Hopefully it all works out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope to do the 6 pin PCIe, a SATA cable, the 24 pin, and the 8 pin. I want to do all of them, though.


not so hard no.. just dont let the cable stay bunched up and stick together..that was one of my downfalls


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Thanks guys, I guess i'll pick up some white duct tape.


----------



## Shane1244

Maybe I'll actually get around to sleeving my PSU. I've had the sleeve for like 2 months now.. I just got my first day off work in 18 days. woo!


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Yeah I've had my sleeving for a while as well, no time to work on my PSU during school but break is finally here


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*


Thanks guys, I guess i'll pick up some white duct tape.


White electrical tape would be better. It's thinner, narrower, and more pliable.


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;11709015*
> Thanks guys, I guess i'll pick up some white duct tape.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;11710057*
> White electrical tape would be better. It's thinner, narrower, and more pliable.


This.

Going with tape (regardless of the kind) will make the cables a bit tougher to bend and move around.


----------



## PapaSmurf

But I still think that very thin wall white heatshrink would be the best thing to use on the wires.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


But I still think that very thin wall white heatshrink would be the best thing to use on the wires.


Have fun paying for that


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;11711039*
> But I still think that very thin wall white heatshrink would be the best thing to use on the wires.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MijnWraak;11712535*
> Have fun paying for that


I've done it before and it worked like a charm. A lot easier and less messy than painting or taping although more expensive.


----------



## wermad

18awg wire + atx pins + sleeve = longer pcie harness'. took me about 7-8 hours total for all six lines. tg thermaltake made them modular.










(old one is on the right, new one the left)


----------



## Halifax

hey guys, sorry if this is a total noob question, but im going to order some wraps tomorrow and i was wondering for the psu to mobo each of those single wires and what not, should i order 1/4 or 1/8?


----------



## Dilyn

1/8" if you're doing single wire sleeving.


----------



## Halifax

alrighty thanks a bunch


----------



## wermad

you can stuff quite a few wires into 1/8" sleeve as it expands to a larger diameter (and shortens in length







). for my current psu, I doubled up on all the wires (except where three were needed), this is much cleaner looking imo and you end up using less sleeve and shrink. its a tad bit stiffer than individual sleeving but its not dramatic.


----------



## [email protected]

wow 7 hrs really?


----------



## Copenhagen69

ya 7 hours seems a bit much for what you have in the picture ...

It took me like 7-8 hours to sleeve my whole PSU


----------



## wermad

3x 6pins + 3x 8pins. all new wires, new pins, and new connectors, new sleeve, new shrink. I thought this was going to be an easy job but when I took over an hour to do one it was a pretty long job. I took my time because I only had a few spare pins and didn't want to run out. so yeah, took me about 7-8 hours plus I was babysitting my 2 year old while mom was away christmas shopping. tg for disney movies or this would have been an all day ordeal. after a bit of practice using the crimping tool, I think I could have pulled this off in a few hours.


----------



## shnur

Did anybody buy the new Color-X on MDPC-x yet?
I'm ordering 20m tonight to finish up my usable computer...
The last PSU I sleeved ended up in an HTPC so nobody sees it


----------



## geort45

Looking forward to your color-X review ;D


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45;11733149*
> Looking forward to your color-X review ;D


What he said!


----------



## shnur

As soon as I figure out exactly how much I need of my 3 color mixes









I'm currently looking at a mix of:
Black (fans/non-important cables + SATA)
Color-X for half of the cables
Grand Bleu for the other half

Now I'm unsure if I want to go all white heatshrink or all black or mix blue/red/black...

Also trying to find a way to have blue and red water in the same loop









Any help is appreciated!


----------



## AusPC

What gets better results a lighter or a heatgun??







Jason


----------



## oliverw92

Heatgun out of those two.

I've seen several pictures of colour-x. It is true - it changes colour depending on the light. The metamarism effect is pretty crazy!


----------



## Xien16

And I don't really understand the color-light-problem...
Color-X isn't even changing the color 10% as much as purple does under different light


----------



## MijnWraak

X/Black is going to look fantastic (and I usually don't like black sleeve) as does gray







Thanks for the pics!


----------



## Dilyn

Why won't the cable stay inside the connector...
And yes, I'm pulling out the little things on the side (hooks?)
Maybe I'm just not pushing hard enough?

I think I'm gonna switch to taping them. The paint refuses to work right, and I cannot have this stuff just sitting here for four months.


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dilyn*


Why won't the cable stay inside the connector...
And yes, I'm pulling out the little things on the side (hooks?)
Maybe I'm just not pushing hard enough?

I think I'm gonna switch to taping them. The paint refuses to work right, and I cannot have this stuff just sitting here for four months.


Maybe you put the shrink to far towards the end of the pin and it's hitting the connector before the pin has a chance to latch in.


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shrimpykins*


Maybe you put the shrink to far towards the end of the pin and it's hitting the connector before the pin has a chance to latch in.


Nope I don't think that's it.


----------



## MisterClean

Hey guys I just ordered the MDPC-X Christmas special and some extra heat shrink. I had a few questions I was hoping y'all could answer.
-
1. What is a good size to cut the heatshrink? MDPC-X's pre-cut is 15mm, so I was thinking of that. But it seems just a little short.

2. I'll have to take my PSU lid off to sleeve a few of the wires. What precautions do i need to take to keep from getting zapped?

3. The MDPC-x Christmas kit comes with 40meters of sleeving. Is this actually enough to do My whole PSU (Antec TruePower Quattro 850), or would it be best to sleeve ~75% of my 24 pin wire with the fat sleeving, then switch to individual? Would that look good? Or should I just try to sleeve as much as I can with what I have and order more if it's not enough?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MisterClean*


Hey guys I just ordered the MDPC-X Christmas special and some extra heat shrink. I had a few questions I was hoping y'all could answer.
-
1. What is a good size to cut the heatshrink? MDPC-X's pre-cut is 15mm, so I was thinking of that. But it seems just a little short.


15mm (or 5/8 - 3/4") is about right. Nils wouldn't have picked that length if it didn't work right. He's a perfectionist and knows what he's doing.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MisterClean*


2. I'll have to take my PSU lid off to sleeve a few of the wires. What precautions do i need to take to keep from getting zapped?


Unplug the psu from the wall, then depress and hold the power on button down for 30 seconds to completely drain the capacitors before removing the PSU from the computer case. Then, do NOT touch the contacts on the inside of the PSU with your fingers or any tools.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MisterClean*


3. The MDPC-x Christmas kit comes with 40meters of sleeving. Is this actually enough to do My whole PSU (Antec TruePower Quattro 850), or would it be best to sleeve ~75% of my 24 pin wire with the fat sleeving, then switch to individual? Would that look good? Or should I just try to sleeve as much as I can with what I have and order more if it's not enough?


Measure the wires on the PSU to determine how much you'll need. Measure a group and multiply by the number of wires in that group then add all of that together.

You'll need to decide for yourself what looks good to you. I'm one of the few around here that doesn't like the look of individual sleeved PSU's. I tend to use larger diameter sleeve and put 4 to 6 wires in a sleeve. I think it looks better, but that's just me. I appreciate the artistry of the people who can do an excellent job of individual sleeving. I just prefer the look of grouped sleeving personally. Some people don't like that look no matter how well it's done so it's impossible for us to tell you which way to go. The consensus is individual, but that doesn't mean that you absolutely have to do it that way. It's your computer so do whatever you like, just try to do it as well as possible. The majority of those that prefer the individual sleeving would think that a great job of grouped sleeve would look better than a poor job of individual sleeving.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;11753143*
> The majority of those that prefer the individual sleeving would think that an great job of grouped sleeve would look better than a poor job of individual sleeving.


Absolutely


----------



## shnur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MisterClean;11752319*
> 3. The MDPC-x Christmas kit comes with 40meters of sleeving. Is this actually enough to do My whole PSU (Antec TruePower Quattro 850), or would it be best to sleeve ~75% of my 24 pin wire with the fat sleeving, then switch to individual? Would that look good? Or should I just try to sleeve as much as I can with what I have and order more if it's not enough?


I've had the standard sleeving kit, and it was barely enough to single sleeve my 400W PSU.
In fact, I did see that I didn't have enough sleeving for the sata power cable so I started sleeving other stuff (fans) instead, although I did not use any Jumbo sleeve on it.
I think you'd need a lot more than just a starter pack.


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xien16;11749145*
> *snip*
> 
> And I don't really understand the color-light-problem...
> Color-X isn't even changing the color 10% as much as purple does under different light


Nice pics! However it's sad that the metamerism effect isn't very noticeable as you say


----------



## Copenhagen69

those look amazing!!


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45;11756297*
> Nice pics! However it's sad that the metamerism effect isn't very noticeable as you say


If most of the pictures were under similar light, it wont be noticable.

Also can you please try to not quote more than one photo per post? It clogs the thread. Thanks!


----------



## [email protected]

I like the blue and red.. i wonder if they are UV reactive with cold cathodes?


----------



## Xien16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45;11756297*
> Nice pics! However it's sad that the metamerism effect isn't very noticeable as you say


What??? sad???
That is only a benefit for you







(if you want to take pics of the sleeve)

And I didn't say it isn't very noticeable - it is only not as strong as it is with the purple sleeve.
Get some purple and you'll see what I am talking about








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11759415*
> I like the blue and red.. i wonder if they are UV reactive with cold cathodes?


Grand bleu isn't UV reactive and I think X also isn't but I can't test it - can't find my UV lamp...


----------



## SmasherBasher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *top5designs*


that has got the be the worst sleeve job ive ever seen...dont short cut things.


Thanks! That was actually done for me when I was building a folding system that never came to complete fruition. It was done in early 2009 with Superhero PET from FrozenCPU. I'd like to see you do a better job with what you have to work with.


























If you have anything else you'd like to complain about, please feel free to send me a PM. Otherwise, keep your derogatory comments to yourself.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xien16;11759842*
> What??? sad???
> That is only a benefit for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (if you want to take pics of the sleeve)
> 
> And I didn't say it isn't very noticeable - it is only not as strong as it is with the purple sleeve.
> Get some purple and you'll see what I am talking about
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grand bleu isn't UV reactive and I think X also isn't but I can't test it - can't find my UV lamp...


TEST IT! FIND IT! I'm curious!


----------



## godofdeath

color x or red for a rog board?


----------



## mastical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godofdeath;11783915*
> color x or red for a rog board?


The red should match fine, isn't the color X a tad darker than the red?


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastical;11783938*
> The red should match fine, isn't the color X a tad darker than the red?


Color X depends on lighting, so sometimes it might be darker and at other times it might be brighter.


----------



## shnur

I went with Color X, I don't like flashy red, that will be probably better for me


----------



## Morizuno

I think normal red would look better since the colors would match with the pci slots, if the colors are similar to my Bloodrage


----------



## MijnWraak

Just thought I'd share, with MDPC sleeving and heatshrink, making the end of the sleeve stop 4mm before the beginning of the metal pin on an ATX wire provides the best results without it being TOO hard pushing the connector in.


----------



## ph10m

I'm really looking into sleeving, but I'm having a few problems - the 750 HX connectors seem to be hard to get the pins out from, maybe I'm just doing something wrong but will it be easier with MDPC's tools?

Gonna do it when I get my new mobo;









what colors do you think I should go for? blue/black (maybe white?)


----------



## shnur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ph10m;11795373*
> I'm really looking into sleeving, but I'm having a few problems - the 750 HX connectors seem to be hard to get the pins out from, maybe I'm just doing something wrong but will it be easier with MDPC's tools?
> 
> Gonna do it when I get my new mobo;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what colors do you think I should go for? blue/black (maybe white?)


What are you using to take the connectors out?

As for colours, it's up to you, what colour is your graphics card? Also any fans/lights? What case are you going to be using?

Based only on the motherboard, I'd go Blue/White, not the Grand-Bleu because these Asus boards are pretty light blue, quite like between these two smileys:







(Mobo/blue)







(Grand-Bleu)


----------



## tlxxxsracer

[QUOTEwhat colors do you think I should go for? blue/black (maybe white?)[/QUOTE]

Nils had told me about half a year ago when I was going to order black and blue sleeving (never have). Depending how how well lit the room/case is will affect the color blue you want too. A darker room/case get the Grand-bleu, its a more subtle and sleeker blue. The aqua is brighter and really stands out when there is light. I have a similar motherboard- Im going to get grand-bleu because of the lights I have and other plans I have up my sleeves (no pun intended).

Edit: What you could do is do a small order first and ask for a sample of both colors to see which you like better?


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer;11797256*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> what colors do you think I should go for? blue/black (maybe white?)
> 
> 
> 
> Nils had told me about half a year ago when I was going to order black and blue sleeving (never have). Depending how how well lit the room/case is will affect the color blue you want too. A darker room/case get the Grand-bleu, its a more subtle and sleeker blue. The aqua is brighter and really stands out when there is light. I have a similar motherboard- Im going to get grand-bleu because of the lights I have and other plans I have up my sleeves (no pun intended).
> 
> Edit: What you could do is do a small order first and ask for a sample of both colors to see which you like better?
Click to expand...

I don't think that pun was NOT intended









And the way it's set up, it's usually more convenient to buy one large order than get two smaller ones (flat shipping cost, relatively long ship time)

That being said, Aqua would probably be best for you. In order to help you decide, here's a picture by someone named Heiko. Sorry for posting without permission, but if it helps a member make a decision I think it's worth it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PICTURE BELONGS TO HEIKO (Al), NOT ME OR OCN*


----------



## BMorrisSly

Here's my sleeving, I might end up doing the USB, SATA cables soon! My first experience sleeving, Two 6 pins for GPU and 24 pin.


----------



## ph10m

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur;11796451*
> What are you using to take the connectors out?
> 
> As for colours, it's up to you, what colour is your graphics card? Also any fans/lights? What case are you going to be using?
> 
> Based only on the motherboard, I'd go Blue/White, not the Grand-Bleu because these Asus boards are pretty light blue, quite like between these two smileys:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Mobo/blue)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Grand-Bleu)


Im using normal paperclips, I seem to get them down around the pins but they just dont wanna go out


----------



## Rowey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MijnWraak;11797866*
> I don't think that pun was NOT intended
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the way it's set up, it's usually more convenient to buy one large order than get two smaller ones (flat shipping cost, relatively long ship time)
> 
> That being said, Aqua would probably be best for you. In order to help you decide, here's a picture by someone named Heiko. Sorry for posting without permission, but if it helps a member make a decision I think it's worth it.


i wish i knew how to do this


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Would 300ft black sleeving be enough to do my whole system? With 30feet of 3:1 heatshrink? Total is gonna be around $75. Is that too much sleeving?

I decided to do my whole current system using FurryLetters to get accustomed to sleeving- and give myself room to learn. And when I upgrade my psu a little later, get MDPC-X sleeving (black and blue).

Edit: So 1/8" clean cut and 3/16" heatshrink? or get 3/8" (does FL have that?)


----------



## MijnWraak

You haven't lived until you've had heatshrink spontaneously combust 5 inches from your face


----------



## KingFrizzy

Can I cut the heatshrink shorter after its cooled?? I left mine way to long and wandering if I could cut it shorter with say an x-acto knife?


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KingFrizzy*


Can I cut the heatshrink shorter after its cooled?? I left mine way to long and wandering if I could cut it shorter with say an x-acto knife?


I remember trying to do that with a razor, but never really got good results. I just ended up cutting it off and trying again







(plus didn't want to risk going straight through the wire haha)


----------



## KingFrizzy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


I remember trying to do that with a razor, but never really got good results. I just ended up cutting it off and trying again







(plus didn't want to risk going straight through the wire haha)


 +rep, thanks for the quick response, and saving me the trouble.


----------



## MijnWraak

Nothing else to do at 6 am


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingFrizzy;11802954*
> Can I cut the heatshrink shorter after its cooled?? I left mine way to long and wandering if I could cut it shorter with say an x-acto knife?


I have successfully pulled this off. I only did it on a few shrinks that were slightly too long (.125" too long max). Just make a light cut around the circumference of the shrink (like you are stripping wire) but make sure to do it lightly. You don't want to cut all the way through the shrink, if you do then you will be hitting the sleeve. Once you have a nice scar on your shrink, insert the blade and use it to pull the "ring" you just cut off the back end of the shrink, then just make a cut to open the ring up and take it off.

It's 100% easier to get it right the first time around but if it's only 1 or 2 pins, it's just as easy to take a little time and fix it.


----------



## jriker1

Is it possible to sleave your cables without removing the connectors on them? Assuming no but didn't know if there were wrap style ones that could be put on and heat shrunk.

Thanks.

JR


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Would like to get an answer about the below








Would 300ft black sleeving be enough to do my whole system, too much? With 30feet of 3:1 heatshrink? Total is gonna be around $75.

I decided to do my whole current system using FurryLetters to get accustomed to sleeving- and give myself room to learn. And when I upgrade my psu a little later, get MDPC-X sleeving (black and blue).

*
So to double check of sleeve size and heatshrink- get 1/8" sleeve and 3/16" heat shrink?*


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jriker1;11809605*
> Is it possible to sleave your cables without removing the connectors on them? Assuming no but didn't know if there were wrap style ones that could be put on and heat shrunk.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> JR


There are some wrap looms (or wraps), but they are a lot bulkier and less flexible. They don't heatshrink as well either.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer;11809660*
> Needing an answer about below before I order.
> Would 300ft black sleeving be enough to do my whole system, too much? With 30feet of 3:1 heatshrink? Total is gonna be around $75.
> 
> I decided to do my whole current system using FurryLetters to get accustomed to sleeving- and give myself room to learn. And when I upgrade my psu a little later, get MDPC-X sleeving (black and blue).
> 
> *
> So to double check of sleeve size and heatshrink- get 1/8" sleeve and 3/16" heat shrink?*


Measure the lengths of your cable groups, multiply by the number of individual wires in each group, then add it all together to determine the total length of wire used. Add 10 to 15% to that total to determine the total length of sleeving needed. Using the usual 5/8" to 3.4" length of heatshrink on each end of a wire, multiply the total number of wires times 2 then add 20 to 25% to determine how much heatshrink you will need. You tend to waste more heatshrink than you do sleeve which is why you add more extra heatshrink than you do sleeve.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I figured that much, but more worried about the heatshrink size. I know to get 1/8" sleeve, not sure heatshrink though.


----------



## shnur

For heatshrinks, I'd get a bit more, I went down my 30m sleeve/3m heatshrinks, now I still have 5+ meters left and no heatshrinks... especially if it's your first time. Get more than you'll need, worse case, you can redo some of them and you can always do some other cables (like the power LED's connectors)


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Good advice. I tried looking up my psu online for cable lengths to get a better idea how much either 200ft or 300ft.







Ill make sure to order more than 30feet of shrink tubing then. 
Nils said for every 10m of sleeve, 1m of heatshrink. It also depends how much you use for each sleeve


----------



## mastical

I sleeved almost off the cables that came with my HX1000 plus about 10 fans and still have quite a bit letf and I bought 125-150 ft if 1/8in.

300 seems like sooo much.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Then maybe ill just do 200ft and 35feet shrink tubing?

I still need to confirm what heat shrink size to get.. 3/16" or 3/8"?? 3:1 shrink ratio


----------



## mastical

Where are you buying from?


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Furryletters. Its for me to learn how to sleeve well and such before getting MDPC-X sleeving in the colors I want


----------



## shnur

Nils will give you all the info you need, plus the right tools to disasemble your PSU's


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer;11811874*
> Then maybe ill just do 200ft and 35feet shrink tubing?
> 
> I still need to confirm what heat shrink size to get.. 3/16" or 3/8"?? 3:1 shrink ratio


MDPC looks to actually be about 5/16", so look for the stuff closest to that. I'd prefer it to be a tiny bit too small than to have it too loose and have sleeve pulled out from the heatshrink.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

3/8" is closest to 5/16" but remember its only 1:3 shrink, not 1:4.
3/16" is much smaller, just a tad tad bigger than 1/8". Just worried the 3/16" won't fit over the wire and sleeve


----------



## Phatal

Can anyone link me to the MDPC sleeving for my PSU cables.


----------



## oliverw92

Did you try googling it?

www.mpdc-x.com


----------



## BellTollsForThee

I was wondering if there are any other vendors for Clean Cut Sleeves? possibly not on ebay cuz i rather not deal with paypal.


----------



## ShadoX

Just got my shipment of sleeving from MDPC-X - Damn australian customs check :S What'd they think the pre-cut heatshrink were pills?









  

All white (i got a random short red piece for some reason? Maybe an Xmas thing?) Got some White Sata sleeve also

      

Now just gotta wait for my White tubing to turn up and most importantly my Corsair 800D (and other assorted things to make the colour coding complete)

but, comparing the MDPC-X sleeve to the stuff i got off Gammods a while ago....theres definitely no comparison, the MDPC-X is way better/tighter as i expected, plus it really didn't got *that* much to get it mailed to Aus thanks to the xmas discounts (event before the discounts it wasn't too bad)

Can't wait to sleeve my TX750


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShadoX;11827885*
> (i got a random short red piece for some reason? Maybe an Xmas thing?)


Probably some of the new Color-X sleeve. He is probably sending them out with all the orders as a sample.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrimpykins;11829185*
> Probably some of the new Color-X sleeve. He is probably sending them out with all the orders as a sample.


Exactly









Shado, I wish I had ordered more white sleeve! It looks fantastic especially in my silver case.


----------



## ShadoX

yeh i think i over ordered i calculated i only needed about 12 meters, ended grabbing 20 since they come in units of 10, but i'd rather have too much then end up with too little


----------



## oliverw92

STYOP REPOTING MY POSTS LOL WAFFLE> I GET THE EMAILS LOLNUB. I <3 you CHUNKY


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

LAWL! I think you need to sleep that off...


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oliverw92;11848002*
> STYOP REPOTING MY POSTS LOL WAFFLE> I GET THE EMAILS LOLNUB. I <3 you CHUNKY


LOL.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Oi, I see those reports, too, you know...


----------



## oliverw92

SLeep"? I wokr in apub


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp;11848054*
> Oi, I see those reports, too, you know...












You can tell Oli works in a pub, can't you?


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle;11848068*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell Oli works in a pub, can't you?


I kinda picked up on that when I saw the first report.


----------



## oliverw92

Beeer + beer = beer + beer
malibue + blmaie = maluebue
jd + jd = jd
IWN


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Oh Oli, how we love you.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle;11848068*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell Oli works in a pub, can't you?


Looks like he's doing more drinking than working.


----------



## Ellis

Assuming your colleagues had a similarly eventful night to you, seems like everyone else in the pub just had to help themselves.


----------



## oliverw92

nOOO I god barman. THey al pised. I serve derp. Derp; SERVE DIRNK. derp. wih derp. becus they can't serve driep. derp. derp. lol dirnk depr.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oliverw92;11848165*
> nOOO I god barman. THey al pised. I serve derp. Derp; SERVE DIRNK. derp. wih derp. becus they can't serve driep. derp. derp. lol dirnk depr.


Oh my GOD









I call dibs on siggin this, I'm actually laughing pretty hard


----------



## Ellis

XDXDXDXD

I've been laughing pretty hard since Oli came online today


----------



## MijnWraak

I like where this thread is going


----------



## Dilyn

What in the...
What have I just walked in on and why is Oli so drunk all the time


----------



## Ellis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dilyn*


What in the...
What have I just walked in on and why is Oli so drunk all the time










It was also 11AM in the UK when he posted that.

True story bro, I swear


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r




----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r;11864015*


that is prob the most beautiful sleeving job I have ever seen (pic quality helps). Are those yours?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Martin's the Guru of the Sleeve.


----------



## Dilyn

I want him to do mine for me


----------



## PapaSmurf

Dilyn, you'll do fine with yours and have a lot of fun doing it. At least once you get past all of the frustrations of the learning process. I have confidence in you buddy.


----------



## Dilyn

So much frustration








I've got a lot of money for gas now. So I might go up to my friend's place again and maybe we'll actually get some work done.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;11865191*
> Dilyn, you'll do fine with yours and have a lot of fun doing it. At least once you get past all of the frustrations of the learning process. I have confidence in you buddy.


frustration is the pin removal or so it is for me


----------



## maximus20895

^yea, I hate it at first.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Just did three of these extentions:

































Gonna offer it as a freebie in a few minutes.


----------



## [email protected]

I wouldn't take it cuz i like mine with colors and UV


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id;11872472*
> Just did three of these extentions:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna offer it as a freebie in a few minutes.


Nice work.


----------



## regles

I plan on sleeving some extensions. What extensions (brand) would you guys recommend I get?


----------



## RushMore1205

i have to say that antec quatro series are the hardest power supplies to sleeve, becasue its almsot impossible to take the pins out


----------



## ckybam3

I want to sleeve my psu what kit should I buy. I dont need top of the line but I want it to look good ofc.


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckybam3;11879174*
> I want to sleeve my psu what kit should I buy. I dont need top of the line but I want it to look good ofc.


*Firstly*

NON-modular PSU's are a pain to single sleeve , I know this through experience









You need dedication

*Secondly*

Are you looking for Colour Combinations or are u doing it in plain black?








Jason.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Just got my furryletter sleeving. And im tryin to figure out how to take the wires out of the connector -__-
I dont have a tool either. Someone direct me someplace with a guide to make a tool?


----------



## mastical

Check the first page of this thread, then go buy a tool while your reading how to build it. hehe


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer;11879790*
> Just got my furryletter sleeving. And im tryin to figure out how to take the wires out of the connector -__-
> I dont have a tool either. Someone direct me someplace with a guide to make a tool?


Hey there









I find a Good quality 0.8-0.9mm OD (diameter) or head width, Flat Head Screwdriver will do the job for all the connectors









*24pin,8pin,6pin,4pin* : pings are on the sides, Simply slide in between the wall and pin and give a gentle push and twist with the screwdriver repeat for other side

*SATA connectors* : Remove Back Cap and push wiring out from underside using a wider 5-10mm OD Flat head.

*Molex* : Use your 0.8-0.9mm OD Flat head to push the pins in from the sides









Good Luck


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Side as in what part of the 8pin, etc? Not getting it


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *regles*


I plan on sleeving some extensions. What extensions (brand) would you guys recommend I get?


any of them?
brand doesnt seem to matter unless the maker went with the cheapest parts


----------



## AusPC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Side as in what part of the 8pin, etc? Not getting it










 Hey









Basically when you are viewing the 8pin were it is 2 pins tall and 4 pins wide. The pin holders will be on the left and right of the pin. All you need to do is push the small flathead in


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Okay, thanks! I got it with a paperclip actually. Now to figure out how to deal with a 3 pin molex to a 6pin pci-e (with a one wire jumper in the 6pin -_- Thinking 2 wires from molex to 6-pin, then a small piece for the jumper


----------



## RushMore1205

please type in in youtube how to remove 6-pin, and there are videos on how to do it


----------



## RushMore1205

If I have white heatshrink it looks so nice, but when u heat it I get burn marks on it from the lighter

how do I prevent this?

Will a torch light help?


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mijason4*


*Firstly*

NON-modular PSU's are a pain to single sleeve , I know this through experience









You need dedication

*Secondly*

Are you looking for Colour Combinations or are u doing it in plain black?








Jason.


pure black but I might just wait till i get a modular psu since mine is already sleeved even though its bad. Didnt even think about modular vs non. I was only thinking of sleeving the 24 pin, 8pin cpu, and all my pci-e since those are the only ones that show in my case. Would this be easier with modular still?


----------



## smartasien

hey guys I saw on the front page that the best heatshrink is also sold by MDPC-X because it has the thinnest wall, can anyone help me out and tell me the inner diameter of the heatshrink for the 1/8'' sleeving unheated?

thanks in advance!


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smartasien;11883488*
> hey guys I saw on the front page that the best heatshrink is also sold by MDPC-X because it has the thinnest wall, can anyone help me out and tell me the inner diameter of the heatshrink for the 1/8'' sleeving unheated?
> 
> thanks in advance!


I believe, MPDC 1/8" compatible Heatshrink uses a 0.25mm Wall. But I would not say that the *best* Heatshrink is sold by MDPC







, However MDPC does have a very good shrink ratio 4:1 and is also non-adhesive lined (It doesn't need to be due to the tight grip the shrink has


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckybam3;11883357*
> pure black but I might just wait till i get a modular psu since mine is already sleeved even though its bad. Didnt even think about modular vs non. I was only thinking of sleeving the 24 pin, 8pin cpu, and all my pci-e since those are the only ones that show in my case. Would this be easier with modular still?


Fully Modular would be easier, As you would not have a dead weight to consider







, the TX-750W does come with sleeving, However IMO its well meh.. I'd rather sleeve a modular over a non-modular. Simply because non-modulars are a pain


----------



## willieboy90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mijason4;11883832*
> Fully Modular would be easier, As you would not have a dead weight to consider
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , the TX-750W does come with sleeving, However IMO its well meh.. I'd rather sleeve a modular over a non-modular. Simply because non-modulars are a pain


I recently purchased an AX1200 from corsair and I must say that the cables were sleeved pretty good. The sleeving felt and looked like real quality stuff (i'm single sleeving the intire PSU with MDPC-X sleeving, so i'm comparing the corsair material with the MDPC-X material).

If you want a fully modular, pre sleeved (not single sleeved ofc), gold PSU, buy an AX from corsai. 750/850/1200 Watt.


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willieboy90;11883967*
> I recently purchased an AX1200 from corsair and I must say that the cables were sleeved pretty good. The sleeving felt and looked like real quality stuff (i'm single sleeving the intire PSU with MDPC-X sleeving, so i'm comparing the corsair material with the MDPC-X material).
> 
> If you want a fully modular, pre sleeved (not single sleeved ofc), gold PSU, buy an AX from corsai. 750/850/1200 Watt.


Yes, But we must keep in mind the TX-750W has been in the market for 3 years now. And when we consider the price difference







, Moreover I would like to see some nice sleeve that comes with the PSU please


----------



## willieboy90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mijason4;11884001*
> Yes, But we must keep in mind the TX-750W has been in the market for 3 years now. And when we consider the price difference
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , Moreover I would like to see some nice sleeve that comes with the PSU please


I think nice (high quality) sleeving with a PSU can be considered as a luxury thing and therefore will only be found at the more expensive PSU such as the AX series of Corsair. Imho the extra money is worth it, speaking of performance and not the sleeving


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;11883284*
> If I have white heatshrink it looks so nice, but when u heat it I get burn marks on it from the lighter
> 
> how do I prevent this?
> 
> Will a torch light help?


I use a $20 heat gun I got from Lowe's.


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willieboy90;11884047*
> I think nice (high quality) sleeving with a PSU can be considered as a luxury thing and therefore will only be found at the more expensive PSU such as the AX series of Corsair. Imho the extra money is worth it, speaking of performance and not the sleeving


Yes, I agree on that point performance before aesthetics


----------



## loop0001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id;11884128*
> I use a $20 heat gun I got from Lowe's.


this, i bought one and it works wonders


----------



## ckybam3

So sleeving yourself even on a modular = not fun

what other psus could i get for my next build that would be sleeved well?


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckybam3;11889285*
> So sleeving yourself even on a modular = not fun
> 
> what other psus could i get for my next build that would be sleeved well?


I don't know of any that are sleeved *well*. Most of them are sleeved in a time-saving way, ignoring any visual quality in place of functionality.

I don't know of *any* single-sleeved PSU's. If there were more, they wouldn't be as unique though.


----------



## ckybam3

well can some1 recommend me a kit that would be good for the hx850/1000? the cx/ax models arent sleved to what I want either.

I really just need to know what type size and how much because I have never done this before.


----------



## shnur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckybam3;11892192*
> well can some1 recommend me a kit that would be good for the hx850/1000? the cx/ax models arent sleved to what I want either.
> 
> I really just need to know what type size and how much because I have never done this before.


Check on the first page, you'll find a lot of info on sizes.

As for lenght, you need to measure your cables, figure out if you want to single sleeve or have multiple cables in a sleeve.

Order, dedicate about 10-12 hours for your first time









I just ordered some Color-X and I'll be checking how Grand-Bleu fits my build


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur;11892669*
> Check on the first page, you'll find a lot of info on sizes.
> 
> As for lenght, you need to measure your cables, figure out if you want to single sleeve or have multiple cables in a sleeve.
> 
> Order, dedicate about 10-12 hours for your first time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just ordered some Color-X and I'll be checking how Grand-Bleu fits my build


I was thinking of replacing the orange in my X-750 with color-x, but after seeing how it reacts with UV light (even blue LEDs) I think it looks too awesome at night







Let us know how X looks under those conditions please


----------



## shnur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MijnWraak;11893672*
> I was thinking of replacing the orange in my X-750 with color-x, but after seeing how it reacts with UV light (even blue LEDs) I think it looks too awesome at night
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let us know how X looks under those conditions please


I'd love to! I just need to order some cathodes... maybe some BlackLights would be sweet?

I'm also trying to tweak my watercooling setup at the same time, need to figure that one out too.


----------



## Willhemmens

Sleeves in! Didnt take long to arrive, MDPC-X goodness!.

So I'm going green, more green than I have previously. I plan to keep the outside of my 700D pretty standard looking. Then when I lift the side panel off, it should look quite different.

So heres the green stuff:










I've only got time to do a six pin cable today so here's the start:


















Under a blue cold cathode, probably switching to Green or just UV cathodes.










Theres a couple heatshrinks that need redoing.

Why Green? Seems like the least common colour of sleeve I see around here. Is that for a good reason? Probably.

Also final pics will be done with a better camera.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens;11898275*
> Sleeves in! Didnt take long to arrive, MDPC-X goodness!.
> 
> So I'm going green, more green than I have previously. I plan to keep the outside of my 700D pretty standard looking. Then when I lift the side panel off, it should look quite different.
> 
> So heres the green stuff:
> 
> -snip-


Have to say, there is a place in my heart for the green/black pcb. And you color matched eveything nicely! Good job bro!


----------



## slytown

What color should I go with for my mobo? I don't really want black. White might go good with my Silverstone fan.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813136070


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slytown;11898680*
> What color should I go with for my mobo? I don't really want black. White might go good with my Silverstone fan.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813136070


Orange/White
Or even Orange/Color-x/White Might be fun!

In the end its all personal preference though.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;11898482*
> Have to say, there is a place in my heart for the green/black pcb. And you color matched eveything nicely! Good job bro!


I've always liked those DFI LanParty boards with the UV/Neon Green slots.


----------



## slytown

Will 20m be enough for my system?

Sleeve SMALL - WHITE
SL-S-WH 7,95 Euro 15,90 Euro (2)
Pre-Cut Heatshrink SMALL - BLACK
HSC-S-BK 3,99 Euro 3,99 Euro (1)
Sleeve SATA - WHITE
SL-SA-WH 5,95 Euro 5,95 Euro (1)


----------



## shnur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slytown;11899604*
> Will 20m be enough for my system?
> 
> Sleeve SMALL - WHITE
> SL-S-WH 7,95 Euro 15,90 Euro (2)
> Pre-Cut Heatshrink SMALL - BLACK
> HSC-S-BK 3,99 Euro 3,99 Euro (1)
> Sleeve SATA - WHITE
> SL-SA-WH 5,95 Euro 5,95 Euro (1)


Are you planning to sleeve the whole PSU? If that's the case, then I'd say you'd need a bit more...


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slytown*


Will 20m be enough for my system?

Sleeve SMALL - WHITE
SL-S-WH 7,95 Euro 15,90 Euro (2) 
Pre-Cut Heatshrink SMALL - BLACK
HSC-S-BK 3,99 Euro 3,99 Euro (1)
Sleeve SATA - WHITE
SL-SA-WH 5,95 Euro 5,95 Euro (1)


Measure each of your cable bundles, multiply that times the number of individual wires in each bundle, add all of that up, they order 10 to 20% more just in case. For the heatshrink multiply the number of wires you'll be sleeving times 2 then add about 25 to 35% for extra just in case. You'll probably waste more heatshrink than you will sleeve.


----------



## AlanScott

just recently sleeved my psu, the whole process went rather well


----------



## slytown

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AlanScott*


just recently sleeved my psu, the whole process went rather well


Very nice. Good use of color.


----------



## godofdeath

haviing such a hard time with a pin on a gpu cable i need to get me some staples

why cant psu makers just make the psu end with the same end as the other side for 24/8/gpu cables blehhhhh


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlanScott;11902133*
> just recently sleeved my psu, the whole process went rather well


That ColorX looks awesome xD


----------



## Phatal

I'm looking to buy some sleeved cables for my new rig. I'll need my 6-Pin GPU, 8-Pin CPU and 24-Pin cable sleeved with high quality sleeves. I don't really have time and am a noob at this so it'll be great if I could pay someone or be linked to a site where they do this.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phatal;11907976*
> I'm looking to buy some sleeved cables for my new rig. I'll need my 6-Pin GPU, 8-Pin CPU and 24-Pin cable sleeved with high quality sleeves. I don't really have time and am a noob at this so it'll be great if I could pay someone or be linked to a site where they do this.


Im in the same boat but for a good job its gonna cost me more than the PSU will cost! and im talking about a corsair AX1200.

Want it to come out looking real good but ive never worked with heatshrink before







so im not sure i can accomplish lol.

and it will probably be like $400 or so to fully sleeve my AX1200


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlanScott;11902133*
> just recently sleeved my psu, the whole process went rather well


That's not MDPC-X sleeving is it?

Also, I just picked up one of these specifically for sleeving:










Up to 1500w, variable, two speed fan.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrimpykins;11913398*
> That's not MDPC-X sleeving is it?
> 
> -snip-


Looks to be Paracord?


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;11913803*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shrimpykins;11913398*
> That's not MDPC-X sleeving is it?
> 
> -snip-
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks to be Paracord?
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I was thinking. Too many strands to be MDPC and it looks much softer. Was just curious, someone had commented that the color-x looked nice.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## godofdeath

finally got all the pins off one connector man was it tough

another 12 + 24 + 26 to go


----------



## slytown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oliverw92;10542468*
> Almost got all the pics for my sleeving guide now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just got to get pics for SATA sleeving. Here are the pics of the PSU i used for the sleeving:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I always test the PSU afterwards with a multimeter to check i got everything in correctly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My most perfect connector on that PSU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you follow my method (coming soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) you should be able to achieve this with a bit of practice.


Did you name your PSU "Medusa"?


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrimpykins;11913398*
> That's not MDPC-X sleeving is it?
> 
> Also, I just picked up one of these specifically for sleeving:
> 
> Up to 1500w, variable, two speed fan.


I believe the above ur talking about is mdpc-x with the color-x (reddish) color in there.


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckybam3;11926116*
> I believe the above ur talking about is mdpc-x with the color-x (reddish) color in there.


No, I don't think it is. It looks to be paracord.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrimpykins;11926623*
> No, I don't think it is. It looks to be paracord.


I actually didnt think it was mdpc-x but when mijason4 said:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mijason4;11904682*
> That ColorX looks awesome xD


I was inclined to think it was. Im with you though it looks more like paracord.


----------



## MisterClean

The fun begins tonight!







I just hope I don't screw it up lol.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MisterClean;11928002*
> -img snip-
> 
> The fun begins tonight!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just hope I don't screw it up lol.


Just take your time and dont settle for anything less than perfection! You will do fine!

Going to do some finish sleeving here for the katharos mod in about 45 min =D


----------



## Morizuno

i just sleeved that psu, some of the pins refused to come out and taking off the heatshrink is a PIA because they glued it on


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;11928556*
> i just sleeved that psu, some of the pins refused to come out and taking off the heatshrink is a PIA because they glued it on


You should try an ocz one lol, They use this fabric tape and then heatshrink over it, nothing a exacto knife cant handle.. but alot of extra work.

I also found on the ones that are glued before hand, a touch from the lighter to soften it up a little, helps to pull it off after it is cut.


----------



## Morizuno

lol, my heatgun burned that heatshrink off like a boss, only way for me to remove it without cutting all of the cables


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;11928598*
> lol, my heatgun burned that heatshrink off like a boss, only way for me to remove it without cutting all of the cables


HA! I bet it came right off, I just finnaly caved and bought one last night...

http://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-840015-Black-10-Piece-Heat/dp/B000H4I67I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1294441639&sr=8-2]Heatgun Link[/URL]

I figured that little guy would do just fine, till then its a lighter for me. =D


----------



## Morizuno

yeah







I use a 15$ blackndecker one, works fine


----------



## MisterClean

Yeah I noticed the glue. I figure I'll cut the heatshrink with a razor then try to melt the glue with the porter cable I just picked up.

What's s good heat setting to use for the heatshrink?


----------



## smartasien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;11928686*
> yeah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a 15$ blackndecker one, works fine


wow thats cheap where'd u get that? or did u get it used.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MisterClean;11928002*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fun begins tonight!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just hope I don't screw it up lol.


your getting your serious pants on. Drool at that psu


----------



## Josh154

Hey guys, im looking into sleeving my new PSU that's coming. It is not a modular PSU so i know it's going to be a pain in the rear. It's a PC power and cooling silencer just like this. From my understanding it's going to be a pain but im up for the challenge.

Im really wanting to do a black and green combo but it's so hard to find a mobo that will match it good. I guess a all black evga would look with a green combo.

Anyways i think ill sleeve now and match later. Is MDPC the best place to buy black and green sleeving? Should i get 2 10 meter's of black and 1 10 meter of green? I haven't received my power supply yet so i don't know how much sleeving i will quite need.


----------



## Jude188

Not out yet but... this


----------



## Josh154

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jude188;11929591*
> Not out yet but... this


Holy crap that board is sick! Im definitely going to have to switch over to gigabyte for these boards! I know now i will be keeping my asrock untill those come out







When's the release date on those supposed to be?

Now i just need to sleeve my PSU black and green and throw in some green coolermaster r4's!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Josh154;11929525*
> Hey guys, im looking into sleeving my new PSU that's coming. It is not a modular PSU so i know it's going to be a pain in the rear. It's a PC power and cooling silencer just like this. From my understanding it's going to be a pain but im up for the challenge.
> 
> Im really wanting to do a black and green combo but it's so hard to find a mobo that will match it good. I guess a all black evga would look with a green combo.
> 
> Anyways i think ill sleeve now and match later. Is MDPC the best place to buy black and green sleeving? Should i get 2 10 meter's of black and 1 10 meter of green? I haven't received my power supply yet so i don't know how much sleeving i will quite need.


FurryLetters and MDPC-X both have excellent black. For green your options are MDPC-X or KoolerTek Kobra. MDPC-X has better heatshrink so that would be the overall best choice so you would probably be better off getting it all from him.

As far as I'm concerned you are going about things backwards. Pick the hardware first, then select a color scheme that works with it, not the other way around.


----------



## MisterClean

so...10 minutes in and I'm already frustrated lol.

the s tock sleeving and glue has come off easy, but I just cannot get a pin out. I've tried every pin on the pcie cable, and every pin on the 24pin cable. Not a single one will budge. I'm using the nicer tool MDPC carried, and it's small, but i cant seem to apply pressure to the clip, and pull back on the wire at the same time. SO I'm wrestling with it, yanking and pushing, and that little tool and the connector are killing my fingers. And to top it off my hands started sweating. There has got to be a trick I am missing

edit: I found the trick: you just have to put a bit of man behind it and pull the crap out of the wire for it to come loose.

Almost done with my first wire heh. This is going to be a long process.


----------



## Josh154

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


FurryLetters and MDPC-X both have excellent black. For green your options are MDPC-X or KoolerTek Kobra. MDPC-X has better heatshrink so that would be the overall best choice so you would probably be better off getting it all from him.

As far as I'm concerned you are going about things backwards. Pick the hardware first, then select a color scheme that works with it, not the other way around.


Okay well then ill go with my current hardware and do a black and red combo. Where's the best place to get black and red sleeving? Preferably in the states if possible.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Josh154*


Okay well then ill go with my current hardware and do a black and red combo. Where's the best place to get black and red sleeving? Preferably in the states if possible.


Same places. Furry Letters has the best black clean cut in the US, but his other colors are low quality PET. Koolertek has Black, Red, and Green among other colors that are about on par with the Furry Letters Clean Cut Black, but not as good as the MDPC-X.


----------



## Ragsters

Anyone have extra MDPC-X sleeving they can sell me? I don't need much.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


Anyone have extra MDPC-X sleeving they can sell me? I don't need much.


What color?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


What color?


Pmed

Edit: Didn't have the color I wanted. Does anyone else have any MDPC-X sleeving/heatshrink?


----------



## Josh154

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Same places. Furry Letters has the best black clean cut in the US, but his other colors are low quality PET. Koolertek has Black, Red, and Green among other colors that are about on par with the Furry Letters Clean Cut Black, but not as good as the MDPC-X.


Ahh ill probably order from koolertex then. How many feet do you think i will need for my power supply? And what size will i need? Oh and what size heatshrink do i need?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Measure each of the cable bundles, multiply by the number of cables in that bundle, add all of that together and add about 15 to 20% extra just to make sure. For single sleeve you would use 1/8" sleeve. At the bottom of the page for the various sizes of sleeve at Koolertek there will be a link to the correct heatshrink. To determine how much heatshrink count the total number of wires you will be sleeving, multiply that by 1.5" then add 25 to 35% extra since you'll probably waste more heatshrink than you will sleeve in the learning process. Most people find that 5/8" to 3/4" of heatshrink at each end is about right.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Morizuno*


i just sleeved that psu, some of the pins refused to come out and taking off the heatshrink is a PIA because they glued it on



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


I also found on the ones that are glued before hand, a touch from the lighter to soften it up a little, helps to pull it off after it is cut.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Morizuno*


lol, my heatgun burned that heatshrink off like a boss, only way for me to remove it without cutting all of the cables


I am starting to work on the X-650 as well. I am just starting to take the existing sleeving off and I found the easiest way to take off the shrink is with a seam ripper.
http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&keyw...0ripper&page=1
My wife was sewing something and I saw it and said hey that would probably work for my sleeving job. And does it ever.
I got them off in seconds. It tears through the glue and shrink like butter. No need to heat it or nothing. I think this should be posted somewhere as part of the necessary tools for sleeving.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


I am starting to work on the X-650 as well. I am just starting to take the existing sleeving off and I found the easiest way to take off the shrink is with a seam ripper.
http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&keyw...0ripper&page=1
My wife was sewing something and I saw it and said hey that would probably work for my sleeving job. And does it ever.

I got them off in seconds. It tears through the glue and shrink like butter.


mmmmmmmmmm. butter.


----------



## Ragsters

Sorry for the double post but what is the best pin remover for the 24pin, pci-e, 8pin ect.?


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


Sorry for the double post but what is the best pin remover for the 24pin, pci-e, 8pin ect.?


Staples or the Molex ATX pin remover depending on your budget.


----------



## MisterClean

So I finished my 8-pin, I'm going to work on my 24 pin later. I'm not entirely sure how much sleeve I'll have left over after that, and I havent even touched the big sleeve yet. I was considering doing the SLI cable as one single sleeve. Any opinions on how that would look?

One thing that I'm not sure about: My gtx470's use 6 pin pcie, and my connectors are 8 pin. Two of the slots have two wires crimped in. What do I do about that? I'd be fine with removing the extra 2 pins for now (if possible) and I can just add them back in in the future if I uograde to cards that need 8 pin pcie.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


Staples or the Molex ATX pin remover depending on your budget.


When you say molex ATX do you mean this specifically?
http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sle...e-original.htm


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MisterClean*


So I finished my 8-pin, I'm going to work on my 24 pin later. I'm not entirely sure how much sleeve I'll have left over after that, and I havent even touched the big sleeve yet. I was considering doing the SLI cable as one single sleeve. Any opinions on how that would look?

One thing that I'm not sure about: My gtx470's use 6 pin pcie, and my connectors are 8 pin. Two of the slots have two wires crimped in. What do I do about that? I'd be fine with removing the extra 2 pins for now (if possible) and I can just add them back in in the future if I uograde to cards that need 8 pin pcie.


If you have extra modular cables laying around that are the same length, use those in place of the 2 crimped ones. I didn't really care and just snipped off the second wire at the base since I never use GPUs with 8-pin connectors.

If you don't, try asking for another set of cables from your PSU maker, saying you lost them when you moved or something.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MisterClean*


So I finished my 8-pin, I'm going to work on my 24 pin later. I'm not entirely sure how much sleeve I'll have left over after that, and I havent even touched the big sleeve yet. I was considering doing the SLI cable as one single sleeve. Any opinions on how that would look?

One thing that I'm not sure about: My gtx470's use 6 pin pcie, and my connectors are 8 pin. Two of the slots have two wires crimped in. What do I do about that? I'd be fine with removing the extra 2 pins for now (if possible) and I can just add them back in in the future if I uograde to cards that need 8 pin pcie.


seasonic connectors are like impossible in some

i got so many cuts on my hand from them

for the extra 2 wires just cut them off or something
or 
make your own wire, the 2x extra black are for the 8 pin, cutting them off wont affect anything since thats like using the 6 pin only


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MisterClean*


So I finished my 8-pin, I'm going to work on my 24 pin later. I'm not entirely sure how much sleeve I'll have left over after that, and I havent even touched the big sleeve yet. I was considering doing the SLI cable as one single sleeve. Any opinions on how that would look?

One thing that I'm not sure about: My gtx470's use 6 pin pcie, and my connectors are 8 pin. Two of the slots have two wires crimped in. What do I do about that? I'd be fine with removing the extra 2 pins for now (if possible) and I can just add them back in in the future if I uograde to cards that need 8 pin pcie.


if the other end is 6pin instead of 8 you could just flip the cables and put the 8 pin part in the psu no? just a random thought


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ckybam3*


if the other end is 6pin instead of 8 you could just flip the cables and put the 8 pin part in the psu no? just a random thought


uh what?

that wouldn't work regardless since the little brick that goes into the psu is a 12 pin (produces 2x 6+2 pins for the gpus)


----------



## Josh154

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Measure each of the cable bundles, multiply by the number of cables in that bundle, add all of that together and add about 15 to 20% extra just to make sure. For single sleeve you would use 1/8" sleeve. At the bottom of the page for the various sizes of sleeve at Koolertek there will be a link to the correct heatshrink. To determine how much heatshrink count the total number of wires you will be sleeving, multiply that by 1.5" then add 25 to 35% extra since you'll probably waste more heatshrink than you will sleeve in the learning process. Most people find that 5/8" to 3/4" of heatshrink at each end is about right.


Okay cool, i've worked with heatshrink before actually with RC cars. Soldering connections and heat shrinking them.

I don't have my PSU yet so you suggest i wait and measure out my wires?

I plan to single sleeve everything, so get 1/8" from koolertek? How's koolertek's stuff compared to the clean cut stuff?

I don't want my sleeving to look like poor quality stuff


----------



## MisterClean

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


If you have extra modular cables laying around that are the same length, use those in place of the 2 crimped ones. I didn't really care and just snipped off the second wire at the base since I never use GPUs with 8-pin connectors.

If you don't, try asking for another set of cables from your PSU maker, saying you lost them when you moved or something.



I may just snip it then. When it comes time to upgrade, and I need an 8 pin, it won't be that hard to just crimp a second wire back in.

WHat do y'all think of a single sleeve for the pcie cable?










vs










except in an rv02, and not as pro of a job lol


----------



## MijnWraak

I hate working with sata heatshrink. You need to use so much of it to prevent the sleeve from coming out that it doesnt look nearly as good as single sleeving would, imho.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Josh154*


Okay cool, i've worked with heatshrink before actually with RC cars. Soldering connections and heat shrinking them.

I don't have my PSU yet so you suggest i wait and measure out my wires?

I plan to single sleeve everything, so get 1/8" from koolertek? How's koolertek's stuff compared to the clean cut stuff?

I don't want my sleeving to look like poor quality stuff










This review has a list of the various cable groups and how long they are. That should allow you to get an idea of how much you'll need.

I can't personally compare the Koolertek to the Clean Cut (which is only available in black) as I have never purchased any of the Clean Cut. I do have quite a bit of the KoolerTek though and while it is less dense than the MDPC-X it isn't even close to what I would consider poor quality. I'm sure that someone here has used both and can tell you how they compare.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


This review has a list of the various cable groups and how long they are. That should allow you to get an idea of how much you'll need.

I can't personally compare the Koolertek to the Clean Cut (which is only available in black) as I have never purchased any of the Clean Cut. I do have quite a bit of the KoolerTek though and while it is less dense than the MDPC-X it isn't even close to what I would consider poor quality. I'm sure that someone here has used both and can tell you how they compare.


My mod is purely Clean Cut, so you could check any of those pictures out, or Josh could just get off his butt and come get some samples of it up here lol


----------



## Josh154

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


This review has a list of the various cable groups and how long they are. That should allow you to get an idea of how much you'll need.

I can't personally compare the Koolertek to the Clean Cut (which is only available in black) as I have never purchased any of the Clean Cut. I do have quite a bit of the KoolerTek though and while it is less dense than the MDPC-X it isn't even close to what I would consider poor quality. I'm sure that someone here has used both and can tell you how they compare.


Alright thanks man







I think ill go with the Koolertek just to get the red. Or maybe i could do clean cut and order some red from koolertek?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


My mod is purely Clean Cut, so you could check any of those pictures out, or Josh could just get off his butt and come get some samples of it up here lol


Of course i've looked at all your pics







Sleeving look's great. And your right about being on my butt







Im at round 32 in zombies on black ops right now haha

Or i could possibly buy my sleeving and come up there with my PSU and and have you help me sleeve them and use your tools


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Josh154*


Alright thanks man







I think ill go with the Koolertek just to get the red. Or maybe i could do clean cut and order some red from koolertek?

Of course i've looked at all your pics







Sleeving look's great. And your right about being on my butt







Im at round 32 in zombies on black ops right now haha

*Or i could possibly buy my sleeving and come up there with my PSU and and have you help me sleeve them and use your tools*










LOL mooch, quit weezen offa my mod supplies. I dont see that being a problem, its the time thats the issue, but totally doable.


----------



## AusPC

So who wants some **Venomous** Cable Sleeve & Heatshrink Samples?


















Link to the Thead is in my sig


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mijason4;11933718*
> So who wants some **Venomous** Cable Sleeve & Heatshrink Samples?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link to the Thead is in my sig


You need Artisan status to do this; I have contacted Chipp about it so he should have contacted you in turn. If he hasn't, feel free to PM him.







Info here: http://www.overclock.net/overclock-net-related-news-information/664911-new-artisan-vendor-rep-sponsored-poster.html


----------



## Josh154

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;11933594*
> LOL mooch, quit weezen offa my mod supplies. I dont see that being a problem, its the time thats the issue, but totally doable.


Lol yeah, well i was looking at modding tool's and it's just as much for the tool as it is for my sleeving!









Im trying to upgrade to a 470, and being 16 it's tough to have all the money for hardware and modding tool's like your guys do


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Josh154;11933729*
> Lol yeah, well i was looking at modding tool's and it's just as much for the tool as it is for my sleeving!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im trying to upgrade to a 470, and being 16 it's tough to have all the money for hardware and modding tool's like your guys do


Ha! My moddng tools are 2 pieces of an antenna for the molex pins, a small vice grip with a part of a bobby pin in it, and a small piece of plastic for spacing. Although I must admit I just ordered professional ones not too long ago.


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp;11933727*
> You need Artisan status to do this; I have contacted Chipp about it so he should have contacted you in turn. If he hasn't, feel free to PM him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Info here: http://www.overclock.net/overclock-net-related-news-information/664911-new-artisan-vendor-rep-sponsored-poster.html


Thanks for clearing that up







, Would that mean I would require Vendor status?


----------



## Josh154

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;11933794*
> Ha! My moddng tools are 2 pieces of an antenna for the molex pins, a small vice grip with a part of a bobby pin in it, and a small piece of plastic for spacing. Although I must admit I just ordered professional ones not too long ago.


Haha i figured you would you always gotta have the nice fancy stuff







My rig will be getting there soon hopefully. I just need a income and i'll be there too just like the rest of you!

So sleeving materials from koolertek with sleving and heat shrink should cost no more then about $30 bucks?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Josh154;11933838*
> Haha i figured you would you always gotta have the nice fancy stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My rig will be getting there soon hopefully. I just need a income and i'll be there too just like the rest of you!
> 
> So sleeving materials from koolertek with sleving and heat shrink should cost no more then about $30 bucks?


How about this, you get up here and Ill give you your own set of sleeving tools like I have for you to keep. They are easy and cheap to make.


----------



## Josh154

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;11933851*
> How about this, you get up here and Ill give you your own set of sleeving tools like I have for you to keep. They are easy and cheap to make.


Now that sounds like a plan! It's only gonna cost me that much in gas to come get free tool's









Does that seem about right though? $30 bucks to sleeve a psu?


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mijason4;11933807*
> Thanks for clearing that up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , Would that mean I would require Vendor status?


No, just Artisan status. Sorry, I answered a question you didn't ask in the PM.


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp;11933988*
> No, just Artisan status. Sorry, I answered a question you didn't ask in the PM.


^ YGPM'ed


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Okay, got my bearings straight this time. Got all turned around, but not now...


----------



## MisterClean

Thanks seasonic for cramming 2 wires into one hole every chance you get







. I was doing s pretty decent job until I came to these.they've got the hole so right I can't grt the connector in with the heatshrinj on and it winds up looking ugly not mention how big of a pain it is.

I think later on I'll redo these wires by splicing the second one in with some solder further down thr line from the pin. For now I'll have to deal with a few ugly spots. Grrr


----------



## mastical

Does anyone else sleeve PSU's here besides Martin from http://psychosleeve.com/?

I'm looking to have someone redo my sleeve job.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastical;11937677*
> Does anyone else sleeve PSU's here besides Martin from http://psychosleeve.com/?
> 
> I'm looking to have someone redo my sleeve job.


There is a few of us who do, but the list keeps changing lol


----------



## MisterClean

so does anyone have tips on the two wires into one pin? I took a break because it frustrates me how ugly it is, and what a PITA it is to get the sleeving on.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MisterClean;11938211*
> so does anyone have tips on the two wires into one pin? I took a break because it frustrates me how ugly it is, and what a PITA it is to get the sleeving on.


I would like to know this as well.


----------



## PapaSmurf

If it's one of the PCI-E connectors for a vid card a lot of people will get an extension like below and sleeve that for a cleaner look. They have them for other cables as well.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Got the aunbeamtech tool kit. Still some connectors and pins are a pain to remove.

One question, for the 4/8pin that goes to the mobo, am I able to remove the 4 wires that I dont use? So I dont have a connecotr going to nothing and extra wire


----------



## MisterClean

It's the 24-pin. There's a pair of black, a pair of yellow, a pair of orange and a pair of red.










you can see I've already attempted to do the pair of black, and it came out terrible. Unfortunately I don't know what else to do with it, other than solder the second wire earlier in the line and recrimp it. All of which I don't have the time or all the tools to do right now.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer;11938574*
> 
> One question, for the 4/8pin that goes to the mobo, am I able to remove the 4 wires that I don't use? So I don't have a connector going to nothing and extra wire


You could, but I wouldn't recommend it. As soon as you do that you'll end up getting a new motherboard that needs it. I would just find a way to hide it behind the mobo tray or some other out of the way place. If you do remove them be sure to properly cap the wires off so they don't short out against anything.


----------



## MijnWraak

If they both go into the same hole, why cant you just shrink them together? Just make sure after you shrink it, while it's still hot put it into the housing. It should be malleable enough to fit when its hot like this.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MisterClean;11938713*
> It's the 24-pin. There's a pair of black, a pair of yellow, a pair of orange and a pair of red.
> 
> you can see I've already attempted to do the pair of black, and it came out terrible. Unfortunately I don't know what else to do with it, other than solder the second wire earlier in the line and recrimp it. All of which I don't have the time or all the tools to do right now.


Are you trying to put both wires in one sleeve or two separate sleeves?

DO NOT try to solder the wires together further down the line as that defeats the entire purpose of there being two wires. They use two as the current load to that pin is greater than a single wire can handle. In your situation you can't really use an extension either as the chance of overloading the extension is quite high. About the best you can do is sleeve the two wires together in a single sleeve the best the can. The last thing you want to do is compromise the electrical integrity of the psu's wiring.


----------



## MisterClean

I tried that and it just wouldn't fit, it was too tight. I'm about to give it another go, though. Maybe with enough finagling it will go in.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;11938810*
> Are you trying to put both wires in one sleeve or two separate sleeves?
> 
> DO NOT try to solder the wires together further down the line as that defeats the entire purpose of there being two wires. They use two as the current load to that pin is greater than a single wire can handle. In your situation you can't really use an extension either as the chance of overloading the extension is quite high. About the best you can do is sleeve the two wires together in a single sleeve the best the can. The last thing you want to do is compromise the electrical integrity of the psu's wiring.


Since they both go to the same pin, I put them both into a single sleeve. On the other end, where they split into two pins, I cut the sleeve a little shorter, heatshrinked the individual pins, and put shrink around those two and the sleeve. so it's like a heatshrinked Y


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I'm having the hardest time extracting the wires from the connectors. Using the sunbeamtech tool and Nada. I see the tips go on the outside of the pin but I try pulling and nothing. I even push the wire in and the tool in to make sure.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer;11939838*
> I'm having the hardest time extracting the wires from the connectors. Using the sunbeamtech tool and Nada. I see the tips go on the outside of the pin but I try pulling and nothing. I even push the wire in and the tool in to make sure.


Are you referring to the pins on the ATX, PCIe, and EPS12V connectors? If so, I used staples instead. I broke the pins on my Sunbeamtech tool. Staples were much easier but left my fingertips bruised and blistered.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer;11939838*
> I'm having the hardest time extracting the wires from the connectors. Using the sunbeamtech tool and Nada. I see the tips go on the outside of the pin but I try pulling and nothing. I even push the wire in and the tool in to make sure.


Try warming up the connector with a hair dryer or heat gun first to soften it up a bit. Then push the wire all the way into the connector, then push the tool in while holding the wire stationary, then pull it out.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Try warming up the connector with a hair dryer or heat gun first to soften it up a bit. Then push the wire all the way into the connector, then push the tool in while holding the wire stationary, then pull it out.


Nope, not helping. Thanks though.


----------



## Cyrekk

Sweet jeebus, I HAVE to start doing this... I was planning on just using sleeved extensions, but its just not the same...


----------



## moe112

Wow you guys do some great sleeving. I was looking to sleeve my Silverstone Strider 750W and was wondering about the PCI-E cables, since they have capacitor on them I was told that they weren't necessary and that the psu had everything it needs in the main unit. So has anyone tried cutting them off? and if you have does it still work without damaging anything?


----------



## mastical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moe112;11958118*
> Wow you guys do some great sleeving. I was looking to sleeve my Silverstone Strider 750W and was wondering about the PCI-E cables, since they have capacitor on them I was told that they weren't necessary and that the psu had everything it needs in the main unit. So has anyone tried cutting them off? and if you have does it still work without damaging anything?


My psu came with these, we all just cut them off. Mine works fine without them.


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:



Originally Posted by *moe112*


Wow you guys do some great sleeving. I was looking to sleeve my Silverstone Strider 750W and was wondering about the PCI-E cables, since they have capacitor on them I was told that they weren't necessary and that the psu had everything it needs in the main unit. So has anyone tried cutting them off? and if you have does it still work without damaging anything?


They aren't capacitors. I forget what they are called. Some people say cut them off, others say don't. It's kind of up in the air. The ones that cut them off and had no problems will tell you it's ok. Others will say they had troubles once they removed them and others will tell you "The manufacturer put them there for a reason". It's still up in the air as to whether they are truly necessary. I cut mine off of my HX1000 and it still works just fine.

EDIT: Nevermind, just looked at the PSU, they in fact DO have caps at the end of the cables.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shrimpykins*


They aren't capacitors. I forget what they are called. Some people say cut them off, others say don't. It's kind of up in the air. The ones that cut them off and had no problems will tell you it's ok. Others will say they had troubles once they removed them and others will tell you "The manufacturer put them there for a reason". It's still up in the air as to whether they are truly necessary. I cut mine off of my HX1000 and it still works just fine.


What he said right there will save you 3 hours of reading. The opinion is mixed.


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


What he said right there will save you 3 hours of reading. The opinion is mixed.


What he is talking about are in fact capacitors though, I was mistaken and I am not sure if the caps are necessary. I would assume it's some type of power quality assurance. If removed it won't necessarily hurt anything but it may help things by leaving them on.


----------



## Tator Tot

It depends on the PSU if they are necessary or not.

Antec's TruePower Quattro 1200w which featured the PowerCache cables do require them as they play a significant part in secondary filtering.

Most other PSU's do not require them; though they do aid in filtering and also help keep something down. 
Like on the Strider Plus units, the caps on the PCIe cables keep the whine/buzz noise that most people hear on GTX 200 series cards down to a minimum.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shrimpykins*


What he is talking about are in fact capacitors though, I was mistaken and I am not sure if the caps are necessary. I would assume it's some type of power quality assurance. If removed it won't necessarily hurt anything but it may help things by leaving them on.


Ahh, well at least you are right on the round magnet lookin things lol.


----------



## PulkPull

Hey guys.

Just got finished sleeving some of the parts I will be putting into my build once I get off vacation. The pics are below. This is my first time sleeving anything and I am a bit disappointed in the quality of the sleeving I used. This is the stuff I used. The sleeving is see through.







The sleeving guide said to use furryletters stuff, but he/she has a lot of options. Before I buy the rest of the sleeving for my PSU and case wires I want to be sure I am getting the right stuff. Is it the clean cut sleeving that I should get from furryletters? I don't want it to be see through like the stuff I used below -


























































Anyway, to finish sleeving everything else in my case, which sleeving do I buy from here that will not be see through like the stuff above.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Ahh, well at least you are right on the round magnet lookin things lol.


Those are ferrite beads, and they have a place as well; they can stop the whine that GPUs give off. Though it doesn't effect all cards or all PSU's.


----------



## moe112

Thanks for the info guys, I've given it more thought and I'm going to just reverse the cables so it's closer to the psu then sleeve as normal till I reach it and cover it with heatshrink not the most original idea but I guess you go with what works. I'll have pics up soon as I get it done.


----------



## Aximous

Then you can just cut them off, putting the to the psu end defeats their purpose.


----------



## moe112

Well would it harm the hardware if it was removed?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moe112;11964167*
> Well would it harm the hardware if it was removed?


Read the two posts made by Tator Tot several posts back.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moe112;11964167*
> Well would it harm the hardware if it was removed?


I even addressed your particular units 2 posts above; the caps on the wires are actually there to reduce or negate the whine exhibited by some GPU's. That's why they're only on the PCIe lines.

With my unit, I've known for a fact that it does help with the GTX 200 Series GPU's.


----------



## moe112

Fair enough, sorry to be such a bother but I'm the "safe than sorry" kind of person. I guess I'll just have to figure out a way to make them less of an eye sore. Thanks.
Moe


----------



## ShadoX

G'day folks

Finally got around to starting up sleeving project. Done both PCI-e's atm, must say, they're looking good for a first time >)

Firstly, my weapon of choice (Standard auto electrician equipement







)
Heatblower for actually shrinking the heatshrink (doesn't burn the nice white HS), flame for a quick burn of both ends of the sleeving (i find the blower makes the ends expand and melt into a weird shape)
  

 

Start off with the ugly old Corsair sleeving (Glue heatshrink :S) Depinned and primed! (Depinning was a ***** until i worked out the staple method, now it takes like a minute to depin the whole plug







)
  

Sleeving on, heatshrink applied (took a few goes to work out the perfect spot so the pin would actually go into the connector once done)
  

Doing the "+2" portion of my 6+2pin PCI-e connectors, could have heatshrinked the whole thing but i think this turned out better










And done








  


Quick shot with the 2 sleeved cables up against one of the original cables (TX750 has 4 PCI connectors, only sleeving 2 as i only need 2...for now)



What do you think? Up next, the 24pin ATX and the 8pin (or 4x4 in my case) EPS connector

Also did the black Sata cables that come with Corsair 800D (for the hotswap bays), done in MDPC-X Sata sleeve/HS, look good too







Still gotta sleeve a Red sata cable for my DVD drive though

cheers

[edit] please note that the sleeving may look a little "loose" on some wires as its not pulled tight, the other end (psu side) hasn't been heatshrinked yet as i intend to put *all* of the PSU wires into 1 big black sleeved bundle (or several small bundles), make it a bit cleaner and hide the wires in the bottom of the case, they break out into individual white sleeves about half way along each wire


----------



## Onions

so i need help with sleeving i posted here:http://www.overclock.net/power-supplies/912165-help-my-power-supply-sleeving.html can someone help


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;11970030*
> so i need help with sleeving i posted here:http://www.overclock.net/power-supplies/912165-help-my-power-supply-sleeving.html can someone help


You already got the answer. Either snip it at the base or somewhere in between or remove the caps.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions;11970030*
> so i need help with sleeving i posted here:http://www.overclock.net/power-supplies/912165-help-my-power-supply-sleeving.html can someone help


Do whatever Tator Tot says to do. He probably knows more about it than all of the others posting in that thread combined and then some.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;11973633*
> Do whatever Tator Tot says to do. He probably knows more about it than all of the others posting in that thread combined and then some.


And he goes good with ketchup... wait your talking about the editor... nvm


----------



## dudenell

Alright so I finally read through this whole thread and after being oblivious to the differences in sleeving I think I've finally decided that MDPC is right for me and before I order I had a few question
1. What should I order for something like this? (extensions for fans and fan cables)








2. What the hell do I do about colors? apparently I was ******ed and managed to get blue cathodes and blue ram with my red motherboard. Now I have blue stickers on my corsair psu and 580 gtx (found the image for changing the color of the sticker for the 1000 watt psu. I don't have enough cash to go out and switch to corsair Dominator GT so it matches if I were to get red and black.

Here is what it looks like with my 480 installed:









Here is what it looks like currently with 580 (sorry it's not pretty and I couldn't get it to look good with cathodes on atm)









Basically its either red and black *or* AQUAMARINE-BLUE and black.. Any help would be appreciated









Was also thinking of modding that flashing red E to be blue... lol

PS I was thinking about copying this
http://www.overclock.net/10596008-post1879.html


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dudenell;11980719*
> 1. What should I order for something like this? (extensions for fans and fan cables)


I think you would want to use the USB sleeve for that. It's smaller than the SATA sleeve and larger than the single wire sleeve. You could possibly fit them all in the small sleeve but it may show the colors of the wires behind it.


----------



## MijnWraak

I'd say go blue and black. (or blue and gray or white







)You won't even see most of the motherboard's red (sucks that it uses so many red LEDs though) and you can always replace that without much loss of $$ as well.


----------



## Ragsters

I started trying to sleeve my 24 pin cable last night and what a disaster that was. The M-Toolkit sucks like crazy.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11318/too-26/ModSmart_Full_Pin_Removal_Tool_Kit_-_M-TOOLKIT.html?tl=g35c133
I think I am going to buy the molex brand one from Frozen. What do you guys think?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9388/slt-04/Original_Molex_Mini_Fit_Pin_Extraction_Tool_-_ATX_EPS_PCI-E.html?tl=g35c133


----------



## mastical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;11985332*
> I started trying to sleeve my 24 pin cable last night and what a disaster that was. The M-Toolkit sucks like crazy.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11318/too-26/ModSmart_Full_Pin_Removal_Tool_Kit_-_M-TOOLKIT.html?tl=g35c133
> I think I am going to buy the molex brand one from Frozen. What do you guys think?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9388/slt-04/Original_Molex_Mini_Fit_Pin_Extraction_Tool_-_ATX_EPS_PCI-E.html?tl=g35c133


I have the one in the first link except made by Sunbeam. It worked fine for me. Did you push the pin in as you stick the tool in the connector?


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;11985332*
> I started trying to sleeve my 24 pin cable last night and what a disaster that was. The M-Toolkit sucks like crazy.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11318/too-26/ModSmart_Full_Pin_Removal_Tool_Kit_-_M-TOOLKIT.html?tl=g35c133
> I think I am going to buy the molex brand one from Frozen. What do you guys think?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9388/slt-04/Original_Molex_Mini_Fit_Pin_Extraction_Tool_-_ATX_EPS_PCI-E.html?tl=g35c133


I have that kit, except it's a sunbeam kit. I took the tool for the 24-pin and I bent the tips in toward each other (VERY SLIGHTLY AND I MEAN *VERY*). This helped push the two lips on either side of the pin in and helped me get it out. Make sure to push the pin towards the tool as you use it to make sure the tool goes all the way into the housing.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastical;11985751*
> I have the one in the first link except made by Sunbeam. It worked fine for me. Did you push the pin in as you stick the tool in the connector?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrimpykins;11986209*
> I have that kit, except it's a sunbeam kit. I took the tool for the 24-pin and I bent the tips in toward each other (VERY SLIGHTLY AND I MEAN *VERY*). This helped push the two lips on either side of the pin in and helped me get it out. Make sure to push the pin towards the tool as you use it to make sure the tool goes all the way into the housing.


I don't know. Maybe the M-Toolkit is a cheaper version of the sunbeam kit. I mean really the pin extractor was horrible. Every time I pulled the tool out the sides of the pin, the tips would actually bend outwards.


----------



## Tator Tot

If you're looking for a new tool-kit I would get the Lamptron one.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot;11987289*
> If you're looking for a new tool-kit I would get the Lamptron one.


I was considering that one but was not sure of the quality. I know lamptron always delivers in quality but I do not know anyone who has used them (the kit).


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;11987512*
> I was considering that one but was not sure of the quality. I know lamptron always delivers in quality but I do not know anyone who has used them (the kit).


I've got it, and it's solid.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot;11987676*
> I've got it, and it's solid.


In that case I will get it.








I really just needed someone to back up the product.


----------



## dudenell

So does this look good or should I remove some of this? I decided to get extensions instead of doing the whole PSU as I really don't want to void the warranty on a 200$ part...


----------



## MijnWraak

Get 1 more pre-cut, as they're only .75m instead of 1m. (although, you'll probably waste a lot less than you would if you have non-pre-cut so they probably even out)

Need the pins for the crimper too?


----------



## charliehorse55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dudenell;11988829*
> So does this look good or should I remove some of this? I decided to get extensions instead of doing the whole PSU as I really don't want to void the warranty on a 200$ part...


Any of the modular cables can be modified without voiding the warranty.


----------



## dudenell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliehorse55;11989735*
> Any of the modular cables can be modified without voiding the warranty.


yeah issue is the 24 pin, the cpu cable and two of the 6+2 pin are NOT modular.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MijnWraak;11989048*
> Get 1 more pre-cut, as they're only .75m instead of 1m. (although, you'll probably waste a lot less than you would if you have non-pre-cut so they probably even out)
> 
> Need the pins for the crimper too?


crimper comes with:
* 1x MDPC Crimping-Tool
* 60x crimp contacts for fans
* 50x crimp contacts FEMALE for ATX, PCIE, EPS
* 50x crimp contacts MALE for ATX, PCIE, EPS
I already have some for most of what I need, If I need to grab housing ill just do something located in the US.

Ill grab another set of precut, thanks!


----------



## Quarker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nafljhy*


let me be the first to add to this thread.


----------



## Copenhagen69

LMAO... I was about to say that looks like dreadlocks and then I saw the picture


----------



## Onions

i seen the pic and was like wow thats talent you managed to sleeve some hair... then i realized


----------



## maximus20895

She also doesn't have eyebrows.


----------



## PapaSmurf

She doesn't have a lot of things.


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;11997590*
> She doesn't have a lot of things.


/troll

Talent for instance?

/troll

hehe, just kidding


----------



## PapaSmurf

Among other things. I was thinking of common sense and class primarily though.


----------



## shnur

I just got a package, I just got a package!!!










Opening the package:










Amazing! Now I never thought I'd say I'm happy to be sick, but thank God my doctor gave me an extra week and I feel good enough to do some "small work around the house"


----------



## Shrimpykins

That color-x is shmexy. I wish I had a black/red board (like EVGA or RoG) so I could use some in my PSU for my HTPC.


----------



## shnur

I'll be posting more pictures with a better camera than my phone and in different lighting as well when I get a chance to!


----------



## ckybam3

If you guys bought a ax850 would you sleeve it? I am thinking its not worth it since i kinda like the non sleeved wire look on this psu and they did a pretty decent job of sleeving it for a factory sleeving.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ckybam3*


If you guys bought a ax850 would you sleeve it? I am thinking its not worth it since i kinda like the non sleeved wire look on this psu and they did a pretty decent job of sleeving it for a factory sleeving.


The only opinion that matters is yours. If you think it looks fine the way it is then don't. You are the one who has to look at it.


----------



## MijnWraak

Yeah the black wires are usually hard to spot anyway and don't make your eyes bleed. Usually its the Rainbow Diarrhea coming out of other PSUs that need it the most.


----------



## shnur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mijnwraak*


yeah the black wires are usually hard to spot anyway and don't make your eyes bleed. Usually its the rainbow diarrhea coming out of other psus that need it the most.


----------



## ShadoX

just finished sleeving everything up, tried to get it as clean as possible, tell me what you think


----------



## MijnWraak

Looks fantastic! Share your secret on how to keep your sata heatshrink on though; I must have wasted half of my shrink on one cable (then gave up leaving it hanging on the cable)

edit: you even left the 6+2 connector intact! *slow clap*


----------



## ShadoX

lol yeah i did like a mini-sleeve on the extra 2 pins (getting the earth terminals with the double wires back in was a pain in the arse though







)

Also i forgot to mention, ignore the Intel CPU HSF wires, im actually a Watercooler and im just waiting for my White tubing to turn up, the coolers just temporary









Heres a few close-ups









 

As for the Sata sleeve, there only problem i really has was too much heat, a little bit too much and i found the shrink will split very easily, so i just went slow on low heat and didn't have any issues, heres a red cable i did for my DVD drive (i did the black 800D cables too but only half way as the rest is hidden in the hotswap bay anyway)

  

  

ps, heres some i posted earlier in the thread that seem to have been skipped over
http://www.overclock.net/11969019-post3163.html


----------



## MijnWraak

I've never seen that post in my life . Only tip I can give is to put the sleeving a little further up next time (3mm from the beginning of the metal pin was perfect for me iirc) that way the "bump" isn't noticable.


----------



## Ragsters

Has anyone sleeved a Seasonic X-650/750? I just received my Lamptron toolkit in the mail today and am trying to sleeve my PSU. Is it me or is this PSU particularly hard to sleeve?


----------



## MijnWraak

Mine was a breeze. Try a staple!

Flatten out staple, bend at as close to middle as possible so that it fits into connector in between housing and pin.


----------



## Haze_hellivo

My custom sleeving without heatshrink. This sleeving is hard to do but looks excelent.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


Mine was a breeze. Try a staple!

Flatten out staple, bend at as close to middle as possible so that it fits into connector in between housing and pin.


I wish you can send me one.







I tried it with a staple and it was just too flimsy. I would love to see pics of your sleeving job.


----------



## MijnWraak

My pictures would never give the sleeve justice. I'm an awful photographer with a cheap camera, not a great combination xD. Plus I only finished the 8-pin and half the 6-pins


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MijnWraak;12025847*
> My pictures would never give the sleeve justice. I'm an awful photographer with a cheap camera, not a great combination xD. Plus I only finished the 8-pin and half the 6-pins


lol. I thought you said your was a breeze.


----------



## Rowey

what size heatshrink should i use, im braiding my cables from my power supply. how much should i order?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roweyi7;12026392*
> what size heatshrink should i use, im braiding my cables from my power supply. how much should i order?


Measure the length of each of the cable bundles, multiply by the number of wires in each bundle, add all of that together, then add 10 to 20% extra to know how much sleeve to order.

To determine how much heatshrink, multiply" to 3/4" on each end tens to look the best) the number of total wires you will be sleeving times 1.5" (most people think 5/ and add 25 to 35% since you will waste a lot more heatshrink than you will sleeve during the learning process.

As for what size heatshrink to get, it depends on where you get it from and is it 2:1, 3:1, or 4:1 shrink ratio. Most of the places you get your sleeve from will list the appropriate hs size for the sleeve. Since you are in the UK you will probably be ordering from MDPC-X and Nils does list the correct HS for the sleeve on his website.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12026347*
> lol. I thought you said your was a breeze.


Oh believe me it was a breeze, but a breeze when it's 10 degrees out is chilly







But no, when you have work every day and have a girlfriend to tend to and homework to try to finish and school 7 hours a day while the computer the PSU is in is being used as a living room HTPC makes it hard to finish when you want it to be perfect


----------



## Morizuno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12025428*
> Has anyone sleeved a Seasonic X-650/750? I just received my Lamptron toolkit in the mail today and am trying to sleeve my PSU. Is it me or is this PSU particularly hard to sleeve?


when i did it, i needed to spread out the pins a bit and then put them into the connector. It took me a good day to sleeve the 24-pin because it is indeed hard


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;12026609*
> when i did it, i needed to spread out the pins a bit and then put them into the connector. It took me a good day to sleeve the 24-pin because it is indeed hard


I just can't for the life of me get the pins out.


----------



## Morizuno

yeah, it's pretty hard. if all else fails I believe you can cut the wires off the connector, recrimp and put them inside a new connector.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;12026766*
> yeah, it's pretty hard. if all else fails I believe you can cut the wires off the connector, recrimp and put them inside a new connector.


I would cut the connector off instead since you would be replacing it anyway. No sense in cutting the wires and re-crimping them.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12026786*
> I would cut the connector off instead since you would be replacing it anyway. No sense in cutting the wires and re-crimping them.


I was just thinking that today but don't have a clue on how to do that without messing up the pins.


----------



## PapaSmurf

A very sharp exacto knife or box cutter. Cut from the wire side down the side to the plug side.


----------



## ShadoX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MijnWraak;12025279*
> I've never seen that post in my life . Only tip I can give is to put the sleeving a little further up next time (3mm from the beginning of the metal pin was perfect for me iirc) that way the "bump" isn't noticable.


Hahaha yeah it got completely skipped over cause everyone was distracted by someone posting questions everywhere







its on page 317.

And what do you mean further up, like up the wire, or closer to the terminal? i put it right inline with the back of the terminal atleast then i know they'll all be in line, i tried going over the terminal a little but the heatshrink doesn't fit within the connector so that idea was out








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12026742*
> I just can't for the life of me get the pins out.


I had a real hard time when i started getting them out but once you figure it out it really is easy, if you try staples, make sure to use *2* staples each side of the terminal, one is just too flimsy IMO.

I actually made a little tutorial (no much interest in it on this board but its there non the less) - check it out it might help you


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShadoX;12028125*
> Hahaha yeah it got completely skipped over cause everyone was distracted by someone posting questions everywhere
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its on page 317.
> 
> And what do you mean further up, like up the wire, or closer to the terminal? i put it right inline with the back of the terminal atleast then i know they'll all be in line, i tried going over the terminal a little but the heatshrink doesn't fit within the connector so that idea was out


Yeah closer to the actual metal pin, right where the wings fold over the wire. A good tip to help it fit into the connector: place the cable into the connector while the heatshrink is still hot and malleable. That makes it a lot easier to get the sleeve closer to the end and remove the "bump". I found that having a clamp of some sort helped so it doesnt move either as the heatshrink has a tendency to push the sleeve back out when heated again (I shrink, place in connector, remove, then shrink again so they don't come loose)


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShadoX*


Hahaha yeah it got completely skipped over cause everyone was distracted by someone posting questions everywhere







its on page 317.

And what do you mean further up, like up the wire, or closer to the terminal? i put it right inline with the back of the terminal atleast then i know they'll all be in line, i tried going over the terminal a little but the heatshrink doesn't fit within the connector so that idea was out









I had a real hard time when i started getting them out but once you figure it out it really is easy, if you try staples, make sure to use *2* staples each side of the terminal, one is just too flimsy IMO.

I actually made a little tutorial (no much interest in it on this board but its there non the less) - check it out it might help you


I tried my lamptron tool on a 24 pin extension that I had and it was cake to remove. I really think the X-650 cables are just really hard to remove. I will try the staple method next. Thanks!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Ragsters, forgive me if someone has already suggested it, but giving the connectors a bit of a blast with a hair dryer really helped me out a lot. Sure I don't have the same unit, but I too was having a lot of trouble getting the pins out until PapaSmurf suggested that method. Worked an absolute charm on EVERY pin that I was struggling to get out.


----------



## skwannabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno;12026609*
> when i did it, i needed to spread out the pins a bit and then put them into the connector. It took me a good day to sleeve the 24-pin because it is indeed hard


And one of the 24-pin cord is really thin. I've ripped two of them so far and I'm waiting upon my third 24-pin cable. I'm going to buy a dedicated to kit to sleeve this cord.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skwannabe;12036368*
> And one of the 24-pin cord is really thin. I've ripped two of them so far and I'm waiting upon my third 24-pin cable. I'm going to buy a dedicated to kit to sleeve this cord.


lol. I ripped that one off too. I already got a replacement.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12035161*
> Ragsters, forgive me if someone has already suggested it, but giving the connectors a bit of a blast with a hair dryer really helped me out a lot. Sure I don't have the same unit, but I too was having a lot of trouble getting the pins out until PapaSmurf suggested that method. Worked an absolute charm on EVERY pin that I was struggling to get out.


So does it soften the metal?


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12036586*
> So does it soften the metal?


Actually I think it softens or expands the connector


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12036586*
> So does it soften the metal?


No, it softens the plastic of the connector.


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r




----------



## MijnWraak

Okay give it up. Show us your secret micro-robot slave that does all your work!


----------



## Ragsters

Are you kidding me with those Crys1s_Gam3r?







I never seen something so beautiful in my life.


----------



## Tator Tot

It's all actually just 3D/GCI rendering


----------



## MijnWraak




----------



## PapaSmurf

Martin, every time you post your newest sleeve job I become even more determined to NEVER post pics (specially close-up's) of any sleeving I do.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Yeah it does just soften the plastic of the connector Ragsters. Not much, but just enough for the pin to slip out. After that removing the pin will be much easier


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Yeah it does just soften the plastic of the connector Ragsters. Not much, but just enough for the pin to slip out. After that removing the pin will be much easier










Thanks!


----------



## fshizl

Martin do you cut the sleeve all to the same size or do you measure the sleeve individually per cable?


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

No robot (unfortunately).









Thank you Ragsters.









papaSmurf: I certainly hope not! My intention has never been to deter; if anything, it is to inspire









Carlos: Depends on whether or not I'm using the same roll of sleeve. Different rolls are stretched slightly differently (and even occasionally in the same roll), so to avoid inconsistencies I'll just remeasure when necessary. Hope that helps.


----------



## shnur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r;12058900*
> No robot (unfortunately).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Ragsters.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> papaSmurf: I certainly hope not! My intention has never been to deter; if anything, it is to inspire
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Carlos: Depends on whether or not I'm using the same roll of sleeve. Different rolls are stretched slightly differently (and even occasionally in the same roll), so to avoid inconsistencies I'll just remeasure when necessary. Hope that helps.


Looks amazing!


----------



## Copenhagen69

i really like that combo martin ... keep up the good work!


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


No, it softens the plastic of the connector.


So it worked! I finally was able to take out the pins. Without this tip I don't know what I would do. Thanks again to all who suggested it.


----------



## Ragsters

Sorry for the double post but I had a question. Does it matter which way I put the pins back in the connector? I obviously don't mean the location but its orientation within the hole (crimp facing up or down).


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


So it worked! I finally was able to take out the pins. Without this tip I don't know what I would do. Thanks again to all who suggested it.










Good deal. Glad you were able to get it.







:


----------



## Choopy!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r*


No robot (unfortunately).









Thank you Ragsters.









papaSmurf: I certainly hope not! My intention has never been to deter; if anything, it is to inspire









Carlos: Depends on whether or not I'm using the same roll of sleeve. Different rolls are stretched slightly differently (and even occasionally in the same roll), so to avoid inconsistencies I'll just remeasure when necessary. Hope that helps.




























This color scheme sort of makes me think about Commander Shepard's armor on his right arm in Mass Effect. Really cool!

Also, superb job in general, cleanest sleeving I've seen!


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12063018*
> Sorry for the double post but I had a question. Does it matter which way I put the pins back in the connector? I obviously don't mean the location but its orientation within the hole (crimp facing up or down).


I'm sure you found out already, but yes as it only allows it to be placed in the correct position (all crimp points on the same side)


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12062998*
> So it worked! I finally was able to take out the pins. Without this tip I don't know what I would do. Thanks again to all who suggested it.


Great! I think we should probably even have that little trick filed under the 'tips' section of the first post. It's worked well for everyone I've talked to that has tried it thus far.


----------



## skwannabe

Anyone have any advices on keeping the heat shrink on the wiring and not exposing the wire while in the connector? My heat shrinks are starting to come off and exposing the wires.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skwannabe*


Anyone have any advices on keeping the heat shrink on the wiring and not exposing the wire while in the connector? My heat shrinks are starting to come off and exposing the wires.


what heatshrink are you using?


----------



## skwannabe

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=44_935&products_id=27809


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I've been getting a bit of that too with my MDPC stuff. I daresay I just need more practice. It was the first time I'd ever sleeved a non-daisy chain cable.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


I'm sure you found out already, but yes as it only allows it to be placed in the correct position (all crimp points on the same side)


I'm not sure if that is true in my case. I found myself being able to flip it if I wanted to.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


I'm not sure if that is true in my case. I found myself being able to flip it if I wanted to.


X-650? No it only goes in one way. It goes in like 80% of the way upside down, but won't go fully in from what I tried. (was also a million times easier to get the sleeving closer to the end if I put it in the "correct" way anyway so no point in putting it in upside down. giggity)


----------



## godofdeath

anyone here do pin removal as a service?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


X-650? No it only goes in one way. It goes in like 80% of the way upside down, but won't go fully in from what I tried. (was also a million times easier to get the sleeving closer to the end if I put it in the "correct" way anyway so no point in putting it in upside down. giggity)


Maybe your right. I guess I thought, because it foes 80% of the way, that I was able to go that way if I wanted to. Lets say I did put it in the "wrong" way would anything happen?


----------



## AusPC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


Maybe your right. I guess I thought, because it foes 80% of the way, that I was able to go that way if I wanted to. Lets say I did put it in the "wrong" way would anything happen?


 No, It shouldn't be a problem as long as the pin doesn't slide out of the actual connector


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


Maybe your right. I guess I thought, because it foes 80% of the way, that I was able to go that way if I wanted to. Lets say I did put it in the "wrong" way would anything happen?


Then the tabs that hold it in didn't pop out and they aren't doing their job. Vibration will work it's course and you'll lose a connection on a wire.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

So what do you guys think would be a good combo for red, black, and white?

I'd love to do just r,b,w throughout but I wanted to switch it up a bit for each cable.


----------



## AusPC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*


So what do you guys think would be a good combo for red, black, and white?

I'd love to do just r,b,w throughout but I wanted to switch it up a bit for each cable.


 IMO Highlights are the Key, So be creative and Submit your ideas like this

6 Pin
B-W-R
R-B-W








Jason


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shrimpykins*


Then the tabs that hold it in didn't pop out and they aren't doing their job. Vibration will work it's course and you'll lose a connection on a wire.


I'm not an idiot. I pulled every cable like 10 times to check if they stay.

Edit: I fixed my grammar and misspelling


----------



## AusPC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


I not an idiot. I pull every cable like 10 time to check if its gonna stay.


 In that case you have nothing to lose nor gain


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mijason4*


In that case you have nothing to lose nor gain










I'm not sure what that means but I think I'm going to edit my post because of all the grammar mistakes. It makes me look like an idiot especially when I wrote that I'm not an idiot.


----------



## Chewy3399

So after reading far far far too many pages of this thread I've decided that I want to sleeve all the cables in the new build I'm putting together soon, my main delema right now is colour because I am going to use the CM HaF 932 case which has red fans, and the ASUS P8P67 Pro MB which has blue highlights. So which colour of sleeves do you think I should use?

Also is performance-pcs.com a decent place to get sleeving from? I quite like their pricing.


----------



## PapaSmurf

If you just want the sleeve for cable management then the PPC's stuff is okay. If you want it for looks then I would look elsewhere. The color of the wire's insulation shows through quite a bit more than it does with the MCPC-X or even the Kobra from KoolerTek or FrozenCPU or the black Clean Cut from Furry Letters.

What it boils down to is go cheap and let the wire's color show through a lot or spend more and have very little to no bleed through.


----------



## Lutro0

Anyone in here ever sleeve a Seasonic x-750, Man those atx connectors are in there good. I have cuts on my hands where the sharp edges of the connector dug in lol. The atx "clips" are locked in the out position slightly with pins that ive never run into before, even with a mdpc atx tool you still have to gorilla grip them puppies... they do eventually come out.









Just ranting a tad...


----------



## Chewy3399

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12090832*
> If you just want the sleeve for cable management then the PPC's stuff is okay. If you want it for looks then I would look elsewhere. The color of the wire's insulation shows through quite a bit more than it does with the MCPC-X or even the Kobra from KoolerTek or FrozenCPU or the black Clean Cut from Furry Letters.
> 
> What it boils down to is go cheap and let the wire's color show through a lot or spend more and have very little to no bleed through.


Ah I had assumed that it was only cheaper due to the fact that you get a discount for buying more as they both start at the same price. I'm going somewhat for looks which is why I'm concerned about colours.


----------



## Shane1244

Colour sleeving = MDPC
Black Sleeving = Clean Cut


----------



## Chewy3399

MDPC is rather expensive for my tastes, specially being as I have to ship it to Canada.
EDIT: I take that back, when you read the sleeve comes in 10m lengths you stop putting in 20 thinking your getting 200ft.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chewy3399*


MDPC is rather expensive for my tastes, specially being as I have to ship it to Canada.


In that case your only viable alternative would be to go with the BLACK Clean Cut from Furry Letters. There is no high quality color sleeve that costs appreciably less than MDPC-X. The colored Kobra is fine if you only need a few feet to do some fans, but since they more than doubled the price of it a couple of months ago it's as expensive as MDPC-X is even with overseas shipping. You might save a couple of bucks, but it really isn't worth it due to the quality disparity.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chewy3399*


MDPC is rather expensive for my tastes, specially being as I have to ship it to Canada.
EDIT: I take that back, when you read the sleeve comes in 10m lengths you stop putting in 20 thinking your getting 200ft.


Lol, I have to ship to New Zealand. I don't think it ended up being all that expensive tbh, but in saying that, I'm only sleeving the visible cables.


----------



## Chewy3399

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


In that case your only viable alternative would be to go with the BLACK Clean Cut from Furry Letters. There is no high quality color sleeve that costs appreciably less than MDPC-X. The colored Kobra is fine if you only need a few feet to do some fans, but since they more than doubled the price of it a couple of months ago it's as expensive as MDPC-X is even with overseas shipping. You might save a couple of bucks, but it really isn't worth it due to the quality disparity.


You must have replied just before I put me edit in







. I think that MDPC is a pretty decent price so now I just need to decide colours. Still looking for tips on how to make that work.

A little OT but is it possible to remove the red led's from the fan in the front of my case and replace them with blue ones to go for a blue theme?


----------



## vonVanir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chewy3399*


You must have replied just before I put me edit in







. I think that MDPC is a pretty decent price so now I just need to decide colours. Still looking for tips on how to make that work.

A little OT but is it possible to remove the red led's from the fan in the front of my case and replace them with blue ones to go for a blue theme?


yes though a bit of skill is needed and some tools 
TDN1979 made a great post on how to install ur own LEDs here all fans are not made the same and all LEDs are not the same size as well, look up what you got and get the right products. With a steady hand this is very easy and very rewarding! It's sooo much easier to just replace old ones with new ones, just cut and solder


----------



## shnur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chewy3399*


MDPC is rather expensive for my tastes, specially being as I have to ship it to Canada.
EDIT: I take that back, when you read the sleeve comes in 10m lengths you stop putting in 20 thinking your getting 200ft.


I had multiple packages sent over and when you don't order any tools or heavy stuff, it's a small package (9 euro's ship).


----------



## Lutro0

Speaking of mdpc, thought I would share this =P


----------



## PapaSmurf

What colors did you get?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


What colors did you get?


I got red and black, its not for my mod, its for a few cables for a client.


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Speaking of mdpc, thought I would share this =P











thats an awesome drawing! you should frame it!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


thats an awesome drawing! you should frame it!


LOL, I thought about it. Its probably going to go on my tack board in my office.


----------



## Lutro0

Well I finished one cable so far, Its not super epic Martin Quality







, I might have to steal one of his super megagigabite sleeving robots.


----------



## PapaSmurf

That looks awful close if you ask me.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12097003*
> That looks awful close if you ask me.


Thanks bro! The heatshrink from mdpc is a little different than what I am used to working with, I like it a ton, I just have to watch how it shrinks alot more.


----------



## Shane1244

10 pin?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shane1244;12097054*
> 10 pin?


The 10 pin side is the psu plug side of the 8pin cpu power cord for a Seasonic X-750.


----------



## Shane1244

Ohh derp! I\m dumbbb lollo


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Woah Lutro0! That looks seriously good! I think you did a great job!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


Ohh derp! I\\m dumbbb lollo


Naw not in the least lol, itâ€™s an odd connector. I donâ€™t see why they left those pins empty. Iâ€™m assuming they are used on the higher models and they just kept the form to ease manufacturing.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Woah Lutro0! That looks seriously good! I think you did a great job!


Thanks! Now if I could only learn how to use a camera properly







I would be set lol.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Naw not in the least lol, it's an odd connector. I don't see why they left those pins empty. I'm assuming they are used on the higher models and they just kept the form to ease manufacturing.


The X-750/650 comes with two different 8 pin CPU cables. You are using the weird looking one. By the way that is a great sleeving job. Also can you tell me your method? Length of sleeving and shrink?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Woah Lutro0! That looks seriously good! I think you did a great job!


You got that right. He's scary good at this stuff. Have you checked out his Katheros worklog yet?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


You got that right. He's scary good at this stuff. Have you checked out his Katheros worklog yet?


LOL







Thanks man!


----------



## Phatal

Love the work your doing with my cables Lutro0! Keep up the good work, maybe I'll have them by Tuesday-Thursday this week. Rep +


----------



## Ragsters

I have seen many threads where they sleeve the cables and route the cables so that the connection is directly across each other. What I mean is that the cables don't intertwine each other. So I guess my question is does it matter where I put the cables as long as the black (ground) cable is where the black cables are and the yellow (12V) goes where the yellow are?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


I have seen many threads where they sleeve the cables and route the cables so that the connection is directly across each other. What I mean is that the cables don't intertwine each other. So I guess my question is does it matter where I put the cables as long as the black (ground) cable is where the black cables are and the yellow (12V) goes where the yellow are?


Yes and no. As long as you are referring to the yellow and black that were from a specific connector it doesn't matter as long as they stay with that connector. Where it could matter is taking a yellow wire from say the 8 pin EPS and putting it in the 8 pin PCI-E connector as they might be on different rails which could mess up the regulation.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12105934*
> Yes and no. As long as you are referring to the yellow and black that were from a specific connector it doesn't matter as long as they stay with that connector. Where it could matter is taking a yellow wire from say the 8 pin EPS and putting it in the 8 pin PCI-E connector as they might be on different rails which could mess up the regulation.


I'm not sure if I understand. Why would I take a wire from one cable and put it a completely different cable? Lets take for example my 8 pin (CPU) cable. On one side of the connectors all the cables are yellow and on the other side black. Can I just mix and match the blacks with the blacks and the yellows with the yellows? Again my goal is not to have any cables intertwine.


----------



## PapaSmurf

As long as they are from the same connector yes.

EDIT: Some people have been known to remove ALL of the wires from ALL of the connectors at once to sleeve them. That is why I brought up not switching from one connector to another. I just wanted to completely cover the situation.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12106199*
> As long as they are from the same connector yes.
> 
> EDIT: Some people have been known to remove ALL of the wires from ALL of the connectors at once to sleeve them. That is why I brought up not switching from one connector to another. I just wanted to completely cover the situation.


Thanks! So just to clear things up, because that black wires are just the ground wires and the yellows are the 12V wires it doesn't matter where they go on the connector as long as they go on the corresponding ground side or 12V side of the connector. I also want to point out that I am speaking in terms of modular cables.


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

Nice job lutro


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12106473*
> Thanks! So just to clear things up, because that black wires are just the ground wires and the yellows are the 12V wires it doesn't matter where they go on the connector as long as they go on the corresponding ground side or 12V side of the connector. I also want to point out that I am speaking in terms of modular cables.


Correct.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

How far do people usually put the heatshrink up to on the pin?

Here's an image


----------



## Lutro0

I do it like so.










And this was using clean cut sleeving and 3:1 techflex HS. The HS is a little on the long side because it had to be to grip the sleeve. But the position on the pin is where it should be.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Thanks.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;12108063*
> Thanks.


Not a problem.


----------



## ZainyAntics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r;12107532*
> Nice job lutro


...What camera do you have?


----------



## Shane1244

Canon Rebel T2i


----------



## Drakenxile

I dunno if i should post this here but i'm interested in Sleeving my PSU I'm switching my 800D for a Phantom soon and i wouldn't mind having all white sleeving i checked the 2 sites for sleeving and i was just wondering if anyone has other places they get there sleeving supply's doesnt need to be white just would prefer to have a choice is all and budget is a lil low


----------



## PapaSmurf

White is tricky. Even the best white from MDPC-X lets some of the color of the wire show through. But basically Furry Letters Black Clean Cut is good. For any other colors it's MDPC-X or you either pay more for less or you just get much lower quality sleeve. If you are ordering from MDPC-Z anyway you might as well get his black as it's a bit better than the CleenCut from FL.

Kobra is good, but unless you are only getting a few feet to sleeve some fans it's not cost effective any more.

Some people use Paracord, but I haven't tried it so I can't recommend it one way or the other. There is a thread around here somewhere about it if you do a search.


----------



## Drakenxile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12108884*
> White is tricky. Even the best white from MDPC-X lets some of the color of the wire show through. But basically Furry Letters Black Clean Cut is good. For any other colors it's MDPC-X or you either pay more for less or you just get much lower quality sleeve. If you are ordering from MDPC-Z anyway you might as well get his black as it's a bit better than the CleenCut from FL.
> 
> Kobra is good, but unless you are only getting a few feet to sleeve some fans it's not cost effective any more.
> 
> Some people use Paracord, but I haven't tried it so I can't recommend it one way or the other. There is a thread around here somewhere about it if you do a search.


allright thanks i'll check into not sure if im going white or not if i get a white phantom i want them white and black if red then i want em red and black

i think i'll mix the colors up a bit could be fun i really look forward to it. it's going to be in a couple weeks/months but i wanna get started with the reasearch now so whens i get the money i'm all set to go


----------



## AdvanSuper

On average what does someone typically spend to sleeve a PSU?


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12109711*
> On average what does someone typically spend to sleeve a PSU?


That is a very subjective question.









Moreover, You have to take into consideration the Colours which you want, Quality Of the Sleeving and Heatshrink as well as the way in which you want so sleeve (Single Sleeve) or (Bundled).









Cheers - Jason.


----------



## AdvanSuper

I'm aware that's why I said on average as to what's usually to be expected and I figured this would be the perfect place to ask.


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12109799*
> I'm aware that's why I said on average as to what's usually to be expected and I figured this would be the perfect place to ask.


People spend from $80.00 to $100.00 + on Sleeving







However some more input from other Cable Sleevers might help you more


----------



## MijnWraak

I usually spend at least $100.

I justify it, personally, because I'm very frugal when it comes to buying crap from big-chain-stores and when I come across a company which to me is worth spending money at (MDPC-X, Rivendell Bicycles, etc.) then I can take the money I saved by not being an impulse shopper and spend it there and be quite happy. It's always like a second christmas when I get a nice big expensive package in the mail, especially when it has a personalized drawing on it


----------



## skwannabe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Anyone in here ever sleeve a Seasonic x-750, Man those atx connectors are in there good. I have cuts on my hands where the sharp edges of the connector dug in lol. The atx "clips" are locked in the out position slightly with pins that ive never run into before, even with a mdpc atx tool you still have to gorilla grip them puppies... they do eventually come out.









Just ranting a tad...










Be careful of the thin orange cable from the 24-pin cable.


----------



## shnur

I spent about 200$ now and haven't sleeved my PSU yet >.<
I did sleeve all my fan cables, front panel and a secondary 400W PSU. 
I must say that maybe 60-80$ of that was to get the tools; ATX pin-remover, molex remover and later on a crimping tool because I ripped out some pins








Now I'm just going to find a good 80+ gold modular PSU before attacking it; I have a cart on MDPC with about 70$ extra for my Grand-Bleu sleeving that I want to add to my build









On a side note; Color-X is amazing, it's a very dark red when there isn't much light (or light bulb) and on the sun it goes into a brighter red. Very pretty


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I sleeved my psu, one question. With the 8-pin power connection for the mobo (4-pin) Can I just unplug the other 4 wires I dont need to plug into the mobo? Heres a picture of what Im talking about.









Also, how will i go about checking the power of the cables? To make sure I plugged everything back in right before setting up my computer


----------



## fshizl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r*


Nice job lutro



















As you walk to the back room to go pet your sleeving robot, "God job robot, youve done well."

lol


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*


I spent about 200$ now and haven't sleeved my PSU yet >.<
I did sleeve all my fan cables, front panel and a secondary 400W PSU. 
I must say that maybe 60-80$ of that was to get the tools; ATX pin-remover, molex remover and later on a crimping tool because I ripped out some pins








Now I'm just going to find a good 80+ gold modular PSU before attacking it; I have a cart on MDPC with about 70$ extra for my Grand-Bleu sleeving that I want to add to my build









On a side note; Color-X is amazing, it's a very dark red when there isn't much light (or light bulb) and on the sun it goes into a brighter red. Very pretty










You have Colour-X?! Nice! I saw it just yesterday and think I will have to buy some. Not that I have a build to put it into or anything, I just would love to have some added to my ever growing sleeve collection haha.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


You have Colour-X?! Nice! I saw it just yesterday and think I will have to buy some. Not that I have a build to put it into or anything, I just would love to have some added to my ever growing sleeve collection haha.


No collection is complete without some clean cut









On a side note... IM BLEEEDING =( need to invest in a vise of some sort.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;12114786*
> No collection is complete without some clean cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a side note... IM BLEEEDING =( need to invest in a vise of some sort.


Please post all your completed cables when you are finished. I would love some inspiration.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;12114786*
> No collection is complete without some clean cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a side note... IM BLEEEDING =( need to invest in a vise of some sort.


Clean Cut was the very first stuff I got


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12117893*
> Clean Cut was the very first stuff I got


Me too










Edit: I lied. I just remembered the first stuff i ever bought was a sleeving kit from Vantec. That was definitely a disaster.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12117904*
> Me too


I think I may have to switch to MDPC though as I find that the MDPC stuff is just a tad bigger and makes the Clean Cut look out of place. This could just be me being a bit OCD though.


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12118410*
> I think I may have to switch to MDPC though as I find that the MDPC stuff is just a tad bigger and makes the Clean Cut look out of place. This could just be me being a bit OCD though.


Hey for all the People who've used Clean Cut from Barry. If you had the time could you please measure the internal ID of the Sleeve when it's unstretched. Preferably using a Vernier .

Cheers - Jason.


----------



## PapaSmurf

My first sleeve made Furry Letter's PET look high quality. That was before OCN was even created though.


----------



## shnur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12114754*
> You have Colour-X?! Nice! I saw it just yesterday and think I will have to buy some. Not that I have a build to put it into or anything, I just would love to have some added to my ever growing sleeve collection haha.


Well; you can ask Nils for a sample, I'm pretty sure he can send you one by normal postage









I'm unsure if you'll like it though, with your flashy green









It's a rather "dark" color that changes intensity depending on the light. I love it under the sunlight, it's very a very Moulin-Rouge color...

I never though I'd be describing a color, and that it would be so hard!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;12114786*
> No collection is complete without some clean cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a side note... IM BLEEEDING =( need to invest in a vise of some sort.


Clean cut from furry? I don't own any







I do have some weird gray sleeving that looks like PET sleeving, it was on the fan cable that I bought off somebody... now it's replaced by Color-X and it's very pretty!

If I can get the ImageShack app work on my phone, I'll upload some pictures


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12118487*
> My first sleeve made Furry Letter's PET look high quality. That was before OCN was even created though.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12117302*
> Please post all your completed cables when you are finished. I would love some inspiration.


I don't know if I have the patience to take a photo of them all, but Ill take a few pics lol Taking pictures frustrates me to no end, I have allot to learn in that area.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur;12118513*
> Well; you can ask Nils for a sample, I'm pretty sure he can send you one by normal postage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm unsure if you'll like it though, with your flashy green
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a rather "dark" color that changes intensity depending on the light. I love it under the sunlight, it's very a very Moulin-Rouge color...
> 
> I never though I'd be describing a color, and that it would be so hard!


I'm an artist, so I have a great appreciation for many many colours







The photo he uploaded for it on the store page does seem to give a very deceptive hue. Chances are I'll probably have to order from MDPC again sometime soon (when I sleeve my boyfriend's PSU) so I'll get some at the same time. Can't wait!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;12118536*
> LOL, I have a ton of blue pet laying around, it kind of just gets in the way when I dig through my sleeving drawer. That and the billion different kinds of heatshrink >.<


That old PET was basically only good for adding a bit of color and for cable management. Back then UV Lights with UV reactive fans, sleeve, water cooling tubes/coolant, and mobo slots like the DFI Lan Party boards were all the rage so the wire colors bleeding through the sleeve was barely noticeable. We didn't single sleeve back then so it worked fine to keep the cable bundles separated from each other.


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;12118536*
> LOL, I have a ton of blue pet laying around, it kind of just gets in the way when I dig through my sleeving drawer. That and the billion different kinds of heatshrink >.<


Meh, Imagine going through 3 Pallets of that stuff


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12118718*
> That old PET was basically only good for adding a bit of color and for cable management. Back then UV Lights with UV reactive fans, sleeve, water cooling tubes/coolant, and mobo slots like the DFI Lan Party boards were all the rage so the wire colors bleeding through the sleeve was barely noticeable. We didn't single sleeve back then so it worked fine to keep the cable bundles separated from each other.


Very true. Luke sleeved a good number of cables during that period of time and I giggled a bit because it was UV green PET sleeve and it was ugly as can be. Of course it fit in perfectly with what was popular at the time but by today's heightened standards, it looks tacky as anything!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12118837*
> Very true. Luke sleeved a good number of cables during that period of time and I giggled a bit because it was UV green PET sleeve and it was ugly as can be. Of course it fit in perfectly with what was popular at the time but by today's heightened standards, it looks tacky as anything!


I made one of those rigs for my youngest daughter (who is a few years older than you are). She got a newer case with better airflow and a new psu late last year and now wants me to sleeve her new psu like I did the old one with the UV Green sleeve in that style of grouped sleeve instead of individual sleeve. She also wants me to find a UV Purple round floppy drive cable that is long enough to reach the mobo connector on the board. UV Green sleeve and fans with UV Purple cables.


----------



## oliverw92

updated


----------



## shnur

Since I've decided not to sleeve my current PSU, I went ahead and sleeved all the other cables in my case








Since I want a dark-blue/dark-red/dark-black combo I didn't sleeve the other SATA cables.

Did anybody sleeve their front panel USB cables? If yes, what/how?

Here's what it looks like for now:


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur;12119293*
> Since I've decided not to sleeve my current PSU, I went ahead and sleeved all the other cables in my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I want a dark-blue/dark-red/dark-black combo I didn't sleeve the other SATA cables.
> 
> Did anybody sleeve their front panel USB cables? If yes, what/how?
> 
> Here's what it looks like for now:


Good Work







, Now sleeve that PSU of yours









Cheers - Jason.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur;12119293*
> Since I've decided not to sleeve my current PSU, I went ahead and sleeved all the other cables in my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I want a dark-blue/dark-red/dark-black combo I didn't sleeve the other SATA cables.
> 
> Did anybody sleeve their front panel USB cables? If yes, what/how?


I did. Used 1/4" Kobra from KoolerTek for them.


----------



## shnur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12119443*
> I did. Used 1/4" Kobra from KoolerTek for them.


I'm using MDPC stuff exclusively; that would be the SATA sleeving I guess?


----------



## Lutro0

Sorry if that's too many >.< Worked on my photo taking a tad.
You will notice the hs up the sleeve a tad, I found that to be the best way (at least that I know of) to handle the double wires, Because if you have ever tried to stuff a 2 sleeved wires into one atx slot, well it doesn't work out all that great. It isn't perfect but it works.


----------



## AusPC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*











Sorry if that's too many >.< Worked on my photo taking a tad. 
You will notice the hs up the sleeve a tad, I found that to be the best way (at least that I know of) to handle the double wires, Because if you have ever tried to stuff a 2 sleeved wires into one atx slot, well it doesn't work out all that great. It isn't perfect but it works.










 Nice Lutro0









I think you need to stretch the MDPC-X Sleeve some more. It looks a bit bulky.

Just my 2 cents.

Cheers - Jason


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mijason4*


Nice Lutro0









I think you need to stretch the MDPC-X Sleeve some more. It looks a bit bulky.

Just my 2 cents.

Cheers - Jason










The ones that look fat are the dreaded double wired ones







, but I agree stretching is fully important. Thanks man!


----------



## AusPC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


The ones that look fat are the dreaded double wired ones







, but I agree stretching is fully important. Thanks man!


 I cut my Double Wires off near the PSU and Solder them onto a slightly thicker single wire. Seems to be ok for me, No Problems so far









Cheers - Jason


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mijason4*


I cut my Double Wires off near the PSU and Solder them onto a slightly thicker single wire. Seems to be ok for me, No Problems so far









Cheers - Jason










That would absolutely clean up the atx ends. It would be nice if there wasn't any in the first place. =P


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;12120287*
> That would absolutely clean up the atx ends. It would be nice if there wasn't any in the first place. =P


Hey Lutro0 ,

Do all ATX 24pin Connectors come with the 2 Wire - 1 Crimp thingy?

Or is it just my annoying NON-modular EA650!!!

Cheers - Jason.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mijason4*


Hey Lutro0 ,

Do all ATX 24pin Connectors come with the 2 Wire - 1 Crimp thingy?

Or is it just my annoying NON-modular EA650!!!

Cheers - Jason.


From what I have experienced anything that is not a extension is likely to have at least one... =(

In fact the Seasonic x-750 im working on right now... oh man, the 24 pin is a nightmare. Its fully modular, on one side your normal atx 24 pin layout and on the other they grouped them all by voltage and such. LOL


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mijason4;12120241*
> I cut my Double Wires off near the PSU and Solder them onto a slightly thicker single wire. Seems to be ok for me, No Problems so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers - Jason


If you substitute a large enough wire it should work okay. You would need to go several gauges larger though. If you only go a single gauge it wouldn't be able to carry enough current to handle the load. If the PSU uses 18 gauge wires you would need to replace 2 with a single 14 or 12 gauge wire to have the same capacity. If it uses 16 gauge wires you would need to replace 2 with a single 11 gauge wire which is uncommon so you would need to go with 10 gauge.

One of the problems with a lot of lower quality PSU's is the use of wire that is too small of a gauge to handle the amount of current causing the wires to melt and possibly catch fire.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Like the water cooling thread this thread may make me spend some more money I don't have lol. I'll be measuring cables tomorrow


----------



## PulkPull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


-image-

-image-

-image-

-image-

-image-

-image-

Sorry if thatâ€™s too many >.< Worked on my photo taking a tad. 
You will notice the hs up the sleeve a tad, I found that to be the best way (at least that I know of) to handle the double wires, Because if you have ever tried to stuff a 2 sleeved wires into one atx slot, well it doesnâ€™t work out all that great. It isnâ€™t perfect but it works.










Very nice work! Do you have a pic of your sleeved dreaded double wire ATX connector pins? I am waiting on my mdpc sleeve, but once I get it my PSU's ATX has 3 double wire pins. I was planning on doing what you described (sleeving them both into one sleeve and just hoping they fit







) but was wondering what it would turn out looking like.


----------



## skwannabe

Finally getting my tool to continue sleeving my x750, but I'm at work till later today..

For Sata cable what heatshrinks are you guys using?

Any suggestions when sleeving the front panel cables?


----------



## PulkPull

Look what I got! Time to bring my build (linked in my sig below) down for a while to sleeve my psu, fan wires, and case wires. Wish me luck.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skwannabe;12123216*
> Finally getting my tool to continue sleeving my x750, but I'm at work till later today..
> 
> For Sata cable what heatshrinks are you guys using?
> 
> Any suggestions when sleeving the front panel cables?


MDPC-X carries specific SATA sleeve and shrink. That's your best bet for it.

As far as font panel cables it depends on the look you are after. I grouped the power, reset, and led cables together into one single 1/2 sleeve. I liked having them all together like that as sleeving to me is as much about cable management as it is about style and looks. You can also use the regular single wire sleeve to do each cable set together (as in both wires of the power on in one, both reset switch wires in one, etc) if you prefer that look.

USB, Audio, Firewire, etc. should probably be semi individually sleeved using the USB sleeve from MDPC-X.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer;12113142*
> I sleeved my psu, one question. With the 8-pin power connection for the mobo (4-pin) Can I just unplug the other 4 wires I dont need to plug into the mobo? Heres a picture of what Im talking about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, how will i go about checking the power of the cables? To make sure I plugged everything back in right before setting up my computer


Could someone help with my aboove question?


----------



## Aximous

Just use a multimeter ans see if the wires have correct voltages.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

True. the OP picture that has the 24pin layout seems old becase my psu has a few slots without a wire and some connections have 2 wires (think there were 4 like this?)


----------



## AdvanSuper

Question - I just got my Sparkle 1000W PSU and some cables have resistors on them. How would one handle these types of issues when sleeving? Many of the resistors are located where they connect to the components and not where they plug into the PSU.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper;12128979*
> Question - I just got my Sparkle 1000W PSU and some cables have resistors on them. How would one handle these types of issues when sleeving? Many of the resistors are located where they connect to the components and not where they plug into the PSU.


Those are designed to make the noise (electrical resonance noise, aka that squeeling noise some GPU"s have) from GPU's do to resonance lower or nonexistent.

You can leave them in place or take them off. I recommend leaving them as it's harder to re-attach them.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Well I didn't want to remove them at all, but I was wondering if there would be any issues while pulling out the wires to sleeve them?

They are on pretty much every cable, but I was only going to do the 24 pin, 8 pin and pci-e cables. I think it would look ugly though and I shouldn't bother with it.


----------



## lifeskills

My First sleeve job. Little rough around the edges but here she is:






Got another project coming up once I make some money.
Gotta clean it out to take some proper photos, but what do yall think?


----------



## shnur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer;12128526*
> Could someone help with my aboove question?


Use a multimeter to check voltages.
If your motherboard only has a 4pin CPU power, you can take out 4 wires from your 8 pin.
Maybe want to keep them around if you ever upgrade and need them later on.
Since your PSU is modular; if there's no load on the specific cable, it'll just treat it as a disconnected, would that be at the entrance of the PSU or at the end of the cable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer;12128785*
> True. the OP picture that has the 24pin layout seems old becase my psu has a few slots without a wire and some connections have 2 wires (think there were 4 like this?)


Really? Mine did have some double wires, I just put them in a single sleeve anyways, had more issues later because I had to re-crimp one, but that's something I hope you won't have to deal with.

The ATX 24-pin layout is universal, you may be missing some black wires (grounds) but you can't be missing other wires... all the motherboards and other power supplies use the same standard.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeskills;12129520*
> My First sleeve job. Little rough around the edges but here she is:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got another project coming up once I make some money.
> Gotta clean it out to take some proper photos, but what do yall think?


I wish I went for that look; light blue, white and black looks amazing









Was it hard to punch in the power SATA cables, I tried and had so much trouble that I just gave up on it...


----------



## lifeskills

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur;12130979*
> 
> Was it hard to punch in the power SATA cables, I tried and had so much trouble that I just gave up on it...


yeah, I kept slipping, so eventually I took a razorblade and cut a ring around the cable, then another as close as I could to the first. Then you can tear that middle piece out and clip the connection on with no resistance. You gotta be carfull not to strip the cable too much though, so you dont have bare wires sticking out


----------



## shnur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeskills;12131091*
> yeah, I kept slipping, so eventually I took a razorblade and cut a ring around the cable, then another as close as I could to the first. Then you can tear that middle piece out and clip the connection on with no resistance. You gotta be carfull not to strip the cable too much though, so you dont have bare wires sticking out


Will try that next time; for this time, I just gave up and put everything back on standard holes.


----------



## lifeskills

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur;12131419*
> Will try that next time; for this time, I just gave up and put everything back on standard holes.


Yea sleeving is really tedious. Theres a lot on my rig that I would do different now, but not going to go back and do it. Thanks for the rep


----------



## dudenell

Just spent 200$ on a sleeving + tools but I did the math and about 70-75$ of that is for tools and shipping was another 25$. I am only looking to do extensions for the time being (I want to make sure I have enough) but will probably grab more in the future if I decide to do the whole PSU (I spent a good amount on this PSU, not keen on voiding the warranty).

Also I figure if I sleeve a few people's pc's I could probably pay for what I bought pretty quickly.


----------



## PulkPull

Just got done sleeving my external rad's fan wires. It was my 1st sleeving job to get me ready for the PSU and case wires. I have to work all week, but this weekend is wide open for some PSU sleeving.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PulkPull;12122239*
> Very nice work! Do you have a pic of your sleeved dreaded double wire ATX connector pins? I am waiting on my mdpc sleeve, but once I get it my PSU's ATX has 3 double wire pins. I was planning on doing what you described (sleeving them both into one sleeve and just hoping they fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but was wondering what it would turn out looking like.


You know... I forgot to take a picture of that before I sent off the cables, but I had one that did show it. I also included a diagram to show the two ways I have dealt with the double wire.


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;12134231*
> You know... I forgot to take a picture of that before I sent off the cables, but I had one that did show it. I also included a diagram to show the two ways I have dealt with the double wire.
> 
> Kinda looks like a 4yr old with a crayon lol >.<


Nice, Sure Looks noticeable though







, I was going to get a X650 but its a no go now









Awesome Job anyway









Cheers - Jason


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mijason4;12134296*
> Nice, Sure Looks noticeable though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I was going to get a X650 but its a no go now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome Job anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers - Jason


The unfortunate part is most powersupplies have at least one of those double cords, the only way to get around it is to sleeve extentions, You could always do the split further up to have it hidden in the back of the case as well.

The Seasonic X series on the other hand has at least 6 or more of those double wires =X


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;12134333*
> The unfortunate part is most powersupplies have at least one of those double cords, the only way to get around it is to sleeve extentions, You could always do the split further up to have it hidden in the back of the case as well.
> 
> The Seasonic X series on the other hand has at least 6 or more of those double wires =X


----------



## SKl

Looking into getting a corsair ax750 and sleeving it,
take a look at my thread







.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;12134231*
> You know... I forgot to take a picture of that before I sent off the cables, but I had one that did show it. I also included a diagram to show the two ways I have dealt with the double wire.
> 
> Kinda looks like a 4yr old with a crayon lol >.<


Thanks for that Lutro! I think I am going to just remove the extra two pins and leave the PCI-E as 6 pin cables.


----------



## PulkPull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;12134231*
> You know... I forgot to take a picture of that before I sent off the cables, but I had one that did show it. I also included a diagram to show the two ways I have dealt with the double wire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kinda looks like a 4yr old with a crayon lol >.<


Any feedback here would be great-

If I take my atx pins that have two wires crimped to one pin and do like you suggest in the top example in the pic above, I would have to get larger gauged wire for that short section going from the soldered wire connection to the atx plug pin, right? Or will I be fine just using the existing wire but just one instead of two for that short section?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PulkPull;12136341*
> Any feedback here would be great-
> 
> If I take my atx pins that have two wires crimped to one pin and do like you suggest in the top example in the pic above, I would have to get larger gauged wire for that short section going from the soldered wire connection to the atx plug pin, right? Or will I be fine just using the existing wire but just one instead of two for that short section?


I just left the existing double wire and just sleeved up to where I wanted to and then split the sleeves out.


----------



## PulkPull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;12136415*
> I just left the existing double wire and just sleeved up to where I wanted to and then split the sleeves out.


Oh, ok. That makes sence. I will be using mdpc heatshrink, did you have a problem getting the heatshrink and the double wires back into the plug? Was it really noticable in the overall scheme of things?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PulkPull;12136536*
> Oh, ok. That makes sence. I will be using mdpc heatshrink, did you have a problem getting the heatshrink and the double wires back into the plug? Was it really noticable in the overall scheme of things?


I did have to be carefull when putting it into the atx connector, IE making sure the sleeving didnt ripple and had to use some decent slow force, but no its not really noticeable unless you take close up pictures >.<

Of course that being said, it would be nice if it were perfect lol


----------



## lifeskills

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12135582*
> Thanks for that Lutro! I think I am going to just remove the extra two pins and leave the PCI-E as 6 pin cables.


That's what I did on my hx850 pci-e cables. I sleeved the extra wire(s) that I took off so if I get a card that uses 8 pin I can just pop the pins back in and good to go.

Like so:


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PulkPull;12136341*
> Any feedback here would be great-
> 
> If I take my atx pins that have two wires crimped to one pin and do like you suggest in the top example in the pic above, I would have to get larger gauged wire for that short section going from the soldered wire connection to the atx plug pin, right? Or will I be fine just using the existing wire but just one instead of two for that short section?


Yes you would need to go with a larger gauge wire otherwise you run the risk of the wire overheating and catching the insulation and sleeve on fire. See this post in this thread for more details.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeskills;12138649*
> That's what I did on my hx850 pci-e cables. I sleeved the extra wire(s) that I took off so if I get a card that uses 8 pin I can just pop the pins back in and good to go.


I'm not sure if I get that. I mean do you have an empty hole in you 6 pin PCI-E cable currently?


----------



## lifeskills

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12139798*
> I'm not sure if I get that. I mean do you have an empty hole in you 6 pin PCI-E cable currently?


Na, the empty hole is on the 8 pin connector on the PSU side of the cable. Thats where the bare pin in the pic came from. Then the side with the plastic just clips onto the 6pin if I should ever need it. I just didn't want those 2 extra wires hanging off.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lifeskills*


Na, the empty hole is on the 8 pin connector on the PSU side of the cable. Thats where the bare pin in the pic came from. Then the side with the plastic just clips onto the 6pin if I should ever need it. I just didn't want those 2 extra wires hanging off.


Yeah... that makes sense thanks! Wait does that mean you had to crimp two other cables together on the psu side of the cables in order to free up a hole?


----------



## lifeskills

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


Yeah... that makes sense thanks! Wait does that mean you had to crimp two other cables together on the psu side of the cables in order to free up a hole?


Na, those two wires already came off the same pin. So now there's two vacant holes on the psu-connector. I'm at work till later tonight but when I get home I will post a photo of an original cable next to my sleeved one so you can see the difference


----------



## Drakenxile

just thinking is a 2:1 ratio for color too much? i was planning to go 2 black one red but i ain't sure anymore


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Drakenxile*


just thinking is a 2:1 ratio for color too much? i was planning to go 2 black one red but i ain't sure anymore


I was coming on this thread to pretty much ask the same thing. I have black red and white but I don't know what to do.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


I was coming on this thread to pretty much ask the same thing. I have black red and white but I don't know what to do.










Same boat









Guess I'll have to do some "visualizing"


----------



## PapaSmurf

I think it has to do with how dark and light (bright) the colors are. White is fairly bright and can easily overpower the other darker colors if one isn't careful. Black and red could work well with a 1:1 or 2:1 ratio of each other. 1:1 of Black or Red to White would probably look very unbalanced. Even 2:1 Black or Red to White might not work very well. To me white would make a better accent as in 3 or 4 to 1 dark color to white. That's just my opinion though. Others might see it differently.


----------



## lifeskills

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12139798*
> I'm not sure if I get that. I mean do you have an empty hole in you 6 pin PCI-E cable currently?


Heres the original cable, see how those two are coming out of the top hole, they are already on the same pin. Those two are the ones that are separated on the other side

Here is the sleeved connection that plugs into the psu

And here is the one I posted before.


Hope that helps. Im not sure if all pci-e connectins are wired the same way


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeskills;12147294*
> Heres the original cable, see how those two are coming out of the top hole, they are already on the same pin. Those two are the ones that are separated on the other side
> 
> Here is the sleeved connection that plugs into the psu
> 
> And here is the one I posted before.
> 
> Hope that helps. Im not sure if all pci-e connectins are wired the same way


Thanks for that! Yeah I was confused because I was comparing it to my X650 and it is nothing like it. I am finally realizing how much of a pain it is to sleeve the X-650.


----------



## shnur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeskills;12147294*
> Heres the original cable, see how those two are coming out of the top hole, they are already on the same pin. Those two are the ones that are separated on the other side
> 
> Here is the sleeved connection that plugs into the psu
> 
> And here is the one I posted before.
> 
> 
> Hope that helps. Im not sure if all pci-e connectins are wired the same way


Mine is actually wired a bit differently.
The cables are taken from another ground in the 6-pin connector.
My PSU is not modular though.


----------



## lifeskills

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


Thanks for that! Yeah I was confused because I was comparing it to my X650 and it is nothing like it. I am finally realizing how much of a pain it is to sleeve the X-650.


How are those wired? I was looking at a seasonic modular for my other rig, but if its a pain I might just go corsair again.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

What's so hard about the X650 cables rag?

I have the same ones but for the AX850.


----------



## shnur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;12156871*
> What's so hard about the X650 cables rag?
> 
> I have the same ones but for the AX850.


Keep us updated! I'm thinking about buying an AX750 for sleeving purposes, if it's hard, I'll try another Gold PSU...


----------



## lifeskills

AX series looks awesome for sleeving. they just need a ax1000, that would be perfect


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeskills;12157482*
> AX series looks awesome for sleeving. they just need a ax1000, that would be perfect


What would be the point in sleeving one of those guys? All the cables are uniform and all black already.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;12156871*
> What's so hard about the X650 cables rag?
> 
> I have the same ones but for the AX850.


The hardest part is the small red wire on the 24pin. Also the x-650 seems to have a lot of double wires crimped together on a single pin.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12157949*
> The hardest part is the small red wire on the 24pin. Also the x-650 seems to have a lot of double wires crimped together on a single pin.


Shoot, I'm fairly certain the X series and AX series use the same cables









I'll check tomorrow though and find out for sure.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12157949*
> The hardest part is the small red wire on the 24pin. Also the x-650 seems to have a lot of double wires crimped together on a single pin.


so how did you do the small thin red wire?


----------



## lifeskills

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot;12157490*
> What would be the point in sleeving one of those guys? All the cables are uniform and all black already.


true, they do look good, but if your goin for something else,or a certain look, having to work on only extensions makes is a lot easier for individual sleeving. plus I bet a lot of companies wouldn't take a sleeved psu back, so in case of rma just keep the extensions.


----------



## SKl

Hi guys
im going to be buying an ax850 next month and sleeving it in mdpcX green and white.
do you recommend making extentions? or sleeving all the wires? also how much do you think i well need? (thanks +rep given to reply's







)


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SKl;12161126*
> Hi guys
> im going to be buying an ax850 next month and sleeving it in mdpcX green and white.
> do you recommend making extentions? or sleeving all the wires? also how much do you think i well need? (thanks +rep given to reply's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


For less hassle, buying extentions and sleeving those is the easiest. And IMO the best way to go if you have never sleeved before. (and if you mess up an easy fix) You can buy extentions with black connectors on ebay for prety cheap. And you can follow the same math as for the full psu.

But for the full deal (sleeving all wires), you need to look up the psu on the manu's website, or a review of the psu that tells you how long all the cables are and times it by the number of wires you have to sleeve (for individual sleeving) ie an 8pin is lenth X 8.

Once you have it all added up add about 25 or more feet extra for extras you may have forgotten or mistakes.

Mdpc has precut heatshrink, I highly recommend getting those, as well as getting an EXTRA order of 50 peices MORE than you will use for mistakes of both colors, it costs a little more but you will be glad you did.

If you purchase mdpc, nils will send you a how to sleeve guide via email. That is an important read.

I would also suggest you give this thread a full read, and read the guides and get a good understanding of how to sleeve and what it should look like. You will save yourself tons of hassle and frustration when you get your supplies and it will help you not waste them and produce something that you will be proud of.

Hope that helps bud.


----------



## SKl

Thanks for all the info







.
Ok i think i will do some calculations, ill practise on some fans first aswell.
thanks for the heatshrink tip i didnt really think about it.
Also do you think my colours are ok?
my motherboard is black/green and cm sniper has all the mesh sprayed white and black inside. I was going to go for green for all the fans, sata and cables going to mobo and then white for all the psu wires, do you think thats ok?
Cheers


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKl*


Hi guys 
im going to be buying an ax850 next month and sleeving it in mdpcX green and white.
do you recommend making extentions? or sleeving all the wires? also how much do you think i well need? (thanks +rep given to reply's







)


if you can hide the non sleeved parts then you can get extensions if you want.
its all up to you. if you open the back panel will you yourself be noticing that parts of the wire will not be sleeved and the other half is sleeved.
if you dont care do it

if you have some type of ocd dwith aesthetics thennnn sleeve it all

ax850 = seasonic ones = 2 feet for the gpu/cpu cables * however many cables
24 pin cable is actually a 26 pin from the psu


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKl*


Thanks for all the info







.
Ok i think i will do some calculations, ill practise on some fans first aswell.
thanks for the heatshrink tip i didnt really think about it.
Also do you think my colours are ok?
my motherboard is black/green and cm sniper has all the mesh sprayed white and black inside. I was going to go for green for all the fans, sata and cables going to mobo and then white for all the psu wires, do you think thats ok?
Cheers


The colors are purely a matter of opinion. But yes they sound awesome. Look around the thread at some of the color combos that people have done with mixing colors for the psu. It will inspire you =D

Also something to think about, even with mdpc the color of the cable can highlight the white sleeve. Some people have listed different ways of dealing with this rangeing from spray paint to white electrical tape.

Remember to add your fans cables and sata sleeve/ sata heatshrink & what not to your sleeving order as well.


----------



## SKl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;12161262*
> The colors are purely a matter of opinion. But yes they sound awesome. Look around the thread at some of the color combos that people have done with mixing colors for the psu. It will inspire you =D
> Remember to add your fans cables and sata sleeve & what not to your sleeving order as well.


Ok thanks







,
Yeah i have been looking through them and some of the mixed do look pretty sweet, ill have to reconsider my mixing now lol.
Yeah will do looking to calculate it up soon and place an order with mdpc X







.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Also something to think about, even with mdpc the color of the cable can highlight the white sleeve. Some people have listed different ways of dealing with this rangeing from spray paint to white electrical tape.


I added that please consider that as well it really depends on how OCD you are. =P


----------



## SKl

Ok thanks agian, hmm intersting piont,
im not to ocd but i want it to look sweet







.

Edit- Ive calculated for the wires going to the mobo and also my fans and a few other bits i will need about 24m of green small sleeving.


----------



## lifeskills

Hey ski, was not sure if you goin with extensions or not, but with the ax series you don't really need to since it is full modular. The cables it comes with are already extensions


----------



## SKl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeskills;12164735*
> Hey ski, was not sure if you goin with extensions or not, but with the ax series you don't really need to since it is full modular. The cables it comes with are already extensions


Hi yeah i know one of the reasons why im going for it,
if i have to RMA do you think corsair would let me keep the cables?


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKl*


Hi yeah i know one of the reasons why im going for it,
if i have to RMA do you think corsair would let me keep the cables?


Without charging you for it? Most likely not.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

If I ever need to RMA my Silverstone, I'll probably just buy a second set of cables for it and send it back with them







My cables will all be cut and soldered to the right length so there's no way I'd be able to send them back with it.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12166058*
> If I ever need to RMA my Silverstone, I'll probably just buy a second set of cables for it and send it back with them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cables will all be cut and soldered to the right length so there's no way I'd be able to send them back with it.


You don't need the cables to RMA the unit


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SKl;12165259*
> Hi yeah i know one of the reasons why im going for it,
> if i have to RMA do you think corsair would let me keep the cables?


Keep in mind that even though the cables are fully modular, that doesnt mean that they dont have some double wires and such. Just a thought.


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;12166519*
> Keep in mind that even though the cables are fully modular, that doesnt mean that they dont have some double wires and such. Just a thought.


I don't like those Double wires when sleeving







, I realized the pain when my friend asked me to sleeve his Silverstone 750W


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot;12166278*
> You don't need the cables to RMA the unit


Well in that case....


----------



## lifeskills

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot;12166278*
> You don't need the cables to RMA the unit


plus if you have it replaced you will most likely get a set of backup cables


----------



## godofdeath

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve/sleeve-sata-b-magic.htm

new blu from nils


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

That blue looks awesome IMO.


----------



## stolikat

Hey guys. So I am new to sleeving cables and there is a lot of postings on the forum regarding the topic. The problem I am having is wading through it all. I just purchased some 1/8" sleeve and some 1/8" inch shrink. I am lucky that I did not order more sleeve and shrink right out of the gate as I would have been wasting my money.

The shrink will not fit over the sleeve with the 3 case fan wires in it. So it appears I needed to order 1/4" shrink not 1/8". Ugh!!

My questions;

What size shrink and sleeve do you need to do case fans?
What sizes do you need to do a PSU?

On one post someone says one thing to be countered by another. I want to order some clean cut and shrink from Furryletters tonight!

So help me out guys!!


----------



## maximus20895

1/8th for both. I would get some different heatshrink with at least 3:1 ratio.


----------



## PapaSmurf

If you are going to order from Furry Letters just send him an e-mail with the sleeve you want to order and tell him you want the 3 to 1 heatshrink for that sleeve. He'll know exactly which on to send for it.


----------



## stolikat

Thanks guys! Thats what I needed to know!!


----------



## SKl

Thanks for the help guys,
it seems i will be ok if i need to rma then.
Thinking of doing it in mdpcx sleeve but ill need around 23m of green and about 40m of white. I am maybe thinking it would be alot cheaper to go for furryletters black 40m and then get the 23m of green for mdpcx does that sound ok?
I might just go all mdpcx im undecided.


----------



## dudenell

Speaking of mdpc how long does it usually take to arrive on the east coast?


----------



## shnur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dudenell;12176642*
> Speaking of mdpc how long does it usually take to arrive on the east coast?


Mine usually gets here in a week or so, this time I think it was a bit longer; week and a half.


----------



## Ragsters

Can somebody help me with this wanted thread?
http://www.overclock.net/wanted/909585-mdpc-x-sleeving-heatshrink.html


----------



## lifeskills

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godofdeath;12168317*
> http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve/sleeve-sata-b-magic.htm
> 
> new blu from nils


that blue is awesome. I got the aquamarine for my build, but this stuff would have been perfect with my motherboard. Not that im dissapointed with the blue I got, though


----------



## smartasien

While trying to remove one of the connectors on the 24 pin Male side, I accidentally applied too much power and straight up ripped the wire from the metal connector...

Now the metal connector is stuck in the plastic housing and I have no way of removing it since I don't have a wire to pull it out. Any ideas how to remove it?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Needle nose pliers or cut it out and get a new 24 pin housing.


----------



## smartasien

that worked perfectly. just jammed one side of the needlenose plier into the plastic housing and it came out. Thanks for the help.


----------



## SKl

Ive calculated i need about 80m of mdpcx for an ax850 and my system, does that sound about right? im also considering using paracord because of the price difference.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SKl;12185672*
> Ive calculated i need about 80m of mdpcx for an ax850 and my system, does that sound about right? im also considering using paracord because of the price difference.


That seems like a lot to me. Are you planning on sleeving all your cables or just the ones that you will use?


----------



## SKl

Well im not sure at the moment, i calculated it sleeving every cable although i think it comes with 12 sata power cables theres no way i need 12. how much do you think i would need? thanks


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smartasien;12184425*
> that worked perfectly. just jammed one side of the needlenose plier into the plastic housing and it came out. Thanks for the help.


I had to do the same when I tore one of the wires from the 24pin. I used staples, heated up the connector and used the little ball from a seam ripper to push it out from the top.

If you look at the little red ball from the ripper on this link you can see what I am talking about.
http://www.amazon.com/Dritz-3-1-Inch...6079859&sr=1-5

This worked perfectly and the cushion of the little ball prevented any damage to the pin.


----------



## oliverw92

Ski that is WAY too much. You could get away with 50m.


----------



## SKl

ok thanks oli i might just go with mdpcx then.


----------



## dudenell

Just got my package today.only took 5 days


----------



## Jude188

Just finished sleeving my 24 pin, 4+4 pin and one 6+2 pin pci-e! Thought I'd see what you all thought!


----------



## godofdeath

hard time deciding people

red or color-x for ROG board

i might get 1 meter of red and 1 meter of color-x in the end


----------



## shnur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godofdeath;12196916*
> hard time deciding people
> 
> red or color-x for ROG board
> 
> i might get 1 meter of red and 1 meter of color-x in the end


You can also get other sleeving you want (if you want to mix it with white or black for example) and ask Nils to add you a sample of red/color-x.


----------



## PulkPull

1 day of sleeving in the books. Got my ATX, sata, and 3 pci-e done. I will post some more pics once I get done with the whole PSU.


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PulkPull*


1 day of sleeving in the books. Got my ATX, sata, and 3 pci-e done. I will post some more pics once I get done with the whole PSU.




















looks great!!

cant wait to see th rest


----------



## M0E

I want to sleeve my cables and already bought the stuff...then I realized that all of my cables on my PSU have in-line caps


----------



## SKl

Hi guys just about to do an order with mdpcX and was wondering what colour heatshrink to go with? im using green and white sleeving, do you think red heatshrink would look ok? or should i just go with black? Thanks


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SKl;12207833*
> Hi guys just about to do an order with mdpcX and was wondering what colour heatshrink to go with? im using green and white sleeving, do you think red heatshrink would look ok? or should i just go with black? Thanks


I'd go with green and white shrink or black, personally.


----------



## PulkPull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


looks great!!

cant wait to see th rest


Thanks you!









Below are pics of the PSU I just finished up. Now, I have to put it in the case and start sleeving my fan and case wires.


----------



## Copenhagen69

AWESOME!

Kinda looks like Medusa







haha


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


I'd go with green and white shrink or black, personally.


^This


----------



## Ragsters

Sorry for the double post but I really need to ask this. Does anyone have any extra MDPC heatshrink they can spare? I am looking for red, white and black. I am willing to trade some of my white sleeving for some shrink or just pay for the shrink. Thanks!


----------



## M0E

I ordered multiple packages of the 50 Pc cut heatshrink from MDPC. If I have any left over Ill PM you when it arrives.


----------



## dudenell

Finished my 24 pin extension


----------



## jntarheels

I just bought the Corsair 850HX power supply and already purchased sleeving.

i am going to custom sleeve my cables, but do you guys suggest i install the power supply in my system for a few months to make sure it is working and doesn't have any problems before sleeving?

i just don't want to void the warranty and then it end up breaking and me being screwed.

Thoughts Please!


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dudenell*


Finished my 24 pin extension


















looking great


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jntarheels;12224323*
> I just bought the Corsair 850HX power supply and already purchased sleeving.
> 
> i am going to custom sleeve my cables, but do you guys suggest i install the power supply in my system for a few months to make sure it is working and doesn't have any problems before sleeving?
> 
> i just don't want to void the warranty and then it end up breaking and me being screwed.
> 
> Thoughts Please!


30 days should be fine. If there is a manufacturing defect it will normally show up by then. If it makes it that long it will normally run for years (unless you abuse it). But according to what has been posted in this and other threads as long as you don't sleeve the hard wired cables you should be fine. Sleeve the modular cables and use extensions that you can sleeve for the hard wired ones.


----------



## RAFFY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *papasmurf;12228231*
> 30 days should be fine. If there is a manufacturing defect it will normally show up by then. If it makes it that long it will normally run for years (unless you abuse it). But according to what has been posted in this and other threads as long as you don't open up the psu itself, cut off any of the wires, or remove any of the capacitors on the wires (if it even has any) corsair won't void the warranty. There may be a couple of other conditions, but you should be fine.


+1


----------



## PulkPull

Got done sleeving and installing my PSU. I need to find some time to get better pics of the complete sleeving job (i.e. sleeving/routing behind the motherboard and such), but I wanted to hook everything up to make sure I did not mess anything up while sleeving my psu, case, and wire cables. This weekend I will get the build down again and route things a bit better and take some more pics. For now these are the pics I got with my case on the desk with limited picture angles and scope -


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12228231*
> 30 days should be fine. If there is a manufacturing defect it will normally show up by then. If it makes it that long it will normally run for years (unless you abuse it). But according to what has been posted in this and other threads as long as you don't open up the PSU itself, cut off any of the wires, or remove any of the capacitors on the wires (if it even has any) Corsair won't void the warranty. There may be a couple of other conditions, but you should be fine.


corsair says sleeving the cables that are attached is voiding the warranty
basically sleeving the 24 pin and such


----------



## PapaSmurf

Interesting. That's different than what has been posted in this thread numerous times. I'll have to see if I can find the exact posts.


----------



## dudenell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12229023*
> Interesting. That's different than what has been posted in this thread numerous times. I'll have to see if I can find the exact posts.


That's different from what has been posted on the first page. I went to the corsair forum itself and they specifically say that sleeving your PSU will void your warranty hence the reason I'm only doing extensions at this point.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Yeah, I found the posts about it. Sleeveing the modular cables is okay, but not the hardwired ones. For those you should probably use extensions that you can sleeve. I'll have to go back and amend my previous reply.


----------



## smartasien

i'm having issues removing the female side of my 24 pin extension.

Does anyone have a good method way of removing it? preferably with staples or paperclips? I can't seem to find the slots to push in the pins.


----------



## jntarheels

Thanks for the feedback guys!


----------



## Ragsters

Do you guys know any better combo for sleeving than the Silverstone PP04? The connectors need to be black.
http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-PP04-24-Pin-Universal-Extend/dp/B000SE4MGG]Amazon.com: SilverStone PP04 24-Pin to 20+4-Pin Universal Extend Cable: Electronics[/URL]


----------



## RushMore1205

has anyone ordered from Venomus Sleeving, it the Artisan guy on here?
im thinking of giving a fellow OCN member bussness instead of MNPC or what ever its called. but i want to make sure hes good?


----------



## PapaSmurf

He only has a couple of colors so far. I've only seen one person posting that they have got their sleeve yet so it's a bit too early to tell how it's going to be.


----------



## RushMore1205

does you MDPC expand pretty well?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Yes it does. In fact, it expands better than any other sleeve I know of.


----------



## dudenell

If anyone is ordering mdpc sleeving anytime soon let me know... I ran out of heatshrink and im willing to pay a premium to get some


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


Do you guys know any better combo for sleeving than the Silverstone PP04? The connectors need to be black.
Amazon.com: SilverStone PP04 24-Pin to 20+4-Pin Universal Extend Cable: Electronics


Seems decent, but i'd go with NZXT ones. You could cut the crappy stock sleeving off and all the wires and connectors are black (provided you get the black ones).

Added Ogre sleeve accents to my 6 pin PCI-E extensions (UV looks better in person, the light overpowers my old ass camera). I think I got the heat shrink to line up well:









































Sata cables were done a little while back.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Yes it does. In fact, it expands better than any other sleeve I know of.


When sleeving should I expand/stretch it as much as possible then shrink it? I have been doing that but the end result seems kinda weird. What I mean is that the wires now feel like bendaroos. You know you bend the wires and they stay that way.







I'm thinking there should be some slack one the sleeving, am I wrong?


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


When sleeving should I expand/stretch it as much as possible then shrink it? I have been doing that but the end result seems kinda weird. What I mean is that the wires now feel like bendaroos. You know you bend the wires and they stay that way.







I'm thinking there should be some slack one the sleeving, am I wrong?


Correct in that you are wrong









You want to stretch the sleeve as much as possible. This closes the weave and prevents the color from showing through any more than it should, and also makes the diameter smaller to improve aesthetics and airflow.

(stretch = pull apart, not together just to clarify)

The bendaroo property is good - you want to "train" the wires with zip ties to get them to stay in a good position that looks good, then snip off the ties after some time. Not sure how long, but a day would probably be fine.


----------



## RushMore1205

is 60 meters of sleve enough for PSU?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Depends on the PSU. You need to measure each of the cable bundles of your specific PSU, multiply that times the number of wires in each bundle, add all of that together, than add 15-25% extra to make sure you have enough. For the heatshrink you need 1.5" (5/8" to 3/4" at each end tends to be about right for most people) of shrink for each wire (or each break in a wire such as multiple molex and sata connectors) and add at least 30 to 50% extra so you have enough. You'll waste more heatshrink than you will sleeve.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Hey RushMore, Jason is sending me some samples of the Venomous sleeving to compare with furryletter's and MDPC's sleeve. I'm not too sure when it will arrive but part of the deal is that I do a bit of a review of the sleeve and post some comparison pictures of the three different brands. Shouldn't be too far off now as I believe he sent the sleeve a week ago.


----------



## RushMore1205

Awsome man. Your going to be a life savior, I'm so torn on which one to buy, I'll be patiently waiting

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12287168*
> Hey RushMore, Jason is sending me some samples of the Venomous sleeving to compare with furryletter's and MDPC's sleeve. I'm not too sure when it will arrive but part of the deal is that I do a bit of a review of the sleeve and post some comparison pictures of the three different brands. Shouldn't be too far off now as I believe he sent the sleeve a week ago.


----------



## RushMore1205

But in most cases is 60 meters enough, I'm in a different state so measuring my psu is not an option right now, so I'm just getting your opinion


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12287260*
> Awsome man. Your going to be a life savior, I'm so torn on which one to buy, I'll be patiently waiting


I'll let you know as soon as it arrives


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12287283*
> But in most cases is 60 meters enough, I'm in a different state so measuring my psu is not an option right now, so I'm just getting your opinion


Look up the PSU on the manufacturer's support site to get the length of the cables.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12287168*
> Hey RushMore, Jason is sending me some samples of the Venomous sleeving to compare with furryletter's and MDPC's sleeve. I'm not too sure when it will arrive but part of the deal is that I do a bit of a review of the sleeve and post some comparison pictures of the three different brands. Shouldn't be too far off now as I believe he sent the sleeve a week ago.


I as well have some samples coming, I will be doing up a 24 pin and some 6 pin extentions and taking pictures, as well as posting the pics Spidermonkey will be doing. So there will be a few different people reviewing his sleeving.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MijnWraak;12283697*
> Correct in that you are wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You want to stretch the sleeve as much as possible. This closes the weave and prevents the color from showing through any more than it should, and also makes the diameter smaller to improve aesthetics and airflow.
> 
> (stretch = pull apart, not together just to clarify)
> 
> The bendaroo property is good - you want to "train" the wires with zip ties to get them to stay in a good position that looks good, then snip off the ties after some time. Not sure how long, but a day would probably be fine.


Thanks so much for that. You make me fell better about the work I have doen so far.


----------



## Ragsters

Do you guys know of any good pictures of a daisy-chained 4 pin molex (peripheral) sleeving job? I am trying to see how to shrink the double wires. Preferably a professional MDPC style job.


----------



## SmasherBasher

Are you talking about where 2 wires go into 1 connector? If so, I just cut the wires, run the sleeving over it and recrimp
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12321819*
> Do you guys know of any good pictures of a daisy-chained 4 pin molex (peripheral) sleeving job? I am trying to see how to shrink the double wires. Preferably a professional MDPC style job.


Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


----------



## M0E

Will be starting this weekend


----------



## inspector

What color sleeveing do you guys think is best looking together?

I know i want a the mdpc green but idk what other color to get to match with it. Either the aquamarine blue, red or black. suggestions? Also where can i get good unsleeved extensions?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inspector;12328531*
> What color sleeveing do you guys think is best looking together?
> 
> I know i want a the mdpc green but idk what other color to get to match with it. Either the aquamarine blue, red or black. suggestions? Also where can i get good unsleeved extensions?


Depends on what colors and look you happen to like. I couldn't imaging red or aquamarine blue looking good with the green personally. Black or white would be my two choices with green.

It depends on what country you are from as to where to get the extensions. They put that field in your profile for a reason. You should use it instead of making us guess.

In the USA I tend to get things like that from SVC. They will ship to Canada I believe, but I have no idea about the rest of the world.


----------



## inspector

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12328581*
> Depends on what colors and look you happen to like. I couldn't imaging red or aquamarine blue looking good with the green personally. Black or white would be my two choices with green.
> 
> It depends on what country you are from as to where to get the extensions. They put that field in your profile for a reason. You should use it instead of making us guess.
> 
> In the USA I tend to get things like that from SVC. They will ship to Canada I believe, but I have no idea about the rest of the world.


Hum, i'll see then, might just go with green and white.

Also my country field is filled out as USA... so ya







. I haven't filled out locations yet though because i just registered and haven't went to edit it.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inspector;12328718*
> Hum, i'll see then, might just go with green and white.
> 
> Also my country field is filled out as USA... so ya
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I haven't filled out locations yet though because i just registered and haven't went to edit it.


Before you do anything else you should click on the *User CP* at the top of this page, scroll down the left side to *Edit Details*, go down to Location - Where you live and fill out your country and your state (city isn't that big of a deal) and save changes, then scroll down to the *Add System* link and enter in your system specs in as much detail as possible. By that I mean 2 x 2gig G.Skil PC2-8500 CL5 ram instead of 4 gig ram, etc. That way we have some idea of what we are dealing with.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;12326114*
> Are you talking about where 2 wires go into 1 connector? If so, I just cut the wires, run the sleeving over it and recrimp
> 
> Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


Yup that's what I was taking about and yeah that's what I was afraid of. Thanks!


----------



## inspector

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12328859*
> Before you do anything else you should click on the *User CP* at the top of this page, scroll down the left side to *Edit Details*, go down to Location - Where you live and fill out your country and your state (city isn't that big of a deal) and save changes, then scroll down to the *Add System* link and enter in your system specs in as much detail as possible. By that I mean 2 x 2gig G.Skil PC2-8500 CL5 ram instead of 4 gig ram, etc. That way we have some idea of what we are dealing with.


Done, also know of any extensions that come in black connectors? Most i googled were clear. (would be best if that one place had all extensions for the whole psu as i don't want to sleeve the whole thing.)


----------



## koven

modright extensions


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inspector;12329600*
> Done, also know of any extensions that come in black connectors? Most i googled were clear. (would be best if that one place had all extensions for the whole psu as i don't want to sleeve the whole thing.)


I linked you to SVC in my first reply to you. They have a LOT of different extensions, some sleeved some not sleeved.


----------



## inspector

Koven, modright only has sleeved extension on their site.

PapaSmurf, wanna link me to the extensions section? i couldn't find it and did a site search and non of them had black connectors that came up.

Edit: Found the whole section, but they don't have black connector 24pin extensions


----------



## PapaSmurf

You didn't look very hard. Cables and Adapters - Power Supply and Fan Cables/Adapters - ATX Motherboard.

http://www.svc.com/mod-24pext-bk.html


----------



## inspector

Sorry, but didn't read real hard either -.-







. I said they don't have unsleeved ones because they cost less and I wanted two color sleevings. But thanks for helping anyways.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inspector;12332280*
> Sorry, but didn't read real hard either -.-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I said they don't have unsleeved ones because they cost less and I wanted two color sleevings. But thanks for helping anyways.


no one does two colors unless you go to martin for them


----------



## inspector

Sorry for the misunderstanding, I wanted unsleeved extensions, I will be sleeving it with 2 color


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inspector;12335238*
> Sorry for the misunderstanding, I wanted unsleeved extensions, I will be sleeving it with 2 color


Try this for 24pin and 8pin(cpu).
http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-PP04-24-Pin-Universal-Extend/dp/B000SE4MGG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1297364526&sr=8-1]Amazon.com: SilverStone PP04 24-Pin to 20+4-Pin Universal Extend Cable: Electronics[/URL]


----------



## Dualbrain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inspector;12328531*
> What color sleeveing do you guys think is best looking together?
> 
> I know i want a the mdpc green but idk what other color to get to match with it. Either the aquamarine blue, red or black. suggestions? Also where can i get good unsleeved extensions?


Green+Aquamarine+noncolors
Green+BMagic+noncolors
Green+GrandBleu+noncolors
Green+Yellow+noncolors

... are absolutely beautiful combinations with fantastic color-harmony and I would use one of these combinations if I would build a theme which is very "fresh" looking, if green must be a part of it.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Crap! my sunbeamtech pin extractor snapped







Gotta use staples again.. I have about 10 wires left.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer;12341260*
> Crap! my sunbeamtech pin extractor snapped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gotta use staples again.. I have about 10 wires left.


i got lazy and outsourced the pin removal job


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godofdeath;12342791*
> i got lazy and outsourced the pin removal job


Nice







, Depinning is the most tiresome part of sleeving


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Luckily these last few I already tried with the tool, so hopefully itll make it easier.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mijason4;12343960*
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , Depinning is the most tiresome part of sleeving


yea i gave up after i tried both a tool and the staples on a few pins, decided to send them to martin instead, he does it so quickly lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer;12348602*
> Luckily these last few I already tried with the tool, so hopefully itll make it easier.


yea the thing is sometimes it is just so much of a pain, i have had both tool and staples in there and even left them overnight in there and still no luck. fingers hurted afterwards. gave it a few days and still nothing. so outsourced it lol.

i think i even got cuts and chipped my nail on one of them whilst pulling


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godofdeath;12353789*
> yea i gave up after i tried both a tool and the staples on a few pins, decided to send them to martin instead, he does it so quickly lol
> 
> yea the thing is sometimes it is just so much of a pain, i have had both tool and staples in there and even left them overnight in there and still no luck. fingers hurted afterwards. gave it a few days and still nothing. so outsourced it lol.
> 
> i think i even got cuts and chipped my nail on one of them whilst pulling


Are the X-Series that hard to depin?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mijason4;12355457*
> Are the X-Series that hard to depin?


Yes they are.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mijason4;12355457*
> Are the X-Series that hard to depin?


While I got a few cuts on my hand from it, I'd say its equally hard to depin a Corsair *shrug*


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mijason4;12355457*
> Are the X-Series that hard to depin?


o yea such an annoying thing to depin
worse thing is they use abnormal headers for the pieces that go into the psu so you need to keep those or else i would buy replacements
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12358645*
> Yes they are.


gimme a helllllllllz yar
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MijnWraak;12360248*
> While I got a few cuts on my hand from it, I'd say its equally hard to depin a Corsair *shrug*


if by corsair you mean like the ax series those are the seasonic ones
cable design is definitely the seasonic way


----------



## OolerTheInventor

Was wondering if I should pull the trigger on this.... I'll be doing blue/white/black theme in the computer

case and mobo/gpu pcbs are black, mobo connectors are blue/white

case Corsair 600T :









Mobo: ASRock 890GX :








I don't feel like voiding my warranty on my psu so I figured just grab some extensions cables and void those warranties..... it's all going into a Corsair 600T so I'll have the room for it.

I did the math for the extension cables and it comes to 22 feet of cables there... so I figured 25 ft of each color should leave me enough to sleeve the other wires that can be seen..... front panel/USB/corsair h50 power cord

let me know what you guys think

pic of shopping cart as attached thumbnail


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OolerTheInventor;12365914*
> Was wondering if I should pull the trigger on this.... I'll be doing blue/white/black theme in the computer
> 
> case and mobo/gpu pcbs are black, mobo connectors are blue/white
> 
> case Corsair 600T :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mobo: ASRock 890GX :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't feel like voiding my warranty on my psu so I figured just grab some extensions cables and void those warranties..... it's all going into a Corsair 600T so I'll have the room for it.
> 
> I did the math for the extension cables and it comes to 22 feet of cables there... so I figured 25 ft of each color should leave me enough to sleeve the other wires that can be seen..... front panel/USB/corsair h50 power cord
> 
> let me know what you guys think
> 
> pic of shopping cart as attached thumbnail


22 feet of cable? yet you buy 25 feet of cable for each color???


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OolerTheInventor;12365914*
> 
> I did the math for the extension cables and it comes to 22 feet of cables there... so I figured 25 ft of each color should leave me enough *to sleeve the other wires that can be seen..... front panel/USB/corsair h50 power cord
> *
> let me know what you guys think
> 
> pic of shopping cart as attached thumbnail


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godofdeath;12366466*
> 22 feet of cable? yet you buy 25 feet of cable for each color???


When you read the section in Red you'll understand his reasoning.


----------



## MisterAutomatic

Got a quick question here fellas. I'm trying to order as much stuff as I can from Performanc-PCS and I came across this heatshrink:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=44_916_33&products_id=54

Has anyone ever ordered this? Is it pre-cut pieces, and how many come with it?


----------



## PapaSmurf

IINM it comes in 1 foot increments. If you order 4 it would be a piece 4 foot long or four 1ft pieces.


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OolerTheInventor;12365914*
> Was wondering if I should pull the trigger on this.... I'll be doing blue/white/black theme in the computer
> 
> case and mobo/gpu pcbs are black, mobo connectors are blue/white
> 
> case Corsair 600T :
> I don't feel like voiding my warranty on my psu so I figured just grab some extensions cables and void those warranties..... it's all going into a Corsair 600T so I'll have the room for it.
> 
> I did the math for the extension cables and it comes to 22 feet of cables there... so I figured 25 ft of each color should leave me enough to sleeve the other wires that can be seen..... front panel/USB/corsair h50 power cord
> 
> let me know what you guys think
> 
> pic of shopping cart as attached thumbnail


Cool! Same color scheme I'm going with on my build. Are you sure you want to go with the PET sleeves? They're pretty see-thru, especially the white color.

Check them out here against the other types available:
Sleeve Comparison


----------



## PapaSmurf

Frak, I didn't see that. I agree, I doubt that you really want to use that crap.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


if by corsair you mean like the ax series those are the seasonic ones
cable design is definitely the seasonic way


650tx


----------



## Blindsay

I just ordered some extensions from http://psychosleeve.com/

Got the 24 pin, 8 pin, 2 6pin and 2 6+2 pin. Red/black since those are my favorite colors.

originally was gonna sleeve every single cable but the cost was a bit much for me. these cables are really the only ones visible in my case anyways.

cant wait to get them


----------



## Ragsters

I kinda messed up. Does anyone have a diagram of the pins for the PSU side of the seasonic X-650? I forgot where some of the pins go.


----------



## SmasherBasher

So like a pinout?

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


----------



## runeazn

ey guys which is betta paracord or furryletters sleeving?
and how much sleeving needed for my Coolermaster UCP 1100W PSU?
90 meters enough?


----------



## Drakenxile

Quote:



Originally Posted by *runeazn*


ey guys which is betta paracord or furryletters sleeving?
and how much sleeving needed for my Coolermaster UCP 1100W PSU?
90 meters enough?


i did my Kingwin Lazer 1000w with less the 60Meters and it was my first time


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *runeazn*


ey guys which is betta paracord or furryletters sleeving?
and how much sleeving needed for my Coolermaster UCP 1100W PSU?
90 meters enough?


Depends on which FL sleeve you are referring to. A lot of people feel the Clean Cut Black or Grey is as good as the paracord if not better, while others feel the opposite. Personally I think the Clean Cut is better.

If you the PET sleeve in other colors then there is no comparison. The Paracord is a thousand times better than the Pet crap.

As for how much you need you'll need to figure that out for yourself. Measure each of the cable bundles, multiply that by the number of wires in each, add all of that together, then add 15 or 25% extra just to make sure you have enough. You'll need about 5/8" to 3/4" of heatshrink for each end of a sleeve so determine how many actual sleeves you will be using (some cables like molex and sata power cables will use multiple smaller sleeves per wire), multiply that by 1.5", then add 35 to 45% estra since you'll waste more heatshrink than you will sleeve.

Don't forget to add in your fan wires, front case switch and led cables, etc. if you intend to sleeve them as well.


----------



## SmasherBasher

150 ft should be enough

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blindsay*


I just ordered some extensions from http://psychosleeve.com/

Got the 24 pin, 8 pin, 2 6pin and 2 6+2 pin. Red/black since those are my favorite colors.

originally was gonna sleeve every single cable but the cost was a bit much for me. these cables are really the only ones visible in my case anyways.

cant wait to get them










Wait a minute here. You're saying that it was cheaper to spend $190 plus shipping for extensions than for enough sleeve and heatshrink to do your PSU? Sorry, but that doesn't compute.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*


So like a pinout?

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


Yes. I need the pinouot for the PSU side of the X-650 PSU.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12375171*
> Wait a minute here. You're saying that it was cheaper to spend $190 plus shipping for extensions that for enough sleeve and heatshrink to do your PSU? Sorry, but that doesn't compute.


no i was never going to do it myself, i was going to send my psu to him and sleeve every cable but it would have been like $450+ so i changed my mind just to do the primary cables.


----------



## PapaSmurf

That makes more sense.


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay;12372279*
> I just ordered some extensions from http://psychosleeve.com/
> 
> Got the 24 pin, 8 pin, 2 6pin and 2 6+2 pin. Red/black since those are my favorite colors.
> 
> originally was gonna sleeve every single cable but the cost was a bit much for me. these cables are really the only ones visible in my case anyways.
> 
> cant wait to get them


Wow


----------



## j0035

I ordered from MDPC-X and its been 9 days and still no package.


----------



## runeazn

i might get paracord since its dirt cheap..
and i could use some sleeve training








anybody know where to get good and cheap heatshrink?


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *j0035*


I ordered from MDPC-X and its been 9 days and still no package.


I ordered mines from them on January 30th, it shipped the next day and it was delivered yesterday. So it took 10 business days.

So you should have it soon.


----------



## JedixJarf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay;12372279*
> I just ordered some extensions from http://psychosleeve.com/
> 
> Got the 24 pin, 8 pin, 2 6pin and 2 6+2 pin. Red/black since those are my favorite colors.
> 
> originally was gonna sleeve every single cable but the cost was a bit much for me. these cables are really the only ones visible in my case anyways.
> 
> cant wait to get them


Wait.... You spent 200 bux on extensions? are you for real?


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JedixJarf;12395032*
> Wait.... You spent 200 bux on extensions? are you for real?


yeah, your point being? if you want the best expect to pay a premium. And compared to the cost of the rest of my system its small.

thought these were enthusiast forums


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay;12395199*
> yeah, your point being? if you want the best expect to pay a premium. And compared to the cost of the rest of my system its small.
> 
> thought these were enthusiast forums


We are an enthusiast forum; though because we are enthusiasts, many people hold the idea that you should DIY (do it yourself.)

As our rigs are DIY work.
Our water cooling loops are DIY work.
cable sleeving is generally DIY


----------



## Shane1244

No one can do it as well as Crysis Gamer though


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j0035;12394574*
> I ordered from MDPC-X and its been 9 days and still no package.


Without knowing where you are there is no way for anyone to know if it should have arrived by now or not. It does come from Europe so if you are from North Americal, Asia, Australia/New Zealand, etc. it could easily take two weeks or more to arrive.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *runeazn;12394590*
> i might get paracord since its dirt cheap..
> and i could use some sleeve training
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anybody know where to get good and cheap heatshrink?


FurryLetters. E-mail Barry at [email protected] Tell him what size and how much you need and he'll send you a quote. 1/4" tends to be the recommended size.

There is a thread dedicated to using the ParaCord as sleeve here at OCN.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shane1244;12395525*
> No one can do it as well as Crysis Gamer though


and this is why im having him do it. Sure i could probably learn how to sleeve pretty fast but he takes it to the next level and makes it an art lol


----------



## JedixJarf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay;12395199*
> yeah, your point being? if you want the best expect to pay a premium. And compared to the cost of the rest of my system its small.
> 
> thought these were enthusiast forums


If you want the best sleeve your own psu, dont be a poser and spend $200 on five extensions.


----------



## LuckySe7ens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JedixJarf;12397574*
> If you want the best sleeve your own psu, dont be a poser and spend $200 on five extensions.


He's a poser because his $200 is worth less then the hours he might have to spend to get a similar result? His time is just worth more then yours, get over it.


----------



## Lutro0

There is no point to arguing this point. Some will choose to buy and some will choose to take the time to learn the art. Agree to disagree and please move on.
=)


----------



## PapaSmurf

And some people simply do not have the physical abilities or dexterity to work with small wires like that. My arthritis makes it difficult for me to sleeve wires. I can do about 4 wires a day before my fingers become so stiff and sore that I have to stop and wait a couple of days for them to recover. I could sleeve a psu, but it would take me so long to finish it it simply isn't worth it to me to do so these days. I'm sure that I'm not the only person here on OCN that has that problem.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12398341*
> And some people simply do not have the physical abilities or dexterity to work with small wires like that. My arthritis makes it difficult for me to sleeve wires. I can do about 4 wires a day before my fingers become so stiff and sore that I have to stop and wait a couple of days for them to recover. I could sleeve a psu, but it would take me so long to finish it it simply isn't worth it to me to do so these days. I'm sure that I'm not the only person here on OCN that has that problem.


Also a valid reason.


----------



## SmasherBasher

If you guys don't want to stop arguing about extensions, I can always delete the thread and hand out infractions









Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


----------



## Shane1244

There's nothing wrong with civial argueing. Saying you're going to delete the thread is just silly, as it'd just get pput back up.







..even if you were just kidding


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


No one can do it as well as Crysis Gamer though










I, and a world of other modders (more so the ones featured on MDPC) would care to disagree on such terms.









He does a good job; but there are plenty of modders who put in the same time and get the same work done.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I, and a world of other modders (more so the ones featured on MDPC) would care to disagree on such terms.









He does a good job; but there are plenty of modders who put in the same time and get the same work done.


well they need a website of their own then too


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


We are an enthusiast forum; though because we are enthusiasts, many people hold the idea that you should DIY (do it yourself.)

As our rigs are DIY work. 
Our water cooling loops are DIY work. 
cable sleeving is generally DIY


agreed completly u red my mind when i was reading his post


----------



## AusPC

Hi All









My Friend just got an HX750







, I'll be sleeving his 6+2 PCI-E Modular Cables soon and the other cables OFC









Cheers - Jason


----------



## oliverw92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot;12401062*
> I, and a world of other modders (more so the ones featured on MDPC) would care to disagree on such terms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He does a good job; but there are plenty of modders who put in the same time and get the same work done.


Actually most of the people on MDPC have said at some time or another that Martin is one of, if not the best sleevers in the world.


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oliverw92;12417537*
> Actually most of the people on MDPC have said at some time or another that Martin is one of, if not the best sleevers in the world.


I Agree with what you are saying, But Tator_tot was responding to a comment which stated that "Martin was the Best (no.1) Sleever in the world". And that is what Tator_tot disagreed with on the grounds that there are other "Great" Sleevers.

Cheers - Jason


----------



## oliverw92

Oh my bad, mis-read it


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oliverw92;12417608*
> Oh my bad, mis-read it


It's all good Ollie.

It's an art form; and most of those sleevers are craftsman. They'll all be vying over scraps for the best results.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*


If you guys don't want to stop arguing about extensions, I can always delete the thread and hand out infractions









Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


This isn't one of the "club" threads that go on for 5000 pages. This thread is full of invaluable information and art, and the extensions topic is a useful topic to discuss. To say you're going to punish all of us for the posts of one user, even if half-joking, is IMO very hurtful and disrespetful. Just had to get that off my chest.

It does take a good amount of time invested to sleeve cables yourself, and if someone has a job that doesn't give them the time to do it well themselves (or a disablity), I don't personally see the problem in buying the extensions, but that's just me.


----------



## godofdeath

still waiting on my order from nils
its been 4 days i want it NAO


----------



## rockcoeur

Do you guys know if "Kobra High Density Cable Sleeving" is any good? http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=139_174&products_id=972

Thanks!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Yes it is, but it's expensive. Unless you are only doing a few fans and only need a few feet of it you would probably be better off ordering from MDPC-X.


----------



## godofdeath

ZOMG ZOMG ZOMG

PURPLE #2

I think my gf will definitely want this one

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sle...vid-violet.htm

Could use some new heatshrink to go with these new colors


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Has anyone tried the new magic blue? And how it compares to the other two?

Also, which cable mounts from mdpc-x would you guys say would be most useful and would get? Jumbo for 24 pin.. which others, and would I even need more than 10 of one kind?


----------



## drka0tic

I ordered some small and sata sleeve of the blue magic. Nils was generous enough to include about a foot of the other two blue colors. I will post pics in the morning.

I really love the blue magic. It falls right in between the others.

Look around in the murdermod gallery site to get an idea of how to route your cables and to figure out which clamps to get. I myself ordered some look-alikes from Mcmaster-Carr and will be painted them black.


----------



## ErBall

Not the greatest pic of the sleeving itself, but it was all done by hand. No pre-modded extensions for me.


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Has anyone tried the new magic blue? And how it compares to the other two?


Here is the comparison pic. From left to right: B-Magic Small, Grand Bleu Small, Aquamarine Small, B-Magic SATA.


















I love the B-magic, it goes with my scheme perfectly. I will be sleeving my PSU this weekend. Wish me luck


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r




----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Stop it you make me want to sleeve but I have no free time yet


----------



## rockcoeur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r;12447774*










That's like.. The most beautiful thing I saw in days! +rep to you!


----------



## rockcoeur

Guys, is the sleeving sold on Jab-Tech any good? Thanks!


----------



## PapaSmurf

It's Pet. The quality is okay, but it has a fairly loose weave. It's the stuff on the right. Basically it's fine for cable management, but not worth a darn for aesthetics.


----------



## Lune

Guys where do you buy all that? I can't find anything good in here.. http://www.aquatuning.de/index.php/cPath/887

Can anyone help me? : / I pretty much need something good for the 24 mobo power and PSU cables, molex too

I will just use this website http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve.htm

Seems to be EU... perfect


----------



## M0E

You know whats annoying? Trying to find somewhere locally that carries ATX pin tools. NO ONE does









I cant seem to get the staple trick to work. Guess Ill have to order online.


----------



## drka0tic

Tell me about it. Started this morning and could not get even one pin out of my Corsair PSU. I went over to MicroCenter and they have a wall full of sleeving, molex, heatshrink, etc. and not one pin removal tool.

I found some other videos of people using more than one staple. I will try that next.


----------



## Tator Tot

My Microcenter for a short period of time had the Sunbeam PSU Modding Kit; I picked it up for $3 on sale.


----------



## drka0tic

Cool. Does that one work ok? Not sure which one to order if I cant get the staple method figured out.


----------



## M0E

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot;12449410*
> My Microcenter for a short period of time had the Sunbeam PSU Modding Kit; I picked it up for $3 on sale.


I unfortunately live in Arkansas now. I just moved here from Dallas less than a year ago. We have Radioshack and Bestbuy...thats it for computer stores


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic;12449426*
> Cool. Does that one work ok? Not sure which one to order if I cant get the staple method figured out.


It's alright.

I prefer the Lamptron Modding Tool.

It's a bit costly.


----------



## M0E

God I miss microcenter and Frys so bad


----------



## Ragsters

Today I finished my 24pin. Well... almost. I have one wire left that I need to sleeve with black sleeving but I ran out. I literally need just 24" of small MDPC black sleeving to finish my project. Does anyone have some that they can just send me via regular mail. I even have plenty of white sleeving I can trade with. Please guys. I want to post pictures but not until everything is officially complete.


----------



## drka0tic

WOW. The Lamptron set looks sweet.


----------



## Crys1s_Gam3r

Thank you SecrtAgentMan and rockcoeur.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


Today I finished my 24pin. Well... almost. I have one wire left that I need to sleeve with black sleeving but I ran out. I literally need just 24" of small MDPC black sleeving to finish my project. Does anyone have some that they can just send me via regular mail. I even have plenty of white sleeving I can trade with. Please guys. I want to post pictures but not until everything is officially complete.


if you posted this earlier i wouldnt have gone and bought some white


----------



## OolerTheInventor

I will be doing my sleeving very soon. Blue and White theme with paracord. Check out the beginning of my build log HERE.


----------



## ninjabelly

Got an interesting note in my email from Nil's today confirming my shipment lol.

"Your little box ... lol ... is on the way, starting this monday. What do you do with this amount? Eat it?

It might take around 2 weeks to arrive, because customs have never seen these things and in these quantities, they usually take longer than normal. So expect about 2 weeks, maybe even worse







"

The waiting begins







, hopefully it won't be too long







.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


Today I finished my 24pin. Well... almost. I have one wire left that I need to sleeve with black sleeving but I ran out. I literally need just 24" of small MDPC black sleeving to finish my project. Does anyone have some that they can just send me via regular mail. I even have plenty of white sleeving I can trade with. Please guys. I want to post pictures but not until everything is officially complete.


Throw me a pm and I can help you out.


----------



## AusPC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r*


Thank you SecrtAgentMan and rockcoeur.



















 Awesome Stuff Martin , Perfect as always


----------



## RushMore1205

What size sleeve of clean cut do I buy if I want to single sleeve? And what shrink?


----------



## Shane1244

Op


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ninjabelly;12453096*
> Got an interesting note in my email from Nil's today confirming my shipment lol.
> 
> "Your little box ... lol ... is on the way, starting this monday. What do you do with this amount? Eat it?
> 
> It might take around 2 weeks to arrive, because customs have never seen these things and in these quantities, they usually take longer than normal. So expect about 2 weeks, maybe even worse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "
> 
> The waiting begins
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , hopefully it won't be too long
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Throw me a pm and I can help you out.










how much sleeving did you buy!?


----------



## Martin S




----------



## Ragsters

I finally finished enough of my sleeving project to post some pics. Don't come down on me too hard. This is my first time ever sleeving.


----------



## M0E

Looks good to me.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Looks pretty darn good to me.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *M0E*


Looks good to me.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Looks pretty darn good to me.


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


I finally finished enough of my sleeving project to post some pics. Don't come down on me too hard. This is my first time ever sleeving.


DUDE! That looks amazing. No way that's your first time.


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Grats on finishing your sleeving project







. Also, do you guys have tools you'd recommend for sleeving? I ordered my sleeving and heatshrink from MDPC-X the other day but didn't get any tools.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drka0tic*


DUDE! That looks amazing. No way that's your first time.


I re-did them so many times until I was somewhat satisfied. Oh and thanks for the comment.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*


Grats on finishing your sleeving project







. Also, do you guys have tools you'd recommend for sleeving? I ordered my sleeving and heatshrink from MDPC-X the other day but didn't get any tools.


I used the lamptron tool kit.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=28750


----------



## drka0tic

That's a nice kit. I'm thinking of getting that too. All I've done so far it's one PCI-E 8-pin cable and my fingers have a crapload of cuts from the staples.


----------



## Ceadderman

Here are my sleeving tools.
I was going to use the orange sleeving with Black shrink(Giants WS Champs baby!!!) but would rather have used orange shrink instead which I don't have...








You can see part of one of my SATA cables...









Full shot...









Money shot...









Parting salvo...
































~Ceadder


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drka0tic*


That's a nice kit. I'm thinking of getting that too. All I've done so far it's one PCI-E 8-pin cable and my fingers have a crapload of cuts from the staples.


Take a look at my pin tool. $10 + shipping @ Performance-PCs.com pretty strudy so long as you don't twist the tool. I've found that you can insert the fork into the ATX connector and separate the pin from the housing without even holding the tool. Just make sure not to jurk the cable. Otherwise you could separate it from the pin or worse, slingshot the tool into your brothers eye.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drka0tic*


That's a nice kit. I'm thinking of getting that too. All I've done so far it's one PCI-E 8-pin cable and my fingers have a crapload of cuts from the staples.


I use staples when the tool kit is not cooperating.


----------



## wzhaoca

Hey Martin,

Outstanding job as usual. I was wondering: your title says white, but those look like grey to me, is that a mistake , or are those actually white? It may just be the lighting.

Anyway great job again. I was considering that exact color combo. Looks great!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r*


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Take a look at my pin tool. $10 + shipping @ Performance-PCs.com pretty strudy so long as you don't twist the tool. I've found that you can insert the fork into the ATX connector and separate the pin from the housing without even holding the tool. Just make sure not to jurk the cable. Otherwise you could separate it from the pin or worse, slingshot the tool into your brothers eye.









~Ceadder










Cool. Thanks for the tip.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


I finally finished enough of my sleeving project to post some pics. Don't come down on me too hard. This is my first time ever sleeving.


how did you sleeve the double cables on the x650 like the wires that 3 that are in the psu end on the 24 pin plug and also the thinner wire


----------



## Martin S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wzhaoca;12475527*
> Hey Martin,
> 
> Outstanding job as usual. I was wondering: your title says white, but those look like grey to me, is that a mistake , or are those actually white? It may just be the lighting.
> 
> Anyway great job again. I was considering that exact color combo. Looks great!


That would be white sleeve on black wire. This is perhaps a more accurate representation:


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godofdeath;12476002*
> how did you sleeve the double cables on the x650 like the wires that 3 that are in the psu end on the 24 pin plug and also the thinner wire


Look at post #3358.
http://www.overclock.net/12134231-post3358.html

That is exactly what I did. I also took the two double wires on the left side of the 24pin, and put them in the back. Let me try to explain. Here is pin layout:

http://pinouts.ru/Power/atx_v2_pinout.shtml

Pin 2 and 3 are double wires. I sleeved them like post #3358 and switched pin 2 (double wire) with pin 13. I also switched pin 3 (double wire) with pin 15. This way all the wires in the front are single. The double wire, with the thinner wire attached to it (pin 21), was just left where it is since it is already in the back. It makes a difference for me because the way my 24pin cable will be connected you wont be able to see any of the back wires.


----------



## Shane1244

You need to set your white balance better, or better yet.. Shoot RAW!


----------



## NguyenAdam

Where would be the best place to buy sleeve and for how much? I plan on getting a new PSU soon and want to sleeve the whole system. Sata cables, power cables, fans, etc.

Also is there a guide to teach me how to go through this process? I realize this takes a considerable amount of time, but I am willing to do it in order to make my system look great.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NguyenAdam;12477047*
> Where would be the best place to buy sleeve and for how much? I plan on getting a new PSU soon and want to sleeve the whole system. Sata cables, power cables, fans, etc.
> 
> Also is there a guide to teach me how to go through this process? I realize this takes a considerable amount of time, but I am willing to do it in order to make my system look great.


Please read the first post.


----------



## NguyenAdam

Ahh sorry about that. I was too mesmerized by the pictures that I skipped the first post. Hahaha.


----------



## M0E

I ran out of heatshrink lol

Going to try and color match locally as it would be pointless to order more from MDPC-X


----------



## PulkPull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r;12447774*


Beautiful. I think I stretch my sleeving too much, because when I try (and I have tried) as little heatshrink on my sleeve, the sleeving pulls out of the heatshrink.

What's your secret?

Yes I use MDPC sleeving and heatshrink.

This is the length of heatshrink I have use to ensure the sleeve does not pull out of the heatshrink.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PulkPull;12477404*
> Beautiful. I think I stretch my sleeving too much, because when I try (and I have tried) as little heatshrink on my sleeve, the sleeving pulls out of the heatshrink.
> 
> What's your secret?
> 
> Yes I use MDPC sleeving and heatshrink.
> 
> This is the length of heatshrink I have use to ensure the sleeve does not pull out of the heatshrink.


should read nils guide then it explain specifically on how to do it like martins

heatshrink should be 15mm


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah I need to get some more SATA and std single sleeve shrink. I have so many Peripheral cables that Red SATA shrink went pretty fast. Didn't help that being the perfectionist that I am I went a little nuts with the heat trying to set the shrink as tight as I could possibly get it.









An really? No constructive criticism from you guys? I think that my SATAs' are top notch but I'm pretty sure that I could have stretched my sleeving a bit more and locked it up with shorter pieces of shrink.

So what y'all think?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## gamingowiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx;8377091*
> here is what i got:
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230352154742&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT
> 
> and
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380162541633&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT
> 
> I also got some of this to cover solder joints:
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330190880076&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT
> 
> I used about 200ft of sleeve and 20ft of heatshrink to do the whole PSU and all my fans and my front panel.
> 
> It probably took me about 5-6 hours total to do all the work. It would have been quicker if I had a heat gun, but I just used a candle.
> 
> also, get one of these pin remover tools:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3836/too-07/FrozenCPU_Dual_Head_ATX_Connector_Removal_Tool_ATX_4-pin_P4_6-pin_PCI-E_8-pin_Xeon_Auxiliary_3-pin_or_4-pin_Fan_Flop.html?tl=g35c133s257
> 
> They work great for both types of pins. I did break one half way through though so you might want to get 2.
> 
> For more pics check out my worklog, I am not done yet, so subscribe if you want to see the end product.


My god, that case look amazing! I've been saving for eyefinty but... I think I might just blow it all on that case and water cooling! wow I really am in ore of that set up...


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Those look amazing Rag haha









Did the X650 cables have any issues other than removing them?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;12483549*
> Those look amazing Rag haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did the X650 cables have any issues other than removing them?


The double wires were a pain especially the one with the thin red wire. I think my next sleeving will be extensions. They seem much easier. Oh and thanks for the comment!


----------



## j0035

What I have so far, ran out of hinkshrink! I'm only doing 24pin, 4pin to mobo, and 6pin gpu. My PSU was already sleeved in a blue and all the other cables are that color.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


The double wires were a pain especially the one with the thin red wire. I think my next sleeving will be extensions. They seem much easier. Oh and thanks for the comment!










Lol try three of those suckers and not having the tool on hand to separate them.









Man that was a royal pain in the Okole. I hadda sit on my hands after I ran into that little problem. That's what started me on a 6 month respite from my system.

I've got to get more shrink so I can clean up some of these cables. They're not bad but I know I could make them look much cleaner.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12495801*
> Lol try three of those suckers and not having the tool on hand to separate them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man that was a royal pain in the Okole. I hadda sit on my hands after I ran into that little problem. That's what started me on a 6 month respite from my system.
> 
> I've got to get more shrink so I can clean up some of these cables. They're not bad but I know I could make them look much cleaner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Well.. The X-650 also has 3 double wires as well all on the 24pin. Read my post to see if it works for you on your PSU.
http://www.overclock.net/12476439-post3590.html
You shouldn't need to separate them.


----------



## teccboxx

I am currently doing a custom CNC machine that I am building and I have a large cabinet for the cnc controller and the pc that is running the machine. I do have a question since I will be running anywhere from 1000-1500 feet of cable I am leaning towards paracord over the MPDC because of cost.

Now my question is geared more to the saftey aspect. As I am guessing that MPDC is made of PET and the Paracord is made of Nylon and neither is fire ******ent. Is the worry about either not holding up to the heat and starting a fire? Might seam like a dumb question but I have $6000 into the electrical side itself and another $4000 in the mechanical so I am a little leary on which one is better and safer.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teccboxx;12499384*
> I am currently doing a custom CNC machine that I am building and I have a large cabinet for the cnc controller and the pc that is running the machine. I do have a question since I will be running anywhere from 1000-1500 feet of cable I am leaning towards paracord over the MPDC because of cost.
> 
> Now my question is geared more to the saftey aspect. As I am guessing that MPDC is made of PET and the Paracord is made of Nylon and neither is fire ******ent. Is the worry about either not holding up to the heat and starting a fire? Might seam like a dumb question but I have $6000 into the electrical side itself and another $4000 in the mechanical so I am a little leary on which one is better and safer.


Im guessing you are going to want to check out Techflex and look at some of their nonflammable sleeve or types like that.


----------



## PapaSmurf

^^^ Agreed.

+1


----------



## drka0tic

Did anyone else find the ATX connector easier to de-pin compared to the PCI-E connectors?

It literally took me an hour to remove the pins out of a single 8-pin PCI-E cable and today after work I decided to tackle the ATX and I removed them all *and* tagged them in a just over 30 minutes. It felt like I soaked the connector in WD-40







, the pins were sliding out so smoothly.

Previously I struggled with multiple staple methods, today I used only the 2 L-shaped double staple method.

Also, I was at Radio Shack and found these "Wire and Cable Markers" for $1.99. They worked beautifully. Highly recommended to avoid headaches.
So now my cables are tagged and ready to be sleeved over the weekend.


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^I found something better. The housing. Of course it's very time consuming but you cannot go wrong unless you get cute and try to do more than one at a time.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


Well.. The X-650 also has 3 double wires as well all on the 24pin. Read my post to see if it works for you on your PSU.
http://www.overclock.net/12476439-post3590.html
You shouldn't need to separate them.


I had to, in order to get the wires to sit right when I ran the sleeve back to the PSU.









Once sleeved the whole group becomes so thick that it's a huge pain to get them back into the housing when you put the cover back on.









I finally got fed up and shortened the 24 pin sleeves and covered the exposed portions with some quality Nylon material and shrank over those with Red shrink. Doesn't look bad either.

~Ceadder


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


^^^I found something better. The housing. Of course it's very time consuming but you cannot go wrong unless you get cute and try to do more than one at a time.









I had to, in order to get the wires to sit right when I ran the sleeve back to the PSU.









Once sleeved the whole group becomes so thick that it's a huge pain to get them back into the housing when you put the cover back on.









I finally got fed up and shortened the 24 pin sleeves and covered the exposed portions with some quality Nylon material and shrank over those with Red shrink. Doesn't look bad either.

~Ceadder










Post the pics.


----------



## wupah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teccboxx*


I am currently doing a custom CNC machine that I am building and I have a large cabinet for the cnc controller and the pc that is running the machine. I do have a question since I will be running anywhere from 1000-1500 feet of cable I am leaning towards paracord over the MPDC because of cost.

Now my question is geared more to the saftey aspect. As I am guessing that MPDC is made of PET and the Paracord is made of Nylon and neither is fire ******ent. Is the worry about either not holding up to the heat and starting a fire? Might seam like a dumb question but I have $6000 into the electrical side itself and another $4000 in the mechanical so I am a little leary on which one is better and safer.



Wouldn't you want something that resists to oil and coolant too ? Every time I've worked with or around manual or CNC machines, the floor would always get greasy or some coolant would start leaking on my foot.


----------



## Shane1244

I'd go for the paracord, just because of how cheap it is. Either that, or get CleanCut. No point of getting MDPC.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


I'd go for the paracord, just because of how cheap it is. Either that, or get CleanCut. No point of getting MDPC.


Ever seen the stuff up close and personal?









MDPC may be spendy, but it's the best quality hands down sleeving. I'm not saying that people have to use it but to dismiss the stuff out of hand is just...







I would get banned for using the word that I want to use right now.









Let's just say unless you have hands on knowledge, to keep it to yourself. Cool?









Was going to go with Clean Cut, but I'm damn glad I spared no exspense on my system. I'm still sleeving, but this stuff is gorgeous.









I think the only turn off to many here who espouse going CC or paracord is that it's sold only in Europe and the shipping costs associated with buying overseas. But honestly I've put $130 into this which is nothing compared to what others have invested. Only reason I went with MDPC was cause I had an unnamed investor help me out when I was short a few bucks to get my first bit of sleeving. Until there is better I'm an MDPC fan for life.









~Ceadder


----------



## `br4dz-

Any pics of B-Magic?


----------



## teccboxx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wupah*


Wouldn't you want something that resists to oil and coolant too ? Every time I've worked with or around manual or CNC machines, the floor would always get greasy or some coolant would start leaking on my foot.


Being a wood CNC router, there will be no coolant, oil, or cutting fluid. The biggest thing I have to worry about is dust.

However you made me think of something else, the dust. It will probably be easier to clean the mdpc/cleancut over the paracord with the loose fibers it has, I think I am going to actually end up doing a combination of mdpc and cleancut.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teccboxx*


Being a wood CNC router, there will be no coolant, oil, or cutting fluid. The biggest thing I have to worry about is dust.

However you made me think of something else, the dust. It will probably be easier to clean the mdpc/cleancut over the paracord with the loose fibers it has, I think I am going to actually end up doing a combination of mdpc and cleancut.


Get yourself a soft bristle paintbrush and it works well. I doubt there would be much of a difference between the para cord or the others. In fact para cord seem to stand up pretty well to dust. It is used for parachutes after all.









I would stay away from canned or compressed air until you brush off the dust. Otherwise you'll blow it into the weave where it can be a bugger to get out. Just redid the cable routing in the back of my system to see if there might be too long a screw back there causing my stability issues(I got two sizes so might have put a longer one behind the MoBo) and while I was in my cabinet I brushed all the cables off. Looks rather spiffy at the moment.









~Ceadder


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *`br4dz-*


Any pics of B-Magic?


Check some of my previous posts:

Post #3550Comparison with other MDPC blue colors

Post #3608Installed [Check to the right of the pic]


----------



## Ceadderman

Someone needs help linking back to previous posts I think.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drka0tic*


Check some of my previous posts:

Comparison with other MDPC blue colors

Installed [Check to the right of the pic]


You need to make the links to the post number, not the PermaLink. If you use the PermaLink it will only work for people who have the default posts per page setting in their profile. If they change that setting it will not go to the proper post.


----------



## drka0tic

Gotcha. Thanks. Links have been corrected. I always wondered what permalink meant


----------



## PapaSmurf

Permalink essentially means screwed up.


----------



## RushMore1205

has anyone here tried to make their own calbes???
do u guys have the molex too?
this is the tool:


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


has anyone here tried to make their own calbes???
do u guys have the molex too?
this is the tool:










i bought the mdpc-x crimper tool heard that honglong one wasn't any good but never tried


----------



## SmasherBasher

I have the one from Frozen CPU. It's the same one as the MDPC one. Just takes a little practice to get right. Making my own cables is now easy.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;12515749*
> I have the one from Frozen CPU. It's the same one as the MDPC one. Just takes a little practice to get right. Making my own cables is now easy.


yeah, i figured it out, this toold make it extremly easy, definatly a great buy, worth every dollar


----------



## Ceadderman

That tool is really good. Takes a bit of getting used to, but after a bit it worked like a charm the crimps even fold into the insulation like they are supposed to. Wished I'da had it when I started my project.

Oh well I have it now and will be able to sleeve other PSUs' w/o worry.









Got mine from Performance-PCs.com. In fact the only tool I got from MDPC-x was the Mole male and female tools that you crimp together to make the full tool. That one works awesome too. So if you ever find yourself making the order from them get that tool. It's cheap enough and won't impact your shipping.










~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## AusPC

I have one of the Molex Crimping Tools, Works like a charm


----------



## KamuiRSX

I figured I'd post these pics over in here as well for those interested.

This is a new dense weave of colored sleeving offered by Barry (FurryLetters). Unfortunately, it's only available in blue and white currently.

I posted them in the thread here: http://www.overclock.net/other-hardware-mods/737210-great-news-furryletters-sleeving.html










On the left is Techflex Clean Cut, Bottom Middle is the new Dense Weave white, and at the top right are the Kobra Sleeving in white and purple for comparison.










Here's a pic showing how the actual ends of the sleeves look when compared.










This one is Clean Cut vs the new Dense Weave white. As you can see, the white has a larger diameter than the Clean Cut but they both use the same 3/16th heat shrink tubing so it's not that big of a deal.










Another comparison shot of the Techflex Clean Cut and the new weave.










A close up of the new dense weave. It's just a little bit see through when relaxed but once you pull it tight, it's good to go.

Unfortunately, I can't remember what I did with my PSU tools...so I haven't taken a picture of it with a wire inside yet. I'll hopefully find them tonight and then post one. If you guys want a specific picture, please let me know and I'll take it.


----------



## godofdeath

what are all the new colors barry has?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godofdeath;12527444*
> what are all the new colors barry has?


According to the e-mail he sent me yesterday about it, he has Black and Blue now with Red coming soon.


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godofdeath;12527444*
> what are all the new colors barry has?


Well, there's only 3 colors in this new dense weave currently and they are white, black and blue. However, the Techflex Clean Cut is still the better black when comparing against the new weave so I would just skip the black and stick with the other colors.

The others that are PET with lots of colors are terribly see through and not dense at all. Even with double sleeving (and that's a pain) it's still really see through.

These are more dense and are closer to the Techflex Clean Cut in comparison. I just shot pictures using the new dense weave, Clean Cut, and Kobra Sleeving for comparison so you could visually see their difference rather than me just typing it out








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12527544*
> According to the e-mail he sent me yesterday about it, he has Black and Blue now with Red coming soon.


Are the pics good enough?


----------



## Lutro0

I had a sample of this a while back, I believe its simply too big/see through for single sleeving, but might be ok for other applications. The sample I had also kept the flat shape no mater what I did, so it looked odd. lol


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;12528123*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a sample of this a while back, I believe its simply too big/see through for single sleeving, but might be ok for other applications. The sample I had also kept the flat shape no mater what I did, so it looked odd. lol


mms, Pressed sleeved urgh


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mijason4;12528226*
> mms, Pressed sleeved urgh


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;12528240*
> LOL, yea its a tad pancakeish. >.<


Hey Lutro0 , That sleeve looks a tad smaller than my 6mm. Can you confirm?

Cheers - Jason


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mijason4;12528503*
> Hey Lutro0 , That sleeve looks a tad smaller than my 6mm. Can you confirm?
> 
> Cheers - Jason


Yea just by a tad.


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;12528530*
> Yea just by a tad.


Thanks


----------



## Ceadderman

@KamuiRSX... That looks... NOM NOM NOM NOM NOM NOM NOM...










Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*

Post the pics.










They're comin I hadda shut down last night to address a temp issue with my NB(fluctuated between 44c-49c) and while I was doing that I cleaned up my behind the scenes cable management. Still working on it but now it's only my top 200mm Exh fan which isn't registering when I fire it up. Yes the fan works but it's shy I guess.









Well anyway I gots before and after shots that I'm currently headed to upload.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dualbrain

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*


I have the one from Frozen CPU. It's the same one as the MDPC one.


100% *not *the same


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dualbrain*


100% *not *the same
















































@Room...

Update on cable management....

Be4...
Notice how everything is pretty much in the same spot?



















Afta...

Now it ain't.


















This stuff is NOTHING like what you find at Frozen, Performance, Xoxide or anywhere else.









~Ceadder


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dualbrain*


100% *not *the same










+1

The MDPC is more comparable to the Techflex Clean Cut (diameter) and you can clearly see the differences between the Clean Cut and Kobra Sleeving in my pics above.

Some people say it's also harder to sleeve with the Kobra sleeving. I have yet to really give it a try other than for testing so I don't have any official knowledge of it. But I do know that it is so insanely expensive (unless the price dropped recently) that it's not a viable solution and you'll actually spend less money with MDPC (which in itself should tell you all you need to know).


----------



## Ceadderman

Am I missing something?

I see no pics Kamui.









I need cable prono.
















~Ceadder


----------



## SmasherBasher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX*


+1

The MDPC is more comparable to the Techflex Clean Cut (diameter) and you can clearly see the differences between the Clean Cut and Kobra Sleeving in my pics above.

Some people say it's also harder to sleeve with the Kobra sleeving. I have yet to really give it a try other than for testing so I don't have any official knowledge of it. But I do know that it is so insanely expensive (unless the price dropped recently) that it's not a viable solution and you'll actually spend less money with MDPC (which in itself should tell you all you need to know).



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dualbrain*


100% *not *the same











Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*







































@Room...

Update on cable management....

Be4...
Notice how everything is pretty much in the same spot?



















Afta...

Now it ain't.


















This stuff is NOTHING like what you find at Frozen, Performance, Xoxide or anywhere else.









~Ceadder











Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Am I missing something?

I see no pics Kamui.









I need cable prono.
















~Ceadder









































Guys I was talking about the crimping tool...... it's the same as the one Nils has.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah I believe that it is the same tool, just different handles on Nil's crimping tool. I probably woulda bought his but it cost too much when you drop shipping on that beast. If you're getting a Gianormous shipment you can absorb that cost but if you're a broke ace like myself it's hard to justify. And just one reason why my system was down for 6 months.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dualbrain

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*


Guys I was talking about the crimping tool...... it's the same as the one Nils has.










And I referred to the crimping tool too









The crimping tool is 100% *not *the same. The people who had the frozen / PPCS (both made by Han-Long) before and switched to this one know it exactly.

A car has 4 wheels, but that doesn't mean all cars are the same. A crimping tool has two handles and a crimping-bracket, but that doesn't mean they are doing the same crimp. The crimping result is different: "B" has overlapped wings, "A" has bite-and-twirl-into-insulation crimps (as a good crimp should be).

Funny thing that so many people in forums "think" and confidently speak about things, which they don't know, because they never had it. The ones that know, will read it and smile. No offense, just what I see every day.

But as pictures might help, here is MDPC bite-and-twirl-on the inside-of-the-insulation-crimp on the left, (center is an example of short-wing-crimp-terminals), and Han-Long overlap-only-crimp on the right. Picture courtesy by Howard:










This should explain the differences. To believe something is different than knowing facts.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dualbrain*


And I referred to the crimping tool too









The crimping tool is 100% *not *the same. The people who had the frozen / PPCS (both made by Han-Long) before and switched to this one know it exactly.

A car has 4 wheels, but that doesn't mean all cars are the same. A crimping tool has two handles and a crimping-bracket, but that doesn't mean they are doing the same crimp. The crimping result is different: "B" has overlapped wings, "A" has bite-and-twirl-into-insulation crimps (as a good crimp should be).

Funny thing that so many people in forums "think" and confidently speak about things, which they don't know, because they never had it. The ones that know, will read it and smile. No offense, just what I see every day.

But as pictures might help, here is MDPC bite-and-twirl-on the inside-of-the-insulation-crimp on the left, (center is an example of short-wing-crimp-terminals), and Han-Long overlap-only-crimp on the right. Picture courtesy by Howard:










This should explain the differences. To believe something is different than knowing facts.


Ummmm, my tool does it correctly. It's user stupid if you get the fold over. I had to change 5 pins on my PSU. 2 in the 8 pin and 3 in the 24 pin and not once did the tool fail to get the correct crimp. It did bite the pin a few times at the earlocks but that was my inexperience with it. Once I got the depth figured out it was all good from there.

They ARE the same tool. If you'd like I'll even get some 18 guage wire and pin those suckers and ship them to you to confirm. Just like the Molex tool Nils sells can be purchased as well. I love his stuff and will never bad mouth him but c'mon bruh he's not the only retailer on the planet for tools.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Dualbrain

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


They ARE the same tool. If you'd like I'll even get some 18 guage wire and pin those suckers and ship them to you to confirm. Just like the Molex tool Nils sells can be purchased as well. I love his stuff and will never bad mouth him but c'mon bruh he's not the only retailer on the planet for tools.







lol

~Ceadder










Sorry to correct you with facts: They are totally different tools.
People who have both will know it. But maybe you can drop the "thinking" and take a look at both tools. Maybe you can admit, that these are not identical tools.










If you can't spot the difference, I guess others will be able to spot them.









MDPC top, Han-Long bottom.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dualbrain*


Sorry to correct you with facts: They are totally different tools.
People who have both will know it. But maybe you can drop the "thinking" and take a look at both tools. Maybe you can admit, that these are not identical tools.










If you can't spot the difference, I guess others will be able to spot them.









MDPC top, Han-Long bottom.


Same outcome = Same tool. I don't care if they are exactly alike or not. Yeah I can see the difference in the jaws but any tool used improperly will give you a shoddy result. I've been around tools all my life since I was a baby and was taught how to use them and how to treat them with respect. Sorry I guess I should have just said that as long as the operator takes the time to learn how to use his equipment rather than taking the "close enough for government..." approach it doesn't matter.

Also the cost for that tool from GERMANY makes it prohibitive unless you live in Europe. Thanks for educating me about them not being the exact same tool though. I stand corrected.









Oh and btw if you were to pull both sets of bits and tried to install them into the opposite's jaws you would probably find they would fit without issue.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dualbrain

First it's "they ARE the same tool", then it turns to "same outcome = same tool" and transforms into "I don't care if they are exactly alike or not". Pretty exhausting if base definitions change posting by posting.

The jaws are also not interchangeable between both tools, as you just assumed again. Again: 100% guaranteed, because I have both tools.

But you might find another argument which corrects my fact-based correction. Therefore I will not continue to discuss.







Thanks a lot for reading.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I love his stuff and will never bad mouth him but c'mon bruh he's not the only retailer on the planet for tools.







lol


That's him posting, FWIW









Thank goodness I can avoid this discussion since I don't crimp


----------



## TFB

For you guys making your own cables (not just the sleeving), I'm going to be doing a SATA power cable for my HX750. I have a few questions for you before I start ordering parts.

My whole goal is to have just one power line for all of my SATA devices since it is neater that way and I could custom space them instead of having bows and such.

1. Is there a connector limit? For example, the case I ordered has 5 HDD bays and 5 Optical Drive bays. Now, I'm never going to fill all of them up. As of right now, I have 1 DVD-rom burner and two hard drives planned. In the future, I might add a blu-ray player and an SSD (or two!) So at most, it would be 6 devices. I would like to put a few extra connections on so I don't need to go through all of this when I add another device.

2. I realize I'll have to buy a crimper and some pins (as well as 18AWG multistrand). Obviously there aren't pins on the SATA cable itself but since it's a modular PSU, I'll need the cable to PSU connection pins. What kind of pins do they use in that? Are they your standard ATX/PCI-e pins? I haven't actually pulled any pins on it yet but I assume the cable side are male?

3. Do you guys tin your leads? I usually tin my wires because most of my soldering is done on boat electronics and I have to deal with saltwater vapor which oxidizes copper very quickly. I don't see my computer being in that harsh of an environment but if it's standard practice, I'll do it.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


That's him posting, FWIW









Thank goodness I can avoid this discussion since I don't crimp










>.< lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


That's him posting, FWIW









Thank goodness I can avoid this discussion since I don't crimp










Kinda wished I could've.









But crimping is fun. If you ever have the chance to do it I recommend it. Not because of the task but because when you've got the hang of it the feeling you get from accomplishing the task is quite nice.









@dual brain... next time I want to express something in words I'm gonna PM you so I can get it right the 1st time instead of getting into a minor pissing contest over such a minor issue. You've got enough brains to go round so thanks for that.









~Ceadder


----------



## SmasherBasher

That's funny....all my crimps look like the one on the left. Looks like the tool on the bottom in the other pic just isn't ratcheted all the way down. It took me a good run of 25-30 pins to get it right.You have to know where to place the pin in the tool to get it right. If not, you're guaranteed to screw it up. To drive this point home, I will strip and pin some wire after work with my "sub par" crimping tool.
Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dualbrain*


And I referred to the crimping tool too









The crimping tool is 100% *not *the same. The people who had the frozen / PPCS (both made by Han-Long) before and switched to this one know it exactly.

A car has 4 wheels, but that doesn't mean all cars are the same. A crimping tool has two handles and a crimping-bracket, but that doesn't mean they are doing the same crimp. The crimping result is different: "B" has overlapped wings, "A" has bite-and-twirl-into-insulation crimps (as a good crimp should be).

Funny thing that so many people in forums "think" and confidently speak about things, which they don't know, because they never had it. The ones that know, will read it and smile. No offense, just what I see every day.

But as pictures might help, here is MDPC bite-and-twirl-on the inside-of-the-insulation-crimp on the left, (center is an example of short-wing-crimp-terminals), and Han-Long overlap-only-crimp on the right. Picture courtesy by Howard:










This should explain the differences. To believe something is different than knowing facts.



Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TFB*


For you guys making your own cables (not just the sleeving), I'm going to be doing a SATA power cable for my HX750. I have a few questions for you before I start ordering parts.

My whole goal is to have just one power line for all of my SATA devices since it is neater that way and I could custom space them instead of having bows and such.

1. Is there a connector limit? For example, the case I ordered has 5 HDD bays and 5 Optical Drive bays. Now, I'm never going to fill all of them up. As of right now, I have 1 DVD-rom burner and two hard drives planned. In the future, I might add a blu-ray player and an SSD (or two!) So at most, it would be 6 devices. I would like to put a few extra connections on so I don't need to go through all of this when I add another device.


You tend to run into problems with more than 3 or 4 hard drives on the same cable as they might not all spin up properly at bootup due to the load demand. Some PSU's can handle more, but there is no guarantee. My advice for your setup would be one cable for the hard drives and another for the optical drives.


----------



## TFB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


You tend to run into problems with more than 3 or 4 hard drives on the same cable as they might not all spin up properly at bootup due to the load demand. Some PSU's can handle more, but there is no guarantee. My advice for your setup would be one cable for the hard drives and another for the optical drives.


That is what I was afraid of







I guess I'll have to build two custom lines then.


----------



## PapaSmurf

If this is for your Centurion 5 it will work out fine. That's the way I set mine up when I was using one. They are nice cases, but the cable management is a real pain.


----------



## SmasherBasher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


If this is for your Centurion 5 it will work out fine. That's the way I set mine up when I was using one. They are nice cases, but the cable management is a real pain.


Looks like he's in the right place then









Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


You tend to run into problems with more than 3 or 4 hard drives on the same cable as they might not all spin up properly at bootup due to the load demand. Some PSU's can handle more, but there is no guarantee. My advice for your setup would be one cable for the hard drives and another for the optical drives.


This got me thinking. I have a HD, SSD, and a fan controller with 6 fans connected to it all on one cable with extensions. Is that fine?


----------



## TFB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


If this is for your Centurion 5 it will work out fine. That's the way I set mine up when I was using one. They are nice cases, but the cable management is a real pain.


I have a CM Sniper Black coming on Monday.


----------



## Zeke311

@MIJNWRAAK! Shut up! Let him figure it out! He still wont anyway!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12535925*
> This got me thinking. I have a HD, SSD, and a fan controller with 6 fans connected to it all on one cable with extensions. Is that fine?


You normally notice a problem with a cold boot. Not all of the drives will spin up right away and then wouldn't show up in Windows, or if it's the OS drive that doesn't spin up Windows won't start at all. If you aren't having a problem then you are probably okay.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TFB;12535992*
> I have a CM Sniper Black coming on Monday.


In that case two separate cables would be better anyway since the hard drives are rotated 90* from the optical bays.


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12536552*
> You normally notice a problem with a cold boot. Not all of the drives will spin up right away and then wouldn't show up in Windows, or if it's the OS drive that doesn't spin up Windows won't start at all. If you aren't having a problem then you are probably okay.
> 
> In that case two separate cables would be better anyway since the hard drives are rotated 90* from the optical bays.


^ I second this. Don't Link multiple Drives through one cable


----------



## TFB

Well I guess I'm stuck with two lines. I'm still going to need to make custom lines I think. The spacing on these are, well, stock. I understand they do it so they will work in any case but that doesn't work for me.


----------



## PapaSmurf

I've customized my SATA power cables on a lot of drives. I just re-used some EZ-Crimp Connectors from old PSU's or ordered some from places like FrozenCPU.


----------



## OolerTheInventor

Guys I have a quick question for you. I recently had bookmarked some websites to get paracord from for my sleeving project. Unfortunately my laptop crashed and BSOD every time I loaded Windows. I've got the laptop back up, but I can't find those websites again.

Does anyone have some links for some cheap blue paracord and white paracord? Please PM me or toss it into my build log so I can find somewhere to purchase them again. I'm in America so please no overseas stuff, I hate overseas shipping costs and I'm trying to do this on the cheap.


----------



## SmasherBasher

Here's a quick crimp I just got done doing with my inferior crimping tool from Frozen CPU

*Crimpers*









*Wire*









*Stripped*









*Pin in place*









*Done*


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OolerTheInventor;12537468*
> Guys I have a quick question for you. I recently had bookmarked some websites to get paracord from for my sleeving project. Unfortunately my laptop crashed and BSOD every time I loaded Windows. I've got the laptop back up, but I can't find those websites again.
> 
> Does anyone have some links for some cheap blue paracord and white paracord? Please PM me or toss it into my build log so I can find somewhere to purchase them again. I'm in America so please no overseas stuff, I hate overseas shipping costs and I'm trying to do this on the cheap.


Look up Rothco on Google. It took me 3 secs of a lambs tail to get it. It's made in the US and Rothco is a US supplier. Hope this helped. Though you should probably get MDPC-x. I won't hold it agin ya if you don't.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## OolerTheInventor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12537538*
> Look up Rothco on Google. It took me 3 secs of a lambs tail to get it. It's made in the US and Rothco is a US supplier. Hope this helped. Though you should probably get MDPC-x. I won't hold it agin ya if you don't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Yeah I was looking at that stuff.... over $60 for the length of the stuff I would need from there..... $16 for the length of paracord..... I'm a cheapo man. The paracord will suffice on my budget. Once I get my degree out of the way and start my real career I can afford the good stuff


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OolerTheInventor;12537468*
> Guys I have a quick question for you. I recently had bookmarked some websites to get paracord from for my sleeving project. Unfortunately my laptop crashed and BSOD every time I loaded Windows. I've got the laptop back up, but I can't find those websites again.
> 
> Does anyone have some links for some cheap blue paracord and white paracord? Please PM me or toss it into my build log so I can find somewhere to purchase them again. I'm in America so please no overseas stuff, I hate overseas shipping costs and I'm trying to do this on the cheap.


Go to the Paracord thread here at OCN. They have some of the sources listed and can probably supply more.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12536552*
> You normally notice a problem with a cold boot. Not all of the drives will spin up right away and then wouldn't show up in Windows, or if it's the OS drive that doesn't spin up Windows won't start at all. If you aren't having a problem then you are probably okay.


Its a good thing my SSD drive is my OS drive.







Anyway I haven't notice a problem so I hope I am Okay. Oh and thanks for the response!


----------



## PapaSmurf

No problem. I think we have each other on speed dial these days.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;12537533*
> *Done*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/IMG]


To be fair, it looks more like the one in the middle.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MijnWraak;12538036*
> To be fair, it looks more like the one in the middle.


To be fair I think that his took needs to have the ratchet dialed back a tad. Since his insulation crimp hasn't had enough pressure to finish it. That's all that is. Just a minor adjustment and it would look pretty identical to the one on the left minus the sloppy strip job of course.







lol

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## SmasherBasher

Sloppy strip job?








Edit - Oh you mean the yellow wires lol.


----------



## phaseshift

question for sata connectors, is it okay for me to just remove all the other connectors except one(the end) and wrap black electrical tape around the rest and sleeve it?


----------



## SmasherBasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phaseshift;12538271*
> question for sata connectors, is it okay for me to just remove all the other connectors except one(the end) and wrap black electrical tape around the rest and sleeve it?


Yep. Perfectly fine.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phaseshift;12538271*
> question for sata connectors, is it okay for me to just remove all the other connectors except one(the end) and wrap black electrical tape around the rest and sleeve it?


Yeppers that would work quite well.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;12532160*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guys I was talking about the crimping tool...... it's the same as the one Nils has.


My bad








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12532082*
> Am I missing something?
> 
> I see no pics Kamui.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need cable prono.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :yessir:
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


My pics were on the latter page. I didn't want to quote them again...someone's 56k connection would crap itself out.


----------



## Ceadderman

Now that we have a break in the action I thought I would share some more pics.






















































Some of that cable pron to get y'all through the night.









*Roll me roll me roll me rooooooll...*
_Get away I gotta gettaway, get away I gotta get away_
*Everything will be too much; an I'm thinkiiiin, while I'm thinkiiiin...*









This my friends is MDPC and just some of the pics that I must send to Nils.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Dualbrain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;12537533*
> Here's a quick crimp I just got done doing with my inferior crimping tool from Frozen CPU
> 
> *Done*











As anyone can see:

With your crimping-tool, the only physical connection which holds the crimp-terminal to the wire, is the part on the bare wire. There the little wings of the terminal are "overlapped", but not even twirled, on the bare wire strands. This could even be achieved with a normal plier.

The longer wings which should go into the insultation and twirl on the inside of it (non visible), are not supporting the hold of crimp-terminal and wire, because they are simply sitting "around" the wire. It is like the ring on a finger, you can simply pull it off.
Conclusion:
Only the small section on the bare-wire-strands holds the crimp to the wire (but just overlapped, so a 1 dimensional force instead a 2 dimensional force). This is a very unstable hold and the pin gets off the wire much easier, when you pull on the cable (if the wire is inside the connector).

You could have used a simple plier and won't have needed a crimping tool to achieve such a crimp-result. The rear-wings of the crimp-terminal are also too short for the cable size in use, but that doesn't matter, because if they were longer, they would simply overlap with this tool









Happy modding everyone and hopefully logical explanations / break-downs of situations find some hearing here at OCN, because "just bashing and thinking but not knowing" is always a huge waste of time and confuses unbiased people.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dualbrain;12541438*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As anyone can see:
> 
> With your crimping-tool, the only physical connection which holds the crimp-terminal to the wire, is the part on the bare wire. There the little wings of the terminal are "overlapped", but not even twirled, on the bare wire strands. This could even be achieved with a normal plier.
> 
> The longer wings which should go into the insultation and twirl on the inside of it (non visible), are not supporting the hold of crimp-terminal and wire, because they are simply sitting "around" the wire. It is like the ring on a finger, you can simply pull it off.
> Conclusion:
> Only the small section on the bare-wire-strands holds the crimp to the wire (but just overlapped, so a 1 dimensional force instead a 2 dimensional force). This is a very unstable hold and the pin gets off the wire much easier, when you pull on the cable (if the wire is inside the connector).
> 
> You could have used a simple plier and won't have needed a crimping tool to achieve such a crimp-result. The rear-wings of the crimp-terminal are also too short for the cable size in use, but that doesn't matter, because if they were longer, they would simply overlap with this tool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy modding everyone and hopefully logical explanations / break-downs of situations find some hearing here at OCN, because "just bashing and thinking but not knowing" is always a huge waste of time and confuses unbiased people.


Dude I keep telling you that it's how the tool is used. Try adjusting the tool and see what your result will be.

Also that's a standard pin. His tool is just not fully adjusted to complete the circuit. I have that same tool. But I guess I'll just have to dig up a piece of 18 guage to prove it to you.







lol

More often than not it's the operator and not the tool. You being a tool guy should know this.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Dualbrain

Caeddar, I understand you more than well. You might just don't know the background that HanLong changed its production style about 1.5 to 2 years ago, so they moved away from the "twirl" brackets, because of precision problems in the required manufacturing process. So they went the simple route and changed the brackets so they simply overlap the wings of the terminals, to still be able to manufacture them for 6 US-Dollars (I know the prices).

2 years ago, the HanLong crimpers were good (if you were lucky to get one which was precisely manufactured (50% to 60% chance). Until they changed to overlap. These crimpers you can adjust as much as you want - it will never twirl the wings anymore, because the brackets aren't made for it anymore.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dualbrain;12541524*
> Caeddar, I understand you more than well. You might just don't know the background that HanLong changed its production style about 1.5 to 2 years ago, so they moved away from the "twirl" brackets, because of precision problems in the required manufacturing process. So they went the simple route and changed the brackets so they simply overlap the wings of the terminals, to still be able to manufacture them for 6 US-Dollars (I know the prices).
> 
> 2 years ago, the HanLong crimpers were good (if you were lucky to get one which was precisely manufactured (50% to 60% chance). Until they changed to overlap. These crimpers you can adjust as much as you want - it will never twirl the wings anymore, because the brackets aren't made for it anymore.


Well I have to say that it's entirely possible I got one of the good ones. Cause I have to say this tool appropriately used and cared for should last me for a long time. Long enough to where my fingers have ceased to work.

Funny thing is when I got it, I immediately pulled it out of the package and gave it a go w/o cable or pin. Bugger this thing took some hand strength to operate. I immediately adjusted it to let some of the tension off. I think doing so allows for more pressure to be used on the overall crimp not just one side or the other. For me I dialed it back 2 clicks on the ratchet mechanism.

I cannot say with 100 percent certainty that all Han Loong crimpers are the same but my experience with the tool has been more than exceptional.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## SmasherBasher

How do you adjust them? I will retry this today after work and post new results.


----------



## ShortySmalls

ahh i came here to see some awsome sleaved rigs, and the last 5-6 pages is just people argueing about tools not being the same :-(


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls;12542957*
> ahh i came here to see some awsome sleaved rigs, and the last 5-6 pages is just people argueing about tools not being the same :-(


Meh...half of this thread is just conversation...just start at the beginning and work your way through only looking at the pics


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;12542895*
> How do you adjust them? I will retry this today after work and post new results.


On the left side of the tool where all the philips heads are, toward the top handle you'll see a cog. You remove the screw and ratchet til it hits the next valley allowing you to reinsert the screw and tighten it. If you take some 18ga and strip it you can check to see it the tool is getting the correct amount of pressure to crimp the insulation. Don't worry about the rest of the crimp as that will be applied reasonably well. Crimping the insulation is what gives your pin stability. If it doesn't work don't worry you have 5 valleys in the cog not including the one your tool originally came set up with.

Take your time don't be in a hurry and not every tool has the exact same action. It's a bit like Overclocking. What works for me the first time may not work for you. I'm actually in the next to the last firmest setting.

It's marked with (-)<

>(+) markings so you know which direction that you've got to go to apply or relieve tension. Now I'm not exactly sure how to relieve the spring tension other than to work the ratchet. It may be you need to use a flat blade to work the inner ratchet mechanism in the opposite direction. Which is another reason to go slow. You don't want to disable it trying to get the proper tension only to find out you were traveling the wrong direction.

Hope this helps.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## godofdeath

ZOMG ZOMG ZOMG AGAIN

new color
tit grey









http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve/sleeve-small-titanium-grey.htm
http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve/sleeve-sata-titanium-grey.htm

nils make us some new heatshrink please


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

That's such a sexy alternative to black IMO.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Nice. Who's going to be the first to try some.


----------



## SmasherBasher

*orders 1000 meters*


----------



## PapaSmurf

Sure you did. But in the of chance that you did I would be interested in buying 10 feet or so of it from you.


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

My 50 meters of red sleeving, 50 meters of black sleeving, 500 precut small heatshrink, TJ07 serptine grill and red/black sata sleeving should be coming any day now. But I think I'm going to end up selling the red sleeving :/. Going with the black after all.


----------



## MijnWraak

I kind of really want to do a titanium/VViolet build...


----------



## Ceadderman

I want that "Dragonblood-Red" Color-X
























Damn Nils anyway, I would have gone with that one over the shade I have. Not that it's bad but that new shade is ridunkulous.









Now I gotta get another 30 meters and have to resleeve all the Red on my system.









~Ceadder


----------



## SmasherBasher

I did not. But if nils would give me a bulk discount, which he won't, I would buy 1000 meters of every color to save people money on shipping.
Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Sue you did. But in the of chance that you did I would be interested in buying 10 feet or so of it from you.



Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Do you guys use lighters or a heat gun for shrinking?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*


Do you guys use lighters or a heat gun for shrinking?












I see all kinds of people using Heat Guns in YouTube walkthroughs but to be honest I don't like them because there is no way to direct the heat to just one segment of a 5 wire SATA power cable if you do not have the pins to replace the end for. I worry about overheating the surrounding cables and splitting the shrink as a result.

It's bad enough that I have to worry about that with a Bic but at least I'm in control of where I apply the heat.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*


Do you guys use lighters or a heat gun for shrinking?


I use a high powered blow dryer.


----------



## M0E

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I want that "Dragonblood-Red" Color-X
























Damn Nils anyway, I would have gone with that one over the shade I have. Not that it's bad but that new shade is ridunkulous.









Now I gotta get another 30 meters and have to resleeve all the Red on my system.









~Ceadder










Oh my! I have a bunch of red, but that is really the color I wanted. Going to have to place an order...


----------



## Ragsters

I still can't install my newly sleeved cables in my case because I am not completely finished. I have one black wire left on my 24pin and I ran out of black sleeving from MDPC. Does anyone have like 3ft of black sleeving they can send me in a regular envelope? I would really appreciate it. I'd even trade you for some white sleeving.


----------



## Ceadderman

Oh man Rags if I had it I would send it to you. Unfortunately what I have is spoken for with my ODD Sata power and GPU power cables.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Oh man Rags if I had it I would send it to you. Unfortunately what I have is spoken for with my ODD Sata power and GPU power cables.









~Ceadder










Thanks anyway! I had a guy tell me he would send me a few feet and it never showed up. I can't believe me cables have been sitting on my desk for so long. I would hate to have to order some just to finish one wire.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


Thanks anyway! I had a guy tell me he would send me a few feet and it never showed up. I can't believe me cables have been sitting on my desk for so long. I would hate to have to order some just to finish one wire.










You'll get it man. If it's any consolation I'm running my system w/o those power cables being sleeved yet. I have extra cables, so when I'm not being so lazy I'll be finishing it up.

Part of the hold up was not being confident that I could do a double ATX setup. It's one thing when you only have one housing to work with like the 24 and the 8 pin, it's another thing when you're working with a plug that goes into the PSU and a plug that goes into the GPU and ODD as well. Both ends are seen by everybody. I could get away with being a little short by using some big sleeve and cutting it to hide the imperfection and shrinking over that to lock it in. But we can't do that with peripheral cables.









Tell you what, I've done a test run on a Molex to Sata extension and am pleased with the result. So once I have my cables done, if I have extra I'll keep you in mind. I'll target Sunday as my deadline and let you know when I have a better idea if I'll have any. At least I have the pins to avoid a long term break in the action.









Too bad it's not Red that you need. I think I have enough of that I could spare.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


You'll get it man. If it's any consolation I'm running my system w/o those power cables being sleeved yet. I have extra cables, so when I'm not being so lazy I'll be finishing it up.


I got extra cables too.

Quote:



Part of the hold up was not being confident that I could do a double ATX setup. It's one thing when you only have one housing to work with like the 24 and the 8 pin, it's another thing when you're working with a plug that goes into the PSU and a plug that goes into the GPU and ODD as well. Both ends are seen by everybody. I could get away with being a little short by using some big sleeve and cutting it to hide the imperfection and shrinking over that to lock it in. But we can't do that with peripheral cables.:rolleyes


My case shows the cables going in to the PSU as well.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


I got extra cables too.

My case shows the cables going in to the PSU as well.


Well I believe that the comany that makes your PSU makes mine as well.









Just sayin that's why mine ain't done. Not all the way anyway.









~Ceadder


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;12570695*
> I did not. But if nils would give me a bulk discount, which he won't, I would buy 1000 meters of every color to save people money on shipping.
> 
> Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


"White SMALL-Sleeve Dumping-Pack: 100 meters of pure Sleeve. If you need lots of Sleeve for yourself or if you want to sell it in your local communities ... this is your solution!







"

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/family-packs/dumping-pack-sleeve-small-white.htm

bottom of page @ http://en.mdpc-x.com/specials.htm

Wish all the colors were there though.


----------



## radicalrev

so i just started learning how to sleeve so I am sorry if my question is very newbie.

I just wanna ask if you guys have any tips to removing the existing (stock) heatshrinks from the cables? My seasonic PSU cable's heatshrink is very adhesive on the cables.









Is it just me that find this the most time consuming part of sleeving? lol


----------



## Ragsters

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *radicalrev*   so i just started learning how to sleeve so I am sorry if my question is very newbie.

I just wanna ask if you guys have any tips to removing the existing (stock) heatshrinks from the cables? My seasonic PSU cable's heatshrink is very adhesive on the cables.









Is it just me that find this the most time consuming part of sleeving? lol  
Heat up the stock shrink with heatgun/blow dryer. Then use a razor blade to cut the shrink. I personally use a seam ripper which makes the job really easy.
  Amazon.com: Dritz 3-1/2 Inch Seam Ripper: Arts, Crafts & Sewing


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *radicalrev*


so i just started learning how to sleeve so I am sorry if my question is very newbie.

I just wanna ask if you guys have any tips to removing the existing (stock) heatshrinks from the cables? My seasonic PSU cable's heatshrink is very adhesive on the cables.









Is it just me that find this the most time consuming part of sleeving? lol


The method I use is to use an exacto knife to make a cut in the heatshrink, and after making a slice in the heatshrink (carefull to not cut the wire) heating it up slightly with a lighter and then peeling it off. The glue should release a tad easier and come off clean. Hope that helps.


----------



## radicalrev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


Heat up the stock shrink with heatgun/blow dryer. Then use a razor blade to cut the shrink. I personally use a seam ripper which makes the job really easy.
Amazon.com: Dritz 3-1/2 Inch Seam Ripper: Arts, Crafts & Sewing


Noted!!

Thanks for the tip there Ragsters.

I don't know if the seam ripper works in my case, because Seasonic M12II psu have crazy heatshrinks that comes with some type of extra liquid adhesive like glue or something. I have to scrape the glue off individual cables after ripping off the heatshrinks. My finger hurts after just 1 set of molex cables.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *radicalrev*


Noted!!

Thanks for the tip there Ragsters.

I don't know if the seam ripper works in my case, because Seasonic M12II psu have crazy heatshrinks that comes with some type of extra liquid adhesive like glue or something. I have to scrape the glue off individual cables after ripping off the heatshrinks. My finger hurts after just 1 set of molex cables.










Once heated slightly that glue should come right off, if not heat it up with the lighter a slight bit and then wait a couple seconds for it to cool slightly and rub it right off. Takes a little practice.


----------



## Ceadderman

Haha... wish I'dve thought of using a lighter or blow dryer to remove the pre-existing sleeving. I just used a pair of scissors and a box cutter replacement blade. Worked really well except for the glue. Wasn't as much of a chore as I expected it to be but it certainly would have been easier.









~Ceadder


----------



## radicalrev

wow thanks so much guys for the tips! I will definitely try it out again tomorrow.









+ rep for both of you!


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *radicalrev*


Noted!!

Thanks for the tip there Ragsters.

I don't know if the seam ripper works in my case, because Seasonic M12II psu have crazy heatshrinks that comes with some type of extra liquid adhesive like glue or something. I have to scrape the glue off individual cables after ripping off the heatshrinks. My finger hurts after just 1 set of molex cables.










That is the reason for heating it up first. My Seasonic PSU has adhesive as well and once the shrink is heated the seam ripper cuts it out like butter.


----------



## audioxbliss

Just thought I'd share a reason to get MDPC:


----------



## runeazn

hmm iam gonna get paracord 1000Feet for ubercheap prices FTW!

how many feet do you need for a 1.2KW PSU?
and please exxagarate since paracord is cheap








ill buy the 100ft ones cuz 1000feet is overkill rofl, sleeve every cable in house XD

and i got a okay for sleeving my PSU from Coolermaster without losing my warranty wohoo!

and cheap quality heatshrink in EU
or barry from furryletters, would shipping be cheap







?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *runeazn;12586381*
> hmm iam gonna get paracord 1000Feet for ubercheap prices FTW!
> 
> how many feet do you need for a 1.2KW PSU?
> and please exxagarate since paracord is cheap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ill buy the 100ft ones cuz 1000feet is overkill rofl, sleeve every cable in house XD
> 
> and i got a okay for sleeving my PSU from Coolermaster without losing my warranty wohoo!
> 
> and cheap quality heatshrink in EU
> or barry from furryletters, would shipping be cheap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


Your best bet is to look up the specs to your psu and add the length of each single wire (for example an 6pin cord will have 6 wires at 12in each so 12in x 6 cords = 72in) And then add them all up and add some extra just in case =)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;12587149*
> Your best bet is to look up the specs to your psu and add the length of each single wire (for example an 6pin cord will have 6 wires at 12in each so 12in x 6 cords = 72in) And then add them all up and add some extra just in case =)


Ummm I do believe the cables for that PSU are 20 inches in length roughly.(x6 per cable)

Then PCI-e Cables are also roughly 20 inches. SATA Power Cable is Approximately 30 inches as well.(x5 per cable)

I know this cause I have the 500w version of that PSU. Though am missing a couple of my cables since I used them for other systems and scavenged for some parts.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## runeazn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12587302*
> Ummm I do believe the cables for that PSU are 20 inches in length roughly.(x6 per cable)
> 
> Then PCI-e Cables are also roughly 20 inches. SATA Power Cable is Approximately 30 inches as well.(x5 per cable)
> 
> I know this cause I have the 500w version of that PSU. Though am missing a couple of my cables since I used them for other systems and scavenged for some parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


around how many feets







?

if you guys dont know ill buy 200feet..

is that enough?
or should i need 300feet ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *runeazn;12596222*
> around how many feets
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> if you guys dont know ill buy 200feet..
> 
> is that enough?
> or should i need 300feet ?


Get out your calculator and do the math. And don't forget to measure your fans and I/O cables as well.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## runeazn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12596339*
> Get out your calculator and do the math. And don't forget to measure your fans and I/O cables as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


i am asking a rough estimate..
so how about you guys..
how much do you need estimated roughly?
and i cant measure it while its in my system rofl.
edit:
i calced 2850 inch.
soo 300 feet..b theoritically 237feet but they sell in 100Ft

how much heatshrink?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *runeazn;12596348*
> i am asking a rough estimate..
> so how about you guys..
> how much do you need estimated roughly?
> and i cant measure it while its in my system rofl.


Go back to my page where I tell you the lengths of each lead. i.e. 24 pin/8 pin and peripherals. Take that information and calculate it for the amount of strands. On the 24 pin it's 23 strands at 22" per sleeve (23*22=X).

Only the PCI cable on the box is longer and by such a minor amount. (8*22=).

You should have more than enough unused cables in your bag to measure and then once you get the total number apply that to feet(X/12=Y).

Don't forget your I/O and fan cables. Cause I know you'll want to do those to make them match your work.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## runeazn

i ninja'd you









btw this is a non modular PSU..

soo how much heatshrink for 237feet of sleeving.

amount of cablex X "X"= "Y"
"Y"= amount of heatshrink

so how much heatshrink per cable
so how much "X" per cable?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *runeazn;12596497*
> i ninja'd you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw this is a non modular PSU..
> 
> soo how much heatshrink for 237feet of sleeving.


10% of the actual sleeving. MDCP recommends 1 meter per 10 meters of sleeve. So 24 ft of shrink should be enough.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## runeazn

ty.


----------



## RushN

Just ordered loads from MDPC, Ebay item's (For other computers), and many tools.

I plan to throw my computer on the wall, will be posting pics as I get them.

(edit, wanted to add more info)

Whenever I decide to plan on doing something with my computer, I always research before I buy/plan everything. I've read all pages before this, and wow, I am amazed. I've learned so much from all these post, and drooled over so many of them.

Ordered:

MDPC:
100 - White Pre-Cut MDPC 4:1 SMALL Heatshrink
200 - Black Pre-Cut MDPC 4:1 SMALL Heatshrink
50 - Cable management clips - Medium
10m - Sleeve SMALL - Red
10m - Sleeve SMALL - White
(I only trust MDPC heatshrink in my computer)

Ebay:
1/8 Braided Expandable Sleeving NEON PINK TECHFLEX 50ft
3/16" HeatShrink (2to1) RAYCHEM black 50 ft. (Used for other cables, sound, MIDI, others)
1/8 Braided Expandable Sleeving "CLEAN CUT" 300ft
1/8 Braided Expandable Sleeving White TECHFLEX 125'

I say I will be good with sleeves for about a week.


----------



## RushN

Just got another customer, ordered another 800ft black cleancut from furryletters. I'll have lots of pictures to post.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice can't wait to peep the work Rush...

Here be my badge of honor.


----------



## grassh0ppa

If you sleeve the entire length of the PSU cables (meaning the sleeve actually goes into the PSU) do you have to put heatshrink on both ends? or can it just kind of rest there?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa*


If you sleeve the entire length of the PSU cables (meaning the sleeve actually goes into the PSU) do you have to put heatshrink on both ends? or can it just kind of rest there?


I usually just use a zip-tie to bundle everything together.

Though generally heatshrink holds better.


----------



## RushN

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Nice can't wait to peep the work Rush...

Here be my badge of honor.



















Can't wait to see what he draw's on mine. I told him to draw something awesome, but looking at all the other orders, it's going to be hard not to be awesome from the start.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushN*


Can't wait to see what he draw's on mine. I told him to draw something awesome, but looking at all the other orders, it's going to be hard not to be awesome from the start.


Yeahup. It's nice to see such dedication from a biz owner, who loves to interact with his customers. Ain't it?









~Ceadder


----------



## RushN

Shipment one from furryletters came in, waiting on the other one. Will start sleeving customers psu with this. Can't wait for MDPC to arrive.


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot;12602764*
> I usually just use a zip-tie to bundle everything together.
> 
> Though generally heatshrink holds better.


great idea. Would Save you on the heatshrink too. Thanks. I would have just repped this message but I dont see it on your post lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;12610610*
> great idea. Would Save you on the heatshrink too. Thanks. I would have just repped this message but I dont see it on your post lol


Can't Rep mods. Keeps them honest.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## runeazn

How long does barry to respond to e-mail?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *runeazn*


How long does barry to respond to e-mail?


He normally replies within 24 hours. If it's been longer than that you might want to try again.


----------



## RushN

This is how I make sure the sleeve is fully stretched before I shrink it.










Anyone else use this method, or am I the only one?


----------



## Anarchy84

so i live in california and all of the sudeen for me to buy stuff from mdpc the shipping is 18 euro when last time i checked it was 9 euro, does anyone know why all of a sudden im level 3 world or what ever it is on that site


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushN;12613542*
> This is how I make sure the sleeve is fully stretched before I shrink it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone else use this method, or am I the only one?


Pretty sure others do that too. I just take the end of the sleeve right to the housing then I figure out where that point is prior to shrinking the sleeve to the pin. Once I'm sure that end is good and tight I drive the loose sleeve to the other end making sure it's tight but not so tight that it makes the other end slip and lock it down with the other piece of shrink.









I would do what you do if I had two clamps that didn't have grease on the jaws.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anarchy84;12613715*
> so i live in california and all of the sudeen for me to buy stuff from mdpc the shipping is 18 euro when last time i checked it was 9 euro, does anyone know why all of a sudden im level 3 world or what ever it is on that site


If your order is under €30(I think) that your shipping meets the €9.05 shipping. But when it's over that's when it gets more expensive. It doesn't have anything to do with West Coast shipments I'm pretty sure about that. Just depends on how much weight and cost is being shipped. Germany has a really tight taxation schedule where shipping is concerned.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anarchy84;12613715*
> so i live in california and all of the sudeen for me to buy stuff from mdpc the shipping is 18 euro when last time i checked it was 9 euro, does anyone know why all of a sudden im level 3 world or what ever it is on that site


depends on how much you order or the weight of it
if it goes above a certain amount the cost changes


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Can't Rep mods. Keeps them honest.









~Ceadder










Meh...there's ways around that

Code:


Code:


http://www.overclock.net/reputation.php?p= post number

Just use that string with the Post Number found in the # link beside the word permalink like so

Code:


Code:


http://www.overclock.net/12613848-post3744.html

So the number is 12613848 and you paste that in to the one above and hit enter and bam you can give rep to anyone









Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushN*


Shipment one from furryletters came in, waiting on the other one. Will start sleeving customers psu with this. Can't wait for MDPC to arrive.











Nice. Is that white and orange PET with Clean Cut? Did you get the 3:1 heat shrink tubing?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushN*


This is how I make sure the sleeve is fully stretched before I shrink it.

Anyone else use this method, or am I the only one?


Aren't you worried about smashing the wire with the clamps?


----------



## grazz1984

Is 3mm sleeving ok for the individual cables on power supply with 3.2mm heatshrink?


----------



## RushN

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX*


Nice. Is that white and orange PET with Clean Cut? Did you get the 3:1 heat shrink tubing?


It's actually pink from furryletters, the client wanted pink and didn't want to spend the money for MDPC materials, and the black is clean cut. I did get the 3:1, but I wont be using it for single wires, that's where the MDPC heatshrink comes in.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


Aren't you worried about smashing the wire with the clamps?


I've tried to smash the cable with the strongest clamp, doesn't do anything to the wire.


----------



## runeazn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12612794*
> He normally replies within 24 hours. If it's been longer than that you might want to try again.


it has been 48hours +

anyway to sleeve a PSU without those sleeving tools to take the cables out?
So is there any ghetto tools?


----------



## RushN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *runeazn;12623759*
> it has been 48hours +
> 
> anyway to sleeve a PSU without those sleeving tools to take the cables out?
> So is there any ghetto tools?


You can always use safety pins.


----------



## runeazn

i saw you could use staples for atx?
what about molex?
for sata and fans i can use thin screwdrivers right?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12621291*
> Aren't you worried about smashing the wire with the clamps?


They aren't that tight so no. It would take a heck of a lot more force than those little clamps would ever be able to generate to damage a wire.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *runeazn;12623759*
> it has been 48hours +
> 
> anyway to sleeve a PSU without those sleeving tools to take the cables out?
> So is there any ghetto tools?


See the first and tenth post of the thread for information on doing just that.


----------



## radicalrev

just got the MDPC white sleeves, but on black cables, it looks kinna silverish, and on yellow/red cables it looks whiter. Any tips on this? I already stretched the sleeves as much as possible and still no difference.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radicalrev;12626875*
> just got the MDPC white sleeves, but on black cables, it looks kinna silverish, and on yellow/red cables it looks whiter. Any tips on this? I already stretched the sleeves as much as possible and still no difference.


White electric tape. Its a pain but well worth it.


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984;12621699*
> Is 3mm sleeving ok for the individual cables on power supply with 3.2mm heatshrink?


That size is fine







, But you have to stretch the HS a bit.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12626893*
> White electric tape. Its a pain but well worth it.


Rattle Can them. You can generally get Testers(white is one of their signature colors) Spray Paint from a hobby store for pretty cheap. Easier to spray the cable than to wrap them one at a time with electrical tape.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## PapaSmurf

Or get a LOT of white heatshrink and heatshrink all of the wires before sleeving them. More expensive but an overall better look.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radicalrev;12626875*
> just got the MDPC white sleeves, but on black cables, it looks kinna silverish, and on yellow/red cables it looks whiter. Any tips on this? I already stretched the sleeves as much as possible and still no difference.


white wires will also suffice if you can get them


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12627849*
> Or get a LOT of white heatshrink and heatshrink all of the wires before sleeving them. More expensive but an overall better look.


And make the wire more difficult to work with at the same time.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## PapaSmurf

Not if you use the thin wall heatshrink. I've done it before.


----------



## Ceadderman

So have I.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## radicalrev

Thanks for the tips guys...

btw you guys think white + grey combo looks good together? Or white + black better?

Mobo is black, and my case is a Corsair 600T


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radicalrev;12636289*
> Thanks for the tips guys...
> 
> btw you guys think white + grey combo looks good together? Or white + black better?
> 
> Mobo is black, and my case is a Corsair 600T


Y not all three?









Black and white are great together. Add in a touch of gray and NOM NOM NOM NOM NOM *UUUUUUUURRRRRRRP*









The trick is to find that peaceful balance that makes it pop.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Soul.

Hey Guys,

I sleeved my system a while ago, but I haven't gotten around to taking pictures of it (so everything is a little dusty =/). I thought I'd share what I did, enjoy!


----------



## radicalrev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12636815*
> Y not all three?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Black and white are great together. Add in a touch of gray and NOM NOM NOM NOM NOM *UUUUUUUURRRRRRRP*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The trick is to find that peaceful balance that makes it pop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


thanks ceadder, i think i will go for the 3 color combo.









btw still deciding whether to buy white electrical tape or white heatshrinks.

electrical tape = 5 bucks for a roll = more work
heatshrink = 50 cents/meter = expensive but very easy to do


----------



## Kick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soul.;12637069*
> Hey Guys,
> 
> I sleeved my system a while ago, but I haven't gotten around to taking pictures of it (so everything is a little dusty =/). I thought I'd share what I did, enjoy!
> 
> *snip


KILL IT, KILL IT WITH FIRE!!

damn, that's dusty. But nontheless, nice sleeving work!


----------



## Soul.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kick;12638926*
> KILL IT, KILL IT WITH FIRE!!
> 
> damn, that's dusty. But nontheless, nice sleeving work!


Thanks! I'll have to give my case a good clean and maybe do a real photoshoot sometime.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radicalrev;12638865*
> thanks ceadder, i think i will go for the 3 color combo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw still deciding whether to buy white electrical tape or white heatshrinks.
> 
> electrical tape = 5 bucks for a roll = more work
> heatshrink = 50 cents/meter = expensive but very easy to do


Rattlecan my brotha.

*click me v*

*click me ^*

If you're around a bigger city than I am I guarantee there are Hobby shops that carry the stuff and for cheaper than you can get it directly from them. Don't spend upwards of 3 Euros per sleeve when you can buy a can of Testors and have it done lickety split. You'll have to let it dry. But it should be fine once it is. Just don't be all trigger happy with it and it will dry reasonably fast.









Save your shrink for the important stuff and your fingers the hassle and aggravation of wrapping tape around the wires. I did the tape thing with my red and it was a pain in the butt chore than I'd wished I'dve taped off the PSU and sprayed the wires. Especially the 22 gauge leads. Man those things are small.









~Ceadder:drinK:


----------



## radicalrev

Fine fine, let me try to find a hobby shop around town. It doesn't have to be the model/hobby spray paints right? If so I will just find a spray paint that has the fastest drying time possible.

Thanks for the advices so far bro


----------



## PapaSmurf

Wrong. If you just get regular spray paint it won't adhere to the plastic insulation on the wire and will probably either crack, chip, or peel off. You need special plastic spray paint which is where the model car paint like Testors comes in. You can also get special spray paint for plastic at most local auto parts stores, at least here in the USA.


----------



## knoxy_14

is there a rough estimate of how many feet of sleeving i need for a full psu?
i will be using para cord comes in 100'
and any idea about heatshrink i know its hard to judge on that since everyone uses different amount but on a larger scale any thought?
http://shop.vtarmynavy.com/parachute-cord-p1454.aspx


----------



## PapaSmurf

Measure each of the cable bundles, multiply that by the number of wires in each, add all of that together, then add 15 or 25% extra just to make sure you have enough. You'll need about 5/8" to 3/4" of heatshrink for each end of a sleeve so determine how many actual sleeves you will be using (some cables like molex and sata power cables will use multiple smaller sleeves per wire), multiply that by 1.5", then add 35 to 45% extra since you'll waste more heatshrink than you will sleeve.

Don't forget to add in your fan wires, front case switch and led cables, etc. if you intend to sleeve them as well.


----------



## SKl

People constantly ask how much sleeving they need lol.
I calculated to do an ax850 will use about 50m but with my case and fan wires it comes to about 80m with some spare







.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *radicalrev*


Fine fine, let me try to find a hobby shop around town. It doesn't have to be the model/hobby spray paints right? If so I will just find a spray paint that has the fastest drying time possible.

Thanks for the advices so far bro










 One can of Testors should be more than enough. I know that color works well because I use it and a flat white when I do military aircraft, which I haven't been able to do in some time. Not that it would've mattered since I needed black.







lol

But if you can't get Testors then look at a Home Depot or Lowe's to see if you can get a can of Rust-O-Leum Advanced Formula in White. I know for a fact that works on plastics because I used a can of Red for my thumblatch assemblies and it holds up really well. So if you can find a can of that in white it should work too. But it will be a couple bucks more than the Testors. But you get more than with the Testors. And ya never know it might lead to some more modding in the future.









~Ceadder


----------



## Arksniper

Been looking through a lot of the posts here and I had a few quick questions before I go any further on my sleeving research.

1.) I am looking for a red and black theme to go along with my case does furryletters carry red I looked through his e-bay site and didn't see any I just wanted a confirmation that he still only currently carries black clean cut.

2.) MDPC I know is British based do you have to pay for a currency conversion fee or anything special like that?

3.) What (if there are any) good US retailers that I can buy from instead of international?

4.) Is is relatively easy to mod cable length?

Thanks for any helpful input.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arksniper;12641900*
> Been looking through a lot of the posts here and I had a few quick questions before I go any further on my sleeving research.
> 
> 1.) I am looking for a red and black theme to go along with my case does furryletters carry red I looked through his e-bay site and didn't see any I just wanted a confirmation that he still only currently carries black clean cut.
> 
> 2.) MDPC I know is British based do you have to pay for a currency conversion fee or anything special like that?
> 
> 3.) What (if there are any) good US retailers that I can buy from instead of international?
> 
> 4.) Is is relatively easy to mod cable length?
> 
> Thanks for any helpful input.


1) Yes he does carry Red.

2)MDPC is based out of Germany not the UK. No coversion fee that I am aware of through paypal via my bank account. Just remember that the Euro is stronger than the Dollar and so you do pay more I think that it's > $1.50 per Euro but you can do the math by looking up the Currency Converter via Google.








3)None that I can think of honestly besides Furry.

4)Sure as long as you have a pin crimping tool and the pins and the correct ATX connectors.

C'mon in the water is fine.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arksniper;12641900*
> Been looking through a lot of the posts here and I had a few quick questions before I go any further on my sleeving research.
> 
> 1.) I am looking for a red and black theme to go along with my case does furryletters carry red I looked through his e-bay site and didn't see any I just wanted a confirmation that he still only currently carries black clean cut.
> 
> 2.) MDPC I know is British based do you have to pay for a currency conversion fee or anything special like that?
> 
> 3.) What (if there are any) good US retailers that I can buy from instead of international?
> 
> 4.) Is is relatively easy to mod cable length?
> 
> Thanks for any helpful input.


If you are too scared to do the work yourself, there are a couple of people here that sleeve power supplies and cables for money, i know Martin AKA crysis_gamer does this and he has done a nice job. if you scroll through and see his pictures I am pretty sure you wont be dissapointed.


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;12644670*
> If you are too scared to do the work yourself, there are a couple of people here that sleeve power supplies and cables for money, i know Martin AKA crysis_gamer does this and he has done a nice job. if you scroll through and see his pictures I am pretty sure you wont be dissapointed.


Is there anyone here in uk willing to sleeve my corsair hx650 psu im looking to sleeve cables in black and white, if there is can i have some prices please


----------



## grazz1984

Is there anyone here in uk willing to sleeve my corsair hx650 psu im looking to sleeve cables in black and white, if there is can i have some prices please.

Thanks


----------



## PSick

I'm trying to sleeve my XFX 650 watt XXX edition but my 24 pin atx and pcie cables won't come out no matter how hard I try. For some reason, the 8 pins come out really easy.


----------



## xP_0nex

Looking into sleeving my 3-wire fan wires and the small wires that connect to the motherboard like the power button wire, tiny speaker wire, etc. What should I use? I see kits that offer 1/8" and 1/4" etc.


----------



## teccboxx

I know mdpc has precut heat shrink tubing however I was wondering whats the tip or a decent DIY jig to cut heat shrink tubing the exact same size and straight each time. I have just been doing the simple ruler and cut technique but I still get some bad cuts. Been thinking about using a paper cutter. Anyone else have any tips or suggestions.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teccboxx;12647197*
> I know mdpc has precut heat shrink tubing however I was wondering whats the tip or a decent DIY jig to cut heat shrink tubing the exact same size and straight each time. I have just been doing the simple ruler and cut technique but I still get some bad cuts. Been thinking about using a paper cutter. Anyone else have any tips or suggestions.


I just marked out 15mm on the table with a mechanical pencil(thinnest marks possible) and then I would use a nice sharp pair of scissors. I have a nice Xacto paper cutter but didn't wish to dig it out just to cut shrink.

And the precut stuff is 3/4 of a meter. Whereas uncut is a full meter. Not saying don't get the precut, just saying to beware cause you're not getting as much and paying more.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Arksniper

@ Ceadderman and fshizl +repped for the useful info.

I am gonna keep the money here in the US lol and go with Furry since he has black and red my main colors for this build. Ill pick up a crimping tool some time this week I really wanna learn how do to this cause it just looks so much better than the black mesh crap that I have to cut off 1/2 the time. For colors do you think black with red heat-shrink and red with black heat-shrink would looks good?

One more question for a Corsair modular psu 850w and a few case cables do you think 100ft of each is enough or to much/little and how much heat-shrink?


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12647381*
> 
> And the precut stuff is 3/4 of a meter. Whereas uncut is a full meter. Not saying don't get the precut, just saying to beware cause you're not getting as much and paying more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I wasted nearly half of my uncut shrink on bad cuts, and couldnt use the parts that were bent from the packaging, so I'd say the convenience far outweighs the lesser amount.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arksniper;12648046*
> @ Ceadderman and fshizl +repped for the useful info.
> 
> I am gonna keep the money here in the US lol and go with Furry since he has black and red my main colors for this build. Ill pick up a crimping tool some time this week I really wanna learn how do to this cause it just looks so much better than the black mesh crap that I have to cut off 1/2 the time. For colors do you think black with red heat-shrink and red with black heat-shrink would looks good?
> 
> One more question for a Corsair modular psu 850w and a few case cables do you think 100ft of each is enough or to much/little and how much heat-shrink?


I'll let you be the judge







...














































I apologize for not having more light on the subject. I took those pics with my sig rig and webcam and my sig rig is the subject of those pics.









But if you want pics of something in particular lemme know an I'll make it happen.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Arksniper

<3 the pics ceadder. Now I just need the make my HAF 932 a HAF X with some paint good thing spring break is next week. About mow much rope did you use?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arksniper;12650306*
> <3 the pics ceadder. Now I just need the make my HAF 932 a HAF X with some paint good thing spring break is next week. About mow much rope did you use?


I used approximately 60 meters of MDPC.









The only non MDPC sleeving in my entire setup is the large Red shrink(can't get this color shrink from Nils) and the large sleeve material which I got from Performance-PCs.com, the sleeve is like the outer shell to a large polyfill rope. Similar to that of paracord. It just happened to be to correct shade of black and matched well with my look.

I also got the SATA sleeve from Nils and the Red SATA shrink from him too. But I had some Red SATA shrink on hand from PPCs and it's reasonably close to the same color shockingly enough.It's not the same but you couldn't tell at a distance even if you know what you're looking for.


















Just so you can see the back. The screws I got were of the Allen-key variety(make great thumbscrews) in the .25" 6-32 variety. The saddles are also from Nils which are single strand and 6 strand saddles. They fit REALLY well in between the MoBo tray and the door.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## windacks

specs : NZXT Phantom ATX Full Tower Case
NZXT Sleeved LED Kit - 200cm Length - Blue
Zalman CNPS10X Quiet CPU Cooler
Intel Core i7 2600K (4.6ghz)
SilverStone 850W ST85F-P Strider
Corsair Vengeance 8GB(2x 4GB) Dual Channel DDR3
Corsair Force Series 60GB 2.5' SSD
Seagate Barracuda 1TB HDD
Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD4-B3 Motherboard
ASUS GTX 580 DirectCU II


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *windacks*










specs : NZXT Phantom ATX Full Tower Case
NZXT Sleeved LED Kit - 200cm Length - Blue
Zalman CNPS10X Quiet CPU Cooler
Intel Core i7 2600K (4.6ghz)
SilverStone 850W ST85F-P Strider
Corsair Vengeance 8GB(2x 4GB) Dual Channel DDR3
Corsair Force Series 60GB 2.5' SSD
Seagate Barracuda 1TB HDD
Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD4-B3 Motherboard
ASUS GTX 580 DirectCU II


Hey bro you should put your system specs in your User CP(up in the header column) and this is the sleeving group, was there something you were needing to know? We'll help ya as much as we can but you have to ask the questions first.









~Ceadder


----------



## windacks

haha, I'm so sorry about that, thank you for telling me about the system spec thing, i have been trying to figure that out for hours!!!! i was getting annoyed having to include them in my posts!!!! Sorry about that Im really new.

I was wondering how sleeving works, Cable management is something that i have no problem with but i really dont know much about sleeving is it hard to do? I'm really trying to get the most aesthetically pleasing clean look for my PC as possible!

Thanks in advance


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *windacks*


haha, I'm so sorry about that, thank you for telling me about the system spec thing, i have been trying to figure that out for hours!!!! i was getting annoyed having to include them in my posts!!!! Sorry about that Im really new.

I was wondering how sleeving works, Cable management is something that i have no problem with but i really dont know much about sleeving is it hard to do? I'm really trying to get the most aesthetically pleasing clean look for my PC as possible!

Thanks in advance










It's not hard to do when you go into it prepared for minor wcs issues. Like slipped pins having to be replaced or extra ATX connectors for when you have no choice but to break the pin in the stock ATX connector.

I didn't give it enough thought before I started mine so my system ended up being down for a long time because I had a bunch of pins that needed replacement and had actually broken one in the stock 24pin connector. Completely sucked. I had a spare connector on hand but the shrink side of it was too small to run red shrink on the pins and I ended up replacing it with a Black connector. Looks much nicer than the UV Red connector. The thing to do is to have a fall back system(mine wasn't up to the task) JiC things go sideways, like they did for me.









Ah well it was a learning experience and I have plenty of pins on hand should I do anymore in the near future.









~Ceadder


----------



## RushN

Quote:



Originally Posted by *windacks*


specs : NZXT Phantom ATX Full Tower Case
NZXT Sleeved LED Kit - 200cm Length - Blue
Zalman CNPS10X Quiet CPU Cooler
Intel Core i7 2600K (4.6ghz)
SilverStone 850W ST85F-P Strider
Corsair Vengeance 8GB(2x 4GB) Dual Channel DDR3
Corsair Force Series 60GB 2.5' SSD
Seagate Barracuda 1TB HDD
Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD4-B3 Motherboard
ASUS GTX 580 DirectCU II


Also confused why he placed his sig rig and specs here. Do you want to know how much sleeving you want?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushN*


Also confused why he placed his sig rig and specs here. Do you want to know how much sleeving you want?


He's since fixed it.









~Ceadder


----------



## AusPC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


I wasted nearly half of my uncut shrink on bad cuts, and couldnt use the parts that were bent from the packaging, so I'd say the convenience far outweighs the lesser amount.


 ^ I second this, While it is possible to get a good cut from uncut shrink. The convenience of pre-cut Shrink is a much more viable option.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I'll let you be the judge







...










But if you want pics of something in particular lemme know an I'll make it happen.









~Ceadder










 Some very good precise cuts of Heatshrink you have there, Kudos


----------



## kcdakrt

I used pre-cut shrink i def think it's worth it


----------



## RushN

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


He's since fixed it.









~Ceadder










It seem'd like it posted it late, I posted that right when you replied.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mijason4*


^ I second this, While it is possible to get a good cut from uncut shrink. The convenience of pre-cut Shrink is a much more viable option.









Some very good precise cuts of Heatshrink you have there, Kudos










I agree that PreCut is the way to go, just thought I should point out the amount is less so that nobody whines about it later. Not that that would stop some people but I could just see it being a big issue with some.









And thanks for the vote of confidence. I'm probably going to redo a bunch of it because the I/Os' are too long IMHO, I coulda shaved a few mm from each one. The USB's and the Audio connections especially as well as the front I/O connections. A good bit of my 24 pin need to be redone because the shrink wouldn't fit into the UV Red housing so I had to trim it back in order to get the pins uniform to make a clean connection with the MoBo connection.

So I have another order in my cart. Pretty much all of it shrink. It's too bad I haveta pay 9.05 Euro shipping on a shrink order but that's where I'm at right now. Gotta pay for perfection I guess. Though I might get another couple of coils of sleeve to make it worthwhile.









Well anyway it's uniform but just not to my standard of uniformity.









~Ceadder


----------



## SKl

Ordering up 100m of jasons sleeve now







.


----------



## AusPC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKl*


Ordering up 100m of jasons sleeve now







.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12639913*
> Wrong. If you just get regular spray paint it won't adhere to the plastic insulation on the wire and will probably either crack, chip, or peel off. You need special plastic spray paint which is where the model car paint like Testors comes in. You can also get special spray paint for plastic at most local auto parts stores, at least here in the USA.


Damnit... was about to say 'nah it worked fine for me!' then realised the spray paint I had used on my wires was from a car store... I was impressed at how well it sticks to the wires. I could scratch at it and dig into the wire with my fingernail and the paint still didn't come off.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12659077*
> Damnit... was about to say 'nah it worked fine for me!' then realised the spray paint I had used on my wires was from a car store... I was impressed at how well it sticks to the wires. I could scratch at it and dig into the wire with my fingernail and the paint still didn't come off.


Where the cables harder to move around after getting spray paint on em?


----------



## runeazn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nafljhy;8377085*
> here is another project i did:
> the pcie connectors
> the SATA connectors
> the shortened molex connectors
> the 8pin EPS connector
> and of course the 24 pin atx connector
> and all of it zip tied and getting it ready to go.
> the molex extensions
> the 8pin extension
> the molex Y splitter.


i have the same calculator








Solar FTW








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarlordOne;8377153*
> Nice.
> 
> Funny as that's exactly what I've been recommending.
> 
> BTW, this is the best pin removal tool:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cost nothing and still not broken.


somebody mind to tell me the english name of it?
and where can i buy it, i dont have them sad huh







?

noooh double post >_>


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *runeazn*


somebody mind to tell me the english name of it?
and where can i buy it, i dont have them sad huh







?

noooh double post >_>


Saftey Pin =) And most stores should have them. And if you are going to use that method, might I suggest dulling the tips a little first.... for saftey reasons as well as it will help it not catch the plastic.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*


Where the cables harder to move around after getting spray paint on em?


Depending on the paint, the number of coats, and how heavy the coats are the cables will quite often be a bit stiffer, but not enough to be a problem. One does need to wait a day or two after painting them before sleeving them though to give the paint enough time to dry. Just because it feels dry to the touch doesn't mean it's cured.


----------



## M0E

Anyone have any ideas on Y split cable shrinking? Basically I have 2 options.

1)Sleeve two seperate PCI-e sets
2)Sleeve the Y split cable set for cleaner look


----------



## Ceadderman

If people want to potentially waste time on their sleeving project, by all means try to cheap it out with the safety pins and the staples.

If you want to save your finger tips a bit of soreness however get the pin tool for $10 from FrozenCPU or Performance-PCs. I can tell you for a fact that you'll get your tool in chop chop order and that it works great.




































Honestly this tool saved my bacon a number of times.









~Ceadder


----------



## knoxy_14

would 8mm 2:1 heat shrink be good for single sleeving? i would like to be able to have the heatshrink in the connector as well


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *knoxy_14*


would 8mm 2:1 heat shrink be good for single sleeving? i would like to be able to have the heatshrink in the connector as well


Yeah that's fine. You'll have to test a pin with it to see if you can shrink it to the pin tight enough for it to fit in the connector but 8mm 2:1 is fine.

~Ceadder


----------



## knoxy_14

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Yeah that's fine. You'll have to test a pin with it to see if you can shrink it to the pin tight enough for it to fit in the connector but 8mm 2:1 is fine.

~Ceadder










ya see thats what i was wondering cause im going to have to buy it online cause nowhere here sells heat shrink i need


----------



## RushMore1205

MDPC black sleeve and color-x ordered for Sexy Red Got wet

white and red ordered for my new htpc build man I can't wait


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcdakrt*










I used pre-cut shrink i def think it's worth it


Gorgeous.

I was planning a black and white rig with black and white sleeves but I think all white looks alot sharper


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12661702*
> Depending on the paint, the number of coats, and how heavy the coats are the cables will quite often be a bit stiffer, but not enough to be a problem. One does need to wait a day or two after painting them before sleeving them though to give the paint enough time to dry. Just because it feels dry to the touch doesn't mean it's cured.


Gotcha









Thanks


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knoxy_14;12662847*
> would 8mm 2:1 heat shrink be good for single sleeving? i would like to be able to have the heatshrink in the connector as well


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12662904*
> Yeah that's fine. You'll have to test a pin with it to see if you can shrink it to the pin tight enough for it to fit in the connector but 8mm 2:1 is fine.
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


No *8mm 2:1* Will not hold single sleeving tight enought and the sleeve will more than likely come off easily.

I would recommend 3.5mm to 6mm 3:1 or 4:1 ratio Shrink.

Cheers - Jason.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mijason4;12665631*
> No *8mm 2:1* Will not hold single sleeving tight enought and the sleeve will more than likely come off easily.
> 
> I would recommend 3.5mm to 6mm 3:1 or 4:1 ratio Shrink.
> 
> Cheers - Jason.


Ooooh thanks Mate, I had this niggling in the back of my brain but 2:1 sounded right. Glad you stepped in and corrected that. Hope nobody ran out and got 2:1 expecting perfection.









Checked out your Artisan page and have ta say you do a lovely job. I only hope that mine looks as good when I'm done with it, as I'd love to pass the service along to anyone in need of sleeving. I'm think I'm going to sleeve the 500w OCZ that I have layin around just for shiggles. Might start a sale thread on the premise of picking your own colors and I do the work.









Don't know yet if I will it's just niggling me and I'm tired of sitting around it's taxing on the nerves.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12665766*
> Ooooh thanks Mate, I had this niggling in the back of my brain but 2:1 sounded right. Glad you stepped in and corrected that. Hope nobody ran out and got 2:1 expecting perfection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Checked out your Artisan page and have ta say you do a lovely job. I only hope that mine looks as good when I'm done with it, as I'd love to pass the service along to anyone in need of sleeving. I'm think I'm going to sleeve the 500w OCZ that I have layin around just for shiggles. Might start a sale thread on the premise of picking your own colors and I do the work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't know yet if I will it's just niggling me and I'm tired of sitting around it's taxing on the nerves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


hey old chap did you order anything from mdpc yet? i have a massive order, with an extra stick of heatshrink if your still interested in that piece you needed?

let me know.


----------



## fshizl

heatshrink cutting???/

http://shop.osorail.com/product.sc?productId=278&categoryId=15

BOOM the solution to all of your worries... never again will you have an uneven cut.


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;12666081*
> heatshrink cutting???/
> 
> http://shop.osorail.com/product.sc?productId=278&categoryId=15
> 
> BOOM the solution to all of your worries... never again will you have an uneven cut.


The picture on the website is really small, So I can't see it clearly. Looks promising though


----------



## adamski

Dood Day,
An excellent post thanks very much for the information an option worth considerding on so many levels. I must point out that case is amazing an excellent example of what can be done.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mijason4;12666234*
> The picture on the website is really small, So I can't see it clearly. Looks promising though


It's probably about 10 to 12 inches square (app 25 to 30 cm), similar in size to a paper cutter. Complete overkill for that price. For most people it would be cheaper to just get the pre-cut shrink from MDPC-X instead.

Someone posted a small jig they made out of wood they used to make their heatshrink cuts uniform. I can't remember if it was in this thread or a build log, but I'll see if I can dig it up. IIRC, they used an exacto hobby knife to make the actual cuts.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;12666046*
> hey old chap did you order anything from mdpc yet? i have a massive order, with an extra stick of heatshrink if your still interested in that piece you needed?
> 
> let me know.


PM'ed. Thanks.









I think I'm diggin this outta storage...










it makes really clean cuts and I can get replacement blades for when they get dull.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12666313*
> It's probably about 10 to 12 inches square (app 25 to 30 cm), similar in size to a paper cutter. Complete overkill for that price. For most people it would be cheaper to just get the pre-cut shrink from MDPC-X instead.
> 
> Someone posted a small jig they made out of wood they used to make their heatshrink cuts uniform. I can't remember if it was in this thread or a build log, but I'll see if I can dig it up. IIRC, they used an exacto hobby knife to make the actual cuts.


Nothing better than precut


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mijason4;12666234*
> The picture on the website is really small, So I can't see it clearly. Looks promising though


here you go...










it uses a razor blade so the cuts are perfectly straight.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Found it. Lutro0 made it in his Katharos Project work log.










http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/1295/worklog001.jpg


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12666313*
> It's probably about 10 to 12 inches square (app 25 to 30 cm), similar in size to a paper cutter. Complete overkill for that price. For most people it would be cheaper to just get the pre-cut shrink from MDPC-X instead.
> 
> Someone posted a small jig they made out of wood they used to make their heatshrink cuts uniform. I can't remember if it was in this thread or a build log, but I'll see if I can dig it up. IIRC, they used an exacto hobby knife to make the actual cuts.


yeah oliver was the one who made the wooden jig. i bought that little chopper tool and i really didnt think it was a bad price. atleast not for a quality tool...if the cuts are straight every time, after a couple of meters of heatshrink cut down evenly i think that it pays itself off...


----------



## PapaSmurf

Found Oliver's version of it here.


----------



## godofdeath

ZOMG ZOMG ZOMG AGAINNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve/sleeve-sata-combat-green.htm
http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve/sleeve-small-combat-green.htm

another new sexy color
sadly no shrink again


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godofdeath;12676201*
> ZOMG ZOMG ZOMG AGAINNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN
> 
> http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve/sleeve-sata-combat-green.htm
> http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve/sleeve-small-combat-green.htm
> 
> another new sexy color
> sadly no shrink again


I can see the Storm Scout and Sniper crowd with their military themes going for this. I would probably use black shrink with it anyway.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12676357*
> I can see the Storm Scout and Sniper crowd with their military themes going for this. I would probably use black shrink with it anyway.


i somehow like having same shrink color with the sleeve


----------



## radicalrev

Anyone knows an easier way to put the sleeves on the cable other than the pinch & slide method?

Somehow my local supplier here sells a super tight sleeve and the diameter seems slightly smaller than my mdpc sleeves.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12676357*
> I can see the Storm Scout and Sniper crowd with their military themes going for this. I would probably use black shrink with it anyway.


Would look pretty sick with Black Slate and Grey sleeving with black shrink. If there was brown shrink that would have a pretty decent look to it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12678058*
> Would look pretty sick with Black Slate and Grey sleeving with black shrink. If there was brown shrink that would have a pretty decent look to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Military Combo <3


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mijason4;12678557*
> Military Combo <3


G.I. all the way. For you civillian types that is "Government Issue". I was hatched G.I.









Pops shook out his Sea Bag and low an behold there I was underneath the Pea Coat and on top of the shave kit.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radicalrev;12677340*
> Anyone knows an easier way to put the sleeves on the cable other than the pinch & slide method?
> 
> Somehow my local supplier here sells a super tight sleeve and the diameter seems slightly smaller than my mdpc sleeves.


The straw method should work.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radicalrev;12677340*
> Anyone knows an easier way to put the sleeves on the cable other than the pinch & slide method?
> 
> Somehow my local supplier here sells a super tight sleeve and the diameter seems slightly smaller than my mdpc sleeves.


if you tape up the connectors and make it smooth so they dont snag you can slide it through


----------



## SKl

Cant wait to get my sleeve







.

Just need to order my psu now lol.


----------



## Ragsters

Okay guys I am going to ask again. Can someone send me like a 26" strip of small black MDPC sleeving so I can finish my 24pin cable. You can send it in a regular envelope using a normal postage stamp. In return I can send you the same length in white or can even send you two 13" strips of black. I really sound pathetic but I have had my cables lying on my desk for about a month now.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


Okay guys I am going to ask again. Can someone send me like a 26" strip of small black MDPC sleeving so I can finish my 24pin cable. You can send it in a regular envelope using a normal postage stamp. In return I can send you the same length in white or can even send you two 13" strips of black. I really sound pathetic but I have had my cables lying on my desk for about a month now.


I beleive fshizl is making an order, you might want to ask him.


----------



## SKl

Ive found a small flat screwdriver works really well for removing the pins aswell.


----------



## Ragsters

I am kinda pissed off. I bought some extensions, for a future build, and just received my package from Koolertek. I look at the wires and it says that they are 20AWG. I was hoping that they would be 18AWG. Should I return them? How much does that even matter? I wanted to start sleeving them this weekend.


----------



## SmasherBasher

It doesn't matter at all really. just pull the sleeving a little tighter.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;12685928*
> It doesn't matter at all really. just pull the sleeving a little tighter.


It just sucks that the PSU cables are going to have different gauges than the extensions.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12685950*
> It just sucks that the PSU cables are going to have different gauges than the extensions.


arent the higher gauges (higher in number) mean that its thinner, so it might heat up more


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godofdeath;12686036*
> arent the higher gauges (higher in number) mean that its thinner, so it might heat up more


Yes.


----------



## HOTDOGS

I'm considering doing this for sure, just a curiosity but are there any Canadians out there willing to do this for me?


----------



## drka0tic

Hey guys...
I need to get some small black heatshrink to sleeve some fans and lighting this weekend. I have a microcenter near me but I wanted to confirm the ratio of the stuff they sell. They have them set up in rolls behind the customer service area with no identification whatsoever and the sales reps have no clue.
I think it's this stuff they sell:
http://www.microcenter.com/single_pr...uct_id=0247959

Can anyone confirm the ratio of this shrink for me?

Thx


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drka0tic*


Hey guys...
I need to get some small black heatshrink to sleeve some fans and lighting this weekend. I have a microcenter near me but I wanted to confirm the ratio of the stuff they sell. They have them set up in rolls behind the customer service area with no identification whatsoever and the sales reps have no clue.
I think it's this stuff they sell:
http://www.microcenter.com/search/se...x=0&submit.y=0

Can anyone confirm the ratio of this shrink for me?

Thx

Edit: weird, when you click the link it says no matched products. It looks they only carry it in select stores. Anyways, the shrink is made by NTE and it's just desrcibed by color and size.



Here is a link I found to list the catagory of heatshrink at microcenter.
http://www.microcenter.com/search/se...l?N=4294966902

If what you are buying is one of those, or you have a different link you can look at the Mfr Part #: right under the SKU. With that you can either google it and see another store that sells it and see if they list the ratio (I looked up a few that way)

Or you can dig through the datasheets on the Manu's website. And match the Mfr Part #: http://www.nteinc.com/landing_pages/hs_tubing.html

Hope that helps bud. =)


----------



## drka0tic

Thanks. I checked the manuf. site and it looks like its a 2:1 ratio. I don't think this is tight enough for single wire. Correct?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drka0tic*


Thanks. I checked the manuf. site and it looks like its a 2:1 ratio. I don't think this is tight enough for single wire. Correct?


2:1 Generally doesn't hug the sleeving well enough or shrink down to fit inside the connector. 3:1 thin walled would be your best bet. (I use it myself) Although 4:1 thin walled is the best. =) And stay away from adhesive lined. =X


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic;12692115*
> Thanks. I checked the manuf. site and it looks like its a 2:1 ratio. I don't think this is tight enough for single wire. Correct?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;12692211*
> 2:1 Generally doesn't hug the sleeving well enough or shrink down to fit inside the connector. 3:1 thin walled would be your best bet. (I use it myself) Although 4:1 thin walled is the best. =) And stay away from adhesive lined. =X


^ Yep 2:1 won't shrink tight enough.

@ Lutro0 , I think the ability to fit in the connector depends on the wall thickness and anything that adds to the wall thickness (adhesive,glue...) not the actual shrink ratio.

Cheers - Jason.


----------



## drka0tic

Yea, I noticed that too. I tried some crappy Radio Shack shrink and the damn thing did not want to go in.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mijason4;12698826*
> ^ Yep 2:1 won't shrink tight enough.
> 
> @ Lutro0 , I think the ability to fit in the connector depends on the wall thickness and anything that adds to the wall thickness (adhesive,glue...) not the actual shrink ratio.
> 
> Cheers - Jason.


Those are very much key factors, but shrinking 1/8 heatshrink in half (2:1 ratio) makes for a hard time sliding into the atx connector (not totally impossible mind you just a hard time of it) and not only because of the size, when the heathshrink "grabs" the sleeve tight it is much easier to place it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Man Corsair PCI-e cables are a PITA to sleeve. Gonna shut down now so I can put it in place.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gawdz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nafljhy*


let me be the first to add to this thread.


















[/img]


Did you sleeve this yourself or is it a PSU by them


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice... my setup looks >>>>> better with the sleeved PCI-e bits in place.









Last thing to do(for now) is the Optical power cable. Gonna sleeve in Red with black shrink soon as I get some. I've got the sleeve just need the shrink.









~Ceadder


----------



## AusPC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Man Corsair PCI-e cables are a PITA to sleeve. Gonna shut down now so I can put it in place.









~Ceadder










 Nice, Is that Clean Cut?

Cheers - Jason.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gawdz*


Did you sleeve this yourself or is it a PSU by them


 He most likely did it himself.

1) PSU companies do not single sleeve any PSU's.
2) The Sleeving Job is well









Cheers - Jason .


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mijason4*


Nice, Is that Clean Cut?

Cheers - Jason.


Nope it's MDPC. Only the Ferite Core shrink is off brand since Nils doesn't sell anything other than black in large shrink. It's rather large when you start too. I think it's .75" in diameter before applying heat.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *mijason4*


He most likely did it himself.

1) PSU companies do not single sleeve any PSU's.
2) The Sleeving Job is well









Cheers - Jason .


Yeah, pretty sure he did. And if I read you correctly...

agreed.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12702786*
> 
> Man Corsair PCI-e cables are a PITA to sleeve. Gonna shut down now so I can put it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Looks great! Good job


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12703953*
> Looks great! Good job


Thanks man. I thought I would have enough Black left over but it's only less than a foot otherwise I woulda PM'ed you soon as I got it done. Apologies.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12705171*
> Thanks man. I thought I would have enough Black left over but it's only less than a foot otherwise I woulda PM'ed you soon as I got it done. Apologies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Don't worry about it. I think fshizl is going to send me what I need.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12705224*
> Don't worry about it. I think fshizl is going to send me what I need.


Shiz is Epically Cool IMHO.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## aesthetics1

Just got my sleeve in for the first-time sleeving job.

Did my 8-pin extension and my Front I/O cables. Really happy with the look so far!

It's all MDPC


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aesthetics1;12707616*
> Just got my sleeve in for the first-time sleeving job.
> 
> Did my 8-pin extension and my Front I/O cables. Really happy with the look so far!
> 
> It's all MDPC


Looks great! One thing that I would try to do is find some black connectors. I just like the way black connectors look better but that's just my opinion. Regardless of the connectors you still did a good job sleeving.


----------



## aesthetics1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12707894*
> Looks great! One thing that I would try to do is find some black connectors. I just like the way black connectors look better but that's just my opinion. Regardless of the connectors you still did a good job sleeving.


I agree. Have to pick some up soon. Thanks for the feedback!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aesthetics1*


I agree. Have to pick some up soon. Thanks for the feedback!


You can get black connectors from Performance-PCs.com for about a dollar apiece. You did a really good job(love your I/O shrink







) with your stuff and for it being your first time you really can't tell. Sure looks better than what I did at first.









Has anyone besides me noticed that see through connectors don't have a big enough opening to properly accept a pin that has shrink past the knuckle? I was fighting that the whole time with the UV Red 24 pin I had on hand to replace the stock 20+4 pin and with this latest sleeving of the PCI-e cable at the 8 pin connector. I would get them situated the way that you would any other time but when inserting the pin back into it's slot noticed that the pin wouldn't seat. In fact I rolled the sleeve when I tried to seat the pin in the 8 pin on the left clip side of the connector. You can't see it but I know it's there. Good thing the cable is black.









Anyway those connectors they have at PPCs' are really good. their free sleeving sucks but what can you expect from a free service.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## fshizl

I have a rule I never break... LOL...

When ever I order from nils, I always order black sleeving and 5 meters of heatshrink extra... ALWAYS....










I will send it out on monday you two... rag's your sleeving and ceadder the heatshrink...

Now onto my sleeving work...

Here is the base. should be sleeved by the end of the night if all goes well and my hands take the pain lol.


----------



## AusPC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


I have a rule I never break... LOL...

When ever I order from nils, I always order black sleeving and 5 meters of heatshrink extra... ALWAYS....

IMG

I will send it out on monday you two... rag's your sleeving and ceadder the heatshrink...

Now onto my sleeving work...

Here is the base. should be sleeved by the end of the night if all goes well and my hands take the pain lol.

IMG


 Are those custom 18AWG cables??


----------



## fshizl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mijason4*


Are those custom 18AWG cables??










indeed sir







how i work my friend... lol


----------



## AusPC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


indeed sir







how i work my friend... lol


 I've been acrylic painting over the rainbow of PSU cables. You can get the colours to match the sleeve. But you won't get the ease of custom length cables









Cheers - Jason.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


I have a rule I never break... LOL...

When ever I order from nils, I always order black sleeving and 5 meters of heatshrink extra... ALWAYS....










I will send it out on monday you two... rag's your sleeving and ceadder the heatshrink...

Now onto my sleeving work...

Here is the base. should be sleeved by the end of the night if all goes well and my hands take the pain lol.











Yeah I need to start extending and shortening PSU cables. My 8 pin could've used another 3 inches in length. It fits but barely. I had to cinch up the saddles that I got from Nils to get it to look relaxed, the way my 24 pin set looks.

Love your 24" MDPC ad in the background. As they say product placement is everything in Advertisement. Would love to have MDPC blended into my Desktop cause I just cannot get enough of this stuff.









Check out my YouTube channel, I got a new Vid up on the main page. If you go to my list make sure to turn the sound off on Projeckt Darkside cause YouTube is stupid. I changed the audio track out and it works great on my main page but I cannot link to it or the fans are back. I need to turn down the mic on my Webcam.









I put that Vid together before my PCI-e cable was done so you won't see how beautiful it is til later on.









An thanks bro, much appreciated. Just noticed my Avvy on the Notebook monitor too.









~Ceadder


----------



## fshizl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Yeah I need to start extending and shortening PSU cables. My 8 pin could've used another 3 inches in length. It fits but barely. I had to cinch up the saddles that I got from Nils to get it to look relaxed, the way my 24 pin set looks.

Love your 24" MDPC ad in the background. As they say product placement is everything in Advertisement. Would love to have MDPC blended into my Desktop cause I just cannot get enough of this stuff.









Check out my YouTube channel, I got a new Vid up on the main page. If you go to my list make sure to turn the sound off on Projeckt Darkside cause YouTube is stupid. I changed the audio track out and it works great on my main page but I cannot link to it or the fans are back. I need to turn down the mic on my Webcam.









I put that Vid together before my PCI-e cable was done so you won't see how beautiful it is til later on.









An thanks bro, much appreciated. Just noticed my Avvy on the Notebook monitor too.









~Ceadder










LOl , the 40 inch ad?

but yeah, I saw your video liked the build man... I should have you and Ragster's stuff mailed out by monday...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;12713631*
> LOl , the 40 inch ad?
> 
> but yeah, I saw your video liked the build man... I should have you and Ragster's stuff mailed out by monday...










Well I knew it was bigger than a postage stamp.









Appreciate the feedback on my system. I really should do another update on my build log. But I've only got the PCI-e right now.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Martin S

Nice wallpaper Carlos


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;12713435*
> i will send it out on monday you two... Rag's your sleeving and ceadder the heatshrink...


----------



## Ragsters

I want to start sleeving my extensions this weekend and I had a question. How do I remove the male side of the connectors (8pin, 6pin and 24pin)?

Edit: NVM guys. I figured it out!


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12715376*
> I want to start sleeving my extensions this weekend and I had a question. How do I remove the male side of the connectors (8pin, 6pin and 24pin)?
> 
> Edit: NVM guys. I figured it out!


same thing







just wanna answer it anyway lol

anyone got any of the tube sleeving and heatshrink? i want to sleeve my sli bridge


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martin S;12714502*
> Nice wallpaper Carlos


LOL martin, Ill never take it off!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godofdeath;12717321*
> same thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just wanna answer it anyway lol
> 
> anyone got any of the tube sleeving and heatshrink? i want to sleeve my sli bridge


+2









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## fshizl

to remove the male side its the same as the regular female pin, they both have the wings that lock them in place... just get your pin remover and stick in there... lol


----------



## Kortwa

Funny that you have that same pic in your background too


----------



## grassh0ppa

will the coloured PSU cables bleed through mdpc-x white sleeving?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa*


will the coloured PSU cables bleed through mdpc-x white sleeving?


Yup. They'll give a slight hint of the color underneath. Could always use some







to blend it.
















j/k best thing to use is a can of flat white Testors which will camouflage it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kortwa

The color will effect the hue of light colored MDPC-X sleeving. You can either use while electrical tape to cover the wires or make your own connectors.


----------



## SHNS0

Hey guys, so I'm planning the sleeving of my cables and I have a few questions:
-My AX1200 came with black wires, how am I going to know which cable goes where after taking it out? Should I do the sleeving one by one?
-I started calculating how much sleeve I needed for a theoretical individual sleeving, and I stopped at the ATX cable... 14 meters?! Is that INSANE or am I just bad at maths?
- (a bit off topic) is there any way to make the cables shorter without soldering and stuff? I guess I need some crimping tool?
- I'm going to order from MDPC-X and try something a bit creative; how much normal cables can go into a single SATA sleeve? And in a single USB sleeve?


----------



## [email protected]

Does anyone know where i can find UV red sleeves that do GLOW red and not orange? Seems hard to find. Any ideas?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0;12729465*
> Hey guys, so I'm planning the sleeving of my cables and I have a few questions:
> -My AX1200 came with black wires, how am I going to know which cable goes where after taking it out? Should I do the sleeving one by one?
> -I started calculating how much sleeve I needed for a theoretical individual sleeving, and I stopped at the ATX cable... 14 meters?! Is that INSANE or am I just bad at maths?
> - (a bit off topic) is there any way to make the cables shorter without soldering and stuff? I guess I need some crimping tool?
> - I'm going to order from MDPC-X and try something a bit creative; how much normal cables can go into a single SATA sleeve? And in a single USB sleeve?


The way I do mine is I take them out singly, sleeve it and put it back. It's tedious but it saves a bit of time doing like everyone else who numbers all of them to the corresponding number on the connector. You can't lose them either way and get that dreaded *POOF* of smoke from your system when you fire it up. Either way you should be good,:mellosmi, well not with the *POOF* idea anyway.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0;12729465*
> Hey guys, so I'm planning the sleeving of my cables and I have a few questions:
> -My AX1200 came with black wires, how am I going to know which cable goes where after taking it out? Should I do the sleeving one by one?
> -I started calculating how much sleeve I needed for a theoretical individual sleeving, and I stopped at the ATX cable... 14 meters?! Is that INSANE or am I just bad at maths?
> - (a bit off topic) is there any way to make the cables shorter without soldering and stuff? I guess I need some crimping tool?
> - I'm going to order from MDPC-X and try something a bit creative; how much normal cables can go into a single SATA sleeve? And in a single USB sleeve?


14 meters... isnt bad at all.. MDPC stuff is 10 meters for 6 euros...

however I think you are short... I usually recommend about 200 feet per power supply depending on how much cables it has... and a 1200AX has a ton of cables... Id recommend like 50 meters.. which is 5 orders...

Seems like a lot. but its better to have extra than none... just ask ceadder.... LOL


----------



## fshizl

stupid double post...


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


14 meters... isnt bad at all.. MDPC stuff is 10 meters for 6 euros...

however I think you are short... I usually recommend about 200 feet per power supply depending on how much cables it has... and a 1200AX has a ton of cables... Id recommend like 50 meters.. which is 5 orders...

Seems like a lot. but its better to have extra than none... just ask ceadder.... LOL


I meant 14m just for the 24pin... I calculated that I need something like at least 60-65m only for my psu







O shi-


----------



## RushMore1205

no doubt MDPC is the best sleeving you can possibly buy, the colors are amazing, the sleeve is very tight.

DRAGON BLOOD LOOKS AMAZING AND WILL GO GREAT IN THE SEXY RED GOT WET build


----------



## fshizl

dragon blood or color-x?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;12729768*
> 14 meters... isnt bad at all.. MDPC stuff is 10 meters for 6 euros...
> 
> however I think you are short... I usually recommend about 200 feet per power supply depending on how much cables it has... and a 1200AX has a ton of cables... Id recommend like 50 meters.. which is 5 orders...
> 
> Seems like a lot. but its better to have extra than none... just ask ceadder.... LOL


I would suggest 70 meters. I had to make 2 orders to get that much for my HX 850w which has just as many cables as the AX 1200 and I had to use SATA sleeve to sleeve the 2 PCI power leads that are hidden. And after coming up short in shrink hafta say 1 extra shrink for ever 3 that is purchased. Had I done that, I would have been done now and not have been short. Thanks again to my hero Shiz... Hey man if you don't use that Dragon Blood I'ma come down there an kick ya in yor adz.







lol

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12734410*
> I would suggest 70 meters. I had to make 2 orders to get that much for my HX 850w which has just as many cables as the AX 1200 and I had to use SATA sleeve to sleeve the 2 PCI power leads that are hidden. And after coming up short in shrink hafta say 1 extra shrink for ever 3 that is purchased. Had I done that, I would have been done now and not have been short. Thanks again to my hero Shiz... Hey man if you don't use that Dragon Blood I'ma come down there an kick ya in yor adz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Plus if you have any extra you can probably sell it to someone here on OCN that needs a small amount to finish a rig or sleeve a few fans.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;12734307*
> dragon blood or color-x?


He says Dragon Blood in his post so I would assume that is what it is.


----------



## Ceadderman

My bad Shiz, I thought it was you that had the Blood.







lol

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Buska103

70 meters for a single HX Corsair PSU







When 10 meters costs approx. $10 USD?







$70 to sleeve a psu?









On side note, what other sleeving material is decent for the price? I am a noobie on a budget who wants to make his colorful computer wires a little bit more uniform









EDIT: OOOHHH, I get it, Furryletters is a seller on ebay! I'll check it out!


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;12734307*
> dragon blood or color-x?


arent they one in the same?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103;12734826*
> 70 meters for a single HX Corsair PSU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When 10 meters costs approx. $10 USD?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $70 to sleeve a psu?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On side note, what other sleeving material is decent for the price? I am a noobie on a budget who wants to make his colorful computer wires a little bit more uniform
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: OOOHHH, I get it, Furryletters is a seller on ebay! I'll check it out!


With the exception of his Clean Cut most of the rest of his sleeve isn't worth getting. The weave is so loose that you can see right through it (see the first post in this thread for a comparison of his regular sleeve and the better quality MDPC-X or Clean Cut Black). He does have some new stuff that is just coming out that is better, but it is only available in a limited amount of colors. See the Furry Letters Thread for more details. It's at the end of the thread.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103;12734826*
> 70 meters for a single HX Corsair PSU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When 10 meters costs approx. $10 USD?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $70 to sleeve a psu?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On side note, what other sleeving material is decent for the price? I am a noobie on a budget who wants to make his colorful computer wires a little bit more uniform
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: OOOHHH, I get it, Furryletters is a seller on ebay! I'll check it out!


You act like HX anything is a piece of obsolete hardware or Peashukicrapico.









On a budget? Buy one that's already done.









No in all seriousness, paracord is probably the cheapest. Unless you get cheapo branded sleeving from one of the etailers on the net.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103;12734826*
> 70 meters for a single HX Corsair PSU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When 10 meters costs approx. $10 USD?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $70 to sleeve a psu?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On side note, what other sleeving material is decent for the price? I am a noobie on a budget who wants to make his colorful computer wires a little bit more uniform
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: OOOHHH, I get it, Furryletters is a seller on ebay! I'll check it out!


I've easily spent $300 on MDPC sleeving, it's worth it for finishing off a build on a nice note.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;12735193*
> I've easily spent $300 on MDPC sleeving, it's worth it for finishing off a build on a nice note.


yea im just about hitting that spot too lol
and thats only for 1 machine


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godofdeath;12734843*
> arent they one in the same?


ahahah thannk you, they are the same, MDPC origianly called that sleeve dragon blood, and then decided to rename to color-x

but i like DRAGON BLOOD lol, sounds way better


----------



## RushMore1205

all that sleeving in the picture was 170$

30m black
30m red
30m color-x
30m white
5 meters of white SATA sleeve
2x packs of black shrink
2x packs of white shrink
.7 meters of white sata shrink

i have to say every dollar was worth it, i could not be happier

i will be posting comparison pictires to sleeve that is being sold on PPC and FCPU


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godofdeath;12735699*
> yea im just about hitting that spot too lol
> and thats only for 1 machine


Same haha


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;12735193*
> I've easily spent $300 on MDPC sleeving, it's worth it for finishing off a build on a nice note.


Grateful to not be single sleeving the entire cable if that's how much you guys have spent on it! I'm only doing the visible parts of my cables because the rest will be sleeved externally in copper tubes. So far I think I've spent maybe around $100?? Should do almost all of the cables that I'm using.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12735982*
> Grateful to not be single sleeving the entire cable if that's how much you guys have spent on it! I'm only doing the visible parts of my cables because the rest will be sleeved externally in copper tubes. So far I think I've spent maybe around $100?? Should do almost all of the cables that I'm using.


True that was always an option for me.

I thought I might as well fully sleeve the whole cable since I was doing part.

Nice idea with the copper tubing though since you can't see any of the cables.


----------



## Trooper1881

i have been playing around on a non existent budget. and i found that cat5 sheating is fun to work with just started playing around with it but i kinda like the look its obviously not pretty but its a interesting look.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12735729*
> ahahah thannk you, they are the same, MDPC origianly called that sleeve dragon blood, and then decided to rename to color-x
> 
> but i like DRAGON BLOOD lol, sounds way better


no it was actually called color-x first then and didn't have a picture, then got updated being called dragon blood or looks like dragon blood


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12735982*
> Grateful to not be single sleeving the entire cable if that's how much you guys have spent on it! I'm only doing the visible parts of my cables because the rest will be sleeved externally in copper tubes. So far I think I've spent maybe around $100?? Should do almost all of the cables that I'm using.


i would have less sleeving/wires to do if i bothered to shorten the cables but im just not the type plus i want to keep getting these psus and reuse them or something


----------



## fshizl

I had a post here how much Ive spent on MDPC... let me see if i can find it...


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;12736566*
> I had a post here how much Ive spent on MDPC... let me see if i can find it...


lol u did one build, now ur sleeving ur gfs and your new build i would say over 100 for sure


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godofdeath;12736606*
> lol u did one build, now ur sleeving ur gfs and your new build i would say over 100 for sure


My gf's alone was 240...

total is at 800 dollars... and i currently have another order in the cart ready thats sitting at 150 euros... LOL


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;12736675*
> My gf's alone was 240...


see over 100 lol


----------



## fshizl

little by little... re doing two or three heatshrinks...


----------



## Kortwa

I don't want to think of how much I have spend on MDPC-X >.> Its a labor of love.


----------



## Finny

Buy paracord... it is cheap as dirt and pretty darn nice...

I just did my CPU 8 pin... very time consuming but I like it so far.


----------



## hokeyplyr48

+1 to the paracord. Just did a whole PSU and a couple fans with Royal Blue and Black and I love it


----------



## Ruckol1

Where do you guys get your paracord from? I am thinking of buying a new PSU and sleeving it.


----------



## hokeyplyr48

I followed the thread here:
http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...-sleeving.html
gotta give credit where credit is due. He recommends this place, which is where I bought mine. I got royal blue and black, and the blue looks pretty good.

http://shop.vtarmynavy.com/parachute-cord-p1454.aspx


----------



## grassh0ppa

is this the same thing as paracord?

http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatalogSearchResultView?D=932123&Ntt=932123&catalogId=10051&langId=-15&storeId=10051&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntx=mode+matchall&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;12744252*
> is this the same thing as paracord?
> 
> http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatalogSearchResultView?D=932123&Ntt=932123&catalogId=10051&langId=-15&storeId=10051&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntx=mode+matchall&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber


Not even close. Paracord will have Paracord in it's name and/or description.


----------



## Finny

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180597586148&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_7012wt_1219

$5 for 50 feet in tons of colors = win.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Who else is totally loving the variety of colours in MDPC these days? Various shades of almost all the colours now







I've got my fingers crossed for some brown sleeve eventually!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12746313*
> Who else is totally loving the variety of colours in MDPC these days? Various shades of almost all the colours now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got my fingers crossed for some brown sleeve eventually!


Trust me, I've been in the computer world for awhile, and everything follows Moore's Law. Even cable sleeving.

5 Years ago, sleeving didn't even exist for the most part. PSU's came with 2 or 3 cables sleeved most of the time. And getting multiple colors was only available in bad neon colors on cheap and bad PSU's.

It's a grand world today.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot;12746361*
> Trust me, I've been in the computer world for awhile, and everything follows Moore's Law. Even cable sleeving.
> 
> 5 Years ago, sleeving didn't even exist for the most part. PSU's came with 2 or 3 cables sleeved most of the time. And getting multiple colors was only available in bad neon colors on cheap and bad PSU's.
> 
> It's a grand world today.


Indeed it is and we take it for granted sometimes


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12747357*
> Indeed it is and we take it for granted sometimes


I can't wait till I have the money. I'm going to re-cap my strider plus (replace the Teapo's with some Ruby's or NCC's) and then do some single-sleeving on some cables, but make sure my cables are all black anyways.

I'm working on a way to do fuzed cables like the standard corsair ribbon cables for my SATA connectors.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot;12747395*
> I can't wait till I have the money. I'm going to re-cap my strider plus (replace the Teapo's with some Ruby's or NCC's) and then do some single-sleeving on some cables, but make sure my cables are all black anyways.
> 
> I'm working on a way to do fuzed cables like the standard corsair ribbon cables for my SATA connectors.


It's lots of fun doing it eh?







I wish I could re-wire my psu with black cable and do all the crimping myself as well. One day when I have the time and money I will. I should be getting started sleeving my psu over the next few days though


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12747534*
> It's lots of fun doing it eh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish I could re-wire my psu with black cable and do all the crimping myself as well. One day when I have the time and money I will. I should be getting started sleeving my psu over the next few days though


Once you get into it, it's not really that hard.

My biggest time sink will be perfecting the fuzing method so I don't damage the wire and I still keep it flexible.


----------



## phaseshift

question, I just got two femal 24pin sockets for my psu. Can I just get a roll of copper cord or whatever it is lol and follow my old 24pin from my psu's number system? like 1 goes to 1, 2 goes to 2 etc..?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phaseshift;12747659*
> question, I just got two femal 24pin sockets for my psu. Can I just get a roll of copper cord or whatever it is lol and follow my old 24pin from my psu's number system? like 1 goes to 1, 2 goes to 2 etc..?


You don't want to get solid core wire, it's much harder to work with.

But yes you can.


----------



## fshizl

18 gauge stranded wire to work with any 24 pin cable.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12746313*
> Who else is totally loving the variety of colours in MDPC these days? Various shades of almost all the colours now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got my fingers crossed for some brown sleeve eventually!


still waiting/wanting on heatshrink more colors
though it is a delicate process to make this stuff


----------



## phaseshift

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot;12747684*
> You don't want to get solid core wire, it's much harder to work with.
> 
> But yes you can.


where can Iget these wires tatortot? can I get it at frys


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phaseshift;12747925*
> where can Iget these wires tatortot? can I get it at frys


Yeah, Fry's should have some black wire. Just make sure to get 18 or 16 AWG


----------



## M0E

Just placed an order for the dark red. I never did install the regular red I have because A)I wasnt sure I'd like it, and B)My PSU has in line caps I cant stand and cant cut out. Waiting on the Seasonic x1000 to launch before I sleeve I guess.

So basically I have 40m of Red and 10m of Sata Red. Might do a give away for someone here soon.


----------



## Ragsters

Anyone have red mdpc-x shrink I can buy from them?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Just took these today


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12749588*
> Just took these today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -img snip-


Awesome Photos!

And I suppose I will add one of my own. Finished up my fan controller.


----------



## Shane1244

Good lighting, VERY poor focus.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


Good lighting, VERY poor focus.


On mine or his? I'm not really too bothered if it's mine. I'm happy with how they turned out. Not easy focusing in low light. They look heaps better than I had expected


----------



## AusPC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


On mine or his? I'm not really too bothered if it's mine. I'm happy with how they turned out. Not easy focusing in low light. They look heaps better than I had expected










 @ Kirsty , Don't worry , Your pictures are great , Focus is fine










@ Lutro0 , Great sleeving mate, Your light box is awesome









Cheers - Jason.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mijason4*


@ Kirsty , Don't worry , Your pictures are great , Focus is fine









@ Lutro0 , Great sleeving mate, Your light box is awesome









Cheers - Jason.


2nded. The focus is just fine on both sets of pics imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ragsters

Can anyone recommend me a site, with links, to where I can get extensions to sleeve? I'm looking for 6pin, 8pin and 24pin.


----------



## PapaSmurf

http://www.svc.com/fan-cable-adapter.html


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12757615*
> http://www.svc.com/fan-cable-adapter.html


Thanks for that! I was wondering if you or anyone you knew purchased these cables? I want to make sure they are at least 18AWG. I have to buy a whole new set after wasting my money buying the 20AWG cables from Koolertek.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12757541*
> Can anyone recommend me a site, with links, to where I can get extensions to sleeve? I'm looking for 6pin, 8pin and 24pin.


The easiest way I found was to look for 24pin extensions in the length and wire size that you need (on ebay for cheapness), buy two of them. Then go onto frozencpu or such and buy the male and female connectors in what color you want and then use the cables from the 24pin to make your own extensions.

2x 24pin extensions can make:

2x 6pin gpu
1x 8pin cpu power
1x 24pin

or

2x 8pin gpu
1x 8pin cpu power
1x 24pin


----------



## PapaSmurf

They are more than likely OKGear and 20 Gauge. I don't have those specific ones, but the others I have picked up from them have all been OKGear and 20 Gauge. Sorry about that, but at least you can look for something besides OKGear.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;12758069*
> The easiest way I found was to look for 24pin extensions in the length and wire size that you need (on ebay for cheapness), buy two of them. Then go onto frozencpu or such and buy the male and female connectors in what color you want and then use the cables from the 24pin to make your own extensions.
> 
> 2x 24pin extensions can make:
> 
> 2x 6pin gpu
> 1x 8pin cpu power
> 1x 24pin
> 
> or
> 
> 2x 8pin gpu
> 1x 8pin cpu power
> 1x 24pin


That is a great idea! I recently bought a 24 pin extension and the wires AWG ranged from 20-16. Shouldn't they all be the same?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12758248*
> They are more than likely OKGear and 20 Gauge. I don't have those specific ones, but the others I have picked up from them have all been OKGear and 20 Gauge. Sorry about that, but at least you can look for something besides OKGear.


That's what I was afraid of. I was told that an extension with 20AWG wire should not be used with a system drawing more than 150W.


----------



## hokeyplyr48

Just do the math. You can find the Max amount of amps per gauge of wire. Then watts = volts * amps.

The math will tell you









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12758378*
> That is a great idea! I recently bought a 24 pin extension and the wires AWG ranged from 20-16. Shouldn't they all be the same?


You would think a standard would be nice, but ive seen extensions in that range, both smaller and larger. Just email either the company selling it or the ebay seller for that info to make sure.


----------



## Kortwa

Thought I would post my first sleeve I made/sleeved. Its a custom length 8 pin.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kortwa;12770321*
> Thought I would post my first sleeve I made/sleeved. Its a custom length 8 pin.


Looks great!


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kortwa;12770321*
> Thought I would post my first sleeve I made/sleeved. Its a custom length 8 pin.
> 
> IMG


Great job


----------



## mastical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kortwa;12770321*
> Thought I would post my first sleeve I made/sleeved. Its a custom length 8 pin.
> Snip


niceeeee.


----------



## grassh0ppa

What kind of paint would you use to paint PSU wires white? I'm getting some white sleeving for my build and don't want to see any colour bleeding.


----------



## RaCeR123

Want to share my sleeving job.
It's pretty crappy to be honest and I did have quite a bunch of problems but in the end it work out and I think it looks decent besides the heatshrink


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;12779421*
> What kind of paint would you use to paint PSU wires white? I'm getting some white sleeving for my build and don't want to see any colour bleeding.


I'm using this fabric & vynil spray paint by Rustoleum:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Rust-Oleum-11-oz-gloss-white-vinyl-and-fabric-paint?itemIdentifier=550002
I got a can of gloss black and gloss white and from Autozone. It seems to be working pretty good. Just have to make sure its completely dry before you sleeve.


----------



## fshizl




----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;12781505*


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;12779421*
> What kind of paint would you use to paint PSU wires white? I'm getting some white sleeving for my build and don't want to see any colour bleeding.


Testor's Model Spray paint works well. It's designed for plastic so it tends to stick to the insulation well. Put some Isopropyl Alcohol (NOT Rubbing Alcohol as that contains petroleum distillates or by-products that leave an oily residue) and wipe the wires down prior to painting them so the paint will properly adhere to the surface.


----------



## Ragsters

Thanks to fshizl I finally got my sleeved cables installed on my rig. Although I am extremely happy about my results, I am a little concerned about something. Sleeving my X-650 I found that the hardest cable to sleeve was the double wire with a little thin wire attached. Heating the shrink up on that double wire kinda got me nervous because the thin wire got very flexible, from the heat, and when I pushed the pin into the connector I really crinkled that wire bad. I straitened it out and finished. Apparently the small wire is for the fan so today the first thing I did was check if the fan was spinning after installing. I know the X-650 is supposed to be a silent PSU, with the fan almost never spinning, but I want to know how to make the fan spin so I can check if I messed up that thin wire. What should I do?


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

The fan won't spin up unless you hit a threshold of power (that's how it is with my AX850, a re-branded Seasonic X series)

Have you tried gaming or anything extensive like that?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaCeR123;12779569*
> Want to share my sleeving job.
> It's pretty crappy to be honest and I did have quite a bunch of problems but in the end it work out and I think it looks decent besides the heatshrink


It's not MDPC but its not bad looking either.









@Rags... I got the 850w Corsair version of that PSU. I don't believe that the little wire is for your PSU fan. In fact I'm pretty sure that those little wires were intended to minimize noise on the line. I've got three of them on mine.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;12784673*
> The fan won't spin up unless you hit a threshold of power (that's how it is with my AX850, a re-branded Seasonic X series)
> 
> Have you tried gaming or anything extensive like that?


I tried 3dmark and Heaven and no go. The thing is I got freaked out, swithed the cable to the original 24pin and the fan didn't spin either.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12784716*
> I tried 3dmark and Heaven and no go. The thing is I got freaked out, swithed the cable to the original 24pin and the fan didn't spin either.


Hey man did you unplug the fan and remember to plug it back in? I unplugged mine and the only reason I know it's working properly is all the dust that I cleaned off my DCMiFlex filter.









These Yate Loon Fans that Seasonic uses aren't very loud at all.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## PapaSmurf

You might want to fire up a hair dryer and point it into the psu to see if the additional heat will activate the fan. It might not be enough, but other than having the system under full load that's all I can think of. Maybe Tator Tot will see this and have some ideas.

You also might want to try running Prime, IDT, OCCT, etc. along with a Video benchmark with the hair dryer.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Well almost being finished putting together my build- heres the back of my sleeving job and the cable management. Ehh- I dont think its the best but its acceptable for now









Havent gotten pictures up close yet


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;12781505*


Beautiful!


----------



## Ceadderman

That's very nice. What's all that blue on the screws you got goin on? Are those Nils cap hiders? I noticed you have some on the front our your case too.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:


> That's very nice. What's all that blue on the screws you got goin on? Are those Nils cap hiders? I noticed you have some on the front our your case too.


Nope, I didnt buy a thing from Nils. Theyre blue aluminum counter sunk washers







with black countersunk hex screws. I used these all throughout my build to help illustrate the black and blue theme.
Here are two more pictures (earlier in my build)


----------



## drka0tic

Those look sick.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:


> Those look sick.


Thanks







Ill make sure when i get everything complete, to take more shots of my sleeving and wiring.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12784853*
> Hey man did you unplug the fan and remember to plug it back in? I unplugged mine and the only reason I know it's working properly is all the dust that I cleaned off my DCMiFlex filter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These Yate Loon Fans that Seasonic uses aren't very loud at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I don't think there is an option to switch the fan off.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer;12785507*
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ill make sure when i get everything complete, to take more shots of my sleeving and wiring.


Yeah man, do they have any that would fit a 6-32 caps head screw? I'd like to get some but mine are all Caps head. I want to pick some up for my MoBo so I can tie in the screws to what I have in the back where they aren't seen.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## fshizl

Ragster that sleeving job I did was for the 24 pin of my x650 that I have for my girlfriend.

I'll post pics tonight to show how I did the splits on the cable.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12785640*
> I don't think there is an option to switch the fan off.


Thanks but I already finished the sleeve job and I just used this method.
http://www.overclock.net/12134231-post3358.html


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;12786222*
> Ragster that sleeving job I did was for the 24 pin of my x650 that I have for my girlfriend.
> 
> I'll post pics tonight to show how I did the splits on the cable.


Yea I'd love to see how exactly you did the sleeving on the Seasonic one


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12784716*
> I tried 3dmark and Heaven and no go. The thing is I got freaked out, swithed the cable to the original 24pin and the fan didn't spin either.


That's strange to say the least.

Do you know if it spun before you started sleeving?

Might want to give Seasonic a call/e-mail, if you do need to RMA it though they shouldn't need the cables.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;12786222*
> Ragster that sleeving job I did was for the 24 pin of my x650 that I have for my girlfriend.
> 
> I'll post pics tonight to show how I did the splits on the cable.


Did she give you a hanky panky for doing that?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;12134231*
> You know... I forgot to take a picture of that before I sent off the cables, but I had one that did show it. I also included a diagram to show the two ways I have dealt with the double wire.
> 
> *snip*
> 
> Kinda looks like a 4yr old with a crayon lol >.<


I see how the 1st illustration would work but the 2nd one leaves me a bit perplexed. You only have 24 pins and one of those is empty so where does that extra pin go if you have a PSU like the HX850w?









Mine has 3 double leads. So if I did like the 2nd illustration suggests I'd split the leads into 6 separate leads and be knackered for it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12785640*
> I don't think there is an option to switch the fan off.


Sure there is. You just wouldn't be able to plug the fan back in when you're up and running.


















Don't know if you can see it but the lead goes off to the lower left corner where it plugs in with a +/- connector. If you do like I did and unplugged it to keep your work from bring too unwieldy and then forgot to plug it back in then it won't spin up no matter what you do. I'm sure you plugged yours in but never can tell sometimes.









Oh also don't know how the Seasonic grill is set up, but I replaced my grill to a non logo grill so I could take that grill and mount it on my Rear Exhaust fan. Check to make sure the grills are on the outside. When I first put it back together I was left scratching my head as to how come the case didn't want to go back together. Then I noticed the rings were riding the fan hub. If you got yours together with the rings riding the hub it may not have a choice to be off. Can't spin up under drag.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12787041*
> I see how the 1st illustration would work but the 2nd one leaves me a bit perplexed. You only have 24 pins and one of those is empty so where does that extra pin go if you have a PSU like the HX850w?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine has 3 double leads. So if I did like the 2nd illustration suggests I'd split the leads into 6 separate leads and be knackered for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I used the first illustration since I didn't understand how the second one would work ether. The x-650 has three double leads as well but the only one I really had any trouble with was the one with the very thin wire for the fan.


----------



## sockpirate

A while back someone linked a website of a company that sells pre sleeved cables? Anyone know what company that is ? I had it bookmarked but lost it. I think it was called elite something or another.


----------



## fshizl

Rags, i sent you a pm with the picture on how i got this thing done. Let me know if you got the pictures. If you need better shots or explaining it ill be able to do that too..


----------



## sockpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate;12787828*
> A while back someone linked a website of a company that sells pre sleeved cables? Anyone know what company that is ? I had it bookmarked but lost it. I think it was called elite something or another.


Anyone know ?


----------



## mastical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate;12788667*
> Anyone know ?


http://psychosleeve.com/

This guy will sleeve them for you but I dont think its what your looking for,


----------



## Munkypoo7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate;12788667*
> Anyone know ?


Link..?
The NZXT's are good quality, no see through, easy quick sleeving. The sleeving is a bit more light reflective than the MDPC-X sleeving though.. not that it's an issue, just saying









Psychosleeve does it too, but be aware that they cost more, but the work is extremely professional, and quite stunning. You *do* get what you pay for


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12787041*
> I see how the 1st illustration would work but the 2nd one leaves me a bit perplexed. You only have 24 pins and one of those is empty so where does that extra pin go if you have a PSU like the HX850w?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -snip-


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;12787109*
> I used the first illustration since I didn't understand how the second one would work ether. The x-650 has three double leads as well but the only one I really had any trouble with was the one with the very thin wire for the fan.


LOL, I had to look at it for a second myself and im the one who made it.

The second illustration was to show that you could do the split anywhere you wanted, for example you could move the wire split right at the power supply side or the mobo connector side, but most will opt to putting it in a place where its at the back of the case.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;12788507*
> Rags, i sent you a pm with the picture on how i got this thing done. Let me know if you got the pictures. If you need better shots or explaining it ill be able to do that too.


I can't get over how beautiful that color combo is.


----------



## RushN

Look what came on my birthday


























Now I have a total of 650ft of sleeving to do. Yay!









Thanks Nils!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Well then, quit wasting time with posting pics and start sleeving.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushN;12795963*
> Look what came on my birthday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I have a total of 650ft of sleeving to do. Yay!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Nils!


no shrink?


----------



## Kick

OMG. i cannot seem to be able to push the atx pin out of the 24pin.

no matter how hard i try. ive used the tool with the sunbeam kit and tried staples.

on a 24pin extension, im able to push the pin out easily.

BAH


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kick;12798061*
> OMG. i cannot seem to be able to push the atx pin out of the 24pin.
> 
> no matter how hard i try. ive used the tool with the sunbeam kit and tried staples.
> 
> on a 24pin extension, im able to push the pin out easily.
> 
> BAH


Kay if you have a fairly good size probe take that and compress each side of the pin. Then take your tool and re-insert it. And wiggle it so the blades are moving up and down. Sometimes the pin locks don't like to cooperate. It happened with my Corsair PSU a lot more than you would think. It got to the point where when I finally got the pin out I pushed the flanges in a bit so I could easily remove the pin again for keeping track of my leads and for getting everything to look proper. When I'm done(yes I am not yet done) I will go back and push the ears back out and then finalize it by locking them in.









Hope this helps. Just make sure not to torque on the tool. I don't care whose tool you use cause they can all be brittle when you torque on them.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## fshizl




----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;12798556*
> *snip*


Very nice work bruh. I just single sleeved all three sets of dual leads but that's pretty clean.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kick;12798061*
> OMG. i cannot seem to be able to push the atx pin out of the 24pin.
> 
> no matter how hard i try. ive used the tool with the sunbeam kit and tried staples.
> 
> on a 24pin extension, im able to push the pin out easily.
> 
> BAH


If you have access to one, grab a hair dryer and heat up the connector for 10-15 seconds. Should have no trouble getting it out after that. Worked on every pin I couldn't get out with the pin-remover tool.

I just stripped my Silverstone cables in prep for sleeving tomorrow


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*












That is exactly how I did mine.


----------



## RushN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godofdeath;12797332*
> no shrink?


I got 200 pre-cut black and 100 pre-cut white from Nils, and an extra 40 meters of shrink just in case.


----------



## fshizl

rags, the total length of the cable is about 14 inches. and i just did the y about 6 inches from the power supply plug...

so it looks like its hidden from the 24 pin... it turned out really nice.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Ahhhh, these Silverstone cables are so easy to de-pin in comparison to my old Vantec!! My new lighter is giving me troubles though so I only got to finish half of the 8pin CPU power.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12808664*
> Ahhhh, these Silverstone cables are so easy to de-pin in comparison to my old Vantec!! My new lighter is giving me troubles though so I only got to finish half of the 8pin CPU power.


hairdryer!
fire from the stove


----------



## OolerTheInventor

OK my question.... how do you guys get your cables to not have bends in them.... I wonder if its just the wires that I've been using.... once they find a bend they like to stay that way and I cannot straighten them back out to save my life. Any tips and tricks to make the wire not as stiff?

Here is a good example of the Corsair wire being sleeved with paracord and the wire going which ever way it wants.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OolerTheInventor;12808838*
> OK my question.... how do you guys get your cables to not have bends in them.... I wonder if its just the wires that I've been using.... once they find a bend they like to stay that way and I cannot straighten them back out to save my life. Any tips and tricks to make the wire not as stiff?
> 
> Here is a good example of the Corsair wire being sleeved with paracord and the wire going which ever way it wants.


I've found that if you run the lead back and forth through your hand a few times, that it generally straightens them out so they're easier to work with. Remember metal is stiff when it has no heat(power) running through it. Just warm it up a bit and away you go.









Okay you sickos get your minds out of the gutter.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Kortwa

If you have a heat gun or a hairdryer you can run it over at the point of the kink from a distance so it warms up and is able to straighten out more. Just be careful not to get too close if your using a heat gun.


----------



## sockpirate

How do you install this to your power supply ? My cable for my 24 pin goes "inside" the unit.

http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/premium_cables/cb_24p


----------



## Kortwa

Its an extension for your 24 pin. Its not meant to work as the whole cable as much as make the end that comes out of the back of the comp and connect to the mobo look sleeved.


----------



## sockpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kortwa;12809973*
> Its an extension for your 24 pin. Its not meant to work as the whole cable as much as make the end that comes out of the back of the comp and connect to the mobo look sleeved.


ahhh that is exactly what i was thinking...hmmmm


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godofdeath;12808802*
> hairdryer!
> fire from the stove


My hairdryer isn't powerful enough







Dries my long hair pretty good but sucks for heat-shrinking. I'm not keen on a yellow flame either. Don't like the carbon soot that I always end up coating the heatshrink with. But it doesn't matter because I got the lighter issue sorted







Today is 100% devoted to sleeving the 24-pin. Yay!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12815932*
> My hairdryer isn't powerful enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dries my long hair pretty good but sucks for heat-shrinking. I'm not keen on a yellow flame either. Don't like the carbon soot that I always end up coating the heatshrink with. But it doesn't matter because I got the lighter issue sorted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Today is 100% devoted to sleeving the 24-pin. Yay!


I want pictures >=I


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12815932*
> My hairdryer isn't powerful enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dries my long hair pretty good but sucks for heat-shrinking. I'm not keen on a yellow flame either. Don't like the carbon soot that I always end up coating the heatshrink with. But it doesn't matter because I got the lighter issue sorted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Today is 100% devoted to sleeving the 24-pin. Yay!










Kay the trick here is to concentrate the blue portion of the flame on and around the surface and not too long in one place. Rotate your cables(as much as they will allow) and move the lighter back and forth along the work in an _even_ motion not too fast because it takes longer to get it to shrink properly and you run the risk of sooting but also overheating the shrink and splitting it. It takes a little practice but once you've got it, it *IS* the best way really.

Trust me I do the negative aspect(alternate color shrinking) and have had my fair share of sooty Red shrinks.









This is a pic of what I had before I tightened everything up. Not one of those pieces of shrink survived the finalization process.
















_*Note the dual lead that I tried to solder(much better with an iron; really) in that pic.
I recommend having the proper tool and pins on hand at all times*_

Hope this helps.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## hokeyplyr48

I sleeved a previous PSU without any issues using the staples method. Worked just fine so I'm surprised at this one.

I'm trying to sleeve my new corsair PSU, but I'm unable to get the pins out. I just got a shiny new tool to make my life easy:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=2964

And I've tried using staples, but still cannot get these things out.

Any ideas?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12816247*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kay the trick here is to concentrate the blue portion of the flame on and around the surface and not too long in one place. Rotate your cables(as much as they will allow) and move the lighter back and forth along the work in an _even_ motion not too fast because it takes longer to get it to shrink properly and you run the risk of sooting but also overheating the shrink and splitting it. It takes a little practice but once you've got it, it *IS* the best way really.
> 
> Trust me I do the negative aspect(alternate color shrinking) and have had my fair share of sooty Red shrinks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pic of what I had before I tightened everything up. Not one of those pieces of shrink survived the finalization process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _*Note the dual lead that I tried to solder(much better with an iron; really) in that pic.
> I recommend having the proper tool and pins on hand at all times*_
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I know how it's done







Just saying that I don't get any soot on the heatshrink if I use a blue flame, but I do if I use a yellow one.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hokeyplyr48;12816646*
> I sleeved a previous PSU without any issues using the staples method. Worked just fine so I'm surprised at this one.
> 
> I'm trying to sleeve my new corsair PSU, but I'm unable to get the pins out. I just got a shiny new tool to make my life easy:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=2964
> 
> And I've tried using staples, but still cannot get these things out.
> 
> Any ideas?


I tried both staples and safety pin tool. No dice on the Corsair PSUs'. That's how I ended up having to crimp on more pins than I wanted to. 4 on the 8 pin and 6 on the 24 pin I believe was the final count. 3 of the 24 pin weren't a result of stripping, but from separating the dual lead connections to sort out the mess.









@spidermonkey... I didn't doubt you did Mate. Just thought it needed to be said. More for the sleeving n00bs than anything.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## hokeyplyr48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12816805*
> I tried both staples and safety pin tool. No dice on the Corsair PSUs'. That's how I ended up having to crimp on more pins than I wanted to. 4 on the 8 pin and 6 on the 24 pin I believe was the final count. 3 of the 24 pin weren't a result of stripping, but from separating the dual lead connections to sort out the mess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @spidermonkey... I didn't doubt you did Mate. Just thought it needed to be said. More for the sleeving n00bs than anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Man...so there's really no way? How did you end up getting them out? I've tried all 8 on the PCIE and not a single one is budging. Is this because it's built differently orrrr?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Try heating up the connector housing with a hair dryer to soften it up a bit, push the pin all the way INTO the socket, insert the tool, then try pulling them back.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12817264*
> Try heating up the connector housing with a hair dryer to soften it up a bit, push the pin all the way INTO the socket, insert the tool, then try pulling them back.


I never heated mine up. I just pushed the pin in as deep as it would go and then inserted the tool and wiggled it so the spades were moving parallel to the ears on the tool. You have to push it in as far as it will go with these Corsair connectors though, cause they seem to be made a bit differently. Heating it up sounds like a good idea but I'm not sure. Cause I would thing that would be counter to it holding its shape if heated too long.

Of course you could do like I did and just buy replacement connectors and use those. Though mine had to be purchased cause one of the pins snapped inside it(ATX pin not Tool Pin) and it's impossible to get out without fragging the connector. I tried everything to get that sucker out. No dice. In fact I'm still trying to salvage the connector cause I'm too cheap to throw things out. I'd rather try to salvage it instead.









I used these tools to get the pins out though:










The double probe is part of an Archer solder tool set. I used the scribe end to push the pin into itself along the split using the connector for leverage. First one side then the other. This allows me to insert the tool into difficult spots w/o having to bend the blades on it. Once I've got it inserted to the thickest point on the tool I run it Up ^[|]v Down along the pin and then stab at it like stickin a prom queen but w/o the jackhammer effect.







That usually gets the barbs to collapse into the pin w/o breaking them. Once you get a feel for it you can pretty much tell when to let go of the tool and pull the lead from the connector. Make sure to let go of the tool and not pull too hard would hate to hear you're being sued because your tool flew out a window into a pedestrian's eye.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12817551*
> I never heated mine up. I just pushed the pin in as deep as it would go and then inserted the tool and wiggled it so the spades were moving parallel to the ears on the tool. You have to push it in as far as it will go with these Corsair connectors though, cause they seem to be made a bit differently. Heating it up sounds like a good idea but I'm not sure. Cause I would thing that would be counter to it holding its shape if heated too long.


In most cases it isn't necessary, but a lot of people have found it to be very effective on connectors that are stuck like the OP was running into. Technique doesn't really help in that situation. Heating the connector softens it up allowing the locking tabs to pop out a LOT easier. I wouldn't have mentioned it if it wasn't effective and worked when other methods didn't.


----------



## ErBall

My best go at it. I think I did well enough.


----------



## mastical

^^^ Did you need an extension for your 8 pin?

Looks great btw.


----------



## hokeyplyr48

Man thats the same PSU I have. Did you have any trouble removing the connectors?


----------



## drka0tic

I also have the HX850 and had a really tough time at the beginning. I tried several staple methods and even bought the $12 FrozenCPU tool. Nothing worked until I read about the 2-staple L-shape method.

Rip off 2 staples that are still glued together and bend one end to make an L-shape. All you need are two of these. Stick one of them on each side of the atx pin as such:










Press down on each of them to compress the little wings on the pin and give the cable a slight tug to pull it out.

After some practice you will get the hang of it.


----------



## drka0tic

I'm finally done with my mod and sleeving (until I get my SSD and new GPU that is







)

This is the last upgrade I'll be doing in the Cosmos. I love the case but the cable management is horrible. I think I did the best I could do. I'll be posting a build log soon. Enjoy!

P.S. I used MDPC B-Magic small and SATA type and FurryLetters Black clean cut for the rest.


----------



## hokeyplyr48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic;12818927*
> I also have the HX850 and had a really tough time at the beginning. I tried several staple methods and even bought the $12 FrozenCPU tool. Nothing worked until I read about the 2-staple L-shape method.
> 
> Rip off 2 staples that are still glued together and bend one end to make an L-shape. All you need are two of these. Stick one of them on each side of the atx pin as such:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Press down on each of them to compress the little wings on the pin and give the cable a slight tug to pull it out.
> 
> After some practice you will get the hang of it.


THANK YOU SO MUCH!! +rep This worked and it popped right out. I'm gonna have to buy some more staples









But does anyone have a concrete answer of whether this will void the warranty? I googled it and found threads here, on xtremesystems, and on corsair's forums, all saying yes and no. There doesn't seem to be a consistent answer. Sent an email to corsair, but just wondering what you guys have been told. Don't wanna kill the 7 year warranty...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12817979*
> In most cases it isn't necessary, but a lot of people have found it to be very effective on connectors that are stuck like the OP was running into. Technique doesn't really help in that situation. Heating the connector softens it up allowing the locking tabs to pop out a LOT easier. I wouldn't have mentioned it if it wasn't effective and worked when other methods didn't.


Wasn't doubting you Mate. Just relating my experience with stubborn Corsair connectors.









I might've worded it better though.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hokeyplyr48;12818262*
> Man thats the same PSU I have. Did you have any trouble removing the connectors?


He has extensions on board.


















~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## drka0tic

Thanx...Glad you got it to work. Big relief, right? When I popped my 1st one out it felt like dropping a load after being constipated for weeks...HAHAHAH!

Regarding the PSU warranty, most people claim that as long as the unit itself is untouched (sticker is not removed), the warranty is still intact. This post here documents a reply back from a Corsair rep:

http://www.overclock.net/other-hardware-mods/635101-does-sleeving-corsair-psu-void-warranty.html Refer to post #15


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic;12819065*
> I'm finally done with my mod and sleeving (until I get my SSD and new GPU that is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> This is the last upgrade I'll be doing in the Cosmos. I love the case but the cable management is horrible. I think I did the best I could do. I'll be posting a build log soon. Enjoy!
> 
> P.S. I used MDPC B-Magic small and SATA type and FurryLetters Black clean cut for the rest.


Absolutely gorgeous and a fantastic sleeve combo


----------



## drka0tic

Thanks


----------



## nachielous

Im a noob and Ive read most of the post here in regards to the cheapest types etc...Just curious what the best/cheapest buyer to purchase sleeving from on ebay. There are alot of sellers out there...I also dont care too much for the best quality because Im just learning


----------



## mastical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nachielous;12832199*
> Im a noob and Ive read most of the post here in regards to the cheapest types etc...Just curious what the best/cheapest buyer to purchase sleeving from on ebay. There are alot of sellers out there...I also dont care too much for the best quality because Im just learning


Furryletters- buy the clean cut 1/8 inch sleeve.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nachielous;12832199*
> Im a noob and Ive read most of the post here in regards to the cheapest types etc...Just curious what the best/cheapest buyer to purchase sleeving from on ebay. There are alot of sellers out there...I also dont care too much for the best quality because Im just learning


Go to the following thread and contact Barry directly for the best price.

http://www.overclock.net/other-hardware-mods/737210-great-news-furryletters-sleeving.html


----------



## Kick

hey guys, quick question, all the ground wires can be mixed up right?

like in the molex- the two black wires are ground. they may begin in two different holes, but when u put them back together, they can be in either of the two middle pin holes on the molex connector right?


----------



## nachielous

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Go to the following thread and contact Barry directly for the best price.

http://www.overclock.net/other-hardw...-sleeving.html


Thanks alot I just sent him a email :]


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nachielous*


Thanks alot I just sent him a email :]


I've bought from Barry previously and he is great to deal with. The sleeve is top notch quality too. I like it a bit more than MDPC now that I'm actually using it and not just taking photos of it -.-


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kick*


hey guys, quick question, all the ground wires can be mixed up right?

like in the molex- the two black wires are ground. they may begin in two different holes, but when u put them back together, they can be in either of the two middle pin holes on the molex connector right?


Yes, as long as you keep them in the original connector. Just don't put a ground from a molex in the 24 pin or an other connector. That goes for ANY wire in ANY connector.


----------



## grassh0ppa

how do you sleeve the sata power connectors?


----------



## PapaSmurf

If they are the 90* type you pop the top off, remove the connector, sleeve the wire, then put the connector back on.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup and have fun getting them back on. I'm gonna do mine tomorrow now that the work surface is clear.









I was thinking of cutting my flat connection off on my ODD SATA cable but I decider to go with the last 3 connectors or maybe the last 2 in the series so that way I don't short myself by cutting it back like how I set up my HDD SATA lead. That one wouldn't be able to reach my ODD without stickin out like a sore thumb. I shortened that one by cutting off the final 3 connections.









:Edit: *Because of popular demand I will INDEED be posting pics when I get it finished.*









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## PapaSmurf

Take a block of wood big enough to be stable when you work with it and cut a groove into it that the narrow part of the SATA connector will just fit into up to where it bulges out. That will hold the connector stable enough to make it easier to re-attach the cables. It also helps to have the appropriate punch down tool. I got one about 30 years ago. I haven't seen one like it for sale in several years, but I'm sure they are still available. Otherwise a small flathead screwdriver will work in a pinch.


----------



## SmasherBasher

http://www.altex.com/Paladin-ProPunch-110-5-Pair-Punchdown-Tool-PA3560-P143824.aspx
Something like that?


----------



## PapaSmurf

No. That is for 110 style blocks (pictured below) where you would be punching down 5 wires at a time and cutting them off.










Basically what the type we need here would look like is two U shaped ends point down spread about 1/8 to 3/16" apart that would act as saddles to go over the wire on either side of the connector. It would look something like this one for telephone wires but have two saddles in stead of one. You do have to be careful though as many of the single saddle models will also cut the wire off just past the connector and that would defeat the entire purpose here.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;12834856*
> http://www.altex.com/Paladin-ProPunch-110-5-Pair-Punchdown-Tool-PA3560-P143824.aspx
> Something like that?










That's gotta be the most overpriced gizmo on the planet.









I'm not sure even tech shops do enough cables to make that price worthwhile. Tools like this might explain the high prices of getting some of these types of presleeved doodads from the eTailers. Maybe I should get into it and undercut some of these guys.









MDPC is expensive enough, I can't justify that purchase no matter how many cables I could do.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12834473*
> Yup and have fun getting them back on. I'm gonna do mine tomorrow now that the work surface is clear.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking of cutting my flat connection off on my ODD SATA cable but I decider to go with the last 3 connectors or maybe the last 2 in the series so that way I don't short myself by cutting it back like how I set up my HDD SATA lead. That one wouldn't be able to reach my ODD without stickin out like a sore thumb. I shortened that one by cutting off the final 3 connections.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


if you could be bothered you should post pictures and make a mini guide


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;12835438*
> if you could be bothered you should post pictures and make a mini guide


You don't want a whole lot do you.







hehe

Yeah I think I could do something along these lines. I hadn't planned on taking pics until the finished product, but it's not that unheard of to take some in between shots.









I found a really decent price for a tool similar to what Papa Smurf posted btw...



$17 at the same place that $110 tool was linked from. Just click on the pic if you want details.


















~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12835529*
> 
> I found a really decent price for a tool similar to what Papa Smurf posted btw...


Avoid that one as it cuts the wire off after it does the punchdown.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Avoid that one as it cuts the wire off after it does the punchdown.


Don't know how it would do that if you have the blade straddling the connector parallel to the wire.









Am I just reading that tool bit wrong or something? I see where one would use it to straddle the wire instead but that wouldn't do you any good anyway cause you wouldn't be able to keep consistent pressure on both sides by doing that. And other than the handle it looks exactly like the one you referred to.









~Ceadder


----------



## PapaSmurf

My old boss had one similar to that one and it didn't work on the punch down SATA or Molex power cables at all. The tip was designed for much smaller wires. I don't have a working camera here at the moment to post a pic of it, but basically it has the two U shaped saddles on either side to hold the wire straight and a flat blade (like a small flat head screwdriver) in the middle. I wouldn't waste $20 on one of these if it were me. If the flat blade that is used to push is too sharp it will cut through the insulation and possibly the wire. Just use a small flathead screwdriver. The block of wood with the slot in it (or a small vice) to hold the connector steady is what helps the most.


----------



## RushN

Got the computer ready for some sleeving, just need to make some holes for the cables to pass through.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I think I've just discovered a way of sleeving SATA power cables







It's a bit messy atm but I think it could look good if I can perfect it. Pics later on once I've done the whole connector. Only tested it out on one wire so far.


----------



## PapaSmurf

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZ2HcRl4wSk[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Well it has worked thus far. This method eliminates the need for heatshrink altogether and still looks really tidy. Each wire uses only a single piece of sleeve too







I will post some rough photos later on of the 'prototype' and then over the next few days the aim is to practice it until it looks really good


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Well it has worked thus far. This method eliminates the need for heatshrink altogether and still looks really tidy. Each wire uses only a single piece of sleeve too







I will post some rough photos later on of the 'prototype' and then over the next few days the aim is to practice it until it looks really good










is it sleeving the whole thing and then pushing them into the sata connectors?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


is it sleeving the whole thing and then pushing them into the sata connectors?


Yeah I think that is what he's doing. Problem is that works on everything but bonafide SATA connectors or Molex style cause their covers don't spread very easily.

~Ceadder


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Yeah I think that is what *she* is doing. Problem is that works on everything but bonafide SATA connectors or Molex style cause their covers don't spread very easily.

~Ceadder










Fixed =)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Fixed =)


Hehe my apologies to SM.









~Ceadder


----------



## spiderm0nkey

No worries







Here's a picture I took. As you can see, the covers go back on just fine on the Silverstone connectors. I've got some original molex ones lying around too that I will try it out with at some stage as well. I'll do a bit of a photo guide for when I explain what I did. For now, I'm off to bed









Oh and sorry for the yucky photos. Too tired to process them properly.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12863633*
> No worries
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a picture I took. As you can see, the covers go back on just fine on the Silverstone connectors. I've got some original molex ones lying around too that I will try it out with at some stage as well. I'll do a bit of a photo guide for when I explain what I did. For now, I'm off to bed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and sorry for the yucky photos. Too tired to process them properly.
> 
> *snip snip*


Well as I think you can see here, there is no way to do that with Molex heads. The valleys that straddle the cables have just enough of an opening for the cables to fit snugly. So I think I've come up with a pretty decent system since I'm flipping the heads to the opposite side so that they can be installed cleanly in a low mounted PSU. The other way(should have 2 sets each of these top and lower orientated SATA power cables) is just too much of a PitA for cable management. I set my RAID power up the same way.









Speaking of RAID, I would probably be done with my SATA cable by now if I didn't have a nice little virus to deal with.









Tried to get on earlier today and could only get that last communication in just barely. I wanted to upload these pics and the other walkthrough pics to my Photobucket account. It wasn't photobucket, it was some "Adaware" that I picked up in the HAF thread cause I was stupid and clicked a link to CM because someone said it was clean again. Yeah right. Clicked that stupid link and got nailed by that nice little surprise. Thought I had avoided it but I guess I hadn't. I scanned in Safe Mode with every thing I had. Too bad that sucker penetrated my A: Drive, so I had to do it all over again. Looks like my New Years resolution bit the dust in flames.









Anyway, I'm building my SATA power one cable at a time and using the caps to space out the shrink. I just have to make sure that the bare cable splits the housing evenly on both sides so that I'll be able to snap the covers in place.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12863633*
> No worries
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a picture I took. As you can see, the covers go back on just fine on the Silverstone connectors. I've got some original molex ones lying around too that I will try it out with at some stage as well. I'll do a bit of a photo guide for when I explain what I did. For now, I'm off to bed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and sorry for the yucky photos. Too tired to process them properly.


did you file them down or anything to get them to fit?
i remember seeing this somehwere


----------



## spiderm0nkey

No filing at all. I did cut a wee sliver off one side of the back cover because it was longer on one side than the other. I'm still prepared to give it a try with the molex connectors too Ceadder







Not gonna say it can't be done until I'm sure I've tried everything I can think of


----------



## PapaSmurf

There are two different backside covers for those connectors. One has a longer side and a shorter side which is designed for use on the end connector (shown on the left). The long side makes sure that the end of the wire isn't left exposed. The covers for the rest of them would have two short sides (shown on the right).










They have 4pin Molex plugs just like this as well.


----------



## runeazn

where can i get cheap heatshrink in EU? Thats from moderate/good, good/price quality
as the heatshrink from barry is cheap but yeah shipping kills it.

atleast its only 5$ shipping and 0.26$ per feet but i can think i can get it cheaper here

and damm i got 4.01K posts


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hokeyplyr48;12816646*
> I sleeved a previous PSU without any issues using the staples method. Worked just fine so I'm surprised at this one.
> 
> I'm trying to sleeve my new corsair PSU, but I'm unable to get the pins out. I just got a shiny new tool to make my life easy:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=2964
> 
> And I've tried using staples, but still cannot get these things out.
> 
> Any ideas?


I was getting nervous about the sleeving job I'm going to be doing in a couple of days, because though I had sleeve a 24 pin extension once before, with staples, for some reason I couldn't seem to get any pins out on the 6 & 8 pin connectors I was using for practice.

Then I found this video on youtube

[ame="



]

, and bought a set of 12 Jeweler's #2 Sawblades, for just $4.65 shipped!

They arrived today. I watched the video again, and inserted the blades as I was listening, and could feel the blades sliding down against the pin wingy things. I put in both blades, moving the cable from one side & back as I slid them in, and voilà, the first first time I pulled on a pin, it slid right out. No yanking. I didn't have to push the saw blades down hard, not at all. I know this method is the best I have used, and I'm finally feeling like, bring it on, sleeving challenge!

Check it out.

Thanks,


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *runeazn;12869129*
> where can i get cheap heatshrink in EU? Thats from moderate/good, good/price quality
> as the heatshrink from barry is cheap but yeah shipping kills it.
> 
> atleast its only 5$ shipping and 0.26$ per feet but i can think i can get it cheaper here
> 
> and damm i got 4.01K posts


~3€ per meter.

Just check out MDPC-x.com

I don't think that it's the cheapest, but it is the best so you should compare whatever you find to theirs price-wise. Nils is based in Germany.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## godofdeath

ZOMG AGAIN LIKE THE BILLIONTH TIME

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sle...pper-brown.htm
http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sle...pper-brown.htm

new goodies


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


There are two different backside covers for those connectors. One has a longer side and a shorter side which is designed for use on the end connector (shown on the left). The long side makes sure that the end of the wire isn't left exposed. The covers for the rest of them would have two short sides (shown on the right).










They have 4pin Molex plugs just like this as well.


LOL! I'm such a dork. I used the wrong cover on the connector. I didn't even think twice that they would be different.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


LOL! I'm such a dork. I used the wrong cover on the connector. I didn't even think twice that they would be different.










No problem. That's what happens when you live on the bottom of the planet. All of the blood rushes to your brain causing brain farts.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


ZOMG AGAIN LIKE THE BILLIONTH TIME

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sle...pper-brown.htm
http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sle...pper-brown.htm

new goodies


I hafta say that although it's MDPC that is the fugliest color choice anyone could make for their sleeving. What was Nils thinking.









I guess if you want it to match the ugly PCB color that you can't get away from then that would be the color choice. But I can only see MAYBE two colors of shrink being used with that. Black or... nvm make that one. An I love to mix up my color choices on the shrink.









I hope he's able to sell that but imho, I wouldn't even consider that color in my cabinet.























I dunno maybe it would look good as an accent with Dragons Blood as the base color.









~Ceadder


----------



## PapaSmurf

I can see it quite readily fitting into a military or hunting themed case.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


I can see it quite readily fitting into a military or hunting themed case.


Ooh hadn't thought of that. Still I'd have a hard time committing to that color. Maybe mixing it with some of that nice army Green and Titanium colors for shiggles.

+Rep for that thought. I had about given up hope on Nils taste in colors.


















~Ceadder


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12872701*
> I hafta say that although it's MDPC that is the fugliest color choice anyone could make for their sleeving. What was Nils thinking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess if you want it to match the ugly PCB color that you can't get away from then that would be the color choice. But I can only see MAYBE two colors of shrink being used with that. Black or... nvm make that one. An I love to mix up my color choices on the shrink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope he's able to sell that but imho, I wouldn't even consider that color in my cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dunno maybe it would look good as an accent with Dragons Blood as the base color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Could possibly be your monitor too perhaps. Looks absolutely stunning on mine. I plan on getting it at some stage







Would go so beautifully with the Camo green.


----------



## cc_brandon

I kind of like the brown. A Sabertooth P67 build with black/brown/combat green sleeving could look great I think.


----------



## SongofStorms

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;12863633*
> No worries
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a picture I took. As you can see, the covers go back on just fine on the Silverstone connectors. I've got some original molex ones lying around too that I will try it out with at some stage as well. I'll do a bit of a photo guide for when I explain what I did. For now, I'm off to bed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and sorry for the yucky photos. Too tired to process them properly.


That looks amazing. I've sleeved all my cables and the only one I can't get looking clean is the friggin SATA power cable. You have restored my hope in getting it looking good. I can't wait to see the photo guide!


----------



## SKl

Has anyone sleeved an AX before? Im having trouble getting any pins out







,
I was using a staple and a small screwdriver for the other wires, but they dont work at all on the ax should i buy a tool?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SKl;12875562*
> Has anyone sleeved an AX before? Im having trouble getting any pins out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,
> I was using a staple and a small screwdriver for the other wires, but they dont work at all on the ax should i buy a tool?


This is typical of Corsair/Seasonic PSUs' it seems. Best just splurge and get the $10 tool.

www.performance-pcs.com DIY/ tools/ extractors ,crimpers and cutters...

...Awww hell it's easier for me to link you. Click on my pic and it will take you where you need to go.










The tool is the one under my Molex tool. It has a dual as well as a single pin for 3 and 4pin fan connectors as well as most any single connection you have to get at.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SKl;12875562*
> Has anyone sleeved an AX before? Im having trouble getting any pins out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,
> I was using a staple and a small screwdriver for the other wires, but they dont work at all on the ax should i buy a tool?


I found a great tool just the other day and having tested it on my 24 pin extension, on Corsair modular PCIE cables, I can vouch for how great it works. It's a #2 jeweler's saw blade, and I learned about it as described a few posts back. There's a video included which is very helpful.

View attachment 202027


A set of 12 of them only cost about $4 and from what I can, they'll last a long time if you use them correctly, as the guy in the video describes. I have wasted money on a few of the different extractors, and have tried staples. . . with varying success but plenty of effort and I'll be using these from now on.


----------



## Kick

Whered u get them from?


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kick;12876462*
> Whered u get them from?


On ebay, cheap, but be very careful! Five minutes after writing that I broke one into my finger and I'm just now leaving the ER. It was stuck in like a fish hook!! I'll have to figure a better way to hold in case of breakage.

Sent from my HUAWEI-M860 using Tapatalk

More info, from back @ home: I did a search on ebay for Jewelers Sawblades #2, or broader search just Jewelers Saw, and look for #2 blades -- but _not_ 2/0, those are apparently much smaller. They really do work well mostly but the Corsair modular PCIE cables are a pain, and I should have known better than to press too hard. It works best when you can just feel it knocking those pins out of the way and the wire comes out easily. I probably should wear work gloves to continue using the blades but you really need the fingers' sensitivity, but man... if you've never had a serrated blade inserted into your skin, I would not recommend you do, it was stuck in there but _good!!

_That first pic is the partof the saw that was stuck in me, only about 1/4" or even less. So even though my furryletters sleeving and some prewired UV LEDs are coming in the mail today, I might have to take it easy for a day or two.


----------



## Dualbrain

Once of the nicest injury postings Cyclo, had a good smile! Good that you take it with humor









Oh, this is a picture thread:


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dualbrain;12880057*
> Once of the nicest injury postings Cyclo, had a good smile! Good that you take it with humor


Thanks, Double-Bubble (good nickname for your nickname, no?)

I knew some good would come from my being hooked like a striped bass!


----------



## CramComplex

Hi guys,

Here's my first attempt at sleeving...it's an Enermax 500w PSU...about 5 years old and still kicking.




























So here's my question. Is there any way to hide the ugly work in the front of the PSU? Do I cover it with a larger velcro wrap cable sleeve? Or should I redo the entire thing? I don't have enough sleeving to actually rework everything.









Any help would be appreciated.

EDIT: I'll be using Corsairs technique of using hot glue to glue the 24-pin mobo connector and wrap it with electrical tape to hide the red heat shrink as well as the 8-pin connector...should I do the same with the front of the psu to hide the fugly work?


----------



## Kortwa

If you want it to look nice the best thing to do is take the psu apart and use some of the fat black heat shrink but make sure there is enough to go into the psu housing.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CramComplex;12885963*
> Hi guys,
> 
> Here's my first attempt at sleeving...it's an Enermax 500w PSU...about 5 years old and still kicking. **snip snip**
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's my question. Is there any way to hide the ugly work in the front of the PSU? Do I cover it with a larger velcro wrap cable sleeve? Or should I redo the entire thing? I don't have enough sleeving to actually rework everything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> EDIT: *I'll be using Corsairs technique of using hot glue* to glue the 24-pin mobo connector and wrap it with electrical tape to hide the red heat shrink as well as the 8-pin connector...should I do the same with the front of the psu to hide the fugly work?










Don't do that.

Just get this...



Unfortunately it the largest inside diameter for this stuff is .5", but having worked personally with the stuff I can tell you that it holds 8 cables cleanly when you feed them through one at a time. Get some .75 in shrink in whatever color you wish, it shrinks down with enough applied heat to hold everything in place.

This stuff is the cheapest most awesomest stuff next to MDPC(the awsomeness of MDPC anyway)that I know of. Only reason I went with it was cause Nils didn't sell the big sleeving by the foot. Nor the shrink. I know he's since expanded that but if you're not making a European order it's best to go with reasonable price for reasonable stock. Should clean that up quite nicely.

I'm posting a couple pics the 1st one you might not be able to make it all out but you can see the Red shrink holding it together. The 2nd one is a bit cleaner and you can see how clean it looks with the cables. Unfortunately I don't have anything well lit. But I'll be tearing back into the system on Monday or Tuesday to clean it up, so I can mail Ragsters some assistance.

Unfortunately a client's system had a driver issue which I think was caused by a MS Update. System keeps Blue Screening with ATi2vag issues. I think I got it solved but gotta run MemTest with the browser open to see if I can replicate the event. Someone mentioned in the AMD forum that they had similar instance that they set their RAM to ganged mode in the BIOS(which I have now also done) and for some bizarre reason that clears it. Thankfully the client doesn't Overclock so he won't notice that at all.









@cyclometric... Most expensive cheap tool in the history of sleeving I imagine. You're gonna consider this lesson learned and buy the cheapest ATX tool you can get your hands on now right? Sorry bout the war wound though. And damn glad I never tried it at the same time.

I saw that Vid and knowing what I know about tools, I never even considered it. I did try the diaper pin tool and staples so I'm not bein judgmental. If you can do it cheap that's one thing, but if it looks like it can maim you in the process, it's probably not a good idea.









I've been maimed by sandpaper(during my CPU lapp) so take it for what it's worth.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## CramComplex

hmm...I'll see what's around the Toronto area for larger sleeving...they're pretty scarce over here.

Thanks for the advices, will post back with the finished images!


----------



## Ceadderman

Just so you know that big sleeving is the nylon sheath of larger paracord lines. The weave is nice and tight. I didn't know it when I ordered it, but I was glad I did.









So if you can find it in Canada grab some up.









I doubt you'll find that stuff much larger if at all though.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## hokeyplyr48

The way I was sleeving my other PSU, because I didn't want to screw it up, is undoing one wire at a time and sleeving it. This ensures that I don't swap any of the wires. In order to get the sleeving off, I would have to remove all the wires from the connector. Is each wire specific to it's location, or is it just the color that matters?

Like the PCIE has 3 yellow and 3 black, as long as I put a black wire back where *A* black wire was, but not *THE* black wire was, is it ok?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hokeyplyr48;12888819*
> The way I was sleeving my other PSU, because I didn't want to screw it up, is undoing one wire at a time and sleeving it. This ensures that I don't swap any of the wires. In order to get the sleeving off, I would have to remove all the wires from the connector. Is each wire specific to it's location, or is it just the color that matters?
> 
> Like the PCIE has 3 yellow and 3 black, as long as I put a black wire back where *A* black wire was, but not *THE* black wire was, is it ok?


And that's exactly how I sleeved my PSU. One wire at a time. Though of course you occasionally run into a snafu like stripping a pin off the cable and not having the crimping tool but everyone is on you to get it done. Then you hope someone has the color chart to cheat off of.









Correct. PCI-e should all be 18ga. cables and yellow pins go in their rightful spot across the spread and same with black cables.









Unless of course yours is like my Corsair PCI-e and they're all black.







lulz

I have the updated one as well, if anyone needs it. I marked the areas for the dual leads so that they get back home safely.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## CramComplex

Gah...it'll be next weekend before I can back at my sleeving...

@hokeyplyr48: I did all my 24pin and 8pin connectors one at a time...saves you the hassle of looking at reference pics all the time.









I'm using a sculptors tool to remove the pins as opposed to hair-pins and specialty pin removers. It's like a long needle and all I do is move the pin up and down the sides until I can feel the locking part and just push down on it. Takes less than 5 secs to remove a pin.


----------



## godofdeath

i find that the staple method works great
pin tool can bend too easily


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CramComplex;12893381*
> Gah...it'll be next weekend before I can back at my sleeving...
> 
> @hokeyplyr48: I did all my 24pin and 8pin connectors one at a time...saves you the hassle of looking at reference pics all the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using a sculptors tool to remove the pins as opposed to hair-pins and specialty pin removers. It's like a long needle and all I do is move the pin up and down the sides until I can feel the locking part and just push down on it. Takes less than 5 secs to remove a pin.


Don't feel bad. My well lit work surface has a client's system and a backup monitor on it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godofdeath;12894033*
> i find that the staple method works great
> *pin tool can bend too easily*


Not if you use it properly G.o.D.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## SKl

Thanks for the help guys,
I dont really want to try the saw method after seeing your injury lol.
Guess ill be picking up a tool







,
Where can i get one in the uk?
Also i was thinking i could use some small strips of metal if i cut something maybe?
The staples just bend when i use them and the screwdriver i used for my molexs wont fit in the other connectors.


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SKl;12899176*
> Thanks for the help guys,
> I dont really want to try the saw method after seeing your injury lol.


I'm not ready to give up completely on the little saws. The first and last 1" of the tool is just plain flat. So tonight I wrapped the scary part with several layers of masking tape, but I'm going to wait to try again for a day or two, still.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12886874*
> @cyclometric... Most expensive cheap tool in the history of sleeving I imagine. You're gonna consider this lesson learned and buy the cheapest ATX tool you can get your hands on now right? Sorry bout the war wound though. And damn glad I never tried it at the same time.
> 
> I saw that Vid and knowing what I know about tools, I never even considered it. I did try the diaper pin tool and staples so I'm not bein judgmental. If you can do it cheap that's one thing, but if it looks like it can maim you in the process, it's probably not a good idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been maimed by sandpaper(during my CPU lapp) so take it for what it's worth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Absolutely. I do suppose that unless I find my masking tape trick works great and I feel totally confident about the saw again, that I'll break down and buy (a third) molex tool. I tried the flimsy ones that everyone has seen, twice. After breaking the first one, and practicing successfully with some stapes, I figured I would know better than to break the tool again. I was wrong. It's awfully easy to break them. Supposedly, ACRyan makes one that's better, at least, that is what the advertising copy says. From the picture, it looks exactly like the notoriously break-y ones, but anyone's experience with the ACRyan version would be great. Otherwise, I think either the FrozenCPU made one, or the Sunbeam kit seem to be the next best (sturdy) options.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CramComplex;12893381*
> I'm using a sculptors tool to remove the pins as opposed to hair-pins and specialty pin removers. It's like a long needle and all I do is move the pin up and down the sides until I can feel the locking part and just push down on it. Takes less than 5 secs to remove a pin.


Could you post a picture of that? Maybe worth checking into getting one of those... Heck, I'm up for getting anything I find that _works_. . . oh yeah, and works without risk of another ER visit!


----------



## SKl

Ahh ok i might give it a go,
I think i some similar sized blades lying around.
Does it just need to be broader than a staple for the corsair psu's?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyclometric;12899301*
> I'm not ready to give up completely on the little saws. The first and last 1" of the tool is just plain flat. So tonight I wrapped the scary part with several layers of masking tape, but I'm going to wait to try again for a day or two, still.
> 
> Absolutely. I do suppose that unless I find my masking tape trick works great and I feel totally confident about the saw again, that I'll break down and buy (a third) molex tool. I tried the flimsy ones that everyone has seen, twice. After breaking the first one, and practicing successfully with some stapes, I figured I would know better than to break the tool again. I was wrong. It's awfully easy to break them. Supposedly, ACRyan makes one that's better, at least, that is what the advertising copy says. From the picture, it looks exactly like the notoriously break-y ones, but anyone's experience with the ACRyan version would be great. Otherwise, I think either the FrozenCPU made one, or the Sunbeam kit seem to be the next best (sturdy) options.
> 
> *snippers*
> 
> Could you post a picture of that? Maybe worth checking into getting one of those... Heck, I'm up for getting anything I find that _works_. . . oh yeah, and works without risk of another ER visit!


I have the one in the Frozen CPU link. It's an awesome tool when you remove it from the block. I just slide it into the connector wiggle the blades up and down along the pin to secure the tabs, let go of the tool while leaving it in place and hold the connector while applying pressure to the cable. As long as you don't jerk the cable too hard the pin tool will remain intact. I was considering buying the MDCP one but with the shipping on top of the 25 Euro price tag it's almost as much as I saw it for here in the States when the conversion rate is factored in. I think the last time I looked at the molex brand it was $48 before shipping.:weirdsmi

It MAY be a great tool, several members here have it. But that's too steep for my blood.

I did get the brass tubes that Nils supplied and put them together the exact way he shows but with a wire connector crimper and two crimps and took a piece of leftover sleeve for grip instead of straight shrink. That's an awesome cheap tool. I love it. I'll have to post some pics of it in action.









Well anyway I believe that is the one you're looking at(ACRyan). I only use the block to protect the the dual pin. I leave the single pin out when I store it. It's not as important to a successful sleeving job of a PSU.


















You can get cheaper shipping if you get it from performance-pcs.com but it's not a larg savings. Just think though you can buy a lighter with that savings. Can't tell you how many of those I went through in one job.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12899508*
> Well anyway I believe that is the one you're looking at(ACRyan). I only use the block to protect the the dual pin. I leave the single pin out when I store it. It's not as important to a successful sleeving job of a PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can get cheaper shipping if you get it from performance-pcs.com but it's not a larg savings. Just think though you can buy a lighter with that savings. Can't tell you how many of those I went through in one job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I'm glad you confirmed the frozen cpu tool is decent. I might get that one. Re: the ACRyan tool, I meant this one, actually it's on ppcs, not fcpu







.

On this page

It's the description that makes it sound so good, but unless someone else is brave enough to actually buy one and tell me, I think I'll go with Frozen CPU's sturdy looking version.







This text is basically ad copy, and I haven't been able to find a review so who knows if it is actually any different from all the other tools that look exactly like it.
This Toolx™ Pin Remover for ATX is designed with 2 FlexTip™. You can bedn them easily to the exact width of the pins, but they will be strong enough to push into the connectors. The FlexTips™ do NOT break easily so no worries there. If your FlexTips™ are bent, simply bent them back.  Flexxxxxxible!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyclometric;12899723*
> I'm glad you confirmed the frozen cpu tool is decent. I might get that one. Re: the ACRyan tool, I meant this one, actually it's on ppcs, not fcpu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> On this page
> 
> It's the description that makes it sound so good, but unless someone else is brave enough to actually buy one and tell me, I think I'll go with Frozen CPU's sturdy looking version.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This text is basically ad copy, and I haven't been able to find a review so who knows if it is actually any different from all the other tools that look exactly like it.
> This Toolx™ Pin Remover for ATX is designed with 2 FlexTip™. You can bedn them easily to the exact width of the pins, but they will be strong enough to push into the connectors. The FlexTips™ do NOT break easily so no worries there. If your FlexTips™ are bent, simply bent them back.  Flexxxxxxible!


That's kewl. The pic I posted however is the same tool and it's on both sites. I went with PPCs to save a bit of money on shipping.









Wherever you get it from it is a great little tool.









Kay back to my NCIS show before I todder off to la la land.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## SKl

Ive been told to use a needle with small bit of pipe which apprantly works really well







.
Ill make one and put some pics up.


----------



## Cmoney

Just a few quick questions that have probably already been answer somewhere in this 400+ page thread, lol....

I am looking into getting some black Clean Cut sleeving from FurryLetters on eBay... first, 100ft seems like a lot, I just want to double check that it is enough to do most PSUs (I need to do my 24pin, 3 x 8 pins, 5 fans, and my FP connectors). Second, where can I get the best heatshrink for this type of sleeving? Finally, is there any way of sleeving a 24pin that is not modular without opening up the PSU (I am trying to preserve the warranty, but my 24pin and Mobo 8pin are the only thing that are not modular on my PSU)?


----------



## mastical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cmoney;12944630*
> Just a few quick questions that have probably already been answer somewhere in this 400+ page thread, lol....
> 
> I am looking into getting some black Clean Cut sleeving from FurryLetters on eBay... first, 100ft seems like a lot, I just want to double check that it is enough to do most PSUs (I need to do my 24pin, 3 x 8 pins, 5 fans, and my FP connectors). Second, where can I get the best heatshrink for this type of sleeving? Finally, is there any way of sleeving a 24pin that is not modular without opening up the PSU (I am trying to preserve the warranty, but my 24pin and Mobo 8pin are the only thing that are not modular on my PSU)?


I ordered about 150 ft to do my psu, had some extra too but thats good.

The best heatshrink is MDPC-X.

You can sleeve your 24 pin but where the cables meet the psu most people just bunch them together with a large piece of heatshrink so you dont have to open the psu.

I hope that makes sence.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cmoney;12944630*
> Just a few quick questions that have probably already been answer somewhere in this 400+ page thread, lol....
> 
> I am looking into getting some black Clean Cut sleeving from FurryLetters on eBay... first, 100ft seems like a lot, I just want to double check that it is enough to do most PSUs (I need to do my 24pin, 3 x 8 pins, 5 fans, and my FP connectors). Second, where can I get the best heatshrink for this type of sleeving? Finally, is there any way of sleeving a 24pin that is not modular without opening up the PSU (I am trying to preserve the warranty, but my 24pin and Mobo 8pin are the only thing that are not modular on my PSU)?


I ordered 160 meters of MDPC to do my system and it isn't even enough. My PCI cables on my PSU I sleeved with SATA sleeve because I couldn't stand the thought of sleeving the rest of the PSU and leaving that stock. The SATA sleeving fit 8 cables perfectly and since it was MDPC you can't even tell what colors the cables are through the sleeving. Nobody but you guys will notice because I hid the cables between the PSU and the MoBo Tray.









Get as much as you can possibly afford. If you have a little extra, put it to good use and sleeve your fans and I/O cables.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cmoney;12944630*
> Just a few quick questions that have probably already been answer somewhere in this 400+ page thread, lol....
> 
> I am looking into getting some black Clean Cut sleeving from FurryLetters on eBay... first, 100ft seems like a lot, I just want to double check that it is enough to do most PSUs (I need to do my 24pin, 3 x 8 pins, 5 fans, and my FP connectors). Second, where can I get the best heatshrink for this type of sleeving? Finally, is there any way of sleeving a 24pin that is not modular without opening up the PSU (I am trying to preserve the warranty, but my 24pin and Mobo 8pin are the only thing that are not modular on my PSU)?


Measure the length of each cable bundle, multiply that by the number of wires in each bundle, add all of that together, then add 10-20% extra to determine the amount of sleeve that you will need. For the heatshrink you'll need between 5/8 and 3/4" at each end of a wire plus 2 for each Sata or Molex IDE power connector. Add about 40% extra since you'll more than likely waste more heatshrink than you will sleeve.


----------



## MijnWraak

Thank you everyone who has ever posted in this thread, especially those who posted pictures of their art, for helping us win "Thread of the Month"! Shall we hold the party now or this weekend?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


Thank you everyone who has ever posted in this thread, especially those who posted pictures of their art, for helping us win "Thread of the Month"! Shall we hold the party now or this weekend?










As a Hall of Famer and my favorite Receiver to play the game of Football once said...

BOYS WE GONNA PARTAY TONITE!!!









~Ceadder


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


Thank you everyone who has ever posted in this thread, especially those who posted pictures of their art, for helping us win "Thread of the Month"! Shall we hold the party now or this weekend?










Good job brah! And to everyone that contributes.


----------



## fshizl

the show must go on...


----------



## Kortwa

Nice. Getting the grey sata cables really helps the color not bleed through the white sleeving as much


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kortwa;12951009*
> Nice. Getting the grey sata cables really helps the color not bleed through the white sleeving as much


i still used the white electrical tape... lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice. Can't even tell. Didja wrap it along the axis(straight up the middle from connector to connector) or did you barber pole it with one or many strips?









Whichever it is, thas lookin good. Almost wish I'da used white for my SATAs'.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## fshizl

one long strip longways on the cable...

suprisingly, the width of the tape is as wide as the cable... were the tape met when i folded it was right next to itself...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;12960951*
> one long strip longways on the cable...
> 
> suprisingly, the width of the tape is as wide as the cable... were the tape met when i folded it was right next to itself...


Wow. The black ET I use is pretty wide. Couldn't get it to fold properly so I didn't even use it. Not like you can tell since the sleeving is Black.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## oc_geek

Hi guys,
need someone opinion on which is best technique to follow when you have 2 wires







going in a pin ?

I have Seasonic X-760 and there are some double wired pins. Other connectors have same approach too (e.g. PCI-E).










I'm kinda skared to either break pin







when crimping (too much bare wire in the connector) or puzzled on how to heatshrink them after (would look not like the other single wires)

Thanks for helping out

P.S. I just did my first 2xSata w/ MDPC and i'm pretty satisfied only thing to fit wires into the connectors "V" it's a bit PITA...


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


the show must go on...


Hi fshlzl








Looks like you have a Seaonic too. 
Looking better to the pic (very nice tones btw) i realized u did what i think is an Y coupling along cable







is that right ?
Did you solder wires together and heatshrinked on top of each Y branch or else...looks interesting way to achieve clean "multiwires per pin"








U did the same for the PCI-E

thanks in advance


----------



## Ceadderman

I separated at the Pin and Recrimped new pins on. It takes some practice but once you get it, it's pretty simple to master. Just make sure to buy enough pins and a decent crimping tool, if you go this route. At least enough pins that you won't care too much if you unintentionally frag a couple of them.









I did it with all three leads and separated them from the group so I could have a better sleeve job.

~Ceadder


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oc_geek;12971140*
> Hi fshlzl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like you have a Seaonic too.
> Looking better to the pic (very nice tones btw) i realized u did what i think is an Y coupling along cable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is that right ?
> Did you solder wires together and heatshrinked on top of each Y branch or else...looks interesting way to achieve clean "multiwires per pin"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> U did the same for the PCI-E
> 
> thanks in advance


I did it this way.
http://www.overclock.net/12134231-post3358.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


I did it this way.
http://www.overclock.net/12134231-post3358.html


Hey Rags just to let ya know, the client's system is still on the workbench. Should be off it by Tuesday at the latest. We're putting Win 7 on his system and then have to carefully allow only the updates that don't change the Drivers to Windows ignorant specifications. Unfortunately there was no way to do that with XP SP3. Makes me want to go directly to Gates house and sock him in his mug.









~Ceadder


----------



## fshizl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oc_geek*


Hi fshlzl








Looks like you have a Seaonic too. 
Looking better to the pic (very nice tones btw) i realized u did what i think is an Y coupling along cable







is that right ?
Did you solder wires together and heatshrinked on top of each Y branch or else...looks interesting way to achieve clean "multiwires per pin"








U did the same for the PCI-E

thanks in advance


Yeah just a straight Y connector..


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


Yeah just a straight Y connector..


Sorry to bother you again and thanks for reply...look i'm a bit dumb these days









Can you elaborate a bit more on streight "Y" connector ? So i't's not soldering job but something different right ?

Thanks again. The end result looks really nice and clean man!! Weel done


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


I did it this way.
http://www.overclock.net/12134231-post3358.html


Rag,
i understand the drawing and idea behind but i was kinda looking for how to realize it... schematic didn't help on that side

Thanks again


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I separated at the Pin and Recrimped new pins on. It takes some practice but once you get it, it's pretty simple to master. Just make sure to buy enough pins and a decent crimping tool, if you go this route. At least enough pins that you won't care too much if you unintentionally frag a couple of them.









I did it with all three leads and separated them from the group so I could have a better sleeve job.

~Ceadder










I thought of this option too as it is the way those bast... are mounted now in the stoc cable/connector

however what concerns me is if than i would be able fir the two crimped together cables (which will have their own heatshrink on top) into the pin hole. 
Looking to the current gap of the two mated cables (the stoc are not heatshinked indeed) there is any space left...already
That why i was moving towards an Y solution along the cable instead.

Thanks for feedback


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oc_geek*


Sorry to bother you again and thanks for reply...look i'm a bit dumb these days









Can you elaborate a bit more on streight "Y" connector ? So i't's not soldering job but something different right ?

Thanks again. The end result looks really nice and clean man!! Weel done










You basically clean off a section of insulation. Then you cut back the insulation on the smaller lead and solder it to the exposed section. You need to do this at both ends of the cable. I would just shrink over both ends and then single sleeve it. But some people prefer to sleeve every bit.

I know that the smaller lead doesn't carry much of a load if any but I don't trust increasing the load of an 18ga load bearing cable. Probably doesn't make any difference since both ends go to the same terminal, I'm just not too keen about it.









~Ceadder


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


You basically clean off a section of insulation. Then you cut back the insulation on the smaller lead and solder it to the exposed section. You need to do this at both ends of the cable. I would just shrink over both ends and then single sleeve it. But some people prefer to sleeve every bit.

I know that the smaller lead doesn't carry much of a load if any but I don't trust increasing the load of an 18ga load bearing cable. Probably doesn't make any difference since both ends go to the same terminal, I'm just not too keen about it.









~Ceadder










If i understand you are talkin of double wiring a circuit from A to B
I'm instead looking t osplitting a circuit starting in A and going to B AND C. THat's how the Seasonic wiring is done. I can't single sleeve those as those go in different places, you see... I would agree with you on the double wiring instead.

Thanks


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oc_geek*


If i understand you are talkin of double wiring a circuit from A to B
I'm instead looking t osplitting a circuit starting in A and going to B AND C. THat's how the Seasonic wiring is done. I can't single sleeve those as those go in different places, you see... I would agree with you on the double wiring instead.

Thanks


M'kay gotcha. The Corsair HX line runs them to the same pin from two different locations. But yeah that's what you would do. You can't single sleeve your duals like I can mine.









~Ceadder


----------



## SKl

On the corsairs (ax850) are the locking pins on the top and botom or at the sides?
Im a tad confused and cant see much in the connector.
THanks









(sorry if this doesnt make much sense im still drunk from last night :/)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKl*


On the corsairs (ax850) are the locking pins on the top and botom or at the sides?
Im a tad confused and cant see much in the connector.
THanks









(sorry if this doesnt make much sense im still drunk from last night :/)


They're like all connectors. On the sides.









~Ceadder


----------



## raZel

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sle...sleeve-kit.htm

I was looking at getting this package.... has anyone bought this before? 
I have 2 HDD's and 2 Gpu's and a modular PSU

I know its a hard questions (new to all this sleeving) but is this enough supplies to cover everything?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Hey Rags just to let ya know, the client's system is still on the workbench. Should be off it by Tuesday at the latest. We're putting Win 7 on his system and then have to carefully allow only the updates that don't change the Drivers to Windows ignorant specifications. Unfortunately there was no way to do that with XP SP3. Makes me want to go directly to Gates house and sock him in his mug.









~Ceadder










Thanks for the update! I'll just sit here waiting patiently.


----------



## SKl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12982565*
> They're like all connectors. On the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


thanks


----------



## fshizl

oc_geek...

Okay, it is soldering the ends of the wires together... after the solder I use heatshrink, to cover the bare soldered metal.

Then after that, I single sleeved it and heatshrinked the sleeving on...

then after that I used sata heatshrink to heatshrink over the entire work, so it looks like one piece.


----------



## Philistine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raZel;12982924*
> http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve-kits-+-tools/sleeve-kits/mdpc-sleeve-kit.htm
> 
> I was looking at getting this package.... has anyone bought this before?
> I have 2 HDD's and 2 Gpu's and a modular PSU
> 
> I know its a hard questions (new to all this sleeving) but is this enough supplies to cover everything?


You'll probably need more (~150ft total, the kit has 98ft). From the page you linked:
Quote:


> Is it enough for my complete system?
> If you have a more complex system or want to sleeve every cable individually from the beginning to the end (not using the BIG-Sleeve anymore): Just grab some more of the SMALL-Sleeve and SMALL-Heatshrink here at MDPC-X. An additional 10-20 meter pack of SMALL-Sleeve and 1-2 meter of SMALL-Heatshrink is always a good choice. You will see that it's better to have more than less, because the spirit of perfection inside of you is stronger than you might imagine ... and you won't accept any mistakes you did during the beginning of your sleeving-journey - believe me


----------



## raZel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Philistine;12988987*
> You'll probably need more (~150ft total, the kit has 98ft). From the page you linked:


So the kit that i linked.... im really new to this and im trying my best to understand it... Im just a little confused... if i wanna individually sleeve all my cables... is this the right kit to do so, or will parts be wasted...
For the extra 60 odd feet or so of sleeving i need... what size do i get? would a 2nd kit be a waste?

Cheers


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raZel;12994534*
> So the kit that i linked.... im really new to this and im trying my best to understand it... Im just a little confused... if i wanna individually sleeve all my cables... is this the right kit to do so, or will parts be wasted...
> For the extra 60 odd feet or so of sleeving i need... what size do i get? would a 2nd kit be a waste?
> 
> Cheers


98ft ain't near enough sleeve for an average PSU.

This formula should help you figure out what you need.

(X=Measure your cables)(Y=number of cables)+20%=(A=total amount necessary)

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## raZel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12994585*
> 98ft ain't near enough sleeve for an average PSU.
> 
> This formula should help you figure out what you need.
> 
> (X=Measure your cables)(Y=number of cables)+20%=(A=total amount necessary)
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


CRAP lol my cables are all connected lol i kinda didn't wanna take em all out just to measure em... lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raZel;12994601*
> CRAP lol my cables are all connected lol i kinda didn't wanna take em all out just to measure em... lol


I hear ya bruh. Best time to deal with that stuff is when the system is powered down for maintenance. i.e. Filters etc.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;12986569*
> oc_geek...
> 
> Okay, it is soldering the ends of the wires together... after the solder I use heatshrink, to cover the bare soldered metal.
> 
> Then after that, I single sleeved it and heatshrinked the sleeving on...
> 
> then after that I used sata heatshrink to heatshrink over the entire work, so it looks like one piece.


Thanks for helping on this one got it now !









Will do the same i like your approach, very clean.

Thanks again


----------



## oc_geek

Hei guys yout one other thing came to mind

I did (power) SATA cables with the "push in" connector, i mean the one that u push cable in it and "bites" the wire
I used a small flat skrewdriver to press down the wire with the flat head into the "V" but it's PITA to push cable in (OD is around 2mm so not big one either) and i found sometimes u get really close to ruin







the insulation with the skdrv which btw i ended up one one of the wires









It was kinda test the workflow for the real cable (when i measure the leght) but was wondering







if you have some better way for this if u don't mind me asking

I seens someone suggest to softly push wire, mark bites and cut insultaor there with some knife or so...is this good idea ? Anything more handy ?

Thanks in adv


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oc_geek;12997722*
> Hei guys yout one other thing came to mind
> 
> I did (power) SATA cables with the "push in" connector, i mean the one that u push cable in it and "bites" the wire
> I used a small flat skrewdriver to press down the wire with the flat head into the "V" but it's PITA to push cable in (OD is around 2mm so not big one either) and i found sometimes u get really close to ruin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the insulation with the skdrv which btw i ended up one one of the wires
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was kinda test the workflow for the real cable (when i measure the leght) but was wondering
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if you have some better way for this if u don't mind me asking
> 
> I seens someone suggest to softly push wire, mark bites and cut insultaor there with some knife or so...is this good idea ? Anything more handy ?
> 
> Thanks in adv


I found the best way to do it is to use a medium tip flat blade screwdriver hold the tip horizontal to the gap, put a finger tip on the flat portion holding the other end not by the handle but as though you're holding a chopstick. Press in with your finger as you apply pressure with your other hand as you lift the handle vertical. You'll feel it when the metal in the SATA housing bites into the insulation. Once it does you can apply pressure as needed using the handle of the Screwdriver.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raZel;12994601*
> CRAP lol my cables are all connected lol i kinda didn't wanna take em all out just to measure em... lol


Go to the PSU manufacturer's website and look up your PSU. They normally have the cable lengths listed there in the specs.


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12997839*
> I found the best way to do it is to use a medium tip flat blade screwdriver hold the tip horizontal to the gap, put a finger tip on the flat portion holding the other end not by the handle but as though you're holding a chopstick. Press in with your finger as you apply pressure with your other hand as you lift the handle vertical. You'll feel it when the metal in the SATA housing bites into the insulation. Once it does you can apply pressure as needed using the handle of the Screwdriver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


mmm...let's see if i got u

so you initially keep the skdrv kinda of horizontal by putting hands on the flat blade and lenght (other side)
you start this way laing the wire over the V than if i understand it right u put more pressure on ONE side of the wire and V and by that the handle lifts up (like lever i mean) once that side gets deeper you keep the flat blade at a fixed heigh and you lever down the skrewdriver so ALL the wire gets trapped, right ?








The skdrv that shall have a "body" (i don't know the english) that fits into the V and the connector shall be kept fixed down steady by e.g. peace of excavated wood i assume

Thanks Ceadder


----------



## rck1984

I decided to sleeve all my PSU cables to match my Black and White HAF-922 color scheme, later this month i will also build my first waterloop with white tubing.

Now i am wondering and would like to hear some idea's / suggestions about what color sleeves to pick because i am not sure what to do.

Sleeves i am looking at are MDPC ones:

- Black
- White
- Aquamarine










Should i go for all 3 the colors and mix it? or would it be overkill and go for Black/White, Black/Blue or White/Blue for example? Also how much of each should do i need to order? would 10meter be enough for each color, sounds pretty much to me considering cables are max about 50cm each?What do you guys think?

Currently my case looks as followed:


















Keep in mind, the 5850 shroud will be removed for a GPU waterblock, and the PSU will be either complete black or black with white striping. And the watercooling loop will have white tubing.

Your thoughts? Cheers in advance


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rck1984*


I decided to sleeve all my PSU cables to match my Black and White HAF-922 color scheme, later this month i will also build my first waterloop with white tubing.

Now i am wondering and would like to hear some idea's / suggestions about what color sleeves to pick because i am not sure what to do.

Sleeves i am looking at are MDPC ones:

- Black
- White
- Aquamarine

Should i go for all 3 the colors and mix it? or would it be overkill and go for Black/White, Black/Blue or White/Blue for example? Also how much of each should do i need to order? would 10meter be enough for each color, sounds pretty much to me considering cables are max about 50cm each?What do you guys think?

Currently my case looks as followed:

Keep in mind, the 5850 shroud will be removed for a GPU waterblock, and the PSU will be either complete black or black with white striping. And the watercooling loop will have white tubing.

Your thoughts? Cheers in advance










I would mix them but uneven 
like most of sleeve be black and every 2-3 use colour like blue and than white 
that i think would call the color scheme of your setup without "overshooting" colours (there is already quite an amount of blue in there i mean)
That however is just my 2 cents and pers pref


----------



## raZel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Go to the PSU manufacturer's website and look up your PSU. They normally have the cable lengths listed there in the specs.


http://www.antec.com/Believe_it/product.php?id=NTg=

Nah they didn't have anything that i can see....
GRRRR i dont want to pull the psu out just to measure it, SURELY someone has sleeved a system similar to mine and knows how much sleeving they ordered...


----------



## Philistine

Got my paracord today and practiced sleeving on a 4-pin molex adapter from an old PSU.


























Also played a bit with braiding the wires.


















My DIY sleeving dispenser.


----------



## grassh0ppa

Paypal got my money so I'm about to order a shipment of sleeve for my Seasonic X-760 which i plan on ordering soon.

Do you think 30 meters (about 100 feet) of sleeve and 150 precut pieces of heatshrink will be enough for the job? I probably won't be using every cable since I only have 1 GPU (a 2nd in the future), 1 HDD (plus an SSD in the future).

It's fully modular so i'd need more heatshrink but less sleeve than normal i imagine. 50 pieces for the 24 pin, 50 for the other cables (8 Pin, GPU, HDD), 50 for peripherals, redos and extras is my estimate.

I also wanted to sleeve the sata cables... I would only be using 3 i think... including the HDD, CD/DVD, and the future SSD. How much sleeve and shrink would i need for that? I'm guessing 5m would be more than enough.


----------



## raZel

FOUND! Antec Truepower Quattro 850W

- Molex: 9 Connectors (modular)
o 3x 33" (3 connectors each)

- SATA: 8 Connectors (modular)
o 2x 33" length (3 connectors each)
o 1x 27 1/2'' length (2 connectors)

- PCI-E 6+2 Pin: 2 Connectors
o 2x 21" length

- PCI-E 6 Pin: 2 Connectors (modular)
o 2x 21" length

- 4-Pin Floppy: 2 Connector
o 2x 39'' length (at end of each Molex cable)

- 20+4 ATX Connector: 22" length

- 8 Pin CPU connector: 21" length

- 4 Pin CPU connector: 22" length 
Here are my cable lengths... now i gotta get around the maths of adding it up REALLY REALLY not my good side... anyone wanna gimme a hand lol


----------



## raZel

The things from that list that I DONT NEED:
1 Molex @ 33"
2x SATA @ 33"

soooooo 99" lol YAY im getting there....


----------



## PapaSmurf

See the JonnyGuru review. They list the cables at the bottom of the first page.

Crap. You found the info while I was looking for it.


----------



## raZel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


See the JonnyGuru review. They list the cables at the bottom of the first page.

Crap. You found the info while I was looking for it.


PERFECT!!!! Thank you SOOOOOO much... +rep


----------



## grassh0ppa

found the X-760 PSU cable lengths. Looks like Ill have more than enough.


----------



## raZel

Something isn't right.... just doing my individual sleeving on the psu i need 344 feet ?thats seems like a hell of alot


----------



## PapaSmurf

That doesn't sound that far off to me. I see a lot of people needing about that amount.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *raZel*


Something isn't right.... just doing my individual sleeving on the psu i need 344 feet ?thats seems like a hell of alot


(24+24+8[modular])24")/12)+20%=What exactly? I come up with roughly(mental math)150 ft.

Yup 344 is too much. But can never really have too much when it comes to sleeving. My apologies for skipping the division step earlier.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa*


Paypal got my money so I'm about to order a shipment of sleeve for my Seasonic X-760 which i plan on ordering soon.

Do you think 30 meters (about 100 feet) of sleeve and 150 precut pieces of heatshrink will be enough for the job? I probably won't be using every cable since I only have 1 GPU (a 2nd in the future), 1 HDD (plus an SSD in the future).

It's fully modular so i'd need more heatshrink but less sleeve than normal i imagine. 50 pieces for the 24 pin, 50 for the other cables (8 Pin, GPU, HDD), 50 for peripherals, redos and extras is my estimate.

I also wanted to sleeve the sata cables... I would only be using 3 i think... including the HDD, CD/DVD, and the future SSD. How much sleeve and shrink would i need for that? I'm guessing 5m would be more than enough.


You're looking at about 60 meters of sleeve. So if you're using two colors figure out which is your Base and which is your highlight colors. You'll want 40m Base and 20m Highlight depending on what you wish to sleeve your fans and I/O cables with. If you want a bit more highlight then I suggest 70m(40/30) so you won't run out of Base.

5m SATA sleeve is more than enough but get 3 lengths of SATA shrink. I went through a few pieces more than I thought I would in the beginning cause they kept splitting under the heat. doh:

Oh and you will want approx. 1 meter of shrink for every 10 meters of sleeve, but err on the side of caution with this stuff. It's good stuff but I guarantee that you'll run into a snag. Like not liking the initial result and having this need to clean it up. Besides what you can't use I'm sure someone will need. My next order from MDPC I'm gonna get 3+2 extra per color. That way I can help when people needs it.









Finger since I'll already be paying the shipping a couple extra shrink isn't going to make that big an impact.









~Ceadder


----------



## grassh0ppa

60m? I only ordered 30m lol.

oh well. ill just do the main parts first


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa*


60m? I only ordered 30m lol.

oh well. ill just do the main parts first










If you ordered it from Nils at MDPC-X send him an e-mail that you want to modify your order. If he hasn't shipped it out yet he can probably adjust it to accommodate the extra you need. He's a really nice sort of chap and I'm sure he would do what he could to help you out.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


If you ordered it from Nils at MDPC-X send him an e-mail that you want to modify your order. If he hasn't shipped it out yet he can probably adjust it to accommodate the extra you need. He's a really nice sort of chap and I'm sure he would do what he could to help you out.


Yet he ships within a hour of your ordering >_>

Haha he's a great guy though.


----------



## grassh0ppa

alright I emailed him. If i can add omre sleeving do you think i should get more heatshrink as well? I'm getting the precut (totally worth it, imo) and already have 150 pieces ordered. Seems like more than enough to me but who knows?


----------



## PapaSmurf

I would get more if it was me. You can always sell what you don't use here on OCN as someone is usually looking for some.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13005465*
> I would get more if it was me. You can always sell what you don't use here on OCN as someone is usually looking for some.


This.

I have a great method for cutting his shrink also. Mark out your 10 to 15mm marks like this... |__|_| on your work surface using a pencil(see Ma, washes right off







) Then when you're ready to make your cut lay out your shrink across the marks and using your pointer finger line up the cut end on the mark you wish to cut for. 1st mark is your cut line, second mark is 10mm, 3rd mark is 15mm. Grab your razor blade and without putting pressure on it , lay the edge smoothly across the area you'll be cutting. Pinch the backside of the blade and slowly pinch the shrink between the blade and your work surface. Don't saw back and forth. Just apply pressure and the blade will do the rest. A new blade will work it's way through both sides of the shrink in no time flat, you won't have any uneven cuts either.









Soon as I get the work surface free, working on the client rig right now. I'll haul my rig over here and put together a tutorial on how to get the cleanest bestest cuts around.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984;13000414*
> I decided to sleeve all my PSU cables to match my Black and White HAF-922 color scheme, later this month i will also build my first waterloop with white tubing.
> 
> Now i am wondering and would like to hear some idea's / suggestions about what color sleeves to pick because i am not sure what to do.
> 
> Sleeves i am looking at are MDPC ones:
> 
> - Black
> - White
> - Aquamarine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should i go for all 3 the colors and mix it? or would it be overkill and go for Black/White, Black/Blue or White/Blue for example? Also how much of each should do i need to order? would 10meter be enough for each color, sounds pretty much to me considering cables are max about 50cm each?What do you guys think?
> 
> Currently my case looks as followed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, the 5850 shroud will be removed for a GPU waterblock, and the PSU will be either complete black or black with white striping. And the watercooling loop will have white tubing.
> 
> Your thoughts? Cheers in advance


Kind of bumping my own post to get more opinions of you guys, sorry









I am leaning towards complete white to keep it clean and simple, something black/white stands for imo. Though the Black with a blue/white highlight here and there sounds nice too.

Id like to hear some more opinions about it before i start with this time consuming thing, cba doing all over again when i dont like the color choice, lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

Do eet already.









Go Black for Base, Blue and white highlights.

My 24 pin has 4 red leads the rest are black. So if it were my system and I were to use your colors I would divide it by 3 so 8 of those leads would be Blue and white and then the rest go back into the black side of things. So you'd have 15 black leads in the 25 pin and 8 to be split out as you see fit.

My 8 pin MoBo PWR is 50/50. The PCI leads are hidden but I would make those Black with white predominant in 1 and Black with Blue predominant on the other.

Also I love the negative look. So I alternated my shrink accordingly.

If you want some inspiration just check out "My HAF 932







YouTube Vid" in my sig. You'll get to listen to a wicked tune and see what it all looks like.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13008090*
> Do eet already.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Go Black for Base, Blue and white highlights.
> 
> My 24 pin has 4 red leads the rest are black. So if it were my system and I were to use your colors I would divide it by 3 so 8 of those leads would be Blue and white and then the rest go back into the black side of things. So you'd have 15 black leads in the 25 pin and 8 to be split out as you see fit.
> 
> My 8 pin MoBo PWR is 50/50. The PCI leads are hidden but I would make those Black with white predominant in 1 and Black with Blue predominant on the other.
> 
> Also I love the negative look. So I alternated my shrink accordingly.
> 
> If you want some inspiration just check out "My HAF 932
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> YouTube Vid" in my sig. You'll get to listen to a wicked tune and see what it all looks like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Thanks for your reply, gonna take a look at your vid right now


----------



## SKl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raZel;13004140*
> Something isn't right.... just doing my individual sleeving on the psu i need 344 feet ?thats seems like a hell of alot


Yeah i ordered 100m for mine,
my front panel wires= 15m alone







.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SKl;13008235*
> Yeah i ordered 100m for mine,
> my front panel wires= 15m alone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Shoot I think mine were 20m easy. Splains why I didn't have enough to finish all of my PSU and the 2 PCI leads are hidden, no?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## SKl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13008303*
> Shoot I think mine were 20m easy. Splains why I didn't have enough to finish all of my PSU and the 2 PCI leads are hidden, no?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:











Yeah they use up a lot,

the 1394 is also a PITA to sleeve all those wires and its double headed







.

Ive also tried to use a needle on my ax850 but it doesnt work, ive given up and ordered the £15 tool lol.


----------



## rck1984

Talking about amount needed...

I have been counting for my PSU (not modular) i need about 40 meters of sleeve, counting about 50cm (some overhead as not all cables are 50cm each i think) each seperate cable/sleeve.

1x 24pin: *24 cables*
1x 4pin mainboard: *4 cables*
1x 8pin mainboard: *8 cables*
1x PCI-E 6pin: *6 cables*
1x PCI-E 8pin: *8 cables*
2x Peripheral Power 4pin: 2x4= *8 cables*
2x SATA power 5pin: 2x5= *10 cables*
4x I/O cable: *4 cables*
2x USB cable: *2 cables*

Total: *74 cables x 50cm = 37 meter* of cable, if i didnt overlook anything.
Leaves me 3 meter of cable to screw up and to sleeve a single fan.

I think that should be enough? ordering 50 meter could leave me with 10 meter too much.. what do you guys say?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984;13008903*
> Talking about amount needed...
> 
> I have been counting for my PSU (not modular) i need about 40 meters of sleeve, counting about 50cm (some overhead as not all cables are 50cm each i think) each seperate cable/sleeve.
> 
> 1x 24pin: *24 cables*
> 1x 4pin mainboard: *4 cables*
> 1x 8pin mainboard: *8 cables*
> 1x PCI-E 6pin: *6 cables*
> 1x PCI-E 8pin: *8 cables*
> 2x Peripheral Power 4pin: 2x4= *8 cables*
> 2x SATA power 5pin: 2x5= *10 cables*
> 4x I/O cable: *4 cables*
> 2x USB cable: *2 cables*
> 
> Total: *74 cables x 50cm = 37 meter* of cable, if i didnt overlook anything.
> Leaves me 3 meter of cable to screw up and to sleeve a single fan.
> 
> I think that should be enough? ordering 50 meter could leave me with 10 meter too much.. what do you guys say?


ALWAYS get a little extra... although you are close to the cherman people, so its up to you.

You always want to take in account mess ups and additional items you may not have thought of.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SKl;13008864*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah they use up a lot,
> 
> the 1394 is also a PITA to sleeve all those wires and its double headed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Ive also tried to use a needle on my ax850 but it doesnt work, ive given up and ordered the £15 tool lol.


Naw tis easy Mate. You just have to deal with the white connector. If you mess with the MoBo connection you could mess things up in a bad way. Or wait was that my HD Audio?







... well actually I think it was both. Well anyway I snipped off the '97 lead to my audio connection since my board has HD Audio. Unfortunately one of them(Apologies, late night gone daft from lack of sleep) has a big fat protective sleeve that I had to sleeve over with MDPC. Good thing it was a Black sleeve underneath.









Now remember insert the tool run it up and down a could times to slide the tabs into the pin and then let go of the tool. Grab the connector with one hand the lead with the other and slip it out without jerking on it. Otherwise pets, livestock and family aren't safe from a perforated eye ball. You shouldn't even have to mess with the tool much if you do it right.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## raZel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SKl;13008235*
> Yeah i ordered 100m for mine,
> my front panel wires= 15m alone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thats just my PSU thought, havn't added up my Case cables and fans yet... SIGH this seems like a TONNE of sleeving .. im definatly gonna double check this at a better hour to ensure i havn't screwed this up lol


----------



## grassh0ppa

Good news! Nils refunded my order!

I recalculated my needs based on this:

http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/3776/seasonic_x_760_760w_power_supply/index4.html

and estimate i need about 44m of sleeve and 136 pieces of shrink. I just got 60m and 200 pieces of shrink anyway. I cant do any trades but if it turns out I have extra I'll let you guys know.


----------



## SKl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13008989*
> Naw tis easy Mate. You just have to deal with the white connector. If you mess with the MoBo connection you could mess things up in a bad way. Or wait was that my HD Audio?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... well actually I think it was both. Well anyway I snipped off the '97 lead to my audio connection since my board has HD Audio. Unfortunately one of them(Apologies, late night gone daft from lack of sleep) has a big fat protective sleeve that I had to sleeve over with MDPC. Good thing it was a Black sleeve underneath.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now remember insert the tool run it up and down a could times to slide the tabs into the pin and then let go of the tool. Grab the connector with one hand the lead with the other and slip it out without jerking on it. Otherwise pets, livestock and family aren't safe from a perforated eye ball. You shouldn't even have to mess with the tool much if you do it right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Cheers makes sense the tool arrives tomorrow,
Ive sleeved all my other cables already just need to do the psu.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raZel;13009414*
> Thats just my PSU thought, havn't added up my Case cables and fans yet... SIGH this seems like a TONNE of sleeving .. im definatly gonna double check this at a better hour to ensure i havn't screwed this up lol


Yeah my psu if i do every single wire is something like 50M and then fans and other wires are about 25-30m and then ive got 10-20m spare i might sleeve some other stuff aswell it looks so good







.
This is 100m of sleeving btw


----------



## Buska103

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=60_143_272

Anything there good? I've been trying to use various methods (mostly staples) to get the damn pins out on a spare PSU I had lying around, and after an hour I still didn't get a single pin out...
assistance?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103;13012901*
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=60_143_272
> 
> Anything there good? I've been trying to use various methods (mostly staples) to get the damn pins out on a spare PSU I had lying around, and after an hour I still didn't get a single pin out...
> assistance?


I use the Lamptron tool kit and it works great.


----------



## SKl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103;13012901*
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=60_143_272
> 
> Anything there good? I've been trying to use various methods (mostly staples) to get the damn pins out on a spare PSU I had lying around, and after an hour I still didn't get a single pin out...
> assistance?


Yeah it seems some psu's are easy,
but some require the tool/it makes life a lot easier







.


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Buska103*


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ath=60_143_272

Anything there good? I've been trying to use various methods (mostly staples) to get the damn pins out on a spare PSU I had lying around, and after an hour I still didn't get a single pin out...
assistance?


I've blown through 2 of the ACRyan type ATX extractor tools and they do break very easily. I got this one last week; it is a good tool, sturdier than the cheapest one. It seems that no tool is super easy to use, though, so after refamiliarizing myself with how to extract those pins, I'd recommend practicing with staples or one of the other recommended DIY tools -- because even with a good tool, if you're not familiar with how to release the pins, you'll end up breaking the tool by forcing it, so it's best to get the feeling of how to get the pin out, and then the tool makes it go that much quicker.


----------



## Shane1244

... like 5 months later and I SITLL haven't sleeved my cables.. :// LAZY


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


... like 5 months later and I SITLL haven't sleeved my cables.. :// LAZY











Still looks orgasmic without sleeving


----------



## Lutro0

That reminds me, I never posted my finished PSU Sleeving / mod here.










Ok fixed. =) Just finished this puppy, and getting ready to start on another. I realized quickly that custom cables is a must for cable managment. =X

Link to the work log is in my sig.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Needs a bit more blue if you ask me.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Needs a bit more blue if you ask me.










+1 Looks good though. Maybe some powder blue shrink?









~Ceadder


----------



## Philistine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;13014927*
> That reminds me, I never posted my finished PSU Sleeving / mod here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok fixed. =) Just finished this puppy, and getting ready to start on another. I realized quickly that custom cables is a must for cable managment. =X
> 
> Link to the work log is in my sig.


The build is inspiring. Love it!


----------



## Famousoverdose

I actually bought extenders since I didnt want to mess with the cables. And this is what they loo like. So far, I love it. I just need to get the rest of them. Only have the 24 pin and 2 6 pins.


----------



## grassh0ppa

blue sleeving goes well with those asus boards


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;13017004*
> blue sleeving goes well with _*MOST of those*_ asus boards


Fixed.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## cyclometric

I sleeved my SATA power cable (modded Corsair modular cable from HX650) with 4 crimp-on connectors, and used both FurryLetters black cleancut and some neon green 550 paracord. It was sort of a test to see how the two different kinds of sleeving looked side by side, and I think they look fine. I find the paracord really hard to use if the wire to be sleeved is tough at all to slide through.

So though I started to use it on one of my front panel wires, I'm going to just mix it in with the black on my 24 pin, 8 pin & PCIE connectors, just as an accent. I had to pay careful attention to how the heatshrink fits on it, because using the same size HS at the same spot on the wire as the cleancut resulted in the two wires looking totally uneven. I started sleeving at the modular end of the cable, see how uneven those are? It's really just the HS on the greens that didn't line up with the HS on the black wires. But I got better and the rest of the cable came out pretty evenly.


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13019850*
> Fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Yea haha. A white/blue theme with the P67 Pro was my original idea. But I decided to go with the UD4 and some white sleeve to contrast the matte black board. I wont be ordering or building my rig for few more days at least, but when I do I'll be sure to post lots of cable pronz


----------



## SmasherBasher

Just ordered 2000' of black & white


----------



## Philistine

What the heck are you sleeving that you need 2000' for?


----------



## SmasherBasher

Hoping my wife will take a long walk out of a short plane


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*


Hoping my wife will take a long walk out of a short plane




















Is that MDPC? Hope not cause she'd bounce.









~Ceadder


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*


Just ordered 2000' of black & white











that is a tooooon!


----------



## fshizl




----------



## Copenhagen69

what kind is that? the green and dark blue look awesome!


----------



## fshizl

green is the new combat green, the dark blue is the grand blue...

heres another one...
combat green/copper brown/white/b-magic/violet/titanium grey/purple/grand blue










better shot...


----------



## Shane1244

ysomuch?"


----------



## fshizl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


ysomuch?"


future plans...


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


future plans...


wow cant wait to see what the plans are


----------



## PapaSmurf

He's going to sleeve the entire wiring harness of his car.


----------



## Copenhagen69

maybe all the cat5 cable in his house


----------



## PapaSmurf

I hope he has Cat 6. Cat 5 is so 1990's.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


maybe all the cat5 cable in his house










Maybe all the 3 core wires in the shop?









~Ceadder


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

I have Cat 7


----------



## Shane1244

I have 7 cats.


----------



## PapaSmurf

But is it sleeved?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


I have 7 cats.



My ex just ended up with 7 unwanted kittens last night.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

It's sleeved with love and hugs <3


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


My ex just ended up with 7 unwanted kittens last night.












Would love to sig that but my sig is full.









~Ceadder


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*


I have Cat 7


I have cat sank*. lol. Sorry, bad French puns are real joy, though. Like this one, 


> What do you call a bathroom when the light is out?
> 
> Jeanne d'arc


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*











Would love to sig that but my sig is full.









~Ceadder










Use thread links instead of url links and you can get a lot more information into a sig. Also, take out that external link to the TIM comparison that violates the Sig TOS and you would have enough room for it.


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13045160*
> Use thread links instead of url links and you can get a lot more information into a sig. Also, take out that external link to the TIM comparison that violates the Sig TOS and you would have enough room for it.


+Rep

I've been looking for those for a while.

Cheers - Jason.


----------



## fshizl




----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;13046592*
> *snip*


Which color is that, the Copper Brown? Your pic makes it much nicer looking.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Rowey

Here's my cables ready for my summer rig upgrade! hope you guys like!


----------



## SmasherBasher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


that is a tooooon!


No. Only 10 lbs


----------



## grassh0ppa

Hey, anyone know how long it takes for MDPC-X sleeving to reach Ontario, Canada (GTAish)? My sleeve is on it's way, but I won't be home until the 18th! I'm worried I'll have to pay a brokerage fee or something.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Roweyi7*


Here's my cables ready for my summer rig upgrade! hope you guys like!

-img snip-


I do like, very much so. Ive always like that color combo.


----------



## micul

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa*


Hey, anyone know how long it takes for MDPC-X sleeving to reach Ontario, Canada (GTAish)? My sleeve is on it's way, but I won't be home until the 18th! I'm worried I'll have to pay a brokerage fee or something.



hi

I ordered some sleeve on 6-march-2011. It took about 2 weeks to get it. I did not pay any brokerage fee.


----------



## mastical

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Roweyi7*


Here's my cables ready for my summer rig upgrade! hope you guys like!


very nice, If you lived in the states I would ask you to sleeve my cables for a fee.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastical;13060270*
> very nice, If you lived in the states I would ask you to sleeve my cables for a fee.


Incoming PM...

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Roweyi7*


Here's my cables ready for my summer rig upgrade! hope you guys like!











Oh I like, especially how well the heatshrink lines up. Excellent work.







:


----------



## Mr.Pie

quick question guys
how much sleeve would I need for this PSU?
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=138

looking to use a black&white pattern


----------



## mastical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Pie;13066319*
> quick question guys
> how much sleeve would I need for this PSU?
> http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=138
> 
> looking to use a black&white pattern


125-150'.

I used 125' to do my hx1000 and every wire in my case and still had some left over.


----------



## Mr.Pie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastical;13066497*
> 125-150'.
> 
> I used 125' to do my hx1000 and every wire in my case and still had some left over.


125-150 feet?

cheers


----------



## Infrabasse

Loving this thread. I'm browsing it all at the moment, and searching for mdpc blue combos examples. Like B-Magix + Aquamarine. Maybe someone can help me find this ?

Roweyi7 your sleeving is very clean, perfect alignment! Any tips you care to share for this result? Is this aquamarine blue you're using ?


----------



## Martin S




----------



## Infrabasse

Excellent, that 1st pic is just what I was after, thanks


----------



## Martin S

You are most welcome.









White, B-Magic:










B-Magic, Grand Bleu:


----------



## Ceadderman

I hate you Martin.







lol

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Infrabasse

The deep blue of that grand bleu is beautiful too.

It's to go with this board








inside a black box with white accents (a define R3)

I was thinking staggered B-Magix + Aquamarine with maybe some black or white for the fans and I/O

What do you guys think?
maybe Grand bleu / B-magic
or Grand bleu / aquamarine ?


----------



## Ceadderman

The Latter one... Actually I think BMagic/Aquamarine is the way to go.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Infrabasse

Think so too, although the white is mighty tempting too. I have no problem spray painting my cables if need be. I think I'll sleep over it, maybe play a bit with photoshop and make some side by side comparison.

I'll be using pretty think AWG16 on the 8 drive cage so white will probably need white cables to make sure theres no color leaking.


----------



## Nova.

Gah, I have to do a cable sleeving project this summer. First time I will be using MDPC in a while. I need to start planning xD.


----------



## fshizl




----------



## Ceadderman

Holy moly! San Francisco Giants Orange!!! I didn't realize that it was THAT color. You should submit that pic to Nils brother. That is gorgeous in that light.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13080896*
> Holy moly! San Francisco Giants Orange!!! I didn't realize that it was THAT color. You should submit that pic to Nils brother. That is gorgeous in that light.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Copper brown dude!!!


----------



## Ceadderman

World Champs! FTW!









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## AusPC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


Copper brown dude!!!










 I thought it was orange as well


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Crys1s_Gam3r*











MDPC-X FTW!










Any tips on sleeving these?

My cabling will be a little different though. Since I will have 8 drives back to back I'm using AWG16 (I think). The wire+insulator is 3mm in diameter. So thick it doesnt fit inside the insulator displacement connectors. 
I'll make it work by pushing the insulator aside myself and then jamming the copper inside the connector.


My drives/connectors will be 37mm appart, and since I'm using ugly wires I do want them sleeved all the way.

Any tips / recommended lengths are most welcome.
Shall I shrink with thin wall over the exposed copper wire+sleeve and then jam copper+shrink inside the connector, or should I rather use sleeve either side of the connector ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AusPC*


I thought it was orange as well










Naw I know it's not "orange" but in that light it's very similar to the MLB Giants Orange color.

Pretty sure Shiz responded like any Dodger or Padres fan would. By ribbin me back that it's "Copper Brown".







lol

If I were to get the Gigabyte Black and orange board, I would use the CB, Titanium and White with black shrink to make it POP. That would be my tribute piece to the World Series Champs.







Hmmm might get hold of the Team and see if I could build one for them to auction off for their Junior Giants charity. That would bring the donations I think.









~Ceadder


----------



## fshizl

Lol nah I'm an angels fan.

I thought giants orange was brighter until I saw their website then I was like oh look it is.


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dilyn;11301478*
> Here's how the SATA sleeve works:
> The SATA sleeve is flatter/wider than regular 1/8" sleeving so as to allow you to easily get it over the entire cable. Carefully pull the sleeve over the connector (I would suggest doing it over the flat connector side instead of the 90 degree side, much easier) and work it all the way down the length of the cable.
> Nils sells SATA heatshrink as well. This fits over the connector very easily if you just take a pair of needle nose pliers and pry the sides wider. Then all you have to do is slide it over the connector and SATA sleeve, use your preferred method of heating it, and then it's ready to go.


Is it at all possible over angled connectors?
I might go left angle + right angle on my SATA and it sounds like it's gonna be tricky

edit: scratch that, I'm gonna shorten my sata anyway, so I won't need to go over the connector


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Fshizl vs. Martin for the best pictures....who ever shall win?!?!?!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;13089087*
> Fshizl vs. Martin for the best pictures....who ever shall win?!?!?!


My man Shiz would win. You ever seen his Monitor with the MDPC-x desktop.









Seeeeeeee tol ya Shiz. Giants Orange. I should build a Gigantes themed system and donate it for Junior Giants.







:

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## fshizl

No, martin wins... LOL... I am using his pictures as my desktop background... LOL thanks for the support Ceadder but I am behind martin way before I am behind my pictures... LOL


----------



## PapaSmurf

I know I wouldn't want to be the one to judge that contest. They are too close to call.


----------



## Ceadderman

What can I say I'm loyal to a fault. lol

~Ceadder


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Fshizl, you need one of these and this to go with it.

Your pictures will be 1337.


----------



## Infrabasse

OUCH

This is for 2 PCs, and some spares


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Damn that 19% tax makes my counties 10% tax look silly.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*


Damn that 19% tax makes my counties 10% tax look silly.


10% tax? I thought Cali Tax was high. Last time I paid it they were almost 9%.









This is what happens when you let Democrats run the country.







lol

You watch if Obama gets reelected they'll install a Fed Sales tax to "fix the deficit".









I hate that guy. Anyone that runs on "Change" should be hung with a rope of MDPC...

Like how I tied this into the discussion.









~Ceadder


----------



## PapaSmurf

I think this would be one of the situations where ParaCord would do a better job. Less stretch and capable of handling a heavier load. Plus it's cheaper. Who wants to go into further debt for such a crummy job anyway.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13090675*
> I think this would be one of the situations where ParaCord would do a better job. Less stretch and capable of handling a heavier load. Plus it's cheaper. Who wants to go into further debt for such a crummy job anyway.


lol But it would look nice when the job is finished.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## AusPC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


lol But it would look nice when the job is finished.









~Ceadder










 Nice, I see what you did there


----------



## fshizl

Lol secret I get that and ill need another city to take pictures from.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Tax is 15% here







Just gone up from 12.5%


----------



## AusPC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Tax is 15% here








Just gone up from 12.5%


 Eek. We hardly have any export or consumption taxes in Australia thankfully







, Only annoying one is GST though.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Yeah I was referring to GST







I found it so confusing when I was in America trying to buy stuff. You look at the price tag and because you're used to seeing the price inclusive of tax, you forget that you've gotta fork out a bit extra at the counter







Not knowing what the tax rates were in the 2 different States I visited made it tricky to work out how much money to give the person (not that I knew/know what coins were which amount anyways!)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Yeah I was referring to GST







I found it so confusing when I was in America trying to buy stuff. You look at the price tag and because you're used to seeing the price inclusive of tax, you forget that you've gotta fork out a bit extra at the counter







Not knowing what the tax rates were in the 2 different States I visited made it tricky to work out how much money to give the person (not that I knew/know what coins were which amount anyways!)


Don't feel bad, we're in the same boat when we go abroad as well. Though I do like that the tax is pre-applied that does make things a bit easier. Except with online of course like MDPC-x. I'm always having to add shipping only to find out later that it went up.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## SKl

VAT/tax is 20% here








bought a welder yesterday the vat was insane.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;13092734*
> Lol secret I get that and ill need another city to take pictures from.


----------



## Da1Nonly

Hello,

Im gonna be doing my first sleeving job this week and I have just a few questions for you guys,

1. How much sleeving and heat wrap (in feet) would I need for 24 pin connector, 8 pin, two 6 pin connectors, and a few 120mm fans?

2. When taking the wires out of the connectors, do you have to put the wires back in the same holes you pulled them out off? Or does it not matter?

If this sounds noobish, dont laugh! Ive never done something like this, but I think your not really pc-hollic unless youve done the following.. Full custom water cooling, cable sleeving, sli-crossfire. So Ive got the water cooling done, next up is the sleeving.


----------



## Da1Nonly

Anybody?


----------



## Kortwa

Measure one wire from each connector and multiply to find the amount of sleeving you will need for each cable. Then multiply the total by 20% so you have extra for mistakes. As for shrink you would want about 5.5ft of it.(This was my math for 15mm of sleeving per side of cable with 3 fans extra to sleeve with some extra incase of mistakes)

As for actually wiring it back up, the easiest way is to take one wire out and sleeve it then put it back in. That way you dont mess the wiring up.


----------



## Da1Nonly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kortwa*


Measure one wire from each connector and multiply to find the amount of sleeving you will need for each cable. Then multiply the total by 20% so you have extra for mistakes. As for shrink you would want about 5.5ft of it.(This was my math for 15mm of sleeving per side of cable with 3 fans extra to sleeve with some extra incase of mistakes)

As for actually wiring it back up, the easiest way is to take one wire out and sleeve it then put it back in. That way you dont mess the wiring up.


thanks for your reply, well I got about 20feet of sleeve and 7 feet of wrap. Do you think that will be enough?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Da1Nonly*


Hello,

Im gonna be doing my first sleeving job this week and I have just a few questions for you guys,

1. How much sleeving and heat wrap (in feet) would I need for 24 pin connector, 8 pin, two 6 pin connectors, and a few 120mm fans?

2. When taking the wires out of the connectors, do you have to put the wires back in the same holes you pulled them out off? Or does it not matter?

If this sounds noobish, dont laugh! Ive never done something like this, but I think your not really pc-hollic unless youve done the following.. Full custom water cooling, cable sleeving, sli-crossfire. So Ive got the water cooling done, next up is the sleeving.


Kortwa has it right for determining how much you need. Not all PSU's have the same length cables which is why it's difficult for us to provide an actual number.

And YES. You do need to put the wires back in the location they came out of. You have a little lattitude in that you can switch around the same color wire in the same connector, but not different colored wires. By that I mean all of the black wires in a given connector can be switched around, but you can't put a yellow wire were a black one was or vice versa. Each color of wire is a different voltage or purpose, but all of a specific color are the same. This page shows all of the various connectors on a power supply and how the wires are supposed to be arranged in them.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Kortwa has it right for determining how much you need. Not all PSU's have the same length cables which is why it's difficult for us to provide an actual number.

And YES. You do need to put the wires back in the location they came out of. You have a little lattitude in that you can switch around the same color wire in the same connector, but not different colored wires. By that I mean all of the black wires in a given connector can be switched around, but you can't put a yellow wire were a black one was or vice versa. Each color of wire is a different voltage or purpose, but all of a specific color are the same. This page shows all of the various connectors on a power supply and how the wires are supposed to be arranged in them.


If you buy AWG cables it doesn't matter on the ordering I've heard.

If you start on a ground at the female side you should end up on a ground at the male side. Correct me if I'm wrong because that's what I've come up with when asking people


----------



## PapaSmurf

AWG cables doesn't make a bit of difference. You still need to have them in the correct position. If you are making your own Modular Cables then you have more latitude in that as long as you do each end exactly the same you would be okay, but that is NOT what we are talking about here. Heck, if you make your own cables you can make them all the same color if you want. But if you are talking about the factory cables then you need to put them back where they came from originally, especially on NON modular cables.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


AWG cables doesn't make a bit of difference. You still need to have them in the correct position. If you are making your own Modular Cables then you have more latitude in that as long as you do each end exactly the same you would be okay, but that is NOT what we are talking about here. Heck, if you make your own cables you can make them all the same color if you want. But if you are talking about the factory cables then you need to put them back where they came from originally, especially on NON modular cables.


Okay sorry


----------



## Da1Nonly

thanks for your replies, Im gonna take it one cable at a time to make sure I dont screw up too much.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Good idea, especially on a CoolerMaster PSU. Most of them aren't that good to begin with except for the Silent Pro series and the GX450 (the rest of the GX series ranges from poor to absolute junk).


----------



## Da1Nonly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Good idea, especially on a CoolerMaster PSU. Most of them aren't that good to begin with except for the Silent Pro series and the GX450 (the rest of the GX series ranges from poor to absolute junk).


I dont know when I bought mine I was on overclock.net for quite some time before I made the decision. Everyone recomended it, its been really good so far.


----------



## SKl

Slipped with the sleeving tool went up in the air then into my thumb-








lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Don't lie. You were battling nostalgia and nostalgia won causing you to finger paint your mother a Valentine.









~Ceadder


----------



## Philistine

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKl*


Slipped with the sleeving tool went up in the air then into my thumb-


Ouch! I sliced my finger pretty good cutting off some heat shrink while sleeving. Who knew case modding was so dangerous?


----------



## Copenhagen69

In my build thread, someone mentioned that this MDPC sleeving does not look like the picture in person and looks bad. Does anyone know about this? Crysisgamer?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*











In my build thread, someone mentioned that this MDPC sleeving does not look like the picture in person and looks bad. Does anyone know about this? Crysisgamer?


Ask fshizl. He's got some of that color.









~Ceadder


----------



## fshizl

its that green... however under other light it looks exactly as he sells it..


----------



## Forsaken_id

My power and reset buttons:


----------



## PapaSmurf

Looks nice.







:


----------



## Martin S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69;13113036*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my build thread, someone mentioned that this MDPC sleeving does not look like the picture in person and looks bad. Does anyone know about this? Crysisgamer?


I disagree wholeheartedly. The product images provided by Nils represent the color accurately, under the neutral lighting conditions described. You should have no reason to question them.


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;13115457*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its that green... however under other light it looks exactly as he sells it..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martin S;13117365*
> I disagree wholeheartedly. The product images provided by Nils represent the color accurately, under the neutral lighting conditions described. You should have no reason to question them.


Wow, your photos look a lot different from each others. Maybe the dark background?


----------



## Shane1244

Not everyone sets the proper white balance.


----------



## Ceadderman

That and the distance to the product has something to do with the color difference.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shane1244;13118636*
> Not everyone sets the proper white balance.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13119049*
> That and the distance to the product has something to do with the color difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


OK, so with that said ... I would be getting the color in Martin's pic and MDPC pic?


----------



## Shane1244

What's your lighting setup? what did you balance off of?

If you're talking for future knowledge, than yes. For product photography you'll need a grey card to get the proper colors.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Sleeved a few 40mm CM fans for giggles. I may put them in my M8 on the back plate, also for giggles.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


What's your lighting setup? what did you balance off of?

If you're talking for future knowledge, than yes. For product photography you'll need a grey card to get the proper colors.


Or a very good colour-matching eye if you post-process it.


----------



## SKl

Sleeving takes ages lol.........


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SKl*


Sleeving takes ages lol.........


But, its well worth it.


----------



## SKl

True dat







.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Or a very good colour-matching eye if you post-process it.


Nope, because I guarantee you're monitor isn't calibrated, nor is is even able to properly reproduce colours.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


Nope, because I guarantee you're monitor isn't calibrated, nor is is even able to properly reproduce colours.


Not yet (lack of time), but I have access to a monitor calibration tool. I don't use an LCD for my photo & design work either. I am using an SGI Trinitron so I am sure it is a heck of a lot better at reproducing colours than a lot of screens. Besides, these days there is almost no point for a non-commercial photographer to even have a correctly calibrated screen if their photos are only being viewed online. Only a handful of people would ever be able to see the colours the way they were intended to be viewed.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


Nope, because I guarantee you're monitor isn't calibrated, nor is is even able to properly reproduce colours.


how can you guarantee that?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;13121594*
> But, its well worth it.


I like it. I don't like black though. I'm more of a UV guy


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;13126052*
> how can you guarantee that?


He appears to have lack of photo knowledge, and outside of photography there isn't much of a point of having a calibrated monitor. My assumptions were correct.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;13126052*
> how can you guarantee that?


Agreed... Sure the majority don't, but there are definitely people around that do due to the type of work they are in. This being a computer forum, I would assume there are probably quite a few graphic designers or photographers around that have got a calibrated monitor. Give me a month or so and mine will be too.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shane1244;13126296*
> He appears to have lack of photo knowledge, and outside of photography there isn't much of a point of having a calibrated monitor. My assumptions were correct.


Was this directed at me? I am not a he. And I would not recommend anyone colour match by eye without a calibrated monitor








Defeats the purpose really.


----------



## Copenhagen69

I am so confused on who shane is talking about ...


----------



## Ceadderman

Careful now Spidermonkeys have been known to bite.







lulz

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Shane1244

It will remain a mystery. It's a hard one to crack, I was quoting one person.


----------



## fshizl

He's talking about me cause hes got a flicker account. I don't take pictures of sleeving for color. As long as the picture on the screen matches what I have in my hand it's correct.

My lighting is different. I use 6500k light bulbs. White balance is hard to get right. If I set it to sunlight it goes too yellow. If I set it to cloudy it goes too blue. If I set it to florescent it goes too blue.

I don't care if you can take a better picture than me. Apart from Martin and lutro I'm the only one posting pictures on this thread.

So please if you have any comments, tell them directly. Don't try to make it sound like your some good photographer with your hidden talents in Canada.

As far as my pictures go some have good color others don't my money doesn't get spent on camera equipment. So I do with what I got.


----------



## Shane1244

Haha, No. I quite like your pictures tbh. If they are colour accurate or not, they are very nice.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I'm confused myself. Could be that you were meaning me but didn't know I was a girl or something. Regardless, I'm not too bothered







I don't claim to know everything about photography. I do it because I enjoy it and I learned all I know through experimentation and practice. As soon as I've finished my degree in graphic design I'm heading straight for the photography course to expand my knowledge further


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;13130236*
> I'm confused myself. Could be that you were meaning me but didn't know I was a girl or something. Regardless, I'm not too bothered
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't claim to know everything about photography. I do it because I enjoy it and I learned all I know through experimentation and practice. As soon as I've finished my degree in graphic design I'm heading straight for the photography course to expand my knowledge further


Good on you







, I like everyones pics


----------



## superhead91

So, I'm wanting to sleeve my PSU with gray, color-x, and black. You guys think that the sleeving kit + 10m color-x + 10m of gray + 2m of black heatshrink will do it?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


So, I'm wanting to sleeve my PSU with gray, color-x, and black. You guys think that the sleeving kit + 10m color-x + 10m of gray + 2m of black heatshrink will do it?


Add up your cables * by Lenth of single cable + 20% = you should be set for the PSU. If you need more for fans and I/O cables order 2 extra lengths(1 each) of the Color X and the Grey. That way you're assured the colors will blend in well with your PSU.









~Ceadder


----------



## Juggalo23451




----------



## Copenhagen69

I got a Cooler Master 1200w PSU on the way I will be sleeving ...

Has anyone dealt with their modular cables yet?

These ones in particular ...


----------



## AusPC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


I got a Cooler Master 1200w PSU on the way I will be sleeving ...

Has anyone dealt with their modular cables yet?

These ones in particular ...











 Those look like ATX Male Connectors at the Parts that go into the power supply, The Connectors that go into the peripherals are standard. So the light browny connectors look like ATX Pins (2 Flaps on the Left and Right of the Pin)

Cheers - Jason.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Juggalo23451*








Not bad man. However not all sleeving is churned out by the same place. I haven't seen anything that comes close to MDPC. I've got some of Furry's stuff here next to MDPC and you can definitely see a difference between the two. MDPC has better stretch to it to get it close to the smallest gauge of cables covered. Furry's doesn't stretch as much. It's still pretty decent if people are looking for something cheaper than MDPC. But if you want the best you're gonna pay for it. That's just how the world works.









~Ceadder


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AusPC*


Those look like ATX Male Connectors at the Parts that go into the power supply, The Connectors that go into the peripherals are standard. So the light browny connectors look like ATX Pins (2 Flaps on the Left and Right of the Pin)

Cheers - Jason.


oh ... whoops, that is newegg writing on the picture. I meant the modular connections that look molded together. like corsair does theres.

sorry for the confusion.


----------



## Ceadderman

Here are the pics I promised.

As you can see the Furry stuff while it's triple braided like MDPC retains it's round shape. Which is great if you're making a straight pass directly to your connection. But most of us don't do that. Instead we try to manage our cables and that causes bends and kinks. The MDPC starts out pretty flat and open. But when it's stretched properly and the cables aren't of a color that would stand out(i.e. Black, Red or Yellow in white sleeve etc.) even in Furry's sleeving your sleeve job will be smaller in diameter and look marvelous at all times. Just a little bit of dust brush off and it still looks awesome.









The MDPC is the Blue Sleeving while Furry's is Black, just to put things into their proper perspective btw. All pics taken with my Lifecam Cinema Webby. Not SLR but it'll do in a pinch.









~Ceadder


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I personally love Barry's black sleeve







It's a shame that there is no stretch to it but it is so tightly woven that it doesn't matter anyway. Could do with a slightly smaller diameter so that it hugs the wire better though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


I personally love Barry's black sleeve







It's a shame that there is no stretch to it but it is so tightly woven that it doesn't matter anyway. Could do with a slightly smaller diameter so that it hugs the wire better though.


Yeah don't get me wrong, I like the quality of Furry's sleeving enough that if I didn't want to spend for the MDPC, that would be a very close alternative. Actually I almost bought Furry's stuff. I just got enticed to buy MDPC so that's what I have in my build. I've no problems working with anything else, if that's what a person wants. I'll do everything I can to make it look good as well. In fact the person I'm sleeving for sent me both materials for his Modular kit.









Today was Court so I haven't started it yet. I'll be starting in soon as the "workbench" is cleared off and wiped down and first thing tomorrow. I don't work on messy surfaces. Though I do mess them up when I get at it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


I personally love Barry's black sleeve







It's a shame that *there is no stretch* to it but *it is so tightly woven that it doesn't matter anyway*. Could do with a slightly smaller diameter so that it hugs the wire better though.


So because it's tightly woven, it doesn't matter that it can't stretch?

It's because it's tightly woven that it can't stretch.


----------



## Ceadderman

She did say that a smaller diameter would probably suffice bro. No need to nitpick because it wasn't worded to your high standards.









~Ceadder


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


I got a Cooler Master 1200w PSU on the way I will be sleeving ...

Has anyone dealt with their modular cables yet?

These ones in particular ...










I did not write on the picture that is neweggs writing. I am talking about the ones that are molded together ... Can I just pull them apart and wire them?



Anything on this? Would like to be ready for it once it comes in...


----------



## AusPC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


Anything on this? Would like to be ready for it once it comes in...










 Shouldn't be a problem, Those cables come apart their only held by a weak bond. Corsair cables are molded together like that too.

Cheers - Jason.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


Anything on this? Would like to be ready for it once it comes in...










Those are just regular ATX plugs but only flat. You should be able to shrink the connectors as normal. You MAY have to cut the shrink back with a razor inorder to get them to seat all the way in however. I know some connectors are inherently that way. Clear and UV connectors are like that. I have a UV Red connector that I tried using and you couldn't get the shrinked up connector in deep enough for the barbs to snap into place. Creating a less than optimum contact with the MoBo pins, so I had to order a Black one since the stock 24 pin connecter has a busted pin in it. I need to light that sucker up so I can take pics of it.









Anyway those are not Moles. Those are standard ATX pins in a different style of connector. Even my old a$$ eyes can see that. Of course I still roll 20/20 and 20/15 vision.









~Ceadder


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AusPC*


Shouldn't be a problem, Those cables come apart their only held by a weak bond. Corsair cables are molded together like that too.

Cheers - Jason.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Those are just regular ATX plugs but only flat. You should be able to shrink the connectors as normal. You MAY have to cut the shrink back with a razor inorder to get them to seat all the way in however. I know some connectors are inherently that way. Clear and UV connectors are like that. I have a UV Red connector that I tried using and you couldn't get the shrinked up connector in deep enough for the barbs to snap into place. Creating a less than optimum contact with the MoBo pins, so I had to order a Black one since the stock 24 pin connecter has a busted pin in it. I need to light that sucker up so I can take pics of it.









Anyway those are not Moles. Those are standard ATX pins in a different style of connector. Even my old a$$ eyes can see that. Of course I still roll 20/20 and 20/15 vision.









~Ceadder











Ok thanks guys! Glad to hear they are nothing special


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


Ok thanks guys! Glad to hear they are nothing special










Please compensate accordingly. That will be $100US to my PayPal account.









~Ceadder


----------



## Copenhagen69

LOL! ok fine







sent


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


LOL! ok fine







sent










No no, I want the cash. C'mon you, fork it over.









...j/k, you do know I was playin with the compensation. But I'll take what I got. Thanks.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


No no, I want the cash. C'mon you, fork it over.









...j/k, you do know I was playin with the compensation. But I'll take what I got. Thanks.







lol

~Ceadder










yes I know ... I just had not got to yours yet .. I give credit where credit is due


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


She did say that a smaller diameter would probably suffice bro. No need to nitpick because it wasn't worded to your high standards.









~Ceadder










Agreed...


----------



## mastical

If i wanted to sleeve a 24pin with one piece of sleeve, like one big hunk...what size sleeve would I use?

Like factory sleeve.


----------



## PapaSmurf

1/2" might do it unless they use a lot of double wires or heavier gauge wires. Just measure the diameter of the cable bundle. That is where the Kobra Sleeve comes in handy. They have it in larger diameters up to 1/2 inch, it's a nice dense weave, and you can order a small amount.


----------



## mastical

Cool, thanks a lot.


----------



## Born4TheSky

Just placed an order for some mdpc sleeving... Here comes color-x


----------



## oc_geek

That is very nice one (all MDPC are great btw).
I used it and i really like the dragon blood !

In my build i combined gray and color-x: http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/993253-little-devil-pc-v8-build-log.html

Sample (sorry for the light but it was night...) hereafter










Enjoy ur sleeving


----------



## Kick

woops, it's evga exclusive./


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kick;13236162*
> Well not sure if martin would want me to do this, if not, feel free to pm me martin. just promoting your services.
> 
> *snip*


Not sure if you can advertise here. I mentioned something about Sleeving a PSU I was selling and nearly got my butt chewed for it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

I would PM Martin and ask him if you can advertise like that before actually doing it; it might be against his policy, which then would make it against ours.


----------



## Ceadderman

Here is a preview of Mastical's color scheme.

I'm using Blue MDPC, Black Clean Cut and Black MDPC shrink.

It's coming along nicely, but I want him to be able to show off my work when he shows y'all his new sleeving. This is just a taste from the converted 6pin PCI-e cable.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Copenhagen69

did I miss it ... or is there not any blue in the pictures?


----------



## mastical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69;13259768*
> did I miss it ... or is there not any blue in the pictures?


Look close at the first pic, its a darker blue in low light.

Looks Awesome Ceadder!


----------



## cyclometric

I spent about an hour today sleeving my Sata data cables. Bought 5 new Sata cables on ebay, one flat end, one right angle. For most of my sleeving, I'm using FurryLetters' black cleancut, and a bit of neon green paracord as an accent, so without any MDPC Sata sleeve on hand, I wasn't sure what I would use. I ended up finding lots of 1/4" black (probably basic techflex). After wrapping the cables in black electrical tape, the sleeving fit over and looked fine. Good enough for me, anyway. After I bought some 3/8" 2:1 heatshrink, I finished the cables.

The 3/8" was a tight fit, but I used the trick I read about in the very helpful sleeving guide @ xtremesystems. He says to slice off a small amount from the corner of the connector. Whether the author meant on all 4 corners, on both sides of the connector, I'm not sure, but that's what I did, and the HS slid down fairly easily and still tightened up very well on the sleeving. The first cable I sleeved (far right) ended up with HS a bit shorter than the others, might redo but these are going to be so out of view, might be an easy one to overlook.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastical;13259797*
> Look close at the first pic, its a darker blue in low light.
> 
> Looks Awesome Ceadder!


Thanks. I'm dancin with your dual leads. They're a bit more than I thought they would be but I think I've got it figured out. Those won't be uniform(shrinkwise) at the PSU but they're close enough for government work or from Bayshore as my Grampa used ta say.









I'm shooting to have it all done and ready to ship on Tuesday. It obviously depends on how well the dual leads cooperate, but I'm gettin there.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## AusPC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Here is a preview of Mastical's color scheme.

I'm using Blue MDPC, Black Clean Cut and Black MDPC shrink.

It's coming along nicely, but I want him to be able to show off my work when he shows y'all his new sleeving. This is just a taste from the converted 6pin PCI-e cable.









~Ceadder










 Great Job


----------



## sprower

My first time sleeving. I don't know why I started with the 24pin.... It's pretty lumpy and a few of them slide out so I'm going to redo the heat shrink on that guy.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sprower*


My first time sleeving. I don't know why I started with the 24pin.... It's pretty lumpy and a few of them slide out so I'm going to redo the heat shrink on that guy.


Thats an awesome first time job man! Keep it up!


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sprower*












I don't know if I should feel dumb for asking, but what is that metal thing?


----------



## sprower

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Thats an awesome first time job man! Keep it up!










Thanks!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


I don't know if I should feel dumb for asking, but what is that metal thing?


It's a push button switch I used to replace the stock switch for a cathode light.


----------



## Ceadderman

Very nice. In the future you mite cut your shrink at or around 15mm. Otherwise that's a heck of a job for 1st sleeve job.









~Ceadder:drink


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sprower*


It's a push button switch I used to replace the stock switch for a cathode light.










Ahh.. Gotcha. Looks awesome for your first sleeve job!


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sprower*


My first time sleeving. I don't know why I started with the 24pin.... It's pretty lumpy and a few of them slide out so I'm going to redo the heat shrink on that guy.


It's a pretty damn good first try! But if you're gonna redo it, I'd probably go for shorter heatshrink.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sprower*












Did you follow a specific tutorial for this one?

Incidently if anyone has tips for sleeving cables with these passthrough connectors, I'll gladly take them.
I need to sleeve a 12 connector cable with thicker gauge so it'll probably be a little different but I'll take any advice I can take.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;13274459*
> It's a pretty damn good first try! But if you're gonna redo it, I'd probably go for shorter heatshrink.
> 
> Did you follow a specific tutorial for this one?
> 
> Incidently if anyone has tips for sleeving cables with these passthrough connectors, I'll gladly take them.
> I need to sleeve a 12 connector cable with thicker gauge so it'll probably be a little different but I'll take any advice I can take.


You can sleeve them yourself or go to psychosleeve where Martin can do them for you. It's a bit pricey though...anyways, he only uses MDCP-X (they also just use some things from Molex like pins, heads, and pin removers).


----------



## Infrabasse

Thanks but I'll do it myself, I already have mdpc-x sleeve and shrink. I got the passthrough connectors somewhere else but anyway, neither of these need to use crimped pins, they are of the insulator displacement type.


----------



## sprower

Thanks for the kind words everyone!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;13274459*
> Did you follow a specific tutorial for this one?


Nope. It was one of the last pieces I did so it turned out really good compared. I just used one long piece of shrink in between the lengths of sleeve before connecting the passthroughs. It made it a little harder to get the wire in but it keeps the shrink in place.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower;13277971*
> Thanks for the kind words everyone!


No problem, anyone who takes the time to do a decent job the first time deserves a atta boy! =)


----------



## FEAR.

First time sleeving.


----------



## AusPC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FEAR.*


First time sleeving.











 Nice , Great job for a first time sleeving









+Rep


----------



## sprower

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FEAR.*


First time sleeving.


Looks great!


----------



## FEAR.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AusPC*


Nice , Great job for a first time sleeving









+Rep



Quote:



Originally Posted by *sprower*


Looks great!










Thank you


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AusPC;13285178*
> Nice , Great job for a first time sleeving
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +Rep


I second that, great first time bud!

-gets up on soapbox-

*That is what this thread is all about. To share your sleeving fun and to be educated and to share techniques as well as be encouraged that everyone can (with patience) do a decent job at sleeving. Kudos to those that decide to take the plunge and try something new!

Man I love this thread <3*

-steps down-


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;13286325*
> I second that, great first time bud!
> 
> -gets up on soapbox-
> 
> *That is what this SITE is all about. To share your computer fun and to be educated and to share techniques as well as be encouraged that everyone can (with patience) do a decent job at whoo hoo-ing. Kudos to those that decide to take the plunge and try something new!
> 
> Man I love this thread <3*
> 
> -steps down-


Fixed.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Okay guys, I'm running into a problem. I picked up a couple of these PWM Fan Y Splitters and can't get the wires out of the fan connectors to be able to sleeve them. I've tried poking a needle and a safety pin along the pins from either side of the connector and I can't seem to find the locking tab to release them. Anyone have any hints on which way to come in from and what side the locking clips are on as I'm stumped? There has to be some trick that I am missing as I have spent over two hours so far and haven't been able to budge one. I searched the thread and found it mentioned a while back in this post and it is not working. That was on a 3 pin y splitter not a 4 pim PWM splitter so it might not have the same ends.

This is the exact splitter I am using from SVC.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13289265*
> Okay guys, I'm running into a problem. I picked up a couple of these PWM Fan Y Splitters and can't get the wires out of the fan connectors to be able to sleeve them. I've tried poking a needle and a safety pin along the pins from either side of the connector and I can't seem to find the locking tab to release them. Anyone have any hints on which way to come in from and what side the locking clips are on as I'm stumped? There has to be some trick that I am missing as I have spent over two hours so far and haven't been able to budge one. I searched the thread and found it mentioned a while back in this post and it is not working. That was on a 3 pin y splitter not a 4 pim PWM splitter so it might not have the same ends.
> 
> This is the exact splitter I am using from SVC.


Take a pin or a small paper clip insert the end into the hole that is just over the top of the pin which is on the slotted side of the shroud. Push it in as far as it can reasonably go and then slide out the pin. Viola you've now exposed the pin and are ready to sleeve it.









The other side the Female fitting, also has slits that you push down and in with an ATX tool to release the pins. If you don't have an ATX tool then use a slotted micro driver. Insert it and push away from the male connection side.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13289336*
> Take a pin or a small paper clip insert the end into the hole that is just over the top of the pin which is on the slotted side of the shroud. Push it in as far as it can reasonably go and then slide out the pin. Viola you've now exposed the pin and are ready to sleeve it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


As I stated, I tried that. Didn't work. Any other suggestions?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13289351*
> As I stated, I tried that. Didn't work. Any other suggestions?


I promise, it will work as I laid it out. It just takes some getting used to. I posted pics but unfortunately pics only give us so much information. Apologies Mate wish there was a way I could show you that was better than what I have on hand.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Forsaken_id

The way Ceadderman laid out is the only way to get them out without breaking them. I took a picture of the pin, hopefully you can see the tab 1.5mm back from where it starts to widen out.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id;13288958*
> Fixed.


Fixed indeed.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id*


The way Ceadderman laid out is the only way to get them out without breaking them. I took a picture of the pin, hopefully you can see the tab 1.5mm back from where it starts to widen out.


I give up. Almost fours hours of playing with this and so far all I have been able to accomplish is ripping one of the wires out of the pin. Luckily it's one of the yellow sensor wires and I was going to cut one of them anyway. It just isn't going to be worth the hassle.


----------



## mastical

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


I give up. Almost fours hours of playing with this and so far all I have been able to accomplish is ripping one of the wires out of the pin. Luckily it's one of the yellow sensor wires and I was going to cut one of them anyway. It just isn't going to be worth the hassle.


Dont you wish you could swear on thsi board? jk


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastical*


Dont you wish you could swear on thsi board? jk


Not at all. That accomplishes absolutely nothing positive. There's already way too much of it here on OCN to begin with.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Not at all. That accomplishes absolutely nothing positive. There's already way too much of it here on OCN to begin with.


I pm'ed you on the sleeving matter PS. Don't know if you've had time to peruse your inbox, but I'm here if you want.









~Ceadder


----------



## Thogar

I just got my PSU for my new build today (still don't have all the parts),
and i would like to sleeve it before i build it all but it doesn't seem like a smart idea.
Should i wait till i build it all so i can test the PSU for a couple days or weeks?
Or could i just jump start the PSU to make sure it even works in the first place?
I just don't want to sleeve it and then the PSU either doesn't work or dies in a couple days xD
It's a Corsair HX850, I'm doubting that anything bad will happen, but i guess you never know


----------



## sprower

It's hard to not just jump right in I know. Better safe than sorry though. If your going to void the warranty I'd at least wait to make sure it works.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thogar;13296907*
> I just got my PSU for my new build today (still don't have all the parts),
> and i would like to sleeve it before i build it all but it doesn't seem like a smart idea.
> Should i wait till i build it all so i can test the PSU for a couple days or weeks?
> Or could i just jump start the PSU to make sure it even works in the first place?
> I just don't want to sleeve it and then the PSU either doesn't work or dies in a couple days xD
> It's a Corsair HX850, I'm doubting that anything bad will happen, but i guess you never know


I would run it for at least 30 to 45 days. Most of the factory defects will have shown up by then. And I mean running it the equivalent of 24/7 for that amount of time and try to stress it as much as possible during that time. Running at idle doing some word processing, e-mailing, facebook, web surfing isn't going to do much to test it. Crank up some benchmarks and/or run the [email protected] SMP Client on the cpu and the GPU clients on your vid cards if they support it. If it survives a month or two of that it will probably hold up.

Or you can get some extensions and sleeve those. That way you wouldn't void anything.

A third option would be to exchange that PSU for a Modular one. You can sleeve the modular cables and not void your warranty as you don't need to send them back in an RMA. If might be worth the extra bucks to be able to sleeve it and still keep your warranty.


----------



## Thogar

Woah, the extension idea is perfect!
It's practically future proof if you do that, then if you upgrade your PSU you can just use the sleeved extensions,
but of course the cable management would be more of a hassle but that's fine with me!
I'm probably going to make a PSU cover anyways, so that would work








Thanks guys.


----------



## MijnWraak

Check out that sexy banner in the OP


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MijnWraak;13310754*
> Check out that sexy banner in the OP


Very Nice but it should be Red and Black.









Speaking of Black, does anyone have a spare Meter of MDPC Shrink they could send my way? It would be much appreciated. It's to complete Mastical's sleeving. Found myself coming up short. If you do please PM me and we'll sort out the details.

Thanks.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Very Nice but it should be Red and Black.









Speaking of Black, does anyone have a spare Meter of MDPC Shrink they could send my way? It would be much appreciated. It's to complete Mastical's sleeving. Found myself coming up short. If you do please PM me and we'll sort out the details.

Thanks.









~Ceadder










Absolutely. PM incoming. (only if you promise pictures!







)


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


Check out that sexy banner in the OP










That is a nice banner LOL







Moreso, it was a great photo to work with.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


Check out that sexy banner in the OP










Sweet.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Very Nice but it should be Red and Black.










I like the green and black better personally.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


That is a nice banner LOL










Agreed.

While we are at it, does anyone have a few feet of the MDPC-X sleeve in the Neon Yellow? Either the standard single wire of the sata sleeve. I'm only going to be sleeving a few fan leads and some front case wires so I don't need much. I know it's a long shot as the Neon Yellow just doesn't seem to be that popular. I'm just trying to find something that contrasts with all of the UV Blue fans I have in the case already. Neon Green isn't too bad, but the Neon Orange clashes a bit too much. It just needs a bit of contrasting color to break up the monotony of the blue.


----------



## MijnWraak

I've got some yellow sata sleeve. PM me.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Thanks you sir. Incoming...


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Hi there, might I perhaps join?


----------



## Hysteria~

Got some Black and White paracord coming tomorrow, so be expecting so pics, guys!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth*


Hi there, might I perhaps join?











Sure. Send me your cabinet an I'll hook you up with some really nice cable managing.









I don't think this is a joinable club by the way. Only exclusivity here is that you enjoy detail oriented modding.









Welcome.









~Ceadder


----------



## Xien16




----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xien16;13316038*
> -img snip-


That, Xien... Is a beautifull thing...







Wonderfull photo!


----------



## Ceadderman

I think I messed myself.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13317318*
> I think I messed myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Ew... -hands roll of paper towels-


----------



## Xien16

Ehmmmm ... OK









I will just go on where I stopped three month ago













































Marten didn't like it...


----------



## CrimsonMango

this is for you Papa Smurf:

spent the last couple hours taking macro shots and writing that tutorial for you

now I definitely see why you're about to give up on it - it is a royal pain in the butt to remove the pins from those types of 3/4 pin fan molex connectors

hope that helps!

http://www.overclock.net/other-hardware-mods/1003086-papa-smurf-weird-3-pin-connector.html#post13318561


----------



## Xien16

Weird???

Those are easyter to remove than the female ones








But what you sould get is a thinner wire out of spring steel








I never had any problem with those (and I used them only one time three years ago because extensions are a no-go for me ^^)


----------



## Lutro0

Awesome photos yet again!


----------



## Triangle

What should I do about this?


How should I sleeve this since that is there?


----------



## Xien16

CUT IT OFF!!!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CrimsonMango*


this is for you Papa Smurf:

spent the last couple hours taking macro shots and writing that tutorial for you

now I definitely see why you're about to give up on it - it is a royal pain in the butt to remove the pins from those types of 3/4 pin fan molex connectors

hope that helps!

http://www.overclock.net/other-hardw...l#post13318561


You better believe it helped. That works like a charm. Took all of 5 minutes to get both 4pin ends off of a PWM Splitter using that technique. There isn't enough rep to cover the debt I owe you on that.










Quote:



Originally Posted by *triangle*


What should I do about this?


How should I sleeve this since that is there?


Not a lot you can do that won't compromise the integrity of the filter capacitor except use a larger than normal sleeve and sleeve over everything.


----------



## cyclometric

sleeving a corsair modular PCIE cable, the one with two 6+2 pin connectors, for an HX650. I read somewhere it was OK to cut off +2 pin connectors if not needed, and I assume, the ends should be properly covered with something to prevent a short. Can anyone confirm? Couldn't find info on the Corsair forums.

Also, without buying a crimper and cutting off the pins, is there any good way to shorten these cables? I already tried, but by cutting in the middle and soldering the joints together... wires aren't even now, so I'll have to take the pins out of the connector, and remeasure.


----------



## Triangle

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Not a lot you can do that won't compromise the integrity of the filter capacitor except use a larger than normal sleeve and sleeve over everything.


Does it have to be on that end? Could I move it?


----------



## Mr.FraG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cyclometric*


sleeving a corsair modular PCIE cable, the one with two 6+2 pin connectors, for an HX650. I read somewhere it was OK to cut off +2 pin connectors if not needed, and I assume, the ends should be properly covered with something to prevent a short. Can anyone confirm? Couldn't find info on the Corsair forums.

Also, without buying a crimper and cutting off the pins, is there any good way to shorten these cables? I already tried, but by cutting in the middle and soldering the joints together... wires aren't even now, so I'll have to take the pins out of the connector, and remeasure.











Cut it off, there is no problem


----------



## Xien16

I sait it before but I think I have to say it again...

CUT IT OFF!!!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *triangle*


Does it have to be on that end? Could I move it?


If you want it to work the way it is intended to then yes.


----------



## Triangle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13320490*
> If you want it to work the way it is intended to then yes.


Thanks Papa.


----------



## Xien16

Just ignore me


----------



## Ceadderman

I have ta say that is a pretty decent tutorial. But I just tried my ATX pin tool and it works smooth as butta. Doesn't bork the clip on your pin because the opening is tight enough to hold the tool. It doesn't allow any levering to occur at all. So what you get is a pristine pin to insert back into place when you've sleeved it. Even took some shots to show how I did it. A paper clip works too but depending on the size of the PC it can bork the pin.









I just used this tool...









On the +2 question, pull the dual lead pins out of the housing one at a time of course. You should see that the pin is crimped over both leads. Take the lead that is going to be removed(+2 connection) and bend it up and out of the connector but leave the wire connected to the other one so it doesn't open the other part of the pin. This is VERY important. Take a pair of wire nips and cut that lead so that it can be discarded. Then take a pair of crimps(or needle nose) and close the crimp around the lead that is left. This will keep everything together. Make sure to be nice to it the rest of the way through the sleeving process so you won't have to replace the pin later. Do the same thing to the other one and you're good to go. My apologies for the Ninja.









~Ceadder


----------



## UrbanSmooth

I think we need more hi-res shots of coils of sleeving.


----------



## Xien16

Here you go...


----------



## PapaSmurf

Okay guys (and gals). Got the first PWM Splitter sleeved. It didn't take that long now that I know the trick to remove the pins from the connectors (big thanks to CrimsonMango for that). But it's two steps forward and one step back. What I found out is the Kobra sleeve I am trying to use is just a bit too small diameter to to fit well over the 4 wires. It works quite well on single psu wires and the 3 wires of a fan, but 4 is just a bit too much for it and the weave opens up a bit too much to look as good as I would like it to. The MDPC-X single sleeve is just enough bigger diameter to work better for this. My problem is the only MDPC-X sleeve I have is Neon Orange which isn't going to work in the color scheme I'm working on. Does anyone have an extra 5 to 10 feet of MDPC-X Neon Green sleeve and maybe a foot or so of heatshrink to go with it that they would be willing to sell me? If so please PM me with a price shipped to zip code 61109 and I'll send you the money via PayPal (or your method of payment of choice).


----------



## fshizl

Beautiful work xien 16


----------



## Born4TheSky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xien16;13327737*
> Here you go...


What kind of cables is that?


----------



## Xien16

0,75mm² as usual - nothing special


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


On the +2 question, pull the dual lead pins out of the housing one at a time of course. You should see that the pin is crimped over both leads. Take the lead that is going to be removed(+2 connection) and bend it up and out of the connector but leave the wire connected to the other one so it doesn't open the other part of the pin. This is VERY important. Take a pair of wire nips and cut that lead so that it can be discarded. Then take a pair of crimps(or needle nose) and close the crimp around the lead that is left. This will keep everything together. Make sure to be nice to it the rest of the way through the sleeving process so you won't have to replace the pin later. Do the same thing to the other one and you're good to go. My apologies for the Ninja.









~Ceadder










Thanks, cheddar (my mind always sees "cheddar" when I see your name, hope you don't mind ! But I wasn't sure what you meant by "bend it up and out of the connector" -- I didn't even have to remove the 2 short wires from the 2-pin connector, because I just cut them short, as close to the crimp part of the pin that held both wires as I could, and left it at that.

Can hardly believe I finished sleeving this beast of a cable (dual PCIE modular)... and cut about 4" from length... I'm going to test it later on today in my current rig just to make sure it works... hopefully it'll be fine... I made sure to make good healthy solder joints, but man, I need a better iron. I realized last night that the tips I have been using as replacements, from RadShack, have a slightly smaller thread and so don't fit right. So I'm constantly trying to tighten the tip but finally I've realized it's actually an ill-fitting tip, have to get the right one, or ditch this iron. 15 watts is enough for most computer/electronics type soldering, right? (LEDs, wires, etc.)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cyclometric*


Thanks, cheddar (my mind always sees "cheddar" when I see your name, hope you don't mind ! But I wasn't sure what you meant by "bend it up and out of the connector" -- I didn't even have to remove the 2 short wires from the 2-pin connector, because I just cut them short, as close to the crimp part of the pin that held both wires as I could, and left it at that.

Can hardly believe I finished sleeving this beast of a cable (dual PCIE modular)... and cut about 4" from length... I'm going to test it later on today in my current rig just to make sure it works... hopefully it'll be fine... I made sure to make good healthy solder joints, but man, I need a better iron. I realized last night that the tips I have been using as replacements, from RadShack, have a slightly smaller thread and so don't fit right. So I'm constantly trying to tighten the tip but finally I've realized it's actually an ill-fitting tip, have to get the right one, or ditch this iron. 15 watts is enough for most computer/electronics type soldering, right? (LEDs, wires, etc.)

*snip*


15w should be fine. The Weller I use is around that wattage I think.

Oh and it's fine about how you see it. I'd pronounced Shay-der. It's the Gaelic spelling of my name.









~Ceadder


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Guys, I got a fever...

and the only antidote is more hi-res shots of coils of sleeving.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth*


Guys, I got a fever...

and the only antidote is more hi-res shots of coils of sleeving.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13334769*
> Guys, I got a fever...
> 
> and the only antidote is more hi-res shots of coils of sleeving.


Ha! I was thinking that when it was first said.... I ALMOST quoted that exact line.


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13334769*
> Guys, I got a fever...
> 
> and the only antidote is more hi-res shots of coils of sleeving.


Lulz... Please no hi-res shots of Xien16's belly in a tight leopard print shirt.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;13336735*
> Ha! I was thinking that when it was first said.... I ALMOST quoted that exact line.


At least it isn't a fever for some more cowbell.


----------



## Calaros

After seeing all these sexy pictures of sleved cables i decided to jump in head first and just placed an order with MDPC-X for some red and black sleeving to go on my AX850 that should be here midweek.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Calaros;13336966*
> After seeing all these sexy pictures of sleved cables i decided to jump in head first and just placed an order with MDPC-X for some red and black sleeving to go on my AX850 that should be here midweek.


You will not be dissapointed.


----------



## Xien16

When I looked through the "last three months" the only thing I noticed was a lack of hi-quality pictures compared to other forums... (saw some hi-res here but they just were not cropped








)

The other thing was the pics of shoe laces some of you use








Do you really like the surface of those sleeves???

For me there is nothing else that MDPC-X


----------



## cyclometric

I have a couple of cables I'd like to sleeve that have 1 set of wires I plan to single sleeve, that then splits off into two sets of wires, that I also can single sleeve. Seems what I need is a custom made connector made of heatshrink which will join all the ends and all the wires to split off cleanly. Just like this item from McMaster:










except much smaller and much cheaper (these cost > $15 and are way too big anyway). Anyone know where to buy such things? McMaster calls them "Heat Shrink Cable Splitters"

thanks,


----------



## Mugen87

If I am sleeving fan cables that will connect to a fan controller. Can I remove the pin connectors and twist the wires, then run sleeving all the way over? Would this be safe, maybe some electical tape then the sleeving.


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mugen87;13338674*
> If I am sleeving fan cables that will connect to a fan controller. Can I remove the pin connectors and twist the wires, then run sleeving all the way over? Would this be safe, maybe some electical tape then the sleeving.


I'm sure you could, though if you go that route, try soldering instead, it will be much more secure and have less resistance, providing consistent power to your fans.

But wouldn't you rather sleeve the fan cables and the extensions separately so that should you wish to switch one or more fans down the road, it will be a lot easier?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mugen87;13338674*
> If I am sleeving fan cables that will connect to a fan controller. Can I remove the pin connectors and twist the wires, then run sleeving all the way over? Would this be safe, maybe some electical tape then the sleeving.


Twisting the wires no. If you soldered the wires together then put a piece of heatshrink over the solder joint and bare wires and put the sleeve over all of that then yes.


----------



## Mugen87

I will be running alot of fans and going the single cable route will look so much better. So solder, heat shrink, then sleeve. Much thanks


----------



## Xien16




----------



## MijnWraak




----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cyclometric*


I have a couple of cables I'd like to sleeve that have 1 set of wires I plan to single sleeve, that then splits off into two sets of wires, that I also can single sleeve. Seems what I need is a custom made connector made of heatshrink which will join all the ends and all the wires to split off cleanly. Just like this item from McMaster:










except much smaller and much cheaper (these cost > $15 and are way too big anyway). Anyone know where to buy such things? McMaster calls them "Heat Shrink Cable Splitters"

thanks,


Could you heatshrink the two cables at the split, and then put heatshrink on the single wire that overlaps the heatshrink on the two wires? Just a thought.


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


Could you heatshrink the two cables at the split, and then put heatshrink on the single wire that overlaps the heatshrink on the two wires? Just a thought.


Oh, maybe... I was all set to respond and say no, but since I just need to heatshrink over the sleeving I'm going to put on, that might work. I will first sleeve the two sets of wires that split off, and heatshrink down to the "Y", then sleeve the extension piece and maybe if I use a larger piece of HS it'll grab onto the ends of the splits. I'll give it a shot, thanks!


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mugen87*


If I am sleeving fan cables that will connect to a fan controller. Can I remove the pin connectors and twist the wires, then run sleeving all the way over? Would this be safe, maybe some electical tape then the sleeving.


Muegn87,
i found myself in similar situation for my Rad Fans and here is what i did (took it from my build log)
Hope this helpls (sorry if a bit long one..)

Cheers










- - - - - -

Next i wanted to clean the cabling for the bottom compartment where the two 120.3 RADs in XFIRE







will sit

Cutting the fan cable to a resonably short lenght










preparing the FAN pins (3x each FAN) and the FAN headers too (3x each rad indeed)










little pin goes into the crimping tool...










...cable goes in pin, apply forces and here is comes criped to the pin










time to sleeve them...










now sleeve goes over cable, 2x hetshrink goes after (one for each sie of cable, and finally u can connect the header










a little of heat and they are ready to go










let's make some order over there with all those cable we need to fix them with nice NILS curtesy (@MDPC) clips










some bigger clips as we move ahead more cables are grouping up...



























let's see what we got...mmm look like the first three cilinders of the engine are done










see them ?

























now same process on the other side of the "engine" and here it is










isn't it a V6 ?!


----------



## Mugen87

Quote:



Muegn87,
i found myself in similar situation for my Rad Fans and here is what i did (took it from my build log)
Hope this helpls (sorry if a bit long one..)

Cheers


Can you change the large molex connectors to the small 3 pin ones.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Yes.


----------



## Mugen87

nice, and better then soldering.


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


Could you heatshrink the two cables at the split, and then put heatshrink on the single wire that overlaps the heatshrink on the two wires? Just a thought.


Yes, so I went with your idea and had some success:










I just need to pull the pins from the 4 pin molex at the top, sleeve those cables, and done! The only bad part now is that all I have left to sleeve is my PSU 24 pin & 8 pin cables, meaning I have to shut down and shut up and get to work! But when done, I'll be able to move into my new case at last, yippee! Hopefully in time for the Chimp Challenge, too.


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mugen87*


Can you change the large molex connectors to the small 3 pin ones.


If you refer to the big molex from the fan indeed; in that cae the fan wouldn't have an RPM sensing wire (e.g. yellow) but just the power ones (say red and black)

That's a pretty easy operation to do if you have a cripming tool, the small molex and the fan pins at hand

You can than group set of fans together with n:1 fan cables or do one yourself if you fell confident (i did a 3:1 in the example above)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cyclometric*


Yes, so I went with your idea and had some success:










I just need to pull the pins from the 4 pin molex at the top, sleeve those cables, and done! The only bad part now is that all I have left to sleeve is my PSU 24 pin & 8 pin cables, meaning I have to shut down and shut up and get to work! But when done, I'll be able to move into my new case at last, yippee! Hopefully in time for the Chimp Challenge, too.


Hey cyclo you can snip those at the male connector end. Just pop the two pins out and *snip* all done. Of course you'll have to pull the other two pins but it's quite expedient.









I see you said the same thing essentially. Nvm.









~Ceadder


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Paracord.


----------



## Infrabasse

My attempts with passthrough connectors aren't going great:

Wire insulator + sleeve have a hard time fitting and being displaced. I'm not even sure this makes contact at all.


Aligning is quite the challenge, I'm probably not doing it how it should be done.


What worries me the most is I will have to do an 8 connector long of these with even thicker wires. I'll do it having removed a small pieces of insulator on each wire were they slip inside the connector, I hope this'll work better.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infrabasse*


My attempts with passthrough connectors aren't going great:

Wire insulator + sleeve have a hard time fitting and being displaced. I'm not even sure this makes contact at all.

What worries me the most is I will have to do an 8 connector long of these with even thicker wires. I'll do it having removed a small pieces of insulator on each wire were they slip inside the connector, I hope this'll work better.


You need to sleeve up TO the punchdown connector, not thru it. The punchdown connector should only be going thru the actual insulation, not the added heatshrink or sleeve.


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


You need to sleeve up TO the punchdown connector, not thru it. The punchdown connector should only be going thru the actual insulation, not the added heatshrink or sleeve.


Sleeving only up to the connector doesn't give very neat results either as you can sometimes see the end of the heatshrink.
I think with method it's possible to sleeve through. I'm thinking removing the insulator in the correct spots and "replacing" it with heatshrink.

nb: when I say sleeve through, I don't mean actual braiding, but only the heatshrink going through.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Infrabasse, I had a go at that a little while back but without using heatshrink at all. It is tricky but it can be done. What you've done looks good so far


----------



## Ceadderman

The best way is to shrink up to one side of the backing and shrink from the other side of it. Not only does it look cleaner, you don't use so much shrink. The backing is also a great guide to approximate the correct gap. Then you don't have to do as much work to get the right look.









~Ceadder


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13343590*
> Hey cyclo you can snip those at the male connector end. Just pop the two pins out and *snip* all done. Of course you'll have to pull the other two pins but it's quite expedient.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see you said the same thing essentially. Nvm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Wha-h? Snip which cables? I don't want to lose any molex's... one is a female and goes to PSU and I'll use the other to piggyback a second almost identical wire which will power another 2 cathode inverters...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyclometric;13346250*
> Wha-h? Snip which cables? I don't want to lose any molex's... one is a female and goes to PSU and I'll use the other to piggyback a second almost identical wire which will power another 2 cathode inverters...


Aha okay. Nvm then.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyclometric;13346250*
> Wha-h? Snip which cables? I don't want to lose any molex's... one is a female and goes to PSU and I'll use the other to piggyback a second almost identical wire which will power another 2 cathode inverters...


If it was me I would have cut the two 3 pin wire sets from one of them and soldered them onto the other to make a single splitter with four 3 pin connectors.


----------



## Lutro0

I am by no means a pro with the camera so forgive the photo if its not up to standards, but I had to share the pink. =)


----------



## CrimsonMango

ass naked Zippy PSL-6C00V 1200 watt - got rid of the tubing sleeving that I had been using in Project Zyklon B/Threshold


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Good luck with that ^^.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Who's the chick in your avatar Crimson?


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;13348407*
> Who's the chick in your avatar Crimson?


Just some Maxim chic. Not that I've been using Tin Eye or anything...


----------



## CrimsonMango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13348400*
> Good luck with that ^^.


don't even need luck - just a few hours with sleeving, heatshrink tubing, a hot knife, and a heat gun, and it'll be sittin' pretty


----------



## AUS.R34P3R

Here's a quick little glory shot of the sleeved 24-Pin and 2x 6-Pin cables. (Don't have any other good shots I'm afraid.)
Can't see it but the 6 Sata cables under the card are also sleeved, looks really nice.


----------



## Buzzin92

I will soon do some sleeving, i would really like to use MDPC as I've heard it is the best but i think i will go for some black paracord (Cheaper and longer lengths. can get 1000ft for £8.


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13346522*
> If it was me I would have cut the two 3 pin wire sets from one of them and soldered them onto the other to make a single splitter with four 3 pin connectors.


I'm going to have 2 inverters mounted towards the top of the case, and 2 towards the bottom, so that's why I wanted 2 distinct cables, each powering 2 inverters. But since each set of 2 will be side by side, I definitely could/should have left the leads to each connector a lot shorter.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzzin92;13348963*
> I will soon do some sleeving, i would really like to use MDPC as I've heard it is the best but i think i will go for some black paracord (Cheaper and longer lengths. can get 1000ft for £8.


MDPC really isn't that expensive for you Mate. You're in Midlands, whereas many of us are in the States. The conversion rate is about the same between the € and the £ in US currency. About $1.49 to €1 and 1.67 to £1. Actually you'd get MDPC much cheaper than we do. Granted, £8 is pretty cheap, but then look at what you're getting. Outside of Germany shipping rates start at €9.05 which for you isn't that bad considering the €/£ exchange rate. You're saving quite a bit over what we spend for MDPC.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Xien16

Saying a lot of quality just for saving a bit of mones???
I will never understand that...


----------



## Copenhagen69

how does the white, light blue and dark blue look together from Nils? anyone know of a picture with that?


----------



## Xien16

There is aquamarine-blue, b-magic and grand bleu so what do you mean by dark and light?


----------



## superhead91

Does the mdpc red look really red or does it have an orangey tint to it? I'm eventually gonna sleeve my PSU and I can't decide if I wanna use red or color-x.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


Does the mdpc red look really red or does it have an orangey tint to it? I'm eventually gonna sleeve my PSU and I can't decide if I wanna use red or color-x.


Use Color X. Red is more UV color as shown in Xien's pics. It looks good but it is slightly brighter than pictured at MDPC-x. I'm glad I got it but I would probably have liked the Color X better since it would have matched the Red I sprayed my grillwork and thumb latch housings.









~Ceadder


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xien16*


There is aquamarine-blue, b-magic and grand bleu so what do you mean by dark and light?


ooooh forgot there was 3 ...

b magic and grand bleu.

I am going to go white with 2 types of blue and think those would look best together of the 3 blues .... what ya think?


----------



## Xien16

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


Does the mdpc red look really red or does it have an orangey tint to it? I'm eventually gonna sleeve my PSU and I can't decide if I wanna use red or color-x.


It is what I would call "pure red" - so no orange at all.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Use Color X. Red is more UV color as shown in Xien's pics. It looks good but it is slightly brighter than pictured at MDPC-x.


It is not








It just depends on how bright your light source is








For pictures I am using more light than Nils does - in my room (with indirect sunlight only and on a cloudy day) the red is exact the same red you can see on MDPC-X...

And red is ~ 10% UV reactive - so you can see it but only if there is a UV light in a distance of under 2cm to the sleeve.
So you can't really call it UV reactive...


----------



## Ceadderman

What do I know I only have a lot of it in my 932.







lol

I wasn't meaning that it was completely UV, but it is more of a bright red instead of the subdued Red I would have liked it to be when I got it. I still love it, I'm just sayin I think that he'll be happier with color-x.









~Ceadder


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


What do I know I only have a lot of it in my 932.







lol

I wasn't meaning that it was completely UV, but it is more of a bright red instead of the subdued Red I would have liked it to be when I got it. I still love it, I'm just sayin I think that he'll be happier with color-x.









~Ceadder










I think you're right. Not doubting xien at all, but I think color-x is what I'm leaning towards, if I ever get around to buying the stuff... lol


----------



## Born4TheSky

RED - Color X - Titanium Grey - Black



















Not the best picture iPhone 4, but you'll get an idea.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Born4TheSky*


RED - Color X - Titanium Grey - Black

Not the best picture iPhone 4, but you'll get an idea.


Yeah thanks. That helped a lot.


----------



## Xien16

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I wasn't meaning that it was completely UV, but it is more of a bright red instead of the subdued Red I would have liked it to be when I got it.


For me "bright" is not = "UV"








So it was just a misunderstanding








UV means for me it gets extremely bright under blacklight (the dark one)









As you can see here it is really dark compared to orange, yellow, green or even aquamarine:









But under bright light the normal red gets really bright - that might be what you say









I also have painted one of my systems red - and color-x matches better with my paint, too.

@Copenhagen69:
Can you please just hold two of my pics together?


----------



## Born4TheSky

I can take better picture when I will get home tonight. Let me know.


----------



## Xien16

Here you are


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Your pictures are just









I want to go sleeve right this second


----------



## Shane1244

Picture of your lighting setup?


----------



## Copenhagen69

this post helps no one anymore .... move along


----------



## Xien16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;13353327*
> Your pictures are just


Thanks a lot








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shane1244;13353458*
> Picture of your lighting setup?


Just one light-box + white background + camera








http://h-3.abload.de/img/studio29vc5.jpg
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69;13353498*
> trying to hold them together lol...
> 
> is this the aqua?
> http://h-5.abload.de/img/colorss66mdc.jpg
> 
> grand bleu?
> http://h-5.abload.de/img/colorss12bme6.jpg
> 
> I do not see a 3rd blue in there .... did I miss it?


You did







- post #4454 third one








And you guessed the colors right.

(might you please delete the


----------



## Shane1244

Wow.. Works really well!







I wish I had the room to set something up like that.

..You don't use the SX110 for all your pictures do you?


----------



## Copenhagen69

ok found it thanks Xien!

I am comparing them and also found some of Martins pics.

would you say this is relatively close to what they look like?


----------



## Xien16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shane1244;13353581*
> ..You don't use the SX110 for all your pictures do you?


I used it for these









But now I've got a better one...
If you don't want photography to become a fulltime hobby the SX110 might be the best choice


















@Copenhagen69 - again...
Please remove the


----------



## Shane1244

Oh okay, that makes sense. I can agree, it can definitely be used for web-based product photography. I wouldn't want to see the full versions of those though.









What camera do you have now? Your EXIF is empty









,and I know what you mean.. I went from Canon A590IS, to a Nikon D3000 with the stock lens + 35 f/1.8, now I have a Canon 60D with a 50 f/1.4 and a Samyang 14mm f/2.8


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xien16;13353728*
> @Copenhagen69 - again...
> Please remove the


oh didnt know you wanted me to remove your pics ...









no, why would I need permission to post a picture of his?


----------



## Xien16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69;13353894*
> no, why would I need permission to post a picture of his?


Because it is his picture and only the one who takes a picture also has the right to show it









@ Shane1244: It is a 500D since february 2010








And I did most pics with the 60mm macro (best lens ever







)


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xien16;13353985*
> Because it is his picture and only the one who takes a picture also has the right to show it


eh, not really. He posted it on the internet, making it fair game for everyone. Thats why they have watermarks for this specific reason


----------



## Ceadderman

Well there is no rule against such things of course but it is common courtesy to ask. I think that's what Xien is getting at. Though I'm pretty sure if you sought permission that he would tell you yes it would be okay to do so.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xien16;13353985*
> Because it is his picture and only the one who takes a picture also has the right to show it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ Shane1244: It is a 500D since february 2010
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I did most pics with the 60mm macro (best lens ever
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Yeah, It's a really nice lens for the price. Especially since you can get 1:1.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13354200*
> Well there is no rule against such things of course but it is common courtesy to ask. I think that's what Xien is getting at. Though I'm pretty sure if you sought permission that he would tell you yes it would be okay to do so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


This, or quote it. It doesn't look like you're quoting the pics therefore you're not giving the original poster credit for the pic. I wouldn't make a big deal about it but like ceadder said, it's just polite.


----------



## Copenhagen69

well I said here is a picture from Martin ... how much more credit does he need? Xien has a watermark in the ones I posted ... again how much more credit does he need?

sorry if I didnt quote the pics, but people need to chill. if you don't want this to happen then unplug your RJ45 cable and be done with it









... just saying

Now lets get back to amazing pictures


----------



## Xien16

In Germany there is a law called "copyright" and the normal penalty for ONE picture taken without any permission is ~300€
It is the same right that forbids you to copy music








But whether there is this law in your country or not it is polite to quote it like said before.

I also don't forbid others to take my pics in forums - the only thing I demand is to post them as a link (no


----------



## Shane1244

You're fine. You're not aloud to COPY the picture. You deeplinked it from his site, completely fine.


----------



## fshizl

its also as easy as him changing the picture on his site... just do what the man asks, its such a simple task...


----------



## Somenamehere

Can anyone link me to some high quality heatshrink that will fit into the cable connector? I would prefer it coming from ebay (furryletters) since I am going to buy some sleeving later today.


----------



## Xien16

There is no better one


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xien16*


There is no better one


what do people do who buy sleeving that does not have the matching heatshrink?

IE: grand bleu?


----------



## Xien16

They take black








Or like I did - black for black connector and white for white connector:










The connectors normally are black so black shrink is the best solution.
It is not possible to produce shrinks in every color so Nils just didn't want to do what the big shops do:
Selling something that is not perfect


----------



## Shane1244

Coloured heat shrink looks ugly.


----------



## sprower

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


Coloured heat shrink looks ugly.


I have to agree with you there. The few times I've seen anything other than white or black shrink they're horribly mismatched colors and it just looks awful.


----------



## Shane1244

Yeah, with coloured sleeving you're trying to hide the contrast between the sleeving and the heatshrink. Even if the colour is 100% the same, you cant get rid of the texture differences, so it'll always stick out like a sore thumb.


----------



## Xien16

Really


----------



## Shane1244

Really. The ugliness of the red is hidden by the sexiness of the black and white.


----------



## PapaSmurf

That's is subjective just like the color choice for the sleeve you use. While I agree that some colors of shrink don't match as well as others, it's all about personal preference. Calling it ugly is uncalled for though. Saying you don't think it looks as good would be a more appropriate response.

But in my opinion, what looks really bad is uneven shrink or extremely long shrink. That has a very unbalanced look to it and gives the appearance of sloppy workmanship.

I'll sum this up by saying the intent and purpose of this thread should be to offer encouragement and advice about sleeving. That means offering CONSTRUCTIVE criticisms of ones work and technique, not bashing it. The use of the word UGLY is not constructive criticism in any way, shape, or form and I find it appalling that anyone would have the audacity to use that term in a thread such as this.


----------



## Copenhagen69

Hmmm I guess if I cannot match everything to the exact color I will just get all white heatshrink for my sleeving since white sleeving will be the main color.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Get whatever YOU (or your customer if it is for someone else) think will look best. All white should look very good.


----------



## sprower

@PapaSmurf While I agree with your point lets not over dramatize it.







Quote:


> I find it appalling that anyone would have the audacity to use that term in a thread such as this.


Honestly now? It's his opinion about how the colored shrink looks and not quality of anyones workmanship. What's so appalling about it?


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13356204*
> Get whatever YOU (or your customer if it is for someone else) think will look best. All white should look very good.


I will be getting white as the main and then 2 of the blues to go along with it. just not sure what 2 blues yet lol


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69;13353685*
> would you say this is relatively close to what they look like?
> http://psychosleeve.com/colors/sata%201.jpg


You guys need to remember that monitors can be pretty different in the way they reproduce colors. It might look very lifelike for someone and quite off for someone else.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shane1244;13355433*
> Yeah, with coloured sleeving you're trying to hide the contrast between the sleeving and the heatshrink. Even if the colour is 100% the same, you cant get rid of the texture differences, so it'll always stick out like a sore thumb.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shane1244;13355478*
> Really. The ugliness of the red is hidden by the sexiness of the black and white.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13355740*
> That's is subjective just like the color choice for the sleeve you use. While I agree that some colors of shrink don't match as well as others, it's all about personal preference. Calling it ugly is uncalled for though. Saying you don't think it looks as good would be a more appropriate response.
> 
> But in my opinion, what looks really bad is uneven shrink or extremely long shrink. That has a very unbalanced look to it and gives the appearance of sloppy workmanship.
> 
> I'll sum this up by saying the intent and purpose of this thread should be to offer encouragement and advice about sleeving. That means offering CONSTRUCTIVE criticisms of ones work and technique, not bashing it. The use of the word UGLY is not constructive criticism in any way, shape, or form and I find it appalling that anyone would have the audacity to use that term in a thread such as this.


Criticism is first quote.

If you think that's appalling, then you need to step into the real world sweetheart. I said I didn't like the colours, nothing else. Anyone with eyes would clearly be able to tell I wouldn't be able to bash any other part about his sleeving as it's near perfection.

Grow up, and chill out.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

There's really no need for the attitude, from anyone, and honestly I see no backseat moderating here; if any REAL moderating needs to be done, I'll gladly do it. The look achieved by sleeving is COMPLETELY subjective, there's no point in taking each other's opinions so seriously.


----------



## Born4TheSky

so.. I have 24 Pin cable and 8 pin that I want to sleeve...
Sleeving that I have: Black, Grey, titanium grey, red, color-x, white... how would you do it?

and here is my setup


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp;13357247*
> There's really no need for the attitude, from anyone, and honestly I see no backseat moderating here; if any REAL moderating needs to be done, I'll gladly do it. The look achieved by sleeving is COMPLETELY subjective, there's no point in taking each other's opinions so seriously.


Couldn't agree more. Nothing in this world is better than anything else.


----------



## zactillow

On a lighter note,
I just ordered 100' of 1/8" Black Clean Cut and 10' of Black 3/16" 3:1 Heat Shrink from Furry Letters. $25.50 Shipped. It's my first time sleeving and I plan to do my XFX power supply. What's a good home made tool to get the wires out of the connectors? I've heard about staples and safety pins but nothing with instruction. Any help is appreciated! Wish me luck!


----------



## Shane1244

I'd say the best homemade tool is taking a rotary tool to a flathead screwdriver.


----------



## CrimsonMango

Zita Vass is the beauty in my avatar


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Yeah took all of a couple minutes to google search it up, thanks though









If Urban hadn't mentioned tin eye I might have never found her


----------



## CalypsoRaz

24 pin, 6 pin x2 and 8 pin albeit hard to see









Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Nice ^^

Now get that 470 under water


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zactillow;13357599*
> What's a good home made tool to get the wires out of the connectors? I've heard about staples and safety pins but nothing with instruction. Any help is appreciated! Wish me luck!


Using staples is cheap and fairly easy albeit slightly more time consuming.








Most of the time I had to use the molex aux extractor to push them out as to not strip the wire because the staples were tight.

Here's one of the safety pin variety as well. There aren't instructions but the pics are self explanitory.
http://www.overclock.net/other-hardware-mods/662039-cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion.html#post8377153

Good luck!


----------



## Ceadderman

Meh I think your pic speaks to itself as to the need for an ATX tool.

I use the one in this first pic and it's available for $10+shipping from performance-pcs.com

The second pic is my Molex tool which I got from MDPC-x which is a really functional tool for how cheap it is.

And the third tool is the one I could've saved $40 on that I had to purchase from performance-pcs.com because I thought that I could get away with doing something for nothing and used both staples and the diaper pin tool.

If you have a Corsair or Seasonic PSU, forget cheaping out. They're difficult enough to separate from their connectors with a proper tool. No need to complicate things by cheaping out.... Oh and weighing in on the color shrink? I think that it looks rather nice when you cut a different path and alternate the color with the black or white sleeves depending on the color. I think my red shrink looks rather nifty on my Black Sleeves.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## sprower

^^Just speaking from my limited experience with it.







If that atx tool is the one that came with the Sunbeam kit you're better off with the staples half the time...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower;13359375*
> ^^Just speaking from my limited experience with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If that atx tool is the one that came with the Sunbeam kit you're better off with the staples half the time...


Nope it's not from SunBeam. I honestly do not know who makes it but it's pretty tough considering the price I paid for it.

The thing is though that any tool so long as the tips are spring steel should be up to the task without breakage. You don't have to flex on them at all. Which imh:2cents:, is the cause of most breakage regarding pin tools. Yes there are some really cheaply constructed tools that should never have seen the light of day as a tool. Those round single piece tools being one of them. Sure in some instances they work but they're round and as anyone that ever used a tool can tell you round hand tools have a habit of spinning in your hand when they need to maintain steady pressure. Couple that with difficult pins like you'll find on Seasonic Boxes and that's a recipe for frustration.

I use a combination of tools when I'm confronted with a stubborn connector. One of which is a solder probe with the straight tip. A little pressure on one side then the other will narrow the pin enough to get the tool over the barbs and get them to collapse enough to pull the lead. You don't even have to hold the pin tool and personally you shouldn't have to. Just don't jank on the lead otherwise that tool is going to be catapulted out of the connector. That can be pretty dangerous if people walk in and out of your work area.

With this tool having the single tip as well however, I use the single tip to collapse stubborn pins one side at a time. It will not damage the pin, and it makes short work of stubborn pin/connector issues without breaking the pin in the housing(I've gotten a couple of those without a pin tool) or pulling the wire out of the pin also leaving it inside the housing.

Trust me with the PSUs' that I've sleeved, you're better off with a reliable pin tool. If this one was not up to snuff, it would not be on my bench. And I will not promote a tool if it is not on my bench.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## CrimsonMango

1/16" thick 5055 aluminum sheet

10-32 threaded button head machine screw + nut

two ground-down steel jigsaw blades

= ATX/P4/EPS/PCI-E pin remover

cost = free (already had all the parts)


















works 10 times better than ANY tool I've ever bought for the purpose

not to mention that the steel jigsaw blades don't bend or break nearly as easily as the prongs on the POS ATX pin removers that everyone sells... I mean come on, they're strong enough to cut through metal while reciprocating 50+ times per second - easily strong enough to remove some lil' punk ass molex pins


----------



## Ceadderman

I dunno, but maybe it might be safer if you used a longer bolt and added a couple washers to both sides to hold those blades a bit more firmly.

Still as I point out a lot of it is in how you use the tool. If you're the kind of guy that uses a long piece of pipe as a cheater bar, there aren't many tools that will stand up very long to the kind of abuse you would have no thought about doling out to it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## CrimsonMango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13361276*
> I dunno, but maybe it might be safer if you used a longer bolt and added a couple washers to both sides to hold those blades a bit more firmly.


I've had that tool for the last year and a half, and the two prongs haven't moved yet - trust me, that 10-32 screw is torqued down on them, plus its got some blue Loctite 242 on the screw just in case


----------



## CrimsonMango

ATX 24-pin wires twisted:


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Man, that looks like slow, monotonous work. ^^

Kudos to you for enduring all of it.


----------



## CrimsonMango

Milwaukee 8 amp heavy duty drill w/ 1/2" chuck










insert wires into chuck:










twist:










done:


----------



## HootyHoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CrimsonMango*


Milwaukee 8 amp heavy duty drill w/ 1/2" chuck











What drill? I don't see a drill.


----------



## sprower

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Nope it's not from SunBeam. I honestly do not know who makes it but it's pretty tough considering the price I paid for it.

~Ceadder










Sorry.. now that I read that again it does sound like I was asking you Ceadder. I was referring to my sunbeam tool there. lol I don't know if it's the tool or these connectors but I've had more luck with a staple and half the tool. No worries though. I'm about done with it all now and it definitely got easier along the way.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth*


Man, that looks like slow, monotonous work. ^^

Kudos to you for enduring all of it.


You can do that pretty quick with a drill. I assume that's what he did since they are wound so tight.









*edit ninja'd!


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Alright, who's the chic on the mousepad?


----------



## CrimsonMango

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sprower*


Sorry.. now that I read that again it does sound like I was asking you Ceadder. I was referring to my sunbeam tool there. lol I don't know if it's the tool or these connectors but I've had more luck with a staple and half the tool. No worries though. I'm about done with it all now and it definitely got easier along the way.

You can do that pretty quick with a drill. I assume that's what he did since they are wound so tight.









*edit ninja'd!


If I knew her name, I would've been inside her a LONG time ago... found the pic on 4chan a couple years back, and since then its been both my desktop background and under my mouse pad.

WiiMote, Linux t-shirt, and SNES panties...


----------



## UrbanSmooth

NES, not SNES.


----------



## Shane1244

Creepy. Thats as custom mouse pad.


----------



## CrimsonMango

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth*


NES, not SNES.



apologies.

btw... it's not a custom mouse pad - it's a giant desk pad that I got from a buddy at Office Depot that they use under the keyboards of display computers... it has a clear lift-up insert-a-picture top, and I printed out a high-resolution photo of NES la femme and put it in there


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CrimsonMango*


1/16" thick 5055 aluminum sheet

10-32 threaded button head machine screw + nut

two ground-down steel jigsaw blades

= ATX/P4/EPS/PCI-E pin remover

cost = free (already had all the parts)










works 10 times better than ANY tool I've ever bought for the purpose

not to mention that the steel jigsaw blades don't bend or break nearly as easily as the prongs on the POS ATX pin removers that everyone sells... I mean come on, they're strong enough to cut through metal while reciprocating 50+ times per second - easily strong enough to remove some lil' punk ass molex pins


Now that is slick. I think I have everything here to MacGyver one of those for myself.


----------



## preet27

So I am looking to do a sleeving job on my new rig (specs in my sign.) and i need some information that could be helpful, as i am a first timer to the whole sleeving thing.

Firstly is there a significant difference between FlexoPet and the MDPC sleeves ? Which one's are recommended?

Secondly can anyone plz tell me different Dia of Braided sleeve's and Heatshrink Sleeve's needed to do an average Sleeving mod? (That will be sufficient to cover my RIG)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *preet27*


So I am looking to do a sleeving job on my new rig (specs in my sign.) and i need some information that could be helpful, as i am a first timer to the whole sleeving thing.

Firstly is there a significant difference between FlexoPet and the MDPC sleeves ? Which one's are recommended?

Secondly can anyone plz tell me different Dia of Braided sleeve's and Heatshrink Sleeve's needed to do an average Sleeving mod? (That will be sufficient to cover my RIG)


Well 8th inch is the standard that you would need for sleeving single cables. If you get MDPC, I would suggest buying the MDPC shrink because it's 3:1 shrink ratio. Most shrink you will find is 2:1.

MDPC I think is the best but it can be a bit spendy depending on how much you need to do the work. I'm still not done with my system(almost finished though) and I've purchased 60 meters of single sleeve(which is 8th inch) 40mBlack/20mRed 5 Meters of SATA sleeve a number of shrink that I cannot remember off the top of my head(I think 6m of Red and Black single) and 1 meter of Red SATA shrink Not including the thick 2/3 of an inch off branded Sleeve I used to tie everything together at the PSU. The Euro to US Dollar exchange rate is 1:1.5 so you'll be spending $1.50 for every Euro an item is priced at. Which honestly isn't that bad considering the Pound to Dollar ratio is 1:1.80 if Nils were in the UK. Shipping from Germany has come down depending on the size of the Pack you purchase. Base shipping is 9.05 Euro. So figure $15 just for shipping.

Now as to the difference MDPC has the best look in comparison to the other weaves imh









FlexoPet is what $3.34 for every ten feet. MDPC is easily twice that but you get roughly 40 feet(39.47=10m). So for me dollar for dollar it's relatively even in cost. In fact what makes MDPC so expensive is the shipping as the shipping for FlexoPet isn't near $15 because you can get it from Amazon for free if you spend up to the required dollar amount.

So all in all it's what you figure you're willing to spend and then figure is the best bang for your buck.









Family packs are nice but I buy the colors I need. I spent less on the sleeving that way.









~Ceadder


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Well 8th inch is the standard that you would need for sleeving single cables. *If you get MDPC, I would suggest buying the MDPC shrink because it's 3:1 shrink ratio. *Most shrink you will find is 2:1.

MDPC I think is the best but it can be a bit spendy depending on how much you need to do the work. I'm still not done with my system(almost finished though) and I've purchased 60 meters of single sleeve(which is 8th inch) 40mBlack/20mRed 5 Meters of SATA sleeve a number of shrink that I cannot remember off the top of my head(I think 6m of Red and Black single) and 1 meter of Red SATA shrink Not including the thick 2/3 of an inch off branded Sleeve I used to tie everything together at the PSU. The Euro to US Dollar exchange rate is 1:1.5 so you'll be spending $1.50 for every Euro an item is priced at. Which honestly isn't that bad considering the Pound to Dollar ratio is 1:1.80 if Nils were in the UK. Shipping from Germany has come down depending on the size of the Pack you purchase. Base shipping is 9.05 Euro. So figure $15 just for shipping.

Now as to the difference MDPC has the best look in comparison to the other weaves imh









FlexoPet is what $3.34 for every ten feet. MDPC is easily twice that but you get roughly 40 feet(39.47=10m). So for me dollar for dollar it's relatively even in cost. In fact what makes MDPC so expensive is the shipping as the shipping for FlexoPet isn't near $15 because you can get it from Amazon for free if you spend up to the required dollar amount.

So all in all it's what you figure you're willing to spend and then figure is the best bang for your buck.









Family packs are nice but I buy the colors I need. I spent less on the sleeving that way.









~Ceadder










Small Heatshrink from MDPC is 4:1 Homie. =)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Small Heatshrink from MDPC is 4:1 Homie. =)


Potato Pototto Tomato Tomotto 3:1 4:1 let's call the whole thing off. It's still better than the 2:1 stuff that is available around the market.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Potato Pototto Tomato Tomotto 3:1 4:1 let's call the whole thing off. It's still better than the 2:1 stuff that is available around the market.







lol

~Ceadder











LOL, there is a big difference between 3:1 and 4:1, and if its thin walled or not. And 4:1 thin walled is what makes useing MDPC Heatshrink like working with magic! The only reason I mention it is because we want to make sure people have the right information.









I used 3:1 on the whole Katharos Mod, and while it does get the job done, it requires a little bit longer length, and even then it isnâ€™t as secure as MDPC HS.

But yea man *way* better than 2:1.


----------



## Ceadderman

LOL Tru tru.

I just redid the shrink and sleeve on my Molex tool and it looks so much better than it did before. My OCD was workin overtime whenever I picked it up and the other day one of the ends slipped when I was undoing one of the moles from my Controller connectors to remove the excess leads. So you know it had to be done. That's the problem with shrinkin bare tube metal the shrink slips.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Copenhagen69

do people buy the precut lengths of heat shrink from MDPC or buy long tubes and cut it themselves. 15mm seems a little long?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


do people buy the precut lengths of heat shrink from MDPC or buy long tubes and cut it themselves. 15mm seems a little long?


The precut pieces are perfect. And they save you lots of time. I always prefer them over the tube. But that is my opinion.


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;13364661*
> The precut pieces are perfect. And they save you lots of time. I always prefer them over the tube. But that is my opinion.


Same here

If applied on the pin (as suggested by Nils) you would end up with 4-5 mm of heatshrink that will be in sight coming out of the connector









My recently sleeved 24pin ATX (gray+color-x)









close up of the 6pin GPU power plug









GPU powered up









Seasonic X-760 back (all cables are custom cut from new wires)


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;13364661*
> The precut pieces are perfect. And they save you lots of time. I always prefer them over the tube. But that is my opinion.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oc_geek;13367181*
> Same here
> 
> If applied on the pin (as suggested by Nils) you would end up with 4-5 mm of heatshrink that will be in sight coming out of the connector
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My recently sleeved 24pin ATX (gray+color-x)


Ok thanks guys for the input, I will go precut


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69;13367999*
> Ok thanks guys for the input, I will go precut


U wellcome man and enjoy ur sleeving !









Edit: Hey Cope one more thing, when u order it go wide i tell u... it seems a lot of pieces but u eat up them as candies...i'm already after 3rd order lot because i was too short at start...but i sleeved everithing around


----------



## Ceadderman

Sissies.







lol

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oc_geek*


U wellcome man and enjoy ur sleeving !
















Edit: Hey Cope one more thing, when u order it go wide i tell u... it seems a lot of pieces but u eat up them as candies...i'm already after 3rd order lot because i was too short at start...but i sleeved everithing around 


haha thanks for the warning









I will buy a lot more than I think I need just in case


----------



## CrimsonMango

finished twisting all the wires on my Zippy PSL-6C00V 1200 watt PSU

bundles from left to right:

24-pin ATX
3x 5-pin SATA
2x 8-pin EPS 12v + 1x P4
4x 4-pin molex
4x 8-pin (6+2) PCI-E


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CrimsonMango*


finished twisting all the wires on my Zippy PSL-6C00V 1200 watt PSU

bundles from left to right:

24-pin ATX
3x 5-pin SATA
2x 8-pin EPS 12v + 1x P4
4x 4-pin molex
4x 8-pin (6+2) PCI-E




























wow cant wait to see what you come up with on sleeving now ..


----------



## zactillow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oc_geek*


If applied on the pin (as suggested by Nils) you would end up with 4-5 mm of heatshrink that will be in sight coming out of the connector


How far up on the pin? Could you get me a reference pic by any chance?

@Shane1244 how did Furry Letters 3/16" 3:1 black heat shrink work out for you for 1/8" clean cut sleeving?


----------



## CrimsonMango

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


wow cant wait to see what you come up with on sleeving now ..










not telling anyone about my sleeving plans yet - you're going to have to wait and see what I have planned

all I'm going to say is that NO ONE has ever done it yet, and that it's going to look SUPER CLEAN - cleaner than ANY uni-sleeving job that anyone has ever done


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zactillow*


How far up on the pin? Could you get me a reference pic by any chance?

@Shane1244 how did Furry Letters 3/16" 3:1 black heat shrink work out for you for 1/8" clean cut sleeving?


You take the 15mm and run it up over the knuckle(insulation crimp) As close to the back part of the operational pin as you can get it. It takes some practice to get 4-5mm exactly on the part that is exposed but once you get a good feel for it you should be able to match it up pretty much every time you shrink a pin.

To get a good result I use a +2pin connector so I can figure out how it will look before I lock the cable into its connector. I keep the barbs collapsed which allows me to pull it out of the guide connector. I'm in the process of building a 4pin guide that has a single spot open and the other spots are filled with sleeved connections that are short. This allows the pin to be worked with and gives me a solid reference of how it will turn out once the shrink has been properly applied.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CrimsonMango*


not telling anyone about my sleeving plans yet - you're going to have to wait and see what I have planned

all I'm going to say is that NO ONE has ever done it yet, and that it's going to look SUPER CLEAN - cleaner than ANY uni-sleeving job that anyone has ever done










Man I'm looking forward to nothing but good results mango. But Mate you're nuts with all the unmarked cabling.









Looking at that I keep cringing an picturing a nuclear cloud puff of smoke emanating from your part of the world.









~Ceadder


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zactillow*


How far up on the pin? Could you get me a reference pic by any chance?

@Shane1244 how did Furry Letters 3/16" 3:1 black heat shrink work out for you for 1/8" clean cut sleeving?












Hope that helps. That is 3:1 techflex shrink and Clean Cut.


----------



## zactillow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;13373643*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope that helps. That is 3:1 techflex shrink and Clean Cut.


And what does that look like while inside the connector? Thanks!


----------



## Infrabasse

I might be wrong but this seems longer than the mdpcx precut heatshrink. I'd start the heatshrink a bit further back, so you keep a good grip on the sleeve if the precut is shorter than this.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zactillow;13377385*
> And what does that look like while inside the connector? Thanks!


Somewhat like the picture below. I posted this one so you can see where the shrink finishes up on the sleeve outside of the connector. This is using MDCP Black w/ MDPC Red 4:1 Heatshrink.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zactillow;13377385*
> And what does that look like while inside the connector? Thanks!











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;13377477*
> I might be wrong but this seems longer than the mdpcx precut heatshrink. I'd start the heatshrink a bit further back, so you keep a good grip on the sleeve if the precut is shorter than this.


I would put it in the same spot. The reason the shrink is a little longer on that one is because of it being only 3:1 shrink. MDPC is 4:1 and will hug it perfectly but the start point for the shrink is the same.


----------



## zactillow

Thanks!


----------



## zactillow

So what lengths did you cut the heatshrink to?


----------



## Ceadderman

15mm









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Lutro0

I use a Jig like this..










And for the Katharos Mod I cut them to 2 1/2 CM. Granted that is not "standard" and you could get away with shorter, but the HS I used (techflex 3:1) did not "hug" the best.


----------



## zactillow

So are the 2 horizontal blocks where the sleeving stops and the wire pin stops at the vertical block while the heatshrink starts at the pin crimp?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zactillow;13377774*
> So are the 2 horizontal blocks where the sleeving stops and the wire pin stops at the vertical block while the heatshrink starts at the pin crimp?


No, the jig is just for cutting the HS tubing. For what your talking about I took a peice of plastic and cut it to the exact space the sleeving needed to be from the tip of the atx connector. So when the sleeve and heatshrink is on the wire, I put the tool inbetween the sleeve and the tip of the connector and then pull down the heatshrink into place and shrink it. That way all of my wires are uniform.


----------



## CrimsonMango

and the fun begins:

tacked the wire to the molex with some solder










then crimped the molex pin over the soldered joint










thought I was going to have a more productive day - I thought I had found my mini-fit molex pins for the ATX/P4/EPS/PCI-E connectors, but apparently what I found was KK pins for USB/front panel connections... DAMN! - I had 2 rolls of 50 mini-fit pins, but they disappeared into thin air.... ugh... time to order more (but it sucks - www.action-electronics.com went out of business - they used to have the cheapest molex pins on the net)


----------



## Infrabasse

Forgive the poor sleeve placement. I'll try and better myself on the 24 pin.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

I'm sorry, what?

All I see is smoooth skin...


----------



## Rowey

I really want to see some sleeved mouse cables, anyway here's some cables my friend started doing and selling over eBay and his website. Just wondering if you guys could tell me what you think please? I mean for what he charges i think the cables are amazing! Not saying any names because i dont want to get warned for advertisement, thanks (sorry about the quality of some of the photo's)


----------



## Shane1244

Looks really good to me.


----------



## mastical

Yea looks good. What kind of sleeve and heat shrink?


----------



## Rowey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastical*


Yea looks good. What kind of sleeve and heat shrink?


PM'd


----------



## Shane1244

Link?


----------



## Rowey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


Link?


Ebay store

Website


----------



## Copenhagen69

cool looking stuff there!


----------



## Rowey

Cheers, rep goes to my mate though. He does a great job!


----------



## Shane1244

Was about to buy, the pricing is a wee bit steep after conversion.


----------



## Rowey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


Was about to buy, the pricing is a wee bit steep after conversion.


Ahh, i guess it is a bit too much for US apologies. But pricing is great for UK Apologies


----------



## Shane1244

Yeah, it was $40 for a 24 pin, and 2 six pins. I would have gotten it if it was around $5-$10 less.


----------



## Copenhagen69

going off those prices ...

does anyone know a ballpark figure for how much $$ it would take to sleeve a normal PSU with MDPC?


----------



## Faint

Wow, those are some nice extensions.

I might consider getting some if I can get some extra money.


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


going off those prices ...

does anyone know a ballpark figure for how much $$ it would take to sleeve a normal PSU with MDPC?


You shall be fine with around 50% of a "dumping pack small" (49.95 EU) + heatshrink (2.70EU/m) + shipping (9-18 EU) if u go single colour, more if you mix colours among them

Say very rough around 90-100 EU -> 120-130$

Sleeving is fun and passion....it's artistic expression of your soul...if u buy that ...too bad !







DIY !!


----------



## Rowey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Faint*


Wow, those are some nice extensions.

I might consider getting some if I can get some extra money.


Please do so, just consider extra shipping :/


----------



## zactillow

So my supplies came in from Furry Letters today, and I am having such a difficult time with getting the pins out of the connector. I tried staples and other things but nothing works. Any help?


----------



## mastical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zactillow;13398378*
> So my supplies came in from Furry Letters today, and I am having such a difficult time with getting the pins out of the connector. I tried staples and other things but nothing works. Any help?


The same time you push the tool in, push the wire pins in also.

Keep on trying, you'll get the hang of it.


----------



## zactillow

Yeah I did that as well, still nothing... Go Wings!


----------



## mastical

What tool are you using besides the staples?


----------



## zactillow

I tried dental tools, small screwdrivers, filed down paper clips. I understand how it works but its just not happening.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zactillow;13398378*
> So my supplies came in from Furry Letters today, and I am having such a difficult time with getting the pins out of the connector. I tried staples and other things but nothing works. Any help?


Try heating up the plastic connectors with a hair dryer to see if that loosens them up. That's helped several people with some stubborn ones.


----------



## MijnWraak

May have to pull harder than you're comfortable with. Those little tabs haven't broken on me yet. Pull 90% as hard as you can with your fingers. Usually not enough force to break them. Using tools to pull them out (pliers for example) it's hard to gauge how hard you're really pulling and may break a wing pretty easily.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Was about to suggest exactly what PapaSmurf said. It really does work a treat!


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Try heating up the plastic connectors with a hair dryer to see if that loosens them up. That's helped several people with some stubborn ones.


how hot are we talking?


----------



## sprower

Hot to the touch.. not enough to blister you or melt anything.







If you use a hair dryer you won't get it hot enough to mess anything up. Just be careful if you're using a heatgun.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice Double Helix Avvy sprower. Just realized what I was looking at or I would have complemented earlier.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## oc_geek




----------



## superhead91

@oc_geek I'm lovin the colors. Is that mdpc-x?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


@oc_geek I'm lovin the colors. Is that mdpc-x?


Yup.

It's from his build log here.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*


Yup.

It's from his build log here.


Lol, yeah I looked at it right after I asked and saw that it was.


----------



## sprower

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Nice Double Helix Avvy sprower. Just realized what I was looking at or I would have complemented earlier.









~Ceadder










Thanks! I love seeing it laying down.. but teh bubbles ARGG!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sprower*


Thanks! I love seeing it laying down.. but teh bubbles ARGG!










Hey man you have a killer system why aren't you Folding for OCNChimpin in Chimp Challenge. It's one week. Just one.

Same for the rest of you guys. I fold 24/7 on my lowly rig +1. But we need EVERYBODY to pitch in.








*Chimp Challenge Recruitment 5th-15th May 2011 OCN vs The World*









~Ceadder


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13413081*
> @oc_geek I'm lovin the colors. Is that mdpc-x?


yep also the avatr i'm using is a Nils drawing...
he is really master in drawing too!

Colors are Gray and Color-X


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13415928*
> Hey man you have a killer system why aren't you Folding for OCNChimpin in Chimp Challenge. It's one week. Just one.
> 
> Same for the rest of you guys. I fold 24/7 on my lowly rig +1. But we need EVERYBODY to pitch in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Chimp Challenge Recruitment 5th-15th May 2011 OCN vs The World*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I was aiming to make this my first year but I was slow to get it done in time and just got her under water last night.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower;13416808*
> I was aiming to make this my first year but I was slow to get it done in time and just got her under water last night.


Never too late to get started.









We need all the help we can get. The little upstarts, Beavers Gone Bananas, are pulling further and further away from us will all the -bigadv units they've been running.

I think they have a couple server farms.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13416864*
> Never too late to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We need all the help we can get. The little upstarts, Beavers Gone Bananas, are pulling further and further away from us will all the -bigadv units they've been running.
> 
> I think they have a couple server farms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Nice. I didn't realize you could join after it started... guess I haven't read up on it all that well. I'll definitely try to get the rest of it crushed out today then.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower;13417053*
> Nice. I didn't realize you could join after it started... guess I haven't read up on it all that well. I'll definitely try to get the rest of it crushed out today then.


Yuppers! You most certainly can.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oc_geek;13416286*
> yep also the avatr i'm using is a Nils drawing...
> he is really master in drawing too!
> 
> Colors are Gray and Color-X


Just really goes to show how much different lighting can make a difference in color. The color-x in your picture looks so much darker than usual.


----------



## SmasherBasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zactillow;13398378*
> So my supplies came in from Furry Letters today, and I am having such a difficult time with getting the pins out of the connector. I tried staples and other things but nothing works. Any help?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastical;13398433*
> The same time you push the tool in, push the wire pins in also.
> 
> Keep on trying, you'll get the hang of it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zactillow;13398445*
> Yeah I did that as well, still nothing... Go Wings!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastical;13398464*
> What tool are you using besides the staples?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zactillow;13398509*
> I tried dental tools, small screwdrivers, filed down paper clips. I understand how it works but its just not happening.


If you're still having trouble getting the pins out, perhaps a proper pin extraction tool is in order. For the money, you can't go wrong.
http://ftwpc.com/cables-and-sleeving/sleeving-tools/the-original-molex-mini-fit-jr-pin-extraction-tool.html


----------



## zactillow

Staples ended up working great! 24 pin is done! Its far from perfect but I'm content with it and that's what matters.


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*


If you're still having trouble getting the pins out, perhaps a proper pin extraction tool is in order. For the money, you can't go wrong.
http://ftwpc.com/cables-and-sleeving...tion-tool.html


how does that one rack up against the MDPC tool?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69;13420538*
> how does that one rack up against the MDPC tool?


That IS the MDPC tool. Both are Molex Brand ATX tools.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


how does that one rack up against the MDPC tool?


Same tool, both are from the Molex Corporation.


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


That IS the MDPC tool. Both are Molex Brand ATX tools.









~Ceadder










oh sweet! .. a lot cheaper after the US to euro conversion haha

Thanks for the link!!


----------



## UrbanSmooth

This thread is lacking the sexy high-resolution shots of sleeving that we all need to survive!


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

I DEMAND HIGH RESOLUTION COIL SHOTS!

Where are you Fshizl, Martin, and Xien16?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*


I DEMAND HIGH RESOLUTION COIL SHOTS!

Where are you Fshizl, Martin, and Xien16?


Not the same but I think those guys are Folding. So I'll fill in where I can.









I know it's not that hot secsy goodness but it'll hopefully do.









~Ceadder


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Is good, it'll tide me over


----------



## grassh0ppa

White sleeving is a pain in the ass.

Almost wishing I didn't start this project, my PCIe cable doesn't look so hot. Gonna take a break from it for a bit and just to one cable per week instead of making it one huge project.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;13426065*
> White sleeving is a pain in the ass.
> 
> Almost wishing I didn't start this project, my PCIe cable doesn't look so hot. Gonna take a break from it for a bit and just to one cable per week instead of making it one huge project.


Did you pick up a can of Testers to spray your cables white as you go?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13427074*
> Did you pick up a can of Testers to spray your cables white as you go?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


yea I might just do that. Taping is crazy, but someone told me the paint would crack. what kind of paint should I use?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;13427133*
> yea I might just do that. Taping is crazy, but someone told me the paint would crack. what kind of paint should I use?


Use Testors spray paint. It's made for plastics and that's what the insulation is made of. Just don't get too ham handed with it and you'll be fine.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## grassh0ppa

thanks man +rep.

Also, what are the chances that sleeving a PSU could mess with power and give me a blue death screen? I only did my PCIe cables for the 6950 I have and my comp crashes duing BFBC2....havent OCd or anything.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Life....fading....neeed....

Need....

C....COIL...SSHH...SHHH..C-C-C...COI......SHHOOOOO........


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa*


thanks man +rep.

Also, what are the chances that sleeving a PSU could mess with power and give me a blue death screen? I only did my PCIe cables for the 6950 I have and my comp crashes duing BFBC2....havent OCd or anything.


Sleeving will only cause problems if you mess up the connectors doing it. I've seen a couple of people yank on the wires trying to get them out of the plastic connectors and broke some of the wires in the strand going into the metal pins limiting the amount of current that is transferred to the component.


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Sleeving will only cause problems if you mess up the connectors doing it. I've seen a couple of people yank on the wires trying to get them out of the plastic connectors and broke some of the wires in the strand going into the metal pins limiting the amount of current that is transferred to the component.


I'm really not so sure this has any impact at all.
Broken strands limit the sq area but it's on such a small distance I doubt it'd change anything at all.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sprower*


Thanks! I love seeing it laying down.. but teh bubbles ARGG!










I love the bubbles! I have mine mounted horizontally at the top of the case and it is so sexy. Bubbles make it look alive I reckon







(Not that I ever have many bubbles







)


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infrabasse*


I'm really not so sure this has any impact at all.
Broken strands limit the sq area but it's on such a small distance I doubt it'd change anything at all.


I know for a fact that it can. I've run into it on more than one occasion.


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Sleeving will only cause problems if you mess up the connectors doing it. I've seen a couple of people yank on the wires trying to get them out of the plastic connectors and broke some of the wires in the strand going into the metal pins limiting the amount of current that is transferred to the component.


yea i definitely didn't do any damage like that. I dont think its a power issue, I think I was just paranoid about my sleeving job. I'm suspecting its a driver issue, or perhaps an issue with bfbc2 because I can play HoN without crashing.

I just finished my 8 pin CPU cord and the spray ppaint works so, so, so much better than taping. the heatshrink looks so much more uniform and the cables are tighter.

To anyone thinking of using white sleeving:

1. Reconsider your colour scheme,
2. dont use white eletrical tape, use spray paint to paint the cords,
3. or buy white 16 AWG wire, crimps and connectors and redo all the cables.


----------



## Ceadderman

Either buy crimps and connectors but better still is to have a solid Soldering tool and the knowledge of how to use it on hand. I love this Weller tool. It's gotten me out of some tough jams in the past.

And yes broken wires do impact the power distribution from the PSU. The best power is clean power. The more breaks in a strand the slower the response time. Just the reminder we all need to be careful with power distribution wires.









~Ceadder


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I hated using tape. Made the wires much more difficult to manipulate because they were stiffer. Spray paint is definitely the way to go


----------



## Shane1244

Sleeved my Sennheiser HD555's today.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


Sleeved my Sennheiser HD555's today.


Pics or it didn't happen.









~Ceadder


----------



## SmasherBasher

What's wrong with white?


----------



## Ceadderman

Nothing as long as it's not MDPC white. Cause MDPC white has bleed through and unless your cables are white, the White will show up as tinted. i.e. Pink Orange etc.









Nothing a can of Testors white can't handle though.









~Ceadder


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Nothing as long as it's not MDPC white. Cause MDPC white has bleed through and unless your cables are white, the White will show up as tinted. i.e. Pink Orange etc.









Nothing a can of Testors white can't handle though.









~Ceadder










does it really bleed through?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


does it really bleed through?


The color does. Black shows up Grey, Reds show up Pink etc. There is nothing wrong with White MDPC itself, it's the cables that go inside them is the issue. So long as you get some Testors White(or any white that works on plastics), it won't even be an issue.









~Ceadder


----------



## grassh0ppa

make sure to spay them from a good distance... 6-12 inches id say to avoid putting to much paint on because it drips off. Even if you don't do a good job at painting, as long as it is white the sleeve will hide imperfections


----------



## cyclometric

I sleeved my Corsair HX650, and somehow messed it up in the process. I started a thread about it here and in the meantime, bought a GS600 so I could at least power on my computer.

As I stated in the last post in that thread, I hate to throw away my HX650, because overall I am positive it is still a solid unit, once whatever I messed up has been fixed. I really don't know what I did, though, because I have been over all of the wires on the 24 pin and replaced all of the pins with new ones, soldered on very securely, and none of the pins are mis-shapen. And the 8 pin connector seems good, too. The PSU passes the paperclip test, but connecting it to the mobo results in no power, though I do get some kind of signal that quickly flashes power but no post, or anything near a real boot. I know this isn't the right thread for this, but just thought I'd ask here since someone else may have messed up their PSU in the sleeving process. I'll gladly post pics of my sleeving job, which I was pretty satisfied with, once I get past this disaster.

Thanks,


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyclometric;13437637*
> I sleeved my Corsair HX650, and somehow messed it up in the process. I started a thread about it here and in the meantime, bought a GS600 so I could at least power on my computer.
> 
> As I stated in the last post in that thread, I hate to throw away my HX650, because overall I am positive it is still a solid unit, once whatever I messed up has been fixed. I really don't know what I did, though, because I have been over all of the wires on the 24 pin and replaced all of the pins with new ones, soldered on very securely, and none of the pins are mis-shapen. And the 8 pin connector seems good, too. The PSU passes the paperclip test, but connecting it to the mobo results in no power, though I do get some kind of signal that quickly flashes power but no post, or anything near a real boot. I know this isn't the right thread for this, but just thought I'd ask here since someone else may have messed up their PSU in the sleeving process. I'll gladly post pics of my sleeving job, which I was pretty satisfied with, once I get past this disaster.
> 
> Thanks,


I have the color chart if you need it. You might have gotten one or more of your wires crossed.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## hzac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seven9st surfer;8438524*
> Here's a few pics from my latest build.
> ]


Excuse me for sounding noobish, because i am. But what is the red and blue connections on the ride hand side? and what is its purpose?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hzac;13437810*
> Excuse me for sounding noobish, because i am. But what is the red and blue connections on the ride hand side? and what is its purpose?


Its a block terminal. Its an easy way to wire many fans (and anything else really) to one power source.


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13437769*
> I have the color chart if you need it. You might have gotten one or more of your wires crossed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Thanks, but I already checked and that's not the issue. :-( Maybe I'll consider opening up the box and seeing if there is an obvious issue. . . I could probably do that without too much risk, as long as don't touch anything. I don't want to take the thread too far off topic, so plz PM me if you have any ideas.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyclometric;13438614*
> Thanks, but I already checked and that's not the issue. :-( Maybe I'll consider opening up the box and seeing if there is an obvious issue. . . I could probably do that without too much risk, as long as don't touch anything. I don't want to take the thread too far off topic, so plz PM me if you have any ideas.


Well if your pins are in the right connections maybe you don't have something hooked up properly(GPU, SATA Power etc.)?

Sometimes it's the thing that we least expect it to be.

I was thinking that your MoBo may not be grounded properly but your other PSU is running things smooth enough to boot so that couldn't be it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## mastical

If you open the psu there goes your warranty or was it already voided by what you did?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastical*


If you open the psu there goes your warranty or was it already voided by what you did?


He's already voided it by cutting the wires and soldering on different ends so that isn't even a consideration at this point.


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


He's already voided it by cutting the wires and soldering on different ends so that isn't even a consideration at this point.


I'd really rather not open the PSU, but yeah, warranty is kaput. But just tested voltages (not under load of course) and verified all are perfect... that's a good thing, there's hope yet.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cyclometric*


I'd really rather not open the PSU, but yeah, warranty is kaput. But just tested voltages (not under load of course) and verified all are perfect... that's a good thing, there's hope yet. 


Did you check the voltages on EVERY wire of the 24pin and 8pin (or 4+4pin) cpu/eps connector? If not you need to do so.


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Did you check the voltages on EVERY wire of the 24pin and 8pin (or 4+4pin) cpu/eps connector? If not you need to do so.


I tested voltages on the wires circled in red in this picture. I did not test the +5VSB (purple) or -12V (blue) wires... should I?


----------



## PapaSmurf

No, that should be fine. I've just seen people test only one of the +3.3, +5, and +12v wires in the plugs instead of all of them.

Be sure to check all of the com (or ground) wires too.


----------



## jacobthellamer

My first go at it, just playing with a couple of sample/practice mdpc pieces and a molex to sata power adaptor


































Guess what I'm cooking up


----------



## RideZiLightning

Work I've done for members so far


----------



## Copenhagen69

woooo ordered my sleeving ... should have some pics friday I think ...


----------



## Forsaken_id

Sleeving 14 Gentle Typhoons currently. . .not as much fun as I'd hoped.


----------



## mastical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id;13459131*
> Sleeving 14 Gentle Typhoons currently. . .not as much fun as I'd hoped.


Send me 3, he he


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id;13459131*
> Sleeving 14 Gentle Typhoons currently. . .not as much fun as I'd hoped.


what colors?


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69;13459288*
> what colors?


Just regular boring black clean cut. I only add green to my stuff you'll see in my case.


----------



## Monocog007

I only read like the first 150 pages of the thread,







but i didnt see anything in there about paracord. Does anybody recommend using 550 paracord for individual sleeving? I'd like to see some pics too if anybody has them. I have a $75 non-modular PSU and didn't want the spending to get too out of hand thats why i'm not shelling out for MDPC-X just yet. thanks!


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Monocog007*


I only read like the first 150 pages of the thread,







but i didnt see anything in there about paracord. Does anybody recommend using 550 paracord for individual sleeving? I'd like to see some pics too if anybody has them. I have a $75 non-modular PSU and didn't want the spending to get too out of hand thats why i'm not shelling out for MDPC-X just yet. thanks!



Quote:



Originally Posted by *RideZiLightning*


Work I've done for members so far



















































































I have some paracord 450 coming in tomorrow I should have some pics later at night

also the somewhat official paracord thread here: http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...-offering.html


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Monocog007*


I only read like the first 150 pages of the thread,







but i didnt see anything in there about paracord. Does anybody recommend using 550 paracord for individual sleeving? I'd like to see some pics too if anybody has them. I have a $75 non-modular PSU and didn't want the spending to get too out of hand thats why i'm not shelling out for MDPC-X just yet. thanks!


Paracord has it's own thread. It's the cheapest way to go, but some people don't like the look as well as actual sleeve and they don't like the drawbacks it has when used as sleeve. It isn't as expandable so it can be more difficult to work with.

http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...-offering.html

This is a comparison of the various types of sleeve. 
http://www.overclock.net/other-hardw...omparison.html


----------



## Copenhagen69

I was looking at the comparison and they had a link to ebay ... Why is there no 450 paracord on ebay, it is all 550?


----------



## PapaSmurf

There has been some on Ebay in the past. Unlike actual sleeve which is only available from a few sources, paracord is available from way to many sources to keep active links on a forum post. There are a lot of sources other than Fleabay to get it.


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


There has been some on Ebay in the past. Unlike actual sleeve which is only available from a few sources, paracord is available from way to many sources to keep active links on a forum post. There are a lot of sources other than Fleabay to get it.


Oh I know that ... I just thought it was weird that ebay had none at all.









I got mine from the store linked in the paracord thread and they shipped same day ... good place so far and we shall see what it looks like when it gets here tomorrow


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Monocog007*


I only read like the first 150 pages of the thread,







but i didnt see anything in there about paracord. Does anybody recommend using 550 paracord for individual sleeving? I'd like to see some pics too if anybody has them. I have a $75 non-modular PSU and didn't want the spending to get too out of hand thats why i'm not shelling out for MDPC-X just yet. thanks!


I bought some of that 550 paracord from ebay, originally intending to sleeve all my wires with it, but then decided to use Furrletters Black CleanCut for the majority, and I just used the 550 Neon Green paracord as an accent color, and only on wires which I knew would not be extremely difficult to work thru the paracord, because it is tricker to work with than plastic sleeving. But I am happy with the results, and you can't beat the price. Just understand it's limitations, and make sure to keep the ends cut nice and clean, heat them before they fray, and if they do fray, snip away the thready pieces to be able to fit it inside the heatshrink.

Here are a few pix of cables I used the 550 on:


----------



## Copenhagen69

that is a sweet looking green


----------



## IntelLover

What tools do you guys use?

I was thinking of getting
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3836/too-07/FrozenCPU_Dual_Head_ATX_Connector_Removal_Tool_ATX_4-pin_P4_6-pin_PCI-E_8-pin_Xeon_Auxiliary_3-pin_or_4-pin_Fan_Flop.html?tl=g44c133s257

and
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3835/too-05/Dual_Ended_Universal_Molex_Removal_Tool.html?tl=g44c133s257


----------



## Mugen87

That second tool looks good. For 10 bucks not bad.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IntelLover;13486855*
> What tools do you guys use?
> 
> I was thinking of getting
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3836/too-07/FrozenCPU_Dual_Head_ATX_Connector_Removal_Tool_ATX_4-pin_P4_6-pin_PCI-E_8-pin_Xeon_Auxiliary_3-pin_or_4-pin_Fan_Flop.html?tl=g44c133s257
> 
> and
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3835/too-05/Dual_Ended_Universal_Molex_Removal_Tool.html?tl=g44c133s257


I have the first tool. You will like it so long as you learn how to use it properly.

If someone is making a purchase from MDPC you're better off buying the tubes and making you own Molex tool.

Much sturdier too.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I have the first tool. You will like it so long as you learn how to use it properly.


what do you mean by using it properly?

I just snapped my cheap ass sunbeam wire removal tool. So now I need to buy a new one























The one linked above from frozencpu looks good ....suggestions?


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


what do you mean by using it properly?

I just snapped my cheap ass sunbeam wire removal tool. So now I need to buy a new one























The one linked above from frozencpu looks good ....suggestions?


The ones like the one pictured below are much more resilient, but even so, these are fragile tools we are talking about. If you use even a bit too much force, not only can it break the tool, the pin and/or wire can easily be damaged, causing a lot of grief over such a tiny little thing, it is almost hard to believe sometimes how much trouble just one bad pin or wire can cause.

I haven't done this a lot, but enough, and I sometimes catch myself starting to try to force the tool in, or pull really hard on the wire if the pin isn't coming out... these are all things that can end badly (_Ca va finir mal_, they would say in French)


----------



## Copenhagen69

I was sleeving mine on the GPU power connector ... the 2 pin that adds to the 6 ... it was fighting and never got it out, by the time it broke my dang tool.

I guess I will try that tool out and see how it goes


----------



## Copenhagen69

This is some of what I got done before I snapped my tool. What ya think?










That is the one I broke off




















































Any tips on the double wired ones? those are rough and make my sleeving looking like crap haha. Or is it just going to be that way? maybe use shorter heatshrink on those?


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


This is some of what I got done before I snapped my tool. What ya think?

That is the one I broke off
















Any tips on the double wired ones? those are rough and make my sleeving looking like crap haha. Or is it just going to be that way? maybe use shorter heatshrink on those?


Looks pretty good man... nice job with the paracord, and I like the color combo, very "winter fresh" feeling, lol.









The double wired ones are a pain for sure.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69;13495569*
> This is some of what I got done before I snapped my tool. What ya think?
> 
> That is the one I broke off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any tips on the double wired ones? those are rough and make my sleeving looking like crap haha. Or is it just going to be that way? maybe use shorter heatshrink on those?












This is how I did the molex for the Katharos Mod. I just stretched the cable with a needle nose pliers a tad and put both in one shrink. Made sure to stack the shrink all the same to make it clean.


----------



## fshizl




----------



## Ceadderman

Is that a film splicer Shiz?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13499305*
> Is that a film splicer Shiz?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


the mini cutting board? lol no its to cut my heatshrink...


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*











This is how I did the molex for the Katharos Mod. I just stretched the cable with a needle nose pliers a tad and put both in one shrink. Made sure to stack the shrink all the same to make it clean.


I dont think there is any way my shrink could fit 2 wires and sleeving inside it ...


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69;13500684*
> I dont think there is any way my shrink could fit 2 wires and sleeving inside it ...


Get a needle nose pliers and put it into the shrink and pull out on the handles slowly and in small amounts, you will prolly break a couple shrinks pieces before you get the hang of it, but your shrink *should* stretch enough to be able to get two in there. Takes some time and patience.


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Get a needle nose pliers and put it into the shrink and pull out on the handles slowly and in small amounts, you will prolly break a couple shrinks pieces before you get the hang of it, but your shrink *should* stretch enough to be able to get two in there. Takes some time and patience.


ooooh ok ... that makes sense now. basically just stretching the shrink to the breaking point almost, right?


----------



## Infrabasse

Not sure about stretching it that far. The thing is, mdpc-x sleeve is 4:1 and the small one is actually pretty large and can accomodate 2 wires fairly easily. If you're not sporting mdpc sleeve you might have a problem. Just go for the next size up.

That aside, do you guys think I'm asking for trouble using 15mm precut for the task at hand? It's not leaving much to grip with, shall I try and cut a batch of 20mm long?


----------



## Copenhagen69

ya I am using furryletters 3:1 shrink ...

@infra

what in the world is that LOL!
looks pretty cool though. I would think you would be fine as long as you are not twisting and turning the wire too much


----------



## Infrabasse

I'm forced to remove the insulator on this thicker than usual wire for it to fit inside my passthrough molex connectors. 
So yeah, that's what it is









Previous attempts


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infrabasse*


Not sure about stretching it that far. The thing is, mdpc-x sleeve is 4:1 and the small one is actually pretty large and can accomodate 2 wires fairly easily. If you're not sporting mdpc sleeve you might have a problem. Just go for the next size up.

That aside, do you guys think I'm asking for trouble using 15mm precut for the task at hand? It's not leaving much to grip with, shall I try and cut a batch of 20mm long?



Go with 20mm still might be a bit short but would certainly look better. Might even be easier to get them back into the SATA connections without slipping the shrink.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


ooooh ok ... that makes sense now. basically just stretching the shrink to the breaking point almost, right?


 If you go that much you've broken more than necessary. Just insert the nose of the pliers open them to snug add a little pressure. Flip the shrink 180 and do it again for the other side. It doesn't take much pressure to open it up. and to be honest you shouldn't need to if you secure the sleeving against fray.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


the mini cutting board? lol no its to cut my heatshrink...



I knew what it was, I'm asking what the actual item is. Or is that what I need to look up to find it? Heatshrink cutter? You know me, Mr. Inquisitive.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


ya I am using furryletters 3:1 shrink ...

@infra

what in the world is that LOL!
looks pretty cool though. I would think you would be fine as long as you are not twisting and turning the wire too much


3:1 furry is what is in that pic as well =) So its fully possible with that shrink.


----------



## Infrabasse

ok I'm shrinking with 20mm now, it's much much better. I was just being lazy trying to work with the batch of pre-cut I have. I'm really happy with how it's going on. Can't wait to show you guys the end result


----------



## Somenamehere

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


the mini cutting board? lol no its to cut my heatshrink...


Where did you get that if you dont mind me asking ?


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Somenamehere*


Where did you get that if you dont mind me asking ?


Look on ebay for guillotines, theres quite a few in the Business & Industrial section


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


the mini cutting board? lol no its to cut my heatshrink...


As Cadder was already asking... 
if u don't mind me too to ask 
where did you get it from 
looks pretty nice tool









Thanks in advance


----------



## fshizl

here it is guys, link to the place..

http://shop.osorail.com/product.sc?productId=278&categoryId=15


----------



## UrbanSmooth

"The Chopper"


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


here it is guys, link to the place..

http://shop.osorail.com/product.sc?p...&categoryId=15


Oh crap I should have recognized it for what it was. But to be honest it's been 20 years since I been up in the Attic with my Grandfather. He had a hell of a H0 scale setup. Even had a very pricey Brass Engine on the track. He didn't believe in display cases.









Well I now know where to find one. Not a bad price either. Do you cut your sleeve with it too Shiz or is it just used strictly for shrink?









~Ceadder


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Just how easy would it be to sleeve the SG05BB-450's wires, PSU included?


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


here it is guys, link to the place..

http://shop.osorail.com/product.sc?p...&categoryId=15


Thanks
Will have to see if i found "The Chopper"








here around in EU...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth*


Just how easy would it be to sleeve the SG05BB-450's wires, PSU included?


Shouldn't be hard to do at all. The only thing is do you want to crack the Case and bust the warranty or do you want it sleeved up to the case, which will require some creativity to that end.

Also would you want the cables shortened to keep the clutter to a minimum.

Sleeving is only limited by your needs and your warranty.









I need to get this system off the damn work surface so I can get the rest of this job done. This is what happens when you're the tech guy in the family and circle of acquaintances. Everyone comes to you with their issues. This time it's my Mom's system, so you know it cannot go back anywhere near less than 100%. If it goes down after it leaves my table I'll NEVER hear the end of it. Especially so close to Mother's Day. Love her but she'll never leave me alone on the Grandkid front...









~Ceadder


----------



## KShirza1

ready for sleeving and liquid


----------



## Eyedea

Damn, just finished my 24pin atx extension. If i had seen these earlier i would of bought some, infact i might still do









@Roweyi7


----------



## Necrodox

There is my MDPC order, can't wait to get it all. How long does shipping normally take?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Depends on where you are in the world. 10 days to 2 weeks to the USA/Canada seems to be normal. Europe should be shorter, but I have no idea about other parts of the world.


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Necrodox*


There is my MDPC order, can't wait to get it all. How long does shipping normally take?


The clips are really handy...you could have added the washers and caps too those give the final touch









(P.S. From Germany to Italy it normaly takes 10 days)










Best


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I live in New Zealand and mine takes about a week to arrive generally. Not bad considering we're pretty far away from Europe! First time took 2 weeks but ever since it has been one week.


----------



## Necrodox

Yeah I didn't want to fall short with the clips so I got every variant and I didn't really see the caps in any system so I don't know how they look but from the picture I didn't think I would like it.


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oc_geek*


The clips are really handy...you could have added the washers and caps too those give the final touch









(P.S. From Germany to Italy it normaly takes 10 days)










Best


does anyone know the actual size of those clips? I was thinking some like this ...
https://www.fastenal.com/web/product...ex?sku=0708910

1/4" Black Cable Clamp









I am just wondering if the holes will require a small enough screw that can fit into the mobo tray?


----------



## Eyedea

Just got my extensions from Roweyi7 and they are epic!! Cant believe they are so cheap :O


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


does anyone know the actual size of those clips? I was thinking some like this ...
https://www.fastenal.com/web/product...ex?sku=0708910

1/4" Black Cable Clamp









I am just wondering if the holes will require a small enough screw that can fit into the mobo tray?


Those will require button head screws. I have the MDPC variety on my rig and those work fine with the socket head screws. Most cabinets work fine with 6-32 thread pitch screws Llian-Li requires M3 thread pitch I think.

If you are okay with fighting with them you can get 6 or 7 cables into each saddle. I can get 8(24pin) cables into mine. But to be on the safe side I think 7 is doable for you. And yes I think the standard is .25 inch.

Ouch head hurts, I need to go back and lay down now, caught a stupid Cold. I love the temperate climate up here in Washington but I left the window open fell asleep and weather change gave it to me. Woke up Sunday with my sinus passage feeling like someone ran 80 grit over it.










I'm gonna go back to sleep. Unfortunately everything gets put on hold. I'm not into spreading my germs.









~Ceadder


----------



## Copenhagen69

I dont mind button head screws ... I just want them to be able to fit into the mobo tray


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69;13532070*
> does anyone know the actual size of those clips?
> I am just wondering if the holes will require a small enough screw that can fit into the mobo tray?


If you were referring to the MDPC ones in my picture there are different sizes from 1 sigle sleevd cable up to 10 (Jumbo) and for them you can either use 6-32 or M3 depending on the skrew hole that is beneith
The number of cables that can fit is stamped on the back of the clip which is pretty handy if you mix them up...









I used the 1, 7 and 8 variants. The former is the one that was pictured in the back panel cable mgm

best


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oc_geek;13538899*
> If you were referring to the MDPC ones in my picture there are different sizes from 1 sigle sleevd cable up to 10 (Jumbo) and for them you can either use 6-32 or M3 depending on the skrew hole that is beneith
> The number of cables that can fit is stamped on the back of the clip which is pretty handy if you mix them up...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the 1, 7 and 8 variants. The former is the one that was pictured in the back panel cable mgm
> 
> best


any possible way you could measure the opening of the 1 7 and 8 vairants? Just curious what sizes I need to be looking for ....








:thumbsups


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69;13538985*
> any possible way you could measure the opening of the 1 7 and 8 vairants? Just curious what sizes I need to be looking for ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :thumbsups


sure no prob here is what i measure as ID (opening for the sleeved wires to go into)

1 is 5mm (called small) 10x @2.25 EU
7 is 11 mm (called medium) 10x @2.30 EU
8 is 13 mm (called big) 10x @2.75 EU
i haven't bought the Jumbo (which is said to take 12) 10x @2.98 EU

welcome

EDIT: i just checked on the MDPC website and the one stamped as 7 says it is for 6 (perhaps takes 7 too i think..)


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oc_geek;13539047*
> sure no prob here is what i measure as ID (opening for the sleeved wires to go into)
> 
> 1 is 5mm (called small) 10x @2.25 EU
> 7 is 11 mm (called medium) 10x @2.30 EU
> 8 is 13 mm (called big) 10x @2.75 EU
> i haven't bought the Jumbo (which is said to take 12) 10x @2.98 EU
> 
> welcome
> 
> EDIT: i just checked on the MDPC website and the one stamped as 7 says it is for 6 (perhaps takes 7 too i think..)


Thanks so much! +1


----------



## Rowey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eyedea;13534978*
> Just got my extensions from Roweyi7 and they are epic!! Cant believe they are so cheap :O


Haha, they are good. I actually use them myself. It's not me that actually makes them i just show them of to people for him (because they are ery good i must admit), its my mate







Still thanks for the business.


----------



## Eyedea

Same colour as i got









I'll see if i can give him a plug on some other forums like, maybe get him a few more sales


----------



## idaWHALE

so about how long would you say it takes to do a single sleeve (both when you stated and your fastest)? thanks


----------



## animal0307

Well I think I'm going to jump on the sleeving train with some paracord. Only question. 550 or 650 paracord?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Most people are using 450 or 550. This thread covers paracord.

http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-general-discussion/775454-cheap-beautiful-sleeving-guide-now-offering.html


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307;13557056*
> Well I think I'm going to jump on the sleeving train with some paracord. Only question. 550 or 650 paracord?


I use 450 and I love the stuff!


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13557216*
> Most people are using 450 or 550. This thread covers paracord.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-general-discussion/775454-cheap-beautiful-sleeving-guide-now-offering.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69;13558228*
> I use 450 and I love the stuff!


Cool. Thanks guys,


----------



## Sem

im about to order some sleeving gear for my 3 Gentle Typhoons

is 4mm braid and 4.8mm 2:1 Heat shrink ok or should i go thicker or thinner

also what is the recommended thickness of braid/heatshrink if i wanted to sleeve this molex to sata connector since it has 4 wires

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/20cm-serial-ata-power-converter-rb-414-4pin-molex-to-15pin-sata-%28normal-psu-to-sata-sataii%29

[Edit]
just wanted to add i dont want to braid the wires on that sata connector individually i would like to braid all 4 at once so im guessing 6-7mm is ok?

Thanks


----------



## Infrabasse

Well, removing the cable's insulator where the wire goes into the connector worked pretty good for me


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infrabasse*


Well, removing the cable's insulator where the wire goes into the connector worked pretty good for me














it worked with heatshrink over it?


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


it worked with heatshrink over it?



Yeah, that's what I've done:

Only what you see on this test is 15mm long heatshrink but I eventually had to go for 20mm instead


----------



## fshizl

your powering all those hard drives from one plug?


----------



## Infrabasse

No, I'm using 2 lines straight from the PSU (each of these braided wires is soldered to 2 wires coming off the PSU's PCB) . No intermediate connector, and I'm using twice the standard wire section. I think I have it covered


----------



## Copenhagen69

how many hard drives is on that line anyways? Cant count with the blurry pic lol


----------



## Infrabasse

8 but the line extends into the upper 5.25" cage in case I need stuff there


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;13559697*
> Well, removing the cable's insulator where the wire goes into the connector worked pretty good for me


Nice job!


----------



## rheicel

where can i buy those cable sleeve and shrinks? i live in sydney(AU), thanks.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rheicel;13589886*
> where can i buy those cable sleeve and shrinks? i live in sydney(AU), thanks.


MDPC-X.com


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;13589948*
> MDPC-X.com


ty


----------



## nigelke

sweet sleevers donw this place


----------



## Xien16




----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xien16;13596869*
> *snip*


I'm assuming those are LED strips? That mustave been fun.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Pretty Xien









What are those little squares though?


----------



## Xien16

Here the "squares" are illuminated


















@ Ceadderman:
The PCB for the strips was made by me so it is no problem to sleeve them


----------



## Ceadderman

single or SATA sleeve?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Awesome


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Edit


----------



## SKl

Yeah ive seen these been made up, ill find it if anyones interested? lol


----------



## Xien16

It is small MDPC-X sleeve









This is what they look like without sleeve:


----------



## SKl

nice,

i see you have a golf XD

i have a mk3 golf and a mk2 with a vr6 in it i do all of the work on them
(well i put the v6 in the mk2 haha).


----------



## Ceadderman

You have a link for those xien?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Xien16

link

@ SKl: I know it is off topic - but is it a normal VR6 or turbo?
The normal version sounds so much better than the turbo version - but ~200hp isn't ~500/600hp


----------



## SKl

Those look pretty awesome







,

its just normal haha im only 18 so struggled to afford the standard, hopefully turbo it after uni







then go onto syncro drivetrain aswell, i







: my mk2.
a couple of mates have rallyes they are something else lol.


----------



## Tator Tot

A quick teaser shot till I have access to a better camera to use; but that's some of FTW PC's new cable sleeving.

Top is Furry Letters Clean Cut
Middle is FTW PC's new sleeving (not out yet)
Bottom is MDPC-X White

Heatshrink is also FTW PC, but excuse the bad job as I did a rush on those three strands as they were my "victims" of testing.

So far, MDPC's sleeving burns the fastest when next to an open flame, but FTW PC does not (so just be careful when using a Zippo/Lighter to shrink the heatshrink.)

FTW PC & MDPC both have incredibly tight weaves on them, even when not streched out.
FTW PC's sleeving _may_ be tighter.

Some drawbacks to the new FTW PC sleeving is that it's a bit stiff (as it has a coating on it to keep it from catching on fire and it keeps it from fraying.)
On the up side, it looks as nice as MDPC sleeving, but it hardly frays at all. Just snipping the ends will not cause it to fray. A consideration, is it's a bit thicker than MDPC.

I can't give out a word on pricing or anything yet (I'll let FTW PC handle all of that) but the sample for FL-CC & FTW PC Sleeving was all supplied by FTW PC.

MDPC White is my own.

FTW PC will also be selling heatshrink (which I used for that photo, but don't pay attention to that part) and it's just as nice as MDPC in terms of grip, but I think it's just a hair thicker.

Long story short, their new sleeving is awesome. I think you'll all like the price as well.
For a state side option, or even international, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend this stuff.

I also encourage anyone here to do their own comparisons of it once it's available to the market.

Personally, I loved working with the stuff, as the fact that it doesn't burn or fray is very nice. It makes work much easier if you're inexperienced, or in a rush.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot;13598497*
> For a state side option, or even international, *I would hesitate* to recommend this stuff.


I think you meant wouldn't hesitate.


----------



## Tator Tot

Fixed that, sometimes my typing quickly gets the better of me.
It's great stuff.

Easily fits 3 x 20 AWG wires w/ pins connected even.


----------



## micul

Here is my work in progress. For now only the Pci-E :

I work in a harness shop , so i had good tools on hand : heat gun , hot tweezers and crimp tool. All the wires are crimped with new socket contacts. Sleeve and heatshrink is from MDPC-X .
I have a OCZ MOD XSTREAM -PRO 700Watt power supply. It is not the best power supply out there but for 50 $ after MIR is ok for me. Still have to order some new connectors and a few days i will stay late at work to finish all the wires.
One small issue is that on this power supply the wires are coming out really hard.

I really have to learn how to take good pictures. LOL


----------



## Tator Tot

Nice, that the MDPC bloodred?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot;13598818*
> Fixed that, sometimes my typing quickly gets the better of me.
> It's great stuff.
> 
> Easily fits 3 x 20 AWG wires w/ pins connected even.


I know the feeling. I think a lot faster than I can type these days (darn arthritis).

I hope they have some in Neon/UV Yellow and are willing to sell in smaller quantities than Nil's does.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xien16;13597598*
> link










Nein eist Englander link!









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13598985*
> I know the feeling. I think a lot faster than I can type these days (darn arthritis).
> 
> I hope they have some in Neon/UV Yellow and are willing to sell in smaller quantities than Nil's does.


They have a thread about it in their section, so they may be able to say what colors they'll have available.

It's $0.39/Foot.

Dunno about the lowest quantity available to order though. You should ask and they'll probably be able to tell you.

Though, shipping on $0.39/foot sleeving will guaranteed be the most expensive part even if you ordered around 10 feet of it.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Looks like the colors will be -Black, White, Red, Blue, Green, and Orange. No mention of Yellow, but I posted asking about it.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Looks like the colors will be -Black, White, Red, Blue, Green, and Orange. No mention of Yellow, but I posted asking about it.


It may be an option available in the future, they're very open to suggestions.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


It may be an option available in the future, they're very open to suggestions.


That's what they said. Unfortunately I'm in the middle of a build and need about 5 feet of Neon Yellow that is UV reactive and there isn't any place to get it without buying it from Nils. I simply do not need enough of it to warrant spending that much to order 10 meters from him and no one else has it in Neon/UV Yellow. Paracord isn't an option as most of the places don't have the UV reactive stuff and the one place that claims they do absolutely rape you on shipping and won't tell you if they actually have it in stock or not. You don't find out until they ship it if they have any and that is simply unacceptable.


----------



## Tator Tot

That sucks man


----------



## Xien16

All professionals are using MDPC-X sleeve but again we are having the discussion









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*









Nein eist Englander link!









~Ceadder










Just send me an email if you have any questions


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13602899*
> That's what they said. Unfortunately I'm in the middle of a build and need about 5 feet of Neon Yellow that is UV reactive and there isn't any place to get it without buying it from Nils. I simply do not need enough of it to warrant spending that much to order 10 meters from him and no one else has it in Neon/UV Yellow. Paracord isn't an option as most of the places don't have the UV reactive stuff and the one place that claims they do absolutely rape you on shipping and won't tell you if they actually have it in stock or not. You don't find out until they ship it if they have any and that is simply unacceptable.


Not sure where you're looking for your paracord, but I bought mine on ebay, actually from a different store, but this seems like a great deal to me. It's the 550, not 450, but in a pinch, hey, $6 shipped seems like a good deal and worth trying, anyway.

I used 550 for some of my sleeving and had good results with it, as long as I only used it on wires that were easily passed thru the sleeving.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

I enjoy that I STILL get rep from this thread and I have not posted in it in over a year...









maybe I sould update my pics to what my build looks like now... it is far more impressive.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Xien16, that is a badass design and looks great. I actually like it better without the sleeving on the PCB itself cause it looks so good.


----------



## SmasherBasher

Thanks for the kind words, Tator. We are putting a lot of effort towards sleeving and are doing everything we can ahead of time to guarantee it's perfect at launch.

PapaSmurf, We have yellow Paracord in stock right now. here are some shots of it. We have not taken any under UV lighting conditions, but could get you the amount you need at a _very_ nice price given the small amount you need.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyclometric;13603795*
> Not sure where you're looking for your paracord, but I bought mine on ebay, actually from a different store, but this seems like a great deal to me. It's the 550, not 450, but in a pinch, hey, $6 shipped seems like a good deal and worth trying, anyway.
> 
> I used 550 for some of my sleeving and had good results with it, as long as I only used it on wires that were easily passed thru the sleeving.


None of the places on Fleabay that I have found have the UV Reactive Paracord. I sent that persona message to see what he says about his. But they wait 10 days after payment clears to ship, which is against the law in the USA so I wouldn't do business with them even if it was.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;13604023*
> 
> PapaSmurf, We have yellow Paracord in stock right now. here are some shots of it. We have not taken any under UV lighting conditions, but could get you the amount you need at a _very_ nice price given the small amount you need.


If it's UV Reactive I would be interested, but I would need to know for sure before ordering any.


----------



## SKl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13599094*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nein eist Englander link!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


use google chrome yo,

translates webpages about the only thing i use it for


----------



## t-ramp

I used Techflex Clean Cut and 3:1 3/16" heatshrink from Furryletters. Great stuff from a great guy. I'm never going back to paracord or, needless to say, regular PET.


----------



## Shane1244

Avoid taking pictures in direct sunlight. Go place it under that tree, it'll look way better.


----------



## SKl

My first time, its a work in progress my dslr's sd card died so only have phone at the moment


----------



## Martin S

MDPC-X Black, B-Magic, Grand Bleu:


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful, beautiful!

The most gorgeous and splendid sleeving job that I have seen on here in a while.


----------



## Copenhagen69

Martin what is your trick to getting them to line up the same every time?


----------



## micul

At my work place we are using some uncoated sleeve from Varflex company.
http://www.varflex.com/products.html

I brought home a few pieces. Unfortunately we are using only the natural color. With a spare connector what i have , look how it came out :


----------



## PapaSmurf

That looks pretty good. If you sleeved directly over the wires without painting them first then that dense weave is very impressive.


----------



## micul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13625060*
> That looks pretty good. If you sleeved directly over the wires without painting them first then that dense weave is very impressive.


Yes it is without paint. The best part is that is cheap aprox. 0.50$ per feet , and they have different colors to.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martin S;13620950*
> MDPC-X Black, B-Magic, Grand Bleu:


Very nice!


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martin S;13620950*
> MDPC-X Black, B-Magic, Grand Bleu:


i just cheers on my pants. my wish is one day will make one like this.
beautiful!


----------



## discrimin8

hi! kind of new here, but i've been watching this thread for a while. i'm aware that this thread is all about the DIY and being able to choose your own colored sleeves. but i was wondering if anybody has seen the bitfenix alchemy cables? i really like that some of the cables have no heat shrink. i was wondering if anybody has any clue about how to go about sleeving cables without having to use heatshrink (like their 24 pin cable). i was also wondering if anybody knows of a company that'll sell sleeving that's like the bitfenix sleeves (textile sleeve)

where i first saw these cables:





sorry i didn't want to put up the complete link, not really sure what the rules are for posting videos


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *discrimin8;13654978*
> hi! kind of new here, but i've been watching this thread for a while. i'm aware that this thread is all about the DIY and being able to choose your own colored sleeves. but i was wondering if anybody has seen the bitfenix alchemy cables? i really like that some of the cables have no heat shrink. i was wondering if anybody has any clue about how to go about sleeving cables without having to use heatshrink (like their 24 pin cable). i was also wondering if anybody knows of a company that'll sell sleeving that's like the bitfenix sleeves (textile sleeve)
> 
> where i first saw these cables:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry i didn't want to put up the complete link, not really sure what the rules are for posting videos


Posting videos is fine.

Generally you want to avoid videos that would go against our ToS (IE: ones with Racism or Swearing) but you generally dont' find that in tech related videos so they're almost always okay.

If their is swearing, please just give a warning before hand saying it's NSFW (Not Safe For Work.)

BitFenix's cables do use Heatshrink, just depends on the cable. Some use a glue to hold the sleeving inside the connector. Which is why not heatshrink is present.

It's obvious they use it when you look at their 3pin fan extension or any of the others with small connectors on the end.


----------



## discrimin8

oh so you're saying that with the 24 pin connector bitfenix probably uses some sort of glue? yeah i noticed that they still use heat shrinks with the smaller connectors like the 3 pin fan extension.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *discrimin8;13655189*
> oh so you're saying that with the 24 pin connector bitfenix probably uses some sort of glue? yeah i noticed that they still use heat shrinks with the smaller connectors like the 3 pin fan extension.


I have the 24pin connector right now actually, and yeah it's glued inside on both ends of the connectors.

The cable cord is similar in feel to what most mice have (like the Logitech G500 and G5 mice that I have.)


----------



## superhead91

How good is the bitfenix sleeving? I want to go MDPC-X someday, but I'm currently working on a wc loop, and am in college, and can't really afford the MDPC-X stuff right now. I'd just really like to get rid of the ugly cables that came with my PSU.


----------



## Ceadderman

Just save up and get the MDPC, super ole chum. I'm on College funding too, so I feel you. Just complete your loop and then go for the sleeving. I feel your pain on the ugly PSU sleeving. Only wished I'd have gone for my loop right off the bat instead of having to sell things to get it. But that's how it goes sometimes.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## superhead91

I'd think that PSU makers would get the idea and maybe start selling PSUs that have decent sleeving on them for a little more money. I'm sure plenty of people would be willing to shell out a little more cash for decent sleeving rather than the sleeving that's so bad it might as well not even be on the PSU. Oh well...


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13656942*
> How good is the bitfenix sleeving? I want to go MDPC-X someday, but I'm currently working on a wc loop, and am in college, and can't really afford the MDPC-X stuff right now. I'd just really like to get rid of the ugly cables that came with my PSU.


As good as what NZXT Offers, but more flexible.

On the other hand, I don't think it'll photograph as well as NZXT or MDPC-X would (as it really doesn't shine or stand out.)


----------



## von rottes

Lol yeah...I sleeved my PSU... *cough*
with Electrical tape.


Just didn't do the small wires
(fan & leds)
I think besides the fan & sata cables it looks pretty clean ^_^


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13657194*
> I'd think that PSU makers would get the idea and maybe start selling PSUs that have decent sleeving on them for a little more money. I'm sure plenty of people would be willing to shell out a little more cash for decent sleeving rather than the sleeving that's so bad it might as well not even be on the PSU. Oh well...


To my understanding, the whole point of custom sleeving is
1. to cut to custom length
2. to customize color to fit your theme

The only way you're gonna do that is by proposing seperate cable kits for modular PSUs and that's not gonna do something for length.

Standard sleeve is not bad, it's perfectly decent and adequate for the job.
Uni-sleeving probably makes airflow worse since it takes more space.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;13664136*
> To my understanding, the whole point of custom sleeving is
> 1. to cut to custom length
> 2. to customize color to fit your theme
> 
> The only way you're gonna do that is by proposing seperate cable kits for modular PSUs and that's not gonna do something for length.
> 
> Standard sleeve is not bad, it's perfectly decent and adequate for the job.
> Uni-sleeving probably makes airflow worse since it takes more space.


Well, I didn't mean offer it in a bunch of colors or even uni-sleeve the PSUs... Basically just some better black sleeving, to look semi-decent until you can afford to buy the good stuff. I guess it depends on the PSU manufacturer too, but the sleeving on my OCZ PSU is extremely see-through.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13666711*
> Well, I didn't mean offer it in a bunch of colors or even uni-sleeve the PSUs... Basically just some better black sleeving, to look semi-decent until you can afford to buy the good stuff. I guess it depends on the PSU manufacturer too, but the sleeving on my OCZ PSU is extremely see-through.


The problem is that most of the PSUs' on the market are manufactured and rebranded for the likes of Antec, Cooler Master, OCZ, Corsair etc. I think the only way for the PSUs' to have better sleeving is for the manufacturer of those PSUs'(Say Seasonic for instance) to only offer that sleeving. While this would be a noble effort on the part of the manufacturer if drives up the cost a little and the companies purchasing them for resale probably want to keep the costs down to not only give their customers a reasonable product at a reasonable price, but also protect their profit margin. The fluctuating price of supply could affect the bottom line.

Having had both an OCZ ModXStream Pro and my current PSU, I can say the sleeving was slightly better on the Corsair. Not by much but there wasn't a ton of color bleed through like there is on the OCZ models. Not sure who manufactures it for OCZ but the sleeving on those is pretty chinsy.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13668508*
> The problem is that most of the PSUs' on the market are manufactured and rebranded for the likes of Antec, Cooler Master, OCZ, Corsair etc. I think the only way for the PSUs' to have better sleeving is for the manufacturer of those PSUs'(Say Seasonic for instance) to only offer that sleeving. While this would be a noble effort on the part of the manufacturer if drives up the cost a little and the companies purchasing them for resale probably want to keep the costs down to not only give their customers a reasonable product at a reasonable price, but also protect their profit margin. The fluctuating price of supply could affect the bottom line.
> 
> Having had both an OCZ ModXStream Pro and my current PSU, I can say the sleeving was slightly better on the Corsair. Not by much but there wasn't a ton of color bleed through like there is on the OCZ models. Not sure who manufactures it for OCZ but the sleeving on those is pretty chinsy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Yeah... I know it'll never happen, but wishful thinking never hurt anyone...


----------



## cyclometric

. . . I had messed up my modular SATA power cable, (by putting the crimp-on connectors carelessly in the wrong orientation (which caused my then-freshly sleeved PSU not to start, and caused me a lot of grief to diagnose and tore out some perfectly decent sleeving on the 24 pin, too.)










Anyway, 3 weeks ago I asked Corsair for a replacement SATA cable. But the envelope in my mail today only had 2 modular 4-pin peripheral cables and no SATA power. Hopefully they can rectify this quickly... Am I ever going to finish this build?









At least now I've plenty of time to repair the 24 pin I made such a mess of, yippee.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyclometric;13671944*
> 
> Anyway, 3 weeks ago I asked Corsair for a replacement SATA cable. But the envelope in my mail today only had 2 modular 4-pin peripheral cables and no SATA power. Hopefully they can rectify this quickly... Am I ever going to finish this build?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least now I've plenty of time to repair the 24 pin I made such a mess of, yippee.


Bummer man, =/

hopefully they will replace it with quickness. =)


----------



## Ragsters

I want to sleeve some extensions but am having a hard time finding extensions with at least 18awg for cheap. What do you guys think of just buying a bunch of these and separate connectors to make my own extensions?

http://www.frys.com/product/6252540?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

If you don't understand I just want to remove the connectors and use the wires with the attached pins. At $3 for 8 wires I think it makes sense.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;13683727*
> I want to sleeve some extensions but am having a hard time finding extensions with at least 18awg for cheap. What do you guys think of just buying a bunch of these and separate connectors to make my own extensions?
> 
> http://www.frys.com/product/6252540?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
> 
> If you don't understand I just want to remove the connectors and use the wires with the attached pins. At $3 for 8 wires I think it makes sense.


Ive done it before and it works just fine.


----------



## Ooimo

I cant wait for my sleeving to arrive, my pc is going to look amazing


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;13686055*
> Ive done it before and it works just fine.


I mean a wire is a wire right?


----------



## PapaSmurf

As long as they have the correct connector pins and are the correct gauge they should be fine.


----------



## ammarmalik

Guys I need your suggestions regarding MDPC-X sleeving









What colors do you recommend? I was thinking 70% white and 30% color-x or 50% black and 50% titanium grey. What say you?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ammarmalik;13688166*
> Guys I need your suggestions regarding MDPC-X sleeving
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What colors do you recommend? I was thinking 70% white and 30% color-x or 50% black and 50% titanium grey. What say you?


in't you ask this in the HAF thread?









Go with 3 colors. Black, Titanium and Color-X. Should look spiffy on with that Formula board.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## ammarmalik

I did







I just need the most opinions I can get because I'll be ordering this shortly


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;13686539*
> I mean a wire is a wire right?


Yes and no, try to get the better quality ones, as ive had and seen my share of poorly made ones and they do and will effect system stability.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13687935*
> As long as they have the correct connector pins and are the correct gauge they should be fine.


This ^


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;13697850*
> Yes and no, try to get the better quality ones, as ive had and seen my share of poorly made ones and they do and will effect system stability.
> 
> This ^


Do you have any recommendations to where I can buy decent extensions or maybe some cheap connectors?


----------



## Infrabasse

PSU completed















I have both replaced wires and painted others for the white sleeve.


----------



## Copenhagen69

great job on the PSU!


----------



## mortimersnerd

The FTW PC Sleeving has been ordered, will be here in about 3 weeks: http://www.overclock.net/ftw-pc/1030417-ftw-pc-sleeving-promotion-sales-information.html


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mortimersnerd;13699018*
> The FTW PC Sleeving has been ordered, will be here in about 3 weeks: http://www.overclock.net/ftw-pc/1030417-ftw-pc-sleeving-promotion-sales-information.html


And if none of you noticed, they're having a little give away with it as well.

For any of you who are curious about the sleeving, I would get in on this now.


----------



## mortimersnerd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot;13699209*
> And if none of you noticed, they're having a little give away with it as well.
> 
> For any of you who are curious about the sleeving, I would get in on this now.


I forgot to mention that.









We are giving away two sleeving kits (150ft sleeving plus heat shrink).


----------



## SmasherBasher

I can't wait to see it when it gets here. I'm going to have to borrow a decent camera.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;13701328*
> I can't wait to see it when it gets here. I'm going to have to borrow a decent camera.


Focus on lighting.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shane1244;13701352*
> Focus on lighting.


This. My Lifecam Cinema takes really nice pics so long as the lighting is good.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## ReignsOfPower

Hi guys, really embarrassed posting this as I've modded basically every other cable in my system with sleeving and heatshrink, however, I can't for the life of me mod my Corsair AX1200 / HX1000 molex cables.
http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/2...0601204613.jpg
http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/4...0601204625.jpg
http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/7...0601204638.jpg
http://img857.imageshack.us/img857/2...0601204651.jpg

I want to be able to detach the short cable and simply leave that as a single-headed cable. Any ideas how it can be done? I've tried my Lamptron cable modding kit which works perfect on every other cable bar these molex ones







Any assistance will earn a lovely rep


----------



## Infrabasse

Maybe splitting the wires from the others would help pulling them out of the connector?
Is the PSU side connector something standard? You could just make you own cable.


----------



## ReignsOfPower

Aye could do I suppose. It's not really a standard end but I guess I could take the head off. Would rather just find an easy way to remove the short bit though


----------



## rheicel

first time sleeving


----------



## SmasherBasher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ReignsOfPower*


Hi guys, really embarrassed posting this as I've modded basically every other cable in my system with sleeving and heatshrink, however, I can't for the life of me mod my Corsair AX1200 / HX1000 molex cables.
http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/2...0601204613.jpg
http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/4...0601204625.jpg
http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/7...0601204638.jpg
http://img857.imageshack.us/img857/2...0601204651.jpg

I want to be able to detach the short cable and simply leave that as a single-headed cable. Any ideas how it can be done? I've tried my Lamptron cable modding kit which works perfect on every other cable bar these molex ones







Any assistance will earn a lovely rep










Corsair is famous for having very tight connectors. Having said that, I have no trouble getting pins out with a little persuasion and the original Molex extraction tool. Knockoffs simply won't work for that, as they don't apply enough pressure on the pin to release it. As for making a single headed connection, just cut it off at the connector. As long as there is no exposed wire, you'll be fine. Won't look as good as removing the pin, but it will work.

It just dawned on me you are mentioning the 4 pin round connectors.


----------



## Infrabasse

Has anyone experimented with this stuff?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infrabasse*


Has anyone experimented with this stuff?










very interesting... but at 2 bucks a foot


----------



## PapaSmurf

My thoughts exactly.


----------



## noak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;13713451*
> Has anyone experimented with this stuff?


1/2" diameter is way to big, unless you sleeve the cables into one braid. If this was $1/10 feet, it would be a huge thing


----------



## Ceadderman

2:1 ratio isn't very good either. But for SATA cables that might make a nifty shrink to blend into Black Sleeving.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## MooCwzRck

Alright, next week I am going to go ahead and order my sleeving and tools from MDPC:










Going to continue my PC's theme and do green and black alternating sleeving.

I am going to be sleeving all my fan cables in my HAF X, so thats about 4 3-pin fan connectors and cables, and one 4-pin for my Zalman heatsink fan.

I am also going to be doing the 24-pin motherboard cable. I already have an NZXT extention cable, so I am just going to re-do that one with the MDPC sleeving and heatshrink, and just reuse the NZXT cables and connectors.

They don't seem to have any 6-pin PCI-E connectors or the 8-pin motherboard power connectors, so I am thinking of just getting a few NZXT ones and re-doing those with the green sleeving, same as the 24-pin motherboard connector. Those 5 NZXT cables should end up costing me about 35 bucks shipped.

  24-Pin NZXT Motherboard Extension Cable
   6-Pin NZXT PCI-E Extension Cables
   8-Pin NZXT Motherboard Power Extension Cable

I'll be hopefully adding another Intel 510 SSD, so I'll have a train of 4 SATA power connectors as well, for all four drives, and individually sleeving the SATA cables.

Does this look like about everything I would need? All in all it looks like its going to run me about 130 bucks for all my cables, sleeving, and tools.

What do you guys think?

EDIT: Oh, and I went ahead and ordered    this as well, since it looks nicer and cleaner than the LED's I have so far, not to mention has dedicated power and intensity buttons unlike my current one, which is the only thing currently hooked up to my fan controller because half the other knobs on the controller stopped working...

I also plan to get    this NZXT cable as well for all the front panel stuff.

EDIT: went ahead and ordered the NZXT extension cables anyway, just in preparation, and a 2 meter led strip, in case 1 meter proved too small. I'll just return or give the one I don't use to a friend.


----------



## Ceadderman

Have you already got the other 40 meters of single?









You'll need AT LEAST 60 meters of single sleeve for a PSU. Best to get 70 and have extra than to get 60 and be short.









~Ceadder


----------



## thirdeyeop3n

I'm planning on doing some sleeving this summer and I wanted to get some feedback. I want to match the theme of my motherboard. I was thinking of going with black as the main color with either b-magic or aquamarine blue for highlights. And I will be sleeving an AX850.


----------



## MooCwzRck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13733586*
> Have you already got the other 40 meters of single?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll need AT LEAST 60 meters of single sleeve for a PSU. Best to get 70 and have extra than to get 60 and be short.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I am not going to be doing my whole PSU though, just the few visible cables as extensions. I did the measurements, and getting 10 meters of both colors will do me justice just fine. If I ever go as far as to get a Corsair AX850W or something I may go ahead and do full sleeving, but for now I'm going to keep in short and simple.


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thirdeyeop3n;13734648*
> I'm planning on doing some sleeving this summer and I wanted to get some feedback. I want to match the theme of my motherboard. I was thinking of going with black as the main color with either b-magic or aquamarine blue for highlights. And I will be sleeving an AX850.


I posted pictures a few days ago of B-Magic + Aquamarine + White on a similar motherboard.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;13698104*
> PSU completed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/8518/img0931b.jpg
> high res: http://img863.imageshack.us/img863/1329/img0931wt.jpg
> 
> http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/2258/img0934bu.jpg
> high res: http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/918/img0934lq.jpg
> 
> http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/4526/img0938b.jpg
> high res: http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/2201/img0938i.jpg


Hope that kinda helps.
Grand bleu really is a little too dark for the Asus blues.


----------



## thirdeyeop3n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;13735265*
> I posted pictures a few days ago of B-Magic + Aquamarine + White on a similar motherboard.
> 
> Hope that kinda helps.
> Grand bleu really is a little too dark for the Asus blues.


Wow! The white looks really good. Now I'm torn on what to get!!

I read that I need about 100-125 feet of sleeving and about 10 ft of heat shrink for an AX850. I will be monosleeving. Does that sound like enough? Also I saw that mdpc x offers pre-cut heat shrink. Would anyone recommend that over just cutting it myself? The pre-cut seems pretty short to me.


----------



## Infrabasse

The precut is perfect for pins, that's what I used. I needed longer lengthes for the passthrough connectors though.
I couldn't really tell you about length, I have my wires cut to length so I probably use less that a standard psu.


----------



## morphus1

Hey fellas,
I just got my PSU and had ordered from MDPC-X previously and got those 100% guaranty white sleeves.... well I'm sorry to say I'm not impressed. I know I should be covering then in white tape first but doesnt that kinda defeat the point of getting the sleeve in the first place? anyways I dont have any electrical tape handy can I use Masking tape instead? or will it burn at some stage.....

EDIT: It looks much better with the tape on, it also alot more stiff and that IMO is not a good thing :/


----------



## AusPC

I'd usually recommend White Electrical Tape or Acrylic Paint.


----------



## morphus1

yea but will masking tape burn?


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morphus1;13736633*
> yea but will masking tape burn?


it will not burn unless ur PC is.... but in time it will dry up and eventually become rigid and come off from the wires

As it was suggested go with electrical tape which is more elastic and doesn't burn either


----------



## morphus1

yea i didnt have any el. tape. so i went with nothing. Ihave one wire out and two empty slot now :/


----------



## Infrabasse

I recommend painting or swapping cables alltogether.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morphus1;13736442*
> Hey fellas,
> I just got my PSU and had ordered from MDPC-X previously and got those 100% guaranty white sleeves.... well I'm sorry to say I'm not impressed. I know I should be covering then in white tape first but doesnt that kinda defeat the point of getting the sleeve in the first place? anyways I dont have any electrical tape handy can I use Masking tape instead? or will it burn at some stage.....
> 
> EDIT: It looks much better with the tape on, it also alot more stiff and that IMO is not a good thing :/


Use Testors Flat white spray. Great stuff and not nearly as inflexible as tape.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Ragsters

Will anyone trade some of my black mdpc shrink for white?


----------



## ikem

first time sleeving, mdpc. also has anyone used the 1 inch heatshrink on frozencpu? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1918/ele-86/1_White_Heatshrink.html?tl=g35c179s366

turned of ok.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Nice build, looks like a mini fridge.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem;13756410*
> first time sleeving, mdpc. also has anyone used the 1 inch heatshrink on frozencpu? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1918/ele-86/1_White_Heatshrink.html?tl=g35c179s366
> 
> turned of ok.
> 
> *snip*


Yeah I've used something similar from performance-pcs.com. Works pretty well, but it takes forever to get it to shrink to the size I think you're wanting.

If you're after the Orange you'll have to rotate your work to keep it from getting sooty.









Looks awesome, me likey.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## ikem

does it come starting as 1 inch and what do u think the ratio was?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ikem*


does it come starting as 1 inch and what do u think the ratio was?


Techflex
3-1 Ratio Heat Shrink tubing
Operating temperature -55ÂºC to +135ÂºC and up to 200ÂºC for short durations.
Shrink Temperature (nominal) 90ÂºC
It's the Red Shrink holding everything together on my PCI-e cable.









~Ceadder


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem;13756410*
> first time sleeving, mdpc. also has anyone used the 1 inch heatshrink on frozencpu? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1918/ele-86/1_White_Heatshrink.html?tl=g35c179s366
> 
> turned of ok.


This looks awesome man!







You should get the new Gigabyte 990FXA-UD7. It's got some orange trim on it and it would look great in there. Since I'm in Knoxville I couldn't help but think how proud a Vols fan would be to own that build... Lol


----------



## Ramsey77

My first attempt at practicing custom sleeving using 1/8th and 1/4 inch material. I would have liked to do it all in 1/8 inch stuff, but I ran out and had to improvise. I did fold back and break quite a few barbs in the process, but replaced them with an old 6 pin harness I had laying around. I did finally catch on to the technique, and now I'd have to say it's pretty easy. I did learn quite a few tips and tricks from this thread, so thanks a lot.









Has anyone used this before? I can't believe the price: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/TECHFLEX-Sleeving-2RLL3?Pid=search

So here are some pics, what do you think?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77;13765731*
> 
> Has anyone used this before? I can't believe the price: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/TECHFLEX-Sleeving-2RLL3?Pid=search


After I looked at it I was going to go to Grainger and pick some up tomorrow, but they don't have it in stock.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13766085*
> After I looked at it I was going to go to Grainger and pick some up tomorrow, but they don't have it in stock.


$0.17 or so per foot isn't a bad price. Let me know if you find out anything.


----------



## PapaSmurf

I'm going to call them tomorrow to find out how long it takes to get it, but I'm not optimistic. Shipping to me was basically $10 so I doubt I will be ordering it from them.


----------



## Ramsey77

If it's decent enough stuff, even with shipping, it's darn near half the price of the normal PC stores. I've never had anything that was junk from either Grainger or McMaster-Carr, so I'm hopeful this stuff is quality as well.


----------



## PapaSmurf

It wouldn't be bad sleeve. The only problem is that for the purpose they sell it for which is cable management, even if the weave was fairly loose (re: you can readily see through it) it would be fine. It just might not have the dense weave that people here like. Barry (FurryLetters) charges $17 for 100 foot of his Clean Cut, but his shipping is less and we know what the quality of that sleeve is. That might be a better way to go for you.

Anyone have 20 to 25foot of Black MDPC single sleeve they can spare? I'm trying to finish up my Sniper build and the front I/O cables are a lot longer than I expected them to be. Shoot me a PM if you have any you can spare and I'll shoot you a PayPal to cover it shipped to 61109.


----------



## Ramsey77

I think that they both sell Techflex brand, so maybe it's the same exact stuff?


----------



## IntelLover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77;13766527*
> I think that they both sell Techflex brand, so maybe it's the same exact stuff?


Techflex makes a lot of different stuff. PET and CleanCut are what you commonly see. CleanCut is what you want to use.


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IntelLover;13766834*
> Techflex makes a lot of different stuff. PET and CleanCut are what you commonly see. CleanCut is what you want to use.


The Products _"PET Flexo"_ and _"Cleancut"_ are what you commonly see from Techflex.

Just wanted to add they are both made with PolyEthylene Terephthalate more commonly known as *"PET"*. The main difference between the two is the monofilament diameter. With _PET Flexo_ being 0.010cm and _CC_ 0.008cm .

The Reason why a sleeve will be marketed as "Fray Resistant" is due to the dense or tighter weaving of the sleeve that does not allow the monofilaments and trifilaments commonly known as triple weave to be separated thus such weaves are marketed as *"non-fray"*, However this is not due to any change in the actual material.

Therefore you can still expect fraying from *ANY* tightly woven sleeve and thus it is always better to hot knife or use a lighter to singe the ends


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AusPC;13781550*
> The Products _"PET Flexo"_ and _"Cleancut"_ are what you commonly see from Techflex.
> 
> Just wanted to add they are both made with PolyEthylene Terephthalate more commonly known as *"PET"*. The main difference between the two is the monofilament diameter. With _PET Flexo_ being 0.010cm and _CC_ 0.008cm .
> 
> The Reason why a sleeve will be marketed as "Fray Resistant" is due to the dense or tighter weaving of the sleeve that does not allow the monofilaments and trifilaments commonly known as triple weave to be separated thus such weaves are marketed as *"non-fray"*, However this is not due to any change in the actual material.
> 
> Therefore you can still expect fraying from *ANY* tightly woven sleeve and thus it is always better to hot knife or use a lighter to singe the ends


I'm no pro that's for sure but I've noticed that the Clean Cut doesn't fray the way that I cut it, however the MDPC sleeve does. Requires a more careful approach to cut it without it fraying.

EDIT: Adding pictures just for the sake of adding pictures







Can never have too many images in this thread.


----------



## Infrabasse

I use pet nail clippers to cut my sleeve. It's perfect for small sleeve but too small for anything else (small shrink etc). Maybe there's bigger ones around.

It cuts while compressing the sleeve, so it doesn't fray at all. Of course the sleeve still needs to be melted a little on the end to secure the cut.


----------



## Copenhagen69

great looking pics viper!


----------



## AusPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;13782225*
> I'm no pro that's for sure but I've noticed that the Clean Cut doesn't fray the way that I cut it, however the MDPC sleeve does. Requires a more careful approach to cut it without it fraying.
> 
> EDIT: Adding pictures just for the sake of adding pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can never have too many images in this thread.
> 
> -SNIP-
> 
> -SNIP-


I'll have to get my hands on some of that the Clean Cut to see for myself








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;13783066*
> I use pet nail clippers to cut my sleeve. It's perfect for small sleeve but too small for anything else (small shrink etc). Maybe there's bigger ones around.
> 
> It cuts while compressing the sleeve, so it doesn't fray at all. Of course the sleeve still needs to be melted a little on the end to secure the cut.


That's an _extremely_ useful tool, I would never have thought of that








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69;13791145*
> great looking pics viper!


I *Strongly* second this


----------



## ammarmalik

ordered black, grey and color X sleeve along with some screws and cable management clips. cant wait









thanks ceadder for the suggestion!


----------



## SmasherBasher

We are beginning pre-orders of FTW Sleeve tomorrow at 12pm EST. We have received word that it is being woven as we speak which puts us a good 2 weeks ahead of schedule.

More details here


----------



## `br4dz-

First time getting MDPC-X sleeving. Always used Techflex cleancut, here are some pics (got brand new gentle typhoons I wanted to show off too!)







.


----------



## Lutro0

^ looking good =D


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Where did you get those AP-15s?


----------



## Mugen87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13818690*
> Where did you get those AP-15s?










I was seconds away from starting a thread asking if this was a ligit sale on ap-15. I cant find them online, but ebay for 20+ bucks.


----------



## `br4dz-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13818690*
> Where did you get those AP-15s?


Bought them off of another OCN member, guess he had too many that he bought in bulk.


----------



## Ragsters

Anyone have violet and/or aquamarine sleeving you would be willing to trade for pretty much any other color?


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *`br4dz-;13819226*
> Bought them off of another OCN member, guess he had too many that he bought in bulk.


Can you PM me his contact info?


----------



## Martin S

MDPC-X Black and Orange:










MDPC-X Black, Grey, Color-X:


----------



## Agenesis

Just bought 300ft of 550 paracord from ebay, would this heatshrink work?

How much heatshrink would one need to sleeve the whole PSU?


----------



## PapaSmurf

As for how much you need you'll need to figure that out for yourself. Measure each of the cable bundles, multiply that by the number of wires in each, add all of that together, then add 15 or 25% extra just to make sure you have enough. You'll need about 5/8" to 3/4" of heatshrink for each end of a sleeve so determine how many actual sleeves you will be using (some cables like molex and sata power cables will use multiple shorter sleeves per wire), multiply that by 1.5", then add 35 to 45% extra since you'll waste more heatshrink than you will sleeve.

Don't forget to add in your fan wires, front case switch and led cables, etc. if you intend to sleeve them as well.

See the thread dedicated to using Paracord instead of actual Sleeving to determine what heatshrink to use.


----------



## Mugen87

Can anyone recommend a cheap crimping tool and psu sleeving tool set.


----------



## andrewmchugh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mugen87;13860489*
> Can anyone recommend a cheap crimping tool and psu sleeving tool set.


I have the phobya 4 piece set, removes all the pins fine, not sure on a crimping tool on the cheap, heres my results


----------



## cravinmild

Hi new here and alrighty spamposting pics lol.
Sleeving my H70 coolant lines

This was not a big project but it was time comsuming. I didnt want to remove the coolant lines because....well i dont know how, didnt think the risk was worth it in the end. I instead decided to cut the sleeving up the lengh and stitch it back together.....

Here is my vanilla lines.

IMG_0073 by cravinmild, on Flickr

besides the few wires in the hd bay ive decided are hidden enough to leave most everything else has been sleeved. Very ugly lines on the Corsair Hxx series wc.

Here is a shot of the stitched lines. I started with painting dental floss, moved to blue thread (no black-tried to paint over with a black jiffy marker..didnt work so well), i finnished the last side with white thread i found and made it black with a marker.

_IGP9089 by cravinmild, on Flickr

_IGP9069 by cravinmild, on Flickr

and the finnished product

_IGP9099 by cravinmild, on Flickr

_IGP9095 by cravinmild, on Flickr
Much nicer i think, So thats my sleeving story. Short and sweet lol


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild;13873555*
> IMG_0073 by cravinmild, on Flickr
> 
> Here is a shot of the stitched lines. I started with painting dental floss, moved to blue thread (no black-tried to paint over with a black jiffy marker..didnt work so well), i finnished the last side with white thread i found and made it black with a marker.
> 
> 
> Much nicer i think, So thats my sleeving story. Short and sweet lol


Dude, the original H70 tubing looks better in its original form compared to the one you modded, imo.


----------



## Sircles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rheicel;13878699*
> Dude, the original H70 tubing looks better in its original form compared to the one you modded, imo.


they look better from the other angle when the stiching is hidden


----------



## TC_Fenua

Hi all
After going through the whole thread, I got more and more desperate at how my cables and wirings look...







So yesterday I finally pulled the trigger and ordered those :


I think I'll be busy next week









Wish me luck !


----------



## alex9227

Hey guys i wanna sleeve my computer and change the 24pin atx, 8pin atx, and the 2 6pin vga connectors to UV blue. i have found one place to buy them but the shipping isnt worth it. Do any of you know where i can buy UV Blue connectors in canada?
Here is an example
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/ModSmart-8-Pin-Female-ATX-Power-Connector---UV-Blue-pid-11471.html


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alex9227;13889838*
> Hey guys i wanna sleeve my computer and change the 24pin atx, 8pin atx, and the 2 6pin vga connectors to UV blue. i have found one place to buy them but the shipping isnt worth it. Do any of you know where i can buy UV Blue connectors in canada?
> Here is an example
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/ModSmart-8-Pin-Female-ATX-Power-Connector---UV-Blue-pid-11471.html


Makers of sleeved wiring extentions...plus other nice things.
http://www.nzxt.com/new/buy.php?wtb_country=North+America

My fav for retail
http://ncix.com/products/?sku=52314&vpn=CB%2D24P&manufacture=NZXT

Theres a utube vid..watch it, good stuff.


----------



## Infrabasse

Those aren't UV blue









Try here and maybe here Alex








Couldn't find sata power.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alex9227;13889838*
> Hey guys i wanna sleeve my computer and change the 24pin atx, 8pin atx, and the 2 6pin vga connectors to UV blue. i have found one place to buy them but the shipping isnt worth it. Do any of you know where i can buy UV Blue connectors in canada?
> Here is an example
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/ModSmart-8-Pin-Female-ATX-Power-Connector---UV-Blue-pid-11471.html


If you're in the US
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60_923_164&products_id=2337

They have more connectors (PCIe, ATX, Molex, etc) in UV blue from the same brand (Conduxt) as well.


----------



## mav2000

Heres one from me:


----------



## Ragsters

Does anyone know where I can get molex brand connectors to make extensions? Right now all I need is 6pin VGA(male and female) and 24pin (back connectors).


----------



## PapaSmurf

Mouser. They have the pins and the housings. For the 24 pin you need Molex 44476-1111 terminals (pins) and Molex 39-01-2240 female socket for the motherboard side.

For the PSU side you would need Molex 39-01-2241 male socket and Molex 44478-1112 pins.

For the VGA you need Molex 45559-0002 female socket and the same Molex 44476-1111 pins as above. This would be for the part that plugs into the graphics card. You would use the same Molex 44478-1112 pins as the 24pin for the side that plugs into the PSU, but the only part number I can find is for the male socket is the one that solders directly onto the circuit board so I can't help you with that.

Newark also sells them, but I'm never bought from them in the past so I don't know about their customer service.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13934454*
> Mouser. They have the pins and the housings. For the 24 pin you need Molex 44476-1111 terminals (pins) and Molex 39-01-2240 female socket for the motherboard side.
> 
> For the PSU side you would need Molex 39-01-2241 male socket and Molex 44478-1112 pins.
> 
> For the VGA you need Molex 45559-0002 female socket and the same Molex 44476-1111 pins as above. This would be for the part that plugs into the graphics card. You would use the same Molex 44478-1112 pins as the 24pin for the side that plugs into the PSU, but the only part number I can find is for the male socket is the one that solders directly onto the circuit board so I can't help you with that.
> 
> Newark also sells them, but I'm never bought from them in the past so I don't know about their customer service.


Wow! Thanks a lot! +rep


----------



## PapaSmurf

No problem. I've had to order a few replacement parts over the years. I used to be into Ham and CB Radios when I was younger and that's where I ordered a lot of my parts.


----------



## Xien16

I also ordered many connectors from mouser in the past








There is a shop with nearly the same products in Germany but mouser is cheaper - even with the high extra costs...
But the pins are much cheaper on MDPC-X.com


----------



## Aximous

Could you post a link to that shop in Germany, would be cool for us European guys


----------



## Martin S




----------



## Imrac

Good stuff Martin! awesome photography as well!


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Looks like that copper colour would go nicely with copper blocks.


----------



## nitrousoxide10

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Martin S*





















Sick sleeving job!







I can't wait to sleeve my system!


----------



## MijnWraak

Glad to see the thread is still alive and kicking! Haven't been around recently because my computer has actually been working fine for once


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Martin S*





















Martin what is your trick to getting your heatshrink to be all about the same length when done ...


----------



## TC_Fenua

Patience and experience I guess .


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69;13953609*
> Martin what is your trick to getting your heatshrink to be all about the same length when done ...


http://www.overclock.net/10175791-post1474.html


----------



## Infrabasse

Equal length pieces of heatshrink is only part of the story. You also need to always place it on the same place on the pin.


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot;13953923*
> http://www.overclock.net/10175791-post1474.html


I have done that already ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;13953991*
> Equal length pieces of heatshrink is only part of the story. You also need to always place it on the same place on the pin.


Ya I try to but sometimes it just does not work out haha









Martins seems about perfect every time ...


----------



## Tator Tot

For getting the pieces on the pins even every time, that'll just end up being more a matter of practice and patience.


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69;13954833*
> Martins seems about perfect every time ...


I really doubt he gets it perfect everytime. He's simply not afraid to start over when things go wrong.


----------



## PapaSmurf

And I'm betting he went through a LOT of shrink during the process, especially early on.


----------



## mortimersnerd

FTW PC has heatshrink in stock now, $0.69/ft for high quality 3/16" 3:1. We will also offer it in bags of 50 pieces cut 15mm in length. The heatshrink works perfectly with our 1/8" sleeving and grabs paracord better than we have seen with any other heatsrink.

http://www.overclock.net/ftw-pc/1048227-ftw-pc-heatshrink-now-stock.html


----------



## Martin S

Thanks all!

Copenhagen: I'll quote Nils for this one







"Patience + precision = perfection". There really is no special trick to it, but consistency is key.


----------



## cr33ds

Anyone tried this paracord sleeving yet? whats the recomendations? Its really cheap at $16 shipped for 100ft.

http://ftwpc.com/black-paracord.html


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cr33ds*


Anyone tried this paracord sleeving yet? whats the recomendations? Its really cheap at $16 shipped for 100ft.

http://ftwpc.com/black-paracord.html


It's excellent and looks great, but it's thicker than normal sleeving (thus harder to manage when you unisleeve.)

It's a good option if you're looking for a cheap route to use for going colors on a sleeving job.


----------



## Dualbrain

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Martin S*


Copenhagen: I'll quote Nils for this one







"Patience + precision = perfection".


Thank you Martin








Good to see you just showing on a constant level how things have to be, and not just talk about "perfection" and "this is the best", like the sales people do who penetrate the forums more and more.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Martin S*


----------



## Xien16




----------



## Copenhagen69

that is a sweet combo there xien!


----------



## Copenhagen69




----------



## Mugen87

Copenhagen is that paracord?


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mugen87;13964335*
> Copenhagen is that paracord?


yes 450 paracord


----------



## Mugen87

Now I see the difference in paracord and mnpc.


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mugen87;13964408*
> Now I see the difference in paracord and mnpc.


ya paracord is better looking


----------



## Xien16

Eeehm...








It's ok if you think so


----------



## TC_Fenua

imho paracord looks like shoes laces








Nice pics Xien16 and Martin S!


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xien16;13965459*
> Eeehm...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's ok if you think so


would you rather jump out of a plane with my paracord holding you to your parachute or MDPC?

Thought so


----------



## Xien16

That's it - paracord is made for parachutes and MDPC-X sleeve is made to sleeve PC cables








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TC_Fenua;13966896*
> Nice pics Xien16 and Martin S!


Thanks a lot








Love working with MDPC-X sleeves...


----------



## Lutro0

Nice pics Xien


----------



## TC_Fenua

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69;13967074*
> would you rather jump out of a plane with my paracord holding you to your parachute or MDPC?
> 
> Thought so


At least you got a great sense of humor







That made me laugh, thanks for that !


----------



## SmasherBasher

I've tried it. Here is a pic of it installed on a 24 pin connector.


----------



## Shane1244

Paracord is so ugly. The whole point of sleeving is to promote that minimalistic look. Paracord is so uneven and floppy, there's no rigidity to it, so you cant shape them all to have the same curves.


----------



## Mugen87

I wouldnt mind the look of paracord, Im a huge fan of paracord in general. Yes it does remind me of shoelaces and hoodies. mdpc looks like tiny wicker, I can see how it would be more rigid. Still has to wait ether way.

I have seen paracord pics that look just as good as your mdpc pics. Its just 2 really different looks. Xien those are some boss pics regardless.


----------



## leighteam

Not sure if I'm sleeving correctly. I haven't used my heatgun on the heatshrink yet. Just want to confirm that everything is the best as it can be. Here are a few images:










Thanks Barry! (Furryletters on eBay, AKA Techflex cleancut)










PSU Connector










PCI-E Connector










Wire as a whole

Just looking for suggestions before I continue further! Thanks...


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leighteam;13985648*
> Not sure if I'm sleeving correctly. I haven't used my heatgun on the heatshrink yet. Just want to confirm that everything is the best as it can be. Here are a few images:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Barry! (Furryletters on eBay, AKA Techflex cleancut)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PSU Connector
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PCI-E Connector
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wire as a whole
> 
> Just looking for suggestions before I continue further! Thanks...


I think you need to heat them up before you insert the pin back. This is how I do it and have never tried any other procedure before.


----------



## Xien16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mugen87;13973379*
> ...Xien those are some boss pics regardless.


Thanks


----------



## leighteam

heating them up before you put them back in seems to be the case... thanks
+rep


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13934454*
> Mouser. They have the pins and the housings. For the 24 pin you need Molex 44476-1111 terminals (pins) and Molex 39-01-2240 female socket for the motherboard side.
> 
> For the PSU side you would need Molex 39-01-2241 male socket and Molex 44478-1112 pins.
> 
> For the VGA you need Molex 45559-0002 female socket and the same Molex 44476-1111 pins as above. This would be for the part that plugs into the graphics card. You would use the same Molex 44478-1112 pins as the 24pin for the side that plugs into the PSU, but the only part number I can find is for the male socket is the one that solders directly onto the circuit board so I can't help you with that.
> 
> Newark also sells them, but I'm never bought from them in the past so I don't know about their customer service.


I'm really having a hard time figuring out what is what on this site. I know you gave me links but for example you gave me this link:
http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=%2FFAXCdFYqP5%252b9357MWKI9g%3D%3D
for the vga connector but this looks like it could be it too:
http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=mrPiglD9aYJrq7XWj%2fGMFg%3d%3d

I guess I was trying to figure out where the back of the 6pin vga were before I made an order when I got more confused. Again I want the back of 24pin connector and the front and back of the 6pin vga. I need 3 different catalog numbers.


----------



## Xien16

The second one is pitch 3mm








You need the first one with 4.2mm...

But do you really want to get the white ones???

For 24-pin - take this one or what do you mean by "back"


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xien16;13990517*
> The second one is pitch 3mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You need the first one with 4.2mm...
> 
> But do you really want to get the white ones???
> 
> For 24-pin - take this one or what do you mean by "back"


I'm so glad you said something. No I don't want the white ones. I want black. I already have the 24pin that goes to the motherboard. I need the one that goes to the power supply cable.


----------



## Xien16

So I guess you don't have a 100% modular psu and need the plug with the male pins?

edit:

Black 6-pin for female pins

Black 6-pin for male pins without panel mount

Black 6-pin for male pins with panel mount

But I can't promise these fit into a VGA card...
And there is no black 24-pin for the male pins









the white one


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xien16*


So I guess you don't have a 100% modular psu and need the plug with the male pins?

edit:

Black 6-pin for female pins

Black 6-pin for male pins without panel mount

Black 6-pin for male pins with panel mount

But I can't promise these fit into a VGA card...
And there is no black 24-pin for the male pins









the white one


Thanks for that but what does it mean with or without panel mount?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


Thanks for that but what does it mean with or without panel mount?


Panel mounts means the little clasps on the sides to hold it into place where you want to mount it.










Also there is 2 diff kinds of 6pin vga connectors out there, make sure you get the right one bud. Just look at the card to make sure its the right pin set.


----------



## Xien16

Just look at the minimum number of pieces and you know what you will buy


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xien16*


Just look at the minimum number of pieces and you know what you will buy
























IT'S OVER 9000! for an order of the mounts


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;13991613*
> Panel mounts means the little clasps on the sides to hold it into place where you want to mount it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also there is 2 diff kinds of 6pin vga connectors out there, make sure you get the right one bud. Just look at the card to make sure its the right pin set.


Thanks lutro!


----------



## Xien16

Version 2 is the one you need for VGA cards









Silverstone (and maybe others) uses version 1 on their modular PSUs for SATA power...

I think I have to order some to see what version they sell.
But I guess they only sell version 1 because version 2 is not "in" the standard mini fit layout


----------



## Smo

Some of these setups look simply amazing - I've just bought an RV02-EW (white) with an NZXT Hale90 850W PSU (also white) and am considering what sleeving colour choices to go with.

I'm thinking black connectors, black and white sleeve with white 15mm heatsink. So like two black sleeved cables, then one white, then another two black etc.

What do you think? I could maybe throw in some titanium grey too? I'll be using MDPC-X by the way, from what I've seen, there should be no other


----------



## Infrabasse

Will you be using your current motherboard and video card?
A motherboard dominated by blue and a very red video card


----------



## Smo

I'll be using an EVGA GTX 590 classified - the motherboard will remain the same, yeah.


----------



## Infrabasse

Maybe black and aquamarine as posted by Xien16 a few posts above?
I've done a white / aquamarine / B-Magic combo recently.


----------



## Smo

I love the spacing with the colours - exactly what I was thinking. I think the blue is a little bright for my tastes though, they do a more 'washed-out' version IIRC.


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smo;13998600*
> I love the spacing with the colours - exactly what I was thinking. I think the blue is a little bright for my tastes though, they do a more 'washed-out' version IIRC.


The Aquamarine is the palest blue on offer. It almost has hints of turquoise. B-magic is a little more neutral and goes perfectly with the asus h/p67 colors.


----------



## Smo

Just had a look at the B-Magic. Must admit it's a lovely colour;










I'm very much on the fence with it though - I'm a lover of subtle beauty. I'll have to go through the whole thread, see if there's anything similar in a white case to compare with.


----------



## Infrabasse

You could try full white sleeving with just a touch of b-magic, similarly spaced to the black/aquamarine posted by xien earlier.
I'm sure it'd work great in that white case of yours.

Be prepared to replace all of your PSU wires with white ones though. That's the best way to get the best white possible.


----------



## Smo

Yeah I'm going to do the whole lot - I've never tried it before but I have tons of other cables that I can practice on.

My only real worry is voiding the warranty on my PSU (which I really don't want to do) so I think I might do something similar to Peter Cantano's Valkyrie project;










Looks like he's put some jumbo heatshrink over the whole lot.

I would do it a bit tidier than that though!


----------



## Analog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Just took these today























































Where do you get those green sleeves?


----------



## mastical

^ ^ ^ ^

Im sure its MDPC-X


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Analog*


Where do you get those green sleeves?


See the first post. (Hint: MDPC-X) Also please don't quote more than one image.


----------



## Analog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


See the first post. (Hint: MDPC-X) Also please don't quote more than one image.


Pics on first post don't show up for me for some reason.
And quoting is bassicly the same as posting, so if I can't quote them, you should also forbid posting them, though I see where you're coming from.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Analog*


Pics on first post don't show up for me for some reason.
And quoting is bassicly the same as posting, so if I can't quote them, you should also forbid posting them, though I see where you're coming from.


Quoting multiple images is discouraged as one image should be more than enough to get across your point. Often the images that people quote are from the same page that their post appears on so it just chews through more bandwidth. But yes, MDPC-X.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Analog*


Pics on first post don't show up for me for some reason.
And quoting is bassicly the same as posting, so if I can't quote them, you should also forbid posting them, though I see where you're coming from.


They do for me.

Remember, not everyone has a fast internet connection or un-limited bandwidth. Quoting multiple images, especially when they end up on the same page (and not everyone has their account configured to show the same number of posts per page) can make it quite a burden on some people as they have to download the images more than once. Basically what it boils down to is courtesy. While one person quoting multiple pics might not be too bad, if everyone does it it gets out of hand so the accepted guideline is for everyone to quote only ONE image. Anyone who is that inconsiderate to not go along with that really has no business on ANY computer forum and should stick with social networking sites like MyBook, FaceSpace, and other places as they contribute nothing useful to the forum. You don't have to agree with it, but you really need to abide by it.


----------



## rheicel

I will be busy this weekend. My friend from US sent me some sleeves. Whoooah!


----------



## IntelLover

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rheicel*


I will be busy this weekend. My friend from US sent me some sleeves. Whoooah!










What sleeve is that?


----------



## rheicel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IntelLover*


What sleeve is that?


i dont know. red, blue, yellow and white looks ok but not the carbon black.


----------



## scaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smo*


Yeah I'm going to do the whole lot - I've never tried it before but I have tons of other cables that I can practice on.

My only real worry is voiding the warranty on my PSU (which I really don't want to do) so I think I might do something similar to Peter Cantano's Valkyrie project;

Looks like he's put some jumbo heatshrink over the whole lot.

I would do it a bit tidier than that though!


That or you can get extentions. Some compnaies even make them pre individually sleeved. you can even pay a company to do it for you. I believe performace PCs and FTW PCs will do it for you.


----------



## Smo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scaz;14035436*
> That or you can get extentions. Some compnaies even make them pre individually sleeved. you can even pay a company to do it for you. I believe performace PCs and FTW PCs will do it for you.


Thanks, the sleeved extensions were definitely a consideration, but you will still be able to see the cables coming out the PSU which won't match. That'll really annoy me!

Bearing in mind I'm based in the UK I don't think it's economic to send my PSU to the states for a sleeving job (unless there is anyone based in the UK that can do a reasonable job).


----------



## Dualbrain

Smo, if you want a masterpiece, contact Martin (USA though): www.psychosleeve.com
He's even recommended and "used" by the guys and gals who are considered fantastic sleevers&modders themselves. Good luck on your journey Smo


----------



## McMarcus22

Here's my little creation using techflex


----------



## superhead91

looking smexy mcmarcus!


----------



## IntelLover

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McMarcus22*


Here's my little creation using techflex










What sleeve is that? It doesnt look like standard PET sleeving.

In addition to that, I was wondering if someone could help me find the right parts on Mouser.

I would like to make custom cables for my X750 so it would fit better in my small Lian Li A05 and to sleeve them.

I'm not sure what type of wire to use, what the pins for both sides should be, and the pin housings.

If anyone could help me, it would be greatly appreciated.

Here is a good picture of the PSU side of things:
http://www.hardocp.com/images/articl...vsMt_3_1_l.jpg


----------



## McMarcus22

The packaging said flexo pet. Parts express sells it in 25ft packages. It seems to be the same as the flexo pet I bought from frozencpu.


----------



## rheicel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IntelLover*


What sleeve is that?


I know now, My friend call it TechFlex.


----------



## SmasherBasher

Texhflex = FlexoPET = PET. It's all made by Federal Mogul and marketed by everyone. It's the exact same stuff.


----------



## fshizl

Intel lover ive posted this many times on the x650 and x750 style cables...


----------



## IntelLover

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fshizl*


Intel lover ive posted this many times on the x650 and x750 style cables...











But do you know the part numbers for the pin housings? What guage wire is supposed to be used?


----------



## Mikrouwel

Hey Guys,

I have my sleeve and my heatshrink but I am wondering how to sleeve cables like these?










I have a non modular PSU


----------



## Smo

Just do them individually, so 3 sleeved wires into each plug.


----------



## SmasherBasher

Those are fun.

I cut the connectors off, sleeve, then recrimp.


----------



## rheicel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*


Those are fun.

I cut the connectors off, sleeve, then recrimp.


This!


----------



## subnet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rheicel;14065702*
> This!


Cut off the connectors and spliced the cables together to an appropriate length.This can then sleeved (section by section) and used with T-style connectors.


----------



## Darkstar757

Can someone recommend me who does great sleeving work. I have a Cosair 1200 that needs sleeving.

Thanks


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstar757;14069470*
> Can someone recommend me who does great sleeving work. I have a Cosair 1200 that needs sleeving.
> 
> Thanks


The best out there
http://psychosleeve.com/


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infrabasse*


The best out there
http://psychosleeve.com/


This!!!


----------



## TC_Fenua

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infrabasse*


The best out there
http://psychosleeve.com/


If you want a fantastic job, it's the way to go


----------



## kiwiasian

So I got kinda ticked off at the ridiculous sleeving job Antec does on their PSUs. My sound card cable sticks out in my case and I bought a pre-sleeved 4 pin floppy to molex adapter, but I accidentally bought a male 4 pin instead of a female 4 pin...

So I just took off the thing and did it myself.


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

@Kiwiasian, I did the same exact thing to my DX, lol.

Also, I Love MDPC-X a lot, sleeved my X850 with black. Was my first time but I didn't do too bad. I still need to master the lengths that show off the heatshrink when you plug in the connectors. I wish I would have added a touch of red though to match my theme, but I really don't feel like resleeving as it took me quite a while lol. But luckily I stumbled upon {uZa}DOA and his paracord sleeved extensions he sells. I bought two sets off of him because of the amazing job he did. I didn't think much of paracord and thought it was ~meh. But the job he did was absolutely perfect. If done right, paracord can look just as nice as MDPC-X.

Here is the two sets I bought from him:


















Note: I'm not trying to advertise for anyone, but if someone is interested in the paracord extensions, contact *{uZa}DOA* and not me







.


----------



## superhead91

@H4rd5tyl3
How much did those extensions cost?


----------



## rheicel

my paracord version, LOL








]


----------



## MijnWraak

Funky


----------



## Mugen87

Nice idea with the patterned paracord. That will look sick.


----------



## Infrabasse

Please tell me this is going to hook up to a Sabertooth motherboard !
That would be a nice combo


----------



## rheicel

I will be rebuilding my SFF, with this PSU. You will probably notice that I have shortened the wires to avoid clutter inside the sugo SG04-H case. I am now modding the case too. Hopefully I can put up a build logs as well. This is going to be green AMD/NVDIA theme. Not with the most poweful parts but it will be an office transportable machine.


----------



## Buska103

How do you take out MALE ATX cables out of their connectors?

I got the female ATX cables out easy using staples =)


----------



## mortimersnerd

The FTW Sleeve is now in stock: http://www.overclock.net/ftw-pc/1030...ink-stock.html


----------



## Infrabasse

The red looks red ?
How can this be


----------



## SmasherBasher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infrabasse*


The red looks red ?
How can this be










You have no idea what we went through in the design stage to get it red and not pink. We made it clear from the beginning that we'd rather it not be made than be pink. This is the culmination of 4 months of R&D, sample after sample being sent back and forth, countless emails to various people, input from users, it's really a lot of work.


----------



## Nova.

Damn that looks nice, too bad I can't be asked to sleeve my PSU. I need some sleeved extensions :|


----------



## Buska103

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103;14140534*
> How do you take out MALE ATX cables out of their connectors?
> 
> I got the female ATX cables out easy using staples =)


Bump that. I have no idea how to get these male cables out EUGHGH!


----------



## Lutro0

It works the same way as you remove the female pin. Use your staples or pin remover just like for the female, push the wire up then push the "wings" of the pin down with your tool/staple and then pull on the cable gently to remove the wire.

The pin looks just like the female versions, with the clips at the sides.










If you look on this pic, I put arrows to where the tool should be going to push down the "wings"










Here is a photo for an example.










Credit goes to this guide for the pic: LINK

Hope all that helps!


----------



## Dualbrain

Always great to see you helping people so well Lutr0o, couldn't be explained better


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dualbrain;14147395*
> Always great to see you helping people so well Lutr0o, couldn't be explained better


Thanks bud!


----------



## Dualbrain

oh wow, you even added a technical drawing now. I am heavily impressed!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dualbrain;14147493*
> oh wow, you even added a technical drawing now. I am heavily impressed!


Haha! Just trying to make it as clear as possible.


----------



## Dualbrain

You deserve a picture


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dualbrain;14148778*
> You deserve a picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (img snip)


Nice! That one is def going in my mod room.


----------



## Tomiger

I ended up using small sewing needles to remove the male ATX cables; staples weren't long/strong enough.

A nice tool would help hah.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger;14149105*
> I ended up using small sewing needles to remove the male ATX cables; staples weren't long/strong enough.
> 
> A nice tool would help hah.


Yea, the original molex tool is by far the easiest way.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;14149258*
> Yea, the original molex tool is by far the easiest way.


omg PINK, im buying this for my wifes build right now


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14149298*
> omg PINK, im buying this for my wifes build right now


LOL, thats exactly what im using that sleeving for. The Kallos Mod is for my wife, although it is on hold at the moment for the Aspros Mod to get finished. The color is more of a purple than a pink, but under the right lighting it looks as pink as it gets.


----------



## MooCwzRck

Alright, finally buying all the parts I need for my sleeving project...Anyone mind looking over my parts list and making any recommendations or changes before I pull the trigger?










This is for my sig build below.

I plan to keep all the fans connected directly to the motherboard, and sleeved, so those are short cables and fewer than 10 connectors for them. I also plan to sleeve my Zalman cooler's short cable. I want to sleeve the three SATA cables I have, along with a fourth I may use if I buy another 120gb SSD, and plan to individually sleeve extension cables for my 8 pin power connector, 24 pin ATX connector, and 4 6pin PCI-E connectors. I will only have a single large 4 pin molex extension cable.

I am running my SATA power cables up along the 5.25" bays, basically like this:










I either have, or am going to get all the extension cables for those parts.

The color scheme will be alternating black and green to fit my case theme.

Thats about all I am going to need to do. My list look alright?


----------



## SmasherBasher

We have a tiny bit of sleeving here.


----------



## shnur

I'm curious as to how I can find a manual for my PSU, XFX doesn't host them on their site








I'm waiting for my XFX Pro XXX edition 750W (the Silver/semi-modular one) and wanted to order sleeving while I wait. Anybody has an idea?


----------



## PapaSmurf

What information from the manual do you need?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*


I'm curious as to how I can find a manual for my PSU, XFX doesn't host them on their site








I'm waiting for my XFX Pro XXX edition 750W (the Silver/semi-modular one) and wanted to order sleeving while I wait. Anybody has an idea?


I assume you want the cable lengths right?

I looked for a xxx 750w pro model, but they look like seperate series, like xxx is a series and the pro is another one. So I listed both the model lines below. Imma go on a limb and say that for which ever model it is the cables should be about the same.

Maybe someone else that is more familiar with them could pitch in?

This is for the xxx 650 750w models:

Quote:



ATX connector (540mm) 20+4 pin 
4+4 pin EPS12V/ATX12V connector (540mm) 1 
8 pin EPS12V (540mm) 1 
6+2 pin PCIe (580mm) 1 
6 pin PCIe (580mm) 1 
Modular Cables 
SATA (445mm+150mm+150mm) 3 
SATA (550mm+150mm+150mm) 3 
5.25" Drive (550mm+150mm+150mm) 6 
3.5" Drive (+150mm) 2 
6+2 pin PCIe (560mm) 2 
Unit Dimensions(L x W x H) 
170mm x 150mm x 86mm


Rest can be found: HERE

This is for the 650 and 750w pro models:

Quote:



Type of connector: XFX XPS-
650W-SEW 
ATX connector (580mm) 20+4 pin 
4+4 pin EPS12V/ATX12V (620mm) 1 
6 pin PCIe (580mm) 2 
6+2 pin PCIe (580mm) 2 
5.25" Drive (390mm+150mm+150mm+150mm) 7 
3.5" Drive connectors (+150mm) 1 
SATA (360mm+150mm+150mm+150mm) 8 
Unit Dimensions (L x W x H) 
170mm x 150mm x 86mm


Article can be found: HERE


----------



## AsanteSoul

Quote:



Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*


@Kiwiasian, I did the same exact thing to my DX, lol.

Also, I Love MDPC-X a lot, sleeved my X850 with black. Was my first time but I didn't do too bad. I still need to master the lengths that show off the heatshrink when you plug in the connectors. I wish I would have added a touch of red though to match my theme, but I really don't feel like resleeving as it took me quite a while lol. But luckily I stumbled upon {uZa}DOA and his paracord sleeved extensions he sells. I bought two sets off of him because of the amazing job he did. I didn't think much of paracord and thought it was ~meh. But the job he did was absolutely perfect. If done right, paracord can look just as nice as MDPC-X.

Here is the two sets I bought from him:


















Note: I'm not trying to advertise for anyone, but if someone is interested in the paracord extensions, contact *{uZa}DOA* and not me







.


where did you purchase that, and how much? I'm in Canada, and do not know any local people that do any sleeving...


----------



## shnur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


What information from the manual do you need?


I needed the cable lengths to know how much more sleeving I need

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


I assume you want the cable lengths right?

I looked for a xxx 750w pro model, but they look like seperate series, like xxx is a series and the pro is another one. So I listed both the model lines below. Imma go on a limb and say that for which ever model it is the cables should be about the same.

Maybe someone else that is more familiar with them could pitch in?

This is for the xxx 650 750w models:

Rest can be found: HERE

This is for the 650 and 750w pro models:

Article can be found: HERE


Yes; thanks!

I doubt they'd make cables of different lengths for similar power supplies. But who knows!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AsanteSoul*


where did you purchase that, and how much? I'm in Canada, and do not know any local people that do any sleeving...


I'm "local" and I can do it if you want. PM me.


----------



## Dualbrain




----------



## shnur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dualbrain*












Yup. That's my favourite color








Love the darkness of it.


----------



## eosgreen

cant find clean cut grey or green sleeving in the US for the life of me...


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eosgreen*


cant find clean cut grey or green sleeving in the US for the life of me...


Use this link for information on how to call Barry for the gray clean cut: Link _Its the cheapest you will find it, and he is an awesome guy to chat with._

And I know you want in the US, but you should give MDPC a look, yes you pay for the shipping, but the product you get is top notch. And the quality of the heatshrink is the best ive ever used hands down.

-Link for combat green- _This has a nice gray against green photo._
-Link to reg green-


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eosgreen*


cant find clean cut grey or green sleeving in the US for the life of me...


Here's _Clean Cut_ Gray:

http://www.wirecare.com/products.asp?prodline=CCP

CC only comes in two colors, black and gray.


----------



## Buska103

What's the difference between Paracord 450 and 550?


----------



## SmasherBasher

The only difference is the number of cords inside the colored sheath.


----------



## Infrabasse

So I'm guessing that's making it thicker ?


----------



## SmasherBasher

Not really, because once you pull the cords out, it's the same size.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;14168370*
> So I'm guessing that's making it thicker ?


Yes, and somewhat more stiff.

Though the difference is minimal.


----------



## Buska103

Great!








Same external size? Does this mean I can mix Paracord 550 and FTW-PC Paracord 450 and they will be the same size and thickness?

Also, just to make sure, it's really hard to take out male ATX pins without a pin remover tool?
Right as I got excited that I could easily take out female pins with staples and save money by not getting a pin remover...


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Buska103*


Great!








Same external size? Does this mean I can mix Paracord 550 and FTW-PC Paracord 450 and they will be the same size and thickness?

Also, just to make sure, it's really hard to take out male ATX pins without a pin remover tool? 
Right as I got excited that I could easily take out female pins with staples and save money by not getting a pin remover...











Does it make is uber easier, yes.

But if you get a very small flathead screwdriver and some paitence, you cant get the prongs down easily enough.

Another thing that has always served me well is a girls bobby-pin, the one girls use to put there hair up.

If you take one of those, snip off the plastic coated peice at the end, and then bend it straight; the size will be about the right size to remove one side of the male or female pins at a time. (some small fileing might be needed)

Ive been meaning to write a how-to on it for a while now.


----------



## shnur

Alright so I've calculated how much I need to sleeve my whole PSU; does 65340mm of sleeving makes sense for a 750W?

XFX 750W XXX Edition Semi-Modular (Silver); part number: P1-750B-NLG9


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*


Alright so I've calculated how much I need to sleeve my whole PSU; does 65340mm of sleeving makes sense for a 750W?

XFX 750W XXX Edition Semi-Modular (Silver); part number: P1-750B-NLG9


Anything around 200 to 250 ft sounds within the norm.








More is always better then not enough.


----------



## shnur

That is a lot of sleeving... I only did my 400W PSU, I never though I'd sleeve a full 65M of cables









Anyhow. CHALLENGE ACCEPTED!

If I want to mix in Color-x, Combat green & black, what kind of proportions should I be looking for? I saw some people alternate, others do by packs (pcie all green, atx all black)
What do you guys think?


----------



## eosgreen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech;14162969*
> Here's _Clean Cut_ Gray:
> 
> http://www.wirecare.com/products.asp?prodline=CCP
> 
> CC only comes in two colors, black and gray.


wdf is "splice free" lol isnt that the POINT of clean cut

also does anyone know how well clean cut expands?


----------



## SmasherBasher

The XFX 750W Black Edition needs 157 feet not including heatshrink. We have made a power supply database so we know how much to quote when people inquire for sleeving work.


----------



## shnur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;14178767*
> The XFX 750W Black Edition needs 157 feet not including heatshrink. We have made a power supply database so we know how much to quote when people inquire for sleeving work.


Oh! Sweet








& I spent an hour yesterday trying to figure out how many cables/what length they are, then adding everything up, multiplying. bla bla bla


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;14178767*
> The XFX 750W Black Edition needs 157 feet not including heatshrink. We have made a power supply database so we know how much to quote when people inquire for sleeving work.


It really depends on what cables he will be using, and if he wants to add a cable at a later date, that is cutting it close, IMO. That powersupply has loads of extra cables and cant be given a perfect ammount of sleeving due to many factors. So the best option is to shoot for extra.

A good rule of thumb is to measure, or look up the specs, plan out what cables you will be using to find the proper length and then add about 25-50ft (this is purely opinion, but it has always served me well and ive never had to waste money getting more shipped.), this way you can make sure its _perfect_ and you dont end up having to leave your job looking dumpy because you ran out of sleeve, you should never have to settle for less if it can be avoided by better planning. Or if you wanted to sleeve something else (front panel and so on) it wont be an issue. It is always better to have more than not enough.


----------



## shnur

Yeah I think I'll need to re-evaluate considering the crazy amount of cables included with this one.

EDIT: Re-calculated everything; I'll be using 48.08 instead of 65m. Saves up some cost


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur;14179538*
> Yeah I think I'll need to re-evaluate considering the crazy amount of cables included with this one.
> 
> EDIT: Re-calculated everything; I'll be using 48.08 instead of 65m. Saves up some cost


Awesome, glad to see you got it all worked out.


----------



## kzone75

Hey.







Ordered the MDPC sleeve kit from Nils on June 21st. Still haven't received the package.







How long does it usually take? According to the confirmation e-mail, it should be shipped..


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kzone75*


Hey.







Ordered the MDPC sleeve kit from Nils on June 21st. Still haven't received the package.







How long does it usually take? According to the confirmation e-mail, it should be shipped..


You should have gotten an email from Nils, about the estimated shipping time, but it took 2 weeks or so *max*. (for me and im in the middle of the usa) If you want more info on your package go ahead and email him back. =)


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


You should have gotten an email from Nils, about the estimated shipping time, but it took 2 weeks or so *max*. (for me and im in the middle of the usa) If you want more info on your package go ahead and email him back. =)


Thank you kindly. Will email him right away. Didn't find any estimated shipping time. I live in Finland so it shouldn't take this long. But then again, I have no trust in the postal services here. Took them 2 weeks to ship from 60 miles away to my front door.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;14180665*
> Thank you kindly. Will email him right away. Didn't find any estimated shipping time. I live in Finland so it shouldn't take this long. But then again, I have no trust in the postal services here. Took them 2 weeks to ship from 60 miles away to my front door.


No problem, I hope you get it worked out. Nils is always jiffy on the spot with shipping.


----------



## kzone75

Just got the email back from Nils.







Awesome guy!

Well, as I suspected.. Our folks at the post offices around here suck. The package was in Finland within two days after the receipt of payment. It's been in this country since the 22nd of June.







I'll be hunting it down in a couple of hours.

I am sorry if it sounded like I am blaming Nils for this. I really wasn't. Not his fault at all. Will be ordering from him again soon.


----------



## Buska103

How much (paracord) sleeve should I buy for a single sleeved Corsair HX750 with a ton of accessories?

I'm thinking... around 300 feet? Lol? Is it too overkill?


----------



## shnur

I think ~250-300 sounds about right, my 750W ended up on 220ft if you sleeve EVERYTHING, but do you really need to ?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Would someone be so kind as to share Barry's e-mail address with me? The thread search function doesn't seem to be working for me atm


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Would someone be so kind as to share Barry's e-mail address with me? The thread search function doesn't seem to be working for me atm


[email protected]


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id*


[email protected]


Thanks very much for that


----------



## shnur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Thanks very much for that










Can't wait to see more of your work


----------



## Xien16




----------



## shnur

That is... pretty...


----------



## spiderm0nkey

That's the sandblasted drive right Xien?


----------



## RushMore1205

so i got some FTW PC sleeve today, and i have to say it looks fnatastic, very pleased that someone in the states can make sleeve same as MDPC, i have to say i was just bout to pull the plug on this but then saw that MDPC sleeve fell in price like crazy, so now im so torn

i dont see any differnce bettween the two sleeves, they are both guarages

here is the comparison of the MDPC RED AND FTWPC RED

the buttom is ftwpc









top is ftwpc










buttom MDPC everything else is FTWPC










all FTWPC


----------



## Forsaken_id

^^Thank you for that. Glad to see MDPC-like quality in the states with no godawful euro conversion.


----------



## superhead91

Wow... Looks like I will be able to afford sleeving... FTWPC ftw!


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


Wow... Looks like I will be able to afford sleeving... FTWPC ftw!


go to MDPC and check there prices, its rediculous, they dropped the 19% tax, they dropped shipping price

its crazy, i kind of feel bad for FTWPC cause if MDPC didnt do that then FTW would of killled mDPC in a month or so once the word got out


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


go to MDPC and check there prices, its rediculous, they dropped the 19% tax, they dropped shipping price

its crazy, i kind of feel bad for FTWPC cause if MDPC didnt do that then FTW would of killled mDPC in a month or so once the word got out


I'll probably still go with FTW since it's in the US and I'd like to support them. About how much sleeve do you need for a normal 800W PSU? 150ft?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


I'll probably still go with FTW since it's in the US and I'd like to support them. About how much sleeve do you need for a normal 800W PSU? 150ft?


Depends on the unit.

Look at the Manfaq's website and user manual's to calculate the total length of all the wire then add on an extra 15 feet or so.


----------



## mortimersnerd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


I'll probably still go with FTW since it's in the US and I'd like to support them. About how much sleeve do you need for a normal 800W PSU? 150ft?


Send SmasherBasher a PM with the model and he can get you an exact number. We are slowly working to build a PSU database with lengths and number of pieces of heatshrink required to single sleeve PSUs.

But to answer your question, 800W tend to be 150-175ft.


----------



## Winrahr

Here's my first sleeve as an experiment, what do you guys think?


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mortimersnerd;14225925*
> Send SmasherBasher a PM with the model and he can get you an exact number. We are slowly working to build a PSU database with lengths and number of pieces of heatshrink required to single sleeve PSUs.
> 
> But to answer your question, 800W tend to be 150-175ft.


Thanks! I can't afford sleeving atm with college tuition coming up, but I plan to eventually do it, and you guys will definitely be my first choice when the time comes.


----------



## mortimersnerd

Looking good Winrahr.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;14226133*
> Thanks! I can't afford sleeving atm with college tuition coming up, but I plan to eventually do it, and you guys will definitely be my first choice when the time comes.


I know how it is. Buy textbook or sleeve PSU....


----------



## RushMore1205

yes, since oCN has helped all of us, its only right to support a bussness that was created by OCN members,

Smasher is a great guy, just talk to him and he will take care of you


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14225766*
> go to MDPC and check there prices, its rediculous, they dropped the 19% tax, they dropped shipping price
> 
> its crazy, i kind of feel bad for FTWPC cause if MDPC didnt do that then FTW would of killled mDPC in a month or so once the word got out


I disagree







MDPC will always be my sleeve of choice and I know I speak for MANY others when I say that. It's not just sleeve I pay for when buying MDPC, it's the personalised experience and great service







Nils is a great guy and I'll support him as long as I am a pc enthusiast!


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;14226960*
> I disagree
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MDPC will always be my sleeve of choice and I know I speak for MANY others when I say that. It's not just sleeve I pay for when buying MDPC, it's the personalised experience and great service
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nils is a great guy and I'll support him as long as I am a pc enthusiast!


Agreed!







Now I need to go back to my sleeving..


----------



## shnur

Oh oh... conflicts of interest


----------



## SmasherBasher

...back to work...


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;14226960*
> I disagree
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MDPC will always be my sleeve of choice and I know I speak for MANY others when I say that. It's not just sleeve I pay for when buying MDPC, it's the personalised experience and great service
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nils is a great guy and I'll support him as long as I am a pc enthusiast!


I've been working with Smasher & Mort for a few years now; and the two of them are excellent folks.

Trust me when I say this; but no one's gonna spend the time like these two are, taking care of you.

They've spent countless man hours and much time working on their sleeving and getting it just right. They're also very open to community feedback.

I've ordered MDPC in the past and I had some of the first samples from FTW PC; the stuff is excellent. The service is excellent, and there's not really a reason to not consider them.

Between the two though; it comes down to choosing which has the color(s) you need, and the cheapest price for you.


----------



## golfergolfer

Umm quick thing... going to be sleeving entire rig, but just wondering how to sleeve the PSU side of the 24 pin? like i know to remove the pins from the adapter but for the PSU do u have to take it apart? or what??? Please help me on this that is the last thing i have to do. Thanks in advanced


----------



## SmasherBasher

The TR2 is not modular, IIRC. There are a few options for that

1) Take the PSU apart instantly voiding the warranry.

2) Sleeve right up to the edge of the outside of the unit and use a piece of 2" heat shrink to go around all the cables.

3) Spend the extra money and get a 100% modular PSU, such as the Corsair AX 750.


----------



## Winrahr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer;14228393*
> Umm quick thing... going to be sleeving entire rig, but just wondering how to sleeve the PSU side of the 24 pin? like i know to remove the pins from the adapter but for the PSU do u have to take it apart? or what??? Please help me on this that is the last thing i have to do. Thanks in advanced


If it is not modular it would be hardwired onto the PSU and you won't be able to take it out


----------



## alex9227

Power sata cable cut to length and sleeved, this is my first time sleeving ever and the pins wouldnt come out so it was pretty difficult.


----------



## TC_Fenua

No compromise ....


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TC_Fenua;14230542*
> No compromise ....
> 
> -img snip-


Beautiful Pic, with Beautiful Sleeving.


----------



## shnur

Sleeeeeving!!!

I'm waiting on my package since all my other updates have arrived!
If somebody would ship it; I'd be super happy


----------



## Somenamehere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TC_Fenua;14230542*
> No compromise ....


Meh, looks the same as ftw to me. I go with whats cheaper and similar quality, last time I checked MDPC it would have cost me over $120 to sleeve my PSU. I got stuff from furryletters for $55.


----------



## Infrabasse

Let's not stray away too far from the aim of this thread. All I want in this is beautiful pictures and advice on sleeving. I don't want a new fanboy jousting arena.


----------



## SmasherBasher

There does seem to be quite the controversy. All we want to do is offer a high-quality product at a fair price that people will like.

On a lighter note, here's a power supply I did not do, but had done for me back in 2009.




























It was kind of neat. Partially modularized on the 4 pin IDE connectors for flexibility.










I swear. That's not pink. It's Superhero Powerblend by Techflex.










The longest 8 pin EPS cable I've ever seen. 35"





































I didn't have a _clue_ back then.

I still use that 4 wheel cart to this day. It still looks atrocious. Maybe one day I'll get around to fixing it up or getting a proper modding cart.


----------



## Infrabasse

Hey SmasherBasher, are you planning a party for your 10,000th post?


----------



## Xien16

I don't really understany some of you...

There is one who brought sleeve to the PC word, he is the one who invented all the mazing new colors and he also offers you the best accessories you need for sleeving (e.g. heatshrink, crimps, plugs....)

Now some guys see his work and copy it...
They might be really good in copying and put a lot of work into it to get the same result BUT it is still only copying









(don't tell me it is not - I see the comparison of red and red ... this didn't happen by chance...)


----------



## SmasherBasher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infrabasse*


Hey SmasherBasher, are you planning a party for your 10,000th post?










Oh my. Hadn't even noticed.


----------



## rheicel

sleeve supporters, please follow my build here as well. the more people involved, the more ideas will come out. thanks.


----------



## AusPC

Well its been a while...


----------



## covert ash

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xien16*


I don't really understany some of you...

There is one who brought sleeve to the PC word, he is the one who invented all the mazing new colors and he also offers you the best accessories you need for sleeving (e.g. heatshrink, crimps, plugs....)

Now some guys see his work and copy it...
They might be really good in copying and put a lot of work into it to get the same result BUT it is still only copying









(don't tell me it is not - I see the comparison of red and red ... this didn't happen by chance...)


While I understand where you are coming from, let's not romanticize this.









MDPC had a great run being the top dog for a long, long while. Like any other market, there is bound to be stiff competition; and I'm sure Nils is at least content that it took this long for a worthy rival to appear on the scene. However, this should not undermine what MDPC currently still brings to the table - they provide a varied selection of products with quick delivery service, particularly to European countries.

FTWPC is trying to offer a comparable product that will help service and benefit American consumers. I don't know about others, but I really don't want to have my prices vary based on the daily market value of the American dollar versus the Euro, and have to wait longer only to have my large order split up into multiple shipments.

If I made a mistake and ordered too little of something, I now have the comfort in knowing that I don't have to pay out the rear for shipping and can still receive my product in a timely manner. Case in point, I realized recently that I needed more heatshrink and a molex removal tool. My order was placed on Thursday (7/14/11), and by the looks of the tracking information, the package is ready to be delivered to my door today (7/16/11).









It's also worth mentioning that the guys who do run FTWPC are good people, and not some skeezy jerks trying to scam the unsuspecting for a quick buck. If I have a question or concern, they are only a PM, email, or forum post away. (Phone service is available, but I have yet to use it.)

Sure, MDPC may have been one of the true pioneers for the computer enthusiast sector, but let's try to look at this from the positive aspect: imitation is the greatest form of flattery, isn't it?







Besides, (and I don't know how true may be, but) I can't imagine there are many other effective, high-quality weave patterns that perform as good as they look. So whether if you want to believe that this is just knock-off, or if this is actually just the best approach to creating a high quality sleeve, it's up for you to decide.

However, it is worth noting that since FTWPC has officially been shipping its "copied" product, MDPC has seemingly retaliated by putting up a sale on select colors. Even if you still only bought from MDPC, you can thank FTWPC for helping to stimulate better pricing, which we can now see is clearly feasible to still make some kind of profit. Make no mistake about it, competition is now underway and this will help to benefit the consumers' bottom dollars.









My wallet is both sad and happy at the exact same time.


----------



## Tator Tot

Some folks are very angry that competition came to the market and try to bash, derate, or belittle other vendors or designers for similar products because they fear the competition.

That's the way of the market as everyone is human.


----------



## mortimersnerd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xien16;14232611*
> I don't really understany some of you...
> 
> There is one who brought sleeve to the PC word, he is the one who invented all the mazing new colors and he also offers you the best accessories you need for sleeving (e.g. heatshrink, crimps, plugs....)
> 
> Now some guys see his work and copy it...
> They might be really good in copying and put a lot of work into it to get the same result BUT it is still only copying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (don't tell me it is not - I see the comparison of red and red ... this didn't happen by chance...)


The fanboy statements for MDPC-X are really starting to get old. FTW PC Sleeve is not an imitation of MDPC-X. We started R&D on a material that would be more resistant to fraying while still being able to be dyed. We chose to work on something new instead of copying. If we wanted to copy MDPC-X, we would have gone to Techflex and had them weave up a tight weave PET sleeving for $0.08-0.10/ft and sold it for $.15/ft.

As for that red, it is nothing special, it is just the standard red. If you go to just about any cable/sleeving company, you'll get the exact same red since most source their filament for weaving from the same company.

You are praising Nils for holding a monopoly on the market for the last few years and selling a product, which he gets for $0.08-0.10/ft, for $.35/ft. I'm sure there will always be people who just buy MDPC-X, but they should be happy that FTW PC entered the market to dissolve a monopoly, helping all customers.

On a side note - I would like to thank all of our friends here on OCN for the support. It has really helped to get this company off the ground.


----------



## Xien16

I totally understand you covertash








The shipping inside Germany is extremely cheap and we don't have to take the pice *1,4 like you have to do...

But Tator Tot you totally misunderstood me...
First of all - why should I for myself fear the competition between two MDPC-X and FTWPC???
I was referring to the sentences "we have to support FTW because they are local".
I would never use the location as an argument. Compared to the fact that they copy (do the same) the products this is a really weak argument for me...

So isn't it better to just say it as it is: "I like saving money"?

And you said it so often "they do such a good email support".
Just that nobody forgets about it: Nils does, too


----------



## shnur

For me in Canada it's the same price for both. So I'm torn as to where to order from, it would be faster from the US, but I've never waited more than a few days from Nils...


----------



## covert ash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mortimersnerd;14235064*
> The fanboy statements for MDPC-X are really starting to get old. FTW PC Sleeve is not an imitation of MDPC-X. We started R&D on a material that would be more resistant to fraying while still being able to be died. We chose to work on something new instead of copying. If we wanted to copy MDPC-X, we would have gone to Techflex and had them weave up a tight weave PET sleeving for $0.08-0.10/ft and sold it for $.15/ft.


This is very good to know. I will make sure to keep an eye out for the fraying if, and when, I can get a hold of some MDPC-X to compare.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mortimersnerd;14235064*
> On a side note - I would like to thank all of our friends here on OCN for the support. It has really helped to get this company off the ground.












By the way, thank you guys for getting my second package out. I just checked tracking again, and it is indeed out for delivery now!!!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xien16;14235098*
> I totally understand you covertash
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shipping inside Germany is extremely cheap and we don't have to take the pice *1,4 like you have to do...
> 
> But Tator Tot you totally misunderstood me...
> First of all - why should I for myself fear the competition between two MDPC-X and FTWPC???
> I was referring to the sentences "we have to support FTW because they are local".
> I would never use the location as an argument. Compared to the fact that they copy (do the same) the products this is a really weak argument for me...
> 
> So isn't it better to just say it as it is: "I like saving money"?
> 
> And you said it so often "they do such a good email support".
> Just that nobody forgets about it: Nils does, too


Yeah, in the end, it really comes down to pricing and speed of delivery. Whatever works best for the individual, in the end, is what is most important. As long as more and more beautiful work can be created, thanks to the availability of great options, everybody wins.


----------



## Copenhagen69

I think this thread should get back to what it was made for ... pictures of sleeving ... not companies posting sales and flame wars between sleeving companies...


----------



## shnur

I shall post a picture in a few days







Will start my sleeving job then!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I guess all I have to add to this discussion is that competition is good (for the consumers







), but MDPC should never be forgotten as being the one that has made cable sleeving what it is today in the world of computer aesthetics


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69;14238588*
> I think this thread should get back to what it was made for ... pictures of sleeving ... not companies posting sales and flame wars between sleeving companies...


I fully agree. +1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;14239257*
> I guess all I have to add to this discussion is that competition is good (for the consumers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), but MDPC should never be forgotten as being the one that has made cable sleeving what it is today in the world of computer aesthetics


And I fully agree with this as well. +1


----------



## MijnWraak

Settings were off so lots of noise and had to post process a lot, but this thread needs pictures.

Also good example of the importance of stretching the sleeve. The wire in the middle is properly tightened, the others are a bit too loose.


----------



## shnur

Wow, mix & match heatshrinks... that's is so sexy


----------



## spiderm0nkey

That IS sexy! Great photo too!


----------



## SmasherBasher

I like that!


----------



## FEAR.

Same colour sleeving but different heatshrink, I think you might be on to something there.


----------



## MijnWraak

Thanks guys









Already ordering more gray sleeve. And some Violet to have some fun with


----------



## Juggalo23451

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xien16*


I don't really understany some of you...

There is one who brought sleeve to the PC word, he is the one who invented all the mazing new colors and he also offers you the best accessories you need for sleeving (e.g. heatshrink, crimps, plugs....)

Now some guys see his work and copy it...
They might be really good in copying and put a lot of work into it to get the same result BUT it is still only copying









(don't tell me it is not - I see the comparison of red and red ... this didn't happen by chance...)











How is it copying when it is not even the same material.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Juggalo23451*


How is it copying when it is not even the same material.


Want to not start another argument?

Edit: Just thought I'd add the we're ALL lucky Apple hasn't made it into the sleeving business


----------



## SmasherBasher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*


Want to not start another argument?

Edit: Just thought I'd add the we're ALL lucky Apple hasn't made it into the sleeving business










Delete that before someone from Cupertino sees it and tries to patent it.


----------



## TC_Fenua

iSleeve, a Revolution !


----------



## MijnWraak

Comes in white, white, white, and white!


----------



## 161029

With a whitener to make it look so white, they'll know it's crapple!!!!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HybridCore*


With a whitener to make it look so white, they'll know it's crapple!!!!










Haha, that made me laugh


----------



## RushMore1205

just bought some FTWsleve


----------



## SmasherBasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14248054*
> just bought some FTWsleve


You didn't "just" buy it.







You ordered it yesterday and it was dropped at the post office last night.


----------



## Infrabasse

10000 !


----------



## Brittain

Just cuz I like it!


----------



## SmasherBasher

Mmm....paracord.


----------



## shnur

Is it me or the Paracord sleeving feels more hum... fluffy?


----------



## Dukman

Grr... I wish I had looked into this thread 30 minutes ago. Well... I can still cancel that order and place another.

Edit: One thing I don't see on the FTW website is molex connectors. They've got the pins, but no connectors. Or am I looking in the wrong places?


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*


You didn't "just" buy it.







You ordered it yesterday and it was dropped at the post office last night.










lol thanks


----------



## mortimersnerd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dukman*


Grr... I wish I had looked into this thread 30 minutes ago. Well... I can still cancel that order and place another.

Edit: One thing I don't see on the FTW website is molex connectors. They've got the pins, but no connectors. Or am I looking in the wrong places?


We are still trying to find a source that won't cost us, and you, an arm and a leg for a simple plastic molded piece. Should have some soon!


----------



## Ragsters

I have a question for you guys. I am finishing up sleeving some extensions and on my 24pin the 8th pin/wire, according to the diagram on this link:
http://pinouts.ru/Power/atx_v2_pinout.shtml
got messed up. My question is if I can use the 12th pin/wire as a replacement? What I mean is if the 12th pin/wire is not needed can I just move it to the 8th pin placement and leave the 12pin empty?

Edit: I'm sorry guys I meant pin #20 which is the -5v.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mortimersnerd*


We are still trying to find a source that won't cost us, and you, an arm and a leg for a simple plastic molded piece. Should have some soon!


I really hope so because I need some baaaad. Maybe you guys can require a minimum quantity purchase when buying connectors. Just a thought.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


I have a question for you guys. I am finishing up sleeving some extensions and on my 24pin the 8th pin/wire, according to the diagram on this link:
http://pinouts.ru/Power/atx_v2_pinout.shtml
got messed up. My question is if I can use the 12th pin/wire as a replacement? What I mean is if the 12th pin/wire is not needed can I just move it to the 8th pin placement and leave the 12pin empty?


You should just order a new wire, you need all of them present.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


You should just order a new wire, you need all of them present.


Really?
http://pinouts.ru/connector/24_pin_M...onnector.shtml

Also this:

Quote:



-5 VDC (this is optional on newer ATX-2 supplies, it is for use with older AT class expansion cards and can be omitted on newer units)


----------



## longroadtrip

Have a quick question for the FTW guys...which color do you think would match up best to an Asus p67 deluxe mobo? Getting ready to do a full sleeve on my psu, sata cables, etc. Thanks in advance!

Here's a quick photo:


----------



## Dukman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mortimersnerd*


We are still trying to find a source that won't cost us, and you, an arm and a leg for a simple plastic molded piece. Should have some soon!


Then I shall exercise patience and wait.


----------



## SmasherBasher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*


Have a quick question for the FTW guys...which color do you think would match up best to an Asus p67 deluxe mobo? Getting ready to do a full sleeve on my psu, sata cables, etc. Thanks in advance!

Here's a quick photo:










Electric Blue. I will snap a few pics tonight and post. They won't be perfect-quality since I will set the sleeving up next to a running motherboard, but for the purpose of pics, it will be fine. Back in 10 minutes.


----------



## longroadtrip

Sweet! Thanks SmasherBasher!


----------



## SmasherBasher

Here we go. Please ignore my nasty tubing. It's the stock tubing that came with the XSPC RX 360 kit from 2 months ago. I know it needs changed.


----------



## shnur

I second Smasher on that


----------



## longroadtrip

Thank you Smasher! Really appreciate you taking the time to do that! Now I know what I need to order!


----------



## Tatakai All

Sub'd for when I feel confident enough and have the time to give my rig some sleeve love.


----------



## mortimersnerd

Cobalt Blue (top) and Electric Blue (bottom).


----------



## Tator Tot

I think Mort meant 
Sexy blue on top, and super sexy blue on bottom


----------



## shnur

These two colours are sooooo pretttyy; sadly I can't match them on my build


----------



## Soul.

I just finished a small work log with my case, and I figured i'd share the results! Unfortunately I don't have a good camera, but hopefully you'll like them anyways!

Radiator with fans mounted - I merged all the wires into one, so I could drive all 3 fans with a single header port.









And heres the case!


----------



## mortimersnerd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I think Mort meant 
Sexy blue on top, and super sexy blue on bottom










I'm almost tempted to change the product description on the site.


----------



## RushMore1205

some FTW PC SLEEVE BABY


----------



## RushMore1205

does anyone know how good the FTW PC pci-e extraction tool is???????????????

i lost my MDPC and need one asap, are they similar material???


----------



## longroadtrip

Thanks again guys...will be ordering as soon as my wire, pins, and connectors arrive. Have to measure and make all new custom cables first, then on to super sexy blue & black sleeve-mania!


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


does anyone know how good the FTW PC pci-e extraction tool is???????????????

i lost my MDPC and need one asap, are they similar material???


Same as MDPC; it's the Molex brand one.


----------



## RushMore1205

cool thanks, will be ordering soon


----------



## Lutro0

Needs Moar Pics.


----------



## vdn20

I have question. For the people that has sleeved the Corsair HX Seriers PSU cables, was it hard to do? I'm planning to sleeve all the cables, except the ones already connected to the PSU, when I get the money to buy it the sleeving and heat shrinks. Thanks


----------



## Shane1244

Hard? No.
Time consuming. yes, Yes, YES!


----------



## Copenhagen69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


does anyone know how good the FTW PC pci-e extraction tool is???????????????

i lost my MDPC and need one asap, are they similar material???


save money and go with this one ...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=2964

worked great for me sleeving my PSU


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Copenhagen69*


save money and go with this one ...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=2964

worked great for me sleeving my PSU


With about half the quality.


----------



## SmasherBasher

I had one of those. Broke it within the first 5 minutes and took 5 days to get a replacement. Wasn't worth the initial savings. If you want the best, get the original.


----------



## Buska103

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*


The XFX 750W Black Edition needs 157 feet not including heatshrink. We have made a power supply database so we know how much to quote when people inquire for sleeving work.











Got any records of a HX750?


----------



## rheicel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


Hard? No.
Time consuming. yes, Yes, YES!


This.... .. .

Sleeving is all about time and fun!


----------



## vdn20

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rheicel*


This.... .. .

Sleeving is all about time and fun!


Sounds like fun. Now I just have to decide on which to get.

I'm curious, anyone have any pics on what the sleeves would look like when it's done for an Corsair HX PSU?


----------



## mad87645

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103;14265323*
> Got any records of a HX750?


im not quite sure how that works....=P

please elaborate, that figure is confusing me


----------



## Infrabasse

Corsair HX 750


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vdn20;14265521*
> Sounds like fun. Now I just have to decide on which to get.
> 
> I'm curious, anyone have any pics on what the sleeves would look like when it's done for an Corsair HX PSU?


here is my HX620 that is still ongoing



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

i can post more if you want.


----------



## vdn20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rheicel;14267606*
> here is my HX620 that is still ongoing
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> i can post more if you want.


Thanks for the pictures. I'll just get to the point and ask the question I had, did you have to separate the wires on the connectors and sleeve each wire individually? Thanks


----------



## mortimersnerd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vdn20*


Thanks for the pictures. I'll just get to the point and ask the question I had, did you have to separate the wires on the connectors and sleeve each wire individually? Thanks


Yes. A tool like this helps greatly.


----------



## vdn20

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mortimersnerd*


Yes. A tool like this helps greatly.


Oh crap, I was afraid of this. It's going to be a lot of sleeving. Thanks for the information.


----------



## Lutro0

Can also be found Here, for a tiny bit cheaper (depending on shipping) as well as other things.

Can also be found Here, among other things.

The part is:

MOLEX - 11-03-0044 - Extraction Tool
Manufacturer MOLEX INC.
Manufacturer no. 11-03-0044

This should help those that are buying more than just the tool. =)


----------



## mortimersnerd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;14270201*
> Can also be found Here, for a tiny bit cheaper (depending on shipping) as well as other things.
> 
> Can also be found Here, among other things.
> 
> The part is:
> 
> MOLEX - 11-03-0044 - Extraction Tool
> Manufacturer MOLEX INC.
> Manufacturer no. 11-03-0044


Keep in mind that Allied Electronics has a $5 processing fee.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mortimersnerd*


Keep in mind that Allied Electronics has a $5 processing fee.


Ya for orders under $25 I believe, most of the time when buying pins and stuff, it ends up over that. =P That's why I didn't list that one as being cheaper.

The ftw price is a awesome one, but it's nice to get your pins and other stuff all at once. At least for those that need them.


----------



## SmasherBasher

If you need pins, just get them from us and the shipping is the same. It doesn't go up as long as it fits in the same package.


----------



## Dukman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rheicel*


This.... .. .

Sleeving is all about time and fun!


Sometimes I wonder about the fun part. But the time part is correct.

If you start getting frustated or impatient. Put what your doing down and walk away. Come back later after some R&R, or maybe C&C. (and I'm not referring to the RTS game.)


----------



## animal0307

Got some paracord today. Just ordered crimp pins, heat shrink, and pin tool.


----------



## MijnWraak

A bit less advertising here, guys?


----------



## Shane1244

Yea seriously. It's getting annoying.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


You should just order a new wire, you need all of them present.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


I have a question for you guys. I am finishing up sleeving some extensions and on my 24pin the 8th pin/wire, according to the diagram on this link:
http://pinouts.ru/Power/atx_v2_pinout.shtml
got messed up. My question is if I can use the 12th pin/wire as a replacement? What I mean is if the 12th pin/wire is not needed can I just move it to the 8th pin placement and leave the 12pin empty?


I messed up and fixed my post. I meant pin #20 not 12.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


I messed up and fixed my post. I meant pin #20 not 12.


Most 24pins only have 23 wires, and I'm pretty sure the #20 is the one missing, so it isn't actually there to replace the one you botched.


----------



## Tator Tot

Yeah, the X-Series unit's don't come with the -5v wire (no modern units do.)

That slot is almost always blank.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MijnWraak;14276019*
> Most 24pins only have 23 wires, and I'm pretty sure the #20 is the one missing, so it isn't actually there to replace the one you botched.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot;14276056*
> Yeah, the X-Series unit's don't come with the -5v wire (no modern units do.)
> 
> That slot is almost always blank.


I am referring to an extension that I bought not my PSU. And yes the extension does have the white -5V wire.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;14276267*
> I am referring to an extension that I bought not my PSU. And yes the extension does have the white -5V wire.


Then as long as it's the same gauge, go for it.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;14276267*
> I am referring to an extension that I bought not my PSU. And yes the extension does have the white -5V wire.


Since your PSU doesn't have one, the wire won't do anything.

So yeah, as long as it's the same gauge, you can swap it.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot;14276377*
> Since your PSU doesn't have one, the wire won't do anything.
> 
> So yeah, as long as it's the same gauge, you can swap it.


Thanks!


----------



## MijnWraak

Anyone have any recommendations for a heat gun? What temperature would be best? And does anyone have any tricks (like some sort of insulating tape to protect the sleeve next to the shrink or something)


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MijnWraak;14277356*
> Anyone have any recommendations for a heat gun? What temperature would be best? And does anyone have any tricks (like some sort of insulating tape to protect the sleeve next to the shrink or something)


[ame="[URL=http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325&tag=overclockdotnet-20&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FKawasaki-840015-Black-10-Piece-Heat%2Fdp%2FB000H4I67I%2Fref%3Dsr_1_1%3Fie%3DUTF8%26qid%3D1311137262%26sr%3D8-1]http://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-840015-Black-10-Piece-Heat/dp/B000H4I67I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1311137262&sr=8-1"]http://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-840015-Black-10-Piece-Heat/dp/B000H4I67I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1311137262&sr=8-1[/ame[/URL]]

That is the one I purchased, it has two speeds. It has served me well, although when I bought mine it was 15 shipped =/

As for tips, I always just went is sweeping passes, shrinking a little bit at a time and giving the plastic a small ammount of time to cool down so I didnt melt it.


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MijnWraak;14277356*
> Anyone have any recommendations for a heat gun? What temperature would be best? And does anyone have any tricks (like some sort of insulating tape to protect the sleeve next to the shrink or something)


I use the cheapest heat gun. OZITO

and by the way, you can use masking tape to protect the platic plugs.


----------



## jadawgis732

Furryletters also sells grey


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rheicel;14277504*
> and by the way, you can use masking tape to protect the platic plugs.


I wouldn't be worried about the plugs at all to be honest. The sleeve starts to tarnish way before the plugs get hurt. Not to mention, you generally don't shrink near the plugs at all, your finished wire plugs into the plug only once fully sleeved/shrunk.


----------



## Martin S

MDPC-X Black and Orange:


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Beautiful work (as always!) Martin! That orange looks gorgeous


----------



## MijnWraak

A little comparison of FTW sleeve to MDPC sleeve.

The weave is a bit more dense in MDPC - about 4:3; within a certain distance between my thumbs, I can see 8 repeating patterns in MDPC while seeing 6 in FTW. The filament is larger, though I cannot measure them since I do not possess a dial caliper, but it gives the FTW sleeve a softer look to them which blurs out the shadows (see pictures) MDPC is noticeably a smaller diameter when in rest (a good thing) however FTW expands about 1/8" more. I took a video comparing how much light is let through each, will upload it tonight. Pictures will also be up around 9pm EDT.

I only had aquamarine to compare with, while B-Magic and Royal blue would have been a better comparison, but the FTW color choice looks pretty damn good. The MDPC orange is MUCH more striking in person compared to the FTW sleeve. It is UV-reactive as well. It's similar to, say FTW being a pumpkin or a bit duller than the orange wires attached to a PSU, and MDPC being more manmade, when seen in a warning sign or similar.

The whites are very comparable. They're almost exactly the same shade of white. However, with the thicker material in FTW, it makes it seem like it's less white. I'm not sure why, but it says "vanilla frosting" while MDPC says "cloud".

The FTW shrink is a smaller diameter with a thicker wall, and a 3:1 shrink ratio versus MDPC-X's 4:1. They are cut to the same length as the MDPC-X pre-cut heatshrink, however the cuts are imperfect, slanting a bit to one side, not at a right angle. I have not sleeved any cables with it yet, but I would be pretty hesitant unless I had no option.

Also to note, at least with the small test size, the sleeve came in a small container that made it curve with a smaller radius, and also has a 90 degree turn in it at the end. I haven't ordered a large quantity though, so hopefully that comes fully circular similar to MDPC-X. I cut both samples with the same cable cutter (Park Tool) and no burning.

Again I'll get the pictures up around 9.


----------



## Martin S

Thanks Krissy!

MDPC-X Black and Aquamarine-Blue:


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martin S;14298961*
> Thanks Krissy!
> 
> MDPC-X Black and Aquamarine-Blue:
> 
> -img snip-


Always liked that combo, good work Martin.


----------



## Infrabasse

I'm starting to doubt whether Martin is an actual person. He's more of a finely tuned robot!


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martin S;14298961*
> Thanks Krissy!
> 
> MDPC-X Black and Aquamarine-Blue:


Do you have any extra aqua blue you can sell me?


----------



## MijnWraak

MDPC-X on the left each color. FTWPC on right.









MDPC-X white under FTW.









Imperfect black FTW shrink.









MDPC on left each color.









MDPC-X left, FTW right.









MDPC-X left, FTW right.









MDPC-X left, FTW right.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MijnWraak;14297947*
> A little comparison of FTW sleeve to MDPC sleeve.
> 
> The weave is a bit more dense in MDPC - about 4:3; within a certain distance between my thumbs, I can see 8 repeating patterns in MDPC while seeing 6 in FTW. The filament is larger, though I cannot measure them since I do not possess a dial caliper, but it gives the FTW sleeve a softer look to them which blurs out the shadows (see pictures) MDPC is noticeably a smaller diameter when in rest (a good thing) however FTW expands about 1/8" more. I took a video comparing how much light is let through each, will upload it tonight. Pictures will also be up around 9pm EDT.
> 
> I only had aquamarine to compare with, while B-Magic and Royal blue would have been a better comparison, but the FTW color choice looks pretty damn good. The MDPC orange is MUCH more striking in person compared to the FTW sleeve. It is UV-reactive as well. It's similar to, say FTW being a pumpkin or a bit duller than the orange wires attached to a PSU, and MDPC being more manmade, when seen in a warning sign or similar.
> 
> The whites are very comparable. They're almost exactly the same shade of white. However, with the thicker material in FTW, it makes it seem like it's less white. I'm not sure why, but it says "vanilla frosting" while MDPC says "cloud".
> 
> The FTW shrink is a smaller diameter with a thicker wall, and a 3:1 shrink ratio versus MDPC-X's 4:1. They are cut to the same length as the MDPC-X pre-cut heatshrink, however the cuts are imperfect, slanting a bit to one side, not at a right angle. I have not sleeved any cables with it yet, but I would be pretty hesitant unless I had no option.
> 
> Also to note, at least with the small test size, the sleeve came in a small container that made it curve with a smaller radius, and also has a 90 degree turn in it at the end. I haven't ordered a large quantity though, so hopefully that comes fully circular similar to MDPC-X. I cut both samples with the same cable cutter (Park Tool) and no burning.
> 
> Again I'll get the pictures up around 9.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Nice to see a comparison







I like the blue FTW sleeve. Looks nice.


----------



## TC_Fenua




----------



## Buska103

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;14302198*
> Nice to see a comparison
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the blue FTW sleeve. Looks nice.


Yeah, but I just like the look of MDPC-X more because it looks smaller than FTW-PC. Not that I'd buy filament sleeving... feels too rigid and bulky in my opinion. Paracord is my preference









And yes, the blue is wonderful. The white doesn't seem to cast shadows, unlike MDPC-X white.


----------



## Smo

That comparison has just sold MDPC-X for me - looks so much denser, love the tight weave.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103;14305473*
> Yeah, but I just like the look of MDPC-X more because it looks smaller than FTW-PC. Not that I'd buy filament sleeving... feels too rigid and bulky in my opinion. Paracord is my preference
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, the blue is wonderful. The white doesn't seem to cast shadows, unlike MDPC-X white.


I like the look of MDPC-X too







B-Magic is probably a pretty similar colour to the FTW blue.


----------



## xILukasIx

I hope this thread isn't just about sleeved PC cables









Here's my first try at sleeving ANYTHING:


----------



## Smo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xILukasIx;14310892*
> I hope this thread isn't just about sleeved PC cables
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my first try at sleeving ANYTHING:


Love it


----------



## FEAR.

Anyone seen the new prices for MDPC sleeve? Even shipping is cheaper. I'm about to build a new system, so this is perfect timing.


----------



## Hysteria~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xILukasIx;14310892*
> I hope this thread isn't just about sleeved PC cables
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my first try at sleeving ANYTHING:


That looks great!


----------



## subnet

Bitfenix is selling the following cable extensions (among others) but they use a cloth type braid which feels like Paracord (no offense to anyone, I just dont like it):









Is it possible to do this with MDPC/FTW/AUS Pc sleeving? I have some Flexo Clean cut and it seems too big to fit into the connector slot (will try it when I get home).


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subnet;14314766*
> Bitfenix is selling the following cable extensions (among others) but they use a cloth type braid which feels like Paracord (no offense to anyone, I just dont like it):
> -img snip-
> 
> Is it possible to do this with MDPC/FTW/AUS Pc sleeving? I have some Flexo Clean cut and it seems too big to fit into the connector slot (will try it when I get home).


It is possible to do the same HS less style with both mdpc and auspc sleeve, both require a little work. But the look is one of a kind. I cannot comment on ftw as I have not had the chance to use any.









This is AusPC Sleeve.


----------



## subnet

I suppose I will have to stretch the sleeve to make it as thin as possible. I will give this a try...


----------



## xILukasIx

How would sleeving my Sennheiser HD 595's cable work?
The 6.3mm headphone plug is way too big for the sleeving I have at the moment...


----------



## Smo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xILukasIx;14318542*
> How would sleeving my Sennheiser HD 595's cable work?
> The 6.3mm headphone plug is way too big for the sleeving I have at the moment...


Your only option is to either cut it off, or disassemble the other end. It's probably easier to cut and reattach it.


----------



## xILukasIx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smo;14318689*
> Your only option is to either cut it off, or disassemble the other end. It's probably easier to cut and reattach it.


That sounds a bit too risky for my taste








They weren't exacly cheap here in Austria...


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;14315013*
> It is possible to do the same HS less style with both mdpc and auspc sleeve, both require a little work. But the look is one of a kind. I cannot comment on ftw as I have not had the chance to use any.
> 
> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v20/lylekagada/dsc03947z.jpg
> 
> This is AusPC Sleeve.


How is this actually done?
just glue?


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xILukasIx;14318542*
> How would sleeving my Sennheiser HD 595's cable work?
> The 6.3mm headphone plug is way too big for the sleeving I have at the moment...


It's very easy! Take off the earcup, then there's three screws underneath of that. Then take off the speaker. Under that, is the cable for the headphone, and it's attached to the headset with a 4 prong connector, Just unplug it and feed it through the hole!

The other end of the cable looks like this, and it WILL fit through sleeving. I did it with my HD555's, which are the exact same!


----------



## MijnWraak

Forgot I uploaded it









[ame]http://vimeo.com/26751827[/ame]

ooh, look at OCN with it's auto-imbedding









order of appearances: White FTW, White MDPC-X; MDPC-X top, FTW bottom.


----------



## Xien16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xILukasIx;14318542*
> The 6.3mm headphone plug is way too big for the sleeving I have at the moment...


A 7.7mm plug was the maximum I sleeved with MDPC-X small sleeve


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;14319191*
> How is this actually done?
> just glue?


No glue, just melting the tip of the sleeving to the pin far enough up so that it goes into the connector and stays secure.


----------



## Infrabasse

hmmm, is it more secure than it sounds ?


----------



## xILukasIx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shane1244;14319261*
> It's very easy! Take off the earcup, then there's three screws underneath of that. Then take off the speaker. Under that, is the cable for the headphone, and it's attached to the headset with a 4 prong connector, Just unplug it and feed it through the hole!
> 
> The other end of the cable looks like this, and it WILL fit through sleeving. I did it with my HD555's, which are the exact same!


Hey, thanks a lot!

Going to sleeve it NAO hahaha.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xILukasIx*


Hey, thanks a lot!

Going to sleeve it NAO hahaha.


No problem! Good luck!

One last tip, Put tape over the cable tip you unplug, It makes it a hell of a lot easier to get over!


----------



## xILukasIx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shane1244;14320170*
> No problem! Good luck!
> 
> One last tip, Put tape over the cable tip you unplug, It makes it a hell of a lot easier to get over!


Yeah, that was the first thing I did when I unplugged it, thanks anyways








+ rep

Here's the result:









Here's a close-up shot of the HS:








Notice the small white spots next to the sleeve? Could this be dirt on my lens or is that something worse lol (look at it at 100% scale, you won't see it otherwise)


----------



## Infrabasse

seems like simple shinyness to me

Oh I see it now! I'm no expert but it doesn't look like dust to me, more of a "pixel" issue. A 100% crop would be better to disgnose the issue though.

Can you reproduce the issue with otheranother picture? Does it appear in the same place ?


----------



## Brittain

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xILukasIx*


Yeah, that was the first thing I did when I unplugged it, thanks anyways








+ rep

Here's the result:









Here's a close-up shot of the HS:








Notice the small white spots next to the sleeve? Could this be dirt on my lens or is that something worse lol (look at it at 100% scale, you won't see it otherwise)



I see the spots. Looks like three of them. Hopefully they are not bad pixels on your camera. could be spots of dust. Try cleaning your lens and take another picture. Are the spots still there? 
Nice work sleeving your headphones by the way


----------



## Infrabasse

I would tend to think dust creates dark spots, not bright white ones. Could be wrong though.
Maybe if the dust is on the lense and not the sensor it could reflect light and create a white spot.

Anyway, 1st test would be to try to reproduce the spots.


----------



## Brittain

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


No glue, just melting the tip of the sleeving to the pin far enough up so that it goes into the connector and stays secure.


That looks so clean! I'm impressed. And you know I'm picky!


----------



## xILukasIx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infrabasse*


I would tend to think dust creates dark spots, not bright white ones. Could be wrong though.
Maybe if the dust is on the lense and not the senor it could reflect light and create a white spot.

Anyway, 1st test would be to try to reproduce the spots.


I've had these spots on other pictures as well.
Three spots, all at the same position.

I'll clean the camera and take another picture.


----------



## Infrabasse

From what I'm reading, white spots are generally a sign of a sensor problem. Maybe the sensor itself is dusty but I'd say you have some dead pixels. 
Have you pointed your camera straight into the sun?


----------



## xILukasIx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infrabasse*


From what I'm reading, white spots are generally a sign of a sensor problem. Maybe the sensor itself is dusty but I'd say you have some dead pixels. 
Have you pointed your camera straight into the sun?


Yes, I did point at the sun once, but that was 2 years ago and I didn't have any spots afterwards.
Here's the pic of the sun:
http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/6...0906130586.jpg
And here is a picture a few hours after the "sun-pic":
http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/9...0906130608.jpg
Not a single spot there.

Here are the new pictures I just took after cleaning the lenses.
The first one is with the same lens (Canon EFS 18-55mm) as before, the second one is with a Tamron 70-300mm.
http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/1677/img4048b.jpg
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/5779/img4050p.jpg
So, cleaning the lense or switching it didn't help...

Dead pixels mean replacing the sensor, I suppose?

EDIT: The spots appeared one after the other after some time, I checked some pic from the last 2 years...
*EDIT 2: Spots do NOT appear on RAW images!* Good news?


----------



## Infrabasse

Yeah I think they replace the sensor assembly. I doubt it's under warranty anymore after (2 or more) years.

It's a hassle but you could resort to editing your pictures to replace that white pixel. Create a batch job in photoshop that'll copy an adjacent pixel onto the white pixel.


----------



## xILukasIx

I guess you got ninja'd lol
Check my second edit.

EDIT: I'm very sorry for abusing this wonderful thread for my personal camera problems...


----------



## Infrabasse

That RAW/JPEG disparity is really weird. I would seek professional advice.

edit: It is possible that the JPEG compression is making a hot pixel worse, and that's why you aren't seeing it in the RAW.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xILukasIx*


Yeah, that was the first thing I did when I unplugged it, thanks anyways








+ rep

Here's the result:









Here's a close-up shot of the HS:








Notice the small white spots next to the sleeve? Could this be dirt on my lens or is that something worse lol (look at it at 100% scale, you won't see it otherwise)


Looks awesome!









Did it kill your fingers to do? It did for me..


----------



## Buska103

How much sleeve for a Corsiar HX750 power supply?

The more the better, I know, just wanting to know a solid number


----------



## animal0307

Anyone have a pin map/diagram for the Seasonic X series? I want to double check mine. I can't seem to make google work for me tonight.


----------



## shnur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Buska103*


How much sleeve for a Corsiar HX750 power supply?

The more the better, I know, just wanting to know a solid number










Get the spec-sheet, multiply the # of cables by their respective length









http://www.corsair.com/power-supplie...-1/hx750w.html

Quote:



Originally Posted by *animal0307*


Anyone have a pin map/diagram for the Seasonic X series? I want to double check mine. I can't seem to make google work for me tonight.


I think some guy had it posted with a LittleDevil build log. Let me go try and find it









HERE!

You should check out his build log... pretty epic!


----------



## animal0307

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*


I think some guy had it posted with a LittleDevil build log. Let me go try and find it









HERE!

You should check out his build log... pretty epic!


I think I love you. Thank you so much.


----------



## Dukman

Okay, maybe someone would be willing to un-noobify me here.

How are you guys sleeving the SATA cables? Are you disasembling the cables? Or simply expanding the sleeving over one of the ends?

I would love to sleeve my SATA cables. In fact, I hadn't even considered that as an option until I started seeing them on here.


----------



## TC_Fenua

To sleeve SATA cables, it's really easy. You just have to compress the sleeve so the radius will expand and this way the SATA cable will go through like butter. Then you just put some heatshrink at both ends to tighten it.

This is my first sleeving job ever :


----------



## xILukasIx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shane1244;14322291*
> Looks awesome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did it kill your fingers to do? It did for me..


Thanks









What do you mean though?
I was afraid of breaking them, but then it wasn't as difficult as I thought.

You got to know, when I tried them out afterwards, the left speaker did not work anymore, should have heard my heart beat hahaha
Was just a loose connection of one of the pins, easily fixed.


----------



## mortimersnerd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103;14322688*
> How much sleeve for a Corsiar HX750 power supply?
> 
> The more the better, I know, just wanting to know a solid number


We haven't computed the total length for that one but the TX750 is 168ft and TX750 V2 is 178ft. An HX1050 is 208ft. I would estimate the HX750 to be close to 200ft.


----------



## xILukasIx

Just a random pic I just took:


----------



## SmasherBasher

Just because I can, I sleeved my headphones today.

Kicker earbuds with red FTW Sleeve and black 3/16 heat shrink




























My old, but not yet ready to be replaced Panasonic over-the-ear cans with white FTW sleeve and a couple large pieces of heat shrink I found laying around.


----------



## shnur

Best that I could do; my girlfriend lost our DSLR during a trip to the US... those "Rest Areas".

In order:
Black, Grand-Bleu, Violet, Copper brown, Aquamarine-Blue, Titanium Grey, Purple, Combat-Green, Color-x

Oh & extra lighting:










Now I'm waiting for Lutro0's package & I'm ready to sleeve up


----------



## nitrousoxide10

I'm shopping for a power supply, but I want to buy something I can sleeve without voiding warrenty. Is there a way to sleeve a power supply that has the motherboard, cpu and gpu connections non-modular?


----------



## SmasherBasher

Corsair HX 1000 is like that. The 24 pin, 2 6+2 PCI-Express and 8 pin EPS are non-modular. I have one opened sitting here right now that just came back from powder coat.


----------



## nitrousoxide10

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*


Corsair HX 1000 is like that. The 24 pin, 2 6+2 PCI-Express and 8 pin EPS are non-modular. I have one opened sitting here right now that just came back from powder coat.


Warrenty is void now that it has been opened right? I would like to sleeve it without voiding warrenty. But if thats not possible, I'll get a 100% modular PSU.


----------



## AndrewM56

If its not 100% modular I think the only other way to not void warranty is just make extensions so the part you see is sleeved and the rest isnt


----------



## shnur

You can do it & try to put the heatshrink as far as possible, here's one of my early attempts:



Then put some big heatshrink at the base and it covers everything. It's not perfect, but it's hard to do better without voiding warranty.


----------



## nitrousoxide10

Alright thanks for the info guys. I'll see what I decide to do.


----------



## SmasherBasher

We are working on a way to have power supplies custom sleeved and in choices of colors while keeping the warranty in tact.


----------



## nitrousoxide10

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*


We are working on a way to have power supplies custom sleeved and in choices of colors while keeping the warranty in tact.


Sounds good!


----------



## Lutro0

Just some work I did tonight... =)


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Ahh it really does look so gooood!! That heatshrink..


----------



## TC_Fenua

I concur, excellent sleeving job Lutro0 !


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Just some work I did tonight... =)


Look great but a little white electric tape goes a long way


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Ahh it really does look so gooood!! That heat shrink..










=D

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TC_Fenua*


I concur, excellent sleeving job Lutro0 !


Thanks!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


Look great but a little white electric tape goes a long way










Shush you!







I fully agree, but I wanted to see if putting black wires under the white sleeve would give a nice graying/muted white effect.


----------



## vdn20

I'm not sure if this has already been mentioned yet or not, but I got a response from Corsair about the warranty of their PSU when the cables are sleeved. I asked specifically for the HX750 PSU, and they said this and attached a copy of the document of the limited warranty.

Quote:



Sleeving the power supply itself will not void the warranty. However, if the power supply was damage because of this then it will not be covered under our warranty.


----------



## Necrodox

I keep trying to get the perfect sleeve but lining them up is impossible, do you guys use the MDPC heatshrink or does everyone prefer using another type of heashrink?I try and keep it all by the book and still I cannot get it. Tips?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Necrodox*


I keep trying to get the perfect sleeve but lining them up is impossible, do you guys use the MDPC heat shrink or does everyone prefer using another type of heashrink?I try and keep it all by the book and still I cannot get it. Tips?


I def prefer MDPC Precut HS (that being said ive never used FTW HS) but I have used AUSPC HS and Techflex Shrink, among may others.

The trick to getting it straight is to take your time and always shrink the sleeve in the same spot as well as always put the shrink in the same spot on every pin, you can do this many ways. The easiest being to take a marker and make a line on the wire while it is still hooked upto the connector (make the line exactly where the wire disappears into the connector). The pull the sleeve to the spot you marked with the marker and shrink it in that spot, go ahead and do two of them. Hold them up to each other side by side. If they match your good to go, if not redo one of them until they do.

There is allot more to it but thats the quick breakdown.


----------



## Necrodox

Any tips on making a mark on a black wire? I was thinking about just using a razor to cut it a tad bit.

Also I wanted to make my own 24 pin cable, are there any guides on how I should wire it? Type of gauge wire, if I can make them all the same gauge. Etc.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Necrodox*


Any tips on making a mark on a black wire? I was thinking about just using a razor to cut it a tad bit.

Also I wanted to make my own 24 pin cable, are there any guides on how I should wire it? Type of gauge wire, if I can make them all the same gauge. Etc.


I use a silver color sharpie.


----------



## TC_Fenua

or some white correction fluid.


----------



## andos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;14359581*
> Just some work I did tonight... =)


Where does one acquire that beautiful heatshrink?


----------



## Dukman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox;14372644*
> Also I wanted to make my own 24 pin cable, are there any guides on how I should wire it? Type of gauge wire, if I can make them all the same gauge. Etc.


This is what I am gearing up for.

Since you're going to build your own cable, use any color wire you want. I'm going to be using white 18ga wire and then I'll just use a different colored Sharpie to mark each wire with the color it needs to be to help me wire the cable correctly.

Also, you could easily mark the spot you need to line up the heatshring.

The other suggestions, silver sharpie and white out are excellent. I've used the white out method numerous times.

One thing about building the 24 pin cable. I was looking at some extensions that I have, and they seem to wired straight across, pin to pin (1 to 1, etc) while my factory 24 pins cross over 1 to 12 ect.)


----------



## TC_Fenua

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andos;14374109*
> Where does one acquire that beautiful heatshrink?


MDPC-X


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dukman;14375461*
> One thing about building the 24 pin cable. I was looking at some extensions that I have, and they seem to wired straight across, pin to pin (1 to 1, etc) while my factory 24 pins cross over 1 to 12 ect.)


Well you wouldn't want to crossover twice and end up with no crossover at all ...


----------



## Dukman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;14376001*
> Well you wouldn't want to crossover twice and end up with no crossover at all ...


Yeah, I was thinking about why after I posted this. Thats what I get for posting tired.


----------



## andos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TC_Fenua;14375891*
> MDPC-X


Looks familiar to my FTW pc heatshrink, yet result is not the same.


----------



## fshizl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dukman;14375461*
> This is what I am gearing up for.
> 
> Since you're going to build your own cable, use any color wire you want. I'm going to be using white 18ga wire and then I'll just use a different colored Sharpie to mark each wire with the color it needs to be to help me wire the cable correctly.
> 
> Also, you could easily mark the spot you need to line up the heatshring.
> 
> The other suggestions, silver sharpie and white out are excellent. I've used the white out method numerous times.
> 
> One thing about building the 24 pin cable. I was looking at some extensions that I have, and they seem to wired straight across, pin to pin (1 to 1, etc) while my factory 24 pins cross over 1 to 12 ect.)


do you have a full modular cable? it would be a waste to mark white cable. If its full modular and you have 2 24 pin ends on both sides, just match pin 1 with pin 1 on the other side.


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;14381332*
> If its full modular and you have 2 24 pin ends on both sides, just match pin 1 with pin 1 on the other side.


Careful, there is not always a pin to pin correspondence.


----------



## moop

some sleeving I did with MDPC-X


----------



## FEAR.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moop;14383615*
> *snip
> 
> some sleeving I did with MDPC-X


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Beeeautiful!


----------



## Dukman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;14381332*
> do you have a full modular cable? it would be a waste to mark white cable. If its full modular and you have 2 24 pin ends on both sides, just match pin 1 with pin 1 on the other side.


I do.

I wasn't going to marking up the wire very much. Just a colored tick mark so I can compare it against the cable I'm using as an example. Plus, I'll be sleeving the wires anyway, so the little tick marks won't be visible.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;14381364*
> Careful, there is not always a pin to pin correspondence.


Right.

The extension can go pin to pin, but the main cable can't. In my fatigue last night, that had me momentarily confused.


----------



## MooCwzRck

FINALLY ordered my mdpc sleeving! About how long will it take to get in to North Carolina you guys think??


----------



## moop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooCwzRck;14397251*
> FINALLY ordered my mdpc sleeving! About how long will it take to get in to North Carolina you guys think??


took me a little over one week to get mine, but I'm in California


----------



## theturbofd

First try go easy on me :] oh yea I find using a bobby pin to depin makes it easier for me. Also yes I know I didnt sleeve the whole cable just mostly what you can see.


----------



## shnur

It's a great start! Finish everything & you'll have something pretty!

What are you going to use to hide the big chunk?


----------



## theturbofd

Well luckily it hides in the back of the case lol

Ran out of sleeves so I had to order more







this is what I got so far









What should I do with the GPU cable? they come in a U shape for some reason


----------



## Necrodox

I wanted to ask you guys about sleeve lengths, I try my hardest to get the same length sleeve but whatever I do I always end up with slight variations in size. I simply make a guide sleeve that fits perfectly and then cut all the other sleeve lengths in accordance to the guide sleeve.

I hold the sleeves in between my thumb and index finger and run it down until I hit the end.

Does anyone use a different method for cutting their sleeve? Just curious.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox;14402684*
> I wanted to ask you guys about sleeve lengths, I try my hardest to get the same length sleeve but whatever I do I always end up with slight variations in size. I simply make a guide sleeve that fits perfectly and then cut all the other sleeve lengths in accordance to the guide sleeve.
> 
> I hold the sleeves in between my thumb and index finger and run it down until I hit the end.
> 
> Does anyone use a different method for cutting their sleeve? Just curious.


Are you making your own wires too. I am just saying that unless the wires are exactly the same then you can't make the sleeving sizes exactly the same.


----------



## Infrabasse

Sometimes you also need to have differing length wires along the same cable to make it turn/bend the way you want it.
It can be very tricky.


----------



## Necrodox

Nah the wires are from the PSU I purchased, I already measured them and they're good. My sleeving always varies by a little bit though, it's nothing insane but it drives me nuts sometimes lol.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Just made a silly mistake with my Silverstone psu.. Came back to it today after forgetting about it for a few months and saw one cable was hanging out so plugged it in where I thought it was supposed to go. Except I found another empty pin slot in the connector and I think it was supposed to go in there instead. However since the wires are sleeved, I can't for the life of me remember which one I put in:doh: Does anyone have a pin layout chart for a Silverstone 24pin?


----------



## shnur

Isn't it all the same 24pin connectors?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur;14409191*
> Isn't it all the same 24pin connectors?


I looked at the picture on the first page of this thread and it didn't seem to have any pins missing at all so it got me confused. After everything is all plugged in on mine, there is still supposed to be one empty spot. I did find a chart that made more sense to me though than the one in the OP. Only difference is this one said N/C instead of -5V. (That's what confused me)


----------



## shnur

N/C = no connection.
-5V isn't used anymore AFAIK so it's an N/C too... ^^,


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur;14409270*
> N/C = no connection.
> -5V isn't used anymore AFAIK so it's an N/C too... ^^,


Yep exactly







As soon as I saw the N/C it made sense. It was just the -5V that threw me off.


----------



## RushMore1205

Almost done, FTW sleeve, very good quality

Sorry for bad quality


----------



## shnur

Oh it's one of those Antec PSU's with caps on the wires!

How did you got around to sleeve past the capacitor?


----------



## Imrac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*


Oh it's one of those Antec PSU's with caps on the wires!

How did you got around to sleeve past the capacitor?










It looks to be a corsair not an antec, and those look like add-on ferrite cores.


----------



## r31ncarnat3d

Not necessarily a casemod, but I've some FTW sleeving on the way to sleeve my AD700s/Zalman mic cables together. Will post pics when finished


----------



## SmasherBasher

I just pull the caps off then sleeve right over where they were. They make no real-world difference.

Looking good, Rushmore


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;14417992*
> I just pull the caps off then sleeve right over where they were. They make no real-world difference.
> 
> Looking good, Rushmore


It does on the Antec True Power Quattro 1200 / EVGA SR 2 / True Power Quattro 1200 OC


----------



## Skiivari

Yay, got some sleeving on my TP-650














Cost me like 6 euros total. The "sleeve" is cheap rope from a hardware store. It's PET but it isn't really that bad. I can barely make out some colour shade diffrences on different coloured wires.
How does OCN like it?


----------



## Tator Tot

Weave looks like Clean Cut, the overall job is really well done man.

Not sure about the color, as it might just be your camera.


----------



## Lutro0

Reminds me of carrots.


----------



## Skiivari

The colour is more like in the 3 first pictures, but yeah, the colour is sort of carrot-like


----------



## SmasherBasher

Hmm....That looks awfully familiar. That wouldn't be FTW Sleeve would it? Looks tasty!


----------



## Skiivari

Thanks! *hides cables from hungry ocn'ers*

I didn't get it from you guys and even though this and your orange ftw sleeve look alike I think there's one difference. The stuff I bought frays like crazy, and from what I've seen/read/heard your ftw sleeve doesn't fray.


----------



## Necrodox

My latest sleeves;


















I wanted to ask you guys about wiring a 24 pin cable, can't seem to find a diagram on how to wire them and I wanted to know if they could all be the same gauge wire?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Infrabasse

@Skiivari
I'd be afraid the sleeve would slip out of the heatshrink seeing how short a length of it you're using. Especially since you're saying it frays like crazy. Looks very neat though so thumbs up


----------



## moop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox;14425810*
> I wanted to ask you guys about wiring a 24 pin cable, can't seem to find a diagram on how to wire them and I wanted to know if they could all be the same gauge wire?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


All of this applies to my AX850, not sure about others PSU cables:

I had some cables that had two wires spliced into one end, and they had one thicker and one thinner wire. To be safe, I just put back each wire exactly where it came from.


----------



## Skiivari

Thanks! I have slipped the sleeving out of the heatshrink once when the shrink was still hot. I have been tugging these cables pretty hard and they haven't come off yet, so I'll just hope for the best


----------



## goodtobeking

Anyone know what Akasa uses to sleeve their Viper/Apache fans?? It feels really high quality, and almost rubbery feeling not plasticy. If I cant get what they used, I am going to end up using paracord. Which I like also.


----------



## Grimloque

Just bought a FTW PC sample pack. Can't wait to get it cause I want to order but can't decide what color to get.

Just wish I lived in the US so it would get here faster.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grimloque;14436992*
> Just bought a FTW PC sample pack. Can't wait to get it cause I want to order but can't decide what color to get.
> 
> Just wish I lived in the US so it would get here faster.


I bought one last week. And I am very happy so far. I really like the paracord, the color/look/feel is great. I already sleeved 2 wires with the white/silver paracord. Only 1 foot sections though.

Now I wanna sample some of that MDPC sleeving. Still wanna know what sleeving Akasa uses on their fans, as I like it the most so far.


----------



## Grimloque

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking;14437052*
> I bought one last week. And I am very happy so far. I really like the paracord, the color/look/feel is great. I already sleeved 2 wires with the white/silver paracord. Only 1 foot sections though.
> 
> Now I wanna sample some of that MDPC sleeving. Still wanna know what sleeving Akasa uses on their fans, as I like it the most so far.


Also thinking of going for the paracord. Purely cause there's more colors. Thinking of neon green/white/yellow combo, but I want to see the colors for myself.

Can't decide which color combo to take. Already have some UV yellow Vantec sleeving that I got locally here.


----------



## LeBreadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;14412636*
> Almost done, FTW sleeve, very good quality
> 
> Sorry for bad quality


Those are nice colors man. I wanted to know how black blue white would look in a case. Guess i got my answer


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Made a fan extension cable the other day. Turned out quite nice I reckon


----------



## shnur

That is so perfect....
The way you got the heatshrink over the fan connector....














... can't decide!!!!!!!!


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;14442958*
> Made a fan extension cable the other day. Turned out quite nice I reckon


Beautiful.







I have a few extension cables I'd love to do that to.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Pliers work a treat







I used the heatshrink from Genuinedealz on eBay for those as it has a slightly larger diameter than MDPC and the adhesive lining is ideal since I have to be relatively forceful trying to unplug them from my fan controller haha.


----------



## solsamurai

Picks like that make me wish I had the extra cash to start sleeving! Lol, someday...


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Made a fan extension cable the other day. Turned out quite nice I reckon










It did turn out nice, what sleeving is that??

I did the same thing the other day when I got my FTW PC sleeving sample pack. My first sleeving job was a "y" fan splitter. I sleeved the two parts by their selves, then I took a larger piece of heatshrink(I had from an unused cheap sleeving pack) and went over the connector and around where the ends came out.

I was mighty impressed with my job, other than the lighter turning the white heatshrink black a little. What do you guys use to shrink the heat shrink.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

It's black Clean Cut from furryletters on eBay.

Solsamurai, it's not very expensive at all if you buy black sleeve from furryletters and the heatshrink from Genuinedealz on eBay. Cost me about $30NZ for enough black sleeve to sleeve all the visible cables and heatshrink







I did spend lots buying coloured sleeve, heatshrink, tools and cable management stuff from Nils though. It's hard to not spend lots of money on all his nice stuff







:


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


It's black Clean Cut from furryletters on eBay.

Solsamurai, it's not very expensive at all if you buy black sleeve from furryletters and the heatshrink from Genuinedealz on eBay. Cost me about $30NZ for enough black sleeve to sleeve all the visible cables and heatshrink







I did spend lots buying coloured sleeve, heatshrink, tools and cable management stuff from Nils though. It's hard to not spend lots of money on all his nice stuff







:


He does have some pretty awesome stuff.







I'm ok with black as most of the cables I'd sleeve are behind the m/b. Just to give it an overall better look. Especially those ugly front panel LED/Pwr cables!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solsamurai*


He does have some pretty awesome stuff.







I'm ok with black as most of the cables I'd sleeve are behind the m/b. Just to give it an overall better look. Especially those ugly front panel LED/Pwr cables!










Haha totally. They were the first thing I sleeved







I've only sleeved the visible parts of all my cables with single sleeves. I got larger diameter sleeve from Nils so I can sleeve the stuff behind the mobo tray in bigger bunches. Keeps it tidier imo.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Haha totally. They were the first thing I sleeved







I've only sleeved the visible parts of all my cables with single sleeves. *I got larger diameter sleeve from Nils so I can sleeve the stuff behind the mobo tray in bigger bunches. Keeps it tidier imo.*


Not a bad idea.


----------



## SimpleTech

Does anyone have or know what the pinout (from the PSU) of the 24-pin ATX connector on the Corsair AX750/850? My stupid ass got a few wires mixed up (measured with my multimeter) and I just want to make sure I got the rest okay.

Might contact Corsair technical support.

EDIT: Never mind, found it.


----------



## Lutro0

Needs Moar Pics!


----------



## mortimersnerd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking;14443075*
> It did turn out nice, what sleeving is that??
> 
> I did the same thing the other day when I got my FTW PC sleeving sample pack. My first sleeving job was a "y" fan splitter. I sleeved the two parts by their selves, then I took a larger piece of heatshrink(I had from an unused cheap sleeving pack) and went over the connector and around where the ends came out.
> 
> I was mighty impressed with my job, other than the lighter turning the white heatshrink black a little. What do you guys use to shrink the heat shrink.


We use a heat gun when working with white or colored heatshrink to prevent discoloration due to the smoke of a lighter or torch. You might be able to get away with using a hair dryer but it would take a while.


----------



## Nova.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;14447420*
> Needs Moar Pics!


----------



## Grimloque

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;14447420*
> Needs Moar Pics!


That's going to look real perdy

Can't wait for my sample pack to decide which colors to take.


----------



## Skiivari

You might have jsut overheated the heatshrink. It is plastic after all and it will melt


----------



## DEEBS808

Do you need these round things on your six/eight pin connector?Did a little sleeving yesterday and took mines off.I have a Corsair ax 1200.Thanks


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DEEBS808;14449611*
> Do you need these round things on your six/eight pin connector?Did a little sleeving yesterday and took mines off.I have a Corsair ax 1200.Thanks


They are ferrite beads, they cut down on EMI and sometimes can help with GPU Whine (at least, some companies claim that.)

You don't need them.


----------



## DEEBS808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot;14449638*
> They are ferrite beads, they cut down on EMI and sometimes can help with GPU Whine (at least, some companies claim that.)
> 
> You don't need them.


Cool.Thanks.I just got my order of paracord from FTW and just couldn't help myself and decided to start sleeving even though I don't have my black in yet.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mortimersnerd*


We use a heat gun when working with white or colored heatshrink to prevent discoloration due to the smoke of a lighter or torch. You might be able to get away with using a hair dryer but it would take a while.


A butane lighter would do the trick too. Not sure about prices over there, but they're certainly cheaper to buy than a heat gun in NZ.


----------



## RazorJaws

where do you get sample packs from


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RazorJaws*


where do you get sample packs from


MDPC doesn't sell sample packs. Only FTW PC Does.


----------



## mortimersnerd

Mmmmm green.

















Just a PET sample, getting woven up in 1/8" and SATA FTW Sleeve shortly.


----------



## Smo




----------



## Badwrench

Just did a couple Xigmatek fans with some FTWpc orange sleeve:










Note: the picture doesn't represent the color very well, so I also took one without the flash:










Color looks great (color is somewhere between my two pics) and quality is excellent.


----------



## moop

Smo,

Did you use NZXT sleeved extensions and alternate black and white?


----------



## Infrabasse

Please learn to not quote multiple pics.


----------



## shnur




----------



## Smo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *moop*


Smo,

Did you use NZXT sleeved extensions and alternate black and white?


Rumbled!

Haha, well spotted - that's exactly what I did.

I wondered if someone would catch me out! +Rep.


----------



## Lutro0

Turned out ok, a wire needs to be fixed as they like to use different sizes of wire... -shakes head- 
A little cleaning up and it will be onward to the rest of them.


----------



## Smo

Looks awesome dude.


----------



## Vestito

My first sleeving project ever! Thank you everyone at FTW PC your sleeving product is great, I really appreciate the help and advise, Corsair pins are really really tough to get out. I managed to do it after nearly ripping off a nail and countless cuts. The heat shrink isn't too even but for a first attempt I'm very satisfied. For anyone on the edge, the experience is great and the finished product is something to be proud of do it!!


----------



## jach11

i wanted to sleeve my HX750. I don't have any problems with any other cables other than the sata and hardwired cables.


----------



## mortimersnerd

Great work Vestito!


----------



## theturbofd

Is there a way to put the sleeve inside the connector instead of using heatshrink? I seen a member here who did it but idk how lol


----------



## shnur

Good question, it's very hard as far as I've seen myself with me recent sleeving, but I think it might be possible


----------



## theturbofd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*


Good question, it's very hard as far as I've seen myself with me recent sleeving, but I think it might be possible










Someone here did it with orange sleeves


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theturbofd*


Is there a way to put the sleeve inside the connector instead of using heatshrink? I seen a member here who did it but idk how lol



Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*


Good question, it's very hard as far as I've seen myself with me recent sleeving, but I think it might be possible











Quote:



Originally Posted by *theturbofd*


Someone here did it with orange sleeves










Its done by more or less melting the sleeve just right so that it fits inside. Some sleeveing is easier than others due to the different sizes.


----------



## MooCwzRck

Hell yeah, sleeving just came in, right in time before I moved out of my apartment and schools out for a couple weeks! I'll start working on it this week when I have a couple days off, cant wait!


----------



## Ragsters

Latest project. Sorry about the cell phone picture quality. I was too lazy to use me SLR.


----------



## Smo

Looks great dude, nice work.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smo*


Looks great dude, nice work.


Thanks!


----------



## FEAR.

How do you guys get heatshrink over the 3 pin fan connector, I my shrink keeps ripping.


----------



## jach11

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FEAR.*


How do you guys get heatshrink over the 3 pin fan connector, I my shrink keeps ripping.










http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/hea...sata-black.htm


----------



## FEAR.

Of course I have to be using the wrong heatshrink.


----------



## jach11

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FEAR.*


Of course I have to be using the wrong heatshrink.










how much heat-shrink did you go through







?


----------



## FEAR.

Not much luckily, only about 6 cm. Still got another 2 and a half meters of the small stuff. Down to my last 20cm of sata shrink though







. The one kit (+10m sleeve and 1m shrink) goes quite a way, onto my second system now.


----------



## SmasherBasher

just stretch it with a pair of needle nose pliers.





































Then it will go right over. I can expand our FTW PC heat shrink to around 3-4 times its original size. Then when you put it over the connector, as soon as you heat it it goes right back to its original shape and shrinks correctly.

Hope that helps.


----------



## FEAR.

I'm using MDPC, it didn't stretch anything like that!


----------



## theturbofd

Need to get more heatshrink


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nafljhy*


thanks but i sleeved those for a friend i never had a picture of them under UV light. sorry. about that.










I know that's a old post but i do have superhero sleeves and they look awesome in the background with uv reactive cold cathodes. However if you put it close to the window away from the cathode it looks orange. I wonder why lol.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vdn20*


Thanks for the pictures. I'll just get to the point and ask the question I had, did you have to separate the wires on the connectors and sleeve each wire individually? Thanks


Dude i know those sleeves.. i heard they glow MAD with UV cold cathodes.


----------



## shnur

So I've got some progress with my sleeving; tried applying the perfect sleeving technique; somehow my heatshrink at the connector always gets out... grrr annoying

On the bright side, my girlfriend and I decided to buy a good camera.





























24 pins to go & I'm done! It wont fit in the hole for the standard hole for the PSU though :S


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*


So I've got some progress with my sleeving; tried applying the perfect sleeving technique; somehow my heatshrink at the connector always gets out... grrr annoying


Try using your lighter to melt the sleeve a little more on the tips. This will create something more for the heatshrink to grip.


----------



## shnur

Humm... hard to imagine, it becomes all wooshy and hard to put in (as in everything gets tangled up).

I'll attempt tomorrow; see what can be done


----------



## jach11

anyone know how to get the stupid sata connector top off? I feel like its gonna snap in half if i try to pull any harder. My psu is the HX750.


----------



## shnur

Make it snap








I took off mine on the Corsair tx750, OCZ 400W stealth xtream and the xfx 750 xxx pro


----------



## jach11

i dont want to have to order new tops for it.


----------



## shnur

Sorry, I didn't meant to break it, but it should kind of pop/snap and get off normally.


----------



## jach11

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*


Sorry, I didn't meant to break it, but it should kind of pop/snap and get off normally.


no i mean like its starts to crack literally the plastic is breaking and cracking when i pull... i guess tomorrow i will try again and if it doesn't work ill just snap them... and order new ones


----------



## shnur

Hum, let me take a picture on how I do it; which part are you almost breaking? the T ones of the ones at the end?


----------



## jach11

The t's and its like slowly bending in the middle only the sides are coming out.


----------



## shnur

That's how I do it:








Pop one side and it goes off:








I dont have any other retainers...


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*


So I've got some progress with my sleeving; tried applying the perfect sleeving technique; somehow my heatshrink at the connector always gets out... grrr annoying


Looks like your heatshrink isn't really adapted to the sleeve you're using.
We can see on your pics that it's not snug on the sleeve, it doesn't shrink enough or you didn't shrink it enough.


----------



## shnur

I'm using the small heatshrink from MDPC and sleeving from MDPC, so I doubt it's the actual heatshrink/sleeve combo that is the issue, maybe I'm not leaving the lighter long enough? Although longer it would start burning


----------



## Infrabasse

Just go slow and all around. If you're using mdpc heatshrink you should be able to distinguish the weave of the sleeve through the heatshrink.


----------



## shnur

Hum.. I'll see what I'm doing wrong, I went through so much heatshrink lol, re-learning everything again


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jach11*


no i mean like its starts to crack literally the plastic is breaking and cracking when i pull... i guess tomorrow i will try again and if it doesn't work ill just snap them... and order new ones










If its cracking, it must be some pretty poor quality plastic. Took a few seconds to pop them off my Silverstone unit.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*


So I've got some progress with my sleeving; tried applying the perfect sleeving technique; somehow my heatshrink at the connector always gets out... grrr annoying

On the bright side, my girlfriend and I decided to buy a good camera.





























24 pins to go & I'm done! It wont fit in the hole for the standard hole for the PSU though :S


Try melting a bit more, when I was sleeving if I didn't melt the end enough it would end up doing what yours did.


----------



## DEEBS808

A little of my sleeving.


----------



## shnur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;14513458*
> Try melting a bit more, when I was sleeving if I didn't melt the end enough it would end up doing what yours did.


I think that is actually the problem, I stopped melting them because my girlfriend told me it wasn't pretty... I think I'll start doing that again and it'll be successful! =D


----------



## Infrabasse

Guys, there is no melting taking place. Just shrinking. If it melts, you've overdone it.


----------



## shnur

The sleeve itself, not the heatshrink.


----------



## Infrabasse

my bad


----------



## shnur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;14519753*
> my bad


----------



## jach11

oh i figured out how to get the sata top off. There are 6 little snaps clips on each side instead of 2 snap on clips. I had to undo each one







. Then i had to try to take it off as fast as possible or else it would snap back in. Looks like this sleeving job will take a while


----------



## shnur

Ouch... I think I had those on my OCZ power supply.


----------



## jach11

what sucks is if i go to slow the clips will pop back in but if i go to fast the clips will break


----------



## SmasherBasher

Made a few extensions today.


----------



## moop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;14527759*
> Made a few extensions today.


Is that the right sized sleeving? It looks like it's bulging to me


----------



## SmasherBasher

It's the only size we carry. That was made earlier today.

Sleeving at 1:30 AM? Absolutely.










Sleeving tomorrow?


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jach11;14526491*
> what sucks is if i go to slow the clips will pop back in but if i go to fast the clips will break


Can't you find/make a tool that'll hold all the clips as you work the cover off the connector?
File down or dremel down a piece of scrap metal, idk. Got pics?


----------



## Winrahr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*


It's the only size we carry. That was made earlier today.

Sleeving at 1:30 AM? Absolutely.










Sleeving tomorrow?










Hey that extension is for me







Is it just the lighting that makes the blue look really dark?


----------



## Badwrench

Messin' around a bit


----------



## SmasherBasher

That looks slick.


----------



## Lutro0

Moar Pics. =)


----------



## MooCwzRck

Took these pictures with my iphone with horrible lighting, so please forgive the quality!

The sleeving likes to show up as a more olive or lime green here, but its a much greener green irl.

Its pretty much mdpc-x's green and black.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;14555657*
> Moar Pics. =)


Great job bud!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


Great job bud!


Thanks man!




























PSU Done!


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Nice combo Lutro0, almost the same as mine for the 24 pin except I used 1 red and 1 white.


----------



## Farmer Boe

Very nice!!!! ^^^^^ I appreciate your attention to detail.


----------



## shnur

So sexy


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*


Nice combo Lutro0, almost the same as mine for the 24 pin except I used 1 red and 1 white.


Nice! do you have a link to it?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe*


Very nice!!!! ^^^^^ I appreciate your attention to detail.


Thanks bud!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*


So sexy


----------



## goodtobeking

Anyone have some MDPC sleeving they would like to part with?? I am not wanting much, just a small section or two before I make my order for some sleeving. I got the sleeving sample pack from FTWPC. And I dig the Paracord, but I hear a lot of talk about MDPC's sleeving. And would like to check it out without having to buy a bunch.

I would prefer black, titanium, or blue. But would be willing to take anything I can get. I can paypal a couple bucks to anyone willing to snail mail me out some. Thanks

BTW great job Lutr0 That looks amazing.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;14574755*
> Nice! do you have a link to it?


Just finished making the wires yesterday, still need to finish the 8-pin and 2 6-pins and then comes sleeving :S


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking;14574950*
> Anyone have some MDPC sleeving they would like to part with?? I am not wanting much, just a small section or two before I make my order for some sleeving. I got the sleeving sample pack from FTWPC. And I dig the Paracord, but I hear a lot of talk about MDPC's sleeving. And would like to check it out without having to buy a bunch.
> 
> I would prefer black, titanium, or blue. But would be willing to take anything I can get. I can paypal a couple bucks to anyone willing to snail mail me out some. Thanks
> 
> BTW great job Lutr0 That looks amazing.


Thanks man, Shoot me a PM about the sleeveing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan;14575002*
> Just finished making the wires yesterday, still need to finish the 8-pin and 2 6-pins and then comes sleeving :S


Nice. Make sure to take pics!


----------



## moop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking;14574950*
> Anyone have some MDPC sleeving they would like to part with?? I am not wanting much, just a small section or two before I make my order for some sleeving. I got the sleeving sample pack from FTWPC. And I dig the Paracord, but I hear a lot of talk about MDPC's sleeving. And would like to check it out without having to buy a bunch.
> 
> I would prefer black, titanium, or blue. But would be willing to take anything I can get. I can paypal a couple bucks to anyone willing to snail mail me out some. Thanks
> 
> BTW great job Lutr0 That looks amazing.


If you're willing to pay the premium for MDPC-X sleeving, I assure you its worth it. FTWPC is a good alternative to those who don't want to spend the money on MDPC-X, but those who tell you that they are equal are wrong. MDPC-X definitely is better, but it also costs more.

Basically what I'm trying to say is, if you think you're willing to dish the money for MDPC-X, then you probably won't need a sample to convince you.


----------



## Xien16

This one is more than two years old now...









And yes, it is MDPC-X small sleeve


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xien16;14577499*
> -img snip-
> 
> This one is more than two years old now...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, it is MDPC-X small sleeve


Looken good Xien.


----------



## shnur

I was always impressed by that picture, couldn't (and still can't) wrap my head around how you did it...


----------



## SmasherBasher

It's easy. Cut the connector off, sleeve the wire and put a new connector on.

Or

Cut the wire, sleeve it and splice it back together.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur;14579064*
> I was always impressed by that picture, couldn't (and still can't) wrap my head around how you did it...


I made a guide a while back. Located HERE


----------



## Socom

So this is my first time sleeving. What do you all think? Using FTWPC Black, Red, and Electric Blue sleeving.


----------



## moop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Socom;14586253*
> So this is my first time sleeving. What do you all think? Using FTWPC Black, Red, and Electric Blue sleeving.


I personally would cut the heat shrink a lot shorter, and try to get the sleeving right up against the connector housing. Definitely not bad for a first try though!


----------



## Xien16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;14582410*
> I made a guide a while back. Located HERE


The guide is nice but why did you cut off both ends in part one?
Or did you just like to have these ... strange looking and big connectors?

And the second way is not allowed btw







(soldering on a powe supply)
I know there will never happen anything and I did this, too but the electrician laws forbid it


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xien16;14587135*
> The guide is nice but why did you cut off both ends in part one?
> Or did you just like to have these ... strange looking and big connectors?
> 
> And the second way is not allowed btw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (soldering on a powe supply)
> I know there will never happen anything and I did this, too but the electrician laws forbid it


LOL, yes it was more of a guide to show how to do both ends, one end could have been done just as easy. I also used that cord in the Katharos Mod as it accented the system nicely.

...and about the electrician laws... I wont tell anyone if you dont.


----------



## Lutro0

Dont die thread.... dont die.. -feeds pics-


----------



## MooCwzRck

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Socom*


So this is my first time sleeving. What do you all think? Using FTWPC Black, Red, and Electric Blue sleeving.











The color scheme makes it look like a heaven and hell theme...epic combination, I might have to steal that for a future case!


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;14692821*
> Dont die thread.... dont die.. -feeds pics-


I could get a picture of the leash I made for my dog out of Clean Cut


----------



## FEAR.




----------



## solsamurai

Those colors look great together!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MijnWraak;14695177*
> I could get a picture of the leash I made for my dog out of Clean Cut


----------



## Nynn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;14692821*
> Dont die thread.... dont die.. -feeds pics-


What is that thing?


----------



## Infrabasse

A power bus. It's a lot neater than a bunch of Y adapters ...


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;14698090*
> A power bus. It's a lot neater than a bunch of Y adapters ...


Yup.

At first I was like.










Then I was like.










Looking back on it now, it could have been done much cleaner and easier. But oh well, there is always next time.


----------



## skaboy607

My first sleeving attempt.


----------



## Forsaken_id

I did some sleeving. . .of tools with random spare sleeving pieces.









Left to right: Probe with 1/8th Cleancut, same (protective cap on) with 1/4" Cleancut, Triangular mini file with 1/8" Cleancut, Large pointy thing with 1/4" Ogre PET, and a round mini file with 1/4" PET


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id;14707181*
> I did some sleeving. . .of tools with random spare sleeving pieces.
> 
> -img snip-
> Left to right: Probe with 1/8th Cleancut, same (protective cap on) with 1/4" Cleancut, Triangular mini file with 1/8" Cleancut, Large pointy thing with 1/4" Ogre PET, and a round mini file with 1/4" PET


LOL, I sleeved a pen somewhere... Dont know what I ever did with it. Good times...


----------



## Mugen87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;14699289*
> Yup.
> 
> At first I was like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I was like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking back on it now, it could have been done much cleaner and easier. But oh well, there is always next time.


That looks hella pro. IMO couldnt be cleaner, very nice.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mugen87*


That looks hella pro. IMO couldnt be cleaner, very nice.


Thanks buddy, sleeveing is one of those things that makes you always want to obtain better results. But thatâ€™s the fun part of it, trying to figure out ways and methods with yield the best results in a consistent manner.

But when you sit back and look at your work and know there wasnâ€™t anything you could have done to make it look any better, that is the ultimate goal.

I hope that I never fully reach that point, because the pursuit of perfection is what makes it all interesting.


----------



## skaboy607

Probably a stupid question but is the heatshrink suppose to 'stick' to the wire or is meant shrink to it but be able to slide up and down?


----------



## Frankzro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *da tick 07*


mdpc-x. only the best


























I WANT! O_O

I will buy some from you!!

:O~ PM me


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skaboy607*


Probably a stupid question but is the heatshrink suppose to 'stick' to the wire or is meant shrink to it but be able to slide up and down?


Not a dumb question at all bud. You want to shrink the HS in a spot where it will grab onto the wire and secure the sleeveing into place and not move.









Here is a good example of what I mean, the HS is grabbing onto the pin and wire as well as the sleeve, and once its inserted into the connector it will hold everything in place.

There is also a awesome guide by Nils with picture examples in the OP of this thread. I suggest you give it a look.


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Not a dumb question at all bud. You want to shrink the HS in a spot where it will grab onto the wire and secure the sleeveing into place and not move.









Here is a good example of what I mean, the HS is grabbing onto the pin and wire as well as the sleeve, and once its inserted into the connector it will hold everything in place.

There is also a awesome guide by Nils with picture examples in the OP of this thread. I suggest you give it a look.


Ah right, that is actually really helpful! And I kinda wished I read it before I sleeved my 24 pin atx connector. Can I be bothered to do it again, lol, I have loads of shrink left but I'm not sure my fingers can take getting the pins out again.

What crimp tool is needed to crimp the atx pins, I broke 2.


----------



## DEEBS808

^^^FTW PC has them or also Frozencpu.Good luck.I too first started sleeving my PSU but thought about looking how to do it.Glad I looked it up on here and it surely helped out.Turned out pretty good for my first time.GOOD LUCK.


----------



## Nynn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;14710886*


Do you need to cut the Sata cable to sleeve it? Or is the sleeving wide enough to fit over the connector?


----------



## goodtobeking

How do you remove the male pins from fan cables?? I have an Akasa PWM splitter and I was wanting to sleeve it for practice. I did the female fan connector, but I cant get the male pins to budge. And I already ripped one wire from the pin out of frustration.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nynn;14714003*
> Do you need to cut the Sata cable to sleeve it? Or is the sleeving wide enough to fit over the connector?


No, the sata sleeve will fit over it just fine, but you will have to strech the sleeve tight to get it to look nice.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking;14714606*
> How do you remove the male pins from fan cables?? I have an Akasa PWM splitter and I was wanting to sleeve it for practice. I did the female fan connector, but I cant get the male pins to budge. And I already ripped one wire from the pin out of frustration.


The male pins have one prong that holds it in.









If you look at the pins you can see the one prong on the top of the pin, you need to press that in with either a paperclip or something of that size.









When you look into it you should see the small notch in the plastic where you should be able to put your tool and bend the holding prong down. Once that prong is down it should come out with ease.
Hope that helps.


----------



## aesthetics1

I had a question posted here:

http://www.overclock.net/power-supplies/1101296-quick-sleeving-cable-question.html

But I figure it might just be better to ask here.

Can I completely remove cables that aren't plugged into anything on the other side? or will this cause a problem? Does anyone understand what I'm asking?

EDIT: added an image for more clarity. I want to remove the black and yellow cables (pop the wires out and leave them out).

Anyone?


----------



## Xien16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nynn;14714003*
> Do you need to cut the Sata cable to sleeve it? Or is the sleeving wide enough to fit over the connector?


As Lutro0 said you don't have to but sometimes it's a good idea to do it to get a cable with the perfect fit


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xien16;14717110*
> As Lutro0 said you don't have to but sometimes it's a good idea to do it to get a cable with the perfect fit


I'm very new to sleeving and was wondering how easy is it to cut a sata cable and what kind of tool I would need? Lutro0 and Xien16 you guys always post great stuff that is very inspiring!


----------



## Necrodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aesthetics1;14716461*
> I had a question posted here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/power-supplies/1101296-quick-sleeving-cable-question.html
> 
> But I figure it might just be better to ask here.
> 
> Can I completely remove cables that aren't plugged into anything on the other side? or will this cause a problem? Does anyone understand what I'm asking?
> 
> EDIT: added an image for more clarity. I want to remove the black and yellow cables (pop the wires out and leave them out).
> 
> Anyone?


Yeah you'll be fine, from the looks of it that is an 8 pin CPU power cable with an attached 4 pin. If you don't plan on using the 4 pin go ahead and cut them off.

I did.


----------



## Xien16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai;14717164*
> I'm very new to sleeving and was wondering how easy is it to cut a sata cable and what kind of tool I would need? Lutro0 and Xien16 you guys always post great stuff that is very inspiring!


You might not understand a word but here is my tutorial how to shorten sata data-cables:
http://xien16.com/html/sata_datenkabel.html

I prefer version 2








There you don't have any different thickness on the cable and you still have all the aluminum shield from one to the other end of the cable


----------



## solsamurai

Thanks for the link.








That's German, right? I used to know a little several years ago. Google translator here I come!


----------



## aesthetics1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Necrodox;14717339*
> Yeah you'll be fine, from the looks of it that is an 8 pin CPU power cable with an attached 4 pin. If you don't plan on using the 4 pin go ahead and cut them off.
> 
> I did.


Can anyone else confirm? Again I'm not planning to 'cut' the wires, but remove them from the 8 pin side completely. 4 pins on the PSU side will be empty.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aesthetics1*


Can anyone else confirm? Again I'm not planning to 'cut' the wires, but remove them from the 8 pin side completely. 4 pins on the PSU side will be empty.


Yea, you are fine to remove the extra pins/cables just dont move them around unless you know and understand the voltages for the wires. I end up doing the same thing with my 6+2 PCIE wires as well as others. And by the looks of it you are using an OCZ PSU? which are the same PSUs that I normally use.


----------



## aesthetics1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Yea, you are fine to remove the extra pins/cables just dont move them around unless you know and understand the voltages for the wires. I end up doing the same thing with my 6+2 PCIE wires as well as others. And by the looks of it you are using an OCZ PSU? which are the same PSUs that I normally use.


It's actually a seasonic, but they may be the OEM for your OCZ? Seasonic makes a lot of PSUs for different companies - Antec, Corsair, some others.

So I'll actually have cables missing and there shouldn't be a problem? Thanks for your input.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aesthetics1*


It's actually a seasonic, but they may be the OEM for your OCZ? Seasonic makes a lot of PSUs for different companies - Antec, Corsair, some others.

So I'll actually have cables missing and there shouldn't be a problem? Thanks for your input.


Nope should not be a problem, I remove the extra 4 pin from most of mine as well. And ahhh, the oem sleeving looked about the same.


----------



## aesthetics1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Nope should not be a problem, I remove the extra 4 pin from most of mine as well. And ahhh, the oem sleeving looked about the same.










Haha, maybe they all use the same sleeving, my old antec tpq-850 had it also!...

Thanks for the quick response. I'll post pictures of it when it's completely finished. Will look a lot cleaner without un-needed cables hanging around.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aesthetics1*


Haha, maybe they all use the same sleeving, my old antec tpq-850 had it also!...

Thanks for the quick response. I'll post pictures of it when it's completely finished. Will look a lot cleaner without un-needed cables hanging around.


Looking forward to seeing them =D


----------



## aesthetics1

Nice USB sleeve - is that SATA sleeve re-purposed?







.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aesthetics1;14723418*
> Nice USB sleeve - is that SATA sleeve re-purposed?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Sure is, but you have to pull it super tight to get it to look right. And the HS is streched to the max to get it to fit, but it does fit.


----------



## Tator Tot

Just to clear the question:

OCZ ModXStream Pro is Sirfa

The Corsair AX Line (slide the AX1200) is Seasonic.


----------



## aesthetics1

Thanks for clearing that up Tator.


----------



## slowdown

Been trying to sleeve my. 24 pin cable from my ocz zx 1000 watt psu but it seems ocz made the modular cables very difficult to work with, every single cable criss crosses over the other and don't match up at the ends, I'm really regretting buying this almost 200 dollar psu. The only thing I could is repin inside the psu but I'm not gonna take the risk. I think I'm out of options looks like my plans for nice cable management went up in smoke.
What were you thinking OCZ?

Sent from my MB200 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slowdown;14733678*
> Been trying to sleeve my. 24 pin cable from my ocz zx 1000 watt psu but it seems ocz made the modular cables very difficult to work with, every single cable criss crosses over the other and don't match up at the ends, I'm really regretting buying this almost 200 dollar psu. The only thing I could is repin inside the psu but I'm not gonna take the risk. I think I'm out of options looks like my plans for nice cable management went up in smoke.
> What were you thinking OCZ?
> 
> Sent from my MB200 using Tapatalk


Just do one wire at a time.


----------



## slowdown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;14733749*
> Just do one wire at a time.


Will have to give it a try, I geuss the wires don't need to be all in a neat row.
Does anyone have a picture of the modular 24 pin from the ocz zx series of power supply's sleeved?
Thanks in advance.

Sent from my MB200 using Tapatalk


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slowdown;14734718*
> Will have to give it a try, I geuss the wires don't need to be all in a neat row.
> Does anyone have a picture of the modular 24 pin from the ocz zx series of power supply's sleeved?
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Sent from my MB200 using Tapatalk


There is the repin route that you mentioned before but you would still need to clean up the double wires and such, or you could make some small extensions, so that the cables that are seen are the nice 1 to 1 cables. There is a few modular power supplies I know of that have the crazy wiring style and are never fun to work with. Follow what ragsters said, do one wire at a time being mindful of organizing them from whichever side you started on, also the double wires and such can be cleaned up with some planning and soldering. If after all of that you still dont like the look, try some extensions.


----------



## slowdown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;14736593*
> There is the repin route that you mentioned before but you would still need to clean up the double wires and such, or you could make some small extensions, so that the cables that are seen are the nice 1 to 1 cables. There is a few modular power supplies I know of that have the crazy wiring style and are never fun to work with. Follow what ragsters said, do one wire at a time being mindful of organizing them from whichever side you started on, also the double wires and such can be cleaned up with some planning and soldering. If after all of that you still dont like the look, try some extensions.


had a good look at the 24 pin cable tonight and I should be able to clean it up a bit. thanks for the help.


----------



## Spicy61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl;13115457*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its that green... however under other light it looks exactly as he sells it..


The combat green on the mdpc site looks totally different than what it looks like in real life (as several people have mentioned on this thread). A shame, the swampy green color featured on the website is such an awesome color.. unfortunately the picture on the official website is done under dark conditions and it really misrepresents what the buyer is purchasing.


----------



## Escatore

I didn't read through the entire thread, so this may have been asked before, but can somebody answer a quick question for me?

The plastic sleeving that came with my AX750 is very stiff, and doesn't allow a lot of movement - all of the component wires of the 24-pin main cord are inside one giant sleeve. If I remove the single, giant, plastic sleeving and put each of the 24 cords in its own sleeve, will that increase the flexibility of the cord? I want to do a little cable management, but with my 24-pin as stiff as it is, I can't really move it.

Thanks!


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spicy61;14746896*
> The combat green on the mdpc site looks totally different than what it looks like in real life (as several people have mentioned on this thread). A shame, the swampy green color featured on the website is such an awesome color.. unfortunately the picture on the official website is done under dark conditions and it really misrepresents what the buyer is purchasing.


Nils photographs all of his sleeve under 5500K lighting, equivalent to the lighting on an overcast day. Tungsten lighting and even sunshine will of course give the sleeve a different colour. It's not mis-representing the product as such, just showing the intended colour.

Straight from the website:
"The photos were taken under neutral light conditions at 5500K (covered sky = true color reproduction) and represent the true color shade of the sleeve. Under different light temperatures, the color shade can be very different - that's the nature of color. This is very important to know if you choose a colored sleeve. If you like the color on the photos, you will see the same color shade when you look at the sleeve under 5500K conditions (covered sky)."

Colours do and always will change under different temperature lights. Just something to bear in mind. All the sleeve he sells look different under various temperatures of light.


----------



## Dilyn

Hey guys...
Remember that whole 'sleeving project' I was going to embark on?
That never took off?

It's back on.
This time, since I can't seem to do it right, I'm leaving it in the hands of a more qualified friend (he's done tons of sleeving before, among other amazing computer related things).
And I'll try to take some nice pictures of when it's finished








I'm buying a camera (Canon EOS Rebel t3, more specifically) and while he's working on it I'm going to be practicing.
So hopefully it will look great. I can't wait!

I think it'll be an excellent way to start of my Sandy Goodness build.


----------



## FEAR.




----------



## moop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Escatore;14747058*
> I didn't read through the entire thread, so this may have been asked before, but can somebody answer a quick question for me?
> 
> The plastic sleeving that came with my AX750 is very stiff, and doesn't allow a lot of movement - all of the component wires of the 24-pin main cord are inside one giant sleeve. If I remove the single, giant, plastic sleeving and put each of the 24 cords in its own sleeve, will that increase the flexibility of the cord? I want to do a little cable management, but with my 24-pin as stiff as it is, I can't really move it.
> 
> Thanks!


Individually sleeving should increase the flexibility of the cable. I have an AX850, but the first thing i did when I got it was cut off the original sleeve so I don't remember exactly what it felt like as one jumbo sleeve. Don't expect incredible flexibility though, just enough to work with.


----------



## Spicy61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;14747215*
> Nils photographs all of his sleeve under 5500K lighting, equivalent to the lighting on an overcast day. Tungsten lighting and even sunshine will of course give the sleeve a different colour. It's not mis-representing the product as such, just showing the intended colour.
> 
> Straight from the website:
> "The photos were taken under neutral light conditions at 5500K (covered sky = true color reproduction) and represent the true color shade of the sleeve. Under different light temperatures, the color shade can be very different - that's the nature of color. This is very important to know if you choose a colored sleeve. If you like the color on the photos, you will see the same color shade when you look at the sleeve under 5500K conditions (covered sky)."
> 
> Colours do and always will change under different temperature lights. Just something to bear in mind. All the sleeve he sells look different under various temperatures of light.


Well that's good that he put the disclaimer there. When looking at the sleeve page, however (the page that displays the product), that info is nowhere to be found. Please correct me if I am wrong, I am referring to the product page: http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve.htm.

But to me it's not about the camera and lighting issue. The issue is that when a customer ordered combat green based on the picture on the website (the basis of what the item looks like), he/she was not satisfied upon receipt of the item. I have heard this here in this enormous thread, and I have heard it elsewhere on other forums. I looked at every single picture in this thread for one reason: to investigate the combat green color since I am considering getting the Sabertooth 990FX mobo. To me, when customers say that when they see the color with their own eyes, that they are unsatisfied... that's telling me something. Nothing against you or MDPC, I am just saying my 2cents.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Escatore;14747058*
> I didn't read through the entire thread, so this may have been asked before, but can somebody answer a quick question for me?
> 
> The plastic sleeving that came with my AX750 is very stiff, and doesn't allow a lot of movement - all of the component wires of the 24-pin main cord are inside one giant sleeve. If I remove the single, giant, plastic sleeving and put each of the 24 cords in its own sleeve, will that increase the flexibility of the cord? I want to do a little cable management, but with my 24-pin as stiff as it is, I can't really move it.
> 
> Thanks!


Yea, you should be able to move it alot better once its single sleeved. And it should hold form alot better as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dilyn;14747250*
> Hey guys...
> Remember that whole 'sleeving project' I was going to embark on?
> That never took off?
> 
> It's back on.
> This time, since I can't seem to do it right, I'm leaving it in the hands of a more qualified friend (he's done tons of sleeving before, among other amazing computer related things).
> And I'll try to take some nice pictures of when it's finished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm buying a camera (Canon EOS Rebel t3, more specifically) and while he's working on it I'm going to be practicing.
> So hopefully it will look great. I can't wait!
> 
> I think it'll be an excellent way to start of my Sandy Goodness build.


 I may have missed the original thread on this, what are you planning to do bud?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FEAR.;14747258*
> -img snip-


I love that color combo! Good job man!


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;14747318*
> I may have missed the original thread on this, what are you planning to do bud?


Was a LONG time ago








I believe I announced it in this thread. I've had sleeve sitting in my closet for a while now.

Originally, I was planning on single sleeving every cable (in white) on my M12II. This was all supposed to be for my Nurglegasm project, but that soon fell through when I couldn't do ANYTHING with the PSU because I simply cannot do it. I have no idea what I'm doing wrong, but it just won't work for me.
Now I'm doing the single sleeve on the X650 that I'll be picking up soon. It's for $109 now on Newegg ($70 off







)


----------



## Spicy61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dilyn;14747340*
> Was a LONG time ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe I announced it in this thread. I've had sleeve sitting in my closet for a while now.
> 
> Originally, I was planning on single sleeving every cable (in white) on my M12II. This was all supposed to be for my Nurglegasm project, but that soon fell through when I couldn't do ANYTHING with the PSU because I simply cannot do it. I have no idea what I'm doing wrong, but it just won't work for me.
> Now I'm doing the single sleeve on the X650 that I'll be picking up soon. It's for $109 now on Newegg ($70 off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


It's gone to 100 but 110 is not bad at all


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dilyn;14747340*
> Was a LONG time ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe I announced it in this thread. I've had sleeve sitting in my closet for a while now.
> 
> Originally, I was planning on single sleeving every cable (in white) on my M12II. This was all supposed to be for my Nurglegasm project, but that soon fell through when I couldn't do ANYTHING with the PSU because I simply cannot do it. I have no idea what I'm doing wrong, but it just won't work for me.
> Now I'm doing the single sleeve on the X650 that I'll be picking up soon. It's for $109 now on Newegg ($70 off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Nice, I just finished a PSU in black and white, I posted alot of it as a kinda guide format, feel free to check it out. The link is in my sig (aspros mod). If I may make a suggestion, try to get someone to make you white wires for the sleeving in white, as it looks so much better that way.


----------



## moop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;14747379*
> Nice, I just finished a PSU in black and white, I posted alot of it as a kinda guide format, feel free to check it out. The link is in my sig (aspros mod). *If I may make a suggestion, try to get someone to make you white wires for the sleeving in white, as it looks so much better that way.*


+1 on that! Makes the difference from true white and white-ish

Also, cheaper and more convenient way is to wrap the wire in white electrical tape before sleeving. Drawback is a stiffer cable


----------



## Dilyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spicy61;14747353*
> It's gone to 100 but 110 is not bad at all


The cheaper the better








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;14747379*
> Nice, I just finished a PSU in black and white, I posted alot of it as a kinda guide format, feel free to check it out. The link is in my sig (aspros mod). If I may make a suggestion, try to get someone to make you white wires for the sleeving in white, as it looks so much better that way.


That's beautiful!
Wish I could get some custom cables. I was planning on spray painting mine white as well








Wish I could get some custom cables like that. That's really nice!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moop;14747489*
> +1 on that! Makes the difference from true white and white-ish
> 
> Also, cheaper and more convenient way is to wrap the wire in white electrical tape before sleeving. Drawback is a stiffer cable


Yeah, that's why I went with spray paint. Tape just wouldn't leave me with the flexibility I want.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dilyn;14747500*
> The cheaper the better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's beautiful!
> Wish I could get some custom cables. I was planning on spray painting mine white as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish I could get some custom cables like that. That's really nice!
> 
> Yeah, that's why I went with spray paint. Tape just wouldn't leave me with the flexibility I want.


Nooo! No spray paint homie. Get on aim or send me a pm. =)


----------



## Dilyn

AIM? Haven't used that in months. People must be scared as to where I disappeared to









ygpm


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dilyn;14747522*
> AIM? Haven't used that in months. People must be scared as to where I disappeared to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ygpm


LOL, I still tend to use it alot. And PM replied.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spicy61;14747290*
> Well that's good that he put the disclaimer there. When looking at the sleeve page, however (the page that displays the product), that info is nowhere to be found. Please correct me if I am wrong, I am referring to the product page: http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve.htm.
> 
> But to me it's not about the camera and lighting issue. The issue is that when a customer ordered combat green based on the picture on the website (the basis of what the item looks like), he/she was not satisfied upon receipt of the item. I have heard this here in this enormous thread, and I have heard it elsewhere on other forums. I looked at every single picture in this thread for one reason: to investigate the combat green color since I am considering getting the Sabertooth 990FX mobo. To me, when customers say that when they see the color with their own eyes, that they are unsatisfied... that's telling me something. Nothing against you or MDPC, I am just saying my 2cents.


That information can be found in the individual descriptions on the pages for each colour of sleeve.

I think that the unsatisfied customers need to realise/remember that it was clearly stated on the product information page that the colour will only look exactly the same under an overcast sky or 5500K temperature. That's very important to keep in mind. Nils could photograph the sleeve under sunshine and people would still be unsatisfied when they view it under tungsten light or under a cold cathode. My point is that he can't photograph it in every possible lighting situation so people need to be flexible and understand that it WILL look different when not viewed in the same light situation as on the website. It's not like he is purposely trying to mislead potential customers. (Plus can you imagine trying to photograph all the different colours under all the different lighting conditions? No wonder he only picked one light situation to stick with)

It's not just sleeving that it happens with either. I've ordered clothing online expecting it to be the colour in the photograph but it's not. Colour displays differently under various lights. That's how it is. Not trying to come across rude at all (do forgive me if I have!), it's just the way nature goes


----------



## SmasherBasher

Tools of the trade:


----------



## Lutro0

Did someone say tools....


----------



## SmasherBasher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Did someone say tools....




























I <3 tools.

You should see the sheer amount of pins,connectors, bare extensions andother sleeving-related stuff I have sitting here.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*









I <3 tools.

You should see the sheer amount of pins,connectors, bare extensions andother sleeving-related stuff I have sitting here.


LOL, yea me too. I bought those in a pack and only really use like 2 of them. >.<

I really want to find a cheap wire cutter, like the one above but I want it to have a straight blade and not the curved one you see in 90 percent of them.


----------



## Born4TheSky

Don't judge me hard ... yet 
I know that sleeve is not perfect, but I am just testing colors, that was quick test. What do you think about carbon fiber insert?


----------



## Tator Tot

It looks a bit off center. I think if you could get a solid strip all around that was pretty strait, it would look awesome.


----------



## {uZa}DOA




----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


I really want to find a cheap wire cutter, like the one above but I want it to have a straight blade and not the curved one you see in 90 percent of them.


Something like this?

















These are like 5€ in my local hardware shop. There's similar ones with tungsten carbide tips that can be 10x the price though.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;14762450*
> Something like this?
> -imgsnip-
> These are like 5€ in my local hardware shop. There's similar ones with tungsten carbide tips that can be 10x the price though.


Yup thats exactly what im looking for, I need a straight edge with a sharp snipper, I will be useing it for snipping the sleeve wich is such an important part of sleeving that is very overlooking IMO. A clean straight cut and melt on the sleeve tips will equal a straight looking finish.

Now to find that in the US.


----------



## Infrabasse

Look for "Micro Shear" on ebay


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;14764127*
> Look for "Micro Shear" on ebay


lol, thanks buddy, I just figured the name of the tool out as well. Its a "flush wire cutter".


----------



## Forsaken_id

This is the one I use: 170M

EDIT: Also my MDPC-X came in on Monday









samples of the copper brown and vanilla sands N.17:









That would look amazing in a Noctura fanned/themed build. I think it would also look great on a Vanilla/combat green/brown Sabretooth build or vanilla/purple royal build.

Really it'd look great with any of the non bright colors I think.

Extensions I sleeved for a friend in orange/black every-other-one for his orange/black themed 800D:


----------



## Necrodox

Anyone got a method to sleeving tubes? Trying to get a nice clean look on my watercooling tubes. All of the things I try are annoying and don't work well at all.

I'm trying to do this with compression fittings.


----------



## goodtobeking

MDPC has sleeving for 5/8 OD tubing. And it says it can work with 3/4 OD as well, but they recommend black tubing for 3/4.

Personally havnt used it, but I am thinking of getting some for large clumps of wires.


----------



## Mr.FraG

AMAIZING pics, and great colours.


----------



## MijnWraak

No need to quote all the pictures when theyre two posts up, friend.


----------



## shnur

Finished my second sleeving job today (excluding small fans and stuff)

It's funny how it looks good on one side (the one that was facing upwards/me) and how not it is on the other side, even though I've applied the same special techniques on both.









I also ran into a slight issue. Described well in the last picture. Any ideas on how to go through that?


----------



## aesthetics1

You might try a zip tie around them to compress them as small as possible, but I still don't think it will fit. I would either cut the hole to make it larger and finish it with a rubber grommet, or trim the sleeve (if that part of your PSU is out of sight) so that it doesn't go all the way to the hole.


----------



## SmasherBasher

Yeah. Definitely cut it larger and finish with a grommet.


----------



## Infrabasse

That's what I've done with mine.



It's the perfect solution and is dead easy to accomplish.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;14843724*
> That's what I've done with mine.
> 
> It's the perfect solution and is dead easy to accomplish.


Wow that looks great. Thats a lot of Molex power connectors, but I like how you did that.


----------



## Infrabasse

Glad you like it








And, have no fear, I doubled the power lines from the psu into that long line of connectors, and the wiring is over twice the section. Working great for over 4 months now.


----------



## Alan1187

Does mdpc react to uv? I'm assuming no, but I'd like to make sure.

Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Alan1187*


Does mdpc react to uv? I'm assuming no, but I'd like to make sure.



Some of them do.

It's written in the advanced details of the colors that do.

Green for instance:
*Is this MDPC-Sleeve UV-active?*
Yes it is!

Some (all?) UV reactive colors:
Green, aquamarine blue, yellow, orange, red


----------



## Alan1187

Then I guess I'm going with there sleeving.







looks great even when not under uv so it'll really look sick even if I decide to not go uv.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alan1187;14853821*
> Then I guess I'm going with there sleeving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks great even when not under uv so it'll really look sick even if I decide to not go uv.


My thoughts exactly


----------



## SimpleTech

Something I did for a client:


----------



## Big-Pete

wow. i need this in my life. after shakedown of the new rig ill have a crack at this!


----------



## Lutro0

Well I did get the cutters I was wanting... Thanks for everyone to helped.


----------



## Infrabasse

This kind of looks familiar


















May I ask what you use for photography ?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;14864739*
> This kind of looks familiar
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May I ask what you use for photography ?










I use a Sony DSC-H50, but I am not the best with the camera. I have alot to learn about taking good photos. I have some macro lens coming here soon and some tele lens. So I should be able to have some fun with it.


----------



## Infrabasse

Oh wow I never realised you could change lenses on some of these bridge cameras. Sounds like fun








Personally I couldn't be bothered carrying a big camera around though, so I'm settling for a Powershot S95 for now.


----------



## Xien16

KNIPEX 7803125 ESD
Best quality you can get for a good price


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;14864996*
> Oh wow I never realised you could change lenses on these bridge cameras. Sounds like fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally I couldn't be bothered carrying a big camera around though, so I'm settling for a Powershot S95 for now.


You cant really "change" the lens, but you can attach a lens to the ring adapter on the front of it, and get the next best thing. I can attach any 72mm lens with the adapter I have, but I suppose you could get more adapters to put 77 or other mm lens on it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xien16;14865177*
> -img snip-
> 
> KNIPEX 7803125 ESD
> Best quality you can get for a good price


Nice Xien!


----------



## franknitty69

does anybody know about how much sleeve is required for a corsair ax1200? i want to sleeve the entire thing. as a matter of fact i will be sleeving every wire in my corsair obsidian 800D.


----------



## SmasherBasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *franknitty69;14892669*
> does anybody know about how much sleeve is required for a corsair ax1200? i want to sleeve the entire thing. as a matter of fact i will be sleeving every wire in my corsair obsidian 800D.


For an AX1200 you're going to need about 260 ft of sleeving with around 300 pieces of heat shrink. Add the cables from the 800D and somewhere in the neighborhood of 300 ft.


----------



## discipline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;14893731*
> For an AX1200 you're going to need about 260 ft of sleeving with around 300 pieces of heat shrink. Add the cables from the 800D and somewhere in the neighborhood of 300 ft.


What about a seasonic x750? Would greatly appreciate a guesstimate as I plan on ordering some sleeving from you guys next week sometime.


----------



## Lutro0

Some fan sleeving.


----------



## SmasherBasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *discipline;14893944*
> What about a seasonic x750? Would greatly appreciate a guesstimate as I plan on ordering some sleeving from you guys next week sometime.


178 ft of sleeve and 288 pieces of pre-cut heat shrink.


----------



## franknitty69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smasherbasher;14893731*
> for an ax1200 you're going to need about 260 ft of sleeving with around 300 pieces of heat shrink. Add the cables from the 800d and somewhere in the neighborhood of 300 ft.


ftw!!!


----------



## goodtobeking

Wow great idea on sleeving the fan cables up to the motor. I always thought sleeved fans looked crummy with the loose wires there.


----------



## discipline

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*


178 ft of sleeve and 288 pieces of pre-cut heat shrink.










thanks a ton! can't rep vendor reps


----------



## shnur

Got my aux cable done for my car!


----------



## Born4TheSky

cool, should do this to my headphones


----------



## Lutro0

Sorry for the pic bomb, but I decided to have some fun with shoelaces (paracord)....





































Its kind of hard stuff to work with, but not impossible.


----------



## Badwrench

Lutro, what heatshrink are you using? Looks so crisp on the edge. Also, are you gluing the paracord at the end to keep it from pulling?


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;14917294*
> Sorry for the pic bomb, but I decided to have some fun with shoelaces....










That's awesome!


----------



## XPD541

Beautiful, Lutro0. I need to get a nice hi-res camera and start modding.


----------



## mav2000

Very very nice...and great shrinking.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench;14917335*
> Lutro, what heatshrink are you using? Looks so crisp on the edge. Also, are you gluing the paracord at the end to keep it from pulling?


I am using MDPC Heatshrink, and no I dont need to glue it because the heatshrink holds it perfectly and if you melt the tips of the cord it holds it even more. Good heatshrink is the key.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai;14917345*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's awesome!


Thanks buddy!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XPD541;14917471*
> Beautiful, Lutro0. I need to get a nice hi-res camera and start modding.


Yes, yes you do!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav2000;14917611*
> Very very nice...and great shrinking.


Thanks man.


----------



## theturbofd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech;14861154*
> Something I did for a client:


Im new to sleeving but is there a tut on how to do that?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Wow Lutroo, you make shoelaces look nice!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Wow Lutroo, you make shoelaces look nice!


Thanks! Part of my motivation for even messing with it, was to see if shoelaces could even look nice, given some love and time.


----------



## nitrousoxide10

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*












Oooohh looking good!!









...and the shoe lace sleeving job is incredible! I have to admit I never thought of using shoe laces in my PC







Nice work Lutro0!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nitrousoxide10*


Oooohh looking good!!









...and the shoe lace sleeving job is incredible! I have to admit I never thought of using shoe laces in my PC







Nice work Lutro0!


Thanks buddy. Itâ€™s not actual shoelaces, shoelaces is just a loving name we have given paracord for well.. obvious reasons.


----------



## Born4TheSky




----------



## Forsaken_id

Now my buddy has a 24 pin to match his others:









and with my PCIE cables:









I wanted something a little different so I sleeved 3-in-1 sata sleeve on the 6 pin and 4-in-1 on the 8 pin extension. I will be doing 3-in-1 on my 24 pin extension soon as well.


----------



## Infrabasse

Looks nice. I would try to use large heatshrink over the 8 pin connectors and both of your 4-in-1 sleeves though.


----------



## Timo Noize

I have a dilemma, I can not decide on the color scheme.
Need to pick colors for the motherboard (Sabertooth 990fx).
Hey PPL, which advise to take from Nils??


----------



## Infrabasse

I'd go vanilla sands and combat green


----------



## Timo Noize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;14944375*
> I'd go vanilla sands and combat green


I thought about those colors.
But there is a feeling that the Copper brown suit more than combat Gren.
Because of this, and there is a dilemma .........
And can buy everything at once: D


----------



## Infrabasse

It's not all about perfect matching, it's also about contrast, I think the combo would work well.
Are you planning some chassis or accessories paintjob ?


----------



## Timo Noize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;14944451*
> It's not all about perfect matching, it's also about contrast, I think the combo would work well.
> Are you planning some chassis or accessories paintjob ?


I think your version will look good .....








I want to avoid too many colors. (I think that the third color will be extra)
I'm more inclined to minimalism so much change is not expected.


----------



## shnur

Contrast > colors.
I think combat green is just so gorgeous. I like it more compared to lets say copper brown. Although it's a question of taste and copper brown looks very good with black.
Just don't go Color-x + combat green unless you're making a Christmas computer lol


----------



## franknitty69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timo Noize;14944353*
> I have a dilemma, I can not decide on the color scheme.
> Need to pick colors for the motherboard (Sabertooth 990fx).
> Hey PPL, which advise to take from Nils??


i would definitely do vanilla sands with copper brown and black. i would make the black primary with vanilla sands secondary and copper brown as an accent.


----------



## Timo Noize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur;14945054*
> Contrast > colors.
> I think combat green is just so gorgeous. I like it more compared to lets say copper brown. Although it's a question of taste and copper brown looks very good with black.
> Just don't go Color-x + combat green unless you're making a Christmas computer lol


I begin to understand that green is more suited to the color scheme.
About Color - x totally agree, this is not the perfect balance with the color green .....
Of course if you look at it as a military coloring, it seems that it looks good .. but I'm trying to avoid a military incursion into my pc.


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *franknitty69;14945262*
> i would definitely do vanilla sands with copper brown and black. i would make the black primary with vanilla sands secondary and copper brown as an accent.


Depends on the color order you'd choose, but I think the brown "accent" would fail to stand out near the black.


----------



## Timo Noize

If you look at it in terms of minimalism (and this is what I'm trying to achieve), the presence of too many colors can damage all the work .....


----------



## nitrousoxide10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;14921144*
> Thanks buddy. It's not actual shoelaces, shoelaces is just a loving name we have given paracord for well.. obvious reasons.










Can't belive I didn't notice that. Guess I have so much faith in your sleeving work that you could actually pull something off with shoe laces. Anyway, I still say great job!


----------



## Whyzguy

I have a question.

As far as I've gathered, there are 2 big reasons to sleeving. One is that it, in itself, is a hobby and people find great joy doing sleeve work. The second is that it looks nice. Now, I've yet to do any sleeving of my own so I don't really understand the joy (yet). So my question is based on looks.

Suppose I sleeve my PSU. Without getting some LED's in the case, I'd imagine that the work would be difficult to see. So to those with experience, how do you show off your work even with a closed side pannel?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitrousoxide10;14956230*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't belive I didn't notice that. Guess I have so much faith in your sleeving work that you could actually pull something off with shoe laces. Anyway, I still say great job!


Wow, thanks for the kind words! Id be a lier if I said I dont look at alot of things and thing... I wonder if I could sleeve that.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whyzguy;14956906*
> I have a question.
> 
> As far as I've gathered, there are 2 big reasons to sleeving. One is that it, in itself, is a hobby and people find great joy doing sleeve work. The second is that it looks nice. Now, I've yet to do any sleeving of my own so I don't really understand the joy (yet). So my question is based on looks.
> 
> Suppose I sleeve my PSU. Without getting some LED's in the case, I'd imagine that the work would be difficult to see. So to those with experience, how do you show off your work even with a closed side pannel?


Well if you have a closed side panel without a window then you are right it would be hidden. But even in a low light or no light situation in a case It would be somewhat noticable, and look cleaner. And on that idea, yes most people that sleeve systems will in some way want to display that work but lighting can be done in such a maner to not look over-the-top and give a nice accent to a system.


----------



## Infrabasse

It's more a pain the ass than a joy if you ask me. But the results are oh so worth it.

How to show off your work with a closed side panel ?
err I guess you can't unless you have a window.
People show off their work via their project logs too I guess...


----------



## Whyzguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;14957027*
> Well if you have a closed side panel without a window then you are right it would be hidden. But even in a low light or no light situation in a case It would be somewhat noticable, and look cleaner. And on that idea, yes most people that sleeve systems will in some way want to display that work but lighting can be done in such a maner to not look over-the-top and give a nice accent to a system.


Oh, yeah lol. I'm talking about a side pannel with a window. And as for lighting, I have a bunch of lights in my sig rig... but since I've come to OCN and looked at some jaw-dropping case-mods/sleeving, I had decided that my Antec 900 with 2 more LED case fans; a CPU cooler LED fan; a PSU LED fan; and an LED stick looked more like blue radioactive substance than a machine.

Have you worked with any sort of lighting kits you liked? I've seen people build LED's strips from scratch but I think I'd like to get one that's already made so I can take things one at a time... starting with sleeving


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whyzguy;14957209*
> Oh, yeah lol. I'm talking about a side pannel with a window. And as for lighting, I have a bunch of lights in my sig rig... but since I've come to OCN and looked at some jaw-dropping case-mods/sleeving, I had decided that my Antec 900 with 2 more LED case fans; a CPU cooler LED fan; a PSU LED fan; and an LED stick looked more like blue radioactive substance than a machine.
> 
> Have you worked with any sort of lighting kits you liked? I've seen people build LED's strips from scratch but I think I'd like to get one that's already made so I can take things one at a time... starting with sleeving


This would be an awesome question for the case mod forum, but I personally like these: Led Strips


----------



## bru_05

So is it cheating if you just buy some extensions that are already sleeved? I may or may not have done that for my PSU/PCIe cables







But, I did sleeve my fan cables and case cables!!


----------



## Whyzguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;14957342*
> This would be an awesome question for the case mod forum, but I personally like these: Led Strips


Ah. I'll head on over there then. Thanks for all your help though!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bru_05;14957829*
> So is it cheating if you just buy some extensions that are already sleeved? I may or may not have done that for my PSU/PCIe cables
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, I did sleeve my fan cables and case cables!!


No but you really miss out on getting into a new art. Then again if you sleeved your fans and what not you got a taste of it. =)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whyzguy;14957897*
> Ah. I'll head on over there then. Thanks for all your help though!


Hey no problem, and feel free to shoot me a pm if you have any questions.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bru_05;14957829*
> So is it cheating if you just buy some extensions that are already sleeved? I may or may not have done that for my PSU/PCIe cables
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, I did sleeve my fan cables and case cables!!


Not at all. Just the fact that you are on this thread is a good start. Pre-sleeved extensions are just a gateway into wanting to do it yourself. (Also a great way to keep your warranty on your psu







)


----------



## Timo Noize

All greetings...!
I want to share photos of the tools.
The tool consists of ball pens and forks of a supply from the old motherboard...


----------



## betaKING

Awesome thread. Really helpful


----------



## Timo Noize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *betaKING;14977800*
> Awesome thread. Really helpful


Course will help ......
The very use constantly .....
Good savings .....


----------



## ekg84

just finished sleeving my Fractal Core 3000 Front panel Cables:


----------



## subnet

Excellent work (is that Techflex CleanCut I see?).


----------



## ekg84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *subnet*


Excellent work (is that Techflex CleanCut I see?).


Exactly! Trained eye i guess







Its very easy to work with. Nice dense sleeving.


----------



## bl1nk

Looking for an opinion or two guys. I plan on doing a rebuilt of my 800D and I think I want to attempt sleeving myself. I was very much tempted to pay someone to do it for me, but it is time for me to learn so I can consider myself a true enthusiast.

What I would like help/some opinions on are the design/color combo. I plan on ordering from MDPC or FTW, I'm leaning towards MDPC based solely on their wide range of colors. I am going to be doing a Mario themed build.

As of right now I am thinking of doing White+Red+Vanilla Sands. I plan to pair this with green tubing (thought it would play into the Mario theme nicely, but not sure how it will fit with the sleeving colors) and a helix res from Frozen Q, I'm thinking red/white for that.

My question is how do you guys think this color combo would pair together, is there anything you would change? Also I'm finding it difficult to determine what pattern of the colors I'd like to use. Any advice/opinions would be great!


----------



## Infrabasse

I think white + vanilla would clash


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infrabasse*


I think white + vanilla would clash


I think it does: http://www.overclock.net/14817437-post57.html

At least with _just _white it does.


----------



## bl1nk

Hmm, I think I may have to agree with you guys. Maybe the copper will add enough contrast to not clash? Back to the drawing boards it is then, maybe I'll just give up being fancy and go for simple white+red.

Some rep for the opinions, thanks guys.


----------



## shnur

I finally finished my power supply! Two months in the works








Will post pictures soon


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84;14990075*
> just finished sleeving my Fractal Core 3000 Front panel Cables:


Very nice job!


----------



## SmasherBasher

I've always been a sucker for red and black.


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;14994725*
> I've always been a sucker for red and black.


if u like red and black take a look at my case mod in my sig...i also really want to sleeve my cables when i get them to look just like that very nice


----------



## Forsaken_id

Prep work to keep my cables flat (blue wire is one i added to make it be a true 24 pin and not mess up the 3-in-1):









and the finished 24 pin:

















I'll post again with it in the system once I match my PCI E extensions.


----------



## Smo

Very interesting - I like that! Nice work dude.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smo*


Very interesting - I like that! Nice work dude.


Thanks, man. I wanted something a little different. My sata cables are sleeved with that too and I dig the way it looks.

Installed update:

















The MDPC-X is too bright, so I need to change over those PCI E to the ogre sleeve. Also need to move the separation zip ties on the 24 pin back to where they aren't seen. You can't see them straight on, but you know. . .


----------



## shnur




----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur;15006283*
> -pic snip-


SHNUR! <3

I love the color melody man.


----------



## shnur

I thought it was so rare that people used many colors... wanted to change that


----------



## Lutro0

Check out this awesome minimalism.










LOL... Sorry I couldnt help myself with the discussion on it earlier.


----------



## solsamurai

Please forgive me if this is the wrong place to ask this...

I ordered this PWM splitter from FrozenCPU and paid to have them sleeve it as I didn't have the time/$$$ to attempt it on my own. Before connecting to my m/b I was bending the cable to see how flexible the sleeve was and the 4-pin connector that plugs into the CPU_FAN header popped off. I didn't think much of it, reattached the 4-pin connector and moved on. Now I'm unable to get the PWM function on my m/b to work. I'm guessing I placed the wires in the wrong position in the connector...not sure where the two wires are supposed to go now.







Can someone point me in the right direction?


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai;15009782*
> Please forgive me if this is the wrong place to ask this...
> 
> I ordered this PWM splitter from FrozenCPU and paid to have them sleeve it as I didn't have the time/$$$ to attempt it on my own. Before connecting to my m/b I was bending the cable to see how flexible the sleeve was and the 4-pin connector that plugs into the CPU_FAN header popped off. I didn't think much of it, reattached the 4-pin connector and moved on. Now I'm unable to get the PWM function on my m/b to work. I'm guessing I placed the wires in the wrong position in the connector...not sure where the two wires are supposed to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can someone point me in the right direction?


The female plug that plugs into the MOBO right?? I have one that I used for sleeving practice. Although I havnt checked it to make sure it works yet, as I replaced it with the 5 fan version.

But I pulled off the heatshrink and with the two plastic tabs down, the 3 blue wires go to the very right slot. And the single green wire goes to the one left of that(3rd from the left).

EDIT: on PWM fans, the 4 wires are + then - then sensor then PWM function. Since the cable only attaches the sensor and PWM function to the MOBO, you can only mess them two up. Sounds like to me, you didnt get the PWM wires right. They go into the slot, that the 3 pin fan headers dont have if that helps any.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking;15009918*
> The female plug that plugs into the MOBO right?? I have one that I used for sleeving practice. Although I havnt checked it to make sure it works yet, as I replaced it with the 5 fan version.
> 
> But I pulled off the heatshrink and with the two plastic tabs down, the 3 blue wires go to the very right slot. And the single green wire goes to the one left of that(3rd from the left).
> 
> EDIT: on PWM fans, the 4 wires are + then - then sensor then PWM function. Since the cable only attaches the sensor and PWM function to the MOBO, you can only mess them two up. Sounds like to me, you didnt get the PWM wires right. They go into the slot, that the 3 pin fan headers dont have if that helps any.


Kinda, lol. It will probably make more sense when I get home and can look at the cable. If possible I'll take a couple pics, but if anything confirm how many wires there are. This cable is different from other PWM splitters in that it has a 4-pin molex for power from the PSU.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solsamurai*


Kinda, lol. It will probably make more sense when I get home and can look at the cable. If possible I'll take a couple pics, but if anything confirm how many wires there are. This cable is different from other PWM splitters in that it has a 4-pin molex for power from the PSU.


I know about the molex for power. I have that same exact one and I also bought it from FrozenCPU. I took it out of my system when I upgraded my loop and now have 5 PWM fans with Akasa's new PWM splitter for 5 fans.

So I used the old one for practice sleeving, and used 3 different sleeves for a comparison. I used FTWPC sleeving(white and orange), Paracord(green and yellow), and MDPC(titanium Thanks to Elmacho, an unposted member). And of course, I plan on redoing the sleeving when I decide on colors/sleeving. It would no way go with my build, even though it is tucked behind the MOBO tray.

Here is a pic of what I am talking about.


















And here are two pictures for you Solsamurai



















I am now testing it to make sure I got all the conections right. I just unplugged the fan acting as the sensor, and plugged the "old" one into it.
Right now I have 6 PWM fan running off of one MOBO fan header, and another normal 3 pin as well. And the PWM signal is working through both connectors

EDIT: resized the pictures. And for some reason I couldnt get a better picture of the last one. Taken with my Casio GzOne Commando


----------



## solsamurai

I can see pics fine.







the close up pics are perfect. I will make sure mine is the same shortly. I was way too tired when I got home last night to open up my rig. Thanks for helping me out!









EDIT: here's a terrible iPhone pic of the cable in my rig. It's the same as your pics so I will look into the issue further. Hopefully it's just something really obvious.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;14991481*
> I think white + vanilla would clash


Completely disagree. I have samples of white and vanilla sitting in front of me and they look quite nice together imo. Add some grey into the mix and


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;15017147*
> Completely disagree. I have samples of white and vanilla sitting in front of me and they look quite nice together imo. Add some grey into the mix and


Woa woa! -mops up floor-

Man.... trying to keep it clean in here.


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;15017147*
> Completely disagree. I have samples of white and vanilla sitting in front of me and they look quite nice together imo. Add some grey into the mix and


With grey maybe. It'd do a subtle, low saturation combo. With a bright red next to white+vanilla, not so much.
I still think it'd clash


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Red, white and vanilla together doesn't look so good, but white and red/red and vanilla/vanilla and white each look good on their own. To me at least. But then again, I am comparing them with only two pieces of sleeve side by side. A whole cable done with them might not look so good. Tell you what is sexy though... Vanilla and Grand Bleu. Looks like a nice summer's day at the beach.


----------



## bl1nk

I chickened out and decided to just go red+white. With some very slight hints of grand bleu on things like fans, usb, etc.. I hope it is dark enough and that my sparing use of it will prvent it from looking like a USA theme.


----------



## Gunfire

Completely Vanilla PSU paired with some Noctua case fans.

/End color combo discussion.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai;15014735*
> I can see pics fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the close up pics are perfect. I will make sure mine is the same shortly. I was way too tired when I got home last night to open up my rig. Thanks for helping me out!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: here's a terrible iPhone pic of the cable in my rig. It's the same as your pics so I will look into the issue further. Hopefully it's just something really obvious.


I cant tell if the two plastic tabs are up or not in your picture. I think the MOBO fan header on my MOBO is facing the other way. Meaning it may be backwards


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking;15018766*
> I cant tell if the two plastic tabs are up or not in your picture. I think the MOBO fan header on my MOBO is facing the other way. Meaning it may be backwards


I know it's a iphone pic...basically it looks the same as this pic you posted earlier...


----------



## RushMore1205

Oh my favorite mail in the world


----------



## shnur

I know!!!

Also the stamps are sooooo pretty


----------



## skuzzzzy




----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuzzzzy;15020918*
> -img snip-


Good Job Bud!

And I have to share, I was taking photos with some sleeve samples of MDPC that I have, and Copper Brown... It is very warm and inviting. Def, will have to use it in an upcoming mod. I think paired with white or black it would be a killer combo.










There is some photos of black and brown on the MDPC-X site! : LINK


----------



## eizen

This thread is wonderful.
That's all I got...


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I am no Lutro0, Martin or Jannik but I must say, pre-cut heatshrink sure does help a LOT for getting a better sleeve job. Too bad I'll have to re-do all of this eventually when I replace the mutilated wires!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


I am no Lutro0, Martin or Jannik but I must say, pre-cut heatshrink sure does help a LOT for getting a better sleeve job. Too bad I'll have to re-do all of this eventually when I replace the mutilated wires!

-imgsnip-


Yes but then you shall have a special tool helping you.









And btw those look great =)


----------



## catharsis

Why do people say the precut heatshrinks are so much better? Is it really that difficult to cut them?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *catharsis*


Why do people say the precut heatshrinks are so much better? Is it really that difficult to cut them?


If you have good tools to help you cut them to the exact length every time it's probably quite easy but I don't. They'd always be a few mm different in length. With the pre-cut stuff I know it's all the same length so I just have to line it up on the pin and shrink and I know it will come out just fine each time


----------



## Lutro0

Just another shot of the fan sleeving with the custom sticker for it.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;15041349*
> I am no Lutro0, Martin or Jannik but I must say, pre-cut heatshrink sure does help a LOT for getting a better sleeve job. Too bad I'll have to re-do all of this eventually when I replace the mutilated wires!


Looks great. And I agree about the pre-cut. Much easier.


----------



## catharsis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


If you have good tools to help you cut them to the exact length every time it's probably quite easy but I don't. They'd always be a few mm different in length. With the pre-cut stuff I know it's all the same length so I just have to line it up on the pin and shrink and I know it will come out just fine each time










What exactly kinda of tools do you need? Seems to me a ruler and an exacto knife or a pair of scissors would work fine. I'm just trying to get a better idea here before I order.


----------



## bl1nk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *catharsis*


What exactly kinda of tools do you need? Seems to me a ruler and an exacto knife or a pair of scissors would work fine. I'm just trying to get a better idea here before I order.


Refer to the 2nd post here:

http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...tutorials.html

Some things aren't 100% necessary, for instance the heat gun and some use staples as a pin remover, but it is a solid list. 
That being said, I still would get them (and am going to when I start my sleeving). For the amount of time/head aches they will save it is worth it IMO. If you are doing a little sleeving job, then you could definitely do without them.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catharsis;15053841*
> What exactly kinda of tools do you need? Seems to me a ruler and an exacto knife or a pair of scissors would work fine. I'm just trying to get a better idea here before I order.


I just couldn't get it accurate every time. I'd accidentally cut it on a slight angle or 1mm too short/long. To do it accurately it's easiest to just make a little jig but I couldn't think of anything to use to be able to make one up. You can cut the heatshrink yourself but the price difference between pre-cut and non pre-cut is so small there's no point really for all the time and effort it saves you.


----------



## shnur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;15057176*
> I just couldn't get it accurate every time. I'd accidentally cut it on a slight angle or 1mm too short/long. To do it accurately it's easiest to just make a little jig but I couldn't think of anything to use to be able to make one up. You can cut the heatshrink yourself but the price difference between pre-cut and non pre-cut is so small there's no point really for all the time and effort it saves you.


I actually find that cutting your own is cooler. I have a few "reference" pre-cut ones and I cut the rest of the heatshrink to that; I use a wire cutter though; not scissors since it's a lot more precise and it's a straight 1 cut job. Maybe it's just me cheaping out; but I feel like I'm "saving" money by doing it


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*


I actually find that cutting your own is cooler. I have a few "reference" pre-cut ones and I cut the rest of the heatshrink to that; I use a wire cutter though; not scissors since it's a lot more precise and it's a straight 1 cut job. Maybe it's just me cheaping out; but I feel like I'm "saving" money by doing it










For the life of me I just can't cut them the same each time no matter what I do







Even with reference ones. I'm glad Nils caters to hams like me


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*





Don't call me a meany but I spy unevenness in shrink length


----------



## shnur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


For the life of me I just can't cut them the same each time no matter what I do







Even with reference ones. I'm glad Nils caters to hams like me



















When you fail, try and try again. Or ask Nils to do it for you









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infrabasse*


Don't call me a meany but I spy unevenness in shrink length










Which part? I still haven't put the power supply in my case and I might redo some parts; like the top left cable. Since it's half modular and the distance from where the wires were located on the board further and closer so I had to kind of "guess" the length I needed.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*










When you fail, try and try again. Or ask Nils to do it for you










There comes a time when failing and trying again too often wastes a lot of heatshrink and money haha


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


For the life of me I just can't cut them the same each time no matter what I do







Even with reference ones. I'm glad Nils caters to hams like me










You and me both Spider! You can add me to the list of Hams.
















Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*










When you fail, try and try again. Or ask Nils to do it for you









Which part? I still haven't put the power supply in my case and I might redo some parts; like the top left cable. Since it's half modular and the distance from where the wires were located on the board further and closer so I had to kind of "guess" the length I needed.


Well hopefully once the tool arrives you wont have to do that anymore.







And PM me and we will fix the guessing of the length of sleeve. =)


----------



## shnur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


There comes a time when failing and trying again too often wastes a lot of heatshrink and money haha










Yeah, so thinking about it, we're probably paying the same $/actual heatshrink on cables. I just buy more and make mistakes...









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


You and me both Spider! You can add me to the list of Hams.
















Well hopefully once the tool arrives you wont have to do that anymore.







And PM me and we will fix the guessing of the length of sleeve. =)


I hope so! It'll even match my custom made CPU block









YGLoPM's


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur;15063043*
> Which part?


The only 2 shrinks visible side by side on the modular cable connector.
Mind you, this difference could be due to positioning and not shrink length.


----------



## shnur

Oh; on the modular black/copper cable? Hum... I'll have to redo those! Thanks for pointing them out









I'm pre-cutting all heatshrinks to the standard MDPC length. Can't remember what it is; I think 10mm, and Nils is currently re-sleeving his website...

I think it's the cable I had the most problems with


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur;15070509*
> Oh; on the modular black/copper cable? Hum... I'll have to redo those! Thanks for pointing them out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pre-cutting all heatshrinks to the standard MDPC length. Can't remember what it is; I think 10mm, and Nils is currently re-sleeving his website...
> 
> I think it's the cable I had the most problems with


It just looks like your shrinking it in the wrong spot buddy. These are for eps pins but there is a little lip/mark on the round Molex ones as well.










and then










I will be going over this and how to measure the right length of sleeve on the next video in my guides.


----------



## shnur

Yeah; those were before I went through and realized half of the shrink could go inside... =D

I think I'll be redoing most of my work haha


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*


Yeah; those were before I went through and realized half of the shrink could go inside... =D

I think I'll be redoing most of my work haha



Then you'll probably realise that your heatshrink cutting technique isn't as flawless as you thought it was


----------



## SmasherBasher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infrabasse*


Then you'll probably realise that your heatshrink cutting technique isn't as flawless as you thought it was










We are working on a solution for that.


----------



## shnur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infrabasse*


Then you'll probably realise that your heatshrink cutting technique isn't as flawless as you thought it was










It is!!!








My sleeving technique isn't though


----------



## SmasherBasher

Can we come play in the sandbox too?













































This is another Übersleeve service we are doing with a whole lot of extras for our customer. So far he has over $1k in his case mod and this is only part of it. Not looking bad so far.


----------



## Infrabasse

Again, this really isn't supposed to be an advertising thread. I'm sure your customer can post pics of his pc himself


----------



## bl1nk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;15076962*
> Again, this really isn't supposed to be an advertising thread. I'm sure your customer can post pics of his pc himself


By that logic martin/crysis shouldn't be allowed to post either. He is displaying some of his sleeving, what we all do here. Just because he owns a business doesn't mean he is to be excluded.


----------



## Infrabasse

They're keeping their posts clean of self flattering comments, sticking to pure eye candy...


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Indeed they don't tend to talk about their businesses in their posts. It's nice to just let the images speak for themselves sometimes


----------



## banthracis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;15076962*
> I'm sure your customer can post pics of his pc himself


Don't worry, there'll be lots of pics posted once all the pieces get to me


----------



## solsamurai

Alright then now get back to posting smexy sleeve pics!


----------



## Lutro0

Dont know if you want to call this eye candy, but I thought they looked perdy. =)




























Need to work on indirect lighting, and how to use this macro lens. -.-


----------



## solsamurai

Candy colors looks like candy!


----------



## Timo Noize

And what thickness should be a shrink to achieve such results??


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

They don't look perdy Lutro0...they look sexay


----------



## Tator Tot

Personally; I'm all for everyone showing off their sleeving pictures and saying what they want.

Sometimes, it's nice to have a bit of background information.









If Smasher didn't say that it would be such an intensive case mod; then my imagination wouldn't have gone so wild after seeing that PSU. A Black & White X Series / AX Unit looks great, and the dragon was a nice touch, but knowing it was a small part of a greater whole adds to the mystery and what my imagination can bring forth.

tl;dr everyone's got a voice for a reason.


----------



## shnur

I think we should just enjoy pictures and whatever the person posting them wishes to add


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur;15087675*
> I think we should just enjoy pictures and whatever the person posting them wishes to add


This.

I completed my CPU 8 pin, PCI-E 6, and PCI-E 8 pins to match.


----------



## SmasherBasher

Those extensions look sweet.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id*


This.

I completed my CPU 8 pin, PCI-E 6, and PCI-E 8 pins to match.











What size sleeving your using for the larger sleeve?? I like the green/black look. Do they make that in a blue/black?? Looks good


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher;15090856*
> Those extensions look sweet.


Thanks, Smasher!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking;15094856*
> What size sleeving your using for the larger sleeve?? I like the green/black look. Do they make that in a blue/black?? Looks good


It is 3/8" Ogre Techflex. It is only a tight, multiweave with the larger sizes like 3/8"s and up.

The 3/8" matches the sata sleeve size from MDPC. To my knowledge, there isn't any other colors with black from them. Black with any of the other colors would be great.

http://www.techflex.com/prod_PET.asp then click the colors tab.


----------



## Lutro0

Latest work, and some more pics. =)


----------



## Timo Noize

This is beautiful.








I really like the black and yellow version.
I could use these colors, but colors case does not allow me this .....


----------



## Badwrench

Lovin' the yellow. My current project is going to be Lemon/lime and neon green paracord - "Lemons" build. Pics to be coming soon.


----------



## shnur

A yellow build!~~~~


----------



## vitality

What do you guys think? {uZa}DOA made them


----------



## Timo Noize

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vitality*


What do you guys think? {uZa}DOA made them


I like everything, but the red cooler does not fit .... IMHO
I would put white .....


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vitality;15119390*
> What do you guys think? {uZa}DOA made them


Looks good. I like his work:
The set he did for me:









In my current rig for now before I do complete sleeving job. switching to the fluorescent orange that you see on the left, with a small amount of black for contrast (similar to lutro's yellow and black above) :









I had him go 2x2 instead of every other.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Lutro0, imo that's the sexiest cable you have ever done


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;15128464*
> Lutro0, imo that's the sexiest cable you have ever done










Thanks! I have a whole slew more of them to do. But I have to say, an Enermax 24 pin.... phew... who ever designed that thing up needs to get a new job.


----------



## vitality

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timo Noize;15126029*
> I like everything, but the red cooler does not fit .... IMHO
> I would put white .....


Yes I'm going to order a white led fan







I don't know which to get though.. I need it to be able to move a lot of air.


----------



## adamski07

I'll be starting my sleeving project once my sleeves arrives. Btw, it's black and blue combination coz im sticking on black/blue theme.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*









Thanks! I have a whole slew more of them to do. But I have to say, an Enermax 24 pin.... phew... who ever designed that thing up needs to get a new job.










No, don't say that. Pretty sure that is one of the next I will be doing







. 
The modular Corsairs already have enough 2 into 1 for me.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench;15135199*
> No, don't say that. Pretty sure that is one of the next I will be doing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> The modular Corsairs already have enough 2 into 1 for me.


Well the one I am working on has a 24 pin with an 8pin connected to it and about 3 or so double wires, and one that splits from 2 to 3. LOL Not to mention the pins are hard to remove. It's not impossible just harder.

When you start on it let me know if you have any questions.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;15137100*
> Well the one I am working on has a 24 pin with an 8pin connected to it and about 3 or so double wires, and one that splits from 2 to 3. LOL Not to mention the pins are hard to remove. It's not impossible just harder.
> 
> When you start on it let me know if you have any questions.


Sweet! You can count on a pm or two.

As for now, how much space do you put between each sata power connector when you do a daisy chain (I am doing 5 on a single line for an AX750. Customer is stacking 4 hdds and an ssd in a 5 hdd rack.)?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench;15137194*
> Sweet! You can count on a pm or two.
> 
> As for now, how much space do you put between each sata power connector when you do a daisy chain (I am doing 5 on a single line for an AX750. Customer is stacking 4 hdds and an ssd in a 5 hdd rack.)?


It's kind of depended on the case to me, I have had most that were the same distance but I have had a few that were off by a little bit, your best bet is to measure the distance between the plugs.


----------



## viper522

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id;15004445*
> Thanks, man. I wanted something a little different. My sata cables are sleeved with that too and I dig the way it looks.
> 
> Installed update:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The MDPC-X is too bright, so I need to change over those PCI E to the ogre sleeve. Also need to move the separation zip ties on the 24 pin back to where they aren't seen. You can't see them straight on, but you know. . .


I'm a big fan of the alternative-to-the-common look you've got going on. I like a mixture of sleeve diameters, personally.


----------



## shnur

Idea taken from Xien16


----------



## NguyenAdam

Where can I find a guide that will help me to start sleeving? I want to sleeve my own PSU soon.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NguyenAdam;15208683*
> Where can I find a guide that will help me to start sleeving? I want to sleeve my own PSU soon.


Check out Lutro0's sig above!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur;15196251*


Looken Good buddy.









Also - Played around with some soft focusing.


----------



## PyreSpirit

How much sleeving do you guys think it'll take to sleeve a SeaSonic x650? And how much will it cost ?


----------



## mortimersnerd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PyreSpirit*


How much sleeving do you guys think it'll take to sleeve a SeaSonic x650? And how much will it cost ?


We have a kit for the X-650 - http://ftwpc.com/cables-and-sleeving...nic-x-650.html


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PyreSpirit*


How much sleeving do you guys think it'll take to sleeve a SeaSonic x650? And how much will it cost ?


There is an answer to this in the op of this thread, but I have written one out as well.

I will write this in guide form for others to use. But here is the link to your PSU. http://www.seasonic.com/pdf/datashee...l/X-Series.pdf If thats not it let me know.

Also if you have any questions please feel free to pm me.

Sleeving - How much sleeving will I need?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------The best and really only way is to measure them yourself or look at the datasheet for your psu. This can be found on the website for the manufactor of your psu or a review site as well.

Now you just have to look at the cable length and then add them up....

Let's say you have a 24pin cable and the datasheet says it is 520mm long, so:
_24x520mm = 12,480 millimeters = 12.48 meters_

So for just the 24pin you will need 12.48 meters of sleeving.

And then you continue to do the same for the eps, sata, molex, and pcie cables. (not to mention any other things/cables you want sleeved)
Once you have everything added up you will want to add 10-20% more sleeve to it just in case you mess something up or perhaps forget about something.

Heatshrink - How much heatshrink will I need?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Most places sell precut HS now, so that makes it as simple as adding it up with the rule that you will need 2x pieces of HS per wire.

So you add up all of the wires of your cables/things that you will be sleeving.
_I.E. a 24pin cable has 24 pins. So you will need 48 cuts of HS for just the 24pin._

I always add 50-100 more pieces no matter what so you don't have to settle for a messed up look, even more so if this is your first time sleeving. 
*If you are using tubing that is not precut*, I believe the rule of thumb is to find out how much 20% of your total order of sleeving will be and order that amount in HS. 
*But again I would choose to try and do the math*, for example is you are using 15mm cuts of hs, you would need 30mm of hs *per wire*, and if you are using 20mm cuts you would need 40mm per wire and so on. Remember to add the equivalent of 50 to 100 extra pieces so you can get it right.


----------



## dajawan

http://yan-er.com/1r4 hardware


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I'm thinking that needs to be in the first post of this thread


----------



## Denilson

Im looking for someone to sleeve all my PC cables, willing to pay so could you guys help out in any way ??

I am from Europe!!


----------



## Badwrench

A little progress on my upcoming "Lemons" build:



















Also, playing around with FTWpc's new SATA sleeve. 









A little too long on the heatshrink, but just want to see how it works. So far, so good.


----------



## shnur

That's paracord? It looks gorgeous!


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*


That's paracord? It looks gorgeous!










Yup, paracord. Thanks.


----------



## Lutro0

Badwrench, the paracord looks phenom. Great Job Buddy!


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench;15253629*
> A little progress on my upcoming "Lemons" build:


ummmm Lemons !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cave Johnson*
> Alright, I've been thinking. When life gives you lemons, don't make lemonade - make life take the lemons back! Get mad! I don't want your damn lemons, what am I supposed to do with these? Demand to see life's manager. Make life rue the day it thought it could give Cave Johnson lemons. Do you know who I am? I'm the man who's gonna burn your house down! With the lemons. I'm going to to get my engineers to invent a combustible lemon that burns your house down!


So much inspiration !


----------



## ikem

mmm last pieces coming to a finish...


----------



## adamski07

any tips for PSU sleeving.. can't take pci-3 and 24 pin connector. ughh.. Used the tool, a pin, staple.. in 1 hr I have removed just one wire -.-


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem;15301695*
> mmm last pieces coming to a finish...
> -img snip-


Looks awesome Ikem!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamski07;15302187*
> any tips for PSU sleeving.. can't take pci-3 and 24 pin connector. ughh.. Used the tool, a pin, staple.. in 1 hr I have removed just one wire -.-


If your using a tool, you need to push the pin up into the connector first, then push the tool in and then pull the wire out. Some times you will need to pull a little hard as the pins will be in there pretty good depending on the power supply. My mdpc guide has a example of what I just said if you want to see it in video form.

Please feel free to pm me if your still having problems and we will get it figured out.


----------



## Monocog007

What does everyone think? It was my first sleeving job, so i went as cheap as possible.

I must say that FTWPC paracord and heatshrink is amazing! Highly recommended.
220 feet paracord and 20 feet heatshrink was enough to do everything and have some extra.


----------



## Badwrench

Looks great monocog. Great job on your first try.


----------



## shnur

it's quite amazing for a first!


----------



## loop0001

have to say i have only one complaint about this thread with all it's beautiful pictures of sleeving in crazy detail... and that is that there arent any higher res pics i can use as backgrounds on my comp lol


----------



## Kortwa

I would imagine most people downsize their photos so that it is not a massive size for the forums. If you wanted a higher res picture you could ask and probably get one.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Monocog007;15315495*
> What does everyone think? It was my first sleeving job, so i went as cheap as possible.
> 
> I must say that FTWPC paracord and heatshrink is amazing! Highly recommended.
> 220 feet paracord and 20 feet heatshrink was enough to do everything and have some extra.


That looks great. Pictures like that make me wanna sleeve my whole PSU. Is that electric blue?? And I like how you just used heat shrink on the short sections between the molex plugs.

I have a OCZ 700W stealthstream PSU that I just took out of my HTPC(replaced with an Antec Neo 400W). I was thinking of selling it here and go the bright idea to use it as my first real sleeving test. Now I have a couple questions if someone would like to help me with.

1. Does sleeving increase the resale value?? Something simple like black so it could be used in almost any case.
2. How do I get a clean look at the PSU, since it is non modular and I dont want to void the warranty.

If it goes well enough, I will switch my Sig rig PSU out and sleeve it as well.


----------



## Kortwa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking;15324282*
> 1. Does sleeving increase the resale value?? Something simple like black so it could be used in almost any case.
> 2. How do I get a clean look at the PSU, since it is non modular and I dont want to void the warranty.
> 
> If it goes well enough, I will switch my Sig rig PSU out and sleeve it as well.


1. I would say it does. I see no reason that people here wouldnt understand a higher price for a fully sleeved PSU if they liked the work.

2. To do it without taking apart the PSU you would have to sleeve the wires up to the whole in the front. You would then want to use one massive piece of heatshrink to cover all the wires before they go into the PSU.


----------



## Monocog007

Quote:



Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*


That looks great. Pictures like that make me wanna sleeve my whole PSU. Is that electric blue?? And I like how you just used heat shrink on the short sections between the molex plugs.


Yeah its FTWPC Electric Blue. It didnt seem to micro-fray like some said paracord does. I'm very happy with the results.

Thanks for the compliments guys!


----------



## loop0001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kortwa*


I would imagine most people downsize their photos so that it is not a massive size for the forums. If you wanted a higher res picture you could ask and probably get one.


true on all points.. but it isnt' quite... "one" picture... kindof goin for a gallery as it were haha


----------



## Tipless

para cord ftw lol


----------



## Kortwa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loop0001;15325678*
> true on all points.. but it isnt' quite... "one" picture... kindof goin for a gallery as it were haha


Heh happens to everyone


----------



## kevininsimi

Are your 24 pin cables all tangled? I just started to sleeve and I'm on my fifth cable or so... looks all weird and stuff. :-/


----------



## Lutro0

Here is some work I did for the latest video guide.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Awesome as always!


----------



## therock003

Guys can i use sleeving to combine several separate cables into one? I just want to adjoin cables that run outside of my computer (power cord, monitor vga-and power cord, etc) into one bigger cable so that there's no labyrinth of cables running behind my desk. IS that plausible?


----------



## shnur

Yes, you can use bigger sleeving; for example the tubing sleeve:
http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sle...leeve-pack.htm
Also the jumbo and big sleeve would work in that.
SATA sleeve too; depends how much cables you want to put together.


----------



## therock003

Is it necessary though to remove the original cable insulation? What i actually want to do is combine lots of different purpose cables into one sleeve-tube.

I havent done anything like this before, so i dont even know what the names and the procedures are. Just describing what i'd like, and hope for a positive outcome


----------



## shnur

What insulation are you talking about? The aluminium foil around the cables? I personally wouldn't remove that; it will cause noise and you might render the cable useless.

Usually you sleeve over the original insulation.


----------



## kevininsimi

Hey guys, this is n00b sleeving... tell me what you think.










I have to work on getting the heatshrink to the right length for each cable... meh. Please pardon the picture quality... my camera sucks.


----------



## longroadtrip

fix the shrink and they will look perfect! nice work for a first attempt!


----------



## Infrabasse

It's pretty damn good. Hard to get a perfect technique for aligning the heatshrink. A dedicated tool might help.
I would redo the 2nd sleeve from the right, it looks as though it's about to go loose


----------



## kevininsimi

Thanks guys!!









Infrabasse: Yeah it's bothering me, might redo it when my sleeves come in... ran out and had to order more!! haha


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevininsimi;15356082*
> Hey guys, this is n00b sleeving... tell me what you think.
> 
> -img snip-
> 
> I have to work on getting the heatshrink to the right length for each cable... meh. Please pardon the picture quality... my camera sucks.


Looks good, might want to redo the second one in. May I suggest you check the link in my sig for the video guides I have made? They will give you an in-depth look on how to sleeve and some of the basic and advanced techniques. It will save you some time and frustration.

If you have any questions at all please feel free to ask.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;15356141*
> It's pretty damn good. Hard to get a perfect technique for aligning the heatshrink. *A dedicated tool might help.*I would redo the 2nd sleeve from the right, it looks as though it's about to go loose


+1








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevininsimi;15356548*
> Thanks guys!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Infrabasse: Yeah it's bothering me, might redo it when my sleeves come in... ran out and had to order more!! haha


LOL, I've had that happen a few times. But it gives you some more time to put some thought into the finer details.


----------



## kevininsimi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;15357173*
> Looks good, might want to redo the second one in. May I suggest you check the link in my sig for the video guides I have made? They will give you an in-depth look on how to sleeve and some of the basic and advanced techniques. It will save you some time and frustration.
> 
> If you have any questions at all please feel free to ask.
> 
> +1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOL, I've had that happen a few times. But it gives you some more time to put some thought into the finer details.


Whoa! You have a lot of info in that thread! +rep good sir









Definitely have to consider the tool, I've been eying the shrink length the entire time. Maybe I need to buy pre-cut shrink too..


----------



## shnur

Pre-cut saves you a lot of time and makes every attempt perfect


----------



## rockosmodlife

Generic heatshrink and black paracord; I will be redoing them with precut HS and proper sleeving after I do a major hardware upgrade.


----------



## just a noob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Well the one I am working on has a 24 pin with an 8pin connected to it and about 3 or so double wires, and one that splits from 2 to 3. LOL Not to mention the pins are hard to remove. Itâ€™s not impossible just harder.

When you start on it let me know if you have any questions.










...You wouldn't happen to be talking about one of the new fully modular Enermax psu's, would you?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevininsimi*


Whoa! You have a lot of info in that thread! +rep good sir









Definitely have to consider the tool, I've been eying the shrink length the entire time. Maybe I need to buy pre-cut shrink too..


Appreciate it, You can also build a jig to cut them, I explained it in the sleeving tools video.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shnur*


Pre-cut saves you a lot of time and makes every attempt perfect










Yes +10000 to that one, but there is times when non pre-cut does come in handy.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *just a noob*


...You wouldn't happen to be talking about one of the new fully modular Enermax psu's, would you?


I would, I have to say it is the most interesting PSU I have ever worked on, and most likely the last time I will ever work on one.


----------



## fl0w3n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;14764086*
> Yup thats exactly what im looking for, I need a straight edge with a sharp snipper, I will be useing it for snipping the sleeve wich is such an important part of sleeving that is very overlooking IMO. A clean straight cut and melt on the sleeve tips will equal a straight looking finish.
> 
> Now to find that in the US.


They are called flush cut dikes.


----------



## Infrabasse

The trouble with straight pliers is they dont compress the sleeve evenly as it cuts through and you end up with a cut that ain't straight and prone to fray.

I use pet nail clippers


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fl0w3n;15378271*
> They are called flush cut dikes.


Why must everything have such weird names...







I found mine under "straight edge snips"
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;15378462*
> The trouble with straight pliers is they dont compress the sleeve evenly as it cuts through and you end up with a cut that ain't straight and prone to fray.
> 
> I use pet nail clippers


Ahh, but you must find one with a small enough head of decent quality.
I actually found one a while ago on ebay, didnt cost me much but snips the sleeve perfectly straight and gives me the perfect area to melt each time.

On a side note, I never liked cutting my own pets nails. Poor dog would always look at me like, "what are you doing to me!"


----------



## Infrabasse

Yup I have my own set of these too


----------



## Badwrench

Some recent extensions:
Yes, they are neon!



















Also some messing around with a spot fan:


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infrabasse;15379651*
> Yup I have my own set of these too
> 
> -img snip-


Ohhh yea I knew that.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench;15379988*
> Some recent extensions:
> Yes, they are neon!
> 
> -img snip-
> 
> Also some messing around with a spot fan:
> -img snip-


Looking nice and clean Mr Wrench.


----------



## Badwrench

Thanks. I have been putting your tool to quite a bit of use. 
Unfortunately, with these extensions, there was a rib that runs on the inside of the connector that was keeping my from putting the precut heatshrink all the way down on the connector, so I just measured where the rib ended and put the end of the shrink there for all the pins.

This one didn't have the rib:


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Badwrench*


Thanks. I have been putting your tool to quite a bit of use. 
Unfortunately, with these extensions, there was a rib that runs on the inside of the connector that was keeping my from putting the precut heatshrink all the way down on the connector, so I just measured where the rib ended and put the end of the shrink there for all the pins.

This one didn't have the rib:
-img snip-


Looks like you have a been a busy guy lol. Keep up the good work, and im glad to hear the tool is working out for you.


----------



## Prpntblr95

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Badwrench*


Some recent extensions:
Yes, they are neon!



















Also some messing around with a spot fan:










Where did you get the neon from? Do they have neon green?


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Prpntblr95*


Where did you get the neon from? Do they have neon green?


FTWpc has both neon green and neon orange paracord. Both are highly uv reactive. Heck, just the flash from my camera makes them glow.


----------



## Prpntblr95

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Badwrench*


FTWpc has both neon green and neon orange paracord. Both are highly uv reactive. Heck, just the flash from my camera makes them glow.


Sweet, Thank you


----------



## kevininsimi

Hey guys, need some help again...









Anyone come across this? Both wires are connected to one pin... don't know how to approach the sleeving!


















The only thing I can think of is sleeve both cables individually but make the sleeve shorter for one cable?


----------



## Tator Tot

If it's FTW PC or MDPC-X you should be able to pull both cables through one sleeve. It'll be tight but you could do it.


----------



## longroadtrip

Those can be a pain. What I do is sleeve them both individually, shrink on both ends..then you put a second layer of shrink over both wires...keep the 1st layer of shrink just short of the connector, that way when you put the second layer on, it will shrink properly onto the pin and fit into the connector.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Just got my MDPC stuff in and been practicing. The SATAs are a snap! The others not so much. I have one good cable, line not entire cable, done. The others I wasn't happy with so will be redoing them. My build log has more!



















All my sleeving - woo that's a lot!


----------



## Gunfire

HOLY CRAP!

Resize your images dude


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gunfire*


HOLY CRAP!

Resize your images dude


+1


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevininsimi*


Hey guys, need some help again...









Anyone come across this? Both wires are connected to one pin... don't know how to approach the sleeving!









-img snip-

The only thing I can think of is sleeve both cables individually but make the sleeve shorter for one cable?


You can try to do both together, but you will have a bunched up peice of HS and/or it will never look exactly like the rest of the pins.

What you need to do is follow the molex video guide I made (link in my sig) for the section on removeing one of the wires off of the double wired pin so that you just have a single wire again. I know its for molex pins but it will work all the same for the eps pins (its important to clean it up right otherwise it wont turn out)

Then find a place on the single wire that will be behind the case and hidden (most likely close to the psu side but in the back of the case) and make a split in the cable and solder in the other wire you removed earlier, making sure to keep the cables the same original length.

Here is a pic I made with crayons.... showing what I mean.









Man that is ugly









Make sure to solder it good and make sure its heatshrunk well. (I prefer to shrink it after sleeving it, but I also put a longer piece of thick HS over the mdpc shrink for looks and safety. You may shrink the split pull the sleeve over it and shrink it again as well.) Otherwise its pretty much sleeving as usual other than the split which shrinking all the outer ends first and then pulling the sleeving tight on all ends and then shrinking it at the split.

If you have any questions please feel free to pm me. I have a video guide for it in the works.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunfire;15390659*
> HOLY CRAP!
> 
> Resize your images dude


Sorry about that didn't notice the new iPhone shoots that high! With 24 down and 6 up I don't notice file size anymore!


----------



## nickbaldwin86

I'll add mine.

FTWpc Paracord

http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-work-logs/1136835-lian-li-first-knight-goes-green.html


----------



## Prpntblr95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;15394018*
> I'll add mine.
> 
> FTWpc Paracord
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-work-logs/1136835-lian-li-first-knight-goes-green.html


I love the mint theme.

Just my $0.02


----------



## flawlesssoul

I'm tackling a sleeve job on my PC (along with some other mods) but am a bit confused as to what to do with the 24pin. Three of the wires leading into the motherboard plug have smaller wires (that travel the entire length of the PSU cable) to the pins.

I've got some slightly larger sleeve than the single-wire size I've been using for the other cables, and since it's white to the normal black it would look better than the standard all-black bunch o' wires. Is it a good idea to go ahead and use the larger sleeve, and perhaps use some smaller diameter shrink that I stretch a bit? This would leave a thinner shrink wall around the two wires.

Pretty sure I can't just remove that extra wire, unfortunately









(Corsair HX750)


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flawlesssoul;15397961*
> I'm tackling a sleeve job on my PC (along with some other mods) but am a bit confused as to what to do with the 24pin. Three of the wires leading into the motherboard plug have smaller wires (that travel the entire length of the PSU cable) to the pins.
> 
> I've got some slightly larger sleeve than the single-wire size I've been using for the other cables, and since it's white to the normal black it would look better than the standard all-black bunch o' wires. Is it a good idea to go ahead and use the larger sleeve, and perhaps use some smaller diameter shrink that I stretch a bit? This would leave a thinner shrink wall around the two wires.
> 
> Pretty sure I can't just remove that extra wire, unfortunately
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Corsair HX750)


Just covered this a page back buddy.

Check out this post: http://www.overclock.net/other-hardware-mods/662039-cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion-566.html#post15392016

If you have any questions please feel free to PM me.


----------



## flawlesssoul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;15397985*
> Just covered this a page back buddy.
> 
> Check out this post: http://www.overclock.net/other-hardware-mods/662039-cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion-566.html#post15392016
> 
> If you have any questions please feel free to PM me.


Thanks for the reply. It's similar, but since the HX750 isn't fully modular, that wire goes all the way to the PCB.

Since I'm not sleeving all the way (I like a single chunky cable coming from the PSU, out behind the motherboard tray, and then split before it goes out in front again) what I'll do is splice that smaller wire into the main one closer to the PSU, and heatshrink it just before the seperate sleeves. I'm keeping the original sleeve on for that last chunky bit, but since it's hidden it won't matter!

Now to see if pulling those chokes off my PCI-E cables will have any negative effect, or figure out how to sleeve with them. Guess I could put them back on _after_ sleeving...


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flawlesssoul;15398386*
> Thanks for the reply. It's similar, but since the HX750 isn't fully modular, that wire goes all the way to the PCB.
> 
> Since I'm not sleeving all the way (I like a single chunky cable coming from the PSU, out behind the motherboard tray, and then split before it goes out in front again) what I'll do is splice that smaller wire into the main one closer to the PSU, and heatshrink it just before the seperate sleeves. I'm keeping the original sleeve on for that last chunky bit, but since it's hidden it won't matter!
> 
> Now to see if pulling those chokes off my PCI-E cables will have any negative effect, or figure out how to sleeve with them. Guess I could put them back on _after_ sleeving...


From what I have read the Ferrite Beads (round metal ring) can be removed, but the cables with the caps soldered in should be left on. But that would be a question for one of our local PSU nerds.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;15398582*
> From what I have read the Ferrite Beads (round metal ring) can be removed, but the cables with the caps soldered in should be left on. But that would be a question for one of our local PSU nerds.


You've got it correct there.

The only down side to removing a ferrite bead is you may have added EMI to your system which may cause issues with sound cards.
Though; I've not personally experienced this.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot;15398720*
> You've got it correct there.
> 
> The only down side to removing a ferrite bead is you may have added EMI to your system which may cause issues with sound cards.
> Though; I've not personally experienced this.


And there ya have it. Thanks Tator.


----------



## flawlesssoul

Thanks chaps


----------



## kevininsimi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;15392016*
> You can try to do both together, but you will have a bunched up peice of HS and/or it will never look exactly like the rest of the pins.
> 
> What you need to do is follow the molex video guide I made (link in my sig) for the section on removeing one of the wires off of the double wired pin so that you just have a single wire again. I know its for molex pins but it will work all the same for the eps pins (its important to clean it up right otherwise it wont turn out)
> 
> Then find a place on the single wire that will be behind the case and hidden (most likely close to the psu side but in the back of the case) and make a split in the cable and solder in the other wire you removed earlier, making sure to keep the cables the same original length.
> 
> Make sure to solder it good and make sure its heatshrunk well. (I prefer to shrink it after sleeving it, but I also put a longer piece of thick HS over the mdpc shrink for looks and safety. You may shrink the split pull the sleeve over it and shrink it again as well.) Otherwise its pretty much sleeving as usual other than the split which shrinking all the outer ends first and then pulling the sleeving tight on all ends and then shrinking it at the split.
> 
> If you have any questions please feel free to pm me. I have a video guide for it in the works.


Thanks for the tip! I'll be sure to work on it when I get my sleeves... lol


----------



## hostilegiraffe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hzac;13437810*
> Excuse me for sounding noobish, because i am. But what is the red and blue connections on the ride hand side? and what is its purpose?


Wont that terminal touch the side panel and short. Seems dangerous, I'd be too nervous.


----------



## kevininsimi

Just finished my 24-pin!!! Man, I'm so proud of my work! Although, I might have to fix the heatshrink. I'll post a picture as soon as I can.

Thanks again for the help guys! Now I'm just waiting for my FT02 to arrive


----------



## Monocog007

Here's my sleeving tools.







PM me if you need instructions to make them. I have:

Lutro0 tool available from the amazing Lutro0 himself.







(What a great guy!)
2 staples sanded at the ends, straightened, and soldered together, covered in heatshrink.
A nail that was filed flat at the end, and then drilled out, also covered in heatshrink pieces.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hostilegiraffe;15439278*
> Wont that terminal touch the side panel and short. Seems dangerous, I'd be too nervous.


If the terminal is set right the case side wont touch it and shouldnt be able to. Also if the case side is painted it has at least a little buffer if you were to somehow happen to bump it, but again if its placed right in a case it shouldnt be an issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevininsimi;15439957*
> Just finished my 24-pin!!! Man, I'm so proud of my work! Although, I might have to fix the heatshrink. I'll post a picture as soon as I can.
> 
> Thanks again for the help guys! Now I'm just waiting for my FT02 to arrive


Awesome, look forward to the pics bud.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Monocog007;15442554*
> Here's my sleeving tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PM me if you need instructions to make them. I have:
> 
> Lutro0 tool available from the amazing Lutro0 himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (What a great guy!)
> 2 staples sanded at the ends, straightened, and soldered together, covered in heatshrink.
> A nail that was filed flat at the end, and then drilled out, also covered in heatshrink pieces.


Thanks for the kind words and being willing to show others how to make those tools.


----------



## kevininsimi

Gentlemen (and ladies)...

I present to you n00b sleeving by me, Kevin! Pardon the picture quality


































That was a lot of work but it was pretty fun! Lessons learned:
1. Buy pre-cut shrink.
2. Try not to prick your fingers with staples.
3. Don't get the lighter too close to your fingers.

I also wanted your opinions on the 24-pin... what do you guys think about the blue? Originally, my intentions were to include blue for some contrast but as I began sleeving the other cables, I went with all black.









Now, what the heck do I do with the leftover sleeve?


----------



## Doc1355

Here are my sleeves..not the best quality but i hope you like it!


----------



## shnur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevininsimi;15470498*
> Gentlemen (and ladies)...
> 
> I present to you n00b sleeving by me, Kevin! Pardon the picture quality
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*
> That was a lot of work but it was pretty fun! Lessons learned:
> 1. Buy pre-cut shrink.
> 2. Try not to prick your fingers with staples.
> 3. Don't get the lighter too close to your fingers.
> 
> I also wanted your opinions on the 24-pin... what do you guys think about the blue? Originally, my intentions were to include blue for some contrast but as I began sleeving the other cables, I went with all black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, what the heck do I do with the leftover sleeve?


I think that because you're going into dark colors, you will have more success with doubling the amount of blue if you have it in the sides. It's very hard to simply add only one or 2 wires and have a good contrast when the main color is dark.

Leftover sleeve? Put it in a box, buy more computers, sleeve more!

Also try with a heatgun, makes more even results.

If your hands hurt too much, take pliers and hold up the sleeve while heatshrinking!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc1355;15476028*
> Here are my sleeves..not the best quality but i hope you like it!


I do!!!









It's a very clean/even job.
You might want to have the heatshrink more into the connector itself, you'll have less chance of it sliding.

Great job on your first (?) job!


----------



## Doc1355

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur;15476304*
> I do!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a very clean/even job.
> You might want to have the heatshrink more into the connector itself, you'll have less chance of it sliding.
> 
> Great job on your first (?) job!


Yes it was my first time doing it!
I already fixed the heatshrink..the photos are since 2 months ago hehe!


----------



## longroadtrip

New front panel switches and connectors. (Used 2 USB connectors to eliminate all the little connectors)


----------



## Lutro0

And we need some more pics in here. Here is some paracord work I have been working on. I plan on doing alot more of them as time permits and in alot of different colors. The only gripe I have is that paracord likes to snag sometimes. So I need to go back and replace the ones that have little snags on them. However, you only see them when you macro it. =P



























Switching lens.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

You can wrap black tape around the metal clips so that the para-cord doesn't get snagged.

Looks good, but those snags look nasty.

Also, no heat shrink?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;15506406*
> You can wrap black tape around the metal clips so that the para-cord doesn't get snagged.
> 
> Looks good, but those snags look nasty.
> 
> Also, no heat shrink?


Ah yes, I use masking take and a few of them still got snagged. But that was more of lutro0 being lazy than anything. Watching tv at the same time doesnt work well for me.

And yea, no heatshrink. I am working on ways to keep prices down on extensions and if we can cut out the cost of heatshrink then why not. I like the clean look as well, and with the way I have done it the cables are stiffer and the sleeving will not move even if pulled.

AlsOooO yes, the snags look terribad. I will end up redoing those cables, but its 2 AM in the morn and I decided to post them anyhow lol.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

I like the look of the no heat shrink. thanks for the idea









I am guessing you just need to make the sleeving extra long to insure that it stays in both ends. simple enough.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;15509432*
> I like the look of the no heat shrink. thanks for the idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am guessing you just need to make the sleeving extra long to insure that it stays in both ends. simple enough.


Well there is a few more steps to it, but Im fine tuning it and me and my wife will be making some sets. It will be great to get her interested in my hobby.









Ok so fixed up the lame wires and some more pics. (more on my guide thread)


----------



## Jamyy10

Hello guys, its time for me to start thinking about sleeving the cables on my scout to get it finished. But im trying to do it without spending over £50. Now im not sure if that can be done but thats what im in this section for

I have just got a new motherboard, the Asus Sabertooth 990FX which is a military themed motherboard. So i have decided to go with the green and gray colour scheme. So i found these tools and they were £16.45 including p&p from special tech.

Here is the sleeve and the heatshrink i need

Titanium gray 7.95 euros (£6.81)

Combat green 7.95 euros (£6.81)

x2 Pre-cut small black heatshrink 7.98 (£6.84)

Parts total: 23.88 euros (£20.47)
VAT: 3.81 euros (£3.26)
Shipping: 7.00 (£6.00)

Total: £29.73 + tools £16.45 = £46.18

Now will 20 meters be enough for my whole case excluding the 24Pin and the 8Pin which i am not doing? Well i am buying a 30cm 8 pin extension for my cpu power cable and i have got a 30cm 24Pin extension, so those will need sleeving as well because they are the wrong colour.

So will i have enough???? I will be sleeving pretty much everything in my case.

Thanks


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamyy10;15536119*
> Hello guys, its time for me to start thinking about sleeving the cables on my scout to get it finished. But im trying to do it without spending over £50. Now im not sure if that can be done but thats what im in this section for
> 
> I have just got a new motherboard, the Asus Sabertooth 990FX which is a military themed motherboard. So i have decided to go with the green and gray colour scheme. So i found these tools and they were £16.45 including p&p from special tech.
> 
> Here is the sleeve and the heatshrink i need
> 
> Titanium gray 7.95 euros (£6.81)
> 
> Combat green 7.95 euros (£6.81)
> 
> x2 Pre-cut small black heatshrink 7.98 (£6.84)
> 
> Parts total: 23.88 euros (£20.47)
> VAT: 3.81 euros (£3.26)
> Shipping: 7.00 (£6.00)
> 
> Total: £29.73 + tools £16.45 = £46.18
> 
> Now will 20 meters be enough for my whole case excluding the 24Pin and the 8Pin which i am not doing? Well i am buying a 30cm 8 pin extension for my cpu power cable and i have got a 30cm 24Pin extension, so those will need sleeving as well because they are the wrong colour.
> 
> So will i have enough???? I will be sleeving pretty much everything in my case.
> 
> Thanks


Your best bet is to measure out everything and look up the specs on the power supply to get the exact measurement. I have wrote up a guide on my sleeving thread (link in my sig) that will give you the best method for this, its located under the sleeving video guides in the FAQ section.

If you have any questions on it please feel free to send me a pm.


----------



## Jamyy10

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Your best bet is to measure out everything and look up the specs on the power supply to get the exact measurement. I have wrote up a guide on my sleeving thread (link in my sig) that will give you the best method for this, its located under the sleeving video guides in the FAQ section.

If you have any questions on it please feel free to send me a pm.










Thanks Lutro0 for the info, will tear my PC apart and have a measure up today!
Funnily enough I stumbled across your thread yesterday night and started watching some of your videos, I was quite impressed! Just to let you know i will be watching more.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jamyy10*


Thanks Lutro0 for the info, will tear my PC apart and have a measure up today!
Funnily enough I stumbled across your thread yesterday night and started watching some of your videos, I was quite impressed! Just to let you know i will be watching more.










Glad to hear! If you need any extra help just ask.


----------



## Jamyy10

I have ordered 40M of titanium Gray and combat green sleeving and 200 pieces of pre cut heat shrink to go with my combat theme that comes with the asus sabertooth 990FX!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jamyy10*


I have ordered 40M of titanium Gray and combat green sleeving and 200 pieces of pre cut heat shrink to go with my combat theme that comes with the asus sabertooth 990FX!

-img snip-


That sir, will look phenominal.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

That color combo will look bauss ^^


----------



## JivePilot

I was thinking of sleeving my stuff. I thought about it and decided that it would be a waste of time and money.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JivePilot;15546455*
> I was thinking of sleeving my stuff. I thought about it and decided that it would be a waste of time and money.


If you have nothing to contribute to this thread, kindly dont post. We respect your opinion but please try to only add content that will help the thead.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JivePilot;15546455*
> I was thinking of sleeving my stuff. I thought about it and decided that it would be a waste of time and money.


I wish there was a way to give people -1 rep









Thanks for sharing
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;15546522*
> If you have nothing to contribute to this thread, kindly dont post. We respect your opinion but please try to only add content that will help the thead.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamyy10;15543563*
> I have ordered 40M of titanium Gray and combat green sleeving and 200 pieces of pre cut heat shrink to go with my combat theme that comes with the asus sabertooth 990FX!


You do know sir, that pictures of the finish product are a requirement here. If you dont post a picture when you are done, you should be written up. Carry on

Seriously, now seeing that, I want to go build another rig with a Sabertooth MOBO and the same sleeving. Hope it turns out as good as it looked to be.


----------



## NFL

Can I get an estimate on how much white paracord I'll need to sleeve this? And what would my cheapest high quality option be?

EDIT-NVM, it seems that I may not be ready to commit to an idea yet...this thread may explain better than I can


----------



## Lutro0

Some paracord nummyness.


----------



## solsamurai

So paracord is like shoe laces?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai;15577339*
> So paracord is like shoe laces?


Almost exactly...









It can be streched to have some stiffness, but it needs to be worked on right. But yea its a nylon blend and feels soft to the touch.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;15577393*
> Almost exactly...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It can be streched to have some stiffness, but it needs to be worked on right. But yea its a nylon blend and feels soft to the touch.


Would you say it's easier/harder to work with than the other materials?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai;15577447*
> Would you say it's easier/harder to work with than the other materials?


Most def harder. I say that because its soft and not easy to train. It kind of does what it wants so you need to put in extra effort to get it to stay how you want. On top of that it tends to snag on almost everything so you need to tape each wire before use.

But the cheapness factor and color variety are the upsides of the material.


----------



## solsamurai

Good to know, thanks!


----------



## NFL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JivePilot;15546455*
> I was thinking of sleeving my stuff. I thought about it and decided that it would be a waste of time and money.


[ame="



]


----------



## emiven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFL;15577755*






http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3bImBBTaPDY&feature=related[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## Jamyy10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking;15548887*
> You do know sir, that pictures of the finish product are a requirement here. If you dont post a picture when you are done, you should be written up. Carry on
> 
> Seriously, now seeing that, I want to go build another rig with a Sabertooth MOBO and the same sleeving. Hope it turns out as good as it looked to be.


Don't worry you will see pictures







And thanks, I hope it turns out well too, after all I have been infected by the OCD plague







Anyway, I need to do a good job, I don't want to be spending £70 on sleeving and equipment just to do a bad job. All I would need to do is paint my case then it would really be a combat theme


----------



## emiven

hi guys! i'm thinking of getting my hx850 sleeved, but im not sure what colour i should get.
any sugestions?
i'm also going to change my ram, to some black ones


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emiven;15581433*
> hi guys! i'm thinking of getting my hx850 sleeved, but im not sure what colour i should get.
> any sugestions?
> i'm also going to change my ram, to some black ones


Ahh, well with that mobo, it leave the colors kinda up to you. Nothing in your case aside from the psu stickers screams any certian color.

However, being you have a sabertooth p67, you have some awesome choices from mdpc-x. I will post some color links below.

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve/sleeve-small-black.htm

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve/sleeve-small-vanilla-sands-n.17.htm

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve/sleeve-small-copper-brown.htm

Personally I think a Black and Vanilla mix would be amazing. But its up to you. Here is a link to the rest of the colors.

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve.htm

You may also choose to do paracord, in which a simple google image search for "paracord colors" will show you many different charts of the colors available.


----------



## emiven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;15581505*
> Ahh, well with that mobo, it leave the colors kinda up to you. Nothing in your case aside from the psu stickers screams any certian color.
> 
> However, being you have a sabertooth p67, you have some awesome choices from mdpc-x. I will post some color links below.
> 
> http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve/sleeve-small-black.htm
> 
> http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve/sleeve-small-vanilla-sands-n.17.htm
> 
> http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve/sleeve-small-copper-brown.htm
> 
> Personally I think a Black and Vanilla mix would be amazing. But its up to you. Here is a link to the rest of the colors.
> 
> http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve.htm
> 
> You may also choose to do paracord, in which a simple google image search for "paracord colors" will show you many different charts of the colors available.


the vanilla/black mix would look amazing.
maybe i should get some noctua fans with the sleeve?

EDIT: i drew the sleeve on paint


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emiven;15581710*
> the vanilla/black mix would look amazing.
> maybe i should get some noctua fans with the sleeve?
> 
> EDIT: i drew the sleeve on paint


Well if you do the noctua fans you should throw some of that copper brown in there as well. As it would tie in nice.


----------



## Lutro0

Double Poast... Sorry. =)
-edit- And I had a derp moment, could have just added it to my post above. lol

Had to share some photos I just took.


----------



## shnur

Thanks for not editing; I saw it









I think light blue & black are the best colors together... this is amazing!


----------



## Jo0

Got my 100ft Black and 100ft Charcoal Grey Paracord in the mail yesterday. I'm going to fry's monday to get 3/16 Black and White heatshrink. I'm excited to sleeve my AX850.

I'm going to make a custom cable. I'll have 3 HDDs and 1 DVD drive powered in series with DIY crimp SATA connectors. Is it okay if I add one or two 4 pin molex connectors at the end for my fan controller and future possible water pump? There should be enough power going through that rail to handle all of those devices right?


----------



## shnur

You should be ok; I think 200ft is a little overkill; I had enough of ~50ft to sleeve my 750W PSU









For the power concern; I don't think you'll run into an issue except if you're running 10+ fans that are over 3k RPM.


----------



## ekg84

Just finished sleeving my 1st power supply, dont be too harsh on me







Its very simplistic fully black sleeving, but i kinda like it this way.


----------



## shnur

Looks great! You'll get perfect results when you do your second one


----------



## Jo0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur;15586547*
> You should be ok; I think 200ft is a little overkill; I had enough of ~50ft to sleeve my 750W PSU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the power concern; I don't think you'll run into an issue except if you're running 10+ fans that are over 3k RPM.


I got the 100ft black for $7 and 100ft grey for $9 on amazon using Prime. So I figured why not.

My FC-2 will be powering AP-15s so I think I'll be fine. Thanks! Cant wait!!!!


----------



## shnur

Oh yeah at that price you're set for life lol


----------



## goodtobeking

Love that look Lutro0, I am thinking of doing the same pattern, but with electric blue and charcoal grey. What blue is that in your last pic post?? And is that Heatshrinkless sleeving in your guide yet?? I seen most the videos and havnt seen that one I guess.

Keep up the great work, you make OCN proud like always.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking;15587722*
> Love that look Lutro0, I am thinking of doing the same pattern, but with electric blue and charcoal grey. What blue is that in your last pic post?? And is that Heatshrinkless sleeving in your guide yet?? I seen most the videos and havnt seen that one I guess.
> 
> Keep up the great work, you make OCN proud like always.


The blue in those photos is an aquamarine - I made that one to match most ASUS Mobos.

However, I will not be doing a guide for the heatshrinkless method as its a project for me and my wife. Please refer to the link in my sig and it will explain it more.

I appreciate the kind words. I should have another sleeving video coming up here shortly.


----------



## goodtobeking

Aqua marine is more liek the blue in Asus boards?? I may end up going that way then. I thought electric blue looked closer, but hard to tell comparing a picture on a monitor to a dark case. Thanks for the input


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking;15587980*
> Aqua marine is more liek the blue in Asus boards?? I may end up going that way then. I thought electric blue looked closer, but hard to tell comparing a picture on a monitor to a dark case. Thanks for the input


Yea my pictures dont do it justice, Im still learning how to keep the natural color and what not. If you look at the banner on that thread though it shows the true color a tad more. And no problem man anytime.


----------



## Jamyy10

Hey guys, I'm hoping to get my sleeving tomorrow, but I'm lost as to what i should do on the 24pin colour wise. I'm not sure whether to do 12 green and 12 gray or do just odd strands. I will do the 6PIN PCI, Sata/molex and front panel wires 1 of each colour if you see what i mean.

What do you guys think i should do?


----------



## shnur

You can open MS Paint and paint stuff around and look which ones looks best


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jamyy10*


Hey guys, I'm hoping to get my sleeving tomorrow, but I'm lost as to what i should do on the 24pin colour wise. I'm not sure whether to do 12 green and 12 gray or do just odd strands. I will do the 6PIN PCI, Sata/molex and front panel wires 1 of each colour if you see what i mean.

What do you guys think i should do?


Kinda hard to say what YOU like.

If anything you should go for a combo/pattern that you appreciate.

For instance I went with Red/White/Black sleeve and my 24 pin went RWBBBWRBBBRW

When you get the sleeving try mixing and matching pieces to see what looks best.


----------



## Jo0

What you can do is just lay strands of it side by side on the table. or make a combo and clasp it in your fingers or hands and put it inside your case to visualize


----------



## Lutro0

So much camera fun lately. =)


----------



## Johnsen

I might just try to buy some paracord and some heat shrink, just cause its so dang cheap. Is is easy to remove the inner stuff in paracord?

Also: What size in "mm" should i get for paracord and shrink tube?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnsen;15602038*
> I might just try to buy some paracord and some heat shrink, just cause its so dang cheap. Is is easy to remove the inner stuff in paracord?
> 
> Also: What size in "mm" should i get for paracord and shrink tube?


Very easy to remove the innards, for how to use it, please check out my sleeving video guides in my sig.

Also 450-550 paracord is what you will want to buy, and 1/4 3:1 HS or 4:1 HS Thin Walled is what you will want to buy. There are links to both of those in my guide.


----------



## Jo0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Very easy to remove the innards, for how to use it, please check out my sleeving video guides in my sig.

Also 450-550 paracord is what you will want to buy, and 1/4 3:1 HS or 4:1 HS Thin Walled is what you will want to buy. There are links to both of those in my guide.


Is it okay if I buy 3/16 heatshrink from fry's? I dont know what the shrink ratio is on their heat shrink.

Received my Sunbeam PSU Tool kit today. I cant get a single ATX pin out of my AX850 for the life of me. GAHH!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jo0;15611047*
> Is it okay if I buy 3/16 heatshrink from fry's? I dont know what the shrink ratio is on their heat shrink.
> 
> Received my Sunbeam PSU Tool kit today. I cant get a single ATX pin out of my AX850 for the life of me. GAHH!


I think that the HS there might be 2:1, and although it can be used it is not recommended as it won't shrink as tight as it needs to be. 3:1 should be the lowest HS ratio I would use.

Also most 550 paracord is about 3/16 already or close to it, so it would be hardish to put it on right. Not impossible just a pain.

As with the removal of pins, I can't speak for that psu tool kit. But I know some pins are harder to remove, I have a method shown on the mdpc sleeving video, where you basically wrap the wire around your finger and brace it against the pin and use the connector as leverage, first you push the pin inward then push the tool down, then follow the method. If that doesn't make sense watch the video.

I wish you luck on your sleeving, if you have any more questions please feel free to ask.


----------



## Jo0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;15612636*
> I think that the HS there might be 2:1, and although it can be used it is not recommended as it won't shrink as tight as it needs to be. 3:1 should be the lowest HS ratio I would use.
> 
> Also most 550 paracord is about 3/16 already or close to it, so it would be hardish to put it on right. Not impossible just a pain.
> 
> As with the removal of pins, I can't speak for that psu tool kit. But I know some pins are harder to remove, I have a method shown on the mdpc sleeving video, where you basically wrap the wire around your finger and brace it against the pin and use the connector as leverage, first you push the pin inward then push the tool down, then follow the method. If that doesn't make sense watch the video.
> 
> I wish you luck on your sleeving, if you have any more questions please feel free to ask.


Is there a place I can buy 3:1 heatshrink locally?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jo0;15613384*
> Is there a place I can buy 3:1 heatshrink locally?


I am not sure, I know I never had any luck finding any where I am as its kind of a specific product. Try a hardware shop and such. I do know that the shipping was fast for the one on my sleeving guide page, and it's the cheapest I've ever seen.


----------



## Jo0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;15613503*
> I am not sure, I know I never had any luck finding any where I am as its kind of a specific product. Try a hardware shop and such. I do know that the shipping was fast for the one on my sleeving guide page, and it's the cheapest I've ever seen.


Nice the one in your guide is located in DFW Metroplex. $5 shipping for me, but an hour's drive for will call. Hmmm...









MDPC heatshrink is 3/4" 4:1 heatshrink right? Or is it something alot smaller. I wouldnt mind picking these up if they give that tight fit that mdpc heatshrink gives. http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=6890397


----------



## mortimersnerd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jo0;15614278*
> Nice the one in your guide is located in DFW Metroplex. $5 shipping for me, but an hour's drive for will call. Hmmm...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MDPC heatshrink is 3/4" 4:1 heatshrink right? Or is it something alot smaller. I wouldnt mind picking these up if they give that tight fit that mdpc heatshrink gives. http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=6890397


You'll want something closer to 1/4".


----------



## Jo0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mortimersnerd;15617800*
> You'll want something closer to 1/4".


Ouch the closest 4:1 heat shrink 1/4" is $41 per 12ft,and that's the only increment they sell by.


----------



## Jo0

Would doubling up on 3/16" 2:1 look bad?

Say I shrink one cut, then over lap it with another cut and shrink it again.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jo0;15617936*
> Ouch the closest 4:1 heat shrink 1/4" is $41 per 12ft,and that's the only increment they sell by.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jo0;15620420*
> Would doubling up on 3/16" 2:1 look bad?
> 
> Say I shrink one cut, then over lap it with another cut and shrink it again.


The 3:1 I linked to is what you will be wanting to buy. The reason you want it to shrink tight is not only to hold the sleeve in place but so that you can put the shrink inside the connector as well, which in turn holds everything right as well as looks clean. So if you were to double it up it wouldnt fit inside the connector. If you havent watched the video guides I have made (link in my sig) I suggest you give them a look as it will make sense why you need only certian kinds.


----------



## Jo0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0;15623046*
> The 3:1 I linked to is what you will be wanting to buy. The reason you want it to shrink tight is not only to hold the sleeve in place but so that you can put the shrink inside the connector as well, which in turn holds everything right as well as looks clean. So if you were to double it up it wouldnt fit inside the connector. If you havent watched the video guides I have made (link in my sig) I suggest you give them a look as it will make sense why you need only certian kinds.


Yeah I watched them twice.

I've decided to buy MDPC heatshrink. Also I'm going to buy the pin remover from MDPC. I filed off part of the sunbeam tool and I think I over did it. :/


----------



## Doc1355

So i did the sleeving on a friends 600t!!!
Hope you guys like it..


----------



## Badwrench

Looks good. I like the teal/grey/black combo complete with matching shrink. Good job.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc1355*
> 
> So i did the sleeving on a friends 600t!!!
> Hope you guys like it..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Snip-


Looks really good! Makes me miss my 600t. Really like that custom window too!


----------



## Lutro0

Some work I did last night. Need to work on the lighting lol.


----------



## ontic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Some work I did last night. Need to work on the lighting lol.


Your so talented


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ontic*
> 
> Your so talented


Thanks man! I have another set done, just need to take some pics.


----------



## ontic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Thanks man! I have another set done, just need to take some pics.


No worries bloke, keep up the good work.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ontic*
> 
> No worries bloke, keep up the good work.


Thanks buddy, as promised here is some more photos, and lol some more on the way yet again tommarro.


----------



## Doc1355

Nice and clean work Lutro0!!
Keep up this beautiful sleeving..


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc1355*
> 
> Nice and clean work Lutro0!!
> Keep up this beautiful sleeving..


Thanks buddy!

Also, I am in need of everyones help. I am trying to compile a nice sized Sleeving FAQ. Would you guys mind going to this link http://www.overclock.net/a/lutro0s-frequently-asked-sleeving-questions And adding any questions that might be missing. It would be much appreciated.


----------



## fshizl

Lutro your extensions are looking real nice man!


----------



## obsidian86

does anyone know of multicolored sleeving something 2 tone specifically black and gold


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obsidian86*
> 
> does anyone know of multicolored sleeving something 2 tone specifically black and gold


Not sure about black and gold, but I did see an "Ogre" sleeving that was black and green. Looked sweet, dont remember who made it, but was a couple pages back


----------



## Lutro0

Here is some more pics of some ones I did for the an asus board. Sorry for the constant pics, I shall stop if its too much.







Figure we need to keep this thread going.


----------



## shnur

Sweeeeeeeeeeet!

Well; lets say that after sleeving a system; you don't sleeve much else









You on the other hand sleeve for everybody and all


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Here is some more pics of some ones I did for the an asus board. Sorry for the constant pics, I shall stop if its too much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Figure we need to keep this thread going.


Dood you really like paracord!







keep the pics coming! The thread needs it!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Dood you really like paracord!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> keep the pics coming! The thread needs it!


I dont know if I would say I really like paracord. But I will say that it can be an awesome sleeving medium if used right and colored correctly.


----------



## viper522

Loving that Asus jobber. Mated it perfectly.


----------



## ontic

Here's a couple of pics from my build log.


----------



## shnur

So much win... I love it!


----------



## Lidrager

My first cable with paracord 550.


----------



## Doc1355

Some photos of the fixed heatshrink








Νοt the best quality but the best is yet to come


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ontic*
> 
> Here's a couple of pics from my build log.
> -img snip-


I love it, great attention to detail bud!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lidrager*
> 
> My first cable with paracord 550.
> -img snip-


Great Job Bud!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc1355*
> 
> Some photos of the fixed heatshrink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Νοt the best quality but the best is yet to come
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -img snip-


Look awesome, keep up the clean work man!


----------



## Doc1355

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Look awesome, keep up the clean work man!


Thanks m8


----------



## Lidrager

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Great Job Bud!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


Thanks! I just finished Power and Reset cables.


----------



## Lutro0

A little surprise. =)





































Oh yes I did.


----------



## ontic

BooOOM! Haha love it


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ontic*
> 
> BooOOM! Haha love it


Thanks buddy!


----------



## SmasherBasher

Cheater


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*
> 
> Cheater


WHAT! I dont... ok well maybe a little.


----------



## Lidrager

Let me guess: more heat for heat shrink to melt the sleeve plastic, same method to do with paracord.


----------



## CyberDruid

I'm working with some MDPC-X sleeve now and it's frustrating me. I pull it as tight as possible and it slips back out. Going to give it another go today. I have a tremendous amount of perspicacity and it's not like I don't know how to do it...but for some reason it keeps slipping out of the shrink. Grrrrrr:sozo:


----------



## Doc1355

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyberDruid*
> 
> I'm working with some MDPC-X sleeve now and it's frustrating me. I pull it as tight as possible and it slips back out. Going to give it another go today. I have a tremendous amount of perspicacity and it's not like I don't know how to do it...but for some reason it keeps slipping out of the shrink. Grrrrrr:sozo:


Make sure the heatshrink goes into the housing while its still warm!


----------



## CyberDruid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc1355*
> 
> Make sure the heatshrink goes into the housing while its still warm!


Doing that. I'll get back to you on what happens in Round Two of CyberDruid versus the PSU.

My guess is I am overdoing the "stretch the sleeve as tight as possible" part. I have some strong fingers...and I get that sleeve so tight and rigid the cables are almost inflexible. The slightest bend and POP goes the sleeve out from under the shrink. Maybe I just need to relax a bit...


----------



## Doc1355

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyberDruid*
> 
> Doing that. I'll get back to you on what happens in Round Two of CyberDruid versus the PSU.
> My guess is I am overdoing the "stretch the sleeve as tight as possible" part. I have some strong fingers...and I get that sleeve so tight and rigid the cables are almost inflexible. The slightest bend and POP goes the sleeve out from under the shrink. Maybe I just need to relax a bit...


Or you just have to cut it a little bit longer so it will not be to tight when you stretch it


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lidrager*
> 
> Let me guess: more heat for heat shrink to melt the sleeve plastic, same method to do with paracord.


Close, but my method is somewhat more involved, both material wise and detail wise.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyberDruid*
> 
> I'm working with some MDPC-X sleeve now and it's frustrating me. I pull it as tight as possible and it slips back out. Going to give it another go today. I have a tremendous amount of perspicacity and it's not like I don't know how to do it...but for some reason it keeps slipping out of the shrink. Grrrrrr:sozo:


Im not about to spit advice out because I have no idea your sleeving methods, however I will extend my hand of help if you would like it. Just shoot me a PM and I will help you figure it out. I can however say I have those things super tight and they have not ever slipped out on me, so im sure its a simple fix.


----------



## ontic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyberDruid*
> 
> Doing that. I'll get back to you on what happens in Round Two of CyberDruid versus the PSU.
> My guess is I am overdoing the "stretch the sleeve as tight as possible" part. I have some strong fingers...and I get that sleeve so tight and rigid the cables are almost inflexible. The slightest bend and POP goes the sleeve out from under the shrink. Maybe I just need to relax a bit...


Yup I think you've answered your own problem, I'd say your pulling the sleeve way too tight. I'm new too sleeving as well, maybe this guide will help (depending on the look your after), if all else fails pay someone to make you some extensions


----------



## CyberDruid

I'm getting some acceptable results now. Very time consuming. Back is killing me from sitting at the bench, I usually stand all day.








Got a little bit done and then it was time to get the kids off the bus. After that not much PC stuff happens around here..

Not thrilled with how Corsair has their modular cables laid out...2 plugs at the PSU, split wire from those two plugs to one pin on the mobo plug, all different gauge wires, only 23 wires in the 24 pin plug...just stupid. If ever there was a PSU that you would want to use a 24 pin extension on this would be the one (ATX 1200),

Not to mention weighted PCIe cables, I guess I'll just end the sleeve before the weight. Can't see wrapping a sleeved wire around it...


----------



## Doc1355

I think that you have to move the heatshrink a little bit more to the sleeving..thats why you have the issue!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyberDruid*
> 
> I'm getting some acceptable results now. Very time consuming. Back is killing me from sitting at the bench, I usually stand all day.
> Got a little bit done and then it was time to get the kids off the bus. After that not much PC stuff happens around here..
> Not thrilled with how Corsair has their modular cables laid out...2 plugs at the PSU, split wire from those two plugs to one pin on the mobo plug, all different gauge wires, only 23 wires in the 24 pin plug...just stupid. If ever there was a PSU that you would want to use a 24 pin extension on this would be the one (ATX 1200),
> Not to mention weighted PCIe cables, I guess I'll just end the sleeve before the weight. Can't see wrapping a sleeved wire around it...


Those weights are ferrite beads (most of the time or caps) and most of the time can be taken off for a cleaner result (but if they are caps I would leave them). Tator Tot can come in here and confirm.







Also for stronger/cleaner results you will want the sleeve right up if not a little bit into the connector, that allows more surface area for the heatshrink to grab onto. I wish you luck on your sleeving adventure CD, its kinda crazy when you just start.


----------



## Tator Tot

AX1200 just uses ferrite beads, they don't have caps on the cables.

So you can take them off without an issue.

The only PSU that really needs the caps on the cables is the Antec True Power Quattro 1200w. Silverstone uses capacitors on their Strider Series of PSU's on the PCIe cables, but they don't have to be there.


----------



## Lidrager

CD: You can follow Ontic' s guide, make sure it is hot enough to melt the plastic then u can take the heat shrink out of. And enjoy the result!


----------



## CyberDruid

Yeah I think I will have to start over on the sleeve. It looks bad.

But it was better than yesterday.


----------



## shnur

Sleeving takes a lot of time at the beginning; I remember how many issues I had on my first sleeving job.









Over time it becomes easier







Just keep trying and you'll get there


----------



## Lutro0

Latest MDPC work.


----------



## Jo0

Shipping from MDPC is about two weeks right? Nills said it shipped this past monday. I did some google searches, some people said they got it within a week or two weeks. What's the shipping time looking like lately?


----------



## Doc1355

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jo0*
> 
> Shipping from MDPC is about two weeks right? Nills said it shipped this past monday. I did some google searches, some people said they got it within a week or two weeks. What's the shipping time looking like lately?


My MDPC shipment took 4 days (Athens-Greece)!!!
It depends on many things actually..a friend of mine made the order and 2 days later the post officers started a strike..so the whole thing took about 10 days


----------



## shnur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Latest MDPC work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*


Blasphemy! No heatshrink MDPC...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jo0*
> 
> Shipping from MDPC is about two weeks right? Nills said it shipped this past monday. I did some google searches, some people said they got it within a week or two weeks. What's the shipping time looking like lately?


Depends; usually comes in ~ 1 week to Canada


----------



## Lidrager

For OCN members who like military style ^^: Rothco 550lb Desert Camo Paracord with ASUS Sabertooth X58.

No flash:


With flash:


----------



## CyberDruid

Well it took a bit of rework but I am starting to get the hand of this style of sleeve.










How does that look?


----------



## shnur

Great, that's first time? 

The 5th white wire is a little off, as the bottom black one. Otherwise it's perfection!


----------



## Lutro0

Mucho better CD!


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Dang cyber you did work on that sleeving this time around









Nice job!


----------



## CyberDruid

It's better. That's about all I can say. I know what is possible...I just don't know if I want to keep reworking it to get there.


----------



## longroadtrip

Looking a lot better CD! It just takes a while to get used to each brand of sleeving and HS...Once you get it worked out, it goes a lot faster with a much less rework..be patient and stick with it..you are doing great!

I'm a big fan of your other work!


----------



## rockcoeur

Do you guys know any good extensions kit (sleeved or unsleeved) that are rather cheap?

I know this must be asked quite a lot, but I don't feel like reading through all of the posts!









Thanks!


----------



## goodtobeking

Here are some extensions from FTWPC. Site is ran by a couple MODs here at OCN. So you can buy with confidence and help support OCN members.

In the options, you can either chose sleeved or unsleeved.


----------



## CyberDruid

When in doubt support your local case modders. I am always impressed when people devote time and resources to improving the community...look at how many vendors and artisans there are here on OCN. They are not going to succeed without our support.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyberDruid*
> 
> When in doubt support your local case modders. I am always impressed when people devote time and resources to improving the community...look at how many vendors and artisans there are here on OCN. They are not going to succeed without our support.










Awesome words CD.


----------



## CyberDruid

If I was a new join to OCN I would be amazed at what all you can get without ever leaving the site. Having watched it grow was pretty cool too. What seems weird to me is that people will tell all these guys how awesome their work is but never buy anything, then post threads about the thousands of dollars of stuff they bought elsewhere. If only 1% of the stuff that people crow about was purchased from our homegrown Vendors and Artisans they would be able to expand and thrive.

It's sort of how everyone complains about the U.S. economy and then goes to WalMart and buys stuff made in China.


----------



## shnur

That's why I have your amazing waterfall reservoir, fstfrddy waterblock and Lutro0's sleeving tool
















OCN


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur*
> 
> That's why I have your amazing waterfall reservoir, fstfrddy waterblock and Lutro0's sleeving tool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OCN


Your an awesome supporter shnur!









Here is some 6pins I finished last night.


----------



## Nemesis158

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Your an awesome supporter shnur!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some 6pins I finished last night.
> snip*


How's come you didnt post those pics where i could find em easily








on a more serious note:


----------



## CyberDruid

^This


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Has anyone bought sleeve from furryletters in the last few weeks? I bought some and requested twice that he send me payment info but I haven't heard from him in a fortnight. Trying to go through and cancel the sale because I'm sick of waiting but I don't know how and when I try to go through the resolution center, it asks me when I paid for the goods but I obviously can't yet... grrrr. ebay is so infuriating.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nemesis158*
> 
> How's come you didnt post those pics where i could find em easily
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on a more serious note:


I did lol, they are in my extension sale thread as well.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyberDruid*
> 
> ^This


Thanks buddy!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*
> 
> Has anyone bought sleeve from furryletters in the last few weeks? I bought some and requested twice that he send me payment info but I haven't heard from him in a fortnight. Trying to go through and cancel the sale because I'm sick of waiting but I don't know how and when I try to go through the resolution center, it asks me when I paid for the goods but I obviously can't yet... grrrr. ebay is so infuriating.


I would give him a call, and if the rate is too much I wouldn't mind giving him a call for you? Just let me know, hes normally on top of those things, I have never heard of him not sending something.


----------



## Nemesis158

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I did lol, they are in my extension sale thread as well.


my bad, page refresh wasn't showing them for me last night


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nemesis158*
> 
> my bad, page refresh wasn't showing them for me last night


No problemo homie, they are in the mail and on the way.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I would give him a call, and if the rate is too much I wouldn't mind giving him a call for you? Just let me know, hes normally on top of those things, I have never heard of him not sending something.


Managed to figure it out after a while. Sent him a message asking him to cancel the sale since I couldn't (said the service was unavailable) and he responded straight away saying he had sent me the total. I've ordered many many times from him in the past and I've always received a message from eBay telling me his total after I've requested it from him but not this time for some stupid reason. Nevermind. All is sorted now at least. Still waiting on Nils' package to arrive though lol


----------



## KShirza1

Corsair HX1k on PC-T60B


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*
> 
> Managed to figure it out after a while. Sent him a message asking him to cancel the sale since I couldn't (said the service was unavailable) and he responded straight away saying he had sent me the total. I've ordered many many times from him in the past and I've always received a message from eBay telling me his total after I've requested it from him but not this time for some stupid reason. Nevermind. All is sorted now at least. Still waiting on Nils' package to arrive though lol


Awesome! Great to hear.


----------



## Nemesis158

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KShirza1*
> 
> Corsair HX1k on PC-T60B
> snip*


Very nice


----------



## Selvanthos

How often do the female connectors come off while sleeving?

Wondering if its worth getting like 20 female connectors and the crimping tool. Although being $60 odd dollars from mdpc-x only want it if its going to be needed.


----------



## CyberDruid

I wish I had gotten a proper crimper from Nils with my last order. They do not come off in my experience, but being able to shorten or lengthen leads and tailor the cabling to the specific build is what takes cable management to a whole new level. Plus making white leads for white sleeving or red leads for red sleeving etc makes the color of the sleeve look so much better (and is a lot easier than using electrical tape under the sleeve).


----------



## Badwrench

Dang, so much good work going on here. Figured I should contribute.


----------



## KShirza1




----------



## CyberDruid

These crappy red pin housings make inserting a sleeved lead a real PITA. Probably will end up redoing this like everything thing else I attempt. Sleeve is not my strong suit. I like the no shrink sleeve idea. But I guess I will never find out. Once these are perfected I am going to sell all my sleeving tools and supplies just to make sure I never have to do this again


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyberDruid*
> 
> 
> These crappy red pin housings make inserting a sleeved lead a real PITA. Probably will end up redoing this like everything thing else I attempt. Sleeve is not my strong suit. I like the no shrink sleeve idea. But I guess I will never find out. Once these are perfected I am going to sell all my sleeving tools and supplies just to make sure I never have to do this again


Haha. Looks like your doing fine buddy. If you melt the tip a bit more and insert the cable when its (semi cool) it will slide right in. It takes time to get all the little nuances down, but once you understand it, its a blast. The again some people just don't like it haha.


----------



## Jo0

So my package from MDPC came in today.

I managed to finish my PSU power cable. Everything went fine and dandy! Then I started working on my Mobo cable....man oh man is this a different story. My paracord keeps coming off the heat shrink!







I decided to call it day. I'll work on it again when I'm a little more relaxed. I dont want to waste anymore heatshrink and paracord with my mistakes.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jo0*
> 
> So my package from MDPC came in today.
> I managed to finish my PSU power cable. Everything went fine and dandy! Then I started working on my Mobo cable....man oh man is this a different story. My paracord keeps coming off the heat shrink!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to call it day. I'll work on it again when I'm a little more relaxed. I dont want to waste anymore heatshrink and paracord with my mistakes.


If you need any help at all please feel free to ask. I also have many video guides on sleeving (link is in my sig) as well as a paracord guide.

And here is the extension that will go through my backplate for the Aspros Mod.





Please excuse the fat wire at the end lol, it was really late, and I always tend to redo a few of them before the final product. Seems like the smaller the extension the harder it is to get that nice stretch on the sleeve.


----------



## Jo0

I have the paracord video saved on my desktop. I'll give it a run through later tonight.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jo0*
> 
> I have the paracord video saved on my desktop. I'll give it a run through later tonight.


Awesome I will be on a good portion of the night. Feel free to skype or pm me if you want some help.


----------



## Jo0

There's my 8-pin CPU power cable done. I also did my AP-15s too. I'll probably redo the heatshrink when I'm done with my other cables, just to make sure I have enough left over to work with.


----------



## shnur

That's your first sleeving?! It's great


----------



## Jo0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur*
> 
> That's your first sleeving?! It's great


Yes sir! First time sleeving. I'm surprised on how it's turning out!


----------



## Badwrench

Looking good Jo0







. It gets easier (and a little faster) with practice.

My current project:
I had already sleeved my CX430 in yellow and neon green, but was not happy with how dark the yellow looked, so since FTWpc just got some lemon/lime paracord, I went to work and re-sleeved the whole thing. Also removed one of the SATA leads and removed the +2 from the pci lead as my build uses neither of them.

First off, my work station: You can see the darker yellow on the leads, and the pile of lemon/lime on the left.


















My favorite shot:


















Finished and installed:









And w/ the panel on:









And yes, I noticed the pulled sleeve on the molex lead. It was fixed after I took the picture before I installed it.


----------



## shnur

Happy colors!


----------



## CyberDruid

Finally got my last 3 cables sleeved on the Gemini Project. Thanks Lutro0 for the gauge tool. I am soooooo done with sleeving right now. I know I can improve some of the shrink but I just can't force myself to get into it right now.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur*
> 
> Happy colors!


Yup! Currently looking for a DFI X48 to complete the look. My current P5N32 just gave up the ghost.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jo0*
> 
> -img snip-
> There's my 8-pin CPU power cable done. I also did my AP-15s too. I'll probably redo the heatshrink when I'm done with my other cables, just to make sure I have enough left over to work with.


Good Job Bud! Keep it up!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Looking good Jo0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It gets easier (and a little faster) with practice.
> My current project:
> I had already sleeved my CX430 in yellow and neon green, but was not happy with how dark the yellow looked, so since FTWpc just got some lemon/lime paracord, I went to work and re-sleeved the whole thing. Also removed one of the SATA leads and removed the +2 from the pci lead as my build uses neither of them.
> First off, my work station: You can see the darker yellow on the leads, and the pile of lemon/lime on the left.
> -img snip-
> And yes, I noticed the pulled sleeve on the molex lead. It was fixed after I took the picture before I installed it.


MMMmm Limey








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyberDruid*
> 
> Finally got my last 3 cables sleeved on the Gemini Project. Thanks Lutro0 for the gauge tool. I am soooooo done with sleeving right now. I know I can improve some of the shrink but I just can't force myself to get into it right now.


lol sometimes a break is needed. I'm glad you found it useful.










Also, Here is some pictures of an extension I just finished and my stock of MDPC Sleeve.


----------



## Johnsen

I got the paracord, now i just need to get some heatshrink, theres a electronic hardware store that all that kinda stuff some blocks away - but - Im not sure to get 2,4mm, 3,4mm or 4,8mm Heatshrink.. Anyone?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnsen*
> 
> I got the paracord, now i just need to get some heatshrink, theres a electronic hardware store that all that kinda stuff some blocks away - but - Im not sure to get 2,4mm, 3,4mm or 4,8mm Heatshrink.. Anyone?


Check out the bottom part of this post: http://www.overclock.net/t/1122053/lutro0-customs-sleeving-tool-tutorials/0_20#post_15008537


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Check out the bottom part of this post: http://www.overclock.net/t/1122053/lutro0-customs-sleeving-tool-tutorials/0_20#post_15008537


I Did, I have read the whole thing but it might be the problem that we (here in Denmar) uses the metric system, mich might be the thing that confuses me.. I geuss ill just buy a bit of each and see wich fit.


----------



## mav2000

Awesome work Lutro and also like the new avatar...keep going buddy


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnsen*
> 
> I Did, I have read the whole thing but it might be the problem that we (here in Denmar) uses the metric system, mich might be the thing that confuses me.. I geuss ill just buy a bit of each and see wich fit.


If you want we can sit down and do the conversions, shouldn't take but a few seconds and Google.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav2000*
> 
> Awesome work Lutro and also like the new avatar...keep going buddy


I appreciate that bud, the whole venture is awesome - I've met some awesome people and made alot of new friends as well as strengthened them with old ones. And thanks for the comment on the avatar, I didn't know what I thought of it so far lol


----------



## Doc1355

@Lutro0 i would really like a video "how to mdpc sleeve without heatshrink"!!!!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc1355*
> 
> @Lutro0 i would really like a video "how to mdpc sleeve without heatshrink"!!!!


lol, you and a few others I think. I wont be sharing it right now because I sell them, and its a fun project for me and my wife to do together. On top of that its fun getting to know Martin and Nils and the rest of the sleeving family/distributorship more. Its amazing what can happen when you are not trying to claw your way to the top and choose instead to work "with" others instead.

I do however promise that once I am done selling them I will make that video and share everything. However if there is any questions about anything else please feel free to ask.


----------



## Doc1355

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> lol, you and a few others I think. I wont be sharing it right now because I sell them, and its a fun project for me and my wife to do together. On top of that its fun getting to know Martin and Nils and the rest of the sleeving family/distributorship more. Its amazing what can happen when you are not trying to claw your way to the top and choose instead to work "with" others instead.
> I do however promise that once I am done selling them I will make that video and share everything. However if there is any questions about anything else please feel free to ask.


Oops!! Didn't know that man,soz


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> If you want we can sit down and do the conversions, shouldn't take but a few seconds and Google.


Thx, maybe if you just could tell me if any of these is good enough? *Link*

Also, Im about to order *THIS* tool - if its good enugh? Its just the best deal for me since its so cheap and can be in the mail by tomorow or so.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnsen*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> If you want we can sit down and do the conversions, shouldn't take but a few seconds and Google.
> 
> 
> 
> Thx, maybe if you just could tell me if any of these is good enough? *Link*
> Also, Im about to order *THIS* tool - if its good enugh? Its just the best deal for me since its so cheap and can be in the mail by tomorow or so.
Click to expand...

Honestly, you will need at least 3:1 heatshrink to make a good hold on that paracord. Infact you might want to check out MDPC, it might be close enough that it would be cheap shipping for you. I will give you two links to check out.

http://de.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/schrumpfschlauch.htm

http://de.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve-kits-+-werkzeuge/sleeve-werkzeuge.htm

Those are what I would recommend hands down, its well worth the money. If you try to cheapen it on the heatshrink and your tool it will just be a headache later.


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Honestly, you will need at least 3:1 heatshrink to make a good hold on that paracord. Infact you might want to check out MDPC, it might be close enough that it would be cheap shipping for you. I will give you two links to check out.
> 
> Those are what I would recommend hands down, its well worth the money. If you try to cheapen it on the heatshrink and your tool it will just be a headache later.


Thx for helpin me out.








Actually I have been looking at MDPC, many times, but never gotten down to order anything. Im sure your right about the the shrink, and I might just order it from him after all.

But regarding the tool, its about th same prise as MDPC's tool and it can remove all types of pin so shouldn't it be good enough?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnsen*
> 
> Thx for helpin me out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually I have been looking at MDPC, many times, but never gotten down to order anything. Im sure your right about the the shrink, and I might just order it from him after all.
> But regarding the tool, its about th same prise as MDPC's tool and it can remove all types of pin so shouldn't it be good enough?


I have used many different tools in my day, and none of the have stacked up to the original molex tool, and a exacto knife. Everything else has just given me a headache.


----------



## Badwrench

It's worth a little more to get the correct tool. Your hands and sanity will thank you.


----------



## shnur

Your sanity especially


----------



## ontic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnsen*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> If you want we can sit down and do the conversions, shouldn't take but a few seconds and Google.
> 
> 
> 
> Thx, maybe if you just could tell me if any of these is good enough? *Link*
> Also, Im about to order *THIS* tool - if its good enugh? Its just the best deal for me since its so cheap and can be in the mail by tomorow or so.
Click to expand...

I can vouch for that tool. I've got one myself and its QUALITY!


----------



## Johnsen

Okay, thx evryone for the help so far. I placed my order at Nils and gotta say He's more than polite. Cant wait to get my order.









Gotta get back to you guys when i got something to show of... It might be pictures of the progress or some more questions.. ya never know..









Oh last thing: I figured i didnt need a heat-gun but what if you need to put shrink at the other - like inside the PSU, im not sure a lighter would be to good for the components?


----------



## shnur

Lighter is OK, just don't bring it too close.

If you'll be using light heatshrink colors, I'd be careful with a lighter though... sometimes you'll have burnt results. Heat-gun gives you cleaner looks!


----------



## SmasherBasher

Oh how I miss posting in this thread.


----------



## shnur

Have you done any recent sleeving??


----------



## xHassassin

Hey, where are you guys buying your sleeving and heatshrink? MDPC doesn't have anything in stock apparently.

Also, a hairdryer will suffice for sealing the heatshrink right? Or do i need a blowtorch?

Trying to add a mic to my headphones and sleeve the two cables into one.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xHassassin*
> 
> Hey, where are you guys buying your sleeving and heatshrink? MDPC doesn't have anything in stock apparently.
> Also, a hairdryer will suffice for sealing the heatshrink right? Or do i need a blowtorch?
> Trying to add a mic to my headphones and sleeve the two cables into one.


I don't know about where to buy but everything else you need to know can be found here.


----------



## longroadtrip

wasn't sure where to post this, but Nils at MDPC has shut down his site temporarily due to health reasons.....I know he has to be exhausted with all the work he does. Here's to wishing Nils a speedy recovery!

This is the cartoon he drew me for the order I received today..


----------



## Lutro0

Here is some pics of more recent work.


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> wasn't sure where to post this, but Nils at MDPC has shut down his site temporarily due to health reasons.....I know he has to be exhausted with all the work he does. Here's to wishing Nils a speedy recovery!


Good thing i placed my order just hours befor he closed the site. But he recently wrote that he feels better so its all good. Cant wait to get started on this sleeving thingy.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Here is some pics of more recent work.


Dang - that looks sexy, i kinda wish i had got some black paracord. Instead i got some light grey camuflage and some red, im sure it still ar gonna look great, if not my lack of skill messes it up.


----------



## SmasherBasher

Hope all is well with Nils.


----------



## shnur

He re-opened his German store this morning. We'll see about International later this week or next week.


----------



## SmasherBasher

^^ to answer your previous question, no I have not had time to do any sleeving for myself. That will change very soon. Big things to come.


----------



## Lutro0

And yet some more photos of recent work.


----------



## shnur

Is this red or color-x? Looks surprisingly good with copper brown!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur*
> 
> Is this red or color-x? Looks surprisingly good with copper brown!


It is actually red+colorx. I need to work more on my picture taking -.- lol


----------



## shnur

I'm looking at this on a laptop; not color-accurate.

The darker one is color-x and the lighter one is red. Makes sense!


----------



## robert125381

How are some of you guys in here doing the heat shrink(less) sleeving?


----------



## Nemesis158

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robert125381*
> 
> How are some of you guys in here doing the heat shrink(less) sleeving?


Lutro0 Is a Wizard


----------



## Johnsen

Yaaay, the big day came. I figured my 200 precuts from MDPC should arrive tomorow so I got the tool and the paracord... The grey didnt quit look as the picture i saw, this is more dark grey/greenish kinda thing. Looks good, just doesnt go to well with my theme, but I'll use it anyway...



But at first try (second after unpacking the tool) removing a 3 pin apart this happen.. Ar you freaking kidding me?!

I should really had bought the mdpc-x tool.. Shame on me!!


----------



## Lettuceman

How is the FTW PC cord? I'm looking to sleeve my cords for the first time and I'm just trying to figure out what I want to get. Not sure if I want to spend the money on the MDPC sleeving, but I might end up doing so.


----------



## robert125381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lettuceman*
> 
> How is the FTW PC cord? I'm looking to sleeve my cords for the first time and I'm just trying to figure out what I want to get. Not sure if I want to spend the money on the MDPC sleeving, but I might end up doing so.


its ok i just got a sample pack order a sample and see for yourself


----------



## Lidrager

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robert125381*
> 
> How are some of you guys in here doing the heat shrink(less) sleeving?


MDPC sleeving? I got 3-pin fan connector with mini paracord:


----------



## SmasherBasher

I like that a lot. Well done!

I've got my work cut out for me in the coming days / weeks



















About half of the cables you see will be cut off of the PSUs. I only need 1x 24 pin, 1x 8 pin, 1x SATA chain and 1x 4 pin peripheral chain per PSU. I may save the PCI-Express lines but I don't need them for my purposes.


----------



## shnur

Ouf! A lot of work coming up!


----------



## cblaxx19

so i started working on sleeving my extensions today using FTW PC's parachord sleeving. Im not nearly as picky about the heatshrink as others i have seen are. I would have rather done without the heat shrink all together but i couldn't figure out how to do it well.

but here is a pic of one of my 8 pin extensions.










Im obviously doing a black/yellow theme for my new build. im trying to decide what kind of pattern i want to use on the 24 pin.. the single stripe or multiple stripes of each color.

what do you guys think?


----------



## shnur

Nice job! It will be very nice when done!


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cblaxx19*


Looks so good.


----------



## Tennobanzai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lidrager*


Looks great. I like how it matches with your mobo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cblaxx19*
> 
> so i started working on sleeving my extensions today using FTW PC's parachord sleeving. Im not nearly as picky about the heatshrink as others i have seen are. I would have rather done without the heat shrink all together but i couldn't figure out how to do it well.
> 
> but here is a pic of one of my 8 pin extensions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im obviously doing a black/yellow theme for my new build. im trying to decide what kind of pattern i want to use on the 24 pin.. the single stripe or multiple stripes of each color.
> 
> what do you guys think?


Really good job for a first timer. The heatshrink looks very even


----------



## Lutro0

Some more recent work!


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cblaxx19*
> 
> so i started working on sleeving my extensions today using FTW PC's parachord sleeving. Im not nearly as picky about the heatshrink as others i have seen are. I would have rather done without the heat shrink all together but i couldn't figure out how to do it well.
> but here is a pic of one of my 8 pin extensions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im obviously doing a black/yellow theme for my new build. im trying to decide what kind of pattern i want to use on the 24 pin.. the single stripe or multiple stripes of each color.
> what do you guys think?


Looking good. As for a pattern, pick something fun that will compliment your main color ie: b,y,y,y,b,y,y,y,b,y,y,y or y,y,b,b,b,y,y,y,y,y,y,y, or y,y,b,y,b,y,b,y,y,y,y,y.


----------



## Stuuut

Damn Lutro0 tell us your secret for sleeving without heatshrink :O That looks awesome.


----------



## Lidrager

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> Damn Lutro0 tell us your secret for sleeving without heatshrink :O That looks awesome.


Hint: The secret for sleeving (MDPC and paracord) without heatshrink is using heatshrink and the plastic can be heated up (MDPC and paracord) to melt down point by lighter. Then you remove the heatshrink and enjoy the result.

I can not show up the pics because I want to support Lutro0' business. When the time comes, he will post the video guide for everyone.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> Damn Lutro0 tell us your secret for sleeving without heatshrink :O That looks awesome.


I appreciate the kind words!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lidrager*
> 
> Hint: The secret for sleeving (MDPC and paracord) without heatshrink is using heatshrink and the plastic can be heated up (MDPC and paracord) to melt down point by lighter. Then you remove the heatshrink and enjoy the result.
> I can not show up the pics because I want to support Lutro0' business. When the time comes, he will post the video guide for everyone.


You are right that I dont share it but if you watch my live streams its not hard to figure out. However, for those that want to try this method, what lidrager mentioned is a small part of the whole equation that makes these cables what they are. If its done wrong the sleeve wont hold, you will scruntch the sleeve, or you will end up with floppy cables. So please be advised that if you are wanting to try it to practice first.

When I am done selling them I will fully do a video guide and share the full method.









And thanks for the support Lid.

Also I got my new lightbox today decided to take a few pics.


----------



## Johnsen

So two thing happend. I resived my package and i got a new mod tool after the old one broke.



First quick try, it looks better IRL than on the picture.










*One thing tho. HOW DO YOU REMOVE FEMALE PCI PINS? I tryed evry Tutorial and guides but its not illustrated anywhere?*


----------



## Lutro0

Johnsen, The mdpc guide in my sig (sleeving video guide) Shows you how to remove the female pins, however if you mean the male extension pin, its the same exact way. Please watch the video as it will explain it in full detail.


----------



## Systemlord

I received my Lamptron modding tool kit yesterday, the 4-pin fan tool is not made out of stainless steel! Look closely at the metal surface and you'll see that there is a coating of nickel on the 4-pin tool, if it were stainless steel it would not need any special coating hence stainless steel.


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Johnsen, The mdpc guide in my sig (sleeving video guide) Shows you how to remove the female pins, however if you mean the male extension pin, its the same exact way. Please watch the video as it will explain it in full detail.


Oh it was hiding in you paracord tutorial.







Anyway, i still cant get them out.. Im not sure what im doing wrong..


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnsen*
> 
> Oh it was hiding in you paracord tutorial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, i still cant get them out.. Im not sure what im doing wrong..


Johnsen, go ahead and join me on my livecast and let me know its you and I will show you. Join @ http://www.livestream.com/lutro0


----------



## Nemesis158

finally got a good picture of my rig up, hope you guys like it








Lutro0 sleeved 6pin extensions + NZXT 24 pin sleeved extension


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Johnsen, go ahead and join me on my livecast and let me know its you and I will show you. Join @ http://www.livestream.com/lutro0


I wont be able to come online until next week, Ill let you know. But really, thanks for the offer.


----------



## micul

I am planing to sleeve my next power supply . The sleeve witch i will use will be Darkside Sleeeve : http://dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=139_190 . Now i have only the 5/64" (2mm) and i tried to do some spare wires . The sleeve is smaller than what i used before but the result is good. Next week i will order the 5/32"(3mm) to see how that one fits.
Somehow i managed to put the sleeve under the crimp area , and done a pull test . As you can see in the second pic there are 2 wires with heatshrink . The heatshrink used was something with some glue inside . On the top wire the heatshrink was cut shorter so it fit right at the edge of the connector entrance.

Witch method should i use :
- the top wire - with the heatshrink shorter
- the 2 wires with heatshrink showing





sorry for my bad english


----------



## Water Cooled

*Salutes*

I salute all the people who sleeve their PSU's, I just by extensions!


----------



## Baron_Davis

If I pay for the power supply and the sleeving, can you custom sleeving guys (the sellers I mean) buy the PS and sleeve it? I think I remember Crysis Gamer having this option on his site, but I forget. I actually think I asked this same question on XS before and he said yes lol

Also, does this apply for cases and fans? Basically I would pay for the stuff before hand, and they buy the PS/case/fans and sleeve em.


----------



## Water Cooled

I know Lutro0 doesn't have the time to fully sleeve a PSU. Maybe you could buy his extensions?


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

*Adds Lutro0 to list of hated sleevers*









Keep up the good work


----------



## fshizl

sleeve some wire, sleeve some tubing. SLEEVE EVERYTHING!!!


----------



## Badwrench

Having a little more fun: I kinda like this color combo. Purple/Black/lemon-lime flourescent



























With a different setting on the camera (maybe Santa will bring me a new one!)


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *micul*
> 
> I am planing to sleeve my next power supply . The sleeve witch i will use will be Darkside Sleeeve : http://dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=139_190 . Now i have only the 5/64" (2mm) and i tried to do some spare wires . The sleeve is smaller than what i used before but the result is good. Next week i will order the 5/32"(3mm) to see how that one fits.
> Somehow i managed to put the sleeve under the crimp area , and done a pull test . As you can see in the second pic there are 2 wires with heatshrink . The heatshrink used was something with some glue inside . On the top wire the heatshrink was cut shorter so it fit right at the edge of the connector entrance.
> 
> Witch method should i use :
> - the top wire - with the heatshrink shorter
> - the 2 wires with heatshrink showing
> sorry for my bad english


Ether method would work, but if you are going to use heatshrink have it show some. Personally im not a fan of the adhesive heatshrink as you can see the glue a little. But it should work just fine.

Also don't try to get the sleeve under the crimp too many times, you will grind away the fragile teeth of your crimper. They were not meant to have that much bulk underneath the crimp.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Water Cooled*
> 
> I know Lutro0 doesn't have the time to fully sleeve a PSU. Maybe you could buy his extensions?


Well yea and no. I do do take full oem jobs from time to time. I don't advertise that I do it because I don't like to ask as much as I do to have them done. To do a clean and straight job it takes alot of time. So the price reflects that. However I still have people PM me anyway lol.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*
> 
> *Adds Lutro0 to list of hated sleevers*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep up the good work


Hey now!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fshizl*
> 
> sleeve some wire, sleeve some tubing. SLEEVE EVERYTHING!!!


Looks awesome!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Having a little more fun: I kinda like this color combo. Purple/Black/lemon-lime flourescent


Keep it up badwrench!


----------



## Baron_Davis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Water Cooled*
> 
> I know Lutro0 doesn't have the time to fully sleeve a PSU. Maybe you could buy his extensions?


I would just need the 24/cpu8/6+6vga, few case wires, and 3 or so fan cables. Gonna have external burner, and be using a PCI-E SSD.

~55 total


----------



## audiofreak95

sleeved my entire power supply this weekend









will post pics soon


----------



## Lutro0

Some recent fuzzy paracord work!


----------



## eduardmc

my lutro0s sleeving, they look amazing.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1159606/lutro0-customs-fully-custom-extensions-for-sale


----------



## Lettuceman

So I got the FTW sleeving samples.

Now the question is, not sure what quality is supposed to be







I've never sleeved before, and have never held/seen sleeving before in my entire life. How do I know this is quality stuff?

On another note, the paracord does indeed look nice


----------



## Stuuut

Hey guys going to order some sleeving tommorow i think. Going for MDPC-X sleeving.

Does anybody know what i need to sleeve a XFX 850w Black Edition PSU?
I was thinking ordering 3 colors Blue, White and Black.
Would if be enough if i ordered 10m of each?

And would you guys reccomend buying thoes tools from the MDPC-X website?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lettuceman*
> 
> So I got the FTW sleeving samples.
> Now the question is, not sure what quality is supposed to be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've never sleeved before, and have never held/seen sleeving before in my entire life. How do I know this is quality stuff?
> On another note, the paracord does indeed look nice


Quality is kinda in the eye of the beholder. But for the most part, the things you look for in sleeving is coverage, stretchable (does it stretch to cover it up completely), colors, and flexibility while holding its shape, and diameter (is it large enough without being too large to fit into the connector when its shrunk). But honestly everyone has different sleeving styles so unless you have sleeved before and have tried a few different kinds, it would be hard for you to gauge quality.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> Hey guys going to order some sleeving tommorow i think. Going for MDPC-X sleeving.
> Does anybody know what i need to sleeve a XFX 850w Black Edition PSU?
> I was thinking ordering 3 colors Blue, White and Black.
> Would if be enough if i ordered 10m of each?
> And would you guys reccomend buying thoes tools from the MDPC-X website?


Please check out the bottom part of this link for your questions. But for a quick answer, the only way you will know for sure is to measure it yourself or look up the tech specs on the manufacturers website and count it up once you have a planned color scheme. http://www.overclock.net/t/1122053/lutro0-customs-sleeving-tool-tutorials/0_20#post_15008537


----------



## SmasherBasher

Does this count?














































This is by no means final shots. Only proving a concept for clamping my tubing onto barbs and concealing it. I may end up having some custom covers made.


----------



## chucknorris101

I'm looking to sleeve my PSU (surprise!) with MDPC-X, I was wondering what color scheme you would recommend for my rig...have NZXT phantom blue LED fans, will be getting the NZXT blue light strip...and have the zalman CNPS 9900max air cooler (for now, now quite ready to go water...eventually) that has a slightly lighter blue LED, and blue corsair vengeance ram...here's a shoddy pic, sorry no better its the best cam i have lol



its pretty much all blue/black (case and mobo)


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chucknorris101*
> 
> I'm looking to sleeve my PSU (surprise!) with MDPC-X, I was wondering what color scheme you would recommend for my rig...have NZXT phantom blue LED fans, will be getting the NZXT blue light strip...and have the zalman CNPS 9900max air cooler (for now, now quite ready to go water...eventually) that has a slightly lighter blue LED, and blue corsair vengeance ram...here's a shoddy pic, sorry no better its the best cam i have lol[/URL]
> its pretty much all blue/black (case and mobo)


Something like this would look awesome.


----------



## chucknorris101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Something like this would look awesome.
> *snip*


Thanks! It does look pretty sweet I think I may do something similar, though I was wondering about the blue color...its hard to tell how the colors will look next to components from his site..which of the three blues would you recommend? i think im leaning more toward the b-magic > aqua >> grand bleu


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chucknorris101*
> 
> Thanks! It does look pretty sweet I think I may do something similar, though I was wondering about the blue color...its hard to tell how the colors will look next to components from his site..which of the three blues would you recommend? i think im leaning more toward the b-magic > aqua >> grand bleu


That is grand blue.


----------



## ramkatral

Ehm, I'm having a bit of a problem that perhaps everyone here can help me with. I have some paracord and am attempting to sleeve my PCI 8-pin and PCI 6-pin cables with it. Slight problem... I can't get the dang ATX connectors off! I have an ATX removal tool with the two little blades on it from a previous sleeving kit I had. I can't get it to work. Any advise on what I may be doing wrong?


----------



## cblaxx19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> Ehm, I'm having a bit of a problem that perhaps everyone here can help me with. I have some paracord and am attempting to sleeve my PCI 8-pin and PCI 6-pin cables with it. Slight problem... I can't get the dang ATX connectors off! I have an ATX removal tool with the two little blades on it from a previous sleeving kit I had. I can't get it to work. Any advise on what I may be doing wrong?


make sure the "blades" are on the sides(the long direction of the connector) and push in, make sure to push the wire into the connector, push the tool in again, then pull on the wire. it should snap right out.


----------



## SmasherBasher

Redid my connections and added some new 90s that just showed up from Aquatuning.




























Look for more in my worklog.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1170322/worklog-my-epic-2-stacked-case-labs-m10/0_50


----------



## ramkatral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cblaxx19*
> 
> make sure the "blades" are on the sides(the long direction of the connector) and push in, make sure to push the wire into the connector, push the tool in again, then pull on the wire. it should snap right out.


Finally figured out what I was doing wrong. I was too timid to pull the wires hard enough. Finally, I got irritated and yanked very firmly on it and it popped right out. I was like ***! I was worried that pulling hard would break/bend something. Now, to realize just how much of a pain in the ass this is going to be haha.

I like the way that sleeving looks on those hoses. I've been contemplating the same thing recently. I wish paracord came big enough for that. I don't like the gaps in the sleeving. I like the totally covered look.


----------



## audiofreak95

finished


----------



## ramkatral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audiofreak95*
> 
> 
> finished


The wires are very nice, but you should still do some management on them. I guess I'm one of those OCD guys, but it would look much cleaner with some hiding and stuffing of the excess. I see you're using a thermaltake case, which are notorious for horrible cable management, but it CAN be done... Somewhat.

Then again if you don't give a CRAP about cable management, ignore me all together.


----------



## eduardmc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chucknorris101*
> 
> Thanks! It does look pretty sweet I think I may do something similar, though I was wondering about the blue color...its hard to tell how the colors will look next to components from his site..which of the three blues would you recommend? i think im leaning more toward the b-magic > aqua >> grand bleu


Here's how it looks


----------



## rgrwng

After reading through 25 pages, i skipped to reply a question here:

Does Corsair sell extra bags of cables? I am thinking of sleeving my AX1200, but do not want to muck up the cables that came with it, so i am wondering if it is possible to just email Corsair, requesting a second bag of cables, because i don't want to take down my only computer, and be out for weeks. That way i can sleeve a set of cables, and have backups, because using extensions is nice, but it does not match the power supply colors. i want to sleeve the cables to match the PSU colors (white, gold, gray/black).

they are also long enough that i would get a uniform look - at the moment, i have black base cables going behind the mobo tray, coming out as a colored extension. i like it a lot, but if i can do the uniform thing, i would.


----------



## duceanahalf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> After reading through 25 pages, i skipped to reply a question here:
> Does Corsair sell extra bags of cables? I am thinking of sleeving my AX1200, but do not want to muck up the cables that came with it, so i am wondering if it is possible to just email Corsair, requesting a second bag of cables, because i don't want to take down my only computer, and be out for weeks. That way i can sleeve a set of cables, and have backups, because using extensions is nice, but it does not match the power supply colors. i want to sleeve the cables to match the PSU colors (white, gold, gray/black).
> they are also long enough that i would get a uniform look - at the moment, i have black base cables going behind the mobo tray, coming out as a colored extension. i like it a lot, but if i can do the uniform thing, i would.


if you have spare cables you can sleeve those then swap over, or you can shut down remove one or two cables, sleeve those and then put it back together. and do more when you have a chance


----------



## Stuuut

Ordered my sleeving today at MDPC-X








20m White
20m Black
10m Blue
Guess that will be plenty.
Can't wait for it to come in to start sleeving


----------



## Doc1355

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> Ordered my sleeving today at MDPC-X
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 20m White
> 20m Black
> 10m Blue
> Guess that will be plenty.
> Can't wait for it to come in to start sleeving


Have a nice time sleeving man!


----------



## audiofreak95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramkatral*
> 
> The wires are very nice, but you should still do some management on them. I guess I'm one of those OCD guys, but it would look much cleaner with some hiding and stuffing of the excess. I see you're using a thermaltake case, which are notorious for horrible cable management, but it CAN be done... Somewhat.
> Then again if you don't give a CRAP about cable management, ignore me all together.


its actually a NZXT Lexa S still crap with cable management but its there i like to show off the cables tho and you cant really see through my case window as it is smoke colored


----------



## ramkatral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audiofreak95*
> 
> its actually a NZXT Lexa S still crap with cable management but its there i like to show off the cables tho and you cant really see through my case window as it is smoke colored


lol, dunno why I thought thermaltake. Must have been the PSU that made my brain go funky. I do really like the sleeve job though. I really wish I had the patience to do it, or the money to buy some from Lutro0. Unfortunately, it's Christmas and I have two young kids, so it'll be awhile. My biggest problem with doing it myself is I can't get the ATX end to feed through the paracord without snagging completely. So, I get irritated and just quit.


----------



## audiofreak95

what you gotta do it wrap it in a little bit of masking tape like the connector part then it just slips right through. i thank lutro0 for me knowing how to do that


----------



## ramkatral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audiofreak95*
> 
> what you gotta do it wrap it in a little bit of masking tape like the connector part then it just slips right through. i thank lutro0 for me knowing how to do that


... How the HECK didn't I think of something that simple?! Thanks for the tip. Maybe I can actually do my PCIe wires now!


----------



## Lutro0

ramkatral, send me an pm bud maybe we can work something out.









Also here is the results of tonight's work.


----------



## shineon2011

Very Nice Lutro!


----------



## Doc1355

Here is my first try sleeving without heatshrink...i like the result!
Hope you like it too


----------



## asakurahao

2 days ago I got my MPDC sleeve from Nils, and today I finished sleeving my PSU for the first time

































I want to say thank you to Lutro for an awesome guide. And to Nils for providing a top quality sleeve in the market.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc1355*
> 
> Here is my first try sleeving without heatshrink...i like the result!
> Hope you like it too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -snip- ]










Nice bud.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asakurahao*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 days ago I got my MPDC sleeve from Nils, and today I finished sleeving my PSU for the first time
> -snip-
> I want to say thank you to Lutro for an awesome guide. And to Nils for providing a top quality sleeve in the market.


(in choked up voice) So proud!

LOL You sir did an awesome job for a first time. They look great.


----------



## ramkatral

Looking great guys!

I can manage a decent job with the MPDC sleeving... It's the paracord that I can't seem to get the hang of.


----------



## shnur

Wow that's a great job for a first-timer!


----------



## RushMore1205

is there someone who can direct me to how to sleeve without the shrink? showing


----------



## Doc1355

The 6pin finished..


----------



## audiofreak95

some more shrinkless sleeving


----------



## Lutro0

looks good guys! great job!


----------



## Nova.

The heatshrinkless cables are really starting to grow on me..


----------



## Romin

Can someone make a list of things and sizes that I need to sleeve my Seasonic X850 PSU cables?

I'm completely newbie in these stuff !

Thanks in advance


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Romin*
> 
> Can someone make a list of things and sizes that I need to sleeve my Seasonic X850 PSU cables?
> I'm completely newbie in these stuff !
> Thanks in advance


Please check the link in my signature, it has video guides and a FAQ that will answer any questions you might need.

Guides and info = http://www.overclock.net/overclock-net-artisans/1122053-lutro0-customs-sleeving-tool-tutorials.html


----------



## duceanahalf

apologies for the pictures, used my phone with poor lighting conditions. this was done in "black widow" (black and red) paracord.


----------



## ramkatral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duceanahalf*
> 
> apologies for the pictures, used my phone with poor lighting conditions. this was done in "black widow" (black and red) paracord.


That about makes me wish I had red in my rig to match with... Looks great.


----------



## Lutro0

I must be the heatshrinkless hipster...


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I'll be a heatshrinkless hipster soon too







Speaking of cables, where can I buy wire from that will ship to NZ? Hard to find stuff like this now that every second building is demolished and half the population of the city has left -.-


----------



## Lutro0

Some fooling around...


----------



## Doc1355

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Some fooling around...


Double rainbow all the way!!








Really nice Lutro0


----------



## duceanahalf

It is supposed to be red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, violet.


----------



## yanks8981

What heatshrink do you use for fans? I prefer the look of having it over top the 3 pin connector, but standard doesnt fit. I am assuming the sata stuff?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc1355*
> 
> Double rainbow all the way!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really nice Lutro0


LOL thanks bud.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duceanahalf*
> 
> It is supposed to be red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, violet.


Haha, yea it wouldn't of been hard to do that but I liked the dark green and the dark blue on the sides.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yanks8981*
> 
> What heatshrink do you use for fans? I prefer the look of having it over top the 3 pin connector, but standard doesnt fit. I am assuming the sata stuff?


Yup the satashrink works the best.


----------



## (sic)

I skimmed through quickly, but couldn't locate a guide on how to sleeve without heatshrink.

Anyone care to help me out?


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Some fooling around...


Dang! That looks awesome. Did you switch your aspros build to Rainbow Bright?


----------



## audiofreak95

i changed some schtuffs


----------



## Stuuut

Just got all my stuff from MDPC-X but damn its hard to remove the damn pins







can't seem to do it any tips?
I've watched Lutro0's guide and read the MDPC guide.

EDIT:
Just a quick question.
There are 2 color cables in my 8 pin GPU connectors black and yellow (with 2 small black ones) anyways yellow goes on top and black on bottom but does it matter in what order i put thoes pins in on the row?

EDIT:
Seems i can get them out but i do have to pull with alot of force.. is this normal?

EDIT:
Ok so my first 3 wires ever










Didn't strech the white sleeve enough tough







and 1 of the heatshrinks looks ugly.
Lutro0 how do you get your wires that straight to take a photo?

EDIT:
ooh snap 1 of the sleevings came loose


----------



## duceanahalf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> Just got all my stuff from MDPC-X but damn its hard to remove the damn pins
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can't seem to do it any tips?
> I've watched Lutro0's guide and read the MDPC guide.
> EDIT:
> Just a quick question.
> There are 2 color cables in my 8 pin GPU connectors black and yellow (with 2 small black ones) anyways yellow goes on top and black on bottom but does it matter in what order i put thoes pins in on the row?
> EDIT:
> Seems i can get them out but i do have to pull with alot of force.. is this normal?
> EDIT:
> Ok so my first 3 wires ever
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't strech the white sleeve enough tough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and 1 of the heatshrinks looks ugly.
> Lutro0 how do you get your wires that straight to take a photo?
> EDIT:
> ooh snap 1 of the sleevings came loose


it doesnt look like your heatshirnk is tight. What are you using to shrink it?


----------



## Stuuut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duceanahalf*
> 
> it doesnt look like your heatshirnk is tight. What are you using to shrink it?


just a lighter


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> Just got all my stuff from MDPC-X but damn its hard to remove the damn pins
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can't seem to do it any tips?
> I've watched Lutro0's guide and read the MDPC guide.
> EDIT:
> Just a quick question.
> There are 2 color cables in my 8 pin GPU connectors black and yellow (with 2 small black ones) anyways yellow goes on top and black on bottom but does it matter in what order i put thoes pins in on the row?
> EDIT:
> Seems i can get them out but i do have to pull with alot of force.. is this normal?
> EDIT:
> Ok so my first 3 wires ever
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't strech the white sleeve enough tough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and 1 of the heatshrinks looks ugly.
> Lutro0 how do you get your wires that straight to take a photo?
> EDIT:
> ooh snap 1 of the sleevings came loose


With the pin removal sometimes it helps to push the wire forward and then push the tool in, as it helps it make better contact with the clips and other times you really need to yank on them things once you are sure the tool is pushed all the way in.

As for the photos, it took lots of practice and I get all of my wires to go one way so they stay in place.


----------



## Stuuut

Well after trying it out on a test cable here is the 8pin cpu connector. Not perfect 1 heatshrink is off and wires are not the same size so might redo it when everything else is done


----------



## axipher

Here's some pics if Lutro0's latest work in action


----------



## Stuuut

Do you guys open up your PSU's to sleeve them or do you just put the heatshrink at the last visible end before the wire goes into the PSU. I don't really feel like opening my PSU and void my warrenty.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> Do you guys open up your PSU's to sleeve them or do you just put the heatshrink at the last visible end before the wire goes into the PSU. I don't really feel like opening my PSU and void my warrenty.


If your PSU has lasted you over 3 months, it should be safe for a long time, you shouldn't really worry too much about voiding your warranty, you probably won't need it.

And as for taking apart your PSU, just remember to plug the PSU fan back in.

You could also give it a good cleaning while you're in there with compressed air and even upgrade the fan.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> Do you guys open up your PSU's to sleeve them or do you just put the heatshrink at the last visible end before the wire goes into the PSU. I don't really feel like opening my PSU and void my warrenty.


I have done them both ways, just depends on how comfortable you feel doing it. If you are not good with risking a $150 psu, just buy a $30 dollar - low wattage unit to practice on and sell it when you are done.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> Well after trying it out on a test cable here is the 8pin cpu connector. Not perfect 1 heatshrink is off and wires are not the same size so might redo it when everything else is done
> [/URL]


Not to advertise but, On my guides I sell a tool that helps you get that gap under control, if you have any questions please contact me by pm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Here's some pics if Lutro0's latest work in action
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -snip-


I love how that turned out buddy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> Do you guys open up your PSU's to sleeve them or do you just put the heatshrink at the last visible end before the wire goes into the PSU. I don't really feel like opening my PSU and void my warrenty.


I do open them as that looks the cleanest. But it can be done both ways. If you get a modular PSU you can sleeve the cables and not worry about the warranty. But on the non-modulars you are stuck with either doing the methods given above or using extensions.


----------



## Lutro0

Here is some more photos of recent work!


----------



## solsamurai

Still amazing as always.


----------



## ramkatral

Looks fantastic!


----------



## ramkatral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audiofreak95*
> 
> 
> 
> i changed some schtuffs


Nice! I told ya it would be sexy with some clean cable management. I'd give it an 8.5/10 on the other thread now.


----------



## rgrwng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Here is some more photos of recent work!


This scheme would look nice on my AX1200. I would probably ask for the white instead of gray if i decided to get some done..


----------



## eduardmc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Here is some more photos of recent work!


Lutro0s you have to give me some credit on this









It seems after i invented this pattern (for the 24 pin), everyone seems to like it and have been ordering the same pattern with different color combination








(my pattern was, black, blue, white, white, blue, black, black, blue, white white, blue, black) is the same pattern from your last 3 jobs after mine.

i remember that day, i spend a few hour with color pencils coloring the 24 pin cause i did not want to make a pattern that i would later regretted. Lutro0s you are the best good luck to you and your work.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduardmc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Here is some more photos of recent work!
> /snip
> 
> 
> 
> Lutro0s you have to give me some credit on this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It seems after i invented this pattern (for the 24 pin), everyone seems to like it and have been ordering the same pattern with different color combination
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (my pattern was, black, blue, white, white, blue, black, black, blue, white white, blue, black) is the same pattern from your last 3 jobs after mine.
> 
> i remember that day, i spend a few hour with color pencils coloring the 24 pin cause i did not want to make a pattern that i would later regretted. Lutro0s you are the best good luck to you and your work.
Click to expand...

That was my problem as well, trying to find a pattern that wasn't used yet. I got lucky lol.

Although I don;t think my pattern would work with White, Black, and a color. You pretty much need Black and 2 shades of the same color.

All the work looks good nonetheless, even the stuff Lutro0 didn't do


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduardmc*
> 
> Lutro0s you have to give me some credit on this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It seems after i invented this pattern (for the 24 pin), everyone seems to like it and have been ordering the same pattern with different color combination
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (my pattern was, black, blue, white, white, blue, black, black, blue, white white, blue, black) is the same pattern from your last 3 jobs after mine.
> i remember that day, i spend a few hour with color pencils coloring the 24 pin cause i did not want to make a pattern that i would later regretted. Lutro0s you are the best good luck to you and your work.


lol, of course original credit for that pattern does goto you!








Most people just give me creative reign on the color pattern and I tend to cycle through the ones I have done for 3 colors and the ones that I think would look the best, Yours just happens to be the latest, and tends to look really good with certain colors.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> That was my problem as well, trying to find a pattern that wasn't used yet. I got lucky lol.
> Although I don;t think my pattern would work with White, Black, and a color. You pretty much need Black and 2 shades of the same color.
> All the work looks good nonetheless, even the stuff Lutro0 didn't do


Yea sadly almost every pattern you can imagine has been done already, just the pics are scattered throughout the internet so you cant look at them all in once place. Which would be very nice.


----------



## axipher

Yea sadly almost every pattern you can imagine has been done already, just the pics are scattered throughout the internet so you can look at them all in once place. Which would be very nice.[/quote]

So I say it's up to you to do every pattern at least once and have all photographs in one place in some nifty little program that anyone can download and run


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> So I say it's up to you to do every pattern at least once and have all photographs in one place in some nifty little program that anyone can download and run


Challenge accepted.


----------



## duceanahalf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Yea sadly almost every pattern you can imagine has been done already, just the pics are scattered throughout the internet so you can look at them all in once place. Which would be very nice.
> So I say it's up to you to do every pattern at least once and have all photographs in one place in some nifty little program that anyone can download and run


17 different colors of MDPC-X sleeving. 24 pin connector. 24^17 = 2.90797795 × 10^23 different possible patterns.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duceanahalf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Yea sadly almost every pattern you can imagine has been done already, just the pics are scattered throughout the internet so you can look at them all in once place. Which would be very nice.
> So I say it's up to you to do every pattern at least once and have all photographs in one place in some nifty little program that anyone can download and run
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 17 different colors of MDPC-X sleeving. 24 pin connector. 24^17 = 2.90797795 × 10^23 different possible patterns.
Click to expand...

With a program, you only need each color done once, then just some simple masking, each cable would have to be done with the exact same curve though.


----------



## cdoublejj

really tryin to read these guides but, the extremesystems.org links have no pictures any more.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> really tryin to read these guides but, the extremesystems.org links have no pictures any more.


Please check the guides in my signature, they have videos to go with most of them and are being updated all the time. If you have any questions on any of it please feel free to ask.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Please check the guides in my signature, they have videos to go with most of them and are being updated all the time. If you have any questions on any of it please feel free to ask.


I can't even watch or read it all because I need sleep. I know that i'm not even sure I wanna ask artisans how much sleeving services cost because iIcan't even afford it. Nor can I afford some of the tools to make my own cables at least not the mdpc crimper. I have access to almost everything else. I will be getting that mdpc crimper at some point when I start dropping some serious cash on tools. I'm too far in to computers to choose a career out side of electronics other than maybe small engines but, I'm babbling.

The real question for me is what material i will sleeve with and how to get the old stuff off with out frying it all, because the Corsair TX850 is a big boy power supply with big boy shrink rap with big boy glue. The glue and shrink wrap inhibit my ability "bend" the cabling near the plugs versus sweeping curves with mdpc or para-cord. I think i'm gonna go paracord because i think it has similar look to the cord on my Altec Lansing Back Beat Pluses (nice textured matte finish) plus the mdpc has shiny plasticy look like super cheap stuff we have left over from the early 2000's at work (pc shop). I really can't make the whole shiny plastic call on the mdpc yet cause i haven't got a big long 720p gander at it and para-cord side by side yet.

EDIT: also looking forward on figuring how to sleeve the sata power cable with ever thing crimped on to one big long cable, i have several of these rails/cables.


----------



## MooCwzRck

MDPC-X green UV sleeving ftw:


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> I can't even watch or read it all because I need sleep. I know that i'm not even sure I wanna ask artisans how much sleeving services cost because iIcan't even afford it. Nor can I afford some of the tools to make my own cables at least not the mdpc crimper. I have access to almost everything else. I will be getting that mdpc crimper at some point when I start dropping some serious cash on tools. I'm too far in to computers to choose a career out side of electronics other than maybe small engines but, I'm babbling.
> The real question for me is what material i will sleeve with and *how to get the old stuff off with out frying it all, because the Corsair TX850 is a big boy power supply with big boy shrink rap with big boy glue.* The glue and shrink wrap inhibit my ability "bend" the cabling near the plugs versus sweeping curves with mdpc or para-cord. I think i'm gonna go paracord because i think it has similar look to the cord on my Altec Lansing Back Beat Pluses (nice textured matte finish) plus the mdpc has shiny plasticy look like super cheap stuff we have left over from the early 2000's at work (pc shop). I really can't make the whole shiny plastic call on the mdpc yet cause i haven't got a big long 720p gander at it and para-cord side by side yet.
> EDIT: also looking forward on figuring how to sleeve the sata power cable with ever thing crimped on to one big long cable, i have several of these rails/cables.


For me I just pointed a hair dryer at max heat on the OEM heatshrink part. Made it really easy to peel off and get a scissor underneath to cut off the rest.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> I can't even watch or read it all because I need sleep. I know that i'm not even sure I wanna ask artisans how much sleeving services cost because iIcan't even afford it. Nor can I afford some of the tools to make my own cables at least not the mdpc crimper. I have access to almost everything else. I will be getting that mdpc crimper at some point when I start dropping some serious cash on tools. I'm too far in to computers to choose a career out side of electronics other than maybe small engines but, I'm babbling.
> The real question for me is what material i will sleeve with and how to get the old stuff off with out frying it all, because the Corsair TX850 is a big boy power supply with big boy shrink rap with big boy glue. The glue and shrink wrap inhibit my ability "bend" the cabling near the plugs versus sweeping curves with mdpc or para-cord. I think i'm gonna go paracord because i think it has similar look to the cord on my Altec Lansing Back Beat Pluses (nice textured matte finish) plus the mdpc has shiny plasticy look like super cheap stuff we have left over from the early 2000's at work (pc shop). I really can't make the whole shiny plastic call on the mdpc yet cause i haven't got a big long 720p gander at it and para-cord side by side yet.
> EDIT: also looking forward on figuring how to sleeve the sata power cable with ever thing crimped on to one big long cable, i have several of these rails/cables.


LOL I hear the sleep thing, My back pain has been keeping me up into the wee hours which is the only reason I am on.

A full powersupply is a good amount of money to get a good clean job on it. However extensions are a great option and when made right they look way better then getting a whole psu done. Please check my extension thread if you want more info on that.

Also to remove the shrink offa that psu is easy. The glue can be softened with heat by a lighter or a heatgun (preferably the heatgun) and you don't need allot of heat just enough to soften it up. Basically you cut the heatshrink and then hit it with some heat and then peal it right off. If you have any questions of this please feel free to PM me.

As for the paracord and MDPC comparison please check my extension thread or my Lutro0 Customs Gallery in my signature. The cheap plastic look is from direct lighting most people tend to use when they photograph it. Once its put into a system its looks great, I much prefer to sleeve with MDPC and would recommend to to a first time sleever hands down as paracord tends to be a little more difficult when your are first starting out.

My paracord pictures are at the bottom of my examples gallery in my extensions thread.

The sata power connectors can be taken off carefully with a butter knife and then pushed back on. The easiest method is to measure where you need the connectors and then sleeve to those points and reconnect the connector and then sleeve again and repeat until you are done. I plan on doing a video guide for this but I haven't gotten to it yet.

I hope some of that helps.


----------



## lostsoldier

very very nice guide,just joined here and there seem's to be a lot of guide's which is superb









ive got 2x600 watt power supply's to do soon for my new build and will be using this guide.

thanks for the time putting this together.


----------



## cdoublejj

That does help, hopefully by the time you make that video I might be ready to sleeve the PSU. This will be on my budget 6 core build build, so my case doesn't have a lot of room for cables so I'd rather sleeve the whole PSU. Besides the PSU will last build after build. I guess I can kiss the warranty good bye if it still has one but, it's proven to be old faithful.

EDIT: Nice gallery.


----------



## Lidrager

Pump and paracord:


----------



## cdoublejj

How do i know how much sleeve to buy and where can i buy paracord?


----------



## BlazinJoker

My buddy Lutro0 has a nice guide here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1122053/lutro0-customs-sleeving-tool-tutorials
Good luck!


----------



## MijnWraak

I've missed you guys! Updated the OP with help from Lutr0 (he isn't paying me, don't worry). Not done yet, but it's there!

Now, who wants to donate some Vanilla Sands MDPC sleeve so I can finish up my PSU?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*
> 
> I've missed you guys! Updated the OP with help from Lutr0 (he isn't paying me, don't worry). Not done yet, but it's there!
> Now, who wants to donate some Vanilla Sands MDPC sleeve so I can finish up my PSU?


Psh, I dont pay. But you can pay me.


----------



## shnur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*
> 
> I've missed you guys! Updated the OP with help from Lutr0 (he isn't paying me, don't worry). Not done yet, but it's there!
> Now, who wants to donate some Vanilla Sands MDPC sleeve so I can finish up my PSU?


I was wondering where you went! Glad to have you back


----------



## SmasherBasher

Welcome back, MW!







You have quite the amount of updating to do


----------



## y01p0w3r3d

after reading all of this, well not all 600 pages of it but enough to convince me to order from mdpc-x for good sleeving








heres what i got comming:
_2x Heatshrink SMALL - BLACK , 1x Sleeve SMALL - B-MAGIC ( 10meters ), 1x Sleeve SMALL - BLACK ( 10meters )
cost me €25.36 EUR witch is about $33.70 USD with shipping_
gonna be a nice color combo









i ordered 1/2 of what i need cause i have my credit card and car loan on same day i need to pay lol







..
i have to make sure my bills are paid first before i order the rest, ya know...


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y01p0w3r3d*
> 
> after reading all of this, well not all 600 pages of it but enough to convince me to order from mdpc-x for good sleeving
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> heres what i got comming:
> _2x Heatshrink SMALL - BLACK , 1x Sleeve SMALL - B-MAGIC ( 10meters ), 1x Sleeve SMALL - BLACK ( 10meters )
> cost me €25.36 EUR witch is about $33.70 USD with shipping_
> gonna be a nice color combo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i ordered 1/2 of what i need cause i have my credit card and car loan on same day i need to pay lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..
> i have to make sure my bills are paid first before i order the rest, ya know...


I hope you have a great time sleeving buddy! Its a great hobby. If you get stuck or have any questions please feel free to post in here or if you like shoot me a Pm!


----------



## y01p0w3r3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I hope you have a great time sleeving buddy! Its a great hobby. If you get stuck or have any questions please feel free to post in here or if you like shoot me a Pm!


iwas gonna start the im not ur buddy friend pal thing but ill refrain myself from that lol

im sure ill have a good time doing it, thanks Lutro0 buddy


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y01p0w3r3d*
> 
> iwas gonna start the im not ur buddy friend pal thing but ill refrain myself from that lol
> im sure ill have a good time doing it, thanks Lutro0 buddy


LOL, yea the pal/buddy thing tends to be a habit, I do it in RL as well. But you tend to be that way when your a Pastor.


----------



## cdoublejj

I'll probably get banned for saying this, first know i actually put in a rather large order from mdpc, specially considering i went over budget. Every one claims to not be a fan boi but, that mdpc is probably the best, and maybe this is true but, if your not trying to be biased you should probably compare or mention other products too. sure it isn't good maybe even by a long shot but, there should be like list with like best and second best etc etc.

Not trying to make fun of any one or anything i've been watching a lot of youtube videos and looking at web sites and pictures other than ocn, and it seems to be a trend every one is on about mdpc but, it's not the only choice. para cord is another choice but, i was doing some shopping and noticed i could if i was rich, order some parts sleeved and the even mentioned some brands as well as generic. some of those brands were triple braid at that. So i know there are other products out there. not trying to be "mean" just critiquing i guess.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> I'll probably get banned for saying this, first know i actually put in a rather large order from mdpc, specially considering i went over budget. Every one claims to not be a fan boi but, that mdpc is probably the best, and maybe this is true but, if your not trying to be biased you should probably compare or mention other products too. sure it isn't good maybe even by a long shot but, there should be like list with like best and second best etc etc.
> Not trying to make fun of any one or anything i've been watching a lot of youtube videos and looking at web sites and pictures other than ocn, and it seems to be a trend every one is on about mdpc but, it's not the only choice. para cord is another choice but, I was doing some shopping and noticed i could if i was rich, order some parts sleeved and the even mentioned some brands as well as generic. some of those brands were triple braid at that. So i know there are other products out there. not trying to be "mean" just critiquing i guess.


Naw, you wont get banned for saying that lol

There sure is a ton of sleeving out there from Kobra Sleeving & Mod/Smarts & Dazmod's own brand to the ton of Chinese made Knock-offs. Both in this op and my own FAQ I put up a few alternatives for sleeving. LINK

The reason why the others are not mentioned, is because they are either too expencive, their quality is poor, or they just plain dont work. In the world of sleever there is a ton of choices but from one who has tried just about every type of sleeving/heatshrink out there there is really only a few types that are worth investing into due to quality/price.

So the reason the trend is to point to MDPC is simply because it is that good. I try my best to not favor anyone or anything but when it comes to quality and everything you look for in heatshrink and a plastic sleeving I cant help but to suggest MDPC.

But everyone is entitled to their opinion and there is people out there that like and prefer other kinds. {uZa}DOA, from EVGA, for example is a firm believer in paracord.

But I do agree with you somepeople tend to go overboard lol


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> I'll probably get banned for saying this, first know i actually put in a rather large order from mdpc, specially considering i went over budget. Every one claims to not be a fan boi but, that mdpc is probably the best, and maybe this is true but, if your not trying to be biased you should probably compare or mention other products too. sure it isn't good maybe even by a long shot but, there should be like list with like best and second best etc etc.
> Not trying to make fun of any one or anything i've been watching a lot of youtube videos and looking at web sites and pictures other than ocn, and it seems to be a trend every one is on about mdpc but, it's not the only choice. para cord is another choice but, i was doing some shopping and noticed i could if i was rich, order some parts sleeved and the even mentioned some brands as well as generic. some of those brands were triple braid at that. So i know there are other products out there. not trying to be "mean" just critiquing i guess.


You won't get banned for stating an opinion, that is unless you swear









But yeah, there are some good yet cheap alternatives to MDPC.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I try my best to not favor anyone or anything but, it's just not scientifically possible because MDPC is win


Fixed J/K









Really though I guess it is just that simple. I look forward to my package arriving, I almost wish they had tracking.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> Fixed J/K
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really though I guess it is just that simple. I look forward to my package arriving, I almost wish they had tracking.


There's tracking, you can e-mail Nils and give him your order number. He should be able to give you a tracking number, forget which site to use it on but he should be able to provide you that too.

If it's already in the US I'm quite certain it gets taken by USPS which should take an additional 3-5 days depending on how far away you are from New York.


----------



## cdoublejj

dude i'm in missouri, it's gonna be a while.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> dude i'm in missouri, it's gonna be a while.


Shouldn't be that long then, I live in Illinois and it takes 1-1.5 weeks, 2 weeks at the most for my package to arrive.

Make sure somebody is at home to sign the package from USPS.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Typical. I go to crimp some wires today and as it turns out my gpu power cable wire is 16AWG, which doesn't fit in the crimping tool







So i'm trying to find some black wire in NZ but that is not an easy task. I've found some that I think might be okay but I'm not sure and could use a second opinion.

This stuff here: http://newzealand.rs-online.com/web/p/hookup-equipment-wire/1771292/

Specs in short: Cross sectional area 0.96 mm², outer diameter 1.75mm with a max operating temp of +200c


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*
> 
> Typical. I go to crimp some wires today and as it turns out my gpu power cable wire is 16AWG, which doesn't fit in the crimping tool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So i'm trying to find some black wire in NZ but that is not an easy task. I've found some that I think might be okay but I'm not sure and could use a second opinion.
> This stuff here: http://newzealand.rs-online.com/web/p/hookup-equipment-wire/1771292/
> Specs in short: Cross sectional area 0.96 mm², outer diameter 1.75mm with a max operating temp of +200c


You will not want to get that wire as it has a larger than normal coating on it.

18awg 300v with an Outside Diameter of no more than .0403 inches is what you will want.

0.0403 inches = 1.02362 millimeters

You would had had a hard time doing it with the 600v wire.


----------



## longroadtrip

spider...take a look at this wire..should meet your needs.


----------



## y01p0w3r3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> dude i'm in missouri, it's gonna be a while.


thats nothing, im in southern california lol


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> spider...take a look at this wire..should meet your needs.


PERFECT! That's exactly what I was looking for! Thank you so much! I honestly spent about an hour poring over their site trying to find the right stuff and you come along and bam.... haha. Thank you so much


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*
> 
> PERFECT! That's exactly what I was looking for! Thank you so much! I honestly spent about an hour poring over their site trying to find the right stuff and you come along and bam.... haha. Thank you so much


Unless I'm reading it wrong it looks like that size is actually a whole mm thicker than the recomended. it says the Outer Diameter is 2.01mm : Thats a thick wire.


----------



## longroadtrip

Lutro0...according to Nils @ MDPC, you want your 18AWG wire to be:

"Outer diameter for the big ones should be between 2mm and 2.4mm imho. Insulation is usually PVC. I would not take the more flexible "silicone" and similar insulated wires. Insulation is too soft for crimping and cables are too "weak". Companies don't really matter. A wire is too simple as if it would matter. You can watch the maximum temperature though. Cheap ones usually just take something between 70 and 80C° (and that's why most don't name it). More expensive ones take more than 100C°. Pre-tinned is nicer than bare copper imho."

That wire I linked is perfect for what she wants and is almost exactly the same as what I use.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Yes, that's what I was going off too longroadtrip. I did manage to crimp the 16AWG wires in the end so I'm sure this stuff will be a walk in the park in comparison anyway


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Lutro0...according to Nils @ MDPC, you want your 18AWG wire to be:
> "Outer diameter for the big ones should be between 2mm and 2.4mm imho. Insulation is usually PVC. I would not take the more flexible "silicone" and similar insulated wires. Insulation is too soft for crimping and cables are too "weak". Companies don't really matter. A wire is too simple as if it would matter. You can watch the maximum temperature though. Cheap ones usually just take something between 70 and 80C° (and that's why most don't name it). More expensive ones take more than 100C°. Pre-tinned is nicer than bare copper imho."
> That wire I linked is perfect for what she wants and is almost exactly the same as what I use.


Ah, I'm not implying that that wire wont work or that Nils is wrong. I am however suggesting, That you try something new due to lots of personal use and trying lots of different kinds when I was building my guides. It depends on if you want to try to get some of the heatshrink inside of the connector for a cleaner look of course but really even if you don't it helps. But the sole reason I have been able to achieve that in my sleeving has been my wire diameter.

Here is an example of what I am saying.

The reason it smoothly goes into the connector with "ease" is from the diameter of the wire. Again not saying that cant be achieved from other wire, just that its so much easier with a smaller diameter.

Again I am not arguing anything here and you are free to choose, and both with work just fine. I just know from personal use that if you stick to that diameter you will have a much easier time. But you are free to choose as everyone has a preference.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecrtAgentMan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> dude i'm in missouri, it's gonna be a while.
> 
> 
> 
> Shouldn't be that long then, I live in Illinois and it takes 1-1.5 weeks, 2 weeks at the most for my package to arrive.
> 
> Make sure somebody is at home to sign the package from USPS.
Click to expand...

thats what i would call a while, and half the time they come when no one is home. I paid the 18 pound shipping maybe it's faster?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> thats what i would call a while, and half the time they come when no one is home. I paid the 18 pound shipping maybe it's faster?


If you paid more that is probably because you hit the next shipping weight size, did you make a big order? lol

I live in South Dakota thats about as middle in the USA as you can get! It takes me about a week and a little to get it. If its over a week and you want him to check into it, just shoot him an email he will get you some tracking or some info asap.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Ah, I'm not implying that that wire wont work or that Nils is wrong. I am however suggesting, That you try something new due to lots of personal use and trying lots of different kinds when I was building my guides. It depends on if you want to try to get some of the heatshrink inside of the connector for a cleaner look of course but really even if you don't it helps. But the sole reason I have been able to achieve that in my sleeving has been my wire diameter.
> Here is an example of what I am saying.
> 
> The reason it smoothly goes into the connector with "ease" is from the diameter of the wire. Again not saying that cant be achieved from other wire, just that its so much easier with a smaller diameter.
> Again I am not arguing anything here and you are free to choose, and both with work just fine. I just know from personal use that if you stick to that diameter you will have a much easier time. But you are free to choose as everyone has a preference.










No worries Lutro0...I hope I don't come across as argumentative either (that is the last thing I want to do)

I'm always interested in trying new techniques! And I certainly wouldn't argue with your results as they are beautiful!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No worries Lutro0...I hope I don't come across as argumentative either (that is the last thing I want to do)
> I'm always interested in trying new techniques! And I certainly wouldn't argue with your results as they are beautiful!


As we discussed I will send you some in a envelope so you can try.







Have a good one bud!


----------



## shineon2011

Have any of you done Shrinkless sata power cables? Curious to see if anyone has worked with the AX series PSU's and kept the plastic top on the sata power cables? Thinking of using one piece of sleeving on each wire and snapping the plastic piece on top of it. Going to play around some more.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Yes I have done it. You can take the plastic off but you still need a hole in the sleeve so the wire can make contact with the plug if you are wanting to use only one piece of sleeve per wire. I found that I was able to put the plastic cover back on afterwards too.


----------



## audiofreak95

spiderm0nkey that is awesome i couldn't figure that out when i sleeved my psu


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audiofreak95*
> 
> spiderm0nkey that is awesome i couldn't figure that out when i sleeved my psu


Thanks







It's easy enough to do. Just cut a thin rectangle out of the sleeve where the wire needs to contact the plug. You'll have to cut away most of it (I had about 4 or 5 strands left!!) in order to fit the plastic cover on again but it's enough for it to hold strong from what I've found. The cable I did in those pictures was just a test to see if the method was feasible but I didn't sleeve any further than that. I expect you'll have to be quite accurate with your cutting in order for the sleeve to fit properly.

One thing worth noting is that I used furryletter's Clean Cut sleeve for it, not MDPC. Clean Cut sleeve doesn't expand and can withstand some cutting without much fraying. I'm not sure how well MDPC would hold up in comparison since it needs to be stretched in order for the weave to lock tight.


----------



## mav2000

That looks really great...a bit more info woould be really useful. Are u cutting only one side of the sleeving?


----------



## shineon2011

Thanks spidermonkey! Im using paracord but its a pita to cut a slot out of the sleeving. But it looks so much better when used with one sleeving rather than heatshrink.


----------



## wot

Hi guys, Happy New Year!
After reading 100+ pages, I ordered my sleeving today at MDPC-X!
Thanks to OCN, *KShirza1* and *Doc1355* for the inspiration!


----------



## Lutro0

That's awesome spider, I've worked out a method close to that for MDPC but you still need a bit of hs because it frays a bit so if you cut it like that it looks a bit messy without a small amount of heatshrink. Good job!
I've always enjoyed the feel of clean cut as well, and Barry is just an awesome guy to boot!


----------



## Doc1355

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> Hi guys, Happy New Year!
> After reading 100+ pages, I ordered my sleeving today at MDPC-X!
> Thanks to OCN, *KShirza1* and *Doc1355* for the inspiration!


You are welcome man!
Im looking forward to see your cables


----------



## Ragsters

Does anyone have some red shrink they can trade me for black? I just need enough for like 2-3 wires.


----------



## cdoublejj

I'm glad your talking AX series, as i have a tx850w and I'M SCREWED i have double power cables for each molex on top of it being non modular.
also i got my mdpc before some of my other orders shipped from the us.


----------



## shineon2011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> I'm glad your talking AX series, as i have a tx850w and I'M SCREWED i have double power cables for each molex on top of it being non modular.
> also i got my mdpc before some of my other orders shipped from the us.


Ya the AX series is pain. Sata power cables are the hardest ones Ive done. Problem is that there is no good way of cutting holes out of paracord. I've tried messing around with some but I haven't figured a easier way yet.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shineon2011*
> 
> Ya the AX series is pain. Sata power cables are the hardest ones Ive done. Problem is that there is no good way of cutting holes out of paracord. I've tried messing around with some but I haven't figured a easier way yet.


I'm with you on that, I just ended up making extension cables, the AX line has a really weird pin layout and it's not that great for sleeving. If I had known how bad the AX line was to sleeve I would have gone for the Silverstone Strider line instead.


----------



## tmaven

tell me more about pain and sata power cables!







cant do good hole to my paracord aswell


----------



## Lutro0

Well as some of you know I have been in debilitating back pain and am just waiting for a back surgery at the end of Feb and because of that I have not been posting much photos as the most simple of things take a long time to get done, but here is some of my last two orders!


















to mingqi53 & ramkatral!


----------



## cdoublejj

so whats a ball park on a sleeve job on an TX850w all cables except molex 4 pin rails? i for see pain in my future with jig or confidence and possibly some other tool i'm over looking.

EDIT: the reason i ask is because it's a done deal i have about 115.00 usd in mdpc now sitting, sounds like it takes more time than any thing the only hard part looks to be the 4pin since there are 8 wires per 4 pin and since i have no mdpc crimper or extra pin PLUS that fact i'll probably only have a 1 or 2 items hooking up to the 4 pin molex why bother, ever other rail can be done.


----------



## shnur

You can just cut the extra wires that you don't need. Just make sure to isolate them properly.

Some cables I just got from Lutro0


----------



## cdoublejj

you can't cut them it's a series circuit. who around here sleeves for money?


----------



## y01p0w3r3d

series circut? i never seen a ps that has one inline or are you talking about on the ps pcb itself for that cable lead?
idont think a ps can tell if, let say you cutt off the floppy connectors ext from a run of 4 pin molex connectors....
dont know if thats tru or not, but it sounds about right that it cant tell the difference. its just one less 6" ext

heres the video where he cuts off one extention...it has lots of info on how to cutt off the ext wire
its what i plan to do to get rid of the floppy connectors off my ps

awesome video btw op


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y01p0w3r3d*
> 
> series circut? i never seen a ps that has one inline or are you talking about on the ps pcb itself for that cable lead?
> idont think a ps can tell if, let say you cutt off the floppy connectors ext from a run of 4 pin molex connectors....
> dont know if thats tru or not, but it sounds about right that it cant tell the difference. its just one less 6" ext
> heres the video where he cuts off one extention...it has lots of info on how to cutt off the ext wire
> its what i plan to do to get rid of the floppy connectors off my ps
> awesome video btw op


Thanks bud I appreciate the compliment, however I was not the OP of this thread.


----------



## y01p0w3r3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Thanks bud I appreciate the compliment, however I was not the OP of this thread.


oops.. still an awesome video


----------



## cdoublejj

each 4pin is in series circuit you clip one and the res down the line no longer work as seen here.



EDIT: if I fold over the pins i could slide the sleeve right on over the pin and down the rail.

I also plan i recycling the PSU build after build and don't plan on cutting any wires/connectors so far.


----------



## y01p0w3r3d

so if i understand this right, if i cut the floppy pigtail in the series from that branch, the rest wont function cause power is disrupted?
most power supplys are like this: PS----4pin----4pin----4pin---floppy 4pin , for each series. there is only one path in which its current can flow.
_Example, the light bulbs in an older-style string of Christmas tree lights burns out or is removed, the entire string becomes inoperable until the bulb is replaced_.. does this example apply to a power supply?

So by me cutting off the floppy power connector is like pulling the bulb out and thus breaking the circut? if i do it exactly as he did in the video. their wont be anything their and it will be llike the connector wasnt even their and the circut will still be complete ?


----------



## Imrac

You can remove any connector from the cable without affecting the others, as long as the remaining connectors are attached to the power supply.

Basically:

PS----4pin----4pin----4pin--X--floppy

X being were you would cut the floppy part off the wire.

The connectors are in parallel, not series.

Series is where the negative of one component goes into the positive of another component.

On the left is a series circuit, or the right is a parallel circuit.


----------



## scubadiver59

I thank you all for your previous posts...they are both informative and inspiring, not to mention another drain on my retirement fund!









Just starting my build. My extended MM Ascension (Anodized Black) arrives tomorrow, Tuesday (10 Jan), and my two Corsair AX1200s arrive on Wednesday (11 Jan). I already have the Asus Maximus IV Extreme-Z mobo; so once I get the case together and take some pics, I might post them for some recommendations on color combination.

In the meantime, during the downtime while I await my bank account to recover, I think I'll try my hand at sleeving some old power supplies or some of my many Molex extension cables I have laying around for practice. I might try the parachute cord, if I can find some nearby, or I might invest in some MDPC sleeves...I'm not sure yet. Either way, both of the power supplies will have to be sleeved, not to mention the other cables I have planned.

To those that have gone before me...thank you all!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scubadiver59*
> 
> I thank you all for your previous posts...they are both informative and inspiring, not to mention another drain on my retirement fund!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just starting my build. My extended MM Ascension (Anodized Black) arrives tomorrow, Tuesday (10 Jan), and my two Corsair AX1200s arrive on Wednesday (11 Jan). I already have the Asus Maximus IV Extreme-Z mobo; so once I get the case together and take some pics, I might post them for some recommendations on color combination.
> In the meantime, during the downtime while I await my bank account to recover, I think I'll try my hand at sleeving some old power supplies or some of my many Molex extension cables I have laying around for practice. I might try the parachute cord, if I can find some nearby, or I might invest in some MDPC sleeves...I'm not sure yet. Either way, both of the power supplies will have to be sleeved, not to mention the other cables I have planned.
> To those that have gone before me...thank you all!


Hey no problem at all and I think I can say that from everyone.

Give my video guides a look before you start before you buy mdpc or paracord as you will get a better idea on whats involved.

If I may give my opinion though, you will want to start with MDPC as its a great material to learn with and is more forgiving on the clean side that paracord. And I can say this because of the many people I have gotten started into sleeving and not just my opinion but many of them. Yes its more expencive but you will be overall happier with a better outcome.

If you have any questions please feel free to shoot me a pm.


----------



## cdoublejj

that is correct is is parallel what was i thinking saying series. still you wack off the first 4 pin and expect the others to work with out splicing the wires back. i have no pin or splicing tools for this job, but, i don't think that is a big deal.


----------



## y01p0w3r3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imrac*
> 
> You can remove any connector from the cable without affecting the others, as long as the remaining connectors are attached to the power supply. Basically:
> 
> PS----4pin----4pin----4pin--X--floppy... X being were you would cut the floppy part off the wire.
> The connectors are in parallel, not series. Series is where the negative of one component goes into the positive of another component.
> On the left is a series circuit, or the right is a parallel circuit.


thank you Imrac for making it clear ro me, now i understand it alot more


----------



## y01p0w3r3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> that is correct it *is parallel* what was i thinking saying series. still you wack off the first 4 pin and expect the others to work with out splicing the wires back. i have no pin or splicing tools for this job, but, i don't think that is a big deal.


all u really need is some small angle cutters and a needle nose plier like in the video... just watch the video i quoted above and he explains it alot....


----------



## scubadiver59

Advice appreciated...although paracord, if I can find it locally, will be fine for learning on my old/spare cables; like the M-F 4-pin Molex extender with a 3-pin trailer off of the male Molex I just found in my office pile of trash cables.

"For practice only" with the paracord. I know I won't be a *Lutro0* on the first pass, but I have aspirations and plenty of time to practice (not to mention plenty of spare cables and a few dead PSUs that I can ruin in the process/practice on). And besides, I was in the military, 24.5 years total, and i know how to melt paracord, just not on this scale.

And trust me...I'm not shy and will ask when I need to...despite the ridicule I may garner.

After all, nobody has died yet sleeving...have they???









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Hey no problem at all and I think I can say that from everyone.
> Give my video guides a look before you start before you buy mdpc or paracord as you will get a better idea on whats involved.
> If I may give my opinion though, you will want to start with MDPC as its a great material to learn with and is more forgiving on the clean side that paracord. And I can say this because of the many people I have gotten started into sleeving and not just my opinion but many of them. Yes its more expencive but you will be overall happier with a better outcome.
> If you have any questions please feel free to shoot me a pm.


----------



## y01p0w3r3d

i dont think thats happened yet, cut themselves yes.. heck i managed to cut myself opening pack of cheese


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y01p0w3r3d*
> 
> all u really need is some small angle cutters and a needle nose plier like in the video... just watch the video i quoted above and he explains it alot....


i'm not cutting or splicing any thing also if you notice those 2 tabs he bend back down at about 10 mins in only over lap they don't dig back into the wire like should if you had an mdpc crimper and new pin. also while very helpful not quite what i mean, i'm talking about sleeving the entire parallel molex rail with out removing pins.










Also Lutro could you explain the whole tension thing when measuring out sleeve better it looks like your stretching the sleeve but, leaving slack in the wire but you say you are stretching both? i think it's an optical illusion.


----------



## y01p0w3r3d

thats a good question bro, sleeving w/o removing pins, id like an expl on that too but doesnt look like their any other way, icould be wrong tho....


----------



## wot

Got It!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> i'm not cutting or splicing any thing also if you notice those 2 tabs he bend back down at about 10 mins in only over lap they don't dig back into the wire like should if you had an mdpc crimper and new pin. also while very helpful not quite what i mean, i'm talking about sleeving the entire parallel molex rail with out removing pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also Lutro could you explain the whole tension thing when measuring out sleeve better it looks like your stretching the sleeve but, leaving slack in the wire but you say you are stretching both? i think it's an optical illusion.


Ah, when I measure out my sleeve per wire, I measure the sleeve in a slack state. I have come to be able to eyeball what lengths it needs but I always use a reference point on the pins as thats the best method I know of.

The reason I do this is because once you put it on the wire the stretch is different because now the diameter of the sleeve is different as well because it now has a wire in it. The wire does not stretch because it has pins on both sides holding it into place.


----------



## y01p0w3r3d

nice.. im still waiting on my shipment from him.. looks like it still stuck in customs


----------



## wot

pump is done


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> pump is done


Very nice!


----------



## kzone75

Getting ready for the weekend.







Had to get the tools this time. So much easier.

I know this thread is about sleeving but does anyone know if the red "fan cover" on the Antec High Current Gamer 900w is removable? I want to change color on it. And what sort of paint should be used? Also want to paint the Noctua fan shrouds..


----------



## e911

I keep seeing all these sleeved wire threads and it's making me drool more and more. I really want to do this, but I'm worried that I'll bugger something and have a fried PSU. For a n00b, anyone have suggestions on where to start, things to avoid? I've been looking at those sleeving kits from frozencpu.com but I don't like that they only have them in single colors as what I want to do is going to require 3 colors :-/

thanks everyone


----------



## mortimersnerd

Finished the production details for FTW Sleeve v2.0 (pictured left) with the original on the right.


----------



## Seventh Badger

Some pics of my first sleeving endeavor. More pics of the build here.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seventh Badger*
> 
> Some pics of my first sleeving endeavor. More pics of the build here.


Awesome


----------



## Seventh Badger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Awesome


Thanks man







. I appreciate it!


----------



## axipher

Just a few things that I could suggest:

- Adjust the sleeving a little so the cables are all lined up nicely
- Maybe paint the PCI brackets on the back of the case like I did


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Just a few things that I could suggest:
> - Adjust the sleeving a little so the cables are all lined up nicely
> - Maybe paint the PCI brackets on the back of the case like I did


On that note, When fixing the the rainbow and lining it up like AX said, you will need to really work at it, it helps if you get it set and then zip tie it behind the case otherwise they wont hold, as its already hard in the first place with sleeved.OEM psu cables.

If you have any questions please feel free to shoot me a pm if you have any questions.


----------



## zenoxide

Sorry for derailing the thread but I was looking for a picture of a PSU that look something like this in the picture. I'm trying to make a cool title but I can't find one thats sleeved and with blue and white or blue and black. If anyone has a picture like that I would assume it would be one of you guys. Thanks if you can help. If Im breaking any rules then just delete this post.


----------



## cdoublejj

where can i hire some one to sleeve my PSU?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> where can i hire some one to sleeve my PSU?


I dont give my recommendations lightly, but I dont do them right now due to time issues, (only extensions) but Martin @ http://psychosleeve.com/ Hands down is the BEST choice for your full PSU. It is a little more pricey but the quality is unsurpassed. He puts the same ammount of attention to detail as I do. Check out his gallery it will speak for itself.







Let him know I sent ya.


----------



## Lutro0

Sorry double post.


----------



## e911

do you know of anyone or if it even exists, UV Reactive sleeving?


----------



## ramkatral

Um of course it does.


----------



## e911

Can't seem to locate anyone that does/sell's it. I really want to attempt sleeving but I dont want to do it unless I can find UV sleeving.


----------



## ramkatral

I used to have some UV blue I ordered from PPCs.


----------



## Seventh Badger

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve.htm

There you go! It says which colors are UV reactive in the descriptions.


----------



## e911

I need UV Blue and Red, then standard white..


----------



## cdoublejj

Any one less expensive. i have the materials.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> Any one less expensive. i have the materials.


If you shoot him a Email he might take that into consideration, but as of right now hes the only one I would recommend for a _quality_ job. Those jobs need to be right on or you risk your powersupply and ontop of that you are wanting a clean job, so its kinda one of those you get what you pay for type situations.


----------



## shnur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> Any one less expensive. i have the materials.


I agree with Lutro0, for a guaranteed and well done job, he's the only guy I can recommend.

There are a few other around different forums, but few have the reputation of doing it, and doing it well for a few years.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> If you shoot him a Email he might take that into consideration, but as of right now hes the only one I would recommend for a _quality_ job. Those jobs need to be right on or you risk your powersupply and ontop of that you are wanting a clean job, so its kinda one of those you get what you pay for type situations.


This for sure. It is not something you want to take lightly. If you have the money to spend on sleeving, you probably aren't going to do a $30 psu. Once, sleeved, warranty is out the door. Lutro0 and Martin are the best.


----------



## brodieboy143

Just placed my first order







, went a little overboard I'll admit but I think this is the most excited I've been for a computer purchase for quite a while. Now I just need a new PSU... Anyone sleeved the AX850? I'm looking at 100% modular PSU's (so I can keep the warranty) capable of a 580 SLI Setup. Rather not have to deal with filter capacitors and the like that I've seen on some PSU's, and I'd like to avoid split/double wires in the 24 Pin connector if possible. Any recommendations?

Edit: One other thing, Is Nils out of stock on the ATX Pin remover and 4 Pin remover tools? I couldn't find them anywhere on his site
Edit 2: Never mind, I wasn't looking hard enough


----------



## tmaven

seasonic x-660 or higher?








lucky one! i want to have 160€ just for sleeving!









http://www.seasonicusa.com/X.htm


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brodieboy143*
> 
> Just placed my first order
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , went a little overboard I'll admit but I think this is the most excited I've been for a computer purchase for quite a while. Now I just need a new PSU... Anyone sleeved the AX850? I'm looking at 100% modular PSU's (so I can keep the warranty) capable of a 580 SLI Setup. Rather not have to deal with filter capacitors and the like that I've seen on some PSU's, and I'd like to avoid split/double wires in the 24 Pin connector if possible. Any recommendations?
> Edit: One other thing, Is Nils out of stock on the ATX Pin remover and 4 Pin remover tools? I couldn't find them anywhere on his site


If you are planning on sleeving it, I would suggest you get a silverstone fully modular strider series, the reason being that the cables are 1 - 1 which will make your sleeving time much more enjoyable and the results phenomenal.

But that is from a sleeving point of view.


----------



## brodieboy143

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> If you are planning on sleeving it, I would suggest you get a silverstone fully modular strider series, the reason being that the cables are 1 - 1 which will make your sleeving time much more enjoyable and the results phenomenal.
> But that is from a sleeving point of view.


Thanks, Exactly what I wanted to know, +rep. I can get the Strider Plus 850W which seems like the way to go since the gold models have the capacitors on the PCI-e cables, which would be a pain to work with. Do you know of any other 1-1 PSU's to consider? I like the Seasonic X series, especially the platinum models, but from reading around they appear to have split cables and twisted pairs.


----------



## tmaven

seasonic has double wires? what about corsair?


----------



## wot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *brodieboy143*
> 
> Just placed my first order
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , went a little overboard I'll admit but I think this is the most excited I've been for a computer purchase for quite a while. Now I just need a new PSU... Anyone sleeved the AX850? I'm looking at 100% modular PSU's (so I can keep the warranty) capable of a 580 SLI Setup. Rather not have to deal with filter capacitors and the like that I've seen on some PSU's, and I'd like to avoid split/double wires in the 24 Pin connector if possible. Any recommendations?
> Edit: One other thing, Is Nils out of stock on the ATX Pin remover and 4 Pin remover tools? I couldn't find them anywhere on his site
> 
> 
> 
> If you are planning on sleeving it, I would suggest you get a silverstone fully modular strider series, the reason being that the cables are 1 - 1 which will make your sleeving time much more enjoyable and the results phenomenal.
> 
> But that is from a sleeving point of view.
Click to expand...

This! AX850 is pain to sleeve.
PCI-x cable (4x double wires) done!


----------



## axipher

Great work on the sleeving


----------



## mingqi53

Just wanted to brag here, I got some custom Paracord cabling done by Lutro0, and the results were fantastic! Ignore the dust, that's a never-ending problem when your entire side panel is mesh!







I had never really organized my cables before, but man it makes a world of difference. My front fan of my NZXT Vulcan is no longer blocked so it's a tad bit quieter, and even dropped my temps a few degrees C!


----------



## e911

man i'm jelly







I so want to do the sleeving, but I don't want to void my warranty







grr!


----------



## mingqi53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *e911*
> 
> man i'm jelly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I so want to do the sleeving, but I don't want to void my warranty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> grr!


Well what Lutro0 sells are extensions, they connect from your existing power supply cables to your components, so it won't void your warranty. The picture I posted above doesn't show my stock PSU cables since they're all stuffed behind the motherboard plate


----------



## SmasherBasher

Lutro0 is the man


----------



## e911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*
> 
> Lutro0 is the man


so i've heard..


----------



## micul

My work so far :

First i want to start with the stuff what i used :
- Sleeve - Darkside 5/64" ( 2mm) Jet Black and Red UV
- Wire - http://www.awcwire.com/Part.aspx?partname=M22759/16-18

Finished only the PCI-E cables :

Before pics :





After a couple of work hours :











I already started to work on my 24 Pin connector . I have to learn how to take good pics. I suck on that


----------



## ClickJacker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *micul*
> 
> My work so far :
> 
> First i want to start with the stuff what i used :
> - Sleeve - Darkside 5/64" ( 2mm) Jet Black and Red UV
> - Wire - http://www.awcwire.com/Part.aspx?partname=M22759/16-18
> 
> Finished only the PCI-E cables :
> 
> Before pics :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a couple of work hours :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I already started to work on my 24 Pin connector . I have to learn how to take good pics. I suck on that


Where did you get the connections from? I have been look every where for red ones.

Sent from my SGH-I897 using Tapatalk


----------



## sawjai526

My first time sleeving









Will sleeve couple more pcie cable then 20pin.

















]


----------



## Lutro0

Taken from my Iphone as I am still dealing with back pain.


----------



## e911

dumb question.. is it possible or would it look right to sleeve the sata data cable between mb and hd?


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *e911*
> 
> dumb question.. is it possible or would it look right to sleeve the sata data cable between mb and hd?


Very possible, and it looks good too!


----------



## e911

Lutro0 do you have any in stock?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *e911*
> 
> Lutro0 do you have any in stock?


I do but can you shoot me a pm as I don't want to talk about business or advertising too much in this thread as that's not what its for.


----------



## Nemesis158

heres my 7970 with converted 8pin from lutro0 (i originally had 2x6pin cables for my 5870s. lutro0 is awesome he sent me the parts i needed for converting one of them to an 8pin) :


----------



## noob.deagle

so back on page 150ish i had decided to start a sleeving project that i never ever started however now i have money and am going to replace my HX750 with an AX850 and have mdpc-x sleeving already on its way to me (hopfully ill get it next week







) im going with a black, vivid violet colour scheme. so now that the sleeving is on the way ive started thinking about the patterns for connectors and was wondering what you all thought would work best with this combo

so far this is what ive come up with for the 24pin and the pci-e (im going to remove the +2 connector cause gtx570's dont need them) (i know its not original







)



Sata cables will be a mix of the violet and black also

this was my mdpc-x order:
Quote:


> Order Items
> 
> Product = MDPC Sleeve-Kit
> Quantity = 1
> SKU = SL-K1-BK
> Price = 35,29 €
> 
> Product = Sleeve SMALL - VIVID VIOLET
> Quantity = 2
> SKU = SL-S-VV
> Price = 7,14 €
> 
> Product = Sleeve SATA - VIVID VIOLET
> Quantity = 4
> SKU = SL-SA-VV
> Price = 5,00 €
> 
> Product = Pre-Cut Heatshrink SMALL - BLACK
> Quantity = 2
> SKU = HSC-S-BK
> Price = 3,35 €
> 
> Product = Pin-Remover 4-Pin - Save My Wallet
> Quantity = 1
> SKU = PR-SMWE
> Price = 2,50 €
> 
> SubTotal = 78,77 €
> Shipping and Handling Fee = 9,05 €


would this be enough for the whole thing ?, i figured ill just order more as needed

all of this will be going into my new silverstone FT02 cause while its nice looking on its own i think it needs some custom cables to really make it perfect









also i thought maybe you could give me some ideas basically i was thinking of mounting a LED strip under each video card so that there is a glow from under the cards between it and the mobo, my question is where would be the best spot to run the power for this? i was thinking of linking into the pci-e connections but maybe there is a 'neater' way :\

also for reference my colour scheme was inspired by EVA unit 01, i thought it would be a good combo for a pc








,


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noob.deagle*
> 
> so back on page 150ish i had decided to start a sleeving project that i never ever started however now i have money and am going to replace my HX750 with an AX850 and have mdpc-x sleeving already on its way to me (hopfully ill get it next week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) im going with a black, vivid violet colour scheme. so now that the sleeving is on the way ive started thinking about the patterns for connectors and was wondering what you all thought would work best with this combo
> so far this is what ive come up with for the 24pin and the pci-e (im going to remove the +2 connector cause gtx570's dont need them)
> Sata cables will be a mix of the violet and black also
> -snip-
> Shipping and Handling Fee = 9,05 €
> would this be enough for the whole thing ?, i figured ill just order more as needed
> all of this will be going into my new silverstone FT02 cause while its nice looking on its own i think it needs some custom cables to really make it perfect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also i thought maybe you could give me some ideas basically i was thinking of mounting a LED strip under each video card so that there is a glow from under the cards between it and the mobo, my question is where would be the best spot to run the power for this? i was thinking of linking into the pci-e connections but maybe there is a 'neater' way :\
> also for reference my colour scheme was inspired by EVA unit 01, i thought it would be a good combo for a pc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,


Ok, lets tackle this one a little bit at a time.. hah

First of all your color style, you will want to have the top row match the bottom row, the reason for this is it gives depth to the color style and makes it more prominent, if you mix it like that and dont have to totally straight and neat then it will look like a mess with no pattern.

For getting enough sleeving please look in my sleeving guide in my sig, and look at the third post which is the FAQ there is a perfect answer to your question right there and it will explain it in perfect detail for you.

The led strip idea would work granted you are using a smd strip with a sticky back, if you are willing to open your card you can pull your power offa the internal power plug (12v) and then have it come out the bottom so your would not see the hook up at all. PLEASE BE CAREFULL SO YOU DONT FRY YOUR CARD OR HURT YOURSELF!

If you have any more questions please feel free to ask in a pm or post here bud.


----------



## noob.deagle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Ok, lets tackle this one a little bit at a time.. hah
> First of all your color style, you will want to have the top row match the bottom row, the reason for this is it gives depth to the color style and makes it more prominent, if you mix it like that and dont have to totally straight and neat then it will look like a mess with no pattern.
> For getting enough sleeving please look in my sleeving guide in my sig, and look at the third post which is the FAQ there is a perfect answer to your question right there and it will explain it in perfect detail for you.
> The led strip idea would work granted you are using a smd strip with a sticky back, if you are willing to open your card you can pull your power offa the internal power plug (12v) and then have it come out the bottom so your would not see the hook up at all. PLEASE BE CAREFULL SO YOU DONT FRY YOUR CARD OR HURT YOURSELF!
> If you have any more questions please feel free to ask in a pm or post here bud.


yeah i changed the pattern to be more uniform and update the post, cause i thought the same thing after a while







, good idea with the led strip, would also mean it would just move with the card instead of being on a separate plug
routing the cable looks like it might be complicated tho due to the where the power is located under all the casing and heat spreaders



it looks like the cable would have to go underneath the bottom layer between the pcb and the heat spreader i cant imagine there would be much clearance for this tho and 'may' cause problems :\

do you know of anyone who has done a similar mod before ?, i haven't been able to find anything


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noob.deagle*
> 
> yeah i changed the pattern to be more uniform and update the post, cause i thought the same thing after a while
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , good idea with the led strip, would also mean it would just move with the card instead of being on a separate plug
> routing the cable looks like it might be complicated tho due to the where the power is located under all the casing and heat spreaders
> it looks like the cable would have to go underneath the bottom layer between the pcb and the heat spreader i cant imagine there would be much clearance for this tho and 'may' cause problems :\
> do you know of anyone who has done a similar mod before ?, i haven't been able to find anything


I have not personally, but It just came to me when I thought about it when you asked. I know it will work but it would take a little bit of experience in modding. You would route the cable for the power from the inside of the power pin, solder it to the positive and negative, then run it on the outside of the caps on the inside of the card, drill a small hole for the cable to come out the bottom of the shroud, and then have it connect to the smd strip, if done right you would see nothing but a clean black smd strip and no wiring.

Its easy if you have ever messed with any of that. If you have any more questions on it please pm me so we don't hijack the thread.


----------



## noob.deagle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I have not personally, but It just came to me when I thought about it when you asked. I know it will work but it would take a little bit of experience in modding. You would route the cable for the power from the inside of the power pin, solder it to the positive and negative, then run it on the outside of the caps on the inside of the card, drill a small hole for the cable to come out the bottom of the shroud, and then have it connect to the smd strip, if done right you would see nothing but a clean black smd strip and no wiring.
> Its easy if you have ever messed with any of that. If you have any more questions on it please pm me so we don't hijack the thread.


ah k well i probably wont do this for a long time i have the sleeving to do first (and photos to take XD) and im not 100% game in opening up my 570 until i can afford a replacement ....just in case







. thank-you for your help and the fantastic idea on how to implement this


----------



## ekg84

Just played with some paracord, i really like to work with it and how it comes out, especially without heatshrink, pardon my point and shoot pics












What you guys think?


----------



## tmaven

looks great







love purple paracord!







(i have red asus rog motherboard







((( )

How do u do paracord without heatshrink: heat end of paracord and press/rotate it to cable tightly?


----------



## [email protected]

I am very interested in your service!


----------



## y01p0w3r3d

love the black and purple ekg









btw i finaly got a lighter







lol


----------



## Oberon

About to start my new PSU sleeving!!!

Lutro0 is helping out with the sata cables!!


----------



## y01p0w3r3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oberon*
> 
> 
> About to start my new PSU sleeving!!!
> Lutro0 is helping out with the sata cables!!


dude thats a nice ps


----------



## Oberon

Thanks dude!! I saw it on NCIX and I couldn't resist. It's to replace my old Corsair Ax750(which will go on ocn for sale). Just getting ready for Ivy and kepler..


----------



## noob.deagle

ive been looking at power supplies for my upcoming sleeving project, i was going to get the corsair AX850 but having a look around ive noticed that other brands are cheaper for more wattage basically i was wondering what you all thought would be the best PSU for Sleeving ?

the PSU's im looking at are
Corsair AX850 - $245AUD
Silverstone Strider 1000W Gold ST1000G - $229AUD
Seasonic X-1050 80Plus Gold 1050W - $285AUD

i read back in this thread about page~608 that someone said that silver-stone psu's cabling is 1-1, does this mean that there is no cases of 2 wires in 1 pin ?

sorry for semi off topic


----------



## Oberon

I've heard that silverstone strider psu's are quite nice to sleeve with. i haven't dealt with my seasonic yet but I know that the platinum series should be worth a try too! Good ratings after all!


----------



## zeleni76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oberon*
> 
> 
> About to start my new PSU sleeving!!!
> Lutro0 is helping out with the sata cables!!


Hello Oberon!
Did you sleeve your ax 750? I was thinking of getting a corsair gold series PSU but since i intend to make my own cables for it i am currently searching the pin diagram for those 12 pin connectors. I have now noticed that the seasonic PSU-s have the same layout as the corsair gold series ones (if i am not mistaken seasonic produces the corsair PSU-s), do you maybe have a pin layout, or some preparation for sleeveing thse cables? Also, how does the 18+10 pin MB connector work? If you have any information or source it would be appreciated.


----------



## Oberon

No, sorry it is unsleeved. I will be selling it in about a week or so. You can buy it off me if you like


----------



## BlazinJoker

I plan on sleeving my Seasonic Platinum-1000 in the coming months just have to get going on it XD


----------



## Oberon

Hey blazinjoker!! lets keep in touch, we can help each other out!! I'll start by next week for sure.


----------



## cdoublejj

i sleeved a homemade/getto PWM 4pin fan extension cord today didn't make it fancy. Heck I didn't even cut both pieces of shrink to the same length i did have to cut up to 3 pieces of sleeve just to get it fit on, even then it was to long a by tad bit. I almost considered sleeving my own PSU but, i would have to order more sleeve cause i would probably jack quite a few pieces up. no to mention my PSU is non modular seems like an up hill Battle. may have finally found some one too sleeve my PSU. any who i did my first crapy sleeve job with mdpc today and it looks much better than bare wires.


----------



## y01p0w3r3d

well i was starting on the sata power cords since it was easier to remove but dropped the ps broke somethin else








i forgot i acc sat it 1/2 over the ledge of desk and well you know splat.... that was after the fact i had
my 12v p4 cpu ext done. ohwell stuff happens. Not all is lost as i didnt get far in the sleeving & have majority of the
sleeving saved, lost some of the shrink in process of sleeving but all is their... . can always order more..

it was a old psu i was using to learn on. you make errors, learn from them and get right back at it lol .
the good thing about this is i got my w2 early getting 1k back cause im poor and work in retail sales...
so im be lookin for a fully modular psu when i get my refund in about 1 week


----------



## Oberon

Sorry to hear that, you can buy my old AX 750 next week if you like!

PM me!


----------



## y01p0w3r3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oberon*
> 
> Sorry to hear that, you can buy my old AX 750 next week if you like!
> PM me!


thanks bro, unfort this crap had to of happened, but ohwell, ill live ....

i was thinking of either the hx or ax 650 ones, more likely the ax since its fully modular


----------



## noob.deagle

well im about to buy the new psu today however i noticed this on the silverstone strider



would this affect sleeving or is it safe to just cut off the capacitor ? any one had experience with these ?


----------



## cbrazeau1115

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noob.deagle*
> 
> well im about to buy the new psu today however i noticed this on the silverstone strider
> 
> would this affect sleeving or is it safe to just cut off the capacitor ? any one had experience with these ?


I believe you should be fine. It should just be a bundle of wire heatshrinked with the cheap plastic sleeving.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noob.deagle*
> 
> well im about to buy the new psu today however i noticed this on the silverstone strider
> 
> would this affect sleeving or is it safe to just cut off the capacitor ? any one had experience with these ?


If its a capacitor, you should leave it. If its a ferrite bead then it can be removed.


----------



## noob.deagle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> If its a capacitor, you should leave it. If its a ferrite bead then it can be removed.


its a capacitor,







will be a pain then maybe ill just pay more and go seasonic


----------



## tmaven

Maybe that capacitor does something







try to google some test with it, if not.. cut it off as normal cable


----------



## audiofreak95

cut it and splice it in in a place where the wire would be behind the motherboard


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noob.deagle*
> 
> its a capacitor,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will be a pain then maybe ill just pay more and go seasonic


which psu model it it? strider gold?


----------



## cdoublejj

Capacitors are used for smoothing/steadying for less fluctuation.


----------



## AddictedGamer93

GAH, I need an atx pin extractor desperately, these staples are pure hell to use. Anyone got any advice besides staples?


----------



## noob.deagle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> which psu model it it? strider gold?


yeah the strider golds have the capacitors on the cables, they claim its for smoothining out fluctuation on the line to the pci-e cards, however i can help but think being a 2200uf cap, that perhaps the actual PSU is 'lacking' on the mainboard why else would they do this.

in the end i bought the seasonic X-1050 gold cost a little more but dont have to deal with the caps. and from what i understand seasonic is a good brand


----------



## downlinx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AddictedGamer93*
> 
> GAH, I need an atx pin extractor desperately, these staples are pure hell to use. Anyone got any advice besides staples?


yes you do, i did staples for the first couple psu's but that just killed me.


----------



## Nemesis158

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AddictedGamer93*
> 
> GAH, I need an atx pin extractor desperately, these staples are pure hell to use. Anyone got any advice besides staples?


the problem with staples is that they bend easily. i found that using some sewing needles that have the little ball on the end of them worked much better. those needles are much stiffer so they wont just bend, plus the point goes in easier than the blunt end of the staple.


----------



## tmaven

Great idea! AX850 just came today, and I already broke three my homemade extractors









edit:
I just stab my finger!







Not so great!


----------



## tmaven

still cant get out that pin with double wire


----------



## AddictedGamer93

And how exactly do you sleeve these stupid double wires.


----------



## ixsis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noob.deagle*
> 
> yeah the strider golds have the capacitors on the cables, they claim its for smoothining out fluctuation on the line to the pci-e cards, however i can help but think being a 2200uf cap, that perhaps the actual PSU is 'lacking' on the mainboard why else would they do this.
> in the end i bought the seasonic X-1050 gold cost a little more but dont have to deal with the caps. and from what i understand seasonic is a good brand


Its odd that the cables that come with the unit have the caps but the shorter set of additional cables for the same PSU do not have the caps. I've got the Strider 750W Gold in my other system right now with the caps removed and haven't seen any negative impact.


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noob.deagle*
> 
> yeah the strider golds have the capacitors on the cables, they claim its for smoothining out fluctuation on the line to the pci-e cards, however i can help but think being a 2200uf cap, that perhaps the actual PSU is 'lacking' on the mainboard why else would they do this.
> in the end i bought the seasonic X-1050 gold cost a little more but dont have to deal with the caps. and from what i understand seasonic is a good brand


interesting, thanx for the info, do regular Strider Plus cables have capacitors also? i was going to order 600w model


----------



## Oberon

MDPC sleeving arrived.



All the goodies.



Pin removal tool



B-Magic / Black





First sleeved SATA cable. Took my 2 minutes... Looks great!


----------



## cdoublejj

I'm seriously starting to think sleeving is an obsession of photographers.


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> I'm seriously starting to think sleeving is an obsession of photographers.


i'd say its pretty popular on this forum in general, cause it just looks good


----------



## Oberon

agreed, plus its a dedication to hard work and the love of modding.


----------



## tmaven

I dont know... does corsair has some different connectors? I cant get that stupid pin out of it









It has half round/half box pin in it


----------



## cdoublejj

well i was wondering abot that sleeveless look it may be easier than regular where you can see the sleeve and you have try super hard to line the, up. i was thinking sleeveless plus the face i'm non modular may give me slack as it won't have to perfect as far as sleeve length as the other end goes inside the PSU. so long as make the connector side nice and neat.


----------



## Oberon

Quote:


> I dont know... does corsair has some different connectors? I cant get that stupid pin out of it
> 
> It has half round/half box pin in it


It just takes a bit of time. My advice is for you to lay the entire connector on its side over a table. use one hand to wiggle the pin further into the connector to loosen it up. Then while hold that connector in, insert the ATX pin removal tool in from the other end, push it in all the way. Holding the pin removal tool in and holding the ENTIRE connecter on the table with one hand, wrap the wire around a finger on your other hand, and pull. Make sure you dont just yank it really fast but a fast gradual pull with a bit of effort will get it out. It took me 10 minutes to get one out but it worked in the end!


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tmaven*
> 
> I dont know... does corsair has some different connectors? I cant get that stupid pin out of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It has half round/half box pin in it


I sleeved an AX750. Tried using a combination of staples, sewing needles, a de stitching tool, tiny electrical screwdrivers etc. After my slicing fingers open on the little fins of the pin hundreds of times and very sore fingers in genera, I bought the removal tool from MDPC-X.

The advice above is solid advice for getting the wire out-remember pull straight! You will find it a lot easier with the removal tool.


----------



## Ragsters

Does anyone have some red shrink they can sell me or trade me for some MDPC stuff? I literally need enough shrink for like two wires. Help!!!!!


----------



## Ragsters

Does anyone know how to sleeve a crossfire bridge?


----------



## y01p0w3r3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Does anyone know how to sleeve a crossfire bridge?


hmm get really fat heatshrink maybee? idunno if thy make one wide enough


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeleni76*
> 
> Hello Oberon!
> Did you sleeve your ax 750? I was thinking of getting a corsair gold series PSU but since i intend to make my own cables for it i am currently searching the pin diagram for those 12 pin connectors. I have now noticed that the seasonic PSU-s have the same layout as the corsair gold series ones (if i am not mistaken seasonic produces the corsair PSU-s), do you maybe have a pin layout, or some preparation for sleeveing thse cables? Also, how does the 18+10 pin MB connector work? If you have any information or source it would be appreciated.


If you haven't been helped yet I will send you a scan of my diagram for the power cables. the only one I have posted is in my build log and its buried under stuff on my desk. I'll be able to get it to you tomorrow when I get home.


----------



## tmaven

I gonna buy removal tool... getting !!!!!!!!! with no success









is this good? http://www.alphacool.cz/produkt/Lamptron_Modding_Tool_Kit_MT-1_-_Black.html?arg1=010320


----------



## shnur

If you're OK to buy it a few times yes; it breaks easily. Your best bet is to get the MDPC Original Molex tool remover.


----------



## tmaven

Can I buy it somewhere else? from mdpc will cost me... 30€


----------



## shnur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tmaven*
> 
> Can I buy it somewhere else? from mdpc will cost me... 30€


You can look around, but I don't think many shops sell the original/official Molex tool.

You can order sleeving/heatshrink from there too; it'll cut down on shipping costs.

Otherwise that's the cost of it. If you want to save, you can get another tool that will probably break and not always work; which in the end may end up costing you more (replacing it) in money and in time (waiting for replacement).


----------



## tmaven

The price of tool is normal, but just post is half of it..


----------



## SmasherBasher

I have a couple spares here.


----------



## Ragsters

Come on guys! Do any of you have some MDPC red shrink they would sell or trade for some MDPC stuff I have? I literally only need enough for like 3 wires. Just put a little in a regular envelope with a stamp. Please!


----------



## 4514kaiser

hey I've started sleeving a Platimax 1200w psu it use 16awg wires and its hell to sleeve the mdpc atx pin remover simply does not work so I'm have to use the bent over staple method which sort of works but is extremely slow because the staple 'breaks' all the time which means I'm having to make a new 'staple tool' ever 3 pins







.
I've just destroyed one pin housing the pins side clips ( piece of metal that hold it in place which yes I've bend out) on longer hold it in its housing.......

So any one have any tips on how i should proceed ..... should I?
Anyone have any idea how to keep the pin in its housing - super glue?
And is any one knows where i could get a new Platimax 1200w psu housing - the housing that connects to the PSU!! (NOT the side that connects to the MB!)

I have read about 5 guides (including this one its great








ty ) sleeved about 12 fans and other stuff and watched the Lutro0 which were also helpful but the MDPC pin remover method does not work







This psu is just about to make me quite sleeving simply because I see no method of replacing the Platimax connector if I destroy another pin housing! (and don't want to buy another psu!)


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> hey I've started sleeving a Platimax 1200w psu it use 16awg wires and its hell to sleeve the mdpc atx pin remover simply does not work so I'm have to use the bent over staple method which sort of works but is extremely slow because the staple 'breaks' all the time which means I'm having to make a new 'staple tool' ever 3 pins
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I've just destroyed one pin housing the pins side clips ( piece of metal that hold it in place which yes I've bend out) on longer hold it in its housing.......
> So any one have any tips on how i should proceed ..... should I?
> Anyone have any idea how to keep the pin in its housing - super glue?
> And is any one knows where i could get a new Platimax 1200w psu housing - the housing that connects to the PSU!! (NOT the side that connects to the MB!)
> I have read about 5 guides (including this one its great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ty ) sleeved about 12 fans and other stuff and watched the Lutro0 which were also helpful but the MDPC pin remover method does not work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This psu is just about to make me quite sleeving simply because I see no method of replacing the Platimax connector if I destroy another pin housing! (and don't want to buy another psu!)


To remove the pins easier try heating the actual plastic housing. This will expand it just enough to remove the pins. If you destroyed a cable try calling the PSU manufacturer and straight up tell them you broke a cable and you would like to see if they can send you a new one. It worked for me with my Seasonic x-650.


----------



## 4514kaiser

The Plastic housing on the PSU side is quite soft already i think i would damage it further if i tried to remove pins using this method but I'll give it a go for the MB connectors since i can easily get new housing for them cheers for the tips I'll also give Enermax a call and hope for the best!

Anyone else sleeved a Platimax psu and figured out a ' easy ' method to remove the pins!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> The Plastic housing on the PSU side is quite soft already i think i would damage it further if i tried to remove pins using this method but I'll give it a go for the MB connectors since i can easily get new housing for them cheers for the tips I'll also give Enermax a call and hope for the best!
> Anyone else sleeved a Platimax psu and figured out a ' easy ' method to remove the pins!


*Please watch this video starting at 2:52*






You will most likely have to use the hard method described where you wrap it around your finger. Also if you are using a home-made tool or really anything other then the original molex tool you either wont get them off or you will have a very very hard time with it. Some PSU makers use their own brand of pins that are made to hold into the houseing very very strongly almost making it impossible to get them removed without using a huge amount of force. The trick is knowing when you are using too much force, and when your tool is actually pressing down the clasps on the pin wich only come with experience. They will come off, but with alot more force than you can imagine, the trick is knowing when your tool is actually pressing the clasps down.

Also from experience, sleeving a 16awg wire is difficult due to the size of the wire, when you get to sleeving it will be hard to get the sleeve and the heatshrink into the connector like you can do with 18awg wire. So you will need to account for that when you get there. When ever I have done those ones (Enermax for example) I end up rewiring the whole thing to be 18awg.

I hope some of that helps.


----------



## cbrazeau1115

I have some questions on paracord I am hoping I can get answered! I tried to do some searches and found various pieces of information all over but nothing conclusive.

First, where are the best places to ORDER paracord. I see the suggestion of local army supply shops, but there are none of those around me. Also, how many feet do I need in order to completely sleeve my PSU. I would like to have some extra because I am sure I am going to mess up. I was thinking 200 feet would be enough? Also, what is the difference between 450 and 550 and which is recommended?

I saw a method of sleeving where heatshrink was not needed. I feel it looks amazing compared to heatshrinked sleeving. Is this method reliable and a good thing to follow?

Finally, how do I sleeve my sata cables or is this possible with paracord?

Thanks for the help! And if anyone has pattern suggestions for colors let me know! I am thinking of a combination of black/red/white with mostly black and only accents of red or white.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cbrazeau1115*
> 
> I have some questions on paracord I am hoping I can get answered! I tried to do some searches and found various pieces of information all over but nothing conclusive.
> First, where are the best places to ORDER paracord. I see the suggestion of local army supply shops, but there are none of those around me. Also, how many feet do I need in order to completely sleeve my PSU. I would like to have some extra because I am sure I am going to mess up. I was thinking 200 feet would be enough? Also, what is the difference between 450 and 550 and which is recommended?
> I saw a method of sleeving where heatshrink was not needed. I feel it looks amazing compared to heatshrinked sleeving. Is this method reliable and a good thing to follow?
> Finally, how do I sleeve my sata cables or is this possible with paracord?
> Thanks for the help! And if anyone has pattern suggestions for colors let me know! I am thinking of a combination of black/red/white with mostly black and only accents of red or white.


Amazon or eBay seems to be the easiest places to buy.

difference between 450 and 550 is the number of strands inside of it also the amount if weight its rated for. Sometimes the only diff is the number of strands but sometimes the diameter of the actuall sleeve is slightly bigger with 550, it depends on who makes it.

heatshrinkless can be done with great results if done right, otherwise it looks very very poor.

Sata with paracord is not possible at this time, due to the material not being able to expand over the plugs.

If you goto my sleeving guide link in my sig and goto the third post which is the faq it will answer how much you will need and so on.

If you look at my gallery or my sleeved extensions artisan page it will give you tons of ideas.

That should get you started.


----------



## cbrazeau1115

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Amazon or eBay seems to be the easiest places to buy.
> difference between 450 and 550 is the number of strands inside of it also the amount if weight its rated for. Sometimes the only diff is the number of strands but sometimes the diameter of the actuall sleeve is slightly bigger with 550, it depends on who makes it.
> heatshrinkless can be done with great results if done right, otherwise it looks very very poor.
> Sata with paracord is not possible at this time, due to the material not being able to expand over the plugs.
> If you goto my sleeving guide link in my sig and goto the third post which is the faq it will answer how much you will need and so on.
> If you look at my gallery or my sleeved extensions artisan page it will give you tons of ideas.
> That should get you started.


Any suggestions for doing it heatshrinkless?


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cbrazeau1115*
> 
> Any suggestions for doing it heatshrinkless?


check out this thread - the guy has decent guide for heatshrinkless paracord:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1183655/heat-shrink-free-paracord-sleeving-shrinkless-sleeving-anti-tangle-tool/0_20

heatshrinkless is the way to go it looks very clean, i'm going to get a fully modular psu and paracord it next week. For now i did few extensions just to play with it:



by the way you can also get it from FTWPC.com, i got it from there recently, also as Lutroo said amazon is a good place to get it.


----------



## moy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AddictedGamer93*
> 
> And how exactly do you sleeve these stupid double wires.


This!

I have a corsair AX850 too and am not sure how I would do the 24pin. Do I splice the wires where you won't see them?


----------



## 4514kaiser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> *Please watch this video starting at 2:52*
> 
> 
> 
> You will most likely have to use the hard method described where you wrap it around your finger. Also if you are using a home-made tool or really anything other then the original molex tool you either wont get them off or you will have a very very hard time with it. Some PSU makers use their own brand of pins that are made to hold into the houseing very very strongly almost making it impossible to get them removed without using a huge amount of force. .


Thanks for the help.... yer I saw that tip on your video a while back and have had to use it on ever pin so far







I really haven't had an easy pin thus far most require three goes to remove plus a bit of excessive force....... I've half destroyed one pin housing on the psu side (no longer falling out after some creative use of heat shrink







) and one clasp on a pin (the pin still is held nicely in place however!)

The mdpc atx tool is final starting to work on about 70% of these enemax pins and wow its tough it flights on to my desk with ever pin ........... the staple method still has to be used quite a bit works well on pins that just won't come out...... but it seriously slow.

Nearly finished the 24pin connector







which is a strange mix of 16awg, 24awg, 16+24awg, and wires connection to each other half way along the length!

I wish I had chosen a different psu like my old 460w test psu







............. the mdpc atx tool works with ease on that psu and its all 18awg! lol
Any way my WC gear order is late by 20days (dame 7970 Aquacomputer blocks) so I have quite a bit of time to get it all done now!


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> *snip*
> by the way you can also get it from FTWPC.com, i got it from there recently, also as Lutroo said amazon is a good place to get it.


This. I was just stopping by here to say that I just ordered my sleeving materials from FTWPC.com I had to pay for shipping for my Group Fan Buy fans. So I decided to order extensions, paracord, and heat shrink. Cant wait til it arrives.

BTW, anyone know what kinda sleeving Akasa uses on their fans?? Its a rubbery almost clingy feeling sleeving. Akasa Viper and Apache fans come pre sleeved with it, and I really dig it.


----------



## cbrazeau1115

300ft of paracord ordered should be here early next week!

Suggestion for which mod tool I should buy? I dont wish to destroy my fingers using a staple.


----------



## cdoublejj

how do you do the sleeveless i know it evolves a much smaller amount of shrink, i'm thinking i may find sleeveless easier as the shrink doesn't have to line up as evenly sine it is hidden.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> how do you do the sleeveless i know it evolves a much smaller amount of shrink, i'm thinking i may find sleeveless easier as the shrink doesn't have to line up as evenly sine it is hidden.


Heatshrinkless is exactly that - no heat shrink. Look for the guide in the general hardware mods section.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cbrazeau1115*
> 
> 300ft of paracord ordered should be here early next week!
> Suggestion for which mod tool I should buy? I dont wish to destroy my fingers using a staple.


Get the real molex tools. Worth the money. MDPC has them.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Get the real molex tools. Worth the money. MDPC has them.


+1 A thousand times.


----------



## cbrazeau1115

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> +1 A thousand times.


Only from them or does anyone else have them (looking for faster delivery)


----------



## Forsaken_id

HERE.

HERE.

HERE.

HERE.

There are a bunch more places, but I don't have any experience with them.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cbrazeau1115*
> 
> Only from them or does anyone else have them (looking for faster delivery)


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9388/slt-04/Original_Molex_Mini_Fit_Pin_Extraction_Tool_-_ATX_EPS_PCI-E.html#blank

or

http://ftwpc.com/cables-and-sleeving/sleeving-tools/the-original-molex-mini-fit-jr-pin-extraction-tool.html

If you want it fast you might want to go with frozen as I _think_ ftw only ships on certain days.

But if you want to give a search yourself the tool is *MOLEX 11-03-0044 Extraction Tool*

LOL... Ninjaed


----------



## cbrazeau1115

Thanks you two!


----------



## GoodInk

Can anyone tell me how you remove these fan connectors?


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Can anyone tell me how you remove these fan connectors?


Flip them over and use a ball point pen to push the part of the pin that you can see (small square). At the same time, pull on the wire and it should slide out.


----------



## GoodInk

Are you saying to remove it like a fan?



This is a 3 to 1 adapter and these are the female headers.


----------



## shnur

You have to push the pin from the inside of the connector, hard to see, hard to explain









It's there though; same principle as the fan header!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur*
> 
> You have to push the pin from the inside of the connector, hard to see, hard to explain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's there though; same principle as the fan header!


From the front (pin side) or the back (wire side)? Would a safety pin work?


----------



## shnur

From the pin.

What you mean by "safety pin"?


----------



## GoodInk

Sorry, a plain old pin.



I tried using this with no luck


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Are you saying to remove it like a fan?


Oops, my bad. Work monitor is quite bad and the pic looked like a fan plug. Yeah, those you should be able to remove with staples or a small sewing needle. They are tricky.


----------



## shnur

Check out this graph a friend of mine made; maybe it'll help you understand









http://www.abload.de/img/lfterstecker4s71.jpg


----------



## GoodInk

Thanks for the help, time to find that damn sewing kit I have laying around somewhere.


----------



## ekg84

Just finished sleeving 24-pin, jeez my fingers hirt













what do u guys think of this color scheme? it will go with enermax vegas duo fans


----------



## Badwrench

Great color combo ekg84. Looks sharp.


----------



## tmaven

great job!


----------



## GoodInk

Looks great!







Can you only do the shrinkless with paracord? I'm having problems with my shrink not fitting in the 24 pin connector if I put the shrink over the first crimp to keep it from slipping. I've tried putting the wire in cold, warm, and hot. It's hitting at the top side of the crimp and I've push so hard that the connector is cutting the shrink but I still can't get it in the hole. So far it hasn't slipped, I'm melting the sleeve under the shrink to help keep it in place. There is a couple wires that are a smaller gauge and the shrink isn't shrinking enough to be tight on the wire but the melted sleeve seems to be working for now. Does anyone have any tips? I can take some good pics if that would help.


----------



## audiofreak95

yes pictures would help to see whats happening


----------



## GoodInk

Alright this is what isn't fitting










The shrink going over the crimp is too big to go in to the hole of the connector.










This is what I have been doing because of it, but I am worried it may slip over time.


----------



## shnur

Actually, you should bring the shrink all the way to the pin. The most important thing is to put it in the connector BEFORE its cold again. Cold = hard, hot = soft.

Check out Nils' explanation of it; you can't miss it with that!

http://www.mdpc-x.com/guide/mdpc-x-shrink-guide-00xx11.jpg


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Alright this is what isn't fitting
> 
> The shrink going over the crimp is too big to go in to the hole of the connector.
> 
> This is what I have been doing because of it, but I am worried it may slip over time.


A big key is that you melt the sleeve as well underneath the heatshrink. Think about it, if the spot where it cannot get into is the spot of greatest width (heatshrink/sleeve/wire) then you need to keep the heatgun on the hs until the sleeve underneath is melted a bit.

But I agree with shnur the above method is the best.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur*
> 
> Actually, you should bring the shrink all the way to the pin. The most important thing is to put it in the connector BEFORE its cold again. Cold = hard, hot = soft.
> 
> Check out Nils' explanation of it; you can't miss it with that!
> 
> http://www.mdpc-x.com/guide/mdpc-x-shrink-guide-00xx11.jpg


I've tried that too, it still wouldn't go in and this was on one of the wires that is a smaller gauge and still no love.







Ignore the messed up sleeve, this was just a test

















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Alright this is what isn't fitting
> 
> The shrink going over the crimp is too big to go in to the hole of the connector.
> 
> This is what I have been doing because of it, but I am worried it may slip over time.
> 
> 
> 
> A big key is that you melt the sleeve as well underneath the heatshrink. Think about it, if the spot where it cannot get into is the spot of greatest width (heatshrink/sleeve/wire) then you need to keep the heatgun on the hs until the sleeve underneath is melted a bit.
> 
> But I agree with shnur the above method is the best.
Click to expand...

The part not going in is where the crimp is, the sleeve isn't going over that part. I have my heat gun turned up high enough to melt the sleeve under the shrink to the point that I can see where the sleeve was at if strip it back down.










Idk if I'm being overly worried about it slipping, I'm able to stretch the sleeving with no problems. It's just my first time sleeving and don't want it looking like crap later on.


----------



## Lutro0

Just for kicks what gauge is that wire?


----------



## GoodInk

It says 16 gauge, holding it on my ruler its about 2.5mm thick, stock wiring on a CM Silent Pro 850 watt.


----------



## cdoublejj

since i have a non modular does the opening the cables go into on PSU case need to be enlarged? i'm thinking it will need to be at least twice the size.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> It says 16 gauge, holding it on my ruler its about 2.5mm thick, stock wiring on a CM Silent Pro 850 watt.


I was thinking that was your problem man. =/ I have never ever been able to sleeve 16 gauge wire with a clean outcome. I always had to rewire them with a special wire that I use that has a thick core and a thin coat to make it a smaller gauge. You can find new wire on amazon. But I tried a ton of times and could never get 16 gauge. =(


----------



## GoodInk

Thanks Lutro


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Thanks Lutro


No problem man, sorry I didnt figure it out sooner.


----------



## shnur

Photo time!









MDPC-X Sleeving; by Lutro0 (and me for the SATA power cable on the back







)


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Great color combo ekg84. Looks sharp.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tmaven*
> 
> great job!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Looks great!


thanx guys, here is what it looks like in the system:


----------



## Ragsters

Does anyone have like 3 inches of red shrink they can send me. I ran out with two wires to go. I can't even install my new video card because of it


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> thanx guys, here is what it looks like in the system:


OMG!! I love that color scheme


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> thanx guys, here is what it looks like in the system:


Damn.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur*
> 
> Photo time!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MDPC-X Sleeving; by Lutro0 (and me for the SATA power cable on the back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> -snip-][/URL]


Perfect rainbow!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> thanx guys, here is what it looks like in the system:


Such a clean mod, Nice job bud. Lets get that 24 pin straightened out a bit. It will straighten up a bit if you play with it a while.


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Such a clean mod, Nice job bud. Lets get that 24 pin straightened out a bit. It will straighten up a bit if you play with it a while.


thank you mate, the problem with 24-pin is that cable cutout is not aligned with 24-pin connector on the mobo also 5 1/4" bay kinda in the middle of the connector so i had to angle it slightly, but i'll play with it more, thanx for advice









btw how is your back man?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> thank you mate, the problem with 24-pin is that cable cutout is not aligned with 24-pin connector on the mobo also 5 1/4" bay kinda in the middle of the connector so i had to angle it slightly, but i'll play with it more, thanx for advice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw how is your back man?


Awww bummer =/ on the cutout.

My back seems to be doing ok, they have me on a decent amount of meds, but its not really a battle of how we can make the pain go away because I dont think its possible because its my actual main spine nerves that branch out that's being pinched. But more so just trying to make it bearable until my surgery on the 24th. So it seems like we have a good shot of making it without having to mess with them again, but I have my good days and my bad days. I appreciate you asking! Everyone has been very supportive about it, puts a smile on my face almost daily.


----------



## adi518

Gotta say this site made me caught the bug real strong lol









didn't have time to get all the sleeving tools, learn how to sleeve, etc' etc'. So I made a custom order from Hong Kong.

after obtaining the goods and spending good hours trying to get cable management done like the pr0s in this forum I came up with this:










I guess it's not as satisfying as doing everything yourself, but for the amount of time I had to spend on it, I think it's "mission accomplished".









** initially meant to post this under "rate my cables" , I mixed the threads .. oh well. :]


----------



## noob.deagle

my Sleeving finally arrived











i used my CSS gamer alias, for my mdpc account, i guess i have my new spray image













sorry for bad quality images, all i have is a galaxy nexus at my disposal


----------



## Ragsters

^ I love vivid violet!


----------



## noob.deagle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> ^ I love vivid violet!


yeah it looks really nice against dark colours imo, will look awesome in my black ft02 i think


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Does anyone have like 3 inches of red shrink they can send me. I ran out with two wires to go. I can't even install my new video card because of it


If I had it I would send it. I can send you some MDPC black though...


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> If I had it I would send it. I can send you some MDPC black though...


I have plenty of black but I really appreciate the gesture.


----------



## B3anbag

Sorry for the laziness in asking this question, but i've literally read nearly half of 6200+ posts in this thread and my eyes are really tired....does anyone know where pre-sleeved sata Power cables could be purchased? I know buying pre-sleeved is a cheat, i wont feel as proud, and defeats most of what OCN'ers stand for, but...
Or anyone looking to make a bit o' green? I'm going to take a crack at doing the data cables myself, guess i will be needing actual sata sleeving afterall though. Five total devices, 1 optical, 1 ssd and 3 hdds.

A lot of NICE work in here and some great tips and advice. I really appreciate that people offer constructive criticism in here, rather than just sayin "you suck" or "did you sleeve one handed?" and the like; nice to see everyone playing nice


----------



## BlazinJoker

Lutro0 did a video on them hope this helps


----------



## cdoublejj

what is the best way to cut consistent heat shrink?


----------



## B3anbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lutro0 did a video on them hope this helps


can't really do youtube or even videos on here, my connection is poop. literally takes about 20 minutes to watch 2 minutes worth of video. is that the video he did on regular sata or is it power? i know the first page of this thread has his "no, im pointing the camera at your feet" how to sleeve sata data cable vid









thank you for the tip though, i'll see what i can do about viewing it.


----------



## noob.deagle

finished my 1st major cable the pci-e cable, i removed the extra +2 connectors cause i didnt need them for this card will have to keep one for my other one tho, overall i think it looks ok most of the heat-shrinks were ok but the sleeve length varied i guess sometimes i pulled tighter than others causing differences







still for a 1st effort i think it look alright.


----------



## Forsaken_id

^^ Looks good and great for first time!









I am currently working on sleeving cables for a friend's x79 build. I am trying the "heat-shrinkless" method too on MDPC-X. I am still using HS, but only about 6-7mm which is covered by the connector the wires go into. What a pain in my fingers, the "normal" way is much easier!










I didn't white-out the wires, but it will look fine once installed. I finished the cables for his 580GTX and now dreading the 24 pin and CPU. . .


----------



## Biodragon

I was reading through here and was wondering if anyone could give me some pointers on sleeving the Seasonic Platinum 1000w PSU? Specifically the 24-pin cable. I'm sure there have been other PSUs that had the same problems I am seeing with mine. Those being, twisted cables, no pin in one spot, and dual cables going into one pin. I didn't see any pictures of someone doing a PSU that had those problems, but then again, I may have accidently skipped over the post not knowing it.


----------



## regles

For dual cables in one pin, look at Lutro0's video on molex 7 minutes into the video. You can find the video here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1122053/lutro0-customs-sleeving-tool-tutorials/0_20


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biodragon*
> 
> I was reading through here and was wondering if anyone could give me some pointers on sleeving the Seasonic Platinum 1000w PSU? Specifically the 24-pin cable. I'm sure there have been other PSUs that had the same problems I am seeing with mine. Those being, twisted cables, no pin in one spot, and dual cables going into one pin. I didn't see any pictures of someone doing a PSU that had those problems, but then again, I may have accidently skipped over the post not knowing it.


The double pins for the atx plugs will need to be spliced somewhere in the back of the case. What I mean by this is the double wires are spliced at the plug in point which is fine if there is no sleeve, but you cannot fit sleeve and heatshrink and 2 wires into the connector with a clean look. So you simple move that splice in a different spot where it is hidden. Ontic has a great pic guide that explains this. His pic guide of a double wire is top notch. http://www.overclock.net/t/1140751/project-wing-it-corsair-600t-se-introduction/60_20#post_15611551
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *regles*
> 
> For dual cables in one pin, look at Lutro0's video on molex 7 minutes into the video. You can find the video here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1122053/lutro0-customs-sleeving-tool-tutorials/0_20


That guide really only works on 4pin molex plugs as they have a larger hole. It would never be advised to be used on an atx connector as the hole is much much smaller. The method could be applied to it, but it wouldn't look right next to a single wire. But thanks for posting it.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Got the CPU power done:

















I need to figure out how to focus the right spots better, lol.


----------



## audiofreak95




----------



## adi518

Sick man


----------



## noob.deagle

Finished my 2nd PCI-e Cable yesterday came out much better, ill take better photos once its not so overcast for the moment have this terrible photo taken with a flash :\


----------



## adi518

@noob.deagle don't use flash man


----------



## noob.deagle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> @noob.deagle don't use flash man


lol yeah i know looks terrible







, unfortunately its been very overcast lately so i cant get enough light into the far corner of my room to make it visible without flash








, if we get sunny weather here anytime soon ill take better shots


----------



## adi518

use a flash light or your phone flash as a light source.

I made this using my crappy old point-n-shot cannon camera and the iphone acting as a flash light from above


----------



## audiofreak95

when I take pics I open paint and make a full white screen and turn my light off and use it as the only light source


----------



## DraXxus1549

Hey guys I have a question about a wire I found while starting to sleeve my Tx750. This is the first time that I have sleeved a PSU and I have found a wire that is actually 2 wires. I assume this is normal, do I just sleeve it like I have the last ones? Here is what it looks like.


----------



## noob.deagle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DraXxus1549*
> 
> Hey guys I have a question about a wire I found while starting to sleeve my Tx750. This is the first time that I have sleeved a PSU and I have found a wire that is actually 2 wires. I assume this is normal, do I just sleeve it like I have the last ones? Here is what it looks like.


What i did was cut one wire off and then reattach it further up the other one so you have a Y soldiered connection. Each section of the Y is then sleeved. just when you do this cut a longer piece of heat-shrink to cover the soldier joint and the 3 other pieces you use to attach the sleeving, it results look quite neat this way.

this method was also shown way back in the thread i forgot who did it.

i need to disconnect one of my cables cause i twisted it the wrong way. so when i do ill take a photo of how i did it, but that wont be till tomorrow its late here,


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Need some advice, evreytime i go on MDPC-X to try and get heatshrink it is closed. I'm looking for all black 5/16 heatshrink with thin walls so that is will fit into connectors(like mentioned at the start of this thread.) Because i never seem to be on MDPC-X at the right time, what are my alternatives?

Also trying to decide is i want to fully sleeve my PSU. I know this will void the warranty, but is it worth the risk:/

It wasn't that expensive, but id rather not pay again if it did break down. What does evreyone think?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> Also trying to decide is i want to fully sleeve my PSU. I know this will void the warranty, but is it worth the risk:/


Don't let others decide that for you. We're not going to pay for your new PSU are we?









Did you consider to sleeve right up to the PSU and then use an oversized heatshrink for the last few inches of the whole cable bundle?


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Did you consider to sleeve right up to the PSU and then use an oversized heatshrink for the last few inches of the whole cable bundle?


If i was going to void it anyway i would probably just do it all single sleeved right down to the PSU. I'll do my fans, controller and internal connectors first, then see how i like it. If i feel it needs more i can do the PSU. Otherwise ill just end up buying pre sleeved extensions.

Still need to find and order heatshrink aswell:/


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> Need some advice, evreytime i go on MDPC-X to try and get heatshrink it is closed. I'm looking for all black 5/16 heatshrink with thin walls so that is will fit into connectors(like mentioned at the start of this thread.) Because i never seem to be on MDPC-X at the right time, what are my alternatives?
> Also trying to decide is i want to fully sleeve my PSU. I know this will void the warranty, but is it worth the risk:/
> It wasn't that expensive, but id rather not pay again if it did break down. What does evreyone think?


In my guides there is a link to some great heatshrink while its not mdpc it should get the job done. I would try my best to get it from mdpc however. Please check the link in my sig. -it will be on the third post in the faq-

Personally from seeing as much sleeving as I have seen in my lifetime, it is worth voiding your warranty, as it looks that much better. Any other method looks terrible. Although extensions are a good alternative.

But in the end it is up to you to take that jump. However if you take your time nothing will go wrong.


----------



## nzitser

any verdict on ftwpc?


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> In my guides there is a link to some great heatshrink while its not mdpc it should get the job done. I would try my best to get it from mdpc however. Please check the link in my sig. -it will be on the third post in the faq-
> Personally from seeing as much sleeving as I have seen in my lifetime, it is worth voiding your warranty, as it looks that much better. Any other method looks terrible. Although extensions are a good alternative.
> But in the end it is up to you to take that jump. However if you take your time nothing will go wrong.


Thanks for the help. Going to try and go on MDPC during the day when i am at college and not work.

Also think i will try and sleeve the PSU, i dont think it will feel done if i dont. Waiting on some blue led strips and my fan controller form RMA, then ill get started. I'll be sure to post how things go on this thread


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzitser*
> 
> any verdict on ftwpc?


I dont know about their new sleeving, but the last time I got ahold of their heatshrink, it was not really the best and I would stick to mdpc or the suggested.
I thought I heard they were changing that to but I don't know.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> Thanks for the help. Going to try and go on MDPC during the day when i am at college and not work.
> Also think i will try and sleeve the PSU, i dont think it will feel done if i dont. Waiting on some blue led strips and my fan controller form RMA, then ill get started. I'll be sure to post how things go on this thread


----------



## sjeffrey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> If i was going to void it anyway i would probably just do it all single sleeved right down to the PSU. I'll do my fans, controller and internal connectors first, then see how i like it. If i feel it needs more i can do the PSU. Otherwise ill just end up buying pre sleeved extensions.
> Still need to find and order heatshrink aswell:/


What if you get a modular PSU? Warranty wasn't a real concern for me but I would assume that if it's modular and you have issues with the PSU they would only ask that you send back the unit and not the cables.


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sjeffrey*
> 
> What if you get a modular PSU? Warranty wasn't a real concern for me but I would assume that if it's modular and you have issues with the PSU they would only ask that you send back the unit and not the cables.


i was thinking the same, but then i checked rma policy for psu's from ocz and corsair and they do require you to send the cables with the unit.


----------



## MijnWraak

Haven't been on recently, very saddening to see that Nils isn't doing well







. Anyone want to make some get well soon cards with me!?


----------



## B3anbag

[/quote]

What color is that? And, is that sleeving or paracord? I know...horrible thing to ask, but if you talked to my opthamologist, you'd understand









I saw some 550 Black Widow on one of the sites Lutro0 so kindly linked, liked it. First rig's gonne be basic red & black....kinda hard to do anything else with a CHV lol


----------



## bringtherain

just wanted to say that i asked XFX in regards to my black edition 850w and they said to go for it. Modular cables are A'OK and as long as I can get the main harnesses (24pin connectors and such) back to stock then i can go ahead and sleeve that too. gotta love xfx


----------



## audiofreak95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3anbag*


What color is that? And, is that sleeving or paracord? I know...horrible thing to ask, but if you talked to my opthamologist, you'd understand








I saw some 550 Black Widow on one of the sites Lutro0 so kindly linked, liked it. First rig's gonne be basic red & black....kinda hard to do anything else with a CHV lol
[/quote]

it is camo paracord from ftwpc linkey


----------



## DraXxus1549

Here is my first attempt at sleeving. I think I did pretty good







.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

That looks great. nice work


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MijnWraak*
> 
> Haven't been on recently, very saddening to see that Nils isn't doing well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Anyone want to make some get well soon cards with me!?


Same for me.... i was away for a while and i've first noticed Nils was seek around Christmas, thought it was nothing special (wrote him for best wishes and he came back),
but now i see he is closing shop by here and then which drove me to realize something was bad...so sad....and now i see the post on the shop clearly stating he is seek

I really hope it is nothing (didn't dare to ask) and he will recover asap.

Nils is really a sweet and talented person .... this really puts me down....so sad..... :-(


----------



## shnur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oc_geek*
> 
> Same for me.... i was away for a while and i've first noticed Nils was seek around Christmas, thought it was nothing special (wrote him for best wishes and he came back),
> but now i see he is closing shop by here and then which drove me to realize something was bad...so sad....and now i see the post on the shop clearly stating he is seek
> I really hope it is nothing (didn't dare to ask) and he will recover asap.
> Nils is really a sweet and talented person .... this really puts me down....so sad..... :-(


Don't worry  He's doing better now and just needs to take it slower; vacation is an important part of life and he didn't have any for a few years.


----------



## sub0

Hey guys I can't wait for Nils to get better I have been dying to get some cabling done, will be my first too.

I am hoping someone can help me with a color scheme, I have an ASUS Crosshair IV Formula and I cant tell from the pictures on MDPC if color Red or color X matches the red color on the MOBO better.

Thanks


----------



## Lutro0

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/37/1206117b.jpg

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/577/12021110.jpg

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/440/1206115.jpg

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/442/12041115.jpg

Try some of those on for size, but honestly any variant of those colors will blend well.


----------



## axipher

I love those first two


----------



## shnur

Here's an how it blends with a Rampage board (same colors as yours) the last 2 pics Lutro0 posted 

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/3686/20120201img2307.jpg


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shnur*
> 
> Don't worry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He's doing better now and just needs to take it slower; vacation is an important part of life and he didn't have any for a few years.


Thanks friend for the news. That is a relief...best


----------



## Shogon

So yea anybody know a tool that will work with Sea Sonic style pins, it seems like the tool I bought from FTWPC works on about 10% of all the pins, and the rest don't budge while others come out insanely easy. I've had all my sleeving stuff under my bed cause it was annoying to stare at it lol.


----------



## WiSK

The ones that come out easy come out easy because it's the right tool. The ones that don't budge usually means the "wings" have dug themselves into the connector. The tool can't close the wings anymore because they are stuck into the nylon of the connector housing. Try pushing the pins the opposite way to free the wings. Push and wriggle the wire to make sure the wings aren't stuck anymore. Then insert the tool fully before pulling on the wire.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> So yea anybody know a tool that will work with Sea Sonic style pins, it seems like the tool I bought from FTWPC works on about 10% of all the pins, and the rest don't budge while others come out insanely easy. I've had all my sleeving stuff under my bed cause it was annoying to stare at it lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> The ones that come out easy come out easy because it's the right tool. The ones that don't budge usually means the "wings" have dug themselves into the connector. The tool can't close the wings anymore because they are stuck into the nylon of the connector housing. Try pushing the pins the opposite way to free the wings. Push and wriggle the wire to make sure the wings aren't stuck anymore. Then insert the tool fully before pulling on the wire.


Also don't forget to first heat up the housing to make it expand.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Also don't forget to first heat up the housing to make it expand.


Think a hairdryer would do the trick?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> Think a hairdryer would do the trick?


That's what I use.


----------



## SmasherBasher

Sup cables?


----------



## audiofreak95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*
> 
> Sup cables?


----------



## SmasherBasher

Those are front panel switch cables for Case Labs cases. That's 90 of them.


----------



## GoodInk

Why in the world would you need 90 of them?


----------



## Ghooble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Why in the world would you need 90 of them?


BECAUSE WHY NOT?


----------



## SmasherBasher

Case labs puts them in their cases after i sleeve them. I make really long ones for the tx 10s as well.


----------



## Hartk1213

is it possible to sleeve a sata data cable with paracord??


----------



## SmasherBasher

Not at all. It's not even close. You need SATA sleeve.


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*
> 
> Not at all. It's not even close. You need SATA sleeve.


OK thanks

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk


----------



## Hartk1213

also what kind of heatshrink like size and what ratio like 4:1 or 3:1 should i get just for PSU cables and what kind for Sata Cables??


----------



## RushMore1205

hello everyone thought i would share my upcoming build, here is the start of it please check it out

Electric Seahorse Companion Cube

http://www.overclock.net/t/1191100/buildlog-electric-seahorse-companion-cube

.


----------



## Forsaken_id

You are using my favorite fans, PSU, and sleeving!


----------



## RushMore1205

Hello everyone, i need your help

im in desparate need of MDPC precut heat shrink, does anyone have any they could sell me, i will buy as much as you can sell me.

please PM me, my project is at a stand still because of this, and i have no idea whats wrong with Nils but i can never get into his store

can someone at least tell me if i understand this right, his store will be open tomorow at 3PM California Time?????????????????


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> Hello everyone, i need your help
> im in desparate need of MDPC precut heat shrink, does anyone have any they could sell me, i will buy as much as you can sell me.
> please PM me, my project is at a stand still because of this, and i have no idea whats wrong with Nils but i can never get into his store
> can someone at least tell me if i understand this right, his store will be open tomorow at 3PM California Time?????????????????


He's sick and needs to get better. His store is open I think it was 19:00 german time? I don't know. You'll need to check the site. Do some math and you'll find out.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> Hello everyone, i need your help
> im in desparate need of MDPC precut heat shrink, does anyone have any they could sell me, i will buy as much as you can sell me.
> please PM me, my project is at a stand still because of this, and i have no idea whats wrong with Nils but i can never get into his store
> can someone at least tell me if i understand this right, his store will be open tomorow at 3PM California Time?????????????????


I have been looking for like 4-6 pieces of red shrink for over a month. If you have a little red I can trade you for a little white. I have black too but its not pre-cut.


----------



## shnur

I have some red/black/white/green pre-cut. I don't have an issue selling some.

The store will open at midnight Germany time = 6PM EST or 3PM PST.


----------



## RushMore1205

it was jus open now its closed, he seriouslty only opened the store for 15 minutes????

man this is rediculous how are we suppose to proces the payment in time

Mod edit - Please no swearing.


----------



## Bigm

I had to order paracord what with FTWPC being all screwed up and MDPC being closed 23/7


----------



## TwentyCent

For your paracord needs : eBay


----------



## Forsaken_id

Got the 24 pin done:


----------



## Lutro0

I should add some as well.


----------



## SmasherBasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I should add some as well. *snip*


Looking perfect as always. Good to see you still around bro. Best of luck on the 25th.









It is the 25th you have surgery, correct?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmasherBasher*
> 
> Looking perfect as always. Good to see you still around bro. Best of luck on the 25th.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the 25th you have surgery, correct?


lol, 24th friday is when it is, I honestly cant wait to not be in pain all the time. I never thought I would look forward to surgery.


----------



## Forsaken_id

I always love seeing your pics, Lustro. I wish I could build from scratch, I have to teardown NZXT extentions and redo them for the time being.


----------



## Ghooble

Lutroo Why are all yours so perfect


----------



## diabloSUCKS

Sub'd LOVE this thread! So awesome.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id*
> 
> I always love seeing your pics, Lustro. I wish I could build from scratch, I have to teardown NZXT extentions and redo them for the time being.


I will be honest, if you really want to make your own and if you have the time and money, make your own wires. I measure mine like 5x times because even the smallest difference makes it look like crap. I have yet to see an OEM solution that measures their wires that carefully. Yea it takes more time, but the results speak for themselves.
If you ever want help with it just ask buddy!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghooble*
> 
> Lutroo Why are all yours so perfect


>.< They haven't always been like that ahah. When ever I look at the Katharos Mod I tend to shudder at the sleeving. I think one day I might have to do a rebuild of it.
But I never consider my work perfect, it has its flaws as with anything. I just take my time and if it doesn't look right I redo it until It is right. Which sometimes means alot.... haha


----------



## Hartk1213

does anyone know where i could buy paracord like this i really like the look of it besides the *King Star Trading* i cant seem to find thier website if they have one


----------



## liquidzoo

I think that's called "Black Widow". I know they have it here: http://www.survival-pax.com/EL-Wood-550-Paracord.html

Definitely recommend that supplier. Very fast, very competitive. I recently purchased 200' from them, and I will likely be putting in an order for more here in the near future.


----------



## Hartk1213

i have another question what size heatshrink do i need to sleeve a Seasonic X650 is it 1/4'' or 1/8'' ?? or are both of those wrong??


----------



## Furion92

Hey guys,
I basically just registered to this forum, so I first want to shout out a little *hello* out to you









After several "google-nights" I've decided that I would want to go for a heatshrink-free paracord sleeved PSU.
This very forum was the place where I found most of the information that led me to that decision. So I've read a lot in the sleeving threads and fell more and more in love with Lutro0's paracord work.
Paracord sleeving just isn't that popular (yet) in Germany, where I'm from.

I'm now about to buy a new PSU that I'm going to fully sleeve with white paracord and without heatshrinks (as far as that's possible).

My first choice was the Corsair AX650W/750W, mainly because it's highly praised by lots of review sites out there. That was before I found out that there are several double-wired pins which are a real PITA to remove/sleeve (especially without heatshring, I think it's impossible).
.
So I began searching for a *silent* PSU with *1to1-connectors*, preferably *black/grey/white* because I'm going with a black and white colour scheme.

The models that I've found so far are:
- Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid series
- Enermax Platimax 1200W upwards
- almost whole Silverstone Strider series

The thing is though, all I really need is a ~600W power supply. The Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid is uberly overpriced and the weakest model delivers 850W. Enermax Platimax isn't fully modular before you choose the 1200W or 1500W model, which are even more expensive and way overpowered.
And those Strider models are everything apart from silent, they have a big fat capacitor on the pci-e cables and on top of that, some really ugly blue connectors.

Would I be better off buying the PSU that's best for my needs and then sleeving some extension cables?
Have you found the "perfect" PSU for sleeving (especially heatshrink-free)?

I would be glad about any kind of recommendation


----------



## TwentyCent

Erst, willkommen bei uns!

Second, I also wanna know


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I basically just registered to this forum, so I first want to shout out a little *hello* out to you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After several "google-nights" I've decided that I would want to go for a heatshrink-free paracord sleeved PSU.
> This very forum was the place where I found most of the information that led me to that decision. So I've read a lot in the sleeving threads and fell more and more in love with Lutro0's paracord work.
> Paracord sleeving just isn't that popular (yet) in Germany, where I'm from.
> I'm now about to buy a new PSU that I'm going to fully sleeve with white paracord and without heatshrinks (as far as that's possible).
> My first choice was the Corsair AX650W/750W, mainly because it's highly praised by lots of review sites out there. That was before I found out that there are several double-wired pins which are a real PITA to remove/sleeve (especially without heatshring, I think it's impossible).
> .
> So I began searching for a *silent* PSU with *1to1-connectors*, preferably *black/grey/white* because I'm going with a black and white colour scheme.
> The models that I've found so far are:
> - Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid series
> - Enermax Platimax 1200W upwards
> - almost whole Silverstone Strider series
> The thing is though, all I really need is a ~600W power supply. The Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid is uberly overpriced and the weakest model delivers 850W. Enermax Platimax isn't fully modular before you choose the 1200W or 1500W model, which are even more expensive and way overpowered.
> And those Strider models are everything apart from silent, they have a big fat capacitor on the pci-e cables and on top of that, some really ugly blue connectors.
> Would I be better off buying the PSU that's best for my needs and then sleeving some extension cables?
> Have you found the "perfect" PSU for sleeving (especially heatshrink-free)?
> I would be glad about any kind of recommendation


From my experience, I would stick with the striders, there is a variety of different wattage ranges. Just make sure the pcie cables dont have the capacitors on them. (not the ferrite beads, just the caps)

Thanks for the comment on my work as well.


----------



## Furion92

@TwentyCent: Danke









@Lutro0: As far as I can tell, those capacitors are on the Strider Gold Evolution, the Strider Gold and even the Strider Plus product lines. The Strider Essentials aren't fully modular so the only one left on Silverstone's product list is the original Strider which comes in a 600W and a 1200W version (80+ Bronze and 80+ Certifications).

Well if that's the only choice I've got, then I'm gonna buy an AX650, tuck the original cables away and sleeve some extensions... or I even end up sleeving those modular cables, which haven't got the double-pin-thing and extending the rest.

Somebody should really have a serious conversation with PSU manufacturers. I don't think they are aware of the small group struggling to sleeve their power supplies because of those extra "features" such as ferrite rings or capacitors or 28pin ATX connectors...









Or are there alternatives out there? Let me know if there's a modder-friendly PSU.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I basically just registered to this forum, so I first want to shout out a little *hello* out to you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After several "google-nights" I've decided that I would want to go for a heatshrink-free paracord sleeved PSU.
> This very forum was the place where I found most of the information that led me to that decision. So I've read a lot in the sleeving threads and fell more and more in love with Lutro0's paracord work.
> Paracord sleeving just isn't that popular (yet) in Germany, where I'm from.
> I'm now about to buy a new PSU that I'm going to fully sleeve with white paracord and without heatshrinks (as far as that's possible).
> My first choice was the Corsair AX650W/750W, mainly because it's highly praised by lots of review sites out there. That was before I found out that there are several double-wired pins which are a real PITA to remove/sleeve (especially without heatshring, I think it's impossible).
> .
> So I began searching for a *silent* PSU with *1to1-connectors*, preferably *black/grey/white* because I'm going with a black and white colour scheme.
> The models that I've found so far are:
> - Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid series
> - Enermax Platimax 1200W upwards
> - almost whole Silverstone Strider series
> The thing is though, all I really need is a ~600W power supply. The Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid is uberly overpriced and the weakest model delivers 850W. Enermax Platimax isn't fully modular before you choose the 1200W or 1500W model, which are even more expensive and way overpowered.
> And those Strider models are everything apart from silent, they have a big fat capacitor on the pci-e cables and on top of that, some really ugly blue connectors.
> Would I be better off buying the PSU that's best for my needs and then sleeving some extension cables?
> Have you found the "perfect" PSU for sleeving (especially heatshrink-free)?
> I would be glad about any kind of recommendation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From my experience, I would stick with the striders, there is a variety of different wattage ranges. Just make sure the pcie cables dont have the capacitors on them. (not the ferrite beads, just the caps)
> 
> Thanks for the comment on my work as well.
Click to expand...

I can't find any that are over 750watts without them, any others?

Edit: I got


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> @TwentyCent: Danke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Lutro0: As far as I can tell, those capacitors are on the Strider Gold Evolution, the Strider Gold and even the Strider Plus product lines. The Strider Essentials aren't fully modular so the only one left on Silverstone's product list is the original Strider which comes in a 600W and a 1200W version (80+ Bronze and 80+ Certifications).
> Well if that's the only choice I've got, then I'm gonna buy an AX650, tuck the original cables away and sleeve some extensions... or I even end up sleeving those modular cables, which haven't got the double-pin-thing and extending the rest.
> Somebody should really have a serious conversation with PSU manufacturers. I don't think they are aware of the small group struggling to sleeve their power supplies because of those extra "features" such as ferrite rings or capacitors or 28pin ATX connectors...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or are there alternatives out there? Let me know if there's a modder-friendly PSU.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I can't find any that are over 750watts without them, any others?
> Edit: I got


What I do to find out, is I look them up and then try to find a review on them. Either in the pics or in the review see if they have caps.

the last one I just worked on that did not have the caps was a 1200w Strider. Here is the link.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NPEBCO/ref=oh_o06_s00_i01_details

You may choose a different one, but nothing can compare to the look of a 1-1 cables powersupply. Sadly there just is not enough of them out there. I am sure they keep cost down by doubling and what not, but sadly it does not help with modding. Extensions are a great way to go and its one of the main reason I make and sell them, as even if you get lets say an super awesome corsair ax850 the sleeving will look like crud because of the wiring. So you have to use extensions or sit down and make your own cables but even then you can only do so much.

I stand by the striders as they are the only ones with the needed pin out, sadly they have started using caps more and more and its hard to find one without it. Most of the time its an older model, but again hard to find. Some just say to take them off, but from the few PSU gurus that I trust on OCN the answer is DO NOT REMOVE. Which sadly leaves you a few options all that are labor intensive.

One you move the cap to another hidden location (behind the case)
Two Perhaps move the cap to the inside of the psu (this will have to be verified by the psu gurus?)
Three take your chances and remove them, I have heard numerous people say its fine and they haven't had an issue, but I personally just find one without them. Sadly I dont have a list as I choose not to do them too often.

I hope some of that helps.


----------



## liquidzoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hartk1213*
> 
> i have another question what size heatshrink do i need to sleeve a Seasonic X650 is it 1/4'' or 1/8'' ?? or are both of those wrong??


I'm using http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70133170 based off of a recommendation I saw in a YouTube video.

(come to think of it, it might have been Lutro0's video







)


----------



## TwentyCent

You have me lost here...what are those caps you are talking about? All I can understand is that they interfere with sleeving


----------



## RushMore1205

thats why you should get the SilverStone psu, they are 100% modular, even the 24 pin, and does not have any of the doubl pinned wires, you know how most of them have 1 tiny wire and one regualr going onto one pin,

thats a negative on Silverstone psu, which make them gold in my book, plus their pins are so easy to take out,
XFX PSU also very easy to take out the pins,

Corsair is really hard when compared to those 2 brands


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> thats why you should get the SilverStone psu, they are 100% modular, even the 24 pin, and does not have any of the doubl pinned wires, you know how most of them have 1 tiny wire and one regualr going onto one pin,
> thats a negative on Silverstone psu, which make them gold in my book, plus their pins are so easy to take out,
> XFX PSU also very easy to take out the pins,
> Corsair is really hard when compared to those 2 brands


+1! I have done 3 Corsairs in the last 4 months and the pins are TOUGH! I just did a buddy's Silverstone and it was much easier (still hate sleeving though.)


----------



## KrArt

Hey, guys. I have a question. MDPC titanium gray are more black than grey isnt it?


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KrArt*
> 
> Hey, guys. I have a question. MDPC titanium gray are more black than grey isnt it?


no its just dark grey, like asphalt, its beautiful, i personally like the other lighter grey one, but if you have the black case and you don't want to go black i think the dark grey looks great


----------



## KrArt

Thanks. It's exactly what i was looking for. True black are too black imo







. Titanium grey + color-x this is gonna be awesome


----------



## Furion92

@ScribbyDaGreat: How did you sleeve the Corsair ones? With or without heatshrink? What did you do with thouse double pinned wires? Have you got some pictures?

Has anyone ever fully sleeved a Cooler Master PSU? They seem to have 1-to-1 pinning and the Silent Pro Hybrid model is fully modular, too.

@Lutro0: The Silverstone original Strider series would be best for sleeving it. However, it's 6 years old now and you can't find 'em in the shops anymore. If I would find one, I'm not even sure whether I'd take a power supply with only bronze or 80+ certification. The reviews said that it's a very loud one, too.








The only new models that should be good for sleeving are the *Enermax Platimax 1200W, 1500W and the Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid 850W, 1050W and 1300W.*

I'd be very interested in pictures of sleeved Corsair PSUs, especially partly heatshring-free ones


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> @ScribbyDaGreat: How did you sleeve the Corsair ones? With or without heatshrink? What did you do with thouse double pinned wires? Have you got some pictures?
> Has anyone ever fully sleeved a Cooler Master PSU? They seem to have 1-to-1 pinning and the Silent Pro Hybrid model is fully modular, too.
> @Lutro0: The Silverstone original Strider series would be best for sleeving it. However, it's 6 years old now and you can't find 'em in the shops anymore. If I would find one, I'm not even sure whether I'd take a power supply with only bronze or 80+ certification. The reviews said that it's a very loud one, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only new models that should be good for sleeving are the *Enermax Platimax 1200W, 1500W and the Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid 850W, 1050W and 1300W.*
> I'd be very interested in pictures of sleeved Corsair PSUs, especially partly heatshring-free ones


Sadly I have to agree about the silverstone , however a quick word for others reading.

The CM psu has ribboned cables so you will have to peel them apart, that being said I might be willing to pick up the 850w version and make a guide out of it if anyone would want one. I have no idea if the pinout is 1-1 it looks to be, but I wont know untill its in my hand or some more looking. That is granted I do some more research, right now I am getting ready for my surgery.

And enermax ohhh enermax, I personally find them oooglay, but most importantly the use their own proprietary pins that are a HUGE pain to remove, even with the original molex tool. You will have to literally yank the pins out as hard as you can. And enermax psus are the only ones to give such joy. *But more importantly the pin out is the biggest bunch of weird garbage I have ever seeen in my life, these will not turn out nice no matter what, so these are a no go. They use a 20pin and another connector to make up the 24pin and sometimes the 8pin is added into that.*

That all being said I do plan on making a list of PSUs that will be useful for sleeving, and personally calling some PSU makers for helpful hints on getting around somethings.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> @ScribbyDaGreat: How did you sleeve the Corsair ones? With or without heatshrink? What did you do with thouse double pinned wires? Have you got some pictures?
> Has anyone ever fully sleeved a Cooler Master PSU? They seem to have 1-to-1 pinning and the Silent Pro Hybrid model is fully modular, too.
> @Lutro0: The Silverstone original Strider series would be best for sleeving it. However, it's 6 years old now and you can't find 'em in the shops anymore. If I would find one, I'm not even sure whether I'd take a power supply with only bronze or 80+ certification. The reviews said that it's a very loud one, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only new models that should be good for sleeving are the *Enermax Platimax 1200W, 1500W and the Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid 850W, 1050W and 1300W.*
> I'd be very interested in pictures of sleeved Corsair PSUs, especially partly heatshring-free ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly I have to agree about the silverstone , however a quick word for others reading.
> 
> The CM psu has ribboned cables so you will have to peel them apart, that being said I might be willing to pick up the 850w version and make a guide out of it if anyone would want one. I have no idea if the pinout is 1-1 it looks to be, but I wont know untill its in my hand or some more looking. That is granted I do some more research, right now I am getting ready for my surgery.
> 
> And enermax ohhh enermax, I personally find them oooglay, but most importantly the use their own proprietary pins that are a HUGE pain to remove, even with the original molex tool. You will have to literally yank the pins out as hard as you can. And enermax psus are the only ones to give such joy. *But more importantly the pin out is the biggest bunch of weird garbage I have ever seeen in my life, these will not turn out nice no matter what, so these are a no go. They use a 20pin and another connector to make up the 24pin and sometimes the 8pin is added into that.*
> 
> That all being said I do plan on making a list of PSUs that will be useful for sleeving, and personally calling some PSU makers for helpful hints on getting around somethings.
Click to expand...

I love my CM 850 W for it's ribbon cables as they look much better then most PSU's without sleeving, but I would hate to try and sleeve it. That's why I just did extensions instead, the ribbon cables are very easy to hide since you can pretty much fold them on top of each other.

Pulling apart those cables would definitely be required for the peripheral cables, the ribbon cables are also a little thinner than normal, feels like their one size smaller with slightly less insulation so regular sleeving might not even look the best on them, it might bunch up in areas, I'm not sure how well sleeving works on smaller gauge wires.

Here's a picture for reference for anyone who hasn't seen the connectors:



The ribbon cables are all 1 to 1, both of the 4+4 pin CPU are 1 to 1, and I believe the 24-pin is also 1 to 1, I can check tonight if anyone needs verification. The outlet of the PSU where the 24-pin and the two 4+4-pin is very small though, I have doubts that you would be able to fit sleeving on all the cables. You might have to disconnect one of the 4+4-pin connectors since you probably done need two 8-pin connectors for your board.


----------



## Furion92

@Lutro0 and axipher: So what you guys tell me is: theres not a single available PSU on the market (apart from the very old Strider one) that's perfect for single-sleeving? Oh crap.

I don't know what's been going on with me as I sad that the Enermax Platimax would be 1-to-1 pinned  ... Thanks Lutro0 for clarifying that









click! now that's the only one. And I don't like it at all.

Luckily my CM Storm Sniper has a huge amount of space behind the motherboard tray, so I can hide all those original cables and extensions.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> @Lutro0 and axipher: So what you guys tell me is: theres not a single available PSU on the market (apart from the very old Strider one) that's perfect for single-sleeving? Oh crap.
> 
> I don't know what's been going on with me as I sad that the Enermax Platimax would be 1-to-1 pinned  ... Thanks Lutro0 for clarifying that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> click! now that's the only one. And I don't like it at all.
> 
> Luckily my CM Storm Sniper has a huge amount of space behind the motherboard tray, so I can hide all those original cables and extensions.


Well I'm sure there must be a PSU out there.

Also and fully modular PSU would be great for sleeving.

If I was to buy another PSU, I would look for a fully modular, and replace all the wires with custom length wires and sleeving, then I can guarantee 1 to 1 pin-out and custom fitted cables with no excess cable to worry about hiding.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> @Lutro0 and axipher: So what you guys tell me is: theres not a single available PSU on the market (apart from the very old Strider one) that's perfect for single-sleeving? Oh crap.
> I don't know what's been going on with me as I sad that the Enermax Platimax would be 1-to-1 pinned  ... Thanks Lutro0 for clarifying that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> click! now that's the only one. And I don't like it at all.
> Luckily my CM Storm Sniper has a huge amount of space behind the motherboard tray, so I can hide all those original cables and extensions.


Please dont get me wrong, you can surely do any of them. But they wont look clean like the extensions I display, as that can only be obtained by custom wireing and and 1-1 pinout. You can make it look pretty clean if you take your time, but it depends on how much of a perfectionist you are.


----------



## Furion92

So if there were 28 pins on the psu for the ATX cable (like the Corsair one have) , can I custom make my own cable that only uses 24 of those? Has anyone ever tried that before?
And yes, I'm a huge perfectionist


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> So if there were 28 pins on the psu for the ATX cable (like the Corsair one have) , can I custom make my own cable that only uses 24 of those? Has anyone ever tried that before?
> And yes, I'm a huge perfectionist


This...i need to know also i have a Seasonic X650 and i hate the double pins or whatever they are called


----------



## Furion92

I just found out that the AX1200 has got a different pinout than the AX650/750/850. There are 24 pins for the ATX connector (seperated to 2 connectors on the psu) and all the 8pins or 6+2pins have the right amount of pins on the psu side. Too bad it could power my rig 3 times.

Additionaly, I posted in the corsair forums and asked for advice rearding the custom cabling. When I've got some responses, I'm gonna update my post.


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Hey guys, quick question for ya.

I'm about to get into sleeving. Over my spring break I'll be taking my PSU complete out of my case and cutting cables I don't need since its not a modular PSU, trust me I'll be fine with that. For sleeving, do you guys get more of the MOLEX pin connectors just incase you break one? I've struggled to get the pins removed with staples on the 6pin 12v connector and I'm just wondering what luck everyone has with them...

Any tips for crimping the wires down on the pins? That seems to be my biggest hic-up, I'll get it done, put it back in the connector, then I can easily pull out the wire from the pin, fail.


----------



## Maximus4

Here is some of my work


----------



## evolutionxxx86

I should have done this to my psu wires. nice work all


----------



## Furion92

Nice case, nice board and nice sleeving









But what the heck were you thinking fitting that fan on the cpu cooler?


----------



## Ghooble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus4*
> 
> Here is some of my work


Not to be that guy but is your HSF set to push or pull? Because if it's push I think it should be on the other side.

EDIT!: I'm a tard. Nice cables


----------



## longroadtrip

He has it set up push/pull


----------



## Ghooble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> He has it set up push/pull


OH WOW!







I was leaned so far back in my chair that I didn't even see the black fan.


----------



## RushMore1205

Hello everyone, im finaly back in town, and im doing some more stuff to get ready for my main cables of the PSU, so the cables are way to long in order for the build to look flawless.

this is showing a way how i shorten cables, i think this is the most safe way to shorten cables to make sure that your psu turns on after









so

so first figure out what you want to cut, i decided to start with the 24 pin.










i think the most important thing is to lable the cables in the easiest way you can underst it later. i went to home depot and bought these lables which are life savers.










not only do you want to lable the cables you also want to draw a diagram just to help you with the numbering system you have going on. this is how i did it










so this is how much i measured that i need cut ot make it look really clean.










so this is what the final product will look like, make sure you put the lables an inch or so away from your cut, that way when you put the new pins on you have some room to work with.










So i just wanted to take some pictures of the work place that this build is happening. i have always dreamed to have a garage that i can work in, and i finaly bought a house and all the lab tables, so this is the first build that im working out of my garage

i have one lab tables that i use for my fabriaction, which is the first picture.
the second picture is where i do all my testing for working or future builds, also my folding and my little filer server is right there.


















i hope this helped someone, if you wish to see more please check out the build log called Electric Seahorse Compaion Cube, under the WC section.


----------



## Maximus4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> Nice case, nice board and nice sleeving
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But what the heck were you thinking fitting that fan on the cpu cooler?


Thx! LoL it was a fan I had laying around from my previous case + it was the fastest one around here so I used it to see if I could have even better temps


----------



## Maximus4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghooble*
> 
> Not to be that guy but is your HSF set to push or pull? Because if it's push I think it should be on the other side.
> EDIT!: I'm a tard. Nice cables


Thx man


----------



## Furion92

@Maxiumus4: I've got to admit, that I haven't seen the black fan on the cpu cooler, so it just looked even a bit more odd to me.

To keep you all updated regarding the custom cabling question for the Seasonic manufactured power supplies, I havn't got an answer yet. Neither from Corsair, nor from Seasonic.


----------



## Lidrager

For those who still looking for smaller paracord than 550 or 450, I got the name: ALSE Survival vest cord Type I paracord (it is good to sleeve your fan and pump)
link: (same guy who sells it but you can choose which one is cheaper)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALSE-Survival-vest-cord-Type-paracord-50ft-/330686404272?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item7dbdcdfd6a

http://www.supplycaptain.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=74


----------



## Hartk1213

ok i havent got any replies on the thread i made so ill ask it here
i want to start sleeving my Seasonic X-650 with para cord soon and i want the heatshrink less look but i dont think its possible with the whole double pins on the 24 pin MOBO power connector so i had an idea i want to know if it will work so thats why im asking u guys
instead of having the two wires go together into the connector can i just cut them and solder them together in the middle and cover those in heat shrink since they will be behind the mobo and have a single wire go into the 24 pin connector or would that not work...i dont see why it wouldnt work and i think it would look alot nicer in the end so ya please let me know
i made a crude drawing of what i mean


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hartk1213*
> 
> ok i havent got any replies on the thread i made so ill ask it here
> i want to start sleeving my Seasonic X-650 with para cord soon and i want the heatshrink less look but i dont think its possible with the whole double pins on the 24 pin MOBO power connector so i had an idea i want to know if it will work so thats why im asking u guys
> instead of having the two wires go together into the connector can i just cut them and solder them together in the middle and cover those in heat shrink since they will be behind the mobo and have a single wire go into the 24 pin connector or would that not work...i dont see why it wouldnt work and i think it would look alot nicer in the end so ya please let me know
> i made a crude drawing of what i mean


That is exactly the way I have always done it. If you find ontics guide he made some nice pics that will explain it


----------



## liquidzoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hartk1213*
> 
> ok i havent got any replies on the thread i made so ill ask it here
> i want to start sleeving my Seasonic X-650 with para cord soon and i want the heatshrink less look but i dont think its possible with the whole double pins on the 24 pin MOBO power connector so i had an idea i want to know if it will work so thats why im asking u guys
> instead of having the two wires go together into the connector can i just cut them and solder them together in the middle and cover those in heat shrink since they will be behind the mobo and have a single wire go into the 24 pin connector or would that not work...i dont see why it wouldnt work and i think it would look alot nicer in the end so ya please let me know
> i made a crude drawing of what i mean


I make no claims in being knowledgeable in this, but I believe you can.

Another option would be to make an extension. Doesn't have to be a long one, just to avoid the issue entirely.


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> That is exactly the way I have always done it. If you find ontics guide he made some nice pics that will explain it


thanks Lutro0...hope all is well and hope u have a speedy recovery


----------



## KoSoVaR^

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hartk1213*
> 
> ok i havent got any replies on the thread i made so ill ask it here
> i want to start sleeving my Seasonic X-650 with para cord soon and i want the heatshrink less look but i dont think its possible with the whole double pins on the 24 pin MOBO power connector so i had an idea i want to know if it will work so thats why im asking u guys
> instead of having the two wires go together into the connector can i just cut them and solder them together in the middle and cover those in heat shrink since they will be behind the mobo and have a single wire go into the 24 pin connector or would that not work...i dont see why it wouldnt work and i think it would look alot nicer in the end so ya please let me know
> i made a crude drawing of what i mean


This is the only way doing it







, would it have been a non modular PSU then i would solder the two wires inside the PSU instead








I have done it on 7 Fractal Design PSU:s and they have a lot of these damn doubble-wires , couldnt my custumers have chosen any other PSus haha


----------



## adi518

Damn it, I need a new project and this time sleeve stuff myself









Once you go MdPc you don't go back


----------



## liquidzoo

I had a tip that I thought I would share.

My wife really likes to sew, to the point that I built her a sewing table. She has all sorts of sewing "accessories", and I found a few that really helped me cut heatshrink nice and straight and the same size every time.

I don't have images of the process, but I can outline it for you.

I laid the heatshrink on her cutting mat:


(this isn't the one she owns, but it's a suitable replacement if all you're going to do is cut heatshrink and non-paracord sleeving, though it might work for paracord too)

Making sure to line up the end of the heatshrink on one of the lines that are present.

Next I laid one of her fabric rulers over the top, again lining it up.



The fabric ruler that I used was small (both like the one pictured, and the one linked to), and had markings every 1/8", which was handy. I put the line I wanted to cut to on the same line that my heatshrink was aligned to.

Next I took her rotary cutter and just ran it along the edge of the ruler.



Straight cut every time.

(images are Amazon links to said items)

Maybe this method isn't for everyone, and it's a lot to spend just for this purpose; but if you have a wife/girlfriend (or yourself) who likes to sew and has these items, I highly recommend it.

Though if you are borrowing someone else's items like this, do them a favor and go to your local fabric/craft supply shop (Michael's, Joann's, etc) and pick up some spare blades for the rotary cutter. No sense possibly dulling their blades. And be careful...these things are SHARP. My wife dropped her rotary cutter (with a blade she said was dull) on her foot and sliced it wide open...nearly to the bone...from a drop of maybe 3 feet.


----------



## Forsaken_id

^^Good tips, Liquidzoo.


----------



## Furion92

Can someone of you tell me the diameter of paracord please? I've found a webstore that sells similar cord stuff with different diameters basically from 1 to 18mm. I thought that maybe 2 or 3mm would be the right size?

Another question: what's brighter -> white paracord or white mdpc sleeve?


----------



## liquidzoo

Paracord (450 and 550) is about 1/8" diameter. That translates to 3.175 mm.

I can't answer your second question, though. I've only dealt with Paracord, and never used white.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> Can someone of you tell me the diameter of paracord please? I've found a webstore that sells similar cord stuff with different diameters basically from 1 to 18mm. I thought that maybe 2 or 3mm would be the right size?
> Another question: what's brighter -> white paracord or white mdpc sleeve?


Depends on what you want. The mdpc will have some shine to it, while the paracord will have a matte finish. Also, the paracord will cover 100%, while the mdpc, while very good, will have some minor bleed through of color from the wire.


----------



## Hartk1213

can some one tell me how well this tool kit works it the Lamptron Case Modding tool kit


----------



## longroadtrip

I find them to be really fragile...they have a tendency to break or bend after just a few pins. I use the original molex tool and it works great


----------



## Hartk1213

ok cool so what about these two?


----------



## RushMore1205

I have tried many different tools and there is nothing better then mdpc. It looks like ftwpc sells the same one. Dont waste time or money on anything else because you will just be disappointed


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hartk1213*
> 
> thanks Lutro0...hope all is well and hope u have a speedy recovery


Thanks buddy!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Damn it, I need a new project and this time sleeve stuff myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you go MdPc you don't go back


Yup, and the reason is that that's all Nils does is sleeving, so his products and specialized in that field.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquidzoo*
> 
> I had a tip that I thought I would share.
> My wife really likes to sew, to the point that I built her a sewing table. She has all sorts of sewing "accessories", and I found a few that really helped me cut heatshrink nice and straight and the same size every time.
> I don't have images of the process, but I can outline it for you.
> I laid the heatshrink on her cutting mat:
> -snip-
> Maybe this method isn't for everyone, and it's a lot to spend just for this purpose; but if you have a wife/girlfriend (or yourself) who likes to sew and has these items, I highly recommend it.
> Though if you are borrowing someone else's items like this, do them a favor and go to your local fabric/craft supply shop (Michael's, Joann's, etc) and pick up some spare blades for the rotary cutter. No sense possibly dulling their blades. And be careful...these things are SHARP. My wife dropped her rotary cutter (with a blade she said was dull) on her foot and sliced it wide open...nearly to the bone...from a drop of maybe 3 feet.


You can find some self healing ones on amazon as wel that work awesome with an exacto knife, but I like the roller option.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> Can someone of you tell me the diameter of paracord please? I've found a webstore that sells similar cord stuff with different diameters basically from 1 to 18mm. I thought that maybe 2 or 3mm would be the right size?
> Another question: what's brighter -> white paracord or white mdpc sleeve?


While the U.S. military has no overall diameter requirements in its specifications, in the field 550 cord typically measures 5/32" (4mm) in diameter.
But here is the deal, sometimes the 450 is the same diameter or its a little smaller, and vice versa. it all depends on who makes it, which is hard to determind as the difference between 450 and 550 is the ammount of cords on the inside. Although most of the time its doesnt make a difference, but if you use heatshrink you will want to find the smaller diameter cord. Most of the time if you ask your seller they should know. DO NOT listen to those who say its all the same as that is NOT true.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hartk1213*
> 
> can some one tell me how well -snip-


Not worth it, Use the orginal Molex tool. The 4pin Molex tool may work just fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hartk1213*
> 
> ok cool so what about these two?
> -snip-


Also not worth it, I have tried just about every single ones of these or have had people give me the results from numerous people thinking its a better deal to get ones of these cheap multi tool kits and then ending up hurting their fingers ripping cables out mangling their fingers and the molex plug and NOTHING works better then the original molex tool and any of the 4 pin molex pin removers.

The reason the atx clips from the small pins makes such a difference is all psu makers use their own pins or source them from someone other then molex to save money or such, so you need a sturdy tool that will take a little pushing, But you dont need to push too hard, and most of those cruddy tools are not deep enough or too deep so people crush them inside it. Ontop of that some of the non OEM pins that they use dig into the plastic so you need to push the cable forward first then insert the tool and then pull it out, sometimes with alot of force. So a good deal of it is method and having the right tool.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hartk1213*
> 
> ok cool so what about these two?


Unless you are doing the actual big 4 pin molex, you won't need the 1st one. As for the second one, I go back to my first statement, you will be much happier with the original molex pin remover. Seems to me that if you wanted to buy a pin removal tool, you would buy the one from the people who make the pins and the housings.


----------



## Hartk1213

OK sounds good I guess if I want it done right ill have to buy the better tools so ill get the one u said and ya I'm gonna need the 1st one since I have some Molex I need to sleeve so ill buy both and thank you

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hartk1213*
> 
> OK sounds good I guess if I want it done right ill have to buy the better tools so ill get the one u said and ya I'm gonna need the 1st one since I have some Molex I need to sleeve so ill buy both and thank you
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk


Hey check my work log bellow and you will see with you won eyes what tools i used and Lutro0 , RushMore and other members used to do a very neat work with the right tools









First Link the rest will be easy to find







and good luck with your sleeving.

Edited : I Forgot one thing, Everything is from MDPC you will see.


----------



## Hartk1213

ok i think im gonna get the tool from FTW PC i hate using staples









anyway...i just had an awesome idea i thought i would share with the sleeving/moddiing community on here its for sleeving paracord with out the need to tape off the end to not get any tangles
i was just thinking what i could use that would be faster and i was looking at all of the tools i have and i saw this its from my dremel kit and its one of the "collets" if im not mistaken...i saw it and i thought that it would make a great no-tangle tool for sleeving paracord so i tried it and whaddaya know it worked perfectly here is a lil tutorial on what i did to make it work

here are the "collets" im sorry if thats not the right name

here is a wire half way into the collet

All the way into the collet

starting to sleeve the cable dont mind the really crappy paracord its just for practice so i dont mess up and use my good paracord









heat shrinkless sleeved wire

all done!

sorry for the pics it was my Galaxy S in macro mode
hope this little tutorial helps anyone cause it really helped me...i really didnt want to have to tape up the connector for the every wire so ya enjoy

P.S. any questions please dont hesitate to ask


----------



## ProjectPwnage

I got a question for the MDPC sleeve users.

From the time you placed your order, how long did it take to arrive?
I live on the Eastern coast of the US.
How long would it take to arrive?

Thanks.
=)


----------



## longroadtrip

All of the orders I've placed with Nils arrived in about 2 weeks. I'm in Denver...


----------



## ProjectPwnage

Thanks. That's good to hear.
And do you know if the tools he sells are good?
Or should I get them from another brand?


----------



## TwentyCent

Word on this is that you can't beat his tool (original molex one). None of them out there works as well and/or for as long. I have no experience, but this is what I've read over and over here.


----------



## longroadtrip

For me, I like them better. I've had 3-4 different tools and only 1 from Nils...The crimper is excellent as well. A bit spendy compared to others out there, but I've had zero trouble with mine. The one thing about MDPC is that you can never go wrong with anything Nils sells. It is all absolutely top quality.


----------



## golfergolfer

I was just wondering if anyone has had any experience, knowledge, or anything really about these cables... If you have any ideas or any suggestions against this please tell me! Thanks


----------



## subnet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> I was just wondering if anyone has had any experience, knowledge, or anything really about these cables... If you have any ideas or any suggestions against this please tell me! Thanks


I have no personal experience with them, but here was the sample rig from the Fractal case thread:



Looks good from, can't find any better photos though (note the Seasonic X series cables are very similar to the AX650/750/850).


----------



## adi518

hehe, that's a bit surprising









You can look for better pics in my album.

http://asdesign.co.il/stuff/r3/define_r3_rig_2012.jpg

Those cables are awesome, I believe as someone also mentioned to me here, that it's made of the same stuff mdpc use. It's not paracord.

You should know though, that Corsair now supply sleeved cables kit for their AX Pro series.

http://www.corsair.com/power-supply-units/psu-accessories.html

Buying the kit might turn cheaper than buying single cables from Moddiy in this case.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> hehe, that's a bit surprising
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can look for better pics in my album.
> http://asdesign.co.il/stuff/r3/define_r3_rig_2012.jpg
> Those cables are awesome, I believe as someone also mentioned to me here, that it's made of the same stuff mdpc use. It's not paracord.
> You should know though, that Corsair now supply sleeved cables kit for their AX Pro series.
> http://www.corsair.com/power-supply-units/psu-accessories.html
> Buying the kit might turn cheaper than buying single cables from Moddiy in this case.


Ive been keeping track of those, as sleeving tends to be my thing lol.

From what I have seen and also been shown preproduction, is that the hs is a little off, and that you can see the wire from the outside, like for example look at the white extensions and you can see the writing.

And dont get me wrong I love Corsair, but they are making a single length non custom solution, which means it still has its bad pinout and double wires(from what ive seen) and it will still look like a bundled mess in the end. What I mean about the pinout is that its the difference between a jumble of wires and a clean 1-1 wires in a row the entire way.

I don't say all of that to be a doomsayer, as its great to see a company try to put their foot into this realm.

I am thinking of doing a full review once a can get my hands on some, but until then I will have to say that they are good for someone who wants a cheap sleeving job, but it will never compare to a custom job.

I hope to slowly gather every example of sleeved extensions out there and do a video review of them all, to keep everyone informed on what exactly they are buying. But that will have to wait untill I get some projects I am working on right now.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

My two cents on the pin removal - I discovered that for me it was MUCH easier to insert the tool into one side at a time when trying to remove a pin. This happened one day when I was trying to finalize my sleeving on Tiamat and I broke not one, but two tools! So I only had one tooth left on one of the tools and thought why do I have to try and get both sides of a pin at once? I didn't.

In fact, I found (and still find) that I don't have to apply as much push-in pressure or hold the wire as much when only trying to do one side at a time. In addition, doing one side at a time has cut down my pin removal time tremendously (sometimes I would have to try 4 or 5 times to get the wire free doing both sides of the pin at once.) Here is a link to my build log where I shot some crappy pics of my one side at a time process - *CLICKY*.

Give it a shot - it works!


----------



## subnet

The main question was about these cables:



They look very tempting indeed.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> My two cents on the pin removal - I discovered that for me it was MUCH easier to insert the tool into one side at a time when trying to remove a pin. This happened one day when I was trying to finalize my sleeving on Tiamat and I broke not one, but two tools! So I only had one tooth left on one of the tools and thought why do I have to try and get both sides of a pin at once? I didn't.
> In fact, I found (and still find) that I don't have to apply as much push-in pressure or hold the wire as much when only trying to do one side at a time. In addition, doing one side at a time has cut down my pin removal time tremendously (sometimes I would have to try 4 or 5 times to get the wire free doing both sides of the pin at once.) Here is a link to my build log where I shot some crappy pics of my one side at a time process - *CLICKY*.
> Give it a shot - it works!


Great work... I love the look of paracord


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subnet*
> 
> The main question was about these cables:
> 
> They look very tempting indeed.


I have these cables and I replied in previous posts, did you see them?


----------



## Jim McNasty

Hey folks

After my first delivery from Nils at MDPC-X, I have attacked my psu cables and here are the results

Before I post pictures, i would just like to say how utterly blown away I am with he service from MDPC-X. the little doodles on the packaging and my customized pin removal tool really did make the whole thing just a little more special,
Fantastic products and wonderful service, an absolute delight.

Anyways, i know my attempts are not perfect and i still have lots to do, my technique is slowly improving....i think lol


----------



## adi518

Hmmm... that red connector got to go! Get a black one!









@Lutro0, yes you're correct. I believe the corsair stuff is made from paracord like the rest of them, e.g., nzxt, bitfenix, and maybe modright (not too sure what they use). And I'm also not sure if they give out length options. It does set a good budget solution but as you said, it doesn't replace a premium custom solution.









Btw, one annoying thing I noticed with paracord is that it really sticks to velcro, meaning velcro can easily tear it if you're not careful enough. It doesn't happen with the higher end sleeving though.


----------



## RushMore1205

so got some sleeving done, the 24 pin is complete, i m going inside the psu with the sleeve so it looks stock, but the size of the sleeve has expanded the space so i will need to cut a bigger hole in the psu, which i really did not want to do, but it will be done tomorrow,

anyway here some pictures, first time sleeving with MDPC its the best in the world


















































Edit:

also took some shots under UV, looks great.... in my opion


----------



## krajee

What color shrink would you use for color-x sleeving? I'm thinking black, but would red look better? It's a black/red/white ROG theme.


----------



## Furion92

@krajee: Either use black or white. I wouldn't go for the red and probably not for white either.

Guys I think I found a psu that fits my needs!!

It's the *OCZ ZT 850W*. It's a black power supply, not too long, not too pricey, black (and grey) connectors, no capacitors/ferrite cores, and a 1-1 pinout! **** yeah! =)

The only downers are the fan (which is a little bit noisy under load) and the lack of an MOV (whatever that is xD).
I might just change the fan and void my warranty 'cause I don't really care.

What do you think about it?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> @krajee: Either use black or white. I wouldn't go for the red and probably not for white either.
> Guys I think I found a psu that fits my needs!!
> It's the *OCZ ZT 850W*. It's a black power supply, not too long, not too pricey, black (and grey) connectors, no capacitors/ferrite cores, and a 1-1 pinout! **** yeah! =)
> The only downers are the fan (which is a little bit noisy under load) and the lack of an MOV (whatever that is xD).
> I might just change the fan and void my warranty 'cause I don't really care.
> What do you think about it?


If that is true -my back hurts too bad to try to look into it- that would bring great joy to my heart as OCZ is one of my favorite companies.


----------



## liquidzoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Hmmm... that red connector got to go! Get a black one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Lutro0, yes you're correct. I believe the corsair stuff is made from paracord like the rest of them, e.g., nzxt, bitfenix, and maybe modright (not too sure what they use). And I'm also not sure if they give out length options. It does set a good budget solution but as you said, it doesn't replace a premium custom solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, one annoying thing I noticed with paracord is that it really sticks to velcro, meaning velcro can easily tear it if you're not careful enough. It doesn't happen with the higher end sleeving though.


I'm pretty sure that the NZXT extensions are not paracord.

I have a couple (though they will be replaced by my own either extensions or sleeving an entire PSU), and they feel like a plastic material rather than the fabric feel of paracord.


----------



## Furion92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> If that is true -my back hurts too bad to try to look into it- that would bring great joy to my heart as OCZ is one of my favorite companies.



here's the back of the psu

mechanical drawing
and here you can see how many cables come out of every connection

24 - ATX
8 - EPS/PCIe
5 - SATA
4 - Peripheral/Floppy

=) =) =)

here you go Lutro0, hope you get well really soon


----------



## adi518

Nice power supply, although, it only comes with SLI/CF from 750w and on.


----------



## Furion92

The weakest ZT model is 850 watts adi518








BTW: boom! bought!


----------



## liquidzoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> The weakest ZT model is 850 watts adi518
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW: boom! bought!


No it's not. They have a 550W ZT model too


----------



## Furion92

I see my mistake! I wrote *ZT* although I meant *ZX*. But as you say I think the ZT models would be fine for sleeving, too. However I wanted a Gold certified psu so I ordered the 850w ZX.


----------



## liquidzoo

Gotcha.

I'm trying to find a new PSU for myself as well and may be buying that ZT model (or a similar one) based on the Hardware Secrets reviews (and if someone can confirm a 1:1 pinout).

I had thought about getting a Thermaltake TR2 600W, but on further research it seems that the model I was going to buy (TR-600) is crap. Back to square one.


----------



## Furion92

@liquidzoo: I'm gonna write as soon as I get the unit, whether it's got the 1-1 pinout or not. There aren't many choices. To wrap it up:

- Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid - ribbon cables, very expensive
- Silverstone Strider 600W and 1200W - only 80+ and 80+ bronze certification, very hard to find (especially the 600W model)
- any other Silverstone Strider - capacitors on the pcie cable ends
- OCZ ZT or XT series
- any other power supply - you've got to solder the sense voltage lines to the respective voltage lines inside the psu to make it look clean (-> voids your warranty and lowers the efficiency of the voltage regulation)


----------



## BlazinJoker

I say







to you for the research you've gone through in order to share which PSU's are the easiest to sleeve! This could be helpful to many people including me


----------



## krajee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> @krajee: Either use black or white. I wouldn't go for the red and probably not for white either.
> Guys I think I found a psu that fits my needs!!
> It's the *OCZ ZT 850W*. It's a black power supply, not too long, not too pricey, black (and grey) connectors, no capacitors/ferrite cores, and a 1-1 pinout! **** yeah! =)
> The only downers are the fan (which is a little bit noisy under load) and the lack of an MOV (whatever that is xD).
> I might just change the fan and void my warranty 'cause I don't really care.
> What do you think about it?


MOV - metal oxide varistor


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquidzoo*
> 
> No it's not. They have a 550W ZT model too


Yes, I looked it up too. No 80+ Gold tho.


----------



## Vestito

cannot... get... order... through.... mdpc..... nils.... please... get... betterrr.... soon.....







*RAGE*


----------



## longroadtrip

I hear ya...ran out of titanium grey today and need some to finish this build!


----------



## Furion92

Seems like I've been lucky on wednesday. Opened the website -> "NEXT OPENING TIME: Wednesday at 23h00 MEZ" and that was about 2 hours later









Unfortunately I've just noticed, that every goddamn psu has got at least! one 3.3V sense wire (except the very old units). And even a bit worse, there are loads of capacitors on the wires of the OCZ ZX 850W









So here's what I'm gonna do:

- cut those capacitors off (I've seen others doing it, should be no problem)
- open up the power supply
- find the connections of the sense pin and a 3.3V pin
- solder them together internally
- close it

What I'm maybe gonna do:

- adding some very small resistors between those two pins internally (-> compensating the lack of resistance from the original wire)
- changing the fan, because the warranty will be voided anyway

I'm not very sure about adding the internal resistors, because they should only be something like ~50mΩ which is VERY small and I coudn't find one near that size.
Would you personally just leave them away? My soldering skills aren't the greatest either *lol*


----------



## Vestito

I managed to catch it today, while driving to work. Was able to place almost everything I needed in my cart, then the store shut down.. Now I have all this stuff in my cart and no way to check out







........... Must wait until sunday I think is the next opening.. to click the checkout... sigh


----------



## grassh0ppa

might tackle the 24 pin cable this weekend to finish my sleeve job


----------



## evolutionxxx86

I see someone has done a mod to the wires on there power supply.

I have a Thermaltake 1200W (TP-1200M) wonder if I can do the same with my power supply ?

The 2 sets of wires for the video cards look like @#&%, Any thoughts ?


----------



## andrewbkillen

Does anyone have like a price sheet or anything cached from MDPC. I really want to start planning for a PSU sleeve but I don't want to rush to the site to plan for 5 minutes every other day









Also thanks for all the inspiration. I've wanted to do something like this for a while but this thread pushed me over the edge









Andrew


----------



## Furion92

I suggest going to the german mdpc-x site. You can summarize all the prices in € and convert it afterwards.


----------



## andrewbkillen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> I suggest going to the german mdpc-x site. You can summarize all the prices in € and convert it afterwards.


I don't see any product on the German site either?


----------



## Furion92

Strange, he normally only closes the international shop^^

I've got a problem with the capacitors on the OCZ psu. Before I remove them, I should write down their polarity but can't find any marks or something.
Am I right that polarity DOES matter with these?

//edit: Oh wait I'm an idiot







Theres a HUGE stripe that marks negative xD


----------



## strych9

I have a question. I'm planning to sleeve my XFX PRO550W non-modular PSU. MDPC-X isn't available atm I guess, what other alternatives are there? I'll go for a white color with a few red highlights. And when I sleeve all cables from the inside of the PSU case, will the cables altogether fit in the hole of the PSU case? I mean, the total diameter of all cables will increase, right? Is there any special way to fit in the cables through the holes?


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strych9*
> 
> I have a question. I'm planning to sleeve my XFX PRO550W non-modular PSU. MDPC-X isn't available atm I guess, what other alternatives are there? I'll go for a white color with a few red highlights. And when I sleeve all cables from the inside of the PSU case, will the cables altogether fit in the hole of the PSU case? I mean, the total diameter of all cables will increase, right? Is there any special way to fit in the cables through the holes?


Only other thing available right now is paracord. Yes, you will have to open up the hole that the cables come out of. Pretty easy with a dremel to just open it up a bit. If using paracord, you might want to use some u-channel on the opening since it stags pretty easily. If you can get a hold of some mdpc, it is quite durable and you won't need the u-channel.

Paracord linky


----------



## strych9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Only other thing available right now is paracord. Yes, you will have to open up the hole that the cables come out of. Pretty easy with a dremel to just open it up a bit. If using paracord, you might want to use some u-channel on the opening since it stags pretty easily. If you can get a hold of some mdpc, it is quite durable and you won't need the u-channel.
> Paracord linky


Thanks for the info, REP+. I don't have a dremel or any other power tool, is there any other way to open it up?


----------



## MP SLY MP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Only other thing available right now is paracord. Yes, you will have to open up the hole that the cables come out of. Pretty easy with a dremel to just open it up a bit. If using paracord, you might want to use some u-channel on the opening since it stags pretty easily. If you can get a hold of some mdpc, it is quite durable and you won't need the u-channel.
> Paracord linky


You just saved me mula! +Rep for you.

I just ordered 300' of misc colors to try out and got all kinds of discounts for taking surveys and liking on facebook! Came out to .06 approx a foot


----------



## cre3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strych9*
> 
> Thanks for the info, REP+. I don't have a dremel or any other power tool, is there any other way to open it up?


A file would work, though it would take a little more time.


----------



## Lutro0

Well I havent posted much lately due to the surgery and what not, but I decided to get some of the past orders I have done.








8 Pins Spin Me Round by Lutro0, on Flickr


Blue 8 Pins by Lutro0, on Flickr


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Well I havent posted much lately due to the surgery and what not, but I decided to get some of the past orders I have done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8 Pins Spin Me Round by Lutro0, on Flickr
> 
> Blue 8 Pins by Lutro0, on Flickr


You rock Lutro0


----------



## Vestito

YESSSSS FINALLY GOT MY ORDER THROUGH!!


----------



## Lutro0

I know the discussion of caps and if we can remove them has come up and now it has gained my interest. I am not a electrical guru, but I dont throw around my word lightly, and do not say anything without being informed. I have always been a believe in that they should not be removed, but the latest psu discussion has caused me to do some digging.

The initial word from a few of the PSU Gurus on OCN is that they need to be there to reduce ripple and generally stabilize a power supply. I am sure one of them can pitch in and explain a bit more but you get the idea.

I am currently in discussion with both OCZ and Silverstone to see the need and function of these caps, and the price/reaction to the psu for removing them.

From what I have dug up from from wording from many different sites, they are there to:



_"To reduce electrical whine/buzz associated with high performance graphics card's dynamic loading changes & helps to maintain better voltage stability and improve ripple & noise performance." - "Capacitors attached to PCI-E cables to reduce electrical noise"_

Also from the massive amount of looking at power supplies for an upcoming addition to my Sleeving FAQ on which PSUs are best to be sleeved, I have noticed a trend in use of the caps.

For example the Silverstone Strider Plus Series 850w and others only have caps on the PCIE cables. which applies to the above statement.

However the OCZ ZX850 has caps on the 24pin and many other places.....

This brings me to my first *initial conclusion* for right now untill I finish my conversations with OCZ and Silverstone. (note: I will be doing this and have on two systems right now)

For the Silverstones or others (maybe) that only have caps on the PCIE cables and your power supply is more than your system needs at full power usage, and you don't plan to do any world record overclocking on your system. I say go ahead and remove them.

However for those Powersupplies like the OCZ ones that depend so much on caps in many different places.... I dont think it would be a good idea as the ripple is on more then just the pcie lane, its on many other parts of the psu. But this is a questions I will get an answer to soon.

For right now if you remove them off of any power supply you will most likely void the warranty, and you are removing a part of the power supply that was added to improve performance. So when taking this decision please keep those things in mind.

I hope some of this helps everyone out there, and I hope to get a clean answer on this but right now I wanted to share my findings so that those that cant wait have somewhere to start.

ADDED NOTE: The silverstone short cables do not have the caps. on the normal long cables. Which leads to the initial thoughts of it should work fine without them.


----------



## Furion92

Hey Lutro0, great post there








You just confirmed my decision to remove the caps and resolder them to the inside of the psu. Because there are so many of them on my OCZ ZX 850W (5 on ATX, 1 on every PCIe, 1 on every 4pin molex, 1 on every sata cable), I wouldn't dare to remove them all without resoldering them anywhere else.

Hopefully there's nothing wrong with my plans (otherwise please warn me!), the result should turn out pretty clean. Within the next week or so, I'm gonna do the soldering and sleeving and post pics after I've finished everything.
That's quite a lot of money that I'm pushing into that psu ...







that's 150€ for the psu, 72€ for the soldering equipment, 24€ for some connectors and stuff, 116€ for Nils (crimper, sata-sleeve, usb-sleeve, pin-remover, cable clamps...), 25€ for the sleeve and finally another 21€ for the replacement-fan... oh damn I don't wanna sum that up







that's better gonna be one hell of a power supply


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> Hey Lutro0, great post there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You just confirmed my decision to remove the caps and resolder them to the inside of the psu. Because there are so many of them on my OCZ ZX 850W (5 on ATX, 1 on every PCIe, 1 on every 4pin molex, 1 on every sata cable), I wouldn't dare to remove them all without resoldering them anywhere else.
> Hopefully there's nothing wrong with my plans (otherwise please warn me!), the result should turn out pretty clean. Within the next week or so, I'm gonna do the soldering and sleeving and post pics after I've finished everything.
> That's quite a lot of money that I'm pushing into that psu ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's 150€ for the psu, 72€ for the soldering equipment, 24€ for some connectors and stuff, 116€ for Nils (crimper, sata-sleeve, usb-sleeve, pin-remover, cable clamps...), 25€ for the sleeve and finally another 21€ for the replacement-fan... oh damn I don't wanna sum that up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's better gonna be one hell of a power supply


I really cant tell you yet if that will work or not, common sense says it should. But I will know more as I find out.

I have both of the psus I mentioned above and I am returning both, the ocz due to the caps and the silverstone due to the blue connectors. I fully sleeved my powerdercoated psu for my mod and now I am using a totally different psu for the mod.... hahah so I know how it goes.


----------



## cbrazeau1115

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I know the discussion of caps and if we can remove them has come up and now it has gained my interest. I am not a electrical guru, but I dont throw around my word lightly, and do not say anything without being informed. I have always been a believe in that they should not be removed, but the latest psu discussion has caused me to do some digging.
> The initial word from a few of the PSU Gurus on OCN is that they need to be there to reduce ripple and generally stabilize a power supply. I am sure one of them can pitch in and explain a bit more but you get the idea.
> I am currently in discussion with both OCZ and Silverstone to see the need and function of these caps, and the price/reaction to the psu for removing them.
> From what I have dug up from from wording from many different sites, they are there to:
> _"To reduce electrical whine/buzz associated with high performance graphics card's dynamic loading changes & helps to maintain better voltage stability and improve ripple & noise performance." - "Capacitors attached to PCI-E cables to reduce electrical noise"_
> Also from the massive amount of looking at power supplies for an upcoming addition to my Sleeving FAQ on which PSUs are best to be sleeved, I have noticed a trend in use of the caps.
> For example the Silverstone Strider Plus Series 850w and others only have caps on the PCIE cables. which applies to the above statement.
> However the OCZ ZX850 has caps on the 24pin and many other places.....
> This brings me to my first *initial conclusion* for right now untill I finish my conversations with OCZ and Silverstone. (note: I will be doing this and have on two systems right now)
> For the Silverstones or others (maybe) that only have caps on the PCIE cables and your power supply is more than your system needs at full power usage, and you don't plan to do any world record overclocking on your system. I say go ahead and remove them.
> However for those Powersupplies like the OCZ ones that depend so much on caps in many different places.... I dont think it would be a good idea as the ripple is on more then just the pcie lane, its on many other parts of the psu. But this is a questions I will get an answer to soon.
> For right now if you remove them off of any power supply you will most likely void the warranty, and you are removing a part of the power supply that was added to improve performance. So when taking this decision please keep those things in mind.
> I hope some of this helps everyone out there, and I hope to get a clean answer on this but right now I wanted to share my findings so that those that cant wait have somewhere to start.


The capactiors are there to stablize power. Think of a capacitor as a tiny battery. You provide it power and it builds a charge. When a device requires extra power quickly the capactior discharges and provides that extra power and then recharges. Thus, if there is fluctuation in power usage the capactior helps reduce the noise and stablize the circuit.

And now you know!


----------



## ixsis

Regarding the caps on the Strider, if you buy the additional set of shorter cables designed to work specifically with the Strider, the PCI-E cables do NOT have the caps. They are _*only*_ on the longer cables that come with the PSU.


----------



## [email protected]

Ok i am back! Sorry been away and it's good to know you're doing ok. I may be in need of service soon by next month! Been planning on upgrades soon.


----------



## cbrazeau1115

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ixsis*
> 
> Regarding the caps on the Strider, if you buy the additional set of shorter cables designed to work specifically with the Strider, the PCI-E cables do NOT have the caps. They are _*only*_ on the longer cables that come with the PSU.


That is because the longer the cable the more resistance and thus the increase in fluctuation in power... which the capactior stablizes.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ixsis*
> 
> Regarding the caps on the Strider, if you buy the additional set of shorter cables designed to work specifically with the Strider, the PCI-E cables do NOT have the caps. They are _*only*_ on the longer cables that come with the PSU.


Thanks I will add that to the write up. Eventually I will turn it into an FAQ format.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cbrazeau1115*
> 
> The capactiors are there to stablize power. Think of a capacitor as a tiny battery. You provide it power and it builds a charge. When a device requires extra power quickly the capactior discharges and provides that extra power and then recharges. Thus, if there is fluctuation in power usage the capactior helps reduce the noise and stablize the circuit.
> And now you know!


The question is not what is a capacitor, although thanks for the info as that does partly answer the question. The question is how does it effect the powers performance and at what cost comes with removing them. Like what happens when those fluctuations happen and the cap isn't there?
Moreso, what is the effect for removing the ones that are close to the powersuppply in the 24pin on the OCZ?
More importantly while we are at at, what effect does it have on any of the places they decide to add it to?


----------



## Furion92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cbrazeau1115*
> 
> That is because the longer the cable the more resistance and thus the increase in fluctuation in power... which the capactior stablizes.


Well the resistance in those wires is VERY small. I thought about replacing the sense wire with a small resistor, but I couldn't find any that's got such a small capacity. The only option would've been 1cm of very low resistance constantan wire. I almost ordered some until I've noticed that all those multimeters that I was about to buy couldn't even measure such small amounts of resistance. -> I decided not to do that. (.. because I coudn't even have verified the modification I've done)
I can't imagine that those tiny tiny resistance-values can make a noticeable difference in the performance of the psu. So I'd just say that it doesn't matter where those caps are located, as long as they stay in the same circuit you should be alright.

@Lutro0: Which caps do you mean that should be near the psu? I made an Excel file where I've collected all the information that I have about those cables. -> colours, double wires and caps (with polarity)
and as far as I can tell, all those caps are on the other end of the cables (on the components' side). Did I miss anything?^^


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> Well the resistance in those wires is VERY small. I thought about replacing the sense wire with a small resistor, but I couldn't find any that's got such a small capacity. The only option would've been 1cm of very low resistance constantan wire. I almost ordered some until I've noticed that all those multimeters that I was about to buy couldn't even measure such small amounts of resistance. -> I decided not to do that. (.. because I coudn't even have verified the modification I've done)
> I can't imagine that those tiny tiny resistance-values can make a noticeable difference in the performance of the psu. So I'd just say that it doesn't matter where those caps are located, as long as they stay in the same circuit you should be alright.
> @Lutro0: Which caps do you mean that should be near the psu? I made an Excel file where I've collected all the information that I have about those cables. -> colours, double wires and caps (with polarity)
> and as far as I can tell, all those caps are on the other end of the cables (on the components' side). Did I miss anything?^^


Ah, no I was just meaning ones that are on all sorts of different kinds of wires. Some 24 pin and some molex and what not. I am having an expert doing a write up for me right now on this whole thing, both in technical jargon and in everyday language and I will be compiling it into my faq this week.


----------



## Lutro0

need more pics in here...


John Sleeve in the Make by Lutro0, on Flickr


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> need more pics in here...
> 
> 
> John Sleeve in the Make by Lutro0, on Flickr


Oh now, Flikr is blocked at work









And here's my updated rig with some sleeved extensions made by a certain awesome someone on this forum in this thread in the post above me...

I'm aware I need to fix the rainbow effect though...


----------



## Lutro0

And some more....


John 24 Side by Lutro0, on Flickr


John 24 Full by Lutro0, on Flickr


John 24 Uptop by Lutro0, on Flickr


John fun by Lutro0, on Flickr


----------



## Furion92

Can you get more than 1 wire into a paracord sleeve?
Because I've received my white "paracord" today and it's 3mm in diameter. I just testfitted a little piece on one of my cables and it's insanely tight.

I'm not sure whether to use it or not. It's very hard to get over the pin (although covered!).
Let's see how the treatment with chlorine works, because it's just not bright enough for me to look perfect.

I might aswell order some black mdpc-x sleeve (would be my third order from Nils within one week xD) to cover all those triple wires (fans). That would go well with my theme, too.

What would you guys suggest? Getting some "real" paracord and sleeving all cables including those triples from the fans? Or going for the tight look and finding a solution for the fan cables?
I really don't know what to do...


----------



## nickbaldwin86

it is hard enough to get one wire in paracord ... I can get all 3 wires on a fan in paracord though


----------



## Furion92

EPIC FAIL -.-

Alright, so I sat down today to do all the soldering of the caps and the sense wire.

Well, that's what I intended to do...

Long story short: the OEM of OCZ used a solder that seems to be melting beyond 500°C (that's how far my soldering iron goes).

-> couldn't remove the solder from the downside to take one pcb out (that way I coud've had a lot more space to work more carefully)
-> couldn't even cover those pins with my own solder to attach the caps/wires...... It just kept pearling away....









I'm gonna pack that thing up and take it to my company tomorrow, so that I can ask for some wise words from our soldering gods. Hopefully they can help me out. Otherwise I just spent 400€ for a standard power supply...

Oh and yeah, the chlorine treatment of my paracord made it...... wait for it........ DARKER and matt.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> Long story short: the OEM of OCZ used a solder that seems to be melting beyond 500°C (that's how far my soldering iron goes).
> -> couldn't remove the solder from the downside to take one pcb out (that way I coud've had a lot more space to work more carefully)
> -> couldn't even cover those pins with my own solder to attach the caps/wires...... It just kept pearling away....


Maybe the pins are oxidised too much already. Did you use any flux? That should combat the pearling. I don't know which soldering iron you have, but it's possible that putting it up to 500C has ruined the tip and then it's hard for it to spread the heat effectively. The PSU design will be a great heat conductor and thus itself a strong heatsink, maybe lowering the overall temperature below melting point.

Edit: oh and 500C will certainly evaporate more quickly the flux which is included in the solder core.


----------



## Furion92

@WiSK: The pins looked alright. I did use flux but couldn't reach there properly. Anyways there should've been some on the pins. I tried it with the recommended temperature for my iron (~310°C) and as it didn't work at all I turned it up to the max. You're right that my tip looks pretty ****ed up (oxidized all the way) although I tinned it at the beginning. Now the solder just drips off. I'm still curious what kind of metal they used to solder the whole psu....


----------



## DiamondCut

Alright so I just ordered some paracord and I plan on trying some new methods of how to manage the wires after its all done. My idea is to either glue small magnets inside the paracord and then create a metal piece that will go in between all the wires of the 24 pin making them stay uniform through the whole extension.

Would there be any concerns for the small magnets?
Has this been done?
Thoughts?
Comments?
Thanks


----------



## ArkAngel666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiamondCut*
> 
> Alright so I just ordered some paracord and I plan on trying some new methods of how to manage the wires after its all done. My idea is to either glue small magnets inside the paracord and then create a metal piece that will go in between all the wires of the 24 pin making them stay uniform through the whole extension.
> Would there be any concerns for the small magnets?
> Has this been done?
> Thoughts?
> Comments?
> Thanks


Not sure if I'm completely correct about this.... but, I thought magnets and computers don't go together









Don't know if magnets would effect the power transmission... but I'd err on the side of caution.


----------



## Aleckazee

Sorry if this has been mentioned but I can't seem to remove the pins on the 24-pin connector on my Corsair TX650 psu. I've got the special tool to do it but no matter how hard I pull, I tried pushing in then pulling out but still nothing, and it's not just a couple of them, I can't take any of them out. The Molex ones seem to come out easily but this 24-pin is killing me, u guys have any tips or something?

EDIT: Just broke the f-ing tool


----------



## Nemesis158

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArkAngel666*
> 
> Not sure if I'm completely correct about this.... but, I thought magnets and computers don't go together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't know if magnets would effect the power transmission... but I'd err on the side of caution.


some PSU's have Ferrite beads on their VGA cables right? Well Ferrite Beads are basically magnets.....
The issue lies in where the magnets are. You would think that HDDs would be really susceptible to magnets, yet they already have High-power Neodymium magnets in them to move the head. pretty sure you would need an insanely strong magnet to affect an HDD.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleckazee*
> 
> Sorry if this has been mentioned but I can't seem to remove the pins on the 24-pin connector on my Corsair TX650 psu. I've got the special tool to do it but no matter how hard I pull, I tried pushing in then pulling out but still nothing, and it's not just a couple of them, I can't take any of them out. The Molex ones seem to come out easily but this 24-pin is killing me, u guys have any tips or something?
> EDIT: Just broke the f-ing tool


Most corsair pins are hard to remove due to the pins gripping onto or being dug into the plastic during the manufacturing process. If you have not checked out my mdpc video guide it explains how to grip the wire to get the right leverage to pull those pins out - but of course you need to make sure that tool has the prongs pushed down.

The tool I recommend even if you just had one is the Original Molex Tool - it can be found at frozen-cpu or MDPC


----------



## evolutionxxx86

http://www.overclock.net/image/id/1957350/

width/600/height/450]







[/URL]
Not to bad if I say so my self


----------



## Furion92

Well guys, I started sleeving... it took me approx. 3 hours to sleeve 8 cables








and I'm not even satisfied by the result..

What do you think of the colour?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> Well guys, I started sleeving... it took me approx. 3 hours to sleeve 8 cables
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I'm not even satisfied by the result..
> What do you think of the colour?


Dont know if its your cam or not, but it looks to be yellowish.

Also: I have made a guide on how to get your order in easily at mdpc.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1226831/guide-how-to-order-mdpc-during-short-open-times-time-zone-calc-cart-method/


----------



## Furion92

@Lutro0: The colours are quite accurate in this picture. As you probably noticed the front facing cables in the connectors are yellowish and the others are significantly darker. I wouldn't have thought that the cable-colours would shine through like that. The sleeve looks very dense and when I'm looking very very close to the sleeved cables, there's absolutely no gap where the colour could possibly shine through. Confuses me a bit^^. Maybe the material is too thin after all.

Has anyone got a picture of white mdpc sleeve over white cables? Preferably without heatshrinks








I might get the 100m package from Nils if it looks very very white.


----------



## KoSoVaR^

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> Well guys, I started sleeving... it took me approx. 3 hours to sleeve 8 cables
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I'm not even satisfied by the result..
> What do you think of the colour?


Heeey !
Did you get this "FAbric Sleeve" From www.djungelapa.se?
http://djungelapa.se/category.php?id_category=27


----------



## Furion92

@KoSoVaR: no sorry, I got it from this place. It's rather a cord than sleeving. Something like paracord but made of polypropylene.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> @Lutro0: The colours are quite accurate in this picture. As you probably noticed the front facing cables in the connectors are yellowish and the others are significantly darker. I wouldn't have thought that the cable-colours would shine through like that. The sleeve looks very dense and when I'm looking very very close to the sleeved cables, there's absolutely no gap where the colour could possibly shine through. Confuses me a bit^^. Maybe the material is too thin after all.
> Has anyone got a picture of white mdpc sleeve over white cables? Preferably without heatshrinks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might get the 100m package from Nils if it looks very very white.


I use black wire and it looks just fine, take a look in my gallery.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> Has anyone got a picture of white mdpc sleeve over white cables? Preferably without heatshrinks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might get the 100m package from Nils if it looks very very white.


Nils' own photographs on the MDPC site are done under perfect lighting conditions (daylight from an overcast sky). So you best look there if you want to know how it will look in your hands. If the English site is closed, sometimes you can still see the items on the German site.

Here is some MDPC white of mine. You can't see the wire through the sleeve. Try to guess how far up I pushed it.


----------



## Furion92

Oh lord my bank account's gonna hate me









@WiSK: that's exactly what I was looking for! Thank you very much for posting. How thick is your white cable?

The only remaining question is: to heatshrink or not to heatshrink


----------



## WiSK

I believe it's 2.2mm: this cable http://www.conrad.de/goto.php?artikel=604611 but actually I was looking for 2.0mm.


----------



## Water Cooled

Oh how I've missed this thread.......


----------



## R4MP4G3

I finished sleeving with paracord and I must say that I like it so much more than mdpc-x. Its not to say that I don't like mdpc but I didn't use heatshrink with paracord and it looks really nice!


----------



## strych9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R4MP4G3*
> 
> I finished sleeving with paracord and I must say that I like it so much more than mdpc-x. Its not to say that I don't like mdpc but I didn't use heatshrink with paracord and it looks really nice!


Pics please ^_^


----------



## Lutro0

I second that, we have been a while without pics.... I am making wires.... anyone want a bunch of shots of that hahah


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I second that, we have been a while without pics.... I am making wires.... anyone want a bunch of shots of that hahah


Yes i would like to see pics haha

im so excited to start sleeving just got my pin removal tools in the mail from frozenCPU.com now im just waiting for my red paracord to get here

here are both the tools

the ATX removal tool with its handle

and my own idea that i found in my garage for a anti tangle tool


here is how u you use it

its a dremel collet and it is awesome here is a link to them if u wanted


----------



## Lutro0

From a trusted source, if you melt the tip of the paracord before trying to sleeve with it, the results will be much better. However that might kill the collet idea.

However an anti tangle tool can be made with a nail, and an old antenna. Or dude on here makes one, i have both and really either works just as well. But the main idea is to have the tool not be bigger then it needs to be as some paracord is not really expandable. However you will find this out with more sleeving.


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> From a trusted source, if you melt the tip of the paracord before trying to sleeve with it, the results will be much better. However that might kill the collet idea.
> However an anti tangle tool can be made with a nail, and an old antenna. Or dude on here makes one, i have both and really either works just as well. But the main idea is to have the tool not be bigger then it needs to be as some paracord is not really expandable. However you will find this out with more sleeving.


Oh about the paracord expanding and fraying like that in the pic that was some really cheap paracord that is used for a clothes line that i had lying around i ordered some good red stuff to go along with my build and i tried melting it to the collet like the video that is in the other thread and it work just fine so i think i should be ok andif not ill probably go make my own from an antennae

thank you lutro0..ur always a big help


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hartk1213*
> 
> Oh about the paracord expanding and fraying like that in the pic that was some really cheap paracord that is used for a clothes line that i had lying around i ordered some good red stuff to go along with my build and i tried melting it to the collet like the video that is in the other thread and it work just fine so i think i should be ok andif not ill probably go make my own from an antennae
> thank you lutro0..ur always a big help


Well I try my best. I am not against new things, but after trying as many things as I have, if I can save someone some frustration then all the better.


----------



## audioholic

Just started this a few days ago. The blue/black is much thicker and more soft...I guess that would be the right word. But I am pleased with results. Will you be going heat shrink less?


----------



## audioholic

Oh of course photo doesn't work on iPad...sorry for the empty hole here guys.
Here is a link to what I am talking about.
http://www.overclock.net/t/96415/post-your-rate-my-cables-here/20690#post_16697308








One thing is if you do go heatshrink less ..you really have to more or less mold the molten part...I still don't have the rolling technique down...pull the paracord as tight as you can and put the end about where the wires are on the pin. Then melt away...and try and roll...like I said lots of mine come out squarish on the tips but they still work. If you need help let me know as well. I am no pro like lutro0 but I can try and help you out.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Don't know if this is asked already,

But

Does individual cable sleeving allow for tighter bends comparing to cables being sleeved together? (for better cable management)

I am asking, because I need a tight bend on my 24pin connector and video card's (2x 6+6pins).

Plus

Is it difficult to remove factory applied heat shrink?







Or do I need to replace the cable as well?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Does individual cable sleeving allow for tighter bends comparing to cables being sleeved together? (for better cable management)
> I am asking, because I need a tight bend on my 24pin connector and video card's (2x 6+6pins).
> Plus
> Is it difficult to remove factory applied heat shrink?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or do I need to replace the cable as well?


If you want a very tight bend, it's the heatshrink that gets in the way. So look for the guides which explain how to melt the sleeve directly onto the pin. Where is the cable going that you need a small curve?

You can usually remove factory heathrink easily with an Exacto or other hobby knife.


----------



## ginger_nuts

I am trying to figure out the best way to route my cables, mainly in the highlighted section's


----------



## Furion92

Your running into problems because this f.... sorry... beautiful =) power supply has got some nice capacitors under the heatshrink ;P


----------



## Lutro0

Some recent photos, I have a new camera. So, its going to take some getting used to.


----------



## axipher

Looking great man


----------



## Hartk1213

just got my red paracord in the mail today and i started sleeving right away just bare with me this is my first time ever sleeving a PSU ive tried with really crappy paracord to see but not with this nice stuff...man this paracord is really nice
btw im going with out heatshrink
time for pics
let me know what you guys think

[/URL

finished my pci-e 2x 6pin for my Seasonic x-650



i think for my first time it turned out great
there will be more pics when i get more done but im done for now until after spring break


----------



## audioholic

Looks great man! I was unlucky and had 3 pins break on me during my sleeving process...oh well.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hartk1213*
> 
> just got my red paracord in the mail today and i started sleeving right away just bare with me this is my first time ever sleeving a PSU ive tried with really crappy paracord to see but not with this nice stuff...man this paracord is really nice
> btw im going with out heatshrink
> time for pics
> let me know what you guys think
> -snip-
> i think for my first time it turned out great
> there will be more pics when i get more done but im done for now until after spring break


As you asked, I am replying to this. You did a great job, just remember to keep that sleeving tight.


----------



## jonnylaris

Can anyone tell me where the best place to buy cable braid in the UK is?

I bought lots of mod/smart 3mm braid in black and red but it looks like crap and you can see through it.

Also the 3mm braid is a very tight fit, is it best to go for 4mm? Also what size of heatshrink is best?


----------



## Furion92

Did you consider ordering from MDPC-X? You won't find better quality and the price is fair.


----------



## Theultimateeye

What size heatshrink are y'all using? I just ordered 1/4" from frozencpu and i'm kind of regretting it now. It seems like it doesn't shrink enough for 1/8" sleeving. Even if i just hold the flame directly under it, the hs won't shrink down small enough to go securely over the pin.


----------



## PappaSmurfsHarem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theultimateeye*
> 
> What size heatshrink are y'all using? I just ordered 1/4" from frozencpu and i'm kind of regretting it now. It seems like it doesn't shrink enough for 1/8" sleeving. Even if i just hold the flame directly under it, the hs won't shrink down small enough to go securely over the pin.


MDPC is supposed to have the best heatshrink around.

I just ordered a bunch a few days ago. It is called Pre-cut Heatshrink SMALL I believe


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PappaSmurfsHarem*
> 
> MDPC is supposed to have the best heatshrink around.
> I just ordered a bunch a few days ago. It is called Pre-cut Heatshrink SMALL I believe


*"MDPC is supposed to have the best heatshrink around."*

Amen to that brother. Hands down.


----------



## Hartk1213

i prefer the heatshrinkless look myself but i also agree that MDPC is one of the best if not the best

i am actually sleeving right now lol heatshrinkless with paracord and i think it looks so awesome

EDIT:

Update on my sleeving
just finished the 24 pin...man that took a long time haha

before sleeving

about a quarter of the way done

this is the way i managed to sleeve the double pins in the 24pin instead of a "V" connection it is now a "Y" connection

half way and about 3 hours in haha

all finished let me know what u guys think


----------



## PappaSmurfsHarem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hartk1213*
> 
> i prefer the heatshrinkless look myself but i also agree that MDPC is one of the best if not the best
> i am actually sleeving right now lol heatshrinkless with paracord and i think it looks so awesome
> EDIT:
> Update on my sleeving
> just finished the 24 pin...man that took a long time haha
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> URL=http://www.overclock.net/image/id/1997164/width/600/height/450]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> before sleeving
> 
> about a quarter of the way done
> 
> this is the way i managed to sleeve the double pins in the 24pin instead of a "V" connection it is now a "Y" connection
> 
> half way and about 3 hours in haha
> 
> all finished let me know what u guys think


Looks pretty good sir.

I'm going to be sleeving with black MDPC when it arrives in the next week or so, but that whole V split cable thing is going to be really irritating.


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PappaSmurfsHarem*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Looks pretty good sir.
> I'm going to be sleeving with black MDPC when it arrives in the next week or so, but that whole V split cable thing is going to be really irritating.


ya its not that bad if you take your time and do it right


----------



## Akula

What size paracord you guys been using?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> What size paracord you guys been using?


450 or 550 will work the best. Please check out my sleeving faq located in my signature. It will be on the third post of my video sleeving guide thread.


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> What size paracord you guys been using?


ya i ordered 550 paracord and it works really good and it looks amazing


----------



## audiofreak95

i used 450 for mine


----------



## Furion92

@audiofreak95: Very nice colour scheme! If only those pci-e connectors were black =(

I'm making custom wires for my whole system right now and I'm wondering if I should sleeve that part:



Sorry for the picture quality, it's only a smartphone picture.

If I try to sleeve it, there will be lots of heatshrinks (which could look not perfectly enough). On the other side, this is obviously an invisible part of the system, so it shouldn't really matter if I'd only sleeve it up to the first sata connector. What do you say?


----------



## audiofreak95

id say just sleeve up to the first sata connector and maybe cover the white with heatshrink


----------



## regles

Got something in the mail.


----------



## audioholic

Oh boy oh boy oh boy ...can't wait to see that


----------



## jlima

Lutro0 thank you for the help & recommendation. I decided to try for myself.







After the First attempt. a revelation: duct tape saves fingertips. I'll post more later...cheers!



White LED's


----------



## Devious ST

anyone got a guide to do the sleeving??? especially the heatsrinkless


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devious ST*
> 
> anyone got a guide to do the sleeving??? especially the heatsrinkless


search Lutro0

u should find every thing u need


----------



## KingMaddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devious ST*
> 
> anyone got a guide to do the sleeving??? especially the heatsrinkless


I looked on youtube and found this. Heatshrink-less paracord sleeving.




I hope I don't step on toes for posting the vid.


----------



## audioholic

Robertts25 on YouTube. He's got some awesome tools you can order as well.


----------



## KingMaddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Robertts25 on YouTube. He's got some awesome tools you can order as well.


I just posted one of his videos.^


----------



## Devious ST

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Robertts25 on YouTube. He's got some awesome tools you can order as well.


is he on here???


----------



## KingMaddog

You can order the tools from the link in the video description that I posted.


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devious ST*
> 
> is he on here???


ya here is his thread i learned how to do my sleeving from his thread and lutro0s tutorials


----------



## MooMoo

Anybody tried to sleeve with Techflex?







http://www.techflex.com/land_adveng.asp You would get nice resistances too


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> Anybody tried to sleeve with Techflex?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.techflex.com/land_adveng.asp You would get nice resistances too


Edit: Could somebody help me getting braided cables? http://www.overclock.net/t/1230940/lf-braided-extension-cables#post_16744303


----------



## PCCstudent

Lutro0 could you show your crimp tool and how to correctly position the terminal in the tool? If this info is in the thread how about a page number?


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCCstudent*
> 
> Lutro0 could you show your crimp tool and how to correctly position the terminal in the tool? If this info is in the thread how about a page number?


He has tutorial links in his sig.


----------



## thomasrs

hey guys!! so i´ve been observing the community for a while now and finally got the courage to sleeve. Im from Brazil and there is absolutely no one doing this here! So I want to help bring it down here. I was very inspired by this gallery adn especially by Lutroo who has trully been my inspiration. I am currently sleeving my PSU and will have pictures when I am done. My fingures hurt so much my girlfriend and I spent and entire weekend sleeving and im still not halfway done, I figure it will take this entire week.

On another note, I had a lot of trouble oopening my PSU. I couldn´t do it so I just ended up sleeving all the way to the end and not inside which is fine. Ill post pictures to show ho it looks and hope you guys aprove please comment when I post. By the end of the week ill be done with it. Can anyone help me though and give me suggestions on how I could open the PSU?

Thanks guys you all are trully an inpiration to get going! I was going to be lazy and buy those extensions but thats no fun.


----------



## Heff04

Got my sleeving from Nils ordered woot!!


----------



## PCCstudent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> He has tutorial links in his sig.


I watched the tool video and I did not see a demo of the tool to crimp the terminals and I looked for links in his "sig" and nothing stands out as "Ah ha here is the crimp tool demo" can you find a picture of the crimp tool he uses.I am having a good bit of trouble with crimps on professionally made cables so I might as well buy the tool,make my own crimps and then only have myself to blame.Thanks

EDIT: If all else fails we have a pretty good (but way expensive) electronics store here in town.I can take my cables with the failed crimps (and the terminal I dug out of the connector) and try and get the crimp tool.I just bet I can tell if a tool is quality or not but I would like to mention one by name at first.I used to do wiring on machines that actually made the base silicon wafer for cpu's and we all had to do a minimum of 8hrs crimp instruction.Some people took longer to learn how to correctly crimp and then there is the pressure of keeping up your crimp quality day in and day out.


----------



## regles

The crimp tool that Lutro0 probably uses is the MDPC crimping tool as it is the best you can get.. It is a little bit pricey but imo worth it.


----------



## WiSK

On the contrary, the MDPC crimper is like 40 euros and comes with over 100 pins free. While the official Molex crimp tool (Molex part number 63819-1000) is 240 euros.


----------



## PCCstudent

OK, I am off to check out both tools,Thanks +reps wisk,regles

EDIT: my searches led me to places that sell the full on Molex tools (yes they are expensive) and to ebay.There is a tremendous amount of crimping tools and crimping tool accessories on ebay.Some are German,some a Swedish.All but the generic tool "from the local computer store" can be real expensive. I checked out making custom cables with aircraft quality cannon style connectors and pins,the cost is astronomical (or better said aeronautical). You really would not want any of the "professional" made cables I have been buying lately on any airplane (espically one you are on) just too many crimp failures.I cannot tell if the failures are from poor/ill maintained tools or poor technique..


----------



## regles

I was comparing the price to a crimper that you can buy at a local computer store. The real molex crimpers are ridiculously priced.


----------



## Sophath

If i want to sleeve a psu with paracord, would any type actually fit? Or are there different type.
http://www.amazon.com/Rothco-Type-III-Commercial-Paracord/dp/B00664KXGA
Thinking of getting 100 ft of these.


----------



## regles

There are different types, but they are similar in size from what I have seen. The most used kind of paracord is 550. The one in you link will work great.


----------



## Sophath

Argh... Just noticed... It's not the canadian store.. lol. Will need to look elsewhere.


----------



## Lutro0

And some of the normalness.

















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thomasrs*
> 
> hey guys!! so i´ve been observing the community for a while now and finally got the courage to sleeve. Im from Brazil and there is absolutely no one doing this here! So I want to help bring it down here. I was very inspired by this gallery adn especially by Lutroo who has trully been my inspiration. I am currently sleeving my PSU and will have pictures when I am done. My fingures hurt so much my girlfriend and I spent and entire weekend sleeving and im still not halfway done, I figure it will take this entire week.
> On another note, I had a lot of trouble oopening my PSU. I couldn´t do it so I just ended up sleeving all the way to the end and not inside which is fine. Ill post pictures to show ho it looks and hope you guys aprove please comment when I post. By the end of the week ill be done with it. Can anyone help me though and give me suggestions on how I could open the PSU?
> Thanks guys you all are trully an inpiration to get going! I was going to be lazy and buy those extensions but thats no fun.


Thanks for the kind words bud, thats why I make the videos in the first place.

And to answer everyone on which crimper I use, I use the MDPC crimper and it by far is the best I have ever used. Its worth every single penny.

I also plan to make a video on how to use it and such after I get done moving and get back to making them.


----------



## thomasrs

hey guys im back been tirelessly sleeving now for a few days and my hands can barely type they hurt so much. Anyway I have decided im going the full monty and sleeving each and every cable ill post everything when im done. Anyways, just wanted to share that I wasn´t able to open my corsair power supply no matter how hard I tried so im just sleeving to the very end of it and leaving some of their crappy sleeve on it then covering the cables with black tape. I figure thats fine what do you guys think? How can i get ir open maybe I can correct the error of my ways hehe. Any ideas? Would it be to unfathomable for this forum for me not to sleeve all the way in?


----------



## PCCstudent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thomasrs*
> 
> hey guys im back been tirelessly sleeving now for a few days and my hands can barely type they hurt so much. Anyway I have decided im going the full monty and sleeving each and every cable ill post everything when im done. Anyways, just wanted to share that I wasn´t able to open my corsair power supply no matter how hard I tried so im just sleeving to the very end of it and leaving some of their crappy sleeve on it then covering the cables with black tape. I figure thats fine what do you guys think? How can i get ir open maybe I can correct the error of my ways hehe. Any ideas? Would it be to unfathomable for this forum for me not to sleeve all the way in?


Do you guys just accept loosing the warranty on your power supply as a cost of sleeving. I removed 1 small piece of heatshrink and Corsair warned me that they will RMA it this time "but not again"


----------



## ArkAngel666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCCstudent*
> 
> Do you guys just accept loosing the warranty on your power supply as a cost of sleeving. I removed 1 small piece of heatshrink and Corsair warned me that they will RMA it this time "but not again"


It's one of the consequences of the hobby... some things mean more to some people than they would to others. I for one hate anything stock, or bland. Aesthetics are what I like, and they must be good.


----------



## liquidzoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCCstudent*
> 
> Do you guys just accept loosing the warranty on your power supply as a cost of sleeving. I removed 1 small piece of heatshrink and Corsair warned me that they will RMA it this time "but not again"


I've never owned a power supply that I've had to RMA (nor have I ever had one that cost enough to worry about it, really), so it's never bothered me.

That said, though, I am building myself extensions rather than doing a full sleeve.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCCstudent*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *thomasrs*
> 
> hey guys im back been tirelessly sleeving now for a few days and my hands can barely type they hurt so much. Anyway I have decided im going the full monty and sleeving each and every cable ill post everything when im done. Anyways, just wanted to share that I wasn´t able to open my corsair power supply no matter how hard I tried so im just sleeving to the very end of it and leaving some of their crappy sleeve on it then covering the cables with black tape. I figure thats fine what do you guys think? How can i get ir open maybe I can correct the error of my ways hehe. Any ideas? Would it be to unfathomable for this forum for me not to sleeve all the way in?
> 
> 
> 
> Do you guys just accept loosing the warranty on your power supply as a cost of sleeving. I removed 1 small piece of heatshrink and Corsair warned me that they will RMA it this time "but not again"
Click to expand...

Definitely a cost of making computers your hobby. I broke my PSU's warranty just so I could put a quieter fan inside of it...


----------



## PCCstudent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquidzoo*
> 
> I've never owned a power supply that I've had to RMA (nor have I ever had one that cost enough to worry about it, really), so it's never bothered me.
> That said, though, I am building myself extensions rather than doing a full sleeve.


I had one go due to a lightining strike and one go due to broken ground wires on a 24-pin extension. Corsair should have denied both (it was not their fault lighting hit my house,and it was not their fault my extension failed) but they went ahead and did it for me.

EDIT: with a schematic and an understanding of the protection circuits in the power supply I bet I could have fixed it myself,but they offered so I accepted.

EDIT: I have 12 rigs now (managed to sell two) 5 are dedicated folders so I guess you could say "computers are my hobby" It is just that the "computer hobby field" is so big.I may want to do folding and watercooling and networking exercises with my group and you want to make things have a personal look,all is good.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCCstudent*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *liquidzoo*
> 
> I've never owned a power supply that I've had to RMA (nor have I ever had one that cost enough to worry about it, really), so it's never bothered me.
> That said, though, I am building myself extensions rather than doing a full sleeve.
> 
> 
> 
> I had one go due to a lightining strike and one go due to broken ground wires on a 24-pin extension. Corsair should have denied both (it was not their fault lighting hit my house,and it was not their fault my extension failed) but they went anead and did it for me.
Click to expand...

I think it's all about how you approach them as well. First impressions will make or break any transaction.


----------



## Axis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCCstudent*
> 
> Do you guys just accept loosing the warranty on your power supply as a cost of sleeving. I removed 1 small piece of heatshrink and Corsair warned me that they will RMA it this time "but not again"


YES.


----------



## PCCstudent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I think it's all about how you approach them as well. First impressions will make or break any transaction.


I knew the piece of heatshrink I removed could be a problem so I took a picture of it,sent them the pictures,fully accepted removing the heatshrink and they did not deny my claim over the heatshrink.The heat shrink one was the lightning strike one.The one that failed due to the extension failure caused a pin on the 8-pin(the cpu 8-pin) to melt,I did not have any personal contact with that RMA,all automaticly generated.At times it is to your advantage not to be able to run on about the issue.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCCstudent*
> 
> Do you guys just accept loosing the warranty on your power supply as a cost of sleeving. I removed 1 small piece of heatshrink and Corsair warned me that they will RMA it this time "but not again"


Yup, part of the game. My last one I did:


----------



## thomasrs

how did you remove the screws in your PSU I wasn´t able to?


----------



## Lutro0

If anyone has any questions on sleeving and the such I am running a live stream right now and sleeving, Come join @ http://www.livestream.com/Lutro0


----------



## liquidzoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> If anyone has any questions on sleeving and the such I am running a live stream right now and sleeving, Come join @ http://www.livestream.com/Lutro0


Wish I could, but awesome idea. Your videos really got me wanting to make/sleeve my own extensions.


----------



## (sic)

Can anyone tell me roughly how long it took their MDPC sleeve to come in? (Those of us that live in the states)

Ordered 12 days ago (8 business days). I'm not worried just curious.


----------



## WiSK

I'm glad to be corrected if I'm wrong, but I think it's like this. To keep shipping costs down for trans-atlantic orders, I believe that Nils sends deliveries as a "large letter" instead of as a package. Even when he adds insurance to the postage, the cost is much much lower than a package. The downside is that it gets lower priority and so I'm guessing the delivery could take up to 3 weeks to the States. If you're unsure about it, then you can send him an email, but I'd wait a couple more days if I were you


----------



## Axis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> Can anyone tell me roughly how long it took their MDPC sleeve to come in? (Those of us that live in the states)
> Ordered 12 days ago (8 business days). I'm not worried just curious.


Took mine about 3weeks to get here but it is WELL worth the wait.


----------



## PCCstudent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> And some of the normalness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the kind words bud, thats why I make the videos in the first place.
> And to answer everyone on which crimper I use, I use the MDPC crimper and it by far is the best I have ever used. Its worth every single penny.
> I also plan to make a video on how to use it and such after I get done moving and get back to making them.


I like saving money but I want to understand fully first.What is it that makes the cheaper crimp tool better than the Molex tool or is it not better,just cheaper.Some of those German and Swedish tools had removable dies so you could work with different size wires.It this feature not needed as one fixed set of tool dies is fine as they will work with any size wire you come across in power supply work?Is there a difference in die construction (as in if the crimp grabs the insulation also, or only the wire?)I think the problem with the bad crimps I have been getting is that the crimp did not grab the insulation at all.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCCstudent*
> 
> What is it that makes the cheaper crimp tool better than the Molex tool or is it not better,just cheaper.Some of those German and Swedish tools had removable dies so you could work with different size wires.It this feature not needed as one fixed set of tool dies is fine as they will work with any size wire you come across in power supply work?Is there a difference in die construction (as in if the crimp grabs the insulation also, or only the wire?)I think the problem with the bad crimps I have been getting is that the crimp did not grab the insulation at all.


The cheaper tools don't guarantee the perfect "bite" in the insulation. Some work well, others don't. Nils buys those tools wholesale, then personally adjusts and checks each tool by making 4-5 crimps. If the tool isn't able to be configured to make perfect crimps then he won't sell that tool. I'm not sure if he just dumps the bad ones, or just tries again with a new punch-die, or whatever. But he won't send you a bad one. Furthermore, if even after his testing and his advice with your technique, you are unable to make good crimps, then I'm pretty sure he will replace the tool. Having said that, the tool works best with quite a narrow range of wire sizes and ideally with the proper Molex pins which have longer tabs. Nils has warned that you can ruin his adjustment and even damage the punch geometry if you try to crimp with wrong type pins or oversized wires. When you follow the instructions, you will be happy with it, as all who bought it before you.

In comparison, the proper Molex tool will crimp all sizes even up to AWG 16 with over 3mm insulation. It will make overlap crimps if the insulation is too large. The manufacturing quality on the punch die is more exact, you can't achieve this for low cost. It also comes with a guide assembly with a wire stop which makes inserting the wires much easier. I'm sure there are other qualities about the official Molex tool which could justify the higher price, but I've never used it, so I'd be guessing.


----------



## jonnylaris

Hey guys need some urgent help. Ive managed to break a pin on my 8pin power cable. I put hardly any force on it, it happened when I was inserting the pin into the connector.

What are my options to fix it?

Dont have any spare pins or tools.


----------



## Lutro0




----------



## audioholic

If you just pulled out the pin you can just resolder. I broke 3 pins as well..but they are not repairable. Good luck sir:thumb:


----------



## audioholic

LutroO ..that just looks....AMAZING! I'm almost finished sleeving with paracord. How do I keep the 24 pin wires together like you have there?
Thanks:thumb:


----------



## kyismaster

If your breaking pins, The pins are either thin, or your doing it wrong.

I got my pins out with a staple... from a stapler.

If the pin gets pulled out of the wire, your pulling to hard/ bending it back and forwards too much.

Or

You maybe a body builder and are just simply to strong


----------



## jonnylaris

I dont have a soldering iron. Can i just use a new bit of cable with a working connector on it and wrap the wires together with electrical tape?


----------



## Axis24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Still looking good Lutro0,hoping to have some of my work for you to see very soon.


----------



## audioholic

If it were me I would do it right. Think of the money you have in that case...you could use electrical tape but soldering irons are relatively cheap.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> If it were me I would do it right. Think of the money you have in that case...you could use electrical tape but soldering irons are relatively cheap.


yep,

can go from 8 dollars to 12 dollars for a standard soldering iron.

sometimes comes with a solder spool too.


----------



## Lutro0

If anyone has any questions on sleeving and the such I am running a live stream right now and sleeving, Come join @ http://www.livestream.com/Lutro0

Also thanks for everyone who joined the earlier session.

Thanks for all that joined.


----------



## audioholic

Checked in but can't watch video from iPad. Lame sauce..


----------



## jonnylaris

Same. Has anyone got any tips for soldering the 2 wires together? Do I need to use heatshrink over the top? (Dont have any).


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonnylaris*
> 
> Same. Has anyone got any tips for soldering the 2 wires together? Do I need to use heatshrink over the top? (Dont have any).


http://www.overclock.net/t/1175308/sleeving-the-beginners-guide/0_80

there is a soldering guide in this thread if u scroll down a bit


----------



## BlackEdition

Made this in 5 minutes today with my band saw and wood laying around








Screws were too long so I used some feet on it so it would scratch my desk.
Thanks Lutro0!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackEdition*
> 
> Made this in 5 minutes today with my band saw and wood laying around
> 
> Screws were too long so I used some feet on it so it would scratch my desk.


Looks familiar.


----------



## BlackEdition

Thanks for the idea! Made sleeving soooo much quicker! Edited post to give you credit


----------



## MooMoo

Could you guys answer for my few questions?







I made thread for it http://www.overclock.net/t/1230940/lf-braided-extension-cables#post_16744303


----------



## Furion92

Hey guys, I'm planning my cable management but I still don't know what's the best way to route the SATA data cables








I don't know whether this is the right thread, at least my cables are going to be sleeved








Anyways...

I've made a professional sketch (^^):



It's the view from the right side of the case.

There are two options I take into consideration so far:

1) route them straight into the motherboard connectors
2) pass them to the bottom of the case, then to the psu cut-out and then upwards at the border of the motherboard-tray

My thoughts:

1) could look a bit messy, because the cables come from various directions (-> large visible area of the cables)
2) might be hard to do it tidily (especially with the pci-e cables in the same area)

I will definitely cut and solder them to the desired length.
I would also use some left or right angled cables (to make it a bit easier) but I couldn't find transparent/white ones...

Did anyone ever modify a SATA3 cable (round one) ?

What do you think? Any suggestions?


----------



## forever109

i wanna do a full tower all single braid black n red. combo..
i can't register at MDPC.
anywhere els i can buy these tools n cables?

thx


----------



## thomasrs

hey guys just wondering, im from Brazil been sleeving my PSU for about a week now and I was wondering what tools I can use for depining molex pins. What suggestions can you make? Ive sleeved most of my PSU and got to the Female Molex and I cant seem to find somehting that will work. Any ideas?


----------



## Lutro0

Well as everyone knows from time to time, I run a live cast, just to hang out answer questions and well just have a good time. Today and right now is one of those time! Come join @ http://www.livestream.com/Lutro0










Thanks to all that watched!


----------



## PCCstudent

I have been hearing about this MDPC site so I went and tried to register.I cannot register.Is the site down for some reason.With that black background and the text size and color I simply cannot make out what the screen says (OK the "Register " word is big enough) Here is where I am going,clicking on "Register" has no effect.
http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve.htm


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *forever109*
> 
> i wanna do a full tower all single braid black n red. combo..
> i can't register at MDPC.
> anywhere els i can buy these tools n cables?
> 
> thx


I bought all my tools from frozenCPU.com and they work perfectly.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *forever109*
> 
> i wanna do a full tower all single braid black n red. combo..
> i can't register at MDPC.
> anywhere els i can buy these tools n cables?
> thx


You cannot buy MDPC sleeve, nor the crimping tool, at any other online vendor. The Molex tool is available elsewhere.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1226831/guide-how-to-order-mdpc-during-short-open-times-time-zone-calc-cart-method
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thomasrs*
> 
> hey guys just wondering, im from Brazil been sleeving my PSU for about a week now and I was wondering what tools I can use for depining molex pins. What suggestions can you make? Ive sleeved most of my PSU and got to the Female Molex and I cant seem to find somehting that will work. Any ideas?


Get the official Molex depinning tool.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCCstudent*
> 
> I have been hearing about this MDPC site so I went and tried to register.I cannot register.Is the site down for some reason.With that black background and the text size and color I simply cannot make out what the screen says (OK the "Register " word is big enough) Here is where I am going,clicking on "Register" has no effect.
> http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve.htm


The site is only open for 5 minutes a day, it's explained in the text. Can't you zoom in with your browser?


----------



## PCCstudent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You cannot buy MDPC sleeve, nor the crimping tool, at any other online vendor. The Molex tool is available elsewhere.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1226831/guide-how-to-order-mdpc-during-short-open-times-time-zone-calc-cart-method
> Get the official Molex depinning tool.
> The site is only open for 5 minutes a day, it's explained in the text. Can't you zoom in with your browser?


Now that I know I will try.My eyes are really,really bad (I use a magnifying glass for all close work and I get that terrible dry eye real bad).My Doctor said I should use drops and I do but you can get so your eyes expect the moisture from the drops and start to produce even less moisture.Hey what part of the screen schould I be looking at (like top left,top right,and so on.Only open for 5 min a day,including registering new customers?Wow.

Just for your browsing pleasure take a look at the crimp tools on ebay.In my experience both the Germans and the Swedes make fine quality hand tools.but they are way expensive.


----------



## andrewbkillen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCCstudent*
> 
> Now that I know I will try.My eyes are really,really bad (I use a magnifying glass for all close work and I get that terrible dry eye real bad).My Doctor said I should use drops and I do but you can get so your eyes expect the moisture from the drops and start to produce even less moisture.Hey what part of the screen schould I be looking at (like top left,top right,and so on.Only open for 5 min a day,including registering new customers?Wow.
> Just for your browsing pleasure take a look at the crimp tools on ebay.In my experience both the Germans and the Swedes make fine quality hand tools.but they are way expensive.


"This is Nils: I have set myself maximum work-limits for each day. The exact opening time for the next day is always announced. ADVICE: You should first register and log in when you find the store open. Then you can fill your cart and the content will still exist the next time MDPC is opened - in case the store was closed too fast for you. Yes, limiting daily orders like this is unusual in today's "growth interested industry", but you know what MDPC stands for - and that will never change! NEXT OPENING TIME: Wednesday 20h00 MEZ German time-zone (Berlin time) - but only for a very short time."

Above is the text on MDPC's website. I figured it might be easier for you to read here since you have been able to get through other users posts. Sorry to hear about your eyes, let us know if there is any other way we can help


----------



## Lutro0

http://www.overclock.net/t/1226831/guide-how-to-order-mdpc-during-short-open-times-time-zone-calc-cart-method/0_20

That should help as well.


----------



## jonnylaris

My suggestion is to scrap the diagrams and just do it. Also no one is going to see that part of the case!!


----------



## Sir Beregond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1226831/guide-how-to-order-mdpc-during-short-open-times-time-zone-calc-cart-method/0_20
> That should help as well.


Thank you for that Lutro0. I kept being off by an hour and it was a bit frustrating


----------



## jonnylaris

Random question: Can I really paracord my entire psu without running into spacing problems with the hole cut for the cables to go through?

On my HX850, the hole is already kinda tight with just the default sleeve :/


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonnylaris*
> 
> Random question: Can I really paracord my entire psu without running into spacing problems with the hole cut for the cables to go through?
> On my HX850, the hole is already kinda tight with just the default sleeve :/


You should have no issue...I am currently working on my HX750. And it may be a tight fit but I think it will work out to be alright.


----------



## jonnylaris

How are you dealing with the 24 pin?

Mine has 2 pins that have 2 cables attached to them, paracord isn't big enough to fit both cables.


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonnylaris*
> 
> How are you dealing with the 24 pin?
> Mine has 2 pins that have 2 cables attached to them, paracord isn't big enough to fit both cables.


You have to cut those and splice them further down the line. There is a thread on this somewhere. I think its like cable sleeving beginners guide or something. Those are the ones I have not actually done yet.


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonnylaris*
> 
> How are you dealing with the 24 pin?
> Mine has 2 pins that have 2 cables attached to them, paracord isn't big enough to fit both cables.


if u look at my thread call "first time sleeving my PSU" it shows what i had to do for my double pins on my 24pin


----------



## BlazinJoker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCCstudent*
> 
> Now that I know I will try.My eyes are really,really bad (I use a magnifying glass for all close work and I get that terrible dry eye real bad).My Doctor said I should use drops and I do but you can get so your eyes expect the moisture from the drops and start to produce even less moisture.Hey what part of the screen schould I be looking at (like top left,top right,and so on.Only open for 5 min a day,including registering new customers?Wow.
> Just for your browsing pleasure take a look at the crimp tools on ebay.In my experience both the Germans and the Swedes make fine quality hand tools.but they are way expensive.


I've heard of two tips to keep from dry eyes. 1. Continuously blink, when on the computer some people blink less often when they are focused. 2. Wear glasses of some sort, as they slightly help in keeping the moisture on your eyes rather than evaporating into the air.


----------



## thomasrs

hey guys I was finally able to find a tool for my molex connector thing is that I have a non modular PSU and I have several molex connectors attached. How do I go abou sleeving all of them? Do I have to cut them and then recrimp them? If so how do I do that?


----------



## WiSK

You only need to cut+rewire+crimp if you want different wire lengths or different colour of wire.
Are you asking how to get the sleeve all the way into the PSU? Or something else?


----------



## WarIV

Nice thread


----------



## thomasrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You only need to cut+rewire+crimp if you want different wire lengths or different colour of wire.
> Are you asking how to get the sleeve all the way into the PSU? Or something else?


Yes I want to sleeve all 4 of the Molex conectors that go all the way into my PSU.They are all conected to each other. I see no other way to do that other than to cut the wires and recrimp them. What do you suggest?

They are all connected to each other like so:



Ideas?


----------



## Imrac

If you are using non-paracord sleeving, you can just bend the pin back onto the wire and work the sleeving over it. Paracord might be too small to get over both wires and the pin.


----------



## thomasrs

Im using paracord sleeving though and have already done the first set of of molex wires which are at the end, after that then you get into those types of connections. I bought a tool for recrimping. Should I go down that route?


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thomasrs*
> 
> Im using paracord sleeving though and have already done the first set of of molex wires which are at the end, after that then you get into those types of connections. I bought a tool for recrimping. Should I go down that route?


Yup, that is the only way. If you are think it through, you should only have to re-pin 2 of them


----------



## thomasrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Yup, that is the only way. If you are think it through, you should only have to re-pin 2 of them


Sorry I don´t understand. I have 4 of those connection how will I only have to re-pin two of them?

This is what I mean by how they are set up:



So how can I get it sleeved? Only way is cutting then re crimping right?


----------



## Imrac

Cut were the breaks are: and sleeve each matching color segment at a time.


----------



## longroadtrip

Not done sleeving yet, but thought I would post what I have...










Still have to finish laying out the cabling fully, but it is getting there.


----------



## solsamurai

That looks great!


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thomasrs*
> 
> Yes I want to sleeve all 4 of the Molex conectors that go all the way into my PSU.They are all conected to each other. I see no other way to do that other than to cut the wires and recrimp them. What do you suggest?
> They are all connected to each other like so:
> 
> Ideas?


Don't CUT it! Just deattach it from the connector and you are fine to go. There is tools for molex connectors to get wires out.


----------



## thomasrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> Don't CUT it! Just deattach it from the connector and you are fine to go. There is tools for molex connectors to get wires out.


IF I dont cut it how will I get the sleeving through? I already cut it anyways... It worked better that way but I lost two molex conectors which is fine I don´t use that many anyways. Thanks for the help!


----------



## BIackout

Okay guys, I need some good OCN advice here,









I originally bought the OCZ ZX 1000W fully modular PSU about a month ago.
My intent was to sleeve the entire thing and make it look magical. (MDPC-x all WHITE BABY)
HOWEVER, after reading a lot of this thread, I see that there is a big issue with this PSU having those little Capacitors in every cable.








This simply won't do. I don't want to mess with those capacitors at all.
I have decided to return the PSU next week sometime.









Now, where I need help is choosing the right PSU that meets these criteria:

No capacitors in any of the cables.
anywhere from 850-1000W, somewhat efficient, and preferably fully modular.
Preferably 1-1 wire mapping, no splices, no confusion!








Please help me pick a good one!


----------



## BlazinJoker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BIackout*
> 
> Okay guys, I need some good OCN advice here,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I originally bought the OCZ ZX 1000W fully modular PSU about a month ago.
> My intent was to sleeve the entire thing and make it look magical. (MDPC-x all WHITE BABY)
> HOWEVER, after reading a lot of this thread, I see that there is a big issue with this PSU having those little Capacitors in every cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simply won't do. I don't want to mess with those capacitors at all.
> I have decided to return the PSU next week sometime.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, where I need help is choosing the right PSU that meets these criteria:
> 
> No capacitors in any of the cables.
> anywhere from 850-1000W, somewhat efficient, and preferably fully modular.
> Preferably 1-1 wire mapping, no splices, no confusion!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please help me pick a good one!


Hmm... I believe this one was a good choice when it was discussed here last http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817256067


----------



## BIackout

That one seems to have caps in the PCIE cables:

This is from the feature list on newegg for that PSU.

MULTI-GPU SUPPORTED
Coming with 2x 8/6-Pin and 2x 6-Pin PCI-E connectors, the SilverStone Strider Gold ST85F-G allows you to build CrossFireX or SLI gaming systems. In addition, 2200uF capacitors are attached to PCI-E connectors to reduce electrical whine/buzz associated with high performance graphics card's dynamic loading changes. This design also helps to maintain better voltage stability and improve ripple & noise performance.

Anyone else have any suggestions?


----------



## BlazinJoker

Must've been thinking of the last gen of striders


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BIackout*
> 
> That one seems to have caps in the PCIE cables:
> This is from the feature list on newegg for that PSU.
> MULTI-GPU SUPPORTED
> Coming with 2x 8/6-Pin and 2x 6-Pin PCI-E connectors, the SilverStone Strider Gold ST85F-G allows you to build CrossFireX or SLI gaming systems. In addition, 2200uF capacitors are attached to PCI-E connectors to reduce electrical whine/buzz associated with high performance graphics card's dynamic loading changes. This design also helps to maintain better voltage stability and improve ripple & noise performance.
> Anyone else have any suggestions?


You can pick this up..no capacitors and is a direct fit for most Silverstone Strider series PSUs...

Otherwise, it is really easy to make cables.


----------



## BIackout

When you say it is really easy to make cables, do you mean that the capacitors don't really affect the difficulty of a sleeving job? Can I just remove them and sleeve it like normal?


----------



## longroadtrip

In most cases they can be removed with little or no performance difference. Some people prefer to keep them stock for warranty reasons if they have to send the PSU back, that is the reason I suggested making new cables or buying the PP05. If you aren't worried about warranty, then just remove them.


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thomasrs*
> 
> IF I dont cut it how will I get the sleeving through? I already cut it anyways... It worked better that way but I lost two molex conectors which is fine I don´t use that many anyways. Thanks for the help!


By deattaching all the connectors? ...









I wouldn't cut those kind of wires, because its powering your computer and theres possibilities of somekind of failure, which could lead to damaging the parts.

This would be nice for you http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/media/img/Molex8.jpg

but you already cut them, but for future if you do it again


----------



## BIackout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> In most cases they can be removed with little or no performance difference. Some people prefer to keep them stock for warranty reasons if they have to send the PSU back, that is the reason I suggested making new cables or buying the PP05. If you aren't worried about warranty, then just remove them.


If this is the case, then do I even need to return my OCZ ZX 1000W? If I can simply remove the caps altogether, then that should be my only issue right?


----------



## longroadtrip

I can't make that decision for you, but, I have offered the viable options..(although, for some reason I thought you had a strider, if not the PP05 won't work.) If it was me, I would just make the cables, that way I can make sure the cables are exactly the lengths that I want and I keep the stock cables for any RMA that may be needed in the future. To answer your question though, yes you can just remove the caps.


----------



## BIackout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> I can't make that decision for you, but, I have offered the viable options..(although, for some reason I thought you had a strider, if not the PP05 won't work.) If it was me, I would just make the cables, that way I can make sure the cables are exactly the lengths that I want and I keep the stock cables for any RMA that may be needed in the future. To answer your question though, yes you can just remove the caps.


Okay, I like the idea of making new wires, however:

If I make my own wires and everything, how do I know the correct wire mapping if I can't take apart the current cables for fear of voiding the warranty. Is there anywhere on the webz that has a pinout diagram for this specific PSU? Just looking at it, I see multiple wires going into single slots of the connectors. (leads me to believe that this is not a 1-1 cable job)


----------



## longroadtrip

Silverstone includes a pinout in the instruction manual...did a quick google search for OCZ Pinout and came up with several results. You can also ask at the OCZ help forums and get official information from them.

Here is the 24 pin for the ZX 850:

If it is anything like this, I'd go buy a Strider...


----------



## BIackout

Thanks, I found that one earlier as well! Looks like I'm gonna be sticking to the OCZ PSU for now, Hopefully removing the caps, and the paired wires won't give me too much touble


----------



## longroadtrip

Happy to help!







Make sure you post pictures when you are done. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out!


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imrac*
> 
> Cut were the breaks are: and sleeve each matching color segment at a time.


Thanks Imrac, you win a cookie


----------



## liquidzoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Silverstone includes a pinout in the instruction manual...did a quick google search for OCZ Pinout and came up with several results. You can also ask at the OCZ help forums and get official information from them.
> Here is the 24 pin for the ZX 850:
> If it is anything like this, I'd go buy a Strider...


Along these lines...

If someone is just making extensions, not full replacement wires, would it just be a 1 to 1 straight wire job?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquidzoo*
> 
> Along these lines...
> If someone is just making extensions, not full replacement wires, would it just be a 1 to 1 straight wire job?


Yup!


----------



## thomasrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> By deattaching all the connectors? ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't cut those kind of wires, because its powering your computer and theres possibilities of somekind of failure, which could lead to damaging the parts.
> This would be nice for you http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/media/img/Molex8.jpg
> but you already cut them, but for future if you do it again


Yeah I tried without cutting them. The problem is sleeving over the connectors with paracord. Pretty impossible since I can´t get the paracord through so I had to cut it in order to sleeve it. I used a molex remover tool I mad out of an antenna I got form a store. Thanks for the help man!


----------



## liquidzoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Yup!


That's a relief. I got worried for a second.


----------



## Davayy

why can i not get my GT fan pins back into the connector.....and i've just broken the prong of one of the pins. ffs


----------



## skitzab1

hay guys this is strangely fun this is some pics of my first atempt

cheap sleaving tell me what us think


----------



## kyismaster

nice, but i'd prefer black connectors


----------



## Sevada88

Very nice guide, subbed!


----------



## thomasrs

Electric Build Log:

Okay guys after about 1 and half of sleeving I finally finishe dmy PSU and thought I´D upload some pictures.

It was hard and ardous work I had a couple of hick ups and wasn´t able to to open my psu the screws just wouldn´t let up so I had to just sleeve from the outside no matter anyways you can´t really see any of the cables so I´m fine with the finished job.

I ended up not sleeving my sata cables because I was just frustrated with it. Maybe when I have more patience in a few months ill rip it out again and finish sleeving the sata cables.

Well, my fingers have been hurting consitantly for the last couple of days and working and sleeving is hard.

I decided to take the easy route and not heat shrink it would´ve taken me another week to finish and frankly I was rather tired of it.









But here we go!

Thats my work station!


----------



## thomasrs

Finished 24 Pin



Decided to heat shrink only the molex I had no patience for the other ones maybe later ill go back and heat shrink them



Booted up and no black clouds!! I was so scared during the whole process


----------



## thomasrs

A few more pictures. Please rate!!





What do you guys think for a first time sleever?













My lovely Girlfriend held up the case door to take this pic! She helped me a lot throughout.

In the future Im going to be heat shrinking the entire PSU

I wasn´t able to open it however


----------



## thomasrs




----------



## thomasrs

Unfortuanetly wasnt able to get my PSU open so I had to do this crappy **** to my PSU but I powered through to ge tthe sleeving done. ANy ideas on how to open PSU??

Thanks everyone please be critial of my work it is important I learn and thats what Im here for. Thanks to Lutroo and to my lovely Girlfriend I was able to finish this !


----------



## thomasrs

I coudnt help myself I took so many pictures I decided to just post some more up!


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thomasrs*
> 
> I coudnt help myself I took so many pictures I decided to just post some more up!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good! I love that pic. Makes the fan look HUGE!


----------



## BlazinJoker

It looks good








The sleeving could be tighter I think, but otherwise you did great!


----------



## essanbee

I like the blue/white/black colors together. But you could have included at least one lovely girlfriend pic...


----------



## R4MP4G3

When paracord is sleeved nicely without heatshrink, I think it looks sooo much nicer than mdpc-x. Its not to say that I don't like mdpc, but the fact that its fabric makes it look really nice and clean.


----------



## thomasrs

Thanks man! It doesnt look tight because I really pulled it out so the sleevingc an show through but other than that I pulled on the sleving the tighest it could go... Any ideas?


----------



## Hartk1213

ok so i just finished the sleeving...well as much as i can i ran out of paracord i need to buy some more...anyways while i was home on spring break i made myself a anti-tangle tool like the one that robertts25 showed how to make

...i dont think i made it correctly because i barely fit through the paracord and the wire wouldnt stay in the end...

anyways i found another way to do it, if you take this molex pin removal tool and unscrew the bigger of the two ends you get this

the wire fits just perfectly

the little tube also is just the right size to fit right through the paracord with ease

now on to the sleeving
here is my 1/2 way finished EPS 8-Pin Connector

finshed 8-Pin

one of the SATA Power Connectors i was only able to one since i ran out of paracord

now here is the part that really had me worried when i put the whole pc back together and tried booting it up i got a spilt second of power and then it would shut off







so i thought it was maybe the soldered parts of the 24pin so instead of trying again and risk the chance of damaging the MOBO and everything else i took the PSU out and tried jumping it with a paperclip and it worked







... then i figured it was shorting somewhere and sure enough somehow an extra MOBO screw got behind the the MOBO and was shorting it out and its all good now...so here are the final pics of the PC with and without side panel


----------



## Sir Beregond

Looking really nice!


----------



## kj1060

Does anyone have any suggestions for removing the pins from an AX 1200? I spent 2 hours and only got 1 pin out and decided to stop before something got ruined. Thanks for the help.


----------



## BlazinJoker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kj1060*
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions for removing the pins from an AX 1200? I spent 2 hours and only got 1 pin out and decided to stop before something got ruined. Thanks for the help.


Maybe you could try using your heatgun if you have one and soften up the connecter, I think Lutro0 said that sometimes the pins get stuck into the connectors. Hope this helps


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> Maybe you could try using your heatgun if you have one and soften up the connecter, I think Lutro0 said that sometimes the pins get stuck into the connectors. Hope this helps


I'm not sure that this is such a safe suggestion. Nylon melts already at 250C, while the "low" setting on a heatgun is usually over 300C. It's just going to make things worse, if it doesn't destroy the connector entirely.


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I'm not sure that this is such a safe suggestion. Nylon melts already at 250C, while the "low" setting on a heatgun is usually over 300C. It's just going to make things worse, if it doesn't destroy the connector entirely.


You dont have to keep the heatgun all day there. Use it little bit.


----------



## Arrant

I feel like posting a picture...


ahh, feel so much better now


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I'm not sure that this is such a safe suggestion. Nylon melts already at 250C, while the "low" setting on a heatgun is usually over 300C. It's just going to make things worse, if it doesn't destroy the connector entirely.


I have never recommended it personally, but I do know tons of people here have tried it (with care as what wisk said is totally true you will melt it) However most of the time the problem lies in the tool, the users method, or not pulling hard enough as some pins are dug into the plastic because of them being aftermarket pins.

The proper method will always be "push the wire up and then insert the depinning tool (only the original molex tool works on everything) and then pull once you are sure your depinning tool is depressing the clasps"


----------



## kj1060

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I have never recommended it personally, but I do know tons of people here have tried it (with care as what wisk said is totally true you will melt it) However most of the time the problem lies in the tool, the users method, or not pulling hard enough as some pins are dug into the plastic because of them being aftermarket pins.
> The proper method will always be "push the wire up and then insert the depinning tool (only the original molex tool works on everything) and then pull once you are sure your depinning tool is depressing the clasps"


Thanks for all the help guys. I will try again tonight. I am using the two pronged tool from the Sunbeam PSU Modding Kit.


----------



## Sir Beregond

While awaiting my sleeving to arrive, I have been practicing depinning my AX1200, and I have found it for the most part to be extremely easy with this tool: Original Molex Pin Extraction Tool

Edit: I must be "posting links" challenged. How are you guys compressing it from the link to the words?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kj1060*
> 
> Thanks for all the help guys. I will try again tonight. I am using the two pronged tool from the Sunbeam PSU Modding Kit.


Gah, yea that would be your issue right there, I have heard nothing good from that sunbeam kit. Most of what I hear is that the prongs are not long enough. What the last person just posted is the original molex tool and by far its the best tool out there right now.


----------



## thomasrs

Honestly, I just made up my tools with a smashed up paper clip you can use whatever is thin enough to fit through. Ill post some picutres I re-did some of the wires and organized my case better. Any ideas on how to sleevecase front panel cables of a nzxt phantom? Those things are so small...


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Beregond*
> 
> -SNIP-
> 
> Edit: I must be "posting links" challenged. How are you guys compressing it from the link to the words?


You type it out like this
(URL=type URL here)type word u want linked here(/URL)

But use [ ] instead of ( )


----------



## BlazinJoker

Or just select a word for the hyperlink to go to and click the hyperlink button that is located on your toolbar for fonts, alignment, etc.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Thanks, that helps a lot.


----------



## kj1060

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Gah, yea that would be your issue right there, I have heard nothing good from that sunbeam kit. Most of what I hear is that the prongs are not long enough. What the last person just posted is the original molex tool and by far its the best tool out there right now.


Thanks for the help, ordered the other one from frozencpu hopefully it will be here soon.


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arrant*
> 
> I feel like posting a picture...
> 
> ahh, feel so much better now


Are you going to make camo case and hide your computer to jungle?


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arrant*
> 
> I feel like posting a picture...
> 
> ahh, feel so much better now


Looks good. Reminds me of the seat cover my Dad had in his truck in the 80's.


----------



## Arrant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> Are you going to make camo case and hide your computer to jungle?


What the hell else what I do with it?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Looks good. Reminds me of the seat cover my Dad had in his truck in the 80's.


Haha, thank you. The greatest compliment a man can receive!


----------



## jonnylaris

Is it ok to use a cheap 24 pin extension cable with the Corsair HX850?

I was wondering because of the fact that it has a wierd design with some pins having 2 cables attached and one of the pins not being present.

Also, is there a way to remove male pins without an extraction tool?

Ive been having great success with staples for releasing the female ones but I'm stumped at how to do it for the male ones.

Cheers.


----------



## jonnylaris

I'm really stuck here, can't work out how to get these male pins out for the life of me. Anyone any ideas?

Edit: Got it afterall, staples ftw!


----------



## Imrac

The Molex ones?

If so, use a Pen with the ink cartridge removed. I found the PaperMate Comfort works well.


----------



## aesthetics1

Still have to do my PCI-Express, and I need to order some black connectors (Fans on the H100 block, 8-pin to motherboard) but I'm happy with the look so far.

I might in the future go from a straight 24-pin to a 24-pin extension just so the wires don't have to cross over each other - they don't fall as elegantly as I would like them to.


----------



## PappaSmurfsHarem

Some of my goodies from Mouser and Newark came today







Pics below!

Once my MDPC crimper comes in I can't start fully sleeving my Seasonic X750 with my own wires and connectors!


Spoiler: Mouser



CPU 8 Pin


10-Pin (Part 1 of PSU side 24 Pin) My 16 Pin connector is on backorder but should be here by the end of the week!


6 Pin (PSU SIDE of Sata Power and 4-Pin Molex connectors) THIS IS NOT THE SAME AS PCIe 6 pin.

This is PCIe 6 pin (from molex's database) Notice the Curve, Curve, Flat/Flat,Curve,Curve of the connector

This is the 6-pin for Sata and Molex power on PSU side (from molex's database) notice the Curve, Flat, Flat/Flat, Curve, Curve of the connector

They are two separate part numbers.

Straight 24 pin


12-pin connector For PSU side (these are for each set of 2 PCIe Connectors. two 12pin PSU side = four 6-pin PCIe


240ct Molex Mini Fit Jr pins 39-00-0038






Spoiler: Newark



2x NTE 100ft Spools
Specs: 18 AWG (Stranded 16x30 AWG) UL1007 300V 90° - 105°


Almost Exactly 2mm


This should be perfect for the MDPC crimp tool



/edit

I also received my Performance PCs 6+2 pin and sata power and 4-pin connectors.

I regret buying the performance PC 6+2 pins now as they are sub par quality to the molex manufactured connectors.

Performance PC 6pin connector


Look around the holes in the connector how "chunky" and undefined they are
Now lets look at the Molex.

Molex Made 6 Pin


You can see very defined grooves and lines here, much higher quality, and whats even worse. It is actually cheaper to buy the molex brand. at $0.59/pc vs $1.00/pc from Perf-PC, Perf-PC also has much higher shipping costs.

Note the Molex 6 pin is the same as the one in the spoilers above. It is not a PCIe 6 pin, this is just to compare the quality of the molex connectors as all the molex made connectors look like this.

I didn't purchase the Molex 6 pin PCIe's because they do not have a 2pin addon , They make PCIe 8 pin connectors but I wanted the flexibility of having both without rewiring.


----------



## BIackout

Hey all,
I know there are some people out there with the OCZ 850,1000,1250W PSU that want to sleeve them too...
Only problem is that every single cable bundle has those annoying capacitors and also the wiring is so far off 1:1 its not even funny








My solution to this problem is to make all new wires from scratch. If this is also your solution then the following might be useful to you:

This is the way the factory cables come, they are so far off 1:1 i can't even believe it... (don't mind pin 20 not being used, that's normal)



After talking to the OCZ tech support, they provided me with this lovely pin layout for their PSU's



And here is the standard pin layout for a 24 pin ATX plug on the motherboard side of things (colors are not important, just the listed functions.)



So... after all that, I decided to clean up the way this thing is routed and this is the best I can do between the OCZ ZX series PSU's and a normal ATX MoBo.



This is how I will be wiring my OCZ PSU, hopefully this helps answer some of the questions people have about these power supplies. Enjoy









Also, regarding the different guages of wire this PSU has coming out of it, this is what OCZ had to say:
Quote:


> The drive cables (SATA and Peripheral) use 18AWG wires. The PCIE and CPU power cables use 16AWG wires.
> 
> The 24-pin cable uses a variety of different size wires.
> 
> The green, grey, blue, and brown are the thinnest and look to be about 22AWG.
> The purple wire is 18AWG. This is a single wire (+5VSB).
> The others (black, yellow, orange, and other purple) are all 16AWG.
> 
> I think it's safe (easiest) to just go with 16AWG all around.


Hope this is helpful to someone


----------



## kzim9

Any updates on where the best place to get sleeving? I live in Canada....

Looking for black and blue......


----------



## PappaSmurfsHarem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzim9*
> 
> Any updates on where the best place to get sleeving? I live in Canada....
> Looking for black and blue......


MDPC-X is and always will be the best place for quality sleeve


----------



## mordocai rp

how much paracord/mdpc sleeving would I need to sleeve an xfx 750w xxx edition psu?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207016
people say the cables are ~same length as corsair 650w


----------



## PappaSmurfsHarem

How much do you want to sleeve? what cables?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> how much paracord/mdpc sleeving would I need to sleeve an xfx 750w xxx edition psu?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207016
> people say the cables are ~same length as corsair 650w


Quote:


> Sleeving - How much sleeving will I need?
> The best and really only way is to measure them yourself or look at the datasheet for your psu. This can be found on the website for the manufactor of your psu or a review site as well.
> 
> Now you just have to look at the cable length and then add them up....
> 
> Let's say you have a 24pin cable and the datasheet says it is 520mm long, so:
> 24x520mm = 12,480 millimeters = 12.48 meters
> 
> So for just the 24pin you will need 12.48 meters of sleeving.
> 
> And then you continue to do the same for the eps, sata, molex, and pcie cables. (not to mention any other things/cables you want sleeved)
> Once you have everything added up you will want to add 10-20% more sleeve to it just in case you mess something up or perhaps forget about something.
> 
> Heatshrink - How much heatshrink will I need?
> Most places sell precut HS now, so that makes it as simple as adding it up with the rule that you will need 2x pieces of HS per wire.
> 
> So you add up all of the wires of your cables/things that you will be sleeving.
> I.E. a 24pin cable has 24 pins. So you will need 48 cuts of HS for just the 24pin.
> 
> I always add 50-100 more pieces no matter what so you don't have to settle for a messed up look, even more so if this is your first time sleeving.
> If you are using tubing that is not precut, I believe the rule of thumb is to find out how much 20% of your total order of sleeving will be and order that amount in HS.
> But again I would choose to try and do the math, for example is you are using 15mm cuts of hs, you would need 30mm of hs per wire, and if you are using 20mm cuts you would need 40mm per wire and so on. Remember to add the equivalent of 50 to 100 extra pieces so you can get a little extra.


Taken from my sleeving faq (link is in my sig under video sleeving guides, the faq is on the third post.)


----------



## PappaSmurfsHarem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> - snip
> 
> 
> 
> Taken from my sleeving faq (link is in my sig under video sleeving guides, the faq is on the third post.)
Click to expand...

Another thing to keep in mind if you are going 60m+ of sleeving you might just consider buying the "Dumping Pack" 100m (~330 ft)

it is$.017 a foot as opposed to $0.40 a foot (US dollars of course).

So if you buy 60m then your spend the same amount and get nearly double. Only downside is it is 1 color.

His store his open now FYI


----------



## Furion92

@BIackout: Hey buddy, I read that you have an OCZ ZX series psu? Would you still be able to return it? If yes, I'd really recommend doing so









I had the 850W model and it's really really really really not the best choice when it comes to sleeving.
If there was only a single cap on the pci-e cable, then I'd totally agree removing it.
But as you're aware there are *5* of them only on the 24pin cable. I don't think they'd have reached 80+ gold efficiency without the help of those capacitors. I'm not even sure whether the ripple and noise figures would still be within atx specifications..........

After lots of research I can only recommend you the following power supplies so far:

- Silverstone Strider series (older ones without caps as well as the newer ones where you can cut them off)
- Corsair AX1200 (might have a very messy pinout, I'm not sure about this, but at least it has 24 pins psu-sided)
- Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid series (I'm working with one at the moment and the psu is great so far)
- Ultra X4 (thanks to Lutro0 for the recommendation







)

If you're going ahead sleeving the OCZ unit anyway, please make sure not to buy wire with a bigger outer diameter than ~2.3mm. Otherwise you won't be able to crimp them properly and heatshrinked cables might be too thick to insert into a connector. Usually when making your own wires, you're going to look for AWG18 wire with thin insulation for the 24/8/6/4pin motherboard, cpu and gpu power cables. For fan cables and such stuff you can buy 22AWG wire.


----------



## BIackout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> @BIackout: Hey buddy, I read that you have an OCZ ZX series psu? Would you still be able to return it? If yes, I'd really recommend doing so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had the 850W model and it's really really really really not the best choice when it comes to sleeving.
> If there was only a single cap on the pci-e cable, then I'd totally agree removing it.
> But as you're aware there are *5* of them only on the 24pin cable. I don't think they'd have reached 80+ gold efficiency without the help of those capacitors. I'm not even sure whether the ripple and noise figures would still be within atx specifications..........
> After lots of research I can only recommend you the following power supplies so far:
> - Silverstone Strider series (older ones without caps as well as the newer ones where you can cut them off)
> - Corsair AX1200 (might have a very messy pinout, I'm not sure about this, but at least it has 24 pins psu-sided)
> - Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid series (I'm working with one at the moment and the psu is great so far)
> - Ultra X4 (thanks to Lutro0 for the recommendation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> If you're going ahead sleeving the OCZ unit anyway, please make sure not to buy wire with a bigger outer diameter than ~2.3mm. Otherwise you won't be able to crimp them properly and heatshrinked cables might be too thick to insert into a connector. Usually when making your own wires, you're going to look for AWG18 wire with thin insulation for the 24/8/6/4pin motherboard, cpu and gpu power cables. For fan cables and such stuff you can buy 22AWG wire.


Thanks for the info, however my window to return the power supply has past. I am gonna rewire the whole thing with new separate wires and everything. That way I will not void the warranty via any physical change to the unit itself.

Side Note: I asked OCZ if removing the capacitors would affect the efficiency of the unit and this was their response:
Quote:


> The capacitors should have no (or very little) effect on the efficiency rating, but I do recommend you use them.
> 
> The capacitors help smooth out any voltage drops and reduce ripple. The PSU and system should work fine without them, but the benefit they add is worth the extra trouble.


----------



## Lutro0

It has come time again for Lutro0 to answer any questions you might have about sleeving while I work, so if you would like to join and ask some questions or just hang please do! @ http://www.livestream.com/lutro0

Thanks for everyone who joined!


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> It has come time again for Lutro0 to answer any questions you might have about sleeving while I work, so if you would like to join and ask some questions or just hang please do! @ http://www.livestream.com/lutro0


I'm actually catching this one


----------



## BiohazardRaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duceanahalf*
> 
> apologies for the pictures, used my phone with poor lighting conditions. this was done in "black widow" (black and red) paracord.


Can i haz ze cable <3 XD wish i had such a power cable for my computer







if i had a supercomputer that i wish to have <3







would fit the red and black theme perfectly


----------



## Lutro0

And once again!

It has come time again for Lutro0 to answer any questions you might have about sleeving while I work, so if you would like to join and ask some questions or just hang please do! @ http://www.livestream.com/lutro0


----------



## longroadtrip

deleted...


----------



## Blackwolf41

Hello Everyboby I have seen allot of Good Stuff in Here and I wanted to ask some Question I hope you can Help me out.I would like to make some4,6,8 and 24 pin cable extentions, but I am not clear on the Gauge size of the wires [ 18 AWG 22 AWG 26 AWG] for them is there a Guide on this. Iknow I could buy the extensions and resleeve them but that might cost me more in the long run. My other Question is were would be a Good place to purchase all of the connections, I did some research and found them here http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=60_174I would love to get them from Lutro or MDPC. but I live in Texas and could not afford the Shipping . This is just a Hobbie to pass the Time, any advice on were to purchase the pins and connection and the gauge of the wires would be Greatful . Thank You All for youre Time


----------



## mordocai rp

hey guys for paracord would these do good? size wise and stuff? I prefer the looks of paracord to mdpc but to each their own:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HQ2VWM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&m=A3C2W9NLZ7EXHL
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HWGFEE/ref=gno_cart_title_1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HWGFBM/ref=gno_cart_title_2

so is the sizing good on those? for individually sleeved wires btw


----------



## PappaSmurfsHarem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackwolf41*
> 
> Hello Everyboby I have seen allot of Good Stuff in Here and I wanted to ask some Question I hope you can Help me out.I would like to make some4,6,8 and 24 pin cable extentions, but I am not clear on the Gauge size of the wires [ 18 AWG 22 AWG 26 AWG] for them is there a Guide on this. Iknow I could buy the extensions and resleeve them but that might cost me more in the long run. My other Question is were would be a Good place to purchase all of the connections, I did some research and found them here http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=60_174I would love to get them from Lutro or MDPC. but I live in Texas and could not afford the Shipping . This is just a Hobbie to pass the Time, any advice on were to purchase the pins and connection and the gauge of the wires would be Greatful . Thank You All for youre Time


Lutro0 told me to use 18AWG for everything, so that is what I'm doing. Most PSU's are 18 AWG for the most part. To be more specific 18 AWG (16 strands of 30 AWG wire) Most places will show it something like 18 AWG stranded 16x30awg. and I believe PVC insulation is prefered. That I may be wrong on though.

Are you saying you would love to buy just the connectors from Lutro0 or MDPC? They do not sell those. Well maybe Lutro0 could but I would doubt it. Where can you not afford shipping from? MDPC? Lutro0? Performance PCs? MDPC and Lutro0s shipping are cheap, Performance PC's is overpriced IMHO


----------



## Blackwolf41

Im Sorry I meant to say I would Love to Buy the extension from LotroO, but I figured the Shipping would Kill me, Besides I just wanted to try it myself. And I had look into getting some Sleeving and connection from MDPC but the Shipping alone was around $ 30 US Dollors but dont Qoute me on that .My Goal is to Sleeve some Extension cables with Parachord , And Im trying to figure out If it would be Cheaper to make the extension cable myself or have them already Built for me, and then Sleeve them with the Parachord myself. I have used the Nxzt extension cable and I thought they were Great,and I have also Played around with the Parachord and found it to be enjoyable to. I looking to Sleeve some extension cables for my Son inlaw and a Freind for Christmas, instead of having to Sleeve all of the cable on there Power Supply


----------



## PappaSmurfsHarem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackwolf41*
> 
> Im Sorry I meant to say I would Love to Buy the extension from LotroO, but I figured the Shipping would Kill me, Besides I just wanted to try it myself. And I had look into getting some Sleeving and connection from MDPC but the Shipping alone was around $ 30 US Dollors but dont Qoute me on that .My Goal is to Sleeve some Extension cables with Parachord , And Im trying to figure out If it would be Cheaper to make the extension cable myself or have them already Built for me, and then Sleeve them with the Parachord myself. I have used the Nxzt extension cable and I thought they were Great,and I have also Played around with the Parachord and found it to be enjoyable to. I looking to Sleeve some extension cables for my Son inlaw and a Freind for Christmas, instead of having to Sleeve all of the cable on there Power Supply


Lutro0 uses flat rate boxes I believe. It is only $10 shipping
Quote:


> Paracord Sleeve
> A custom 12inch 24pin Cable in unlimited colors: $35.00
> A custom 12inch 8pin CPU Power Cable in unlimited colors: $19.00
> A custom 12inch 4pin CPU Power Cable in unlimited colors: $10.00
> A custom 12inch 8pin PCI-E VGA Cable in unlimited colors: $19.00
> A custom 12inch 6pin PCI-E VGA Cable in unlimited colors: $19.00
> A custom 12inch 6+2pin PCI-E VGA Cable in unlimited colors: $19.00
> A custom length - Molex 4pin to Molex 4pin Cable in unlimited colors: $20.00
> A custom length - Single Sata Power Cable (extended by Molex 4pin or OEM) in unlimited colors: $20.00
> 
> If you want a custom length for the cables just add $4.00 per cable.
> 
> MDPC Sleeve
> A custom 12inch 24pin Cable in unlimited colors: $60.00
> A custom 12inch 8pin CPU Power Cable in unlimited colors: $21.00
> A custom 12inch 4pin CPU Power Cable in unlimited colors: $15.00
> A custom 12inch 8pin PCI-E VGA Cable in unlimited colors: $21.00
> A custom 12inch 6pin PCI-E VGA Cable in unlimited colors: $21.00
> A custom 12inch 6+2pin PCI-E VGA Cable in unlimited colors: $21.00
> A custom Sata Data Cable in one color: $10.00
> A custom length - Molex 4pin to Molex 4pin Cable in unlimited colors: $20.00
> A custom length - Single Sata Power Cable (extended by Molex 4pin or OEM) in unlimited colors: $20.00
> 
> If you want a custom length for the cables just add $4.00 per cable
> 
> Shipping for all cables is a flat fee of $10.00 and I will send them with tracking via USPS Priority Mail.


MDPC's shipping for my most recent order was 7.90 euro AKA ~$11-12

Creating you own cables and sleeving CAN get "expensive" Not only do you need the sleeving, but you need the wire, pins (male & female) and the connectors. Then the tools like a good crimper wire cutter and stripper. But it is fun and it is another thing entirely to have that sense of accomplishment. However lutro0's prices are reasonable.


----------



## Lutro0

Here is some heatshrinkless with kobra hd for a job from Nvidia, the double wires take an incredibly long time. I would only suggest the use of this sleeving if you have minimal space in your case, as it does not cover well and is a pain to work with. The pros of it is, its easy to fit into the connector and as mentioned takes up little room, but leaves you with a skinny look.

The color is off due to lighting.

Also about my prices and shipping - I ship internationally for about 16 flat rate, but that depends on how much you order. My prices are subject to change when my shop opens but not by much.


----------



## kazenagi

Has anyone done heatshrinkless sleeving with mdpc?


----------



## PappaSmurfsHarem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*
> 
> Has anyone done heatshrinkless sleeving with mdpc?


Lutro0 is the man for this. Just don't ask his technique as it is guarded like the Colonel's Original Recipe (do they have KFC in canada?) If not then that is a wasted joke









http://www.overclock.net/t/1159606/lutro0-customs-sleeved-extensions-for-sale-the-original-heatshrinkless-extensions/0_20


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> hey guys for paracord would these do good? size wise and stuff? I prefer the looks of paracord to mdpc but to each their own:
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HQ2VWM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&m=A3C2W9NLZ7EXHL
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HWGFEE/ref=gno_cart_title_1
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HWGFBM/ref=gno_cart_title_2
> so is the sizing good on those? for individually sleeved wires btw


i feel as if no one cares to answer







i just want to know before I sleeve


----------



## Arrant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> i feel as if no one cares to answer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i just want to know before I sleeve


Yea bud, it's Type III 550 paracord. That will work!


----------



## thomasrs

FInally1! Got the PSU fully sleeved I was using the wrong screw driver to open it when I got the right one in there it opened up like butter! I managed to also removed the bottom HDD Cage


----------



## thomasrs

Arrant this ones for you you said you wanted to see tha back rihgt?



Some more!!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PappaSmurfsHarem*
> 
> Lutro0 is the man for this. Just don't ask his technique as it is guarded like the Colonel's Original Recipe (do they have KFC in canada?) If not then that is a wasted joke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1159606/lutro0-customs-sleeved-extensions-for-sale-the-original-heatshrinkless-extensions/0_20


Hahahaha oh man, def put a smile on my face this morning.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PappaSmurfsHarem*
> 
> Lutro0 is the man for this. Just don't ask his technique as it is guarded like the Colonel's Original Recipe (do they have KFC in canada?) If not then that is a wasted joke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1159606/lutro0-customs-sleeved-extensions-for-sale-the-original-heatshrinkless-extensions/0_20
> 
> 
> 
> Hahahaha oh man, def put a smile on my face this morning.
Click to expand...

We do have a KFC in Canada, and his secret is the exact same as the Colonel's recipe, even when you buy the product, it is so sacred you don't dare dissect it to figure out it's secret.


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*
> 
> Has anyone done heatshrinkless sleeving with mdpc?


i do it with kobra much the same yes/ no

drop me a p.m if interested


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> i do it with kobra much the same yes/ no
> drop me a p.m if interested


Hey where did you get that cyan sleeving?! That would be perfect for my needs! Im still looking for cyan extension cables and havent found any yet







Is it hard to make it yourself?


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> Hey where did you get that cyan sleeving?! That would be perfect for my needs! Im still looking for cyan extension cables and havent found any yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it hard to make it yourself?


im guessing its mdpc aquamarine blue sleeving


----------



## PappaSmurfsHarem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> im guessing its mdpc aquamarine blue sleeving


The guy even said it was Kobra sleeving. Just look for Blue Kobra sleeving.


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PappaSmurfsHarem*
> 
> The guy even said it was Kobra sleeving. Just look for Blue Kobra sleeving.


----------



## pbaines

cannot find it anywhere so will ask here

how much sleeving would i need for a WHOLE AX850? is 40m okay?


----------



## thomasrs

If your doing the entire psu definitly more. I recently sleeved about 80% of my PSU used about 45 meters. So you should look at buying 60 meteres fo whatever color you want or a compbination of colors


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Sleeving - How much sleeving will I need?
> The best and really only way is to measure them yourself or look at the datasheet for your psu. This can be found on the website for the manufactor of your psu or a review site as well.
> 
> Now you just have to look at the cable length and then add them up....
> 
> Let's say you have a 24pin cable and the datasheet says it is 520mm long, so:
> 24x520mm = 12,480 millimeters = 12.48 meters
> 
> So for just the 24pin you will need 12.48 meters of sleeving.
> 
> And then you continue to do the same for the eps, sata, molex, and pcie cables. (not to mention any other things/cables you want sleeved)
> Once you have everything added up you will want to add 10-20% more sleeve to it just in case you mess something up or perhaps forget about something.
> 
> Heatshrink - How much heatshrink will I need?
> Most places sell precut HS now, so that makes it as simple as adding it up with the rule that you will need 2x pieces of HS per wire.
> 
> So you add up all of the wires of your cables/things that you will be sleeving.
> I.E. a 24pin cable has 24 pins. So you will need 48 cuts of HS for just the 24pin.
> 
> I always add 50-100 more pieces no matter what so you don't have to settle for a messed up look, even more so if this is your first time sleeving.
> If you are using tubing that is not precut, I believe the rule of thumb is to find out how much 20% of your total order of sleeving will be and order that amount in HS.
> But again I would choose to try and do the math, for example is you are using 15mm cuts of hs, you would need 30mm of hs per wire, and if you are using 20mm cuts you would need 40mm per wire and so on. Remember to add the equivalent of 50 to 100 extra pieces so you can get a little extra.


Taken from my sleeving faq (link is in my sig under video sleeving guides, the faq is on the third post.)


----------



## kyismaster

Spoiler: Left Over Paracord makes a pretty nice fashion statements


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Left Over Paracord makes a pretty nice fashion statements


nice i was going to do that with mine but i ran out haha


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hartk1213*
> 
> nice i was going to do that with mine but i ran out haha


I have about~ 75 feet left of black and ~atleast 35 feet of blue


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I have about~ 75 feet left of black and ~atleast 35 feet of blue


u wanna make me one thats pretty sweet man lol


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hartk1213*
> 
> u wanna make me one thats pretty sweet man lol


Sure I guess







pm me i guess,


----------



## Nano5656

So, It was mentioned about 20 pages back, but there was never really a definite solution. I was thinking about buy a silverstone strider 1000w and re-doing the wires all custom, but the PCI-E wires have that huge darn capacitor as you all know.

Did we ever figure out how bad it is to remove/ use different wires without a capacitor? That PSU seems like the best for my needs, but if it's gonna be a pain to make wires for just because of the capacitor I can easily go a different route.


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nano5656*
> 
> So, It was mentioned about 20 pages back, but there was never really a definite solution. I was thinking about buy a silverstone strider 1000w and re-doing the wires all custom, but the PCI-E wires have that huge darn capacitor as you all know.
> 
> Did we ever figure out how bad it is to remove/ use different wires without a capacitor? That PSU seems like the best for my needs, but if it's gonna be a pain to make wires for just because of the capacitor I can easily go a different route.


I thought I read that u can take then off but I don't know for sure

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk


----------



## BIackout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nano5656*
> 
> So, It was mentioned about 20 pages back, but there was never really a definite solution. I was thinking about buy a silverstone strider 1000w and re-doing the wires all custom, but the PCI-E wires have that huge darn capacitor as you all know.
> Did we ever figure out how bad it is to remove/ use different wires without a capacitor? That PSU seems like the best for my needs, but if it's gonna be a pain to make wires for just because of the capacitor I can easily go a different route.


Yeah, i answered this about 3 days ago. I have the OCZ ZX1000W and it also has capacitors in every cable. Here is what the OCZ representative said to me:
Quote:


> Side Note: I asked OCZ if removing the capacitors would affect the efficiency of the unit and this was their response:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The capacitors should have no (or very little) effect on the efficiency rating, but I do recommend you use them.
> 
> The capacitors help smooth out any voltage drops and reduce ripple. The PSU and system should work fine without them, but the benefit they add is worth the extra trouble.
Click to expand...


----------



## xXSpitFireXx

subbed









awesome thread, don't know if i would be able to sleeve all my modular cable though.. looks tedious!!


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nano5656*
> 
> So, It was mentioned about 20 pages back, but there was never really a definite solution. I was thinking about buy a silverstone strider 1000w and re-doing the wires all custom, but the PCI-E wires have that huge darn capacitor as you all know.
> Did we ever figure out how bad it is to remove/ use different wires without a capacitor? That PSU seems like the best for my needs, but if it's gonna be a pain to make wires for just because of the capacitor I can easily go a different route.


well i have done it to 2 psu's one worked all the same as it did before but the one i resantly did surprisingly reduced my vga O.C stuff all like 20mhz so id say if clocks are important to u keep them handy just encase u need to put them back in

it didn't bother me all that much

people dont own ferraris just cuz thay go fast if u wanted somthing just fast ud buy a 1000hp supra people buy ferraris cuz thay "look good" and go fast just my 2c


----------



## Nano5656

Well said brotha ^ Well said., Is it possible to leave the original sleeving on up to the end of the capacitor and then just sleeve past that point? That sounds like it would be the best of both worlds.


----------



## Imrac

I believe the capacitors are towards the end of the cable. I think I saw someone remove and re-solder them closer the PSU for a better look, while maintaining the performance.


----------



## Nano5656

That's probably what I'm gonna try. I wonder if I can get like sata sleeve and run that over the capacitor and then heatshrink it and then switch back to single sleeve. Hmm.


----------



## pbaines

Hi again, i have sleeved my AX850, but appears i have put a wire back in the wrong place, where can i find a diagram i can use to find out which cable goes where?

Cheers


----------



## PappaSmurfsHarem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbaines*
> 
> Hi again, i have sleeved my AX850, but appears i have put a wire back in the wrong place, where can i find a diagram i can use to find out which cable goes where?
> Cheers


Does your 24 pin have the same 10pin +16pin on the opposite end like the seasonics?


----------



## Furion92

Here you go


----------



## pbaines

Hey Furion, thanks so much, that is exactly what i am looking for, i could not find something like that to save my life haha,

Will try all of that and if it still isnt wired properly, will try and ask for further assistance

one thing i know. the green and black are in the right place cos i can jump start it







just have to find the naughty cable in the wrong place


----------



## mordocai rp

heres what a sleeved capacitor seasonic cable looks like incase you guys were wondering


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> heres what a sleeved capacitor seasonic cable looks like incase you guys were wondering


i kinda like that and the sata sleaving idear 2 i think im going to look into this this sounds like a good idear


----------



## Davayy

Why can't you sleeve each individual cable 1 at a time, thus eliminating the problem of forgetting where the pin is meant to go?


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Davayy*
> 
> Why can't you sleeve each individual cable 1 at a time, thus eliminating the problem of forgetting where the pin is meant to go?


you can, its what i did. takes a bit longer though


----------



## Davayy

I was thinking i was missing something major








Just waiting for my MDPC atx remover to come, then i'm on it.


----------



## OverK1LL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


This is SICK! I'd like to know more about how this works, electrically... Like what are it's limitations?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverK1LL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is SICK! I'd like to know more about how this works, electrically... Like what are it's limitations?
Click to expand...

#18 AWG wire can handle up to 7 A DC current according to American Electrical Code.

7 A x 12 V = 84 W

With an 6-pin connector you have 3 pairs 12 V wires (yellow + black), so that's a maximum of 84 W x 3 = 252 W.

So even if you jump one 6-pin connector off another, you are still within tolerances of the wire.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverK1LL*
> 
> This is SICK! I'd like to know more about how this works, electrically... Like what are it's limitations?


The power supply or rail should be the only limitations. Most power supplies run a similar config on their pcie cables. The one shown was actually a 8 + 6pin.

That is granted you are using a good 18AWG wire.


----------



## OverK1LL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> The power supply or rail should be the only limitations. Most power supplies run a similar config on their pcie cables. The one shown was actually a 8 + 6pin.
> That is granted you are using a good 18AWG wire.


Looks like we need to change up my order around when you open back up. LOL


----------



## Frontside

Hi, guys. Help me to dicide what sleeving should i go for. I was thinking about MDPC black or titinium grey. I just want to know if titanium grey are closer to black than grey? Maybe someone have a pics to share


----------



## zer0signa1

So, I am sure someone has suggested this technique for sleeving... But I have not read all 660+ pages.. But I find its a hell of a lot easier if you use a coat hanger and tape a little bit of the wire and hanger - then slide the sleeving over the hanger and push till you reach the PSU...

Works very well instead of try to inch worm the thing up the wire!

Tested this on 1/8 Bitspower Sleeving.


----------



## Hartk1213

i also found another way to do it for paracord or MDPC

if you take this molex pin removal tool and unscrew the bigger of the two ends you get this

the wire fits just perfectly

the little tube also is just the right size to fit right through the paracord with ease

i made one of the Anti-Tangle tools that Robertts25 made the tutorial for but it just wasnt working for me the paracord was too tight(i think i made it wrong







) anyway just thought id share this with the community
now one tool double as pin removal tool and an anti tangle tool


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontside*
> 
> Hi, guys. Help me to dicide what sleeving should i go for. I was thinking about MDPC black or titinium grey. I just want to know if titanium grey are closer to black than grey? Maybe someone have a pics to share


I do not have a pic, but it is just a hint darker then the light gray.


----------



## Frontside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I do not have a pic, but it is just a hint darker then the light gray.


I have found it









Third from below on the right? And which one is color-X?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontside*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I do not have a pic, but it is just a hint darker then the light gray.
> 
> 
> 
> I have found it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Third from below on the right? And which one is color-X?
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure Color X is the second form the bottom on the left, the darker red. You can see it in action in the link in my sig to the extensions he made me


----------



## Sir Beregond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontside*
> 
> I have found it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Third from below on the right? And which one is color-X?


Third from the bottom. Between that red and the brown.


----------



## zer0signa1

ATX and 8PIN CPU are done.... I order way under what I needed... Thinking 60ft.... Pfft more like 120ft... Well here is what i have right now.


----------



## mordocai rp

if I want to make custom wires for my psu, and my psu is modular. Does it matter what type of wire i use(18awg?) or where i plug them into in the modular end?


----------



## regles

18awg is the recommended thickness. It does matter where they are plugged in the modular side as different companies have different pin positions.


----------



## pbaines

(tried sleeping, but got bored so decided to do some sleeving)

When sleeving goes wrong:
never have your thumb over the cable you are pulling out


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbaines*
> 
> (tried sleeping, but got bored so decided to do some sleeving)
> When sleeving goes wrong:
> never have your thumb over the cable you are pulling out


Been there man, more times then I would like to admit, and I've been doing it for a while now haha.

Looks great, remember you can always go back and cut the heatshrink offa the wire and reshrink it till you get them all even. You will get the feel of it after practice, dont settle for anything less then prefection. Just takes time and the willingness to use up some heatshrink. If the heatshrink starts to bulge when you are putting it in take it out blow on it a bit and try again - if it still does reheat it up just on the shrink to melt the sleeve some more and then repeat, eventually it will go in cleanly.

If you have any more questions please feel free to ask.


----------



## pbaines

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Been there man, more times then I would like to admit, and I've been doing it for a while now haha.
> Looks great, remember you can always go back and cut the heatshrink offa the wire and reshrink it till you get them all even. You will get the feel of it after practice, dont settle for anything less then prefection. Just takes time and the willingness to use up some heatshrink. If the heatshrink starts to bulge when you are putting it in take it out blow on it a bit and try again - if it still does reheat it up just on the shrink to melt the sleeve some more and then repeat, eventually it will go in cleanly.
> If you have any more questions please feel free to ask.


haha, i have got quite a few scratches from this lol

Yeah i know man







i am pleased with the result, is only the second time i have sleeved a psu, so its not a bad effort i think.
Also, the one that is bulging is one of the 6+2 GPU plus, where i cut the +2 extensions off where i did not need them, and they were soooo hard to even get back in the hole and make em click as it was super bendy, i might order some ATX Pins and re do those ones, as like you said, they bulge !!
Thanks man, will always come to you with assistance









i hare seeing sleeving where the heatshrink is 3 times longer than it needs to be, and where all the cables are different lengths, the MDPX-X technique is always the best


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbaines*
> 
> haha, i have got quite a few scratches from this lol
> Yeah i know man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i am pleased with the result, is only the second time i have sleeved a psu, so its not a bad effort i think.
> Also, the one that is bulging is one of the 6+2 GPU plus, where i cut the +2 extensions off where i did not need them, and they were soooo hard to even get back in the hole and make em click as it was super bendy, i might order some ATX Pins and re do those ones, as like you said, they bulge !!
> Thanks man, will always come to you with assistance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i hare seeing sleeving where the heatshrink is 3 times longer than it needs to be, and where all the cables are different lengths, the MDPX-X technique is always the best


Bingo! Keep up the great work man! Double wires are always hard, so I try to rewire or plan out my systems do that they don't need to have a double connector like that, or I will use an extension so that the double is not in view.


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *regles*
> 
> 18awg is the recommended thickness. It does matter where they are plugged in the modular side as different companies have different pin positions.


mind elaborating? so I can just take one wire, crimp on 2 ends and stick it into matching places?


----------



## regles

What I did with my power supply is remove one wire from the cable and replace it with the new wire in the exact same position the original wire was in. This way you don't mix up the positioning.


----------



## mordocai rp

oh that works, thanks!


----------



## itzkin

Hey guys, I was sleeving my Corsair HX1050 24Pin connector when I broke 2 connector heads right off. I figured something was wrong when I needed extra force to pull those two out >.>.... Anyway I broke a square head and a pin that has an arch head from the 24 pin, the two pin heads are also used in the PCI-E cables identical to the sort of which I've broken in the 24 pin. I tried to show the pins in the picture pasted. 

My question is can I just get any standard ATX Female pins ( I assume it has a sqaure shape) to recrimp it on and make it work? Or do I need special pins?


----------



## Aximous

You can use standard female ATX pins and recrimp those without a problem.


----------



## kj1060

Finished the 8-Pin CPU and 24-Pin on my AX1200.





Yeah it was pretty easy with the right extractor.


----------



## Arrant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kj1060*
> 
> Finished the 8-Pin CPU and 24-Pin on my AX1200.
> extractor.


Looks good







, did you open the PSU and sleeve it fully?


----------



## kj1060

No I am just doing the modular cables.


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arrant*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kj1060*
> 
> Finished the 8-Pin CPU and 24-Pin on my AX1200.
> extractor.
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , did you open the PSU and sleeve it fully?
Click to expand...

The AX1200 is fully modular iirc

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kj1060*
> 
> No I am just doing the modular cables.


your cables look exactly like mine!







but i have one white not two







looks good nonetheless


----------



## headcase9

So I've single sleeved a few things now, fan cables, 6 pin graphics card cables etc. But I can't figure out how to get the heatshrink into the connector. I tried a few times and ended up scrapping the HS and starting over. In the end I just decided to leave the heatshrink just outside of the connector, which obviously is a less than ideal result.

What do you guys do to get this to work? What I've heard is that you just have to do it while the HS is still hot, but all I ended up doing was squishing and ruining the HS. Any advice?


----------



## itzkin

You want it hot enough to put in, but not hot enough that it just ruins the shape of it. I usually just heat it a bit not too much and if I feel that the heatshrink softens its good enough to put in but wont ruin the shape when I push it into the connector head. Keep trying until you get the hang of it. It took me a couple of heatshrinks before I got the technique to put it in, now I just have to master lining all the heatshrinks together with a nice shrinking technique.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *headcase9*
> 
> So I've single sleeved a few things now, fan cables, 6 pin graphics card cables etc. But I can't figure out how to get the heatshrink into the connector. I tried a few times and ended up scrapping the HS and starting over. In the end I just decided to leave the heatshrink just outside of the connector, which obviously is a less than ideal result.
> What do you guys do to get this to work? What I've heard is that you just have to do it while the HS is still hot, but all I ended up doing was squishing and ruining the HS. Any advice?


Check out my sleeving video guides either the paracord or the mdpc show what you are asking, the link is in my sig.

If you have anymore questions after watching those let me know.


----------



## kj1060

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> your cables look exactly like mine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but i have one white not two
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks good nonetheless


You have pics of your rig?


----------



## itzkin

Anyone have any idea how to sleeve all the wire on these cables (multiple sata power and multiple molex)? For the 4 pin "molex" do I have to take off the pins and recrimp them?


----------



## Ragsters

Finally finished my 12" extensions this past weekend! Colors are MDPC White, Grey and Purple/Pink.

1 x 24pin
1 x 8Pin CPU
1 x 8Pin PCI-E
1 x 6Pin PCI-E


----------



## solsamurai

Very nice.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Very nice.


Thank you sir!


----------



## itzkin

Very "daring" colorway for me







. Pink on a computer system.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itzkin*
> 
> Very "daring" colorway for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Pink on a computer system.


It was meant for my wife but the project fell through.


----------



## Lutro0

Good job Rags!


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Good job Rags!


Thanks Lutro0! That means a lot coming from you. Oh and I used your tool for the entire project and now I cant imagine not owning it.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Thanks Lutro0! That means a lot coming from you. Oh and I used your tool for the entire project and now I cant imagine not owning it.


Hey no problem I'm glad that you put the tool to use.


----------



## Ragsters

Anyone have any purple violet? I have pretty much every color to trade.


----------



## Sir Beregond

I just ordered the tool myself. That is some beautiful work. I cannot wait to do that myself.


----------



## Ragsters

Bought some vivid violet and aqua marine sleeve. I also bought pre-cut shrink and m3 screws with washers. I cant wait!


----------



## thomasrs

That looks nice wish mine could look that nice and that straight! My wires are all jiggly it doesn´t look that uniform any ideas why this maybe?


----------



## Adrenalined

Almost finished doing my first sleeving project. Here is a quick pic of the finished 8pin, with the full album


http://imgur.com/a

. Comments welcome!


----------



## BlazinJoker

For a first sleeving attempt I say a job well done!


----------



## Ragsters

I have a technical question for you guys and Im hoping Papa can chime in. Can I use the Silverstone short cable kit with my x-650 as long as I change the connectors that go into the PSU from the Siverstone ones to the Seasonic ones?


----------



## Jobotoo

Subbed.


----------



## PappaSmurfsHarem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I have a technical question for you guys and Im hoping Papa can chime in. Can I use the Silverstone short cable kit with my x-650 as long as I change the connectors that go into the PSU from the Siverstone ones to the Seasonic ones?


To an extent that may work. But most certainly will not for the 24 pin. As the Seasonic x650 has a 10pin and 16pin connector from the PSU that turns into the 24 pin. Many Silvestones if not all that I have seen are basically 24 pin psu side 24 pin MB side.

So basically that seasonic as 26 wires that come from the PSU and turn into 23 wires on the 24 pin connector.

Some cables from that kit *MAY* work. But I can't be sure. for instance the seasonic 6pin PCIes are 12pins (12 and 2 double wires) psu side. That turn into 6pin and 6+2 pin (14 wires)

If you want replacement seasonic cables to sleeve you can buy them direct from Antron Electronics. (909)-595-8860 ask to speak with George.


----------



## kyismaster

testing out some paracord and new shrink!

about to do my Fan connectors







, just wanted to do a test run on a power switch, before I get carried away.

Note: Don't underestimate Shrink's shrinking power, it literally crushed the housing end!


----------



## mordocai rp

hey guys, i was wondering if i need any special wire crimpers or can i just use basic ones(like the ones at lowes for example) to crimp my molex pins. I completely forgot about a crimper and can't finish my wires without one. So do i need a special crimper? Or can i just use any old crimper? What if I use pliers and jut ben down the "wings" onto the bare wire, will that work?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PappaSmurfsHarem*
> 
> To an extent that may work. But most certainly will not for the 24 pin. As the Seasonic x650 has a 10pin and 16pin connector from the PSU that turns into the 24 pin. Many Silvestones if not all that I have seen are basically 24 pin psu side 24 pin MB side.
> So basically that seasonic as 26 wires that come from the PSU and turn into 23 wires on the 24 pin connector.
> Some cables from that kit *MAY* work. But I can't be sure. for instance the seasonic 6pin PCIes are 12pins (12 and 2 double wires) psu side. That turn into 6pin and 6+2 pin (14 wires)
> If you want replacement seasonic cables to sleeve you can buy them direct from Antron Electronics. (909)-595-8860 ask to speak with George.


Thanks Papa! The real reason for me wanting to do this is to shorten the cables for a mATX build.


----------



## PappaSmurfsHarem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> hey guys, i was wondering if i need any special wire crimpers or can i just use basic ones(like the ones at lowes for example) to crimp my molex pins. I completely forgot about a crimper and can't finish my wires without one. So do i need a special crimper? Or can i just use any old crimper? What if I use pliers and jut ben down the "wings" onto the bare wire, will that work?


There are a few available. The MDPC crimper is the best. That will set you back $~62

The ones at Frozen CPU and Perf-PCs dont perform the Bite crimp (F-Crimp, M shaped crimp)


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PappaSmurfsHarem*
> 
> There are a few available. The MDPC crimper is the best. That will set you back $~62
> The ones at Frozen CPU and Perf-PCs dont perform the Bite crimp (F-Crimp, M shaped crimp)


thats the problem, i only need 6wires crimped and i'd never use it again :/


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> -snip-
> testing out some paracord and new shrink!
> about to do my Fan connectors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just wanted to do a test run on a power switch, before I get carried away.
> Note: Don't underestimate Shrink's shrinking power, it literally crushed the housing end!


Actually, that would be caused by the low temp of the plastic used for those connectors. Trust me Ive done a ton of them. They melt super super easy with low heat so you have to be very very careful when shrinking them.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> thats the problem, i only need 6wires crimped and i'd never use it again :/


If you are only going to be doing a few wires the cheap crimper will work fine. However never use it for a full job.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Actually, that would be caused by the low temp of the plastic used for those connectors. Trust me Ive done a ton of them. They melt super super easy with low heat so you have to be very very careful when shrinking them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you are only going to be doing a few wires the cheap crimper will work fine. However never use it for a full job.


I kind of see it as a bonus effect though, I don't have to worry about the shrink being to big and blocking other pinouts! xD


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I kind of see it as a bonus effect though, I don't have to worry about the shrink being to big and blocking other pinouts! xD


Yea, you are totally right, I have found that mdpc shrink still allows for other pins right next to each other, however this is much more of a problem with a thick walled heatshrink so some planing beforehand will be required.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Yea, you are totally right, I have found that mdpc shrink still allows for other pins right next to each other, however this is much more of a problem with a thick walled heatshrink so some planing beforehand will be required.


^ Yes!, Especially when you try the heavy duty industrial shrink, that hardens to rock







(( don't try it, trust me ))
How thin is MDPC anyways?

The shrink im using is just 1MM, however It doesn't have the same shrink ratio as MDPC/ or the correct sizing (( however it is JUST small enough that it holds my Paracord in place ))


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> ^ Yes!, Especially when you try the heavy duty industrial shrink, that hardens to rock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (( don't try it, trust me ))
> How thin is MDPC anyways?
> The shrink im using is just 1MM, however It doesn't have the same shrink ratio as MDPC/ or the correct sizing (( however it is JUST small enough that it holds my Paracord in place ))


Never actually measured it, I would assume I need a caliper of sorts lol


----------



## Oberon

Just a teaser...

Check out my buildlog !!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oberon*
> 
> 
> Just a teaser...
> Check out my buildlog !!


Hmmm, that looks like Martins work.

-edit- AHA nailed it. Funny how you can recognized others work after you have been sleeving for a while. He does great work and I recommend him highly, great work and a great person to boot.


----------



## Oberon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Hmmm, that looks like Martins work.
> -edit- AHA nailed it. Funny how you can recognized others work after you have been sleeving for a while. He does great work and I recommend him highly, great work and a great person to boot.


haha yeah recognizable because of the perfect heatshrinking.

Whenever I see perfect sleeving, I think it's Martin but of course if I see perfect extensions, it's gotta be Lutro0


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

What do you guys think about the Bitspower Deluxe 1/8in Cable Sleeve and Bitspower Deluxe 5mm Heatshrink?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> What do you guys think about the Bitspower Deluxe 1/8in Cable Sleeve and Bitspower Deluxe 5mm Heatshrink?


I will be honest and say right off the bat that and another are the last two sleevings that I have not had in my hands yet. However Kobra HD has 1/8th sleeving as well and I will assume for now the same problems exist with both, unless the bitspower expands more.

When you make a sleeve so skinny (1/8) and it does not expand the it will get caught on the wire pins and give you a super hard time just getting it on, so you will have to rely on a tool or some other method (tape) just to get it on the wire.

Another downfall I see with these types (granted again I have not had this in my hands) is the super thin spagetti look. The cables seem small and skinny and not filled in so the nice rainbow look that you try to achieve is gone.

Last but not least, when you have that small of a diameter of sleeve the coverage with colored sleeved tends to be spotty a tad due to the size of the wire, If you have a skinny 18awg wire sure it looks ok (some coverage lost still), but try to put it on a 16awg wire and you will sacrifice some to alot of coverage.

Again, I have not indeed used this type myself ( I hope to change that soon when I have to reorder connectors ) But there is similar products on the market.

SO instead of saying don't try it, I will say buy a sample and test it for yourself - test the thoughts I just said and decide for yourself.

-EDIT- My own need for knowledge got to me and I ordered some of the hs and the sleeve and colored sleeve, when I get it I will follow up with pics.


----------



## KingMaddog

Here is a pic of my first sleeving job. I got the extension to practice on before I open my power supply.


----------



## BlazinJoker

Wow that extension looks wicked neat for a first time sleeving


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> Wow that extension looks wicked neat for a first time sleeving


+1


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I will be honest and say right off the bat that and another are the last two sleevings that I have not had in my hands yet. However Kobra HD has 1/8th sleeving as well and I will assume for now the same problems exist with both, unless the bitspower expands more.
> When you make a sleeve so skinny (1/8) and it does not expand the it will get caught on the wire pins and give you a super hard time just getting it on, so you will have to rely on a tool or some other method (tape) just to get it on the wire.
> Another downfall I see with these types (granted again I have not had this in my hands) is the super thin spagetti look. The cables seem small and skinny and not filled in so the nice rainbow look that you try to achieve is gone.
> Last but not least, when you have that small of a diameter of sleeve the coverage with colored sleeved tends to be spotty a tad due to the size of the wire, If you have a skinny 18awg wire sure it looks ok (some coverage lost still), but try to put it on a 16awg wire and you will sacrifice some to alot of coverage.
> Again, I have not indeed used this type myself ( I hope to change that soon when I have to reorder connectors ) But there is similar products on the market.
> SO instead of saying don't try it, I will say buy a sample and test it for yourself - test the thoughts I just said and decide for yourself.
> -EDIT- My own need for knowledge got to me and I ordered some of the hs and the sleeve and colored sleeve, when I get it I will follow up with pics.


Iv been deciding to either get that Bitspower stuff or Furry Letters but i thought id ask the experts first







... plus i spent all my money already lmao. i dont have a real problem doing fiddly work i was a lil concerned on the quality of it i havent seen much about the stuff so i wasnt sure.

Im eager to see the pics







.

Btw Lutro0 you do some really nice sleeving


----------



## PappaSmurfsHarem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Iv been deciding to either get that Bitspower stuff or Furry Letters but i thought id ask the experts first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... plus i spent all my money already lmao. i dont have a real problem doing fiddly work i was a lil concerned on the quality of it i havent seen much about the stuff so i wasnt sure.
> Im eager to see the pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Btw Lutro0 you do some really nice sleeving


Does MDPC not ship to Australia?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PappaSmurfsHarem*
> 
> Does MDPC not ship to Australia?


I dunno i havent checked yet xD


----------



## PappaSmurfsHarem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I dunno i havent checked yet xD


It is highly recommended


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PappaSmurfsHarem*
> 
> It is highly recommended


Thats true but also expensive im gonna check it out tho


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Thats true but also expensive im gonna check it out tho


its by far possibly if not, is best on the market.








Can't go wrong with MDPC


----------



## PappaSmurfsHarem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Thats true but also expensive im gonna check it out tho


I dunno. That bits power looks like what $2/m 100m=$200 where as I bought 100m MDPC for $58.74 however the dumping packs are cheaper.

Without the dumping pack you are looking at around $0.94/m or $9.41 per 10 meters. This is in US dollars of course.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PappaSmurfsHarem*
> 
> I dunno. That bits power looks like what $2/m 100m=$200 where as I bought 100m MDPC for $58.74 however the dumping packs are cheaper.
> Without the dumping pack you are looking at around $0.94/m or $9.41 per 10 meters. This is in US dollars of course.


My biggest problem is the exchange rate usually costs about double :\. Then again Furry Letters i can get the 100 feet for $30 including shipping


----------



## nawon72

What sleeving should I get if I'm only interested in keeping the wires together, and don't care for looks, just best quality/$? The sleeving would need to be fairly expandable, or I would need to know what sizes to get, since I'll be sleeving mostly 3pin fans, and 4pin molex cables. I'm not really interested in paracord since it seems to add quite a bit of bulk, and has "hairs".

Might also sleeve a cheap external PSU since it's not sleeved already, and I don't like using zip ties. What sizes would I need?

Ill be getting a crimper from FTW, or MDPC this week, so let me know if I should add some sleeving stuff to my order from them. The stuff from MDPC can ship to Germany If it's cheaper after adding the 19% VAT. And FTW V1 sleeving is 0.20$, with free shipping.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Iv been deciding to either get that Bitspower stuff or Furry Letters but i thought id ask the experts first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... plus i spent all my money already lmao. i dont have a real problem doing fiddly work i was a lil concerned on the quality of it i havent seen much about the stuff so i wasnt sure.
> Im eager to see the pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Btw Lutro0 you do some really nice sleeving


I appreciate the compliment, But I would most def heed the encouragement for buying from MDPC.


----------



## thomasrs

I finished my PSU recently sleeving with paracord and I think it looks great. But I also think I can do better. I find that the MDPC stuff is very expensive and takes long to get here(Brazil). I would love to order it though but not enough cash however I am going to be going to the U.S soon
Sooo: A good solution is the FTW

What are your thoughts on FTW sleeving? Would it be worth it to buy some?


----------



## randomnerd865

Alright Im wanting to sleeve some extensions I have and I need to know what heatshrink size to use with MDPC. Im new to sleaving so I have hardly a clue as to what im doing.


----------



## kazenagi

Some sleeve from mdpc came in today, it looks gorgeous







can't decide what would look better, heatshrink matching with the sleeve colour or an attempt at heatshrinklesss so I'll try both when I get around to do some sleeving. White and Color-x, nothing special.. can't really capture the color of color-x it's a lot brighter in the pictures but in real it's more of a deep red, the first pic is the closest looking though.


----------



## PappaSmurfsHarem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> My biggest problem is the exchange rate usually costs about double :\. Then again Furry Letters i can get the 100 feet for $30 including shipping


??

7.12 euro = 9.02 AUD = 10 meters.

30 meters = 98 ft

30meters = $27 AUD.

Sure there is the shipping on top of that. But then again 100 ft doesn't cover very much.

a whole PSU can roughly be 60+ meters.

That and you are guaranteed the best of the best. And you can get the precut Heat shrink from MDPC, which is second to none.


----------



## kyismaster

It really is Cost vs Quality when it comes down to it.

Its like buying a Ferrari or buying a Honda Civic,

They both get you to the same place.

Sure the honda is cheaper. But it might not look as nice, its not built with space age materials either.

however, the ferrari is gonna drive you out of the bank! but!, it will have quality/ luxury of no other, sleek, clean, inspected to perfection, ( nils is great at these detailings)

If you make MDPC extensions, heck, these will last you a life time. and you only gotta pay once.

So do you want something that looks nice in the long run forever?

or do you want to settle for the cheaper route, which you can dispose of easily.

however, keep in mind that both of these will take you the same amount of time to make them (( which kinda sucks, unless your godly like lutr0 xD ))


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> It really is Cost vs Quality when it comes down to it.
> Its like buying a Ferrari or buying a Honda Civic,
> They both get you to the same place.
> Sure the honda is cheaper. But it might not look as nice, its not built with space age materials either.
> however, the ferrari is gonna drive you out of the bank! but!, it will have quality/ luxury of no other, sleek, clean, inspected to perfection, ( nils is great at these detailings)
> If you make MDPC extensions, heck, these will last you a life time. and you only gotta pay once.
> So do you want something that looks nice in the long run forever?
> or do you want to settle for the cheaper route, which you can dispose of easily.
> however, keep in mind that both of these will take you the same amount of time to make them (( which kinda sucks, unless your godly like lutr0 xD ))


Ok you've all convinced me next week im gonna order 100 feet/30 meters of black MDPC sleeving and black heat shrink














... guess i should finish watching Lutro0s sleeving vids


----------



## PappaSmurfsHarem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Ok you've all convinced me next week im gonna order 100 feet/30 meters of black MDPC sleeving and black heat shrink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... guess i should finish watching Lutro0s sleeving vids


enjoy it. although the wait is unbearable

Make sure you get plenty of heat shrink and sleeve. Don't buy 100ft if your sleeving 100ft of cables...

You can always have to much, too little on the other hand sets you back a couple weeks while you wait for more


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PappaSmurfsHarem*
> 
> enjoy it. although the wait is unbearable
> Make sure you get plenty of heat shrink and sleeve. Don't buy 100ft if your sleeving 100ft of cables...
> You can always have to much, too little on the other hand sets you back a couple weeks while you wait for more


I still have to work out my cord lengths might end up getting 300ft of it just for fun


----------



## regles

This is my first attempt at sleeving. It took a good amount of time and a lot of retries, but I feel it came out the way I wanted it to.


----------



## heatsink

very nice job.......


----------



## Jayjr1105

I was going to start a new thread for this question but I figured I'd try to get some answers here first. Newegg, NCIX, Tiger, Amazon, Microcenter, etc are clearly the places to buy PC hardware. My question is where or what are the best places/websites to find more "exotic" gear like colored cable management kits, water cooling stuff, case mode stuff, etc. In particular I'm looking for a black or blue cable management kit. Thanks!


----------



## strych9

Gonna order some paracord today, is this gonna be okay? http://www.amazon.com/147-550LB-NYLON-100FT-WHITE/dp/B004GYW3BU/

Someone said this isn't hollow inside, so just want to make sure if this is alright.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *regles*
> 
> This is my first attempt at sleeving. It took a good amount of time and a lot of retries, but I feel it came out the way I wanted it to.


And that is the exact way it needs to be done, you just keep redoing it until it looks right. However after a while you will nail most of them the first time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Ok you've all convinced me next week im gonna order 100 feet/30 meters of black MDPC sleeving and black heat shrink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... guess i should finish watching Lutro0s sleeving vids


If you have any questions please feel free to ask.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thomasrs*
> 
> I finished my PSU recently sleeving with paracord and I think it looks great. But I also think I can do better. I find that the MDPC stuff is very expensive and takes long to get here(Brazil). I would love to order it though but not enough cash however I am going to be going to the U.S soon
> Sooo: A good solution is the FTW
> What are your thoughts on FTW sleeving? Would it be worth it to buy some?


The old ftw sleeve is impossible to sleeve cleanly with, the new version I can say I have not had any in my hands although if their heatshrink is the same as it was with the version 1.0 It was very sub par and became "gummy" and sticky with the lowest amount of heat.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> I was going to start a new thread for this question but I figured I'd try to get some answers here first. Newegg, NCIX, Tiger, Amazon, Microcenter, etc are clearly the places to buy PC hardware. My question is where or what are the best places/websites to find more "exotic" gear like colored cable management kits, water cooling stuff, case mode stuff, etc. In particular I'm looking for a black or blue cable management kit. Thanks!


Performance-pcs.com and frozencpu.com have been popular choices for that, among others as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strych9*
> 
> Gonna order some paracord today, is this gonna be okay? http://www.amazon.com/147-550LB-NYLON-100FT-WHITE/dp/B004GYW3BU/
> Someone said this isn't hollow inside, so just want to make sure if this is alright.


Thats fine, but all of gi plus has been kinda shiny on the outside so keep that in mind. And for reassurance, in the description it even says 7 strand core.


----------



## strych9

Thanks a lot Lutro0


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strych9*
> 
> Thanks a lot Lutro0


No prob. If you have any more questions please ask.


----------



## PappaSmurfsHarem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I still have to work out my cord lengths might end up getting 300ft of it just for fun


I was going to buy 60meters, but the 100m dumping pack was only about $2 more


----------



## kazenagi

Sleeved an 8pin eps, heatshrinkless look but I still used some heatshrink to melt it. How do you guys get your cables so straight >.> mine eventually bends out of place even if I straighten them.


----------



## Furion92

Well kazenagi...
You could have put the sleeve much further up onto the pin (where the big tabs begin) before melting it.
That way you can avoid the very slim visible part just outside the connector.

And for the straightening: make sure you stretch your sleeve as hard as you possibly can, that way the sleeve controls the cable and it's much easier to get it straight.
You know you've done it right if you can hold a single cable horizontally in the middle without the ends of it bending downwards







If you want to go VERY pro, then try the same while holding it on one end.


----------



## mordocai rp

I HATE THESE GOD DAMN DOUBLE WIRE PINS, I GET IT INTO THE DAMN CRIMP AND GO TO SLEEVE IT AND IT COMES LOOSE. THEN IT WONT FIT IN, GOD DAMN STUPID SEMI-MODULAR PSU.3HRS FOR ONE ******* DOUBLE WIRE AND IT STILL DOESNT WORK. i just want to chuck this thing into the ground and unload a clip into it. It's pissing me off so much. I want to just buy a new psu but my parents are already pissed at me even trying to sleeve my psu. Voided warrenty, cant resell unless its done, cant finish it, this is just so aggrivating. -end rant-


----------



## regles

The way I deal with double cables is to join the cables before the connector. This makes it look better and easier to sleeve.


----------



## kazenagi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> Well kazenagi...
> You could have put the sleeve much further up onto the pin (where the big tabs begin) before melting it.
> That way you can avoid the very slim visible part just outside the connector.
> And for the straightening: make sure you stretch your sleeve as hard as you possibly can, that way the sleeve controls the cable and it's much easier to get it straight.
> You know you've done it right if you can hold a single cable horizontally in the middle without the ends of it bending downwards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to go VERY pro, then try the same while holding it on one end.


I just threw this together real quick to see how it'll look like heatshrinkless







just want something to compare with a version with the coloured heatshrink. I didn't really stretch out the sleeve so that probably explains all the bends though.


----------



## Lutro0

Its that time, I will take questions about sleeving on a live feed, or just hang out! Join @ http://www.livestream.com/lutro0

Thanks to all that joined!


----------



## wermad

I bought some paracord and this will be my first use of it. I'm a bit lost on how to go about and cut it. Obviously just take a blade or scissors to it, but I'm looking for clean cuts that will avoid fraying as much as possible. While picking up some heatshrink at Frys, I saw a soldering iron that has a blade to cut rope. I'm sure this is ideal for nylon rope but will it cut cleanly through paracord? I have yet to fire it up but I would rather return unopen if its useless for cutting paracord. Here's what I got:



http://www.frys.com/product/4575017?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Its that time, I will take questions about sleeving on a live feed, or just hang out! Join @ http://www.livestream.com/lutro0
> 
> Thanks to all that joined!


I just got 36 GTs that will need sleeving and connectors.









So I will be going through some tutorials soon.


----------



## heatsink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> I HATE THESE GOD DAMN DOUBLE WIRE PINS, I GET IT INTO THE DAMN CRIMP AND GO TO SLEEVE IT AND IT COMES LOOSE. THEN IT WONT FIT IN, GOD DAMN STUPID SEMI-MODULAR PSU.3HRS FOR ONE ******* DOUBLE WIRE AND IT STILL DOESNT WORK. i just want to chuck this thing into the ground and unload a clip into it. It's pissing me off so much. I want to just buy a new psu but my parents are already pissed at me even trying to sleeve my psu. Voided warrenty, cant resell unless its done, cant finish it, this is just so aggrivating. -end rant-


Everything will be fine, lol. I'm not laughing at you dude, it is aggrivating at times. Just take your time and don't rush. I'm the same way, it does take time. Just don't compete, do it for yourself.

Just bought a load of sleeving and shrink for my project. What a great company, MDPC.


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I bought some paracord and this will be my first use of it. I'm a bit lost on how to go about and cut it. Obviously just take a blade or scissors to it, but I'm looking for clean cuts that will avoid fraying as much as possible. While picking up some heatshrink at Frys, I saw a soldering iron that has a blade to cut rope. I'm sure this is ideal for nylon rope but will it cut cleanly through paracord? I have yet to fire it up but I would rather return unopen if its useless for cutting paracord. Here's what I got:
> 
> http://www.frys.com/product/4575017?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG


it wont fray unless you make it fray. Heatshrink covers up the fray anyways so just return it if using heatshrink


----------



## kyismaster

I hate double pins...... hold on i'll show you how mines turned out rofl.



Ahahahahaha, It goes from Sleeved black para > Tie Wrap -> Purple wire -> Tie Wrap -> Paracord

Yes, Your probably saying "well why didn't you do it in one continuous peice?

well...... You see... I took a pin from another connector.... and it got stuck







. Doh! moment for me....

Guess its time for extensions for me









old but:

spent like 13 + hours on this one 24 pin http://www.overclock.net/gallery/image/view/album/146848/id/718048/sort/display_order

Used: 50 FT of black and 50 FT of blue on just the 24 pin o___O how? Not sure.



Got it heatshrinkless but :T, I screwed up multiple times. (( also there is slack, because I didn't want the sleeve top pop out, especially that two pin rofl ))



Yes, I know its un-uniform, why? the dumb designer decided to "twist" the pins around each other like a braid ........ The more you think about the idea, the dumber it sounds.

This is what it looked like when I had to sleeve them (( note: I organized the "tangle" shown below when I sleeved it))



and
after I sleeved them.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I bought some paracord and this will be my first use of it. I'm a bit lost on how to go about and cut it. Obviously just take a blade or scissors to it, but I'm looking for clean cuts that will avoid fraying as much as possible. While picking up some heatshrink at Frys, I saw a soldering iron that has a blade to cut rope. I'm sure this is ideal for nylon rope but will it cut cleanly through paracord? I have yet to fire it up but I would rather return unopen if its useless for cutting paracord. Here's what I got:


Wermad you will just want to use a regular straight edge snip, this will give you a clean cut and then you can hit it with a lighter to get rid of the fray, if you use a heat knife all you will do is melt the crud out of it.

Also

Since the last late night session went so well, I will be doing another one right now, with my first impressions on Bitspower sleeving and heatshrink.

I will share my findings in this status update as well as in the form of a Video in an upcoming update.

All information will be added to my guide located at: http://www.overclock.net/overclock-net-artisans/1122053-lutro0-customs-sleeving-tool-tutorials.html

So for everyone wanting to ask questions or just hang out please join me @ http://www.livestream.com/lutro0


----------



## nawon72

Ill be getting a crimper, pin removers, and possibly heatshrink from MDPC, unless I can find a molex branded crimper that isn't really expensive. I would get the MDPC sleeving too, but I need some sleeving that can expand quite a bit, and i'm not sure if MDPC is capable. It needs to at least expand enough to sleeve all the wires in a 4 pin molex cable with one sleeve. I'm also interested in FTW V1 sleeving since it's 0.20C/Ft shipped right now, and It seems to have a larger ID, so I would assume it would expand more. If it can sleeve an 8Pin, then I would be very happy, and ill just get larger ID sleeving for 24pins.

And is there anything else I should get from MDPC? I can ship to Germany if needed to reduce the cost, then pick it up when I go in the summer.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Wermad you will just want to use a regular straight edge snip, this will give you a clean cut and then you can hit it with a lighter to get rid of the fray, if you use a heat knife all you will do is melt the crud out of it.
> Also
> Since the last late night session went so well, I will be doing another one right now, with my first impressions on Bitspower sleeving and heatshrink.
> I will share my findings in this status update as well as in the form of a Video in an upcoming update.
> All information will be added to my guide located at: http://www.overclock.net/overclock-net-artisans/1122053-lutro0-customs-sleeving-tool-tutorials.html
> So for everyone wanting to ask questions or just hang out please join me @ http://www.livestream.com/lutro0


I tried it anyways and it didn't work. Seems like this iron does not get hot enough to melt paracord (950°F/510°C iron). Still, I needed a new soldering iron so I'm keeping it







.

New psu should be arriving this week and I'm a bit excited to see how para cord turns out. This time around I will be doing single wire sleeving as opposed to paired wires as I've done with all my psu(s) except the first.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> Ill be getting a crimper, pin removers, and possibly heatshrink from MDPC, unless I can find a molex branded crimper that isn't really expensive. I would get the MDPC sleeving too, but I need some sleeving that can expand quite a bit, and i'm not sure if MDPC is capable. It needs to at least expand enough to sleeve all the wires in a 4 pin molex cable with one sleeve. I'm also interested in FTW V1 sleeving since it's 0.20C/Ft shipped right now, and It seems to have a larger ID, so I would assume it would expand more. If it can sleeve an 8Pin, then I would be very happy, and ill just get larger ID sleeving for 24pins.
> 
> And is there anything else I should get from MDPC? I can ship to Germany if needed to reduce the cost, then pick it up when I go in the summer.


FTW v1 sleeving is very poor for single sleeving, there is a reason they did a version 2







. I would highly recommend not buying it for single sleeving. However if you are doing bundles it may work fine. If you are purchasing from mdpc, I would just get the sleeve from them being you are making an order anyhow.

But that would all depend on what your method of sleeving will be, are you going to single sleeve or are you going to bundle sleeve?


----------



## regles

Finally finished my 24 pin cable. My fingers are so sore right now.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> Ill be getting a crimper, pin removers, and possibly heatshrink from MDPC, unless I can find a molex branded crimper that isn't really expensive. I would get the MDPC sleeving too, but I need some sleeving that can expand quite a bit, and i'm not sure if MDPC is capable. It needs to at least expand enough to sleeve all the wires in a 4 pin molex cable with one sleeve. I'm also interested in FTW V1 sleeving since it's 0.20C/Ft shipped right now, and It seems to have a larger ID, so I would assume it would expand more. If it can sleeve an 8Pin, then I would be very happy, and ill just get larger ID sleeving for 24pins.
> 
> And is there anything else I should get from MDPC? I can ship to Germany if needed to reduce the cost, then pick it up when I go in the summer.
> 
> 
> 
> FTW v1 sleeving is very poor for single sleeving, there is a reason they did a version 2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I would highly recommend not buying it for single sleeving. However if you are doing bundles it may work fine. If you are purchasing from mdpc, I would just get the sleeve from them being you are making an order anyhow.
> 
> But that would all depend on what your method of sleeving will be, are you going to single sleeve or are you going to bundle sleeve?
Click to expand...

I'll be doing all the wires of a connector with one sleeve. But I'm not sure If I'll bother re-sleeving the PSU, so I think I would only need to sleeve up to 4 pin molex cables, with the majority being 3pin fan cables and extensions. Eventually I will try making some custom length PSU cables, so I'll buy some stuff ahead of time to save on shipping. Let me know what will be the cheapest sleeving that will get the job done(keep the wires together), not too difficult to use, and doesn't melt or tear easily. I don't care if I can see the cables through the sleeve.

And I may get adhesive heatshrink instead of the MDPC stuff if it's cheaper. Could you tell me the pros and cons of it?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *regles*
> 
> Finally finished my 24 pin cable. My fingers are so sore right now.


Impressive!


----------



## PappaSmurfsHarem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> I'll be doing all the wires of a connector with one sleeve. But I'm not sure If I'll bother re-sleeving the PSU, so I think I would only need to sleeve up to 4 pin molex cables, with the majority being 3pin fan cables and extensions. Eventually I will try making some custom length PSU cables, so I'll buy some stuff ahead of time to save on shipping. Let me know what will be the cheapest sleeving that will get the job done(keep the wires together), not too difficult to use, and doesn't melt or tear easily. I don't care if I can see the cables through the sleeve.
> 
> And I may get adhesive heatshrink instead of the MDPC stuff if it's cheaper. Could you tell me the pros and cons of it?


I'm confused? The X-Series already has a factory single sleeve over the wires, why would you want to redo it just to look basically the same?

Also the adhesive heatshrink has some good uses, from what I hear to tends to be somewhat "messy" however for a bundled single sleeve it probably wouldn't be horrible.


----------



## BlazinJoker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *regles*
> 
> Finally finished my 24 pin cable. My fingers are so sore right now.


Wow this is indeed very impressive.


----------



## regles

Thanks. It took me forever to do the cable as there was double pins to take care of. I must have spent 30 minutes for each double wire.

Sorry for the off colour on the ends, my camera is not the greatest.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PappaSmurfsHarem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> I'll be doing all the wires of a connector with one sleeve. But I'm not sure If I'll bother re-sleeving the PSU, so I think I would only need to sleeve up to 4 pin molex cables, with the majority being 3pin fan cables and extensions. Eventually I will try making some custom length PSU cables, so I'll buy some stuff ahead of time to save on shipping. Let me know what will be the cheapest sleeving that will get the job done(keep the wires together), not too difficult to use, and doesn't melt or tear easily. I don't care if I can see the cables through the sleeve.
> 
> And I may get adhesive heatshrink instead of the MDPC stuff if it's cheaper. Could you tell me the pros and cons of it?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm confused? The X-Series already has a factory single sleeve over the wires, why would you want to redo it just to look basically the same?
> 
> Also the adhesive heatshrink has some good uses, from what I hear to tends to be somewhat "messy" however for a bundled single sleeve it probably wouldn't be horrible.
Click to expand...

I must have been thinking about something else, such as sleeving a future $5-$10 external PSU, or the custom length cables I mentioned.









Is the adhesive 3:1 and/or 2:1 going to hold the wires better than the MDPC 4:1 anb/or 3:1 respectively, assuming the same ID?


----------



## mordocai rp

so i got my 24 pin cable done however it looks like crap because of the double wires that kept popping out. Also when i tried to bend the cable into the mobo socket, all the paracord came unstuck to the heatshrink and slid out of it. i brought a tear to my eye, all that hard work gone


----------



## Hachi-chan

Was wondering if anyone can pass on some tips on sleeving internal front panel USB/Audio cables? I'm not sure whether if I should be taking of the plastic sleeving cover off the USB/Audio cables or just sleeve over it? I tried doing it on my 650D's front panel USB cable, but it came out as a huge mess as I cut through the silver wire lining that was over the wires! Reeeally bad idea.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> I must have been thinking about something else, such as sleeving a future $5-$10 external PSU, or the custom length cables I mentioned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the adhesive 3:1 and/or 2:1 going to hold the wires better than the MDPC 4:1 anb/or 3:1 respectively, assuming the same ID?


Adhesive lines would hold better but its messy and adds a huge bulk to the shrink, so it will be most likely that you will not get it into the connector using proper sleeving techniques. I would advise against using it as it also makes it hard to fix a mistake.

Adhesive does have its uses on certain things such as terminating a wire or shrinking the wire inside of non or semi modular psu.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> so i got my 24 pin cable done however it looks like crap because of the double wires that kept popping out. Also when i tried to bend the cable into the mobo socket, all the paracord came unstuck to the heatshrink and slid out of it. i brought a tear to my eye, all that hard work gone


Mord, if you have not checked out my paracord sleeving guide video I would suggest you give it a look. When you cut the paracord you should be hitting with a lighter to seam together the fray end of the paracord this not only creates a tiny lip for the heatshrink to grip onto but stops it from fraying. Also sometime more heat is required than just the heat to shrink the HS. You must melt a tiny bit of the sleeve underneath as well, which is why a heatgun is so important when you sleeve.

Also double wires should be split like the pics above as sleeving two pins into a small atx connector with paracord is almost impossible firstly but will always look ugly, the Y split is so that the connectors can be with one wire and still keep it uniform.

Sorry to hear about the loss of all the work although








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hachi-chan*
> 
> Was wondering if anyone can pass on some tips on sleeving internal front panel USB/Audio cables? I'm not sure whether if I should be taking of the plastic sleeving cover off the USB/Audio cables or just sleeve over it? I tried doing it on my 650D's front panel USB cable, but it came out as a huge mess as I cut through the silver wire lining that was over the wires! Reeeally bad idea.
> Thanks in advance!


You can sleeve over some of them or you can remove the connectors, If you check out my aspros mod it will give you some step by step pics of the process. Also a couple hints, removing the tinfoil may or may not be a good idea, so its up to you but you take a small risk of emi. The plastic used for the usb and front panel connectors melts extremely easy as its low temp plastic so use heat with caution. If you are heatshrinking over the connectors like I do make sure that your shrink wont interfere once you have to plug them in next to each other. When bending the clips to release the pins dont so much bend them but lift them just enough to pull out the pins (an exacto knife is perfect for this) , make sure to write down a diagram before you start so you dont mess them up.

Otherwise its a simple process, just take your time.


----------



## Hachi-chan

Thanks for the advice Lutro0! You're a great help


----------



## darksen

Do I need both THE ORIGINAL MOLEX MINI FIT JR and the Round MOLEX extracting tools? Or is one enough?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Lutro0 what would be your alternative to MDPC for black sleeve?

Thanks


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Mord, if you have not checked out my paracord sleeving guide video I would suggest you give it a look. When you cut the paracord you should be hitting with a lighter to seam together the fray end of the paracord this not only creates a tiny lip for the heatshrink to grip onto but stops it from fraying. Also sometime more heat is required than just the heat to shrink the HS. You must melt a tiny bit of the sleeve underneath as well, which is why a heatgun is so important when you sleeve.
> Also double wires should be split like the pics above as sleeving two pins into a small atx connector with paracord is almost impossible firstly but will always look ugly, the Y split is so that the connectors can be with one wire and still keep it uniform.
> Sorry to hear about the loss of all the work although
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


i did exactly that, melted the fray at end so it sticks to the wire and then put the heatshrink on it. I'll resleeve at a later time with mdpc though. I thought paracord would be nice but now am seeing a different way. It looks nice but is harder to work with. But the double wires were fixed in a way that looks aethetic, i managed to get both wires into the crimp without splicing or anything. thanks for all the info though


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darksen*
> 
> Do I need both THE ORIGINAL MOLEX MINI FIT JR and the Round MOLEX extracting tools? Or is one enough?


You will need both if you intend on doing a whole psu. The original tool is for square mini fit male and female pins and the round molex tool is for the 4pin round male and female pins.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Lutro0 what would be your alternative to MDPC for black sleeve?
> Thanks


Phew, it really comes down to preference. But for price - furryletters(barry) on ebay sells techflex clean cut in black and gray and is great stuff. If you call him he will even make it cheaper for you. Do a search on ebay for 1/8 BRAIDED EXPANDABLE SLEEVING "CLEAN CUT"
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> i did exactly that, melted the fray at end so it sticks to the wire and then put the heatshrink on it. I'll resleeve at a later time with mdpc though. I thought paracord would be nice but now am seeing a different way. It looks nice but is harder to work with. But the double wires were fixed in a way that looks aethetic, i managed to get both wires into the crimp without splicing or anything. thanks for all the info though


Bummer, when you get a chance to work with MDPC it will be a whole different animal. Much more enjoyable.


----------



## phillyd

Im going to custom sleeve my PSU! I need to know how much to get.
I think im going to do paracord. where can i buy white and royal blue paracord with paypal?
does ftwpc take paypal, and do i need special heatshrink, or can i just get it at wal mart?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Im going to custom sleeve my PSU! I need to know how much to get.
> I think im going to do paracord. where can i buy white and royal blue paracord with paypal?
> does ftwpc take paypal, and do i need special heatshrink, or can i just get it at wal mart?


Please review the link in my sig to the video guides and the faq. It will provide you with all the info you just asked for.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1122053/lutro0-customs-sleeving-tool-tutorials


----------



## thomasrs

Im thinking about sleeving front panel of nzxt phantom but Im wondering if I should sleeve combinations of wires say from teh HD Audio or do you guys think I can sleeve each wire individually? What is the best option using paracord?


----------



## BIackout

Okay guys, need some advice on sleeving color for my build.

I just bought the Asus Sabertooth Z77:


and my new RAM:


Now my predicament, do i go with MDPC-X Vanilla Sands or Combat Green, or a combo of both?



My power supply is also goldish

Thanks in advance! Also would be nice to see a pic of these two colors together if anyone has that.


----------



## axipher

Combo of both if you can incorporate that green somewhere else in your build. Only a few strands of the green though on your 24-pin, maybe only 1 or two strands on 6-pins and 8-pins.


----------



## Sir Beregond

I agree...I think a combo of the 2 would look really nice.


----------



## BlazinJoker

Here is his build on here


----------



## Buklyne

*Hi, i'm not the best in it but i think black/brown/vanilla will be great combo with your rig.







hope i helped you*


----------



## Buklyne

And Hello to everyone there


----------



## BIackout

Hey guys, thanks for the quick responses. Does anyone have a picture of the black/brown/vanilla combination?

Other sources of green in my build:
OCZ Agility 3 240GB SSD (green accents)
EVGA GTX 680 (green "GTX 680" writing on top)


----------



## phillyd

do you guys think blue/white/black paracord sleeving would look good on my build? or just blue/white. or maybe blue/white/grey, or blue/white/grey/black


----------



## Buklyne

Hi, no sorry but there is a sample of brown and vanilla on this page


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thomasrs*
> 
> Im thinking about sleeving front panel of nzxt phantom but Im wondering if I should sleeve combinations of wires say from teh HD Audio or do you guys think I can sleeve each wire individually? What is the best option using paracord?


You can do them all in one for paracord, but you will have to tape the pin ends before pushing it through. Remember to hit the ends with a lighter so they dont fray.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BIackout*
> 
> Okay guys, need some advice on sleeving color for my build.
> I just bought the Asus Sabertooth Z77:
> 
> My power supply is also goldish
> Thanks in advance! Also would be nice to see a pic of these two colors together if anyone has that.


Try to keep to a 3 color combo as those are the best looking. Gray or black always mixes well with any other 2 color combo. Personally gray black and vanilla is one of my favorites.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> do you guys think blue/white/black paracord sleeving would look good on my build? or just blue/white. or maybe blue/white/grey, or blue/white/grey/black


Same answer as above, blue/white/grey is what I would pick. This is granted your system has white and gray in it as well.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Same answer as above, blue/white/grey is what I would pick. This is granted your system has white and gray in it as well.


my build log is the first link in the sig


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> my build log is the first link in the sig


Vanilla gray black would be nice but vanilla white gray will work as well coming from your motherboard colors.

However you need to remember you are using blue leds on it essentially drowning out most of the colors, so a white, blue combo would be best appreciated with the flood of blue light hitting it. Gray could also be added to that to give a shade transition.

Does that make sense?


----------



## BIackout

hey Lutro0 do you have any pics of Combat Green/Vanilla Sands/Black or Grey?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> my build log is the first link in the sig
> 
> 
> 
> Vanilla gray black would be nice but vanilla white gray will work as well coming from your motherboard colors.
> 
> However you need to remember you are using blue leds on it essentially drowning out most of the colors, so a white, blue combo would be best appreciated with the flood of blue light hitting it. Gray could also be added to that to give a shade transition.
> 
> Does that make sense?
Click to expand...

thanks! im going to avoid the vanilla and move my lights and put them on low to avoid the "flooding"


----------



## Buklyne

Yes it does


----------



## darksen

holy, shop opened for 10minutes, barely got my stuff ordered. Can't wait to start sleeving them!


----------



## Buklyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> thanks! im going to avoid the vanilla and move my lights and put them on low to avoid the "flooding"


Good idea and even if you like to mod you can try white Leds to keep vanilla (but it's an idea from my brain lol)


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BIackout*
> 
> hey Lutro0 do you have any pics of Combat Green/Vanilla Sands/Black or Grey?


I have not done any combo with the combat green so far.


----------



## BIackout

DARN, why not? U NO LIKE DA GREEN?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buklyne*
> 
> Good idea and even if you like to mod you can try white Leds to keep vanilla (but it's an idea from my brain lol)


eh it just doesnt fit my color scheme


----------



## Buklyne

Yep


----------



## kyismaster

Don't really see many green cases either, if they are, its custom painted.










If I did green, I'd do it legit Army Green.







(( Maybe paint the Sabertooth to match, since, its the ... pretty much only paintable motherboard lol.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BIackout*
> 
> DARN, why not? U NO LIKE DA GREEN?


WHY U YELL AT THE LUTRO0! =( lol

I just havent had a job for them yet. I have used the neon green twice though.


----------



## cpachris

This thread shows pictures of my attempt to dye some white sleeving a custom color to match my upcoming build.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> This thread shows pictures of my attempt to dye some white sleeving a custom color to match my upcoming build.


interesting results


----------



## BlazinJoker

I was surprised that the sleeving was colored beyond a tint.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Don't really see many green cases either, if they are, its custom painted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I did green, I'd do it legit Army Green.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (( Maybe paint the Sabertooth to match, since, its the ... pretty much only paintable motherboard lol.


you have to use heat dispersing paint!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> you have to use heat dispersing paint!


maybe,







I mean people put stickers and crud all over their Saber's massive heatsink, so im pretty sure you can paint on it.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> maybe,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mean people put stickers and crud all over their Saber's massive heatsink, so im pretty sure you can paint on it.


the paint thats on it is made for heat dissipation, but if ur only doing the top surface, youll probably be fine.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> the paint thats on it is made for heat dissipation, but if ur only doing the top surface, youll probably be fine.


yep yep, I would never touch the PCB







thats a disaster waiting to happen.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> yep yep, I would never touch the PCB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thats a disaster waiting to happen.


i meant tops of the heatsinks


----------



## Lutro0

Busy at it again - this time with some GT fans and pinning them for some sleeving. Join @ http://www.livestream.com/lutro0

Any sleeving questions as always, are welcome!

Another great session! Thanks to all who joined. Got all the GT fans pinned and ready for some sleeving!


----------



## NuBee83

hey guys, im hoping someone here can help me... i brought 200ft of paracord on ebay and they told me that they would send me blue but instead i got 100ft of purple and 100ft of brown. would anyone be interested in buying them from me or swapping them for 200ft of blue as they are of no use to me as i only require blue for the sleeving in my pc...? by the way this is my first post on this forum and sorry if this is in the wrong section or anything...







thanks in advance.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Busy at it again - this time with some GT fans and pinning them for some sleeving. Join @ http://www.livestream.com/lutro0
> Any sleeving questions as always, are welcome!
> Another great session! Thanks to all who joined. Got all the GT fans pinned and ready for some sleeving!


I missed it!!!







I would have loved to have seen this, since I am going to sleeve my GT fans soonish . . .


----------



## mordocai rp

After sleeving my psu it no longer turns on







i guess a pin isnt crimped properly or what? theres absolutely no reaction to pressing the power button


----------



## Buklyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> After sleeving my psu it no longer turns on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i guess a pin isnt crimped properly or what? theres absolutely no reaction to pressing the power button


Don't desparate. you get all the references of your power supply if you can find wire management on the manufacturer site you will be saved


----------



## Buklyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Busy at it again - this time with some GT fans and pinning them for some sleeving. Join @ http://www.livestream.com/lutro0
> Any sleeving questions as always, are welcome!
> Another great session! Thanks to all who joined. Got all the GT fans pinned and ready for some sleeving!


:'( I missed it too. wrong timing for me


----------



## KingMaddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NuBee83*
> 
> hey guys, im hoping someone here can help me... i brought 200ft of paracord on ebay and they told me that they would send me blue but instead i got 100ft of purple and 100ft of brown. would anyone be interested in buying them from me or swapping them for 200ft of blue as they are of no use to me as i only require blue for the sleeving in my pc...? by the way this is my first post on this forum and sorry if this is in the wrong section or anything...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks in advance.


Contact the seller and get them to send the right color.


----------



## BIackout

you guys have any more advice on my color scheme for my sabertooth Z77 build? Pics are like 4 pages back if yall need to look. (Post # 6784)

Im considering:

Vanilla Sands/Combat Green/Titanium Grey

Vanilla Sands/Combat Green/ Copper Brown

Copper Brown/ Titanium Grey

Combat Green/ Titanium Grey

etc...

Any thoughts? Nils store opens in 37 minutes, hope yall can give me some advice b4 then!


----------



## phillyd

i think vanilla/green/grey


----------



## Buklyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BIackout*
> 
> you guys have any more advice on my color scheme for my sabertooth Z77 build? Pics are like 4 pages back if yall need to look. (Post # 6784)
> Im considering:
> Vanilla Sands/Combat Green/Titanium Grey
> Vanilla Sands/Combat Green/ Copper Brown
> Copper Brown/ Titanium Grey
> Combat Green/ Titanium Grey
> etc...
> Any thoughts? Nils store opens in 37 minutes, hope yall can give me some advice b4 then!


Hi, i lik the second one it look like army clothes (trellis)


----------



## audioholic

Nils is open in 9 minutes


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BIackout*
> 
> you guys have any more advice on my color scheme for my sabertooth Z77 build? Pics are like 4 pages back if yall need to look. (Post # 6784)
> 
> Im considering:
> 
> Vanilla Sands/Combat Green/Titanium Grey
> 
> Vanilla Sands/Combat Green/ Copper Brown
> 
> Copper Brown/ Titanium Grey
> 
> Combat Green/ Titanium Grey
> 
> etc...
> 
> Any thoughts? Nils store opens in 37 minutes, hope yall can give me some advice b4 then!


I love the vanilla and brown together. Might even make a noctua fan look less ugly.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BIackout*
> 
> hey Lutro0 do you have any pics of Combat Green/Vanilla Sands/Black or Grey?
> 
> 
> 
> I have not done any combo with the combat green so far.
Click to expand...

Lutro0,
Do you have any pics of vanilla and copper brown with a noctua fan? Are they a close match?


----------



## BIackout

Thanks for the input guys!

I ended up buying Black/Titanium-Grey/Vanilla Sands. I think this is gonna rock with my sabertooth board that's coming!


----------



## Buklyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BIackout*
> 
> Thanks for the input guys!
> I ended up buying Black/Titanium-Grey/Vanilla Sands. I think this is gonna rock with my sabertooth board that's coming!


Good and now waiting for sleeving


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BIackout*
> 
> Thanks for the input guys!
> I ended up buying Black/Titanium-Grey/Vanilla Sands. I think this is gonna rock with my sabertooth board that's coming!


That will look real sharp.

How long does it usually take to get an order from Nils. I placed an order last Tuesday morning the 10th, and got confirmation email that it was shipped on Wednesday the 11th. Think I'll get it this week?


----------



## BIackout

I'll be sure and take some pics throughout the process, though it will probably be with my iPhone. I know its no point and shoot







, but it does pretty well!


----------



## BIackout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> That will look real sharp.
> How long does it usually take to get an order from Nils. I placed an order last Tuesday morning the 10th, and got confirmation email that it was shipped on Wednesday the 11th. Think I'll get it this week?


Lets see... I'm from Texas, which is basically Oklahoma. I ordered mine on Tuesday the 3rd, and it shipped on the next day Wednesday the 4th. I received my package yesterday, Monday the 16th. so thats roughly 12 actual days/ the 9th business day. You will most likely get yours on the 23rd


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BIackout*
> 
> Lets see... I'm from Texas, which is basically Oklahoma. I ordered mine on Tuesday the 3rd, and it shipped on the next day Wednesday the 4th. I received my package yesterday, Monday the 16th. so thats roughly 12 actual days/ the 9th business day. You will most likely get yours on the 23rd


Thanks for info. Was hoping to play with it this weekend, but I guess Monday would still be pretty darn quick.


----------



## NuBee83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> Contact the seller and get them to send the right color.


i tried but i got no reply... and because stupid me paid by bank transfer (which i should have used my paypal acc) i cant even try to get a refund, hence why i have offered them on here


----------



## thomasrs

How does paying Nils through paypal work?


----------



## Aximous

You press pay by paypal, it takes you to the paypal site, you confirm the amount, press ok and it's done.


----------



## thomasrs

But do you have to have money in the PayPal account or can I just pay by credit card?


----------



## Buklyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thomasrs*
> 
> But do you have to have money in the PayPal account or can I just pay by credit card?


You can pay with it without you got money in your account it is directly connected with your credit card but it safe







you just have to press pay with paypal


----------



## NorthWoodPecker

Started on my first sleeve-job a few days ago











Color theme is Black/Titanium grey/Green, from MDPC-X.
Will drop by with some results later









/NwP


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorthWoodPecker*
> 
> Started on my first sleeve-job a few days ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Color theme is Black/Titanium grey/Green, from MDPC-X.
> Will drop by with some results later
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> /NwP


Great combo and always love MDPC package shots.


----------



## mortimersnerd

Paracord in its pre-sleeved stage


----------



## phillyd

gonna leave this here...
http://www.overclock.net/t/1243834/case-mod-build-log-list-by-case/


----------



## Lutro0

That time again - this time finishing sleeving those GT fans that I pinned last time. Join @ http://www.livestream.com/lutro0

As always if you have any sleeving questions feel free to join and ask.

As always great convo and great people. I look forward to another one sometime this weekend! Thanks to all who joined!


----------



## randomnerd865

I just ordered ftw paracord and some heat shrink I can't wait to try sleeving for the first time any tips with working with paracord?


----------



## phillyd

just ordered white and blue paracord and white precut heatshrink with a pin remover tool from ftw! cant wait to get sleeving.


----------



## wermad

Just getting the hang of using paracord. A little surprised on how delicate it is. It easily snags and there are fine threads that stick out, it can kink easily which leaves an impression/indentation. Its easy to stretch it and take a false measurement which leads to going short on the sleeve







. So far I've done the cpu and 24-pin cables adn I've been able to overcome some these hurdles. I'm really not happy with the shrink I got from Fry's. For some reason, it doesn't have the same bite it had before with my last sleeve project (on the wire not the sleeve).


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> That time again - this time finishing sleeving those GT fans that I pinned last time. Join @ http://www.livestream.com/lutro0
> 
> As always if you have any sleeving questions feel free to join and ask.


Great livestream! BTW, i've just asked MDPC for the datasheet on their crimper. I'm waiting for the reply now. Who should I ask for the datasheet on the cheap blue handled crimper?

And next time say my name like this: Nah Won


----------



## OverK1LL

This "blue handled crimper"?



If so, it's manufactured by http://www.hanlong.com.tw/


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverK1LL*
> 
> This "blue handled crimper"?
> *snip*
> 
> If so, it's manufactured by http://www.hanlong.com.tw/


It looks like it:

http://www.koolertek.com/computer-parts/pc/Deluxe-Molex-Pin-Crimping-Tool-161p2364.htm

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1277

http://ftwpc.com/ftw-pc-crimping-tool.html

The die picture could have been more detailed (larger):



But it should be good enough.

I don't see any datasheet though


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just getting the hang of using paracord. A little surprised on how delicate it is. It easily snags and there are fine threads that stick out, it can kink easily which leaves an impression/indentation. Its easy to stretch it and take a false measurement which leads to going short on the sleeve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . So far I've done the cpu and 24-pin cables adn I've been able to overcome some these hurdles. I'm really not happy with the shrink I got from Fry's. For some reason, it doesn't have the same bite it had before with my last sleeve project (on the wire not the sleeve).


your scarring me with your challenges. I hope ftw paracord is better and what do you mean about it stretching?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> your scarring me with your challenges. I hope ftw paracord is better and what do you mean about it stretching?


All 550 paracord has the same challenges when sleeving.

Its a nylon rope material with is soft like a shoe lace. So - because it has many many tiny strands if one of those is snagged it kinks the paracord and it wont come out, I throw those pieces away when that happens because they are toast after that happens.

Being its a soft material it promotes those problems with trying to sleeve with a product that does not expand or stretch down too much. If used right great results came come from it, but it does take more time and patience then conventional plastic sleeving.

Also note that some paracord comes furry and poorly made right from the maker, this stuff should be avoided at all costs as it looks terrible. Also there is some makers who use nylon with a sheen or glimmer that gives it a high gloss look with the same color names as the others.

If you have not had the chance give my paracord video tutorial a watch and it will explain it all in detail. (link in my sig)

Also taken from my faq is this:

Quote:


> PARACORD - Paracord sleeve is a very popular sleeving choice for those that are on a budget, however that does come at a price. Sleeving with paracord is just like sleeving with shoelaces and the material is nylon, and feels a bit like rope. Now if it is stretched right it will not feel floppy and work just fine, but you will have to take some extra time with it to make sure you get a good result.
> 
> The color choices of paracord are super abundant and you can find any color you want in at least a few shades.
> 
> Paracord comes in a few different sizes but the most popular sizes for sleeving will be 450lb paracord and 550lb paracord - the difference between the two is some extra strands in the middle of it (the core) and the 550lb being very slightly bigger. Both will work just fine for sleeving.
> 
> For finding paracord you simply need to do a search for "450 Paracord" or "550 Paracord" There is many different places to find it, and for the most part the price will be about $10-15 per 100ft roll.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> your scarring me with your challenges. I hope ftw paracord is better and what do you mean about it stretching?


I've never used it so for first timers I'm sure its uniqueness can present challenges. Now these are challenges and not obstructions









I've mainly used TechFlex CleanCut so I'm not used to paracord. I'm sleeving individual wires and in its relaxed state, I end up with a lot of slack. If you stretch it to measure and cut, you may end up short. I ended up measuring relaxed and cutting it about 1/2" short from the length of the cable. I sitll have plenty of slack when I stretched the paracord over the wire to get smooth sleeve. With too much slack in bunches up a places and looks wrinkly. My heatshrink isn't helping in this matter and I was thinking of getting 3:1 shrink but I'm already half way through my project, can't back out now









Also, Lutro covered a lot info too. Lutro is the man


----------



## Buklyne

hey guys look what i found in the post today


And before that:


----------



## Buklyne

i still waiting for some tool before sleeving whole my psu







i'm impatient


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> I've just asked MDPC for the datasheet on their crimper. I'm waiting for the reply now.


No datasheet from Nils


----------



## heatsink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buklyne*
> 
> hey guys look what i found in the post today


What in the world dude! I'm still waiting on mine should be here Wen. Looks nice.


----------



## Buklyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heatsink*
> 
> What in the world dude! I'm still waiting on mine should be here Wen. Looks nice.


Yes thanks share some pics when you get it.


----------



## strych9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buklyne*
> 
> hey guys look what i found in the post today


I'm soo jelly!
jk
Nice stuffs you got there


----------



## Buklyne

i told mysefl...... what wil l i do ??







Heatshrink cutting












it looks like eggs lol

and some more pics



some are coming soon....


----------



## Buklyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strych9*
> 
> I'm soo jelly!
> jk
> Nice stuffs you got there


thanks bro


----------



## Jobotoo

I have 36 GT fans with three wires. Which MDPC sleeving should I get to fit all three wires inside, and what size heat shrink (that will go over female 3-pin fan connector)?

If I am going to remove the wires from the fans and re-solder longer wire, would I just heat up the solder that is on there to get rid of it and get wires off, then apply new solder to new wires?


----------



## axipher

I'm going to be opening up my OCZ ZS 550W and trimming back all the wires that are not needed, but leaving enough *in case* I decide to reuse them later.

After a quick talk with the man, Lutro0, during one of his live streams, he had suggested that I look for some heat shrink with adhesive inside.

I'm looking at the following two so far, just wondering what size and shrink ratio would be the best for just wrapping the cut ends of the wires inside the PSU.

http://dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=139_193&products_id=1426

http://dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=139_193&products_id=2160


----------



## wermad

What a pita for the pcie lines. Its an ok job. The blue sleeve got tugged a bit and got pulled back. I'm really disappointed in the shrink; it easily pulls back.


----------



## BlazinJoker

I'm gonna be having some fun with these colors








Oh btw this paracord imo is really nice. It doesn't have the micro hair standing up on it or anything it has a very nice texture. I bought it from here Quick delivery to Boston


----------



## mordocai rp

hey guys, since im never on when the store opens can someone tell me how much this costs at mdpc?
1Molex crimper
1Set of crimps
20m titanium gray
10m red
10m white


----------



## Buklyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> hey guys, since im never on when the store opens can someone tell me how much this costs at mdpc?
> 1Molex crimper
> 1Set of crimps
> 20m titanium gray
> 10m red
> 10m white


Hi,
i will give it to you in euros:
1 molex crimper is 37.70
2x8€ titanium grey
8€ red and also white

for the crimps i dont know exactly but there is something like 40 pcs crimps or more of with the molex crimper


----------



## Buklyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> 
> I'm gonna be having some fun with these colors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh btw this paracord imo is really nice. It doesn't have the micro hair standing up on it or anything it has a very nice texture. I bought it from here Quick delivery to Boston


Great combo have fun to do it


----------



## Buklyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What a pita for the pcie lines. Its an ok job. The blue sleeve got tugged a bit and got pulled back. I'm really disappointed in the shrink; it easily pulls back.


Encorage youself that's your baby







but fo me it is really good work


----------



## BlazinJoker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> hey guys, since im never on when the store opens can someone tell me how much this costs at mdpc?
> 1Molex crimper
> 1Set of crimps
> 20m titanium gray
> 10m red
> 10m white


The german page is always open to browse and is practically the same in english when you have google chrome to translate.
See


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buklyne*
> 
> Encorage youself that's your baby
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but fo me it is really good work


Thank you. I think I know what my issue is. The heatshrink I'm using worked great with my old psu sleeve projects. Those I doubled the wires per sleeve. I went with single sleeve this time since the paracord was cheap but the heatshrink is not making a good shrink. I'm using 3/16" and the next smallest size my local store had was 1/8" which is too small for this sleeve. I'm using some small and thin cable ties to hold the ends and this is helping. All my cables will be tied down using anchors and cable ties eventually.


----------



## Ragsters

Im so sad that Nills doesn't sell m4 screws and washers anymore. I bought some m3 screws and washers if anyone wants to trade some. I would even buy some from anyone who had any.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Im so sad that Nills doesn't sell m4 screws and washers anymore. I bought some m3 screws and washers if anyone wants to trade some. I would even buy some from anyone who had any.


http://www.mcmaster.com/#

I buy all my custom screw from them. I bought a bunch of M4s for my SR1 rads.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#
> I buy all my custom screw from them. I bought a bunch of M4s for my SR1 rads.


Thanks but its just not the same.


----------



## wermad

The pcie were a pita. Came out ok. Time to put everything back together


----------



## Doc1355

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The pcie were a pita. Came out ok. Time to put everything back together


You should work a bit harder on that heatshrink man


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc1355*
> 
> You should work a bit harder on that heatshrink man


Its 2:1 so the bite isn't that great. Meh, I'm not anal about my sleeving. As long as it looks decent, I'm find with it. I'm not looking to win any contests or appease the sleeve die-hards







. I may switch to 3:1 later on but its been a long project and I'm glad its done. This would be my 6th sleeved psu


----------



## Buklyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The pcie were a pita. Came out ok. Time to put everything back together


houuuuuuuu yeaaarhhh!!! nice pic


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buklyne*
> 
> Hi,
> i will give it to you in euros:
> 1 molex crimper is 37.70
> 2x8€ titanium grey
> 8€ red and also white
> for the crimps i dont know exactly but there is something like 40 pcs crimps or more of with the molex crimper


is that with or without the VAT?
and is 1m of heatshrink 3€?


----------



## Buklyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> is that with or without the VAT?
> and is 1m of heatshrink 3€?


it is VAT no applicate and only the product price and without shipping price also.
Yes 1m for 3€


----------



## phillyd

just got my ftw pc package, but i forgot a pin remover









check my *build log*!


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buklyne*
> 
> it is VAT no applicate and only the product price and without shipping price also.
> Yes 1m for 3€


thanks, thats cheaper than i thought and comes with 50 of ea type of pin. time to spend $115 at mdpc lol


----------



## Buklyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> thanks, thats cheaper than i thought and comes with 50 of ea type of pin. time to spend $115 at mdpc lol


lool happy to help you bro


----------



## Doc1355

Some Sata cables and more to come


----------



## pbaines

Sleeved for a friend







my thoughts? EWW i hate the colour scheme, but thats what he wanted :L


----------



## Devious ST

Looking good









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MADworld

I've been skimming the thread but I couldn't find any guides on different ways to sleeve with no visible heatshrink or no heatshrink at all. Could someone link me some? thanks


----------



## strych9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MADworld*
> 
> I've been skimming the thread but I couldn't find any guides on different ways to sleeve with no visible heatshrink or no heatshrink at all. Could someone link me some? thanks


Paracord or MDPC-X/FTW? For paracord, 



 video should help, and for MDPC-X, this.


----------



## BlazinJoker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MADworld*
> 
> I've been skimming the thread but I couldn't find any guides on different ways to sleeve with no visible heatshrink or no heatshrink at all. Could someone link me some? thanks


Its 



 on Youtube by Robertts25


----------



## BlazinJoker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strych9*
> 
> Paracord or MDPC-X/FTW? For paracord,
> 
> 
> 
> video should help, and for MDPC-X, this.


haha dangit you beat me too it!!!


----------



## Demented

Figure I'll repost this here as well, since it was my first sleeving and all:

(Copy & pasted from my thread)

I was really interested in this idea after watching *Lutro0's videos*. He simplified everything, and explained most, if not all, of the snags and annoyances one may come across when sleeving. For that, I say thank you Lutro0!

So, I had heard about paracord and MDPC sleeve. Paracord being the cheaper, more readily available product, and MDPC being a little more expensive, while showcasing a different level of quality that is not to say better, but unique.








So I grabbed 100' of paracord to start. I had to wait a bit to get all of my sleeving tools in, but when I did, I was finally ready:

*Updated 4-21-12*





The heatshrink that I wound up using (I didn't want to wait until my shipment from MDPC came, since I was really just doing this one cable for now.), was from some kit I bought about 6 years ago. It had a few different colors, and some was tube like, and others were flattened. I used the smallest diameter black, 5/32", and crudely cut them in half. I didn't care about the evenness, since I'm probably redoing them when the MDPC shrink comes.













That tape worked rather well. It's a cloth tape for medical use. Had some in the medicine cabinet.









I got the first one done with no problems, or at least with none too severe for me.







Then I messed up 3 times on the 2nd:


After that, all went smooth until number 7. But all in all, a great run, IMO!









Half way done!




The finished product! Not too bad considering the crappy sleeve and first timer and all.


Mistakes in sleeving I was willing to live with for practice.









Actually, the pin just wasn't fully inserted on the one! Still not perfect, but better!










Uneven shrink, but again, this was practice to get the feel of it.











Overall, I was very happy with my results. I feel confident to handle the rest of my daunting task!



Peace,
Demented


----------



## MADworld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strych9*
> 
> Paracord or MDPC-X/FTW? For paracord,
> 
> 
> 
> video should help, and for MDPC-X, this.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> Its
> 
> 
> 
> on Youtube by Robertts25


Thanks to both of you, I was looking for the MDPC-X one.

Seems simple enough but will have to wait and see how much I destroy trying it







. Is that the best way to do it or is there a better way?


----------



## BlazinJoker

What am I suppose to do when ONE cable's crimp comes off? I REALLY don't want to buy a crimper and crimps...I have excess cables that I could raid though. Thanks


----------



## phillyd

pull a wire out of an excess cable, sleeve and use it.


----------



## BlazinJoker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> pull a wire out of an excess cable, sleeve and use it.



The cable is coming out of the power supply directly I might be able to solder it, but I have absolutely no experience in that realm...


----------



## phillyd

i see, cut the cable short, inside the psu, use a wire nut to attach a spare cable to it, sleeve that cable, then use it.


----------



## BlazinJoker

Cool thanks phillyd +Rep


----------



## phillyd

no problem! i salvage audio equpment a lot, so i get creative with my use of wires


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've never used it so for first timers I'm sure its uniqueness can present challenges. Now these are challenges and not obstructions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've mainly used TechFlex CleanCut so I'm not used to paracord. I'm sleeving individual wires and in its relaxed state, I end up with a lot of slack. If you stretch it to measure and cut, you may end up short. I ended up measuring relaxed and cutting it about 1/2" short from the length of the cable. I sitll have plenty of slack when I stretched the paracord over the wire to get smooth sleeve. With too much slack in bunches up a places and looks wrinkly. My heatshrink isn't helping in this matter and I was thinking of getting 3:1 shrink but I'm already half way through my project, can't back out now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, Lutro covered a lot info too. Lutro is the man


Thanks for the kind words bud!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*
> 
> I have 36 GT fans with three wires. Which MDPC sleeving should I get to fit all three wires inside, and what size heat shrink (that will go over female 3-pin fan connector)?
> If I am going to remove the wires from the fans and re-solder longer wire, would I just heat up the solder that is on there to get rid of it and get wires off, then apply new solder to new wires?


MDPC small (regular) will work just fine - MDPC sata heatshrink is what I use to go over the 3pin connector, and regular heatshrink will go over the pins without the connector. Check out the video guide I made on how to sleeve fans on my guide page.(link in sig)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I'm going to be opening up my OCZ ZS 550W and trimming back all the wires that are not needed, but leaving enough *in case* I decide to reuse them later.
> After a quick talk with the man, Lutro0, during one of his live streams, he had suggested that I look for some heat shrink with adhesive inside.
> I'm looking at the following two so far, just wondering what size and shrink ratio would be the best for just wrapping the cut ends of the wires inside the PSU.
> http://dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=139_193&products_id=1426
> http://dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=139_193&products_id=2160


As small as you can get it so that it will slide over the sleeve, but dont make it too small as the adhesive likes to be sticky and grips onto stuff, 1/4in 3:1 would be perfect for this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What a pita for the pcie lines. Its an ok job. The blue sleeve got tugged a bit and got pulled back. I'm really disappointed in the shrink; it easily pulls back.


If the shrink is only holding onto the wire the bond wont hold very well, it will work as long as you are careful with them. This is why you always want to try to get the heatshrink into the connector and onto the pin as it gives it an holding point to not slide. However for what you are doing its extremely hard - its doable just takes alot of time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> just got my ftw pc package, but i forgot a pin remover
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -snip-
> check my *build log*!


Quick tip, don't use a lighter on the white heatshrink as it will discolor very easily, and ftw pc heatshrink melts super fast as it has a low melting point and turns "gummy" (this was with the versions 1.0 sleeve so if they have changed it since then it may not apply) but any colored heatshrink should be shrunk with a heatgun or the blue part of the flame as to not leave char marks.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Figure I'll repost this here as well, since it was my first sleeving and all:
> (Copy & pasted from my thread)
> I was really interested in this idea after watching *Lutro0's videos*. He simplified everything, and explained most, if not all, of the snags and annoyances one may come across when sleeving. For that, I say thank you Lutro0!
> So, I had heard about paracord and MDPC sleeve. Paracord being the cheaper, more readily available product, and MDPC being a little more expensive, while showcasing a different level of quality that is not to say better, but unique.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I grabbed 100' of paracord to start. I had to wait a bit to get all of my sleeving tools in, but when I did, I was finally ready:
> -snip-
> Peace,
> Demented


I am glad you are getting the hang of it buddy! Keep practicing, you will find that MDPC is a dream to sleeve with compared to paracord. Good heatshrink means the whole world when you are sleeving.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> 
> What am I suppose to do when ONE cable's crimp comes off? I REALLY don't want to buy a crimper and crimps...I have excess cables that I could raid though. Thanks


In cases when you only need to do one, just use a needle nose pliers and buy a single pin or a couple and use the pliers to crimp the pin - make sure to crimp both the inside wings as well as the outside. However soldering another wire in can work as well but you might have a small bump when you soldered it in.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Quick tip, don't use a lighter on the white heatshrink as it will discolor very easily, and ftw pc heatshrink melts super fast as it has a low melting point and turns "gummy" (this was with the versions 1.0 sleeve so if they have changed it since then it may not apply) but any colored heatshrink should be shrunk with a heatgun or the blue part of the flame as to not leave char marks.


you are awesome lutro0








would a hair dryer work?
I tried my first sleeve (just an experiment) without melting the ends, and dang, the stuff disintegrates, so ill definitely be melting the ends!
any thoughts on a cutting tool i can get at like wal mart? my old wire cutter pliers (they meet, dont cross blades) just crush and spread the cord.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> you are awesome lutro0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> would a hair dryer work?
> I tried my first sleeve (just an experiment) without melting the ends, and dang, the stuff disintegrates, so ill definitely be melting the ends!
> any thoughts on a cutting tool i can get at like wal mart? my old wire cutter pliers (they meet, dont cross blades) just crush and spread the cord.


Normally I would say not a chance but knowing the low melt point of the old (current?) FtW heatshrink it just may, however please keep in mind that without a reducer you may not have the best control over where the heat gets dispersed so it could possibly melt the sleeve as well. Cant really tell you for sure as I have never tried to use one, and all blow driers have different heat outputs, so if you have some extra give it a go.









However dont come to me when your sis or mom ask what the heck your doing with their blow drier.









Please keep in mind one of the finer points of using heatshrink it to be able to melt the sleeve underneath a little to make sure it has a good bond and stays strong. So keep this in mind.


----------



## phillyd

i see...i may just pick up a heat gun.
thanks again!


----------



## Demented

Time for some practice!

At work, no less!


Portable Sleeving Unit:


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Time for some practice!
> At work, no less!
> -edit-


Oh Oh! I see something of mine.







But it might still be sweaty from your forhead.....

....and I better share the photo so its not taken out of context lol!


----------



## Ragsters

Hey Lutro! I bought one of your tools back when you first started selling them. What is the difference between those and the new ones with the 3 notches?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Oh Oh! I see something of mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it might still be sweaty from your forhead.....
> ....and I better share the photo so its not taken out of context lol!
> -snip


LOL

I figured I'd cut this other shrink a little neater, so I found something that gave me the length I think I want.

Worked pretty good:

I get three out of each piece instead of two. Much neater too!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Hey Lutro! I bought one of your tools back when you first started selling them. What is the difference between those and the new ones with the 3 notches?


The original ones where pointed more twards MDPC/paracord sleeving, as the depth is for more of an advanced sleever, most did well with it, but I wanted to allow for other types of sleeving better, so I tested a bunch of sleeve types like clean cut, kobra hd, mdpc (again), Paracord (again) and made the notches accordingly. However the first two notches can be used for most if not all sleeving types but the last two work well with 16awg wire as well as thicker types of sleeve.

Simply put, try them all and pick the one that works the best for your own personal style and ease.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Time for some practice!
> At work, no less!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Portable Sleeving Unit:


I like this alot!

im always so un-organized rofl.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Please keep in mind one of the finer points of using heatshrink it to be able to melt the sleeve underneath a little to make sure it has a good bond and stays strong. So keep this in mind.


Could you melt the sleeve underneath first, then apply the heatshrink? That way you make sure you have made a bond first?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*
> 
> Could you melt the sleeve underneath first, then apply the heatshrink? That way you make sure you have made a bond first?


You could, however the point is to use the heatshrink as the holding agent, the "melting of the sleeve" is just a tiny tiny bit to help with the inserting of the cable into the connector and give the flow out of the connector instead of a gap. If you do it the other way you may not get it into the connector with the heatshrink.


----------



## Demented

So far:




I think it looks a little better(tried to hide the writing on the shrink a little better), but this shrink is of a larger diameter, so while it might look OK, the strength isn't there.

That's what practice is all about!


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> You could, however the point is to use the heatshrink as the holding agent, the "melting of the sleeve" is just a tiny tiny bit to help with the inserting of the cable into the connector and give the flow out of the connector instead of a gap. If you do it the other way you may not get it into the connector with the heatshrink.


Thanks! I think once I start actually getting some hands on practice it will sink in more. I appreciate all the help!

On a side note, does anyone know in general how long a package from MDPC takes to get delivered? (one week, more, less?) Just curious mainly.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> So far:
> 
> 
> I think it looks a little better(tried to hide the writing on the shrink a little better), but this shrink is of a larger diameter, so while it might look OK, the strength isn't there.
> That's what practice is all about!


Damn! Those are looking so nice! The shrink size is slightly (looks like less than a millimeter) off. Anyone have a good method for cutting them exactly to length? I can see if they are exactly cut the same how LustroO's tool is so useful!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*
> 
> Damn! Those are looking so nice! The shrink size is slightly (looks like less than a millimeter) off. Anyone have a good method for cutting them exactly to length? I can see if they are exactly cut the same how LustroO's tool is so useful!


I believe they call it a jigsaw?

im not sure, I can see it in my head, but I can't put a name to it.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*
> 
> Damn! Those are looking so nice! The shrink size is slightly (looks like less than a millimeter) off. Anyone have a good method for cutting them exactly to length? I can see if they are exactly cut the same how LustroO's tool is so useful!


If you get MDPC shrink, you can get it pre cut, which is the best. Otherwise, Lutro0's videos have a easy way you can make a jig to cut it right every time.


----------



## kyismaster

heres an idea:





dont mind the trashy writing, i was gonna paint it lol.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> If you get MDPC shrink, you can get it pre cut, which is the best. Otherwise, Lutro0's videos have a easy way you can make a jig to cut it right every time.


Rgr that. I'll be watching his videos again, and I'll look for the one with the explanation on the jig.

Thanks!


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> heres an idea:
> 
> 
> dont mind the trashy writing, i was gonna paint it lol.


Thanks!







I think I get it. I'll go over some videos and see if it gets clearer.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*
> 
> Thanks! I think once I start actually getting some hands on practice it will sink in more. I appreciate all the help!
> On a side note, does anyone know in general how long a package from MDPC takes to get delivered? (one week, more, less?) Just curious mainly.


I ordered mine on a Tuesday morning....got the confirmation email the next day on Wednesday, ...and then the package came on the following Saturday. So mine took 12 days. I asked the same question about a week ago, and had a reply that his took 14 days. So that at least gives you a ball park of what to expect. Oh...and I had to be home to sign for it.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I get it. I'll go over some videos and see if it gets clearer.


yepyep.

Let me/ lutro0/ Us know if you need any help.

Note: If you make it out of wood, make sure the wood is easy to cut...

I made mines out of commercial shelving wood.... holy cow that was hard to cut. (( I used a chainsaw/ electric saw too! ))









no way i would have been able to cut it with a traditional saw.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I ordered mine on a Tuesday morning....got the confirmation email the next day on Wednesday, ...and then the package came on the following Saturday. So mine took 12 days. I asked the same question about a week ago, and had a reply that his took 14 days. So that at least gives you a ball park of what to expect. Oh...and I had to be home to sign for it.


To avoid this just leave a sign on your door that says "please leave packages at the door" and you will never have to sign for a package ever again.









-coming from the guy who gets like 10 packages a week: UPS, USPS, DHL, Fedex, ETC-


----------



## Demented

4 more done:


----------



## pbaines

^ I really do not like the shoelace look, MDPC-X is better in my looks tbh, but looking good


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbaines*
> 
> ^ I really do not like the shoelace look, MDPC-X is better in my looks tbh, but looking good


I haven't worked with MDPC yet, but I'm liking the look of para cord, though I think it may be because these cables are short. For the longer real cables, para cord does tend to look like wet spaghetti.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I haven't worked with MDPC yet, but I'm liking the look of para cord, though I think it may be because these cables are short. For the longer real cables, para cord does tend to look like wet spaghetti.


Yeah, I like paracord too, but its so much harder to work with xD

If only paracord shared the same properies as sleeve, yet looked the same









I wonder what a sleeve/ para hybrid would look like.


----------



## Lutro0

Paracord given some love, and after tons of practice can be a great alternative.


----------



## mav2000

Hey Luto, just a quick question. I have started working on heatshrink less sleeving and its going quite well if you ask me. I kid of used a lot of MDPC cut heatshrink to kind of make sure that I was shrinking it right, in terms of length. Will your sleeving tool help to kind of get the measurements and placement right when trying this method?>


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav2000*
> 
> Hey Luto, just a quick question. I have started working on heatshrink less sleeving and its going quite well if you ask me. I kid of used a lot of MDPC cut heatshrink to kind of make sure that I was shrinking it right, in terms of length. Will your sleeving tool help to kind of get the measurements and placement right when trying this method?>


Nope the tool is not gauged to be used for that method, It will only work for the heatshrink method.


----------



## SinX7

Is it hard to sleeve? :0 I want too, but it looks hard.


----------



## Demented

I still had 4 long pieces of the thinner diameter shrink, so I did two with that. Definitely makes a difference as far as grip.




Top most one in this pic


Then I cut the next shrink a little better using the clippers.



The bottom is the one previous, and the top is the one with the better cut, smaller shrink


Furthest left in this pic


Just to see how much of a difference, I'm starting on the opposite side.


----------



## Doc1355

I finished an HX1000! I like the combo


----------



## NorthWoodPecker

Looks really good, Doc








Is it shrinkless, or are they just hidden in the connectors?

/NwP


----------



## Doc1355

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorthWoodPecker*
> 
> Looks really good, Doc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it shrinkless, or are they just hidden in the connectors?
> /NwP


Τhanks man!
Heatshrinkless


----------



## phillyd

what sleeve did you use?
ill try shrinkless in white/black/grey/neon green or black/neon green/orange on my next build.
looks fantastic!


----------



## Doc1355

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> what sleeve did you use?
> ill try shrinkless in white/black/grey/neon green or black/neon green/orange on my next build.
> looks fantastic!


Thanks,its Black/B-Magic/White from MDPC-X


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Could someone point me toward working with shrinkless paracord? I just ordered my paracord for my new PSU and I'd LOVE to sleeve the puppy without any heatshrink.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Could someone point me toward working with shrinkless paracord? I just ordered my paracord for my new PSU and I'd LOVE to sleeve the puppy without any heatshrink.


lutro0 is the source. definitely ask him!
hes done it and it looks fantastic


----------



## Doc1355

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Could someone point me toward working with shrinkless paracord? I just ordered my paracord for my new PSU and I'd LOVE to sleeve the puppy without any heatshrink.


Use this way..it should be fine!


----------



## Buklyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc1355*
> 
> I finished an HX1000! I like the combo


Really good work and combo







like the shrinkless method too


----------



## Lutro0




----------



## BIackout

I'm diggin that Lutro0, very nize


----------



## karmuhhhh

Well, I finally ordered some paracord from FTW PC, and labored for about 8 hours over just 14 wires, lol! On my Seasonic X750, I had an extra PCI-E connector that I wasn't using, so I decided to sleeve that first and see how it turned out. This is the first attempt I have EVER made at sleeving, and I am pretty satisfied with the results. It's only one connector, but I think it makes my system look much better! I didn't have any proper tools at my disposal, so I used the staple method to remove the ATX pins (hurt like crazy!), a wooden ruler, scissors, and a light to burn the paracord. For what I had, I think it came out pretty good.

BTW, I have a question for you sleeving gurus: I decided to go shrink-less because I liked the look and using shrink tubing was too difficult for me, but there are four wires in my PCI-E cable that are actually two wires in one connector, sort of like a "y" shape. I couldn't figure out how to do shrink-less sleeving at the base, so on four of my connectors on the PSU side, there is some shrink tubing. Is there a way I can actually do this without shrink tubing? Please let me know! But anyway, here is the fruits of my 8-hour labor, lol:





As I said this was the first time I have ever done this, so I am VERY open to suggestions to improve the look of my sleeving!


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Could someone point me toward working with shrinkless paracord? I just ordered my paracord for my new PSU and I'd LOVE to sleeve the puppy without any heatshrink.


here watch 



 video
thats what i did and i worked great
here are some shots of mine


----------



## mav2000

Nice stuff there guys...specially Big. BTW dude, which method do you use for the shrinkless sleeving. Like I was saying earlier, I use the heatshrink burn method but am still trying to work out what the exact placement should be to get the right amount of sleeve clinging onto the pin.


----------



## Doc1355

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buklyne*
> 
> Really good work and combo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like the shrinkless method too


Thanks man


----------



## Buklyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


damn it lutroO




























amazing picture. is looks like a postal card. will it be a future combo*???


----------



## strych9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karmuhhhh*
> 
> 
> 
> As I said this was the first time I have ever done this, so I am VERY open to suggestions to improve the look of my sleeving!


I've already ordered some white paracord, but this picture makes me wanna buy some black as well. Amazing


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buklyne*
> 
> damn it lutroO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> amazing picture. is looks like a postal card. will it be a future combo*???


Nope just some fun taking photos.


----------



## randomnerd865

I started my first paracord sleeving last night and i'm doing heatshrinkless. Any tips on getting the connector back in correctly ?


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav2000*
> 
> Nice stuff there guys...specially Big. BTW dude, which method do you use for the shrinkless sleeving. Like I was saying earlier, I use the heatshrink burn method but am still trying to work out what the exact placement should be to get the right amount of sleeve clinging onto the pin.


i always just got the sleeve to right about here on the pin

and just a tip for sleeving with paracord if you have one of these tools

and unscrew the screw right here on the smaller side

it makes a really nice no-tangle tool to get it through the paracord easily 

hope that helps


----------



## axipher

Just ordered connectors from FrozenCPU









I'll be doing custom length cables, might even do white and red cabling straight form the PSU. I'll just have to make some heat-shrinked, soldered connections in the PSU itself to the new cables.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hartk1213*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mav2000*
> 
> Nice stuff there guys...specially Big. BTW dude, which method do you use for the shrinkless sleeving. Like I was saying earlier, I use the heatshrink burn method but am still trying to work out what the exact placement should be to get the right amount of sleeve clinging onto the pin.
> 
> 
> 
> i always just got the sleeve to right about here on the pin
> 
> and just a tip for sleeving with paracord if you have one of these tools
> 
> and unscrew the screw right here on the smaller side
> 
> it makes a really nice no-tangle tool to get it through the paracord easily
> 
> 
> 
> hope that helps
Click to expand...

thanks!


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> thanks!


yup no problem


----------



## wlw wl

I''ve been doing some MDPC-style sleeving, then I (basically by accident) ordered paracord instead of that, and I had to tame the paracord technique, which wasn't that easy...
But after a few days, I'm doing heatshrinkless paracord sleeving faster that looks awesome and I never want to go back to MDPC type sleeve ever again


----------



## kyismaster

give paracord some love, heres some of my practice work, with some practice paracord (( I have no clue how to describe that color )) salmon maybe?


----------



## Buklyne

Hi guys,
i began my sleeving job today cause i get my new psu in the post










there are results:




But i wasn't a pleasure to see my new (2days) flush side cutter broke







for the second cutting:

i am SO desapointed hopefully i got an other one in stock lol


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buklyne*
> 
> Hi guys,
> i began my sleeving job today cause i get my new psu in the post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> there are results:
> 
> 
> 
> But i wasn't a pleasure to see my new (2days) flush side cutter broke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for the second cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> i am SO desapointed hopefully i got an other one in stock lol


very nice! at first I was thinking " Did he sleeve a Pico Mini-ITX board? thats awesome!

haha.


----------



## Buklyne

Thanks bro i still have some work there is pci-e molex and sata to do so other upadates soon


----------



## KingMaddog

I just had a knock at my door and the mailman handed me a box with something nice inside. Time to get started on sleeving my power supply now. I will be using Hartk1213's idea for an anti tangle tool.


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> I just had a knock at my door and the mailman handed me a box with something nice inside. Time to get started on sleeving my power supply now. I will be using Hartk1213's idea for an anti tangle tool.


Sweet I'm glad I could help

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## wlw wl

Who makes that tool and where can I get it?
I mean the ATX extractor, I can't find anything decent here that's not made out of poo and doesn't cost me my arm, a leg and half a kidney.


----------



## KingMaddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Who makes that tool and where can I get it?
> I mean the ATX extractor, I can't find anything decent here that's not made out of poo and doesn't cost me my arm, a leg and half a kidney.


I bought mine on ebay for $4. I did a few pins already and had no problems. Just search for ATX pin extractor.


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Who makes that tool and where can I get it?
> I mean the ATX extractor, I can't find anything decent here that's not made out of poo and doesn't cost me my arm, a leg and half a kidney.


I got mine from frozenCPU.com here is the atx pin removal and here is the Molex male and female tool

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Buklyne

Ladies and gentlemen,
the next fight iiiiiiiiiiiissssssssss:
MDPC-X sleeving VS Original pre-sleeve cable

lol
the family grow up and now i'm glad to present to you
-pci-e sleeved:

-4+4 cpu power sleeved:

then the group:









hope you like this little update


----------



## wlw wl

Thanks for your suggestions.

Is this the same?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tool-5-ATX-Pin-Remover-/330636642948?pt=PCA_UPS&hash=item4cfb7aca84
It doesn't seem to have exchangeable tip.

I already have the Molex male and female extractor for 4-pin connectors, I only need one for ATX connectors.

Also I don't understand why the shipping takes 2-3 weeks, if my adapters get to people in USA and Canada within 7 days


----------



## KingMaddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Thanks for your suggestions.
> Is this the same?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tool-5-ATX-Pin-Remover-/330636642948?pt=PCA_UPS&hash=item4cfb7aca84
> It doesn't seem to have exchangeable tip.
> I already have the Molex male and female extractor for 4-pin connectors, I only need one for ATX connectors.
> Also I don't understand why the shipping takes 2-3 weeks, if my adapters get to people in USA and Canada within 7 days


Yes that's it I bought mine from teliperk1


----------



## wlw wl

And so would I, but
Quote:


> International First Class can take up to four (4) weeks


Quote:


> USPS Priority Mail International = US $35.07












So what, the plane flies back to the US faster, or do they take "shipping" too literally and put it on a ship?


----------



## mordocai rp

would these crimpers give a good bite?


----------



## wlw wl

Do they have anything except for those letter written on them?

I have 0,5 - 1 mm2 (which is an equivalent of an AWG18 crimp marking I think) and they are too big for Molex crimps.
I have to crimp twice, once in 0,5 - 1mm2 slot to crimp the bare wire part, then use the smaller part of the 1,1 - 2,5mm2 slot with the longer wings in the smaller part of that slot (long wings go where normally small wings for the bare wire should, bit in the bigger slot) so that they bite into the insulation of an AWG18 wire nicely.


----------



## heatsink

just received my first order from MDPC! I ordered the Grey and the Titanium just to see the difference up close. Love this stuff!! Thanks Nils

Just a few strands::


----------



## Arizonian

Hi guys,

Noob here. I'm not doing a full sleeving myself. I've ordered bitfenix white multi sleeve ATX, 6 pin, 8 pin and 2 pin cables that I will be attaching from the PSU cables routed from the back to mother board and GPU connections in front.

I've got white and I'd like to mix with lime green I will order. From what I'm gathering reading thru this thread I can change / mix the cables myself from the two different colors as long as I remove them with a pin removal tool from the connectors?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3836/too-07/FrozenCPU_Dual_Head_ATX_Connector_Removal_Tool_ATX_4-pin_P4_6-pin_PCI-E_8-pin_Xeon_Auxiliary_3-pin_or_4-pin_Fan_Flop.html?tl=g35c133s257

Is there anything or advice I should know as someone who has no clue in this process? Is there a video that shows the removal of the wire from the connector? I don't want to strip or damage them.

Going for white with a few strands if lime green to match the new lime green GTX 680 logo on the side of the GPU. May throw in one black line for color highlight.


----------



## kj1060

I finished sleeving my AX1200 and I was wondering if there was anyway to make "stress" test the cables that I have sleeved. I am fairly certain that I did everything correctly, minor testing shows the PSU still works and everything powers up, but I just want to make sure I won't damage anything. Thanks for the help.


----------



## wlw wl

Arizonian - think you will have to make your own wires, as the bitfenix premium extensions are shrinkless, with the sleeve crimped with the wire (at least that's what they say) so you can't easily remove it.

And the video is on the page you linked yourself.

kj1060 - take a volt meter and check if all voltages are where they should be, same for the ground.


----------



## kj1060

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> kj1060 - take a volt meter and check if all voltages are where they should be, same for the ground.


Thank you for the quick response. I will try this when I get home.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Arizonian - think you will have to make your own wires, as the bitfenix premium extensions are shrinkless, with the sleeve crimped with the wire (at least that's what they say) so you can't easily remove it.
> 
> And the video is on the page you linked yourself.


Thank you as well for your informative response. +1 rep when I get home. IPhone wont allow me to give rep. Saved me from damaging my cable and ordering an item I can't use.









You guys do some nice work here. WTG


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Thanks for your suggestions.
> Is this the same?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tool-5-ATX-Pin-Remover-/330636642948?pt=PCA_UPS&hash=item4cfb7aca84
> It doesn't seem to have exchangeable tip.
> I already have the Molex male and female extractor for 4-pin connectors, I only need one for ATX connectors.
> Also I don't understand why the shipping takes 2-3 weeks, if my adapters get to people in USA and Canada within 7 days


yeah that one should work but i would recommend the tool i linked to at frozenCPU.com its much better build quality i had the one you found on ebay but it didnt last long and the one from frozenCPU lasted me a whole power supply and is still like brand new plus it has two ends to it also it has on for the ATX pins and one for like fan connectors and front panel connectors etc.
plus frozenCPU is really fast when it comes to shipping i ordered mine on a Monday and received it on Wednesday


----------



## wlw wl

I'd love to get it, but I'm on the old continent, and frozenCPU wants to charge me with $134 for the shipping alone









So I'll have to find something half-decent for double the price locally apparently.


----------



## heatsink

first sata cable, for trial...


----------



## kyismaster

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812170036

are those sleeve-undercrimp extensions?






video of them


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> I'd love to get it, but I'm on the old continent, and frozenCPU wants to charge me with $134 for the shipping alone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I'll have to find something half-decent for double the price locally apparently.


OMG!!! $134 thats crazy im sorry man


----------



## wlw wl

kyismaster - I have a white NZXT 8-pin extension in my PC, apart from color it's the same as these in the video, they are the usual heat-shrink sleeving. For one client PC build I ordered the extensions by bitfenix and they were both shoelace and crimped - as far as I remember, it even said on the package that the sleeve is crimped together with the wire, not molten like you'd do with paracord. NZXT is poli(I believe)esther sleeve with heatshrink. Different sleeve and different sleeving method as well.

Hartk1213 - yes it is, I might ask a friend to buy it for me and send it not as a parcel but as a mail, like I send the voltage droppers, then it will go by plane and not on a ship, and will get to me while it's still 2012, probably...


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> kyismaster - I have a white NZXT 8-pin extension in my PC, apart from color it's the same as these in the video, they are the usual heat-shrink sleeving. For one client PC build I ordered the extensions by bitfenix and they were both shoelace and crimped - as far as I remember, it even said on the package that the sleeve is crimped together with the wire, not molten like you'd do with paracord. NZXT is poli(I believe)esther sleeve with heatshrink. Different sleeve and different sleeving method as well.
> Hartk1213 - yes it is, I might ask a friend to buy it for me and send it not as a parcel but as a mail, like I send the voltage droppers, then it will go by plane and not on a ship, and will get to me while it's still 2012, probably...


thanks


----------



## phillyd

hey guys! i need help
ive been using the sunbeamtech ATX pin remover (ik i have the right tool) and even though im using the correct method, its taking outrageous amounts of force to remove the pins from my connectors. I have 4 cuts and i havent even finished removing the wires from a 6pin gpu cable


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> hey guys! i need help
> ive been using the sunbeamtech ATX pin remover (ik i have the right tool) and even though im using the correct method, its taking outrageous amounts of force to remove the pins from my connectors. I have 4 cuts and i havent even finished removing the wires from a 6pin gpu cable










too much force = not working

Removing pins doesn't take much force. its just folding down 2 little pins lol so careful not to snap the wings.


----------



## phillyd

i understand this. its really pissing me off, i just need to know what to change.


----------



## Buklyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> i understand this. its really pissing me off, i just need to know what to change.


i know that you have a tool extrator but i used an other method to remove those pins just use staples at both sides and then take out the pin so simpli so just put you tool inside and then pull the wire and pin out. Hope i helped you


----------



## BlazinJoker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> i understand this. its really pissing me off, i just need to know what to change.


The pin's wings may just be stuck good on the connector. To help get around this problem you usually have to heat up the plastic connector with a heatgun. This should at least help everything be a bit more manageable. Hope this helps


----------



## phillyd

ive just been messing around with it, but now when i go to melt the sleeve, it crumples up. the heatshrink looks terrible.


----------



## wlw wl

Have you tried pushing the wire in and then out, after you have the tool inserted? And the tool has to go all the way in.


----------



## phillyd

yeah thats what helped me, thanks guys


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> ive just been messing around with it, but now when i go to melt the sleeve, it crumples up. the heatshrink looks terrible.


Practice makes perfect.








I guess keep watching lutro0's video's over and over. while you do it.


----------



## heatsink

Just for reference, this is what I found under the Corsairs AX1200 sleeving. Ferrite core and tiewraps. Haven't seen it posted here so I thought I would just post it.





I've heard of caps being in the line and I thought thats what I had to deal with when I looked at my Corsair supply.


----------



## kj1060

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heatsink*
> 
> Just for reference, this is what I found under the Corsairs AX1200 sleeving. Ferite core and tiewraps. Haven't seen it posted here so I thought I would just post it.
> 
> 
> I've heard of caps being inline and I thought thats what I had to deal with when I looked at my Corsair supply.






Everywhere I looked said you could remove the ferrite caps. Tested the cables via a volt/multi meter and everything seems to be working, thanks again wlw wl. Currently just using it as the psu for my linux box.


----------



## kyismaster

I think the ferrite cores are just used to suppress any type of interferance / static. (( such as when you put power cables over speaker wire ))

So, its safe to remove them if you want.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> ive just been messing around with it, but now when i go to melt the sleeve, it crumples up. the heatshrink looks terrible.


I would normally not extend such a comment, but after seeing your frustration I need to point out that if you are using FTW heatshrink (which from your log it says so I believe) that their heatshrink has a low melting point and turns almost into a gummy sticky material if you apply too much heat. Thus you will have to adjust your heatshrinking methods accordingly. My videos are made using high quality MDPC heatshrink which has a high melting point and does not turn gummy even after prolonged amounts of heat.

I would suggest possibly pre-melting the tip of the sleeve just a bit to form it down with your fingers so that you do not rely on the ftw heatshrink to melt down the sleeve, as the heatshrink will malform and give you the issues you are having.



And about ferrite beads, totally safe to remove them.


----------



## phillyd

thanks lutro0!
whats ur heat gun rated for? mines 750F/1000F


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> thanks lutro0!
> whats ur heat gun rated for? mines 750F/1000F


You know I am not sure, its packed away at this moment as I am moving, but if I remember when I was testing ftw heatshrink it barely took much even on the low setting =/


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> You know I am not sure, its packed away at this moment as I am moving, but if I remember when I was testing ftw heatshrink it barely took much even on the low setting =/


if it's the Kawasaki one, I bought the same and it's: 1500w Low temp is 375C, and high is 495C so 707F to 923F.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> You know I am not sure, its packed away at this moment as I am moving, but if I remember when I was testing ftw heatshrink it barely took much even on the low setting =/
> 
> 
> 
> if it's the Kawasaki one, I bought the same and it's: 1500w Low temp is 375C, and high is 495C so 707F to 923F.
Click to expand...

it is the kawasaki one, so low temp should be fine on mine


----------



## wlw wl

I've written a word or too on the ferrite beads and caps here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1122053/lutro0-customs-sleeving-tool-tutorials/1060
if you're interested.

Are you sure that in-line caps are actually in-line? I don't think that would make sense.


----------



## heatsink

No, your right, it wouldn't make sense. I was just worried about finding a cap in the huge bulge that Corsair had on thier cables and just found a ferrite bead instead. I knew I could remove the bead. Thanks for the cap correction.


----------



## wlw wl

I wasn't attempting to correct you, I was just thinking aloud









A capacitor connected in series creates a high-pass filter, which is the exact opposite of which you want to have on a PSU, because it would let all the ripple and noise through only shifting its phase, while cutting out the DC voltage.


----------



## heatsink

No problem. I just inserted an adjective, which I should have in the first place. Funny how sentences can have different meanings with such one small "definite article" such as the word "the". Lol, thanks.


----------



## wlw wl

Hahaha indeed, now my comments make no sense


----------



## heatsink

lol


----------



## mordocai rp

just got new sleeving, upgraded from paracord to mdpc Thank you for shopping with us. Your order information follows.

Order Items

Product = MDPC Crimping-Tool
Quantity = 1
SKU = CR-TOOL-X
Price = 46,21 €

Product = Sleeve SMALL - TITANIUM GREY
Quantity = 1
SKU = SL-S-TG
Price = 8,78 €

Product = Sleeve SMALL - RED
Quantity = 1
SKU = SL-S-RE
Price = 8,00 €

Product = Sleeve SMALL - WHITE
Quantity = 1
SKU = SL-S-WH
Price = 8,00 €

Product = Heatshrink SMALL - BLACK
Quantity = 1
SKU = HS-S-BK
Price = 2,27 €

Product = Heatshrink SMALL - WHITE
Quantity = 1
SKU = HS-S-WH
Price = 2,69 €

Product = Heatshrink SMALL - RED
Quantity = 1
SKU = HS-S-RE
Price = 2,69 €

SubTotal = 78,64 €
Shipping and Handling Fee = 18,95 €


----------



## cpachris

You'll like the MDPC-X. Just got mine last weekend also.



Love Nils personal touches!



I'm doing some experiments at custom color dyeing MDCP-X and FTW and Paracord in this thread. Check it out!


----------



## wlw wl

8,00 € for 1 meter of sleeve? Holy cow!


----------



## thomasrs

quantity 1 = 10 meters


----------



## thomasrs

and I dont think the 30 meters of sleeving you ordered will be enough to sleeve entire PSU. You will most likely need aroun 60 - 70 meters depending on PSU


----------



## wlw wl

That's more like it









45cm of 24pin alone is more than 10 meters worth of sleeve...


----------



## kyismaster

lol yeah, my PSU took 64 Meters . (( almost 30 meters for the 24 pin alone lol.


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thomasrs*
> 
> and I dont think the 30 meters of sleeving you ordered will be enough to sleeve entire PSU. You will most likely need aroun 60 - 70 meters depending on PSU


its 20m of grey, 10m of white, 10m of red. I sleeved it earlier using 40ft of grey, 20ft of red, 10ft of white paracord so this'll be enough. He charged me 19.5euro shipping though :c
edit; forgot to mention my psu cables have been cut to custom length while i sleeved with paracord


----------



## Buklyne

I'm doing mine right now and i ordered somethign like 50 meters of sleeving the 24 pin took me about 15 meters and i made 2 pci-e (with one 6+2) and a 4+4 pin cpu power it is not finished yet so i guess depending on your psu it will be enought


----------



## robert125381

just ran into these on ebay they look pretty nice and are the only dual colored presleaved kits i have seen
looks like they come in 6 8 and 24 pin
http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?item=320819184661&_trkparms=algo%3DUPI.GIROS%252BCRX%26its%3DI%252BC%252BS%26itu%3DUCI%252BUCC%252BSI%252BUA%252BLM%252BLA%26otn%3D15%26pmod%3D320883386752%26po%3D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8003774556761685060&_ssn=velocitygadgets&rt=nc


----------



## thomasrs

Yeah definitly varies a lot by PSU. MIne is a corsair tx850 and I must confess I have not fully sleeved it but I have however used about ~50 meters so I figured another 10 - 20 for full







. Before I was just trying to help you find the right amount


----------



## Doc1355

Some more pics


----------



## wlw wl

My personal opinion - the best looking sleeve jobs are those that use mostly black as canvas and some light coloring accent, like 2 outer edges in 24pin. Using so many colors makes it too dappled just like the normal orange+red+yellow+black wires...
Same applies here:
http://cdn.overclock.net/1/1c/600x450px-LL-1c2c3ab0_pc-cables-blueblack-sample-3.jpeg
http://cdn.overclock.net/2/27/600x450px-LL-27c74443_pc-cables-redblack-sample-2.jpeg
only two colors, but looks tangled and doesn't make a nice rainbow, but that's probably due to sleeve properties...


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> My personal opinion - the best looking sleeve jobs are those that use mostly black as canvas and some light coloring accent, like 2 outer edges in 24pin. Using so many colors makes it too dappled just like the normal orange+red+yellow+black wires...
> Same applies here:
> http://cdn.overclock.net/1/1c/600x450px-LL-1c2c3ab0_pc-cables-blueblack-sample-3.jpeg
> http://cdn.overclock.net/2/27/600x450px-LL-27c74443_pc-cables-redblack-sample-2.jpeg
> only two colors, but looks tangled and doesn't make a nice rainbow, but that's probably due to sleeve properties...


AHA! I come to argue with you... Just kidding. <3

But I made a small write up on colors a while ago and plan to add a larger one and wanted to add it to your statement, as I agree and disagree at the same time. It really depends on the color scheme and the internal colors.

As with the rainbow its all about the person taking the time to fix it and a large part on the maker of the extension.
Quote:


> As with color schemes 2 or 3 color schemes seem to be the best results.
> 
> I personally like 3 color as you can match your main base color (black or case color most of the time) a mid base color and then you are left with a highlight color (a color that is sparse in your case) you want the highlight color or the mid base to be the pop color.
> 
> Your two color scheme would just be a base and a mid-base or mid-base and a highlight.
> 
> Colors are all preference and there really isn't a bad combo if you follow the rules above or make sure your matching colors in your case.


Also here is a few examples:


----------



## cpachris

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> AHA! I come to argue with you... Just kidding. <3
> But I made a small write up on colors a while ago and plan to add a larger one and wanted to add it to your statement, as I agree and disagree at the same time. It really depends on the color scheme and the internal colors.
> As with the rainbow its all about the person taking the time to fix it and a large part on the maker of the extension.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> As with color schemes 2 or 3 color schemes seem to be the best results.
> I personally like 3 color as you can match your main base color (black or case color most of the time) a mid base color and then you are left with a highlight color (a color that is sparse in your case) you want the highlight color or the mid base to be the pop color.
> Your two color scheme would just be a base and a mid-base or mid-base and a highlight.
> Colors are all preference and there really isn't a bad combo if you follow the rules above or make sure your matching colors in your case.
> 
> 
> 
> Also here is a few examples:
Click to expand...





Lutro0,

Have you ever done any braiding of sleeves on your work? Thoughts on how that looks? Would love to see any pictures if you have them.

Chris


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Lutro0,
> Have you ever done any braiding of sleeves on your work? Thoughts on how that looks? Would love to see any pictures if you have them.
> Chris


I have dabbled with it, but I cant braid worth beans, this would also means a change in lengths so one day I will experiment with it,but in my typical ocd style I wont take pics of it untill I have it perfected lol.


----------



## wlw wl

Lutro0 - the ones you've shown are more pastel, subdued, (I don't know English good enough to describe what I mean







) overall much nicer. Even a little difference in the blue sleeve color saturation (or in the ISO) makes a huge difference









The second to last is MDPC and the last one is paracord, am I right?


----------



## Buklyne

Like always LutroO's amazing pics







i like it man


----------



## Buklyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc1355*
> 
> Some more pics


Nice pics i like it


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Lutro0 - the ones you've shown are more pastel, subdued, (I don't know English good enough to describe what I mean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) overall much nicer. Even a little difference in the blue sleeve color saturation (or in the ISO) makes a huge difference
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second to last is MDPC and the last one is paracord, am I right?


Yea, the exposure was set high to make the background white. Those were done using a point and shoot, and I was still ( and really still am ) learning more and more about proper macro photos and just getting used to my new T2I Cannon. I use a light box which gives me a soft light but always disliked the kinda washed look I end up getting sometimes.


----------



## wlw wl

And seeing them actually mounted in a PC would most likely yield yet another result


----------



## Lutro0




----------



## solsamurai

Ah, I see Friday night PC porn has started again.


----------



## Lutro0

Working on wires for an special order, if you have any questions or just want to hang please feel free to drop in. @ http://www.livestream.com/lutro0

Thanks to everyone who joined!


----------



## OverK1LL

you back open Lutro?


----------



## Lutro0

On a selective basis for now. I am working on a special order for someone.


----------



## cpachris

I've got some updated results on custom color dyeing sleeving, and I've used MDPC-X in the test this time. Worked out much better! Its made of a different plastic than the FTW sleeve . Thread here.


----------



## TwentyCent

Hai guises!

Kinda off-topic question. It has to do with cables, but not sleeving (that will hopefully come later







). It's pretty hard to search with Google, as the keywords are pretty hard to "get right".Anyway, the question:

I want to buy a GPU with dual 6-pin connectors. Now my PSU has a setup like this (except it's not modular...)


Will this work? I fail to see where having the connectors in serie brings more power to the card, but I am no genius about electrical stuff...

Thanks a bunch!


----------



## OverK1LL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> On a selective basis for now. I am working on a special order for someone.


oh. gotcha. I got all excited thinking I was going to get some new cables. lol. Don't want to rush you, obviously health and sanity come first! hahaha


----------



## Lutro0

Two of lutro0s favorite things....


----------



## solsamurai

Awesome.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> 
> 
> Two of lutro0s favorite things....


MDPC should Hire you as their product advertiser







always with these amazing shots.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Awesome.











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> MDPC should Hire you as their product advertiser
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> always with these amazing shots.


Hah, it helps me get used to my new camera, and its fun as well. I had my point and shoot down pat for taking my sleeving photos, but my T2I is taking a bit more work getting used to.


----------



## Demented

It came it came!




Woo Hoo!

Too bad I came home to a blown hot water heater and water all over my basement.









Ah well, like I'm always telling my sister: Ya gotta roll with it.









EDIT: Hadn't realized it at first, but this is the second order I placed with MDPC. Is that a bad thing when the second comes before the first?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Too bad I came home to a blown hot water heater and water all over my basement.


Same thing happened to me last year. I woke up and found a small puddle forming in my basement. The scary thing was that I had over $5k in electronic equipment sitting there. But luckily I had moved it a day prior to the other side of the basement since it was getting in the way.

Anyways, best of luck with you. Hopefully it didn't cause a lot of damage.


----------



## noob.deagle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Hai guises!
> Kinda off-topic question. It has to do with cables, but not sleeving (that will hopefully come later
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). It's pretty hard to search with Google, as the keywords are pretty hard to "get right".Anyway, the question:
> I want to buy a GPU with dual 6-pin connectors. Now my PSU has a setup like this (except it's not modular...)
> Will this work? I fail to see where having the connectors in serie brings more power to the card, but I am no genius about electrical stuff...
> Thanks a bunch!


these work fine, i use one cable like this for each of my GTX570's its ok to run 1 card off of 1 of these cables.


----------



## Lutro0




----------



## Buklyne

awesome!!!!


----------



## RushMore1205

Sorry for crappy phone pics


----------



## randomnerd865

Just finished my two six pins for my GPU with heatshrinkless parachord and for my first time it turned out Great (I think) Im finally getting the hang of it and next is the 24 pin. Pics coming in a bit.








Edit: As promised








The tools of the trade









dual 6 pin pics 

Special Thanks goes out to Lutro0 for all his Vids, guides, and online webcast which I anonymously attend thanks for the motivation to start sleeving.


----------



## mordocai rp

hey guys, in my psu i have a wire that was 6+2 for a gpu, is it possible to re crimp the +2 portion of it with my own 16awg wire?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Just finished my two six pins for my GPU with heatshrinkless parachord and for my first time it turned out Great (I think) Im finally getting the hang of it and next is the 24 pin. Pics coming in a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: As promised
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tools of the trade
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dual 6 pin pics
> Special Thanks goes out to Lutro0 for all his Vids, guides, and online webcast which I anonymously attend thanks for the motivation to start sleeving.


Thanks bud, thats the whole point of why I do it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> hey guys, in my psu i have a wire that was 6+2 for a gpu, is it possible to re crimp the +2 portion of it with my own 16awg wire?


Should be able to do that just fine as they are grounds, however the more important question before I just say yes, is why are you recrimping them.


----------



## RushMore1205

because he thinks it looks like S$%* when he sleeves, i bet its the same as my 6+2 on the bench build i just posted, i actually thought it looks cool with the loops, its a pain to sleeve since nothing fits inside the connector but you can make it work nicely


----------



## Demented

Some of my practice work from last night. First time with MDPC:



Heatshrink slipped a little I assume..

It was a bit harder to get the hang of than para cord, IMO. It's a totally different animal, so learned skills have to be adapted. But I'm getting the hang of it, and l know the areas I need more work in.

I was about to throw in the towel a few times, but persistence did pay off, as I learned how to deal with a few annoyances I came across. It all helps in the end.

Anyone reading, and not sure? I say go for it! It may be frustrating at times, but if you are really into it, and take the time, you can make it look amazing!


----------



## Sevada88

Just a few shots of my attempt at cable sleeving. I'll probably end up re-doing some of them since I want it to be near perfect.


















Sleeving the cables is the easy part; once you have done a few, it goes fast. Removing the pins on the other hand gives me headache. Some of them just don't want to come out! I end up bending or breaking the little notches on the pins, even with proper tools. So if you have any advice or a better way to remove the pins properly, please let me know. I have a pin remover and I tried with paper clips.


----------



## randomnerd865

I am a first time sleever and I must say honestly if you have a decent tool getting the pins out is the easiest part. You just push it in till you can tell the pins are pressed back and just pull out on the connector.


----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> I am a first time sleever and I must say honestly if you have a decent tool getting the pins out is the easiest part. You just push it in till you can tell the pins are pressed back and just pull out on the connector.


Easier said than done from what I have experienced. I have the MDPC pin remover, some pins come out easily, but most are very hard. If I am able to get one of those hard ones out, I either break or bend one of the notches. I watched Lutro's videos and did what he said, but some just don't want to come out. I even tried to push the tool and the cables to different directions...maybe it's just me.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> Easier said than done from what I have experienced. I have the MDPC pin remover, some pins come out easily, but most are very hard. If I am able to get one of those hard ones out, I either break or bend one of the notches. I watched Lutro's videos and did what he said, but some just don't want to come out. I even tried to push the tool and the cables to different directions...maybe it's just me.


Some pins are non molex pins and tend to dig into the plastic housing, one of the best ways to remove a pin is to push the wire up and then insert the tool down so you are undigging the wings from the plastic. Once you are sure its pushed as far as you can you need to yank pretty hard on them.

When I worked on seasonics and enermaxes I always had cuts from the edge of the connectors, its just how they are made.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> Easier said than done from what I have experienced. I have the MDPC pin remover, some pins come out easily, but most are very hard. If I am able to get one of those hard ones out, I either break or bend one of the notches. I watched Lutro's videos and did what he said, but some just don't want to come out. I even tried to push the tool and the cables to different directions...maybe it's just me.


My biggest difficulty is getting the tool properly around the pin. Once you have that, it's just a firm push in, hold, and pull the wire.









Did a little before bed...getting a little better at measuring, and heating up just enough to slide it in well.







Still have lots to learn though...





After that, I had to crash! But I'll be lugging it all into work again, and practicing some more tonight!


----------



## HOTDOGS

Would someone be willing to sleeve my PSU or point me in the direction of where I can have it sleeved? How much would it cost as a rough idea with and without labour?


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Thanks bud, thats the whole point of why I do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be able to do that just fine as they are grounds, however the more important question before I just say yes, is why are you recrimping them.


because i originally cut them off out of frustration of not being able to sleeve it


----------



## wlw wl

Just ordered some goodies and soon I should be able to post my first big caliber sleeving - so far I've only done sleeving on the Corsair H100/H80 adapters that I provide.
Now I'm going to make myself a 24-pin and a 6-pin extensions for starters and see how that turns out







Some mixture of black, blue and white, not yet sure what exactly.


----------



## Sevada88

Guys, I need some help...sleeving wasn't as easy as I thought it would be. I got frustrated because the pins were really hard to get out and messed up a few things; crushed 1 pin, broke a few notches, accidentally cut one of the finished sleeves trying to get a pin out...

I was taking out 1 pin at a time, but being frustrated and all, I took out 2 of them and don't remember which one goes where (yes I am noob.)

So, can anyone help me?

EDIT: the image was wrong!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> Guys, I need some help...sleeving wasn't as easy as I thought it would be. I got frustrated because the pins were really hard to get out and messed up a few things; crushed 1 pin, broke a few notches, accidentally cut one of the finished sleeves trying to get a pin out...
> I was taking out 1 pin at a time, but being frustrated and all, I took out 2 of them and don't remember which one goes where (yes I am noob.)
> So, can anyone help me?


If you can tell us which end and which cables they are we can get you a pinout.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> Guys, I need some help...sleeving wasn't as easy as I thought it would be. I got frustrated because the pins were really hard to get out and messed up a few things; crushed 1 pin, broke a few notches, accidentally cut one of the finished sleeves trying to get a pin out...
> 
> I was taking out 1 pin at a time, but being frustrated and all, I took out 2 of them and don't remember which one goes where (yes I am noob.)
> 
> So, can anyone help me?


This should help you out:

http://www.allpinouts.org/index.php/EPS12V_-_EATX12V_8_pin

Jump your PSU with a paper clip and use a voltmeter to measure the unknown wire(s).


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

i finally got everything today









60 meters of Furry Letters sleeving and 3 meters of FTW heat shrink


Tools







yes that is a real scalpel







, got the pin removers from FTW to










Sorry crappy cell fone pics


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> This should help you out:
> http://www.allpinouts.org/index.php/EPS12V_-_EATX12V_8_pin
> Jump your PSU with a paper clip and use a voltmeter to measure the unknown wire(s).


If the pinout on the psu is different that wont help him fully, he needs to share his power supply and other info. Not all powersupplies keep the same pinout on both sides. Granted if thats a psu power (which it looks to be) hes covered on the motherboard side as thats standard.

Best thing for him to do is look up his powersupply from his manufacturer (website) and look for a manual with a pinout or contact them for one. (this is granted the side he forgot is the powersupply side)

However, if the powersupply shows the colors of the wires he can follow the color pattern and be ok, (yellow black) But some PSUs come in all black and even if it wasnt he would still want to check the pin out.

Granted a voltmeter is a great idea, but again all pinouts can be gotten from the PSU maker and its much safer that way.

Otherwise hes golden.

Have to be careful when giving advice to newish sleevers as sometimes this info is not known and could potentially damage their powersupply if they try the same pinout on both sides.

But that is a great site with lots of good info.


----------



## SimpleTech

Oh crap, good point. I thought pic 1 and 2 were the same thing but different angles.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Oh crap, good point. I thought pic 1 and 2 were the same thing but different angles.


No worries.







The fact that you took the time to help says alot.


----------



## Demented

So I guess muscle pain and cramps in one's hands is just like any other exercise?









No pain, no gain!


----------



## Sevada88

Thanks for the replies guys!

I have a Seasonic X-660. This is a photo I took right before sleeving the CPU power cable. I should have made a pin layout but I was going to remove 1 pin at a time to save myself some headache....didn't work.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> Thanks for the replies guys!
> I have a Seasonic X-660. This is a photo I took right before sleeving the CPU power cable. I should have made a pin layout but I was going to remove 1 pin at a time to save myself some headache....didn't work.
> -snip-


Well the photo tells you everything you need. The only specific pinout that could get confusing is the 24 pin. The rest just seem to be one of 4 different colors. As long as all of the topmost (where the clip is) pins are your yellow ones, and the black ones are on the bottom, you should be fine.

Finished up my two practice extensions last night. Still have some things to tweak, but definitely getting the hang of it better than the night before.






MDPC VS Para Cord (Para cord was still done with old crap shrink, just wanted to compare before I did the 8 pin extension.)


----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Well the photo tells you everything you need. The only specific pinout that could get confusing is the 24 pin. The rest just seem to be one of 4 different colors. As long as all of the topmost (where the clip is) pins are your yellow ones, and the black ones are on the bottom, you should be fine.
> Finished up my two practice extensions last night. Still have some things to tweak, but definitely getting the hang of it better than the night before.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MDPC VS Para Cord (Para cord was still done with old crap shrink, just wanted to compare before I did the 8 pin extension.)


So you are saying that as long as the yellow ones are in the top (where the clip is) and the black ones are on the bottom, I should be good? I don't need to connect a specific pin on the PSU to a specific pin on the motherboard?

Sorry I am new to this kind of things. On the one hand I am happy it happened to me, because now I get to learn new things but on the other hand, this is very confusing stuff.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> So you are saying that as long as the yellow ones are in the top (where the clip is) and the black ones are on the bottom, I should be good? I don't need to connect a specific pin on the PSU to a specific pin on the motherboard?
> Sorry I am new to this kind of things. On the one hand I am happy it happened to me, because now I get to learn new things but on the other hand, this is very confusing stuff.


I am new as well, but from what I've learned, as long as you put the same color wire that was there in the first place, it doesn't matter if it was that specific wire that was there.

If I'm wrong, then I must have learned something wrong.







So don't take my word for granite, since I'm new as well. IMO the only wires that are very important to write the pin outs for, and know what goes where, is the main 24 pin connector.


----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I am new as well, but from what I've learned, as long as you put the same color wire that was there in the first place, it doesn't matter if it was that specific wire that was there.
> If I'm wrong, then I must have learned something wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So don't take my word for granite, since I'm new as well. IMO the only wires that are very important to write the pin outs for, and know what goes where, is the main 24 pin connector.


Okay that sounds easy enough. I'll just wait for some more replies and hopefully we both can learn something


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> Okay that sounds easy enough. I'll just wait for some more replies and hopefully we both can learn something


Yea, I always make a pin out for most of the wires when I sit down to to an OEM job or have one on hand, but the pic clearly shows yours 12v on top and ground on the bottom, as long as a yellow goes to a yellow and a black goes to a black you will be fine.









To be clear when in doubt double check the pin out provided by the maker.

This rule can be used to clean up pcie cables as well. But some psu makers use their own pin outs (mostly on the 24 pin) but I have seen some crazy pin outs on the other ones as well.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Yea, I always make a pin out for most of the wires when I sit down to to an OEM job or have one on hand, but the pic clearly shows yours 12v on top and ground on the bottom, as long as a yellow goes to a yellow and a black goes to a black you will be fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This rule can be used to clean up pcie cables as well. But some psu makers use their own pin outs (mostly on the 24 pin) but I have seen some crazy pin outs on the other ones as well.


Ooh! Ooh! I was right! Do I get a cookie?

EDIT: I love your new user title Lutro0!

And the Lord said, let there be sleeve...and there was...and it was good.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Ooh! Ooh! I was right! Do I get a cookie?
> EDIT: I love your new user title Lutro0!
> And the Lord said, let there be sleeve...and there was...and it was good.


Haha, well it popped up on a live stream and I liked it enough to make it stick.


----------



## Sevada88

Thank you guys, appreciate all the help!

Some crappy photos from my progress.


























I had to put my PC back together because sleeving all the cables will take some time and I need to finish some work. So for the time being, this is what my PC will look like.


















(I really need a new camera...)


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> Thank you guys, appreciate all the help!
> 
> Some crappy photos from my progress.
> 
> -snip-
> 
> I had to put my PC back together because sleeving all the cables will take some time and I need to finish some work. So for the time being, this is what my PC will look like.
> 
> -snip-
> 
> (I really need a new camera...)


Looks good to me! Love that case too!


----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Looks good to me! Love that case too!


Thanks man! I love this case, I can look at it all day long and not get bored by it.

I also removed part of the PCI-E cable, man those pins came out easily! I removed 6 pins in less than 20 second...I don't know why the CPU cable was so thought to work on.

More photos soon!


----------



## phillyd

finally got some good shots of my rig, and i started sleeving, heatshrinkless thanks to *skitzab1*


----------



## HOTDOGS

This may or may not be the place to post this, but I need help ASAP.

So I want to run 2 blademasters off of my Antec H20 620 in PWM. How do I go about doing this? I have several fan PWR header on my board but only one PWM. The power connector for the pump is only 3 pins and I have it plugged into my 4pin PWM header. If I try to switch it to a simple 3pin PWR header, I get an error that won't allow me to boot up. What gives and what do I need to do to be able to run the two fans on PWM and the pump on PWR?


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> This may or may not be the place to post this, but I need help ASAP.
> So I want to run 2 blademasters off of my Antec H20 620 in PWM. How do I go about doing this? I have several fan PWR header on my board but only one PWM. The power connector for the pump is only 3 pins and I have it plugged into my 4pin PWM header. If I try to switch it to a simple 3pin PWR header, I get an error that won't allow me to boot up. What gives and what do I need to do to be able to run the two fans on PWM and the pump on PWR?


PWM spliter for the fans.


----------



## Lutro0

I will be livestreaming tonight, working on taking apart a semi-modular powersupply and getting it ready for some powdercoating.

And as always answering any sleeving questions!

Join me @ www.livestream.com/lutro0

Thanks to all that joined, got allot of work and talking done lol


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> PWM spliter for the fans.


I got that much. But why won't it run off a 3pin PWR header and only a 4pin PWM header when it's a 3pin connector? If I have the PWM splitter in the PWM header, will the pump 3pin connector work in the 3pin header?


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> I got that much. But why won't it run off a 3pin PWR header and only a 4pin PWM header when it's a 3pin connector? If I have the PWM splitter in the PWM header, will the pump 3pin connector work in the 3pin header?


I'd take a look in the BIOS and make sure you don't have any of the fan power settings disabled. While you're in there make sure the PWM settings are correct as well.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Fixed, I just turned off all fan monitoring for now.


----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> finally got some good shots of my rig, and i started sleeving, heatshrinkless thanks to *skitzab1*
> 
> - Snip -


How do you do that? Do you place the sleeve into the crimp and then push down the channel folding?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> How do you do that? Do you place the sleeve into the crimp and then push down the channel folding?


No. AFAIK, you melt the end of the sleeve directly to the wire, at the preferred spot. Then just slide it in like normal.


----------



## pbaines

Latest job to a customer names Ben;
Black sleeving and Black heatshrink

I think it has come out very good indeed !!
Unfortunately my camera was not being the kindest to me and was blurring shots, but hey, is good enough !! and you can see the work







will get my camera fixed next photo shoot


----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> No. AFAIK, you melt the end of the sleeve directly to the wire, at the preferred spot. Then just slide it in like normal.


Hmmm I can imagine it's not very tight then.


----------



## wlw wl

MDPC-X sleeve melts together with the wire insulation, paracord just sticks to the crimp. I don't know about MDPC, but paracord made that way won't move anyway no matter how much you pull on it. You would rather pull the wire out of the crimp before the sleeve lets go.


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> Hmmm I can imagine it's not very tight then.


Its actually very tight if done right. Better than heat shrink I think.


----------



## wlw wl

I can tell you for sure that with paracord done right, it's much stronger than crimping the sleeve with the wire. Much, much stronger, I wasn't able to remove the sleeve while you can pull the wire and the sleeve from the crimp quite easily (that's why I gave up on crimping sleeve).


----------



## axipher

Got a box of parts from FrozenCPU last night, now just need to order the sleeving...


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbaines*
> 
> Latest job to a customer names Ben;
> Black sleeving and Black heatshrink
> I think it has come out very good indeed !!
> Unfortunately my camera was not being the kindest to me and was blurring shots, but hey, is good enough !! and you can see the work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will get my camera fixed next photo shoot


Good work! But be careful about posting that its customer work and using your website addy in your sig as you need to have an artisan or vendor account to sell/advertise on OCN.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> Hmmm I can imagine it's not very tight then.


Actually if done right it will hold more than heatshrink.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Its actually very tight if done right. Better than heat shrink I think.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> How do you do that? Do you place the sleeve into the crimp and then push down the channel folding?
> i melt it repeatedly to the wire, it is difficult and yields mixed results but looks great, i havent


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> No. AFAIK, you melt the end of the sleeve directly to the wire, at the preferred spot. Then just slide it in like normal.


exactly
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> Hmmm I can imagine it's not very tight then.


skitzab1's work on it is very strong. most of mine, however, not so much.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> MDPC-X sleeve melts together with the wire insulation, paracord just sticks to the crimp. I don't know about MDPC, but paracord made that way won't move anyway no matter how much you pull on it. You would rather pull the wire out of the crimp before the sleeve lets go.


yeah skitzab1 was showing me via stream and was showing how strong the hold was, and broke the crimp, the sleeve still held on.


----------



## Lutro0




----------



## Buklyne

How can you do those amazing pics LutroO????


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buklyne*
> 
> How can you do those amazing pics LutroO????


Lots of practice and much more needed.

Also, Running another livestream while I work. If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask or just hang out! Join @ http://www.livestream.com/lutro0

Thanks to all that joined.


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


What Sleeving is this? can you send me link plz?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> What Sleeving is this? can you send me link plz?


Looks like MDPC. You can check out the *international site*, but it's only open for short periods each day, and they are random. However, Nils, the owner, states what time and day on the website. If you want to browse the products somewhat, you can go to the *German site*.

There is a guide on how to properly get an order in, if you wish. There's a knack to it since it's open for short periods. You can find that guide *HERE*.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

i need help bad i sleeved my 24 pin and did the cords 1 at a time and put them back in the right spots but now my pc wont boot at all im really stressin out bout it :\. its the psu in my sig

thanks


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> i need help bad i sleeved my 24 pin and did the cords 1 at a time and put them back in the right spots but now my pc wont boot at all im really stressin out bout it :\. its the psu in my sig
> thanks


Does it turn on at all? Did you remember to hit the switch on the PSU to on? Is your 4-pin/8-pin plugged in?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

it turns on for a second then off again. psu doenst have a switch and 8pins connected

Edit: i think i stuffed up the damn pins :\


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> it turns on for a second then off again. psu doenst have a switch and 8pins connected
> Edit: i think i stuffed up the damn pins :\


Stuffed up, as in wrong order?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

i think it was the order and the empty pin seems wrong


----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those look nice! Do you have a tutorial on how to do it like that?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> i think it was the order and the empty pin seems wrong


Ah, well at least you've found your mistake. Something I've done since the beginning is always draw out the pinout. It just is the best insurance.









Good luck with getting it working!


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

coz my psu is modular if i just copy the connector that goes in the psu will the mobo connector be right?


----------



## wlw wl

Not necessarily, the ATX 24-pin has always the same pinout and you need to find the pinout for your PSU for the other end.

I just received all my goods - sleeves, connectors etc. and was just about to start my first big sleeving, but as it turns out my crimping tool won't crimp ATX/PEG pins correctly







I thought they would be the same as the 5,25" Molex pins but they aren't, so I'm screwed big time


----------



## Sybr

After a LOT of leeching on the forum, I decided to share a little of my own sleeving experience.

I bought "FlexSleeve" branded sleeving (looks like Kobra sleeving) and 3:1 6mm heatshrink in a local PC modding/WC shop. Cut the heatshrink to 15 mm pieces with a large knife.




Some of the tools I used:





Notice the trusty swiss pocket knife, it has amazingly sharp scissors. The pliers are used in conjunction with the staples to remove pins.

Unfortunately, the heatshrink doesn't fit inside the ATX connector housing







, so I had to revert to the heatshrinkless MDPC-X method.



I used small pieces of heatshrink to tighten the edge of the sleeve while it was being melted with a lighter, which I then removed to make the sleeve fit inside the connector housing.

And here are some of the results:





So as you can see, the sleeving isn't as good as MDPC-X, it still shows some of the wire's color in close-up shots. But I'm happy with it, as it is my first psu sleeving job


----------



## Sevada88

I find staples to work better than pin remover tools. Well done! But too bad the cable is showing.


----------



## Buklyne

Year true sevada that's what i used for my project









Did you stretch it well Sybr????


----------



## Sybr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buklyne*
> 
> Did you stretch it well Sybr????


Yes, it's super-tight. I watched all of LutroO's video's and practiced beforehand. The sleeving just isn't as good as Mdpc stuff.

Too bad when you compare it's price vs. mdpc: (€6,5 vs. €8,82 for 10 m), I would have expected a little better.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> What Sleeving is this? can you send me link plz?


Its MDPC and looks like demented gave you all the info you need!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> Those look nice! Do you have a tutorial on how to do it like that?


I run livecasts and give as much details as I can, but the actual video guide will come out when I get moved into my new house which will be a week or two.


----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Its MDPC and looks like demented gave you all the info you need!
> I run livecasts and give as much details as I can, but the actual video guide will come out when I get moved into my new house which will be a week or two.


Looking forward to it!


----------



## PCModderMike

Hi guys. So total nubs here when it comes to custom sleeving...just looking for a little advice. I have an extra set of cables that comes off an AX850 to practice with. I'm interested in single sleeving the whole set, just a few questions though if ya don't mind.
1 - Does that cart look OK to start with? Like do I have too much or too little sleeving/heatshrink?
2 - Single sleeving does in fact use 1/8" right?
3 - Are the pin removal tools worth it?
4 - Heatgun or lighter? Does it matter?

As far as technique and actual application, I think I know where to start, I'm subbed to Lutro0's YouTube channel and I have found that to be a great resource. So yea just looking for some help, thanks!


----------



## Buklyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sybr*
> 
> Yes, it's super-tight. I watched all of LutroO's video's and practiced beforehand. The sleeving just isn't as good as Mdpc stuff.
> Too bad when you compare it's price vs. mdpc: (€6,5 vs. €8,82 for 10 m), I would have expected a little better.


year too bad :s but if you like it it's principal no??


----------



## wlw wl

Here is my first serious sleeving done - 6-pin extension, excuse the crappy photo, I don't have any decent camera - taken with a cellphone:










That was a practice before starting the 24-pin, but it's gonna be a real pain because my tool doesn't crimp ATX pins properly.

PCModderMike - a few pages back you can see that Kobra sleeve isn't dense enough to cover colored wires. And I think that 30 meter, if these are meters, might not be quite enough for a complete PSU sleeving. 30cm 42-pin extension alone is more than 7 meters long worth of sleeve.

With lighter, you have to be careful no to burn the heatshrink, don't actually put anything in the flame, use the stream of hot air above the flame to shrink and melt the sleeve.

I have the same extraction tool ordered, awaiting delivery.

Yes, for 18 AWG wire you want to use 3mm - 3,5mm sleeve, that's 1/8". As for the heatshrink, you need something like 1/4" 2:1 or smaller than 3/8" if it's 3:1.
I believe the 1/8" heatshrink you have there will not go over the sleeve, and just barely over the wire.

BTW are you the same PCModderMike who tested the first MNPCTech full acrylic 600T panel?


----------



## Buklyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buklyne*
> 
> Hi guys,
> i began my sleeving job today cause i get my new psu in the post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> there are results:


What do you think about my sleeving job lutroo?

and when i told you it broke there is a pic of it :s
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buklyne*
> 
> But i wasn't a pleasure to see my new (2days) flush side cutter broke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for the second cutting:
> 
> i am SO desapointed hopefully i got an other one in stock lol


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Here is my first serious sleeving done - 6-pin aextension, excuse the crappy photo, I don't have any decent camera - take with a cellphone:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was a practice before starting the 24-pin, but it's gonna be a real pain because my tool doesn't crimp ATX pins properly.
> PCModderMike - a few pages back you can see that Kobra sleeve isn't dense enough to cover colored wires. And I think that 30 meter, if these are meters, might not be quite enough for a complete PSU sleeving. 30cm 42-pin extension alone is more than 7 meters long worth of sleeve.
> With lighter, you have to be careful no to burn the heatshrink, don't actually put anything in the flame, use the stream of hot air above the flame to shrink and melt the sleeve.
> I have the same extraction tool ordered, awaiting delivery.
> Yes, for 18 AWG wire you want to use 3mm - 3,5mm sleeve, that's 1/8". As for the heatshrink, you need something like 1/4" 2:1 or smaller than 3/8" if it's 3:1.
> I believe the 1/8" heatshrink you have there will not go over the sleeve, and just barely over the wire.
> BTW are you the same PCModderMike who tested the first MNPCTech full acrylic 600T panel?


Hey that looks good, what sleeving is that? I wanted to start with Kobra in case I mess up, all the wires on the AX850 are black anyway so it probably wouldn't look too bad if a little showed through. And that's actually feet, so that must be very little then? Thanks for the advice with the lighter, and especially the heatshrink, I thought you had to match it up, good thing I asked. And yes that was me who had the MNPCTech 600T acrylic side panel.


----------



## Sevada88

Question about the 24 pin cable. It has a specific pinout on the motherboard so messing up the wires is not a good idea, but does it matter which cable goes where on the PSU itself?


----------



## wlw wl

As far as you connect 3,3 to 3,3 and +5VSB to +5VSB etc. then you'll be fine, they are all coming together in the PSU after all.

PCModderMike - that's paracord, cheap, super-dense (like no other sleeve, really) and strong. And you can do heatshrinkless sleeving with it really easily. And comes in a million of colors. And is nice and soft, not stiff like other sleeves. And, and, and.... I just like it very much









30 feet is what, 10 meters? That won't even cover 45cm (17") of the 24-pin bunch, let alone all the other wires. The 30cm (12") 6-pin extension on the photo is 6 feet of sleeve... so yeah, you need a lot









That review made me design and cut my own acrylic 600T panel, and I was watching it again and again picking up the little details about that piece


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> As far as you connect 3,3 to 3,3 and +5VSB to +5VSB etc. then you'll be fine, they are all coming together in the PSU after all.
> PCModderMike - that's paracord, cheap, super-dense (like no other sleeve, really) and strong. And you can do heatshrinkless sleeving with it really easily. And comes in a million of colors. And is nice and soft, not stiff like other sleeves. And, and, and.... I just like it very much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 30 feet is what, 10 meters? That won't even cover 45cm (17") of the 24-pin bunch, let alone all the other wires. The 30cm (12") 6-pin extension on the photo is 6 feet of sleeve... so yeah, you need a lot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That review made me design and cut my own acrylic 600T panel, and I was watching it again and again picking up the little details about that piece


i fully sleeved my psu with 30m of sleeve


----------



## wlw wl

...which is almost a 100 feet, not 30 feet like Mike had in the basket.


----------



## BlazinJoker

Hey, has anyone tried sleeving a SATA power cable? I'm just wondering cuz I have no idea how to get the end connector off...

Oh and might as well show my own progess











So OCN whad'ya think so far?


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> Hey, has anyone tried sleeving a SATA power cable? I'm just wondering cuz I have no idea how to get the end connector off...
> 
> Oh and might as well show my own progess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So OCN whad'ya think so far?


on the sata connector that top hat pops off, then you just pull the cable out of the pins.

its l;ike you are punching down ehternet in the patchpanels


----------



## Buklyne

HI you see the pin inside of the connector just push up the little lip on the top and took the pin out. for sleeving it is the same way like atx, eps , molex plugs







hope you get it


----------



## BlazinJoker

Oh duh, haha thanks Rushmore, and buklyne!


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> ...which is almost a 100 feet, not 30 feet like Mike had in the basket.


i cant believe i misread feet and meters... its worse cause i live in the us too lol


----------



## og4tcm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> Hey, has anyone tried sleeving a SATA power cable? I'm just wondering cuz I have no idea how to get the end connector off...
> 
> Oh and might as well show my own progess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So OCN whad'ya think so far?


Looks awesome man! Paracord? I'm so excited, I'm getting my white & blue cord in tomorrow and can finally start on mine, I love the way it looks.


----------



## og4tcm

I haven't watched all of them yet, but does Lustro or anyone else talk about how to paracord sleeve the PCI-E 6+2 cables at the connectors?


----------



## (sic)

Small sneak peak into a new build. First time sleever.

Need to redo the black PCI-E cables. I forgot to pick up black electrical tape, thinking that I had some. I tried to skimp by without, but it will not do.









I apologize for the less than great photos. I'm still learning how to use light correctly, as well as shoot in manual.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *og4tcm*
> 
> I haven't watched all of them yet, but does Lustro or anyone else talk about how to paracord sleeve the PCI-E 6+2 cables at the connectors?


L U T R O 0 (luuuuutrohhhh) not lustro lol - haha

Heatshrinkless is almost impossible to do "double cables" without kobra hd or a small diameter sleeving, (at least in any clean way) on 8in and 6pins that split into another 8 or 6pin, however it can be used on most anything with anything else.

So if your cable is not double pinned at the front(card side) you will be fine. If it is you may want to think about splitting it somewhere in the back or making a custom cable if you have the choice.

However using heathshrink you can follow the same methods as a molex cable and get good results. However even this is a chore and take a great amount of time with varying degrees of cleanness.

So your best bet is to avoid these cables and just run another one or make some extensions so you dont have to be stuck in those situations.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> L U T R O 0 (luuuuutrohhhh) not lustro lol - haha


Isn't it "loo trow"? Listen (use Eng to Eng)


----------



## Demented

Hay Lustro, how's it going, man?


----------



## solsamurai

Lol, Lustro? Awesome typo.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> Isn't it "loo trow"? Listen (use Eng to Eng)


LOL, same thing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Hay Lustro, how's it going, man?


Shush you!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Lol, Lustro? Awesome typo.


No typo, its actually a common spelling that alot of people do for some reason lol


----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> As far as you connect 3,3 to 3,3 and +5VSB to +5VSB etc. then you'll be fine, they are all coming together in the PSU after all.


Just to be sure, the pinout has to stay the same on the motherboard, but the cables can go anywhere in the PSU?


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Heatshrinkless is almost impossible to do without kobra hd or a small diameter sleeving, (at least in any clean way)


I managed to do it without using heatrshrink and my paracord is 3,5mm which I guess is the bigger, 550 type. Do I get a cookie?








BTW "lustro" means "mirror" in Polish









The placement of the molten end is crucial. You have to put it past the bigger wings on the crimp. If you make it a tiny bit too far, the pin will not enter the connector.
So the sleeve can't reach all the way to the small tabs on either the male or female ATX pin.
My method is to first sqeeze it with my fingers on the top-bottom line so it sticks to the crimp, and then taper or smudge the sides, one at a time. In case of the paracord, the molten part cannot be any bigger that the actual sleeve, because the sleeve itself barely fits into the connector. Like Lutro0 once said, it takes some love, and sure it does!

I hope these craptastic photos will better tell what I'm trying to tell













Oh, and to achieve the above, you cut the paracord the same length as the wire (say, 30cm) and when you start to melt the end of the paracord, it will roll and retract to correct length by itself









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> As far as you connect 3,3 to 3,3 and +5VSB to +5VSB etc. then you'll be fine, they are all coming together in the PSU after all.
> 
> 
> 
> Just to be sure, the pinout has to stay the same on the motherboard, but the cables can go anywhere in the PSU?
Click to expand...

No anywhere as in _anywhere_, but if you have, say, three 3,3V cables, it doesn't matter which cable will go into which 3,3V connection on the PSU. Of course you can't connect 5V pin on the 24-pin connector to a 12V otput on the PSU etc.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *og4tcm*
> 
> I haven't watched all of them yet, but does Lustro or anyone else talk about how to paracord sleeve the PCI-E 6+2 cables at the connectors?
> 
> 
> 
> L U T R O 0 (luuuuutrohhhh) not lustro lol - haha
> .
Click to expand...

lol there they go again...


----------



## (sic)

Any advice/suggestions for improvement on the sleeving or pictures?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> I managed to do it without using heatrshrink and my paracord is 3,5mm which I guess is the bigger, 550 type. Do I get a cookie?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW "lustro" means "mirror" in Polish
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The placement of the molten end is crucial. You have to put it past the bigger wings on the crimp. If you make it a tiny bit too far, the pin will not enter the connector.
> So the sleeve can't reach all the way to the small tabs on either the male or female ATX pin.
> My method is to first sqeeze it with my fingers on the top-bottom line so it sticks to the crimp, and then taper or smudge the sides, one at a time. In case of the paracord, the molten part cannot be any bigger that the actual sleeve, because the sleeve itself barely fits into the connector. Like Lutro0 once said, it takes some love, and sure it does!
> I hope these craptastic photos will better tell what I'm trying to tell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and to achieve the above, you cut the paracord the same length as the wire (say, 30cm) and when you start to melt the end of the paracord, it will roll and retract to correct length by itself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No anywhere as in _anywhere_, but if you have, say, three 3,3V cables, it doesn't matter which cable will go into which 3,3V connection on the PSU. Of course you can't connect 5V pin on the 24-pin connector to a 12V otput on the PSU etc.


The actual method can be done with anything - the quote/person I was replying to was about a 6+2, however I totally misread the quote. I was talking about the 8 or 6pins that split into another 6 or 8pins. He was only asking about a 6+2 and in the case anything goes granted it doesnt split at the front(card) side. Dont know why I read it like that









Good catch! I revised my answer to not look dumb... haha
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> lol there they go again...


I know right lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> Any advice/suggestions for improvement on the sleeving or pictures?


Sic, I meant to say something earlier, you did a great even job on the heatshrink. But if you are asking for things to improve upon. I would say a little focus and white balance on the photos and it looks like in the first photo the heatshrink needs a little love and the sleeve stretched a bit more. BUT, like I said they look great installed bud! Be proud of your work!


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Good catch! I revised my answer to not look dumb... haha


DAMN and I thought I was so awesome I pulled it off in first try







Oh well, life goes on...


----------



## (sic)

Appreciate that Lutro0. Yeah I'm pretty much as noob as they come when it comes to shooting manual. Yes, I could just shoot in auto, but where's the fun in that?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> DAMN and I thought I was so awesome I pulled it off in first try
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well, life goes on...


Psh no way, you did a great job for your first time Dont sell yourself short.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> Appreciate that Lutro0. Yeah I'm pretty much as noob as they come when it comes to shooting manual. Yes, I could just shoot in auto, but where's the fun in that?


Oh I hear ya. I am in no way a camera master myself and I am always learning as well.


----------



## BIackout

Okay guys, I have a problem... I built my new rig last night with my custom made cables, and when I went to turn it on..... NOTHING. So.... now what?


----------



## wlw wl

You messed up the connections probably. If there's a short the PSU will not start. Same will happen if the power good signal isn't on the right pin. Possibilities are endless


----------



## BIackout

BTW here is a little preview of the goods -


----------



## BIackout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> You messed up the connections probably. If there's a short the PSU will not start. Same will happen if the power good signal isn't on the right pin. Possibilities are endless


I meticulously went through the wiring tho :/

I can think of an issue I might have though... I talked to the OCZ rep and he provided me with this diagram for the motherboard side of the 24 pin connector and I think its wrong:


Here is the one in my motherboard manual:


Any idea which is correct? My guess is that the OCZ guy is wrong... so thats why I rewired it to the bottom picture, and now there is no power! HELP!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BIackout*
> 
> Okay guys, I have a problem... I built my new rig last night with my custom made cables, and when I went to turn it on..... NOTHING. So.... now what?


As ww said, I would find the pin out from the psu maker and make sure the 24pin and the 8pin power are wired correctly. Then I would move into possibilities of if you damaged a pin. =/ Just step back and take some time to double check everything.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BIackout*
> 
> I meticulously went through the wiring tho :/
> I can think of an issue I might have though... I talked to the OCZ rep and he provided me with this diagram for the motherboard side of the 24 pin connector and I think its wrong:
> Any idea which is correct? My guess is that the OCZ guy is wrong... so thats why I rewired it to the bottom picture, and now there is no power! HELP!


http://pinouts.ru/Power/atx_v2_pinout.shtml Check that out, the first one is right buddy for the motherboard side.

If you have a fully modular psu the psu side will be different then the motherboard side. But the motherboard side will always be the same.

Ack double posting... My apologies.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BIackout*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> You messed up the connections probably. If there's a short the PSU will not start. Same will happen if the power good signal isn't on the right pin. Possibilities are endless
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I meticulously went through the wiring tho :/
> 
> I can think of an issue I might have though... I talked to the OCZ rep and he provided me with this diagram for the motherboard side of the 24 pin connector and I think its wrong:
> 
> 
> Here is the one in my motherboard manual:
> 
> 
> Any idea which is correct? My guess is that the OCZ guy is wrong... so thats why I rewired it to the bottom picture, and now there is no power! HELP!
Click to expand...

The picture from your motherboard is the connector on the motherboard itself, which should be a vertically flipped image of the top image.

The one the OCZ rep provided you with is how your PSU 24-pin cable should be.


----------



## BIackout

OMG im such a moron....

The top is the end of the cable, the bottom is the motherboard... I'm full on crazy... welp that should fix it.


----------



## BIackout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> The picture from your motherboard is the connector on the motherboard itself, which should be a vertically flipped image of the top image.
> The one the OCZ rep provided you with is how your PSU 24-pin cable should be.


yep, im totally nub right now...
sorry for wasting everyones time...









But is it looking good so far?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BIackout*
> 
> OMG im such a moron....
> 
> The top is the end of the cable, the bottom is the motherboard... I'm full on crazy... welp that should fix it.


Hopefully it works out once you get those switched around


----------



## (sic)

I'm just looking for a little clarification before I jump into my 24pin...

Here's what my PSU manual states:


I believe this pinout is for the MB side, but how do I determine the PSU side? Is it just filpped?

EDIT: Silverstone 1000-G Evolution


----------



## Furion92

Uhm... you own that psu? I'd suggest tracing the wires?








Apart from that the silverstone units should have a vertically flipped 24pin layout


----------



## og4tcm

My apologies Lutro0, I didn't have your post right there and was going off of memory that is bad enough as it is








. No offense intended, I am actually very inspired by your work, and only hope to make my paracord job look good.

So right now my 6970 requires one 8 pin and another 6 pin. Is your suggestion is to simply buy a 8 pin and 6 pin extension, and paracord those, that way I'm not messing with the +2 connections in trying to sleeve them? Any advice is greatly appreciated!


----------



## wlw wl

That would work, I make all my own cables, but you can get any extensions and sleeve those, why not!


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *og4tcm*
> 
> My apologies Lutro0, I didn't have your post right there and was going off of memory that is bad enough as it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . No offense intended, I am actually very inspired by your work, and only hope to make my paracord job look good.
> 
> So right now my 6970 requires one 8 pin and another 6 pin. Is your suggestion is to simply buy a 8 pin and 6 pin extension, and paracord those, that way I'm not messing with the +2 connections in trying to sleeve them? Any advice is greatly appreciated!


im doing my +2 on my 8 pin, its just going to be a tangle at 1 end. if you take out and sleeve your cables 1 at a time, you wont get them confused, but it might look messy.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> Uhm... you own that psu? I'd suggest tracing the wires?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apart from that the silverstone units should have a vertically flipped 24pin layout


Pretty much like furion said I no matter if I have the pin out or not make my own diagram by following each wire and drawing one out so there is no mixups.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *og4tcm*
> 
> My apologies Lutro0, I didn't have your post right there and was going off of memory that is bad enough as it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . No offense intended, I am actually very inspired by your work, and only hope to make my paracord job look good.
> So right now my 6970 requires one 8 pin and another 6 pin. Is your suggestion is to simply buy a 8 pin and 6 pin extension, and paracord those, that way I'm not messing with the +2 connections in trying to sleeve them? Any advice is greatly appreciated!


No need to apologize I was just given you and a few other people grief, I just made a rant about it on a recent live stream haha.

You would be right on with the extensions, but you should only have to do that in the case of the cables that have the double wires on the card side and then a little wire and then another connector.

Stuff like:





That last photo is my work and was only possible with kobra hd (or similar super small diameter sleeve) and custom cableing - it takes TONS of time and patience and I would never recommend anyone try it unless they have the time to do so.

So in the case of the first photo I would just sleeve an extension to make it perfect, I am not saying it cant be done, but done clean with or without heatshrink is a whole nother thing. As the double wired heatshrink would look weird and the only sleeve ive gotten it to work cleanly with heathsrinkless is Kobra HD.


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Hmm I would argue if that makes sense. The second connector is there to allow for higher current to pass to and from the card, if you're looping it into just one connector, it would have to be like AWG 16 or 14 wires from there to the PSU. Sure, you'll tell me "it works" but it defies the purpose of multiple connectors and wires.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Hmm I would argue if that makes sense. The second connector is there to allow for higher current to pass to and from the card, if you're looping it into just one connector, it would have to be like AWG 16 or 14 wires from there to the PSU. Sure, you'll tell me "it works" but it defies the purpose of multiple connectors and wires.


Well it works... -hehe- But I agree I never did like the concept for more then just the electrical standpoint..

But its the way the cables came to me (OEM) and how the customer wanted them to stay (shortened a bit on the split plug). I believe it was a Silverstone 1500w

More-so it was for an Nvidea Showcase comp I beleive - they had really specific requirements so that all cards would function right as it was for test and sample (test run) gpus as well.


----------



## wlw wl

It's just my 3 cents as usual


----------



## Jixr

Hey guys, looking for color help ( i'm no good at this )

Right now, i'm in an all black case, with a blue mobo and blue fan lights and blue anti kink coil.

I have dark blue and yellow sleeving, which would look best?

The blue goes with everything else, but does not really pop out, just blends in more or less.

the yellow is really bright, but not sure how it will look with blue and black, i feel like it would throw the scheme off a little
( light blue would be sweet, but was unavalible, I'm thinking I may can ligthen the blue by soaking it in some dilluted bleach (parachord )


----------



## wlw wl

I have somewhat similar black/blue interior, I'm going for black - dark blue - blue scheme, you can see a part of it on the previous page(s). You could go for dark blue - blue - light blue if you want it to pop out more.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> L U T R O 0 (luuuuutrohhhh) not lustro lol - haha
> Heatshrinkless is almost impossible to do "double cables" without kobra hd or a small diameter sleeving, (at least in any clean way) on 8in and 6pins that split into another 8 or 6pin, however it can be used on most anything with anything else.
> So if your cable is not double pinned at the front(card side) you will be fine. If it is you may want to think about splitting it somewhere in the back or making a custom cable if you have the choice.
> However using heathshrink you can follow the same methods as a molex cable and get good results. However even this is a chore and take a great amount of time with varying degrees of cleanness.
> So your best bet is to avoid these cables and just run another one or make some extensions so you dont have to be stuck in those situations.


oh my god im dying of laughter.


----------



## Jixr

yeah, i can get 100' of parachord for $3 locally,( limited colors though ) but i'm not going to pay $10 plus shipping for a light blue, and I would probably need at least 200-300' to fully sleeve my PSU.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jixr*
> 
> yeah, i can get 100' of parachord for $3 locally,( limited colors though ) but i'm not going to pay $10 plus shipping for a light blue, and I would probably need at least 200-300' to fully sleeve my PSU.


usually 60-70 meters = ~ 180ft - 210 feet.


----------



## Jixr

although I did pick up some light blue heatshrink, i think using that instead of black will help brighten up the case a little bit. just the dark blue and black seem very very dull to me.


----------



## wlw wl

Whatever floats your boat, that was just a suggestion


----------



## Jixr

yeah yours looks nice, I just don't want to have to order anything online, i'll use clear tubing on my water loop, and add a few drops of blue anti-freeze until i get a light blue, and I suppose I can pick up a white CC light, and my PSU has a metal cover that I could paint a light blue, might look nice.


----------



## Artist_

@BIackout check my fotos from ocz 850. i have the same problem when sleeved. I had jumbled cables.

they are from psu connections, not from atx. they are different


----------



## BlazinJoker

Just finished my 24 pin









Come check out my build log in my signature to see what those colors are going with


----------



## forever109

looks like my FTW V2's r much bigger than MDPC-X sleeves..
god damn i hate it now.







.
at first i look around ,MDPC-X was closed, than i went with FTW, n saw those V2, which FTW's web named as Smaller. but damn it's still big.
i tryed to do shrink less. but too big, so won't work.


----------



## Furion92

I've still got an excel sheet with the pinout of my wrecked OCZ ZX850W.
I hope you can get the information you need out of it. The colour names are german, but the cells are coloured too, so that shouldn't be the biggest problem.

The layout is as if you'd look at the end of the cables (into the openings of the female pins) with the clip on the right.

//edit: I changed the file. Now it shouldn't need any further explanation.

Hope it helps









OCZ ZX 850W pinout.xlsx 14k .xlsx file


----------



## BIackout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artist_*
> 
> @BIackout check my fotos from ocz 850. i have the same problem when sleeved. I had jumbled cables.
> they are from psu connections, not from atx. they are different


thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> I've still got an excel sheet with the pinout of my wrecked OCZ ZX850W.
> I hope you can get the information you need out of it. The colour names are german, but the cells are coloured too, so that shouldn't be the biggest problem.
> The layout is as if you'd look at the end of the cables (into the openings of the female pins) with the clip on the right.
> Hope it helps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kabel.xlsx 12k .xlsx file


This could very well help me, I swapped around the cables last night only for my psu to still not turn on... I'm thinking DOA? Too bad I destroyed the original cables for some reason...
Just have to wait for my PSU tester to arrive today..


----------



## Furion92

Oh bummer. I noticed that I've used a strange way to write that pinout down









Let me get this straight, then I'll update my original post.

//edit: Alright, I changed my original post. Please don't use the old sheet.


----------



## BIackout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> Oh bummer. I noticed that I've used a strange way to write that pinout down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me get this straight, then I'll update my original post.
> //edit: Alright, I changed my original post. Please don't use the old sheet.


Thanks bud, much better! +rep


----------



## mordocai rp

MISSED MY MAIL MAN







now i have to wait 4hrs to go pick it, this is a bummer. On the bright side, im hoping its my mdpc-x order


----------



## wlw wl

Hmm I can't come up with a good way of cutting the wires with a millimeter precision. I've just been to a big hardware store and I had different ideas and I took different tools trying to come up with a rig that would do just that but I ended up with nothing.

Any ideas how to cut 50 pieces of 18 AWG to the same exact length in less than a month?

I tried just by hand and I could swear I had 6 perfectly cut pieces of wire, but when I did that 6-pin extensions, each wire turned out with a different length somehow...


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Hmm I can't come up with a good way of cutting the wires with a millimeter precision. I've just been to a big hardware store and I had different ideas and I took different tools trying to come up with a rig that would do just that but I ended up with nothing.
> 
> Any ideas how to cut 50 pieces of 18 AWG to the same exact length in less than a month?
> 
> I tried just by hand and I could swear I had 6 perfectly cut pieces of wire, but when I did that 6-pin extensions, each wire turned out with a different length somehow...


go buy some extensions, non sleeved, and sleeve em


----------



## wlw wl

That's one way, not that bad actually.

But I just bought 100m (330ft) of black 18 AWG wire, connectors and pins, so...









ED: Nvmd I jury-rigged a device that surprisingly gives me consistent length all the time, both for wires and for sleeves, and I made 50 cables in like 2 minutes


----------



## Arrant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> ED: Nvmd I jury-rigged a device that surprisingly gives me consistent length all the time, both for wires and for sleeves, and I made 50 cables in like 2 minutes


Do share







I was going to suggest crimping the pin on one end before cutting it off the roll. I'm thinking that might cut the inconsistency by half.


----------



## Furion92

Oh that's a well known problem, at least for me.

I ended up putting an empty atx housing into a vise.

I figured out the perfect length for the first cable, cut it, crimped it on one side and plugged it into the housing.
Then I crimped the end of my cable roll, plugged in the pin next to my reference cable and stretched both of them at the same time with some rubberized gloves. It's very easy to get the right length for the new cable with a side cutter or similar. Unplug the wire you just cut to length and repeat the process until you've got enough cables.

Now you're halfway there.

You've got to make sure, that you don't strip the wire too far before crimping it, because otherwise the insulation won't stop the cable to slip too far into your crimp -> different positions of the crimp -> different total cable lengths...
It doesn't matter how perfectly you measured and cut your wires if you don't position your crimps equally all the time. This would end up in ever so slightly different lengths and would drive you crazy.

Because of that I don't recommend this wire stripper from Knipex click me!
Its minimal stripping length is already too long for proper crimping.
If you really want a tool that you can enjoy working with I seriously recommend this one: click me!
I've worked with it and it's amazing.

I'd love to see your technique, sounds like it could be a lot easier and faster than mine.


----------



## wlw wl

Well, completed my 24-pin









The rig is super simple. I screwed a crocodile clip to a wooden kitchen breadboard and secured it so i doesn't move or rotate.
Then I put a limiter behind it, so the wire/sleeve goes into the clip equally deep every time. It's a... I don't know the proper word, an electrical cube that you use to connect wires together.
Then, with double sided tape, I taped a metal ruler to that board, 30cm from the crocodile clip, so it sticks out in the air.
I use one metal 5,25" to 3,5" converter so the whole rig doesn't slide off the desk. I put the wire cutters or scissors against the ruler when cutting. I put the converter piece between the desk top and the desk "legs" and the board locks against it when I pull on the cable/sleeve.
This gave me, believe it or not, a true millimeter precision on the wires and the sleeve.
I also put a piece of wire inside the crocodile clip so it doesn't bite into the cable that's being cut too much.
It was really made from what I found in the drawer and around me but it works better than I could have thought.

As for the stripper, I already have a cheap but fantastic tool on which I can set the length and it can strip really short pieces of the insulation so it works great. Again, it gives me a millimeter-perfect stripping and crimping. And I paid like $4 for it long time ago and have since stripped thousands of wires with it, including 10-wire ribbons similar to old PATA signal cables - it gets all 10 in one move to the exact same length.

If only my crimping tool would crimp those pins properly... but it doesn't and it's the worst part of the whole process and 1/4 of the pins break during crimping









Excuse the craptastic cellphone photos...

The rig and the tool:










And this is what I came up with, my superb camera doesn't know what colors are, so these in reality are, in order: black, navy blue, dark blue.


Spoiler: Picture















Together with the 6-pin I did about two days ago:


Spoiler: Picture















And after doing those millimeter-perfect extensions, I realized that in order for them to make nice rainbows, you can't make them millimeter-perfect... One row must be shorter than the other, how obvious it is now... They look great stretched, but not great at all when bent


----------



## mordocai rp

hey guys, how can i make my housing accept double wired pins? I already had them in but after sleeving i can't seem to be able to fit them back in. Can i just warm it a bit(via lighter) and maybe thatd work?
e: also looking at my mdpc-x order. He charged me level 3 shipping but sent it using level1.. ***?


----------



## BlazinJoker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> hey guys, how can i make my housing accept double wired pins? I already had them in but after sleeving i can't seem to be able to fit them back in. Can i just warm it a bit(via lighter) and maybe thatd work?
> e: also looking at my mdpc-x order. He charged me level 3 shipping but sent it using level1.. ***?


Three steps, 1. Work at making it fit with the lighter for 30 min 2. Start swearing in frustration 3. Work a little more
Magically after these steps it goes in


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlazinJoker*
> 
> Three steps, 1. Work at making it fit with the lighter for 30 min 2. Start swearing in frustration 3. Work a little more
> Magically after these steps it goes in


ive already done step 2 for multiple days. I fantasize about taking that psu and smashing it with a sledgehammer followed by unload a clip from my 9mm... a man can dream


----------



## Demented

I'm having a little bit of an issue with sleeving some round SATA cables. It doesn't seem to grip well, and I'm assuming it is because the cable it is sleeving is rounded, while the sleeve and shrink is flat. It grips fine on the connector, and seems to hold at the base for a bit, but then with some minor twisting and turning of the cable, you can see it start to slip, and will eventually be pulled out.

I tried cutting a smaller piece of shrink, to shrink around the base, to make it thicker, and then a normal piece over all of that. It just blew out. At which point I decided to stop as I don't have much SATA sleeve or shrink, and already might have damaged my SATA cable with the heat gun.


These are the cables I want to sleeve:


So can this be worked out? Should I try longer pieces of shrink overall, or am I onto something with using a small piece to thicken it up some?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I'm having a little bit of an issue with sleeving some round SATA cables. It doesn't seem to grip well, and I'm assuming it is because the cable it is sleeving is rounded, while the sleeve and shrink is flat. It grips fine on the connector, and seems to hold at the base for a bit, but then with some minor twisting and turning of the cable, you can see it start to slip, and will eventually be pulled out.
> I tried cutting a smaller piece of shrink, to shrink around the base, to make it thicker, and then a normal piece over all of that. It just blew out. At which point I decided to stop as I don't have much SATA sleeve or shrink, and already might have damaged my SATA cable with the heat gun.
> These are the cables I want to sleeve:
> So can this be worked out? Should I try longer pieces of shrink overall, or am I onto something with using a small piece to thicken it up some?


Brush on super glue. I made a video for case fan sleeving and the same concept can apply here. Shoot me a pm if you need more info.


----------



## mordocai rp

So after i sleeving my psu, recrimped all of the ends with mdpc-x crimper/crimps my psu no longer works. Bummer and a waste of a 750w seasonic. Time to just make sleeved extenions instead


----------



## Furion92

What do you mean by "no longer works"? Is it starting?


----------



## BlazinJoker

I would say check for cables that are touching, it may be shorting out somewhere...


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> What do you mean by "no longer works"? Is it starting?


no. It wont even turn on, the psu that is. I hooked up my new psu i got today and it works without a hitch


----------



## Furion92

@mordocai rp: You probably just messed up the pinout. Did you sleeve your cables one by one or did you pull out the whole bunch?


----------



## dan123123

the individual cabling looks so sick, wish i had the patience to do it


----------



## undertehbed

Hey everyone,

I am new to OCN but I wanted to share my first complete sleeve build. Let me know what you think, if you have any advice or questions.



































Let me know what ya think!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *undertehbed*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> I am new to OCN but I wanted to share my first complete sleeve build. Let me know what you think, if you have any advice or questions.
> 
> Let me know what ya think!


I think you need to keep it to 3-4 pics max lol

However the end result looks awesome, keep up the work and you will hone your heatshrinking with time.


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> @mordocai rp: You probably just messed up the pinout. Did you sleeve your cables one by one or did you pull out the whole bunch?


i pulled all out and labeled individually. I have an xfx 750w xxx edition psu. I couldn't find the pin layout thuogh. Also the 24pin is non modular so idk where each wire comes from w/o fully openeing it up again


----------



## Furion92

You don't have to open it up if the cables are colour coded. And from the pics I just saw in google it looks like they were.
Can you still make out the colour of the cables through your sleeve? Try to find a black and a green one, then short them and find out whether your psu starts or not.
Make sure you have anything connected to your power supply, for example a fan. Otherwise it shouldn't start.

-> If it starts, you've got to redo your pinout, because it's wrong

-> If it doesn't, well, then it's dead







(.. and your pinout might be fine)


----------



## rgrwng

has anyone tried painting the individual wires, so they match the sleeving? i am doing okay (i think) in the sleeving part, but i want the colors to "pop" more, because of possible color bleeding.

the colors i am going to use are white and aquamarine (MDPC), and so i want to know if i can paint the wires those colors. other suggestions welcome. flexibility i guess should be allowed, as well, which is why i am looking into painting, not covering them with tape.

i thought about recrimping new wires (custom work with actual colors), but for my next build i do not want to break a PSU testing recrimping.


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> You don't have to open it up if the cables are colour coded. And from the pics I just saw in google it looks like they were.
> Can you still make out the colour of the cables through your sleeve? Try to find a black and a green one, then short them and find out whether your psu starts or not.
> Make sure you have anything connected to your power supply, for example a fan. Otherwise it shouldn't start.
> -> If it starts, you've got to redo your pinout, because it's wrong
> -> If it doesn't, well, then it's dead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (.. and your pinout might be fine)


it is color coded but there are multiple wires of same color, do i have to recrimp a black and green one then? or how do i jump them? Also will the 120mm fan on the psu be good for it to start, or should i just hook it up to something else?
edit:\
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> has anyone tried painting the individual wires, so they match the sleeving? i am doing okay (i think) in the sleeving part, but i want the colors to "pop" more, because of possible color bleeding.
> the colors i am going to use are white and aquamarine (MDPC), and so i want to know if i can paint the wires those colors. other suggestions welcome. flexibility i guess should be allowed, as well, which is why i am looking into painting, not covering them with tape.
> i thought about recrimping new wires (custom work with actual colors), but for my next build i do not want to break a PSU testing recrimping.


i have aquamarine blue sleeving from mdpc-x as well as white, I could either make you extensions or something(this isn't advertisement







). I can tell you if you put white electrical tape on the wire the blue will be brighter


----------



## Furion92

What do you mean by recrimp? There should be several black but only one green cable. It doesn't matter which black you take, they are physically all connected to ground.
Shorting is really easy: Trace said 2 cables and find out where they go into your connector. Then plug a staple from the other side that shorts those cables.

The PSU fan itself is not enough to make it start (it has a no-load protection, the psu fan itself is no load). Connect at least one fan to it.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> has anyone tried painting the individual wires, so they match the sleeving? i am doing okay (i think) in the sleeving part, but i want the colors to "pop" more, because of possible color bleeding.
> the colors i am going to use are white and aquamarine (MDPC), and so i want to know if i can paint the wires those colors. other suggestions welcome. flexibility i guess should be allowed, as well, which is why i am looking into painting, not covering them with tape.
> i thought about recrimping new wires (custom work with actual colors), but for my next build i do not want to break a PSU testing recrimping.


I bought colored 18AWG cables for my PSU and I cut them to desired lengths.

Well worth it since a spool of 50'-100' is really cheap.


----------



## Furion92

@rgrwng: I also bought coloured 18AWG wires, but they weren't the cheapest. If you want to use your original cables, I'd suggest covering them with electrical tape, because paint wouldn't hold to it. If you cover them with only one layer, the flexibility of the cables shouldn't be affected that much.
I've never done this for longer cables, so I'm not 100% sure though.


----------



## (sic)

I've decided that creating an extension for my 24pin is my best option, but while planning this out I noticed that my +12V (yellow) wire is a 16AWG wire, while the rest of the wires are 18AWG.

When making the extension is it best to use 16AWG wire for these specific pins or would I run into any issues using 18AWG throughout?

I have already purchased plenty of 18AWG wire and would prefer not to have to order more.


----------



## Furion92

I'm assuming that your extensions won't be very long? ~30cm?
In that case it doesn't really matter whether you take 18AWG or 16AWG wire.
If you want to extend your original wires by let's say 80cm, then you'd have a noticeable voltage drop over your cables and 16AWG would be the better choice.

However, you'd run into thickness problems if you buy 16AWG, because the manufacturers of PSUs use cables with very thin insulation. The only place where I've found these was Asia. There are other types of electrical wire (or their insulation to be specific) that's got the right thickness but also less flexibility, worse crimping characteristics and worst of all: a very high price.

Long story short: you're better off using 18AWG wire.


----------



## carmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> I've decided that creating an extension for my 24pin is my best option, but while planning this out I noticed that my +12V (yellow) wire is a 16AWG wire, while the rest of the wires are 18AWG.
> When making the extension is it best to use 16AWG wire for these specific pins or would I run into any issues using 18AWG throughout?
> I have already purchased plenty of 18AWG wire and would prefer not to have to order more.


I see that AWG 18 is the standard wire when it comes to doing your own PSU cables, so you shouldn't have any problems.

I have read several times that AWG 16 is more capable of handling currents but it makes crimping and fitting it into the connectors a pain due to the larger diameter. Now, for my own sleeving job I am wondering whether giving AWG 16 a try or go directly for AWG 18...


----------



## wlw wl

I could understand 16 AWG for GPU or EPS cables, but for the 24-pin 18 AWG is more than enough


----------



## (sic)

18AWG it is.

Thanks fellas.


----------



## Lutro0

From what I have experienced, is that there is arguably no need for 16awg unless you are using the *full* potential of a 1500 psu or higher. But even then 18awg should be able to handle the psu fine if its within safe use of the power supply.

Thus I will also say I am not an electrician just that experience has led to see no need for thicker gauge unless you are benching hard. And I have worked on allot of workhorse computers as well as my own folding machines.

Also like others have said 16awg causes tons of issues when sleeving and crimping.

And am I the only one a little uncomfortable with carmas avatar lol


----------



## carmas

Thank you guys for the tips, I will go with AWG 18. +REP
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> And am I the only one a little uncomfortable with carmas avatar lol


lol Anyway I have already gotten tired of this avatar, so I guess I will change it soon


----------



## nawon72

Anyone know what crimp size the MDPC-X crimper is rated for? E.g 18-24AWG, or 18-30AWG, or 16-24AWG

And does anyone have the Molex Hand Crimp Tool (non Ratcheting)? Link. I'm unsure if I should go with it, or the MDPC crimper. It's about $42 vs $60. OR I could get a high quality crimper (PA1645) for $90 (old stock, but new). It's just like this, and here is a link to the new one.


----------



## wlw wl

I've bought a "generic" crimping tool and it's useless... especially on the ATX pins. So if I were you, I would make sure that the tool is 100% right for the job.


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> Anyone know what crimp size the MDPC-X crimper is rated for? E.g 18-24AWG, or 18-30AWG, or 16-24AWG
> 
> And does anyone have the Molex Hand Crimp Tool (non Ratcheting)? Link. I'm unsure if I should go with it, or the MDPC crimper. It's about $42 vs $60. OR I could get a high quality crimper (PA1645) for $90 (old stock, but new). It's just like this, and here is a link to the new one.


I've just had a look on mine and it looks like it will go up to 30AWG. It has two crimp slots, one for fan types, and the other for atx, written on the fan type is 22-30AWG and the atx type 18-22AWG.

I would recommend the MDPC crimper, it is awesome! Saved me loads of time.

Hope this helps.


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> Anyone know what crimp size the MDPC-X crimper is rated for? E.g 18-24AWG, or 18-30AWG, or 16-24AWG
> 
> And does anyone have the Molex Hand Crimp Tool (non Ratcheting)? Link. I'm unsure if I should go with it, or the MDPC crimper. It's about $42 vs $60. OR I could get a high quality crimper (PA1645) for $90 (old stock, but new). It's just like this, and here is a link to the new one.


i have an mdpc-x in my hand, it can do 18-22 and 24-30awg. Don't forget the mdpc-x crimper also comes with 50male+female atx crimps and 20fan crimps. That in itself is worth it as mdpc-x crimps are top of the notch, and have bigger "wings"
also just so you know, if you buy the crimper you have to pay level3 shipping from nils


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> I've just had a look on mine and it looks like it will go up to 30AWG. It has two crimp slots, one for fan types, and the other for atx, written on the fan type is 2*4*-30AWG and the atx type 18-22AWG.
> I would recommend the MDPC crimper, it is awesome! Saved me loads of time.


Thanks +rep (i'm assuming the you meant 24-30AWG).

I think It will crimp about 1.5x faster than the Molex tool, so it may be worth it in time saved. But I pretty sure the Molex tool will crimp better since it has a slot for each gauge. See this for a picture guide of it in action. The insulation crimp may look funny, but it is considered acceptable(pg. 20 fig 9-20). The MDPC insulation crimp seems to be marginal, however Lutro0 said its between fig. 9-17 and 9-23, which is probably be acceptable as well. Molex also mentions that piercing the insulation may be considered acceptable for hand tools.

Also, I think the Molex tool is actually 14-24AWG, but I can't confirm. And I'm not entirely sure how the tool's measurements work







.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> i have an mdpc-x in my hand, it can do 18-22 and 24-30awg. Don't forget the mdpc-x crimper also comes with 50male+female atx crimps and 20fan crimps. That in itself is worth it as mdpc-x crimps are top of the notch, and have bigger "wings"
> also just so you know, if you buy the crimper you have to pay level3 shipping from nils


The pins are only worth about $6-$8. And now that I know about the shipping, the crimper will cost ~$64 after removing the cost of pins.

Both the MDPC and Molex tool are completely die cast (from what I can tell, but im no expert), whereas the $90 PA1645 has a die cast frame, a 4 piece milled crimp die, and is made in W.-Germany. The final prices for the crimpers are approximately: $45 Molex, $65 MDPC, $90 PA1645, and possibly $35 Molex (used, like new). The price of the Paladin tool isn't looking so bad when compared to the MDPC tool. But It's double the Molex tool...


----------



## wlw wl

So my tool has 3 slots (it's double-action) as follows:

0,5mm2 - 1mm2
that's AWG 16/17 to AWG 20

1,1mm2 - 2,5mm2
that's AWG 13 to AWG 16

4mm2 - 6mm2
that's AWG 9 to AWG 11

and it's useless!

Tab Connector Crimper YYT11 - avoid it.


----------



## undertehbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> has anyone tried painting the individual wires, so they match the sleeving? i am doing okay (i think) in the sleeving part, but i want the colors to "pop" more, because of possible color bleeding.
> the colors i am going to use are white and aquamarine (MDPC), and so i want to know if i can paint the wires those colors. other suggestions welcome. flexibility i guess should be allowed, as well, which is why i am looking into painting, not covering them with tape.
> i thought about recrimping new wires (custom work with actual colors), but for my next build i do not want to break a PSU testing recrimping.


I recommend purchasing some ultra thin 3:1 1/8" heatshrink to cover each wire prior to sleeving. Did this on my first sleeve job, because the sleeve was cheap/poor quality. Takes double the time (big pain on the 24-Pin), but its nice to not see the red/yellow/black


----------



## carterboy

while yall are on the subject of tools, can yall fill me in on the tools i need/wanna have to make sleeving easy? im about to order paracord, and i know i need heatstrink, what other tools/ items will i want to have before starting sleeving? with paracord will the colored wires show thru? or will they be alright? ima sleeve about 6 fans, id like to sleeve sata cables but if not thats fine, my psu and just a few other wires running thru my case, about how much is good for that? i had 200ft of green and 100ft of black but i feel that is wayyyy too much.

ill most likely do most green on the psu besides like 1-2 wires and all fans will be green


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carterboy*
> 
> while yall are on the subject of tools, can yall fill me in on the tools i need/wanna have to make sleeving easy? im about to order paracord, and i know i need heatstrink, what other tools/ items will i want to have before starting sleeving? with paracord will the colored wires show thru? or will they be alright? ima sleeve about 6 fans, id like to sleeve sata cables but if not thats fine, my psu and just a few other wires running thru my case, about how much is good for that? i had 200ft of green and 100ft of black but i feel that is wayyyy too much.
> ill most likely do most green on the psu besides like 1-2 wires and all fans will be green


you cant use 550paracord on sata cables. No colors will bleed through. All you need for a ghetto sleeving session is staples, and a ligher. Lighter to heatshrink and melt the frays off of paracord and staples to remove atxpins. I used ~150ft to sleeve my psu 24pin+8pin+6pin


----------



## carterboy

yea i know you cant do the sata cables with that type, i found that out, ill leave them black, so i dont have to buy these crimping tools or whatever people are talking about? so yea ill prolly just buy 200ft then so i have more than enough.


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carterboy*
> 
> yea i know you cant do the sata cables with that type, i found that out, ill leave them black, so i dont have to buy these crimping tools or whatever people are talking about? so yea ill prolly just buy 200ft then so i have more than enough.


not unless you cut your psu cables


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carterboy*
> 
> while yall are on the subject of tools, can yall fill me in on the tools i need/wanna have to make sleeving easy? im about to order paracord, and i know i need heatstrink, what other tools/ items will i want to have before starting sleeving? with paracord will the colored wires show thru? or will they be alright? ima sleeve about 6 fans, id like to sleeve sata cables but if not thats fine, my psu and just a few other wires running thru my case, about how much is good for that? i had 200ft of green and 100ft of black but i feel that is wayyyy too much.
> ill most likely do most green on the psu besides like 1-2 wires and all fans will be green


If you give the tutorial link in my sig a look it has video guides and a FAQ on the third post.







If you have any more questions please feel free to contact me.


----------



## Sevada88

My SATA power cable so far...boy this one is hard! I'll probably finish the top part now and leave the rest for later.


----------



## GunSkillet

Why dont people just take out and sleeve one wire at a time instead of writing down where each one goes? I think that's what Im gonna do.


----------



## mav2000

this is what I did for the sata power cables...I found sleeving way too difficult and didnt come out clean for me:


----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunSkillet*
> 
> Why dont people just take out and sleeve one wire at a time instead of writing down where each one goes? I think that's what Im gonna do.


I tried that, but then it went horribly wrong.


----------



## Furion92

@mav2000: wow, that looks surprisingly good without the sleeve, well done







The wire looks very big though, what size is it? Didn't you have any problems to push it in?


----------



## BlazinJoker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunSkillet*
> 
> Why dont people just take out and sleeve one wire at a time instead of writing down where each one goes? I think that's what Im gonna do.


Thats what I did. I don't know how it went horribly wrong for Sevada88.
Finally got my PSU cover back on and the sleeve inside!


----------



## wlw wl

Judging from those little crimps (?) on the wires just next to the connectors, you have to push hard on the wire to insert the pin, because your molten paracord is too thick. Give it some more love and it will slide right in, without making those nasty curls/crimps - I don't know the proper word









ED: it's either too thick or too far towards the front of the pin


----------



## GunSkillet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> I tried that, but then it went horribly wrong.


How so?


----------



## audioholic

Got some FTW V2 sleeving in the mail to try out. So far I am liking it. I do have a question though, I bought an OCZ 850W fully modular PSU. And all these capacitors are on the 24 pin and 8 pin and probably other pins as well. What on earth do I do with these?
Here is a cell phone picture I took of my recent work. Really wish I would have LutrOOs tool right about now


----------



## audioholic

If I need to I can just put heatshrink on them. I dont think that would look to horrible.
Thanks again


----------



## wlw wl

This has already been discussed, if not here, then in one of Lutro0's threads I believe, check that out


----------



## audioholic

I actually found the thread right after I posted. I kept searching resistors...not capacitors...oops.
Thanks


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Got some FTW V2 sleeving in the mail to try out. So far I am liking it. I do have a question though, I bought an OCZ 850W fully modular PSU. And all these capacitors are on the 24 pin and 8 pin and probably other pins as well. What on earth do I do with these?
> Here is a cell phone picture I took of my recent work. Really wish I would have LutrOOs tool right about now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -snip-


Yea, quick recap (get it >.<)

You can remove them and many have already just be mindful that they are there for a reason and that it may void your warranty and give you some more ripple and noise. Which may or may not effect you at all on high overclocks.


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> I actually found the thread right after I posted. I kept searching resistors...not capacitors...oops.
> Thanks


i posted a pic of what it'd look like heatshrinked, it looks very good imo. Ill try to find it again, it was earlier in the thread


----------



## carterboy

what kinda sleeving will i need to sleeve sata cables? and also my case has a couple cables for usb and LED lights and stuff, would i just use a paracord like i use for my psu?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carterboy*
> 
> what kinda sleeving will i need to sleeve sata cables? and also my case has a couple cables for usb and LED lights and stuff, would i just use a paracord like i use for my psu?


For SATA data cables, you'll want some SATA sized sleeve. MDPC has it, and I'm sure some others.

As for the USB inner cables, and front panel connectors, you can use para cord if that is what you are using, but I'm not sure how well it's going to widen to be able to get it over the cables correctly.


----------



## (sic)

First fan finished.

Sorry for crappy cell phone pics...


----------



## carterboy

Those fans look good man, im about to invest in about 5-62 and was thinking about painting them but didnt know if i wanted to go black or green, but those look good. my sleeving will be green.


----------



## skitzab1

hi troops been bizzy what do u think ??

its now a true 24 pin not a 23 to 24







ditched the splice wire chucked them on my bench rig voltage is a bit more consistent







surprised me


----------



## mordocai rp

Hey guys, what size sleeving do people use to sleeve their tubes? I saw a couple builds with em and i loved the look


----------



## (sic)

Spoiler: @ skitzab1!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*






Looking great man!

What did ya end up doing with the caps on the PCI-E cables? I shortened my PCI-E cable to almost half their original length, so I just removed them completely.


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> Looking great man!
> What did ya end up doing with the caps on the PCI-E cables? I shortened my PCI-E cable to almost half their original length, so I just removed them completely.


just ditched them







and ran a full 24 pin not 23 splice to 24 pin







i think silverstone do the 23 to 24 to get the 80 plus gold or something.

as i don't get why they power the pin and not use it ?????

thanks by the way (sic)


----------



## (sic)

Not sure either. That's why I decided to not even attempt to sleeve of the 24pin... Instead I threw together an extension. I'll try and get a pic up when I get home from work.


----------



## duhasttas

Looking through so many amazing color combos and setups I was tempted...

Product = Sleeve SMALL - ORANGE
Quantity = 3
SKU = SL-S-OR
Price = 8,78 €

Product = Sleeve SMALL - AQUAMARINE-BLUE
Quantity = 3
SKU = SL-S-AQ
Price = 8,00 €

Product = Pre-Cut Heatshrink SMALL - BLACK
Quantity = 10
SKU = HSC-S-BK
Price = 3,35 €

Product = Pin-Remover by MOLEX - The Original
Quantity = 1
SKU = PR-MOLEX
Price = 19,00 €

Really was hesitant about voiding the PSU warranty, but with so many other components already voided, why not add to the list


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duhasttas*
> 
> Looking through so many amazing color combos and setups I was tempted...
> Product = Sleeve SMALL - ORANGE
> Quantity = 3
> SKU = SL-S-OR
> Price = 8,78 €
> Product = Sleeve SMALL - AQUAMARINE-BLUE
> Quantity = 3
> SKU = SL-S-AQ
> Price = 8,00 €
> Product = Pre-Cut Heatshrink SMALL - BLACK
> Quantity = 10
> SKU = HSC-S-BK
> Price = 3,35 €
> Product = Pin-Remover by MOLEX - The Original
> Quantity = 1
> SKU = PR-MOLEX
> Price = 19,00 €
> Really was hesitant about voiding the PSU warranty, but with so many other components already voided, why not add to the list


If you take your time and read up first it will work out fine!


----------



## mordocai rp

whats the best 1/2" or 5/8" sleeve?


----------



## GunSkillet

Hey guys is this safe to do?





The video had a link to a thread about it on this site but it doesn't work. I'm just checking in here to make sure it wasn't removed for having adverse effects.


----------



## BlazinJoker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunSkillet*
> 
> Hey guys is this safe to do?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video had a link to a thread about it on this site but it doesn't work. I'm just checking in here to make sure it wasn't removed for having adverse effects.


I forget why his thread was removed/isn't working, but I can say that roberts25's methods work well, because I've used them to sleeve with paracord. Lutro0 will be making a video soon about sleeving heatshrinkless with paracord. Just as soon as he gets settled into his new house


----------



## wlw wl

What do you mean by "this"? I do heatshrinkless paracord all the time in a way similar to that presented in the video and it does indeed work.


----------



## GunSkillet

By 'this' I meant that procedure. Good to know, thanks for your input.


----------



## strych9

I have a question. Is there any precaution I should take before opening the PSU for sleeving? I pressed the power button on the case (not on the PSU) multiple times, is that enough to discharge the PSU?


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strych9*
> 
> I have a question. Is there any precaution I should take before opening the PSU for sleeving? I pressed the power button on the case (not on the PSU) multiple times, is that enough to discharge the PSU?


you should be fine put an led on the 12+ and a _ wire if it pops theirs still power inside







or just leave it over night


----------



## strych9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> you should be fine put an led on the 12+ and a _ wire if it pops theirs still power inside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or just leave it over night


Thanks







+REP


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strych9*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +REP


chears glad to help







need any other advise p.m me or skype me at skitzab1

i one on one mod tutor.go have a look at phillyd phantom 410 and thats what some (one on one) can resolt in









and yes its free
















and live stream but live stream wont be back up till i move in 2 weeks


----------



## strych9

The white paracord got a bit dirty, how do I clean it?


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strych9*
> 
> The white paracord got a bit dirty, how do I clean it?


bit of Windex and a cloth maybe .

never looked at cleaning i just replace


----------



## strych9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> bit of Windex and a cloth maybe .
> never looked at cleaning i just replace


Thanks, well actually it took about 2 hours to sleeve 6-pins, replacing will be a pita


----------



## GunSkillet

Does it matter if two cables get mixed up if they're the same color?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunSkillet*
> 
> Does it matter if two cables get mixed up if they're the same color?


As long as it goes to the proper slot in the connector on both ends, it shouldn't matter. Like I had multiple black wires in my 24pin extension, and as I sleeved them, I just made sure that they were in the proper slots.


----------



## RJacobs28

Hi all, Just ordered 30m of MDPC and some shrink from Nils. 10m each of Black, Combat Green and that rusty brown, any suggestion on an order/pattern for a 24 Pin Setup? think Camo...


----------



## skitzab1

10 black 2 combat green on top row
2 rust brown and 10 black on bottom row

id use black as ur base color


----------



## bono2099




----------



## (sic)

Nice and clean Bono. Can we get a close up shot of the Sata power cable sleeving job? They look really nice.


----------



## bono2099

Thank you







Hope these extra shots are close enough.


----------



## (sic)

NIce job on that dude. I struggled to get my Sata cable to where I was content with them, but they didn't end up as nice as yours.

+rep


----------



## Lutro0

Working on some sleeving for PhillyD, if you have any sleeving questons please feel free to join!

Join @ http://www.livestream.com/lutro0


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bono2099*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope these extra shots are close enough.


nice work







10/10


----------



## Christ

I have seen the video for the Molex cable sleeve guide, if im going to sleeve it, do i have to cut off the part where two wires which lead towards the single pin connector? this is my first time to do the cable sleeving job.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Christ*
> 
> I have seen the video for the Molex cable sleeve guide, if im going to sleeve it, do i have to cut off the part where two wires which lead towards the single pin connector? this is my first time to do the cable sleeving job.


You might need to post a pic, highlighting what you are talking about 'cutting off'.


----------



## Christ

Im now not at home, maybe later i will post the pic, because now i really have no idea how am i going to sleeve the PSU Molex cable, it just seems so confusing to me.


----------



## pbaines




----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Christ*
> 
> I have seen the video for the Molex cable sleeve guide, if im going to sleeve it, do i have to cut off the part where two wires which lead towards the single pin connector? this is my first time to do the cable sleeving job.


Only if you are going to get rid of the extra one, But if you need both leave it as it is bud.


----------



## Lutro0

Also Working on some sleeving as usual, if you have any sleeving questons please feel free to join!

Join @ http://www.livestream.com/lutro0


----------



## wlw wl

When you join a live session by Lutro0, featuring Dwood, skitzab1, Sniper and phillyd among others, you get motivated to work!

A little product (actually two of them) of mine done during yesterday's "gathering"










Spoiler: Pic


----------



## carterboy

that looks good bono, sleeving looks very clean, and i know this is off topic, are those double doors on your case? looks cool..


----------



## GunSkillet

What do you guys think of the sunbeamtech tool? I've been seeing a lot of people say negative things about it.

Also, was wondering if I can safely use the modular cables on my current power supply, in a new one. I just sleeved my two PCIe connectors and my SATA power connector, and I really dont want to do it again. My PCIe connector has two cables going into one slot so I'm not sure if other PSUs support that.


----------



## longroadtrip

Bent mine on the first pin...bought the molex tool from MDPC after that...have sleeved close to 20 PSUs with it and no problems whatsoever.









As far as your PSU modular cables, they are not interchangeable unless they are the same model.


----------



## bono2099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carterboy*
> 
> that looks good bono, sleeving looks very clean, and i know this is off topic, are those double doors on your case? looks cool..


Thanks







Yes those are double doors. They come in handy if you want quick access (IE: HDD cage, dusting off, etc...). Though they do get in the way a little if you are changing components and such.


----------



## pbaines




----------



## Demented

Still learning, but not too bad considering it's molex and a triple headed one!


----------



## GunSkillet

I went to my local microcenter to get 24-pin and 8-pin extensions. They had these "ModRight" brand individually sleeved cables at the same price as the sleeved cables. Some of them had heatshrink, but the others didn't. I bought the heatshrink-less ones. I guess it's my fault for buying it but I didnt notice how poorly the 24-pin connector was sleeved... I believe they used some paracord type material and you can tell they just forced it onto the cable without using tape over the metal connectors because there is so many rips in the sleeving. I was going to resleeve some of them a different color. About four wires in I realized they broke some of the metal pins and just forced them in there. Extremely disappointed. The 8 pin wasn't perfect, but it was acceptable.


----------



## wipwar

Okay, I have a few questions.

What size sleeving do I need to get for the following wires:

Please help.

---Standard single wires: 24Pin ATX, 12V Motherboard Power, 6-8Pin for VGA, Molex Power, SATA power.

---Single fan wires

---SATA cable

---Jug plug power cable coming out the back of my computer's psu.

Any other cables that I have missed... (I can't think of anymore)

Cheers,

wip


----------



## Lutro0

Ok, that time again! If you have any sleeving questions or just want to hang out please feel free to join!

http://www.livestream.com/lutro0


----------



## wipwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Ok, that time again! If you have any sleeving questions or just want to hang out please feel free to join!
> http://www.livestream.com/lutro0


Online and waiting.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wipwar*
> 
> Online and waiting.


Ah, he just ended it. There didn't seem to be much interest, and since he was only making wires, it wasn't the most interesting Livestream.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wipwar*
> 
> Online and waiting.


Oh sorry buddy, I just closed er down. Shoot me a pm if you have any questions, and to answer your prev question give my sleeving guides a look and the faq is on the third post of the guide thread (link is in my sig)

Also the size of the sleeving really depends on the sleeving maker, some sell it as sata or small sized and some use actual sizes. So if you let us know what sleeving you intend on using we csan get you some links and sizes. =)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Ah, he just ended it. There didn't seem to be much interest, and since he was only making wires, it wasn't the most interesting Livestream.


HEY! You calling me boring... but yea sunday night livestreams are kinda slow. Wire making streams are only fun with lots of questions.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Oh sorry buddy, I just closed er down. Shoot me a pm if you have any questions, and to answer your prev question give my sleeving guides a look and the faq is on the third post of the guide thread (link is in my sig)
> Also the size of the sleeving really depends on the sleeving maker, some sell it as sata or small sized and some use actual sizes. So if you let us know what sleeving you intend on using we csan get you some links and sizes. =)
> HEY! You calling me boring... but yea sunday night livestreams are kinda slow. Wire making streams are only fun with lots of questions.


I did my best *NOT* to call you boring...and it was hard...









"...and you put the sleeve on the wire..."


----------



## wipwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Oh sorry buddy, I just closed er down. Shoot me a pm if you have any questions, and to answer your prev question give my sleeving guides a look and the faq is on the third post of the guide thread (link is in my sig)
> Also the size of the sleeving really depends on the sleeving maker, some sell it as sata or small sized and some use actual sizes. So if you let us know what sleeving you intend on using we csan get you some links and sizes. =)


Amazing support - Quick question:

What brand sleeving do you use?.. (I'm doing all white in the end)

Cheers,

wip


----------



## skitzab1

SSSSSSSSSSssssss.....................


----------



## wlw wl

Amazing that you managed to do that while being upside-down


----------



## pbaines

Sleeved a PSU for a customer, this is what he did with them


----------



## skitzab1

clean


----------



## skitzab1

sorry


----------



## phillyd

shadowhero and i are streaming sleeving now, join in
http://www.ustream.tv/channel/darth-fader


----------



## Lutro0

This thread really needs some more sleeving pics!


----------



## skitzab1

back live







http://www.ustream.tv/channel/skitzab1-live-stream-modding
w/c lian li vb-1000+


----------



## Lutro0




----------



## Ragsters

I am posting my set up here for the first time. Hope you guys like!


----------



## Sybr

Is a macro shot fine too?

3mm Kobra sleeving like you've never seen it before:


----------



## GunSkillet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I am posting my set up here for the first time. Hope you guys like!


Really nice


----------



## Frontside

What diameter size MDPC small sleaving comes?.


----------



## audiofreak95

Got the old rig back up and running.


----------



## Lutro0




----------



## Furion92

Great shots Lutro0! Does she like your extensions?









Are you planning on some live sleeving today?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> Great shots Lutro0! Does she like your extensions?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you planning on some live sleeving today?


=O Its a he -checks- Yup a he. =P

I am! I plan on starting one here sometime soon. I will post here and on facebook!


----------



## Lutro0

Ok guys that time once again.

If you have any questions regarding sleeving or want help with a certain cable. Please feel free to join and ask while I work.

Join @ http://www.livestream.com/lutro0


----------



## Buklyne

NEWS ! NEWS!: new in stock Shade color in MDPC-X sleeving







hope to see it soon.








PS: i count 17 colors and this is the 19th oO)


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buklyne*
> 
> NEWS ! NEWS!: new in stock Shade color in MDPC-X sleeving
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope to see it soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: i count 17 colors and this is the 19th oO)


can you link a pic? i cant find it


----------



## Buklyne

A pic no but it darker than titanum as far as i know


----------



## luciddreamer124

Holy crap I thought that was a tiger skin at first lol...


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

This thread has now been moved to our newest section, one dedicated to cable sleeving.







Several of our staff members as well as Lutro0 were behind the idea and Chipp made it happen, so let's keep things moving.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> This thread has now been moved to our newest section, one dedicated to cable sleeving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several of our staff members as well as Lutro0 were behind the idea and Chipp made it happen, so let's keep things moving.


Very exciting! Great move and should help the sleeving info flow better!

Its great to see a suggestion move so fast and the OCN users benefit!


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Very exciting! Great move and should help the sleeving info flow better!
> Its great to see a suggestion move so fast and the OCN users benefit!


Go to bed!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Go to bed!


But but but, I am answering sleeving threads. =)

That and I have tomorrow off.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> But but but, I am answering sleeving threads. =)
> That and I have tomorrow off.


What happened with the stream?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> What happened with the stream?


I came back for a while and then made a banner for MOTM.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I came back for a while and then made a banner for MOTM.


Ah, I too got creative and made a new avatar.


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

go to bed, both of you.


----------



## skitzab1

he he the thread went for a walk nice move sleep when your dead


----------



## Buklyne

some new pics for the new section


----------



## Lutro0

If you have any sleeving questions or need any advice please feel free to join or just hang out!

Join @ http://www.livestream.com/lutro0


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buklyne*
> 
> some new pics for the new section


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> If you have any sleeving questions or need any advice please feel free to join or just hang out!
> Join @ http://www.livestream.com/lutro0


this is all 2 much


----------



## fakeblood

sleeving from my Tiny Temjin build


----------



## insertacoolname

hmmm, I am thinking of taking the plunge and sleeving my PSU/SATA/fan/anything I can. But I am a bit confused. See my OCZ zt 750w came with PCI-e connectors, and at the GPU they are perfectly normal. But when they reach the PSU one of the cables goes into the same connector as another. As expertly illustrated here, (by use of very expensive photo editing software, state of the art stuff.)
PSU end of cable

GPU end of cable

Any ideas? I fear I might have some trouble using his dual wire technique on the pin holes on the PSU connector, especially with another cable right by it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> sleeving from my Tiny Temjin build


BTW sweet cables, I love the green and black scheme.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *insertacoolname*
> 
> hmmm, I am thinking of taking the plunge and sleeving my PSU/SATA/fan/anything I can. But I am a bit confused. See my OCZ zt 750w came with PCI-e connectors, and at the GPU they are perfectly normal. But when they reach the PSU one of the cables goes into the same connector as another. As expertly illustrated here, (by use of very expensive photo editing software, state of the art stuff.)
> snip
> Any ideas? I fear I might have some trouble using his dual wire technique on the pin holes on the PSU connector, especially with another cable right by it.
> BTW sweet cables, I love the green and black scheme.


Well I will give you two routes one sometimes works and the other is failsafe.

1. Check on the psu for that empty pin and see if there is a pin in it on the psu, if there is check it with a volt meter - sometimes they leave the pin it in and it will work fine however sometimes thats not the case. If it is you can just wire it as a normal cable.

2. Split the double cable someplace along the line in a hidden place (behind the mobo tray) and make a Y split so that their is a single pin on each end.

You will never want to try to stuff two sleeved cables into one atx connector, as it looks ugly and most of the time very hard to do.

Does that all make sense.


----------



## GunSkillet

Is there any guides about making your own pci-e and 24pin extensions? If not which extensions do you guys use to sleeve, because I see a lot of them I see on newegg two pins go into one connector, and I read comments on another review saying that the pins dont come out.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunSkillet*
> 
> Is there any guides about making your own pci-e and 24pin extensions? If not which extensions do you guys use to sleeve, because I see a lot of them I see on newegg two pins go into one connector, and I read comments on another review saying that the pins dont come out.


Most of us crimp our own wires and make them from scratch or at least if you sell them it should be like that.

However you will want to find an extensions that uses 18awg wire nothing more nothing less and that is 12in or less otherwise you may get noise/ripple with the addition of the extra length.

There is not a specific one I could recommend as I make my own however someone else may have a specific seller they like.


----------



## TwentyCent

I would like to go with Furryletter's clean cut, and I want to individually sleeve my various PSU cables. 1/8" is the size I should order right?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> I would like to go with Furryletter's clean cut, and I want to individually sleeve my various PSU cables. 1/8" is the size I should order right?


Correct sir! Make sure to just call him as he will give you a better price and shipping. His number is on the listings.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8-BRAIDED-EXPANDABLE-SLEEVING-CLEAN-CUT-25ft-/360266476987?pt=Car_Audio_Video&vxp=mtr&hash=item53e18e2dbb#ht_500wt_1180


----------



## TwentyCent

Thanks!


----------



## GunSkillet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Most of us crimp our own wires and make them from scratch or at least if you sell them it should be like that.
> However you will want to find an extensions that uses 18awg wire nothing more nothing less and that is 12in or less otherwise you may get noise/ripple with the addition of the extra length.
> There is not a specific one I could recommend as I make my own however someone else may have a specific seller they like.


Thanks, but I thought each wire is different and needs to have a certain amount of volts? So now I'm assuming they are all the same, but I just need to make sure that each wire goes to to the corresponding hole on the other connector, correct?

Also, just for clarification, If I were to make a 12" 24 pin connector, I would need

Approximately 30 Feet of this:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1785/ele-129/18AWG_Wire_-_Black.html

24 of these
http://ftwpc.com/cables-and-sleeving/sleeving-tools/crimp-contacts/molex-mini-fit-jr-atx-eps-pci-express-pins-female.html

24 of these
http://ftwpc.com/cables-and-sleeving/sleeving-tools/crimp-contacts/molex-mini-fit-jr-atx-eps-pci-express-pins-female-1.html

1 of these
http://ftwpc.com/cables-and-sleeving/sleeving-tools/cable-housings-connectors/ftw-pc-24-pin-atx-female-connector-black-1.html

And 1 of these
http://ftwpc.com/cables-and-sleeving/sleeving-tools/cable-housings-connectors/ftw-pc-24-pin-atx-female-connector-black.html

If I'm correct, do you have any recommendations to buy these materials? Partly because some of these things aren't in stock, and partly due to the fact that It would cost about $13 just to make a 24 pin extension, which costs more than the Pre-made Pre-sleeved extensions.


----------



## insertacoolname

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Well I will give you two routes one sometimes works and the other is failsafe.
> 1. Check on the psu for that empty pin and see if there is a pin in it on the psu, if there is check it with a volt meter - sometimes they leave the pin it in and it will work fine however sometimes thats not the case. If it is you can just wire it as a normal cable.
> 2. Split the double cable someplace along the line in a hidden place (behind the mobo tray) and make a Y split so that their is a single pin on each end.
> You will never want to try to stuff two sleeved cables into one atx connector, as it looks ugly and most of the time very hard to do.
> Does that all make sense.


I am not sure if you think that there are 2 cables and you are telling me to make them 1 cable and sleeve it, or if you think there is 1 cable and you think I should split it. And I made a mistake, I assumed that since my connectors are regular PCI-e at both ends (which I realize in hindsight was pretty stupid.) the wires would be in the same places at both ends. But it was the +2 wires to make it from 6 pin to 8 pin (if that makes sense.) I will check the PSU when I get home, and take some pictures of the connector.

later...

Here are the pictures, after checking my PSU, there is a pin there (yay) I don't know if it is live yet.


----------



## Outlawed

I really want to do this, but out of all the tutorials and videos here, I don't see anything on sleeving the cables that are physically attached to the psu that can't simply be unplugged, like the mobo 24 pin for example. Looking for the process to removing these cables from the psu in order to sleeve them.

Maybe I am just blind but can I be directed to someplace that shows me how and are there any extra tools that aren't listed here needed fro that process? Thanks!

Also want use MDPX but more importantly need UV reactive green. Do they make that?


----------



## insertacoolname

No luck, the pin isn't grounded, any helpful links/tips for a wire noob trying to make his case beautiful? Should I open up the PSU (voiding the warranty, not that I mind that much) and see if I can ground the pin then?

edit: This question probably belongs to another thread...


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> I really want to do this, but out of all the tutorials and videos here, I don't see anything on sleeving the cables that are physically attached to the psu that can't simply be unplugged, like the mobo 24 pin for example. Looking for the process to removing these cables from the psu in order to sleeve them.
> Maybe I am just blind but can I be directed to someplace that shows me how and are there any extra tools that aren't listed here needed fro that process? Thanks!
> Also want use MDPX but more importantly need UV reactive green. Do they make that?


You don't remove the wires. Just remove the pin from the connector and then slide the sleeve/paracord down and then you can heatshrink inside or ziptie to hold it all in place.
I removed multiple cables at once, put a big piece of heatshrink over them and that held it all snug. Good luck


----------



## Big Elf

insertacoolname - I did as Lutro0 has suggested and spliced the dual wires on my cables following Ontic's Guide Step 16 onwards. It works and if you take your time looks neat.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunSkillet*
> 
> Thanks, but I thought each wire is different and needs to have a certain amount of volts? So now I'm assuming they are all the same, but I just need to make sure that each wire goes to to the corresponding hole on the other connector, correct?
> Also, just for clarification, If I were to make a 12" 24 pin connector, I would need
> Approximately 30 Feet of this:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1785/ele-129/18AWG_Wire_-_Black.html
> 24 of these
> http://ftwpc.com/cables-and-sleeving/sleeving-tools/crimp-contacts/molex-mini-fit-jr-atx-eps-pci-express-pins-female.html
> 24 of these
> http://ftwpc.com/cables-and-sleeving/sleeving-tools/crimp-contacts/molex-mini-fit-jr-atx-eps-pci-express-pins-female-1.html
> 1 of these
> http://ftwpc.com/cables-and-sleeving/sleeving-tools/cable-housings-connectors/ftw-pc-24-pin-atx-female-connector-black-1.html
> And 1 of these
> http://ftwpc.com/cables-and-sleeving/sleeving-tools/cable-housings-connectors/ftw-pc-24-pin-atx-female-connector-black.html
> If I'm correct, do you have any recommendations to buy these materials? Partly because some of these things aren't in stock, and partly due to the fact that It would cost about $13 just to make a 24 pin extension, which costs more than the Pre-made Pre-sleeved extensions.


That all looks right. I would get the male 24pin connector without the wings, it can be found on PerfPC But everything else is perfect. You will need a crimper as well and I would get plenty of extra wire and extra crimps as you will mess allot of until you get the hang of it.

If you don't have a pin remover you will want one of those as well, get the Original Molex Pin Remover.

Yea its kinda pricey but there is always a price to get things done right. Its pricey to get the supplies for one 24pin but if you were doing a whole system it would equal out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *insertacoolname*
> 
> I am not sure if you think that there are 2 cables and you are telling me to make them 1 cable and sleeve it, or if you think there is 1 cable and you think I should split it. And I made a mistake, I assumed that since my connectors are regular PCI-e at both ends (which I realize in hindsight was pretty stupid.) the wires would be in the same places at both ends. But it was the +2 wires to make it from 6 pin to 8 pin (if that makes sense.) I will check the PSU when I get home, and take some pictures of the connector.
> later...
> Here are the pictures, after checking my PSU, there is a pin there (yay) I don't know if it is live yet.
> -snip-


Yup same thing applies, Big Elf posted a great tutorial on it made by Ontic.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> I really want to do this, but out of all the tutorials and videos here, I don't see anything on sleeving the cables that are physically attached to the psu that can't simply be unplugged, like the mobo 24 pin for example. Looking for the process to removing these cables from the psu in order to sleeve them.
> Maybe I am just blind but can I be directed to someplace that shows me how and are there any extra tools that aren't listed here needed fro that process? Thanks!
> Also want use MDPX but more importantly need UV reactive green. Do they make that?


You can do 1 of two things.

A. Open up the psu and sleeve it up inside the psu and then shrink it off inside and then zip tie the whole thing to hold them secure (best method) If you check out my Aspros Mod it will show you exactly what I mean but this, I took many photos of it so it should make sense.

B. Dont open the psu and sleeve it up to the end and then use a large peice of heatshrink to shrink it right by the opening (no so good method)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *insertacoolname*
> 
> No luck, the pin isn't grounded, any helpful links/tips for a wire noob trying to make his case beautiful? Should I open up the PSU (voiding the warranty, not that I mind that much) and see if I can ground the pin then?
> edit: This question probably belongs to another thread...


I would just check out Ontics guide that will explain it. Big Elf Posted it. Only use Ontics guide for the split wire method as his sleeving method is a bit experimental and should be done by experienced sleevers.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> insertacoolname - I did as Lutro0 has suggested and spliced the dual wires on my cables following Ontic's Guide Step 16 onwards. It works and if you take your time looks neat.


Yup thats a great guide for the split wire!


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> That all looks right. I would get the male 24pin connector without the wings


What are the wings used for? Just curious.


----------



## Big Elf

Panel mounting. Until recently here in the UK it's been difficult to get hold of these without the wings.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> Panel mounting. Until recently here in the UK it's been difficult to get hold of these without the wings.


Any pics? I'm not entirely sure what you mean by panel mounting.


----------



## Big Elf

I can't find any pics but if you imagine, for example, a box that requires a fixed connector (similar to the fixed connectors in the back of a modular PSU) then the wings hold it in place.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> I can't find any pics but if you imagine, for example, a box that requires a fixed connector (similar to the fixed connectors in the back of a modular PSU) then the wings hold it in place.


That makes sense now, thanks.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> What are the wings used for? Just curious.


As big elf said panel mounting. He is very well versed in alot of this and a great resource.


----------



## Rye26

here's my share


----------



## carmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rye26*
> 
> here's my share
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very nice


----------



## rgrwng

what should i do? i am working on my mini-itx build, and it uses a single 4-pin EPS, instead of 8. the PSU i have has an 8-pin one (and the wattage is quite OP for the build), how should i go about hiding the other half of the cable? right now it's kind of looped in the open area of the case, hanging around. should i just remove it?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> what should i do? i am working on my mini-itx build, and it uses a single 4-pin EPS, instead of 8. the PSU i have has an 8-pin one (and the wattage is quite OP for the build), how should i go about hiding the other half of the cable? right now it's kind of looped in the open area of the case, hanging around. should i just remove it?


If you feel adventurous, you could do what I do and just trim all unneeded cables inside the PSU which removes them almost completely.


----------



## Big Elf

The pinouts on the 8 Pin CPU connector are 12V and Ground so you could make them into a 4 pin type Molex with just a 12V supply (and ground) connected (5v and Ground left empty). The use would be limited to simple components that only use a 12v supply e.g. Fan controller but they'd then still be available should you need them in future.

If it's a single rail PSU I doubt there'd be a problem but you might have to do some calculations with a multi rail PSU to ensure it wasn't overloaded.


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> You can do 1 of two things.
> A. Open up the psu and sleeve it up inside the psu and then shrink it off inside and then zip tie the whole thing to hold them secure (best method) If you check out my Aspros Mod it will show you exactly what I mean but this, I took many photos of it so it should make sense.
> B. Dont open the psu and sleeve it up to the end and then use a large peice of heatshrink to shrink it right by the opening (no so good method)
> I


Hmm, I'll take a look at it, thanks!!! I have never opened up a psu but from the description it seems like it shouldn't be too big of a deal. Plus that means I can possibly add a new fan with some lighting now









Your videos are awesome and very informative, best on the net! That said, as I was saying earlier this seems like this is one of the main things that would need to be done when sleeving a psu. I am surprised you haven't gone over it yet.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Hmm, I'll take a look at it, thanks!!! I have never opened up a psu but from the description it seems like it shouldn't be too big of a deal. Plus that means I can possibly add a new fan with some lighting now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your videos are awesome and very informative, best on the net! That said, as I was saying earlier this seems like this is one of the main things that would need to be done when sleeving a psu. I am surprised you haven't gone over it yet.


Funny that you mention that lol - I have a custom powdercoated powersupply that I did that I plan on making a video with, however moving and the new job take priority right now - but once I am moved in its video time! Once I get rolling I will have a bunch come out right away, including reviews on 5 new types of sleeving!


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Funny that you mention that lol - I have a custom powdercoated powersupply that I did that I plan on making a video with, however moving and the new job take priority right now - but once I am moved in its video time! Once I get rolling I will have a bunch come out right away, including reviews on 5 new types of sleeving!


I understand, life always comes before the hobby









I will be looking forward to those videos intently, thanks again!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I should have found this thread a month ago, and I wouldn't be in the situation that I'm in now with my cables.


----------



## Rye26

is there a technique on how to place shrink tubes on those dual cable so they'll easily fit the sockets?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rye26*
> 
> is there a technique on how to place shrink tubes on those dual cable so they'll easily fit the sockets?


Check out Ontics Guide at step 16: http://www.overclock.net/t/1175308/sleeving-the-beginners-guide/0_20


----------



## Rye26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Check out Ontics Guide at step 16: http://www.overclock.net/t/1175308/sleeving-the-beginners-guide/0_20


Thanks for the link.. will check it out


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Beautiful work & great Tut's. Thank you


----------



## gutcheck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


These are so nice. Honestly I don't know how you guys do this. I can't wait to put these in my case. The Corsair sleaved wires are actually too short to run behind my PC I should show you how ugly it is right now. When these get installed I'll post the PC here.


----------



## bob808

Hey guys- I've got a sleeving question I'm hoping I can get a quick response as I am in the middle of sleeving right now









I'm doing the 24-pin on an HX1000, which is hardwired.
There are 3 or 4 holes in the plug that have 2 wires going into them (one wire a little thinner than the other).

*Do I put both wires in one sleeve? or do I splice the wires together inside the psu and run only one wire to the plug?*

A prompt answer would be greatly apprieciated!


----------



## bob808

I've got a sleeving question.
I'm doing the 24-pin on an HX1000, which is hardwired.
There are 3 or 4 holes in the plug that have 2 wires going into them (one wire a little thinner than the other).
*Do I put both wires in one sleeve? or do I splice the wires together inside the psu and run only one wire to the plug?*
A prompt answer would be greatly apprieciated!
here's a picture of my dilemmia-









I'm afraid that I would not be able to fit both wires, sleeve, and shrinkwrap into the socket hole.


----------



## Big Elf

Ontic's guide, Step 16

Edit: I should have read more carefully. As it's a fixed cable you'd have to put the sleeving on some of it before you spliced it. Opening it up to splice it would be the neatest solution but you'd lose your warranty.

Alternatively you could just create an extension for the 24 pin connector.


----------



## bob808

+rep!
I have already voided the warranty...








so it's safe to splice the wires then?
I figure that will be the cleanest way to do it.


----------



## Big Elf

Yes, as long as you do a good, soldered splice and cover with heatshrink it's fine. You'd be amazed how many times this has been asked recently.


----------



## wlw wl

You might just as well remove one wire if you're going to splice them like this. Such a connection makes no sense.

The reason for double wires in some connections, on your picture on the +12V line, is to increase the gauge of the wire on that line to allow for more current to flow through than it could with single 18AWG wire. When you're splicing the wires creating a Y connection like that, you're leaving that single wire thinner that the double wire part, that's a bad idea. You could just use a thicker wire on the line that has double wires, or use a Y connection but use a thicker wire on the single wire part of it. Making a Y connection where all 3 segments are the same gauge makes no sense, V connection would make sense, as II connection would too.


----------



## Big Elf

From what I was told by Seasonic the double wires are used to reduce impedance and increase the stability of the voltage not to increase' the 'gauge' of the wire, after all it would have been easier for the manufacturer to just use a 16AWG instead.

Edit: Just to add that that's the reason they use them on the 24 pin cable.


----------



## bob808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> You might just as well remove one wire if you're going to splice them like this. Such a connection makes no sense.


except that I traced the wires and they actually go to 2 different places in the psu. One goes to the mainboard, and the other goes to one of the daughter-boards. If they just wanted more AWG guage, I think they would have just used 16 guage wire instead of 18 and 22 (or whatever).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Yes, as long as you do a good, soldered splice and cover with heatshrink it's fine. You'd be amazed how many times this has been asked recently.


Yeah, I figured it had been asked before, but this is a might long thread to go scrolling for answers... Thanks and plus rep to you guys








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> From what I was told by Seasonic the double wires are used to reduce impedance and increase the stability of the voltage not to increase' the 'gauge' of the wire, after all it would have been easier for the manufacturer to just use a 16AWG instead.
> Edit: Just to add that that's the reason they use them on the 24 pin cable.


hmmm.. not sure what to do still.. I would like to splice them, and dont see how it would be any different than using an extension (that does not have 2 wires going to one hole to reduce impedance)


----------



## Big Elf

It was the one of the first questions I ever asked too


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob808*
> 
> except that I traced the wires and they actually go to 2 different places in the psu. One goes to the mainboard, and the other goes to one of the daughter-boards. If they just wanted more AWG guage, I think they would have just used 16 guage wire instead of 18 and 22 (or whatever).
> Yeah, I figured it had been asked before, but this is a might long thread to go scrolling for answers... Thanks and plus rep to you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hmmm.. not sure what to do still.. I would like to splice them, and dont see how it would be any different than using an extension (that does not have 2 wires going to one hole to reduce impedance)


here is what i did for the same problem your having
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hartk1213*
> 
> 
> this is the way i managed to sleeve the double pins in the 24pin instead of a "V" connection it is now a "Y" connection


----------



## Big Elf

bob808 - If you splice them in the PSU it's still the same as them being connected to the single pin at the connector so will work just the same. The power is still coming from 2 different sources.


----------



## bob808

cool! thanks guys!
I spliced them in the psu box so you wont even see it









I'm going to have to do it again at least 2 more times...


----------



## Lutro0

Yup, the Y connector method has been done for years now and no one has ever had an issue with it.

Sadly there is alot of little things with power supplies that sometimes dont make electrical "sense" however the workarounds just work.

Good job on the prompt answers BE!


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> From what I was told by Seasonic the double wires are used to reduce impedance and increase the stability of the voltage not to increase' the 'gauge' of the wire.


It's the same thing. The resistance of copper is 0,017 Ω*mm2/m, 1 meter of 18AWG has a resistance of 0,021Ω while 1 meter of 16AWG wire has a resistance of 0,013Ω. Increasing the gauge = decreasing the resistance.
So it only makes sense if the wire indeed goes to another circuit inside the PSU, maybe the voltage sensing is moved to the connector end of the main wire.


----------



## bob808

heeeyy LutroO-
Thanks for all the guides and videos! i read a bunch and watched like 2 hours of your video tutorials!
Much apprieciated and +rep to you kind sir! I wish I would have bought the precut pieces of shrink... not sure what I was thinking...


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob808*
> 
> Hey guys- I've got a sleeving question I'm hoping I can get a quick response as I am in the middle of sleeving right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm doing the 24-pin on an HX1000, which is hardwired.
> There are 3 or 4 holes in the plug that have 2 wires going into them (one wire a little thinner than the other).
> *Do I put both wires in one sleeve? or do I splice the wires together inside the psu and run only one wire to the plug?*
> A prompt answer would be greatly apprieciated!


they both fit inside one sleeve, be it paracord or mdpc. I know because my xfx was the same way.
if they are wrapped around other wires then splicing or recrimping would work well


----------



## Big Elf

You're right in that dual wires will generally fit into a single sleeve. However there's 2 problems with doing it that way. One is that it's often impossible to get both sleeved wires with or without heatshrink back into the connector and the other is that it looks terrible.


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> You're right in that dual wires will generally fit into a single sleeve. However there's 2 problems with doing it that way. One is that it's often impossible to get both sleeved wires with or without heatshrink back into the connector and the other is that it looks terrible.


with 2 16awg wires yes it is. By the way he described one of them is 22 or 18 awg. One is so thin that is 2-3 inner strands and is very very negligible in terms of size


----------



## Big Elf

Still will struggle to fit and will look terrible.


----------



## Furion92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> You might just as well remove one wire if you're going to splice them like this. Such a connection makes no sense.
> The reason for double wires in some connections, on your picture on the +12V line, is to increase the gauge of the wire on that line to allow for more current to flow through than it could with single 18AWG wire. When you're splicing the wires creating a Y connection like that, you're leaving that single wire thinner that the double wire part, that's a bad idea. You could just use a thicker wire on the line that has double wires, or use a Y connection but use a thicker wire on the single wire part of it. Making a Y connection where all 3 segments are the same gauge makes no sense, V connection would make sense, as II connection would too.


Hey wlw wl, I think it would be safer if you'd edit that post. Otherwise HX1000 might read up to your post and then remove their second cables.

It's funny that you wrote "[...]Such a connection makes no sense.", because that's exactly what it's there for: "sensing"







This connection is needed and the power supply will not function properly if it's removed.

The only PSU I've seen your described "gauge increasing" double wires so far, is the Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid. Let me know if you know others, because that's useful stuff for Lutro0's guide.


----------



## wlw wl

Every decent PSU has the voltage sensing implemented, but it's on the inside obviously. Why would they move it to the connector if the sensing wire will gather EMI - I don't know. And I don't care frankly.


----------



## bob808

I went ahead and spliced the wires like so-









and then covered it with heatshrink.
I think I'll be good to go, but I guess we'll find out









I had a twenty hour sleeving marathon on a hard kitchen chair (god I'm a glutton for punishment) and got the 24-pin, 2x pci-e (6+2), and an 8-pin aux cpu cable all sleeved.
My first time sleeving. I eyeballed the heatshrink, and it's not very even...... but hey it's my first time.
I'm pretty sure I got all the cables right because I did most of them 1 or 2 at a time.
I need to redo a few cables as the sleeving does not extend into the psu case.

Here's a couple pics of the result of my slave labor-


----------



## Furion92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Every decent PSU has the voltage sensing implemented, but it's on the inside obviously. Why would they move it to the connector if the sensing wire will gather EMI - I don't know. And I don't care frankly.


Yes you're right, every decent PSU has a voltage reading -> sensing. It's ATX standard. I don't know what you mean by EMI, but it takes the voltage straight from the MB connector in order to compensate the voltage drop that's happening from the power supply to the end of the wire. If the voltage would be measured inside the PSU, that voltage drop would be disregarded.

If you read a review about a power supply that doesn't have proper v-sensing, you'll see that it doesn't work that good when it's only implemented inside the actual unit.
For example:
Quote:


> There you have it, a list of the cables. Interestingly, the main ATX cable has a vsense wire for the 3.3V rail. Why? There's no facility for actually using it as such. The connectors on both ends are identical, and can plug into the PSU on either side. That vsense wire terminates at the same pin on both ends. So, there's no way for the unit to sense what the end plugged into the motherboard is doing. Therefore, vsense stops at the modular connector panel. This could have a profound impact on our voltage numbers in load testing. We shall see.


you can read on right there: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=259


----------



## wlw wl

I read it and I would say it has more to do with the unit design than where do you sense the voltage, as the cable isn't a variable because it's length or gauge doesn't change when the load changes, so you can sense the voltage inside the PSU and account for the wire and you'd have the same result. But if the PSU i poorly designed, or well designed but poorly executed, no amount of sensors will make up for that, and you see that PSU in that review isn't as great as the label claims, the efficiency is the first indicator. Anyway, I think we got a bit carried away


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

Here is mine! (sorry pics from my phone)







)













It is not completely finished, still have some case mods, cables to sleeve, and watercooling to add.








Note: to all you Antec 1200 owners, the window mod is so simple, and as you can see looks amazing!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THE BEAR JEW*
> 
> Here is mine! (sorry pics from my phone)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> -snip
> It is not completely finished, still have some case mods, cables to sleeve, and watercooling to add.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note: to all you Antec 1200 owners, the window mod is so simple, and as you can see looks amazing!


Good job! Always love the bright colors and black themes!


----------



## kyismaster

reminds me of...

"this is halloween, this is halloween, halloween, halloween, in the dead of night." lol


----------



## GunSkillet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THE BEAR JEW*
> 
> Here is mine! (sorry pics from my phone)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is not completely finished, still have some case mods, cables to sleeve, and watercooling to add.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note: to all you Antec 1200 owners, the window mod is so simple, and as you can see looks amazing!


Looks like it's on fire...


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

It looks terrible due to the ultra quality phone camera, but looks 10x better in real life, its not as "red-ish."


----------



## bob808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THE BEAR JEW*
> 
> Here is mine! (sorry pics from my phone)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> It is not completely finished, still have some case mods, cables to sleeve, and watercooling to add.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note: to all you Antec 1200 owners, the window mod is so simple, and as you can see looks amazing!


Looks good bud!
Why did you put the psu fan on the outside of the unit though?
Were you not able to fit it back in the unit?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob808*
> 
> Looks good bud!
> Why did you put the psu fan on the outside of the unit though?
> Were you not able to fit it back in the unit?


i just noticed that!









your good. good question, i 2nd this.


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

Yea I had to drill another hole in the psu to route the cables through. When I sleeved it, the pci-e and motherboard cables were touching the fan, so I had to mount the fan outside of the psu. I actually kinda like the way it looks.









Man, looking at these pictures again I really need to clean up those cables some more. Thinking I will do so when the WC loop goes in later this summer.


----------



## nawon72

Here are the Molex Catalogues: http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?qtjlhed3xl6m984 Taken from here and re-uploaded for much faster download.

It should be much easier to navigate then Molex's site.

I haven't gone through it yet, but I did find the fan pins (C-52) and connectors (C-54). If you find anything that isn't already well known, then share it here. Include the name we general use for it, the part number, and where you found it in this format: "Name", "Part Number", "Catalogue and page"

ex. 3Pin Fan Connector (Female), 22-01-3037, C-54


----------



## em ht

I will post some new color !
grey-carbon



bloody red



hope you like!


----------



## lowfat

MDPC-X grand bleu + combat green.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> MDPC-X grand bleu + combat green.


That reminds me of insects for some reason. You know, how their eyes/body sections can have those weird colors? Looks good!


----------



## phillyd

Sleeving glamour shots








sorry one is pretty blurry


----------



## em ht

Another UV green.....



or yellow ?


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> You cannot buy MDPC sleeve, nor the crimping tool, at any other online vendor.


You can:

Crimper: http://www.sleeveking.pl/pl/p/Zaciskarka-MDPC-Crimping-Tool/139 (translated: ClickMe)

Sleeving: http://www.sleeveking.pl/pl/c/Oploty/78 (translated ex.: ClickMe) Apparently the MDPC sleeving is nylon.

I wonder if Nils knows about this...

Don't buy from them:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> nawon72 - I tried buying the crimp tool from them, they are unresponsive. I placed the order, got a confirmation with a 7 day waiting period, but when I said that I'll pay when they have the actual thing in stock, I got no further response. Also didn't get a response from them for some other item quotes I asked. So pretty much - no, you can't buy fit from them.


----------



## KoSoVaR^

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *em ht*
> 
> I will post some new color !
> grey-carbon
> 
> bloody red
> 
> hope you like!


I wanna see more of that, and whre did you get it btw ?
The red one of course!


----------



## wlw wl

nawon72 - I tried buying the crimp tool from them, they are unresponsive. I placed the order, got a confirmation with a 7 day waiting period, but when I said that I'll pay when they have the actual thing in stock, I got no further response. Also didn't get a response from them for some other item quotes I asked. So pretty much - no, you can't buy fit from them.

Besides, why shouldn't you be able to buy MDPC stuff from 3rd party? If you want to buy small amounts, the shipment costs are a killer even for me - a neighboring country. So it would be pretty reasonable for someone to get wholesale amounts and then sell small amounts to me or you.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> Besides, why shouldn't you be able to buy MDPC stuff from 3rd party? If you want to buy small amounts, the shipment costs are a killer even for me - a neighboring country. So it would be pretty reasonable for someone to get wholesale amounts and then sell small amounts to me or you.


Unfortunately, you can only get MDPC stuff from MDPC.







Hopefully this changes, especially with the store being closed 99.9% of the time.


----------



## KoSoVaR^

Here is something from me









Black and White sleeve from MDPC-X.



You can see more of my Sleevingwork here by liking me on my facebook page


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> Unfortunately, you can only get MDPC stuff from MDPC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully this changes, especially with the store being closed 99.9% of the time.


That is what make MDPC special. Nils doesn't want to resell to the big companies, because he likes the personal nature of his business. He feels it would force him to compromise on quality if he were to become a 'shop'


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> That is what make MDPC special. Nils doesn't want to resell to the big companies, because he likes the personal nature of his business. He feels it would force him to compromise on quality if he were to become a 'shop'


i have never bought from nils but where does he buy the sleeve from or does he make it?? sorry if this is a stupid question


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hartk1213*
> 
> i have never bought from nils but where does he buy the sleeve from or does he make it?? sorry if this is a stupid question


He doesn't make it himself, but AFAIK, it's his product. That's why he's so adamant about not reselling, and 'big companies' and 'shop' mentalities. Nils believes in a collaborative creative vision.









It's really not hard to place an order via MDPC-x.com. Just know the next time he's open, and be ready. He's open at different times everyday, so surely a day will fit into one's schedule at some point.









I've sucessfully made 3 orders with MDPC-X.com. My first two arrived with no issues, and I'm currently awaiting my 3rd.


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> He doesn't make it himself, but AFAIK, it's his product. That's why he's so adamant about not reselling, and 'big companies' and 'shop' mentalities. Nils believes in a collaborative creative vision.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's really not hard to place an order via MDPC-x.com. Just know the next time he's open, and be ready. He's open at different times everyday, so surely a day will fit into one's schedule at some point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've sucessfully made 3 orders with MDPC-X.com. My first two arrived with no issues, and I'm currently awaiting my 3rd.


thanks buddy thats what i wanted to know +rep


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoSoVaR^*
> 
> I wanna see more of that, and whre did you get it btw ?
> The red one of course!


another red a bit lighter and vanilla-yellow





I got it from one Romanian private seller (0,5 euro/m), and I'm happy for quality since is high-density 3 strands and the color is a little bit darker als MDPC's red. Unfortunate for that bloody-red I made only one picture.If I will made more I will let you know.


----------



## MijnWraak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> This thread has now been moved to our newest section, one dedicated to cable sleeving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several of our staff members as well as Lutro0 were behind the idea and Chipp made it happen, so let's keep things moving.


Woohoo!


----------



## ghostrider85

hello there, do you know where i can buy the pins for the 24pin atx, 8 pin CPU, and the 6+2pin video card power? i wanna shorten my cables so i need new pins, and how about the extraction tool? thanks in advance!


----------



## gutcheck

And here they are:


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gutcheck*
> 
> And here they are:


Wow nice rig ! clean job !


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Sleeving glamour shots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry one is pretty blurry


Nah, its perfectly in focus (of the desk in the background)









Kidding aside, the build turned out great. I like the anodized hose clamps.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> hello there, do you know where i can buy the pins for the 24pin atx, 8 pin CPU, and the 6+2pin video card power? i wanna shorten my cables so i need new pins, and how about the extraction tool? thanks in advance!


*ATX Female Pins*

*Molex ATX Extraction Tool* - Part Code 11-03-0044


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Gutcheck, that looks incredible! Congrats on a gorgeous system


----------



## Sybr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gutcheck*
> 
> And here they are:


The color scheme looks amazing. Great sleeving choice. The only thing that bothers me is your tubing: I dont like it when tubes cross, it just not über-clean


----------



## gutcheck

I can re-do it. How would you do it?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gutcheck*
> 
> And here they are:


Yea gutcheck nice cables!


----------



## Sybr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gutcheck*
> 
> I can re-do it. How would you do it?


pump->120 rad
120 rad->bottom right mobo in
bottom left mobo out->cpu in
cpu out->top left mobo in
top right mobo out->240 rad
240 rad-> res->pump

I'm not sure if it will be possible without 90° fittings though. Anyway, just a suggestion, tube routing is difficult


----------



## randomnerd865

@gutcheck
Most people don't realize that the route of the tube has almost no affect on temps. So the cleanest, and least difficult path is often the best.


----------



## Ramsey77

My colors. Ebay paracord.


----------



## audioholic

Love that kind of paracord!!!
Looks great for sure! I did notice it was a little harder to work with as it was a bit thicker than the solid colors.


----------



## Ramsey77

I had good luck with it. I wish I wouldn't have wasted money on sleeving now. Paracord is the best.....and CHEAP!


----------



## Sukach

Ordered some MDPC-X Black and Color X. Hopefully it's as good as it's made out to be.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sukach*
> 
> Ordered some MDPC-X Black and Color X. Hopefully it's as good as it's made out to be.


It is.


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sukach*
> 
> Ordered some MDPC-X Black and Color X. Hopefully it's as good as it's made out to be.


it is. Its plastic but im sure you already know that. Mdpc-x is the luxury of sleeving. Its one of those thing where you want to spend. So far i've spent 300$ on sleeving and crimps,crimpers,housing and all of that. It all started with one mdpc-x order... Be warned








Although my extensions i've made do look amazing. Ill post a pic when i finish my 6+6pin


----------



## Sukach

I bought a bunch of stuff before reading about Enermax PSU's. I hear there is alot of double wires.

Is there a decent guide to working with double wires somebody can point me to? Is that covered in the tutorial videos in the OP? I did a little looking around but I was hoping somebody here has good knowledge of what I'm getting myself into.


----------



## Big Elf

Have a look at *Ontic's guide* for splicing, step 16 onwards.


----------



## goodtobeking

Just got my sleeving supplies from FTWPC last week. I sleeved an 8 pin PCIe extension. Didnt turn out as good as I would like, but hey you gotta start somewhere. Can someone point me to a decent paracord sleeving guide without heatshrink?? The heatshrink I got doesnt grip the wire at all even when I melt it down to the point it starts melting/burning


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Just got my sleeving supplies from FTWPC last week. I sleeved an 8 pin PCIe extension. Didnt turn out as good as I would like, but hey you gotta start somewhere. Can someone point me to a decent paracord sleeving guide without heatshrink?? The heatshrink I got doesnt grip the wire at all even when I melt it down to the point it starts melting/burning


Search YouTube for some tutorials. I found a bunch of good ones. Paracord is totally easy once you get the hang of it. I wrap the leads with etape to prevent snagging, and use just a tiny bit of super glue to hold the cord in place at the ends. Much better than screwing around with heatshrink IMO.


----------



## mordocai rp

made my first real extensions, a 6+6 pin one like lutro0;


however mine looks mediocre in quality next to his, but hey its an accomplishment for me







ill post a pic of it in the card later today


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> My colors. Ebay paracord.


looks like black widow!


----------



## Ramsey77

Yup. That is it alright.


----------



## strych9

First sleeving attempt (and also first few shots with my Nikon D5100), couldn't get the pins out of the 24-pin cable, so just had to do the 6-pin.


----------



## Gen Ross

First sleeving! This was a throw away practice attempt so I had to cover all my bases.

- Figured out how little paracord stretches
- Used bad heatshrink
- Used no heatshrink
- Cramping cables into molex holes
- Braided!


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Search YouTube for some tutorials. I found a bunch of good ones. Paracord is totally easy once you get the hang of it. I wrap the leads with etape to prevent snagging, and use just a tiny bit of super glue to hold the cord in place at the ends. Much better than screwing around with heatshrink IMO.


Sounds easy to look up, but my internet is so bad I cant watch videos. So I am looking more so for a guide like Ontics guide, but for no heatshrink.


----------



## mordocai rp

what do you guys think?


----------



## mandrix

Guys, can you tell me what size shrink for individual fan wires? I'm going to make some extensions so I need to solder and shrink before I sleeve. I have some 26 gauge wire on the way.
Never mind, ordered some 1/8.


----------



## Buklyne

hi, for fans i advise you to use sata shrink but individual wire sleeving with 26 awg wire it will be very hard to do. you'd beter do it with one sleeve.
hope i helped you


----------



## Lutro0

Some recent fully custom extensions, these were 24in long and a beast to manage!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buklyne*
> 
> hi, for fans i advise you to use sata shrink but individual wire sleeving with 26 awg wire it will be very hard to do. you'd beter do it with one sleeve.
> hope i helped you


Thanks, but the shrink is for the individual wires on the male connector. I have some paracord for the sleeving (all 3 wires together). This will be my first adventure into sleeving, thought I'd start out with the fan wires on current build by making some extensions and then sleeving. Getting ready to start a new build and trying to get my skills together.

@Lutro0, looks very nice.


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Some recent fully custom extensions, these were 24in long and a beast to manage!


look great as usual ! sleeve is mdpc ?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *em ht*
> 
> look great as usual ! sleeve is mdpc ?


always mdpc


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Some recent fully custom extensions, these were 24in long and a beast to manage!


nice work there that pic is a nice one

im almost finished the li-raw














cant wait till im finished moving so i can go back to getting jobs done faster


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> always mdpc


Why are you so sure ? I used/buy some non MDPC ! In quality is equal with, density, strands, shining, melt point....and even cheaper !


----------



## mandrix

Well I did my first sleeving today. Fan wires in paracord. Looks ok but my old hands hurt like heck. So, are there any good guides out there??


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *em ht*
> 
> Why are you so sure ? I used/buy some non MDPC ! In quality is equal with, density, strands, shining, melt point....and even cheaper !


the strands and density are not the same. It may seem that way but mdpc is the only one who uses 3strands. Lutro0 always uses mdpc or paracord, unless its a special type of wire. Trust us, it's mdpc.
MDPC quality one of fine detail, its a luxury thing that you should do if you can afford. Like with computer cases, cars, electronics, all luxuries cost more than others, but are of much higher quality


----------



## strych9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Well I did my first sleeving today. Fan wires in paracord. Looks ok but my old hands hurt like heck. So, are there any good guides out there??


I followed 



 guide for heatshrinkless paracord and the sleeving came out real good.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> always mdpc


Pretty much lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *em ht*
> 
> Why are you so sure ? I used/buy some non MDPC ! In quality is equal with, density, strands, shining, melt point....and even cheaper !


I have 5 new types of sleeving sitting on my bench to check out, but out of the 7 types that are more common - none of them hold up to mdpc or paracord. The attention is all in the details such as ease of use, coverage, and colors.

But thats not to say there isnt other good sleeve out there, but as of right now there is no heatshrink better then MDPC on the market for precut.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *em ht*
> 
> Why are you so sure ? I used/buy some non MDPC ! In quality is equal with, density, strands, shining, melt point....and even cheaper !


usually when lutro0 makes show pieces or "model work" its usually MDPC unless otherwise stated.








I "stalked" him long enough to recognize his styling.

- occasionally he tests with paracording, but not often.

- If other sleeve is used, its usually only for reviewing the product.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strych9*
> 
> I followed
> 
> 
> 
> guide for heatshrinkless paracord and the sleeving came out real good.


Now that is pretty slick. Guess he made that tool, huh.
Thanks!!


----------



## strych9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Now that is pretty slick. Guess he made that tool, huh.
> Thanks!!


You're welcome. As for the tool, I used part of the antenna from an old radio, worked great.


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> the strands and density are not the same. It may seem that way but mdpc is the only one who uses 3strands. Lutro0 always uses mdpc or paracord, unless its a special type of wire. Trust us, it's mdpc.
> MDPC quality one of fine detail, its a luxury thing that you should do if you can afford. Like with computer cases, cars, electronics, all luxuries cost more than others, but are of much higher quality


must say that MDCP Isn't expensive in my opinion!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Pretty much lol
> I have 5 new types of sleeving sitting on my bench to check out, but out of the 7 types that are more common - none of them hold up to mdpc or paracord. The attention is all in the details such as ease of use, coverage, and colors.
> But thats not to say there isnt other good sleeve out there, but as of right now there is no heatshrink better then MDPC on the market for precut.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> usually when lutro0 makes show pieces or "model work" its usually MDPC unless otherwise stated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I "stalked" him long enough to recognize his styling.
> - occasionally he tests with paracording, but not often.
> - If other sleeve is used, its usually only for reviewing the product.


he, he, he, here is the MDPC - Church ! - no offence for users and for Nils (person that I respect for his work !)-







but how can you explain me 3 strands from this picture (non MDPC)







? :



regarding heatshrink 4:1; you right Lutro0 = he is invincible until now !


----------



## Furion92

Is that Dazmode's sleeve em ht?
btw: nice work on the heatshrink


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> Is that Dazmode's sleeve em ht?
> btw: nice work on the heatshrink


Thank you for your appreciation







; enjoy to be on this forum







No isn't . btw who is Dazmode's ? can you give on PM the link ?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *em ht*
> 
> must say that MDCP Isn't expensive in my opinion!
> he, he, he, here is the MDPC - Church ! - no offence for users and for Nils (person that I respect for his work !)-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but how can you explain me 3 strands from this picture (non MDPC)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? :
> regarding heatshrink 4:1; you right Lutro0 = he is invincible until now !


To explain the 3 strands - most pet plastic sleeving incorporates a "triple braid" production. Thats not hard to copy being it allows the best coverage and is typical in most production.

As for being a part of the MDPC Church, sure why not. However I have worked with almost every type of sleeving out there with 5 new types I have yet to review and none have held up so far. However I do try my best to be as neutral as I can with my reviews but the supplies I use for my jobs kinda speaks for itself.

Again don't get me wrong here, I'm not saying that there is not any other decent types sleeving out there.

Although while we are talking about sleeving are you going to let us know what sleeving and heatshrink you are talking about, because just saying its better does not help us lol


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *em ht*
> 
> must say that MDCP Isn't expensive in my opinion!
> he, he, he, here is the MDPC - Church ! - no offence for users and for Nils (person that I respect for his work !)-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but how can you explain me 3 strands from this picture (non MDPC)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? :
> 
> regarding heatshrink 4:1; you right Lutro0 = he is invincible until now !


not saying he isn't invincible.

Lutro0 Just does a fine job.

He won't stop until its mere perfection.

And if you ask him, he won't show you the work until it meets standards in his eyes. Hes very conscience about how it looks, and will tailor to your needs, such as if you want the extension in some crazy spiral, he could probably make it happen lol.

Not saying he doesn't mess up though, im sure lutro0 has his hiccups now and then. Practice makes perfect, and lutro0 has been doing sleeving for a very long time lol.

Not to say that Lutro0 is the best though, one of the best, but I can't title him officially the best, that would be unfair , there are a few other high quality sleevers out there too,

Lutro0 just happens to be the most conveniently available to us.


----------



## em ht

He = Nils , read carefully !


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *em ht*
> 
> He = Nils , read carefully !


lol lutro0 isn't nils,

A: we've seen lutro0 in person being,

and B: Lutro0 Doesn't have time to run MDPC and sleeve at the same time.

C: He has Chruch Service to attend to also.

and

D: Im not even sure lutro0 can draw, no offense seeing as we've never seen him draw.

and

E: I doubt it because while lutro0 was in the hospital, MDPC was still open. lol. and if his wife really was running it, then how could he draw the stuff on the packaging while he was in the hospital. people would notice if someone else was drawing nils art.

please just stop.









on an off note, some people know lutro0's real name anyhow.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> But thats not to say there isnt other good sleeve out there, but as of right now there is no heatshrink better then MDPC on the market for precut.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *em ht*
> 
> regarding heatshrink 4:1; you right Lutro0 = he is invincible until now !


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> not saying he isn't invincible.
> Lutro0 Just does a fine job.
> He won't stop until its mere perfection.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *em ht*
> 
> He = Nils, read carefully !


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> lol lutro0 isn't nils,
> A: we've seen lutro0 in person being,
> and B: Lutro0 Doesn't have time to run MDPC and sleeve at the same time.
> C: He has Chruch Service to attend to also.
> and
> D: Im not even sure lutro0 can draw, no offense seeing as we've never seen him draw.
> and
> E: I doubt it because while lutro0 was in the hospital, MDPC was still open. lol. and if his wife really was running it, then how could he draw the stuff on the packaging while he was in the hospital. people would notice if someone else was drawing nils art.
> please just stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on an off note, some people know lutro0's real name anyhow.


Nice ramble


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Nice ramble


pretty much.


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *em ht*
> 
> must say that MDCP Isn't expensive in my opinion!
> he, he, he, here is the MDPC - Church ! - no offence for users and for Nils (person that I respect for his work !)-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but how can you explain me 3 strands from this picture (non MDPC)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? :
> 
> regarding heatshrink 4:1; you right Lutro0 = he is invincible until now !


here is a wonderful shot depicting the 3stranded sleeve;


----------



## Furion92

@kyismaster: read it again buddy







really!

@mordocai rp:

May I quote you?







Quote:


> the strands and density are not the same. It may seem that way but mdpc is the only one who uses 3strands.


That's why he postet the picture. Because the sleeve he used has also 3 strands. Btw Darkside sleeving from DazMode e.g. is the same, too.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Sounds easy to look up, but my internet is so bad I cant watch videos. So I am looking more so for a guide like Ontics guide, but for no heatshrink.


The way that I do it can be applied to paracord fairly easily. (I saw someone doing it this way with paracord in a video somewhere anyway)

1. Cut the sleeve length to overhang the insulation of the wire on BOTH sides by about 1mm each.
2. Grab a lighter and position the flame in the middle of the pin and close to the edge of your sleeve.
3. Wave the lighter back and forth being careful not to burn the pin, or get too close to the sleeve.
4. Once the ends of the sleeve have melted (takes maybe 4-5 seconds for me), quickly pinch down hard on the melted end of the sleeve and twist. When you're twisting, you don't want to be pulling the sleeve around the wire, rather just smoothing and shaping the melted end to grab snug onto the pin. I've found that a good strong grip is needed to get the best result.

If you do it fast enough you won't burn yourself, but heck, no pain, no gain sometimes. Lick your fingers before pinching down on the sleeve if you're quick enough and it will help too. There are probably better ways to do heatshrinkless sleeving, but this way works for me and works well. Halfway through my 24pin currently. Expect to have it finished this weekend so can share photos then if anyone is interested.

edit: Photo of the 24pin currently.


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> lol lutro0 isn't nils,
> A: we've seen lutro0 in person being,
> and B: Lutro0 Doesn't have time to run MDPC and sleeve at the same time.
> C: He has Chruch Service to attend to also.
> and
> D: Im not even sure lutro0 can draw, no offense seeing as we've never seen him draw.
> and
> E: I doubt it because while lutro0 was in the hospital, MDPC was still open. lol. and if his wife really was running it, then how could he draw the stuff on the packaging while he was in the hospital. people would notice if someone else was drawing nils art.
> please just stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on an off note, some people know lutro0's real name anyhow.


You must only to read carefull !








I dont't mean Lutro0 is Nils !








I mean only that lutro0 is right about the 4:1 heatshrink ! So the Heatshrink (quality) from Nils (MDPC) are invincible !


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*
> 
> The way that I do it can be applied to paracord fairly easily. (I saw someone doing it this way with paracord in a video somewhere anyway)
> 1. Cut the sleeve length to overhang the insulation of the wire on BOTH sides by about 1mm each.
> 2. Grab a lighter and position the flame in the middle of the pin and close to the edge of your sleeve.
> 3. Wave the lighter back and forth being careful not to burn the pin, or get too close to the sleeve.
> 4. Once the ends of the sleeve have melted (takes maybe 4-5 seconds for me), quickly pinch down hard on the melted end of the sleeve and twist. When you're twisting, you don't want to be pulling the sleeve around the wire, rather just smoothing and shaping the melted end to grab snug onto the pin. I've found that a good strong grip is needed to get the best result.
> If you do it fast enough you won't burn yourself, but heck, no pain, no gain sometimes. Lick your fingers before pinching down on the sleeve if you're quick enough and it will help too. There are probably better ways to do heatshrinkless sleeving, but this way works for me and works well. Halfway through my 24pin currently. Expect to have it finished this weekend so can share photos then if anyone is interested.


Intersting process, I will try.(clever ideea)








Have you try the same process with heatshrink ?


----------



## kyismaster

I must be high.


----------



## skitzab1

seemd like someone was grumpy mist it all but


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*
> 
> -Snip-
> edit: Photo of the 24pin currently.


looks good man keep up the good work


----------



## Hukkel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *em ht*
> 
> You must only to read carefull !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont't mean Lutro0 is Nils !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mean only that lutro0 is right about the 4:1 heatshrink ! So the Heatshrink (quality) from Nils (MDPC) are invincible !


Is Nils a member on this forum?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hukkel*
> 
> Is Nils a member on this forum?


Not that I am aware of.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hukkel*
> 
> Is Nils a member on this forum?


You can search this very thread for clues







But he hasn't posted here for over a year now.


----------



## Demented

My very first 8pin!!!

I want to personally thank Lutro0 for all of his support and guidance!







Thanks Bud!


----------



## Hukkel

Looking good! Today I did my very first sata cable. All I can say is: do NOT buy the AC Ryan kits. What a terrible mess. I bought this very cheap and now I know why hahahaha.


----------



## Demented

If I'm not using the +2 on my PCIe cables, when making my own, I just follow the same pinout, sans those extra blacks, right?


----------



## Big Elf

Right, 3 x 12v and 3 x Ground.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Right, 3 x 12v and 3 x Ground.


Thanks man!


----------



## Big Elf

Just a suggestion for avoiding potentially expensive mistakes but a PSU Tester similar to *this* is a relatively cheap way to check the cabling has been done correctly. It doesn't work for 8 pin PCI-E cables but a cheap multimeter will allow you to check them for correct pin assignments. Note that if you get a negative reading (been there, done that) on the multimeter the pin assignments have been done the wrong way round.

A friend of mine bought a used PSU that had the 8 pin PCI-E cable missing so got hold of one from a similar PSU from the same manufacture with the same PSU connector. Unfortunately it had different pinouts on the PSU side and trashed his 480 GTX. A couple of minutes with a multimeter would have highlighted the problem.


----------



## Hukkel

Does it matter if you switch yellow or black wires with eachother? So a middle pin with a far left or right pin just on one side?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hukkel*
> 
> Does it matter if you switch yellow or black wires with eachother? So a middle pin with a far left or right pin just on one side?


Yes, it matters. You must make sure the pinout is followed. if a black wire is in one slot, it has to be in the same corresponding slot. That's why it is important to draw out your pinout, so you know exactly what wire goes where. If you're talking about a 6 pin connector with only 4 wires in it, they must stay in the pattern they were in originally. You can't just move them around to fit how you want them to be.


----------



## mandrix

Couple of questions, guys, after looking at Demented's build some things came up for me.

Crimper that will do both psu molex and fan pin molex, any suggestions?

Are there any fan pins (female) that are joined at the bottom instead of top, that leave those little "wings" after you break one off the stick? Or are there crimpers that will take care of that?
(when i use the ones I got from FTW PC they have those little "wings" left in the spring area that I've been cutting off with a tool else the pin won't fit in the female fan connector)


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hukkel*
> 
> Does it matter if you switch yellow or black wires with eachother? So a middle pin with a far left or right pin just on one side?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, it matters. You must make sure the pinout is followed. if a black wire is in one slot, it has to be in the same corresponding slot. That's why it is important to draw out your pinout, so you know exactly what wire goes where. If you're talking about a 6 pin connector with only 4 wires in it, they must stay in the pattern they were in originally. You can't just move them around to fit how you want them to be.
Click to expand...

On the PCI-E and CPU/EPS cable as long as you match a 12V wire with a 12V wire and a ground with a ground you can use any pinout.

In theory you can do the same with the 24 pin connector but as many PSUs have dual wires on the power and ground wires some of which are used to reduce impedance and others possibly serving a sensor function it's probably better to match them exactly. Also with the many wires on the 24 pin it's easier to double check when finished.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Couple of questions, guys, after looking at Demented's build some things came up for me.
> 
> Crimper that will do both psu molex and fan pin molex, any suggestions?
> 
> Are there any fan pins (female) that are joined at the bottom instead of top, that leave those little "wings" after you break one off the stick? Or are there crimpers that will take care of that?
> (when i use the ones I got from FTW PC they have those little "wings" left in the spring area that I've been cutting off with a tool else the pin won't fit in the female fan connector)


The MDPC-X tool will do both the ATX and fan pins at it has 2 separate crimping areas on the tool for each one.

I'm not sure what you mean about the wings that are left, do you have a picture? It's better to cut the pins off the strip with something like nail scissors so that you can trim all excess material off.

Edit: Are you crimping the pins with pliers as that can flatten out the wings, particularly the rear ones. The idea is to 'roll' each wing over each other.


----------



## Hukkel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> On the PCI-E and CPU/EPS cable as long as you match a 12V wire with a 12V wire and a ground with a ground you can use any pinout.
> In theory you can do the same with the 24 pin connector but as many PSUs have dual wires on the power and ground wires some of which are used to reduce impedance and others possibly serving a sensor function it's probably better to match them exactly. Also with the many wires on the 24 pin it's easier to double check when finished.


That is exactly what I meant. So the connector has 3 yellow and 3 black wires. If I just make sure that I out a yellow in one of the yellow slots and the black in one of the black slots it does not matter if it is the left, center or right slot correct? That way it would create much nicer result in terms of the clean look of the sleeving. Niw they have to turn before they can be allined.


----------



## Big Elf

That's right and yes, it does look neater.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> The MDPC-X tool will do both the ATX and fan pins at it has 2 separate crimping areas on the tool for each one.
> I'm not sure what you mean about the wings that are left, do you have a picture? It's better to cut the pins off the strip with something like nail scissors so that you can trim all excess material off.
> Edit: Are you crimping the pins with pliers as that can flatten out the wings, particularly the rear ones. The idea is to 'roll' each wing over each other.


Yeah, I've been trimming the excess off the pins with the cutter on my wire stripper and folding the tabs on the pins over with some small pliers then putting on a little solder. The female fan pins I got a while back are attached to each other up near the "spring" part of the pin and have excess metal there that's just in the way and I didn't know if there was some kind of crimper that would deal with that. Anyway I went ahead and ordered a crimper from FTW-PC and here and there got my sleeving supplies coming as well as a small side cutter and molex pins, wire, etc.
So, thanks, and I think I'm good to go. Got to figure out where I'm going to mount the 240 rad/pump/helix res and get some more fittings ordered.


----------



## KoSoVaR^

Here is something from me, Posted it before but the picture does not show, but now it should









Black and White sleeve from MDPC-X.



You can see more of my Sleevingwork here by liking me on my facebook page


----------



## Demented

Finished up one of two PCIe cables tonight. Going to do the other one tomorrow night.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoSoVaR^*
> 
> Here is something from me, Posted it before but the picture does not show, but now it should
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Black and White sleeve from MDPC-X.
> You can see more of my Sleevingwork here by liking me on my facebook page


Nice work Kosovar, good to see you posting here.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Finished up one of two PCIe cables tonight. Going to do the other one tomorrow night.


You just keep getting better and better buddy, keep up the good work! Im glad you didnt give up!


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Nice work Kosovar, good to see you posting here.
> You just keep getting better and better buddy, keep up the good work! Im glad you didnt give up!


Thanks, bud! But I'll have to redo one of the wires, and going to check for other 'slippers'. In testing the flexibility, one must not have been as tight as the others.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Finished up one of two PCIe cables tonight. Going to do the other one tomorrow night.


That blue is really eye catching. Good job.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> That blue is really eye catching. Good job.


Thanks! I do believe the color is a bit off on my camera. It's bold, but a little lighter than it is coming up.







Great quality sleeve and shrink.


----------



## Big Elf

It looks great.


----------



## Lutro0

Steeeeeveeee!


----------



## Big Elf

...can?


----------



## Hukkel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*


Awww you so romantic making a heart for us *sigh* <3


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hukkel*
> 
> Awww you so romantic making a heart for us *sigh* <3


LOL...

It's just how I roll...


----------



## insertacoolname

Ehhhm just looking for opinions and any pictures really. I have a black and red colour scheme, (mostly, I need to replace MOBO and get backplate for that nasty blue PCB on the windforce 670.) and I am going to be sleeving my stuff at some point in the future. As to when is a bit unclear since I am 16 and I am not exactly rolling in money.

I was wondering what people would think was best, I will be buying from MDPC.

any 2-3 colours of these (if possible please link pictures of similar colour schemes you have found)

Black

titanium grey

Black mkII

Red

color x

White

(orange?)


again, just looking for opinions to give me some ideas.


----------



## Big Elf

If you want to see some examples that you can rip off gain inspiration from have a look *here*


----------



## insertacoolname

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> If you want to see some examples that you can rip off gain inspiration from have a look *here*


Oh wow, I never knew of this magical place


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> If you want to see some examples that you can rip off gain inspiration from have a look *here*


HEY HEY thats secret! jk








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *insertacoolname*
> 
> Oh wow, I never knew of this magical place


----------



## axipher

This one looks especially good


----------



## insertacoolname

mmm, not sure if I am going to go for symmetrical or interchanging, I think this one looks good aswell.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> This one looks especially good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/IMG][/URL]


I bet you would lol








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *insertacoolname*
> 
> mmm, not sure if I am going to go for symmetrical or interchanging, I think this one looks good aswell.


That was one of my very first extensions. =)


----------



## em ht

I try some with the new sleeve, but I must practice more...





apologise for picture quality, made with phone...


----------



## Hukkel

What are you rambling about? It looks great!


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hukkel*
> 
> What are you rambling about? It looks great!


Thanks Hukkel ! you are to kind and forgiving.


----------



## strych9

Sleeved some 6-pin and a 6+2-pin modular cables for a client, satisfied with the results.


----------



## phillyd

very nice^^


----------



## strych9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> very nice^^


Thanks


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strych9*
> 
> Sleeved some 6-pin and a 6+2-pin modular cables for a client, satisfied with the results.


look good !







is that sleeve or paracord ?


----------



## strych9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *em ht*
> 
> look good !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is that sleeve or paracord ?


Thank you, it's paracord.


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *em ht*
> 
> look good !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is that sleeve or paracord ?


paracord


----------



## mandrix

Anyone have/use one of those "Anti Tangle" tools? I ordered one Wednesday, looked pretty neat. I have arthritis in my hands and every little bit helps.


----------



## strych9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Anyone have/use one of those "Anti Tangle" tools? I ordered one Wednesday, looked pretty neat. I have arthritis in my hands and every little bit helps.


I made one myself


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strych9*
> 
> I made one myself


Cool! I just don't have anyway I could think of to make one right now. I'm sure it's simple with the right piece. In the old days when I had access to a machine shop I would have just made one on the lathe.


----------



## ixsis

I bought one from Robertts25 and its great. Could have made my own but didn't have the parts handy and buying them would have cost nearly as much as the machined tool did.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Anyone have/use one of those "Anti Tangle" tools? I ordered one Wednesday, looked pretty neat. I have arthritis in my hands and every little bit helps.


If you're suffering from arthritis you may find that Robertts25 tool too small and light to handle easily. I made mine from antenna's and 1/8" brass rod (from a model shop) and I've made a couple for people here in the UK. If you do have a problem send me a pm and I'll make you a slightly longer heavier version. I did suggest to Robertts25 that he make them out of brass rather than aluminium and about 1" longer.



1st one is Robertts25 tool, 2nd one is my v1 and 3rd one is my preferred tool. One of my hands is slightly numb due to nerve damage in my elbow and I find the 3rd one easier to manage (and don't lose it in the sleeving like I do with the 1st one)


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ixsis*
> 
> I bought one from Robertts25 and its great. Could have made my own but didn't have the parts handy and buying them would have cost nearly as much as the machined tool did.


Cool.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> If you're suffering from arthritis you may find that Robertts25 tool too small and light to handle easily. I made mine from antenna's and 1/8" brass rod (from a model shop) and I've made a couple for people here in the UK. If you do have a problem send me a pm and I'll make you a slightly longer heavier version. I did suggest to Robertts25 that he make them out of brass rather than aluminium and about 1" longer.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1st one is Robertts25 tool, 2nd one is my v1 and 3rd one is my preferred tool. One of my hands is slightly numb due to nerve damage in my elbow and I find the 3rd one easier to manage (and don't lose it in the sleeving like I do with the 1st one)


Hey, that's neat. Thanks, and I'll give the other one a try and see how it works out, if not I'll definitely either try to fab one or contact you.









Actually all I've sleeved so far are fans, which are kind of a pita. Once I'm only trying to shove one wire at a time I think I'll be OK.
Haven't figured if/what I'm going to do with the SATA cables yet, need to see some examples to get some ideas.


----------



## carterboy

was looking at amazon for some paracord, and a nice set of LEDs for my case, it came out to about $28 bucks but then shipping was $20 bucks, i was wondering if there was a place where i could get some cheaper maybe without the shipping. i also found some heatstrink on there also


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carterboy*
> 
> was looking at amazon for some paracord, and a nice set of LEDs for my case, it came out to about $28 bucks but then shipping was $20 bucks, i was wondering if there was a place where i could get some cheaper maybe without the shipping. i also found some heatstrink on there also


Just get it on *FTW PC*. They also have heatshrink.

As for the LEDs, I bought these on eBay - *LINK*. I got them in cold white, warm white, blue, red, and green. *Amazon* also sells them for a few dollars more.


----------



## carterboy

yea i looked at FTW pc earlier, but wanted some insurance before making the decision. also wanted to find some LEDs maybe that i can connect to my PSU, so i dont have to hide another box.









also when it says .15 are they saying per foot?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carterboy*
> 
> also when it says .15 are they saying per foot?


Correct.
Quote:


> All prices shown by the foot. Adding "10" to cart will get you 10 ft of paracord. Quantities of 1,000ft or more will be on the spool. Paracord is measured and packed by hand so there may be variances of up to 10%. Please make sure to order a couple extra feet to account for that.


----------



## carterboy

okay thats what i thought, what i have in my cart at this time includes:
100 pre cut black heatstrink* x1
black ftw paracord* x50
green ftw paracord x150
ftw pc power supply tool kit* x1 <---- is this a must have? would it make my job easier?


----------



## audioholic

The FTW PSU kit is awesome. Its the real deal and I have it myself...so much better than staples and hand mades and stuff like that!









Are you using heatshrink on the paracord for a reason? Just curious


----------



## Big Elf

I have to say that the crimping tool (HT225D) in that kit isn't ideal for Molex ATX pins. While it will crimp the pins neatly they're not a very robust connection and can be pulled off relatively easily. The *MDPC-X* crimp tool is more expensive but due to the way that the tool forms the insulation crimp with a 'bite' into the insulation it's a very robust connection.

I have both tools (and others) but only use the HT225D for crimping pins for the 4 pin molex type connector, particularly double wires where it's very good.

Lutro0 has more detailed information in his *FAQ*


----------



## Dirtyworks

What do you guys think?
I'm taking a break cuz I snapped a pin off inside the 24-pin and I just don't feel like getting it out right now


----------



## carterboy

Are you using heatshrink on the paracord for a reason? Just curious[/quote]

do people not use heatstrink for paracord? sorry if this is a dumb question lol, never sleeved before! and as for my order is 150f green and 50 f black too much? im wanting to do all green except one black on each connector. i may order the kit unless someone has a cheaper solution


----------



## Dirtyworks

I'm using paracord without heatshrink









As for the amount you need... idk I bought 200ft of each lol
The difference in price is minimal (with how cheap it is) and the worst thing that can happen is running out when you're almost done.


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Anyone have/use one of those "Anti Tangle" tools? I ordered one Wednesday, looked pretty neat. I have arthritis in my hands and every little bit helps.


i made one myself out of the MOLEX pin removal tool

take out that little screw

then your left with just this


the pins fit perfectly in it nice and snug

fits nicely into the sleeve

hope this helps


----------



## Dirtyworks

I'm using part of an extendible radio antenna I found


----------



## strych9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*
> 
> I'm using part of an extendible radio antenna I found


Me too. Works like a charm.


----------



## carterboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*
> 
> I'm using paracord without heatshrink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the amount you need... idk I bought 200ft of each lol
> The difference in price is minimal (with how cheap it is) and the worst thing that can happen is running out when you're almost done.


yeah i noticed, and yours looks great! maybe mine will come out looking like that lol..

okay so i changed it to 200ft of green and 100ft of black.. no heatstrink and im going to buy the tool kit. may buy more so when i sleeve my psu for my HTPC ill have extra without having to order again and pay more shipping:thumb:


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hartk1213*
> 
> i made one myself out of the MOLEX pin removal tool
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> take out that little screw
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then your left with just this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the pins fit perfectly in it nice and snug
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fits nicely into the sleeve
> hope this helps


I thought about that already but it doesn't fit through paracord. At least not through any of the 3 different paracord batches I have. Nothing different about it I know of, 1 came from FTW PC and the other 2 came from different vendors on Ebay and they all appear to be 550 lb.

EDIT: Wait a minute. You're not talking about the larger part I guess? I'll round up some allen wrenches and try it later


----------



## Dirtyworks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carterboy*
> 
> yeah i noticed, and *yours looks great!* maybe mine will come out looking like that lol..
> okay so i changed it to 200ft of green and 100ft of black.. no heatstrink and im going to buy the tool kit. may buy more so when i sleeve my psu for my HTPC ill have extra without having to order again and pay more shipping:thumb:


Thank you









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I thought about that already but it doesn't fit through paracord. At least not through any of the 3 different paracord batches I have. Nothing different about it I know of, 1 came from FTW PC and the other 2 came from different vendors on Ebay and they all appear to be 550 lb.


Go find an old radio and take the antenna off that. One of the thingy's is bound to fit just perfectly.

Thats 550lb mil-spec paracord.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Go find an old radio and take the antenna off that. One of the thingy's is bound to fit just perfectly.
> 
> Thats 550lb mil-spec paracord.


I just trashed a non-working weather radio to get the antenna.








Bad time since that storm is coming in off the Gulf.


----------



## Dirtyworks

Pfft a radio will work with a coat hanger


----------



## mandrix

Sleeving is more important than a weather radio! (well, my wife doesn't think so, but she gave me the radio because it doesn't work)
So far I have my fans sleeved, and the front panel to motherboard wiring on my Switch. Tomorrow if all goes well I'll test fit the psu cables and start sleeving. A OCN member said he had a rough time with the Seasonic psu pins so I bought some 18awg wire and pins just in case I have to make up my own.
Only thing is the crimper I got from FTW PC doesn't do female fan pins very well, I ended up doing those with pliers on the few I screwed up.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Sleeving is more important than a weather radio! (well, my wife doesn't think so, but she gave me the radio because it doesn't work)
> So far I have my fans sleeved, and the front panel to motherboard wiring on my Switch. Tomorrow if all goes well I'll test fit the psu cables and start sleeving. A OCN member said he had a rough time with the Seasonic psu pins so I bought some 18awg wire and pins just in case I have to make up my own.
> Only thing is the crimper I got from FTW PC doesn't do female fan pins very well, I ended up doing those with pliers on the few I screwed up.


Mandrix you know we need pics of said sleeving.









Seasonic psus are harder to depin and require a bit more pulling to make the cable detach from the housing. Just take your time and pull hard when you know the tool is all the way in.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Mandrix you know we need pics of said sleeving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seasonic psus are harder to depin and require a bit more pulling to make the cable detach from the housing. Just take your time and pull hard when you know the tool is all the way in.


I haven't started on the psu yet, actually, all I've done is fans which to me are a real pita, and some front panel wires. I just about totally fubar'd the HDD & Power led plugs.







(anywhere to buy those?) Last night I did pull out the 24 pin from the Seasonic and strip off the single sleeve and look at it a bit.
BTW appreciate the tip on the Seasonic! I'll try not to get frustrated with it but if I do I have some wire and molex pins here and I'll just make my own, I guess. Actually I wish now I would have bought the connectors for the 24 pin, seems like it would be easier in a way.
Here's a pic of the on/off switch, leds sleeved on the switch.


----------



## mandrix

So you have this Seasonic cable fighting you every bit of the way and you pull the very first wire out of the pin, the pin is still in the socket, how do you get the pin out of the connector?








So far I've stabbed my thumb and pulled the very first wire out of the pin. I know I'll get this at some point but it sure is frustrating right now. So back to getting the pin out of the connector.......?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> So you have this Seasonic cable fighting you every bit of the way and you pull the very first wire out of the pin, the pin is still in the socket, how do you get the pin out of the connector?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far I've stabbed my thumb and pulled the very first wire out of the pin. I know I'll get this at some point but it sure is frustrating right now. So back to getting the pin out of the connector.......?


I had the same issues, which is why I invested the money to make my own wires. Much easier.









As far as getting the pin out, you will most likely destroy it, but try using the flat edges of a bobby pin to insert into the sides of the connector, and then try pushing the pin out with another tool.

Lutro0 can probably give better instructions. I needed one of my connectors, so I didn't care about the pin. I just dug, and dug and kept on trying to reduce its grip on the connector. I got them out, but they were totally unrecognizable.


----------



## Big Elf

Was it a PCIE wire by any chance? All the 8 wires that detached from the pin on my Seasonic were in the PCIE connectors.

I use a small screw which I put in the top of the connector and then use *water pump pliers* to gently push the screw in and pop out the pin. I did use to use a small jewellers screwdriver to push the retaining tangs into the pin but damaged the connector housings. If you can get something narrow to push the tangs into the pin it should do it.



Edit: *I should have mentioned that my method usually damages the pin so it's unlikely to be reusable*


----------



## Demented

Mine was my 8pin. 3 wires had survived intact. 5 lost their pins in the connectors.


----------



## Hukkel

haha well at least it's quality out of the box correct?


----------



## mandrix

This is the ATX connectors, the 10 wire connector and the 24 pin connector for the 1000w. I've pulled 3 wires out minus the pins so far. I've successfully pulled wires from other connectors but not this Seasonic. I'm afraid at this rate I will totally screw it up.


----------



## mandrix

BTW I do have pins, the mini fit molex work for these, right?


----------



## wlw wl

I had the exact same problem with my OCZ ModXStream Pro 600 PSU, a fact that Lutro0 still doesn't believe...
















I just made extensions instead, because even if I managed to get the pin out, the housing was getting destroyed in the process.


----------



## mandrix

Hmmm. Got some staples and a center punch and seems to work, although it's a slow process.
This Seasonic has one ATX 24 pin connecter on one end and a 16 & 8 pin on the other, unlike some other power supplies so I can't destroy the connectors or else.....


----------



## wlw wl

I've seen those connectors in the modding shop where I buy my parts, so you should find them in yours too


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> I've seen those connectors in the modding shop where I buy my parts, so you should find them in yours too


There's not a "modding shop" within 80 miles of where I live, unfortunately. Pretty much everything comes off the internet.


----------



## wlw wl

That's what I meant, too, I order all of it from the net by e-mail and have it sent, they also do some custom cables for me etc., but it's not near me


----------



## l3eans

First time sleeving with paracord. Not the best, but I'm satisfied







.

For some reason, taking out pins my psu with staples were extremely easy. I can take out a pin in less than 10 second with staples.



Gotta take some close-ups.


----------



## mandrix

It took me hours yesterday to do a total of 7 wires on my Seasonic psu. The pin extractor tool has been almost worthless, I've had to use long staples and it's very slow going. My hands are beat all to heck.








What do you guys do with those double wires? I have one that is double on one connector and two separate singles to another connector, really no way to tuck the sleeving in on the double wire I guess and I'm not using shrink.
Anyway it will take a long time but at least I'm finally getting somewhere.


----------



## Big Elf

Splice the dual wires. *Ontic's sleeving guide*, step 16 onwards


----------



## insertacoolname

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Splice the dual wires. *Ontic's sleeving guide*, step 16 onwards


AMAZING HOW MANY TIMES THAT GUIDE/STEP HAS COME UP IN THIS THREAD. (HAPPY CAPS LOCK DAY)


----------



## yanks8981

Has anyone sleeved an AX1200? Are there any 2 pin - 1 pin cables? I am looking for a high quality PSU 1000W+ with ideally 1-1 with every cable, as well as 100% modular. Do they exist?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Splice the dual wires. *Ontic's sleeving guide*, step 16 onwards


Neat solution. Thanks!


----------



## Furion92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yanks8981*
> 
> Has anyone sleeved an AX1200? Are there any 2 pin - 1 pin cables? I am looking for a high quality PSU 1000W+ with ideally 1-1 with every cable, as well as 100% modular. Do they exist?


Didn't sleeve one myself, but I've gathered some information about it. The pinout is as ideal as it gets with the power supplies nowadays. By that I mean that the pinout is clean, but flipped.

My sketch should explain it a little better:



Now double wires: there should be a single double wire in the 24pin for voltage sensing (which is useful and needed). The only units I know that don't have that sense wire are the CM Silent Pro Hybrids.

Here's the pinout for the 24pin: click me!.

I don't know anything about the 8pins and 6pins, but Ontic used the AX1200 in his sleeving guide as far as I know. You may want to read into that.


----------



## yanks8981

Theres a few in my X-1050, as well as in the PCIe cables. Sleeving is already such a big job, I really don't want to deal with those if I don't have to.


----------



## Hukkel

Uuuhm guys, it is correct a 24 pin connector only uses 23 right? 1 being empty?


----------



## Big Elf

Yes, pin 20 is no longer part of the ATX specification. If it's not connected inside the PSU you could add a cable to make the 24 pin connector neater. I just do a dummy splice on pin 20 to pin 8 i.e. I sleeve the wire, nip off the end of the ATX pin and heatshrink it to the outside of the sleeved wire on pin 8.


----------



## yanks8981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hukkel*
> 
> Uuuhm guys, it is correct a 24 pin connector only uses 23 right? 1 being empty?


Yes, one on the 24 pin side is empty, but on my PSU, theres 10+18 pins at the PSU side and 23 at the mobo side.


----------



## Hukkel

Great thanks. I was doubting myself there for a second ^^


----------



## carterboy

quick question: was about to order some paracord from ftw PC and found out that precut heatstrink x100 is out of stock, do they usually get stock in pretty fast? or should i just order it by the foot?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carterboy*
> 
> quick question: was about to order some paracord from ftw PC and found out that precut heatstrink x100 is out of stock, do they usually get stock in pretty fast? or should i just order it by the foot?


FTW's paracord is great quality, but you will hate their heatshrink as it gets gummy/sticky and discolors when it is heated moderately. I would look into an alternate provider for the heatshrink. I have linked a decent and very cheap source for by the foot in my FAQ.

Otherwise if you choose to purchase it just know that others have had issues when single sleeving with it. I never like to say bad things about a company and FTW does do its best to provide for the modder in many different areas, but it does lack in some.


----------



## carterboy

thanks bro, oh and by the way, i enjoy your videos, i'm sure they will come in really handy when i get to finally place my order.. ill look around for some heatstrink, whats your take on FTW's tool kit? i really don't wanna re-crimp wires unless i break one so that tool wouldn't be used, are there other kits that you may prefer? i'm looking to buy some tools anyways, because i've just started passing out business cards to my locals for computer repair/modding and get tired of running over to my dads/brothers house to borrow a tool. i'm not so worried about power tools at this minute because id rather borrow them until i can buy top quality, any modding/repair tools that are a must. sorry about this being off topic and all, hopefully yall will forgive me.

i may look into getting heatstrink from nils because id prefer precut, even though 4ft for .64 isnt bad, if im reading correctly. if you have any recommendations.

EDIT: nevermind i just found your tool list, your the man..


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hukkel*
> 
> Uuuhm guys, it is correct a 24 pin connector only uses 23 right? 1 being empty?


Yes, at least mine is and I assume the 24 pin (motherboard) side is always the same. The psu side varies.


----------



## mandrix

What I did today is order a new ATX cable from Seasonics' supplier as well as the 24, 10 & 18 pin connectors. I have almost destroyed my originals removing these [email protected]#$ pins, lol.
This way I will make up my own wiring+ have a known good cable, since I was in a hurry and never made a pinout diagram. Let that be a lesson for me. The ATX was only $10 and the 3 connectors $2 each.

Just for reference Antron Electronics makes Seasonics stuff, at least cables, here in the US. Ordering is very easy once you contact them, which if you destroy something like I did you will know where to get replacement or extra cables (any of them) for Seasonic psu's.


----------



## thisisfraa

Started sleeving my PSU, SATA cables & fans yesterday.
Here's a pic of the SATA cables, all done with MDPC-X:



The fans also look nice, but the PSU (CM-600 Silent ProM) is getting on my nerves. I only did the two PCI-E (6+2pin) cables till now and it took me like 3 hours or so. The pins were just so hard to get out, even with a tool. The best way to get em out was with a really thin & small flat screwdriver, bending the little wings back inside. Also had some pins which had two cables in em and they just wouldn't fit when the sleeving was done, even with all the tips from Lutro0 in his videos.

Gonna go back at it again later today, hopefully I won't get mad and break stuff


----------



## mandrix

Those 2 in 1 aren't worth trying to crimp on one pin. Follow that guide someone posted a page or two back and just splice the wire where it won't be seen.
I tried to flip this where it's looking straight on but it kept twisting on me.The shrink is actually even length.


----------



## mandrix

I'm thinking of using something other than paracord when I resleeve. I've never actually seen anything else in person, is the look and quality of, say, MDPC compared to paracord a lot better or just a matter of personal preference? I do like not using shrink for the 24 pin, can you go shrinkless with MDPC?
Also where is a good source for shrink other than MDPC? No offense to FTW PC and others but the stuff I have isn't all that impressive and gummy as all getout.
(I keep trying to hook up with MDPC but keep missing the store being actually open)


----------



## thisisfraa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I'm thinking of using something other than paracord when I resleeve. I've never actually seen anything else in person, is the look and quality of, say, MDPC compared to paracord a lot better or just a matter of personal preference? I do like not using shrink for the 24 pin, can you go shrinkless with MDPC?
> Also where is a good source for shrink other than MDPC? No offense to FTW PC and others but the stuff I have isn't all that impressive and gummy as all getout.
> (I keep trying to hook up with MDPC but keep missing the store being actually open)


I have a couple of different kinds of sleeving laying around here, from MDPC-X, FlexSleeve to Paracord. MDPC-X is by far the most user friendly, it expands a little more when you try to push the cable through and your connector won't easily catch on to it, which won't mess the sleeving up ofcourse. Also when you want to melt the edges a little bit, it works a lot better, the ends on other sleeving still get f*cked up a lot, I haven't had that problem with MDPC-X yet. It also just looks better imo.


----------



## thisisfraa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Those 2 in 1 aren't worth trying to crimp on one pin. Follow that guide someone posted a page or two back and just splice the wire where it won't be seen.
> I tried to flip this where it's looking straight on but it kept twisting on me.The shrink is actually even length.


I was thinking about doing that yeah. Now I end up wanting to push a pin with heatshrink that's too thick for the connector-hole. It also messes up the heatshrink when you want to push it in.
I'm gonna try that later on!


----------



## Hukkel

Tomorrow after dinner Belgian time it will be open. Just go to MDPC-X. I have a feeling you'll stay there. I just finished sleeving my PSU with it and it was very easy paterial to deal with. I also tried with AC Ryan stuff and this is the good stuff. MDPC-X is what you want. Just remember to order a good bunch while you are at it. Shipping starts at about 8 euros. So if you forget something it gets expensive


----------



## NV2

Sleeved my TX750 using paracord for the first time. This stuff is pretty neat. Was going to tuck the longer cables inside the PSU but space is really cramped so I have to pull everything as much as I can. Anyone know where I can get the pins so I can cut the cables at even length?


----------



## Big Elf

Assuming you're in the US then *FTW PC*


----------



## NV2

WOW I MUST BE BLIND. seriously. I have been around that site so many times and I didn't see those. Thanks much.


----------



## mandrix

Well I ordered some different sleeving from FTW PC mostly because of the color. If I absolutely don't like it I'll go to MDPC and get the "good" stuff. I sort of liked the paracord and the no-shrink look though.
Might go ahead and try to get some shrink from MDPC.


----------



## Big Elf

You know you can do heatshrinkless on the MDPC-X sleeving as well? Lutro0 has a very good technique for it (not yet documented) although I do it a bit differently.


----------



## Hukkel

Then do share your different technique


----------



## Big Elf

I won't describe mine as it's not as good as Lutro0s but one I'm comfortable with. You're better learning the best practice way of doing it.


----------



## Hukkel

How do I remove a pin from a sata power connector? Do they work like fan connectors? Push a pin and shove it out?

I have sata power connectors that have pins in them with a wire going in and coming out of each pin to the next one.

Want to ask before I break something.


----------



## Big Elf

It it the *'punch down*' type or the *90º Connector*?

The punch down type works by cutting the insulation when you push the wire in and can be removed by lifting the wire being careful not to pull the pin out.
Edit: You need to prise the little cap off the top first.

The wire on the 90º connector is removed by very gently lifting the little latch which holds each pin in. I must be clumsy as I quite often break these latches.


----------



## thisisfraa

The best way is to lift the little plastic tab you see and pull the cable out, they're probably the most easy pins to get out.
I sleeved my SATA power cables with the SATA sleeving I bought, sleeving them individually is also possible but I was a bit too lazy for that.

I just finished my 4+4 pin, now on to the 24-pin. My SATA's, SATA power cables, fans, a Molex and the two PCI-E cables are already done.


----------



## insertacoolname

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thisisfraa*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The best way is to lift the little plastic tab you see and pull the cable out, they're probably the most easy pins to get out.
> I sleeved my SATA power cables with the SATA sleeving I bought, sleeving them individually is also possible but I was a bit too lazy for that.
> I just finished my 4+4 pin, now on to the 24-pin. My SATA's, SATA power cables, fans, a Molex and the two PCI-E cables are already done.


At first I thought you had sleeved your 24 pin rainbowed, then I read what you wrote







.

Anyway, with the sata cables with the plastic tab, they are just out and in right? No crimping needed?

edit: just realized I am going to need to crimp anyway since I am moving the connectors along the wires.


----------



## thisisfraa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *insertacoolname*
> 
> At first I thought you had sleeved your 24 pin rainbowed, then I read what you wrote
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Anyway, with the sata cables with the plastic tab, they are just out and in right? No crimping needed?
> edit: just realized I am going to need to crimp anyway since I am moving the connectors along the wires.


Nah when you take em out you'll see that two wires go into one pin (and on the end on of the pin are 3 little pins).
That's why I didn't want to sleeve them individually, don't have a crimping tool.
So I just taped them off and used SATA sleeving to do the 4 wires together, less hassle









EDIT:

Just finished off the whole PSU, now testing if everything still works haha


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> You know you can do heatshrinkless on the MDPC-X sleeving as well? Lutro0 has a very good technique for it (not yet documented) although I do it a bit differently.


Thanks I'll check it out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> It it the *'punch down*' type or the *90º Connector*?
> The punch down type works by cutting the insulation when you push the wire in and can be removed by lifting the wire being careful not to pull the pin out.
> Edit: You need to prise the little cap off the top first.
> The wire on the 90º connector is removed by very gently lifting the little latch which holds each pin in. I must be clumsy as I quite often break these latches.


Was wondering about that, thanks.


----------



## mandrix

For you guys sleeving your front panel wiring, have you run into problems when you take apart the double wire connectors like the reset, hdd led, etc? Removing the pins resulted in "ripping" the plastic connector on mine to the point where I ordered some extensions to replace them, although they were still usuable. I thought they would be simple like fan connectors but at least on the Switch were troublesome. Easy enough to get out, I guess, but like I said the plastic connector ripped along the wire passage. Hmm maybe use something thinner and longer than the 4-prong fan connector tool to slide the pins out?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> For you guys sleeving your front panel wiring, have you run into problems when you take apart the double wire connectors like the reset, hdd led, etc? Removing the pins resulted in "ripping" the plastic connector on mine to the point where I ordered some extensions to replace them, although they were still usuable. I thought they would be simple like fan connectors but at least on the Switch were troublesome. Easy enough to get out, I guess, but like I said the plastic connector ripped along the wire passage. Hmm maybe use something thinner and longer than the 4-prong fan connector tool to slide the pins out?


I haven't done mine, but I plan to. However, I wasn't going to sleeve those individual wires. I was just going to sleeve then in one piece of sleeve. The sleeve should fit right over the connector even.


----------



## Big Elf

Do you mean the connectors that plug into the mobo for the power, reset etc.



If so you need to lift the little latch on the connector and slide the wire out.

Edit: it's also the same method of removal for the connectors for internal USB/Firewire/Audio


----------



## mandrix

Thanks guys. I pushed the pins with a tool. Didn't know that plastic lifted up. Doh! So when the extensions get here I'll graft them in and sleeve them.


----------



## Big Elf

If you need some more of the housings the manufacturer is *Harwin* and part numbers are:

M20-1060*1*00 single pin
M20-1060*2*00 dual pin
M20-1060*3*00 triple pin etc

I can't find them at the moment in the UK in small quantities. MDPC-X used to sell them but not any more.


----------



## wlw wl

Have you tried searching for goldpin connector or housing? If you can't find them, I can send you some.


----------



## Big Elf

I can't find them without the part number. Thanks for the offer for the housings though. I've only made up a couple of motherboard sets for other people and a couple for myself and have enough left for another 7 so not desperate.


----------



## Big Elf

I forgot to add that when you put the heatshrink on the housings/sleeve be careful with how much heat you apply as the housings melt very easily. A lot of quick passes with the heat source does it eventually.


----------



## mandrix

I ordered some extensions over the weekend and I'll just splice them in before resleeving. I couldn't find the housings at the time.


----------



## roudabout6

Hey guys I was looking to buy some custom extensions for main cables like 8 pin, 24 pin, and pcie. If you know of anyone just send me a message.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roudabout6*
> 
> Hey guys I was looking to buy some custom extensions for main cables like 8 pin, 24 pin, and pcie. If you know of anyone just send me a message.


http://www.overclock.net/overclock-net-artisans/1159606-lutro0-customs-fully-custom-extensions-sale.html


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> If you need some more of the housings the manufacturer is *Harwin* and part numbers are:
> M20-1060*1*00 single pin
> M20-1060*2*00 dual pin
> M20-1060*3*00 triple pin etc
> I can't find them at the moment in the UK in small quantities. MDPC-X used to sell them but not any more.


Thanks for this link, I went ahead and ordered some 2 pin and 5 pin for backup.

Here in the US Newark and Mouser is who I ultimately ended up ordering from, but the links were on that page Big Elf listed. The pieces themselves are cheap enough, it's the shipping that kills you. Just for grins I picked up 10 of each of the 2 and 5 pin, forgot all about the 10 pin USB.


----------



## pbaines

Currently in progress!
These cables have been my favourite to sleeve so far, the connections are all 1-1 which makes life a lot easier,
Working through these nice and slow, making sure perfection is met.
Enjoy









Phil

24- Pin is
GGG BBBBBB GGG
GGG BBBBBB GGG














































Then, here are the sleeved LED's (Changed from Blue to Green(5mm))


----------



## Jayjr1105

Just wanted to get the community's opinion on these eBay sleeve kits for my rig.

24 Pin
6 Pin PCIe

No way I could dedicate enough time toward learning and doing the job myself at this stage of my life (3 young kids and house renovations) I'm typically a do-it-yourself-er but I am way too busy and these seem legit and for a good price. I like the black/powder blue theme and I only need the 24 pin and two 6 pin PCIe cables. My 8 pin CPU is top-left on the motherboard and is barely noticable plus I have sharpie'd it already.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> Just wanted to get the community's opinion on these eBay sleeve kits for my rig.
> 24 Pin
> 6 Pin PCIe
> No way I could dedicate enough time toward learning and doing the job myself at this stage of my life (3 young kids and house renovations) I'm typically a do-it-yourself-er but I am way too busy and these seem legit and for a good price. I like the black/powder blue theme and I only need the 24 pin and two 6 pin PCIe cables. My 8 pin CPU is top-left on the motherboard and is barely noticable plus I have sharpie'd it already.


Its kinda a gamble out there when buying extensions from big and small makers. But if you follow a couple rules most of the time you will be ok.

1. Nothing less then 18awg wire.
2. If it looks like crap (misaligned heatshrink, uneven wires and such)...it probably is.
3. If its crazy cheap chances are it was mass produced without attention to detail or rushed to be finished with the same results.
4. Check if the maker has a respectable modding background, if they do chances are it will be top quality.
5. Ask to see how the wires are crimped and what tools they use - if they use the Han Long [HT-225D] Crimper (blue handled from frozencpu and other resellers) Do Not Buy also make sure their crimp has a bite on the insulation as this will ensure a lasting purchase. Another thing to look for in heatshrinkles is if they melt the sleeve to the wire its poor quality.

If you follow those rules you will be ok most of the time, If the maker cares about their sleeving they will be happy to provide you all the details you need and should be more then willing to help you with you color scheme and so on.


----------



## Jayjr1105

Thanks for the input, I will message the seller and ask, but say it is indeed mass produced junk... Where else could I just purchase the 24 pin and 6 pin PCIe sleeved extensions?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayjr1105*
> 
> Thanks for the input, I will message the seller and ask, but say it is indeed mass produced junk... Where else could I just purchase the 24 pin and 6 pin PCIe sleeved extensions?


Well there is alot of sellers out there but only a few I can vouch for after talking with their owners.

Myself, Martin ( http://psychosleeve.com/ ), Shak Mods ( http://shakmods.com/ )


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Well there is alot of sellers out there but only a few I can vouch for after talking with their owners.
> Myself, Martin ( http://psychosleeve.com/ ), Shak Mods ( http://shakmods.com/ )


psychosleeving prices are jaw dropping.

I vote for lutro0


----------



## googleberry

Hey all, I'm looking to sleeve my PSU (this will be my first time). I've read the first hundred pages or so, and nobody mentioned sleeving with Parachute Cord... I'm wondering if anyone here has any experience with this or what your thoughts would be about trying this. Essentially para-cord and the nylon/other sleeves look pretty similar, just the para-cord will be more cloth-like which I kinda like. Plus para-cord is many times cheaper...


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *googleberry*
> 
> Hey all, I'm looking to sleeve my PSU (this will be my first time). I've read the first hundred pages or so, and nobody mentioned sleeving with Parachute Cord... I'm wondering if anyone here has any experience with this or what your thoughts would be about trying this. Essentially para-cord and the nylon/other sleeves look pretty similar, just the para-cord will be more cloth-like which I kinda like. Plus para-cord is many times cheaper...


http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/

http://www.overclock.net/t/1262904/video-sleeving-guide-series/

Check those links out, should answer most of your questions. =)


----------



## googleberry

Thank you sir. I'm new to the forums and admittedly haven't been everywhere. Love this thread though. Lots of inspiration for the upcoming build.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *googleberry*
> 
> Thank you sir. I'm new to the forums and admittedly haven't been everywhere. Love this thread though. Lots of inspiration for the upcoming build.


Not a problem at all, let us know if you have any questions!


----------



## googleberry

Hmm... From what I've read, para-cord is tougher to work with than the "normal" sleeving. However, I tend to think myself somewhat competent, so I might just give that a try. If it turns out great I'll definitely post some pics for those who may want to save a few bucks. If it turns out to be rubbish, I'll be out $30 or so and hopefully will have learned a few things in the process.

A win-win situation


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *googleberry*
> 
> Hmm... From what I've read, para-cord is tougher to work with than the "normal" sleeving. However, I tend to think myself somewhat competent, so I might just give that a try. If it turns out great I'll definitely post some pics for those who may want to save a few bucks. If it turns out to be rubbish, I'll be out $30 or so and hopefully will have learned a few things in the process.
> 
> A win-win situation


I prefer paracord over traditional sleeving material. It may be a bit tougher to work with since it doesn't expand that much, but I think it looks better, it's cheap, and you don't have to use heatshrink tubing.


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

MDPC-orange cables on my Antec 1200




..hope you like


----------



## Ramsey77

Wow, that is bright. What kind of lighting are you using?


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811994002


----------



## Sevada88

Got some work done on my cables. I thought I show it off since I ran out of sleeving and have to get new ones. What do you think, how much do I need for the 24 pin?


----------



## Big Elf

Seasonic 24 pin cables are around 600mm in length and there's probably 27 wires in it so around 52' plus 10% for wastage, say 60'.

You can double check by measuring the cable length.


----------



## jonnL

Can someone give me some tips on how to sleeve SATA power cables with the "passthrough" type connectors?

I'm using paracord to sleeve the wires but its too thick for the "metal teeth" in the connectors to cut through, and the heatshrink seems to just slide.

Any tips would help


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonnL*
> 
> Can someone give me some tips on how to sleeve SATA power cables with the "passthrough" type connectors?
> I'm using paracord to sleeve the wires but its too thick for the "metal teeth" in the connectors to cut through, and the heatshrink seems to just slide.
> Any tips would help


I haven't done mine yet, but the way I was going to go with it is to use superglue to hold small sections of sleeve where I want in, between the connections. Then, use shrink basically just for the clean look.

Mind you, I'm working with MDPC, so not sure if the superglue would bleed through para cord. I think that's the way most do it, when working with inline connectors.


----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I haven't done mine yet, but the way I was going to go with it is to use superglue to hold small sections of sleeve where I want in, between the connections. Then, use shrink basically just for the clean look.
> Mind you, I'm working with MDPC, so not sure if the superglue would bleed through para cord. I think that's the way most do it, when working with inline connectors.


That's how I did it, but since my measurements were off, I ended up ripping it all out to start over again.

My advice would be to get the measurements right before you get started. Make sure all the pieces (cuts in the cable insulation and the sleeves) are exactly the same across all 5 cables, otherwise you'll end up with uneven pieces and that will basically ruin it.


----------



## Demented

It might be too hot for me to sleeve a work tonight...this booth already isn't as cool as I'd like it, and the hot air from the heat gun isn't helping.

EDIT: Well, it wasn't just the heat that got too much. My fingers were out of practice for a few weeks, so that was a factor as well.

I did get one half of my second PCIe cables done though:


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> It might be too hot for me to sleeve a work tonight...this booth already isn't as cool as I'd like it, and the hot air from the heat gun isn't helping.
> EDIT: Well, it wasn't just the heat that got too much. My fingers were out of practice for a few weeks, so that was a factor as well.
> I did get one half of my second PCIe cables done though:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So you get paid to sleeve your cables? That's a pretty cool job. lol.









BTW, you got the Seasonic 1000w, right? Have you got a pinout diagram you could share? Would like to check my work. I've got a spare cable but it would be easier to work from a diagram, save me a headache.
Thanks!


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> So you get paid to sleeve your cables? That's a pretty cool job. lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, you got the Seasonic 1000w, right? Have you got a pinout diagram you could share? Would like to check my work. I've got a spare cable but it would be easier to work from a diagram, save me a headache.
> Thanks!


I haven't done my 24pin yet. I'm saving that monstrosity for last!


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I haven't done my 24pin yet. I'm saving that monstrosity for last!


Yeah, I will be saving that for last on my PSU as well.

Unfortunately, I'm still waiting for my MDPC order to arrive. Been 10 days and nada. Oh well, hopefully I'll be sleeving by next weekend.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Yeah, I will be saving that for last on my PSU as well.
> Unfortunately, I'm still waiting for my MDPC order to arrive. Been 10 days and nada. Oh well, hopefully I'll be sleeving by next weekend.


Give it two weeks at least.









It will most likely come this week.


----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Yeah, I will be saving that for last on my PSU as well.
> Unfortunately, I'm still waiting for my MDPC order to arrive. Been 10 days and nada. Oh well, hopefully I'll be sleeving by next weekend.


I am not even looking forward to the 24 pin...good bye fingers!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I haven't done my 24pin yet. I'm saving that monstrosity for last!


I literally destroyed the connectors getting the pins out. I don't know what Seasonic does that makes it so hard, I don't have that much of a problem with other cables. The sleeving with paracord wasn't bad, but the connectors looked so bad I decided to build a new cable(s) but this time I'm going to skip paracord since I already did that once. Luckily I found 2 sources for the Seasonic connectors so I could start over with new ones. Meanwhile in between sleeving breaks I've been working on the Switch to give my fingers a rest.
I think I found a diagram for the Seasonic but I'm not sure if it's up to date, it's an old post. Guess I'll have to break down and make one.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I literally destroyed the connectors getting the pins out. I don't know what Seasonic does that makes it so hard, I don't have that much of a problem with other cables. The sleeving with paracord wasn't bad, but the connectors looked so bad I decided to build a new cable(s) but this time I'm going to skip paracord since I already did that once. Luckily I found 2 sources for the Seasonic connectors so I could start over with new ones. Meanwhile in between sleeving breaks I've been working on the Switch to give my fingers a rest.
> I think I found a diagram for the Seasonic but I'm not sure if it's up to date, it's an old post. Guess I'll have to break down and make one.


I'm hoping I have better luck. I already bought the 24pin connectors, so I'll say a little prayer when I remove the wires from mine.









Finished up my second PCIe cable tonight:









Now I just need to do my SATA and MOLEX cables, and the dreaded 24pin!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I'm hoping I have better luck. I already bought the 24pin connectors, so I'll say a little prayer when I remove the wires from mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished up my second PCIe cable tonight:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just need to do my SATA and MOLEX cables, and the dreaded 24pin!


Looking good, Demented! I understand you want to save yourself some time and reuse the wiring in the 24 pin, and by all means give it a shot. I have the modsmart pin removal set and it did not work but for only a few pins. For future use I have an original Molex extractor on the way from Newark and hoping it works better than the modsmart one.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Looking good, Demented! I understand you want to save yourself some time and reuse the wiring in the 24 pin, and by all means give it a shot. I have the modsmart pin removal set and it did not work but for only a few pins. For future use I have an original Molex extractor on the way from Newark and hoping it works better than the modsmart one.


Thanks!

Yeah, I have the correct and quality tools, yet I still had issues with removing wires from the Seasonic cables.


----------



## pbaines




----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbaines*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice!


----------



## Big Elf

Very nice.

Demented - If you recrimp with the proper molex pins it makes it easier fitting them back in the Seasonic housings after sleeving.


----------



## pbaines

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> Has anyone been to the address for MDPC (Neherstr. 1, 81675 München, Deutschland) or met Nils in person? Just curious


I feel like going for a world trip in the coming years. Might stalk MDPC and try meet him in person


----------



## Big Elf

N/A


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> I am not even looking forward to the 24 pin...good bye fingers!


Well, hopefully it won't be that bad.

I had a nice package sitting in my mailbox when I got home from work. A big brown bag from .... Germany.

I wonder what could be in it.









Well, I guess I know what I'll be doing this week sometime and on the weekend.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Well, hopefully it won't be that bad.
> I had a nice package sitting in my mailbox when I got home from work. A big brown bag from .... Germany.
> I wonder what could be in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I guess I know what I'll be doing this week sometime and on the weekend.


Get to work!


----------



## skitzab1

well hello to all im back online.

man so much happens when u are gone for a little









but little bit of work on little red wagon

started sleaving


----------



## Hamy144

Anyone used on of these?
Im going to sleeve my new power supply and dont want to use paper clips like i did last time


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Anyone used on of these?
> Im going to sleeve my new power supply and dont want to use paper clips like i did last time


Never used one of those. I bought a genuine Molex tool straight from the get go. I think if it's worth doing, it's worth doing with the right tool. After reading people's issues with other tools, I thought it was a wise investment.


----------



## Big Elf

It's very much like the one I got free with a Molex pin kit a couple of years ago (the kit cost less than a fiver). If the pins aren't too tight in the connector it will get them out but needs a bit of fiddling to get the prongs down the side of the pin. If it's the same one I have (Lamptron A C Ryan) it's not spring steel so the prongs will bend easily. If the pins are tight in the connector you'll probably swear a lot and the wire might come out of the pin more often than not. I did completely dismantle the connectors on an OCZ PSU with it though.

A lower cost tool that does work with a bit of fine tuning is the *Pulse Modding* version. The one I have was poorly riveted together so I redid the rivets although it wasn't necessary for it to function. However the prongs were slightly too thick for fitting down the side of pins on some connectors so I filed 0.2mm from each one and redid the bevel on the ends of the prongs and it works as well as the Molex extraction tool now. It is made of decent spring steel.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> It's very much like the one I got free with a Molex pin kit a couple of years ago (the kit cost less than a fiver). If the pins aren't too tight in the connector it will get them out but needs a bit of fiddling to get the prongs down the side of the pin. If it's the same one I have (Lamptron A C Ryan) it's not spring steel so the prongs will bend easily. If the pins are tight in the connector you'll probably swear a lot and the wire might come out of the pin more often than not. I did completely dismantle the connectors on an OCZ PSU with it though.
> A lower cost tool that does work with a bit of fine tuning is the *Pulse Modding* version. The one I have was poorly riveted together so I redid the rivets although it wasn't necessary for it to function. However the prongs were slightly too thick for fitting down the side of pins on some connectors so I filed 0.2mm from each one and redid the bevel on the ends of the prongs and it works as well as the Molex extraction tool now. It is made of decent spring steel.


I was looking at that tool but not one place has it in stock same with the phobya tool kit I only linked that one due to it being the inky one I could find in stock.
Also funds as short as always so even if it breaks after one PSU I'd be happy. Always go for cheap and chearful in my opinion you can't be disappointed by it


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> I was looking at that tool but not one place has it in stock same with the phobya tool kit I only linked that one due to it being the inky one I could find in stock.
> Also funds as short as always so even if it breaks after one PSU I'd be happy. Always go for cheap and chearful in my opinion you can't be disappointed by it


Send me a pm, you can have my AC Ryan Tool.

Edit: I've just used it again for the first time in about 2 years, I think I'd prefer to use staples, I'd forgotten how bad it is.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Get to work!


I am, slowly. I started with something small that will be totally hidden just to get the feel of things ... the little board that comes in the ABS Canyon case that is a 3 speed switch for 4 fans. So far so good. I think I'll sleeve the 140mm fans next after that.

Slow and steady. Getting the hang of the MDPC stuff, as you said, it is much easier to work with. I absolutely LOVE the MDPC heat shrink. It is so much better than BitsPower or the stuff I pilfered from work.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Anyone used on of these?
> Im going to sleeve my new power supply and dont want to use paper clips like i did last time


Buy 2 or 3 so you won't be as mad after it breaks in the middle of a sleeving session. Unless you are very careful with it, the brittle metal will fatigue very quickly and break. The real molex tool is worth the money.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> *The real* molex tool is worth the money.


Can I get a link for this please? I have searched and can't find the Molex brand tool anywhere.


----------



## Big Elf

Part number is 11-03-0044 and *Mouser* has it in stock but you might be able to find it cheaper elsewhere.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Can I get a link for this please? I have searched and can't find the Molex brand tool anywhere.


Sure thing









http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70111012&gclid=CMKx8PmRk7ECFQgJRQodGXaneQ


----------



## Ramsey77

Has anyone ever tried these? Pretty decent price, I might get and report back. Just wondering if anyone has tried them.


----------



## Big Elf

I've not seen that until now. I've just looked through the catalog for all the different die sets available for it and can't see anything that mentions the Molex Mini Fit Junior pins. I'm just asking the people at the place you linked to.

Edit: They've just replied with:

'Since we get this item directly from Eclipse you will need to contact them for further information. There Toll Free phone number is: 1-800-226-1257'


----------



## Lutro0

CMON! Now I have to buy that one tew.... sheeesh









-edit- man kinda pricey... let me know what you find out BE


----------



## Big Elf

I've just emailed Eclipse asking for confirmation that it's designed to crimp the Molex 39-00-0038 and 39-00-0040 pins and alternatives if not.

The frame looks very similar to the SN-28 although the die set looks different.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I've not seen that until now. I've just looked through the catalog for all the different die sets available for it and can't see anything that mentions the *Molex Mini Fit Junior pins.* I'm just asking the people at the place you linked to.
> Edit: They've just replied with:
> 'Since we get this item directly from Eclipse you will need to contact them for further information. There Toll Free phone number is: 1-800-226-1257'


I am assuming, that if those pins are an "open barrel" type and between 22-12 AWG, they _should_ work. Just for the sake of learning, what do those pins you mentioned look like?

EDIT: Found THIS ad for them, it has the pins pictured. Are those the ones you were referring to?


----------



## Big Elf

The ATX pins are this type



It's difficult to tell from the drawing in the image you linked to but I think that they're the AMP molex type pins for the 4 pin auxiliary/hard disk connector


----------



## wlw wl

http://www.skygeek.com/eclipse-tool-300-039-lunar-series-die-set.html

This has the same markings as my tool on the smallest part:
0,5 to 1 mm2

You can crimp the big Molex power pins with that, forget about the ATX pins.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> CMON! Now I have to buy that one tew.... sheeesh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -edit- man kinda pricey... let me know what you find out BE


You and Big Elf must have 5 of every sleeving tool by now


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> You can crimp the big Molex power pins with that, forget about the ATX pins.


So I wonder if THIS die set is the one we need for the ATX pins?


----------



## wlw wl

Yup, that look like The Thing.


----------



## Big Elf

I would have said possibly but, judging by the image, the die set doesn't have the 'v' bite of the MDPC-X Tool, it's more like the bite on the HT-225D.

I'll let you know what Eclipse say if they get back to me.


----------



## wlw wl

I meant the size is right, perhaps the center piece in each cut-out isn't very pronounced and it wouldn't make a pretty bite crimp but I think that's just lousy die casting.


----------



## Penman166

Anyone have any suggestions for a noob doing it with paracord ^___^ Im on a mission to show people the antec 300 CAN be clean with some case modding!


----------



## Ramsey77

YouTube has some excellent tutorials covering paracord sleeving. That is where I learned how to do it. Are you going to use heatshrink or use the heatshrink-less method?


----------



## Penman166

I havent decided yet is either or better?
Also Im using this:
http://www.icecord.com/Paracord.php
Since im going with the "HIS 6870" thats blue and I have a MSI blue color'd mobo, should I go with blue camo? Or black? or the electric blue?
or half black half electric blue? *Scroll down to see the colors*
Any recommendations?


----------



## wlw wl

I vote for shrink-less paracord, looks 10x better and is easy to do with some practice. It just needs some love, in Lutro0's words


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Has anyone ever tried these? Pretty decent price, I might get and report back. Just wondering if anyone has tried them.


I've had a reply from Eclipse who state '*You would need the 300-009 or 300-164*' for the Molex 39-00-0038 and 39-00-0040 pins
*
300-009*

*300-164*

I've only had a quick look so there will be better images/prices out there.


----------



## wlw wl

300-009 doesn't look good.


----------



## Big Elf

I've queried that with them. They might have made an error and meant 300-039.

Edit: They got back to me quickly with:

'Well, the 300-039 die is the die that goes in the 300-005 tool you originally asked about. I was told to recommend the 300-164 or the 300-009. The 300-009 is from our solar series of crimpers and is for D-sub contacts, RS232 - pins and sockets AWG 30-18, Open barrel contacts (Molex/AMP style).'


----------



## strych9

Is there any way to sleeve molex and sata power cables shrink-less with paracord?


----------



## wlw wl

BE - they just seem to wide to me so the bite wouldn't be complete and also the shrinkless sleeve wouldn't fit over it, but I guess the only way to know for sure is to get it and try...


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strych9*
> 
> Is there any way to sleeve molex and sata power cables shrink-less with paracord?


There is, but no sleeving guides for them as yet (nag Lutro0). One suggestion for the SATA power cables is to use superglue to hold it in place. I haven't mastered doing them myself yet so can't give you any practical tips.

For Molex connectors I simply cut a small notch out of the paracord where the dual wires go into the molex pin so it will push up that tiny fraction further onto the pin then melt it onto it. It doesn't need a lot of heat to do it i.e. don't make lava out of the paracord and it takes a few applications of heat to get it fixed securely. Note: The way I do it may not be Lutro0s way of doing it.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> BE - they just seem to wide to me so the bite wouldn't be complete and also the shrinkless sleeve wouldn't fit over it, but I guess the only way to know for sure is to get it and try...


We'll probably have to wait until someone buys the tool to check it out. I'll see if I can get a sample but don't hold your breath as they're not available in the UK.

I've just been sent some images from the Company President but they're not detailed enough to see the dies in detail

300-009


300-164


----------



## strych9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> There is, but no sleeving guides for them as yet (nag Lutro0). One suggestion for the SATA power cables is to use superglue to hold it in place. I haven't mastered doing them myself yet so can't give you any practical tips.
> For Molex connectors I simply cut a small notch out of the paracord where the dual wires go into the molex pin so it will push up that tiny fraction further onto the pin then melt it onto it. It doesn't need a lot of heat to do it i.e. don't make lava out of the paracord and it takes a few applications of heat to get it fixed securely. Note: The way I do it may not be Lutro0s way of doing it.


Thanks!


----------



## wlw wl

300-009 looks like what we want,
for my eyes the 300-164 isn't a "bite crimp", but the other one, however it could be named, where the tabs just hug the wire.


----------



## Lutro0

I threw a few emails out there to see if I could get them, if not I will just purchase them.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I threw a few emails out there to see if I could get them, if not I will just purchase them.


Hopefully they hook you up with a set.


----------



## longroadtrip

What do you guys think of this combination?

Shade19, Titanium Grey, and vanilla Sands


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> What do you guys think of this combination?
> Shade19, Titanium Grey, and vanilla Sands


One of my favorite combos.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> One of my favorite combos.


I agree. I also like the offset of the vanilla to one side, looks clean. If you do it that way, make sure your routing is clean or it will be painfully obvious.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> I agree. I also like the offset of the vanilla to one side, looks clean. If you do it that way, make sure your routing is clean or it will be painfully obvious.


Luckily, it is for a prodigy build and the PSU is literally right underneath the motherboard...so cabling will be uber clean and lined up properly. I won't have to stitch the sleeving or anything...


----------



## wot

My AX850


----------



## longroadtrip

The routing is interesting...I like it!


----------



## ekg84

just finished sleeving my Silencer MK III







the build is almost ready


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> just finished sleeving my Silencer MK III
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the build is almost ready


Love the color scheme!


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Love the color scheme!


thank you Lutroo, i like working with a paracord the only downside of it - it gets dirty relatively easy, especially white one


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> thank you Lutroo, i like working with a paracord the only downside of it - it gets dirty relatively easy, especially white one


You are correct! I actually wash my hands more then a few times when I work with any kind of white sleeving. Not only does it not get marks on the white sleeving but it gives you a better grip as well.


----------



## aqualad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I've had a reply from Eclipse who state '*You would need the 300-009 or 300-164*' for the Molex 39-00-0038 and 39-00-0040 pins
> *
> 300-009*
> *300-164*
> I've only had a quick look so there will be better images/prices out there.


Might be late replying here, anyway i have this same crimper about 39.00 ship. It is a very solid build tool very sturdy with pressure adjustment and a nice solid grip.
Here is my posting from a different thread... However I'm thimking with a better die set it might do better but not sure what model die to get.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/80


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

I thought these were strong?











Aftermath of my clash with my Silverstone PCI Cords... It won
















I did get them almost fully done tho


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aqualad*
> 
> Might be late replying here, anyway i have this same crimper about 39.00 ship. It is a very solid build tool very sturdy with pressure adjustment and a nice solid grip.
> Here is my posting from a different thread... However I'm thimking with a better die set it might do better but not sure what model die to get.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/80


I would honestly stick with the mdpc crimper for right now until I cave or someone else (big elf) buys one and tests it. I would hate to see you buy one and then have to get the mdpc crimper anyhow. SO far the track record for other crimpers has been really bad. So just a warning.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I thought these were strong?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aftermath of my clash with my Silverstone PCI Cords... It won
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get them almost fully done tho


The force required to do that is allot, you really lost that battle lol


----------



## JonathanNgo

Well, after a night or two thinking about having someone sleeved my PSU cables and doing it myself, I think I will try to sleeve it to test how skillful I am lol.

However, I realized that my AX 850 PCI-E cable have a 2-wires-in-1-hole at the PSU connector going in 2-wires-in-2-holes at the PCI-E connector. I believe that 2 wires wont be fit in 1 hole after doing the sleeving and putting the heat shrink on. What will be the best solution for that problem?

Actually, I have seen a guide seeing how to create to *Y connection* , but it needs to be solderred. Any solution beside that one?

Thank you in advance, Lutro0.

P.S: Sorry for my bad English since I am not an English native speaker


----------



## carmas

I think that creating the Y connection with soldering is an easy and clean solution.

Otherwise I guess there are solderless splices. I am not sure if these are right, somebody more experienced should confirm it
Molex 19204-0004
Molex 19164-0011

Anyway, I think it would be some unnecessary trouble to find such splices.


----------



## mandrix

Pinout diagram for my Seasonic SS-1000XP PSU. The reason I underlined "my" is I've seen different pinout diagrams for Seasonic PSU's. I verified continuity between each connector with a meter, but use at your own risk, I will not be responsible for yours being wired differently!
All connector views are from the rear of the connector with the latch on top.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JonathanNgo*
> 
> Well, after a night or two thinking about having someone sleeved my PSU cables and doing it myself, I think I will try to sleeve it to test how skillful I am lol.
> However, I realized that my AX 850 PCI-E cable have a 2-wires-in-1-hole at the PSU connector going in 2-wires-in-2-holes at the PCI-E connector. I believe that 2 wires wont be fit in 1 hole after doing the sleeving and putting the heat shrink on. What will be the best solution for that problem?
> Actually, I have seen a guide seeing how to create to *Y connection* , but it needs to be solderred. Any solution beside that one?
> Thank you in advance, Lutro0.
> P.S: Sorry for my bad English since I am not an English native speaker


I would follow the splice method, if care is taken it looks the best out of all of them that I have seen, and the solder just makes the electrical connection that much better.


----------



## Ramsey77

I have been using the aluminum skeleton from work to remove my pins for sleeving for a while now, and decided to make a tool today.










Pieces cut from skeleton:










Tool holder is just a piece of aluminum I threw in the mill:



















Yes, the aluminum ends are pretty fragile so it takes quite a bit of finesse to use without bending them, but hey they are replaceable....and free!


----------



## Ramsey77

LOL. I ordered a 24 pin extension from the egg a few days ago. Can anyone explain to me why there should be a double pin in the bunch?


----------



## wlw wl

Some say it improves voltage sensing if it comes directly from the PSU, to me it's mostly a marketing gimmick and it does nothing. In case of this extensions, it actually does nothing


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Some say it improves voltage sensing if it comes directly from the PSU, to me it's mostly a marketing gimmick and it does nothing. In case of this extensions, it actually does nothing


Haha, bingo. I would snip off that extra wire or crimp a new one.


----------



## Furion92

Totally useless double connection








Quote:


> Originally Posted by wlw wl
> 
> Some say it improves voltage sensing if it comes directly from the PSU, to me it's mostly a marketing gimmick and it does nothing. In case of this extensions, it actually does nothing


I think you meant "[...] if it comes directly from the cable end, [...]"


----------



## wlw wl

From the PSU to the connector at the end of 24-pin cable, for example. Then it can be used (by the PSU's logic) to sense the voltage at the MB connector instead of the PSU itself, but I don't really believe that idea myself.
A double wire such as in that extensions makes no sense.


----------



## Furion92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> From the PSU to the connector at the end of 24-pin cable, for example. Then it can be used (by the PSU's logic) to sense the voltage at the MB connector instead of the PSU itself, but I don't really believe that idea myself.
> A double wire such as in that extensions makes no sense.


It's physics and math.
For the math part, play around with this calculator: click!

Example: 18AWG wire, copper, 2 feet, 3V DC

2A -> 1.77% voltage drop
3A -> 2.63% voltage drop

That could already cost the PSU its efficiency rating.

Well and for the physics part: There's no way I could explain all that good stuff (!irony!) in another language than my native one


----------



## wlw wl

Yes, but any given wire that you wish to sense a voltage from it's end instead of the beginning, has a defined (constant) length and gauge, therefore it can be accounted for without running another wire to sense it on the other end. The sensing wire will introduce a drop as well, so you have to account for that too. So why account for two semi-constants, when you can do with just one? That's what I don't get.
You've shown it yourself, the error can be easily calculated.


----------



## Furion92

You're right, there are constant factors, such as cable length and material. But the cable's resistance depends on the load. From an engineering point of view, it's way easier to implement the voltage regulation over the remote sensing connection than multiplying these constants with the variable load.

There's a maximum current of 10mA allowed to flow over the remote sensing wire, so the voltage drop coming from the additional wire shouldn't be too big.

That's my view. There are power supplies that "cheat" on the ATX specs, but as reviewers and test results show, they don't work as good as similar models with proper remote sensing (but we're spinning in circles, we've had that topic before).


----------



## wlw wl

True, I thought about that when I was writing the last post - the extra wire is excluded from the load, which changes a variable into a constant.

Anyway, the extra wire in an extension cable is useless and can be safely removed.


----------



## RedBaron V2

well i ordered 300ft of paracord and 100ft of heatshrink and pin removers  soo inc pics of my first attempt at sleeving para cord in say a month lol? any tips ?


----------



## wlw wl

Try heatshrinkless first, it's IMO easier than shrinked, and looks better. You just have to get the sleeve's length right, which you'll figure out after a couple of attempts







Nothing beats trial and error!


----------



## RedBaron V2

ok lol yeah i ordered a ton of paracord was only like 30 bucks shiped so i can always order more xD


----------



## mandrix

Probably been posted 100 times but search isn't finding it. So, I still have SATA data cables left to sleeve. What size sleeve & shrink? 1/2"?

Thanks!

Well I ordered some 10 & 12mm, it'll fit something! lol.


----------



## Aleckazee

I'm planning a new build (all that sleeving to do again







) and I was wondering if I could get some advice/opinions on colour scheme.
I will also be watercooling and would rather use either white or black tubing (since that's what I already have).
This is the motherboard I'll be using. Oh and the case is black.



I was thinking of going with black and white sleeving and white tubes, but it sounds a bit too plain


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleckazee*
> 
> I'm planning a new build (all that sleeving to do again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and I was wondering if I could get some advice/opinions on colour scheme.
> I will also be watercooling and would rather use either white or black tubing (since that's what I already have).
> This is the motherboard I'll be using. Oh and the case is black.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking of going with black and white sleeving and white tubes, but it sounds a bit too plain


How about this? You would have to order from mdpc though.


----------



## longroadtrip

Random..thanks for using my photo!


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Random..thanks for using my photo!


Sorry, its a great combo and I was just checkin my threads before I left the house haha so I couldn't put a "picture courtesy of" tag on there


----------



## longroadtrip

I was only teasing you Random..If I was concerned, I would have watermarked it...







Nothing to be sorry for...


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> I was only teasing you Random..If I was concerned, I would have watermarked it...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing to be sorry for...


Good to hear, some people are picky about using their pic as examples but its only because I love the color scheme you came up with on that board, Lovin the yin and yang builds too still waiting for more progress.


----------



## longroadtrip

Posted an update this evening...Will be posting sleeving pics here this week...


----------



## Aleckazee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> How about this? You would have to order from mdpc though.


Definitely a nice choice. I really like the green they have for sale but I don't think it would look good in my setup haha

EDIT: Is that schwarz, shade 19 or titanium grau? (on the left)

And in terms of tubing, do you think black would be best?


----------



## longroadtrip

Colors are shade19. titanium grey, vanilla sands, shade19


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Great work in this thread. Does anyone do full Corsair AX series cables?


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

I Will...for like $1,000









Did my HX-850 ...PITA!!!


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THE BEAR JEW*
> 
> I Will...for like $1,000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did my HX-850 ...PITA!!!


I see I'm in the wrong thread


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

I am only kidding...I'm sure there are plenty of people on here that would be glad to assist you. After doing mine..I said never again lol.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Great work in this thread. Does anyone do full Corsair AX series cables?


Be prepared to spend a couple hundred or more for a full set, especially if they use MDPC sleeving...you're looking at several hours of work to do it right...and the AX cables aren't the easiest to sleeve...


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Be prepared to spend a couple hundred or more for a full set, especially if they use MDPC sleeving...you're looking at several hours of work to do it right...and the AX cables aren't the easiest to sleeve...


Thank you, I appreciate it. @least I know what I am looking @...

+REP


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Great work in this thread. Does anyone do full Corsair AX series cables?


I did everything on mine (except the 24 pin) with paracord. I just bought an extension for the 24 pin, and did it the easy way.


----------



## ekg84

just finished installing my PCPC MK III which i sleeved couple of days ago. Looks decent, but for those who is thinking about getting one of these psu's, if you have a mid tower or bigger cpu 8 pin will most likely be too short, i had to use an extension in my core 3000.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> just finished installing my PCPC MK III which i sleeved couple of days ago. Looks decent, but for those who is thinking about getting one of these psu's, if you have a mid tower or bigger cpu 8 pin will most likely be too short, i had to use an extension in my core 3000.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This turned out great. I am a sucker for purple in a rig though









Just the right amount of color added and very clean routing.


----------



## Lutro0

Heatshrinkless Video Guide is now up!


----------



## madbrayniak

all of the videos say that they are unavailable for me. Were they taken down?


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madbrayniak*
> 
> all of the videos say that they are unavailable for me. Were they taken down?


They work fine for me.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madbrayniak*
> 
> all of the videos say that they are unavailable for me. Were they taken down?


'

They should be up and working. Let me know if you still have issues with them.


----------



## kyismaster

http://www.overclock.net/t/1285951/heatshrinkless-550-paracord-sleeving-log-constantly-updated

lol,

starting my adventure


----------



## Badwrench

Finally got started on my most recent. Build is for a coworker. I will be starting a build log as well once more parts show up. For now though, psu is a Lepa N500 (CWT build), and sleeving is Black, Blue, and Turquoise paracord.

Setting up:


One hour later:


First try with heatshrinkless. Much faster:


----------



## Hukkel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Heatshrinkless Video Guide is now up!


Another top notch video!


----------



## ajo518

in the videos he talked about getting a heat gun. a great alternative is an embossing heat gun which is smaller and can target a more precise area. like this one http://www.amazon.com/Uchida-Embossing-Heat-Tool-Stand/dp/B000QTFH58/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1343312814&sr=8-3&keywords=embossing+heat+gun
just an idea.


----------



## pbaines




----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbaines*


Looks good!!

Is that a Bionicle?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Looks good!!
> Is that a Bionicle?


yes, yes it is.









I haven't seen one in forever.


----------



## kyismaster

I just use > http://www2.northerntool.com/painting/heat-guns/item-1595676.htm < this heat gun









Does everything from shrinking, to desoldering lol.

I desoldered my copper laptop heatsink wohoo, fixed it thankfully.

it comes with some fittings to help direct the flow of heat







awesome it is.


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

Would this 7970
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102961

be compatible with this block?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_578&products_id=34865

sorry..wrong page


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THE BEAR JEW*
> 
> Would this 7970
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102961
> be compatible with this block?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_578&products_id=34865
> sorry..wrong page


SORRY MODS BUT.

(OT:

I believe so.

water blocks usually play nicer with reference blocks. )


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I just use > http://www2.northerntool.com/painting/heat-guns/item-1595676.htm < this heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does everything from shrinking, to desoldering lol.
> I desoldered my copper laptop heatsink wohoo, fixed it thankfully.
> it comes with some fittings to help direct the flow of heat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> awesome it is.


Looks exactly like mine, but I have a cheaper model. I bet the cool down feature is awesome, probably would have saved me a nasty burn I got a while back. If I had seen that one I would have got it instead.
Next time my heat gun falls over I will NOT try to catch it. Now repeat 100 times. I will not try to catch it... I will not try to catch it.....
I need to look for or make an adapter for mine to reduce the size of the discharge opening.


----------



## Evilsplashy

http://www.moddiy.com/products/Seasonic-Platinum-Series-%7B47%7D-X-Series-Custom-PSU-Modular-Cables.html

Are these a good buy? I can't seem to sleeve my Seasonic x750 without failing hard. I'm having problems getting the sleeve to stay on and also getting the wire back in the connector..I'm a noob







BTW it's paracord. Is FTW sleeve or MDPC sleeve easier?


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evilsplashy*
> 
> http://www.moddiy.com/products/Seasonic-Platinum-Series-%7B47%7D-X-Series-Custom-PSU-Modular-Cables.html
> Are these a good buy? I can't seem to sleeve my Seasonic x750 without failing hard. I'm having problems getting the sleeve to stay on and also getting the wire back in the connector..I'm a noob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW it's paracord. Is FTW sleeve or MDPC sleeve easier?


It's hard to say if they are good without knowing what sleeving they are using. From the pictures it looks pretty good, especially if it's not too expensive.

As far as yours, what tool are you using? I will admit that the seasonics (and some corsairs) can be tricky, but as long as you are using a real molex tool, and are patient, and using the correct technique (tool in - push wire to engage pins in tool - pull wire out while the tool is still in the pin). The sticky ones, I just use a small pair of needle nose pliers and pivot off the connector. If the pin is mangled, I just crimp on a new one.

As far as paracord, it is just another type of sleeving. MDPC and FTW are completely different in that they are braided plastic that expands greatly when you push the ends of the sleeving together. They are much harder to snag on pins, but require a different technique. Watch Lutro0's vids to see the difference.

I personally use paracord as I am a modder on a budget, and I like the matte finish.


----------



## Evilsplashy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> It's hard to say if they are good without knowing what sleeving they are using. From the pictures it looks pretty good, especially if it's not too expensive.
> As far as yours, what tool are you using? I will admit that the seasonics (and some corsairs) can be tricky, but as long as you are using a real molex tool, and are patient, and using the correct technique (tool in - push wire to engage pins in tool - pull wire out while the tool is still in the pin). The sticky ones, I just use a small pair of needle nose pliers and pivot off the connector. If the pin is mangled, I just crimp on a new one.
> As far as paracord, it is just another type of sleeving. MDPC and FTW are completely different in that they are braided plastic that expands greatly when you push the ends of the sleeving together. They are much harder to snag on pins, but require a different technique. Watch Lutro0's vids to see the difference.
> I personally use paracord as I am a modder on a budget, and I like the matte finish.


Yeah, I use the tools Lutro0 recommended. It can just never get them back in the connector. Getting them out is easy.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Looks exactly like mine, but I have a cheaper model. I bet the cool down feature is awesome, probably would have saved me a nasty burn I got a while back. If I had seen that one I would have got it instead.
> Next time my heat gun falls over I will NOT try to catch it. Now repeat 100 times. I will not try to catch it... I will not try to catch it.....
> I need to look for or make an adapter for mine to reduce the size of the discharge opening.


that sounds extremely painful lol. 1250F + skin = bacon


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evilsplashy*
> 
> http://www.moddiy.com/products/Seasonic-Platinum-Series-%7B47%7D-X-Series-Custom-PSU-Modular-Cables.html
> Are these a good buy? I can't seem to sleeve my Seasonic x750 without failing hard. I'm having problems getting the sleeve to stay on and also getting the wire back in the connector..I'm a noob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW it's paracord. Is FTW sleeve or MDPC sleeve easier?


Their sleeving is pretty decent, actually. I've heard their work is really good as well, apparently they do shrinkless sleeving on the cables you order from them, but I wouldn't order their shrink as it appears to all be the glue type. I just got some more sleeving from modDIY to do my SATA data cables. I've never seen MDPC sleeving so I don't really have a way to compare but I have no issues with modDIY sleeving other than my poor crimper/skills. I would like to try MDPC one day and see if I can tell a difference but I got tired of trying to connect on my/Nils schedule and just got mine from moddiy instead.
So judging by the sleeving itself I say you would be pretty safe ordering pre sleeved cables from them if the price is right.

I still have a 24 pin I'm sleeving with paracord as time permits. Was able to get a better color match with paracord, but idk, the plastic sleeving just feels so "durable", hard to explain.


----------



## yanks8981

I am trying to come up with a good color scheme for my Asus x79 pro with Corsair Vengence blue RAM and XFX 7970s. The 7970s have a touch of red in them, but I don't know that I can get that mixed in well. Any thoughts?


----------



## THE BEAR JEW

slap a waterblock on the 7970s.


----------



## Evilsplashy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Their sleeving is pretty decent, actually. I've heard their work is really good as well, apparently they do shrinkless sleeving on the cables you order from them, but I wouldn't order their shrink as it appears to all be the glue type. I just got some more sleeving from modDIY to do my SATA data cables. I've never seen MDPC sleeving so I don't really have a way to compare but I have no issues with modDIY sleeving other than my poor crimper/skills. I would like to try MDPC one day and see if I can tell a difference but I got tired of trying to connect on my/Nils schedule and just got mine from moddiy instead.
> So judging by the sleeving itself I say you would be pretty safe ordering pre sleeved cables from them if the price is right.
> I still have a 24 pin I'm sleeving with paracord as time permits. Was able to get a better color match with paracord, but idk, the plastic sleeving just feels so "durable", hard to explain.


Yeah I think i'll purchase it. Maybe some time in the future i'll sleeve my own cables when I feel I can do it lol.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yanks8981*
> 
> I am trying to come up with a good color scheme for my Asus x79 pro with Corsair Vengence blue RAM and XFX 7970s. The 7970s have a touch of red in them, but I don't know that I can get that mixed in well. Any thoughts?


Post your request here buddy!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1288039/sleeved-cable-color-example-gallery-and-color-suggestion-thread/0_20


----------



## yanks8981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Post your request here buddy!
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1288039/sleeved-cable-color-example-gallery-and-color-suggestion-thread/0_20


Done sir!


----------



## Lutro0




----------



## randomnerd865

Here is an updated photo of my rig, first time sleeving. As always special thanks to Lutro0 for his guides and advice.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Here is an updated photo of my rig, first time sleeving. As always special thanks to Lutro0 for his guides and advice.


Psh you did all the work bud, and you did a great job of it.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Here is an updated photo of my rig, first time sleeving. As always special thanks to Lutro0 for his guides and advice.










my first time came out like this too except different color scheme, nice clean job

how long did it take?

took me about 4 days v___v . . . . on the 24 pin alone.


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Psh you did all the work bud, and you did a great job of it.










Thanks still couldn't have done the work without your guidance.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my first time came out like this too except different color scheme, nice clean job
> how long did it take?
> took me about 4 days v___v . . . . on the 24 pin alone.


It took me a while, I did the 6 pin twice before I could get the heat-shrinkless to look right then it was pretty smooth sailing from there, but I worked a lot at the time so i'd work on it when I got bored late at night probably throughout the span of a week for and hour or two here and there but mine are extensions so it takes way less time than the whole PSU.


----------



## Ramsey77

Due to my OCD, I am building some wire looms to keep the single wires from getting twisted into a rat's nest. Pics later.


----------



## Ramsey77

Just a piece of plastic with 24 little holes evenly spaced. If these work well enough, I might make a few for the GPU.


----------



## randomnerd865

^ Thats an awesome Idea ^


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> ^ Thats an awesome Idea ^


Thanks.

I added two more to it:


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Thanks.
> I added two more to it:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You could so sell these!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Just a piece of plastic with 24 little holes evenly spaced. If these work well enough, I might make a few for the GPU.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ah, darn, now I gotta make some for myself!
That is a great idea, I had considered something a little different, that is no holes but slotted, but maybe having the individual holes works out better, if a little more work?
Anyway, looks fantastic!








Mind if I asked what spacing center to center you used? I have absolutely no problem stealing -er- I mean using your idea.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Ah, darn, now I gotta make some for myself!
> That is a great idea, I had considered something a little different, that is no holes but slotted, but maybe having the individual holes works out better, if a little more work?
> Anyway, looks fantastic!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mind if I asked what spacing center to center you used? I have absolutely no problem stealing -er- I mean using your idea.


I drilled them in a Milling machine, and one turn of the feed wheel is 0.200" or about 5mm.


----------



## Ramsey77

In action:










I hurried up and just threw it in this morning. I think I will take it back to work and file them down some more.....and make up a few for the GPU and see what it looks like. A more rounded finish will probably look better IMO.

Edit: I hate the blue pcb on my gpu.


----------



## witho

so so cool


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *witho*
> 
> so so cool


Thanks.







I found inspiration while looking at a Summit Racing catalog, when I came across the looms for spark plug wires.


----------



## Badwrench

All finished:



I will zip-tie all the bundles cleanly when I install it.


----------



## audioholic

Is it coincidence that the sleeving matches your patio chair?


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found inspiration while looking at a Summit Racing catalog, when I came across the looms for spark plug wires.


Thats what this reminded me of, I love how all us computer nerds are also into cars!


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found inspiration while looking at a Summit Racing catalog, when I came across the looms for spark plug wires.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats what this reminded me of, I love how all us computer nerds are also into cars!
Click to expand...

Hence why my next build log (which might just be sponsored) is going inside a car


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Hence why my next build log (which might just be sponsored) is going inside a car


Holy mother of...I want pics


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Just a piece of plastic with 24 little holes evenly spaced. If these work well enough, I might make a few for the GPU.


I had the same idea but, not a closed hole lol,







more like a "comb" really. i guess holed one is better i guess.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Is it coincidence that the sleeving matches your patio chair?


Yup. Build is for a friends nephew and his favorite color is blue.


----------



## Ramsey77

Did the GPU cables tonight. I think they turned out well.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I drilled them in a Milling machine, and one turn of the feed wheel is 0.200" or about 5mm.


Cool. I no longer have access to a Bridgeport, unfortunately, but my drill press should do it. Thanks!
Heh, wire loom for engines, thought that looked sort of familiar! Since my Z28 has coil-on-plug I haven't seen any in a while.
Great adaptation from the car to the pc world!


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I drilled them in a Milling machine, and one turn of the feed wheel is 0.200" or about 5mm.
> 
> 
> 
> Cool. I no longer have access to a Bridgeport, unfortunately, but my drill press should do it. Thanks!
> Heh, wire loom for engines, thought that looked sort of familiar! Since my Z28 has coil-on-plug I haven't seen any in a while.
> Great adaptation from the car to the pc world!
Click to expand...

It's early, its been a LONG night, and I read that sentence as "my Z68 has coil-on-plug" and I was all liek wait wut?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Hence why my next build log (which might just be sponsored) is going inside a car
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Holy mother of...I want pics
Click to expand...

It's going to be a lengthy build log:


Custom mounting bracket for 7" LCD touchscreen
Custom case built inside my glovebox with some clever duct work I have planned to get rid of the heat
Completely re-wire the entire speaker system
Design a custom box for all the audio equipment in the trunk within the spare-tire area
Upgrade the car's electrical system
Possible LED TV or projector in the trunk as well

Needless to say there will be a complete build log in the sponsored build log section complete with pictures of my car being torn apart and violated.


----------



## Ramsey77

What kind of car will this be going in?


----------



## pbaines




----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbaines*


Nice.


----------



## Adrenalined

Ok so, some time ago I posted pictures of my first sleeving job.

















Well after a bunch of delays I was finally able to finish sleeving the main cables needed to get this thing up and running. Here is another shot with the core cables done. This is the beginning stages of my first real cable management job as well. Thoughts, comments, tips, or criticism welcome.
(sorry for the terrible picture quality)


----------



## Badwrench

Installed:



Didn't sleeve the stock cooler as it is getting replaced. Too noisy for a sound recording rig.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> What kind of car will this be going in?


2007 Honda Accord, build log below as not to pollute this thread. I will be sleeving though though since it will be in the glove box and will be shown off.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1289905/project-rose-a-car-puter-in-planning/0_50#post_17855197


----------



## Furion92

Hey guys,

I think some of us might be familiar with the following problem:

When you're sleeving your front panel USB connections, the heatshrink over the connector on the motherboard side won't allow you to bend the cable like you would want to bend it. The result doesn't look that good (at least in my opinion).

So I was searching for a solution and tried to find something like a 90° USB header connector, but couldn't find any.
Well, here's what I tried next:



Just a simple female to male USB extension with a right angle.

Let me hear what you think about it. I tried to calculate the difference of the signal timings because of the different cable lengths, but came to the conclusion that they're negligible. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## mandrix

I don't see why it wouldn't work. I usually don't even try to bend any of mine before the end of the shrink. The exception being where my power connectors go into the Xstation on the side of the rig, I pretty much have to bend the crap out of the ends of the wire going into the 4 pin connectors to get the side panel on.


----------



## Extreme191Pro

My made cable sleeving:


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Extreme191Pro*
> 
> My made cable sleeving:


Nice clean job bud!


----------



## Extreme191Pro

Thank you inspired by your cable Sleeving.


----------



## Lutro0

Thanks man! I love to hear that because that's the main reason I invest the time into the guides and such!


----------



## axipher

Lutro0, quick question for you.

For my upcoming build log, Project Rose, I'm going to probably go all out and sleeve everything, including the speaker wires as well as the big 12 V power and ground cables going to the amplifiers. What is your recommendation for sleeving the speaker wires in particular.

they will be #16 at the most, but 2 wires joined together. I'm thinking doing a short run on the ends where I need to split it apart with little pieces of heat shrink, then a slightly larger size heat shrink along the entire length of the cable with its heat shrink overlapping right at the split in the cable where the two individual wires are heat shrunk.


----------



## Lutro0

That sounds like it will work fine. I would use a plastic type sleeve such as MDPC simply due to the durability. That goes the same for the hs. However I have a few ideas for durability with that one.

Depending on how large the split is you might be able to get away with some fancy heatshrinking - but I would need to see it to make recommendations


----------



## idaWHALE

After sleeving:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Before:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I sleeved the 24 pin power and the 2 fans attached to the H100








Also got black 3 min connectors from fans I had laying around


----------



## longroadtrip

Interesting way to sleeve the fans...never seen it done that way before...the system looks great


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> That sounds like it will work fine. I would use a plastic type sleeve such as MDPC simply due to the durability. That goes the same for the hs. However I have a few ideas for durability with that one.
> 
> Depending on how large the split is you might be able to get away with some fancy heatshrinking - but I would need to see it to make recommendations


It would be a split similar to the picture below. I would then be crimping on some fork connectors on the ends.


----------



## idaWHALE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Interesting way to sleeve the fans...never seen it done that way before...the system looks great


thanks! I was looking at buying some extensions instead of sleeving myself and I saw some extensions that were done that way and I liked it


----------



## idaWHALE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Extreme191Pro*
> 
> My made cable sleeving:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like the multi-color sleeving. Also I dig the white coolant


----------



## Ali Man

Also was inspired by lutros detail guide. Although these aren't MDPC-X, I just couldn't wait that long for them to arrive. So I used TechFlex. It isn't perfect or the best, but it was unique to my own:



























Thanks for watching


----------



## Rye26

here's my share.. planning to re-do my sleeves but this time, I might go for shrinkless..


----------



## nostra

Heres my HX1050 MDPC sleeved


----------



## Lutro0




----------



## nostra

Looks AWESOME!


----------



## Lutro0

Before I present my photos.. Nils, whom I have had the honor to get to know quite well and consider a very close freind. Has given me the honor of receiving a color before anyone else has layed eyes upon it. I will let his own words say why he did this. "...that you got it before it was presented, because I wanted to honor you for all you did for the sleevers on this world with your nice tutorials"
Thanks Nils!

The newest color: Commando Green #20 is nothing short of awesome!


----------



## wlw wl

Very nice, my friend! And you have well deserved it









And what is the inner-most green called?


----------



## Furion92

"Ranger-Green (aka Combat-Green)"
That's what it says on the website.

Nice shot Lutro0







As wlw wl already said, that's a well-deserved honor


----------



## Futan

My first attempt at sleeving:



Not perfect, but I'm proud of myself nonetheless. Lol.


----------



## vassskk

^^ looks good with that pumpbody.


----------



## Futan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vassskk*
> 
> ^^ looks good with that pumpbody.


Thanks!


----------



## axipher

Wow, that's amazing man


----------



## AsusFanZA123

Howdy all, been watching these amazing threads for a while and decided its about time to join.

Please excuse the poor quality pictures and mess of a power supply casing, its still a work in progress







This is what South Africa is getting up to lol.







Any comments and suggestions are welcome.


----------



## demon72

Hello..... Ima try sleeving out my PSU... I know MDPC's real nice, but how 'bout the Kobra? I think Im gonna do purple and orange UV. Odd combo I know but what the hell. I really like the way it looks shrinkless Ill needa figure out how to acomplish that.... Its late for me, Ill look in to the tutorial tommorrow. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demon72*
> 
> Hello..... Ima try sleeving out my PSU... I know MDPC's real nice, but how 'bout the Kobra? I think Im gonna do purple and orange UV. Odd combo I know but what the hell. I really like the way it looks shrinkless Ill needa figure out how to acomplish that.... Its late for me, Ill look in to the tutorial tommorrow. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated


If you check the Sleeving FAQ I have written a rundown of Kobra Sleeving.

But in short -

It is a pain to get onto the wires and the coverage is ok. The sleeving would have been better if it was slightly larger in diameter. Also the price is crazy high.

My recommendation would be to get it from MDPC - the average shipping rate is around 15 so its not terrible for a quality product that's in a class of its own.


----------



## Lutro0




----------



## pbaines

Miss your heatshrink'ed sleeving Lutro0, but man, you know how to make cables look sexy


----------



## mandrix

Thinking seriously about going ahead and getting the MDPC crimper. I'm pretty much tired of fighting with mine. Can anyone tell me what it costs shipped to US? I swear I can never remember to connect to the itn'l site when it's open.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Thinking seriously about going ahead and getting the MDPC crimper. I'm pretty much tired of fighting with mine. Can anyone tell me what it costs shipped to US? I swear I can never remember to connect to the itn'l site when it's open.


According to my Paypal, my total was like $82 or so, but that was the crimper and extra pins. The pins are cheap, so that gives you a ballpark.


----------



## Big Elf

Bear in mind as well that it looks like MDPC-X won't be getting any more of these tools made once the latest batch is sold so it's worth getting one while they're available.


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Bear in mind as well that it looks like MDPC-X won't be getting any more of these tools made once the latest batch is sold so it's worth getting one while they're available.


what


----------



## Big Elf

From the MDPC site:

*'...As I will not spend the rest of my lifetime with the complex manufacturing of such good crimping tools, this will be the last production batch and I hope it will last until early 2013...'*

I recently bought a spare one after I saw that.


----------



## carmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> From the MDPC site:
> *'...As I will not spend the rest of my lifetime with the complex manufacturing of such good crimping tools, this will be the last production batch and I hope it will last until early 2013...'*
> I recently bought a spare one after I saw that.


Ouch, I will order one next time the shop is open for orders.


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> From the MDPC site:
> *'...As I will not spend the rest of my lifetime with the complex manufacturing of such good crimping tools, this will be the last production batch and I hope it will last until early 2013...'*
> I recently bought a spare one after I saw that.


i have one, but i've been in college and out of te computer loop lately. To me it seems something is happening in "early 2013"


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> i have one, but i've been in college and out of te computer loop lately. To me it seems something is happening in "early 2013"


I'm just guessing but I expect that's when, based on previous sales, he expects to have sold them all.


----------



## socketus

How can I plan my order and look at the products, while MDPC-X isn't open?
Just go to the German MDPC-X website and look around: de.mdpc-x.com
If you are not from the EU (European Union): Remember that the prices, which you see in the German store, include 19% VAT. If you register and log in here at the international MDPC website (and you are not from the EU!), *you would see 19% cheaper prices than in the German store, because it is free of VAT*









So that would be $54.99 - 19% [$10.45] = $44.55 + shipping


----------



## Furion92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> So that would be $54.99 - 19% [$10.45] = $44.55 + shipping


May I correct you? It's 54.99*€* which is roughly 67.75$. The conversion from incl VAT to excl VAT isn't "-19%", but "÷ 1.19".

So 67.75$/1.19 = 56.93$


----------



## socketus

ooh, you're right about the Euro price, but are you sure its not 19% less ? That's how the language reads, tho its translated in chrome.


----------



## Furion92

Yes I'm sure. You subtract the 19% of the original price. The price incl. VAT is exactly 1.19 times the original price


----------



## socketus

Ohhh, i get it. well I flunked that math 3 times x 1, so I wouldn't know, thanks for the re-educatine-mint


----------



## mandrix

Thanks to all of you that responded to the MDPC crimpers price and shipping.







. I will try to get hooked up when he's open again and place an order.


----------



## Killbuzzjrad

So can someone point me in the right direction as to how I can sleeve a 6+2 connector for my GPU? I have a Corsair HX850 and the male connector is an 8 pin but only 6 are used and the female connector is one of those 6+2. If anyone has sleeved a similar cable, pics would be nice.


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killbuzzjrad*
> 
> So can someone point me in the right direction as to how I can sleeve a 6+2 connector for my GPU? I have a Corsair HX850 and the male connector is an 8 pin but only 6 are used and the female connector is one of those 6+2. If anyone has sleeved a similar cable, pics would be nice.


those are nearly impossible to sleeve without recrimping. You can remove both pins and sleeve going from the +2 part to the 6 and itll be decent


----------



## Grimloque

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> those are nearly impossible to sleeve without recrimping. You can remove both pins and sleeve going from the +2 part to the 6 and itll be decent


I ran into the same problem with my PSU. In the end I bought extension cables (8-pin to 8-pin) and just sleeved them....much less hassle.


----------



## mandrix

Finally, finally I was able to connect with MDPC and order a crimper. I do hope Nils' crimpers are as good as people say. I am sick of fighting with the one I have, and before I ever sleeve another psu I want something that makes better, easier crimps.


----------



## Furion92

You won't be disappointed








Never had problems with mine, whether I crimped the pins for 24pin, 8pin, 6pin or SATA or those tiny header pins... Everything worked fine.


----------



## insertacoolname

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is exactly what I meant when I was talking about red black grey... and it looks GOOD!


----------



## carmas

Finally I placed my order on MDPC for the crimping tool and sleeve (I ordered several colours, since I couldn't make my mind). The funny thing is that I was not able to place my order from the German website, so I had to do it from the international one.

Now I only need to order wires, crimps and connectors, watch again Lutr0's videos, and then I am good to go


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> Finally I placed my order on MDPC for the crimping tool and sleeve (I ordered several colours, since I couldn't make my mind). The funny thing is that I was not able to place my order from the German website, so I had to do it from the international one.
> Now I only need to order wires, crimps and connectors, watch again Lutr0's videos, and then I am good to go


Heh, that is funny! Did they add VAT?
I believe Nils includes some pins with the crimper.


----------



## wlw wl

There's some new - well I don't know if it's new but I never seen it before - Molex auto-crimper for mini-fit (ATX) and KK (fan) pins, it's bloody expensive - around $340 - and it looks like this:
http://www.modding.bit-tech.pl/img/p/4/2/6/426-thickbox.jpg

That would make the job such a pleasant thing...


----------



## Futan

Can you crimp Molex connectors with the MDPC crimp? :x


----------



## carmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Heh, that is funny! Did they add VAT?
> I believe Nils includes some pins with the crimper.


Yes, VAT was included.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Futan*
> 
> Can you crimp Molex connectors with the MDPC crimp? :x


Do you mean Molex pins? That's something I would like to know as well. I suppose it will work, but I would be glad to hear if somebody has experience with using this crimping tool with both pins. Probably I will order both, to compare them myself.


----------



## Big Elf

Do you mean the Molex pins for the 4 pin auxilliary/hard disk connector (the ATX male and female pins are also made by Molex)? The tool will crimp them but will gradually wear out the 'v' on the MDPC-X tool that produces the bite on the crimp so it's not really recommended.

I use the blue handled 225D 'non-bite' crimping tool for these pins but you can fit the pins using needle nosed pliers to crimp them.


----------



## carmas

Thank you for the answer, Big Elf. Rather than ruining the MDPC crimping tool I will buy another crimping tool for those Molex pins.

Anyway, I was also wondering about the other pins, like the Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Female Pins - 39-00-0038. I was just wondering how the pins offered by MDPC compare to these. In the FAQ there is a comparison with other OEM pins, and the suggestion is to go with the original Molex Mini-Fit Jr. Probably I will order a bunch of these together with the wires.


----------



## Big Elf

AFAIK the MDPC-X pins are the same OEM molex pins. I know from personal experience that the copy pins available can have problems, either breaking when pre-crimping or distorted 'wings' after crimping. Also some of them don't have the longer 'wings'.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Do you mean the Molex pins for the 4 pin auxilliary/hard disk connector (the ATX male and female pins are also made by Molex)? The tool will crimp them but will gradually wear out the 'v' on the MDPC-X tool that produces the bite on the crimp so it's not really recommended.
> I use the blue handled 225D 'non-bite' crimping tool for these pins but you can fit the pins using needle nosed pliers to crimp them.


BE I'm so glad you reminded us of that! I had forgot and certainly don't want to screw up the MDPC crimper doing power pins. I will use my old crimper for that as it does a pretty fair job if I face the tabs into the crimp enclosure instead of toward the "teeth" on the tool.


----------



## Sevada88

Guys, how do you remove a crimp from the cable? Do you just cut it?


----------



## wlw wl

Yup.

Even if you'd remove the old pin, the new one wouldn't bite into the cable properly.


----------



## Sevada88

So basically cutting it is the best way? Even if the cable gets a little shorter than the rest of the cables.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> Guys, how do you remove a crimp from the cable? Do you just cut it?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> So basically cutting it is the best way? Even if the cable gets a little shorter than the rest of the cables.


It's better to trim the cable lengths to match each other otherwise it looks messy. In fact if you go for the 'curved' effect you need to trim the wires on ones side to be shorter than the other to get a good even bend. Something like this



Lutro0's got some better examples in his *gallery*


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Do you mean the Molex pins for the 4 pin auxilliary/hard disk connector (the ATX male and female pins are also made by Molex)? The tool will crimp them but will gradually wear out the 'v' on the MDPC-X tool that produces the bite on the crimp so it's not really recommended.
> I use the blue handled 225D 'non-bite' crimping tool for these pins but you can fit the pins using needle nosed pliers to crimp them.
> 
> 
> 
> BE I'm so glad you reminded us of that! I had forgot and certainly don't want to screw up the MDPC crimper doing power pins. I will use my old crimper for that as it does a pretty fair job if I face the tabs into the crimp enclosure instead of toward the "teeth" on the tool.
Click to expand...

The 225D does a good crimp on both single and dual wires with the 4 pin molex type pin, maybe it's because the pin is bigger that it grips a lot better than the ATX pins.


----------



## mandrix

Might be. I had to make up two 3 pin "Y" to 4 pin connectors for my pumps to connect to my Lamptron FC9 last night and crimping 2 small gauge wires to the male power pins was doable but not pretty. It didn't want to bite into the wire insulation until I moved the crimp over to part of the crimper that normally would crimp the bare wire, if that makes sense to you. Anyway it passed the tug test but if it fails I'll just solder some 18 gauge wires together at a splice point and crimp just one wire at a time to the male molex pins like I've done before.


----------



## Aersol

Just did my first sleeving job the other day. I think it turned out pretty well


----------



## nawon72

Are these the correct peripheral power terminals:

02-06-2101

02-06-1101

*Edit:* If so, the 63811-1000 should crimp it perfectly.


----------



## InsideJob

Fun times ahead


----------



## mandrix

I've already sleeved my psu, but I decided to break down and buy some MDPC sleeving. The more I look at my build the less I like the blue and black sleeving. I'm going to try out black and white for a better overall match, I hope.
I already had a MDPC crimping tool on the way, so I figured why not go ahead and try some of Nils' sleeving and see if it's as good as 1000 satisfied customers say it is.








Anyway, MDPC sleeving and more ATX pins on the way. Haven't decided if I'm going to make up new cables or sleeve the old ones, so just in case.....


----------



## socketus

Say Mandrix - that's a Seasonic you're planning on sleeving. Best way is to make new cables, but I had mine made by a sleever, but I do know from reading that the Seasonic psu is a hard one to work with due to wiring criss-crossing, the pins that stick in the connectors .....

http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions

If you need help, its prolly been answered already in the Cables and Sleeving forum - do a search for seasonic in that forum, looking for posts. GL !!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Say Mandrix - that's a Seasonic you're planning on sleeving. Best way is to make new cables, but I had mine made by a sleever, but I do know from reading that the Seasonic psu is a hard one to work with due to wiring criss-crossing, the pins that stick in the connectors .....
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions
> If you need help, its prolly been answered already in the Cables and Sleeving forum - do a search for seasonic in that forum, looking for posts. GL !!


Yep, is what I did the first time I sleeved it. Believe me, I totally destroyed the connectors trying to get the pins out of the original cable! Had to buy a backup from Anton Electronics to tide me over until I got a new one fabbed and sleeved! I also had to buy new 20, 18, and 10 pin connectors since I ruined the original ones. I honestly don't know how anyone gets the pins out of the Seasonic connectors without breaking some wires, I broke quite a few and had to use staples since the depinning tool I used was worthless. I finally bought a Molex tool from Newark but even it has a hard time with the connectors.
This time around it should be easier sleeving since I ordered the MDPC crimper, I had a rough time with the one I originally bought.
Also got some white and black 18 gauge wire ordered off Ebay. Reminds me, I forgot to order connectors for power and SATA cables.


----------



## adi518

This has probably been answered a 1000 times but anyway...

If I use MDPC sleeving on my original 24-pin, will the wires be visible through the sleeving or is it dense enough? Because the wires are obviously in a variety of colors (red/orange/yellow/black etc').


----------



## Killbuzzjrad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> This has probably been answered a 1000 times but anyway...
> If I use MDPC sleeving on my original 24-pin, will the wires be visible through the sleeving or is it dense enough? Because the wires are obviously in a variety of colors (red/orange/yellow/black etc').


You have to pull the sleeving tight. If it's too loose you will see the wires.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> This has probably been answered a 1000 times but anyway...
> If I use MDPC sleeving on my original 24-pin, will the wires be visible through the sleeving or is it dense enough? Because the wires are obviously in a variety of colors (red/orange/yellow/black etc').


The alternative is to build your own wires from scratch .... painful, I'm sure but total control.


----------



## mandrix

Lutro0 has shown in one of his videos of why it's a good idea to match as best as possible your wire color to your sleeving if you are using for example white sleeving and dark wiring. Or you could wrap the wires with appropriately colored electrical tape (I haven't tried this but supposedly it works).
That's why I ordered white and black wiring to go with my white/black sleeve. Making up your own wiring is seriously not a big deal, just time consuming, especially for people like me with killer arthritis.
But I wouldn't let lack of matching wire colors stop me from sleeving. Any kind of decent sleeve looks better than the factory wraps to me.


----------



## adi518

It's like I thought then. I'll scratch make them. Will be fun, I hope.


----------



## Ragsters

How do you guys sleeve the 7th and 8th pin on the pci-e power connector for the Seasonic 650x?


----------



## adi518

I sleeved my first fan today.


















However, something weird happened... after shrinking the heatshrink near the pcb, the pcb started to move a bit. :|~

I think the fan is still functioning but the pcb was wobbling for a sec and a sec later re-permanent.


----------



## Furion92

Sounds like the pcb is/was glued to the plastic and the glue got soft because of the heat.
That's a pretty nice first fan sleeving job btw


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> Sounds like the pcb is/was glued to the plastic and the glue got soft because of the heat.
> That's a pretty nice first fan sleeving job btw


Ahh yes, it makes sense. It also seem to have leaked oil quite a bit when I removed the sticker, not sure if I should worry about it. I hope it will last. :\

Got major part of the goods I ordered:










Now I'm ready to get down to business...


----------



## aqualad

Sweet, love the organization. Looks like your about to sleeve everything in sight, have fun man....


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Ahh yes, it makes sense. It also seem to have leaked oil quite a bit when I removed the sticker, not sure if I should worry about it. I hope it will last. :\
> Got major part of the goods I ordered:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to get down to business...


Where did you find such a decked out sleeving kit!?


----------



## adi518

I bought everything separately, some stuff I found locally.


----------



## InsideJob

Ahhh, well you sir have an outstanding set of tools infront of you for getting a purdy sleeved set up going on


----------



## InsideJob

Compared to what I had going for me today... I got 7 wires sleeved before giving up and waiting for tomorrow when I can get myself a pin remover, as staples were not treating me well


----------



## adi518

Just get the tools. They're easy to use, the only tool taking time to get good at is the atx remover.









PS. I found a huge warehouse downtown mastering in screws, and I think I found the exact M3 screw sold by Nils. It wasn't dirt cheap too, only slightly. 40x M3x6mm (Allen head), 40x M3 locknuts and 40x washers to go with it, all for 11$.

Btw, can anyone recommend on an automatic wire stripper? I find them on ebay for 3$ up to 20-30$ but they all look the same.

I also got this tool yesterday:

Moddiy's "CNLX" SN-28B.










I bought it before finding someone's review on it, claiming the MDPC tool is still better. At least it cost a lot less than Nils's. Not sure if I should keep it or sell to get the MDPC crimper instead. :\

I need some help with figuring out the difference between Moddiy's "Gold-Plated ATX" and MDPC-X's oem ATX pin:

Moddiy:










MDPC-X:










I was a bit surprised MDPC's isn't gold lol.


----------



## Lutro0

Sadly, that crimper does hit the crimps a bit hard even on the lowest pressure setting. It will work however always has the tendency to crush the pin. I believe BE said you can forget about the 4pin molex pins with it as well.

As for the pins, the major difference with those non-oem pins and the Molex Brand (which nils sells) is the wings on bottom that latch onto the wire insulation. The longer wings allow it to bite and hold onto the wire a bit better and allow you to crimp a double wire if needed.

I have tried about 8 different non-oem pins and none of them have held up to the Molex ones.

The difference between gold plated and tin pins is negligible.


----------



## Tator Tot

Gold platting connectors is always about the corrosion aspect of the equation, never connection quality.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Ahh yes, it makes sense. It also seem to have leaked oil quite a bit when I removed the sticker, not sure if I should worry about it. I hope it will last. :\
> Got major part of the goods I ordered:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to get down to business...


I see you like those plastic bins like I do. I'm starting to get a quite a collection, but still need more! I use them for everything from screws, to water cooling fittings, to whatever else is small. I pick mine up at the local Wal Mart in the craft section.

On those fans, you can always lift the sticker and add a drop of oil. Sometimes it will even quieten down a noisy brand new fan. I just use 3-in-1 oil or my wife's sewing machine oil. Not to overdo it, though, or you end up with oil all over the fan after a while.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Sadly, that crimper does hit the crimps a bit hard even on the lowest pressure setting. It will work however always has the tendency to crush the pin. I believe BE said you can forget about the 4pin molex pins with it as well.
> As for the pins, the major difference with those non-oem pins and the Molex Brand (which nils sells) is the wings on bottom that latch onto the wire insulation. The longer wings allow it to bite and hold onto the wire a bit better and allow you to crimp a double wire if needed.
> I have tried about 8 different non-oem pins and none of them have held up to the Molex ones.
> The difference between gold plated and tin pins is negligible.


The non-oem pins you tried were all without long wings or did some have them? A bit hard to understand from the picture but it looks like the Moddiy pin has such long wings? Hmm, wait a sec, the Seasonic cable has double wires and they used these gold pins on it, that means that yes, it probably does have long wings. Question is, if there's a major difference between this long-wing non-oem pin and the original molex one.

About the 4-pin molex pins, why can't I crimp them with it?

Took this picture off moddiy's website, supposedly showing 7 types of pins that are crimp-able with the tool:









Maybe it only works good with the non-oem pins.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> The non-oem pins you tried were all without long wings or did some have them? A bit hard to understand from the picture but it looks like the Moddiy pin has such long wings? Hmm, wait a sec, the Seasonic cable has double wires and they used these gold pins on it, that means that yes, it probably does have long wings. Question is, if there's a major difference between this long-wing non-oem pin and the original molex one.
> About the 4-pin molex pins, why can't I crimp them with it?
> Took this picture off moddiy's website, supposedly showing 7 types of pins that are crimp-able with the tool:
> Maybe it only works good with the non-oem pins.


I am fairly certain the mod-diy pins are short winged. I have never come across a non molex pin that had the long wings for the atx pins. But that doesnt mean alot as there is most likely a ton out there.

Molex does make gold plated pins of the same type, infact they make a few types.

If you look at those crimps you can begin to see where the wire is being smashed by a half overlap and half bit crimp. The first one on the left gives you a good idea of the force being exerted on those pins and its bad crimp ontop of it.

The crimper can be used for small jobs, but I would be leary about using it on many jobs.

Here is an quick example of some crimps using molex crimps using from top to bottom (SN-28B Crimper, MDPC Crimper, Hans Long Crimper)



You will see the the SN-28B Crimper even on the lowest setting still crushes the top insulation and bites too deep into the wire.

The MDPC Crimper Gently bites the wire while keeping the integrity of the wire.

The Hands Long Overlap Crimper simply overlaps the wings.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> I bought everything separately, some stuff I found locally.


I bought some stuff and put this together today after seeing your kit


----------



## Futan

Just got my order from Nils. He sent a sample of his sleeve and heat shrink, and I gotta say next time, MDPC all the way. Very nice sleeve and heat shrink. It might just be because I've suffered through paracord but the aesthetics of normal sleeves has become much more attractive as well. lol.


----------



## mandrix

Got my crimper from Nils today and immediately tried it out on an ATX pin. All I can say is, what a freaking difference from the crimper I've been using. Absolutely perfect crimp out of the box. Neat that he sends crimp samples with the tool.
One less headache to worry about when sleeving, and the next time around I won't have to spend all that time trying to get good crimps. I'll just use my old crimper for molex power pins, etc and keep the MDPC crimper for ATX in good working form as long as possible.
Now if I can get just a little bit better/faster with shrinkless sleeving I'll have it licked.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I am fairly certain the mod-diy pins are short winged. I have never come across a non molex pin that had the long wings for the atx pins. But that doesnt mean alot as there is most likely a ton out there.
> Molex does make gold plated pins of the same type, infact they make a few types.
> If you look at those crimps you can begin to see where the wire is being smashed by a half overlap and half bit crimp. The first one on the left gives you a good idea of the force being exerted on those pins and its bad crimp ontop of it.
> The crimper can be used for small jobs, but I would be leary about using it on many jobs.
> Here is an quick example of some crimps using molex crimps using from top to bottom (SN-28B Crimper, MDPC Crimper, Hans Long Crimper)
> 
> You will see the the SN-28B Crimper even on the lowest setting still crushes the top insulation and bites too deep into the wire.
> The MDPC Crimper Gently bites the wire while keeping the integrity of the wire.
> The Hands Long Overlap Crimper simply overlaps the wings.


As usual, that was quite informative. I can see how the MDPC tool is clearly doing a better crimp. However, all of this isn't depending on how thick the insulation is?

Can you also relate to the molex power crimping?


----------



## InsideJob

I have begun sleeving the new PSU


----------



## ik0n

Just received my paracord and pin removal tool in the mail. Can't wait to dive in and practice sleeving. Been watching all of Lutro0's videos getting excited!

Here's a couple of teaser photos showing my color choices (Burgundy and Navy Blue from *all_outdoor_and_more*):

_To scale next to a penny._


_And a better shot with the texture more in focus._

I tried to make the colors as accurate as possible. They really are more beautiful in person than what appears in the ebay photos (no surprise!). I'm going to practice with some extension cables, then practice more in my old Antec SX1030B as soon as I can kick my wife off The Sims to do it.


----------



## jackeyjoe

ok... I am so happy I went with MDPC-X this time, the quality of Nils sleeving is absolutely amazing.


However, I have already run into a problem! Broken pins... I've broken three on my first cable because the force required to pull them out and break them is sorta similar







So basically, how do I get them out(with limited tools and also being able to use them again since I didn't get a crimper)? I have read it somewhere or watched a video on it but I can't find anything when it matters most


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackeyjoe*
> 
> ok... I am so happy I went with MDPC-X this time, the quality of Nils sleeving is absolutely amazing.
> 
> However, I have already run into a problem! Broken pins... I've broken three on my first cable because the force required to pull them out and break them is sorta similar
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So basically, how do I get them out(with limited tools and also being able to use them again since I didn't get a crimper)? I have read it somewhere or watched a video on it but I can't find anything when it matters most


I ran into a similar problem with pins, it is my first experience sleeving so I didn't expect any miracles but geez. Those sleeving guys must develop some darn handy tricks to do this all the time. My fingers are sore and bloody after a 24 pin an 8 pin, the 6 pin and other various randoms will have to wait for tomorrow. Anyways, I noticed that it's quite random with how easily a pin will come out or not. Some came out with little force, some were a pain in the toosh and the one I broke had the crimp itself give out before the pin did. I don't have extra pins or wiring equipment so I took an old pin off my old PSU and stripped the wire, then proceeded to re attach the pin and short piece of wire from the old PSU to the pin-less wire left over from the new one with a simple twist and tape. Turned on the PC and it worked just fine and you don't notice what-so-ever with the sleeving. I was using flattened paper clips slightly grinded to be skinny and thin enough to use. Not sure now much more effective the tools you can get are considering I hear they break pretty easily. Those are my sleeving experiences, all of today









The results are 2 posts above your post


----------



## InsideJob

Here I will re-post the picture bigger and rotated.



^ I love how I voided the warranty within 5 minutes of opening it









And here's some pics of it installed, the GPU cable and a few other little things will get done tomorrow. I need to make myself some more of my homemade pin remover tools (opened up paper clip, flattened with a hammer and grinded down to be skinny enough to use) which has to wait, and my fingers don't mind


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackeyjoe*
> 
> ok... I am so happy I went with MDPC-X this time, the quality of Nils sleeving is absolutely amazing.
> However, I have already run into a problem! Broken pins... I've broken three on my first cable because the force required to pull them out and break them is sorta similar
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So basically, how do I get them out(with limited tools and also being able to use them again since I didn't get a crimper)? I have read it somewhere or watched a video on it but I can't find anything when it matters most


Jackie, if you have a womens bobby pin laying around snip it off at one side so the the straight side is all you have and then grab a vice grip and clamp it down so that some of it is sticking out. (you may need to test it to find the right length)

Take the tool and put the vicegrip with the bobby pin on each side of the pin. Press firmly but not too much as it can and will go right through the connector (at least I have done it)

Once you do that to both sides of the pin you should be able to just pop it out.


----------



## markrobbo96

I've ordered white paracord and heatshrink, but I want to sleeve extensions first so that if I screw up I won't ruin my power supply.

I have been looking into some options and these startech cables seem to be a good price and a decent length:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000FL60AI
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000M802RG
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004ZMYBAE

Is there any reason I shouldn't be buying these? Just making sure I don't regret my purchases if they turn out to be of a poor quality or have a reputation. Any other suggestions would be very much appreciated


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markrobbo96*
> 
> I've ordered white paracord and heatshrink, but I want to sleeve extensions first so that if I screw up I won't ruin my power supply.
> I have been looking into some options and these startech cables seem to be a good price and a decent length:
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000FL60AI
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000M802RG
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004ZMYBAE
> Is there any reason I shouldn't be buying these? Just making sure I don't regret my purchases if they turn out to be of a poor quality or have a reputation. Any other suggestions would be very much appreciated


A lot of those generic extensions have 20AWG wire instead of the recommended 18AWG.


----------



## markrobbo96

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> A lot of those generic extensions have 20AWG wire instead of the recommended 18AWG.


Are there any decent extensions I can buy which are of a reasonable price? Obviously if I am going to end up paying quite a bit for extensions, once I factor in a couple of black connectors etc I may as well buy a BitFenix set.


----------



## InsideJob

Update, pretty well done. Gotta wait til next week to continue though as I ran out of heat shrink


----------



## Evilsplashy

I sleeved my psu red/black/white. I have an annoyance. What is the best way to keep the colors in line. Like red, black, white, red, black, white..etc. It keeps getting tangled and it doesn't look as good as I want it too.

I want it like this. Lutro0 does it great.


It's mostly the 6pin cables, since my GTX 680 takes two of them. The 24pin and CPU isn't as hard to get them in line. Anyone have pictures of ways to run the 6pins? I just have them literally tangled together.


----------



## socketus

If its a seasonic, then the tangled wires .... the way they connect from psu to connector, can be the problem. I've seen solutions where people are zip tieing - using banded wrap - maybe doing 2 cables together. I had my cables sleeved by a pro - the 24pin didn't come out like I thought, partly because its a Seasonic, and partly because the case's grommet is above the 24 pin, so the sleeving comes off looking like an arc streaming to the connector, and it loses the effect of showing the 12 upper cables. However, the 8 pin/6pin - the guy made a shorter run so that cabling comes up in a bend to the video card, instead of running behind the mobo and out. Plus I had the card on the lower slot, to show off the Asus logo, and I thot it looked better spaced out from the cpu/heatsink - but the slot died, and I moved the card back to the #1 slot, and now the cabling has a longer space to reach, straitening the cable out. That way the pattern shows off better.

I know, horrible cell fone pix, but here it is


----------



## wlw wl

Evilsplashy - the cable must be good quality, the sleeve must be good quality and stretched as much as possible. If it's done well, the sleeve will rub against the cable (friction) and it will cause the sleeved cable to stay in the shape you bend it into. Also one row of cables (the inner row when they form an arc) in the connector has to be made shorter than the other, that's also what Lutro0 does


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Evilsplashy - the cable must be good quality, the sleeve must be good quality and stretched as much as possible. If it's done well, the sleeve will rub against the cable (friction) and it will cause the sleeved cable to stay in the shape you bend it into. Also one row of cables (the inner row when they form an arc) in the connector has to be made shorter than the other, that's also what Lutro0 does


You would be correct sir. It takes a bit more planning out when you do it on a full psu, but its all the same setup.


----------



## wlw wl

I'm just saying what you taught me


----------



## adi518

Finished sleeving the front panel of my new r4:










I also decided to do something I don't think I've seen anyone else on OCN do.









I took the ugly usb 3 cable, removed the casing (didn't not remove any of the filters), put sleeve and heatshrink on, and tomorrow I'll be soldering it to a new usb 3 connector.

Phew, this took me nearly 8 hours to make.

Also sleeved a proper sata cable that came with my Gigabyte board:










Opened a case mod log:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1305945/rebuilding-of-system-in-the-define-r4/0_30#post_18158128

From today, sleeved my r4 fan controller:










I think it turned out really nice.


----------



## Sevada88

Guys I am hoping someone can help me with this as I am still not sure if I get it right.

I know the 24 pin connector that goes into the motherboard uses a specific pinout, but does the connector that goes into the PSU, use a specific pinout as well? Or is it different for every PSU?

I want my 24 pin to look like this


----------



## socketus

Its the other way around - the 24pin on the mobo is universal - standard. Its the psu side connector that is specific to the psu.
Seasonic splits it into 2 - a 10pin and an 18 pin.

Those "rainbow" extensions - they're specifically constructed so that they do HAVE that arc. But its an extension - it plugs into your existing 24pin.
There are several techniques to make a loop resemble a rainbow extension - ties on 2 or 3 cables, training the cables to bend to a loop, whatever you can come up with.


----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Its the other way around - the 24pin on the mobo is universal - standard. Its the psu side connector that is specific to the psu.
> Seasonic splits it into 2 - a 10pin and an 18 pin.
> Those "rainbow" extensions - they're specifically constructed so that they do HAVE that arc. But its an extension - it plugs into your existing 24pin.
> There are several techniques to make a loop resemble a rainbow extension - ties on 2 or 3 cables, training the cables to bend to a loop, whatever you can come up with.


Right, right, that makes sense. Thanks!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Finished sleeving the front panel of my new r4:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also decided to do something I don't think I've seen anyone else on OCN do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took the ugly usb 3 cable, removed the casing (didn't not remove any of the filters), put sleeve and heatshrink on, and tomorrow I'll be soldering it to a new usb 3 connector.
> Phew, this took me nearly 8 hours to make.
> Also sleeved a proper sata cable that came with my Gigabyte board:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Opened a case mod log:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1305945/rebuilding-of-system-in-the-define-r4/0_30#post_18158128
> From today, sleeved my r4 fan controller:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it turned out really nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I have to admit, I've never seen anyone use yellow shrink before like that. I'm still thinking about that, but as long as you like it that's all that counts! Anyway looks like you are well on your way. Be sure and show us the USB 3.0 when you finish.


----------



## adi518




----------



## Sevada88

Hye guys, my double wires are not the same; one is thinner. Just out of curiosity, why is this?


----------



## wlw wl

Because one of them - the thinner one - is just a voltage sensing wire, while the thick one is the one that actually delivers the current.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


WoW! thats a unique color combo I haven't seen before. stunner really. Looks like you've got your shrink all lined up, too !! good job


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> WoW! thats a unique color combo I haven't seen before. stunner really. Looks like you've got your shrink all lined up, too !! good job


That ain't mine. He said he never saw someone use yellow shrinks so I showed him a pic of someone who used them on his psu sleeving. However, I did take some inspiration off that picture. Check my case log in the next couple of weeks for sleeving updates.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> That ain't mine. He said he never saw someone use yellow shrinks so I showed him a pic of someone who used them on his psu sleeving. However, I did take some inspiration off that picture. Check my case log in the next couple of weeks for sleeving updates.


Ok, I'll be looking for your log. How about a link to the pic you posted ? thanks


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> Hye guys, my double wires are not the same; one is thinner. Just out of curiosity, why is this?


are you sleeving the double wires?


----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> are you sleeving the double wires?


Yes, I will be using the "double wire method".


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Ok, I'll be looking for your log. How about a link to the pic you posted ? thanks


http://www.abload.de/img/dsc00604ruyb1.jpg

Link to log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1305945/rebuilding-of-system-in-the-define-r4/0_30#post_18158128

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> Yes, I will be using the "double wire method".


Watch Lutro's tutorial for double wires and sleeving them.


----------



## adi518

double post


----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Watch Lutro's tutorial for double wires and sleeving them.


Already did and I sleeved one of the 5 double wires.









It doesn't look as good as Lutr0's but as a first-time-sleever, I think it's good enough. Also, it will be in the back, hidden behind all the other sleeved wires. I am not too worried about that.


----------



## adi518

Try several times until you nail it.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> http://www.abload.de/img/dsc00604ruyb1.jpg
> Link to log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1305945/rebuilding-of-system-in-the-define-r4/0_30#post_18158128
> Watch Lutro's tutorial for double wires and sleeving them.


Thanks, but I was hoping that the yellow/black/white sleeving pic was hooked upto a forum, maybe other pics of the guy's build. Yah, your log is coming along nicely, you've got the skills and determination, fo sho !


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> That ain't mine. He said he never saw someone use yellow shrinks so I showed him a pic of someone who used them on his psu sleeving. However, I did take some inspiration off that picture. Check my case log in the next couple of weeks for sleeving updates.


I just meant yellow shrink on white wires. Nothing wrong with it if you like it. Just stands out a bit to me, that's my personal thing and not a criticism. Although if it were on a 24 pin might look great, IDK.


----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Because one of them - the thinner one - is just a voltage sensing wire, while the thick one is the one that actually delivers the current.


Another thing, I am assuming that the color and the thickness of the wire don't serve a specific purpose other than identification (i.e. which wires goes where). If I happen to replace the thin wires with normal thick wires, of a different color, it wouldn't make any difference, right?


----------



## wlw wl

The color of the insulation won't matter, if you connect it right. As for the gauge, I'm not 100% sure, the voltage sensing wire might have a specific resistance, and each gauge has a different resistance per meter, so I'd suppose if you change the gauge of the sensing wire, the voltage might change slightly, but if that difference would be noticeable at all, I'm not sure but I don't think so.


----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> The color of the insulation won't matter, if you connect it right. As for the gauge, I'm not 100% sure, the voltage sensing wire might have a specific resistance, and each gauge has a different resistance per meter, so I'd suppose if you change the gauge of the sensing wire, the voltage might change slightly, but if that difference would be noticeable at all, I'm not sure but I don't think so.


So how does it work with extensions? Do extensions use different gauge wires or are all the wires the same? Assuming the wires are all the same, it shouldn't be a problem then.


----------



## wlw wl

You don't extend the V-sense wire.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Because one of them - the thinner one - is just a voltage sensing wire, while the thick one is the one that actually delivers the current.


With voltage does it sense? 12V?


----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> You don't extend the V-sense wire.


What about the PS_ON, +5Vsb and the P.G. wires?

EDIT: just to clarify, these are single wires, not double.


----------



## Tator Tot

You want all of those wires to be 18 AWG.

Most of the time, those wires are just 18 AWG. Sometimes they'll make the 5vSB 16 AWG.


----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*
> 
> You want all of those wires to be 18 AWG.
> 
> Most of the time, those wires are just 18 AWG. Sometimes they'll make the 5vSB 16 AWG.


I can do that, no problem. However, Seasonic uses AWG 22s for those. What's the reason for that? I don't suppose it's for saving costs, is it?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> I can do that, no problem. However, Seasonic uses AWG 22s for those. What's the reason for that? I don't suppose it's for saving costs, is it?


Most brands use 22 AWG on those wires, but most extensions use 18 AWG across the board.

At the end of the day, for someone making a cable; the difference in price for 18 AWG versus a foot or two of 22 AWG isn't great enough (or worth the hassle) when you can get wire in bulk for so cheap.

Most brands use 22 AWG for those wires since they can buy in the bulk for it to be cost saving and those wires do not need to carry really any current and hardly any voltage.


----------



## wlw wl

Look, the Vsense wire and the actual "current-handling" wire that the voltage is sensed on form a V connection, they have a common point in the 24-pin connector, but go to different spots in the PSU.
Now if you use an extension, you make an Y from that V - the sense wire will still end at that same connector, you'll just extend the "current-handling" wire. So the voltage measurement will be taken not from the end of the extension which plugs into MoBo, but from that original connector where the Vsense wire ends. That's why I said that you don't extend the Vsense wire, you make an Y from a V connection, I hope you understand that now.
The Vsense wire is like a voltmeter probe, where it ends (connects to the thick wire) is where the sensing takes place.
So an extension is just a 1:1 connection on every pin, you don't care if there are 0, 2, 3 or 15 wires hooked to a single pin in the original connector and you don't care what they are (+12V, PG, +5VSB), you just make them all 18 AWG 1:1.


----------



## Alex England

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id*
> 
> Thanks, man. I wanted something a little different. My sata cables are sleeved with that too and I dig the way it looks.
> Installed update:


Hi,

I'm looking at doing this myself, rather than the individual. Does anybody know what size sleeving to buy? Also, does anybody think I can use the 'heatsinkless' method?


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex England*
> 
> Hi,
> I'm looking at doing this myself, rather than the individual. Does anybody know what size sleeving to buy? Also, does anybody think I can use the 'heatsinkless' method?


Sata size sleeving. I don't think you can apply the shrink-less method on it because the sleeve is too big. He used shrinks and I think it looks fine.


----------



## Alex England

Thanks for the reply. I really don't want to go with a heatshrink, so I'll probably tinker. I've not taken one apart yet, so I'm unsure as to whether or not each sleeve has to tuck into its own little 'tunnel'. That would totally blow it out of the water.


----------



## socketus

The shrink can fit like a glove over the connector - like this - I didn't sleeve this, so I dunno what the sleeve/connector looks like.


----------



## Sevada88

I had my Sata data cables sleeved, though I decided to remove them because it just doesn't look good with the heatshrink and it's too thick. Simple, black Sata cables look better than sleeved ones. It's also easier to route them through the back. Just my thoughts on that.


----------



## Forsaken_id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex England*
> 
> Hi,
> I'm looking at doing this myself, rather than the individual. Does anybody know what size sleeving to buy? Also, does anybody think I can use the 'heatsinkless' method?


PM'd ya back, but for everyone else as well:

It is 3/8" Ogre Techflex. It is only a tight, multiweave with the larger sizes like 3/8"s and up.

The 3/8" matches the sata sleeve size from MDPC. To my knowledge, there isn't any other colors with black from them. Black with any of the other colors would be great.

http://www.techflex.com/prod_PET.asp then click the colors tab.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Sata size sleeving. I don't think you can apply the shrink-less method on it because the sleeve is too big. He used shrinks and I think it looks fine.


Thanks.

--Rome


----------



## Alex England

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> I had my Sata data cables sleeved, though I decided to remove them because it just doesn't look good with the heatshrink and it's too thick. Simple, black Sata cables look better than sleeved ones. It's also easier to route them through the back. Just my thoughts on that.


Have you seen the BitFenix sata cables? I'm not a big fan of the cables in general, but the sata cables are nice as they have the sleeving going straight into the plastic housing.










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forsaken_id*
> 
> PM'd ya back, but for everyone else as well:
> It is 3/8" Ogre Techflex. It is only a tight, multiweave with the larger sizes like 3/8"s and up.
> The 3/8" matches the sata sleeve size from MDPC. To my knowledge, there isn't any other colors with black from them. Black with any of the other colors would be great.
> http://www.techflex.com/prod_PET.asp then click the colors tab.
> Thanks.
> --Rome


Thanks, Rome. Really helpful. I'm going to have to remove a little bit of plastic, but I'm going to experiment with making one without a heatshrink. I've very little better to do.


----------



## Furion92

The problem (at least for me) with the bitfenix sata cables is their length. They're only 30cm...


----------



## mandrix

Anyone else tried the Akasa Pro Slim sata cables? In one of these threads Big Elf linked to cpachris's build for a quick tutorial. You can buy them 50cm then remove one of the connectors, cut the ribbon cable with scissors to any length you need, sleeve them, reattach the connector, then heat the shrink to set the sleeving. You can use the small MDPC sleeving and 1/4" shrink since there's no need to wrap the shrink onto the connector.
The connectors are crimp style. You have to be very careful with them, I managed to destroy one of the connectors when the little "teeth" that bite into the cable bent.

Even if you don't sleeve them they are pretty cool, very small and thin.


----------



## adi518

I wanna get one of these proslim cables but its 15$ on the bay :/


----------



## Furion92

@mandrix: I bought them and cut them to length. Was pretty easy







Although I destroyed the first one^^


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> I wanna get one of these proslim cables but its 15$ on the bay :/


Cost too much for shipping from frozencpu or other places?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> @mandrix: I bought them and cut them to length. Was pretty easy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although I destroyed the first one^^


Yeah if you don't have it lined up when you recrimp it, pretty easy to destroy it. The day I did it I was all thumbs for some reason, and I actually messed up two cables, but I went back and was able to salvage one of them. Ah well, learning experience.


----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex England*
> 
> Have you seen the BitFenix sata cables? I'm not a big fan of the cables in general, but the sata cables are nice as they have the sleeving going straight into the plastic housing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, Rome. Really helpful. I'm going to have to remove a little bit of plastic, but I'm going to experiment with making one without a heatshrink. I've very little better to do.


Well the dude wanted to do the cables himself, not buy from Betfenix. If you do it yourself, you can't have the cables looking like that. You will have to use heatshrink.


----------



## Alex England

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> Well the dude wanted to do the cables himself, not buy from Betfenix. If you do it yourself, you can't have the cables looking like that. You will have to use heatshrink.


I was replying to your situation: You removed it because you didn't like the heatshrink, so I thought I'd throw them out there.


----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex England*
> 
> I was replying to your situation: You removed it because you didn't like the heatshrink, so I thought I'd throw them out there.


I still like them without sleeves


----------



## drummer4261900

OK so how do you get the pins back in once you have taken them out? I took one out and now its only going back in a little bit. Is there some way I need to turn it for it to go back in?

Thanks!


----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drummer4261900*
> 
> OK so how do you get the pins back in once you have taken them out? I took one out and now its only going back in a little bit. Is there some way I need to turn it for it to go back in?
> Thanks!


What do you mean? Did you sleeve the cable and it's not going in now?


----------



## drummer4261900

I am not doing anything with sleeves. I was trying to make sure before I started the buying stuff that I could get the pins in and out. So I took a pin out and now it won't go back in. It's only going about half way into the hole.

Thanks!


----------



## Sevada88

No idea what you are doing wrong. Is it in the right place? Are you sure it's the right way up?

Some photos would help a lot.


----------



## Furion92

Make sure that you're trying to insert the pin horizontally, not vertically.


----------



## drummer4261900

I actually just got it to go all the way in. I just had to use some pliers.

Thanks for the quick reply!


----------



## Buzzin92

Think I'll be ordering 1000' ft of white paracord soon, if this 15ft sample I've got turns out alright.









Will be sleeving everything on my next project, Heat shrink-less too (apart from Sata and audio/usb)


----------



## Hamy144

Shrinkless paracord for Project Skeeb




I ended up getting the £6 tool and it works just fine no problems for me


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzzin92*
> 
> Think I'll be ordering 1000' ft of white paracord soon, if this 15ft sample I've got turns out alright.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be sleeving everything on my next project, Heat shrink-less too (apart from Sata and audio/usb)


Just to note, I highly doubt you will need 1000ft as I ordered 200ft and sleeved a 24pin 8pin and 2 6pins with a decent amount to spare.


----------



## Buzzin92

I will be doing my server, and my fathers computer for christmas time, just to note.









Forgot to mention that part...


----------



## Snyderman34

I've decided I'm going to sleeve my cables myself. Just want to make sure this sleeve is fine.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8-BRAIDED-NYLON-SLEEVING-audio-TECHFLEX-25-ft-/360217197985?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtr&hash=item53de9e3da1

It's the Nylon type, and from what I've read should be a better one. It'll be used with 4:1 heatshrink and I'm looking for a pin removal tool. Thanks!


----------



## Hartk1213

hey i have a question...does anyone know how or if its possible to sleeve the tubes on an h50 or at least make them a different color with out taking it apart


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hartk1213*
> 
> hey i have a question...does anyone know how or if its possible to sleeve the tubes on an h50 or at least make them a different color with out taking it apart


Get some larger watercooling tubing in the colour you want and cut it down the middle and wrap it around the tubes


----------



## beta bull3t

hope to get some paracord in olive green for my inwin commander II SOON GONA BEMY FIRST para cord job i will be watching lustro a lot lol also mads perschke


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beta bull3t*
> 
> hope to get some paracord in olive green for my inwin commander II SOON GONA BEMY FIRST para cord job i will be watching lustro a lot lol also mads perschke


I always think that a good mix of two or three colours looks much better than just one solid colour.


----------



## beta bull3t

in the past i have also . mainly red and black combos but i been wanting to do a single color one for some time think the military one in para wil be the one


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beta bull3t*
> 
> i will be watching lustro a lot lol


----------



## Pongo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evilsplashy*
> 
> I sleeved my psu red/black/white. I have an annoyance. What is the best way to keep the colors in line. Like red, black, white, red, black, white..etc. It keeps getting tangled and it doesn't look as good as I want it too.
> I want it like this. Lutro0 does it great.
> 
> It's mostly the 6pin cables, since my GTX 680 takes two of them. The 24pin and CPU isn't as hard to get them in line. Anyone have pictures of ways to run the 6pins? I just have them literally tangled together.


One way to get the wires to stay in a neat line is to sew them together like this:



Checkout my tutorial and build log in my sig for more information.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,


----------



## Hamy144

Finished my 24pin today, sky blue and dark grey 550 paracord.


----------



## Buzzin92

My 15ft white sample arrived today, gonna quickly sleeve a molex and see what it looks like.

Might mix in a contrast colour, not sure what to have. Maybe light/sky blue, but can't seem to find stock of it.


----------



## adi518

I'm going to do some sewing as well. It's that extra touch you can give your sleeving to make it super perfect!


----------



## Hartk1213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Get some larger watercooling tubing in the colour you want and cut it down the middle and wrap it around the tubes


Omg i never even thought of that....that is such a good idea thank you







+rep


----------



## WebsterXC

Sleeved some of my AX1200 today for my current military build. MDPC's new color: Commando Green.


----------



## InsideJob

^ nice


----------



## beta bull3t

oooo im well jealous this is just wat i want nice going


----------



## 350 Malibu

Did some sleeving today after being inspired by LutroO Guides... Learned a lot with trial and error. Sorry in advance for the crappy images.

First I tried some cheaper Flexo-Pet, didn't turn out terrible , but not as nice as I wanted.



Then went to the MDPC after watching some more LutroO guides. I hate the heat shrink, pain in the butt to work with.




Then I went the shrinkless method, and boy does it look 100x better... Good thing I have some good calluses on my fingers, because it's hot as hell to work with.













Final thought, does anyone know if the ferrite's around the PCIe Power cables are required or if they are safe to remove?


----------



## wlw wl

Removing the ferrites might make your PSU or GPUs start buzzing (or coil whine).


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Removing the ferrites might make your PSU or GPUs start buzzing (or coil whine).


Thanks for the info...


----------



## protzman

ppl that have ordered mdpcx and live in USA, what does it come to your house via? usps, ups, fedex, ect..
and how long was shipping? I ordered like last wed or so so im thinking it will be here soon


----------



## Pongo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> ppl that have ordered mdpcx and live in USA, what does it come to your house via? usps, ups, fedex, ect..
> and how long was shipping? I ordered like last wed or so so im thinking it will be here soon


Mine was delivered by registered mail from the US Post Office. It took about a week to Texas.

Cheers,


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> ppl that have ordered mdpcx and live in USA, what does it come to your house via? usps, ups, fedex, ect..
> and how long was shipping? I ordered like last wed or so so im thinking it will be here soon


Mine took about two weeks. It all depends how US Customs is feeling that day.


----------



## ixsis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> ppl that have ordered mdpcx and live in USA, what does it come to your house via? usps, ups, fedex, ect..
> and how long was shipping? I ordered like last wed or so so im thinking it will be here soon


I ordered a crimper on 9/20 and the mail person left the pickup notice yesterday so I will pick it up from the post office this afternoon in Texas.


----------



## protzman

thanks for the replies guys!


----------



## InsideJob

Another pic of my paracord job that's nearly complete


----------



## beta bull3t

hey guys i got my paracord samples in today

thats olive green and red n black 15ft my first


----------



## tig33r

Hi! I'm Alex, I love what you doing here guys. All of you!

This is my first post here, sorry for my bad english









Here's my little work, i'm a noobie in this, it's first time when i make something like this. Soooo try not to throw with stones







)


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beta bull3t*
> 
> hey guys i got my paracord samples in today
> 
> thats olive green and red n black 15ft my first


I'm going to be following the C70 build for sure







Just to note, your link to the build log in your sig is a little messed up!







Might wanna fix it


----------



## beta bull3t

thanks for the heads up bud


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tig33r*
> 
> Hi! I'm Alex, I love what you doing here guys. All of you!
> This is my first post here, sorry for my bad english
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my little work, i'm a noobie in this, it's first time when i make something like this. Soooo try not to throw with stones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Wow excellent work! That doesn't look like a newbie at all! From what I can see it's paracord, correct?

Amazing work lining up all your shrink. Those look fantastic.


----------



## tig33r

Yes, it's paracord.
Now i need a heat-gun, on some heat-shrink it remain some traces from burn.
Thanks for appreciation!


----------



## protzman

still waiting on sleeving -___-
hoping today will be the day... ordered mdpc-x on the 26th


----------



## KaRLiToS

....


----------



## Lutro0




----------



## WebsterXC

Not really a fan of 4-color themes, but that looks very very nice. As always, the photography rustles my jimmies


----------



## Sevada88

Hey, do you maybe have an example of black and yellow?


----------



## Lutro0




----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


Excellent and very sexy!


----------



## WiSK

Oh hi







Lutro0 do you have the new aquamarine mk2? Would like to see it in combination with white and b-magic.


----------



## Buzzin92

What color sleeving would you think goes best with white?


----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzzin92*
> 
> What color sleeving would you think goes best with white?


Black and blue I think.


----------



## Buzzin92

Hmm black would probably fit best with the theme of the project I'm doing.

Thanks!


----------



## protzman

Finally got my tool today so i tried to start sleeving and after few tries i got a wire sleeved really neatly. but im having HUGE problems trying to get the pin back in the connector. Anyone have any tips for this situation? Like i can stuff it in there and it will go maybe halfway back to the correct position and i just cant seem to shove it any further!

Tips tips tips, i didn't buy all this crap for me to not be able to sleeve it -____-

thanks in advance


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Finally got my tool today so i tried to start sleeving and after few tries i got a wire sleeved really neatly. but im having HUGE problems trying to get the pin back in the connector. Anyone have any tips for this situation? Like i can stuff it in there and it will go maybe halfway back to the correct position and i just cant seem to shove it any further!
> Tips tips tips, i didn't buy all this crap for me to not be able to sleeve it -____-
> thanks in advance


Heatshrinkless or no?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Finally got my tool today so i tried to start sleeving and after few tries i got a wire sleeved really neatly. but im having HUGE problems trying to get the pin back in the connector. Anyone have any tips for this situation? Like i can stuff it in there and it will go maybe halfway back to the correct position and i just cant seem to shove it any further!
> Tips tips tips, i didn't buy all this crap for me to not be able to sleeve it -____-
> thanks in advance


If heatshrinkless method then it could simply be that your wire is too big.

If heatshrink method then your sleeve shouldn't go into the connector, only the heatshrink should. There are some nice pictures in the first post of Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions. Make sure you've read all that


----------



## mandrix

If heat shrinkless try inserting the pin while the sleeve is still warm. I have trouble with one once in a while and have to redo it. Seems like some connectors won't tolerate the sleeve being very far forward of the rear wings. Or you could taper it more by heating a larger section of the sleeve while the shrink is still on it.
If using the heat shrink method I don't know since I don't do that.


----------



## KaRLiToS

My tip for heatshrinkless

When the sleeve/paracord is hot and melting, I use my fingers to put the end of the sleeve in a cone shape. (I tap it quickly not to burn myself). Then while it's still hot, I put the wire in the correct connector hole right away.

For me, heatshrinkless method is better because it does a cleaner job. And the job is done much quicker. (No need to cut heatshrink and pay attention to the lenght of them)

BUT, I can say your fingers get a little more sore.


----------



## protzman

no i was using heatshrink, and i looked/ read all the pics. an even watched the videos







i have mdpc and the precut heatshrink too!


----------



## WiSK

Can you take a photo of one of your sleeved wires so we might be able to see how it looks?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> no i was using heatshrink, and i looked/ read all the pics. an even watched the videos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have mdpc and the precut heatshrink too!


If you are sure you are putting the shrink in the proper place, the key is making sure you insert the cable the correct way, with the little tabs facing the right way in the connector. (I don't actually remember what way exactly, but I believe the pins go back in the connector with the tabs facing the same direction as the plastic tab on the connector, if that makes sense.). Another key thing to remember is to try and do it while the heatshrink is still hot. Not full blown hot, but still malleable enough to fit easily enough inside the connector. It should be a fairly quick movement from shrinking the shrink, and then inserting the wire into the connector.

If perhaps you are placing the shrink too far down on the metal pin, that would definitely cause it to not fit properly. As WiSK suggested, a pic of a sleeved wire might help us pin down the issue.


----------



## jackeyjoe

Hi guys, have a question for any of you that know about/have sleeved a SS strider PSU(as far as I know there is no difference between the models), I have just completed sleeving my 850w and I can't seem to get anything out of it and the PSU is making a very very quiet clicking noise when the 24 pin is connected(haven't touched the power button and I've got no lights on the mobo so I don't think I've killed anything). Now, firstly, I have sleeved everything 1:1, I checked before I started and I'm 99.9% sure this is correct but I thought I'd better ask to make absolutely sure. Secondly, there was a crossover wire on the 24 pin(empty space to a 3.3v connector) using a smaller cable, I just cut it off and sleeved without it because it was a serious annoyance for my colour scheme and I couldn't see how it would made a difference(it would only provide a little more current, especially with the smaller wire). Was I wrong in doing that?

Thanks for any help in advance, I really need to get a secondary rig set up for cases like this









Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackeyjoe*
> 
> Hi guys, have a question for any of you that know about/have sleeved a SS strider PSU(as far as I know there is no difference between the models), I have just completed sleeving my 850w and I can't seem to get anything out of it and the PSU is making a very very quiet clicking noise when the 24 pin is connected(haven't touched the power button and I've got no lights on the mobo so I don't think I've killed anything). Now, firstly, I have sleeved everything 1:1, I checked before I started and I'm 99.9% sure this is correct but I thought I'd better ask to make absolutely sure. Secondly, there was a crossover wire on the 24 pin(empty space to a 3.3v connector) using a smaller cable, I just cut it off and sleeved without it because it was a serious annoyance for my colour scheme and I couldn't see how it would made a difference(it would only provide a little more current, especially with the smaller wire). Was I wrong in doing that?
> Thanks for any help in advance, I really need to get a secondary rig set up for cases like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


A cheap PSU tester is probably the best insurance against mistakes when depinning and sleeving.

The 3.3V wire (pin 13 to pin 20 right?) is a sense wire and helps the PSU correct voltage at load. PSU will work without it, but could result in very minor over-/under-voltage. Still should be within 5% error margin without that wire. Check Lutro0's double wire video guide for a good way to deal with this.


----------



## jackeyjoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> A cheap PSU tester is probably the best insurance against mistakes when depinning and sleeving.
> The 3.3V wire (pin 13 to pin 20 right?) is a sense wire and helps the PSU correct voltage at load. PSU will work without it, but could result in very minor over-/under-voltage. Still should be within 5% error margin without that wire. Check Lutro0's double wire video guide for a good way to deal with this.


I believe that,s right... so it isn't necessary for operation of the PSU? Hrm... I wonder what's wrong then, if everything is indeed 1:1 then everything should be working(there is no way any wires are mixed up considering the number of times I've checked), I wonder why I can't get anything out of it


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackeyjoe*
> 
> I believe that,s right... so it isn't necessary for operation of the PSU? Hrm... I wonder what's wrong then, if everything is indeed 1:1 then everything should be working(there is no way any wires are mixed up considering the number of times I've checked), I wonder why I can't get anything out of it


Jackie, did you just sleeve the wires or did you make new ones. Also are all of the wires pushed in all the way (check the ends to make sure they all look even)

The pinout for striders is more like a 1-12. Meaning they dont go straight across, but if you have been looking at the pinout then you should be fine on that front.

Have you checked the 8pin eps cable and the others that are connected as well? I would double check to make sure you have those right as well.


----------



## Tator Tot

The 3.3v sense wire is required.

When you remove it from a unit, you get very poor voltage regulation. An example of this would be the Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid vs SIlent Pro Gold.

Same units internally, but the sense wire is missing on the Hybrid model due to it being fully modular and the 3.3v rail dips by 4% while the Gold only dips by 2.5%.


----------



## jackeyjoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Jackie, did you just sleeve the wires or did you make new ones. Also are all of the wires pushed in all the way (check the ends to make sure they all look even)
> The pinout for striders is more like a 1-12. Meaning they dont go straight across, but if you have been looking at the pinout then you should be fine on that front.
> Have you checked the 8pin eps cable and the others that are connected as well? I would double check to make sure you have those right as well.


Firstly, sleeved the wires that came with it(I couldn't afford to crimp new cables), they are all in properly and I am 99% sure none are damaged.

What do you mean by this? I've connected them like an extension(but instead of a female connector there is a male connector for the PSU, which I thought was right from when i checked before I started), do you mean that the pin layout is essentially the same on both sides(right now it's a mirror image on the PSU end).

I was using the EPS cable yesterday(already sleeved) with unsleeved cables, so it definitely couldn't be it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*
> 
> The 3.3v sense wire is required.
> 
> When you remove it from a unit, you get very poor voltage regulation. An example of this would be the Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid vs SIlent Pro Gold.
> Same units internally, but the sense wire is missing on the Hybrid model due to it being fully modular and the 3.3v rail dips by 4% while the Gold only dips by 2.5%.


Alrighty then, I might have to do some soldering so it doesn't mess with my colour scheme... silly me, will I be able to boot without it?

Thanks for the help guys, it seems I definitely need it


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackeyjoe*
> 
> right now it's a mirror image on the PSU end.


Should be like this. But then with pin 20 PSU side spliced into pin 13 M/B side?


This is the ATX24 from short cable set which is compatible with all modular striders. Corresponds with the pinout above.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackeyjoe*
> Alrighty then, I might have to do some soldering so it doesn't mess with my colour scheme... silly me, will I be able to boot without it?
> Thanks for the help guys, it seems I definitely need it


Yeah. The vast majority of power supplies on the market are not triggered to enter a protected state without the V-Sense wires.

Which Silverstone Strider unit do you have specifically? Their are about 5 of them in the 850w fashion, all different designs from Enhance.


----------



## jackeyjoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jackeyjoe*
> 
> right now it's a mirror image on the PSU end.
> 
> 
> 
> Should be like this. But then with pin 20 PSU side spliced into pin 13 M/B side?
> 
> 
> This is the ATX24 from short cable set which is compatible with all modular striders. Corresponds with the pinout above.
Click to expand...

Thanks so much, that's exactly what I needed! I shall switch it around ASAP : o
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jackeyjoe*
> Alrighty then, I might have to do some soldering so it doesn't mess with my colour scheme... silly me, will I be able to boot without it?
> Thanks for the help guys, it seems I definitely need it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah. The vast majority of power supplies on the market are not triggered to enter a protected state without the V-Sense wires.
> 
> Which Silverstone Strider unit do you have specifically? Their are about 5 of them in the 850w fashion, all different designs from Enhance.
Click to expand...

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_995&products_id=13278

That one, you are the expert so you can tell me if it will or won't work, I can get working with a soldering iron tonight either way...

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackeyjoe*
> 
> Thanks so much, that's exactly what I needed! I shall switch it around ASAP : o
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_995&products_id=13278
> That one, you are the expert so you can tell me if it will or won't work, I can get working with a soldering iron tonight either way...
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


Awesome, wisk posted exactly what I was saying. Ive done many of those lol


----------



## Dienz

I want to share with everyone the project I finished up tonight. I have a Silverstone FT03 and an ST1200G PSU with the short cable package. I didn't sleeve every single wire, but I did the major ones and have a few pics. I used Royal Blue paracord for everything but not a lot of heat shrink. The smaller wires (fans and case power/reset) have the shrink.

This was my first run at sleeving and I believe I have good results. The FT03 is setup in such a way that you really cannot see the 24pin ATX cable at all, so even if I were to cut a window later on I wouldn't see much. Anyway, please tell me what you guys think!

Components:
Asus Rampage III Gene
Core i7 960
2x Samsung Spinpoint F1
OCZ 64gb Synapse Cache - but not acting as cache. It's my OS drive. The Dataplex software kind of sucks and isn't conducive to a gaming machine in any capacity. I will replace this with a 256gb SSD later this year.
Corsair Dominator 6GB
XFX 7970 Black (Ref. cooler)
Corsair H80
3x Gelid Wing 12
2x Gelid Wing 8


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackeyjoe*
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_995&products_id=13278
> That one, you are the expert so you can tell me if it will or won't work, I can get working with a soldering iron tonight either way...
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


Doesn't need it to work, but it's definitely recommended.

The 3.3v rail is regulated on the same inductor as the 5v; so electrical performance will steeply decline without it.

On the other hand, with it, you have very good electrical performance.


----------



## jackeyjoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jackeyjoe*
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_995&products_id=13278
> That one, you are the expert so you can tell me if it will or won't work, I can get working with a soldering iron tonight either way...
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't need it to work, but it's definitely recommended.
> 
> The 3.3v rail is regulated on the same inductor as the 5v; so electrical performance will steeply decline without it.
> 
> On the other hand, with it, you have very good electrical performance.
Click to expand...

OK, great, I can put off soldering that until I can finish off the rest of the sleeviing and a bit of soldering I have to do. However, run into another problem after getting POST, won't POST with my GPU cables in(either single or both), have I screwed up again?









From memory the below is how they were, and I have made sure they are in properly multiple times... anybody with one of these PSU's able to check for me? I should take pictures of EVERYTHING before starting lol

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackeyjoe*
> 
> I should take pictures of EVERYTHING before starting lol


Not sure if this picture helps, it's also from the PP05 set. Basically it's the same principle as the ATX24: pin1 PSU side goes to pin1 PCIe side, pin2 to pin2 and so on.


What I suggest is that you connect the three 12V wires first. They go in the three positions on the lower row (square, hex, hex; see pic). Put those three in exactly the same positions on the PSU side as GPU side. Then the remaining 5 positions are ground. The best thing is to try to match these wires as well, connect each wire to same position on each end connector. This is because sometimes one of those ground wires is also used for sensing, but I'm not sure if that applies to your Strider. Maybe Tator Tot will know for sure.


----------



## Tator Tot

nope Strider's don't use a V-sense line on the PCIe cables


----------



## ixsis

Striders do not appear to use/need a vsense wire on the 24 pin either. My latest batch of cables from Silverstone have no 3 volt sense wires on the ATX connector and my emails to them (Silverstone) confirmed it.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ixsis*
> 
> Striders do not appear to use/need a vsense wire on the 24 pin either. My latest batch of cables from Silverstone have no 3 volt sense wires on the ATX connector and my emails to them (Silverstone) confirmed it.


Strider Gold / Strider Gold Evolution units do not need it but the Strider Plus units do require it.


----------



## ixsis

Thanks for the clarification on the strider models.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dienz*
> 
> I want to share with everyone the project I finished up tonight. I have a Silverstone FT03 and an ST1200G PSU with the short cable package. I didn't sleeve every single wire, but I did the major ones and have a few pics. I used Royal Blue paracord for everything but not a lot of heat shrink. The smaller wires (fans and case power/reset) have the shrink.
> This was my first run at sleeving and I believe I have good results. The FT03 is setup in such a way that you really cannot see the 24pin ATX cable at all, so even if I were to cut a window later on I wouldn't see much. Anyway, please tell me what you guys think!
> Components:
> Asus Rampage III Gene
> Core i7 960
> 2x Samsung Spinpoint F1
> OCZ 64gb Synapse Cache - but not acting as cache. It's my OS drive. The Dataplex software kind of sucks and isn't conducive to a gaming machine in any capacity. I will replace this with a 256gb SSD later this year.
> Corsair Dominator 6GB
> XFX 7970 Black (Ref. cooler)
> Corsair H80
> 3x Gelid Wing 12
> 2x Gelid Wing 8
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks _NICE_ ! Building in an FT 03 has gotta be like playing with a rubik cube - good work ! thinking of cutting a window ??


----------



## jackeyjoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Not sure if this picture helps, it's also from the PP05 set. Basically it's the same principle as the ATX24: pin1 PSU side goes to pin1 PCIe side, pin2 to pin2 and so on.
> 
> What I suggest is that you connect the three 12V wires first. They go in the three positions on the lower row (square, hex, hex; see pic). Put those three in exactly the same positions on the PSU side as GPU side. Then the remaining 5 positions are ground. The best thing is to try to match these wires as well, connect each wire to same position on each end connector. This is because sometimes one of those ground wires is also used for sensing, but I'm not sure if that applies to your Strider. Maybe Tator Tot will know for sure.


And now everything works! Thanks for all your help guys, +rep to the guys that helped









Now... to updating my build log


----------



## corysti

Im having a hard time with my paracord sleeving job. For some reason the paracord is too big for the hole of the connector after i melt it. ...Does anyone have any tips or possibly pictures of your paracord sleeving job so I know where to position the paracord


----------



## adi518

Check it out guys:










Quad combo!







Taken with my iphone 4 ( would u believe that? :O )

Mind not the sata cables behind there.









That gpu looks "happy", isn't it?


----------



## WebsterXC

Nice work. Shrinkless for the win.


----------



## protzman

so for shrinkless did you guys follow what lutro did and put the shrink on @ first then take it off after it melts?


----------



## protzman

Any tips for pulling cords out of the connectors? i keep f************* pulling the wires out of the pins and now the pins are stuck in the connectors!
thx


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Any tips for pulling cords out of the connectors? i keep f************* pulling the wires out of the pins and now the pins are stuck in the connectors!
> thx


Be gentle, try not to apply too much force, if it isnt easy to slide out then the fins arent down properl.


----------



## protzman

Are you serious!? I even feel like the easiest ones in my case gave me a friggin hernia trying to pull them out hahah! And man I did a few shrink less that s deff the way to go! They go in the connectors so much easier!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Are you serious!? I even feel like the easiest ones in my case gave me a friggin hernia trying to pull them out hahah! And man I did a few shrink less that s deff the way to go! They go in the connectors so much easier!


Pro paint.net skillz here, but this is what it looks like inside the connector.


The wings of the pin are usually digging into the nylon housing. If you pull hard now, then you're just cutting up the nylon more. The trick is to first push the pin a little deeper into the connector (upwards on the pic) so as to free the wings. Wiggle it around a bit. Then insert the molex tool to push the wings flat against the pin. Then it should slide out. Might still need a bit of force, especially if the nylon has become ragged. But you should never need so much that it pulls the wire out of the crimp.


----------



## Dienz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> That looks _NICE_ ! Building in an FT 03 has gotta be like playing with a rubik cube - good work ! thinking of cutting a window ??


Thank you! This case is a lot of fun to work with and it has outstanding airflow and it is definitely like a rubik cube







Gotta get creative with it!

I bought some Frozencpu sound dampening material and applied it to the front and side panels... Seems to work well, but then again I have a fish tank 6 feet from my desk so I generally hear that. If anyone is in the market for new fans, the Gelid Wing 12 series seem to work very well.

As far as the window goes, I do want to cut one into the side where the air vent is. I'm thinking I may use the entire panel as a giant window and put a soft glowing LED strip in there. I've seen a few examples that look pretty amazing so I will draw on those for some inspiration.


----------



## Dienz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Any tips for pulling cords out of the connectors? i keep f************* pulling the wires out of the pins and now the pins are stuck in the connectors!
> thx


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> so for shrinkless did you guys follow what lutro did and put the shrink on @ first then take it off after it melts?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Im having a hard time with my paracord sleeving job. For some reason the paracord is too big for the hole of the connector after i melt it. ...Does anyone have any tips or possibly pictures of your paracord sleeving job so I know where to position the paracord


I can take a few pictures of a wire that I will do start to finish and show you guys that are having some troubles how I did mine. Just know that I'm very much an amateur at sleeving but I think I have it down fairly well









I have noticed that my sleeving tool (the 5 piece Lamptron set) sometimes won't fit immediately inside the connector, so I took one of my wife's hair pins and cut it in half and I use that to "pry open" the plug that whichever pin I am working on goes into. Just a half millimeter of space or so and I have the room for the pin removal tool. After I...get it in there...no pun...I apply force on the connector itself while gripping the wire and it generally comes free without much trouble.

For the melting portion, I bring the edge of the paracord right up to the bottom of the pin, where the wire is crimped. I'll hold a lighter to it for a couple of seconds and spin the wire a bit, and then while it is still melted / malleable, I'll give it a twist with my thumb and index finger. That kind of "locks it in" to where I want it to stay, and fits inside the connector.

This guy has a video on how to sleeve with paracord without heat shrink:


----------



## protzman

Im still having trouble getting the pins out its taking a pretty good amount of force, but ive decided to go shrinkless and man thats so much easier than with shrink, looks better too!


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Im still having trouble getting the pins out its taking a pretty good amount of force, but ive decided to go shrinkless and man thats so much easier than with shrink, looks better too!


Is it a Seasonic PSU? They are a PITA to get out. I chose to make my own after destroying like 8 pins!









Sent from my brain to my nerves to my hands to my fingers to my phone to this post.


----------



## protzman

Yes, good god. This seasonic is a HUGE PITA, and i think i am at a total of 6 pins destroyed so far (its only happened on my 24 pin tho) i quickly did my 8pin and had no problem, some were still hard to get out but compared to the time i was having with the 24 pin (still unfinished) this 8 pin was a breeze!


----------



## corysti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Yes, good god. This seasonic is a HUGE PITA, and i think i am at a total of 6 pins destroyed so far (its only happened on my 24 pin tho) i quickly did my 8pin and had no problem, some were still hard to get out but compared to the time i was having with the 24 pin (still unfinished) this 8 pin was a breeze!


On my corsair power supply i had the same problem with my cables. The 8pin and my two 6+2 pins were easy to remove with very little force but the 24pin was just a pain and I would have to jerk them out...luckly i didn't break any pins doing it.


----------



## JoanchimMartin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Im having a hard time with my paracord sleeving job. For some reason the paracord is too big for the hole of the connector after i melt it. ...Does anyone have any tips or possibly pictures of your paracord sleeving job so I know where to position the paracord


The paracord is not too big for the hole of the connector... I can show you how to work with paracord 550 and smaller paracord:


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Lol i got bored of the stock look of my Logitech G400 so i did this to it




550 black paracord first time using it 

There is a build log for it to


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoanchimMartin*
> 
> The paracord is not too big for the hole of the connector... I can show you how to work with paracord 550 and smaller paracord:


Love the color choice. I used ACU paracord at one point, the stuff is extremely hot if you can pull it off with the rest of the build.


----------



## protzman

hey i ordered these pins from ppcs to replace the ones i broke when taking the wires out but they look like they are different sizes, well they are,
but on ppcs they say the fit for all 24 pin 8 pin ect. do you think this is going to be a problem?
the bigger one is what came on my psu and the smaller ones i ordered



also super important. HOW DO YOU GET PINS OUT OF THE CONNECTORS that dont come off with the wire?


----------



## adi518

Not sure I understand what you mean, can you put up a picture ??

Btw, not 100% sure, but I think PPC isn't carrying original molex pins. :\


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> also super important. HOW DO YOU GET PINS OUT OF THE CONNECTORS that dont come off with the wire?


Last resort tactics, if you've pulled the wire off a pin. Use a flathead watchmakers screwdriver, you know one of those with a black stem and very tiny end. Force it into the housing, on the left side of the pin, now turn the screwdriver so it squashes the left side of the pin. Now do the same on the right side. What you are doing is crushing the "wings" which hold in the pin. Eventually it will loosen enough to drop out. (Thanks to [email protected])

I refer you once again to the drawing I made earlier...


----------



## Zeromod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dienz*
> 
> I can take a few pictures of a wire that I will do start to finish and show you guys that are having some troubles how I did mine. Just know that I'm very much an amateur at sleeving but I think I have it down fairly well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have noticed that my sleeving tool (the 5 piece Lamptron set) sometimes won't fit immediately inside the connector, so I took one of my wife's hair pins and cut it in half and I use that to "pry open" the plug that whichever pin I am working on goes into. Just a half millimeter of space or so and I have the room for the pin removal tool. After I...get it in there...no pun...I apply force on the connector itself while gripping the wire and it generally comes free without much trouble.
> For the melting portion, I bring the edge of the paracord right up to the bottom of the pin, where the wire is crimped. I'll hold a lighter to it for a couple of seconds and spin the wire a bit, and then while it is still melted / malleable, I'll give it a twist with my thumb and index finger. That kind of "locks it in" to where I want it to stay, and fits inside the connector.
> This guy has a video on how to sleeve with paracord without heat shrink:


I recently started to sleeve my Seasonic 850w gold with paracord. I started to get frustrated the paracord kept getting tangles on the fins. I bought the tool in the video and started all over again.

I Highly recommened the little tool. I really dont know how you can sleeve the Atx pins without it.

If you want to order one he has a site http://www.pccablesleeving.com


----------



## Dienz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zeromod*
> 
> I recently started to sleeve my Seasonic 850w gold with paracord. I started to get frustrated the paracord kept getting tangles on the fins. I bought the tool in the video and started all over again.
> I Highly recommened the little tool. I really dont know how you can sleeve the Atx pins without it.
> If you want to order one he has a site http://www.pccablesleeving.com


I covered the pins in just a little bit of scotch tape and the wires fed right through the paracord without any issues. However, that tool looks like it will make things significantly easier








Thanks!


----------



## DarkHollow

Here is my latest sleeving project, so far its the probably the easiest thing I have done so far.










Gotta say the inspiration for this came from Lutro0, At least the custom ends and sleeving. The next part was from someone that did a braided version don't remember the guys name however. The other thing was I just wanted a longer cable as well.

Purple is ground and the black ones are black and red. 12 Gauge wires under there, after braiding I lost ~1 Ft, it was about 8 Ft to start with and from end to end (wire only, not including the connectors) it ended up at 7' 1".


----------



## socketus

HooEEEEE !! look at the cat ? dawg hairs ! Is that your power cord ? wow, mad skillz man ! looks super B !


----------



## DarkHollow

Hahaha yea, that's my white cat, Snow. His hairs show horribly on almost everything. Anyways like I said that's my freshly made power cable. Didn't cost too much to make honestly, most of the materials were ~$30. $15 for the ends and $5 per foll of 12 Gauge wire (I got 3, green black and red (25 Ft each)). I already had the sleeving and just did the 3rd pin/ground as the purple.

Oh and the reason I used 12 Gauge wire is that it can do something like ~22 amps (~2,500 watts), IIRC most home breakers will flip before that however. That way its future proof, looks great and is longer than the short cables that come with anything. I did a quick test run of it to make sure it works, it works fine and it was fairly simple to wire up just had to look for the tiny letters lol

Looks so nice I think I need another set of ends and maybe some pink sleeving or something for my fiances rig.


----------



## nezff




----------



## DarkHollow

Looks pretty good, but I gotta ask, why no ground on the wall end? If I were to use that cable I would be a touch worried about my computer.


----------



## adi518

I wanted to do this mod also but I can't. On ebay they don't sell Oyaide power plugs that suit 220v plugs and has a ground pin. It's not like Germany here, where the ground pin comes from the wall. However, I'll just use the 2nd method for sleeving the power cord.


----------



## DarkHollow

This what your looking for? C-079-IEC-P-079e Schuko Eu Plug




Looks like a fit to me.

Took a few minutes of researching to find that so I hope that's what you need lol


----------



## adi518

Thanks for helping, but that one isn't suitable for my needs. It's the european/german type of plug where the ground pin comes from the wall. In my country the plug has to have all 3 pins. I could order it and use only the plug that goes to the psu.


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHollow*
> 
> Looks pretty good, but I gotta ask, why no ground on the wall end? If I were to use that cable I would be a touch worried about my computer.


That's not for a pc. It was for a ht subwoofer I have. Just showing colors and the overall idea.


----------



## DarkHollow

Oh ok man, I was just like







when I saw it. (Since I assumed it was for the PC) Otherwise its all good then. It looks good, sleeving looks good too.


----------



## BuToNz

Hey guys,

Just wondering for the people using Paracord, what the thickness is? 3mm? 4mm? I'm going to be using the heatshrinkless method but don't want the cord being too thick or too thin that I can't get it over the pin.

Cheers


----------



## Hartk1213

here is my sleeving job...i did it a while ago and i cant remember if i ever posted it in this thread
let me know what you guys think


----------



## protzman

my 680 like most others has 2 6 pin connections. This is the pci-e cable that came with my psu. do you think i could just take out these extra 2 pin connections from the main connector on the other end and everything be okay?


----------



## Tator Tot

Don't take them out because you may need them, but all they are is ground connections.

GPU's sense when they are there, and some will not work (or will not allow for overclocking) when they are gone.

So just tuck them away.


----------



## protzman

thanks m8


----------



## DarkHollow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Just wondering for the people using Paracord, what the thickness is? 3mm? 4mm? I'm going to be using the heatshrinkless method but don't want the cord being too thick or too thin that I can't get it over the pin.
> 
> Cheers


No clue but AFAIK the most common paracord people use is 550 cord. IIRC there is a smaller one that is fairly common but I cant think of it right now.


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHollow*
> 
> No clue but AFAIK the most common paracord people use is 550 cord. IIRC there is a smaller one that is fairly common but I cant think of it right now.


Ended up ordering both 4mm and 3mm, the 4mm gives the best overall look. I'll probably use the 3mm for front panel wires









Thanks for the advice anyway!


----------



## ClaRazzle

Hi, I've never done any sleeving before and I have a couple of questions =]
1. What id the best method for sleeving the mobo connector? I'm afraid of pulling cables out and connecting them on the wrong place.
2. I was thinking of instead of braiding them individually, to do them in pairs, like one from each row, is that doable?

Thanks!


----------



## 350 Malibu

Here is my work in process with MDPC black and b-magic sleeving. Just finished the 24 pin tonight. Mine are all custom length, I just re-used the plastic housings from the existing AX1200 wiring. I still need to align the cables a bit better, just waiting until I finish sleeving on fans and other misc wiring so I can route/secure them all at once.

Thank you Lutro0 for the guides!


















How I dealt with the dreaded double wire.

















Innards:

























PS: I really need to get a better camera


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> Here is my work in process with MDPC black and b-magic sleeving. Just finished the 24 pin tonight. Mine are all custom length, I just re-used the plastic housings from the existing AX1200 wiring. I still need to align the cables a bit better, just waiting until I finish sleeving on fans and other misc wiring so I can route/secure them all at once.
> Thank you Lutro0 for the guides!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How I dealt with the dreaded double wire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Innards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: I really need to get a better camera


Wow man! Awesome job! Pretty much as clean I as hope SwitchWAVE will be!


----------



## adi518

Absolutely fantastic job Malibu!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*
> 
> Don't take them out because you may need them, but all they are is ground connections.
> 
> GPU's sense when they are there, and some will not work (or will not allow for overclocking) when they are gone.
> So just tuck them away.


I'm not following this. If the gpu needs dual 6 pins, what's the point of the extra wiring laying around? (I have two 7950's)
Now to be honest my last sleeving job (also my first) I included the extra wires and tucked them away. This time around I thought I would leave them out altogether. I make up all mine from scratch to custom lengths and I don't see myself changing two new gpu's anytime soon, if I did need the extra wires I would just put them in.

Or are you saying the psu needs those two wires in?


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I'm not following this. If the gpu needs dual 6 pins, what's the point of the extra wiring laying around? (I have two 7950's)
> Now to be honest my last sleeving job (also my first) I included the extra wires and tucked them away. This time around I thought I would leave them out altogether. I make up all mine from scratch to custom lengths and I don't see myself changing two new gpu's anytime soon, if I did need the extra wires I would just put them in.
> Or are you saying the psu needs those two wires in?


You can leave the extra two wires out, they only provide two more grounds. If your GPU is 6 pin only, then why leave them in. I sleeved mine and just stored them in a bin in case I ever get another GPU that requires all 8 then they can just plug right in and already match.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> You can leave the extra two wires out, they only provide two more grounds. If your GPU is 6 pin only, then why leave them in. I sleeved mine and just stored them in a bin in case I ever get another GPU that requires all 8 then they can just plug right in and already match.


So you have cables that are pci cables that have 2 (6 + 2) pin connectors like my post from a few up, and you just left off the little 2 pin connections when assembling your cables back together.
And you can confirm your pc powers up and works fine?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I'm not following this. If the gpu needs dual 6 pins, what's the point of the extra wiring laying around? (I have two 7950's)
> Now to be honest my last sleeving job (also my first) I included the extra wires and tucked them away. This time around I thought I would leave them out altogether. I make up all mine from scratch to custom lengths and I don't see myself changing two new gpu's anytime soon, if I did need the extra wires I would just put them in.
> Or are you saying the psu needs those two wires in?


The PSU nor the GPU exclusively need those wires, but you may need them in the future if you upgrade the system.

I at least would sleeve the wires and only connect the +2 pin side, but not plug them back into the main connector. That way you have them ready if you upgrade.

Some GPUs (like the HD7970) will not work without an 8pin & 6pin connector.


----------



## socketus

I have sleeved cables on my GTX 580 without the extra 2 pin - the cables are 6 + 2 and a 6 - this pc is my daily driver - no problems at all. Testimoony from this witness.


----------



## mandrix

Cool. Since I'm making up all my own psu cabling anyway, if I need two wires in the future it's honestly no big deal to add them.
After this build I won't be able to afford any new gpu's for quite a while anyway!


----------



## protzman

welp im just gonna have to say it again... 'F' sleeving... just wanna be done already!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> welp im just gonna have to say it again... 'F' sleeving... just wanna be done already!


I don't even get in a hurry. But having said that, the 24 pin was pretty easy to make/sleeve.This is my second Seasonic though so I guess practice makes perfect, lol.
It's the freakin' punch down connectors on the SATA power cables that give me fits. Hate those things.


----------



## NewHighScore

OK so my MDPC is on the way should be here on Mon or Tues. I am on my way to pick up a few hundred feet of 18awg wire in black and yellow for custom length cables. I will be purchasing the Silverstone Strider Evolution 750w for awesome neat pinouts this week. I've watched all the LutroO videos. I think I am ready!

Any tips for a n3wb?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> welp im just gonna have to say it again... 'F' sleeving... just wanna be done already!


Oh man you poor soul. Where have you been? Sleeving this whole time?


----------



## protzman

idk what it is but the cpu cable and mosly the pcie cable were really easy to get the wires out of but idk whats up with my 24 pin. i even got a new one and its just as hard!


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Any tips for a n3wb?


Just have patience and understand that it won't be perfect while you are learning how to do it...eventually, you will get the hang of it and be able to work quicker with perfect results!


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> So you have cables that are pci cables that have 2 (6 + 2) pin connectors like my post from a few up, and you just left off the little 2 pin connections when assembling your cables back together.
> And you can confirm your pc powers up and works fine?


Yes, it powers up just fine the two extra pins just provide additional ground wires to the GPU *when the GPU needs it (i.e., 8 pin GPU's)*. I don't see what you are not understanding here, we are talking about a 6 pin GPU.

My GPU's are 6 pin (560ti's), my wires from the PSU are 6+2. The +2 wires go no where on the GPU's, they just dangle in mid air next to it! What possible good could these two extra pins do dangling in the mid air? I say leave them out for 6 pin GPU's.


----------



## DarkHollow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> So you have cables that are pci cables that have 2 (6 + 2) pin connectors like my post from a few up, and you just left off the little 2 pin connections when assembling your cables back together.
> And you can confirm your pc powers up and works fine?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, it powers up just fine the two extra pins just provide additional ground wires to the GPU *when the GPU needs it (i.e., 8 pin GPU's)*. I don't see what you are not understanding here, we are talking about a 6 pin GPU.
> 
> My GPU's are 6 pin (560ti's), my wires from the PSU are 6+2. The +2 wires go no where on the GPU's, they just dangle in mid air next to it! What possible good could these two extra pins do dangling in the mid air? I say leave them out for 6 pin GPU's.
Click to expand...

I believe the question was more of for cards that had 8pin connectors would they work with 2 6pins. It looks like the answer is it depends, some gpus may work fine others may not allow certain things and others may not boot at all. IMO I would say unless your only gonna have 6 pin cards don't remove em. I didn't bother since on my PSU they just have the 2 pins coming out of the 6pin connector so they are not a problem.


----------



## nezff

I had my cables done by moddiy. My two cards take one 8pin and one 6 pin. The extra 2 pin cables stay out of sight behind the mobo tray.


----------



## BuToNz

So here's my first attempt, forgot to snap some shots before putting them in the case. Still 'training' them into shape.




Next up is the GPU power cables, after that I'll tackle the front panel connectors and fan cables.

Any tips on where I can get myself some 'Mini' paracord for the smaller wires? Otherwise I'm going to have to do them in bunches of wires.


----------



## Duski

looks good, haven't used any paracord before been waiting to get some sleeving though to do somethings on my own pc, just not sure what i want to use yet.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> Any tips on where I can get myself some 'Mini' paracord for the smaller wires? Otherwise I'm going to have to do them in bunches of wires.


Your best bet would be to try finding some lower strand paracord, however I don't know if they make anything smaller than the 450/550 diameter. Lower strands is going to equal a smaller cord.


----------



## eskamobob1

where do you guys order your paracord from? i much prefer it for sleeving, and i recently ran out of the colors i usualy use (bough 1k feet of like 15 different colors about a year ago)... also, any recomendations/pics of colors to compliment/contrast with purple+black and orange+black... im planning on doing a dual loop and have the top half of my build one color and the bottom another (hard to explain )


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> where do you guys order your paracord from? i much prefer it for sleeving, and i recently ran out of the colors i usualy use (bough 1k feet of like 15 different colors about a year ago)... also, any recomendations/pics of colors to compliment/contrast with purple+black and orange+black... im planning on doing a dual loop and have the top half of my build one color and the bottom another (hard to explain )


personally, I like ftwpc paracord. Very nice density and colors are bright. Ordered from amazon as well few times and wasn't as happy.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> personally, I like ftwpc paracord. Very nice density and colors are bright. Ordered from amazon as well few times and wasn't as happy.


ok... i will look into them again... last time i ordered paracord they had liek 5 colors







... and any artistic opinion of complimenting colors for a bright orange and dark purple?









EDIT: your avatar trips me out btw


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> where do you guys order your paracord from? i much prefer it for sleeving, and i recently ran out of the colors i usualy use (bough 1k feet of like 15 different colors about a year ago)... also, any recomendations/pics of colors to compliment/contrast with purple+black and orange+black... im planning on doing a dual loop and have the top half of my build one color and the bottom another (hard to explain )


Ended up taking a risk ordering some from Ebay (UK) and thankfully the cheapest was of good quality. All I really wanted was un-snagged paracord


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkHollow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> So you have cables that are pci cables that have 2 (6 + 2) pin connectors like my post from a few up, and you just left off the little 2 pin connections when assembling your cables back together.
> And you can confirm your pc powers up and works fine?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, it powers up just fine the two extra pins just provide additional ground wires to the GPU *when the GPU needs it (i.e., 8 pin GPU's)*. I don't see what you are not understanding here, we are talking about a 6 pin GPU.
> 
> My GPU's are 6 pin (560ti's), my wires from the PSU are 6+2. The +2 wires go no where on the GPU's, they just dangle in mid air next to it! What possible good could these two extra pins do dangling in the mid air? I say leave them out for 6 pin GPU's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I believe the question was more of for cards that had 8pin connectors would they work with 2 6pins. It looks like the answer is it depends, some gpus may work fine others may not allow certain things and others may not boot at all. IMO I would say unless your only gonna have 6 pin cards don't remove em. I didn't bother since on my PSU they just have the 2 pins coming out of the 6pin connector so they are not a problem.
Click to expand...

It definitely depends on the card. While at the last OCN LAN, Devon was testing out GPU's and some 7970's would boot with only 2 6-pins plugged in, but some 7970 needed the 8-pin.

There are ways to cheat the extra 2 pins as they are just grounds and you won't exceed the current capacity of the wires themselves, but it's not recommended.


----------



## berlington456

Hi my name is Bernard and I am new to all this. I think have all the materials and am ready to go but before I do I have a couple of questions. I am attempting to make a couple of extensions 1) 8 pin cpu and 1) 24 pin main board.

First question is do I insert male pins in to female connectors, female pins into male connectors? This is not meant as a stupid question I will try and explain in question two.

Second question: what order do you insert the pins (male and female)? What I mean by this
Is that my 18 gauge wires are all black 35cm from Moddiy.com, already pinned, not different colours like you might see on some 24 pin or yellow and black on others so is there a special order on how to insert once sleeved so as to not blow anything.

Maybe I am missing something and you can point me in the right direction. My psu is a Corsair AX 850.

Not sure is if i have posted this in the right area so fogive me if i have.

Your assistance in this matter would really be appreciated.

Cheers,

Bernard.


----------



## KyadCK

Just got some sleeve and heat-shrink for my first cable sleeving attempt. It wasn't until I got home with them that I thought about the minor fact that it wasn't going to be a 10-min process.





, I learned how to remove the pins safely without "proper" tools. Say hello to my sharpened paperclip, staple-gun staple, and practice PSU.


I figure I'll practice for a few hours(or days) before I try anyting on my main PSU, although after the first few times, it gets much easier to do.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *berlington456*
> 
> Hi my name is Bernard and I am new to all this. I think have all the materials and am ready to go but before I do I have a couple of questions. I am attempting to make a couple of extensions 1) 8 pin cpu and 1) 24 pin main board.
> First question is do I insert male pins in to female connectors, female pins into male connectors? This is not meant as a stupid question I will try and explain in question two.
> Second question: what order do you insert the pins (male and female)? What I mean by this
> Is that my 18 gauge wires are all black 35cm from Moddiy.com, already pinned, not different colours like you might see on some 24 pin or yellow and black on others so is there a special order on how to insert once sleeved so as to not blow anything.
> Maybe I am missing something and you can point me in the right direction. My psu is a Corsair AX 850.
> Not sure is if i have posted this in the right area so fogive me if i have.
> Your assistance in this matter would really be appreciated.
> Cheers,
> Bernard.


You can trace your existing psu cables sheeesh ! all black cabling .... but I also found this thread


----------



## PCModderMike

Does anyone has any experience with Bitspower sleeving? Found HERE.

If so...good? Bad? Meh?


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Does anyone has any experience with Bitspower sleeving? Found HERE.
> If so...good? Bad? Meh?


actually requested a sample with an order from ppcs and its actually really nice quality! It's really firm which i like, which i assume the cables would stay in flex'ed position better. Pretty expensive tho if you add an order up. I did thinking it would be cheaper than mdpc and i was way more


----------



## berlington456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> You can trace your existing psu cables sheeesh ! all black cabling .... but I also found this thread


Not sure that is what i need but thanks for your advice.

I'm looking to make my own extensions to plug into my psu 24 pin and 8 pin cpu. Just found an old Nzxt 8 pin psu extension cable which i have used before and it looks like all the cables are parallel so I'm thinking as long as i follow there method i should be fine. All the male and female pins are the same it uses 18 gauge wires which are black and i checked by removing the sleeve.

So based on my Nzxt extension cable we have male pins all the same, the female pins all the same all the wirers are black and 18 gauge, they are inserted parallel to each other, not crossing over or double wires which seems pretty straight forward but I am not 100% if this is how extension cable work with relevance to making sure I don't blow anything the sleeving seems straight forward in theory but no doubt will not be the case in practise.

I have also seen a lot of pictures by Lutro and his extensions as in the case of wire insertion goes, seems to follow the parallel formula but i could be wrong.

I guess i need help in understanding how extension cables function before i go ahead with the sleeving ( which is MDPC white and black)

Thanks for your help though socketus!!

Regards,

Bernard.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *berlington456*
> 
> I guess i need help in understanding how extension cables function


Extension cables function as an extension to the female pins of the source cables. So you do indeed wire them 1-to-1, parallel to each other, in the same order and not crossing. Lutro0's pictures are the ideal example.

If you are nervous to start with constructing your own wire harness, the best advice I can give: buy a cheap PSU tester so that you won't be afraid anymore to break your hardware


----------



## berlington456

Thanks WiSK,

Thinking of it an extention of the oringinal psu cable has made a lot of sense. Might look into a PSU tester too.









Regards,

Bernard.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *berlington456*
> 
> Thanks WiSK,
> Thinking of it an extention of the oringinal psu cable has made a lot of sense. Might look into a PSU tester too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Bernard.


I'm confused - you have a Corsair AX850 and you're going to use extensions ? to plug into your psu's 24 and 8 pin ? you better have 2 sets of those Corsair connectors, then !

Lets say you have the original Corsair 24 pin cable ready to hook to your fabbed extensions. I don't how you make up an extension without a 2 piece connector to connect to the mobo cable.

That would be a Lutro0 question - he does address the question here, in a pm, tho

http://www.overclock.net/t/1159606/lutro0-customs-sleeved-extension-service/100#post_15617287

Hmm, if you want pre-made cables with Corsair end connectors, there's always the Corsair kits

http://www.corsair.com/us/power-supply-units/psu-accessories.html


----------



## KyadCK

So, I finally got around to practicing the sleeving itself. Only 1 of 4 was all that good.


----------



## Duski

MDPC has everything in meters, i plan on getting 2 colors, blue and white how man meters is needed? to sleeve the psu and few other things?
i realize there is 3.2ft per meter, just curious how much i would need


----------



## socketus

Theres a method on the MDPC site, go to the international site - it tells you to multiply your 24pin cables by length, then add all your other cables' lengths - take into account if you plan to make longer than stock cables, or shorter - like a vid cable set that doesn't loop around the right panel, then add 10-15% of the total length to be sure.

Takes roughly 2 - 3 weeks for an MDPC shipment to reach you in the states.


----------



## Duski

thanks, says avg psu is about 200-230ft where 100meters is roughly 320ft, if i got 50 meters per color should be able to psu and some extra's

just put it on their site, and put in 6 (10meter) of each color, figured if 100 does well that 120 should cover everything in pc, with precut heatshrink etc comes out to 140$ before shipping.. phew, want to look amazing definitely pay the price..


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duski*
> 
> thanks, says avg psu is about 200-230ft where 100meters is roughly 320ft, if i got 50 meters per color should be able to psu and some extra's
> just put it on their site, and put in 6 (10meter) of each color, figured if 100 does well that 120 should cover everything in pc, with precut heatshrink etc comes out to 140$ before shipping.. phew, want to look amazing definitely pay the price..


It's mostly pricey because it's not made in a factory in Asia by people on minimum wage. But it's also pricey because of buying 10m lengths. Nils also offers bulk sales at half price, but I think that's mostly useful for people who sleeve for all their friends as well.


----------



## NewHighScore

I cannot get the pins out of my AX750 for the life of me. Even with the MDPC tool. I planned on getting a silverstone Strider evo 750w at first then I thought I would try with my AX750 and now I am for sure getting the Silverstone Strider 750w.


----------



## Sevada88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I cannot get the pins out of my AX750 for the life of me. Even with the MDPC tool. I planned on getting a silverstone Strider evo 750w at first then I thought I would try with my AX750 and now I am for sure getting the Silverstone Strider 750w.


Had the same problem with my Seasonic X660. I ended up breaking some of the pins, they simple wouldn't come out. But, it's a matter of applying the right technique. You just have to play with it a little bit to find what works best for your PSU.


----------



## berlington456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> I'm confused - you have a Corsair AX850 and you're going to use extensions ? to plug into your psu's 24 and 8 pin ? you better have 2 sets of those Corsair connectors, then !
> Lets say you have the original Corsair 24 pin cable ready to hook to your fabbed extensions. I don't how you make up an extension without a 2 piece connector to connect to the mobo cable.
> That would be a Lutro0 question - he does address the question here, in a pm, tho
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1159606/lutro0-customs-sleeved-extension-service/100#post_15617287
> Hmm, if you want pre-made cables with Corsair end connectors, there's always the Corsair kits
> http://www.corsair.com/us/power-supply-units/psu-accessories.html


I am interested in making my own extensions from scratch using different coloured sleeving . I have used Nzxt and Bitfinex 24pin and 8pin cpu (which were single colour) ones before wtih my Corsair PSU so i know they work but just wasn't sure of the pin lay out for when putting them together. Lutro's are 1-to-1 parallel but i would like to understand why i think this woudl help me be more confident. I will try and pm Lutro. thanks for your help tho:thumb:

Regards,

Bernard.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *berlington456*
> 
> I have used Nzxt and Bitfinex 24pin and 8pin cpu (which were single colour) ones before wtih my Corsair PSU so i know they work but just wasn't sure of the pin lay out for when putting them together.


Bernard, I think Socketus is confused why you are planning to make _extensions_ to a PSU which has modular cables. I believe he is suggesting you replace the modular cables altogether.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> I'm confused - you have a Corsair AX850 and you're going to use extensions ? to plug into your psu's 24 and 8 pin ? you better have 2 sets of those Corsair connectors, then !


Socketus, he's just making extensions - female to male - not trying to plug them directly into the PSU. As you'll know the Corsair AX series has proprietary 18pin + 10pin connectors on the PSU. It's not given that someone who is new to sleeving wants to go down the road of repinning those original cables.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> actually requested a sample with an order from ppcs and its actually really nice quality! It's really firm which i like, which i assume the cables would stay in flex'ed position better. Pretty expensive tho if you add an order up. I did thinking it would be cheaper than mdpc and i was way more


Hmm well might as well just go with MDPC huh if it's going to cost the same if not more?


----------



## berlington456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Bernard, I think Socketus is confused why you are planning to make _extensions_ to a PSU which has modular cables. I believe he is suggesting you replace the modular cables altogether.
> Socketus, he's just making extensions - female to male - not trying to plug them directly into the PSU. As you'll know the Corsair AX series has proprietary 18pin + 10pin connectors on the PSU. It's not given that someone who is new to sleeving wants to go down the road of repinning those original cables.


WiSk,

No worries i will pm Lutro just want to make sure i understand extentions a bit more before i go ahead and start making them. The pin out in relation to 1-to-1 parallel this is where i am having brain block.

Regards,

Bernard.


----------



## NewHighScore

a couple test runs with MDPC shade 19 and yellow.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> a couple test runs with MDPC shade 19 and yellow.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice, going to work great with your theme. The SATA cables look awesome.


----------



## Lutro0

=P It is a great combo.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> =P It is a great combo.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hey Lutro0







I've seen from some of your older posts, that you're not a big fan of the Kobra sleeving...but even so, do you have a video guide on it?


----------



## NewHighScore

Thanks PCModderMike! And wow LutroO does that ever look good with some black mixed in there. I may have to put in another order for some black too!


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Bernard, I think Socketus is confused why you are planning to make _extensions_ to a PSU which has modular cables. I believe he is suggesting you replace the modular cables altogether.
> Socketus, he's just making extensions - female to male - not trying to plug them directly into the PSU. As you'll know the Corsair AX series has proprietary 18pin + 10pin connectors on the PSU. It's not given that someone who is new to sleeving wants to go down the road of repinning those original cables.


Nope, not replace the Corsair's modular cables, but how do you attach extensions to a modular cable ..... Um ... wait a min ! Never mind, my Brain is now FART FREE








the psu end is proprietary 2 piece, it ends in the normal mobo connector .... yadda yadda ... man ! what was I on yesterday ?!?!?!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *berlington456*
> 
> WiSk,
> No worries i will pm Lutro just want to make sure i understand extentions a bit more before i go ahead and start making them. The pin out in relation to 1-to-1 parallel this is where i am having brain block.
> Regards,
> Bernard.


Yah, there shouldn't be any problem doing a 1 to 1 extension like Lutro0 can do. All mobo connectors are the same - all you're doing is crafting an extension that uses universal mobo connector on both ends.


----------



## longroadtrip

Decisions...Decisions...


----------



## Gir

Has anyone ever used two different individual sleeving colors in a build before?

For example: I'm getting a white storm stryker, my PSU is already sleeved black, and I'm considering mixing it up by sleeving fan cables and IO/front panel connectors in white. What do you guys think?


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gir*
> 
> Has anyone ever used two different individual sleeving colors in a build before?
> For example: I'm getting a white storm stryker, my PSU is already sleeved black, and I'm considering mixing it up by sleeving fan cables and IO/front panel connectors in white. What do you guys think?


I have the same case. Take the white sleeving and lay it in the case in a couple spots. step back and see what you think. Im thinking of mixing in a couple strands of white myself.


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*


Nice and tidy! Definitely missing a spot of white, get to it sir!

:EDIT: Just thought: Would look extra nice with a strand of bright green in each connector


----------



## Toad Boy

Not sure whether 3rd picture really does this justice, but when I turn room lights off, and green LED's on, the toxic green sleeving turns kinda yellow (Otherwise it's stunning!!!)

Does anyone know why this is, or any help would be appreciated?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Hey Lutro0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen from some of your older posts, that you're not a big fan of the Kobra sleeving...but even so, do you have a video guide on it?


You can follow the MDPC or Plastic Type Video Guides as its all relative:









However its not so much that I am not a fan personally, but I believe the sleeve was designed with a good theory of how decreasing the diameter would make it a better sleeve, but I feel as though it was not properly tested with a "hands on" approach and other factors not taken into consideration. ( I mean no disrespect to the creator as anyone who took the time to make it deserves credit in my book)

One would think that smaller diameter sleeving equals less work but when its taken to the extreme that Kobra has taken it (you might as well be using paracord as it requires the same methods just to get it on the wire otherwise it will snag (masking tape over the pin or a tool). The small sleeve diameter is just too small and you lose the perks of using plastic type sleeving because of it.

If you use 16awg or thick insulated - even medium insulated 18awg wires the wire color will show through, again because of the extreme diameter. This makes using the oem wires (colored) - which is the norm for people who just do one or two jobs.

Third is the price, its just too expensive unless you buy it in mini spools. Performance-pcs & FrozenCPU as well as other has them but even then the cost is high plus you pay shipping.

Lastly, when you sleeve a 24pin or any other cable you want a "full" look to the cable. What I mean by this is that you want there to be as little of a gap between the sleeved cables as possible to give it a full colored look. But due to the diameter again it leaves large gaps in-between the pins leaving it IMO empty feeling.

However there is a 2 pros to the small diameter, which is its easy to use heatshrink with due to the extra room - but if you have to resleeve one due to a mistake you will have a heck of a time getting it off.

Another pro is that I am able to do some heatshrink methods and tricks with Kobra that I am not able to do with many other sleeves - mostly centering about being able to make clean double pin connectors for neat looking configurations, or when someone has little to no backplate space for management

I never LIKE to give any product a bad review, but when I see it causing a ton of frustration for a new sleevers and experienced ones alike - I have to warn against using it as the cons far outweigh the pros.


----------



## kyismaster

wow lutro0, I see you hit up that MDPC with a lighter and it didn't roll up on itsself!

I bought some cheap sleeving to try recently and I hit it up with a lighter and it crimpled up like a snailshell lol.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> You can follow the MDPC or Plastic Type Video Guides as its all relative:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> However its not so much that I am not a fan personally, but I believe the sleeve was designed with a good theory of how decreasing the diameter would make it a better sleeve, but I feel as though it was not properly tested with a "hands on" approach and other factors not taken into consideration. ( I mean no disrespect to the creator as anyone who took the time to make it deserves credit in my book)
> One would think that smaller diameter sleeving equals less work but when its taken to the extreme that Kobra has taken it (you might as well be using paracord as it requires the same methods just to get it on the wire otherwise it will snag (masking tape over the pin or a tool). The small sleeve diameter is just too small and you lose the perks of using plastic type sleeving because of it.
> If you use 16awg or thick insulated - even medium insulated 18awg wires the wire color will show through, again because of the extreme diameter. This makes using the oem wires (colored) - which is the norm for people who just do one or two jobs.
> Third is the price, its just too expensive unless you buy it in mini spools. Performance-pcs & FrozenCPU as well as other has them but even then the cost is high plus you pay shipping.
> Lastly, when you sleeve a 24pin or any other cable you want a "full" look to the cable. What I mean by this is that you want there to be as little of a gap between the sleeved cables as possible to give it a full colored look. But due to the diameter again it leaves large gaps in-between the pins leaving it IMO empty feeling.
> However there is a 2 pros to the small diameter, which is its easy to use heatshrink with due to the extra room - but if you have to resleeve one due to a mistake you will have a heck of a time getting it off.
> Another pro is that I am able to do some heatshrink methods and tricks with Kobra that I am not able to do with many other sleeves - mostly centering about being able to make clean double pin connectors for neat looking configurations, or when someone has little to no backplate space for management
> I never LIKE to give any product a bad review, but when I see it causing a ton of frustration for a new sleevers and experienced ones alike - I have to warn against using it as the cons far outweigh the pros.


Wow, well thanks for your detailed thoughts on the product. It definitely helps when contemplating a purchase, especially for a first timer. I really would like to go all out and get the best available, MDPC, but I always have a hard time getting into his store at the right time. Also I'm in a crunch to get my rig done, and thinking about the wait time for shipping makes me impatient. You're right about the cost of the Kobra though that's for sure. I bought the large spools from FCPU and it still broke the bank. I hope I don't regret going with it.







But I know some guys who work with it on a regular basis and I'll probably end up running to them when I have trouble.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Wow, well thanks for your detailed thoughts on the product. It definitely helps when contemplating a purchase, especially for a first timer. I really would like to go all out and get the best available, MDPC, but I always have a hard time getting into his store at the right time. Also I'm in a crunch to get my rig done, and thinking about the wait time for shipping makes me impatient. You're right about the cost of the Kobra though that's for sure. I bought the large spools from FCPU and it still broke the bank. I hope I don't regret going with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I know some guys who work with it on a regular basis and I'll probably end up running to them when I have trouble.


I work with Kobra on an every-day basis (if you catch my drift). Personally I think it's the best alternative to MDPC. I've noticed that Kobra doesn't do shrinkless very well, but pair it with heatshrink and it looks fantastic. If you're single braiding, it's ALMOST zero bleed through. For example, your yellow wires will be a little bit lighter of a black than your black wires.

I noticed a discussion a couple days earlier about Bitspower sleeving, but didn't say anything. That stuff is complete crap. It barely expands enough to work with, gets stuck on everything, and has a permanent ovular shape to it. It also does not pair well with heatshrink, especially if you're trying to sleeve fans. Stay away from that stuff. The 1/8" is too big for single braid, and the 1/16" is too small to fit over ATX pins. Utter trash if you ask me.

Good luck with the sleeving!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Good luck with the sleeving!


Thanks, I'll need it.







I was hoping to go for the shrinkless look, so kind of a bummer to hear it doesn't work so well with Kobra. I'll give it a go anyway and see what works best.


----------



## WebsterXC

I mean it's probably possible, just a little more difficult than MDPC. I've personally found that Kobra sleeving with FrozenCPU's pre-cut heatshrink looks fantastic. Post pictures when it arrives!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> I mean it's probably possible, just a little more difficult than MDPC. I've personally found that Kobra sleeving with FrozenCPU's pre-cut heatshrink looks fantastic. Post pictures when it arrives!


Here is what I was playing around with last night.

Definitely testing my patience working with it







LOL
I tried, as best I could, to do shrinkless sleeving, but really wasn't working at all with the Kobra.


----------



## jfry94

hey guys ive just started my first build and would like some help from you guys regarding two things.
1. ive brought my first power supply (semi modular) and the 24 and the 8 pins are really tight when routed behind the motherboard tray, will this damage any of the cable's or motherboard. or would resleeveing them individuality allow a little slack. so should i buy extensions or not?
2. Having decided on a color scheme for the hole build (blue black and white) what are everyone's thoughts on using mdpc magic blue and titanium/ light gray together. in the following combinations.
24 pin) b,g,g,g,g,b.b.g.g.g.g.b or b,b,b,b,g,g,g,g,g,g,g,g
8 pin pcie molex) b,g,g,b or ,b,b,g,g
sata) b,g,b,g,b or b,b,g,g,g or b,g,g,g,b

cheers guys josh fry

ps this is one long thread and im upto page 350, the pics are just amazing


----------



## nyk20z3

Ordering some -

MDPC Toxic Green and Aquamarine-Blue MKII at 20 meters each which should be more then enough to sleeve a 8 pin power,24 pin power,4X 6 pin pci-e power cables.


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Did some of my first-ever sleeving over the past couple days, let me know what you guys think! I used all MDPC stuff.



















Don't mind the unsleeved double wire, I just haven't done it yet.









Tried my best with this double wire, could've done it better but it works. Unfotunately Corsair PSUs use a ton of double wires so I'll be doing more of these.









Now one problem I've had is with the molex plugs. I can't think of a way to sleeve the wires that bridge two molex plugs without undoing the pin, sleeving, and then recrimping. Let me know if you have any ideas.


----------



## NewHighScore

Looks great papasmurf! I hope mine look that good when I'm done with it!


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Looks great papasmurf! I hope mine look that good when I'm done with it!


i got supper excited when i saw this post... went and checked and it wasnt papa







... loll... nice job on teh sleeving none the less... looks great


----------



## nyk20z3

Most of these sleeving jobs look better with out any heat shrink.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Most of these sleeving jobs look better with out any heat shrink.


I like the look of heatshrink if it's neat and done right.









I think it looks good, papasmurf.


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> i got supper excited when i saw this post... went and checked and it wasnt papa
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... loll... nice job on teh sleeving none the less... looks great


I am kind of being an imposter aren't I! I just use this name for every username I've ever had so I don't want to switch it up now.

Thanks for the kind words everyone!


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> I am kind of being an imposter aren't I! I just use this name for every username I've ever had so I don't want to switch it up now.
> Thanks for the kind words everyone!


lol... well its in good spirit so its all good







... and i cant wait to see all those cables actualy in a rig


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfry94*
> 
> hey guys ive just started my first build and would like some help from you guys regarding two things.
> 1. ive brought my first power supply (semi modular) and the 24 and the 8 pins are really tight when routed behind the motherboard tray, will this damage any of the cable's or motherboard. or would resleeveing them individuality allow a little slack. so should i buy extensions or not?
> 2. Having decided on a color scheme for the hole build (blue black and white) what are everyone's thoughts on using mdpc magic blue and titanium/ light gray together. in the following combinations.
> 24 pin) b,g,g,g,g,b.b.g.g.g.g.b or b,b,b,b,g,g,g,g,g,g,g,g
> 8 pin pcie molex) b,g,g,b or ,b,b,g,g
> sata) b,g,b,g,b or b,b,g,g,g or b,g,g,g,b
> cheers guys josh fry
> ps this is one long thread and im upto page 350, the pics are just amazing


TBH, just about any combi will work. What will work against you is your case's cable mgmt holes and their placement in relation to the mobo/graphics card. Individually sleeved wiring can be just as ornery and stubborn and stiff as the bundled cabling.

Have you checked out Lutro0's sleeved extensions ? He's the man when it comes to sleeving - tutorials, photos, text on how to, he even streams live video of himself sleeving.

http://www.overclock.net/f/17973/cables-and-sleeving


----------



## jfry94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> TBH, just about any combi will work. What will work against you is your case's cable mgmt holes and their placement in relation to the mobo/graphics card. Individually sleeved wiring can be just as ornery and stubborn and stiff as the bundled cabling.
> Have you checked out Lutro0's sleeved extensions ? He's the man when it comes to sleeving - tutorials, photos, text on how to, he even streams live video of himself sleeving.
> http://www.overclock.net/f/17973/cables-and-sleeving


cheers for that i have had a look at some of lutro0's stuff, i saw his videos on youtube and that whats brought me here. i think i will just get some erxtensions for the 24 and 8 pin cable ant then when i sleeve make some custom length ones for the pci ,sata and molex as there the ones that are modular on my psu.


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> Did some of my first-ever sleeving over the past couple days, let me know what you guys think! I used all MDPC stuff.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't mind the unsleeved double wire, I just haven't done it yet.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried my best with this double wire, could've done it better but it works. Unfotunately Corsair PSUs use a ton of double wires so I'll be doing more of these.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now one problem I've had is with the molex plugs. I can't think of a way to sleeve the wires that bridge two molex plugs without undoing the pin, sleeving, and then recrimping. Let me know if you have any ideas.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


PapaSmurf

Check out Lutro's video on the molex power cables. He covers the double power wires without needing to cut the pin off. His method has worked flawless for me.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> PapaSmurf
> Check out Lutro's video on the molex power cables. He covers the double power wires without needing to cut the pin off. His method has worked flawless for me.


Yes I did it yesterday! I watched the video some time ago but got a new PSU and waiting on my crimps so decided to fix my molex cable. LutroO's videos have been so helpful!


----------



## Lutro0

So much lutro0 love. <3 =)

Last I hear from PapaSmurf is that he was having some health issues. Hes def an older guy, he pops back and forth.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> So much lutro0 love. <3 =)
> Last I hear from PapaSmurf is that he was having some health issues. Hes def an older guy, he pops back and forth.


You are a priceless asset to the community LutroO.







I can't imagine how many people you have helped with your extremely informative videos. It's all the small things and details in your videos too!

Sleeving can seem very overwhelming prospect when in the early stages of planning but after watching your video's it's so much less overwhelming and I am much more confident to undertake the project now.









Also much love for recommending the silverstone strider series. I couldn't depin my AX750 for the life of me. First pin first try of the strider came out no prob.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> You are a priceless asset to the community LutroO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't imagine how many people you have helped with your extremely informative videos. It's all the small things and details in your videos too!
> Sleeving can seem very overwhelming prospect when in the early stages of planning but after watching your video's it's so much less overwhelming and I am much more confident to undertake the project now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also much love for recommending the silverstone strider series. I couldn't depin my AX750 for the life of me. First pin first try of the strider came out no prob.


What PSU are you using?


----------



## NewHighScore




----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice. So it is generally accepted that Corsair PSUs are a PIA to sleeve and depin?


----------



## NewHighScore

Im not sure to be honest. I have seen some people say it was not that hard but I seriously could not get a single pin other then molex out. It just so happened that my friends psu died at this time so I sold the AX750 to reduce my damages on the new psu.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Im not sure to be honest. I have seen some people say it was not that hard but I seriously could not get a single pin other then molex out. It just so happened that my friends psu died at this time so I sold the AX750 to reduce my damages on the new psu.


Ah well good timing I guess. I haven't had too much trouble getting the pins out of my AX850...although some have been stubborn. One caused me to almost break the prongs on my pin removal tool, and that got me pretty mad, the thought of breaking this little dinky tool I just paid 25 dollars for lol







Also the wiring itself has been somewhat confusing and frustrating, lots of double wires, and twisting wires that don't make sense. I dunno....I need to step back and just take a good breather before getting back into it.


----------



## jfry94

what psu do you guys think would be a good choice for 2 690's and the rest of my set up as im thinking of getting them but my psu atm is only 850w and semi modular


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> PapaSmurf
> Check out Lutro's video on the molex power cables. He covers the double power wires without needing to cut the pin off. His method has worked flawless for me.


He doesn't explain how to do a molex plug to molex plug wire though does he?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Very nice. So it is generally accepted that Corsair PSUs are a PIA to sleeve and depin?


A lot of people say this, but I've had no trouble depinning my AX750. Sure it's a little difficult at times, but I've been using the MDPC depinning tool and it hasn't been too hard.


----------



## socketus

For a first timer, a Seasonic or a Corsair AX psu can be a bear, what with those pins that refuse to come out and the double wiring. Based on NewHighScore and Lutro0's previous comments on a PSU that is easier to sleeve - has a 1 to 1 pinout - Silverstone Strider, and for dual 690s, I'd say the Silverstone Strider 1500.


----------



## jfry94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> for dual 690s, I'd say the Silverstone Strider 1500.


the the max power usage is 300w so would 850w be enought till i can get a higher rated one. if not il just use one card till i can.

this upgrade wont be happening till after xmas if i can get the money for them


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*


The reviews I have read on that PSU are very good. I am really leaning towards getting it but I saw pictures and it doesn't have a on and off switch on the back, which I really don't know whether I should worry about or not.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> For a first timer, a Seasonic or a Corsair AX psu can be a bear, what with those pins that refuse to come out and the double wiring. Based on NewHighScore and Lutro0's previous comments on a PSU that is easier to sleeve - has a 1 to 1 pinout - Silverstone Strider, and for dual 690s, I'd say the Silverstone Strider 1500.


Is it worth it to try and sell my AX850 and pick up a Strider? Or should I just push through and keep fighting it.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Is it worth it to try and sell my AX850 and pick up a Strider? Or should I just push through and keep fighting it.


I think you should finish it if you already started it. If it becomes too challenging then I would. Based on what other people said, I am leaning towards getting the Strider instead of the AX750.


----------



## Tator Tot

For Dual GTX 690's you'd want to get something like the Strider Gold 1000w or Strider Gold Evolution 1000w.

The Evolution model is better in a few regards (fan, performance, build quality) but they're all minor improvements / steps forward.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> The reviews I have read on that PSU are very good. I am really leaning towards getting it but I saw pictures and it doesn't have a on and off switch on the back, which I really don't know whether I should worry about or not.


Honestly I found the lack of power switch really unattractive myself.. I did not like the idea of it at all but now that I have it and have been crunching for over 2 days straight and gaming and easy depinning I am really happy with it! And my previous was AX750 so that is saying a lot!


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

I'm looking for a good guide to sleeving SATA power cables, anyone know of any?


----------



## socketus

hmm, I found this - its an australian link

http://www.gam.net.au/pcmods/satapower/index.html

here's a youtube about a guy starting out with his own created cable, using the australian link's tutorial






Here's a post with the molex part #s for the power cable

http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/200#post_18126187

those part #s came from here -
http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#sata

interestingly enough, I can't find - quickly - a Lutro0 sata power sleeving guide


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Here's a post with the molex part #s for the power cable
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/200#post_18126187
> 
> those part #s came from here -
> http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#sata


I only see the "Crimp type SATA power connector: 67582-0000" on the playtool site.


----------



## socketus

Here's the full post with the playtools link

http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/40#post_17399579


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Thanks socketus, I was looking for a guide to individually sleeving the cables though. I still couldn't find anything so I decided to go ahead and try to make something up, I'll post some pics when I get home. In the SATA Data Cable sleeving video, I remember Lutro0 saying he didn't have enough time to film a SATA power cable video, but it is in the works.


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

OK guys here's what I did for the SATA power cables. On the PSU side I used the heatshrinkless method on the EPS pins, nothing new there. However, I measured the sleeve from the PSU side pin to about where the wire met up with the first SATA power connector. After attaching the sleeve to the PSU side, I stretched the sleeve up then just put some heatshrink over it to get it to hold. However on some of them the heatshrink wasn't gripping the wire very well, so I pulled the heatshrink back, put some superglue on the exposed wire, then quickly slid it back up to get it to stick. For the end connector I did the same thing, except instead of using EPS pins from the PSU side I used the SATA power pins, which were really easy to pull out and sleeve, again with the heatshrinless method. Here are the results:



















Does it looks great? No, I admit the heatshrink does look sloppy, but it's functional and I'm happy with it.


----------



## socketus

Good Job PS ! nothing like doing it yourself


----------



## WebsterXC

Good job, especially on the ends of the cables!


----------



## 350 Malibu

Some more playing around I did tonight... Still waiting for my black connectors.








I don't know what I was thinking on this one...








Very patriotic...


----------



## Sevada88

Those look simply excellent! Well done.

Are you, by any chance, from the Netherlands?


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> Those look simply excellent! Well done.
> Are you, by any chance, from the Netherlands?


No, the US, lol.


----------



## 350 Malibu

Today's work. Rampage IV / Maximus V Series Naturally Curved Extension kit

Main connector (24Pin) 12" Extension
8-Pin ATX/EPS 12V 12" Extension
4-Pin ATX/EPS 12V 12" Extension
2x 8-Pin PCI-E 12" Extension






This hobby is getting very addictive. Next something black and white...


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> Today's work. Rampage IV / Maximus V Series Naturally Curved Extension kit
> Main connector (24Pin) 12" Extension
> 8-Pin ATX/EPS 12V 12" Extension
> 4-Pin ATX/EPS 12V 12" Extension
> 2x 8-Pin PCI-E 12" Extension
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This hobby is getting very addictive. Next something black and white...


lol... you should make me some... for my upcoming build.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> Today's work. Rampage IV / Maximus V Series Naturally Curved Extension kit
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Main connector (24Pin) 12" Extension
> 8-Pin ATX/EPS 12V 12" Extension
> 4-Pin ATX/EPS 12V 12" Extension
> 2x 8-Pin PCI-E 12" Extension
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This hobby is getting very addictive. Next something black and white...


might i ask where you got the extensions from? like the wires/connectors?


----------



## BuToNz

Sleeved my GPU power...


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> might i ask where you got the extensions from? like the wires/connectors?


Sure, but I don't use pre-made extensions. They are actually hand made from scratch. I order top quality wire, pins, connectors from various vendors. I use color matched wire so there is no color bleed through on the sleeve (I use MDPC-X sleeve). I measure and utilize the natural curve of each wire to achieve the perfect bend for the extension. I crimp each pin/socket to match the correct connector orientation in the application it will be used on. Lots of work, but the results are absolutely stunning.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> Sure, but I don't use pre-made extensions. They are actually hand made from scratch. I order top quality wire, pins, connectors from various vendors. I use color matched wire so there is no color bleed through on the sleeve (I use MDPC-X sleeve). I measure and utilize the natural curve of each wire to achieve the perfect bend for the extension. I crimp each pin/socket to match the correct connector orientation in the application it will be used on. Lots of work, but the results are absolutely stunning.


Wow a real perfectionist! I bet it is worth the results. Do you sell them or do for yourself. How come you don't do whole custom cables instead of just extensions?


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Wow a real perfectionist! I bet it is worth the results. Do you sell them or do for yourself. How come you don't do whole custom cables instead of just extensions?


I do whole cables as well as extensions.


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

I finished sleeving my AX750


----------



## kyismaster

Papa, I am inspired by your dedication.


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Thanks!

This project really only took me a couple days, I got my MDPC package in on the 5th and I finished last night, the 10th. I was expecting this to take weeks, but I was done in 5 days!









Next up are those pesky front panel connectors!


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> This project really only took me a couple days, I got my MDPC package in on the 5th and I finished last night, the 10th. I was expecting this to take weeks, but I was done in 5 days!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up are those pesky front panel connectors!


Getting the heatshrink to look nice is tricky with the front panel connections...The way I do it is use 1.5cm of heatshrink and overlap the black connector by about a third, this keeps the connector flopping around and also holds the sleeivng in place nicely.

You may need to stretch the heatshrink a bit to fit over the connector. This way you can make the sleeve run the full length of the cable then there is no 'kink' where the heatshrink is.

Quick picture of what I mean (Don't have a good enough camera of my own to photo my connections) - I'm not very good at explaining!


Hope that's useful









By the way fantastic work on it so far! Love the colour scheme.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> I finished sleeving my AX750
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sleeving looks great, and so does the build.


----------



## WebsterXC

Absolutely beautiful Papa


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> This project really only took me a couple days, I got my MDPC package in on the 5th and I finished last night, the 10th. I was expecting this to take weeks, but I was done in 5 days!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up are those pesky front panel connectors!


Looks great. Gives me inspiration to get off my butt and finish my cosmos build!


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Wow wasn't expecting such awesome feedback, thank you very much everybody! And Butonz thanks for the tip with the front-panel stuff, I'll makes sure I post some pictures of that once those are done!


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> Wow wasn't expecting such awesome feedback, thank you very much everybody! And Butonz thanks for the tip with the front-panel stuff, I'll makes sure I post some pictures of that once those are done!


No problem Papa, I thought I'd make the extra effort and show you some pictures of what I've just done...Hope you like the results!


----------



## PCModderMike

Paracord? Looks good.


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Paracord? Looks good.


It is indeed, thanks! Crappy camera doesn't do it justice, still on the list is to do some cable management....


----------



## tig33r

It's a iphone, not a camera








Looks good indeed.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> Sure, but I don't use pre-made extensions. They are actually hand made from scratch. I order top quality wire, pins, connectors from various vendors. I use color matched wire so there is no color bleed through on the sleeve (I use MDPC-X sleeve). I measure and utilize the natural curve of each wire to achieve the perfect bend for the extension. I crimp each pin/socket to match the correct connector orientation in the application it will be used on. Lots of work, but the results are absolutely stunning.


Sounds familiar...









Also, if you advertise on OCN you may want to read the TOS and grab an artisan account. They are cheap and will allow you to freely sell on this site.


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Sounds familiar...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, if you advertise on OCN you may want to read the TOS and grab an artisan account. They are cheap and will allow you to freely sell on this site.


Thanks for the info.







Oh by the way you're the reason I'm now addicted to this...


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> Thanks for the info.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh by the way you're the reason I'm now addicted to this...


It happens, just take it in strides. I have seen so many people jump into selling them without adding up their costs and time (and if they are done right we both know they take allot of time), and I have seen everyone burn out and close within a short amount of time. But it can always be prevented.


----------



## socketus

Check out these great looking & very functional cable clips

His rig is in the CSQ contest site, and I tracked his name to his build log on an Italian modding site. He used his uncle's cnc mill to make these beauties, I'd surely like to have something like that.
Apart from tying or sewing your cables together, modsmart has a 3wire and 4 wire cable bundler that's making an appearance at OCN lately.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Check out these great looking & very functional cable clips
> His rig is in the CSQ contest site, and I tracked his name to his build log on an Italian modding site. He used his uncle's cnc mill to make these beauties, I'd surely like to have something like that.
> Apart from tying or sewing your cables together, modsmart has a 3wire and 4 wire cable bundler that's making an appearance at OCN lately.


Yeah someone here posted a while back and showed pics of the same thing he's doing. (same guy? IDK)
I don't have a mill or cnc but I've thought of doing it with my drill press. I think drilling would be no problem but splitting the piece afterwards for a close fit would be tough for me. Haven't given it too much thought, though.

Looking at it again seems like he ran the cables through before putting them in the connectors. I get it.


----------



## BuToNz

Would be interested if someone would make some of these for people here, I'd certainly have a large order.


----------



## Axehand

Hey lads, any guides out there for sleeving without heat shrink? I think you use the crimpers to secure the sleeve?


----------



## yanks8981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axehand*
> 
> Hey lads, any guides out there for sleeving without heat shrink? I think you use the crimpers to secure the sleeve?


they are definitely out there. I thought the crimpers were used at first as well. It seems that you just heat the end up enough where it gets soft and twist the sleeve and it sort of melts to the wire... I did this on a few wires for my sata connector since I couldnt get the shrink into the connector. Leaves some nice burns on the finger tips


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axehand*
> 
> Hey lads, any guides out there for sleeving without heat shrink? I think you use the crimpers to secure the sleeve?


In this very forum...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions
http://www.overclock.net/t/1262904/video-sleeving-guide-series


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> Would be interested if someone would make some of these for people here, I'd certainly have a large order.


I'm sure dwood can easily make those.


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I'm sure dwood can easily make those.


Do you happen to know if he ships to the UK?


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> Do you happen to know if he ships to the UK?


I believe so. I would give him a try if I were you. I could see him making this a regularly produced item on his website.

Give him a shoot on the forum or check out his website.

http://triptcc.com/


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I believe so. I would give him a try if I were you. I could see him making this a regularly produced item on his website.
> Give him a shoot on the forum or check out his website.
> http://triptcc.com/


Just dropped him an email via the site, out of interest who else would be interested in getting some made up?

I'd love to get some smoke/tinted clear for my spacers.


----------



## NewHighScore

Actually I would give those a try I would probably buy a couple depending on the price.


----------



## protzman

that build is redic! that routing of water through the acrylic is so awesome, the front of that case, friggin awesome! such a nice build!


----------



## ixsis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> Just dropped him an email via the site, out of interest who else would be interested in getting some made up?
> I'd love to get some smoke/tinted clear for my spacers.


I'd be in for a few in black


----------



## BuToNz

Good news, Dwood has got back to me and he's happy to make some. Just sorting out the logistics, anyone else interested just post here and I'll collect some names.


----------



## NewHighScore

Any clue on price?


----------



## socketus

well, you know it'll be cheap. Lets get em in 12 cable and 6 and 8 cable sizes for the pci-express cabling. Or would it be in 4 and 3 cables ?

I'm in for a bushel of these cable connectors by DWood - and I do mean a bushel ! they're so damm cool looking









Way to run with an idea, BuToNz


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> well, you know it'll be cheap. Lets get em in 12 cable and 6 and 8 cable sizes for the pci-express cabling. Or would it be in 4 and 3 cables ?
> I'm in for a bushel of these cable connectors by DWood - and I do mean a bushel ! they're so damm cool looking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Way to run with an idea, BuToNz


Might I make a suggestion and have you guys move this to the artisan forum and make a thread, or make a new thread for it. A group buy is an awesome idea - but this thread isnt for that.


----------



## jfry94

il be interested in some but the postage to the uk is going to be redonkulus, im just going to make some when i get round to sleeving my psu. it wont be until after xmas but i will post pics.

I'm thinking that instead of using so many i could just make a few for the individual cables, make big one's incorporating all of the cable's for the cable routing hole's that are beside and below my motherboard.

and fix it using some of the H shaped rubber strip for case windows.


----------



## mordocai rp

I'm in for a set of those spacers, also acrylic tubing looks sick as fuark


----------



## BuToNz

My apologies peeps! Please drop a post here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1326861/sleeving-spacers-by-dwood-group-buy-discussion/0_20


----------



## PCModderMike

I've seen some great examples of shrinkless paracord sleeving in here....so I decided to pick some up and I'm gonna give it a try.


----------



## eskamobob1

^ where did you order from? im looking for someplace where i can restock (i ran out of black and i never had the orange i need for my next build... not to mention im out of blue and red as well)


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> ^ where did you order from? im looking for someplace where i can restock (i ran out of black and i never had the orange i need for my next build... not to mention im out of blue and red as well)


It's the 550 from Amazon.com


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> It's the 550 from Amazon.com


ty


----------



## carpenj

Okay so before you remove all the cables on a connector (say the 24-pin), how do you keep up with which cable will go where when you're done? Like there are 5 reds, 8 blacks, etc. on mine. How do you know which went where when it's all done with, or are all the red cables the same, all the black cables the same, and the two larger orange the same (and two smaller orange the same)?


----------



## Hanoverfist

MDPC just showed up.. The Pictures I have seen, did not do this Justice.. Its Absolutely Beautiful Stuff.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> ty


You're welcome









Looks good Hanoverfist.


----------



## carpenj

Hanoverfist, how long did that stuff take to ship to you? I'm waiting anxiously on mine right now!


----------



## Axehand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carpenj*
> 
> Hanoverfist, how long did that stuff take to ship to you? I'm waiting anxiously on mine right now!


More than two weeks if your in Australia.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carpenj*
> 
> Okay so before you remove all the cables on a connector (say the 24-pin), how do you keep up with which cable will go where when you're done? Like there are 5 reds, 8 blacks, etc. on mine. How do you know which went where when it's all done with, or are all the red cables the same, all the black cables the same, and the two larger orange the same (and two smaller orange the same)?


Usually if you have a large cable and a small cable going to the same pin on a connector, it means the small one is a V-Sense line.

The easiest way to keep track of which is to number each pin based on their spot in the connector with tape.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carpenj*
> 
> Hanoverfist, how long did that stuff take to ship to you? I'm waiting anxiously on mine right now!


11 days to South Dakota.. It's well worth the Wait..


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> 11 days to South Dakota.. It's well worth the Wait..


Took mine about 14 days to Upstate New York. I have to agree, this stuff is gorgeous and a dream to work with. I'm glad I decided to invest in the stuff.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carpenj*
> 
> Okay so before you remove all the cables on a connector (say the 24-pin), how do you keep up with which cable will go where when you're done? Like there are 5 reds, 8 blacks, etc. on mine. How do you know which went where when it's all done with, or are all the red cables the same, all the black cables the same, and the two larger orange the same (and two smaller orange the same)?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*
> 
> Usually if you have a large cable and a small cable going to the same pin on a connector, it means the small one is a V-Sense line.
> 
> The easiest way to keep track of which is to number each pin based on their spot in the connector with tape.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1128129/


This ^^ and I read one guy's post on how he does it - he works on 1 wire at a time, which means he only has 1 cable pulled from its connector at a time, and he sleeves it and puts it back in.
Might be easier for you to try the make-your-own-wire-set approach - buy the wiring, the pins and connectors, and sleeve those acc to your desired lengths. One advantage of this method is that you can pick the wire color to minimize bleed thru of its color thru the sleeving.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> 11 days to South Dakota.. It's well worth the Wait..


Another South Dakotan!

Less than 2 weeks is normal for me as well.


----------



## huzzug

okay, i was goinf for paracord and in the market i came accross these, and now i want the opinion as to whether these would suffice for the purpose


----------



## nawon72

*PC Crimping Part Numbers List*



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> *Work in progress. Please post any feedback, changes, or additions you may have.*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: PC Crimping Part Numbers List
> 
> 
> 
> *Information may not be accurate. DO NOT USE YET.*
> 
> *P**C Crimping Part Numbers*
> 
> *CONTENTS*
> 
> *1. Fans*
> 
> *1.1* 4Pin
> 
> *1.1.1* Case
> 
> *1.1.2* GPU
> 
> *1.2* 3Pin
> 
> *1.3* Crimp Terminals
> 
> *1.3.1* Case
> 
> *1.3.2* GPU
> 
> *1.4* Extraction & Insertion Tools
> 
> *2. 4Pin Peripheral*
> 
> *2.1* Molex Crimp Housings
> 
> *2.2 * AMP/TE Crimp Housings
> 
> *2.3 * Crimp Terminals
> 
> *2.3.1* Molex
> 
> *2.3.2 * AMP/TE
> 
> *2.4 * Molex Extraction & Insertion Tools
> 
> *3. ATX*
> 
> *3.1 * 20+4 Pin ATX
> 
> *3.2 * 24 Pin ATX
> 
> *3.2.1* Molex
> 
> *3.2.2* AMP/TE
> 
> *3.3 * 24 Pin ATX
> 
> *3.4 * 6+2 Pin PCI Express
> 
> *3.5 * 6 Pin PCI Express
> 
> *3.6 * 8 Pin PCI Express
> 
> *3.7 * 8 Pin EPS +12 Volt
> 
> *3.7.1 * Molex
> 
> *3.7.2 * AMP/TE
> 
> *3.8 * 4+4 Pin +12 Volt
> 
> *3.9* PSU Specific Crimp Housings
> 
> *3.9.1 * SeaSonic
> 
> *3.10 * Crimp Terminals
> 
> *3.10.1* Molex
> 
> *3.10.2 * AMP/TE
> 
> *3.11 * Extraction & Insertion Tools
> 
> *4. Sata Power*
> 
> *4.1* Connectors
> 
> *4.2* Crimp Housings and Terminals
> 
> *4.3* Extraction & Insertion Tools
> 
> *5. Other*
> 
> *5.1 * Motherboard Crimp Housings (Connectors)
> 
> *5.2* Motherboard Connector Crimp Terminals
> 
> *6. Where to Buy*
> 
> *6.1* North America
> 
> *6.2* Europe
> 
> *6.3* Other
> 
> *7. References*
> 
> *7.1* Fans
> 
> *7.2 * 4Pin Peripheral
> 
> *7.3 * ATX
> 
> *7.4 * Sata Power
> 
> *7.5 * Other
> 
> *1. FANS*
> 
> *1.1 4Pin*
> 
> *1.1.1* *Case*
> 
> 
> ??? 47053-1000 - Male, PCB Header
> ??? 47054-1000 - Female, Crimp Housing, Ivory
> 22-01-3047 - Female, Crimp Housing, Natural (White)
> 50-29-1559 - Female, Crimp Housing, Black
> 
> *1.1.2* *GPU*
> 
> 
> 51004-0400 - Female, Crimp Housing, Natural (White)?
> 
> *1.2 3Pin*
> 
> 
> 22-23-2031 - Male, PCB Header, Natural (White)
> 
> 22-01-3037 - Female, Crimp Housing, Natural (White)
> 50-29-1558 - Female, Crimp Housing, Black
> 
> *1.3 Crimp Terminals*
> 
> * 1.3.1* *Case*
> 
> 
> 08-50-0113 - Female, Reel
> 08-50-0114 - Female, Loose Piece
> 
> *1.3.2* *GPU*
> 
> 
> 50011-8000 - Female, Reel
> 50011-8100 - Female, Loose Piece
> 
> *1.4 Extraction & Insertion Tools*
> 
> 
> 11-03-0022 - Extraction
> 63812-0000 - Insertion
> 
> *2. 4PIN PERIPHERAL*
> 
> *2.1 Molex Crimp Housings*
> 
> 
> 15-24-4048 - Female, Natural (White)
> 
> *2.2 AMP/TE Crimp Housings*
> 
> 
> 1-480424-0 - Male, Natural (White)
> 1-480424-9 - Male, Black
> 1-480426-0 - Female, Natural (White)
> 1-480426-9 - Female, Black
> 
> *2.3 Crimp Terminals*
> 
> *2.3.1 Molex*
> 
> 
> 02-06-2101 - Male, Reel
> 02-06-2103 - Male, Loose Piece
> 02-08-1201 - Female, Reel
> 
> *2.3.2 AMP/TE*
> 
> 
> 60620-1 - Male, Loose Piece
> 60619-1 - Female, Loose Piece
> 
> *2.4 Molex Extraction & Insertion Tools*
> 
> 
> 11-03-0002 - Male, Extraction
> 11-03-0037 - Female, Extraction
> 
> *3. ATX*
> 
> *3.1 20+4 Pin*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *3.2 24 Pin*
> 
> * 3.2.1 Molex*
> 
> 
> 39-28-1243 - Male, PCB Header, V2, Natural (White)
> 
> 39-01-2240 - Female, Crimp Housing, V2, Natural (White)
> 39-01-2245 - Female, Crimp Housing, V0, Ivory
> 
> 50-36-1667 - Female, Crimp Housing, V0, Black
> 
> * 3.2.2 AMP/TE*
> 
> 
> 2-2029091-4 - Female, Crimp Housing, V2, Red
> 2-2029094-4 - Female, Crimp Housing, V0, Red
> 
> 2-2029097-4 - Female, Crimp Housing, V2, Blue
> 2-2029100-4 - Female, Crimp Housing, V0, Blue
> 
> *3.3 20 Pin*
> 
> 
> 39-01-2200 - Female, Crimp Housing, V2, Natural (White)
> 39-01-2205 - Female, Crimp Housing, V0, Ivory
> 39-01-3205 - Female, Crimp Housing, V2, Black
> 
> *3.4 6+2 Pin PCI Express*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *3.5 6 Pin PCI Express*
> 
> 
> 45558-0003 - Male, PCB Header, Black, For use with video cards
> 45559-0002 - Female, Crimp Housing, Black
> 
> *3.6** 8 Pin PCI Express*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *3.7** 8 Pin EPS +12 Volt*
> 
> *3.7.1** Molex*
> 
> 
> 39-28-1083 - Male, PCB Header, V2, Natural (White)
> 39-01-2080 - Female, Crimp Housing, V2, Natural (White)
> 
> 39-01-2085 - Female, Crimp Housing, V0, Ivory
> 39-01-3085 - Female, Crimp Housing, V2, Black
> 50-36-1713 - Female, Crimp Housing, V0, Black
> 
> * 3.7.2 AMP/TE*
> 
> 
> 2029091-8 - Female, Crimp Housing, V2, Red
> 2029094-8 - Female, Crimp Housing, V0, Red
> 2029097-8 - Female, Crimp Housing, V2, Blue
> 2029100-8 - Female, Crimp Housing, V0, Blue
> 
> *3.8* *4+4 Pin +12 volt*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *3.9 PSU Specific Crimp Housings*
> 
> *3.9.1 SeaSonic*
> 
> 
> 50-36-1669 - 16 Pin, Black, PSU Side 24 pin
> 50-36-1674 - 12 Pin, Black, PSU Side Dual PCIe
> 50-36-1671 - 10 Pin, Black, PSU Side 24 pin
> 
> 50-36-1672 - 6 Pin, Black, Sata & 4 Pin Molex Power, NOT PCIe Compatible
> 
> *3.10 Crimp Terminals*
> 
> *3.10.1** Molex*
> 
> 
> 39-00-0040 - Male, Reel
> 39-00-0041 - Male, Loose Piece
> 39-00-0038 - Female, Reel
> 39-00-0039 - Female, Loose Piece
> 
> *3.10.2 AMP/TE*
> 
> 
> 794956-1 - Female, Reel
> 1586315-1 - Female, Loose Piece
> 
> *3.11* *Extraction & Insertion Tools*
> 
> 
> 11-03-0044 - Male/Female, Extraction
> 
> V0 = Higher resistance to flame continuance then V2 (Will extinguish quicker)
> A V2 part number is referenced in ATX v2.2
> 
> *4. SATA POWER*
> 
> *4.1 Connectors & Accesories*
> 
> 
> 67926-0001 - Connector, Punch Down/"T" Plug, Latch
> 67926-0011 - Connector, Punch Down/"T" Plug, Bump
> 
> 67926-0041 - Accesory, Pass Through Cap/Cover
> 67926-0040 - Accesory, End Cap/Cover
> 88757-7810 - SATA to Pigtail, 3.3V, It's 67926-0011 With a 1.5m Pigtail
> 88751-1410 - SATA to Pigtail, It's 67926-0011 With a 1.5m Pigtail
> 
> * 4.2 Crimp Housings and Terminals*
> 
> 
> 67582-0000 - Housing
> 67581-0000 - Terminal, Reel, For Use With 67582-0000*
> 
> *4.3 Extraction & Insertion Tools*
> 
> 
> 63813-2700 - Extraction
> 
> *there are many different crimp terminals with different plating. They are all part of the 67581 product line.
> 
> *5. OTHER*
> 
> *5.1 Motherboard Crimp Housings (Connectors)*
> 
> 
> M20-1060100 Through M20-1061200 - 1 to 12 Contacts (Pins)
> 
> *5.2 Motherboard Connector Crimp Terminals*
> 
> 
> M20-1180042 - Loose Piece, Gold Plated
> M20-1180046 - Loose Piece, Tin Plated
> 
> *6. WHERE TO BUY - See this thread*
> 
> * 6.1 North America*
> 
> 
> NewArk
> Allied Electronics
> Digi-Key
> Online Components
> 
> *6.**2 Europe*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> * 6.3 Other*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *7. References**
> 
> * 7.1 Fans*
> 
> 
> http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/022013037_sd.pdf
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1327420/pc-crimping-part-numbers-list/0_20#post_18607902
> 
> * 7.2 4Pin Peripheral*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> * 7.3 ATX*
> 
> 
> http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/039012245_sd.pdf
> http://cables.hillsidekonnection.com/atx-quick.html
> 
> * 7.4 SATA Power*
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/200_20#post_18126187
> 
> * 7.5 Other*
> 
> *7.5.1** Motherboard Crimp Housings (Connectors)*
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/662039/cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion/7580_20#post_17610917
> 
> * 7.5.2 Motherboard Connector Crimp Terminals*
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/120_20#post_17696273
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/120_20#post_17699968
> 
> http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1136451/molex-atx-power-supply-connectors-and-part-numbers/0_20
> 
> **Some references are missing.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you would like me to find a particular part number, then request it in this thread. Priority goes to the most requested part numbers.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Another South Dakotan!
> Less than 2 weeks is normal for me as well.


YES..







. Close to you too...


----------



## ZeVo

Can you sleeve cables by just taking one cable at a time and doing it like that? I'm afraid if I do the 24pin I'll get confused on the cables.


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Can you sleeve cables by just taking one cable at a time and doing it like that? I'm afraid if I do the 24pin I'll get confused on the cables.


TBH, I took one out @ a time, just so I would not forget which wire went where.


----------



## WebsterXC

I think that's how most people do it. That's how I've always done it to be honest, there's a lot less stress and a lot less worrying about which pins go where and if you screwed something up. I like to make precut lengths: cut one length that's perfect for the cable you're sleeving, take the sleeve off the cable and use that as the "master" piece of sleeving. Then cut a whole bunch of pieces of sleeving the same length as your master and sleeve away


----------



## Locksmiff

I am sleeving up my wifes Silverstone Strider and decided to start on the PCIE 8 and 6 pin connectors. Is there any reason why I can't rearranged the black earth wires around in the plug with other black earth wires.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Locksmiff*
> 
> I am sleeving up my wifes Silverstone Strider and decided to start on the PCIE 8 and 6 pin connectors. Is there any reason why I can't rearranged the black earth wires around in the plug with other black earth wires.


They're all the same, so it doesn't matter.


----------



## BuToNz

Sleeved SATA power just now, pretty sure I could of made it completely heatshrinkless but chickened out not thinking the molex end would hold - It will I'm sure of it. Might take it off but it doesn't matter much as it'll be hidden.


----------



## NewHighScore

I'd have to say that heatshrinkless side outshines the shrinked side by far.







Looks great. I just started my sleeving last night it makes me think I should have went shrinkless







.


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I'd have to say that heatshrinkless side outshines the shrinked side by far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks great. I just started my sleeving last night it makes me think I should have went shrinkless
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Completely agree, the shrinkless side looks much better. If it was on show I'd remove it as it is holding on without. Just put it there for peace of mind, did quite a sloppy job of it too. Compared to my original 'test' piece...


----------



## NewHighScore

Just wanted to share some of my pics from sleeving yesterday. Did custom length wires and all. Heatshrink is far from perfect. I barely got through doing the cables themselves with lots of trouble on my first few cables. I did not have the patience to make it perfect although I may solder that double wire lutroO style.

Also I highly recommend anyone who doesn't have a lutroO tool to get one. I sure wish I had.


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*


Where did then rest of the heathshrink go on the bottom two pins?!

Colour choice and length is amazing, are you having difficulty with the heatshrink? Did you get your own or it that MDPC stuff?

*:EDIT: Nevermind! Didn't realise they were double wires.
*
You should try 'stretching' one end of the heatshrink to fit over both wires (So 1 piece of heatshrink going into the connector).


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> Where did then rest of the heathshrink go on the bottom two pins?!
> Colour choice and length is amazing, are you having difficulty with the heatshrink? Did you get your own or it that MDPC stuff?


Thanks a bunch. You should see my 8 pin cpu power. It's 48" long so it can tuck away neatly routed along the outer edges at the back of my mobo tray.

That's a double wire pin so I could not get any heatshrink to insert into the pin socket. I could barely get the pin in itself I had to heat it up with the heatgun to get the rubber coating on the wire soft enough to get it in. I might solder the 2 wires together lutroO style it in the future so I get a single wire insert in there.


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Thanks a bunch. You should see my 8 pin cpu power. It's 48" long so it can tuck away neatly routed along the outer edges at the back of my mobo tray.
> That's a double wire pin so I could not get any heatshrink to insert into the pin socket. I could barely get the pin in itself I had to heat it up with the heatgun to get the rubber coating on the wire soft enough to get it in. I might solder the 2 wires together lutroO style it in the future so I get a single wire insert in there.


It's damn nice looking, I've had a peek at your build log and it's going to look fantastic. Love the way your build looks, rarely see anyone go for yellow


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> It's damn nice looking, I've had a peek at your build log and it's going to look fantastic. Love the way your build looks, rarely see anyone go for yellow


Thanks a bunch. I am hoping to get the rest of it done today but I ordered a custom PSU cover with a 4xSSD mount underneath and I'm not sure where it is mounted so it is preventing me from doing my molex and sata power cables. I also am not sure how I will route my gpu cables yet. Maybe I should just get onto doing the fans. :\

Do you have a build log going? You should at least fill out your rig thingy


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> Sleeved SATA power just now, pretty sure I could of made it completely heatshrinkless but chickened out not thinking the molex end would hold - It will I'm sure of it. Might take it off but it doesn't matter much as it'll be hidden.


I really like the color scheme,nice work!!!!!


----------



## strych9

Sleeved an extension for a client yesterday:


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strych9*
> 
> Sleeved an extension for a client yesterday:


Grand!


----------



## Badwrench

A lot of good work going on in here. Been a while since I added to this thread, but I am changing things up a bit.

New color combo (Teal and Rust Brown):



Connectors where white - I dyed them black with some RIT.

Also, sleeved my headphones and changed out the connector for a better one:


----------



## carpenj

It seems like I've seen this somewhere, maybe in one of Lutro0's videos or maybe on this thread...but do you guys recommend wrapping the cables in colored tape that matches the color of the sleeving to avoid any color bleed-through? Thanks!


----------



## NewHighScore

finished all of my major cables. Just need to do fans and a couple of the case cables.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> finished all of my major cables. Just need to do fans and a couple of the case cables.


11/11.


----------



## NewHighScore




----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> finished all of my major cables. Just need to do fans and a couple of the case cables.


Amazing, looks fantastic!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carpenj*
> 
> It seems like I've seen this somewhere, maybe in one of Lutro0's videos or maybe on this thread...but do you guys recommend wrapping the cables in colored tape that matches the color of the sleeving to avoid any color bleed-through? Thanks!


Yes, definitely with plastic sleeving, maybe not so much with paracord, IDK. Here is a front panel audio cable sleeved white, the cable itself is black and wrapped in white electricians tape. But the extra bulk in this case forced me to use SATA sized sleeve.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> finished all of my major cables. Just need to do fans and a couple of the case cables.


Spectacular build NewHighScore. You should link some pics to MSI when it's done considering it's got an MSI sort of theme to it


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Spectacular build NewHighScore. You should link some pics to MSI when it's done considering it's got an MSI sort of theme to it


Thanks INsideJob great idea. I certainly will do that especially considering the custom gpu backplates I have on the way. I ordered 2 just incase I want to SLi in the future.


----------



## InsideJob

Ahh yes I saw this a few days back in Dwoods thread. He did a grand 'ol job on those backplates







MSI should definitely have some interest in your build after getting that installed!

On another note, 47 rep in 3 months!! You sir must be one helpful guy


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Finally done


----------



## MrYakuZa




----------



## kazenagi

This isn't related to any PC Components but it is still cable sleeving nonetheless. I never thought sleeving IEM cables could look so good.







(these aren't mine)


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It looks like you forgot to fully shrink the heatshrink.


----------



## MrYakuZa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> It looks like you forgot to fully shrink the heatshrink.


A little bit if it's true.
The thing is I need to Paracords, heatshrink 4mm ( that is 4.8 mm ) and between the cable and pin a 6mm ( that is 6.4 mm )


----------



## Pr0stex

I think im going to sleeve some SATA cable's, could I use this on the whole cable?
http://www.clasohlson.com/medias/sys_master/8873324511262.jpg

Where should i but the right sleeve kit from Norway?
Or a fast shop who send it Cheap to Norway?


----------



## MrYakuZa

And this is more serious and with a little more experience:














































The famous single cable with double ends of most current PSU.



















But we had a percanse, with the second cable 6 +2 PCI-EX, I broke a pin, I'll have no choice but to purchase cables AWG 18 and pins (so we give more value to the Crimper).


----------



## Lutro0

A little paracord love.


----------



## Toad Boy

First attempt at paracord.

Just working out how to get all the cables lined up, might try sewing them.

Feedback would be great.....


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toad Boy*
> 
> 
> Just working out how to get all the cables lined up, might try sewing them.


Difficult with paracord. I could see sewing them. Plastic sleeve has some rigidity that paracord does not have, albeit more expensive. I have always wondered how solid core wire might work for helping with cable alignment... Hmm, that has me thinking of an experiment now.


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little paracord love.


Very nice!


----------



## evolutionxxx86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little paracord love.


Love the green with black


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrYakuZa*


I have been working on a solution to this...

You can see 8 total cables for the harness, then 7 total connector pins. If anyone is interested I can show how I did this... You'll need a soldering iron/dremel and patience, but it looks pretty good you think?


----------



## 350 Malibu

Edit: I sounded like an idiot...


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> Edit: I sounded like an idiot...


Don't know what you said, but your cable looks good. I'm not sure what you mean by 7 pins though? You mean you only needed 7 but you put the 8th cable in to fill it in? If so then good job.


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toad Boy*
> 
> 
> First attempt at paracord.
> Just working out how to get all the cables lined up, might try sewing them.
> Feedback would be great.....


Looks great! Checkout this group buy: http://www.overclock.net/t/1326861/sleeving-spacers-by-dwood-group-buy-discussion/0_20


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Don't know what you said, but your cable looks good. I'm not sure what you mean by 7 pins though? You mean you only needed 7 but you put the 8th cable in to fill it in? If so then good job.


Yes, I used only 7 connector pins. 2 wires are connected to one pin (the common wires on the +2 connector). It gives the PCIe cable a full 8 wires without the need for an inline splice. You need to do some dremeling on the inside of the PSU connector to make the extra wire on 1 pin fit and look like a normal 8 wires.

A picture is worth a thousand words... Here is the connector pin. 2 wires, one pin. Spaced correctly to allow the normal look of two wires coming out of the connector. Hope that makes since.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> A picture is worth a thousand words... Here is the connector pin. 2 wires, one pin. Spaced correctly to allow the normal look of two wires coming out of the connector. Hope that makes since.


I don't mind doing double wires, but this is a great idea, much cleaner!


----------



## socketus

Since I've never seen such a mutant pin, it makes no SENSE







to me at all - you had to mod that pin, no ?


----------



## 350 Malibu

Yes, pin is modded.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> Yes, pin is modded.


I definitely give you an "A" for craftsmanship.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> Yes, I used only 7 connector pins. 2 wires are connected to one pin (the common wires on the +2 connector). It gives the PCIe cable a full 8 wires without the need for an inline splice. You need to do some dremeling on the inside of the PSU connector to make the extra wire on 1 pin fit and look like a normal 8 wires.
> A picture is worth a thousand words... Here is the connector pin. 2 wires, one pin. Spaced correctly to allow the normal look of two wires coming out of the connector. Hope that makes since.


I love it bud! Out of the box thinking at its very best!


----------



## Lutro0

Some of my latest client work. =)


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Some of my latest client work. =)


Do I see a gap in the black?









Joking! Fantastic work as usual, you can't begin to imagine how hooked you've got me


----------



## eskamobob1

Nice pin mod









And do you guys have any tricks for training the wires of a custom harness before sleeping them? I usually just mount them in place and force then to take the shape, but I was wondering if there is a better way as I will be doing 3 custom harnesses in the near future


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> Nice pin mod
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And do you guys have any tricks for training the wires of a custom harness before sleeping them? I usually just mount them in place and force then to take the shape, but I was wondering if there is a better way as I will be doing 3 custom harnesses in the near future


look at this http://www.overclock.net/t/1326861/sleeving-spacers-by-dwood-group-buy-discussion-taking-orders/60#post_18672227


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> look at this http://www.overclock.net/t/1326861/sleeving-spacers-by-dwood-group-buy-discussion-taking-orders/60#post_18672227


i have looked at these, but if im just being honest i hate the look of them







... I was wondering if there was possibly a specially sleeved wire that you guys use that will hold a form better then typical 18 or 20 gauge wire, but isnt as fragile as a single strand wire... i was also wondering if there was some form of technique for making wires hold a certain shape... i currently just hold them in one place until they stay, but it takes far too long... i was wondering about ever so slightly heating up the casing on the wire so that when it fully re solidifies, it will hold the turn because it will be harder from the denationalization of the plastic sleeve


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> i have looked at these, but if im just being honest i hate the look of them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... I was wondering if there was possibly a specially sleeved wire that you guys use that will hold a form better then typical 18 or 20 gauge wire, but isnt as fragile as a single strand wire... i was also wondering if there was some form of technique for making wires hold a certain shape... i currently just hold them in one place until they stay, but it takes far too long... i was wondering about ever so slightly heating up the casing on the wire so that when it fully re solidifies, it will hold the turn because it will be harder from the denationalization of the plastic sleeve


You could try solid core wire, I thought of trying it but didn't know how the pins would crimp to solid core... If you try it, let us know how it works.









As for the typical stranded 18AWG, there is no voodoo magic, you just have to train it. The tighter the plastic sleeve the better it seems to train. You don't have that option with paracord.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> You could try solid core wire, I thought of trying it but didn't know how the pins would crimp to solid core... If you try it, let us know how it works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the typical stranded 18AWG, there is no voodoo magic, you just have to train it. The tighter the plastic sleeve the better it seems to train. You don't have that option with paracord.


the crimp holds just fine to solid core wire







... i have used it in the past, but it holds the bends the same as stranded and its a bit more fragile... and i sleeve with parachord exclusively (atleast in builds for me) simply because i like the look a lot more







... i guess ill try a few different things and post what i find... im not expecting anything to work, but its worth a shot


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> Do I see a gap in the black?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joking! Fantastic work as usual, you can't begin to imagine how hooked you've got me


I always have a little gap, this allows the client to have a little freedom in placement. =)

My primary goal even though I sell sleeved goods is to get people to do it themselves. Thats the whole point of sharing all the info I learn, as there is nothing compared to doing it yourself and the feeling it gives you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> Nice pin mod
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And do you guys have any tricks for training the wires of a custom harness before sleeping them? I usually just mount them in place and force then to take the shape, but I was wondering if there is a better way as I will be doing 3 custom harnesses in the near future


I just updated the FAQ to reflect this answer.
Quote:


> Training Your Sleeved Cables - How do I train a sleeved cable to bend a certain way and look cleaner? Also, how do I get the same look as the cables that I see in your pictures?
> 
> I get asked the latter question all the time. If you have read through the FAQ you will know by now there is a huge different between an extension and OEM sleeving.
> 
> An extension by design simply extends the existing cable, this allow for a perfect 1-1 pinout that goes straight from one connector to the other. This allows for a perfect looking cable and is one of the reason my sleeved cables pictures look perfect and rainbow or "flow" exactly the way I want them.
> 
> OEM psu sleeving (sleeving the existing cables) however will be a harder task as you are at the mercy of the PSU maker and the pinout they have used. This can make training your cable very difficult. However read the following tips for producing a better result.
> 
> There are eight tips for achieving a good looking cable in terms of organization and training it to "flow" properly.
> 
> *1.* _Tighten the sleeve as much as possible! This will work with plastic sleeve the best - but is still totally possible with paracord if you stretch it right. If you get the right stretch down and do it consistently - the full cable will hold its shape better._
> 
> *2.* _As you are sleeving and putting the wires back into the connector, bend and train the cable as you finish each row. This will give you an upper hand when you end up training the whole cable. To train the cables - simply hold the row in your hand and do slight bends in the direction you want the cable to go all the way from the front of the cable to the back. If done properly it will make the final training of the full cable much easier._
> 
> *3.* _Train, train, and train the finished cable, then come back and do it some more. Do this before you put it in the system and after. For example hold all the rows together and bend in the direction you have been training them by doing slight bends from the front to the back. Once the cable is in the system do the same thing until you get the desired result._
> 
> *4.* _Zip-ties are your friends! If you get handy with some zip ties this will make it easier when its placed into the system - a few well-placed goes a long way. For example, a zip-tie behind the case on a 24pin will bundle the cable some and allow you to train it easier on the facing side._
> 
> *5.* _Learning about wire lengths and how to use them to your advantage will help a long way into getting the cable to bend the way you want. This however takes time and trial and error. For example making one row slightly longer on the outer bend will give you some extra slack to bend the cable in the right direction. This however is mainly for extensions or pcie/ eps cables._
> 
> *6.* _The wire you use will affect how easy it is to train the cable. Try different kinds until you find a stiff cable that is easy to sleeve. However always stick to 18awg, just look for different wire coatings. I would stay away from solid core as they are harder if not impossible to get a good crimp._
> 
> *7.* _If you are doing an OEM PSU you will have to train the parts that are seen and tuck away the other side. This is due to the OEM Pinouts. For example, use a zip tie to hide the twisting and double wires of a 24pin to the back of the case. Then train the exposed cables until the desired effect is achieved._
> 
> *8.* _Make yourself a set of extensions to add onto your OEM sleeved cables. This is the perfect way to get your cables to look professional and get the look you always wanted. This will include making custom length OEM cables and then using the extensions to get the perfect bend. Its more work for sure, but for those that desire nothing less than perfect - this is the only way to go._
> 
> I will be honest however, training a cable is an art. It will take tons of trial and error and practice until you get it down. Even then sometimes with OEM sleeving (sleeving the original cables) the PSU makers pinout will make it very hard and sometimes almost impossible to get a perfect "flow". But, with enough practice you can make it look pleasing.


----------



## eskamobob1

ty for the advice... i will be making custom cables (i only use full modular PSUs), and also using para coard... I train every wire individually before i sleeve and make the cable, so the cabel as a whole will natualy take the shape i want when i put it together... what i have been doing is using zipties and sewing the cables before i sleeve them to hold them inplace where i want... i was just wondering if there was a smaller cable that posibly had an Al braid (like a lot of large scale wires do) that i could use to help keep the training better


----------



## Frequencyz

that's some pretty sexy stuff =)


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> ty for the advice... i will be making custom cables (i only use full modular PSUs), and also using para coard... I train every wire individually before i sleeve and make the cable, so the cabel as a whole will natualy take the shape i want when i put it together... what i have been doing is using zipties and sewing the cables before i sleeve them to hold them inplace where i want... i was just wondering if there was a smaller cable that posibly had an Al braid (like a lot of large scale wires do) that i could use to help keep the training better


I just updated the Sleeving FAQ to reflect your answer more indepth.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I just updated the Sleeving FAQ to reflect your answer more indepth.


tyvm


----------



## Narcolepsy

Whew, two cut fingers on my left hand and a burnt thumb and finger on the right hand and only half of a cable done. I don't know how you guys can stand to do a whole power supply.


----------



## socketus

I haven't tried it yet, but I applaud your sleeving and photo skills


----------



## freitz

Wow Just went through all 800 pages... I was just going to get the MDPC-X holiday kit but now I want to mix it up and do black and red sleevless. Is it easiler for first timers to pull one cable out at a time and sleeve each one then put it back? I fear that I would probably short circuit something if I do full custom Cables.


----------



## InsideJob

I did the once wire at a time method, worked fine for me


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Narcolepsy*
> 
> Whew, two cut fingers on my left hand and a burnt thumb and finger on the right hand and only half of a cable done. I don't know how you guys can stand to do a whole power supply.


Looks great! I had a tiny bit of colour bleed with the white too, it's a shame but barely noticeable.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Wow Just went through all 800 pages... I was just going to get the MDPC-X holiday kit but now I want to mix it up and do black and red sleevless. Is it easiler for first timers to pull one cable out at a time and sleeve each one then put it back? I fear that I would probably short circuit something if I do full custom Cables.


I tried the 1 wire at a time method and it did not work for me. It would mess up other cables I had already done when I was trying to remove others. I ended up pulling every wire and making diagrams of what goes where. Double, triple and quadruple checked everything and no probs here.

I know not a thing about power and electricity.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Wow Just went through all 800 pages... I was just going to get the MDPC-X holiday kit but now I want to mix it up and do black and red sleevless. Is it easiler for first timers to pull one cable out at a time and sleeve each one then put it back? I fear that I would probably short circuit something if I do full custom Cables.


If I were you I would still make myself a diagram in case you get lost at some point. What psu are you going to sleeve? I have a pinout for the Seasonic 1000 since I've done two of them already. There are probably pinouts around for other psu's as well.
The other thing you will want to consider is whether or not the stock wiring is too short or too long. If too short you can get extensions, of course, if too long you will either have to just tuck away the excess or make up custom lengths. You can always shorten the stock cable but of course then you will have to crimp new pins.


----------



## aqualad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Wow Just went through all 800 pages... I was just going to get the MDPC-X holiday kit but now I want to mix it up and do black and red sleevless. Is it easiler for first timers to pull one cable out at a time and sleeve each one then put it back? I fear that I would probably short circuit something if I do full custom Cables.


This is what i did, I was doing the one wire method and it was just driving me crazy because some of the wires were cross and all over the place. I also drew a diagram in addition to pictures.

However you might not feel comfortable pulling it all out, just do it the way you feel comfortable with and have fun.


----------



## Davayy

Eugh, getting PSU covers back on is near on impossible. I can't seem to get the metal casing in properly on all sides, if it goes in the 'runners' on one side, the other side pops out. Any ideas?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Davayy*
> 
> Eugh, getting PSU covers back on is near on impossible. I can't seem to get the metal casing in properly on all sides, if it goes in the 'runners' on one side, the other side pops out. Any ideas?


I Usually go for the precision tool route


----------



## Imrac

Having a collection of precisely engineered tools can make a huge difference in any project.


----------



## TeamBlue

Just wanted to throw this out there since the only options I have seen for a silverstone strider were: Do it yourself (Buy a bunch of tools and excess shrink and pins and sleeving and cuss for a couple days) Buy silverstone's kit (Not-so-hot quality, still not what I wanted) or pay through the nose for some custom cables: I had Ensourced Custom Sleeved Cables make me a set of cables: https://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Ensourced-Custom-Sleeved-Cables/351225731619723?fref=ts for about 130 bucks. I personally couldn't buy the tools and goods necessary for that price, let alone the time. You will have to re-pin them once you get them and splice one wire because of Silverstone's wacky way of doing the 24 pin, but it's a great deal!


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Just wanted to throw this out there since the only options I have seen for a silverstone strider were: Do it yourself (Buy a bunch of tools and excess shrink and pins and sleeving and cuss for a couple days) Buy silverstone's kit (Not-so-hot quality, still not what I wanted) or pay through the nose for some custom cables: I had Ensourced Custom Sleeved Cables make me a set of cables: https://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Ensourced-Custom-Sleeved-Cables/351225731619723?fref=ts for about 130 bucks. I personally couldn't buy the tools and goods necessary for that price, let alone the time. You will have to re-pin them once you get them and splice one wire because of Silverstone's wacky way of doing the 24 pin, but it's a great deal!


Nice. I just received a couple 6-pin extensions from their e-bay store. Best price I could find for extensions, and if they had the colors I am doing, I would have them sleeve them for $1 more! I will post a couple pics tonight to show the quality.


----------



## Hooded

Here is my first attempt at heatshrinkless sleeving.

This a a 24pin form a Seasonix X-Series 660W Gold

It goes to a 10pin and an 18pin connectors to PSU and has 4 double cables in it.


----------



## socketus

oooo!! that looks very noice







how'd you handle the double wires ?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooded*
> 
> Here is my first attempt at heatshrinkless sleeving.
> This a a 24pin form a Seasonix X-Series 660W Gold
> It goes to a 10pin and an 18pin connectors to PSU and has 4 double cables in it.
> -snip-[/URL]


Good job hooded, one of the better jobs ive seen on those cables!


----------



## Hooded

Thank You guys.

And a double thanks to Lutro0's from whom I've learned all.

I handled the double wires just like Lutro does on his Double Wire video.

I soldered the two wires about 4" along from the PSU end


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> My primary goal even though I sell sleeved goods is to get people to do it themselves. Thats the whole point of sharing all the info I learn, as there is nothing compared to doing it yourself and the feeling it gives you.


Now that's what I'm talking About. I am totally onboard with that Philosophy ... And thank you for all that you Have Shared..


----------



## goodtobeking

I think I know the answer, but I want to ask it anyway. It is ok to remove the ferrite beads on the ends of my HX850 cables right?? I am thinking about sleeving the cables but they have those things at the end which wouldnt look very good


----------



## aqualad

Your answer is correct.....Now go start sleeveing away









What the hell..............Mr Moderator can you delete those 3 extra post..

Sorry for the quadruple post... I think i need a new mouse or my trigger finger is itching


----------



## aqualad

Your answer is correct.....Now go start sleeving away


----------



## PCModderMike

Finally making some progress with my sleeving.....slowly but surely.









Wife was at work, so used the bed as my work area.


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Wife was at work, so used the bed as my work area.


I see you've got your sleeving tiara, essential modding apparel.









Lookin' good! Love that purple


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> I see you've got your sleeving tiara, essential modding apparel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lookin' good! Love that purple


LOL yea my daughter let me borrow it for good luck while sleeving







And thanks for the compliment....but it's blue haha, guess the cell phone flash washes the color a bit.


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> LOL yea my daughter let me borrow it for good luck while sleeving
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And thanks for the compliment....but it's blue haha, guess the cell phone flash washes the color a bit.


Must be the tiara magic working


----------



## nezff

I got some green mdpc, and white mdpc left over


----------



## aqualad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Finally making some progress with my sleeving.....slowly but surely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wife was at work, so used the bed as my work area.


Sleeving on the bed.....Man I love this, ain't nothing is going to stop a guy from sleeving








Just be careful bro...and have fun


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aqualad*
> 
> Sleeving on the bed.....Man I love this, ain't nothing is going to stop a guy from sleeving
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just be careful bro...and have fun


Always bud


----------



## Lutro0

Some of my latest client work!


----------



## Demented

Is that 3 shades of grey or black and 2 different greys?

Regardless, looks awesome, as usual!


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Is that 3 shades of grey or black and 2 different greys?
> Regardless, looks awesome, as usual!


50 shades of Lutro0


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Is that 3 shades of grey or black and 2 different greys?
> Regardless, looks awesome, as usual!


It is 2 shades, Light Gray and Titanium Gray. =)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> 50 shades of Lutro0


Isnt that one of those dirty books lol (50 shades of gray that is)


----------



## TwentyCent

Ok guys, been off OCN for a while but got back on since I'm starting a whole case mod. Goes without saying I'm sleeving my cables









Now, I bought a new modular PSU, and I have a question. This might not be the "perfect" thread for it, as it is kind of a GPU/technical question, but this thread has such a good vibe to it that I'm posting here haha. Plus, not sure where else I should post, so please point me in the right direction if needed.








Question: The afore mentionned PSU is the Rosewill Capstone 650W. Unlike my previous PSU, this one features 2 PCI-E cables. Fine. But what has me wondering is that both cables, which are identical, have actually 2 connectors each, connected in serie. Can I go ahead and discard the second connector "attached" to the first one, and use both cables straight from the PSU to each one of the GPU's connectors?

"connectors in serie":


Here's what I mean, hope it's clear...


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> 50 shades of Lutro0










~~








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Some of my latest client work!


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Ok guys, been off OCN for a while but got back on since I'm starting a whole case mod. Goes without saying I'm sleeving my cables
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I bought a new modular PSU, and I have a question. This might not be the "perfect" thread for it, as it is kind of a GPU/technical question, but this thread has such a good vibe to it that I'm posting here haha. Plus, not sure where else I should post, so please point me in the right direction if needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Question: The afore mentionned PSU is the Rosewill Capstone 650W. Unlike my previous PSU, this one features 2 PCI-E cables. Fine. But what has me wondering is that both cables, which are identical, have actually 2 connectors each, connected in serie. Can I go ahead and discard the second connector "attached" to the first one, and use both cables straight from the PSU to each one of the GPU's connectors?
> "connectors in serie":
> 
> Here's what I mean, hope it's clear...


You sure can!
I actually did this on my silverstone strider 1500, it has 4 cables exactly like that. I just use two of them as 6-pin and two of them as 8-pin, works like a champ!


----------



## TwentyCent

Thx!

P.S. voted for you


----------



## carpenj

Who/where are those backplates from? May be just the final touch my build needs!


----------



## carpenj

On a 6-pin modular PCI-E cable, is there a reason the wires don't go to the same place on each end? Like it may go to the top left on one end and the top center on the other. I'd like to connect them to the same places on each side so that everything is straight and neat looking (all the yellows lined up 1-to-1, 2-to-2, 3-to-3 and the blacks 4-to-4, 5-to-5, 6-to-6), but figure'd I'd ask first. Thanks!


----------



## Hamy144

Im having a hard time finding the name or locating some in the Uk of the six pin PCIe cable clips.
Ive seen them used around a few build before, but i cant find any in the Uk at least not where i have briefly looked, could anyone be a dear and give me the exact name of what im talking about and maybe a link?
I know im being quite vague but i have no way to describe them except as being a single clip that holds the six wires for the GPU cables.
Any responses would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carpenj*
> 
> On a 6-pin modular PCI-E cable, is there a reason the wires don't go to the same place on each end? Like it may go to the top left on one end and the top center on the other. I'd like to connect them to the same places on each side so that everything is straight and neat looking (all the yellows lined up 1-to-1, 2-to-2, 3-to-3 and the blacks 4-to-4, 5-to-5, 6-to-6), but figure'd I'd ask first. Thanks!


As long as a yellow cable goes to where a yellow cable was and a black cable goes to were a black cables was you will be fine.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Im having a hard time finding the name or locating some in the Uk of the six pin PCIe cable clips.
> Ive seen them used around a few build before, but i cant find any in the Uk at least not where i have briefly looked, could anyone be a dear and give me the exact name of what im talking about and maybe a link?
> I know im being quite vague but i have no way to describe them except as being a single clip that holds the six wires for the GPU cables.
> Any responses would be greatly appreciated.


Have a pic?


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by Hamy144 View Post
> 
> Im having a hard time finding the name or locating some in the Uk of the six pin PCIe cable clips.
> Ive seen them used around a few build before, but i cant find any in the Uk at least not where i have briefly looked, could anyone be a dear and give me the exact name of what im talking about and maybe a link?
> I know im being quite vague but i have no way to describe them except as being a single clip that holds the six wires for the GPU cables.
> Any responses would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Have a pic?


I'm with lutro0, picture please... I have a ton (months of research) of info on PSU peripheral connectors, but need more info on what you are looking for... Could be simple, or not.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Im having a hard time finding the name or locating some in the Uk of the six pin PCIe cable clips.
> Ive seen them used around a few build before, but i cant find any in the Uk at least not where i have briefly looked, could anyone be a dear and give me the exact name of what im talking about and maybe a link?
> I know im being quite vague but i have no way to describe them except as being a single clip that holds the six wires for the GPU cables.
> Any responses would be greatly appreciated.


Are these what you're talking about? These are "Mod Smart/Kobra"


----------



## NewHighScore

My guess is he is talking about MDPC style wire clips.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Im having a hard time finding the name or locating some in the Uk of the six pin PCIe cable clips.
> Ive seen them used around a few build before, but i cant find any in the Uk at least not where i have briefly looked, could anyone be a dear and give me the exact name of what im talking about and maybe a link?
> I know im being quite vague but i have no way to describe them except as being a single clip that holds the six wires for the GPU cables.
> Any responses would be greatly appreciated.


i would check these out.... probably not what you were origonaly talk about, but the achieve the same goal









http://www.overclock.net/t/1326861/sleeving-spacers-by-dwood-group-buy-discussion


----------



## PCModderMike

Those look great for the 24 pin, but I think he did say something to help manage the PCIe 6 pin specifically.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Those look great for the 24 pin, but I think he did say something to help manage the PCIe 6 pin specifically.


go to the thread i linked........ Dwood makes will probably make any size you ask him to


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> go to the thread i linked........ Dwood makes will probably make any size you ask him to


Any size eh? If I had not already invested in picking up a ton of those Kobra 3 and 4 wire clips, I would probably pursue that.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Any size eh? If I had not already invested in picking up a ton of those Kobra 3 and 4 wire clips, I would probably pursue that.


lol... Dwood make some great stuff... i just found out he does test benches too, and i am ordering one as soon as i get a responce confirming the price


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Im having a hard time finding the name or locating some in the Uk of the six pin PCIe cable clips.
> Ive seen them used around a few build before, but i cant find any in the Uk at least not where i have briefly looked, could anyone be a dear and give me the exact name of what im talking about and maybe a link?
> I know im being quite vague but i have no way to describe them except as being a single clip that holds the six wires for the GPU cables.
> Any responses would be greatly appreciated.


Try Specialtech in the UK http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/search.php?substring=clip
I have the MDPC ones and for the 8-pin it's 12mm internal diameter so I think you want these 9mm ones http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/9mm-Diameter-Black-Nylon-P-Clip--Single-Clip-pid-12923.html


----------



## Stuuut

Need some advice/help on how to sleeve a split cable. Its a PCI-E cable where two holes have 2 cables in it both going to different slots.
Hope that made any sense...


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Are these what you're talking about? These are "Mod Smart/Kobra"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's exactly what i was talking about
a rep to you sir


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Any size eh? If I had not already invested in picking up a ton of those Kobra 3 and 4 wire clips, I would probably pursue that.


First batch is being made as we speak, plenty of sizes available. Pretty sure Dwood will be making these available on his website in the future.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> Need some advice/help on how to sleeve a split cable. Its a PCI-E cable where two holes have 2 cables in it both going to different slots.
> Hope that made any sense...


i dont quite get what your saying from your explination, but im sure we could help if you posted a pic or two of what your are talking about


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> Need some advice/help on how to sleeve a split cable. Its a PCI-E cable where two holes have 2 cables in it both going to different slots.
> Hope that made any sense...


Have you watched all of the LutroO sleeving videos? He covers double wires in one of his videos.


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> Need some advice/help on how to sleeve a split cable. Its a PCI-E cable where two holes have 2 cables in it both going to different slots.
> Hope that made any sense...


----------



## Stuuut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*


Awesome was looking for this


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> Need some advice/help on how to sleeve a split cable. Its a PCI-E cable where two holes have 2 cables in it both going to different slots.
> Hope that made any sense...


splice on my pci-e


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> splice on my pci-e


Very neat, got any pictures of the final result?


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Any size eh? If I had not already invested in picking up a ton of those Kobra 3 and 4 wire clips, I would probably pursue that.


here's the pieces that DWood can make up

http://cdn.overclock.net/2/27/276533db_SleeveSpacers.png

and here's the thread

http://www.overclock.net/t/1326861/sleeving-spacers-by-dwood-group-buy-discussion


----------



## OccultAssassin

Hopefully someone can help me out with this situation. I am going to be creating custom wires for both my PSU power cable and atx cables. My color schemes will be white and blue for the atx cables using 18awg and am going with a white, blue, black scheme for the power cable using 14awg with blue plug ends.

If I order the wire in white will it dull the black sleeving( keep in mind i will be using MDPC) with whatever small amount of bleedthrough there might be? Also does white wire make color sleeving pop?

I know that white wire on white sleeving will make the white sleeving a bit more of a pure white as opposed to white sleeving on black wire will dull the clarity of the whiteness. I know Lutro0 supposedly said something in his FAQ about white sleeving needing certain prep in his FASQ(frequently asked sleeving questions) thread but for the life of me can't find what he was talking about. If someone could help me out there that would be greatly appreciated.

Anyways if anyone wants to give me any advice or their humble opinions that would be great.


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OccultAssassin*
> 
> Hopefully someone can help me out with this situation. I am going to be creating custom wires for both my PSU power cable and atx cables. My color schemes will be white and blue for the atx cables using 18awg and am going with a white, blue, black scheme for the power cable using 14awg with blue plug ends.
> 
> If I order the wire in white will it dull the black sleeving( keep in mind i will be using MDPC) with whatever small amount of bleedthrough there might be? Also does white wire make color sleeving pop?
> 
> I know that white wire on white sleeving will make the white sleeving a bit more of a pure white as opposed to white sleeving on black wire will dull the clarity of the whiteness. I know Lutro0 supposedly said something in his FAQ about white sleeving needing certain prep in his FASQ(frequently asked sleeving questions) thread but for the life of me can't find what he was talking about. If someone could help me out there that would be greatly appreciated.
> Anyways if anyone wants to give me any advice or their humble opinions that would be great.


I just put some white wire into black MDPC to see, you can't even tell it's white wire with the sleeve stretched properly. Black MDPC is one of the best I have seen for hiding wire color. Any reason you can't just order the correct wire color?

mcmaster.com has some of the best wire prices in every color imaginable you can get in 25/50/100ft+ spools.


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> I just put some white wire into black MDPC to see, you can't even tell it's white wire with the sleeve stretched properly. Black MDPC is one of the best I have seen for hiding wire color. Any reason you can't just order the correct wire color?
> mcmaster.com has some of the best wire prices in every color imaginable you can get in 25/50/100ft+ spools.


I was going to order from bulkwire.com or digikey which only has 100' minimum spools and wasn't wanting bulk extra for a small job,but now that you gave me that great resource I think matching color would be very easy and affordable. Thanks!


----------



## mrrockwell

My first attempt on heatsrinkless paracord and sleeving in general. I'm doing all cables on Corsair ax 850.


----------



## ekg84

Sleeved my Ultra x4 with paracord: used shrinkless method, IMO looks ok, what do u guys think?





BTW guys vote for Mod Of The Month here!









http://www.overclock.net/t/1325588/november-2012-mod-of-the-month-poll-up-vote-now/0_50


----------



## Sevada88

Very neat looking build, well done! How is the airflow though, it seems pretty packed.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Sleeved my Ultra x4 with paracord: used shrinkless method, IMO looks ok, what do u guys think?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW guys vote for Mod Of The Month here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1325588/november-2012-mod-of-the-month-poll-up-vote-now/0_50


Looks Better than OK from where I'm sitting..


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Looks Better than OK from where I'm sitting..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> Very neat looking build, well done! How is the airflow though, it seems pretty packed.


Thank you guys! airflow is actually pretty good ever since i removed both hdd cages


----------



## jfry94

I've read all 85 pages of this thread and no one has asked this question. When i resleeve, instead of making cable extensions for my semi modular psu could i just cut the crimps off and solder on the extra length of cable that i need then recrimp?


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfry94*
> 
> I've read all 85 pages of this thread and no one has asked this question. When i resleeve, instead of making cable extensions for my semi modular psu could i just cut the crimps off and solder on the extra length of cable that i need then recrimp?


That is always a viable option or if you're feeling confident enough you could either desolder the connections to the PSU make custom wires and resolder or cut the wires inside the PSU and solder new lengths with crimps from there. Note the last two options will most likely void a warranty.


----------



## mrrockwell

My ax 850 cables all done


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> My ax 850 cables all done


looks very nice, great job!


----------



## BBEG

Just to clarify for this here noob, heatshrink is the little bit of tubing that goes at the end of the sleeved cable to help it fit into the plug, right?


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Just to clarify for this here noob, heatshrink is the little bit of tubing that goes at the end of the sleeved cable to help it fit into the plug, right?


That is correct, but it's purpose isn't to help it go into the connector, it's purpose is to "clamp" down the end of the sleeving to the wire. Generally fitting heatshrink into a connector is more difficult than the shrinkless counterpart.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> That is correct, but it's purpose isn't to help it go into the connector, it's purpose is to "clamp" down the end of the sleeving to the wire. Generally fitting heatshrink into a connector is more difficult than the shrinkless counterpart.


You also use heatshrink with the so-called "heatshrinkless" method, just to protect the sleeve from burning while melting it on to the crimp. When using either method: get loads of heatshrink for learning to sleeve. Whatever you think you need, double that and add some


----------



## 350 Malibu

May not be the correct thread, but this is where I have been sharing stuff. I have been home sick as a dog today with some sort of virus, but luckily I got in a couple packages today and thought I'd share. Some connectors and another color (yellow) from Nils.











As for the connectors, these are all Phobya brand. The pins are the 'short wing' style, and not what I would use due to the lack of crimp on the insulation of a wire.

I ordered these thinking they were true 4+4 pin (the ones that can be split in half and used in an 8 pin or 4 pin Mother board header). Turns out even though the description says 4+4, they are the standard 8 pin EPS connector. I suppose you could split it in half with a dremel...











Next up, the standard PCIe 8 pin connectors, nothing wrong here. Perfect connectors at a good price.



Last, but not least, 6 pin PCIe connectors, but look at these close. I have been searching everywhere for these, they are the exact match to the AX1200 Peripheral connectors with 3 square up on top row, and 3 'D' s on the bottom row and bought them on a whim hoping that the picture was correct (win). So if you need peripheral connectors for your AX1200, these will work. Phobya calls these 'VGA Power Connector 6Pin male (square)', P/N 82357... I currently know of no other source for this type of connector for the AX1200 peripheral, but there may be other suppliers(?).



OK, I'll be quiet now!


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> Last, but not least, 6 pin PCIe connectors, but look at these close. I have been searching everywhere for these, they are the exact match to the AX1200 Peripheral connectors with 3 square up on top row, and 3 'D' s on the bottom row and bought them on a whim hoping that the picture was correct (win). So if you need peripheral connectors for your AX1200, these will work. Phobya calls these 'VGA Power Connector 6Pin male (square)', P/N 82357... I currently know of no other source for this type of connector for the AX1200 peripheral, but there may be other suppliers(?).
> 
> OK, I'll be quiet now!


HUZZAH!







Finally someone found them! I've been looking everywhere for AX1200 connectors! Congrats on the pretty awesome package and I hope you feel better!

+rep for you sir


----------



## jfry94

I've finally chosen my sleeve combo aquamarine and light grey from mdpc. Because it's my first time sleeving i will be buying the bulk packs of these color, would anyone be interested in buying around 40-50m of each color? I expect to have my psu sleeved by mid January at the latest, so it would be available to buy around early jan


----------



## 350 Malibu

Some yellow tonight while I wait for my b-magic to be delivered...


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> Some yellow tonight while I wait for my b-magic to be delivered...


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*


Spilt me tea


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> Spilt me tea


I'm sorry for my ignorance but I am unfamiliar with the saying. Would you care to enlighten me?


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I'm sorry for my ignorance but I am unfamiliar with the saying. Would you care to enlighten me?


*Translation from true Brit English:* I have spilled my mug of warm beverage due to your hilarity.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> *Translation from true Brit English:* I have spilled my mug of warm beverage due to your hilarity.










sorry m8.


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry m8.


Some came out my nose


----------



## jfry94

Would this cable be ok for custom cables http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290768005631?var=590079059117&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649


----------



## jfry94

double post


----------



## jfry94

Triple post


----------



## Fonne

Still trying to find the best colors to my Silverstone SFX 450 Watt 80+ Gold ...


(Not the best camera/picture)

Is looking after a nice matt black sleeve, could really use that ...


----------



## Matrixvibe

After reading the OP. I ordered some sleeving from FurryLetters, it finally arrived several days ago. First time sleever... at first I didn't cut the heatshrink all the same length lol but in the end it's alright. Function over form, I wanted to get it done quick so that I could access my media on my server. Decided to try out sleeving since I was going to make a neater cable with inline SATA power connectors.

Sleeving


Progress


Done


Installed. Now only if there was a way to make the SATA data cables more neat too...


Thanks for this guide/thread!


----------



## adi518

Trying my best to follow Lutro's guide has yielded this:



There's a slight difference between, but I'm content.


----------



## nezff

When doing your sata power, you could have used black wire and stop the sleeving at the first connector.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matrixvibe*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> After reading the OP. I ordered some sleeving from FurryLetters, it finally arrived several days ago. First time sleever... at first I didn't cut the heatshrink all the same length lol but in the end it's alright. Function over form, I wanted to get it done quick so that I could access my media on my server. Decided to try out sleeving since I was going to make a neater cable with inline SATA power connectors.
> Sleeving
> 
> Progress
> 
> Done
> 
> 
> 
> Installed. Now only if there was a way to make the SATA data cables more neat too...
> 
> [SPOILER=Warning: Spoiler!][URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1164551/]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1164551/[/URL][/SPOILER]
> 
> Thanks for this guide/thread![/QUOTE]
> 
> If you were to buy long data cables with 90 degree ends, if there were room, you could run the cables behind or to the front of the hard drives and lead each cable to its connection by running the cable on the bottom of the hard drive from the case's front. I used Silverstone sleeved 20" cables, but you have a rather large stack of hard drives .... but there are cables that are longer than 20"


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> When doing your sata power, you could have used black wire and stop the sleeving at the first connector.


True. It's the best looking method imo.


----------



## adi518

Completed some more sata cables + wd passport usb cable (used cleancut sata size):


----------



## Hanoverfist

Some Newly Acquired Shade19...along with Black and Orange. Love the Looks of it. Heck ,, Love all the MDPC for that Matter...


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Some Newly Acquired Shade19...along with Black and Orange. Love the Looks of it. Heck ,, Love all the MDPC for that Matter...


I am really digging that Orange. I just got the Toxic Green in last week and it is some really beautiful stuff.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> I am really digging that Orange. I just got the Toxic Green in last week and it is some really beautiful stuff.


There needs to be a MDPC color of the month club, where Nils sends out a spool of new color 12 times a year, kind of like Harry & David do with fruits.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> There needs to be a MDPC color of the month club, where Nils sends out a spool of new color 12 times a year, kind of like Harry & David do with fruits.










..


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> There needs to be a MDPC color of the month club, where Nils sends out a spool of new color 12 times a year, kind of like Harry & David do with fruits.


I like the idea.


----------



## geort45

Hi!

Does anyone know where to get these kind of splitters?



I've always wanted some for various "Y" splits, instead of just a simple heatshrink most of us have been doing









Thanks


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Hi!
> Does anyone know where to get these kind of splitters?
> 
> I've always wanted some for various "Y" splits, instead of just a simple heatshrink most of us have been doing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


http://www.qables.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=76_93&zenid=99eb3549631795551d9186b5ffd52171
http://www.viablue.de/com/splitter_sc2.shtml
http://www.avoutlet.com/ <-Specifically search Furez looks like this:


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OccultAssassin*
> 
> http://www.qables.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=76_93&zenid=99eb3549631795551d9186b5ffd52171
> http://www.viablue.de/com/splitter_sc2.shtml
> http://www.avoutlet.com/ <-Specifically search Furez looks like this:


Thanks! But I always forget to mention... I'm not on the US so I usually have problems finding shops that ship international







, and ebay doesn't have a seller that carries them... it also seems that there are no cheaper versions of these, only audiophile brands right? Hmmm


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Thanks! But I always forget to mention... I'm not on the US so I usually have problems finding shops that ship international
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , and ebay doesn't have a seller that carries them... it also seems that there are no cheaper versions of these, only audiophile brands right? Hmmm


The Qables y split cover have a lot of dealers across the world so if you go to http://www.qables.com/shop/index.php?main_page=page_dealers&zenid=99eb3549631795551d9186b5ffd52171 I am sure you'll find a place to order them.:

Same goes with the Viablue http://www.viablue.de/com/dealers.shtml:

As for the Furez I am not sure about their distribution. For the price I think the Qable are relatively cheap about 3 euro or $4 a piece as compared to 8 euro or $10 for the Viablue and Furez.


----------



## kkorky

Could anyone please tell me what size braiding/heatshrink i should order to sleeve my cables of my new D5 vario pump(with tach cable)?
Thanks in advance


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Could anyone please tell me what size braiding/heatshrink i should order to sleeve my cables of my new D5 vario pump(with tach cable)?
> Thanks in advance


What gage (or diameter) is the wire?


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> What gage (or diameter) is the wire?


No idea, sorry , thats not my area of expertise (ask me about tubing







).

It's just the normal wire that all D5 pumps have-sorry, poor answer, but id be lying to you if i said that i knew.


----------



## 350 Malibu

OK, if it looks like the wires on this pump, then I'd say standard 16 or 18AWG for the power, and 22-24AWG for the signal wire. Small MDPC sleeve or 2-3mm sleeve of other brand types for individual wire sleeving. 1/4" 3:1, or 3/16" 2:1 shrink.

Or you could use something like the MDPC USB Sleeve with 1/4" 3:1 shrink to sleeve all 3 wires together in one bundle.

What brand of sleeving were you thinking?


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> OK, if it looks like the wires on this pump, then I'd say standard 16 or 18AWG for the power, and 22-24AWG for the signal wire. Small MDPC sleeve or 2-3mm sleeve of other brand types for individual wire sleeving. 1/4" 3:1, or 3/16" 2:1 shrink.
> Or you could use something like the MDPC USB Sleeve with 1/4" 3:1 shrink to sleeve all 3 wires together in one bundle.
> What brand of sleeving were you thinking?


Firstly (+1 rep for your help much appreciated







)

Yes that wire configuration is exactly-see photos below.

I didnt really have any particular sleeving in mind to be honest-as i said, on the 'plumbing' side of pcs, im on the ball, but when it comes to cables etc, i just buy ready made sleeved extensions etc.

so this will be a first for me, i just want to have the wires not visible through the sleeving, because the wires shall be visible through the Bitspower mod kit as in the photo-i dont want to go overboard and get the best of the best, middle of the road sleeving will do me fine.

Photos:

Type of pump and wire config:



Examples of Bits Power mod kits with sleeved pump cables (my goal):







Hope this added information has made things a bit clearer-thanks again


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Firstly (+1 rep for your help much appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Yes that wire configuration is exactly-see photos below.
> I didnt really have any particular sleeving in mind to be honest-as i said, on the 'plumbing' side of pcs, im on the ball, but when it comes to cables etc, i just buy ready made sleeved extensions etc.
> so this will be a first for me, i just want to have the wires not visible through the sleeving, because the wires shall be visible through the Bitspower mod kit as in the photo-i dont want to go overboard and get the best of the best, middle of the road sleeving will do me fine.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Photos:
> Type of pump and wire config:
> 
> Examples of Bits Power mod kits with sleeved pump cables (my goal):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this added information has made things a bit clearer-thanks again


Well to be honest, I would just hit it with some black clean cut sleeving. It's super tight weave stuff and would work great for this application. For the signal wire I'd use 1/8" sleeve, then 1/4" for the power wires (both wires in one sleeve). 3/16" 2:1 shrink would work fine for the 1/8" sleeve, but you would need to look and see what they have available for the 1/4" sleeve (1/4" shink might work if you stretched it out a little, but might still be too small...).

Not sure if you are near a fry's electronics, but they carry the clean cut in ~20' lengths for $7, below is a link. It's made by JT&T and is great for general purpose sleeving.

http://www.frys.com/search?search_type=regular&sqxts=1&query_string=Black+Expandable+Sleeving&submit.x=0&submit.y=0&cat=0

Good luck and happy sleeving.









Edit: Stay away from the cheap Flexo-PET sleeving. You can see the wires right through it. It has it's place, but this is not one of them.


----------



## sinnedone

Does anyone have or can take a picture of some mdpc b-magic next to grand bleu?

I'm thinking I should have gone with the grand bleu instead of b-magic for a deeper blue.


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Does anyone have or can take a picture of some mdpc b-magic next to grand bleu?
> I'm thinking I should have gone with the grand bleu instead of b-magic for a deeper blue.


----------



## sinnedone

Is bmagic on the left and grand bleu on the right?

Thank you much for the picture by the way.


----------



## adi518

Mdpc samples


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Is bmagic on the left and grand bleu on the right?
> Thank you much for the picture by the way.


better pic


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> Not sure if you are near a fry's electronics, but they carry the clean cut in ~20' lengths for $7, below is a link. It's *made by JT&T* and is great for general purpose sleeving.


Techflex makes Clean Cut.


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> Techflex makes Clean Cut.


It says JT&T Products Clean-Cut PET Expandable Sleeving right on it http://jttproducts.com/
http://s345512767.onlinehome.us/WiringDepot/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=64&products_id=1488

Nothing about Techflex on it.

Who knows, maybe it's a repackage...


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> Well to be honest, I would just hit it with some black clean cut sleeving. It's super tight weave stuff and would work great for this application. For the signal wire I'd use 1/8" sleeve, then 1/4" for the power wires (both wires in one sleeve). 3/16" 2:1 shrink would work fine for the 1/8" sleeve, but you would need to look and see what they have available for the 1/4" sleeve (1/4" shink might work if you stretched it out a little, but might still be too small...).
> Not sure if you are near a fry's electronics, but they carry the clean cut in ~20' lengths for $7, below is a link. It's made by JT&T and is great for general purpose sleeving.
> http://www.frys.com/search?search_type=regular&sqxts=1&query_string=Black+Expandable+Sleeving&submit.x=0&submit.y=0&cat=0
> Good luck and happy sleeving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Stay away from the cheap Flexo-PET sleeving. You can see the wires right through it. It has it's place, but this is not one of them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> Techflex makes Clean Cut.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> It says JT&T Products Clean-Cut PET Expandable Sleeving right on it http://jttproducts.com/
> http://s345512767.onlinehome.us/WiringDepot/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=64&products_id=1488
> Nothing about Techflex on it.
> Who knows, maybe it's a repackage...


My bad guys, i should have replied earlier-im located in Europe at the moment, so i dont have access to any of those outlets, and shipping from the States to EU is way OTT!

I was thinking of using this guy perhaps, (http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve.htm) but im thinking that its a bit overkill just to sleeve a pump









Opinions please....


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> Techflex makes Clean Cut.


I have used a ton of clean cut flex. I get it very cheap from a supplier I use when I make my HT cables. Its pretty good stuff.


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> My bad guys, i should have replied earlier-im located in Europe at the moment, so i dont have access to any of those outlets, and shipping from the States to EU is way OTT!
> I was thinking of using this guy perhaps, (http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve.htm) but im thinking that its a bit overkill just to sleeve a pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Opinions please....


I was going to suggest MDPC, but didn't think it would be worth an order out of Germany for a couple feet of sleeve.


----------



## sinnedone

Hello all.

I was wondering if anyone has any mdpc grand Bleu sleeving here in the states that would be willing to trade for some b-magic or possibly sell. I only need a small amount. (6ft maybe) possibly suggest who I could ask.

I received my order from mdpc and after looking at it good I kinda wished I had gone with the grand Bleu.

I can't justify ordering random parts just to meet the minimum shipping requirements to order one roll of sleeving.


----------



## TheNovice

Which parcord color/brand comes closest to the Noctua light brown/tan color (fan shroud)?

Rothco Chocolate brown is quite similar to the fan blades.

\M


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNovice*
> 
> Which parcord color/brand comes closest to the Noctua light brown/tan color (fan shroud)?
> Rothco Chocolate brown is quite similar to the fan blades.
> \M


Have a looky here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1320853/paracord-sleeved-fans-noctua-nf-f12-pwm/0_20

Pretty nice colour combo, although it isn't matched.


----------



## TheNovice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> Have a looky here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1320853/paracord-sleeved-fans-noctua-nf-f12-pwm/0_20
> Pretty nice colour combo, although it isn't matched.


Thanks... It is a nice combo - was hoping to find a closer match though.

Anyone - any ideas?

\M


----------



## WebsterXC

Hey Novice I saw you comment on my Paracord Noctua sleeving thread, just thought I'd reply here.

I purchased the sleeving from Gorilla Paracord for extremely cheap: http://www.gorillaparacord.com/550-Paracord-Mil-Spec-Type-III-7-Strand_p_8.html

I ordered 25FT of Tan, and 25FT of Brown. However it looks as if "Brown" isn't an option on the drop-down anymore for some reason. In my thread, I used the TAN paracord I received from them. I sleeved something like 12 Notcuas, and I still have some paracord left over, so 25FT will do you well.

EDIT: I should probably read better lol. To match it better is difficult. The only heatshrink I could really find that fit the Noctua fans was a straight up Chocolate brown. Your best bet for Paracord is purchasing small quantities of browns and tans to find the one you like best in person.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Hey Novice I saw you comment on my Paracord Noctua sleeving thread, just thought I'd reply here.
> I purchased the sleeving from Gorilla Paracord for extremely cheap: http://www.gorillaparacord.com/550-Paracord-Mil-Spec-Type-III-7-Strand_p_8.html
> I ordered 25FT of Tan, and 25FT of Brown. However it looks as if "Brown" isn't an option on the drop-down anymore for some reason. In my thread, I used the TAN paracord I received from them. I sleeved something like 12 Notcuas, and I still have some paracord left over, so 25FT will do you well.
> EDIT: I should probably read better lol. To match it better is difficult. The only heatshrink I could really find that fit the Noctua fans was a straight up Chocolate brown. Your best bet for Paracord is purchasing small quantities of browns and tans to find the one you like best in person.


Good job! It looks like more people are starting to make Noctua builds. I love the brown color! Hopefully next year I will get started on mine.


----------



## mrrockwell

Here's how I tried to tidy up my cable mess.


----------



## WebsterXC

Wow that shield is a genius idea. I should do that...


----------



## socketus

Yah, how did you fasten that ? I first saw such a trick in IT Diva's Switch 810 build


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Wow that shield is a genius idea. I should do that...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Yah, how did you fasten that ? I first saw such a trick in IT Diva's Switch 810 build


Here's my build log so you can see the mounting of the plate.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1334774/case-mod-redefine/10#post_18839701

Drilled out holes in the mobo tray.


----------



## TheNovice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Hey Novice I saw you comment on my Paracord Noctua sleeving thread, just thought I'd reply here.
> I purchased the sleeving from Gorilla Paracord for extremely cheap: http://www.gorillaparacord.com/550-Paracord-Mil-Spec-Type-III-7-Strand_p_8.html
> I ordered 25FT of Tan, and 25FT of Brown. However it looks as if "Brown" isn't an option on the drop-down anymore for some reason. In my thread, I used the TAN paracord I received from them. I sleeved something like 12 Notcuas, and I still have some paracord left over, so 25FT will do you well.
> EDIT: I should probably read better lol. To match it better is difficult. The only heatshrink I could really find that fit the Noctua fans was a straight up Chocolate brown. Your best bet for Paracord is purchasing small quantities of browns and tans to find the one you like best in person.


Thanks a million!








Will look into which colors I can source locally.
(too difficult ordering from the US to be delivered across the pond)









BTW!
Just seen your build, Project Arete - really like it!
Well done!

\M


----------



## Katcilla

Hey guys, thought I'd share my first foray into custom sleeving, which has started with this:



Yeah, nothing special, just the front-panel cables. Just wanted to share.
All I had for this was the sleeving(standard black bitspower sleeving), the heatshrink, a lighter, and a set of jeweller's screwdrivers. So yeah, small job, not done to the highest of standards. But 20 minutes of work has still resulted in erasing the most annoying and ugly part of my rig.


----------



## naved777

ParaCord



Heatshrinkless Sleeving





must say its pretty easy to work with Paracord, i just put paper tape at the edge of the pin so that it doesn't snag ,no tool needed at all


----------



## OccultAssassin

Just got done making my custom power cord for my PSU using MDPC B-magic, Black, and white. I think it came out great. Thoughts? Sorry for the bad pics as I don't have a point and shoot and have to make due with a cell phone camera.


----------



## sinnedone

Very Nice I like.


----------



## mandrix

Wow! Those are some expensive plugs. Looks nice.


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Very Nice I like.


Thanks.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Wow! Those are some expensive plugs. Looks nice.


Hahaha, thanks for the kind words.


----------



## WebsterXC

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays sleevers!









Had some time away from the family today and decided to finish my single braid project (and listen to music on my new Corsair headphones







)

The power supply is an old Thermaltake 750W semi-modular. I replaced the fan inside with a Bitfenix Spectre Blue LED as well. The molex and SATA cables are completely custom made from scratch--all the way down to the crimps. The sleeving is Kobra High Density Aqua Blue. I also used the ModSmart pre-cut heatshrink from FrozenCPU. It stretches extremely well and is definitely worth the money if you're looking for perfect length heatshrink. I know in his guide, Lutro0 doesn't reccommend Kobra sleeving however I love the stuff. It's very inexpensive, and easy to use. After working with it on a daily basis for a long time, Kobra is my #2 choice for sleeving and is perfect for those on a budget. I'll probably put this up on the TPU classifieds if anyone is interested:


----------



## noob.deagle

Almost finished my first sleeving project just have a few more SATA cables to go i had SLI 570's and you couldn't see them so i didn't bother but now because of the GTX690 you can so ill have to sleeve them :\

not the best but for a first time I'm satisfied, cell phone pics so average quality.


----------



## jd2195

I just received my mdpc sleeving and I have got black sleeving and aquamarine blue. What pattern do you think I should use? I was thinking black then blue but maybe I should go 2 black then 2 blue. I not sure.


----------



## adi518

Very nicely done, good job sir!


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays sleevers!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had some time away from the family today and decided to finish my single braid project (and listen to music on my new Corsair headphones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> The power supply is an old Thermaltake 750W semi-modular. I replaced the fan inside with a Bitfenix Spectre Blue LED as well. The molex and SATA cables are completely custom made from scratch--all the way down to the crimps. The sleeving is Kobra High Density Aqua Blue. I also used the ModSmart pre-cut heatshrink from FrozenCPU. It stretches extremely well and is definitely worth the money if you're looking for perfect length heatshrink. I know in his guide, Lutro0 doesn't reccommend Kobra sleeving however I love the stuff. It's very inexpensive, and easy to use. After working with it on a daily basis for a long time, Kobra is my #2 choice for sleeving and is perfect for those on a budget. I'll probably put this up on the TPU classifieds if anyone is interested:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Heatshrink's looking even and I like how you went the extra mile on the inline SATA/Molex power cables. Although I am not a fan of a single color scheme this looks good.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noob.deagle*
> 
> Almost finished my first sleeving project just have a few more SATA cables to go i had SLI 570's and you couldn't see them so i didn't bother but now because of the GTX690 you can so ill have to sleeve them :\
> not the best but for a first time I'm satisfied, cell phone pics so average quality.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking nice and clean for a first time sleeve project. Keep up the good work.


----------



## mrrockwell

Here's little fan cable paracord sleeving.


----------



## 350 Malibu

I have to give credit to those that do heat shrinked cables (i prefer shirnkless, this is for a friend)... Man what a pain in the arse!









My first attempt with MDPC sleeve *WITH* shrink. Dang fingerprints in the shrink, etc. But overall I guess not terrible. Lutro0 makes it look easy. Practice will hopefully make perfect.


----------



## Born For TDM

First cables i have ever sleeved, all went well except for that one cable >.< placed heat shrink wrong, may fix it next week when i sleeve another cable. A little to much light in the photo, the 2 middle cables are blue.


----------



## 350 Malibu

What'ca all think of these? Only burnt 3 fingers this time!


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Born For TDM*
> 
> 
> First cables i have ever sleeved, all went well except for that one cable >.< placed heat shrink wrong, may fix it next week when i sleeve another cable. A little to much light in the photo, the 2 middle cables are blue.


The shrink is a pain isn't it?


----------



## Born For TDM

Haha yeah, your cables look great! Mine look fine when they are in the case, cant even see that 1-2 of the heat shrinks are not the same size ^_^


----------



## 350 Malibu

it happens. just have to re-do, re-do, re-do until they are right. Good luck with your build.


----------



## audioholic

Any suggestions for a purple themed build? Purple white black?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*
> 
> Don't take them out because you may need them, but all they are is ground connections.
> 
> GPU's sense when they are there, and some will not work (or will not allow for overclocking) when they are gone.
> So just tuck them away.


Really? Are you sure about this?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Really? Are you sure about this?


Yes.

If I recall, it was the HD5000 Series GPU's which let you use two 6pin instead of a 6 & 8 pin cable; but with two 6pin cables, you couldn't overclock.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*
> 
> Yes.
> 
> If I recall, it was the HD5000 Series GPU's which let you use two 6pin instead of a 6 & 8 pin cable; but with two 6pin cables, you couldn't overclock.


I currently have a 7970 that requires a 6 & 8 pin cable and my power supply comes with a 2 x 8pin cable. I removed two of the pins from the PSU cable for atheistic reasons. How do you think that will work?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Any suggestions for a purple themed build? Purple white black?


I like purple white & grey.


----------



## OneTreeHill

Hi guys, how to remove 3 pin male connector

http://cdn.overclock.net/2/20/202327d2_3-pinfanheader.jpeg

i tried but ı can't remove


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I currently have a 7970 that requires a 6 & 8 pin cable and my power supply comes with a 2 x 8pin cable. I removed two of the pins from the PSU cable for atheistic reasons. How do you think that will work?


I'm not 100% certain, but the card may keep overclocking locked out with just the two 6pin cables; though it may not boot at all.

Depends on how AMD chose to handle it on that generation.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*
> 
> I'm not 100% certain, but the card may keep overclocking locked out with just the two 6pin cables; though it may not boot at all.
> Depends on how AMD chose to handle it on that generation.


I'm not sure if I understand. I mean what is the difference between using a power supply that only has a 6 pin and 8 pin PCI-E cable to one that has 2 x 8pin but with 2 pins removed?


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I currently have a 7970 that requires a 6 & 8 pin cable and my power supply comes with a 2 x 8pin cable. I removed two of the pins from the PSU cable for atheistic reasons. How do you think that will work?


nuttin personal but I can't pass this up









for _*atheistic reasons*_. lol ... well, you never know about that big guy in the sky-y-y-y-y .... I'd leave one connector attached, just in case









No ! seriously, i have a 580 evga that needs only a 6 and an 8 pin, and I did away with the extra 2 pin when resleeving. No problems at all.
You'd think there'd be more such posts in this very thread, but obviously I can't say with 100% certainty that the same missing 2 pin will work the same on your AMD card.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> nuttin personal but I can't pass this up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for _*atheistic reasons*_. lol ... well, you never know about that big guy in the sky-y-y-y-y .... I'd leave one connector attached, just in case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No ! seriously, i have a 580 evga that needs only a 6 and an 8 pin, and I did away with the extra 2 pin when resleeving. No problems at all.
> You'd think there'd be more such posts in this very thread, but obviously I can't say with 100% certainty that the same missing 2 pin will work the same on your AMD card.










Aesthetic

Its been working thus far but I haven't overclocked the card yet either.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> I have to give credit to those that do heat shrinked cables (i prefer shirnkless, this is for a friend)... Man what a pain in the arse!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt with MDPC sleeve *WITH* shrink. Dang fingerprints in the shrink, etc. But overall I guess not terrible. Lutro0 makes it look easy. Practice will hopefully make perfect.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> What'ca all think of these? Only burnt 3 fingers this time!


Using heatshrink is an art, however I would never get good results if I didnt use my tool. Which is why I created it in the first place. Everything has to be so precise for it to work out.



Thats a really old photo but it gets the point across.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I'm not sure if I understand. I mean what is the difference between using a power supply that only has a 6 pin and 8 pin PCI-E cable to one that has 2 x 8pin but with 2 pins removed?


Electrically there is no difference.

The warning is, that some cards work with two 6pins when they have spots for a 6 & 8; while some do not work at all or just simply disable overclocking.


----------



## llamaegg

Super pumped when not only did a truck pull up to deliver all 120 meters of MDPC-X sleeving (which seriously, love that dude, pleased every time I order from him, just the little personal stuff, like writing "Robert Edition" on my Molex remover), but then a second truck pulled up to deliver my new Corsair AX1200!

Sometimes I hate living in a basement suite, no natural light at all for pictures, though saying that I'm actually kinda happy with how the second picture came out.




Now for that hard part, figuring out what pattern to do my sleeving in!


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*
> 
> Electrically there is no difference.
> 
> The warning is, that some cards work with two 6pins when they have spots for a 6 & 8; while some do not work at all or just simply disable overclocking.


I think I now know the confusion. I am not using less pins then the card allows or suggest. I am merely removing the pins from the cables so not to have any wires dangling and not being used. So if my old 5850 requires 2 x 6pin I have a cables that only has 2 x 6pins. The same goes for my 7970 which requires 1x6 and 1x8. For my 7970, I removed 2pins from my 8pin PCI and left the other 8pin intact. this way I have the exact amount of pins needed. Are we on the same page now?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I think I now know the confusion. I am not using less pins then the card allows or suggest. I am merely removing the pins from the cables so not to have any wires dangling and not being used. So if my old 5850 requires 2 x 6pin I have a cables that only has 2 x 6pins. The same goes for my 7970 which requires 1x6 and 1x8. For my 7970, I removed 2pins from my 8pin PCI and left the other 8pin intact. this way I have the exact amount of pins needed. Are we on the same page now?


Yeah, that'll be fine.

My advice is to always use what the GPU requires to avoid any potential incompatibility issues that may arise.

I'd hate to be sleeving all week, just to rebuild and have a GPU error flash on the UEFI screen (or to get the beeps.)


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llamaegg*
> 
> Super pumped when not only did a truck pull up to deliver all 120 meters of MDPC-X sleeving (which seriously, love that dude, pleased every time I order from him, just the little personal stuff, like writing "Robert Edition" on my Molex remover), but then a second truck pulled up to deliver my new Corsair AX1200!
> Sometimes I hate living in a basement suite, no natural light at all for pictures, though saying that I'm actually kinda happy with how the second picture came out.
> 
> 
> Now for that hard part, figuring out what pattern to do my sleeving in!


Haha gotta love it. I once had Purolator and Canada Post show up consecutively like that before it was awesome. I gotta say interesting color choices. What hardware will you pairing that with? And yes gotta love the small bits of personalization from Nils.


----------



## llamaegg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Haha gotta love it. I once had Purolator and Canada Post show up consecutively like that before it was awesome. I gotta say interesting color choices. What hardware will you pairing that with? And yes gotta love the small bits of personalization from Nils.


Heh, I think the best I've ever had was 3 different trucks arrive back to back. Went upstairs, received one package, went back down getting ready to open the package when the bell goes off, same thing immediately afterwords. Never been that lucky again, was still humorous though.

And while I'm not 100% sure on my full setup yet (plus I didn't want to order everything before sleeving my PSU, otherwise I would have a couple grand sitting around taunting me, heh), I _do_ know I'm likely to be going with ASUS Maximus Extreme/3770K as well as probably Corsair 2400 Dominators (we'll see, they do have quite a price jump on them), as well as planning to running two Watercooling loops, one for CPU/MOBO, other for GPU's once the 7XX series come out hopefully in a couple months.

And yeah, I wanted to do something different with the sleeve coloring, done the black, and certain colors are done to death, plus those three look to play nicely together!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneTreeHill*
> 
> Hi guys, how to remove 3 pin male connector
> http://cdn.overclock.net/2/20/202327d2_3-pinfanheader.jpeg
> i tried but ı can't remove


You want to remove the pins? You can stick a needle or pin from the front underneath the side of the pin that has the little locking tab, this will depress it and you can push/pull the pin out.
I have just yanked them out with pliers before.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*
> 
> Yeah, that'll be fine.
> 
> My advice is to always use what the GPU requires to avoid any potential incompatibility issues that may arise.
> 
> I'd hate to be sleeving all week, just to rebuild and have a GPU error flash on the UEFI screen (or to get the beeps.)


I agree.


----------



## llamaegg

Am I crazy or has Corsair changed the layout on the 24 pin connector of the AX1200? I printed the layout and it seems to not lineup with what I have in front of me. To give an example, Pin 1 on the 24 pin side is shown to line up with 1 on the 14 pin side, but yet mine lines up with 1 on the 10 pin side. Quickly trying to follow cables shows that this is true for at least the first five cables.

It's actually looking like the 24 pin might be 1:1 now?

Time to start my own crappy diagram I guess!

Edit; well, nearly 1:1 maybe, I'm seeing a single double wire.


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llamaegg*
> 
> Am I crazy or has Corsair changed the layout on the 24 pin connector of the AX1200? I printed the layout and it seems to not lineup with what I have in front of me. To give an example, Pin 1 on the 24 pin side is shown to line up with 1 on the 14 pin side, but yet mine lines up with 1 on the 10 pin side. Quickly trying to follow cables shows that this is true for at least the first five cables.
> It's actually looking like the 24 pin might be 1:1 now?
> Time to start my own crappy diagram I guess!
> Edit; well, nearly 1:1 maybe, I'm seeing a single double wire.


Yep they changed something. When I sleeved my 850 the cables were layedout differently from the layout from web. But the layout from web works just fine.


----------



## Rakhasa

I have an Asrock Extreme4 coming, and a single 680 Lightning. Another member suggested I come here to ask for a set, was hoping to get the cables in yellow.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakhasa*
> 
> I have an Asrock Extreme4 coming, and a single 680 Lightning. Another member suggested I come here to ask for a set, was hoping to get the cables in yellow.


There is an artisan section on here for that. However there is a group of international sleevers that take jobs that I run a group for. https://www.facebook.com/groups/ICSCommunity/


----------



## JAM3S121

Hey guys, I'm thinking about sleeving my fans and my front I/O cables this week or next week.

For the 3 pin fans I just need a 3pin ATX tool right?

And for the i/o cables, most sleeving like paracord will fit right over it right? and is bitspower sleeving decent? i know paradcord and mdpc just curious.


----------



## aqualad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm thinking about sleeving my fans and my front I/O cables this week or next week.
> For the 3 pin fans I just need a 3pin ATX tool right?
> And for the i/o cables, most sleeving like paracord will fit right over it right? and is bitspower sleeving decent? i know paradcord and mdpc just curious.


What color sleeving are you looking for............


----------



## WebsterXC

Does anybody know if and where to purchase the stock sleeving from enermax power supplies? As weird as it sounds, I really like the black/gold/red combo because of how professional it looks. That being said, the power supply comes sleeved a little short. If I can find replacement sleeving, I'd like to resleeve it closer to the connectors. Any ideas? Proud owner of a new Enermax Platimax 850W Platinum









Here's an example:


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm thinking about sleeving my fans and my front I/O cables this week or next week.
> For the 3 pin fans I just need a 3pin ATX tool right?
> And for the i/o cables, most sleeving like paracord will fit right over it right? and is bitspower sleeving decent? i know paradcord and mdpc just curious.


You can just use a small flathead screwdriver to remove 3pin fan connections.

Regarding the paracord, I posted a little way back in this thread my I/O connections with some paracord. I think it turned out pretty decent: http://www.overclock.net/t/662039/cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion/8160_20#post_18584944


----------



## TwentyCent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Does anybody know if and where to purchase the stock sleeving from enermax power supplies? As weird as it sounds, I really like the black/gold/red combo because of how professional it looks. That being said, the power supply comes sleeved a little short. If I can find replacement sleeving, I'd like to resleeve it closer to the connectors. Any ideas? Proud owner of a new Enermax Platimax 850W Platinum
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's an example:


No idea about that specific sleeve, but you could make your own individually sleeved harnesses with a similar color combo using paracord. The heatshrinkless method is seriously quite easy.
Quick google search brought me this:


** shop link **

and


----------



## WebsterXC

Could you do me a favor and get me a link to the top one TwentyCent? Unless it's like a random google image









I actually might use that, but I'll have to decide. As stupid as it sounds, my planned build would look alot better with single sleeving (each cable group has one piece of sleeving; the way it comes stock). If anyone has any other suggestions on where to get the Enermax sleeving color that would be great.


----------



## TwentyCent

Added link. Worst case scenario I guess you could go with cleancut or the bigger MPDC, but it only comes in black.


----------



## longroadtrip

New power cable...


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> New power cable...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like it!


----------



## longroadtrip

Thanks WiSK!


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Thanks WiSK!


Looks fantastic, any idea if you can get UK plug variants?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> Looks fantastic, any idea if you can get UK plug variants?


UK mains plugs (BS1363) aren't allowed to have the cable coming out of the back - to stop people pulling the cord to remove a plug. So the companies that make those audiophile plugs don't make a UK variant.


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> UK mains plugs (BS1363) aren't allowed to have the cable coming out of the back - to stop people pulling the cord to remove a plug. So the companies that make those audiophile plugs don't make a UK variant.


I guess I'll have to opt for a bog standard black plug then







Cheers


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> I guess I'll have to opt for a bog standard black plug then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers


Or something like this

http://www.mr-resistor.co.uk/item.aspx?&t=952&r=955&i=13260&a=1


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Or something like this
> 
> http://www.mr-resistor.co.uk/item.aspx?&t=952&r=955&i=13260&a=1


Looks good! Might opt for that thanks!


----------



## longroadtrip

BuToNz...WiSK is right, I can't get UK variant plugs...only EU and US


----------



## nezff

two prong cable i shortened for a subwoofer a while back.


----------



## OccultAssassin

Got some sleeving done this weekend. I like how the B-magic matches my ram and mobo. Still got the "piece de resistance"(24 pin) to do along with maybe an extra SATA and Molex for future use. I know the photos are crap quality, but you gotta make due with what you got(crappy cell phone camera). Never was a photo person, but if anyone wants to suggest a decent camera with a nice price I would consider it for any future pictures I could take. Anyways here are the pics:





Thoughts?

Edit: I know cpu cooler is a disgrace, but for now I am not overclocking and not interested in putting a behemoth of an air cooler in my rig. Considering I have always planned for a water cooled setup just have to wait for Uncle Sam to write the check, man I can't wait for tax returns.


----------



## JAM3S121

Thats a unique way to do the PCI-E power cables, I actually like it but I think I'll love it once tidy everything else up man. Get a EVGA Black SLi ribbon cable too,


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OccultAssassin*
> 
> Just got done making my custom power cord for my PSU using MDPC B-magic, Black, and white. I think it came out great. Thoughts? Sorry for the bad pics as I don't have a point and shoot and have to make due with a cell phone camera.


Those plugs!!! How are they so expensive?!? Palladium and Platinum plating!!! I wanted to make one, then I saw the price. Over $250 for a power cord... I'll buy a new SSD instead lol.

EDIT: Apparently this link is a huge ripoff: http://www.vhaudio.com/connectors-ac.html#OyaideMale

Looks like the 'bay has them for less than ten bucks... Ordering now lol


----------



## longroadtrip

You can also get them from the manufacturer at sonaraudioshop.com pretty reasonably.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> You can also get them from the manufacturer at sonaraudioshop.com pretty reasonably.


Got them a buck cheaper on ebay, free shipping ftw!


----------



## longroadtrip

Nothing wrong with that!


----------



## wompwomp

I need help guys.

So I am attempting my first paracord sleeving and I've have decided to go heat-shrinkless. I'm using this video as a reference: 



 and the problem I'm having is after melting the end tip of the paracord and shutting it close onto the cable, I can't get the wire to fit back into the plastic power connector. I've been trying consistently to shut the paracord as small as possible but no matter how small I get it, apparently it isn't small enough. Any suggestions?

Also, how do you guys melt the paracord and shut it with your bare fingers? I've burned myself several times and my index finger and thumb are numb. lol


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wompwomp*
> 
> I need help guys.
> So I am attempting my first paracord sleeving and I've have decided to go heat-shrinkless. I'm using this video as a reference:
> 
> 
> 
> and the problem I'm having is after melting the end tip of the paracord and shutting it close onto the cable, I can't get the wire to fit back into the plastic power connector. I've been trying consistently to shut the paracord as small as possible but no matter how small I get it, apparently it isn't small enough. Any suggestions?
> Also, how do you guys melt the paracord and shut it with your bare fingers? I've burned myself several times and my index finger and thumb are numb. lol


You are melting it between the crimp and the pin (The part which is thinnest)? If so you shouldn't have a problem fitting it in unless you've melted a lot of paracord.

Yupp, pinching it with the thumb and index









Quick picture of what I mean:


It's also a good idea to try to keep it as round as possible, if you pinch it flat and not round it will catch on the housing.

Should look something like this:


----------



## Spite

Hey guys I've got a question, I'm planning on sleeving a PSU for my new build with MDPC but I'm unsure which one to go for as I'm looking for a 1 - 1 PSU due it being my first time sleeving so I don't really want to run into any double wire problems and whatnot. I was thinking of getting the Silverstone Strider 850W Gold, is this a good PSU to go with for sleeving? Thanks.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spite*
> 
> Hey guys I've got a question, I'm planning on sleeving a PSU for my new build with MDPC but I'm unsure which one to go for as I'm looking for a 1 - 1 PSU due it being my first time sleeving so I don't really want to run into any double wire problems and whatnot. I was thinking of getting the Silverstone Strider 850W Gold, is this a good PSU to go with for sleeving? Thanks.


You mean the new Evolution ST85F-G? I believe that has no double wires and is 1-1 (mirrored). That's possibly one of the easiest PSUs for a new sleever. Only thing that will scare you is the large caps on the ends of the PCIe cables, but those can be safely removed.


----------



## Spite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You mean the new Evolution ST85F-G? I believe that has no double wires and is 1-1 (mirrored). That's possibly one of the easiest PSUs for a new sleever. Only thing that will scare you is the large caps on the ends of the PCIe cables, but those can be safely removed.


Yeah that's the one, thanks so much.


----------



## MissStinkyBum

Hey guys looking for a bit of advice, been sleeving my power supply and I cannot for the life of me get the cpu 8 pin pins out, feel like I'm going to break them! Tried warming the connected up with a hair dryer but still no luck.
Cheers,
Heidi


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MissStinkyBum*
> 
> Hey guys looking for a bit of advice, been sleeving my power supply and I cannot for the life of me get the cpu 8 pin pins out, feel like I'm going to break them! Tried warming the connected up with a hair dryer but still no luck.
> Cheers,
> Heidi


What ATX removal tool are you using? Sometimes the prongs don't quite reach far enough and giving the tool a wiggle while pushing the pin further into the connector helps.

Is it just the 8pin CPU you are struggling with or are these the first you've tried?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MissStinkyBum*
> 
> Tried warming the connected up with a hair dryer but still no luck.


The connectors are made of Nylon, so heating them up could result in deformation.

Here's my epic drawing of why the pin (black) doesn't come out of the housing (brown). You need to push up first to free those two wings. Once you think they are free, put the extractor tool in, but don't pull yet! First push up and wiggle them some more







Now when you pull the wire downwards, make sure you are holding it exactly in line with (parallel to) the pin.


----------



## MissStinkyBum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> What ATX removal tool are you using? Sometimes the prongs don't quite reach far enough and giving the tool a wiggle while pushing the pin further into the connector helps.
> Is it just the 8pin CPU you are struggling with or are these the first you've tried?


Sorry I explained myself wrong I meant the CPU power cable, I have the proper Molex tool and have managed to sleeve the 24pin but no luck with these pins


----------



## wompwomp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> You are melting it between the crimp and the pin (The part which is thinnest)? If so you shouldn't have a problem fitting it in unless you've melted a lot of paracord.
> Yupp, pinching it with the thumb and index
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick picture of what I mean:
> 
> It's also a good idea to try to keep it as round as possible, if you pinch it flat and not round it will catch on the housing.
> Should look something like this:


Gahh that's how I've been doing it, but I think the problem I'm having is over-melting the paracord and creating a large plastic blob. lol. But thanks though +rep and I'll keep trying!


----------



## wompwomp

I accidentally burned one of the metal connectors when trying to do heatshrinkless paracord. is it still usable? lol. It's like a gunmetal color now.


----------



## TeamBlue

What do we think about this kids? Sleeved cat5e. I would have done 4 sleeves but they wouldnt fit through the boot. I havent seen anyone do sleeved patch cables before, then again I havent looked that hard. Let me know if you want one, custom lengths and colors available.


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wompwomp*
> 
> Gahh that's how I've been doing it, but I think the problem I'm having is over-melting the paracord and creating a large plastic blob. lol. But thanks though +rep and I'll keep trying!


I've done that a couple of times, just cut off the excess with a exacto blade.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wompwomp*
> 
> I accidentally burned one of the metal connectors when trying to do heatshrinkless paracord. is it still usable? lol. It's like a gunmetal color now.


Yeah the connection will be fine, it's only cosmetic.


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> 
> What do we think about this kids? Sleeved cat5e. I would have done 4 sleeves but they wouldnt fit through the boot. I havent seen anyone do sleeved patch cables before, then again I havent looked that hard. Let me know if you want one, custom lengths and colors available.


Looks good! It's a shame the paracord shows through the 'twisted' wires quite a bit. Will one piece of paracord fit the whole bundle?


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> Looks good! It's a shame the paracord shows through the 'twisted' wires quite a bit. Will one piece of paracord fit the whole bundle?


If I do it with 4 pieces it should show a lot less of the twist, I'll just have to decide on a shrink color as the snagless boot won't fit over 4 pieces. I tried using a single sleeve for the whole cable, paracord said hells no.

Here's a question: since the new strider evo gold series have a 1:1 24 pin and the cable set st-05 says it will work on any strider series psu, do you think I could get away doing a 1:1 24 pin on my st1500? I don't mind doing y's, but in my new build there won't be any room to hide such ugliness, and I'm going for perfection.


----------



## socketus

Anyone pick up on Silverstone's new line of sleeved cabling for their psu line ? Just ran across it today with the CES news.

http://www.silverstonetek.com/product_access.php?tno=4&area=en

Hmm, the sleeved cables are being called extensions, and are interchangeable with any Silverstone psu.

"PP07 is an individually sleeved extension power cable set that is useful for system with large case or motherboards and to also improve cable management. This is a great addition to any user that wishes to optimize airflow and appearance inside their case."



"For those who like braided cable to clean up a build, Silverstone is now offering full PSU replacement wires for their power supplies, and since all of the PSU connections are standard on every Silverstone PSU, even if you change models, the cables can go along with the new PSU as well. For those looking to just extend existing wires, there will be red, black and white offerings to add to your PC. On the low end of the cable pricing you are looking at $7 a cable, and for things like the 24-pin, you should expect to pay closer to $12. Either route you take, I don't think anyone will be disappointed with these offerings I have seen today!"

SOURCE


----------



## alabrand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Anyone pick up on Silverstone's new line of sleeved cabling for their psu line ? Just ran across it today with the CES news.
> 
> http://www.silverstonetek.com/product_access.php?tno=4&area=en
> 
> Hmm, the sleeved cables are being called extensions, and are interchangeable with any Silverstone psu.
> 
> "PP07 is an individually sleeved extension power cable set that is useful for system with large case or motherboards and to also improve cable management. This is a great addition to any user that wishes to optimize airflow and appearance inside their case."
> 
> 
> 
> "For those who like braided cable to clean up a build, Silverstone is now offering full PSU replacement wires for their power supplies, and since all of the PSU connections are standard on every Silverstone PSU, even if you change models, the cables can go along with the new PSU as well. For those looking to just extend existing wires, there will be red, black and white offerings to add to your PC. On the low end of the cable pricing you are looking at $7 a cable, and for things like the 24-pin, you should expect to pay closer to $12. Either route you take, I don't think anyone will be disappointed with these offerings I have seen today!"
> 
> SOURCE


A challenger to Corsairs line of sleeves? I would love to see a comparison of these two.


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alabrand*
> 
> A challenger to Corsairs line of sleeves? I would love to see a comparison of these two.


There's a tremendous difference just based on the pictures. Corsair uses cheap azz flexo-pet sleeve, while the silverstone appears to be of much higher quality (looks to be similar to paracord, non plastic type). Also, the silverstone's are not covered in poorly done heatshrink.

At a price point of $7-$12 per cable, I think silverstone has given someone a decent budget alternative to obtain the sleeved cable look. Also, given that you can buy just the cables you need and not an entire set that you only need 50% of the cables is also a plus in my book.

My first impressions are "good job silverstone", but without seeing them in person I'll have to reserve definitive judgement.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alabrand*
> 
> A challenger to Corsairs line of sleeves? I would love to see a comparison of these two.


It's not really a challenge when they are not interchangeable. Corsair's cables don't work on Silverstone's PSUs and vice-versa.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It's not really a challenge when they are not interchangeable. Corsair's cables don't work on Silverstone's PSUs and vice-versa.


That is what the extensions are for.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> That is what the extensions are for.


Neither company make extensions.


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> That is what the extensions are for.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Neither company make extensions.


Not much point in adding extensions, the purpose (Of these replacement cables) is to have the wires sleeved from PSU to component without interruption. But as said they don't directly compete as they are both for separate units. Corsair owners will buy Corsair PSU sleeved cables and Silverstone owners with buy the Silverstone PSU sleeved cables.

Nevertheless it's nice to see more than Corsair doing this and hopefully means we'll see more with this type of sleeving becoming standard.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Neither company make extensions.


Extensions are part of Silverstone's new cable lineup. Read the previous few posts.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Extensions are part of Silverstone's new cable lineup. Read the previous few posts.


My bad then, I thought this was about the PP06 modular cable set, but indeed the announcement is about a new product PP07. Still Corsair doesn't make extensions (right?). So it's still not a challenge, which was suggested by the post I originally replied to.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> My bad then, I thought this was about the PP06 modular cable set, but indeed the announcement is about a new product PP07. Still Corsair doesn't make extensions (right?). So it's still not a challenge, which was suggested by the post I originally replied to.


You would be surprised to see how many people will order Corsair's PSU just to have the option to use their sleeving kit. Now since Silverstone is doing the same thing, people don't have that excuse anymore. It really makes thing just more competitive and potentially bring some of the prices down.


----------



## NomNomNom

How much of a difference do ferrite beads make? My corsair 1000hx has some on the ends of PCI-E cables


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> How much of a difference do ferrite beads make? My corsair 1000hx has some on the ends of PCI-E cables


They are there to stop electrical noise that can be present on some GPUs.

They have no effect on electrical performance.

Some PSU's have capacitors on the end of the PCIe cables for additional filtering; Silverstone units have these capacitors, but they are only for electrical noise reduction.


----------



## longroadtrip

Nom...Clip them and call it a day...unless your cables are uber long, they make no difference whatsoever....

I pity the person that buys a PSU so they can buy poorly sleeved cables from a manufacturer....god forbid you learn a bit and spend a few hours working...sorry, not meant to be judgemental, but, a person who buys their sleeves will never have the understanding about a system as somebody who sleeves or even makes their own cables.../rant


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Nom...Clip them and call it a day...unless your cables are uber long, they make no difference whatsoever....
> 
> I pity the person that buys a PSU so they can buy poorly sleeved cables from a manufacturer....god forbid you learn a bit and spend a few hours working...sorry, not meant to be judgemental, but, a person who buys their sleeves will never have the understanding about a system as somebody who sleeves or even makes their own cables.../rant










I am sleeving my own cables







Using paracord atm from rothco


----------



## socketus

what about the feeling ? burnt finger ends, sore joints ... I dig how so many of you guys take this job on. Does he or doesn't he ? Only my professional sleever knows


----------



## NomNomNom

I just wrap my fingers in tape and toilet paper


----------



## audioholic

Thats why I use a soldering iron to just melt the paracord...no more burns on my fingers


----------



## NomNomNom

But you're missing out on the fun!


----------



## audioholic

But when I work with my hands for my actual job I kinda need those finger tips








Being a sign installer I need all my fingers intact


----------



## longroadtrip

I use this...



oops meant this...


----------



## audioholic

Cant wait till my sleeving stuff comes in


----------



## OccultAssassin

Got my first big sleeving project done. Just finished my 24 pin to wrap up the sleeving (note the offset was on purpose for my aesthetic tastes). Next up is a cable sewing to clean up cables and bring the theme together. Can't wait to WC this build, just got a few minor mods to the case to do first! Without further adieu here are the pics (combined with the other pics in previous posts you get a good idea of what the insides look like):



Keeping the shrinks at the same lengths is a labor of perfection I tried to keep up with, but fell short. Many props to those of you who do this and make it look effortless and super clean.


----------



## Craigk19

I got a question for you guys I'm fixing to undertake my first sleeving of my psu and I want to know how do I keep the white looking really white if the cord I sleeve is black or red or yellow wont it show through the sleeving!? Same with the red sleeving? I'm using paracord 550 and heatshrinkless I've watched a lot of videos and read everything from lutro0 but it looks like he just replaces it with a totally different wire if that's the case how do I go about doing that?


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> I got a question for you guys I'm fixing to undertake my first sleeving of my psu and I want to know how do I keep the white looking really white if the cord I sleeve is black or red or yellow wont it show through the sleeving!? Same with the red sleeving? I'm using paracord 550 and heatshrinkless I've watched a lot of videos and read everything from lutro0 but it looks like he just replaces it with a totally different wire if that's the case how do I go about doing that?


You can carefully wrap the wire in tape to help with this but generally paracord (Assuming it's good stuff) won't show through the colour. Alternative as you said is to replace the wire, I'm sure someone can advise on this as I only do extensions.


----------



## Craigk19

i got Rothco 550 off amazon in 100' red 100' black and 50' white i hope i dont have to replace wires im pretty good with tools but i am scared with messing with cords that ave to deal with powering my system :/ really looking forward to sleeving my ax860i lol just hope i dont have 8 pins into 2 6pins since im going with 2 670s


----------



## noob.deagle

I changed my Mobo to a Z77 sabertooth cause it looked better (i really need to stop wasting money







), i also fixed a few of the heat shrinks that let go of the sleeving and now im finally 98% happy with my build and am content to stop fiddling with it











Id like to sleeve those last remaining little cables in the top right of the photo but i don't have the tool to remove the fan connectors in-order to get the sleeving on; fortunantly you cannot see them with the side cover on but I know they are there and it bugs me


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> i got Rothco 550 off amazon in 100' red 100' black and 50' white i hope i dont have to replace wires im pretty good with tools but i am scared with messing with cords that ave to deal with powering my system :/ really looking forward to sleeving my ax860i lol just hope i dont have 8 pins into 2 6pins since im going with 2 670s


No need to worry with that PSU, all of the cables are black. It may 'Dull' the white a little but it'll look fine









Bitfenix actually use black cables on their white extensions and it doesn't really show, pretty sure it'll be the same for you.


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noob.deagle*
> 
> I changed my Mobo to a Z77 sabertooth cause it looked better (i really need to stop wasting money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), i also fixed a few of the heat shrinks that let go of the sleeving and now im finally 98% happy with my build and am content to stop fiddling with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Id like to sleeve those last remaining little cables in the top right of the photo but i don't have the tool to remove the fan connectors in-order to get the sleeving on; fortunantly you cannot see them with the side cover on but I know they are there and it bugs me


You don't need a specific tool to remove the fan pins from the connector. If you have a paperclip it will do just fine. Just push the paperclip into the pin on the side of the connector and then pull on the wire when the pin is compressed and it will come out.


----------



## Craigk19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> No need to worry with that PSU, all of the cables are black. It may 'Dull' the white a little but it'll look fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bitfenix actually use black cables on their white extensions and it doesn't really show, pretty sure it'll be the same for you.


Sweetness Thanks a lot


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> Sweetness Thanks a lot


Worst case, buy white electrical or masking tape and wrap all your wires in it


----------



## Craigk19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Worst case, buy white electrical or masking tape and wrap all your wires in it


It won't make the wires thicker?


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> It won't make the wires thicker?


Yes. Marginally. You also have the alternative of painting them.


----------



## adi518

Thinking on moving from my SS X to a Silverstone Strider but those blue jacks.. oh man.. they just wreck my scheme to pieces lol! Anyone knows where you can buy covers to hide the ones you don't use?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Thinking on moving from my SS X to a Silverstone Strider but those blue jacks.. oh man.. they just wreck my scheme to pieces lol! Anyone knows where you can buy covers to hide the ones you don't use?


You can easily unsolder then and rit dye them.

Or order the actuall plugs and solder new ones in.


----------



## adi518

I'm guessing I won't be able to keep the warranty that way.









Would spraying them work instead of using dye?

Getting the original connectors is a huge mission, I seriously have no clue where I could find them.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Thinking on moving from my SS X to a Silverstone Strider but those blue jacks.. oh man.. they just wreck my scheme to pieces lol! Anyone knows where you can buy covers to hide the ones you don't use?


I'm gonna answer your other question to me here.

1. Get a big piece of card, cut holes for the sockets. Put the PSU upright, card on top. Then mask off all the black ones with painter's tape. Now buy some Kobra Big Black graffiti paint and do two passes on the exposed blue sockets with 2 mins in between. One aiming up and right, one pass aiming down and left. Don't worry about paint getting on the pins.

2. Or just use white PCIe connectors, but dye them blue. 5 mins in boiling water with 5g salt and a tiny tiny amount of Dylon#18. See pic below. It might not quite match your theme, but the plug and socket will be identical colours, so it will look natural.


----------



## adi518

If I do it, it's gotta be black but I'm thinking.. paint won't go inside the psu? Through the very thin spaces between the jacks and the psu housing?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> If I do it, it's gotta be black but I'm thinking.. paint won't go inside the psu? Through the very thin spaces between the jacks and the psu housing?


Modular connectors are always mounted on a PCB. So you are not spraying directly into the PSU. Some minute spots of paint on this PCB is not a problem, especially since you will be spraying from a side angle.


----------



## Craigk19

OK so i havent gotten all my tools in actually non of them but a friend had some 550 paracord laying around so i got some from him and using stables i practiced on some cables i had laying around so please dont bash me to bad frist time ever im really happy about it lol i know i didnt put them back where they came from but i was just practicing the sleeving i will never use these so here are the pictures


----------



## WebsterXC

Not a fan for the color scheme, but the craftsmanship is fantastic!


----------



## Craigk19

lol thanks it was just some extra paracord a friend had laying around that he let me have so this is not the colors i will be using on my PSU i have the Red,Black and White in the mail right now i was just seeing if i could do it is all lol i wish i had longer cable to practice on but ill have the the psu to start working on in 3 days time so really excited and looking forward to it xD


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> lol thanks it was just some extra paracord a friend had laying around that he let me have so this is not the colors i will be using on my PSU i have the Red,Black and White in the mail right now i was just seeing if i could do it is all lol i wish i had longer cable to practice on but ill have the the psu to start working on in 3 days time so really excited and looking forward to it xD


Do yourself a favor and grab some 18ga hook-up wire, some crimps and a crimper, It's pretty tough to do the whole job without buggering up at least one of the wires/connectors.


----------



## Craigk19

Really? O no now I'm scared I don't know how to do that 0.o


----------



## TeamBlue

Wouldnt be worried about it. Just watch a few Lutro0 videos and take your time. There are plenty of people who can help if you get in some trouble.


----------



## MotO

I haven't been in this thread in forever but I noticed people are doing heatshrinkless stuff now. How?


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotO*
> 
> I haven't been in this thread in forever but I noticed people are doing heatshrinkless stuff now. How?







and for paracord


----------



## MotO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and for paracord


Nice. Thanks.


----------



## BuToNz




----------



## socketus

I'ma confussud. 3 separate loops ? all look nice, are you gonna combine them in one build ? That would be something entirely new and different.
Oh wait a minute - they're all 24 pin loops. Well, for a minute there, thought I had seen something ...still, look great.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

How do I keep a nice tight harness? It seems that the nice looking cables have a uniform layout, all the wires are nice and tight against each other while others are loose. Do you trim the cable to remove all slack them recrimp and sleeve?


----------



## socketus

You can sew the cables together - http://www.overclock.net/t/1161607/caselabs-th10-red-and-black-build/10#post_15786670

there are several wire looms available that serve to act as combs - http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c34/s1510/list/p1/b154/ModSmart-Wire_Management-Kobra_Cable_Bundlers-Page1.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c34/s806/list/p1/b154/ModSmart-Wire_Management-Wire_Saddles-Page1.html

Here's one example - http://www.overclock.net/t/1312023/build-log-merlin-water-cooled-r-atx-sm8-w-dual-pedestals-z77x-ud5h/430#post_18824747

Or just use zip ties - http://www.overclock.net/t/1161607/caselabs-th10-red-and-black-build/10#post_15775530

Dwood is an artisan who is in the process of adding these combs to his site for purchase

http://www.overclock.net/t/1326861/sleeving-spacers-by-dwood-group-buy-discussion

You can train the sleeved cables to stay - http://www.overclock.net/t/1295989/build-log-caselabs-sth10-aquacomputer-evga-seanimus448/650#post_18883735


----------



## golfergolfer

Hi just a few quick questions!

I need a sleeving size that will fit x amount of wires inside:

8 Wires - Im thinking maybe 16mm

4 Wires - Im thinking 6 or 8mm

2 Wires - Im thinking 3mm

I know that 1 Wire the size is about 1/8" but suggestions on these?

How about Sata Cables and possibly USB 3.0 size? Is it possible (for the USB 3.0 at least)

If I found heat shrink large enough would I be able to put it around the entire connector of a 6 pin and still be able to hold the wires in place?

Idea being this below? (reason I ask about the 8 wires in one sleeve)



I know this is alot but I would really appreciate some help


----------



## smith87e

heres one Cpu 8 pin cable ive done doesnt look to bad for first timer heatshrinkless method. PCIe and 24 pin is going to be a nightmare because of corsairs brillant idea to cross wires and use non standard methods


----------



## dipzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotO*
> 
> I haven't been in this thread in forever but I noticed people are doing heatshrinkless stuff now. How?


One thing i can't figure out is how to get it neat like this


----------



## longroadtrip

That is an extension and not a PSU cable, so it is a straight pin to pin connection, plus it is custom wires (the inside wires of the arc are shorter than the top wires)


----------



## wompwomp

Hey guys, so I bought some red paracord off of a seller on ebay, and I am not too pleased with the color. The red is almost of a lighter red, kind of like a "faded" looking red. I really wanted a full. vibrant red color. Has anyone else had this problem, and does anyone know where I can get some vibrant red paracord?

Also, what's the difference between nylon paracord and polyester paracord?


----------



## Holynacho

First go at sleeving. Sorry for the bad photo, only have a camera phone


----------



## Layo

I've got light blue-white motherboard, red rams and very dark green (almost black) card and silver cpu fan. I wasn't really thinking about sleeving since my rig is colorbook but if anyone has cool idea, I will be happy. I don't even have windowed case so it doesn't really matter. So after all I can't see inside my black 300R, only from front, top and back and I would love to put some leds in there. What colour shall it be? I was mostly thinking about white or blue and get another Isku (blue backlight keyboard) and maybe put some blue leds behind my monitor which wouldn't be really cool with wihte.
Any suggestions?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> I've got light blue-white motherboard, red rams and very dark green (almost black) card and silver cpu fan. I wasn't really thinking about sleeving since my rig is colorbook but if anyone has cool idea, I will be happy. I don't even have windowed case so it doesn't really matter. So after all I can't see inside my black 300R, only from front, top and back and I would love to put some leds in there. What colour shall it be? I was mostly thinking about white or blue and get another Isku (blue backlight keyboard) and maybe put some blue leds behind my monitor which wouldn't be really cool with wihte.
> Any suggestions?


I'd say go for some white lighting since it shows the colour of each individual component and not just tiny everything the colour of the led.
As for sleeving you could go for some rainbow sleeving or colour code the colour if the sleeving with what it is powering ie green sleeve for gpu power since your gpu is green


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> I'd say go for some white lighting since it shows the colour of each individual component and not just tiny everything the colour of the led.
> As for sleeving you could go for some rainbow sleeving or colour code the colour if the sleeving with what it is powering ie green sleeve for gpu power since your gpu is green


It's more likely black, it's very dark green. I don't have windowed case so there isnt really point in white light, am i right? I could do 4/24pin light blue and white for and pain rams, but again there's the gpu :s Guess I will just light it and leave sleeving for now.


----------



## audioholic

RUH ROH!!!!


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> RUH ROH!!!!


That's not MDPC's website


----------



## audioholic

NOPE!


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Well I tried sleeving tonight. I'm horrible at it. Cut first 2 sleeves too short, then ruined 3 pieces of heatshrink by trying to push the cable into the connector.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> NOPE!


is that Lutro0's site?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> is that Lutro0's site?


No Mike doesn't do sleeve yet. It's a cart from the shop that sent him a load of free stuff in order to get mentioned in the FAQ.


----------



## Craigk19

First attempt at sleeving now to do a lot of double wires to get 2 8 to 2 6 for gpus :/ lol I can't figure out the training them though :/


----------



## DirtyTrickster

When applying a white or red sleeve on a non white or red wire, is it recommended to cover the wire with electrical tape? That's what I'm trying to do, which makes the wire a little thicker and the sleeve shorter. Then I was thinking, if I covered some wire with electrical tape would it make it look "thicker" than the others? If so, should I cover all wire with tape so they are all the same looking?


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> When applying a white or red sleeve on a non white or red wire, is it recommended to cover the wire with electrical tape? That's what I'm trying to do, which makes the wire a little thicker and the sleeve shorter. Then I was thinking, if I covered some wire with electrical tape would it make it look "thicker" than the others? If so, should I cover all wire with tape so they are all the same looking?


If it's paracord, don't worry about it. If it's not, yeah it will show through a little bit. Thicker wires will look thicker, so you might want to do them all for uniformity's sake. After all, sleeving is purely aesthetics, why not go the extra mile and be happy with the result? Sounds like you're on the right track.


----------



## Holynacho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> When applying a white or red sleeve on a non white or red wire, is it recommended to cover the wire with electrical tape? That's what I'm trying to do, which makes the wire a little thicker and the sleeve shorter. Then I was thinking, if I covered some wire with electrical tape would it make it look "thicker" than the others? If so, should I cover all wire with tape so they are all the same looking?


I just used a black permanent marker to blacken the wires. Alot faster then wrapping with electical tape and doesn't add to width.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Holynacho*
> 
> I just used a black permanent marker to blacken the wires. Alot faster then wrapping with electical tape and doesn't add to width.


I have white and red sleeve though. I would need white and red wire.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> No Mike doesn't do sleeve yet. It's a cart from the shop that sent him a load of free stuff in order to get mentioned in the FAQ.


Which reminds me I need to put up the BitFenix ones as well. It had nothing to do with the stuff, as its all getting shipped back out at package filler for all of my orders, which I so with 90 percent of anything that comes in for reviews. =). It was about getting reviews up for different stores so people know their are choices, either good or bad. =P


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Which reminds me I need to put up the BitFenix ones as well. It had nothing to do with the stuff, as its all getting shipped back out at package filler for all of my orders, which I so with 90 percent of anything that comes in for reviews. =). It was about getting reviews up for different stores so people know their are choices, either good or bad. =P


You haven't posted here for a week, I'm just making sure you are still reading


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You haven't posted here for a week, I'm just making sure you are still reading


Haha, goober. I have been super busy with many things.


----------



## BuToNz




----------



## protzman

Will this pinout work for my seasonic platinum 860W psu?


----------



## WebsterXC

My most recent sleeve job for my newest build. All the cables were made from scratch: custom wire lengths, manual crimps, the works. Sleeved in black-reflective paracord using the shrinkless method. Was not in the mood to set up fancy pictures, so this is what I threw together


----------



## TwentyCent

Cool stuff man!


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Will this pinout work for my seasonic platinum 860W psu?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just get in contact with seasonic and ask them for the pinout for your power supply. I did and they sent me a PDF with the pinouts for my X-1250. Just be warned that they might ask for some sort of proof of purchase like a receipt, which was easy for me I just sent them my newegg purchase order in PDF. They seem like a company that is willing to help got e-mails back the same day I sent them.


----------



## protzman

thanks man i already did! Ive just been waiting so long to finish my computer i received some custom wires from moddiy and sleeved em all tonight and was just ready to finish!
thank you for the reply though!


----------



## remixedMind

i`m tinging of doing my first cable sleeving and i need to know if the sleeve i`m gonna get will work, for the psu 3mm sveeving (heatshrinkles method) single sleeving, for the front panel 2mm whit 3.2mm heat shring, but i dont know what to get for the sata data cables, the sleeving is Polyethylene terephthalate. thanks


----------



## TeamBlue

Finished up some sleeving with neon orange and neon turquoise paracord from paracord planet. Let's just say I won't be using the lightshow effect on a daily basis.


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> thanks man i already did! Ive just been waiting so long to finish my computer i received some custom wires from moddiy and sleeved em all tonight and was just ready to finish!
> thank you for the reply though!


If that is the pinout you got from Seasonic then it will work. Also note that it mirrors my pinout for the X-1250 except that my 18p-7 is attached as a GNDs (ground sensing wire) and my 18p-6 is just a GND (ground wire).


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> thanks man i already did! Ive just been waiting so long to finish my computer i received some custom wires from moddiy and sleeved em all tonight and was just ready to finish!
> thank you for the reply though!


so thats why you weren't on starcraft last night.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Finished up some sleeving with neon orange and neon turquoise paracord from paracord planet. Let's just say I won't be using the lightshow effect on a daily basis.


jhajklhakjghfkjsd;lgheawt498 88i8rgzrjgz;dofjgzhkdfjghkdf;hz;hegzsoSisogjh;sikdlI:SDOLKgSKDOLgSDOGB;JSDgSD


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> jhajklhakjghfkjsd;lgheawt498 88i8rgzrjgz;dofjgzhkdfjghkdf;hz;hegzsoSisogjh;sikdlI:SDOLKgSKDOLgSDOGB;JSDgSD


you has seizure? lol


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> jhajklhakjghfkjsd;lgheawt498 88i8rgzrjgz;dofjgzhkdfjghkdf;hz;hegzsoSisogjh;sikdlI:SDOLKgSKDOLgSDOGB;JSDgSD
> 
> 
> 
> you has seizure? lol
Click to expand...

Yup

Sent from Vancouver Regional Hospital


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> so thats why you weren't on starcraft last night.


Yepp hahah was up working on my pc till like 5am


----------



## BuToNz




----------



## benito

need some help guys, i'm sleeving a Corsair hx850, as it is known the 24-pin, 8-pin CPU and 2x6+2 PCIe connectors aren't modular. how do i get the cables to fit back into the PSU. besides making the whole bigger to allow them to come out how do you make them all fit back into the PSU? can i just remove the fan so i can get the clearance?


----------



## OccultAssassin

Finally, got my sewing done. I was originally thinking of buying some clips/ making custom made acrylic cable holders to maintain the cable pattern/scheme, but I am glad I went with the sew. It might scrunch the cables a bit, but there is less of a footprint to hold the cables together and there are no bulky cable holders in the way. Much respect goes to FrankNSteinPC youtube channel for the great tutorial videos for sewing cables as well as Pongo for his great pictures and guide to help clear up visuals that the 480p on the youtube video couldn't show. One word for those who are thinking of doing this, Patience, for a great sew and look you'll need it.


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> need some help guys, i'm sleeving a Corsair hx850, as it is known the 24-pin, 8-pin CPU and 2x6+2 PCIe connectors aren't modular. how do i get the cables to fit back into the PSU. besides making the whole bigger to allow them to come out how do you make them all fit back into the PSU? can i just remove the fan so i can get the clearance?


Don't permanently remove the fan as that is a bad idea. Have you tried using zip ties to bring the cables closer to one another and scrunch them together? That should help you to get them back in the hole.


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OccultAssassin*
> 
> Don't permanently remove the fan as that is a bad idea. Have you tried using zip ties to bring the cables closer to one another and scrunch them together? That should help you to get them back in the hole.


already did ziptie. ran out of sleeving before i could get to the PCIe cables


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> already did ziptie. ran out of sleeving before i could get to the PCIe cables
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks like you still have some room to pull the ties tigher and scrunch the cables a bit more, but I could be wrong. If not the only other way I can think of right now is to use a dremel and increase the hole. After the hole is increased buy some u-channel molding to cover up the enlarged hole and protect the sleeve from the metal edge cutting it. This way you can get rid of the grommet that corsair puts around the hole.

Edit: Just thought that if you don't want to cut the hole and add u-channel molding there may be an additional way. If you are only looking to use at max a dual SLI or CXF you could possibly remove the two 6+2 PCIE cables coming from the mainboard. To me this would be an extreme last measure.


----------



## WebsterXC

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OccultAssassin*
> 
> Finally, got my sewing done. I was originally thinking of buying some clips/ making custom made acrylic cable holders to maintain the cable pattern/scheme, but I am glad I went with the sew. It might scrunch the cables a bit, but there is less of a footprint to hold the cables together and there are no bulky cable holders in the way. Much respect goes to FrankNSteinPC youtube channel for the great tutorial videos for sewing cables as well as Pongo for his great pictures and guide to help clear up visuals that the 480p on the youtube video couldn't show. One word for those who are thinking of doing this, Patience, for a great sew and look you'll need it.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OccultAssassin*
> 
> Finally, got my sewing done. I was originally thinking of buying some clips/ making custom made acrylic cable holders to maintain the cable pattern/scheme, but I am glad I went with the sew. It might scrunch the cables a bit, but there is less of a footprint to hold the cables together and there are no bulky cable holders in the way. Much respect goes to FrankNSteinPC youtube channel for the great tutorial videos for sewing cables as well as Pongo for his great pictures and guide to help clear up visuals that the 480p on the youtube video couldn't show. One word for those who are thinking of doing this, Patience, for a great sew and look you'll need it.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


WoW ! done with a Seasonic, too ! NO MORE EXCUSES !! wow, the PCI-E cabling is so STRAIGHT !... I take it you wired from fresh wires ? or else cut the 2pins off the graphics cabling.

Either way







If it wre a Cable rating, I'd give a 20/10


----------



## Noskcaj

Has anyone used these before? i'm planning gold and black. will post Pic's when finished.


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thank you. Much appreciated.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> WoW ! done with a Seasonic, too ! NO MORE EXCUSES !! wow, the PCI-E cabling is so STRAIGHT !... I take it you wired from fresh wires ? or else cut the 2pins off the graphics cabling.
> 
> Either way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it wre a Cable rating, I'd give a 20/10


Thanks for the kind words!







Yeah all wires were custom made. Also dropped the two pins from PCIE since I am using 670s and it keeps it clean. Otherwise I would have to splice them and route them through the back just to cover the splicing.


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OccultAssassin*


Looks amazing, is it possible it's...TOO CLEAN?!?!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OccultAssassin*


Fantastic!


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> Looks amazing, is it possible it's...TOO CLEAN?!?!


Thanks. Haha, if only it were too clean. Hindsight being 20-20 I think there are some places where it could've been a little better, but I'll keep those ideas in the back of my mind for the next project.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Fantastic!


Thank you. Oh and thanks again for the "go with white thread" sewing suggestion as you can see it turned out very well.


----------



## Toad Boy

Has anyone managed to sleeve Corsiar HX sata power cables with paracord? Heatshrinkless?


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OccultAssassin*


Loving this so much man. Look so good and is so clean. 11/10.









i hate to be a critic but you could get 12/10 if you matched each thread to each cable. It would be tedious work but it sure can be done!


----------



## Belial

I really wish people would say exactly what colors they used.

Occult assassin, nice job, I'm gonna do a similar theme with my system (white/blue, ud5h). Your blue is a little too dark (for the build Im planning to do, looks great in yours). Which blue is it?

And what's a good 24 pin/8pin/pci-e pin remover tool (dont need molex/sata/etc)? After trying to test out pin removal using staples, I'm convinced I need to buy a good tool. I'm typically the type of person who saves every last dollar (just look at my $200 sig rig, even my i5 build is quite penny pinching) but my god trying to use staples was barbaric, I can't do that.


----------



## Nick7269

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toad Boy*
> 
> Has anyone managed to sleeve Corsiar HX sata power cables with paracord? Heatshrinkless?


Yes, it has been done. Actually pretty easy imo. What is really nice about it, is you can move the connectors closer together, eliminate extra unneeded wire. Makes a nice cleaner look.


----------



## Nick7269

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> Has anyone used these before? i'm planning gold and black. will post Pic's when finished.


I have not seen anyone use the mylar before. I have bought from furry letters, they are easy to deal with. Good customer service.


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I really wish people would say exactly what colors they used.
> 
> Occult assassin, nice job, I'm gonna do a similar theme with my system (white/blue, ud5h). Your blue is a little too dark (for the build Im planning to do, looks great in yours). Which blue is it?
> 
> And what's a good 24 pin/8pin/pci-e pin remover tool (dont need molex/sata/etc)? After trying to test out pin removal using staples, I'm convinced I need to buy a good tool. I'm typically the type of person who saves every last dollar (just look at my $200 sig rig, even my i5 build is quite penny pinching) but my god trying to use staples was barbaric, I can't do that.


I am using MDPC sleeving and the colors are B-Magic, white, a black. If the blue is too dark Nils has an aquamarine blue that is lighter. As for the pin extraction tool you can get them from digikey and they are molex minifit jr. branded essentially the same ones that Nils sells at www.en.mdpc-x.com . If you are getting sleeve from him consider buying the molex extraction pin tool from him as it helps support the great business he has got. Otherwise you can buy it from digikey here: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0011030044/WM9918-ND/210947


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick7269*
> 
> Yes, it has been done. Actually pretty easy imo. What is really nice about it, is you can move the connectors closer together, eliminate extra unneeded wire. Makes a nice cleaner look.


show us where or who or how


----------



## Nick7269

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> show us where or who or how


Here is a few pictures, I know most people that sleeve there cables end up covering there sata power cables also. Once you pop the cover off, pull the wires out, cut to fit, add your sleeve, then push the wires back into he slots with a small flat head screw driver.
Here is what it looks like when you pull the cap off. Then just pull the wires out.




Here is my old sleeve job that I am getting ready to change for the new case.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OccultAssassin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I really wish people would say exactly what colors they used.
> 
> Occult assassin, nice job, I'm gonna do a similar theme with my system (white/blue, ud5h). Your blue is a little too dark (for the build Im planning to do, looks great in yours). Which blue is it?
> 
> And what's a good 24 pin/8pin/pci-e pin remover tool (dont need molex/sata/etc)? After trying to test out pin removal using staples, I'm convinced I need to buy a good tool. I'm typically the type of person who saves every last dollar (just look at my $200 sig rig, even my i5 build is quite penny pinching) but my god trying to use staples was barbaric, I can't do that.
> 
> 
> 
> I am using MDPC sleeving and the colors are B-Magic, white, a black. If the blue is too dark Nils has an aquamarine blue that is lighter. As for the pin extraction tool you can get them from digikey and they are molex minifit jr. branded essentially the same ones that Nils sells at www.en.mdpc-x.com . If you are getting sleeve from him consider buying the molex extraction pin tool from him as it helps support the great business he has got. Otherwise you can buy it from digikey here: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0011030044/WM9918-ND/210947
Click to expand...

oooh. i was gonna go for paracord.

I dont need molex remover, I just need motherboard pin remover. and $20 before shipping for a pin remover is ridiculous.

I'm considering doing a white/electric blue paracord job on the 8 pin cpu, 2 x 6pin pci, and 24pin. just like 5 inches of paracord sleeving, so the part that comes out and attaches to the mobo, is sleeved up, while where the cables come out the psu, they are still in single black sleeve. Use a cable tie or something to hold the paracord in, i mean most of the cables behind motherboard tray, just needs to be the part that attaches to mobo that look pretty (the heatshrink on these cx500 is like 4 inches before the pins, looks terrible). will go heatshrinkless too.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I dont need molex remover, I just need motherboard pin remover. and $20 before shipping for a pin remover is ridiculous.


That is the motherboard pin remover (for ATX/PCIe/EPS pins). Molex Corp invented all the pins used in PCs, not just the ones people commonly call "molex".


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick7269*
> 
> Here is a few pictures, I know most people that sleeve there cables end up covering there sata power cables also. Once you pop the cover off, pull the wires out, cut to fit, add your sleeve, then push the wires back into he slots with a small flat head screw driver.
> Here is what it looks like when you pull the cap off. Then just pull the wires out.


So do you just stick the sleeve into the cover for the shrinkless? Do you have to melt it like you do when you are doing 24pin connectors?


----------



## jd2195

I am currently trying to sleeve an ocz zt series 750 watt fully modular power supply and I am having a lot of problems trying to remove the pins. I am using a pulse modding atx pin removal tool but I also have a original molex pin removal tool from mdpc however I find less effective. Does anyone have tips that I could try to use that would make getting the pins out any easier?


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jd2195*
> 
> I am currently trying to sleeve an ocz zt series 750 watt fully modular power supply and I am having a lot of problems trying to remove the pins. I am using a pulse modding atx pin removal tool but I also have a original molex pin removal tool from mdpc however I find less effective. Does anyone have tips that I could try to use that would make getting the pins out any easier?


Using the mdpc original molex connector, try bending, very slightly, the tips of the prongs in towards each other. I've only done this for very stubborn pins that don't want to come out.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jd2195*
> 
> I am currently trying to sleeve an ocz zt series 750 watt fully modular power supply and I am having a lot of problems trying to remove the pins. I am using a pulse modding atx pin removal tool but I also have a original molex pin removal tool from mdpc however I find less effective. Does anyone have tips that I could try to use that would make getting the pins out any easier?


Here's my epic drawing of what the pin (black) looks like inside the connector (brown). You see that the wings are digging into the plastic. You need to push the pin first deeper into the connector to free the wings (upwards on drawing). Then insert the extraction tool, but don't pull the pin yet. Wiggle it around and push it some more to make sure the wings are really free. Only then will the extraction tool be able to depress the wings so they can slide out. It might need a little force still, but not enough to whiten your knuckles.


----------



## jd2195

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> Using the mdpc original molex connector, try bending, very slightly, the tips of the prongs in towards each other. I've only done this for very stubborn pins that don't want to come out.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Here's my epic drawing of what the pin (black) looks like inside the connector (brown). You see that the wings are digging into the plastic. You need to push the pin first deeper into the connector to free the wings (upwards on drawing). Then insert the extraction tool, but don't pull the pin yet. Wiggle it around and push it some more to make sure the wings are really free. Only then will the extraction tool be able to depress the wings so they can slide out. It might need a little force still, but not enough to whiten your knuckles.


Thanks guys. I have tried both of these and I still cannot get the pins out at all. Might have to consider making my own wires because these are absolutely impossible to get out.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jd2195*
> 
> Thanks guys. I have tried both of these and I still cannot get the pins out at all. Might have to consider making my own wires because these are absolutely impossible to get out.


They are very snug even with using the tool. I seriously have to wrap the end of the wire around my finger, press my thumb against the connector and pull while holding the extraction tool with my other hand. I have multiple gashes on my thumb due to the two prongs sticking up that are perpendicular to the "wings" in the picture below.


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> They are very snug even with using the tool. I seriously have to wrap the end of the wire around my finger, press my thumb against the connector and pull while holding the extraction tool with my other hand. I have multiple gashes on my thumb due to the two prongs sticking up that are perpendicular to the "wings" in the picture below.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


you need to, step:
1. insert the, MDPC original pin extractor about 3/4 the way in
2. push up on the wire, opposite of the way it comes out.
3. push the tool all the way in
4. pull the wire out.

may be what seems a dumb question, but are you putting in the tool correctly?

fixing teacher computers a few years back i got a request to fix a cd drive that wasn't opening. turned out that the computer was off and the teacher thought the monitor was asleep.

this isn't me and it's not my video but this is how i learned


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> you need to, step:
> 1. insert the, MDPC original pin extractor about 3/4 the way in
> 2. push up on the wire, opposite of the way it comes out.
> 3. push the tool all the way in
> 4. pull the wire out.
> 
> may be what seems a dumb question, but are you putting in the tool correctly?
> 
> fixing teacher computers a few years back i got a request to fix a cd drive that wasn't opening. turned out that the computer was off and the teacher thought the monitor was asleep.
> 
> this isn't me and it's not my video but this is how i learned


Some power supplies are harder than others. They must use different brand pins and connectors. My Seasonic is a bear to get out, but an old gateway power supply I have laying around is much easier. I had to steal a pin/wire from it while sleeving my Seasonic and I was surprised how much easier it was.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> They must use different brand pins and connectors... I was surprised how much easier it was.


This. When PSU manufacturers source the connectors and pins they are looking at whether it will plug in to a motherboard, if it will carry the correct current and that it won't melt. They aren't worried about depinning at all. Often the inside of the cheaper connectors are totally different than the specifications. Even ACRyan and mod/right connectors, which are designed for modding after all, are not ideal to work with.

Only Molex Corp is worried about depinning. It's a whole different experience once you depin a Molex pin from a Molex connector with the Molex extraction tool.


----------



## TwentyCent

I've had the "impossibletotakeapart" problem on my Antec PSU. So I bit the bullet and bought the MDPC tool. My PSU is non-modular, so I've taken it apart, cut all the wires to make them short, then recrimped everything. Bye bye stupid crimps.
That way, I can now use extension instead







. Bought some non-modded extensions from Dazmode, cheap and convenient!


----------



## longroadtrip

I know it sounds crazy, but I've heard of people putting the connectors in hot/boiling water to soften them up a bit to get the pins out with a molex tool.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> I know it sounds crazy, but I've heard of people putting the connectors in hot/boiling water to soften them up a bit to get the pins out with a molex tool.


I've heard that too, but I think it's just placebo, because nylon doesn't soften until well past 180C.


----------



## buildtoexcess

the molex manufactured connector shells have "controlled/tight tolerance" flashing @ edge of pin ledge/pin support surface --- young yak (yy) also precise --- all others anyone's guess

the current molex tool for minifit series pn 011030044e simply works best

molex states in pdf tool spec " if pin does not release after tool is fully inserted, while firmly holding inserted tool, PUSH wire of pin TOWARD tool and than withdraw pin "

wire used in psu cabling is usually rated ot 80c or 85c, not 105c --- YES to hot air gun on connector shell (nylon 66 is spec) NO TO HOT WATER IMMERSION


----------



## MissStinkyBum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jd2195*
> 
> I am currently trying to sleeve an ocz zt series 750 watt fully modular power supply and I am having a lot of problems trying to remove the pins. I am using a pulse modding atx pin removal tool but I also have a original molex pin removal tool from mdpc however I find less effective. Does anyone have tips that I could try to use that would make getting the pins out any easier?


I'm sleeving the 550w at the moment, I found staples to be most effective, after lots of wiggling the wire around they came out eventually!


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I dont need molex remover, I just need motherboard pin remover. and $20 before shipping for a pin remover is ridiculous.
> 
> 
> 
> That is the motherboard pin remover (for ATX/PCIe/EPS pins). Molex Corp invented all the pins used in PCs, not just the ones people commonly call "molex".
Click to expand...

Ah, okay. Well $20+ for a pin remover is insane.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> They are very snug even with using the tool. I seriously have to wrap the end of the wire around my finger, press my thumb against the connector and pull while holding the extraction tool with my other hand. I have multiple gashes on my thumb due to the two prongs sticking up that are perpendicular to the "wings" in the picture below.


Highly recommend you soften the plastic of the connector with a hairdryer before you attempt to pull the pins out if they are giving you that much trouble. It is the only solution that has ever worked every time for me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Ah, okay. Well $20+ for a pin remover is insane.


Only if you're using it once. If you do 2+ power supplies and the tool lasts you through all of them then I'd say it's money well spent.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Ah, okay. Well $20+ for a pin remover is insane.


although it is expensive for such a tiny tool made of simple materials it is but a small tiny fraction of the complete build cost.


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OccultAssassin*
> 
> Finally, got my sewing done. I was originally thinking of buying some clips/ making custom made acrylic cable holders to maintain the cable pattern/scheme, but I am glad I went with the sew. It might scrunch the cables a bit, but there is less of a footprint to hold the cables together and there are no bulky cable holders in the way. Much respect goes to FrankNSteinPC youtube channel for the great tutorial videos for sewing cables as well as Pongo for his great pictures and guide to help clear up visuals that the 480p on the youtube video couldn't show. One word for those who are thinking of doing this, Patience, for a great sew and look you'll need it.


do a tutorial on how to make it not twisted with the little pieces of string! i have only seen 1 tutorial and it make no sense...


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> do a tutorial on how to make it not twisted with the little pieces of string! i have only seen 1 tutorial and it make no sense...


Have you looked at Pongo's Cable sewing guide or watched 



? I would try to do a tutorial video, but all I have is a crappy cell phone camera. I'll see if I can borrow a camera from a friend or colleague that is better than a cell phone so I can make a video tutorial.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Ah, okay. Well $20+ for a pin remover is insane.


Yepp... Especially when you break it before your done sleeving because your power supply is a stingy little ****


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OccultAssassin*
> 
> Have you looked at Pongo's Cable sewing guide or watched
> 
> 
> 
> ? I would try to do a tutorial video, but all I have is a crappy cell phone camera. I'll see if I can borrow a camera from a friend or colleague that is better than a cell phone so I can make a video tutorial.


those were the tuts i was talking about hahaha


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> those were the tuts i was talking about hahaha


Alright well I'll see if I can get a good camera and shoot a tutorial video showing you what I did.


----------



## Belial

Im sure there's a psu pin remover for less than $20 somewhere... okgear is on ebay for $5.


----------



## WebsterXC

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3836/too-07/FrozenCPU_Dual_Head_ATX_Connector_Removal_Tool_ATX_4-pin_P4_6-pin_PCI-E_8-pin_Xeon_Auxiliary_3-pin_or_4-pin_Fan_Flop.html?tl=g35c133s257


----------



## buildtoexcess

www.newark.com (newark electronics/farnell/element14) simply search Molex-11-03-0044-EXTRACTION-TOOL price is $16.92usd made in usa and I have come across even lower prices for 1-2 piece quantity purchase

search abit

NOT mild steel construction either

& also offer some nice raspberry pi bundles


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Anyone know whether the NZXT Hale 90 series of PSUs have any funny cable configurations i.e. split wires etc?


----------



## mrrockwell

Here are my cable extensions. After I did sleeving job on my ax 850 i had some paracord leftover so I decided to do these.










Here's also my build log.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1334774/case-mod-redefine


----------



## Radmanhs

how hard was it to sleeve the ax850? i want to sleeve mine but i hear is a pain with crossed and splitting wires


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> how hard was it to sleeve the ax850? i want to sleeve mine but i hear is a pain with crossed and splitting wires


It's not that hard when you know what are you doing. I have a series od how to videos regarding sleeving and also how to do double wires but in croatian


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> It's not that hard when you know what are you doing. I have a series od how to videos regarding sleeving and also how to do double wires but in croatian


link?


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> link?


Sry I'm sending this from my iPhone, hope the link works




Also check


----------



## freitz

What PSU is easy to sleeve? 850-1200 watts


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> What PSU is easy to sleeve? 850-1200 watts


SST-ST85F-G Evolution all one-to-one cables, no double wires.


----------



## kalosbas

how can i sleeve the hx850 pci-e extension wires? the third cable from the left, where there is an extension for 8pin pci. any helpful pictures would be perfect for reference


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kalosbas*
> 
> how can i sleeve the hx850 pci-e extension wires? the third cable from the left, where there is an extension for 8pin pci. any helpful pictures would be perfect for reference


You either splice the extra 2pin ground wires into another ground pin or remove them completely. I think most people have gone for the latter as a lot of GPU's that have 8pin connections don't actually need the extra 2pins connected.


----------



## kalosbas

i have a gtx580 which needs an 8 pin and a 6 pin cable, the psu has both cables as 6 pin plus 2. should i cut the one i dont need and sleeve the other one?


----------



## kalosbas

nevermind i just found ontic's sleeving guide and i'll go with that!


----------



## goodtobeking

im sleeving the same psu. what I am going to do is to sleeve the modular cables for pcie. and since I only need 4 cables the permenet two are just going to be routed to the back and used for their 12v wires.

my thought doing just the modular cables is the that I dont want to void my warrenty


----------



## volegradele

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Here are my cable extensions. After I did sleeving job on my ax 850 i had some paracord leftover so I decided to do these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's also my build log.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1334774/case-mod-redefine


Nice work,still on paracorde .







)


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Here are my cable extensions. After I did sleeving job on my ax 850 i had some paracord leftover so I decided to do these.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's also my build log.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1334774/case-mod-redefine


Looking good. Nice clean and tight paracord. Adding another color would make the main color pop better, but that is just my opinion. Not sure I am digging the tags on each cable, but if it is your symbol/identifier I can understand why you are using them. Overall


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

I'd like to get the opinions of the Cable Sleeving crew as to what color combinations you think I should go with for my current build. I have a wide variety of colors, but these are my four favorite ones. Here are four choices, please let me know what you think, or come up with another possibility and I'll see if I can whip it up and take a photograph real quick. These will go to my 2 EVGA GTX 580 video cards.



Choice 1 - Black, Gray, Orange, Gray, Orange, Gray, Black



Choice 2 - Black, Orange, Gray, Orange, Gray Orange, Black



Choice 3 - Black, Gray, Orange, Orange, Orange, Gray, Black



Choice 1 - Black, Gray, Orange, Yellow, Orange, Gray, Black

Here is a photo of the computer build that they will be going into:



Please note, this is still a work in progress. I will be moving some of the water cooling tubes around (I just wanted to get things up and running for stability testing) and I will be using a matching orange coolant dye in the tubes (which I'm waiting for from England). Also, that silver PSU cover will be painted the same orange as the upper radiator and I will mount a Samsung 840 Pro SSD on the side of it to show it off.

The color combinations come from the title of the build, Project "Muzzle Flash" which is based on, you guessed it ...


----------



## sinnedone

2 or 3, you need more orange in there.









The yellow and orange dont look together in my opinion.


----------



## WebsterXC

I'm all about number 1


----------



## audioholic

Just trying out the sleeving from sleeve-modding.com









Here is the difference between FTW v2 and "sleeve-modding"


----------



## Laine

White, Titanium MK1, Color-X.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Wow.

YOU'RE BACK. I've missed your build's.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laine*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White, Titanium MK1, Color-X.


What is that RAM, it looks AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## alabrand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> What is that RAM, it looks AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


I believe that it is the white version of Corsair's low profile Vengeance RAM.


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laine*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White, Titanium MK1, Color-X.






I am really liking that color combo!

What build log is that from of yours?


----------



## BuToNz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laine*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White, Titanium MK1, Color-X.






Looks fantastic, can't help but think some white connectors would be even better.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Check out my video for sleeving 24 pin, 8 pin and 6 pin using paracord without using Heatshrink




And how to remove sata connectors, inline and end connectors as well as sleeving


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Just trying out the sleeving from sleeve-modding.com


What is sleeve-modding and FTW ? Unfortunate pics are not very clear.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *em ht*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Just trying out the sleeving from sleeve-modding.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is sleeve-modding and FTW ? Unfortunate pics are not very clear.
Click to expand...

FTW PC was a PC store ... didn't know it still existed









http://sleeve-modding.com/


----------



## audioholic

Doesnt exist as far as I know...and sorry about the photos I only have my phone till my DSLR is fixed








I had FTW sleeve from last year.
On a side note--- crimping ATX pins...can anyone show me how to use the crimping tool? I tried a couple pins and it doesnt bend the "fins" onto the wire and just smashes the rest of the pin.
Edit: I got it figured out







Custom cables here I come


----------



## em ht

What kind of crimp-tool have you?


----------



## Gardnerphotos

How is the AX 760i for sleeving? any one know of double wires or spliced wires or any funny business like that?


----------



## kazzjohnson

This thread is ridiculous (in a good way).

Here I am, thinking about how it would be cool to mod my PSU to perfectly fit my needs, I do some googling, find this thread and BAM! Never thought something as simple as cable sleeving could be actually so complicated.

A lot of reading to do...

Edit:

It's probably explained somewhere and I haven't reached that part yet, but how are cables attached to the PSU? I mean inside it. When you do cable sleeving, do you have to open the PSU? If you have connectors that you don't use, is it difficult to just detach them and don't use them at all? How about cable shortening? Is that complicated? And lastly, how much sleeves do you need for average PSU? Is 30.5 meters (100 feet) enough?


----------



## kazzjohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OccultAssassin*
> 
> Finally, got my sewing done. I was originally thinking of buying some clips/ making custom made acrylic cable holders to maintain the cable pattern/scheme, but I am glad I went with the sew. It might scrunch the cables a bit, but there is less of a footprint to hold the cables together and there are no bulky cable holders in the way. Much respect goes to FrankNSteinPC youtube channel for the great tutorial videos for sewing cables as well as Pongo for his great pictures and guide to help clear up visuals that the 480p on the youtube video couldn't show. One word for those who are thinking of doing this, Patience, for a great sew and look you'll need it.


This has got to be the single most beautiful PC interior I have ever seen. I wasn't aware something like this is even possible.

I find it funny and/or weird that you have SLI GTX 670 and stock CPU cooler, though.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzjohnson*
> 
> I find it funny and/or weird that you have SLI GTX 670 and stock CPU cooler, though.


It's just there until the water arrives


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzjohnson*
> 
> This thread is ridiculous (in a good way).
> 
> Here I am, thinking about how it would be cool to mod my PSU to perfectly fit my needs, I do some googling, find this thread and BAM! Never thought something as simple as cable sleeving could be actually so complicated.
> 
> A lot of reading to do...


In my opinion, sleeving isn't nearly as hard as it would seem. I have absolutely 0 artistic talent, and yet I managed to do an absolutely killer heatshrinkless sleeving job on my AX750. The AX power supplies aren't easy at all to sleeve either, but if you take your time (and study Lutro0s sleeving guides) I guarantee you or anyone else will have no problem getting the results you want.


----------



## kazzjohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> It's just there until the water arrives


Thought so.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> In my opinion, sleeving isn't nearly as hard as it would seem. I have absolutely 0 artistic talent, and yet I managed to do an absolutely killer heatshrinkless sleeving job on my AX750. The AX power supplies aren't easy at all to sleeve either, but if you take your time (and study Lutro0s sleeving guides) I guarantee you or anyone else will have no problem getting the results you want.


I've already watched some of his tutorials and you're right, it doesn't seem that complicated once you get the basics.

I didn't know you can sleeve without heat shrinks. Can you explain?

Also, can anyone answer my questions from last post?


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> In my opinion, sleeving isn't nearly as hard as it would seem. I have absolutely 0 artistic talent, and yet I managed to do an absolutely killer heatshrinkless sleeving job on my AX750. The AX power supplies aren't easy at all to sleeve either, but if you take your time (and study Lutro0s sleeving guides) I guarantee you or anyone else will have no problem getting the results you want.


Whats so tricky about the AX series?


----------



## longroadtrip

^^ All the double wires...


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzjohnson*
> 
> This thread is ridiculous (in a good way).
> 
> Here I am, thinking about how it would be cool to mod my PSU to perfectly fit my needs, I do some googling, find this thread and BAM! Never thought something as simple as cable sleeving could be actually so complicated.
> 
> A lot of reading to do...
> 
> Edit:
> 
> It's probably explained somewhere and I haven't reached that part yet, but how are cables attached to the PSU? I mean inside it. When you do cable sleeving, do you have to open the PSU? If you have connectors that you don't use, is it difficult to just detach them and don't use them at all? How about cable shortening? Is that complicated? And lastly, how much sleeves do you need for average PSU? Is 30.5 meters (100 feet) enough?


Cables attached to the psu - you must mean a non-modular psu, that I don't know. But there are plenty of pix on here showing just that. Yes you have to open the psu, thereby voiding the warranty.
Say you have a video card that needs the 8 pin and a 6 pin - you can snip off the 2 extra cables at the other end, no problem. Unless you upgrade in the future to a card that needs 2 8 pins !
Cable shortening - that's another lookup - its done and doable, but by that time, you've learned to depin and crimp and solder.
How much sleeving is needed ? Measure your 24 pin harness cable length - a lot are 650mm. Then multiply that single cable length by 24 pin. Now do the same for your other cables. Then add 10% of the total to reach your total amount of sleeving.

And you haven't even asked about different types of sleeving !!

http://www.mdpc-x.com/


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Cables attached to the psu - you must mean a non-modular psu, that I don't know. But there are plenty of pix on here showing just that. Yes you have to open the psu, thereby voiding the warranty.


Or you can just sleeve right up to the PSU opening, and not void your warranty


----------



## kazzjohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Cables attached to the psu - you must mean a non-modular psu, that I don't know. But there are plenty of pix on here showing just that. Yes you have to open the psu, thereby voiding the warranty.
> Say you have a video card that needs the 8 pin and a 6 pin - you can snip off the 2 extra cables at the other end, no problem. Unless you upgrade in the future to a card that needs 2 8 pins !
> Cable shortening - that's another lookup - its done and doable, but by that time, you've learned to depin and crimp and solder.
> How much sleeving is needed ? Measure your 24 pin harness cable length - a lot are 650mm. Then multiply that single cable length by 24 pin. Now do the same for your other cables. Then add 10% of the total to reach your total amount of sleeving.
> 
> And you haven't even asked about different types of sleeving !!
> 
> http://www.mdpc-x.com/


Thanks for detailed reply. Yes, I was asking about non-modular PSU.

Wow, so you need 15 meters of sleeves for 24 pin connector alone, provided you don't waste any... That's going to be more expensive than I thought.

I'm aware that there are different types, I've watched some of guides from OP. If I decide to go through with this, I'll probably take cheaper route, black sleeves from eBay.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzjohnson*
> 
> Thanks for detailed reply. Yes, I was asking about non-modular PSU.
> 
> Wow, so you need 15 meters of sleeves for 24 pin connector alone, provided you don't waste any... That's going to be more expensive than I thought.
> 
> I'm aware that there are different types, I've watched some of guides from OP. If I decide to go through with this, I'll probably take cheaper route, black sleeves from eBay.


If you wanna go the cheaper route use paracord. I doubt you can get any sleeve cheaper and you know it will do a good job. I bought a cheap sleeve kit from MC once just to clean some stuff up. I still have 90% of it because it sucked so bad I didnt use it.


----------



## NomNomNom

Does anyone else find it difficult to melt paracord thin enough so itll fit into the connector again?


----------



## goodtobeking

I pinched the melted paracord to grab the wire and to fit nicely in the connector, while it was still melted. I have callused hands and it didnt hurt much. Others may have done different but thats what I did


----------



## NomNomNom

Yeah i roll it in my fingers while its still molten and sometimes it still clumps up a bit


----------



## TeamBlue

The key is to melt a small amount. The more you melt, the more you gon' hafta razor off before it fits.


----------



## NomNomNom

Yeah it just seems that wheneber i melt a littebit it never sticks to the wire


----------



## NomNomNom

Yeah it just seems that wheneber i melt a littebit it never sticks to the wire


----------



## kazzjohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> If you wanna go the cheaper route use paracord. I doubt you can get any sleeve cheaper and you know it will do a good job. I bought a cheap sleeve kit from MC once just to clean some stuff up. I still have 90% of it because it sucked so bad I didnt use it.


What's paracord and what/who is MC?

When I said eBay, I meant FurryLetters, it's recommended in OP as good and cheap alternative to MDPC.


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Yeah it just seems that wheneber i melt a littebit it never sticks to the wire


Melt it over the crimp


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzjohnson*
> 
> What's paracord and what/who is MC?
> 
> When I said eBay, I meant FurryLetters, it's recommended in OP as good and cheap alternative to MDPC.


Ah ok Furryletters is good from what I hear. Paracord is a nylon string that has 1 million and 1 uses. It is a little harder to sleeve with as it doesnt expand. But it gives the wires a nice cloth feel and is super dense. MC is MicroCenter, sorry just to lame to type all the way out lol.

Some people dont loike paracord, but I prefer it. Google it and you will find a lot about it.

And to Nomnomnom, yeah you need to melt it to the bottom of the crimp. Sometimes it takes a few tries, but makes sure you get the crimp hot at the same time, which seems to help


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Ah ok Furryletters is good from what I hear. Paracord is a nylon string that has 1 million and 1 uses. It is a little harder to sleeve with as it doesnt expand. But it gives the wires a nice cloth feel and is super dense. MC is MicroCenter, sorry just to lame to type all the way out lol.
> 
> Some people dont loike paracord, but I prefer it. Google it and you will find a lot about it.
> 
> And to Nomnomnom, yeah you need to melt it to the bottom of the crimp. Sometimes it takes a few tries, but makes sure you get the crimp hot at the same time, which seems to help


So melt it just where the pin bites into the insulation?


----------



## audioholic

You want to put it where the wire and the flat part of the connector are. So you have the two "fins" then the flat part, then the wire...of you are in that "flat part" of the connector you should be fine.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> So melt it just where the pin bites into the insulation?


No past that. You melt it and squeeze/twist at the narrowest point. This way, it holds onto the wire by being smaller than the insulation.

_Edit: what audioholic said...








_


----------



## audioholic

Anyone know the best way to sleeve this? I am going for 8mm cable sleeving..so my goal is to have it look like this...

But it looks like this

(just one of those, so its the cable then the U)
I am doing all custom cables so if I have to do any soldering or cutting I am not concerned


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Anyone know the best way to sleeve this? I am going for 8mm cable sleeving..so my goal is to have it look like this...
> 
> But it looks like this
> 
> (just one of those, so its the cable then the U)
> I am doing all custom cables so if I have to do any soldering or cutting I am not concerned


Best way is going to be cutting off the double wires and splice them in so its a y instead of a u.


----------



## audioholic

thought so thanks


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> They are very snug even with using the tool. I seriously have to wrap the end of the wire around my finger, press my thumb against the connector and pull while holding the extraction tool with my other hand. I have multiple gashes on my thumb due to the two prongs sticking up that are perpendicular to the "wings" in the picture below.


Cant even begin to count the amount of times I have done that lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laine*
> 
> White, Titanium MK1, Color-X.


Great to see you posting here bud.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Got tired of taping every wire before sleeving it. Picked up some colored 3/32" heat-shrink to use instead. Much easier


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> Got tired of taping every wire before sleeving it. Picked up some colored 3/32" heat-shrink to use instead. Much easier


Why not just get a roll of this


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Why not just get a roll of this


I considered it. I would have had to buy 3 separate rolls, contacts and a crimp tool. I got hung up on the crimp tool as I would never use it again.

Ultimately I'm happy with the heat shrink. Cheaper, easier and faster.


----------



## Swiftes

ez guys just started trying to sleeve my XFX XXX 650w PSU, but however I try I cannot seem to get the pins out of the 24 pin or other connectors of that type. Im using a tool ive got from WCUK, and it seems to be going all the way in, I am wiggling but nothing is happening, even pulling on the cable hard. Any ideas?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swiftes*
> 
> ez guys just started trying to sleeve my XFX XXX 650w PSU, but however I try I cannot seem to get the pins out of the 24 pin or other connectors of that type. Im using a tool ive got from WCUK, and it seems to be going all the way in, I am wiggling but nothing is happening, even pulling on the cable hard. Any ideas?


Put the tool into the connector then push the wire further into the connector then push the tool into the connector and pull.
Might work might not.


----------



## Swiftes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Put the tool into the connector then push the wire further into the connector then push the tool into the connector and pull.
> Might work might not.


Managed to sort it now, required some heavy brute force. Ive got a pin out for all my connectors (xfx put them in the back pages) so if I take them out, it doesnt matter where each colour goes back in again for example?

ie : theres a couple of orange cables, do they all have to go back where they came out of or can they go back where any orange goes because they are the same? (+3.3v) hope that makes sense.


----------



## Th3 James

Mmmmm....Looks delicious.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swiftes*
> 
> Managed to sort it now, required some heavy brute force. Ive got a pin out for all my connectors (xfx put them in the back pages) so if I take them out, it doesnt matter where each colour goes back in again for example?
> 
> ie : theres a couple of orange cables, do they all have to go back where they came out of or can they go back where any orange goes because they are the same? (+3.3v) hope that makes sense.


My Gawd man ! take a picture, draw a picture of where all the cables connect. Its called a pin-out - without that road map you won't have a clue, apart from checking XFX's site for a pin-out on or OCN or the big wide web.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swiftes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Put the tool into the connector then push the wire further into the connector then push the tool into the connector and pull.
> Might work might not.
> 
> 
> 
> Managed to sort it now, required some heavy brute force. Ive got a pin out for all my connectors (xfx put them in the back pages) so if I take them out, it doesnt matter where each colour goes back in again for example?
> 
> ie : theres a couple of orange cables, do they all have to go back where they came out of or can they go back where any orange goes because they are the same? (+3.3v) hope that makes sense.
Click to expand...

I put all my cables back in the same position that I removed them from. Power wise, they're all the same. I was more concerned about the lengths. I'm sure it doesn't matter either way.


----------



## aqualad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swiftes*
> 
> ez guys just started trying to sleeve my XFX XXX 650w PSU, but however I try I cannot seem to get the pins out of the 24 pin or other connectors of that type. Im using a tool ive got from WCUK, and it seems to be going all the way in, I am wiggling but nothing is happening, even pulling on the cable hard. Any ideas?


Do one of these, take some pics very helpful.....BTW this is a customers XFX 850 PRO that I recently did


----------



## KoSoVaR^

Thanks, guys... i will be posting more


----------



## benito

completed my shrinkless sleeving and my *build*


----------



## Swiftes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> My Gawd man ! take a picture, draw a picture of where all the cables connect. Its called a pin-out - without that road map you won't have a clue, apart from checking XFX's site for a pin-out on or OCN or the big wide web.


No need to get shirty, im fairly new to all this sleeving business (only sleeved fans and stuff like that before) there's a pin out in the back manual, if you read my post properly you'll see I did state that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> I put all my cables back in the same position that I removed them from. Power wise, they're all the same. I was more concerned about the lengths. I'm sure it doesn't matter either way.


wicked mate thank you for actually answering my question, rep +


----------



## socketus

yah, i got a buddy, name is Al Zimer - lol, glad you got it in hand, I did re-read and saw my mis-read.


----------



## llamaegg

Out of curiosity, what temperature should we be using on the heat shrink? I have a heat gun with a variable temperature selection and wondering what I should roughly have it set at?


----------



## BuToNz

Start on the lowest and see how you go, most heatshrink doesn't need a lot of heat at all.


----------



## adi518

Fans:


----------



## bdenpaka

Do they make heatshrink wide enough to fit over a 24 pin connector?


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bdenpaka*
> 
> Do they make heatshrink wide enough to fit over a 24 pin connector?


I'm sure they do. Problem would be finding one with a large enough shrink ratio to also shrink around the cables.


----------



## bdenpaka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> I'm sure they do. Problem would be finding one with a large enough shrink ratio to also shrink around the cables.


Yeah most definitely, it would be great if they did. Because then I wouldn't need to sleeve the bottom of my PSU. My only problem is that I'm using cable extensions, and I don't want to resleeve the cables just because the connections at the PSU are not fully sleeved.


----------



## sinnedone

First time sleeving and done on a budget. Only the visible bits are sleeved, but I like the way it came out.























I should be done in a week or so. I'll see if I can get some good finished pictures then.


----------



## Vitaminx

First time sleever here. I'm sleeving the front panel connectors for the Silverstone FT02 case and I had a mishap. Seems somehow or another I pulled a bit too much on the wires and they just came right off the solder joints. Now I guess I'll have to just cut the heatshrink off the wires and resolder them and it should work again, right? Guess my only question then is, does it matter how I solder the two wires back on? I cannot recall what the orientation of these two wires was, that's why I'm a bit concerned. Anyone ever have a problem like this before during sleeving? Just an accidental mishap. Since I'm new to this, I just hope the above fix doesn't screw anything up.


----------



## BuToNz

You can solder them on either way, just means the connector at the other end might need turning around if it's an LED connector (LED won't turn on if around the wrong way). Power/Reset can be either way around.


----------



## CrazyCorky

Thank you guys for all the awesome info on sleeving of cables. I have gotten a lot of ideas and can't wait to get started!


----------



## Vitaminx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> You can solder them on either way, just means the connector at the other end might need turning around if it's an LED connector (LED won't turn on if around the wrong way). Power/Reset can be either way around.


OK, so what I'm understanding is that for switches it doesn't matter how you solder them back on. It should work nonetheless. But if its an LED it will not turn off if you solder the wires in reverse to what they were initially, right?


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vitaminx*
> 
> OK, so what I'm understanding is that for switches it doesn't matter how you solder them back on. It should work nonetheless. But if its an LED it will not turn off if you solder the wires in reverse to what they were initially, right?


Spot on, but as with all motherboard headers you can just reverse the connector and it'll work just fine.


----------



## Vitaminx

It seems I ran into another problem. I just desoldered the USB 3.0 headers from the PCB so I could sleeve them, however the sata sleeve from MDPC is not large enough to fit over the the metal prongs that protrude from the USB header. The prongs are there to hold it in place on the PCB after soldering is done. Does anyone have any suggestions for alternative sleeves and probably heatshrink as well? I know this sata heatshrink most likely is not going to fit over this connector as well. The sleeving I have is 9 mm when pressed down flat.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vitaminx*
> 
> It seems I ran into another problem. I just desoldered the USB 3.0 headers from the PCB so I could sleeve them, however the sata sleeve from MDPC is not large enough to fit over the the metal prongs that protrude from the USB header. The prongs are there to hold it in place on the PCB after soldering is done. Does anyone have any suggestions for alternative sleeves and probably heatshrink as well? I know this sata heatshrink most likely is not going to fit over this connector as well. The sleeving I have is 9 mm when pressed down flat.


Maybe in reading this wrong. Why did you des older the header from the motherboard?


----------



## Vitaminx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> Maybe in reading this wrong. Why did you des older the header from the motherboard?


Forgive me my terminology is wrong. This is what I mean:


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vitaminx*
> 
> Forgive me my terminology is wrong. This is what I mean:


O ok. I assume you're talking about the silver casing of the usb connector. Just for future reference, that's not a header. A header is what you would plug the connector into on the motherboard.

To answer your question, I'm not sure of anything. A more complicated option would be to remove the pins on the other end from the connector, apply sleeving then reinstall connector. I'm not sure if you could find heatshrink to cover the connector and also the sleeving though.


----------



## Vitaminx

Can't really do anything with the other side of the connector because the other side of the connector is what you see on the right in the picture. That's why I decided to go the other route and desolder the USB connectors from the PCB and go from there.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vitaminx*
> 
> Can't really do anything with the other side of the connector because the other side of the connector is what you see on the right in the picture. That's why I decided to go the other route and desolder the USB connectors from the PCB and go from there.


Ok. I assumed that the mic and headphone connector was for usb. Sorry.

Here is an old thread that might help you out.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1289011/usb-3-0-mb-header-tooooo-big


----------



## ClaRazzle

Hey, I am in desperate need of help. I am trying to sleeve my Antec EA 750 and I can't, for the life of me, remove the friggin' molex pins! I tried it with staples like a lot of people here showed how to and was unsuccessful, then I gave up and bought a pin remover tool kit, the tool didn't work either







so I went looking for other solutions online and somebody said they used a capri sun juice straw, and someone else said they used the ink thingy of a used up bic pen ... tried both, didn't work
Can anyone give me any advice on how to do this, please?!?!?!!! I don't want to have to resort to cutting the wires and getting new pins for the whole thing


----------



## banthracis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> O ok. I assume you're talking about the silver casing of the usb connector. Just for future reference, that's not a header. A header is what you would plug the connector into on the motherboard.
> 
> To answer your question, I'm not sure of anything. A more complicated option would be to remove the pins on the other end from the connector, apply sleeving then reinstall connector. I'm not sure if you could find heatshrink to cover the connector and also the sleeving though.


In case anyone runs into this issue in the future, I resolved this issue by desoldering the USB connectors from the PCB. Then I heated and gently bent the pins around the USB connectors (you can see the pins on the right side of below photos) until they were flush with the header. This allowed me to fix SATA sleeving over the connector.



After sleeving and heatshrink just reheat the prongs and gently bend them back.


----------



## Vitaminx

I bent the pins but this Sata sleeving from MDPC is still just barely too tight. It starts to fray after a certain while as well, even with melting the ends. I can get it around the connector mostly but it won't budge at all after that. anyone have any other suggestions for sleeving? This Sata sleeve is 9 mm wide roughly when pressed flat down. Are these connectors just a pain in the ass on the Silverstone cases or something? I'm surprised I haven;t heard of more people having difficulty with these things.


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vitaminx*
> 
> I bent the pins but this Sata sleeving from MDPC is still just barely too tight. It starts to fray after a certain while as well, even with melting the ends. I can get it around the connector mostly but it won't budge at all after that. anyone have any other suggestions for sleeving? This Sata sleeve is 9 mm wide roughly when pressed flat down. Are these connectors just a pain in the ass on the Silverstone cases or something? I'm surprised I haven;t heard of more people having difficulty with these things.


are you trying to snake it on or pull it on...try to snake it on, and are you trying to put it on a SATA connector?


----------



## Vitaminx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> are you trying to snake it on or pull it on...try to snake it on, and are you trying to put it on a SATA connector?


I'm snaking it on. This is not a Sata connector but a USB 3.0 Connector that I desoldered from the front panel PCB. Seems further modification is needed to make it fit over it, because it just gets stuck on the connector and no amount of pulling, snaking, forcing can do anything to make it budge. I have just came across this though:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1279181/sleeving-front-panel-usb-3-0-cables#post_17672393

Ah, yea these ones are a bit of a pain. Ive seen people take 3 options on this.

1. sleeve over the main one and shrink it close to the panel.
2. cut and resolder the individual ones so you can sleeve them.
3. use an exacto knife to cut the connector in half and carefully remove the connectors and then sleeve it and put them back into place with a dot of solder and super glue the connector together.

I've tried 2 and its a no go. I'm curious about #3 though. Anyone care to explain this to me in further detail? Is he saying to cut the housing off around the connector so its easier to sleeve it then glue it back together? Seems risky for a guy new to this stuff like me. Anyone ever used this method?


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vitaminx*
> 
> I'm snaking it on. This is not a Sata connector but a USB 3.0 Connector that I desoldered from the front panel PCB. Seems further modification is needed to make it fit over it, because it just gets stuck on the connector and no amount of pulling, snaking, forcing can do anything to make it budge. I have just came across this though:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1279181/sleeving-front-panel-usb-3-0-cables#post_17672393
> 
> Ah, yea these ones are a bit of a pain. Ive seen people take 3 options on this.
> 
> 1. sleeve over the main one and shrink it close to the panel.
> 2. cut and resolder the individual ones so you can sleeve them.
> 3. use an exacto knife to cut the connector in half and carefully remove the connectors and then sleeve it and put them back into place with a dot of solder and super glue the connector together.
> 
> I've tried 2 and its a no go. I'm curious about #3 though. Anyone care to explain this to me in further detail? Is he saying to cut the housing off around the connector so its easier to sleeve it then glue it back together? Seems risky for a guy new to this stuff like me. Anyone ever used this method?


Why don't you try to put the connectors in one at a time? Put one USB jeader through and then the other


----------



## Vitaminx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> Why don't you try to put the connectors in one at a time? Put one USB jeader through and then the other


But that's what I am doing. The picture I posted above with the sleeving was when I was trying to fit it over one of these connectors. It wouldn't budge.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vitaminx*
> 
> But that's what I am doing. The picture I posted above with the sleeving was when I was trying to fit it over one of these connectors. It wouldn't budge.


MDPC makes a USB sleeve just for this purpose...


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> MDPC makes a USB sleeve just for this purpose...


Just so you know, if you buy tech-flex 1/4" it's the same as that USB sleeve from MDPC, except it's cheaper per quantity.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-BRAIDED-EXPANDABLE-SLEEVING-CLEAN-CUT-25ft-/230408290085?pt=Car_Audio_Video&vxp=mtr&hash=item35a5677f25


----------



## Lutro0

Valentines Day, Lutro0 Customs Style. =P


----------



## adi518




----------



## Vitaminx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> MDPC makes a USB sleeve just for this purpose...


I know they do, I have both the USB and Sata sleeves. The Sata sleeves are actually wider than the USB sleeves, so I've been using those instead for this.


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Valentines Day, Lutro0 Customs Style. =P


Thats great Lutro.

I actually made a red heart for my wife, like I saw in one of your other posts. She loved it.


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Just so you know, if you buy tech-flex 1/4" it's the same as that USB sleeve from MDPC, except it's much cheaper.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-BRAIDED-EXPANDABLE-SLEEVING-CLEAN-CUT-25ft-/230408290085?pt=Car_Audio_Video&vxp=mtr&hash=item35a5677f25


Not even close to the same... I am looking at both right now, not the same at all.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> Thats great Lutro.
> 
> I actually made a red heart for my wife, like I saw in one of your other posts. She loved it.


Awesome, I have been thinking of doing a guide for it. Its a nice sentiment for those that have wives that sleeve. I am glad she likes it bud.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> Not even close to the same... I am looking at both right now, not the same at all.


'

Yea clean cut is a super dense sleeve that comes in black and gray and it does not expand very much at all and has a large diameter. However it is very cheap. I have seen some people mix MDPC and cleancut and it doesnt look too far off - however the sleeve is indeed two different animals coming from hands on experience with both.


----------



## Jaacckk

Wondering if I could get someones advice on the Silverstone Strider modular cables. They are criss crossed in different
connectors. Is there any way I could straighten them out? Sorry for the bad photo. Phone


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaacckk*
> 
> Wondering if I could get someones advice on the Silverstone Strider modular cables. They are criss crossed in different
> connectors. Is there any way I could straighten them out? Sorry for the bad photo. Phone


You can straighten them out by matching voltages, however sometimes this does not work. It is a 1-12 pin out meaning its flipped.

You can and this is what I do: put a short extensions at the end of it for the visible part. this will gurantee you a perfect look. Also this is one of the best ways to get around the oem pinouts.

Another way is using Dwoods sleeving spacers, this will force the cables to go into a right rainbow at the very end. Check out his thrread.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Just sleeved a few cables for the first time, tell me what you think. (sorry for the crappy webcam pics, I need to get new batteries for my camera)
24-pin extention:




Sata/Corsair Modular power supply plug:


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Another way is using Dwoods sleeving spacers, this will force the cables to go into a right rainbow at the very end. Check out his thrread.


Link in my sig for that


----------



## CrazyCorky

When ordering from MDPC... Roughly how long does it take to get your order?


----------



## Vitaminx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> When ordering from MDPC... Roughly how long does it take to get your order?


7-10 Business days on average.

Has anyone used TechFlex Clean Cut sleeving seen here:

http://www.wirecare.com/products.asp?prodline=CCP

I'm thinking about possibly buying some as they have it in 1/2 " sizes and I could probably use that to fit over the USB 3.0 after I desolder them from the PCB. Just wondering if the quality is close to that of MPDC. Do they show wires underneath? From what I've read, the clean cut does not but I guess more opinions on the subject would help me decide to buy or not.


----------



## CrazyCorky

The only problem with tech flex is the lack of colors. I've only seen black and gray.


----------



## Vitaminx

OK thanks for that information. Just to be sure, the one I linked is the high density version right?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vitaminx*
> 
> OK thanks for that information. Just to be sure, the one I linked is the high density version right?


Yes it is. But look on ebay for furryletters, he will sell it for way cheaper and is a great guy. Just search for "clean cut" Also he lists his phone number - give him a call and he will make an even better deal with you on the sleeve, like I said hes a great guy but be prepared to chat a bit hes a retired aviation mech and he loves to chat. =)


----------



## CrazyCorky

Lutro0 I cannot find anything on ebay about furryletters. Would you be able to link some of his sales on ebay?

Disregard I found it!


----------



## Vitaminx

http://stores.ebay.com/FURRYLETTERS/expandable-sleeving-CLEAN-CUT-/_i.html?_fsub=2984962016&_sid=481644496&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322


----------



## CrazyCorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vitaminx*
> 
> http://stores.ebay.com/FURRYLETTERS/expandable-sleeving-CLEAN-CUT-/_i.html?_fsub=2984962016&_sid=481644496&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322


Thank you very much!

Anyone have any idea on this stuff?


----------



## Vitaminx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> Thank you very much!
> 
> Anyone have any idea on this stuff?


As far as the color black goes, I hear its the next best alternative to MDPC sleeving. A plus is the sizes in my opinion. I recently ran into an issue where I cannot for the life of me get the SATA or USB sleeving from MDPC to go over the USB 3.0 connector. Even after desoldering from the PCB, just isn't big enough. That's why I was looking for another alternative, and came across some thread about this stuff.


----------



## Lutro0

I wanted to give another open invitation to the Worldwide PC Sleeving Services Group.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/WorldwidePCSleevingServicesGroup/

I will quote my post explaining the group both for vendors to find clients and clients to find vendors. So please if you know someone that sells sleeving stuffs and services or know of someone needing sleeving stuffs or services please send them there.

The group will only be as good as the people that participate, and its a perfect hub for sleevers to get their jobs done and vendors to work with honest people needing work.

Its a huge vision but you the sleevers and vendors will make it better and better!

Here is my quote explaining the groups rules and vision:

"This group was made for one purpose and one purpose alone. For people seeking sleeving solutions and custom cabling to find vendors and suppliers that will be able to take their orders.

No where on the web is there a centralized place to be able to pick where you want your cables done. And for the buyer this makes it very hard to make the choice.

This will serve as a hub for those to post that they need a paid service and then the according shops and suppliers will contact them to conclude a transaction.

The rules for this group are simple.

1. You must be approved by me and the rest of the sleeving providers before you can actively use this hub as a port of business. This is done so that the buyer is protected from a crappy job and or being ripped off. I will even offer to be a escrow service of sorts and be the middle man for payment if you and the provider so choose.

2. You must get along with all of the other providers, if there is even a little bit of trash talking you will be promptly removed from the group and will not be let in.

3. No swearing. Period. Do this on your own time else where.

4. Do not advertise in the main thread area. Make a text file with you company name preceded by (Custom Sleeving Provider) - USA - Shop name This way they know what you are and where you are located. You may post what ever you like in the txt file from prices to pic links and such and advertise as much as you like in your shops text file. Its at your disposal so use it. This is how your customer will know what you offer.

5. This is all about making the customer first and foremost so keep this in mind and dont nit pick over jobs, there will be plenty to go around if we all send them here to find a supplier. All of us will get plenty of jobs because those suppliers that are allowed and verified to be able to get jobs here will be "accredited" of sorts and it will go miles for your customer trusting you with his or her money."


----------



## longroadtrip

Deleted


----------



## Vitaminx

I got a question about sleeving the AP181 Silverstone fans that come with the FT02 case. Here's a picture of the fan controller end:



Now to sleeve this, would you just cut the wire off then clean the tabs of the connector so that after you sleeve the wires you can just as easily re-solder them back into place? By the way, after they are re-soldered back to the connector with individual heatshrink on each wire covering the solder joint, where exactly would you want to put the heatshrink for the sleeve itself. How close would you want to get to the solder joints of the wires and tabs is basically what I'm wondering about.


----------



## adi518

I'm actually helping a friend with a FT02 and debating this sleeving challenge as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> Not even close to the same... I am looking at both right now, not the same at all.


I have black clean cut and black mdpc small.. it's a bit hard to tell them apart. I used 1/4" cleancut to sleeve my usb 3 wires and it was the perfect sleeve size.


----------



## adi518

double post


----------



## Drzewo

Hi! I'm new on the forum, so...
What do You think about my cable? First time








https://picasaweb.google.com/112121155128791660014/PrzedUzka6pin?authkey=Gv1sRgCIuGtpij3MyuQA


----------



## FalloutBoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vitaminx*
> 
> I got a question about sleeving the AP181 Silverstone fans that come with the FT02 case. Here's a picture of the fan controller end:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1296306/
> 
> Now to sleeve this, would you just cut the wire off then clean the tabs of the connector so that after you sleeve the wires you can just as easily re-solder them back into place? By the way, after they are re-soldered back to the connector with individual heatshrink on each wire covering the solder joint, where exactly would you want to put the heatshrink for the sleeve itself. How close would you want to get to the solder joints of the wires and tabs is basically what I'm wondering about.


I just sleeved 3 of these fans a few weeks ago. I simply unsoldered the wires, put sleeve on the cable, slipped one piece of big heatshrink over the cable but didn't shrink it yet, slipped 3 little pieces of little HS over each wire but didn't shrink them yet, re soldered each wire back on just using the old solder, shrunk the 3 little pieces of HS over each soldered wire and then tidied up by shrinking the bigger HS over the lot.

I haven't had any issues with them at all doing it like this and its really tidy. I can get pics of the finished cable if you like. Hope that made sense.


----------



## Vitaminx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FalloutBoy*
> 
> I just sleeved 3 of these fans a few weeks ago. I simply unsoldered the wires, put sleeve on the cable, slipped one piece of big heatshrink over the cable but didn't shrink it yet, slipped 3 little pieces of little HS over each wire but didn't shrink them yet, re soldered each wire back on just using the old solder, shrunk the 3 little pieces of HS over each soldered wire and then tidied up by shrinking the bigger HS over the lot.
> 
> I haven't had any issues with them at all doing it like this and its really tidy. I can get pics of the finished cable if you like. Hope that made sense.


So you have no wire showing then since you put the larger heatshrink right at the soldered joints then? I was wondering if its ok to do this, but I suppose it is since you did it with no problems. I was just wondering that if you applied heat to that area that it would effect the solder somehow and loosen the wires a bit from their soldered points.

Did you by chance sleeve the front panel connectors up to their soldered points as well and heatshrink over that? I stopped like an inch before because I wasn't sure.

By the way, if you got the pictures to post, I'd like to see them. Gives me some general idea of how it looks when its done.


----------



## CrazyCorky

When it comes to sleeving is it better to use something other than Paracord since there would be some cables you couldn't do some of the cables with it? Like the sata cables and what not.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> When it comes to sleeving is it better to use something other than Paracord since there would be some cables you couldn't do some of the cables with it? Like the sata cables and what not.


Depends on what your scheme is. You can buy sata cables in almost any color so you might not need to sleeve them if you like the way it looks. I cannot think of any other cables that won't work with paracord.


----------



## FalloutBoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vitaminx*
> 
> So you have no wire showing then since you put the larger heatshrink right at the soldered joints then? I was wondering if its ok to do this, but I suppose it is since you did it with no problems. I was just wondering that if you applied heat to that area that it would effect the solder somehow and loosen the wires a bit from their soldered points.
> 
> Did you by chance sleeve the front panel connectors up to their soldered points as well and heatshrink over that? I stopped like an inch before because I wasn't sure.
> 
> By the way, if you got the pictures to post, I'd like to see them. Gives me some general idea of how it looks when its done.


That is correct. I have no wire showing. I used a lighter to shrink the HS and it doesn't nearly put out enough heat to melt the solder so its all ok to do.

In my FT02 I sleeved from the tip of the front panel connectors (bit that plugs into the mobo) to an inch or so from the other end under the plastic lid bit. As no ones gonna see that end of the cable, I didn't sleeve them to the end.

Sorry but I can't actually get pics now. I just installed a H80i and the rad is way to close to the AP181 switches to photograph.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

So I just received a crimp tool I ordered from performance pcs. Ha. What a joke.

The "crimp" can handle about 3 pounds of force before it fails and the cable comes free. I tried adjusting the die, different gauge cable, different diameter insulation with no luck. The crimp just sucks. It doesn't split the wire, it kind of just lays over it, if that makes sense. Here is a pic of what I mean. The exposed wire is too long, but I was just trying different scenarios at that point. Also, the insulation was actually under the second crimp, and i was still abke to pull the wire out no problem!

Sorry for the crappy iphone picture.


----------



## goodtobeking

Wow that sucks. But this is the exact reason I bought myself an MDPC-X crimper, which should be here any day now. I am a big fan of PPCs, but this is crazy. I would contact them and see what they can do. Hopefully its just out of adjustment.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Wow that sucks. But this is the exact reason I bought myself an MDPC-X crimper, which should be here any day now. I am a big fan of PPCs, but this is crazy. I would contact them and see what they can do. Hopefully its just out of adjustment.


I looked at it and adjusted the die with no luck. If you look at the die, there is no "point" to actually roll the crimp over and dig it into the wire. It's completely flat.

O well. I guess I'm out 25.00.

How much was the crimp tool from mdpc-x?


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> I looked at it and adjusted the die with no luck. If you look at the die, there is no "point" to actually roll the crimp over and dig it into the wire. It's completely flat.
> 
> O well. I guess I'm out 25.00.
> 
> How much was the crimp tool from mdpc-x?


Here's the link

47 Euros last November, not including shipping to my USA address. I also bought 2 10m sleeves, but deffo the crimpers are the heavy item. 19 Euros shipping cost.


----------



## Belial

Has anyone heard of custom wires? Like this:



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Custom-Unsleeved-6-pin-ATX-PCI-E-Extension-Cable-/271150157234?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item3f21cf0db2

I gotta say, it looks pretty aweomse. I can't tell what I like more, this or paracord.

I mean just buy some 18AWG wire... and that's all you'd need, literally. Just stick the cables into your psu connectors, tape it up to secure it, shove it behind your motherboard panel, and then route them onto your motherboard. I suppose if you were a little less hardcore you would put a connector on the end of it but yea that sounds pretty awesome.

I mean with a custom connector, that would be pretty crazy...


----------



## protzman

those are pretty cool. too bad thats an extension tho!


----------



## Vitaminx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FalloutBoy*
> 
> That is correct. I have no wire showing. I used a lighter to shrink the HS and it doesn't nearly put out enough heat to melt the solder so its all ok to do.
> 
> In my FT02 I sleeved from the tip of the front panel connectors (bit that plugs into the mobo) to an inch or so from the other end under the plastic lid bit. As no ones gonna see that end of the cable, I didn't sleeve them to the end.
> 
> Sorry but I can't actually get pics now. I just installed a H80i and the rad is way to close to the AP181 switches to photograph.


Gotcha. I do got one question though. While sleeving, the two wires for the reset connector somehow came loose from the solder tabs and the whole wire fell off. I can't remember which way the wires were originally soldered on. Does it matter how I solder them back on for a switch like reset? Also this being my first time and all, I accidentally melted some plastic on some connectors. This shouldn't matter as long as it wasn't an extreme melting of the plastic, right?


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> So I just received a crimp tool I ordered from performance pcs. Ha. What a joke.
> 
> The "crimp" can handle about 3 pounds of force before it fails and the cable comes free. I tried adjusting the die, different gauge cable, different diameter insulation with no luck. The crimp just sucks. It doesn't split the wire, it kind of just lays over it, if that makes sense. Here is a pic of what I mean. The exposed wire is too long, but I was just trying different scenarios at that point. Also, the insulation was actually under the second crimp, and i was still abke to pull the wire out no problem!
> 
> Sorry for the crappy iphone picture.


That's a shame. I mean, you should have read the FAQ.









Anyway, either MDPC-X or Lutro's, that's the tool you need. The tool you bought is far from making a solid crimp. A good crimp must have the "m-bite". Check the FAQ, it has comparison pictures and whatnot.









PS,

I really think PPCS should stop selling that tool. The least they could do is offer the SN-28B.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Has anyone heard of custom wires? Like this:
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Custom-Unsleeved-6-pin-ATX-PCI-E-Extension-Cable-/271150157234?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item3f21cf0db2
> 
> I gotta say, it looks pretty aweomse. I can't tell what I like more, this or paracord.
> 
> I mean just buy some 18AWG wire... and that's all you'd need, literally. Just stick the cables into your psu connectors, tape it up to secure it, shove it behind your motherboard panel, and then route them onto your motherboard. I suppose if you were a little less hardcore you would put a connector on the end of it but yea that sounds pretty awesome.
> 
> I mean with a custom connector, that would be pretty crazy...


Not sure if serious


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> That's a shame. I mean, you should have read the FAQ.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, either MDPC-X or Lutro's, that's the tool you need. The tool you bought is far from making a solid crimp. A good crimp must have the "m-bite". Check the FAQ, it has comparison pictures and whatnot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS,
> 
> I really think PPCS should stop selling that tool. The least they could do is offer the SN-28B.


There are a lot of things I should should/not do, but impatience>logic.

They should definitely stop selling it. There is no real use for it from what I can tell.


----------



## goodtobeking

Well just to note. MDPC-X is open right now if anyone wants to make an order for anything. May be a little more expensive, but you wont have to worry about any quality issues. They have pride in having the best crimpers that actually crimp into the wires like you were describing.



EDIT: I cant comment on personal use, as mine should be here tomorrow or Friday!! But I did get my hands on some of their sleeve and shrink through a user here, who was kind enough to give me a sample, and it is high quality stuff.


----------



## adi518

Another fan I sleeved, this time a Fractal Design R2 140mm that came with my R4. This one actually took me a lot of trial and error until I got it right. The couple first attempts went a bit bad (sleeve fraying) because I had to custom-length the sleeve on-the-fly. That means it's too risky to burn the edges (the wires are in your way) so I ended up cutting it to where it was still good and re-crimping the fan. The original pins weren't crimped too great anyway (ie, not flush with the connector). After that I went on and used mdpc-x 4:1 pre-cut until where it meets the connector. Then, I applied 20mm 3:1 mdpc-x sata shrink onto it.

On fans that have a connector with full rails (those tiny rails that help it slide down the header) you can't grip enough with the sata shrink so you either have to use the super-glue method (look @ Lutro0's vid) or try the method I used. At first, the pre-cut holds the sleeve on the wires so it locks in place, then the sata is laid onto it and therefore can't move backwards from the plastic connector, I'm posting this because I really think it's a good tip and I didn't find another way to do this properly. It doesn't matter if you use a 20mm a whole inch sata shrink, it will always slide back if you don't have enough grip on the connector (like in Lutro0's vid).


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Well just to note. MDPC-X is open right now if anyone wants to make an order for anything. May be a little more expensive, but you wont have to worry about any quality issues. They have pride in having the best crimpers that actually crimp into the wires like you were describing.
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I cant comment on personal use, as mine should be here tomorrow or Friday!! But I did get my hands on some of their sleeve and shrink through a user here, who was kind enough to give me a sample, and it is high quality stuff.


I have to laugh every time I hear someone say their crimp tool is 'bestest of the bestest' because it dives into the insulation of the wire in the shape of an 'm'. All I can see that you are doing is tearing the insulation apart, nothing more. Saying it is stronger is pure BS without some data to back it up. The real strength of the crimp is actually on the shorter wings where there is no insulation at all, direct to the copper wire.

In fact, one of the best hand crimp tools made (by Molex, P/N 638190900) uses the fold over method on the insulation crimps, so how can someone say this is a bad thing when the designer of the connectors themselves has designed a high quality crimp tool this way.

Of course I have no data to prove this at all, but I will throw a challenge out there to anyone that might want to help. I have the above mentioned Molex crimp tool, the cheap azz PPC's Crimp tool, and unlimited access to a $25,000 pull tester. If someone will ship me their MDPC or Lutro crimper (or both, as I was unaware Lutro had a crimper) for a few days I can test the crimp strength of the resulting crimps from each of the tools above. If you have another tool to add to the mix, we can add that too.

Has anyone done or seen this testing before across the available crimp tools? I have never seen it if it has already been done, and would love to see it.


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> All I can see that you are doing is tearing the insulation apart, nothing more. Saying it is stronger is pure BS without some data to back it up. The real strength of the crimp is actually on the shorter wings where there is no insulation at all, direct to the copper wire.




Of course, all of what you said is completely true and I'd love to see a 'proper' comparison.


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, all of what you said is completely true and I'd love to see a 'proper' comparison.


Badass, Lol. Seriously it's all hooplah without some data to prove it one way or the other. Like I said I just find it humorous when someone makes a claim about a product being the 'best' with nothing to back it up.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, all of what you said is completely true and I'd love to see a 'proper' comparison.


LOL that made my day.

But I see where you are coming from 350 Malibu. And I agree that a direct comparison would be incredibly valuable to have here. I was just basing my opinion on what I have read, and not just the MDPC website lol. Lots of users here rave about it, and it cant be any worst off than DirtyTrickster with his crimper(which I almost bought since I am a supporter of PPC). I also didnt know Lutro had a set of crimpers either

I actually just got my package from Nils in today and I am going to be putting it to use here in about an hour. Cool thing about Nils over at MDPC, is that he tests each crimper and adjusts them before he ships it out, and ships you the used crimps to prove it.

I may take you up on loaning you my crimper if you do a good review, comparison, and write up about it. Like I said, it would be a great thing to have here. Mainly to warn people about bad crimpers, but would be nice to know what is the best as well. But that is only after I am done with it, at least this build, which might be a while.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> I have to laugh every time I hear someone say their crimp tool is 'bestest of the bestest' because it dives into the insulation of the wire in the shape of an 'm'. All I can see that you are doing is tearing the insulation apart, nothing more. Saying it is stronger is pure BS without some data to back it up. The real strength of the crimp is actually on the shorter wings where there is no insulation at all, direct to the copper wire.
> 
> In fact, one of the best hand crimp tools made (by Molex, P/N 638190900) uses the fold over method on the insulation crimps, so how can someone say this is a bad thing when the designer of the connectors themselves has designed a high quality crimp tool this way.
> 
> Of course I have no data to prove this at all, but I will throw a challenge out there to anyone that might want to help. I have the above mentioned Molex crimp tool, the cheap azz PPC's Crimp tool, and unlimited access to a $25,000 pull tester. If someone will ship me their MDPC or Lutro crimper (or both, as I was unaware Lutro had a crimper) for a few days I can test the crimp strength of the resulting crimps from each of the tools above. If you have another tool to add to the mix, we can add that too.
> 
> Has anyone done or seen this testing before across the available crimp tools? I have never seen it if it has already been done, and would love to see it.


You might be hard pressed to find people willing to ship out their tools. I have a tyco Val u lok crimp tool here at work that I could crimp some samples with and send to you. I'd just need part numbers of wire and contacts as well as total length of wire (end if contact to end of wire) as well as length of wire w/o insulation crimped. Also a quantity.


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> LOL that made my day.
> 
> But I see where you are coming from 350 Malibu. And I agree that a direct comparison would be incredibly valuable to have here. I was just basing my opinion on what I have read, and not just the MDPC website lol. Lots of users here rave about it, and it cant be any worst off than DirtyTrickster with his crimper(which I almost bought since I am a supporter of PPC). I also didnt know Lutro had a set of crimpers either
> 
> I actually just got my package from Nils in today and I am going to be putting it to use here in about an hour. Cool thing about Nils over at MDPC, is that he tests each crimper and adjusts them before he ships it out, and ships you the used crimps to prove it.
> 
> I may take you up on loaning you my crimper if you do a good review, comparison, and write up about it. Like I said, it would be a great thing to have here. Mainly to warn people about bad crimpers, but would be nice to know what is the best as well. But that is only after I am done with it, at least this build, which might be a while.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> You might be hard pressed to find people willing to ship out their tools. I have a tyco Val u lok crimp tool here at work that I could crimp some samples with and send to you. I'd just need part numbers of wire and contacts as well as total length of wire (end if contact to end of wire) as well as length of wire w/o insulation crimped. Also a quantity.


I think it would make for an excellent and informative experiment. Having people send me their tools is probably a little extreme, but it adds operator to operator variation to the testing. Ideally your only variation should be the tools, eliminating different types of crimp connectors, wire types/vendors, as well as the operator. For this it would be feasible to have some operator variation, since no one operator will crimp the same even using the same tool there will always be operator variation (noise).

Let me see if I can put together a test plan this week. If I can get some takers with different tool types, perhaps I could pre-cut/strip the sample wires and supply the standard molex brand crimp connectors for those willing to do some crimping. I could mail the supplies, you do the crimping, then send them back for testing.


----------



## Jwright0291

Quick question...is this..
http://lutro0-customs.theshoppad.com/#/product/4mm-tight-braid-a-v-pet-blue-black-1ft
The same size as this..
http://lutro0-customs.theshoppad.com/#/product/550-paracord-royal-blue-new-stock-25-feet
.???
I'm hoping so because I want to incorporate 1 or 2 strands into my black and blue 24 pin
Thanks guys!


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jwright0291*
> 
> Quick question...is this..
> http://lutro0-customs.theshoppad.com/#/product/4mm-tight-braid-a-v-pet-blue-black-1ft
> The same size as this..
> http://lutro0-customs.theshoppad.com/#/product/550-paracord-royal-blue-new-stock-25-feet
> .???
> I'm hoping so because I want to incorporate 1 or 2 strands into my black and blue 24 pin
> Thanks guys!


The PET is plastic type sleeving. Paracord is not the same. The PET would have a shine to it.


----------



## Jwright0291

Do you think it would look alright to blend the blue black together or should I do something else with the PET?


----------



## 350 Malibu

If it were me I would go one or the other, plastic type or paracord, but not mix the two. Might look ok from a distance, but would be easily distinguishable from a pretty close distance.

Seems like I have seen a black/blue combo 550 paracord before, but I can't recall where. looks like this black/red combo, only with blue (can't find it now)...


----------



## Jwright0291

I'll probably just use the PET i ordered for a different project then..







lolz


----------



## audioholic

This is something I did a while back(blue/black paracord)


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jwright0291*
> 
> I'll probably just use the PET i ordered for a different project then..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lolz


Don't be discouraged, I didn't mean to that to ya, lol

Maybe Lutro would be nice enough to get you a picture of the two side by side, or maybe even send you a couple small 4-6" samples to look at. Doesn't hurt to ask. Being innovative can make some pretty cool stuff.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> This is something I did a while back(blue/black paracord)


^ Thats the stuff I was thinking of...


----------



## Jwright0291

Lol nah I was kidding. I'll find some use. I'll email him.


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> Don't be discouraged, I didn't mean to that to ya, lol
> 
> Maybe Lutro would be nice enough to get you a picture of the two side by side, or maybe even send you a couple small 4-6" samples to look at. Doesn't hurt to ask. Being innovative can make some pretty cool stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^ Thats the stuff I was thinking of...


I found that paracord through google searches. I dont remember the seller I got it fron







sorry.


----------



## FalloutBoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vitaminx*
> 
> Gotcha. I do got one question though. While sleeving, the two wires for the reset connector somehow came loose from the solder tabs and the whole wire fell off. I can't remember which way the wires were originally soldered on. Does it matter how I solder them back on for a switch like reset? Also this being my first time and all, I accidentally melted some plastic on some connectors. This shouldn't matter as long as it wasn't an extreme melting of the plastic, right?


Shouldn't matter which way they go back on, if the reset button doesn't work afterwards, you'll just have to switch the header round on the mobo like normal.

If the plastic lost its shape its still ok so long as the pins still make contact with the mobo pins ok.


----------



## CrazyCorky

For paracord check out paracordworld.com


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Does anyone have any extra mdpc-x sleeving laying around that they want to sell. I need like 3m of red white and black small sleeve. I don't want to have to buy anothet 10m of each since that is way too much sleeve.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Double post.


----------



## Noskcaj

Moddiy's gold and black sleeves, used on my very first attempt at sleeving. sorry for using a potato instead of a camera. as you can (hopefully) see, the gold is actually 1/2 Gold, 1/2 translucent.

it's more shiny IRL


----------



## jd2195

How do you get your sleeving to ribbon well or just be straight? My wires are all over the place.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> I have to laugh every time I hear someone say their crimp tool is 'bestest of the bestest' because it dives into the insulation of the wire in the shape of an 'm'. All I can see that you are doing is tearing the insulation apart, nothing more. Saying it is stronger is pure BS without some data to back it up. The real strength of the crimp is actually on the shorter wings where there is no insulation at all, direct to the copper wire.
> 
> In fact, one of the best hand crimp tools made (by Molex, P/N 638190900) uses the fold over method on the insulation crimps, so how can someone say this is a bad thing when the designer of the connectors themselves has designed a high quality crimp tool this way.
> 
> Of course I have no data to prove this at all, but I will throw a challenge out there to anyone that might want to help. I have the above mentioned Molex crimp tool, the cheap azz PPC's Crimp tool, and unlimited access to a $25,000 pull tester. If someone will ship me their MDPC or Lutro crimper (or both, as I was unaware Lutro had a crimper) for a few days I can test the crimp strength of the resulting crimps from each of the tools above. If you have another tool to add to the mix, we can add that too.
> 
> Has anyone done or seen this testing before across the available crimp tools? I have never seen it if it has already been done, and would love to see it.


How does, the original tool, crimp the shorter wings? I don't believe it overlaps them. If it does, then yeh, it's pretty crap IMHO. It's for a fact that overlapping the wings isn't as strong as biting into it. Btw, the price says nothing. The price point is 200$ because factories are it's main consumers and a 200$ expense is as little as 20$ for the average consumer.What I mean is, original doesn't always = best result. It's also the same with how you can get non-original molex pins which can be better than the original. Look at the guy above.. he used the tool from PPC, pulled on the wire and it came out. I'm gonna try pulling the wire on mine. It's gonna be super hard. There's no need to test this on a pulling machine.. if you can't take it out by the force of your hands, then it's good enough. The molex tool as I suspect, might 'm' crimp the shorter wings and overlap the insulation wings. That yields a semi-strong connection with the pin, so I do not rule out the fact oem crimpers are designed for better results. The cost seems irrelevant. Lucky us the good oem tools don't cost the moon and give great results.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> Moddiy's gold and black sleeves, used on my very first attempt at sleeving. sorry for using a potato instead of a camera. as you can (hopefully) see, the gold is actually 1/2 Gold, 1/2 translucent.
> 
> it's more shiny IRL


You should try making some of these cables without any sleeve in the middle. It often looks a lot better and potentially means a lot less work too. You just have to use a black wire.


----------



## Big Elf

Lutro0 posted the Molex preferred crimp chart at #14 *here*. Both the overlapping and bite crimp are classed as acceptable.

If the MDPC-X tool is properly calibrated then it shouldn't cut into the insulation. Although the PPC tool produces an overlap crimp on the ATX pins it's not very robust and as mentioned can be easily pulled off. It does however do acceptable and robust crimps on the 4 pin molex type auxiliary connector pins on both single and dual wires.

The SN-28B tool produces crimps that damage/crush the insulation even on the lowest pressure setting. However I modified my tool by judicious filing so that it now produces crimps to a similar level as the MDPC-X tool. It also now does very good 'bite' crimps on the 4 pin molex type auxiliary connector pins.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoSoVaR^*
> 
> Some Black & Orange by me


VERY nice!


----------



## adi518

Yeh, one thing that's good on the SN-B28, is the fact it has a third slot just for power molex crimping, which I understand is not recommended to be done with either mdpc-x/lutro's tool.


----------



## nezff

Where is a good place to purchase quality extensions. I might just sleeve some of those for a build


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> I have to laugh every time I hear someone say their crimp tool is 'bestest of the bestest' because it dives into the insulation of the wire in the shape of an 'm'. All I can see that you are doing is tearing the insulation apart, nothing more. Saying it is stronger is pure BS without some data to back it up. The real strength of the crimp is actually on the shorter wings where there is no insulation at all, direct to the copper wire.
> 
> In fact, one of the best hand crimp tools made (by Molex, P/N 638190900) uses the fold over method on the insulation crimps, so how can someone say this is a bad thing when the designer of the connectors themselves has designed a high quality crimp tool this way.
> 
> Of course I have no data to prove this at all, but I will throw a challenge out there to anyone that might want to help. I have the above mentioned Molex crimp tool, the cheap azz PPC's Crimp tool, and unlimited access to a $25,000 pull tester. If someone will ship me their MDPC or Lutro crimper (or both, as I was unaware Lutro had a crimper) for a few days I can test the crimp strength of the resulting crimps from each of the tools above. If you have another tool to add to the mix, we can add that too.
> 
> Has anyone done or seen this testing before across the available crimp tools? I have never seen it if it has already been done, and would love to see it.


Well, I've used 4 different crimp tools (1 Molex from my work, 1 "Made in China" one from a swap meet, 1 from FTWPC that I even paid the extra $10 to have it calibrated, and of course my MDPC crimper that I just got), and I must say, that in order of quality it goes ...

MDPC > FTWPC > Molex > "Made in China"

I thought my FTWPC tool was pretty good, but it did screw up about every 3rd or 4th crimp. So far, I've done about 30 crimps with my MDPC tool and so far, every one is a "perfect M".

Doing some "tug tests" with crimps made by MDPC and FTWPC vs the Molex and "Made in China" tool, I must say, the "M crimp" holds MUCH better than the fold over crimps. Also, given that the Molex tool that I borrowed from work was nearly 4-5 TIMES as expensive as the tool from MDPC, I would NOT recommend it.


----------



## adi518

See? My point proven.









I can also get a "Pressmaster" tool which afaik, is the real maker for the Molex tool. I could compare it just for the fun of it.


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> How does, the original tool, crimp the shorter wings? I don't believe it overlaps them. If it does, then yeh, it's pretty crap. It's for a fact that overlapping the wings isn't as strong as 'm' biting into it. The price says nothing. The price point is 200$ because factories are it's main consumers and a 200$ expense is as little as 20$ for the average consumer.What I mean is, original doesn't always = best result. It's also the same with how you can get non-original molex pins which can be better than the original. Look at the guy above.. he used the tool from PPC, pulled on the wire and it came out. I'm gonna try pulling the wire on mine. It's gonna be super hard. There's no need to test this on a pulling machine.. if you can't take it out by the force of your hands, then it's good enough. The molex tool as I suspect, might 'm' crimp the shorter wings and overlap the insulation wings. That yields a semi-strong connection with the pin, so I do not rule out the fact oem crimpers are designed for better results. The cost seems irrelevant. Lucky us the good oem tools don't cost the moon and give great results.
> You should try making some of these cables without any sleeve in the middle. It often looks a lot better and potentially means a lot less work too. You just have to use a black wire.


I never said anything about the price of the tool, that is irrelevant. I am talking about the design of the tool, being made by the original designer of the molex connector rolls the wings over *at the insulation* and does not make an 'm' jamming through or ripping the insulation apart. At the shorter wings where there is NO-INSULATION and the crimp counts it makes an 'm' shape, yes. So how can it be 'bad' to roll at the insulation when the primary crimp (where it's important) is strong?
Quote:


> It's for a fact that overlapping the wings isn't as strong as 'm' biting into it.


Jamming a small amount of wing into your insulation makes your crimp stronger? Really, how so?








Quote:


> I'm gonna try pulling the wire on mine. It's gonna be super hard. There's no need to test this on a pulling machine.. if you can't take it out by the force of your hands, then it's good enough.


Great, then my rolled crimps are "good enough" because I can't pull them out with my hands either, right?

I never said either way was right or wrong, but how can you claim one way is 'bestest' over the other when you have nothing to prove it? Well, other than your manly pull it by hand test...


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> Jamming a small amount of wing into your insulation makes your crimp stronger? Really, how so?


Take one hand, grasp a bowling ball keeping your fingers only on the outside of the ball. Then in your other hand, put your fingers IN the holes of the bowling ball. How shake both and see which one drops first.

The "fold over" method relies 100% on friction of the metal to wire sheath in only one direction of holding. The "M" crimp not only relies on friction, but because it digs in to the wire insulation, it also increases the surface area of that friction zone as well as creates 2 perpendicular points at which the wire is held. Thus, it is a stronger bond and less likely to pull out.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Take one hand, grasp a bowling ball keeping your fingers only on the outside of the ball. Then in your other hand, put your fingers IN the holes of the bowling ball. How shake both and see which one drops first.
> 
> The "fold over" method relies 100% on friction of the metal to wire sheath in only one direction of holding. The "M" crimp not only relies on friction, but because it digs in to the wire insulation, it also increases the surface area of that friction zone as well as creates 2 perpendicular points at which the wire is held. Thus, it is a stronger bond and less likely to pull out.


Exactly what I'm trying to tell 350 Malibu. Heck, it's common sense that the bite is CLEARLY better than the overlap. Period.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> I never said either way was right or wrong, but how can you claim one way is 'bestest' over the other when you have nothing to prove it? Well, other than your manly pull it by hand test...


As far as I see, nothing does a better crimp than the oem tools. Not even the original Molex one.


----------



## Big Elf

It doesn't really matter whether it's a bite or overlap crimp as long as the crimp is robust and won't pull off easily.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> I have to laugh every time I hear someone say their crimp tool is 'bestest of the bestest' because it dives into the insulation of the wire in the shape of an 'm'. All I can see that you are doing is tearing the insulation apart, nothing more. Saying it is stronger is pure BS without some data to back it up. The real strength of the crimp is actually on the shorter wings where there is no insulation at all, direct to the copper wire.
> 
> In fact, one of the best hand crimp tools made (by Molex, P/N 638190900) uses the fold over method on the insulation crimps, so how can someone say this is a bad thing when the designer of the connectors themselves has designed a high quality crimp tool this way.
> 
> Of course I have no data to prove this at all, but I will throw a challenge out there to anyone that might want to help. I have the above mentioned Molex crimp tool, the cheap azz PPC's Crimp tool, and unlimited access to a $25,000 pull tester. If someone will ship me their MDPC or Lutro crimper (or both, as I was unaware Lutro had a crimper) for a few days I can test the crimp strength of the resulting crimps from each of the tools above. If you have another tool to add to the mix, we can add that too.
> 
> Has anyone done or seen this testing before across the available crimp tools? I have never seen it if it has already been done, and would love to see it.


It has been done =) Take a look at this link: http://lutro0-customs.com/products/custom-sleeved-12-24pin-extension

The crimpers in that pic are only 1/4th of the total that I have used and tested. Granted I do not have an expensive puller. But I have done more sleeving then I care to admit. The only three crimpers that have not made weak crimps is MDPCs, MOLEXs, and the one I sell.

You do however have a point about the "M" Comment. The bite into the insulation is a stress relief. However for our purposes it does give the crimp a little bit more beef and it makes the wire, connector and sleeve easier to go into the connecor. As opposed to just adding two more layers like the "hans Long crimper" which is the one perfpc and frozen and ftw sold.

Through my research I have found that the major portion on the strength of the a crimp is in the second smaller crimp that holds onto the wire and creates the actual contact with the terminal for electricity to flow. This is one of the reasons I like to strip my wires to 3mm instead of the conventional two, so it has just a little more to hold onto. The crimpter sold in the LC Store, MDPCs, and the Molex crimper has their die set up just right so that the outter long wings will hug the outter insulation and then really crimp down on the inner crimper to make maximum contact with the wire.

Now I am not about to go around and say whats the best and what not, but from my own testing and just plain use over and over the crimper that MDPC found and altered a bit and creates a "bite" and Hard second crimp have been the way to go. (same as the one I sell)

If you would like I can send you a crimper for free so you can get a good look at it and do some testing. I intended on doing a crimper shootout one day, but with some of the drama lately and the store opening up I have been busy. But I will do one eventually when I do the "how to crimp" Video. But you are more then welcome to borrow my Whole collection of crimpers if you wanted to provide me some actual hard data, as all I was going to do is tie a crimp up and start adding small ammount of weight untill it broke and then recording it. ( Kinda a use what you have type thing lol)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jwright0291*
> 
> Quick question...is this..
> http://lutro0-customs.theshoppad.com/#/product/4mm-tight-braid-a-v-pet-blue-black-1ft
> The same size as this..
> http://lutro0-customs.theshoppad.com/#/product/550-paracord-royal-blue-new-stock-25-feet
> .???
> I'm hoping so because I want to incorporate 1 or 2 strands into my black and blue 24 pin
> Thanks guys!


The specialized pet sleeve is normally used for audio cables, however if you matched the colors well I think it would look good. But the diameter difference between the two is minimal.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Bottom line: What ever tool, at what ever price, works for you and you are happy with it (and the method that it crimps), then that is the best tool for you.

Me, I prefer the "M" crimp over the "rolled over" crimp, and thus the $70 MDPC or even the $45 FTWPC crimper is better, to me, than a $250 Molex crimper.

But then again, I like Ford over Chevy, Blue over Red, and Lobster over Steak.


----------



## 350 Malibu

I think you guys are missing my point...

I am not referring to the crimp around the bare copper conductor, I am referring to the crimp around the insulation.

Please refer back to this previously posted image. Both appear to have a good bite at the conductor crimp around the bare wire, however one claims to have a better crimp because it is "Biting into the insulation"...



Now please tell me, if both crimps are equal at the conductor, how does the crimp at the *insulation*, being rolled/folded or 'm' shape make a difference in the crimp strength at the conductor. I would agree 100% that the crimp around the copper conductor makes all the world of difference, but the longer wings that tear into your insulation add probably nothing to the overall pull strength of the copper conductor crimp.


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> See? My point proven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can also get a "Pressmaster" tool which afaik, is the real maker for the Molex tool. I could compare it just for the fun of it.


You have proven, nothing...


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> I think you guys are missing my point...
> 
> I am not referring to the crimp around the bare copper conductor, I am referring to the crimp around the insulation.
> 
> Now please tell me, if both crimps are equal at the conductor, how does the crimp at the *insulation*, being rolled/folded or 'm' shape make a difference in the crimp strength at the conductor. I would agree 100% that the crimp around the copper conductor makes all the world of difference, but the longer wings that tear into your insulation add probably nothing to the overall pull strength of the copper conductor crimp.


It doesn't ... at the point of contact where the actual wire meets the connector ... but it IS stronger with the "M" at the point of where the crimp at the insulation is. Since most of the stress will be first happen at the insulation crimp (ie pulling out of the wire), having a stronger crimp there is better, because it will cause less stress (ie if the 100% friction crimp of the "roller over" crimp fails) on the wire to connector crimp.

See: Force of Friction Parallel vs Perpendicular


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> It doesn't ... at the point of contact where the actual wire meets the connector ... but it IS stronger with the "M" at the point of where the crimp at the insulation is. Since most of the stress will be first happen at the insulation crimp (ie pulling out of the wire), having a stronger crimp there is better, because it will cause less stress (ie if the 100% friction crimp of the "roller over" crimp fails) on the wire to connector crimp.


Thank you for at least showing some logic, without throwing out unproven opinions.

I'd still love to run some tests to see if there is any difference, and if so how much. I don't think a simple tug with the hand is proving a thing, other then the conductor crimp is strong, but we will see.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> Thank you for at least showing some logic, without throwing out unproven opinions.
> 
> I'd still love to run some tests to see if there is any difference, and if so how much. I don't think a simple tug with the hand is proving a thing, other then the conductor crimp is strong, but we will see.


To be honest, I don't think that it really matters, not for simple cable sleeving inside a computer, if it's a "rolled over" or a "M" crimp. Odds are, people are going to sleeve their cables, put them in place, and leave them, and go "Ohhh ahhh" at them through a plexi-glass windows 99.99999% of the time. Maybe a couple times a year they will open the case and mess with another component lightly touch the wires, or maybe unplug the sleeved cable (hopefully using the plastic connector and not just yank the wires), but generally, they aren't going to be stressed at all.

Now for a MIL-SPEC rating or something crazy, then maybe one or the other is better and it would matter, but as I said before, what ever works for you and you are happy with, that is the "correct" way to do it.


----------



## goodtobeking

Knucklehead has a great point. I dont know of any user here that would jerk or yank on a wire in their system if they went through all the work of sleeving the system. But its better to be safe than sorry IMO. But I do agree that all the crimpers will be suffice for what we need them for, except for maybe the PPC crimper that started all this LOL, which may just be a bad one.

Nice write up Lutro about the crimping, and your knowledge on said subject is always welcome. But to have an official test, I dont think you should run it just because you have a stake it the outcome. Although I do trust what you do, it would be hard to argue against you being bias . Would be great to have Malibu do an extensive test with a highly accurate(and expensive) machine. Would make a great article to add to the "professionalism" of the site


----------



## mrrockwell

Here are few custom cables I done for my projec Redefine


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Knucklehead has a great point. I dont know of any user here that would jerk or yank on a wire in their system if they went through all the work of sleeving the system. But its better to be safe than sorry IMO. But I do agree that all the crimpers will be suffice for what we need them for, except for maybe the PPC crimper that started all this LOL, which may just be a bad one.
> 
> Nice write up Lutro about the crimping, and your knowledge on said subject is always welcome. But to have an official test, I dont think you should run it just because you have a stake it the outcome. Although I do trust what you do, it would be hard to argue against you being bias . Would be great to have Malibu do an extensive test with a highly accurate(and expensive) machine. Would make a great article to add to the "professionalism" of the site


Oh I agree fully, I offered to send him him the stash of crimpers for him to use on his machine. The thing with crimping is that you would have to take the average out of 3 to be accurate to remove the human error, and it depends on the persons own crimping methods, wire used.... and the list goes on sadly lol

If noone does something like this soon I will have to go ahead and do the test as most people know if I see something not right no matter if its a sponsored part or one of my own I am going to call it what it is. Sadly only those that have known me for a while know that.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> You have proven, nothing...


No. I meant to repeat the fact, oem crimpers (mdpc/lutro) are better than the original and Knucklehead helped confirming it. I admit a pulling test can be curious but TBH, the debate is becoming tedious now. An 'm' bite on both wings is far superior.


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> To be honest, I don't think that it really matters, not for simple cable sleeving inside a computer, if it's a "rolled over" or a "M" crimp. Odds are, people are going to sleeve their cables, put them in place, and leave them, and go "Ohhh ahhh" at them through a plexi-glass windows 99.99999% of the time. Maybe a couple times a year they will open the case and mess with another component lightly touch the wires, or maybe unplug the sleeved cable (hopefully using the plastic connector and not just yank the wires), but generally, they aren't going to be stressed at all.
> 
> Now for a MIL-SPEC rating or something crazy, then maybe one or the other is better and it would matter, but as I said before, what ever works for you and you are happy with, that is the "correct" way to do it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Knucklehead has a great point. I dont know of any user here that would jerk or yank on a wire in their system if they went through all the work of sleeving the system. But its better to be safe than sorry IMO. But I do agree that all the crimpers will be suffice for what we need them for, except for maybe the PPC crimper that started all this LOL, which may just be a bad one.
> 
> Nice write up Lutro about the crimping, and your knowledge on said subject is always welcome. But to have an official test, I dont think you should run it just because you have a stake it the outcome. Although I do trust what you do, it would be hard to argue against you being bias . Would be great to have Malibu do an extensive test with a highly accurate(and expensive) machine. Would make a great article to add to the "professionalism" of the site


Guys, I agree that whatever works for you, works for you. rolled, m, or even tied in a bow as long as it holds. My issue is with the guys selling the crimpers, and no offense to Lutro since you are selling a tool now, is the statement that a rolled fin is bad on the insulation, and the 'm' is the best, so you should buy my more expensive crimper (as shown in the image that was posted previously from we all know where). The reason I am offering to test is because I personally feel the fins around the insulation have minimal effect on the overall strength of the crimp, and I am very curious as to what the real data is behind each crimper. Who knows we may find the 'm' produces an overall tougher crimp. Or we may find that cheaper $20 tool (if it is used right) creates a crimp with the same overall strength as the more touted tools. I am hoping to find out. In addition the data would be great just for people to have a real data difference comparison.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Here are few custom cables I done for my projec Redefine
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very Nice!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Oh I agree fully, I offered to send him him the stash of crimpers for him to use on his machine. The thing with crimping is that you would have to take the average out of 3 to be accurate to remove the human error, and it depends on the persons own crimping methods, wire used.... and the list goes on sadly lol
> 
> If noone does something like this soon I will have to go ahead and do the test as most people know if I see something not right no matter if its a sponsored part or one of my own I am going to call it what it is. Sadly only those that have known me for a while know that.


Lutro, sorry I did not see your previous post until now. I was probably busy typing away the same time you were. If you were sincere about loaning me the stash of tools, I would be honored to perform the testing and do a write up. If you are curoius the testing would be performed on an Instron 3340 Series, rather then hanging weights from the wires.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> No. I meant to repeat the fact, oem crimpers (mdpc/lutro) are better than the original and Knucklehead helped confirming it. I admit a pulling test can be curious but TBH, the debate is becoming tedious now. An 'm' bite on both wings is far superior.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Well, as a non-tool seller, I found that the middle price point crimpers (at least for me) were better than the cheapest and most expensive.

In order of preference (and cost), I prefer:

MDPC ($70) > FTWPC ($35) > Molex ($250) > "Made in China" ($20)


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Ok, here is an odd question for all the sleevers out there.

After you do a heatshrinkless sleeving job, how far back do your terminals sit from the edge of the connector (6, 8, 24-pin, etc)?

Is 0.5mm or 1.0mm (approximately) "normal"?

I ask this because all the power cables that I have that are store bought have the terminals coming right up to the edge of the connector, and after sleeving, mine sit back about 0.5-1.0mm from the edge. They work (ie the first cable I made using the heatshrinkless method was a SATA power connector and the drive is running just fine), but I just wonder if I'm doing something wrong with doing the heatshrinkless process (this is my first attempt at it).

For example, here is a picture of an after market sleeve job that uses heatshrink:



Notice the terminals sit back just a little, maybe .5mm.



Same with this one, except this is a heatshrinkless job.

But on the cables that came with my Seasonic Platinum 1000 unit, the terminals come pretty much all the way to the edge of the connector.

I hope this makes sense.


----------



## Big Elf

I think it's down to the slight variance in the way the different connectors and/or pins are manufactured.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Is 0.5mm or 1.0mm (approximately) "normal"?
> ....
> But on the cables that came with my Seasonic Platinum 1000 unit, the terminals come pretty much all the way to the edge of the connector.


Indeed with original Molex pins and connectors there is about 1mm space at the end. But Seasonic don't use original Molex pins nor original Molex connectors. None of the PSU makers do.

If you look at the MiniFit Jr spec then you'll see that the female part of the pin that makes the connection has length 2.6mm, while the male part which slots into that has length 6.3mm. So there scope for over 3mm difference between the position of the male and female parts. So it's fine if the female pins in the Seasonic are a bit further forward.


----------



## Vitaminx

What do you guys think of this? It's my first time sleeving. I did end up melting some of the plastic on those connectors which is quite annoying. Do you think I should have gone all the way up with the sleeving and heatshrink to where the wires are soldered to the solder tabs and just put some MDPC heatshrink over the smaller heatshrink on the wires? I wonder if that might actually end up holding them in place better. Since I did have a mishap with one of the wires coming undone from the solder tab.


----------



## Noskcaj

very nice, i tried that and broke my on button.


----------



## audioholic

Did this a long time ago when FTWPC was still open.


----------



## banA9Ez06i

I found 3mm polyster paracord, is it better than 3.2 mm nylon 550 paracord?
From seller words: "This cord is a top quality alternative to our 550 GSA Compliant Cord. It is made in the same way except it is made from *Polyester* rather than *Nylon*.
What about threading cables with pins through it, I didn't encounter any difficulties? Someone tried 3mm polyster paracord?


----------



## Fieel




----------



## adi518

Finally, gave heat-shrink sleeving the official try and at 2nd attempt I FINALLY understood how things work and it went perfect (I still can't believe it lol):


----------



## MotO

I'm looking to make my own cables. Can I use one of these crimpers?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10509


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotO*
> 
> I'm looking to make my own cables. Can I use one of these crimpers?
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10509


get this
http://lutro0-customs.com/products/custom-sleeved-12-24pin-extension
well worth the money and supporting a great man!


----------



## Jwright0291

How long does it usually take to get product from lutro0? Does he send a tracking email?


----------



## TeamBlue

He ships usps priority unless its tiny stuff... I got my crimper and some pins 4 days after ordering.


----------



## TeamBlue

Delete me i'm a double!.


----------



## Jwright0291

Oh, I ordered last wednesday and havent heard anything since, so I was just curious. Thanks


----------



## MotO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> get this
> http://lutro0-customs.com/products/custom-sleeved-12-24pin-extension
> well worth the money and supporting a great man!


I'm not paying half the cost of my PSU for a crimper. Sorry.


----------



## dmanstasiu

apology accepted


----------



## Killa Cam

im going to order some mdpc sleeving. has anyone ordered the christmas or stimulus package, and is it enough for a fully modular 1000w power supply? i don't want to order more than i need. and how is the shipping? i can never seem to catch the store open.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> im going to order some mdpc sleeving. has anyone ordered the christmas or stimulus package, and is it enough for a fully modular 1000w power supply? i don't want to order more than i need. and how is the shipping? i can never seem to catch the store open.


Shipping: awesome, 2 days max (for me).

You must catch the shop at the right time (it's shown in the website).

Check the previous page for my pack that arrived last week


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> im going to order some mdpc sleeving. has anyone ordered the christmas or stimulus package, and is it enough for a fully modular 1000w power supply? i don't want to order more than i need. and how is the shipping? i can never seem to catch the store open.
> 
> 
> 
> Shipping: awesome, 2 days max (for me).
> 
> You must catch the shop at the right time (it's shown in the website).
> 
> Check the previous page for my pack that arrived last week
Click to expand...

Alaska, versus switzerland. 2 days shipping isn't precise for his query


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Alaska, versus switzerland. 2 days shipping isn't precise for his query


word. it's so hard to purchase from there, because it conflicts with my schedule. when it opens, im at work. i tried to see if it was open during my lunch break, but sadly no. i wanna get my order in by today or tomorrow and have sent to me by next weekend. so i can get a jumpstart on sleeving during spring break


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Alaska, versus switzerland. 2 days shipping isn't precise for his query


Ahahah, ROFL, didn't even notice that


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> word. it's so hard to purchase from there, because it conflicts with my schedule. when it opens, im at work. i tried to see if it was open during my lunch break, but sadly no. i wanna get my order in by today or tomorrow and have sent to me by next weekend. so i can get a jumpstart on sleeving during spring break


To keep shipping costs down Nils sends packages as "registered letter", so to Alaska it'll be longer than two weeks I'm guessing. If you email him with your schedule he might offer to open out of hours. (Just FYI: he's got a regular job too and social life, which is why he tends to open only during his own lunch break and after dinner in the evening, and rarely on Fri/Sat.)


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> To keep shipping costs down Nils sends packages as "registered letter", so to Alaska it'll be longer than two weeks I'm guessing. If you email him with your schedule he might offer to open out of hours. (Just FYI: he's got a regular job too and social life, which is why he tends to open only during his own lunch break and after dinner in the evening, and rarely on Fri/Sat.)


oh i know, he makes it obvious in his website lol. i have nothing but respect for what he does and how he chooses to do it. it just sucks that my schedule is totally opposite of his store hours. i work part time (6hrs) and go to school full time, so i don't have flexibility on weekdays too. i usually have my girlfriend make orders for me if i can't. but this order maybe too detailed for her lol and i don't want her to screw it up because she has done that before. so i try to do everything on my own.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> oh i know, he makes it obvious in his website lol. i have nothing but respect for what he does and how he chooses to do it. it just sucks that my schedule is totally opposite of his store hours. i work part time (6hrs) and go to school full time, so i don't have flexibility on weekdays too. i usually have my girlfriend make orders for me if i can't. but this order maybe too detailed for her lol and i don't want her to screw it up because she has done that before. so i try to do everything on my own.


If you're a trusting individual and can find another trusting individual you could paypal someone the money as a gift, have them order the sleeving for you and have it shipped to your address. You would just provide a detailed list of supplies you want.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> If you're a trusting individual and can find another trusting individual you could paypal someone the money as a gift, have them order the sleeving for you and have it shipped to your address. You would just provide a detailed list of supplies you want.


There ya go, it's a new service to offer. "I'll order your mdpc-x within one day for you for x percent"


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> oh i know, he makes it obvious in his website lol. i have nothing but respect for what he does and how he chooses to do it. it just sucks that my schedule is totally opposite of his store hours. i work part time (6hrs) and go to school full time, so i don't have flexibility on weekdays too. i usually have my girlfriend make orders for me if i can't. but this order maybe too detailed for her lol and i don't want her to screw it up because she has done that before. so i try to do everything on my own.


Just browse the German website, choose what you want to order and E-mail Nils explaining that you can't be online during its opening time, it won't be a problem


----------



## Jwright0291

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> He ships usps priority unless its tiny stuff... I got my crimper and some pins 4 days after ordering.


Does he send out a tracking email?
I ordered last wednesday


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Alaska, versus switzerland. 2 days shipping isn't precise for his query
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> word. it's so hard to purchase from there, because it conflicts with my schedule. when it opens, im at work. i tried to see if it was open during my lunch break, but sadly no. i wanna get my order in by today or tomorrow and have sent to me by next weekend. so i can get a jumpstart on sleeving during spring break
Click to expand...

as the other users have stated, I could buy it for you if it's during the day. I work in an office so it wouldn't be a problem


----------



## audioholic

Well guys tried my hand at making my custom cables today. I bought this wire :
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60_156&products_id=2265
And I have the old FTWPC crimper( Blue with black grips)
Now I went to make the crimp, gave it a little tug and it came off.....tried it on the wire from my Strider and it was solid as a rock. I could put it in the connector, depin and all was well.
With the white wire, I would put it in the connector, go to depin and it would pop right off inside the connector.








Any tips???And how on earth do you calibrate these tools?


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Well guys tried my hand at making my custom cables today. I bought this wire :
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60_156&products_id=2265
> And I have the old FTWPC crimper( Blue with black grips)
> Now I went to make the crimp, gave it a little tug and it came off.....tried it on the wire from my Strider and it was solid as a rock. I could put it in the connector, depin and all was well.
> With the white wire, I would put it in the connector, go to depin and it would pop right off inside the connector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any tips???And how on earth do you calibrate these tools?


Can you share a picture of the white wire crimped before you pull the crimp off?


----------



## audioholic

Here is 2 separate ones I did,
dont mind the wire strip, I just did this with a spare piece I had




After the crimp pulls off


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Here is 2 separate ones I did,
> dont mind the wire strip, I just did this with a spare piece I had
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the crimp pulls off


The exposed wire looks short. Try mimicking this picture. It's a poster we have hanging up at work.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotO*
> 
> I'm not paying half the cost of my PSU for a crimper. Sorry.


FrozenCPU sells the same exact crimper as Lutro0 right here. I have used this crimper on several projects, and I can easily say that it is fantastic:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3701/slt-16/FrozenCPU_Molex_Crimping_Tool.html?tl=g35c133s257

However, I've recently upgraded to an even better crimper. This crimper is literally one of the best tools I have ever used. The crimps are beautiful every single time and has three different sizes, (one for fan, one for ATX, one for molex). I made custom cables for my entire AX1200, as well as recrimped an HX1000, all with this crimper. It is smooth, and solidly made. It's even cheaper:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18146/too-67/Professional_Deluxe_Molex_Crimping_Tool_SN-28B.html?tl=g35c133s257

You've honestly got to be kidding me. $50 for a crimper, that's not even fair. As much as I love Lutro0's sleeving, this makes me angry. You're paying extra to have a "Lutro0 official crimper". Give me a break...


----------



## audioholic

Tried three more pins...tried different wire from another PSU and it stuck...use this white wire...same method...comes off with a little tug


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Tried three more pins...tried different wire from another PSU and it stuck...use this white wire...same method...comes off with a little tug


Can you verify they sent the correct gauge wire?

Does the protective shielding look thicker on the other wire?


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MotO*
> 
> I'm not paying half the cost of my PSU for a crimper. Sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> FrozenCPU sells the same exact crimper as Lutro0 right here. I have used this crimper on several projects, and I can easily say that it is fantastic:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3701/slt-16/FrozenCPU_Molex_Crimping_Tool.html?tl=g35c133s257
> 
> However, I've recently upgraded to an even better crimper. This crimper is literally one of the best tools I have ever used. The crimps are beautiful every single time and has three different sizes, (one for fan, one for ATX, one for molex). I made custom cables for my entire AX1200, as well as recrimped an HX1000, all with this crimper. It is smooth, and solidly made. It's even cheaper:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18146/too-67/Professional_Deluxe_Molex_Crimping_Tool_SN-28B.html?tl=g35c133s257
> 
> You've honestly got to be kidding me. $50 for a crimper, that's not even fair. As much as I love Lutro0's sleeving, this makes me angry. You're paying extra to have a "Lutro0 official crimper". Give me a break...
Click to expand...

Let's be clear; the Crimping tool from FrozenCPU is NOT the same tool as that supplied by LutroO. The FrozenCPU tool is the Hans Long 225D which produces overlapping crimps on ATX pins that are not robust and can be pulled off the wire. I'm surprised that you didn't experience this when stretching the sleeving prior to fixing in place. While it's a good tool for the molex type pins on the auxilliary connectors it's not in the same class as Lutro0's or the MDPC-X tool.

While the SN-28B Crimper you now have might be the best tool you've used it still doesn't match the quality of Lutro0's tool (each die is composed of 2 separate pieces rather than a single piece on the 28B) nor does it provide the same quality of crimp. Although the crimps are reasonably robust the tool crushes the wire and can break the insulation. It can be modified to work well but as supplied it's flawed.

Don't criticise a tool you haven't used and don't have the experience to comment on.


----------



## audioholic

here is a step by step of what I am doing
I really apologizing for flooding this thread but this is really frustrating.
Edit: I redid the crimp on another wire this way and it was the same result, fell right off with a tug.






for these last two I did it backwards(the pin) it crimps really strong and holds, but does not bend the flaps for the wire and crushes the whole pin


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> here is a step by step of what I am doing
> I really apologizing for flooding this thread but this is really frustrating.
> Edit: I redid the crimp on another wire this way and it was the same result, fell right off with a tug.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for these last two I did it backwards(the pin) it crimps really strong and holds, but does not bend the flaps for the wire and crushes the whole pin


I can't see anything standing out as an obvious mistake. Maybe try using the other slot?


----------



## audioholic

The smaller one?


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> The smaller one?


Yeah. If it has a thin wall of insulation, it might not grip it correctly? I'm drawing straws at this point. Everything looks ok to me.


----------



## adi518

@Moto: a good crimper costs more. The original tool costs nearly 250$. If you check the debate from past few pages you'll see that the tool offered by Mdpc/Lutro is better than the official. Lutro is offering the best tool for the best price (Mdpc is charging nearly 80$ before s&h). It's seriously unbeatable. If you don't feel your psu is worth it, then simply sell it and a get better one. Preferably a modular with lots of horse power.

I got few tools from Lutro and everything is working like a dream ! It's absolutely worth it. Look at the guy above and how much is struggling with that stupid Hans Long tool. Afaik, Ftw stopped selling it after some time. So should PPC.


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> @Moto: a good crimper costs more. The original tool costs nearly 250$. If you check the debate from past few pages you'll see that the tool offered by Mdpc/Lutro is better than the official. Lutro is offering the best tool for the best price (Mdpc is charging nearly 80$ before s&h) . It's seriously unbeatable. If you don't feel your psu is worth it, then simply sell it and a get better one. Preferably a modular.
> 
> I got few tools from Lutro and everything is working like a dream ! It's absolutely worth it. Look at the guy above and how much is struggling with that stupid Hans Long tool. Afaik, Ftw stopped selling it after some time. So should PPC.


THIS! Next time I get paid I am getting a different crimper! I have waster about 20 crimps trying to get this thing to work. It is trash! I finally got to the point where I am just cutting up the wires that are already with the PSU and crimping pins, then when I sleeve I will use the good ends to take off.


----------



## audioholic

Not perfect. Going to redo the whole thing eventually. Originally had the heatshrink around the connectors but it tore. But this is my first attempt with the stuff


----------



## dmanstasiu

Is that MDPC ? It seems surprisingly transparent


----------



## audioholic

No its the knock-off







I couldn't get the weave very tight. I'll try it again later.


----------



## dmanstasiu

fuzzy thingies on ebay ?


----------



## airplaneman

Hey!

Was hoping to get some shots of grey/white/orange sleeving. Any combination of those colours will work; I'm just looking for ideas on what pattern to use.

Also, is there any clean way to sleeve chained connectors, like on a molex 4-pin power cable that has several connectors on one cable, or do I need crimping tools to make the custom pass-through cables?


----------



## audioholic

The sleeving I used is from sleeve-modding.com. This was just a trial piece to see how I liked the color. Eventually I will be getting a better crimper and all the cables will be white. And hopefully I can get the sleeve pulled tight enough to look better


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airplaneman*
> 
> Hey!
> 
> Was hoping to get some shots of grey/white/orange sleeving. Any combination of those colours will work; I'm just looking for ideas on what pattern to use.
> 
> Also, is there any clean way to sleeve chained connectors, like on a molex 4-pin power cable that has several connectors on one cable, or do I need crimping tools to make the custom pass-through cables?


Without heatshrink, I don't believe that the molex chain is possible with most sleeving. Even with heatshrink, it's extremely difficult to make it look clean. You're better off making your own pass through's. And the best part is with pass through connectors, you don't need a crimping tool. All you have to do is push the wire directly down into the connector. The metal tabs act like blades, cutting through the wire insulation and making contact with the strands:

Here's reference pictures for you: Link


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airplaneman*
> 
> Was hoping to get some shots of grey/white/orange sleeving. Any combination of those colours will work; I'm just looking for ideas on what pattern to use.


I just finished up an 8-pin CPU power cable for my "Muzzle Flash" build and it is Orange, Titanium Grey, and Shade 19.

MDPC sleeving, and lots of tools and help from Lutro0.







Here are two other sections in my build that you may be interested in. I was asking what people thought would look best for various combinations. They can give you some ideas maybe.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Ok, time to figure out what colors and combinations to pick for the sleeving. I have a wide variety of them, but these are my four favorite ones. Here are four choices, please let me know what you think, or come up with another possibility and I'll see if I can whip it up and take a photograph real quick. These will go to my 2 EVGA GTX 580 video cards.
> 
> 
> 
> Choice 1 - Black, Gray, Orange, Gray, Orange, Gray, Black
> 
> 
> 
> Choice 2 - Black, Orange, Gray, Orange, Gray Orange, Black
> 
> 
> 
> Choice 3 - Black, Gray, Orange, Orange, Orange, Gray, Black
> 
> 
> 
> Choice 1 - Black, Gray, Orange, Yellow, Orange, Gray, Black


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Ok, I whipped up the 2nd choice to see how it would actually look.
> 
> 
> 
> (Choice 1 - Black, Black, Orange, Orange, Gray, Orange, Orange, Gray, Orange, Orange, Black, Black)
> 
> 
> 
> (Choice 2 - Black, Orange, Orange, Gray, Gray , Orange, Orange, Gray, Gray, Orange, Orange, Black)


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Without heatshrink, I don't believe that the molex chain is possible with most sleeving. Even with heatshrink, it's extremely difficult to make it look clean. You're better off making your own pass through's. And the best part is with pass through connectors, you don't need a crimping tool. All you have to do is push the wire directly down into the connector. The metal tabs act like blades, cutting through the wire insulation and making contact with the strands:
> 
> Here's reference pictures for you: Link


That is sick! Thanks

So I don't need a tool or anything like that, I can just cut my old power supply wires and use these instead? Do they make something like this for SATA? I looked on that site, but all I could find were ones that required a tool.

and 47 Knucklehead, thanks for those pics!


----------



## goodtobeking

yeah they make them for sata power as well. I just use an old punch down tool I have, but I'm sure you can find something else to use as a tool for them


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airplaneman*
> 
> That is sick! Thanks
> 
> So I don't need a tool or anything like that, I can just cut my old power supply wires and use these instead? Do they make something like this for SATA? I looked on that site, but all I could find were ones that required a tool.
> 
> and 47 Knucklehead, thanks for those pics!


A pair of needle-nose pliers will work to push them down. Some people like to use a flathead screwdriver as well. Literally whatever is most to your liking, no need to purchase a push down tool (although it does make it a bit easier). Just be wary to not slip and pinch a finger, it hurts real bad!

Push-Down SATA Connectors: Link

Frozen Calls them "EZ Crimp" connectors on their site. When you purchase, don't forget to select the type of top piece for each connector. After all the wires have been pushed down, this little plastic piece protects them from accidentally coming out, or from an accidental shortage. The pass-thru type of cover is designed for the wires to continue out the other side of the SATA or Molex connector, allowing you to chain together as many SATA's or Molex's as you want. The end cap type of cover is the cover used to end the chain. One side of the cover is longer, and covers up the wires at the end of the last connector in your chain. I use these connectors all the time, they are fantastic!


----------



## MotO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> If you don't feel your psu is worth it, then simply sell it and a get better one. Preferably a modular with lots of horse power.


Ummmm, OK. Makes perfect sense. Anyways...

Webster, I found that ConnectorZ one for even cheaper on jabtech

http://www.jab-tech.com/ConnectorZ-Molex-Crimp-Tool-pr-2174.html

This thread has a bunch of people using these crimps with good results. The dab of solder method also doesn't sound like a bad way to do it.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?242609-Which-Molex-Crimping-Tool

I might just go to Home Depot and grab one since I can easily take it back. Being able to feel it in person would be awesome.


----------



## audioholic

If you get a crimper for 20 bucks it can't be good. Look at all the trouble I am having with a 40 dollar crimper..absolutely trash. Does it work if you don't tug on the crimp or ever want to pull the crimp back out...absolutely. But if you're going to sleeve and crimp all new connectors spend the money on a quality product. LutroOs tool is half what it should be. The man is doing all of us a favor and I would buy from him over any other company who is just trying to make a buck. Save yourself the headache and the time and spend your money on something actually worth something. I don't have much experience in sleeving/crimping but after wasting about 40 pins I know now to get quality products from people with experience.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Speaking of crimping tools. I'm going to post an email chain I had with Performance PC's about their crimp tool. I responded 7 days ago and haven't heard anything back so I assume they just put it in their trash folder. I don't know much about PPCS, as this was my first purchase from them. For what it's worth, here you go...



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



> Hi. This morning i received a crimp tool I ordered, Deluxe Molex Hand Crimp Tool (CRIMPER-DX), which I'd like to return.
>
> The crimp tool isn't broken, it's just junk. It will "crimp" a contact in the wire, but the connection is far from secure. I can easily pull the wire from the contact after its been crimped. I can see now why this tool was only 25.00.
>
> I understand I'll have to pay the return shipping which makes returning it almost not worth the time, but since I have no use for the tool, I guess I have no other option. I ask that you waive the 20% restocking fee. Even though its only 5 dollars, that will only leave me with 25% of my money returned. Also, the fact that the tool is worthless is no fault of my own. I shouldn't be penalized for that.
>
> Thank you

Customer Service

Feb 20 (7 days ago)

to me

Dear .....

We sell thousands of these tools and have never had even one complaint. They are awesome tools and work perfectly and are used by all our techs here. If you are having problems then you are just not using it right. You are welcome to return it but we cannot waive any restock fees.

In order for us to issue an RMA# Please fill out the Return Merchandise Authorization form on the website home page. It will be in the right sidebar under the Policies Section. Or click here:

RMA Form

Once you have submitted the RMA form we will check it over to see if it qualifies for an return. If it does qualify we will email you the RMA#.

You would then print this out and then send back the RMA email form with the return(s). PLEASE ALWAYS write you RMA # on at least two (2) sides of the package so it is clearly visible.

Any package sent to us without this proper procedure being done or without the form returned will be refused back to the customer.

Thank you.

Best Regards,

Customer Service

1701 Robert J. Conlan Blvd. NE, Unit #5
Palm Bay, FL 32905, USA

Toll Free: 888-381-8222 | Phone: 321-725-9969 | Fax: 549-5001

[email protected] - Email us!
www.facebook.com/PerformancePCs - Like us in Facebook!
www.twitter.com/PerformancePCs - Follow us on Twitter!

>
>

>

>
>
>

Thank you for the timely response, and also for warning me about your technicians using this particular tool. I'll make sure to never buy any crimped cable from PPCS in the future.

Also, the fact that you blame the customer for not doing it properly rather than admitting the tools you sell are inferior speaks volumes of you and your company. I'll be sure to let everyone in the multiple PC modding forums I visit know of your "Customer Service."

I'm planning on keeping the crimp tool, not because it's of any value to me, but more to remind me of why I'll never visit the PPCS website again. A trophy of shame if you will. In addition, I feel that it is my duty to keep this tool out of the hands of any customer who wants a reliable crimp.

I'm going waste another pin and crimp it to some 18AWG cable and attach those pictures for clarification. Please forward to your technical department as apparently they have had success using this Fisher-Price tool. If they can find flaw in my technique, I'd be more than willing to accept constructive criticism. A "you're doing it wrong" won't be sufficient.

Thanks again for your time. I hope you have a good day.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Performance PC's is usually very good. I've ordered many thousands of dollars of gear from them over the years, and they usually stand behind the products they sell. But having said that, I tend to lean towards buying quality tools once and have them last a long time.

I've bought and used $20, $40, $70, and (used, not bought) $300 crimpers, and I must say, the more you spend, the better.

Personally, for sleeving tools, I'd go to either MDPC or Lutro0 Customs and pay a little extra and get a high quality set of tools. I have a crimper from MDPC (before I found out Lutro0 opened his shop) and also have strippers, a molex pin tool, a paracord sleeving tool, sleeve measure tool, and diagonal cutters from Lutro0.

Sure I paid about $150 or so for it all, but they greatly speed up my sleeving process, but more importantly, they make a quality cable and will last a long time ... and will be used on many sleeving jobs and builds.

Granted, you don't have to go as nuts as I have, but I would give serious consideration to at least getting a good quality crimper and molex pin tool.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Follow up with an email. They may not have discarded it, people in customer service can get very busy


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Follow up with an email. They may not have discarded it, people in customer service can get very busy


They responded to my first email the next day so I assumed since it's been a week, they've moved on. I've chalked it up to a life lesson - pretty much as Knucklehead stated. You get what you pay for.


----------



## audioholic

I have had nothing but good luck with PPCs. Good customer service good products. We have the same product. Although it is true that a lot of people have had success..we unfortunately have not. Like I said I would like to see this crimper used and tugged on. Maybe our calibration is wrong? I'm not trying to pick sides or anything but just trying to find a solution and or compromise to those of us who have this same problem.
Although my crimper was from FTWPC its obviously the same product. I would try emailing PPCs again and try a different approach. I understand your frustration as it frustrates me as well, but this tool is everywhere. Now my plan is to try another crimper and just chew up the cost.
I'll get that crimper ordered and see how it goes.


----------



## audioholic

Made my post before I saw the other two.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Follow up with an email. They may not have discarded it, people in customer service can get very busy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They responded to my first email the next day so I assumed since it's been a week, they've moved on. I've chalked it up to a life lesson - pretty much as Knucklehead stated. You get what you pay for.
Click to expand...

Just try replying, no harm done. You've decided to accept that they're ignoring you while this may not be true


----------



## wsjackson5

Sleeved my EPS cable:


----------



## goodtobeking

MMMM paracord. Looks good. Just rebuilt my system after having it torn down for a week. Will take some pictures of the new sleeving tomorrow when I tear it back down to add some led lighting.


----------



## Killa Cam

yeaaaahhh boiiieee!!! finally ordered my mdpc sleeving and crimp last night. hopefully it'll be here by next weekedend *cross fingers*.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotO*
> 
> Ummmm, OK. Makes perfect sense. Anyways...
> 
> Webster, I found that ConnectorZ one for even cheaper on jabtech
> 
> http://www.jab-tech.com/ConnectorZ-Molex-Crimp-Tool-pr-2174.html
> 
> This thread has a bunch of people using these crimps with good results. The dab of solder method also doesn't sound like a bad way to do it.
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?242609-Which-Molex-Crimping-Tool
> 
> I might just go to Home Depot and grab one since I can easily take it back. Being able to feel it in person would be awesome.


Do what you want, just don't come complaining later it's not good lol. From my experience, the practice of buying cheap, ends up expensive.

What I said about the psu totally makes sense. Unless you have a good 80+ modular psu, it's not worth bothering with. Also, don't think only about the present but on future projects as well. You can also find out that you like it so much that you will create stuff for others and quickly earn up the expense on good tools.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Do what you want, just don't come complaining later it's not good lol. From my experience, the practice of buying cheap, ends up expensive.
> 
> What I said about the psu totally makes sense. Unless you have a good 80+ modular psu, it's not worth bothering with. Also, don't think only about the present but on future projects as well. You can also find out that you like it so much that you will create stuff for others and quickly earn up the expense on good tools.


I obviously agree with adi and the others being I sell the crimper, please get ahold of me as if I need to give you a discount to get a good crimper in your hands I will do it.

The difference is so huge, but you cannot see it or understand it until you have used a proper tool with molex pins.


----------



## wsjackson5

I agree, I used a D-sub crimper I found at Radio shack for some ATX pins. Painful.


----------



## jd2195

Lutro0, when will you be getting the sleeving spacers in stock on your website?


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Do what you want, just don't come complaining later it's not good lol. From my experience, the practice of buying cheap, ends up expensive.
> 
> What I said about the psu totally makes sense. Unless you have a good 80+ modular psu, it's not worth bothering with. Also, don't think only about the present but on future projects as well. You can also find out that you like it so much that you will create stuff for others and quickly earn up the expense on good tools.


Its all about the experience. For those that don't care about quality go cheap. You have two bad experiences above clearly showing how bad these are, and you still want to get one? I'm not trying to start a argument but good grief. It's not worth it to get a cheap crimper and then spend money for another one down the road because that one is garbage.


----------



## MotO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Its all about the experience. For those that don't care about quality go cheap. You have two bad experiences above clearly showing how bad these are, and you still want to get one? I'm not trying to start a argument but good grief. It's not worth it to get a cheap crimper and then spend money for another one down the road because that one is garbage.


Jesus, expensive =! automatically mean good. That is a stupid way of thinking and then you have this dude going "huurrr buy a $500 overkill e-peen PSU so you can justify it" and it makes it even worse. Did you even read the XS thread I linked to? Its no jab at lutro because I'm sure his is really good but for the 2 fail stories you posted there are 5 success stories in the XS thread. I guess those people are lying?

Anyways this has gotten off topic since all I wanted to know is if those I posted worked size wise. Don't have experience with those? Don't post about them then.


----------



## adi518

Yeh. That's what happened to me exactly. I was really thinking Moddiy ready-to-go sleeved cables are good but eventually, after getting them I found out they're sub-par and not that accurately made (I spent a fortune believing it's the best thing). Also, after getting Mdpc, I realized there isn't much room for comparison. I also got the B28 crimper and thought it's exactly like the Mdpc tool. Well, it's not a bad tool but it's still one level lower. However, in all of this, I realized something more important. There's nothing better than you learning the how-to and making it yourself. That's true modding freedom.









@Moto: soldering is a pain in the ass. Seriously. I wasn't saying get a 500$ psu. I've got a Seasonic X-560. This psu cost me slightly more than 120$ and it's absolutely worth it, especially for the reason I can make my cables, move on to a different model of the X, say an X-860 (or get Corsair AX) and still be able to use my cables. Also, let's say you're now building a new rig and want to move your current sleeved psu to another rig, maybe smaller one. All you have to do is make new cables for it, at the exact size you want. It has a lot of value whereas non-modular is a PITA to sleeve and modify. That's the point I was trying to make really. I don't know where you live but in the States such good psus can be had for way less than I paid for mine.


----------



## MotO

Isn't there a group of OCNers that do custom cables? If you can do an 8 pin and 24 pin for under or around $40 then I'd be down.

I still might go to home depot and get a bunch of crimpers so we can get sort of a database of capable crimpers.

Don't take my posts as flaming btw. I'm a tight ass and also a manufacturing engineer so I always look at things and say "I could make it way cheaper!". Hell I've heard of people using needle nose plier's to do it so I might even try that. The ultimate budget way.

Edit: my PSU was over $120 but I'm down sizing to a 140mm one.


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotO*
> 
> Isn't there a group of OCNers that do custom cables? If you can do an 8 pin and 24 pin for under or around $40 then I'd be down.
> 
> I still might go to home depot and get a bunch of crimpers so we can get sort of a database of capable crimpers.
> 
> Don't take my posts as flaming btw. I'm a tight ass and also a manufacturing engineer so I always look at things and say "I could make it way cheaper!". Hell I've heard of people using needle nose plier's to do it so I might even try that. The ultimate budget way.
> 
> Edit: my PSU was over $120 but I'm down sizing to a 140mm one.


Way to use the "=!" instead of "does not"!! Not being sarcastic, it amuses me when people do it, I don't know why. I also do this lol.

But as an engineer, shouldn't you realize the value in good tools? Expensive doesn't mean good, you're right. Tools are meant to be a long-term purchase, and the cheap crimpers have proven to be unreliable. Say you buy a cheap one for $25 and it doesn't work, so you return it and get one that does work. Great! A $25 crimper, right? Wrong. You should still consider the time you spent to return the product, and the added costs (gas, postage, etc). If you spent an hour exchanging the tool, then add your hourly wage to the price and then see what it ended up costing. I bet it will be more than $50.

Also look at ease of use. The cheaper tool may be harder to use and less efficient, so your crimping job takes twice as long as it should. You should factor that time into the cost of the tool as well.

Opportunity costs my man; it's all about opportunity costs... What will that $25 saved really get you in the end? Probably nothing.

EDIT: If you don't want to drop the cash for the expensive tool, I would suggest getting someone to make the cables for you. I am in the same board as you here. I wanted to do custom cables, but can't justify the expensive tool and don't want to buy the cheap one, so I'm just going to get them made, or not at all.


----------



## WebsterXC

Jesus christ people this is getting old:

Stop being obessive over both the MDPC tool, and Nil's tool. Yes, we've established they are the best of the best, but he's already said he can't afford it, or doesn't wish to purchase it. Your posts trying to explain why he should purchase something that he doesn't want to buy are useless and a waste; there have literally been pages of it, it's not difficult to understand. He has thoroughly been warned about the dangers of buying a cheaper crimping tool, I'm pretty sure he's able to make his own decision on what to buy.

MotO is asking for advice on a cheaper crimping tool (I don't know how many times he's repeated himself), not for people to push their beliefs and opinions on him. OCN has a fantastic reputation of being a relatively unbias, and professional forum in the industry. Let's keep it that way.


----------



## Hanoverfist




----------



## nezff

what are doing with the violet?


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You've got to take those in before the frost or they will die!

Great pictures BTW


----------



## yanks8981

Whats the best sleeving PSU on the market now? My AX1200 is great, but too big and I am considering downsizing it. Thoughts?


----------



## jd2195

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yanks8981*
> 
> Whats the best sleeving PSU on the market now? My AX1200 is great, but too big and I am considering downsizing it. Thoughts?


Go look in the FAQ's for sleeving; it has a list of good power supplies for sleeving.


----------



## pexon




----------



## CrazyCorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*


Is that Nils stuff?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> what are doing with the violet?


Ah... Another Project , Not yet Released
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> You've got to take those in before the frost or they will die!
> 
> Great pictures BTW


----------



## pexon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> Is that Nils stuff?


Yes mate


----------



## CrazyCorky

Blah.. I need to order some stuff from him but I need to decide on a color scheme first. That's the hardest part.


----------



## Jwright0291

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*


What camera are you taking these amazing pictures with? Lookin' good, lookin' reallll good


----------



## adi518

Worth sleeving ?









Those latches make it kinda hard. The silicon thing is removable though.


----------



## goodtobeking

OOOOOhhhhh an Eloop. I love the look of those fans. Would be hard to sleeve with such a short cable. I say do it and post another pic but thats me


----------



## adi518

Gonna have to break the latches.









Hmm.. anyone who has this fan, any "special" way of removing the blades? I mean it's suppose to come off as a feature but I'm trying and it's resisting real bad. Too afraid it will break.


----------



## shadow water

paricord sleeving for the win


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Gonna have to break the latches.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm.. anyone who has this fan, any "special" way of removing the blades? I mean it's suppose to come off as a feature but I'm trying and it's resisting real bad. Too afraid it will break.


Had the same problem with my Akasa apache/viper fans. Same fan basically and I could get the vipers blades to pop off easily, but the apaches wouldnt budge. I ended up breaking one of the apaches off the frame and then decided to rip the blade housing off by prying with a screwdriver(fan was already ruined so why not). Got it to pop of eventually the same way as the vipers, but there is no way to remove the blades without destroying the frame


----------



## adi518

The eloop is designed to have the rotor come off:










Like the Enermax Vegas fans.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Adi.. C- clip under that Sticker?

Jwright0291.. Canon S100


----------



## adi518

I believe you're not suppose to take off the sticker. I sent NB an email to inquire about this 'feature'.


----------



## audioholic

Any tips on single sleeve/multiple sleeving my 8 pin/6 pin?
Like this??


My attempt was pretty much a failure. My heatshrink blew out, and I am thinking I will need super glue to hold the sleeving and then lightly heatshrink?
Here is my attempt:


----------



## longroadtrip

I sleeve each wire for my 8 pin similar to the 24 pin and 6 or 8 pin GPU cables. The only cables that I single sleeve are the fans, USB, and audio cables. I single sleeve the front panel connectors usually too.


----------



## audioholic

I might just single sleeve them then







I just thought it would have been different to do all the cables into one


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Any tips on single sleeve/multiple sleeving my 8 pin/6 pin?
> Like this??


What kind of sleeving was used for those cables? I'm assuming MDPC, but in the SATA size?


----------



## adi518

Definitely looks like MDPC sata sleeve + MDPC sata shrink.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Definitely looks like MDPC sata sleeve + MDPC sata shrink.


Sata shrink is way too small for that connector.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> Sata shrink is way too small for that connector.


THIS, and looks like the walls of the shrink are thicker than what you get from MDPC. I like the single sleeve concept though.


----------



## Vitaminx

For sleeving cables such as USB and SATA, how long do you typically make the heatshrink since I've seen a lot of people cover both the connector and the cable. I don't think 15 mm is long enough to do that. What length is typical?


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> Sata shrink is way too small for that connector.


Hmm.. maybe it was expanded with pliers. Nils does have a bigger heatshrink but afaik, it doesn't come in white.


----------



## audioholic

I expanded my SATA heatshrink and when I heated it it blew out on me. I got some heatshrink from furryletters so we will see how it goes. Will update tonight


----------



## yanks8981

Has anyone ever sleeved an EVGA SuperNova NEX650G? Are there any double pins? How is the quality of the PSU?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotO*
> 
> Isn't there a group of OCNers that do custom cables? If you can do an 8 pin and 24 pin for under or around $40 then I'd be down.
> 
> I still might go to home depot and get a bunch of crimpers so we can get sort of a database of capable crimpers.
> 
> Don't take my posts as flaming btw. I'm a tight ass and also a manufacturing engineer so I always look at things and say "I could make it way cheaper!". Hell I've heard of people using needle nose plier's to do it so I might even try that. The ultimate budget way.
> 
> Edit: my PSU was over $120 but I'm down sizing to a 140mm one.


There is a facebook group and the artisan section here on OCN,

https://www.facebook.com/groups/WorldwidePCSleevingServicesGroup/

Also Moto, send me a PM I would like to offer you a discount on my crimper as I would like you to have a proper tool to do your crimping. Also its a beautifull thing to have a great crimper to do your work. I would like to know you got that smile on your face when you use it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Worth sleeving ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those latches make it kinda hard. The silicon thing is removable though.
> 
> -snip-


I made a video how to do this on my youtube channel, most fans are done the same way, but some are molded so it doesnt work on all.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Hmm.. maybe it was expanded with pliers. Nils does have a bigger heatshrink but afaik, it doesn't come in white.


Yes you are right,

ProTip: You can stretch heatshrink with a needle-nose pliers quite a bit, and it will shrink down to the size it was supposed to. You need to go slow and do it from both sides, just take your time or you will tear the shrink. I have gotten sata shrink (MDPC) to stretch very very far, it just takes some time and patience.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yanks8981*
> 
> Has anyone ever sleeved an EVGA SuperNova NEX650G? Are there any double pins? How is the quality of the PSU?


Yes it has V-Sense wires, performance is middling at best. It's definitely not a highly recommended unit. Though it's not a system killer.


----------



## pexon

One from today


----------



## nleksan

I am looking to sleeve ALL the exterior wires of my PC, as well as my audio system... This includes speaker cables, power cords, monitor (DL DVI-I/DVI-D) and Television (HDMI/Component) cables, mouse/keyboard, headphones/PC Speakers, and so forth. If it plugs into the computer, receiver, cable box, or television, I want it sleeved.

Why? Why Not? Plus, I found some wicked EMI and RFI Filtering/Blocking sleeve from TechFlex, so that'll cover the speaker and audio cables.

However, I want something that looks good for my computer cables, but I don't know what kind of sleeving would hold up to such use?

My whole build is White/Black themed, with a bit of red (via Rampage IV Extreme), so I am thinking maybe "Shade 19" or a similar color (light-gunmetal)?

Any advice/experience/"do it"/"DON'T DO THAT YOU IDIOT"/tips/links/etc would be very much appreciated!


----------



## longroadtrip

I used shade19 for my power cables...guide located here...


----------



## Hanoverfist

Shot of SATA..


----------



## MkO611

So after 6hrs of trying to sleeve with paracord without heatshrink, i gave up.
Everytime I melt the ends of the paracord and try to put it in the connector, it just don't fit.
I managed to get one sleeved that would fit in both ends lol


----------



## audioholic

You have to make sure the paracord is really tight. Where are you putting the ends?


----------



## MkO611

Quote:


> Where are you putting the ends?


In the PCI-E connector...
(Did i read your question wrong?)

I'll try tightening the ends tho, that might be the problem


----------



## longroadtrip

I think audio is asking where on the pin are you melting the paracord...


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MkO611*
> 
> In the PCI-E connector...
> (Did i read your question wrong?)
> 
> I'll try tightening the ends tho, that might be the problem


I think he means where on the pin are you melting the ends of the paracord.

Edit: Ninja'd!


----------



## audioholic

Yea sorry! I was on my phone and didnt really think of what I was saying....when doing paracord you need to really pull it tight. And then you barely melt the end...if you melt it more it will get harder(as I am sure you found out. Now what you can do is melt it down more and form the paracord to fit in the connector.
I had this issue and it was just an issue of me not pulling the paracord tight enough. Dont be afraid to burn your fingers..pain only lasts only a couple seconds


----------



## MkO611

Ok i tried tightening one of them and it fit. But other ones i keep burning the ends too much and it becomes a big blob of melted crap.I'm going to give it another go tmm or after my hands are done healing (I have cuts all over from trying to get the connectors out and stuff







)


----------



## audioholic

Your melting it too much lol...just a little bit should be melted, just pull it tight


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Yea sorry! I was on my phone and didnt really think of what I was saying....when doing paracord you need to really pull it tight. And then you barely melt the end...if you melt it more it will get harder(as I am sure you found out. Now what you can do is melt it down more and form the paracord to fit in the connector.
> I had this issue and it was just an issue of me not pulling the paracord tight enough. *Dont be afraid to burn your fingers..pain only lasts only a couple seconds*


yes pain is your friend lol.

Yeah you are melting too much. You only need to barely melt the end enough to get it to grab the pin. You should also be melting it where the bare wire is crimped into the pin.


----------



## CrazyCorky

Like an idiot I forgot to measure my PSU cables length... How ever on average would 50ft of paracord be enough? Mind you ill be doing a 2 color scheme. I would love to buy the stuff from Nils but not sure how broke I would be afterwards.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*
> 
> One from today
> 
> -snip-


Good to see you on ocn bud.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> I am looking to sleeve ALL the exterior wires of my PC, as well as my audio system... This includes speaker cables, power cords, monitor (DL DVI-I/DVI-D) and Television (HDMI/Component) cables, mouse/keyboard, headphones/PC Speakers, and so forth. If it plugs into the computer, receiver, cable box, or television, I want it sleeved.
> 
> Why? Why Not? Plus, I found some wicked EMI and RFI Filtering/Blocking sleeve from TechFlex, so that'll cover the speaker and audio cables.
> 
> However, I want something that looks good for my computer cables, but I don't know what kind of sleeving would hold up to such use?
> 
> My whole build is White/Black themed, with a bit of red (via Rampage IV Extreme), so I am thinking maybe "Shade 19" or a similar color (light-gunmetal)?
> 
> Any advice/experience/"do it"/"DON'T DO THAT YOU IDIOT"/tips/links/etc would be very much appreciated!


Not at all, sleeving should be stretched and always pushed into new areas. Take your time and be ready to possibly have to solder some stuff.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MkO611*
> 
> So after 6hrs of trying to sleeve with paracord without heatshrink, i gave up.
> Everytime I melt the ends of the paracord and try to put it in the connector, it just don't fit.
> I managed to get one sleeved that would fit in both ends lol


Have you watched my video on youtube on heathsrinkless paracord? It will show you how much to melt and were and also what to do if you melt too much. What gauge wire are you using as well?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> Like an idiot I forgot to measure my PSU cables length... How ever on average would 50ft of paracord be enough? Mind you ill be doing a 2 color scheme. I would love to buy the stuff from Nils but not sure how broke I would be afterwards.


Your psu make should have a schematic giving you this info or a review of the psu should have it as well.

My FAQ on this forum will give you all the info you need on length. You wont be too broke if you order from Nils as long as you dont get click happy lol However and I am sure you know this Nils does not sell paracord, He sells PET.


----------



## MkO611

Yea i watched every vid i could find. I gave it another go and did what ya told me and still didnt get the paracord stick to the wire and into the connector :/
So i just gave up. I'm thinking of giving it another go after this semester's done
Anyways i did manage to mess up my cables caz i put them back in and now PC wont start lol
I'm thinking its the 24pin snice all the rest were the one's that i didnt tamper with.

Here's wht happaned
http://i.imgur.com/rOZHmhm.jpg?1

Getting this fixed thanks to audioholic!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MkO611*
> 
> Yea i watched every vid i could find. I gave it another go and did what ya told me and still didnt get the paracord stick to the wire and into the connector :/
> So i just gave up. I'm thinking of giving it another go after this semester's done
> Anyways i did manage to mess up my cables caz i put them back in and now PC wont start lol
> I'm thinking its the 24pin snice all the rest were the one's that i didnt tamper with.
> 
> Here's wht happaned
> http://i.imgur.com/rOZHmhm.jpg?1
> 
> Getting this fixed thanks to audioholic!


let me know when is a good time to skype on cam and I will help is audio doesnt get it pattened down


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Is it possible to sleeve fans and front panel connectors with 550 paracord?


----------



## pexon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Is it possible to sleeve fans and front panel connectors with 550 paracord?


Yup!


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Is it possible to sleeve fans and front panel connectors with 550 paracord?


I did it in one of my old builds, here's an example:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1320853/paracord-sleeved-fans-noctua-nf-f12-pwm#post_18470516


----------



## shadow water

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Is it possible to sleeve fans and front panel connectors with 550 paracord?



i did but i took off the ground casing


----------



## Vitaminx

This was a royal pain in the ass to sleeve. By the way, any thoughts about the size of the heatshrink used on the USB 3.0 Motherboard connector? I was wondering if I should have used a bit larger piece to ensure the cables are held tightly.

If anyone is wondering what was used:

TechFlex Cleancut 3/8" Sleeving
MDPC Big Heatshrink (3:1)
Krazy Glue

The glue was used to bond the sleeving the cable at the ends of the connectors. MDPC 3/8" sleeving did not fit over the connectors no matter what I tried. MDPC SATA heatshrink could not fit over the connectors even with all the stretching I did. It was just too much work for something like this. So I decided to use the glue to bond the sleeve to the cable and then the heatshrink really is just the finishing touch. It does shrink enough to bond to the connector and sleeving quite well.


----------



## banA9Ez06i

I got 100 feets 550 paracord from thebushcraftstore.


----------



## PCModderMike

I've been playing around with paracord myself, digging the results. Have yet to sleeve an entire PSU though.


----------



## Lutro0

Wisk! I made something for you!

First here is an update to the faq.

How Do I De-Pin My PSU Pins?
- How do I get the wires out of the connectors without damaging, what is the best tool?


Spoiler: Click to Expand



This question has been a long time coming and for a large part seems to be one of the hardest things for a sleever to get down. Everyone at one time seems to have a problem with this.

I want to say first off, that please please please! DO NOT waste your money on the de-pinning kits out there. While they all have the basic intentions right they all all not even comparable to the Original Molex Tool. The Original Molex Tool was made by Molex just for the removal of the ATX terminals we use. Its made of high tool quality metal and will last you a life time if you take care of it. Further more, there is only 3 tools you will ever need for de-pinning anything in your computer.

*1. The Original Molex Extractor - http://lutro0-customs.com/products/original-molex-extractor
2. A Round 4Pin Molex Extractor - http://lutro0-customs.com/products/round-4pin-extractor
3. A run of the mill exacto knife with a pointed tip. (the exacto knife is used to pull up any of the tap type connectors)*

That tool set will last you longer, make your jobs easier, and in the long run cost you less then any other tool on the market.

Before going any further I suggest you give a look at my MDPC Video Guide starting at time: 2:46 - this is where I show exactly how to use the tool and how to handle the problem wires. This is the best method for handling them. 




If you watch the video you will see that my Original Molex Tool is slightly tweaked to be wider then how they come originally - this is a tweak I do to help get the tool on the outside of the pin.



The instructions are simple:

1. Insert the Molex Tool making sure to have both prongs on the outside of the terminal on the inside.
2. Push the wire up into connector while pushing down on the tool to make sure its all the way in.
3. While makeing sure the tool is still all the way in pull out the wire. (sometimes you make need to pull with some force as some terminals dig into the connector as this is how the PSU maker has made them.

This method will ALWAYS work, sometimes you may need allot more pull force then you think you should need but as long as you keep the wire straight so your pulling force is straight out of the connector you will be fine. If you need to repeat the steps and try again.

Allot of people also ask how do I remove the male terminals from the male connectors. It is done exactly the same way.

1. Insert your Molex Tool the same direction as the wings on the terminal and from the front side push the tool in untill it falls into the grooves for de-pinning. This can be frustrating as you can see them while you do this - but you will feel when it goes in. It just takes a little moving around.
2. Pull out wire while tool is pushed in.

And lastly we will cover the Round 4pin Extractor.

The Round 4pin Extractor needs little explanation as you simple use the right end to put over the round pin and then pull it out.

I will cover the Exacto Knife in another section as it needs allot of pictures to fully explain. But the simple rule with the Knife is that if it has a tab slightly lift it and pull the wire out, and if it doesn't have a tab you need to push down on the top part of the metal pin exposed on the side and push down to slide the pin out with the knife. But I will show you how when I update next.



Then here is what I made for WISK


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Wisk! I made something for you!


Wait, where's my picture?


----------



## Callil

I have a quick question before jumping into my sleeving.

My gpu requires 4pin + 3pin power connectors, so two pins are left useless on the second 4pin. Am i fine to leave those pins out when reconnecting them all while sleeving?

Thanks!


----------



## shadow water

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callil*
> 
> I have a quick question before jumping into my sleeving.
> 
> My gpu requires 4pin + 3pin power connectors, so two pins are left useless on the second 4pin. Am i fine to leave those pins out when reconnecting them all while sleeving?
> 
> Thanks!


Do you mean 8pin and 6pin?


----------



## Callil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow water*
> 
> Do you mean 8pin and 6pin?


Oops, yeah.


----------



## shadow water

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callil*
> 
> Oops, yeah.


alright if thats the case and you dont have any need fin the extra 2 pins then you can cut them out and it wont hurt anything


----------



## Jwright0291

On the lutro0 sleeving tool, which notch do most of you guys prefer?


----------



## jfry94

My package arrived from lutro0, that chocolate bar made my day. cheers Mike

Sleeving will begin as soon as i can put my order in at mdpc for the heatshrink and b magic sleeve. I'm going to be sewing the cables together, then im going to shorten the non modular cable's so that they only just reach the back of the case and the connector will not be seen. My plan is to then make extensions that will go to the motherboard 24pin and the 8pin. Im also thinking of forming a blanking panel that will cover over the connections at the back.

The picture's still not that great but i am getting a decent camera soon as i need one because im going to gamescom in august.


----------



## CrazyCorky

If you're individually sleeving cables what is the point of using extensions?


----------



## jfry94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> If you're individually sleeving cables what is the point of using extensions?


most of the cables are to short, so i have to use extensions anyway.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> If you're individually sleeving cables what is the point of using extensions?


Lots of uses, for example you won't need to re-sleeve everything in case you'll use the same PSU with a different system in the future..


----------



## briddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Lots of uses, for example you won't need to re-sleeve everything in case you'll use the same PSU with a different system in the future..


If you are using a modular PSU, it doesn't matter. Can't you just reuse the cables you sleeved?


----------



## briddell

I have a few questions before I order all of my sleeve from MDPC-X.

First of all, I have already ordered my Molex pin remover, 150 crimps, and connectors from Lutr0Customs. All I need now is the sleeve. After much mental deliberation, I finally decided on getting the best; MDPC-X, rather than paracord. I will be sleeving my motherboard 24-pin, 8-pin PCIe, 6-pin PCIe, SATA data, SATA power, and front panel connectors, as well as my mouse and keyboard for poops and giggles. I am going to go with a triple color scheme, with a majority black, with a stripe dark grey, then a stripe of red on the very edge. For my sleeving job, I was going to order 50 meters of sleeve; 30 meters of black, 10 meters of "Shade 19", and 10 meters of red. Will 50 meters be enough for me to sleeve everything? I have also considered just getting the pack of 100m of black sleeve that Nils sells in bulk, but I really want a triple color scheme.

Will I be able to just solder my crimps on, or will I need a crimper for it to work properly? I have many, many years of experience with soldering, and it didn't feel right paying $50 for a simple crimper.

I am going to be sleeving a SeaSonic X 750; will I need to use the supplied connectors, or can I use the ones that I ordered from Lutr0?

Thanks for any insight - cheers,

Brennan


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> Will I be able to just solder my crimps on, or will I need a crimper for it to work properly? I have many, many years of experience with soldering, and it didn't feel right paying $50 for a simple crimper.


When you have a hammer, every problem looks like a nail? Crimps are for crimping, not for soldering


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> I have a few questions before I order all of my sleeve from MDPC-X.
> 
> First of all, I have already ordered my Molex pin remover, 150 crimps, and connectors from Lutr0Customs. All I need now is the sleeve. After much mental deliberation, I finally decided on getting the best; MDPC-X, rather than paracord. I will be sleeving my motherboard 24-pin, 8-pin PCIe, 6-pin PCIe, SATA data, SATA power, and front panel connectors, as well as my mouse and keyboard for poops and giggles. I am going to go with a triple color scheme, with a majority black, with a stripe dark grey, then a stripe of red on the very edge. For my sleeving job, I was going to order 50 meters of sleeve; 30 meters of black, 10 meters of "Shade 19", and 10 meters of red. Will 50 meters be enough for me to sleeve everything? I have also considered just getting the pack of 100m of black sleeve that Nils sells in bulk, but I really want a triple color scheme.
> 
> *Will I be able to just solder my crimps on, or will I need a crimper for it to work properly? I have many, many years of experience with soldering, and it didn't feel right paying $50 for a simple crimper*.
> 
> I am going to be sleeving a SeaSonic X 750; will I need to use the supplied connectors, or can I use the ones that I ordered from Lutr0?
> 
> Thanks for any insight - cheers,
> 
> Brennan


I did just this at first. But I found the problem with this was that once you started to melt the solder, the pin got so hot it melted the coating on the wire. And once you loose your strenght at its stress point it creates a fatigue point where the wire will be weak and eventually break. I did have some success with 18 Ga wire where it didnt melt the coating, but the ratio of bad/good ones wasnt good enough for me. So I bought the MDPC crimper with pins and havnt looked back. So much easier, quicker, and headache free.

One idea is to buy the crimper and then sell it here when your done. I know most OCN users will snatch one up, because I tried for a couple months(and lost out on a couple by mere minutes) before breaking down and buying one directly from Nils.

And just to note, my electrical soldering skills arnt the best, but I do have experience with plumbing soldering. Different beasts I know, but lets you get an idea of my skill level.

EDIT:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> _When you have a hammer, every problem looks like a nail?_ Crimps are for crimping, not for soldering


Lol that is great, I will have to remember that one for this guy I work with. He has the oldest tools I had ever seen and always wants to use a hammer and pliers to fix any/every thing


----------



## Jwright0291

So I tried to sleeve for the first time last night after getting my Lutro0 order in the mail.
I thought it went okay at first...

And then after I put the second one in, this happened...


HELP MEEEEEE


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jwright0291*
> 
> So I tried to sleeve for the first time last night after getting my Lutro0 order in the mail.
> I thought it went okay at first...
> And then after I put the second one in, this happened...
> 
> 
> HELP MEEEEEE


Heatshrink with paracord is difficult but looks like you haven't shrunk the headshrink down enough.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfry94*
> 
> My package arrived from lutro0, that chocolate bar made my day. cheers Mike
> 
> Sleeving will begin as soon as i can put my order in at mdpc for the heatshrink and b magic sleeve. I'm going to be sewing the cables together, then im going to shorten the non modular cable's so that they only just reach the back of the case and the connector will not be seen. My plan is to then make extensions that will go to the motherboard 24pin and the 8pin. Im also thinking of forming a blanking panel that will cover over the connections at the back.
> 
> The picture's still not that great but i am getting a decent camera soon as i need one because im going to gamescom in august.


Wait, where did the chocolate bar come from.... And I am glad you like everything! Cant wait to see what you do with it all.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> I have a few questions before I order all of my sleeve from MDPC-X.
> 
> First of all, I have already ordered my Molex pin remover, 150 crimps, and connectors from Lutr0Customs. All I need now is the sleeve. After much mental deliberation, I finally decided on getting the best; MDPC-X, rather than paracord. I will be sleeving my motherboard 24-pin, 8-pin PCIe, 6-pin PCIe, SATA data, SATA power, and front panel connectors, as well as my mouse and keyboard for poops and giggles. I am going to go with a triple color scheme, with a majority black, with a stripe dark grey, then a stripe of red on the very edge. For my sleeving job, I was going to order 50 meters of sleeve; 30 meters of black, 10 meters of "Shade 19", and 10 meters of red. Will 50 meters be enough for me to sleeve everything? I have also considered just getting the pack of 100m of black sleeve that Nils sells in bulk, but I really want a triple color scheme.
> 
> Will I be able to just solder my crimps on, or will I need a crimper for it to work properly? I have many, many years of experience with soldering, and it didn't feel right paying $50 for a simple crimper.
> 
> I am going to be sleeving a SeaSonic X 750; will I need to use the supplied connectors, or can I use the ones that I ordered from Lutr0?
> 
> Thanks for any insight - cheers,
> 
> Brennan


My connectors work just like the SS ones, just make sure you get the right ones.

Honestly - a good crimper is expensive yes, mine is 50 and nils is around 80 with crimps added. But how much is your time worth? You will go through your project so much faster and enjoy it alot more.
I am not saying any of this to get you to buy from me, I just know you will have a much easier time with a crimper. If you can spend 20 dollars, get one of the Hans Long Crimper from Frozen or Performance-pcs. They are not the best crimpers but if its between you soldering them or crimping then please get the crimper.

I am not trying to discourage you from trying something new or that you dont have good soldering skills. I just know you will have an easier time with a crimper.

If I have to rent one out to you I will. Let me know!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jwright0291*
> 
> So I tried to sleeve for the first time last night after getting my Lutro0 order in the mail.
> I thought it went okay at first...
> 
> HELP MEEEEEE


Its looking like the heatshrink is not being fully shrunk. It also helps to melt the tip of the paracord onto the wire first to give it some extra grab and then make sure to put your heatgun on it until its totally shrunk and even melted a bit if the sleeve underneath. If you are using a lighter - heat it up and wait a sec and then repeat so you dont burn the HS.

Also you may want to look into heatshrinkless as its easier IMO and those wires will never pull out if you use that method.

Watch the HS Style paracord sleeving guide again making sure to notice how long I hold the heatgun on it and then how gentle I am with them. Paracord and HS Style is not always the strongest just because of the type of material it is, so if you are not melting it under the HS it will slide or if you are rough with it, it will pull out.


----------



## nleksan

I am curious, when doing heatshrink-less paracord sleeving, what is the best way to do so when you aren't completely re-doing the wires? I ask because while my first MCP35X Pump turned out alright (actually pretty good IMHO







), I'd like my second one to look perfect. I have some MDPC-X crimpers, but I just really, really don't want to cut and crimp my pump wires :/

The two connectors, in case anyone doesn't know, are:
1x 4-Pin MOLEX with 2 Wires
1x 4-Pin PWM Fan with 2 Wires

I will be using Black Paracord. I have some heatshrink, but it's not great stuff (only 2:1) and I always end up ALMOST burning it (real men use lighters







)....


----------



## DirtyTrickster

All I have to say, is that god for over current protection!


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> I am curious, when doing heatshrink-less paracord sleeving, what is the best way to do so...


You could either void the warranty and open up the pumps and superglue the sleeve inside the pump housing (you'll need to file open the gap in the casing a bit) or superglue the paracord at the pump end and use heatshrink to tidy it up. Then just use the heatshrinkless 'tack' method at the molex pins but you'll need to use heatshrink on the fan connector. An extra piece of SATA shrink on the fan connector covering the bottom part of it and the normal heatshrink can look neat. Also change the housings for black ones.


----------



## goodtobeking

I just recently did my MCP35x2 about a week ago with paracord. I ended up shortening the wires because they give you so much that I didnt need. But instead of putting on Molex connectors, I put on some mini taminya connectors. Males and females, reason is because I cant stand the Molex 4 pin connectors for just 12v.

But as for sleeving. I had done it once before and I wasnt happy with the job. I did what you did and just put heatshrink on the wires where they come out of the pumps. It was fine at first but ended up pulling away from the pump and you could see the wires. I also indiviually sleeved the wires for the PWM/Tach sensor at first and didnt like it as well because it just didnt look right.

So I redid it and it came out perfect this time(as with everything with sleeving, practice makes perfect). What I did was took apart my pumps, and tucked the paracord just barely inside the housing so it couldnt come out and I didnt have to use heatshrink. But in order to do that I had to carve out a little plastic from the top housing where the wires go into to make enough room. Kinda scary sounding but worked perfectly(but also voided my warranty by taking apart my pump). Then I did the normal heatshrinkless method with the power cables and crimped on the mini tamiya connectors, which I had painted flat black. But as for the PWM/sensor cable, I sleeved both wires together and used MDPC sleeve to "stealth" the 4 pin fan connector(which I replaced with a black one) by shrinking partly on the connector and the rest on the paracord holding it in place.

Wish I would of taken some pictures when I was done. It turned out perfect IMO and I was very happy with it. After I did the first sleeving job on it I was disappointed.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> You could either void the warranty and open up the pumps and superglue the sleeve inside the pump housing (you'll need to file open the gap in the casing a bit) or superglue the paracord at the pump end and use heatshrink to tidy it up. Then just use the heatshrinkless 'tack' method at the molex pins but you'll need to use heatshrink on the fan connector. An extra piece of SATA shrink on the fan connector covering the bottom part of it and the normal heatshrink can look neat. Also change the housings for black ones.


Thanks for the info!

I was planning on picking up some black fan connectors next time I'm at Micro Center, as well as some 3:1 heatshrink.

I had considered the "one piece of HS over the connector", but with just two cables I am worried it won't look as good as the two small pieces that I actually managed to get around the cable? I guess the point is moot as I intend to do it heatshrink-less, but yeah...

Also, Super Glue is a great idea; I had so many problems with the HS not holding on this one (at the pump base; don't wish to take apart pumps until I get my MCP35X2 housing in) that I eventually just got the heatshrink warm again after pulling everything super-tight right up against the pump and then using a zip-tie and trimming off the excess. It doesn't look bad, and it's crazy strong, not to mention in an area no one will ever see, but it's still not PERFECT so it bothers me lol.

Thanks again! +REP

(Any other advice from any more of you cable sleeving mavericks is welcome







)


----------



## goodtobeking

Yeah I would prefer to do all heatshrinkless as well. But on fan connectors good luck. I found that the over the connector was by far the best looking. And it also held the paracord better than small pieces like that because they have nothing to grab a hold of. Although that might be the difference between cheap 2:1 HS(I originally got like 15+ feet from FTWPC) and quality 4:1 HS from MDPC. But to each their own.

Also since you stated that you might be going to MC, I also picked up some HS while I was there and before I made my order through MDPC. They have 3:1 HS with adhesive. I didnt realize it at first until I used it, but that stuff is really handy to have in case you have problems. My favorite use for that HS is when sleeving fans, I run paracord all the way to the hub where the wires are soldered in. I will cut a 3/16 inch piece and shrink it under where the sticker will be and when I put the sticker back down you cant see it. Heatstrinkless at its finest lol


----------



## nleksan

Awesome tip!

I see you and I visit the same Micro Center, so thanks for the inventory notice


----------



## TeamBlue

I decided to try out a different method of doing heatshrinkless paracord on fans... Turned out pretty well. I just used about 1.25x the cable length of paracord so it gets fatter, put the connector back on and the sleeve tries to get back to its normal size, which forces it to the end ot the wire on both sides. Melt the ends so they sit properly on the back of the connector, and you're set! I'll put a pic or two up in a bit.


----------



## Noskcaj

Since i failed at removing pins to sleeve, i've had some interesting ideas as to how to use it all.
1. sleeve EL wire. i've only tried this with a semi transparent sleeve (moddiy gold) but it looks incredible.
2. sleeve zip ties, a pain to do, but looks cool
3. sleeve anti-kink wrap for WC loops. this will only work with paracord or shoelaces. normal sleeve it to hard to put on.


----------



## Jwright0291

So I tried out the heatshrinkless method for my first time and it turned out a whole lot better than when I tried to use heatshrink..


----------



## CrazyCorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jwright0291*
> 
> So I tried out the heatshrinkless method for my first time and it turned out a whole lot better than when I tried to use heatshrink..


Looks awesome! Hope mine turns out when I get that far!!


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Awesome tip!
> 
> I see you and I visit the same Micro Center, so thanks for the inventory notice


Small world after all. Some amazing weather we are having right??

I took some pictures of my setup to show you guys, and gals, what I did with my MCP35x2.


Heres an overall look from the front after I remove my GPU cables. *draining the water out of my system


Without the reservoir in the way, can see how I mounted it in there directly to the case. HS on the back has just enough room to be efficient without a fan


Great shot of the sleeving I was talking about. Not sure why the paracord cables look slightly off, but they are all the same piece cut. Look the same when in normal light. Also can see a thin temp probe I put between the HS and thermal pad so I can monitor its temperature with my Aquaero. Just for the giggles


And heres where I supply the power to it. I made my own connector with an old 8 pin extension. Split the 3 + lines with 3 - lines and hooked them into mini tamiya connectors. The third line(bottom of picture with MDPC sleeving) is a splitter to power my PWM fans and my CCFL for my T-Virus reservoir. I did it this way because I wasnt using those wires and didnt want to void my warranty.


This final picture is an overal view of the rig before I tore it down. You can see what I did with the PCIe cables, again I did it this way to avoid voiding my warranty. Also going to redo the 24 pin extension. Is ~6 inches now, going to need it to be ~12 inches long and with an angle at the end.

Sidenote: anyone know where to get one of these?? Directly from swiftech is the only place I can find it(separate from the WC kits), and they want more that what its worth to ship it.


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> If you are using a modular PSU, it doesn't matter. Can't you just reuse the cables you sleeved?


You really didn't get my point..


----------



## pexon

More sleeving from today, for the Parvum systems dudes....


----------



## adi518

Beautiful work.


----------



## banA9Ez06i

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jwright0291*
> 
> So I tried out the heatshrinkless method for my first time and it turned out a whole lot better than when I tried to use heatshrink..


Also, first time paracord heat-shrink free, I used the tools from pccablesleeving.com


----------



## pexon

More goodies from today yo!


----------



## TeamBlue

Anybody here have some mdpc acid green? I really would like to get a piece in hand to see how it matches for my next build. I know the colors are supposedly accurate on the website, but sometimes it's just better to have it in front of you. Don't want to make a big order and be mad about the color afterwards.


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Anybody here have some mdpc acid green? I really would like to get a piece in hand to see how it matches for my next build. I know the colors are supposedly accurate on the website, but sometimes it's just better to have it in front of you. Don't want to make a big order and be mad about the color afterwards.


if it's not, you can use black cable sleeve for everything then sleeve green EL wire.


----------



## KoSoVaR^

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*
> 
> More goodies from today yo!


REMOVE THE ZIP-TIES !!!!!


----------



## pexon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoSoVaR^*
> 
> REMOVE THE ZIP-TIES !!!!!


Its only to keep them tidy for shipping -


----------



## TheNovice

First attempt of sleeving


----------



## MrYakuZa

PCI-EX 6+2 ( x3 ) // 12 ATX ( x2 ) // 24 ATX.


----------



## Vitaminx

What exactly would be the secret to getting the perfect sleeve length for the cable you are going to sleeve? Do you guys pull the cable taught and measure it then stretch the sleeve and measure it, and there you go? Or is there another approach that works a bit better?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> I just recently did my MCP35x2 about a week ago with paracord. I ended up shortening the wires because they give you so much that I didnt need. But instead of putting on Molex connectors, I put on some mini taminya connectors. Males and females, reason is because I cant stand the Molex 4 pin connectors for just 12v.
> 
> But as for sleeving. I had done it once before and I wasnt happy with the job. I did what you did and just put heatshrink on the wires where they come out of the pumps. It was fine at first but ended up pulling away from the pump and you could see the wires. I also indiviually sleeved the wires for the PWM/Tach sensor at first and didnt like it as well because it just didnt look right.
> 
> So I redid it and it came out perfect this time(as with everything with sleeving, practice makes perfect). What I did was took apart my pumps, and tucked the paracord just barely inside the housing so it couldnt come out and I didnt have to use heatshrink. But in order to do that I had to carve out a little plastic from the top housing where the wires go into to make enough room. Kinda scary sounding but worked perfectly(but also voided my warranty by taking apart my pump). Then I did the normal heatshrinkless method with the power cables and crimped on the mini tamiya connectors, which I had painted flat black. But as for the PWM/sensor cable, I sleeved both wires together and used MDPC sleeve to "stealth" the 4 pin fan connector(which I replaced with a black one) by shrinking partly on the connector and the rest on the paracord holding it in place.
> 
> Wish I would of taken some pictures when I was done. It turned out perfect IMO and I was very happy with it. After I did the first sleeving job on it I was disappointed.


I have (had) my dual MCP35x pumps rewired and use a single mini tamiya connector for power. (one of my pumps died and I'm waiting on the replacement). Actually I built a harness with female mini tamiya connectors behind the motherboard tray on my rig and wired up the pumps a few months ago.
Like you I despise the huge 4 pin Molex and when I can sub something smaller like the mini tamiya I do.

I cut the long wires to the pumps and combined the pwm wires and picked up the rpm wire from one of the pumps to pin to a 4 pin female connector for the Aquaero, and I combined the power wiring to the mini tamiya connector.


----------



## adi518

I really like that.


----------



## audioholic

Hey guys, just some sleeving I am doing for Mk0611. Next I have to do the 24 pin and get this stuff sent back to him...I am really liking the color scheme on here


----------



## banA9Ez06i

*MrYakuZa* awesome
*audioholic* nice colors


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> I really like that.


Thanks, I get to do it all over again whenever Swiftech gets my replacement pump to me.


----------



## MkO611

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Hey guys, just some sleeving I am doing for Mk0611. Next I have to do the 24 pin and get this stuff sent back to him...I am really liking the color scheme on here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sweet man. It's looking good for sure


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I have (had) my dual MCP35x pumps rewired and use a single mini tamiya connector for power. (one of my pumps died and I'm waiting on the replacement). Actually I built a harness with female mini tamiya connectors behind the motherboard tray on my rig and wired up the pumps a few months ago.
> Like you I despise the huge 4 pin Molex and when I can sub something smaller like the mini tamiya I do.
> 
> I cut the long wires to the pumps and combined the pwm wires and picked up the rpm wire from one of the pumps to pin to a 4 pin female connector for the Aquaero, and I combined the power wiring to the mini tamiya connector.
> *snip*


Nice. I thought about splicing the wires together, but decided against it. After seeing yours I am kinda regretting it lol. How did you build a harness for the female mini tamiya connectors, and have any pics?? I looked all over for something like that when I was trying to figure out how to keep it all clean.

I also thought about wiring the two pumps power into a corsair 6 pin connector and plugging them directly into my PSU, but couldnt go heatshrinkless because they only have one 12v lead.

So did they RMA your pump even after you sleeved it and shorten the cables?? If so that would be awesome.


----------



## Jwright0291

When using paracord heatshrinkless, what do you guys do when you melt the end? I've been pinching it but have found that sometimes they do not like to fit in the connector this way.


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jwright0291*
> 
> When using paracord heatshrinkless, what do you guys do when you melt the end? I've been pinching it but have found that sometimes they do not like to fit in the connector this way.


You have to get the paracord really tight. And then just barely melt the ends. Some colors(white and some others) are a little bigger than say black or blue. But if you still cannot get it then melt the sides a little bit and then pinch. You can kind of control the shape of the paracord this way to make it fit


----------



## Jwright0291

Then I better watch some videos on getting the correct length. After I stretch then cut, then put it on and re stretch, I always seem to have too much.


----------



## Belial

I was wondering, what paracord do you think would better match the blue of a z77x-ud5h (z77x-d3h, z77x-ud3h, etc). Royal blue? Electric blue? Colonial blue?

I can't exactly tell. I feel like colonial blue might be the closest. So many blues!


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jwright0291*
> 
> Then I better watch some videos on getting the correct length. After I stretch then cut, then put it on and re stretch, I always seem to have too much.


To much is ok....but what you do is you want to do one end first. So get your paracord where you want on the pin, then sort of pull the opposite way on it to make it tight at that end. You will see how much smaller it gets. That is when you melt it a little. Then you just do the same with the other end. Now if you have so much slack you can cover the other pin completely that is no good. I to sometime have way to much. Just take your cutters and cut it. The nice thing about paracord is that is it easy to hide mistakes.








To measure I just grab one end and stretch the paracord along the wire fairly tight but not very tight. Paracord does not really show the difference between extra and tight as much as plastic type sleeving does. Hope this helps!


----------



## Jwright0291

I'll give it a shot. Thank you!


----------



## stefan787

he guys
i going to sleeving my xfx pro 550W power spuly.
but i dont know a good loek.


sorry for the bad english, am a Dutchman


----------



## jfry94

Good news I finaly got my order in with nils for 40m of blue magic small sleeved and 5m of black heatshrink.


----------



## longroadtrip

Congrats jfry! Blue magic is a great color!


----------



## jfry94

It should go really nice with the white and grey that lutro0 sent me and also with the leds on my gtx 680 lightning.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfry94*
> 
> It should go really nice with the white and grey that lutro0 sent me and also with the leds on my gtx 680 lightning.


That will be a really nice color combo...


----------



## jfry94

Once ive sleeved all of my cable's im going to sew them, and im also thinking about modding my case's cable routing holes just so the 24pin can go directly into a hole instead of being angled down slightly before it connects with the mb.


----------



## longroadtrip

Looking forward to seeing a build log!







That should look great!

This build log has pretty similar colors..you might like it...


----------



## jfry94

I actually have a build log/mod log on here but i only have a motorola razr i to take picture's with for the time being.









Here's my log http://www.overclock.net/t/1330008/project-arctic-storm/0_100

Im using one this pattern. 

I saw a case on here a few weeks ago that inspired me to do cable routing that is perfectly straight throughout the whole case, i cant remember the owners name though.

That animus build looks awsome that vinyl work.


----------



## longroadtrip

Just took a gander...looks like you are off to a nice start!


----------



## jfry94

Cheers.
For a first build it isnt bad but it still has a long way to go.


----------



## banA9Ez06i

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stefan787*


do as painted


----------



## audioholic

Here is a little update on the sleeving i am doing for MK0611.


Really hoping I can get this done tonight..got to get the double wires done







Kind of a weird pattern I know, but I am low on blue and that is the the one color I dont have downstairs


----------



## Belial

^ *WHAT BLUE ARE YOU USING?*


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> ^ *WHAT BLUE ARE YOU USING?*


I'm not sure where he got it from


----------



## Belial

I just want to know what blue paracord would go best with a gigabyte z77 blue board ud3h/ud5h ;/

no one in this thread ever says exactly what blue they are using, or what color they are using, so all the posts in here are useless and impossible to duplicate because you have no idea what color anyone used.

i messaged lutro about buying sleeving from him but he never responded either.


----------



## CrazyCorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I just want to know what blue paracord would go best with a gigabyte z77 blue board ud3h/ud5h ;/
> 
> no one in this thread ever says exactly what blue they are using, or what color they are using, so all the posts in here are useless and impossible to duplicate because you have no idea what color anyone used.
> 
> i messaged lutro about buying sleeving from him but he never responded either.


Lutro0 can be hard to get a hold of some times.


----------



## audioholic

Oh I understand what you mean! Give me a minute and Ill give you the link to the seller.








Ok here are the links to the sellers
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290800692820?var=590085731848&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140907449493
And the blue is royal blue


----------



## Belial

wow rep. thanks, that royal blue really looks too dark for the z77x-ud5h, i thought that was maybe electric blue.

i was just about to go and buy royal blue too.

There's some ebay seller I'm checking out right now, he sells paracorded pci-e 6 pin extensions for like $7. Given that a plain pci-e extension, unsleeved, that I'd have to buy and then sleeve myself, get the paracord, and paracord tool (both of which are just like $5, so not much), it might be cheaper for me to get the extensions (24 pin, 2x pci 6 pin) pre-sleeved with the paracord color of my choice.

just not sure which blue would go best.


----------



## audioholic

The royal blue is pretty dark. I would give electric blue a shot







I think that would fit your motherboard better


----------



## Belial

i thought electric blue was darker. isn't that what all the people are using for the msi boards? the black/blue jobs in here?


----------



## audioholic

Here check this link....there are a bunch of blues








They are pretty accurate too.
Clicky


----------



## Belial

I don't think there is a 'blue' paracord, i dont think the labels are all there on that. I messaged that ebay guy who does custom sleeving, he said he'd send me a few samples of blue and i can choose from that so that'll keep things simple. i mean im all for buying my own paracord and tool and doing it myself but i think it'd actually be the same cost, maybe cheaper, to just get them custom sleeved by the guy.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I just want to know what blue paracord would go best with a gigabyte z77 blue board ud3h/ud5h ;/
> 
> no one in this thread ever says exactly what blue they are using, or what color they are using, so all the posts in here are useless and impossible to duplicate because you have no idea what color anyone used.
> 
> i messaged lutro about buying sleeving from him but he never responded either.


Sorry to have missed your msg bud. get ahold of me sometime today and I will give you the run down on them if you like.


----------



## pexon

PSU for the dudes @ Parvum Systems ready to go!


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*
> 
> PSU for the dudes @ Parvum Systems ready to go!


Looks great, shame about the blue on the connectors, I'd of been tempted to swap those out.


----------



## pexon

There are blue terminals physically hard-wired onto the PSU too, so it would only half work anyway.


----------



## Noskcaj

i can't get the modular cables on my modxtream to come out, i think i will just cut them and try and re-use the pins.


----------



## Belial

So I'm considering either sleeving some extensions (24 pin, 2x6 pci pin, 8 pin) in blue (thinking either light blue or colonial blue is closest to the color of z77x-ud5h).

Is it hard to sleeve, to do it well? You just make one side slightly tighter to get a bend in it right? I love the heatshrinkless paracord look.

Basically, it seems like it'd be $20 more expensive to get it done by someone else than do it myself (account for tools and paracord). I kinda want to do it myself, I think I'd rather enjoy that, but I just wondered if it was particularly frustrating or hard to do before I made a decision. How much would I need for just these 4 extensions? I don't want to sleeve the whole psu.

It seems the cheapest places to get extensions is:
24pin $4.97
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250929502493?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
2 x 6pin pci-e 5.98
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119484
8pin cpu $3.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119486

50 feet paracord $5.95
http://www.ebay.com/itm/550-Paracord-Mil-Spec-Type-III-7-strand-parachute-cord-10-25-50-100-ft-/271102915718?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=570126443851&hash=item3f1efe3486

pin remover $5.74
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tool-ATX-Pin-Remover-5-/271171354960?pt=US_Computer_Case_Accessories_Tool_Kits&hash=item3f23128150

$26.63


----------



## 0volume0

Some of my work, hope you'll like it...


----------



## audioholic

LOOKS AWESOME! I love Nils handwriting!


----------



## Belial

Has anyone used light blue for paracord sleeving? Lutro said he thinks light blue would look best to match my z77x-ud5h. I think colonial blue might be better. I really can't tell, flash and internet pics literally make one color look good and then look bad the next time. I mean I was dead set on royal blue, but i saw royal blue in person today at a surplus store and it was way too dark. Im worried that light blue might be too light or too torquise, but i cant tell.


----------



## Jwright0291

I would go light blue. But I'm sure either will look great.


----------



## longroadtrip

Light, royal, dark, or any other blue (or any color really) can and most likely will be different between vendors and production runs. What is "colonial blue" with one vendor may be named something else with another...same with light, dark, royal, etc...find your vendor and then get as close as you can to the color you want.


----------



## Belial

that's so stupid. okay i'll check out a local military surplus.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> that's so stupid. okay i'll check out a local military surplus.


If you're not dead set on using paracord, MDPC has two different blues that work pretty good with the UD5H. I'm using B-magic but the Aquamarine could be a good fit. Maybe you could match one of these colors to paracord somewhere if you like them.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Has anyone used light blue for paracord sleeving? Lutro said he thinks light blue would look best to match my z77x-ud5h. I think colonial blue might be better. I really can't tell, flash and internet pics literally make one color look good and then look bad the next time. I mean I was dead set on royal blue, but i saw royal blue in person today at a surplus store and it was way too dark. Im worried that light blue might be too light or too torquise, but i cant tell.


The problem is that different manufacturers have different colors that are sold by the same name. I would check out paracordplanet.com, look at their color chart. My pick for you is 100% Colonial Blue. None of the other colors come close to matching. Click here to see why. You can have that guy do modular sets for basically any psu, I know he has the pinout for ax series, otherwise extensions. I have purchased from him in the past, very good quality if you don't want to do it yourself.


----------



## Belial

^ Ha, I'm talking to him. His motherboard atx extension is a bit expensive though.
Quote:


> If you're not dead set on using paracord, MDPC has two different blues that work pretty good with the UD5H. I'm using B-magic but the Aquamarine could be a good fit. Maybe you could match one of these colors to paracord somewhere if you like them.


Paracord looks so much better though, it seems. I mean it seems as close as you can get for someone knitting you sleeving. Thanks though.

Think I'm going to buy the paracord here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/550-Paracord-Mil-Spec-Type-III-7-strand-parachute-cord-10-25-50-100-ft-/271102915718?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=570126443851&hash=item3f1efe3486


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> ^ Ha, I'm talking to him. His motherboard atx extension is a bit expensive though.
> Paracord looks so much better though, it seems. I mean it seems as close as you can get for someone knitting you sleeving. Thanks though.
> 
> Think I'm going to buy the paracord here:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/550-Paracord-Mil-Spec-Type-III-7-strand-parachute-cord-10-25-50-100-ft-/271102915718?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=570126443851&hash=item3f1efe3486


The difference between buying something that somebody else made and doing it yourself is huge. It's a real sense of accomplishment, plus you are your own quality control, which is nice.


----------



## Belial

Just need to find the right place to buy paracord. He actually sent me a few samples to check for color, but i hadn't seen his motherboard atx price at the time. His prices for the pci/cpu are very good, I would have bought from him if his motherboard cable was $10 or less.


----------



## longroadtrip

$21.27 shipped for a 24 pin cable sleeved? That's too much???







I find it to be completely reasonable if not cheaply priced based on the amount of time it takes to make one...Alchemy cables (lousy) $12, Corsair (lousy) $20, Max Finder $20, plus shipping on all of those...

Think about it..it's basically 3 8 pin cables (that he sells for something like 9 bucks)


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> $21.27 shipped for a 24 pin cable sleeved? That's too much???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find it to be completely reasonable if not cheaply priced based on the amount of time it takes to make one...Alchemy cables (lousy) $12, Corsair (lousy) $20, Max Finder $20, plus shipping on all of those...
> 
> Think about it..it's basically 3 8 pin cables (that he sells for something like 9 bucks)


this!


----------



## pexon




----------



## airplaneman

WOW! pexon set the bar pretty high...

My pictures just don't compete, but I think the sleeving job is okay







.


----------



## Belial

So what's up with that rainbow effect, the 'training' of it? How hard is all of that? Is that even necessary? I mean you are just making one side slightly shorter paracord than the other so there's more tension a certain way, and then you just do a ton of bending and flexing of the cable once it's sleeved, right? How hard is that for a first timer good with his hands?


----------



## longroadtrip

The wiring is also a bit shorter...that is also done with sleeving and not paracord.


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> So what's up with that rainbow effect, the 'training' of it? How hard is all of that? Is that even necessary? I mean you are just making one side slightly shorter paracord than the other so there's more tension a certain way, and then you just do a ton of bending and flexing of the cable once it's sleeved, right? How hard is that for a first timer good with his hands?


For pexon's cables, it appears that the inside row is shorter than the outside, which helps it curve like that. You do not need to do this to get your cables to look good, but it is the best way to do it. If you use plastic sleeving you can stretch it out, and the tension will help train the cables. That is what most people, including myself, do.

If you cut all your cables the same length, when you go to make a bend, some cables will be harder to manage because they have less distance to go, and therefore have more excess to deal with. It's not really a huge problem for most people, since you can make your cables neat on the front, then around the back use a zip-tie to hold them in place, out of sight.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> So what's up with that rainbow effect, the 'training' of it? How hard is all of that? Is that even necessary? I mean you are just making one side slightly shorter paracord than the other so there's more tension a certain way, and then you just do a ton of bending and flexing of the cable once it's sleeved, right? How hard is that for a first timer good with his hands?


Make the outside row about 2mm longer than the inside row. This will give you the rainbow effect. Also if you use new wire off the spool you can use the wire's natural curve to help you out with the rainbow. Honestly it only really matters if you're doing extensions, and you can train paracorded cables too. You have to pull the paracord suuuuuper tight when you're doing it, but it can be done.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> So I'm considering either sleeving some extensions (24 pin, 2x6 pci pin, 8 pin) in blue (thinking either light blue or colonial blue is closest to the color of z77x-ud5h).
> 
> Is it hard to sleeve, to do it well? You just make one side slightly tighter to get a bend in it right? I love the heatshrinkless paracord look.
> 
> Basically, it seems like it'd be $20 more expensive to get it done by someone else than do it myself (account for tools and paracord). I kinda want to do it myself, I think I'd rather enjoy that, but I just wondered if it was particularly frustrating or hard to do before I made a decision. How much would I need for just these 4 extensions? I don't want to sleeve the whole psu.
> 
> It seems the cheapest places to get extensions is:
> 24pin $4.97
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/250929502493?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> 2 x 6pin pci-e 5.98
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119484
> 8pin cpu $3.99
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119486
> 
> 50 feet paracord $5.95
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/550-Paracord-Mil-Spec-Type-III-7-strand-parachute-cord-10-25-50-100-ft-/271102915718?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=570126443851&hash=item3f1efe3486
> 
> pin remover $5.74
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tool-ATX-Pin-Remover-5-/271171354960?pt=US_Computer_Case_Accessories_Tool_Kits&hash=item3f23128150
> 
> $26.63


PLEASE be careful of buying extensions from ebay. I have seen 20 guage wire and lots of melting with those from people. Quality is scary when you get factory made extensions.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Make the outside row about 2mm longer than the inside row. This will give you the rainbow effect. Also if you use new wire off the spool you can use the wire's natural curve to help you out with the rainbow. Honestly it only really matters if you're doing extensions, and you can train paracorded cables too. You have to pull the paracord suuuuuper tight when you're doing it, but it can be done.


+1 however the inside row depends on the length of the cable itself and the bend you want on it.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> PLEASE be careful of buying extensions from ebay. I have seen 20 guage wire and lots of melting with those from people. Quality is scary when you get factory made extensions.


Well the PCI/CPU are rosewill sleeved extensions, they had them cheaper than anywhere else, and the 24 pin is apevia so that's name brand (if oem). I'll make sure it's 18awg.

Couldn't get the paracord from your store because of $50 minimum purchase, so I'll be buying it from linked ebay store once i take a look, in person, at a few blues, to make sure i get the color i want.


----------



## D0U8L3M

So after many years of reading guides and learning from this forum Ive started my own personal system.

The following pictures are my first time sleeving, so any advice on how i could improve would be great =D

I made a jig based on one that Lutro0 had made to cut heatshrink and my dad wanted to improve it so he added the "guillotine" as he likes to call it lol


I ended up buying really lousy heatshrink because I didnt have the cash to get the MDPC heatshrink at the time and figured i could use a smaller diameter 2:1 heatshrink...but as you can see it wouldnt hold the sleeving tight enough =[



So i figured id forget about the heatshrink look and try the heatshrinkless meathod (since that's the only use my lousy heatshrink really had at this point)


And here are my final results so far X3 i still need to "train" the cables


----------



## audioholic

well worth the mistake if you ask me! Looks great!


----------



## airplaneman

IMO heatshrinkless is the way to go, but you still need to buy heatshrink to do a proper heatshrinkless job, which is ironic lol.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Well the PCI/CPU are rosewill sleeved extensions, they had them cheaper than anywhere else, and the 24 pin is apevia so that's name brand (if oem). I'll make sure it's 18awg.
> 
> Couldn't get the paracord from your store because of $50 minimum purchase, so I'll be buying it from linked ebay store once i take a look, in person, at a few blues, to make sure i get the color i want.


The min is $35 - should not be $50.

And there has to be a min as each package takes a while to pack.


----------



## yanks8981

I am curious what everyone uses for wiring. I have some of this in 16 and 18 gauge

http://www.bulkwire.com/wire-cable/stranded-hookup-wire-300v-ul-1007-1569.html

I only plan to create wires for my 8 pin and my sata. Is it OK to use the same gauge as what comes with the PSU since I am making longer cables (in the instance of the CPU cable at least)?


----------



## D0U8L3M

I had no idea how much SATA power cables suck to sleeve...here are my results. Its not the prettiest of jobs but it will work. Most of the connecting ends will be hidden anyways ;D


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Is there a way of sleeving with MDPC heatshrinklessly without having to use heatshrink to achieve it? In lutro0s video he uses heatshrink and then cuts it off, what happens if you don't use the heatshrink and you just melt it as you would with paracord?

cheers


----------



## audioholic

I dont think that it would turn out right...it would not compress the sleeve ends to make it fit. It would just melt and get nasty.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> I dont think that it would turn out right...it would not compress the sleeve ends to make it fit. It would just melt and get nasty.


thanks


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Is there a way of sleeving with MDPC heatshrinklessly without having to use heatshrink to achieve it? In lutro0s video he uses heatshrink and then cuts it off, what happens if you don't use the heatshrink and you just melt it as you would with paracord?
> 
> cheers


you can melt both paracord or mdpc sleeving without heat shrink on the female connector, but you will need heat shrink for the for the male side. believe me, i tried, and it does not hold well.


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Is there a way of sleeving with MDPC heatshrinklessly without having to use heatshrink to achieve it? In lutro0s video he uses heatshrink and then cuts it off, what happens if you don't use the heatshrink and you just melt it as you would with paracord?
> 
> cheers


The heatshrink is what actually forces the sleeve strands to melt to eachother. If you just hold the lighter to the sleeve, each little plastic strand will melt and burn back individually, and it will never actually fuse together. It basically frays. The heatshrink is what makes it bond, and holds it in place while you're melting it. It takes quite a while for the sleeve to actually melt together.

I've only done this with plastic MDPC sleeve, mind you, but I imagine paracord behaves similarly.


----------



## D0U8L3M

Is it me or am i in a picture posting mood today XD

So far im enjoying sleeving here is my first custom SATA power cable =D (not perfect but im dam proud of it for my first time X3 )


----------



## shadow water

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airplaneman*
> 
> The heatshrink is what actually forces the sleeve strands to melt to eachother. If you just hold the lighter to the sleeve, each little plastic strand will melt and burn back individually, and it will never actually fuse together. It basically frays. The heatshrink is what makes it bond, and holds it in place while you're melting it. It takes quite a while for the sleeve to actually melt together.
> 
> I've only done this with plastic MDPC sleeve, mind you, but I imagine paracord behaves similarly.


Paracord acts completely different. You can melt the strands together into the pin and form it with your fingers there is 0 heatshrink needed


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D0U8L3M*


I like this.









Have been working myself of a way to have the sleeve appear continuous through these pass-through connectors. This was my first attempt, couple months ago, but it didn't come out so well as I hoped, and the 12V line came loose. Tried all kinds of things since then, with different sizes of wire and different ways of melting the sleeve onto the wire.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Is there a way of sleeving with MDPC heatshrinklessly without having to use heatshrink to achieve it? In lutro0s video he uses heatshrink and then cuts it off, what happens if you don't use the heatshrink and you just melt it as you would with paracord?
> 
> cheers


Any plastic type will start fraying, if you get on it really quick (or have calloused finger tips like I do you can make it work) but honestly the heatshrink creates a weld that is perfect for plastic type sleeving.

But you should not need it for paracord as its a multifilament sleeving and will just melt together.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have been working myself of a way to have the sleeve appear continuous through these pass-through connectors. This was my first attempt, couple months ago, but it didn't come out so well as I hoped, and the 12V line came loose. Tried all kinds of things since then, with different sizes of wire and different ways of melting the sleeve onto the wire.


I love the fact that people are getting this down. I have always loved the HS look on the sata power cables, but anyone who has ever done it knows how much work goes into doing it.

I wanted to do a video on it, however I dont like doing a video where you have to say results might vary lol.

Good job to everyone showing off the awesome sleeve work.

Wisk, would you mind making a picture tut or video tut? Send me a PM and I can at least get you started in the right direction with supplies and such as I know what works, just no time to make the tut right now.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Wisk, would you mind making a picture tut or video tut?


I'm not quite there yet. I need to find a repeatable consistant method that does not depend on: having to measure sleeve exactly; how strong your super glue is; how hot your lighter burns; etc.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I'm not quite there yet. I need to find a repeatable consistant method that does not depend on: having to measure sleeve exactly; how strong your super glue is; how hot your lighter burns; etc.


Oh I hear ya, let me know if I can do anything to help.


----------



## audioholic

All these photos are so inspirational! I can't wait to do my cables!


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow water*
> 
> Paracord acts completely different. You can melt the strands together into the pin and form it with your fingers there is 0 heatshrink needed


I'm curious, can anyone post a video of this? I would like to see how this works.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airplaneman*
> 
> I'm curious, can anyone post a video of this? I would like to see how this works.


Lutro0's 



 from the *Video Sleeving Guides*


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Lutro0's
> 
> 
> 
> from the *Video Sleeving Guides*


Oh wow. I watched another one of his videos and he used heatshrink to do it, then cut it off.

Thanks!


----------



## D0U8L3M

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I'm not quite there yet. I need to find a repeatable consistant method that does not depend on: having to measure sleeve exactly; how strong your super glue is; how hot your lighter burns; etc.


The way i did mine was to actually use 1/8 heatshrink and heatshrink the wire between the connectors with nothing on it. This makes the wire a bit thicker and the heatskrink is rubber so it holds on to the sleeve better.

I also used a dab of super glue on some and it stuck better with the heat shrinked wire.


----------



## WiSK

That's an interesting idea DoubleM


----------



## KoSoVaR^

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNovice*
> 
> First attempt of sleeving


I wanna see moooooore







!
buildlog ?


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Me too. That sleeving/fan combo is amazing.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D0U8L3M*
> 
> The way i did mine was to actually use 1/8 heatshrink and heatshrink the wire between the connectors with nothing on it. This makes the wire a bit thicker and the heatskrink is rubber so it holds on to the sleeve better.
> 
> I also used a dab of super glue on some and it stuck better with the heat shrinked wire.


Super glue is such a life saver in so many circumstances you cant always depend on it but to toughen up something or make thing that normally wouldnt work work its awesome.

I always suggest getting the superglue with the brush so you have more control.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0volume0*
> 
> Some of my work, hope you'll like it...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -snip-


Keep up the good work bud, heatshrink work is hard it looks like you did a great job!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*
> 
> -snip-
> 
> great work


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airplaneman*
> 
> WOW! pexon set the bar pretty high...
> 
> My pictures just don't compete, but I think the sleeving job is okay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> -snip-
> You did a great job keep it up! Dont ever compare your work with other, be proud of what you have done!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> So what's up with that rainbow effect, the 'training' of it? How hard is all of that? Is that even necessary? I mean you are just making one side slightly shorter paracord than the other so there's more tension a certain way, and then you just do a ton of bending and flexing of the cable once it's sleeved, right? How hard is that for a first timer good with his hands?


I made a section in the sleeving faq on just how to do this, there is a combo of many different factors that come into this, but for the best result the only way is to shorten the oem cables and add extensions to get that perfect clean look, or rely upon sleeving combs. Give it a read, IMO if you put all that work into sleeving and then leave it a mess you kinda wasted that time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Here is a little update on the sleeving i am doing for MK0611.
> -snip-
> 
> Really hoping I can get this done tonight..got to get the double wires done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of a weird pattern I know, but I am low on blue and that is the the one color I dont have downstairs


Good job!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Lutro0's
> 
> 
> 
> from the *Video Sleeving Guides*


Lots of good info in those, even if they dont apply directly to what you are trying to accomplish I go over allot of small details that should get you going in the right direction.


----------



## geort45

Heatshrinkless sata-power testing


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Heatshrinkless sata-power testing


You forcing it in? Some heat used? Looks damaged, but it's an interesting experiment and result.


----------



## geort45

I'm not forcing the whole sleeve, I made some cutouts to it to make it fit







, however I burned the sleeve a little bit more so a little fraying shows. However the cap does bend a little, it seems WiSK solved this by filing some arcs in the cap, right?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> I'm not forcing the whole sleeve, I made some cutouts to it to make it fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , however I burned the sleeve a little bit more so a little fraying shows. However the cap does bend a little, it seems WiSK solved this by filing some arcs in the cap, right?


I did try filing the little sticky-out pieces yes, but it's not really necessary I think.

I also tried like you with cutouts, by heating my wire cutter, but it didn't work as well as I hoped


----------



## pexon

Another PSU I have been working on recently


----------



## WiSK

Jolly nice Pexon


----------



## longroadtrip

Nice work Pexon!


----------



## pexon

Thanks dudes! The Seasonic and Corsair PSUs are a nightmare, so many double cables!


----------



## longroadtrip

I was noticing how nice of a job you did on the double wires (they are an absolutely horrible nightmare to do!)...Excellent work!


----------



## pexon

Its not the best job, but they are on there solid. Adhesive lined shrink is a god send.


----------



## ubernub

Hi guys. I'm fairly new to PC modding and sleeving.

Here's what I've come up during my practice runs. These aren't installed on any PC.
I just wanted to learn the ropes so just played around. I don't have fresh ideas so I just pulled some inspiration from NBA.

Again I just started this sleeving stuff so please forgive the imperfections.


----------



## Jwright0291

I like that last one a lot.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

All of those are amazing.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> I was noticing how nice of a job you did on the double wires (they are an absolutely horrible nightmare to do!)...Excellent work!


Oh man, seasonics are time consuming I second LRT good job pexon.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ubernub*
> 
> Hi guys. I'm fairly new to PC modding and sleeving.
> 
> Here's what I've come up during my practice runs. These aren't installed on any PC.
> I just wanted to learn the ropes so just played around. I don't have fresh ideas so I just pulled some inspiration from NBA.
> 
> Again I just started this sleeving stuff so please forgive the imperfections.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -snip-


Great job, only tip I have is use white wire for the white sleeve. Makes a ton of difference. Also if you pull your sleeve tighter you wont see the black underneath. Keep it up!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> All of those are amazing.


I second that!


----------



## 0volume0

Anyone knows is this worth anything?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Terminals-Ratchet-Crimper-Plier-AWG20-10-NIB-Capacity-1-6-0-mm-/350680115221?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51a629e815

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ratchet-Crimper-Plier-Cable-end-sleeves-AWG20-14-HS-06WF2C-/220988642647?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3373f31557

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Insulated-and-Non-Insulated-cable-end-sleeves-Ratchet-Crimping-Plier-0-5-6-0mm-/140723181791?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20c3c158df


----------



## Big Elf

Assuming the pictures match the tools then the first 2 crimpers are the wrong type to crimp ATX pins. I can't see the dies clearly enough in the third one but the description suggests that this is also the wrong type.

If you absolutely insist on cheap then *this* is the cheapest one on Ebay I'd suggest (but not wholeheartedly recommend).


----------



## 0volume0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Assuming the pictures match the tools then the first 2 crimpers are the wrong type to crimp ATX pins. I can't see the dies clearly enough in the third one but the description suggests that this is also the wrong type.
> 
> If you absolutely insist on cheap then *this* is the cheapest one on Ebay I'd suggest (but not wholeheartedly recommend).


I have already purchased the first one









But who cares, it cost me only 34 cents







Hope it may help at least with something else...


----------



## Callil

My molex extractor from mdpc just broke :'(, considering i'm so close to finishing (24pin almost done) any ghetto ways to get the pins out on the last few?

Thanks!


----------



## audioholic

You can use staples! How did you break it?


----------



## shadow water

straighten a staple
bend it in half
put it on either side of the pin
use a pair of needle noes pliers and push on the round part of the staple sticking out gentle
i did this with my whole powersupply so i know it works it just takes some practice and a bit more time


----------



## audioholic

if you are on a more "permanent" solution I in the past used filed down paper clip which worked very well.


----------



## ZeVo

I don't suppose anyone has sleeved a M12II? Really don't have the cash for a new PSU and especially for a beginner, I still need to buy all the accessories and extra in case I mess up.


----------



## Belial

Going to be paracord sleeving some stuff. I have a semi-modular Rosewill Capstone modular 550w (24 pin and cpu pin are permanent), I'm thinking of still using paracord sleeving on just extensions (cpu/mobo/2x6pin pci) though - that way the cables come out of the psu, and behind the motherboard very discretely in full, black sleeving, and then come out to their connections all razzle dazzle.

Think im going to colonial blue paracord all the motherboard connections and thermal diodes too.


----------



## ubernub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jwright0291*
> 
> I like that last one a lot.


Thank you sir!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> All of those are amazing.


Thanks for the appreciation
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Great job, only tip I have is use white wire for the white sleeve. Makes a ton of difference. Also if you pull your sleeve tighter you wont see the black underneath. Keep it up!


Wow, thank you so much for the tips sir! I've been watching your vids even before I made my 1st sleeve. It has helped me a lot!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callil*
> 
> My molex extractor from mdpc just broke :'(, considering i'm so close to finishing (24pin almost done) any ghetto ways to get the pins out on the last few?
> 
> Thanks!


Check out this vid, I made this when I was trying out some alternative tool for the molex. Worked great.



*Sorry for my bad english, it isn't my native tongue.


----------



## pexon

Not really internal related, but here is a few keyboard cables I've done over the last few days


----------



## 0volume0

Check out this vid, I made this when I was trying out some alternative tool for the molex. Worked great.



*Sorry for my bad english, it isn't my native tongue.[/quote]

Hehe, nice


----------



## ubernub

@pexon,

This is really looking great! Double heat shrink for aesthetics.

@0volume0,
Thanks.


----------



## pexon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ubernub*
> 
> @pexon,
> 
> This is really looking great! Double heat shrink for aesthetics.
> 
> @0volume0,
> Thanks.


Really makes a big difference, its only subtle but it makes a massive difference


----------



## nleksan

Those USB/Keyboard cables are absolutely awesome! I am getting ready to sleeve ALL of my external cables, and the double heat-shrink is very cool! I might just steal that, as it would work great with my whole-system White&Black color theme


----------



## jfry94

Does anyone know how long it takes Nils to ship to the UK.
Pexon, that first sleeve looks awesome what sleeve is it?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfry94*
> 
> Does anyone know how long it takes Nils to ship to the UK.


He puts it in the envelope immediately, but he sends it by registered letter post. How good are Royal Mail normally with overseas letters?


----------



## Big Elf

It takes anything from 4 to 6 working days for packages from Nils to the UK.


----------



## GEEKICON

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> He puts it in the envelope immediately, but he sends it by registered letter post. How good are Royal Mail normally with overseas letters?


There good normally. I never had problems with royall mail with overseas letters. you should get it within 5 to 7 days or even early


----------



## jfry94

It should be here tomorrow then hopefully. i ordered it on the 17th but had to message him as i needed to add some crimps and he added them and posted it that evening.


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfry94*
> 
> Does anyone know how long it takes Nils to ship to the UK.
> Pexon, that first sleeve looks awesome what sleeve is it?


Took me about a week, week-and-a-half, to get my package from him, and I'm in Canada.

Id imagine less than a week for you, depending on how slow/fast the Royal Mail is, as WiSK pointed out.


----------



## Belial

holy fudge paracord sleeving sucks butthole so hard. farm this stuff.

I've already wasted more than half of the 50 ft of paracord I got (yes, i have all the tools, popping pins, cutting paracord, and sliding it onto the wire is the easy parts). It's impossible get heatshrinkless paracord to stick, there are no videos of how to do it (lutro's video, for example, doesn't show how to do it), so you just end up wasting paracord length and then gotta throw the line out after working for it forever. Then no matter how delicate you are, all it takes is for a single pin to somehow pop off the wire and you spend the next 3 hours fighting pins and pulling them from extra extensions you might have, trying to get it on the wire and then into the pin hole.

so ******ed. ive spent so many hours and i just got 1 cpu and almost a pci done. like 8 hours. ***


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> It's impossible get heatshrinkless paracord to stick, there are no videos of how to do it


The paracord doesn't "stick". When you lightly melt it, you squeeze the end around the thinnest part of the pin. Then it's too small to pass the wings.

Search "heatshrinkless" on youtube, there are plenty of other examples if Lutro0's video isn't quite clear enough for you.


----------



## Belial

It's not just that. It's quite an aggravating operation. I'm quite a handy person, I've built a ton of models, i made professional figurines, I work in a computer and cell phone repair shop, i'm good with tiny things and using my hands. This paracord sleeving is a huge pain, my fingers hurt, everything is burnt, it stinks. like why am i touching hot things and hot metal omg this sucks. i wish someone else around here had impressed how much sleeving paracord sucked, I would have just paid the $15 extra it would have cost to have someone else do it all for me (shipping, supplies, tools, all considered).


----------



## Drzewo

You can also do heatshrinkless paracord with heatshrink. Just like Lutro0 does with MDPC. It's not necessary, but it can help to hold the sleeving on the connector.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> This paracord sleeving is a huge pain, my fingers hurt, everything is burnt, it stinks. like why am i touching hot things and hot metal omg this sucks.


Forgive me, but the way you describe it, sounds like you are melting it too much. Paracord only needs a brief application of the lighter flame, and only against the very edge of the sleeve. Just to seal the end edge closed, and the only touch you need to make with your fingers is a brief twist to make the end a bit smaller than the pin wings.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Finally finished with the sleeving. I cant seem to get them nice and tidy, but they are finally finished!


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> This paracord sleeving is a huge pain, my fingers hurt, everything is burnt, it stinks. like why am i touching hot things and hot metal omg this sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> Forgive me, but the way you describe it, sounds like you are melting it too much. Paracord only needs a brief application of the lighter flame, and only against the very edge of the sleeve. Just to seal the end edge closed, and the only touch you need to make with your fingers is a brief twist to make the end a bit smaller than the pin wings.
Click to expand...

Pin wings? I mean where I'm melting it, is just right above where the 18awg cable ends.

And my cables dont look as great either. I'm thinking all that rainbow stuff is custom cut cable lengths...



colonial blue, this isnt exactly how it looks irl but it's close.


----------



## audioholic

To get the rainbow you have to cut your wires about 2mm shorter..it just wont happen when sleeving. Also here is a photo of about where the paracord should go. You barely melt it..once you see the paracord bubble is when you stop and then you just pinch the ends.

And your paracord looks really loose too. But otherwise not to shabby!


----------



## Drzewo

Let's do a little bit of mathematics for perfect "rainbow"









Pi*r=30cm (half of a circle)
r=30/pi
r=9,55cm
Now you have to measure gap between two cables, and multipy it by 2 (on both sides)
Gap is ~ 4mm, so 9,55-0,08 = 9,47
So 9,47cm is our r.
Now 9,47*pi=29,75cm
About 2,5mm!









If you measure it exactly it will look awesome, but i don't know how it will lie in Your case.


----------



## audioholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drzewo*
> 
> Let's do a little bit of mathematics for perfect "rainbow"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pi*r=30cm (half of a circle)
> r=30/pi
> r=9,55cm
> Now you have to measure gap between two cables, and multipy it by 2 (on both sides)
> Gap is ~ 4mm, so 9,55-0,08 = 9,47
> So 9,47cm is our r.
> Now 9,47*pi=29,75cm
> About 2,5mm!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you measure it exactly it will look awesome, but i don't know how it will lie in Your case.


----------



## Belial

i dont really understand how tight im supposed to pull the paracord either. if it should just slack onto where it should be, do i need to pull it tight to where im gluing it (my fingers are raw from pulling on the paracord so tightly so many times, during measuring, application, stringing it through...).

I mean so far I've sleeved super super super tight.


----------



## Big Elf

The sleeve looks better when pulled taut and then fixed into place. Tacking the melted sleeve to the pin works best. Your fingers will get raw until you're used to doing it, you need to work through the pain.

Interesting calculations which tbh I don't understand. I work on a difference in cable lengths to get a good bend at roughly 7mm for each 45º of bend on a roughly 300mm wire although that can vary slightly depending on the wire length and thickness.


----------



## Belial

Tool broke, god those things are way too fragile. Well that sucks, so much for sleeving everything this weekend. Been trying to find free time for this for a month.


----------



## audioholic

Basically you want it tight enough to where the wire wont just flop down and will hold straight(mostly)
What tool were you using that broke?!
Sleeving is a painful process but you get used to it. I have had a pin stuck in my finger before..that felt great! its like getting little paper cuts


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drzewo*
> 
> Let's do a little bit of mathematics for perfect "rainbow"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> About 2,5mm!










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Interesting calculations which tbh I don't understand. I work on a difference in cable lengths to get a good bend at roughly 7mm for each 45º of bend on a roughly 300mm wire although that can vary slightly depending on the wire length and thickness.












We discussed this in the FAQ thread and in Lutro0's live sleeving thread.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> how much shorter should the inner row of wires be than the outer row... I know it will vary with the length of the extension.
> 
> 
> 
> It varies by the *length of the arc* of the curve. To keep it simple, if you presume a 90° curve then the length of that arc is _radius x pi / 2_. Since we know that MiniFit Jr connectors have a pitch of 4.2mm between rows then we find the inner row length by subtracting _4.2mm x pi / 2_, or *6.6mm shorter*. For other arc lengths, multiply by the ratio compared to 90°.
Click to expand...

_Ninja-edit: so my above calculation is wrong, forgetting that the inner circle is 2 x 4.2mm less radius_


----------



## Big Elf

Thanks for that WiSK although I still don't understand the equation. However I don't find that 13mm is enough for a 180º bend and for some reason (probably poor measurement by me) a 400mm length cable requires an extra 2mm.


----------



## WiSK

Hmm perhaps you are right Big Elf. I'm just doing 90° curves myself and on short cables and it looks fine, so I let myself be convinced that my calculation of 6.6mm is correct. But you are saying for each 45° you are using 7mm. Let me ninja-edit my post...

Let's look at it in terms of two circles. The inner circle needs to have smaller radius by the width of the connector on one side. Between the sockets on Mini Fit Jr is 4.2mm, but that's true on both sides. So radius is 8.4mm less for the inner circle. Length of a 180° arc is radius x pi. So we get indeed get that the inner wire needs to be *26.4mm* shorter than the outer wire, regardless of total length of cable.

Can't explain your extra 2mm for long cables though


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Can't explain your extra 2mm for long cables though


Inability to measure accurately


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Basically you want it tight enough to where the wire wont just flop down and will hold straight(mostly)
> What tool were you using that broke?!
> Sleeving is a painful process but you get used to it. I have had a pin stuck in my finger before..that felt great! its like getting little paper cuts


http://www.ebay.com/itm/270970022560?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

The tool actually broke because i had dropped it on the floor. A few times. I mean sometimes the pulling, yanking, the tool is bound to go flying out a few times. Next time I should work in a carpeted area. No fault of the tool, the tool was actually really good and easy. Definitely a life saver.

Are you trying to get the paracord to melt and stick to the cable, or just thinner than the 18awg? So it will push forward, but it won't pull back, kind of thing.

I paracorded all my motherboard connectors and one of my thermal diodes though, looks pretty cool. I used a tab of glue on the case cables to hold the paracord in please and then used an exacto knife to sort of jam what I could into the connectors, looks perfect even close up, and then for the thermal diode I just used a bit of electrical tape wrapped around it.


----------



## audioholic

A little work in progress on my sleeving for the Prodigy. It is coming along nicely, only issue I have is the wire is really sensitive to heat


----------



## sectionsone

My extension using black mdpcx and custom shrink


----------



## jfry94

well it doesn't look like I'm going to be sleeving for a while. I spoke to nils and he gave me the tracking info which shows my package has been in the country since 21-3-13 so either its got stuck at customs or royal mail has lost it, and I know what's more likely. If it doesn't get here tomorrow I'm going to phone them.


----------



## mrrockwell

Here's a client job all done. Corsair tx 650 and paracord.


----------



## jfry94

Does anyone know what I do now, nils has given me the tracking info which shows my order has been in the country since 21-3-13. Its still not arrived. I payed on my credit card through PayPal. I'm going to my local royal mail sorting office tomorrow to see if its there.


----------



## Big Elf

It depends on where you live in the UK but bear in mind that the snow would have disrupted some areas postal services and that they were also on strike recently. The backlog could mean it takes even more days extra to arrive.

If your sorting office is anything like mine they'll spend all of 2 nanoseconds checking before saying they haven't got it. It takes them roughly 3 days before they even deign to answer the phone. However you need confirmation from them that they haven't got it before MDPC-X can take it further.


----------



## jfry94

Il give it to the end of the week before i take it further.i completely forgot about the snow as i live in the south we didn't really get much of it. il got to the sorting office tomorrow as its near the train station i have to use to get to work. Usually im patient with this kind of thing but ive got 2 weeks of for half term and i want to get it done as i go to college for 3 days a weeks and most time's i work the other 4.


----------



## samehsameh

I'm new to cable sleeving but I'm starting to get the impression that for the ultra neat look you need to sleeve your PSU cables (or hide them) and then sleeve some extension cables mainly so that they are no tangled wires/double wires or capacitors/ferrite beeds. If this is the case can I just shorten the PSU cables cutting them and soldering the two ends back together so that I don't have a ridiculous amount of wire to try and hide rather than making customer cables with an expensive crimper and pins? Basically will soldering two ends of a cable together affect anything like amperage (probably a dumb question but electronics is definitely not my strong point)


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> Finally finished with the sleeving. I cant seem to get them nice and tidy, but they are finally finished!


Where did you get those plastic things that clump the cables together







?


----------



## Elder

Mod/Smart 3 Wire Kobra SS Cable Bundler - Black from PPCS or Frozencpu?


----------



## Belial

How do you get a terminal out of a connector? The terminal is stuck on this extension, I ended up pulling the wire right out and the tool won't get the wires to come out of one of the sides. I know the tool is good because it worked fine for many other terminals, and the other side of the extension no problem. But on one sides I'm having a lot of difficulty, I've got a few wires that just came right out and I don't know how to get these extensions out without destroying the extension.


----------



## audioholic

I use the end of a metal coat hanger and just push it out


----------



## Belial

got one but not the other. its really badly stuck in there, going to have to get another extension ;/

edit: eventually got that one out, mutilated (pull a terminal from some supplied gpu extension that i didnt need) but it's literally every other terminal pin on one side on this apevia motherboard extension that is a pain, is stuck, won't come out, I end up just pulling the entire wire out and having to destroy the terminal to get it out... i won't have enough spare terminals to find to put on, and with no crimping tool it's a huge pain too. Just went and bought a rosewill extension, like I had gotten for my cpu/2xpi and had no problem with.

Got the hang of sleeving paracord now though, there's no good videos out there. It would have been a lot easier if there were good advice on how to do it - you use the very base of the flame so it's way cooler, if your hand burns from touching then you are too high up on the flame and getting it too hot, you just need to see it bubble for a sec on the low heat flame and be good, you need to twist it, not roll it or pinch it, if you melt it too far forward it won't fit in smoothly, you don't want to pull the cord super tight when measuring it out against the wire, you just pull it normally and that's tight enough, cut the paracord on a piece of wood or cardboard behind it to get a flush cut easily and quickly. def use masking tape, not any other type of tape, for wrapping terminal to sleeve through the cord so it won't get caught. do the work laying on a bed or rug or carpet because you do it, say, on a desk on hard floor, the tool is going to drop one way or another eventually (as the cord you are pulling suddenly pulls out and your hand holding the tool is like when you and someone else hold a rope and other guy just drops it, and the tool goes flying) and you'll break it very easily.

and that there are different quality extensions and paracord, if I had known that they were not all the same it would have changed my purchasing decisions. I thought apevia was name brand enough but this extension is terrible (who cares if it's sleeved, right? But it's near impossible to sleeve, is the problem, and it's very frustrating). the rosewill pre-sleeved extensions are cheap and seem pretty solid though.

The paracord I bought from *flockdeals* on ebay, the first shipment was frayed and nasty but I told him this and he immediately sent a replacement and the shipping for me to ship the bad stuff back. Stuff happens, I dont blame the guy, and he handled the problem very quickly so I wouldn't mind buying paracord from him again but i've heard of others being not so lucky. And I never knew there was such a difference in all this stuff at the beginning.

I'm okay with my decision to sleeve myself now though. There's no good videos on how to do it and it's confusing and counterintuitive at first, and hurts and is frustrating, but it didn't take long for me to get the hang of it and I believe I'm on my way to just sleeving everything quickly and easily for the rest of my life now. I mean i already sleeved my motherboard connectors, usb connectors, thermal diodes, i mean custom can't do that kind of detailing. Next time I think I'll buy my own AWG wire so i can do very consistent and nice rainbowing of the extensions and such.


----------



## Big Elf

I'm just curious whether you actually watched any of Lutro0s video sleeving guides?


----------



## One2Three

Can anyone share pointers for approximating the lengths of wire when doing a new build? I am crimping/sleeving custom lengths of wire and I’d like to use clamps behind the mobo to keep everything tidy. The first time I cut and sleeved my wires I found they were a bit too short; the next attempt I felt they ended-up too long. Is there a way to do this without repeated trial and error? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *One2Three*
> 
> Can anyone share pointers for approximating the lengths of wire when doing a new build? I am crimping/sleeving custom lengths of wire and I'd like to use clamps behind the mobo to keep everything tidy. The first time I cut and sleeved my wires I found they were a bit too short; the next attempt I felt they ended-up too long. Is there a way to do this without repeated trial and error? Thanks in advance.


I used a long piece of paracord to run the cables where I'd want to. I'd then mark a spot on the paracord where I would cut, and transfer that measurement to the sleeve. Then cut that length. It can get tedious, and you may need s few pieces of paracord or shoelace.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *One2Three*
> 
> Can anyone share pointers for approximating the lengths of wire when doing a new build? I am crimping/sleeving custom lengths of wire and I'd like to use clamps behind the mobo to keep everything tidy. The first time I cut and sleeved my wires I found they were a bit too short; the next attempt I felt they ended-up too long. Is there a way to do this without repeated trial and error? Thanks in advance.


Instead of doing the whole thing at once, a practical way is to make a single template sleeved wire and reuse it to measure each position. So cut a too-long length of wire and too-long length of sleeve. Write down how long it is. Crimp only one end and melt the sleeve onto it. Stick this test-wire in the PSU connector and then route as you want it. Measure to the start of the ATX connector and then add 9mm (for the depth the wire goes into the connector). Compare this to your template and then you'll know how long to cut the actual wire. Once you make and sleeve the new wire, double check that it's correct and if you need to make a correction, write that down as well. Then do the next wire using the template again, taking account of any correction you measured previously.


----------



## kingchris

well heres my sleeving all finished.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> well heres my sleeving all finished.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a jolly nice rig. I'm sure the sleeving's nice but can't see it in detail


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> That's a jolly nice rig. I'm sure the sleeving's nice but can't see it in detail


a few close ups.


and one of the underside, 2 lots of cables!


----------



## jfry94

Still no package. I don't no what to do next.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfry94*
> 
> Still no package. I don't no what to do next.


Does Royal Mail admit yet that they've lost it? Keep in contact with Nils about this, I hope he will know what to do.


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> Mod/Smart 3 Wire Kobra SS Cable Bundler - Black from PPCS or Frozencpu?


Whoa! I hadn't seem them before







, thanks!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Does Royal Mail admit yet that they've lost it? Keep in contact with Nils about this, I hope he will know what to do.


Either way Nils will make it right and send you a new one if it did indeed get lost. Have never heard of him not taking care of a customer.


----------



## audioholic

Work in progress







what do you guys think?


----------



## jfry94

I emailed Nil's again saying I've tried ringing royal mail a number of times but all i get is an automated system and that i had been to my local sorting office and they point blank refused to have a look to see if it was there. Mona's reply
Hello Josh,

the telephone number of Royal Mail within UK is 08457-740740.
This may be an automated system, but our customers did get through to a person (you probably have to press a certain number) and were informed about their shipments.

All contact information is here:
http://www.royalmail.com/customer-service/contact-us

Please keep me updated.

Best regards,
Mona.

So I'm going to phone royal mail again in the morning, but so far I've failed in getting through to a human.

I did however start making my custom length extensions this afternoon ready to be sleeved.


----------



## pexon

Some iPhone 5 cables and the start of a Banana > RCA set of leads





Really like these bad boys! ;D The Woodland Camo Paracord looks really cool, especially with the nice clear housings. It keeps the cables nice and flexible too and still retains good strength.



Last one for today, will hopefully update tomorrow.... This is a Banana Plug to RCA lead, 9 foot in length, 18AWG, wrapped, black paracord, Nakamichi (these are really nice for the money) plugs and Rean RCA jacks.



Thanks for looking and gave a GREAT weekend everyone! Take Care!!!


----------



## Jwright0291

How did you do the i5 cables? The USB end particularly


----------



## pexon

IT R SEKRIT LOL


----------



## Jwright0291

Wahh


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*
> 
> IT R SEKRIT LOL


Are you sure you're in the right forum?


----------



## pexon

Sorry, it was like 5AM when I wrote that on the end of a LoL binge.

Anyway, I solder them up myself so....


----------



## Drzewo

Have a quick look at my 2nd sleeving job


----------



## CrazyCorky

I was wondering if anyone has sleeved a EVGA NEX750B psu yet? I haven't seen a wiring diagram yet to figure out if or how many split wires are.


----------



## longroadtrip

For those of you with a Prodigy...









Prodigy USB 3.0 Sleeving Guide


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> For those of you with a Prodigy...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Prodigy USB 3.0 Sleeving Guide


Awesome


----------



## Noskcaj

can someone sleeve my modxtream for me? i have heatshrink and sleeve already.

also, how can i sleeve usb cables or headphone cables?


----------



## airplaneman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> can someone sleeve my modxtream for me? i have heatshrink and sleeve already.
> 
> also, how can i sleeve usb cables or headphone cables?


Best to find someone locally, since you're in Australia. Shipping would almost make it not worth it.

You can sleeve headphone cable the same way you would any other wire..?

For USB ones, you need larger sleeve. It may be necessary to cut one end of the connect off to get the sleeve over it, then solder the wires back together. Make sure you measure first!


----------



## MClouse

Has anyone had any cables done by moddiy? If so, what did you guys' think of their work?


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MClouse*
> 
> Has anyone had any cables done by moddiy? If so, what did you guys' think of their work?


i've bought their sleeving. pretty good but remember gold is semi see-through. their stuff is fairly good but Lutr0 is better if you can afford him.


----------



## pexon

More from me....


----------



## pexon

More keyboard cables ;D


----------



## MClouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> i've bought their sleeving. pretty good but remember gold is semi see-through. their stuff is fairly good but Lutr0 is better if you can afford him.


Thanks for your input! I woud like to go with lutro0 but I don't want extensions. From what I understand, moddiy makes cables that plug directly into your psu as long as you inform them what psu it is.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> I was wondering if anyone has sleeved a EVGA NEX750B psu yet? I haven't seen a wiring diagram yet to figure out if or how many split wires are.


There is a guy sending me his NEX750G cables to sleeve right now, so I should have a wiring diagram up within the week. The 750B is semi-modular, so it's going to take some doing!! Good Luck!


----------



## audioholic

I am actually sleevingba modXstream-pro 600W right now. It is semi-modular and you do have to remove the warranty sticker on a screw.


----------



## Seredin

This is a surprisingly tough question to search for:
Lighter or heat gun and why?

I have neither, am about to sleeve, and wanna know some pros and cons for each tool. I can't wait to post some pics of my finished sleeves, and this is the last tool standing between me and all this sexy goodness.

edit- yay adventure time!


----------



## volegradele

Finally done!!


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> This is a surprisingly tough question to search for:
> Lighter or heat gun and why?
> 
> I have neither, am about to sleeve, and wanna know some pros and cons for each tool. I can't wait to post some pics of my finished sleeves, and this is the last tool standing between me and all this sexy goodness.
> 
> edit- yay adventure time!


Depends on what you're doing! If you're using paracord, lighter. If you're using heatshrink with mdpc-x or similar, heatgun. I like a heatgun for heatshrink because it doesn't burn or leave any carbon on the heatshrink. I know some people will say lighter all the way, but that's just my 2 cents.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Depends on what you're doing! If you're using paracord, lighter. If you're using heatshrink with mdpc-x or similar, heatgun. I like a heatgun for heatshrink because it doesn't burn or leave any carbon on the heatshrink. I know some people will say lighter all the way, but that's just my 2 cents.


Yeah it's MDPC with shrink. I was thinking of getting a heatgun anyways, and I really like the idea of not getting scorch marks on my shrink. Sounds like I'm going to home depot today!


----------



## DurtNasty88

So much inspiration here! I would not have even considered this if i hadn't stumbled across this thread. Keep up the good work all, and keep posting! Really helps out newbs like me


----------



## Chef Bobert

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Depends on what you're doing! If you're using paracord, lighter. If you're using heatshrink with mdpc-x or similar, heatgun. I like a heatgun for heatshrink because it doesn't burn or leave any carbon on the heatshrink. I know some people will say lighter all the way, but that's just my 2 cents.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah it's MDPC with shrink. I was thinking of getting a heatgun anyways, and I really like the idea of not getting scorch marks on my shrink. Sounds like I'm going to home depot today!
Click to expand...

Try to grab a heat gun that has a reducing tip on it for more precise areas if you can.. It's not the biggest deal, but it helps..

Sent from Tapatalk


----------



## Jwright0291

Stiff-Line Vs. Paracord for heatshrinkless
Ready
...
GO!!


----------



## jfry94

Still no sleeve, hopefully this gets sorted asap. My phone bill is ridiculous keep having to phone royal mail.








All the pictures are making me jealous lol. I WANNA SLEEVE.

I'm going to order some stiff line if my MDPC order get refunded. Heck I might just order some to play around with.









Mod edit: Please use the edit button instead of double posting.

Will do, sorry


----------



## kingchris

i used a hair drier, gave me a nice finish!


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> i used a hair drier, gave me a nice finish!


I did a test run last night with a heat gun, and ended up using the lighter. If I had an attachment for the gun that focused the heat, it would be much more usable.


----------



## Big Elf

I use an *Iroda MJ-600 Heat Gun*. I find it easier to direct the heat to the right place with it being fairly small.


----------



## TeamBlue

Apparently the Mods here think I am trying to offer services, so let me be clear: If I say PM me in regards to a question you posted, that DOES NOT mean that I am trying to sell you on my services or trying to circumvent the artisan program. I am going on record to say that I do not offer any sleeving services on overclock.net. Now that that's cleared up, here's a picture of my saturday night:


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Apparently the Mods here think I am trying to offer services, so let me be clear: If I say PM me in regards to a question you posted, that DOES NOT mean that I am trying to sell you on my services or trying to circumvent the artisan program. I am going on record to say that I do not offer any sleeving services on overclock.net. Now that that's cleared up, here's a picture of my saturday night:


With that being said maybe you should consider becoming one? Thats where I got my start.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> With that being said maybe you should consider becoming one? Thats where I got my start.


Eventually... I don't have the necessary rep count, etc. to do that. Fast forward a whole bunch of +REP clicks, maybe.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfry94*
> 
> Still no sleeve, hopefully this gets sorted asap. My phone bill is ridiculous keep having to phone royal mail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All the pictures are making me jealous lol. I WANNA SLEEVE.
> 
> I'm going to order some stiff line if my MDPC order get refunded. Heck I might just order some to play around with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mod edit: Please use the edit button instead of double posting.
> 
> Will do, sorry


Sorry to hear that you're having this issue. Speak with Nils or Mona, and they should help you out. They're great people and I've never seen them let a customer down, even as far away as here in the United States. I buy all of my sleeve from Nils, and have never had an issue.


----------



## jfry94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Sorry to hear that you're having this issue. Speak with Nils or Mona, and they should help you out. They're great people and I've never seen them let a customer down, even as far away as here in the United States. I buy all of my sleeve from Nils, and have never had an issue.


I've been in regular contact with Mona over this, but its the Royal mail's fault so Mona has just been getting me to phone them to see what they can do. If its not here by Monday I can claim it lost.


----------



## chase11

I was trying to do some heatshrinkless on a pci-e cable I have. lemme know what you guys think.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chase11*
> 
> I was trying to do some heatshrinkless on a pci-e cable I have. lemme know what you guys think.


----------



## oldcompgeek

Hello fellow modders!!! I don't know how I missed this thread before when searching for some knowledge on how to better sleeve and which toolkit and heatshrink to get... oh well. I was curious if one of ya knows how I can get my molex connections to actually stay put after I sleeve them? It seems that every dang one that I take apart, sleeve, heatshrink, and reassemble just falls out of the plastic connector...??? I have watched the videos on this thread as well as searched the net to no avail. I did purchase the 4 piece set for sleeving, and they work well as far as removing the wires, but not too well for securely re-attaching them. I'd appreciate if any of y'all have any tips!!!
Here's my build log if any of y'all want to look at my amateur work...

Thanks, oldcompgeek


----------



## jfry94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldcompgeek*
> 
> Hello fellow modders!!! I don't know how I missed this thread before when searching for some knowledge on how to better sleeve and which toolkit and heatshrink to get... oh well. I was curious if one of ya knows how I can get my molex connections to actually stay put after I sleeve them? It seems that every dang one that I take apart, sleeve, heatshrink, and reassemble just falls out of the plastic connector...??? I have watched the videos on this thread as well as searched the net to no avail. I did purchase the 4 piece set for sleeving, and they work well as far as removing the wires, but not too well for securely re-attaching them. I'd appreciate if any of y'all have any tips!!!
> Here's my build log if any of y'all want to look at my amateur work...
> 
> Thanks, oldcompgeek


If you take an exacto knife you can open out the wings on the crimp slightly. Be careful not to open them to much though they could break.


----------



## oldcompgeek

You mean the lil' "wings" on the molex pins right? Those are what holds them in the connectors? I've ALMOST gotten okay at the 3-pin and 4-pin pwm connectors, but it's the tool doing the work on those for me. I also have to make a connecting wire from the floppy-style 4 pin to go to my Zalman fan controller, which is a reg 4-pin molex and wanna sleeve that one for sure to cover the splice. With so little clearance between the acrylic panel separating my dvd bays from the mobo tray area, the only way to do it is by using the floppy style 4-pin. I wonder why they don't make more adapters for those? They surely get wasted a lot..??? Thanks again for the tip!!


----------



## deltief

I want to sleeve my psu cables, I have the HX 850 and the pci-e cables running to my gpu have a bump thing wrapped in heat shrink about an inch from where the cables plug into the gpu. I hope somebody knows the part Im talking about. What under there and is it okay to cut it off so I can sleeve these cables?


----------



## audioholic

Probably a resistor...if you dont mind voiding your warranty you can chop it off...that or its a zip tie


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldcompgeek*
> 
> You mean the lil' "wings" on the molex pins right? Those are what holds them in the connectors? I've ALMOST gotten okay at the 3-pin and 4-pin pwm connectors, but it's the tool doing the work on those for me. I also have to make a connecting wire from the floppy-style 4 pin to go to my Zalman fan controller, which is a reg 4-pin molex and wanna sleeve that one for sure to cover the splice. With so little clearance between the acrylic panel separating my dvd bays from the mobo tray area, the only way to do it is by using the floppy style 4-pin. I wonder why they don't make more adapters for those? They surely get wasted a lot..??? Thanks again for the tip!!


Which crimper are you using, you may need to get a better quality one.

Have a look my my crimping video that should help out a bunch:


----------



## oldcompgeek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Depends on what you're doing! If you're using paracord, lighter. If you're using heatshrink with mdpc-x or similar, heatgun. I like a heatgun for heatshrink because it doesn't burn or leave any carbon on the heatshrink. I know some people will say lighter all the way, but that's just my 2 cents.


In your opinion, what gives heatswhrink the tightest fit? I've noticed that with the ol' lady';s Conair, it sometimes leaves the heatshrink a bit wrinkly, and not tight enough no matter how close or how long the heat's on it... Does the brand of shrink matter much?


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldcompgeek*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Depends on what you're doing! If you're using paracord, lighter. If you're using heatshrink with mdpc-x or similar, heatgun. I like a heatgun for heatshrink because it doesn't burn or leave any carbon on the heatshrink. I know some people will say lighter all the way, but that's just my 2 cents.
> 
> 
> 
> In your opinion, what gives heatswhrink the tightest fit? I've noticed that with the ol' lady';s Conair, it sometimes leaves the heatshrink a bit wrinkly, and not tight enough no matter how close or how long the heat's on it... Does the brand of shrink matter much?
Click to expand...

A lighter. It's by far the best if you know what you're doing. It can't be rushed, you have to take your time with it for a perfect, even shrink.


----------



## oldcompgeek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Which crimper are you using, you may need to get a better quality one.
> 
> Have a look my my crimping video that should help out a bunch:


I'm using my crimper/wire cutter (side cut style) that I still have from when I worked @ the forklift plant...lol Just so comfortable usin them that it's hard to switch. You have a quality product there though. Mine aren't ratcheting, but after tons of crimps, you can get a feel somewhat. The problem is seeing things lol and building new stuff is a bit different than removing things and sleeving them, then putting them back together without having any loose connections. Thank you for the video, nice work!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldcompgeek*
> 
> In your opinion, what gives heatswhrink the tightest fit? I've noticed that with the ol' lady';s Conair, it sometimes leaves the heatshrink a bit wrinkly, and not tight enough no matter how close or how long the heat's on it... Does the brand of shrink matter much?


Heatshrink brand matters a ton. Right now MDPC has the best heatshrink for sleeving available hands down.

But 4:1 thinwalled without adhesive is what you want.

As for what to use you can use a lighter on black shrink but use the blue part of the flame so you dont get charing.

But if you have colored heatshrink a heatgun with a reducer is the only way to go, because no mater how careful you are it will discolor the heatshrink with a lighter.

And a hair dryer will not work, 99% of them do not get hot enough and they dont focus the air on (which is what a reducer will do for you on a heatgun.)


----------



## jfry94

Good news my sleeve came yesterday morning. And I sleeved my first cables yesterday evening. Once I got the technique down I found it relatively easy to sleeve.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deltief*
> 
> I want to sleeve my psu cables, I have the HX 850 and the pci-e cables running to my gpu have a bump thing wrapped in heat shrink about an inch from where the cables plug into the gpu. I hope somebody knows the part Im talking about. What under there and is it okay to cut it off so I can sleeve these cables?


I have the same exact PSU and I can tell you its just a Ferrit bead(may not be spelled right). From my research, its fine to take it off. I thought about sliding it down the line farther so it wouldnt be seen, but I ended up just removing them completely. And as for that, I have seen a video of someone breaking them with a vice and then removing the pieces and HS. I just cut the HS by hand, and pulled one wire at a time through it and I now have them in a box in case I decided I want to put them back on or if I find out that they really do something productive.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfry94*
> 
> Good news my sleeve came yesterday morning. And I sleeved my first cables yesterday evening. Once I got the technique down I found it relatively easy to sleeve.


Awesome news







Sleeving is quite fun, if not arduous at times. Just take your time and things will go well.


----------



## briddell

Just ordered 30 meters of Shade 19 and 20 meters of Color X from MDPC-X; can't wait!

Plus, it turns out my father has a crimper (many of them, actually), so he sent me a few in the mail







Should be better than soldering the crimps onto the wires!


----------



## mav2000

Can anyone tell me how to take out the male pins from an extension cable. The female pins are easy enough with the pin remover tool. But the male pins don't seem to work with the same tool. Male pins in a female housing, just to be clear.


----------



## Big Elf

Do you mean ATX pins? The same tool should work on both male and female pins. However the tool that comes with the Lamptron boxed kit is badly designed and doesn't work with male pins so if you have one of those you need to get another tool.


----------



## golfergolfer

Sorry to barge in like this but has anyone ever uses white sleeving and like a uv blue sleeving? To be specific it is the stuff from ModDIY


----------



## mav2000

I use the mdpc tool, but it does not seem to work with the tax male pins. Maybe I am doing it wrong....


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav2000*
> 
> I use the mdpc tool, but it does not seem to work with the tax male pins. Maybe I am doing it wrong....


Any chance you could post a pic of the pins you mean?

If it's the basic PSU ATX pins, like the ones that might go into a GPU, then all I can say is it helped me to push the wire in a little bit, against the tool through the connector. That gave the tool just a tiny bit more room to wedge itself down and really push those little wings in.


----------



## 0volume0

Hi guys, can you please tell me what do you think about this wire. Price is good so...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/16-AWG-Marine-Tinned-Primary-Wire-Black-100-FT-/271129353958?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item3f20919ee6&vxp=mtr


----------



## samehsameh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0volume0*
> 
> Hi guys, can you please tell me what do you think about this wire. Price is good so...
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/16-AWG-Marine-Tinned-Primary-Wire-Black-100-FT-/271129353958?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item3f20919ee6&vxp=mtr


its over 3mm thick you have 0 chance of getting that into a connector with sleeve and shrink and would probably struggle shrinkless too.


----------



## 0volume0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samehsameh*
> 
> its over 3mm thick you have 0 chance of getting that into a connector with sleeve and shrink and would probably struggle shrinkless too.


Why not? I'm not the first one using 16 awg wire, besides I will not use heatshrink


----------



## samehsameh

not all 16 awg is the same, some have thin insulation i.e. lutro0s custom wire is 2.1mm thick and even the non custom stuff on his store is only 2.3mm compared to the 3.2mm of the wire you posted. I practised sleeving earlier on some wire that had an outer diameter of around 1.7-1.8mm measured with a micrometre, that was shrinkless and went in fairly easy but it filled up the entire "hole" that it went into and I could see how fatter wire would be more of a struggle. Personally I would go with something thinner myself but I have very minimal sleeving experience.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Can someone tell me if sleeving a non-modular PSU will void the warranty?

Lets say I don't want to open it but just sleeve the last 8-10 inches of it. For this I will be removing the original braided sleeve.


----------



## jd2195

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Can someone tell me if sleeving a non-modular PSU will void the warranty?
> 
> Lets say I don't want to open it but just sleeve the last 8-10 inches of it. For this I will be removing the original braided sleeve.


You only void the warranty if you open it up Im pretty sure so you should be fine.


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0volume0*
> 
> Hi guys, can you please tell me what do you think about this wire. Price is good so...
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/16-AWG-Marine-Tinned-Primary-Wire-Black-100-FT-/271129353958?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item3f20919ee6&vxp=mtr


its good wire, but its no good for sleeving! look for low amp 16awg that will be smaller OD.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Can someone tell me if sleeving a non-modular PSU will void the warranty?
> 
> Lets say I don't want to open it but just sleeve the last 8-10 inches of it. For this I will be removing the original braided sleeve.


Depends on the manufacturer...It won't for Corsair, Seasonic, and most other higher end brands....


----------



## mav2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Any chance you could post a pic of the pins you mean?
> 
> If it's the basic PSU ATX pins, like the ones that might go into a GPU, then all I can say is it helped me to push the wire in a little bit, against the tool through the connector. That gave the tool just a tiny bit more room to wedge itself down and really push those little wings in.




The right side is the male pins with female housing.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav2000*
> 
> I use the mdpc tool, but it does not seem to work with the tax male pins. Maybe I am doing it wrong....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav2000*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right side is the male pins with female housing.


My MDPC extractor is able to get male pins out no problem, but there was someone else a few months ago who had the same problem with male pins. He especially bought the original Molex brand extractor in order to do this. But then it was still unable to work for him. Perhaps it's something to do with certain connectors? Can you show an actual photo of your extensions with extractor tool inserted?


----------



## Day of the Bear

been lurking around these parts for a while and i finally got bold enough to decide to give sleeving a go. just got a big old box of stuff in from Lutro's can't wait to dig in! I'm hoping to do a full set of custom extensions for my SR2


----------



## jfry94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Day of the Bear*
> 
> been lurking around these parts for a while and i finally got bold enough to decide to give sleeving a go. just got a big old box of stuff in from Lutro's can't wait to dig in! I'm hoping to do a full set of custom extensions for my SR2


I know that feeling I read all 9000ish posts before sleeving. I've just started to sleeve and the best thing I can say is don't rush and be prepared for some sore fingers. Good luck


----------



## jfry94

Can i join the mdpc club







it finaly arrived and as a good will jesture nil's said he would include a special gift in my next order.

Look at the mess


My first sleeved cable's












I need to get some led strip's or something because the blue leds on my 680 lightning drowns the colors of the sleeve










Im so happy with these results, Im enjoying sleeving tremendously And sometime in the future i hope to have enough experience to join the world wide sleeving services group.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfry94*
> 
> Can i join the mdpc club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it finaly arrived and as a good will jesture nil's said he would include a special gift in my next order.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the mess
> 
> 
> My first sleeved cable's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to get some led strip's or something because the blue leds on my 680 lightning drowns the colors of the sleeve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im so happy with these results, Im enjoying sleeving tremendously And sometime in the future i hope to have enough experience to join the world wide sleeving services group.


Happy to hear you got it all sorted out...Nils is a great guy and always takes care of his customers...


----------



## jfry94

Him and Mona certainly do.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfry94*
> 
> Him and Mona certainly do.


Meant to tell you that those sleeved cables look great!


----------



## jfry94

Yay cheers.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfry94*
> 
> Can i join the mdpc club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it finaly arrived and as a good will jesture nil's said he would include a special gift in my next order.


There's a reason why so many people are loyal to Nils. He's a great human being, great business man, and he's always strived to take care of his customers. I wouldn't buy sleeve from anyone else, ever. IF he went out of business tomorrow, I guess I wouldn't ever sleeve my gear again. He's the only one who can be trusted and I refused to go elsewhere.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Where can I get a cheap crimping tool here in Canada? Is ebay a good option?

What do I have to look at when searching for one?

Is this one good ?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Crimping-Tool-unisulated-receptacles-tab-2-8-4-8mm-width-terminals-Crimper-Plier-/150974719195?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2326cb64db&_uhb=1#ht_4052wt_1197


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> There's a reason why so many people are loyal to Nils. He's a great human being, great business man, and he's always strived to take care of his customers. I wouldn't buy sleeve from anyone else, ever. IF he went out of business tomorrow, I guess I wouldn't ever sleeve my gear again. He's the only one who can be trusted and I refused to go elsewhere.


Lutro0? Hes my fall back from Nils, especially now that he has teamed up with E22 in the UK it should be really easy for me to get my sleeving kit


----------



## Day of the Bear

my first efforts here.


2x 6pin pcie and 1 8pin eps in place







I'll probably need to remake these at some point because the way the plugs are rotated the inside cables need to be a decent bit shorter than the outside wires to get a nice clean line. I think i'll try sewing them to train them first though.


got burned and sore fingers but it's coming along quite nicely







now to make 3 more 8pins 2 more 6pins and a 24 pin. The SR2 needs looots of cables


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Where can I get a cheap crimping tool here in Canada? Is ebay a good option?
> 
> What do I have to look at when searching for one?
> 
> Is this one good ?
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Crimping-Tool-unisulated-receptacles-tab-2-8-4-8mm-width-terminals-Crimper-Plier-/150974719195?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2326cb64db&_uhb=1#ht_4052wt_1197


Can someone please help me.

Is that a good crimper above? Do I need to buy extra die for it?


----------



## longroadtrip

I can't comment on that particular crimper...all I am going to say is that you typically get what you pay for when it comes to crimpers. If you want a decent crimper, MDPC or Lutro0 are the way to go...


----------



## geort45

When sleeving a PSU modular cable (note: NOT an extension, which goes male to female, but a cable for a modular PSU which has male pins on it, thus the cable is female-female), does it really matter to keep exactly the same pin-out? Obviously I'm not talking about mixing 12V with ground wires hehe, but mixing between the 12V cables and between the ground cables. I'm almost sure the answer is "no", but I'm not sure if it's the same for every PSU, in terms that if its one-rail or multi-rail, although I doubt a connector would have more than one rail on it.... well I just wanna know how everyone else does their cables










If you place a modular cable on a table, with the 12V wires (1,2,3) facing up, and let's say you want the pin1 on end1 match pin1 on end2, the wire would be in a diagonal, since the connectors face opposite directions:

..|63|....................|14|
[]|52|....................|25|[]
..|41|....................|36|

Right? Same goes for 3,4,6. If I wanted a neater cable with straight wires, 1 should go into 3, 3 into 1, 4 into 6 and 6 into 4. Would that be ok?


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> When sleeving a PSU modular cable (note: NOT an extension, which goes male to female, but a cable for a modular PSU which has male pins on it, thus the cable is female-female), does it really matter to keep exactly the same pin-out? Obviously I'm not talking about mixing 12V with ground wires hehe, but mixing between the 12V cables and between the ground cables. I'm almost sure the answer is "no", but I'm not sure if it's the same for every PSU, in terms that if its one-rail or multi-rail, although I doubt a connector would have more than one rail on it.... well I just wanna know how everyone else does their cables
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you place a modular cable on a table, with the 12V wires (1,2,3) facing up, and let's say you want the pin1 on end1 match pin1 on end2, the wire would be in a diagonal, since the connectors face opposite directions:
> 
> ..|63|....................|14|
> []|52|....................|25|[]
> ..|41|....................|36|
> 
> Right? Same goes for 3,4,6. If I wanted a neater cable with straight wires, 1 should go into 3, 3 into 1, 4 into 6 and 6 into 4. Would that be ok?


So long as the voltages are the same, it doesn't matter. Example would be the silverstone PCIe cables...you can mix the yellow wires up in any order that you want so long as the voltage pinout is the same.


----------



## SDBolts619

Since I'm an impatient bastard, I'll ask this question here - the same thing is in a different thread, and emailed Lutro0, but this gets more traffic, so hopefully I'll get an answer here...

My VGA cards have two six pin PCI-E connectors. On my custom cables, what would you say is the best way to wire these up? I can think of three options:

Run a separate connection for each plug direct from the PSU. I don't really want to use this option because it will mean 12 extra wires taking up space behind the motherboard tray. (And a bunch of extra work...)
Run a connection for each card and split the connection behind the motherboard tray so 12 wires for each card run out to the card. Again, more wires than I want clogging up the case, but probably easier to do than #3.
Run a single connection from the PSU to the first plug on the card and 'daisy chain' off that plug to the second plug. This is my preferred option from a 'clean cabling' perspective, but the challenge is crimping in 2 wires into the pin and sleeving everything. I've seen some ATX pins that have extra large back 'wings' that can crimp 2 wires without any issues, but am not sure where to get these from. From a sleeving perspective, I think I'd have to use heatshrink on the first connectors due to the two wires coming out of them.


----------



## longroadtrip

I personally always do option #1, but #3 would probably be best for you. Yes, they are tougher to sleeve, but there are compromises with each solution and you have to decide what is more important to you...more elegant sleeving, or fewer wires...









EDIT: another option is to solder the double wires together after they come out from behind the mobo tray...


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Where can I get a cheap crimping tool here in Canada? Is ebay a good option?
> 
> What do I have to look at when searching for one?
> 
> Is this one good ?
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Crimping-Tool-unisulated-receptacles-tab-2-8-4-8mm-width-terminals-Crimper-Plier-/150974719195?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2326cb64db&_uhb=1#ht_4052wt_1197
> 
> 
> 
> Can someone please help me.
> 
> Is that a good crimper above? Do I need to buy extra die for it?
Click to expand...

Look for the SN28B version. I'm fairly certain that the die set supplied with the SN-48B one won't crimp ATX pins properly. There is a problem with the SN28B though in that it tends to crush the wire quite badly as supplied. Although some suppliers claim that this can be tweaked by adjusting the die sets I don't see how that can be possible. I've made mine work better by filing it but you then run the risk of knackering it if you get it wrong.


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> Since I'm an impatient bastard, I'll ask this question here - the same thing is in a different thread, and emailed Lutro0, but this gets more traffic, so hopefully I'll get an answer here...
> 
> My VGA cards have two six pin PCI-E connectors. On my custom cables, what would you say is the best way to wire these up? I can think of three options:
> 
> Run a separate connection for each plug direct from the PSU. I don't really want to use this option because it will mean 12 extra wires taking up space behind the motherboard tray. (And a bunch of extra work...)
> Run a connection for each card and split the connection behind the motherboard tray so 12 wires for each card run out to the card. Again, more wires than I want clogging up the case, but probably easier to do than #3.
> Run a single connection from the PSU to the first plug on the card and 'daisy chain' off that plug to the second plug. This is my preferred option from a 'clean cabling' perspective, but the challenge is crimping in 2 wires into the pin and sleeving everything. I've seen some ATX pins that have extra large back 'wings' that can crimp 2 wires without any issues, but am not sure where to get these from. From a sleeving perspective, I think I'd have to use heatshrink on the first connectors due to the two wires coming out of them.


considering #3, maybe instead of jumping from PCIE Card1 plug1 and jump to plug 2, how about PCIE Card2 (the bottom one) plug1 to PCIE Card1 Plug1?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> 1. Run a separate connection for each plug direct from the PSU. I don't really want to use this option because it will mean 12 extra wires taking up space behind the motherboard tray. (And a bunch of extra work...)


In terms of sleeving, single wires are so much easier to do than split or daisy chained wires. 12 extra wires can be fairly neatly held together with 15mm clips. For example,



_Edit for proper attribution: various systems by Charles Harwood on MDPC #029, #032 and #042_
http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/systems-2009/murderbox/008/murderbox.htm
http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/systems-2009/murderbox/009/murderbox.htm
http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/systems-2011/murderbox-mk2/murderbox-mk2.htm


----------



## longroadtrip

Wisk the guy that always has brilliant advice and on occasion shows us his brilliant technique!









You make it look easy my friend!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Wisk the guy that always has brilliant advice and on occasion shows us his brilliant technique!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You make it look easy my friend!


You know very well I borrowed that picture from Nils









Fixed original post for proper attribution. Those cables were done by Charles Harwood, technique used on several of the Murderboxes.


----------



## jfry94

How much shorter does everyone make the inner cables on there extension's?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfry94*
> 
> How much shorter does everyone make the inner cables on there extension's?


We had this discussion a couple of times. Based on 4.2mm pitch in the MiniFitJr connectors and the formula pi x 4.2mm = 13.2mm for a semi-circle (180 degrees). So I've used approx 6.6mm for 90 degree curves and it seems good. Lutro0 agreed he uses half-an-inch (=12.7mm) for a 180 degree extension. However, later BigElf said he uses 7mm per 45 degree curve and even then he found it sometimes too long.


----------



## jfry94

cheers wisk +rep


----------



## samehsameh

The maths is straight forward when dealing with perfect a perfect rainbow but in reality its not a perfect rainbow, the connector doesn't bend. If we ignore that which is pretty safe to do then you can work it out or use this little page I just knocked up. http://www.samsprojects.com/stuff/curve.htm


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> two prong cable i shortened for a subwoofer a while back.


I haven't been able to find an "audiophile connector" for the two pin plugs (IEC C7), where did you get it







???

Thank you in advance


----------



## longroadtrip

The 2-pin C7 can be hard to find...here's a gold plated one....



For regular IEC connectors, this shop is pretty decent...

Hope that helps...


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> The 2-pin C7 can be hard to find...here's a gold plated one....
> 
> 
> 
> For regular IEC connectors, this shop is pretty decent...
> 
> Hope that helps...


I already have a pair of regular 3 prong connectors, furutech-clones







, haven't been able to find clones for the C7 ones though!


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> I already have a pair of regular 3 prong connectors, furutech-clones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , haven't been able to find clones for the C7 ones though!


Sometimes you have to get the real thing...


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> I haven't been able to find an "audiophile connector" for the two pin plugs (IEC C7), where did you get it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ???
> 
> Thank you in advance


What about these ISOTEK ones.

Edit:Sometimes you can find them on ebay for cheap.


----------



## jfry94

Started sewing today.


----------



## DurtNasty88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfry94*
> 
> Started sewing today.


nice!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfry94*
> 
> Started sewing today.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Excellent!

(pity the carpet clashes colours)


----------



## jfry94

Thanks, I'm really happy with the way its turned out. The blue thread I'm using matches the b magic sleeve really well. My only qualm with it is when sewing custom cables it really shows any slight differences in cable lengths.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfry94*
> 
> Thanks, I'm really happy with the way its turned out. The blue thread I'm using matches the b magic sleeve really well. My only qualm with it is when sewing custom cables it really shows any slight differences in cable lengths.


This is where the sleeving work done by people like Lutro0 and Psychosleeve really really stands out. Absolute exact measurements on wires and sleeves. Comes only after many hours of experience, burnt fingers and the like. The balls to throw stuff away that isn't perfect


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> This is where the sleeving work done by people like Lutro0 and Psychosleeve really really stands out. Absolute exact measurements on wires and sleeves. Comes only after many hours of experience, burnt fingers and the like. The balls to throw stuff away that isn't perfect




But srsly +1 on the burnt fingers and throwing away.... lots of throwing away in the beginning.


----------



## jfry94

If I have the sleeve left once I've done the other cables I will remake it. But when its in the case you can't see it so its not a massive problem. I'm now hooked on this sleeving lark, cheers mike lol


----------



## jfry94

I finished sewing my 8pin today.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfry94*
> 
> I finished sewing my 8pin today.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome


----------



## jfry94

Getting there


----------



## Pidoma

Just got myself into sleeving. Got everything I needed from Lutro0.

Here is my first attempt at sleeving using heatshrink.



I didn't like that look so I decided to try the heatshrinkless method



I will be doing my entire power supply, but I thought I would start with my 4 pin.

Sorry for my bad phone pics


----------



## Jwright0291

So how does Lutro0 stiff line compare to mdpc?


----------



## shadow water

the satisfaction of completing a custom gpu cable is ohh so sweet











and you gotta love having no finger prints after heatshrink less paracord


----------



## chase11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow water*
> 
> the satisfaction of completing a custom gpu cable is ohh so sweet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and you gotta love having no finger prints after heatshrink less paracord


It looks like the paracord is coming out on one of the cables on the last picture. other then that it looks pretty decent.


----------



## Pidoma

Just got done sleeving my first 24pin.

What do you guys think?



I will make everything tight and pretty tomorrow.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Nice color choice!


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pidoma*
> 
> Just got done sleeving my first 24pin.
> 
> What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will make everything tight and pretty tomorrow.










because i bet your is sore


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Nice color choice!


Thanks. I like it too. Something different.

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> because i bet your is sore


My finger tips hurt. lol


----------



## SDBolts619

Couple of pix of my work in progress. PCI-E cables left to do.





On a side note, how do you de-pin USB headers? This cable needs sleeving!


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> On a side note, how do you de-pin USB headers? This cable needs sleeving!


'Lift' the plastic tabs with a small flathead screwdriver then pull the wire out. Careful to only 'lift' the tab enough to get the wire out, if you do it too much it's likely to break off.

P.S. Would love to see a close up of your SATA cables


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> Couple of pix of my work in progress. PCI-E cables left to do.


Looking good also nice work on the clean cable routing.


----------



## timtim77

Guys - first time sleeving - what do you think of this?

Terrible picture due to flash but the only thing i am not sure about is maybe i should have done the whole of the left PCIE connectors grey?????

Having said that i did only want a flash of grey down one side and not too much...... Does anyone out there actually prefer the way i have done it here to match the 24 pin etc????

Tom

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/824/20130421201352.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/713/20130421201312.jpg/


----------



## OccultAssassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timtim77*
> 
> Guys - first time sleeving - what do you think of this?
> Terrible picture due to flash but the only thing i am not sure about is maybe i should have done the whole of the left PCIE connectors grey?????
> Having said that i did only want a flash of grey down one side and not too much...... Does anyone out there actually prefer the way i have done it here to match the 24 pin etc????
> Tom


Looks good for a first time sleeve.







The left top PCIe connector looks like the black got a little melted, but that might look that way in the pics. Not to be negative, but that one slash of color on one side is not something I would prefer(the sleeve job though still looks good having said that). Honestly though my opinion on style shouldn't matter, because if you like the look/color scheme then that is all that matters. Looking at other peoples work on this thread, I think, helps in getting creative input and gives you more concrete examples of what you like and dislike which in turns helps flush out more creative patterns, schemes, and colors you would like to see in your own work.


----------



## SDBolts619

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> 'Lift' the plastic tabs with a small flathead screwdriver then pull the wire out. Careful to only 'lift' the tab enough to get the wire out, if you do it too much it's likely to break off.
> 
> P.S. Would love to see a close up of your SATA cables


Thanks for the heads up - I was trying to press down. Tonight I'll see if I can pop them out by doing it correctly...

Here's a couple of quickly shot close ups of the SATA power cables (I presume those are the ones you meant...)





You can see a little 'oops' there in that last one - a tiny bit of heatshrink on the lower blue wire - those two SSD's are really close together in an Icy Dock SSD holder and I didn't get the spacing correct on my first go and had a tiny bit of bare wire, so a itty bitty bit of heatshrink to make sure it wasn't exposed.

On the heatshrink side - I was really lucky to pick this stuff up at my local Willy's Electronics Supply - it's 3-1 shrink with glue on the insides, so once you shrink it onto that wire, it's not going anywhere!


----------



## Elder

Techflex Multifilament recabling (Seasonic SS1000XP)


----------



## darkphantom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> Techflex Multifilament recabling (Seasonic SS1000XP)


Wow, looks nice! How long did it take you?


----------



## Elder

About a week,
evenings in my spare time, not all at once.
Fingers hurt









Plus something else


----------



## Elder

Some old pics...
Samples from my friend ... *Darmacz*


----------



## timtim77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OccultAssassin*
> 
> Looks good for a first time sleeve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left top PCIe connector looks like the black got a little melted, but that might look that way in the pics. Not to be negative, but that one slash of color on one side is not something I would prefer(the sleeve job though still looks good having said that). Honestly though my opinion on style shouldn't matter, because if you like the look/color scheme then that is all that matters. Looking at other peoples work on this thread, I think, helps in getting creative input and gives you more concrete examples of what you like and dislike which in turns helps flush out more creative patterns, schemes, and colors you would like to see in your own work.


Thanks for the comments. You certainly have an eye for detail and some good advice. Appreciate the feedback.

I guess the thing is i didnt want to make the cables into too much of an eye catching feature (hence why i went for mostly black) because i wanted to keep the water cooling stuff the main focus. So i didnt want too many different colours and i am not sure i like alternating colours either on the cables (so black, grey, black, grey etc). I did spend a lot of time looking through all the awesome pics on this board.

Here is a better picture without the flash and i think the effect i wanted was to have the leading edge on the cables grey and rest black... so quite subtle overall... anyway i may think about re-doing it, have to give it some thought, but happy to hear some more comments from anyone on this board?

I found the cable braiding ok once i got the hang of it, but now deciding on the style and theme is the hardest bit, maybe i should have planned it better, i dont know, but i am kind of pleased with how its turned out but with so many options for colours etc its hard to settle on one style alone... so any tips welcome!!

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/825/jbgdx4q7t9rqjwyuenkqnpx.jpg/


----------



## ACallander

I'm wanting to purchase sleeving already made for my SeaSonic 1000w Platinum but I'm wondering which company I should go with.

Moddiy or MaximumMods.com?

I'd do it myself but I don't have that free time. Three kiddos there isnt time for much!


----------



## audioholic

Guys,
Just got Lutro0s stiff line sleeve. 25 feet of blue, white, and black. I have to say after using many other types of sleeve, I was expecting the same product I have seen before. But to be honest this stiff line sleeve is a completely different animal. The diameter is small so it will make sleeving very simple even for beginners. I have to say Mike good work on this one!
I am very impressed with the quality, it truly does deserve the name "stiff line." After using the other brands of sleeve throughout the years this product is definitely quality! I know first hand how expensive it is to find the sleeve you are wanting to sell with your name on it, and think the choice of sleeve here is top notch.
I am excited to see what this product will bring to the sleeving industry!
I think using a combination of LC Custom wire and this stiff line sleeve many of us can make some excellent pieces of art. I look forward to being able to work with it this weekend


----------



## Seredin

First pictoral post in here. Sleeving one of those Seasonic X-series PSUs, so I'm not going to bother showing the lower spaghetti connections. Here's my finished 24-pin end, though. Yeah!


----------



## chase11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> First pictoral post in here. Sleeving one of those Seasonic X-series PSUs, so I'm not going to bother showing the lower spaghetti connections. Here's my finished 24-pin end, though. Yeah!


Lookin good. My only critique would be that the sleeve could be stretched a little more on some of the wires. Nice job though it looks good


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chase11*
> 
> Lookin good. My only critique would be that the sleeve could be stretched a little more on some of the wires. Nice job though it looks good


I know it. I probably should have started with a less visible connector to get the length tricks all under my belt for shrinkless sleeving. Some of those were a couple mm too long. If I have the leftover sleeving when I'm done, I bet I'll revisit these









edit: also, though, keep in mind that 4 of those greys are double wires. I just realized that makes them look fatter/less stretched.


----------



## InvalidFFS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*


This is truly beautiful I want one!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> Guys,
> Just got Lutro0s stiff line sleeve. 25 feet of blue, white, and black. I have to say after using many other types of sleeve, I was expecting the same product I have seen before. But to be honest this stiff line sleeve is a completely different animal. The diameter is small so it will make sleeving very simple even for beginners. I have to say Mike good work on this one!
> I am very impressed with the quality, it truly does deserve the name "stiff line." After using the other brands of sleeve throughout the years this product is definitely quality! I know first hand how expensive it is to find the sleeve you are wanting to sell with your name on it, and think the choice of sleeve here is top notch.
> I am excited to see what this product will bring to the sleeving industry!
> I think using a combination of LC Custom wire and this stiff line sleeve many of us can make some excellent pieces of art. I look forward to being able to work with it this weekend


Thanks for the awesome review bud!


----------



## jfry94

Just a small update, I finished the small 5inch extension for the 24pin. sorry about all the other cables I checked it back together to watch some of lutro0s live stream earlier.
I just need to do my data molex and GPU cables. What do you guys think I should do foe my GPU cables: do I thread then round the back or should I make a feature out of them but sewing them so it makes a perfect 90 from the PSU to the gpu.


----------



## pexon

Moar from me


----------



## pexon




----------



## WiSK

Pexon: it's all lovely


----------



## chase11

I ordered some stuff to make extentions from lutro0 on Friday Will post pics when I'm done


----------



## mrrockwell

Here's my side panel window to show off my sleeving job



More on that in the build log


----------



## pexon

I have also made some Royal blue and Carbon Paracord extensions over the weekend. The 24 and 8 pin are 150mm and the PCI cables are 300mm









Managed to sleeve my PSU for my new project too







And lastly a simple Techflex Blue cable


----------



## TeamBlue

Hi, my name's pexon and I'm a sleeving addict


----------



## pexon

Hahah! Need to go for a meeting for it soon!


----------



## 0volume0

@pexon Such a nice job mate







You can never go wrong with those colors!

New package from Nils is here, so please allow me to share few pics with you guys









New pliers, some terminals, screws, shrink, molex connectors...






...and some sleeve of course. Black, white and aquamarine mkII small sleeve, usb sleeve, sata sleeve





Let's get back to bussiness, asap!


----------



## longroadtrip

This came in yesterday...


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InvalidFFS*
> 
> This is truly beautiful I want one!


----------



## DisturbedElite

So.....I bought a Sea sonic extension kit...was half way sleeved then not being able to get one of the pins out knowing it was correctly ready to come out I grabbed some vice grip...the pins still in the socket the wire isn't *** and Sea sonic why do you make your cables such a pain to sleeve?!


----------



## ACallander

Can anyone help out maximummods.com.. He's wanting to make and sleeve cables for my SeaSonic 1000w platinum he just doesn't have the pin diagram for CPU and pci pins.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACallander*
> 
> Can anyone help out maximummods.com.. He's wanting to make and sleeve cables for my SeaSonic 1000w platinum he just doesn't have the pin diagram for CPU and pci pins.


Sorry to sound cynical, but you're paying someone to do this, surely he can type in "seasonic 1000w platinum pinout" into google himself?










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.overclock.net/t/1357318/seasonic-platinum-1000w-24-pin-diagram


----------



## TeamBlue




----------



## OzMan84

Could someone please post mdpc sata sleeve next to some lutro0 coreless paracord? I am not sure if they will go well together or not


----------



## Seredin

Is there any crazy reason why I can't have a 12v pump and a 5v LED on the same molex pinout? Seems like a simple question, but I am scared to death of power supplies.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Is there any crazy reason why I can't have a 12v pump and a 5v LED on the same molex pinout? Seems like a simple question, but I am scared to death of power supplies.


That should be no problem. As long as you get the wires correct. Remember, the middle two are ground, with the outter two being 12v and 5v. Usually the 12v is yellow, but you would need to confirm that.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> That should be no problem. As long as you get the wires correct. Remember, the middle two are ground, with the outter two being 12v and 5v. Usually the 12v is yellow, but you would need to confirm that.


Yeah it worked out to be a no brainer, as the 12v and 5v wire pairs were each on opposite side of their respective connector. Sweet!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzMan84*
> 
> Could someone please post mdpc sata sleeve next to some lutro0 coreless paracord? I am not sure if they will go well together or not


http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1039851227#post1039851227


----------



## shadow water

hey guys i just sleeved my 6pin and the sleeving looks amazing but the wires inside are wavy. how do i train the wires to straighten out?


----------



## Big Elf

Maybe you haven't pulled the sleeve tight enough?


----------



## shadow water

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Maybe you haven't pulled the sleeve tight enough?


the sleeving is tight its the wire so i need to figure out how the straighten the wires and flatten them out.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

I know this isn't a sleeving question but hopefully you guys can help me out, would a "push to make, push to break" switch such as this one work as a power switch for my PC, it has two terminals, so I assume one goes straight to the positive mobo header and the other to the negative header?

Cheers


----------



## shadow water

okay guys i figured it out with wavy wires. i just clamped them by the plug the taped about 5 pounds to the other end of the wires and it straightened out the wires and didnt pull any of the sleeving out.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

First attempt sleeving using Lutro0 Stiff line. Other connector was not yet attached so that is why it is not pictured.


----------



## shadow water

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> First attempt sleeving using Lutro0 Stiff line. Other connector was not yet attached so that is why it is not pictured.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looks pretty dam good


----------



## Noskcaj

Would the Corsair HX and TXM Series Black Sleeved Modular Cable Kit work in an OCZ modxtreme?

also, where can i get pre-crimped wire or a crimping tool cheap?

i've still not managed to depin the 24-pin on my ModXtreme


----------



## Buklyne

Hey guys ther eis a long time i don't write on this thread i have some pics to share about my new gaming build and sleeving parts.








What do you guys think ?
ps: if you wanna see more about the build look at my pics gallery:thumb:


----------



## shadow water

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buklyne*
> 
> Hey guys ther eis a long time i don't write on this thread i have some pics to share about my new gaming build and sleeving parts.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think ?
> ps: if you wanna see more about the build look at my pics gallery:thumb:


you do great work but why are you just doing extensions?


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> Would the Corsair HX and TXM Series Black Sleeved Modular Cable Kit work in an OCZ modxtreme?
> 
> also, where can i get pre-crimped wire or a crimping tool cheap?
> 
> i've still not managed to depin the 24-pin on my ModXtreme


Generally you can't mix and match cables from one model from the same manufacturer to another never mind from a different manufacturer to another. You might get lucky but are more likely to destroy components by trying it.

What are the problems you're having trying to depin the 24 pin? I assume you:
are using a decent tool?
have tried, with the tool inserted, pushing the wire up into the connector first then pushing the tool in a bit further?
have used a fair bit of strength to pull the wire out?
have kept the wire perfectly straight to the connector when trying to remove it?


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Generally you can't mix and match cables from one model from the same manufacturer to another never mind from a different manufacturer to another. You might get lucky but are more likely to destroy components by trying it.
> 
> What are the problems you're having trying to depin the 24 pin? I assume you:
> are using a decent tool?
> have tried, with the tool inserted, pushing the wire up into the connector first then pushing the tool in a bit further?
> have used a fair bit of strength to pull the wire out?
> have kept the wire perfectly straight to the connector when trying to remove it?


i'm going to try again, but i've broken a lamptron tool and a sunbeam tool so far. i never got a paperclip to work either.


----------



## Big Elf

Although not cheap the *Molex 11-03-0044* is the best tool for the job.

I've not been impressed with the Lamptron tool as the prongs are made of an alloy similar to cheese and the prongs on the Sunbeam tool are too thin and not made of a decent spring steel.


----------



## Buklyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow water*
> 
> you do great work but why are you just doing extensions?


thanks shadow. It is because i will maybe change my PSU soon so it will be easier to remove


----------



## shadow water

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buklyne*
> 
> thanks shadow. It is because i will maybe change my PSU soon so it will be easier to remove


are you going to sleeve the new psu? or juast hide the unsleeved parts?


----------



## Buklyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow water*
> 
> are you going to sleeve the new psu? or juast hide the unsleeved parts?


I will hide it anyway.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> First attempt sleeving using Lutro0 Stiff line. Other connector was not yet attached so that is why it is not pictured.


Looks good, keep up the good work! I am interested in how you like it.


----------



## DarkHollow

Made an extension cord, since I only needed a short one.



Also made a power cable. Couldn't wait for plugs from china so chopped the plug off the lowest gauged cable I could find. I tossed on a wall plug from the hardware store, not a bad option if you can't wait for plugs from china.


----------



## TeamBlue




----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*


is that second one MDPC green?


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*


is that second one MDPC green?


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

So, I can start! I'm a little afraid to start hehe.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> is that second one MDPC green?


Nope, that's all paracord!


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I can only imagine how this would look with a green Gigabyte motherboard. = )


----------



## chase11

Here are some extentions I made with paracord the other day. The first ones I have ever made so they aren't perfect but pretty good I think








Heres the 24 pin:





The 8 pin:




and a 6+2 pin:




How did I do?


----------



## longroadtrip

Still have to train them, but here's my 24 pin and GPU cables...

http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/longroadtrip/media/IMG_5037_zps2bd97ad0.jpg.html


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Still have to train them, but here's my 24 pin and GPU cables...
> *SNIP*


Loving that _colour_ (Yes I'm British) combo


----------



## MNModder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*


Wow I love this color combo, is this para as well and what colors are they







awesome job

Edit: fixed sorry about that and I totally get the OCD thing I am a fellow brother in the pursuit of perfection


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNModder*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow I love this color combo, is this para as well and what colors are they
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> awesome job
Click to expand...

Thanks! Yeah, this is also paracord, colors are neon turquoise and neon orange. Both sets glow like mad under a blacklight, I've been trying to capture it correctly, but UV glow is by far and away the trickiest thing to capture.

Edit: fixed the quote nesting, OCD sucks.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> Loving that _colour_ (Yes I'm British) combo


Thanks! I'm pretty happy with the way they turned out...


----------



## BuToNz

Inspired by the other power cables here!


I'll admit, I'm no good at platting!


----------



## Noskcaj

How are you sleeving the 240V cables? can someone make a guide?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> How are you sleeving the 240V cables? can someone make a guide?


http://www.overclock.net/t/871183/guide-how-to-sleeve-a-psu-power-cord/0_20

This was made a while back. I hope it helps!


----------



## pexon




----------



## MrYakuZa




----------



## OzMan84

Hey guys,

Just wondering if you can help me with http://www.overclock.net/forum/newestpost/1389701

I want to try and place my first order over the weekend.


----------



## longroadtrip

Oz..you'll be fine...I would order 10 extra pins for each type of connector to practice with before you make your wires...that will give you a chance to get used to the wire and each style of pin..along with how they crimp...

Commented in your thread.


----------



## OzMan84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Oz..you'll be fine...I would order 10 extra pins for each type of connector to practice with before you make your wires...that will give you a chance to get used to the wire and each style of pin..along with how they crimp...
> 
> Commented in your thread.


Thanks for that. Just wasn't sure if I was getting the correct terminals for the correct connectors and the correct connectors for the correct wires. Will get a few extra as you suggested Thankyou


----------



## dandu5

Does anybody know where I can find paracord or other good quality textile sleeving that I can use for USB cables (external for peripherals)?
all the paracord i found is around 3mm diameter when I need around 5mm for shielded USB cables.

thanks.


----------



## SDBolts619

Finally took a few cool shots of my finished rig...

http://s9.photobucket.com/user/ERLoft/media/Blue Raven/DSC09483_zpsc4b42599.jpg.html

http://s9.photobucket.com/user/ERLoft/media/Blue Raven/DSC09508_zpscba1d51a.jpg.html

http://s9.photobucket.com/user/ERLoft/media/Blue Raven/DSC09521_zps9cba116f.jpg.html

http://s9.photobucket.com/user/ERLoft/media/Blue Raven/DSC09532_zpsf6c742c4.jpg.html

http://s9.photobucket.com/user/ERLoft/media/Blue Raven/DSC09536_zps3b80a848.jpg.html

http://s9.photobucket.com/user/ERLoft/media/Blue Raven/DSC09537_zps27669872.jpg.html

http://s9.photobucket.com/user/ERLoft/media/Blue Raven/DSC09545_zpse22fe457.jpg.html

Not as perfect as some of the jobs here, but given it was my first go at sleeving and I made all the cables from scratch, I'm pretty happy with the results. Thanks much to Lutro0 for the several orders! It will probably be a while before I do something like this again, but I now know not to skimp on ordering any supplies - especially pins!


----------



## Destrto

Hey guys, I have a quick question about sleeving, if anyone is generally knowledgeable in the area.

Im looking into paracord, but all I'm finding is 5/32" diameter.

Do you think this would be a large enough diameter to fit 2 wires inside?


----------



## Noskcaj

I'm getting a new PSU soon, What ones have the best default sleeving?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Hey just got a quick question about paracord, im thinking of sleeving my psu with it instead of the Furryletters stuff i have will this Black & maybe Blue be good stuff to use?

Thanks


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dandu5*
> 
> Does anybody know where I can find paracord or other good quality textile sleeving that I can use for USB cables (external for peripherals)?
> all the paracord i found is around 3mm diameter when I need around 5mm for shielded USB cables.
> 
> thanks.


Not that I know of. As for as I can tell all paracord is made to the same specs. Maybe someone can chime in and give a link, but I havnt seen any.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a quick question about sleeving, if anyone is generally knowledgeable in the area.
> 
> Im looking into paracord, but all I'm finding is 5/32" diameter.
> 
> Do you think this would be a large enough diameter to fit 2 wires inside?


I have been able to fit 2x14Ga wires and a smaller single 22Ga wire into one single strand of Paracord. I did it for some fans I have, so that there is only one "wire" running to the fans. It is tough though let me warn you. Plus it will need to be extra long, because as the paracord stretches in diameter, it shrinks in length
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Hey just got a quick question about paracord, im thinking of sleeving my psu with it instead of the Furryletters stuff i have will this Black & maybe Blue be good stuff to use?
> 
> Thanks


As far as I know, all paracord is created equal. Unless you get the coreless stuff from Lutroo. Personally I love the look and feel of paracord over other sleeving. I have some MDPC for the harder to sleeve wires though, such as USB, Sata, and other cables that paracord wont work with. I have yet to try Lutroos sleeve though...


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> As far as I know, all paracord is created equal. Unless you get the coreless stuff from Lutroo. Personally I love the look and feel of paracord over other sleeving. I have some MDPC for the harder to sleeve wires though, such as USB, Sata, and other cables that paracord wont work with. I have yet to try Lutroos sleeve though...


Ah ok cool







i have paracord i used for my mouse and Furryletters that i started using in my case... paracord is so much better and easier to work with







. im not gonna bother with sata and usb so im good for that


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Not that I know of. As for as I can tell all paracord is made to the same specs. Maybe someone can chime in and give a link, but I havnt seen any.
> I have been able to fit 2x14Ga wires and a smaller single 22Ga wire into one single strand of Paracord. I did it for some fans I have, so that there is only one "wire" running to the fans. It is tough though let me warn you. Plus it will need to be extra long, because as the paracord stretches in diameter, it shrinks in length
> As far as I know, all paracord is created equal. Unless you get the coreless stuff from Lutroo. Personally I love the look and feel of paracord over other sleeving. I have some MDPC for the harder to sleeve wires though, such as USB, Sata, and other cables that paracord wont work with. I have yet to try Lutroos sleeve though...


Ok, thanks for the info, I just ordered 100 ft of both colors I want. So ill see what you're referring to soon enough.

My plan is to wire 2 wires each from molex,sata power, 24 pin etc.. into one strand of paracord. So instead of single sleeving everything it wil be sort of a double sleeve.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Not that I know of. As for as I can tell all paracord is made to the same specs. Maybe someone can chime in and give a link, but I havnt seen any.
> I have been able to fit 2x14Ga wires and a smaller single 22Ga wire into one single strand of Paracord. I did it for some fans I have, so that there is only one "wire" running to the fans. It is tough though let me warn you. Plus it will need to be extra long, because as the paracord stretches in diameter, it shrinks in length
> As far as I know, all paracord is created equal. Unless you get the coreless stuff from Lutroo. Personally I love the look and feel of paracord over other sleeving. I have some MDPC for the harder to sleeve wires though, such as USB, Sata, and other cables that paracord wont work with. I have yet to try Lutroos sleeve though...


All paracord is definitely not created equal. Rothco is decent stuff, but Atwood is really good and Elite is damn near perfect. One thing to keep in mind is that the same color name between two companies does not necessarily equal the same color. Also the exact color varies from batch to batch, so don't expect to order more of the same later and have it match perfectly.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> All paracord is definitely not created equal. Rothco is decent stuff, but Atwood is really good and Elite is damn near perfect. One thing to keep in mind is that the same color name between two companies does not necessarily equal the same color. Also the exact color varies from batch to batch, so don't expect to order more of the same later and have it match perfectly.


RIght, I've read that too about paracord. That is why I ordered 100ft, so I'll have plenty to work with from the same color batch.


----------



## pexon

More work from today....


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> Finally took a few cool shots of my finished rig...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s9.photobucket.com/user/ERLoft/media/Blue Raven/DSC09483_zpsc4b42599.jpg.html
> 
> http://s9.photobucket.com/user/ERLoft/media/Blue Raven/DSC09508_zpscba1d51a.jpg.html
> 
> http://s9.photobucket.com/user/ERLoft/media/Blue Raven/DSC09521_zps9cba116f.jpg.html
> 
> http://s9.photobucket.com/user/ERLoft/media/Blue Raven/DSC09532_zpsf6c742c4.jpg.html
> 
> http://s9.photobucket.com/user/ERLoft/media/Blue Raven/DSC09536_zps3b80a848.jpg.html
> 
> http://s9.photobucket.com/user/ERLoft/media/Blue Raven/DSC09537_zps27669872.jpg.html
> 
> http://s9.photobucket.com/user/ERLoft/media/Blue Raven/DSC09545_zpse22fe457.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> Not as perfect as some of the jobs here, but given it was my first go at sleeving and I made all the cables from scratch, I'm pretty happy with the results. Thanks much to Lutro0 for the several orders! It will probably be a while before I do something like this again, but I now know not to skimp on ordering any supplies - especially pins!


Hey whats that clear stuff wrapped around the cables to keep them together? It makes it look so neat









Thanks









Also awesome build, sleevings well done


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Hey whats that clear stuff wrapped around the cables to keep them together? It makes it look so neat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also awesome build, sleevings well done


its cable sewing here is a tutorial from FrankNstein PC:


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> its cable sewing here is a tutorial from FrankNstein PC:


Ah thanks


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Started sleeving my sata data cables with MDPC white



Soon the 'real' cables are getting worked on


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Ah thanks


no problem, always here to help


----------



## samehsameh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Started sleeving my sata data cables with MDPC white
> 
> 
> 
> Soon the 'real' cables are getting worked on


Should have taped the cable first with white electrical tape, would like even better then.


----------



## GunSkillet

Sorry if this gets asked a lot, but I looked in the a good few pages back in the thread, searched, and googled but couldn't find anything. How are people sleeving USB cables with paracord now? Is there a guide or tutorial somewhere? Thanks in advance.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samehsameh*
> 
> Should have taped the cable first with white electrical tape, would like even better then.


Yup I know, but I don't mind


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunSkillet*
> 
> Sorry if this gets asked a lot, but I looked in the a good few pages back in the thread, searched, and googled but couldn't find anything. How are people sleeving USB cables with paracord now? Is there a guide or tutorial somewhere? Thanks in advance.


All you need to know


----------



## OzMan84

I am thinking that I will need to extend my current fan cables (Fractal Design Silent Series R2 140mm Fan) but rather then creating extensions I would like to know if it was safe enough to cut the mobo connector off, solder 18awg to the end and add a new mobo connector?

If it is, would the 3 cables fit snug within MDPC sleeving?


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Just un-solder the 3 wires from the fan itself and add an extension there, no need to cut the wires. Although it would be cleaner to just make new longer wires so you don't get the slight bulge in the sleeve where you soldered the wires together


----------



## GunSkillet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> All you need to know


I already know about lutro0, He doesn't have a video on how to sleeve USB cables.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunSkillet*
> 
> I already know about lutro0, He doesn't have a video on how to sleeve USB cables.


With MDPC, or braided sleeving, yes. Not with Paracord.


----------



## GunSkillet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> With MDPC, or braided sleeving, yes. Not with Paracord.


I was asking about these:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*
> 
> More work from today....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*






Several of these are using paracord


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunSkillet*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> With MDPC, or braided sleeving, yes. Not with Paracord.
> 
> 
> 
> I was asking about these:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pexon*
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pexon*
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pexon*
> 
> More work from today....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pexon*
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several of these are using paracord
Click to expand...

Sadly the guy appears to only advertise his services/products on here for free. He doesn't seem to be prepared to contribute to the community. You can understand it though, if he explained how he did it he'd lose sales.


----------



## longroadtrip

Sleeved my pump and set it up for a direct connection to the PSU...


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunSkillet*
> 
> I already know about lutro0, He doesn't have a video on how to sleeve USB cables.


Ask this guy


----------



## OzMan84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Just un-solder the 3 wires from the fan itself and add an extension there, no need to cut the wires. Although it would be cleaner to just make new longer wires so you don't get the slight bulge in the sleeve where you soldered the wires together


I have read somewhere that people have pulled apart a CAT5e cable and used some of those wires for fans? Would this work without frying anything?


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzMan84*
> 
> I have read somewhere that people have pulled apart a CAT5e cable and used some of those wires for fans? Would this work without frying anything?


Yep, that will work. most fans are either 22 or 24 awg, and cat5e is 24awg, 23 if you have some extra awesome stuff or cat6. You might try to find some with stranded core, usually the cheaper pre-made cables are made with stranded.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Sadly the guy appears to only advertise his services/products on here for free. He doesn't seem to be prepared to contribute to the community. You can understand it though, if he explained how he did it he'd lose sales.


Super Secret USB cables?
Go here: http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/overview/6124112/USB-connectors;jsessionid=1A032F557EEF96501D4B48B26EDD4F7A.ASTPCEN20

Make your own cables, put whatever sleeve you want on them. There really isn't another way to do it, paracord won't expand over the connector.


----------



## Destrto

Question for the experts.

I'm sleeving my molex connectors with the multiple heads with *paracord*. Is there any trick to getting it over those double wire connectors?


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Question for the experts.
> 
> I'm sleeving my molex connectors with the multiple heads with *paracord*. Is there any trick to getting it over those double wire connectors?


Yep, there's a trick. Cut a slit in the paracord about 1/4" long and put the cut side in between the two wires. That way the paracord will be able to run up over the bump in the terminal allowing you to melt it in without distorting or popping out of the connector. Also, be careful not to melt it too far back.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Yep, there's a trick. Cut a slit in the paracord about 1/4" long and put the cut side in between the two wires. That way the paracord will be able to run up over the bump in the terminal allowing you to melt it in without distorting or popping out of the connector. Also, be careful not to melt it too far back.


OK, I think I'm understanding some of what you're saying, but I can't quite picture it. Can you explain it in a little more detail? A 1/4" slit at one end of the paracord?


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> OK, I think I'm understanding some of what you're saying, but I can't quite picture it. Can you explain it in a little more detail? A 1/4" slit at one end of the paracord?


Yeah. The end that covers the double wire needs to have a 1/4" or 1/2" slit lengthwise. When you put the paracord over the wire you need to align the slit toward the crotch of the wires so that it can make its way on to the pin
If you don't cut the slit, you end up with what you don't want, which is on the left:

.

If you cut the slit, you will end up with the awesome drawing on the right!


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Yeah. The end that covers the double wire needs to have a 1/4" or 1/2" slit lengthwise. When you put the paracord over the wire you need to align the slit toward the crotch of the wires so that it can make its way on to the pin
> If you don't cut the slit, you end up with what you don't want, which is on the left:
> 
> .
> 
> If you cut the slit, you will end up with the awesome drawing on the right!


I gotcha. I'll work on that and see how it works for me.


----------



## BuToNz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I gotcha. I'll work on that and see how it works for me.


Here's a couple I've done using this method, might help you out


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuToNz*
> 
> Here's a couple I've done using this method, might help you out


I can see moreof how you did it there. Did you just shove the paracord over the connector to get it to the other side? Mine had to go over 3 connectors.


----------



## Devious Dog

Just finished my first couple connectors with some MDPC-X sleeve, black and color-x



How I am keeping all my sleeving together, I have not seen anyone else do this so it might be wrong to do but I like things hidden.

I have done some light stitching on the inside of the sleeve trying to keep all off one row in alignment, the other row is then also done but lined up and stitched as close as possible. Then once I have done all the stitching on the inside I then put the two rows of sleeving together as they should be and then did some very light stitching in between the sleeve holding the two inner stitching in place.. just really looping around the two inner stitches.



I know the following picture is really bad, I will take another one when I get a chance.

This is my Y split on one of my ATX cables. I put all the ends of the sleeve together and then used some heat shrink that did not close fully so I could melt all the ends toghether, once cooled I could then pull the sleeving and do the heat shrinkless method on the connector ends.


----------



## briddell

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devious Dog*
> 
> Just finished my first couple connectors with some MDPC-X sleeve, black and color-x
> 
> 
> 
> How I am keeping all my sleeving together, I have not seen anyone else do this so it might be wrong to do but I like things hidden.
> 
> I have done some light stitching on the inside of the sleeve trying to keep all off one row in alignment, the other row is then also done but lined up and stitched as close as possible. Then once I have done all the stitching on the inside I then put the two rows of sleeving together as they should be and then did some very light stitching in between the sleeve holding the two inner stitching in place.. just really looping around the two inner stitches.
> 
> 
> 
> I know the following picture is really bad, I will take another one when I get a chance.
> 
> This is my Y split on one of my ATX cables. I put all the ends of the sleeve together and then used some heat shrink that did not close fully so I could melt all the ends toghether, once cooled I could then pull the sleeving and do the heat shrinkless method on the connector ends.






Looks tight! Nice job


----------



## Devious Dog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> 
> Looks tight! Nice job


Thanks, just a shame I did my PCI-E cables with the heat shrink method and now I want to re do with the heat shrink less way but I have ran out of sleeve.. Finally was able to place an order last night with MDPC-X and Nils has posted.. so now just the wait in postal service from Germany to Australia.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I can see moreof how you did it there. Did you just shove the paracord over the connector to get it to the other side? Mine had to go over 3 connectors.


You'll probably have to cut and re-crimp, here's a pic of a finished product. I build new cables, I've found that it takes more time to de-pin, cut off sleeve, and re-pin than it does to just make new cables.



I honestly don't know if it's ok to link you to an album on facebook or not, so PM me if you'd like to see more.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> You'll probably have to cut and re-crimp, here's a pic of a finished product. I build new cables, I've found that it takes more time to de-pin, cut off sleeve, and re-pin than it does to just make new cables.
> 
> 
> 
> I honestly don't know if it's ok to link you to an album on facebook or not, so PM me if you'd like to see more.


I'm actually just about finished with my dual molex cable sleeving. And I agree, I wished I had the money to buy wire, connectors and pins instead of trying to fight with this paracord over these pins.

Mine may not look the prettiest like all these I see on here. You guys all make your stuff look like its showroom ready. And mine, just...well, let's not talk about mine right now.

I think its OK to post an album, I saw somebody post one for B-Neg a couple days ago. But I could be mistaken.

I think what I will attempt to do tomorrow, is to sleeve my 24pin and other cables that are hardwired into the PSU, and just leave the sleeve melted down flat inside the PSU case. It looks like I'll have enough room in the opening to do that.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I'm actually just about finished with my dual molex cable sleeving. And I agree, I wished I had the money to buy wire, connectors and pins instead of trying to fight with this paracord over these pins.
> 
> Mine may not look the prettiest like all these I see on here. You guys all make your stuff look like its showroom ready. And mine, just...well, let's not talk about mine right now.
> 
> I think its OK to post an album, I saw somebody post one for B-Neg a couple days ago. But I could be mistaken.
> 
> I think what I will attempt to do tomorrow, is to sleeve my 24pin and other cables that are hardwired into the PSU, and just leave the sleeve melted down flat inside the PSU case. It looks like I'll have enough room in the opening to do that.


Ok, here's a thing


----------



## Destrto

Looks really nice. I hope to be that talented one day.


----------



## Devious Dog

Very nice, waiting for my next delivery from MDPC-X so I can start on those. Loads of inspiration in here to keep my motivated


----------



## longroadtrip

Temp sensors, Power/Reset leads, and an internal USB cable...









http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/l...Labs Mercury S3/IMG_5103_zps7051011c.jpg.html


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



You'll probably have to cut and re-crimp, here's a pic of a finished product. I build new cables, I've found that it takes more time to de-pin, cut off sleeve, and re-pin than it does to just make new cables.



I honestly don't know if it's ok to link you to an album on facebook or not, so PM me if you'd like to see more.[/spolier]

Please show me how you did that so cleanly. I was just trying to do that myself without heatshrink and I'm struggling at how to get it so clean.


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Temp sensors, Power/Reset leads, and an internal USB cable...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/l...Labs Mercury S3/IMG_5103_zps7051011c.jpg.html


carefull with those temp sensors, mine leaked (both of them) make sure good sealing area for o ring, these dont like narrow wall fittings


----------



## longroadtrip

Thanks for the heads up on them!


----------



## KONA604

Hey guys im trying to sleeve my Cosair HX650 PSU i have never done cable sleeving before i got my self some heat shrink and sleeving off frozencpu.com and using the Sun beam tech ATX pin tool i cant get the pins apart ive watched a tonne of tutorials and even tried using filed down paper clips and staples to get these things apart but nothing has worked got any tips on how i can get these apart?

The tool looks like it does not want to go far enough into the plug it goes in pretty far but i dont hear the click and when i try to push it in a bit further it wont budge









any suggestions would be awesome


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KONA604*
> 
> Hey guys im trying to sleeve my Cosair HX650 PSU i have never done cable sleeving before i got my self some heat shrink and sleeving off frozencpu.com and using the Sun beam tech ATX pin tool i cant get the pins apart ive watched a tonne of tutorials and even tried using filed down paper clips and staples to get these things apart but nothing has worked got any tips on how i can get these apart?
> 
> The tool looks like it does not want to go far enough into the plug it goes in pretty far but i dont hear the click and when i try to push it in a bit further it wont budge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any suggestions would be awesome


I use the same removal tool. A lot of people will tell you it is garbage, but it takes a bit of finesse and a bit of a tender touch to get it to work right.

You have to carefully try to wedge each lip of the tool down either side of the connector you're trying to remove. Many times it will seem as though it slid down inside easily, but if you look relly carefully, you'll see that one of the lips has fallen on the wrong side of the pin.

What I personally do, is wiggle the wire the pin is connected to so that I can see that it is even on either side of the plastic connector as I'm looking down at it, then try to fit the tool down either side slowly.

If it slides in easily without much resistance, chances are one of the lips of the tool is not on the right side of the pin.
It takes practice, but I've gotten to where I can fairly easily unpin any of the connectors with that tool.

My tool does not click either, but I've learned that when I feel resistance against the lips of the tool, I have them on the right sides of the pin. I am uploading a few pics to hopefully get a view of what I'm trying to describe.


----------



## KONA604

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I use the same removal tool. A lot of people will tell you it is garbage, but it takes a bit of finesse and a bit of a tender touch to get it to work right.
> 
> You have to carefully try to wedge each lip of the tool down either side of the connector you're trying to remove. Many times it will seem as though it slid down inside easily, but if you look relly carefully, you'll see that one of the lips has fallen on the wrong side of the pin.
> 
> What I personally do, is wiggle the wire the pin is connected to so that I can see that it is even on either side of the plastic connector as I'm looking down at it, then try to fit the tool down either side slowly.
> 
> If it slides in easily without much resistance, chances are one of the lips of the tool is not on the right side of the pin.
> It takes practice, but I've gotten to where I can fairly easily unpin any of the connectors with that tool.
> 
> My tool does not click either, but I've learned that when I feel resistance against the lips of the tool, I have them on the right sides of the pin. I am uploading a few pics to hopefully get a view of what I'm trying to describe.


Sweet thanks for the feedback man im going to try that right now ill let you now if i can get it to go


----------



## TeamBlue

getting my seasonic platinum x1000 from mr. fedex tomorrow, good thing too because I ran out of stuff to sleeve lol.


----------



## KONA604

Alright so i looked and the tool is going on each side of the pin and it slides in with a little pressure but when it hit a certain depth its like it hits a wall ive tried pushing it in while moving the wire around and moving the wire in and out and nothing has changed.

I even tried filing the tool a bit thinner to give it a bit more clearance but that failed as well ive been at this for a few hours now and have not had any luck


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KONA604*
> 
> Alright so i looked and the tool is going on each side of the pin and it slides in with a little pressure but when it hit a certain depth its like it hits a wall ive tried pushing it in while moving the wire around and moving the wire in and out and nothing has changed.
> 
> I even tried filing the tool a bit thinner to give it a bit more clearance but that failed as well ive been at this for a few hours now and have not had any luck


You see how the ends of the tool have the point? I actually clipped those off of mine too. I dont know if it made any difference. But thats probably the only difference between mine and yours.
Here are a few pics if that might help.

Here I tried to show the pin even within the opening. Each lip of the tool will go on the outer side of the pin.

If you can see it, I tried to show the lips on the outer edges of the pin.

Hope this helps at all. I know this tool is finnicky and wants to fight you with alot of pins, but it does eventually work.

Also, as I'm sure you've noticed already, the tool is very soft metal, so dont try to get rough or force anything. If it wont go with slight pressure, back out and try again. It took me a few times to notice that one lip of the tool was'nt actually on the outer edge of the pin, but had slipped onto the inside.


----------



## KONA604

yeah i have know about the weak metal but you can still apply quite a lot of force as long as you keep it straight as soon as you move a bit side to side it bends

I have them on each side of the pin everytime but it wont let me push it in deep enough


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KONA604*
> 
> yeah i have know about the weak metal but you can still apply quite a lot of force as long as you keep it straight as soon as you move a bit side to side it bends
> 
> I have them on each side of the pin everytime but it wont let me push it in deep enough


The only thing I can suggest that might have made a difference in removing the pins easier, is to clip off the sharpened ends of the tool. For some reason, while I was looking at it, it seemed as though the angled ends would not allow the locking pins to be detached enough for the pin to slide out.

I also had to tug quite a bit on some wires in order for them to pull out. But the tool is only supposed to go in so far, you arent supposed to have it go all the way flush. There is maybe a little less than an 1/8" or less depth inside those holes where the locking pins are held.


----------



## KONA604

so im working on a cable that i will never need in my build (Bitfenix prodigy m-ITX) it is a extra sata power to the 6 pin and i was like **** it im going to give this a thing a good tug with the tool in the end and the result was the wire coming out but the pin staying in im getting frustraded with this and i am considering buying new connectors and some pins and just cuting the wires and then just doing it that way


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KONA604*
> 
> so im working on a cable that i will never need in my build (Bitfenix prodigy m-ITX) it is a extra sata power to the 6 pin and i was like **** it im going to give this a thing a good tug with the tool in the end and the result was the wire coming out but the pin staying in im getting frustraded with this and i am considering buying new connectors and some pins and just cuting the wires and then just doing it that way


If you're pulling that hard and the pin still isnt coming out, then you dont have the tool in properly. I know this because I did the very same thing, I pulled on the wire so hard that the wire itself came out of the pin while the pin stayed inside the connector.

I admit, it is very tricky to get those lips of the tool just right, but when you do, you'll notice a difference it the way it feels when you push the tool down.
Trust me, I got plenty frustrated with this tool at first too. I found things got quite a bit easier once i started slowing everything down and taking notice of whether the tool was inserted properly or not.


----------



## OzMan84

Hey,

Just wondering what the thickest AWG cable that can fit into Paracord? As I want to sleeve all the Case cables (the ones that come with the R4) but not sure if they will all fit in Paracord or not


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzMan84*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> Just wondering what the thickest AWG cable that can fit into Paracord? As I want to sleeve all the Case cables (the ones that come with the R4) but not sure if they will all fit in Paracord or not


Honestly it depends on what paracord you're using. 14 Gauge is probably going to be pretty close to the max.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzMan84*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> Just wondering what the thickest AWG cable that can fit into Paracord? As I want to sleeve all the Case cables (the ones that come with the R4) but not sure if they will all fit in Paracord or not


I tried fitting 2 wires from a Thermaltake Blackwidow into one sleeve of 550, and while they both fit, it was very tight. I believe these wires are 16AWG? Don't quote me on that though.


----------



## OzMan84

Thanks for the help guys







I have decided to use MDPC sleeving as I need to sleeve SATA cables anyway.

Placed my first order with Lutro0 for the tools, connectors, terminals, cable and going to order the sleeving on Sunday hopefully from MDPC when he opens.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzMan84*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> Just wondering what the thickest AWG cable that can fit into Paracord? As I want to sleeve all the Case cables (the ones that come with the R4) but not sure if they will all fit in Paracord or not


You can fit 3 fan cables in one, or two to three of my thin 18awg I carry in stock. Also my coreless paracord can handle a bit more then normal paracord as it has not been stretched out yet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> You'll probably have to cut and re-crimp, here's a pic of a finished product. I build new cables, I've found that it takes more time to de-pin, cut off sleeve, and re-pin than it does to just make new cables.
> 
> 
> 
> I honestly don't know if it's ok to link you to an album on facebook or not, so PM me if you'd like to see more.


Thats great work as its not easy to do that heatshrinkless style! Great job!


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Is there a reason solid core wire is not used for sleeving? Theoretically it should hold it's shape better.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Is there a reason solid core wire is not used for sleeving? Theoretically it should hold it's shape better.


It doesn't crimp the same...the crimps are designed for stranded wires.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> It doesn't crimp the same...the crimps are designed for stranded wires.


Ahh alright, thanks!
I knew there had to be a reason.


----------



## Norse

Anyone got suggestions for someone in UK/EU that could do custome Extensions? i want purple and black but only found one place that does them and the guy isnt responding to me atm


----------



## jd2195

Contact Pexon at http://www.pexonpcs.bigcartel.com/.
He has posted a lot of his work on this thread and it is incredible.


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Norse*
> 
> Anyone got suggestions for someone in UK/EU that could do custome Extensions? i want purple and black but only found one place that does them and the guy isnt responding to me atm


Pexon or ShakMods, most of the sleevers ship internationally


----------



## Norse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> Pexon or ShakMods, most of the sleevers ship internationally


Shakmods is the guy that went quiet on me


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Is there a reason solid core wire is not used for sleeving? Theoretically it should hold it's shape better.


What LRT said, however the right combo can be used and it works fine. But the wire has to be perfect for it.


----------



## pexon

Some of my new style cables with black terminations

http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09004_zps7f881f6e.jpg.html

http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09006_zpsf45a80a5.jpg.html

http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09009_zpse87c24e6.jpg.html

http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09010_zps18c2c61a.jpg.html


----------



## Devious Dog

Got some very basic question before I redo my sleeving. Is it best to use normal hook up wire 18AWG or use Pure-Silicone Wire 18AWG.

Additionally when wiring your PSU wires is it okay to just use 16AWFG for all the strands or should I keep to what the manufacturer has done, 16AWG, 18AWG and 24AWG on my AX1200. I do remember seeing someone use 16AWG for all his 16 and 18AWG wires.

Just needing to know as this wire is crazy price in Australia and I have to order internationally and I don't want to stuff up my order.

Oh, I will be sleeving with the heat shrink less method with MDPC-X sleeving.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

A little preview of whats to come for my baby







. I originally had Furryletters cc black but I didnt like the look, it was to shiny for my taste so I went with paracord its gonna be shrinkless











All up it cost me $36.15 for the 100ft of Black and Royal Blue 550 7 strand











I am loving the blue its gonna look sexy in my rig


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> All up it cost me $36.15 for the 100ft of Black and Royal Blue 550 7 strand


Dude, you are paying too much for paracord. I know of a guy in QLD who sells it for $11.40 for a 100 foot hank. Sometimes he even has specials for $10. I get mine from him and he has great customer service and a nice guy. You can find him at www.camscords.com or on Facebook.


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Some of my new style cables with black terminations
> 
> http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09004_zps7f881f6e.jpg.html
> 
> http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09006_zpsf45a80a5.jpg.html
> 
> http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09009_zpse87c24e6.jpg.html
> 
> http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09010_zps18c2c61a.jpg.html


Sweet job! How do you get the sleeving under the terminals?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> Dude, you are paying too much for paracord. I know of a guy in QLD who sells it for $11.40 for a 100 foot hank. Sometimes he even has specials for $10. I get mine from him and he has great customer service and a nice guy. You can find him at www.camscords.com or on Facebook.


I paid $13.15 for each 100ft and $10 shipping, I could only really find Extac at the time







.

Why the hell didnt camscords show up when i googled???







thanks tho









Heres a PCI power cable i just did, sorry for the crap pics I couldnt take a good pic to save my life









Dont mind my name on the paper















I dont think it went to bad for my first try at shrinkless paracord







.

The only thing thats annoying me is that damn capacitor







can I have it down at the PSU end of the connector or will that stuff the power flow?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I paid $13.15 for each 100ft and $10 shipping, I could only really find Extac at the time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Why the hell didnt camscords show up when i googled???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Heres a PCI power cable i just did, sorry for the crap pics I couldnt take a good pic to save my life
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dont mind my name on the paper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont think it went to bad for my first try at shrinkless paracord
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> The only thing thats annoying me is that damn capacitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can I have it down at the PSU end of the connector or will that stuff the power flow?


What exactly is the Capacitor on there for? Sorry if I missed part of the conversation somewhere.

Secondly, I was given this link for some 550 Paracord. Great deals HERE IMO.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> What exactly is the Capacitor on there for? Sorry if I missed part of the conversation somewhere.
> 
> Secondly, I was given this link for some 550 Paracord. Great deals HERE IMO.


Um tbh I dunno why its there, it just came like that when i bought it







and all my PCI cables have it









Wow nice prices and cheap shipping to







lol Im good for paracord atm but if I ever need anymore I'll check both shops thanks


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Um tbh I dunno why its there, it just came like that when i bought it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and all my PCI cables have it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow nice prices and cheap shipping to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol Im good for paracord atm but if I ever need anymore I'll check both shops thanks


No problem, it was posted to me in my build log, thought they were really good deals, the guy ships extremely quickly too. Figured i would share what I had to a fellow OCN member.

Thats strange about the capacitors though, I've personally never seen a PSU with cables that had those attached.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Thats strange about the capacitors though, I've personally never seen a PSU with cables that had those attached.


It seems to be a weird thing Silverstone do, it looks like its done on most of there bronze and silver power supplys


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> It seems to be a weird thing Silverstone do, it looks like its done on most of there bronze and silver power supplys


Found it..
". To reduce electrical whine/buzz associated with high performance graphics card's dynamic loading changes, 2200uF capacitors are attached to PCI-E connectors. This design also helps to maintain better voltage stability and improve ripple & noise performance. "


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Found it..
> ". To reduce electrical whine/buzz associated with high performance graphics card's dynamic loading changes, 2200uF capacitors are attached to PCI-E connectors. This design also helps to maintain better voltage stability and improve ripple & noise performance. "


Ah lol so probably best not to stuff with it i think







might just heatshrink it to hide it


----------



## pexon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> Sweet job! How do you get the sleeving under the terminals?


I dont mate, they are made by hand, by me!


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*
> 
> I dont mate, they are made by hand, by me!


Sweet! Do you have a tutorial or a few tips for me on how to do them?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devious Dog*
> 
> Just needing to know as this wire is crazy price in Australia and I have to order internationally and I don't want to stuff up my order.


I'm sure you can buy copper stranded wire in Australia, you don't particularly need to buy 16AWG or 18AWG, just find the equivalent Australian size. See here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge


----------



## pexon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> Sweet! Do you have a tutorial or a few tips for me on how to do them?


No tutorial made up, I'm still working off my phone and sisters iPad until I get my PC running again


----------



## OzMan84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*
> 
> No tutorial made up, I'm still working off my phone and sisters iPad until I get my PC running again


I'd be interested to see how you make them aswell mate









Can't wait for my MDPC & Lutro0 packages to arrive, only problem is the waiting time for my goodies to arrive in Australia


----------



## Devious Dog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I'm sure you can buy copper stranded wire in Australia, you don't particularly need to buy 16AWG or 18AWG, just find the equivalent Australian size. See here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge


My question was this?
Quote:


> Got some very basic question before I redo my sleeving. Is it best to use normal hook up wire 18AWG or use Pure-Silicone Wire 18AWG.
> 
> Additionally when wiring your PSU wires is it okay to just use 16AWFG for all the strands or should I keep to what the manufacturer has done, 16AWG, 18AWG and 24AWG on my AX1200. I do remember seeing someone use 16AWG for all his 16 and 18AWG wires.


I am not willing to spend AU$5.00 per meter for this wire from Australia, not when I can get the same wire from the US for $0.51 such as Hobbyking.com


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devious Dog*
> 
> My question was this?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Got some very basic question before I redo my sleeving. Is it best to use normal hook up wire 18AWG or use Pure-Silicone Wire 18AWG.
> 
> Additionally when wiring your PSU wires is it okay to just use 16AWFG for all the strands or should I keep to what the manufacturer has done, 16AWG, 18AWG and 24AWG on my AX1200. I do remember seeing someone use 16AWG for all his 16 and 18AWG wires.
> 
> 
> 
> I am not willing to spend AU$5.00 per meter for this wire from Australia, not when I can get the same wire from the US for $0.51 such as Hobbyking.com
Click to expand...

You don't need pure silicone wire, just regular stranded copper wire. That's what I meant with my previous answer: I'm sure there is plenty of suitable wire available in Australia for much less than $5 per meter and probably also less than $0.51. Just make sure it has 0.75mm2 core or larger, and for MDPC the outside diameter including insulation should be between 1.9mm and 2.3mm for best stretching.

Usual advice about 16 AWG is that it's unnecessary except maybe with an SLI setup where three or four cards are drawing some of the 12V power through the motherboard. But of course there's no harm in using thicker wire if you can find any with outside diameter < 2.3mm.


----------



## Big Elf

There seems to be some anomalies with the wire prices in Australia. The same wire that costs *$66AUD* for 100 Metres in Australia costs me *$24AUD* in the UK.

Edit: 24/0.2 wire is the metric equivalent of 18AWG.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> There seems to be some anomalies with the wire prices in Australia. The same wire that costs *$66AUD* for 100 Metres in Australia costs me *$24AUD* in the UK.


That's not an anomaly. That wire is made in a factory in Yorkshire. Of course it costs 16 quid in England and $66 if you ship it to Australia.

Locally produced wire will be cheaper.


----------



## SDBolts619

On the subject of capacitors for the PCI-E cables on Silverstone PSU's - quite a few people (myself included) have left them off when doing custom replacement cables. Although it does depend on which GPU you're running. Maybe on an overclocked or overvolted GTX 680 or Titan it could be worth leaving them in place, but I've noticed no difference or problems with my GTX 660 Ti cards...

I spoke with Joel @ Silverstone support and he said that they're best left at the GPU end of the cable - putting them at the PSU end reduces their effectiveness.

Of course, you've already got them in place, which is the hard part, so might as well leave them there...


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> There seems to be some anomalies with the wire prices in Australia. The same wire that costs *$66AUD* for 100 Metres in Australia costs me *$24AUD* in the UK.
> 
> 
> 
> That's not an anomaly. That wire is made in a factory in Yorkshire. Of course it costs 16 quid in England and $66 if you ship it to Australia.
> 
> Locally produced wire will be cheaper.
Click to expand...

Interesting, the label says China.


----------



## TeamBlue




----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Interesting, the label says China.


Alright, a big spool is made in China and shipped from there to Farnell in Leeds, and then Farnell cuts into smaller spools and ships it further


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> On the subject of capacitors for the PCI-E cables on Silverstone PSU's - quite a few people (myself included) have left them off when doing custom replacement cables. Although it does depend on which GPU you're running. Maybe on an overclocked or overvolted GTX 680 or Titan it could be worth leaving them in place, but I've noticed no difference or problems with my GTX 660 Ti cards...
> 
> I spoke with Joel @ Silverstone support and he said that they're best left at the GPU end of the cable - putting them at the PSU end reduces their effectiveness.
> 
> Of course, you've already got them in place, which is the hard part, so might as well leave them there...


Yeah i figured as much Im just gonna heatshink the capacitor and leave it at that, dont wanna stuff up my psu Im to broke to buy another


----------



## pexon

Got some more done today, as usual, some Mini USB cables.

http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09090_zps29c1d799.jpg.html

http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09091_zpsac73acb4.jpg.html

http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09088_zps5876014a.jpg.html

http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09095_zps71a94cd0.jpg.html


----------



## samehsameh

My first fully custom cable


----------



## GunSkillet

Spoiler: Warning: Nudes



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*
> 
> Got some more done today, as usual, some Mini USB cables.
> 
> http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09090_zps29c1d799.jpg.html
> 
> http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09091_zpsac73acb4.jpg.html
> 
> http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09088_zps5876014a.jpg.html
> 
> http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09095_zps71a94cd0.jpg.html





Please PLEASE make a tutorial.


----------



## XKaan

Anyone here sleeve an AX1200i?

I've sleeved a few PSU's before, but lately I'm reading there's something funky with the AX1200i where it's a pain to sleeve? Something about on the 24-pin some sockets have 2 wires going in, then they Y-off??

Anyone have any insight to this? I'm about to start sleeving mine this weekend when it arrives....


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Anyone here sleeve an AX1200i?
> 
> I've sleeved a few PSU's before, but lately I'm reading there's something funky with the AX1200i where it's a pain to sleeve? Something about on the 24-pin some sockets have 2 wires going in, then they Y-off??
> 
> Anyone have any insight to this? I'm about to start sleeving mine this weekend when it arrives....


Pretty much all PSUs have these double wires, except the recent Silverstone Gold Evolution range. Double wires are usually sense wires to help with adjusting voltage droop at high loads.


----------



## pexon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunSkillet*
> 
> Please PLEASE make a tutorial.


As I keep saying man, when I get a good video camera and mic, I will, but no sooner. I think my work is good quality and I will not post up a crappy video that isn't. When I do something I want it to be bang on and I will wait to get the right gear to ensure the tutorial is top notch.


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*
> 
> As I keep saying man, when I get a good video camera and mic, I will, but no sooner. I think my work is good quality and I will not post up a crappy video that isn't. When I do something I want it to be bang on and I will wait to get the right gear to ensure the tutorial is top notch.


Nothing wrong with using a standard camera and making a picture tutorial.


----------



## samehsameh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Anyone here sleeve an AX1200i?
> 
> I've sleeved a few PSU's before, but lately I'm reading there's something funky with the AX1200i where it's a pain to sleeve? Something about on the 24-pin some sockets have 2 wires going in, then they Y-off??
> 
> Anyone have any insight to this? I'm about to start sleeving mine this weekend when it arrives....


I'm sleeving my ax1200i, the 24pin only has 1 doubwire so it's actually pretty good to sleeve you only need to create 1 y cable for it. There's a pinout diagram on ocn for it
http://www.overclock.net/t/1354660/ax1200i-24-pin-question
I checked it with a multimeter before I started de pinning mine and it's correct.


----------



## XKaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samehsameh*
> 
> I'm sleeving my ax1200i, the 24pin only has 1 doubwire so it's actually pretty good to sleeve you only need to create 1 y cable for it. There's a pinout diagram on ocn for it
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1354660/ax1200i-24-pin-question
> I checked it with a multimeter before I started de pinning mine and it's correct.


Thanks for the info!


----------



## GunSkillet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*
> 
> As I keep saying man, when I get a good video camera and mic, I will, but no sooner. I think my work is good quality and I will not post up a crappy video that isn't. When I do something I want it to be bang on and I will wait to get the right gear to ensure the tutorial is top notch.


Can't disagree with that







Can't wait. +rep


----------



## nleksan

Anyone sleeved an NZXT HALE90 (original, not V2) semi-modular PSU?

I am really only concerned with the non-modular cables (24pin + 2x 8pin EPS + 2x 6+2pin PCI-Express + 1x 4-SATA Power), as I am going to make custom cables for all the modular ones. I have to use extensions for some of the non-modular cables as it is, and I'll likely end up NOT using the non-modular SATA Power Cable as A) I have one of the Silverstone 1x to 4x with the build-in capacitors and PERFECT spacing and B) I want to make some that have that perfect spacing between connectors so that there is no slack. Still, I want the cables coming out of the PSU to look good, even though to be honest they are barely visible at all....

Anyone who has sleeved one, I'd appreciate any input!

I'm thinking of doing all the cables (non-modular and custom modular) in paracord, with White as the primary color and perhaps a grey (medium shade, like a gunmetal?) as a secondary shade.... Any opinions on that?

here's how it looks now:


----------



## Gardnerphotos

what sort of wire should I use if I want to make custom length 3 pin fan extensions? And is there somewhere that sells it in the ribbon form, i.e. the three wires are still stuck together as that will make sleeving much easier!


----------



## Norse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> what sort of wire should I use if I want to make custom length 3 pin fan extensions? And is there somewhere that sells it in the ribbon form, i.e. the three wires are still stuck together as that will make sleeving much easier!


try Maplins? will at least let you physically look it over to check its right


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> what sort of wire should I use if I want to make custom length 3 pin fan extensions? And is there somewhere that sells it in the ribbon form, i.e. the three wires are still stuck together as that will make sleeving much easier!


AWG 24 or 26. I don't agree that ribbon wires will be easier to sleeve because the seam connecting them is at opposite sides of the middle wire, it will mean you can't quite get the wires to form an easy triangle.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> AWG 24 or 26. I don't agree that ribbon wires will be easier to sleeve because the seam connecting them is at opposite sides of the middle wire, it will mean you can't quite get the wires to form an easy triangle.


thanks +rep


----------



## pexon

Lots more cables

http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09130_zps5fcfe474.jpg.html

The ever popular Colour-X from MDPC

http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09140_zpscddd7386.jpg.html

Just a close up of the new heatshrink-less Micro USB cables coupled with the Micro > iPhone 4... lovely and clean. Here is it with my iPod.

http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09126_zps9110de68.jpg.html

http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09139_zps4d056c92.jpg.html

http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09136_zps8f546e8c.jpg.html

Finally, a cable ordered last night and made this morning.

http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09121_zpsea4e54ef.jpg.html


----------



## JAM3S121

if i want to sleeve a 3pin fan what size paracord/sleeving should I use and what about heat shrink?


----------



## Vakturion

This is my first cable, used the guide by Lutro0 for Molex.


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> if i want to sleeve a 3pin fan what size paracord/sleeving should I use and what about heat shrink?


I use sleeve 6mm diam ; with 10 mm heatshrink with adhesive; to get a solid connection between the sleeve and fan-connector .
The Heatshrink should be shrunk/heat with (Digital) Heat-Gun (by 200-250 celsius degree ) to avoid the adhesive melting .
Lutr0 made one video-guide about fan-sleeving: 



The difference is the size of the sleeve and the Heashrink diam, I preffer to use Heatshrink with adhesive in this case .....


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Anyone sleeved an NZXT HALE90 (original, not V2) semi-modular PSU?
> 
> I am really only concerned with the non-modular cables (24pin + 2x 8pin EPS + 2x 6+2pin PCI-Express + 1x 4-SATA Power), as I am going to make custom cables for all the modular ones. I have to use extensions for some of the non-modular cables as it is, and I'll likely end up NOT using the non-modular SATA Power Cable as A) I have one of the Silverstone 1x to 4x with the build-in capacitors and PERFECT spacing and B) I want to make some that have that perfect spacing between connectors so that there is no slack. Still, I want the cables coming out of the PSU to look good, even though to be honest they are barely visible at all....
> 
> Anyone who has sleeved one, I'd appreciate any input!
> 
> I'm thinking of doing all the cables (non-modular and custom modular) in paracord, with White as the primary color and perhaps a grey (medium shade, like a gunmetal?) as a secondary shade.... Any opinions on that?
> 
> here's how it looks now:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great looking system man.

As for not using the hard wire SATA connectors while only using the modular side, it wont be a problem. I have a semi-modular PSU and have made custom PCIe sleeved wires for the modular side, but the hardwire side still has 2 6+2 PCIe wires. I am using one of the hardwired cables to power all my 12V components(replaced all MOLEX 4 pin connectors that only need 2 wires and a 12v source, pumps, fan adapter, cathode inverter, ect and replaced them with Mini-Tamiya connectors) with a custom made wire adapter. The other is just back there taking up space.

I didnt do that for a look, I did it like that so if I have to RMA this PSU, all the hardwired cables are unmodded and should easily be RMAable. I only cut up, and made new, the modular cables.

And IMO, if you plan on sleeving your sata cables, and have a bunch of drives close together, dont sleeve the small pieces between the connectors. I would use just colored wire for the short pieces, as I have found this to be much cleaner finish even if the rest of the cable is sleeved. Just not a good way of securing the sleeving on such a small area with nowhere to attach the sleeve. I would also recommend connectors like these, because they are just punch style connectors. Too hard to get such a perfect spacing if your trying to solder on pins with ZERO room for error. They can be purchased at a bunch of different places, FrozenCPU just came up first in the search.

I think that a 2:1 or 3:1 ratio of white to gunmetal would look great. Post what you come up with.


----------



## nleksan

Awesome, thanks for the response! I have a bunch of mini Tamiya connectors laying around, just have to find them...

I agree with you about the "no sleeve between close SATA Connectors" thing; I am planning on using 16-22AWG White-Insulated wire (depending on what the cable is for, obviously), and figured I'd just terminate the Paracord at the first SATA connector (as I'm doing this heatshrink-less), and then the white wire would be visible between the drives; it definitely looks cleaner that way. I am using one of those Silverstone 1-to-4 SATA Power Cable Adapters with Capacitors (can never remember the model number), and it's pure black wire at just the right length, and believe it or not I am pretty positive that the capacitors actually have a function; I'm running all but one of my drives off it, and I have my Fluke DMM connected in-line to the 12v and ground, turn the disk-sleep time to something like 1min, then have HDTune Pro run (one instance per drive) a full drive test (max accuracy to really stress the spinners), and the spin-up of 4 mechanical drives (8 total platters) all at once doesn't cause a spike in voltage. I would definitely recommend these to anyone building a home server with 4 or more HDD's, especially if in RAID where staggered spin-up is not an option. I have 8 more of them on order for my own home server (for which I am dedicating a second PSU to just the HDD's, as if they all spin-up at once it'll be about 300W spike!).

Anyway, glad to hear that my "white and grey" color scheme for sleeves sounds good to someone other than myself!








I was originally going to do all the primary cables in all-white, and all the secondary (front panel/fan/etc) cables in all-grey, but I think having something like 3/4 White to 1/4 Grey in the primary cables will help pull everything together, and then I can use a darker shade of grey for the "cables you shouldn't see" (i.e. rad fan wiring harness, front panel, etc), as well as ALL the external cables.

Oh, yeah, that reminds me.... I've decided to sleeve ALL of my external cables as well as the internal ones, since they're fairly visible and it would really visually clean up my desk area. Now, I think WHITE would be a terrible choice as dust/dirt/etc would make it ugly, fast. However, I still am hoping to use a couple of different colors so as to be able to differentiate between TYPES of cables..... Such as: All USB in Dark Blue, Input (KB/M) in Dark Grey, Output (Monitor/Speakers/Headphones) in Light Grey (already did a set of headphones for practice in light grey, and they turned out literally perfect lol), and then maybe White/Grey or White/Black for a set of Custom Power Cables (one for monitor, one for PC; the kind with the funky connectors, that I can't recall the names of, but what everyone uses on here; specifically, I found some with black/tinted exterior and white plastic internals that would work perfectly).

I've done external cable sleeving before, quite a bit actually, for all my audio equipment, but for all those I've used EMF/RFI shielded metallic sleeving, Kevlar/Aramid sleeving, and similar FUNCTIONAL sleeving without much care for aesthetics (it is for protection), all of which I got from WireCare. I am assuming that using MDPC-X or equivalent is a better choice than paracord for external cables? Or would using some of the Tech-Flex high-density stuff be even better?
Basically, I want it to look good, but if I can get some extra protection (physical and/or EMI/RFI) as well, that's just icing. Although, I guess I COULD double-sleeve some of the wires with EMI/RFI Shielded cable wrap as the "base" and the colored ("pretty") sleeve as the top layer...?

Sorry for the wall of text!


----------



## Seredin

Thanks to Frank for his cable stitching tuts on youtube.


Be warned, the x-series PSUs are not easy to stitch.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Thanks to Frank for his cable stitching tuts on youtube.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Be warned, the x-series PSUs are not easy to stitch.


Show us those psu ends - seasonics are notorious for their double wires. Like to see how you tamed that beast, but what I see is LookinGooD !


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Show us those psu ends - seasonics are notorious for their double wires. Like to see how you tamed that beast, but what I see is LookinGooD !


Not sure how to do that.
Check the X-Series club thread, everyone in there complains about it ha


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Anyone sleeved an NZXT HALE90 (original, not V2) semi-modular PSU?
> 
> I am really only concerned with the non-modular cables (24pin + 2x 8pin EPS + 2x 6+2pin PCI-Express + 1x 4-SATA Power), as I am going to make custom cables for all the modular ones. I have to use extensions for some of the non-modular cables as it is, and I'll likely end up NOT using the non-modular SATA Power Cable as A) I have one of the Silverstone 1x to 4x with the build-in capacitors and PERFECT spacing and B) I want to make some that have that perfect spacing between connectors so that there is no slack. Still, I want the cables coming out of the PSU to look good, even though to be honest they are barely visible at all....
> 
> Anyone who has sleeved one, I'd appreciate any input!
> 
> I'm thinking of doing all the cables (non-modular and custom modular) in paracord, with White as the primary color and perhaps a grey (medium shade, like a gunmetal?) as a secondary shade.... Any opinions on that?
> 
> here's how it looks now:


I would go with red being primary, gray secondary and white as the accent. You already have so much white going on it would be nice to give it a splash of color. You could also flip around the gray and red by making gray the primary.

But thats just IMO.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vakturion*
> 
> This is my first cable, used the guide by Lutro0 for Molex.


Looks darn close to the one I made!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *em ht*
> 
> I use sleeve 6mm diam ; with 10 mm heatshrink with adhesive; to get a solid connection between the sleeve and fan-connector .
> The Heatshrink should be shrunk/heat with (Digital) Heat-Gun (by 200-250 celsius degree ) to avoid the adhesive melting .
> Lutr0 made one video-guide about fan-sleeving:
> 
> 
> 
> The difference is the size of the sleeve and the Heashrink diam, I preffer to use Heatshrink with adhesive in this case .....


The reason I shy away from adhesive lined is that it leaks out of the edges.

Try to use some super glue like this: http://lutro0-customs.com/products/brush-on-style-super-glue


----------



## Konkistadori

My first sleeving project ahead









Have anyone here sleeved Corsair HX 520 Psu? How annoying are those pci-e+ 24psu pins to remove?


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

I've been sleeving my 24pin from my Corsair AX750, damn my fingers!
The pins at the psu end are a pain in the *ss to get out! I've done one side and I noticed to other side has like 3 double wires


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Got my MDPC! Oh yeah!!!


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Got my MDPC! Oh yeah!!!


Hey a fellow paintballer! Nice sleeve!


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> The reason I shy away from adhesive lined is that it leaks out of the edges.
> 
> Try to use some super glue like this: http://lutro0-customs.com/products/brush-on-style-super-glue


1-You need to use one digital heat-gun, set by low temp (200 degree Celsius); start heating on fan connector side
2-with super glue can be a totally mess (I already try it







)
3-(with adhesive heatshrink) the connection between sleeve and fan housing is very strong, so you can plug or unplug your fan without fear...







Sata heatshrink (12mm) is to big to cover the fan-housing (my opinion)
4-If the adhesive leak on edges is easy to get it out.


----------



## adi518

Hey guys, I'm in the process of sleeving my Seasonic P-760 (new platinum series) and I found out crucial info all should know prior to sleeving / making cables for this psu. Seasonic has changed the gpu sockets from the dual 12-pin gpu sockets to 4x 8-pin sockets which are all fit to either CPU or a GPU. There isn't a dedicated cpu socket anymore! Now, to add to that, Seasonic has changed these sockets so they do not correspond to the standard EPS! I made a picture for you to see the differences. I used Lutro0's picture of the EPS he's selling:

Old is basically X series and new is what you get on the P-series. I was first thinking a standard 8-pin EPS would go in the psu socket, but it didn't and I had to take apart the original ones to start making my cables:


----------



## McDoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*
> 
> Got some more done today, as usual, some Mini USB cables.
> 
> http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09090_zps29c1d799.jpg.html
> 
> http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09091_zpsac73acb4.jpg.html
> 
> http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09088_zps5876014a.jpg.html
> 
> http://s990.photobucket.com/user/_shrop/media/DSC09095_zps71a94cd0.jpg.html


Holy Cow, they are real, really good!


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Hey a fellow paintballer! Nice sleeve!


Hey! Here is another one!


----------



## samehsameh

finished my 24 pin


----------



## adi518

Great job! Now to the other cables!









I'm now building my cables.


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm in the process of sleeving my Seasonic P-760 (new platinum series) and I found out crucial info all should know prior to sleeving / making cables for this psu. Seasonic has changed the gpu sockets from the dual 12-pin gpu sockets to 4x 8-pin sockets which are all fit to either CPU or a GPU. There isn't a dedicated cpu socket anymore! Now, to add to that, Seasonic has changed these sockets so they do not correspond to the standard EPS! I made a picture for you to see the differences. I used Lutro0's picture of the EPS he's selling:
> 
> Old is basically X series and new is what you get on the P-series. I was first thinking a standard 8-pin EPS would go in the psu socket, but it didn't and I had to take apart the original ones to start making my cables:


just a quick question, you have a pic of the gpu power connecter, and a pic of the m/b 8 pin connecter, why is one old and one new?

plus they wont interchange on the hardware. or are the plugs your showing the psu side!


----------



## adi518

Sorry for not making that clear enough. The whole post refers to the psu side only ! By "old" I mean X series. New is P series (platinum).


----------



## Jaacckk

Hi Guys.

Just got this package from moddiy.com. They did a premium custom set for my corsair ax850. I am stocked!! There's no bleeding wires through the sleeve. What do you guys think?


----------



## adi518

Except for the double wires, it's ok, though not as good as MDPC sleeve. I have both.

My moddiy cables were slightly rough at the edges.. like the sleeve got squashed a little or a small part of the weave isn't flat with the rest of it, a small nitpick but it's annoying to have on a "premium" cable. The other problem with Moddiy is that you're bound to their length offerings. You can't ask for a custom length because it's mass produced.


----------



## pexon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDoney*
> 
> Holy Cow, they are real, really good!


Thanks man!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm in the process of sleeving my Seasonic P-760 (new platinum series) and I found out crucial info all should know prior to sleeving / making cables for this psu. Seasonic has changed the gpu sockets from the dual 12-pin gpu sockets to 4x 8-pin sockets which are all fit to either CPU or a GPU. There isn't a dedicated cpu socket anymore! Now, to add to that, Seasonic has changed these sockets so they do not correspond to the standard EPS! I made a picture for you to see the differences. I used Lutro0's picture of the EPS he's selling:
> 
> Old is basically X series and new is what you get on the P-series. I was first thinking a standard 8-pin EPS would go in the psu socket, but it didn't and I had to take apart the original ones to start making my cables:


I will have these new connectors in my shop the moment I get back. I am in AZ waiting for a surgery to take the pain away from my back.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I am in AZ waiting for a surgery to take the pain away from my back.


Rough. Good vibes from Georgia coming your way. I loved my recent order


----------



## Lutro0

Seems the new ones for seasonic are just pcie 8pins.


----------



## Hachi-chan

Quick question. I'm doing the heatshrinkless method on my CPU 8-Pin, following Lutr0's guide, when I was burning the heatshrink along with the sleeving at the crimp, I noticed that I've burnt (it's kinda black...) the internal wire at the crimp. Here's a picture to describe what I'm talking about:



The crimp is a bit short and shows a bit of the wire, and so when I was lighting the heatshrink+sleeving at the crimp, the wire got a bit black (from the lighter) and a bit of the sides as well. Did I just mess up the wire in anyway (or rather burn it)? I don't want my motherboard/PSU blowing up cause I damaged some of the wire









Thanks!


----------



## Jaacckk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hachi-chan*
> 
> Quick question. I'm doing the heatshrinkless method on my CPU 8-Pin, following Lutr0's guide, when I was burning the heatshrink along with the sleeving at the crimp, I noticed that I've burnt (it's kinda black...) the internal wire at the crimp. Here's a picture to describe what I'm talking about:
> 
> 
> 
> The crimp is a bit short and shows a bit of the wire, and so when I was lighting the heatshrink+sleeving at the crimp, the wire got a bit black (from the lighter) and a bit of the sides as well. Did I just mess up the wire in anyway (or rather burn it)? I don't want my motherboard/PSU blowing up cause I damaged some of the wire
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Your safe, Iv'e done that countless times.


----------



## Hachi-chan

Thanks Jaacckk, gives me some reassurance that I didn't burn it









+Rep to you~


----------



## mav2000

Hi guys. I am in a bit of a dilemma. I have an Antec 850 HCP. Good solid unit working fine for a while now. I have sleeved the 8 Pin EPS and 24 pin as well a whole lot of sata and molex connectors.

Now the problem with the PSU is that the PCIE cables are two sets to a single cable.



^^^That is someone else's image from OCN, but the circle is around the cables in question.

Well to come to the point, I dont want to sleeve that, as I am not sure what the final outcome will look like.

Now unluckily even the modular PCIE cables are the same. So I decided that instead it would be better off to use the extra CPU 8 Pin eps cables, remove the connector at the other end and fix the PCIE 8 Pin connectoes, keeping a close look at 12V and ground. Turns out that the Antec uses 10 pin connector at the PSU end for both the PCIE and EPS.

Now, this is the important part. The PCIE uses 5 ground and 3 12V. The EPS uses 4 ground and 4 12V. On the PSU side, the PCIE uses 4 pins (one cable split into 2) and 4 12V, whereas the EPS/PCIE side is normal. So basically the PCIE uses 7 out of the 10 slots in the PSU side connector and the EPS uses 8 out of ten.

I hope I have not lost you guys yet.

Now I am confused how to wire this. I basically need one more ground on the PSU side, using the EPS connecter...anyway to figure out which is 12 V and which is the ground without killing my unit?


----------



## Lutro0

When in doubt mav use a multi meter. It has saved me many issues.


----------



## mav2000

I will have to learn that. So just use the black pin in a ground pin and then test? Also do I need to put off the psu?


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Reading this review: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=215

The EPS cable can be plugged into any red connector, and the hard drive cables can also be plugged into the bottom part (clip side) of the red connectors. The PCIe can also be plugged into EPS red connector. The EPS uses 8 of the 10 pins, the 2 remaining pins are the 3.3v and 5V for the Sata cables. Just use the ESP connector as a reference for the 12V and ground.

You can double check using a multi-meter. Set it to Ohms, connect the black lead to a known ground and poke around with the other while the power supply is off and unplugged. You should get 0 ohms or close to 0 when connecting both leads to ground.


----------



## geort45

Any suggestions/best method to crimp two wires on the same ATX crimp? The crimping itself is not hard however the insulation on my cables makes them too fat to both fit in the damn plastic connector... I had to "sharpen" some of the insulation with a xacto knife to make them fit in there... it ain't too pretty

Thanks!


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Any suggestions/best method to crimp two wires on the same ATX crimp? The crimping itself is not hard however the insulation on my cables makes them too fat to both fit in the damn plastic connector... I had to "sharpen" some of the insulation with a xacto knife to make them fit in there... it ain't too pretty
> 
> Thanks!


Rather than crimp double wires on ATX pins a better way is to splice them. Lutro0 has a guide 



. Even if you don't sleeve it heatshrink is enough to protect the splice.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Any suggestions/best method to crimp two wires on the same ATX crimp? The crimping itself is not hard however the insulation on my cables makes them too fat to both fit in the damn plastic connector... I had to "sharpen" some of the insulation with a xacto knife to make them fit in there... it ain't too pretty


Strip one wire more than the other and crimp it on top.



Cut the end of the sleeve diagonally to make it taper.



Push two tapered sleeves together onto both wires.



Long piece of shrink over both.



Heat the shrink longer than normal, this takes practice. Remove heatshrink.



Push into the connector while still warm.


----------



## OzMan84

Has anyone got an alternative to sewing their cables together? I have seen people use clips but I can't find ones that can support 5 sleeved SATA Power cables? There is always cable ties but they bunches them together









Any ideas?


----------



## xxpenguinxx

You can use 4 zip ties and put them together in a rectangle shape. It will hold the wires without bunching them up too much.


----------



## OzMan84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> You can use 4 zip ties and put them together in a rectangle shape. It will hold the wires without bunching them up too much.


can you post a pic of what you mean? Because to me, if 1 zip will bunch them so will 4?


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I don't have zip ties on me, hope this helps. Connect the zip ties like this and tighten them just enough so the wires don't move.


----------



## geort45

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Strip one wire more than the other and crimp it on top.
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the end of the sleeve diagonally to make it taper.
> 
> 
> 
> Push two tapered sleeves together onto both wires.
> 
> 
> 
> Long piece of shrink over both.
> 
> 
> 
> Heat the shrink longer than normal, this takes practice. Remove heatshrink.
> 
> 
> 
> Push into the connector while still warm.






Very thorough explanation, thanks! But I guess the insulation on these last wires I bought is thicker than normal, all the cables that I have collected from PC components are way thinner :-/, I should try using some of those then with your sleeving instruction


----------



## adi518

The execution was great, but ultimately it still looks bad. The connector is made for one wire per socket.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> The execution was great, but ultimately it still looks bad. The connector is made for one wire per socket.


I know what you mean, but I felt in this situation it looked better than the heatshrink-over-solder method.


----------



## adi518

That looks nice actually! Just splice around the area of the cable that's going to be hidden from sight. I mean, if you splice them that close, it slightly defeats the purpose, but again it doesn't look bad.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> That looks nice actually! Just splice around the area of the cable that's going to be hidden from sight. I mean, if you splice them that close, it slightly defeats the purpose, but again it doesn't look bad.


No place to hide anything in that build. You can see both ends of the cable in that picture (GPU left, PSU right), so the splice is in the middle


----------



## adi518

Aha... now I see your point hehe.


----------



## OzMan84

Hey guys,

I am about to sleeve my PCIe cable for my gfx card. Just want to double check that this is the correct way the cables should be going. The top set are the ones that plug into the gfx card and the 2nd are what plugs into my psu


----------



## kingchris

well the colours look nice. but thats about all i can help you with, will need a little more info to help you??? if its power and earth postion
Try this it might help you.


----------



## OzMan84

Its an 8 pin psu connector with 6 pin gfx connector. The cables are all black and its a Corsair HX-650 V2 80 PLUS Gold Power Supply psu

I have found a diagram for a consair ax1200 so just wondering if the wiring would be the same for my hx650?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1173304/corsair-ax-custom-power-cables#post_19936341


----------



## Lutro0

First work back from all the back pain. Also the first Stiff-Line LC Custom Work


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Nice!


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Good to hear you're back!


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Some Corsair SP120 fans with LC stiff line


----------



## luciddreamer124

Nice sleeving on those fans. What heatshrink did you use on the fan header end? Did you just use normal size and then stretch it over the header?


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Thanks! I used this stuff on both ends
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Raychem-1-4-X-96-in-Black-Heat-Shrink-Tubing-CPGI-RNF-100-1-4-0-96IN/203002595?keyword=cpgi-rnf-100-1%2F4-0-96in#.UcXrsPm1F8E
I had it lying around so I figured why not! It was stretched over the fan connector.


----------



## boutch55555

My work using Frank's stitch and Bitspower Super Tight Weave 1/16"







Had to redo all cables from scratch with white wire.




Sorry for potato on the last one


Took lots of time, but worth it. I had to upgrade the PSU before I got time to do the 24pin, at least I saved that









I will probably use white paracord for the new one.


----------



## kingchris

had the same issue with white sleeve on my first build. build looks good.


----------



## Noskcaj

I've been unable to sleeve my PSU's ATX cables with moddiy gold. Black works fine but gold either snags (with tape) or won't fit over the tape.
Is there a way round this?

Also, does the heatshrinksless method of paracord work onto wire or only over a crimp/pin

The questions are for two different builds


----------



## kingchris

you need to make a tool or buy one for paracord, forget what a lot of sleevers say, use the tool not tape will save you hours.
paracord needs something to melt too, so with a cable it will slide along it, it needs some sort of stop ie crimp or terminal.

will find the link for the para tool and pm you


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> you need to make a tool or buy one for paracord, forget what a lot of sleevers say, use the tool not tape will save you hours.
> paracord needs something to melt too, so with a cable it will slide along it, it needs some sort of stop ie crimp or terminal.
> 
> will find the link for the para tool and pm you


http://lutro0-customs.com/products/paracord-tool-threader


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> you need to make a tool or buy one for paracord, forget what a lot of sleevers say, use the tool not tape will save you hours.


I've finally got the gold sleeve working using industrial tape. it wouldn't fit over a sleeving tool.


----------



## Noskcaj

Some tips for anyone who may use Moddiy gold sleeve:
Like gold, this sleeve can be viewed in many colours. This is because the sleeve alternates between gold plastic and shiny clear plastic so it will change as the colour of the cable changes.
Red and orange look identical through the cable.
The sleeve is very difficult to use both because it doesn't flex much and because it snags easily.
The only way to get this over an ATX pin is with thin, strong tape or possibly thin tool.
The sleeve frays easier than normal

To sum up: A very good looking sleeve that is very difficult to use.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> Some tips for anyone who may use Moddiy gold sleeve:
> Like gold, this sleeve can be viewed in many colours. This is because the sleeve alternates between gold plastic and shiny clear plastic so it will change as the colour of the cable changes.
> Red and orange look identical through the cable.
> The sleeve is very difficult to use both because it doesn't flex much and because it snags easily.
> The only way to get this over an ATX pin is with thin, strong tape or possibly thin tool.
> The sleeve frays easier than normal
> 
> To sum up: A very good looking sleeve that is very difficult to use.


Bummer that sounds like an interesting mix of colors.


----------



## Noskcaj

Since i've finally worked out how to sleeve ATX cables, so updates.







I used the flash to show the gold and because my lighting is ever worse


----------



## Lutro0

*Pro Tip:*

_When heatshrinkless sleeving one of the most important things to get right is how you are melting the sleeve and how it looks when you insert it into the connector. If you did too much or too little it will show in this phase or not even click inside the connector at all.

That is why heatshrink is used on plastic sleeving and paracord you can use no heatshrink. As you melt the plastic the heatshrink will help form a cone of sorts neatly sealing the edge of the sleeve. With plastic type monofilament sleeve this is so much more important as those strands like to bend out of place, and paracord melts together allowing you to make a cord and its a softer material so it will go into the connector much easier allowing much more room for error.

The heatshrink you use is so important for this "heatshrinkless" method as it needs to be somewhat resistant to heat and hold its form when heated with a lighter for longer amounts of time not leaving too much of a residue on the sleeve. Also you do not want it being too tight and squeeze the plastic too hard as that will not give you a gradual cone but more of a melt then sleeve with no transition making putting the sleeved cable into the connector almost impossible and defiantly not leaving it how it should look. I recommend the following shrink for heatshrinkless as its the same I use : http://lutro0-customs.com/products/1-4th-inch-3-1-ratio-heatshrink-4ft-for-heatshrinkless cut in about 10mm lengths so the last edge does not get shrunk making it easy to cut off. The heatshrink needs to be able to handle the heat because when you are done heating it up you need to pat it down to help form the cone shape and ensuring a strong melt onto the wire and pin.

Of course there is more things that make the heatshrinkless method not only easy but a thing of beauty fully filling the connector leaving you with a fully sleeved cable that is easy to train.

The example shown is of LC Custom 16awg wire with LC Stiff-Line Brown Sleeving which is why it looks full and super dense not showing the wire a bit and this shot is a close up.
http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-custom-16awg-black-wire-1ft
http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-stiff-line-sleeving-brown-25ft

I hope that this helps you sleevers out there get more of an understanding of a method that is never cut and dry but more of an art._


----------



## Destrto

Hey guys, just wanted to show you guys my latest attempt at heatshrinkless paracord. Looks much better than my other previous attempts I think.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

What sleeving is best for training cables, LC Stiff line, Paracord or MDPC? Also 16AWG or 18AWG?


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> What sleeving is best for training cables, LC Stiff line, Paracord or MDPC? Also 16AWG or 18AWG?


LC and 18 i think


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> LC and 18 i think


isnt 18 thinner than 16 so therefore won't hold shape so well?


----------



## gdubc

^correct. LutroOs 16gauge really fills the stiffline up. Looks reeeaal nice. Easier to train as well.


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> isnt 18 thinner than 16 so therefore won't hold shape so well?


oops, i got it backwards. you want the thicker unless you're using a really stiff sleeve.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> What sleeving is best for training cables, LC Stiff line, Paracord or MDPC? Also 16AWG or 18AWG?


Best I have used is my 16awg and stiff-line.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> LC and 18 i think


18 and 16 both train well with stiffline but 16 is better.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> isnt 18 thinner than 16 so therefore won't hold shape so well?


18 is indeed thinner but I sell the wire with a good core so it still holds its shape well even with the thin diameter, The trainability of a cable has to do with the type of insulation and the type of wire strands. So both the 18 and 16 train well - when you combine either one with stiff-line you get an even easier cable to train as you add more stiffness with the stiff-line - hence the name.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Best I have used is my 16awg and stiff-line.
> 18 and 16 both train well with stiffline but 16 is better.
> 18 is indeed thinner but I sell the wire with a good core so it still holds its shape well even with the thin diameter, The trainability of a cable has to do with the type of insulation and the type of wire strands. So both the 18 and 16 train well - when you combine either one with stiff-line you get an even easier cable to train as you add more stiffness with the stiff-line - hence the name.


thanks lutro0 very helpful as ever!


----------



## keenan

Hi guys..

Just spent all day building cables and sleeving them.. I used 2.06mm 16awg Eco wire with a rating of 26/o.25 and mdpc sleeve..

Had to match my Sabertooth board!

It is however my first attemp and I'll be perfecting a second try as soon as my fingers heal..









Sorry for the bad phone pics..


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keenan*
> 
> Hi guys..
> 
> Just spent all day building cables and sleeving them.. I used 2.06mm 16awg Eco wire with a rating of 26/o.25 and mdpc sleeve..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Had to match my Sabertooth board!
> 
> It is however my first attemp and I'll be perfecting a second try as soon as my fingers heal..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the bad phone pics..


Looks mighty fine to me! Good job on the sleeving!


----------



## Zooty Cat

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keenan*
> 
> Hi guys..
> 
> Just spent all day building cables and sleeving them.. I used 2.06mm 16awg Eco wire with a rating of 26/o.25 and mdpc sleeve..
> 
> Had to match my Sabertooth board!
> 
> It is however my first attemp and I'll be perfecting a second try as soon as my fingers heal..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the bad phone pics..






That looks really good....better than my first


----------



## keenan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zooty Cat*
> 
> 
> That looks really good....better than my first


Haha, thanks for the vote of confidence!! Took some better pics, I think ..









http://s164.photobucket.com/user/jdewinnaar/media/Sleeving/2_zps0e6f6947.png.html

http://s164.photobucket.com/user/jdewinnaar/media/Sleeving/3_zps96b5f277.png.html

http://s164.photobucket.com/user/jdewinnaar/media/Sleeving/1_zps0b2be600.png.html

http://s164.photobucket.com/user/jdewinnaar/media/Sleeving/4_zps0f97d14e.png.html

http://s164.photobucket.com/user/jdewinnaar/media/Sleeving/5_zps4c8b6d1a.png.html

http://s164.photobucket.com/user/jdewinnaar/media/Sleeving/7_zpsdbdf37a5.png.html

http://s164.photobucket.com/user/jdewinnaar/media/Sleeving/8_zps39f2da8b.png.html

http://s164.photobucket.com/user/jdewinnaar/media/Sleeving/9_zps04044ddb.png.html

http://s164.photobucket.com/user/jdewinnaar/media/Sleeving/10_zpsb51338d2.png.html


----------



## mav2000

Heres mine....more in the log in my sig. Thanks Lutro0 and Nils













Hope you guys like them. I am getting some more stuff in the next few days and hopefully the cables will be straighter as well by then.


----------



## BuToNz




----------



## NomNomNom

How do you guys use soldering irons to do heatshrinkless paracord? I keep burning my fingers over and over again on the wire.


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> How do you guys use soldering irons to do heatshrinkless paracord? I keep burning my fingers over and over again on the wire.


Use a BIC lighter instead


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> How do you guys use soldering irons to do heatshrinkless paracord? I keep burning my fingers over and over again on the wire.


----------



## NomNomNom

I have been using a lighter the whole time, i thought its harder to burn yourself using the soldering iron?


----------



## alpenwasser

Some very nice work here, very glad I finally joined up.









This is the primary cable harness for my current build. What's missing here is the GPU
power delivery, which was already mounted in the case when I took this picture.

I'm using 16 AWG Silicone wire with a diameter of 3.1 mm, paracord in tan and black and
black 0.25 mm (0.01" ) Nylon thread for the lacing and tying down the sleeving at the wires'
ends.

The advantage of the Silicone wire is its better temperature resistance (200 C for
the one I've bought) as well as chemical resistance (not that that should be relevant
for a PC







) and its extreme flexibility (which can also be a downside, depending on your
preferences, but personally that's the original reason I chose this wire). Normal PVC
wire is usually rated to something between 80 C and 105 C (at least the one used
on the PSUs I have laying around here) . This is important for the sleeving technique
I'm using because using it on PVC wire actually melts off the wire's insulation (I've tried
it out), whereas the Silicone is rather unimpressed.



Inside the case, it will look more or less like this in the end. There's still some tidying
up to do, but you get the idea. You can also see the GPU harness in this pic. It's tied
to the case's top with waxed cotton cord.



I had to devise a new technique for the sleeving because there's no room inside the
connector for both the sleeve and the wire and I really didn't want to use heatshrink
to fix the sleeve to the wire. This is a close-up of the end result before painting the
wire's end and the bit of paracord sticking out black. More pics in my build log.


----------



## adi518

Looks like you done a great job. Only thing I can comment on is the color scheme which doesn't really fit the setup. Not meaning to sound harsh or anything.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

WOW! Alpenwasser, that's amazing!


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Looks like you done a great job. Only thing I can comment on is the color scheme which doesn't really fit the setup. Not meaning to sound harsh or anything.


Haha, can't argue with you there. The final colour scheme will be black/copper, so I'm either going to hide
the red bits on the M/B or paint them black. And of course the GPU will be put under water, but I'm going
to run it on air for a while before breaking the warranty.









Also, the tan/sand colour doesn't really translate well into JPEG files. The final build pics will be PNG so I don't
have this problem and the pics look more like it actually looks in person, but photos in PNG format are substantially
larger and therefore eat a lot more bandwidth (the PNG file for this was 4.6 MB, I tried it out before settling
on JPEG).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> WOW! Alpenwasser, that's amazing!


Thank you!


----------



## luciddreamer124

Thought I'd post some pictures of the sleeving in my CaseLabs SM8 build I just finished. All LutroO PET (great stuff). More pictures of the build are in my build log, link in sig.


----------



## adi518

That's how you do it ^^.


----------



## Noskcaj

Lutro0: i demand you hire alpenwasser immediately.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> Some very nice work here, very glad I finally joined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/forums/posts/add/threadId/662039/toquote/20350669
> This is the primary cable harness for my current build. What's missing here is the GPU
> power delivery, which was already mounted in the case when I took this picture.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using 16 AWG Silicone wire with a diameter of 3.1 mm, paracord in tan and black and
> black 0.25 mm (0.01" ) Nylon thread for the lacing and tying down the sleeving at the wires'
> ends.
> 
> The advantage of the Silicone wire is its better temperature resistance (200 C for
> the one I've bought) as well as chemical resistance (not that that should be relevant
> for a PC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and its extreme flexibility (which can also be a downside, depending on your
> preferences, but personally that's the original reason I chose this wire). Normal PVC
> wire is usually rated to something between 80 C and 105 C (at least the one used
> on the PSUs I have laying around here) . This is important for the sleeving technique
> I'm using because using it on PVC wire actually melts off the wire's insulation (I've tried
> it out), whereas the Silicone is rather unimpressed.
> 
> 
> 
> Inside the case, it will look more or less like this in the end. There's still some tidying
> up to do, but you get the idea. You can also see the GPU harness in this pic. It's tied
> to the case's top with waxed cotton cord.
> 
> 
> 
> I had to devise a new technique for the sleeving because there's no room inside the
> connector for both the sleeve and the wire and I really didn't want to use heatshrink
> to fix the sleeve to the wire. This is a close-up of the end result before painting the
> wire's end and the bit of paracord sticking out black. More pics in my build log.


Looks awesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Thought I'd post some pictures of the sleeving in my CaseLabs SM8 build I just finished. All LutroO PET (great stuff). More pictures of the build are in my build log, link in sig.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good job, the sleeve looks good. the cables routing, not so much


----------



## adi518

Odd ^^ The routing looks excellent. The only thing I'd consider really is routing those gpu cables from around the res. It will give it a nicer, curved look and "reveal" the cables.


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Odd ^^ The routing looks excellent. The only thing I'd consider really is routing those gpu cables from around the res. It will give it a nicer, curved look and "reveal" the cables.


The cables behind the motherboard tray.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

what coolant is that (the clear blue stuff)?


----------



## luciddreamer124

Mayhems X1 clear with Deep Blue dye


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Thought I'd post some pictures of the sleeving in my CaseLabs SM8 build I just finished. All LutroO PET (great stuff). More pictures of the build are in my build log, link in sig.
> 
> [...img...]


Wow, beautiful colour coordination!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> Lutro0: i demand you hire alpenwasser immediately.


Haha, thanks man!









Funnily enough, he did actually post a pic of my sleeving on his Facebook page last week, which
reminded me that I hadn't joined OCN yet (it was on my todo list but I had sort of forgotten).


----------



## NomNomNom

Does anyone know if its possible to use rit dye on cables? I think im gonna dye my Sata power cables black instead of sleeving them.


----------



## Big Elf

I've used vinyl dye. It's easier to find the right coloured cables though.


----------



## szeged

my first attempt at heatshrinkless sleeving on a 2 pin cable i had



what do you guys think? sorry for the bad quality, picture taken with my phone since my camera apparently doesnt like being dropped in a pool.

if you guys think it looks even halfway decent i might redo my entire psu heatshrinkless.


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I've used vinyl dye. It's easier to find the right coloured cables though.


Do you think Rit dye would work? I'll take off the connectors first


----------



## Big Elf

While I'm not 100% sure I don't think so. I don't think the insulation would absorb enough of the colour. I did try dyeing white acetal with a black RIT dye but it ended up a blue/green shade.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Do you think Rit dye would work? I'll take off the connectors first


You mention Rit dye and sleeving ? say no moah !


----------



## Big Elf

He's talking about the wires, not the sleeve.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Adi518, I'm stealing the colors in your avatar....


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> While I'm not 100% sure I don't think so. I don't think the insulation would absorb enough of the colour. I did try dyeing white acetal with a black RIT dye but it ended up a blue/green shade.


I wouldnt have a problem with the insulation melting from hot water would I?


----------



## Destrto

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Thought I'd post some pictures of the sleeving in my CaseLabs SM8 build I just finished. All LutroO PET (great stuff). More pictures of the build are in my build log, link in sig.






Where did you get those wire saddle things?


----------



## socketus

The berettes are made by modsmart, they're called Kobra cable bundlers, available online at PPCS and FCPU and at Xoxide.


----------



## luciddreamer124

^ Yep I got them at PPC's. Thanks socketus


----------



## oelkanne

Thats my Work.....


----------



## szeged

so it seems like mdpc is cheaper than kobra/bitspower sleeving in the US now? .59 per foot of kobra/bitspower,

roughly $60 for the 100 meter(330ish feet) dumping pack from mdpc.

330 feet of bitspower/kobra is $194 usd.

are bitspower/kobra trying to run themselves out of business or what? I ordered 20 yards of mdpc red, a 100 meter dumping pack, heatstrink, molex tools, and all of it combined was cheaper than just 100 meters of kobra/bitspower lol. Kobra has a 200 foot spool of sleeve for $60 but still thats 130 foot less than mdpcs deal.


----------



## oelkanne

MPDX is german Quality









and ive sleeved mine with Paracord 550 chep and looks awsome...more colors available and also nice to sleeve...Tools needed...something to get the Pins out...i call it "Büroklammer"


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> I wouldnt have a problem with the insulation melting from hot water would I?


It depends a bit on the PVC. Usually the temperature rating should be printed onto the cable/wires.
I have a BeQuiet! 550W unit whose wires are rated to 80 C, and an Enermax Platimax whose wires
are rated to 180 C, so this can vary quite a bit. IIRC I have also seen 105 C on a PSU at some point.
I recommend checking on your PSU for this information.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> so it seems like mdpc is cheaper than kobra/bitspower sleeving in the US now? .59 per foot of kobra/bitspower,
> 
> roughly $60 for the 100 meter(330ish feet) dumping pack from mdpc.
> 
> 330 feet of bitspower/kobra is $194 usd.
> 
> are bitspower/kobra trying to run themselves out of business or what? I ordered 20 yards of mdpc red, a 100 meter dumping pack, heatstrink, molex tools, and all of it combined was cheaper than just 100 meters of kobra/bitspower lol. Kobra has a 200 foot spool of sleeve for $60 but still thats 130 foot less than mdpcs deal.


Certainly in the UK, MDPC-X sleeve is cheaper than all the other PET on the market apart from one who I won't buy from on principle (and won't name because he's a s***). However if you then take into account the MDPC-X dumping packs then nothing comes close on pricing. Some paracord is nearly as expensive as MDPC-X dumping pack prices!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Certainly in the UK, MDPC-X sleeve is cheaper than all the other PET on the market apart from one who I won't buy from on principle (and won't name because he's a s***). However if you then take into account the MDPC-X dumping packs then nothing comes close on pricing. Some paracord is nearly as expensive as MDPC-X dumping pack prices!


the order i placed from mdpc was cheaper than the same amount of sleeving/shrink/molex tool from performance pcs, and im from the US. Thats saying a lot. Bitspower really needs to rethink their prices on their 1/8 sleeve. Trying to sell a product from your name is a bad idea if the product isnt up to par.


----------



## Big Elf

Doesn't *Lutro0s PET sleeve* US prices work out OK though?


----------



## szeged

i needed roughly 200~ feet of black sleeve, lutro was my first choice, but its all sold out, so decided to give mdpc a try, bank was saying i couldnt order from them for some reason, so i went to bitspower, and almost set an order for $230 for black sleeve, red sleeve, shrink, and a molex tool. decided to call the bank one last time before putting the order in and they then said it was ok for me to order from euro, so i placed the same exact order from mdpc for $130 usd instead of $230. If lutro isnt sold out next time i need sleeve ill be doing that though


----------



## luciddreamer124

Ya and LutroO's stuff is great. I compared that with MDPC when I sleeved my build and I think I prefer the PET to be honest.


----------



## szeged

i was hoping to try it out when i sleeve my gfs psu in a week or so, maybe hell be back in stock by then









I havent tried mdpc yet but from everything i hear its really great stuff. Ill be finding out first hand soon enough.


----------



## oelkanne

ís there a guide how to stitch the sleeve together??


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> ís there a guide how to stitch the sleeve together??


yes, here is a good one im going to be using most likely thursday/friday when more sleeving arrives.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1406132/cable-lacing-tutorial


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> The berettes are made by modsmart, they're called Kobra cable bundlers, available online at PPCS and FCPU and at Xoxide.


THanks, Ive been trying to find a place locally that might have them in a bundle pack. But so far, no luck.


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> Thats my Work.....


I'd always wondered how reflective paracord would look on a PC. Apply lots of LEDs.


----------



## TeamBlue

This set reminded me of the ocean so i took a pic of them on my waverunner.


----------



## Noskcaj

It seems i broke my antec PSU trying to sleeve the sata cables and the gigabyte one is already broken, so i've made a belt with my leftover 100ft of paracord. This counts as sleeving.


----------



## szeged

pure genius.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> This set reminded me of the ocean so i took a pic of them on my waverunner.
> [...IMG...]


Wow, loving those colors







:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> It seems i broke my antec PSU trying to sleeve the sata cables and the gigabyte one is already broken, so i've made a belt with my leftover 100ft of paracord. This counts as sleeving.
> [...IMG...]
> [...IMG...]
> [...IMG...]


Hehe, nice one! I had a 30 m piece of paracord that was cosmetically unsuitable for sleeving and I made a new
leash for my dog with it, although I used a different stitch (double cobra, I think).


----------



## Konkistadori

Sleeving first time.... Stitching wouldnt hurt tough








And those double wires on atx power cable were annoying...


----------



## Destrto

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Konkistadori*
> 
> Sleeving first time.... Stitching wouldnt hurt tough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And those double wires on atx power cable were annoying...






I think your case needs to be just a tad bit smaller.









Sleeving looks great, btw.


----------



## Konkistadori

Even smaller?








This is quite small for an ATX sized case tough, 42cm x 42cm x 19,5cm.
But extra room is needed when going for watercooling









Thanks!


----------



## socketus

Checked your log out, you've made that old case really shine. Even the vinyl wrap over the psu had me thinking it was ventilated. Made me think What case is that ?

Good foto, too !


----------



## Konkistadori

I found some markings and it seemed to be old compucase from year 2000-2001.
I would say it is quite well tought case, for an old case.
Sturdy as any quality case, not flimsy at all, quite thick steel frame and panels too.
Next step is to watercool this case









Thanks!


----------



## b0sse

I searched instead of creating a new post and was wondering where else I could snag sleeving? I'm looking for copper. MDPC only has it in small and I'd like in the US for ease of shipping.


----------



## chase11

May be able to use the brown or something from here. Other then that I don't know.


----------



## socketus

Have you thought about painting the sleeves, er .. once you get it sleeved.

or dyeing the sleeves ?

hmm, how bout paracord ? there's a huge library of colors in paracord.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0sse*
> 
> I searched instead of creating a new post and was wondering where else I could snag sleeving? I'm looking for copper. MDPC only has it in small and I'd like in the US for ease of shipping.


The only thing similar to that I've been able to find is copper braid for audio cables on eBay (link).

A few months ago I also saw it in smaller diameters than that, but at the moment it doesn't seem to be around
anymore. Maybe you can find something like it in local audio shops. If the thinnest you can find is still too thick
you could use one sleeve for two wires maybe?


----------



## Lutro0

Dont know if I posted this here or not, but here is a sneak peak at the new Lutro0 Customs Téleios sleeving everyone has been waiting for!





By far the easiest sleeve I have ever used and a perfect blend of density, size, color, and overall ease of use for sleeving. It is extremely forgiving for new sleevers.

It is 3 and some years of research trial and error finally in fruition.

It will be for sale soon as the rest of the colors and sata sizes come.

Finally a sleeve perfect for both shrink and shrinkless sleeving that doenst need a special heatshrink to use the shrink method and will contour to some of the thinnest 18awg and thickest 16awg,









I am just a tad bit excited.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Sounds awesome! So will this replace the PET? (great stuff already especially for heatshrinkless)


----------



## MNModder

ok so I just finished up re sleeving my 24 pin extension but I dont like the way it looks in the case and with the color scheme something seems off can you guys throw out some ideas

Before:


After:


I also have this paracord but wasnt sure how it would look in the case


Please throw out some ideas thanks in advance your help is appreciated

P.s. If I wasent clear on what i want Ideas for a different color pattern for my 24 pin extension


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Sounds awesome! So will this replace the PET? (great stuff already especially for heatshrinkless)


Yes it will, however people like LC StiffLine so much I will continue to carry it as its perfect for heatshrinkless. But I beleive that people will prefer this sleeve over it. It has many of the same qualities but it is super easy to use for shrink style, you dont need any kind of special shrink to use the shrink method as the sleeve is made to be very forgiving for new sleevers if you use the right kind of wire.

Here is another example:


----------



## NomNomNom

What size heatshrink do i need for FP connectors and 3pin fan connectors? Also for audio HD connectors?
Going to be buying from here
http://www.dazmode.com/store/category/41-heatshrink/
Thanks!


----------



## MNModder

Looks awesome lutro0 I am planing in the near future to place an order. I have never worked with the plastic sleeving any tips and other than being more forgiving what are the differences between stiff line and the new stuff


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Ok I've got one for you guys... I have a Seasonic X850 and a GTX 780. The PCI cables are daisy chained together to make two 8pins... Should I make two separate 8pins?

Confused!!!


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Ok I've got one for you guys... I have a Seasonic X850 and a GTX 780. The PCI cables are daisy chained together to make two 8pins... Should I make two separate 8pins?
> 
> Confused!!!


I think making 2 seperate 8 pins would look nicer in my opinion.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I think making 2 seperate 8 pins would look nicer in my opinion.


Yeah, I guess I'll be ordering some cables to sleeve...


----------



## briddell

Can't wait for my Color X and Shade 19 to ship! It's going to look great together


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> What size heatshrink do i need for FP connectors and 3pin fan connectors? Also for audio HD connectors?
> Going to be buying from here
> http://www.dazmode.com/store/category/41-heatshrink/
> Thanks!


Depends on your method,

Typically a small size for front panel just big enough to cover the connectors, depends on what daz carries but I use a 3/16in

As for the fans and audio an 1/2in can be made to fit both.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNModder*
> 
> Looks awesome lutro0 I am planing in the near future to place an order. I have never worked with the plastic sleeving any tips and other than being more forgiving what are the differences between stiff line and the new stuff


Everything from the color, weave, size, and such will be different from stiff-line. This will allow teleios to be able to be use shrink and non shrink style while allowing perfect coverage and train-ability while providing a deep rich color for the sleever. However they will look similar due to them being based upon to the same weave.I have used almost every sleeve out there and I have worked on teleios for years now and it is by far the best sleeve I have used - it became exactly what I dreamt it would be. An easy sleeve that pro and beginner sleevers will love that will provide the best colors and density. I know that it might sound a bit biased because I made it but it really is the next evolution of sleeving taking the very best parts of all sleeves out there while getting rid of the negatives. More colors will keep coming as well to cover all of your hardware.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Ok I've got one for you guys... I have a Seasonic X850 and a GTX 780. The PCI cables are daisy chained together to make two 8pins... Should I make two separate 8pins?
> 
> Confused!!!


I always try to make them into separate cables to keep it the cleanest as possible without double wires.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Good point Lutro0! Double wires are no good... I got enough double wires to fix with the 24pin MB cable!


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

This is my first stab at it... Sorry about the potato picture


----------



## NomNomNom

BTW Canadians, dazmode carries 4:1 heatshrink under the label of Darkside heatshrink now. Its non adhesive too and in a multitude of sizes


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> Can't wait for my Color X and Shade 19 to ship! It's going to look great together


I love shade 19!


----------



## TeamBlue

Yummy. MDPC-X Aquamarine MK II over cat5e.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> This is my first stab at it... Sorry about the potato picture


Nice.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Nice.


I told you I was stealing your colors!!!


----------



## adi518

Glad you liked it. Rub the white lettering there with your fingernail.. cleaner look.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Glad you liked it. Rub the white lettering there with your fingernail.. cleaner look.


Oh I will sir! I'll do you proud!


----------



## tx-jose

Question for u guys.

How does one go about sleeving the cables on a PSU that has the new flat ribbon style cables?

PSU in question is A Seasonic SS-660XP2.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tx-jose*
> 
> Question for u guys.
> 
> How does one go about sleeving the cables on a PSU that has the new flat ribbon style cables?
> 
> PSU in question is A Seasonic SS-660XP2.


Just make your own cables.. OR.. you can carefully separate the ribbons into wires. It's not that hard actually. However, I'd stress it's much better, and perhaps easier to just make your own cables and leave the stock untouched.


----------



## DaaQ

Hey guys, I got a question on PCI-E cables.

I am making my own set for a Seasonic 1000w plat, and the PCI-E cables have 6+2 ends and I am going to make them 8 & 8 and of course they have double wires. I have already made them to length and pinned, just need to plug em all in.

Question is as long as I keep yellow into yellow, and black wires to black, it will be fine. Correct? All the blacks are just ground and they all go back to same bundle inside psu right?

The modular cable is 12 pin to 2x 6+2 , hence the double wires.


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Hey guys, I got a question on PCI-E cables.
> 
> I am making my own set for a Seasonic 1000w plat, and the PCI-E cables have 6+2 ends and I am going to make them 8 & 8 and of course they have double wires. I have already made them to length and pinned, just need to plug em all in.
> 
> Question is as long as I keep yellow into yellow, and black wires to black, it will be fine. Correct? All the blacks are just ground and they all go back to same bundle inside psu right?
> 
> The modular cable is 12 pin to 2x 6+2 , hence the double wires.


That will be fine, with the possible exception of the 24-pin (Is this safe to swap?)


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> That will be fine, with the possible exception of the 24-pin (Is this safe to swap?)


I will find out, because when doing my atx24 I did cross 2 wires by mistake, but they were both ground wires.

I thought I did see the answer to the pci-e question before, but was wanting some reassurance from others.

Thank you, I will post up if they fail the psu tester.


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Oh I will sir! I'll do you proud!


Polish nail remover works faster


----------



## tx-jose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Just make your own cables.. OR.. you can carefully separate the ribbons into wires. It's not that hard actually. However, I'd stress it's much better, and perhaps easier to just make your own cables and leave the stock untouched.


would the end that go to the PSU be proprietary or are they just standard 6pins and 8pins??

EDIT: this is the PSU

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151121&Tpk=seasonic%20660W&IsVirtualParent=1

Pretty much just copy the pin ous on the stock plugs and test with a PSU tester?

Would be my first "make your own" sleeve job and only my 2nd PSU sleeve job ever


----------



## socketus

yah, the psu end connectors are proprietary to the psu maker. What's standard is at the other end, connecting to the mobo, the gpus, the 8 pin ..


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tx-jose*
> 
> ...would the end that go to the PSU be proprietary or are they just standard 6pins and 8pins??...


*8 Pin Connector*

*6 Pin Connector*

*10 Pin Connector*

*18 Pin Connector*


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tx-jose*
> 
> would the end that go to the PSU be proprietary or are they just standard 6pins and 8pins??
> 
> EDIT: this is the PSU
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151121&Tpk=seasonic%20660W&IsVirtualParent=1
> 
> Pretty much just copy the pin ous on the stock plugs and test with a PSU tester?
> 
> Would be my first "make your own" sleeve job and only my 2nd PSU sleeve job ever


They are standard Molex parts, I can confirm that the parts Big Elf linked will work in this psu. The only psu end connectors that I know of that are non-standard are the ax1200 (not the i series) 6 pin sata/molex power connectors, the enermax double side wing red connectors and the 5 pin single row power connectors, they are available at moddiy.com... I know Lutro0 is getting those made for sale in the US.


----------



## Fade2Black

Quote:


> Glad you liked it. Rub the white lettering there with your fingernail.. cleaner look.


that colour scheme is pretty sexy, you might find another rig with it soon


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Do any of you dudes know where I can get premade bare cables like this?http://www.moddiy.com/products/Pre%252dcrimped-PSU-Modular-Cable-Wire-%28UL1007-18AWG%29.html


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Do any of you dudes know where I can get premade bare cables like this?http://www.moddiy.com/products/Pre%252dcrimped-PSU-Modular-Cable-Wire-%28UL1007-18AWG%29.html


Lutro0 Custom does them for special orders. www.lutro0customs.com =)


----------



## Fade2Black

hey, does your paracord melt so you can make heatshrinkless sleeving or do i have to use another type of sleeving?


----------



## MrYakuZa




----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fade2Black*
> 
> hey, does your paracord melt so you can make heatshrinkless sleeving or do i have to use another type of sleeving?


Yes my coreless paracord and 550 are perfect for heatshrinkless sleeving. I also make 2 types of pet sleeving one is make just for heatshrinkless the other just came out and can be used for both.


----------



## Fade2Black

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Yes my coreless paracord and 550 are perfect for heatshrinkless sleeving. I also make 2 types of pet sleeving one is make just for heatshrinkless the other just came out and can be used for both.


great, looks like i'll buy some soon


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Lutro0 Custom does them for special orders. www.lutro0customs.com =)


I will be getting a hold of you asap sir!!!


----------



## keenan

My military single sleeve...

http://abload.de/image.php?img=111111f3ugl.jpg


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Gorgeous!!!


----------



## Fade2Black

are you using noctua fans?


----------



## Fade2Black

i'd like some opinion here, my avatar shows the rig i' currently building, and i want to sleeve the cables, should i go with just red sleeving? or, should i mix colours


----------



## gdesmo

Mix red and black IMO.


----------



## Fade2Black

thanks for the reply








i think red and black would look good, just red might look a but dull, i'm going to order the paracord tomorrow hopefully if i can find the right stuff, i've got some good modding ideas for this case


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fade2Black*
> 
> thanks for the reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i think red and black would look good, just red might look a but dull, i'm going to order the paracord tomorrow hopefully if i can find the right stuff, i've got some good modding ideas for this case


if you're worried about it being dull, get the paracord with reflective strips, it looks awesome.


----------



## AcIdC0R3

Hey all, this thread is awesome, and yes I read all 960 pages.







Anyways I'm going to single sleeve my PSU, fans, SATA data cables and case cables, (will be a Corsair AX860) with MDPC sleeving and I thought of going all white with white shrink. Also on the way is a CM Cosmos II case, plan on switching out all the fans for the all white with LED's BitFenix Spectre Pro's. Not for certain now on an all white sleeve with white shrink job though. I'm getting this mobo below...



I'm thinking now I should add another color. What do you guys think? The Copper Brown or Color X to go with white?



There's some really good sleeving going on in here. Awesome job you all.


----------



## Ishinomori

Hey guys,

Anyone had experience with Mod/smart's new Kobra Maxcord Paracord like sleeving?

Looking to purchase 400ft of it from FCPU in UV Aqua Blue and Black

Let me know what you guys think.

Cheers


----------



## Big Elf

It says it's for 22AWG or smaller implying it's narrower than normal paracord? I think I'd double check the specs with FrozenCPU, it could just be a misprint.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ishinomori*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Anyone had experience with Mod/smart's new Kobra Maxcord Paracord like sleeving?
> 
> Looking to purchase 400ft of it from FCPU in UV Aqua Blue and Black
> 
> Let me know what you guys think.
> 
> Cheers


Its a great looking product but it is for small wires as the diameter is very small. I dont know that I would call it paracord its more of a small sized nylon sleeving, the weave and everything is different then paracord. great for sleeving fans and such.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> It says it's for 22AWG or smaller implying it's narrower than normal paracord? I think I'd double check the specs with FrozenCPU, it could just be a misprint.


I beleive you are correct, I bought some as I normally do with new stuff on the market and it is super small in diameter.


----------



## Ishinomori

Thanks for the info guys, its a shame as it's the only Paracord (or similiar to paracord) that i have found that claims to be UV blue.

Guess i may just go the military store route then to get actual paracord.

Cheers,

Ishi


----------



## roflcopter159

So, I just started my adventure with paracord sleeving on a non-modular power supply (OCZ ZS750W). I have ran into a few questions which may sound simple, but I want to get this job done right. I am using Lutro0's heatshrinkless paracord method as shown in his youtube video. Now for the questions:

1. How do you (people who have used this method or similar ones) keep from burning yourself with the melted paracord when you tap it down onto the pin to keep it thin/in place?
2. It won't matter if the pin gets a bit blackened from the flame right?
3. How do you (people with non-modular/semi-modular power supplies) keep the psu end of the sleeving in place? One zip tie per wire? Or a zip tie per cable? Something completely different?
4. How do you go about sleeving the SATA Power cables that are all in a line like this?
5. Same as #4 but with 4 pin that looks like this?
6. Same as #4 and #5 but for 6+2 pins that look like this?
7. Based on my CPU 8 pin, do you have any suggestions to improve my sleeving?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roflcopter159*
> 
> So, I just started my adventure with paracord sleeving on a non-modular power supply (OCZ ZS750W). I have ran into a few questions which may sound simple, but I want to get this job done right. I am using Lutro0's heatshrinkless paracord method as shown in his youtube video. Now for the questions:
> 
> 1. How do you (people who have used this method or similar ones) keep from burning yourself with the melted paracord when you tap it down onto the pin to keep it thin/in place?
> 2. It won't matter if the pin gets a bit blackened from the flame right?
> 3. How do you (people with non-modular/semi-modular power supplies) keep the psu end of the sleeving in place? One zip tie per wire? Or a zip tie per cable? Something completely different?
> 4. How do you go about sleeving the SATA Power cables that are all in a line like this?
> 5. Same as #4 but with 4 pin that looks like this?
> 6. Same as #4 and #5 but for 6+2 pins that look like this?
> 7. Based on my CPU 8 pin, do you have any suggestions to improve my sleeving?


1. I just tap on it very lightly a few times, so I dont have my fingers held down to feel the heat as much.
2. i do not believe it will matter. It is still metal.
3. I use a small amount of heatshrink on the psu end after melting the paracord down. Kept it from moving for me.
4. I tried sleving those individually, but found it was best to just leave the middle strips alone. Also heard from other members that they just remade those with a solid color.
5. I'm not very good at sleeving the double wires, so I'll let somene else answer that.
6. I personally would leave that small piece itself. Somebody else mighthave a better idea though.
7. That looks pretty good to me, be sure to get the paracord tight all the way down the wire, and with some practice you should be right on your way! Good Luck!


----------



## roflcopter159

Thanks a bunch Destrto, Ill keep your advice in mind. I just ordered some heatshrink to use on the psu end, and I think I am going to try and do the 4 pin/SATA with heatshrink as well.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roflcopter159*
> 
> Thanks a bunch Destrto, Ill keep your advice in mind. I just ordered some heatshrink to use on the psu end, and I think I am going to try and do the 4 pin/SATA with heatshrink as well.


No problem, I know a lot of other guys are better at paracord than I. But thats the basics as far as getting the paracord to sit still. Heatshrinking the entire length in between the connectors might work well for making all of the wires uniform in color. But it would sortof be a bit of a waste of heatshrink to do all that.


----------



## Zooty Cat

I'm sleeving a Corsair AX650 and using EVGA 670's in my build. I don't need the extra two pins on the PCI-E cables because the 670's use two six pins. I was just going to leave them off but was wondering if there is something better that I should be doing with them?









Thanks


----------



## roflcopter159

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zooty Cat*
> 
> I'm sleeving a Corsair AX650 and using EVGA 670's in my build. I don't need the extra two pins on the PCI-E cables because the 670's use two six pins. I was just going to leave them off but was wondering if there is something better that I should be doing with them?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


If you don't need them now, and you aren't planning on upgrading to something that will need them, you can definitely leave them off.


----------



## Ishinomori

Why not sleeve them individually then cable tie off the extra two behind the mobo tray?


----------



## Zooty Cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roflcopter159*
> 
> If you don't need them now, and you aren't planning on upgrading to something that will need them, you can definitely leave them off.


Thanks. I'm doing custom length cables and sleeving so if I need them at some later date I can make a new set of cables.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ishinomori*
> 
> Why not sleeve them individually then cable tie off the extra two behind the mobo tray?


That is what I would do normally but I'm going for the super clean look, even behind the back panel.


----------



## timerwin63

Hello,
I was wondering if anyone here would be willing to do custom cables/sleeves for my Corsair AX760. I would pay for shipping both ways, cost of the sleeving, shrink, etc. (MDPC), and a tip, however much that may be, within reason. I'd love to do it myself, but unfortunately, don't have the time or the skills and abilities to start and effectively finish the entire PSU.

If anyone is interested, PM me.

P.S. Sorry if I put this in the wrong place, I really didn't mean to. I just figured that since this is the cable sleeving thread, it would be an appropriate place to post.


----------



## socketus

Get to the Sleeving faq thread in this forum - check out Lutr0's listings for just that service you're looking for.


----------



## WebsterXC

Whipped up a Silverstone SFX 450W for a buddy of mine. I used Kobra HD Black with black heatshrink. Turned out pretty nice. Took me about three hours total; I only sleeved the cables I needed and chopped the rest. All the rig has peripherial wise is a 35X pump and hard drive, so I left a molex end coming out of the power supply for a simple custom cable.


----------



## bigredishott

What size paracord do you guys use for sleeving. I am guessing it comes in different diameters.


----------



## shadow water

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigredishott*
> 
> What size paracord do you guys use for sleeving. I am guessing it comes in different diameters.


most people use 550 paracord
i did this and was able to fit 2 wires through with alot of wiggling but i dont think paracord comes in many other standardized sizes.


----------



## nleksan

550 Paracord is ideal, but you can use 450 cord for smaller wires (I personally think thin wires, like fan wires or pump tach wires, look much better with 450 than 550 if they're individually sleeved and not sleeved 3/4-in-1)


----------



## TeamBlue

Not my build, but it is my sleeving work in here: Cooler Master SPH 1050 OEM set sleeved in MDPC-X Black/Yellow


----------



## Norse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Not my build, but it is my sleeving work in here: Cooler Master SPH 1050 OEM set sleeved in MDPC-X Black/Yellow


Looks awesome sleeving


----------



## ledzepp3

If anyone has experience with the Silverstone Strider _non-Evolution_ model (The ST-1000G), then you might be able to help me







I'd really like to not have the awful 6+2 pin cables with the branching 6 pins, so I'm wondering if I can just make another scratch cable that doesn't use those pins. The PSU comes with two 6+2 single cables (not branching), and the other two branching cables- they both use the same connector on the PSU.

I'm assuming that'd be fine if I did that, but would that work?


----------



## gdubc

As long as you keep the same pin out you are fine.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> If anyone has experience with the Silverstone Strider _non-Evolution_ model (The ST-1000G), then you might be able to help me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd really like to not have the awful 6+2 pin cables with the branching 6 pins, so I'm wondering if I can just make another scratch cable that doesn't use those pins. The PSU comes with two 6+2 single cables (not branching), and the other two branching cables- they both use the same connector on the PSU.
> 
> I'm assuming that'd be fine if I did that, but would that work?


well, this link might help you


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> As long as you keep the same pin out you are fine.


Also you can move the pins around as long as you keep 12v to 12v and ground to ground. That will help you clean it up a bit.


----------



## ledzepp3

I'm gonna go ahead and assume that I need to keep the capacitors? Never sleeved before and If I can clean that up, I'm definitely going to do that.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I'm gonna go ahead and assume that I need to keep the capacitors? Never sleeved before and If I can clean that up, I'm definitely going to do that.


You don't need to keep them, they are a precaution to keep certain GPUs from squeeling and making obtuse noise.

I would clip the caps from two of the cables, hook up your cards and see if they make any obtuse noise. If they don't, then I wouldn't bother keeping them on.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I'm gonna go ahead and assume that I need to keep the capacitors? Never sleeved before and If I can clean that up, I'm definitely going to do that.


The caps can be removed, infact depending on the psu - most caps can be removed with little to no problems as long as you keep some headroom on your psu. For example not pushing it to its full limit.


----------



## ledzepp3

I wouldn't be loading it all the way anyways, at max (overestimating here) it would pull about 875W total, and the ST-1000G is max rated at 1000. I won't be over clocking my 7970's _that_ hard. If they do make any noise, I'll just put the caps back farther in the cable to keep them out of sight in the motherboard compartment. Thanks Tater and Lutro


----------



## Heff04

I've sleeved a few PSU's and when I finally got my new Corsair AX860 I had fun with one of the PCI-E connectors. Instead of having 2 different 8 pin connectors they have 2 built into one... see picture *rat's nest* below



This was a pain in my ass to sleeve lol.. I'd rather teabag a blender than do that again


----------



## pbaines

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heff04*
> 
> I've sleeved a few PSU's and when I finally got my new Corsair AX860 I had fun with one of the PCI-E connectors. Instead of having 2 different 8 pin connectors they have 2 built into one... see picture *rat's nest* below
> 
> *snip*
> 
> This was a pain in my ass to sleeve lol.. I'd rather teabag a blender than do that again


Oh come on man! They're easy peasy







This is my AX760i Cable (Re wired)



Finally getting some good perfect sleeve results!


----------



## oelkanne

nice work


----------



## Egami

Cooked some spaghetti for my rig.


----------



## adi518

That's a five stars job, well done.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> That's a five stars job, well done.


Thanks! Man that stuff really puts your fingers through hell.


----------



## Heff04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbaines*
> 
> Oh come on man! They're easy peasy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my AX760i Cable (Re wired)
> 
> 
> 
> Finally getting some good perfect sleeve results!


Wow! I'm jealous! That looks fantastic! +1 for showing me up haha!

Cheers!


----------



## kingchris

before and after (trimmed to suit)


----------



## Destrto

So, how are they connected to the sata in the "after" pic? Or are you just showing the better cable run.


----------



## kingchris

sorry better cables


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> sorry better cables


Gotcha. They do look noticeably neater in the after shot. Thats what counts.


----------



## soul801

First time sleeving! I don't thing I'll be doing it again, I have blisters on both hands and hurts just to move them lol.


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> First time sleeving! I don't thing I'll be doing it again, I have blisters on both hands and hurts just to move them lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very nice. good work.

the silly thing been, the next time you sleeve it wont hurt. !!! my first sleeve job, cuts, blisters (what a mess) since then, only silly little cuts and no blisters


----------



## Heff04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> before and after (trimmed to suit)


I gotta ask, what are you using to keep those cables so nice and clean? I use the huge honking cable dividers.. I like how sleek and subtle yours look


----------



## szeged

Looks like he stitched them together.


----------



## kingchris

thanks heff, just using cross stich thread, had some hanging around. good if your doing a coloured build you can get the thread to match


----------



## soul801

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> very nice. good work.
> 
> the silly thing been, the next time you sleeve it wont hurt. !!! my first sleeve job, cuts, blisters (what a mess) since then, only silly little cuts and no blisters


Thanks! Well after I heal I'll sleeve my wife's computer.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> Thanks! Well after I heal I'll sleeve my wife's computer.


How did you go about de-pinning the ATX? I know my very first sleeve attempt I used the staple method; it completely tore up my fingers and took forever to heal. The $12 ATX pin remover that FrozenCPU sells was worth every penny.


----------



## Nexo

White sleeving always looks good.


----------



## soul801

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> How did you go about de-pinning the ATX? I know my very first sleeve attempt I used the staple method; it completely tore up my fingers and took forever to heal. The $12 ATX pin remover that FrozenCPU sells was worth every penny.


I used the ATX pin remover from FrozenCPU.


----------



## pbaines

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> How did you go about de-pinning the ATX? I know my very first sleeve attempt I used the staple method; it completely tore up my fingers and took forever to heal. The $12 ATX pin remover that FrozenCPU sells was worth every penny.


Not sure how you munched your fingers... lol

When I do the staple method, I put the stables in. Get a pair of long nose pliers and push them as far as they go. No injuries!

But yes, a lot easier to get the right tool for the right job, the ATX Pin remover is just a no brainer to use


----------



## kingchris

well mine are now done for this build.


----------



## NewHighScore

^^ Looks awesome I love how your gpu is mounted.

Does anyone have or know where I can find the pinout for the Silverstone Strider Gold Evolution 750w PCIE cables? I am moving from dual 6 pin gpu to dual 8 pin gpu and need to sleeve and pin 2 more wires but I'm unsure of how the pinout is. Is the remainder 2 cables just ground wires?


----------



## luciddreamer124

I believe with that PSU, the top row on the PCI-E connectors are either all ground or all 12v, so just check the other wires, the extra 2 should follow the pattern.


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> ^^ Looks awesome I love how your gpu is mounted.
> 
> Does anyone have or know where I can find the pinout for the Silverstone Strider Gold Evolution 750w PCIE cables? I am moving from dual 6 pin gpu to dual 8 pin gpu and need to sleeve and pin 2 more wires but I'm unsure of how the pinout is. Is the remainder 2 cables just ground wires?


yes they are both ground on the 8 pin gpu.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> yes they are both ground on the 8 pin gpu.


So in this case does for the extra 2 pin does it matter which wire goes where since they are both ground?


----------



## gdubc

Nope, it doesn't matter. Just keep them as ground (or whatever they were originally) and you will be fine.


----------



## Chomuco

new!! gooodd




















http://imgur.com/a


----------



## Destrto

What is that, a computer for ants?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> What is that, a computer for ants?


Hey man, ants need to game as well. otherwise is work work work.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomuco*
> 
> new!! gooodd
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a


Excellent photos.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

So from pictures I've seen. The Corsair AXi series has no double wires on the 24pin...


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> So from pictures I've seen. The Corsair AXi series has no double wires on the 24pin...


Looks like it might have on one of the 3.3v pinouts but maybe not needed. *This* might help.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Looks like it might have on one of the 3.3v pinouts but maybe not needed. *This* might help.


Good enough for me. The AX860i and AX760i all have the same pinout as the 1200i. Soooooo I guess I'll find out, it's gotta be better than doing 4 different doubles on my SeaSonic!


----------



## Lutro0

For those that have taken the time to make and find pinouts for powersupplies, please take a moment and share them in the PSU Pinout Repository!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1420796/repository-of-power-supply-pin-outs/0_20


----------



## adi518

Mike, can you add hd audio pin-out? Turns out it's not easy to find a proper pin-out scheme with the standard colors and everything...

Anyway, I sleeved couple of AP181 for a friend's FT02. This fan has a nice pcb with 6 solders, 3 for the regular 3-pin we all know and 3 more for a low/high trigger button. I removed the silly trigger and solder-bridged the yellow and black (associated with the button) so it's capped @ high speed and mobo will lower rpm with it's smart-control feature (z77 mpower).

Relatively easy fan to sleeve:


----------



## AcIdC0R3

I've sleeved all of my fans while I'm waiting for my Corsair AX860 to arrive. I going with a white and red sleeving job and chose to sleeve the fans in white sleeving. Since the wires are black I've had to use white electrical tape but this makes the wire very bulky. Has anybody had any luck with spray painting there black wires white? I bought some of THIS paint in hopes that it will work better. Has anybody had any luck with painting there wires?


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AcIdC0R3*
> 
> I've sleeved all of my fans while I'm waiting for my Corsair AX860 to arrive. I going with a white and red sleeving job and chose to sleeve the fans in white sleeving. Since the wires are black I've had to use white electrical tape but this makes the wire very bulky. Has anybody had any luck with spray painting there black wires white? I bought some of THIS paint in hopes that it will work better. Has anybody had any luck with painting there wires?


yah, sure ... this guy, Solonowarion


----------



## AcIdC0R3

Thanks that's reassuring that he made it work. I'll just spray paint mine when I get all my gear. It'll be a whole lot easier than trying to tape every cable.


----------



## adi518

you can also get white wire and solder instead of the black ones.


----------



## Lutro0

Quick tip.

When you paint your cables please try to use a paint that is elastic as if its not it will chip and make a huge mess. Also painted wires are harder to sleeve.


----------



## Lutro0

I havent posted any work for a while so here goes.


_LC StiffLine_


_LC StiffLine_


_There is white wire under that sleeve, its the new Teleios._


_LC StiffLine_


_LC Coreless Paracord_


This is also LC Teleios Sleeve.


_LC Teleios Sleeve_


_LC Teleios Sleeve_


_LC Teleios Sleeve_


_This is LC StiffLine Sleeve_


_LC Teleios Sleeve_


_Brown LC StiffLine_


_Rust LC Coreless Paracord_

All Items were made with supplies from my shop.


----------



## EPiiKK

I was sleeving some cables and noticed that, according to this pic 5th cable from bottom right, -5V, is empty, i have not removed the cable. and from left top to bottom, 2nd, 3rd, 5th and 9th cable have two wires going in and the two wires go into two different pins on the other end.
Could i buy extensions and sleeve them just normally, or would that cause issues with these weird wires?


----------



## pbaines

Great work Lutro0, fantastic work as always! Miss the heatshrink though









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EPiiKK*
> 
> I was sleeving some cables and noticed that, according to this pic 5th cable from bottom right, -5V, is empty, i have not removed the cable. and from left top to bottom, 2nd, 3rd, 5th and 9th cable have two wires going in and the two wires go into two different pins on the other end.
> Could i buy extensions and sleeve them just normally, or would that cause issues with these weird wires?


Most power supplies have the missing pin that you are talking about, haven't actually seen a full 24-pin before, always been a 23 pin!

You will be fine to make an extension, because at the end of the day... It is an extension so just making the current go through an extra 15cm or whatever length your extension is


----------



## jordo_123

just got a package from Nils as always with his works of art on the package. lets just hope i ordered enough


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jordo_123*
> 
> ...lets just hope i ordered enough


First Law of Sleeving - You never order enough.


----------



## jordo_123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> First Law of Sleeving - You never order enough.


already after looking through i know i have nowhere near enough, and i also forgot to get enough heat-shrink for the sleeving i have. never sleeved before took me 20 minutes to sleeve my first sata cable, looks not bad just kinda turned my green heat-shrink into grey on one side with my lighter by accident. ohh well we all learn from mistakes or at least i hope we do.
will get a photo up of my first attempt.


----------



## jordo_123

here you go


----------



## Big Elf

Use a heat gun to shrink the heatshrink to avoid discolouration, failing that then try and use just the blue part of the flame on the lighter and do a lot of quick passes.


----------



## jordo_123

yeah i started using the tip of the flame by accident hopefully i get better with practice, still not bad for a first attempt


----------



## Destrto

Not bad at all for a first attempt. Keep practicing, you'll get the hang of it.


----------



## WebsterXC

Lutro0, could you explain the Teleios sleeving? I mean what's so special about it?

Got a birthday sleeving project coming up, may try some out


----------



## jordo_123

just an update on my sleeving


----------



## AcIdC0R3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Quick tip.
> 
> When you paint your cables please try to use a paint that is elastic as if its not it will chip and make a huge mess. Also painted wires are harder to sleeve.


Hrm, I didn't know that, why is it harder to sleeve painted wires? Is it because of chipping or something?


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AcIdC0R3*
> 
> Hrm, I didn't know that, why is it harder to sleeve painted wires? Is it because of chipping or something?


The vast majority of people won't get a Perfectly smooth coat of paint, so the sledging will tend to snag


----------



## AcIdC0R3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> The vast majority of people won't get a Perfectly smooth coat of paint, so the sledging will tend to snag


Ah, I see. Thanks for the quick response.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Lutro0, could you explain the Teleios sleeving? I mean what's so special about it?
> 
> Got a birthday sleeving project coming up, may try some out


This will explain everything. http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-teleios-sleeving-black-25ft


----------



## 14kskim

Can anyone give me advice on sleeving this cable?


http://imgur.com/xbQeSei


I only need one of the 6 pins, so I am thinking of loosening the crimps and cutting off the extra 6 pin. Could I have some confirmation before I do this?


----------



## eskamobob1

this should work... the other option would be to cut both in the middle and re solder for probably a tiny bit cleaner look... that said, i highly recommend (to everyone) to make custom cables if you can instead of sleeving what you already have


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> this should work... the other option would be to cut both in the middle and re solder for probably a tiny bit cleaner look... that said, *i highly recommend (to everyone) to make custom cables if you can instead of sleeving what you already have*


Agreed!


----------



## wermad

Any one using micro paracord? (2mm or 1.2mm)


----------



## bomberjun

How did I do? This is my first time to sleeve after watching lutro0's videos repeatedly.









Thanks for sharing your knowledge Lutro0!


----------



## Big Elf

That looks pretty good to me. The only thing I'd suggest is to change the connectors on the fan extensions and molex connectors on the FC8 to black ones.


----------



## bomberjun

can I just paint them with black?


----------



## Zooty Cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomberjun*
> 
> How did I do? This is my first time to sleeve after watching lutro0's videos repeatedly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for sharing your knowledge Lutro0!


Looks good. You can still change out the white fan connector for black ones.


----------



## TigerStripes

This was initially supposed to be just a sleeving job, but has since turned into completely custom cables. I originally started with heatshrinnk, then decided heatshrinkless looked better and was gave a more consistent sleeve stretch. Have to thank lutro0 for all his expertise!


----------



## Egami

Can't go wrong with black and white. That first pic with white cable and black sleeve and vice versa is gorgeous!


----------



## TigerStripes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egami*
> 
> Can't go wrong with black and white. That first pic with white cable and black sleeve and vice versa is gorgeous!


Thanks! Unfortunately, that connector was the best of any I made, the others were a lot less pretty. I had some issues getting the sleeve to exactly the right length, so while I could get results like this on one end of the cable, the other looked a bit messy.

But all in all, I prefer the look of heatshrinkless. It seems to give a stronger bond between the cable and the sleeve, too.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TigerStripes*
> 
> But all in all, I prefer the look of heatshrinkless. It seems to give a stronger bond between the cable and the sleeve, too.


Found out the same when doing my own cables. Plus things slide in and out so much more easily


----------



## SDMODNoob

Hey guys, any tips on doing inline sata power cable and daisy chain molex cables? I did an attempt of it but its really ugly because there are spaces at the connectors. I could not get it to go right up to the connector and the cable kind of shifts when I try to shove it back between the sharp metal connectors. The molex daisy chain I figure you just bend the middle molex and slide sleeve through?


----------



## Big Elf

Have a look at the *How To Sleeve Sata Pass-Through or Crimp Style Power Connectors?* in the FAQs


----------



## SDMODNoob

Ya thats what I read before I began my sleeving. It just seems like impossible to get it perfectly flushed against the connector because the wire shifts when I am trying to push it back between the metal prongs. I ended up having to use a flathead screwdriver to push the wire back between the prongs and now on some wires there are gaps on either side of the connectors. I do like the idea of the sleeving the whole cable then making an incision where you push it back into the metal prongs. Can anyone clarify on that method? Like how do you attach the sleeving after you make the cut? That clean look in the picture of the FAQ is what I would be aiming for if anyone could help.


----------



## Egami

After making the cut put a dab of glue on top of the cable and once dried add the connector?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Anyone in Chicago willing to sleeve my cables for me? I sleeved my last psu and did not enjoy it at all. Lol


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Anyone in Chicago willing to sleeve my cables for me? I sleeved my last psu and did not enjoy it at all. Lol


Shoot me a pm!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Shoot me a pm!


Pm sent


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So sleeving away on my Silverstone Strider Plus 850W ST85F-P and I ran into a bit of a problem doing shinkless with this Imperial Red paracord, once its melted onto the pin where the crimp connects on on the wire is to fat to get back into the connector, the Black goes in not a problem but the red is a pita





Any suggestions to get around this? Iv been using round nose pliers to open the connector up enough to get it in







but that wont work on my 24 pin









Also I wanna make my 8pin CPU cable shorter, to about 10-15cm should I just cut the wires to the size I need or buy new wire and remake it from scratch?

Thanks


----------



## roflcopter159

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So sleeving away on my Silverstone Strider Plus 850W ST85F-P and I ran into a bit of a problem doing shinkless with this Imperial Red paracord, once its melted onto the pin where the crimp connects on on the wire is to fat to get back into the connector, the Black goes in not a problem but the red is a pita
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions to get around this? Iv been using round nose pliers to open the connector up enough to get it in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but that wont work on my 24 pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I wanna make my 8pin CPU cable shorter, to about 10-15cm should I just cut the wires to the size I need or buy new wire and remake it from scratch?
> 
> Thanks


I would try and flatten out the paracord more using your fingers after you melt it. Press down around the pin keeping the paracord tight on it. It should just slip in after that. Also, if you are planning on making the cables shorter, the best thing to do would be make new ones, the quickest way would be to just cut them to length. That's my opinion, if someone wants to correct me, by all means go for it haha.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roflcopter159*
> 
> I would try and flatten out the paracord more using your fingers after you melt it. Press down around the pin keeping the paracord tight on it. It should just slip in after that. Also, if you are planning on making the cables shorter, the best thing to do would be make new ones, the quickest way would be to just cut them to length. That's my opinion, if someone wants to correct me, by all means go for it haha.


I did try to flatten it out a little bit but that still didnt get it small enough, even tried crimping it a little tighter lol, I also forgot to add it goes into the PSU connector fine its just the mobo side of things it doesnt like









I was thinking maybe remaking it would be best, just unsure of the wire I need lol


----------



## gdubc

I suggest something from fellow forum member Lutro0's shop. *Here* is the page you need. Lots of good stuff in that shop, I highly recommend Lutro0's goods.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So sleeving away on my Silverstone Strider Plus 850W ST85F-P and I ran into a bit of a problem doing shinkless with this Imperial Red paracord, once its melted onto the pin where the crimp connects on on the wire is to fat to get back into the connector, the Black goes in not a problem but the red is a pita
> 
> Any suggestions to get around this? Iv been using round nose pliers to open the connector up enough to get it in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but that wont work on my 24 pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I wanna make my 8pin CPU cable shorter, to about 10-15cm should I just cut the wires to the size I need or buy new wire and remake it from scratch?
> 
> Thanks


Honestly its just all in your tapering method, the difference in color of paracord should not matter but the red might be a little wider as 550 para does vary a tiny bit is circumference. I suggest watching my heatshrinkless paracord video guide again and watching how I taper the paracord down, and exactly where I place it and how much I melt are all parts of it. Also you may ave to trim some of the excess melted nylon sometimes as too much material gets melted from time to time and you need to get rid of it to make it fit. A good flush cutter works well.

Also the persons advice about the wire above me is spot on.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I suggest something from fellow forum member Lutro0's shop. *Here* is the page you need. Lots of good stuff in that shop, I highly recommend Lutro0's goods.


Im tempted to do a buy from Lutro0s shop







didnt realize he had wire to








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Honestly its just all in your tapering method, the difference in color of paracord should not matter but the red might be a little wider as 550 para does vary a tiny bit is circumference. I suggest watching my heatshrinkless paracord video guide again and watching how I taper the paracord down, and exactly where I place it and how much I melt are all parts of it. Also you may ave to trim some of the excess melted nylon sometimes as too much material gets melted from time to time and you need to get rid of it to make it fit. A good flush cutter works well.
> 
> Also the persons advice about the wire above me is spot on.


Thanks Lutro0 I forgot about your video







. I checked and the red is slightly wider then the black







I have been trimming the excess away but it probably is just the way I taper it









Guess I'll give this another try later


----------



## badtaylorx

i would just like to personally say that i respect the heck out of anybody that can actually get pcie and motherboard power cables apart.... ive tried everything, and it just frustrates the hell ata me....

so a big thumbs up to you guys....









i do have a question tho....

anybody seen this before??? its off of the new EVGA 1000w P2 motherboard cable....

http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/badtaylorx/media/WP_20130918_00_00_49_Pro_zpsf38fec38.jpg.html


----------



## xxpenguinxx

They're just extra capacitors to help keep the voltage stable. You can just cut them off or solder them higher up on the wires that way you can tuck them behind your motherboard. Personally I like to keep them on there because the engineers thought they may be needed.


----------



## badtaylorx

thanx


----------



## Pidoma

Sleeved my first Modular PSU. I have the 24Pin and 8Pin done. Working on the PCI-E and also the SATA Power cables.

How did I do?





Will post picture of my 24Pin tonight.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pidoma*
> 
> Sleeved my first Modular PSU. I have the 24Pin and 8Pin done. Working on the PCI-E and also the SATA Power cables.
> 
> How did I do?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will post picture of my 24Pin tonight.


You're doing great!

I got my sleeves ordered, will be sleeving a similar power supply. Not looking forward to it. I hate sleeving and respect anyone that does it.


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> You're doing great!
> 
> I got my sleeves ordered, will be sleeving a similar power supply. Not looking forward to it. I hate sleeving and respect anyone that does it.


Thanks! I loved sleeving. It was fun. Able to watch baseball and work on my computer at the same time. It is one of the few tasks you can complete while sitting on couch.


----------



## adi518

Sleeving with heatshrink is where it's at...


----------



## iBored

Epic sleeves


----------



## Cakewalk_S

I see a lot of extensions sleeved, meaning both sides are the connectors, how do you guys like to measure the appropriate length of sleeving material for each wire? finish one end and wait to cut the other end?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> I see a lot of extensions sleeved, meaning both sides are the connectors, how do you guys like to measure the appropriate length of sleeving material for each wire? finish one end and wait to cut the other end?


Check this thread out, it should answer a lot of your questions. *Cable sleeving faq*


----------



## Big Elf

I create a 'template' wire that I then use to mark the lengths for all the others. However before cutting it to size and using it you need to stretch the insulation a few times otherwise it will actually stretch a few mm when you start measuring out the wires. Unless you do this stretching you might start out measuring 300mm lengths and finish with some of them up to 302mm in length.


----------



## Pidoma

Oh I love sleeving


----------



## Egami

Pidoma, I completely share your sentiments.


----------



## Pimphare

Has anyone here tried paracord 550, 425, or 275 for sleeving? I'm curious as to what size of paracord I should use for psu cables, fan cables, and front IO cables.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Has anyone here tried paracord 550, 425, or 275 for sleeving? I'm curious as to what size of paracord I should use for psu cables, fan cables, and front IO cables.


I've only used 550 in the past, but it works fine for 16 and 18 AWG power supply cables, front panel connectors and fan cables. You'd need something larger for USB cables and SATA data cables obviously.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> I've only used 550 in the past, but it works fine for 16 and 18 AWG power supply cables, front panel connectors and fan cables. You'd need something larger for USB cables and SATA data cables obviously.


Thanks for your reply. I was originally wanting to make my own wires from scratch using 18 AWG, but I might just sleeve my existing psu cables. I think I'm going to go with 425 being that it's 3mm in diameter.

Edit: On second thought I think I'll go with 550 just be safe.


----------



## Big Elf

The narrower diameter paracord might be perfect for sleeving the motherboard connectors singly but the 550 is just about the perfect diameter for sleeving the rest of the PSU cables.

Unfortunately I can't buy the micro or 275 paracord in the UK and US suppliers charge silly money in shipping ($42) for a $10 order so can't really comment on which is the best of the narrower diameter ones.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Work in progress


----------



## gdubc

That looks pretty good! To think, you didn't want to try it yourself!


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

looks good


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Thanks for your reply. I was originally wanting to make my own wires from scratch using 18 AWG, but I might just sleeve my existing psu cables. I think I'm going to go with 425 being that it's 3mm in diameter.
> 
> Edit: On second thought I think I'll go with 550 just be safe.


Yeah, 550 will be perfect for your stock cables. Personally I think 16 AWG gives the best results with 550, mainly because it's easier to train and hold its shape better. One of the drawbacks of paracord is it doesn't rain nearly as well as PET, but it'll still turn our nicely if you make sure you stretch it over the wire tightly. Good luck with sleeving! It can be an addictive hobby lol.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> That looks pretty good! To think, you didn't want to try it yourself!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> looks good


It's a nightmare. Got 4 PCI, and the 8pin harness for the CPU sleeved. Still gotta do the motherboard 24 pin :-( which I need to cut and solder the double wires. That will be for tomorrow, I'm done for today.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> It's a nightmare. Got 4 PCI, and the 8pin harness for the CPU sleeved. Still gotta do the motherboard 24 pin :-( which I need to cut and solder the double wires. That will be for tomorrow, I'm done for today.


Looks good tho









I still have 70% of my cables to do, just waiting on stuff I ordered from Lutro0s shop to get here


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Looks good tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have 70% of my cables to do, just waiting on stuff I ordered from Lutro0s shop to get here


Nice, I saw some of his videos on YouTube lol
They really helped me sleeve. It just takes a long time assuming no pins get damaged.

I need to figure out how I'm gonna sleeve the sata power harness. That one looks tricky.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

24 Pin wasn't that bad. Almost done!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Yeah, 550 will be perfect for your stock cables. Personally I think 16 AWG gives the best results with 550, mainly because it's easier to train and hold its shape better. One of the drawbacks of paracord is it doesn't rain nearly as well as PET, but it'll still turn our nicely if you make sure you stretch it over the wire tightly. Good luck with sleeving! It can be an addictive hobby lol.


Well so far today I've managed to shorten my stock psu cables for my gpus. It's a pain to reuse molex pins. I should've just ordered some, but I was anxious to get started. Just waiting for my 550 paracord to come in now. I ordered neon green, charcoal gray, and black. I see you like green too!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 Pin wasn't that bad. Almost done!


Make sure to trim up the solder on the double wires and put hs over them


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Thanks for the tip, I ended up redoing the solder on two of the wires, it was too bulky once I put some heat shrink.

Any suggestions for the SATA power connectors? I got everything done, except for those.

Great guides BTW, I came across your channel on YouTube.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Make sure to trim up the solder on the double wires and put hs over them


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

All done, except for the SATA Power connectors. Gotta plan it out and order more sleeve.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> 
> 
> All done, except for the SATA Power connectors. Gotta plan it out and order more sleeve.


Nice work. Can't wait for my sleeving to get here!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Thanks for the tip, I ended up redoing the solder on two of the wires, it was too bulky once I put some heat shrink.
> 
> Any suggestions for the SATA power connectors? I got everything done, except for those.
> 
> Great guides BTW, I came across your channel on YouTube.


Thanks! If you read the FAQ stickied on this forum it shows you great examples of this cable. Its pretty straight forward. If your psu allows it I try to make single connections for sata power using the crimp style sata connetors. It is more cables but they look cleaner IMO.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/0_20

https://lutro0-customs.myshopify.com/products/sata-power-crimp-style-connector


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Thanks! If you read the FAQ stickied on this forum it shows you great examples of this cable. Its pretty straight forward. If your psu allows it I try to make single connections for sata power using the crimp style sata connetors. It is more cables but they look cleaner IMO.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/0_20
> 
> https://lutro0-customs.myshopify.com/products/sata-power-crimp-style-connector


I agree, single connections look cleaner. My psu (probably most psus) has the single cables for multiple connections that I do not like. It just doesn't tidy up too good. I'm modifying my psu cables to make them single connections and then sleeving them.


----------



## kpoeticg

Can anybody let me know if splicing any of these to 18AWG or Lutro's thin diameter 16AWG could negatively affect the PSU performance? It's an Antec HCP-1300 Platinum. Multiple 12v rails.

Double 18AWG Ground
Double 18AWG Ground
Double 18AWG 12v
Triple 22AWG 12v
16AWG + 24AWG 5V
18AWG + 24AWG Ground
18AWG + 24AWG 3.3V

Thanks. It's mostly the Triple 12v crimp that I'm a little nervous about. But maybe there's no reason to be....


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I agree, single connections look cleaner. My psu (probably most psus) has the single cables for multiple connections that I do not like. It just doesn't tidy up too good. I'm modifying my psu cables to make them single connections and then sleeving them.


Yeah, since I only need 3 sata power connectors, I'm just going to split the harness into 3. Thanks guys!


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Can anybody let me know if splicing any of these to 18AWG or Lutro's thin diameter 16AWG could negatively affect the PSU performance? It's an Antec HCP-1300 Platinum. Multiple 12v rails.
> 
> Double 18AWG Ground
> Double 18AWG Ground
> Double 18AWG 12v
> Triple 22AWG 12v
> 16AWG + 24AWG 5V
> 18AWG + 24AWG Ground
> 18AWG + 24AWG 3.3V
> 
> Thanks. It's mostly the Triple 12v crimp that I'm a little nervous about. But maybe there's no reason to be....


I highly doubt it, both 16 and 18AWG wires should handle the same current. You should be just fine.


----------



## kpoeticg

Nice. Thanx for replying. I feel better about doing my 24 Pin now =)


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Nice. Thanx for replying. I feel better about doing my 24 Pin now =)


No Worries man.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Can anybody let me know if splicing any of these to 18AWG or Lutro's thin diameter 16AWG could negatively affect the PSU performance? It's an Antec HCP-1300 Platinum. Multiple 12v rails.
> 
> Double 18AWG Ground
> Double 18AWG Ground
> Double 18AWG 12v
> Triple 22AWG 12v
> 16AWG + 24AWG 5V
> 18AWG + 24AWG Ground
> 18AWG + 24AWG 3.3V
> 
> Thanks. It's mostly the Triple 12v crimp that I'm a little nervous about. But maybe there's no reason to be....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I highly doubt it, both 16 and 18AWG wires should handle the same current. You should be just fine.


There is a definitely a difference in the wires ability to do its job. But a good 18awg will be able to perform just fine for about 90 percent of PSU Units. LC thin diameter 16awg will be very close to the diameter of most stock 18awg. But the way the wire handles will be different. If you bend it, it will hold its shape easier simply because of the extra stranding on the inside.

With a psu like that - which has a bunch of different sizes of wire. I like to stick with one gauge and rewire the ones that are not the same. I do this as the different gauges (mostly the thin 24awg) really stand out when you goto sleeve them.


----------



## kpoeticg

I actually already have a bunch of the thin 16 from your shop. Also the 18 and 22 =P. The voltage regulation on the HCP-1300 is incredible I'm really not trying to degrade the unit, so I'm thinking I might just shorten the wire to a cpl inches and make an extension for the 24 Pin

I'm doing my build in a HAF XB so it's not a problem to hide the short wire in the bottom of the chassis.

I'm also thinking of putting a molex socket plate somewhere in the top that the mobo and graphics cards will plug into. Haven't decided for sure which way i'm gonna go yet. Still got a bunch of mods to do on my case so i got some time to think about =)


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I actually already have a bunch of the thin 16 from your shop. Also the 18 and 22 =P. The voltage regulation on the HCP-1300 is incredible I'm really not trying to degrade the unit, so I'm thinking I might just shorten the wire to a cpl inches and make an extension for the 24 Pin


Awesome, and that always looks better to clean it up. But using large diameter wires where there was smaller ones will not effect the performance of the psu at all. Granted you are soldering correctly when needed.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah Big Elf helped me come to the same conclusion last night. My soldering isn't great but i can def handle the method from your tutorial =)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> There is a definitely a difference in the wires ability to do its job. But a good 18awg will be able to perform just fine for about 90 percent of PSU Units.


That's what i was referring to about degrading the unit. I've already made the investment in a bunch of the thin 16 you have at your shop so might as well use it =)


----------



## SDMODNoob

Finally got my sleeving project and system done... Here are some shots:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












I have got to say, it was one heck of a learning experience doing this for the first time. I still couldn't get the molex and sata to look good, but I will look into doing the single sata connections like Lutro0 suggested uptop. Couldn't have done this project without the help of Lutro0 and Nils, big thanks for all the tutorials and supplies.


----------



## kpoeticg

I still wouldn't know how to crimp a pin onto a wire if wasn't for Lutro's vidz, so i know how u feel =)


----------



## lowfat

A few pics of the sleeving from my two current builds.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4171-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4111-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4253-1.jpg.html


----------



## kpoeticg

Looks great, love the acrylic and polished block. 2 questions, are those clips or slices in the top left of the first pic, and what's that in the bottom right? A BigNG?


----------



## lowfat

The Mod/Smart Kobra cable clips? I use them to comb out the wire as I lay it in place under the retention bars.


----------



## kpoeticg

Nice. I was just curious. I'm thinking of grabbing a few of those too


----------



## lowfat

They can be nice to have if you use them like I do. They do break very easily unfortunately. Especially the 4-wire ones.

I wish more people were interested in the retention bars







. They take like 5 minutes each to make and they are without a doubt the best thing for cable management I've used.


----------



## kpoeticg

I'll be using the clips out of sight just to help my cables keep their shape. What retention bars are u referring to? With zip ties?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Finally got my sleeving project and system done... Here are some shots:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have got to say, it was one heck of a learning experience doing this for the first time. I still couldn't get the molex and sata to look good, but I will look into doing the single sata connections like Lutro0 suggested uptop. Couldn't have done this project without the help of Lutro0 and Nils, big thanks for all the tutorials and supplies.


Very Nice, that green is really nice.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> A few pics of the sleeving from my two current builds.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4171-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4111-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4253-1.jpg.html


Wow, I don't know how you manged to keep, the 24pin nicely combed, but looks amazing.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Wow, I don't know how you manged to keep, the 24pin nicely combed, but looks amazing.


Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> What retention bars are u referring to? With zip ties?


The bars on the backside of the motherboard holding the cables in place. They take 5 minutes to make. They are what make the cables on the front side hold their position.

The device on the back is actually a MiniNG, not a BigNG.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The bars on the backside of the motherboard holding the cables in place. They take 5 minutes to make. They are what make the cables on the front side hold their position.
> 
> The device on the back is actually a MiniNG, not a BigNG.


Ahhh, I see what you're talking about now. I don't think I've seen that b4. What did u use for em?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Ahhh, I see what you're talking about now. I don't think I've seen that b4. What did u use for em?


A couple of motherboard stand offs and a piece of scrape aluminum from an old case.


----------



## kpoeticg

Nice. I'm gonna keep that in mind. Thanx for the idea =)


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Got my wires sleeved, but now I need to properly route them. Any ideas or suggestions?


----------



## M00NIE

Might be a silly question but i have to ask, before i started melting to keep it attached i was using the metal clips on the pins to hold down my sleeving. would the current flowing through melt the sleeve. its MDPC-X sleeve, feels more like plastic than cloth. Do i need to redo the ones I've done so far? not using heat shrink.


----------



## Big Elf

No, you'll be fine, it takes a fair amount of heat to melt the sleeve and under normal circumstances, providing the wire is of the correct specification, there shouldn't be that much heat in the wire anyway. The only concern I would have would be the additional stress the wings of the pin are under having to clamp down on such a large diameter.


----------



## M00NIE

Thanks, melting the ends and rolling to create a nice seal, going a lot easier.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> A few pics of the sleeving from my two current builds.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4171-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4111-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4253-1.jpg.html


That's cable management at its finest! You've got great skill!


----------



## Pimphare

Here's what I've started with so far. My cell phone doesn't take quality pictures. I'll post more later.


----------



## chefproject

Hi guys

just finished my new pci-e cables. Lutroo should recognize the color







.....thx to you nice stuff this coreless paracordsleeving

And the shrinkless method just looks so clean













Greetings and regards chefproject


----------



## roflcopter159

Has anyone ever tried sleeving the Cooler Master V1000 power supply? (Link) I am considering purchasing it as an upgrade from my current power supply because of its price today, but I don't want to buy it if it will be an absolute pain to sleeve (more so than the average power supply that is). So how difficult will it be to sleeve? Someone with the V1000 know how many double wires there are, and whether or not there are in-line capacitors?


----------



## Big Elf

It's manufactured by SeaSonic and looking at images of the back of the PSU has an 8 pin and 10 pin connector for the 24 pin so that means a few double wires and 6 pin PCI-E connectors which means dual wires if using 8 pin PCI-E cables.

*Top quality PSU* according to Jonnyguru

SeaSonic don't need to bodge their PSUs to get top quality results so there'll be no capacitors in the cables.


----------



## roflcopter159

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> It's manufactured by SeaSonic and looking at images of the back of the PSU has an 8 pin and 10 pin connector for the 24 pin so that means a few double wires and 6 pin PCI-E connectors which means dual wires if using 8 pin PCI-E cables.
> 
> *Top quality PSU* according to Jonnyguru
> 
> SeaSonic don't need to bodge their PSUs to get top quality results so there'll be no capacitors in the cables.


Alright, thanks. I think I will pull the trigger then. It doesn't sound too bad to work with. Question for you: when I solder the double wires together, will I have to recrimp the ends?


----------



## kpoeticg

Well, you're not just soldering the 2 wires together. You're splicing 2 wires into 1. So at least the end going into your 24 pin will need to be crimped onto the single wire.


----------



## roflcopter159

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well, you're not just soldering the 2 wires together. You're splicing 2 wires into 1. So at least the end going into your 24 pin will need to be crimped onto the single wire.


Ok, I'll have to look into getting crimping materials then.


----------



## kpoeticg

Crimping is absolutely necessary for sleeving. =)

Since you're in the U.S like me, I highly recommend getting Lutro's crimper from his shop Lutro0-customs.com. You can get most of the other stuff u need there too.


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> It's manufactured by SeaSonic and looking at images of the back of the PSU has an 8 pin and 10 pin connector for the 24 pin so that means a few double wires and 6 pin PCI-E connectors which means dual wires if using 8 pin PCI-E cables.
> 
> *Top quality PSU* according to Jonnyguru
> 
> SeaSonic don't need to bodge their PSUs to get top quality results so there'll be no capacitors in the cables.


I could have sworn I've seen caps at the end of Seasonic PCIe cables....?????


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> It's manufactured by SeaSonic and looking at images of the back of the PSU has an 8 pin and 10 pin connector for the 24 pin so that means a few double wires and 6 pin PCI-E connectors which means dual wires if using 8 pin PCI-E cables.
> 
> *Top quality PSU* according to Jonnyguru
> 
> SeaSonic don't need to bodge their PSUs to get top quality results so there'll be no capacitors in the cables.
> 
> 
> 
> I could have sworn I've seen caps at the end of Seasonic PCIe cables....?????
Click to expand...

You're thinking of Silverstone.


----------



## nyk20z3

After some good advice from a fellow member - adi518 i placed an order with Lutro Customs -

Not sure if I will be doing the Sleeving myself or paying some 1 to do it but here is the proposed lay out.

Yellow/Black to the MSI Lighting 780

Black/Blue/Gray for the MOBO 24 pin/CPU 8 pin


----------



## nleksan

The grey sleeving is beautiful!

I'm strongly considering going with that and white for custom cables for my HALE90, which will be done with Lutro0's wire and MOLEX pins as well...

Would love to hear your opinion on the sleeving after you've spent some quality time with it!


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm trying to decide between Red/Grey/Black, Red/Grey/White, & Red/White/Black sleeving for my RIVE BE build. I already ordered all the Coreless Paracord i need including Grey & Silver. It's so hard to decide.


----------



## WiSK

Depends how grey your grey is. If red is the main theme then light grey works better with white, dark grey better with black. Too much contrast draws the eye away from the rest of the components and the sleeve becomes predominant. It needs to be fairly subtle.


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm using Lutro's Coreless Paracord. I had my color scheme picked out b4 the RIVE BE was announced, I'm having trouble shifting it. Red was gonna be the main color b4, now i'm thinking maybe white or gray. I ordered a bit of the Telios too just to see how it was and I'll use that for my next build. I ordered wayyyy too much of the Paracord not to use it in this build (like 200ft black, 200ft red, 100 white, 50 grey, 50 silver i think). This is my first sleeving job so i got extra =P. When i ordered it I was gonna paint my XB Red with Black and White to go with RIVE's colors. Now I'm thinking White with Red and either Black or Gray. I suck at picking color schemes =(


----------



## WiSK

If you've got lots extra, snip 24+ pieces off in different colours. Like 2 inch pieces. Stick 24 of these mini sleeves into an ATX connector and look at it in daylight. Change colours until you're happy.


----------



## kpoeticg

Wow, that's and excellent (and pretty obvious







) suggestion.
+1

I feel real stupid right now that in the past week or so since i made my pinout that thought didn't occur to me =X

Thanx for the tip about the contrast too


----------



## WiSK

Glad to help


----------



## TANN3R

Is there a thread that shows the technique of how to use thread to hold all your sleeved wires together? I need a way to hold my 24pin cable neatly together. Thanks


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TANN3R*
> 
> Is there a thread that shows the technique of how to use thread to hold all your sleeved wires together? I need a way to hold my 24pin cable neatly together. Thanks


You mean something like this?

For possible results of this technique, you can check out my build log.


----------



## M00NIE

Sleeving 750d font panel connectors now, having trouble with the USB 3 connector, no way you can get normal sleeve over the USB plugs. I don't think you can remove the housing on the connector since its soldered to a wire for earth?

Any tips would be welcome, or even if someone knows if i can buy sleeved USB3 cables that i could fit into this front panel would be awesome.

progress so far:


----------



## WiSK

Pretty much the only way to get regular sleeve on USB3 is to cut off the connector. Only place I know you can get USB3 pins and connector is from Moddiy. But it's got fiddly tiny pins. I bought some once but haven't gotten around to trying to sleeve it yet.


----------



## Big Elf

You're fortunate living in the UK in that *Proto-Pic* stock the connector (2 x 10) and the male and female pins at extremely sensible prices, including delivery. Note that although you can crimp the pins using the MDPC-X, Lutro0 or SN28 (best of them for these small crimps) tools they then won't fit in the connectors.

I use the *Molex 63811-1000 manual crimp tool* to do them but it's not worth the expense to buy it just for that so use needle nosed pliers and keep the crimp as tiny as possible.


----------



## kpoeticg

Edit: had to refresh my screen to see Big Elf already answered


----------



## M00NIE

Thanks, solid advise. Have no experience cutting the connectors and crimping so will go watch some YouTube vids ect to see how i feel about it. First time sleeving to. Gonna drive me nuts being the only cable not sleeved in my system.


----------



## kpoeticg

THESE are decent crimpers i found for micro pins on amazon that are a decent price. The largest slot on them is just big enough for fan pins on 22AWG to give u some scale. I barely use em since i got the Lutro Crimper, but they give a good crimp.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> THESE are decent crimpers i found for micro pins on amazon that are a decent price. The largest slot on them is just big enough for fan pins on 22AWG to give u some scale. I barely use em since i got the Lutro Crimper, but they give a good crimp.


Yeah, I use the 1.4mm crimp on the Molex tool for USB pins. However none of the crimps will work with VGA fan pins without breaking them with the Molex tool. Have you tried that tool with VGA pins?


----------



## kpoeticg

Not yet, I plan on it though. The smallest slot is 1mm the largest is 1.9. I use it for the pins/wires that would get crushed with a Ratcheting crimper.

I have some VGA fan pins and some of Lutro's 22AWG. I'll check right now


----------



## WiSK

Guys, I have an embarrassing situation. Yesterday I was fixing some toy of my daughter and superglued it to my thumb. I managed with a Stanley knife to cut the toy off my thumb, but now a layer of skin is gone









So then today I tried sleeving with an Elastoplast on my thumb, but I can't stretch it properly like that. Not enough grip and, well it's sore.

Any tips for something I can hold sleeving stretched that won't damage the sleeve?


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Guys, I have an embarrassing situation. Yesterday I was fixing some toy of my daughter and superglued it to my thumb. I managed with a Stanley knife to cut the toy off my thumb, but now a layer of skin is gone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So then today I tried sleeving with an Elastoplast on my thumb, but I can't stretch it properly like that. Not enough grip and, well it's sore.
> 
> Any tips for something I can hold sleeving stretched that won't damage the sleeve?


Superglue, it'll still hurt though. Alternatively a leather glove.

I always look on little accidents as an excuse to have a break from sleeving.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Not yet, I plan on it though. The smallest slot is 1mm the largest is 1.9. I use it for the pins/wires that would get crushed with a Ratcheting crimper.
> 
> I have some VGA fan pins and some of Lutro's 22AWG. I'll check right now


It gave a decent crimp in the 1.4mm. It gave a perfect crimp in the 1.6 when i did the outside wings first and the inside wings 2nd. I tried taking a bunch of pics but can't get my phone to focus on the pin =\
It doesn't ratchet so no crushing =)

Wisk, I feel for ya brotha. I constantly get super glue on my fingers. Wish i had some help for your issue.


----------



## longroadtrip

Wisk..try one of these...


----------



## kpoeticg

Actually on the 22AWG, it gives a better crimp with the outside wings on 1.6 and inside on 1.4. I wish i had some smaller guage to try it with for ya.



That's the best pic i could get. That's the 3rd one i said with the outside wings in 1.6 and inside wings in 1.4. And yes I noticed i don't have the wire all the way up, but I only bought a few VGA pins =\ The tool itself does well though.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Superglue, it'll still hurt though. Alternatively a leather glove.


Lol I did think of putting some more over it, but thought best not tempt fate.









Will try driving gloves, good idea








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Wisk, I feel for ya brotha. I constantly get super glue on my fingers. Wish i had some help for your issue.


Haha it wasn't the glue that was so bad, it was the toy








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Wisk..try one of these...


That would be good too, but our house is unfortunately not well stocked with sewing equipment. Now I see the error of our ways...


----------



## kpoeticg

Ok, found some 26AWG that i forgot i had so had to sacrifice another pin to the cause =)

I crimped outside wings first, inside wings second. Both 1.4mm. Sorry again about the pic quality. It's even harder to get my phone to focus when i need to keep the wire from rolling over with 1 hand =P



That was first attempt, which is good for me (I'm not the greatest crimper)

Now i'm running extremely late though so Gotta GO!!

Hope this helps


----------



## WiSK

Looks exactly right


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Ok, found some 26AWG that i forgot i had so had to sacrifice another pin to the cause =)
> 
> I crimped outside wings first, inside wings second. Both 1.4mm. Sorry again about the pic quality. It's even harder to get my phone to focus when i need to keep the wire from rolling over with 1 hand =P
> 
> 
> 
> That was first attempt, which is good for me (I'm not the greatest crimper)
> 
> Now i'm running extremely late though so Gotta GO!!
> 
> Hope this helps


Thanks for that. It's a good crimp.


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## jleslie246

Found a great place to buy sleeving cheap.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-cable-sleeving/=owtj07


----------



## kpoeticg

McMaster has alot of good supplies, but I'd need to see some reviews on that sleeving. I'm expecting it to look like the stuff that came stock on my Antec HCP-1300 24 Pin Cable.

If you grab some please make sure you post a few pics of it so people can see the weave density


----------



## nleksan

Next time, try acetone to dissolve the glue from your finger


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Next time, try acetone to dissolve the glue from your finger


Aah! Now why didn't I think of that. Thanks


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> Next time, try acetone to dissolve the glue from your finger


Rubbing the glued bit against a frozen freezer surface works wonders as well. In fact, if you ever get in trouble with polyurethane, freezer rub is _the_ way to go.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TANN3R*
> 
> Is there a thread that shows the technique of how to use thread to hold all your sleeved wires together? I need a way to hold my 24pin cable neatly together. Thanks


Look at either of my build logs. I use retention bars on the backside of the motherboard. That way you don't see any visible clips or thread on the front side.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Found a great place to buy sleeving cheap.
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-cable-sleeving/=owtj07


Really doesn't look like here is any good PET sleeving. All looks to be too large.


----------



## M00NIE

Decided not to bother sleeving the USB3 cable, didnt realise it was side mounted so it dont look half bad. just waiting on my h320&780 lightning now.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M00NIE*
> 
> Decided not to bother sleeving the USB3 cable, didnt realise it was side mounted so it dont look half bad. just waiting on my h320&780 lightning now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice, I like it!


----------



## Big Elf

Although this is heresy







I prefer that type unsleeved. I've started using the black round SATA data cables unsleeved as I think they look far better 'au naturel'.

If you could reduce the tension on the rubber case grommet that it and the 24 pin goes through it would look better.


----------



## NewHighScore

I love that board so much! So sexy.

Just finished doing my gpu's last night. Just a couple tweaks left and I'm completely done with this rig.


----------



## lowfat

There will never be a single unsleeved cable in my builds. If I can't sleeve it for some reason I remove the cable. I won't be using front panel USB3.0 in my systems because of it.


----------



## M00NIE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I love that board so much! So sexy.
> 
> Just finished doing my gpu's last night. Just a couple tweaks left and I'm completely done with this rig.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


wow that looks amazing, inspired me to try improve mine some more. Although i do like to blame my iphone camera









and yea ill try improve the 24pin, it does look to restricted.


----------



## WiSK

I'm actually kinda with BigElf on this one. I've got short round Sata cables in one of my builds, and just plain black flat Sata in another. For me it's about the heatshrink never looking quite right on the connector.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> I love that board so much! So sexy.
> 
> Just finished doing my gpu's last night. Just a couple tweaks left and I'm completely done with this rig.


Thats very close to my mod I am doing


----------



## zmegati

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*


How on earth you get this form ... looks perfect!









To me it turns out like this:


----------



## M00NIE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I'm actually kinda with BigElf on this one. I've got short round Sata cables in one of my builds, and just plain black flat Sata in another. For me it's about the heatshrink never looking quite right on the connector.


The silverstone cables have the sleeve going into the connector, the weave is very loose but they look good as long as you arnt taking close ups. Using them myself.


http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=312&area=en


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> How on earth you get this form ... looks perfect!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To me it turns out like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It looks like you're using paracord, which doesn't keep its shape as well as PET sleeving IME.
I love working with paracord, but I have come to rely on lacing my wire bundles to make them
keep their shape. If you have PET sleeving you can train them quite well without lacing though.

Also, it helps if you make the inner wires a bit shorter than the outer ones to get the perfect
loop, especially when you have multiple bends in a cable run and some wires end up having
to go a significantly longer way than others.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M00NIE*
> 
> The silverstone cables have the sleeve going into the connector, the weave is very loose but they look good as long as you arnt taking close ups. Using them myself.


I wonder how easy it would be to make a kind of mould to do this. And what kind of plastic would be needed.


----------



## M00NIE

@alpenwasser

I was just thinking im gonna have to find that video i watched yesterday to fix my 24pin, completely forgot how i come across it, thanks!


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I wonder how easy it would be to make a kind of mould to do this. And what kind of plastic would be needed.


Now there's an idea








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M00NIE*
> 
> @alpenwasser
> 
> I was just thinking im gonna have to find that video i watched yesterday to fix my 24pin, completely forgot how i come across it, thanks!


It pleases me to serve (no wait, that sounds a bit wrong







).


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> How on earth you get this form ... looks perfect!


Because LutroO is THE GRANDMASTER of sleeving. Perfection every time.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that an extension? Or is it for a specific psu?


----------



## nyk20z3

Looks like an Exhension,I have not seen Lutro post pics of a PSU fully sleeved.

I need a full lenght 24 pin,8 pin PCI-E,8 pin CPU done.

I don't have the time or patience at the moment to do it myself!


----------



## lowfat

Sleeving perfectly takes a lot of time.if you pay someone, expect it to be a lot of money.


----------



## nyk20z3

Money is not an issue.

I've seen full PSU Sleeving going for $300 etc so how much can 3 sets of cables cost lol


----------



## kpoeticg

Is there any actual benefit to using the Gold-Plated pins for any crimps?


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Is there any actual benefit to using the Gold-Plated pins for any crimps?


If you're running the system in a +90% humidity environment, like on a boat or outside along the shore they can help prevent corrosion, but in most house holds and businesses the gold plate just reduces the conductivity of the crimp while making it look fancy.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Is there any actual benefit to using the Gold-Plated pins for any crimps?


Not really, it's to provide extra protection against corrosion.


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx. Appreciate the help like usual =)


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> If you're running the system in a +90% humidity environment, like on a boat or outside along the shore they can help prevent corrosion, but in most house holds and businesses the gold plate just reduces the conductivity of the crimp while making it look fancy.


Reduces conductivity? I thought gold was used because of high conductivity.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Looks like an Exhension,I have not seen Lutro post pics of a PSU fully sleeved.
> 
> Any 1 here sleeve like a pro ?
> 
> I need a full lenght 24 pin,8 pin PCI-E,8 pin CPU done.
> 
> I don't have the time or patience at the moment to do it myself!


Most of my OEM sleeving jobs end up under NDA because they are for Major Corporations or for projects for the tops modders in the us and world.

However we do plenty of them. Feel free to pm me.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Reduces conductivity? I thought gold was used because of high conductivity.


According to Wikipedia, gold has an electrical resistivity of 22.14 nΩ·m (at 20 °C), whereas Copper
has an electrical resistivity of 16.78 nΩ·m (again at 20 °C), so copper is a better electrical conductor.

However, Gold has the advantage that it does not oxidize over time, whereas copper does. And the
layer of oxide on top of the copper has a significantly reduced conductivity compared to the pure
copper, therefore reducing the conductivity of the connection. While gold's conductivity is a bit worse
than that of copper, it is significantly better than that of the oxide layer, and it will stay that way almost
forever under halfway normal circumstances. At least that's my understanding of things, I'm mostly
familiar with gold connectors from my dad's audio equipment growing up.

As a side note: Gold is actually a very good conductor as you say, just not as good as copper (or silver,
which is slightly better still).


----------



## Big Elf

Bear in mind that most terminals are tin plated rather than bare brass.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Bear in mind that most terminals are tin plated rather than bare brass.


True, definitely a relevant consideration.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Rough plan for my 24 pin



Hopefully it works with the theme Im going











Um dont mind the messy cables


----------



## Hanoverfist

http://s1325.photobucket.com/user/markfry21/media/Electric Orange/013_zps6dd26619.jpg.html

http://s1325.photobucket.com/user/markfry21/media/Electric Orange/015_zps0a3c3336.jpg.html


----------



## kpoeticg

Love the sleeving job. But not as much as your nick









"And next the defense would like to call to the stand, Hanoverfist. Pagiiiiiiiiiiing.....Hanoverfisttttttt"

Seriously though, that black and orange looks amazing. Makes me wanna be an ATX cable for Halloween =)


----------



## Hanoverfist

One of my all time Favorite Movies...


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

One side of my 24 pin done











Not as pretty or perfect as everyone elses but







it works for me

Sorry for the craptasitc pic

Edit, pic is of the PSU side of the cable thats why theres the orange cable


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> THESE are decent crimpers i found for micro pins on amazon that are a decent price. The largest slot on them is just big enough for fan pins on 22AWG to give u some scale. I barely use em since i got the Lutro Crimper, but they give a good crimp.




I've just bought one from Japan and tested it on USB/Motherboard Male and Female pins, Male and Female Fan pins and VGA fan pins. In every case it produces an equivalent or better crimp than the Molex 63811-1000 hand crimp tool. A female fan pin is about the biggest pin you'd want to crimp.


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## nyk20z3

Lutro Customs Teleios order arrived today -

The Yellow is not a perfect match to the 780 Lighting buts it's close enough.




Having a fellow OCN member do all the custom Sleeving for me.


----------



## kpoeticg

I just noticed THESE on DazMode. They seem to be the same exact brand/model as the Micro Crimpers i posted except they go from 1.6mm - 2.5mm instead of 1 - 1.9mm. I doubt I'll be ordering them cuz Lutro's Crimper works great for all the larger pins for me personally. Figured I'd share though =)


----------



## chase11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I just noticed THESE on DazMode. They seem to be the same exact brand/model as the Micro Crimpers i posted except they go from 1.6mm - 2.5mm instead of 1 - 1.9mm. I doubt I'll be ordering them cuz Lutro's Crimper works great for all the larger pins for me personally. Figured I'd share though =)


Be careful with that. Lutro0 custom mills his crimpers so they dont crush the pins when you crimp. This crimper you never know. It might work excellent but it might also crush the pins. Nice find if it works well!


----------



## kpoeticg

The Smaller version of that Crimper works real good with Micro Pins, like VGA Fan and Dupont Connectors. I own a Lutro Crimper and I love it LOL. Not recommending anything to any1. Just sharing info


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So I pulled my pump apart to sleeve it earlier



Cables sleeved and ghetto stitched, tried my own way of stitching



The finished product didnt turn out to bad, was a little worried getting the para so close to everything inside on the PCB in case it caught on fire











Do you think I voided my warranty?


----------



## kpoeticg

Nice job on the stitching man








I still need to watch a tutorial or 2 about how to do that. If there's a Tamper Proof Seal anywhere, then you voided your warranty. I don't own a D5 so I don't know if there is one or not.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Nice job on the stitching man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to watch a tutorial or 2 about how to do that. If there's a Tamper Proof Seal anywhere, then you voided your warranty. I don't own a D5 so I don't know if there is one or not.


Lol thanks, my method seemed to work good it holds it nice and tight but my knots suck







. no taper proof seal but I did pull the whole back off and make the hole for the wires 2x bigger


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Lol thanks, my method seemed to work good it holds it nice and tight but my knots suck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . no taper proof seal but I did pull the whole back off and make the hole for the wires 2x bigger


For stitching two wires (or just a few in general) together I can recommend the
common whipping knot, I've used it for that and it works very well. Info about it
in this post. But nice job!


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> For stitching two wires (or just a few in general) together I can recommend the
> common whipping knot, I've used it for that and it works very well. Info about it
> in this post. But nice job!


I seen that post a while ago, gonna try it on my 24 pin once Im doing sleeving it, completely forgot about it for this









Thanks, took me over an hour to stitch


----------



## alpenwasser

Happy to help.







And yes, stitching wires takes for-bloody-ever!


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Lutro Customs Teleios order arrived today -
> 
> The Yellow is not a perfect match to the 780 Lighting buts it's close enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having a fellow OCN member do all the custom Sleeving for me.


Should have sent me a PM, I mean, what are friends for?


----------



## nyk20z3

Little confused here!

I am thinking of Tackling this Sleeving job myself so I've been putting together a list of tools I would need off of Lutros site.I am currently using Corsair Individually Sleeved Cables so I plan on Sleeving the stock PSU cables it came with.This may sound stupid but if I am not using custom wire lengths then what use would his crimper be to me ?.From what I can see all I have to do is pop the pins out of both ends,sleeve the wire over and then melt it to the pin on both ends ?

Maybe it's more involved and I am sadly mistaken!


----------



## Liradon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Little confused here!
> 
> I am thinking of Tackling this Sleeving job myself so I've been putting together a list of tools I would need off of Lutros site.I am currently using Corsair Individually Sleeved Cables so I plan on Sleeving the stock PSU cables it came with.This may sound stupid but if I am not using custom wire lengths then what use would his crimper be to me ?.From what I can see all I have to do is pop the pins out of both ends,sleeve the wire over and then melt it to the pin on both ends ?
> 
> Maybe it's more involved and I am sadly mistaken!


Nop, that's basically it. If you are not making your own wires, you don't need a crimper. You only need tools to extract pins from connectors. (Which you can even make for yourself. Just look around and use household materials!







)


----------



## nyk20z3

That's good 2 know so i will only order the Flush Cutter,Original Molex Extractor,and the 4 Pin Aux Extractor then.


----------



## Zooty Cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Little confused here!
> 
> I am thinking of Tackling this Sleeving job myself so I've been putting together a list of tools I would need off of Lutros site.I am currently using Corsair Individually Sleeved Cables so I plan on Sleeving the stock PSU cables it came with.This may sound stupid but if I am not using custom wire lengths then what use would his crimper be to me ?.From what I can see all I have to do is pop the pins out of both ends,sleeve the wire over and then melt it to the pin on both ends ?
> 
> Maybe it's more involved and I am sadly mistaken!


You should be fine but be careful with the double wires on the Corsair power supplies. Twice while working on one I had the pin come off the double wires and get stuck in the connector.


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zooty Cat*
> 
> You should be fine but be careful with the double wires on the Corsair power supplies. Twice while working on one I had the pin come off the double wires and get stuck in the connector.


When i remove the pins i believe the clamps on each side depress in ?

So when reinstalling the pins i just push the sides out a little so they catch again or they dont actually get pushed in all the while depressing ?

Thanks for the heads after checking there are 2 spots on the 24 pin where i see double wires.


----------



## Liradon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> When i remove the pins i believe the clamps on each side depress in ?
> 
> So when reinstalling the pins i just push the sides out a little so they catch again or they dont actually get pushed in all the while depressing ?
> 
> Thanks for the heads after checking there are 2 spots on the 24 pin where i see double wires.


Sometimes the pins get pushed in all the way, sometimes they don't. When you see they did, just pull them back a little with a needle or something







.


----------



## kpoeticg

Pretty much anytime I have a pin remover in my hand, I have an exacto knife right next to me. I used to just use it on the ones that get pushed too far in. Now, everytime i remove a pin, i stick my exacto knife and bend the tab back out. It always gets pushed in at least a little bit to remove it from the housing.


----------



## Liradon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Pretty much anytime I have a pin remover in my hand, I have an exacto knife right next to me. I used to just use it on the ones that get pushed too far in. Now, everytime i remove a pin, i stick my exacto knife and bend the tab back out. It always gets pushed in at least a little bit to remove it from the housing.


I used to do that, but now I don't. The more you move it outwards, the harder it gets to remove it a second time if you ever have to. If it's stuck in the connector, it's good enough for me







.


----------



## kpoeticg

Hrmmmm. That's not my experience. I usually just bend it out a little bit. Never causes a problem when i need to remove it again. When i don't use my exacto knife to pop the tabs back out, sometimes i don't even need a pin remover the 2nd/3rd/4th/5th/6th time


----------



## Liradon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Hrmmmm. That's not my experience. I usually just bend it out a little bit. Never causes a problem when i need to remove it again. When i don't use my exacto knife to pop the tabs back out, sometimes i don't even need a pin remover the 2nd/3rd/4th/5th/6th time


When you have alot of experience with sleeving, you kind of see when the pins are pushed out enough and when not


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah I'm def still a n00b sleever LOL
I'm still working out the color scheme for my first sleeving job, so i don't even know if that qualifies me as n00b yet









Right now I just have a bunch of pieces of Paracord sticking out of my 24 Pin Molex playing "Musical Pins"




Thanx again for that idea WiSK









Kinda wish i didn't order so much damn heatshrink. It doesn't look like I'm even gonna need it with this Coreless Paracord. It melts pretty easily


----------



## Hanoverfist

Feeling some Halloween Spirit









http://s1325.photobucket.com/user/markfry21/media/Electric Orange/007-3_zps07f25a8b.jpg.html


----------



## kpoeticg

That Orange and Black is too damn beautiful.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Thanks Kpoeticg







.. Is really good match i think too


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah it matches your build perfect. Even by itself tho, the orange and black sleeving has such amazing contrast. It's a simple color scheme but it has a great "Pop" to it.
I'd love to see an OC Formula in that rig though.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Feeling some Halloween Spirit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1325.photobucket.com/user/markfry21/media/Electric Orange/007-3_zps07f25a8b.jpg.html


Love the color combo with the drive.


----------



## Hanoverfist

..


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Hey anyone with a Silverstone Strider Plus PSU, do you have any problems getting the PCI cables out? I end up having to fight with a single cable for almost an 15 - 30 mins sometimes an hour







, shredding my fingers up before I get the stupid thing it out







but any other cable be it molex, atx or fan I can get out in under a minute


----------



## M00NIE

I did fight with mine a fair bit, push the wire in while pushing a lot with ur tool. that said it still required a bit of force for me.


----------



## KrazyKap

Yeah, they do seem to be pretty tightly locked in, just have to push the wire in as said, because that will cause the pins to be pushed in more easily. I managed to do two 6+2pin connectors as well as the rest of the PSU with just a custom tool, flattened hair pin.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M00NIE*
> 
> I did fight with mine a fair bit, push the wire in while pushing a lot with ur tool. that said it still required a bit of force for me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KrazyKap*
> 
> Yeah, they do seem to be pretty tightly locked in, just have to push the wire in as said, because that will cause the pins to be pushed in more easily. I managed to do two 6+2pin connectors as well as the rest of the PSU with just a custom tool, flattened hair pin.


Glad Im not the only one







. I have been pushing the wire in then pushing the tool in more, doesnt seem to do much tho







might try a trusty staple again









It feels like the wires are thicker to, like there 16 AWG instead of the standard 18 AWG, maybe thats just my imagination tho


----------



## Arm3nian

Are these sleeves cloth like or plasticy? Thanks


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Glad Im not the only one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have been pushing the wire in then pushing the tool in more, doesnt seem to do much tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> might try a trusty staple again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It feels like the wires are thicker to, like there 16 AWG instead of the standard 18 AWG, maybe thats just my imagination tho


I've never messed with a SilverStone PSU, but ATX pins getting stuck is pretty common. You're actually supposed to straighten the wire so it and the pin are lined up with the hole perfectly. Then kinda pull up and back while pushing your tool in. The ATX Pin Remover you're using will make a big difference.

I use this for all my ATX Pins


And one of these for all my 4-Pin Molex's


I plan on buying one of the Molex Brand ATX Pin Removers from Lutro's site when he gets his Red Telios in stock just because i feel like this one is gonna break eventually. But it does a GREAT job with ATX Pins. You really gotta pay attention to make sure the Tool's 2 Fingers are pressing the tabs exactly the right way, especially if the wings are stuck into the housing. IMO any other Pin Remover is a complete ripoff and will do nothing but take up space in your pile of unused stuff. I bought the Lamptron Pin Removal Kit, and there's not a single purpose for me to own it. NONE of the tips can remove the pins they're supposed to. For me anyway..... Except maybe the 4 Pronged Tip for female fan pins. But you can do that just as easily with a paperclip.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Are these sleeves cloth like or plasticy? Thanks


Paracord is "Cloth-Like". It's very similar to like shoelace material. The Coreless Paracord Lutro sells at Lutro0-Customs is suprisingly great quality and easy to work with.
PET sleeving, which is pretty much anything except for Paracord is a Plastic Material.
Like that Orange & Black sleeving job that Hanoverfist just posted a little while ago. That's PET sleeving. Almost definitely from MDPC. MDPC has pretty much been the number one top quality PET sleeving for a longgg time. Lutro's Telios is pretty ferocious though. I can't wait til he releases the rest of the product line. MDPC is in Germany, so it can be a PITA for U.S customers to place orders and wait for shipping. I'd recommend any1 from the U.S to just get the Telios. It really is amazing quality, and it's got a great flexibility to it. If you live in Europe though, might as well just order from MDPC-X


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Paracord is "Cloth-Like". It's very similar to like shoelace material. The Coreless Paracord Lutro sells at Lutro0-Customs is suprisingly great quality and easy to work with.
> PET sleeving, which is pretty much anything except for Paracord is a Plastic Material.
> Like that Orange & Black sleeving job that Hanoverfist just posted a little while ago. That's PET sleeving. Almost definitely from MDPC. MDPC has pretty much been the number one top quality PET sleeving for a longgg time. Lutro's Telios is pretty ferocious though. I can't wait til he releases the rest of the product line. MDPC is in Germany, so it can be a PITA for U.S customers to place orders and wait for shipping. I'd recommend any1 from the U.S to just get the Telios. It really is amazing quality, and it's got a great flexibility to it. If you live in Europe though, might as well just order from MDPC-X


From the pictures I couldn't really tell if the MDPC-X were plastic or not, I don't like the plastic. The cloth feels and looks much better.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I've never messed with a SilverStone PSU, but ATX pins getting stuck is pretty common. You're actually supposed to straighten the wire so it and the pin are lined up with the hole perfectly. Then kinda pull up and back while pushing your tool in. The ATX Pin Remover you're using will make a big difference.
> 
> I use this for all my ATX Pins
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one of these for all my 4-Pin Molex's
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan on buying one of the Molex Brand ATX Pin Removers from Lutro's site when he gets his Red Telios in stock just because i feel like this one is gonna break eventually. But it does a GREAT job with ATX Pins. You really gotta pay attention to make sure the Tool's 2 Fingers are pressing the tabs exactly the right way, especially if the wings are stuck into the housing. IMO any other Pin Remover is a complete ripoff and will do nothing but take up space in your pile of unused stuff. I bought the Lamptron Pin Removal Kit, and there's not a single purpose for me to own it. NONE of the tips can remove the pins they're supposed to. For me anyway..... Except maybe the 4 Pronged Tip for female fan pins. But you can do that just as easily with a paperclip.


Yeah I bought the ATX pin remover thing from Lutro0s site last month, kinda broke my other one on these PCI cables







. even stock the cables right where the pins crimped were bent so the first time I took them out it I just destroyed my fingers, took me probably 4 hours to do one cable







thought I straightened these ones I already modded but I guess not enough fixed it this time round tho







still got about 20 cuts, gashes etc tho









I gotta do another buy from Lutro0s shop, may or may not of forgotten to get some pins and a crimper














. I tried some other de pinning tools, they suck the only good ones are what Lutro and MDPC sell, all the other ones I tried either break or cant even reach the damn wings







and if your really stuck I found standard size paper stable does the job perfectly on ATX pins


----------



## KrazyKap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> From the pictures I couldn't really tell if the MDPC-X were plastic or not, I don't like the plastic. The cloth feels and looks much better.


That's what I think too, all just a matter of opinion


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> From the pictures I couldn't really tell if the MDPC-X were plastic or not, I don't like the plastic. The cloth feels and looks much better.


I'm starting to feel like a Lutro sales rep in this thread, but if you like Paracord Better, I HIGHLY recommend Lutro's Coreless Paracord, also getting his little Paracord threading tool so you don't snag the sleeving. It looks like it was purposely made for sleeving. Alot of Paracord looks like it was purposely made for shoelaces.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Yeah I bought the ATX pin remover thing from Lutro0s site last month, kinda broke my other one on these PCI cables
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . even stock the cables right where the pins crimped were bent so the first time I took them out it I just destroyed my fingers, took me probably 4 hours to do one cable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thought I straightened these ones I already modded but I guess not enough fixed it this time round tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> still got about 20 cuts, gashes etc tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gotta do another buy from Lutro0s shop, may or may not of forgotten to get some pins and a crimper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I tried some other de pinning tools, they suck the only good ones are what Lutro and MDPC sell, all the other ones I tried either break or cant even reach the damn wings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and if your really stuck I found standard size paper stable does the job perfectly on ATX pins


The Lutro and MDPC Crimpers most def give the best crimps (In my limited experience...). If you really wanted the best of the best, you should buy the MDPC Crimper and then buy the Die from Lutro, (Sorry Lutro







), then you'll have the best of both worlds. MDPC Crimper can't crimp Fat Molex Pins or 16AWG very well. Lutro milled his die, to make it work great with 16AWG and 4-Pin molex's. To make that modification, i think it sacrifices a tiny bit on the smaller guages. But if you were gonna pick one, I'd def choose the Lutro Crimper cuz Nilz tells you right on his website not to use his MDPC crimper on 4-Pin Molex's. The Custom Lutro Die fixes that.

That Dual Headed 4-Pin Molex Remover i linked to, I actually bought from Amazon before i even knew about Lutro's wisdom yet. Pretty much every watercooling/modding website has a version of that Fat Pin Remover. They're all the same. And are absolutely the easiest freaking thing for Molex's. Just push the tool in, right away you hear a click, and the wire comes out.

There's no way that ONE wire shoulda taken you 4 hours. The wire shoulda ripped out of the pin by then. I've had a cpl rip right out of the pin, it happens, that's why we buy Crimpers =) Lutro actually has a great Tutorial Vid about dealing with stuck ATX pins. I think you need to watch it. Lemme find it and i'll post it here if some1 else doesn't first

Also, buy MANY MANY extra pins when you buy a Crimper. It takes practice. I literally learned how to crimp watching Lutro's Crimping tutorial with a bag of pins and my Lutro Crimper. I'm still not great at it, but within like an hour I was capable of making my own cables.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm starting to feel like a Lutro sales rep in this thread, but if you like Paracord Better, I HIGHLY recommend Lutro's Coreless Paracord, also getting his little Paracord threading tool so you don't snag the sleeving. It looks like it was purposely made for sleeving. Alot of Paracord looks like it was purposely made for shoelaces.
> The Lutro and MDPC Crimpers most def give the best crimps (In my limited experience...). If you really wanted the best of the best, you should buy the MDPC Crimper and then buy the Die from Lutro, (Sorry Lutro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), then you'll have the best of both worlds. MDPC Crimper can't crimp Fat Molex Pins or 16AWG very well. Lutro milled his die, to make it work great with 16AWG and 4-Pin molex's. To make that modification, i think it sacrifices a tiny bit on the smaller guages. But if you were gonna pick one, I'd def choose the Lutro Crimper cuz Nilz tells you right on his website not to use his MDPC crimper on 4-Pin Molex's. The Custom Lutro Die fixes that.


Idk if I should go custom sleeving. PSUS like the AX1200i sell some that look quite good, even tho highly overpriced. EVGA nex1500 also includes some good looking ones, but I want all red. I just think this is going to be too much work on top of cutting/bending acrylic tubing.


----------



## jleslie246

o m g! My finger tips!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> There's no way that ONE wire shoulda taken you 4 hours. The wire shoulda ripped out of the pin by then. I've had a cpl rip right out of the pin, it happens, that's why we buy Crimpers =) Lutro actually has a great Tutorial Vid about dealing with stuck ATX pins. I think you need to watch it. Lemme find it and i'll post it here if some1 else doesn't first






 the link to the tutorial cued up to where he talks about removing pins and how to deal with stuck pins. You should definitely at least check out that section of the vid if not subscribe to his channel and watch em all like i have.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Idk if I should go custom sleeving. PSUS like the AX1200i sell some that look quite good, even tho highly overpriced. EVGA nex1500 also includes some good looking ones, but I want all red. I just think this is going to be too much work on top of cutting/bending acrylic tubing.


You can always buy extensions too. Buying extensions one time and buying everything you need to get setup for sleeving are probly close in how much you're gonna pay. But all the stuff you buy for sleeving and everything you learn will make it much cheaper in the future. It'll also come out looking much nicer if you do it yourself. The Bitfenix extensions are a good choice too if you'd just rather not deal with the hassle

HERE'S a link to a Corsair Modular Cable Kit in Red. The kit's $84.99 and you have to buy the 24 Pin ATX cable seperate. They give you the option to add it on at the bottom of the screen. The Red AX1200i 24 Pin is $20.99 but it's also out of stock. You could buy the kit and then buy the 24 Pin from somewhere else.

You could also buy THIS

Total Connectors:
1 x (14+10pin) to 20+4pin ATX adapter
2 x (8pin) to EPS/ATX12V 8pin(4+4) connector
6 x (8pin) to PCI-E 8pin(6+2) connector
Price: $119.99

They sleeve it with Kobra Maxcord Paracord. And you can customize by choosing up to 3 colors for the color scheme.

PerformancePCs has the Red Corsair Kit and the 24 Pin in stock
Kit $79.00
Red 24 Pin $19.99

If you want a more custom look, i'd probly go with the Kobra Maxcord Kit from FrozenCPU. It only comes with the necessary cables that'll be around your motherboard. But at least you can choose some color options so it doesn't look like the kit that Corsair sells


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The Lutro and MDPC Crimpers most def give the best crimps (In my limited experience...). If you really wanted the best of the best, you should buy the MDPC Crimper and then buy the Die from Lutro, (Sorry Lutro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), then you'll have the best of both worlds. MDPC Crimper can't crimp Fat Molex Pins or 16AWG very well. Lutro milled his die, to make it work great with 16AWG and 4-Pin molex's. To make that modification, i think it sacrifices a tiny bit on the smaller guages. But if you were gonna pick one, I'd def choose the Lutro Crimper cuz Nilz tells you right on his website not to use his MDPC crimper on 4-Pin Molex's. The Custom Lutro Die fixes that.
> 
> That Dual Headed 4-Pin Molex Remover i linked to, I actually bought from Amazon before i even knew about Lutro's wisdom yet. Pretty much every watercooling/modding website has a version of that Fat Pin Remover. They're all the same. And are absolutely the easiest freaking thing for Molex's. Just push the tool in, right away you hear a click, and the wire comes out.
> 
> There's no way that ONE wire shoulda taken you 4 hours. The wire shoulda ripped out of the pin by then. I've had a cpl rip right out of the pin, it happens, that's why we buy Crimpers =) Lutro actually has a great Tutorial Vid about dealing with stuck ATX pins. I think you need to watch it. Lemme find it and i'll post it here if some1 else doesn't first
> 
> Also, buy MANY MANY extra pins when you buy a Crimper. It takes practice. I literally learned how to crimp watching Lutro's Crimping tutorial with a bag of pins and my Lutro Crimper. I'm still not great at it, but within like an hour I was capable of making my own cables.


I can get the same crimper as MDPC has in Aus im pretty sure, MDPC was a pain the last time i tried to order from there







. I like how Lutro0 takes the time to mill the crimpers down and make them perfect, good guy Lutro0 anyone?









Yeah I have the Molex remover, had mine for ages the things awesome so easy to use









nah not one cable I ment the all the cables, still too way to long and shouldnt of been stuck in there that bad, I did check Lutro0s video about stuck cables but it didnt seem to help







. Like I said I only ever have a problem with the stock connectors once I have them out there fine its just when they've never been out before there a pita









I gotta buy a heap of pins anyway, gonna remake all my molex cables and my 8 pin CPU cable, there either to long or to many of the damn double wires that takes up what little space I have... on the back side of my Case Labs SM5









Right o lads, I think I found my way around the Silverstone PCI cables and there capacitors without removing them, this is what I done

So first thing I did was cover the capacitor in black electrical tape



As you can see in both pics the sleeve is all the way up together and its superglued in place, this was the best way I could come up with to deal with the stupid thing without having a heap of shrink



If you think that I did a crap job... well just look at how it was...



I do still have to stitch it all together but for now Im happy with it


----------



## KrazyKap

You can cut those capacitors off







I have done with no problem, and Lutro has also said it is fine. There's a cable sleeving FAQ he wrote, somewhere around here


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I can get the same crimper as MDPC has in Aus im pretty sure, MDPC was a pain the last time i tried to order from there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I like how Lutro0 takes the time to mill the crimpers down and make them perfect, good guy Lutro0 anyone?


Lutro, MDPC-X, and about 20 other Crimpers are either OEM'd by the same company or based of the same base model.  But they're not the same crimpers. 

Lutro breaks it down extremely well in the OP of the Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions Thread. Expand the "Which Crimpers & Pins Do I Buy" if you wanna see the difference.

As far as whether Lutro's a good guy. I mean I don't really know him personally. He's definitely helped me and half of OCN out on more than one occasion. He's probly the single biggest contributor to the Sleeving Scene and teaching people how to do it themselves. His websites a real good spot to buy sleeving supplies. Prices are very reasonable and he tells you exactly what it is that you're buying. Also, if you have any questions about any of his products, he's on OCN all the time answering people's questions. I like buying from people like that personally. Anyway, if there's something you wanna know about sleeving, i highly recommend you click on that link i gave you and read through the first page of the thread. There's alot of useful info.

Also, from everything I've read on here, most people cut the caps off their SilverStone cables.
Good Luck


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KrazyKap*
> 
> You can cut those capacitors off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have done with no problem, and Lutro has also said it is fine. There's a cable sleeving FAQ he wrote, somewhere around here


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Lutro, MDPC-X, and about 20 other Crimpers are either OEM'd by the same company or based of the same base model.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But they're not the same crimpers.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lutro breaks it down extremely well in the OP of the Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions Thread. Expand the "Which Crimpers & Pins Do I Buy" if you wanna see the difference.
> 
> As far as whether Lutro's a good guy. I mean I don't really know him personally. He's definitely helped me and half of OCN out on more than one occasion. He's probly the single biggest contributor to the Sleeving Scene and teaching people how to do it themselves. His websites a real good spot to buy sleeving supplies. Prices are very reasonable and he tells you exactly what it is that you're buying. Also, if you have any questions about any of his products, he's on OCN all the time answering people's questions. I like buying from people like that personally. Anyway, if there's something you wanna know about sleeving, i highly recommend you click on that link i gave you and read through the first page of the thread. There's alot of useful info.
> 
> Also, from everything I've read on here, most people cut the caps off their SilverStone cables.
> Good Luck


Atm Im gonna keep the caps on, might test without them later on but for now I'll leave them until after I've modded/built all my other cables







, I've fried components before so Im a lot more careful now









Yeah realized after I said it that Lutro0 did a thing about crimpers







oops

As far as I've seen Lutro0s really the only guy who really knows what hes talking about when it comes to sleeving I know theres others but they dont go as in depth and detailed in there videos as he does. His shop is awesome normally shipping prices to Aus suck, even up paying nearly double of what you bought in some cases







I think for all the stuff Im gonna order next time shipping is something like $15







cant even get that price IN Aus!


----------



## .theMetal

Cable experts, I have a question.

I just picked up a Silverstone Strider Gold 550w power supply. Its very short, and fully modular.

Anyways the cables are 4x as long as they need to be in my Node. I have a set of the Bitfenix alchemy extensions laying around that I will never use and just happen to be the perfect length. Would there be any harm in replacing the female end of the extension with a male end as long as I make sure the wires are going to the right pins and just use them as the cables?


----------



## Big Elf

It won't work. The extensions have female pins on one end and male pins on the other. The PSU has female pins at either end.


----------



## M00NIE

They do sell a shortend cable kit, i dont think its expensive. Silverstones a great comapny for all the little wires you didnt know you needed. http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=219&area=en


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> It won't work. The extensions have female pins on one end and male pins on the other. The PSU has female pins at either end.


Ok that is something I didn't think of. hmmm so I guess if I were to grab some male pins and re-crimp them, it would be do-able?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M00NIE*
> 
> They do sell a shortend cable kit, i dont think its expensive. Silverstones a great comapny for all the little wires you didnt know you needed. http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=219&area=en


Yea I know of this. I had planned on grabbing the kit, but I wanted to see if modding these extensions would work first. Looks like I might get it anyways. Amazon has the kit for $20 I believe.

I might even just end up grabbing my soldering iron and shortening the cables that came with the supply. I literally only need 3-4 inches of length for the 24 pin....


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Ok that is something I didn't think of. hmmm so I guess if I were to grab some male pins and re-crimp them, it would be do-able?


You'd need female pins. The problems you might encounter are firstly you'd need to melt the end of the sleeve again to remove it from the pin which might do too much damage to the sleeve. Secondly is that even if you carefully remove the old pins then because the insulation on the wire has been crushed you might not get a robust connection with a new pin. If you were to cut off the old pins you'd then be shortening the cable by a few mm by stripping off more insulation and also ideally would need to trim the sleeve before tacking back on.

If you have a crimp tool already it'd be easier to make up new wires and sleeve with paracord.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Ok that is something I didn't think of. hmmm so I guess if I were to grab some male pins and re-crimp them, it would be do-able?
> 
> 
> 
> You'd need female pins. The problems you might encounter are firstly you'd need to melt the end of the sleeve again to remove it from the pin which might do too much damage to the sleeve. Secondly is that even if you carefully remove the old pins then because the insulation on the wire has been crushed you might not get a robust connection with a new pin. If you were to cut off the old pins you'd then be shortening the cable by a few mm by stripping off more insulation and also ideally would need to trim the sleeve before tacking back on.
> 
> If you have a crimp tool already it'd be easier to make up new wires and sleeve with paracord.
Click to expand...

Gotcha. you have thoroughly talked me out of this plan







much appreciate it.

I'm thinking I will just end up with the short cable kit and venturing into the land of sleeving my own cables. Its about time I suppose.


----------



## KrazyKap

Nvm, late and wrong reply - using mobile...


----------



## kj1060

This may be a stupid question, but I have read that when sleeving a HX750 as long as you don't open the PSU your warranty will be intact. Is it even possible to sleeve the PSU without opening it? I was planning on sleeving it like I did my AX1200 and then using a zip tie on the inside of the PSU for the non-modular cables.


----------



## Liradon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kj1060*
> 
> This may be a stupid question, but I have read that when sleeving a HX750 as long as you don't open the PSU your warranty will be intact. Is it even possible to sleeve the PSU without opening it? I was planning on sleeving it like I did my AX1200 and then using a zip tie on the inside of the PSU for the non-modular cables.


It's not a stupid question. It's good that you ask these kind of questions







.
Normally, you are not allowed to change anything to your PSU if you want to keep your warranty.
Even sleeving is changing your PSU. It's not his 'original state', thus voiding your warranty.


----------



## kj1060

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liradon*
> 
> It's not a stupid question. It's good that you ask these kind of questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Normally, you are not allowed to change anything to your PSU if you want to keep your warranty.
> Even sleeving is changing your PSU. It's not his 'original state', thus voiding your warranty.


That is what I thought, but I wanted to double check. Anything special I need to do once I open up the PSU or should be careful of?


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kj1060*
> 
> That is what I thought, but I wanted to double check. Anything special I need to do once I open up the PSU or should be careful of?


Modern PSUs are not that dangerous. The only thing capable of doing any damage are the
capacitors if they still carry some charge when you open it. Discharge them safely (connect
them to ground) and you'll be fine.

I once read an excellent article about this, but can't seem to find it anywhere anymore. It
compared the dangers of opening a computer PSU vs. something really dangerous like
opening old cathode ray tubes. I'll post link if I can manage to find it again.

*EDIT:*

Ha, found it!








Capacitor Safety in Power Supplies

Just re-read it, it seems it's not even necessary to discharge the caps manually.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm starting to feel like a Lutro sales rep in this thread, but if you like Paracord Better, I HIGHLY recommend Lutro's Coreless Paracord, also getting his little Paracord threading tool so you don't snag the sleeving. It looks like it was purposely made for sleeving. Alot of Paracord looks like it was purposely made for shoelaces.
> The Lutro and MDPC Crimpers most def give the best crimps (In my limited experience...). If you really wanted the best of the best, you should buy the MDPC Crimper and then buy the Die from Lutro, (Sorry Lutro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), then you'll have the best of both worlds. MDPC Crimper can't crimp Fat Molex Pins or 16AWG very well. Lutro milled his die, to make it work great with 16AWG and 4-Pin molex's. To make that modification, i think it sacrifices a tiny bit on the smaller guages. But if you were gonna pick one, I'd def choose the Lutro Crimper cuz Nilz tells you right on his website not to use his MDPC crimper on 4-Pin Molex's. The Custom Lutro Die fixes that.
> 
> -snip-


Not a sales rep at all, although I appreciate it a ton as word of mouth is my biggest advertisement. And every bit of it is appreciated greatly.

Just to clear a little up on the crimper.

MDPC and I both sell the exact same model, and we both mill the die. However I mill mine more to fit 16awg wires better - however they will do 18awg and 16awg just fine as well as the 4pin molex terminals. I also mill the smaller bit of the die to better crimp fan cables and smaller terminals so our die gets allot of custom love.

I do offer a die milling service or replacement for MDPC as I have been asked so much and allot of people tend to want the die that handles 16awg better. But really it comes down to opinion, style and methods of sleeving as to which one will suit you better. Both are great tools just depends on if you want to use 16awg and which store you are closer to or order from.









Also thanks a ton for all the kind comments, I try to post on OCN as much as possible but I normally only end up getting through my inbox which fills up everyday from questions. Also I only update my guides on OCN and the rest of the sites link back. My heart is always to get new sleevers into the hobby and have people do their own - but I end up doing a ton of custom work which keeps me pretty busy.


----------



## nyk20z3

Ordered the rest of the stuff i needed from Lutro to venture in to sleeving for myself.

2x 1/4th Inch 3:1 Ratio Heatshrink 4ft
1x LC Flush Cutter
1x Original Molex Extractor
1x Round 4 Pin Aux Extractor


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Are the Lutro0 crimpers that you can buy through Nate at E22 also milled by you Mike?


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Are the Lutro0 crimpers that you can buy through Nate at E22 also milled by you Mike?


They're the same ones shipped over to the UK.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

sweet


----------



## kpoeticg

Has anybody here ever used any of the Molex Panel Mount Housing's? I'm planning on doing like a faux rear PSU Panel/Extension Receptacle and i really can't find any examples


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Has anybody here ever used any of the Molex Panel Mount Housing's? I'm planning on doing like a faux rear PSU Panel/Extension Receptacle and i really can't find any examples


I don't envy you the task of trying to track them down. Maybe work through the Molex listings for Mini-Fit Jr Connectors for *Vertical Headers* or *Right-Angle Headers*?

The pictures don't always match the actual item so you may need to read the descriptions as well.


----------



## kpoeticg

I've already found a listing of them on the Molex website. But like you said, the pictures are the same whether it has 2 pins or 24. There's also a few different style options. That's why i was wondering if anybody's done or seen something like that before =P

THIS is just a Molex website search of "Panel Mount Mini Fit"

Seems like an idea some1 b4 me must've had. I searched all night last night for a build log or some type of example. I've thought about the idea to the point i feel like i MUST do it LOL. Plus with all the dbl/triple crimps on my PSU, i feel like it's a nice mod to use with extensions. Especially if i can pull it off in like an acrylic light panel or something


----------



## Big Elf

I've just realised that you want panel mount rather than the board mounts I linked to, doh.

Some suppliers do stock the male panel mounts and here's an *example* from FrozenCPU. You might have to search round different suppliers to find all the ones you need as I couldn't find a 24 Pin on FrozenCPU for example.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, i saw those at FrozenCPU. I'm about to buy a bunch of Molex pins anyway, so i don't mind ordering off a Molex Distributor. I just don't know how sturdy those Panel Mount ears are cuz i've never seen em used. I was hoping to literally make something that looks like your looking at the back of a Modular Power Supply. Maybe a bit smaller, but sturdy like that. I've considered something like Luster Terminals too but don't think that would look nearly as good. I'd really like to be able to somehow connect and disconnect from both sides of the Panel, PSU -> Panel and Panel -> Mobo/GPU's. I might end up just going with the Panel Mount Ears if that's the best option. I'm curious about these too


----------



## Big Elf

I've had a few of the panel mounts similar to the example I linked to. I'm pretty certain they'd be robust if the mounting holes were cut accurately but look crap.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah i don't wanna do it if they look like crap. I'm kinda doing it so it'll be on display in my mod. The PSU's in the bottom level of the HAF XB with the bays. Then the top level has the mobo. I'm gonna have windows in the top level. I'd love to have a section of acrylic that looks like a legit Molex Hub/Panel/Plate

There's also these Mini Fit TPA's 

I've tried searching Google and OCN like crazy for like "Molex Panel Mod" "Molex Connection Plate" "Rear PSU Mod" "Rear PSU Extension"

I feel like i'm not using the right words.

Meh, maybe i'm hoping to be able to do too much. Seemed like a good idea =P.
Thanx for trying to help me out BE.









Those right angle and vertical headers are only useful on a PCB right? Or was i overlooking something when you linked those?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quick question about the 24 pin, with the double orange wire, do you guys just use Lutro0's double wire technique and splice it up a little further?

Thanks, only wire Im stuck on atm


----------



## kpoeticg

Lol, that whole issue is what got me thinking about making a Molex Hub Panel in the first place =P
I haven't dealt with it yet so i can't help ya. My 24 Pin has 6 dbl crimps and a triple crimp.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quick question about the 24 pin, with the double orange wire, do you guys just use Lutro0's double wire technique and splice it up a little further?
> 
> Thanks, only wire Im stuck on atm


Can use Lutro's splice and solder video, but you can also crimp both wires into one pin.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Can use Lutro's splice and solder video, but you can also crimp both wires into one pin.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ah ok cool thanks







, think I'll use the splice, bit hard to do shrinkless paracord on one wire let alone 2


----------



## Gardnerphotos

is the new RM series 1to1??


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Can use Lutro's splice and solder video, but you can also crimp both wires into one pin.


I've never been able to get this to work. I've tried it over and over and it always looks like crap.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I've never been able to get this to work. I've tried it over and over and it always looks like crap.


Trick is that you have to melt it quite a lot, which means multiple pieces of heatshrink


----------



## iamkraine

I'm trying to figure out how to make custom fan extensions without cutting the original wires.

I have noise blockers which conveniently have female connects right at the start of the fan so they don't require cutting. All I have to do is make extensions for the length I want.


I have the male, female connectors and pins. Do I have to pin the female side and solder the male side?


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> I'm trying to figure out how to make custom fan extensions without cutting the original wires.
> 
> I have noise blockers which conveniently have female connects right at the start of the fan so they don't require cutting. All I have to do is make extensions for the length I want.
> 
> 
> I have the male, female connectors and pins. Do I have to pin the female side and solder the male side?


Yes the female connectors are crimped...they make both solder and crimp style male connectors, so depending on what you have will determine how they connect to the wire.

Male solder style connector
Male crimp style with matching pins


----------



## kpoeticg

It sounds like you got male PCB headers by accident

THIS is the style for crimps/extensions

 

You can search em as Male Shielded Connectors


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

The first cable stitch done... 500 more to go











Had to watch Franks videos a few times to fully understand what I was ment to be doing


----------



## EPiiKK

I tried sleeving yesterday, but when i tried to fit the cables back in the heatshrink doesnt fit in to the connector. What did i do wrong?


----------



## Liradon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EPiiKK*
> 
> I tried sleeving yesterday, but when i tried to fit the cables back in the heatshrink doesnt fit in to the connector. What did i do wrong?


This can be several things. Sleeving to close to the terminal, heatshrink not fully shrunken..
Could you maybe upload some photos to give us a better idea of what's going on?


----------



## Liradon

Double post, sorry


----------



## EPiiKK

I alredy took the failed ones apart, i did the sleeve acording to the lutro0 guide, maybe the heatshrink ist shrunk enough. I got to try again and try to shrink the heatshrink more, if it fails i'll be back


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Try put it in while the shrink is still hot so that it can be 'squished' into shape by the connector, if you let it cool in between shrinking and placing it in the connector it is likely that it will solidify and be too large to fit in the connector


----------



## EPiiKK

Ah ok! I might have messed that up


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It sounds like you got male PCB headers by accident
> 
> THIS is the style for crimps/extensions
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can search em as Male Shielded Connectors


The male solder style I linked are also used for cables very frequently...they aren't just for PCBs...


----------



## kpoeticg

Really? Seems like a lot more trouble to go through than crimping a few pins on =P
I believe you, just never considered it myself i guess....


----------



## longroadtrip

Just like this...











Makes for a less bulky connection.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> The male solder style I linked are also used for cables very frequently...they aren't just for PCBs...


I prefer the solder on ones by far. Much less bulky. Much easier to pull off the black casing compared to the 4-pin hood connector.


----------



## longroadtrip

Exactly...I prefer them for that reason as well...


----------



## kpoeticg

Interesting. Wire's one of the weirdest things for me to solder. I'm still learning, but it's nothing like soldering on a PCB. I def prefer crimps on wires.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Just like this...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Makes for a less bulky connection.


Lol, i know alot of retail stuff comes like that. Just didn't know many diy types still used/preferred em =)


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Wire's one of the weirdest things for me to solder.


I love how stranded wire wicks the solder


----------



## kpoeticg

Damn, that's a nice pic for splicing








I guess it's cuz crimps have wings that fully encapsulate the strands. It makes me feel like the connection is more solid. I'm still new with both crimping and soldering tho.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So I stitched my 6 pin PCI cable... starting to see why people take the capacitors off


----------



## iamkraine

This is my fan, noise blocker.

This is the modular cable that came with the fan.

This is what I want to plug my custom fan cables into.


So how do I make custom length cables without destroying the stock ones?


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> This is my fan, noise blocker.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the modular cable that came with the fan.
> 
> This is what I want to plug my custom fan cables into.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So how do I make custom length cables without destroying the stock ones?


Make new fan cables?

22AWG wire
Female fan crimps
Female fan connector

Male fan connector soldered to the wires
OR
Male crimps
Male connector.


----------



## iamkraine

Y
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Make new fan cables?
> 
> 22AWG wire
> Female fan crimps
> Female fan connector
> 
> Male fan connector soldered to the wires
> OR
> Male crimps
> Male connector.


That's what I was thinking. I have the same connectors that are on the stock cables. So all I need to do is crimp the female connector and solder the male connector?


----------



## longroadtrip

Yep...


----------



## Elder

My attempts to clean up the mess.
I did probably eight or ten different versions ... testing in progress.
8mm or 3mm laser cut acryl (Perspex)

Fat (8mm)















More tests...





Last "slim" version tested in my mate PC.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> My attempts to clean up the mess.
> I did probably eight or ten different versions ... testing in progress.
> 8mm or 3mm laser cut acryl (Perspex)
> 
> Fat (8mm)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More tests...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last "slim" version tested in my mate PC.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks pretty damn good, beats hours of stitching


----------



## socketus

Shades of D.Wood ! the first group of cable clamps - you can use those on existing cables or cables that you sleeve with that open side. Excellent !

but the other sets are beauties too. Thinking of going Artisan ? You'd have more work than you know !


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Absolutely beautiful. I really want some of those first ones lol


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

WOW! So need a couple sets of those! Nice work Elder!!!


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So finished stitching my 6 pin PCI with the capacitor still attached





Cables are a bit dodgy, best I could do









Dont mind the dirty ass windowsill


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Elder, how did you cut dem holes so clean without chips and all? Any special drill bits? Heated/cooled bits?

P.S. I predict 1000-page party after next reply.


----------



## Liradon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Elder, how did you cut dem holes so clean without chips and all? Any special drill bits? Heated/cooled bits?
> 
> P.S. I predict 1000-page party after next reply.


It's laser-cut


----------



## Gardnerphotos

whos gonna get post 9999


----------



## WiSK

You are!


----------



## EPiiKK

I'm fine with 9993
I got the sleeving done, decided to go heatshrinkless








wish i could post pics but i lost my phone usb cable and uploading trough mobile device doesn't work aparently...


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quick question about cable sewing/stitching, how far apart do you put each line of stitches?, I was doing my 5cm, it looked ok but when I put the cables in my case they didnt look as clean and straight as everyone elses


----------



## nyk20z3

I got the Lutro molex tools in today so I can start Sleeving but I am having zero success so far.

I have the molex removed diagram but no matter what I do none of the PCI-E pins will pop out!


----------



## kpoeticg

You're using the one with 2 Prongs? You have to slide it inside the connector but outside of the pin. Kinda pull it up by the wire to make it completely straight. Then pull back as you're pushing the tool in. Some pins can get stuck and you have to pull hard, even ripping the pin off the wire sometimes. But you're whole connector shouldn't be like that.

Sometimes it helps to push the pin towards the tool to get the prongs seated


----------



## nyk20z3

Thanks for the advice -

I complete a 4 pin molex but i can see how much of a pain the PCI-E, 24 Pin are going to be so i will just pay to have them done.


----------



## kpoeticg

4 Pin Molex is completely different though. You use the round tool for them. And it's literally just push the tool in til you hear a click, then pull the wire out. ATX pins use a different tool and are more of a pain. They aren't THAT hard though. You just need to get a feel for it. I wouldn't give up.....


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Thanks for the advice -
> 
> I complete a 4 pin molex but i can see how much of a pain the PCI-E, 24 Pin are going to be so i will just pay to have them done.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Post #9999 BOOM! ATX pins arent that bad, you need to push them into the connector before pulling them out though!


----------



## kpoeticg

Post 10,000








Nothing helpful to say


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> whos gonna get post 9999


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You are!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Post #9999 BOOM! ATX pins arent that bad, you need to push them into the connector before pulling them out though!


I bet you had this thread open for the last 4 days waiting for others to post
















nyk20z3 just keep practicing on the ATX pins, it's a useful skill to have


----------



## nyk20z3

I am just going to sleeve some extensions i had,no reason to mess with double wires if i dont have 2 lol.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I bet you had this thread open for the last 4 days waiting for others to post


I actually saw it in my subscriptions and saw I hadnt posted for a while and thought I had missed it because I couldn't remember which thread it was that was nearly on 9999


----------



## Gardnerphotos

I know that the AX series PSUs are supposed to be a pain to sleeve except from the 1200, but how hard are they actually and can you get good results?


----------



## Big Elf

Most of the Corsair AX series are made by SeaSonic so if the cables are assembled by the same people they're not the easiest for pin removal. The AX-1200 and the AX 'i' series are made by Flextronic.

The SeaSonic made ones have a few dual wires but once you've cracked splicing are pretty straightforward to sleeve.

One trick if you have the space to do it for the 24 pin cable is to make up a short one, say 150mm, then create an extension from that to the motherboard. That way you can create and hide the splices in the short cable, assuming you can route it behind the motherboard or in the back of the case.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

I got a question about these 4 black wires, grounds Im guessing?



With my PSU a Silverstone ST85F-P, stock there a little messy with the pin order being this

Blue, PSU

8 7 6 5

| | | |

5 7 8 6

Black, GPU

It makes for a hell of a mess when I stitch them so Im wondering would it be safe to match them with there correct numbers, so 8 - 8, 7 - 7 etc or could that cause problems? I also took the capacitors off which had one end connect to one of the blacks, cant remember what one tho









Thanks


----------



## Liradon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> I got a question about these 4 black wires, grounds Im guessing?
> 
> 
> 
> With my PSU a Silverstone ST85F-P, stock there a little messy with the pin order being this
> 
> Blue, PSU
> 
> 8 7 6 5
> 
> | | | |
> 
> 5 7 8 6
> 
> Black, GPU
> 
> It makes for a hell of a mess when I stitch them so Im wondering would it be safe to match them with there correct numbers, so 8 - 8, 7 - 7 etc or could that cause problems? I also took the capacitors off which had one end connect to one of the blacks, cant remember what one tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Hey Aussie

Normally, black wires are indeed GRND wires, so you can change the order of them however you like







.
Same principle with the yellow wires.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liradon*
> 
> Hey Aussie
> 
> Normally, black wires are indeed GRND wires, so you can change the order of them however you like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Same principle with the yellow wires.


Ah cool thanks, just wasnt sure and wasnt exactly game enough to stick it in and see what happens


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quick question about cable sewing/stitching, how far apart do you put each line of stitches?, I was doing my 5cm, it looked ok but when I put the cables in my case they didnt look as clean and straight as everyone elses


It depends a bit on the cable and how it's supposed to bend in the end (or how
straight it's going to be). I use something between 3 and 5 cm usually. If I want
it to make a bend, I might go down as low as 1 cm on the inner side of the bend
though. However, this might also depend on how stiff your wire is (so, what kind
of wire and sleeve you're using). I picked mine because it's very floppy (it's silicone
wire with lots and lots of very fine strands and a paracord sleeve), thus allowing
me to make very tight bends if necessary, but also needing more stitches to look
neat and tidy. If you're using stiff wire with PET sleeve you probably don't need as
many stitches as I do.

It is important IME to lace the wires into the shape which they are going to have
in the end if you're lacing them outside the case (or mount them first, put them
into the correct shape and then lace them inside the case).

So, if you want them to make a 90 degree bend, either make sure that bend is
laced into the cable before putting it in or put it in, make the bend as you want
it and then lace it. Also, you may need to take into account that the inner wires
in a bend might need to be a bit shorter than the outer ones, this starts to matter
once you lace things neat and tightly.

As an example, this is the main wire loom for my current project. If you use the
connectors as a size indicator you should be able to get an impression for how
far apart the stitches are. Also note that most of the bends are already made,
I don't make stitches and then force the cable runs into their final shape when
mounting them. This requires precise measuring before making the wires of course.

The 24 pin has been relaced by now, I was not happy with it as it is in this picture,
but it should still be able to give you a good idea of the concept. Also, the messy
parts will be hidden, they were mostly needed because the PSU does not do 1:1
wiring.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> It depends a bit on the cable and how it's supposed to bend in the end (or how
> straight it's going to be). I use something between 3 and 5 cm usually. If I want
> it to make a bend, I might go down as low as 1 cm on the inner side of the bend
> though. However, this might also depend on how stiff your wire is (so, what kind
> of wire and sleeve you're using). I picked mine because it's very floppy (it's silicone
> wire with lots and lots of very fine strands and a paracord sleeve), thus allowing
> me to make very tight bends if necessary, but also needing more stitches to look
> neat and tidy. If you're using stiff wire with PET sleeve you probably don't need as
> many stitches as I do.
> 
> It is important IME to lace the wires into the shape which they are going to have
> in the end if you're lacing them outside the case (or mount them first, put them
> into the correct shape and then lace them inside the case).
> 
> So, if you want them to make a 90 degree bend, either make sure that bend is
> laced into the cable before putting it in or put it in, make the bend as you want
> it and then lace it. Also, you may need to take into account that the inner wires
> in a bend might need to be a bit shorter than the outer ones, this starts to matter
> once you lace things neat and tightly.
> 
> As an example, this is the main wire loom for my current project. If you use the
> connectors as a size indicator you should be able to get an impression for how
> far apart the stitches are. Also note that most of the bends are already made,
> I don't make stitches and then force the cable runs into their final shape when
> mounting them. This requires precise measuring before making the wires of course.
> 
> The 24 pin has been relaced by now, I was not happy with it as it is in this picture,
> but it should still be able to give you a good idea of the concept. Also, the messy
> parts will be hidden, they were mostly needed because the PSU does not do 1:1
> wiring.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for taking the time to write all that up









Im using the stock 18AWG cables atm with para, my paras really tight on the wire so the cables are pretty stiff

I didnt even think of putting the cable in before stitching it, I just stitched the whole thing straight then stuck it in... needless to say it failed pretty bad









Thanks for the tips/help, I'll play around tomorrow with my 8 pin and see how it goes, luckily i need to re sleeve it today, wasnt happy with all the red


----------



## sueke

hello friend's,

i'm new in here, and i wanna to ask you some thing's about sleeving.

i have a corsair vx450w psu, and bought 2 sets of paracord, one black and other gold, my psu only have one 6pin pci-e connector, and i'm actually using a molex to 6pin connetor to power the GTX 660TI, but, i wanna to use 2 cables that have only 4pin molex and 1 cable that have only power sata connectors from psu to make one 6pin pci-e or one 6+2pin pci-e from the psu, because this connector needs three 12v, and three ground cables.

can i do the modifications without problem and after that sleeve my psu???

I already search the web, and realized that my psu could power 2 gtx 660 in sli, overload test said that the psu operates stable giving 570W, so i would insert more three 6pin pci-e connector to psu

My computer system:

MB Asrock Z77 Extreme 4
CPU i5 3570K 4.4Ghz
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo
8GB DDR3 Corsair Dominator 1866Mhz
GTX 660TI Gigabyte OC
60GB SSD Corsair GT series
500GB Seagate HD
Case Commander MS-I
1 140mm fan
3 120mm fan

Thank's


----------



## Liradon

From what I understand:
- You have 1 x 6 pin PCI-e cable, BUT you are using a molex to 6 pin PCI-e connector to power your 660TI.
- you want to have 2 molex cables and 1 sata cable. Why? I don't understand that.
I also don't understand the part where you say
Quote:


> to make one 6pin pci-e or one 6+2pin pci-e from the psu, because this connector needs three 12v, and three ground cables.


I'm sorry, but I don't really understand what you mean.


----------



## sueke

my psu isn't modular and has:
2 cables with 3 4pin molex connectors each
2 cables with 3 power sata connectors each
1 cable with one 6pin pci-e

my vga needs two 6pin pci-e

i'm not using the 2 cables with the molexes, except to connect the adapter two 4pin molex to one 6pin pci-e for the vga, an 1 cable with satas, so i want to remove the molexes and sata conectors from these 3 cables and made with the 12v and ground rails of these cables one 6pin pci-e, or one 6+2pin pci-e, or yet two 6pin pci-e connectors before i sleeving them.

is it possible???

sorry about my english, i'm brazilian



adapter:


----------



## Big Elf

The better way of doing it would be to 



 additional wires onto the existing PCI-E cable.

The problem with using the cables for the Molex/Auxiliary or the SATA is that they only have one 12V feed on the cable and it would probably be pushing it to splice 2 extra 12V wires onto one of them. You could take a 12V feed from different cables but I suspect it would end up both looking and being messy.

Edit: I suspect the overload of 570W is in bursts and not sustained load which is fine if that's the way you'd use it but I wouldn't rely on that if you're going to be folding with it. Also don't forget that if you make up a 6+2 Pin cable that you will need 5 x Ground wires in addition to the 3 x 12V wires.


----------



## sueke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> The better way of doing it would be to
> 
> 
> 
> additional wires onto the existing PCI-E cable.


I'll do it in the existing pci-e like you said, maybe adding a 6+2pin pci-e connector.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> The problem with using the cables for the Molex/Auxiliary or the SATA is that they only have one 12V feed on the cable and it would probably be pushing it to splice 2 extra 12V wires onto one of them. You could take a 12V feed from different cables but I suspect it would end up both looking and being messy.


each cable has one 12v rail, then, if i disasemble three cables i will have three 12v rails and 6 grounds rails ok? so i can make another cable with one 6+2pin pci-e and one 6pin pci-e like i'll have after i double wire like lutroO guide? right?

After this work i'll want to have 2 cables with one 6+2pin pci-e connector and one 6pin pci-e connector each one, 4 connectors to power 2 gtx660ti.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Edit: I suspect the overload of 570W is in bursts and not sustained load which is fine if that's the way you'd use it but I wouldn't rely on that if you're going to be folding with it. Also don't forget that if you make up a 6+2 Pin cable that you will need 5 x Ground wires in addition to the 3 x 12V wires.


i use this review to make a decision to put 2 gtx660ti in sli, apparently the psu sustains 570W with 40A on 12v rail if i really understand.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Corsair-VX450W-Power-Supply-Review/540/8

Like i said, i'm a rooky

Thank's again


----------



## Big Elf

Just to clarify. The overload test had the PSU shutting down after 30 seconds with 596W and they don't state how long they ran it with 570W. I think they were trying to prove it wouldn't blow up with the increased load rather than suggesting it was usable.

I've been told by SeaSonic that my 1000W PSU is capable of 1250W but only in brief bursts and not sustained.

After saying that; the TDP of the 660 Ti is only 150W so at stock settings unlikely to trouble a quality 450W PSU


----------



## sueke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Just to clarify. The overload test had the PSU shutting down after 30 seconds with 596W and they don't state how long they ran it with 570W. I think they were trying to prove it wouldn't blow up with the increased load rather than suggesting it was usable.
> 
> I've been told by SeaSonic that my 1000W PSU is capable of 1250W but only in brief bursts and not sustained.
> 
> After saying that; the TDP of the 660 Ti is only 150W so at stock settings unlikely to trouble a quality 450W PSU


i think, maybe i'm wrong, that my psu could handle a system with a 660ti in sli mode, because the tdp is 150w, two will demand 300w, plus 110w needed for the i5 3570k 4.4Ghz, 2x 4GB DDR3, one SSD, one 500GB HD, a cpu cooler and a half dozen of fans

I'm very happy for the help, i will post my work as soon as finish it.

Thank's a lot Big Elf


----------



## kj1060

So I just did a very bad thing and could use some help. While trying to sleeve the very last cable of my HX 750 (the thin green) one I accidentally pulled to hard and the wire came out, but the connection is still in the header (black part). Any help to fix this would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kj1060*
> 
> So I just did a very bad thing and could use some help. While trying to sleeve the very last cable of my HX 750 (the thin green) one I accidentally pulled to hard and the wire came out, but the connection is still in the header (black part). Any help to fix this would be greatly appreciated.


Pull the pin and crimp a new one on. Or solder that one back on.


----------



## kj1060

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Pull the pin and crimp a new one on. Or solder that one back on.


Thank you for the fast response, but any suggestions for getting the pin out?


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kj1060*
> 
> Thank you for the fast response, but any suggestions for getting the pin out?


I did all mine with 2 staples. Its hard on your fingers but it works. Check youtube (or actually in this thread) for a video on atx/pci pin removal. But basically you straighten out the staple into the shape of an L then push one down each side of the pin then just push it out with some other tiny pin or screwdriver. If you have the staples in the right place they will slide right out.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Well, I doubt anyone except the guys who have that PSU would be able to identify the pin by the description of “the thin green wire”. Assuming it is your normal ATX pin, you will just need to grab it with something thin like pincette and pull it out through the hole, it’s as easy as that. There are your friendly neighbourhood “pin remover” tools, of course, they might do the trick as well. You might also use the pin remover tool to press on the “wings” the pin has and use something like a knitting needle to push it out as if you were pulling on the cable. Just thoughts.


----------



## Big Elf

Make your own *Stuck Pin Remover* using a Bobby Pin/Hair Grip and a pair of pliers.

Thin Green wire is the 'PS ON'


----------



## kj1060

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Make your own *Stuck Pin Remover* using a Bobby Pin/Hair Grip and a pair of pliers.
> 
> Thin Green wire is the 'PS ON'


Thank you everyone for your responses. I was able to get the pin out using a hair grip and vice grips. Now I just need to figure out where I can get a crimper since Lutro is sold out.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

You can always use needle nose pliers or get a general purpose crimper at your local auto parts source, those should not be more expensive than $10.


----------



## kpoeticg

The new Telios Red & Black Fusion is niiiiice. So is the Dark Red. I'm doin either White/Gray/Red Fusion or White/Gray/Dark Red. I really shoulda decided before i ordered. I figured it would be an easier choice in person so i ordered both.

This is a tough choice


----------



## jleslie246

My first attempt at sleeving with rope. I got the sleeving from my outdoor tent ropes. I think it goes well. Just 26 more to do!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kj1060*
> 
> Thank you everyone for your responses. I was able to get the pin out using a hair grip and vice grips. Now I just need to figure out where I can get a crimper since Lutro is sold out.


Crimpers will be back in less than 2 weeks, I am working on getting them cheaper for everyone!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The new Telios Red & Black Fusion is niiiiice. So is the Dark Red. I'm doin either White/Gray/Red Fusion or White/Gray/Dark Red. I really shoulda decided before i ordered. I figured it would be an easier choice in person so i ordered both.
> 
> This is a tough choice


We need pics! And I am glad you like it.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> We need pics! And I am glad you like it.


You know i ALMOST PM'd you to ask if you could help me pick one before i ordered. I should've cuz both look incredible with the white and gray. I got a ton of stuff i'm working on for my build, but i'll try to get at least a VGA Extension done to show everyone how the new colors look in the next cpl days. I'll try to do one with each. I'm leaning towards the Fusion just because it's different. But the Dark Red looks sooooo good too LOL.

I've been practicing heatshrinkless with the Black Telios i ordered from you a few months ago along with like 400ft of Coreless Paracord I'm not even gonna use now








I should be able to knock out a cpl VGA Extensions without too much trouble (Hoping!!)


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You know i ALMOST PM'd you to ask if you could help me pick one before i ordered. I should've cuz both look incredible with the white and gray. I got a ton of stuff i'm working on for my build, but i'll try to get at least a VGA Extension done to show everyone how the new colors look in the next cpl days. I'll try to do one with each. I'm leaning towards the Fusion just because it's different. But the Dark Red looks sooooo good too LOL.
> 
> I've been practicing heatshrinkless with the Black Telios i ordered from you a few months ago along with like 400ft of Coreless Paracord I'm not even gonna use now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should be able to knock out a cpl VGA Extensions without too much trouble (Hoping!!)


We look forward to the pics!


----------



## Mystriss

I wanna share my custom single braids. Unfortunately I lost them when I fried the non-modular PSU playing with lighting :/ But I'll remake them shortly.

Splicing custom single braids into the external PSU:


24pin braid:
   

Sata power single braiding (ran all the wires under the MB):
  

PCI-E cable w/El Wire:


----------



## kpoeticg

So here's a few pics of the Telios Red Fusion with Telios White & Gray. I only have one connector in the pic because i messed up with the wire measurements AND the sleeving measurements. Aside from practicing melting some black Telios for heatshrinkless, this is my first time working with PET. I know it's far from perfect, but i just kinda threw them together to show everybody how the new Red Fusion Telios looks















All the wire underneath is Lutro's thin diameter 16AWG. I know 16's not needed, but i bought some before i knew that and figured might as well use it. I have black wire under the Fusion and white under everything else

I'll make 4 Dark Red wires later and swap em out for the Fusion's so you guys can see that too


----------



## lowfat

Looks like the weave is tight, which is the most important thing. It is what people always seem to skip on because it hurts the hands and requires more work. Looks pretty good so far.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Looks like the weave is tight, which is the most important thing. It is what people always seem to skip on because it hurts the hands and requires more work. Looks pretty good so far.


The reason the last 2 pics look better than the others is cuz of that Photography thread you linked to in the Watercooling Gallery yesterday. Me and my build log thank you










I'm gonna start using that Panavise for a Tripod for my Galaxy S3. Woulda never thought of that if i didn't read that tutorial


----------



## lowfat

You shouldn't be facing the window when taking the picture. The window should be behind the camera. That way you get light on the object you are shooting.


----------



## kpoeticg

Oh, guess i missed the point on that. Thanks again =)

Also, as far as the weave, the quality's 10 out of 10 just like all Lutro's sleeving products. I bought Telios and Stiff Line from him. The quality seems the same on both, just the Telios is way more flexible.


----------



## OneTreeHill

Hi ,folks.I used ht-255D , but I've had problems.What do you suggest me?


----------



## Big Elf

As you're in Turkey either the *MDPC-X* version from Germany or the *Lutro0 Tool* from the UK.

What are the problems you're having, are the pins not secure on the wire after crimping?


----------



## torqueroll

Here's my first ever 24 pin sleeving. Glad I didn't fry the components.









I used MDPC sleeving, contacts, crimper as well as the Lutro sleeving tool. I prefer using a flame instead of a heat gun as well.


----------



## WiSK

Nice combination of colours Torqueroll


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Nice combination of colours Torqueroll


^This!


----------



## kpoeticg

Here's a few pics with the new Dark Red Telios guys. Thanks again for the photography tips lowfat. I'm getting a little better


----------



## OneTreeHill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> As you're in Turkey either the *MDPC-X* version from Germany or the *Lutro0 Tool* from the UK.
> 
> What are the problems you're having, are the pins not secure on the wire after crimping?


The clips weren't squeezing the cable enough so it kept getting loose and eventually of.

This product is out of stock

http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-ratchet-crimper

these two options

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-crimping/mdpc-crimping-tool-6th-anniversary.htm

http://sleeve-modding.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=293


----------



## kpoeticg

The link he gave you for the Lutro crimper is from E22's shop. It's in stock there. Order that one

Or you could get the MDPC Crimper and then order the Die from Lutro. Then you'd have the best of both worlds. Lutro's shines with certain gauge wire and MDPC shines with certain gauges. But Lutro's is a better all around crimper cuz it lets u crimp 4Pin Molex's


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneTreeHill*
> 
> these two options


MDPC-X crimper better than SN-28B. And seems Nils lowered his price again, so cheaper too.


----------



## OneTreeHill

Is there a difference between LC Ratchet Crimper and MDPC crimper? LC Ratchet Crimper going to cost me $ 30 more. LC Ratchet :75$ Mdpc:35$

Is it worth the price difference between them?


----------



## WiSK

They are the same crimper, but Lutro0 apparently mills the die out to allow for 16 AWG wire.


----------



## kpoeticg

They're the same crimper. The change is in the Die (I think). The MDPC Crimper works better with 18 & 22 while the LC is better with 16 & 20 (I think). I know it's something like that. I'm sure some1 here will straighten out what i said. But the MDPC Crimper can't do Fat 4Pin Molex's. Lutro's can

Lutro sells his milled die separate for like 12USD. That's what i was recommending earlier, to get the MDPC Crimper and buy the Die from Lutro

HERE'S a good review/comparison between the MDPC and LC Crimpers

Hey guys, I'm doin my first 24Pin Extension. I'm making a 12" extension. I remember hearing or reading somewhere to make the outer 2 wires a little shorter, so i did them 11 6/8". Do i make the inner 12 wires shorter or do i make them 12" too? Thanx in advance.

By "Inner 12 Wires" i mean the bottom level of the extension


----------



## jleslie246

Thanks for the help here guys. I pretty much finished what I wanted to do for this system. Always more to do though.


----------



## Blackops_2

So i'm looking to eventually get custom sleeved cables or do it myself if it comes down to it. At moddiy can you request specific cables, in specific colors? Also are the custom sleeved cables/sets sold just cables sleeved by them? Googled seasonic X sleeved cables and didn't see them anywhere else so i assume they sleeve them themselves?


----------



## szeged

doing some work while off work









sleeving another evga 1000w g2 psu, heres some shots of the pci-e cables i did, just doing the stock cables for now since i wanna have it ready to go for when the 780ti classified drops, ill cut them to length later









Spoilers, 6 pics, didnt want to make the page longer than needed











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> doing some work while off work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sleeving another evga 1000w g2 psu, heres some shots of the pci-e cables i did, just doing the stock cables for now since i wanna have it ready to go for when the 780ti classified drops, ill cut them to length later
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoilers, 6 pics, didnt want to make the page longer than needed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! Will you be sleeving the 24pin or making an extension?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Nice! Will you be sleeving the 24pin or making an extension?


ill be sleeving the 24pin today


----------



## kpoeticg

My first 24 Pin


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ill be sleeving the 24pin today


Cool. Pics please! I sleeved mine and it's a pain in the arse.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> My first 24 Pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice job!


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> So i'm looking to eventually get custom sleeved cables or do it myself if it comes down to it. At moddiy can you request specific cables, in specific colors? Also are the custom sleeved cables/sets sold just cables sleeved by them? Googled seasonic X sleeved cables and didn't see them anywhere else so i assume they sleeve them themselves?


They either hire it out .... or have in house sleevers. Either way, they're good enough, and yah you can make a custom order by calling them/chatting them.


----------



## FEAR.

The next power supply I sleeve will have to be heatshrink-less, it looks far cleaner without.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FEAR.*
> 
> The next power supply I sleeve will have to be heatshrink-less, it looks far cleaner without.


If you don't mind burning the living hell out of your index finger and thumb twice per cable, it's not that difficult (the heatshrinkless part anyway)


----------



## torqueroll

One more relaxing night of sleeving.







Did a set for the first 780ti. Tomorrow I'll do the second set.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> They either hire it out .... or have in house sleevers. Either way, they're good enough, and yah you can make a custom order by calling them/chatting them.


Glad to hear it thinking i'm going to get some UV Green/Black cables like this.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FEAR.*
> 
> The next power supply I sleeve will have to be heatshrink-less, it looks far cleaner without.


I used heatshrink with mine but used short pieces so they would be hidden inside the plug (5/16" to be exact). Using it keeps the sleeving tight.


----------



## kpoeticg

Heatshrinkless gets the sleeving as tight as you could ever want it (Read Permanently Attached)

I only just did my first 24Pin but melting the sleeving on the wire works like cement


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Heatshrinkless gets the sleeving as tight as you could ever want it (Read Permanently Attached)
> 
> I only just did my first 24Pin but melting the sleeving on the wire works like cement


Ah, yeah I forgot to mention, mine was with paracord. I had to use heatshrink.


----------



## kpoeticg

Ahhhh i gotcha. I bought like 400ft of coreless paracord when i first decided to sleeve my cables. But after reading so many build logs with sexy-ass sleeving jobs, i couldn't resist. My wallet was hoping that i'd have my cables done before Lutro released his Red Telios, but no such luck


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> If you don't mind burning the living hell out of your index finger and thumb twice per cable, it's not that difficult (the heatshrinkless part anyway)


Never ever burn my fingers. Hell my fingers don't even get sore from pulling the sleeve tight anymore. Practice makes perfect.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Heatshrinkless gets the sleeving as tight as you could ever want it (Read Permanently Attached)


Which is the absolute most important thing if you want to train your cables.

My 24-pin and GPU cables have been holding this position for months. The 24-pin for like 6 months. I have even pulled out the motherboard and swapped to a different one and it never even moved.


----------



## Purostaff

Hey guys,

Is it possible to sleeve cables for the *Silencer Mk III PSU*?

They do have an unorthodox modular connection as shown here:



I'm also interested in having someone local or from the forum sleeve them for me. Shoot me a PM and we'll talk if you're interested.

Cheers.


----------



## OneTreeHill

@kpoeticg & @WiSK ,Thank you for helping. I'm buying mdpcx crimper. But I have one last question on this crimper

Why is it so cheap? http://lutro0-customs.com/products/new-die-for-mdpc-crimper Mdpc price 30 euro


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneTreeHill*
> 
> @kpoeticg & @WiSK ,Thank you for helping. I'm buying mdpcx crimper. But I have one last question on this crimper
> 
> Why is it so cheap? http://lutro0-customs.com/products/new-die-for-mdpc-crimper Mdpc price 30 euro


That isn't a crimper. That is just the die. If you want to use 16AWG (I still don't see the point) w/ an MDPC-X crimper you'd buy this in addition to the crimper. Then swap out the die on the MDPC-X crimper.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Purostaff*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Is it possible to sleeve cables for the*URL=Silencer]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703039]Silencer Mk III PSU[/URL]*?
> 
> They do have an unorthodox modular connection as shown here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm also interested in having someone local or from the forum sleeve them for me. Shoot me a PM and we'll talk if you're interested.
> 
> Cheers.


You can find those connectors on Molex.com & moddiy.com. I forget what they're called but they're pretty common through-panel connectors. Also, you can pull apart ribbon cables for sleeving or any other reason


----------



## Gardnerphotos

My Teleios order arrived







so purty!


----------



## kpoeticg

Lutro didn't write anything on my crimper








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Never ever burn my fingers. Hell my fingers don't even get sore from pulling the sleeve tight anymore. Practice makes perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which is the absolute most important thing if you want to train your cables.
> 
> My 24-pin and GPU cables have been holding this position for months. The 24-pin for like 6 months. I have even pulled out the motherboard and swapped to a different one and it never even moved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How do you do heatshrinkless without burning your fingers???
BTW, great job on the cables + rig


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Lutro didn't write anything on my crimper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do you do heatshrinkless without burning your fingers???
> BTW, great job on the cables + rig


The question should be how do you burn your fingers?









My fingers don't come anywhere near the flame. I use a butane torch so the flame has a pretty narrow burn area. My finger is at least an inch from the flame.Then I pull the heatshrink off w/ a pair of pliers when it is still hot.


----------



## kpoeticg

Did you ever watch Lutro's heatshrinkless PET video? After the Heatshrink starts to bubble, you press it a cpl times to get it to meld with the wire. That's where I burn my fingers

I guess gloves would help, but don't really wanna try sleeving with gloves on


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Do you have to use heatshrink for shrinkless even with Teleios? or is it like paracord where you can do it without?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Do you have to use heatshrink for shrinkless even with Teleios? or is it like paracord where you can do it without?


It might be possible, but the heatshrink def serves it's purpose. It's not like paracord at all

@lowfat, pressing it with my fingers is what gets the sleeving small enough to fit in the molex, and remove it if I need to.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Did you ever watch Lutro's heatshrinkless PET video? After the Heatshrink starts to bubble, you press it a cpl times to get it to meld with the wire. That's where I burn my fingers
> 
> I guess gloves would help, but don't really wanna try sleeving with gloves on


Nope. I've never done that. I've never had a problem w/ the sleeving pulling off the wire. I've done hundreds of heatshrinkless wires w/ no problems.

I do it the way I have shown here in my pics. Although I don't use as much heatshrink now.

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/case-mods-worklog-gallery/54759-sleeving-discussion-gallery-thread.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Do you have to use heatshrink for shrinkless even with Teleios? or is it like paracord where you can do it without?


You should be doing heatshrinkless anyways IMO. It is about 50x as durable, easier to get a nice tight sleeve, looks better (unless you are a master @ keeping the shrinks even), and considerably easier.

EDIT: Reading comprehension after 4 hours of sleeve = not great.

Yes you need to use heatshrink or electrical tape. I like heatshrink since it doesn't leave a sloppy residue.


----------



## kpoeticg

Wow, I've never seen that method. I always just go with Lutro's wisdom








That's real interesting tho. I might give it a shot. The finished wire def looks prettier than when I do it









+1 (again)

Check this video out if you wanna see what I was talking about



Around 11 minutes will show u how I burn my fingers


----------



## OneTreeHill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> That isn't a crimper. That is just the die. If you want to use 16AWG (I still don't see the point) w/ an MDPC-X crimper you'd buy this in addition to the crimper. Then swap out the die on the MDPC-X crimper.


i don't know the size of the cable in awg form, ı bought it from an electrician, on the cable says it is 1 mm2 and this is between 17 and 18awg.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/awg-wire-gauge-d_731.html


----------



## torqueroll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneTreeHill*
> 
> i don't know the size of the cable in awg form(bu garip oldu biraz), ı bought it from an electrician, on the cable says it is 1 mm2 and this is between 17 and 18awg.
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/awg-wire-gauge-d_731.html


Remember to check the outer diameter as well. It's very important to get the right outside thickness. The same awg cable can have very different thicknesses on the isolation. This will affect your crimp and how nice you can strech the sleeving.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *torqueroll*
> 
> Remember to check the outer diameter as well. It's very important to get the right outside thickness. The same awg cable can have very different thicknesses on the isolation. This will affect your crimp and how nice you can strech the sleeving.


This is true. The cable I have tried from PPCS had insulation way too thick w/ the wire too small. It was soft and couldn't hold its position. Thankfully I am able to find stuff locally that works great.


----------



## kpoeticg

I heard that about PPC's wire. That's why i get most/all my wire from Lutro now


----------



## OneTreeHill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *torqueroll*
> 
> Remember to check the outer diameter as well. It's very important to get the right outside thickness. The same awg cable can have very different thicknesses on the isolation. This will affect your crimp and how nice you can strech the sleeving.


This Cable : http://uk.farnell.com/lapp-kabel/4510063/wire-h05v-k-grey-1mm-100m/dp/1285826 (18 awg=

I will buy the stock enters lc crimper and mdpc die. But it does not enter the stock, I will buy mdpcx crimper.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneTreeHill*
> 
> This Cable : http://uk.farnell.com/lapp-kabel/4510063/wire-h05v-k-grey-1mm-100m/dp/1285826 (18 awg=
> 
> I will buy the stock enters lc crimper and mdpc die. But it does not enter the stock, I will buy mdpcx crimper.


I think you got it backwards. LC sells a DIE for the MDPC Crimper. So if you buy the MDPC Crimper, you can order the Die from Lutro that enables you to crimp 16AWG and 4Pin Molex.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneTreeHill*
> 
> This Cable : http://uk.farnell.com/lapp-kabel/4510063/wire-h05v-k-grey-1mm-100m/dp/1285826 (18 awg=


You might find that at 2.6mm in diameter that wire is a bit of a struggle to crimp even with Lutro0s Tool.


----------



## torqueroll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> You might find that at 2.6mm in diameter that wire is a bit of a struggle to crimp even with Lutro0s Tool.


I have to agree, I don't have Lutr0s die but I also think 2.6mm might be too thick.

I prefer around.2,0 - 2,3mm thickness. The wire I've been using most is 2.2mm and they work and look nice..


----------



## lowfat

Ordered the sleeving for my server rebuild. Going w/ ranger green & vanilla sands. Matches the motherboard and ram this way.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So Im gonna take the lazy/poor mans route and just cut my cables and re solder them







just need to know what size heatshrink to use on 18AWG wire to cover the soldered area?


----------



## kpoeticg

3/16th 3:1 or 4:1 should be perfect


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 3/16th 3:1 or 4:1 should be perfect


Thanks







was using electrical tape but you can clearly see it under paracord


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneTreeHill*
> 
> This Cable : http://uk.farnell.com/lapp-kabel/4510063/wire-h05v-k-grey-1mm-100m/dp/1285826 (18 awg=
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I will buy the stock enters lc crimper and mdpc die. But it does not enter the stock, I will buy mdpcx crimper.


Lutro sells 16AWG with a thinner diameter than that. His Custom 16AWG is like 2mm OD & his standard 16AWG is 2.3mm OD. That's right on the edge of wire thickness that's easy to crimp standard atx pins on.

The 2.3mm OD 16AWG is nice for heatshrinkless though. It holds its shape well. 2.6mm will be real difficult to get all your pins on, like every1 else already said
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> was using electrical tape but you can clearly see it under paracord


NP


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> My Teleios order arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so purty!


Id like to know how much different the yellow Teleios is from the MDPC?


----------



## kpoeticg

The only PET i've purchased is Lutro's Telios and Lutro's Stiff-Line so i can't really compare it. But the Telios is definitely top-quality sleeving. I know that Telios is very flexible compared to the Stiff-Line.

I always recommend every1 in the USA to order from LC Customs. I think Lutro0-Customs, MDPC-X, and Darkside Sleeving (DazMode) are all top-of-the-line and the main differences would be particular colors and location, LC = USA, MDPC = Germany, and DazMode = Canada. I'd say go with whatever's closest to you for shipping as long as they have the colors you need

Just my


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> MDPC-X crimper better than SN-28B. And seems Nils lowered his price again, so cheaper too.


all users *MUST* buy from Lutr'o and Nils.








And you don't know *NOTHING* about some items...
I'm sure that you benefit from these posts ....this thread became too commercial .


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *em ht*
> 
> all users *MUST* buy from Lutr'o and Nils.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you don't know *NOTHING* about some items...
> I'm sure that you benefit from these posts ....this thread became too commercial .


If you want to buy rubbish or average then buy from whoever you like. If you want a known good or top quality then buy from Lutro0 or MDPC-X.


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> If you want to buy rubbish or average then buy from whoever you like. If you want a known good or top quality then buy from Lutro0 or MDPC-X.


Question = How can you name *rubbish* some product that you never test ? ( It is not about SN-28B )
Answer = you are in the business too.

In my opinionthis thread must stay *clean* and not to be corrupted from hidden advertising !


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *em ht*
> 
> all users *MUST* buy from Lutr'o and Nils.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you don't know *NOTHING* about some items...
> I'm sure that you benefit from these posts ....this thread became too commercial .


Don't accuse me of being a shill. The most I ever got for free from Nils was some cable management clips, and although Lutro0 has offered me some discount in the past, I haven't yet had the opportunity to take him up on it.

People recommend stuff when they've had a good experience with a product, and when the vendor is helpful and does something for the community.

The first time I saw you post you were misunderstood by kyismaster. That was funny. But the next time you were mad because Adi didn't want to pay $30 shipping for some heatshrink. Next time you quoted me and put a gun emoticon. Just because I suggested someone get ATX pins locally instead of again paying high shipping costs from HK. Now you're mad again because I let someone know that a good crimper is cheapest to get from Nils.

So I have to presume you are the owner of sleeve-modding and you don't like when someone is critical. But why making angry posts? How do you expect to win customers over with an attitude like that? Think of something positive to show why we should consider the SN-28B? Not just making negative comments wildly accusing people that because they have a preference that they must be getting some financial gain.


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Don't accuse me of being a shill. The most I ever got for free from Nils was some cable management clips, and although Lutro0 has offered me some discount in the past, I haven't yet had the opportunity to take him up on it.
> 
> People recommend stuff when they've had a good experience with a product, and when the vendor is helpful and does something for the community.
> 
> The first time I saw you post you were misunderstood by kyismaster. That was funny. But the next time you were mad because Adi didn't want to pay $30 shipping for some heatshrink. Next time you quoted me and put a gun emoticon. Just because I suggested someone get ATX pins locally instead of again paying high shipping costs from HK. Now you're mad again because I let someone know that a good crimper is cheapest to get from Nils.
> 
> So I have to presume you are the owner of sleeve-modding and you don't like when someone is critical. But why making angry posts? How do you expect to win customers over with an attitude like that? Think of something positive to show why we should consider the SN-28B? Not just making negative comments wildly accusing people that because they have a preference that they must be getting some financial gain.


It is more than evident that you 2 need to made hidden advertising and I do no advertising for *anyone*....!


----------



## Big Elf

And you'd better be damn careful about any accusations you direct at me too. I buy all my equipment and sleeving and have used a wide but not exhaustive range. While I may not be the most experienced on here I know a lot about many of the products available and recommend what I personally like.


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> And you'd better be damn careful about any accusations you direct at me too. I buy all my equipment and sleeving and have used a wide but not exhaustive range. While I may not be the most experienced on here I know a lot about many of the products available and recommend what I personally like.


1-I do not put in doubt your experience ! Note please !
2-It seems you 2 act in team. (you can call also the *Family* or Mr Adi )








3-Regarding "be damn careful about







" , that sound to be painful and I'm really really "afraid" ....


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *em ht*
> 
> 1-I do not put in doubt your experience ! Note please !
> 2-It seems you 2 act in team. (you can call also the *Family* or Mr Adi )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3-Regarding "be damn careful about
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> " , that sound to be painful and I'm really really "afraid" ....


People in here are trying to help you and you're being ignorant about it. Do you REALLY believe that NOBODY in this thread has tested the SN-28? Maybe take a look at the Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions Thread. Page 1. Did you think it's some magic crimper u stumbled upon?

People recommend Lutro0-Customs and MDPC-X because they have the best quality products. This is OCN, in the Cable Sleeving Thread. Do you really think that 2 of the main contributors to this thread don't know what they're talking about when it comes to "Sleeving"?

If you don't wanna know the truth, then just don't bring it up. Close your OCN account, order the SN-28, and some random sleeving, and try to figure out why all your pins are getting crushed and you can see your wires through the sleeving.

BigElf and WiSK are not in the sleeving "Business". They (like most people here) have nothing at all to gain from trying to help you out. Either accept good advice or


----------



## lowfat

The SN-28 is indeed crap. Buying one was a mistake. It has sat at the bottom of my tool box for the last 4 years. The crimp quality is awful compared to the MDPC-X one. I can't comment on the Lutro0 one as I've never used it.


----------



## kpoeticg

Here's some better pics of my 24-Pin with the Telios Red Fusion on it. I'm just posting these cuz no1's really posted pics of it yet except for the last crappy pics i posted (which wasn't really fair for to Lutro







). I've gotten slightly better with using my phone for a camera.


----------



## lowfat

Focus is a tad off







. But I guess manual focus likely isn't possible on a smartphone. I definitely thing that red is far superior than the red in your first revision.


----------



## ledzepp3

Evening Gentlemen.

I've just ordered all I need to sleeve my Silverstone Strider ST1000-G (got the supplies from MDPC). I've started to rip off the sleeving and stock heat shrink and I might have just run into a problem. There's capacitors that are in the cables, and I'm not exactly sure about how to handle them. Here's some pictures.




Thanks to all.

-Zepp


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Evening Gentlemen.
> 
> I've just ordered all I need to sleeve my Silverstone Strider ST1000-G (got the supplies from MDPC). I've started to rip off the sleeving and stock heat shrink and I might have just run into a problem. There's capacitors that are in the cables, and I'm not exactly sure about how to handle them. Here's some pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to all.
> 
> -Zepp


I moved mine back a few inches so they are behind the case. Soldered and secured with heat shrink.


----------



## ledzepp3

Is it at all possible to remove them?


----------



## lowfat

Just cut them off.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Just cut them off.


Just making sure, but is that a safe thing to do? And would I just route the cables to the corresponding side on the other connector?

-Zepp


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Focus is a tad off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But I guess manual focus likely isn't possible on a smartphone. I definitely thing that red is far superior than the red in your first revision.


I did say i'm getting "slightly better" emphasis on the underline








I appreciate u pointing that out tho cuz i didn't notice it. That tutorial you linked to from the WC Club had a link to a fashion shoot done with an IPhone 3, but the link was dead so i couldn't see it. I'm definitely on a mission to make my GS3 take good pics tho. Here's my latest Ghetto Photography Studio Setup









The stock camera app on the phone let's you touch the screen where you wanna focus. The Vignette App takes the pic when you touch the screen, but the Vignette lets you change Brightness, Contrast, Saturation, Zoom, & Rotation AFTER you take the pic. Which is helpful. The 2 apps are each half of a good camera app








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Evening Gentlemen.
> 
> I've just ordered all I need to sleeve my Silverstone Strider ST1000-G (got the supplies from MDPC). I've started to rip off the sleeving and stock heat shrink and I might have just run into a problem. There's capacitors that are in the cables, and I'm not exactly sure about how to handle them. Here's some pictures.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to all.
> 
> -Zepp


Most people just cut off the Capacitors

I don't know enough technical facts to state myself whether its safe or not. But the majority of the smarter people in here than me always cut the caps off those cables. So i'm assuming it's safe


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Just making sure, but is that a safe thing to do? And would I just route the cables to the corresponding side on the other connector?
> 
> -Zepp


Yup. I've never used capacitors on any of my Silverstone Strider PSUs. And I have like 6. You can actually also cut off the skinny orange wire from the double wire. It isn't required either.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Yup. I've never used capacitors on any of my Silverstone Strider PSUs. And I have like 6. You can actually also cut off the skinny orange wire from the double wire. It isn't required either.


There's not an orange wire, or a double wire







and if I'm going to run from the 8 pin connector on the PSU to a 6 pin on the graphics card, do I have to have the other two pins on the connector that goes into the PSU? Sorry if it's badly worded









-Zepp


----------



## lowfat

Opps. I should have mentioned the double wire on the 24-pin.

If you aren't going to be using the 2 extra cables for an 8-pin you can definitely remove them. Hopefully that is what you are referring too.


----------



## ledzepp3

I thought the 24 pin on the non-Evolution Strider's were a 1-to-1 pinout?


----------



## Pimphare

Does anybody have experience with sleeving a XFX Pro Series full modular PSU? This is the one I have.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207028&nm_mc=OTC-pr1c3grabb3r&cm_mmc=OTC-pr1c3grabb3r-_-Power+Supplies-_-XFX-_-17207028

I was wondering if all of the double wires are necessary? They really make it a pain to sleeve. I might resleeve it if I can come up with a good method for the double wires. Any insight guys?


----------



## ledzepp3

i suppose they aren't... Mine looks twisted an mangled, but from what I knew before I bought this PSU is that it was a 1-to-1 pinout.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I thought the 24 pin on the non-Evolution Strider's were a 1-to-1 pinout?


1:1 doesn't meant straight. Pin 1 on the psu side goes to pin 1 on the motherboard side. 2 goes to 2 and so on. All except for the one double wire. It is still the easiest and best psu to sleeve IMO.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Does anybody have experience with sleeving a XFX Pro Series full modular PSU? This is the one I have.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207028&nm_mc=OTC-pr1c3grabb3r&cm_mmc=OTC-pr1c3grabb3r-_-Power+Supplies-_-XFX-_-17207028
> 
> I was wondering if all of the double wires are necessary? They really make it a pain to sleeve. I might resleeve it if I can come up with a good method for the double wires. Any insight guys?


The most common method for dealling with double wires is splicing them by soldering. Lutro has a full tutorial video about it. You basically pick a spot somewhat close to the PSU, and solder the 2 wires into one.

The simplest method to deal with dbl wires is using extensions. I'm pretty sure that's the route i'm taking for my PSU. 6 dbl wires and a triple wire


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The most common method for dealling with double wires is splicing them by soldering. Lutro has a full tutorial video about it. You basically pick a spot somewhat close to the PSU, and solder the 2 wires into one.
> 
> The simplest method to deal with dbl wires is using extensions. I'm pretty sure that's the route i'm taking for my PSU. 6 dbl wires and a triple wire


Yeah I wish I went with an extension now.







The issue I have is where the double wires spit at the psu connection side. Do you know where I can find some jumbo heatshrink to fit over all of the wires and over the connecter a bit?

Edit: I just watched this splicing tutorial by Lutro0. This is awesome!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Yeah I wish I went with an extension now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The issue I have is where the double wires spit at the psu connection side. *Do you know where I can find some jumbo heatshrink to fit over all of the wires and over the connecter a bit?*
> 
> Edit: I just watched this splicing tutorial by Lutro0. This is awesome!


What country do u live in? Lutro (USA), MDPC (Germany), DazMode (Canada), Sleeve-Modding (Romania), moddiy (Hong-Kong) all sell large heatshrink. I'm not sure what size you'd need to fit over a 24-Pin. The biggest size Lutro sells is 3/4". Also alot of Audio Resellers carry large (and small) heatshrink

The largest (quality) sleeving i know about is Darkside (DazMode) and MDPC. Dazmode sells a 12" sleeve, and MDPC sellls a basic kit that's meant as a base for sleeving your PSU. It's only sold in black and is only meant to get you started (you buy another color or 2 of sleeving for single wires) the kit comes with Jumbo Sleeving to bundle the middle of your 24Pin. You could also use that around that area if you wanted.

Sorry for the long-ass answer. Just tryin to give u some options








Hope that helps


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> What country do u live in? Lutro (USA), MDPC (Germany), DazMode (Canada), Sleeve-Modding (Romania), moddiy (Hong-Kong) all sell large heatshrink. I'm not sure what size you'd need to fit over a 24-Pin. The biggest size Lutro sells is 3/4". Also alot of Audio Resellers carry large (and small) heatshrink
> 
> The largest (quality) sleeving i know about is Darkside (DazMode) and MDPC. Dazmode sells a 12" sleeve, and MDPC sellls a basic kit that's meant as a base for sleeving your PSU. It's only sold in black and is only meant to get you started (you buy another color or 2 of sleeving for single wires) the kit comes with Jumbo Sleeving to bundle the middle of your 24Pin. You could also use that around that area if you wanted.
> 
> Sorry for the long-ass answer. Just tryin to give u some options
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope that helps


I'm in the USA. You've been very informative. I'll check out Lutro and DazMode. Thank you sir!


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> People in here are trying to help you and you're being ignorant about it. Do you REALLY believe that NOBODY in this thread has tested the SN-28? Maybe take a look at the Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions Thread. Page 1. Did you think it's some magic crimper u stumbled upon?
> 
> People recommend Lutro0-Customs and MDPC-X because they have the best quality products. This is OCN, in the Cable Sleeving Thread. Do you really think that 2 of the main contributors to this thread don't know what they're talking about when it comes to "Sleeving"?
> 
> If you don't wanna know the truth, then just don't bring it up. Close your OCN account, order the SN-28, and some random sleeving, and try to figure out why all your pins are getting crushed and you can see your wires through the sleeving.
> 
> BigElf and WiSK are not in the sleeving "Business". They (like most people here) have nothing at all to gain from trying to help you out. Either accept good advice or


Nice and friendly answer.... you are really Gentleman !

I read it already from about one year, but is not enough to place points of view without practice/test !
So, as I understand "Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions" is the Bible and if anyone doubts on this and his contributors, becomes enemy ! this is one thread for sleeving not Inquisition.


----------



## iamkraine

DROP IT !


----------



## SkitzoPhr3nia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Yeah I wish I went with an extension now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The issue I have is where the double wires spit at the psu connection side. Do you know where I can find some jumbo heatshrink to fit over all of the wires and over the connecter a bit?
> 
> Edit: I just watched this splicing tutorial by Lutro0. This is awesome!


If you are still looking for some bigger heatshrink Harbor Freight sells some containers with various sizes for pretty cheap.


----------



## Lutro0

Woa, seems things got a little rough here lately.

I will say that the FAQ is by no means a definitive FAQ. It is however the result of hours and hours of testing and purchasing of a ton of good and bad tools to narrow down the field. Everything that is in the FAQ I have tested, and still to this day when something new comes up I buy and test it. But most of the time I don't post about it because it would just clutter things up.

I am glad people trust my judgement on tools, but there is of course a ton of other places to buy quality goods.









But this thread is supposed to be helpful for everyone so lets try to keep it that way. Everyone has different tastes and that is what makes this hobby fun.


----------



## kpoeticg

Lutro, I wasn't trying to put you on the spot by saying your FAQ is scripture. Sorry about that.

@em_ht...... i'm not gonna go back and start Multi-Quoting cuz i don't wanna get that deep into it. But speaking as a person who constantly recommends LC to people for no other reason than trying to be helpful, there is nothing "commercial" about recommending places and products when you and every1 you've spoken with have had nothing but great experiences with them. I referenced the FAQ thread because of a comment you made about judging a crimper that hasn't been tested. And don't try put it on me about "friendly answer", you basically came outta nowhere and started trashing this thread and the people in it. I don't know what it is about the words Lutro and MDPC that bug you so much, but you can't expect to read through a thread dedicated to a niche like sleeving and not expect to see the highest recommended resellers in the community mentioned a ton of times.This threads for showing off your work, learning how to sleeve, and sharing what you've learned with people that haven't learned it yet. What tools to use and the best places to get them absolutely fall into that category. A sleeving thread on OCN is about as uncommercial as you can get.

Also, if you are who it seems like you are, i actually like your site. But it makes absolutely no sense to pick fights with people just to defend a crimper that you yourself sell a *modified* version of. If it's such a great crimper then why change anything about it?

/endrant

Sorry guys, just wanted to explain myself. Flaming and fighting on OCN isn't my norm


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkitzoPhr3nia*
> 
> If you are still looking for some bigger heatshrink Harbor Freight sells some containers with various sizes for pretty cheap.


If I do re-sleeve my 24 pin cable, I'll probably use Lutro0's method. Not sure what's in store for the future yet. Thanks for the tip!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> If I do re-sleeve my 24 pin cable, I'll probably use Lutro0's method. Not sure what's in store for the future yet. Thanks for the tip!


IMO, If the area from your PSU --> Components is gonna be visible, it's better to splice the cables. If it's not gonna be visible, it's easier to just shorten the stock PSU cable and make extensions.

I think it was in this thread that some1 was asking about THESE connectors the other day. I came across em this morning b4 i went to sleep when i was browsing around moddiy. I've also seen em on most of the suppliers sites that the Molex site links you to. Just can be tough to find stuff like that sometimes. I know i noticed em when i was looking at different types of Panel Mount & Through Panel connectors to make like a Molex Extension Hub near my mobo (still haven't figured out how to pull it off yet)


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> IMO, If the area from your PSU --> Components is gonna be visible, it's better to splice the cables. If it's not gonna be visible, it's easier to just shorten the stock PSU cable and make extensions.
> 
> I think it was in this thread that some1 was asking about THESE connectors the other day. I came across em this morning b4 i went to sleep when i was browsing around moddiy. I've also seen em on most of the suppliers sites that the Molex site links you to. Just can be tough to find stuff like that sometimes. I know i noticed em when i was looking at different types of Panel Mount & Through Panel connectors to make like a Molex Extension Hub near my mobo (still haven't figured out how to pull it off yet)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a very interesting power supply. I'm either going to make a custom psu cover or splice the double wires. You can't really see the 24 pin wires going into the psu because it plugs in the back underneath the motherboard. It's more of a conscience thing I guess. I want everything to flow nicely.

Here's a pic of my current setup.

I'm in no way a professional photographer nor do I have a good camera.


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm really likin those GPU cables. Nice Job!!!









It's really a personal preference thing, how you wanna deal with the dbl wires. Like i said, in my opinion if it's gonna be hidden, it's easier just to make extensions.
Custom PSU covers are great either way. But if you make a cover and have your 24Pin routed behind the cover -> rear compartment -> mobo, just do whichever's easiest.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm really likin those GPU cables. Nice Job!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's really a personal preference thing, how you wanna deal with the dbl wires. Like i said, in my opinion if it's gonna be hidden, it's easier just to make extensions.
> Custom PSU covers are great either way. But if you make a cover and have your 24Pin routed behind the cover -> rear compartment -> mobo, just do whichever's easiest.


Thank you!







I'll try to get some better pics. This is a temporary setup. I sewed the GPU cables together to make it one. I may redo them and use Mod Smart cable bundlers I have.


----------



## kpoeticg

I'd leave them like that. I was wondering what the hell i was looking at. The sewing explains it









They have a real nice flow like that. It's harder to do that with 4 & 4 than it is with 8


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'd leave them like that. I was wondering what the hell i was looking at. The sewing explains it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They have a real nice flow like that. It's harder to do that with 4 & 4 than it is with 8


Thank you sir!


----------



## kpoeticg

Looks like FrozenCPU started carrying reels of pins. Convenient...


----------



## WiSK

Aren't those ConnectRight ones with short wings?


----------



## kpoeticg

I Think FCPU/ConnectRight ATX pin wings are about the same size as regular Molex. They do sell the "High Wall" pins, but those are def bigger than regular Molex.
It does look like some trickery is goin on in the pics though. Tell me if i'm crazy....

A: 
B: 

Those 2 pics are from the Female ATX Spool. Def look like different pins to me....

I did use the FCPU Female Atx pins b4. But it wuz b4 i placed my first order with Lutro. And Lutro's pins are the only other ones i've used so far.

Also, 2,000 Posts


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

The second one looks like a macro photo, also looks like its wings are longer. Proportions are roughly the same (basing off of the round indents on the sides and the pumpil at the top). Considering these details are difficult to make smaller I’d say the differences in size are within a safe margin. The second one also flattens differently from the first one, so I’d assume these were slightly different manufacturing processes. Can’t say anything about materials because modern day you can make photos look like anything. The first one could be titanium under bad lighting, for all we know.


----------



## kpoeticg

The size is gonna be within the same ATX spec. The Wings are what's important for crimping. That's why i called it "trickery".

That first pic has cheap pins with small wings. The 2nd pic looks right on the money. <== Trickery


----------



## Big Elf

Although pins may look the same even a fractional change in dimensions can make a difference. Phobya make a copy of the ATX pin with a long wing but it doesn't pre-crimp properly as the wings for the wire crimp don't fold over. Also it's very difficult to use the Phobya pins with the Molex manual crimping tool.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Looks like FrozenCPU started carrying reels of pins. Convenient...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's awesome! I like that idea.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Although pins may look the same even a fractional change in dimensions can make a difference. Phobya make a copy of the ATX pin with a long wing but it doesn't pre-crimp properly as the wings for the wire crimp don't fold over. Also it's very difficult to use the Phobya pins with the Molex manual crimping tool.


Didn't know that about the Phobya pins. Thanx for the warning


----------



## spungyplunger

Quick question for you guys ordering from mdpc.. what's the typical delivery time for your orders? I want to order a bunch of sleeves and heatshrink so I can put it all together during the long weekend but I'm afraid if I order today it won't arrive by next friday.. And lutro0 doesn't sell precut heatshrink unfortunately. I'm in Los Angeles.


----------



## lowfat

A week to ten days generally for me.


----------



## Big Elf

I live in the UK so the times for me would be meaningless. However FrozenCPU sell the *Mod/Smart Pre-Cut Heatshrink*.

I've only ever used Mod/Smart's standard lengths rather than pre-cut but in the case of the black and white it's been very good, not up to MDPC-X standard but an acceptable substitute.

I'm not sure what their other colours are like but the blue and red I bought were rubbish as they were both transparent and similar to the AC Ryan crap that's available. The pre-cut version that FrozenCPU sells appears to be on a par with the black/white though for colour consistency.

Edit: Just checked the prices. There's no way that the Mod/Smart should be costlier than MDPC-X. I'd rule it out on price grounds. It's annoying when companies take the p*** with prices.


----------



## kpoeticg

I use one of THESE to cut all my heatshrink. It pretty much works at the speed of repeatedly hitting the top of a stapler. Extremely convenient




Sometimes you gotta mess with the 2 sides of the little sliding jig for a minute or so if you want the cuts to be perfectly even. But once you have the slide where you want it, you can cut as many pieces as you want at the exact same length, extremely fast

Heatshrinks one of those things that you can end up using a TON of. Paying an extra tax for the luxury of not having to spend like a minute and a half cutting the 50 pieces yourself can add up over time.


----------



## lowfat

Everyone should be doing shrinkless sleeving these days. So perfect cut heatshink isn't important.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Everyone should be doing shrinkless sleeving these days. So perfect cut heatshink isn't important.


Agreed. I usually don't take the time to make it perfectly even. If i'm heatsrinking some other random object unrelated to sleeving i do. The FrozenCPU heatshrink cutter is highly recommended by me though. It's small enough to fit in whatever you keep your sleeving stuff in. It probly takes up like a triple slot in an average "Project Box" with multiple compartments


 That's one of the reasons i like it so much


----------



## lowfat

I eyeball pretty much everything. I am so bad when it comes to measuring things.









My modding toolbox is effing huge. So size doesn't matter much.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I eyeball pretty much everything. I am so bad when it comes to measuring things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My modding toolbox is effing huge. So size doesn't matter much.


Awwwww man, i wish i had a modding toolbox. My modding toolbox consists of like 6 or 7 toolboxes, plus my Dremel, Drill, & Jigsaw cases.

 These are 2 of the "Toolboxes" i mentioned. Also a Keter Kantilever Trio is one of em, which isn't technically a toolbox either









It's beyond difficult to keep things organized when i'm workin on stuff. That's why i love when stuff fits in those little compartment boxes


----------



## lowfat

I recently organized all my modding stuff. I use to just keep it in a cardboard box + a huge plastic storage bin. Maybe I'll post some pics in my Forever Alone worklog later on.


----------



## kpoeticg

Looking forward to it =P. A bunch of my "Toolboxes" are new additions. I was storing stuff in FrozenCPU/PerformancePCs boxes and Plastic Bins for a long while too =P

Still got a cpl big FCPU boxes with random stuff in em.

I keep buying storage shelves and Storage Containers and Toolboxes and Tackleboxes, still my apartment has about 5 feet in total where you can see the carpet. I finally got around to cleaning off my Modmat Extreme Table last night, so i can use that as its meant again. It got buried for a long time









You already know the reason i wanted my AntiStatic Mat cleaned off


----------



## iamkraine

I just got a bitfenix alchemy led strip and I was trying to make a custom cable so I could connect it to a splitter pcb. I cut the original wires (2) and crimped onto them fan pins and put them into a 3 pin fan connector. Something didnt work. Anyone know what I did wrong or how to do it correctly?


----------



## kpoeticg

I've never owned an Alchemy Strip, but the specs say it's 12v DC. And if it's 2 wires, that means one is +12v and one is Ground. On a 3Pin fan Connector, Pin 1 is Ground and Pin 2 is +12v. It should be pretty straight forward to change the pins. If you messed up and switched the 12v and Ground with each other, there's a good chance you fried your LED Strip and maybe whatever else was connected to the splitter....

If you did rewire it correctly, just make sure you have a +12v signal going to your splitter and not just 5v

The fan connector should have the pins numbered on either the top or bottom of the connector. Some of them will have 1| 2| 3| others will just have the first pin numbered 1


----------



## iamkraine

How do I know if its 12 or 5v that's going to the pcb splitter? I'm a noob still...


----------



## kpoeticg

How are you powering the PCB? If the splitters being powered with a 4-Pin Molex, Yellow is 12v & Red is 5v


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> How do I know if its 12 or 5v that's going to the pcb splitter? I'm a noob still...



for safer information I need a PCB top side picture


----------



## iamkraine

Here it is:

I used 4 wires because I just copied the pin out from the psu.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Where did you get the black pcb!?


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Where did you get the black pcb!?


Its called the Phobya 4Pin Molex to 6x 3Pin Fan Splitter PCB

$5 from performance-pcs.com
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32022


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Oh okay thanks!


----------



## ledzepp3

I'd skip those Phobya ones and get a ModMyToys splitter PCB. I had one of the Phobya ones, and it wasn't bad, but it wasn't great. I just prefer the ModMyToys ones







They have way more options too.

-Zepp


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Here it is:
> 
> I used 4 wires because I just copied the pin out from the psu.


Those Phobya splitters only split the 12V and the first ground. The 3rd fan pins are just dummies. The 2nd ground and the 5V on the molex socket go nowhere.

What I do is use two of them: one for splitting 12V; on the second I exchange the red (5V) and yellow (12V) wires to make a 5V splitter.


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Here it is:
> 
> I used 4 wires because I just copied the pin out from the psu.



this must be the standard;
if is only PCB LED Wisk have right about the 5V (is dummie)
on the led side you must remove the heatshrink/cover and you will see + and - under led strip cover-gel , after you identify this you can do your cable.
To be 100% sure it is better to measure the voltage on PCB (all pin) after you alim the PCB with the power supply....








If you need I suppose you can insert one switch-for led with some PCB-light changes.
BTW - noob I was too....it is no shame.


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *em ht*
> 
> 
> this must be the standard;
> if is only PCB LED Wisk have right about the 5V (is dummie)
> on the led side you must remove the heatshrink/cover and you will see + and - under led strip cover-gel , after you identify this you can do your cable.
> To be 100% sure it is better to measure the voltage on PCB (all pin) after you alim the PCB with the power supply....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW - noob I was too....it is no shame.


Wow thank you for the detailed diagram








Does that mean that I only need 2 wires (12v and ground) for my fan extensions?


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Wow thank you for the detailed diagram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does that mean that I only need 2 wires (12v and ground) for my fan extensions?


The diagram is for Led extensions ! Note this.
For Fan ext you can use it but you will have ONLY Full speed/power on Fan !


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Wow thank you for the detailed diagram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does that mean that I only need 2 wires (12v and ground) for my fan extensions?


Here you have one diagram/(light change on PCB) to insert the switch, with this you can switch on/off the led strip.
you need to interrupt / cut some circuits on PCB back-side (5 volt , will be 12V) in fact is to jump/bridge from 12 V to 5V .


----------



## kpoeticg

A simpler solution would be to grab one of THESE 

Already designed as an LED Splitter

Also there's a bunch of good LED Power Panels on THIS page. Not sure about the compatibility with LED Strips on all the other ones though


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> A simpler solution would be to grab one of THESE
> 
> Already designed as an LED Splitter
> 
> Also there's a bunch of good LED Power Panels on THIS page. Not sure about the compatibility with LED Strips on all the other ones though


True !
But he have the PCB on hand......
On 2 pin connectors can not interfere one switch....(perhaps he have it already on to the front panel)


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *em ht*
> 
> Here you have one diagram/(light change on PCB) to insert the switch, with this you can switch on/off the led strip.
> you need to interrupt / cut some circuits on PCB back-side (5 volt , will be 12V) in fact is to jump/bridge from 12 V to 5V .


Does this mean I can wire a switch to a 3 pin connector?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> A simpler solution would be to grab one of THESE
> 
> Already designed as an LED Splitter
> 
> Also there's a bunch of good LED Power Panels on THIS page. Not sure about the compatibility with LED Strips on all the other ones though


I don't want to go overboard with pcbs cause I'm building in an itx case and I want it as clean as possible. Also, I'm only using 1 led strip or maybe 2 but they'll be connected to one another.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *em ht*
> 
> True !
> But he have the PCB on hand......
> On 2 pin connectors can not interfere one switch....(perhaps he have it already on to the front panel)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Does this mean I can wire a switch to a 3 pin connector?
> I don't want to go overboard with pcbs cause I'm building in an itx case and I want it as clean as possible. Also, I'm only using 1 led strip or maybe 2 but they'll be connected to one another.


Yeah, it's always better to make use of the stuff you already have. That definitely makes you in the top 5% of smart people on OCN







To wire a switch to something, you should just have to put the switch in between the Ground for the LED strip and whatever you're powering it from.


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Does this mean I can wire a switch to a 3 pin connector?
> I don't want to go overboard with pcbs cause I'm building in an itx case and I want it as clean as possible. Also, I'm only using 1 led strip or maybe 2 but they'll be connected to one another.


In theory no problem - you can.....
kpoeticg give you the 2 pin PCB as example....you can find shorter; or you can build your own PCB from scratch.
In fact you can use 2 pin PCB for led (without switch) or 3 pin with switch just behind the PCB power connector,
but be aware at cable build (mean the pin connection). The best way is to check at final once again with one voltmeter.


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> To wire a switch to something, you should just have to put the switch in between the Ground for the LED strip and whatever you're powering it from.


Placing the switch on ground wire is even better.


----------



## Teplous

Before i sleeved

and after





This is my first sleeve job, except for that all blue extension (I will re-sleeve it later)


----------



## eskamobob1

whats with all the caps on the cables? and what gen is that build? it reminds me of the some of old 775 and 478 builds... i like it


----------



## Teplous

The caps came with the power supply, OCZ does that with their cables. I read a lot of mixed reviews on losing or keeping the caps, so i opted to take the safe route and keep them. I don't quite understand what you mean by what gen. , but i just built this a few months ago and have been tinkering with it since. It has the new 4th gen i7 with the Haswell bridge


----------



## spungyplunger

I'm going to be sleeving an OCZ ZT 650w fully modular psu soon and I was wondering why it's okay to cut off the capacitors? When you guys say cut off do you mean cut them and leave them off completely? I tried to research more about this but according to this thread I shouldn't be cutting them off

I did read lutro0 state that as long as i'm not loading the PSU to the max I should be fine, I'll be using ~450W would that be okay?


----------



## Teplous

I'm not sure if it would be ok to cut and completely leave them off. from what I've read the caps reduce spike and keep your voltage stable. some say it would be fine to leave them off, but others say you should keep them because components might not be as stable or efficient.
I opted to keep them since I overclock and need as much stability as i can get, however I use nowhere near 1250W.
It's ultimately your choice. However, you could try leaving them off and if you notice anything bad, just reattach them later.
I'm no professional but theres my 2cents


----------



## lowfat

I don't use OCZ power supplies but I have cut off the capacitors on every Silverstone PSU cable I have used. I have a 50% overclock on my GTX780 and I do not have stability issues w/ the card.


----------



## Teplous

Yes, however OCZ also has caps on the 20+4 pin ATX cable, from what i understand cutting the caps off the PCIe cables isn't so bad, but there's still a lot of debate over OCZ's ATX cable. so its really up to the modder, but my recommendation would be if your going to O.C. your CPU and RAM don't cut them, but that's just my opinion. And like I said I'm no Pro.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I don't use OCZ power supplies but I have cut off the capacitors on every Silverstone PSU cable I have used. I have a 50% overclock on my GTX780 and I do not have stability issues w/ the card.


Coming back to this, what are the capacitors put in there for anyways?









-Zepp


----------



## WiSK

I believe caps are there mostly to improve scores on reviews that put an emphasis on voltage ripple


----------



## kpoeticg

Here's a cpl closeups of my 24 Pin taken with a decent camera. You can see how tight the Telios Red Fusion looks a lot better than my phone pics. I also found out the pics i've been posting have been wayyyy oversized when other people click on em so i shrunk these down to a better size. I know the lighting could be better, i'm gonna buy some lighting off ebay but for now i gotta make due


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Here's a cpl closeups of my 24 Pin taken with a decent camera. You can see how tight the Telios Red Fusion looks a lot better than my phone pics. I also found out the pics i've been posting have been wayyyy oversized when other people click on em so i shrunk these down to a better size. I know the lighting could be better, i'm gonna buy some lighting off ebay but for now i gotta make due
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nicely done sir!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Here's a cpl closeups of my 24 Pin taken with a decent camera. You can see how tight the Telios Red Fusion looks a lot better than my phone pics. I also found out the pics i've been posting have been wayyyy oversized when other people click on em so i shrunk these down to a better size. I know the lighting could be better, i'm gonna buy some lighting off ebay but for now i gotta make due


To photograph sleeving try laying it out flat. Below the plain of a window. Camera facing the window. Look at the sleeving at different angles till you see the light catch the sleeving. Place the camera there and try focusing on different parts of the cable. Low ISO, high aperture, longer exposure. Capturing the reflection is the most important thing, especially on darker sleeving IMO. Notice how all the sleeving looks shiny in my pics.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4066-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Sleeving/20130508-_MG_3402_zps8cee8ad0.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_3982-1.jpg.html

EDIT: I'm glad you are resizing your pics now.


----------



## kpoeticg

The laying flat part might be a problem. I kinda cheated to give it that U-Shape and made it 1/2" shorter on the Under-Side and 1/4" shorter on all the outer cables








I thought u were saying yesterday to make the exposure short, that's why i was having so much trouble getting it balanced at ISO200







I'll get the hang of this eventually


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Hey question, anyone know where to get male and female connectors for this...



Im planning on hiding my NZXT Sleeved LED Cable PCB on the back of my case, the problem I have is the light cable that goes into that connector doesnt reach so I wanna make a nice extension cable for it









Thanks


----------



## kpoeticg

*edit*
NVM
I actually have an old NZXT Led Strip and it's not dupont


----------



## ledzepp3

I'm sure this has been asked a lot before, but what gauge wire should I use for(?):


PCI cables
24 pin ATX
CPU power connector
Thanks









-Zepp


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I'm sure this has been asked a lot before, but what gauge wire should I use for(?):
> 
> 
> PCI cables
> 24 pin ATX
> CPU power connector
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


18AWG is sufficient (or 24/0.2 the metric equivalent).


----------



## kpoeticg

18's the most popular with sleeving for ATX connectors. You could also use 16 if you wanted a thicker wire to hold its shape better. It can be a PITA crimping tho.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I'm sure this has been asked a lot before, but what gauge wire should I use for(?):
> 
> 
> PCI cables
> 24 pin ATX
> CPU power connector
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


There is a ton of wire out there that can be used.

18awg is perfect for any wire in your comp - however you need to make sure it is less than 2.3mm in diameter. The one downside of 18awg is most is way below the 2.3mm so although its easy to sleeve with (and needed for heatshrink style) it makes it a bit harder to train your wires.

16awg is awesome for training your cables and it gives your cables a nice full look. However crimping wire that is 2.3mm or larger is more labor intensive and most crimpers cant handle it unless they are milled for the higher awg. ( The Lutro0 Custom Crimper is a good example of this)

However if you can find a 16awg wire that has a thinner diameter then you get the best of worlds. http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lccustom16awgwire25ft

But wire can indeed be found in many places.


----------



## ledzepp3

Has anyone had experience using the MDPC crimper on 16AWG wire? I'm also assuming that it'd work fine on a setup with heat shrink.

If you can't already tell, I'm a bit of a n00b










-Zepp


----------



## lowfat

I can't say I have any problems training 18AWG wires. You just need to make sure you have the weave as tight as possible, at least w/ PET. I could hot an 18" 18AWG sleeved wire straight up and it wouldn't fall over. With paracord the 16AWG might be more important.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Has anyone had experience using the MDPC crimper on 16AWG wire? I'm also assuming that it'd work fine on a setup with heat shrink.
> 
> If you can't already tell, I'm a bit of a n00b
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp


I believe its advertised that it can be used with wire diameter up to 2.3mm, however most people have found that when you are using wire that is close to the max diameter that it will sheer off one of the stress relief "wings"

But my shop carries a replacement die that alot of people prefer due to the ability to crimp 4-pin round molex terminals.

As for heashrink style - as long as you use a thin diameter 18awg it will work perfectly with no issues at all. I always suggest using a thin diameter when doing heatshrink method work due to the leaps and bounds in ease when using the right wire. Otherwise it can turn into a nightmare.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I can't say I have any problems training 18AWG wires. You just need to make sure you have the weave as tight as possible, at least w/ PET. I could hot an 18" 18AWG sleeved wire straight up and it wouldn't fall over. With paracord the 16AWG might be more important.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I can't say I have any problems training 18AWG wires. You just need to make sure you have the weave as tight as possible, at least w/ PET. I could hot an 18" 18AWG sleeved wire straight up and it wouldn't fall over. With paracord the 16AWG might be more important.


You would be correct sir, it can be overcome if you stretch it to its limit, but that is a factor you learn after sleeving for a little bit. Basically 16awg lets those that are new to sleeving have a little forgiveness when training their cables.

And absolutely about the paracord, to a certain point I can get the paracord stretched so that it will stand up as well - however this puts a great deal of stress on either the melt points or heatshrink.

I would say in the end, at least IMO, I prefer the fuller look of 16awg cables as it fills up the connector nicely. But this can all be had with a thicker insulation on the 18awg wire such as coleman cable.


----------



## longroadtrip

18 AWG wire...









http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/l...Labs Mercury S3/IMG_5068_zpsae76a7b4.jpg.html

Although 16 AWG does look good...


----------



## lowfat

Exactly what I am talking about.


----------



## kpoeticg

It looks like it's dancing















"Start spreadin the news......."

Or maybe my nephew just make me watch too much cartoons lately.....


----------



## Furion92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> But my shop carries a replacement die that alot of people prefer due to the ability to crimp 4-pin round molex terminals.


I've heard this quite a few times and I can't really agree with the statement. I've used the MDPC-X crimper for 4pin peripheral crimps in the past and never had a problem with it.
Why shouldn't this be possible?


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> But my shop carries a replacement die that alot of people prefer due to the ability to crimp 4-pin round molex terminals.
> 
> 
> 
> I've heard this quite a few times and I can't really agree with the statement. I've used the MDPC-X crimper for 4pin peripheral crimps in the past and never had a problem with it.
> Why shouldn't this be possible?
Click to expand...

It comes from Nils who has stated:

'...Do NOT use my crimper with the "fat-4-pin" crimps (often falsely called "molex pins"), because their thick metal and short wings are not made for a twirl crimp, as my crimper does. These old-school "fat-4-pin" crimps could theoretically damage the crimper, therefore I do not recommend it at all...'

I know Lutro0 has said previously that he's used the MDPC-X crimper for the peripheral pins without damage but I suppose it takes crimping a lot of pins to potentially do so. I use my MDPC-X crimper for crimping 'Molex' pins now although I didn't use to.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> I've heard this quite a few times and I can't really agree with the statement. I've used the MDPC-X crimper for 4pin peripheral crimps in the past and never had a problem with it.
> Why shouldn't this be possible?


I was just stating what others have said and Nils himself (He has recently changed his wording on his Crimper page) - I personally always used the MDPC Crimper for the 4pins - - however Nils suggests not to on his site because it may wear out the die.

And after doing as many cables as I have, it did indeed wear the die down (then again I do allot more then most people) not to the point of not being able to be used but a noticeable wear.

So when I milled mine I made sure it could handle the 4pin round terminals a little easier without wearing on the die.

Bottom point is that both are awesome crimpers - the only difference being I mill mine to handle thick 16awg / 4pin round terminals a bit better.


----------



## WiSK

I tend to fold those old molex pins with pliers first, then do 4 clicks of crimper to give it strength.


----------



## Furion92

I see what you mean and I read the note from Nils as I bought mine, but as far as I know you both sell the same model made of the same materials. Even after you milled the die, it is still a "twirl crimp", as Nils has put it. So it will wear down, too... probably slower









I just wanted to clear this up, that it IS possible to crimp the 4pin peripheral crimps with the MDPC-X crimper.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> I see what you mean and I read the note from Nils as I bought mine, but as far as I know you both sell the same model made of the same materials. Even after you milled the die, it is still a "twirl crimp", as Nils has put it. So it will wear down, too... probably slower
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just wanted to clear this up, that it IS possible to crimp the 4pin peripheral crimps with the MDPC-X crimper.


Yup totally possible.

When we were honing the milling process for the crimpers we tested one of ours (LC Crimper) on about 500+ 4pin round crimps and have used the same one for all of our future terminals of the same sort (which is about 300-400 more) and it has yet to show signs of wear - however it still might eventually - but that ammount is way more then most people will use theirs for in a lifetime.







But it did give me some weird crimper callouses haha


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Hey question, anyone know where to get male and female connectors for this...
> 
> 
> 
> Im planning on hiding my NZXT Sleeved LED Cable PCB on the back of my case, the problem I have is the light cable that goes into that connector doesnt reach so I wanna make a nice extension cable for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


I didn't realize til last night when i had to fix my soldering station that had the same connector. That's the same connector/pins that cathodes use. Not sure what Molex Series they are, but FCPU sells em as cathode pins & connectors


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I didn't realize til last night when i had to fix my soldering station that had the same connector. That's the same connector/pins that cathodes use. Not sure what Molex Series they are, but FCPU sells em as cathode pins & connectors










Thanks, was almost ready to give up hope, couldnt find these connectors anywhere


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*


Life saver









Also question @Lutro0 when you getting your crimpers back in stock?







hanging out to buy one


----------



## MNModder

^ This I'm waiting as well checking every day


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Life saver
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also question @Lutro0 when you getting your crimpers back in stock?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hanging out to buy one


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNModder*
> 
> ^ This I'm waiting as well checking every day


We should be getting a small shipment here soon and then a larger one. I am streamlining our milling process to make this go fast and more accurate which saves time and money on the crimper.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

First time making custom wires and using Teleios








Half an eight pin in black, dark grey and yellow Teleios sleeving:


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> First time making custom wires and using Teleios
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Half an eight pin in black, dark grey and yellow Teleios sleeving:


Awesome pics, What are your thoughts?


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Awesome pics, What are your thoughts?


its amazing, nothing like anything that I have worked with before, and really easy to train









Just need my review sample to arrive


----------



## Gardnerphotos

My crimped cables arent going into the connector fully. They sort of wedge in but can be pulled out again pretty easily. I have followed Lutro0's shrinkless guide and not covered past any of the crimps but I cant seem to get it in the last bit, when I push hard the wire just bends, the pins are probably 2-3mm from the top of the connector?


----------



## WiSK

I know you're good with a camera, let's see a macro of a pin that won't go in









Also, are the connectors from Mike or are they from the PSU stock connectors? Or are they modsmart or connectx or something?


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I know you're good with a camera, let's see a macro of a pin that won't go in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, are the connectors from Mike or are they from the PSU stock connectors? Or are they modsmart or connectx or something?


Theyre from Mike, but its all good I somehow managed to put in every single pin in the 8 pin in upside down so they wouldnt click in fully, now they do


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Theyre from Mike, but its all good I somehow managed to put in every single pin in the 8 pin in upside down so they wouldnt click in fully, now they do


Haha that's happened to me before as well









Glad you figured it out


----------



## lowfat

Did someone say macro?









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Sleeving/export-81.jpg.html


----------



## WiSK

Very clean!


----------



## jleslie246

Looks edible


----------



## M00NIE

Posted a while back since it was my first time sleeving, so thanks for the help and here's the result:



Far from perfect but way better then i thought i could do.


----------



## jleslie246

What are you using on your mb harness to keep them flat/in line? Looks like a black thread?


----------



## M00NIE

Yea just some thread, thanks to alpenwasser for the guide: http://www.overclock.net/t/1406132/cable-lacing-tutorial-a-k-a-cable-stitching-cable-sewing


----------



## lowfat

Finished off the 24-pin for my ESXI box.
http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-96.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-100.jpg.html


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Finished off the 24-pin for my ESXI box.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-96.jpg.html


That color scheme is just plain dirty (in a good way). I didn't think the classic green PCB could look so good.









Could anyone give me some good color scheme ideas for my new project? I've been debating this constantly for literally over a month now and cannot decide on a good pattern for the sleeving. I'll probably do either MDPC or Lutro0 Telios, depending on what shades look best.

I'll be using a LD PC-V8 case with this board in white, so almost all of the case is white.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> That color scheme is just plain dirty (in a good way). I didn't think the classic green PCB could look so good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could anyone give me some good color scheme ideas for my new project? I've been debating this constantly for literally over a month now and cannot decide on a good pattern for the sleeving. I'll probably do either MDPC or Lutro0 Telios, depending on what shades look best.
> 
> I'll be using a LD PC-V8 case with this board in white, so almost all of the case is white.


Thanks.

What do you mean by 'board in white'? Are you painting the board? If you are leaving the board as is. White + MDPC-X grand bleu would be my choice. Like this.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Sleeving/20130514-_MG_3405.jpg.html


----------



## szeged

just got done with some cpu cables and pci-e cables for my buildlog, results so far -


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



















next up 24 pin and fan cables


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> What do you mean by 'board in white'? Are you painting the board? If you are leaving the board as is. White + MDPC-X grand bleu would be my choice. Like this.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Sleeving/20130514-_MG_3405.jpg.html


Sorry I meant that my LD case was the full white, not the full black. The board is staying as it is.


----------



## mav2000

You can remove the capacitors on the cables, or if you are ok with a soldering job, move them out of the way


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Sorry I meant that my LD case was the full white, not the full black. The board is staying as it is.


Have you decided on a coolant colour? I would defintely go w/ grand bleu + white if I were to do a rig like that.

Bunch of sleeved SATA cables I did last night.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Sleeving/export-102.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Sleeving/export-101.jpg.html


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Have you decided on a coolant colour? I would defintely go w/ grand bleu + white if I were to do a rig like that.


I haven't no. I was thinking of a blue color, but I was going to let the sleeving decide the coolant color.

Beautiful macros by the way


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Today I managed to laser cut some bits and bobs to aid with cable management, including combs for 8 and 24 pin cables, both CPU and graphics card 8 pins. For each cable I made three different styles, one with individual holes (probably going to be used where the 8 pin and 24 pin pass under the motherboard to stop them from going skew) as well as an open frame style with little teeth, this will keep the whole lot bundled together nicely, and finally the 'combs' which slot between the two layers of the cable, these are the least 'permanent' as the cables can easily be popped in and out of them.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

These combs are royal! I would buy some.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> These combs are royal! I would buy some.


Thanks, both Nate (E22) and Mike (Lutro0 customs) will be selling their own version, which should be on sale later this week


----------



## lowfat

They should sell threaded ones that can be screwed down to the motherboard tray IMO.


----------



## kpoeticg

Finally, a perfect solution!!! Great work


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> They should sell threaded ones that can be screwed down to the motherboard tray IMO.


Nice idea but they're really not big enough, they're only 3mm thick so it would require either thicker combs or tiny screws lol


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Nice idea but they're really not big enough, they're only 3mm thick so it would require either thicker combs or tiny screws lol


The ones Dwood use to sell where all wires went in on one side of the comb. It had a flat base on the otherside. You would be able to tap m3 holes in to them I would think. Combs that could be mounted to the motherboard tray would IMHO be the ultimate cable management accessory.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M00NIE*
> 
> Posted a while back since it was my first time sleeving, so thanks for the help and here's the result:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Far from perfect but way better then i thought i could do.


Looks damn good to me sir!


----------



## MillerLite1314

So having some problems with my 24 pin. Anyone else have trouble removing their pins? I'm nervous about snapping one off inside. I'm usimg lutro0's pin removal tool


----------



## kpoeticg

Sometimes ATX Pins get stuck. Just make sure to pull the wire up straight and try to push the pin forward toward the tools prongs to make they're seated outside the pin on the tabs. Then just pull. Sometimes you gotta go as far as wrapping the wire around your finger and yanking as hard as you can. Make sure you have the prongs placed right before u do that. And if the wire rips out of the pin, it was just stuck and there was probly nothing you could do about it. It happens....


----------



## MillerLite1314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Sometimes ATX Pins get stuck. Just make sure to pull the wire up straight and try to push the pin forward toward the tools prongs to make they're seated outside the pin on the tabs. Then just pull. Sometimes you gotta go as far as wrapping the wire around your finger and yanking as hard as you can. Make sure you have the prongs placed right before u do that. And if the wire rips out of the pin, it was just stuck and there was probly nothing you could do about it. It happens....


Fair enough. Thanks


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerLite1314*
> 
> So having some problems with my 24 pin. Anyone else have trouble removing their pins? I'm nervous about snapping one off inside. I'm usimg lutro0's pin removal tool


About half my pins do that in EVGA 1300 G2, I just remove the atx tool, push the pin into the connector (the opposite way from pulling it out), then put the tool back in, making sure the prongs are outside the pin itself (and inside the nest), and push the tool and the pin towards each other. Then I push the prongs on the sides, and then pull on the wire. I'm almost done with the motherboard cable, and not a pin damaged, although some were really hard to put back in, but I'll tell all about it later, when I finish it (maybe tomorrow).


----------



## lowfat

Push the pin out from the front of the connector. Don't pull in the wire. Use a 1.5 hex screwdriver or something similar sized.


----------



## spungyplunger

Im trying to remove the molex pins using the tool, i hear a click, the wire becomes loose, but it won't come out. I've been wrapping the wire around my finger and yanking on it with significant force but it's stuck in the connector. I've got a ocz zt psu if that matters


----------



## kpoeticg

If you hear the click and the wire becomes loose, the pins most definitely stuck.
You could definitely try what lowfat suggested and push the pin out with something small like a hex screwdriver while the wires loose. Depending how stuck it is, it might pop right out.


----------



## MillerLite1314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> About half my pins do that in EVGA 1300 G2, I just remove the atx tool, push the pin into the connector (the opposite way from pulling it out), then put the tool back in, making sure the prongs are outside the pin itself (and inside the nest), and push the tool and the pin towards each other. Then I push the prongs on the sides, and then pull on the wire. I'm almost done with the motherboard cable, and not a pin damaged, although some were really hard to put back in, but I'll tell all about it later, when I finish it (maybe tomorrow).


Worked out good. I wound up having to fiddle with a few of them a few times but all came out and I finished the 24 pin tonight. Fans will be next once I get some new ones in along with the rest of my cables.


----------



## spungyplunger

woops I actually meant the 4 pin cables are getting stuck. The one that takes the round tool to remove. I was able to force one out but the tab got bent backwards and now looks like a fish hook


----------



## kpoeticg

Hrmmm never had a fat 4Pin get stuck before. You can usually straighten the tabs back with an exacto knife or when it's really bent like yours an exacto knife + needle nose pliers


----------



## pexon

Some recent work, an XFX Pro power supply, same as the AX Corsair units, so horrible pinouts and double wires'a'plenty!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*
> 
> Some recent work, an XFX Pro power supply, same as the AX Corsair units, so horrible pinouts and double wires'a'plenty!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice work! I need to re-sleeve my XFX Pro psu. I didn't do the spliced wire method so it's mediocre right now.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Question: I have Evga 1300 g2 on my hands, and it has four sata cables with three connectors each. How can I find out how many drives can each cable handle? My drives are in Corsair 900D, I’m using the three-drive hot swap cage, a three-drive cage, two drive brackets for 5.25, and two SSD mounted on sticky velcro behind MB tray. Would it be safe to put the three-drive hots swap cage on the same cable with two ssd drives? I mean it would be five drives on the cable that originally supported three drives… do the different cables have separate rails or draw from the same source?


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Question: I have Evga 1300 g2 on my hands, and it has four sata cables with three connectors each. How can I find out how many drives can each cable handle? My drives are in Corsair 900D, I'm using the three-drive hot swap cage, a three-drive cage, two drive brackets for 5.25, and two SSD mounted on sticky velcro behind MB tray. Would it be safe to put the three-drive hots swap cage on the same cable with two ssd drives? I mean it would be five drives on the cable that originally supported three drives&#8230; do the different cables have separate rails or draw from the same source?


you should be fine, drives don't pull that much power.
but i'm no expert, so that's my unprofessional opinion.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> If you hear the click and the wire becomes loose, the pins most definitely stuck.
> You could definitely try what lowfat suggested and push the pin out with something small like a hex screwdriver while the wires loose. Depending how stuck it is, it might pop right out.


If you are using staples (like you should be), you can use the staples and the hex driver at the same time. You should never get stuck pins this way.


----------



## iamkraine

lowfat, you are like a pro sleever. I cant believe you are still using staples.


----------



## kpoeticg

I use the original molex tool, never tried staples


----------



## iamkraine

Yeah, the first things I got were a molex pin remover and Crimper from MDPC


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> lowfat, you are like a pro sleever. I cant believe you are still using staples.


That's nothing - he crimps with his teeth; each molar does a different AWG.


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> That's nothing - he crimps with his teeth; each molar does a different AWG.


LOL thats the ultimate level of sleeving ability


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> lowfat, you are like a pro sleever. I cant believe you are still using staples.


I actually use heavy duty staples that I have filed down. With a piece of wire insulation over the 'handles'. It takes me like 5 seconds max to pull a crimp from a connector. They also never ever break. The wire insulation helps me find them if I drop them on the floor, which I do very often.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> That's nothing - he crimps with his teeth; each molar does a different AWG.


----------



## ozzy1925

i am beginner and wanted to order sleeving parts for this:

i send mdpc an email and Nils told me its very hard for a beginner.I need to take all connectors off .
What should i do?


----------



## WebsterXC

Shouldn't be too bad. You wont be able to sleeve the USB 3.0 connector with Nils' sleeving but everything else is fair game. You'll want the SATA sleeve for the internal USB 2.0 connectors and his small sleeve for the I/O connectors. You won't need to take off the connectors either as his sleeve expands enough to fit over the respective connectors.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i am beginner and wanted to order sleeving parts for this:
> 
> i send mdpc an email and Nils told me its very hard for a beginner.I need to take all connectors off .
> What should i do?


make a chart for each cable of which cable goes into which slot on the connectors, then take them out and sleeve them, maybe mark the ends with a marker to keep track of which slot they go in so you dont get them mixed up. After that it just takes hours and hours









this is what i do when i do 24pin motherboard cables.


----------



## ozzy1925

thanks for the info and i watched this video and it doesnt look very hard for me




but here what Nils said:
Very complicated work, because you need to take the connectors off.
>> If you have never modified cables or sleeved, this is the hardest start. Do
>> not do it, if you never sleeved.

Even fan connectors you take off when you sleeve fans.
I recommend to you to not do it with your front-panel cables, because you needs lots of experience to do a good job.
Do not sleeve it as a beginner.
I think i should listen to him


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks for the info and i watched this video and it doesnt look very hard for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but here what Nils said:
> Very complicated work, because you need to take the connectors off.
> >> If you have never modified cables or sleeved, this is the hardest start. Do
> >> not do it, if you never sleeved.
> 
> Even fan connectors you take off when you sleeve fans.
> I recommend to you to not do it with your front-panel cables, because you needs lots of experience to do a good job.
> Do not sleeve it as a beginner.
> I think i should listen to him


when i sleeved my first fan cables i didnt know what the hell i was doing, but i just dove right into it because honestly the worst that could happen was i had to cut the sleeve off and try again, i ended up doing just fine







its not that bad really.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Here's story of one mean cable.
EVGA 1300 G2 is one screwed up piece of work complete with caps, double wires, and the weirdest pinout ever. Why on earth would someone split the 24pin into two is beyond me, but fact is fact, where one 24 pin connector goes into motherboard, two (totalling 28 pins) go into the power supply. Wires jump all over the place.

When I took the original sparse plastic mesh sleeving, I found a tangled cable. I had black paracord ready, so I grabbed my knife (Sandvik steel, for those who do not know steels, think shaving razor in knife form factor), a pair of needle nosers, some pins, an all-purpose crimping tool, a piece of wood to serve as cutting board, and the ATX pin tool. Here is the process:



I was aware of popular methods to deal with doubled up wires, but thought I might get a better result melting the sleeves together on the split. Bad idea:



This begs to be redone, so I guess when I finish the rest of the PSU, I'll be coming back to that bastard. I could not get a consistent melt, and ended up unable to push heatshring over the doubled up wires to the same length. Ghetto-style.

Do NOT try to remove terminal from doubled up wires and recrimp them back with the same terminal or a new one. It's a complete disaster. Cut the wires, strip them, crimp with new terminal (even doubled up they are easy to crimp, but putting crimp back without cutting off the "used" ends is just a totally bad experience).



The other side turned out great, though. Had some trouble pushing wires back into sockets, but okay.



Cthulhu cable eat your brain!



I'll guess I'll have to split them wires just like everyone else somewhere behind the case.

@ozzy1925
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i am beginner and wanted to order sleeving parts for this:
> 
> i send mdpc an email and Nils told me its very hard for a beginner.I need to take all connectors off .
> What should i do?


The only difficult thing about 900D is that all wires are black. You can pull out one wire at a time and sleeve it. This way you will never lose the pinout and will not need to chart it in the first place.


----------



## steelpenguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Here's story of one mean cable.
> EVGA 1300 G2 is one screwed up piece of work complete with caps, double wires, and the weirdest pinout ever. Why on earth would someone split the 24pin into two is beyond me, but fact is fact, where one 24 pin connector goes into motherboard, two (totalling 28 pins) go into the power supply. Wires jump all over the place.


I'm in the same boat with a 1000 G2 I want to sleeve. Has that same ridiculous split 24 pin on the PSU side. I'm considering just shortening the whole cable to a 4"-ish length then making an extension all the way to the MB. That or relocating the caps to the PSU side of the connector so they're a little less visible. PCIE cables are the same deal with that annoying cap at the end. Does the 1300 have them too?

Seems like this is gonna be a trip of a project...


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelpenguin*
> 
> ...I'm considering just shortening the whole cable to a 4"-ish length then making an extension all the way to the MB...


A few of us do that. It makes sense as you can hide all the twists, turns and splices behind the motherboard and have the nice neat lined up extension in view. 4" might be pushing it though if slevved with MDPC as it gets hard to bend. I generally do mine 140-150mm (5.5"-6").


----------



## spungyplunger

Any tips for doing heatshrinkless molex connectors? Specifically the one that has 2 wires going into the same hole


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelpenguin*
> 
> I'm in the same boat with a 1000 G2 I want to sleeve. Has that same ridiculous split 24 pin on the PSU side. I'm considering just shortening the whole cable to a 4"-ish length then making an extension all the way to the MB. That or relocating the caps to the PSU side of the connector so they're a little less visible. PCIE cables are the same deal with that annoying cap at the end. Does the 1300 have them too?
> 
> Seems like this is gonna be a trip of a project...


Yes, the PCIE has that cap. Only the peripheral and sata cables do not have it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spungyplunger*
> 
> Any tips for doing heatshrinkless molex connectors? Specifically the one that has 2 wires going into the same hole


This: 




Tried not doing it. Didn't work. So&#8230; do that. It's the same for molex/atx/sata. Just splice your cable somewhere it cannot be seen, put heatshrink there, and be done with it. I would regret not doing it if I didn't know I'd regret not trying another way out.


----------



## szeged

got my 24 pin done for my build log, this one was a massive PITA for some reason, almost every pin was stuck in the connector, i broke a few of them out of rage, but got everything sorted out in the end.


----------



## HeyBear

Hi guys







,

Planning on sleeving my upcoming build and I was hoping you might help me before I pull the trigger on any orders.

  

I'll be using the above components and watercooling everything, probably with copper aquacomputer blocks (4770K and two 780ti's). It will all be going in to a 900D. Do you think a sleeving scheme like the one I mocked up below would look alright? Any suggestions welcome.



Can anyone give me a general idea of how much sleeving it will take to sleeve everything in the 900D also? I know I can get an estimate from my powersupply leads, but I'm not sure they will be sufficient to reach everything (planning on making my own cables so that's fine).

With regards to the cables, is it better to split the run with an extension to make it neater at the motherboard or is it generally better to just try for one long run to make grouping cables for management easier behind the motherboard tray (if that makes sense)? PSU will be a Cooler Master v1000 if that makes any difference.

One last question, i'm currently on the fence between Teleios and MDPC sleeving. Any reason to go with either considering this will be my first time sleeving?


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,
> 
> Planning on sleeving my upcoming build and I was hoping you might help me before I pull the trigger on any orders.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be using the above components and watercooling everything, probably with copper aquacomputer blocks (4770K and two 780ti's). It will all be going in to a 900D. Do you think a sleeving scheme like the one I mocked up below would look alright? Any suggestions welcome.
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone give me a general idea of how much sleeving it will take to sleeve everything in the 900D also? I know I can get an estimate from my powersupply leads, but I'm not sure they will be sufficient to reach everything (planning on making my own cables so that's fine).
> 
> With regards to the cables, is it better to split the run with an extension to make it neater at the motherboard or is it generally better to just try for one long run to make grouping cables for management easier behind the motherboard tray (if that makes sense)? PSU will be a Cooler Master v1000 if that makes any difference.
> 
> One last question, i'm currently on the fence between Teleios and MDPC sleeving. Any reason to go with either considering this will be my first time sleeving?


Camaro!

Yes, the colour scheme will work.

Depending on your PSU and determination to sleeve ALL wires (like the sata on that hot swap bay and the fan wires/etc.) you may end up using 250 feet of sleeving or somewhere around.

That 24 pin cable I posted above took a large portion of a 100-foot chunk of paracord. I ordered 300 feet, because I knew I'll have screw ups (so far I have three or four botched pieces lying on the floor each about the length of a 24-pin), and almost finished the first 100-foot pack.

Using an extension is really a matter of preference and utility. Nothing stops you from combing and stitching the cable (or whatever your preferred binding solution) straight and orderly to your desired spot and letting it go haywire with splits and random pinouts from thereon, thereby making it equivalent to using an extension, but without the connector shebang, little difference really.


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Camaro!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, the colour scheme will work.
> 
> Depending on your PSU and determination to sleeve ALL wires (like the sata on that hot swap bay and the fan wires/etc.) you may end up using 250 feet of sleeving or somewhere around.
> 
> That 24 pin cable I posted above took a large portion of a 100-foot chunk of paracord. I ordered 300 feet, because I knew I'll have screw ups (so far I have three or four botched pieces lying on the floor each about the length of a 24-pin), and almost finished the first 100-foot pack.
> 
> Using an extension is really a matter of preference and utility. Nothing stops you from combing and stitching the cable (or whatever your preferred binding solution) straight and orderly to your desired spot and letting it go haywire with splits and random pinouts from thereon, thereby making it equivalent to using an extension, but without the connector shebang, little difference really.


Hehe, you're right about the Camero, it wasn't planned! Decided on the MPower motherboard and then picked a scheme from there







.

250 feet isn't too bad, is that a generous estimate or should I add on some more ( 300 or so in total). Hot swap bay will probably come out but I'll attempt the front IO panel. Guess I'll see how I feel about the extensions when my PSU comes in, think the 24 pin is a bit of a mess with split cables, don't think there are any caps to faff around with though!

Thanks for the help kykyllika, +REP for your troubles


----------



## M00NIE

I would try stick to 3 colours instead of the 4 you have with the fans. I just finished a similar theme and used the bequite silent wings for my case fans, look great and can use whatever on the rads if you put them between the rad&case.


http://imgur.com/QDVfy


A tip about the ram, for me at least here in the UK its hard to get hold of. You can buy from Avexer directly, turned out a hell of a lot cheaper and they ship as a sample kit so i don't pay import tax.


----------



## lowfat

IMHO I think just two colours always looks better.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> IMHO I think just two colours always looks better.


I tend to agree with this, but I do think 3 colors can work really well as long as two of them are neutral (black, white, greys, etc) or complimentary to each other. In either case, less is more imo... accent colors should be used sparingly. I'm not a big fan of the "Lutro style" 24 pin pattern in a lot of cases, since it uses even amounts of 3 different colors. Cables look best when most cables match the primary chassis color (black, white, or shade 19 ftw)


----------



## ozzy1925

guys, i took the front I/O out :

each cable is 100 cm length till box and i am going to order from mdpc
3x10m.Sleeve SMALL - WHITE
3x10m Sleeve SATA - WHITE
3xPre-Cut Heatshrink SMALL - ANTHRACITE
3x Heatshrink SATA - ANTHRACITE



should i open the box and start sleeving from there?


and also how can i remove this connectors?


----------



## HeyBear

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M00NIE*
> 
> I would try stick to 3 colours instead of the 4 you have with the fans. I just finished a similar theme and used the bequite silent wings for my case fans, look great and can use whatever on the rads if you put them between the rad&case.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/QDVfy
> 
> 
> A tip about the ram, for me at least here in the UK its hard to get hold of. You can buy from Avexer directly, turned out a hell of a lot cheaper and they ship as a sample kit so i don't pay import tax.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> IMHO I think just two colours always looks better.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> I tend to agree with this, but I do think 3 colors can work really well as long as two of them are neutral (black, white, greys, etc) or complimentary to each other. In either case, less is more imo... accent colors should be used sparingly. I'm not a big fan of the "Lutro style" 24 pin pattern in a lot of cases, since it uses even amounts of 3 different colors. Cables look best when most cables match the primary chassis color (black, white, or shade 19 ftw)






I can see where you're coming from M00NIE, the shortage of GT ap-15's threw my fan choice off a fair bit, the specs and look of the e-loops caught my eye though. Think I might give them a try and possibly look into dying the blades to a darker colour later on.
I'll look into sourcing the RAM cheaper, did you just drop Avexir an email? I can't see any purchasing info on their site, just a list of resellers.

Did I mention this is my first proper build, it's a right of passage to make the thing visible from space isn't it?!







Understated sophistication is for the seasoned professional


----------



## M00NIE

http://www.avexir.com/customize/customize.html
Fill that out and they will get back to you with the price, once mine arrives ill let you know if there were any problems. My first build had leds on leds, never regretted anything more lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> and also how can i remove this connectors?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The sata sleeve can just go over the audio and usb case connectors, no need to remove them.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> 
> I can see where you're coming from M00NIE, the shortage of GT ap-15's threw my fan choice off a fair bit, the specs and look of the e-loops caught my eye though. Think I might give them a try and possibly look into dying the blades to a darker colour later on.
> I'll look into sourcing the RAM cheaper, did you just drop Avexir an email? I can't see any purchasing info on their site, just a list of resellers.
> 
> Did I mention this is my first proper build, it's a right of passage to make the thing visible from space isn't it?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Understated sophistication is for the seasoned professional


If you like eloops, check out the black phobya eloops. I'm using them in my current build, even though I've got a bunch of the white ones from a previous build and I'm using white coolant lol. I just prefer the translucent black blades, plus they're a little cheaper than the noiseblocker versions.


----------



## M00NIE

double posts, page bugging out.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> and also how can i remove this connectors?


Craft knife very carefully under the little tabs and the pins will slide out.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Just stepped on a strip of ATX pins barefoot. Ouch.


----------



## spungyplunger

How do u guys deal with not having a computer for a few days while sleeving?? I'm gonna go and buy a second psu to sleeve...


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spungyplunger*
> 
> How do u guys deal with not having a computer for a few days while sleeving?? I'm gonna go and buy a second psu to sleeve...


Backup rig









But for me its not the sleeving that takes a long time, its the modding


----------



## Mystriss

I seriously struggle with my rig being down, I just try to minimize down time by doing things in stages as much as possible. Takes a bit more planning but I can't go without the feel of my Vengeance K95 under my fingertips for more than 8 hours... I've been putting off water cooling my CPU for like three months because of the testing down time


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M00NIE*
> 
> http://www.avexir.com/customize/customize.html
> Fill that out and they will get back to you with the price, once mine arrives ill let you know if there were any problems. My first build had leds on leds, never regretted anything more lol.
> The sata sleeve can just go over the audio and usb case connectors, no need to remove them.


i was thinking the same but there is 2 cable connected to one head.Should i tape them together and sleeve or sleeve them individually ?
Also i want to sleeve the usb 3.0 without removing the connector, here is the size of the head(2.3cm) and cable(1cm)



which cable type should purchase for it from mdpc?


----------



## Mystriss

@Ozzy1925: The connector you were asking about a page or two ago; the USB 8pin that goes on the MB (as well as the HD Audio), should de-pin the same way the 2pin's do, it's just double sided, lift the flap's up a tiny, tiny bit - just be careful cause if you snap a tab you'll end up wanting to buy a new connector.

On the USB 3.0 20pin internal plug; I believe your best bet is to do that particular cable from the other side - the dual(?) front USB 3.0 plugs (blue) 'should' unscrew from the front panel, and then with some work, and tape, you 'should' be able to just get Sata size sleeve over the female USB's one at a time. (Might need to go up to a 1" sleeve and pull it tight, tight, tight... I'll see if I have time to test the 1/2" sata sleeve over a female USB port while I'm working in the shop this weekend) Then I'd recommend either doing a large heatshrink over the 20pin connector or just push the sleeve right up to the shank of the connector and add a small dot of superglue (I personally prefer the heatshrinkless on Sata and USB cables because I think it looks cleaner.)


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> @Ozzy1925: The connector you were asking about a page or two ago; the USB 8pin that goes on the MB (as well as the HD Audio), should de-pin the same way the 2pin's do, it's just double sided, lift the flap's up a tiny, tiny bit - just be careful cause if you snap a tab you'll end up wanting to buy a new connector.
> 
> On the USB 3.0 20pin internal plug; I believe your best bet is to do that particular cable from the other side - the dual(?) front USB 3.0 plugs (blue) 'should' unscrew from the front panel, and then with some work, and tape, you 'should' be able to just get Sata size sleeve over the female USB's one at a time. (Might need to go up to a 1" sleeve and pull it tight, tight, tight... I'll see if I have time to test the 1/2" sata sleeve over a female USB port while I'm working in the shop this weekend) Then I'd recommend either doing a large heatshrink over the 20pin connector or just push the sleeve right up to the shank of the connector and add a small dot of superglue (I personally prefer the heatshrinkless on Sata and USB cables because I think it looks cleaner.)


thanks, yea the usb 3.0 isdual cable and i will try to start the sleeving from the other side


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Camaro!
> 
> Yes, the colour scheme will work.
> 
> Depending on your PSU and determination to sleeve ALL wires (like the sata on that hot swap bay and the fan wires/etc.) you may end up using 250 feet of sleeving or somewhere around.
> 
> That 24 pin cable I posted above took a large portion of a 100-foot chunk of paracord. I ordered 300 feet, because I knew I'll have screw ups (so far I have three or four botched pieces lying on the floor each about the length of a 24-pin), and almost finished the first 100-foot pack.
> 
> Using an extension is really a matter of preference and utility. Nothing stops you from combing and stitching the cable (or whatever your preferred binding solution) straight and orderly to your desired spot and letting it go haywire with splits and random pinouts from thereon, thereby making it equivalent to using an extension, but without the connector shebang, little difference really.


lol that color scheme is identical to mine, including the layout of the colors on the cables


----------



## M00NIE

Sata sleeve wont fit for the USB3 connector, you would have to go with something bigger. In the end i just left mine. Its an awful looking connector even when sleeved, If my motherboard didn't have it right angled i probably would have not even used it.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spungyplunger*
> 
> How do u guys deal with not having a computer for a few days while sleeving?? I'm gonna go and buy a second psu to sleeve...


Backup set of cables. Actually since all my PSUs are Silverstone Striders I have like 10 sets of backup cables, most of which are sleeved.









As for USB3.0, I don't use the front panel cables anymore. They are an eyesore to me and ruin the look.


----------



## M00NIE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i was thinking the same but there is 2 cable connected to one head.Should i tape them together and sleeve or sleeve them individually ?


I'm not sure how tight a fit that will be, if its to much do it single. If you can get them into the same sata sleeve make the ugly end up by the IO panel were it wont be seen.


----------



## Mystriss

Yea I hate those huge ended usb3 20pins myself, I got a "low-profile" extension for it so it'll match all my single sleeves.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M00NIE*
> 
> Sata sleeve wont fit for the USB3 connector, you would have to go with something bigger. In the end i just left mine. Its an awful looking connector even when sleeved, If my motherboard didn't have it right angled i probably would have not even used it.


Not over the connector, but you can do it from the other side...



here's my guide on doing it with the Prodigy USB 3.0


----------



## Mystriss

^ nice guide. What size sleeving did you have to go with for that?


----------



## longroadtrip

Thanks! That was standard MDPC Shade 19 SATA sleeving...







This should work with LC sleeving as well...


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Thanks! That was standard MDPC Shade 19 SATA sleeving...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should work with LC sleeving as well...


A small note: the LC Sata sleeve is a 8mm sleeve with a denser design so it expands JUST enough to go over the sata heads, but then it contracts to have a better coverage. So if MDPC was a tight fit the LC Sata size may not fit!


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> A small note: the LC Sata sleeve is a 8mm sleeve with a denser design so it expands JUST enough to go over the sata heads, but then it contracts to have a better coverage. So if MDPC was a tight fit the LC Sata size may not fit!


Send me some SATA sleeve and I'll test it!









I was able to get MDPC over it pretty easily, so 8mm sleeving shouldn't be a problem..toughest part is keeping it from snagging


----------



## Mystriss

I was thinking about taping one of those silly usb protectors over the fem end when / if I sleeve mine up hehehe


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Send me some SATA sleeve and I'll test it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to get MDPC over it pretty easily, so 8mm sleeving shouldn't be a problem..toughest part is keeping it from snagging


Ahhh, the weave allows for less snagging but I will send you some. Make sure to FB me tomorrow and I will get some out.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Ahhh, the weave allows for less snagging but I will send you some. Make sure to FB me tomorrow and I will get some out.


PM'd you...


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Not over the connector, but you can do it from the other side...
> 
> 
> 
> here's my guide on doing it with the Prodigy USB 3.0


nice quide, but i think my usb 3.0 cable is thicker than yours which is 10mm .Do you think sata sleeve cable will fit?


----------



## kpoeticg

These moddiy USB3 cables are a good sleeving option too. I'm pretty sure FCPU & PPC carry them too


----------



## longroadtrip

Once everything arrives, I am going to do another tutorial...one on sleeving existing cables and one on making completely new cables.


----------



## Mystriss

I actually found a low profile USB 3.0 connector with silver wires on the MB side at Moddiy.com it'll match my build perfectly









I like making my own cables from scratch so I can get them just the right length, plus you can 'shape' them by varying the wire lengths.


----------



## WebsterXC

Finally figured out a decent color scheme for my quad socket motherboard. While I love MDPC sleeving, it was going to break the bank this time around so I went with paracord. All of my cables will be made from scratch too, so I'll have a nice project to work on over Christmas break!



Does anyone know where I can find the sleeving color pattern template? I believe it was talked about many pages ago but can't seem to find it.


----------



## Radmanhs

i was just wondering what is the average price for a first timer who needs all the tools and everything except for a wire stripper


----------



## Teplous

150-200 usd


----------



## Radmanhs

and that includes sleeving?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> i was just wondering what is the average price for a first timer who needs all the tools and everything except for a wire stripper


Are we talking crimping, sleeving, or both?


----------



## Big Elf

If you're making up your own wires then less than $100 for the essential tools; ATX Pin Extractor, Flush Side Cutting Pliers, Paracord Threader, Crimping tool, Lighter. You can substitute staples for the pin extractor and use masking tape instead of the paracord threader but don't cheap out on the Side Cutters or Crimping tool. However the Pin Extractor and Paracord threader will help make it a pleasurable experience.


----------



## Radmanhs

ok, thanks, i will be making custom cables and use mdpc-x sleeving


----------



## kpoeticg

If you're gonna be making your own cables, and you don't already have a Knipex quality or better, you should consider adding that to your budget maybe.

I put it off for a while cuz i already had the Vise Brand auto-stripper that Lutro sells for cheaper on his site. But it's definitely a noticeable difference. If you're gonna be making your own cables, it'll make life easier. Not just the ease of stripping the wires, but also how the strands are after you strip the insulation.

If you're gonna be making your own wires, and buying all your connectors, and learning how to crimp. I'd expect to spend more than 100. The right tools can be the difference between it being a nightmarish experience, or just something new that you learn how to do.

Speaking as some1 who's learning myself, I'd say you should definitely spring for the proper tools if you have no experience. Specifically a proper ATX Pin Remover (either the original molex, or the version that Lutro sells), the round double sided 4Pin Molex remover, and a very good crimper (either Lutro or MDPC). If you add pins and connectors to that, and disregard the wire stripper, it'll come out to around 100.

If you're going with paracord, i'd definitely get the flush cutters and paracord threader from lutro too. His coreless paracord is awesome to work with, especially when learning to sleeve, but you can definitely save some money buying cheap paracord. Heatshrink is another expense too. You can also make life easier on yourself with heatshrink if you either make a cutting jig or buy a cutter like

THIS one FrozenCPU sells for $12.99.



It's an extra expense, but it'll save you money so you don't need to buy precut heatshrink.

You could definitely get away with spending 100 if that's all you can afford, but if you're willing to spend closer to 150-175 (just guessing) it'll be a much happier learning experience.

Sorry if that sounds overwhelming, it's really not.

There's just a bunch of small expenses that can add up when you're learning (Heatshrink, Wire, Pins, Connectors), on top of the tools to get yourself setup.

That's been my recent experience anyway

Edit: Just noticed you're going with MDPC. You can easily go over 100 just on sleeving if that's the case. I'd do paracord if you want a fairly inexpensive learning experience. My 150-175 estimate was based on the fact you can sleeve your whole psu for probly 10 bux with cheap paracord


----------



## Big Elf

Just to be clear, I was quoting $100 for essential tools, it didn't include pins, wire or sleeving etc.


----------



## Radmanhs

ok, how much would the rest be too?


----------



## Big Elf

Well, the pins work out about $0.08 each, the wire about $0.31 per foot if bought from Lutro0. I'm not sure how much per foot MDPC-X works out at as you get charged a different price to those of us in the EU. You can save quite a bit if you buy MDPC-X in bulk but only if you're going to be using large quantities. It might be more economical to buy Teleios sleeving from Lutro0.

Multiply the number of wires in your connectors by the lengths to get a rough idea of how much wire and sleeve you need and in the case of the sleeve add on about 20% extra for practice/wastage. if you have 100 wires that use ATX pins then get about 250 pins. The number of pins you need for the Molex/Auxiliary connectors depends on how many components you'll be attaching but each connector uses 4 pins.


----------



## lowfat

MDPC-X sleeving is actually cheaper per foot than Lutro0 or anywhere else as far as I know. But shipping will likely be more.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> MDPC-X sleeving is actually cheaper per foot than Lutro0 or anywhere else as far as I know. But shipping will likely be more.


Thanks, I wasn't sure about that. I thought MDPC-X had quite high Shipping Charges to the US but then again he doesn't charge 19% VAT that we in Europe have to pay.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Just to be clear, I was quoting $100 for essential tools, it didn't include pins, wire or sleeving etc.


I figured as much. It wasn't long ago that i had to buy everything new to get myself setup for sleeving, that's why i explained it the way i did.









I know how fast everything adds up when you need to buy it all at once, especially when you need to plan on wasting pins, sleeving, heatshrink, & wire as part of the learning of process.

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> MDPC-X sleeving is actually cheaper per foot than Lutro0 or anywhere else as far as I know. But shipping will likely be more.


Yeah, i wasn't trying to imply MDPC was more expensive than other sleeving. Just that trying to buy EVERYTHING he needs to get started + sleeving on ~$100 budget doesn't leave much room for MDPC or any other sleeving. That's why i said cheap paracord would be a good idea. Like the $10 for your whole system paracord =)

The price differences between MDPC & LC even out between the euros -> dollars + the shipping. If some1's sleeving with PET, it just makes sense to order from wherever's closest (LC, MDPC, Darkside, Sleevemodding) Unless of course, you need a particular color to match the theme of your build.

I actually almost placed a huge order with MDPC back before Telios was even out yet. I wasn't positive on my color scheme yet so i was gonna just order a ton of sleeving. I didn't even have the option to cashout the shopping cart cuz he didn't offer a shipping option for the amount of stuff i wuz ordering i guess. LOL


----------



## spungyplunger

I spent ~120 on teleios sleeving, heatshrink, cutting tool, molex tool, 4 pin tool, and lighters and I still have sleeving left over after doing my PSU.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Just to be clear, I was quoting $100 for essential tools, it didn't include pins, wire or sleeving etc.


I just made a cart with Xmas sleeving kit, crimper, pin remover and 3 strips of pins and it came out to be about US$150 (less tax, including shipping). All you'd really need apart from that is something to cut wire and some lighters. A craft knife can cut and strip wires in a pinch.


----------



## Radmanhs

alright, thanks for all the help!

i dont have to worry about the stripper (hehehe) because i have an auto adjusting one in our garage


----------



## Egami

Just figured I'd share my discovery with you guys: Found an easy(ish) way of painting cables using the Citadel's miniature paints. The results are good and there's no cracking or undue stiffening of the cables. The paints I've used are skull white for white cables (from black to white and yellow to white) and abbandon black for black cables (yellow to black). Takes a little patience but it's a thin and cheap solution if you don't fancy using electrical tape.


----------



## spungyplunger

I've got a corsair rm650 and i'm starting sleeving on the 6+2 PCI-e cable, its got a second 6+2 connector attached to it, like the 4pin trains that most PSUs come with. Can I just cut that part off just like the 4pin?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spungyplunger*
> 
> I've got a corsair rm650 and i'm starting sleeving on the 6+2 PCI-e cable, its got a second 6+2 connector attached to it, like the 4pin trains that most PSUs come with. Can I just cut that part off just like the 4pin?


Well, if you're sleeving then you probly have a crimper & pins too, so you shouldn't have to "cut" anything. Just redo the wire yourself if you don't want the extra 6+2.

Also couldn't hurt to checkout the OCN PSU Pinout Repository to make sure you know your wires are arranged.


----------



## spungyplunger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well, if you're sleeving then you probly have a crimper & pins too, so you shouldn't have to "cut" anything. Just redo the wire yourself if you don't want the extra 6+2.
> Also couldn't hurt to checkout the OCN PSU Pinout Repository to make sure you know your wires are arranged.


Nope, don't have a crimper/wires/pins at all. I've just been taking out wires one at a time and sleeving it and putting it back in.


----------



## kpoeticg

Wow, you're pretty brave.

You're not worried what's gonna happen when a pin gets stuck and you have to kinda ruin it to get it out?

Sometimes it can go pretty smoothly and you might not have anything to worry about. I would definitely consider grabbing a crimper & extra pins to keep handy tho.

Edit: Or if you really can't afford a crimper, needle nose pliers can work in a pinch. I still recommending having pins around when you're sleeving tho.


----------



## spungyplunger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Wow, you're pretty brave.
> 
> You're not worried what's gonna happen when a pin gets stuck and you have to kinda ruin it to get it out?
> 
> Sometimes it can go pretty smoothly and you might not have anything to worry about. I would definitely consider grabbing a crimper & extra pins to keep handy tho.
> 
> Edit: Or if you really can't afford a crimper, needle nose pliers can work in a pinch. I still recommending having pins around when you're sleeving tho.


I've done my 24pin and 8pin power cables so far with no stuck pins







Been using both the molex tool and staples to remove the more stubborn pins. I can get a crimper but I just don't really want to order pins and have to wait for them to arrive haha. This is my first time sleeving so I didn't want to make my own wires and such, just trying to keep it simple.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Wow, you're pretty brave.
> 
> You're not worried what's gonna happen when a pin gets stuck and you have to kinda ruin it to get it out?
> 
> Sometimes it can go pretty smoothly and you might not have anything to worry about. I would definitely consider grabbing a crimper & extra pins to keep handy tho.
> 
> Edit: Or if you really can't afford a crimper, needle nose pliers can work in a pinch. I still recommending having pins around when you're sleeving tho.


I did a whole non modular power supply just by removing one pin at a time and it works just fine


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> I did a whole non modular power supply just by removing one pin at a time and it works just fine


Yeah, i wasn't trying to say that if you're gonna sleeve a PSU then there's a 100% chance you're gonna break some pins. But for the price of a few strips of ATX pins for a safety net, just seems a no-brainer to me. Especially if you're already ordering sleeving anyway....



Edit:

Anybody check FCPU's "New Products" section in the past cpl hours?


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Edit:
> Anybody check FCPU's "New Products" section in the past cpl hours?


Solid, can't wait to pull this when it gets in.


----------



## Radmanhs

just wondern' if anyone here has sleeved an ax850. i have been looking at the pinout charts, but the 24 pin makes my brain hurt. big elf says its easy to understand, however that isnt the case with me it seems hahaha.

would it be too much for someone to make a simple chart that's easy to understand?


----------



## MNModder

Check out this it should be in the first post just find the corsair section IIRC the ax 850 is with the ax 750 hope this helps


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNModder*
> 
> Check out this it should be in the first post just find the corsair section IIRC the ax 850 is with the ax 750 hope this helps


i saw that, but i tried to figure it out, but all it has done is give me a headache


----------



## lowfat

Grand bleu + black on the left. Grand bleu + shade 19 on the right. The black looks substantially better in person IMO. Really wish I didn't use shade 19 on my Lian Li build.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-19-5.jpg.html


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Hello Everybody,

I am in the process of building myself a new custom gamer. My previous computer had a Thermaltake Toughpower 700 watt psu that I built custom cables for except for the cables connected to the psu itself. It was my first experience at cable sleeving and custom cable building. The cables turned out great. The custom cables I built were to remove unnecessary power connectors that weren't going to be used. For example I built a cable with two sata connectors for my hard drives and that's it. I also did the same for my dvd-rom drives. To me the extra connectors don't give the inside of the case a clean look. Luckily for me I had an extra set of cables for that psu as the original psu had a power switch malfunction that Thermaltake warrantied. But I never got to use that psu as some of the components were sorted out. My cpu water block overheated and the acrylic part caused it to leak coolant all over. All thanks to a hard drive replacement and the pump power connector being disconnected just enough that it didn't turn on during the process. Needless to say the experience has strayed me away from liquid cooling for my new custom build. I did love the liquid cooling though as temps were awesome! Okay enough rambling about that disaster.

I did contact Thermaltake about re-sleeving their cables or building custom cables for the psu awhile back. Of course they said I couldn't do it as it would void the warranty and the fact they can't give that information out as employees. So I was directed here. Now with my new build I would like to do the same as far as the cables go. My new psu is a Thermaltake Toughpower XT Gold 1375 watt. I will sleeve the cables connected to the psu itself and that's not a problem. On my last psu I just sleeved all the cables together as I'm not sure I like the individual cable wire sleeving look. As I said above I plan on building custom cables to remove unnecessary connectors that will never be used. I don't think that would be an issue and can't see why it would honestly. I purchased wire from Performance-PCs.com in the proper colors and gauge used like the stock psu cables have. I've also purchased UV connectors and the proper pins as well. Here's the thing,I would like to know from all you well experienced cable sleevers here if using the wire from Performance-PCs is safe to use. If not where would you recommend purchasing wire from? The other thing is,is it safe to build custom cables without all the unnecessary connectors for hard drives and dvd-rom drives (I do use the stock psu cables as a guide when building custom cables)? If that's all well and good I'll be able to do the same for lighting too. I would greatly appreciate any input or recommendations given. Thanks!

WolfFangs1381


----------



## Belial

I got a question:

Should I make my mobo internal connectors solid blue (as it is) or change it to Gray/White/Blue (like my main extensions are)?


----------



## Big Elf

You've got so much colour going on in there I doubt anyone will notice. The blue LEDs tend to 'wash' out the colours anyway.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> Here's the thing,I would like to know from all you well experienced cable sleevers here if using the wire from Performance-PCs is safe to use. If not where would you recommend purchasing wire from? The other thing is,is it safe to build custom cables without all the unnecessary connectors for hard drives and dvd-rom drives (I do use the stock psu cables as a guide when building custom cables)? If that's all well and good I'll be able to do the same for lighting too. I would greatly appreciate any input or recommendations given.


I believe so long as you match the gauges any electrical wire will work (at least in the USA.) When I rewired my non-modular PSU I got 16 gauge (for most connections) and 22 gauge (for fans, power/reset switch, and front bezel LEDs) from my local automotive and hardware stores in colors that wouldn't show poorly through my sleeving. I've not used the wire from PPCS, but I'm sure it is just fine.

Yes it is safe to make custom cables with, for example, only 2 molex connectors instead of 4, or 2 sata power connectors instead of 3, or what have you. I've actually got a single molex connector running on my 12v rail right now for my LED driver and another on my 12v rail is running 3 PCI-e mounted external molex connectors.

My only cautions would be A) make sure you pin out your cables correctly; ie grounds, 5v and 12v lines etc., and B) be careful with matching the number of connectors they have per cable on yours; ie if they only do 3 sata power connectors per line, don't make a cable with more than 3 on it. this is not a hard n fast rule, but you'd have to do some testing on how many volts said line was producing vs how much the components you'd be plugging in would use at max, etc. I remember making a MB power and HDD power combined cable way back when - whenever my CD drive started up it would blue screen my system hehehe

Good luck!


----------



## lowfat

PPCS is safe to use. But it isn't great for sleeving. It is very soft w/ too much insulation and less actually wire. It can't really hold its shape at all.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Wow, you're pretty brave.
> 
> You're not worried what's gonna happen when a pin gets stuck and you have to kinda ruin it to get it out?
> 
> Sometimes it can go pretty smoothly and you might not have anything to worry about. I would definitely consider grabbing a crimper & extra pins to keep handy tho.
> 
> Edit: Or if you really can't afford a crimper, needle nose pliers can work in a pinch. I still recommending having pins around when you're sleeving tho.


I've managed to sleeve my gpu cables and 24 pin with this method. Was it a pain in the rear? Yes. Do I recommend this method? Not if you can afford the proper materials. It was just one of them things I had to try for myself. I'll be going the proper route next go 'round.


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I believe so long as you match the gauges any electrical wire will work (at least in the USA.) When I rewired my non-modular PSU I got 16 gauge (for most connections) and 22 gauge (for fans, power/reset switch, and front bezel LEDs) from my local automotive and hardware stores in colors that wouldn't show poorly through my sleeving. I've not used the wire from PPCS, but I'm sure it is just fine.
> 
> Yes it is safe to make custom cables with, for example, only 2 molex connectors instead of 4, or 2 sata power connectors instead of 3, or what have you. I've actually got a single molex connector running on my 12v rail right now for my LED driver and another on my 12v rail is running 3 PCI-e mounted external molex connectors.
> 
> My only cautions would be A) make sure you pin out your cables correctly; ie grounds, 5v and 12v lines etc., and B) be careful with matching the number of connectors they have per cable on yours; ie if they only do 3 sata power connectors per line, don't make a cable with more than 3 on it. this is not a hard n fast rule, but you'd have to do some testing on how many volts said line was producing vs how much the components you'd be plugging in would use at max, etc. I remember making a MB power and HDD power combined cable way back when - whenever my CD drive started up it would blue screen my system hehehe
> 
> Good luck!


Yeah I bought all the correct gauge wire but I might need to buy more. lol Used a lot when I did the cables for my 700w. I thought it would be just fine building my own custom cables. Things could go wrong but that's the risk we take modding our custom builds right?

When I changed out my 24-pin main power cable I labelled each wire before I actually sleeved it. I also drew myself a diagram so I'd know where each wire went when I used my 24-pin UV molex connector. It worked out well when putting the pins back into the connector. I don't plan on using anymore than two sata connectors to run my hard drives and two connectors for my dvd-roms. I don't see a reason to use more than two hard drives or two dvd-rom drives. To me all those extra bays these newer cases have are pointless. But I understand what your saying. This is the last thing I have to do before I can set up my new custom gamer. But wanted to ask about it before I started. My only problem is I just don't have a place to put my case yet! lol Thanks for the information,it's appreciated.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> PPCS is safe to use. But it isn't great for sleeving. It is very soft w/ too much insulation and less actually wire. It can't really hold its shape at all.


It seemed pretty okay to me when I did my 700w psu. If I remember correctly most of the wire had the same amount of wire inside the insulation. And there was maybe one that was more insulation than actual wire. As for holding it's shape what I did was sleeve the wires and shrink tube one end,then pulled the sleeving tight,wrapped a twist tie around the other end keeping it tight and then shrink tubed it. It covers the wires inside pretty much completely and by twist tying the one end after doing the other will add a bit of give to the sleeving. I'll post a pic of some of the cables I did for my 700w psu as well as everything hooked up inside the case. Each wire however wasn't sleeved individually so you can see the actual wire near the connectors. Which for myself I didn't mind. I'm still not sure if I like the individually sleeved wires or not. We'll see when I get to actually sleeving my new 1375w psu cables. lol Thanks for the information,it's appreciated.









WolfFangs1381


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> Things could go wrong but that's the risk we take modding our custom builds right?


For sure, though I'd recommend not trying to hide the PSU side of the cables "inside" the PSU like I did, the top never did go back on quite right which made the fan rattle











Though it did work just fine for quite a while, until I was messing around with wiring up CCFL's and forgot to unplug it once hahaha That was my last non-modular PSU ever.


----------



## lowfat

The lowfat© V2 cable clamps. Now stronger and better.








http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-41-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-42-1.jpg.html


----------



## HeyBear

Hey guys,

Probably a silly question but thought I'd better double check. I'm just making a pin out diagram for my 24 pin cable and the empty socket has me a little confused...

 

I'm guessing the ---- on pin 20 in the manual is meant to signify there is no pin, however it appears to be socket 19 on my actual cable. The power supply is a Cooler master v1000 if that makes any difference. Am I missing something obvious or is the diagram in the manual wrong?


----------



## Mystriss

hmm that is odd... I'd actually say your connector there isn't compliant, aka some worker messed up. ATX standard puts pins 17-19 as grounds, and the 20pin as -5v, which I believe is optional. I'm fairly certain that Cooler Master complies with the ATX standards...


----------



## HeyBear

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> hmm that is odd... I'd actually say your connector there isn't compliant, aka some worker messed up. ATX standard puts pins 17-19 as grounds, and the 20pin as -5v, which I believe is optional. I'm fairly certain that Cooler Master complies with the ATX standards...






Thanks Mystriss,

Hmm, this is a little annoying, is there anyway to get a diagram of how the connectors are arranged from the unit? Annoyingly, the 24 pin is split into an 18 pin and 10 pin from the connectors on the PSU. I don't have a voltmeter to test each connector unfortunately, I've never done anything like that before though so not sure if I want to mess around with something like that.


----------



## Big Elf

I'm fairly certain that the pin-outs on the Cooler Master V1000 are the same as those on the *SeaSonic P1000*. It might be a useful aid to checking the pin-outs.

The diagram is based on looking at the connectors from the rear (where the wire is inserted).


----------



## HeyBear

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I'm fairly certain that the pin-outs on the Cooler Master V1000 are the same as those on the *SeaSonic P1000*. It might be a useful aid to checking the pin-outs.
> 
> The diagram is based on looking at the connectors from the rear (where the wire is inserted).






Thanks, Big Elf!
I did some searching after Mystriss got back to me and found your post where you mentioned that Seasonic where the manufacture's of the V1000 and then found your repository. The 10 pin matches so far, just checking on the 18 pin now.


----------



## lowfat

New retention clamps work awesome.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-46-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-43-1.jpg.html


----------



## HeyBear

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> hmm that is odd... I'd actually say your connector there isn't compliant, aka some worker messed up. ATX standard puts pins 17-19 as grounds, and the 20pin as -5v, which I believe is optional. I'm fairly certain that Cooler Master complies with the ATX standards...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I'm fairly certain that the pin-outs on the Cooler Master V1000 are the same as those on the *SeaSonic P1000*. It might be a useful aid to checking the pin-outs.
> 
> The diagram is based on looking at the connectors from the rear (where the wire is inserted).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> hmm that is odd... I'd actually say your connector there isn't compliant, aka some worker messed up. ATX standard puts pins 17-19 as grounds, and the 20pin as -5v, which I believe is optional. I'm fairly certain that Cooler Master complies with the ATX standards...






Looks as though the ground on socket 19 was in 20 instead, the bloody pin was a bit of a nuisance to get out but have moved the pin now. I'll go through and check the rest but hopefully that will be the only thing. Thanks for your help guys.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> You've got so much colour going on in there I doubt anyone will notice. The blue LEDs tend to 'wash' out the colours anyway.


Here's a better pic of what's going on lighting-wise. I need to throw out that garbage nzxt led strip...



The blue LEDs won't be washing out any color, it'll be white light in there like a display case. The blue LEDs will be limited to just a slight blue glow to the fans (and maybe a slight blue tinge to the lighting). It'll be a primarily white light case.

Dont mind the mess, this case isn't even half done yet.


----------



## lowfat

How I managed the crossover on a 1:1 24-pin.
http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-53.jpg.html


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> How I managed the crossover on a 1:1 24-pin.
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-53.jpg.html


Went to the build log thread to get a better sense. You sure molested that case allright. Results are great so far, but would serve better with few big picture shots showing the general flow. Judging on what we've seen so far, I expect a new standard in cable management when your build is finished. And thanks for the heads up on that cable clamps bracketing solution, I'll steal that from ya.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> How I managed the crossover on a 1:1 24-pin.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-53.jpg.html


How do you get the non crossed over part so straight? I can never get mine to look like that no matter how much hand forming I do.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Went to the build log thread to get a better sense. You sure molested that case allright. Results are great so far, but would serve better with few big picture shots showing the general flow. Judging on what we've seen so far, I expect a new standard in cable management when your build is finished. And thanks for the heads up on that cable clamps bracketing solution, I'll steal that from ya.


That is all that is done so far so no point in showing more







. It takes me quite a while to cut and shape those clamps since I do it by hand. Hopefully I'll have the 24-pin 100% completed by the end of the weekend.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> How do you get the non crossed over part so straight? I can never get mine to look like that no matter how much hand forming I do.


At the bottom of the pic you see those two retention bars that are crooked? Those are my combs. I do one over the top set of wires and one of the bottom. I make them tight enough so it is impossible for the wires to cross over. Then just push them down. Although none of this would matter w/o the other retention bars screwed to the motherboard tray. Tension on the cables is absolutely critical to train cables. That plus having a really tight weave on the sleeving.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> That is all that is done so far so no point in showing more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It takes me quite a while to cut and shape those clamps since I do it by hand. Hopefully I'll have the 24-pin 100% completed by the end of the weekend.
> At the bottom of the pic you see those two retention bars that are crooked? Those are my combs. I do one over the top set of wires and one of the bottom. I make them tight enough so it is impossible for the wires to cross over. Then just push them down. Although none of this would matter w/o the other retention bars screwed to the motherboard tray. Tension on the cables is absolutely critical to train cables. That plus having a really tight weave on the sleeving.


Makes sense thanks! Do the brackets have to stay on or can they be removed after?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Makes sense thanks! Do the brackets have to stay on or can they be removed after?


The ones I use for combs? They come off. The ones screwed to the motherboard stay.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The ones I use for combs? They come off. The ones screwed to the motherboard stay.


Yeah the combs, thanks!

Edit: getto combs with awful picture (tablet)


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> For sure, though I'd recommend not trying to hide the PSU side of the cables "inside" the PSU like I did, the top never did go back on quite right which made the fan rattle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though it did work just fine for quite a while, until I was messing around with wiring up CCFL's and forgot to unplug it once hahaha That was my last non-modular PSU ever.


I was actually going to do that with my 700 watt and then I thought better of it. lol I thought for sure if I did that something would happen and cause me problems than I cared to have.

You can actually wire up CCFL's to run directly off the psu without the inverter? Not quite sure if I'm following you correctly on that.

Here are a few pics of the sleeving I did for my 700 watt psu. I probably could have shrink tubed them closer to the connector,but it might have made it harder to put the pins in the connector itself.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Yeah the combs, thanks!
> 
> Edit: getto combs with awful picture (tablet)


How thick is the metal? I wouldn't use anything less than 1.5mm aluminum. It will bend and likely not work. Drill a hole on each side. It only takes like 5 seconds to drill a hole and another 5 seconds to throw a screw and nut in.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> You can actually wire up CCFL's to run directly off the psu without the inverter? Not quite sure if I'm following you correctly on that.


Oh no you can't, I blew the inverter as well


----------



## AmcieK

Guys which color will be ok with blue corsair vengeance ? I wondered over http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve/sleeve-small-aquamarine-blue-mkii.htm


----------



## Gardnerphotos

@lowfat do all of the strider PSUs have that crossover??


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> How thick is the metal? I wouldn't use anything less than 1.5mm aluminum. It will bend and likely not work. Drill a hole on each side. It only takes like 5 seconds to drill a hole and another 5 seconds to throw a screw and nut in.


It's some thin steel, I'm definitely going to break out the aluminum and screws today, just didn't have time last night and saw the steel and clamps on my work bench...


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> @lowfat do all of the strider PSUs have that crossover??


It you want the cable to be straight the yes. Every 1:1 power supply will.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Question for Lutro0, or anyone else who has ordered his replacement die for the MDPC crimper...

When I was just using the MDPC crimper, I was having the problem that many others faced of breaking off the wings of molex pins because the die was not milled quite enough. I ordered the replacement hoping it would fix the problem. However, as I began using it, I noticed that the new die was not crimping the terminal wings all the way down. Here is a picture of what I'm talking about:



On the right is the wire I tried crimping with the replacement die. As you can see the wings are just laying on top of the wire as opposed to cutting into it. On the left is a wire crimped with the original die. I tried crimping some pins on Lutro0's custom 22awg wire, thinking the fan wire was perhaps narrower than usual. I got the same result. I proceeded to try a molex pin on 18awg wire, and the new die again failed to crimp the terminal all the way down.

Long story short... I think my die has been milled _too_ much. Am I doing something wrong or has anyone else had this issue?


----------



## Big Elf

Can you also do a picture of the comparison of the dies with ATX pins? I don't use my MDPC-X or Lutro0 crimper for fan pins (prefer the Molex non-ratcheting hand tool). On ATX pins you notice a slight difference between the 2 crimps, enough to differentiate them by sight. Both will fold over the insulation wings and 'crush' the insulation but it's a fraction less with Lutro0s tool.

Crush is actually too strong a word for it but I can't, at the moment, think of a better one.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Can you also do a picture of the comparison of the dies with ATX pins? I don't use my MDPC-X or Lutro0 crimper for fan pins (prefer the Molex non-ratcheting hand tool). On ATX pins you notice a slight difference between the 2 crimps, enough to differentiate them by sight. Both will fold over the insulation wings and 'crush' the insulation but it's a fraction less with Lutro0s tool.
> 
> Crush is actually too strong a word for it but I can't, at the moment, think of a better one.


Unfortunately I am out of town and failed take such a picture. I feel like if the die does not crimp a molex pin all the way though, then it probably wouldn't do any better with an ATX pin.


----------



## Big Elf

Maybe so but because the die for crimping the ATX pin is different to that for the fan pin I could get a better idea of the 2 crimps. Bear in mind that if you're using the Molex manufactured ATX pins then you're using a standard design whereas the Molex 4 pin type pins vary from manufacturer to manufacturer so I would expect some variance in the crimp.

Best bet is to contact Lutro0 direct at his shop.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Question for Lutro0, or anyone else who has ordered his replacement die for the MDPC crimper...
> 
> When I was just using the MDPC crimper, I was having the problem that many others faced of breaking off the wings of molex pins because the die was not milled quite enough. I ordered the replacement hoping it would fix the problem. However, as I began using it, I noticed that the new die was not crimping the terminal wings all the way down. Here is a picture of what I'm talking about:
> 
> -snip-
> 
> On the right is the wire I tried crimping with the replacement die. As you can see the wings are just laying on top of the wire as opposed to cutting into it. On the left is a wire crimped with the original die. I tried crimping some pins on Lutro0's custom 22awg wire, thinking the fan wire was perhaps narrower than usual. I got the same result. I proceeded to try a molex pin on 18awg wire, and the new die again failed to crimp the terminal all the way down.
> 
> Long story short... I think my die has been milled _too_ much. Am I doing something wrong or has anyone else had this issue?


Please get ahold of us @ [email protected]

Also I would try to readjust the die, what I mean by this is when you put the die on make sure that the ridges are exactly in the middle of the valleys, then screw it down tight. Also I would readjust the top die as well by simply losening it and then tightening it once again. Though rare sometimes they do shift.

If this doesnt fix it we will rush you a new one asap! Its rare but sometimes our mill take a little bit extra (and just a tiny bit makes a huge difference when you are talking about such small changes.


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Oh no you can't, I blew the inverter as well


I thought so. I was trying to figure out how it could be possible but couldn't come up with anything. Ah hell.....I hate when that happens. I had one or two blow on me too. lol I've got two red 12" CCFL's that will go in my case. But I'm thinking about adding two more smaller ones as well. Going to have to pick up a 4-way inverter though.









P.S. Here is a pic of my case. Meant to post it the last time I replied.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Show
> 
> 
> 
> I thought so. I was trying to figure out how it could be possible but couldn't come up with anything. Ah hell.....I hate when that happens. I had one or two blow on me too. lol I've got two red 12" CCFL's that will go in my case. But I'm thinking about adding two more smaller ones as well. Going to have to pick up a 4-way inverter though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. Here is a pic of my case. Meant to post it the last time I replied.


Nice looking case, I've always been fond of red & black myself.









I'm planning to do blue CCFL's behind all four of my monitors (bias lighting) I've not tried these personally, but you might want to look at http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_109&products_id=27731 or http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_109&products_id=34114

Here's my work in progress; I went with black and silver brushed aluminum and RGB lighting allows me to alter the interior color of the top case at will. I've mostly finished wiring up my interior lighting but I don't have a video of it yet. Just waiting on a warmer, not snowing, day so I can build my stereo rack and get to making all my cables.


----------



## lowfat

How I depin a connector w/ staples. The staples are heavy duty ones that I have filed down. They insert very easily and I've never broken them after hundreds of depins.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-63-1.jpg.html

Then I insert a 1.5mm hex wrench in the front and push gently on the pin.
http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-62-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-61-1.jpg.html

By doing it this way you should never get a connector broken off inside by pulling on the wire.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Here's my work in progress; I went with black and silver brushed aluminum and RGB lighting allows me to alter the interior color of the top case at will. I've mostly finished wiring up my interior lighting but I don't have a video of it yet. Just waiting on a warmer, not snowing, day so I can build my stereo rack and get to making all my cables.


Are those Akasa Pro-Slim sata cables?


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Please get ahold of us @ [email protected]
> 
> Also I would try to readjust the die, what I mean by this is when you put the die on make sure that the ridges are exactly in the middle of the valleys, then screw it down tight. Also I would readjust the top die as well by simply losening it and then tightening it once again. Though rare sometimes they do shift.
> 
> If this doesnt fix it we will rush you a new one asap! Its rare but sometimes our mill take a little bit extra (and just a tiny bit makes a huge difference when you are talking about such small changes.


I will definitely try this and get ahold of you if it doesn't work. Thanks!


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Show
> 
> 
> 
> How I depin a connector w/ staples. The staples are heavy duty ones that I have filed down. They insert very easily and I've never broken them after hundreds of depins.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-63-1.jpg.html
> 
> Then I insert a 1.5mm hex wrench in the front and push gently on the pin.
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-62-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-61-1.jpg.html
> 
> By doing it this way you should never get a connector broken off inside by pulling on the wire.
> Are those Akasa Pro-Slim sata cables?


Oooo I love that staple idea, I've got all the special tools, but that looks like it might even work better; no yanking on the wrong wire, etc. I'm gonna have to try it.

Yep, Akasa Pro-Slims, I absolutely love them. Even before I switched to 8mm standoffs I could stack two cables under the motherboard comfortably. I don't think the latches work very well, but I honestly don't care about that one bit.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Yep, Akasa Pro-Slims, I absolutely love them. Even before I switched to 8mm standoffs I could stack two cables under the motherboard comfortably. I don't think the latches work very well, but I honestly don't care about that one bit.


Are you aware you can pull off the connector, cut the cable to length, then reattach the connector. All without soldering? I only buy those cables specifically for that reason.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Are you aware you can pull off the connector, cut the cable to length, then reattach the connector. All without soldering? I only buy those cables specifically for that reason.


I was not aware of this. I've got two that are too short for my dual case setup, perhaps I can lengthen them temporarily to make it easier to work on her. Although I'll prob. replace those two regardless as they had 'form shaped' to my previous single case setup and now don't lay as flat as I'd like hehehe


----------



## jeanspaulo

Hello guys, I need some of your help.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_804_1030&products_id=37141

I Just bought one of that 24pin cable for my AX1200i PSU and I'm trying to remove the pins to re-sleeve some of the cords and I need to disassemble the cable to pass the cords individually on the acrylic on my build but the pin just don't come out, I'm using this tool http://mnpctech.com/pc-sleeving-psu-power-supply-atx-tool-white-black-pet-red-green-blue/pc-sleeve-tool.html but the pin just dont come out. I tryed on another PSUs and its so easy to pull out the pin but with this corsair they seem stuck.

Any tips?

Thanks


----------



## Big Elf

Sadly it's not a very good ATX Pin Remover and is likely to break fairly quickly.

Make sure that you push the wire back up into the housing then press down the tool to make sure the tangs are depressed. Also pull the wire straight when removing it and you may need to 'wiggle' the wire first. You may need more force than you think to remove the pin but there's also a risk of the wire coming out of the pin.

WiSKs wonderful picture shows the pin inside the connector



and as he says 'you need to push first and wiggle to free the wings. Only then will the extractor tool be able to depress the wings properly, enough to free the pin.'

There's also *lowfat's method in post #10377* a few posts back


----------



## jeanspaulo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Sadly it's not a very good ATX Pin Remover and is likely to break fairly quickly.
> 
> Make sure that you push the wire back up into the housing then press down the tool to make sure the tangs are depressed. Also pull the wire straight when removing it and you may need to 'wiggle' the wire first. You may need more force than you think to remove the pin but there's also a risk of the wire coming out of the pin.
> 
> WiSKs wonderful picture shows the pin inside the connector
> 
> 
> 
> and as he says 'you need to push first and wiggle to free the wings. Only then will the extractor tool be able to depress the wings properly, enough to free the pin.'
> 
> There's also *lowfat's method in post #10377* a few posts back


Thank you so much. I ordered a MDPC pin remover, you think it's better than MNPC Tech's ?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Hello guys, I need some of your help.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_804_1030&products_id=37141
> 
> I Just bought one of that 24pin cable for my AX1200i PSU and I'm trying to remove the pins to re-sleeve some of the cords and I need to disassemble the cable to pass the cords individually on the acrylic on my build but the pin just don't come out, I'm using this tool http://mnpctech.com/pc-sleeving-psu-power-supply-atx-tool-white-black-pet-red-green-blue/pc-sleeve-tool.html but the pin just dont come out. I tryed on another PSUs and its so easy to pull out the pin but with this corsair they seem stuck.
> 
> Any tips?
> 
> Thanks


try with two staples like my pics show on the previous page. IMHO all pin removers suck.


----------



## smithydan

Hey guys, not sure if this was asked already but what tool would I need or how do I go about getting one of these sleeved? Thanks.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21868/cab-1920/USB_30_20-Pin_Internal_Header_Female_to_Male_Adapter_Cable_-_Low_Profile.html?tl=g2#blank


----------



## jeanspaulo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Sadly it's not a very good ATX Pin Remover and is likely to break fairly quickly.
> 
> Make sure that you push the wire back up into the housing then press down the tool to make sure the tangs are depressed. Also pull the wire straight when removing it and you may need to 'wiggle' the wire first. You may need more force than you think to remove the pin but there's also a risk of the wire coming out of the pin.
> 
> WiSKs wonderful picture shows the pin inside the connector
> 
> 
> 
> and as he says 'you need to push first and wiggle to free the wings. Only then will the extractor tool be able to depress the wings properly, enough to free the pin.'
> 
> There's also *lowfat's method in post #10377* a few posts back


It just happened with me: " but there's also a risk of the wire coming out of the pin." how could I remve the pin without the wire?


----------



## Big Elf

You can buy Lutro0s *Stuck Pin Remover* or alternatively use a Bobby Pin/Hair Grip and trim it to make your own pin remover. Stick the cut down Bobby Pin down each side of the pin using pliers to grip it to depress each 'tang' on the pin and the pin should easily push out.


----------



## iamkraine

Sorry if I missed this somewhere in the thread but how do I remove stuck pins that where separated from the wire in the connector?


----------



## Big Elf

See my post at #10388


----------



## kpoeticg

Usually by the time the wire rips outta the pin, i just stick a small screwdriver in there and push it out since i don't have to worry about damaging the pin anymore


----------



## Big Elf

It's possible to damage the housing to the point where the locking tangs won't hold the pin in place so it's better to try and get them out without that risk.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well once the wires out of the pin, you can press it from both sides with a screwdriver til it comes out. If i'm willing to wrap the wire around my finger and pull hard enough for it rip outta the pin, it means i'm "positive" that the wings are depressed. So usually a screwdriver will get it out pretty quickly for me. Maybe it's not good tho....

I generally have spare housings laying around, maybe that's why i'm not as nervous about it


----------



## SDMODNoob

So I am trying to make extensions for the first time, its pretty simple concept right? just straight pin for pin because its just an extension? Also anyone have tips on how to get the cable lengths as close to each other as possible? I thought I had it all good measuring them side by side then cutting. Crimped them and put them in connector and wow.... way off lol. Any tips on fixing that situation as well? I'm thinking my best option is to cut off one end and recrimp it and resleeve that side to equal it out.


----------



## Big Elf

The way I used do it was to create a template wire. Before using it and finally cutting it to length I used to stretch out the insulation otherwise it would gradually stretch as you measured off the wires, I then cut it to length. Now I use narrow diameter (1.8mm) brass rods as templates 'wires'.

Use a good quality automatic wire stripper to ensure you always strip off the right amount of insulation. I use a modified version of the *Knipex Self Adjusting Wire Strippers*. It's modified to strip off 3mm of insulation rather than 6mm.

If you pre-crimp the ATX pins you can then precisely align them on the wire before finally crimping.

Always bin any wires that are not perfect in length.


----------



## SDMODNoob

Ya had some gifted wires from Lutroos previous event and bought a set of crimpers/wire strippers from him to attempt an extension as I was not too happy w/ my previous PSU. Got a used 1300G2 off amazon and figured this time around I go with extensions to make porting between PSUs a lot easier.


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Nice looking case, I've always been fond of red & black myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm planning to do blue CCFL's behind all four of my monitors (bias lighting) I've not tried these personally, but you might want to look at
> 
> Here's my work in progress; I went with black and silver brushed aluminum and RGB lighting allows me to alter the interior color of the top case at will. I've mostly finished wiring up my interior lighting but I don't have a video of it yet. Just waiting on a warmer, not snowing, day so I can build my stereo rack and get to making all my cables.


Thank you! The case is a Cooler Master HAF 932. It was suppose to be the Advanced version with the all black interior but mine didn't come that way. I was going to paint it myself but I didn't feel like masking it to do it. I was originally going to paint the exterior blue (Ford Grabber Blue) instead of red,but the front fan came with a red led so I went with red. Plus my ccfl's are red. The red I used on the case is actually Dodge Viper Red. I need to buy another spray can of it though. I want to add a pin-stripe from the back of the case across the top of the window,follow it around and down,then run it across the bottom of where the case is pressed out where the side fan is. Also do the same on the other side of the case as the louvers are already painted.

I will definitely check out those links for sure.

You've got a nice looking case as well. I like the black and silver brushed aluminum look.









For those looking for pin removal tools you might want to check these out. I bought them both and they work pretty well. I bought the FrozenCPU Dual Head ATX Connector Removal Tool and the FrozenCPU Universal Molex Pin Remover. I bought my Universal Molex Pin Remover sleeved in red which I must say is really nice. Just putting these out there since theres some talk about tools.









http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3836/too-07/FrozenCPU_Dual_Head_ATX_Connector_Removal_Tool_ATX_4-pin_P4_6-pin_PCI-E_8-pin_Xeon_Auxiliary_3-pin_or_4-pin_Fan_Flop.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3691/slt-01/FrozenCPU_Universal_Molex_Pin_Remover.html


----------



## Jixr

Here is a change of pace for you guys ( who mostly deal with PSU's )

I'm a huge mechanical keyboard fan, and I use one of my extra keyboards ( custom Quickfire Rapid ) with my ipad for writing with my blog.

Created a custom length cable and sleeved it. ( mini usb to usb ) just thought i would share.

tell me what you guys think.




( sorry I don't have a macro lens for some more detailed shots )


----------



## lowfat

I had no idea you could connect a USB keyboard to an ipad. Does it work just like a Bluetooth one? Where it works with all apps?


----------



## Jixr

Pretty much. Not all keyboards work and some other items won't as well but a powered USB hub will fix that. ( ipad can only put out so much power )

Just need the camera connection kit $30.

You can also connect flash drives and other media storage units to import photos videos and more. Easy way to have tons of movies for your ipad without eating storage space.


----------



## kpoeticg

An OTG USB Adapter/Cable will let you connect pretty much any usb device to any phone/tablet.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Hey guys, not sure if this was asked already but what tool would I need or how do I go about getting one of these sleeved? Thanks.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21868/cab-1920/USB_30_20-Pin_Internal_Header_Female_to_Male_Adapter_Cable_-_Low_Profile.html?tl=g2#blank


The 20pin low profile connector de-pins just like the USB/KK connectors (aka 2pin power/reset/led) - there's a tab you have to lift up a tiny bit to pull out the pin (there's a raised square on the female pin that catches on the tab.)



If you're buying pins in case you break one, get the 2mm height ones (not the standard USB/KK 2.56mm) as the low profile connector is a hair shorter.


----------



## SDMODNoob

Attempted another set of extensions and lengths are messed up once again lol. I think I am going to give up on this adventure, sleeving a PSU was a lot easier. Anyone know of a place or anyone who does repair/extensions services in Southern California? I can provide the sleeving/pins and whatever wire I got left. Just need to get an estimate of how much they want for the job.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> The 20pin low profile connector de-pins just like the USB/KK connectors (aka 2pin power/reset/led) - there's a tab you have to lift up a tiny bit to pull out the pin (there's a raised square on the female pin that catches on the tab.)
> 
> 
> 
> If you're buying pins in case you break one, get the 2mm height ones (not the standard USB/KK 2.56mm) as the low profile connector is a hair shorter.


Ah, thanks a lot


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> Attempted another set of extensions and lengths are messed up once again lol. I think I am going to give up on this adventure, sleeving a PSU was a lot easier. Anyone know of a place or anyone who does repair/extensions services in Southern California? I can provide the sleeving/pins and whatever wire I got left. Just need to get an estimate of how much they want for the job.


You could always check the FAQ in this forum


----------



## lowfat




----------



## iBored




----------



## abirli

wanted to share some of my sleeved photos.

24 pin murdered out 12" extension with that rainbow bend!

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abi...9-4D69-A6E4-D43A8575E16E_zpsrt5l7mlt.jpg.html

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abi...6-42C8-88E9-A5F766368C62_zpsktigajgn.jpg.html

Corsair AP or SP Fans

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abi...6-4883-BC00-C1905BF5EB2A_zpsms2fkcte.jpg.html
http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abi...C-45AF-B64F-B51F4CEE89E4_zpsziknta3n.jpg.html
http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abi...8-4C99-87BB-D6489A2155E3_zps1pmy3uu8.jpg.html


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> wanted to share some of my sleeved photos.
> 
> 24 pin murdered out 12" extension with that rainbow bend!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abi...9-4D69-A6E4-D43A8575E16E_zpsrt5l7mlt.jpg.html
> 
> http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abi...6-42C8-88E9-A5F766368C62_zpsktigajgn.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Corsair AP or SP Fans
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abi...6-4883-BC00-C1905BF5EB2A_zpsms2fkcte.jpg.html
> http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abi...C-45AF-B64F-B51F4CEE89E4_zpsziknta3n.jpg.html
> http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abi...8-4C99-87BB-D6489A2155E3_zps1pmy3uu8.jpg.html


Awesome sleeving both of you! Lowfat, you need a window to show off that back panel


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Lowfat, you need a window to show off that back panel


There will be one.


----------



## longroadtrip

Finally got the USB 3.0 parts in today...going to be putting a guide up this week on how to make various USB 3.0 cables...

http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/longroadtrip/media/IMG_5732_zps18cc60d2.jpg.html


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Finally got the USB 3.0 parts in today...going to be putting a guide up this week on how to make various USB 3.0 cables...
> 
> http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/longroadtrip/media/IMG_5732_zps18cc60d2.jpg.html


Would like to see that









I have some of those pins and housings, but never tried them. IIRC Big Elf said you need a smaller crimper than even for fans?


----------



## longroadtrip

My understanding is that you don't...just looking at them, they aren't much smaller than standard dupont terminals...they are 2.00 mm vs. 2.54 mm


----------



## Big Elf

It's a while since I did some USB/Motherboard pins so just tried it again. If I crimp the pins with either the MDPC-X or Lutro0s Tool the they won't fit in the housing and it's the insulation crimp that's stopping it going in. It could be a problem with the pins or housings I'm using but they do work fine if I use the 1.6mm crimp on the Molex Hand Tool.


----------



## longroadtrip

Good to know Big Elf...Fortunately, I happen to have the Molex tool as well...


----------



## vilius572

Hi guys! Is it worth to sleeve all psu cables (Corsair AX860) or just buy sleeved cable kit from corsair? Btw my psu are fully modular. Or maybe someone from this forum can sleeve them to me?


----------



## roflcopter159

I think that doing it yourself is the better option as long as you have the time to do it. In my opinion, the sleeved kit from Corsair doesn't look that great. There is a huge amount of heatshrink on the cables. Also, doing it yourself you can customize the sleeving to however you want, the kit only has one color for all of the cables. Plus, doing it yourself gives the satisfaction of saying "Yup, I did that. Isn't it awesome?"


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roflcopter159*
> 
> I think that doing it yourself is the better option as long as you have the time to do it. In my opinion, the sleeved kit from Corsair doesn't look that great. There is a huge amount of heatshrink on the cables. Also, doing it yourself you can customize the sleeving to however you want, the kit only has one color for all of the cables. Plus, doing it yourself gives the satisfaction of saying "Yup, I did that. Isn't it awesome?"


I think that to sleeve cables myself is the best way too but I have never did that before and I'm afraid to ruin the cables because I don't have spare ones







Here is my rig and I think cables with black, white and red will look best. But what will look best in your opinion? Btw later on I will get custom watercooling. Coolant will be red or white but I have not decided yet.


----------



## lowfat

Expect to spend a lot of money if you were to pay someone to make the cables for you. It can be a lot of work.


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Expect to spend a lot of money if you were to pay someone to make the cables for you. It can be a lot of work.


Yes ofcourse I would pay because I know that it's pain in ass to make them. But I don't want to spend more that corsair sleeved cable kit cost. Here in Norway Corsair sleeved cables kit cost around 105$.


----------



## roflcopter159

That color scheme would definitely look good. Also, the good thing about corsair psus is that they sell replacement cables in case you mess one up.


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roflcopter159*
> 
> That color scheme would definitely look good. Also, the good thing about corsair psus is that they sell replacement cables in case you mess one up.


I know that but when I have so much experience on sleeving I gonna mess up cables anyway







so I was thinking just to buy corsair sleeved ones but if I want with custom colors the I must sleeve them self







I use white sleeved extensions right now but I want fully sleeved cables. How about these custom sleeved kits on ebay? They are pretty expensive but I like them anyway.

Also I found pretty cheap sleeve but only in white and blue 12.29$ per 31 meter! http://dx.com/p/3mm-pet-expandable-braided-sleeving-white-31m-197291 http://dx.com/p/3mm-pet-expandable-braided-sleeving-blue-31m-197292


----------



## vilius572

What kind off cable sleeve do I need? 3mm or 4mm

Btw are these any good? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mix-Color-Expandable-Braided-DENSE-PET-Sleeving-Cable-3-weave-High-densely-Diy-/251299091666?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&var=&hash=item3a8297d4d2


----------



## vilius572

Guys? How I gonna deal with sata and molex cables if I want to sleeve them too? Can I just rip them apart?


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> Guys? How I gonna deal with sata and molex cables if I want to sleeve them too? Can I just rip them apart?


Just make new ones..simple enough...


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> I think that to sleeve cables myself is the best way too but I have never did that before and I'm afraid to ruin the cables because I don't have spare ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my rig and I think cables with black, white and red will look best. But what will look best in your opinion? Btw later on I will get custom watercooling. Coolant will be red or white but I have not decided yet.


A 100 feet of wire cost like $20, all the spare wire you need. Now all the other tools&#8230; not so cheap, but you will need them anyway if you are going to sleeve cables.


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> A 100 feet of wire cost like $20, all the spare wire you need. Now all the other tools&#8230; not so cheap, but you will need them anyway if you are going to sleeve cables.


But what exactly tools do I need?


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> But what exactly tools do I need?


You will definitely need a crimper capable of doing ATX pins. There are specially milled ATX crimpers which are about $50 a piece, and there are general purpose crimpers of various quality between $10 and $70. If it's $10, it's probably garbage.
You will need flush cutters: $10-$20 will do for that.
You will need either an ATX pin removal tool: $10-$15 or two industrial staples and a file (to thin them down).
Wire cutter-stripper: $10-$15 can get you a decent solution.
A handful of ATX pins: 7 cents a piece or somewhere about, I think I used about 30-40 for my EVGA Nova 2 1300w PSU and I still need to work two cables and will probably end up putting another 10 pins on top of that, since one of these cables is doubled-up, so I need to repin all the terminals on one end.
You MAY need a soldering station or just a soldering iron, which would land you another $40-$80, but you may be able to borrow one from somewhere or if you have some at school do it there.
Heatgun: $25-$50 will do you well.
Heatshrink: $1-$2 per foot.
Paracord/sleeving, but you already knew about it.

Without paracord/sleeving you are looking at $70 to $150 in tools, and I would not cheap out on any of them, especially crimper, because crimping pins with the el-cheapo crimper made me throw away 1 in 10 pins.


----------



## lowfat

You don't need a crimper or a heatgun if he is just sleeving. You can easily use a lighter instead.


----------



## vilius572

Whoa! That's way to expensive. Don't forget that I gonna sleeve only 24pin, 2x 6-8pin, 4+4pin, 2x SATA, and maybe later some more 6-8pin if I buy another gpu. I saw some guys on youtube that only use hot air gun or lighter, heatshrink and homemade or cheap pin removal. I gonna not make new cables, only sleeve these I have.

So if you see, I don't want to spend so much money on tools if you can just use cheaper.


----------



## kpoeticg

You just listed a pretty standard PSU sleeving job. That definitely shouldn't have "only" in front of it









With sleeving, IMNO (In My N00bly Opinion), saving money on tools is likely to cost you more time and more money on extra sleeving, heatshrink, wire, and pins. It's absolutely possible to do it the way @lowfat mentions, but he's kinda like our own little sleeving MacGuyver. I bet he could do it with a toothpick and a roll of toilet paper if he was really backed into a corner









If you're definitely planning on just sleeving the stock cables, i recommend just buying a good ATX Pin Remover. If you're only gonna be crimping pins that get damaged in the process then you can save some money and get a cheap non-ratchet crimper. The 15-20 dollar atx tool will help keep that number of damaged pins down. A lighter can definitely replace a heatgun. Scissors can replace the flush cutter. And you can get away with cheap wire strippers.

Just make sure that you have the pinout for your PSU before you do this. Most people keep their stock cables for reference since most PSU's aren't 1:1. You need to know which wire goes where before you remove them from the connector.


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You just listed a pretty standard PSU sleeving job. That definitely shouldn't have "only" in front of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With sleeving, IMNO (In My N00bly Opinion), saving money on tools is likely to cost you more time and more money on extra sleeving, heatshrink, wire, and pins. It's absolutely possible to do it the way @lowfat
> mentions, but he's kinda like our own little sleeving MacGuyver. I bet he could do it with a toothpick and a roll of toilet paper if he was really backed into a corner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're definitely planning on just sleeving the stock cables, i recommend just buying a good ATX Pin Remover. If you're only gonna be crimping pins that get damaged in the process then you can save some money and get a cheap non-ratchet crimper. The 15-20 dollar atx tool will help keep that number of damaged pins down. A lighter can definitely replace a heatgun. Scissors can replace the flush cutter. And you can get away with cheap wire strippers.
> 
> Just make sure that you have the pinout for your PSU before you do this. Most people keep their stock cables for reference since most PSU's aren't 1:1. You need to know which wire goes where before you remove them from the connector.


I gonna not sleeve my cables of toilet paper but I don't want to spend a lot on psu cables anyway







I was thinking to not spend more than 80$. I gonna definitely use scissors and lighter. Btw I gonna remove only one wire at the time so I gonna know where it's suppose to be. And can you send me a link of tools you think I might need? Like a ATX Pin Remover? But not crappy one please


----------



## kpoeticg

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve-kits-tools/sleeve-tools/pin-remover-by-molex-the-original.htm

Since you live in Norway (which i think is nearish to Germany) i recommend getting pins from there too. I definitely recommend having a bag of ATX Pins handy in case any get damaged in the process.

He also sells top quality sleeving & heatshrink


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve-kits-tools/sleeve-tools/pin-remover-by-molex-the-original.htm
> 
> Since you live in Norway (which i think is nearish to Germany) i recommend getting pins from there too. I definitely recommend having a bag of ATX Pins handy in case any get damaged in the process.
> 
> He also sells top quality sleeving & heatshrink


So I just calculated the price and it was 80 euros.







Things that including this price is : Pin Removal. 2 kits of black sleeve (33ft.) 2 kits of red sleeve (33 ft.) 2 kits of white sleeve (33ft.) pre-cutted heatshrink 3 sets of white, black and red colors and crimp contacts for pins if something goes wrong. Maybe there is something that I have missed ?


----------



## kpoeticg

You mentioned something about Sata cables earlier. Might as well order that sleeving now too and save some shipping costs. Also figure out how you're gonna crimp the terminals on when the time comes. Don't just wait til you're in the middle of sleeving and a pin breaks to figure it out.

Nils' (MDPC) Crimper is one of the top 2 recommended versions for cable modding. Lutro (LC Customs) being the other. Just food for thought. I know it's expensive, but that's the number one thing preventing you from being able to just make all your cables yourself without frustrating yourself crazy


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You mentioned something about Sata cables earlier. Might as well order that sleeving now too and save some shipping costs. Also figure out how you're gonna crimp the terminals on when the time comes. Don't just wait til you're in the middle of sleeving and a pin breaks to figure it out.
> 
> Nils' (MDPC) Crimper is one of the top 2 recommended versions for cable modding. Lutro (LC Customs) being the other. Just food for thought. I know it's expensive, but that's the number one thing preventing you from being able to just make all your cables yourself without frustrating yourself crazy


I think all of this stuff gonna be over the budget. Btw my friend sleeved cables for he's rig and he said f*ck all those sleeve. He used also mdpc stuff. He said that this is only time waisting, BUT I don't belive him







And what if I buy this kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/Top-Quality-Custom-sleeved-cables-for-Corsair-AX1200i-AX760i-AX860i-/161164928550?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25862da626


----------



## kpoeticg

I was gonna recommend that you buy extensions the first time i replied, only reason i didn't is cuz you mentioned you already had extensions.

When it comes to sleeving, there's the top 3-5 companies, then there's everything else.

MDPC is definitely one of those top brands. If you're gonna sleeve, go with top quality sleeving or go with paracord. Otherwise just buy extensions cuz the final result almost definitely won't be worth the effort you put into it

Nothing wrong with just grabbing extensions though. If you like the color scheme, i say go for it









Just make sure the pinout is correct for your specific PSU!!!

Edit: Also, don't be discouraged because i mentioned the crimper. If you're planning on just sleeving your stock cables and never needing a crimper again, then your plan is logical. Alot of people like the freedom of being able to make their own cables from scratch for absolutely anything that needs em. If you're just gonna sleeve over your cables and be done with it, i say just stick with your plan....or get extensions


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I was gonna recommend that you buy extensions the first time i replied, only reason i didn't is cuz you mentioned you already had extensions.
> 
> When it comes to sleeving, there's the top 3-5 companies, then there's everything else.
> 
> MDPC is definitely one of those top brands. If you're gonna sleeve, go with top quality sleeving or go with paracord. Otherwise just buy extensions cuz the final result almost definitely won't be worth the effort you put into it
> 
> Nothing wrong with just grabbing extensions though. If you like the color scheme, i say go for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just make sure the pinout is correct for your specific PSU!!!
> 
> Edit: Also, don't be discouraged because i mentioned the crimper. If you're planning on just sleeving your stock cables and never needing a crimper again, then your plan is logical. Alot of people like the freedom of being able to make their own cables from scratch for absolutely anything that needs em. If you're just gonna sleeve over your cables and be done with it, i say just stick with your plan....or get extensions


No more extensions!







Only fully sleeved cables for me. How about this sleeve? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mix-Color-Expandable-Braided-DENSE-PET-Sleeving-Cable-3-weave-High-densely-Diy-/251299091666?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&var=&hash=item3a8297d4d2


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> I think all of this stuff gonna be over the budget. Btw my friend sleeved cables for he's rig and he said f*ck all those sleeve. He used also mdpc stuff. He said that this is only time waisting, BUT I don't belive him
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what if I buy this kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/Top-Quality-Custom-sleeved-cables-for-Corsair-AX1200i-AX760i-AX860i-/161164928550?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25862da626


^^Same thing as extensions...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> No more extensions!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only fully sleeved cables for me. How about this sleeve? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mix-Color-Expandable-Braided-DENSE-PET-Sleeving-Cable-3-weave-High-densely-Diy-/251299091666?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&var=&hash=item3a8297d4d2


If you're gonna put the time and effort in to sleeve your PSU, don't buy cheap see-through sleeving.

Not-See-Thru Sleeving in Europe = MDPC-X (Germany) LC-Customs (from E22 in GB) Sleeve-Modding.com (Romania)

Anything else, you should just buy extensions.........OR Paracord. Paracord can look great and is extremely affordable. Like you can do your whole PSU for 10-20 bux probly


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> ^^Same thing as extensions...
> 
> If you're gonna put the time and effort in to sleeve your PSU, don't buy cheap see-through sleeving.
> Not-See-Thru Sleeving in Europe = MDPC-X (Germany) LC-Customs (from E22 in GB) Sleeve-Modding.com (Romania)
> 
> Anything else, you should just buy extensions.........OR Paracord. Paracord can look great and is extremely affordable. Like you can do your whole PSU for 10-20 bux probly


You know what? I gonna try to make a challange for my self , and will try to sleeve psu for under 60$


----------



## vilius572

Btw if I buy 3 kits of 10m/33ft. 30m/99ft together, will it be enough to sleeve 24pin, 2x -6/8pin and 4+4pin?


----------



## kpoeticg

Easy to find out. Measure you're 24Pin & multiply the length by the number of cables in it. Standard 24Pin has 23 cables. Some PSU's are different tho...

Same thing with your other cables. If you wanna know how much you need for your 8Pin, just measure the length of the cable and multiply times 8.

You'll wanna get some extra too for learning curve


----------



## Jameswalt1

E22 cable combs


----------



## JAM3S121

nice photo!

Does anyone sleeve sata cables nicely? I can't do it.. pm me


----------



## kpoeticg

Great pic James.

I haven't ordered mine from FCPU or Lutro yet, but i'll be getting those for all my cables too


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Easy to find out. Measure you're 24Pin & multiply the length by the number of cables in it. Standard 24Pin has 23 cables. Some PSU's are different tho...
> 
> Same thing with your other cables. If you wanna know how much you need for your 8Pin, just measure the length of the cable and multiply times 8.
> 
> You'll wanna get some extra too for learning curve


Alright. I was thinking same way. Here is the length of my cables : http://www.corsair.com/us/media/cms/manual/DC_Cable_consolidation_Rev_28.pdf I use AX860 as you know. Can someone calculate this for me?







Because if I calculate it will be wrong







I gonna buy 30m/99ft. of sleeve.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You don't need a crimper or a heatgun if he is just sleeving. You can easily use a lighter instead.


Maybe, I had two pins inappropriately attached to wires in my stock cables (to the point where the wire would go loose by just pulling it, and the pin remained inside the connector. If you are sleeving doubled-up wires, I don't see a way around depinning your cables, and there's always the risk of running into caps - messy. My old habit of only considering the worst-case scenario.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> I gonna not sleeve my cables of toilet paper but I don't want to spend a lot on psu cables anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking to not spend more than 80$. I gonna definitely use scissors and lighter. Btw I gonna remove only one wire at the time so I gonna know where it's suppose to be. And can you send me a link of tools you think I might need? Like a ATX Pin Remover? But not crappy one please


If you're going to sleeve one wire at a time, do not forget to mark the empty holes in the connector first. I stuck a twisty-tie trough each of the empty holes and twisted it with itself. Just inspect every connector before you remove a wire from it.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You don't need a crimper or a heatgun if he is just sleeving. You can easily use a lighter instead.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe, I had two pins inappropriately attached to wires in my stock cables (to the point where the wire would go loose by just pulling it, and the pin remained inside the connector. If you are sleeving doubled-up wires, I don't see a way around depinning your cables, and there's always the risk of running into caps - messy. My old habit of only considering the worst-case scenario.
Click to expand...

Well running into caps isn't really a "risk" per se, because you're either buying a PSU that comes with caps on the cables or your not LOL

Lowfat uses industrial staples as a pin remover. That's why he said that.

It's not hard to find out about dbl wires and caps before you pick your PSU. It's all about what's important to you. I wouldn't wanna even think about dbl wires without my soldering station though. I wouldn't wanna picture sleeving without my LC Ratchet Crimper either tho. To each his own....


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> Alright. I was thinking same way. Here is the length of my cables : http://www.corsair.com/us/media/cms/manual/DC_Cable_consolidation_Rev_28.pdf I use AX860 as you know. Can someone calculate this for me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because if I calculate it will be wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gonna buy 30m/99ft. of sleeve.


,
as i calculated 60 meters for corsair hx 850 v1.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> ,
> as i calculated 60 meters for corsair hx 850 v1.


Maybe if you sleeved every single wire the PSU come with. And even then I think 60 is overshooting it by a lot. A normal setup likely uses half that.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Maybe if you sleeved every single wire the PSU come with. And even then I think 60 is overshooting it by a lot. A normal setup likely uses half that.


4x pci-e cable:1920cm
1x 8pin cable:520cm
1 x24pin cable:16000cm
3x sata power cable:1200cm which are corsair modular ones
2x ide power cable:640cm
total:5880cm.
so you are saying 30 meters enough?


----------



## kpoeticg

Well the specs he said a 24Pin, 2x8+6Pin, and a 4+4Pin. That should be 59 wires altogether. So i'm guessing he wants all his cables to be one Meter?


----------



## vilius572

No no guys







1. I want all my cables gonna be original length 2. I'm gonna not make new cables, I will use these I have 3. I will only sleeve 24pin, 2x 6/8pin and 4+4pin. That's it.

Can someone say, are 30m/99ft. enough for only these cables I will to sleeve? 24pin, 2x 6/8pin and 4+4pin


----------



## kpoeticg

We can't answer that without you telling us the length of the cables...

Once you know the length of the cables and your PSU pinout, it'll take 30 seconds to figure out....

Edit: Okay....

24Pin 610mm 
EPS 650mm
PCI-E 2x600mm & 2x600+750mm
Sata 400,500,600,700mm
Peripheral 450,550,650,750mm

OK, so right off the bat i see a huge problem for your plan. The AX860's 24Pin is 24Pin => 10Pin + 18Pin. That means you have dbl wires. That pretty much takes just "sleeving over" your wires right off the table.


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> We can't answer that without you telling us the length of the cables...
> 
> Once you know the length of the cables and your PSU pinout, it'll take 30 seconds to figure out....
> 
> Edit: Okay....
> 24Pin 610mm
> 
> EPS 650mm
> 
> PCI-E 2x600mm & 2x600+750mm
> 
> Sata 400,500,600,700mm
> 
> Peripheral 450,550,650,750mm
> 
> OK, so right off the bat i see a huge problem for your plan. The AX860's 24Pin is 24Pin => 10Pin + 18Pin. That means you have dbl wires. That pretty much takes just "sleeving over" your wires right off the table.


I will find out when I come back home later


----------



## kpoeticg

EPS = 650mm x 8 (4+4) = 5.2M
PCIE = 600mm x 28 (8+6 x 2) = 16.8M

ATX = 610mm x 28 (10 + 18) = 17.08M

Equals

39.08M

That 24Pin changes everything tho. I can't imagine how your gonna do dbl cables without crimping and soldering


----------



## vilius572

Okey. So that's mean I need even more cable.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah but with double cables, you can't sleeve over them. You have a cable from your 24Pin being split into 2 seperate connectors on your PSU Side. It's too complicated to do it how you planned it. You'd be doing yourself a favor just buying extensions or Pre-Sleeved cables for your PSU pinout. I think 10 + 18 is a fairly common Seasonic 24Pin setup so you might luck-out if you search for a pre-sleeved 24Pin


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah but with double cables, you can't sleeve over them. You have a cable from your 24Pin being split into 2 seperate connectors on your PSU Side. It's too complicated to do it how you planned it. You'd be doing yourself a favor just buying extensions or Pre-Sleeved cables for your PSU pinout. I think 10 + 18 is a fairly common Seasonic 24Pin setup so you might luck-out if you search for a pre-sleeved 24Pin


When I come home, will I look up that 24pin cable. I think there is no big problem to sleeve them.


----------



## kpoeticg

There's no big problem to sleeve them. That's correct.

But there's also no way to sleeve them the way you were planning.


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> There's no big problem to sleeve them. That's correct.
> 
> But there's also no way to sleeve them the way you were planning.


What plan do you mean? Btw look at this picture. I want to sleeve like this but not the same color as tjis one.


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> There's no big problem to sleeve them. That's correct.
> 
> But there's also no way to sleeve them the way you were planning.


What plan do you mean? Btw look at this picture. I want to sleeve like this but not the same color as this one.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> But there's also no way to sleeve them the way you were planning.


Of course you can sleeve factory double cables. This was done for years before Nils popularised the use of the crimper.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Of course you can sleeve factory double cables. This was done for years before Nils popularised the use of the crimper.


He wants to sleeve his PSU on a tight budget. So his solution was to just buy sleeving, de-pin the connectors, and sleeve the stock cables. He can't really afford a good crimper and all the other necessary tools for a sleeving job. The only tool he's planning on buying is the ATX Pin Remover. I don't see how that plan is possible now that we know his 24Pin is a 24 to 10 + 18Pin.

I'm sure if anybody can figure it out, it would be you, BE, or lowfat tho. I just can't picture how that would be possible...


----------



## HeyBear

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> He wants to sleeve his PSU on a tight budget. So his solution was to just buy sleeving, de-pin the connectors, and sleeve the stock cables. He can't really afford a good crimper and all the other necessary tools for a sleeving job. The only tool he's planning on buying is the ATX Pin Remover. I don't see how that plan is possible now that we know his 24Pin is a 24 to 10 + 18Pin.
> 
> I'm sure if anybody can figure it out, it would be you, BE, or lowfat tho. I just can't picture how that would be possible...






Was just about to say I think Lutro0 mentions it in his double wire video guide briefly, but remembered he was talking about the 4 pin molex wires. Is there enough room to sleeve double wire ATX pins without it looking completely out of place?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> ... all the other necessary tools for a sleeving job


The only things you need to sleeve cables is sleeve, heatshrink, a knife or scissors, staples and a lighter/hairdryer. This is how people did it before 2007. All the other stuff makes it easier to get good results, but is not "necessary". Since you can get paracord for little, and the tools you should have at home, then good quality thin-walled heatshrink is the thing you should spend money on.

Anyway, to get the sleeve on a double crimp there's two methods. If you want heatshrinkless with plastic sleeving you do this:

   

Or if you have paracord, you have to leave the shrink on there. You sleeve up to the double crimp and then put a larger piece of shrink over the pin which holds the two bits of sleeve.

Can't find a picture of that last one I'm afraid. Something like this, but take a bit more care and it can look nicer.


----------



## vilius572

I don' t really understand what problem do you mean. I personally think there will be no problem to sleeve it because all cables look very simple to sleeve. There is no double cables or something like that.


----------



## WiSK

Also, for a laugh, check this from 10 years ago http://www.overclock.net/t/2691/psu-sleeving-guide


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> I don' t really understand what problem do you mean. I personally think there will be no problem to sleeve it because all cables look very simple to sleeve. There is no double cables or something like that.


You have a 24Pin with 23 wires in it that plugs into your motherboard. The other end of that cable is 2 connectors, an 18Pin connector and a 10Pin connector. So 23 wires on one end, 28 wires on the other end. This is from double cables. In the 24Pin end of your cable you have a few pins that have 2 wires crimped in them. That is if you have the AX860 like you said.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Also, for a laugh, check this from 10 years ago http://www.overclock.net/t/2691/psu-sleeving-guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww. That's crazy. I'm not even gonna make any funny comments about it because that was probly an incredibly helpful thread back in the day. But WOWWW.
> I never knew there was ever actually a scene for people to sleeve with that stuff. I've only ever seen it on OEM stuff. Even to this day. That's one of the most PC Retro things i've seen in a longgggggg time


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You have a 24Pin with 23 wires in it that plugs into your motherboard. The other end of that cable is 2 connectors, an 18Pin connector and a 10Pin connector. So 23 wires on one end, 28 wires on the other end. This is from double cables. In the 24Pin end of your cable you have a few pins that have 2 wires crimped in them. That is if you have the AX860 like you said.


with that cable who goes from 1 to 2 is not a big deal.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> with that cable who goes from 1 to 2 is not a big deal.


Ok, i'm about to go to bed i'm literally about to pass out here. But just mentally walk yourself through this since crimping new pins on is a bit of an issue for you currently. You take a pin out that has 2 wires in it. You don't wanna cut the wire because you didn't buy a crimper. So you slide the sleeve over the wire at the single end. then the 2 wires go 2 seperate ways. How is that not an issue? Sorry if i'm sounding rude. I need to go to sleep. I'll check back here when i wake up. I'm sure the 100 people active in this thread that are smarter than me can help you work it out in the meantime tho. Good luck


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Ok, i'm about to go to bed i'm literally about to pass out here. But just mentally walk yourself through this since crimping new pins on is a bit of an issue for you currently. You take a pin out that has 2 wires in it. You don't wanna cut the wire because you didn't buy a crimper. So you slide the sleeve over the wire at the single end. then the 2 wires go 2 seperate ways. How is that not an issue? Sorry if i'm sounding rude. I need to go to sleep. I'll check back here when i wake up. I'm sure the 100 people active in this thread that are smarter than me can help you work it out in the meantime tho. Good luck


Thanks mate!


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Ok, i'm about to go to bed i'm literally about to pass out here. But just mentally walk yourself through this since crimping new pins on is a bit of an issue for you currently. You take a pin out that has 2 wires in it. You don't wanna cut the wire because you didn't buy a crimper. So you slide the sleeve over the wire at the single end. then the 2 wires go 2 seperate ways. How is that not an issue? Sorry if i'm sounding rude. I need to go to sleep. I'll check back here when i wake up. I'm sure the 100 people active in this thread that are smarter than me can help you work it out in the meantime tho. Good luck


I will do like this


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Ok, i'm about to go to bed i'm literally about to pass out here. But just mentally walk yourself through this since crimping new pins on is a bit of an issue for you currently. You take a pin out that has 2 wires in it. You don't wanna cut the wire because you didn't buy a crimper. So you slide the sleeve over the wire at the single end. then the 2 wires go 2 seperate ways. How is that not an issue? Sorry if i'm sounding rude. I need to go to sleep. I'll check back here when i wake up. I'm sure the 100 people active in this thread that are smarter than me can help you work it out in the meantime tho. Good luck


Sleeve from the other end? Even though it's a double crimp at the 24pin terminal, the two wires terminate at two single points on the 18/10 terminal. I'm probably missing something obvious...


----------



## kpoeticg

Then a decent crimper is a highly advisable purchase. That was kinda my whole point about it being problematic for you. Dbl & Triple wires are gonna require you to recrimp no matter what and solder if you go with the other method

Sorry, i'm not trying to discourage you from anything. Just wanna make sure that you can do it the way you're picturing in your head.

I"m seriously out this time tho. I NEED SLEEEP


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Sleeve from the other end? Even though it's a double crimp at the 24pin terminal, the two wires terminate at two single points on the 18/10 terminal. I'm probably missing something obvious...


Yes I will try to sleeve them from other end.


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Then a decent crimper is a highly advisable purchase. That was kinda my whole point about it being problematic for you. Dbl & Triple wires are gonna require you to recrimp no matter what and solder if you go with the other method
> 
> Sorry, i'm not trying to discourage you from anything. Just wanna make sure that you can do it the way you're picturing in your head.
> 
> I"m seriously out this time tho. I NEED SLEEEP


Okey. What if I have crimper but not these metal pins that goes on cable? Do I need to buy them or I can re-use old ones?


----------



## kpoeticg

If you take a pin/wire out of a molex connector, you can reinsert it in a molex connector. You can't reuse pins tho on more than one wire. Pins aren't expensive. If you buy Lutro's LC Customs crimper, he sends you 100 free ATX pins with it (that's still going on right? ) That's why Crimpers are a sleevers/modders best friend. Everything iis connected with pins. Once a pins cut off or breaks off theres no more use for it. You need to crimp another one on.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> If you take a pin/wire out of a molex connector, you can reinsert it in a molex connector. You can't reuse pins tho on more than one wire. Pins aren't expensive. If you buy Lutro's LC Customs crimper, he sends you 100 free ATX pins with it (that's still going on right? ) That's why Crimpers are a sleevers/modders best friend. Everything iis connected with pins. Once a pins cut off or breaks off theres no more use for it. You need to crimp another one on.


You don't need a crimper! Missed my post explaining how easy it is? http://www.overclock.net/t/662039/cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion/10460#post_21594644

Get some sleep


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> That 24Pin changes everything tho. I can't imagine how your gonna do dbl cables without crimping and soldering


Cut the wires in the middle and make a Y cable. Yes a soldering iron is needed. But doesn't everyone have one of these? Cheap ones can be had for $10.


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Cut the wires in the middle and make a Y cable. Yes a soldering iron is needed. But doesn't everyone have one of these? Cheap ones can be had for $10.


I have soldering iron


----------



## morencyam

Hey guy. I just saw that Lutro0 products are now being sold at FrozenCPU, which I'm sure isn't news to anyone here. But looking through all the Lutro0 products, I found these Cable Combs. I'm real interested in them and think I might buy a few, but am wondering if anyone here as used them or has any pictures of them in use so I can get an idea of how many to buy of each size. Thanks


----------



## kpoeticg

Damnit, i just saw somebody post a pic of them the other day in a build log. My subscriptions page is like 8 pages long tho. I'll try to remember and link the pic if nobody else responds.

I know they keep the 2 layers of cables kind of separated a little far apart.. Probly a matter of taste whether it's an issue or not. Seems like something that could easily be taken care of by using a Dremel or needle file to deepen the cable grooves. I think they look far better than any other solution tho. Except maybe the ones that @Gardnerphotos made. Those are real tight too

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You don't need a crimper! Missed my post explaining how easy it is? http://www.overclock.net/t/662039/cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion/10460#post_21594644
> 
> Get some sleep


I actually have your original post/guide on how to do that bookmarked in my Tutorials bookmarks folder from a few months ago









it's been a while since i checked it though. I didn't really read through your post last night cuz i've read your guide a few times and i was exhausted. I thought that you crimped the 2nd wire a little behind the front wire in that method. I must've been mistaken since it's been a while since i read it

And yeah, i felt like a zombie when i was typing last night. Sorry









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> I have soldering iron


Sorry, you're lack of interest in owning a crimper made me not even consider that you had a soldering iron. A soldering iron leaves a world of possibilities open when you're creative, so i understand why you didn't see the complication last night. I was just overtired. Sorry if i seemed difficult. Promise i was just trying to help =)


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Damnit, i just saw somebody post a pic of them the other day in a build log. My subscriptions page is like 8 pages long tho. I'll try to remember and link the pic if nobody else responds.
> 
> I know they keep the 2 layers of cables kind of separated a little far apart.. Probly a matter of taste whether it's an issue or not. Seems like something that could easily be taken care of by using a Dremel or needle file to deepen the cable grooves. I think they look far better than any other solution tho. Except maybe the ones that @Gardnerphotos
> made. Those are real tight too


I have my pages set to 100 posts per page and went back 5 or 6 pages and really only saw the ones Gardner, which look basically identical to the Lutro0 ones, had and I like them. Jameswalt posted a pic of the E22 combs, which again I think are the same as the Litro0 combs, but it was really only a sample photo and really didn't show them in use in a final build.

My biggest question is just how many to get per cable. I was thinking 4 for each maybe. I just want to see some how other people used them before making a final decision though.

I'll probably do a combination of lowfat's clamp idea with the combs to keep everything nice a tidy.


----------



## kpoeticg

The cable combs are a collabo between E22 & Lutro.

And you're absolutely right. It's Jameswalt's pic i was thinking of too. The combs come in different sizes. Get the ones you need =P

I don't see these being used for stuff that's not gonna be in the motherboard area.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I have my pages set to 100 posts per page and went back 5 or 6 pages and really only saw the ones Gardner, which look basically identical to the Lutro0 ones, had and I like them. Jameswalt posted a pic of the E22 combs, which again I think are the same as the Litro0 combs, but it was really only a sample photo and really didn't show them in use in a final build.
> 
> My biggest question is just how many to get per cable. I was thinking 4 for each maybe. I just want to see some how other people used them before making a final decision though.
> 
> I'll probably do a combination of lowfat's clamp idea with the combs to keep everything nice a tidy.


After playing with them extensively I can tell you that you probably only need like 2 max per cable. That span of straightness after each comb is quite long, I imagine only 1 will be visible per cable on the front side of my build when I install all of my cables over the next week. Here are some more pics I took (if you didn't see my build log). You can see in the second pic how straight it keeps the 24pin towards the connection from about 6 inches down the cable.

-



-

Here's the only one I have installed so far (left side of ram), it actually kept that 6pin waaay more organized than without it, not a very useful pic though:
-


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Damnit, i just saw somebody post a pic of them the other day in a build log. My subscriptions page is like 8 pages long tho. I'll try to remember and link the pic if nobody else responds.
> 
> I know they keep the 2 layers of cables kind of separated a little far apart.. Probly a matter of taste whether it's an issue or not. Seems like something that could easily be taken care of by using a Dremel or needle file to deepen the cable grooves. I think they look far better than any other solution tho. Except maybe the ones that @Gardnerphotos
> made. Those are real tight too
> 
> I actually have your original post/guide on how to do that bookmarked in my Tutorials bookmarks folder from a few months ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's been a while since i checked it though. I didn't really read through your post last night cuz i've read your guide a few times and i was exhausted. I thought that you crimped the 2nd wire a little behind the front wire in that method. I must've been mistaken since it's been a while since i read it
> 
> And yeah, i felt like a zombie when i was typing last night. Sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, you're lack of interest in owning a crimper made me not even consider that you had a soldering iron. A soldering iron leaves a world of possibilities open when you're creative, so i understand why you didn't see the complication last night. I was just overtired. Sorry if i seemed difficult. Promise i was just trying to help =)


No problem mate


----------



## Gardnerphotos

E22/Lutro0's ones seem to spread the cables out too much IMO, I hadnt noticed it until Jameswalt posted his photos of them, I preferred the cable spacing on mine but they were way too fragile and just snapped.


----------



## abirli

I agree, too far spread IMO.

Psu seasonic p1000w has 2 double wire per 12 connector, makes for a long sleeve job


----------



## kpoeticg

I'd imagine you could fix the spacing by widening the cable grooves with a dremel or needle file. I haven't grabbed mine yet so don't really know how sturdy they are, that's what i've been planning to do with mine when i get em tho.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> After playing with them extensively I can tell you that you probably only need like 2 max per cable. That span of straightness after each comb is quite long, I imagine only 1 will be visible per cable on the front side of my build when I install all of my cables over the next week. Here are some more pics I took (if you didn't see my build log). You can see in the second pic how straight it keeps the 24pin towards the connection from about 6 inches down the cable.
> 
> -
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> 
> Here's the only one I have installed so far (left side of ram), it actually kept that 6pin waaay more organized than without it, not a very useful pic though:
> -
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for the additional pics James. I'll check out your build log too








So it looks like every 6 inches or so would work well. I'll probably only get one 24-pin power, one 8-pin power, and two for each GPU connector
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'd imagine you could fix the spacing by widening the cable grooves with a dremel or needle file. I haven't grabbed mine yet so don't really know how sturdy they are, that's what i've been planning to do with mine when i get em tho.


I think the only problem with widening the grooves is then the wires might be more prone to slide out of the grooves. The way I understand them is that the wire actually kind of snap into the grooves of the comb. I may be wrong though


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Ah, them grooves. I think we ought to consider the material first. @Gardnerphotos a few posts back said his let the wires a bit closer together and were too fragile for the task. I assume it is because the columns between grooves were too thin and could not support the tension.

Maybe aluminium will do better?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Ah, them grooves. I think we ought to consider the material first. @Gardnerphotos a few posts back said his let the wires a bit closer together and were too fragile for the task. I assume it is because the columns between grooves were too thin and could not support the tension.
> 
> Maybe aluminium will do better?


Yeah, that's another thing about widening the grooves, you also narrow the column between each groove making it more fragile. From the pictures James posted, I don't think they're too wide the further you get away from the comb. So if the comb is every 6 inches, between the two combs wouldn't be as wide.

I think aluminum would be good too. But so thin of aluminum, I would worry about the sleeve or wire being sliced.


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Yeah, that's another thing about widening the grooves, you also narrow the column between each groove making it more fragile. From the pictures James posted, I don't think they're too wide the further you get away from the comb. So if the comb is every 6 inches, between the two combs wouldn't be as wide.
> 
> I think aluminum would be good too. But so thin of aluminum, I would worry about the sleeve or wire being sliced.


If you make an aluminium version just slightly grind the edges to a 45 degree angle, or de-burr the edges, and you wont have to worry about slicing your cables


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> If you make an aluminium version just slightly grind the edges to a 45 degree angle, or de-burr the edges, and you wont have to worry about slicing your cables


True, just saying it's something to consider if someone actually does try to make their own out of aluminum. Don't want to see someone try it and end up frying their system because a burr or sharp edge cut with wire and shorted something out.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

I want to get some aluminum ones lasered, I found that with my acrylic ones they snapped lengthways, the individual teeth were fine.


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> True, just saying it's something to consider if someone actually does try to make their own out of aluminum. Don't want to see someone try it and end up frying their system because a burr or sharp edge cut with wire and shorted something out.


good point, it'd be shame were that to happen
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> I want to get some aluminum ones lasered, I found that with my acrylic ones they snapped lengthways, the individual teeth were fine.


aluminium would be nice, i bought a few of the acrylic and found that the 8 and 6 pin were fairly sturdy, and i would presume the same for the 4 pin however, i haven't used any. But needless to say the 24 pin due to its length snapped in half on my first attempt at using it. I was careful after that...

but over all i say these were an awesome idea and it really does make the case look much neater and pleasing to the eye.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> True, just saying it's something to consider if someone actually does try to make their own out of aluminum. Don't want to see someone try it and end up frying their system because a burr or sharp edge cut with wire and shorted something out.


I have some cases from cdroms and floppies I tore apart for supersmall screws. I also have a few hdd platters flying around&#8230; Looks like an invitation for me and a drill to have a fun time together. I'll make a few versions within a week. Maybe even on the weekend, but don't count on it: I still have a few cables to solder and sleeve.


----------



## JAM3S121

my cables for my build the 24pin is a bit hard to tame


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah that's a good point about making em too fragile. And yeah that's probly exactly why they're the thickness they are. Great point

As far as aluminum, THE reason i like the E22/Lutro & the @Gardnerphotos combs so much is because they're transparent acrylic. Compared to sewing your cables, i think the acrylic combs look 10000x better. It really doesn't get in the way of the great sleeving you're trying to show off.

@lowfat has posted a way to make cable bundlers out of scrap aluminum a bunch of times. There's pics of em all over this thread and his build logs. They dont have combs, but seem to work great!!

@JAM3S121 : Looking Great!!! If you're having issues training your cables, look into some of those Lutro/E22 Cable Combs we've all been talking about for the past cpl pages


----------



## JAM3S121

yeah im gonna buy those combs, i was just happy to fit them behind my motherboard tray


----------



## Gardnerphotos

FOr the aluminium ones I wasnt thinking of doing what lowfat has done, I was going to do exactly the same as the acrylic ones but made from aluminium, this would let me bunch the cables closer together as aluminium doesnt snap so easily, it would be even less visible than the acrylic due to being smaller and holding the cables tighter together.


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> FOr the aluminium ones I wasnt thinking of doing what lowfat has done, I was going to do exactly the same as the acrylic ones but made from aluminium, this would let me bunch the cables closer together as aluminium doesnt snap so easily, it would be even less visible than the acrylic due to being smaller and holding the cables tighter together.


when you get them made I want to know right away, i wanna be one of the first to get them


----------



## Big Elf

If you make up aluminium ones in the same style as the acrylic version then I'm not so sure that the wires are going to snap in. I think it's the slight 'give' in the acrylic that makes them work. I would think it's more likely to damage the sleeve.

A better design (which I think I've already seen) would be to drill separate holes and feed the wires through individually.

I like the idea of the combs but I think that they separate the wires too much on the 24 pin cable.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> If you make up aluminium ones in the same style as the acrylic version then I'm not so sure that the wires are going to snap in. I think it's the slight 'give' in the acrylic that makes them work. I would think it's more likely to damage the sleeve.
> 
> A better design (which I think I've already seen) would be to drill separate holes and feed the wires through individually.
> 
> I like the idea of the combs but I think that they separate the wires too much on the 24 pin cable.


Sleeved wires have a bit of give, too, and might work with aluminium combs, so long as the latter are not so harsh as to damage the sleeving. Well, we'll see. Here are my ideas:



 Obviously already available at Lutro0's, but might still be worthwhile in aluminium.


----------



## morencyam

I think the forth one would be best. With 1 I feel like the wires would still be able to move around too much. 2 would probably work too


----------



## Gardnerphotos

I have acrylic ones like 2 which work awesomely, but I agree if we can get 4 to work that would be sweet. Now to find somewhere that lasers aluminum as ours can only do acrylic and wood


----------



## lowfat

The first one is the way to go. If the sleeved wires fit very tightly it would support the wires more than the others.


----------



## gdubc

Even if the wires didn't snap into the bracket, I think it is still a great idea, in that having the small brackets, then feeding the wires through as if it was a big custom motherboard tray (Lutro0 has done this) would be pretty handy in you could place them where you need them.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> If you make up aluminium ones in the same style as the acrylic version then I'm not so sure that the wires are going to snap in. I think it's the slight 'give' in the acrylic that makes them work. I would think it's more likely to damage the sleeve.


I think the ideal material would be nylon 6,6. It's bendy but firm, won't damage other plastic and remembers its shape. Probably why they make the connectors out of nylon


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> I have acrylic ones like 2 which work awesomely, but I agree if we can get 4 to work that would be sweet. Now to find somewhere that lasers aluminum as ours can only do acrylic and wood


I was going to drill and mill. Pity I don't have access to sandblasting, but dremel might do a credible job for starters.
I guess welding and casting can work, too, actually, and casting aluminium is not too difficult.


----------



## Kazuhara

Hi, I'd like to know what are the risk of sleeving the PSU cables? I'm a first time builder and I just want to make sure before doing so that It won't break my PSU just in case if it'll void the warranty because of modifying the cables. Thanks~!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kazuhara*
> 
> Hi, I'd like to know what are the risk of sleeving the PSU cables? I'm a first time builder and I just want to make sure before doing so that It won't break my PSU just in case if it'll void the warranty because of modifying the cables. Thanks~!


AFAIK, sleeving individual wires does not void the warranty. Its only voided if you open up the PSU itself. Sleeving in itself is not all that difficult, just very time consuming. The hardest part for most sleeving jobs is removing the pin from the plugs. If you remove all the pins at the same time be sure you mark the wires somehow or using a wiring diagram so you know where they go back in the plug, otherwise you risk damaging components if you put the pins back in the wrong spot. If you remove each pin and sleeve it one by one, that removes that risk.


----------



## Kazuhara

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> AFAIK, sleeving individual wires does not void the warranty. Its only voided if you open up the PSU itself. Sleeving in itself is not all that difficult, just very time consuming. The hardest part for most sleeving jobs is removing the pin from the plugs. If you remove all the pins at the same time be sure you mark the wires somehow or using a wiring diagram so you know where they go back in the plug, otherwise you risk damaging components if you put the pins back in the wrong spot. If you remove each pin and sleeve it one by one, that removes that risk.


I see. Thanks for the well explained details.


----------



## morencyam

If it seems like too big of a task, there is always the option of buying pre-sleeved extensions


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kazuhara*
> 
> Hi, I'd like to know what are the risk of sleeving the PSU cables? I'm a first time builder and I just want to make sure before doing so that It won't break my PSU just in case if it'll void the warranty because of modifying the cables. Thanks~!


FYI, if for any reason you decide that you don't want to task yourself with it, here's a link to a guy that will make an entire modular kit for your psu, thus you are able to retain your factory modular cables. I've used him on my last two builds, he'll do whatever you want and the turn around is typically less than a week. I plain and simply have zero patience for sleeving except small stuff like pumps etc... It's not that I don't know how, I just hate doing it









https://www.facebook.com/pages/Ensourced-Custom-Sleeved-Cables/351225731619723

Also I just checked his website, he can do it for your X-650 PSU, it's on the list.


----------



## Kazuhara

Many thanks! =D


----------



## JAM3S121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> FYI, if for any reason you decide that you don't want to task yourself with it, here's a link to a guy that will make an entire modular kit for your psu, thus you are able to retain your factory modular cables. I've used him on my last two builds, he'll do whatever you want and the turn around is typically less than a week. I plain and simply have zero patience for sleeving except small stuff like pumps etc... It's not that I don't know how, I just hate doing it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/pages/Ensourced-Custom-Sleeved-Cables/351225731619723
> 
> Also I just checked his website, he can do it for your X-650 PSU, it's on the list.


He did mine too, he does the x 750 Too!


----------



## Kazuhara

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> He did mine too, he does the x 750 Too!


I've already email them for inquiries.

Really nice looking sleeved cables. Did you have your oem cables sleeved or bought another fully modular sleeved cable kit? How much did it cost by the way?


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

EVGA 1300 G2, crazy pinouts and doubled up cables almost finished yesterday.

Doubled-up VGA power:


After some practicing with solder iron:

Not a blot lead, proud.

Rebuilt the doubled up wires and caps on the 24-pin. Before and after:


What I did to caps:


The bundle of completed cables so far:


Field of battle:


Cables yet pending: one doubled-up VGA cable, one CPU 8-pin, a couple molex nothing serious cables, and one sata cable.

Cables completed not shown: two three-way sata cables powering a raid5, a mirror, and a hot-swap cage.


----------



## Kazuhara

Somehow, I might be able to get a spare power supply cables of Seasonic X-650 for sleeving. However, I just realized that they are flat cables. Will it be alright to sleeve them? Please see image below.


----------



## HeyBear

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kazuhara*
> 
> Somehow, I might be able to get a spare power supply cables of Seasonic X-650 for sleeving. However, I just realized that they are flat cables. Will it be alright to sleeve them? Please see image below.






Yea, they're no different from any other cable, you just have to pull the wire apart from the bunch if you plan to sleeve individual wires. There's not much resistance when you do.


----------



## Kazuhara

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> 
> Yea, they're no different from any other cable, you just have to pull the wire apart from the bunch if you plan to sleeve individual wires. There's not much resistance when you do.


Thanks! Hopefully the spare cables will arrive soon.


----------



## lowfat

Very nice.


----------



## morencyam

Wow, those look amazing! Mind explaining how you did that?


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Wow nice job!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Wow, those look amazing! Mind explaining how you did that?


Here's one way

http://www.overclock.net/t/1340389/guide-how-to-solder-your-own-usb2-0-3-0-cables

Moddiy & FCPU sell the USB 3.0 5Gbps wire & all the connectors. And they also these kind



It looks like he just snipped the tips off, sleeved, & resoldered like Lutro's PSU sleeving tutorial.

Also, great job =)

Those look killer


----------



## morencyam

That would be my guess too. Undecided if I'll do that or not. Bunch of real small wires that I might just not want to hassle with. I'm perfectly comfortable doing so though. We'll see


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, i'm pretty positive i'm gonna end up sleeving the PSU cable at the end of my build. Dunno about external USB cables though.

I do love those internal ones with single wire pinouts. I wonder if there's performance loss with em due to the lack of the shielded insulation


----------



## morencyam

Yeah, I did my PSU cable using Lutro0's cut and splice tutorial and I'm real happy with how it came out. I didn't account for the sleeve having to stretch so much over the cable, so I lost about a foot of sleeve length, so I just added another piece and put that end to the wall plug end since that is pretty well hidden with my desk set up. You can see where I added the extra piece on the left. You can kind of see the bulge where I soldered it back together because I used a bit too much electrical tape to add some strength, but again, it's at the wall end so it doesn't bother me any


----------



## kpoeticg

Sweet!!

I'm probly gonna buy one of the IEC Connectors Lutro sells when i do mine. Also thinking about doing it with some of Dazmode's 12mm Darkside Sleeve


----------



## MkO611

This heat shrink will be good to get right?

It's 5/16" and has 3:1 ratio

Heat shrink


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MkO611*
> 
> This heat shrink will be good to get right?
> 
> It's 5/16" and has 3:1 ratio
> 
> Heat shrink


I would stay away from that due to it being adhesive lined. Anytime I have used tubing with adhesive it always looks sloppy and messy.


----------



## bim27142

Just subscribed to this thread as I just started sleeving my PSU as well... so please help me out here guys...









So I guess my first question is... how do I deal with this kind? Double termination I think is the term for this? I can't seem to insert it back...



The PSU is Seasonic X-560 by the way...


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bim27142*
> 
> Just subscribed to this thread as I just started sleeving my PSU as well... so please help me out here guys...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I guess my first question is... how do I deal with this kind? Double termination I think is the term for this? I can't seem to insert it back...
> 
> The PSU is Seasonic X-560 by the way...


Normally by 



 the dual wires.


----------



## bim27142

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Normally by
> 
> 
> 
> the dual wires.


Will it be damaging if I re-arrange the pin outs for the PCIe connector? I mean, I wanted to re-arrange it in such a way that it will be like 1 is to 1 pin out... not sure if I am making sense but I think it doesn't matter right for as long as 12v line is connected to 12v and Ground line is connected to Ground? Or will it fry my components if I re-arrange it?

Like for example, that double terminated wire, can I instead split it and plug the other end to another Ground line? instead of splicing it and connected on to 1 Ground line, can I just instead plud it into another Ground line?

Not sure if you get me but I think you understand what I am trying to say...


----------



## Big Elf

Yes, as long as you match Ground to Ground and 12V to 12V you'll be fine and yes, you can use the ground from another connector instead of splicing it. However it looks neater spliced rather than having extra wire(s) in another connector.

I recommend using either a multi-meter and/or a *PSU tester* to check your connections if you're not sure.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bim27142*
> 
> I think it doesn't matter right for as long as 12v line is connected to 12v and Ground line is connected to Ground?


Correct.

edit: ninja'd by Big Elf!


----------



## sueke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sueke*
> 
> i think, maybe i'm wrong, that my psu could handle a system with a 660ti in sli mode, because the tdp is 150w, two will demand 300w, plus 110w needed for the i5 3570k 4.4Ghz, 2x 4GB DDR3, one SSD, one 500GB HD, a cpu cooler and a half dozen of fans
> 
> I'm very happy for the help, i will post my work as soon as finish it.
> 
> Thank's a lot Big Elf


Hi friends,

Like i promise back later, i'm here to post my job.

After so much work, i finally reach the heavens.

I have modded the psu, i cut off molexes cables and one sata cable, after that i insert two 8 pin pci-e and one 6 pin pci-e, to power two gtx 760.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sueke*
> 
> my psu isn't modular and has:
> 2 cables with 3 4pin molex connectors each
> 2 cables with 3 power sata connectors each
> 1 cable with one 6pin pci-e
> 
> my vga needs two 6pin pci-e
> 
> i'm not using the 2 cables with the molexes, except to connect the adapter two 4pin molex to one 6pin pci-e for the vga, an 1 cable with satas, so i want to remove the molexes and sata conectors from these 3 cables and made with the 12v and ground rails of these cables one 6pin pci-e, or one 6+2pin pci-e, or yet two 6pin pci-e connectors before i sleeving them.
> 
> is it possible???
> 
> sorry about my english, i'm brazilian
> 
> 
> 
> adapter:


Take a look:

Before



After



Before



After



Thank's to the lutro0's guides, the help of some forum folks, the patiance of my wife and strong will, wait for it, "WORK COMPLETE!", like orc minions said in warcraft 2.


----------



## morencyam

It's amazing how much better a build looks with just a little bit of sleeving. Nice work!


----------



## kpoeticg

Agreed. That build looks soooo much better now. Nice job!


----------



## bim27142

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Yes, as long as you match Ground to Ground and 12V to 12V you'll be fine and yes, you can use the ground from another connector instead of splicing it. However it looks neater spliced rather than having extra wire(s) in another connector.
> 
> I recommend using either a multi-meter and/or a *PSU tester* to check your connections if you're not sure.


Great, thanks for confirming! I will try to post pics/visuals later for my plans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Correct.
> 
> edit: ninja'd by Big Elf!


Thanks for confirming! Appreciate it much...

Though, for the 24p connector, I believe that's going to be a different story right? I mean, I should not re-arrange the pin outs.


----------



## lowfat

No you can definitely rearrange the cables as long as the same colour cable is in the same position as before. Any red cable can be swapped for another red, black for another black, yellow for another yellow, etc.


----------



## bim27142

^^ Got it... thanks!

I am definitely more confident now with my DIY sleeving project...


----------



## bim27142

So... here's my plan... please let me know if this will work...









I plan to cut the wire here and scrap the cut piece altogether...

https://imageshack.com/i/1ajun2j

And then, use the blank slot (vacated by the other double-terminated wire for 8-pin configuration) instead. I intend to use the other double-terminated wire (cut in to single as well) and then insert it in the vacant slot.

https://imageshack.com/i/0yy4hej


----------



## REAPER XD

Guys! Is the pattern I designed good or are there some changes I can make to it?


----------



## morencyam

Looks fine to me REAPER


----------



## REAPER XD

Thanks


----------



## amatthie

I'm looking for some feedback on mdpc sleeving colors. I know that I want b-magic and black but I can't decide if a hint of titanium or gray mkII would mix well.

I am planning on the b-magic to match with mayhems dye and my computer chassis is black. I thought maybe the gray/titanium would tie in with the nickel plated blocks I will be using for water cooling.

I haven't actually mapped out a 24 pin layout but I was thinking: I black II black II gray II b-magic II b-magic II black or gray II black or gray II b-magic II b-magic II gray II black II black I

I am afraid that the cable colors will be too busy or they don't work together. Any advice would be great.


----------



## bim27142

Is it really more difficult to pull out wires in the 24p connector compared to PCIe? Currently doing the 24p now and I am having much difficulty pulling out wires...


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

It’s just there are more wires, that’s all. How difficult it is depends on individual pin and nest. They do get rather stuck sometimes and I was only able to remove some with a tiny bit of plastic behind the wings.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bim27142*
> 
> Is it really more difficult to pull out wires in the 24p connector compared to PCIe? Currently doing the 24p now and I am having much difficulty pulling out wires...


It's not a SeaSonic PSU is it, they can be more difficult to de-pin?

Assuming you have a decent pin removing tool then make sure that you push the wire back up into the housing then press down the tool to make sure the tangs are depressed. Also pull the wire straight when removing it and you may need to 'wiggle' the wire first. You may need more force than you think to remove the pin but there's also a risk of the wire coming out of the pin.

This highly detailed image produced by *WiSK*







shows how the wings of the pin (black) dig into the plastic of the connector (brown)



If WiSK was on royalties for the number of times his picture has been used in this forum he'd be a rich man


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> If WiSK was on royalties for the number of times his picture has been used in this forum he'd be a rich man


I've already sold the rights to Warner/Chappell for $25 million.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Sleeving progress on "Project Magis":



http://imgur.com/pi9rOpt




http://imgur.com/S9UofpM




http://imgur.com/I76LnW7




http://imgur.com/6HAaaVx




http://imgur.com/ofnOH7S




http://imgur.com/fWtKOZf


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Sleeving progress on "Project Magis":
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/pi9rOpt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/S9UofpM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/I76LnW7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/6HAaaVx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/ofnOH7S
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/fWtKOZf


God damn!


----------



## luciddreamer124

Thanks! But please use spoilers when quoting


----------



## lowfat

I think it would look better if you used less of those cable holder things IMHO. I like the motherboard standoffs, I don't see many other people who spend the time painting/heatshrinking their standoffs.









Finished off my GPU cables last night.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-123.jpg.html


----------



## luciddreamer124

It's a work in progress. I actually used the combs to hold them in position to find the right lengths. I might make my first attempt at sewing them in a bit.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> It's a work in progress. I actually used the combs to hold them in position to find the right lengths. I might make my first attempt at sewing them in a bit.


Ok I do similar things. My vote would be against sewing them. I personally am not a fan of sewed cables.


----------



## bim27142

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> It's not a SeaSonic PSU is it, they can be more difficult to de-pin?


It is Seasonic...









I am only using staple wire... so I had to really push it down and pull the wires with a little more force... so far though, I haven't damaged any piece yet...


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bim27142*
> 
> It is Seasonic...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am only using staple wire... so I had to really push it down and pull the wires with a little more force... so far though, I haven't damaged any piece yet...


Don't pull on the wire. Push on the wire from the front w/ a small hex key. That way you don't risk ripping out the cable.


----------



## longroadtrip

What I was playing with last night...


----------



## lowfat

Is that SATA sleeve? I found that the SATA stuff was slightly too large for the Pro-Slims. I'll be using some of the USB sized stuff Nils use to sell on mine.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Is that SATA sleeve? I found that the SATA stuff was slightly too large for the Pro-Slims. I'll be using some of the USB sized stuff Nils use to sell on mine.


He still sells it, but only in black.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Is that SATA sleeve? I found that the SATA stuff was slightly too large for the Pro-Slims. I'll be using some of the USB sized stuff Nils use to sell on mine.


Yep..this is SATA sleeve. MDPC-X Red (the lighting was bad in the shop when I took this last night.) I found that if I really stretched it well, it worked great for me.








I wouldn't mind trying the USB sleeve though...


----------



## morencyam

I used the MDPC-x orange sata sleeve for my sata cables and really liked it. I also used it when I sleeved my PSU power cable and it worked really well on that too. I just wish all that sleeve wasn't so expensive.


----------



## bim27142

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Don't pull on the wire. Push on the wire from the front w/ a small hex key. That way you don't risk ripping out the cable.


Got it, thanks for the tip! I think I have a couple of hex keys at home...


----------



## longroadtrip

TUTORIAL: How to create custom sleeved SATA cables using Akasa Proslim Cables

Proslim cables are available in 50, 30, and 15cm lengths. I like to use the 50cm cables for the simple reason that I now have a stockpile of SATA wire that I can use to make new cables whenever I need to.



Stock vs. sleeved (and shortened)



One one end of the cable, gently push the metal retaining clip to the side so it slides out from under the plastic tab holding it. Next do the other side and then gently bend the retaining clip out about a quart of an inch.



The connector is simply a compression style fitting and can easily be pried apart. I do it by slipping and x-acto knife under the side opposite the retaining clip and gently pushing it up. After that, I'll slip the knife from the cable side into the actual side of the connector to loosen it up on each side. After that, the connector will come apart easily.



As you can see, the connector just has little blades that push into the ribbon wire to make the connection with the wire



Once the connector has been pried apart, this is what you will have. Go ahead and gently pull the wire out.



Trim cable to desired length. Place the smaller piece from the connector in place and make a pencil mark where the wire meets the connector. This will be your sleeve cutting mark. Once you have marked the cable, remove the small piece of the connector.



In this particular example, I am using MDPC-X Red SATA sleeving



Cut the sleeve to the desired length, I like to run it all the way to the connector.



Place the heat shrink over the sleeving



On both ends of the cable (At this time you can also reassemble the connector on the other end. I use a pair of needle nose pliers to compress the connector back into place)



Place a small dab of superglue on each side of the wire on one end. Slide the sleeving over it and holding the shrink, tighten your grip on the sleeve until the superglue holds the sleeve in place. At this point you can also shrink the heatshrink.



Repeat on the other end



This method also works really well with the Lutro0 Customs Teleios SATA sleeving as well



A stock cable, a shorter one, and the two I made for this tutorial.



Fin


----------



## luciddreamer124

I have found those to be really finicky once you modify them. It's hard to get the contacts secure and positioning has to be right so that they work.


----------



## longroadtrip

All of mine have always worked...Just have to be careful how you crimp the two sides of the connector back into place.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> I have found those to be really finicky once you modify them. It's hard to get the contacts secure and positioning has to be right so that they work.


Try heating up the cable a bit with a heatgun before removing and reinstalling the connector. I found this helps. All of the ones I modified still work.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Try heating up the cable a bit with a heatgun before removing and reinstalling the connector. I found this helps. All of the ones I modified still work.


That's an excellent idea. I can see that helping a lot.


----------



## Iniura

Can someone measure the width of MDPC small heatshrink?

I'm contemplating on making my own jig


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> Can someone measure the width of MDPC small heatshrink?
> 
> I'm contemplating on making my own jig


When flattened it's about 1cm.


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> When flattened it's about 1cm.


tyvm


----------



## lowfat

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-27-3.jpg.html


----------



## goodtobeking

Bravo, low-fat that looks amazing. I hope my sleeving looks half that good

Edit: what is that above your ssd??


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Bravo, low-fat that looks amazing. I hope my sleeving looks half that good
> 
> Edit: what is that above your ssd??


Thanks.

That would be an mCubed T-Balancer BigNG. It is an old school automated fan controller.


----------



## goodtobeking

Ahhh. I looked.into one of those before I found the aquaero 5. Can't get over how good it looks


----------



## morencyam

Wow that looks incredible. I'm definitely going to have to make me some of those clamps. They seem much more effective than the cable management clips like MDPC-X sells.


----------



## lowfat

More effective yes. But much less forgiving. Cable lengths need to be nearly perfect length when using flat retention bars like that through the entire build.


----------



## morencyam

I notice they are a two piece clamp with a screw passing through. Do those screws go through the mobo tray as well? Or are they connected some other way then have a screw going through just the two plates?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I notice they are a two piece clamp with a screw passing through. Do those screws go through the mobo tray as well? Or are they connected some other way then have a screw going through just the two plates?


The screws go through the motherboard tray. The first time I used the retention bars I used just a single bar per set of cables. It was significantly easier to keep the cables straight when using two. I'd suggest using 2mm thick aluminum like I did as you need to put a lot of tension on the bars. 1.5mm aluminum tends to warp from my experience. If you go through the last 5 or so pages of my 'Big Lian Li' log you'll find a ton of pics showing everything about the cable management.


----------



## morencyam

Cool. Thanks. I'll take a look through the log. I have a bunch of scrap 1/8" ABS plastic at work I was thinking of using, bit since you said the 1.5mm aluminum warppped, I'll go with something a little more sturdy


----------



## Jameswalt1

I figured I'd follow up on a previous conversation several pages back discussing the e22 cable combs. The concern in the conversation was how much they spread the cables apart and that they might be to obscene looking. Well I found that using them on the backside proved extremely effective at controlling the cables, especially the 24 pin. The pic below utilizes one 24pin cable comb on the backside:


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanks for pointing that out. That actually makes alot of sense, and your pics prove the point


----------



## bim27142

DIY sleeving project finally done... fingers still sore...







and you may notice, the SATA cable is unfinished... as I ran out of sleeves already...









https://imageshack.com/i/jtmn3wj


----------



## ozzy1925

i would like to know: which brand`s white sleeve is similar to corsair white Type 3 (Generation 2)?


----------



## Elder

Still experimenting...















Next prototype...


----------



## iBored

From the man who loves his suits:



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> Still experimenting...








Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





Next prototype...


----------



## stickg1

Sigh, I'm getting a little frustrated on my first sleeving job. It's a Seasonic X-650. I did an 8pin EPS already. Right now I'm just using some plain black 550 paracord and sleeving the stock wires that came with the PSU. Once I get the hang of it I was hoping to make my own set of wires with black, yellow, and gray sleeving to match my rig. (here in the spoiler)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







All I have done so far is my 8pin EPS. It took a little over an hour. I just know that I started Pulp Fiction when I began, knocked out the EPS, and did the molex and fan on my MCP-355 by the time the movie was over.

These pictures aren't great, best I could do with my smartphone and daytime lighting.


Spoiler: 8pin EPS








I will keep practicing, but I was wondering what it would cost for one of you pros to make me a set of cables (one 8pin EPS, one 6pin PCIe and 8pin PCIe combo cable, and a 24pin mobo) in black, yellow, and gray. It can be paracord or PET, whatever you're more comfortable with, I will pay for all the materials plus a generous tip. If anyone is interested in doing this for me, PM me with an offer. To do it myself I would have to buy more tools and a bunch of extra material for my inevitable whoopsies. If it would cost less for a professional to do it for me I wouldn't mind just taking that route. I will continue doing my stock cables in all black, because I'm sure black, yellow, and gray would be tougher to sell than just all black in the event I part with this PSU.

Also I might want to get one MOLEX set done, and one SATA set done. I can send my extra stock cables if that would help you.

Anyway, I appreciate reading this and any potential offers received!


----------



## Big Elf

A *professional* job won't be cheap. That pricing is for extensions, a full cable set will cost more.

It looks as though you were doing OK with your sleeving. It does take time to do a professional looking job.


----------



## morencyam

Agreed. The more practice you get, the quicker and easier it becomes. But just looking at your 8-pin it seems like you're starting to get the hang of it


----------



## stickg1

Well yeah, but then I started dismantling my PCIe connector (on the Seasonic it's one 12pin on the PSU side, and 2x 6+2pins on the GPU side) and saw all the double wires and I was like ***!

I'll keep working on it. It's a good skill to have and it should keep me occupied long enough to not spend money on things I don't really need!

I do need some more sleeving though. I got this black paracord at Home Depot believe it or not. I'm doing one of my molex cables now. But what should I do about these double wires that pass through? I guess just get close to the terminal and heatshink it? It's going to all be hidden in the back of the case, I really just want to have heatshinkless on the PSU end, and on the mobo and PCIe's where they are in plain view..



Halfway point on the PSU side!


The ATX pins on this Seasonic are soooo tight. I can't get my extractor tool or two staples in. I basically have to stick something in there to "crush" the pin or compact it. Then I can slide in the extractor. I just have to use another tool (I'm using a trim nail) to reshape the pin.


----------



## weeklykill

Hello guys im a newbie to sleeving and stuff but im going to sleeve my build in my next case the H440 from Nzxt do you guys have eny ideas for color schemes?
i was thinking of a blue/white theme but most of my mobo/graphics card is black but i do have blue ramsticks and a blue lit h100i


----------



## stickg1

Just ordered some gray, yellow, and black telios from Lutro0. After seeing prices on having the sleeving done, I decided I rather do it myself and have it look mediocre than pay $200 for some dang sleeve put on some wires.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> Still experimenting...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next prototype...


Nice the cables look nice and close together with this method


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> Still experimenting...


what are these things and can I buy them to help keep my cables straight?


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> what are these things and can I buy them to help keep my cables straight?


theyre cable combs, E22 and Lutro0 sell similar ones but sever others of us have been experimenting with our own versions


----------



## Neo Zuko

How did you make them? 3D printer?


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> How did you make them? 3D printer?


no 3D printed things are pretty weak and brittle, I laser cut mine, but I guess you could also mill them


----------



## the_cyberspace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> Still experimenting...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next prototype...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome job you did here! I really like this..









I'm curious about the other prototype...


----------



## iamkraine

Need advice on sleeving color.
Red, White, Black









Gray, White, Black







I cant make up my mind.
In the bitfenix prodigy its really hard to get the orientation of the cables just right because they are basically squashed in and kinda set themselves.


----------



## Big Elf

Black, Grey, White but with a lighter grey. Make each wire in the cable set a custom length.


----------



## stickg1

I also vote for black white and gray !


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-27-3.jpg.html


Stunning lowfat...as usual. I'm tearing into my SM5 soon to upgrade some components, and I'm positive this time I'm going to be custom sleeving my PSU....finally.


----------



## weeklykill

Hello guys im a newbie to sleeving and stuff but im going to sleeve my build in my next case the H440 from Nzxt do you guys have eny ideas for color schemes?
i was thinking of a blue/white theme but most of my mobo/graphics card is black but i do have blue ramsticks and a blue lit h100i


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weeklykill*
> 
> Hello guys im a newbie to sleeving and stuff but im going to sleeve my build in my next case the H440 from Nzxt do you guys have eny ideas for color schemes?
> i was thinking of a blue/white theme but most of my mobo/graphics card is black but i do have blue ramsticks and a blue lit h100i


i have a blue/black scheme myself, but looking back i wish i did blue/white/black, it provides more contrast


----------



## weeklykill

thank you ill consider it


----------



## stickg1

I'm going to do this entire X-650. I ordered some nice sleeving (I think it's nice at least. It's lutro0's telios sleeving)

But first I have to splice all these double wires. My soldering skills are pretty weak, but here's the first two doubles from PCIe cables.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I'm going to do this entire X-650. I ordered some nice sleeving (I think it's nice at least. It's lutro0's telios sleeving)
> 
> But first I have to splice all these double wires. My soldering skills are pretty weak, but here's the first two doubles from PCIe cables.


I'm about to do that same thing. Gotta get my shopping list together. Not looking forward to the double wires.







Are you creating new wires or sleeving your existing wires? Will you be using new terminals?


----------



## stickg1

I'm doing the existing wires. If I mess up I can always make my own. I might end up doing that eventually anyway. But sleeving the existing I feel will be easier for my first time because not all the wires are one to one. So I just do one at a time so I don't mix them up!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Stunning lowfat...as usual. I'm tearing into my SM5 soon to upgrade some components, and I'm positive this time I'm going to be custom sleeving my PSU....finally.












High quality sleeved psu cables look 10x better than the oem ones available.


----------



## Zooty Cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weeklykill*
> 
> Hello guys im a newbie to sleeving and stuff but im going to sleeve my build in my next case the H440 from Nzxt do you guys have eny ideas for color schemes?
> i was thinking of a blue/white theme but most of my mobo/graphics card is black but i do have blue ramsticks and a blue lit h100i


Figure out what motherboard you are going to use and match the color that way.


----------



## Himo5

Been struggling with the problem that Scythe Glide Streams bring to the task of sleeving up to the hub instead of from the rim when it suddenly hit me that what I really need to be doing is seperating the fan from the sleeving by replacing the fan cable with a connector right there on the rim.

Here's a bodge-up of what I mean.


This would make the fan cable lengths and sleeving independent of the fan selection. It would also allow us to concentrate on the real problem of sleeving fans, which is the lack of a braid size to match 7/0.2mm fan wire.


----------



## Neo Zuko

With my custom wiring I actually have three options:

1. Re-sleeve existing cables on my AX760i (soon to be upgraded to an AX1500i).

2. Re-sleeve Corsair's single braided cable upgrade kit later (after I enjoyed them a bit, not jumping into custom until everything else is done like the watercooling, which may take some time).

3. Make my own wires.

Honestly I don't know the all the pros and cons to each option.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Been struggling with the problem that Scythe Glide Streams bring to the task of sleeving up to the hub instead of from the rim when it suddenly hit me that what I really need to be doing is seperating the fan from the sleeving by replacing the fan cable with a connector right there on the rim.


Noiseblocker fans have something like that.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Noiseblocker fans have something like that.


My plan all along. As what happens when you move fan positions or change cases? You need to just fashion a different length connector cable that's all. Flexibility wise it makes no sense to make the fan and its cable all one piece.


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Noiseblocker fans have something like that.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's interesting that they should put a female socket on there instead of a male plug when they can use the fan to obviate the need for a shielded connector (I only used a shielded connector in my example cos my soldering is way out of practise). It means all your fan wires will have to be extensions with bulky - and not so easy to find - shielded male connectors on them. I suppose they were just putting a foot in the water by modding their own standard fans. It really needs a fan designed for the purpose, because doing this yourself is not straight forward.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> It's interesting that they should put a female socket on there instead of a male plug when they can use the fan to obviate the need for a shielded connector (I only used a shielded connector in my example cos my soldering is way out of practise). It means all your fan wires will have to be extensions with bulky - and not so easy to find - shielded male connectors on them. I suppose they were just putting a foot in the water by modding their own standard fans. It really needs a fan designed for the purpose, because doing this yourself is not straight forward.


Noiseblocker supplies two extensions with each fan. One is 20cm and one is 30cm, and can be joined to make 50cm. They are both sleeved to a decent quality, with the male end being the unshielded type, so not bulky at all.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Noiseblocker supplies two extensions with each fan. One is 20cm and one is 30cm, and can be joined to make 50cm. They are both sleeved to a decent quality, with the male end being the unshielded type, so not bulky at all.


That is the coolest thing ever, why aren't all fans done like this?


----------



## Himo5

Yes, I see it's a feature on their whole, top BlackSilentPro line - and they use the soldered on male connectors in their extension cables - and there's enough play on their connectors to facilitate your cable routing - and they fully implement the functionality of making fans independent of their cabling.

However, from the sleeving point of view - designing visible hookup wire out of your rig and looping cables into sockets &etc. - which is surely what sleeving up to the hub is all a part of, NoiseBlockers are only halfway to a solution.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> NoiseBlockers are only halfway to a solution.


Of course, it's only intended to be the solution for people who aren't sleeving themselves: variable length pre-sleeved cables.

Nevertheless, I understand your suggestion. It would be ideal if all fans would have a socket with male fan pins. So that everyone can just plug in a cable on the fan end just as they do on the motherboard end. Then fan companies can supply a simple male/male wire, and modders can make their own custom-length sleeved ones with just a crimper and no need for soldering.


----------



## Himo5

That's the spirit! Then instead of just the boring old ATX/PCIE/EPS standards we can have yards of fan cabling snaking all over the place and looping into the motherboard and fan controllers from all directions. And Lutro0 can make another video to show the podgy fingered how to do heatshrinkless sleeving with all that multi-color, teeny weeny, 1.6mm braiding!


----------



## weeklykill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zooty Cat*
> 
> Figure out what motherboard you are going to use and match the color that way.


well its a mostly black mobo with only 2 gold inscriptions so i ws thinking of a dark grey/white/blue color scheme


----------



## Big Elf

It's always worth checking out *Lutro0s gallery* to rip off borrow ideas


----------



## weeklykill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> It's always worth checking out *Lutro0s gallery* to rip off borrow ideas


XD i saw a scheme tht i could use there


----------



## morencyam

You could also use the ChooseMyPC sleeving prototyper. It lets you pick the color of each individual wire to get an idea of what different colors and configurations would look like


----------



## weeklykill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> You could also use the ChooseMyPC sleeving prototyper. It lets you pick the color of each individual wire to get an idea of what different colors and configurations would look like


thank you ill try to find an color scheme to my liking


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> You could also use the ChooseMyPC sleeving prototyper. It lets you pick the color of each individual wire to get an idea of what different colors and configurations would look like


Nice find, I'm sure a lot of people here will put it to good use.


----------



## weeklykill

im thinking of this scheme in my next 'build' in the NZXT H440 http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/?p=52f272dd3dcaa


----------



## zmegati

You mean something like this?


----------



## weeklykill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> You mean something like this?


yes but i think im gonna use dark grey instead of black what do you think looks better?


----------



## stickg1

What do you guys think of this for my black and yellow rig?..


----------



## Pimphare

@Lutro0

Stupid question about the "LC Ratchet Crimper + 100 Female ATX Crimps - ATX Ratchet Crimper" on your website. Do these crimpers come with 100 female ATX terminals?

I'm ready to put in an order. Just need to make sure I get everything I need for my sleeving project.


----------



## Noskcaj

I'm planning a new build in a bitfenix colossus Matx, not sure what colour to use.
The only non black part so fan is the white fans on the cooler.
I'm thinking green, but i'm not sure how to fully do that, since plasti dp is $30 a can here, and i can't find any vinyl dye, let alone in a green.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> @Lutro0
> 
> Stupid question about the "LC Ratchet Crimper + 100 Female ATX Crimps - ATX Ratchet Crimper" on your website. Do these crimpers come with 100 female ATX terminals?
> 
> I'm ready to put in an order. Just need to make sure I get everything I need for my sleeving project.


Is you're trying to tag him, you have to use the @ symbol in the reply menu.




Then it would look like this if done correctly. @Lutro0


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> @Lutro0
> 
> Stupid question about the "LC Ratchet Crimper + 100 Female ATX Crimps - ATX Ratchet Crimper" on your website. Do these crimpers come with 100 female ATX terminals?
> 
> I'm ready to put in an order. Just need to make sure I get everything I need for my sleeving project.


Yes it sure does. Thanks for asking!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Is you're trying to tag him, you have to use the @ symbol in the reply menu.
> Then it would look like this if done correctly. @Lutro0


I wasn't aware of this. Thank you!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Yes it sure does. Thanks for asking!


Thank you sir. Looking forward to it!


----------



## stickg1

Say what? I want one, a couple dozen feet of wire and some connectors. It's looking like it will be easier to make my own.


----------



## Pimphare

Oh no! Lutro0 is out of heatshrinkless 1/4 heatshrink. Is there an alternative to this using PET sleeving? Would 3/16 heatshrink do the job?


----------



## kpoeticg

This 3:1 1/4" should work the same i'd imagine

http://www.wirecare.com/products.asp?prodline=H3


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> This 3:1 1/4" should work the same i'd imagine
> http://www.wirecare.com/products.asp?prodline=H3


Sweet thanks!


----------



## kpoeticg

NP


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Sweet thanks!


let me know how it works for you.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> let me know how it works for you.


I went ahead and ordered 3/16" 3:1 heatshrink from Lutro0 since I wanted everything on one order. I'll be keep the alternative in mind though in case all else fails.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Does anyone have experience soldering wire onto these male 3 pin fan connectors? I'm having a lot of trouble making fan extensions and I don't want to use the shielded versions


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Does anyone have experience soldering wire onto these male 3 pin fan connectors? I'm having a lot of trouble making fan extensions and I don't want to use the shielded versions


Needs some practice, but this is the method I use.

First you need tiny heatshrink. Put that on the wires first, and slide it up. Then strip the wires and tin them using the iron with a bit of solder. Make sure the wire is full of solder. Dip that in flux, put another drop of solder on the iron. Now bring the fan pin and wire together with wire on top, and touch the iron to the fan connector pin underneath. The flux will help the solder reflow, and the drop of solder on the iron should flow to cover the pin. Remove the iron, and the solder should harden around pin and wire. Lastly, slide the tiny heatshrink down and heat to cover the bare pin and wire.

Here's a video. It doesn't show the exact thing you want to do, but shows the technique for pre-tinning and touching two pre-tinned parts together to make a solid connection.


----------



## Big Elf

If you're really struggling with the soldering bit then you can use *USB/Motherboard pins* instead. You still need tiny heatshrink to cover the pins after crimping and the end result is a bit bigger than just soldering them.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Needs some practice, but this is the method I use.
> 
> First you need tiny heatshrink. Put that on the wires first, and slide it up. Then strip the wires and tin them using the iron with a bit of solder. Make sure the wire is full of solder. Dip that in flux, put another drop of solder on the iron. Now bring the fan pin and wire together with wire on top, and touch the iron to the fan connector pin underneath. The flux will help the solder reflow, and the drop of solder on the iron should flow to cover the pin. Remove the iron, and the solder should harden around pin and wire. Lastly, slide the tiny heatshrink down and heat to cover the bare pin and wire.
> 
> Here's a video. It doesn't show the exact thing you want to do, but shows the technique for pre-tinning and touching two pre-tinned parts together to make a solid connection.


Thanks for the advice! I think I need to go back to the basics with soldering. I'm having trouble tinning my iron as it just balls up and falls off. Also, I'm not even using flux







. So ya, I'll do some more research haha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> If you're really struggling with the soldering bit then you can use *USB/Motherboard pins* instead. You still need tiny heatshrink to cover the pins after crimping and the end result is a bit bigger than just soldering them.


Very interesting! I hadn't even though of that, thanks.

+1 both of you!


----------



## stickg1

I sleeved my Intel stock cooler for my little mini-ITX rig I'm building. Not the greatest job but I'm still learning. My biggest heatshrink wasn't wide enough to cover the 4 wires and 4-pin PWM connector. Just for reference, in the future, what size heatshrink do I need to do that?



Look what came in the mail today!!! My Teleios from Lutro0! This stuff feels awesome. I like how it's already taut I think it will be much easier for me getting the correct lengths than it has been with this cheap paracord I got at Home Depot to practice with.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Oh no! Lutro0 is out of heatshrinkless 1/4 heatshrink. Is there an alternative to this using PET sleeving? Would 3/16 heatshrink do the job?


Back in stock! Sorry for the shortage.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Just felt like sharing my latest stuff since I haven't posted here in a while.


----------



## ledzepp3

Lovin' it.





I want to get another 24 pin and a few more 6 and 8 pin cable combs though.. I've not got enough for all my cables to look tidy or prevent the rear outer white cable from coming forward as you can see in picture two. MDPC-X over every cable on a Silverstone Strider ST-1000G, a Swiftech D5 vario, and a Lian-Li 3 way SATA power splitter (which was reduced to a 2-way splitter).

Thanks again to Lutro0 for the work on the cables!









-Zepp


----------



## failwheeldrive

Hey guys. So I'm probably going to be doing sleeved cables for a buddy's build soon, and he wants me to sleeve the stock modular cables on his ax860 instead of going the full custom route to keep costs down. The problem is he wants white as one of the colors in the theme, and obviously using the black wires will show through white MDPC. I can make the white wires from scratch and add them to the stock cables, but once again that will drive the costs up and I'm trying to keep it affordable for him. Do you guys have any techniques for dying for painting wires that would work well? Thanks


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Hey guys. So I'm probably going to be doing sleeved cables for a buddy's build soon, and he wants me to sleeve the stock modular cables on his ax860 instead of going the full custom route to keep costs down. The problem is he wants white as one of the colors in the theme, and obviously using the black wires will show through white MDPC. I can make the white wires from scratch and add them to the stock cables, but once again that will drive the costs up and I'm trying to keep it affordable for him. Do you guys have any techniques for dying for painting wires that would work well? Thanks


If you stretch the mdpc tight enough it won't show through too bad.


----------



## Noskcaj

The cable won't look too bad anyway, but some white vinyl dye would remove the need for sleeving


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> If you stretch the mdpc tight enough it won't show through too bad.


I have an extremely tight stretch on all my sleeve, but I still find that black shows through really badly on white MDPC. I could get away with it if I were using Telios, but not MDPC unfortunately.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noskcaj*
> 
> The cable won't look too bad anyway, but some white vinyl dye would remove the need for sleeving


I've heard of dying sleeving before, but not wire. I'll look into it. Thanks guys!


----------



## lowfat

If you are using white sleeving then you shouldn't use it over yellow, orange or red wires. But that is about it. This is assuming the weave is as tight as possible.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If you are using white sleeving then you shouldn't use it over yellow, orange or red wires. But that is about it. This is assuming the weave is as tight as possible.


The stock cables are black. When I stretch white sleeve over black wire as tight as it goes, it comes out kind of gray looking lol. I guess I'll just crimp some lengths of white wire and add them to the stock cables in the necessary places. I'm kind of a perfectionist, so it would bother me if the white didn't look bright enough.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> The stock cables are black. When I stretch white sleeve over black wire as tight as it goes, it comes out kind of gray looking lol. I guess I'll just crimp some lengths of white wire and add them to the stock cables in the necessary places. I'm kind of a perfectionist, so it would bother me if the white didn't look bright enough.


I just tried this. Stretched tight, white sleeve on black wire looks okay. But if I put it next to white sleeve on white wire, then I see what you mean. Don't think it's that serious, but maybe in daylight...

But, if you have a crimper, why using stock cables at all?


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> I've heard of dying sleeving before, but not wire. I'll look into it. Thanks guys!


Just test with a spare wire that what you get is a dye rather than a coating. One will flake off, on won't.
This method is normally used for cables that are difficult to sleeve, like sata power cables, but it works universally


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I just tried this. Stretched tight, white sleeve on black wire looks okay. But if I put it next to white sleeve on white wire, then I see what you mean. Don't think it's that serious, but maybe in daylight...
> 
> But, if you have a crimper, why using stock cables at all?


Because I'm doing it for a friend and he wants them done as cheaply as possible. I always make my own cables from scratch, but it always takes twice as long and ends up costing twice as much when using Lutro's excellent (but freaking expensive) 16awg wire lol. I guess I'll just make the white wires from scratch and incorporate them into the stock cables. I've got a bunch of white 16awg in my collection anyway. Thanks for the help guys. +rep all around


----------



## ikem

mmm a little different


----------



## weeklykill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> mmm a little different


what is that if i may ask?


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weeklykill*
> 
> what is that if i may ask?


Looks like it is some sorta helicopter (tricopter) maybe?


----------



## weeklykill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pidoma*
> 
> Looks like it is some sorta helicopter (tricopter) maybe?


ah yes with 2 arms folded i see


----------



## ikem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weeklykill*
> 
> ah yes with 2 arms folded i see


yea i haven't gotten a pic recently of it unfolded. here is an old one.


----------



## goodtobeking

Hey what you guys think of this wire?? I bought it about a year ago and thought it was 16ga. Only wires I am planning on custom making are the 6 GPU wires running into my rig and some MOLEX/SATA wires as well. Mainly concerned about the GPU wires, but they are going to be under 2 foot of length.


----------



## stickg1

I guess I have to get some of those cable combs. Although I think this is what happens when you sleeve existing PSU wires, they kinda do their own thing. But anyway, this was my first sleeving attempt for my main rig, and first time using the Teleios...


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Hey what you guys think of this wire?? I bought it about a year ago and thought it was 16ga. Only wires I am planning on custom making are the 6 GPU wires running into my rig and some MOLEX/SATA wires as well. Mainly concerned about the GPU wires, but they are going to be under 2 foot of length.


It's a bit fat: 0.095" / 2.4mm is thickers than I'd use. Electrically, PCIe wires carry under 4 amp load, 18 AWG is fine.


----------



## Neo Zuko

So how does everyone wire up fans exactly? Do you wire them a custom length or do you use a lead of some length then use custom extension cables. I am thinking leads with custom extension cables. If so, how close do you make the wire to the fan itself and how long is the average extension?


----------



## lowfat

I generally cut off the fan cable about 1.5cm after the edge of the fan. Then crimp on new crimps. Then i will use extensions. Generally they will be daisy chained extensions since my fans are generally for radiators.


----------



## Neo Zuko

ah that is one area I am unsure of, like can I combine wires for fans and how many or what is bad and what is good, length restrictions, etc.


----------



## lowfat

That would depend on the fans and how they are being powered. I daisy chain 4 gentle typhoons and run them off a single connector using 22g wire. Although I wouldn't suggest running 4 fans off a motherboard header. But with a good fan controller it wouldn't be a problem.


----------



## Neo Zuko

edit.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Back in stock! Sorry for the shortage.


Ahh well.. Already put in my order. I'll try and manage with the 3/16th. Thanks


----------



## WiSK

I finally tried those micro GPU pins. Hard to crimp with needle nose pliers. I broke a bunch of them









  

Shush yes I know: sleeving not very tight


----------



## stickg1

Okay so obviously there's some major reconstruction going on in my build, hence no GPU block yet and the QDC's, but I finished my GPU cable and just wanted some opinions on my first ever sleeve job! Whether they be criticism or praise, I'm very green to sleeving and trying to learn as much as I can. Thanks!

(I think I should have done one more gray wire on the top row. But I will have more gray when I sleeve the rest of the cables)


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I finally tried those micro GPU pins. Hard to crimp with needle nose pliers. I broke a bunch of them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shush yes I know: sleeving not very tight


Yikes. Looks hard to do. But I like your style. Always thought GPU manufacturers should make those normal 3/4 pin fan connectors. That way when you add a water block you can hook up another fan to blow directly on on the card.

But my current setup does that nicely with 6x GTs, the 2150 variant, fans on the door. Blowing directly over all the goods

Kudos to you for getting it done








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Okay so obviously there's some major reconstruction going on in my build, hence no GPU block yet and the QDC's, but I finished my GPU cable and just wanted some opinions on my first ever sleeve job! Whether they be criticism or praise, I'm very green to sleeving and trying to learn as much as I can. Thanks!
> 
> (I think I should have done one more gray wire on the top row. But I will have more gray when I sleeve the rest of the cables)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks nice minus the GPU block lol. But the build is looking great so far. I am actually in the process of getting everything together to do a yellow/grey/black build.

Yeah Id either add more grey or take it. And what do you think of flipping your PSU?? So the fan is facing up. That way the wires are already tucked toward the back and usually you can run them into a hole to get them right out of sight.


----------



## stickg1

It's a full modular PSU, I didn't tuck the wires on the PSU end away at all. I was more so just testing to see that my wires worked and looked decent up on the GPU end. I have to route them around the back of the case and clean up that cluster of wires at the bottom. I should have cropped the photo to hide that!


----------



## goodtobeking

Lol I got ya. It can be a pain rerunning wires a hundred times. Looking forward to seeing your build.


----------



## Lutro0

Thanks to allot of inspiration from other designs on the market LC has designed a new comb: LC CABLE COMB CODENAME: STEALTH

http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-cable-comb-codename-stealth





I hope you guys like them and I am glad to be able to offer them to people in the USA and Worldwide!


----------



## Big Elf

Can you post a pic of a side on view please? At first sight these don't seem to separate the wires as much as the original ones do, which is great.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Can you post a pic of a side on view please? At first sight these don't seem to separate the wires as much as the original ones do, which is great.


I cant right now but yes they are made specifically to keep the wires as close as possible as the material will allow without breaking or being too weak. Basically they look just like they are routed and trained perfectly!


----------



## lowfat

What would an 18 pin one be used for? Don't suppose you will be doing a 14 pin one which would be used the majority of higher end GPUs?

I do think this design is quite a bit better.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What would an 18 pin one be used for? Don't suppose you will be doing a 14 pin one which would be used the majority of higher end GPUs?
> 
> I do think this design is quite a bit better.


Good catch, I meant 14pin. I just switched it haha! And thanks for the kind words! Honestly Elders seller who makes some like these was a great inspiration. So much props to him!


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Looks great! It appears these have to be put on before the connectors correct?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Looks great! It appears these have to be put on before the connectors correct?


I think that's okay, unless you want to add them to a cable that you've made previously. I do agree they look nicer than other designs I've seen. Indeed props to Enders!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Looks great! It appears these have to be put on before the connectors correct?


Thanks and yes they do!


----------



## stickg1

I might have to just get some of the old style ones that can be put on already made cables. My GPU cables are out of control!

I do love this Teleios sleeving though. Way easier to get the right length than 550 paracord, for me anyway.

I'm debating on whether I should sleeve my entire 24pin cable or just make my own extension.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Nice job on the new combs lutro, so much better than the previous style. I bought a bunch of the old ones and was really disappointed by how they spread the wires out and made them impossible to get a naturally trained look.


----------



## morencyam

Yeah, I'm glad I ending up never buying any of the original combs now. I'll definitely grab some of these instead.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Will the combs stay put so to speak?


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Thanks to allot of inspiration from other designs on the market LC has designed a new comb: LC CABLE COMB CODENAME: STEALTH
> 
> http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-cable-comb-codename-stealth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you guys like them and I am glad to be able to offer them to people in the USA and Worldwide!


[Beast mode]YEAH![/beast mode]

Okay, question, what is the diameter on these holes? Imma pull the trigger on some combs.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Thanks to allot of inspiration from other designs on the market LC has designed a new comb: LC CABLE COMB CODENAME: STEALTH
> 
> http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-cable-comb-codename-stealth
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you guys like them and I am glad to be able to offer them to people in the USA and Worldwide!


Just started trying to sleeve my PSU for a new build, so this is good timing. I like the look, just picked some up.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Looks great! It appears these have to be put on before the connectors correct?


Yes the do, this gives them a better hold and keeps the cables straighter, but moreso than anything it looks more uniform.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I might have to just get some of the old style ones that can be put on already made cables. My GPU cables are out of control!
> 
> I do love this Teleios sleeving though. Way easier to get the right length than 550 paracord, for me anyway.
> 
> I'm debating on whether I should sleeve my entire 24pin cable or just make my own extension.


Id always say go for the whole cable if you have the time, a full sleeve job always looks better.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Nice job on the new combs lutro, so much better than the previous style. I bought a bunch of the old ones and was really disappointed by how they spread the wires out and made them impossible to get a naturally trained look.


Yea that was the general reviews we ere getting. The first batch was made to be stealthy as well but it was more for those that just wanted a snap on product, Something easy to attach and cable manage. This new batch is made for perfectionists that want only the best look.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Yeah, I'm glad I ending up never buying any of the original combs now. I'll definitely grab some of these instead.


Thanks bud!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Will the combs stay put so to speak?


Yes they are made tight enough to not slide anywhere, the sleeving no matter what type (minus perhaps super thin sleeving like Kobra Sleeve and the likes) will hold it into place.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> [Beast mode]YEAH![/beast mode]
> 
> Okay, question, what is the diameter on these holes? Imma pull the trigger on some combs.


It is around .15 inches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Just started trying to sleeve my PSU for a new build, so this is good timing. I like the look, just picked some up.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Looks great! It appears these have to be put on before the connectors correct?


Yup they need to either be put on before finishing the cable or they need to have the cable taken apart one by one to attach it. This is to make it more uniform and give that slick look.


----------



## morencyam

I already have all my cables sleeved and plan on pulling the pins out to slide these on. How easily will they slide over a wire with heat shrink already on it?

Also, on the website it says they will be available in clear or black but I see no option to choose color? How do I pick which color I want even ordering?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I already have all my cables sleeved and plan on pulling the pins out to slide these on. How easily will they slide over a wire with heat shrink already on it?
> 
> Also, on the website it says they will be available in clear or black but I see no option to choose color? How do I pick which color I want even ordering?


I just updated it to have black and clear, and yes they will! Thanks for asking!


----------



## lowfat

I ordered them before clear/black was an option. Hopefully you got the message I sent in regards to the ones I wanted.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I ordered them before clear/black was an option. Hopefully you got the message I sent in regards to the ones I wanted.


I will make sure that I forward the email.

Also can you send me a PM Lowfat?

Thanks.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I already have all my cables sleeved and plan on pulling the pins out to slide these on. How easily will they slide over a wire with heat shrink already on it?
> 
> Also, on the website it says they will be available in clear or black but I see no option to choose color? How do I pick which color I want even ordering?
> 
> 
> 
> I just updated it to have black and clear, and yes they will! Thanks for asking!
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I ordered them before clear/black was an option. Hopefully you got the message I sent in regards to the ones I wanted.


Same, I ordered before there was an option, but I wanted clear. How do I make sure that's what I get?

EDIT: Ninja'd above...guess I'll also PM.


----------



## Big Elf

How soon before the new combs are available at Specialtech in the UK? I bought a few of the old style ones to see what they were like but won't be using them (unless somebody specifically asks).


----------



## Neo Zuko

Hey Lutro0, if I ever get a job at your company do I have to change my "nick" to NeoZuko0?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> How soon before the new combs are available at Specialtech in the UK? I bought a few of the old style ones to see what they were like but won't be using them (unless somebody specifically asks).


They will be available at E22 within a week or so.

And E22 I believe resells to specialtech so I would believe it would be a quick turn around.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Hey Lutro0, if I ever get a job at your company do I have to change my "nick" to NeoZuko0?


haha no, my name is greek for redeemed in a biblical sence which is why it has 2 "o"s at the end, I just made the last one a zero.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I just updated it to have black and clear, and yes they will! Thanks for asking!


What would the cost be to put the clamps on a 24 pin, two 8 pins, and two 6 pin connectors?

-Zepp


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I just updated it to have black and clear, and yes they will! Thanks for asking!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What would the cost be to put the clamps on a 24 pin, two 8 pins, and two 6 pin connectors?
> 
> -Zepp
Click to expand...

Assuming you're wanting one of each...


Personally though I figured I would need 3 for the 24-pin...and I bought 3 for each 8-pin cable for my GPU, so a total of 6 8-pin clamps

My order was just shy of the 20 dollar minimum for the site though, so I ordered another Original Molex Extractor to put me over...also the one I currently have is well, crap.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> haha no, my name is greek for redeemed in a biblical sence which is why it has 2 "o"s at the end, I just made the last one a zero.


That's funny because the character of Zuko on Avatar: The Last Airbender was redeemed as well, not to mention that Neo "the one" Anderson was definitely biblical.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Assuming you're wanting one of each...
> 
> 
> Personally though I figured I would need 3 for the 24-pin...and I bought 3 for each 8-pin cable for my GPU, so a total of 6 8-pin clamps
> 
> My order was just shy of the 20 dollar minimum for the site though, so I ordered another Original Molex Extractor to put me over...also the one I currently have is well, crap.


I made a mistake and had the sleever from Lutro0 put on female molex connectors on a SATA splitter when I needed a male molex end. Might as well send back a few cables to get this done, right?


----------



## iamkraine

Remade my cables, not sleeved yet.









Thoughts?

By the way I'm ordering those new cables clamps from Lutro0.


----------



## Big Elf

What diameter is that wire, it looks close to 3mm?


----------



## weeklykill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Remade my cables, not sleeved yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> By the way I'm ordering those new cables clamps from Lutro0.


wich kind of sleeving is that?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weeklykill*
> 
> wich kind of sleeving is that?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Remade my cables, not sleeved yet.


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> What diameter is that wire, it looks close to 3mm?


Not exactly sure.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*


Thanks


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*


Just over 2.5mm, it looks thicker. Curious whether you can get sleeve over that and into the connector.


----------



## weeklykill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*


i didn't notice tht line LOL thx for the heads up wisk


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Remade my cables, not sleeved yet.
> 
> -snip-
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> By the way I'm ordering those new cables clamps from Lutro0.


With cables that nicely made you almost dont need any sleeving. Great job man!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> With cables that nicely made you almost dont need any sleeving. Great job man!


True


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> With cables that nicely made you almost dont need any sleeving. Great job man!


Wow thank you so much. You don't know how much that means to me.


----------



## Zooty Cat




----------



## stickg1

Not clean like some of yalls but I'm happy with it for my first sleeving try. I need to do my 24pin this weekend..


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zooty Cat*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So clean, looks great.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Thanks to allot of inspiration from other designs on the market LC has designed a new comb: LC CABLE COMB CODENAME: STEALTH
> 
> http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-cable-comb-codename-stealth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you guys like them and I am glad to be able to offer them to people in the USA and Worldwide!


Is it possible to get a couple 18-pin combs in black? My 24-pin splits into an 18-pin and a 10-pin halfway through. I was thinking about buying extra 24-pins and cutting them down to size, but decided to try asking first.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Is it possible to get a couple 18-pin combs in black? My 24-pin splits into an 18-pin and a 10-pin halfway through. I was thinking about buying extra 24-pins and cutting them down to size, but decided to try asking first.


Sure can. I will list the 18pin version right now.


----------



## stickg1

I'm not sure what happened but my SATA power cable I sleeved no longer works..

All the pins are in the right place and still in tact. No wires got cut or anything. I wonder what I did??


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I'm not sure what happened but my SATA power cable I sleeved no longer works..
> 
> All the pins are in the right place and still in tact. No wires got cut or anything. I wonder what I did??


Maybe they didn't get pushed in all the way and aren't making proper contact. I've had a Molex pin pop out when plugging it in because the little clip things didn't catch to lock it in place


----------



## the_cyberspace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Is it possible to get a couple 18-pin combs in black? My 24-pin splits into an 18-pin and a 10-pin halfway through.


You got a Corsair PSU right? I got the 760 and 760i version and i have the 10 and 18pin also. I want to place a couple off 24pins (mainboard side) and a few 18 and 10pins combs (PSU side).


----------



## Pimphare

I got my order from Lutro0 a few days ago woot! Sadly I've been too sick to do anything though. I must say that I'm impressed with the quality of sleeving and can't wait to work with this stuff!


----------



## abirli

When did the 8 pin gpu connecters start coming fused?

IMG_4270.png 873k .png file


----------



## vinny200

Hello, help needed

This is my current wiring for my 8pin to 6+2 pin PCI-E Cable. From an OCZ power supply that worked before I began sleeving.

I took each wire out and sleeved each cable once and a time.
After finishing the wiring my computer didn't boot up because of the cable. I expect that I have wired it up wrong?

Do you think it would be possible to take a look at the photo I've drawn up to give me any tips of where I may have gone wrong? Thanks a lot, Vince


----------



## Big Elf

Are the wires coloured Black and Yellow? If so can you indicate on the diagram which is which.

*DO NOT plug this cable into the GPU again until the wiring has been sorted and tested*. Use a PSU tester or Multi-Meter before doing so. It's likely the GPU has already been damaged so don't take any more chances.

Edit: If you want to know how to use a multi-meter to check just ask.


----------



## Devildog83

I just have some info for any who might be interested, I have ordered a sleeved 24 pin cable to match my PCI-E cables and LED strips for under the edges of my motherboard from modDiy.com and it was a big mistake. I ordered them Jan 24th and still no word on if or when they are going to shipped.I understand the Chinese New Year thing but holy cow this is crazy. My step-son ordered a full set of cables from them 6 weeks a ago and they are lost and can't be found, they have offered to remake and reship them but that will take weeks for him to get them because they are shipped from China. Their cables are very nice and I needed to match but this has been a huge mistake. I do not recommend ever getting anything from them. They also can't be contacted except through Face-Book anymore, they used to have a phone# you could call to order and get info about an order but not now. This is no way to run a business IMHO and I will make it a mission to let as many people know that I can.

End of rant.


----------



## Big Elf

Just a reminder about the *Repository of Power Supply Pin Outs*. I've noticed there's quite a few people who post regularly on here who've sleeved their PSU(s) but haven't posted a pin-out. It would be much appreciated if you could take the time to do so.

If you need any help with doing it send me a pm and I'll try to help.


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I just have some info for any who might be interested, I have ordered a sleeved 24 pin cable to match my PCI-E cables and LED strips for under the edges of my motherboard from modDiy.com and it was a big mistake. I ordered them Jan 24th and still no word on if or when they are going to shipped.I understand the Chinese New Year thing but holy cow this is crazy. My step-son ordered a full set of cables from them 6 weeks a ago and they are lost and can't be found, they have offered to remake and reship them but that will take weeks for him to get them because they are shipped from China. Their cables are very nice and I needed to match but this has been a huge mistake. I do not recommend ever getting anything from them. They also can't be contacted except through Face-Book anymore, they used to have a phone# you could call to order and get info about an order but not now. This is no way to run a business IMHO and I will make it a mission to let as many people know that I can.
> 
> End of rant.


From Jan 31st to Feb 9th, while we were busy ordering stuff off the ModDiy website in the happy assumption that it was all still in stock - in spite of the big red warning on every entry page that supplies couldn't be guaranteed until after the holiday - everybody in China was equally busy turning from a snake into a horse - or whatever it is they do at the New year.

There is now a great big red warning on every entry page about the thousand order backlog that it will take them the next 7 days to catch up with. I'm fairly certain they are getting on with this because I had 4 orders outstanding with them and three of them are now on their way. Luckily, the big, first order hasn't been completed yet, so I still have some planning time left.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> From Jan 31st to Feb 9th, while we were busy ordering stuff off the ModDiy website in the happy assumption that it was all still in stock - in spite of the big red warning on every entry page that supplies couldn't be guaranteed until after the holiday - everybody in China was equally busy turning from a snake into a horse - or whatever it is they do at the New year.
> 
> There is now a great big red warning on every entry page about the thousand order backlog that it will take them the next 7 days to catch up with. I'm fairly certain they are getting on with this because I had 4 orders outstanding with them and three of them are now on their way. Luckily, the big, first order hasn't been completed yet, so I still have some planning time left.


I read about the 7 days but it's been 9 days and still no word from them, they didn't even post the big red warning until after I complained on Facebook. It would have been nice to get a heads up as I don't keep up on Chinese holidays and had no idea that everyone in China takes 3 weeks off. Any further sleeving needs I have will be coming from Lutro0 Customs, I should have done that in the first place.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I understand the Chinese New Year thing but holy cow this is crazy.


I understand you are frustrated to have to wait, but sleeved cables are hand-made to order. Even someone very experienced would take several hours to do a full set. Depending how many orders they have, the lead time on production is going to be weeks even if it's not an incredibly busy period. Think it's probably good that they don't have a phone number any more, less interruptions means more time to deal with order backlog









You could also have had the sleeving done by someone locally, but paid two or three times the price.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I understand you are frustrated to have to wait, but sleeved cables are hand-made to order. Even someone very experienced would take several hours to do a full set. Depending how many orders they have, the lead time on production is going to be weeks even if it's not an incredibly busy period. Think it's probably good that they don't have a phone number any more, less interruptions means more time to deal with order backlog
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also have had the sleeving done by someone locally, but paid two or three times the price.


I understand all of that but I ordered on the 1st day of the Chinese New Year and only ordered 1 24-pin cable and a light strip. If the backlog started on that day mine should have been the one of the 1st to be filled. The 4 x PCI-E cables I got for X-Mas took 3 weeks including shipping and customs, these haven't even been shipped yet. You can't tell me that it should take them 2 weeks to get caught up the to 1st day of the Holiday when they said it would take 1 week to catch up the whole 1000 orders. I have dealt with companies from all over the world and never experienced anything like this.

I guess I am arguing about this too much but some plans should have been put in place for this and customers should have been warned.


----------



## iamkraine

Haven't had much time to work on the build and waiting for sleeving to arrive. Was able to finished one of the Sata Power cables though.







Once the combs from Lutro0 get here, they'll finally be prefect


----------



## Neo Zuko

I decided to go with Lutro0 for my first sleeving job. I have no idea if its better than all the other brands, but I feel confident that they are better than anyone else here in the USA. Ordering from overseas is expensive in my experience. I even put in in my drop down rig list










Color is a tough choice, but black and red are my favorite colors, might add a dash of purple.

Question though, should I make my own PSU cables for my Corsair AX760i or sleeve the ones that came with it? Any hard do and do nots for a noob?


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I decided to go with Lutro0 for my first sleeving job. I have no idea if its better than all the other brands, but I feel confident that they are better than anyone else here in the USA. Ordering from overseas is expensive in my experience. I even put in in my drop down rig list
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Color is a tough choice, but black and red are my favorite colors, might add a dash of purple.
> 
> Question though, should I make my own PSU cables for my Corsair AX760i or sleeve the ones that came with it? Any hard do and do nots for a noob?


There are a bunch of independents that sleeve cables really well. UPC for one

And it's up to you, id make my own cables for the cleanest runs.

Do buy the proper tools, don't skimp. If it isn't perfect do it over


----------



## Neo Zuko

Oh yea, I want the tools, clean runs, etc. Custom lengths are where its at.


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Oh yea, I want the tools, clean runs, etc. Custom lengths are where its at.


It may be cheaper to just buy custom cables instead of buying all the tools and supplies


----------



## Neo Zuko

Yes, but I want to climb that mountain myself because its there mocking me







and I'm a bit of an artist by nature. And have you seen my rig drop down list, I'm clearly not worried about money. But it will take more time to acquire it all of course.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Yes, but I want to climb that mountain myself because its there mocking me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I'm a bit of an artist by nature. And have you seen my rig drop down list, I'm clearly not worried about money. But it will take more time to acquire it all of course.


Tons of FAQs in this forum. Lutro0's Telios line of sleeving gets great marks for stiffness yet pliability and tight weave.


----------



## Zooty Cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Yes, but I want to climb that mountain myself because its there mocking me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I'm a bit of an artist by nature. And have you seen my rig drop down list, I'm clearly not worried about money. But it will take more time to acquire it all of course.


Good luck with your sleeving. The more you do it the better you will get at it. My suggestion is to make some extensions first. That way you can get your rig up and running while you work on cabling, and it is a good way to practice without using up some much sleeving while you learn.

The Corsairs power supplies have their own quirks with double wires and 18 and 10 pin connectors but Corsair is my power supply of choice. Also be willing to redo a cable if it is not exactly what you want.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Couple of quick questions, the new cable combs from Lutro0, do they slide up and down the cables easy or once you get them in place do they just pretty much stay there not a problem? Also are they very fragile or are they pretty sturdy and strong?

Thanks









P.S. Damn you Lutro0 you released the combs a day after my last order was shipped


----------



## Neo Zuko

I got the impression they could be broken if you are rough with them. He said he was making them to stay placed and be as invisible IE as thin as possible.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Couple of quick questions, the new cable combs from Lutro0, do they slide up and down the cables easy or once you get them in place do they just pretty much stay there not a problem? Also are they very fragile or are they pretty sturdy and strong?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. Damn you Lutro0 you released the combs a day after my last order was shipped


They are actually nice and thick, you could brake them but you would have to try I think unless you are very rough with them. They do slide even too easy for me but my cables may not be as thick as some. I honestly am not overly impressed with the looks, now that they are in my system, it's not horrible but I am going to try some other options. Maybe I am just picky. For the 24 pin cables they do look very nice and are not too visible but the 6 and 8 pin they kind of stick out.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I got the impression they could be broken if you are rough with them. He said he was making them to stay placed and be as invisible IE as thin as possible.


Ah yeah, makes sense
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> They are actually nice and thick, you could brake them but you would have to try I think unless you are very rough with them. They do slide even too easy for me but my cables may not be as thick as some. I honestly am not overly impressed with the looks, now that they are in my system, it's not horrible but I am going to try some other options. Maybe I am just picky. For the 24 pin cables they do look very nice and are not too visible but the 6 and 8 pin they kind of stick out.


Thats what I was worrise about that they would slide to easy seeing Im using para and its pretty tight on the cable, yeah the looks is whats kinda holding me back, on my 24 and 8 pin CPU they would be pretty much hidden but the PCI cables... thats a lot of cable and I dunno if the glossy black would suit it, may have to buy a few and see how they look dulled down a bit and flat black

Thanks to both of you


----------



## Neo Zuko

You could stitch them together with colored thread or a small weaving stitch but that would take forever.


----------



## Neo Zuko

How about a custom mold strip you could use and reuse with liquid tape? It comes in a few colors. Just like the combs but with liquid tape?

Anyway I'm going to just let mine hang all loose (like a boss) and clamp them down in a few spots with metal bars that match my case.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> You could stitch them together with colored thread or a small weaving stitch but that would take forever.


I have stitched one of my 8 pin PCI cables... hence why the cable combs caught my attention







stitching takes forever








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> How about a custom mold strip you could use and reuse with liquid tape? It comes in a few colors. Just like the combs but with liquid tape?
> 
> Anyway I'm going to just let mine hang all loose (like a boss) and clamp them down in a few spots with metal bars that match my case.


Theres an idea









I think Lutro0 will be getting more of my money, probably will buy some of the combs and see how they go


----------



## Devildog83

This is what they look like, the 24 pin looks ok but I have one coming that match's the PCI-E cables. Those clips really show up though. I needed 6 more to finish.


----------



## ledzepp3

Gotta train 'em like dogs.




-Zepp


----------



## Elder

I keep a low profile


----------



## ledzepp3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> I keep a low profile






Gorgeous, have any pictures of the build? I've always had a love for X58 builds, moreso than any other kind







as well, link a bro to dem cable combs?

-Zepp


----------



## Elder

OFC...check this...
http://www.abload.de/gallery.php?key=kVvyczYN


----------



## abirli

looks good! here are some extensions i did for someone in Kuwait

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/IMG_40751_zps6fdd1232.jpg.html

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/IMG_40771_zpsf6f49cea.jpg.html

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/IMG_40781_zps00d1e31a.jpg.html

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/IMG_40791_zpsff9252f4.jpg.html

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/IMG_40801_zps48851493.jpg.html

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/IMG_40811_zps0df651b0.jpg.html


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> OFC...check this...
> http://www.abload.de/gallery.php?key=kVvyczYN


And the cable combs? They look phenomenal!


----------



## Elder

*abirli* @ nice pics









*ledzepp3* tons of cable comb pics is here:
http://www.abload.de/gallery.php?key=sw3aqRlX
New and old clamp prototypes,headphone dibond/acrylic stands etc...


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> I keep a low profile
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks great, really like it.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> *abirli* @ nice pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ledzepp3* tons of cable comb pics is here:
> http://www.abload.de/gallery.php?key=sw3aqRlX
> New and old clamp prototypes,headphone dibond/acrylic stands etc...


Where can you buy the cable combs, those are perfect?


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Where can you buy the cable combs, those are perfect?


You can buy them here http://lutro0-customs.com/collections/cable-managment


----------



## stickg1

I forgot to add them to my order I placed Sunday! Grrrr, I did send a message via the website about an hour after I placed the order asking if I could add them and never got a response until today, about 30 minutes after I got the notification that the order had shipped. I'm a little disappointed to be honest. But after all it was my fault for forgetting. I just think that the 38 hours between sending the message and the order being shipped was ample time for someone to read and respond. Oh well. Now the amount of combs I need doesn't meet the $20 minimum so I will have to buy stuff I don't want or need just to get them. Unless someone else sells these combs?


----------



## Neo Zuko

When we are all old and still building PCs, do we have to switch to Comb-Overs?


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> I keep a low profile


I want to get these combs, I did not see these at lotro0 customs.


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I want to get these combs, I did not see these at lotro0 customs.


http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-cable-comb-codename-stealth Just pick the color and size


----------



## Elder

This is what I posted in the pictures is from this store:
http://www.modding.bit-tech.pl/sklep/en/47-cable-comb
Shipping only to EU countries (probably).

Edit:
Price in PLN ... not euro.
1 euro= 4.20 PLN


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Cant decide which combs Im gonna get, the old ones look more minimalistic and hidden which is awesome but a little bulky where as the new ones are sleek and in a way elegant but kinda in your face and may stand out

How many combs do you guys generally buy? I was thinking maybe 3 - 5 each cable but Im not sure lol


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Cant decide which combs Im gonna get, the old ones look more minimalistic and hidden which is awesome but a little bulky where as the new ones are sleek and in a way elegant but kinda in your face and may stand out
> 
> How many combs do you guys generally buy? I was thinking maybe 3 - 5 each cable but Im not sure lol


Good question, Since I'm sleeving my PSU's cables (Seasonic X650), towards the PSU end it gets a little messy with cables crossing over each other. So I was just going to get three for each cable so they could somewhat hold their shape where they will show in the case.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Good question, Since I'm sleeving my PSU's cables (Seasonic X650), towards the PSU end it gets a little messy with cables crossing over each other. So I was just going to get three for each cable so they could somewhat hold their shape where they will show in the case.


Ah yeah, Im thinking of maybe kinda fudging it, having a one or two combs on the mobo end then one or two on the PSU end to keep it looking neat... then on the back side of my case just cable ties







. My PSU does the same thing, cables cross over each other at the PSU end

How many for PCI cables do you guys think? I was thinking maybe 2 or 3 to keep the cables neat going to the GPU


----------



## Elder

In Seasonic Platinum 1000XP or X-560 Gold series 24pin is terribly tangled ... up to 3/4 of the length it can be sort out.
I have not found a solution to the whole ideal sort out.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> In Seasonic Platinum 1000XP or X-560 Gold series 24pin is terribly tangled ... up to 3/4 of the length it can be sort out.
> I have not found a solution to the whole ideal sort out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks exactly like my 24, 8 and 6 pins lol its a pita sometimes









I tried stitching my 24 with that kinda mess... didnt turn out so good


----------



## stickg1

I sleeved almost 3/4 of my 24pin and ran out of material. Plus I was leaving a few cables to be done in a new color I just ordered. Unfortunately, the few cables left to sleeve are all double wires. So I'm saving it for this weekend when I have time to bust out the soldering iron.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I sleeved almost 3/4 of my 24pin and ran out of material. Plus I was leaving a few cables to be done in a new color I just ordered. Unfortunately, the few cables left to sleeve are all double wires. So I'm saving it for this weekend when I have time to bust out the soldering iron.


Double wires







bane of all of us I think

I got annoyed with my double wires so I decided Im rebuilding pretty much all my cables from scratch so I have no excess or extra connections


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> This is what I posted in the pictures is from this store:
> http://www.modding.bit-tech.pl/sklep/en/47-cable-comb
> Shipping only to EU countries (probably).


That's a bummer to EU only, I really like those. I like the rounded ones from lutro0 too but my cables are already custom made and I would have to remove the pins from one end and slide them all on and then replace the pins. I am not sure I want to do that but I know I don't like the ones I bought from lutro0, they are a bit too bulky. I guess if I can't get the best ones I will have to learn how too remove and replace the pins.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Couple of quick questions, the new cable combs from Lutro0, do they slide up and down the cables easy or once you get them in place do they just pretty much stay there not a problem? Also are they very fragile or are they pretty sturdy and strong?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. Damn you Lutro0 you released the combs a day after my last order was shipped


Haha, The brand new ones (Codename: Stealth) dont slide around but are easy to slide into place. As with anything that is small and made of acrylic they are no the strongest thing in the world however if you are careful they would be hard to break.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> They are actually nice and thick, you could brake them but you would have to try I think unless you are very rough with them. They do slide even too easy for me but my cables may not be as thick as some. I honestly am not overly impressed with the looks, now that they are in my system, it's not horrible but I am going to try some other options. Maybe I am just picky. For the 24 pin cables they do look very nice and are not too visible but the 6 and 8 pin they kind of stick out.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> This is what they look like, the 24 pin looks ok but I have one coming that match's the PCI-E cables. Those clips really show up though. I needed 6 more to finish.


We actually have a new version out there now you might want to check out. But yea it really all comes down to preference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Ah yeah, makes sense
> Thats what I was worrise about that they would slide to easy seeing Im using para and its pretty tight on the cable, yeah the looks is whats kinda holding me back, on my 24 and 8 pin CPU they would be pretty much hidden but the PCI cables... thats a lot of cable and I dunno if the glossy black would suit it, may have to buy a few and see how they look dulled down a bit and flat black
> 
> Thanks to both of you


Check out the new ones =)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I forgot to add them to my order I placed Sunday! Grrrr, I did send a message via the website about an hour after I placed the order asking if I could add them and never got a response until today, about 30 minutes after I got the notification that the order had shipped. I'm a little disappointed to be honest. But after all it was my fault for forgetting. I just think that the 38 hours between sending the message and the order being shipped was ample time for someone to read and respond. Oh well. Now the amount of combs I need doesn't meet the $20 minimum so I will have to buy stuff I don't want or need just to get them. Unless someone else sells these combs?


Send me a PM and I will make sure to get you anything you missed on your last order.







We have streamlined our shipping so it goes pretty fast now so as you found out if you are in line to be packed your order gets done asap. But if you ever get stuck in a situation like we will do our best to send another shipment if needed. I am also lowering the Min order now that we have our shipping sorted out!







Thanks for your orders!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> That's a bummer to EU only, I really like those. I like the rounded ones from lutro0 too but my cables are already custom made and I would have to remove the pins from one end and slide them all on and then replace the pins. I am not sure I want to do that but I know I don't like the ones I bought from lutro0, they are a bit too bulky. I guess if I can't get the best ones I will have to learn how too remove and replace the pins.


It may take a little time to do, but its is a really easy process. I decided to make this series closed as it really holds the wires uniformly and adds a bit of strength to the design.



Also as you can see the newer ones fit a bit better and hold the cables tight.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> looks good! here are some extensions i did for someone in Kuwait
> 
> http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/IMG_40751_zps6fdd1232.jpg.html
> 
> http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/IMG_40771_zpsf6f49cea.jpg.html
> 
> http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/IMG_40781_zps00d1e31a.jpg.html
> 
> http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/IMG_40791_zpsff9252f4.jpg.html
> 
> http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/IMG_40801_zps48851493.jpg.html
> 
> http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/IMG_40811_zps0df651b0.jpg.html


That color combo is perfect which colors are those?


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Double wires
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bane of all of us I think
> 
> I got annoyed with my double wires so I decided Im rebuilding pretty much all my cables from scratch so I have no excess or extra connections


How does that work? How do you avoid it even when making your own? My first instinct would be to copy it as I would be afraid to make a wire that would mess up my power delivery.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Haha, The brand new ones (Codename: Stealth) dont slide around but are easy to slide into place. As with anything that is small and made of acrylic they are no the strongest thing in the world however if you are careful they would be hard to break.
> 
> We actually have a new version out there now you might want to check out. But yea it really all comes down to preference.
> Check out the new ones =)
> Send me a PM and I will make sure to get you anything you missed on your last order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We have streamlined our shipping so it goes pretty fast now so as you found out if you are in line to be packed your order gets done asap. But if you ever get stuck in a situation like we will do our best to send another shipment if needed. I am also lowering the Min order now that we have our shipping sorted out!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your orders!
> 
> It may take a little time to do, but its is a really easy process. I decided to make this series closed as it really holds the wires uniformly and adds a bit of strength to the design.
> 
> 
> 
> Also as you can see the newer ones fit a bit better and hold the cables tight.


I will order the new ones from you soon. I will most likely need to get a pin removal tool also. Getting these cables the way I want the way I want them is about the last thing that needs to be done for my rig to be finished. Then I will tear it all down and do a build log.


----------



## Elder

Next step...SATA


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> How does that work? How do you avoid it even when making your own? My first instinct would be to copy it as I would be afraid to make a wire that would mess up my power delivery.


By making your own cables it makes it a bit easier to customize the pinout. But honestly double wires are just time consuming. If you use the splice wire method it makes quick work of them.




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I will order the new ones from you soon. I will most likely need to get a pin removal tool also. Getting these cables the way I want the way I want them is about the last thing that needs to be done for my rig to be finished. Then I will tear it all down and do a build log.


Awesome! You will like them - I have used them in a bunch of builds now and I include them in all custom OEM jobs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> Next step...SATA


Those will look great when done. Good idea!


----------



## Ovrclck

@Elder
Where can I find those sata comb things? Looks great!


----------



## stickg1

What size heatshrink do I use to slip over a sleeve and 3pin fan connector?

Also how do you sleeve a SATA cable? Does the sleeving slip over the connector? And what size heatshrink do you use for those?


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What size heatshrink do I use to slip over a sleeve and 3pin fan connector?
> 
> Also how do you sleeve a SATA cable? Does the sleeving slip over the connector? And what size heatshrink do you use for those?


I use a 10mm length of the 6mm (MDPC-X small size) on the end next to each connector and then for the female end I add 17mm of 12mm (MDPC-X SATA size) heatshrink over the connector and the small heatshrink and for the male shielded connectors I use an additional 22mm of 12mm heatshrink.



There's a video guide to sleeving SATA data cables 



. It should say in the video but 12mm or MDPC-X SATA heatshrink is best.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> Next step...SATA


A very neat solution, well done.


----------



## Elder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> A very neat solution, well done.


THX








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> @Elder
> Where can I find those sata comb things? Looks great!


This is the prototype ... specialy for Akasa Pro Slim SATA.
Will be available for purchase in the Bit-Tech Store next week with what I know.
I got to test the sample.

Also received a new quad combs (molex & SATA):





Tomorrow I will mount and pics as it looks on the power cables molex and SATA.
I had arranged not only 24pin, 8pin, 6pin and also sata and molex ...
all cables that are visible.


----------



## Ovrclck

Very cool! Looking forward to this product! Thanks man


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> That color combo is perfect which colors are those?


Mdpc red and black


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> By making your own cables it makes it a bit easier to customize the pinout. But honestly double wires are just time consuming. If you use the splice wire method it makes quick work of them.


Always like your videos Lutro0...very informative and even somewhat entertaining.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Does the Lutro0 red and black look close to that combo by any chance?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Does the Lutro0 red and black look close to that combo by any chance?


----------



## Neo Zuko

So a bit more Ferrari red then.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> So a bit more Ferrari red then.


They are about the same, but the lighting in his pics is darker.


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> In Seasonic Platinum 1000XP or X-560 Gold series 24pin is terribly tangled ... up to 3/4 of the length it can be sort out.
> I have not found a solution to the whole ideal sort out.


How far away from it's original position can a volt signal wire be safely terminated?

In the Double Wire video the criterion for choosing the position of the splice is that it should be 'in the back of the case or hidden'. As Mike says, 'you don't want to put it coming right out of the power supply because then you'll be able to see it unless you have a case or enclosure on it.'

In the thread, bad-modular-design-silverstone-st45sf-g, WiSK in answer to the question by 2002dunx, 'Could you make a short extension to do the "twist" and then have a "tidy" extension to the mo-bo ?', replies, 'I thought about this. If I had a full tower case then it would be the obvious solution.'

So if the splice can be anywhere along the target wire the 'obvious solution' for any sleever is to make up an adaptor for any PSU they have with doubled and/or crossed over wires.

Here are the twists and doublings in my Seasonic X760 Gold:


Which can then be arranged either as a standard adaptor:


..or for a particular sleeving job:


All that is then needed is to devise/design a Polymorph case for the adaptor and the sleeving is then a simple 1-to-1 extension.


----------



## Big Elf

Something like this?


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> So a bit more Ferrari red then.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> So a bit more Ferrari red then.


Very hard to tell the difference in color, and as lutro0 said my photos are edited

here is Lutro0s same photo but with mdpc red,

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abi...6-4739-86A5-D9D90FD4210B_zpsongzjlov.jpg.html


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> How far away from it's original position can a volt signal wire be safely terminated?
> 
> In the Double Wire video the criterion for choosing the position of the splice is that it should be 'in the back of the case or hidden'. As Mike says, 'you don't want to put it coming right out of the power supply because then you'll be able to see it unless you have a case or enclosure on it.'
> 
> In the thread, bad-modular-design-silverstone-st45sf-g, WiSK in answer to the question by 2002dunx, 'Could you make a short extension to do the "twist" and then have a "tidy" extension to the mo-bo ?', replies, 'I thought about this. If I had a full tower case then it would be the obvious solution.'
> 
> So if the splice can be anywhere along the target wire the 'obvious solution' for any sleever is to make up an adaptor for any PSU they have with doubled and/or crossed over wires.
> 
> All that is then needed is to devise/design a Polymorph case for the adaptor and the sleeving is then a simple 1-to-1 extension.


Thats a great idea, and allot of people have done so in mods that have psu shrouds so they can hide that part. But one would need a way of hiding that part so its not seen.

Also I have done a split as long as 8-12 from the psu in very large cases. But you always want to keep the split as close to the psu while still being hid in the back of the case.


----------



## Elder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> How far away from it's original position can a volt signal wire be safely terminated?


In Seasonic Platinum 1000XP ... 4 or 5 inch.
Enough.


----------



## kpoeticg

My latest donation to Lutro =)


----------



## stickg1

I found this when I was looking for something else at the hardware store. I'll see if it comes in handy later!


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Hey everyone,

Sorry I haven't posted in this thread in awhile. My father passed away back in January and I've been having a difficult time these last few months. It came out of the blue and very sudden. But anyways,I'm back and hope to post some on my work. I've got to place an order or three and get the rest of the stuff I need to finish my build. Hope to have it up and running in the next couple weeks.









I do have a question as I've somewhat been following recent posts. I've noticed many of you have your cables running perfectly parallel from one connector to another. Mainly seen with the 24-pin cable and some others as well. So my question is this,how do you all get your cables to run perfectly parallel?









Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## Zooty Cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> Sorry I haven't posted in this thread in awhile. My father passed away back in January and I've been having a difficult time these last few months. It came out of the blue and very sudden. But anyways,I'm back and hope to post some on my work. I've got to place an order or three and get the rest of the stuff I need to finish my build. Hope to have it up and running in the next couple weeks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do have a question as I've somewhat been following recent posts. I've noticed many of you have your cables running perfectly parallel from one connector to another. Mainly seen with the 24-pin cable and some others as well. So my question is this,how do you all get your cables to run perfectly parallel?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolf_Fangs1381


For your dad be strong









You can make the cable run parallel or side by side but several thing have to be done right. Each cable needs to be the right length with bends and mounting taken into account. You will also need to account for double cables and crossovers. Most importantly once you start sleeving make sure the sleeving is tight.


----------



## kpoeticg

*edit*

I just ended up ordering 250 of the male duponts from moddiy for like 19 bux


----------



## stickg1

Still sleeving! But startin' to get somewhere at least...


----------



## kpoeticg

stickg, rigs looking great bro


----------



## stickg1

Finished! Everything works! Now onto the loop!




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> stickg, rigs looking great bro


Thanks man! A lot of hours spent so far and I only have half of my parts!


----------



## PCModderMike

Looks like @Lutro0 could do a little better on the QC with his cable combs. Having to peel the backing off of them, and remove some of the stuck plugs isn't a huge deal just an annoyance really...but the fact that there's a hole not cut all of the way through on this one is a bit of a bummer and makes it useless.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I have two questions.

1. How do I know if I want to do heat shrink less or not? Any pros or cons and what do most people do?

2. What are those bands some people use to bunch up the single sleeved cables. They look like rubber bands or even metal bands.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I have two questions.
> 
> 1. How do I know if I want to do heat shrink less or not? Any pros or cons and what do most people do?
> 
> 2. What are those bands some people use to bunch up the single sleeved cables. They look like rubber bands or even metal bands.


1. It's totally up to you. Shrinkless is much easier to do since it's extremely difficult to keep heatshrink perfectly lined up, and it's also stronger so you can normally get the sleeve tighter on the wire.

2. Zipties?


----------



## lowfat

The ones that look like rubber bands is likely heatshrink.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Here is what I mean:

http://www.overclock.net/t/940461/official-case-labs-owners-club/5010#post_21879820


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Here is what I mean:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/940461/official-case-labs-owners-club/5010#post_21879820


They look like custom cut aluminum strips to me. Never seen them before, and 99% sure they don't sell them anywhere.


----------



## kpoeticg

Just ask @B NEGATIVE in his build log. Here http://www.overclock.net/t/1416559/sponsored-cl0s3-impact-main-loom-made-up


----------



## lowfat

Got my Lutro0 stealth combs today. First impressions.

Installed one on a shrinkless sleeved stock Silverstone 24-pin. I found the comb too tight for some of the cables. Due to the imperfect crimp on the stock cable I couldn't fit the comb over the crimp after it has been shrinkless sleeved. I had to cut back the sleeve and recrimp the cable. I can see these combs not working at all w/ sleeving using heatshrink.

They are very tight on the cable. On a 24-pin it is rather difficult to move it up and down the wire. On a straight through extension it wouldn't have this problem.

Quality seems ok. Out of the ~ 20 combs I bought, one of them has a rough edge.

It does look good though. Even just a single comb in the middle of a 24-pin can make it look quite a bit better.

Will post pics tomorrow when the sun is up.


----------



## PCModderMike

Lutro0 stealth combs in place. Have to agree with lowfat, it's a tight fit and I can't imagine using these if using heatshrink. Shrinkless is the way to go.



Also, this is my first full sleeve job, so forgive me if it's not the best.


----------



## Devildog83

Those don't look bad at all. May I ask why you didn't get the black ones?

By the way I think they are intended to be but on when you are sleeving but I will be doing the same thing with mine and I am glad I am heat-shrinkless also.


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zooty Cat*
> 
> For your dad be strong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can make the cable run parallel or side by side but several thing have to be done right. Each cable needs to be the right length with bends and mounting taken into account. You will also need to account for double cables and crossovers. Most importantly once you start sleeving make sure the sleeving is tight.


Thank you. It's greatly appreciated. My life has been a mess for years (battling depression,anxiety,etc),not that I'm looking for sympathy,but I know not having my dad is going to make it even harder. But I've made it this far and I got to keep moving forward the best I can.

Well that seems to be a little more complicated than I want to get involved with at this stage. I've been messing with computers for like 12-13 years now and this is my first time going the extra mile making the interior look nice with sleeved cables. I am starting to come around to the looks of the individual sleeved wires cause at first I wasn't to crazy about it. I wouldn't mind reading about how to do it as I do have an old psu laying around that I could mess with. Is there a tutorial available on how to do the parallel sleeved cables?

Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Those don't look bad at all. May I ask why you didn't get the black ones?
> 
> By the way I think they are intended to be but on when you are sleeving but I will be doing the same thing with mine and I am glad I am heat-shrinkless also.


Just personal preference, I like the clear.


----------



## stickg1

Mike next time one of us has a PSU to sleeve we should get a twelve pack and team up, lol.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Mike next time one of us has a PSU to sleeve we should get a twelve pack and team up, lol.


lol








Sounds like it would be fun, but I'm afraid to think of how bad my sleeving would turn out, and also how torn up my fingers would be.


----------



## lowfat

Finally a picture where I actually was able to get vanilla sands to show the proper colour.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-2-3.jpg.html


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Looks like @Lutro0 could do a little better on the QC with his cable combs. Having to peel the backing off of them, and remove some of the stuck plugs isn't a huge deal just an annoyance really...but the fact that there's a hole not cut all of the way through on this one is a bit of a bummer and makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> >


Mike, I am sorry we missed that one. As you can imagine we are just keeping our head over the water with these combs lol. Please get in contact with us and we will get it taken care of for sure!


----------



## amatthie

Will these cable combs fit on the LC Custom 16 awg wire w/ mdpc sleeve??


----------



## iamkraine

Sleeved, combs included, no nice


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Looks like @Lutro0 could do a little better on the QC with his cable combs. Having to peel the backing off of them, and remove some of the stuck plugs isn't a huge deal just an annoyance really...but the fact that there's a hole not cut all of the way through on this one is a bit of a bummer and makes it useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> >
> 
> 
> 
> Mike, I am sorry we missed that one. As you can imagine we are just keeping our head over the water with these combs lol. Please get in contact with us and we will get it taken care of for sure!
Click to expand...

Appreciate you reaching out. Yea I can only imagine how busy you guys are, keep it up you're doing a great job. It's just one comb so don't worry about it, really not the worth the hassle of trying to get another one shipped out.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Damn this thread, just did another big order from Lutro0 for $34 worth of the new stealth cable combs







, black combs on black para, going for that fully stealthed look









I think I should really start getting to work on my cables... my last order was for 150 terminal pin thingys









Edit, does it matter if you use 16awg wire instead of 18awg for PSU cables?


----------



## PCModderMike

I should stop taking pics, and finish my 24 pin.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I've decided against combs myself. I don't like the look of them and I'm not sure I want all my cables all separate like that. I kinda of like the metal strapped mass spaghetti style, its more Matrix like







Mind you I still like single cable sleeving.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I've decided against combs myself. I don't like the look of them and I'm not sure I want all my cables all separate like that. I kinda of like the metal strapped mass spaghetti style, its more Matrix like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mind you I still like single cable sleeving.


So you're going for the B-neg style?


----------



## stickg1

@B NEGATIVE wiring looks slick. It wouldn't be the first time someone copied that man, he comes up with some great ideas. I'm actually working on copying his LED setup, lol. I was going to put a nice note in my log giving him credit for it when I'm done.


----------



## PCModderMike

Imitation is the highest form of flattery, right? I think a big reason a lot of people hang on OCN is so they can bounce ideas off of each other, and see what other people are doing. It's always nice finding new ideas.


----------



## Neo Zuko

TAE BO Negative Style LOL. Yep it looks sweet, I see no reason to be original here. Honestly, there are some I should just look at post histories for a few hours and learn. He's one of them.

There should be like a Wikipedia of PC building tips online. I don't know why, but for some reason when B Neg says something I pay attention more. Like I was going to do DDC pumps until I saw B Neg favor the D5s. He is the Watercooling Acrylic Pipe Bending thread master, who am I to argue?

That said, I have modular artistic ideas for my build log that I have never seen anyone do...


----------



## lowfat

A pic w/ the comb in place.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-7-2.jpg.html


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> A pic w/ the comb in place.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-7-2.jpg.html


Those are rather stealthy, looks like you could use 3 or 4 more.


----------



## iamkraine

How to make molex to sata power cables? Will 4 16 awg wires really provide enough juice?


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> How to make molex to sata power cables? Will 4 16 awg wires really provide enough juice?


I think once you start worrying about the current carrying ability of 16ga wire, what you should really be worried about is the connector.

if you're doing this for harddrives, and not something weird, 16ga is incredibly adequate, and nothing to worry about, like, ever.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> I think once you start worrying about the current carrying ability of 16ga wire, what you should really be worried about is the connector.
> 
> if you're doing this for harddrives, and not something weird, 16ga is incredibly adequate, and nothing to worry about, like, ever.


Screw that, #12AWG FTW MOAR POWER

Lol. Sorry, I had to! The electrician in me needed that laugh!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> How to make molex to sata power cables? Will 4 16 awg wires really provide enough juice?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> I think once you start worrying about the current carrying ability of 16ga wire, what you should really be worried about is the connector.


This is true of MiniFit Jr, where the pins are rated for less amps than what 18 AWG wire can carry. But not the old Molex series 8981 connectors. The pins and housing are designed for up to 14 AWG.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I just know it will be a nightmare sorting out what I can and can't do with making custom power cables...


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> How to make molex to sata power cables? Will 4 16 awg wires really provide enough juice?
> 
> 
> 
> I think once you start worrying about the current carrying ability of 16ga wire, what you should really be worried about is the connector.
> 
> if you're doing this for harddrives, and not something weird, 16ga is incredibly adequate, and nothing to worry about, like, ever.
Click to expand...

Was he commenting about the 16AWG or the lack of the 5th (3.3V) wire?


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Was he commenting about the 16AWG or the lack of the 5th (3.3V) wire?


Thanks for getting that. Yeah, I'm not concerned with 16awg. I'm concerned with having only 4 wires going into sata vs the usual 5.


----------



## kpoeticg

NP. Wish i had an answer for you though lol

I've also wondered about the 3.3v wire in sata power cables. I'm not aware of HD's that make use of a 3.3v signal. I always thought laptop hd's used 5v while desktop hd's used the 5v + 12v.

Obviously if it's Sata => Molex it makes perfect sense because the molex would have no use for the 3.3v.

I assume it's fine to use molex => sata, but then again i'd wait for some1 smarter to comment since i don't even really know the purpose of the 5th wire...


----------



## stickg1

A lot of retail box HDDs come with a MOLEX to SATA adapter. I'm sure I have some around the house. I'll post a pic of the pinout after work.


----------



## kpoeticg

I have a few of them. It just takes the 4 Molex Pins (12v/G/G/5v) & sends them to 4 pins on the sata connector.

A sata connector coming out of a psu has 5 wires (3.3v/G/5V/G/12V)


----------



## stickg1

Yeah but what in thinking is it the HDD manufacturer sends those out with their product then it must be "good enough". I don't think they would distribute them if they were bad for the hard drive.


----------



## lowfat

As far as I know the only SATA drives that actually require the 3.3V line are 1.8" drives.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Thanks for getting that. Yeah, I'm not concerned with 16awg. I'm concerned with having only 4 wires going into sata vs the usual 5.


Oh right. I don't know any current drives that need the orange wire, but if you let us know exactly which drives you have, then we could google the specs








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> As far as I know the only SATA drives that actually require the 3.3V line are 1.8" drives.


Can you even get 1.8" mechanical drives anymore? Sure there are SSDs of that form factor, but they are all 5V.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah but what in thinking is it the HDD manufacturer sends those out with their product then it must be "good enough". I don't think they would distribute them if they were bad for the hard drive.


Yeah my bad, i missed your point with that one









Kinda just skipped over the whole part about them coming in the retail packaging. I have like 5 or 6 of them. I've never bought one, and i've never had one come in a HD Retail Package. No clue how i have so many lying around LOL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> As far as I know the only SATA drives that actually require the 3.3V line are 1.8" drives.


Interesting. I guess that solves the mystery then =)

I didn't know that any HD's actually used the 3.3v. Seems like the only thing the 5th wire might be useful for would be LED Modding or something similar. Good to know the reason it's there tho. Thanx


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Those are rather stealthy, looks like you could use 3 or 4 more.


I am rather happy w/ one. Anymore is IMO overdoing it.


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Oh right. I don't know any current drives that need the orange wire, but if you let us know exactly which drives you have, then we could google the specs


Samsung Evo and/or WD Blue 2.5inch. From what I gather they shouldn't have a problem without the 3.3v, right?


----------



## kpoeticg

Pretty sure both of those drives only need 5V + Ground.


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Pretty sure both of those drives only need 5V + Ground.


So i'm good to go if I make this?:


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Samsung Evo and/or WD Blue 2.5inch. From what I gather they shouldn't have a problem without the 3.3v, right?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Pretty sure both of those drives only need 5V + Ground.


Yep









http://www.samsung.com/uk/consumer/memory-cards-hdd-odd/ssd/840-evo/MZ-7TE1T0BW-spec
http://www.wdc.com/wdproducts/library/SpecSheet/ENG/2879-771437.pdf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> So i'm good to go if I make this?:


Could even leave out the yellow wire.


----------



## grazz1984

Hiya guys is there anyone on here in the UK that would sleeve my corsair gs800?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amatthie*
> 
> Will these cable combs fit on the LC Custom 16 awg wire w/ mdpc sleeve??


Yes they will. it is sometimes a tight fit but it will work.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Appreciate you reaching out. Yea I can only imagine how busy you guys are, keep it up you're doing a great job. It's just one comb so don't worry about it, really not the worth the hassle of trying to get another one shipped out.


one comb or not we will make sure to do right by our customers. send me a msg and I will take care of it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Damn this thread, just did another big order from Lutro0 for $34 worth of the new stealth cable combs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , black combs on black para, going for that fully stealthed look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I should really start getting to work on my cables... my last order was for 150 terminal pin thingys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit, does it matter if you use 16awg wire instead of 18awg for PSU cables?


18awg is more then enough is most places. I have done test cables for some companies in 18awg and never a problem. the reason I push 16awg is the ability to train them. I honestly did not thing that these combs would make so much of a splash but it humbles me a ton to see you all posting pics of them. It makes me glad I could offer a product that people can use and want.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I should stop taking pics, and finish my 24 pin.


Thanks so much for your orders!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> A pic w/ the comb in place.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-7-2.jpg.html


Lowfat thanks a ton for your order buddy!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984*
> 
> Hiya guys is there anyone on here in the UK that would sleeve my corsair gs800?


there is maybe a few but LC does world wide shipping and can help you out.


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> there is maybe a few but LC does world wide shipping and can help you out.


have you a link to LC please


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984*
> 
> have you a link to LC please


http://lutro0-customs.com/


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> http://lutro0-customs.com/


Thanks devil!


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Thanks devil!


No prob, it was handy cause I just ordered a bunch of cable combs from ya. I made a horrible mistake ordering a 24 pin sleeved cable and a LED light strip from modDiy.com, I do have the matching PCI-E cables but I have waited 6 weeks and they still aren't here. The sleeving is pretty good on the ones I have but it's not A1 top notch. I won't make that mistake twice.


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> http://lutro0-customs.com/


Thanks buddy


----------



## Iniura

Hey can anybody tell me how I would get this straight 3 pin connectors of the cables? is there a way to do it without breaking it so I can re attach them?


----------



## Devildog83

Finally after more than 6 weeks my cable and lights showed up. I am too tired today to tear the whole PC down and I have some better cable combs coming from Lutro so I just half assed it until then. But here are a few pics of what I have. The White LED strip will go under the edge of the motherboard but until tomorrow I just layed it down in the bottom. I will show th old 24 pin first. Once I have all of this figured out I will start on the watercooling loop. The whole thing will be torn apart tomorrow and done properly and again when the nice combs get here.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> Hey can anybody tell me how I would get this straight 3 pin connectors of the cables? is there a way to do it without breaking it so I can re attach them?


The pins push out. Use a pair of pliers and gently push the pins through the bottom of the connector.


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The pins push out. Use a pair of pliers and gently push the pins through the bottom of the connector.


I see already managed to do it thanks lowfat for your quick reply


----------



## dna-systems

My 1st attempt doing a full system sleeve. Still a ways to go, but going steady.


----------



## Zooty Cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dna-systems*
> 
> My 1st attempt doing a full system sleeve. Still a ways to go, but going steady.


Is that pre-cut heat shrink or did you cut that yourself? Your sleeving looks good but the heat shrink looks a little long. Even with that said they are even....nice job.


----------



## dna-systems

They were pre-cut, but, I agree with you though...I feel like I could have gone with half the size (maybe like 8 or 10mm length) now that I've seen them on. I like it when they only come out of connector just a couple of mm. I might just re-do the red shrink with 6mm black. I think the red shrink is a little too pinkish, now that it's on. Thanks for the input though.


----------



## Rooah

My first ever sleeving job. I ended up having to sort of half-ass it as some of the pins absolutely refused to come out and I was in danger of breaking the wire if I tried to apply any more force so there is a black and gray wire on the 20+4 pin mocking me D: but it was my first attempt so I'm not too down about it. On a side note some of the pins which were very stubborn had a single tab holding them in place, and it appears that they were designed that way as there is no evidence of them having simply broken.


----------



## dangerdan87

My first time sleeving. Decided the heat-sink-less method was much better looking.

CPU 8 pin unsleeved top, CPU 8 pin sleeved bottom.

Colors are MDPC black and Color X.
http://s.photobucket.com/user/ermey/media/8A9FF7C3-AB87-4CBF-AB9B-A5B4A0A614C9_zpsr6jj0qrm.jpg.html

I also have some Shade 19 that I will be using on the 24 pin.

I'll be sleeving my entire PSU. No extensions here.


----------



## dna-systems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dangerdan87*
> 
> My first time sleeving. Decided the heat-sink-less method was much better looking.
> 
> CPU 8 pin unsleeved top, CPU 8 pin sleeved bottom.
> 
> Colors are MDPC black and Color X.
> http://s.photobucket.com/user/ermey/media/8A9FF7C3-AB87-4CBF-AB9B-A5B4A0A614C9_zpsr6jj0qrm.jpg.html
> 
> I also have some Shade 19 that I will be using on the 24 pin.
> 
> I'll be sleeving my entire PSU. No extensions here.


Very nice without the heatshrink...think that just made my mind up for a redo of my 1st go at it.


----------



## abirli

vanilla sands mmm

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/Mobile Uploads/2014-02/IMG_4122_zpsbaef7c52.jpg.html


----------



## outlaw8505

Until I had it myself. I was never a fan of the single sleeved cables. I always thought they looked messy. Looking through this thread and seeing the awesome jobs. It's changed my mind. It hasn't changed the fact it sucks to do. lol

First time sleever. I've done the 8pin CPU (below), 6pin GPU and currently working on the SATA power.


----------



## Zooty Cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dna-systems*
> 
> They were pre-cut, but, I agree with you though...I feel like I could have gone with half the size (maybe like 8 or 10mm length) now that I've seen them on. I like it when they only come out of connector just a couple of mm. I might just re-do the red shrink with 6mm black. I think the red shrink is a little too pinkish, now that it's on. Thanks for the input though.


A lot will depend on the quality of the heat shrink. High quality shrink will shrink more but generally speaking 15 mm should work.


----------



## dna-systems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zooty Cat*
> 
> A lot will depend on the quality of the heat shrink. High quality shrink will shrink more but generally speaking 15 mm should work.




Decided to do some trimming and see how it looks. I like it much better short, but still debating on whether to just go shrinkless or change it to black heat-shrink. Also, what do you think about para-cord? Have you ever used it? I like the look of it and am considering doing a swap over to it. Thanks again for your input.

Just got word that my copper tube arrived today. I will be adding an XSPC water-block and HeatKiller backplate to the 780Ti, as well as a radiator and fan swap too. I'm ditching my XSPC 280 and Spectre Pro PWM's for EK and Corsair SP120's.


----------



## dangerdan87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dna-systems*
> 
> 
> 
> Decided to do some trimming and see how it looks. I like it much better short, but still debating on whether to just go shrinkless or change it to black heat-shrink. Also, what do you think about para-cord? Have you ever used it? I like the look of it and am considering doing a swap over to it. Thanks again for your input.
> 
> Just got word that my copper tube arrived today. I will be adding an XSPC water-block and HeatKiller backplate to the 780Ti, as well as a radiator and fan swap too. I'm ditching my XSPC 280 and Spectre Pro PWM's for EK and Corsair SP120's.


I found using heat shrink took too long to get just right. I don't want to spend all day on a few cables.
My 8 pin CPU heat shrink less took me about 15 minutes with a few mess ups (cut the sleeve a tad too short).

I've been stitching the cables so they won't be nappy looking.


----------



## PCModderMike

Little bit of sleeving on my D5.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Little bit of sleeving on my D5.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/CENTER
> 
> 
> ]


Nice


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Little bit of sleeving on my D5.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/CENTER
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice
Click to expand...

Thanks


----------



## dna-systems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Little bit of sleeving on my D5.


Very nicely done.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Little bit of sleeving on my D5.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What kinda sleeve is that? looks awesome


----------



## dna-systems

Sleeving is nearly complete...other than a 24pin and 2 PSU cables. Had to put it on hold to do leak test with new copper & rads. I will resume trimming down the shrink on the rest of them at a later date...my hands are tired and my son is mad at me.....


----------



## llamaegg

Does anyone know where to find connector's for the PSU end of a Corsair 1200ax? I was originally contemplating making extensions (any maybe I still will depending on the options open to me), but with my recently acquired Caselabs S8 it can already be tough to hide some of that excessive Cabling.


----------



## kpoeticg

I don't have a 1200i so don't know exactly what it has, but FCPU has a decent selection of Corsair/Seasonic Connectors.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g51/c621/list/p1/Connectors-Corsair_Seasonic_Cooler_Master_PSU_Connectors.html?id=2L7WJn3I&mv_pc=76708

Moddiy.com usually has connector kits for all PSU's, just shipping takes a little bit cuz it's Asia.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dna-systems*
> 
> Very nicely done.


Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Little bit of sleeving on my D5.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What kinda sleeve is that? looks awesome
Click to expand...

Thanks. It's 550 paracord.


----------



## Tigerboy

gonna take another whack at this, i have all the paracord i havent been able to get pins out at all though. ive been reading through this and will try some of the tricks with staples and see how that goes. id really like to get rid of those ugly rainbow wires.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tigerboy*
> 
> gonna take another whack at this, i have all the paracord i havent been able to get pins out at all though. ive been reading through this and will try some of the tricks with staples and see how that goes. id really like to get rid of those ugly rainbow wires.


This tool is a *must* when sleeving paracord. It will make it a lot easier. http://lutro0-customs.com/products/paracord-tool-threader


----------



## Tigerboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> This tool is a *must* when sleeving paracord. It will make it a lot easier. http://lutro0-customs.com/products/paracord-tool-threader


Thanks







i have something similiar i found in my toolbox that should work alright.
the pins are whats killing me, i bought a pin tool before i read all those reviews about not buying ebay ones(whoops) so i tool my dremel and grinded it down, and it works great on an old HP PSU but it doesnt work at all on a corsair cx600m or my antec EA750, the EA750 is the one i want to do, but i took out some old psus to practice on.

the road ahead is looking like cobblestone in a lowrider.


----------



## llamaegg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I don't have a 1200i so don't know exactly what it has, but FCPU has a decent selection of Corsair/Seasonic Connectors.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g51/c621/list/p1/Connectors-Corsair_Seasonic_Cooler_Master_PSU_Connectors.html?id=2L7WJn3I&mv_pc=76708
> 
> Moddiy.com usually has connector kits for all PSU's, just shipping takes a little bit cuz it's Asia.


Freaking awesome, thanks!


----------



## stickg1

My seasonic was snug. I do one side of the pin at a time and then try to pull it out. Used to be I had to wedge a trim nail I filed down into one side and twist it to pretty much crush the connector to get enough room to slide my pin removed down both sides at the same time. Then I have to put another trim nail I filed into a tiny rectangle into the connector and use a needle nose to shape the connector back properly. THAT was time consuming. This is until I woke up and realized I could just do one side at time.

EDIT: I do have to extract the pin by going down each side but it helps if I start one side at a time and then both at the same time.***

I redid one of my 4-pins today in anticipation for a new component that would require using another cable.


----------



## morencyam

Nice work Stick







I'm contemplating redoing all my sleeving to go heatshrink-less

I gave cable sewing/stitching a try again today on my 8-pin extension. Only did one stitch to see if I could actually do it since last attempt using FrankNSteinPC's method was an utter failure. I think it turned out pretty good. I didn't have any thread laying around so I used fishing line. Once I get into full production mode I will use either black or orange thread. I also had it upside down so the knot is visible, but that will be fixed when I do the final product.


----------



## Devildog83

Lutro0,

I am almost done but I need my combs,


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Lutro0,
> 
> I am almost done but I need my combs,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -snip-


Very nice!


----------



## Valgaur

My first plug is done now that I finally found time. First time sleeving let me know how I did!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> My first plug is done now that I finally found time. First time sleeving let me know how I did!


Valgur, it looks good, however when using heatshrink you will want to make sure that the sleeve is all in the same spot when you shrink it down. I made a tool called the LC Sleeving tool that will help you space it out perfectly, it is really hard to get it perfect without the tool. It can be found on my shop @ lutro0customs.com

Otherwise its looing good bud.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Valgur, it looks good, however when using heatshrink you will want to make sure that the sleeve is all in the same spot when you shrink it down. I made a tool called the LC Sleeving tool that will help you space it out perfectly, it is really hard to get it perfect without the tool. It can be found on my shop @ lutro0customs.com
> 
> Otherwise its looing good bud.


I Knew I forgot something


----------



## stickg1

Looks good Val, that's the hardest part about heatshrink sleeving, all the heatshrink has to be the same length and in the same spot.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Looks good Val, that's the hardest part about heatshrink sleeving, all the heatshrink has to be the same length and in the same spot.


This. I sleeved my cables a few years ago and it was the first time doing it. Now that I have everything torn apart and rebuilding I'm noticing how sloppy it looks in some spots. I really want to just resleeve the entire PSU. But I either have to order from MDPC-x or wait for Lutro0 to release Orange Teleios


----------



## iamkraine

I don't know why people bother with heatshrink when shrinkless looks so much cleaner and lutro0 teleios is so easy to work with.


----------



## stickg1

That's the reason I did my PSU in mutual colors (black and gray) so I can reuse it on my next couple builds without having to resleeve the sucker.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> I don't know why people bother with heatshrink when shrinkless looks so much cleaner and lutro0 teleios is so easy to work with.


When I sleeved my PSU the first go around, heatshrink-less really wan't that common. Now that I'm thinking about resleeving everything, I'm seriously considering heatshrink-less.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That's the reason I did my PSU in mutual colors (black and gray) so I can reuse it on my next couple builds without having to resleeve the sucker.


It's not so much a color issue that I'm having. It just looks sloppy. It was my first time sleeving and it definitely shows. The heatshrink is all uneven and the sleeve isn't pushed all the way into the heatshrink on some. I was also trying to save money at the time and didn't sleeve the entire length of the cables, only about the first 18" or so. Which, again, just looks sloppy.


----------



## Gunderman456

I'm thinking of sleeving the cables.

I need some help to determine if I purchased enough sleeving/heatshrink material and if the sizes are correct for my PSU (EVGA G2 1300W) - main rig in sig.




Thanks.


----------



## morencyam

Well, if it helps at all, I just did the math the sleeve just my 24-pin on the Corsair AX850 and I need about 50ft of sleeve just for that. 24 wire at about 2ft per wire, which is 48ft total


----------



## Gunderman456

What diameter size was that?


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Well, if it helps at all, I just did the math the sleeve just my 24-pin on the Corsair AX850 and I need about 50ft of sleeve just for that. 24 wire at about 2ft per wire, which is 48ft total


Make sure you account for error and get extra of everything, especially pins if you are cimping yourself.


----------



## Gunderman456

Thinking about it, I now intend to only sleeve the main 24 pin mobo power cable. You won't see the other mobo power cable and the GPU cables are already nicely sleeved.

So I figure 50ft but what size sleeve and heatshrink- 12mm (1/2")?


----------



## lowfat

If you are individually sleeving the wires you only want ~4mm sleeving. You'll need probably at least 100 feet for a 1 videocard system.


----------



## stickg1

I wouldn't use heatshrink unless you need to cover a splice or something off that nature. You have to repin the connector while the heatshrink is still hot and in my opinion it's more difficult than heatshrinkless and doesn't look as good.


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If you are individually sleeving the wires you only want ~4mm sleeving. You'll need probably at least 100 feet for a 1 videocard system.


I only intend now to sleeve the 24 pin cable. So you recommend a 100ft of 4mm sleeves?

@ stickg1, yes I did notice that you and others do not use heatshrink. Good to know that you don't need them for the sleeves to stay on.


----------



## morencyam

60 feet of 4mm sleeve should be enough and leave some extra in case of mess ups. And if you want to use heatshrink, 3/16" with a 3:1 shrink ratio is what I've always used.

And with the heatshrink-less method, you still need heatshrink to make the initial hold.


----------



## Gunderman456

Thanks, now I can proceed with confidence. I'm going to try to sleeve without heatshrink so that link will be good.

I think I'll go with the Kobra sleeves.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> I don't know why people bother with heatshrink when shrinkless looks so much cleaner and lutro0 teleios is so easy to work with.


Actually I think im gonna try that with my current plug and see how i like it


----------



## Gunderman456

I've felt that the 24 pin mobo power cable (refer to The Hawaiian Heat Wave Build Log in sig) was severely lacking. Although it is sleeved, one single sleeve for the unit, the sleeve does not reach the power connector and the wires are exposed at that junction.

I will not bother with the GPUs and the other 6/8 pin mobo power cable. I figured the GPU sleeves are good and cover the length of the cables and the 6/8 pin mobo power cable is invisible behind the top rad.

So in the spirit of moar pezazz, I purchased LutroO Customs Teleios 4mm Red 100 Foot Sleeving from FrozenCPU for $27.00, 3:1 Darkside Adhesive 4.8mm 3/16" Heatshrink Jet Black 6 Foot Tubing from DazMode for $3.30 and the Original Molex ATX Pins Extraction Tool from DazMode for $19.94.

I intend to do the sleeving using the shrinkless method.


----------



## Valgaur

whats the best way to do shrinkless?


----------



## Big Elf

View the *Video Sleeving Guides*, Part 9 for PET sleeve and Part 11 for paracord.


----------



## ZephyrBit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> whats the best way to do shrinkless?


Without heatshrink.


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> whats the best way to do shrinkless?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> whats the best way to do shrinkless?


I'm partial to this method.









http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/case-mods-worklog-gallery/54759-sleeving-discussion-gallery-thread.html#post634722


----------



## stickg1

Not a bad method low, I typically just tap the sleeve with a lighter and compact it with my fingertips but that looks much more precise and clean. Plus the method I use can make the sleeving potentially loose if you mess with too much.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Not a bad method low, I typically just tap the sleeve with a lighter and compact it with my fingertips but that looks much more precise and clean. Plus the method I use can make the sleeving potentially loose if you mess with too much.


I do the same method with para, can also burn the crap out of your fingers if your not careful


----------



## stickg1

Yeah I work in a kitchen a couple nights a week so my fingertips are usually calloused because I'm clumsy, lol. Oh nice SM5! I just got mine up and running a week or two ago. Such a nice case.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah I work in a kitchen a couple nights a week so my fingertips are usually calloused because I'm clumsy, lol. Oh nice SM5! I just got mine up and running a week or two ago. Such a nice case.


Hahaha I burn my fingers while sleeving coz I'm clumsy









Thanks, I still got a heap of work to do on the cables tho







. It is a damn nice case and well worth the money I spent on it


----------



## lowfat

I don't believe I have ever burned my fingers.









Honestly you find a method that works and you get enough practice you can generally sleeve w/o any real injuries. I use to have a problem w/ my hands cramping up when trying to hold the sleeving tight to get a nice weave. But moving my fingers around while holding the sleeve works wonders.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> I'm thinking of sleeving the cables.
> 
> I need some help to determine if I purchased enough sleeving/heatshrink material and if the sizes are correct for my PSU (EVGA G2 1300W) - main rig in sig.
> 
> Thanks.


I spent 300 feet of paracord on that PSU and still have two unsleeved sata cables + an unsleeved molex cable. In honesty, I did spend some 30 or so feet on other stuffs, and there was maybe two or three feet of total unusable waste, but if you intend to sleeve the PSU completely, aim for more than 300 feet of wire.


----------



## Devildog83

Lutro0 is da bomb. His shipping person set my order to a wrong address and he sent me a new order right away along with a T-Shirt and on top of that refunded my money because it's has taken so long for me to get my combs. Anyway they came today and I have done the PCI-E cables which I am posting pics of and the 24 pin I will do tomorrow on account of my neck is killing me.







.

These combs look awesome, way better then the open ones.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## stickg1

That looks sweet man. I too have had a great experience with lutro0s customer service.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Looks awesome







good job


----------



## Devildog83

Thanks.

I have a cheapo pin remover and I am not sure it will make it through the 24 pin cable.


----------



## dna-systems

I am diggin the combs... very nice job. Gonna have to order some of those.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Lutro0 is da bomb. His shipping person set my order to a wrong address and he sent me a new order right away along with a T-Shirt and on top of that refunded my money because it's has taken so long for me to get my combs. Anyway they came today and I have done the PCI-E cables which I am posting pics of and the 24 pin I will do tomorrow on account of my neck is killing me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> These combs look awesome, way better then the open ones.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good. I know what you mean about Lutro0's great customer service. I had a large order that was delayed 3 weeks before they shipped it out because of the crimper being back ordered. They sent me all the items except for the crimper since it's still on back order, plus some extra sleeving to make up for it. They also refunded me the money for the crimper and will still ship me one once they get them in. The sleeving looks amazing, I can't wait to get started.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> I've felt that the 24 pin mobo power cable (refer to The Hawaiian Heat Wave Build Log in sig) was severely lacking. Although it is sleeved, one single sleeve for the unit, the sleeve does not reach the power connector and the wires are exposed at that junction.
> 
> I will not bother with the GPUs and the other 6/8 pin mobo power cable. I figured the GPU sleeves are good and cover the length of the cables and the 6/8 pin mobo power cable is invisible behind the top rad.
> 
> So in the spirit of moar pezazz, I purchased LutroO Customs Teleios 4mm Red 100 Foot Sleeving from FrozenCPU for $27.00, 3:1 Darkside Adhesive 4.8mm 3/16" Heatshrink Jet Black 6 Foot Tubing from DazMode for $3.30 and the Original Molex ATX Pins Extraction Tool from DazMode for $19.94.
> 
> I intend to do the sleeving using the shrinkless method.


If your going to do the shrinkless method, DO NOT get a shrink that has adhesive in it!!! It's a bugger to remove it then!!


----------



## Gunderman456

Now you tell me.









That is all DazMode had for 3:1 4.6mm.

I'm hoping that removing right away while still warm will not give the adhesive a chance to bond. Otherwise, I will not continue and just turn to FrozenCPU instead.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> Now you tell me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is all DazMode had for 3:1 4.6mm.
> 
> I'm hoping that removing right away while still warm will not give the adhesive a chance to bond. Otherwise, I will not continue and just turn to FrozenCPU instead.


Sorry, I didn't get a chance to read this thread yesterday, lol. Even if it doesn't set immediately, it will probably leave some glue on the sleeve. You can obviously try it. But if you can skip that stuff and get the non-adhesive kind, I would.


----------



## lowfat

You never want to use adhesive heatshrink in computers. It looks like crap. The glue leaks out and is highly visible.


----------



## morencyam

The heatshrink used on stock cable for my Corsair AX850 looked like it was adhesive heatshrink. It was a little harder to remove than normal heatshrink. And like lowfat said, glue had seeped out onto the sleeve.


----------



## stickg1

Same with my Seasonic, bundle sleeved with adhesive shrink.


----------



## Devildog83

My poor little pin removal tool - at least I am done now.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Do you guys have any idea how hard it is to cram 27 cables in a 24 pin cable comb?


----------



## Himo5

That is impressive. I'd love to see the backplane.

It looks like, having got the cables going in the same direction we now need combs that produce a right angled bend - according to the Minimum Bend Radius of the cable.

BTW. for pin removal you can't beat an evil old nail.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> That is impressive. I'd love to see the backplane.
> 
> It looks like, having got the cables going in the same direction we now need combs that produce a right angled bend - according to the Minimum Bend Radius of the cable.
> 
> BTW. for pin removal you can't beat an evil old nail.


That's a neat pin remover! Excuce my ignorance but what do you mean by backplane?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> That's a neat pin remover! Excuce my ignorance but what do you mean by backplane?


I assume be means the backside of the motherboard tray.


----------



## Devildog83

Ok, I was thinking that but didn't want to look even dumber by posting a pic when he meant something else.

It's not great here yet as I have more lights to come and don't want to snug it all up with more wires to put away. I hate those crappy ribbon cables if it wasn't all hidden I would have to sleeve everything.


----------



## Himo5

Thanks for the backplane image, which shows just how impressive a result you were actually achieving.

I use a stock of Casecom KM cases, which have virtually the same chassis as the NZXT Lexa S, and which have a backplane thickness - between the back of the Motherboard and the side panel - of just 9mm, so the way cable management exploits the backplane is pretty important.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> That's it. I use a stock of Casecom KM cases, which have virtually the same chassis as the NZXT Lexa S, and which have a backplane thickness - between the back of the Motherboard and the side panel - of just 9mm, so the way cable management exploits the backplane is pretty important.


I have a good amount of room behind the mobo tray the C70 but just looking at it from the front watercooling is going to clutter up the front a lot unless I just use a bay res/pump combo and just a CPU block. That's why I am waiting to move to the 750D or 760T to do the loop.


----------



## iBored

Hi guys, I have a question. Do I have to solder the wires on this connector? or is the another way?
Then, can I sleeve over the bottom part of the connector?


----------



## lowfat

Yes you need to solder them.


----------



## WiSK

I saw a video of a cool way to solder those connectors recently. Will try to dig it up later.


----------



## lowfat

I just steal the already soldered ones from the fan extensions that come w/ fans.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Yes you need to solder them.


You can also crimp these on the wires and then push them on to the bottom pins on that connector


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> You can also crimp these on the wires and then push them on to the bottom pins on that connector


I never even considered that. Do you have a pic of how it looks after it has been sleeved?


----------



## WiSK

That's an interesting idea. I suppose you could then solder the pins for strength.


----------



## Gunderman456

It was difficult to find 4.7mm 3:1 adhesive free heatshrink.

DazMode only had them in adhesive form and FrozenCPU only had 4mm or 5mm 2:1 heatshrink. Anything to do with 3:1 heatshrink was either smaller then 4mm or 6mm+. I also looked at Aquatuning and Performance-PCs but the shipping would have been murder.

Why did I search high and low for new heatshrink? Well this thread warned that shrinkless sleeving would be more difficult if the heatshrink incorporated an adhesive substance.

Taking heed, last night I purchased 3/16th Inch (4.7mm) 3:1 Ratio Heatshrink 4ft for $4.50, the LC Cable Comb Codename: Stealth - 24Pin Cable Clamp Stealth Black (x2) for $4.20 and the LC Flush Cutter for $10 from LutroO Customs Sleeving and Computer Solutions. I though to myself, why not buy from the source?

I've also purchased a package containing 5 Bic lighters (x2 size) for $4.99 from Target.


----------



## Lutro0

!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Hahaha I burn my fingers while sleeving coz I'm clumsy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, I still got a heap of work to do on the cables tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It is a damn nice case and well worth the money I spent on it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I don't believe I have ever burned my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly you find a method that works and you get enough practice you can generally sleeve w/o any real injuries. I use to have a problem w/ my hands cramping up when trying to hold the sleeving tight to get a nice weave. But moving my fingers around while holding the sleeve works wonders.


Fingertips? What are those.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Lutro0 is da bomb. His shipping person set my order to a wrong address and he sent me a new order right away along with a T-Shirt and on top of that refunded my money because it's has taken so long for me to get my combs. Anyway they came today and I have done the PCI-E cables which I am posting pics of and the 24 pin I will do tomorrow on account of my neck is killing me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> These combs look awesome, way better then the open ones.
> 
> [/SPOILER]


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That looks sweet man. I too have had a great experience with lutro0s customer service.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Looks good. I know what you mean about Lutro0's great customer service. I had a large order that was delayed 3 weeks before they shipped it out because of the crimper being back ordered. They sent me all the items except for the crimper since it's still on back order, plus some extra sleeving to make up for it. They also refunded me the money for the crimper and will still ship me one once they get them in. The sleeving looks amazing, I can't wait to get started.


Thanks for the compliments guys. We are at the point were we need to hire another shipper because we are getting slammed some times. But thanks for letting us make it right when its wrong.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You never want to use adhesive heatshrink in computers. It looks like crap. The glue leaks out and is highly visible.


I second this!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> It was difficult to find 4.7mm 3:1 adhesive free heatshrink.
> 
> DazMode only had them in adhesive form and FrozenCPU only had 4mm or 5mm 2:1 heatshrink. Anything to do with 3:1 heatshrink was either smaller then 4mm or 6mm+. I also looked at Aquatuning and Performance-PCs but the shipping would have been murder.
> 
> Why did I search high and low for new heatshrink? Well this thread warned that shrinkless sleeving would be more difficult if the heatshrink incorporated an adhesive substance.
> 
> Taking heed, last night I purchased 3/16th Inch (4.7mm) 3:1 Ratio Heatshrink 4ft for $4.50, the LC Cable Comb Codename: Stealth - 24Pin Cable Clamp Stealth Black (x2) for $4.20 and the LC Flush Cutter for $10 from LutroO Customs Sleeving and Computer Solutions. I though to myself, why not buy from the source?
> 
> I've also purchased a package containing 5 Bic lighters (x2 size) for $4.99 from Target.


You will love that heatshink for shrinkless, I have used the same for a long time now and never have any issues.


----------



## iBored

I noticed some of my leftover heatshrink from mdpc had some white powder on it. Not sure what it is though, but it melts really fast. Even before the sleeve melts when doing heatshrinkless sleeving. Stained some of my white mdpc sleeves. =(


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Fingertips? What are those.


Those things we no longer have?


----------



## morencyam

Did some cable sewing over the weekend. I did the 24-pin and both GPU cables and they came out really nice. I used two lengths of thread instead of one to give the stitch a little more strength. Looks like I won't be needing to order the Lutro0 combs now that I found a real simple sewing/stitching method.

I also redid the heatshrink on all the cables making them shorter and more evenly lengthed. It looks so much better now. Should have taken a before and after picture. Sorry for the low quality pic. The cell camera has been acting up giving everything a purple-ish tint.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> I noticed some of my leftover heatshrink from mdpc *had some white powder on it.* Not sure what it is though, but it melts really fast. Even before the sleeve melts when doing heatshrinkless sleeving. Stained some of my white mdpc sleeves. =(


Yeah that's my bad, we were partying pretty hard that night...


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Those things we no longer have?


Pretty much! haha


----------



## Devildog83

Well with the added fan grill and lights that's pretty much it. Thanks lutro0 for the cable combs.


----------



## Inelastic

Crimper came in and now it's time to get to work. Here's the colors I plan on using.


And here's my first attempt.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Learnt the fun way you gotta be careful when crimping ATX pins coz this little tab thing



Is damn easy to crush, gotta redo 5 pins


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Well with the added fan grill and lights that's pretty much it. Thanks lutro0 for the cable combs.


No prob thanks for the order!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Crimper came in and now it's time to get to work. Here's the colors I plan on using.
> 
> And here's my first attempt.


I look forward to the rest of your work, keep it up!


----------



## rootwyrm

Well, my thread searching has come up empty, so I'll just ask.

I've got a RAID5 array that's going on a single line. Individually sleeved paracord throughout. So you already see the problem. Well, I absolutely cannot use crimp SATA power for the RAID array, it has to be push-in style due to clearances, number of drives (5), and controller behavior. Is there any sort of heatshrink-less method written up or documented anywhere? What I'm hoping to do is this:

(End) PSU - Shrink - Sleeve - Shrink - P0 - Sleeve - P1 - Sleeve - P2 - Sleeve - P3 - Sleeve - Shrink - P4 (End)


----------



## Big Elf

Closest answer is in 'How To Sleeve Sata Pass-Through or Crimp Style Power Connectors'? of the *FAQs*


----------



## rootwyrm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Closest answer is in 'How To Sleeve Sata Pass-Through or Crimp Style Power Connectors'? of the *FAQs*


Ah-ha, searching the wrong thread would throw me off the result I'm looking for indeed!

So here's the setup proper, which is obviously, pretty dang ugly.

WP_20140326_003.jpg 158k .jpg file


WP_20140326_004.jpg 147k .jpg file


Sorry for potato. Anyhow, I have to loop over the clips as shown. Which puts a fair bit of strain on the cable because it's a VERY tight fit - yes, that is an NZXT H630. Worse still, I have newer style pass-through from Lutro (slide-on endcap type) whereas the 1A method? Relies on an entirely different SATA pass-through connector. 1A is closest to what I'm looking for because of the spacing, including the appearance that the sleeve is anchored within the clip. But that requires the tight-fit clips, which I can't find for love or money. Anyone tried to do 1A with the slide-ons and had success, or should I just throw in the towel and heat-shrink it? Bearing in mind I'm using 18ga, not the 16ga.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Did some cable sewing over the weekend. I did the 24-pin and both GPU cables and they came out really nice. I used two lengths of thread instead of one to give the stitch a little more strength. Looks like I won't be needing to order the Lutro0 combs now that I found a real simple sewing/stitching method.
> 
> I also redid the heatshrink on all the cables making them shorter and more evenly lengthed. It looks so much better now. Should have taken a before and after picture. Sorry for the low quality pic. The cell camera has been acting up giving everything a purple-ish tint.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice to see the bug is spreading. Really digging the colour combo too.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> Nice to see the bug is spreading. Really digging the colour combo too.


Thanks. I first sleeved them that color about 3 years ago and have kept them the save every build since. I always wanted to sew my cables and my first attempt was a disaster. But I recently found an easier method and gave it another shot. I'm really happy with how they turned out


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

6 pin PCI cable made out of Lutro0s custom 16awg wire











It's not gonna blow up my rig if I stick in it will it?


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Thanks. I first sleeved them that color about 3 years ago and have kept them the save every build since. I always wanted to sew my cables and my first attempt was a disaster. But I recently found an easier method and gave it another shot. I'm really happy with how they turned out


Yeah, it took me a while to get to a technique that both gets the job done and
is not too difficult to do. The methods I saw previously had been rather tricky,
so I tried to find something simpler that still got the desired aesthetical result.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> Yeah, it took me a while to get to a technique that both gets the job done and
> is not too difficult to do. The methods I saw previously had been rather tricky,
> so I tried to find something simpler that still got the desired aesthetical result.


Actually, it was your tutorial I used. Didn't make the connection until I clicked the link in your sig. Great tutorial, BTW.


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Actually, it was your tutorial I used. Didn't make the connection until I clicked the link in your sig. Great tutorial, BTW.


Haha, yeah I remembered seeing your pic in my thread too, just thought I'd
give a quick compliment here as well.









And thanks, much appreciated!


----------



## lowfat

Backside
http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT026.jpg.html

Frontside


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I don't believe I have ever burned my fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly you find a method that works and you get enough practice you can generally sleeve w/o any real injuries. I use to have a problem w/ my hands cramping up when trying to hold the sleeving tight to get a nice weave. But moving my fingers around while holding the sleeve works wonders.


Yea I was using a hot glue gun one time and it dripped on my leg and was burning it. Without thinking and reacting to the pain I then brushed it off with my hand. And that's how I burnt my fingers.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Backside
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT026.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> Frontside
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks damn nice









Question for all ya'll, is it safe to use 16AWG wire for every PSU cable?


----------



## alpenwasser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Backside
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/foreveraloneserverFT026.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Frontside
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice and tidy, and i like the sleeving colours too.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> That looks damn nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Question for all ya'll, is it safe to use 16AWG wire for every PSU cable?


In all honesty I have not come across anything thicker yet, in fact most non-high end PSUs I've seen
were using thinner wire (18 AWG), at least for some stuff. 16 AWG is what I've seen used predominantly
in higher-end builds (including mine), haven't heard of or had any problems with it.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpenwasser*
> 
> In all honesty I have not come across anything thicker yet, in fact most non-high end PSUs I've seen
> were using thinner wire (18 AWG), at least for some stuff. 16 AWG is what I've seen used predominantly
> in higher-end builds (including mine), haven't heard of or had any problems with it.


Ah cool, I've just seen people say 16 is bad, fries everything etc and then others say 16 is better then 18 coz it can handle more power to you can get a better/more stable OC etc

I was just curious coz I got some of Lutro0s 16 and its so much easier to work with then my stock cables, once the stock ones are sleeved its a pita to get them back in


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Ah cool, I've just seen people say 16 is bad, fries everything etc and then others say 16 is better then 18 coz it can handle more power to you can get a better/more stable OC etc
> 
> I was just curious coz I got some of Lutro0s 16 and its so much easier to work with then my stock cables, once the stock ones are sleeved its a pita to get them back in


If it's sold by @Lutro0 it's not something you will need to question, it's quality functionality will be guaranteed, just saying.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> If it's sold by @Lutro0 it's not something you will need to question, it's quality functionality will be guaranteed, just saying.


Yeah I know, always still a little bit worried that something could go wrong









I dont feel like being electrocuted again


----------



## Inelastic

A work in progress.


----------



## Zooty Cat

Pics from my CaseLabs rebuild


----------



## rootwyrm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> If it's sold by @Lutro0 it's not something you will need to question, it's quality functionality will be guaranteed, just saying.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Yeah I know, always still a little bit worried that something could go wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont feel like being electrocuted again


Nah, you'll be fine. You just have to be aware of the limits of 16ga vs 18ga vs 24ga and so on. It has to do with cable dielectric strength vs. distance; basically if you use too thin a gauge based on the current carried or the RIGHT gauge for the current carried but not the length, you'll have problems.

I use 18 and even 20 gauge all the time, depending on the length and application. About the only place where you've got much concern is PCIe, long EPS and long 24 pin connectors. Pretty much anything else in there you can use 18ga with zero ill effects.
(Not my first wiring rodeo; just first time doing individual wire sleeving.)


----------



## Neo Zuko

All these rules has me scared... I'll be reading the thread in its entirety and posting lots of questions to be sure.


----------



## Midnite8

How many feet of sleeving do I need if I want to do the 24-pin and two sets of PCI-E cables?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Midnite8*
> 
> How many feet of sleeving do I need if I want to do the 24-pin and two sets of PCI-E cables?


Don't know the exact measurement of your cables, but mine were 24", so, 24"x24 wires is 48 feet, and 24x8x2 is 32 feet, so a minimum 80 feet, I would get a 100 foot spool of the sleeve to take into account for mistakes etc.


----------



## RickPlaysWarr

HI

100 feet is a definite minimum. I would order extra as I am really picky about the end result

--Rick--


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Don't know the exact measurement of your cables, but mine were 24", so, 24"x24 wires is 48 feet, and 24x8x2 is 32 feet, so a minimum 80 feet, I would get a 100 foot spool of the sleeve to take into account for mistakes etc.


This. Plus that'll leave you some extra for fans and other misc cables


----------



## Midnite8

Great, thanks guys!


----------



## Himo5

Also take into account that some sleeving has to stretch to accomodate the wire you are using and will have to be longer.

I was using a very tight fitting sleeve/wire combination recently where 39ft of wire needed 45ft3in of sleeve so, reducing to inches, I was using the formula, sleeve_length = wire_length * 543 / 468.


----------



## rootwyrm

Quote:


> Quote:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Also take into account that some sleeving has to stretch to accomodate the wire you are using and will have to be longer.
> 
> I was using a very tight fitting sleeve/wire combination recently where 39ft of wire needed 45ft3in of sleeve so, reducing to inches, I was using the formula, sleeve_length = wire_length * 543 / 468.


Also note the opposite is true. Paracord stretches two directions - width and length.

So for example, my 26" long (connector end to connector end) wires use *exactly* 25" of paracord each. At rest, it's too short. But stretched to be tight against the wire (I prefer a thinner look) it is exactly correct. Bear in mind that getting it stretched this way is time consuming and pretty hard on your hands.


Also note that apparently, Techflex's 3:1 is not so thin and will not work in ATX connectors.


----------



## SonicGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rootwyrm*
> 
> is time consuming and pretty hard on your hands.


Soo true lol.


----------



## rootwyrm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SonicGamer*
> 
> Soo true lol.


... holy crap. I meant hard like 'taxes the crap out of your muscles' because you have to be really careful with positioning AND hold it very hard while shrinking, and right up against the heat shrink. Plus you will have to stretch it both directions multiple times to get it to sit right. I didn't mean "rips your fingers to literal shreds."

The fingertip shredder is the PET and popping apart DuPont connectors. Somebody should invent a pin extractor for those things already.


----------



## Himo5

I think I now need to have it explained to me why holding wire and sleeve at precisely the right point with a pair of pliers while applying heat is not a good idea.


----------



## Midnite8

I have trouble getting the right length each time when sleeving a wire. IE: I measured the first sleeving to be 65mm and it was perfect after sleeving the wire. Next wire, I measure 65mm and sleeve it, ends up being 5-10mm short!!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Midnite8*
> 
> I have trouble getting the right length each time when sleeving a wire. IE: I measured the first sleeving to be 65mm and it was perfect after sleeving the wire. Next wire, I measure 65mm and sleeve it, ends up being 5-10mm short!!


When measuring you need to stretch the sleeve and get a feel for doing that with the same tension each time. This is just a matter of practice before you can get each sleeve consistent.


----------



## Senate707

Sleeved my 6 and 8 pin PCIe cables today. First time sleeving, I will probably do the next set next weekend and the 24 pin the weekend after that. Definitely got the technique down after the first cable was done, thanks to Lutro0 for the supply's and video tutorials.

After messing with those inline capacitors trying to sleeve them and heatshrink them I just decided to leave them and let them be displayed prominently







I'll post an update when its all done.


----------



## lowfat

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-15.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-16.jpg.html


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Did i even post my last sleeve job here?

I likes it a bit scruffy.


----------



## abirli

sleeved a ax760 for a customer.

really bad psu to sleeve. the 24 pin is really bad. crossed wires, and 4 double wires. GPU and CPU are crossed as well but can be easily cleaned up

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/IMG_4394_zps92ebfd96.jpg.html

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/IMG_4395_zps44058b3b.jpg.html


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-15.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-16.jpg.html


@lowfat who makes that green sleeving and what color is it called? I've been trying to find that kind of OD Greenish color for a while!

Thanks for posting pics of it!!


----------



## iamkraine

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> Thinking about it, I now intend to only sleeve the main 24 pin mobo power cable. You won't see the other mobo power cable and the GPU cables are already nicely sleeved.
> 
> So I figure 50ft but what size sleeve and heatshrink- 12mm (1/2")?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SonicGamer*
> 
> Soo true lol.






Subtitle: DEDICATION


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> @lowfat who makes that green sleeving and what color is it called? I've been trying to find that kind of OD Greenish color for a while!
> 
> Thanks for posting pics of it!!


It would be MDPC-X ranger green. This combo may be one of my favourite ones that I have done.


----------



## amatthie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> sleeved a ax760 for a customer.
> 
> really bad psu to sleeve. the 24 pin is really bad. crossed wires, and 4 double wires. GPU and CPU are crossed as well but can be easily cleaned up
> 
> *snip*
> *snip*


Why don't people detangle ATX 24 pins cables that have crossed wires? Just make sure that the start and end wires are the same voltage? (5v > 5v, 12v > 12v, -12v > -12v, sensors, etc etc)


----------



## SonicGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rootwyrm*
> 
> ... holy crap. I meant hard like 'taxes the crap out of your muscles' because you have to be really careful with positioning AND hold it very hard while shrinking, and right up against the heat shrink. Plus you will have to stretch it both directions multiple times to get it to sit right. I didn't mean "rips your fingers to literal shreds."
> 
> The fingertip shredder is the PET and popping apart DuPont connectors. Somebody should invent a pin extractor for those things already.


Haha yea that was from a terminal slipping which cut me. Didn't really give it enough time to heal so it kinda half calloused over and subsequent sleeving wore the skin off. Not nearly as bad as it looked though. The muscle cramps were worse but that can be solved by just being mindful and not using the same grip.

Normal sleeving wont likely cause that picture.


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amatthie*
> 
> Why don't people detangle ATX 24 pins cables that have crossed wires? Just make sure that the start and end wires are the same voltage? (5v > 5v, 12v > 12v, -12v > -12v, sensors, etc etc)


They will still cross. It can be cleaned up a little bit but still not optimal.


----------



## lowfat

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-17.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-18.jpg.html


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> They will still cross. It can be cleaned up a little bit but still not optimal.


Yep. I posted this picture before, but here's my 24-pin. The left side goes to one connector and the right side to another, but the wire still cross. It isn't random though, there is some logic to it as you can see by the pattern at the other end. Basically they are flipped, the inside goes to the outside although it's probably different for every psu.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-17.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-18.jpg.html


Just curious, but you could have rotated that little SFX Silverstone psu 180-degrees, wouldn't that have solved the rotation behind the tray?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Just curious, but you could have rotated that little SFX Silverstone psu 180-degrees, wouldn't that have solved the rotation behind the tray?


That rotation on the back of the tray looks like its the cables themselves, most PSU cables tend to criss cross over one another


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> That rotation on the back of the tray looks like its the cables themselves, most PSU cables tend to criss cross over one another


Some do, yes. But I own that psu, and they don't.







that's the only reason I mentioned it. There is only one split cable on them from silverstone, it's 24 pin on the psu side and 23 on the board side.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Some do, yes. But I own that psu, and they don't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's the only reason I mentioned it. There is only one split cable on them from silverstone, it's 24 pin on the psu side and 23 on the board side.


All the silverstone striders have crisscrossing due to the fact that they are one-one pinouts, the 'front' and 'back' layers of cables switch places from one end to the other, if you look at the stock ribbon cables you will see that just before one end of the cable all of the cables switch sides of the connector

Also I have been trying my hand at some cable lacing







No idea how I am going to fit all of this sleeving into my case, I have already used over 60m of wire


----------



## morencyam

Nice work on the stitching Gardner








Looks like you may need to redo the one closest to the connector in the bottom photo, but the rest look good. It'll get easier and easier with each stitch you do. The first on on my 24-pin took me almost ten minutes. By the time I was done stitch the 24-pin I was down to about 5 minutes.

Okay, now I need your guys' opinion. I really want to resleeve my PSU. The first time I sleeved them I only sleeved the first foot that would be seen near the motherboard. It was a real sloppy job. Now I want to redo them so the entire length of the wires are sleeved.

My problem is the color. I have an orange and black theme and am currently using MDPC-x sleeve but would rather not order from them again due to price. None the other orange sleeve currently available from Kobra, Techflex, Bitspower, etc, match the color or quality of MDPC. And Lutro0 doesn't have Orange Teleios available yet. I've tried PMing him and emailing through the site asking if he has any idea when it would be available but have gotten no response.

So I'm considering going with Paracord this time around. Who here has worked with both PET style sleeving and paracord and what are your opinions on both? I generally prefer the look of PET sleeve but really don't have anything against paracord, I've just never used it.

Also, is it possible to do heatshrink-less for paracord?


----------



## Big Elf

Yes, you can do heatshrinkless with paracord and you don't need to use sacrificial heatshrink when you do it.

The main thing that is different is that the weave of paracord varies from batch to batch and colour to colour so you'll probably find it stretches different amounts rather than consistently like MDPC-X sleeve does. Also the underlying colour of the wire doesn't show through unless it's really cheap quality stuff.


----------



## morencyam

I was most likely going to go with Lutro0's coreless cord. Either that or just but a 100' roll cheap on eBay or something. I actually found some 100' bundles on Amazon for about $9 shipped. It has the inner strands though, so I would have to pull those out. I'm actually somewhat leaning towards cord that still has the inner strands to use them to pull the wires through.

Do you have a personal preference paracord or MDPC?


----------



## Big Elf

I prefer PET sleeving as I think it looks better and is a bit easier to work with although I do appreciate the wider colour range available with paracord (at the moment). After saying that paracord can be a very cheap method of getting great results.

Using the inner strands to pull the wire through won't help unless you wrap the pin in masking tape. Much better to use a *paracord sleeving tool* as it save loads of time.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Just curious, but you could have rotated that little SFX Silverstone psu 180-degrees, wouldn't that have solved the rotation behind the tray?


Yes. But I would have had to do a lot more work on the cable management. But this way the cable has tension against itself from the curve. It holds the cable in place. Plus I honestly do like the gradual clean curve.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Some do, yes. But I own that psu, and they don't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's the only reason I mentioned it. There is only one split cable on them from silverstone, it's 24 pin on the psu side and 23 on the board side.


Mine has 23-wires only. I cut the other one off, like all my Silverstone PSUs. :

Every wire crosses over one other wire immediately next to it, which provides the straightest 24-pin possible. Jimhans1 is right where the cable would be much straighter if I inverted the PSU. However where every cable crosses the next one will be visible. It would look like a sloppy mess w/o tension.


----------



## morencyam

Yeah, I have one of those tools sitting in the Lutro0 shopping cart. Looks just like a small piece of brass pipe. I might have some of that laying around at work I could use. I think I'll order the Amazon cord first since it's so cheap, then if I'm having a hard time because of the inner core threads I'll re-order the coreless from Lutro0. Thanks for your input Elf


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Nice work on the stitching Gardner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like you may need to redo the one closest to the connector in the bottom photo, but the rest look good. It'll get easier and easier with each stitch you do. The first on on my 24-pin took me almost ten minutes. By the time I was done stitch the 24-pin I was down to about 5 minutes.
> 
> Okay, now I need your guys' opinion. I really want to resleeve my PSU. The first time I sleeved them I only sleeved the first foot that would be seen near the motherboard. It was a real sloppy job. Now I want to redo them so the entire length of the wires are sleeved.
> 
> My problem is the color. I have an orange and black theme and am currently using MDPC-x sleeve but would rather not order from them again due to price. None the other orange sleeve currently available from Kobra, Techflex, Bitspower, etc, match the color or quality of MDPC. And Lutro0 doesn't have Orange Teleios available yet. I've tried PMing him and emailing through the site asking if he has any idea when it would be available but have gotten no response.
> 
> So I'm considering going with Paracord this time around. Who here has worked with both PET style sleeving and paracord and what are your opinions on both? I generally prefer the look of PET sleeve but really don't have anything against paracord, I've just never used it.
> 
> Also, is it possible to do heatshrink-less for paracord?


Yeh that was a single knot and it slipped undone because of the radius of that bend at the end of the cable. I find its actually really quick. I just did the dual 8pin cables for my GPU (laced them both as one cable) so 16pins and it took maybe 3mins max for each stitch.

As for working with paracord I have done it in the past and it is much nice IMO for actually sleeving as it is so much faster but the end result is no where near as nice as what you get with PET, the cables are just floppy as there is no tension in the paracord and it doesnt stretch as nicely or as lowfat said as uniformly as PET, personally I would never go back to it, since I have started using Teleios I don't think I could use anything else now.


----------



## morencyam

Thanks for the info Gardner. I will be stitching the cables after being sleeved so that would help keep them in place I think. Since it's so cheap, I'll probably by some paracord and if I don't like it then wait for the Orange Teleios to be released, which, according to the PM response I got from Lutro0 about an hour ago, should be released in about a month or so.


----------



## Senate707

Finished the second PCIe cable today.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

more cable stitching


----------



## morencyam

Very nice Gardner. What kind of thread is that you are using. It almost looks like it has a wax coating on it. Really digging that color scheme too


----------



## stickg1

Yeah that's sweet!


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Very nice Gardner. What kind of thread is that you are using. It almost looks like it has a wax coating on it. Really digging that color scheme too


it does indeed, it is 1mm cotton wax cord:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170898644018?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


----------



## rootwyrm

Argh, okay, I give up. The 3M doesn't fit either.

Somebody PLEASE tell me what 3:1 heatshrink I can get in *white* that will actually freaking fit. Because I am really, really tired of redoing the same wire only to find it still doesn't work. And I've run through every 3:1 and 2:1 non-adhesive I can find that doesn't have to be ordered by the 100ft+ spool.

And yeah, it really does have to be white.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rootwyrm*
> 
> Argh, okay, I give up. The 3M doesn't fit either.
> 
> Somebody PLEASE tell me what 3:1 heatshrink I can get in *white* that will actually freaking fit. Because I am really, really tired of redoing the same wire only to find it still doesn't work. And I've run through every 3:1 and 2:1 non-adhesive I can find that doesn't have to be ordered by the 100ft+ spool.
> 
> And yeah, it really does have to be white.


MDPC-X small and SATA size 4:1 heatshrink is probably the best white you'll find. I've also used Mod/Smart 3:1 white heatshrink and it's pretty good as well.

Have you considered heatshrinkless sleeving?

Are you doing something unusual or is it just basic sleeving with heatshrink?


----------



## abirli

does any one know the name of these connectors and pins? this is for and led power. http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/ledpower_zps75cb1732.jpg.html

think its the same ones on the gpu leds


----------



## rootwyrm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> MDPC-X small and SATA size 4:1 heatshrink is probably the best white you'll find. I've also used Mod/Smart 3:1 white heatshrink and it's pretty good as well.


Absolutely not happening - would cost twice as much in shipping as the product for MDPC-X. Nearly $20 for 0.75m - and I need a LOT more than that. Nope. Sucks, but that's the truth of it. Mod/Smart I can't find in non-"perfect cut" which is exactly the wrong length.
Quote:


> Have you considered heatshrinkless sleeving?
> 
> Are you doing something unusual or is it just basic sleeving with heatshrink?


Nope, heatshrinkless is not happening. Does not work right aesthetically. Tried it, took one look, went "blech." Look up 'urban camo' paracord. Imagine with black connectors, on black PCBs, in a white chassis. Yeah, it's awful.
It's just the easy to find stuff not fitting in the connectors. It's too wide at the strain relief. I was told Techflex 3:1 while not thin-wall would be fine, but alas, it's just too thick. (And it ain't my crimps. Did the same on a machine crimp.) I found a source for Sumitomo Sumitube B2(3X), but I can't find actual specifications on the known-to-work stuff. Like, actual real specifications as opposed to 'blah blah marketspeak.'

Looks like what I need to know is the nominal wall thickness after recovery - Sumitube B2(3X) is 0.7mm/0.28in walls after recovery for the 6/2mm But Techflex doesn't disclose, MDPC-X doesn't disclose and Mod/Smart doesn't disclose. So I can't compare. Techflex looks like it's about 1mm but I can't tell for sure.


----------



## rootwyrm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> does any one know the name of these connectors and pins? this is for and led power. http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/ledpower_zps75cb1732.jpg.html
> 
> think its the same ones on the gpu leds


As a matter of fact, I do. Those look to be JST-XH connectors. The barrel is just a barrel connector. You can order XH connectors direct from JST, provided you don't mind getting a lot of them for very little money. (You'll need the crimp tool anyway.) I think Mouser might have them, but don't hold me to that.
I want to say they're XHP-2's, but take measurements. JST definitely makes an identical part though.


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rootwyrm*
> 
> As a matter of fact, I do. Those look to be JST-XH connectors. The barrel is just a barrel connector. You can order XH connectors direct from JST, provided you don't mind getting a lot of them for very little money. (You'll need the crimp tool anyway.) I think Mouser might have them, but don't hold me to that.
> I want to say they're XHP-2's, but take measurements. JST definitely makes an identical part though.


thank you!

ill have to investigate, think i may be better off making my own with standard dupont headers and crimps


----------



## charliebrown

ok so im doing my 6+2 and i pull a little to hared and the wire came out and the pin is stuck inside any have any idea how to get it out

at this point im bout to buy some wire and pins plus a crimper and do it myself i hate trying to take those atx pins out


----------



## dna-systems

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> ok so im doing my 6+2 and i pull a little to hared and the wire came out and the pin is stuck inside any have any idea how to get it out
> 
> at this point im bout to buy some wire and pins plus a crimper and do it myself i hate trying to take those atx pins out






I had that happen to me and I just grabbed a T10 star bit (just barely fit in the hole), flipped it upside down and gave a few taps... I then raped one of my xtra PCIE cables for a good wire.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> ok so im doing my 6+2 and i pull a little to hared and the wire came out and the pin is stuck inside any have any idea how to get it out
> 
> at this point im bout to buy some wire and pins plus a crimper and do it myself i hate trying to take those atx pins out


Lutro0 Customs also sells a stuck pin remover that works wonders, but if you look for the parts locally you can just make one as well


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> does any one know the name of these connectors and pins? this is for and led power.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: picture
> 
> 
> 
> http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/ledpower_zps75cb1732.jpg.html
> 
> 
> think its the same ones on the gpu leds


My first thought was cathode connectors, but then I read GPU and I found these for ya: http://www.moddiy.com/products/Graphics-Card-VGA-Socket-Mini-Female-PH-Connector-%282.0mm%29.html http://www.moddiy.com/products/Graphics-Card-VGA-Socket-Mini-Male-Housing-PH-Connector-%282.0mm%29.html


----------



## kpoeticg

Looks like cathode connectors to me, could be gpu fan connectors tho


----------



## rootwyrm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Looks like cathode connectors to me, could be gpu fan connectors tho


Nope, those are JST-XH's. I can spot 'em at ten feet. Cathode connectors have a larger box due to the high voltages involved. When I say "JST-XH" I'm referring to the type/style, not a specific use case. I know 'em because they're often used in RC stuff as well - they're just a general purpose low voltage friction locking connector.
GPU fans are usually latch type rather than friction type, since vibrations can work friction lock connectors loose over time. Mind, I've seen plenty of manufacturers cheap out there to try and improve margins when they get squeezed.

I also though they might be PH, but they are not. Note that the locking assembly is on the female end and comprised of two stubs. The PH series is a locking tab on the outer edge of the body with the female end's ridges used for centering the connector.

Here's some links so you can see the difference more clearly:
XH - http://www.phoenix-rc.com/images/products/CellPro-JST-XH-2s.jpg
PH - http://mfc200804.ocnk.net/data/mfc200804/product/20120818_6dcd50.JPG


----------



## S1lv3rflame

How much sleeving does a 1200i psu need for all cables? (In meters please







)


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> How much sleeving does a 1200i psu need for all cables? (In meters please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Please read the OP, it tells you how to figure it out.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S1lv3rflame*
> 
> How much sleeving does a 1200i psu need for all cables? (In meters please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Measure the length of each cable then multiply that by the number of wires. If your 1200i is the same as my AX850, the 24-pin is 600mm, which is about 15m just for the 24-pin. Then just do the same math for 8-pin and GPU cables. Look up your PSU on Jonny Guru, he puts the lengths of all the cables in his reviews


----------



## S1lv3rflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Measure the length of each cable then multiply that by the number of wires. If your 1200i is the same as my AX850, the 24-pin is 600mm, which is about 15m just for the 24-pin. Then just do the same math for 8-pin and GPU cables. Look up your PSU on Jonny Guru, he puts the lengths of all the cables in his reviews


I calculated based on the spec sheet from Corsair, and found out the cables are 72,80m Long. So 100m should do it for fans and cables aye?


----------



## MillerLite1314

I'm looking to redo my psu since I'm adding carbon fiber to my pic's interior and my last sleeve job is kind of all over the place and this is what I've come up with for the 24-pin and two PCI connectors. Gonna use Lutro0 stealth combs and the PCI's will be bundled together with a 12-pin comb and then split to either gpu since my 660's only use one PCI power plug each.

I will be using all Lutro0 paracord again and redoing my connectors in black since they are factory white.


----------



## abirli

actually they might be the vga pins
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rootwyrm*
> 
> Nope, those are JST-XH's. I can spot 'em at ten feet. Cathode connectors have a larger box due to the high voltages involved. When I say "JST-XH" I'm referring to the type/style, not a specific use case. I know 'em because they're often used in RC stuff as well - they're just a general purpose low voltage friction locking connector.
> GPU fans are usually latch type rather than friction type, since vibrations can work friction lock connectors loose over time. Mind, I've seen plenty of manufacturers cheap out there to try and improve margins when they get squeezed.
> 
> I also though they might be PH, but they are not. Note that the locking assembly is on the female end and comprised of two stubs. The PH series is a locking tab on the outer edge of the body with the female end's ridges used for centering the connector.
> 
> Here's some links so you can see the difference more clearly:
> XH - http://www.phoenix-rc.com/images/products/CellPro-JST-XH-2s.jpg
> PH - http://mfc200804.ocnk.net/data/mfc200804/product/20120818_6dcd50.JPG


alright i'm getting closer! i think you're right about the JSTs, thats what i came across first. i cant tell the difference between the vga ones tho.

i found this which i think is what i'm looking for. now just got to find domestic sources for the jst-ph2 connector and pins


----------



## abirli

ok found this for everyone like me who was wondering

part number for the 2 pin JST connectors are

S2B-PH-K-S = male housing connector

PHR-2 = 2 pin female connector

SPH-002T-P0.5S = crimp

thanks


----------



## ProfeZZor X

It's about time I get started with this part of my build. With zero experience in cable sleeving, I hope it comes out okay.

...I just wish there was a guide in doing rigid copper wiring.


----------



## lowfat

I don't see a reason to use solid copper wire. That would take a whole lot of time IMO to get all the wires perfect. More so than PET sleeved stranded wire IMO.


----------



## stickg1

I have used solid wire before. It's a total pain to work with, I was just using it for LED light strips because my electrician gave me doorbell wire to mess around with. I think it was 18ga solid and insulated. If you get a kink in a spot you weren't intending it can be harder to smooth out than stranded wire.


----------



## Lutro0

aha, I myself have a reel of solid copper wire that I want to try to introduce into the xylo mod. Still figuring out how to impliment it. Its not so much of a it cant be done. But can it be done cleanly. I refuse to do anything halfa**ed.







But on the same subject you can crimp it and it does hold.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> aha, I myself have a reel of solid copper wire that I want to try to introduce into the xylo mod. Still figuring out how to impliment it. Its not so much of a it cant be done. But can it be done cleanly. I refuse to do anything halfa**ed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But on the same subject you can crimp it and it does hold.


In the years that I've been here, I've seen hundreds of creative cable sleeving projects. But for some reason, rigid copper wiring looks neater and more uniformed than conventional cables. Not only that, but it requires a whole new level of attention to detail and craftsmanship to achieve the clean look you're seeking. I've seen two builds with copper wiring so far, but neither went into detail on how it was achieved. I wish there was a step by step guide available, similar to this thread.


----------



## Teplous

does anyone know when Frozen CPU will get the clear stealth cable combs in stock again?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> does anyone know when Frozen CPU will get the clear stealth cable combs in stock again?


Send an email here and ask, that would be the best answer you can get.
[email protected]


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> does anyone know when Frozen CPU will get the clear stealth cable combs in stock again?


We are sending a new shipment out to them this weekend! In the mean time they are up on our site as well. You would not beleive how hard it is to keep those in stock! I am very glad everyone likes them!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> In the years that I've been here, I've seen hundreds of creative cable sleeving projects. But for some reason, rigid copper wiring looks neater and more uniformed than conventional cables. Not only that, but it requires a whole new level of attention to detail and craftsmanship to achieve the clean look you're seeking. I've seen two builds with copper wiring so far, but neither went into detail on how it was achieved. I wish there was a step by step guide available, similar to this thread.


I have messed with a few methods that work great the only downside is the bare wires are a bit unsafe so I have not released a video on it yet for fear of people shocking themselves, but a small disclaimer should be fine.

The method is not too much different then you would shape hardline tubing just dont need to heat it.


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> We are sending a new shipment out to them this weekend! In the mean time they are up on our site as well. You would not beleive how hard it is to keep those in stock! I am very glad everyone likes them!


awesome thanks so much, would it be possible to get the dimensions you used for those combs?, i'm building a case and the psu will be located outside of it, i'd like the case to act as a cable comb as well.


----------



## Mystriss

I'm planning to do rigid wires with Tinned Copper (it's silver) I'm doing heat shrink (including clear) to prevent electrical issues.

Ah I found one of my sample tests, with black heat shrink:


----------



## dna-systems

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I'm planning to do rigid wires with Tinned Copper (it's silver) I'm doing heat shrink (including clear) to prevent electrical issues.
> 
> Ah I found one of my sample tests, with black heat shrink:






That is going to be interesting. I have tinkered with the idea of doing sleeved-rigid wiring in my future build. I like the idea of very precise cable routing layout. I will be anxious to see how it goes and good luck. Please post when you get it started.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dna-systems*
> 
> 
> That is going to be interesting. I have tinkered with the idea of doing sleeved-rigid wiring in my future build. I like the idea of very precise cable routing layout. I will be anxious to see how it goes and good luck. Please post when you get it started.


The questions I would have would be how you going to put the wires and connectors together.


----------



## dna-systems

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> The questions I would have would be how you going to put the wires and connectors together.





Shouldn't be that hard, given that the same gauge wire is used. Would just be using solid core instead of braided core. Sleeve should still (in theory) slide over top. Obviously they would have to be fully self made wires, as far as buying the ATX pins, heatshrink, sleeve, etc. and cutting to custom lengths. I think it would be tedious, but doable.


----------



## Mystriss

For the connections I'm going to solder connector pins to the ends of the wire before I heat shrink everything, that way I can get all exposed wire into the connector.

I've got two water loops to design and install so it's going to likely be at least a couple/few months before I get to rigid wiring on my build (I have to have everything else exactly where I want it before I can finalize the wire profiles and such,) but I'll try to remember to put the process on here as well as in my build log.


----------



## PCModderMike

Slowly but surely, coming along.
I need to order some more cable combs though.

__
https://flic.kr/p/13770950513

Also got some fans done.

__
https://flic.kr/p/13771311194


----------



## socketus




----------



## PCModderMike

Thanks, I think. If I'm taking that reaction the right way.


----------



## ds84

Are there any youtube videos for cable sewing? Not sure if that is the correct term.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Are there any youtube videos for cable sewing? Not sure if that is the correct term.


FrankNSteinPC does a little series on it


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> FrankNSteinPC does a little series on it


Just saw that... but his video aint hard.. hard to see part 3.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Are there any youtube videos for cable sewing? Not sure if that is the correct term.


I found the FrankNSteinPC method to be a little complicated. I found an easier method I used and an very happy with the results


----------



## Chomuco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Are there any youtube videos for cable sewing? Not sure if that is the correct term.


----------



## Brian18741

Hey guys,

I'm about to but a new modular PUS. I want to make all custom cables for it. I'm looking at an XFX 1050w. Is there anything in particular I should know about this PSU? I was also looking at a Coolermaster v1000 or EVGA Supernova G2 1000w but the V1000 is out of stock everywhere and the EVGA is a bit too long for my liking.

Am I correct in assuming as a fully modular PSU I can just replace the stock cables with my own? What sort of connector goes into the PSU? Is it the same as the one that plugs into you mobo or gpu?

I've been watching loads of videos so I'm confident in most of the tools and techniques required, just not sure on all the connectors and terminals!


----------



## Big Elf

The main negative about the XFX is the extremely poor European Support. If you ever need to RMA you might have some difficulty getting them to honour it (I don't believe they actually understand the concept of what honour means).

SeaSonic manufacture XFX PSUs but tend to be quite a bit more expensive than the equivalent model they sell.

Often Connectors for the PSU end are the same as those that are at the component end with some exceptions. *E22* sells the vast majority and is based in the UK but the shipping charges are pretty outrageous. Specialtech and C&C also stock many connectors. Some Corsair connectors may be more difficult to get hold of.


----------



## morencyam

Some PSUs use the same style of connectors as the ones that are used on the motherboard and GPUs. But sometimes they are not 1:1 pinouts. For example, on my Corsair AX850, the 24-pin is broken down into something like an 18-pin and a 10-pin because there are some double wires.

Some PSU use different style connectors though so you may have to make the custom wires first and install them in the stock connectors after removing the stock length wires.


----------



## Brian18741

Thanks guys. Ideally I would like to just use completely new cables and just set aside the stock cables so if I ever need to RMA the PSU I won't have any trouble with the cables.

Looking at the connectors on the E22 site, it looks like I want a PSU the connects with female connectors on the PSU end, is this correct? Then, presumably, I would need female terminal pins.

What do I google to find out if the modular cable connects to the PSU end with a standard female connector?

I want to make life as easy as possible for myself also so would like to avoid messing around with doubles wires etc.

Finally, pin outs. I'm not 100% on this either. Does it matter what cable goes where as long as bot ends of the wire going into the same spot on both connectors?


----------



## Mystriss

I basically copied my stock cables the first time I made my own, one cable at a time to make sure I got them in all the right holes and such. I've also put little flags on each end of the wire to make sure I got them in the correct spots. They are NOT always 1 to 1, aka pin 1 of say your PCI-E connector goes to pin 1 on your PSU, sometimes pin 1 goes to pin 2, sometimes you'll even have only four wires (molex) going to a 6pin connector on the PSU.

For matching the connectors, it's best to have your PSU in hand so you can closely examine the connectors on your PSU side. Sometimes the PSU connectors are custom made for that particular PSU and you'll HAVE to reuse the ones that come with your PSU. Other time's it's just matching standard kind of things; my SilverStone modular for example uses a 6pin VGA cable for some of it's connectors, but it's like VGA v1 instead of the v2 that most GPU's use for power these days (I might have the version numbers backward as I bought a ton of extras a long time ago)


----------



## lowfat

What is a V1 and a V2 6pin connector?

As far as I know all modern Silverstone PSUs use standard connectors w/ 1:1 cables. The cables might come w/ cables crossed but you can easily uncross them to make them 1:1. If you can get Silverstone PSUs I would suggest them. Sleeving a PSU w/ no Y cables and standard connectors makes things very easy.


----------



## kpoeticg

If you take an 8Pin VGA connector and use the first 6 pin ports from the left, that's V2. If you u use the first 6 from the right, that's V1. It's hard to find V1 connectors in good colors


----------



## lowfat

Well then Silverstone Striders definitely use V2.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah i'm pretty sure most PSU's and GPU's use V2, that's why V1 connectors aren't really available in alot of colors. FCPU only has orange and green i think.

IMO, it's not really important which connectors your PSU comes with anyway. Especially for people like you and most other people that follow this thread lol. The only difference is the square/upside-down-U pattern of the connector. It's not like the pins are different. The header on your GPU is what's important


----------



## Mystriss

Alright I looked it up. My SilverStone Strider 1200w uses v1's, I had to spend an hour taking a Sharpie to the neon orange and green ones I got from FrozenCPU







My GPU uses the v2 though for sure.

Had no idea that was the 6 part of a 6+2 connector though, good tip! Maybe I'll switch them out at some point.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

What is the standard female and male terminal pin size for a video card? I bought 100ft of some copper wiring yesterday from Fry's to try and attempt to do a rigid setup. I haven't actually gotten started yet, because I need to know the correct size of the female pin to connect to the graphic card, and the correct size of the male pin to connect to the PSU... Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## lowfat

All power supply crimps are the same size. They are Molex mini fit jr. Male and female.


----------



## volegradele

New card,new sleeve!!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> What is the standard female and male terminal pin size for a video card? I bought 100ft of some copper wiring yesterday from Fry's to try and attempt to do a rigid setup. I haven't actually gotten started yet, because I need to know the correct size of the female pin to connect to the graphic card, and the correct size of the male pin to connect to the PSU... Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> All power supply crimps are the same size. They are Molex mini fit jr. Male and female.


There are three sizes of MiniFit Jr pin. The diameter of the inner wings is (I believe) either 0.8mm, 1.0mm or 1.2mm. The one most people use for crimping is part number 39-00-0038, it's the middle sized one, intended for 18 AWG.


----------



## kpoeticg

There's 16AWG, 16-18AWG, and 22-28AWG. I know because i bought em all last time i ordered from Digikey


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> There are three sizes of MiniFit Jr pin. The diameter of the inner wings is (I believe) either 0.8mm, 1.0mm or 1.2mm. The one most people use for crimping is part number 39-00-0038, it's the middle sized one, intended for 18 AWG.


Are they all the same style of crimp? Just different sizes?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Are they all the same style of crimp? Just different sizes?


Yeah same pin just different size bit for the wires as kp says.

With single strand copper I would solder rather than crimp, and clip off the excess.


----------



## Inelastic

Here's some pictures of my cables installed. The gpu cables are a bit too loose to train properly and the psu cable should be reworked because it's about 2 inches too long and the connectors to the psu should be flipped, but I don't want to redo them. I wore myself out, lol. But, I really do like the colors. They work well.






To contrast, here's what it looked like before.


----------



## buzzbuzzbuzz

I started my first sleeving project yesterday. So far I've gotten 5 fans, front panel header cables, both internal USBs, HSF, and 4 pins on the 24 pin connector done. My hands are a little sore and the pads of my fingers are worn smooth. And to think all I have left is the rest of the 24 pin connector, the 8pin ATX connector, all the rest of the modular cables, and the 4 pin molex power, 3 fan leads, and 3 temp sensors for my fan controller... I may actually be done by the 4th of July!


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Here's some pictures of my cables installed. The gpu cables are a bit too loose to train properly and the psu cable should be reworked because it's about 2 inches too long and the connectors to the psu should be flipped, but I don't want to redo them. I wore myself out, lol. But, I really do like the colors. They work well.


That looks great!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> There are three sizes of MiniFit Jr pin. The diameter of the inner wings is (I believe) either 0.8mm, 1.0mm or 1.2mm. The one most people use for crimping is part number 39-00-0038, it's the middle sized one, intended for 18 AWG.


That's great news because I ended up buying 100ft of 18AWG wiring just eyeballing it on the shelf. I compared the copper wire thickness to the gaming computers on display at Fry's. I just didn't get as far as buying the pins because I wasn't sure, and the geniuses in the computer department couldn't understand what I was trying to accomplish. So, I'll definitely know what to get the next time I visit there - which will probably be tomorrow...

+1 rep


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Hey Everyone,

Been a while since I posted in this thread. Still trying to figure what I need to do to complete my 3rd custom build. I've got to place an order as I need sleeving to finish my psu and some miscellaneous stuff. But I'm having a difficult time deciding which sleeving size I should use to individually sleeving each wire on my two pci-e cables as well as the 8-pin and 4x4-pin cables from my psu. I was thinking either 1/8 or 1/4 sleeving would be best. I'll be purchasing Techflex PET sleeving which is what I used when I started sleeving. I was thinking 1/8 as each strand is a smaller diameter than the 1/4 sleeve is. But I'm uncertain if it'll cover the wires so they don't show through when the sleeving is pulled tight and shrink tubed. What are your thoughts?

Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Here's some pictures of my cables installed. The gpu cables are a bit too loose to train properly and the psu cable should be reworked because it's about 2 inches too long and the connectors to the psu should be flipped, but I don't want to redo them. I wore myself out, lol. But, I really do like the colors. They work well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To contrast, here's what it looked like before.


Great work.


----------



## Pimphare

Looks great! @Inelastic Nice turn around. Now I must stop drooling all over everybody else's work and get mine in order!


----------



## vilius572

Anyone want to trade gtx 660 1.5gb for sleeved cables for ax860?


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> That looks great!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Great work.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Looks great! @Inelastic Nice turn around. Now I must stop drooling all over everybody else's work and get mine in order!


Thanks


----------



## Teplous

is there a site that i can plug in colors to experiment with different patterns for sleeving my 24 pin?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> is there a site that i can plug in colors to experiment with different patterns for sleeving my 24 pin?


HERE I play around with this all the time. Sometimes when actually planning something, other times just to mess around lol


----------



## Teplous

oh wow, thank you that's exactly what i was looking for. this helps so much


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> oh wow, thank you that's exactly what i was looking for. this helps so much


----------



## Teplous

How do I remove male atx pins?
My tool doesn't seem to work


----------



## Big Elf

Which pin remover do you have? If it's the Lamptron one that comes as part of the box set of tool heads then it won't as it's badly designed (as well as being made of cheese).

Normally the ATX pin remover tools work on both male and female pins.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> How do I remove male atx pins?
> My tool doesn't seem to work


I have this one and it works great


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Which pin remover do you have? If it's the Lamptron one that comes as part of the box set of tool heads then it won't as it's badly designed (as well as being made of cheese).
> 
> Normally the ATX pin remover tools work on both male and female pins.


lol thats the one i have...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I have this one and it works great


i may get that one later, but i need a solution that will work today if possible?


----------



## lowfat

Use two staples. By far the best pin remover i have used.


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Use two staples. By far the best pin remover i have used.


lol i've heard you say that so many times on this forum, how do i use staples?


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Use two staples. By far the best pin remover i have used.


I second that. I have a molex remover as well, which does fit into the space much more easily than getting two staples in, but the problem is that the pins never want to come out unless I jam something into the front, which I can't do with the molex remover but I can with 2 staples.


----------



## Teplous

how do i do the staple thing?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> How I depin a connector w/ staples. The staples are heavy duty ones that I have filed down. They insert very easily and I've never broken them after hundreds of depins.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-63-1.jpg.html
> 
> Then I insert a 1.5mm hex wrench in the front and push gently on the pin.
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-62-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-61-1.jpg.html


@Teplous


----------



## Teplous

thanks @lowfat, you are a godsend


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> @Teplous


Maybe these are a few dumb questions with an obvious answer, but:

A) When sleeving a GPU, do you use the original power connector/terminals they come with, or do you buy a separate one to do the cabling and sleeving? I've never rewired or sleeved in my life, so I just want to make sure I don't screw up the original cables that came with my Titan if I don't have to... Or in case I make a mistake.

B) Also, when extending the lengths of cables, are all of the wires suppose to be copper or just some of them (for grounding purposes).


----------



## abirli

You can sleeve the original cables, usually I remake them bc the orig ones have double wires etc.

And I always use copper wire. Ul1007 18 awg


----------



## lowfat

I only remake them if the stock ones aren't long enough. Or if the wire is a smaller gauge. Some wires on the stock Silverstone cables are 20g. These wires are too small to get a tight weave with normal sleeve.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

This is the wire I got from Fry's the other day. I was planning to use it for my Titan, and for the 24 pin... Maybe for a few other areas with visible wiring too. It's rigid enough that I can do 90 degree bends, or shape It however I like. Bottom line, I don't plan on sleeving it. Just leaving it with the white rubber skin you see in the picture.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/Mobile Uploads/IMAG2285.jpg.html


----------



## ik0n

I'm going for a Black/Gold theme for my next build. Anyone know how well Lutro0's Gold or Tan Paracord match the new Asus Z87 boards?


Here's the Asus Z87-Pro board I plan to get.

Edit: Corrected image per Teplous' comment!


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ik0n*
> 
> I'm going for a Black/Gold theme for my next build. Anyone know how well Lutro0's Gold or Tan Paracord match the new Asus Z87 boards?
> 
> 
> Here's the Asus Z87-Pro board I plan to get.


FYI thats the deluxe/dual mobo not the pro


----------



## buzzbuzzbuzz

Back on to staples- I've noticed a HUGE difference between staple brands. I first tried the el cheapo dollar store staples. They would fold/buckle very easily and I would go through 2-8 staples per pin. Yesterday I brought home a few dozen Swingline branded staples from work. I used 3 staples to do my remaining 20 pins, and that's only because I lost one of them!


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buzzbuzzbuzz*
> 
> Back on to staples- I've noticed a HUGE difference between staple brands. I first tried the el cheapo dollar store staples. They would fold/buckle very easily and I would go through 2-8 staples per pin. Yesterday I brought home a few dozen Swingline branded staples from work. I used 3 staples to do my remaining 20 pins, and that's only because I lost one of them!


i started using staples last night, i grabbed some staples from home depot that i had for my staple gun and i've gotten halfway through my 24 pin, with out any problems, so that said i have to agree, use quality staples lol


----------



## lowfat

Try filing down a pair of heavy duty staples. I have never broken a single one in the past year or so. They get extremely heavy use, maybe 500 pins removed. You can also see i added wire insulation to the handles so it is easy on my hands.


----------



## buzzbuzzbuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Try filing down a pair of heavy duty staples. I have never broken a single one in the past year or so. They get extremely heavy use, maybe 500 pins removed. You can also see i added wire insulation to the handles so it is easy on my hands.


I just grab the trusty needlenose pliers and grip the staple about 2mm above the pin, then do the other staple. Then I grab both at the same time and give it one more slight push down to make sure it's released. I stole the technique from how I learned to de-pin VW wiring harnesses.


----------



## ZephyrBit

I used these and they are perfect for the job, no filing needed
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-1-4-in-Light-Duty-Staples-1-000-Pack-TRA204T/100654918


----------



## Recr3ational

Best way to get cables over the "clips" Just cut the end of a cotton bud

















Does anyone know what those cable clips thing called? Its the black ones that goes around the cables?


----------



## Brian18741

These kind of cable routing clips?

Or these cable combs?


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> These kind of cable routing clips?
> 
> Or these cable combs?


Like the E22 combs but the clips instead, the ones that clips one cable to the other if that makes sense?


----------



## Majorhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Like the E22 combs but the clips instead, the ones that clips one cable to the other if that makes sense?


Like these? They can be found on Lutro0's site.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majorhi*
> 
> Like these? They can be found on Lutro0's site.


No erm, wait ill see if i can find the pic
They're called Mod/Smart cable bundler lol.
Link


----------



## lowfat

They break easily, especially the 4 wire ones. They also look rather terrible if you are using them on cables like a 24pin as you need so many of them.


----------



## Brian18741

+1

I don't like the look of cable combs at all. Have you considered stitching them?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> They break easily, especially the 4 wire ones. They also look rather terrible if you are using them on cables like a 24pin as you need so many of them.


Definitely this. I only use them on the 8-pin power cable. I tried them on the 24-pin and it looked worse than without. If the bundlers are hidden though, it looks fine. But if they are going to be visible, definitely go with the Lutro0 cable combs
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> +1
> 
> I don't like the look of cable combs at all. Have you considered stitching them?


I second this. Stitching/sewing the cables looks hundreds times better than any comb/bundler IMHO. And I found a real easy tutorial on stitching/sewing that worked great on all my cables.


----------



## Recr3ational

I have but it's so much effort and time that I don't really have lol. That's the reason I sleeve extensions instead of the whole psu. I might just leave it all tbh. It looks good as is.

I have the e22 cable comb for the 24pin. I've hidden it behind my mobo tray. But the 8 pin is harder to hide l.


----------



## lowfat

I personally think stitching looks very bad







. But I also think that using more than 2 combs per cable looks bad.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I personally think stitching looks very bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But I also think that using more than 2 combs per cable looks bad.


That kind of surprises me lowfat. With as meticulous as your builds are I would have thought you would be an advocate of cable stitching


----------



## PCModderMike

Your stitching is looking A+ morencyam. I wouldn't mind having my cables look like that in my build. But sleeving takes up so much time as it is, I don't think I could fit in stitching.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> They break easily, especially the 4 wire ones. They also look rather terrible if you are using them on cables like a 24pin as you need so many of them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I personally think stitching looks very bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But I also think that using more than 2 combs per cable looks bad.


That's a lot of bad and terrible stuff. Is there any sort of cable management device/tool/method out there that does look good to you?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Your stitching is looking A+ morencyam. I wouldn't mind having my cables look like that in my build. But sleeving takes up so much time as it is, I don't think I could fit in stitching.


Thanks Mike, I'm real happy with how it turned out








The stitching method I used was actually a lot a faster than the FrankNSteinPC method. I did about 8-10 stitchings on the 24-pin and it only took me about an hour once I got the process down. I linked the method I used just a few posts up where I posted the picture.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> That kind of surprises me lowfat. With as meticulous as your builds are I would have thought you would be an advocate of cable stitching


I think it would not be as bad if people used less of it. Like the combs a couple of them behind the motherboard tray. One at each end to provide tension.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Your stitching is looking A+ morencyam. I wouldn't mind having my cables look like that in my build. But sleeving takes up so much time as it is, I don't think I could fit in stitching.
> 
> That's a lot of bad and terrible stuff. Is there any sort of cable management device/tool/method out there that does look good to you?


I am a fan of using tension to train and hold the cables in place. You can have 8+ inch long runs holds their shape if there is tension on the cables. Especially if the sleeving is very tight over the wire.

If your case doesn't have cable management grommets then I like the way I did my Lian Li. 2 screws, some scrap aluminum, and about 10 minutes each and you can make retention brackets. This is IMHO the best way.
http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-40.jpg.html

If there is cable management grommets then a pair of combs plus the grommets will likely be enough to keep the cables straight and hold their place on the viewable side.
http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-23.jpg.html


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Your stitching is looking A+ morencyam. I wouldn't mind having my cables look like that in my build. But sleeving takes up so much time as it is, I don't think I could fit in stitching.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Mike, I'm real happy with how it turned out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stitching method I used was actually a lot a faster than the FrankNSteinPC method. I did about 8-10 stitchings on the 24-pin and it only took me about an hour once I got the process down. I linked the method I used just a few posts up where I posted the picture.
Click to expand...

Yea I noticed that, I'll definitely check it out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Your stitching is looking A+ morencyam. I wouldn't mind having my cables look like that in my build. But sleeving takes up so much time as it is, I don't think I could fit in stitching.
> 
> That's a lot of bad and terrible stuff. Is there any sort of cable management device/tool/method out there that does look good to you?
> 
> 
> 
> I am a fan of using tension to train and hold the cables in place. You can have 8+ inch long runs holds their shape if there is tension on the cables. Especially if the sleeving is very tight over the wire.
> 
> If your case doesn't have cable management grommets then I like the way I did my Lian Li. 2 screws, some scrap aluminum, and about 10 minutes each and you can make retention brackets. This is IMHO the best way.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-40.jpg.html
> 
> If there is cable management grommets then a pair of combs plus the grommets will likely be enough to keep the cables straight and hold their place on the viewable side.
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-23.jpg.html
Click to expand...

Tension huh, I like it. No doubt you are a clean sleeving machine lowfat. Always like seeing your work.


----------



## Teplous

@morencyam@lowfat
Thank you guys for helping me out, here's the end result


----------



## amatthie

Does anyone know if lustro's 3/4" heatshrink will fit over the usb 3.0 internal header? I'm using the header you can purchase from MODDIY. http://www.moddiy.com/products/2.0mm-Dupont-20%252dPin-USB-3.0-Housing-Female-Connector.html

I have MDPC sata heatshrink which measures 3/4" when flattened but I can't stretch it enough to fit over the connector. I purchased 1" heatshrink from FCPU but that stuff is huge, approx 1 1/2" unshrunk & flattened, it doesn't shrink down enough on the cables to create a smooth look.


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amatthie*
> 
> Does anyone know if lustro's 3/4" heatshrink will fit over the usb 3.0 internal header? I'm using the header you can purchase from MODDIY. http://www.moddiy.com/products/2.0mm-Dupont-20%252dPin-USB-3.0-Housing-Female-Connector.html
> 
> I have MDPC sata heatshrink which measures 3/4" when flattened but I can't stretch it enough to fit over the connector. I purchased 1" heatshrink from FCPU but that stuff is huge, approx 1 1/2" unshrunk & flattened, it doesn't shrink down enough on the cables to create a smooth look.


no the 3.0 header is too big. and i believe lutro0s shrink is slightly thicker than mdpc so that should mean less strech.

depending on what style usb 3.0 header you have, mine had 2 wires, i sleeved both individually and used super glue to keep the sleeve and shrink there.

heres a pic , its the black wires

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/Black Gold/DSCF1005_zpsdfe99bb3.jpg.html


----------



## lowfat

Most of the time you cant do them individually since the other side of the connector could be soldered in place.

@Teplous, is that a cardboard box?


----------



## Teplous

@lowfat, yes haha it is, that's the refurb box my mobo came in. I'll be building a case for it later this summer


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> @lowfat, yes haha it is, that's the refurb box my mobo came in. I'll be building a case for it later this summer


Build a case? Like from scratch? Make sure you check out the Scratch Case club link in my sig


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Build a case? Like from scratch? Make sure you check out the Scratch Case club link in my sig


awesome i'll check that out


----------



## amatthie

Low fat is correct, I had to solder the 2 ground wires together for 1 pin. It wouldn't be a smooth look.
Maybe I could just slip my sata sleeve on prior to putting the pins in place. The heatshrink wouldn't go over the connector though. This may not be an issue because the connector is so small. I'll dig around more for different size shrinks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Most of the time you cant do them individually since the other side of the connector could be soldered in place.
> 
> @Teplous, is that a cardboard box?


----------



## rootwyrm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Most of the time you cant do them individually since the other side of the connector could be soldered in place.


This this a thousand times this. Though it's more often molded in place, and the wires are extremely reliant on the strain relief molded in at both ends. Without the strain relief, they _will_ break. Plus more often than not, that cable is actually shielded. So if you're gonna cut anything, you wanna split the device ends (the rectangular blue ones) so you don't compromise the jacket's integrity.

What you need for the USB 3.0 stuff (both ends) is either 4:1 or 6:1 that isn't crap.
http://www.cableorganizer.com/heat-shrink/6-1-heat-shrink-tube.html
Yep - 2.75" to less than half an inch. And it's *$122* for 48" of it. Economical ain't much better - $70 for 48". So much for economical, huh? (Seriously, you can get a 250' spool of high quality 3:1 for less than that.)

If anyone's got a better alternative, believe me, I am ALL ears. I have tried more stuff than I care to admit.


----------



## vilius572

Anyone want to trade sleeved cables for Corsair AX860 to gtx 660 1.5gb?


----------



## buzzbuzzbuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rootwyrm*
> 
> This this a thousand times this. Though it's more often molded in place, and the wires are extremely reliant on the strain relief molded in at both ends. Without the strain relief, they _will_ break. Plus more often than not, that cable is actually shielded. So if you're gonna cut anything, you wanna split the device ends (the rectangular blue ones) so you don't compromise the jacket's integrity.
> 
> What you need for the USB 3.0 stuff (both ends) is either 4:1 or 6:1 that isn't crap.
> http://www.cableorganizer.com/heat-shrink/6-1-heat-shrink-tube.html
> Yep - 2.75" to less than half an inch. And it's *$122* for 48" of it. Economical ain't much better - $70 for 48". So much for economical, huh? (Seriously, you can get a 250' spool of high quality 3:1 for less than that.)
> 
> If anyone's got a better alternative, believe me, I am ALL ears. I have tried more stuff than I care to admit.


I'd be inclined to try masking the connector and using Plastidip rather than pay those kind of prices


----------



## lowfat

As much as I like PlastiDip, i cant imagine a PlastiDipped cable is going to look good.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> As much as I like PlastiDip, i cant imagine a PlastiDipped cable is going to look good.


In the words of Barney, "challenge accepted"!

Just need to find a blue one as all I have are black extensions for those.


----------



## buzzbuzzbuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> In the words of Barney, "challenge accepted"!
> 
> Just need to find a blue one as all I have are black extensions for those.


I had the same mindset! I'll need to pick up some plastidip this weekend to experiment.


----------



## buzzbuzzbuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> In the words of Barney, "challenge accepted"!
> 
> Just need to find a blue one as all I have are black extensions for those.


Don't forget who had the idea if it becomes the next sleeving sensation!


----------



## Himo5

ModDIY also do 3:1 - 25mm heatshrink in various colours, if this is the USB 3.0 header you had in mind.


----------



## Mystriss

I cheated and bought a low profile USB 3.0 connector to make my own extension and hide that whole mess in the front panel of my case


----------



## rootwyrm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> ModDIY also do 3:1 - 25mm heatshrink in various colours, if this is the USB 3.0 header you had in mind.


That's not quite the stuff I'm talking about. Two problems with the MODDIY stuff - it's sized for cables that go side-by-side rather than stacked, and it's only 3:1. That's all well and good if you have old-style USB3 with the huge round cables and want to shrink over the connector itself. In fact, I would recommend that setup for most old style USB3 headers with round cables.

Modern USB3 is two _flat stacked_ cables though, that dramatically reduces the diameter. So you're going from a 25mm x 8mm header to a 10mm x 3-4mm cable bundle. (Each cable being 10x1.5-2.) Yep - need more shrink. If you use 1/2" Techflex PET sleeving and put BOTH cables in it, they have ample wiggle room, to give you some idea. The reason for 4:1 or 6:1 is also because if you're careful, you can then shrink and show the strain relief. This is actually best because it means additional anchoring and strain relief. Plus, IMHO, it looks way, way better to shrink and anchor at the strain relief, at least on the new style cables. The width difference is massive enough that covering the header side all the way up to the cables looks bad.


----------



## lowfat

My solution is to remove the front usb cables. Actually the only front panel cables i ever hook up is power and reset.


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rootwyrm*
> 
> That's not quite the stuff I'm talking about. Two problems with the MODDIY stuff - it's sized for cables that go side-by-side rather than stacked, and it's only 3:1. That's all well and good if you have old-style USB3 with the huge round cables and want to shrink over the connector itself. In fact, I would recommend that setup for most old style USB3 headers with round cables.
> 
> Modern USB3 is two _flat stacked_ cables though, that dramatically reduces the diameter. So you're going from a 25mm x 8mm header to a 10mm x 3-4mm cable bundle. (Each cable being 10x1.5-2.) Yep - need more shrink. If you use 1/2" Techflex PET sleeving and put BOTH cables in it, they have ample wiggle room, to give you some idea. The reason for 4:1 or 6:1 is also because if you're careful, you can then shrink and show the strain relief. This is actually best because it means additional anchoring and strain relief. Plus, IMHO, it looks way, way better to shrink and anchor at the strain relief, at least on the new style cables. The width difference is massive enough that covering the header side all the way up to the cables looks bad.


Lighter USB 3.0 cabling sounds favorable for the Super FrontX project I'm looking at in my next build, having worked out that I've never used at least 70% of all the connections on all the motherboards I've ever had - mostly because they weren't accessible from the front of the desktop.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Lighter USB 3.0 cabling sounds favorable for the Super FrontX project I'm looking at in my next build, having worked out that I've never used at least 70% of all the connections on all the motherboards I've ever had - mostly because they weren't accessible from the front of the desktop.


Roger that! I couldn't imagine not having USB ports at the front of my desktop. I don't have an optical drive so USB is all I use.


----------



## Mystriss

I'd forgot to mention my plastidip experimentation this morning. I'd attempted to plastidip my tinned copper rigid wires, it actually came out alright but it's a bit of a trick to do without drips. You gotta spray from quite a bit further back then recommended and do really thin coats. Also I plastidipped the ribbon cable on my PCI riser and it's not bad looking (I personally prefer the thinner of the two which I did with a glossy black nail polish, though I'm not sure it'd prevent shorts)


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

First time sleeving. I do not have miles of copper available at the flick of a wrist, so I am cannibalizing all of my original connectors, using ModSmart Gun Metal Para cord and no heat shrink. I plan on taking my time as I have another 6 pin, 2 CPU 8 Pins, and the 24 pin left, before I tackle the rest of the wires. I have split all of the connectors from Split Double over to singles, so that each cable has its own rail to rest on. Not sure if this actually helps spread the load across the PSUs, but they seem to run much better this way, so I will enjoy my placebos if I am wrong about that.

Don't worry, the first picture below may clearly show the cables aren't sleeved to the PSU, but I promise they are.


----------



## the_cyberspace

And sleeved my 24pin cable with sleeving from MDPC-X and used some Black Cable Combs (codename: Stealth) from Lutro Customs:


----------



## socketus

that is some superb work you 3 guys have come up with. The plastidip, the separate rails, and that color combo - what's that psu ? man, have you got it straightened out









ps. found it, corsair ax760 .. no double wires ? yippee !


----------



## lowfat

Took a bunch of random photographs today. A few of them of course were of sleeving.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-70.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-73.jpg.html


----------



## LiL_JaSoN

so i pulled out all the cables from the connectors for sleeving..

do they have to go back into the same slot the same way they out? or can i plug them into any slot?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

I would think it depends on what you are putting them into...


----------



## LiL_JaSoN

the atx24 pin?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiL_JaSoN*
> 
> the atx24 pin?


Did you pull all 24 Pins at once? Make sure that you put the colors back in their respective area, but orange is orange is orange, and has the same funtion. Make sure an Orange cable isn't in the Red spot though...


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiL_JaSoN*
> 
> the atx24 pin?


Repository of power supply pinouts will tell you how your wires should run. Unless your power supply is not in the repository, then you are better off asking the power supply manufacturer for help or getting the same PSU at the store, documenting the pinout and returning it.


----------



## Majorhi

I'm awaiting the arrival of some sleeving to do my PSU. So I started laying out the cables to see how they would all run. I stumbled upon an issue with the PCI-E cable that came with my PSU. I was hoping to make two PCI-E cables and remove the 2 not used on each one. But this seems to be daisy chained. Any ideas on how to make the below cable look clean once sleeved or an alternative method of sleeving this? Thanks


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majorhi*
> 
> I'm awaiting the arrival of some sleeving to do my PSU. So I started laying out the cables to see how they would all run. I stumbled upon an issue with the PCI-E cable that came with my PSU. I was hoping to make two PCI-E cables and remove the 2 not used on each one. But this seems to be daisy chained. Any ideas on how to make the below cable look clean once sleeved or an alternative method of sleeving this? Thanks


Do 



.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Has anyone attempted to modify and sleeve one of these Rosewill modules? ...It's what I'm using on my "Liquidator" build.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Has anyone attempted to modify and sleeve one of these Rosewill modules? ...It's what I'm using on my "Liquidator" build.


It shouldn't be too difficult. We use that style round connectors at work. Just loosen the two screws on the strain relief clip. There should be another screw near the black end cap the unscrews then the silver housing will slide back away from the black piece. The only way to take the silver housing off is to desolder the wires from the pins, at with the ones I've always dealt with, or side it all the way down to the atx connected style plugs


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majorhi*
> 
> I'm awaiting the arrival of some sleeving to do my PSU. So I started laying out the cables to see how they would all run. I stumbled upon an issue with the PCI-E cable that came with my PSU. I was hoping to make two PCI-E cables and remove the 2 not used on each one. But this seems to be daisy chained. Any ideas on how to make the below cable look clean once sleeved or an alternative method of sleeving this? Thanks
> 
> -snip-


With some work and by stagering the sleeving you can do something like this.



Or you can simply turn it into an 8pin pcie and bring the wires from the PSU and/or use the double wire method:


----------



## Majorhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> With some work and by stagering the sleeving you can do something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can simply turn it into an 8pin pcie and bring the wires from the PSU and/or use the double wire method:


That looks great! Unfortunately with what I was wanting to do with my cabeling it would look kind of odd IMO. Perhaps if I had adequate funds this go round I'd do the double wire method. My last project depleted most of my mod funds.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Heres a bit of cable stitching to finish off my cables


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

I apologize, as I don't have time to search right now, but where can I find the Lutr0o cable combs? I keep looking and everywhere is sold out. I want to clean my system up, a lot.


----------



## buzzbuzzbuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I apologize, as I don't have time to search right now, but where can I find the Lutr0o cable combs? I keep looking and everywhere is sold out. I want to clean my system up, a lot.


They're sold through his website. I ordered some last week, but it seems there is a delay on them with some shipping issues.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buzzbuzzbuzz*
> 
> They're sold through his website. I ordered some last week, but it seems there is a delay on them with some shipping issues.


I usually order from FrozenCPU, as they ship fast.. I will order from his site, as I haven't even been there yet, lol. Thank you.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buzzbuzzbuzz*
> 
> They're sold through his website. I ordered some last week, but it seems there is a delay on them with some shipping issues.


Ordered! Thanks for the tip. I am not worried if it takes a few days to ship either. All is well.

Going to make the connectors match as well, and replace the red with black.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majorhi*
> 
> That looks great! Unfortunately with what I was wanting to do with my cabeling it would look kind of odd IMO. Perhaps if I had adequate funds this go round I'd do the double wire method. My last project depleted most of my mod funds.


I didn't like that about my cables either. I ended up making 2 separate 6 pin pcie cables using the original connectors.


----------



## Brian18741

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Heres a bit of cable stitching to finish off my cables
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great work man! Very well trained cables, I love the pic of the 24 pin standing up!


----------



## The.Crusher

Hey Guys,

I have a Corsair RM650 psu and I want to make a custom 24 pin cable for it. On the psu side of the cable the connector is split into 2 in a kinda strange 10 and 14 pin layout for which I haven't found an aftermarket connector, so I decided I use the stock one. But I'm not able to remove the pins. I have an mdpc pin remover which has never failed me before, so I'm a bit clueless here. Is there any magic trick or technique?

Thanks.


----------



## ZephyrBit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The.Crusher*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> I have a Corsair RM650 psu and I want to make a custom 24 pin cable for it. On the psu side of the cable the connector is split into 2 in a kinda strange 10 and 14 pin layout for which I haven't found an aftermarket connector, so I decided I use the stock one. But I'm not able to remove the pins. I have an mdpc pin remover which has never failed me before, so I'm a bit clueless here. Is there any magic trick or technique?
> 
> Thanks.


Try using a hairdryer on the connector for 15-30s, never failed me.


----------



## The.Crusher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZephyrBit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *The.Crusher*
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> Try using a hairdryer on the connector for 15-30s, never failed me.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip, but still not working...







I must be a real lame or something, but that stuff seems it's never going to get out.


----------



## Brian18741

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The.Crusher*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> I have a Corsair RM650 psu and I want to make a custom 24 pin cable for it. On the psu side of the cable the connector is split into 2 in a kinda strange 10 and 14 pin layout for which I haven't found an aftermarket connector, so I decided I use the stock one. But I'm not able to remove the pins. I have an mdpc pin remover which has never failed me before, so I'm a bit clueless here. Is there any magic trick or technique?
> 
> Thanks.


Like these? 14 pin and 10 pin


----------



## The.Crusher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *The.Crusher*
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> Like these? 14 pin and 10 pin
Click to expand...

Yep, thanks








I will try a little more to remove the pins, then if I still cannot do it, I will order them.


----------



## lowfat

Pin removers suck. Time to move to the staple method.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The.Crusher*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> I have a Corsair RM650 psu and I want to make a custom 24 pin cable for it. On the psu side of the cable the connector is split into 2 in a kinda strange 10 and 14 pin layout for which I haven't found an aftermarket connector, so I decided I use the stock one. But I'm not able to remove the pins. I have an mdpc pin remover which has never failed me before, so I'm a bit clueless here. Is there any magic trick or technique?
> 
> Thanks.


You will be surprised on how much you have to pull on some of these psu units.

Make sure you push the wire into the connector then push in the extractor making sure it is in the right spots and then wrap the wire around your index finger and pull straight out using the connector as leverage. I show how to do this on my MDPC Heatshrink Sleeving Guide.

Some PSUs just take a bit more force but the wire will pop out.


----------



## morencyam

There were a few times I thought I was going to break the pin because I had to pull so hard to get the pin out. But once they finally popped out they looked exactly the same as the ones that came right out with a gentle tug


----------



## The.Crusher

Thanks for the answers. I will try it real hard when I get home


----------



## The.Crusher

@Lutro0: I learned sleeving based on that video you mentioned, it's a shame I haven't remembered that part







Thanks for the tip.

Ok, so I won







To be exact, brute force has. I'm at almost half way now. Some pins came out quite easy, for some I needed all my strength, but the very first pin is not ok. Here is a pic after I got it out (took me an hour, and all my strength):



So I guess I broke the pin, no wonder I needed so much power to get it out... Do you guys think I will be able to use it, or I have to re-crimp it if I want to use the original cable someday?

Anyway, here is the 8pin I did at the weekend:


----------



## Inelastic

If you use staples, you have room to fit something between them, like thin needle nose pliers, and push the pin out from the other side.


----------



## buzzbuzzbuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> If you use staples, you have room to fit something between them, like thin needle nose pliers, and push the pin out from the other side.


A 2.5 or 3mm allen wrench works great to push out the stubborn ones

$5 at the Home Depot

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-9-Piece-SAE-and-8-Piece-Metric-Folding-Hex-Key-Set-51233/203792378


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Pin removers suck. Time to move to the staple method.


I just bought a pin remover yesterday... Now I'm having second thoughts about sleeving my cables, and just hiring someone to do it instead.


----------



## stickg1

Yeah it's a pain to do, but it's so satisfying once you're done.


----------



## ds84

My gpu cable is 6+2, but i only need the 6 for now. Should i do cable sewing for the 6+2 and leave the 2 hanging or completely hide it behind?


----------



## stickg1

If you don't plan on needing the +2 for a while then I would hide it. You can always pull it out later if you upgrade/change GPUs.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> If you don't plan on needing the +2 for a while then I would hide it. You can always pull it out later if you upgrade/change GPUs.


Agreed. Both my cards are dual 6-pin so my +2's are all hidden. I actually didn't even bother sleaving them. Kind of regretting that now that I'm starting to look at upgrades and will most likely need them


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The.Crusher*
> 
> So I guess I broke the pin, no wonder I needed so much power to get it out... Do you guys think I will be able to use it, or I have to re-crimp it if I want to use the original cable someday?


Ohhh, I bet I know what happened; sometimes the little wings get stuck in the connector walls - like they actually poke a hole in the plastic, I've even had one go all the way through >.< Unfortunately the pin will likely pop out of the back of the connector when you plug it in cause the single wing can't quite hold it. That said, however, if you make sure to push that wire back in all the way once you plug the connector(s) in, it'll make the electrical connection and work. Personally, I'd replace it cause it just takes a minute and a pair of smaller needle nose pliers, maybe a dot of solder if you really want it secure.

And for others, to prevent that, you gotta push the wire ALL the way into the connector AFTER you've got the de-pinning implement in there.


----------



## abirli

when this happens to me (usually only the corsair rounded pins) i use an xacto knfie to push the wing back out, itll break off but there will still be some to grab onto the connector


----------



## Hits9Nine

Finally finished! My fingers have never been so burnt... but it was worth the pain.


----------



## buzzbuzzbuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> My gpu cable is 6+2, but i only need the 6 for now. Should i do cable sewing for the 6+2 and leave the 2 hanging or completely hide it behind?


I took the lazy man's route on mine and bought a $8 modright 6-pin extension that was presleeved.


----------



## The.Crusher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Ohhh, I bet I know what happened; sometimes the little wings get stuck in the connector walls - like they actually poke a hole in the plastic, I've even had one go all the way through >.< Unfortunately the pin will likely pop out of the back of the connector when you plug it in cause the single wing can't quite hold it. That said, however, if you make sure to push that wire back in all the way once you plug the connector(s) in, it'll make the electrical connection and work. Personally, I'd replace it cause it just takes a minute and a pair of smaller needle nose pliers, maybe a dot of solder if you really want it secure.


Aaaaand it's happening again... The very last pin







I could get out the rest without any hassle, but this last sucker messes with me.
Quote:


> And for others, to prevent that, you gotta push the wire ALL the way into the connector AFTER you've got the de-pinning implement in there.


I did exactly this for all the pins, still that happend. :S


----------



## Mystriss

hmmm *re-examines pin damage* It's a bit hard to tell if that wing is folded back on itself or if it's broken off - a folded wing is usually from not getting the wing pushed all the way down before it hits the inside of the connector (then brute force causes it to fold, or it can make a hole/rut in the connector and subsequently fold or break the wing off.) Though regardless, as long as you are getting the wings fully depressed by ensuring the wire's pushed all the way in... Unless your tools A) not got long enough 'depressers' to hold the wings fully down, or B) not getting pushed all the way in itself.

Perhaps someone with more de-pinning experience has a different suggestion? I've only actually de-pinned two or three systems myself as I prefer to make all my cables from scratch. *shrug*


----------



## buzzbuzzbuzz

A shot of my very first sleeving project. Not the prettiest, I know...


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## lowfat

The white connectors are a nice touch.


----------



## The.Crusher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> ...
> Personally, I'd replace it cause it just takes a minute and a pair of smaller needle nose pliers, maybe a dot of solder if you really want it secure.
> ...


Can you elaborate on this method?







Do you mean that I can solder back the broken off wing?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> hmmm *re-examines pin damage* It's a bit hard to tell if that wing is folded back on itself or if it's broken off - a folded wing is usually from not getting the wing pushed all the way down before it hits the inside of the connector (then brute force causes it to fold, or it can make a hole/rut in the connector and subsequently fold or break the wing off.) Though regardless, as long as you are getting the wings fully depressed by ensuring the wire's pushed all the way in... Unless your tools A) not got long enough 'depressers' to hold the wings fully down, or B) not getting pushed all the way in itself.
> 
> Perhaps someone with more de-pinning experience has a different suggestion? I've only actually de-pinned two or three systems myself as I prefer to make all my cables from scratch. *shrug*


A came to the same conclusion as your option A. So I got out the last pin, on this picture you can clearly see that the wing folded back:


I cannot decide myself on the previous one if it is folded back or broken off...

Thanks for the help anyway.


----------



## Mystriss

Clarification: I meant solder for replacing the pin without a special crimping tool. If you solder the wire to the replacement pin you can just use a pair of needle nose pliers and don't have to worry about getting the crimp (that actually holds the pin on the wire) super secure. I doubt you could solder on a replacement wing, even if you had a small enough head and steady enough hand I don't think it would be strong enough to hold.

As for that second image, you 'might' be able to save that wing, though more often than not it snaps off when you try to bend it back into place and unfortunately that ones bent all the way up at the junction too. Sometimes you can "make it work" with like half a wing, but even then it's just not going to stay in the connector when you plug the in.

As a note you can still use the pins with broken wings if you really need to; you just have to make sure that you push those specific wires ALL the way back into the connector once you've plugged it in so it makes a good electrical connection with your male connector pin/header. I once got a defective PCI-e extension and one of the pins was like shorter than all the others; for months I was pulling my hair out trying to resolve random blue screen/black screens I was getting - I replaced the pci-e cable and it all went away, then later discovered the malformed pin was the problem all along heh.


----------



## duckweedpb7

First attempt at heatshrikless, turned out ok I think


----------



## P1nPo1nt

Just finished sleeving my Seasonic x560w powersupply - paracord.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Does it really make a difference if the copper itself is woven or solid to lengthen a power cable? I have a 100 foot roll of the 18AWG, and I wanted to be sure before I attempt anything.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Does it really make a difference if the copper itself is woven or solid to lengthen a power cable? I have a 100 foot roll of the 18AWG, and I wanted to be sure before I attempt anything.


in a computer? no. generally it's called stranded, fyi, and stranded wire is better for cords that bend frequently. solid wire is typically only used in wire that doesn't bend after installation(i.e. in walls).


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> in a computer? no. generally it's called stranded, fyi, and stranded wire is better for cords that bend frequently. solid wire is typically only used in wire that doesn't bend after installation(i.e. in walls).


One last question:

What is the technical term for the 4-pin molex whereby you can connect a continuous chain of them together? Where one end is female, the other end is male, and the wires are somewhere in the middle. A good example of that would be those Enermax fans ...I need several of these "molex connectors" to rewire my LED's as such so that I can daisy chain them together to conserve PSU cables and power up other necessary vital hardware.


----------



## DanielCoffey

I believe those are called molex 4-pin pass-through connectors. They don't seem very common.


----------



## Big Elf

FrozenCPU stock *them*. Sometimes called punch down connectors.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> FrozenCPU stock *them*. Sometimes called punch down connectors.


I had no idea these existed for the 4 pin connectors.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielCoffey*
> 
> I believe those are called molex 4-pin pass-through connectors. They don't seem very common.


They're more or less like the one below. Plug one in behind the other, like Lego blocks. This way they're all powered by a singular power cable. I'm only looking for the plastic connectors, not cables.


----------



## The.Crusher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Clarification: I meant solder for replacing the pin without a special crimping tool. If you solder the wire to the replacement pin you can just use a pair of needle nose pliers and don't have to worry about getting the crimp (that actually holds the pin on the wire) super secure. I doubt you could solder on a replacement wing, even if you had a small enough head and steady enough hand I don't think it would be strong enough to hold.
> 
> As for that second image, you 'might' be able to save that wing, though more often than not it snaps off when you try to bend it back into place and unfortunately that ones bent all the way up at the junction too. Sometimes you can "make it work" with like half a wing, but even then it's just not going to stay in the connector when you plug the in.
> 
> As a note you can still use the pins with broken wings if you really need to; you just have to make sure that you push those specific wires ALL the way back into the connector once you've plugged it in so it makes a good electrical connection with your male connector pin/header. I once got a defective PCI-e extension and one of the pins was like shorter than all the others; for months I was pulling my hair out trying to resolve random blue screen/black screens I was getting - I replaced the pci-e cable and it all went away, then later discovered the malformed pin was the problem all along heh.


Thanks for the clarification and all the information. I have a crimper, so it is easier to redo the pin with that.


----------



## stickg1

I have all my fans ready for my upcoming build. 5x Silverstone 120mm FN121-P and 1x Akasa Viper 140mm. Sleeved with Lutro0 Teleios Dark Gray. I had to shorten the wires on the one FN121-P because I will be using it as the CPU fan.


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## lowfat




----------



## morencyam

There are now words to describe the absolute beauty of that build James. Simply stunning


----------



## stickg1

Sigh, I need to go work on my cables some more, lol, thanks James!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Sigh, I need to go work on my cables some more, lol, thanks James!


It's depressing knowing my build(s) will never look half as good as anything from James


----------



## stickg1

Yeah, those builds are really something. I'm trying to focus more on details but I get so impatient. One thing I've noticed is I can sleeve a fan or PSU cable in half the time it used to take me when I first started out. So I'm definitely getting the hang of it. I'm glad I decided to just go for it instead of hiring someone to do it.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah, those builds are really something. I'm trying to focus more on details but I get so impatient. One thing I've noticed is I can sleeve a fan or PSU cable in half the time it used to take me when I first started out. So I'm definitely getting the hang of it. I'm glad I decided to just go for it instead of hiring someone to do it.


Agreed. I recently redid the heatshrink on my PSU cables because when I did them the first time a few years ago I had no idea what I was doing and it just looked terrible. The heatshrink was all different lengths and the sleeve wasn't in the connector all the way on some of the wires. It looks so much better now, but I still want to go heatshrinkless once Lutro0 releases the orange Teleios stuff and I redo all my wires again.


----------



## Brian18741

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Outstanding!


----------



## stickg1

I do like the Lutro0 Teleios. I haven't tried MDPC-X but I have tried paracord. I much prefer the plastic sleeving, makes life so much easier. It looks really nice too.


----------



## morencyam

I've used MDPC-X abd it's wonderful. I also tried paracord and wasn't a fan. Still have yet to try teleios, but I've only ever heard good things so I'm excited to try it


----------



## lowfat

PET is so much easier to train if the sleeving is tight. But bend radius is not as tight. I unfortunately did my pump cables so tight they have almost zero flex to the left or right.


----------



## ccRicers

How would you sleeve (and in a heatshrink-free manner) six double wires for two PCIe connectors in series?



I saw Lutro0's video on splicing double wires before, but I don't know how good that would look for six wires going down the same cable. This is for a 450w power supply where there isn't an option to use another PSU connection for another cable.

I could crimp the pairs of wires at the end with the same terminal, but there would be only enough room to fit one sleeve for each pin. I was thinking to just go sleeve-free with the last connector and use matching colored cables. Anyone have any other suggestions?


----------



## lowfat

I personally would not. I would run a new separate cable all the way back to the PSU.


----------



## stickg1

Well he can't, the PSU he has (I'm assuming it's a Silverstone SFX 450w Gold) because I have the same one right here. There's one 8 pin to use on the PSU. I would just crimp the double wire at PSU 8pin output.

That's what I plan to do.


----------



## lowfat

O der, I missed that. Then I would do a Y in the middle of the cable. Ys are 11ty times easier than doing a double cable shrinkless.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> How would you sleeve (and in a heatshrink-free manner) six double wires for two PCIe connectors in series?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw Lutro0's video on splicing double wires before, but I don't know how good that would look for six wires going down the same cable. This is for a 450w power supply where there isn't an option to use another PSU connection for another cable.
> 
> I could crimp the pairs of wires at the end with the same terminal, but there would be only enough room to fit one sleeve for each pin. I was thinking to just go sleeve-free with the last connector and use matching colored cables. Anyone have any other suggestions?


For that PSU I've done it two different ways: splicing wires in the middle, and also crimped double wires. The latter looks better but needs some practice.

Here on the left-hand picture you can see the heatshrink covering the splice in the middle of the white wires. Of the eight pins at the PSU side, five are ground and three are 12V, so you have to double one ground wire (5 become 6), and all three of the 12V wires (3 become 6). Obviously if you have a GPU with 8+6 pins, then you need to splice two more ground wires.

 

For the second example, I crimped wires together at the PSU side. You can sleeve this heatshrinkless, but it takes some practice. Some photos.


----------



## Brian18741

How do you plan the lengths of wire? Do you individually measure out each wire along the path it's going to take to allow for curves etc?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Oh, silly question inbound, that has nothing to do with wiring.. How do I set the +Spoiler tab, so that pictures and such aren't shown when I quote someone?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> How do you plan the lengths of wire? Do you individually measure out each wire along the path it's going to take to allow for curves etc?


That's something that takes practice as well. I haven't got the technique perfect yet. Simply speaking, if you make one wire that you are happy with then you can calculate the rest from these rules:

Each hole is 4.2mm apart.
An inner 90 degree curve is 6.6mm shorter than an outer curve.
So I do one wire at a time, and write down the length. Then I do the next one by adding or subtracting either of those numbers. Sometimes it comes out okay looking


----------



## Brian18741

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Oh, silly question inbound, that has nothing to do with wiring.. How do I set the +Spoiler tab, so that pictures and such aren't shown when I quote someone?


Use spoiler tags. [spolier] [/spoiler]

Put everything you want hidden between them. And obviously spell "Spoiler" right in the firt one, if I do it now, it will just hide it!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> That's something that takes practice as well. I haven't got the technique perfect yet. Simply speaking, if you make one wire that you are happy with then you can calculate the rest from these rules:
> 
> Each hole is 4.2mm apart.
> An inner 90 degree curve is 6.6mm shorter than an outer curve.
> So I do one wire at a time, and write down the length. Then I do the next one by adding or subtracting either of those numbers. Sometimes it comes out okay looking


That's handy to know, will mess around with it later, thanks for sharing!


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> Use spoiler tags. [spolier] [/spoiler]
> 
> Put everything you want hidden between them. And obviously spell "Spoiler" right in the firt one, if I do it now, it will just hide it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's handy to know, will mess around with it later, thanks for sharing!


Thank you! This has been bugging me, and now I can hide the stuff that everyone has already viewed without spending 5 minutes deleting stuff on the phone.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Sleeving progress on "Project Magis":
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/pi9rOpt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/S9UofpM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/I76LnW7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/6HAaaVx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/ofnOH7S
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/fWtKOZf


where did you get those nifty wire holders? do they come in black?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> where did you get those nifty wire holders? do they come in black?


Lutro0 Customs website (http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-cable-comb-codename-stealth) and they come in Clear and black, as well as an assorted amount of wires. (6-8-10-24)


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Lutro0 Customs website (Google) and they come in Clear and black, as well as an assorted amount of wires. (6-8-10-24)


what about this kind?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> Still experimenting...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next prototype...


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> what about this kind?


Last comment was updated after I found the link, but both are here: http://lutro0-customs.com/collections/cable-managment


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Last comment was updated after I found the link, but both are here: http://lutro0-customs.com/collections/cable-managment


Now I think i like the ones elder has better though.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> Now I think i like the ones elder has better though.




These? Gimme a few.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> 
> 
> These? Gimme a few.


yeah!


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> yeah!


UUUmmm After searching for Custom Cable Combs, Lutro0 Cable combs, E22 Cable Combs, and then finally going here: http://www.overclock.net/newsearch/?advanced=1&createdbyuserid%5B0%5D=339918&order=descending&search=&sort=lastupdate&type=61 :I think I figured it out...

He is taking E22 Combs and other combs, and MODIFYING them to fit the idea he needs for what he is putting in... If you look here:



on the far left, you can see the original cable combs.. My guess is that he is using a belt sander to make them work for what he needs specifically... hence why he says Experimenting... I could be wrong, but look at the pictures in his profile, and you will see a lot of combs that have been cut to pieces and modified.


----------



## Brian18741

Fair play to ya man, I was looking for that post only last night, couldn't find it anywhere.

@Elder, where can we buy these? There was some German website if I recall correctly. Not MDPCx.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> @Elder, where can we buy these? There was some German website if I recall correctly. Not MDPCx.


It's Bit-Tech Modding in Poland. I've bought a few of their combs now and they are pretty good. Very cheap as well.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> yeah!


I was wrong, and your answer lies below.. :-D Google fails at helping find those.. I guess you have to know so that you can get them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It's Bit-Tech Modding in Poland. I've bought a few of their combs now and they are pretty good. Very cheap as well.


Thank you for sharing those. I was WAY off on where they came from, :-(


----------



## Brian18741

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It's Bit-Tech Modding in Poland. I've bought a few of their combs now and they are pretty good. Very cheap as well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Legend, been looking for these for a while now. Very cheap as well!

How much was shipping to NL? I'm in Ireland, shouldn't be too much more expensive.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> Legend, been looking for these for a while now. Very cheap as well!
> 
> How much was shipping to NL? I'm in Ireland, shouldn't be too much more expensive.


First time it was 35 zloty and the next time it was 22 zloty, but I ordered a bunch of random stuff including screw taps and so on. I think there are 4 zlotys to the euro.


----------



## Brian18741

Yea that's it, very reasonable shipping!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> That's something that takes practice as well. I haven't got the technique perfect yet. Simply speaking, if you make one wire that you are happy with then you can calculate the rest from these rules:
> 
> Each hole is 4.2mm apart.
> An inner 90 degree curve is 6.6mm shorter than an outer curve.
> So I do one wire at a time, and write down the length. Then I do the next one by adding or subtracting either of those numbers. Sometimes it comes out okay looking


That sounds like a lot of work. I like my way where i guesstimate. Adjust it later on.


----------



## Brian18741

So how do you guesstimate and adjust later? Do you cut cables to length, crimp them, assemble into connectors and plug the cable in? Then disassemble and sleeve after you are happy all fits?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> So how do you guesstimate and adjust later? Do you cut cables to length, crimp them, assemble into connectors and plug the cable in? Then disassemble and sleeve after you are happy all fits?


I do one wire at a time inside the case. I do sleeve them right away too. Affer all cables are routed i will cut off the end of the wire to the proper length. Then recrimp and reshink the sleeve.


----------



## stickg1

So I was going to just resleeve one of my CPU 8pin cables. Two hours later I ran and crimped 8 new cables and sleeved them. Here is the result! (was my first time ever using the crimper, took a few goes but turned out really well!)


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> That sounds like a lot of work. I like my way where i guesstimate. Adjust it later on.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I do one wire at a time inside the case. I do sleeve them right away too. Affer all cables are routed i will cut off the end of the wire to the proper length. Then recrimp and reshink the sleeve.


I think what we do is not so different. One-by-one, sleeve right away because otherwise you cannot really judge if it curves well with the others. Then it's just comes down to how to 'guesstimate' as you put it. I don't find adding 4.2 to another number to be much work







After the 3rd wire I usually don't have to redo any.

What I do with the 24 pins is a lot more trouble, because I calculate them all beforehand, and if it's wrong, then sometimes I have to redo half of them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So I was going to just resleeve one of my CPU 8pin cables. Two hours later I ran and crimped 8 new cables and sleeved them. Here is the result! (was my first time ever using the crimper, took a few goes but turned out really well!)


That is great work for first time crimping


----------



## Brian18741

It's the 24 pin in particular I'm wondering about as it will have two large curves in it and I want to get a very nice flow to it.


----------



## lowfat

The 'cable comb disassembled' without the insert looks good. IMO it would be the perfect design assuming the cables are nice and tightly pinched together. My biggest problem with combs is them being spaced apart. The cables hold their shape batter if they are pressed together tightly.


----------



## Brian18741

I much prefer the "comb" flavour. I don't think visible combs look good at all. The more invisible the better.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> The more invisible the better.


I agree with this. But the spacing out of the cables brings your eyes to the them. Thus making the inside only combs more visible.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> I much prefer the "comb" flavour. I don't think visible combs look good at all. The more invisible the better.


Which is why I am a fan of cable lacing/stitching/sewing









But like lowfat said a while back, stitching can be over done and not look as good. I only have about 12" of the 24-pin visible and in that 12" there are only 3 visible stitchings.


----------



## stickg1

Went ahead and refreshed my 24pin with some yellow to match the rest of the build.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Went ahead and refreshed my 24pin with some yellow to match the rest of the build.


The sleeving looks very tight from your pics.


----------



## WiSK

Agree with this. I'm planning on my next build to try
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Which is why I am a fan of cable lacing/stitching/sewing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But like lowfat said a while back, stitching can be over done and not look as good. I only have about 12" of the 24-pin visible and in that 12" there are only 3 visible stitchings.


I wonder if there is a way to stitch inside the 24, with no thread showing. Like into the sleeve weave. You'd need some thin but very strong kind of thread.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Agree with this. I'm planning on my next build to try
> I wonder if there is a way to stitch inside the 24, with no thread showing. Like into the sleeve weave. You'd need some thin but very strong kind of thread.


It could be possible. There were a few times when I was stitching mine that the needle went through the sleeve.


----------



## Brian18741

What about trying to stitch only the inside cables, would that keep the outside cables in place?


----------



## Mystriss

I doubt the outside cables would stay tight if you only stitched the inside ones, but you could probably use tiger tail, beadalon, or even fishing line on the 'inside' face of all the cables I bet. (The first two are jewelry making/beading threads, tigertail actually has really thin metal wires in it to help it hold it's shape so that may or may not work out well)

Maybe I'll give it a shot this weekend and see if it's doable.


----------



## stickg1

All the cables are on the outside, what they mean is stitching the cables together on the inside of the bundle where the cables would be touching each other. Instead of having the string wrap around the cables, it would be hidden. I can imagine it would take some practice.

I was rounding third and heading home on my cables until I ran out of yellow. I have the CPU and MOBO cables done. No PCIe cables needed for now, but I did want to do my one MOLEX and one SATA but wont be able to. I have plenty of black, gray, and dark gray.


----------



## tinus93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It's Bit-Tech Modding in Poland. I've bought a few of their combs now and they are pretty good. Very cheap as well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: picture


No way everything can be this cheap on that site? Even the crimps are way cheaper than any other place I could find. 500 pins would go for only 60 PLN or 14.2 euro. But then again sata pins are expensive there. Also the long wing ones are a bit more expensive but still only cost 0.03 euro a piece. I will place an order for the combs to see if its a shop worth trying.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Damn, such nice work here! Making me consider doing this. Is an OCZ ZT 750W PSU worth sleeving? Haha


----------



## tinus93

Yes because why not? It has a simple pinout. My old zt650 was pretty easy to sleeve.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinus93*
> 
> Yes because why not? It has a simple pinout. My old zt650 was pretty easy to sleeve.


I'm about to water cool so I might as well knock this out while I'm at it. How much did it cost you to do on your 650?


----------



## tinus93

About $30 in paracord and $35 for the tools.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinus93*
> 
> About $30 in paracord and $35 for the tools.


Not bad at all! Sounds like I'll be adding that to the project. Thanks for the nudge!


----------



## Brian18741

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinus93*
> 
> No way everything can be this cheap on that site? Even the crimps are way cheaper than any other place I could find. 500 pins would go for only 60 PLN or 14.2 euro. But then again sata pins are expensive there. Also the long wing ones are a bit more expensive but still only cost 0.03 euro a piece. I will place an order for the combs to see if its a shop worth trying.


Keep us posted!


----------



## tinus93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> Keep us posted!


Overall including shipping was 25 euro's. The 24 pin one was about the same price in euro for a different cable comb available on the market. However shipping here is cheaper than it is with shopping outside of Europe. With about an euro difference. Faster shipping aswell with 3 business days vs 6-10. Oh well, will post again if they are here.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Agree with this. I'm planning on my next build to try
> I wonder if there is a way to stitch inside the 24, with no thread showing. Like into the sleeve weave. You'd need some thin but very strong kind of thread.


I actually did this with my gpu cables. I used paracord and it was my first time sleeving, but it turned out fairly good I think. I'll post some picks when I am able.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> All the cables are on the outside, what they mean is stitching the cables together on the inside of the bundle where the cables would be touching each other. Instead of having the string wrap around the cables, it would be hidden. I can imagine it would take some practice.


Yar that's what I meant too hehe but with tigertail for structure maybe. I don't think it'd be too hard though. Only hook up one of the connectors then work from there so you'd have the 'slack' in the individual cables to run the needle through the 'inside face' of the sleeving. Might get tricky if you don't have a 1:1 PSU though.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The sleeving looks very tight from your pics.


Thx low!

My case arrives today! I hope I don't have to sign for it, I wont be here. About to leave for work now. But once I get it set up I will determine how much I have to trim off my 24pin. I don't mind doing it because with all those doubles and twisted wires from the stock cables, when I sleeved them I didn't get all the lengths the same, so the cables are pretty messy and need a tune up anyway.


----------



## Elder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> UUUmmm After searching for Custom Cable Combs, Lutro0 Cable combs, E22 Cable Combs, and then finally going here: http://www.overclock.net/newsearch/?advanced=1&createdbyuserid%5B0%5D=339918&order=descending&search=&sort=lastupdate&type=61 :I think I figured it out...
> 
> He is taking E22 Combs and other combs, and MODIFYING them to fit the idea he needs for what he is putting in... If you look here:
> 
> 
> 
> on the far left, you can see the original cable combs.. My guess is that he is using a belt sander to make them work for what he needs specifically... hence why he says Experimenting... I could be wrong, but look at the pictures in his profile, and you will see a lot of combs that have been cut to pieces and modified.


Yep...experimenting.
Most of the pics from work / experiments can be seen in this gallery.

http://www.abload.de/gallery.php?key=sw3aqRlX

24pin, EPS, 8pin/6pin GPU,molex...and SATA clamp...
for Akasa SATA Slim.





There's more but I do not have time to do a large photo session ...
maybe in May that will take care of









Next prototype,handles ... stuck on a highly adhesive tape or bolted to the tray.


----------



## stickg1




----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elder*
> 
> and SATA clamp...
> for Akasa SATA Slim.


Where do you sell these at?!? *Throws money at*

Also can I stack two in one clamp / do you make a clamp for 6 in a 3 over 3 configuration? (Sabertooth 990FX Gen3/Rev2)


----------



## Elder

I needed to benchtable T60 few pieces (to organize Akasa Slim)
So I did the cdr file and laser cut what you see on the photo.

It is doubtful that the BIT-TECH store ordered it for me and introduced for sale.
As recently asked (and I sent them samples) were not interested ... ordinary clamps sell large quantities ... these to Akasa Slim is rather unusual.
You can write to the B-T request.


----------



## buzzbuzzbuzz

This makes me want a 3D printer even more...


----------



## lowfat

I have like 11ty various cable management and watercooling things envisioned in my head. Maybe one day soon.


----------



## buzzbuzzbuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I have like 11ty various cable management and watercooling things envisioned in my head. Maybe one day soon.


I just want a reservoir with a Tesla ball inside of it...


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buzzbuzzbuzz*
> 
> I just want a reservoir with a Tesla ball inside of it...


I meant ones I could 3d print. Not sure that is quite possible with a 3d printer...


----------



## buzzbuzzbuzz

First thing I would print would be all sorts of custom combs to route the wires running along the back panel- would make for some super clean cable management. Even little tiny ones for the fan controller cables and fan cables..... one of these days....


----------



## zmegati

Finally I found time to finish sleeving...here are the results:


----------



## Pimphare

@zmegati Looks great man. Going for the military surplus look? Jk. Do you have a build log?


----------



## PlumberIgor

Hello,I have one simple question and my question is: Which colour combinations of sleeving you recommend me to use in my case.I can't decide which colours will fit best in my case so I ask for your suggestions.
Photo's of my case:



I don't have any LED's except on GPU.


Excuse me for my English.English isn't my main language.

I was thinking about to do it in Slovakian country colours because I'm from Slovakia.
What do you think how it will look in White/Blue/Red colour?


----------



## Pimphare

@PlumberIgor

I think this would look good.


You can also play around with this online color tool.
http://www.choosemypc.net/sleeving/?p=53651f13cc69b


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> You can also play around with this online color tool.
> http://www.choosemypc.net/sleeving/?p=53651f13cc69b


Oooooh looks like they changed it. Last time I played around with that it was only the 24-pin


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Oooooh looks like they changed it. Last time I played around with that it was only the 24-pin


Yeah I noticed that too. That's pretty cool.


----------



## PlumberIgor

@Pimphare
Ty for that page.
http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/?p=536528dbe4272 Maybe I'll use this. VANILLA SANDS N.17, GREY MKII, SHADE 19.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PlumberIgor*
> 
> @Pimphare
> Ty for that page.
> http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/?p=536528dbe4272 Maybe I'll use this. VANILLA SANDS N.17, GREY MKII, SHADE 19.


No problem. Happy sleeving!


----------



## PlumberIgor

I hope this is my last question:
Can be MDPC-X sleeving cables done by heatshrinkless method?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PlumberIgor*
> 
> I hope this is my last question:
> Can be MDPC-X sleeving cables done by heatshrinkless method?


Yes.


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PlumberIgor*
> 
> I hope this is my last question:
> Can be MDPC-X sleeving cables done by heatshrinkless method?


Here is mine in the works...


----------



## PlumberIgor

@oc_geekWow. I'm jealous. It looks awesome. Nice job.


----------



## markrobbo96

If there's any other features you would like or think would make things easier on the sleeving prototyper at http://choosemypc.net/sleeving feel free to post them.

I would love to do something with photorealistic imagery of different colours if I can get high res pictures of the different MDPCX or paracord.

Feel free to direct link the images if you would like. Just have to click 'share as image' and right click -> 'copy image url' eg


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oc_geek*
> 
> Here is mine in the works...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good


----------



## TheDarkLord100




----------



## Brian18741

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oc_geek*
> 
> Here is mine in the works...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Looks good


Looks great!


----------



## Brian18741

So I'm planning a black and white theme with very slight red accent on the RAM. Definitely happy with the 24 pin. Not 100% on the 4pin PCIe. Any feedback?


----------



## morencyam

What about black-white-white-red?


----------



## WiSK

Oh hai


----------



## soulwrath

Damn I would really like some help & ideas on how i should sleeve this

http://www.amazon.com/Enermax-MaxRevo-Multiple-Modular-EMR1350EWT/dp/B0051VVU6G

and color scheme should i be consider? I am thinking all white cables with the black 800D so white & black

going to repaint my fans also white, while keeping the outside black just need an idea on what i should paint the fans with

Thanks guys


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Oh hai


I prefer this. Symmetrical sleeving is boring most of the time.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Here's my submission for my idea.


----------



## morencyam

looks good ProfeZZor


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Oh hai


I may need to steal this! That looks damn nice.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> looks good ProfeZZor


Thanks... Here's option two:


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Here's my submission for my idea.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Thanks... Here's option two:


I like the 6 & 8 pins in option two the best, but I personally think the blue is too overpowering in both 24-pin styles you've shown. I'd like to see an asymmetrical version of the 24-pin, kinda like @WiSK showed in that red/black/white setup a few posts up or the black and blue wires reversed so the blue has less wires covered.. Just my


----------



## vilius572

What do you think about this?  or this 
Which one is better?


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> What do you think about this?  or this
> Which one is better?


Or maybe this one?


----------



## WiSK

We can offer suggestions, but which one is better depends on you, since it will go in your rig


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> We can offer suggestions, but which one is better depends on you, since it will go in your rig


But What do you think will match my rig best?







Here is my rig  And staph explaining me about stock cooler!







My H60 broke.
And all of these ugly colorful cables will be sleeved.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> But What do you think will match my rig best?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my rig  And staph explaining me about stock cooler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My H60 broke.
> And all of these ugly colorful cables will be sleeved.


As the other poster said, it is up to you. You have to look at it and be happy with it. Later you may decide to Change, because someone else says it would match better if you didn't do something you had already done. Basically, take the examples given and make the decision that you like.


----------



## Gait

What is the best way to connect and sleeve 3 PWM fans to one fan header?
I'm using Corsair SP120 PWM fans, are the wires going to fit in one sleeve?
Because it has 4 wires instead of 3... Do I need to connect 2 fans to one male fan connector or can I solder the wires together?
But will the sleeving look nice when I solder them?


----------



## lowfat

Only one fan has the rpm cable connected to the header. You could daily chain the rest of the fans.


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gait*
> 
> What is the best way to connect and sleeve 3 PWM fans to one fan header?
> I'm using Corsair SP120 PWM fans, are the wires going to fit in one sleeve?
> Because it has 4 wires instead of 3... Do I need to connect 2 fans to one male fan connector or can I solder the wires together?
> But will the sleeving look nice when I solder them?


As the connectivity goes:
- Power (two wires) and PWM (1 wire) to all the FANs (read solder them, yes)
- RPM signal take ONLY one from one FAN of your choice (soldering RPM signals together messes it up to the point of making it unreadable from any controller)



The four wires (typically u use 22AWG) will fit in one sleeve; the pita is the split points...
I started that way ....



and ended up making a FAN hub like the one below (with the laserprinter / iron technique is pretty simple in the end)


----------



## Alvarado

Anyone know where I can this: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/professional-series-ax850-ax750-ax650-individually-sleeved-modular-cables-white I found random places with them but in blue an at like 3x the price.







They've been out of stock for ages it feels like.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alvarado*
> 
> Anyone know where I can this: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/professional-series-ax850-ax750-ax650-individually-sleeved-modular-cables-white I found random places with them but in blue an at like 3x the price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They've been out of stock for ages it feels like.


I found these but I you may not want to pay the premium for them.
http://www.moddiy.com/products/Corsair-Power-Supply-Custom-Single-Sleeved-Modular-Cables-%28All-White%29.html
From what I've seen in my searches, they quit manufacturing the single sleeved cables.
I think Seasonic is the OEM manufacturer of Corsair PSUs so that would widen your search options.

You can also have someone sleeve the cables for you. Check these guys out.
http://www.ensourced.net/default.asp?m=0

@Jameswalt1 can vouch for them. They sleeved the cables for his most recent build and did a fantastic job.


----------



## Alvarado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I found these but I you may not want to pay the premium for them.
> http://www.moddiy.com/products/Corsair-Power-Supply-Custom-Single-Sleeved-Modular-Cables-%28All-White%29.html
> I think Seasonic is the OEM manufacturer of Corsair PSUs so that would widen your search options.


Holy crap. Maybe I'll just buy one of the newer PSU an get those "gen 3" sleeved cables that are in stock.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alvarado*
> 
> Holy crap. Maybe I'll just buy one of the newer PSU an get those "gen 3" sleeved cables that are in stock.


I edited my post above if you'd want to reread it.


----------



## Alvarado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I edited my post above if you'd want to reread it.


Thanks for that I'll take a look.


----------



## ZephyrBit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I found these but I you may not want to pay the premium for them.
> http://www.moddiy.com/products/Corsair-Power-Supply-Custom-Single-Sleeved-Modular-Cables-%28All-White%29.html
> From what I've seen in my searches, they quit manufacturing the single sleeved cables.
> I think Seasonic is the OEM manufacturer of Corsair PSUs so that would widen your search options.
> 
> You can also have someone sleeve the cables for you. Check these guys out.
> http://www.ensourced.net/default.asp?m=0
> 
> @Jameswalt1 can vouch for them. They sleeved the cables for his most recent build and did a fantastic job.


VS, CX, CS, GS, (some of) TX, RM, (some of) HX, and AXi are all non-seasonic OEM, mostly CWT or Great Wall.


----------



## PCModderMike

This was my first time sleeving an entire PSU, happy with how it turned out.

__
https://flic.kr/p/13936023278


__
https://flic.kr/p/14119637992


__
https://flic.kr/p/14142731523


__
https://flic.kr/p/14122490555

You'll notice one of the wires isn't threaded through the cable comb in the very corner, and that's because the wire was a double wire and I couldn't fit the pin through the hole in the comb.


----------



## lowfat

You can actually get rid of the double wire. Cut the smaller wire off. The power supply still functions properly without it.

Looks good though either way.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You can actually get rid of the double wire. Cut the smaller wire off. The power supply still functions properly without it.
> 
> Looks good though either way.


Oh sorry I wasn't clear, I actually did remove the double wire, but the pin itself still had a tiny piece of wire left inside of it where it's crimped down that I couldn't remove so that's why it was too large to fit through...guess common sense says well just pry open the pin and remove it, but was afraid I might break it and if I did break it I don't own a crimper or have any pins to do a new one.
But thanks


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You can actually get rid of the double wire. Cut the smaller wire off. The power supply still functions properly without it.
> 
> Looks good though either way.


Hmm. Thinking about this I've been following our Alpenwasser in another place on the subject and am inclined to think we need to consider double wires with a little more care.


----------



## lowfat

I have 5 Silverstone PSUs, all of which run without the double wire. My oldest and most used has been running close to 3 years without any known issue.


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I have 5 Silverstone PSUs, all of which run without the double wire. My oldest and most used has been running close to 3 years without any known issue.


As, of course, most PSUs with modded cable sets obviously have done also.

But how many are being pushed close enough to their operating limits for these cable droop issues to become significant? And if there is graceful degradation going on how long would it actually take to become apparent?

We may say that it's not important because of the turnover of components through upgrading, but how many years would it take to notice hard disk damage or AM3 motherboard circuitry?

If it really isn't significant on any scale at all then fine, but shouldn't we be modding to improve performance rather than to deliberately downgrade it?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> As, of course, most PSUs with modded cable sets obviously have done also.
> 
> But how many are being pushed close enough to their operating limits for these cable droop issues to become significant? And if there is graceful degradation going on how long would it actually take to become apparent?
> 
> We may say that it's not important because of the turnover of components through upgrading, but how many years would it take to notice hard disk damage or AM3 motherboard circuitry?
> 
> If it really isn't significant on any scale at all then fine, but shouldn't we be modding to improve performance rather than to deliberately downgrade it?


Silverstone tech in Taiwan I spoke to told me that it's perfectly fine to remove the second wire without warranty issues OR any loss of performance or safety, it's a non-issue that they just haven't removed.......


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Hey Everyone,

It's been a little while since I last posted in this here thread. Finally got all the stuff I needed to complete my build. Spent a couple hours last night sleeving one of the stock pci-e cables for my Thermaltake Toughpower XT 1375w. Started sleeving each wire individually from the first pci-e to second pci-e 8-pin connector. Not sure if I like how it looks,unsure if it's the 1/8 sleeve or that I don't know how you guys clean up the cables. Here are a couple pictures of my pci-e cable so far.




Tell me what you guys think,should I continue sleeving from the psu to the first pci-e 8-pin individually or sleeve them all together? I have sleeving to sleeve them all together. Have enough sleeve to do from the first pci-e to the second pci-e 8-pin connector as well. I'm just sure if I'm going to like the turn out with each wire sleeved individually or not.









Sincerely,
Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## fakeblood

Some sleeving for my NickelbLack build









http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01472_zpsb684558a.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01473_zpsfbd2050f.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01474_zps7c90ceaa.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01475_zpsf38b649a.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01476_zps7804ba05.jpg.html

Just completed the 8 Pin EPS tonight also. Still have sata and 1 molex 4 pin to do


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> As, of course, most PSUs with modded cable sets obviously have done also.
> 
> But how many are being pushed close enough to their operating limits for these cable droop issues to become significant? And if there is graceful degradation going on how long would it actually take to become apparent?
> 
> We may say that it's not important because of the turnover of components through upgrading, but how many years would it take to notice hard disk damage or AM3 motherboard circuitry?
> 
> If it really isn't significant on any scale at all then fine, but shouldn't we be modding to improve performance rather than to deliberately downgrade it?


Alpenwasser was answering the question "why are their double wires?". All he is actually saying is that he recognises them as rudimentary impedance sensors based on Kelvin's bridge method. He does not claim to be any kind of expert on the subject. He states that he doesn't know if removing them causes any problems. He doesn't suggest any damage or degradation will be caused, these are words you have introduced.

The fact is that the ATX PSU specifications allow for 5% voltage droop and ripple amplitude of 0.1%. With quality modern switching PSUs that is unlikely, with or without any voltage correction. Especially modular power supplies where the cables can be replaced cannot be designed to rely on impedance sensors to stay within spec. Nowadays double wires and caps are just there to help the units score higher on reviews (and sometimes can help with coil whine).

You can try it yourself with a multimeter. Measure any 12V at idle, and any 12V line at full load. If you measure under 11.4V then you can come back here and let us know which PSU to avoid


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You can try it yourself with a multimeter. Measure any 12V at idle, and any 12V line at full load. If you measure under 11.4V then you can come back here and let us know which PSU to avoid


Is 11.4 the low? I get shut down, occasionally, and when watching GPU-Z or HWBot info, it shows the 12v dropping to 11.7 before the shut down on average. At the shutdown, it is sudden and I haven't measured the rails yet. I do split every aspect of power over 2 PSUs, running a Ti Classy, 750Ti and the plx chip for my board on one 1350w PSU, while the 24 pin, 8 pin and Other Ti Classy are on the 1500w PSU.

I have an RMA set up for the 1500w right now, as the gpu shows that the cards on the 1350 are not lower below 12.3v when the shutdown occurs.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Is 11.4 the low? I get shut down, occasionally, and when watching GPU-Z or HWBot info, it shows the 12v dropping to 11.7 before the shut down on average. At the shutdown, it is sudden and I haven't measured the rails yet. I do split every aspect of power over 2 PSUs, running a Ti Classy, 750Ti and the plx chip for my board on one 1350w PSU, while the 24 pin, 8 pin and Other Ti Classy are on the 1500w PSU.
> 
> I have an RMA set up for the 1500w right now, as the gpu shows that the cards on the 1350 are not lower below 12.3v when the shutdown occurs.


11.4V is 95% of 12V, it's the low for the ATX PSU specification, i.e. it's what the components are designed for at worst.

It's really nothing to do with when your PSU shuts itself down. The logic circuitry for that could be based on all kinds of things apart from voltage.

Also, are your PSUs recommended to work together in parallel?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Also, are your PSUs recommended to work together in parallel?


Ummm... I don't know. They are both Enermax MaxRevo series.


----------



## tinus93

They came







! Took 8 days of shipping with a weekend and a holiday inbetween them. The pins are for testing because they were really cheap. Good quality so far and will come back once they are used.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Sorry for the bad pictures. I just received these 8 pins in. I know a few are for pci and 8 pin CPU... But they look different than I was expecting.



Pci, I can figure out. These are pci:



But, which is which out of the last two sets? I haven't paid enough attention, and am currently at work, to know the difference between these two.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Sorry for the bad pictures. I just received these 8 pins in. I know a few are for pci and 8 pin CPU... But they look different than I was expecting.


PCIe 8-pin are proprietary and have an extra bit of plastic between two of the pins, see http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#pciexpress8 Then scroll up on that page for a picture of the 8-pin EPS (CPU).


----------



## Wolfsbora

Ok everyone, I've followed this thread for a long time. I still can't figure out what the best brand and type of sleeving to go with. I'm prepared to take the leap but just need a nudge... Suggestions?


----------



## tinus93

Can't go wrong with trying 550 paracord or MDPC.


----------



## RobieM625

Hey everybody this is my first attempt at sleeving as well as posting to a forum. So I am sure I will do something wrong while posting. I am going to attach some pics let me know what you guys think of my first sleeving job. All feedback good or bad is welcomed. Thanks


----------



## duckweedpb7

uh for a first time that looks awesome! Solid work!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Ok everyone, I've followed this thread for a long time. I still can't figure out what the best brand and type of sleeving to go with. I'm prepared to take the leap but just need a nudge... Suggestions?


I've tried both paracord and MDPC-X plastic style sleeve and prefer MDPC-X style. MDPC-X is a bit expensive but have a huge variety of colors and the quality is the best around. A very good alternative to MDPC-X is Lutro0-Customs Teleios sleeve. Lutro0 quality is right up there with MDPC-X, is a bit cheaper, and is shipped from the US instead of Germany like MDPC-X. If Lutro0 had orange Teleios, I'd only buy from him, but it's still in development stages, so I'm forced to buy from MDPC-X

And Robie, that is amazing work for your first attempt. Great work


----------



## RobieM625

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duckweedpb7*
> 
> uh for a first time that looks awesome! Solid work!


Thanks for the vote of confidence. I am hereby dubbing that as the extension from Hell. This sleeving thing has one hell of a learning curve!!!!


----------



## RobieM625

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I've tried both paracord and MDPC-X plastic style sleeve and prefer MDPC-X style. MDPC-X is a bit expensive but have a huge variety of colors and the quality is the best around. A very good alternative to MDPC-X is Lutro0-Customs Teleios sleeve. Lutro0 quality is right up there with MDPC-X, is a bit cheaper, and is shipped from the US instead of Germany like MDPC-X. If Lutro0 had orange Teleios, I'd only buy from him, but it's still in development stages, so I'm forced to buy from MDPC-X
> 
> And Robie, that is amazing work for your first attempt. Great work


Thank you kind sir. It is not quite where I want it but I think I finally have the crimper down to where it will make all the difference.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinus93*
> 
> Can't go wrong with trying 550 paracord or MDPC.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I've tried both paracord and MDPC-X plastic style sleeve and prefer MDPC-X style. MDPC-X is a bit expensive but have a huge variety of colors and the quality is the best around. A very good alternative to MDPC-X is Lutro0-Customs Teleios sleeve. Lutro0 quality is right up there with MDPC-X, is a bit cheaper, and is shipped from the US instead of Germany like MDPC-X. If Lutro0 had orange Teleios, I'd only buy from him, but it's still in development stages, so I'm forced to buy from MDPC-X


It is looking like MDPC-X or possibly Lutro0-Customs Teleios... Now to figure out what colors to choose, that may ultimately determine which brand to use. Thanks for the responses!

Meant to say I threw you guys some rep!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Some sleeving for my NickelbLack build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just completed the 8 Pin EPS tonight also. Still have sata and 1 molex 4 pin to do


All black ftw. I love seeing single colour builds done nicely.









As for sleeving, I personably use MDPC-X, I prefer the colour shades they offer plus I like their high quality black hardware.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> All black ftw. I love seeing single colour builds done nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for sleeving, I personably use MDPC-X, I prefer the colour shades they offer plus I like their high quality black hardware.


I agree, <3 MDPC, however the Teleios stuff is top notch.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> All black ftw. I love seeing single colour builds done nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for sleeving, I personably use MDPC-X, I prefer the colour shades they offer plus I like their high quality black hardware.


I'm thinking that black is the way to go, or a black and gray combo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> I agree, <3 MDPC, however the Teleios stuff is top notch.


MDPC-X is taking it with a pretty clean sweep. Unless Teleios kicks me with a knife wielding boot, Roadhouse style, I may have to go with MDPC.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I'm thinking that black is the way to go, or a black and gray combo.
> MDPC-X is taking it with a pretty clean sweep. Unless Teleios kicks me with a knife wielding boot, Roadhouse style, I may have to go with MDPC.


Honestly you cant go wrong with either one, MDPC does have more colors but we are working on getting more but they take a while to get them perfect.

Main difference between the two is the weave and diameter. Teleios is denser with a smaller weave so you dont need to stretch it as much to get awesome coverage.

The second thing to keep in mind is preference some just like to work with one or the other.

I will say that if you are planning on using 16awg wire go with our LC Crimper as we mill it to work with 16awg better.

Happy sleeving, feel free to shoot me a pm with any questions you may have.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Honestly you cant go wrong with either one, MDPC does have more colors but we are working on getting more but they take a while to get them perfect.
> 
> Main difference between the two is the weave and diameter. Teleios is denser with a smaller weave so you dont need to stretch it as much to get awesome coverage.
> 
> The second thing to keep in mind is preference some just like to work with one or the other.
> 
> I will say that if you are planning on using 16awg wire go with our LC Crimper as we mill it to work with 16awg better.
> 
> Happy sleeving, feel free to shoot me a pm with any questions you may have.


You may have just given me the roundhouse boot-knife kick I needed to sway me. Thanks for the response! I'm going to pm you with some questions right now.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Is 11.4 the low? I get shut down, occasionally, and when watching GPU-Z or HWBot info, it shows the 12v dropping to 11.7 before the shut down on average. At the shutdown, it is sudden and I haven't measured the rails yet. I do split every aspect of power over 2 PSUs, running a Ti Classy, 750Ti and the plx chip for my board on one 1350w PSU, while the 24 pin, 8 pin and Other Ti Classy are on the 1500w PSU.
> 
> I have an RMA set up for the 1500w right now, as the gpu shows that the cards on the 1350 are not lower below 12.3v when the shutdown occurs.


I've always made sure that ALL motherboard power connectors (including PLX chip) are from ONE psu only, and use the second psu as needed for GPUs and fans/pumps if needed. Just my


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I've always made sure that ALL motherboard power connectors (including PLX chip) are from ONE psu only, and use the second psu as needed for GPUs and fans/pumps if needed. Just my


Will make sure to keep that in mind. Thanks for the advice.


----------



## Majorhi

Well I finally got the 24 pin cable sleeved. Not too bad looking for my first go at a 24 pin cable. I did have a casualty though..the last wire was a double and well..snap. I busted the stealth comb. It was the only double wire I had.


----------



## tinus93

Slowely it's getting there. Only thing left to do is the 3 double wires on the 24 pin, the 8pin EPS and the PCI-e cables.


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Hiya Everyone,

Well I have completed one of my pci-e cables for my Thermaltake Toughpower XT 1375w. It's nowhere near the quality of what a lot of you guy's do. But it's the first time I ever did individual wire sleeving. I need to either buy some combs from Lutro0 or I'm going to have to use zip ties. Not sure how many combs I would need as I haven't done the second pci-e cable or the other cables which I plan to make myself. Anyways,here are some pictures of what I've done. All connectors have been replaced with UV reactive ones as well.









I could probably lose two of the double wires for the 6+2-pin as the +2 isn't needed for my graphics cards. Also not to happy that the black covered wires appear darker than the yellow covered wires. Probably should have used 1/4 inch sleeving instead of 1/8 inch. Well let me know what you all think.

Sincerely,
Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## morencyam

For the pins that have the double wires, I would pull a single piece of heatsrink over both pieces of sleeve so you don't have the exposed wires at the end like you do know.

What sleeve are you using?


----------



## kingchris




----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> For the pins that have the double wires, I would pull a single piece of heatsrink over both pieces of sleeve so you don't have the exposed wires at the end like you do know.
> 
> What sleeve are you using?


I thought about that after I had already finished. lol My mind is all over the place right now. But I honestly don't mind having the little bit of exposed wires showing. My front panel wires also have a little bit of exposed wires showing,although each wire isn't sleeved individually. I kind of like having a little bit of exposed wires,keeps a little bit of that electronics look. I'm still not sure if I want to go the individually sleeved wire look as they won't look as top notch as many of your guy's cases. I don't know how to go about running perfectly (or close too) parallel sleeved wires. I may just end re-sleeving them all together like they come stock,IDK. At this point I just want to get it finished as I've been working on this build for nearly two years now. As for the sleeving I used,it's Techflex PET sleeving.

Sincerely,
Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Okay, okay... This is harder than I thought. What about these options:


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Okay, okay... This is harder than I thought. What about these options:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I really dig the second set, I'm a big fan of sleeving patterns that are not symmetrical.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I'm also a bit partial to the second one too, so I may just pull the trigger and go with that one.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Happy sleeving, feel free to shoot me a pm with any questions you may have.


Wanted to let you know that I PM'd you a couple of days ago.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> You may have just given me the roundhouse boot-knife kick I needed to sway me. Thanks for the response! I'm going to pm you with some questions right now.


Glad I could help!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> Hiya Everyone,
> 
> Well I have completed one of my pci-e cables for my Thermaltake Toughpower XT 1375w. It's nowhere near the quality of what a lot of you guy's do. But it's the first time I ever did individual wire sleeving. I need to either buy some combs from Lutro0 or I'm going to have to use zip ties. Not sure how many combs I would need as I haven't done the second pci-e cable or the other cables which I plan to make myself. Anyways,here are some pictures of what I've done. All connectors have been replaced with UV reactive ones as well.
> 
> I could probably lose two of the double wires for the 6+2-pin as the +2 isn't needed for my graphics cards. Also not to happy that the black covered wires appear darker than the yellow covered wires. Probably should have used 1/4 inch sleeving instead of 1/8 inch. Well let me know what you all think.
> 
> Sincerely,
> Wolf_Fangs1381


3 combs per cable is what most people use.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*


Looks great you may want to try some sewing or some combs.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> I thought about that after I had already finished. lol My mind is all over the place right now. But I honestly don't mind having the little bit of exposed wires showing. My front panel wires also have a little bit of exposed wires showing,although each wire isn't sleeved individually. I kind of like having a little bit of exposed wires,keeps a little bit of that electronics look. I'm still not sure if I want to go the individually sleeved wire look as they won't look as top notch as many of your guy's cases. I don't know how to go about running perfectly (or close too) parallel sleeved wires. I may just end re-sleeving them all together like they come stock,IDK. At this point I just want to get it finished as I've been working on this build for nearly two years now. As for the sleeving I used,it's Techflex PET sleeving.
> 
> Sincerely,
> Wolf_Fangs1381


Were did you get the techflex? You may want to try furryletters on ebay for a cheap source.


----------



## RobieM625

Ok guys here it is installed. please let me know what ya think. Next I have to figure out the USB cable header any suggestions? I did read i=within this thread that extensions are made for these has anyone used an extension for these? While I am at it I want to thank Mike at Lutro0 customs for helping out so much.


----------



## Pimphare

Looks great RobieM!! Very nice and uniform.


----------



## RobieM625

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Looks great RobieM!! Very nice and uniform.


Thanks P, its a work in progress I am learning as I go. Its a slow process, but I having fun doing it.


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> 3 combs per cable is what most people use.
> 
> Were did you get the techflex? You may want to try fuzzyletters on ebay for a cheap source.


Hello Lutro0,

That is exactly what I figured for each of my cables last night when I was browsing your website. I do have a question about them that I've been curious about,will you be offering them in other colors in the future (red,blue,yellow,orange,etc)?

I purchased all my Techflex sleeving from Performance-PCs. How would I go about finding fuzzyletters on ebay? I don't ebay much and every time I go on the website has changed. lol

Sincerely,
Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> Hello Lutro0,
> 
> That is exactly what I figured for each of my cables last night when I was browsing your website. I do have a question about them that I've been curious about,will you be offering them in other colors in the future (red,blue,yellow,orange,etc)?
> 
> I purchased all my Techflex sleeving from Performance-PCs. How would I go about finding fuzzyletters on ebay? I don't ebay much and every time I go on the website has changed. lol
> 
> Sincerely,
> Wolf_Fangs1381


IIRC, it's actually furryletters. Just Google search "furryletters eBay"


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> IIRC, it's actually furryletters. Just Google search "furryletters eBay"


My bad I haven't ordered from him in a while, if he still lists his phone number on is listings i suggest calling him for a better deal.

he is a great guy to work with, thanks for the correction.

Techflex clean cut is what you are looking for, it comes in black or gray


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> My bad I haven't ordered from him in a while, if he still lists his phone number on is listings i suggest calling him for a better deal.
> 
> he is a great guy to work with, thanks for the correction.
> 
> Techflex clean cut is what you are looking for, it comes in black or gray


Only reason I know that is because I just looked him up not to long ago. And he does still list his phone number


----------



## kingchris

thanks L., i do need some of them cable combs







but i have run out of money to finish this build









back to sawing


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobieM625*
> 
> Next I have to figure out the USB cable header any suggestions? I did read i=within this thread that extensions are made for these has anyone used an extension for these?


I bought a low profile usb 3.0 extension cable that I planned to plasti dip, but it started throwing errors almost immediately.

 

Kind of turned me off on the whole extension idea so I picked up a low profile connector and I plan to make my own.


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> IIRC, it's actually furryletters. Just Google search "furryletters eBay"


Hey Morencyam,

Thank you very much for the correction. I went on ebay right after I posted last but came up empty. I will definitely look into it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> he is a great guy to work with, thanks for the correction.
> 
> Techflex clean cut is what you are looking for, it comes in black or gray


Hey Lutro0,

I need more variety than just black and gray! lol Right now my current build has a black and red theme going. But I have an older mid tower case that I plan upgrading and doing custom sleeving. Not sure what color theme I'll go with though. That's later on down the road. But I do find that the Techflex PET sleeving can be cleanly cut. About 99% of my sleeving was cleanly cut. But I recommend using a lighter or electrical torch after you cut it when done sleeving. Helps keep the end from fraying.

Sincerely,
Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## ZephyrBit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I bought a low profile usb 3.0 extension cable that I planned to plasti dip, but it *started throwing errors almost immediately*.
> 
> Kind of turned me off on the whole extension idea so I picked up a low profile connector and I plan to make my own.


There is obvious damage to the connector...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## kingchris

folded, ordered some combs


----------



## kingchris

well that just took a few hours, thankfully only doing the one sata cable


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> well that just took a few hours, thankfully only doing the one sata cable
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nicely done! I'm going to be doing some sata cable work soon. Do you have any leads on where I can score some 180° sata and sata power connectors? I'm wanting to make them from scratch to just the right length for good cable management.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZephyrBit*
> 
> There is obvious damage to the connector...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


... Yeah... On the plus side, I'm not that stupid. The damage wasn't there when it was throwing errors. I had been thinking to reuse the connectors on the cable and had started deconstructing it, but the connectors were cheap junk so I bought new ones. I had just plugged it back in later to take an example picture of the low profile connector.


----------



## kingchris

MODDIY.COM is a good place to start, they have a good selection of connectors


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> MODDIY.COM is a good place to start, they have a good selection of connectors


The only thing that turns me off about them is they're located in China. How long does it take for deliveries to reach the U.S. on average?


----------



## kingchris

dont know on that takes just over a week to oz. so i would say prop a couple over to you!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> My bad I haven't ordered from him in a while, if he still lists his phone number on is listings i suggest calling him for a better deal.
> 
> he is a great guy to work with, thanks for the correction.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Nicely done! I'm going to be doing some sata cable work soon. Do you have any leads on where I can score some 180° sata and sata power connectors? I'm wanting to make them from scratch to just the right length for good cable management.


We carry both, the 180s that use the push on inline clip are called pass-through sata power

Otherwise if you are looking for the crimp on sata power (which i recommend) then it will be called sata power crimp style


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> We carry both, the 180s that use the push on inline clip are called pass-through sata power
> 
> Otherwise if you are looking for the crimp on sata power (which i recommend) then it will be called sata power crimp style


Yeah I looked at them last night. I forgot you had them. Thank you sir!


----------



## Pimphare

Does anyone know where I can find a psu pin-out diagram for a *XFX Pro Series 850W Black Edition 80 Plus Certified Gold* psu?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207028



18 pin +10 pin psu side. 24 pin mobo side.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can find a psu pin-out diagram for a *XFX Pro Series 850W Black Edition 80 Plus Certified Gold* psu?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207028
> 
> 
> 
> 18 pin +10 pin psu side. 24 pin mobo side.


Have a look at the *SeaSonic X-Series KM3 series* pin-out, it should be the same but double check it anyway.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Have a look at the *SeaSonic X-Series KM3 series* pin-out, it should be the same but double check it anyway.


I believe you're right. Everything I've searched for seems to point to SeaSonic. Thank you sir! +1rep


----------



## Majorhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> With some work and by stagering the sleeving you can do something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can simply turn it into an 8pin pcie and bring the wires from the PSU and/or use the double wire method:


Do I tap into the same 6 wires on the 8 pin that the other connector uses? And do I need to use the other 2 wires? Gonna do the double wire method. Thanks


----------



## luciddreamer124

I'd just like to give a shout out @Lutro0 . I recently ordered some sleeving, and I forgot to add on some extra ATX pins and connectors. I emailed them and asked if I could have them added on to my order. The next day, they emailed back saying they would add them on for free! Thanks again for great service


----------



## ixsis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> I'd just like to give a shout out @Lutro0 . I recently ordered some sleeving, and I forgot to add on some extra ATX pins and connectors. I emailed them and asked if I could have them added on to my order. The next day, they emailed back saying they would add them on for free! Thanks again for great service


Like you, I can't say enough good things about Lutro0 and his shop. I've now had two very positive orders with him and I can tell you I will be spending much more money for his products moving forward. I hate to say it but I think its safe (and a bit sad) to say I'll likely not be getting anymore nice international shipping envelopes from Germany with sleeving in them.

...now if only Lutro0 could start drawing little cartoons on the packaging.....


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ixsis*
> 
> Like you, I can't say enough good things about Lutro0 and his shop. I've now had two very positive orders with him and I can tell you I will be spending much more money for his products moving forward. I hate to say it but I think its safe (and a bit sad) to say I'll likely not be getting anymore nice international shipping envelopes from Germany with sleeving in them.
> 
> *...now if only Lutro0 could start drawing little cartoons on the packaging.....*


HAHA so much this!!


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

I emailed Lutro0 a few days back. I had not received a shipping confirmation and couldn't find my receipt anywhere, but I could see the charge on my debit account. I just wanted to see where my items were in the grand scheme of shipping.

They came in that afternoon, so I immediately fired an email back letting them know, and they apologized for taking so long, and not letting me know where there package was, so they were going to send freebies. I have never received customer service like that. I wasn't and don't want freebies in life, but will never complain about them. I will be placing another order very soon, and will make sure to use Lutro0 due to the customer service experience.


----------



## Majorhi

I like ordering from Lutro0. I've made 4 orders from him in the past month. Even when there was a hiccup with shipping I was notified and all is well.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Does anyone here have any visual examples of extended cable configurations for a Titan? ...and if you stuck with the dual 4-pin molexes on the 6-pin terminal, and the dual 6-pin on the 8-pin. They seem like such horrid choices rather than do direct 6-pin and 8-pin PCIe connections with the PSU.


----------



## Tracti

Is there a pin out anywhere to get the cables right, having trouble finding one
Thanks


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tracti*
> 
> Is there a pin out anywhere to get the cables right, having trouble finding one
> Thanks


Check this out:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1420796/repository-of-power-supply-pin-outs

It's maintained by @Big Elf.


----------



## RobieM625

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobieM625*
> 
> Ok guys here it is installed. please let me know what ya think. Next I have to figure out the USB cable header any suggestions? I did read i=within this thread that extensions are made for these has anyone used an extension for these? While I am at it I want to thank Mike at Lutro0 customs for helping out so much.


Hello again everyone. I am still new to this posting thing so if quoting my own post or reusing pics already posted is wrong let me know. My new question is I am thinking about just making extensions for both end of each cable and hiding the OEM wires in the back. Has anyone used this method before and do you guys think there will be a serious loss in performance with double extensions? Thanks for the help.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobieM625*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RobieM625*
> 
> Ok guys here it is installed. please let me know what ya think. Next I have to figure out the USB cable header any suggestions? I did read i=within this thread that extensions are made for these has anyone used an extension for these? While I am at it I want to thank Mike at Lutro0 customs for helping out so much.
> 
> snip
> 
> 
> 
> Hello again everyone. I am still new to this posting thing so if quoting my own post or reusing pics already posted is wrong let me know. My new question is I am thinking about just making extensions for both end of each cable and hiding the OEM wires in the back. Has anyone used this method before and do you guys think there will be a serious loss in performance with double extensions? Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...

As long as the extensions are well made (and you're not overclocking to the max) you should be OK. I use a similar method for my 'Black Noise' 24 Pin to get a neater look and don't have any problems right up to about 5.2GHz


----------



## RobieM625

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> As long as the extensions are well made (and you're not overclocking to the max) you should be OK. I use a similar method for my 'Black Noise' 24 Pin to get a neater look and don't have any problems right up to about 5.2GHz


Thanks Elf. I bought Lutro0's modified crimper and I am really getting the hang of it the crimps come out darn near perfect everytime. The first crimper I bought and tried to recrimp the 24 pin connector on a partial modular power supply really messed it up and I kind of got discouraged until i regrouped and started using Lutro0's stuff. So I am pretty confident now with the new extensions. Plus when I tested the extension with a power supply tester the voltages were perfect.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> I'd just like to give a shout out @Lutro0 . I recently ordered some sleeving, and I forgot to add on some extra ATX pins and connectors. I emailed them and asked if I could have them added on to my order. The next day, they emailed back saying they would add them on for free! Thanks again for great service


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ixsis*
> 
> Like you, I can't say enough good things about Lutro0 and his shop. I've now had two very positive orders with him and I can tell you I will be spending much more money for his products moving forward. I hate to say it but I think its safe (and a bit sad) to say I'll likely not be getting anymore nice international shipping envelopes from Germany with sleeving in them.
> 
> ...now if only Lutro0 could start drawing little cartoons on the packaging.....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I emailed Lutro0 a few days back. I had not received a shipping confirmation and couldn't find my receipt anywhere, but I could see the charge on my debit account. I just wanted to see where my items were in the grand scheme of shipping.
> 
> They came in that afternoon, so I immediately fired an email back letting them know, and they apologized for taking so long, and not letting me know where there package was, so they were going to send freebies. I have never received customer service like that. I wasn't and don't want freebies in life, but will never complain about them. I will be placing another order very soon, and will make sure to use Lutro0 due to the customer service experience.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majorhi*
> 
> I like ordering from Lutro0. I've made 4 orders from him in the past month. Even when there was a hiccup with shipping I was notified and all is well.


I cant tell you how happy it makes me to see some positive feedback from you guys, we have been going through a ton of issues due to our last shipper, and are still trying to catch up on all of our orders. We are really close but I hate to see people wait for their orders.

We sadly do make mistakes like everyone else, even more so when we are rushing this hard to get caught up - but we make it a principle to make our mistakes right. I believe every business should operate like that. We are 4 likes from hitting 12k on our facebook which is a huge milestone for us and we are running a contest if you have made an order recently in the last week or are going to make one here soon.

Thanks again for such kind words and as always for the support, we started out with just me selling extensions, my sleeving tool, and doing videos and now we are sending products all over the world and doing tons of custom work. We would not be where we are if it wasn't for you guys!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majorhi*
> 
> Do I tap into the same 6 wires on the 8 pin that the other connector uses? And do I need to use the other 2 wires? Gonna do the double wire method. Thanks


If its just two six pins, yes you just use the same ones - and no you dont need the other two wires as they are extra grounds that 8pin PCIE cables use - you could use them to reduce the ammount of double wires however. But the double wire method would work just fine for this.

This method (in the pic) requires some very thin wire and very thin sleeving (like kobra sleeving) and a ton of paitence - so if you are using anything else I would do the double wire method. I hope that helps!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobieM625*
> 
> Thanks Elf. I bought Lutro0's modified crimper and I am really getting the hang of it the crimps come out darn near perfect everytime. The first crimper I bought and tried to recrimp the 24 pin connector on a partial modular power supply really messed it up and I kind of got discouraged until i regrouped and started using Lutro0's stuff. So I am pretty confident now with the new extensions. Plus when I tested the extension with a power supply tester the voltages were perfect.


I am glad to hear that about the crimper. We just recently have been fine tuning allot of our products even more. The crimper being one of those - I beleive I now have it perfectly milled each time for larger 16awg wire as well as thin 18awg wire. Ontop of that we have fine tuned the fan and smaller terminal side of the crimper to crimper it perfectly without crushing.

The biggest issues I have seen with crimpers is the crushing and sheering off of one side of the terminal with 16awg wire (even on the mdpc crimper) and crushing of the smaller terminal side (again with the mdpc crimper) I sat down for a whole day and burnt up about 25 dies to fine tune it more and lock down our mills so they are set perfectly.

I am glad to hear that that time and all those dies was not wasted hahah!


----------



## ixsis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> ---. We are 4 likes from hitting 12k on our facebook which is a huge ...:


Just gave you number 11,999 so you're only one short!


----------



## Big Elf

I just did 12,000


----------



## RobieM625

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ixsis*
> 
> Just gave you number 11,999 so you're only one short!


Whoo Hoo I was number 12,000


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobieM625*
> 
> Whoo Hoo I was number 12,000


Hmm. Shows 11405 on my phone.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I really dig the second set, I'm a big fan of sleeving patterns that are not symmetrical.


I've been looking your Parvum Titanfall sleeving pattern over, and I'm kind of liking it a little better... Substituting the orange for B-Magic blue.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Just wanting some feedback on my colors. I like it but worried things will start looking too busy when i get to my 24pin connector. I do have to say that this Teleios sleeving was a joy to work with. I've used MDPC, Techflex whatever brand comes on corsairs custom sleeved PSU cables. This was by far the best to work with.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I've been looking your Parvum Titanfall sleeving pattern over, and I'm kind of liking it a little better... Substituting the orange for B-Magic blue.


With what motherboard?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Is there a paracord that kinda matches the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 blades?

Need a neutral colour to break up all the black


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Is there a paracord that kinda matches the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 blades?
> 
> Need a neutral colour to break up all the black


Take a look at www.paracordplanet.com . I used a gray color from them that'd probably work well. Can't remember the name though. They have tons of colors to choose from.

#550 nylon paracord

Charcoal gray


Gunmetal gray


Silver gray


#550 Polyester paracord

Smoke


Edit: now that I think of it, I used the charcoal gray but it doesn't look that dark in person. I'm wondering if they sent me the wrong color.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Take a look at www.paracordplanet.com . I used a gray color from them that'd probably work well. Can't remember the name though. They have tons of colors to choose from.
> 
> #550 nylon paracord
> 
> Charcoal gray
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gunmetal gray
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Silver gray
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #550 Polyester paracord
> 
> Smoke
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: now that I think of it, I used the charcoal gray but it doesn't look that dark in person. I'm wondering if they sent me the wrong color.


Ah ok thanks I'll have a look









The Teleios Gray that Lutro0 has seems to be pretty close judging from the pics, does anyone know if it is close? not that I like pet, I find it harder to work with then paracord


----------



## Pimphare

@Lutro0

Is the 5th wire on the sata connectors for daisy chaining purposes?


Also, do you have the stealth cable combs in stock?


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Is the 5th wire on the sata connectors for daisy chaining purposes?


It's the 3.3v wire. 12v, 5v, 3.3v and ground (x2) are all represented on the connector although the 3.3v is very rarely if at all used these days. I think you only need the 12v wire for 3.5" mechanical hard drive motors.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> @Lutro0
> 
> Is the 5th wire on the sata connectors for daisy chaining purposes?
> 
> 
> Also, do you have the stealth cable combs in stock?


What BE said, and we always have them in stock - does it show otherwise?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> With what motherboard?


The R4BE mobo. Everything on the inside of my case is black, except for those blue frozen midplates, white exhaust fan, and white flow indicators up front.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> What BE said, and we always have them in stock - does it show otherwise?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> It's the 3.3v wire. 12v, 5v, 3.3v and ground (x2) are all represented on the connector although the 3.3v is very rarely if at all used these days. I think you only need the 12v wire for 3.5" mechanical hard drive motors.


Thanks guys! @Lutro I suppose they're in stock then.


----------



## RobieM625

Hello Everyone here is my latest. This has been the most challenging extension yet. I had to cut each wire at different lenths in order to get the extension to come straight out of the PSU then twist and go vertically up the back of the case. Any feedback or suggestions is greatly appreciated thanks. Back to Lutro0 for more supplies


----------



## RobieM625

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Just wanting some feedback on my colors. I like it but worried things will start looking too busy when i get to my 24pin connector. I do have to say that this Teleios sleeving was a joy to work with. I've used MDPC, Techflex whatever brand comes on corsairs custom sleeved PSU cables. This was by far the best to work with.


Stunt, I think it looks awesome and the sleeved 24 pin connectors just add to the overall look IMHO. I dont have any experience using other sleeving but the Teleios is super easy to work with. I did find a bit of a difference between the white and blue. The white seems to fray a bit easier and doesnt seem to stretch as much as the blue. But that could just be me.


----------



## RobieM625

Ok like I said in a previous post I am new to this forum thing. I tried to use the spoiler alert in the previous post but I did something wrong.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

@Lutro0

I've been looking for some cable combs, but that minimum order of $20 dollars is killing me. Do you know if FrozenCPU will get any in stock soon? They only have the 4pin clear ones atm.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Coz I'm unimaginative I'm gonna steal one of Lutro0s sleeving designs











Just wanna make sure I got the colours right, its black, dark gray & gray isnt it?

Also what 16AWG wire for shrinkless, I'm a bit confused coz theres custom & standard









Thanks


----------



## charliebrown

ok so i just moved and im buying another 770 to sli but my extra pci-e cables were lost in the move where do i get replacements i have a ocz 850w i know toshiba bought them i went to the site all i see is ssd products so do i have to make my own or do any of you guys know where i can get some


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> ok so i just moved and im buying another 770 to sli but my extra pci-e cables were lost in the move where do i get replacements i have a ocz 850w i know toshiba bought them i went to the site all i see is ssd products so do i have to make my own or do any of you guys know where i can get some


Toshiba only bought the Flash memory side of the company. They have nothing to do with the PSU side. Another sub par PSU maker purchased the PSU devision which I cannot remember the name of right now.

As far as new cables. Try moddiy.com


----------



## fantasticgcg

Hey fairly new to this my question is how do you go about sleeving the molex connectors on a Ax1200i? the cables seem pretty flat
and also the front panel connectors on a 900d
thanks


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fantasticgcg*
> 
> Hey fairly new to this my question is how do you go about sleeving the molex connectors on a Ax1200i? the cables seem pretty flat
> and also the front panel connectors on a 900d
> thanks


Start by reading the Frequently Asked Questions thread


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> @Lutro0
> 
> I've been looking for some cable combs, but that minimum order of $20 dollars is killing me. Do you know if FrozenCPU will get any in stock soon? They only have the 4pin clear ones atm.


We are sending a new batch out this week! Also sorry for the minimum, if we dont have one up we get 90 small orders a day which for a small shop gets us behind pretty fast. I lower it from time to time when we get caught up but right now we are looking for a new shipper and orders are going out a little later then usual.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Coz I'm unimaginative I'm gonna steal one of Lutro0s sleeving designs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanna make sure I got the colours right, its black, dark gray & gray isnt it?
> 
> Also what 16AWG wire for shrinkless, I'm a bit confused coz theres custom & standard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Yup you got those colors right.

16awg standard is what I use personally for sleeving extensions its the thickest you can go while still being able to crimp, however it is very hard to get the wire bundle into the terminal because of its size which is why I offer 16awg custom which is still 16awg but its a custom diameter which makes it a bit easier to use. We will actually be discontinuing our 16awg standard line and only carry the 16awg custom here very soon.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Yup you got those colors right.
> 
> 16awg standard is what I use personally for sleeving extensions its the thickest you can go while still being able to crimp, however it is very hard to get the wire bundle into the terminal because of its size which is why I offer 16awg custom which is still 16awg but its a custom diameter which makes it a bit easier to use. We will actually be discontinuing our 16awg standard line and only carry the 16awg custom here very soon.


Cool







think I'll be stealing that for my build









Ah ok, was a bit confused when I seen 2 different ones with the exact same pics







, think I bought some of the custom 16awg ages ago









Thanks Lutro0


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> We are sending a new batch out this week! Also sorry for the minimum, if we dont have one up we get 90 small orders a day which for a small shop gets us behind pretty fast. I lower it from time to time when we get caught up but right now we are looking for a new shipper and orders are going out a little later then usual.
> .


Alright thanks! I will order them once they come in! Also South Dakota is boring.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Alright thanks! I will order them once they come in! Also South Dakota is *beautiful*.


fixed


----------



## Lutro0

haha it is both boring and beautiful.

Its great for hunting and fishing and other recreation. I go diving for walleye whenever I get the chance.

However when it comes to other things to do it is very very boring.


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> haha it is both boring and beautiful.
> 
> Its great for hunting and fishing and other recreation. I go diving for walleye whenever I get the chance.
> 
> However when it comes to other things to do it is very very boring.


Hunting and recreation are the best here, but when it comes to anything about PC's.......ehhh lol. The biggest pc parts store around me is called PCGold, and the most expensive graphics card they have is the GTX 760, and they have it priced 50 dollars over what it should be.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Hunting and recreation are the best here, but when it comes to anything about PC's.......ehhh lol. The biggest pc parts store around me is called PCGold, and the most expensive graphics card they have is the GTX 760, and they have it priced 50 dollars over what it should be.


Well, Pittsburgh, PA isn't much different for PC parts. The closest we have to a PC part store is Best Buy and they only sell a few of each major component, if that. I need a Micro Center. It smells so wonderful...


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Well, Pittsburgh, PA isn't much different for PC parts. The closest we have to a PC part store is Best Buy and they only sell a few of each major component, if that. I need a Micro Center. It smells so wonderful...


Omg i know! The closest microcenter is in Minneapolis, which is about 3-4 hours away. Last time i visited, i may have dropped 200 bucks on....stuff...


----------



## luciddreamer124

Loving the look of this dark red:



http://imgur.com/StoXiIn




http://imgur.com/yVrPxuS


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> Omg i know! The closest microcenter is in Minneapolis, which is about 3-4 hours away. Last time i visited, i may have dropped 200 bucks on....stuff...


That's the same distance to one for me too! Such crap. Probably a good thing or we'd both be dropping $200 daily! Haha


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> That's the same distance to one for me too! Such crap. Probably a good thing or we'd both be dropping $200 daily! Haha


That's true haha. I am debating if i should stick with my Kraken G10 and H50 or should i get a standard Waterblock.... decisions decisions....


----------



## Wolfsbora

Waterblock for the win!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpIcSnIpErZ23*
> 
> That's true haha. I am debating if i should stick with my Kraken G10 and H50 or should i get a standard Waterblock.... decisions decisions....


Get ready to drop a lot more than $200 once you get bit by the waterbug, lol


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Get ready to drop a lot more than $200 once you get bit by the waterbug, lol


I'm up to a grand now in the planning stages. So many things to choose from!


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> I'm up to a grand now in the planning stages. So many things to choose from!


If you are still in the planning stages, that grand will bloat to even more! That's how it has gone for me. Do you have a build log by chance?


----------



## EpIcSnIpErZ23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Get ready to drop a lot more than $200 once you get bit by the waterbug, lol


I've already been hit







Saved a little bit of money by using the CM Glacer CPU Block/Pump, but yeah.... hahah


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> If you are still in the planning stages, that grand will bloat to even more! That's how it has gone for me. Do you have a build log by chance?


Not as of yet. Really don't know where to begin to start 1. And yes, I'm trying to keep it within a budget but my eyes are wider than my wallet.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> Not as of yet. Really don't know where to begin to start 1. And yes, I'm trying to keep it within a budget but *my eyes are wider than my wallet*.


It is quite easy! Check Out mine. It is fun to keep track of everything and everyone;s feedback really comes in handy!

Btw, what I highlighted in bold is the worst part of this hobby!


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> It is quite easy! Check Out mine. It is fun to keep track of everything and everyone;s feedback really comes in handy!
> 
> Btw, what I highlighted in bold is the worst part of this hobby!


I'll start one tonight!


----------



## kingchris

look what i got today



thanks Lutro0


----------



## Lutro0

Dude! LOL take the paper backing off goober. <3


----------



## abirli

happy belated memorial day

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/rwb_zps2be9f189.jpg.html


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> happy belated memorial day
> 
> http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/rwb_zps2be9f189.jpg.html


Nice... Those are some very vivid color choices. I like it.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Teleios black, dark grey, and dark red in my Mercury S3 build:



http://imgur.com/elpkoRo




http://imgur.com/YiTPEtZ




http://imgur.com/jCWIZGG




http://imgur.com/Ak6YLZF




http://imgur.com/ZUUBv4K




http://imgur.com/uJHBWoC




http://imgur.com/ElNFVG2


----------



## lowfat

Looks good.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Bravo.


----------



## tinus93




----------



## kingchris

nice colours


----------



## Himo5

Has anyone ever sleeved a 24-pin in it's wire colors?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Has anyone ever sleeved a 24-pin in it's wire colors?


Kinda. White for ground, grand bleu 3.3V, b-magic 5V, aqua 12V, grey for control wires. Seemed a good idea at the time, but doesn't look so hot in a black case.


----------



## Himo5

lol. I was thinking of doing a full Black-Red-Orange-Yellow-Blue-Green-Purple-Gray job with all the samples certain people keep on sending me.


----------



## WiSK

I was talking about this idea with Cimator a few months ago. He did a retro build for some friends of his and used UV reactive blue sleeve for the ground wires, and non-UV blue for the other wires. It gave an interesting effect inside the case. I mentioned going old school and doing red/orange/yellow/black, and he said just like you "I was on the idea of sleeving properly the 24 pin cable to the respective colors, including the gray, green, violet wires".

Yet, although we spoke about it, neither of us did it, so you would be the first I believe


----------



## Himo5

I'm going to make it the first sample in this internal lacing project.


----------



## Pheozero

How hard is it to sleeve a AX 850? Starting to think of doing my own custom length cables since you can't really hide anything in a Mercury S5.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> How hard is it to sleeve a AX 850? Starting to think of doing my own custom length cables since you can't really hide anything in a Mercury S5.


The 24pin cables have a lot of double wires which can make it rather hard to sleeve and make look good.


----------



## soulwrath

trying to figure out how to color my red/black theme, should i incorporate white also? or grey? or jsut leave it as red and black?


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulwrath*
> 
> trying to figure out how to color my red/black theme, should i incorporate white also? or grey? or jsut leave it as red and black?


Something like this?


----------



## stickg1

Please give me the encouragement I need to cut my 24pin in half and make it the proper length for my Mercury S3. I've been putting it off for so long yet I have the material to make it happen.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Please give me the encouragement I need to cut my 24pin in half and make it the proper length for my Mercury S3. I've been putting it off for so long yet I have the material to make it happen.


Doooooo iiiiiiiiiit!!!!!!


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Please give me the encouragement I need to cut my 24pin in half and make it the proper length for my Mercury S3. I've been putting it off for so long yet I have the material to make it happen.


Get lutro0's crimper, some atx female pins, and an accurate ruler. Tape the pin on one end of the wire at the zero mark and then measure it out from there. Have a basic idea of how long you need the entire length to be. This is including the connectors going into the sockets. I would then add an extra inch or 2 to give you a little bit of play when plugging things in AND allow you to give a flow to the cables. Heatshirkless method is fun and I enjoy the look of the results. Unless you have TON of patience getting the MDPC-x look may not be for you. Its hard to get all those little pieces of heatshrink exactly in the same spot unless you get lutro0s tool OR repeat ever one until they are all perfect. One of the keys to this is pushing them into the connector while they are still warm from shrinking the heatshrink but not too hot or too cool or it wont work right.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Get lutro0's crimper, some atx female pins, and an accurate ruler. Tape the pin on one end of the wire at the zero mark and then measure it out from there.


I recommend to cut the wire a tiny bit longer, do a crimp on one end, then remeasure. Most mistakes on length come from the moment of crimping, since you can easily push the wire a millimeter more on one crimp than the next crimp.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Please give me the encouragement I need to cut my 24pin in half and make it the proper length for my Mercury S3. I've been putting it off for so long yet I have the material to make it happen.


You and me both bud. Got the materials, just need to muster up the willpower. The double wires and crisscrossing madness....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I recommend to cut the wire a tiny bit longer, do a crimp on one end, then remeasure. Most mistakes on length come from the moment of crimping, since you can easily push the wire a millimeter more on one crimp than the next crimp.


This is what I was trying to figure out last night. I know there'll be a margin of error somewhere in there if you don't account for stripping the wire, crimping, and the part of the wire that goes into the connectors.


----------



## soulwrath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Something like this?


ZOOM OUT! lol


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Please give me the encouragement I need to cut my 24pin in half and make it the proper length for my Mercury S3. I've been putting it off for so long yet I have the material to make it happen.


Do just a single wire at the time so you can get the lengths exact. Pretty easy to cut a wire, crimp on a new connector and reshrinkless sleeve it.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> The 24pin cables have a lot of double wires which can make it rather hard to sleeve and make look good.


Ugh, are there any 1000W power supplies out there that are easy to sleeve?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinus93*


I can only imagine what your build looks like.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> This is what I was trying to figure out last night. I know there'll be a margin of error somewhere in there if you don't account for stripping the wire, crimping, and the part of the wire that goes into the connectors.


Personally, what I do is to measure the insulation after stripping, and ignore the length of the wire itself. When crimping I push the insulation up against the V of the pin. This makes the positioning reproduceable.



I made a video with vague explanation so might as well repost it. With 42 views compared to Lutro0's ten thousands, I need the publicity.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Personally, what I do is to measure the insulation after stripping, and ignore the length of the wire itself. When crimping I push the insulation up against the V of the pin. This makes the positioning reproduceable.
> 
> 
> 
> I made a video with vague explanation so might as well repost it. With 42 views compared to Lutro0's ten thousands, I need the publicity.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's perfect! Thanks for the info. +rep


----------



## tinus93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I can only imagine what your build looks like.


A bit like this








Still a work in progress and I am not happy with the mobo, sleeving and colours


----------



## Big Elf

I'd suggest adding white for contrast/accent instead of the grey


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulwrath*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Something like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> lock.net/content/type/61/id/2026311/width/500/height/1000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ZOOM OUT! lol
Click to expand...

What like this???











It's the best I have right now without taking more pictures. Ignore the blue ram blocks. They will be getting waterblock heatspreaders to replace the blue.

I do have a shot of the PSU side of things though.





This build is still in progress and will be a while until it is finished. However see Evolution build log in my sig if interested.


----------



## soulwrath

i am intrigued but i think i might do something like red/grey/black ? so lets say for the 24 pin right? i would do 1/3 red// 1/3 grey 1/3 black - how does that sound?

also link or pm me your build log pls? i also have the 800D - im thinking of modding the bottom hard drive rack to fit a 240mm rad


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulwrath*
> 
> i am intrigued but i think i might do something like red/grey/black ? so lets say for the 24 pin right? i would do 1/3 red// 1/3 grey 1/3 black - how does that sound?
> 
> also link or pm me your build log pls? i also have the 800D - im thinking of modding the bottom hard drive rack to fit a 240mm rad


Click Here

I used to have a 240mm rad in mine in the lower area but it was just too complicated to run things down there when I used normal tubing. Also was hard when I had acrylic to get things to line up right for my fittings to not break the tube. Took lots of bend attempts.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinus93*
> 
> A bit like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still a work in progress and I am not happy with the mobo, sleeving and colours


If you keep all of the hardware black and use that pattern of colored wires throughout the build, it'll certainly stand out... I'd buy that for a dollar.


----------



## tinus93

Does anyone recognize this connector? It is the power that goes into the speedtouch 6 fan controller. The cable that comes with it is way to long for my liking.
The pins to the left of it are fan headers. Picture comes from here http://www.tech-critter.com/2014/03/unboxing-review-gelid-solutions.html


----------



## Big Elf

While I'm not 100% sure without a more detailed image of the pins they may be JST (Japan Solderless Terminals) BVH-21T-P1.1 which are also used in NZXT Fan Controllers.

I didn't manage to find the connector housings.


----------



## tinus93

No way! A local site stocks these with the corresponding connector!
http://www.conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/740621/JST-BVH-21T-P11-Krimpcontacten-voor-RM-396-mm-serie-VH-Rastermaat-396-mm-Nominale-stroom-10-A-1-stuks crimps
http://www.conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/740448/JST-VHR-2N-Behuizing-RM-396-mm-serie-VH-Rastermaat-396-mm-Aantal-polen-2-Nominale-stroom-10-A-1-stuks Housing

Might order a variety of these to test them out. Rep to you


----------



## stickg1

Crappy picture but I finally got to use my PCIe cables today when I switched out the 750ti for a R9 280x. (primarily for folding performance, gaming performance was just fine on my 750 ti)


----------



## Pheozero

Alright, so I think I've come down between two choices for a new power supply. The Silverstone Strider SST-ST1000-G and the EVGA SuperNOVA 1000G2. Anything I should know about these ones? Double wires? Capacitors?


----------



## lowfat

ST1000G uses 1:1 cables. It has capacitors but they can be cut off. It has 1 double wire but it can be cut off as well.


----------



## Teplous

does anyone know where i can buy the Be Quiet! Silent Wings 2 80mm PWM fans?


----------



## roudabout6

Hello sleevers I got my new EVGA superNOVA 1000w G psu and really want to sleeve it but dont want to mess anything up. I have sleeved some cables from my old psu but they were labled with color yellow black green for example. But the 1000 g ony has black cables so i really need a pinout to even start. Thank you


----------



## Big Elf

Have you looked in the *Repository*?

You'll need a multimeter to identify/double check the PCI-E and CPU/EPS cables.


----------



## roudabout6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Have you looked in the *Repository*?
> 
> You'll need a multimeter to identify/double check the PCI-E and CPU/EPS cables.


Yes but it showing a 24pin 18 and 10 I dont have a 18 or 10 pin


----------



## Big Elf

Can you give me a link to your model?


----------



## ZephyrBit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roudabout6*
> 
> Yes but it showing a 24pin 18 and 10 I dont have a 18 or 10 pin


Check again, its on the PSU side.


----------



## roudabout6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Can you give me a link to your model?


http://www.microcenter.com/product/432310/Super_NOVA_1000G1_1000_Watt_Gold_ATX_12V_Power_Supply


----------



## Big Elf

Looks like there's a fairly substantial difference between your G1 and the G2 version for the 24 pin.


----------



## luciddreamer124

I'm using this PWM splitter, does anyone know how to get the signal to the motherboard? Would you just use an extension with just the sensor wires from one of the 8 ports and run it to the motherboard?


----------



## Big Elf

Do you know if the 4th PWM signal pin on each connector is wired to each of the other 4 pins on the PCB? If so a splitter from the motherboard PWM to one of the 4 pin connectors on the PCB should work. However from what little I can find out about that product it seems that it's only designed to provide power, not a PWM signal. Hopefully I'll be proved wrong about that.

Edit: You could contact *ModMyToys* to ask them.

The *Swiftech PWM Splitter* definitely will work for most PWM fans providing they're not made by Corsair.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Do you know if the 4th PWM signal pin on each connector is wired to each of the other 4 pins on the PCB? If so a splitter from the motherboard PWM to one of the 4 pin connectors on the PCB should work. However from what little I can find out about that product it seems that it's only designed to provide power, not a PWM signal. Hopefully I'll be proved wrong about that.
> 
> Edit: You could contact *ModMyToys* to ask them.
> 
> The *Swiftech PWM Splitter* definitely will work for most PWM fans providing they're not made by Corsair.


Here is the back of the pcb:



I also have the swiftech splitter, but I want to use this one because of the molex ports.


----------



## Big Elf

It looks like you get 12V and Ground fed to every 4 pin header. Each PWM signal pin on each row of 4 x 4 pin headers are connected but not all 8 x 4 pin headers are connected together so I don't think PWM control is likely to work unless, maybe if you use a splitter on one header from each row to the motherboard header. I'm not really sure though so either trying it or contacting ModMyToys might be your best bet.

You can get a Swiftech 8 port splitter with a Molex connector, that's the version I have.

Edit: I think *this* is the version you need for PWM control but then you'd be limited to the maximum safe current you fans can draw from your particular motherboard. I wouldn't feel comfortable connecting 8 fans to one motherboard fan header for power requirements.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> It looks like you get 12V and Ground fed to every 4 pin header. Each PWM signal pin on each row of 4 x 4 pin headers are connected but not all 8 x 4 pin headers are connected together so I don't think PWM control is likely to work unless, maybe if you use a splitter on one header from each row to the motherboard header. I'm not really sure though so either trying it or contacting ModMyToys might be your best bet.
> 
> You can get a Swiftech 8 port splitter with a Molex connector, that's the version I have.
> 
> Edit: I think *this* is the version you need for PWM control but then you'd be limited to the maximum safe current you fans can draw from your particular motherboard. I wouldn't feel comfortable connecting 8 fans to one motherboard fan header for power requirements.


I was thinking the same thing about an extension from each row. Maybe I'll try it.

I was talking about the other molex splitter connections on that PCB that I need, I can probably just convert the SATA power into a molex plug by myself.

I really don't understand that smaller PWM splitter, I just don't get how you're supposed to get power to it (definitely not plugging 8 fans into 1 motherboard header!)


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> I was thinking the same thing about an extension from each row. Maybe I'll try it.
> 
> I was talking about the other molex splitter connections on that PCB that I need, I can probably just convert the SATA power into a molex plug by myself.
> 
> I really don't understand that smaller PWM splitter, I just don't get how you're supposed to get power to it (definitely not plugging 8 fans into 1 motherboard header!)


I took a quick look at those MMT splitters a while ago....
I never ordered because I came to the conclusion that they were just a power distribution pcb board, with no pwm output/input that I saw, only the 4 pin power in.
I could be well and truely wrong but it's what I thought, power only


----------



## DFroN

Great thread which inspired and helped me to sleeve my cables. Here are my results:


I have everything sleeved except the USB3 leads as my case (Fractal R4) has the USB ports glued into the front panel while the other end is the moulded header plug. I might try some Techflex F6 like I used on my cooler tubing, what do you guys think?


Also, I cheated when it came to my PSU cables. After hours of cutting heatshrink, sleeving and swearing while sleeving my front panel and sata cables I decided to just buy the sleeved cables from EVGA. The sleeving on them is very tight and I recommend them to anybody who doesn't want to sit and sleeve their PSU themselves:


While my computer was in bits I took the opportunity to replace my last HDD with another SSD, mounted them all behind he mobo and took the HDD cage out of the case. Looks much cleaner







Death to HDD's!


----------



## ozzy1925

guys,which psu is easier to sleeve :ax 1200-1500i or evga 1300-1600 g2 series?


----------



## ZephyrBit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> guys,which psu is easier to sleeve :ax 1200-1500i or evga 1300-1600 g2 series?


To answer your question, the regular AX1200 (1:1 Pinout). Now to my question, why do you need that kind of power?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZephyrBit*
> 
> To answer your question, the regular AX1200 (1:1 Pinout). Now to my question, why do you need that kind of power?


i am thinking of buying from buy mdpc but i am not sure if i do a perfect job.How is the quality of ready to use sleeve made by corsair?
and answer to your question i do mining with my cards and i like to overkill


----------



## luciddreamer124

Neither of those power supplies have 1:1 pinouts (at least on the 24 pin) , so they will both have double wires I think


----------



## stickg1

Don't they all have double wires? I haven't had one that hasn't. It honestly takes like 5 more minutes to do a double wire. If there's one or two I wouldn't be discouraged from doing it. Just a quick little splice where you can hide it and you're golden!


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Don't they all have double wires? I haven't had one that hasn't. It honestly takes like 5 more minutes to do a double wire. If there's one or two I wouldn't be discouraged from doing it. Just a quick little splice where you can hide it and you're golden!


If you mean all PSU's, no. There are many units from EVGA and Silverstone that are completely 1:1, or that have 1 double wire that can be removed.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> If you mean all PSU's, no. There are many units from EVGA and Silverstone that are completely 1:1, or that have *1 double wire that can be removed.*


That's what my SFX 450G had. Either way, I wouldn't let double wires influence my choice in PSU. My Seasonic had several, just like sleeving, watercooling, overclocking, pc building, or any of these hobbies we all love and have in common, the first time you do it you might hit a bump or two but you get better at it with each one thereafter. I would just try to get the best PSU possible within my budget. Whatever you decide to do, good luck and I look forward to seeing pictures.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Neither of those power supplies have 1:1 pinouts (at least on the 24 pin) , so they will both have double wires I think


sorry but whats 1:1 pinout means?


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> sorry but whats 1:1 pinout means?


It means that there is only 1 corresponding pin on the power supply for each pin on the motherboard connections. Some power supplies have double wires, so they'll have like and 18 + 10 pin connections on the power supply that come together to the 24 pin motherboard connector.


----------



## lowfat

1:1 generally translates in to cleaner straighter cables if done right.


----------



## fast_fate

Starting my e-Loop sleeving

Hope to get them all looking as schmick as this


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

could that cable get any shorter?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> could that cable get any shorter?


Stock e-Lopp length








Makes it just a bit more challenging


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Stock e-Lopp length
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Makes it just a bit more challenging


Wut? are these cables made for ants









I'll stick to AP-15s with nice long cables


----------



## stickg1

I'm pretty sure those fans come with a few different length cables so you can choose the most convenient length for your situation. Pretty good idea IMO. I'm still not paying $25/fan though.


----------



## Himo5

The issue about fan connection length was visited earlier in the thread around post 10617.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Wut? are these cables made for ants
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll stick to AP-15s with nice long cables


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I'm pretty sure those fans come with a few different length cables so you can choose the most convenient length for your situation. Pretty good idea IMO. I'm still not paying $25/fan though.


I agree with stickg1. I think it's a great idea to make the lead off the fan short and use different length extension cables to fit your needs. When i sleeved my AP-00's I actually shortened the cables like that of the e-Loops. Worked out really well with the 4-way fan harnesses I made to use with the radiators.


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Starting my e-Loop sleeving
> 
> Hope to get them all looking as schmick as this


I didn't know it was possible to make the eloops any sexier.
Until now.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Looking pretty schmick to me!


----------



## stickg1

So I started the cable shortening project. Took about 4 inches off my PCIe 6pin and 8pin. It was originally a 6+2, 6+2, but I got rid of some of the splices and the unused +2pin to clean it up some. No pics yet, it took me about an hour and half cutting and crimping, and I wish I had bothered to train it but I was using the PSU's original wires so they weren't that straight to begin with. I plan on bundling all the cables once I shorten the SATA power, MOLEX power, and 24pin, so I should be able to give them the illusion of being trained.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> could that cable get any shorter?


That is the length all fan cables should be.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> That is the length all fan cables should be.


I couldn't agree more. I'm quite pleased with my dwarfed eloop cables.









Anyhow, I was hoping to get a suggestion or two from all of you high speed cable sleeving masters. I'm trying to figure out what to do with my gpu cables. I'd like to have straight runs from the gpus to the psu. From the positioning of the gpu connectors it seems difficult.



Maybe I could make them long enough to go all the way down to the bottom of the case and fasten them with these cable management clips I have and then run them back up to the psu?


----------



## vilius572

Does anybody knows if sleeved cables from Corsair AX1200 will work with Corsair AX860?


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> Does anybody knows if sleeved cables from Corsair AX1200 will work with Corsair AX860?


Unlikely, the AX860 is manufactured by SeaSonic, the AX1200 by Flextronics.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Anyhow, I was hoping to get a suggestion or two from all of you high speed cable sleeving masters. I'm trying to figure out what to do with my gpu cables. I'd like to have straight runs from the gpus to the psu. From the positioning of the gpu connectors it seems difficult.


Personally if I didn't have anything going into that spot in front of the PSU there I'd do a fanned arc with the GPU cables kinda like the set in the bottom right corner (and I'd actually try heatshrinkless if I redid this again, I think it'd be a lot cleaner):



Anyway, if you want to do a straight run from the GPU to the PSU (though I think there'd be a slight downward turning arc off the bottom GPU to line the connectors up with the PSU) I'd probably make each wire individually - this does far better at holding a specific line imo. The down side is you likely won't be able to re-use the cables if you upgrade your case or GPU's later.

For a more 'minimalistic' look, you could do a short run from your first GPU to the second GPU, then combine the wires into single sleeves to make the final run to the psu so you don't have 22 wires fighting for space there; and you should be able to kind of stack the two inside a 1/4" sleeve so the presenting profile is only one wire wide. It'd be a bit time consuming cause you'd have to make an exit hole in the top set's sleeve, burn the hole in so it doesn't fray out, then individually sleeve the bottom PSU connector wires, but I believe a 1/4" sleeve would accommodate both wires as well as a bit of the 1/8" sleeve for the kick out wire connection. Optionally you could just heat shrink (or use all black/white/green/whatever color wire) for the lower psu connections and they would kind of fade into the background behind the top psu connector (at least when looking at it head on.)

Along similar lines, you could do a solid color (I'd suggest black) wire straight down the side of the GPU, under your MB, then back up to your PSU (you could even sleeve the bit to your PSU if you wanted) I did a braided black on my GPU cables, but honestly you can barely notice them even when braided - if they weren't braided they'd be about invisible stretched taut against the GPU cover plate:



Now if you really want minimalistic straight go rigid. Down side there is you can't move anything without messing with your lines. 16g solid wire will hold its shape just fine, but if you drop, bump, or tweak the wire in anyway you have to reshape, and possibly remake wires - aka every time you plug/unplug something from your psu you're likely to need to also mess with your gpu cables. It's a real ***** to work with but the look is unquestionably worth every second of frustration imho. (If you've never seen rigid wires, check out K-limes absolute genius in his final pictures; stunning: http://www.overclock.net/t/1445135/cooler-master-cm690iii-modded-edition) I believe he used solid copper rod so he didn't have to straighten out the coil. I'm an ex jeweler and know a few tricks for straightening out coiled wire so I'm using 16g tinned copper wire (I wanted silver), then ya heat shrink to protect from electrical shorts, and solder on pins for the connectors. Here's a little sample of what I'm going to do with my some of my rigid connections (this ones for my MB power):



Well hopefully that gave ya some ideas


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Personally if I didn't have anything going into that spot in front of the PSU there I'd do a fanned arc with the GPU cables kinda like the set in the bottom right corner (and I'd actually try heatshrinkless if I redid this again, I think it'd be a lot cleaner):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, if you want to do a straight run from the GPU to the PSU (though I think there'd be a slight downward turning arc off the bottom GPU to line the connectors up with the PSU) I'd probably make each wire individually - this does far better at holding a specific line imo. The down side is you likely won't be able to re-use the cables if you upgrade your case or GPU's later.
> 
> For a more 'minimalistic' look, you could do a short run from your first GPU to the second GPU, then combine the wires into single sleeves to make the final run to the psu so you don't have 22 wires fighting for space there; and you should be able to kind of stack the two inside a 1/4" sleeve so the presenting profile is only one wire wide. It'd be a bit time consuming cause you'd have to make an exit hole in the top set's sleeve, burn the hole in so it doesn't fray out, then individually sleeve the bottom PSU connector wires, but I believe a 1/4" sleeve would accommodate both wires as well as a bit of the 1/8" sleeve for the kick out wire connection. Optionally you could just heat shrink (or use all black/white/green/whatever color wire) for the lower psu connections and they would kind of fade into the background behind the top psu connector (at least when looking at it head on.)
> 
> Along similar lines, you could do a solid color (I'd suggest black) wire straight down the side of the GPU, under your MB, then back up to your PSU (you could even sleeve the bit to your PSU if you wanted) I did a braided black on my GPU cables, but honestly you can barely notice them even when braided - if they weren't braided they'd be about invisible stretched taut against the GPU cover plate:
> 
> 
> 
> Now if you really want minimalistic straight go rigid. Down side there is you can't move anything without messing with your lines. 16g solid wire will hold its shape just fine, but if you drop, bump, or tweak the wire in anyway you have to reshape, and possibly remake wires - aka every time you plug/unplug something from your psu you're likely to need to also mess with your gpu cables. It's a real ***** to work with but the look is unquestionably worth every second of frustration imho. (If you've never seen rigid wires, check out K-limes absolute genius in his final pictures; stunning: http://www.overclock.net/t/1445135/cooler-master-cm690iii-modded-edition) I believe he used solid copper rod so he didn't have to straighten out the coil. I'm an ex jeweler and know a few tricks for straightening out coiled wire so I'm using 16g tinned copper wire (I wanted silver), then ya heat shrink to protect from electrical shorts, and solder on pins for the connectors. Here's a little sample of what I'm going to do with my some of my rigid connections (this ones for my MB power):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well hopefully that gave ya some ideas


I would love to go rigid at the gpu cables but I'm not sure how it'd look. I've seen K-limes work..very clean and innovative. I tried doing the one wire at a time method and kinda messed that it up. I'll need to order more atx pins and possibly wire and sleeving if I waste too much material lol. I'm going with the traditional one length wire set for the time being to keep the ball rolling. I may try some other methods at a later time.

Thank you for all of the information and suggestions!


----------



## tinus93

Did a company just actually awnser my question







?
These guys are the unicorns of any industry. Also thank you Big Elf for telling me what connector it was. Shame the terminals are $0.30 each


----------



## Big Elf

*$0.13* here


----------



## OffTheChart

so, I have been tasked with doing my 1st sleeving job on a sleeved Corsair kit

I was surprised to find the sleeving actually crimped with the cable and so, decided to just do the sleeving over the original

it really does give it a nice 'full' loo/feel, much like what I expect 16AWG wire would give

now I have just run into 1 little snag... the double wires

as I am using paracord and heatshrinkless, I wanted to find out if anyone has done, and can give some advice/info/help, on doing the double wires as what Lutro0 does with normal sleeving, only with paracord

I saw Deztro?? on here doing an awesome job on double wires, both on a single molex connectors

1 thing I would like to know, is how to prevent the fraying from the cut you make to get the sleeve to fit snug over the solder joint ?

I guess the quickest/easiest method would be to also do the glue solution, but wanted to find out if there is any other way

http://www.imagebam.com/image/327a6e331359006

http://www.imagebam.com/image/cd1801330580344

http://www.imagebam.com/image/17413f330580311


----------



## stickg1

Finished shortening the cables in my S3 build. Talk about time consuming! I didn't get it perfect but it's much cleaner than before!


----------



## WiSK

Well done Stickg1!


----------



## stickg1

Thanks! I found some metal cable ties at the local hardware store that I am planning on using to replace the black nylon zip ties. I think it will look better, I wish I had done a better job keeping the wires from tangling on the 24pin but with my pin out wires had to go allll over the place and it was hard to manage. If I had planned it out and labeled every wire I probably could have done a better job but my primary concern was taking about six inches off the length, and that was a success!


----------



## rootwyrm

Ugh, hit a nasty snag in my build. Promise photos either way, but in the meantime, here's the problem:
32"+ cable run. No, not a typo. And it's pretty heavily loaded - 5 x WDC RE4's. The actual run looks like this, using blade (not crimped) SATA:
PSU - 16"+ - RE4.4 - 3" - RE4.3 - 4" - RE4.2 - 3" - RE4.1 - 3" - RE4.0

The drives chew up 10W each (yep, about 50W+ total) and get positively HAMMERED. Non-stop. How screwed am I gonna be on a run that long? I can shorten it drastically, but then I have to pull out cooling ductwork.









Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk


----------



## WiSK

It's 4 amps, under 3 feet. Should be okay. But if you are concerned, why not make 2 sata cables instead of putting all five drives on one?


----------



## stickg1

I replaced the black nylon zip ties with stainless steel ties!


----------



## rootwyrm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It's 4 amps, under 3 feet. Should be okay. But if you are concerned, why not make 2 sata cables instead of putting all five drives on one?


Should mention - 18ga not 16ga. (Save the EPS, the other runs are <16" or <2A.) And my EE knowledge is limited to -48VDC high amp.

Can't do a double run for this one, because I'm literally out of PSU side connections. That's how big this monster is. Has 5 peripheral outputs; one run is the RAID5, one run is the SSDs + Kraken, one run one run for 5.25" bay, one run for accessory supply A (low mount high-amp), one run for accessory supply B (high mount low-amp). Already got tricky splices all over the place too.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I replaced the black nylon zip ties with stainless steel ties!


Looks better








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rootwyrm*
> 
> Should mention - 18ga not 16ga.


It's not the wire gauge that's the problem, it's that MiniFitJr pins are only rated for 7 amps or so. Ie the pin at the end of the wire, going into the PSU.

What is the spin up current draw of your drives?


----------



## ixsis

Molex claims 9 amps for the MiniFitJr so he's _probably_ ok...


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ixsis*
> 
> Molex claims 9 amps for the MiniFitJr so he's _probably_ ok...


"Up to 9 amps". That's for the brass pins, and only when you have 2 or 3 pins in the housing.

Most vendors sell the phosphor-bronze ones, and since 4 wires of the sata will be live, the rating is 7 amps. http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/ps/PS-5556-002.pdf , page 4.


----------



## ixsis

Good to know! Thanks for the clarification WiSK.


----------



## rootwyrm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It's not the wire gauge that's the problem, it's that MiniFitJr pins are only rated for 7 amps or so. Ie the pin at the end of the wire, going into the PSU.
> 
> What is the spin up current draw of your drives?


The PSU side is NOT an issue - the length, however, is. I have run 12x15K RPM off a single 5 pin MiniFitJr feed. It was about 6" of wire. So that settled, as I said, it's a question of loss over length more than anything. Oh, and 7A at what voltage? Because SATA is 3.3V, 5V, 12V. Have to ask LutroO what kind of pins they are.

Spin-up draw is irrelevant though; they're staggered.


----------



## Big Elf

With all due respect to Lutro0 I think you'll find he knows a lot less than WiSK about it.

Curious how you stagger a delayed start up on hard drives. Is it to reduce the current draw on start up or is there another reason?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It's 4 amps, under 3 feet. Should be okay. But if you are concerned, why not make 2 sata cables instead of putting all five drives on one?


From experience when I sleeve oem or specialized systems I try not to put a ton of hardrives in a chain unless they are lower class and even then try to keep them under 2-3. But thats not a rule of thumb just Lutro0 Customs own policy.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> With all due respect to Lutro0 I think you'll find he knows a lot less than WiSK about it.
> 
> Curious how you stagger a delayed start up on hard drives. Is it to reduce the current draw on start up or is there another reason?


I would agree WISK is very knowledgeable in the area. From experience however when I make custom cables I will take the draw into account and if I think there will be an issue I simply make new runs to keep things safe.

That being said I have seen (no experience myself as I try to keep 2-3 HDDs on one run at the max as a rule of thumb not only for ease of sleeving but safety) a chain of 7-9 hardrives on one long 90 sata connection. Now wither this was safe or not or continued to work I dont know.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rootwyrm*
> 
> The PSU side is NOT an issue - the length, however, is. I have run 12x15K RPM off a single 5 pin MiniFitJr feed. It was about 6" of wire. So that settled, as I said, it's a question of loss over length more than anything. Oh, and 7A at what voltage? Because SATA is 3.3V, 5V, 12V. Have to ask LutroO what kind of pins they are.
> 
> Spin-up draw is irrelevant though; they're staggered.


http://lutro0-customs.com/products/sata-power-crimp-terminal-5-count
http://lutro0-customs.com/products/sata-power-crimp-style-connector
Those are for the sata crimped terminals.

The other is the 90 degree witch does not use terminals but a push in connection.
http://lutro0-customs.com/products/sata-power-push-in-style-connector

From experience I will try not sleeve any cables over 40-47in, I have done 60in before on a 24pin and I believe it worked just fine but that's all I know.

After talking to a few psu makers that I have done work for I was always given the suggestion to try to stay under 40 - 50, I believe the reason for it was the decrease in efficiency at higher loads and increase in noise (electrical).

Also if I do run cables that long I use 16awg.

*But I will let WISK let us know what he has ran into as I very much trust his opinion.*


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rootwyrm*
> 
> 7A at what voltage?


Any voltage up to 600V. Heat generation in metal is a complex integration based on current and thermal resistivity, on the geometry of the metal (length, cross-section, etc), temperature/airflow of the immediate surroundings and probably several other factors I forget. Physics class was a long time ago. But I know that voltage is not a variable in the equation, or at least, energy generated is not proportional to voltage.

I think we can all recount various anecdotal situations where we connected X number of drives on Y number of wires. But we are usually not measuring and recording all the details: current at PSU, current at each drive, type of insulation, air temperature, stabilised wire temperature, exact alloy of the wire, etc etc. So the anecdote remains an anecdote. Even if it was valuable experience, it could be luck that it works.

So that only leaves us with the manufacturer's rating. We can gamble to go over it, or we can play safe and stay within it.

I still think you will be okay with your drives on one cable, especially if the spin up is staggered. If you want to be entirely prudent, you could use an ammeter and a temperature probe to find out exactly what is going on with your drives.

Perhaps I can do some deeper research about it and make a thread with some tests and measurements. Gives me an excuse to buy a temp probe and a better multimeter


----------



## rootwyrm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> With all due respect to Lutro0 I think you'll find he knows a lot less than WiSK about it.


Oh, not disagreeing. I'm just saying: you'd have to ask him for the technical specs on the pins. I don't know them myself. I do know I've run way more than 'safe' current without issue for many years. But shorter runs, more conductor, and with decouple.
Quote:


> Curious how you stagger a delayed start up on hard drives. Is it to reduce the current draw on start up or is there another reason?


It's done via Pin 11 control combined with signalling control channel on SATA. Pretty much any large array (being 5 or more drives) is either going to be staggered or configurable backplane/midplane. It is, exactly as you guessed, to avoid draw peaking. Especially in high RPM drives, where you're looking at as much as 6 seconds to get the motor up to speed on a 15K. Controller (or drive in the old days) has to support it is the catch, and I've seen all of 2 C600-series boards that have staggering properly enabled in BIOS.

Not going to lie, I would REALLY rather have a 16-20" run to a power midplane setup with quad 470uF caps. (AKA insane overkill.) However, as I'm finding, the NZXT H630 is very modifiable but extremely difficult to setup. Especially the 3.5" bays.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> From experience I will try not sleeve any cables over 40-47in, I have done 60in before on a 24pin and I believe it worked just fine but that's all I know.


Yeah; the total isn't THAT bad - only 32". And I'm using your push-ins because, yeah, crimp is NOT gonna happen due to the chassis. Trust me on this one, H630 owners. It's the 18ga that's making me a bit twitchy, even though it's literally the same wire Seasonic uses.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> That being said I have seen (no experience myself as I try to keep 2-3 HDDs on one run at the max as a rule of thumb not only for ease of sleeving but safety) a chain of 7-9 hardrives on one long 90 sata connection. Now wither this was safe or not or continued to work I dont know.


Well, this one I can answer authoritatively since my usual specialty is very big systems. It is entirely safe on a *staggered startup* to go up to conductor/source limit minus 20% margin for restart based on peak non-startup draw - not nominal. For non-staggered you're obviously limited by peak startup. Note that you cannot permit drives to spin down even in a staggered setup; restart will pop the circuit. Generally speaking, you don't want to have more than 4 drives on a single circuit. But that's not electrical - that's array logical reasons. You want a stripe to span circuits so that an environmental fault (e.g. PSU2 fault) will only impact PART of the array rather than the whole array.

But provided you are within electrical tolerances, you can safely and reliably cram a truckload of drives onto a single physical circuit. So long as you don't care about hot swap or drive failure potentially dropping the whole chain (which is usually a GOOD thing since you want it to be an EPO) you can string up drives till the cows come home.


----------



## rootwyrm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Any voltage up to 600V. Heat generation in metal is a complex integration based on current and thermal resistivity, on the geometry of the metal (length, cross-section, etc), temperature/airflow of the immediate surroundings and probably several other factors I forget. Physics class was a long time ago. But I know that voltage is not a variable in the equation, or at least, energy generated is not proportional to voltage.


That's the fun part about some of these parts; half the time they actually go by typical carried voltage rather than thermoplastic rating or whatever it's called. So even though the housing's good to 550V they base rating on 48VDC. Don't ask me why they do this. It's annoying as hell.
Quote:


> I think we can all recount various anecdotal situations where we connected X number of drives on Y number of wires. But we are usually not measuring and recording all the details: current at PSU, current at each drive, type of insulation, air temperature, stabilised wire temperature, exact alloy of the wire, etc etc. So the anecdote remains an anecdote. Even if it was valuable experience, it could be luck that it works.


Anecdotal nothin', hee. I might have some picture of non-sleeved setups and rub-taped setups. Believe me, I measure all the details very very very carefully. But only in the actually big stuff. Not in the small stuff. (For me, anything 8 drives or under is 'tiny.') But I also have to, because these are setups where the amount of custom work is well beyond 'I made cables.' Literally, 'I called Etasis and gave the engineers a pile of data.' But a five pack of 208VAC supplies in 4+1 is worlds apart from "I picked up a PSU from Amazon on sale."
Quote:


> So that only leaves us with the manufacturer's rating. We can gamble to go over it, or we can play safe and stay within it.
> 
> I still think you will be okay with your drives on one cable, especially if the spin up is staggered. If you want to be entirely prudent, you could use an ammeter and a temperature probe to find out exactly what is going on with your drives.
> 
> Perhaps I can do some deeper research about it and make a thread with some tests and measurements. Gives me an excuse to buy a temp probe and a better multimeter


Yeah, I'm just gonna have to chance it, I suspect. My biggest worry was the distance loss given it's 18ga. I'll just have to keep an eye on the connector bite. Then again, given my luck, something's going to catch fire anyway. (I haven't so much as bent a pin. So something has to go horribly wrong soon.)

I'd definitely be in for helping out with the deeper research though. There's a whole bunch of factors that go into truly large setups, even non-hotswap. Even in a staggered, it's not as simple as just "oh, wait 3 seconds" - gotta know what your actual motor spin-up time. Plus there's issues like motor faults. And who doesn't want an excuse to buy a Fluke 179 and a 62 MAX?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Any voltage up to 600V. Heat generation in metal is a complex integration based on current and thermal resistivity, on the geometry of the metal (length, cross-section, etc), temperature/airflow of the immediate surroundings and probably several other factors I forget. Physics class was a long time ago. But I know that voltage is not a variable in the equation, or at least, energy generated is not proportional to voltage.
> 
> I think we can all recount various anecdotal situations where we connected X number of drives on Y number of wires. But we are usually not measuring and recording all the details: current at PSU, current at each drive, type of insulation, air temperature, stabilised wire temperature, exact alloy of the wire, etc etc. So the anecdote remains an anecdote. Even if it was valuable experience, it could be luck that it works.
> 
> So that only leaves us with the manufacturer's rating. We can gamble to go over it, or we can play safe and stay within it.
> 
> I still think you will be okay with your drives on one cable, especially if the spin up is staggered. If you want to be entirely prudent, you could use an ammeter and a temperature probe to find out exactly what is going on with your drives.
> 
> Perhaps I can do some deeper research about it and make a thread with some tests and measurements. Gives me an excuse to buy a temp probe and a better multimeter


Let me know what you need for this and I will make sure you have what you need. Anyone with the right expertise willing to give out info on this has my backing and Lutro0 Customs. Good on you WISK.


----------



## WiSK

I think I just need the measuring equipment and a load of drives where the datasheet is available. At work I know we've just replaced an EVA array, so maybe I can talk to the guy and ask if the drives are available 'to borrow'









On the other hand, drives from work won't be like drives people buy for their home PCs. So tests might not be useful generally for this forum.

What do we want to prove exactly? I want to examine the 12V pin on the PSU side, and Rootwyrm is concerned about wire length. Also, is the quality of a crimp bite an issue? How can I measure arcing?


----------



## rootwyrm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I think I just need the measuring equipment and a load of drives where the datasheet is available. At work I know we've just replaced an EVA array, so maybe I can talk to the guy and ask if the drives are available 'to borrow'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the other hand, drives from work won't be like drives people buy for their home PCs. So tests might not be useful generally for this forum.


Oh gods, HP EVA.. the drives in the EVA have pretty extensively customized firmware, so wouldn't really work. Good news however, is that I know where all the data sheets are hidden and I have engineering contacts at some manufacturers. (Yes, I have the data available for WDC Green low-power spin up somewhere around here. Mwhaha.)

Past that, I mean, probably the biggest need other than a pile of identical drives (would have to be VERY identical right down to the POH count because of motor loading) it'd just be a pile of various wires and connectors.
Quote:


> What do we want to prove exactly? I want to examine the 12V pin on the PSU side, and Rootwyrm is concerned about wire length. Also, is the quality of a crimp bite an issue? How can I measure arcing?


Well, what most folks around here are going to be concerned with is probably:
Wire length, number of drives, and quality of bite for push-fit (not looking for arc but impedance I believe) especially across multiple types of wire. e.g. "Am I cool with 18ga Alpha or should I use Lutro0's 16ga?"
Edit: Also probably want to look at/for drop between drives after the drive. That has to be done at the drive PCB or in drive controller (not the X58/LSI 1068/etc). I can show you where to tap those.

I can probably come up with a circuit calculator for the draw pretty easily. Plug in drive make, model, capacity, count, find out how much you need from 12V, 5V, 3.3V. Remember that current SATA power is 3.3VDC x 3, GND x 3, 5VDC x 3, GND, DATA, GND, 12VDC x 3.

I HAVE to get the machine up and running since I am basically without a working system right now, but soon as that's done (or at least attempted) I'll check if I still have my old bulk midplane or at least the designs. It had multiple diagnostic takeoff points that were extremely accurate.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I think I just need the measuring equipment and a load of drives where the datasheet is available. At work I know we've just replaced an EVA array, so maybe I can talk to the guy and ask if the drives are available 'to borrow'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the other hand, drives from work won't be like drives people buy for their home PCs. So tests might not be useful generally for this forum.
> 
> What do we want to prove exactly? I want to examine the 12V pin on the PSU side, and Rootwyrm is concerned about wire length. Also, is the quality of a crimp bite an issue? How can I measure arcing?


I want to say yes the crimp is key. I have used all sorts of crimpers and the ones we sell seem to hold the wire even more so 16awg wire the best, as in electrical connection wise and we can skype on night and I will explain all the boring details from my expertise. but it does factor in very much. also the cheap chinese terminals also play a key. we just need to sit down and find out what we need to measure to the drop in efficiancy and the extra noise produced by extra long cables. If I need to purchase a few high end drives thats a small price to pay for good data. =)

But so much so a person that can read that data and provide a good answer is more important. root if your willing to offer in some of your help it would be nice.


----------



## tinus93

Reorganised this cheap chinese sleeve in ROYGBIV. Now if only my powdercoater would hurry and finish my 750D


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rootwyrm*
> 
> Past that, I mean, probably the biggest need other than a pile of identical drives (would have to be VERY identical right down to the POH count because of motor loading) it'd just be a pile of various wires and connectors.
> Well, what most folks around here are going to be concerned with is probably:
> Wire length, number of drives, and quality of bite for push-fit (not looking for arc but impedance I believe) especially across multiple types of wire. e.g. "Am I cool with 18ga Alpha or should I use Lutro0's 16ga?"
> Edit: Also probably want to look at/for drop between drives after the drive. That has to be done at the drive PCB or in drive controller (not the X58/LSI 1068/etc). I can show you where to tap those.


Do they have to be _that_ identical? If I measure each one on its own, I should be able to come up with a range for error margin. Really struggling to figure out where the *** I can get a pile of identical drives. Perhaps I shouldn't be so ambitious and just start with a bunch of old drives, so that I at least get some results









Methodology

find max number of drives on a short 0.75mm2 wire w/ 18AWG pins, then max number of drives on a 1.5mm2 wire w/ 16AWG pins, so that I have a range
measure current, voltage drop, temperature inside connectors and ambient temperature
observe points of failure: pin damage, wire overheating, drives refusing to start, reported error rates.
what happens when ambient is increased - hot box test
once that's estabilished, I can go on to try various pins, various lengths of wire, etc.
More ideas?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinus93*
> 
> Reorganised this cheap chinese sleeve in ROYGBIV. Now if only my powdercoater would hurry and finish my 750D


Not bad looking









It is that stretched as far as it could be?


----------



## rootwyrm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Do they have to be _that_ identical? If I measure each one on its own, I should be able to come up with a range for error margin. Really struggling to figure out where the *** I can get a pile of identical drives. Perhaps I shouldn't be so ambitious and just start with a bunch of old drives, so that I at least get some results


Yes, they really have to be that identical. Age affects the motor draw, especially POH and restart cycles to varying degrees. A HGST Ultrastar 15K with 10000 hours will be way off from a Seacrate Cheetah with 10000 hours. The only way to get guaranteed accurate step by step is to have identical drives right down to the firmware. The good news is, they don't have to be high end drives necessarily. Just can't do it purely on load simulators. And load simulators have only limited validity. (Yes, they're just big resistors.)
Quote:


> Methodology
> 
> find max number of drives on a short 0.75mm2 wire w/ 18AWG pins, then max number of drives on a 1.5mm2 wire w/ 16AWG pins, so that I have a range


You can actually sorta skip this step. Just apply basic EE knowhow; wire X can carry Y Amps at Z Volts for distance C. Just remember that each voltage set is 3 pins but actually a single wire - makes it much easier. (Also note these results will apply to SAS drives as well.)
Quote:


> measure current, voltage drop, temperature inside connectors and ambient temperature
> observe points of failure: pin damage, wire overheating, drives refusing to start, reported error rates.
> what happens when ambient is increased - hot box test
> once that's estabilished, I can go on to try various pins, various lengths of wire, etc.
> More ideas?


Well, depends if you're local to me, because there's a whole lot of failure scenarios that should generally be tested out. But it depends how hardcore you wanna go. The biggest thing to be looking at is going to be current and voltage drop at each point in the chain. We can have a pretty good idea of voltage drop with basic wire stuff if it's a single drive. Spliced and push-in, obviously, we don't. However, that has to be taken at the drive.
Also want to look at resistance based on various wire types and connector types, lower being better. Mostly I'm concerned push-in will have higher values than crimped. Meaning yes, if I'm right, the math just got fun. Would love to do it with a Tektronix DMM4050, which costs about $1500 but is designed for exactly what we're planning to do here. But yeah. Tools, not cheap.








Hot box testing is kinda unnecessary; anything over 45C drive indicated is damaging and over 50C drive indicated is fatal. These numbers aren't hard to hit, even with good cooling.

Bigger problem is load testing under various scenarios. Unless somebody around here won the lottery recently or works for Teledyne-LeCroy, I'd bet money I'm the only person here with a setup that can do that. :/


----------



## tinus93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Not bad looking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is that stretched as far as it could be?


This about halfway I'd say. Only the silver one is tight on there.


----------



## tinus93

Even more colours, this white looks better than the other white. No idea why.


----------



## kingchris

good colours


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinus93*
> 
> Even more colours, this white looks better than the other white. No idea why.


Is That sleeve from Axon ??
Looks kinda familiar to the purple and red I tried from him.


----------



## tinus93

Nope! Not sleeving from Axon however it comes very close to it.


----------



## marduke83

Have started sleeving my own PSU cables with 550 paracord, was a bit worried about screwing it up at first (I had bought the bitfenix extensions and moved the wires to get the colour scheme I wanted), but decided to just bite the bullet as I wasn't happy with the look of the normal cables at the PSU and the sleeved extensions. I must say it's alot easier than I thought it was, just time consuming. I honestly found it relaxing.. haha
I have done my 8-pin EPS sofar and came out really good, next is the 24 pin and to make my own 8-pin PCI-e cables as I donot like the 6+2 design that corsair uses.
Still have the 24pin extension in this pic just as a visual for what I want.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marduke83*
> 
> Have started sleeving my own PSU cables with 550 paracord, was a bit worried about screwing it up at first (I had bought the bitfenix extensions and moved the wires to get the colour scheme I wanted), but decided to just bite the bullet as I wasn't happy with the look of the normal cables at the PSU and the sleeved extensions. I must say it's alot easier than I thought it was, just time consuming. I honestly found it relaxing.. haha
> I have done my 8-pin EPS sofar and came out really good, next is the 24 pin and to make my own 8-pin PCI-e cables as I donot like the 6+2 design that corsair uses.
> Still have the 24pin extension in this pic just as a visual for what I want.


Good job








I find that mobo to be absolutely gorgeous!


----------



## kingchris

colours suit the m/b


----------



## ref

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marduke83*
> 
> Have started sleeving my own PSU cables with 550 paracord, was a bit worried about screwing it up at first (I had bought the bitfenix extensions and moved the wires to get the colour scheme I wanted), but decided to just bite the bullet as I wasn't happy with the look of the normal cables at the PSU and the sleeved extensions. I must say it's alot easier than I thought it was, just time consuming. I honestly found it relaxing.. haha
> I have done my 8-pin EPS sofar and came out really good, next is the 24 pin and to make my own 8-pin PCI-e cables as I donot like the 6+2 design that corsair uses.
> Still have the 24pin extension in this pic just as a visual for what I want.


Looks great man


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marduke83*


Looks great Marduke83!! Really like that red sleeving. Which sleeving is it?

I have an Asus Crosshair Formula V that's also red and black. But I have done all my cables in Techflex red sleeving. All my cables have been sleeved together except for my two pci-e cables which I've sleeved each wire individually. Wonder if I should add a couple wires sleeved in black? I have tons of that on hand thanks to a friend of my fathers who makes it at his job. Wish I could do my 8-pin,4+4-pin,and my 24-pin in individual sleeved wires. But those cables are directly wired to the psu and I don't dare do it on my own.

Has anyone sleeved a Thermaltake Toughpower XT Gold 1375W psu?

Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## marduke83

Thanks for the positive feedback !







So funny thing, now I've seen some builds with nice looking psu covers, and am in the process of making one myself, so I have decided to not sleeve all of my psu cables as they will be hidden anyway, but I will be re sleeving the extensions just to have a uniform look with the paracord (the paracord I'm using is a much tighter and finer weave than what bitfenix uses). Seems my old car modding hunger has come back after years of laying dormant.. haha








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> Looks great Marduke83!! Really like that red sleeving. Which sleeving is it?
> 
> I have an Asus Crosshair Formula V that's also red and black. But I have done all my cables in Techflex red sleeving. All my cables have been sleeved together except for my two pci-e cables which I've sleeved each wire individually. Wonder if I should add a couple wires sleeved in black? I have tons of that on hand thanks to a friend of my fathers who makes it at his job. Wish I could do my 8-pin,4+4-pin,and my 24-pin in individual sleeved wires. But those cables are directly wired to the psu and I don't dare do it on my own.
> 
> Has anyone sleeved a Thermaltake Toughpower XT Gold 1375W psu?
> 
> Wolf_Fangs1381


I've done the 8-pin in 550 paracord (imperial red). The 24pin is just a bitfenix extension with the wires moved around to the pattern I want for now.


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinus93*
> 
> Reorganised this cheap chinese sleeve in ROYGBIV. Now if only my powdercoater would hurry and finish my 750D


Where did you buy those puppies







?

Enviado desde mi SM-T210 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## kpoeticg

Lutro makes/sells em. FrozenCPU also carries em. They're called Cable Combs. That type is named "Codename Stealth". They come in Clear & Black and just about every size you could want =)

http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-cable-comb-codename-stealth


----------



## WiSK

I'd forgotten how much of a hassle non-modular PSUs are


----------



## tinus93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Where did you buy those puppies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> Enviado desde mi SM-T210 mediante Tapatalk


A friend of mine bought this in Manilla and the shop owner told him it came from HongKong somewhere. I am working on getitng some more of it. As for the cable combs I got them from bit-tech.pl http://www.modding.bit-tech.pl/sklep/en/cable-comb/462-cable-comb-knuckle-duster-.html Marek is a great guy and shipments always come fast.


----------



## ozzy1925

i have made a list for my incoming ax 1500i.I will use 3 color theme black+ white+grey or red without heatshrink.I will only use white heatshrink for sata and fan cables.Can you check if these parts enough for 1 psu +18 fan, 3 or 4 sata cable and corsair 900d front I/O cables or too much?.


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I'd forgotten how much of a hassle non-modular PSUs are


And have you noticed just how vile masking tape can become to get rid of after you use it like that?

Now that I've got the dyeing sorted out I also have an old non-modular TX650 to do with Teleios sleeving in wire colors, which should be fun - in a Japanese sort of way.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Can you check ... or too much?


I don't know about your lengths, but always buy twice as much heatshrink as you think you'll need








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> And have you noticed just how vile masking tape can become to get rid of after you use it like that?
> 
> Now that I've got the dyeing sorted out I also have an old non-modular TX650 to do with Teleios sleeving in wire colors, which should be fun - in a Japanese sort of way.


Yes, masking tape is horrible. At least TX650 has some extra space inside. I've got about 10 square cms in this SFX unit


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Now if you really want minimalistic straight go rigid. Down side there is you can't move anything without messing with your lines. 16g solid wire will hold its shape just fine, but if you drop, bump, or tweak the wire in anyway you have to reshape, and possibly remake wires - aka every time you plug/unplug something from your psu you're likely to need to also mess with your gpu cables. It's a real ***** to work with but the look is unquestionably worth every second of frustration imho. (If you've never seen rigid wires, check out K-limes absolute genius in his final pictures; stunning: http://www.overclock.net/t/1445135/cooler-master-cm690iii-modded-edition) I believe he used solid copper rod so he didn't have to straighten out the coil. I'm an ex jeweler and know a few tricks for straightening out coiled wire so I'm using 16g tinned copper wire (I wanted silver), then ya heat shrink to protect from electrical shorts, and solder on pins for the connectors. Here's a little sample of what I'm going to do with my some of my rigid connections (this ones for my MB power):
> 
> 
> 
> Well hopefully that gave ya some ideas


I'm in the middle of doing rigid wires with my build now. It's the only thing left that I need to do with my build... In fact, it was K-Limes build that encouraged me to try the same thing. There aren't that many builds out there with rigid wiring, so I wanted this build to go down as one of them.

Oh and by the way, he used brass rods not copper.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I'm in the middle of doing rigid wires with my build now. It's the only thing left that I need to do with my build... In fact, it was K-Limes build that encouraged me to try the same thing. There aren't that many builds out there with rigid wiring, so I wanted this build to go down as one of them.
> 
> Oh and by the way, he used brass rods not copper.


Right you are! I misspoke on that, it was brass indeed now that you mention it. Still the copper wire will work just as well so long as one knows how to straighten it from the spool.

And yea, I don't particularly care about 'being one of the few' but rigid wires are perfect for the look of my build with the rigid tubing. I'll have to check your log when you get those done


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marduke83*
> 
> I've done the 8-pin in 550 paracord (imperial red). The 24pin is just a bitfenix extension with the wires moved around to the pattern I want for now.


Thank you very much for telling what type of sleeving that was. I will definitely keep that in mind in case I do another build with red sleeving. Well I must say it looks really good,even if it is an extension. I just need to learn how to run my wires parrallel to one another. Looking forward to seeing your build finished.

Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## pbaines

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I'd forgotten how much of a hassle non-modular PSUs are


This is why you buy a cheap multimeter , (no labeling etc) it is actually a heap easier than sleeving a modular!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbaines*
> 
> This is why you buy a cheap multimeter , (no labeling etc) it is actually a heap easier than sleeving a modular!


Thanks for the advice, I have a multimeter









But actually the problem is not about the stickers. It's that for this project each wire will have a different length, so as to introduce some natural curves into the harness. In order to know the lengths I must arrange the wires by hand into approximate position, which is based on two factors: position inside PSU, and end position of the pin at the motherboard end. That's why it was handy to use the labels. Then I must make a 4x6 grid for the PSU end, and a 2x12 grid for the motherboard end. So in this way I can make a calculation for each wire. Something like this:


----------



## marduke83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> Thank you very much for telling what type of sleeving that was. I will definitely keep that in mind in case I do another build with red sleeving. Well I must say it looks really good,even if it is an extension. I just need to learn how to run my wires parrallel to one another. Looking forward to seeing your build finished.
> 
> Wolf_Fangs1381


No problem.







Will definitely post some more pics up in the coming weeks when I am able to get some more work done to it.


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Thanks for the advice, I have a multimeter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But actually the problem is not about the stickers. It's that for this project each wire will have a different length, so as to introduce some natural curves into the harness. In order to know the lengths I must arrange the wires by hand into approximate position, which is based on two factors: position inside PSU, and end position of the pin at the motherboard end. That's why it was handy to use the labels. Then I must make a 4x6 grid for the PSU end, and a 2x12 grid for the motherboard end. So in this way I can make a calculation for each wire. Something like this:


That's a very interesting analysis. You might also consider using the technique we never see of combing the loops to even out both the bend radius and wire lengths.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> That's a very interesting analysis. You might also consider using the technique we never see of combing the loops to even out both the bend radius and wire lengths.


Thank you, but can you explain further your idea? I would guess with the sleeving on, the area next to the connector will become quite bulky?


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marduke83*
> 
> No problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will definitely post some more pics up in the coming weeks when I am able to get some more work done to it.


Sounds good. I'll do the same when ever I get the chance to work on mine. Been to darn busy landscaping my back yard the last few weeks. It must end so I can finish my computer build! lol

Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## Himo5

Hmm, not so simple. But maybe possible with heatshrink for the wire through the combing and then a larger diameter for the sleeving beyond. This is just a bodged example but a more careful technique might work.


----------



## WiSK

Himo, it's interesting, but not clean looking, for me. Still, I like to try your idea one time.

What about using wire with very thin insulation? I have some 0.75 mm2 with something like 1.8 mm diameter insulation. It think it was around 3.3 mm when sleeved, but I don't think it will bend well.


----------



## Himo5

As you first thought, no sleeving is going to get through the combing area.

I even tried it with some of Eric Leung's 2mm Black sleeving on 18awg wire - which nearly ripped my fingerprints off - but there's no way of preventing the bulging effect - even without heatshrink.

However, I'm definitely going to employ this two-stage heatshrink style in my HTPC using wire colours to exploit the black/silver GA-F2A85X-UP4 Gigabyte mobo - especially to get the yellow wires on top in the EPS cable.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Big favor, anyone in here with a Caselabs S8 with custom cables. Can you guys provide the cable lengths you guys used. Will make sure to provide a REP+


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Big favor, anyone in here with a Caselabs S8 with custom cables. Can you guys provide the cable lengths you guys used. Will make sure to provide a REP+


The lengths will to some extent be dependent on your proposed cable routing, the PSU, the motherboard layout and even the connector you use on the PSU. All of that can make a difference.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> The lengths will to some extent be dependent on your proposed cable routing, the PSU, the motherboard layout and even the connector you use on the PSU. All of that can make a difference.


You right, I better take the time on doing the measurement since my preference in cable routing maybe different. I figured that most custom cables in here are already awesome, thought I'd just copy them.

Plus, I still haven't ordered the Caselabs S8 yet, so I can't really measure it yet. Was hoping to have the case and cables to arrive almost the same time.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> You right, I better take the time on doing the measurement since my preference in cable routing maybe different. I figured that most custom cables in here are already awesome, thought I'd just copy them.
> 
> Plus, I still haven't ordered the Caselabs S8 yet, so I can't really measure it yet. Was hoping to have the case and cables to arrive almost the same time.


If you're making your own cables and have a spool of wire, then take the wire (uncut) and run it through the area you'll be routing it. Once you get the wire temporarily placed go ahead and cut it. Then use that piece you've just cut as a template for the rest of the wires you need cut to that length.

Repeat this process for all of your custom cables if it works best for you.


----------



## tinus93

Sooo many colours to choose from. I really like the non glossy ones on the right but then some on the left aswell. Choices choices and even more choices.


----------



## morencyam

I like certain ones on the right more than the left. The red, orange, yellow, and lime green, for example, on the right look much more vibrant than the it's counterpart on the left.


----------



## GringoKillah1

Guys, need help








will this method of double wire will work with PCI-E power Cables without any problem?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> Guys, need help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will this method of double wire will work with PCI-E power Cables without any problem?


Yes it can work. But to be sure please tell me: which model of GPU, which model of PSU.


----------



## GringoKillah1

*WiSK*
GTX 780 + Seasonic 860P


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> *WiSK*
> GTX 780 + Seasonic 860P


Regular GTX 780, with 8pin + 6pin? Yes that's okay to split.

But the PSU has 4 sockets for PCIe cables? Why not just make separate 8pin and 6pin cables? Then you don't have to solder and it looks cleaner.


----------



## GringoKillah1

*WiSK*
A have separate cables, i just need to do one ground wire from 8pin.
i just worried about 2 wires with one cross section wire pass into smaller section can lead to bad consequences?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> *WiSK*
> A have separate cables, i just need to do one ground wire from 8pin.
> i just worried about 2 wires with one cross section wire pass into smaller section can lead to bad consequences?


No consequences for splitting a single ground wire on the 8pin. No problem at all in your situation.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Only possible issue with splitting PCIe wires is total amperage on the 12V live wires. My personal rule is: don't exceed 7 amps on any one pin. For example, if your GPU has 8pin+8pin, then each 12V pin can theoretically carry 4.25 amps. If the source at the PSU side is a single connector, then those 12V pins at the PSU side could reach 8.5 amps. If it was a 8pin+6pin being split then each pin on PSU side could be up to 6.375 amps, which is still okay.


----------



## GringoKillah1

*WiSK*
Wow, thx for answer. Now i can do it even with 24pin wires with no fear. thx and rep+


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> *WiSK*
> Wow, thx for answer. Now i can do it even with 24pin wires with no fear. thx and rep+


Note that my answer was directed to PCIe cables.

But 24 pin is generally no problem either, as long as you are not trying to power TWO motherboards from one PSU!


----------



## GringoKillah1

*WiSK*
No no no, just 3 or 4 double wires


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> *WiSK*
> No no no, just 3 or 4 double wires


Like this then...



Don't forget to add a bit of solder


----------



## Himo5

?


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


Don't need it if you use 60/40 rosin core electrical solder. Stuff's fantastic.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Don't need it if you use 60/40 rosin core electrical solder. Stuff's fantastic.


Yes, rosin core, but always have flux handy just in case you need to reflow something


----------



## Big Elf

Unless you're me and have an allergy to colophonium (rosin) which makes your skin peel off.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Unless you're me and have an allergy to colophonium (rosin) which makes your skin peel off.


You have got to be the unluckiest bloke I know!









Got an idea how to avoid solder for splicing... PM sent


----------



## tinus93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Yes, rosin core, but always have flux handy just in case you need to reflow something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That soldering pen, worst purchase from conrad ever.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinus93*
> 
> That soldering pen, worst purchase from conrad ever.


I love them. Just pull for more solder, no unwinding. And can hold it between my teeth when I'm a short of hands


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I love them. Just pull for more solder, no unwinding. And can hold it between my teeth when I'm a short of hands


Yeah I use the same type of solder. It seems easier to work with because you have more surface area to hold onto vs a cut piece of solder. And you don't burn your finger tips.


----------



## rootwyrm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Yeah I use the same type of solder. It seems easier to work with because you have more surface area to hold onto vs a cut piece of solder. And you don't burn your finger tips.


I prefer spools of 60/40 Rosin and direct feeding off them. But I have an absurd amount of practice doing that and spool holders. Note: don't do this over flammable stuff or stuff you care about. Drip happens. Drip always happens.

In related news: yeah, definitely have to heatshrink and sleeve splices differently from Lutro0's way with how tight I'm pulling the Paracord. That would have been a highly flammable disaster.


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Hey guys,

Is it safe to shorten the 6+2 connector on my pci-e cables? I have 6 inches of wire between the 8-pin and the 6+2-pin connectors and I'd like to shorten it up some. I was also thinking about shortening the wire length between the psu 8-pin and the 8-pin pci-e connectors. Making shorter cables that would come directly from the psu to the graphics cards without going behind the motherboard back plate. What are you thoughts on doing that?

Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## Velict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Yes, rosin core, but always have flux handy just in case you need to reflow something


Pretty crappy solder job .....


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velict*
> 
> Pretty crappy solder job .....


And thank you for taking the time to explain what's wrong with it, and how I can improve


----------



## Vlad7692

Is there a place where I can get sleeved modular cables for a Seasonic X-1050W power supply?
I've checked FrozenCPU, but hey don't exactly have a good selection...


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlad7692*
> 
> Is there a place where I can get sleeved modular cables for a Seasonic X-1050W power supply?
> I've checked FrozenCPU, but hey don't exactly have a good selection...


modDIY








http://www.moddiy.com/brands/Seasonic.html


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rootwyrm*
> 
> I prefer spools of 60/40 Rosin and direct feeding off them. But I have an absurd amount of practice doing that and spool holders. Note: don't do this over flammable stuff or stuff you care about. Drip happens. Drip always happens.
> 
> In related news: yeah, definitely have to heatshrink and sleeve splices differently from Lutro0's way with how tight I'm pulling the Paracord. That would have been a highly flammable disaster.


What do you mean? How is it not turning out for you?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velict*
> 
> Pretty crappy solder job .....


Thats not really helpful at all.

When I use my double wire method I do make sure there is as little wire showing as possible that helps being able to use small amounts of solder and looks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlad7692*
> 
> Is there a place where I can get sleeved modular cables for a Seasonic X-1050W power supply?
> I've checked FrozenCPU, but hey don't exactly have a good selection...


Lutro0 Customs also offers customs cables for all PSUs with lifetime warranties. I have heard mixed reviews about the quality of MODIY


----------



## rootwyrm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> What do you mean? How is it not turning out for you?


Really, really hard to downright impossible to cover the splice if you're yanking the Paracord as tight as I am. And I am yanking it really, really, really tight. Literally, 26" of jacket I'm using <24.5" of 550. Because the splice bulges, obviously things get weird and difficult. And ugly. And potentially unsafe - but I'm paranoid about accidental conduction. (Again, I'm used to PSUs in the multi-kilowatt range.) We'll leave out the part where I damn near got stuck to the paracord.









Solution is really simple though. More solder (okay, so *not* easy) and side-by-side splicing. The tricky bit is finding the right liquid electrical tape when it gets so exact. Gardner-Bender and Plastidip both came out pretty awful, waiting on Permatex to get here. Honestly, given the way the way the split is set up, I probably should have thought of that first.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rootwyrm*
> 
> Really, really hard to downright impossible to cover the splice if you're yanking the Paracord as tight as I am. And I am yanking it really, really, really tight. Literally, 26" of jacket I'm using <24.5" of 550. Because the splice bulges, obviously things get weird and difficult. And ugly. And potentially unsafe - but I'm paranoid about accidental conduction. (Again, I'm used to PSUs in the multi-kilowatt range.) We'll leave out the part where I damn near got stuck to the paracord.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Solution is really simple though. More solder (okay, so *not* easy) and side-by-side splicing. The tricky bit is finding the right liquid electrical tape when it gets so exact. Gardner-Bender and Plastidip both came out pretty awful, waiting on Permatex to get here. Honestly, given the way the way the split is set up, I probably should have thought of that first.


You've got me curious now as well. Can you post a photo of what you're doing?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> When I use my double wire method I do make sure there is as little wire showing as possible that helps being able to use small amounts of solder and looks.


Thank you. Good example of constructive criticism









Unfortunately, in the build that it's for, I'm using wire with very thin insulation (0.3mm wall, wire total OD 1.7mm) due to size constraints of the harness. It's for a ST30SF in a tiny case. Before buying I didn't check the datasheet on the insulation and it seems to melt as soon as the soldering iron touches the wire. If you look at the "before" picture, you see I did intend for the splices to be with much less wire showing. In the "after" picture you can see the insulation has melted away consistently, each time a good 4 or 5mm from the join.

 

I'm absolutely open to criticism about my soldering, because it's something I don't do on a daily basis (prefer to crimp double). I'm trying to make sure it's well interwoven, strands properly cleaned, good solder coverage and looks shiny. Any other tips are welcome.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rootwyrm*
> 
> Really, really hard to downright impossible to cover the splice if you're yanking the Paracord as tight as I am. And I am yanking it really, really, really tight. Literally, 26" of jacket I'm using <24.5" of 550. Because the splice bulges, obviously things get weird and difficult. And ugly. And potentially unsafe - but I'm paranoid about accidental conduction. (Again, I'm used to PSUs in the multi-kilowatt range.) We'll leave out the part where I damn near got stuck to the paracord.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Solution is really simple though. More solder (okay, so *not* easy) and side-by-side splicing. The tricky bit is finding the right liquid electrical tape when it gets so exact. Gardner-Bender and Plastidip both came out pretty awful, waiting on Permatex to get here. Honestly, given the way the way the split is set up, I probably should have thought of that first.


Ahh yes, I understand what your saying. For paracord I normally try to be a bit more exact and then I will put a small piece of heatshrink under the sleeve as well. I like to get the wire inside the other and twist just so it has more wire to wire connection - I dont know if it really makes that much of A difference but I like to do it just to make sure that it has a better connection at least in my opinion But by doing that it does leave a bit of a bulge
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Thank you. Good example of constructive criticism
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, in the build that it's for, I'm using wire with very thin insulation (0.3mm wall, wire total OD 1.7mm) due to size constraints of the harness. It's for a ST30SF in a tiny case. Before buying I didn't check the datasheet on the insulation and it seems to melt as soon as the soldering iron touches the wire. If you look at the "before" picture, you see I did intend for the splices to be with much less wire showing. In the "after" picture you can see the insulation has melted away consistently, each time a good 4 or 5mm from the join.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm absolutely open to criticism about my soldering, because it's something I don't do on a daily basis (prefer to crimp double). I'm trying to make sure it's well interwoven, strands properly cleaned, good solder coverage and looks shiny. Any other tips are welcome.


I'm by far not the greatest at soldering so I'm really not the one to be getting tips but I do show what I know that has worked before. I try to use as little wire as possible and to make sure that I put Just enough solder on there to cover it well. Also just enough wire to do a half twist.


----------



## iBored

I think your's is pretty clean.
My soldering always comes out in clumps, kinda like a tumor under the heatshrink.


----------



## Fade2Black

is there an alternative to heatshrink when using the shrinkless method? i just want to get started with it but my shrink hasn't arrived yet. if there isn't i can just head into town and get some


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> I think your's is pretty clean.
> My soldering always comes out in clumps, kinda like a tumor under the heatshrink.


Best way to avoid that is to put the soldering iron tip under the wire and heat it up with the solder on top so that it flows through the wire strands


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fade2Black*
> 
> is there an alternative to heatshrink when using the shrinkless method? i just want to get started with it but my shrink hasn't arrived yet. if there isn't i can just head into town and get some


I assume you're using PET sleeve as you don't need it for paracord. You can do it using your finger tips to shape and hold the edge of the sleeve. You will however burn your fingers unless you have callouses and it depends how much pain you can stand. I used to do it that way.

You really need heatshrink with at least a 3:1 shrink ratio to do the heatshrinkless method satisfactorily. Also avoid using adhesive lined heatshrink.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Best way to avoid that is to put the soldering iron tip under the wire and heat it up with the solder on top so that it flows through the wire strands


This is how I solder wires together as well. I also put a small bead of solder on the iron before touching the wires, which helps the wire heat up and the solder flow smoother


----------



## Fade2Black

i am using paracord, can't i just melt that onto the pin? i have pliers and a soldering iron


----------



## Big Elf

Easily, check out Lutro0s 



. You don't need a soldering iron, just a lighter.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Best way to avoid that is to put the soldering iron tip under the wire and heat it up with the solder on top so that it flows through the wire strands


I second this.







The solder will melt over the wire before the sheath melts. The solder forms to the wire and is lump free and very clean.

Edit: I third this! Didn't see morencyam's response.


----------



## tinus93

Great news, I am able to get this in bulk







And oh my is it cheap.


----------



## Fade2Black

I've finished sleeving my 24pin connector but I think I may have accidentally mixed over one of the wires. Are there any rm 650 pinout guides that you can send me? Thanks


----------



## morencyam

You might have some luck checking the OCN Repository of PSU Pin Outs


----------



## Fade2Black

I suppose theres no difference between the 650 and 750 apart from power limits


----------



## Fade2Black

Ok, I get it now. I was wrong


----------



## marduke83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> Thank you very much for telling what type of sleeving that was. I will definitely keep that in mind in case I do another build with red sleeving. Well I must say it looks really good,even if it is an extension. I just need to learn how to run my wires parrallel to one another. Looking forward to seeing your build finished.
> 
> Wolf_Fangs1381


Finally got around to finishing up my build. Came out pretty good I think.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marduke83*
> 
> Finally got around to finishing up my build. Came out pretty good I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sleeving looks good


----------



## snef

Hi

a good post about sleeving

I will try my first full custom cable set for my current project and I have some question

first pic of color testing for this project





first question: length
how I can make the cable the right lengh?
ex: I want a special routing to keep cable flat , I need to do cable one by one and check if the spacing between cables , right?

any How to of custom length cablewith this type of rooting?
I know @lowfat are really great with this

and my impression about some sleeving
I tried some different sleeving
MDPC-X, Moddiy, Darkside and a very cheap brand (don't remember name)

the cheap brand go to garbage after 3 cables,
Moddiy, an average sleeving, good color choice, easy to work but too light, we still see the wire, transparent
MDCP-X excellent, easy to work and good color choice
Darkside, excellent, very tight, we don't see the cable again the sleeve, a very good color choice, veru easy to train cable and different color choice of MDPC

now I need to try Lutro sleeving (will order some from E22)


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi
> 
> a good post about sleeving
> 
> snip
> 
> first question: length
> how I can make the cable the right lengh?
> ex: I want a special routing to keep cable flat , I need to do cable one by one and check if the spacing between cables , right?
> 
> any How to of custom length cablewith this type of rooting?
> I know @lowfat are really great with this
> 
> and my impression about some sleeving
> I tried some different sleeving
> MDPC-X, Moddiy, Darkside and a very cheap brand (don't remember name)
> 
> the cheap brand go to garbage after 3 cables,
> Moddiy, an average sleeving, good color choice, easy to work but too light, we still see the wire, transparent
> MDCP-X excellent, easy to work and good color choice
> Darkside, excellent, very tight, we don't see the cable again the sleeve, a very good color choice, veru easy to train cable and different color choice of MDPC
> 
> now I need to try Lutro sleeving (will order some from E22)


You will enjoy the Teleios Sleeving.









Are you wanting to do Extensions or OEM Full Cable Sleeving?


----------



## snef

I will do a full custom set, not an extension


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> snip
> now I need to try Lutro sleeving (will order some from E22)


It might be better if you order direct from Lutro0 instead.


----------



## lowfat

@snef If you want them tied down tight and be exactly in its place it is quite a bit of work. But here is what I would suggest.

I'll spam my pic again just because.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-40.jpg.html

1. Buy a couple sets of the Lutro stealth combs. Use them as combs and to assist w/ guessing wire lengths.

2. Start by cutting wires down to a guestimated length. Then make them another few inches longer than you'll need. Crimp one end of the wires.

3. Shrinkless sleeve one end. Cut/melt off the sleeving at the other end of the wire. Make sure the sleeving is as tight as possible and use a small zip to to hold the sleeving in place. Make it tight.

4. Feed on two stealth combs. One for each end. Account for the invert if you are using a 1:1 PSU. Place all the crimps in to the connector. So you'll have one end of the cable with crimped, sleeved wires in the connector. The remainder just hanging loose unfinished w/ a pair of combs on it.

5. Start routing the cables though the case. Using the combs to keep the cable as straight as possible all the way. If you are doing cable management like I did mine you want lots of tension holding the cables in place.

6. Once you have the cables routed then just start finishing them off one by one. You should have one comb near the end of the cable so it will make guesstimating the required lengths. Although if you are worried make them too long. If the cable ends up being slightly longer you can always cut the end of the cable and recrimp/resleeve.

7. If you used a lot of tension on cable management you should in theory be able to cut off the combs if you don't like the look of them. Or push them out of the way. The cables should hold their place.

8. Profit.









Getting the cables made from someone else who doesn't have the case is IMHO not really possible. You couldn't account for the curves.


----------



## snef

thanks a million time

I will try your steps


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Is there some place in Europe that does sleeving for you? Could I just send my cables (got a fully modular PSU), and they sleeve it for a price? I really want blue and white sleeves, but I just want to know if you guys know a place that does this. I don't want to be messing with it myself.


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> Is there some place in Europe that does sleeving for you? Could I just send my cables (got a fully modular PSU), and they sleeve it for a price? I really want blue and white sleeves, but I just want to know if you guys know a place that does this. I don't want to be messing with it myself.


I can


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> I can


Not to be a d*ck or anything, but I'm very sceptic by nature, and I have trust issues, so first I'd look out for a genuine shop/website that does this, and second I'd be considering having it done by someone "unknown".

But do you have any experience with sleeving? Do you have some pictures maybe? I do appreciate your offer. Really







I have to get my new PSU home though. It's fully modular too.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> Not to be a d*ck or anything, but I'm very sceptic by nature, and I have trust issues, so first I'd look out for a genuine shop/website that does this, and second I'd be considering having it done by someone "unknown".
> 
> But do you have any experience with sleeving? Do you have some pictures maybe? I do appreciate your offer. Really
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to get my new PSU home though. It's fully modular too.


If you're taking this standpoint, be prepared to drop a lot of money. FrozenCPU offers this; you can send in your PSU for single braid but it'll run you about $600 for a fully modular 1000W+ power supply.

I haven't been in the game much lately and am just coming back so someone correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't Lutro0 sleeve PSU's to order?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> If you're taking this standpoint, be prepared to drop a lot of money. FrozenCPU offers this; you can send in your PSU for single braid but it'll run you about $600 for a fully modular 1000W+ power supply.
> 
> I haven't been in the game much lately and am just coming back so someone correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't Lutro0 sleeve PSU's to order?


they certainly do. I thought about doing that but then realized how much less expensive it is to do yourself. However, they do a top notch job. I've seen a lot of pics and they are flawless looking.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> If you're taking this standpoint, be prepared to drop a lot of money. FrozenCPU offers this; you can send in your PSU for single braid but it'll run you about $600 for a fully modular 1000W+ power supply.
> 
> I haven't been in the game much lately and am just coming back so someone correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't Lutro0 sleeve PSU's to order?


Yup, Sure do. We ship world wide all the time as well - so our international shipping is rather cheap.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> If you're taking this standpoint, be prepared to drop a lot of money. FrozenCPU offers this; you can send in your PSU for single braid but it'll run you about $600 for a fully modular 1000W+ power supply.
> 
> I haven't been in the game much lately and am just coming back so someone correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't Lutro0 sleeve PSU's to order?


Yeah, well, $600 is way too much for me, and I'm not really able to ship anything outside Europe, or having anthing shipped to me from outside Europe. There's a lot of fees involved with it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> they certainly do. I thought about doing that but then realized how much less expensive it is to do yourself. However, they do a top notch job. I've seen a lot of pics and they are flawless looking.


I'm already in contact with a couple of people to figure out what to do








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Yup, Sure do. We ship world wide all the time as well - so our international shipping is rather cheap.


I've messaged you regarding my predicament


----------



## OffTheChart

how bad would it be to mix the cables on a 24-pin, between 16AWG and 18AWG?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> how bad would it be to mix the cables on a 24-pin, between 16AWG and 18AWG?


Not bad at all. Depending on manufacturer, often the "control" wires are a smaller gauge than the live wires anyway.


----------



## OffTheChart

awesome and thanx for the quick reply.

have to make splices and I unfortunately only have 18, but it looks like the original is 16 cause they look a lot 'beefier'


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marduke83*
> 
> Finally got around to finishing up my build. Came out pretty good I think.


Very nice!! I like how the white lighting shows off everything inside your case. Very clean looking. Which aio cooler are you running? I will be running the H100i and I bought some red split loom to cover the hoses. I haven't had time to work on mine at all unfortunately. Something always seems to come up when I want to do some work on it. Going to try and work on it some tonight. I've got to remove the +2 of my 6+2-pin on my pic-e cables and I want to shorten them some too. Then I can begin sleeping them. When they're done I can figure out what I'm doing with the 24-pin,8-pin,and 4+4-pin cables from my psu.

Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## The Source

Hey guys is there any place to buy pre cut and pre crimped/pinned wires at lengths of say, 12" for extensions?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Source*
> 
> Hey guys is there any place to buy pre cut and pre crimped/pinned wires at lengths of say, 12" for extensions?


USA - Lutro0
Europe - Bit-tech.pl
Asia - ModDIY

There's probably more


----------



## OffTheChart

another AX1200 bunch but this time, red/black:

http://www.imagebam.com/image/86294a337872196

other side is inverted:



next to the gold/black:

http://www.imagebam.com/image/8036b7337872245


----------



## The Source

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> USA - Lutro0
> Europe - Bit-tech.pl
> Asia - ModDIY
> 
> There's probably more


Thanks. A bit pricier than I expected but I guess theres labor involved to consider.


----------



## OffTheChart

wow ok, so from the 24-pin of a Corsair Sleeved Set, I have now gotten 16AWG, 18AWG and 22AWG


----------



## captaindyson

Hello all, I am trying to decide on a sleeving pattern/colour combo for my build, I am gonna use paracord and the theme of the build is "the humble bumble bee" so I am going black and yellow but can't decide whether to go for black and yellow sleeving on alternating wires / some other pattern or to just do all of them with this black/yellow patterned sleeve (seen below)? What are your opinions? What do you think would look best?


----------



## ozzy1925

i am planning to sleeve my ax 1500i is there any heatshrinkless guide that i can watch?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> wow ok, so from the 24-pin of a Corsair Sleeved Set, I have now gotten 16AWG, 18AWG and 22AWG


That's fine. No need to worry








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captaindyson*
> 
> Hello all, I am trying to decide on a sleeving pattern/colour combo for my build, I am gonna use paracord and the theme of the build is "the humble bumble bee" so I am going black and yellow but can't decide whether to go for black and yellow sleeving on alternating wires / some other pattern or to just do all of them with this black/yellow patterned sleeve (seen below)? What are your opinions? What do you think would look best?


I have to bee honest, black/yellow can look striking but that paracord looks horrible. Like cheap shoelaces.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i am planning to sleeve my ax 1500i is there any heatshrinkless guide that i can watch?


Did you check the sticky threads in this subforum? As well as the Video Guide thread, there is a FAQ and Pin-Out Repository that can answer most questions you have.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i am planning to sleeve my ax 1500i is there any heatshrinkless guide that i can watch?


Lutro0 youtube Channel, you have everything on this, the best guide for sleeving,


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Did you check the sticky threads in this subforum? As well as the Video Guide thread, there is a FAQ and Pin-Out Repository that can answer most questions you have.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Lutro0 youtube Channel, you have everything on this, the best guide for sleeving,


thanks i will try to watch all videos from youtube i hope i dont fail
also would like to know: is it possible to heatshrinkless mod with mdpcsleeve or only plastic type sleeve can be heatshrinkless?

edit:as i read mdpc is plastic sleeving


----------



## Skink910

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captaindyson*
> 
> Hello all, I am trying to decide on a sleeving pattern/colour combo for my build, I am gonna use paracord and the theme of the build is "the humble bumble bee" so I am going black and yellow but can't decide whether to go for black and yellow sleeving on alternating wires / some other pattern or to just do all of them with this black/yellow patterned sleeve (seen below)? What are your opinions? What do you think would look best?


I think going with the alternating black and yellow will look much cleaner! Like WiSK said that patterned one looks like shoelaces... Always sketch up some different patterns as well, you don't have to stay with black/yellow/black/yellow... you can do anything you want, be creative


----------



## stickg1

I think black and yellow looks nice together, I threw in some gray shades with as well.


----------



## captaindyson

Thanks for the quick replies guys, you are of great help 
I will go with separate yellow and black strands then, (now need to find some in stock in the UK!) I like the look of the gray mixed in, but nothing else in my build is gray so it may look a bit odd :-S
Thanks again, and look our for my build log which I may start soon 
Kind Regards


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captaindyson*
> 
> Thanks for the quick replies guys, you are of great help
> I will go with separate yellow and black strands then, (now need to find some in stock in the UK!) I like the look of the gray mixed in, but nothing else in my build is gray so it may look a bit odd :-S
> Thanks again, and look our for my build log which I may start soon
> Kind Regards


E22.biz is the best supplier in the UK for sleeving

black grey and yellow for the win










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> another AX1200 bunch but this time, red/black:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.imagebam.com/image/86294a337872196
> 
> other side is inverted:
> 
> 
> 
> next to the gold/black:
> 
> http://www.imagebam.com/image/8036b7337872245


Is the AX1200 one to one cables? If not how hard is it to get a neat sleeving job?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captaindyson*
> 
> Thanks for the quick replies guys, you are of great help
> I will go with separate yellow and black strands then, (now need to find some in stock in the UK!) I like the look of the gray mixed in, but nothing else in my build is gray so it may look a bit odd :-S
> Thanks again, and look our for my build log which I may start soon
> Kind Regards


----------



## OffTheChart

unfortunately is isn't









although just 1 (#13) is splice, if you just hold the cable in your hand, you can see how badly the criss-crossing also looks

why I took my RM1000 and did what others may have already done on here, which is to make a smaller 'extension' to get rid of it and from there make 1-1 extension where you can also go with full 24-pin and fill that 1 empty one as well.


----------



## captaindyson

Thanks for the link, how does that teleios sleeving compare to paracord? Can it be done shrinkless? Sorry for all the questions, this is my first ever sleeving.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Is the AX1200 one to one cables? If not how hard is it to get a neat sleeving job?


Here's the cable I made for my AX1200. They cross over alot, but they do split into the two at the center. You can still hide it fairly well behind the mobo tray. The combs help greatly in forcing the twists back.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captaindyson*
> 
> Thanks for the link, how does that teleios sleeving compare to paracord? Can it be done shrinkless? Sorry for all the questions, this is my first ever sleeving.


The sleeving I used above is Telios done with the heat shrinkless method in Lutro0's guides on Youtube. They're a little rough since it was my first time and I wasn't willing to go back and do them again, but the method works just fine.


----------



## OffTheChart

DAYUM!!!

that turned out pretty good

maybe if I also added combs but sadly in my case I sleeved over the original sleeving cause it was crimped with the wire









didn't want to redo everything so they are now bit thick for the combs


----------



## chalamah

My first ever sleeve job following LutroO's heatshrinkless guide. First cable of many. Sleeving a new Cooler Master V850. I will be posting some before and after shots when it is all done.


----------



## OffTheChart

my apologies if this is wrong place to ask, but need to find some 16AWG locally but I have no clue what anything in the following means:

http://za.rs-online.com/web/c/cables-wires/wire-single-core-cable/hookup-equipment-wire/?searchTerm=16awg

that is a filtered search for 16AWG and would really appreciate it if someone could advise which of those would work for wiring.

and believe it or not, when I asked on their live chat, the last reply I got was "sorry, we cannot make the decision for you" when I just ask if the person could advise which is the closest to (inserted a link)


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> my apologies if this is wrong place to ask, but need to find some 16AWG locally ...


Why do you need 16 AWG? What are you making?


----------



## OffTheChart

I would really like it because it does give that "fuller" look compared to when using the 18.

unless you get 18 with a thicker wall?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> I would really like it because it does give that "fuller" look compared to when using the 18.
> 
> unless you get 18 with a thicker wall?


Exactly.

Unfortunately on that website you linked, it doesn't seem possible to search on overall diameter. Scratch that found it.


----------



## OffTheChart

2.8mm OD...

that should be nice and 'beefy'

the ones have here is 2mm and they are the ones with the nice look


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> 2.8mm OD...
> 
> that should be nice and 'beefy'
> 
> the ones have here is 2mm and they are the ones with the nice look


2.8mm might be too thick and not crimp well at all. The thickest wire I've used was 2.6mm and that was borderline.


----------



## OffTheChart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> 2.8mm might be too thick and not crimp well at all. The thickest wire I've used was 2.6mm and that was borderline.


yeah, that came to mind as well

think best bet would be to just buy small lengths of each and basically test it

that is how things get done and verified

but thanx for the help/tips peeps


----------



## tinus93

I can confirm that 2.8mm, 2.6mm and 2.4mm OD are too thick for even heatshrinkless. You will have a pain just getting it to fit. 2.2mm is pretty much the max for paracord aswell as PET type sleeving. I use 2.2mm OD 17 AWG wire for my extensions and it works great. If you want to step it down you can also use 2mm 18 AWG wire which is way easier to work with imo. Crimping 16 awg does take time where 18 awg just slips in.


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinus93*
> 
> I can confirm that 2.8mm, 2.6mm and 2.4mm OD are too thick for even heatshrinkless. You will have a pain just getting it to fit. 2.2mm is pretty much the max for paracord aswell as PET type sleeving. I use 2.2mm OD 17 AWG wire for my extensions and it works great. If you want to step it down you can also use 2mm 18 AWG wire which is way easier to work with imo. Crimping 16 awg does take time where 18 awg just slips in.


The OD of UL1007-18awg is officially given as 2.1mm, but Lutro's 18awg seems slightly thicker than this and is certainly stiffer, which makes it easier to get the sleeve on and to train.


----------



## WiSK

I use 2.3mm diameter wire of 0.75mm2 cross-section, which is closer to 19 gauge.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> The OD of UL1007-18awg is officially given as 2.1mm, but Lutro's 18awg seems slightly thicker than this and is certainly stiffer, which makes it easier to get the sleeve on and to train.


UL stands for Underwriters Laboratories, a company that does certification. The official definition of UL1007 is here http://data.ul.com/link/stylepage.aspx?style=1007 and doesn't specify any specific gauge nor outer diameter


----------



## lowfat

Finally finished off my NAS.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-16-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-15-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-17-1.jpg.html


----------



## chalamah

Awesome work lowfat. I have been thinking hard about how i am going to sleeve my sata power connectors but sleeving to the base of connectors (which looks like what you have done) actually looks quite tidy.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

I remember seeing a list somewhere of which power supplies were easiest to sleeve and which had a one to one pinout, does anyone know where that list is or can recommend a power supply with 1 to 1 pinout around 1000W


----------



## CasP3r

There's some info in the Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions thread. As far as I know Silverstone Strider power supplies are some of the most recommended ones for easy sleeving. I don't have any first hand experience with them (or any other power supply to be honest) when it comes to sleeving though.


----------



## CasP3r

24/0.2mm (0,75^2) wire is pretty much the same size as the usually recommended 18awg, right? Which size should I use for making fan extension, fan harnesses and stuff like that?


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasP3r*
> 
> 24/0.2mm (0,75^2) wire is pretty much the same size as the usually recommended 18awg, right? Which size should I use for making fan extension, fan harnesses and stuff like that?


Right, 24/0.2 is the metric equivalent of 18AWG. I use 7/0.2 for fans, splitters etc and 16/0.2 for Cathode lights and LED strips.


----------



## richie_2010

i need to ask a question regarding wires
would you say that 22awg is ok for fans, leds and case wires like the power and reset


----------



## CasP3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Right, 24/0.2 is the metric equivalent of 18AWG. I use 7/0.2 for fans, splitters etc and 16/0.2 for Cathode lights and LED strips.


Allright, thanks.







So 7/0.2 should be enough for three or four fan splitter? And just to check that I have the right wires here:

7/0.2
24/0.2


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasP3r*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Right, 24/0.2 is the metric equivalent of 18AWG. I use 7/0.2 for fans, splitters etc and 16/0.2 for Cathode lights and LED strips.
> 
> 
> 
> Allright, thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So 7/0.2 should be enough for three or four fan splitter? And just to check that I have the right wires here:
> 
> 7/0.2
> 24/0.2
Click to expand...

I use that particular brand of 24/0.2 from Rapid although I haven't used their 7/0.2. The insulation on the 24/0.2 is slightly thicker than normal at 2.3mm which helps 'train' the wires and helps hold their shape when sleeved.

The 7/0.2 you linked to will be enough for 4 fan splitters providing they're not Delta's or other high powered fans. I'd need to ask WiSK for advice if you were using high power draw fans.


----------



## CasP3r

Well that's definitely a nice thing. My case is a CaseLabs S5 where there is practically no place to hide cables, so my goal is to minimize the undesired cable clutter.

I won't be using any high power draw fans, just Corsair SP120's, so I guess that particular wire should work then.


----------



## tinus93

I need a cheaper source for 2.1mm OD 18 AWG and 2.1mm OD 17AWG Or 0.75mm2 and 1mm2 for metrics. I pay 30 and 36 euro for both now for 100m rolls at conrad. I found a site a while back that sorts it by catagory better and was cheaper, it wasn't farnell but I forgot to bookmark it. Anyone have ideas for sources in Europe or the Netherlands is specific?


----------



## WiSK

I buy at Conrad myself. Mostly because of the "free" shipping. Can you link the exact products you buy? I can talk to our procurement guys at my work if they have any connections that can help you.


----------



## fast_fate

Did some SATA cables while watching the World Cup Final.
Congrats Germany









I did a _*how I did it*_ for the cables in my Salive8 build log


----------



## tinus93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I buy at Conrad myself. Mostly because of the "free" shipping. Can you link the exact products you buy? I can talk to our procurement guys at my work if they have any connections that can help you.


I get this for 1mm2 in black/white
http://www.conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/607804/LiY-schakeldraad-1-x-1-mm-Zwart-100-m-Conrad/SHOP_AREA_17416
And this for 0.75mm2 aswell in black/white
http://www.conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/608712/LiY-schakeldraad-1-x-075-mm-Zwart-100-m-Conrad?ref=searchDetail

I tried contacting them through business wholesale but it came out to just the same price EX VAT. That isnt a problem as I can declare them as expenses on my taxes for but its for personal use and I'd rather not do that.


----------



## Janac

I'm sleeving my extensions at the moment. Honestly, I have never find something so difficult in my life like it's removing those ATX connector pins!
I managed to get one out after about 4 hours... using ATX removal tool from .uk ebay for 3 funts and stamples which are now broken.
And another one got stuck in ATX connector...without wire!!!!!!

Anyone else had this much trouble? Any help suggestions?

I pushed my tool as much as it's possible down the pin and it won't come out! Help!









(wait for the pics)


----------



## tinus93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> I'm sleeving my extensions at the moment. Honestly, I have never find something so difficult in my life like it's removing those ATX connector pins!
> I managed to get one out after about 4 hours... using ATX removal tool from .uk ebay for 3 funts and stamples which are now broken.
> And another one got stuck in ATX connector...without wire!!!!!!
> 
> Anyone else had this much trouble? Any help suggestions?
> 
> I pushed my tool as much as it's possible down the pin and it won't come out! Help!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (wait for the pics)


Have you tried pushing the wire in with a plier? For OEM cables/extensions that seems to do it for me. Honestly though if you value your time just make them yourself instead of redoing NZXT/bitfenix or any other OEM extension. I tried this once on a NZXT extension and it took me 6 hours to do just 2. It seems asif those things are glued in with something.


----------



## Janac

Pliers? I am too scared to do that, I mean I already have 1 pin stuck in connector cap, what am I going to do with 2 of them ?


----------



## CasP3r

To me that looks like a tool that you're supposed to use to remove the round pins from 4 pin molex connectors for example. To remove the atx connector pins you want to use one of these:

http://www.e22.biz/ST004LC.aspx


----------



## Big Elf

It's probably one of these tools



It's not a very good tool and will break relatively easily. The one that CasP3r linked to is better by miles. Don't buy from that link though, he may no longer be trading.


----------



## CasP3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> . Don't buy from that link though, he may no longer be trading.


What do you mean? I was going to order some connectors from there myself.


----------



## Big Elf

I made an order a few weeks ago and never got it. When I sent an email to query it I never got a reply. I raised a Paypal dispute and he never responded to that and I got a refund. AFAIK he hasn't replied to Lutro0 either.

Because he's updating his Facebook page he's either pig ignorant or doesn't care.


----------



## gdubc

Damn. That's some bad and sad news. Never got anything from him myself being on this side of the world, but it always sucks to see these places go down. Thought he was a "good one".


----------



## xioros

Will take better pictures when my build is finished


----------



## CasP3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I made an order a few weeks ago and never got it. When I sent an email to query it I never got a reply. I raised a Paypal dispute and he never responded to that and I got a refund. AFAIK he hasn't replied to Lutro0 either.
> 
> Because he's updating his Facebook page he's either pig ignorant or doesn't care.


Oh wow. I had got the impression that he's like one of the best guys to buy from when it comes to water cooling and modding stuff. Apparently that's not the case.

It looks like I need another store to order some connectors from. I'm going to get my sleeving from MDPC, but his connector selection is pretty limited. Are there any other European stores that sell those? Or do I just order from someone like Lutro0?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasP3r*
> 
> Oh wow. I had got the impression that he's like one of the best guys to buy from when it comes to water cooling and modding stuff. Apparently that's not the case.
> 
> It looks like I need another store to order some connectors from. I'm going to get my sleeving from MDPC, but his connector selection is pretty limited. Are there any other European stores that sell those? Or do I just order from someone like Lutro0?


In Europe there is modding.bit-tech.pl (he does nice white connectors and cable combs too) and sleeve-modding.com. And of course Aquatuning sells all kinds of connectors through their Phobya brand.


----------



## Big Elf

Bear in mind that imports from the outside the EU can be liable to import VAT if picked up by Customs in your country.

*Sleeve Modding* has a limited selection of connectors.

Another supplier outside the EU, apart from Lutro0 is *Axon Modding* which is where I got my connectors from when E22 failed to supply. You also run the risk of paying import VAT from them as well although mine was a modest order of £30 worth of connectors and I didn't get charged.

There's quite a few other places that sell connectors but they charge rip-off prices and I'm not going to publicise them.


----------



## OffTheChart

what you learn from having to import stuff and where you pay hectic VAT + Duties...

just buy the proper stuff 1st time and get it done


----------



## GringoKillah1

All this shop are good, but somebody know shop in Europe with assortment like in Moddiy?


----------



## Lavins

Ask and you shall receive.


----------



## Janac

yeeeeeeeees!

got another one pin out after 6 hours and it didn't stuck!









Thats not true. Honestly, I managed to do 2x PCI E extensions without problems so far, metod with pliers worked and it-s worth to take a risk









Have a nice sleep.


----------



## tinus93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lavins*
> 
> Ask and you shall receive.


Soon.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> All this shop are good, but somebody know shop in Europe with assortment like in Moddiy?


Moddiy has the advantage that Hong Kong is very close to a big Chinese city where a lot of these connectors and stuff are manufactured. His prices are very reasonable as is the low shipping. I've ordered there several times but prefer the Polish shop recently because of quicker delivery and no import duty surprises.


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I've ordered there several times but prefer the Polish shop recently because of quicker delivery and no import duty surprises.


hmm, in Polish shop i dont see 80% of things what i need. But i dont want wait 3-4 weeks my pack from ModDiy, ehh seems like i have no choice....








Thx for answer


----------



## ACallander

I suck and got the EVGA already sleeved cables. Is there a way I can keep the cables laid out flat, similar to a zip tie but not bunched up?


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACallander*
> 
> I suck and got the EVGA already sleeved cables. Is there a way I can keep the cables laid out flat, similar to a zip tie but not bunched up?


*Cable Combs*


----------



## {uZa}DOA

I think Kobra HD is just as good as MDPC sleeving. Can be had at FrozenCPU.


----------



## Big Elf

It costs more though so I suppose it depends on whether the shipping costs makes a difference.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{uZa}DOA*
> 
> I think Kobra HD is just as good as MDPC sleeving. Can be had at FrozenCPU.


Is it just that you didn't stretch it?


----------



## {uZa}DOA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> It costs more though so I suppose it depends on whether the shipping costs makes a difference.


Problem with MDPC is the small window of ordering opportunity.. Don't get me wrong it is great stuff to work with tho...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Is it just that you didn't stretch it?


Correct wasn't stretched/tightened yet..


----------



## Big Elf

MDPC-X is open all the time now and has been for about a year.


----------



## CasP3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> In Europe there is modding.bit-tech.pl (he does nice white connectors and cable combs too) and sleeve-modding.com. And of course Aquatuning sells all kinds of connectors through their Phobya brand.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Bear in mind that imports from the outside the EU can be liable to import VAT if picked up by Customs in your country.
> 
> *Sleeve Modding* has a limited selection of connectors.
> 
> Another supplier outside the EU, apart from Lutro0 is *Axon Modding* which is where I got my connectors from when E22 failed to supply. You also run the risk of paying import VAT from them as well although mine was a modest order of £30 worth of connectors and I didn't get charged.
> 
> There's quite a few other places that sell connectors but they charge rip-off prices and I'm not going to publicise them.


Thank you both. I'll have a look and see which one of those has the stuff I need.


----------



## Alvarez

Gentlemen i have a question,

I went to a local store today for a heat gun for heatshrinks but couldnt find something "ok" because i intend to use it once, for shrinks. Now i can get Monsoon heat gun (one comes with acrylic tube pack) for my future build.

Will it be enough for heatshrinks or should i relook the stuff i saw today ? If it will perform good enough i will get monsoon heatgun which is 50% cheaper than i saw today.

And meantime i`d like to ask something about paracords, are they safe ? Wont i burn my aparment with a electrical fault or something ? lol

Serious question btw.

Thanks in advance


----------



## Big Elf

Even a cheap heatgun will work fine. If you give a link to what you're thinking of buying someone will comment on it.

The Monsoon Heat Gun looks OK and seems to be a decent price.

Providing you make your cables up correctly you shouldn't have a problem with the wires being sleeved. It's not the paracord (or PET sleeve) that will cause a problem it's poor workmanship on the wire assembly and splicing. Most decent PSUs have short circuit protection which should prevent any major mishaps.


----------



## Alvarez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Even a cheap heatgun will work fine. If you give a link to what you're thinking of buying someone will comment on it.
> 
> The Monsoon Heat Gun looks OK and seems to be a decent price.
> 
> Providing you make your cables up correctly you shouldn't have a problem with the wires being sleeved. It's not the paracord (or PET sleeve) that will cause a problem it's poor workmanship on the wire assembly and splicing. Most decent PSUs have short circuit protection which should prevent any major mishaps.


Hello, that is the heatgun:

http://www.aquatuning.ch/water-cooling/tubing/acrylic-tubes-acessories/17572/monsoon-hardline-pro-heissluftpistole-fuer-acrylrohre?c=3241

Regarding cables and quality, i will probably sleeve my existing red ModSmart 24pin ATX extension with MDCP sleeves, i also have thermaltake PSU (currently) i might use its molex and 6 pin connectors


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alvarez*
> 
> Gentlemen i have a question,
> 
> I went to a local store today for a heat gun for heatshrinks but couldnt find something "ok" because i intend to use it once, for shrinks. Now i can get Monsoon heat gun (one comes with acrylic tube pack) for my future build.
> 
> Will it be enough for heatshrinks or should i relook the stuff i saw today ? If it will perform good enough i will get monsoon heatgun which is 50% cheaper than i saw today.
> 
> And meantime i`d like to ask something about paracords, are they safe ? Wont i burn my aparment with a electrical fault or something ? lol
> 
> Serious question btw.
> 
> Thanks in advance


The Monsoon will work perfectly fine. It isn't a terrible heat gun.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alvarez*
> 
> Gentlemen i have a question,
> 
> I went to a local store today for a heat gun for heatshrinks but couldnt find something "ok" because i intend to use it once, for shrinks. Now i can get Monsoon heat gun (one comes with acrylic tube pack) for my future build.
> 
> Will it be enough for heatshrinks or should i relook the stuff i saw today ? If it will perform good enough i will get monsoon heatgun which is 50% cheaper than i saw today.
> 
> And meantime i`d like to ask something about paracords, are they safe ? Wont i burn my aparment with a electrical fault or something ? lol
> 
> Serious question btw.
> 
> Thanks in advance


I would suggest not getting a heatgun and going heatshrinkless. If your using paracord you just need a bic lighter same if you are using an pet sleeving. Also its a much easier method, however if you are dead set on sleeving heatshrink style I suggest using an 18awg wire with a thinner insulation and getting the LC Sleeving Tool to help you line up your sleeve. The wire and heatshrink you use is super important when sleeving with heatshrink and they are the most commonly overlooked and it makes the difference between having a fun time sleeving and wanting to kill something halfway through.

http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-sleeving-tool


----------



## lowfat

Not all wires in a system can be heatshrinkless though. So he should still have a heat gun. Sounds like he is using acrylic tubing if he was just going to use the Monsoon one.


----------



## Alvarez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I would suggest not getting a heatgun and going heatshrinkless. If your using paracord you just need a bic lighter same if you are using an pet sleeving. Also its a much easier method, however if you are dead set on sleeving heatshrink style I suggest using an 18awg wire with a thinner insulation and getting the LC Sleeving Tool to help you line up your sleeve. The wire and heatshrink you use is super important when sleeving with heatshrink and they are the most commonly overlooked and it makes the difference between having a fun time sleeving and wanting to kill something halfway through.
> 
> http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-sleeving-tool


Thanks for the response,

What scares the most with heatshrinkless method is that the possibility of burning the wire with lighter while i'm fixing the the cord. I won't be cutting headers of pins just remove current sleeves and replace them with all white

(Awesome job and videos btw, i'm seriously considering sleeving job -despite the time and the effort- thanks to your videos and awesome results you've achieved sir







)


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alvarez*
> 
> What scares the most with heatshrinkless method is that the possibility of burning the wire with lighter while i'm fixing the the cord. I won't be cutting headers of pins just remove current sleeves and replace them with all white
> 
> (Awesome job and videos btw, i'm seriously considering sleeving job -despite the time and the effort- thanks to your videos and awesome results you've achieved sir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


With heatshrinkless method you still use heatshrink, exactly for that reason, to protect the sleeve and wire from melting. Then you remove it leaving only the "heatshrinkless" sleeve.





 shows it perfectly


----------



## Alvarez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> With heatshrinkless method you still use heatshrink, exactly for that reason, to protect the sleeve and wire from melting. Then you remove it leaving only the "heatshrinkless" sleeve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shows it perfectly


Roger that, i'm gonna re-check tutorials, thanks for all the help


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{uZa}DOA*
> 
> I think Kobra HD is just as good as MDPC sleeving. Can be had at FrozenCPU.


I really like that blue your using. I'm thinking of maybe upgrading my first build case sometime in the future. I've been thinking about doing that case with a blue theme. That blue your using just might be the one I use along with a medium or dark blue.

On another note,I have heard 1 to 1 mentioned a few times since I joined this website and have been meaning to ask. What exactly is a 1 to 1 psu? This whole sleeving thing is still new to me so I'm still learning. I'm using a Thermaltake Toughpower XT Gold 1375w psu for the build I'm working on,is it a 1 to 1 psu?

Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> ...On another note,I have heard 1 to 1 mentioned a few times since I joined this website and have been meaning to ask. What exactly is a 1 to 1 psu? This whole sleeving thing is still new to me so I'm still learning. I'm using a Thermaltake Toughpower XT Gold 1375w psu for the build I'm working on,is it a 1 to 1 psu?
> 
> Wolf_Fangs1381


1 to 1 refers to a fully modular 24 pin cable that has no dual wires and the connector match exactly at both the PSU and Motherboard ends. The idea is that they'll look a lot neater when sleeved as there's no dual wires. In practice most of the 1 to 1 PSU actually have the pins reversed so the wires end up twisted. The only ones I've sleeved have been Silverstone and they're a pain to sleeve just as much as those with dual wires.

Your Thermaltake has a captive 24 Pin Cable.


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> 1 to 1 refers to a fully modular 24 pin cable that has no dual wires and the connector match exactly at both the PSU and Motherboard ends. The idea is that they'll look a lot neater when sleeved as there's no dual wires. In practice most of the 1 to 1 PSU actually have the pins reversed so the wires end up twisted. The only ones I've sleeved have been Silverstone and they're a pain to sleeve just as much as those with dual wires.
> 
> Your Thermaltake has a captive 24 Pin Cable.


Thank you for explaining it. I've always liked Thermaltake psu's and have used them in all my builds. Now I just wish my Thermaltake was fully modular. It would make sleeving the 24-pin so much easier. And as you said look so much neater. I hope 1 to 1 becomes standard for all psu suppliers. I'll be re-sleeving my 24-pin like it comes stock. I'll also have to do the with the 8-pin and 4+4-pin. Might not look the neatest,but it'll have to do. Now I just have to get them done.









Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## Big Elf

If you've got the space in your case to hide the cables just make extensions.

One way to get round the wires not being 1 to 1 on modular PSUs is to make a small extension with all the dual wires spliced and twisted and then make a normal extension:



Image is set of 24 pin cables and extension for a SeaSonic X Series PSU.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Could you guys maybe recommend cable sleeve colors for this motherboard inside an all-black case?

http://www.asrock.com/mb/photo/990FX%20Extreme4(m).jpg


----------



## lowfat

Silverstones are awesome PSUs to sleeve IMO. They are the only brand I will buy because of how standard their wiring and connectors are.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> Could you guys maybe recommend cable sleeve colors for this motherboard inside an all-black case?
> 
> http://www.asrock.com/mb/photo/990FX%20Extreme4(m).jpg


A dark blue as the primary and white for a highlight is what I would personally do.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Silly question, where would I find the custom cable generator tool that allows you to put together a pattern?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Silly question, where would I find the custom cable generator tool that allows you to put together a pattern?


http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/?p=535c314c027ef


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/?p=535c314c027ef


You are the man! Thank you! +1


----------



## D1RTYD1Z619

Where can I get some sleeves like the ones Antec uses on their PSUs? They call it "Cobra"


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D1RTYD1Z619*
> 
> Where can I get some sleeves like the ones Antec uses on their PSUs? They call it "Cobra"


If that is Kobra sleeving then FrozenCPU comes to mind first because they do such a full range, including mini-spools, but do a search for Mod/Smart Kobra sleeving and you should come up with a fair selection of suppliers, such as Performance-Pcs or Jab-Tech. You can even get it on Amazon.


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> If you've got the space in your case to hide the cables just make extensions.
> 
> One way to get round the wires not being 1 to 1 on modular PSUs is to make a small extension with all the dual wires spliced and twisted and then make a normal extension:
> 
> Image is set of 24 pin cables and extension for a SeaSonic X Series PSU.


Yeah my case has some room behind the secondary case door. But I don't know how it would look with all wires sleeved together coming from the psu. Then an extension that is sleeved like your top picture to the motherboard. I am starting to really like the individual wire sleeved look for all the psu cables. The only cables that I'll have individually sleeved are my pci-e cables,and my 4-pin power and sata cables when I get to them. I need to post a picture of them cause I may have crossed a wire by accident when I removed the stock sleeving.







All my other cables have been sleeved but I left a small portion of the wires exposed near the connectors. Those being my front panel,fan,and cold cathode cables. You can see what I mean if you look at my photo albums. I really need to get on this and get my build finished but I'm at a stand still as to what to do with my 24-pin,8-pin,and 4+4-pin coming from my psu.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> Could you guys maybe recommend cable sleeve colors for this motherboard inside an all-black case?


I would do a triple color combo using black,medium blue,and white.

Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Silverstones are awesome PSUs to sleeve IMO. They are the only brand I will buy because of how standard their wiring and connectors are.
> A dark blue as the primary and white for a highlight is what I would personally do.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> I would do a triple color combo using black,medium blue,and white.
> 
> Wolf_Fangs1381


I thought about something like that too. I don't quite know if it's too expensive yet. The money will probably be worth it though. But still, if you don't have much to work with money wise (I need to save a lot of money to get what I want, hehe), then you kind of need to decide what to do, and plan ahead a lot.

What if I go for pre-sleeved extensions? I buy stuff at Caseking.de, and they have some Bitfenix extensions, but sadly only in one color each. I was either thinking all blue, all white or all black extensions? What could maybe fit better?


----------



## OffTheChart

didn't come out too bad:

http://www.imagebam.com/image/4d1ea1339175199 http://www.imagebam.com/image/6542bd339175223 http://www.imagebam.com/image/5912d1339175242

though I am short on some bigger HS to go over the whole thing in one piece.

waiting on that this week.


----------



## D1RTYD1Z619

My bad I should have been more specific. Antec calls the pattern of the cable "cobra". Its the pattern I'm looking for.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Not all wires in a system can be heatshrinkless though. So he should still have a heat gun. Sounds like he is using acrylic tubing if he was just going to use the Monsoon one.


Yes, but even on double wires I use a lighter now, only time I use a heatgun is when I do a heatshrink style cable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alvarez*
> 
> Thanks for the response,
> 
> What scares the most with heatshrinkless method is that the possibility of burning the wire with lighter while i'm fixing the the cord. I won't be cutting headers of pins just remove current sleeves and replace them with all white
> 
> (Awesome job and videos btw, i'm seriously considering sleeving job -despite the time and the effort- thanks to your videos and awesome results you've achieved sir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Thanks for the compliments!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> didn't come out too bad:
> 
> though I am short on some bigger HS to go over the whole thing in one piece.
> 
> waiting on that this week.


Remember that you can stretch heatshrink quite a bit and it will shrink down to what it was supposed to. I find it looks cleaner to use one or two pieces ontop of eachother instead of the three pieces but thats my preference.


----------



## OffTheChart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Remember that you can stretch heatshrink quite a bit and it will shrink down to what it was supposed to. I find it looks cleaner to use one or two pieces ontop of eachother instead of the three pieces but thats my preference.


no definitely, but I think it is the quality of my shrink that is preventing me to do so









cheap local stuff that was just bought as test anyway

as said, waiting on some shrink of bigger size so I can go over that with just one big piece.

I just find it difficult if you trying to use only a bit of shrink, to have it 'grasp' the paracord.

was it you that mentioned that the paracord needs lengthier pieces of shrink to 'hold on to'??

ag, I am still figuring out the splices part so it is fun to see the outcomes.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> no definitely, but I think it is the quality of my shrink that is preventing me to do so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cheap local stuff that was just bought as test anyway
> 
> as said, waiting on some shrink of bigger size so I can go over that with just one big piece.
> 
> I just find it difficult if you trying to use only a bit of shrink, to have it 'grasp' the paracord.
> 
> was it you that mentioned that the paracord needs lengthier pieces of shrink to 'hold on to'??
> 
> ag, I am still figuring out the splices part so it is fun to see the outcomes.


Yes I do suggest a bit more heatshrink when using paracord, but for joints like this I put brush on superglue on the bottom wire and right under the heatshrink, this makes the joint super strong.


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> I thought about something like that too. I don't quite know if it's too expensive yet. The money will probably be worth it though. But still, if you don't have much to work with money wise (I need to save a lot of money to get what I want, hehe), then you kind of need to decide what to do, and plan ahead a lot.
> 
> What if I go for pre-sleeved extensions? I buy stuff at Caseking.de, and they have some Bitfenix extensions, but sadly only in one color each. I was either thinking all blue, all white or all black extensions? What could maybe fit better?


I am sleeving my pci-e cables,my 4-pin power cable,and my data cables. So far it's cost me a pretty penny to do it. But I wasn't happy with how my pci-e cables turned out so I had to buy more sleeving to redo them. I should have bought double the sleeving than I actually needed as this is my first time sleeving. It is pretty expensive to do it yourself but it is definitely worth it. I understand the money situation though. I had to save up for the components I wanted. But definitely plan ahead if you decide to do it yourself.

As for going with pre-sleeved extensions,if they aren't to pricey you could buy one of each (blue,white,black) and create the color scheme you want using the three extensions. Wouldn't be to bad if the 24-pin extension is 1 to 1. Say you use the black extension to create your color scheme with. Remove a black wire and remove either a blue or white wire and put it in it's place. Keep doing that until the extension is how you want it. Might be able to even do that with other extensions.

Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> ...Say you use the black extension to create your color scheme with. Remove a black wire and remove either a blue or white wire and put it in it's place. Keep doing that until the extension is how you want it. Might be able to even do that with other extensions.
> 
> Wolf_Fangs1381


and then sell the spares


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> I am sleeving my pci-e cables,my 4-pin power cable,and my data cables. So far it's cost me a pretty penny to do it. But I wasn't happy with how my pci-e cables turned out so I had to buy more sleeving to redo them. I should have bought double the sleeving than I actually needed as this is my first time sleeving. It is pretty expensive to do it yourself but it is definitely worth it. I understand the money situation though. I had to save up for the components I wanted. But definitely plan ahead if you decide to do it yourself.
> 
> As for going with pre-sleeved extensions,if they aren't to pricey you could buy one of each (blue,white,black) and create the color scheme you want using the three extensions. Wouldn't be to bad if the 24-pin extension is 1 to 1. Say you use the black extension to create your color scheme with. Remove a black wire and remove either a blue or white wire and put it in it's place. Keep doing that until the extension is how you want it. Might be able to even do that with other extensions.
> 
> Wolf_Fangs1381


I've been PM'ing with GringoKillah1 about him sleeving the cables for me. He's got a really fair price, and I just have to send him the total amount, and he'll get the wires, connectors, sleeves, and he'll even ship it to me. Only problem is, it's still pretty expensive to do, although his price is really fair.

If I have to buy multitudes of pre-sleeved extensions, then I might as well get GringoKillah1 to custom make it for me







But thanks for the suggestion, though. If I decide to buy extension cables, I think I'll go for blue.

Right now, I'm really pumped about the idea of the custom sleeved ones. Wasn't there a website, where you could kind of see, what your individual cables will look like? I think I saw it in here somewhere...


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> Wasn't there a website, where you could kind of see, what your individual cables will look like? I think I saw it in here somewhere...


James mentioned it yesterday








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/?p=535c314c027ef


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> James mentioned it yesterday


Ah, yes! Must've had my mind elsewhere. Thanks for linking it to me. I appreciate it


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> and then sell the spares











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*
> 
> I've been PM'ing with GringoKillah1 about him sleeving the cables for me. He's got a really fair price, and I just have to send him the total amount, and he'll get the wires, connectors, sleeves, and he'll even ship it to me. Only problem is, it's still pretty expensive to do, although his price is really fair.
> 
> If I have to buy multitudes of pre-sleeved extensions, then I might as well get GringoKillah1 to custom make it for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But thanks for the suggestion, though. If I decide to buy extension cables, I think I'll go for blue.
> 
> Right now, I'm really pumped about the idea of the custom sleeved ones. Wasn't there a website, where you could kind of see, what your individual cables will look like? I think I saw it in here somewhere...


It's not cheap that's for sure. I've spent more than I planned too. But I know the end result will be worth the cost,time and effort. If you do decide to purchase extensions I was also thinking blue would be the best choice. And your welcome for the suggestion.

Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## OffTheChart

after putting over 1 big piece:



really not too bad and I don't mind the 'bulges' too much... it will be hidden away anyway


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> after putting over 1 big piece:
> 
> snip
> 
> really not too bad and I don't mind the 'bulges' too much... it will be hidden away anyway


A tip. Make sure the sleeving at the splice is secure and glued well onto the cable then only heatshrink enough to hold the outer piece in place. The best example I've seen of this is from Ontic. You don't get all the bumps and lumps that way. Even if it's hidden it should still be good.


----------



## OffTheChart

yep, I have seen his sleeving and it makes you turn green









the paracord is just too fussy for me compared to PET

luckily I can now do some tests and see which is best/easiest method

need to maybe try and also get some of this brush-on glue

his also seems to have a nice thick wall?


----------



## marvin968

Getting ready for my sleeving weekend.


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Hey guy's I got another question,yeah I know I ask to many questions. lol But hey,if you don't ask you don't learn. Okay,now to the question,is 95/5 alloy solder good for soldering computer wires and pins? It is all I got on hand and I am going to have to do some soldering as I'm removing the +2 from my pci-e 6+2-pin connector as I don't need it. I also may solder all my pins just for added strength. If there is something else you'd rather recommend I'd appreciate it.

Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## morencyam

Why remove it at all? Why not just tuck it hidden away in case you ever upgrade and need it. That's what I did with all my +2 connectors. As far as soldering the pins, the pins used are made to be crimp only so soldering is unnecessary. It wouldn't harm anything, but kind of a waste of time IMHO.

But to kind of answer your question, I use 60/40 solder for all my soldering at home and work, whether it be wires, circuit boards, etc


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> Hey guy's I got another question,yeah I know I ask to many questions. lol But hey,if you don't ask you don't learn. Okay,now to the question,is 95/5 alloy solder good for soldering computer wires and pins? It is all I got on hand and I am going to have to do some soldering as I'm removing the +2 from my pci-e 6+2-pin connector as I don't need it. I also may solder all my pins just for added strength. If there is something else you'd rather recommend I'd appreciate it.
> 
> Wolf_Fangs1381


Personally, I use 60/40 electrical solder, but to each his own, I suppose. If you can get away with 95/5 alloy, and you can make clean joints, more power to you.


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Why remove it at all? Why not just tuck it hidden away in case you ever upgrade and need it. That's what I did with all my +2 connectors. As far as soldering the pins, the pins used are made to be crimp only so soldering is unnecessary. It wouldn't harm anything, but kind of a waste of time IMHO.
> 
> But to kind of answer your question, I use 60/40 solder for all my soldering at home and work, whether it be wires, circuit boards, etc


With my current graphics cards being 7970's the +2 connectors aren't needed. So I'd rather just remove them and if I were to upgrade in the future using the same psu,I can simply add the +2 connectors back. But I don't plan on upgrading any time soon. Sadly my finances aren't going to allow for that and not for quite some time. And I don't mind the extra time involved.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Personally, I use 60/40 electrical solder, but to each his own, I suppose. If you can get away with 95/5 alloy, and you can make clean joints, more power to you.


I know I have another spool of soldering wire somewhere but I can't locate it and don't know what type it is either. So 95/5 is all I have on hand. I'm also pretty darn good at making nice and clean solder joints with it. Got a lot of experience with it wiring old Harley Davidson motorcycles.









Update: I managed to find that other spool of soldering wire I mentioned. And guess what,it's 60/40 rosin. Don't have much experience with it though. Might have to do a test run with it and see if I like it better. Then I'll go from there.

Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## ACallander

I'd like to cable comb my EVGA sleeved cables for my 750g2 psu. I want to use the stealth combs. Is it hard to remove the pins, put the combs on and reinsert the pins back in the connectors?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Finally finished the 24 pin cable... Dear EVGA, stop using proprietary connectors!! But continue to make excellent PSUs!









Lutro0 Customs Teleios sleeving using the heatshrinkless method. I figured I'd go all out for my first time.


I apologize for the lack of a better pic. I'm too tired to bust out the better camera.


----------



## marvin968

@wolfsbora - nice work!

I also finished my 1st sleeving attempt on my fsp everest 700


Now i need me some combs.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marvin968*
> 
> @wolfsbora - nice work!
> 
> I also finished my 1st sleeving attempt on my fsp everest 700
> 
> 
> Now i need me some combs.


Thanks, Marvin! Looks great!

I am trying to decide on if I'm doing stitched or combs.


----------



## Brian18741

I much prefer the look of stitching FWIW.

Have many people made new cables for the EVGA Supernova G2 1000w?

What do you do about the capacitors on the 24 pin? Can they be left out of the new cable? What do they do?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> *I much prefer the look of stitching FWIW.*
> 
> Have many people made new cables for the EVGA Supernova G2 1000w?
> 
> What do you do about the capacitors on the 24 pin? Can they be left out of the new cable? What do they do?


This. I found a really easy guide too. CLICK HERE

Brian, I have heard of other having the same issue and in most cases the caps are able to be removed without effecting any performance. But I would wait for someone else, who possibly has that same PSU, to chime in with a more sure answer


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> I much prefer the look of stitching FWIW.
> 
> Have many people made new cables for the EVGA Supernova G2 1000w?
> 
> What do you do about the capacitors on the 24 pin? Can they be left out of the new cable? What do they do?


I chose to leave them off on my 1300 G2. The double wires were bad enough to do. If I see any degradation I will add the caps but I heard from various trustworthy sources that they are not necessary. On the flip side I also read on another forum that they help with ripple suppression.


----------



## marvin968

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> This. I found a really easy guide too. CLICK HERE
> 
> Brian, I have heard of other having the same issue and in most cases the caps are able to be removed without effecting any performance. But I would wait for someone else, who possibly has that same PSU, to chime in with a more sure answer


Thanks for the link. I'll definitely consider this. All i need now is some free time. Lol.


----------



## Friction

When you make extension cables, how shorter do you make one side do get that perfect bend?


----------



## tinus93

About 1/2 to 3/4 inches. 1 inch gives me a perfect bend for routing it behind the mobo tray aswell. The first two I only really use for pictures as it looks tighter.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> When you make extension cables, how shorter do you make one side do get that perfect bend?


It depends on the angle of the bend, I use 7mm for every 45º up to a max of 21mm.


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinus93*
> 
> About 1/2 to 3/4 inches. 1 inch gives me a perfect bend for routing it behind the mobo tray aswell. The first two I only really use for pictures as it looks tighter.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> It depends on the angle of the bend, I use 7mm for every 45º up to a max of 21mm.


Thank you both.
Elf that is exactly the kind of imformation I was looking for. +Rep.


----------



## Blaise170

Could someone explain the differences between these materials to me?

http://www.mimic-cables.com/pages/faq


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Could someone explain the differences between these materials to me?
> 
> http://www.mimic-cables.com/pages/faq


Not sure how to explain better than what's already there. The two most popular in the custom PC world is paracord and MDPC(and things similar to MDPC like Lutro0 Teleios, Kobra, Techflex, etc). Paracord has the same look and feel as most shoe laces. Soft, fuzzy, and very flexible. MDPC is more of a stiff plastic, like what is around most power supply 24-pin connector bundle. It's a little stiffer but holds its shape very well. I've used both MDPC and Paracord and much prefer MDPC style sleeving.

EDIT: if you click where is says "MDPC" on the FAQ page to bring up the image, the blue sleeve is MDPC and the black sleeve over the connectors is more of a paracord style sleeve.

EDIT2: looking at the prices of the sleeved cables, they are way over priced. If you need sleeve or pre-sleeved cables, check out Lutro0-Customs or Ensourced Custom Sleeved Cables


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Not sure how to explain better than what's already there. The two most popular in the custom PC world is paracord and MDPC(and things similar to MDPC like Lutro0 Teleios, Kobra, Techflex, etc). Paracord has the same look and feel as most shoe laces. Soft, fuzzy, and very flexible. MDPC is more of a stiff plastic, like what is around most power supply 24-pin connector bundle. It's a little stiffer but holds its shape very well. I've used both MDPC and Paracord and much prefer MDPC style sleeving.
> 
> EDIT: if you click where is says "MDPC" on the FAQ page to bring up the image, the blue sleeve is MDPC and the black sleeve over the connectors is more of a paracord style sleeve.
> 
> EDIT2: looking at the prices of the sleeved cables, they are way over priced. If you need sleeve or pre-sleeved cables, check out Lutro0-Customs or Ensourced Custom Sleeved Cables


Yeah the images helped. I'm specifically looking for USB Micro cables and I don't feel like sleeving it myself since I don't have the tools. Mimic is the only place in the US I've found and the only other was based in the UK.


----------



## morencyam

@Lutro0 is US based. I'd maybe send him a PM on here and see if he can do anything for you. I think Ensourced might be US Based as well(at least that's my assumption because it says "free shipping on all cable orders within the US")


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> @Lutro0 is US based. I'd maybe send him a PM on here and see if he can do anything for you. I think Ensourced might be US Based as well(at least that's my assumption because it says "free shipping on all cable orders within the US")


I know but he doesn't have the patterned paracord that I've found on Mimic. I don't see it being cheap anyways since most people don't want to do an order for just one cable.


----------



## OffTheChart

would this be the correct terminal: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0039000078_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml

trying to get a crimper locally, but now I need to give a molex part number.

obviously on THIS page, any would work? well any in the 16 or 18AWG range yes?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> would this be the correct terminal: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0039000078_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml
> 
> trying to get a crimper locally, but now I need to give a molex part number.
> 
> obviously on THIS page, any would work? well any in the 16 or 18AWG range yes?


The 16AWG pins will only work with the official molex crimper or the SN-28B. They are not advised for the MDPC / Lutro crimper.


----------



## OffTheChart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> The 16AWG pins will only work with the official molex crimper or the SN-28B. They are not advised for the MDPC / Lutro crimper.


awesome

yeah the SN-28B is what I am after, but just checking if I can't get anything local

if not, hopefully the MODDIY one is still $40 with free shipping

actually just wanted to try the die from Lutro0, but has been about 2 weeks and order still unconfirmed

(know he made announcement of family troubles)


----------



## Big Elf

If you're going to get an SN-28B rather than a decent too then it really needs modding to avoid crushing the wire. Although I modded my own *Sleeve Modding* sells one that's been adjusted to crimp better although I haven't tried it.


----------



## WiSK

Indeed, Big Elf. The best thing is just to get the MDPC or Lutro tool and use the normal 18 AWG pins - you can still use it with 16 AWG wire, it's just the pins I've been talking about.


----------



## OffTheChart

hmmmm

crushes the wire??

thing is, I have the MDPC one, although it is one of the initials and it crushes that back part of the pin quite badly.

it is said that they have been fixed to crimp better?

so guess waiting on the die from Lutro0 would be best bet then?


----------



## Big Elf

Either the wire you're using is too thick or your MDPC-X tool needs the dies adjusting.


----------



## gdubc

If you still haven't gotten confirmation for your order, have you tried an email to [email protected]? They were having email troubles as well so you might need to try that.


----------



## OffTheChart

sorry, these aren't the best pics:

 

do they look alright?

any1 with an MDPC crimper, on which 'setting' is your retention? if that even matters.

currently mine is on the 2nd circle from the - side

@gdubc just sent an email to that one, thanks... holding thumbs


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> thing is, I have the MDPC one, although it is one of the initials and it crushes that back part of the pin quite badly.


Something like described in this thread http://www.overclock.net/t/1315381/adjusting-mdpc-crimper#post_18349116 ?



Easily fixed


----------



## OffTheChart

sorry, not that part (should have stated not the back, back part)

the part that gets crimped onto the exposed wires


----------



## Big Elf

Unfortunately the photo isn't focused enough so I can't see what's happening to the crimp. I can see that the wire is very thick, what diameter is it? Also the wire isn't pushed into the pin enough, the insulation should be butting against the conductor (wire) crimp.



The crimp pressure setting is normally at the lowest on the MDPC-X tool.

Can you do some more photos of the crimp showing the problem and close ups of the tools' dies?


----------



## OffTheChart

will give it a shot... otherwise I will try get a camera tomorrow

it is 2mm wire

if you check this one:



if you look at the 'back' where the wire meets the pin, there is a 2 and then a 5 below it (closest to the wire)...

if you look just above the 2, you will see two 'extruded' lines going across the pin.

now if you look at that part, then the piece away from us if sticking out/up, while the piece closest to us is crimped better.

in a nut shell: that part seems to be flattened as a part from being more rounded??


----------



## Big Elf

Is that 2mm wire strand diameter? The wire with insulation looks closer to 2.8-3.0mm.

I've had another thought, are those Molex pins or copies? I've had problems with copy pins deforming in the past.


----------



## OffTheChart

k so me + camera = fail

how can tell if copy pins?

nah the wire + insulation is 2mm

it is now difficult to say I will try and use other pins, because I have mixed my MDPC with ones bought from MODDIY???

these are also the ones with the long wings (if that even helps at all)


----------



## Big Elf

The pins will have different markings on them although they are hard to read (with my dodgy eyesight I can't see them). I can tell you that the modDIY pins I tried some time ago were rubbish but they didn't have the long wings.

Have you ever been able to successfully crimp pins with the tool. The test crimps that were supplied with the tool should indicate it was tested and produces perfect crimps.

I'm really surprised with that wire diameter. I use 2.3mm and yours looks thicker than that, must be my dodgy eyes.


----------



## WiSK

Set it looser, and I really suggest undoing the dies and aligning them like in the thread. Make sure the dies are flush when closed.


----------



## OffTheChart

yeah I think I will give the die moving a try

just did 2 test crimps by just moving the pins and it did seem to make a difference

I always put the pin in the crimper with the wings 'resting' against the one side of the die

when I now moved the wings to the open (the outside) side of the crimper, it did improve, but is it really supposed to 'squash' that part? (the part where the exposed wire gets crimper)

it makes that part of the pin look so 'weak'

think this weekend I have a task ahead of me, to just fiddle around

@Elf I never really paid so much attention to the crimps... only recently when I actually had to start doing it for someone else and I got a pair of cables that was done by someone else


----------



## WiSK

The wire strands are supposed to be airtight inside the compressed wings. It shouldn't be weak, in fact stronger than before.


----------



## Blaise170

Do you all know where to buy patterned paracord? Looking for it so that I can sleeve my Ducky Shine cable and possibly my PSU down the road. And does anyone have a suggestion for a heat gun? As cheap as possible is fine as long as it doesn't blow up on me.


----------



## OffTheChart

so, reading the datasheet on the Molex official crimper...

the dimensions of the crimping is actually correct...

cool, so the "squashing" is sorted. now I will just see if tuning the dies a bit will eliminate that protruding bit.

my CONDUCTOR CRIMP is just a bit short of 1mm in height and my INSULATION CRIMP is about right at the 2.3-2.5mm

guess I was just getting a bit paranoid with it looking a bit weak.

but, for now and future, thanks WiSK and Big Elf for the help.

what I asked was probably mentioned a few times either in here, or somewhere else.

@Blaise170 as in my case, I just browse Ebay usually because I have to import all my stuff.

unfortunately not every big computer modding place sells every flavour that one would want, so it comes down to ordering from multiple places most of the time, which I then try and go with place that has the biggest choice I am after at one stage.


----------



## Blaise170

Ah yeah. I actually figured out search terms to use to find it without finding all those paracord bracelets. Using "coreless paracord" brings up exactly what I was looking for. Think I may have found a heat gun too, a cheap Wagner off Amazon with 4.5 star average reviews.


----------



## iBored

Hi guys, anyone tried using these?
Lutro0 Double Wire Clamp

I'm at my 4th attempt at doing split cables but...


----------



## Blaise170

Personally I'd use actual wire terminals. I would rather use a splice where I know it's going to work and not fall apart.


----------



## OffTheChart

yeah also been doing a splice here and there and still not got a solid method with constant results

but then I do them low/high enough to keep them out of sight and I don't have to work too much on getting it too nice

I still get my bumps, but I think it is because I am using a lighter atm

have been doing the glue method though so basically just my shrink that needs work

think I also need to make the splice way smaller for less exposed area


----------



## tinus93

The splice only needs to be about 5mm to fit the wire in and have it neatly soldered. 7mm if you want it to be a bit easier. Sleeve needs to be just slightly heated so it doesn't curl back and form a huge bump. Superglue is your best friend and use it to secure it over the splice itself aswell. Youi don't want any bare wire to show inbetween the splice at all. After this heat it up a bit with a lighter and smooth it out with your hands. Cut heatshrink up to size so it covers 5mm on both ends. Patience is key! Learn from your mistakes and only take perfection as the best options. Somewhere after trial and error you will get something like this:


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> sorry, these aren't the best pics:
> 
> 
> 
> do they look alright?
> 
> any1 with an MDPC crimper, on which 'setting' is your retention? if that even matters.
> 
> currently mine is on the 2nd circle from the - side
> 
> @gdubc just sent an email to that one, thanks... holding thumbs


I had the same problem when I first purchased the crimper from Lutro0. The problem was solved by turning the pin 180°


----------



## OffTheChart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> I had the same problem when I first purchased the crimper from Lutro0. The problem was solved by turning the pin 180°


no way that would work, unless I am missing something


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> no way that would work, unless I am missing something


Why wouldn't it work? If you are putting the pin in the wrong orientation then the wings are going to get squashed way too much. The crimper is designed for the pin to go in only one way. Watch Lutro0's video on how to crimp and notice the orientation that he puts the pin into the crimper.


----------



## OffTheChart

hehe, that is how I am doing it









turning the pin 180deg (wings from one side to opposite), it wouldn't have worked at all

flipping the pin 180deg (wings from one side of crimper to other side), it would also have not worked at all

as Lutro0 says, there is basically just one way they could be, in order to have worked

but nonetheless, all info/help is here for future so thanks


----------



## OffTheChart

is this a new modified version of the FEMALE FAN pins??? :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Molex-Fan-Female-Terminal-50-pcs-/271217153077?pt=Computer_Case_Mods_Stickers_Decals&hash=item3f25cd5435

and is this one correct: (am I missing something I should notice, in terms of the pin itself)

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0008500105_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml

and out of the above link, for housing:

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0009930300_CRIMP_HOUSINGS.xml

this one looked the closest


----------



## WiSK

I'm not familiar with those ones from Axon in your first link.

Your second link is the correct shape, but they too large. I believe it's type KK254 that you want.

Housing: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0050291558_CRIMP_HOUSINGS.xml
Pins: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0008500114_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml


----------



## ozzy1925

I want to sleeve my ax 1500i but the original cables look very hard to sleeve for me and i am thinking of buying sleeved kits from corsair and want to heatshrinkless sleeve them with mdpc sleeving.Do you think is it easier to work?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> I want to sleeve my ax 1500i but the original cables look very hard to sleeve for me and i am thinking of buying sleeved kits from corsair and want to heatshrinkless sleeve them with mdpc sleeving.Do you think is it easier to work?


It seems a very roundabout way to avoid the double wires.

For the same price as the kits from corsair, you can buy crimper, pins and wire to make your own. Then you will also have the crimper still for your next PSU.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It seems a very roundabout way to avoid the double wires.
> 
> For the same price as the kits from corsair, you can buy crimper, pins and wire to make your own. Then you will also have the crimper still for your next PSU.


sorry,as i understand are you saying trying to re-sleeve corsair kit is harder than the original psu cable sleeving?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> sorry,as i understand are you saying trying to re-sleeve corsair kit is harder than the original psu cable sleeving?


No, I am saying it costs more to buy corsair kit.

You only want the kit for the simplified wires, right?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> No, I am saying it costs more to buy corsair kit.
> 
> You only want the kit for the simplified wires, right?


yes do you think will it simplfy?
and 1 more reason i want to keep the stock cables because when i want to sell psu, people here wants the psu with stock cables.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> yes do you think will it simplfy?
> and 1 more reason i want to keep the stock cables because when i want to sell psu, people here wants the psu with stock cables.


Yes, buying the corsair kit will simplify the cabling.

But you will then remove the sleeving from the kit and just use bare wires? For similar price you can buy a crimper and make your own wires.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Yes, buying the corsair kit will simplify the cabling.
> 
> But you will then remove the sleeving from the kit and just use bare wires? For similar price you can buy a crimper and make your own wires.


yes i will remove the sleeving and use bare wires because i never done sleeving and i dont know if making my own cables is noob friendly or not.Can you help me with choosing and couldnt find a diagram for my psu


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> yes i will remove the sleeving and use bare wires because i never done sleeving and i dont know if making my own cables is noob friendly or not.Can you help me with choosing and couldnt find a diagram for my psu


Pinout for AX1500i should be the same as the AX1200i http://www.overclock.net/t/1420796/repository-of-power-supply-pin-outs

As to whether it's noob friendly. Cutting a piece of wire and crimping it is easy. It gives you plenty of control about exactly how you want your wires.

More difficult is to be comfortable with making the right connections. That's why the repository exists, so we can share pinouts and help others when they are sleeving.


----------



## Krulani

I'd like to post my 2nd sleeving job, and first paracord project. Hope you like it


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krulani*
> 
> I'd like to post my 2nd sleeving job, and first paracord project. Hope you like it


I do like it, I like it a lot.


----------



## Blaise170

Hmmm, apparently these butt connector terminals I bought aren't heatshrinkable. Just caught one on fire trying to shrink it.


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Hmmm, apparently these butt connector terminals I bought aren't heatshrinkable. Just caught one on fire trying to shrink it.


How on earth would a metal terminal catch on fire?


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> How on earth would a metal terminal catch on fire?


The rubber, not the metal.


----------



## Friction

Oh those things! Why on earth are you using them? Try using a heat gun or a hair dryer to shrink the heatshrink instead of a lighter.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> Oh those things! Why on earth are you using them? Try using a heat gun or a hair dryer to shrink the heatshrink instead of a lighter.


These are just generics that I bought at Lowe's. I have actual heatshrink/waterproof terminals coming in the mail soon. I was going to get a heat gun, but it's another cost that I'd rather avoid if possible so I'm just using a lighter for heatshrink.


----------



## WolfFangs1381

@Blaise170: I recommend using a butane torch instead of a lighter. It won't leave a soot residue like a lighter will. I had a Mac Tools butane torch that came with my wire crimped set. That thing was great for doing heatsink and was much easier to grab instead of the heatgun. I need to find out if my father ran down a Mac Tools truck to have it repaired or replaced. I can't locate it here at home or in the garage. You can get a cheap one at Wal-Mart for $8. I plan to work on my build this weekend. Need to get her running.









Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## Blaise170

Yeah I saw a butane torch at Autozone for like $10 when I was looking for terminals. Don't know where to get the actual butane though.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Yeah I saw a butane torch at Autozone for like $10 when I was looking for terminals. Don't know where to get the actual butane though.


Home Depot or Lowes.


----------



## azrjml

This is my first gaming rig and I've decided to sleeve almost all of my cable. Today I bought some paracord and done with the 24 pin







The end result and this is my first time sleeving. I'm doing the paracord heat-shrinkless. However, there are some pin that have to wire attach to and i've decided to use heat shrink only for the ones with double cable.


sorry for the low quality photo as it was taken using a phone


----------



## dispositional

Here is mine. Took me about 20 hours to sleeve all the cables I have sleeved so far.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

I've always liked how sleeved cables looked, so I decided to try my own. In the future I want to try to sleeve the whole power supply, but for know I'll stick with extensions. For my first time, I'm really happy with the result.


----------



## Fieel

chillin' n' sleevin' a little led


----------



## Lutro0

Hey everyone, if you had asked any questions in pm I will get to them asap. If you have new ones please pm me as I have limited time right now but I will try to get to them.

If you have order issues please pm me as well.

I am glad to see all of you again!


----------



## GaMbi2004

So.. Im about to get back on the modding wagon.. this time to get some sleeving done
Lots of awesome guides in here! thanks a lot you guys







Im sure it will serve me well in my quest for a perfect sleeve job.
I will be going for HS-less and only sleeving the visible cables: ATX 24, Mobo 4+4, GPU 8 + 6, SATA, USB and front panel wires.


Here is my list so fare.. the kit includes 30 meters of black, the "color-x" (dark red) and "shade 19" (dark gray) is 10 meters each, and I was thinking a about making this pattern.


This is the machine that im gonna sleeve.

What do you guys think? enough sleeve for the job? any suggestions on patterns?


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> So.. Im about to get back on the modding wagon.. this time to get some sleeving done
> Lots of awesome guides in here! thanks a lot you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im sure it will serve me well in my quest for a perfect sleeve job.
> I will be going for HS-less and only sleeving the visible cables: ATX 24, Mobo 4+4, GPU 8 + 6, SATA, USB and front panel wires.
> 
> 
> Here is my list so fare.. the kit includes 30 meters of black, the "color-x" (dark red) and "shade 19" (dark gray) is 10 meters each, and I was thinking a about making this pattern.
> 
> 
> This is the machine that im gonna sleeve.
> 
> What do you guys think? enough sleeve for the job? any suggestions on patterns?


Usually for a full PSU sleeve you need about 100m.


----------



## morencyam

Personally, I would look at Lutro0 Customs for your sleeving needs. Its a little cheaper, especially in the shipping aspect, and you are also supporting an OCN local. to calculate how much you need, just measure the length of each cable, then multiply it by the number of wires. So for the 24-pin, if it's 2 feet long, times 24 wires, so you would need 48 feet just for the 24-pin cable


----------



## GaMbi2004

I thought MDPC was on OCN as well? also he is located in the neighboring country, so taxes are already payed and fairly cheep / fast shipping
But yea, Lutro0 Customs was my 2nd choice.. will look into it and see if it is gonna be cheaper.

Thx for the hints for the lengths.. 100 meters seams a bit much for what I am gonna do though


----------



## morencyam

oh, didn't realize you were in Denmark. Shipping would be more from Lutro0 then. MDPC might be on OCN, but he isn't a regular poster like Lutro0


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> I thought MDPC was on OCN as well? also he is located in the neighboring country, so taxes are already payed and fairly cheep / fast shipping
> But yea, Lutro0 Customs was my 2nd choice.. will look into it and see if it is gonna be cheaper.
> 
> Thx for the hints for the lengths.. 100 meters seams a bit much for what I am gonna do though


you might look at E22 then, he is the UK retailer of Lutro0's sleeving so shipping might be a little less to Denmark than all the way from the US


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> So.. Im about to get back on the modding wagon.. this time to get some sleeving done
> Lots of awesome guides in here! thanks a lot you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im sure it will serve me well in my quest for a perfect sleeve job.
> I will be going for HS-less and only sleeving the visible cables: ATX 24, Mobo 4+4, GPU 8 + 6, SATA, USB and front panel wires.
> 
> 
> Here is my list so fare.. the kit includes 30 meters of black, the "color-x" (dark red) and "shade 19" (dark gray) is 10 meters each, and I was thinking a about making this pattern.
> 
> 
> This is the machine that im gonna sleeve.
> 
> What do you guys think? enough sleeve for the job? any suggestions on patterns?


Good choice on the colours. Colour X is easily the best shade of red around.

I'd guess you would need about 40m to do your system. Assuming standard 18" cables.

I wouldn't buy the sleeve kit though. It comes w/ a bunch of larger sleeving that you wouldn't use.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Good choice on the colours. Colour X is easily the best shade of red around.
> 
> I'd guess you would need about 40m to do your system. Assuming standard 18" cables.
> 
> I wouldn't buy the sleeve kit though. It comes w/ a bunch of larger sleeving that you wouldn't use.


Cheers







Just the info I needed.
I will skip the kit and just buy black sleeve and heat shrink separately and see if gets cheaper.. maybe get some colour X for sata instead of the black ones that comes in the kit.


----------



## sueke

I can't stop to upgrade my gaming computer, because i like many ideas that i saw in this forum, so, i'm far from finish it.

I wanna to install vga's backplates, what's better? Original evga backplate or make one myself? Is it hard to do it?

thank's

System spec's:
I5 3570K 4.3Ghz + Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo + Ceramiqué 2
Asrock Z77 Extreme 4
8GB DDR3 Corsair Dominator 1866Mhz
EVGA GTX 760 ACX + SLI
SSD Corsair Force GT 60GB
HDD Seagate 500GB
PSU Corsair VX450W Modded and paracord sleeved
Commander MS-I
One 140mm case fan
Four 120mm case fan
Win 8.1 Pro 64bits

Before



After



Current










Before



After



Current


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sueke*
> 
> I can't stop to upgrade my gaming computer, because i like many ideas that i saw in this forum, so, i'm far from finish it.
> 
> I wanna to install vga's backplates, what's better? Original evga backplate or make one myself? Is it hard to do it?
> 
> thank's
> 
> System spec's:
> I5 3570K 4.3Ghz + Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo + Ceramiqué 2
> Asrock Z77 Extreme 4
> 8GB DDR3 Corsair Dominator 1866Mhz
> EVGA GTX 760 ACX + SLI
> SSD Corsair Force GT 60GB
> HDD Seagate 500GB
> PSU Corsair VX450W Modded and paracord sleeved
> Commander MS-I
> One 140mm case fan
> Four 120mm case fan
> Win 8.1 Pro 64bits
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> Current
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> Current


Nice and uniq pattern







I have my sleeves coming in the mail in a few days ^^ cant wait!

As for backplates:
The "original" EVGA backplate offers structure support (anti warping) and in some cases, a small amount of cooling (unless you have VRMs on the backside.. then it offers a fair amount of cooling)

Dont know if you noticed the pictures I posted about 10 posts back.. that is a DIY backplate.. took me less than an hour and cost me 1 dollar~
It offers no structural support, and no cooling what so ever (hell, it might even make some components a degree or two, hotter..)
It is basically a thin piece of plastic sheet from an old cabinet I had lying around, wrapped in 1 dollar self adhesive printable vinyl label.
Held in place by 3 small pieces of Velcro (fancy me. double sided tape works just as well)

I have a more in depth guide / description + many more pictures in my build log.. feel free to stop by! and dont forget to comment!


----------



## sueke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Nice and uniq pattern
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have my sleeves coming in the mail in a few days ^^ cant wait!
> 
> As for backplates:
> The "original" EVGA backplate offers structure support (anti warping) and in some cases, a small amount of cooling (unless you have VRMs on the backside.. then it offers a fair amount of cooling)
> 
> Dont know if you noticed the pictures I posted about 10 posts back.. that is a DIY backplate.. took me less than an hour and cost me 1 dollar~
> It offers no structural support, and no cooling what so ever (hell, it might even make some components a degree or two, hotter..)
> It is basically a thin piece of plastic sheet from an old cabinet I had lying around, wrapped in 1 dollar self adhesive printable vinyl label.
> Held in place by 3 small pieces of Velcro (fancy me. double sided tape works just as well)
> 
> I have a more in depth guide / description + many more pictures in my build log.. feel free to stop by! and dont forget to comment!


I saw your job, it's a great idea, i'll try do something like that. thank's for sharing


----------



## Auli

A question for you guys!

How much smaller do u make the cables on the 2nd tier?

I was thinking 30cm on the upper and 28cm on the lower?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Auli*
> 
> A question for you guys!
> 
> How much smaller do u make the cables on the 2nd tier?
> 
> I was thinking 30cm on the upper and 28cm on the lower?


I do 6.4mm shorter per 90 degrees.
Big Elf suggests double this.
I tend to do small cases, he does atx cases.
YMMV


----------



## Himo5

Run a couple of lengths of sleeve through the path, holding them together with masking tape, then tape where each of them reaches the end of the path.


----------



## morencyam

Hey guys, quick question. I asked this over in the pinout thread as well, but it seems to be more active here, so I'll ask here too.
I am getting ready to make a 1:1 adapter and custom extensions for my AX850 so I need to buy a bunch of connectors and pins. I have found everything I need at FCPU, but I have one question before I place the order. I noticed FCPU has gold plated and non-gold plated pins. I need a total of about 200 combined male and female pins. The gold plated are $0.99 per set of 4 and the non gold plated are $0.30 per set of 4. I know that doesn't seem like much of a difference, but it adds up to a difference of $35 between the two. I know gold plated is more resistant to corrosion and has better conductivity, but how necessary is gold plated vs non-plated

TL;DR Making custom cables. Buying about 200 pins. Do I spend about triple the money for gold plated, or is non-gold plated okay to use.
Links for reference.
Gold Plated
Non-Gold Plated


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question. I asked this over in the pinout thread as well, but it seems to be more active here, so I'll ask here too.
> I am getting ready to make a 1:1 adapter and custom extensions for my AX850 so I need to buy a bunch of connectors and pins. I have found everything I need at FCPU, but I have one question before I place the order. I noticed FCPU has gold plated and non-gold plated pins. I need a total of about 200 combined male and female pins. The gold plated are $0.99 per set of 4 and the non gold plated are $0.30 per set of 4. I know that doesn't seem like much of a difference, but it adds up to a difference of $35 between the two. I know gold plated is more resistant to corrosion and has better conductivity, but how necessary is gold plated vs non-plated
> 
> TL;DR Making custom cables. Buying about 200 pins. Do I spend about triple the money for gold plated, or is non-gold plated okay to use.
> Links for reference.
> Gold Plated
> Non-Gold Plated


There is little difference between the terminals, I would save your money and get the cheaper ones. However make sure that the terminals are the ones with the longer wings On the back end of the terminals) as they crimp allot better.

I believe the ones you linked are the shorter winged terminals.


----------



## morencyam

Thanks Lutro0. Would these work better?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Thanks Lutro0. Would these work better?


Yup, frozen lists them as dual pins but they are the regular molex style pins and are the same ones we sell and recommend.

And not a problem I am glad I could help.


----------



## morencyam

Perfect. Thanks again. I was going to order everything from your shop, but you seem to be out of everything I need. I think the pins were really the only thing in stock I needed.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Perfect. Thanks again. I was going to order everything from your shop, but you seem to be out of everything I need. I think the pins were really the only thing in stock I needed.


We are not out, but the shop is closed down while we relocate the shop which is part of the family issues I am going through.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> We are not out, but the shop is closed down while we relocate the shop which is part of the family issues I am going through.


Good to hear the shop shut down is just temporary. I hope your family issues all get worked out


----------



## GaMbi2004

So fare so good!
Splicing of double wires, planing and starting on ATX yesterday, rest of ATX and PCIe's today..
Hoping to get EPS/CPU 8 pin, SATA's, fans and others done tomorrow


----------



## morencyam

I got parts in today to make my 24-pin cable extension and shorten the GPU and EPS cables. I started crimping the pins for the extension and the wings that crimp onto the insulation kept breaking off. But it wasn't every time. Only about a quarter of them were breaking, and it was only one of the wings, not both. The wings that crimp on the wire crimped perfect every time. I'm thinking it's because they are the version with the longer wings advertised for dual wires? Had anyone else had this problem?
These are the pins I'm using
And this is the crimper


----------



## failwheeldrive

Hey guys, I just started a custom cable job for a friend's build, but I don't have enough 16awg wire to do all the cables. Does anyone have a suggestion for a retailer that sells 16awg wire with a similar outer diameter to Lutro's standard 16awg wire? I believe Lutro's 16awg is around 2.3mm thick. It needs to be close match, since I'm currently using Lutro's wire.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I got parts in today to make my 24-pin cable extension and shorten the GPU and EPS cables. I started crimping the pins for the extension and the wings that crimp onto the insulation kept breaking off. But it wasn't every time. Only about a quarter of them were breaking, and it was only one of the wings, not both. The wings that crimp on the wire crimped perfect every time. I'm thinking it's because they are the version with the longer wings advertised for dual wires? Had anyone else had this problem?
> These are the pins I'm using
> And this is the crimper


There's a good explanation in the FAQ about crimpers and pins, read the section named Which Crimpers & Pins Do I Buy?


----------



## provost

Quote:


> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So.. Im about to get back on the modding wagon.. this time to get some sleeving done
> Lots of awesome guides in here! thanks a lot you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im sure it will serve me well in my quest for a perfect sleeve job.
> I will be going for HS-less and only sleeving the visible cables: ATX 24, Mobo 4+4, GPU 8 + 6, SATA, USB and front panel wires.
> 
> 
> Here is my list so fare.. the kit includes 30 meters of black, the "color-x" (dark red) and "shade 19" (dark gray) is 10 meters each, and I was thinking a about making this pattern.
> 
> 
> This is the machine that im gonna sleeve.
> 
> What do you guys think? enough sleeve for the job? any suggestions on patterns?


When did you try to order this from mdpc? I tried their site yesterday to pick up some sleeving for my other build as I decided to go with a different color scheme for the sleeving than what I had initially ordered a while back, but I saw this on their website:
http://en.mdpc-x.com
Quote:


> "Dear Friends of Nils & Mona (and MDPC of course)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since almost 7 years, we had not one single day off, no holiday, no weekend - we were purely dedicated to you! Because we are moving our production at the moment, it is time to give ourselves a break. Once we have the new facility running and are fully relaxed again, we will be back. It will likely take a couple of months, but then we will be able to continue for many years to come. Do not feel sorry for me and Mona, but instead be happy that we give ourselves this break - which will enable us to continue for a longer time than originally planned. Take care of yourselves and enjoy life as much as you can while we do so too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nils & Mona".












does anyone know how long they have been gone, ie, when did the "couple of months" break start? I hadn't visited their site in a while, so not sure when this notice went up. I already have plenty of mdpc red and black (red and black is what I decided to change out), but I am looking for mdpc titanium grey and aquamarine blue sleeving along with the shrink. Not sure where else to get mdpc?









Is there anything else comparable (in titanium grey and aquamarine blue colors) which could go with mdpc's white sleeving (that I already have) in a tri color scheme without looking odd?


----------



## GaMbi2004

Sadly it is no more than 3-4 days ago they started the break.. I guess I was one of the last ones to got a package from them.

Also, Lutro0 is down due to personal issues.. so the two good sleeving options are both down at the moment :S


----------



## failwheeldrive

So lucky I ordered a dumping pack right before they closed.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

For Teleios sleeving cant you just order from e22 & FrozenCPU? thought they stocked Lutro0 stuff









It is much more expensive than Lutro0s shop tho lol


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> For Teleios sleeving cant you just order from e22 & FrozenCPU? thought they stocked Lutro0 stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is much more expensive than Lutro0s shop tho lol


I've noticed a lot of the Lutro0 product at FCPU are being shown as out of stock at the moment as well


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I've noticed a lot of the Lutro0 product at FCPU are being shown as out of stock at the moment as well


Yeah I noticed that to when I looked everyone must be buying up lol, they also dont seem to have 4mm black


----------



## provost

How does telios compare to mdpc in everyone's sleeving experience ? ( sorry, haven't been keeping up with this thread, if this has already been answered)
I only saw few colors on fcpu (no aquamarine blue?). They do have grey, but not sure if it's similar to mdpc titanium grey?
So, I am guessing telios 4mm is the way to go (if it is comparable to mdpc)?


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *provost*
> 
> How does telios compare to mdpc in everyone's sleeving experience ? ( sorry, haven't been keeping up with this thread, if this has already been answered)
> I only saw few colors on fcpu (no aquamarine blue?). They do have grey, but not sure if it's similar to mdpc titanium grey?
> So, I am guessing telios 4mm is the way to go (if it is comparable to mdpc)?


It's a denser/smaller weave than MDPC. Gives slightly better coverage, mainly when using lighter colored wire than the sleeving. From an aesthetic point it's all personal preference... I prefer MDPC because I like that the weave is more pronounced.

They have a dark gray and light blue that are pretty close to MDPC's versions. I imagine they'd suite your build well. If you decide to try out LC, be sure to make sure they're no longer having shipping issues. The last few months have been horrible for LC, with tons of customers (myself included) experiencing huge shipping delays and a lack of communication from LC. Hopefully once their site is back online they'll be caught up with orders and the service will be better. Given the choice though, I'll go with MDPC any day for the sole reason they've never had customer service issues like that.


----------



## Lutro0

The LC shop is down for the moment while we restructure and move the shop. This will enable us to get orders out correctly and in a fast manner. We have lots of great things to come for the future.

It also seems MDPC is down for a few months as well.

We will be getting a ton of product over to Frozen CPU so that in the mean time you guys can have access to sleeving goods and we will let everyone know when we will be fully up.


----------



## morencyam

You're moving to Cincinnati, right?









I can start next week


----------



## GaMbi2004

Got my sowing on today










ATX, PCIe's and EPS/CPU is all sleeved and stitched.. hopefully I will have the time tomorrow to do the rest and put it all back in the case.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> You're moving to Cincinnati, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can start next week


I am not fully sure where we will end up but it is looking like it will be a place that does start with a "C" lol


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I am not fully sure where we will end up but it is looking like it will be a place that does start with a "C" lol


Perhaps Louisville, KY? That's close enough to Cinci.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Perhaps Louisville, KY? That's close enough to Cinci.


Well sadly it wont be in that area, however I can say we have a ton of exciting new products and ideas that the wait will be worth it. Thanks for your patience.


----------



## morencyam




----------



## morencyam

My first attempt at heatshrinkless sleeving


----------



## Juthos




----------



## GaMbi2004

@morencyam Looks good







Nice stitching! too bad about the 2nd from the left..









@Juthos WOW! that technique looks fairly complex! did you melt the sleeve to the wire first? then crimp down? or just held it in place?

Crimp tool two stage? or both the wire and insulation crimped at the same time?
Looks really professional and will probably hold better than the normal HSless method..


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> @morencyam Looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice stitching! too bad about the 2nd from the left..


Thanks GaMbi. I didn't notice it until I inserted the wire. But, the way that the motherboard will be oriented, you won't see it, so I'm not too concerned about it.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Aah







no problem then..
Did your ATX use all 24 pins? mine only uses 23 :/ luckily, the missing wire is on the backside, so no one will notice that either ^^

What stitch method did you use? looks different than the one I used.


----------



## morencyam

No, it only use 23, but I added a wire in the pin 20 slot to make stitching easier

I used THIS method. So much easier than the FrankNStein method. Takes me about 5-10 minutes per stitch for the 24-pin. In his video is uses real thick thread. I used regular sewing thread doubled over for added strength.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Funny.. I used the same method and also double thread for strength.. you must have tightened more than me, or more slag on the first loop around the wires..
Sadly, one of my latches end tie broke







so have to re do it INSIDE my case.. or maybe I end up disconnecting it all again..

I hope I will be all done later today so I can share some final pictures


----------



## morencyam

I think I made a few small changes to his method that work better for me. It's a solid method though.

With my fat sausage fingers, there is no way I could do it inside the case lol


----------



## OffTheChart

morencyam made an extension, so you can add the extra wire as most pre-made extensions include this

definitely helps on the stitching for that 1 wire part


----------



## morencyam

Very much so. I originally had the stock 24-pin cable stitched and it was a pain when I got to pin 20 since it was missing. Kept causing a bulge on the top side and didn't like how it looked. So, as you said, I am making a short adapter off the PSU since my AX850 uses a 10-pin and 18-pin on the PSU side. So pin 20 is still unused on the adpater, but included as a dumby place holder on the extension


----------



## GaMbi2004

Hmm.. I must have been lucky there then.. AX760, and the missing 20 pin didnt course any bulging or other problems.. again, maybe I didnt tighten quite as much..
I was thinking of placing a dummy wire aswell, but after doing my first latch, and it looked good, I decided to just leave it alone..

Extension must have been fare easier in other ways as well.. double wires from the 18+10 pin to the ATX.. Had to cut the test wire in the pair and solder it on further down the main line..
Also, the wires are not 1->1 2->2 ... 24->24.. obviously since the PSU side has 27 pins (well 28.. but 27 used).

But all in all, I feel it went well









First time sleever, with latching and heatshrinkless and no extensions.. only way this could have been harder would be if the PSU wasnt fully modular









Dont remember if I already posted thise pictures here, so gonna give it a spoiler


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Also latched the 6+2 and 6pin together in one line (all 14 wires), will post those pictures later when Im done


----------



## morencyam

I started splicing and soldering the stock double wires as well, but decided to make the adapter after seeing someone else make one in the Pinout Repository Thread. I think yours turned out really well considering it was your first time.

I will be stitching the GPU cables together as well, but my =2's aren't used since I'm still using my GTX470's, which only use the two 6-pin connectors


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> @Juthos WOW! that technique looks fairly complex! did you melt the sleeve to the wire first? then crimp down? or just held it in place?
> 
> Crimp tool two stage? or both the wire and insulation crimped at the same time?
> Looks really professional and will probably hold better than the normal HSless method..


The boring part is to put the sleeve on the cable before crimping, the sleeve is 1/16 and it's pretty tight. Once i find the correct lenght of the sleeve , i bend the arms of the connector with a normal pliers to keep the connector in the right position and then i crimp.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> The boring part is to put the sleeve on the cable before crimping, the sleeve is 1/16 and it's pretty tight. Once i find the correct lenght of the sleeve , i bend the arms of the connector with a normal pliers to keep the connector in the right position and then i crimp.


Cool.. thx for info









IM DONE!!








Still need to straighten a few of the wires.. but it starts looking fairly good ^^



My build log will have a lot more pictures and descriptions in an hour or so if it should be in anyones interest


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> The boring part is to put the sleeve on the cable before crimping, the sleeve is 1/16 and it's pretty tight. Once i find the correct lenght of the sleeve , i bend the arms of the connector with a normal pliers to keep the connector in the right position and then i crimp.


I've always liked when people did that method but like you said it needs to be said that it only works with sleeve that is smaller in diameter - bitfenix does the same method on their extensions but the only downfall of the method is that the orignal molex terminals were not meant to handle all of that stress.

The wing portion of the terminal is called the stress relief, its there to provide a relief to the movement of the cable and to keep the cable crimp strong - but when you max it out like that it no longer acts very well as the stress relief so be careful when forming them and playing around to get them the right way because we all know what happens with metal when you twist it a bunch.


----------



## Fritzlimo

Hey guys!
I'll be starting my first sleeving proect soon, but I really don't know how to handle this cable. As you can see my GPU needs two 6pin an one 2 pin connector to work. Is it possible to sleeve this without making it look messy? Otherwise I would try to remove one 6pin connector on the first cable and the 6pin and 2pin on the other cable as I have two of them . Would that work?


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fritzlimo*
> 
> Hey guys!
> I'll be starting my first sleeving proect soon, but I really don't know how to handle this cable. As you can see my GPU needs two 6pin an one 2 pin connector to work. Is it possible to sleeve this without making it look messy? Otherwise I would try to remove one 6pin connector on the first cable and the 6pin and 2pin on the other cable as I have two of them . Would that work?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


^
I did exactly this







Works perfectly fine.
I had to open the pin that holds 2 wires, cut the link wire and remove as much material as possible to make it fit in the connector with MDPC sleeve and 18AWG wires.


----------



## Fritzlimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> ^
> I did exactly this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Works perfectly fine.
> I had to open the pin that holds 2 wires, cut the link wire and remove as much material as possible to make it fit in the connector with MDPC sleeve and 18AWG wires.


Thanks! I will show you some images soon:thumb:


----------



## morencyam

You could also cut the 6 pin off and splice it into the 6+2 closer to the PSU


----------



## Fritzlimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> You could also cut the 6 pin off and splice it into the 6+2 closer to the PSU


Like in Lutro0's Double Wire Guide? That would probably turn out nice.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fritzlimo*
> 
> Like in Lutro0's Double Wire Guide? That would probably turn out nice.


Exactly. Essentially, the daisy chain wiring like that is double writing, just done a little differently


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fritzlimo*
> 
> Like in Lutro0's Double Wire Guide? That would probably turn out nice.


Yes..
I cut off the 6pin from the 8pin (since I had two of those cables)
If the 6pin wires are long enough to be soldered on further down the line and still be hidden, that would do the job as well









BUT, if you have a power hungry GPU and your PSU is on multi rails, one cable splitting into two, may not supply enough power.. It might need a cable from one rail to the 8pin and a cable from another rail to the 6pin.. this is rarely the case, and since your cables comes with this link (8 and 6 on same cable / same rail) Im guessing your PSU is more than capable of handling both 8 and 6 on same cable / rail.

I choose to use two cables, with the links cut, rather than soldering the links on further down due to the extra time needed to splice / solder and the 3 wire joint hiding etc..
Seamed easier to me to just do two separate cables, and at the same time, have the GPU power divided onto two PSU outputs rather than one. (or though my PSU is mono rail, and therefore should not matter)

All in all.. both solutions should work fine for you.
What PSU and GPU are you using?


----------



## Fritzlimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Yes..
> I cut off the 6pin from the 8pin (since I had two of those cables)
> If the 6pin wires are long enough to be soldered on further down the line and still be hidden, that would do the job as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT, if you have a power hungry GPU and your PSU is on multi rails, one cable splitting into two, may not supply enough power.. It might need a cable from one rail to the 8pin and a cable from another rail to the 6pin.. this is rarely the case, and since your cables comes with this link (8 and 6 on same cable / same rail) Im guessing your PSU is more than capable of handling both 8 and 6 on same cable / rail.
> 
> I choose to use two cables, with the links cut, rather than soldering the links on further down due to the extra time needed to splice / solder and the 3 wire joint hiding etc..
> Seamed easier to me to just do two separate cables, and at the same time, have the GPU power divided onto two PSU outputs rather than one. (or though my PSU is mono rail, and therefore should not matter)
> 
> All in all.. both solutions should work fine for you.
> What PSU and GPU are you using?


I'm using a semi-modular 630 watt be quiet! and a MSI gtx 760 which uses a good amount of power I think. I will go for the soldering the 6pin further down the line method as I don't want to have two cables going to my GPU. I hope my package with sleeves, heatshrink and tools is arriving soon so I can start working


----------



## SDMODNoob

Hey just thought I share a bit on a noob's perspective of sleeving/creating extensions for the first time. Started the learning process early this year and my first attempt of creating extensions was so botched on measuring lengths that I had to set it aside. Had someone try to fix them for me but they were still not good enough. Over this weekend I was finally able to sit down and put some real time into repairing my work. A few things that I found quite helpful in the process:

1) Used a tape measure to get measure lengths, the groove kept the wire in place and I could stretch the wire out and see the lengths right next to it without having to fidget the wire around.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






2) Cutting off one side of the wire to begin measuring lengths again allowed me to trim the extra sleeving and wire to get it as close as possible in lengths to each other and remeasuring after each trim.
3) Go figure the first time through I don't believe I had ever read you had to have the inner rows shorter than the other to get the arc, this time around I took my shortest wires and rounded them to the nearest length which ended up being 3/4 an inch less than my outer wire and my 24-pin was able to naturally arc nicely. I only found this out after reading through other people's build logs. I have combed through the sleeving FAQ, but I do not believe it is mentioned in there.

BEFORE:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










AFTER:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Hopefully this information will help any newcomers to this hobby like myself who are looking to attempt for the first time.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDMODNoob*
> 
> 3) Go figure the first time through I don't believe I had ever read you had to have the inner rows shorter than the other to get the arc, this time around I took my shortest wires and rounded them to the nearest length which ended up being 3/4 an inch less than my outer wire and my 24-pin was able to naturally arc nicely. I only found this out after reading through other people's build logs. I have combed through the sleeving FAQ, but I do not believe it is mentioned in there.


Indeed it's not in the FAQ, maybe also not in any of the video sleeving guides.

It does get mentioned occasionally though. My experience is that since the two rows are 4.2mm apart, then the inner wire should be _minimum_ PI x 4.2 = 13.2mm shorter. That's a little over half an inch, but that's really the minimum, the wires are then tight against each other. So indeed three-quarter inch is a bit more comfortable.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Indeed it's not in the FAQ, maybe also not in any of the video sleeving guides.
> 
> It does get mentioned occasionally though. My experience is that since the two rows are 4.2mm apart, then the inner wire should be _minimum_ PI x 4.2 = 13.2mm shorter. That's a little over half an inch, but that's really the minimum, the wires are then tight against each other. So indeed three-quarter inch is a bit more comfortable.


Good information to know. I found it fairly challenging to get my cables all in uniform to flow nicely throughout the case. Still not 100% happy with behind the motherboard tray. I'd like to find a way to shorten the sata serial cables.


----------



## Ripple

Sorry to post this here but I could not find much info. I am currently sleeving the MB connector and would like to keep the same black/red color scheme from the PSU to the MB. How have others maintained the same scheme? Do they switch colors on a single wire and heatshrink it somewhere in the middle where it can be hidden? I know you can move certain wires around but I would rather not do this. Thanks in advance.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ripple*
> 
> Sorry to post this here but I could not find much info. I am currently sleeving the MB connector and would like to keep the same black/red color scheme from the PSU to the MB. How have others maintained the same scheme? Do they switch colors on a single wire and heatshrink it somewhere in the middle where it can be hidden? I know you can move certain wires around but I would rather not do this. Thanks in advance.


Which PSU do you have? Which case? Do you have space between PSU and MB to hide things?


----------



## Ripple

I am currently sleeving the Cooler Master V1200 and it's going well so far. I have the Bitfenix Shinobi XL with plenty of room to hide everything in the back. I guess I have to decide if I want the inside to look perfect with the MB cables to match or do the best I can to maintain the color scheme and make the rear look acceptable.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ripple*
> 
> I am currently sleeving the Cooler Master V1200 and it's going well so far. I have the Bitfenix Shinobi XL with plenty of room to hide everything in the back. I guess I have to decide if I want the inside to look perfect with the MB cables to match or do the best I can to maintain the color scheme and make the rear look acceptable.


The easiest is to make extensions to keep everything 1-to-1, the harder way is to redo the wires so they criss-cross in the back. Using cable combs you can get the wires to bundle together nicely to make the transition.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

If you haven't voted already I appreciate your support:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1506101/ocn-mod-of-the-month-august-2014-sponsored-class-voting-now-live/100_100#post_22797633


----------



## Devildog83

What are some options for getting custom cables made now since Lutro0 is closed for a bit?


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> What are some options for getting custom cables made now since Lutro0 is closed for a bit?


Ultimatepersonalcomputers.com or modbunker.com or ensourced.com


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> If you haven't voted already I appreciate your support:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1506101/ocn-mod-of-the-month-august-2014-sponsored-class-voting-now-live/100_100#post_22797633


That sir is a thing of beauty i will make sure to check it out. But I have followed yours mods before.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> What are some options for getting custom cables made now since Lutro0 is closed for a bit?


Actually we are up and able to take orders right now per custom cables. Just the sales portion of the shop is down but is in the middle of being listed over at ModBunker.com. However if you have custom sleeving orders we can take care of those. =)

If you are interested in the details for now please check out our facebook page at: https://www.facebook.com/Lutro0Customs


----------



## tinus93

~4 hours and its done. Now to wait for the reels of pins and connectors to come in. Too bad the Chinese have a long weekend and it might take up to Tuesday for them to ship anything.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> That sir is a thing of beauty i will make sure to check it out. But I have followed yours mods before.
> Actually we are up and able to take orders right now per custom cables. Just the sales portion of the shop is down but is in the middle of being listed over at ModBunker.com. However if you have custom sleeving orders we can take care of those. =)
> 
> If you are interested in the details for now please check out our facebook page at: https://www.facebook.com/Lutro0Customs


Thanks !!! We need a set of cables made for a new Caselabs build.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> If you haven't voted already I appreciate your support:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1506101/ocn-mod-of-the-month-august-2014-sponsored-class-voting-now-live/100_100#post_22797633


That is so sweet. Looks like it won !!! Congrats !!!


----------



## Ragsters

Can you guys give me a link to some good wire striipers?


----------



## morencyam

Automatic wire strippers likeKnipex Automatic Strippers are nice and make keeping all the wires the same length easy, but they are a little expensive. I've always used regular Klein Manual Strippers and they work fine. A little more work since you have to make sure you are stripping the same length every time.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can you guys give me a link to some good wire striipers?


http://www.amazon.com/Knipex-1262180-Adjusting-Insulation-Strippers/dp/B003B8WB5U/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1410294141&sr=8-11&keywords=automatic+wire+strippers

This one works great. It's the one Lutro sells in his shop, but it's cheaper on Amazon.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I've always used regular Klein Manual Strippers and they work fine. A little more work since you have to make sure you are stripping the same length every time.


I also use manual wire strippers, or a stanley knife. The trick is to measure and crimp based on the length of the remaining insulation, and ignore the length of the copper wire


----------



## lowfat

I finally upgraded to the Knipex strippers this year. Definitely a nice pair of strippers.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Knipex-1262180-Adjusting-Insulation-Strippers/dp/B003B8WB5U/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1410294141&sr=8-11&keywords=automatic+wire+strippers
> 
> This one works great. It's the one Lutro sells in his shop, but it's cheaper on Amazon.


Hey thanks! This is perfect. The hand ones never turn out well for me.


----------



## qndrm




----------



## tinus93

Great... So I ordered a reel of atx female crimps which came in yesterday. After crimping a few I noticed that after the slightest tug they will fall off







. I tried multiple crimpers including the molex original one but same result every time. Tried 15 awg, 16 awg, 17 awg and 18 awg but same result over and over again. I am now trying to get this solved. I think it has to do with the wing length not gripping fully in the insulation and wire strands. I also got a reel of sata ones aswell which crimp just perfect but sometimes wont aswell, not a 100% success rate. Sigh, now to source a reel with larger wings on them that wont cost $140 per 4000 like the original molex ones.


----------



## lowfat

What exact crimpers were you using?


----------



## tinus93

Molex original one, MDPC crimper, HT225D, a Knipex one made for crimps like the ATX ones, Molex hand crimper, a hardware store generic hand crimper and a Conrad.com non branded one. I'm 99% sure its the terminals themselves instead of the crimpers. The molex original terminals had a 0% failure rate on either of those crimpers.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinus93*
> 
> Great... So I ordered a reel of atx female crimps which came in yesterday. After crimping a few I noticed that after the slightest tug they will fall off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I tried multiple crimpers including the molex original one but same result every time. Tried 15 awg, 16 awg, 17 awg and 18 awg but same result over and over again. I am now trying to get this solved. I think it has to do with the wing length not gripping fully in the insulation and wire strands. I also got a reel of sata ones aswell which crimp just perfect but sometimes wont aswell, not a 100% success rate. Sigh, now to source a reel with larger wings on them that wont cost $140 per 4000 like the original molex ones.


Can you show a photo of your crimp, and link to the wire you bought?


----------



## tinus93

http://www.conrad.nl/nl/liy-schakeldraad-1-x-075-mm-blauw-100-m-conrad-609059.html 0.75mm2
http://www.conrad.nl/nl/liy-schakeldraad-1-x-1-mm-wit-10-m-conrad-548264.html 1mm2
http://www.conrad.nl/nl/liy-schakeldraad-1-x-05-mm-geel-10-m-conrad-605657.html 0.5mm2
http://www.conrad.nl/nl/liy-schakeldraad-1-x-15-mm-violet-25-m-conrad-549530.html 1.5mm2 (I know this is way too large but I had it around so might aswell use it as a test)

Those are the wires I used as a test. All with pvc insulation. Outer diameters were 2.6mm, 2.1mm, 2mm and 1.8mm. As for my crimps below one is done with the MDPC crimper not in the best lighting though. Insulation is stripped of to 4mm exact. This is on 18 AWG wire and the crimper takes 3-4 clicks before the wings expand. Male version though but the wings are just as long as the other pins I have. Imgur album with huge resolution here:


http://imgur.com/wAzZN


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinus93*
> 
> http://www.conrad.nl/nl/liy-schakeldraad-1-x-075-mm-blauw-100-m-conrad-609059.html 0.75mm2
> http://www.conrad.nl/nl/liy-schakeldraad-1-x-1-mm-wit-10-m-conrad-548264.html 1mm2


These first two wires should be perfect. I also use such _schakeldraad_ from Conrad.

From your photos, it looks like you are not fully compressing the crimping tool. The inner wings are what should hold the wire. They must be compressed - air tight - around the wire, but in your pictures there is a big space above. I drew a green line where your wings are now, but they should be pressed hard where I drew red lines.



The outer wings hold the insulation only for stress relief, and are in principle not vital.


----------



## tinus93

Hmm that one was with the MDPC crimper, chances that the crimping die is broken?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinus93*
> 
> Hmm that one was with the MDPC crimper, chances that the crimping die is broken?


It's always possible, but without seeing it hard to guess. It makes nice curves still. I still think, from the pictures, that the crimper is somehow not compressed fully.


----------



## tinus93

I have checked them again. It only happens with the male and female atx pins I have. The molex peripheral male/female and sata power don't have those problems. Those also seem to be made from a thicker material. I got some molex original ones and with the same crimper I don't get this problem at all. Wings on the orignal ones seem stiffer as well. Oh well time to take my losses and just get back to the original ones.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinus93*
> 
> I have checked them again. It only happens with the male and female atx pins I have. The molex peripheral male/female and sata power don't have those problems. Those also seem to be made from a thicker material. I got some molex original ones and with the same crimper I don't get this problem at all. Wings on the orignal ones seem stiffer as well. Oh well time to take my losses and just get back to the original ones.


Loss on a whole reel is severe. Can you explain which brand/type you bought, so others can avoid this problem?


----------



## tinus93

This was a noname brand which made molex copies. I bought them from a friend in hongkong for a total of $35/reel ex shipping, so not too big of a loss but thats still half a roll I could have had in molex pins. If anyone wants some free samples I would like to hear so people have something to compare against.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Ok, I have attempted the highly regarded sleeving procedures. I can not find the time to sleeve a 24 pin setup, and I have a few fairly "less than perfect" wires. How would be the best to get custom cables. Need 6 x 8 pin PCI, 24 pin and 8 pin combo with jumper for second PSU, and spare 8 pin CPU. I definitely need the 24 pin and 8 pin CPU, as they are attached together. I looked at one company, and I don't remember the site, and they had them in stock, but I couldn't get an answer of how to select the color I wanted. It just said, You pick the color, and there was no option.

I am also not looking for extremely fancy. I currently have all of my PCI Cables done in modsright Gun Metal Paracord, and the 24 pin and 8 pin are both stock, lol.

Thanks guys, and I hope to be able to do this myself when I can get an area to complete the task without having to worry about room inspections.


----------



## shakmods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinus93*
> 
> http://www.conrad.nl/nl/liy-schakeldraad-1-x-075-mm-blauw-100-m-conrad-609059.html 0.75mm2
> http://www.conrad.nl/nl/liy-schakeldraad-1-x-1-mm-wit-10-m-conrad-548264.html 1mm2
> http://www.conrad.nl/nl/liy-schakeldraad-1-x-05-mm-geel-10-m-conrad-605657.html 0.5mm2
> http://www.conrad.nl/nl/liy-schakeldraad-1-x-15-mm-violet-25-m-conrad-549530.html 1.5mm2 (I know this is way too large but I had it around so might aswell use it as a test)
> 
> Those are the wires I used as a test. All with pvc insulation. Outer diameters were 2.6mm, 2.1mm, 2mm and 1.8mm. As for my crimps below one is done with the MDPC crimper not in the best lighting though. Insulation is stripped of to 4mm exact. This is on 18 AWG wire and the crimper takes 3-4 clicks before the wings expand. Male version though but the wings are just as long as the other pins I have. Imgur album with huge resolution here:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/wAzZN


tbh it doesnt matter how the crimp looks, as long as its crimped and the wire is not loose you can use it. dont waste money buying expansive tools.


----------



## tinus93

Like I said in the previous posts they just fall off. I checked what Wisk said and the crimps just are not tight enough. Tried with 100 pins now and its the same result over and over again. I'm taking my losses for now.


----------



## ivicanikolic034

i want to sleeve my corsair cs550m... it is semi modular. is there any way of sleeving it without opening? can i sleeve it all the way to psu,then put big heatshrink around it,so it will not show ugly ends that dont go into psu?
and one more question, can i use paracord? i can get it very cheap,around $4 for 100 feet. my parts are in red,black and white color,so i will sleeve in that colors.


----------



## morencyam

In theory yes, you could sleeve right to the PSU housing then put a large piece over it, but I think it would look sloppy. I think a better option would be to just make sleeved extensions for the non-modular cables. Then you can sleeve the modular ones. And Paracord should work fine. You'd want either 550 or 650 paracord


----------



## ivicanikolic034

it is good idea,getting extension cables...







or i can sleeve it just 20cm on the end,where you can see it... what do you think of that?
yes i will get 550 paracord from aliexpress, it has very good reviews


----------



## morencyam

When I sleeved my PSU, I only sleeved the first foot that would be seen coming off the mobo. It worked and looked fine, but I later regretted not sleeving the entire length. But I also had a fully modular PSU. I think it's a decent option.


----------



## ivicanikolic034

i will figure something you,thank you








i can get extension for $4-5... that would be the best,i think...


----------



## Himo5

I think the key question to ask about sleeving non- and semi- modular PSUs is whether or not you are prepared to cut the length and number of cables to suit the requirements of your installation. If you think you are going to reuse - or resell - the PSU at a later date the answer is probably not, in which case your best plan is to use a PSU Cover to seal off the area beside your PSU and do your sleeving outside that. Google 'PSU Cover', switch to [Images] and [Videos] and see what you think.


----------



## Ramzinho

Hello guys. i'm a planning freak.. and now as i've got my w.c setup bought, my Second 290X planned for the end of the year.. what im really missing is sleeving. Which seems kinda scary to me.. but again i think it's gonna be a fun thing to do









I was wondering what are the costs i'm looking at. i know i'll need a huge punch of paracord or nylon + some tools. .. i'd love to keep this to the minimum though. but essential tools are a must.







.. with lutroo and mdpc-x being both out of business i can't make an estimate of how much i'm looking to spend? i'll be sleeving a pc with 2 X 8 pin + 2 X 6pin pcie , 1 24pin, 1 8pin CPU and of course a rail of sata and molex. so i just would love to know how much sleeving will i need .. and just considering this recentely. i don't know the prices of paracord/nylon per foot.. so please give me a round figure on how much i would want.

Thanks guys


----------



## morencyam

Generally, about 100ft of sleeve is enough to sleeve an entire PSU. To get a better idea of exactly how much you need, measure the length of the wire, then multiply it by the number of wire in that cable. So for example, the 24-pin is 2 ft long x 23(assuming pin 20 is unused and wires are all 1:1) wires = 46 feet. Then do the same for PCIe, EPS, and peripheral cables.

Lutro0 has teamed up with Mod Bunker to sell some of his supplies while he is getting moved into the new shop, so that could be a good option. They don't have everything yet, but they are add more as it becomes available.

Paracord tends to be cheaper than plastic PET style sleeving like that sold from MDPC-x. I've seen 100ft bundles on Amazon for about $10. Lutro0 Teleios(his version of MDPC-x plastic sleeve) is $6.50 for a 25ft roll, IIRC. You will also need heatshrink. One tool that will definitely be needed is a pin extractor tool. I boght my tool from PPCs, but there are many others that are very similar, like the LC tool sold at Mod Bunker

All in all, you're probably looking at about anywhere from $40-$60 for tools, sleeve, and shrink.


----------



## Ramzinho

Thanks morencyam. I dont think i'll need shrink .. as i'm going shrinkless.. imo it looks sexier. but that's awesome to know. i am just getting to learn about sleeving and i've this habit about planning ahead about money/time and stuff like that so when i get something to be done. it's done the best way i can do it









On the other hand.. is there a visual/quality huge difference between paracord and Plastic Pet? also how does the finished product feel on both types.

Thanks again mate.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Thanks morencyam. I dont think i'll need shrink .. as i'm going shrinkless.. imo it looks sexier. but that's awesome to know. i am just getting to learn about sleeving and i've this habit about planning ahead about money/time and stuff like that so when i get something to be done. it's done the best way i can do it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the other hand.. is there a visual/quality huge difference between paracord and Plastic Pet? also how does the finished product feel on both types.
> 
> Thanks again mate.


Paracord basically feels like shoelace, and PET is more plasticy feeling. Looks are a matter of personal preference. I like PET more than paracord myself. Not saying I don't like paracord at all, but I think in most cases, PET looks better. I've sleeved with both, and I think PET is easier to work with. But I've heard others say they think paracord is easier. Again, personal preference.

If you do shrinkless with paracord, you are right, you will not need heatshrink. But if you use PET, you will need heatshrink to aide in the melting of the PET. It's a sacrificial piece that gets removed. Lutro0 has all kinds of videos showing shrinkless sleeving methods.


----------



## Ramzinho

paracord it's then.. i want to have the looks with the least amount of money paid









and if it's going to cost less than 60$ i might do it in december not next year









wish lutroo is back on by then







, or is there a place with cheaper sleeving? i wont trust lots of ebay/amazon sellers.. i'd rather buy from a tried store


----------



## morencyam

I actually found some black 550 paracord at my local Home Depot. If there is an Army Surplus store, or maybe even a camping/outdoors type of store would have some. Or there are TONS of online sites that sell paracord real cheap. Just make sure you get either 550 or 650 paracord

Campingsurvival.com100ft spools for ~$7 in all kinds of colors
Paracord.com
ParacordPlanet

Plus pages and pages of more sites on Google

One thing to note with most paracord. It does have interior threads than can easily be pulled out. Lutro0 sells "coreless" paracord which does not have those interior threads. The interior threads can come in handy though. Tie one end to the wire and use it to thread the wire through the cord. There are other sites that sell "coreless" too. Just google "coreless paracord"


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I actually found some black 550 paracord at my local Home Depot. If there is an Army Surplus store, or maybe even a camping/outdoors type of store would have some. Or there are TONS of online sites that sell paracord real cheap. Just make sure you get either 550 or 650 paracord
> 
> Campingsurvival.com100ft spools for ~$7 in all kinds of colors
> Paracord.com
> ParacordPlanet
> 
> Plus pages and pages of more sites on Google
> 
> One thing to note with most paracord. It does have interior threads than can easily be pulled out. Lutro0 sells "coreless" paracord which does not have those interior threads. The interior threads can come in handy though. Tie one end to the wire and use it to thread the wire through the cord. There are other sites that sell "coreless" too. Just google "coreless paracord"


yeah i've seen people pulling its guts. i think it's easier to deal with









thanks a lot for your help.. 1000 FEET lmao







that's too much


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> yeah i've seen people pulling its guts. i think it's easier to deal with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks a lot for your help.. *1000 FEET lmao
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's too much*


You'll never need to buy cord again lol you could sleeve all your friends' computers as well


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> You'll never need to buy cord again lol you could sleeve all your friends' computers as well


if i get the hang of this.. i wont be doing it for free


----------



## morencyam

haha I know what you mean. I don't mind doing it since I can just sit in front of the TV, but it is time consuming. Depending on the friend, I'd probably only charge a case of beer as long as they paid material cost


----------



## ivicanikolic034

You can get 100ft 550 paracord for 5 bucks on aliexpress... And tools for 20 bucks, but you dont need them, you can make them...


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivicanikolic034*
> 
> You can get 100ft 550 paracord for 5 bucks on aliexpress... And tools for 20 bucks, but you dont need them, you can make them...


interesting.. teach me more about making my own tools


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> interesting.. teach me more about making my own tools


A cheap simple pin extractor can be made from two staples. Lowfat(at least I think it's lowfat?) swears by this.


----------



## ivicanikolic034

Just google "diy psu modding tools"


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivicanikolic034*
> 
> Just google "diy psu modding tools"


I get as first, third and fourth results the Sunbeam tools!

The second one is an interesting http://s1305.beta.photobucket.com/user/John_Quincy_Dobbs/story/61719

But Lowfat's is easiest...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> How I depin a connector w/ staples. The staples are heavy duty ones that I have filed down. They insert very easily and I've never broken them after hundreds of depins.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I insert a 1.5mm hex wrench in the front and push gently on the pin.
> 
> 
> By doing it this way you should never get a connector broken off inside by pulling on the wire.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I get as first, third and fourth results the Sunbeam tools!
> 
> The second one is an interesting http://s1305.beta.photobucket.com/user/John_Quincy_Dobbs/story/61719
> 
> But Lowfat's is easiest...


thanks wisk.. you have been so helpful


----------



## Alastair

Does anybody know where I can get custom sleeved cables? I live in South Africa and we still have a fairly small enthusiast market and nobody sells custom sleeving or sleeving supplies, does anybody know where I can get cables or if there is a company that maybe ships to South Africa for cheap?


----------



## OffTheChart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Does anybody know where I can get custom sleeved cables? I live in South Africa and we still have a fairly small enthusiast market and nobody sells custom sleeving or sleeving supplies, does anybody know where I can get cables or if there is a company that maybe ships to South Africa for cheap?


had to make my own









I have sourced from everywhere

Paracord you can get locally, unless they also out of stock

Pins and connectors I got from Lutro0, MDPC and MODDIY

My initial wire I got from MODDIY, but can look locally as I have seen (just not ordered my own)

Have also ordered sleeving previously from MDPC, but that is sadly no more

Best places would recommend now is FrozenCPU and/or Performance-PCs


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Does anybody know where I can get custom sleeved cables? I live in South Africa and we still have a fairly small enthusiast market and nobody sells custom sleeving or sleeving supplies, does anybody know where I can get cables or if there is a company that maybe ships to South Africa for cheap?
> 
> 
> 
> had to make my own
Click to expand...

Do live in South Africa? Where did you get your supplies from? What sleeving did you get.? I can do this sleeving myself. I just don't know where to find?


----------



## OffTheChart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Do live in South Africa? Where did you get your supplies from? What sleeving did you get.? I can do this sleeving myself. I just don't know where to find?


yep, in PTA

as said, got my stuff from all over.

Paracord you can get from a place close to you, paracord.co.za

ATX Pins, I have seen RS Components seem to have the right ones, but I have yet to buy them myself (still have for own needs)

Hoped they had connectors as well, but unfortunately not. Those you can get from FrozenCPU or Performance-PCs

Other sleeving you would also have to get from them or you can still try Lutro0, although I think he only does custom sleeving while they move????


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Do live in South Africa? Where did you get your supplies from? What sleeving did you get.? I can do this sleeving myself. I just don't know where to find?
> 
> 
> 
> yep, in PTA
> 
> as said, got my stuff from all over.
> 
> Paracord you can get from a place close to you, paracord.co.za
> 
> ATX Pins, I have seen RS Components seem to have the right ones, but I have yet to buy them myself (still have for own needs)
> 
> Hoped they had connectors as well, but unfortunately not. Those you can get from FrozenCPU or Performance-PCs
> 
> Other sleeving you would also have to get from them or you can still try Lutro0, although I think he only does custom sleeving while they move????
Click to expand...

well hopefully I won't need connectors. I just wish to sleeve my existing PSU cables. Thank you so much I shall check Paracord out. And heartshrink? +1 for the help.

Do you have pics of what your cables look like with them?


----------



## OffTheChart

with the paracord you can do heatshrinkless, which looks pretty good, but if you do need, just try get from places like Mantech, Rabtron or Communica

Rabtron has a nice variety of sizes


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with the paracord you can do heatshrinkless, which looks pretty good, but if you do need, just try get from places like Mantech, Rabtron or Communica
> 
> Rabtron has a nice variety of sizes


Man thanks! Those look damn good!


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with the paracord you can do heatshrinkless, which looks pretty good, but if you do need, just try get from places like Mantech, Rabtron or Communica
> 
> Rabtron has a nice variety of sizes
> 
> 
> 
> Man thanks! Those look damn good! 'Cept I am going to do blue/black!
Click to expand...


----------



## Alastair

Do they deliver? The website doesn't say all that much....


----------



## OffTheChart

who?

if Paracord.co.za - then yes (just be weary of the striking currently)
if FCPU - yes
if PPC - yes
if RS Components - yes


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> Have also ordered sleeving previously from MDPC, but that is sadly no more


What do you mean by this?


----------



## OffTheChart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What do you mean by this?


referring to their current break

guess the "no more" is bit inaccurate... maybe more of a "not for a long while"


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> referring to their current break
> 
> guess the "no more" is bit inaccurate... maybe more of a "not for a long while"


O no. I guess I shouldn't have procrastinated my order. Now I'm really humped. I don't think I have enough Grand Bleu to finish my two systems.


----------



## Lutro0

Just a heads up as allot of you have been asking.

Lutro0 Custom's Teleios Sleeving will be listed tonight for purchase at www.modbunker.com!

Also, both types of our cable combs are listed and ready for sale in new packaging.

The rest of the products will be ready soon!


----------



## gdubc

Looking forward to the orange teleios being available soon. Hope the move is going good for you!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Looking forward to the orange teleios being available soon. Hope the move is going good for you!


Thanks man it is, it got set back just a little bit due to a huge opportunity to do some work as a subcontractor but it didnt delay it much.

I so much look forward to frequenting the forums and getting back to the groove of things. My main objective is to start the sleeving guides back up and really get back to helping sleevers more.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Just a heads up as allot of you have been asking.
> 
> Lutro0 Custom's Teleios Sleeving will be listed tonight for purchase at www.modbunker.com!
> 
> Also, both types of our cable combs are listed and ready for sale in new packaging.
> 
> The rest of the products will be ready soon!


Do you ship to South Africa?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I so much look forward to frequenting the forums and getting back to the groove of things. My main objective is to start the sleeving guides back up and really get back to helping sleevers more.


----------



## OffTheChart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Do you ship to South Africa?


yes he does

currently waiting on an order from him, but our wonderful customs/PO has been sitting with it for last week +









if you plan on ordering from modbunker, please give me a shout

would really like to try out their revolver combs and we could share shipping


----------



## tinus93

So happy right now, finally got the good crimps back again. Picture in case someone doesn't know how the reels look like.


----------



## lowfat

Feels good to be doing some cable management again.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinus93*
> 
> So happy right now, finally got the good crimps back again. Picture in case someone doesn't know how the reels look like.


Ofcourse not. Where on earth do you get reels of pins at?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Ofcourse not. Where on earth do you get reels of pins at?


I'm sure if you order enough of them from FrozenCPU or PPC they'll ship them to you like that.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I'm sure if you order enough of them from FrozenCPU or PPC they'll ship them to you like that.


Maybe so. I was hoping for more of a wholesale deal.


----------



## tinus93

I had to look far to get a decent deal with shipping but if you search octopart you can find them for about $0.024 on average for one reel per piece, so $100 ex shipping. Shipping is a ***** on most larger seller and most of the time I was looking atleast $50/lbs on shipping. A reel weighs in at about 2.5lbs. And most of those companies require you to have a registered company or prices go up by 150%.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinus93*
> 
> I had to look far to get a decent deal with shipping but if you search octopart you can find them for about $0.024 on average for one reel per piece, so $100 ex shipping. Shipping is a ***** on most larger seller and most of the time I was looking atleast $50/lbs on shipping. A reel weighs in at about 2.5lbs. And most of those companies require you to have a registered company or prices go up by 150%.


Ahh..well there aint no savings in going that route for me. Thanks for the feedback!


----------



## morencyam

What's the part number. My work has some business accounts for electronic supply stores and I'll search around


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> What's the part number. My work has some business accounts for electronic supply stores and I'll search around


I tried to zoom in on the pic he posted to see if it might be on the side of the reel but its too blurry up close lol.


----------



## tinus93

39-00-0038 and 39-00-0040


----------



## morencyam

My day is pretty full so I'll look around tonight


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> My day is pretty full so I'll look around tonight


I found this lastnight. I didn't read too much into it but it looks like a sweet deal.
http://www.newark.com/molex/39-00-0038/contact-socket-24-18awg-crimp/dp/90B6898


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I found this lastnight. I didn't read too much into it but it looks like a sweet deal.
> http://www.newark.com/molex/39-00-0038/contact-socket-24-18awg-crimp/dp/90B6898


Yeah, Newark is great. We order from them almost once a week when we're working on prototypes


----------



## lowfat

Using a cable comb as an actual comb and not a place holder. I pulled all the wires off one end of the 24-pin. Pushed on the comb all the way to the PSU end. Then comb it down. Installing the retention bars as I go. The 6-pin PCIe and the other 8-pin EPS cable were done like this. I use to spend many hours getting cables straight, using a comb like this makes it a joke.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Using a cable comb as an actual comb and not a place holder. I pulled all the wires off one end of the 24-pin. Pushed on the comb all the way to the PSU end. Then comb it down. Installing the retention bars as I go. The 6-pin PCIe and the other 8-pin EPS cable were done like this. I use to spend many hours getting cables straight, using a comb like this makes it a joke.


I've also used mine in a similar combing fashion and after I got my cables trained I kept the combs on. Really helped out with the tight radius of these gpu cables.

I used one comb (12 slot) for both 6-pin gpu cables since they're parallel to one another anyhow. Works a whole lot better and is cleaner in appearance.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Feels good to be doing some cable management again.


MDPC Clips and M3/Branwashers?
I'm assuming you got those before they started to move shop?
I've been hunting for some.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> I've also used mine in a similar combing fashion and after I got my cables trained I kept the combs on. Really helped out with the tight radius of these gpu cables.
> 
> I used one comb (12 slot) for both 6-pin gpu cables since they're parallel to one another anyhow. Works a whole lot better and is cleaner in appearance.


Looks really good except the white feels overpowering.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> MDPC Clips and M3/Branwashers?
> I'm assuming you got those before they started to move shop?
> I've been hunting for some.


Yup. Bought them years ago when they sold many different sizes of clips.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Yup. Bought them years ago when they sold many different sizes of clips.


D*mn, was hoping you had a secret source. >_>
Oh well. Makes the back look so good!


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Feels good to be doing some cable management again.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Using a cable comb as an actual comb and not a place holder. I pulled all the wires off one end of the 24-pin. Pushed on the comb all the way to the PSU end. Then comb it down. Installing the retention bars as I go. The 6-pin PCIe and the other 8-pin EPS cable were done like this. I use to spend many hours getting cables straight, using a comb like this makes it a joke.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Low to be fair, I don't think what you do is considered cable management, it's more like cable domination.


----------



## GaMbi2004

very nice @lowfat









Just.. I might have gone "green" instead of "red"


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Also, im no big fan of cable combs.. but they are pretty well hidden, aren't they?
Sewing might be another way to go. Looks better IMO, and is not really that hard / time consuming, compared the the sleeve job itself.
Recently completed my sleeving project







These are early pictures, so they are still a bit messy, but I like it over combs









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








But yea.. yours will probably never be shown Im guessing? (almost a shame, hehe) and if I ever show you my hidden cables.. you will all get a heart attack







it is all just showed in there, lol.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> very nice @lowfat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just.. I might have gone "green" instead of "red"
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Also, im no big fan of cable combs.. but they are pretty well hidden, aren't they?
> Sewing might be another way to go. Looks better IMO, and is not really that hard / time consuming, compared the the sleeve job itself.
> Recently completed my sleeving project
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are early pictures, so they are still a bit messy, but I like it over combs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yea.. yours will probably never be shown Im guessing? (almost a shame, hehe) and if I ever show you my hidden cables.. you will all get a heart attack
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it is all just showed in there, lol.


First up I am lazy and your way would have required more work. I didn't want to have spend so much time measuring and measuring and measuring when drilling my own holes. All that measuring makes modding un-fun for me so I'd rather use stock holes whenever possible.










Secondly the cables would need to come straight from the top in order to keep the sleeving straight on the other side.

And I actually don't like cable combs at all. I try to avoid using them and if I do then I try to keep them out of sight. With the method I use now, I shouldn't leave them in a build again.

Same thing goes w/ stitching. Out of sight is ok but I'd prefer to not use it at all.

I finished the last set of retention bars yesterday evening. So all done w/ the backside of the motherboard tray. Not to start the hard stuff, adjusting the lengths of all the wires on the component ends.











@GaMbi2004 IIRC that was your first time sleeving? You did a good job.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> MDPC Clips and M3/Branwashers?
> I'm assuming you got those before they started to move shop?
> I've been hunting for some.
> Looks really good except the white feels overpowering.


If you are talking about the loop style ones with bolt pass trough (not the comb clamp ones) then they sell those at Home Depot Lowes and any larger hardware store.


----------



## OffTheChart

planning to get me one of these when our stupid postal service gets back on track

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111353253712


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> First up I am lazy and your way would have required more work. I didn't want to have spend so much time measuring and measuring and measuring when drilling my own holes. All that measuring makes modding un-fun for me so I'd rather use stock holes whenever possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Secondly the cables would need to come straight from the top in order to keep the sleeving straight on the other side.
> 
> And I actually don't like cable combs at all. I try to avoid using them and if I do then I try to keep them out of sight. With the method I use now, I shouldn't leave them in a build again.
> 
> Same thing goes w/ stitching. Out of sight is ok but I'd prefer to not use it at all.
> 
> I finished the last set of retention bars yesterday evening. So all done w/ the backside of the motherboard tray. Not to start the hard stuff, adjusting the lengths of all the wires on the component ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @GaMbi2004 IIRC that was your first time sleeving? You did a good job.


Oooh.. you are using factory holes.. I did not notice that -_- probably couldn't have been put up any cleaner than that then









Yes, it was/is my first sleeving.. so im probably not the best one to point out what can be improved on.. you busted me on that one








But im glad you think it turned out ok ^_^ cheers.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> planning to get me one of these when our stupid postal service gets back on track
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111353253712


I need to find one of *THOSE* in the U.S....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> If you are talking about the loop style ones with bolt pass trough (not the comb clamp ones) then they sell those at Home Depot Lowes and any larger hardware store.


Yes, I was talking about the "P-clips". The ones from hardware stores have ugly writing on the top-side and have bad finishes. Ones from MDPC are of much higher quality.


----------



## sinnedone

The ones I've seen look exactly like lowfats with no writing and a nice semigloss sheen to em. Maybe it just depends on the region you are in.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> The ones I've seen look exactly like lowfats with no writing and a nice semigloss sheen to em. Maybe it just depends on the region you are in.


I might order the ones linked from the UK if they're better than what I can find. I'll have to send the blokes a message.


----------



## morencyam

http://www.hcl-clamping.com/Nylon-Plastic-P-Clips-Black-or-Natural-Micro-Plastics-P31


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> http://www.hcl-clamping.com/Nylon-Plastic-P-Clips-Black-or-Natural-Micro-Plastics-P31


Those have writing on the surface. I can get those from the hardware store.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Those have writing on the surface. I can get those from the hardware store.


The measurements of these P-clips are when they are open. They're sold in 100 packs.

1/4 inch
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049MV0YU/ref=pd_aw_sims_4?pi=SS115&simLd=1

3/8 inch
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049MWVJ8/ref=pd_aw_sims_1?pi=SS115&simLd=1

1/2 inch
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049MV0YA/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SS115&simLd=1

3/4 inch
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049MV112/ref=pd_aw_sims_4?pi=SS115&simLd=1

1 inch
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049MV112/ref=pd_aw_sims_4?pi=SS115&simLd=1


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> The measurements of these P-clips are when they are open. They're sold in 100 packs.
> 
> 1/4 inch
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049MV0YU/ref=pd_aw_sims_4?pi=SS115&simLd=1
> 
> 3/8 inch
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049MWVJ8/ref=pd_aw_sims_1?pi=SS115&simLd=1
> 
> 1/2 inch
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049MV0YA/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SS115&simLd=1
> 
> 3/4 inch
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049MV112/ref=pd_aw_sims_4?pi=SS115&simLd=1
> 
> 1 inch
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049MV112/ref=pd_aw_sims_4?pi=SS115&simLd=1


100 Packs of each (@[email protected])


----------



## gdubc

Well, at least you shouldn't have to buy them again....


----------



## lowfat




----------



## Buehlar

Has anyone tired one of these ATX pin removal tools? Looks very durable.

http://stores.ebay.com/Modpcuk/Tools-/_i.html?_fsub=7026635011&_sid=1007185971&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322


----------



## morencyam

Idk, it the arms look a little wide. I basically have the MDPC removal tool and it works great


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Idk, it the arms look a little wide. I basically have the MDPC removal tool and it works great


It does look a bit wide, I found a video demo...turn the volume down lol


----------



## tinus93

First part done. Album with more images here


http://imgur.com/14uR5


----------



## DesmoLocke

Thanks in part to this thread, Lutro0's guides, and other YouTube videos, I'm convinced I want to try my hand at custom sleeving for my next build. I really think the time commitment and custom lengths will make me appreciate good cable management like I haven't before.

I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go, but the main one I have now is this. Is there a way to get the cables to stick together without using clips or combs? Is it feasible to use glue or something?

I could possibly see glue working as long as the cables are already trained and the glue dries clear. Of course I wouldn't use glue for the whole length of the cable. I would just use it for what is visible and go all the way to the back of the case up to a cable comb I guess so the cable wouldn't want to pry apart. What do you think? Could it work?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinus93*
> 
> First part done. Album with more images here
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/14uR5


Very nice.









Grand bleu + shade 19 + white?


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DesmoLocke*
> 
> Thanks in part to this thread, Lutro0's guides, and other YouTube videos, I'm convinced I want to try my hand at custom sleeving for my next build. I really think the time commitment and custom lengths will make me appreciate good cable management like I haven't before.
> 
> I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go, but the main one I have now is this. Is there a way to get the cables to stick together without using clips or combs? Is it feasible to use glue or something?
> 
> I could possibly see glue working as long as the cables are already trained and the glue dries clear. Of course I wouldn't use glue for the whole length of the cable. I would just use it for what is visible and go all the way to the back of the case up to a cable comb I guess so the cable wouldn't want to pry apart. What do you think? Could it work?


You can use Polymorph on plastic sleeving (I don't know about paracord) - or some local equivalent - to hold a cable bundle together, either throughout or at stress points where the cable is bent or looped, and although the adhesion is very strong sleeving can be torn away from it without damage - in fact, it's a very good way to clean sleeving.

When you use it throughout the cable, of course, it sets to a rigid shape - which you must take into account if you have to pass it through apertures in the casing to get it to its final position.

The best way to use it after the first boil is to roll it out using a solid wooden rolling pin in very thin sheets which you can then scissor up into precise shapes.

You then lay out the first layer of the cable - in a form, like the following, if you are setting the entire bundle - making sure, with masking tape (but not something like cling film which the Polymorph would stick to) over a plasticine base, that no molten polymorph can seep through to the outside of the cable.



Then place your Polymorph strip over the top, melt it with a heat gun and then press the second layer onto it as it begins to set, which takes about 2-3 minutes with 60 degree Polymorph.

There's a range of dyes which can be mixed and applied to the Polymorph when it is first boiled. So with a multi-coloured cable you could roll different coloured Polymorph into ribbons before sticking them together in the rolling process in order to disguise the binding agent.


----------



## tinus93

White, acid midnight blue and black.


----------



## OffTheChart

k, asking here before I make own thread:

- any1 here done custom cables on an AX1200i in a 900D?

would love to find out the shortest possible length for the 24-pin and the 8-pin EPS


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> You can use Polymorph ...


It sounds wonderful, and I think I am able to visualise how it works, but I had to read your text twice over before understanding. The picture isn't immediately obvious either.

But the idea is that it's like stealth combs.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> k, asking here before I make own thread:
> 
> - any1 here done custom cables on an AX1200i in a 900D?
> 
> would love to find out the shortest possible length for the 24-pin and the 8-pin EPS


Every system is different. Just make up 1 crimped, sleeved cable first. Make it a bit too long, and try it in pins 1, 12, 13, and 24. Then you can shorten it as you need.


----------



## OffTheChart

true that WiSK

was actually just looking for the shortest, straight possible length as I don't have the PSU or case to measure self

but it's fine, I took some old 60cm that I had left

also, just wanted to make sure about something, as it seems logical to me, but I may be missing something...

if you look at this:
AXI Series - 1500/1200/860/760
AX Series - 860/760
HX Series - 1050/850/750/650
TXM Series - 850/750/650/550
CXM Series - 750/600/500/430
RM Series - 1000/850/750/650/550/450

which is PSU compatibility for the newer Gen 2 Corsair sleeved cable kits. that would basically mean that my RM1000 cables would work on any of the other listed PSUs?

so basically if I now have to swap an AX850's 24-pin to match that of an 860i, I can basically just use my own RM1000 to match?
EDIT: k have to add... yes the 24-pin cable is separate from that kit, but it also lists that a 24-pin cable of the Gen 2, is compatible with the RM and AX-i series

and as always, appreciate the help/info/advice


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> which is PSU compatibility for the newer Gen 2 Corsair sleeved cable kits.


I'm not an expert on Corsair PSUs but I do agree that looking at the compatibility lists for their factory-sleeved cables is a good indication of pinout.


----------



## abirli

mhmm, the 24p on the ax series is the only difference (cant speak for the aux cables)


----------



## OffTheChart

yeah, see the AX1200 especially and then ofc the older AX series

luckily the AX850 kit will be a complete change to an AX860i, so not really worried too much about that pin-out

will see how the connectors themselves match up


----------



## Ragsters

Can someone please help me figure out if the cables for the first generation seasonic x-650 work with the x-850 first gen?


----------



## morencyam

According to the Repository of PSU Pinouts, it looks like as long as it's the same generation(KM denotes the series maybe?) they should be the same.
Quote:


> Fanless FL1 - X-400, X-460
> Platinum Series, Fanless FL2 - P-400, P-460, P-520
> X-Series KM1 - X-650, X-750
> X-Series KM2 - X-560, X-660, X-760, X-850
> X-Series KM3 - X-650, X-750, X-850
> X-Series XM - X-1050, X-1250
> Platinum Series XP1 - P-860, P-1000, P-1200
> Platinum Series XP2 - P-660, P-760, P-860
> Platinum Series XP3 - P-1200
> 
> These are all likely to apply to future releases of SeaSonic PSUs until further notice and can easily be verified by inspecting the supplied cables in the case of those supplied with coloured cables or checking with a multi-meter for the all black cables supplied with some of the later revisions.
> 
> You should always double check these cables before use as incorrect pin-outs will cause component destruction. As I mention Ad nauseum I recommend the Thermaltake Dr Power II which will check every cable on an ATX PSU.
> 
> SeaSonic uses a standard method of pin-outs for all their current PSUs for the following modular connectors used at the PSU socket:
> 
> 6 Pin Auxiliary Connector - used for 4 Pin Molex/Auxiliary Connectors and SATA Power Connectors
> In the case of the 4 Pin Molex/Auxiliary Connector pin-out no. 4 (3.3V) is not used.
> 
> 8 Pin Connector - Used for CPU/EPS Connectors and PCI-E Connectors. Uses 12V and Ground Connectors only.
> 
> 12 Pin Connectors - Used mainly for PCI-E Connectors but also for additional 8 Pin CPU/EPS Cables (only 4 x 12V and 4 x Ground pin-outs are populated). Uses 12V and Ground Connectors only. Where there are insufficient Ground connections e.g. for 2 x 8 Pin PCI-E Connectors it is necessary to splice Ground cables together to make up enough wires to connect to the 8 Pin PCI-E Connector.
> 
> Because the connectors at the component end i.e. EPS/CPU/PCI-E/Molex/Auxiliary/SATA are all standard it should be easy to refer to the standard pin-outs for each of these connectors to correctly wire them up.
> -Big Elf


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I need to extend 14 fan cables, and resleeve a ton of ugly red EVGA PSU cables. Is the investment into crimpers and strippers, and the rest of the tools worth it? I'd love to do a custom cable theme. How much am I looking at? Might have to cut out a vidcard in my build if it's over 250$ for cabling... (was going to do three 980 GTXs)


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> According to the Repository of PSU Pinouts, it looks like as long as it's the same generation(KM denotes the series maybe?) they should be the same.


Thanks for this! Looks like im out of luck being that there was never even a series 1 of the 850w.


----------



## morencyam

IMO, if you are going to be making custom cables regularly(more than for just this build) I think it's worth it. But if you are only going to be making custom cables for this build, might not be worth it to go for the top of the line stuff. I just finished making custom length cables for my build and will probably never do it again. I just used a cheap pair of wire strippers and a manual, non-ratchet crimer we had at work


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I used to do satellite and cable installation, as well as sometimes I'd have to do phone-rewiring. One thing I know- the job is 10x easier and quicker with ratchet style crimpers and higher end wire strippers (especially if you're messing with thick insulated coaxial). I just don't want to invest 250$ in tools alone. I can do $50-$100 on the tools though.

I've got 14 fans I need to extend and resleeve, as well as all of the PCI-E cables, plus EVGA didn't do that great of a job sleeving, it's just a single sleeve per jumble of cables. I want to do tan (to match my noctuas), blue and black or grey wiring.


----------



## lowfat

I'd invest in good strippers and good crimpers. Those are what I find are important. Just use staples to depin. You can just use bic lighter for the melting of the shrink.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I'd invest in good strippers and good crimpers. Those are what I find are important. Just use staples to depin. You can just use bic lighter for the melting of the shrink.


I hate to market and what not, however we do now have LC crimpers at Modbunker.com and you can find the knippex strippers at either newegg or amazon.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I hate to market and what not, however we do now have LC crimpers at Modbunker.com and you can find the knippex strippers at either newegg or amazon.


Aaah that's where your site is now. I kept going to Lutro0 to try to find your stuff. I left a few messages on your facebook page, (the ones from Tyler)


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

I do not have the time to go through and Modify another set of cables, unfortunately. I know I can order the Pre-Made cables for now, but here is my question:

Where can I order a Dual PSU 24 connector set for an EVGA 1300 G2? I plan to run these two at all times, and would like them to run as best as possible and be wired properly. I am looking for straight black. I do not want fancy colors for the time being. Any ideas?


----------



## Ramzinho

i couldn't resist the beauty of work you guys pull off here, i'm going to tackle sleeving in my next upgrade, but i'll 100% need a better water cooling case. mine was so so hard to work with.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Where can I order a Dual PSU 24 connector set for an EVGA 1300 G2?


Just to confirm what you mean: you want to run two PSUs in parallel and power the motherboard with both at the same time?


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Just to confirm what you mean: you want to run two PSUs in parallel and power the motherboard with both at the same time?


I want both power supplies to turn on at the same time, one powers the Motherboard, One GPU and peripherals, while the other powers the other two GPUs. and Pumps for watercooling. I don't want to manually turn the second power supply on every time I boot my system.

I currently have an Enermax 1350w MaxRevo running the MoBo and one GPU and and a 1500w running the other 2 GPUs and the pumps. I would like to get them to matching PSUs at least.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I want both power supplies to turn on at the same time, one powers the Motherboard, One GPU and peripherals, while the other powers the other two GPUs. and Pumps for watercooling. I don't want to manually turn the second power supply on every time I boot my system.


I'm 100% sure there was a tutorial on the forum by a member i've seen just a short time ago.. i'll try to dig it out for you,


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I'm 100% sure there was a tutorial on the forum by a member i've seen just a short time ago.. i'll try to dig it out for you,


Fantastic.. I appreciate the help. I have a lot going on (mid life crisis?) and decided to treat myself to a TH10A as a reward for not killing everyone.. I can modify a little, but I don't want to spend 3 more weeks trying to get everything together because of work. Any help is greatly appreciated.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> I want both power supplies to turn on at the same time, one powers the Motherboard, One GPU and peripherals, while the other powers the other two GPUs. and Pumps for watercooling. I don't want to manually turn the second power supply on every time I boot my system.
> 
> I currently have an Enermax 1350w MaxRevo running the MoBo and one GPU and and a 1500w running the other 2 GPUs and the pumps. I would like to get them to matching PSUs at least.


The easiest way, if you don't want to do any modding is the Bitspower X-station

http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81091023&kind2=46

I think the one Ramzinho is thinking of is the mod where one PSU is a backup?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet-Tech*
> 
> Fantastic.. I appreciate the help. I have a lot going on (mid life crisis?) and decided to treat myself to a TH10A as a reward for not killing everyone.. I can modify a little, but I don't want to spend 3 more weeks trying to get everything together because of work. Any help is greatly appreciated.


i'm 30 .. and lately i've been spending on my PC like nutts. i think i blew my 2 years saving on my GPU and new loop







. i feel ya brah


----------



## OffTheChart

basically something like this?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8787/cab-168/Single_Braid_Sleeved_Lian-Li_Dual_Power_Supply_Adapter_Cable.html


----------



## gdubc

@fast_fate rigged something up with simple relays. Start reading *here* for more info. Interesting stuff. A few different ways you can go about setting it up depending on what you want.


----------



## richie_2010

hi guys ive been looking through the thread and have seen all the diff sleeving colour combos and dont know what to choose pattern wise for my cables.

im looking at using white red and black being either all three or 2 of them.
its going to be a long term mod to my case but im wanting to paint it white inside and out so thinking maybe to use red and black instead
http://i.imgur.com/L63mRAG.png

or if im not able to paint the case but add white accents with the red
http://i.imgur.com/4DXT5YP.png
or this one
http://i.imgur.com/OiAZEz2.png

some help would be appreciated guys, ive drawn a blank
this is the website ive been using to do colour patterns
http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/?p=54313225546a9


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/OiAZEz2.png


In a white case that one ^

Or maybe like this


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I'm gettin' ready to place my order, a mix of Amazon and Lutro0 stuff, (wire strippers and some other tools I want, like a hex-head screwdriver for the tiny button-screws I use to hold the fans in, since I don't like phillips), and I'm lookin' up paracording. Is Paracord Planet okay? Heard good and bad things about them. I'm about to get a bunch of molex connectors from Lutro0 along with the crimper, weaver and a few other things, a bit of a hit to the wallet for customized cables hehe, I think it'll end up costing the same amount if I do them myself vs if I have someone else do them, except I can get the Exact measurements and such that I want this way. Plus future builds will end up being a lot cheaper. It's really the tools that are hard on the wallet, but when it comes down to it, having the tools means future builds, future work, etc. will end up costing cheaper in the long run.

Any tips and recommendations?

It's also come to my attention modbunker is out of stock on both colors of wire. Any suggestions on wire?

I like this color combo:








http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i'm 30 .. and lately i've been spending on my PC like nutts. i think i blew my 2 years saving on my GPU and new loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . i feel ya brah


Sorry for so many pictures, but this is what I am looking for. This is from Signularity Computers. I currently have my MaxRevo's set up the same way. It is literally the Jumper setup to turn the second PSU on, and nothing more. As stated, I know how to set this up, I was just trying to figure out how to go about purchasing them rather than tearing my hands apart again. I think I will just take the jump and do this if nothing else. Looking at the way it is installed looks extremely simple honestly.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Scarlet, that's a beautiful job. Go for it! If you do it yourself I wanna see logs


----------



## sdmf74

Hey guys I just found this thread. I desperately need to replace these ugly cable combs (kobra mod smart). The problem is I have the EVGA PSU cable set and it has thinner cables, does anyone know where I can find some that fit on
thinner style cables???
heres a pic:



I found these but not sure if they will work


----------



## OffTheChart

getting annoyed by our postal service over here









been almost 2 months now waiting for some small goodies from Lutro0, one being the very important die change

those Ensourced combs also look like 4mm types, although the fact that they basically seem to have no space between them, it could maybe work for smaller diameter wire as well

hmmm, thinner wires... smaller gauger or just thinner wall???


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Hey guys I just found this thread. I desperately need to replace these ugly cable combs (kobra mod smart). The problem is I have the EVGA PSU cable set and it has thinner cables, does anyone know where I can find some that fit on
> thinner style cables???
> heres a pic:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found these but not sure if they will work


Considered needle and thread?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Sorry for posting the same pictures over and over again.. :/

I dont have a link for the guide.. I think I posted it in my build log though


----------



## sdmf74

Just thinner sleeving but I noticed a couple of the wires seem to be a gauge thinner for some reason.

EVGA cable set for supernova 1300g2



That needle and thread job looks pretty good but I dont think I will try that


----------



## lowfat

Removed the combs from my 24-pin + 8-pin run. The cables are tight and trained enough that they have mostly stayed in place w/o the combs.

@ the PSU


Down the backside


Then out the front


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Removed the combs from my 24-pin + 8-pin run. The cables are tight and trained enough that they have mostly stayed in place w/o the combs.
> 
> @ the PSU
> 
> 
> Down the backside
> 
> 
> Then out the front


why on earth am i sleeving same colors as you







.. i just ordered royal blue grey and black







... same taste







... i am interested to know what blue is that you are using?


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> why on earth am i sleeving same colors as you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. i just ordered royal blue grey and black
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... same taste
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... i am interested to know what blue is that you are using?


its grand Bleu from MDPC


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> why on earth am i sleeving same colors as you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. i just ordered royal blue grey and black
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... same taste
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... i am interested to know what blue is that you are using?


It is MDPC-X grand bleu and MDPC-X shade 19 (dark grey). The original plan was to do grand bleu + Teleios blue. But the weave on each brand of sleeving looked so significantly different. Side by side it just looked wrong.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Scarlet, that's a beautiful job. Go for it! If you do it yourself I wanna see logs


I really don't want to spend more money, but if I do, I promise a log for the entire process. It will be going into a TH10a and I will look to make sure the cables are fitted if I go all out with it. I move from South Korea to the US (unknown destination so far) so I will be able to do more when I get there, and have my own place. I am looking to run all of my tubing behind the res (res x3) so it goes behind the backplate and leaves the res full floating with no visible tubes at the front also.


----------



## OffTheChart

@lowfat with skills like that, the combs actually start to make your work look untidy


----------



## OffTheChart

k so first off, forgive the image sizes as I was trying to maintain the quality since my phone takes poor pictures









 

hope these two shows better what is wrong with crimps

tried moving the dies, but then the problem shifts from the inner crimps, to the outer


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> @lowfat with skills like that, the combs actually start to make your work look untidy


Except I humped up bad. I have to redo the entire 24-pin from scratch.


----------



## OffTheChart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Except I humped up bad. I have to redo the entire 24-pin from scratch.


eish...

how come?

ag but that is what custom builds are all about I guess

you try, you fail, you learn... next time you do it better or you still do it, but with that intention in mind when you started


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> tried moving the dies, but then the problem shifts from the inner crimps, to the outer


Hmm, try two tests.

1. Open the crimper fully, loosen and tighten both dies so they get a 'natural position'. Make a test crimp and photo.

2. Loosen both dies. Then close the crimper fully (5 clicks or whatever) so the dies are held together. Then tighten each die, top one first, then bottom. Make a test crimp and photo.


----------



## OffTheChart

will give those a try.

the problem that you can figure out from when it crimps, is if you look on the die, there is a 'step-down/-up' from the piece that crimps the back and the piece that crimps the front.

now what happens is, that 'step' causes the pin to 'fold into', instead of holding it in place.

like in this picture, if you had to press down on the black piece, in the 1st part it would fold, but in 2nd part it would stay flat


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> eish...
> 
> how come?
> 
> ag but that is what custom builds are all about I guess
> 
> you try, you fail, you learn... next time you do it better or you still do it, but with that intention in mind when you started


All the wires are in the wrong spot.


----------



## OffTheChart

wish my cables could be in the wrong spot, looking like that


----------



## tinus93

Wires look all weird, was windy this morning and they kept falling over. Higher resolutions here


http://imgur.com/qmaEx


----------



## morencyam

Weird how? I think they look good


----------



## tinus93

In the album at some pictures the wires look off on for example the 8 pin eps. Wind was messing with me


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Hey least you can get them to stay right, my para never did









On another note, that Knipex Automatic Insulation Stripper (the one Lutro0 sells) is awesome, stripping and cutting wires is like a hot knife through butter, well worth the money









Anyone else start a sleeving job then get half way through and buy completely different stuff and start again? was going full para then changed my mind and doing teleios


----------



## iBored

What's the difference between the 16 awg electrical wire from lutro0 and moddiy?

I'm asking cos my order from lutro0 is still pending. Gotta finish up my cables soon so I thought I'd order from moddiy.


----------



## morencyam

I think the Lutro0 wire has a different thickness insulation. I can't remember if it's larger or smaller than normal, but my guess would be slightly larger. The actual wire itself though is more than likely the same

EDIT: as pointed out by failwheeldrive, the Lutro0 16 AWG has thinner insulation than regular 16AWG


----------



## failwheeldrive

Lutro's stuff is actually a thinner insulation. Most 16awg electrical wire I've seen has too wide an OD for standard ATX terminals.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Lutro's stuff is actually a thinner insulation. Most 16awg electrical wire I've seen has too wide an OD for standard ATX terminals.


Ah, I knew it was a different thickness but couldn't remember for sure. Thanks for correcting me


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Question, how do you cut out the damn fan crimps? do you need a straight edge cutter or something

Sorry for the derpy question


----------



## vilius572

How hard is it to sleeve a Corsair AX860's cables? Is it worth do it my self or just order new ones from Lutro0 or Moddiy


----------



## morencyam

what do you mean cut out the fan crimps? Remove the pins from the 3-pin plug?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> what do you mean cut out the fan crimps? Remove the pins from the 3-pin plug?


Nah I ment these



Mine arnt attached onto the strip like that pic tho, there attached the other end (part that goes into the plug)


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Nah I ment these
> 
> 
> 
> Mine arnt attached onto the strip like that pic tho, there attached the other end (part that goes into the plug)


That's weird. The ones I bought look like the picture.


----------



## WiSK

I think the ones with the strip across the pin itself are meant for a crimping machine. Where did you buy them?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> That's weird. The ones I bought look like the picture.


Yeah seems like most peoples are like that pic
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I think the ones with the strip across the pin itself are meant for a crimping machine. Where did you buy them?


I got them with all my other crimps, from Lutro0s store


----------



## lowfat

Do you have pics?


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Do you have pics?


Do now lol


Spoiler: Pic





Sorry potato photo. Need a macro lens lol



Think I'm gonna need to buy different ones, these ones are a pain, need to crimp, cut and file them and then one out of 3 dont go in or come out anyway


----------



## lowfat

I had got some of those once from somewhere. I thought they were incorrectly manufacturered so I threw them out. I couldn't figure out how to use them.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I had got some of those once from somewhere. I thought they were incorrectly manufacturered so I threw them out. I couldn't figure out how to use them.


I bought these months ago but only just realized how weird they were, spent a good hour working out how to clip them without damaging them but something that should take 5 mins is now taking me 30









Mod Bunker stocks the same ones to


----------



## Phantatsy

Changed my mind. I actually got the same ones, from Lutro0 as well. I guess I forgot because I already cut them all, lol.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

I'm trying to think how I can work with these, its either put up with them and hope to hell they work (once there in there in they dont wanna come out without breaking them) or seeing I need to solder wire on anyway I might just use the original crimps and splice in another 20cm or so of wire

Edit, is there any where you can buy the terminal crimp thingys loose? I really cant be bothered fixing these ones


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Finding a Noctua shade of brown in paracord is hard...


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Edit, is there any where you can buy the terminal crimp thingys loose? I really cant be bothered fixing these ones


I did some digging. The ones you have are from the Molex KK 254 range. The "crimp terminal" (series 2759, e.g. part number 08-50-0113) type, when bought on a reel have the "carrier" at the pin end. You can see this on the design drawing on the Molex product page (top left). I think these are intended for automated work.

Loose terminals exist: part number is 08-50-0114 but they are over 6x the cost of the pins on the reel. And I can't be sure that they don't also have the carrier at the wrong end. You can try to order 1 piece and see if it's right. Here a link for Australia http://au.element14.com/molex/08-50-0114/terminal-solderless-22-30-awg/dp/1462641?in_merch=Plugs%20&%20Sockets%20from%20Molex


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I did some digging. The ones you have are from the Molex KK 254 range. The "crimp terminal" (series 2759, e.g. part number 08-50-0113) type, when bought on a reel have the "carrier" at the pin end. You can see this on the design drawing on the Molex product page (top left). I think these are intended for automated work.
> 
> Loose terminals exist: part number is 08-50-0114 but they are over 6x the cost of the pins on the reel. And I can't be sure that they don't also have the carrier at the wrong end. You can try to order 1 piece and see if it's right. Here a link for Australia http://au.element14.com/molex/08-50-0114/terminal-solderless-22-30-awg/dp/1462641?in_merch=Plugs%20&%20Sockets%20from%20Molex


Thanks









Only ones I was able to find were the ones I already have, I ended up spending an hour cutting and filing my ones tho, might end up buying some loose ones just in case

If any of you guys extend the wire on your fans do you splice the new wire to the existing or do you re solder the wire directly onto the pcb?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> getting annoyed by our postal service over here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> been almost 2 months now waiting for some small goodies from Lutro0, one being the very important die change
> 
> those Ensourced combs also look like 4mm types, although the fact that they basically seem to have no space between them, it could maybe work for smaller diameter wire as well
> 
> hmmm, thinner wires... smaller gauger or just thinner wall???


Shoot me a pm and we will get it to you asap!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It is MDPC-X grand bleu and MDPC-X shade 19 (dark grey). The original plan was to do grand bleu + Teleios blue. But the weave on each brand of sleeving looked so significantly different. Side by side it just looked wrong.


Thanks for the mention, we hear allot that its the same thing and when you put the two next to each other the diff is very noticeable, btw lowfat always appreciate your work with sleeving. Its nice to see someone always pushing the limits. =)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> What's the difference between the 16 awg electrical wire from lutro0 and moddiy?
> 
> I'm asking cos my order from lutro0 is still pending. Gotta finish up my cables soon so I thought I'd order from moddiy.


The insulation is the biggest factor, we have a thin insulation that makes it easy to sleeve with! Please PM me and we can get your order out asap!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Question, how do you cut out the damn fan crimps? do you need a straight edge cutter or something
> 
> Sorry for the derpy question


Not a derpy question at all, we tried to find the cheapest source of these for everyone to keep the cost down - however it seems the molex branded ones are made for machines.

This can be solved by using a flush cutter and trimming it as close to the original terminal as possible - I have had to do a ton of these myself and will be looking for a loose terminal to sell in the future to help everyone. But it just takes a little time and trimming when taking them offa the reel. Please PM me if you need more info on it and I will personally show you how.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Not a derpy question at all, we tried to find the cheapest source of these for everyone to keep the cost down - however it seems the molex branded ones are made for machines.
> 
> This can be solved by using a flush cutter and trimming it as close to the original terminal as possible - I have had to do a ton of these myself and will be looking for a loose terminal to sell in the future to help everyone. But it just takes a little time and trimming when taking them offa the reel. Please PM me if you need more info on it and I will personally show you how.


Yeah I figured that out, ended up spending almost an hour cutting and filing them so they actually come out and not get jammed in







pretty sure I got them all kinda right, gonna work on my fans today and we'll see what happens










Was just a bit stumped when I first had a good look at them


----------



## OffTheChart

@Lutro0 haha, nah as I said, it is OUR postal service. big problems which have made people wait months for their packages. my order is here, just not HERE









@WiSK once again in your debt. amazing how me saying "I have tried that" and then going back and trying it again, with slightest change, works.

did the loosen both die and close crimp and for a moment I thought the top was done tight, but then I noticed it was a bit loose.

I actually did a crimp and it came out perfect. decided to just tighten it bit more and so far so good.

I do notice though that already a few crimps in, the one side does tend to start doing the 'bending' inwards again,
but now at least have a good point to reference from.

managed to do full ATX with just that minor bend on the last few, so happy indeed. if I have to just minor change now and then, so be it.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Yeah I figured that out, ended up spending almost an hour cutting and filing them so they actually come out and not get jammed in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pretty sure I got them all kinda right, gonna work on my fans today and we'll see what happens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was just a bit stumped when I first had a good look at them


Yea man it was never our intent to make it harder, just cheaper on you guys. We will find another source though. =)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> @Lutro0 haha, nah as I said, it is OUR postal service. big problems which have made people wait months for their packages. my order is here, just not HERE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @WiSK once again in your debt. amazing how me saying "I have tried that" and then going back and trying it again, with slightest change, works.
> 
> did the loosen both die and close crimp and for a moment I thought the top was done tight, but then I noticed it was a bit loose.
> 
> I actually did a crimp and it came out perfect. decided to just tighten it bit more and so far so good.
> 
> I do notice though that already a few crimps in, the one side does tend to start doing the 'bending' inwards again,
> but now at least have a good point to reference from.
> 
> managed to do full ATX with just that minor bend on the last few, so happy indeed. if I have to just minor change now and then, so be it.


Oh good, and not good. We try to get all of our orders out asap - I am sorry to hear you are having issues. If there is anything I can do to help let me know.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> @Lutro0 haha, nah as I said, it is OUR postal service. big problems which have made people wait months for their packages. my order is here, just not HERE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @WiSK once again in your debt. amazing how me saying "I have tried that" and then going back and trying it again, with slightest change, works.
> 
> did the loosen both die and close crimp and for a moment I thought the top was done tight, but then I noticed it was a bit loose.
> 
> I actually did a crimp and it came out perfect. decided to just tighten it bit more and so far so good.
> 
> I do notice though that already a few crimps in, the one side does tend to start doing the 'bending' inwards again,
> but now at least have a good point to reference from.
> 
> managed to do full ATX with just that minor bend on the last few, so happy indeed. if I have to just minor change now and then, so be it.


I had to do the same thing with my crimper a few months back. What atx terminals are you using? I used the ones that came with the crimpers from Lutro0 and later used some made by Phobya that I had ordered from PPC's. I found that the Phobya pins were easier for me to work with. The Lutro0 pins had too long of tabs/wings on them that made it difficult for me to crimp.


----------



## OffTheChart

I used some from Lutro0, MODDIY and MDPC

basically all the same, except I think my first batch was all with the short back wings which didn't work.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Anyone here ever order from a distributor? I don't think gold-plated will really be cheaper through a bulk distributor or a smaller retail store though. Probably tin or phosphor bronze are acceptable for ATX pins?


----------



## tinus93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Anyone here ever order from a distributor? I don't think gold-plated will really be cheaper through a bulk distributor or a smaller retail store though. Probably tin or phosphor bronze are acceptable for ATX pins?


The price difference in wholesale is noticeable but only if you buy per reel. If you buy on most (read most if not all of them on octopart) wholesalers you will find that shipping is through the roof not making it worth it. I had a chance to get my reels for cheap because the company I work with uses a lot of molex parts. Shipping was cheaper because of this making it worth it.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Really stupid question again, mixing wire gauge on a fan does it matter?

Was gonna use Lutro0s 22AWG on an AP-15 but realized the gauges are different


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Uh oops, wrong thread.

Hmm, thinking of a question or comment I could put here. I've been trying to think of ways to wire my fans up the best, not sure how but it should go well.


----------



## Himo5

Just a thought on making fan cables manageable - it is just possible to get four 24awg wires in 3mm sleeving if you're careful with maintaining a four-square profile throughout the sleeve. When you do this the cable becomes totally positionable and enables you to track it through channels and round corners and keep it completely out of your way. You can do the same thing with 18awg and 4mm sleeve, which helps get those peripheral power cables under control.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Just a thought on making fan cables manageable - it is just possible to get four 24awg wires in 3mm sleeving if you're careful with maintaining a four-square profile throughout the sleeve. When you do this the cable becomes totally positionable and enables you to track it through channels and round corners and keep it completely out of your way. You can do the same thing with 18awg and 4mm sleeve, which helps get those peripheral power cables under control.


You can get 4 fan cables in a 4mm sleeve but I'm not sure about 3mm. Would also depend on brand of sleeve.


----------



## Himo5

Here's a 14cm XT fan kitted out with original Scythe 24awg PWM wire covered in copper foil, sleeved with ModDiy Gold 3mm High Density Sleeving, heatshrinked at the hub with 4mm Glossy Black and on the cable with 6mm 4/1 heatshrink and 8mm on top of that to mould the plug into position.

Behind it, from left to right, there's a piece of ModDiy 3mm Black on a 24awg fan cable, some green/black Telios 4mm on four strands of 24/0.2mm wire, and some Black 4mm ModDiy sleeve on 3 strands of 24/0.2mm and a strand of UL1007-18awg.


----------



## tinus93

I cut my thumb bad on this one. Fingers slipped of the wire and one of the terminals went straight into my thumb leaving a nice cut







Album for larger images is here


http://imgur.com/8Rjx5


----------



## lowfat

Use zip ties instead of your fingers to hold the sleeve in place. You'll get way tighter weave and no hand damage.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Use zip ties instead of your fingers to hold the sleeve in place. You'll get way tighter weave and no hand damage.


Never thought of that! I have 100's of zip ties just laying around. @[email protected]


----------



## lowfat

I can by 300 zip ties for $1 at local dollar stores. Since I started to use them no more hand cramping, cuts, or sore finger tips from running my fingers down the sleeve.


----------



## tinus93

Hmm yeah I could use that aswell. But it adds in some extra work but it would help me while my thumb is healing. Thanks for the tip


----------



## lowfat

Actually I find it to be much less work. Adding a zip tie and cutting it off after doesn't take much time. But the labor and pain it saves me is worth it. I plan to make a guide here the next time I do a cable.


----------



## WiSK

I use gardener's gloves. I found that zip ties sometime leave a bit of an impression in the sleeve.


----------



## Himo5

It may waste the masking tape and tissue paper but when it comes to Stretch and Melt time this contraption is what I depend on. A sawn off bit of old telescopic aerial gets the used up heatshrink off easily and stops any burning around the insulation clamp.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Really stupid question again, mixing wire gauge on a fan does it matter?
> 
> Was gonna use Lutro0s 22AWG on an AP-15 but realized the gauges are different


Bump, anyone?


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Actually I find it to be much less work. Adding a zip tie and cutting it off after doesn't take much time. But the labor and pain it saves me is worth it. I plan to make a guide here the next time I do a cable.


Please do!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I can by 300 zip ties for $1 at local dollar stores. Since I started to use them no more hand cramping, cuts, or sore finger tips from running my fingers down the sleeve.


That seems really cheap, I don't think I can find a deal like that, I actually don't damage my fingers from sleeving, just melting it. Must be the calluses.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> It may waste the masking tape and tissue paper but when it comes to Stretch and Melt time this contraption is what I depend on. A sawn off bit of old telescopic aerial gets the used up heatshrink off easily and stops any burning around the insulation clamp.


I don't get it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Bump, anyone?


Fan cables are what, 24AWG? 22AWG would be perfectly fine.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Fan cables are what, 24AWG? 22AWG would be perfectly fine.


Cool thanks, just wasnt sure when I got them stripped


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> I don't get it.


In the standard heatshrinkless method you have melted the sleeve onto the first pin but now you have to squeeze the slack out of the sleeve until it reaches exactly where you need it over the wire clamp on the second pin and hold it there by pinching with your fingers - not so far away from the pin that you are leaving slack in the sleeve but not so close as to burn yourself but also securely enough to hold it exactly there throughout the burn - it's Self Inflicted Wound Time!

My contraption allows me to hold the sleeve in position without having to grip the wire as well.

Winding the masking tape, bulked out with paper towel or tissue paper, around the other end of the wire just above the first pin allows me to jam that end of the wire in the jaws of the contraption not only without straining the first pin in any way but also without leaving any slack at that end of the wire - the masking tape stops the bulking material from slipping on the sleeve and jamming the pin in the jaws.

The bit of telescopic aerial - I slit it with a hacksaw so that it can be opened and clamped on the wire - holds the heatshrink in position over the wire clamp but covers the insulation clamp. When the melt is complete you transfer your grip to the aerial and slip it over the pin with the used up heatshrink - making sure it is long enough to protect your fingers as it slips over the lugs.

Of course, this method has its own hazards, such as making sure you don't smear melted plastic into the wrong parts of the pin, and you could probably do the same thing with a vice, but this provides me with a system that presents the same problems the same way every time and so gives me the best chance of regularly overcoming them.


----------



## WiSK

Great insight into how other sleevers approach things








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> ... now you have to squeeze the slack out of the sleeve until it reaches exactly where you need it over the wire clamp on the second pin and hold it there by pinching with your fingers - not so far away from the pin that you are leaving slack in the sleeve but not so close as to burn yourself but also securely enough to hold it exactly there throughout the burn - it's Self Inflicted Wound Time!


I actually like having my fingers in the danger zone. Because I judge whether the sleeve is melted by how hot the wire feels under my thumb.


----------



## iBored

I use a pair of needle nose pliers to hold the sleeve after stretching. No finger cramping for me.


----------



## Scarlet-Tech

I have added UNNAMED to my signature line. I have a few things I am still waiting on, like the Aquearo, the Case, Motherboard, and a few other things (Both PSUs and Cables from EVGA). I ordered the pre-made cables that EVGA offers, but I am not sure I want to permanently utilize them, as they will have the packaging bends in them.

Is there a way to remove the packaging bends, and should I look into trimming the cables down to fit the case better? I did not do a great job sleeving the cables I currently have, as the cuts were too short sometimes, but I would be willing to try again, as I want this build to be as good as I can possibly make it.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

OK a bit of a necro reply to these posts, but might as well add my 2 cents and finally post in this thread to subscribe to it instead of what I have been doing catching up a week or more's posts at a time ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Has anyone tired one of these ATX pin removal tools? Looks very durable.
> 
> http://stores.ebay.com/Modpcuk/Tools-/_i.html?_fsub=7026635011&_sid=1007185971&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322


I have that tool and works rather well, except it's a bit small so, for example, on really tight fitting connectors like with my Corsair PSUs, it worked but was more tiring to use than the genuine molex or TE tools or the one I have from FCPU, all of which work really well also and I can get a better grip on them.

For most connectors though, the Shakmods tool works great. It's quite a bit stronger / stiffer feeling than any of the other ATX tools I have and that usually works a bit to its advantage. If I just a have a few pins to remove it's been pretty much my go to lately, but really all of the ATX tools I have pictured below (so you can see what I mean by how much smaller it is. The shakmods one has turquoise? heatshrink on it) work excellent imho with the exception of *the two furthest on the right. They are both junk that should be avoided at any cost*.



- - - - - - - - -
- - - - - - - - -
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Question, how do you cut out the damn fan crimps? do you need a straight edge cutter or something
> 
> Sorry for the derpy question
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have pics?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Do now lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry potato photo. Need a macro lens lol
> 
> 
> 
> Think I'm gonna need to buy different ones, these ones are a pain, need to crimp, cut and file them and then one out of 3 dont go in or come out anyway
Click to expand...

FWIW I went through the exact same thing as you did here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1327420/pc-crimping-part-numbers/80_40#post_21897493

Unlike you though, I gave up trying to use them only after completely dulling/ruining no less than three sets of flush cutters just trying to snip them apart. One set was really cheap, one was a previously cherished pair I got from Lutro0 that I used to only use to snip sleeving, and lastly I dulled a set of Knipex flush cutters I bought specifically to help me deal with those terminals. I had quite a few custom fan splitter cables to make up at the time and even my nicest flush cutter didn't like having to cut more than 25-30 or so of those terminals before they wouldn't cut worth a darn any more. I wound up ordering a 150 or so of the terminals from FCPU just so I could finish what I had started working on and later on I got several hundred of them from ModDIY, all of which were the easy-to-use wiggle off variety. I chucked all those old terminals right in the garbage where they belonged in the first place imho. Lesson learned.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> OK a bit of a necro reply to these posts, but might as well add my 2 cents and finally post in this thread to subscribe to it instead of what I have been doing catching up a week or more's posts at a time ...
> I have that tool and works rather well, except it's a bit small so, for example, on really tight fitting connectors like with my Corsair PSUs, it worked but was more tiring to use than the genuine molex or TE tools or the one I have from FCPU, all of which work really well also and I can get a better grip on them. For most connectors though, the Shakmods tool works great. It's quite a bit stronger / stiffer feeling than any of the other ATX tools I have and that usually works a bit to its advantage. If I just a have a few pins to remove it's been pretty much my go to lately, but really all of the ATX tools I have pictured below so you can see what I mean by how much smaller it is work excellent imho (the shakmods one has turquoise? heatshrink on it) with the exception of the two furthest on the right. They are both junk that *should be avoided at any cost*.


Thanks!

I actually have the Sunbeamtech (the one on the right came as a set of 4 tools) and have removed 100's of pins with it...but yeah...the metal is really too soft and it finally broke after being bent a few too many times.

In the end, I went with this one...


----------



## OffTheChart

haha, yeah also HAD that Sunbeamtech in the kit, but that has long been broken









will be trying a Shakmodz or one from FCPU once our postal gets sorted and importing something won't take ages to arrive









yesterday I quickly roughed out one of those 'mini-extensions' which will be using on someones AX860i and then I will be making myself one for my RM1000

nice thing is they have same pin-outs... also chose this route cause it gives you that flexibility of changing your cables or just going with standard extensions (Bitfenix)

also busy with changing a set of orange Bitfenix extensions (30cm) to black and red for the AX860i guy


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Does the paracord sleeving tool work on molex power connectors or only ATX?


----------



## OffTheChart

female pin, it goes just over the top section of the pin... before it even gets to the crimp part where the wire gets crimped.

male pin, it seems to work


----------



## Angrychair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I actually have the Sunbeamtech (the one on the right came as a set of 4 tools) and have removed 100's of pins with it...but yeah...the metal is really too soft and it finally broke after being bent a few too many times.
> 
> In the end, I went with this one...


that's almost identical to what I have, and I can't get a single pin to pop


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> that's almost identical to what I have, and I can't get a single pin to pop


It's been working flawlessly for me...so far.
Are you sure you're inserting the tool correctly?


----------



## Angrychair

well I have looked at various sleeving guides, I just can't get the pins to push in on my ax1200 cables. they are already factory sleeved white, but I wanted to remove a few extra leads off a 4+4 cpu power lead.


----------



## OffTheChart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrychair*
> 
> well I have looked at various sleeving guides, I just can't get the pins to push in on my ax1200 cables. they are already factory sleeved white, but I wanted to remove a few extra leads off a 4+4 cpu power lead.


see if you can use 4, 2 on each side, standard staples and use those (1 per side also works, just bit more tricky to hold)

the Corsair sleeved kit, for reference, is a tough one to de-pin.

you really need to pull quite a bit to get it out, but it makes it bit more difficult, because you never know if it is the toughness not coming out, or actually the removal tool not being in right.


----------



## Phantatsy

Make sure to push the pins in first before inserting the tool, too! That always helps me.


----------



## Himo5

It also helps not to think in terms of pushing and shoving.

Compared to you these are tiny little bits of metal being moved fractions of an inch.

You've got to manouevre the tips of two prongs into two slots of almost the same size. If you are a few thousandths of an inch out of position they won't go in the slots.

If you have a male connector you can look down the business end of you can actually see where the two slots are in relation to the pin and with female connectors it pays to study a pin in detail to look at the scale of what you are aiming for but can't see.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I'm talking about this tool: 

I can't fit molex power connectors, just the ATX into it?


----------



## OffTheChart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> I'm talking about this tool:
> 
> I can't fit molex power connectors, just the ATX into it?


knew which tool you meant

I just tried a quick crimp and the male still fits

any1 else different results?


----------



## DRT-Maverick

What about the female end?

What do you think of this color scheme? This is the color paracord I have.


----------



## OffTheChart

female goes in to an extent, but the tool doesn't cover either of the crimped parts

I think it is both those bumps on the pin and the little 'lip' that the tool has on the inside, that is preventing it from going further

the male is obviously smaller because it goes into the female, so it just makes it past that 'lip'


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> What do you think of this color scheme?


Maybe the 24 pin not symmetrical, perhaps blue-red-red-grey- and the rest blue.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

That's brown though, and it matches the noctua fan brown, so I don't want it dominant.


----------



## OffTheChart

so so sad










currently, as it stands, I will either never or just indefinitely, get my parcel from Lutro0









our postal service is undergoing major issues and thus, post has basically come to a halt

only way to now order something, and hope to get it, is to use something such as Fedex or DHL (so that they can courier the parcel door-to-door), which just adds more sadness

oh well


----------



## DRT-Maverick

You in South Africa?


----------



## OffTheChart

yep









also wanted to go buy some more paracord, but don't have all the colors and now because of the postal thing, even their import is put on hold


----------



## DRT-Maverick

My DEMCIfilters are still stuck at the international distribution hub. I asked them to send it via Fedex too but they'd already given it to the crappy SAPO. Wonder if I'll ever see them.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> My DEMCIfilters are still stuck at the international distribution hub. I asked them to send it via Fedex too but they'd already given it to the crappy SAPO. Wonder if I'll ever see them.


Maybe ask them if you can reorder again and and have them send it via FedEx and then refuse the other order when it arrives? The international post is such a nightmare.
I just received my package from DEMCIfilters via FedEx in 3 days.


----------



## jthm4goth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> yep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also wanted to go buy some more paracord, but don't have all the colors and now because of the postal thing, even their import is put on hold


Thats horrible. When I ship international I always use fedex now. They give me a sweet 41% discount on all my international shipments


----------



## OffTheChart

yep, it is

Fedex or DHL would be only way to go now, but for us, here is an example of how it impacts:

Usually when/if I import, it's something I can wait for which means cheapest trackable postage.

Now, something that usually would have been like $8, is now going to be like $30. So yeah









But anyways...

So, finished swapping a bitfenix orange to black/red and see now that it would have looked a lot better if I went and gave it that 'curve'

When it was just orange, you could see that the cables don't sit nicely, but now with the duo, it is just a bit more noticeable

and ofc this is where the combs that I ordered







, would have been nice

Will maybe just do 1 or 2 stitches on the part that would directly be visible


----------



## jthm4goth

I'm sorry that really sucks.

I order all my supplies for my store from china and I have them ship dhl everytime only ones that will do tracking for me


----------



## Himo5

As promised some time ago, Telios sleeving in ATX colors





with invisible internal lacing







courtesy 0.3mm nylon beading wire.


----------



## Archer206

That looks really nice! How did you stitch that?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> As promised some time ago, Telios sleeving in ATX colors


haha - nice one


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archer206*
> 
> That looks really nice! How did you stitch that?


I was afraid someone was going to ask me that, so here goes>

After finalising the plan



most of the work went into cutting and training the wires, but when that was all finally done I was able to tape up the two layers and tack them in place with Polymorph:



It was very important for the XY plane stitching to make sure all the cables were tacked at the same level so that the needle went through all the sleeves but missed the wires.



Apart from that it was just a case of pushing the needle through with the vicegrip, rethreading the nylon wire and pulling it through. The object was to only stitch the straight parts and leave the bends to be governed by the cutting and training.



For the Z plane stitching I needed to make sure the stitches on one wire married up with the one it was paired with on the other side of the board, so I figured out a color coding scheme.



Then it was just a matter of cutting duplicate strips of color code and taping it all down. I reckoned it would be enough to pin the two outer wires and one in the centre.



Once I'd started it soon became a needle bending excersize, rather than a sewing bee, until I finally settled on the best curve for the job. (Needle bending is done by holding one between the jaws of a pair of radio pliers and then holding a lighter under it until it starts to bend. The trick is to thread the needle first so it doesn't go flying off whenever - not if ever - it slips out.)



Eventually I had the inevitable cats cradle representing the three untightened Z-plane stitches.



At this point the instructions stop, since I haven't yet worked out how I got from there to this!



I'm just happy to have done so!


----------



## Archer206

That's some awesome work, and a very nice guide thanks


----------



## Pheozero

Wow. That is ridiculously awesome.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> At this point the instructions stop, since I haven't yet worked out how I got from there to this!


+rep A great idea


----------



## OffTheChart

that there is some epic dedication

wd


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Nice, how is this working out?


----------



## Savage Shadows

Here's a question for you guys. Looked back a few pages but didn't catch anything. Since MDPC is down for now, what's the next best thing at this time? Paracord? This is my first sleeving job and I don't want to finish it just to wish I had gone with a different material. I don't want any shiny, plastic looking material, just matte like fabric. But my only worry with paracord is that it seems pretty thick. And last, what about shrink tubing? If not MDPC, what's your preferred outlet?
Thanks in advanced!


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Savage Shadows*
> 
> Here's a question for you guys. Looked back a few pages but didn't catch anything. Since MDPC is down for now, what's the next best thing at this time? Paracord? This is my first sleeving job and I don't want to finish it just to wish I had gone with a different material. I don't want any shiny, plastic looking material, just matte like fabric. But my only worry with paracord is that it seems pretty thick. And last, what about shrink tubing? If not MDPC, what's your preferred outlet?
> Thanks in advanced!


I use Lutro0 Customs for all my sleeving/paracord/heatshrink.

You can find it available on ModBunker
(Minus the paracord, that is not yet available on there)


----------



## DRT-Maverick

If you're going for specific colors of paracord that Lutro0 doesn't have, Paracord Galaxy has treated me well, they are fast at shipping and reasonably priced, and their paracord has a good quality feel to it, not all frizzly or anything either.

There are a few decent large paracord vendors on the net.


----------



## iBored

Hi, how do I remove the pins from a male fan header?


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Hi, how do I remove the pins from a male fan header?


All you need is a paper clip!
I'll leave this link here for you to go over.


----------



## sdmf74

Im sure this has been asked many times b4 but *where can I find a really good quality pin removal tool?* I have EVGA psu.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Im sure this has been asked many times b4 but *where can I find a really good quality pin removal tool?* I have EVGA psu.


40 posts back:
Here

I personally used the one from MDPC witch comes with personalized text (I did not know that or notice until I had used it for half an hour lol)


I used it on a Corsair PSU witch is considdered on of the hardest PSUs to get the pins out of, and I got all pins out with it!
What a great tool!
but then again.. I have nothing to compare with :S


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Im sure this has been asked many times b4 but *where can I find a really good quality pin removal tool?* I have EVGA psu.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> How I depin a connector w/ staples. The staples are heavy duty ones that I have filed down. They insert very easily and I've never broken them after hundreds of depins.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-63-1.jpg.html
> 
> Then I insert a 1.5mm hex wrench in the front and push gently on the pin.
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-62-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-61-1.jpg.html


I have still never broken a single pair of staples.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Im sure this has been asked many times b4 but *where can I find a really good quality pin removal tool?* I have EVGA psu.


There is many tools and or methods out there.

I would stay away from sleeving tool packs and or really cheap ones as you really do buy what you get.

Staples work for some people (i know many do)

The original Molex tool is highly suggested

and I have created my own version which has only gotten great reviews as well @ here: http://modbunker.com/shop/cable-sleeving/molex-extractor/


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> There is many tools and or methods out there.
> 
> I would stay away from sleeving tool packs and or really cheap ones as you really do buy what you get.
> 
> Staples work for some people (i know many do)
> 
> The original Molex tool is highly suggested
> 
> and I have created my own version which has only gotten great reviews as well @ here: http://modbunker.com/shop/cable-sleeving/molex-extractor/


tHANX GUYS Reps comin. Lutro yours is actually one that I was considering. I also was looking at this one @ frozencpu it has great reviews but is very expensive, $27 w/ the cheapest shipping and after discount. I usually buy from PPCS cause frozen
charges more for everything. Im sorry but $almost 30 bucks is ridiculous.
Has anyone used the Dual Head ATX & Auxiliary Molex Removal Tool from PPCS? its $15 Shipped

Both PPC's & Frozencpu have removed their OCN promo codes, they no longer work whats up with that?
@ frozencpu you can still use PCAPEX & XTREME codes though


----------



## DRT-Maverick

How exactly do I use a multimeter to test my PSU's stock power cables to draw up a wiring diagram?


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> tHANX GUYS Reps comin. Lutro yours is actually one that I was considering. I also was looking at this one @ frozencpu it has great reviews but is very expensive, $27 w/ the cheapest shipping and after discount. I usually buy from PPCS cause frozen
> charges more for everything. Im sorry but $almost 30 bucks is ridiculous.
> Has anyone used the Dual Head ATX & Auxiliary Molex Removal Tool from PPCS? its $15 Shipped
> 
> Both PPC's & Frozencpu have removed their OCN promo codes, they no longer work whats up with that?
> @ frozencpu you can still use PCAPEX & XTREME codes though


I would recommend Lutro0's ATX removal tool as that is what I have been using since I started sleeving. Works like a charm


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> I would recommend Lutro0's ATX removal tool as that is what I have been using since I started sleeving. Works like a charm


Yeah im goin that route, looks like the best quality tool at a reasonable price thanx

Hey Lutro any idea when you might be getting more of the custom Asus branded Power Supply Cover's in stock? That would look sweet in my build, matches my color scheme perfectly.
Also I could use some longer m3 screws in black oxide


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> How exactly do I use a multimeter to test my PSU's stock power cables to draw up a wiring diagram?


I simply just test each wire for continuity (most good meters have a beep function, if not you can set it to ohms)

Hold your probe on one wire...
then with the other probe, touch each wire from the other end of the cable...
when you find the corresponding wire on he oppisite end, the meter will either beep or give an ohm reading depending on the function of your meter.
Then use a chart to number them accordingly.


----------



## OffTheChart

which crimper would work with the pins from a VGA power connector?

this: http://www.moddiy.com/product_images/uploaded_images/jh.jpg

the one on the right


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> which crimper would work with the pins from a VGA power connector?
> 
> this: http://www.moddiy.com/product_images/uploaded_images/jh.jpg
> 
> the one on the right


Looks to be these pins?
http://www.moddiy.com/products/Graphics-Card-VGA-Socket-Mini-PH-Connector-Pins-(Female).html

I'm more than confident that the Lutro0 Customs crimper would work for those. But you could always verify that with him.
I would also recommend it for any crimps you might need. Perfect crimps every time.

http://modbunker.com/shop/cable-sleeving/lc-ratchet-crimper/


----------



## sdmf74

This one looks super strong.... To bad its in the UK


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> which crimper would work with the pins from a VGA power connector?
> 
> this: http://www.moddiy.com/product_images/uploaded_images/jh.jpg
> 
> the one on the right


I use this one. Works well for me. http://www.performance-pcs.com/deluxe-molex-hand-crimp-tool.html
Use the smller die for mini VGA and fan pins.


----------



## OffTheChart

ah, yeah should have linked the pins hey









I have the MDPC version so will give that a try

now stupid question, but: on the crimper it says the front is for 24-30AWG and back is 18-22AWG

now with those pins being so tiny, if I wanted to use 22AWG, would I still use the back?

hehe, just as I ask, someone already replies


----------



## sdmf74

Placing an order from Lutroo right now, I wonder is there any way to make the LC Stealth Cable Combs any smaller for thinner diameter sleeved cables???


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Placing an order from Lutroo right now, I wonder is there any way to make the LC Stealth Cable Combs any smaller for thinner diameter sleeved cables???


I don't think so, but the last time I talked to Mike (Lutro0) he said he was working on a few new things with ModBunker so you never know what they might have in the future. Maybe that would be something to bring up with him.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> which crimper would work with the pins from a VGA power connector?
> 
> this: http://www.moddiy.com/product_images/uploaded_images/jh.jpg
> 
> the one on the right


Those pins are far too small for a crimper designed for ATX pins.



I use fine needle nosed pliers, and it's very fiddly so practice first.

Squeeze both wings together a bit to hold the wire.
Then fold the wings over, one at a time.
Then put just the tip of the pliers over both wings and press very very hard to make the crimp.
Order extra pins in case you mess up.


----------



## Himo5

ModDiy also do a crimper for PH Dupont pins.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Sleeved my first set of cables! Not completely finished putting them together, but all the wires are sleeved and crimped. All I have to do now is get a multi-meter to plug the pins into the PSU-side connector.


----------



## OffTheChart

some nice colors

what PSU you got?

isn't there a diagram for it already?


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Thanks! I'm doing a primarily grey (hardware) build, along with blue(aqua marine blue like the cables) coolant, white lighting (Not much, I don't like lighting, but I'll be able to turn it on and off), and the brown noctua fans that fill the case needed something to match with it. I think the aqua blue balances out the brown well.









I Might spray the interior of the case gun-metal gray with plastidip.... Not sure though.

It has the diagram for the motherboard cables, but the PCI-E cables don't have a diagram. I took apart a single VGA cable from the manufacturer and they criss-cross quite a bit.

EVGA SuperNova 1000 P2 is the PSU.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> tHANX GUYS Reps comin. Lutro yours is actually one that I was considering. I also was looking at this one @ frozencpu it has great reviews but is very expensive, $27 w/ the cheapest shipping and after discount. I usually buy from PPCS cause frozen
> charges more for everything. Im sorry but $almost 30 bucks is ridiculous.
> Has anyone used the Dual Head ATX & Auxiliary Molex Removal Tool from PPCS? its $15 Shipped
> 
> Both PPC's & Frozencpu have removed their OCN promo codes, they no longer work whats up with that?
> @ frozencpu you can still use PCAPEX & XTREME codes though


You will be happy with our extractor. I took the little flaws in the original molex extractor and hand make all of ours at a cheaper price.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> I would recommend Lutro0's ATX removal tool as that is what I have been using since I started sleeving. Works like a charm


Thanks for the kind words!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Yeah im goin that route, looks like the best quality tool at a reasonable price thanx
> 
> Hey Lutro any idea when you might be getting more of the custom Asus branded Power Supply Cover's in stock? That would look sweet in my build, matches my color scheme perfectly.
> Also I could use some longer m3 screws in black oxide


Yes we are re working our lasering schedules so we can start offering those as we have a huge pre-order for them. =)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> I simply just test each wire for continuity (most good meters have a beep function, if not you can set it to ohms)
> 
> Hold your probe on one wire...
> then with the other probe, touch each wire from the other end of the cable...
> when you find the corresponding wire on he oppisite end, the meter will either beep or give an ohm reading depending on the function of your meter.
> Then use a chart to number them accordingly.


That is it in a short answer, you can also get a cheap PSU tester which we will list here shortly. But we sell the mutli meter as well for those that know what they are doing. Both are great tools!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Looks to be these pins?
> http://www.moddiy.com/products/Graphics-Card-VGA-Socket-Mini-PH-Connector-Pins-(Female).html
> 
> I'm more than confident that the Lutro0 Customs crimper would work for those. But you could always verify that with him.
> I would also recommend it for any crimps you might need. Perfect crimps every time.
> 
> http://modbunker.com/shop/cable-sleeving/lc-ratchet-crimper/


I do mill mine a smaller portion to accept even duponts so if the size is close then yes they will, however I have not tested those myself.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> This one looks super strong.... To bad its in the UK


Honestly the sides look a little thick for what the idea size should be - but I am just looking at a pic. The prongs need to be perfect for use for extracting other wise its a pain.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Placing an order from Lutroo right now, I wonder is there any way to make the LC Stealth Cable Combs any smaller for thinner diameter sleeved cables???


Actually we have explored this and may offer a smaller size on custom orders for those that need them!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> I don't think so, but the last time I talked to Mike (Lutro0) he said he was working on a few new things with ModBunker so you never know what they might have in the future. Maybe that would be something to bring up with him.


Absolutely - we have a ton of stuff in order - the biggest thing right now is a super fast turn around in orders and correct orders. This is what I always wanted to offer. But we still need to list about 40 percent of LC stock. It has been a huge change in my life and the shops but I believe its been one for the better.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Thanks! I'm doing a primarily grey (hardware) build, along with blue(aqua marine blue like the cables) coolant, white lighting (Not much, I don't like lighting, but I'll be able to turn it on and off), and the brown noctua fans that fill the case needed something to match with it. I think the aqua blue balances out the brown well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I Might spray the interior of the case gun-metal gray with plastidip.... Not sure though.
> 
> It has the diagram for the motherboard cables, but the PCI-E cables don't have a diagram. I took apart a single VGA cable from the manufacturer and they criss-cross quite a bit.
> 
> EVGA SuperNova 1000 P2 is the PSU.


You will like plastidip its a great product thats easy to use. Enjoy!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I do mill mine a smaller portion to accept even duponts so if the size is close then yes they will, however I have not tested those myself.


It's not about the milling, the pins for 2mm duponts are just too short for your crimper.

Sorry if my photo wasn't clear, but please look again (I made it bigger): the wire is cut off from the head and part of the pin is crushed. You need the crimper that Himo5 linked, or just use needle nosed pliers.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Hope it works for fans, I've got a ton of fan pins I will have to do soon.

What color scheme looks best for the 24pin?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Hope it works for fans, I've got a ton of fan pins I will have to do soon.


Of course it (Lutro0 crimper) works for fan pins









I was only talking about the small 2mm pitch pins which are an entirely different kettle of fish than normal fan pins.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Phew! Good to know! I do have a question about fans though, can you squeeze all 3 fan-wires (presuming they're around what 24gauge?) through 550 paracord?


----------



## OffTheChart

yes you can

I actually just did, but my wires is still stuck to each other and it made it nice and tight

but with loose wires, being in a 'triangle' shape, should do just fine

well, aside from the pin being too short... they are freakin' tiny









mission just holding the little pin inside the crimper

@Maverick between #2 and #3... don't want the blue to be over powering

think I will just save up some and buy both the SN-28B and the other one from MODDIY

luckily it seems there is some life in my package from Lutro0, so hopefully I can try my new die out too


----------



## Savage Shadows

DRT-Maverick, I like the third one. I think that having the gray on the outsides and middle, which as I understand is your primary color here, reinforces the idea that it is the primary color. The second one is okay, but I do feel like the blue takes over as the primary color in that one. Though that's just my opinion of course. Also, don't be afraid to randomize the colors, some awesome builds I've seen didn't have patterned sleeving.

On another note, have you thought about reducing the amount of brown? Your primary and secondary are gray and blue, but you stated the brown is just to match your Noctua fans. Since that's just an accent, maybe reducing the amount of brown would keep it from competing with the gray or blue. For example, the 24-pin could go Gr-Br-Bl-Bl-Gr-Gr-Gr-Gr-Bl-Bl-Br-Gr, resulting in a 3:2:1 ratio of Gray, Blue, and Brown, respectively. Almost like a visual hierarchy of color.


----------



## jthm4goth

Look whose cables made it to mayhems Facebook


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Actually we have explored this and may offer a smaller size on custom orders for those that need them!


Please let us know if/when you offer smaller cable combs? I am still trying to figure a way to manage my EVGA cable set, they are MUCH thinner diameter sleeved wires than standard paracord etc.

I may just buy new cables altogether but for now if you can produce some that fit on the EVGA cables that would be great, thanx!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It's not about the milling, the pins for 2mm duponts are just too short for your crimper.
> 
> Sorry if my photo wasn't clear, but please look again (I made it bigger): the wire is cut off from the head and part of the pin is crushed. You need the crimper that Himo5 linked, or just use needle nosed pliers.


Oh yea I see what you mean - I dont think I have messed with the 2mm dupont ones but it does do the usb and other dupont headers just fine.

WIsk do you mind sending me some links to those terminals and such - let me see what I can find out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmf74*
> 
> Please let us know if/when you offer smaller cable combs? I am still trying to figure a way to manage my EVGA cable set, they are MUCH thinner diameter sleeved wires than standard paracord etc.
> 
> I may just buy new cables altogether but for now if you can produce some that fit on the EVGA cables that would be great, thanx!


Totally, like I said just contact modbunker and we can push out special orders for smaller fitting ones.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> WIsk do you mind sending me some links to those terminals and such - let me see what I can find out.


I once researched what the actual manufacturer / part number was, but lost that info now.

I bought a bunch from Eric http://www.moddiy.com/products/Graphics-Card-VGA-Socket-Mini-PH-Connector-Pins-(Female).html and the plugs in various sizes http://www.moddiy.com/products/Graphics-Card-VGA-Socket-Mini-Female-PH-Connector-%282.0mm%29.html

Their main use is GPU fans. But also PSU fans, especially Enhance OEM, use the 2-pin ones.


----------



## OffTheChart

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0500118100_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml ?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0500118100_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml ?


Could be


----------



## Himo5

I always go first to the JST Catalog for these types of connector, like stuff you find in front panels, and it's amazing how often the next best port of call, once you have a catalog description, turns out to be Ebay.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Savage Shadows*
> 
> DRT-Maverick, I like the third one. I think that having the gray on the outsides and middle, which as I understand is your primary color here, reinforces the idea that it is the primary color. The second one is okay, but I do feel like the blue takes over as the primary color in that one. Though that's just my opinion of course. Also, don't be afraid to randomize the colors, some awesome builds I've seen didn't have patterned sleeving.
> 
> On another note, have you thought about reducing the amount of brown? Your primary and secondary are gray and blue, but you stated the brown is just to match your Noctua fans. Since that's just an accent, maybe reducing the amount of brown would keep it from competing with the gray or blue. For example, the 24-pin could go Gr-Br-Bl-Bl-Gr-Gr-Gr-Gr-Bl-Bl-Br-Gr, resulting in a 3:2:1 ratio of Gray, Blue, and Brown, respectively. Almost like a visual hierarchy of color.


Actually I wanted there to be more blue popping in the wires than grey, since grey and brown are going to be the over-powering colors haha. Only blue in the case will be the sleeving and the coolant. The mobo and PCB are black/grey(nickel) and I'm doing all nickel plated waterblocks. The brown matches the Noctua.

Blues are honestly my favorite color, I just didn't want to make a blue build or anything, I wanted blue accents and such.


----------



## Gridsquares

Lutro0,

Where do you get that 16awg wire at? I went to amazon and got 100 ft spool for like 14 bucks from a company called "Coleman". Is that pretty close to the stuff you use?


----------



## jthm4goth

I wanna do a crazy color combo what to do


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jthm4goth*
> 
> I wanna do a crazy color combo what to do


Hmm what did you have in mind? I always liked grey and purple.


----------



## jthm4goth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> Hmm what did you have in mind? I always liked grey and purple.


Hmm Gray and purple could be fun maybe throw in a couple green


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gridsquares*
> 
> Lutro0,
> 
> Where do you get that 16awg wire at? I went to amazon and got 100 ft spool for like 14 bucks from a company called "Coleman". Is that pretty close to the stuff you use?


I used to use the coleman 16awg - but its a little thicker then I would have liked it. But I always did like the fuller look of the coleman cable.

Our cable we stock we get from a wire distributor. If you can find wire with a diameter of around 2mm or close it should work out great.


----------



## vilius572

Hello guys! Could somebody tell me what that website called where you can design your own sleeved cables?


----------



## CasP3r

Do you mean this one?

http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasP3r*
> 
> Do you mean this one?
> 
> http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/


Yes, thank you!


----------



## vilius572

How is this guys? http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/?p=545bf31818093 Do you have any other sugestions for cables for rig in my avatar?


----------



## Archer206

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> How is this guys? http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/?p=545bf31818093 Do you have any other sugestions for cables for rig in my avatar?


Should look great, just did a set of cables for someone in that exact same pattern! Looks spot on


----------



## mrtbahgs

I have only spent a tiny bit of time reading up on sleeving and wanted to ask one semi-generic question before I decide if I research it full on. Hopefully this is a decent thread to ask.

I am planning a build inside of a custom built end table (PC in the top drawer) that will likely have a 1SQFT window on the top surface. I think sleeving would be a perfect addition for this project, but wanted to know if it would be best to do true custom made lengths to fit the layout perfectly or would it be fine/easier/better to just sleeve the standard cables and hide any extra length?

Keep in mind this is my first time trying sleeving so it wont be as simple to accomplish which is shying me away from perfect length cables since its riskier and has less room for safety.
Also, the actual project wont be made any immediate time soon, but if I went with standard length cables I could do the sleeving at any time and have it ready to go.
Basically I am leaning towards just the standard length cables for a few reasons, but for all the time and effort involved I don't want to dislike the outcome if I cant neatly hide all of the excess length (possibly I can 100%) and wish I went with exact custom lengths.

This will help me decide when to read up further and look into tools/materials/PSUs/etc, so...
What do you recommend?


----------



## OffTheChart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I have only spent a tiny bit of time reading up on sleeving and wanted to ask one semi-generic question before I decide if I research it full on. Hopefully this is a decent thread to ask.
> 
> I am planning a build inside of a custom built end table (PC in the top drawer) that will likely have a 1SQFT window on the top surface. I think sleeving would be a perfect addition for this project, but wanted to know if it would be best to do true custom made lengths to fit the layout perfectly or would it be fine/easier/better to just sleeve the standard cables and hide any extra length?
> 
> Keep in mind this is my first time trying sleeving so it wont be as simple to accomplish which is shying me away from perfect length cables since its riskier and has less room for safety.
> Also, the actual project wont be made any immediate time soon, but if I went with standard length cables I could do the sleeving at any time and have it ready to go.
> Basically I am leaning towards just the standard length cables for a few reasons, but for all the time and effort involved I don't want to dislike the outcome if I cant neatly hide all of the excess length (possibly I can 100%) and wish I went with exact custom lengths.
> 
> This will help me decide when to read up further and look into tools/materials/PSUs/etc, so...
> What do you recommend?


my personal opinion would be: stick with the original full length cables, which in a desk build could be much easier to hide the bulk, and from there, rather just do extensions for the visible parts

this way, you not only have the original cables stock (for resale), but working with extensions as a first time is much less work for you to get used to it


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> my personal opinion would be: stick with the original full length cables, which in a desk build could be much easier to hide the bulk, and from there, rather just do extensions for the visible parts
> 
> this way, you not only have the original cables stock (for resale), but working with extensions as a first time is much less work for you to get used to it


Hmm alright I think I follow you and like the idea, thanks so much.

To make sure I am on the same page, the extensions would be 100% built from scratch so I would purchase wire, pins, and empty plastic connectors in addition to the typical sleeving supplies?
This would then also make it so I don't have to bother with awkward pinouts or double wires etc so again making it easier for me as I am new to it.

With my current design for the end table I could also technically lean towards any super on-sale PSU even if it isn't fully modular and have unused connectors bundled and hidden, so that is a plus to your idea as well.


----------



## OffTheChart

yep, the extensions would be only ones being done from scratch and yep, 1-1 pin-out from the result

also saves on supplies like sleeving and wire in regards to length


----------



## jfry94

hi guys its been a while since i posted on here. I'm planning a desk build, and i want to put the psu on the opposite end to the rest of the computer but issue is the length I need the cables to be around the 2 meter mark, would having cables this long cause any issues with high end power hungry components?( 5930k and quad gpu's)


----------



## jthm4goth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfry94*
> 
> hi guys its been a while since i posted on here. I'm planning a desk build, and i want to put the psu on the opposite end to the rest of the computer but issue is the length I need the cables to be around the 2 meter mark, would having cables this long cause any issues with high end power hungry components?( 5930k and quad gpu's)


no That is what I'm doing. Use 16awg


----------



## mrtbahgs

Just playing around a bit, I came up with 3 various designs of a 2 color option. I figured 2 colors would be a good way to start and also tie in better to my current build plans, but everything may change colorwise since I am still far from actual purchasing and building of the PC let alone sleeving. The end table is currently planned to be painted white and I would try for mostly black components and probably use a motherboard tray in the drawer and paint it black as well.

Hopefully these links work for others that may be interested, here are my 3 ideas in order of preference at this time:
Option 1
Option 2
Option 3

This weekend I will do a lot more reading up on the sleeving guides and start looking at tools to buy.


----------



## morencyam

I like option 2


----------



## Wolfsbora

Option 1 is too busy. Option 3 isn't bad but I'm with morencyam and going with option 2 as well.


----------



## lowfat

I prefer non symmetrical cables personally.


----------



## lowfat

It is so much easier to do this time w/ a cable comb to keep it straight while training.


----------



## Buehlar

Gorgeous photography!


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Got a couple of questions

Does anyone know what connectors these are and what crimps they use?




Also how does one go about opening one of these & where to get crimps for it



Got an NZXT lighting kit and need to extend the light cable and the power cable









Thanks


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Got a couple of questions


The first one I'm not sure about the original manufacturer, but you can easily buy them online. Try searching XH-2P 2.54mm pitch

The second one is just a housing variation on the Molex 8981, it can use the standard fat pins. Use a flat head screwdriver to pop it open.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> The first one I'm not sure about the original manufacturer, but you can easily buy them online. Try searching XH-2P 2.54mm pitch
> 
> The second one is just a housing variation on the Molex 8981, it can use the standard fat pins. Use a flat head screwdriver to pop it open.


Thanks









The first one, does anyone know the kind of crimps it uses? (would be less of a hassle to buy the crimps seeing I need to extend the cable anyway

Would be nice if they used some kind of standard connection thats easy to find


----------



## Klerk

Been trying to make some 3d renders of paracord sleeves to have a preview on what colors I will use on my build. I think I got the material pretty similar to the real ones, I just need to make it look from a distance.


----------



## OffTheChart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klerk*
> 
> Been trying to make some 3d renders of paracord sleeves to have a preview on what colors I will use on my build. I think I got the material pretty similar to the real ones, I just need to make it look from a distance.


DAYUM!!!

if it wasn't for the connector, I would have almost said that was real... nice job


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first one, does anyone know the kind of crimps it uses? (would be less of a hassle to buy the crimps seeing I need to extend the cable anyway
> 
> Would be nice if they used some kind of standard connection thats easy to find


It is a standard connection. There are probably millions of these used in products made in Chinese factories every year.

It's just that it's not something that's generally bought by end-consumers, as a loose item.

People who crimp their own cables are niche users, usually enthusiasts from hobbies like automotive, audio, electronic circuits, scale models like car, boat, plane, chopper etc.

Anyway, as I suggested before if you search "XH-2P 2.54mm" on Ebay then you will find what you need. I see for example one selling 100 pieces for AU$ 8 including postage.


----------



## jthm4goth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klerk*
> 
> Been trying to make some 3d renders of paracord sleeves to have a preview on what colors I will use on my build. I think I got the material pretty similar to the real ones, I just need to make it look from a distance.


Thats really good


----------



## Klerk




----------



## scubadiver59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klerk*


Simple but very nice!


----------



## sdmf74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klerk*


beautiful, where can I get some of those (with a little white included)?


----------



## OffTheChart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klerk*


DOUBLE DAYUM!!!!

will you be providing the end result as a file?


----------



## Laine

If someone were to program a tool that would let us basically drag and drop different colours onto cables, that would be incredibly helpful.

The rendering looks great, Klerk!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laine*
> 
> If someone were to program a tool that would let us basically drag and drop different colours onto cables, that would be incredibly helpful.
> 
> The rendering looks great, Klerk!


you mean like this?


----------



## Laine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> you mean like this?


Yes! Now if someone made exactly that. Oh wait.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klerk*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice ,and well behaved , I like its simplistic look and, i also want the file for download


----------



## lowfat

Finished my 24-pin and removed all combs.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Finished my 24-pin and removed all combs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks great, awesome job.


----------



## OffTheChart

@lowfat every time you make a post with pictures, I need to get a clean pair of underwear ready


----------



## Pheozero

Deciding on a sleeving pattern because the cables are annoyingly long and and a pain in the ass to deal with in a S5. Yeah or nay?


----------



## caliking420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Deciding on a sleeving pattern because the cables are annoyingly long and and a pain in the ass to deal with in a S5. Yeah or nay?


I'm going to give that a big


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Finished my 24-pin and removed all combs.
> -snip-


Awesome lowfat! Love it.


----------



## OffTheChart

@lowfat sorry if you mentioned this somewhere, but what gauge wire are you using? those look so nice and snug


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> @lowfat sorry if you mentioned this somewhere, but what gauge wire are you using? those look so nice and snug


I use 18 awg.


----------



## OffTheChart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I use 18 awg.


outer diameter?


----------



## lowfat

~2.5mm


----------



## Lutro0

Hmm I havent shared any photos in a while - I just finished these up!


----------



## pbaines

Looks good, do you do much heatshrink sleeving anymore? That'll still always look the best to me


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbaines*
> 
> Looks good, do you do much heatshrink sleeving anymore? That'll still always look the best to me


I like the heatshrinkless better







guess its a matter of taste.

Also, @Lutro0 looks awesome! nice color scheme and pattern, reminds me of my own









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbaines*
> 
> Looks good, do you do much heatshrink sleeving anymore? That'll still always look the best to me


Yea i still do both, but most people ask for the heatshrinkless now adays.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> I like the heatshrinkless better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> guess its a matter of taste.
> 
> Also, @Lutro0 looks awesome! nice color scheme and pattern, reminds me of my own


Yea i remember when I did a base sleeving for a customer that came up with that style of a pattern, ever since then its been the same pattern diff colors for the most part.


----------



## 350 Malibu

Jesus, I have been AFK for 400 posts now! I have a lot of catching up to do!


----------



## 350 Malibu

Hey guys, I have this left over PC I used as an HTPC for about 5-6 months, but it's been collecting dust for the last year. It's a 3770K Intel CPU, Asrock board, dual Samsung 830 512GB SSD's in raid 0, and 16GB (2400gh I think) of Gskill Ram. I am going to be donating it to charity for donations at an auction. Any input on colors for the cables? I'm going to completely strip it down, clean and redo it to make it look like new, but it's such a black and drab case from fractal-design (mini something, can't remember) and dark main board, I'm at a loss for colors. Any input would be nice? Going to convert it to water cooling from corsair and add a cheapy nVidia card is about it, then sleeve all the cables over the next 2 weeks. This is supposed to be the staple item at the auction, and the proceeds go to a family with three kids that just lost their house in a fire.





This is the sleeving color I have on hand... Would like to use what I have.



Thanks for any input.


----------



## lowfat

I think just a simple alternating black and whilte can look good. Especially since your hardware seems mostly monochrome.

Working on my GPU cables. Still have to terminate the older end of the cable still. Which is the harder part.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

This has probably been covered somewhere, but I didn't see anything related when I searched for it. I have a Seasonic X-1050 and I was wondering how hard it is to do custom sleeved cables for it. I've done extensions in the past but I hate having to route all that extra wiring out of the way. The only cables I would want to do is the 24 pin, the 8 and 4 pin cpu cable, and the gpu cables. Thanks for the help

Edit: Nevermind, some more searching and I found that it does have some double wires


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> This has probably been covered somewhere, but I didn't see anything related when I searched for it. I have a Seasonic X-1050 and I was wondering how hard it is to do custom sleeved cables for it. I've done extensions in the past but I hate having to route all that extra wiring out of the way. The only cables I would want to do is the 24 pin, the 8 and 4 pin cpu cable, and the gpu cables. Thanks for the help
> 
> Edit: Nevermind, some more searching and I found that it does have some double wires


one suggestion for extensions is to make a short 1:1 adapter off the PSU. Basically make the 24 pin cable only a couple inches long then make the extension to the needed length. I just did that with my build and it made cable management so much easier.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> one suggestion for extensions is to make a short 1:1 adapter off the PSU. Basically make the 24 pin cable only a couple inches long then make the extension to the needed length. I just did that with my build and it made cable management so much easier.


Hmm I didn't think of that, and that's a good idea.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Argh, this week is Finals week and I'm finding it impossible to get the time to do sleeving.







I really my sleeving done by the time I set the PC up but alas, I might have Fugly red EVGA cables for a few days.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Hmm I didn't think of that, and that's a good idea.


I found it in the psu pinout repository thread.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I found it in the psu pinout repository thread.


Awesome, thanks.
+rep


----------



## abirli

i feel like sharing!

here are a bunch of photos i took from some recent sets i made.

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/tech clash/IMG_3503_zpsc328c840.jpg.html

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/tech clash/IMG_3498_zps1ec3f94d.jpg.html

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/matt r cables/IMG_3490_zpsdda520a5.jpg.html

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/matt r cables/IMG_3470_zps9210f43b.jpg.html

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abi...evin extensions/IMG_3489_zpsabc5a2b5.jpg.html

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abi...evin extensions/IMG_3473_zpsd003150e.jpg.html

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abi...evin extensions/IMG_3452_zpsded9a878.jpg.html

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abi...evin extensions/IMG_3427_zpsa08262e5.jpg.html

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/dimitis cables/IMG_3301_zpsffe9e513.jpg.html


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I wanted to let you all know, my fingers and thumbs are rope burnt. I'll have pics of the sleeving up this evening! Almost done, up next is testing and making sure the cords are in the right place....


----------



## lowfat

Usually not a big fan of 3 colour sleeve jobs but I really like the colours on the first 24-pin.









I only have the 8-pin to cut down now. I'll be so glad when I am done w/ this wiring. Doing the wires at the PSU end stopped being enjoyable long ago.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> I wanted to let you all know, my fingers and thumbs are rope burnt. I'll have pics of the sleeving up this evening! Almost done, up next is testing and making sure the cords are in the right place....


Use zipties to hold the wire in place instead of your fingers. Pretty much has eliminated all cramping for me.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

It's when I'm stretching the paracord along the length of the wire that I get the burn. I could try putting a piece of material between my finger and the paracord though.


----------



## abirli

@lowfat i agree, but red and black are sooo popular, a third color really helps break it up


----------



## lowfat

Ecactly
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> It's when I'm stretching the paracord along the length of the wire that I get the burn. I could try putting a piece of material between my finger and the paracord though.


Use a zip tie to stretch with. Just slide the zip tie down the wire.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Usually not a big fan of 3 colour sleeve jobs but I really like the colours on the first 24-pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only have the 8-pin to cut down now. I'll be so glad when I am done w/ this wiring. Doing the wires at the PSU end stopped being enjoyable long ago.


Purr secks. This thread is officially porn now.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Doing the wires at the PSU end stopped being enjoyable long ago.


A shame - but you get such great results, you take such care for it to be perfect


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Usually not a big fan of 3 colour sleeve jobs but I really like the colours on the first 24-pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only have the 8-pin to cut down now. I'll be so glad when I am done w/ this wiring. Doing the wires at the PSU end stopped being enjoyable long ago.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great wok lowfat ,your work is an inspiration to me








I will be more involved with some work on this thread soonish , i am still a wee ways off yet , as im heavily modding the 750D and lining with acrylic at the moment


----------



## Jakewat

Hey guys,
Been gathering info for re-pinning my Silverstone strider gold evo 850w, and am checking with multiple people to be 100% sure. I want to re-pin it so that it's 1:1 rather than the current jumble, and have seen a bit of info now saying this is possible. If someone could also provide a simple diagram to show the general layout eg. Where the blank spots are.
Thanks in advance.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Been gathering info for re-pinning my Silverstone strider gold evo 850w, and am checking with multiple people to be 100% sure. I want to re-pin it so that it's 1:1 rather than the current jumble, and have seen a bit of info now saying this is possible. If someone could also provide a simple diagram to show the general layout eg. Where the blank spots are.
> Thanks in advance.


Pinout is the same as other Striders, see http://www.overclock.net/t/1420796/repository-of-power-supply-pin-outs

When you say 1:1, do you mean to ask if it's possible to rewire without using any double wires? Then yes, all recent Striders work properly without the sense wire (orange, pin 13->pin 20)

If you say 1:1 to mean it should look like extensions with no wires crossing, then no. Either make extensions (male<->female) or look at lowfat's picture to see how he solved the mirrored/interlaced wires issue.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Pinout is the same as other Striders, see http://www.overclock.net/t/1420796/repository-of-power-supply-pin-outs
> 
> When you say 1:1, do you mean to ask if it's possible to rewire without using any double wires? Then yes, all recent Striders work properly without the sense wire (orange, pin 13->pin 20)
> 
> If you say 1:1 to mean it should look like extensions with no wires crossing, then no. Either make extensions (male<->female) or look at lowfat's picture to see how he solved the mirrored/interlaced wires issue.


By 1:1 I did think it was possible to make it like extensions, but I think I was misunderstanding that it was mirrored. But at the moment I don't even feel like my pin-out is even mirrored, it seems more like the wires cross from different connectors (but I will confirm this tomorrow morning). I don't mind it being mirrored, I can deal with that, but at the moment it's a complete mess and I need to clean it up.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> By 1:1 I did think it was possible to make it like extensions, but I think I was misunderstanding that it was mirrored. But at the moment I don't even feel like my pin-out is even mirrored, it seems more like the wires cross from different connectors (but I will confirm this tomorrow morning). I don't mind it being mirrored, I can deal with that, but at the moment it's a complete mess and I need to clean it up.


Extensions are not mirrored, because they go male -> female and so the connector on one end is just an extension of the connector on the other end. *>>-->>*

Modular cables are mirrored because it's (more-or-less) the same pinout on one end as the other end, and since the connectors are facing each other, they cannot be truly 1-to-1 like extensions. *>>--<<*

I like to think of it like door handles. On both sides of a door the handles turn the same spindle. And turn the spindle, you push downwards on both sides. Yet the handles are a mirror of each other, because on one side of the door the action is clockwise and on the other side the action is anti-clockwise.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Think Chirality centers on a molecule, that might also help with this thought process. Even if they look identical, you cannot superimpose one onto the other.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Usually not a big fan of 3 colour sleeve jobs but I really like the colours on the first 24-pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I only have the 8-pin to cut down now.* I'll be so glad when I am done w/ this wiring. Doing the wires at the PSU end stopped being enjoyable long ago.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Really beautiful job you've done there all-around. I'm really curious what you mean by 'cut down' though. If, as it appears, you have sleeved and routed the wires with the connectors on one end all finished and in place and then are going to complete the sleeving and connector on the other end, how do you go about cutting the sleeving to length with it already on the wire and the other end already done? Am I misunderstanding what you are doing?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Really beautiful job you've done there all-around. I'm really curious what you mean by 'cut down' though. If, as it appears, you have sleeved and routed the wires with the connectors on one end all finished and in place and then are going to complete the sleeving and connector on the other end, how do you go about cutting the sleeving to length with it already on the wire and the other end already done? Am I misunderstanding what you are doing?


That is exactly what I do. I work my way from one end of the cable to the other. When I get to the psu I cut the wires and sleeve to the proper length . then crimp. Then melt the sleeve in place. It is hard and kinda stressful since I have little room to work with. I haven't figured out any other way to do it though.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Extensions are not mirrored, because they go male -> female and so the connector on one end is just an extension of the connector on the other end. *>>-->>*
> 
> Modular cables are mirrored because it's (more-or-less) the same pinout on one end as the other end, and since the connectors are facing each other, they cannot be truly 1-to-1 like extensions. *>>--<<*
> 
> I like to think of it like door handles. On both sides of a door the handles turn the same spindle. And turn the spindle, you push downwards on both sides. Yet the handles are a mirror of each other, because on one side of the door the action is clockwise and on the other side the action is anti-clockwise.


Yeah, so the thing that has mainly been confusing me is why my stider, by default, is setup in such a strange way. From what I can see, my current pin-out is definitely not mirrored because wires such as the purple ones, jump from different rows and end up in a position next to each other. So wrapping my head around how two different pin-out setups works has been making me confused







. Is it normal for some striders to not be pinned mirrored at stock? And can someone explain this cable from the short cable kit, looking at this picture it looks 1:1 to me (second pic).
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zpsdce3694e.jpg.html


----------



## lowfat

You can depin one of the connectors and straighten out the cable. The cable in pin 1 goes to pin 1 on the other connector. The cable in pin 2 goes in to pin 2 on the other. Etc.

As WiSK said the wires still need to cross. But this way they only cross once for each wire. That is as straight as you will get any power supply cable.


----------



## jfro63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Looks to be these pins?
> http://www.moddiy.com/products/Graphics-Card-VGA-Socket-Mini-PH-Connector-Pins-(Female).html
> 
> I'm more than confident that the Lutro0 Customs crimper would work for those. But you could always verify that with him.
> I would also recommend it for any crimps you might need. Perfect crimps every time.
> 
> http://modbunker.com/shop/cable-sleeving/lc-ratchet-crimper/


This is $23.00 from Amazon and works great.

http://www.amazon.com/HT-225D-Cycle-Ratchet-Crimping-interchangeable/dp/B007JLN93S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418290090&sr=8-1&keywords=molex+crimper


----------



## WiSK

@Jakewat

To explain the PP05E cable. If you would lay it flat, you would see that the connector on one end is upside down to the other end. The wires have been rotated through 180 degrees. Then on one end of the PP05E, the rows are interlaced (swapped).

rotation + interlacing = mirror








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfro63*
> 
> This is $23.00 from Amazon and works great.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/HT-225D-Cycle-Ratchet-Crimping-interchangeable/dp/B007JLN93S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418290090&sr=8-1&keywords=molex+crimper


Could you please show us a macro photo of a crimp made with this tool?


----------



## lowfat

Those crimpers awfully similar to the ones I bought from PPCS. The crimps were rather sloppy. The difference between it and my MDPC-X crimpers is huge. Even after thousands of crimps it still looks flawless. The key to good sleeving is consistency. I know I wouldn't be able to do cables the way I do w/o my MDPC-X crimpers and the Knipex wire cutters.


----------



## nyk20z3

I tried the heat shrink less method on some previous Telios sleeving I had and it was not consistent for me.I am thinking of using heat shrink this time and making things easy for myself,providing I can find a pin out for my Strider S Gold 850 PSU.


----------



## lowfat

The regular old heatshrink method is harder IMO. You need perfect cuts to the wire, heatshrink, and sleeving. It is also rather easy to pull the sleeve loose from the heatshrink.


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The regular old heatshrink method is harder IMO. You need perfect cuts to the wire, heatshrink, and sleeving. It is also rather easy to pull the sleeve loose from the heatshrink.


I figured with the Heat shrink it would stop the wire from moving completely.It shouldn't take much effort to cut a bunch of heat shrink to exact length and point some heat in its direction.Anyway i will consult with you guys before i finalize any plans so i don't end up going in the wrong direction.



BTW with the above sata sleeving will it just slide over the sata cable and then i secure it with heat shrink ?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> I figured with the Heat shrink it would stop the wire from moving completely.It shouldn't take much effort to cut a bunch of heat shrink to exact length and point some heat in its direction.Anyway i will consult with you guys before i finalize any plans so i don't end up going in the wrong direction.
> 
> 
> 
> BTW with the above sata sleeving will it just slide over the sata cable and then i secure it with heat shrink ?


This might help you ...

Lutro0 Customs - Data Sata Cable Sleeving Guide


----------



## Jakewat

So I'm helping a friend sleeve his silverstone strider 600w, and it has these stupid PCI connectors where the 6+2pin has another 6pin connected to it, and he is going to be using a single 970 which only requires a 6+2pin. So my way around this so far is to heat shrink the extra pin inside the cable and just put the ugly end into the PSU connector, removing the extra 6pin connector. This should work fine right? cutting would be cleaner but it's not an option.
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps09f0ce74.jpg.html
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps193d3a2c.jpg.html


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> So I'm helping a friend sleeve his silverstone strider 600w, and it has these stupid PCI connectors where the 6+2pin has another 6pin connected to it, and he is going to be using a single 970 which only requires a 6+2pin. So my way around this so far is to heat shrink the extra pin inside the cable and just put the ugly end into the PSU connector, removing the extra 6pin connector. This should work fine right? cutting would be cleaner but it's not an option.
> http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps09f0ce74.jpg.html
> http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps193d3a2c.jpg.html


You guys might be better off rebuilding the cable altogether, neater this way. Or you can cut off the second cable at the pin and make a Y-split.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> You guys might be better off rebuilding the cable altogether, neater this way. Or you can cut off the second cable at the pin and make a Y-split.


Well couldn't of done either of those anyway, don't have crimpers and am not cutting anything because it's not my pc. Anyway, the results look fine with the only problem being the +2pin being a bit short, but since he doesn't care about the back cable management it will work fine.
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps64b4fa2d.jpg.html


----------



## nitrousoxide10

Here are a few quick in progress pics I took. All products purchased from @Lutro0. The sleeving is really easy to work with and the tools work flawlessly.
http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/nitrousoxide10/media/IMG_20141214_115301.jpg.html

http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/nitrousoxide10/media/IMG_20141214_115124.jpg.html


----------



## stickg1

Pretty colors!


----------



## Lutro0

Hey hey guys!

Here is some pics of the newest job I just got done!


----------



## OffTheChart

ai, one of these days









how much shorter do you make your inner wire to get that nice bend?

my latest:


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> how much shorter do you make your inner wire to get that nice bend?


Bit more than half an inch

(4.2mm pitch x PI = 13.2mm)


----------



## nitrousoxide10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Hey hey guys!
> 
> Here is some pics of the newest job I just got done!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> ai, one of these days
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how much shorter do you make your inner wire to get that nice bend?
> 
> my latest:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice work!


----------



## pez

Hey guys, started some sleeving last night, and had a ton of fun doing it. Ended up with some satisfying results (and slightly tender thumbs and forefingers). I've gotta get some better cutters/shears. I had some cuticle scissors that just didn't cut it (heh; pun). Just ended up switching between them and some regular scissors. Therefore my cables weren't perfect. Also, maybe my mind wasn't working correctly, but the best 'threading' idea I had for SATA cables with a pencil. I ended up losing a good inch on each end because I was stretching the sleeving a bit to much to get the initial connector through. Any tips are welcome here







. Here are my results:

I'm using Lutro0's/Modbunker's Teleios sleeving and the 1/2 3:1 heatshrink, BTW:


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Video of my new system including some closeups of the sleeving, enjoy:


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> ai, one of these days
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how much shorter do you make your inner wire to get that nice bend?
> 
> my latest:


looks good but peel that paper off!


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Oh yeah having the inner wire shorter was a huge mistake i made with this build. But fortunately all my cables and extensions are so long it's really not a huge problem.


----------



## pez

Hope I can bother you guys a bit again. Attempted to start my PSU sleeving last night with the Teleios and it seems like it's just a bit to thick. I can't really get it to flushly melt/mold to the ends so that I can push them in. Am I doing something wrong, or is paracord the route I should have gone?


----------



## lowfat

Can you post a pic of your results?

Finished my system this past weekend.
I ended up connecting my 8-pin EPS to one of the PCIe power connectors on the PSU so I wouldn't have any cable overlap.


And just a few more pics.


----------



## pez

Well I didn't really get to do even the single cable I started on because I just couldn't get it to fit. However, here is a pic:


BTW, your sleeving job and CM is gorgeous!


----------



## lowfat

The problem is likely w/ the crimp. Where the crimp holds on to the insulation of the wire, it needs to be tighter. If you don't have crimpers try using a pair of pliers to compress it a bit more.

Also you'll need to melt the sleeving a bit more than that.


----------



## pez

Ah, I'm guessing you're speaking of the bigger, metal piece where the wire insulation/cover is? I dind't think of that. And yeah, that was just the quickest sleeving I could find to give an example of haha. I think it's probably thicker than normal because the stock/OEM cables are precombed and glued together as you can see in the pic. I'll give that a try, though. Thanks!


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Are you using the sleeving tool or just trying to push the terminal through the sleeve?


----------



## Lutro0

I know this is an easy question but you are using heatshrink to melt the sleeve to the crimp right? Also the pre-melt on that one peice looks way too melted I dont know if you did that on purpose or if it was the closest to you.

You only need to lightly melt it - in fact I dont pre melt the ends at all anymore as long as I am carefull because it will hold together.

If you need any more help please feel free to ask!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I know this is an easy question but you are using heatshrink to melt the sleeve to the crimp right?


@pez This!









The heatshrink compresses to shape the melted sleeve onto the pin. Then you remove the heatshrink to leave a nice melted bit of sleeve.

  

Sorry didn't have any photos of a single wire/sleeve but it's much the same technique for two as for one...


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Are you using the sleeving tool or just trying to push the terminal through the sleeve?


I was just flattening the wings of the terminal and pushing it through the sleeving.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I know this is an easy question but you are using heatshrink to melt the sleeve to the crimp right? Also the pre-melt on that one peice looks way too melted I dont know if you did that on purpose or if it was the closest to you.
> 
> You only need to lightly melt it - in fact I dont pre melt the ends at all anymore as long as I am carefull because it will hold together.
> 
> If you need any more help please feel free to ask!


Aaaah, seems I need to get some heatshrink for the Teleios then. I just ordered heatshrink for the SATA cables, so I just have the 1/2" 3:1. The video I watched (yours!







) for the 'heatshrinkless' sleeving used a type of paracord, so I didn't think about the difference in the material and that I might need heatshrink. After some time and frustration, I figured out that it was more flexible without being melted, and that I needed heatshrink, or I needed to melt it quite a bit to press it down to fit.

So from what I can see from @WiSK's pics, the heatshrink will help melt the Teleios a bit and form it to the cable, and then I'm able to just cut off the heatshrink and slide it in? It actually looks like he used a small enough amount to even leave on there.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> @pez This!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The heatshrink compresses to shape the melted sleeve onto the pin. Then you remove the heatshrink to leave a nice melted bit of sleeve.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry didn't have any photos of a single wire/sleeve but it's much the same technique for two as for one...


@WiSK What size heatshrink is that that you're using? In my last attempt I actually attempted something like that, but the 1/2" was just too thick for this application.

Also, +rep for all the great tips/help so far!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

This Lutro0 vid should help you ...


----------



## WiSK

That was Nils magic heat-shrink. No longer available. I'm down to my last few bags, so looking for advice on new shrink source myself.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> This Lutro0 vid should help you ...


Crap, I knew I should have ordered some heatshrink just in case. Thanks for the vid!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> That was Nils magic heat-shrink. No longer available. I'm down to my last few bags, so looking for advice on new shrink source myself.


Ah, but do you know the size of it?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> That was Nils magic heat-shrink. No longer available. I'm down to my last few bags, so looking for advice on new shrink source myself.


It does work significantly better than any other heatshrink for shrinkless sleeving. I also use the pre-cut ones. I've been out of black for ages so I've been using green, blue, and white. Getting dangerously low. If you find a shrink that holds up to a torch as well as the MDPC-X stuff please let me know.


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> That was Nils magic heat-shrink. No longer available. I'm down to my last few bags, so looking for advice on new shrink source myself.


The best I've found for heatshrinkless is 'modDIY Exclusive Glossy Black Premium Heatshrink' which, for all the highfalutin' title, is exclusively cheap at 9p a foot and does the job properly every time within the count of 10.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I've been using Lutro0's 3:1 for heatshrinkless with no real issues, but this came recommended from a friend (whose sleeving work is incredible) and will be what I'll be giving a go on my next build ...

http://www.cableorganizer.com/heat-shrink/heat-shrink4.htm


----------



## Jakewat

Just a quick question on crimpers. I know there is often alot of debate over the quality of crimps from cheap compared to expensive crimpers, but other than the quality of the die/ teeth what else makes the MDPC and Lutro crimpers so good?
I always see things like this, and want to know if people could either point out whats wrong with them or have had experience with this type of "cheap" crimper:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-Non-Insulated-Tab-Terminal-Crimper-Plier-SN-48B-Pliers-Hand-Tools/2041175299.html

EDIT: I did notice this model was on Lutro's commonly asked questions FAQ, but I still want some personal experience and more info on what makes the best crimper.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I've been using Lutro0's 3:1 for heatshrinkless with no real issues, but this came recommended from a friend (whose sleeving work is incredible) and will be what I'll be giving a go on my next build ...
> 
> http://www.cableorganizer.com/heat-shrink/heat-shrink4.htm


I've used their 3:1 for just about all my sleeving. Just also used it for my first attempt at heatshrinkless and it worked well.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Just a quick question on crimpers. I know there is often alot of debate over the quality of crimps from cheap compared to expensive crimpers, but other than the quality of the die/ teeth what else makes the MDPC and Lutro crimpers so good?
> I always see things like this, and want to know if people could either point out whats wrong with them or have had experience with this type of "cheap" crimper:
> http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-Non-Insulated-Tab-Terminal-Crimper-Plier-SN-48B-Pliers-Hand-Tools/2041175299.html
> 
> EDIT: I did notice this model was on Lutro's commonly asked questions FAQ, but I still want some personal experience and more info on what makes the best crimper.


The first crimper I bought was the 'FrozenCPU Molex Crimping Tool' (the one on the left) because it had good reviews on their site and looked to me a lot like the MDPC crimper which I had seen recommended. As I found out the hard way it tends to fold the tabs overlapping each other instead of making a good even crimp where both tabs bite into the wire and insulation. I guess if I didn't already know any better I might have thought it worked just fine, but I did know better. I gave up on it early on and bought an MDPC crimper (middle) along with pin removers and sleeve from Nils and it was beautiful. Perfect crimps every time. It also just works a LOT better in how it ratchets closed and releases.

Later on I bought Lutro0's crimper too (right) because I was going to give his thicker 16ga cable a go, but haven't got around to doing much with it yet. I still have a ton of 18ga cable on spools still and it seems to be easier to keep straight with less training than how the cable from Lutro0 came wrapped up off the spool with a sharp bend every 20cm or so I'll have to deal with straightening out. That said I have done a few crimps with Lutro0's crimper and they likewise were absolutely perfect.



Anywho, for a much better explanation of what makes a good crimper, I'll let Lutro0 explain it to you (from the FAQ's stickied to this sleeving forum)...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> _Welcome to Lutro0's Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions_
> [...]
> 
> Which Crimpers & Pins Do I Buy?
> - What crimpers & pins to use and the reason why they are chosen.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Click to Expand
> 
> 
> 
> To understand the following information you need to understand that not all crimpers are created equally. Molex has a chart in which it defines what is a good crimp and what is a bad crimp in its own standards - but from an experienced sleevers point of view there is only one good crimp, and that is the bite crimp.
> 
> The bite crimp is defined by crimping the end pins or the stress relief into the insulation essentially locking in the terminal a little more. Furthermore the definition of a good crimp is the tool being able to crimp the inside wings well, which is where the terminal will make most of its contact with the wire allowing flow of electricity.
> 
> Here is a small sample of tools that I have used a ton of time testing, this is just a small portion as there is no need to show you all of them. You will notice the markings on the tools, this will be used to reference the picture of the crimps that they can produce. The marks go from 0 - 7 marks. Most notably the 0 mark is the MDPC Crimping tool, and the 2 mark with LC before it is the LC ATX Ratchet Crimper.
> 
> 
> 
> So you see there is a ton of options when it comes to crimpers, the prices range from $20 - $80.
> 
> Now lets take a look at the crimps they can produce, please match them up to the marks on the crimper to the marks on the wire.
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice many flaws in the wires and that the wire gauge itself is a custom made 16AWG wire that Lutro0 Customs will be carrying so that people can sleeve with 16AWG wire and thus benefit from the decreased resistance, however I will also have an 18AWG custom wire that will be available as well.
> 
> To explain the crimps we will go down the list starting with the 0 mark.
> 
> 0 Mark: This crimp is right on the mark. You will notice that it has a slight bite and does not crush the wire and the inner wings have a good hold on the actual metal of the wire - this is an example of a good crimp.
> 1 Mark: This is an example of a crushed stress relief section as well as its over lapping making it very sub par.
> 2 Mark: This crimp is also right on the mark. Everything you want from a clean crimp is shown on that crimp - this is also the LC ATX Ratchet Crimper.
> 3 Mark: This crimp not only has bitten so much into the connector but it has actually broke into the insulation and created a bump in the insulation. While this is a strong crimp it creates a mess to work with and degrades the quality and durability of the crimp. It has also crushed the wire wings weakening the overall crimp.
> 4 Mark: This is a pure example of a bad crimp - over lapping wings and a crushed wire insulation.
> 5 Mark: This crimp has so much force that it forced the stress relief wings out of order and totally crushed the insulation weakening the crimp point - I even have to straighten out the pin as it made a curve in it.
> 6 Mark: This is another example of an overlapping crimp with crushed insulation.
> 7 Mark: This crimper has so much force that it bulged the wire and the inside wire back while crushing the top.
> 
> So from these photos we can determine that Mark 0 and Mark 2 Have the best crimps!
> 
> But this is no surprise but I will let the photos explain.
> 
> 
> 
> These crimpers are both the same models but with different handles. I have contacted the company who makes them and asked them to make the crimp pressure just a tad bit less so that a thicker wire gauge could be used ( this is due to my custom line of sleeving wire that will improve cable management and training )and the slight variation can be seen in a side by side comparison of the crimps.
> 
> I will also say that if you live closer to Germany please consider getting the tool from MDPC-X, The store is owned by a wonderful man names Nils - he will go the extra mile to help you get the supplies you need.
> 
> 
> 
> You will see that the LC ATX Ratchet Crimper hugs and bites the wire just a tiny bit gentler. However in all honesty the difference is minimal and both tools would would all the well on the custom wire. However the price difference is what makes the LC ATX Ratchet Crimper all that much more sweeter.
> 
> So now that you see what the two available tools can do (the Han Long [HT-225D] tool is the same at both Performance PCs and FrozenCPU) lets talk a moment about pins before we continue.
> 
> Most terminals that are sold are non-OEM terminals , this means that a manufacturer other then Molex has made them and sold them to our online shops. The problem with this is that they decided it would be a good idea to make the wings that hold the wire smaller and then sell the longer winged pins as "double wire" pins.
> 
> Any experienced sleever will tell you that these terminals "shorter wings" are garbage as they don't allow the proper bite into the wire to hold and make a strong crimp.
> 
> So what we can take away from this is that only the original Molex brand terminals should be bought even if you are just using the hans long [HT-225D] crimper.
> 
> These are original Molex terminals . You will note that they have longer wings on them. These are important as it allows the crimp to have extra hold and contact to the wire.
> 
> Most non-molex or non-oem terminals have very short wings and are never recommended for your crimp jobs.
> 
> Here is the part number for those pins -a reel is a string of pins while a bag is pins not on a reel- :
> _Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Female terminals_ - 39-00-0038 (Reel)
> _Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Female terminals_ - 39-00-0039 (Bag)
> _Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Male terminals_ - 39-00-0040 (Reel) (These are the pins used for making an extension)
> _Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Male terminals_ - 39-00-0041 (Bag) (These are the pins used for making an extension)
> 
> A good collection of all of these terminals and speciality ones can be found here: http://lutro0-customs.com/collections/terminals
> 
> From top to bottom: (MDPC Crimper, Hans Long Crimper [HT-225D], SN-28B Crimper)
> 
> *And finally, here is a list of crimpers that should be considered for purchase:*
> 
> *Han Long [HT-225D]* _For a couple crimps or a small project (not recommended for a full set because of the way it crimps the "wings")_ : http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1277
> Note: these can be found at many different mod shops including, FrozenCPU, Performance-pcs and others.
> 
> *SN-28B Crimper* _This crimper has potential, but even at the lowest setting crushes the wire too much for my personal liking. However there is different models (according to the color of the handle and apparently the date it was made) that seem to work better then the others with some adjustment to the "teeth". With those flaws and never knowing if you will get a tool that can be fixed to work I find IMO that this is a poor option although it does have potential to be a good crimper._
> 
> *MDPC Crimper* _A great crimper at a higher price (this will produce perfect crimps all the time that will hold, also it comes with pins):_ http://de.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-crimping/mdpc-crimpzange.htm
> Note: This is the german site and it is sold on the international site but his shop times are limited[/I]
> 
> *Lutro0 Customs Crimper* _The same as the MDPC Crimper but at a lower price and is USA based. http://lutro0-customs.com/products/custom-sleeved-12-24pin-extension_
> 
> *Molex Brand Ratchet Crimper* _This may be the best tool as its made by Molex, but the price is way out of range for most people:_ http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=97M9440&CMP=AFC-GB100000001
> 
> 
> [...]


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*


Yea I did read through all that and was mainly just asking around to hear some other personal opinions, and to see if anyone had used one of those cheap crimpers with success. I was also wondering, since Lutro does mention that the crimper I linked has potential, if it could be modified somehow to produce better crimps.
I would go buy an MDPC or Lutro crimper, but at the moment I'm always low on money still being at school and am always looking for some sort of cheap way to do things









Also, after sitting and looking at tons of random things on aliexpress or awhile I end up coming across plenty of sleeving too. I love how they can produce and sell it so cheap, and honestly from experience the quality is pretty good too. 50 meters for $13 US with free shipping always makes me laugh.


----------



## Lutro0

I will have to agree with lowfat on this, for heatshrink style the mdpc heatshrink is awesome. I have sourced it before but the mins are staggering and wanted to find something cheaper for heatshrink style that held the heat a bit to help with the melting process - which is where modbunker.com now gets their heatshrink 1/4th in 3:1 which what I use for all of my heatshrinkless sleeving jobs. Otherwise I try to use the same type in 3/16th in 3:1 for heatshrink style but it does gloss up a tad. I always did enjoy the matte looks of mdpc heathshrink when used well.

But heat retention and the ability to not burn or turn to mush is a key thing when using it for both heatshrinkless and heatshrink style. Sadly the types of heatshrink out there are crazy.

I will end with this, if you are trying to find heatshrink for heatshrink style it NEEDS to be able to withstand heat, be thin walled, and be either 3/16 3:1 or 1/4 4:1


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Yea I did read through all that and was mainly just asking around to hear some other personal opinions, and to see if anyone had used one of those cheap crimpers with success. I was also wondering, since Lutro does mention that the crimper I linked has potential, if it could be modified somehow to produce better crimps.
> I would go buy an MDPC or Lutro crimper, but at the moment I'm always low on money still being at school and am always looking for some sort of cheap way to do things


It cant really be modified because the part of the crimper that makes the overlap needs a small ammount of material added instead of removed. It needs a more prominent ridge on the top die.

And man I need to go through the whole FAQ and fix allot of links =P


----------



## pez

Yep, watched Lutro0's plastic sleeving video for heatshrinkless styled sleeving and now feel like an idiot.







. However, I just made an order for some heatshrink, a removal tool (because I am just wrecking my 'spare' cable), and some more white Teleios to replace what I've already destroyed







.

Wonder if I'll get it before Christmas







.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I have sourced it before but the mins are staggering


I just found one source for polyolefin 4:1 black 3/8" where the minimum order is 2 kilometers. That's 133,333 pieces if you would cut them 15mm. Is that in your sales range?


----------



## OffTheChart

where is that petition to have lowfat suspended from posting his pics in this thread?









having to look at his stuff at 2 different places is really killing me


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> where is that petition to have lowfat suspended from posting his pics in this thread?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> having to look at his stuff at 2 different places is really killing me


Hey now. I at least try to post mostly different pictures in all the threads. Well except for my log which has everything.


----------



## abirli

following photos used UPC Aegis sleeve!

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/ryans cables/IMG_3704_zps72b75af9.jpg.html

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/ryans cables/IMG_3698_zps3a770303.jpg.html

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/zx6r monster edition/IMG_3695_zps131beedc.jpg.html

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/zx6r monster edition/IMG_3669_zps650b4bcb.jpg.html


----------



## wh0kn0ws

I have a question about pcie cables. My Seasonic x1050 comes with dual 6+2 pin cables and I was wondering if it made a difference if I used dual 8 pin cables. I bought dual 8 pin pcie cables from ensourced and I made sure my psu was the one he said was compatible on the website. I installed them and my PC doesnt boot with the cables installed. Does anyone have any suggestions?


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> I have a question about pcie cables. My Seasonic x1050 comes with dual 6+2 pin cables and I was wondering if it made a difference if I used dual 8 pin cables. I bought dual 8 pin pcie cables from ensourced and I made sure my psu was the one he said was compatible on the website. I installed them and my PC doesnt boot with the cables installed. Does anyone have any suggestions?


Two 8 pin cables should be fine, if you mean two 8 pins off the same cable I.E daisy chained NO, I would not do that. You will not get enough power to the card IMO. The 6+2 cables are made in case you need only a 6 pin. My ss660 came with 6+2's and I have 1 - 8 pin and 1- 6 pin now. Just make 100% sure the pin-out is the same.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

@Devildog83 unless I missed a bunch of pcie cables, my psu only came with three dual 6+2 pin cables. The have one connector the plugs into the psu, then the cables split into 2 6+2 pin connectors. I was wondering if it matters if I switch the 6+2 pin connector to a 8 pin connector.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> @Devildog83 unless I missed a bunch of pcie cables, my psu only came with three dual 6+2 pin cables. The have one connector the plugs into the psu, then the cables split into 2 6+2 pin connectors. I was wondering if it matters if I switch the 6+2 pin connector to a 8 pin connector.


No it should not. All I was saying is that personally I would not use daisy-chained cables on a card that requires 2x8 pin connectors. Some will say it doesn't make a difference and others the opposite but there is no difference between a 6+2 and an 8 pin as far as I know as long as the pins are in the same spot. Just the connector is split in 2 pieces.

Like I said, my card requires 1 x 8 pin and 1 x 6 pin and the PSU came with a 6+2 and I now use and 8 pin instead, it works fine.


----------



## nitrousoxide10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> following photos used UPC Aegis sleeve!
> 
> http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/ryans cables/IMG_3704_zps72b75af9.jpg.html


Man I NEED a green build! Love that color.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Two 8 pin cables should be fine, if you mean two 8 pins off the same cable I.E daisy chained NO, I would not do that. You will not get enough power to the card IMO. The 6+2 cables are made in case you need only a 6 pin. My ss660 came with 6+2's and I have 1 - 8 pin and 1- 6 pin now. Just make 100% sure the pin-out is the same.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> No it should not. All I was saying is that personally I would not use daisy-chained cables on a card that requires 2x8 pin connectors. Some will say it doesn't make a difference and others the opposite but there is no difference between a 6+2 and an 8 pin as far as I know as long as the pins are in the same spot. Just the connector is split in 2 pieces.
> 
> Like I said, my card requires 1 x 8 pin and 1 x 6 pin and the PSU came with a 6+2 and I now use and 8 pin instead, it works fine.


I'll have to do some searching, but my x1250 is made this way as well. I've been using the single cable for my GTX 780 with no adverse affects on anything. If it were another brand I'd have had concern, but since its a solid unit and Seasonic, I didn't really think twice. I'll have to remember to research this when I get home.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Does anyone know if the PCIe cables for the EVGA 1300 G2 are the same on each ends? After sleeving the 24pin I am leery of assuming that the PCIe cables would actually be the same pinout on each ends.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Does anyone know if the PCIe cables for the EVGA 1300 G2 are the same on each ends? After sleeving the 24pin I am leery of assuming that the PCIe cables would actually be the same pinout on each ends.


Try this - http://www.overclock.net/t/1494167/tutorial-sleeving-evga-supernova-1300-g2-with-capacitors-and-stealth-lacing


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Try this - http://www.overclock.net/t/1494167/tutorial-sleeving-evga-supernova-1300-g2-with-capacitors-and-stealth-lacing


Thanks, man. That's the thread I used to do my 24pin ATX. Unfortunately there isn't anything about PCIe.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Thanks, man. That's the thread I used to do my 24pin ATX. Unfortunately there isn't anything about PCIe.


I think this is the pinout - 

The yellow is power and all else is ground so I am not 100% sure but crossing them is not necessary.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I think this is the pinout -
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The yellow is power and all else is ground so I am not 100% sure but crossing them is not necessary.


You are the man! I picked up some extensions from the marketplace that just happen to be the exact length I need as a full cable. I can even match the pinout just to be safe.

Edit: +1 for your help


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Does anyone know if the PCIe cables for the EVGA 1300 G2 are the same on each ends? After sleeving the 24pin I am leery of assuming that the PCIe cables would actually be the same pinout on each ends.


Haha, you know, I have this PSU and I sleeved it completely. There is NOTHING, absolutely nothing that is the same at both ends about this PSU. Evga nova PSUs may as well be the most twisted evil PSUs there are.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Make extensions for the mobo cable if you want a clean cable for the EVGA PSUS, the VGA and CPU cables are straight forward, however they like to twist their wires up themselves (EVGA does). If you have a voltage meter you'll notice you can do a much cleaner job of connecting cables.


----------



## morencyam

My AX850 was realy bad about double and twisting wires. Because of this, I am a big advocate of making a mini 1:1 pin adapter cable to come off the PSU then use extensions to your desired length. That way if you ever get a new PSU you don't have to remake all your cables, you can just reuse the extensions. I got this idea from the PSU Pin Out thread. Here is an example of the mini adapter I made(not my picture, just one I found in the Pin Out Thread)


----------



## pez

I just decided I'm probably going to keep the twists on my PCI-E on the Seasonic unit. Considering it's my first project like this, I'm not going to mess with that kinda thing just yet. But this next PSU I'm expecting is going to get the star treatment.


----------



## Sassquatch

So on a mildly related note I want to have a "remotely" located GPU on a future build and so I was wondering if anyone has ever wired up a custom PCIe x16 extension before? I have done a fair amount of reading on using EMI shielding and the effects on speed which seem to be close to nil in a good cable. I feel like I could do this on a technical level but just wondering if anybody had any thoughts or ideas before I commit several hours to soldering 400ish connections..... or am I just nuts for thinking to try this in the first place.. ?

Also if there are any suggestions on ready made options I would love to hear them. I not a bit fan of ribbon or other "flat" cables in the interest of maintaining a clean look.


----------



## Bertovzki

I will be buying a Seasonic Platinum 1200W or a Coolermaster V1000 soon for my build , Just got to work out cable clearance for the 1200W Seasonic , if anyone knows if i have 25 mm clearance under the cables would be helpful , i will be mounting it fan down in a 750D , so just the measurement from the PSU case to the Modular connectors would be good.
I want to mount 2 x 140 mm fans in the bottom of my heavily modified case , i have 31 mm between the fan and a 190 mm PSU anyway , but if i can move it closer would be good

And also are both these PSU's easy enough to make cables for ?

Thanks in advance


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sassquatch*
> 
> So on a mildly related note I want to have a "remotely" located GPU on a future build and so I was wondering if anyone has ever wired up a custom PCIe x16 extension before? I have done a fair amount of reading on using EMI shielding and the effects on speed which seem to be close to nil in a good cable. I feel like I could do this on a technical level but just wondering if anybody had any thoughts or ideas before I commit several hours to soldering 400ish connections..... or am I just nuts for thinking to try this in the first place.. ?
> 
> Also if there are any suggestions on ready made options I would love to hear them. I not a bit fan of ribbon or other "flat" cables in the interest of maintaining a clean look.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1424387/gallery-build-log-ultimate-wall-mount-rig-maxxplanck-v2-completed - a very clean look with tons of ribbon cables. However this project you're talking about is worth it for the sheer reason of being so bonkers. Something as mad as this (and a cable of 164 sleeved wires is going to be mad indeed) has a duty to appear in this thread. But&#8230; it is going to take very much more than a few hours.


----------



## Lutro0

Time to share some sleeving goodness!


----------



## OffTheChart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Time to share some sleeving goodness!


THAT's IT... I GIVE UP!!!! NO MORE SLEEVING FOR ME










think I should try some Teleois some time


----------



## snef

Hi everyone

just found this thread and it help me a lot for my last build-X

a couple of photos of my sleeving job
funny to see our progression

the first one I ever made and was not a success stories


use Bitfenix extensions and MDPC-X sleeving,
hate this job until remove all cable and put it into garbadge

the second one, not better



i used Silverstone PP05 short cable kit and MDPC-X sleeving

the third one, better but not what I want

for this one, I go to the dark side of the sleeving and did my own custom cables
I used Darkside sleeving, and a Japanese crimper

I just love this crimper, never made a bed crimp


I really love the Darkside sleeving, I tried MDPC-X, MODDIY and Darkside sleeving and for now, IMO, Darkside is the best,
I will try Teleios in a future build

already have a semi-modular PSU from a previous build and want to sleeve it, what a job



but the result is not so bad



I cut all cable to the correct length and crimp all cables
I use Darkside sleeving

the the last one

for this one, want something different, and after seeing the Lowfat's sleeving job, it simply inspired me to do this one
still far away to his level but i like what i do

the color patern, generally not a fan of 3 colors pattern but i think it fit this one very well instead of just whiute and blue



i used Lowfat method, crimp, sleeve and connect on motherboard and cut to the right length, crimp, melt the sleeve and connect on PSU



and the result is not perfect, some cable sleeve are not stretched correctly but for this one i can live with that
and i need to work on back of the case



i used Darkside sleeving, Moddiy white 18g wire and white connector and e22/Lutro cable stealth combs


----------



## pez

It's great to see the progress you have made! I still haven't gotten back to finishing up my first cable. It's hard for me to complete a project like that, as how your first one turned out, I would have instantly ripped it apart and started trying to perfect it. That's the kinda thing that wouldn't let me sleep until I've fixed it.


----------



## snef

Thanks pez

it's not in my nature to be perfectionist, im more fast, need it fast but I have a lot of patience

sit at the table , a good coffee and just the right music, I can make a lot of cables and redo it if I don't like it,

I just like this hobbies


----------



## lowfat

I wish more people would take the time to do sleeving right. It makes or breaks a build.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Currently working on my build though I would love to know where to start with the sleeving? Do I use the cables that are supplied with the PSU and just redo them? WHere to buy connections (White) and Cables (Green and White sleeving)

Tools Required?

The Cautious One


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Currently working on my build though I would love to know where to start with the sleeving? Do I use the cables that are supplied with the PSU and just redo them? WHere to buy connections (White) and Cables (Green and White sleeving)
> 
> Tools Required?
> 
> The Cautious One


I would read this. http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/0_20


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks pez
> 
> it's not in my nature to be perfectionist, im more fast, need it fast but I have a lot of patience
> 
> sit at the table , a good coffee and just the right music, I can make a lot of cables and redo it if I don't like it,
> 
> I just like this hobbies


I love it too, just sometimes other hobbies can distract







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I wish more people would take the time to do sleeving right. It makes or breaks a build.


Not everyone is a sleeving master like you







.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi everyone
> 
> just found this thread and it help me a lot for my last build-X
> 
> a couple of photos of my sleeving job
> funny to see our progression
> 
> the first one I ever made and was not a success stories
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> use Bitfenix extensions and MDPC-X sleeving,
> hate this job until remove all cable and put it into garbadge
> 
> the second one, not better
> 
> 
> 
> i used Silverstone PP05 short cable kit and MDPC-X sleeving
> 
> the third one, better but not what I want
> 
> for this one, I go to the dark side of the sleeving and did my own custom cables
> I used Darkside sleeving, and a Japanese crimper
> 
> I just love this crimper, never made a bed crimp
> 
> 
> I really love the Darkside sleeving, I tried MDPC-X, MODDIY and Darkside sleeving and for now, IMO, Darkside is the best,
> I will try Teleios in a future build
> 
> already have a semi-modular PSU from a previous build and want to sleeve it, what a job
> 
> 
> 
> but the result is not so bad
> 
> 
> 
> I cut all cable to the correct length and crimp all cables
> I use Darkside sleeving
> 
> the the last one
> 
> for this one, want something different, and after seeing the Lowfat's sleeving job, it simply inspired me to do this one
> still far away to his level but i like what i do
> 
> the color patern, generally not a fan of 3 colors pattern but i think it fit this one very well instead of just whiute and blue
> 
> 
> 
> i used Lowfat method, crimp, sleeve and connect on motherboard and cut to the right length, crimp, melt the sleeve and connect on PSU
> 
> 
> 
> and the result is not perfect, some cable sleeve are not stretched correctly but for this one i can live with that
> and i need to work on back of the case
> 
> 
> 
> i used Darkside sleeving, Moddiy white 18g wire and white connector and e22/Lutro cable stealth combs


I agree, the newest one looks a ton better. Extremely nice work !!!

Does it bug you that you can see through the white sleeve and see the different colored wires. With everything else so perfect it would drive me nuts.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> I agree, the newest one looks a ton better. Extremely nice work !!!
> 
> Does it bug you that you can see through the white sleeve and see the different colored wires. With everything else so perfect it would drive me nuts.


Thanks

yes , bugs me a lot, its the main point why now, I made my own cables, always use same colors wire, white if I use white sleeving or black if I use black one


----------



## lowfat

Wires won't show through the sleeving if the sleeving is tight over the wire. The only time it would show through is in a very tight bend, like in snef's case above. The holes for cable management are IMO too close to the motherboard. It is pretty easy to get the sleeving tight over the wire if you are using zipties instead of your fingers to slide down the cable.


----------



## snef

ohh ziptie?? I don't know this one


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I wish more people would take the time to do sleeving right. It makes or breaks a build.


This.

So much this it isn't even funny.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> ohh ziptie?? I don't know this one


My "how I did it" SATA sleeving has plenty of pics, including the zip-tie stage


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> My "-snip-" SATA sleeving has plenty of pics, including the zip-tie stage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -snip-


Very nice and tight and straight - good job bud!


----------



## pez

I'll have to try the zip-tie method once I get a better set of 'snippers'. I think that's one key thing that gets overlooked. I know I generally though 'oh a decent pair of scissors will suffice'. How wrong I was (in the case of a plastic-type sleeving).


----------



## ivicanikolic034

where can i get that things that you put on sleeved cables,to keep them arranged,in line? i dont know what are they called,so i cant find any on google...


----------



## snef

Stealth combs

Lutro and e22


----------



## ivicanikolic034

thank you....
out of stock :/


----------



## pez

Lutro0 has been out of stock on those for a while, but maybe he can shed some light on when he expects some more in







.

@Lutro0


----------



## ivicanikolic034

i found them on caseking.de (i'll be buying in germany)... but seems too much expensive for piece of plastic :/ i need few of them,in different sizes,looks like i'm gonna spend 15-20 euros just for that :/


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

This work for you? Icemodz is in Iceland.
http://www.icemodz.com/webshop/#!/Cable-Management/c/5474654/offset=0&sort=normal


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivicanikolic034*
> 
> thank you....
> out of stock :/


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Lutro0 has been out of stock on those for a while, but maybe he can shed some light on when he expects some more in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> @Lutro0


We are down for the merger but we will be back up here very soon with a huge sale for the reopening!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivicanikolic034*
> 
> i found them on caseking.de (i'll be buying in germany)... but seems too much expensive for piece of plastic :/ i need few of them,in different sizes,looks like i'm gonna spend 15-20 euros just for that :/


Yea there is allot of knockoffs and people sell them for allot.


----------



## USMC Modder

If I'm planning on making custom cables with 16 gauge stranded wire, is 60 volt rated wire fine? It's PVC jacketed 16 gauge stranded wire.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> If I'm planning on making custom cables with 16 gauge stranded wire, is 60 volt rated wire fine? It's PVC jacketed 16 gauge stranded wire.


Since there's only 12V going through it, you will be fine.

If you are sleeving as well then it's important that the insulation is under 2.4mm diameter.


----------



## USMC Modder

It is 2.72mm. Is that going to make that much of a difference?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> We are down for the merger but we will be back up here very soon with a huge sale for the reopening!
> Yea there is allot of knockoffs and people sell them for allot.


Oh good, I need a few more materials and a tool or two, so that works out







.


----------



## USMC Modder

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerrowire-24-ft-16-AWG-Primary-Wire-White-207-1202R24/202206416#specifications

That is the wire I am looking to use that is local. Will it work or should I look at something different.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerrowire-24-ft-16-AWG-Primary-Wire-White-207-1202R24/202206416#specifications
> 
> That is the wire I am looking to use that is local. Will it work or should I look at something different.


In principle MiniFit Jr pins can accept up to 3.0mm insulation, but I really recommend against it. It's difficult/impossible to stretch the sleeving tight with such fat wire, depending on which sleeve product you use.

Furthermore there is no real reason to use 16 AWG, although the only disadvantage would be if you need to crimp two wires together in the same pin.


----------



## USMC Modder

I thought that 16 AWG was better for heatshrinkless applications. I am going to order some wire from FrozenCPU instead. I have some other stuff to order from them for a new build I'm going to be doing.


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> I thought that 16 AWG was better for heatshrinkless applications. I am going to order some wire from FrozenCPU instead. I have some other stuff to order from them for a new build I'm going to be doing.


really we use 16awg for the rigidness for extensions and a fuller look over all.


----------



## lowfat

You don't need 16AWG for rigidness. You just need to make sure the sleeving is tight on the wire. I don't use 16AWG and have had zero issues w/ training the cables.


----------



## Freaxy

I never sleeved a cable but I got the cablemod pre-sleeved cablekit and I'm really not happy about them.
They used double cables on the motherboard side of the cables, so it isn't really tidy and cable combs have no use for them.

So I want to start making my own extensions, it really looks awesome and rewarding to make my own.
Now I ordered cable combs from E22 and received two pieces of sleeving as sample from them (which I think is lutro0's teleios sleeving).
The sleeving looks really good and I want to order it for my own extensions.

Now the question I have is, will I need to use heatshrink for tagging this type of sleeving if I want to make the heatshrinkless style extensions?
Not sure if it's plastic type.


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You don't need 16AWG for rigidness. You just need to make sure the sleeving is tight on the wire. I don't use 16AWG and have had zero issues w/ training the cables.


correct, you dont need it. i like to use it for my extensions bc i like the fuller look and solidness of it.


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> I never sleeved a cable but I got the cablemod pre-sleeved cablekit and I'm really not happy about them.
> They used double cables on the motherboard side of the cables, so it isn't really tidy and cable combs have no use for them.
> 
> So I want to start making my own extensions, it really looks awesome and rewarding to make my own.
> Now I ordered cable combs from E22 and received two pieces of sleeving as sample from them (which I think is lutro0's teleios sleeving).
> The sleeving looks really good and I want to order it for my own extensions.
> 
> Now the question I have is, will I need to use heatshrink for tagging this type of sleeving if I want to make the heatshrinkless style extensions?
> Not sure if it's plastic type.


although you may be able to get away with melting the sleeve with out heatshrink, its recommended you use head shrink to melt the sleeve with out it burning or melting away.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> although you may be able to get away with melting the sleeve with out heatshrink, its recommended you use head shrink to melt the sleeve with out it burning or melting away.


Thanks a lot! Heatshrink is added to the list


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

@Freaxy,
This vid should be helpful to you ...


----------



## Freaxy

Thanks, I seen them though.








Just wasn't sure if the Teleios were plastic type.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> Thanks, I seen them though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wasn't sure if the Teleios were plastic type.


Yes it is a PET sleeve!


----------



## GadgetGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Yes it is a PET sleeve!


Hi I am thinking about sleeving the cables on my corsair rm 850 psu.I noticed you mention about posting some photos about cables you sleeved.I know the post was over a year now but I would be really grateful to have some reference. Thanks in advanced


----------



## jleslie246

Where can i get cable combs?


----------



## GadgetGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Where can i get cable combs?


Hi you can get them from :http://mainframecustom.com/product-category/cable-management/ if you are living in America or Canada. You can also get them: http://www.e22.biz/E22combpack.aspx if you are living in Britain. Lutro is the owner of MainFrameCustom and he has teamed up with the owner of e22 to supply those outside of America.Hope this helped.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Hello everyone, I'm a bit new to sleeving and I have really enjoyed sleeving with what little I got with a sleeving kit I bought. I soon figured out that it wasn't nearly enough though so I have found a reasonably priced supplier in my country and the sleeving I can get there that is of a reasonable price is either PET sleeving that fits cables from 3-8 mm at about 48 cents per meter and Polypropylene sleeving that ranges from 3-6 mm at about 96 cents a meter. since I'm fairly new on this subject I wondered if anyone here would know anything about the materials mentioned.

I can always order a meter of each for testing purposes, but postage will cost me about 10USD alone so that seems a bit steep for something I payed about 1.50 for. Anyways, let me know what you think









Edit: currencies have been converted from NOK to USD for reference purposes.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GadgetGuy*
> 
> Hi I am thinking about sleeving the cables on my corsair rm 850 psu.I noticed you mention about posting some photos about cables you sleeved.I know the post was over a year now but I would be really grateful to have some reference. Thanks in advanced


http://www.overclock.net/g/a/30521/lutro0-customs-sleeving-gallery/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Hello everyone, I'm a bit new to sleeving and I have really enjoyed sleeving with what little I got with a sleeving kit I bought. I soon figured out that it wasn't nearly enough though so I have found a reasonably priced supplier in my country and the sleeving I can get there that is of a reasonable price is either PET sleeving that fits cables from 3-8 mm at about 48 cents per meter and Polypropylene sleeving that ranges from 3-6 mm at about 96 cents a meter. since I'm fairly new on this subject I wondered if anyone here would know anything about the materials mentioned.
> 
> I can always order a meter of each for testing purposes, but postage will cost me about 10USD alone so that seems a bit steep for something I paid about 1.50 for. Anyways, let me know what you think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: currencies have been converted from NOK to USD for reference purposes.


I would stick with the PET sleeving, it is the most commonly used material for sleeving. I would also stick with either 3mm or preferably 4mm diameter.

Also here is the longest extension I have ever made, it was around 38in and made from scratch using a thick inner wire diameter 16awg wire. I will never make them any longer than that for extensions.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/g/a/30521/lutro0-customs-sleeving-gallery/
> I would stick with the PET sleeving, it is the most commonly used material for sleeving. I would also stick with either 3mm or preferably 4mm diameter.
> 
> Also here is the longest extension I have ever made, it was around 38in and made from scratch using a thick inner wire diameter 16awg wire. I will never make them any longer than that for extensions.


Thanks, man. I'll order up 100meters of PET then









Also, would 4mm be better then 3mm then? I can get almosst any size, but the smallest is 3mm.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Thanks, man. I'll order up 100meters of PET then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, would 4mm be better then 3mm then? I can get almosst any size, but the smallest is 3mm.


I tend to like 4mm as thats what my sleeving uses but its a tight sleeve so 4mm works perfectly. 3mm is a little tight and if the sleeving is not braided right it could lead to spotty coverage depending on the wires used and how much you stretch it when sleeving.


----------



## Lutro0

Also been meaning to add these, someone was asked by a ton of people to take some comparison pictured of MDPC vs LC Teleios and I never wanted to take the photos myself to not show favoritism but he did a good job on the pics so I wanted to share them.

Just a foreword, I love both sleeves and MDPC was the sleeve I used when I first started sleeving and the owner was the one who encouraged me to get into the sleeving buis in the first place.

LC Teleios is ontop and MDPC is on bottom








Both Sleeves stretched




Both Sleeves stretched


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Which ones are MDPC & which are LC Teleios?


----------



## electro2u

The Telios is on Top. Bottom is MDPC. Telios generally looks more uniformly weaved. Interesting. I was very impressed with Telios when I got started working with sleeving recently.


----------



## WiSK

Think it's a bit divisive to show photos where the sleeves are loose and unstretched. You can't judge anything from that. Would make more sense to make photos of what it looks like when actually sleeving a PSU.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Think it's a bit divisive to show photos where the sleeves are loose and unstretched. You can't judge anything from that. Would make more sense to make photos of what it looks like when actually sleeving a PSU.


The pics without borders are the ones that are stretched and done heatshrinkless, I noted them. I am just shareing them as I get asked all the time as well. However anyone that has some Ageis, Teleios, MDPC, Bitspower, and others sleeves should post a stretched photo of them as well as I know people would love to see those.

MDPC and Teleios are very close when stretched I will be the first to say that - I would send the sleeve to anyone willing to sleeve them and take them pics but I wont do them myself lol WISK - you are a great sleever, want to tackle it?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> The pics without borders are the ones that are stretched and done heatshrinkless, I noted them. I am just shareing them as I get asked all the time as well. However anyone that has some Ageis, Teleios, MDPC, Bitspower, and others sleeves should post a stretched photo of them as well as I know people would love to see those.
> 
> MDPC and Teleios are very close when stretched I will be the first to say that - I would send the sleeve to anyone willing to sleeve them and take them pics but I wont do them myself lol


If I can find them all, I can take some pictures of MDPC, Bitspower, Shakmods, and mod/smart Kobra, all in orange


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> MDPC and Teleios are very close when stretched I will be the first to say that - I would send the sleeve to anyone willing to sleeve them and take them pics but I wont do them myself lol WISK - you are a great sleever, want to tackle it?


Thanks for the compliment. My sleeving is okay but I'm not so great at photos though.

I've got a set of MDPC black where it later turned out that the PSU was dud. Can take photos of that. And still got enough white and aqua left for a last MDPC set of cables. But no other colours anymore, only scraps. So I will order some Teleios, Aegis and maybe some others. I'm still looking for the military greens that Nils had, but don't think anyone else does them.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Thanks for the forward @Lutro0







Good stuff!
I used MDPC's and couldn't think of anything looking better, but that LC Teleios looks like an awesome product!!

IMO, When done right, MDPC wont show anything through the braids (but then again, I only sleeved once, and that was with black wires.. so would be hard to notice any gaps anyways)

Its been quite some time since I posted pictures, but since I dont have any new ones, Ill put a spoiler on them:

MDPC:
The last picture DOES show air between the braidings, but as you can see, it holds 8 wires where it is only designed to hold one









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## snef

i have MDCP and Darkside in white but no Teleios

i can take some pics if you want


----------



## electro2u

Send it to Snef! His pictures are some of the best around. =)


----------



## gunslinger0077

What do you guys think of my first try at sleeving?


----------



## nyk20z3

I ordered some Teleios Sata Black Sleeving and Heatshrink from Lutro,I will let you guys know how it works out!


----------



## daguardian

Just a quick question - Does anyone know when Nils & Mona will be back up and running at MDCP-X - it says a couple of months on their site, but it doesn't say when that was written, thanks.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daguardian*
> 
> Just a quick question - Does anyone know when Nils & Mona will be back up and running at MDCP-X - it says a couple of months on their site, but it doesn't say when that was written, thanks.


Only Nils can answer that. Your guess is as good as anyone else's.

MDPC has been down now since sometime last Sept, so a couple months has already stretched into a couple more.

Unless you are really in no particular hurry, you might want to consider getting what you need elsewhere.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daguardian*
> 
> Just a quick question - Does anyone know when Nils & Mona will be back up and running at MDCP-X - it says a couple of months on their site, but it doesn't say when that was written, thanks.


Don't expect it to open any time soon. Best make arrangements to buy your sleeving elsewhere.


----------



## daguardian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Only Nils can answer that. Your guess is as good as anyone else's.
> 
> MDPC has been down now since sometime last Sept, so a couple months has already stretched into a couple more.
> 
> Unless you are really in no particular hurry, you might want to consider getting what you need elsewhere.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Don't expect it to open any time soon. Best make arrangements to buy your sleeving elsewhere.


Thanks for the replies, any other suggestions for EU -to save on the shipping, otherwise I would use Lutro0 again - sadly last time I got a big tax bill


----------



## nSone

hey I was also about to ask the same question, so if u find a nice alternative could you please PM me or smt
I was also waiting cause of that "Non EU? Register to see low prices" thing but not sure how that goes or if it's worth the wait...
thanks


----------



## daguardian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nSone*
> 
> hey I was also about to ask the same question, so if u find a nice alternative could you please PM me or smt
> I was also waiting cause of that "Non EU? Register to see low prices" thing but not sure how that goes or if it's worth the wait...
> thanks


I think the non-EU is that they offer special shipping prices
Quote:


> REGISTER TO SEE YOUR PRICE
> 
> If you are not from the EU ... just register, log in and you will see your lower (19% VAT-free) prices!
> 
> Hello visitor of MDPC-X
> Hello MDPC-X!
> 
> You are not from the EU?
> Correct! I am not from the EU.
> 
> You want to see and pay just ~84% of the EU-prices?
> Of course! How do I see these lower prices?
> 
> It is a 2 step process, very quick and easy
> Sounds good. So what is step one?
> 
> Step 1: Register by clicking the big register button and fill in your data into the fields marked with *
> Ok! That was easy. I also made sure that my password is at least 6-digits long. After hitting "send registration", the screen told me that all is good. Next step please!!!
> 
> Step 2: After a successful registration, you will be logged in automatically.
> Cool! How do I know that I am logged in?
> 
> On the right side of the website is the section with the title "Account", there you see "Hi XXX XXX".
> Yes, I see "Hi" and my name underneath the "Account" title. Where would I log in again, if log-out via the log-out button?
> 
> Whenever you want to log in, you enter username and password correctly into the white fields on the right side!
> *click* log-out *click* ... And then I hit the "login" button. Aaaaaaaaah nice it says "Hello myname". Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Whenever you are logged in, you see VAT-free prices if you are not from the EU!
> Wow - love it!!!
> 
> PS: Customs-tax or any local tax does not have to be paid in 99.x% of the cases, based on my experience. So the price you pay here at MDPC-X, is the final price for you. No surprises at your door.


But if it has been since September and still nothing, I will be looking elsewhere, and will post what I find in Eu , if there is anything decent.


----------



## nSone

yes I know that sounds great, and really great for them to include such an option since I've had so many cases where I couldn't explain that non-eu countries need to pay double VAT to no ends.
hope they come back soon, and hope not to miss that since I think there's lots of others waiting on them
thanks for your answer!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daguardian*
> 
> Thanks for the replies, any other suggestions for EU -to save on the shipping, otherwise I would use Lutro0 again - sadly last time I got a big tax bill


E22 is based in the UK and stocks Lutro0's Teleios sleeving which i'm not the only one who would say is on par with MDPC.

http://www.e22.biz

*EDIT:*
Icemodz in Iceland has sleeving including some stock of MDPC sleeve:








http://www.icemodz.com/sleeving/mdpc-x/
Their own sleeving looks pretty good too but I haven't tried it yet.
http://www.icemodz.com/sleeving/icemodz/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nSone*
> 
> hey I was also about to ask the same question, so if u find a nice alternative could you please PM me or smt
> I was also waiting cause of that "Non EU? Register to see low prices" thing but not sure how that goes or if it's worth the wait...
> thanks


All _that "Non EU? Register to see low prices" thing_ means is if you are not in the EU you are exempt from the VAT (European value added tax which runs almost 20% iirc), but, if, say, you are in the US most of what you save from that you wind up spending in shipping from Germany plus in the exchange rate compared to what a similar order bought domestically would cost.

US:
Lutro0s sleeving
http://mainframecustom.com/

Canada:
Darkside sleeving
https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/fan-and-pump-wires-sleeve/

Both are very good alternatives to MDPC.


----------



## nSone

@Unicr0nhunter thanks on the info!
I'll check out http://www.e22.biz and see how that goes
I'm from Macedonia (a country in Europe-Balkans, but non-EU member) so it comes down to - if the store already includes VAT etc taxes in their price (which I think are unified for all EU members) upon receiving the item I basically need to pay a double tax since local customs only look at total value etc. bureaucratic BS
I'll contact e22 and hope I'll be able to explain this to them

btw I'm stalking this thread for a long time - GREAT STUFF GUYS! and just can't wait to get into some custom sleeving on my own


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nSone*
> 
> @Unicr0nhunter thanks on the info!
> I'll check out http://www.e22.biz and see how that goes
> I'm from Macedonia (a country in Europe-Balkans, but non-EU member) so it comes down to - if the store already includes VAT etc taxes in their price (which I think are unified for all EU members) upon receiving the item I basically need to pay a double tax since local customs only look at total value etc. bureaucratic BS
> I'll contact e22 and hope I'll be able to explain this to them
> 
> btw I'm stalking this thread for a long time - GREAT STUFF GUYS! and just can't wait to get into some custom sleeving on my own


Not sure you saw it or not, but I just made an edit to my post above before I saw your post and added another EU option that has some stock of MDPC sleeve.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> EDIT:
> Icemodz in Iceland has sleeving including some stock of MDPC sleeve: wink.gif
> http://www.icemodz.com/sleeving/mdpc-x/
> Their own sleeving looks pretty good too but I haven't tried it yet.
> http://www.icemodz.com/sleeving/icemodz/


----------



## nSone

THANKS!
looks like they're low on stock now, but I'll contact Icemods too
I'll post the results here


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> E22 is based in the UK and stocks Lutro0's Teleios sleeving which i'm not the only one who would say is on par with MDPC.
> 
> http://www.e22.biz
> 
> *EDIT:*
> Icemodz in Iceland has sleeving including some stock of MDPC sleeve:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.icemodz.com/sleeving/mdpc-x/
> Their own sleeving looks pretty good too but I haven't tried it yet.
> http://www.icemodz.com/sleeving/icemodz/
> All _that "Non EU? Register to see low prices" thing_ means is if you are not in the EU you are exempt from the VAT (European value added tax which runs almost 20% iirc), but, if, say, you are in the US most of what you save from that you wind up spending in shipping from Germany plus in the exchange rate compared to what a similar order bought domestically would cost.
> 
> US:
> Lutro0s sleeving
> http://mainframecustom.com/
> 
> Canada:
> Darkside sleeving
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/fan-and-pump-wires-sleeve/
> 
> Both are very good alternatives to MDPC.


I can vouch for Icemodz sleeving. I contacted them a while back about getting some samples of the orange sleeve. I had done all my cables with MDPC orange and since they were down I wanted to try and get something as close as possible to it. They sent me two different brands. One was ShakMods and the other I think was just their generic in house brand, but both seemed pretty high quality.


----------



## daguardian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> E22 is based in the UK and stocks Lutro0's Teleios sleeving which i'm not the only one who would say is on par with MDPC.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.e22.biz
> 
> *EDIT:*
> Icemodz in Iceland has sleeving including some stock of MDPC sleeve:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.icemodz.com/sleeving/mdpc-x/
> Their own sleeving looks pretty good too but I haven't tried it yet.
> http://www.icemodz.com/sleeving/icemodz/
> All _that "Non EU? Register to see low prices" thing_ means is if you are not in the EU you are exempt from the VAT (European value added tax which runs almost 20% iirc), but, if, say, you are in the US most of what you save from that you wind up spending in shipping from Germany plus in the exchange rate compared to what a similar order bought domestically would cost.
> 
> US:
> Lutro0s sleeving
> http://mainframecustom.com/
> 
> Canada:
> Darkside sleeving
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/fan-and-pump-wires-sleeve/
> 
> Both are very good alternatives to MDPC.


Oh that's great, I had actually been looking at Lutro0's comparison shots of the Telios vs MDCP just this-morning, and I preferred the Telios - so I can buy it in the EU, awesome news, thanks again for the info Unicr0nhunter +rep


----------



## Pimphare

Hi y'all. I just want to say if you decide to use LC Teleios sleeving, you won't be disappointed. It's easy to work with, looks fantastic, and pretty much stays clean looking.

Disclaimer: I'm in no way a professional sleever or modder.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I can vouch for Icemodz sleeving. I contacted them a while back about getting some samples of the orange sleeve. I had done all my cables with MDPC orange and since they were down I wanted to try and get something as close as possible to it. They sent me two different brands. One was ShakMods and the other I think was just their generic in house brand, but both seemed pretty high quality.


I'll check out their store to, even though I have a supplier in my own country the sleeving is of a brand I'm not familiar with and I would like some good stuff when first doing a sleeving job. I always have to pay extra taxes like daguardian when importing stuff so I feel his pain, the worst is when buying watercooling parts though because almost all of the good parts has to be imported and the import tax here is 25% + customs fees...









Anyways, how did they handle stuff with international shipping and taxes and such?


----------



## morencyam

I'm not sure. They sent me free samples


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'm not sure. They sent me free samples


I'll send them an email then, after all Iceland isn't that far from home anyways (quite a bit to the west but that's about it). Although the fact that they did send free samples says a bit about the store policy at least


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Hi y'all. I just want to say if you decide to use LC Teleios sleeving, you won't be disappointed. It's easy to work with, looks fantastic, and pretty much stays clean looking.
> 
> Disclaimer: I'm in no way a professional sleever or modder.


Very nicely done.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Very nicely done.


Thank you!







I really like what you're doing with your build. It oozes quality and great attention to detail. I'm getting the itch to build again. Sadly my budget won't allow it right now







. Oh well, in the meantime I'll enjoy all of the fine builds taking place here on OCN.


----------



## nyk20z3

I am about to place another order with Lutro but how much feet of sleeve does it normally take to sleeve a 24 pin,8 pin,2x8 PCI e,and a couple of sata and molex connectors ?

I already have 50' of black and red in my cart ?


----------



## daguardian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> I am about to place another order with Lutro but how much feet of sleeve does it normally take to sleeve a 24 pin,8 pin,2x8 PCI e,and a couple of sata and molex connectors ?
> 
> I already have 50' of black and red in my cart ?


Quote:


> The best and really only way is to measure them yourself or look at the datasheet for your psu. This can be found on the website for the manufacturer of your psu or a review site as well.
> 
> Now you just have to look at the cable length and then add them up....
> 
> Let's say you have a 24pin cable and the datasheet says it is 520mm long, so:
> 24x520mm = 12,480 millimeters = 12.48 meters
> 
> So for just the 24pin you will need 12.48 meters of sleeving.
> 
> And then you continue to do the same for the eps, sata, molex, and pcie cables. (not to mention any other things/cables you want sleeved)
> Once you have everything added up you will want to add 10-20% more sleeve to it just in case you mess something up or perhaps forget about something.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/0_40


----------



## abirli

got some new Aegis sleeve in and made this extension

purple/silver/white

http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/UltimatePersonalComputers/media/IMG_4471_zpsxikypokc.jpg.html


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> got some new Aegis sleeve in and made this extension
> 
> purple/silver/white
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/UltimatePersonalComputers/media/IMG_4471_zpsxikypokc.jpg.html


Holy Shnikes.



The Cautious One


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> got some new Aegis sleeve in and made this extension
> 
> purple/silver/white
> 
> http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/UltimatePersonalComputers/media/IMG_4471_zpsxikypokc.jpg.html


Yup, I'm definitely ordering some grey/purple/black cables in a couple of days.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> got some new Aegis sleeve in and made this extension
> 
> purple/silver/white
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/UltimatePersonalComputers/media/IMG_4471_zpsxikypokc.jpg.html


Oooh nice! Is this for Audi?


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Holy Shnikes.
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Yup, I'm definitely ordering some grey/purple/black cables in a couple of days.


thanks guys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Oooh nice! Is this for Audi?


noo but i think i will use some silver hmm


----------



## Murder Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I'll send them an email then, after all Iceland isn't that far from home anyways (quite a bit to the west but that's about it). Although the fact that they did send free samples says a bit about the store policy at least


his customer service is outstanding, he'll go above and beyond to satisfy his customers. i ordered some combs from him and managed to break two of them while i was applying them to my cables and he sent me new ones right away with no extra charge even when it was my mistake.
its also worth mentioning that he uses cartons labeled as fish for packaging and marks all his shippments as gifts and put the value so low that import taxes wont be a issue.
i'm having him do some custom psu cables for me, i'll get you guys some pics when its done

EDIT: we're located in the same country so i feel your pain


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Murder Inc*
> 
> his customer service is outstanding, he'll go above and beyond to satisfy his customers. i ordered some combs from him and managed to break two of them while i was applying them to my cables and he sent me new ones right away with no extra charge even when it was my mistake.
> its also worth mentioning that he uses cartons labeled as fish for packaging and marks all his shippments as gifts and put the value so low that import taxes wont be a issue.
> i'm having him do some custom psu cables for me, i'll get you guys some pics when its done
> 
> EDIT: we're located in the same country so i feel your pain


I actually contacted him a couple of days ago and got an answer quite quickly, and he did say he could even mark the parcel as having lower value then it does and thus go past the customs that way. I'll have to do some measurements and make a shopping list, but I will be ordering from there.


----------



## Murder Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I actually contacted him a couple of days ago and got an answer quite quickly, and he did say he could even mark the parcel as having lower value then it does and thus go past the customs that way. I'll have to do some measurements and make a shopping list, but I will be ordering from there.


good choice


----------



## vieuxchnock

*Finally, the sleeving is done for the graphic cards

http://www.servimg.com/view/17159996/625

My fingers are gone with.

Paracord is very nice but it's hard on fingers.

It looks yellow in the front but look between the res and the card, it's really green.
One day, I'll buy a good camera.

*


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vieuxchnock*
> 
> *Finally, the sleeving is done for the graphic cards
> 
> http://www.servimg.com/view/17159996/625
> 
> My fingers are gone with.
> 
> Paracord is very nice but it's hard on fingers.
> 
> It looks yellow in the front but look between the res and the card, it's really green.
> One day, I'll buy a good camera.
> 
> *


Well done!








I used paracord on my first attempt at sleeving, but didn't turn out so great. I really like the look of it and may try it again in the future since I now have a better understanding of what I'm doing. Build log??


----------



## vieuxchnock

*The build log is here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1535796/corsair-obsidian-450d-x79*


----------



## Ramzinho

any advice on a pin removal tools for cheap? dont want to pay 20$ for all the set.


----------



## lowfat

Buy a pack of heavy duty staples. Take a file and file them down a bit. Then use a pair of them instead of an extraction tool.


----------



## Pimphare

What ↑ said. Staples really do work well. Thats all I use as well. You can use standard staples also if you already have them. If so, just leave two of them stuck together for better structure.


----------



## Himo5

Don't forget the 1.5mm Hexagon key to go between the staples and push the pin out.


----------



## FreeElectron

What are the best cables when it comes to quality?
I am looking for some PSU 4 pin molex extensions and some 3 pin fan splitters (Y connectors) 3 way or 4 way and some 3 pin fan extensions to connect and control a large number of fans.

I also want to know how much can those cables handle?
Currently checking Bitfenix Alchemy and Modright cables.


----------



## theSarcoplasmic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Buy a pack of heavy duty staples. Take a file and file them down a bit. Then use a pair of them instead of an extraction tool.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> any advice on a pin removal tools for cheap? dont want to pay 20$ for all the set.


Alternatively, take a paperclip (softer metal), and hammer the head out until flat. File if necessary.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vieuxchnock*
> 
> *Finally, the sleeving is done for the graphic cards
> 
> http://www.servimg.com/view/17159996/625
> 
> My fingers are gone with.
> 
> Paracord is very nice but it's hard on fingers.
> 
> It looks yellow in the front but look between the res and the card, it's really green.
> One day, I'll buy a good camera.
> 
> *


Yellow? I dont see it







looks nice and green to me.
Great job! looks really good! I remember what my fingers felt like after each day of sleeving (3days x 3-4hours) Im not eager to take up sleeving again








But you cant argue with the outcome when done right, as it is in your case!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> any advice on a pin removal tools for cheap? dont want to pay 20$ for all the set.


As the others said, I head good things about staples.. but havent tried.. after sleeiving 46 wires (heatshrinkless method) I dont regret for a second that I payed 15$ for my pin removal tool








I was sleeving a corsair (witch is known as one of the hardest PSUs to remove pins from..) and the tool made it feel like not so bad..
Im not saying anything bad about the staple method, but I think it would have frustrated me A LOT!









Also, it came with a fun little "^GaMbi" print







didnt notice this untill my 5th wire, lol.


----------



## lowfat

I've depinned a solid 500+ pins w/ staples. I've only broken 2 in that time. And like @Himo5 said, using a hex key on the front to push the pin out versus pulling on the wire results in zero breakage. Also less stress on your finger tips. I can guarantee you that a depinner will break eventually. Then you'll be out $5-$10 while I'll be out 3 cents.


----------



## ozzy1925

i will buy wire for my psu from a local cable shop but first i have some questions: We dont have awg here so should i look for a 0.75mm cable which is equal to 18awg for my ax 1500i or 16awg 1.5mm?Any wire works or should i look for a specific brand?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i will buy wire for my psu from a local cable shop but first i have some questions: We dont have awg here so should i look for a 0.75mm cable which is equal to 18awg for my ax 1500i or 16awg 1.5mm?Any wire works or should i look for a specific brand?


REally I don't have any reference for the size of the wire needed for this but I assume it's somewhat the same as with car stereo. I can't tell you about the thickness of the wires because that is simply information I don't have, but there is something about the purity of the copper in use. Generally speaking the best speaker wires I bought was of high quality copper and you can notice this by the fact that it bends easier then the others (this could also be down to isolation so don't be fooled by that). I would say cheap wires are better though because the little you lose by low purity can be gained by increasing the size, and thus you get the same performance with cheaper wires.

I do hope someone else answers your question though because I'm just talking out of experience from other fields here.


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i will buy wire for my psu from a local cable shop but first i have some questions: We dont have awg here so should i look for a 0.75mm cable which is equal to 18awg for my ax 1500i or 16awg 1.5mm?Any wire works or should i look for a specific brand?


You shouldn't need any more than 18awg unless you are running this thing balls-to-wall maxed out 100% of the time. Diameter in mm should be ~1.023mm diameter wire (does not include the insulation).

When it comes to DC voltage, copper is copper for the most part. Audio may care, but your PC components won't. If you can buy from McMasterCarr.com in Turkey - they make some perfect primary cable for sleeving in every color imaginable.

Edit: Never mind, I just read about mcmasters international shipping policy, or lack thereof...


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> REally I don't have any reference for the size of the wire needed for this but I assume it's somewhat the same as with car stereo. I can't tell you about the thickness of the wires because that is simply information I don't have, but there is something about the purity of the copper in use. Generally speaking the best speaker wires I bought was of high quality copper and you can notice this by the fact that it bends easier then the others (this could also be down to isolation so don't be fooled by that). I would say cheap wires are better though because the little you lose by low purity can be gained by increasing the size, and thus you get the same performance with cheaper wires.
> 
> I do hope someone else answers your question though because I'm just talking out of experience from other fields here.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> You shouldn't need any more than 18awg unless you are running this thing balls-to-wall maxed out 100% of the time. Diameter in mm should be ~1.023mm diameter wire (does not include the insulation).
> 
> When it comes to DC voltage, copper is copper for the most part. Audio may care, but your PC components won't. If you can buy from McMasterCarr.com in Turkey - they make some perfect primary cable for sleeving in every color imaginable.
> 
> Edit: Never mind, I just read about mcmasters international shipping policy, or lack thereof...


i find this guide:


18 awg is equal to 0.08mm and there are cheap wires here:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/UL-3135-18AWG-silicone-wire-3135-18-silica-gel-wires-Conductor-construction-150-0-08-AWG18/1821832358.html
should i try ?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i find this guide:
> 
> 
> 18 awg is equal to 0.08mm and there are cheap wires here:
> http://www.aliexpress.com/item/UL-3135-18AWG-silicone-wire-3135-18-silica-gel-wires-Conductor-construction-150-0-08-AWG18/1821832358.html
> should i try ?


Aliexpress would probably work, although I usually buy my electronics stuff from elfa and as far as I can see they do have resellers in Turkey (which I assume is where you are at since it's what's mentioned in your profile). You can take a look at what they have, if not then Aliexpress will probably work just as fine. Really though any store that fronts electrical components will have 1mm wire so you could just take a look at what you have in your local area, the electricians need to get their stuff somewhere locally don't they?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Aliexpress would probably work, although I usually buy my electronics stuff from elfa and as far as I can see they do have resellers in Turkey (which I assume is where you are at since it's what's mentioned in your profile). You can take a look at what they have, if not then Aliexpress will probably work just as fine. Really though any store that fronts electrical components will have 1mm wire so you could just take a look at what you have in your local area, the electricians need to get their stuff somewhere locally don't they?


yes of course they buy it locally but there are many different type of wires around and most shops doesnt know about awg definition .so you say any 1mm wire does the job for sleeving ?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> yes of course they buy it locally but there are many different type of wires around and most shops doesnt know about awg definition .so you say any 1mm wire does the job for sleeving ?


should be about the same as 18awg, and if nothing else you can bring one of your PSU cables that came with the PSU and compare.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> yes of course they buy it locally but there are many different type of wires around and most shops doesnt know about awg definition .so you say any 1mm wire does the job for sleeving ?


0.75mm2 is fine unless you are making your cables like 2 meters long. This is what is recommended in MDPC forums for years









Remember it's cross-sectional area _mm-squared_ and not diameter of the wires. Diameter including insulation should be between 1.8-2.2 mm


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> 0.75mm2 is fine unless you are making your cables like 2 meters long. This is what is recommended in MDPC forums for years
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember it's cross-sectional area _mm-squared_ and not diameter of the wires. Diameter including insulation should be between 1.8-2.2 mm


^ Correct! When I said 1.023mm diameter, I was talking just the conductor, not including insulation, with insulation it will be more.

ozzy1925, look at the 150/0.08mm - the conductor diameter is right at (slight hair bigger) what I said it would be of 1.19mm for the conductor, overall with insulation is 2.3mm <-- So yes this wire would work just fine, and the temp and voltage ratings are perfect for PC use.


----------



## Bertovzki

Can someone tell me , is the Cooler master v1000 an easy PSU to custom cable or more to the point the cables.

I am a complete novice here, i want to make my own cables , but find it over whelming where to start , i have looked at all the guides and vids. , more things to find out like wiring diagrams , and work out quantities for all the needed cables.... 8 pin , 24 pin , 2 x R9 290 cables

Where can i get all the sleeving and everything i need , i see mdpc are out of action , frozen out , PPC's seem to have very little ?

If i instead decide to get them made , i need someone that ships to NZ does


----------



## rgrwng

While sleeving is pretty awesome, is there a reason why not to additionally braid the wires? if the wires were braided, there would be no need for cable clips to hold it all together. or maybe the bulk of the braids would be harder to route, due to bulk and overall shape?

i mean braiding, like with hairstyles, and such. will there be interference between the entwined wires? or maybe it shortens them up too much? maybe it ends up being very messy?

i guess you would have to keep track of the wire ends, but if successful, i think it would be pretty neat...


----------



## Jermoney3

Does anyone know about when the MDPC-X store will be back? The website says a few months but it isn't dated so I'm curious.
I would buy LC Teleios sleeve as well but they don't have orange yet


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jermoney3*
> 
> Does anyone know about when the MDPC-X store will be back? The website says a few months but it isn't dated so I'm curious.
> I would buy LC Teleios sleeve as well but they don't have orange yet


I honestly wouldn't be surprised if they don't ever open back up. I've been asking about orange Teleios for a while now as well. I have found that the Darkside Orange sleeve, Shakmods Orange, and Icemodz in house brand are all good substitutes, but none are identical both in color and weave density, but close


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jermoney3*
> 
> Does anyone know about when the MDPC-X store will be back? The website says a few months but it isn't dated so I'm curious.
> I would buy LC Teleios sleeve as well but they don't have orange yet


I'd wager 6 months more or never at all.

Really is a shame too. His sleeving isn't as tight as others but the colours are IMO way better. Grand bleu and Color X are definitely the two best shades of sleeving around.


----------



## Jermoney3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I honestly wouldn't be surprised if they don't ever open back up. I've been asking about orange Teleios for a while now as well. I have found that the Darkside Orange sleeve, Shakmods Orange, and Icemodz in house brand are all good substitutes, but none are identical both in color and weave density, but close


Dang how long has it been down for?

Someone also recommended UPC their stuff looks really good too, and they have orange


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jermoney3*
> 
> Dang how long has it been down for?
> 
> Someone also recommended UPC their stuff looks really good too, and they have orange


IIRC, they went down "temporarily" in September. I haven't seen the UPC sleeve though. I got lucky and found someone selling about 30m of orange MDPC sleeve so I stocked up


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I'd wager 6 months more or never at all.
> 
> Really is a shame too. His sleeving isn't as tight as others but the colours are IMO way better. Grand bleu and Color X are definitely the two best shades of sleeving around.


My frustration is that the military colours are missing from other selections: the two non-neon greens, copper brown and the sand.


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I haven't seen the UPC sleeve though.


its a pretty good sleeve. weave length between LC and MDPC. so its tight and looks good.

http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U...rtlomiej cables/IMG_3941_zpsfb8920ca.jpg.html


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> its a pretty good sleeve. weave length between LC and MDPC. so its tight and looks good.
> 
> http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U...rtlomiej cables/IMG_3941_zpsfb8920ca.jpg.html


Hey thanks for the info. I've seen some of your other sleeving pics and you do some really nice work. Where exactly would one purchase such sleeving?


----------



## Bertovzki

Can someone please point me to the tool you dudes use to plan colours , so i can try some ideas , i can not see it in the thread yet


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Can someone please point me to the tool you dudes use to plan colours , so i can try some ideas , i can not see it in the thread yet


Www.choosemypc.com/sleeving


----------



## snef

Darkside Sleeving is one of the best IMO


----------



## vilius572

Hello guys. I'm going to order sleeved cables next week and I want your opinion which one would be better? http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/?p=54e8a8de94a19 or http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/?p=54e8a9b4e6059
Cables will be going in this rig.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> Hello guys. I'm going to order sleeved cables next week and I want your opinion which one would be better? http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/?p=54e8a8de94a19 or http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/?p=54e8a9b4e6059
> Cables will be going in this rig.


it's hard to say from the picture, but do you have any chrome or aluminium colored parts there? if so then the one with the grey, otherwise you may want to put empasis on the yellow again with jsut yellow and black.


----------



## snef

black and yellow, no grey


----------



## vilius572

I will go with black and yellow then.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Darkside Sleeving is one of the best IMO


It is also 3x as much money as MDPC-X was.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It is also 3x as much money as MDPC-X was.


Really though I have seen super cheap sleeving look incredibly good, so it's all in the execution I would say. I got some at my local car acessories shop and from what I can see it looks quite good. Not that I will use it for my entire PSU though, but it looks decent on fans and so on.

BTW, does anyone have any pointers as to what to do with PSUs with more then one cabel for each pin? My Supernova P2 seems to be a b**** to do cable sewing on. I mean it works but I can't shake the feeling that it just doesnt look as good.


----------



## Lutro0

Orange, Tan, Pink, and Neon colors will be on their way here soon - Orange is first on the list as we already have the sample we want to use.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It is also 3x as much money as MDPC-X was.


MDPC "small" sleeve was 6.70 € for 10 meters* = $7.63 USD (* not incl VAT for non-EU customers)
10M = 32 feet so it was $0.24 ft

Dazmode charges $0.59 CAD per foot (Canadian Dollars) = $0.47 per ft USD at the current exchange rate.

So, it's closer to twice as much as opposed to 3x, at least for US customers, but you also can buy just the length you need as opposed to MDPC that sold in 10 meter and some even larger allotments, so, there's that.

If you were an EU customer MDPC was 8.50 € for 10 meters with the VAT (0.27 € per ft) and Dazmode's Darkside's $0.59 ft CAD = 0.41 €, so it's cost is more like 1.5x as much but I'm not sure if there would be other import fees or what the difference in shipping would be between them. Do EU customers have to pay VAT for items bought from Canada? I dunno.

In any case it's neither here nor there argument (or rather a 'here but not there' argument) seeing as MDPC seems more likely to be no more with each passing day, although you can for now still get many colors of MDPC sleeve from IceModz for $1.20 meter ($0.37 ft) USD.


----------



## lowfat

The last time I bought sleeving the CAD dollar was a lot stronger. It was closer to 1/3 the cost then. Shipping is actually cheaper from MDCP-X as well.

Just ordered 40m of Grand Bleu from I've modz. Thought I'd better stock up before they run out. Came out to 44 cents CAD per foot including shipping.


----------



## provost

Here are some sleeving shots for AX1500i and AX1200 for y'all

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/provostelite/media/AX1500iandAX12006_zpsf6c3c487.jpg.html

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/provostelite/media/AX1500iandAX1200Sleeving_zps23107307.jpg.html

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/provostelite/media/AX1500iandAX1200Sleeving4_zpsf620fa12.jpg.html

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/provostelite/media/AX1500iandAX12007_zps551e3094.jpg.html

I thought that Pexon PCs did a great job, and even threw in these goodies

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/provostelite/media/AX1500iandAX120011_zps20e2f6c4.jpg.html

and some candy..lol

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/provostelite/media/AX1500iandAX120013_zpsa76bb675.jpg.html


----------



## guitarhero23

Damn you. I wasn't gonna do grey with me white and blue because Snef did it and others, now you did it, but it looks so sexy...sighhhh. what blue is that?

I'll buy then off you so I don't have to sleeve it myself.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *provost*
> 
> Here are some sleeving shots for AX1500i and AX1200 for y'all
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/provostelite/media/AX1500iandAX12006_zpsf6c3c487.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/provostelite/media/AX1500iandAX1200Sleeving_zps23107307.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/provostelite/media/AX1500iandAX1200Sleeving4_zpsf620fa12.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/provostelite/media/AX1500iandAX12007_zps551e3094.jpg.html
> 
> I thought that Pexon PCs did a great job, and even threw in these goodies
> 
> http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/provostelite/media/AX1500iandAX120011_zps20e2f6c4.jpg.html
> 
> and some candy..lol
> 
> http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/provostelite/media/AX1500iandAX120013_zpsa76bb675.jpg.html[/URL
> 
> 
> ]


Is there any picture of their sata power sleeving job?


----------



## provost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Damn you. I wasn't gonna do grey with me white and blue because Snef did it and others, now you did it, but it looks so sexy...sighhhh. what blue is that?
> 
> I'll buy then off you so I don't have to sleeve it myself.


Lol... you will have to source your own bud.. These are for my officially titled"never ending Sth10 build"









The sleeving color is Teleios Aqua Blue.

I would remiss if I didn't say that the inspiration for my build has come from various sources including Snef's builds








But, I am no where as talented as many guys here when it comes to modding, nor do I have the time







... this is why I need help from skilled individuals to help me finish my build ..lol
In this case, credit goes to Jim and Davina at Pexon.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Is there any picture of their sata power sleeving job?


http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/provostelite/media/Sata2_zps06fb05f7.jpg.html

I only have the sata data cables done so far, but will have sata power cables soon too, and will post it here


----------



## charliebrown

I tried to sleeve my ocz 850zx it was so hard to get the pin out I broke some had to order a whole new set and just go with extensions you guys are way better than me


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the answer , that is helpful , not the PSU i really want , i want the 1200w Seasonic , but i dont think i will get my 140 mm fans under the 8 pin CPU out plug , as it is 190 mm long instead of 170 mm for V1000.
> 
> I will look into this , anyone else that has Cabled this V1000 PSU please let me know if there are double pins
> 
> And yes sleeving seems to be hard to get at the moe in general , zero in New Zealand , that site you gave has some good options , i am however looking for a deep or mid green , like in the Italian flag colour or deeper.
> 
> I have a Red / Black build , but want small amount of deep green , i will have UV green / yellow X1 coolant.
> 
> I will also look at other options to still use the seasonic PSU , as i will be making custom fan mounts , so i can make them sit lowerin bottom of case, i have 750D


There are some doubles, 3 of them. Not a great pin out chart but this was mine. It's from the point of view of looking into the open (plug) end of the connector (not the cabled side, if that makes sense)


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> There are some doubles, 3 of them. Not a great pin out chart but this was mine. It's from the point of view of looking into the open (plug) end of the connector (not the cabled side, if that makes sense)


Ok thanks , because i am new to this , im not sure how bad that is , or what a pain in the ass it is , but if i used this PSU then i would have it mounted fan down , so the bottom of the 24 pin would face up and be visible , and i see the doubles are on the underside of cable , if i am looking at it right ?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






I have a lot to get my head around with this pin repository thing

Also i am looking at other PSU 190 mm long options tonight , as i will measure to see if i can fit one.

Im even more confused than i thought id ever be , i dont understand any of it , maybe i should not be doing this at all , i cant see how those 2 charts relate.

I will see if i can learn something from reading , i dont expect to take up any ones time trying to explain this to me

Thanks


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> so the bottom of the 24 pin would face up and be visible , and i see the doubles are on the underside of cable , if i am looking at it right ?


Doesn't matter because you would put the splicing points for each double in the middle of the cables so it is hidden behind the tray or at least away from the connectors.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Doesn't matter because you would put the splicing points for each double in the middle of the cables so it is hidden behind the tray or at least away from the connectors.


Right i see thanks for feedback , i will continue to read , and get some familiarity for this whole process , it is only this pin out side to things i need to learn , i am clear about making and sleeving cables , just want to fully understand the pin out diagrams and and connectors , sleeving and making good cables should come fairly naturally once i get the pin out side of things sussed.

You can just study and follow the original cable before starting i guess ? , i do want to make my own , as i do everything in my build , and finishing with cables will be the way to go.


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Is there any picture of their sata power sleeving job?


Sata sleeving is pretty easy as i just completed a few sata cables.

The trick is not letting the sleeve Frey to much when you push the connector end in,from there you just stretch it for a tight fit then apply the heat shrink.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *provost*
> 
> Lol... you will have to source your own bud.. These are for my officially titled"never ending Sth10 build"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sleeving color is Teleios Aqua Blue.
> 
> I would remiss if I didn't say that the inspiration for my build has come from various sources including Snef's builds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, I am no where as talented as many guys here when it comes to modding, nor do I have the time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... this is why I need help from skilled individuals to help me finish my build ..lol
> In this case, credit goes to Jim and Davina at Pexon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/provostelite/media/Sata2_zps06fb05f7.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> I only have the sata data cables done so far, but will have sata power cables soon too, and will post it here


ok thanks i am waiting

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Sata sleeving is pretty easy as i just completed a few sata cables.
> 
> The trick is not letting the sleeve Frey to much when you push the connector end in,from there you just stretch it for a tight fit then apply the heat shrink.


thanks but i didnt ask if it is easy or not.I just want to see Pexon sleeving job.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Right i see thanks for feedback , i will continue to read , and get some familiarity for this whole process , it is only this pin out side to things i need to learn , i am clear about making and sleeving cables , just want to fully understand the pin out diagrams and and connectors , sleeving and making good cables should come fairly naturally once i get the pin out side of things sussed.
> 
> You can just study and follow the original cable before starting i guess ? , i do want to make my own , as i do everything in my build , and finishing with cables will be the way to go.


My chart is labled a little different from the one you posted, and some of the wires are also routed differently but this is a common thing. Many times the wire pin out is routed differently even though they are the same model, but if you look at the two diagrams you will see that the wires may be routed differently but the voltages/grounds are all actually the same and that us the important part. You can even rearrange wires if needed as long as you make sure the voltages/grounds stay correct.

I definitely recommend a multimeter if you don't already have one (an inexpensive one will do) and also a psu tester just to be safe.

I hope this post makes sense!


----------



## nyk20z3

Going to be doing some sleeving soon and like some opinions on a possible color scheme -

Everything in the case is Black/Red natrually as we have seen so many times on ROG builds.I will be using Lutro Teleios sleeving and thought about adding some Purple along with Black,Red.Do you guys think it would look completely ridiculous or should i say F it and try something unique ?


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> My chart is labled a little different from the one you posted, and some of the wires are also routed differently but this is a common thing. Many times the wire pin out is routed differently even though they are the same model, but if you look at the two diagrams you will see that the wires may be routed differently but the voltages/grounds are all actually the same and that us the important part. You can even rearrange wires if needed as long as you make sure the voltages/grounds stay correct.
> 
> I definitely recommend a multimeter if you don't already have one (an inexpensive one will do) and also a psu tester just to be safe.
> 
> I hope this post makes sense!


Thank you , yes it does make sense , and i had already come to realize that from the small amount of reading since my previous post , this is obviously to gain a straighter run of cables for aesthetics reasons , and the other thing that makes it confusing for me is the blanks have to be taken into account as well , when trying to add up numbers of cables and how the 2 diagrams relate ( original vs a pin out mod ) , also the double wires too , right , i am on the right track now ?
I will read study fully before i do anything. , next thing is finding the right sleeving and colour , it seems hard to get hands on MDPC now.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Going to be doing some sleeving soon and like some opinions on a possible color scheme -
> 
> Everything in the case is Black/Red natrually as we have seen so many times on ROG builds.I will be using Lutro Teleios sleeving and thought about adding some Purple along with Black,Red.Do you guys think it would look completely ridiculous or should i say F it and try something unique ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Colour is a personal taste thing really , but always good to ask opinions , IMO the purple doesnt work at all , nothing beats the plain old black red and silver or charcoal combos , they harmonize , also if you are going to choose something like purple , then you would choose a deeper red purple to harmonize with the red more , the purple you have there has too much blue in it and too bright , if you like purple then make it more subtle IMO

Other colours go with red black as a complimentary or highlight colour like mid to deep gold or any silver grey charcoal , even green too , as green is the complimentary colour of red.

For eg. i have the Red black theme too , but i have the GA Z97X G1 WIFI mobo , this is red black heat sinks but has gold and green on the mobo in the form of the gold audio shield and the bright but deep green of the Nichicon audio capacitors , and bright yellow green UV coolant , so i am thinking of a small amount of deep green in my cables.
Also lighting in the form of white for fresh highlights and some subtle colour in the right place can bring some colour to your build , if done right

IMO you would be best to keep the build the standard scheme with the silver or charcoal highlights , and bring a bit of colour in with defused acrylic end lighting or leds under your mobo in orange red or some subtle ambient in the right place not detracting from the cable colour or changing its colour.


----------



## Sassquatch

Just a sample of my first go at cable sleeving, I feel it has gone pretty well after messing up on the first few wires. Went with 550 paracord over 16 gauge, $0.15 /ft of sleeved wire so I figure just under $15 for the the entire 18", 24 pin when finished so no complaints there.


----------



## guitarhero23

Nice!


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Anyone know whether you can simply swap the connectors on a set of PSU cables to fit a different power supply? I'm having cables made for my Corsair AX760, but if I ever needed more power (1000W, say) could I replace the connectors to fit something like the Cosair HX100i or eVGA Supernova G2? Or would I have to replace the entire cable(s)?


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Anyone know whether you can simply swap the connectors on a set of PSU cables to fit a different power supply? I'm having cables made for my Corsair AX760, but if I ever needed more power (1000W, say) could I replace the connectors to fit something like the Cosair HX100i or eVGA Supernova G2? Or would I have to replace the entire cable(s)?


G2 I believe would be a no no to cross brands unless the pinouts happen to be the same, unless you're just getting cable extensions. Can someone confirm this statement?


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Anyone know whether you can simply swap the connectors on a set of PSU cables to fit a different power supply? I'm having cables made for my Corsair AX760, but if I ever needed more power (1000W, say) could I replace the connectors to fit something like the Cosair HX100i or eVGA Supernova G2? Or would I have to replace the entire cable(s)?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> G2 I believe would be a no no to cross brands unless the pinouts happen to be the same, unless you're just getting cable extensions. Can someone confirm this statement?


i wouldnt switch oem cables unless you stayed in manufc. series. like AXI can be switched with HXI, and RM series.

the cpu and gpu pin out on a corsair psu is different than that of the evga g2. i think on the g2 the 8p gpu is actually 8 pins and not a doubled wire!


----------



## AngryGoldfish

How about the Seasonic P Series Platinum 1000W? Isn't it essentially the same as the Corsair AX series?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Even some Corsair AX cables can't be swapped with other Corsair AX models. The AX1200 cables were different than AX650/750/850 and AX1200i/1500i were different still, and that was last I checked back in 2012 when there was some discussion from Corsair reps in their forums and on sites like johnnyguru about Corsair changing all of their modular PSUs to use one standard of cable, so, assuming they went ahead and did that then it would depend on whether you have a newer or older version of the PSU.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Even some Corsair AX cables can't be swapped with other Corsair AX models. The AX1200 cables were different than AX650/750/850 and AX1200i/1500i were different still, and that was last I checked back in 2012 when there was some discussion from Corsair reps in their forums and on sites like johnnyguru about Corsair changing all of their modular PSUs to use one standard of cable, so, assuming they went ahead and did that then it would depend on whether you have a newer or older version of the PSU.


something that can be done in such a case though would be to take the pins out of the current PSU connector and then set it in at the same spot in the new PSU connector. Hard to explain but basically using the cables from the previous PSU with the new PSUs "modular" connectors. You just hvae to be careful that you place them correctly, so that you don't get for example 5v where there should be 12v or a negative for a positive.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sassquatch*
> 
> Just a sample of my first go at cable sleeving, I feel it has gone pretty well after messing up on the first few wires. Went with 550 paracord over 16 gauge, $0.15 /ft of sleeved wire so I figure just under $15 for the the entire 18", 24 pin when finished so no complaints there.












Maaaad skills! Awesome!!!

Nice heat shrink-less job!
Sweet wire taming!
Good stitching/sewing! (could use a BIT thinner thread and/or a better contrast color (red / black?)
Awesome SFX sleeve alinement!! (on most of them anyways,,)

Probably one of the best I've seen so fare!! Good job!
+rep


----------



## JimmyMo

Anyone try out E22 cable combs for the newly released EVGA P2 individually sleeved power supply cables?

I can't find any specs online, but based on ONE comment in a YouTube video (https://www.youtube.com/all_comments?v=0yboyTPGI2k), it seems that the EVGA sleeving is SMALLER than 3mm, and even the "small" E22 combs won't fit?

"I own the EVGA cable set & because they are thin (like the cablemod ones) I cannot stand them! I have purchased EVERY set of cable combs out there & none of them fit these smaller diameter cables! Cablemod's might look a little nicer cause they might be slighltly more flexible but Tom you may wanna correct your video cause these cables do not appear to be compatible with ANY cable combs. Unless you can find someone to produce some combs that will fit, I will not be purchasing these for my EVGA 1300G2."

In-detail examination of EVGA individually sleeved cables, with good pictures:
http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/the-utterly-imbalanced-caselabs-tx10-d-build-s.202652/page-3#post-3134599

Can anyone help me out? What combs would work for the EVGA individually sleeved set?

I'd like to order these for my 1000W P2, and get some good combs that fit, but I just don't have enough information...!

Thanks to anyone with info!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyMo*
> 
> Anyone try out E22 cable combs for the newly released EVGA P2 individually sleeved power supply cables?
> 
> I can't find any specs online, but based on ONE comment in a YouTube video (https://www.youtube.com/all_comments?v=0yboyTPGI2k), it seems that the EVGA sleeving is SMALLER than 3mm, and even the "small" E22 combs won't fit?
> 
> "I own the EVGA cable set & because they are thin (like the cablemod ones) I cannot stand them! I have purchased EVERY set of cable combs out there & none of them fit these smaller diameter cables! Cablemod's might look a little nicer cause they might be slighltly more flexible but Tom you may wanna correct your video cause these cables do not appear to be compatible with ANY cable combs. Unless you can find someone to produce some combs that will fit, I will not be purchasing these for my EVGA 1300G2."
> 
> In-detail examination of EVGA individually sleeved cables, with good pictures:
> http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/the-utterly-imbalanced-caselabs-tx10-d-build-s.202652/page-3#post-3134599
> 
> Can anyone help me out? What combs would work for the EVGA individually sleeved set?
> 
> I'd like to order these for my 1000W P2, and get some good combs that fit, but I just don't have enough information...!
> 
> Thanks to anyone with info!


I can measure them for you tomorrow with some calipers, but from the top of my head I can say that it will be somewhat problematic since there are several of the 24pin cables that are double. I only think it's the 24 pin though so I'm thinking of doing an extention cord for it, but I can look at them more closely when I measure the diameter. The sleeving job is top notch though.


----------



## JimmyMo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I can measure them for you tomorrow with some calipers, but from the top of my head I can say that it will be somewhat problematic since there are several of the 24pin cables that are double. I only think it's the 24 pin though so I'm thinking of doing an extention cord for it, but I can look at them more closely when I measure the diameter. The sleeving job is top notch though.


Thank you so much - - I really appreciate it!

I am most interested in the gauge of the PCI-E cables. I'm thinking about just getting the VGA/Molex set: http://www.performance-pcs.com/evga-single-braid-cable-sets/evga-1600w-g2-p2-t2-red-additional-power-supply-cable-set-individually-sleeved.html

The video card would visually benefit most from the individually sleeved look. I'd like to keep 'em tidy, though, and can't determine if the "small" E22s are the way to go or not... (http://www.performance-pcs.com/e22-cable-comb-4-24-slots-small-clear.html)


----------



## Murder Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> How about the Seasonic P Series Platinum 1000W? Isn't it essentially the same as the Corsair AX series?


i know the seasonic x series 1050w cables can be swapped with the xfx pro series black edition 1050w and vice versa.


----------



## micul

Looking to buy some wire . is this a good buy :
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-Stranded-UL-1007-Hook-Up-Wire-Cable-16-30AWG-Cord-Hook-up-DIY-Electrical-/111278677076?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item19e8b9dc54


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *micul*
> 
> Looking to buy some wire . is this a good buy :
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-Stranded-UL-1007-Hook-Up-Wire-Cable-16-30AWG-Cord-Hook-up-DIY-Electrical-/111278677076?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item19e8b9dc54


did you want 18 or 16 awg?

the 18 is fine... 16 is on the beefy side and may make crimping and inserting the wire more difficult


----------



## guitarhero23

Which do you guys like? I think I'm leaning towards #3.


----------



## morencyam

Definitely #3


----------



## geort45

My assymetric suggestion


----------



## lowfat

I agree with @geort45. Symmetrical wiring is very much overrated.


----------



## nitrousoxide10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sassquatch*


I really like the look of this sleeving. Great work!


----------



## nyk20z3

Ordered some Teleios sata sleeving in Red,I already sleeved my sata cables in Teleios in Black but i want to change the SSD sata cable sleeving to red for a little contrast.

Also ordered 75' of Black and Red Teleios but still need to decide if some one should do the PSU cables for me or if i am confident enough to tackle it myself.


----------



## patriot21

Hallo guys,im new here and i would like your help.I have a corsair rm750 gold PSU,and i would like to sleeve it.My questions are...
1.I am from Greece,where can i order a good quality sleeve kit from?
2.The cables of this PSU are like one each other,should i cut them with scissor or a knife?
3.which dimesnsion of sleeve should i buy?
4.i want to slleve tha sata cables too..
5.How much meters will i need?
Sorry for my english,but im a Greek guy..I would appreciate your help.Thanks!

p.s.here is a foto of the cables..


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Ok, I need peoples opinions!

I am not happy with how my work with the Milliput turned out. It worked, but the color wasn't a perfect match, so I'd have to paint the whole fan case and well, I really don't want to do that for 16 fans, so ...

Time to change the look of the fans by getting rid of those ugly stock red, black, and yellow exposed wires.



These are the stock fans.



Here is a fan with all the wires black. I'm thinking I will get a simple all black (maybe orange) round sticker for the center.



Here is a fan with all the wires orange. I'm thinking I will get a simple all orange (maybe black) round sticker for the center.

So what do you think?

All black wires with a black center cover.
All black wires with an orange center cover.
All orange wires with a black center cover.
All orange wires with an orange center cover.
Something else?

To get a feel for the rest of the color scheme on this build, here is the log ...

[Build Log] Muzzle Flash II: The Sniper


----------



## lowfat

Why not just sleeve the wires w/ black sleeving to the hub? Then use a black sticker over the hub if possible.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Why not just sleeve the wires w/ black sleeving to the hub? Then use a black sticker over the hub if possible.


The little clips that are on the arm of the fan won't allow even a little bit of shrink on 22AWG wire.

That was actually my first thought.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> The little clips that are on the arm of the fan won't allow even a little bit of shrink on 22AWG wire.
> 
> That was actually my first thought.


Take an exactoknife and clip them off. That's what I do after seeing lutro0 video on fan sleeving


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Ok, I need peoples opinions!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I am not happy with how my work with the Milliput turned out. It worked, but the color wasn't a perfect match, so I'd have to paint the whole fan case and well, I really don't want to do that for 16 fans, so ...
> 
> Time to change the look of the fans by getting rid of those ugly stock red, black, and yellow exposed wires.
> 
> 
> 
> These are the stock fans.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a fan with all the wires black. I'm thinking I will get a simple all black (maybe orange) round sticker for the center.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a fan with all the wires orange. I'm thinking I will get a simple all orange (maybe black) round sticker for the center.
> 
> So what do you think?
> 
> All black wires with a black center cover.
> All black wires with an orange center cover.
> All orange wires with a black center cover.
> All orange wires with an orange center cover.
> Something else?
> 
> To get a feel for the rest of the color scheme on this build, here is the log ...
> 
> [Build Log] Muzzle Flash II: The Sniper


Definitely a fan of the orange wire, and probably best with a black sticker.


----------



## Bertovzki

Ha , personal taste thing , my preference is black sticker , black wires , i like the idea of balance between orange and black , to me too much orange would not look so good , just my 2 cents


----------



## Godleigh

Hey, has anyone used cablemod's RM replacement cables? If so, what is the diameter of the sleeved cable?


----------



## guitarhero23

Anyone notice on the performance pcs homepage they now say they offer cable sleeving? Id have to see some solid examples before i order with them over ensoirced or lutr0. Picture examples they have up dont wow me currently.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Anyone notice on the performance pcs homepage they now say they offer cable sleeving? Id have to see some solid examples before i order with them over ensoirced or lutr0. Picture examples they have up dont wow me currently.


PPCs stated return/exchange policy would shy me away from ordering any custom sleeved cables from them, because whether they did a good job or not or whether you are happy with it or not you are stuck with it regardless.
Quote:


> If you are not satisfied with your component purchase, you must contact us within 3 business days of delivery to be eligible for a refund or exchange. THERE WILL BE ABSOLUTELY NO REFUND OR EXCHANGE OF ANY CUSTOM SLEEVED POWER SUPPLY, MODIFIED CHASSIS, custom made to order items, or any custom modified part that is no longer a stock ! This includes custom made vinyl, lasered parts, cables, sleeved hardware other then single wired hardware (ie. fans) and vinyl dyed drives. ...


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> PPCs stated return/exchange policy would shy me away from ordering any custom sleeved cables from them, because whether they did a good job or not or whether you are happy with it or not you are stuck with it regardless.


Lol. You receieve a crap sleeve job and can't return it? Sounds fantastic, /sarcasm And from the horror stories of their customer services (they really need to change some staff around) I bet they'd get the guy who made the cable to respond all pissed off and offended that you didn't like his work.

Yes they are cheaper but lets compare:

*24 Pin Connector:*
Performance-pcs: $23.95 for ~40cm


Ensourced: $27.25 for 40cm


It's a no brainer









Lutro0 is $59.99 for 30.5cm


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Performance-pcs: $23.95 for ~40cm












They outsource the sleeving work to the local elementary school?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They outsource the sleeving work to the local elementary school?


Hey I worked hard on that


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Ensourced: $27.25 for 40cm


I don't understand how he could/would do it for so cheap. That is like $5/hr.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I don't understand how he could/would do it for so cheap. That is like $5/hr.


Maybe he's incredibly efficient! Don't tempt him to raise prices!


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I don't understand how he could/would do it for so cheap. That is like $5/hr.


Dunno, but I'm tempted to throw some money his way and check out his work. Looks good from what I can see. God knows if I did it myself I'd have to pay myself even more.


----------



## ozzy1925

i wish he also do plastic sleeving


----------



## nyk20z3

Same i would go Black\Black.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i wish he also do plastic sleeving


He doesn't ? Damn i was thinking of sending some Teleios his way.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Same i would go Black\Black.
> He doesn't ? Damn i was thinking of sending some Teleios his way.


dunno, i saw his web shop has only paracord sleeve


----------



## rgrwng

i plan to order some Teleios sleeving, and would like to use the heatshrinkless method to redo my power supply, which already has MDPC on it..

instead of resleeving the original hardware (stripping MDPC and replacing with Teleios), i could just make new strands for myself, to expand my sleeving knowledge.

if i decide to make a new set of wires, and want to do a black and red color scheme, should i use black wires for the red sleeve, or white wire? i think that using white wire would make the red pop a bit more, while the black wires make it darker.


----------



## lowfat

The colour of the wire makes very little difference if the sleeving is tight over the wire. The only time it really shows through is if the wire underneath is yellow/red/orange and the sleeving is white. And even then only if you compare it to other cables that are sleeved w/ white.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> i plan to order some Teleios sleeving, and would like to use the heatshrinkless method to redo my power supply, which already has MDPC on it..
> 
> instead of resleeving the original hardware (stripping MDPC and replacing with Teleios), i could just make new strands for myself, to expand my sleeving knowledge.
> 
> if i decide to make a new set of wires, and want to do a black and red color scheme, should i use black wires for the red sleeve, or white wire? i think that using white wire would make the red pop a bit more, while the black wires make it darker.


As low fat said, wire color doesn't make a difference if the sleeve is tight over the wire. However, you can get wire in just about any color you want. So if you really wanted to, you could use the same color wire as sleeve. Not necessary at all, but an option


----------



## charliebrown

im running acrylic in my new build but will be using a little soft tubing in unseen places what are the best soft tubing have never used any since i started watercooling always acrylic

lol wrong thread


----------



## yoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> My assymetric suggestion


how u did that 3d model ? if u dont mind answering







i would like to try it


----------



## jfro63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Can someone please point me to the tool you dudes use to plan colours , so i can try some ideas , i can not see it in the thread yet
> 
> 
> 
> Www.choosemypc.com/sleeving
Click to expand...

Try http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/

Got the .com and .net confused.....


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfro63*
> 
> Try http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/
> 
> Got the .com and .net confused.....


Yes thanks , i worked that out after finding myself somewhere else







, all good , i have been using the tool


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> As low fat said, wire color doesn't make a difference if the sleeve is tight over the wire. However, you can get wire in just about any color you want. So if you really wanted to, you could use the same color wire as sleeve. Not necessary at all, but an option


I just went to the auto parts store and bought 18 gauge wire in different colors. They had red, black, green, blue and white in 25ft roles for about 6 bucks each. I bought the colors to match the wires as close to the sleeve as possible. White for white, black for black and blue for blue and purple. It really made no difference since I used para-cord but it made me feel better and would work really well for other types of sleeve. I have seen some that you can actually see the writing through the sleeve and these had no writing on the wires.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I just went to the auto parts store and bought 18 gauge wire in different colors. They had red, black, green, blue and white in 25ft roles for about 6 bucks each. I bought the colors to match the wires as close to the sleeve as possible. White for white, black for black and blue for blue and purple. It really made no difference since I used para-cord but it made me feel better and would work really well for other types of sleeve. I have seen some that you can actually see the writing through the sleeve and these had no writing on the wires.


I do that with my sleeving jobs. It really helps hide things through the weave.


----------



## Sassquatch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitrousoxide10*
> 
> I really like the look of this sleeving. Great work!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maaaad skills! Awesome!!!
> 
> Nice heat shrink-less job!
> Sweet wire taming!
> Good stitching/sewing! (could use a BIT thinner thread and/or a better contrast color (red / black?)
> Awesome SFX sleeve alinement!! (on most of them anyways,,)
> 
> Probably one of the best I've seen so fare!! Good job!
> +rep


Thanks, I really like working with the paracord, easy to slip the wire through and a very wide range of colors. Its not obvious in these pictures but the white sleeving has reflective strands in it so at the right angle you get a bit of a glint. GaMbi2004,good call on the red thread for the lacing I think it would look pretty sharp... will have pick some up when I have a chance (money but no time atm), the larger diameter thread was nice to learn with but I agree its a bit bulky and obvious. Also I am not sure what you mean by SFX but if you mean the pattern on the sleeving I had not planned to align them thus the inconsistency on some of them, even if i did it would be all messed up after the first bend in the cable (trying to come up with a way around that problem now...)







.

As a side note I noticed I didn't have the connector plugged in all the way in the picture ... its going in and out a lot for fitting/ modification so I have not been putting it in all the way to avoid repeated stress on the MB.


----------



## nyk20z3

Worked out a good color scheme here that should suit my build rather well -

I will also be using all UV Red power connectors.

The Mobo will get Black/Red





The GPU will get Black/Dark Red





It can be hard to see the difference but the Mobo has slightly brighter Red's on it where the GPU has a darker hue.I think this is the best route to go so the GPU and Mobo both get individual attention but at the same time they wont clash to much.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Worked out a good color scheme here that should suit my build rather well -
> 
> I will also be using all UV Red power connectors.
> 
> The Mobo will get Black/Red
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The GPU will get Black/Dark Red
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It can be hard to see the difference but the Mobo has slightly brighter Red's on it where the GPU has a darker hue.I think this is the best route to go so the GPU and Mobo both get individual attention but at the same time they wont clash to much.


Be sure that the red sleeving will match well. Don't forget that the sleeve will be more front and center than either the GPU or the mobo. You may find that the mismatched reds are too distracting. Another option you could do is to use exclusively black on your PCIe cables and keep the red in the 24 pin or vice versa. Or, using the same color red, just had a strand or 2 of red to the PCIe.

Just a couple of ideas! Good luck with everything!


----------



## nyk20z3

I appreciate your input and will consider those options as well.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyMo*
> 
> Thank you so much - - I really appreciate it!
> 
> I am most interested in the gauge of the PCI-E cables. I'm thinking about just getting the VGA/Molex set: http://www.performance-pcs.com/evga-single-braid-cable-sets/evga-1600w-g2-p2-t2-red-additional-power-supply-cable-set-individually-sleeved.html
> 
> The video card would visually benefit most from the individually sleeved look. I'd like to keep 'em tidy, though, and can't determine if the "small" E22s are the way to go or not... (http://www.performance-pcs.com/e22-cable-comb-4-24-slots-small-clear.html)


Sorry I'm a bit late with it, but something came up. Anyways, from what I can see there should not be a problem depending on what cables you would use. The full kit comes with 4 x 6+2 Pin PCI-E VGA Cables which all are single wires (no doubles) going to an 8 pin connector on the PSU, the diameter with sleeving is 3mm. Then there is 2 x 6+2 Pin + 6 Pin PCI-E VGA cables, which does have some double wires where there are both some thin and some regular wires in use. The thin ones are 2mm in diameter with sleeving and the thick ones are 3mm with sleeving.

I'm also doing a pin chart for anyone wanting to make their own cables for the G2 or P2 PSU. That is if there isn't one already


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Sorry I'm a bit late with it, but something came up. Anyways, from what I can see there should not be a problem depending on what cables you would use. The full kit comes with 4 x 6+2 Pin PCI-E VGA Cables which all are single wires (no doubles) going to an 8 pin connector on the PSU, the diameter with sleeving is 3mm. Then there is 2 x 6+2 Pin + 6 Pin PCI-E VGA cables, which does have some double wires where there are both some thin and some regular wires in use. The thin ones are 2mm in diameter with sleeving and the thick ones are 3mm with sleeving.
> 
> I'm also doing a pin chart for anyone wanting to make their own cables for the G2 or P2 PSU. That is if there isn't one already


I think a pin chart exists in the pin chart info thread.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Sorry I'm a bit late with it, but something came up. Anyways, from what I can see there should not be a problem depending on what cables you would use. The full kit comes with 4 x 6+2 Pin PCI-E VGA Cables which all are single wires (no doubles) going to an 8 pin connector on the PSU, the diameter with sleeving is 3mm. Then there is 2 x 6+2 Pin + 6 Pin PCI-E VGA cables, which does have some double wires where there are both some thin and some regular wires in use. The thin ones are 2mm in diameter with sleeving and the thick ones are 3mm with sleeving.
> 
> I'm also doing a pin chart for anyone wanting to make their own cables for the G2 or P2 PSU. That is if there isn't one already


@Smithcity did this awesome G2 Sleeving Guide. It was a life saver.


----------



## JimmyMo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Sorry I'm a bit late with it, but something came up. Anyways, from what I can see there should not be a problem depending on what cables you would use. The full kit comes with 4 x 6+2 Pin PCI-E VGA Cables which all are single wires (no doubles) going to an 8 pin connector on the PSU, the diameter with sleeving is 3mm. Then there is 2 x 6+2 Pin + 6 Pin PCI-E VGA cables, which does have some double wires where there are both some thin and some regular wires in use. The thin ones are 2mm in diameter with sleeving and the thick ones are 3mm with sleeving.
> 
> I'm also doing a pin chart for anyone wanting to make their own cables for the G2 or P2 PSU. That is if there isn't one already


Thank you SO much! I really appreciate you taking the time to check that out and post it.

I am using a GIGABYTE 980 G1, so I will use two 6+2 PCI-E cables, and it sounds like the "small" E22 combs will work great with the 3mm EVGA sleeved cables.

I will get these ordered from performancepcs.com and then post pics of my build, with details of how the small E22 combs work with the EVGA sleeved replacements! I am at the tidying stage on my build, this will be a nice finishing touch.

Thanks again!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I think a pin chart exists in the pin chart info thread.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> @Smithcity did this awesome G2 Sleeving Guide. It was a life saver.


Then I won't bother making one from what I have. Thanks for the links though


----------



## nyk20z3

Finished up some Sata cables last night with the Wife -

Teleios Red

Love the quality of the sleeve and its easy to work with,I originally had these done in Teleios Black but decided Red would add more pop to the build.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Finished up some Sata cables last night with the Wife -
> 
> Teleios Red
> 
> Love the quality of the sleeve and its easy to work with,I originally had these done in Teleios Black but decided Red would add more pop to the build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice , I'm unfamiliar with the SATA way to do it, does the sleeve stretch enough to go over the ends? Or do you have to do it with the ends off. Any guides here?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Finished up some Sata cables last night with the Wife -
> 
> Teleios Red
> 
> Love the quality of the sleeve and its easy to work with,I originally had these done in Teleios Black but decided Red would add more pop to the build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice , I'm unfamiliar with the SATA way to do it, does the sleeve stretch enough to go over the ends? Or do you have to do it with the ends off. Any guides here?
Click to expand...

You can find lots of good guides by Lutro0 in the "Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions" and "Video Sleeving Guides" topics which are stickied here in the 'Cables and Sleeving' section of this forum, including this one ...


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Nice , I'm unfamiliar with the SATA way to do it, does the sleeve stretch enough to go over the ends? Or do you have to do it with the ends off. Any guides here?


Its easy just try to avoid fraying the edges of the wire as you sleeve it over the sata cable,Stretch the sleeving in both directions for a tight fit and don't over heat the heat shrink.

That's the best advice i can give you.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Its easy just try to avoid fraying the edges of the wire as you sleeve it over the sata cable,Stretch the sleeving in both directions for a tight fit and don't over heat the heat shrink.
> 
> That's the best advice i can give you.


@pez, do you have anything to add to that?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> @pez, do you have anything to add to that?


Crazily I didn't see this until I browsed the thread. Sometimes threads move so fast I just go last page to get rid of the number in my control panel, lol. Good thing I was actually reading.

The Lutro0 video is what I used as a baseline. SATA sleeving is definitely the easier type of sleeving to do.

I feel the most important part to take away from the video is to somewhat sear the edges so they don't fray or split while threading the cable through. As Lutro0 will mention, getting a straight/near-perfect cut, fraying the edges, and then pulling tightly (some prefer to use zip ties for the best look; though I personally haven't used this method) are your key points to follow. I feel I've been a bit short here, but I'd be happy to help with anything specific; though I'm by no means an expert







.


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Crazily I didn't see this until I browsed the thread. Sometimes threads move so fast I just go last page to get rid of the number in my control panel, lol. Good thing I was actually reading.
> 
> The Lutro0 video is what I used as a baseline. SATA sleeving is definitely the easier type of sleeving to do.
> 
> I feel the most important part to take away from the video is to somewhat sear the edges so they don't fray or split while threading the cable through. As Lutro0 will mention, getting a straight/near-perfect cut, fraying the edges, and then pulling tightly (some prefer to use zip ties for the best look; though I personally haven't used this method) are your key points to follow. I feel I've been a bit short here, but I'd be happy to help with anything specific; though I'm by no means an expert
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I tried that with a Lighter and you have to be very meticulous,once or twice i melted too much and it wouldn't slide over the Fat End.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> I tried that with a Lighter and you have to be very meticulous,once or twice i melted too much and it wouldn't slide over the Fat End.


This is true. The best way to avoid this is to keep your flame about 1/4 inch or so away. The closer you get it to the ends, the bigger chance you have of clumping up the plastic-type sleeving.


----------



## kernel G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Its easy just try to avoid fraying the edges of the wire as you sleeve it over the sata cable,Stretch the sleeving in both directions for a tight fit and don't over heat the heat shrink.
> 
> That's the best advice i can give you.


I've also seen recently that Akasa cables, the connector can be carefully disassembled so you can then cut your data cable to length. No problem there with stretching the sleeve.
A tip I can add (in case it's not obvious to some) for my SSD power cable I removed the outside 12V and 3V wires (some cables don't have the 3V) for a nice small symmetrical look. Here's my result:



If I can't find a UV connector, I may just put heatshink over it.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kernel G*
> 
> I've also seen recently that Akasa cables, the connector can be carefully disassembled so you can then cut your data cable to length. No problem there with stretching the sleeve.


I've attempted this on a good dozen Akasa Pro-Slim cables. All of them no longer work.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kernel G*
> 
> I've also seen recently that Akasa cables, the connector can be carefully disassembled so you can then cut your data cable to length. No problem there with stretching the sleeve.
> 
> 
> 
> I've attempted this on a good dozen Akasa Pro-Slim cables. All of them no longer work.
Click to expand...

Yep, I tried on just one and was a big fail. I've also seen it mentioned elsewhere which is why I gave it a go, but I figure that must have been with a different cable, perhaps an older SATA II version. The SATA 3.0 cable I tried it didn't work for me.


----------



## kernel G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I've attempted this on a good dozen Akasa Pro-Slim cables. All of them no longer work.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yep, I tried on just one and was a big fail. I've also seen it mentioned elsewhere which is why I gave it a go, but I figure that must have been with a different cable, perhaps an older SATA II version. The SATA 3.0 cable I tried it didn't work for me.


Good to know, I'll stick with my current cables! As Ms. Emily Litilla use to say: "Nevermind!"


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I've attempted this on a good dozen Akasa Pro-Slim cables. All of them no longer work.


H'm. All this takes us back to longroadtrip's tutorial in this thread from Jan, 2014.

This is certainly not an easy mod and I, too, have had a number of failures with it. But I've also had enough cables that are still working to make it worth while to attempt.

The connection you have to make has to be a strong and even clamp that is not going to bend the jaws as it grips. I get the best results using a vice grip with a double up cut piece of cable to protect the plastic covers. I also restrict the mod to the motherboard end of the cable so that the original connection takes the strain of any bending at the device end of the cable.

It also helps if you can rig up some kind of device to test all 7 lines in the cable. I've still got some work to get this one running properly.


----------



## JimmyMo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Sorry I'm a bit late with it, but something came up. Anyways, from what I can see there should not be a problem depending on what cables you would use. The full kit comes with 4 x 6+2 Pin PCI-E VGA Cables which all are single wires (no doubles) going to an 8 pin connector on the PSU, the diameter with sleeving is 3mm. Then there is 2 x 6+2 Pin + 6 Pin PCI-E VGA cables, which does have some double wires where there are both some thin and some regular wires in use. The thin ones are 2mm in diameter with sleeving and the thick ones are 3mm with sleeving.
> 
> I'm also doing a pin chart for anyone wanting to make their own cables for the G2 or P2 PSU. That is if there isn't one already


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyMo*
> 
> Thank you SO much! I really appreciate you taking the time to check that out and post it.
> 
> I am using a GIGABYTE 980 G1, so I will use two 6+2 PCI-E cables, and it sounds like the "small" E22 combs will work great with the 3mm EVGA sleeved cables.
> 
> I will get these ordered from performancepcs.com and then post pics of my build, with details of how the small E22 combs work with the EVGA sleeved replacements! I am at the tidying stage on my build, this will be a nice finishing touch.
> 
> Thanks again!


*Update, for those that are interested - -
*

Received the EVGA P2 sleeved set for VGA and Molex. (http://www.performance-pcs.com/evga-single-braid-cable-sets/evga-1600w-g2-p2-t2-red-additional-power-supply-cable-set-individually-sleeved.html)

Also received the E22 "small" size combs. (http://www.performance-pcs.com/e22-cable-comb-4-24-slots-small-clear.html)

*
Even the E22 "small" comb size is not small enough to firmly hold the very fine sleeving that EVGA is using.*

It will do, and I can keep my cables orderly, but rather than "clipping on" to the sleeved cable, it will be simply "guiding" the sleeved cables.

Should be okay - - my computer case is not a dynamic environment (if it ever is, I have larger problems!), and once in place, things should stay tidy.

Will update again later after installation.

-jm


----------



## sinnedone

So guys I need a little help with my next sleeving project. I am going to needing some supplies and will be using paracord.

I was planning on using Lutros paracord sleeving and wanted to know if mainframe customs is the only place to get it?

I also need those 2 pin led plugs and wanted to know ehre I could find them in male/female with pins?

I also need maybe a crimper and some pcie plugs and pins for the 24 and 8 pin as well. Performance pcs is closest to me but wanted to know if I should look elsewhere for better prices. Thanks all.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> So guys I need a little help with my next sleeving project. I am going to needing some supplies and will be using paracord.
> 
> I was planning on using Lutros paracord sleeving and wanted to know if mainframe customs is the only place to get it?
> 
> I also need those 2 pin led plugs and wanted to know ehre I could find them in male/female with pins?
> 
> I also need maybe a crimper and some pcie plugs and pins for the 24 and 8 pin as well. Performance pcs is closest to me but wanted to know if I should look elsewhere for better prices. Thanks all.


you can try icemodz.com .Their prices are really good also http://www.ensourced.net for paracord sleeving .


----------



## jfro63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> So guys I need a little help with my next sleeving project. I am going to needing some supplies and will be using paracord.
> 
> I was planning on using Lutros paracord sleeving and wanted to know if mainframe customs is the only place to get it?
> 
> I also need those 2 pin led plugs and wanted to know ehre I could find them in male/female with pins?
> 
> I also need maybe a crimper and some pcie plugs and pins for the 24 and 8 pin as well. Performance pcs is closest to me but wanted to know if I should look elsewhere for better prices. Thanks all.


I just bought some Paracord sleeving through Ultimate Personal Computers.

http://ultimatepersonalcomputers.com/store/


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> you can try icemodz.com .Their prices are really good also http://www.ensourced.net for paracord sleeving .


Thank you.









It looks like their paracord section does not seem to be finished on their website.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfro63*
> 
> I just bought some Paracord sleeving through Ultimate Personal Computers.
> 
> http://ultimatepersonalcomputers.com/store/


Thank you.









UNfortunately it looks like the color I'm looking for they do not have.

Any other places?


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like their paracord section does not seem to be finished on their website.
> Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UNfortunately it looks like the color I'm looking for they do not have.
> 
> Any other places?


I've never heard
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfro63*
> 
> I just bought some Paracord sleeving through Ultimate Personal Computers.
> 
> http://ultimatepersonalcomputers.com/store/


I've never heard of ultimate before. Where are they based out of? Any real examples of their work?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I've never heard of ultimate before. Where are they based out of? Any real examples of their work?


Adam was showing some of their work.


----------



## Ramzinho

i've bought 550 paracord to sleeve my EVGA 850W psu, i found out that buying enough combs will cost as much as the paracord itself









any idea on how to source that for a cheaper than 30$~40$ for the pieces i need?


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i've bought 550 paracord to sleeve my EVGA 850W psu, i found out that buying enough combs will cost as much as the paracord itself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any idea on how to source that for a cheaper than 30$~40$ for the pieces i need?


Stitch them. I originally stitched mine but ended up changing sleeve pattern and use combs the second time around. It's not that difficult, just a little time consuming. And it only costs the price of a needle and thread


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Stitch them. I originally stitched mine but ended up changing sleeve pattern and use combs the second time around. It's not that difficult, just a little time consuming. And it only costs the price of a needle and thread


i've considered that. but thing is they dont look as clean as it should be.. unless you can provide a good video


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i've bought 550 paracord to sleeve my EVGA 850W psu, i found out that buying enough combs will cost as much as the paracord itself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any idea on how to source that for a cheaper than 30$~40$ for the pieces i need?


Would a pack of combs from IceModz be enough for whatever you are doing?

http://www.icemodz.com/#!/Cable-Management/c/5474654/offset=0&sort=normal

A pack includes:
2x 24pin
2x16pin
2x14pin
2x12pin
2x8pin
2x6pin
2x4pin

& I believe they all come w/ free shipping also.


----------



## crebuli

I'm making some cables from scratch right now and my psu (strider 550w gold) has two 8 pin pcie connections. However, my graphics card only requires two 6 pins.
My question is about the two pins that would normally be left floating off to the side, can I just leave these two cable runs empty? I feel as though it should be ok since there would not actually be a connection anyway, but I'm worried the PSU might have some kind of way to trip itself from running if it thinks the user has plugged in the wrong connections?


----------



## lowfat

Yes that is fine.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Would a pack of combs from IceModz be enough for whatever you are doing?
> 
> http://www.icemodz.com/#!/Cable-Management/c/5474654/offset=0&sort=normal
> 
> A pack includes:
> 2x 24pin
> 2x16pin
> 2x14pin
> 2x12pin
> 2x8pin
> 2x6pin
> 2x4pin
> 
> & I believe they all come w/ free shipping also.


thanks mate.. i know form your thread replies you are my type of a person


----------



## jfro63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i've bought 550 paracord to sleeve my EVGA 850W psu, i found out that buying enough combs will cost as much as the paracord itself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any idea on how to source that for a cheaper than 30$~40$ for the pieces i need?


http://ultimatepersonalcomputers.com/product-category/upc-cable-combs/


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crebuli*
> 
> I'm making some cables from scratch right now and my psu (strider 550w gold) has two 8 pin pcie connections. However, my graphics card only requires two 6 pins.
> My question is about the two pins that would normally be left floating off to the side, can I just leave these two cable runs empty? I feel as though it should be ok since there would not actually be a connection anyway, but I'm worried the PSU might have some kind of way to trip itself from running if it thinks the user has plugged in the wrong connections?


I have the strider gold 750,do you know where I can find the pin out?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> I have the strider gold 750,do you know where I can find the pin out?


They are 1:1 cables. You really don't need a pinout. Pin 1 on one end of the cable goes to pin 1 on the other. Pin 2 goes to pin 2. Etc.


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> They are 1:1 cables. You really don't need a pinout. Pin 1 on one end of the cable goes to pin 1 on the other. Pin 2 goes to pin 2. Etc.


Damn I didn't think it would be that easy.


----------



## SiberianGhost

I have a question regarding the diameter of the paracors 550. my psu (corsair CX750M) has on the 24-pin connector a double wired cable, I wonder if the paracord 550 has sufficient thickness to fit inside the double wire without having to make any extra modification.


----------



## lmarklar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SiberianGhost*
> 
> I have a question regarding the diameter of the paracors 550. my psu (corsair CX750M) has on the 24-pin connector a double wired cable, I wonder if the paracord 550 has sufficient thickness to fit inside the double wire without having to make any extra modification.


My EVGA 1000w G1 has some dual lines on it, they both fit inside 550 cord just fine. Both wires were 18ga, Not sure if two 16ga would fit, just have to try. Tape up the pin with a bit of electrical tape, scrunch the cord up and you'll be surprised at what it will fit over!


----------



## SiberianGhost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lmarklar*
> 
> My EVGA 1000w G1 has some dual lines on it, they both fit inside 550 cord just fine. Both wires were 18ga, Not sure if two 16ga would fit, just have to try. Tape up the pin with a bit of electrical tape, scrunch the cord up and you'll be surprised at what it will fit over!


Thank you!

I'll buy some of paracord to test if fits and post the results


----------



## rgrwng

Started redoing my Power Supply today.



trying heatshrinkless this time. how's this look?


----------



## guitarhero23

Much better heatshrinkless.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Hey question, which PSU is easier to sleeve the Cooler Master V1000 or EVGA SuperNOVA 1000W?

Thanks


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Hey question, which PSU is easier to sleeve the Cooler Master V1000 or EVGA SuperNOVA 1000W?
> 
> Thanks


If you are sleeving the cables yourself and not making new ones, then I would say the V1000. It doesn't have any sleeving from the factory so it's easy to do one and one cable, and all the cables are black so you get consistency of the shading that shows through the sleeving (the G2 and P2 comes with red PCI-E cables and connectors). If you want pre sleeved cables in a single colour though then I would say the P2 since EVGA has a kit for sale with sleeved cables. just my


----------



## JimmyMo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyMo*
> 
> *Update, for those that are interested - -
> *
> 
> Received the EVGA P2 sleeved set for VGA and Molex. (http://www.performance-pcs.com/evga-single-braid-cable-sets/evga-1600w-g2-p2-t2-red-additional-power-supply-cable-set-individually-sleeved.html)
> 
> Also received the E22 "small" size combs. (http://www.performance-pcs.com/e22-cable-comb-4-24-slots-small-clear.html)
> 
> *
> Even the E22 "small" comb size is not small enough to firmly hold the very fine sleeving that EVGA is using.*
> 
> It will do, and I can keep my cables orderly, but rather than "clipping on" to the sleeved cable, it will be simply "guiding" the sleeved cables.
> 
> Should be okay - - my computer case is not a dynamic environment (if it ever is, I have larger problems!), and once in place, things should stay tidy.
> 
> Will update again later after installation.
> 
> -jm


*This weekend I installed the pre-made EVGA individually sleeved P2 cables for my video card, using the E22 "small" size transparent combs, as described earlier (above)
*

The small combs don't fit the EVGA sleeving very tightly, but they hold it well enough when there is some tension on the cables themselves.

I won't be winning a LAN mod competition anytime soon with this quick stock mod, but it looks nice enough for my purposes. MUCH better than the beefy, stiff VGA power supply cable that came with the EVGA P2.

I'd recommend different combs if you are getting the P2 pre-sleeved replacements, though. Maybe the completely enclosed ones that require you to take apart the connector?










*EDIT: Oh, here's the before, just in case anyone wants to compare. Made a few other changes, too, like adding in the GPU brace, and changing the CPU cooler fans.
*






And, here's the required back of the motherboard view to show that chaos still rules!



Ahhhhhhh...!!!


----------



## guitarhero23

Too thin for my liking! Nice work though.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> If you are sleeving the cables yourself and not making new ones, then I would say the V1000. It doesn't have any sleeving from the factory so it's easy to do one and one cable, and all the cables are black so you get consistency of the shading that shows through the sleeving (the G2 and P2 comes with red PCI-E cables and connectors). If you want pre sleeved cables in a single colour though then I would say the P2 since EVGA has a kit for sale with sleeved cables. just my


Thanks, I was gonna make new cables to fit & sleeve them myself

With the EVGA one can you get new connectors for the PSU end instead of using the stupid red ones?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Thanks, I was gonna make new cables to fit & sleeve them myself
> 
> With the EVGA one can you get new connectors for the PSU end instead of using the stupid red ones?


They look to be regular 8 pin PCI-e connectors at the PSU end as well. If you get the P2 or G2 for a good price then they are worth it, but the V1000 is as good as the G2 if not better. You would also save some cash on the extra connectors and and you wouldn't get a red shade shining through the PCI-e sleeving. Both are stellar PSUs so I would still recommend the V1000 for sleeving. If youre just making the cables from the bottom up then that's another question and either or would work fine.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> They look to be regular 8 pin PCI-e connectors at the PSU end as well. If you get the P2 or G2 for a good price then they are worth it, but the V1000 is as good as the G2 if not better. You would also save some cash on the extra connectors and and you wouldn't get a red shade shining through the PCI-e sleeving. Both are stellar PSUs so I would still recommend the V1000 for sleeving. If youre just making the cables from the bottom up then that's another question and either or would work fine.


Cool thanks, the V1000 is what I'm leaning toward but atm I'm still not sure

Thought I would ask about sleeving before I bought one tho, didnt wanna buy it and then be like "well cant sleeve this"


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> Cool thanks, the V1000 is what I'm leaning toward but atm I'm still not sure
> 
> Thought I would ask about sleeving before I bought one tho, didnt wanna buy it and then be like "well cant sleeve this"


I have no direct experience with the v1000 myself, but the choice was between the v1000, the G2 or the P2 when I bought my P2. All of them test great from reputable sources, and either or would serve you quite well as a PSU. Hopefully someone else in here has some experience sleeving the v1000 and can tell you more about that (I know it's been a regular unit to use in a lot of fancy builds).


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I have no direct experience with the v1000 myself, but the choice was between the v1000, the G2 or the P2 when I bought my P2. All of them test great from reputable sources, and either or would serve you quite well as a PSU. Hopefully someone else in here has some experience sleeving the v1000 and can tell you more about that (I know it's been a regular unit to use in a lot of fancy builds).


I am watching too , i will most likely be getting the V1000 because it is the only good PSU that is 170mm long , instead of the usual 190mm , and it is an excellent PSU anyway , my next choice is the Seasonic 1000XP3 if i was to go to 190mm.

So yes i hope we see someone with experience chime in soon.


----------



## fantasticgcg

Hi guys is there a good sleeving guide for fans on this site?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Search YouTube for Lutro0's sleeving tutorials. They will be your best friend! Also, the first post of this thread has a lot of helpful info on it.


----------



## Ramzinho

OK.. i've a friend who has a 3D printer. does anybody know or have the design of the cable combs? it would be like 80% cheaper for me to 3D print them


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> OK.. i've a friend who has a 3D printer. does anybody know or have the design of the cable combs? it would be like 80% cheaper for me to 3D print them


Perhaps this would help ...


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Perhaps this would help ...


did you just take a photo of that?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> did you just take a photo of that?


I took those pics a while back for someone else who asked for measurements. IIRC they were attempting to cut their own from acrylic with a laser cutter.


----------



## Ramzinho

that's too expensive.. i believe 3D printing is way easier


----------



## soad666p

http://www.yeggi.com/q/cable+comb/?s=txshould help


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I took those pics a while back for someone else who asked for measurements. IIRC they were attempting to cut their own from acrylic with a laser cutter.


That is pretty much amazing btw.. if you ever have time to measure wall thickness let me know how much it is.. thanks a lot.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soad666p*
> 
> http://www.yeggi.com/q/cable+comb/?s=txshould help


I love you man


----------



## charliebrown

will this ratchet crimping tool work for atx pins i got off amazon for $22


----------



## yoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> 
> 
> will this ratchet crimping tool work for atx pins i got off amazon for $22


man ... im tempted to buy one of those "cheap" ones too .. been waiting for @lutro0 and Mainframecustoms to put them up in stock ... im now 3 weeks behind a customer build because of the wait


----------



## charliebrown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoi*
> 
> man ... im tempted to buy one of those "cheap" ones too .. been waiting for @lutro0 and Mainframecustoms to put them up in stock ... im now 3 weeks behind a customer build because of the wait


mine will be here tomorrow ill post back to let you know how good it is from the reviews it seem to work very well


----------



## jfro63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> 
> 
> will this ratchet crimping tool work for atx pins i got off amazon for $22


I have them they work fine..


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfro63*
> 
> I have them they work fine..


Got a close up photo showing the crimp?


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfro63*
> 
> I have them they work fine..


Sweet i got one of those from PPC's other day


----------



## soad666p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I love you man


np i hope to print a load of them once i get my 3d printer


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

My







on crimpers ...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The first crimper I bought was the 'FrozenCPU Molex Crimping Tool' (the one on the left) because it had good reviews on their site and looked to me a lot like the MDPC crimper which I had seen recommended. As I found out the hard way it tends to fold the tabs overlapping each other instead of making a good even crimp where both tabs bite into the wire and insulation. I guess if I didn't already know any better I might have thought it worked just fine, but I did know better. I gave up on it early on and bought an MDPC crimper (middle) along with pin removers and sleeve from Nils and it was beautiful. Perfect crimps every time. It also just works a LOT better in how it ratchets closed and releases.
> 
> Later on I bought Lutro0's crimper too (right) because I was going to give his thicker 16ga cable a go, but haven't got around to doing much with it yet. I still have a ton of 18ga cable on spools still and it seems to be easier to keep straight with less training than how the cable from Lutro0 came wrapped up off the spool with a sharp bend every 20cm or so I'll have to deal with straightening out. That said I have done a few crimps with Lutro0's crimper and they likewise were absolutely perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> Anywho, for a much better explanation of what makes a good crimper, I'll let Lutro0 explain it to you (from the FAQ's stickied to this sleeving forum)...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> _Welcome to Lutro0's Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions_
> [...]
> 
> Which Crimpers & Pins Do I Buy?
> - What crimpers & pins to use and the reason why they are chosen.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Click to Expand
> 
> 
> 
> To understand the following information you need to understand that not all crimpers are created equally. Molex has a chart in which it defines what is a good crimp and what is a bad crimp in its own standards - but from an experienced sleevers point of view there is only one good crimp, and that is the bite crimp.
> 
> The bite crimp is defined by crimping the end pins or the stress relief into the insulation essentially locking in the terminal a little more. Furthermore the definition of a good crimp is the tool being able to crimp the inside wings well, which is where the terminal will make most of its contact with the wire allowing flow of electricity.
> 
> Here is a small sample of tools that I have used a ton of time testing, this is just a small portion as there is no need to show you all of them. You will notice the markings on the tools, this will be used to reference the picture of the crimps that they can produce. The marks go from 0 - 7 marks. Most notably the 0 mark is the MDPC Crimping tool, and the 2 mark with LC before it is the LC ATX Ratchet Crimper.
> 
> 
> 
> So you see there is a ton of options when it comes to crimpers, the prices range from $20 - $80.
> 
> Now lets take a look at the crimps they can produce, please match them up to the marks on the crimper to the marks on the wire.
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice many flaws in the wires and that the wire gauge itself is a custom made 16AWG wire that Lutro0 Customs will be carrying so that people can sleeve with 16AWG wire and thus benefit from the decreased resistance, however I will also have an 18AWG custom wire that will be available as well.
> 
> To explain the crimps we will go down the list starting with the 0 mark.
> 
> 0 Mark: This crimp is right on the mark. You will notice that it has a slight bite and does not crush the wire and the inner wings have a good hold on the actual metal of the wire - this is an example of a good crimp.
> 1 Mark: This is an example of a crushed stress relief section as well as its over lapping making it very sub par.
> 2 Mark: This crimp is also right on the mark. Everything you want from a clean crimp is shown on that crimp - this is also the LC ATX Ratchet Crimper.
> 3 Mark: This crimp not only has bitten so much into the connector but it has actually broke into the insulation and created a bump in the insulation. While this is a strong crimp it creates a mess to work with and degrades the quality and durability of the crimp. It has also crushed the wire wings weakening the overall crimp.
> 4 Mark: This is a pure example of a bad crimp - over lapping wings and a crushed wire insulation.
> 5 Mark: This crimp has so much force that it forced the stress relief wings out of order and totally crushed the insulation weakening the crimp point - I even have to straighten out the pin as it made a curve in it.
> 6 Mark: This is another example of an overlapping crimp with crushed insulation.
> 7 Mark: This crimper has so much force that it bulged the wire and the inside wire back while crushing the top.
> 
> So from these photos we can determine that Mark 0 and Mark 2 Have the best crimps!
> 
> But this is no surprise but I will let the photos explain.
> 
> 
> 
> These crimpers are both the same models but with different handles. I have contacted the company who makes them and asked them to make the crimp pressure just a tad bit less so that a thicker wire gauge could be used ( this is due to my custom line of sleeving wire that will improve cable management and training )and the slight variation can be seen in a side by side comparison of the crimps.
> 
> I will also say that if you live closer to Germany please consider getting the tool from MDPC-X, The store is owned by a wonderful man names Nils - he will go the extra mile to help you get the supplies you need.
> 
> 
> 
> You will see that the LC ATX Ratchet Crimper hugs and bites the wire just a tiny bit gentler. However in all honesty the difference is minimal and both tools would would all the well on the custom wire. However the price difference is what makes the LC ATX Ratchet Crimper all that much more sweeter.
> 
> So now that you see what the two available tools can do (the Han Long [HT-225D] tool is the same at both Performance PCs and FrozenCPU) lets talk a moment about pins before we continue.
> 
> Most terminals that are sold are non-OEM terminals , this means that a manufacturer other then Molex has made them and sold them to our online shops. The problem with this is that they decided it would be a good idea to make the wings that hold the wire smaller and then sell the longer winged pins as "double wire" pins.
> 
> Any experienced sleever will tell you that these terminals "shorter wings" are garbage as they don't allow the proper bite into the wire to hold and make a strong crimp.
> 
> So what we can take away from this is that only the original Molex brand terminals should be bought even if you are just using the hans long [HT-225D] crimper.
> 
> These are original Molex terminals . You will note that they have longer wings on them. These are important as it allows the crimp to have extra hold and contact to the wire.
> 
> Most non-molex or non-oem terminals have very short wings and are never recommended for your crimp jobs.
> 
> Here is the part number for those pins -a reel is a string of pins while a bag is pins not on a reel- :
> _Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Female terminals_ - 39-00-0038 (Reel)
> _Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Female terminals_ - 39-00-0039 (Bag)
> _Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Male terminals_ - 39-00-0040 (Reel) (These are the pins used for making an extension)
> _Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Male terminals_ - 39-00-0041 (Bag) (These are the pins used for making an extension)
> 
> A good collection of all of these terminals and speciality ones can be found here: http://lutro0-customs.com/collections/terminals
> 
> From top to bottom: (MDPC Crimper, Hans Long Crimper [HT-225D], SN-28B Crimper)
> 
> *And finally, here is a list of crimpers that should be considered for purchase:*
> 
> *Han Long [HT-225D]* _For a couple crimps or a small project (not recommended for a full set because of the way it crimps the "wings")_ : http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1277
> Note: these can be found at many different mod shops including, FrozenCPU, Performance-pcs and others.
> 
> *SN-28B Crimper* _This crimper has potential, but even at the lowest setting crushes the wire too much for my personal liking. However there is different models (according to the color of the handle and apparently the date it was made) that seem to work better then the others with some adjustment to the "teeth". With those flaws and never knowing if you will get a tool that can be fixed to work I find IMO that this is a poor option although it does have potential to be a good crimper._
> 
> *MDPC Crimper* _A great crimper at a higher price (this will produce perfect crimps all the time that will hold, also it comes with pins):_ http://de.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-crimping/mdpc-crimpzange.htm
> Note: This is the german site and it is sold on the international site but his shop times are limited[/I]
> 
> *Lutro0 Customs Crimper* _The same as the MDPC Crimper but at a lower price and is USA based. http://lutro0-customs.com/products/custom-sleeved-12-24pin-extension_
> 
> *Molex Brand Ratchet Crimper* _This may be the best tool as its made by Molex, but the price is way out of range for most people:_ http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=97M9440&CMP=AFC-GB100000001
> 
> 
> [...]
Click to expand...


----------



## lmarklar

Just a thought, but if you are in a rush you can also run down to Napa and buy Weather Pack crimpers. They are pretty much the exact same crimp without the ratchet and a bit more expensive, but you can probably find them locally, and they do multiple sizes.


That said.... ratcheting crimpers are def the best route to go if you're not used to crimping. They will make sure your crimp is the proper tightness, those ears are pretty easy to break off if you're not careful.


----------



## Lutro0

I have to apologize for not answering any questions lately, still healing from the back surgery and such. But its humbling to see everyone pitching in and helping each other. Keep up the good work guys!


----------



## Timstuff

I'm a little confused... I'm at MAINFrame Customs looking at the LC Coreless Paracord, and the "Foliage Green" looks like a dark gray. If it is actually more of a dark gray, it'd look nice in the color arrangement I want to go with for my cables (closer to what I'm after than the "silver gray," at least), but then again I know photographs can be misleading when it comes to exact color. If it really is just a dull green, I may just go for blue and black for my cables.



My PC is pretty much going to be all black and blue with a little gray, and I think something like this would look sharp.



Also, does anyone know if black paracord is going to be back in stock any time soon at MAINFrame Customs?


----------



## charliebrown

so got the ratchet from amazon today its doing a awesome job at crimping im doing charcoal grey,yellow,and black ill post pics when im done

get well lutroo


----------



## dejahboi

My first tackle at sleeving. It doesn't look too bad


----------



## yoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> so got the ratchet from amazon today its doing a awesome job at crimping im doing charcoal grey,yellow,and black ill post pics when im done
> 
> get well lutroo


what u mean about "get well lutro0" ... is he sick ? wow . i didnt knew that . maybe that was the reason for the crimper to be out of stock too long ?

.,. now i feel bad for bothering them over at facebook and asking publicly about the crimper here >.>

~Edit~

lol just read up there about the surgery


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I have to apologize for not answering any questions lately, still healing from the back surgery and such. But its humbling to see everyone pitching in and helping each other. Keep up the good work guys!


Didn't realize you had had surgery; here's to a speedy recovery!


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I have to apologize for not answering any questions lately, still healing from the back surgery and such. But its humbling to see everyone pitching in and helping each other. Keep up the good work guys!


i'm just starting the sleeving hobby but not new to Ocn or Your youtube channel. ... i didn't know you are having issues lutroo... Get well soon... Wishing you the best...


----------



## nyk20z3

Some Teleios sleeving arrived,still up in the air if i want to sleeve my PSU myself or not.If so i would need at least another $100 in supplies which would cost less to have them custom sleeved anyway.I know i can do it but i also know its a pain in the ass using the heat shrink less method.

But besides that these are the colors i chose to match a Asus 980 Matrix and Asus Maximus Gene VI mobo.


----------



## Timstuff

I'm probably going to sleeve my XFX XXX Edition 850 Watt PSU, although there's something I wanted some advice on. It has a molded "face plate" so it essentially has two openings for the non-modular motherboard cables to exit through. In the event that I have to widen the opening, I will have to cut both the "face plate" and the the chassis to widen up the opening. Should I put rubber U channel over each part, or should I try to find a way to cover the cuts on both at the same time? Am I over thinking this?


----------



## Timstuff

And another question: what's the general opinion regarding the $12 spin removal toolkit that PerformancePC's sells? Will it get the job done, or am I better off spending more on a more expensive set of tools?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timstuff*
> 
> And another question: what's the general opinion regarding the $12 spin removal toolkit that PerformancePC's sells? Will it get the job done, or am I better off spending more on a more expensive set of tools?


buy a pack of staples instead. I find them easier to use. And I'd you break them you have a 100 more.


----------



## guitarhero23

Said to myself "i dont need a stupid molex pin removal tool, these staples i have will be fine. Well 25 minutes later and only 1 pf 2 sides removed i had ordered the proper tool haha


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Said to myself "i dont need a stupid molex pin removal tool, these staples i have will be fine. Well 25 minutes later and only 1 pf 2 sides removed i had ordered the proper tool haha


It isn't very efficient unless you have TONS of practice like @lowfat.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> It isn't very efficient unless you have TONS of practice like @lowfat.


I think it's the opposite. Extractor tool needs more practice before you get proficient at it. Staples just work (provided they are filed down to the right width).

I struggled for a while even with the official Molex-brand extractor before being able to remove pins quickly. Especially on cheap connectors that don't follow the specification you can end up just digging the wings in further.

Now it seems to take me between 3 and 10 seconds per pin according to 



.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I think it's the opposite. Extractor tool needs more practice before you get proficient at it. Staples just work (provided they are filed down to the right width).
> 
> I struggled for a while even with the official Molex-brand extractor before being able to remove pins quickly. *Especially on cheap connectors that don't follow the specification you can end up just digging the wings in further*.
> 
> Now it seems to take me between 3 and 10 seconds per pin according to
> 
> 
> 
> .


EVGA's connectors are terrible no matter what tool I use. I couldn't get the staple trick to work and bent the crap out of my extractor tool. You're another sleever with a lot of experience. I'll just have to give the staple trick another try if I decide to do more sleeving.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> EVGA's connectors are terrible no matter what tool I use. I couldn't get the staple trick to work and bent the crap out of my extractor tool. You're another sleever with a lot of experience. I'll just have to give the staple trick another try if I decide to do more sleeving.


EVGA connector housing are not so bad, depending which OEM









You need to understand that connectors that are made in the factory, their QA test is to put tension on the wires to check they won't fall out.

That makes the wings of the pin (black) dig into the nylon housing (brown). So the pin is stuck inside and the tool nor staples won't work well. Check my great drawing:



So factory cables can be trickier to depin, but the solution is simple. First push the pin deeper into the connector (upwards on my drawing), that will release the wings from the plastic and then the extractor tool can flatten the wings better.

Push and wiggle the pin to make sure it's loose, the insert extractor tool, push and wiggle again....

and only after that should you start pulling on the wire.


----------



## morencyam

That is actually the process I use when I depin at all, stuck or not. I always push the pin further into the housing first, then push the tool in and the pin pops right out. But my Corsair AX850 was a breeze to depin.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Said to myself "i dont need a stupid molex pin removal tool, these staples i have will be fine. Well 25 minutes later and only 1 pf 2 sides removed i had ordered the proper tool haha


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> It isn't very efficient unless you have TONS of practice like @lowfat.


that's what i keep telling the guys... yes it's cheap to use heavy duty stables but it's not time efficient for new noobs like me







... regarding that ... i'll be doing two PSUs with all the cables.. any tips on cheap affordable kits? preferable from amazon so i can ship everything once.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> EVGA connector housing are not so bad, depending which OEM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You need to understand that connectors that are made in the factory, *their QA test is to put tension on the wires to check they won't fall out.*
> 
> That makes the wings of the pin (black) dig into the nylon housing (brown). So the pin is stuck inside and the tool nor staples won't work well. Check my great drawing:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So factory cables can be trickier to depin, but the solution is simple. First push the pin deeper into the connector (upwards on my drawing), that will release the wings from the plastic and then the extractor tool can flatten the wings better.
> 
> Push and wiggle the pin to make sure it's loose, the insert extractor tool, push and wiggle again....
> 
> and only after that should you start pulling on the wire.


I definitely prefer that they don't fall out and sure enough they don't move a lot of the time. I just keep pushing the wire in and wiggling it and then use the removal tool.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Icemodz in Iceland has sleeving including some stock of MDPC sleeve:


I've been watching his stock levels of "MDPC" and it seems he is getting new sleeve quite regularly. Anyone who has ordered from him can confirm it's really MDPC? I'm curious where he is getting it of course.

Any gossip for an otherwise dull Friday afternoon?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Said to myself "i dont need a stupid molex pin removal tool, these staples i have will be fine. Well 25 minutes later and only 1 pf 2 sides removed i had ordered the proper tool haha


Try using 2 staples stuck together instead of just one. Or better yet use a heavy duty staple. Pin extractors are IMO terrible. With staples you can do one side at a time which makes it easy. You can't do this w/ the extractors. You also can't push on the front of the pin w/ the extractor.

Wow. Google is awesome. I didn't have the link saved but googling 'lowfat staple depin' worked.








http://www.overclock.net/t/1287144/100-complete-lowfats-big-lian-li-motm-jan-2015/560_20#post_21496058
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I've been watching his stock levels of "MDPC" and it seems he is getting new sleeve quite regularly. Anyone who has ordered from him can confirm it's really MDPC? I'm curious where he is getting it of course.


I have some on order. Grand Bleu so it will be pretty easy for me to tell if it is real or not. Should be here in a couple of days hopefully.


----------



## Ramzinho

is this a good crimper: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JLN93S/ref=s9_psimh_gw_p469_d0_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=12WAD4NFT66KSJCNG94Y&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970559082&pf_rd_i=desktop


----------



## Timstuff

I was able to get the staple trick to work, but it was very slow and painful on my thumbs. With enough practice I could probably get it to work consistently, although I feel like i'd be better off with a tool. And I'm going to need a tool for getting the 4-pin molex cables out, anyway.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> is this a good crimper: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JLN93S/ref=s9_psimh_gw_p469_d0_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=12WAD4NFT66KSJCNG94Y&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970559082&pf_rd_i=desktop


It's okay, if you can't get the MDPC/Lutro0 crimper. Someone else mentioned it a couple pages ago

http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions "Which crimper and pins should I buy"


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It's okay, if you can't get the MDPC/Lutro0 crimper. Someone else mentioned it a couple pages ago
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions "Which crimper and pins should I buy"


50 vs 23... moeny is an issue for me mate.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> 50 vs 23... moeny is an issue for me mate.


Basically the only difference is that the crimper ends are milled down to create indent so that it holds the pin and I think the tension is adjusted. As long as you can hold the pin in place another crimper will work, it will just be a little bit more tedious.


----------



## lowfat

@WiSK I just got my Icemodz order. The Grand Bleu definitely is MDPC-X.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> @WiSK I just got my Icemodz order. The Grand Bleu definitely is MDPC-X.


So where is he getting it? You think Nils has dumped his remaining stock somewhere?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> 
> 
> will this ratchet crimping tool work for atx pins i got off amazon for $22


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfro63*
> 
> I have them they work fine..


can you guys show us how the crimping looks like ?


----------



## charliebrown

Will do when I get home


----------



## lmarklar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timstuff*
> 
> I was able to get the staple trick to work, but it was very slow and painful on my thumbs. With enough practice I could probably get it to work consistently, although I feel like i'd be better off with a tool. And I'm going to need a tool for getting the 4-pin molex cables out, anyway.


Use a small pair of needle nose to grab the staple with, it hurts quite a bit less that way









For the molex all you need is a ink pen and a set of drill bits. I found the first bit (can't remember size) that was one size larger than the ID of the ink tube. Ran it in a couple of times and it fit perfectly over the pins without forcing it. If you need I can find the correct size bit and let you know.


----------



## Ramzinho

For you guys who has the Lutroo / MDPC atx removal tool. can you measure the pin thickness and the spacing between the pins? i might be able to make mine if i get the dimensions.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> For you guys who has the Lutroo / MDPC atx removal tool. can you measure the pin thickness and the spacing between the pins? i might be able to make mine if i get the dimensions.


I have quite a few atx pin removal tools and all have similar measurements to the Molex Minifit Jr 11-03-0044 (MDPC/Lutro0).


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I have quite a few atx pin removal tools and all have similar measurements to the Molex Minifit Jr 11-03-0044 (MDPC/Lutro0).


by the end of my build i think u will have like 1000 rep from me mate







lol

can u point me out to amazon links for the test gauge stuff


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

You'll find pretty much all the links & info we have to amazon & elsewhere in the air pressure leak test thread.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1534282/how-to-correctly-leak-test-your-loop-101/
I'd think that you would be able to find similar local to you for less than international shipping.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You'll find pretty much all the links & info we have to amazon & elsewhere in the air pressure leak test thread.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1534282/how-to-correctly-leak-test-your-loop-101/
> I'd think that you would be able to find similar local to you for less than international shipping.


i dont think i can find them locally easily







....


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> by the end of my build i think u will have like 1000 rep from me mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


I'm astonished that @Unicr0nhunter doesn't have a few thousand by now. I see him popping up everywhere with all kinds of useful information. It seems that people are definitely not giving out the +1s very often anymore.

The only pin removal tool I've used is Lutro0's and it definitely is effective. I've bent the crap out of the ends quite a few times and they always go back fairly straight so I'm pleased with it.


----------



## pez

I actually never had an issue with Lutro0's tool. I actually didn't have any staples to try the first time (well, no industrial ones, anyways), so I just waited on the tool and sleeved SATA in the mean time. I think I need a good crimper to really finish up my PSU sleevings, so it's on an indefinite hold. However, the pin removal tool worked wonders for me on the first few cables I did.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I'm astonished that @Unicr0nhunter doesn't have a few thousand by now. I see him popping up everywhere with all kinds of useful information. It seems that people are definitely not giving out the +1s very often anymore.
> 
> The only pin removal tool I've used is Lutro0's and it definitely is effective. I've bent the crap out of the ends quite a few times and they always go back fairly straight so I'm pleased with it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I actually never had an issue with Lutro0's tool. I actually didn't have any staples to try the first time (well, no industrial ones, anyways), so I just waited on the tool and sleeved SATA in the mean time. I think I need a good crimper to really finish up my PSU sleevings, so it's on an indefinite hold. However, the pin removal tool worked wonders for me on the first few cables I did.


I know that guys... But seriously 30$ For a tool i can probably make my self is better. i only can save 40-50$ a month due to where i live. and i've been sourcing and working extra times to get some extra cash to fund this hobby


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I know that guys... But seriously 30$ For a tool i can probably make my self is better. i only can save 40-50$ a month due to where i live. and i've been sourcing and working extra times to get some extra cash to fund this hobby


Ohhh... I didn't know that's why you were looking for dimensions. I hope that you are able to craft a tool like it. Post pics if you do!


----------



## khemist

Some of the cables from Pexon i'm due soon, can't wait to get them.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Ohhh... I didn't know that's why you were looking for dimensions. I hope that you are able to craft a tool like it. Post pics if you do!


Sure will do








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of the cables from Pexon i'm due soon, can't wait to get them.


You can say it's very well done.. through the clear connector you can see the sleeving is so even.


----------



## nyk20z3

That's why it makes more sense to build cables from scratch to me so its just plug and play and nothing will break.


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of the cables from Pexon i'm due soon, can't wait to get them.


Excellent work and its nice to see people going with different color connectors instead of the typical Black,i will be using UV Red myself.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I know that guys... But seriously 30$ For a tool i can probably make my self is better. i only can save 40-50$ a month due to where i live. and i've been sourcing and working extra times to get some extra cash to fund this hobby


FWIW, this little Shakmods ATX tool works rather well and is considerably cheaper than the genuine molex minifit jr 11-03-0044 that Lutro0 and MDPC sell.

£8.99 (e£101) + £1.49 (e£17) Royal Mail International Standard shipping to Egypt
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pin-Removal-Extractor-Tool-for-ATX-EPS-PCI-E-PSU-Connector-Strong-Spring-Steel-/171198076170?

It's considerably stronger and works better in many ways especially for harder-than-normal to de-pin PSU connectors like Corsair uses. Like I said before, I have quite a few ATX tools and it's my 'go-to' most of the time unless I have a lot of them to do and then I'll use a minifit jr or TE/AMP 1586343-1 but only because the shakmods handle is much smaller and gets a bit tedious if I'm needing to use it a lot (but nowhere near that of using staples, lol).


----------



## Turbz

Scratch build PCIe cables for my current build, LC Telios and 16AWG.


----------



## Timstuff

Lovely cables!


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FWIW, this little Shakmods ATX tool works rather well and is considerably cheaper than the genuine molex minifit jr 11-03-0044 that Lutro0 and MDPC sell.
> 
> £8.99 (e£101) + £1.49 (e£17) Royal Mail International Standard shipping to Egypt
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pin-Removal-Extractor-Tool-for-ATX-EPS-PCI-E-PSU-Connector-Strong-Spring-Steel-/171198076170?
> 
> It's considerably stronger and works better in many ways especially for harder-than-normal to de-pin PSU connectors like Corsair uses. Like I said before, I have quite a few ATX tools and it's my 'go-to' most of the time unless I have a lot of them to do and then I'll use a minifit jr or TE/AMP 1586343-1 but only because the shakmods handle is much smaller and gets a bit tedious if I'm needing to use it a lot (but nowhere near that of using staples, lol).


stop replying to my posts







.. mods will ban me for repping u lol







,, still i have a friend who will cnc me one







.. he has a lot of scrap metal


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I know that guys... But seriously 30$ For a tool i can probably make my self is better. i only can save 40-50$ a month due to where i live. and i've been sourcing and working extra times to get some extra cash to fund this hobby


Ah, didn't realize it'd be that expensive to get where you are :/.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> stop replying to my posts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. mods will ban me for repping u lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,, still i have a friend who will cnc me one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. he has a lot of scrap metal


That's actually a cool option to have. The 'handle' material that's used on the Lutro0 piece feels like it could be a pretty simple DIY thing, or you could grab some heatshrink and do a couple layers over the 'handle' portion.


----------



## maddangerous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> Scratch build PCIe cables for my current build, LC Telios and 16AWG.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images


I haven't decided on all the colors for my first sleeving project, but I'm pretty sure you just sold me on telios white. Nice cables.

Would you say that the white is a really bright one in person? Like... Arctic white I guess? Lol

I apologize if this info is elsewhere in the thread, I'm at work on my phone and didn't want to forget to look into it. That looks really nice.


----------



## Turbz

@maddangerous, Telios white is a very pure, bright white as long as you use white cable underneath it. I used white 16awg for the white sleeving and black 16awg for the red sleeving. It makes the white pop and the red nice and deep.

Everything I learnt to build the cables, and all the tools came from @Lutro0 either via Mainframe customs or Nate @ E22 (I'm in the UK so I bought lutro0 gear from E22 unless they were out of stock)


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> @maddangerous, Telios white is a very pure, bright white as long as you use white cable underneath it. I used white 16awg for the white sleeving and black 16awg for the red sleeving. It makes the white pop and the red nice and deep.
> 
> Everything I learnt to build the cables, and all the tools came from @Lutro0 either via Mainframe customs or Nate @ E22 (I'm in the UK so I bought lutro0 gear from E22 unless they were out of stock)


Yep, I've been using it for some cables. My cables are black underneath, but with a white wire it'd be a pretty 'clean' white as I'd put it. It's definitely not dull or close to 'off-white'.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maddangerous*
> 
> That looks great, how does the sleeveless work?
> 
> I apologize if this info is elsewhere in the thread, I'm at work on my phone and didn't want to forget to look into it. That looks really nice.


To make shrinkless double wires you can do something like this.

Cut the end of the sleeve at an angle, careful not to let it fray.


Push two sleeves together so the angled cut fits together


Cut a longish piece of heatshrink, maybe 25mm, and slide over both sleeves


Apply heat to the shrink evenly until the sleeves underneath have melted together.


----------



## maddangerous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> like shrinkless in general or for molex? daisy chain molxes need to be trimmed at an angle and melted together, i'll try and make a guide


As a quick tut for molexes at an angle was just posted, in general please







For something like a single end, I.E. a PCI-E connector? Is there some type of adhesive inside the sleeve? That shrinkless look is soooo clean, I hadn't seen it before. Definitely caught my eye, I'm interested.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> @maddangerous, Telios white is a very pure, bright white as long as you use white cable underneath it. I used white 16awg for the white sleeving and black 16awg for the red sleeving. It makes the white pop and the red nice and deep.
> 
> Everything I learnt to build the cables, and all the tools came from @Lutro0 either via Mainframe customs or Nate @ E22 (I'm in the UK so I bought lutro0 gear from E22 unless they were out of stock)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Yep, I've been using it for some cables. My cables are black underneath, but with a white wire it'd be a pretty 'clean' white as I'd put it. It's definitely not dull or close to 'off-white'.


Alright, thanks to both of you. I think my cables are black underneath, maybe if I can find a very dense woven sleeving it would help? White is the accent color in my build so I am interested in some white sleeving.. hm. Again, thanks though. @turbz I'm not sure that I will be remaking my wires with different colors though







that's intense. I shall consider it though. Was it time consuming for you? May I PM you about that matter?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> To make shrinkless double wires you can do something like this.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Sleeving Pics
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the end of the sleeve at an angle, careful not to let it fray.
> 
> 
> Push two sleeves together so the angled cut fits together
> 
> 
> Cut a longish piece of heatshrink, maybe 25mm, and slide over both sleeves
> 
> 
> Apply heat to the shrink evenly until the sleeves underneath have melted together.


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> To make shrinkless double wires you can do something like this.
> 
> Cut the end of the sleeve at an angle, careful not to let it fray.
> 
> 
> Push two sleeves together so the angled cut fits together
> 
> 
> Cut a longish piece of heatshrink, maybe 25mm, and slide over both sleeves
> 
> 
> Apply heat to the shrink evenly until the sleeves underneath have melted together.


That's really clean looking WiSK. I love the idea, how does it look pushed into the connector?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> To make shrinkless double wires you can do something like this.
> 
> Cut the end of the sleeve at an angle, careful not to let it fray.
> 
> 
> Push two sleeves together so the angled cut fits together
> 
> 
> Cut a longish piece of heatshrink, maybe 25mm, and slide over both sleeves
> 
> 
> Apply heat to the shrink evenly until the sleeves underneath have melted together.


OMG; I think this is exactly what I needed for my cables. I'm not even sure why I wouldn't have thought of that before. I've got to try this tomorrow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maddangerous*
> 
> As a quick tut for molexes at an angle was just posted, in general please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For something like a single end, I.E. a PCI-E connector? Is there some type of adhesive inside the sleeve? That shrinkless look is soooo clean, I hadn't seen it before. Definitely caught my eye, I'm interested.
> 
> Alright, thanks to both of you. I think my cables are black underneath, maybe if I can find a very dense woven sleeving it would help? White is the accent color in my build so I am interested in some white sleeving.. hm. Again, thanks though. @turbz I'm not sure that I will be remaking my wires with different colors though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's intense. I shall consider it though. Was it time consuming for you? May I PM you about that matter?


No probs...and the tighter you can pull it and hold it while you do the ends, the better it will come out. A lot of people use zip ties for this purpose alone.


----------



## rgrwng

do the angles have to be cut really steep? or can they just be short angle cuts? I really want to try this tomorrow after a night's rest from working on my 8-pin CPU cable.


----------



## maddangerous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> OMG; I think this is exactly what I needed for my cables. I'm not even sure why I wouldn't have thought of that before. I've got to try this tomorrow.
> No probs...and the tighter you can pull it and hold it while you do the ends, the better it will come out. A lot of people use zip ties for this purpose alone.


Wait...what? How do you do the shrink less sleeving...? I'm not following you here lol did I miss something?


----------



## rgrwng

Just tried this method for dual wires. the hardest part for me was getting the heat-shrink over both sleeves. took several minutes to line it up. i guess at that point you only have one shot, unless you remeasure sleeving and try again.



thank you for the information! do the cuts have to be really angled, or can it be short angled? pictured, a deep angle cut was used. were you able to get both sleeves in the connector without issue? i had to kind of force both sleeves into the one connector port, so its frayed, now


----------



## Lutro0

For the double wire heatshrinkless you can also simply cut a little slit down the sleeve as well and put the cuts twards the inside. It does the same as the angled cuts but I find it a bit easier.


----------



## WiSK

The advantage of the angled cuts is that it removes material. The disadvantage is that it starts to fray easily.

When melting, it takes some practice to get it right. If you melt it too little it can fall apart. If you melt it too much then it might not fit in the connector any more.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maddangerous*
> 
> Wait...what? How do you do the shrink less sleeving...? I'm not following you here lol did I miss something?


Yep, for PSU cables it's a pretty commonplace thing now. I *believe* it's easier to do with plastic sleeving, but I'm not sure. LutroO has a few videos going over it that are linked in the OP I believe--but just in case:










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> For the double wire heatshrinkless you can also simply cut a little slit down the sleeve as well and put the cuts twards the inside. It does the same as the angled cuts but I find it a bit easier.


So kinda like open up the inners and then overlap them? I think I understand it, but I'm over-thinking it too







.


----------



## rgrwng

is there a video for this method, yet? i would like to watch it, if one exists. so far, i just need all the double wires, rest of my 24-pin, and cable combs to complete my set.

i would like to compliment Corsair for their wire quality: the set i am re-sleeving has been through a lot of abuse, and have stood up now to heatshrinkless style. it is the original set of cables.

also, thanks to Mainframe customs for being on the other side of the hills from me - makes sleeving affordable and accessible.

my hands are hurting badly, must be because of the fine detailed work to get these nice and stuff:


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Yep, for PSU cables it's a pretty commonplace thing now. I *believe* it's easier to do with plastic sleeving, but I'm not sure. LutroO has a few videos going over it that are linked in the OP I believe--but just in case:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So kinda like open up the inners and then overlap them? I think I understand it, but I'm over-thinking it too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yup, some triming here and there to get it right but this is the only way I have ever been able to do stuff like this:



But WiSKs method is a great one as well!


----------



## Turbz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> is there a video for this method, yet? i would like to watch it, if one exists. so far, i just need all the double wires, rest of my 24-pin, and cable combs to complete my set.
> 
> i would like to compliment Corsair for their wire quality: the set i am re-sleeving has been through a lot of abuse, and have stood up now to heatshrinkless style. it is the original set of cables.
> 
> also, thanks to Mainframe customs for being on the other side of the hills from me - makes sleeving affordable and accessible.
> 
> my hands are hurting badly, must be because of the fine detailed work to get these nice and stuff:


Yup, my hands were all cramped up for days after atx, cpu and 4 pcie cables, plus a big blood blister from heatshrinkless method. It feels good to put literal blood, sweat and tears into it. Satisfying


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> Yup, my hands were all cramped up for days after atx, cpu and 4 pcie cables, plus a big blood blister from heatshrinkless method. It feels good to put literal blood, sweat and tears into it. Satisfying


Agree the pain is somewhat satisfying the first few times, but if you do more than a few PSUs you will want to develop callouses, or get gloves or use zip ties


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I'd _really_ like to see a video or a detailed photo guide of how the zip ties are used. I've seen Lowfat recommend it and try to explain how he uses them but I'm not understanding exactly how he's doing what he's doing with them.


----------



## nyk20z3

You guys recommend 16 or 18 gauge wire ?

Going to do all my cables from scratch,I was told my psu uses a 1to1 ratio so it should be a breeze to do them.


----------



## Praz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'd _really_ like to see a video or a detailed photo guide of how the zip ties are used. I've seen Lowfat recommend it and try to explain how he uses them but I'm not understanding exactly how he's doing what he's doing with them.


Hello

Place the zip tie around the wire close to the finished end and tighten it. Slide it along the wire close to the other end, finish that end and cut off the zip tie.


----------



## Turbz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> You guys recommend 16 or 18 gauge wire ?
> 
> Going to do all my cables from scratch,I was told my psu uses a 1to1 ratio so it should be a breeze to do them.


16 holds its shape well and can be trained easily, if your sleeving is nice and tight.


----------



## khemist

Thank you Pexon!, got a free psu tester and some sweets thrown in as well, really happy with them.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> is there a video for this method, yet? i would like to watch it, if one exists. so far, i just need all the double wires, rest of my 24-pin, and cable combs to complete my set.
> 
> i would like to compliment Corsair for their wire quality: the set i am re-sleeving has been through a lot of abuse, and have stood up now to heatshrinkless style. it is the original set of cables.
> 
> also, thanks to Mainframe customs for being on the other side of the hills from me - makes sleeving affordable and accessible.
> 
> my hands are hurting badly, must be because of the fine detailed work to get these nice and stuff:


What brand sleeving did you use there. I'm a fan of the stiffer plastic sleeving over the clothe like paracord easier to have it hold it's shape


----------



## nyk20z3

You guys recomend
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Pexon!, got a free psu tester and some sweets thrown in as well, really happy with them.


What was the final price on that order ?


----------



## khemist

I think it was about £115 - £120.

That was for 24 pin power, 8 pin cpu power, 2 x 6 pin pcie, 1 x 8 pin pcie, 2 x straight sata power, 2 x molex made to the lengths i wanted.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Praz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'd _really_ like to see a video or a detailed photo guide of how the zip ties are used. I've seen Lowfat recommend it and try to explain how he uses them but I'm not understanding exactly how he's doing what he's doing with them.
> 
> 
> 
> Hello
> 
> Place the zip tie around the wire close to the finished end and tighten it. Slide it along the wire close to the other end, finish that end and cut off the zip tie.
Click to expand...

Yeah I've tried that. I really want to see it done though.

I've already ruined one relatively new $35 pr of knipex flush cutters trying to cut zip ties off the sleeve without nicking the sleeve too, which I've also done more than once. The knipex cutters are useless for trying to cut sleeve cleanly with now. Even a new pr of cheaper flush cutters won't even make it though the zip tie at all. I've tried with scissors and wire cutters. Dang things are a beast to cut off of the sleeve when taught without damaging the sleeve with anything I've tried. Tried using smaller zip ties and they either wouldn't slide at all or without a lot of difficulty & sometimes grabbed and damaged the sleeve by themselves.

I've pretty given up until there's a video similar to something done by Lutro0 where I can see exactly how others are doing it. Never had anywhere near this much trouble just using my fingers.


----------



## Praz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah I've tried that. I really want to see it done though.
> 
> I've already ruined one relatively new $35 pr of knipex flush cutters trying to cut zip ties off the sleeve without nicking the sleeve too, which I've also done more than once. The knipex cutters are useless for trying to cut sleeve cleanly with now. Even a new pr of cheaper flush cutters won't even make it though the zip tie at all. I've tried with scissors and wire cutters. Dang things are a beast to cut off of the sleeve when taught without damaging the sleeve with anything I've tried. Tried using smaller zip ties and they either wouldn't slide at all or without a lot of difficulty & sometimes grabbed and damaged the sleeve by themselves.
> 
> I've pretty given up until there's a video similar to something done by Lutro0 where I can see exactly how others are doing it. Never had anywhere near this much trouble just using my fingers.


Hello

I use thin 4" zip ties similar to the ones linked below. I also use the same cutters for them that I use for the sleeving.

http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Tie-N4ULD100-Standard-100-Pack/dp/B005LTJCU4/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1426698810&sr=1-4&keywords=Ultra+Light+Duty+Standard+Cable+Tie


----------



## Himo5

The best implement for cutting zip ties is a nail clipper.


----------



## rgrwng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What brand sleeving did you use there. I'm a fan of the stiffer plastic sleeving over the clothe like paracord easier to have it hold it's shape


The sleeving i used is the Teleios from Mainframe Customs. regular RED, Dark gray, and BLack


----------



## ozzy1925

guys,which color LC Stealth Cable wrap looks better on this color pattern:


white ,black or just get the clear


----------



## Nick the Slick

First time sleever here, just wanted to post a pic of what I've got so far and see if anyone has any suggestions or comments. Just sleeving the OEM cables so they're not trained very well. Started with the PCI-E cables as they seemed the easiest so I could get some practice. Got a lot of work ahead of me with this SeaSonic 24 pin to do though.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Yup, some triming here and there to get it right but this is the only way I have ever been able to do stuff like this:
> 
> 
> 
> But WiSKs method is a great one as well!


Awesome. The X1250 has it's PCI-E power cables like this and it's what I wanted to start off doing since I had an extra cable, and it was the one power cable you'd see the most of. It's pretty much the reason I stopped sleeving after the first couple and getting extremely frustrated.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah I've tried that. I really want to see it done though.
> 
> I've already ruined one relatively new $35 pr of knipex flush cutters trying to cut zip ties off the sleeve without nicking the sleeve too, which I've also done more than once. The knipex cutters are useless for trying to cut sleeve cleanly with now. Even a new pr of cheaper flush cutters won't even make it though the zip tie at all. I've tried with scissors and wire cutters. Dang things are a beast to cut off of the sleeve when taught without damaging the sleeve with anything I've tried. Tried using smaller zip ties and they either wouldn't slide at all or without a lot of difficulty & sometimes grabbed and damaged the sleeve by themselves.
> 
> I've pretty given up until there's a video similar to something done by Lutro0 where I can see exactly how others are doing it. Never had anywhere near this much trouble just using my fingers.


Yeah, I'm thinking the really small/thin zipties are what they're referring too. And also, nail clippers are what I'd use on the zipties over the flush cutters. Just for the fact those things are a little pricey to keep replacing.


----------



## nyk20z3

What do you guys recommend for a good PSU tester ?


----------



## Turbz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> What do you guys recommend for a good PSU tester ?


I have this one however it does not have the ability to test 8 pin EPS, which is annoying. For everything else, it's fine.

Edit: I would also recommend having a multimeter so you can understand what you are actually testing and troubleshoot if the PSU tester indicates any problems.


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> I have this one however it does not have the ability to test 8 pin EPS, which is annoying. For everything else, it's fine.
> 
> Edit: I would also recommend having a multimeter so you can understand what you are actually testing and troubleshoot if the PSU tester indicates any problems.


Thanks i was just looking at that but i def need a function to test 8 pin pci e,i might have to invest in a decent digital one!


----------



## rgrwng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick the Slick*
> 
> ...Just sleeving the OEM cables so they're not trained very well. Started with the PCI-E cables as they seemed the easiest so I could get some practice. Got a lot of work ahead of me with this SeaSonic 24 pin to do though.


second-time sleever for me, using also the OEM cables. if the oem wires are all bent/folded/kinked, i stretch them straight as much as possible by hand before sleeving.

i also had some old spare parts lying around, so i plugged them into say, the motherboard, and hung them upside down, connected to random hardware, for a few days in sunlight. after a few days, they kind of straightened out by their own weight. just do not hang them too freely.

i thought about maybe going over the wires with my heat gun, to maybe soften and iron out the bends, but decided to use the hardware method, instead. straight OEM wires also help immensely when measuring sleeving.


----------



## nyk20z3

My UV Red power connectors arivved today but the 8 pin and dual 8 pin pci e or a different shade of Red compared to the 24 pin.

Safe to say i am not happy about that as they are all from the same oem so they should match.


----------



## Devildog83

Just finished these. Looks like the PSU isn't working now. No training or combs yet but there are done but for the 8 pin power.


----------



## SiberianGhost

First time sleeving cables, I tried with paracord 550 and Heatsink of 1/4". I sleeved the power switch, reset switch, HDD led, power led (all is DIY)

I'll appreciate any advice to improve the sleeving





My new sleeving will be 24 pin and 4+4 pin of my CX750M, with three colors of paracord (black, red and gray)


----------



## rgrwng

mostly finished. wanted to make sure i could get the PC powered on without issue, with them installed.


----------



## Nick the Slick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> second-time sleever for me, using also the OEM cables. if the oem wires are all bent/folded/kinked, i stretch them straight as much as possible by hand before sleeving.
> 
> i also had some old spare parts lying around, so i plugged them into say, the motherboard, and hung them upside down, connected to random hardware, for a few days in sunlight. after a few days, they kind of straightened out by their own weight. just do not hang them too freely.


Yes I definitely straightened them as much as possible before sleeving. I do it during and after as well, seems to get them reasonably straight, but using heat and gravity to do the work sounds a lot more appealing. I got around to putting the cable combs on though so all is well now







I also got my 8 pin CPU cable done and have started on the 24 pin. Started with the 4 double pins I had to deal with. I don't think I did too bad for myself, but I definitely need to work on my splicing


----------



## nyk20z3

UV Red 24 pin -


----------



## Nick the Slick

Pulled an all nighter, but it's all finished


----------



## SiberianGhost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick the Slick*
> 
> Pulled an all nighter, but it's all finished


That looks really cool!

I have a quick question:

What is the good inner size of heatsink to cover the 3/4 pin conectors of fan coolers?

Sent from a parallel universe


----------



## Nick the Slick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SiberianGhost*
> 
> That looks really cool!
> 
> I have a quick question:
> 
> What is the good inner size of heatsink to cover the 3/4 pin conectors of fan coolers?
> 
> Sent from a parallel universe


Thanks! I think it turned out nicely for my first go. As for your question, I'm not completely sure as I haven't done it but I would say 3/16 3:1 would probably be best for fan headers. If you can't get that, then I'd say 1/4 4:1 would be the next best bet. 1/4 3:1 would probably work but I'm just not sure it would give a tight enough fit for the small fan wires. Hopefully someone else can chime in and give a more definitive answer.


----------



## charliebrown

Made my own extensions I think its looks good for a first timer I need more atx pins went thru a bunch practicing


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> 
> 
> Made my own extensions I think its looks good for a first timer I need more atx pins went thru a bunch practicing


I think it looks good sir


----------



## charliebrown

Thanks


----------



## SiberianGhost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick the Slick*
> 
> Thanks! I think it turned out nicely for my first go. As for your question, I'm not completely sure as I haven't done it but I would say 3/16 3:1 would probably be best for fan headers. If you can't get that, then I'd say 1/4 4:1 would be the next best bet. 1/4 3:1 would probably work but I'm just not sure it would give a tight enough fit for the small fan wires. Hopefully someone else can chime in and give a more definitive answer.


Thank you for answer!

I bought 3/16 for wires and is worked perfectly but still a little bit small to do this:



I was thinking about a 19/32" could work perfect to cover 3 pin and 4 pin fan header

What do you think?


----------



## Lutro0

A good tip to remember with heatshrink is that if your shrink is too small for your application - take a needle nose pliers and stretch it out to fit and then shrink it as normal. It will return to its original size that it was supposed to be shrunk.


----------



## BobbyTheBuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rgrwng*
> 
> 
> 
> mostly finished. wanted to make sure i could get the PC powered on without issue, with them installed.


What graphics cards are those?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BobbyTheBuilder*
> 
> What graphics cards are those?


Look to be amd r9 2XX series. Looks like an r9 290 / 290x


----------



## emsj86

This is what I have now. Looking for help with a third color to add. Thinking aver but is there a good color for silver. Need some ideas thoughts and pics if you can help.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> This is what I have now. Looking for help with a third color to add. Thinking aver but is there a good color for silver. Need some ideas thoughts and pics if you can help.


Gray always mixes well with combos, but a small amount of navy blue would be good as well.


----------



## emsj86

@lutro thanks. So your saying either gray or maybe a four cor scheme mainly blue and black with some navy blue and gray or navy bur with the lighter blue and black


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> @lutro thanks. So your saying either gray or maybe a four cor scheme mainly blue and black with some navy blue and gray or navy bur with the lighter blue and black


No sorry, I would stick to a 3 color scheme of either: (I have not been a fan of 4 color schemes as they are hard to pull off cleanly)

blue, black, and dark gray (dark gray because your case is kinda dark and the light gray would pop a bit much IMO)

or

blue, black, and navy blue (navy because it would mix well with what you have and even though there is nothing in your case that is navy blue it will still add a nice shading affect to the blue. So I would make sure its next to your original blue in your pattern - I think blue navy black would be a good transition because of the increase of the darkness of the color. Know what I mean?

EDIT-

Also it looks like one of your stickers on the bottom is an aqua blue (I don't know how much of this color is in your case) and when the light hits your coolant it looks aqua a bit as well so blue, aqua, and black would work. I would try to order it black, blue, aqua, blue, black so that you dont have aqua next to black for the transition effect - however it will look good either way


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> This is what I have now. Looking for help with a third color to add. Thinking aver but is there a good color for silver. Need some ideas thoughts and pics if you can help.


I agree that grey would look great. I like really contrasting colors, too, so my other suggestions would be along the lines of purple (LutroO carries like a 'acid' purple-like color in Telios)...at the same time, grey would be better as that purple would probably throw off a lot of other things.


----------



## emsj86

Is there a brand that sells ratcheting crumpers at say a Home Depot it lowes ? Debating on buying extensions or just getting pin removal and some sleeve and sleeve a few wires on the extensions I already had done to change the colors. Thanks


----------



## branyap

Hey guys, I'm new to these cable sleeving stuff, so *I would like some color help*.

Mobo: MSI H97I AC


RAM: Corsair Vengeance Pro


GPU: MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G (will most likely *plasti-dip* the red part to blue)


Case: Phanteks Evolv ITX


Will very likely include *black* and *blue*, but since it's been said that a 3-color combo works best, what colors will match my build the best?
Thanks in advance!


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *branyap*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm new to these cable sleeving stuff, so *I would like some color help*.
> 
> Mobo: MSI H97I AC
> 
> 
> RAM: Corsair Vengeance Pro
> 
> 
> GPU: MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G (will most likely *plasti-dip* the red part to blue)
> 
> 
> Case: Phanteks Evolv ITX
> 
> 
> Will very likely include *black* and *blue*, but since it's been said that a 3-color combo works best, what colors will match my build the best?
> Thanks in advance!


Im glad you said you wiuld change the color of the gpu becsuse that would not have fit in lol. Blue, black, grey. Blue, black, another shade of blue?


----------



## SiberianGhost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> A good tip to remember with heatshrink is that if your shrink is too small for your application - take a needle nose pliers and stretch it out to fit and then shrink it as normal. It will return to its original size that it was supposed to be shrunk.


Thanks for the tip, I'll use that


----------



## seeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> This is what I have now. Looking for help with a third color to add. Thinking aver but is there a good color for silver. Need some ideas thoughts and pics if you can help.


gold would look good imo

and a question for you...where did you get those clips for your 24 pin cable?


----------



## jlakai

What do you guys think ?? My first time making my own cables. Yay or nay on the braiding ? The molex in all white is 1/8" bitspower sleeving and the others are paracord in case you are wondering.


----------



## charliebrown

Those colors are sweet


----------



## pez

The braiding idea is actually really cool. Is there a possibility it could be tighter? Of course this effect cable length, but I'm curious.


----------



## grazz1984

where can i buy those cable clips from you guys are using for sleeved cables?


----------



## richie_2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984*
> 
> where can i buy those cable clips from you guys are using for sleeved cables?


e22 sells them here in the uk and has a discount code for free shipping. it says buy the keyring to get it but i just added the code and it works.
ordered me some red and white sleeve to do my fan cables again and my sata leads a little birthday threat to me, missed these though but going get my other cables done 1st before doing that.


----------



## jdstock76

Who sells a high quality sleeved extension? I'm doing a refresh and don't want to do a whole resleeve. Any ideas?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Who sells a high quality sleeved extension? I'm doing a refresh and don't want to do a whole resleeve. Any ideas?


I would check Icemodz, I'll be putting in an order there to soon. Still havent decided on colour combos, so I'll finish up my build first and then order and sleeve


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I would check Icemodz, I'll be putting in an order there to soon. Still havent decided on colour combos, so I'll finish up my build first and then order and sleeve


No personal experience, but from what I've seen and heard from my bud Alex, they do great work. Check out the IceModz cables he's using in his build:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1531786/sponsored-green-molecule-modded-fractal-design-arc-mini-r2/80#post_23667800


----------



## charliebrown

i bought a cpu extension from ensourced to see how they are it was very nice but decided to make my own


----------



## pez

Lutro0 carries this gorgeous aqua blue now. I'm not a big fan of blue in general...I mean I like blue, but it's just a 'meh' color to me usually. But this Aqua just looks so great. Better in person, IMO.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Lutro0 carries this gorgeous aqua blue now. I'm not a big fan of blue in general...I mean I like blue, but it's just a 'meh' color to me usually. But this Aqua just looks so great. Better in person, IMO.


God damn. That's like. Exactly the blue to match up with Pastel Blue Berry lol. Sweet!


----------



## pez

Just looked up that color and see it's a WC'ing thing. I'll give it another look-see when I get home and let you know how closely it matches up. The picture isn't 100% accurate, but I can at least try and give you an idea if it's close enough. Odds are I left the picture a bit on the warm side.


----------



## Devildog83

For my Stepsons Mercury S5 Build. They do a nice job.


----------



## nyk20z3

Finished up a 8 pin power -

I had to cross some wires but that's just how Silverstone designed it, not bad for my first try but some cables are not as tight as others but not to visible.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> For my Stepsons Mercury S5 Build. They do a nice job.


I actually was checking these out. I'm pretty sure the blues don't match the fans, ram, or case, but I may be swayed to give it a try.


----------



## nyk20z3

Question for you guys -

When i am sleeving cables individually should i give the wire a good stretch before measuring and cutting ?

I just cut a bunch to length,pushed the wire through and then i would give the wire a stretch over but quite a few times it would increase in length naturally so i had to back it off the pin a little. When i look over the 8 pin i sleeved i noticed some wires are tighter to the wire while others are a little fatter and obviously that's not the desired effect.


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Question for you guys -
> 
> When i am sleeving cables individually should i give the wire a good stretch before measuring and cutting ?
> 
> I just cut a bunch to length,pushed the wire through and then i would give the wire a stretch over but quite a few times it would increase in length naturally so i had to back it off the pin a little. When i look over the 8 pin i sleeved i noticed some wires are tighter to the wire while others are a little fatter and obviously that's not the desired effect.


i always measure the sleeve loose... then if theres excess i cut it off or melt it away until the desired strectehd length it achieved


----------



## abirli

been a while since i posted some photos

Aegis sleeve except for the last batch. that blue is mdpc b magic

http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/UltimatePersonalComputers/media/IMG_5292_zpsgajoi1m6.jpg.html

http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U.../media/carrigan/IMG_5286_zpsz4jclykz.jpg.html

http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U.../media/carrigan/IMG_5289_zpsqebcjzyo.jpg.html

http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U...t gen computers/IMG_5296_zpsnvtgtutf.jpg.html

http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U...t gen computers/IMG_5304_zpsiqmi8mhs.jpg.html

http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U...t gen computers/IMG_5307_zpsr8zie1hz.jpg.html


----------



## nyk20z3

Amazing work.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> I actually was checking these out. I'm pretty sure the blues don't match the fans, ram, or case, but I may be swayed to give it a try.


His doesn't really match the rest of the build either, He has an ROG mobo and a white S5 but believe it or not it still looks really nice. I will snap some pics as soon as I can of the build.


----------



## Frontside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> been a while since i posted some photos
> 
> Aegis sleeve except for the last batch. that blue is mdpc b magic
> 
> http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/UltimatePersonalComputers/media/IMG_5292_zpsgajoi1m6.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U.../media/carrigan/IMG_5286_zpsz4jclykz.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U.../media/carrigan/IMG_5289_zpsqebcjzyo.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U...t gen computers/IMG_5296_zpsnvtgtutf.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U...t gen computers/IMG_5304_zpsiqmi8mhs.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U...t gen computers/IMG_5307_zpsr8zie1hz.jpg.html


UPC
















Finished my first sleeving job. Not perfect, but i'm quite happy with the results. more pics in my project log

__
https://flic.kr/p/rAMCgU


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontside*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> UPC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished my first sleeving job. Not perfect, but i'm quite happy with the results. more pics in my project log
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/rAMCgU


What's messed up?


----------



## Frontside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> What's messed up?


Some wires a bit thicker the others.


----------



## nyk20z3

These longer wires are much harder to fish through the sleeving then i thought, might have to tape the ends or find something to pull the actual cable/pin through =/

I am also using this de pin tool from Lutro but some of the pins don't want to budge, Any other methods i can use to pop some atx terminals out ?


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> These longer wires are much harder to fish through the sleeving then i thought, might have to tape the ends or find something to pull the actual cable/pin through =/
> 
> I am also using this de pin tool from Lutro but some of the pins don't want to budge, Any other methods i can use to pop some atx terminals out ?


I recently posted this guide, which you might find useful.


----------



## Rainmaker91

So I have been thinking of it for a while now and while the EVGA sleeved cables I have are perfectly fine, the all black is somewhat boring. So I put together a pattern from whatever I picked up here and there, and I wonder what you guys think of it?



Also how much sleeving would I actually need for the accented colours? I'm probably getting somewhere around 60-70m of black sleeving if I remember the measurements correctly.

Edit: I can just measure with a ruler I guess


----------



## ivoryg37

Is there any special way to get the 24pin from the silver stone power supply out? I can do the staple method on my seasonic perfectly. I had that done in about 30 minutes. I'm trying to do a silver stone power supply now and these pins won't budge at all. I've gone through so many staples now and it just won't cooperate with me at all. I can't one on my silverstone


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Is there any special way to get the 24pin from the silver stone power supply out? I can do the staple method on my seasonic perfectly. I had that done in about 30 minutes. I'm trying to do a silver stone power supply now and these pins won't budge at all. I've gone through so many staples now and it just won't cooperate with me at all. I can't one on my silverstone


I am having issues now as well on my Strider S, i was able to do an 8 pin NP and now my 24 pin is giving me issues and i don't want to rip the wire from the terminal.


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> I am having issues now as well on my Strider S, i was able to do an 8 pin NP and now my 24 pin is giving me issues and i don't want to rip the wire from the terminal.


I finally got it by using more staples lol. I would use two staples on each side instead of one and I got it. The only problem is I forgot to keep place of where the wire goes because I was too happy to finally get it done.

For the 8 pin cpu does it matter where the wires go? I put the yellow on top where the push clip is and all the black ones at the bottom and did the same on the modular side as well.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> So I have been thinking of it for a while now and while the EVGA sleeved cables I have are perfectly fine, the all black is somewhat boring. So I put together a pattern from whatever I picked up here and there, and I wonder what you guys think of it?
> 
> 
> 
> Also how much sleeving would I actually need for the accented colours? I'm probably getting somewhere around 60-70m of black sleeving if I remember the measurements correctly.
> 
> Edit: I can just measure with a ruler I guess


You could measure or go on the website for the manufacturer's specs of the actual length. That's actually what I went off of when ordering the stuff for my PSU. General rule of thumb is to add 10% on top of what you need, but for someone completely new (and even I still do) I'd do 15-20% extra. I made the mistake of only doing 10% more this last time (that an impatience) and ended up needing more. It's more annoying that the shipping is probably going to be more than the actual sleeving.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> You could measure or go on the website for the manufacturer's specs of the actual length. That's actually what I went off of when ordering the stuff for my PSU. General rule of thumb is to add 10% on top of what you need, but for someone completely new (and even I still do) I'd do 15-20% extra. I made the mistake of only doing 10% more this last time (that an impatience) and ended up needing more. It's more annoying that the shipping is probably going to be more than the actual sleeving.


I'll check out how much I need for the cables then, thanks for the advice







Now on to see if EVGA has those measurements


----------



## charliebrown

what size sleeving do i get for sata data and power cables


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> what size sleeving do i get for sata data and power cables


8-10mm for data regular 4mm for power


----------



## richie_2010

I need to ask how do you guys get your sleeving the right lenth. Every time i try and sleeve a wire the sleeve is always shorter. I hold it to one end and pull it taught but still not happening


----------



## charliebrown

Make it a little longer than the actual cable


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> I need to ask how do you guys get your sleeving the right lenth. Every time i try and sleeve a wire the sleeve is always shorter. I hold it to one end and pull it taught but still not happening


If you watch Lutro's videos you'll see that he doesn't pull the sleeve taught when he measures it, he holds it straight against the wire without stretching it.

Personally, for heatshrinkless mode I use a different method:
1. Cut the wire from stop post to stop post - that's the two prongs sticking up after the wire crimp (if you follow Lutro's method you will probably want to measure just a fraction past each post).
2. Crimp one end.
3. Pull the sleeve onto the wire to where you will melt it onto the wire crimp.
4. Now stretch - but not strain - it back to the other end of the wire and stick a pin through it there.
5. Loosen the sleeve back towards the pin then cut it just before the pin and seal the cut.
6. Pull the sleeve back onto the wire and melt it on the 1st crimp.
7. Now slacken the sleeve at the other end to make the 2nd crimp - making sure the angle of the 2nd crimp round the wire agrees with the 1st crimp (usually the same angle).
8. Finally stretch the sleeve and melt it onto the 2nd crimp.
9. As an additional step - and if you knew its original length - you can now measure the remaining sleeve (without stretching it) and see how much you actually used for that length of wire.
(When wires belong to the same length set - or subset (e.g. the inner and outer wires in an unmatched bend) - in the cable and if you feel confident of being able to measure the sleeve without stretching it, it's a good step towards uniformity to use the measure you find from the 1st wire for the rest of the set (or subset) rather than recutting each one independently according to how tight you stretched it.)

As a final note, especially with 4mm sleeve, watch out how tightly you stretch the sleeve in steps 4 and 8. It's all too easy to stretch it so much that you can't hold it steady on the mark while you melt it onto the 2nd crimp.


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> I need to ask how do you guys get your sleeving the right lenth. Every time i try and sleeve a wire the sleeve is always shorter. I hold it to one end and pull it taught but still not happening


Well with bitspower sleeve all you have to do is pull from crimp to crimp to get the measurement on a ruler then you can start cutting them to length very quickly and accurate. No need for all this stretching nonsense.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I tried using Bitspower sleeve once but wasn't happy with it. It's weave is way too dense & wouldn't stretch much at all so it didn't fit the wire tight enough which wound up looking pretty bad. I never could get a cable done and trained to look neat enough using it. It's not a sleeve I would ever recommend over sleeve that has a good dense weave but a lot of room to stretch it like MDPC, Lutro0's Telios, Darkside, etc. I'll take that "_stretching nonsense_" any day of the week over that Bitspower junk.


----------



## pez

My rule of thumb just so you don't have issues (and because I order a pretty good excess of sleeve now) is to loosely measure the sleeve with the cable, and then go halfway up each connector plug. It's going to be shorter for the fact that the sleeving (at least for LC Teleios) is by default a bit shrunken. Once you stretch it over a cable, with it pulled even the tightest you can get without ruining the sleeving, it's going to still be a bit short.

The general method outlined in Lutro0's video is to put it on the cable, pull it tight, and then make a small snip where you need to make the cut. Then you slide the sleeve back off just enough to make the full snip/cut.

Hope this helps a bit.


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I tried using Bitspower sleeve once but wasn't happy with it. It's weave is way too dense & wouldn't stretch much at all so it didn't fit the wire tight enough which wound up looking pretty bad. I never could get a cable done and trained to look neat enough using it. It's not a sleeve I would ever recommend over sleeve that has a good dense weave but a lot of room to stretch it like MDPC, Lutro0's Telios, Darkside, etc. I'll take that "_stretching nonsense_" any day of the week over that Bitspower junk.


I'm not sure what gauge wire or size sleeve you tried, but 1/8" bitspower sleeve has a weave tight enough to not need to stretch when using 16 awg and has just enough stretch although not really needed for 18 awg to hug the wire tighter and more uniform than you can any 4mm aliexpress stuff. The results from each wire is consistent each time because of this tight weave there is also no need to "train" like with other sleeving. It is hard believe anyone would go as far as to call it "junk" since bitspower sleeve is the highest quality plastic sleeve used to sleeve pc cables on the market . It sounds like you either never used it, used the wrong size or something related to user error. Perhaps it is the price that left that "junk" taste in your mouth. I'm not looking to argue but having tried every type of sleeve and bitspower sleeve is the one that impressed and stood out the most in terms of quality compared to the other brands you suggest. They are all high quality to be fair but bitspower sleeve quality is above all that you mentioned.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> I'm not sure what gauge wire or size sleeve you tried, but 1/8" bitspower sleeve has a weave tight enough to not need to stretch when using 16 awg and has just enough stretch although not really needed for 18 awg to hug the wire tighter and more uniform than you can any 4mm aliexpress stuff. The results from each wire is consistent each time because of this tight weave there is also no need to "train" like with other sleeving. It is hard believe anyone would go as far as to call it "junk" since bitspower sleeve is the highest quality plastic sleeve used to sleeve pc cables on the market . It sounds like you either never used it, used the wrong size or something related to user error. Perhaps it is the price that left that "junk" taste in your mouth. I'm not looking to argue but having tried every type of sleeve and bitspower sleeve is the one that impressed and stood out the most in terms of quality compared to the other brands you suggest. They are all high quality to be fair but bitspower sleeve quality is above all that you mentioned.


I have used bitspower among many many others in testing many times. I don't think I would go as far as to call it junk - but I will go as far as to say that when they were designing it they took one aspect that's needed in a good sleeve and then went overboard with it. *A good sleeve needs to be dense, have the right diameter, have the right weave, have the right filament size, have the ability to stretch and conform to 18 - 16awg wire, leave little to no see through when fully stretched, and be colored with fully opaque colors (none of that semi-transparent crap).* It seems to me that bitspower took the dense weave and filament size aspect and put all of their eggs into that basket which left it with little ability to stretch down and conform, and this leaves it with a mainly fixed diameter. This can lead to problems when trying to use the heat shrink method and also some issues when a newer sleever tried the heatshrink method by having too much plastic being melted on the ends.

All in all its a good sleeve - but not one I would ever recommend.


----------



## guitarhero23

What other options exists for SATA sleeving other than Teleios? Anything more close to paracord? Specifically looking for white.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> What other options exists for SATA sleeving other than Teleios? Anything more close to paracord? Specifically looking for white.


^This


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> What other options exists for SATA sleeving other than Teleios? Anything more close to paracord? Specifically looking for white.


Assuming you are talking about a SATA data cable, then I'm not aware of a size of paracord that would work. Having only worked with paracord a bit myself (hate everything about the stuff tbh, but that's just me) I'd be surprised to find that there is a suitable size of paracord that would be able to stretch over the ends and still be able to be stretched to give a nice tight appearance on the cable.

Here's what Lutro0 said in the FAQs:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> _Welcome to Lutro0's Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions_
> 
> [...]
> Can You Sleeve Sata Data Cables With Paracord?
> - Is there a size of paracord that can be used to sleeve sata data cables?
> 
> Sadly the answer is no. Paracord generally tops out at 650, there may be some made that's larger but I have not ever found any. But not all is lost...
> 
> Bitfenix makes sleeved sata cables that will match as they are using a soft nylon type material that looks like paracord.
> 
> Here is an example:
> 
> [...]


All that said, here's some SATA sized PET sleeve options:

http://mainframecustom.com/product-category/cable-sleeving/lc-teleios-sleeve/lc-teleios-8mmsata-sleeve/
https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/10mm-sata-cable-sleeve/
http://www.icemodz.com/#!/Sata-Sleeve/p/23562893/category=5474644
=92&searchsubs=ON]http://www.moddiy.com/search.php?mode=1&search_query_adv=%22Sleeve+%2810mm%29%22&category[]=92&searchsubs=ON


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Assuming you are talking about a SATA data cable, then I'm not aware of a size of paracord that would work. Having only worked with paracord a bit myself (hate everything about the stuff tbh, but that's just me) I'd be surprised to find that there is a suitable size of paracord that would be able to stretch over the ends and still be able to be stretched to give a nice tight appearance on the cable.
> 
> Here's what Lutro0 said in the FAQs:
> All that said, here's some SATA sized PET sleeve options:
> 
> http://mainframecustom.com/product-category/cable-sleeving/lc-teleios-sleeve/lc-teleios-8mmsata-sleeve/
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/10mm-sata-cable-sleeve/
> http://www.icemodz.com/#!/Sata-Sleeve/p/23562893/category=5474644
> =92&searchsubs=ON]http://www.moddiy.com/search.php?mode=1&search_query_adv=%22Sleeve+%2810mm%29%22&category[]=92&searchsubs=ON


Thanks,

The one on Dazmode looks the same as teleios. Gah I want the Moddiy one but I don't know if I want to wait that long, and pay $9 shipping for $5 worth of sleeving but I think that's closest to what I want. If all else fails i'll just buy the Bitfenix ones.


----------



## richie_2010

Thanks for your support guys. Just one more question.... do you know where i can get custom made corsair ax860 cables, i dont want extensions. I emailed e22 and had no reply


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> Thanks for your support guys. Just one more question.... do you know where i can get custom made corsair ax860 cables, i dont want extensions. I emailed e22 and had no reply


I am having the same with e22 ,I ordered bunch of wire wraps from him 15 days ago still no answer:/


----------



## richie_2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> I am having the same with e22 ,I ordered bunch of wire wraps from him 15 days ago still no answer:/


the small order i made came quite quick with free delivery, i may need to make another order though.
i got a reply back from e22 shortly after my last post. they advised me to speak to plexonj as they cant do custom sleeving


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> the small order i made came quite quick with free delivery, i may need to make another order though.
> i got a reply back from e22 shortly after my last post. they advised me to speak to plexonj as they cant do custom sleeving


ahhh ,after your reply i saw he sent me an email too but it was in my spam folder so i missed


----------



## charliebrown

I order from mainframes no issues and they good on shipping


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> Thanks for your support guys. Just one more question.... do you know where i can get custom made corsair ax860 cables, i dont want extensions. I emailed e22 and had no reply


Someone put me onto Ensourced, and I've had nothing but success with them so far. Could try them.


----------



## USMC Modder

Question for the people in this thread. I am trying to work on my pattern and color for my new build. The case is the blue and white Parvum S2.0. My ram is the Corsair Vengeance LPX in blue. I also have the blue o-rings for all my bitspower items. The blue from the o-rings and ram are a match for the colonial blue, but the case is a match for the electric blue. I am trying to decide on a sleeving pattern and color combination to tie everything together. Any ideas or opinions would be great. Below are some pictures of my build. I am also using Mayhem's pastel coolant. I bought the pastel white and some blue dye, so I can make it as dark as needed to match things.






Here is my current idea. http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/?p=54f5dad320c61


----------



## Himo5

How about centering your cable theme around a double strand of white and colonial blue enclosed in electric blue? Sorry about the quick dunk in PSP:


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> How about centering your cable theme around a double strand of white and colonial blue enclosed in electric blue? Sorry about the quick dunk in PSP:


I've been messing around with it lately and came up with these three.


----------



## snef

I like the first and third


----------



## Brian18741

I vote the first one!


----------



## USMC Modder

I ordered my cables from Ensourced and went with the third one. That was the most popular in my build log and among other people I asked. Thank you everyone who replied.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> I ordered my cables from Ensourced and went with the third one. That was the most popular in my build log and among other people I asked. Thank you everyone who replied.


Ordered mine too tonight:thumb:


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Ordered mine too tonight:thumb:


I took the easy way out and ordered cables this time. From what I've seen he does a really good job with them.


----------



## Murder3D

Teleios 4mm Black, Dark Grey & Grey + Teleios 8mm Dark Grey SATA


----------



## guitarhero23

Sexy SATA. Make me some white ones please


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Sexy SATA. Make me some white ones please


I'll take 5 blue ones.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Sexy SATA. Make me some white ones please


Done


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dude comeonnnnn don't be such a tease unless you're really going to sell me some. I can't find white sleeved with white heatshrink anywhere. It's all black heatshrink, those are sexy.

It'll fit the build in my sig very nicely. They don't even need to be long at all


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Dude comeonnnnn don't be such a tease unless you're really going to sell me some. I can't find white sleeved with white heatshrink anywhere. It's all black heatshrink, those are sexy.
> 
> It'll fit the build in my sig very nicely. They don't even need to be long at all


The hard part (in Australia anyway) was finding the actual white sata cables - so no bleed through the sleeve.


----------



## charliebrown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Murder3D*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Teleios 4mm Black, Dark Grey & Grey + Teleios 8mm Dark Grey SATA


love the sleeving what tubing are you using in your loop


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The hard part (in Australia anyway) was finding the actual white sata cables - so no bleed through the sleeve.


Thanks for nothing! I'm calling this "good enough" seeing how they will barely be seen except for being plugged into the MOBO. 85% of the cable will be hidden lol.

Also, no white heatsink


----------



## pez

From my experience, white heat shrink discolors over time, and if you don't shrink it with the right part of the lighter, you'll scorch it. Most of the cables I've worked with have black connectors, so I just feel the black blends in a bit better and if anything, smooths the appearance out of the blocky and uneven connectors.


----------



## Vynall

Does anyone know where to find 16 AWG wire here in Australia? Preferably South Australia.
SuperCheap sell Auto Wire but I don't know whether or not it's suitable for PSU cable sleeving and I really want my own custom length cables


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vynall*
> 
> Does anyone know where to find 16 AWG wire here in Australia? Preferably South Australia.
> SuperCheap sell Auto Wire but I don't know whether or not it's suitable for PSU cable sleeving and I really want my own custom length cables


I don't think Altronics is in SA - most other States








BUT try a similar type of Electronics store in Adelaide


----------



## Murder3D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> love the sleeving what tubing are you using in your loop


Thanks









I'm using PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 15,9 / 11,1mm - Elegant White

Marco


----------



## snef

Color theme for Green Carnage


----------



## soulwrath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Color theme for Green Carnage


wow that looks amazing, great job


----------



## snef

Thanks, but i will not take credit for this one, I only did the pump, I never tried paracord
this one is from Ensourced


----------



## Vynall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I don't think Altronics is in SA - most other States
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT try a similar type of Electronics store in Adelaide


But is auto wire the same? like Hook Up wire at 10 amps, would that be the equivalent to the wire you use for cables?


----------



## ivoryg37

I'm currently sleeving a silverstone modular power supply and I was wondering. Does anyone know what the secondary red wire is for? They are crimp together and both of them go into the same hole on both side. Would anything happen if I just got rid of the second red wire all together?


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vynall*
> 
> But is auto wire the same? like Hook Up wire at 10 amps, would that be the equivalent to the wire you use for cables?


Wire is wire, copper strands inside of insulation that moves electrons... The internal wire is still the same Gage.

The difference you may run into with say automotive wire vs standard wire is the insulation may be thicker or thinner, stiffer or softer, or rated at a different max temperature. Look at the stock wire that came on your power supply, you can get an idea of the total diameter with a basic set of calipers or micrometer then look for wire with the same outer diameter that is the same Gage that can handle 85-90*C and it should be just fine. Your stock wire may even have printed writing as to the temperature it can handle.


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I'm currently sleeving a silverstone modular power supply and I was wondering. Does anyone know what the secondary red wire is for? They are crimp together and both of them go into the same hole on both side. Would anything happen if I just got rid of the second red wire all together?


They generally run double wires to feed the same voltage to more than 1 pin on the MB side, yes they are needed, do not cut them. Lutro has a good how to on double wires, you just have to search for it.

Edit: Here ya go!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I'm currently sleeving a silverstone modular power supply and I was wondering. Does anyone know what the secondary red wire is for? They are crimp together and both of them go into the same hole on both side. Would anything happen if I just got rid of the second red wire all together?


The double 5V (red) is for voltage droop sensing and correcting. It's a kind of ohmmeter. The other red wires don't have this, so the unit compares the sense 5V with the pure 5V and corrects based on the difference.

If you replace it with a single red, then it won't sense any difference and won't correct droop on the 5V lines. However, this is not a problem on Silverstone units as they run well within the ATX spec even without the sense wires. Their own replacement cable sets like the PP05 don't have the sense wire either, but instead they have the same wires on all 5V.

My suggestion: don't cut off just the second thinner wire. Either use it as is, or replace all 5V wires with new 18 AWG off the same spool.


----------



## Himo5

How hot does a 24 pin cable ever get?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> How hot does a 24 pin cable ever get?


Depends on gauge of wire, length of wire, thickness of insulation, thickness of sleeve, which materials (wire/insulation/sleeve).

And most importantly how much current over how much time.

Why do you ask?


----------



## Himo5

I was considering using a sealant for double wires but it's only good for 60 degrees.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> I was considering using a sealant for double wires but it's only good for 60 degrees.


60 is pretty hot, it's enough to burn skin.

Obviously given the variety of variables and the complexity of the equation, there's no way to make a rule of thumb about wire temperatures.

Still, I'd be surprised if normal PSU currents in 18 AWG wires of under 2-3 feet would reach 60C. Especially if it's only the odd double-wire that you're planning to seal up.


----------



## Himo5

I've just noticed that UL1007 wire is printed 80 degrees, so 60 degrees isn't that far off, is it?

So it looks like Polymorph will do the trick. This is just as well: most glues are either too inflexible or too slow curing and hot glue doesn't have the same plasticine-like qualities of warm Polymorph.

Anyway, here's my version of Solderless, Shrinkless Double Wires.


----------



## WiSK

Interesting idea


----------



## emsj86

Anyone who has ordered from ensourced our the paracord more clothe. I ask because I have icemodZ cables and need anther set of gpu cables. Icemodz used mdpc. I was told before paracord is soft where mdpc is more rigid plastic shiney look. Maybe someone can let me know bc I want them to match obviously


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Anyone who has ordered from ensourced our the paracord more clothe. I ask because I have icemodZ cables and need anther set of gpu cables. Icemodz used mdpc. I was told before paracord is soft where mdpc is more rigid plastic shiney look. Maybe someone can let me know bc I want them to match obviously


Mine haven't arrived yet but definitely looks more like "clothy"


----------



## emsj86

Yea they look great. Def would have gone ensourced if my for having cables allready that were not paracord


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Yea they look great. Def would have gone ensourced if my for having cables allready that were not paracord


They're a good product and their customer service is good.


----------



## emsj86

Yea I think I'll use them next time. What I have now is Icemodz and I can't comai. About them he has always answered my emails and shipping is pretty good too


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Anyone who has ordered from ensourced our the paracord more clothe. I ask because I have icemodZ cables and need anther set of gpu cables. Icemodz used mdpc. I was told before paracord is soft where mdpc is more rigid plastic shiney look. Maybe someone can let me know bc I want them to match obviously


If you have MDPC sleeving you probably want to go with MAINFramecustoms and get the LC Teleios sleeving to match what you have the best. Paracord definitely looks different than plastic based sleeving.


----------



## snef

start working on cable and sleeving

less cable combs this time but I will remove all at the end


----------



## jthm4goth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Anyone who has ordered from ensourced our the paracord more clothe. I ask because I have icemodZ cables and need anther set of gpu cables. Icemodz used mdpc. I was told before paracord is soft where mdpc is more rigid plastic shiney look. Maybe someone can let me know bc I want them to match obviously


MDPC, UPC and other companies sell plastic base sleeve. The difference between that sleeve and paracord/550 cord is plastic sleeve uses plastic filliments served together to make the sleeve vs paracord that uses nylon stands weaved together to make the sleeve. For the best look and matching stick with plastic sleeve. The only issue you will run into is that the colors and weave tightness might not match exactly


----------



## mrtbahgs

I once saw that another reason to avoid paracord is that it doesn't last as long as plastic and the dust gets into it more so it wont look as good over time. I cant comment from experience though, anyone able to confirm/deny?


----------



## Timstuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> start working on cable and sleeving
> 
> less cable combs this time but I will remove all at the end


Damn that's classy.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> start working on cable and sleeving
> 
> less cable combs this time but I will remove all at the end
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That _*IS*_ classy. This is probably one of the most unique ideas for a PC design I've seen in a long time.


----------



## guitarhero23

A bit ghetto but if you're careful, apparentlyl it works.

Spray painting heatshrink.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

If I wanted to Make a 2 x 6pin connectors for the 980 EVGA Superclocked... Using 16Gauge Wire and I wanted to make a 2Ft Replacement cable for the 1300 EVGA G2 PSU.

Each "Pin" is 24" and I have 6pins per Connection. (Actually 12, 6 to the Gpu, 6 to the PSU)

So I would take 24" x 6 = 12Ft of Cable Per Connector.

24' = 2 x 6pin = 1 GPU Powered

Is this Correct?

The Cautious One ( Can I use the Wire from Home depot? )


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> If I wanted to Make a 2 x 6pin connectors for the 980 EVGA Superclocked... Using 16Gauge Wire and I wanted to make a 2Ft Replacement cable for the 1300 EVGA G2 PSU.
> 
> Each "Pin" is 24" and I have 6pins per Connection. (Actually 12, 6 to the Gpu, 6 to the PSU)
> 
> So I would take 24" x 6 = 12Ft of Cable Per Connector.
> 
> 24' = 2 x 6pin = 1 GPU Powered
> 
> Is this Correct?
> 
> The Cautious One ( Can I use the Wire from Home depot? )


Yes for the most part. You'll want to work in a margin for error of course. You don't want 24" of wire then make a mistake, cut an inch or two off then be short. You can use wire from anywhere as long as it's the proper gauge.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Felt the need to show off some incredible work that @pez did for me on some SATA cables. Check it out:



Spoiler: Expand for more sleeved awesomeness!


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Felt the need to show off some incredible work that @pez did for me on some SATA cables. Check it out:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Expand for more sleeved awesomeness!


Looks good nice and tight.


----------



## pez

Awh







.

You guys being all nice to me and stuff







.


----------



## abirli

past few weeks best shots.

http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U...t gen computers/IMG_5307_zpsr8zie1hz.jpg.html

http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U...t gen computers/IMG_5296_zpsnvtgtutf.jpg.html

http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U...a/phongs cables/IMG_5350_zps2fr9inlr.jpg.html

http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U.../dragans cables/IMG_5429_zps72hwzue4.jpg.html

http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U...a/martas cables/IMG_5374_zpst5wfhu8c.jpg.html

http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U...a/scotts cables/IMG_5357_zps5immsx1l.jpg.html


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> past few weeks best shots.
> 
> http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U...t gen computers/IMG_5307_zpsr8zie1hz.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U...t gen computers/IMG_5296_zpsnvtgtutf.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U...a/phongs cables/IMG_5350_zps2fr9inlr.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U.../dragans cables/IMG_5429_zps72hwzue4.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U...a/martas cables/IMG_5374_zpst5wfhu8c.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U...a/scotts cables/IMG_5357_zps5immsx1l.jpg.html


Very nice looking extensions there. You're work is amazing.


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Very nice looking extensions there. You're work is amazing.


thank you =)


----------



## nyk20z3

Does any one know where i can get single sata power cables that go directly to the PSU ?

I cant stand multi sata connector power cables,you can only utilize 1 or 2 connections depending on your power needs and its just excess wire.

Running a Silverstone Strider Gold 850 and i already checked there site and found nothing,maybe custom is the only way to go.


----------



## Zinic

Those look really nice abirli.

Does anyone have tips on how to fix this with my sleeving:

It seems like something sharp my have gotten to it and pulled some of these threads.


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zinic*
> 
> Those look really nice abirli.
> 
> Does anyone have tips on how to fix this with my sleeving:
> It seems like something sharp my have gotten to it and pulled some of these threads.


thanks man

and just cut the monofilamint off or singe it


----------



## BECHEZ

Hey Abirli What brand of sleeving are those? Looking to get some green and that looks just perfect for my impending build.

Sorry for the not quote clownage haven't posted on here often.


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BECHEZ*
> 
> Hey Abirli What brand odf sleeving are those? Looking to get some green and that looks just perfect for my impending build.
> 
> Sorry for the not quote clownage haven't posted on here often.


It's upc aegis


----------



## SiberianGhost

Abirli, awesome job! I love till the package.

How long is those extensions?


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SiberianGhost*
> 
> Abirli, awesome job! I love till the package.
> 
> How long is those extensions?


all of them except for the 2 green pci extenesions are 6"


----------



## wot

Hi guys,
Where I can get orange (gigabyte) sleeving since mdpc is down? Also is the e22/lutro dark grey same color as shade19 mdpc?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> Hi guys,
> Where I can get orange (gigabyte) sleeving since mdpc is down? Also is the e22/lutro dark grey same color as shade19 mdpc?


you can get mdpc from icemodz.com


----------



## wot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> you can get mdpc from icemodz.com


Yeah but there is no shade19 or mdpc orange, only uv orange and matte orange and I have sample from Nils color.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> Yeah but there is no shade19 or mdpc orange, only uv orange and matte orange and I have sample from Nils color.


then sorry i dont know any other place selling mdpc stuff


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> Yeah but there is no shade19 or mdpc orange, only uv orange and matte orange and I have sample from Nils color.


There is plenty of orange colour sleeving available from, e.g. UPC Aegis, Gosumodz Phalanx, Dazmode Darkside and Moddiy Deluxe.

Something like Shade19 is harder to find, maybe Darkside's Graphite or Gosumodz' Titan Grey is the darkest. I don't know for sure.


----------



## nyk20z3

What is the best way to go about sleeving a USB 3.0 cable such as the set Caselabs uses ?

From what i am seeing it might not be an option =/


----------



## abirli

youll either have to sleeve big enoght to fit over the 3.0 header, split the front casing and refuse it. or cut the wire and splice


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> youll either have to sleeve big enoght to fit over the 3.0 header, split the front casing and refuse it. or cut the wire and splice


Thanks for the insight but i don't think its even worth it lol,i recently seen another member do something similar so i was curious.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> What is the best way to go about sleeving a USB 3.0 cable such as the set Caselabs uses ?
> 
> From what i am seeing it might not be an option =/


The best tutorial I've ever seen was in cpachris BBBB build log.

Here's a link for you http://www.overclock.net/t/1266202/build-log-the-big-budget-boomer-box-aka-the-bbbb/2240#post_18447473


----------



## corysti

Yay or nah on this combination?


I already have some nice looking case but im not sure how to the current cables would look having the coolant the way i want it. white/black/neon green. its going in a pretty much all white build i have and ill have neon green coolant.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Yay or nah on this combination?
> 
> 
> I already have some nice looking case but im not sure how to the current cables would look having the coolant the way i want it. white/black/neon green. its going in a pretty much all white build i have and ill have neon green coolant.


It looks fine, just remember to get the same color on both the liquid and the cables and it should fit right in. Otherwise it may end up looking a bit missplaced.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Yay or nah on this combination?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I already have some nice looking case but im not sure how to the current cables would look having the coolant the way i want it. white/black/neon green. its going in a pretty much all white build i have and ill have neon green coolant.


Not saying that tube run from rad to RAM looks bad at all, you don't have them all done so I don't know how it fits with the rest but it might look really cool (more complex bend) and free up a lot of open viewing space in the middle of your case if you ran it like this:


----------



## emsj86

When ordering ensourced cables. Do you just ask to have the cable combs (the ones that can't be removed unless pins our removed) or do you buy the cables and the combs seperatly. I ask bc I don't see an option to have the made with it. Like here.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> When ordering ensourced cables...


Not sure if he posts here. Better to contact him directly with this sort of question.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> When ordering ensourced cables. Do you just ask to have the cable combs (the ones that can't be removed unless pins our removed) or do you buy the cables and the combs seperatly. I ask bc I don't see an option to have the made with it. Like here.


Well on the EVGA G2 page if you look in the description it says it comes with X amount per cable. Not sure if extensions are the same.


----------



## emsj86

Thanks I'll email him. Going to be for cm v1000 psu


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> When ordering ensourced cables. Do you just ask to have the cable combs (the ones that can't be removed unless pins our removed) or do you buy the cables and the combs seperatly. I ask bc I don't see an option to have the made with it. Like here.


Just email him. Nice guy. Always answer all my questions.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> When ordering ensourced cables. Do you just ask to have the cable combs (the ones that can't be removed unless pins our removed) or do you buy the cables and the combs seperatly. I ask bc I don't see an option to have the made with it. Like here.


He gives cable combs with all of his cables. If you order a custom cable replacement they come with 3. I think the extensions come with 2 of them. It gives you the option to choose which color of combs you want to get. You can order more individually if you want, but the way he does them you shouldn't need a bunch.


----------



## OffTheChart

any1 here crimped some DuPont pins? (HDD LED, PWR ON, RST)

which crimper did you use successfully?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> any1 here crimped some DuPont pins? (HDD LED, PWR ON, RST)
> 
> which crimper did you use successfully?


MDPC-X crimper of course


----------



## Rainmaker91

ok so... I have decided to go ahead and order my sleeving and all that and I will be making my own cables from the bottom up. I already have most tools needed as I have done quite a bit of electrical work prior to this, but I am missing the crimpers. I know a lot will tell me to order this and that, but since I live in Norway I do dread the thought of paying for Trans-Atlantic postage and the inevitable toll that will be on it. Thus I have found a couple in local stores that does look like they will work, but before getting them I would like some confirmation.

Can anyone take a look at these pictures and tell me if they at least look like they will do the trick?


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*


Out of those you listed the first blue ones look like they use the same dies as the snb-28 which will work. They dont make the best crimps out there but can do the job. i think with the longer winged terminals they may not make the bite, but not totally sure on that.

the orange and other blue ones will def. not work for these terminals.

a good crimper will be milled and make a bite into the cables


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> Out of those you listed the first blue ones look like they use the same dies as the snb-28 which will work. They dont make the best crimps out there but can do the job. i think with the longer winged terminals they may not make the bite, but not totally sure on that.
> 
> the orange and other blue ones will def. not work for these terminals.
> 
> a good crimper will be milled and make a bite into the cables


I'll give those a try then. If they don't make a proper bite I can always force it to make a proper bite with other tools, but I don't suspect it will be a massive problem when doing sleeveless cables that will be mostly stationary anyway.

I also found this thing at the same store, which is actually named "crimp pliers", but then there are many different crimpers.


----------



## dejahboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I'll give those a try then. If they don't make a proper bite I can always force it to make a proper bite with other tools, but I don't suspect it will be a massive problem when doing sleeveless cables that will be mostly stationary anyway.
> 
> I also found this thing at the same store, which is actually named "crimp pliers", but then there are many different crimpers.


Going back to your post with the variety of crimpers. The first 2 pictures are what you're looking for


----------



## Tiberiusisgame

Imperial red 550. The board I/O cables are all red filament.


----------



## emsj86

Noob question but what's a decent priced good tool for sata, atx and molex pin extraction. Also how do you know what size cable to get not length but width. I'm gonna get cables for my new psu but want to sleeve my mcp35x pp and some fans. Also would you recommend getting pins as well or do they not break much when removing using a tool. Also I have these two tools for work would thy work with crimping psu cables .


----------



## WiSK

Crimping tool, use only the best









@Rainmaker91 from Europe http://www.e22.biz/LCcrimper.aspx

@emsj86 from USA http://mainframecustom.com/shop/cable-sleeving/lc-ratchet-crimper/

It will last you for ever. I have two of Nils' version of this, one for normal pins, one for abusing like double wires and non-standard crimps. Both still working fine, making the 'bite' properly. Just needs occassional tightening.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Crimping tool, use only the best
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Rainmaker91 from Europe http://www.e22.biz/LCcrimper.aspx
> 
> @emsj86 from USA http://mainframecustom.com/shop/cable-sleeving/lc-ratchet-crimper/
> 
> It will last you for ever. I have two of Nils' version of this, one for normal pins, one for abusing like double wires and non-standard crimps. Both still working fine, making the 'bite' properly. Just needs occassional tightening.


Thanks man. Where our you buying your sleeving from? And is it paracord or plastic type. (USA for me) also I have the cm v1000 psu it has ribbon style cabling. Can I sleeve those cables by peeling them apart or will that not work


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Thanks man. Where our you buying your sleeving from? And is it paracord or plastic type. (USA for me) also I have the cm v1000 psu it has ribbon style cabling. Can I sleeve those cables by peeling them apart or will that not work


Use the crimper to make totally new cables, buy wire, connectors and pins. Then you can keep your original cables in case you make a mistake. Sleeving first time takes a while to learn, if you have the original cables then you can keep your rig running.

I used PET sleeving. After Nils closed up, I tried some local sleeving types here in Europe. Icelandic Icemodz, Polish modding.bit-tech.pl site and German Gosumodz. They are fine, but then I decided just to stop for a while. I'm focusing on renewing my MCSD certifications recently, so no spare time in the evenings anyway.


----------



## fast_fate

Chopped GT's


----------



## Vintage

Debating whether to sleeve myself for my build later this year or to order from somewhere like Ensourced...

The LC crimp tool being $50 makes ordering some extensions seems worth it. :s


----------



## Tiberiusisgame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> The LC crimp tool being $50 makes ordering some extensions seems worth it.
> :s


Although cost is certainly a factor, I think it's more a matter of the satisfaction you get from doing it yourself. Also, I paid $27 for the tool.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> The LC crimp tool being $50 makes ordering some extensions seems worth it. :s


If you are only ever going to sleeve one rig, then maybe.

I've had the crimper for years now and done countless PSUs. Also vital for sleeving fans, leds, watercooling pumps, anything with Dupont pins. Only PC-related pins it can't crimp are USB3 and the micro-PWM pins used on GPUs.

Here, something that extensions can't offer - fan wires sleeved and crimped together to make a Y-splitter


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> If you are only ever going to sleeve one rig, then maybe.
> 
> I've had the crimper for years now and done countless PSUs. Also vital for sleeving fans, leds, watercooling pumps, anything with Dupont pins. Only PC-related pins it can't crimp are USB3 and the micro-PWM pins used on GPUs.
> 
> Here, something that extensions can't offer - fan wires sleeved and crimped together to make a Y-splitter
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sweet


----------



## abirli

photo dump


----------



## WiSK

Fantastic sleeving and photos @abirli


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> photo dump
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Can i see the other end of that 8+6?

ok. I've the EVGA 850GS, thankfully no resistors/capacitors installed on the 24pin cable. just one double wire..

Now for the 8+6 PCI-E Cable.. PSU end is 8pin connector Delivering 8 Cables to a 6+2 Pin PCI-E connector that are daisy chained to 6 +2 pin Connector. which leaves me with two options.

1- Sleeve as is which will look auwful.
2- Make the cable from scratch and Y split them from the PSU end to dual connectors. "which means i'll have to buy cables, crimper, connectors" stuff i currently may not be able to afford.
3- Sleeve 4 PCI-E cables and ditch the daisy chaining which i'm not sure how to do.
4- OCN gives me a solution i don't see.

Thanks guys


----------



## Turbz

@Ramzinho It sounds like the daisy chaining is just a simple one-to-one replica of the PCIe power socket, which is not a good idea for a high end system anyway. Ideally you want to run independant cables to each socket to distribute the current across more wires.

What about building four extensions? Do you have four of these 'daisy chain' PCIe cables and the space to hide the original cables and connect extensions to them? That way you could build four extensions. Extensions are great because they are uninversal, rather than being custom tailored to a specific PSU. Obviously you're going to need wire/sleeve/crimper/pins but you'll get such a good feeling building them yourself, plus the tools to do the next set for dirt cheap!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Can i see the other end of that 8+6?
> 
> ok. I've the EVGA 850GS, thankfully no resistors/capacitors installed on the 24pin cable. just one double wire..
> 
> Now for the 8+6 PCI-E Cable.. PSU end is 8pin connector Delivering 8 Cables to a 6+2 Pin PCI-E connector that are daisy chained to 6 +2 pin Connector. which leaves me with two options.
> 
> 1- Sleeve as is which will look auwful.
> 2- Make the cable from scratch and Y split them from the PSU end to dual connectors. "which means i'll have to buy cables, crimper, connectors" stuff i currently may not be able to afford.
> 3- Sleeve 4 PCI-E cables and ditch the daisy chaining which i'm not sure how to do.
> 4- OCN gives me a solution i don't see.
> 
> Thanks guys


not sure how the GS is in regards to how the cables are done but EVGA finished their G2/P2 indivudually sleeved cables in this way:

- the 6+8 pin cables are finished with a split at the VGA end of the cable
- the 8 pin is actually just direct 8 pin cables, but whether or not you finish yours of like that is dependent on how many PCI-e connectors you have on the PSU side.

From a quick look at some pictures of the 850gs I can see that there are 4-5 available connections for pci-e on the PSU side thus I would simply make each and every cable a direct pin to pin.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> not sure how the GS is in regards to how the cables are done but EVGA finished their G2/P2 indivudually sleeved cables in this way:
> 
> - the 6+8 pin cables are finished with a split at the VGA end of the cable
> - the 8 pin is actually just direct 8 pin cables, but whether or not you finish yours of like that is dependent on how many PCI-e connectors you have on the PSU side.
> 
> From a quick look at some pictures of the 850gs I can see that there are 4-5 available connections for pci-e on the PSU side thus I would simply make each and every cable a direct pin to pin.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> @Ramzinho It sounds like the daisy chaining is just a simple one-to-one replica of the PCIe power socket, which is not a good idea for a high end system anyway. Ideally you want to run independant cables to each socket to distribute the current across more wires.
> 
> What about building four extensions? Do you have four of these 'daisy chain' PCIe cables and the space to hide the original cables and connect extensions to them? That way you could build four extensions. Extensions are great because they are uninversal, rather than being custom tailored to a specific PSU. Obviously you're going to need wire/sleeve/crimper/pins but you'll get such a good feeling building them yourself, plus the tools to do the next set for dirt cheap!


Thanks guys. i'll consider everything you said. and i'll try to even make my cables . i think i'll give it a shot at this cheap crimper...: thing now i need to find cheap pins.


----------



## Vintage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiberiusisgame*
> 
> Although cost is certainly a factor, I think it's more a matter of the satisfaction you get from doing it yourself. Also, I paid $27 for the tool.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> If you are only ever going to sleeve one rig, then maybe.
> 
> I've had the crimper for years now and done countless PSUs. Also vital for sleeving fans, leds, watercooling pumps, anything with Dupont pins. Only PC-related pins it can't crimp are USB3 and the micro-PWM pins used on GPUs.
> 
> Here, something that extensions can't offer - fan wires sleeved and crimped together to make a Y-splitter


Thanks for the input... have a while to decide









Also, where did your get the LC crimper for $27? Ebay?


----------



## Tiberiusisgame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> Thanks for the input... have a while to decide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, where did your get the LC crimper for $27? Ebay?


Amazon
HT-225D Full Cycle Ratchet Crimping Tool with interchangeable die set HT-225D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JLN93S/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_EALwvb1XCBDAV


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiberiusisgame*
> 
> Amazon
> HT-225D Full Cycle Ratchet Crimping Tool with interchangeable die set HT-225D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JLN93S/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_EALwvb1XCBDAV


FYI Thats not the LC Crimper. Its a different one that perfpc and frozen sell. Its an ok crimper but most of the time when I used it - it folded over the wings instead of biting them down.


----------



## Tiberiusisgame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> FYI Thats not the LC Crimper. Its a different one that perfpc and frozen sell. Its an ok crimper but most of the time when I used it - it folded over the wings instead of biting them down.


@Lutro

You're absolutely correct. This is not the LC crimper and it does fold over my crimps sometimes, causing a banana effect. But I've learned to live with it. If I don't follow through with the crimp entirely, it comes out alright. In retrospect, I would have preferred to buy the more expensive tool, but I cringe at spending money that doesn't directly equate to GHz. This is an "acceptable" cheaper alternative.


----------



## ozzy1925

i received my mdpc x sleeving from icemodz :


----------



## nyk20z3

Sick Bro


----------



## abirli

got a request for a Pokemon Charizard set



http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U...rs/media/j ryan/IMG_5585_zpsu2u2r7ia.jpg.html

http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U...rs/media/j ryan/IMG_5571_zpsfsnbqgpz.jpg.html

http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/U...rs/media/j ryan/IMG_5569_zpspwhmurdf.jpg.html


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Sick Bro


thanks, they look fantastic


----------



## ozzy1925

what size heatshrink i need for sata cables 12mm or larger?


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> what size heatshrink i need for sata cables 12mm or larger?


1/2" is what i use


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> 1/2" is what i use


you mean 1/2 inch :12.7mm?


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> you mean 1/2 inch :12.7mm?


Yes.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> Yes.


and for the fans?


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> and for the fans?


I use the same size but you vsn get away with smaller

Regular 1/4" at the motor.


----------



## Tracti

finally got around to doing sone cables for my gpu they come up pretty good i rekon


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> I use the same size but you vsn get away with smaller
> 
> Regular 1/4" at the motor.


thanks alot, also can i use white insulation tape for hiding the black wire under the white sleeve?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks alot, also can i use white insulation tape for hiding the black wire under the white sleeve?


You can do this by making sure you cut the tape vertically and try to use as little as possible. However please note that this will stiffen the cable and make the diameter slightly thicker and make it slightly harder to sleeve depending on how much grip the electrical tape has. I have also noticed that when people use this method and don't make sure that the sleeve is stretched all the way that the electrical tape will lose it adhesive properties onto the wire and expand slightly over time - while its hard to notice it is noticeable after a while.

Your best bet here for regular PSU cables is to either make some white cables from scratch if you have the tools or have one of the many sleeving shops simply make you pre-crimped wires which most of us do offer anyhow. This will be by far your best bet.

And for Sata Data - finding colored ones is a little harder but they can be found on ebay and specialty sleeving shops.

But all in all the tape method does work if you take the time to do it properly.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks alot, also can i use white insulation tape for hiding the black wire under the white sleeve?


Sure.

I've even used orange tape when I've done my orange wires.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Sure.
> 
> I've even used orange tape when I've done my orange wires.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -snip0-


I love how vibrant using the same colored wire or cable under the sleeving can make the colors! Good Job Knuckles!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> You can do this by making sure you cut the tape vertically and try to use as little as possible. However please note that this will stiffen the cable and make the diameter slightly thicker and make it slightly harder to sleeve depending on how much grip the electrical tape has. I have also noticed that when people use this method and don't make sure that the sleeve is stretched all the way that the electrical tape will lose it adhesive properties onto the wire and expand slightly over time - while its hard to notice it is noticeable after a while.
> 
> Your best bet here for regular PSU cables is to either make some white cables from scratch if you have the tools or have one of the many sleeving shops simply make you pre-crimped wires which most of us do offer anyhow. This will be by far your best bet.
> 
> And for Sata Data - finding colored ones is a little harder but they can be found on ebay and specialty sleeving shops.
> 
> But all in all the tape method does work if you take the time to do it properly.


Thats what i was worried about last night i did try my black sata cable and one of the I/O cable with this method before reading your post:

1 cable is with the tape and other 2 without tape


as you see the tape one looks very nice and more white (cant tell from the picture) but as you mentioned i think it will get stiff after some time and tape will loose its adhesive ,i can try to get a white sata cable but i need to sleeve my I/O cables and fan cables (all black and other colors) and i dont have any soldering experience .I think putting the tape vertically will make it more safe

edit:here is vertical one but this time tape width is smaller than the cable so i need to cover both sides .Should i get a bigger tape or its ok too?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Thats what i was worried about last night i did try my black sata cable and one of the I/O cable with this method before reading your post:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1 cable is with the tape and other 2 without tape
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as you see the tape one looks very nice and more white (cant tell from the picture) but as you mentioned i think it will get stiff after some time and tape will loose its adhesive ,i can try to get a white sata cable but i need to sleeve my I/O cables and fan cables (all black and other colors) and i dont have any soldering experience .I think putting the tape vertically will make it more safe
> 
> edit:here is vertical one but this time tape width is smaller than the cable so i need to cover both sides .Should i get a bigger tape or its ok too?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think you are better off just masking the connectors and spray painting (from an aerosol can to keep price down of course







)the cable. I know for a fact that there are paints that work fine on flexible plastics, and such a paint would not degrade in the same way a piece of tape would. Then again if you would have to buy paint I guess the gain would go up in smokes considering the price of the paint it may be better just to buy coloured SATA cables.


----------



## Tracti

Finished my sleeving just need to find some cable combs


----------



## TrikStari

Does ANYONE know where one could find UV orange cable sleeving?

I tried MDPC-X but their website appears to be broken, as clicking on anything, does nothing. I've been looking for a while now, and can't seem to find anyone that still makes pre-sleeved UV power supply cables (not extensions), So I've decided that my only choice is to make them myself.


----------



## abirli

some new photos. picked up a 50mm lens and an extension tube. dang that 1.8f is tightttt some of the wider ones were with the stock 18-55 with extension tube


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrikStari*
> 
> Does ANYONE know where one could find UV orange cable sleeving?
> 
> I tried MDPC-X but their website appears to be broken, as clicking on anything, does nothing. I've been looking for a while now, and can't seem to find anyone that still makes pre-sleeved UV power supply cables (not extensions), So I've decided that my only choice is to make them myself.


MDPC-X has been closed for at least six months.

Mainframe computers has some orange here
http://mainframecustom.com/product-category/cable-sleeving/lc-coreless-paracord/page/2/


----------



## ozzy1925

edit nvm...


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrikStari*
> 
> Does ANYONE know where one could find UV orange cable sleeving?
> 
> I tried MDPC-X but their website appears to be broken, as clicking on anything, does nothing. I've been looking for a while now, and can't seem to find anyone that still makes pre-sleeved UV power supply cables (not extensions), So I've decided that my only choice is to make them myself.


Yep closed for some time.

I have these stashed away for future projects from MDPC-X, but unfortunately no orange, or I would maybe have hooked you up.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrikStari*
> 
> Does ANYONE know where one could find UV orange cable sleeving?
> 
> I tried MDPC-X but their website appears to be broken, as clicking on anything, does nothing. I've been looking for a while now, and can't seem to find anyone that still makes pre-sleeved UV power supply cables (not extensions), So I've decided that my only choice is to make them myself.


This looks nice. They're located in the UK.


http://www.cables4pc.co.uk/Orange-UV-Sleeve

Here's some at Aquatuning US/Canada
http://www.aquatuning.us/modding/flex-sleeves/8358/phobya-flex-sleeve-3mm-1/8-uv-orange-1m?c=6672


----------



## nyk20z3

Any one know of a place who sells pre crimped cables ?, lutro sells them but with a female and male end. I am looking for a female end on both sides so it's pnp as I pull cables off my Silerstone psu.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Any one know of a place who sells pre crimped cables ?, lutro sells them but with a female and male end. I am looking for a female end on both sides so it's pnp as I pull cables off my Silerstone psu.


i'm pretty sure u can ask lutroo to make them both female ends.


----------



## nyk20z3

I will ask and see if its possible.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Custom Cables From @abirli at Ultimatepersonalcomputers.com!!





Going to take some better shots with Dad's Nikon Tom!

TCO


----------



## emsj86

@tco is His sleeving is paracord ?


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> @tco is His sleeving is paracord ?


Nope, it's PET.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> @tco is His sleeving is paracord ?


Here! I took a couple Close ups on Sat Night.





TCO


----------



## emsj86

Just gonna print some of these pictures out and "leave" the. Around the house. Maybe the wife will get the Father's Day present hint lol


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Just gonna print some of these pictures out and "leave" the. Around the house. Maybe the wife will get the Father's Day present hint lol


Good luck with that bud....


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> Good luck with that bud....


A man can dream.......


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> A man can dream.......


The next thing you hear is "Honey, why is my screensaver a bunch of cables?"


----------



## emsj86

Exactly cell phone computer , digital frames all cables lol


----------



## Rainmaker91

So... I got my sleeving in the mail yesterday and now I just need cables to sleeve







I know people say 18AWG and 16AWG, but since I'm in Europe the only cables that are readily available are measuered in mm². Since I'm doing all new cables I do want to make sure I get the correct sizes, but I also see that I can get 1.5 mm² calbes fairly cheap at a local store, but I am unsure how well 15AWG calbes would work with the connectors and sleeving and all that.

Anyone have any pointers? or should I go with 16AWG/1.3mm² cables instead and just order online for those?

Edit: I see that 16AWG cables will cost me about 1.27USD per meter which to me seems unessesarily high hwen I can get 15AWG wire for 0.45USD per meter and 18AWG is cheaper then that again.


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> So... I got my sleeving in the mail yesterday and now I just need cables to sleeve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know people say 18AWG and 16AWG, but since I'm in Europe the only cables that are readily available are measuered in mm². Since I'm doing all new cables I do want to make sure I get the correct sizes, but I also see that I can get 1.5 mm² calbes fairly cheap at a local store, but I am unsure how well 15AWG calbes would work with the connectors and sleeving and all that.
> 
> Anyone have any pointers? or should I go with 16AWG/1.3mm² cables instead and just order online for those?
> 
> Edit: I see that 16AWG cables will cost me about 1.27USD per meter which to me seems unessesarily high hwen I can get 15AWG wire for 0.45USD per meter and 18AWG is cheaper then that again.


Just go with the 18AWG, it's really all that is necessary. It's all I have ever used is 18AWG. 15AWG seems way to big.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> Just go with the 18AWG, it's really all that is necessary. It's all I have ever used is 18AWG. 15AWG seems way to big.


I'll just order up some 1.0mm² then since it's cheaper then 18AWG (18AWG is 0.8230mm² while 17AWG is 1.0378mm²), seems like a good compromise between the two sizes.


----------



## WiSK

@Rainmaker91
European sleevers mostly use 0.75mm2
I've been using it for years, never any issues


----------



## Ramzinho

Hi guys. i've got a H05V-K 1mm cable with .6mm insulation and Max. DC Resistance at 20°C is 19.5ohm / km and 10amp current rating? Is that ok?


----------



## Tiberiusisgame

Hey all, don't know if anyone has tried this before, but I was getting kind of frustrated with my cable management every time I took the side panel off my case. In particular, the fact that half the connections on my motherboard are angled at 90º for cleaner cable management, but the other half are not. I scavenged through some throw-away electronics until I found a standoff that would work with USB 2.0 and front panel control headers and I think they do the job nicely.

Here's an example of the headers with (on the right) and without (on the left) the standoff. I think this is definitely worth doing. My board comes with an angled USB 3.0, but not 2.0. I mean, why?







I've ordered several more standoffs to complete the job. What do you all think of this?


----------



## knightobvious

Hey guys will this crimp be suffice as I can't afford a MDPC or LC crimp because the cost to ship to my place is expensive.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knightobvious*
> 
> Hey guys will this crimp be suffice as I can't afford a MDPC or LC crimp because the cost to ship to my place is expensive.


I have that exact crimper (I think) and used it for years. It looks very much like the one I got from Lutro0 customs. I still use it sometimes, but I must admit, now that I have one from MDPC-X, I use it less and less. It still is a very good crimper though. The thing is, if you notice those 2 screws by the jaws, that is where you can adjust the crimp, and a lot of what makes the MDPC-X crimper so good was that Nils adjusted them PERFECTLY for each crimper. I can't remember if Mike (Lutro0) did that, and if you got it from another source, odds are they weren't set "perfectly".


----------



## knightobvious

Alright thanks!


----------



## Jinto

So I started up another sleeving project today and for the first time I began to use 16AWG wire that I ordered from Lutro's store. I already had the MDPC crimping tool on hand so I figured I'd just use that. However my crimps aren't biting very well and it's getting quite annoying. I shouldn't be surprised since 18-22 AWG is the rated range on the crimper. Might I be able to modify the crimper in such a way as to achieve better bites on the 16 AWG wire? Or perhaps, is standard 18 AWG wire utilizing the heatshrink-less method sufficient enough?


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinto*
> 
> ... Or perhaps, is standard 18 AWG wire utilizing the heatshrink-less method sufficient enough?


Yes, it really is...


----------



## nyk20z3

Is 18 AWG the standard on all PSU or do some mix in 16 AWG as well ?

I am about to order a bunch of pre crimped cables from Lutro and from what i am reading, my main power cables 24 pin, pci e etc are 16 AWG where Peripheral cables are 18 AWG. Also what is the best method to remove 4 pin pwm cables from fans ?, i don't see any tools on Lutro's site to do it.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Is 18 AWG the standard on all PSU or do some mix in 16 AWG as well ?
> 
> I am about to order a bunch of pre crimped cables from Lutro and from what i am reading, my main power cables 24 pin, pci e etc are 16 AWG where Peripheral cables are 18 AWG. Also what is the best method to remove 4 pin pwm cables from fans ?, i don't see any tools on Lutro's site to do it.


There's no need, electrically, for 16 AWG. Especially ATX and PCIe are designed for less than 4 amps per wire. If by "peripheral cables" you mean the Mate-n-Lok fat 4-pin that is probably the only place that a 16 AWG might be useful. Since it has only a single wire for 12V then obviously all the current is going through that wire. For example a fan controller or a water cooling pump that is powered by a single cable.

Use a small flatheaded jeweller's screwdriver to remove fan pins. Don't force them however, due to the design they can be bent out of shape easily.


----------



## Tiberiusisgame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiberiusisgame*
> 
> Hey all, don't know if anyone has tried this before, but I was getting kind of frustrated with my cable management every time I took the side panel off my case. In particular, the fact that half the connections on my motherboard are angled at 90º for cleaner cable management, but the other half are not. I scavenged through some throw-away electronics until I found a standoff that would work with USB 2.0 and front panel control headers and I think they do the job nicely.
> 
> I think this is definitely worth doing. My board comes with an angled USB 3.0, but not 2.0. I mean, why?
> I've ordered several more standoffs to complete the job. What do you all think of this?


And here's the completed job.


----------



## Natskyge

I was looking at buying the silverstone strider plus 850w since it seemed to have 1:1 wires, however it also seems it has capasitators on the wires and heard you can Cut them off. Would i be fine with JUST cutting them of no soldering on anything of that sort required?. If not would the coolermaster v850 be a good alternative to sleeve for a first timer?


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiberiusisgame*
> 
> And here's the completed job.


Looks good!


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Nice and clean.


----------



## Tiberiusisgame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *350 Malibu*
> 
> Looks good!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Nice and clean.


Thank you, gentlemen. Now I have to decide whether I want to sew the cables or continue to use the cable collars from Mainframecustoms, which I picked up during the original build but didn't get enough of and now they're consistently out of stock. I guess they have a local guy who turns these on his 3D printer. I've also had a change of heart about the Paracord and I happen to have a pile of red, white and black PET that I ordered before... guys, I think I'm starting to realize I might have a disease. I get antsy at work thinking about working on my system. I don't really even want to play it that much, just make tweaks and changes. Is there a support group for this, because everyone here is an enabler!







.


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiberiusisgame*
> 
> I think I'm starting to realize I might have a disease. I get antsy at work thinking about working on my system. I don't really even want to play it that much, just make tweaks and changes. Is there a support group for this, because everyone here is an enabler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I use to have that problem, but once I realized I had almost $6000 into my system (this was 3 years ago on my 3960X build) I knew I was and addict and was forced to kick the habit due to a drained checking account. Happended a second time when I put together my 50TB Storage server (hard drives aren't cheap). Unfortunately I'm starting to feel the bug again as all this new hardware keeps coming out.

Guess what i'm saying is no, there is no cure and I still have the problem...


----------



## ozzy1925

i have ordered Φ 12.7mm 1/2" heatshrink from moddiy.com and this size has come:
http://i.hizliresim.com/rQD5Zm.jpg
is this normal ?


----------



## emsj86

The itch to continue and upgrade is real be ware


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i have ordered Φ 12.7mm 1/2" heatshrink from moddiy.com and this size has come:
> http://i.hizliresim.com/rQD5Zm.jpg
> is this normal ?


What are you heatshrinking? If that is 2 inches I'd say no, that isn't normal.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> What are you heatshrinking? If that is 2 inches I'd say no, that isn't normal.


i wanted heatshrink for the sata cable and ordered this:
http://www.moddiy.com/products/Premium-Double%252dWall-3%3A1-Heat-Shrinkable-Tubing-Φ-12.7mm-1%7B47%7D2".html
I dont know if i measure the size wrong but its almost 20mm


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i wanted heatshrink for the sata cable and ordered this:
> http://www.moddiy.com/products/Premium-Double%252dWall-3%3A1-Heat-Shrinkable-Tubing-Φ-12.7mm-1%7B47%7D2".html
> I dont know if i measure the size wrong but its almost 20mm


The link you provided didn't show what you've ordered for some reason. Well I believe you're right about using 1/2 inch for sata. I'm guessing anything smaller would be hard to get over the connectors. If memory serves me well, when ordering heatshrink it's advertised size should be before heatshrinking. The stuff you have looks like it could handle all of the wires of the 24-pin with ease lol.


----------



## Rainmaker91

So... I was removing the cables from my 34 pin to sleeve them and I managed to break my "depinning" tool... Since I'm not about to pay a boatload for a new one let alone wait for a couple of weeks to get it either I was wondering if anyone have any links for the staple method, or some other that will work as well or better. This really put a damper on my plans so I'm asking here since I know that there are a ton of other people in this thread that have done exactly what I am doing right now, and for my part it would be a lot faster to learn from others experiences then to reinvent eh wheel myself so to say.

Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> So... I was removing the cables from my 34 pin to sleeve them and I managed to break my "depinning" tool... Since I'm not about to pay a boatload for a new one let alone wait for a couple of weeks to get it either I was wondering if anyone have any links for the staple method, or some other that will work as well or better. This really put a damper on my plans so I'm asking here since I know that there are a ton of other people in this thread that have done exactly what I am doing right now, and for my part it would be a lot faster to learn from others experiences then to reinvent eh wheel myself so to say.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.


*This* might help. I hope the images are clear enough.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> *This* might help. I hope the images are clear enough.


Thank you I'll give that a try tomorrow then, hopefully I can finally get done disassembling this stuff so I can get to the sweet sleeving itself.


----------



## nyk20z3

Any news on when MDPC will re open ?, its been like a year now.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Any news on when MDPC will re open ?, its been like a year now.


I sent an email to MDPC several months ago asking when they would be reopening, and just received an automated response that they were closed.

In another thread from last week, someone mentioned sending them an email about when they would be back and they actually received a response back of some time in August.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> The link you provided didn't show what you've ordered for some reason. Well I believe you're right about using 1/2 inch for sata. I'm guessing anything smaller would be hard to get over the connectors. If memory serves me well, when ordering heatshrink it's advertised size should be before heatshrinking. The stuff you have looks like it could handle all of the wires of the 24-pin with ease lol.


thanks i skip those very tired after 2 days of non stop sleeving :
sata cables are from lutroo others are mdpc-x
http://i.hizliresim.com/NqXLaY.jpg
for some reason i cant upload pictures anybody having the same issue?


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I sent an email to MDPC several months ago asking when they would be reopening, and just received an automated response that they were closed.
> 
> In another thread from last week, someone mentioned sending them an email about when they would be back and they actually received a response back of some time in August.


Glad to hear and in the mean time i think icemodz stocks some mdpc stuff.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Glad to hear and in the mean time i think icemodz stocks some mdpc stuff.


Sadly, no one has the MDPC Orange.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Sadly, no one has the MDPC Orange.


Check ocn market place cooling section. Saw the other day I guy selling a good amount of mdpc sleeving. Not sure if he had orange. But worth a look


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Check ocn market place cooling section. Saw the other day I guy selling a good amount of mdpc sleeving. Not sure if he had orange. But worth a look


Thanks for the suggestion. +Rep


----------



## exodus1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> So... I was removing the cables from my 34 pin to sleeve them and I managed to break my "depinning" tool... Since I'm not about to pay a boatload for a new one let alone wait for a couple of weeks to get it either I was wondering if anyone have any links for the staple method, or some other that will work as well or better. This really put a damper on my plans so I'm asking here since I know that there are a ton of other people in this thread that have done exactly what I am doing right now, and for my part it would be a lot faster to learn from others experiences then to reinvent eh wheel myself so to say.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.


What I did when I was messing around, was slide a piece of shrink tube over the wire(about a half inch long). Slide it about half on the wire, then take a lighter directly to the tip of the shrink tube. it will melt and mold the shrink tube to a rounded tip. Thread the wire through, remove the tip and put it on the new wire. if your shrink tube is too loose, you can heat it a little to snug up on to the wire.


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion. +Rep


I just checked that thread and it looks like all the MDPC might be sold.


----------



## emsj86

Sorry to hear that I saw it awhile back. Figure it was worth a shot that sucks. I think I finally will sleeve my own cables and not have the. Made. I have the cm v1000 with the ribbon cables. What size sleeving do you guys use. Also what size for 3/4 pin fans. Thanks in advance. Also what brand (I don't want paracord I want something similar to mdpc style )


----------



## exodus1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> I just checked that thread and it looks like all the MDPC might be sold.


I know you are looking for the MDPC, but here is a review I did of some paracord. Since I was interested in orange, I have 3 different colors of it.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1518831/paracord-reviews-mr-paracord-and-paracord-planet-reviewed


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Sorry to hear that I saw it awhile back. Figure it was worth a shot that sucks. I think I finally will sleeve my own cables and not have the. Made. I have the cm v1000 with the ribbon cables. What size sleeving do you guys use. Also what size for 3/4 pin fans. Thanks in advance. Also what brand (I don't want paracord I want something similar to mdpc style )


I have personally used Teleios and have some sleeving being done now in Aegis. They are both high quality and will be similar to MDPC!


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks i skip those very tired after 2 days of non stop sleeving :
> sata cables are from lutroo others are mdpc-x
> http://i.hizliresim.com/NqXLaY.jpg
> for some reason i cant upload pictures anybody having the same issue?


Looks like you got everything sorted out? Nice work!


----------



## nyk20z3

Sleeved my Enermax Magmas in Teleios Red. I might switch back to these fans down the road depending upon how i feel about the Green fans i am running now. I am always changing my mind with stuff and some times changing things up color wise doesn't always work out


----------



## emsj86

Is there anyone whom will sleeve an entire psu. Two sets of 8 pin gpu, 3 sets 6 pin gpu, mobo 24pin, 8 pin cpu, sata cables for hdd, sata cables power for hdd. For a cm v1000?


----------



## nyk20z3

Visit ultimatepersonalcomputers.com and contact them.


----------



## Natskyge

Good news everyone i just got a mail form Nils from MDPC-X saying he expects to open in september!


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Natskyge*
> 
> Good news everyone i just got a mail form Nils from MDPC-X saying he expects to open in september!


AWESOME!

I am out of Orange, and that will be my first order when they open!


----------



## nyk20z3

24 Pin done by Abrili -


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Yay or nah on this combination?
> 
> 
> I already have some nice looking case but im not sure how to the current cables would look having the coolant the way i want it. white/black/neon green. its going in a pretty much all white build i have and ill have neon green coolant.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*


Please tell me those are displacement maps.


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Please tell me those are displacement maps.


Haha nah man, they're individual thin cylinders. The weaving pattern is not totally true to life though, I couldn't pull it off, I just did my best to approximate it haha


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Haha nah man, they're individual thin cylinders. The weaving pattern is not totally true to life though, I couldn't pull it off, I just did my best to approximate it haha


You, sir, are anal.


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> You, sir, are anal.


----------



## mordocai rp

hey guys, I was gone for about a year now and have not been keeping up. I saw a few pages ago MDPC closed down for a bit?
Also I have 10M of each Aquamarine blue/titanium grey sleeve and then some red/white (12in strips I think, will measure and such) that I would be wanted to get rid of as I don't have the time or patience to sleeve anymore.
Would mdpc crimpers / mdpc sleeve sell on the marketplace still?


----------



## geort45

I bet man, since MDPC is still down they'll sell fast, go for it









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wnipper

_edit:_ Nevermind. I came in from the front page to say that MNPC is down, only to see that the last 5 or so posts has said that exact thing. Sorry.


----------



## alltheGHz

Guys- help

So I wanna sleeve some cables, but I'm worried that I'm gonna plug the wrong cable into the wrong port on connector. How to you go about making sure you connected the wire into the right two ports?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys- help
> 
> So I wanna sleeve some cables, but I'm worried that I'm gonna plug the wrong cable into the wrong port on connector. How to you go about making sure you connected the wire into the right two ports?


They make little stickers with numbers, or get white tape and hand write them. Just make sure you print out and follow the wiring diagrams. I like to double check with a multimeter one last time when the cables are all assembled before I plug in and apply power.


----------



## alltheGHz

OK, let me reword this;

Do the cables go straight across and into the other connector? or do some of the cables overlap one another and cross each others paths?
Is there any way to test the cable to assure I connected the cables correctly?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> OK, let me reword this;
> 
> Do the cables go straight across and into the other connector? or do some of the cables overlap one another and cross each others paths?
> Is there any way to test the cable to assure I connected the cables correctly?


Everytime I take a picture of the connector before start sleeving


----------



## Wolfsbora

I've made a color coded spreadsheet in Excel to map out the connectors. Especially considering EVGA's habit of confusingly doing their connectors.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> OK, let me reword this;
> 
> Do the cables go straight across and into the other connector? or do some of the cables overlap one another and cross each others paths?
> Is there any way to test the cable to assure I connected the cables correctly?


This may help. http://www.overclock.net/t/1420796/repository-of-power-supply-pin-outs. Make a spreadsheet or drawing for your specific power supply. If you know how to use a cheap multimeter you can check your cable from end to end, and if you short out the green to black, your power supply will turn on unplugged and you can check voltages.


----------



## alltheGHz

@k16mk6, wow, thanks for the feedback, that totally worked!! Thank you to everyone else, cleared up a lot of issues


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> OK, let me reword this;
> 
> Do the cables go straight across and into the other connector? or do some of the cables overlap one another and cross each others paths?
> Is there any way to test the cable to assure I connected the cables correctly?


If you have a meter or volt meter that checks ohms / continuity you can to be certain out one lead on the one end and the other in the other end if it steady beeps boom same wire. Edit: ninja I deserve that as I didn't read the next page


----------



## emsj86

What size sleeving do I need to sleeve 3 or 4 pin fans (want to use one single sleeve) and what size heat shrink (2 to 1 ratio?). Thanks in advance. Also in the market soon for custom Erving for my psu cables cooler master v1000 any suggestions who to go for for non paracord Icemodz I saw was on vacation


----------



## Himo5

It depends on the wire gauge being used. There was a time when most fans were supplied with 24g(7/0,2mm) wire, but designer fans for larger cases often come now with 22g wire. With this in mind you would usually assume 4mm sleeve for a 4-wire PWM cable, but this can often look very slack on thinner wires although it is easier to sleeve. However, a 4-wire 24g cable sleeved in 3mm PET the same size as a ATX line makes a good taut cable easy to shape in a smaller case.


----------



## mordocai rp

if anyone is looking to buy an mdpc-x crimper and some select color sleeving take a look in the trade section


----------



## emsj86

Could I get a link to abirils store


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Could I get a link to abirils store


here you go!


----------



## khemist

Some extensions from Pexon, still need 1 x 8 pin pcie.


----------



## abirli

been a while since i made a post, please enjoy some recently completed sets!


----------



## kitg90

Those cables are so nice


----------



## emsj86

That second picture in is exactly what I need. Well maybe the grey changed for white but the pattern and blue and black our perfect


----------



## emsj86

For a white case interior , black rads fans and exterior of case. With blue memorey and coolant. First it second. .


----------



## alltheGHz

I vote second.


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> For a white case interior , black rads fans and exterior of case. With blue memorey and coolant. First it second. .


3D preview for you buddy


----------



## alltheGHz

How did you do that??


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> How did you do that??


3ds max and OCD


----------



## yoi

... i tried it in Solidworks :

i looked over the internet for a texture of paracord ... it kinda "works" .. but didnt look good up close









... is that how u did it , with a texture? or u actually did the strands?


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoi*
> 
> ... i tried it in Solidworks :
> 
> i looked over the internet for a texture of paracord ... it kinda "works" .. but didnt look good up close
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... is that how u did it , with a texture? or u actually did the strands?


I did the strands, however I couldn't replicate the pattern, so I just tried to fill out the gaps. I'll post closeup


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoi*
> 
> ... i tried it in Solidworks :
> 
> i looked over the internet for a texture of paracord ... it kinda "works" .. but didnt look good up close
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... is that how u did it , with a texture? or u actually did the strands?


----------



## sinnedone

First time using paracord for sleeving, and I must say I rather like it.











I'm currently using the Performance pc's crimp tool and some female atx pins I bought from them as well. The crimp tool seems to do a pretty good job. I've done a bunch of fan pins and they came out just like they should. I've also started doing the atx pins, but it seems as those have a small issue where the "wings" aren't long enough to really bite hard into the rubber sheathing on the wires well enough. Has anyone experienced this? If so what would be a good place to get atx female pins from?

Also does the adjustable gear on the side of the crimp tool adjust the actual bite of the tool or the ratcheting spring mechanism?


----------



## mordocai rp

yeah the normal atx wings are too short. Only ones I've used that were perfect have been mdpc-x ones.


----------



## abirli

Standard molex pins are the long wings


----------



## sinnedone

Thank you guys.









Anyone know which brand cable combs fit snugly on paracord on 18 gauge wire?


----------



## electro2u

I have placed an order for an entire set of cables for an evga 750G2 from icemodz. Looking forward to showing off what arrives.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I have placed an order for an entire set of cables for an evga 750G2 from icemodz. Looking forward to showing off what arrives.


Post a pic when you get them I'm in the process of ordering new cables. I have Icemodz black and blue cable extensions. They our nice. Now when you say entire set. Do you mean 24, 6+2 (x2) and 8 pin eps. Bc I don't see an option unless each is bought seperatly for the the connections.


----------



## electro2u

I ended up ordering the basic set (24pin/8pin eps/6+8pin pcie) + 1 double-molex and 1 double-SATA power cable as well as an extra set of 6&8pin pcie cables.


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> First time using paracord for sleeving, and I must say I rather like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm currently using the Performance pc's crimp tool and some female atx pins I bought from them as well. The crimp tool seems to do a pretty good job. I've done a bunch of fan pins and they came out just like they should. I've also started doing the atx pins, but it seems as those have a small issue where the "wings" aren't long enough to really bite hard into the rubber sheathing on the wires well enough. Has anyone experienced this? If so what would be a good place to get atx female pins from?
> 
> Also does the adjustable gear on the side of the crimp tool adjust the actual bite of the tool or the ratcheting spring mechanism?


Never used paracord... which one do you think is more forgiving? Which one is faster to sleeve in your experience? Nice pic btw


----------



## yoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> First time using paracord for sleeving, and I must say I rather like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm currently using the Performance pc's crimp tool and some female atx pins I bought from them as well. The crimp tool seems to do a pretty good job. I've done a bunch of fan pins and they came out just like they should.
> 
> 
> I've also started doing the atx pins, but it seems as those have a small issue where the "wings" aren't long enough to really bite hard into the rubber sheathing on the wires well enough. Has anyone experienced this? If so what would be a good place to get atx female pins from?


i have that problem , but with the lutros crimping tool , it does a good crimp on the female pin , but not on the male one ... when i check , it always comes off









maybe its the cheap pins . maybe its the cable ? ... dont know , but it only crimps good with the female pin


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoi*
> 
> i have that problem , but with the lutros crimping tool , it does a good crimp on the female pin , but not on the male one ... when i check , it always comes off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> maybe its the cheap pins . maybe its the cable ? ... dont know , but it only crimps good with the female pin


I think it's the pins, these are 3 female pins from 3 different places (performance-pcs, frozen cpu, mdpc)


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Never used paracord... which one do you think is more forgiving? Which one is faster to sleeve in your experience? Nice pic btw


pet may be easier for the first time... if you sleeving exising cables paracord is imo more tedious and less forgiving.

if your making your own wires dont crimp the one end and itll drastically be easier


----------



## abirli

pretty cool combination!



and a standard red and black stubby set


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Never used paracord... which one do you think is more forgiving? Which one is faster to sleeve in your experience? Nice pic btw


Thanks.









The sleeving process is the same for both. Paracord is cheaper than plastic sleeving, and the only downside is that it gets frayed and stuck on sharp objects. (also can collect more dust) The only downside I can think of for plastic sleeving is that its difficult to work with in tighter spaces and doesn't bend very well. The plastic sleeving will be trained better when you finish everything though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> I think it's the pins, these are 3 female pins from 3 different places (performance-pcs, frozen cpu, mdpc)


Thanks for that picture. Do you happen to know which one is from which vendor?


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Thanks for that picture. Do you happen to know which one is from which vendor?


The top one is mdpc which is the stabdard molex atx pin found at most sleeve shops the second in the photo is a molex power pin for the 4p molex cables and the third one is generic atx pins


----------



## yoi

the ones i have are from performance .. and its the male pin that i have problems , in all the crimps i do

the female pin on the other hand .. it works all the time . its impossible to remove it from the cable


----------



## abirli

the male pins should have the large wings too. the large wings are acutally only there as a relief crimp for extra security. the small one is what actually crimps the wire to the terminal



do you have a photo of one of your crimps that keeps falling off?


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> The top one is mdpc which is the stabdard molex atx pin found at most sleeve shops the second in the photo is a molex power pin for the 4p molex cables and the third one is generic atx pins


this. I included the molex just to show an in-between sized wings and should have specified.


----------



## emsj86

or i was thinking maybe a neutral black white and grey what our your thoughts. White inside of case, Black outside of case, black rads and blue pastel mayhem fluid


----------



## Natskyge

Good news everyone!

http://en.mdpc-x.com/

Soon.


----------



## emsj86

I know icemodZ has a new delivery of a decent amount of mdpc x sleeving. No orange but a decent amount of colors


----------



## 350 Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or i was thinking maybe a neutral black white and grey what our your thoughts. White inside of case, Black outside of case, black rads and blue pastel mayhem fluid


I like the second one with what appears to be a slightly darker blue.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Natskyge*
> 
> Good news everyone!
> 
> http://en.mdpc-x.com/
> 
> Soon.


Best news I have seen today


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or i was thinking maybe a neutral black white and grey what our your thoughts. White inside of case, Black outside of case, black rads and blue pastel mayhem fluid


I think i like the 3rd one. Makes me think of racing stripes.


----------



## Onitay

Anyone know where you can get "pre-sleeved" cables?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onitay*
> 
> Anyone know where you can get "pre-sleeved" cables?


Ultimatepersonalcomputers.com is good. Icemodz.com (what I have now), or ensourced. All our good the first one is a regular on this forum and is good. I'm actually selling my black and blue set 24, 8 eps, 2x 8 pin and 2x 6pin. But check out those sites there all good


----------



## nyk20z3

8 Pin Power thanks to ultimatecustomcomputers.com -


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Ultimatepersonalcomputers.com is good. All our good the first one is a regular on this forum and is good. I'm actually selling my black and blue set 24, 8 eps, 2x 8 pin and 2x 6pin. But check out those sites there all good


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> 8 Pin Power thanks to ultimatecustomcomputers.com -


=)


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Hey guys, if anyone could help me out, it would be greatly appreciated!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1567542/wanted-various-shades-of-mdpc-sleeving

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## WiSK

Wish I could help, Jeff. I only have scraps left myself.


----------



## OffTheChart

well here is hoping his return IS September

going to be hectic on him though because orders are going to fly in


----------



## nyk20z3

What makes MDPC so superior? besides a few colors i don't see the quality being any better then Teleios or Aegis which i have worked with personally. I might pick up some of his stuff just for kicks but since he closed down i feel like others have taken over the market.


----------



## emsj86

I believe it's the stitching is very right and it for a well. Also able to stretch and flex back to it's shape. Someone correct me if I'm wrong though


----------



## geort45

If my memory doesnt fail me, MDPC is thicker than Teleios, Teleios heatshrinkless slides easier into the connector

I'll double check when I get home and post a photo

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

IMO MDPC was 'the' or at least one of the pioneers of high quality and variety of colors, others were too see-through and 'simple' and had cheap looking colors, too vibrant. But now yeah, there are many competitors with great quality and colors to choose from. I've worked with Teleios and bought samples of all colors from Shakmods and they look very very good.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Natskyge

Double posts are not allowed!









Also what do you peeps think is the best sleeving since there are quiet a few contenders?


----------



## alltheGHz

Guys I'm trying to sleeve my EVGA EPS cable, can I found this when I took off the heatshrink  what is it and how can I hide it?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys I'm trying to sleeve my EVGA EPS cable, can I found this when I took off the heatshrink  what is it and how can I hide it?


That's a capacitor. Its most likely being used to filter the power and eliminate noise. you could probably remove it as your PS should have ample filtering.


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Guys I'm trying to sleeve my EVGA EPS cable, can I found this when I took off the heatshrink  what is it and how can I hide it?


Ive got a 1300G2 and I removed all of mine over a year ago and I havent had any issues. A google search will also show many other people have done the same. Cut them off and sleeve on








.


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> That's a capacitor. Its most likely being used to filter the power and eliminate noise. you could probably remove it as your PS should have ample filtering.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilkyJohnson*
> 
> Ive got a 1300G2 and I removed all of mine over a year ago and I havent had any issues. A google search will also show many other people have done the same. Cut them off and sleeve on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


thanks guys!!


----------



## rathborne

I thought I read somewhere that the capacitors were needed to achieve the same excellent ripple and clean 12v figures that reviewers found during testing? Something about there being noise without the capacitors when getting close to using the maximum output of the PSU.

Sorry this now just sounds like FUD (fear, uncertainty and doubt) without a link to evidence to back it up. I decided to start sleeving with the capacitors connected as its my first mod and would prefer not to tamp with the function of the PSU.



Fortunately I plan to have a dimly lit case and have tinting on the side window so the capacitor can be hidden and the heat shrink should be less noticeable as it does look pretty ugly in comparison







.

Edit: I think this was the article I came across before http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story3&reid=177. Page 3 about halfway down has three photos of readings with the with and without the capacitors.

Edit 2: reduced image size.


----------



## alltheGHz

I think I may have damaged the capacitor... You guys think it's ok?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I may have damaged the capacitor... You guys think it's ok?


----------



## sinnedone

Unfortunately not


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey guys, if anyone could help me out, it would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1567542/wanted-various-shades-of-mdpc-sleeving
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


MDPC is supposed to be back up and running sometime next month.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Wish I could help, Jeff. I only have scraps left myself.


I'm in the same boat. All I have left is a few meters of shade 19, titanium, and some black.

Adam with UPC did hook me up with some black and yellow from UPC and I have to say that it is quite good. Did some shrinkless in a 760t that I am working on.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> If my memory doesnt fail me, MDPC is thicker than Teleios, Teleios heatshrinkless slides easier into the connector


Seems an odd observation, sounds more like marketing speak. The widest part of a "heatshrinkless" wire is at the crimped wings. You melt the plastic over that part, so any variation in thickness of the sleeve before melting is irrelevant.

The main differences as far as I am aware:
- Teleois weave prefers fatter wire 2.2-2.3mm, looks fuller in the connector
- MDPC weave prefers thinner wire 1.9-2.1mm, looks more spaced out
- slightly lower melting temp for Teleois
- Teleois is easier to stretch to close the weave
- MDPC stays in position on its own, if stretched hard

@longroadtrip I still haven't tried Aegis, but I'm not really sleeving so often lately. It looks nice though


----------



## mundivalur

Hi people here are some MDPC VS most sellers 4mm sleeve , the MDPC sleeve has thicker threads so the texture shows much better specially when taking photos


----------



## alltheGHz

OK guys, I screwed up. I depinned both of my EVGA 750g2 PSU CPU cables, and I have no clue how to re pin them. I have no idea if one cable crosses over another, or where to put what, ect. Is there somewhere I can look this up, or do i have to buy another PSU?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> OK guys, I screwed up. I depinned both of my EVGA 750g2 PSU CPU cables, and I have no clue how to re pin them. I have no idea if one cable crosses over another, or where to put what, ect. Is there somewhere I can look this up, or do i have to buy another PSU?


Take a look here...http://www.overclock.net/t/1420796/repository-of-power-supply-pin-outs


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> OK guys, I screwed up. I depinned both of my EVGA 750g2 PSU CPU cables, and I have no clue how to re pin them. I have no idea if one cable crosses over another, or where to put what, ect. Is there somewhere I can look this up, or do i have to buy another PSU?


*kl6mk6 beat me to it*

Cant personally guarantee it, but I'd bet its right...
http://www.overclock.net/t/1420796/repository-of-power-supply-pin-outs/0_20#post_20663594

Scroll down to EVGA, first one says to be for 750 G2


----------



## alltheGHz

Yes I saw that one, but thats just the PSU side, I have no clue what the CPU side is, and if the cables cross over or what


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Yes I saw that one, but thats just the PSU side, I have no clue what the CPU side is, and if the cables cross over or what


The motherboard side is same for all PSUs.


----------



## FEAR.

Been a while since I've done sleeving. Dug up the stuff I had leftover from my previous builds.

http://s809.photobucket.com/user/FEAR-Mervin/media/Lian Li Q06/IMG_8955_zpskyhhktaj.jpg.html

Sleeved the front panel of my case.

http://s809.photobucket.com/user/FEAR-Mervin/media/Lian Li Q06/IMG_8961_zpsse4lins8.jpg.html

http://s809.photobucket.com/user/FEAR-Mervin/media/Lian Li Q06/IMG_8980_zpsmah6zxhh.jpg.html

Would like to try and redo the sleeve on my PSU but without heatshrink this time.


----------



## Himo5

Thinking about heatshrink it's worthwhile considering 4:1 glued heatshrink for fan connectors. When they cool they go rigid and provide a firm, safe gripping surface when connecting to headers with no guiding frames and unlatching stuck connectors where there is no room for fingers to clench and grip.


----------



## jlakai




----------



## mundivalur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> OK guys, I screwed up. I depinned both of my EVGA 750g2 PSU CPU cables, and I have no clue how to re pin them. I have no idea if one cable crosses over another, or where to put what, ect. Is there somewhere I can look this up, or do i have to buy another PSU?


The 8pin cpu for Evga G2 has the wires 1-1 straight no crossing







just like extensions


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mundivalur*
> 
> The 8pin cpu for Evga G2 has the wires 1-1 straight no crossing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just like extensions


Yeah I looked at the pinouts and it's very easy, thank you though!!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Hello guys, I finally got around to start sleeving some and I had to create some cables of my own as well. Which is where I got in to a bit of a problem, the cables that I crimp seem to not stick to the connectors properly.

Anyone know what the problem might be?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Hello guys, I finally got around to start sleeving some and I had to create some cables of my own as well. Which is where I got in to a bit of a problem, the cables that I crimp seem to not stick to the connectors properly.
> 
> Anyone know what the problem might be?


If you are using a stepped crimper (part of the crimper is larger for the sleve crimp) then do your first crimp like you are, then use the smaller part of the crimper to squeeze the jacket part a little tighter. That or get a smaller crimp die.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> If you are using a stepped crimper (part of the crimper is larger for the sleve crimp) then do your first crimp like you are, then use the smaller part of the crimper to squeeze the jacket part a little tighter. That or get a smaller crimp die.


Not entirelly sure what you mean but I took a few pictures of the crimper to verify/eliminate your suspicions.


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Hello guys, I finally got around to start sleeving some and I had to create some cables of my own as well. Which is where I got in to a bit of a problem, the cables that I crimp seem to not stick to the connectors properly.
> 
> Anyone know what the problem might be?


I can't see it very clearly, but I think you might be crushing the Stop Posts by having too much of the pin in the jaws of the crimper.


----------



## OffTheChart

if you mean that you can pull the wire out of the connector easily, then the 'inner wings' aren't gripping the wire strong enough

can your crimper be adjusted? using ratchet crimper? does it ratchet when you crimp or do you manually release it?

and if you meant the pins don't go into the actual connector (8-pin, 24-pin), then yes, Himo might be correct

it looks like you are 'crushing' the pins a bit too much on those 'stopping posts' and you can see the pins look to be bulging a bit


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> I can't see it very clearly, but I think you might be crushing the Stop Posts by having too much of the pin in the jaws of the crimper.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OffTheChart*
> 
> if you mean that you can pull the wire out of the connector easily, then the 'inner wings' aren't gripping the wire strong enough
> 
> can your crimper be adjusted? using ratchet crimper? does it ratchet when you crimp or do you manually release it?
> 
> and if you meant the pins don't go into the actual connector (8-pin, 24-pin), then yes, Himo might be correct
> 
> it looks like you are 'crushing' the pins a bit too much on those 'stopping posts' and you can see the pins look to be bulging a bit


I see, I really thought those were supposed to be crimped as well. That said I tried crimnping one by moving the crimp a bit over trhe small bit of the stepped one but I ended up crushing the part that connects to the wire. So it seems I'll have to find my dremmel and hacksaw because I will have to remove a bit of the crimper itself to be able to make a crimp with the stop posts still on them.


----------



## OffTheChart

hmmm, that doesn't sound right

can you post us a pic of how you have the pins placed in the crimper?


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I see, I really thought those were supposed to be crimped as well. That said I tried crimnping one by moving the crimp a bit over trhe small bit of the stepped one but I ended up crushing the part that connects to the wire. So it seems I'll have to find my dremmel and hacksaw because I will have to remove a bit of the crimper itself to be able to make a crimp with the stop posts still on them.


Every crimper comes up against this difficulty. However you hold the crimper you cannot see both sides of the jaws at the same time so you can't keep your attention both on keeping the wire at the right place in the pin and on keeping the gap between the Insulation Crimp and the Wire Crimp over the step between the two parts of the Crimper Jaw. It's a PITA.

Lutro deals with this by pre-crimping the insulation crimp by a couple of ratchets - just enough to hold the pin on the wire at the right place so he can concentrate on placing the pin in the jaws. He then threads the stripped wire through the partially closed Insulation Crimp until the insulation comes up against the Wire Crimp and then feeds the partial assembly into the crimper, relying on a steady hand not to jog the assembly against the crimping jaws and dislodge the pin.

I've finally got into the bad habit, myself, of snipping the Insulation Crimp into position with a pair of needle nose pliers so I can concentrate on placing the pin. It produces a firm crimp but if there is too much of a 'snip' it can make the Insulation Crimps crooked.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> I've finally got into the bad habit, myself, of snipping the Insulation Crimp into position with a pair of needle nose pliers so I can concentrate on placing the pin


This is what I do. Figured I just didn't have what it takes to be a good crimper lol


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Every crimper comes up against this difficulty. However you hold the crimper you cannot see both sides of the jaws at the same time so you can't keep your attention both on keeping the wire at the right place in the pin and on keeping the gap between the Insulation Crimp and the Wire Crimp over the step between the two parts of the Crimper Jaw. It's a PITA.
> 
> Lutro deals with this by pre-crimping the insulation crimp by a couple of ratchets - just enough to hold the pin on the wire at the right place so he can concentrate on placing the pin in the jaws. He then threads the stripped wire through the partially closed Insulation Crimp until the insulation comes up against the Wire Crimp and then feeds the partial assembly into the crimper, relying on a steady hand not to jog the assembly against the crimping jaws and dislodge the pin.
> 
> I've finally got into the bad habit, myself, of snipping the Insulation Crimp into position with a pair of needle nose pliers so I can concentrate on placing the pin. It produces a firm crimp but if there is too much of a 'snip' it can make the Insulation Crimps crooked.


I followed Lutros Youtube vid for the most part since this is the first time I'm actually crimping with non insulated cable shoes. As for how I crimp the wires this is how:


Spoiler: Pics of the entire process



Placing the crimp so that I can pre crimp it:


Pre crimping

Putting the wire in

Crimping


End result




Now on to what I think is causing the problem:


Spoiler: Pic of problem:






I think the piece of the pliers that is doing the crimping is simply to wide. As it's placed in that picture I am using the first large step for the pice that connects to the wire insulation, and it's placed as far in as possible to let the smaller step take care of the pice that crimps to the copper in the wire. That said, I get an identical crimp every time as the crimper is simply to wide to handle these crimps it would seem.

I hope that explains my predicament a bit better.

Edit: if you have troubles seeing stuff, then open the original so you can zoom. The pics should be in 10.2 megapixels, so it should be possible to see the small stuff.


----------



## Himo5

It looks like your crimper is too big and too wide. The Nils crimper is 0.1-0.25mm/0.5-1.0mm, whereas yours is 0.5-1mm/1.0-2.5mm/4-6mm. See if you can match these images:


----------



## adjago

SATA III SLEEVE RED & WHITE
Quote:


>


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> It looks like your crimper is too big and too wide. The Nils crimper is 0.1-0.25mm/0.5-1.0mm, whereas yours is 0.5-1mm/1.0-2.5mm/4-6mm. See if you can match these images:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images


Yeah that was my thought to, do you think the crimps will stay put if I don't crimp the stop posts then? or maybe the crimps I have isn't up to standard (It's the Icemodz crimps).


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Yeah that was my thought to, do you think the crimps will stay put if I don't crimp the stop posts then? or maybe the crimps I have isn't up to standard (It's the Icemodz crimps).


If the wire crimping side of the jaws is no wider than the distance between the Insulation Crimp and the Stop Post then drawing the pin through the jaws past the Stop Post should do the trick. But if it is wider than that you're going to crush the Insulation Crimp and maybe split the insulation. If you're up for it and the overlap isn't too great it may be worth clipping the width of the Insulation Crimp tabs to avoid them getting crushed.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Putting the wire in
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Yeah that was my thought to, do you think the crimps will stay put if I don't crimp the stop posts then? or maybe the crimps I have isn't up to standard (It's the Icemodz crimps).


It's simple. You are stripping too much of the wire, and so it's too deep inside the pin.

See the wire must be stripped only 3mm or so as shown in the blue highlighted area. Any wire strands in the red highlighted area are too much, and not helping the electrical connection. It can even cause arcing to have these strands here, since they will not be compressed airtight.



Further reference in the Molex crimping handbook http://www.molex.com/images/products/apptool/qual_crimp.pdf

Here you can see on the first page how the wire strands are intended to sit in the pin.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It's simple. You are stripping too much of the wire, and so it's too deep inside the pin.
> 
> See the wire must be stripped only 3mm or so as shown in the blue highlighted area. Any wire strands in the red highlighted area are too much, and not helping the electrical connection. It can even cause arcing to have these strands here, since they will not be compressed airtight.
> 
> 
> 
> Further reference in the Molex crimping handbook http://www.molex.com/images/products/apptool/qual_crimp.pdf
> 
> Here you can see on the first page how the wire strands are intended to sit in the pin.


I am well aware that the wire is to long in the pictures shown. The simple reason for that is that i cut a wire quickly for demonstration purposes only. Still I really dont see how a longer wire as long as its contained in the crimp should hinder the crimp from properly clasping on to the connector. The stop post however do pose a real problem and ill see what i can do With the crimper i currently own, if not ill probably have to order another one from over seas.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I am well aware that the wire is to long in the pictures shown. The simple reason for that is that i cut a wire quickly for demonstration purposes only. Still I really dont see how a longer wire as long as its contained in the crimp should hinder the crimp from properly clasping on to the connector.


Oh, please don't misunderstand me. Longer wire strands don't hinder anything about the strength of the crimp. But they will not be airtight, which can lead to arcing depending on atmospheric conditions. I've mentioned it to Lutro0 before, but he said he didn't have time to redo his videos for what he felt was a minor detail.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> The stop post however do pose a real problem and ill see what i can do With the crimper i currently own, if not ill probably have to order another one from over seas.


My bad, haven't checked this thread for a week, scanned through quickly, so missed this image of yours (it was spoilered). Here you identified that your crimper is not suitable for MiniFit Jr pins:


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Oh, please don't misunderstand me. Longer wire strands don't hinder anything about the strength of the crimp. But they will not be airtight, which can lead to arcing depending on atmospheric conditions. I've mentioned it to Lutro0 before, but he said he didn't have time to redo his videos for what he felt was a minor detail.
> My bad, haven't checked this thread for a week, scanned through quickly, so missed this image of yours (it was spoilered). Here you identified that your crimper is not suitable for MiniFit Jr pins:


yeah, so either I modify my crimper or I have to order one from out of country (which is usually way more expencive). I jsut wonder if a cut with the dremmel will be enough...


----------



## WiSK

You can try a dremel cutting wheel but I think it would be quite tricky to do it neatly. I wouldn't risk it by hand. Do you have the routing table accessory (#231)? I've cut steel using the table and cutting wheels, albeit thin steel.



Or try a tungsten carbide cutter (#9901) instead of a cutting wheel?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You can try a dremel cutting wheel but I think it would be quite tricky to do it neatly. I wouldn't risk it by hand. Do you have the routing table accessory (#231)? I've cut steel using the table and cutting wheels, albeit thin steel.
> 
> 
> 
> Or try a tungsten carbide cutter (#9901) instead of a cutting wheel?


I have a woodworking router, and a plethora of manual tools. What I lack is proper tools to work metals with, in particular I would love to get my hands on a proper mill for metal working (I actually have a big one for wood working that I inherited). That said I may be able to remove just enough of the width (the only things that really poses a problem) by drilling a bit in to it with a larger metal working drill bit. If not I can always file it away or use a hacksaw but at that point I may as well just use the dremmel tool (not name brand but it's more than enough for the small scale stuff I use a dremmel for since I have larger tools to do more heavy stuff). At any rate I just need to make the smaller part of the stepped 1crimper a bit more narrow so that it does not crimp the stop posts.

As for what other tools I have... I grew up on and live on a farm so I have a ton of different woodworking stuff, but I lack a lot of the metal working tools since I never had to use mroe than an angle grinder and a mig welder to get by on the metal side of things.


----------



## Rainmaker91

I know this will technically be a double post but considering there is 2 days between them I hope that is ok









So I finally set aside a bit of time to try and fix my crimper, and I couldn't believe how easy it was (I actually just used 1 or 2 min on doing it). It's still not perfect and I may end up using a bigger drillbit to fix some of the warping problems that seem to be present now, but here is how it lookes:



Then there is a lot mor images in the spoiler tag because I really dislike spamming a thread with pictures
 








Spoiler: The rest of the pictures:






As you can see from the following pictures, the stop posts are no longer affected by the crimping:


And then a small comparison of the finished pins (the top one is how it used to do them and the bottom one is with the modification):





As for how I did the modification... I strapped the crimpers to my work table while completely closed and started drilling at the side where the problem presented itself. I started with a 4mm drillbit and then redid the hole with a 6mm drillbit. I may do it again with a 10mm drillbit to fix the slight warping that happens with the pins now, but it should not be necessary for a good crimp.

At any rate, I'm just happy I can start making wires that actually work


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> As for how I did the modification... I strapped the crimpers to my work table while completely closed and started drilling at the side where the problem presented itself. I started with a 4mm drillbit and then redid the hole with a 6mm drillbit. I may do it again with a 10mm drillbit to fix the slight warping that happens with the pins now, but it should not be necessary for a good crimp.
> 
> At any rate, I'm just happy I can start making wires that actually work


Good solution: just drilling, no routing/milling etc needed. Glad you are sorted now


----------



## Teplous

I have a question. I am building a delta style 3D printer, and need to bundle all the cables into one big sleeve (I would prefer single sleeving, but it needs to be one bundle unfortunately).

Now to my question. I wanted to run some EL Wire in the bundle to try and make it glow. If I use White PET sleeving, or possibly a combo of Black/White PET sleeving would this potentially work?

Thanks.


----------



## 350 Malibu

Should work fine as long as the EL wire (which I have never used) doesn't get hot enough to melt the sleeving.


----------



## Teplous

Thanks, i left the EL wire on all weekend and it didn't even get warm, so that shouldn't be a problem!


----------



## Hex5011

My 24pins with MDPC sleeve and heatshrinks


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hex5011*
> 
> My 24pins with MDPC sleeve and heatshrinks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


One of the better sleeving jobs using heatshrinks I would say, I'm impressed that you made them so even.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> One of the better sleeving jobs using heatshrinks I would say, I'm impressed that you made them so even.


Yes I was thinking the same thing. Very nice job


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Don't you just hate it when you are down to your last wire and this happens?



Thankfully I have some "used" MDPC Orange that I can wash and finish the job. Used as in from an old build that I tore apart.

But it'll all work out and look good ... I think.


----------



## crafty615

What do most people do about the empty pin slot on the 24 pin atx cable? Im using 2 colors, so my patter will be thrown off because i will have to skip a color. I am doing the modular cables and not extensions, so i can't just stick a cable in anyway.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crafty615*
> 
> What do most people do about the empty pin slot on the 24 pin atx cable? Im using 2 colors, so my patter will be thrown off because i will have to skip a color. I am doing the modular cables and not extensions, so i can't just stick a cable in anyway.


I'm just skipping that one as the cable below will give the colour anyways. Then again I'm new to this so it may not turn out all that great. Ofcourse you could always just do a cable there and sinply have it end in nothing on the PSU side if it really bugs you.


----------



## Himo5

On Seasonic KM3 (and KM2, for that matter) there is an unused 3.3V pin in the 18 pin connector, so I use that as the target for a dummy wire that I concoct with a Top E nylon guitar string covered with the appropriate colored heatshrink.

MiniFit pins crimp onto the nylon quite well and sleeving it feels like a normal wire.

The only problem is getting the heatshrink to the right temperature without melting the nylon, which is a question of passing the hot air blower over the 'wire' from enough distance and quickly enough to avoid the melt but close enough and slowly enough to produce the shrink. Once it cools down the rubber and nylon firm up into quite a realistic 'wire' that blends in very well with the rest of the cable.

The great thing is that I have lots of worn out guitar string sets that I've at last found a use for!

PS. I forgot to mention that using Heatshrinkless method with a dummy wire like this is only possible if you guard the 'wire' when you are melting the sleeve into place.


----------



## sinnedone

Working on the rear of my case.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Working on the rear of my case.


My God! How tidy that is, you don't have a window on that side of the case do you? If you don't you really should, it's a shame to cover up cable management like that


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> My God! How tidy that is, you don't have a window on that side of the case do you? If you don't you really should, it's a shame to cover up cable management like that


Lol, Thank you

I actually do have a window on the back but waiting on some more cable combs to fix them up as the ones I have now broke.


Not done yet so hopefully they'll get a little better. (don't mind the double wires....bad planning on my part







)


----------



## Hex5011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> One of the better sleeving jobs using heatshrinks I would say, I'm impressed that you made them so even.


thanks so much








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Yes I was thinking the same thing. Very nice job


thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Don't you just hate it when you are down to your last wire and this happens?
> Yes I did and I was very mad when I saw this case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thankfully I have some "used" MDPC Orange that I can wash and finish the job. Used as in from an old build that I tore apart.
> 
> But it'll all work out and look good ... I think.


nice cable


----------



## skkane

Coming to me next week


----------



## Hex5011

Greeting for overclock.net and Hello everybody








I'm from VietNam and I specialize to sleeve cable with MDPC and heatshrink
24pins MDPC


----------



## skkane

Hex5011: nicely done mate!

Mine should color things up nicely aswell when they get here











Spoiler: Warning: many pics!


----------



## Hex5011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkane*
> 
> Hex5011: nicely done mate!
> 
> Mine should color things up nicely aswell when they get here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: many pics!


thanks mate


----------



## geort45

that moment when a sleeving extension is so perfectly aligned it looks like a 3d render... :O

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## TheWacoKid

Can you always put the wires from # to #? linearly like you have done? Will that work on all cables?


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheWacoKid*
> 
> Can you always put the wires from # to #? linearly like you have done? Will that work on all cables?


As far as I know you can only do that for cable extensions. The original cables can do crazy things like joining wires together, adding in-line capacitors and other tricks to throw off the budding cable modder







. I know the EVGA power supplies have a rather convoluted 24pin motherboard cable.

Check out what @sinnedone did for his PSU cable about 6 days ago and you can see where the cables join: http://www.overclock.net/t/662039/cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion/13050_50#post_24436318


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheWacoKid*
> 
> Can you always put the wires from # to #? linearly like you have done? Will that work on all cables?


To my knowledge, the linear method you where speaking of only works for the CPU eps 8 pin cable, not for the the others.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> As far as I know you can only do that for cable extensions. The original cables can do crazy things like joining wires together, adding in-line capacitors and other tricks to throw off the budding cable modder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I know the EVGA power supplies have a rather convoluted 24pin motherboard cable.
> 
> Check out what @sinnedone did for his PSU cable about 6 days ago and you can see where the cables join: http://www.overclock.net/t/662039/cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion/13050_50#post_24436318


yeah when I sleeved my g2 EVGA 750, I had to snip off the capacitors and I didn't even sleeve some wires all the way because of how they split.


----------



## rathborne

I thought the CPU EPS 8 pin cable had some non-linear cables?

To guarantee I couldn't mess that part up I did the sleeving one cable at a time... yes, it was time consuming but it was one less thing I had to worry about







.

I was hesitant to remove the capacitors as I'd read that the capacitors were responsible for the great benchmarking results the power supply series received from reviewers.

It does look a little ugly with the capacitors in there but if I control and limit the interior case lighting they should disappear from view







.

I'm yet to start sleeving the 24 pin cable and I can already see how much "fun" that cable's going to be when I get to it







.


----------



## alltheGHz

I dunno, it worked for me, at least. I snipped off the capacitors because I figured there are already so many chokes on the ASUS x99-m ws that I don't really need it, and it looks 100x better.


----------



## skkane

Colored things up












Spoiler: Click for more


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skkane*
> 
> Colored things up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Click for more


I like!









That UV reaction makes them really pop.

A little artsy, but I can say that backside doh.


----------



## skkane

Thanks







I was hoping they would be uv reactive when i ordered but was not sure, glad that they are









Need to change the ugly noctua rear for a white fan, a longer fan extension so i can secure those cpu aio fan cables up top and stop the dangling mess. Bottom compartment with all those cables needs some work also. Got a usb 3.0 to 2.0 adapter to get rid of the ugly 3.0 cable on front of gpu1. Always finding stuff to improve on as i tend to work pretty sloppy.


----------



## danikd

Hello,

Rainmaker, thx for info, I dont want to sell on ebay, so I must try another forum. Have a nice day and sorry for my post. Daniel


----------



## Rainmaker91

OK, so I'm getting more supplies bought now and Iran in to a small problem. I need more pins to finish my sleeving job and to be honest I'm not entirelly sure what the pins themselves are called in technical terms. Usually when ordering from computer hardware stores I just see them marked acording to the application area in the computer (meaning, PCI-e pins, molex pins and so on...), but getting stuff from hardware suppliers tends to be both more expencive and more work than for me to get the equipoment I need through a supplier of electrical components (got one that has more or less everything on hand). The problem ofcourse is that they list things acording to the official name of things rather than the name I'm familiar with. So if anyone could do a translation of the names then that would solve a lot of problems for me


----------



## rgrwng

i guess they would be called terminal pins?


----------



## geort45

They are minifit-jr crimp pins, either male or female. Made by MOLEX but not to be confused with the so called and ambiguously named "Molex pins"


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> They are minifit-jr crimp pins, either male or female. Made by MOLEX but not to be confused with the so called and ambiguously named "Molex pins"


You see, just one search with that and I found them








You wouln't happen to know the name of the rest of the pins in use as well? thinking of the pins used for fan connectors, the ones on SATA and the round ones used in the "molex" connectors. Also how about Mini-Fit® Plus HCS would that work or is that an entirelly different connector?


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> You see, just one search with that and I found them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You wouln't happen to know the name of the rest of the pins in use as well? thinking of the pins used for fan connectors, the ones on SATA and the round ones used in the "molex" connectors. Also how about Mini-Fit® Plus HCS would that work or is that an entirelly different connector?


Just be sure they are 4.2mm spacing. If it's a shop that only sells computer stuff, they probably are, but it seems there exist pins that look the same in photos BUT are smaller in real life, used for smaller connectors with 3mm spacing. They aren't very common though. They're called MicroFit but I stumbled on some of them mislabeled as MiniFit so try to be sure.

I haven't seen those Minifit Plus connectors, the plastic housings seem to be the same except for the pins which support higher current:

"The Mini-Fit Plus system leverages the same housings, PCB footprint and application tooling as Mini-Fit Jr.™ and Mini-Fit BMI systems. "

SATA connectors seem to be used exclusively for computer drives

**NEW** Seems the FAN connectors are part of the molex KK connector family (as the headers on your mobo where you plug the power, reset, power led etc), let me dig into it. They're the same spacing so no much surprise though

I'm guessing you're buying from some electronics site as DigiKey or Mouser?


----------



## geort45

Yup, fan connectors are KK connectors with 2.54mm spacing, so:

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/family?key=kk_254_rpc_connector_system&channel=products&chanName=family&pageTitle=Introduction&parentKey=kk_interconnect_solutions


----------



## geort45

Old style molex connectors seem to be exclusive for hard drives so here ya go:

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/family?key=disk_drive_power_connector&channel=products&chanName=family&pageTitle=Introduction

However those connectors we use where the cable goes perpendicular to the pin seem to be special and not on Molex catalogue


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Just be sure they are 4.2mm spacing. If it's a shop that only sells computer stuff, they probably are, but it seems there exist pins that look the same in photos BUT are smaller in real life, used for smaller connectors with 3mm spacing. They aren't very common though. They're called MicroFit but I stumbled on some of them mislabeled as MiniFit so try to be sure.
> 
> I haven't seen those Minifit Plus connectors, the plastic housings seem to be the same except for the pins which support higher current:
> 
> "The Mini-Fit Plus system leverages the same housings, PCB footprint and application tooling as Mini-Fit Jr.™ and Mini-Fit BMI systems. "
> 
> SATA connectors seem to be used exclusively for computer drives
> 
> **NEW** Seems the FAN connectors are part of the molex KK connector family (as the headers on your mobo where you plug the power, reset, power led etc), let me dig into it. They're the same spacing so no much surprise though
> 
> I'm guessing you're buying from some electronics site as DigiKey or Mouser?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Yup, fan connectors are KK connectors with 2.54mm spacing, so:
> 
> http://www.molex.com/molex/products/family?key=kk_254_rpc_connector_system&channel=products&chanName=family&pageTitle=Introduction&parentKey=kk_interconnect_solutions


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Old style molex connectors seem to be exclusive for hard drives so here ya go:
> 
> http://www.molex.com/molex/products/family?key=disk_drive_power_connector&channel=products&chanName=family&pageTitle=Introduction
> 
> However those connectors we use where the cable goes perpendicular to the pin seem to be special and not on Molex catalogue


I'm ordering from here: https://www.elfaelektronikk.no/elfa3~no_no/StartPage.do?ignorecookie=true and regarding the connectors themselves, they rend to be correct as they also give you teh part number that molex uses on them.

Heres an example that I ran through google translate for you: https://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&hl=no&ie=UTF8&prev=_t&rurl=translate.google.no&sl=no&tl=en&u=https://www.elfaelektronikk.no/elfa3~no_no/elfa/init.do%3Fitem%3D44-022-38%26toc%3D0%26q%3Dmini-fit%2Bjr&usg=ALkJrhjyc-9asTfHkqvI3Hp-sHD4ZkbrzA

And thanks a lot for your help


----------



## geort45

Gre
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I'm ordering from here: https://www.elfaelektronikk.no/elfa3~no_no/StartPage.do?ignorecookie=true and regarding the connectors themselves, they rend to be correct as they also give you teh part number that molex uses on them.
> 
> Heres an example that I ran through google translate for you: https://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&hl=no&ie=UTF8&prev=_t&rurl=translate.google.no&sl=no&tl=en&u=https://www.elfaelektronikk.no/elfa3~no_no/elfa/init.do%3Fitem%3D44-022-38%26toc%3D0%26q%3Dmini-fit%2Bjr&usg=ALkJrhjyc-9asTfHkqvI3Hp-sHD4ZkbrzA
> 
> And thanks a lot for your help


I see. Did you find white connectors in there? Do they have photos? I hope you get OPAQUE white connectors and not these types!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Gre
> I see. Did you find white connectors in there? Do they have photos? I hope you get OPAQUE white connectors and not these types!


They have both the transparent ones and solid white ones, all of which are Molex branded. I'll probably get the connectors through aliexpress or something like that though since I can just get some black ones then. Still it's more about getting the pins since I can just use the connectors from the cables I already have instead but it's nice to be able to make single SATA cables and the likes instead of the ones where you have 4 connectors on one wire.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> I see. Did you find white connectors in there? Do they have photos? I hope you get OPAQUE white connectors and not these types!








I quite like these off White semi transparent ones Pexon used for my cables, it shows you how neat and uniform everything is.

I'll be keeping these cables for a long time for sure.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> I see. Did you find white connectors in there? Do they have photos? I hope you get OPAQUE white connectors and not these types!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I quite like these off White semi transparent ones Pexon used for my cables, it shows you how neat and uniform everything is.
> 
> I'll be keeping these cables for a long time for sure.
Click to expand...

It's all about preference though and while transparent white connectors indeed fits quite well on your cables they would not necessarily fit well in other scenarios. Mine for example use black, dark grey and silver sleeving which I personally think fits best with black connectors. Then again black connectors on cables that use mainly light colours might look bad, so really it's all about the clours in use and most importantly personal preference.

Edit: seems you were missing a [ /quote ] at the quote there making both yours and my post apear as quotes of the person you are quoting


----------



## Himo5

Opaque white really matters if you are going to dye your connectors to get a particular shade. However dark you get the colour the transparency still makes it look weak and washed out.


----------



## alltheGHz

Is anyone having a problem where after Sleeving fan pins the pins actually come out of the connector when the fan connectors are pulled on?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Yep, I have that problem alltheGHz. Just on my pump though. Pretty annoying. I even tried bending the little tab back but it didn't work too well.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> I see. Did you find white connectors in there? Do they have photos? I hope you get OPAQUE white connectors and not these types!
> 
> 
> 
> I quite like these off White semi transparent ones Pexon used for my cables, it shows you how neat and uniform everything is.
> 
> I'll be keeping these cables for a long time for sure.
Click to expand...

Those extensions don't look half bad mate







. However the material tends to have a yellowish hue which I don't like very much, I guess I'd have to see the connectors directly to decide


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> Is anyone having a problem where after Sleeving fan pins the pins actually come out of the connector when the fan connectors are pulled on?


Sure you're not putting the small the little tab the other way around? Maybe your crimp tool isn't adequate and deforms the pin too much?


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Sure you're not putting the small the little tab the other way around? Maybe your crimp tool isn't adequate and deforms the pin too much?


I'm not crimping them, I'm popping thm out using an xacto knife, and I'm positive I'm putting them in the right way.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Yep, I have that problem alltheGHz. Just on my pump though. Pretty annoying. I even tried bending the little tab back but it didn't work too well.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


yes I would agree pretty flippin annoying...


----------



## Mystriss

I've found that the "tabs" on KK (including fan) connectors are especially prone to deforming; like once you pop them up they tend to hold that "open" shape. What I've done is push the little tabs down before I put the new pin/wire back in it, just gotta be real careful that you don't break the tab off cause they're pretty fragile.

If you're super annoyed by the pins coming out and you don't plan to de-pin it again, you can put a dab of clear silicone sealant on "catch" part of the pin before you plug it into the connector then push down on the tab thing with the pin inserted for a little bit until the silicone dries. Silicone has a chance of the connector being re-useable if you need to re-pin it as you can pretty easily scrape it all off; I've done it before, but the tabs are really prone to snapping off when you try to get them out of the silicone, still it's got a far better shot of being re-useable than super gluing them.

Now I've not tried this out on fan connectors, but if you squeeze a little bit of silicone into the wire side of the pins it should hold them in without being visible on the outside of the connector - I'd used this trick to make 22awg wire center just so in the connector housing. (It was an OCD thing...)


----------



## Seanimus

Hello,
Looking for which type of sleeving i should get for 1/4 inch electrical cable. Its for high end audio equipment.
Suggestions welcome...looking for some color to distinguish from the black cables normally found in home theater systems..

The cable is Belden 83803:

__
https://flic.kr/p/hP7Emc


__
https://flic.kr/p/hP7Emc


__
https://flic.kr/p/hP88Ld


__
https://flic.kr/p/hP88Ld

Nils/MDPC is out of question, since its closed atm.


----------



## alltheGHz

So I'm assuming this is going to be outside of a computer, you may not want the sleeving for internal computer components, as if may be a bit flimsy if handled. Maybe some paracord?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Hello,
> Looking for which type of sleeving i should get for 1/4 inch electrical cable. Its for high end audio equipment.
> Suggestions welcome...looking for some color to distinguish from the black cables normally found in home theater systems..
> 
> The cable is Belden 83803:
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/hP7Emc
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/hP7Emc
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/hP88Ld
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/hP88Ld
> 
> Nils/MDPC is out of question, since its closed atm.


Personally I find Paracord better for house related stuff as the softer sleeving makes it easier to move and the flat colour doesn't make it stand out as much as plastic sleeving does.

Really the only real downsides I can find to using plastic sleeving on house aplications are the following:

Wears faster, which is especially important when you are fitting cables on the wall or around a corner and having the other end tugged every once in a while will wear down plastic sleeving faster than paracord.
I suspect plastic sleeving will also be far worse to clean if that need ever arises since the sleeving is not as finely weaved as paracord and dust may settle within the grooves.
Then there is the massive reflections of most plastic sleeving compared to paracord.
Oh and since you are using red wires paracord may cover the cable colour better than plastic sleeving would do, but that would only be important if you were to want to use another colour than red.
So in short... I agree with @alltheGHz, Paracord would fit better in your application area. Not to mention most high end hi-fi stuff use paracord to sleeve the cables and not plastic sleeving, so you get to keep it more in style with the rest of the hi-fi gear


----------



## Seanimus

@Rainmaker91, alltheGHz,

Thanks for the response. .

I looked at Amazon for Paracord:

Not sure if that will fit on 1/4 " cable or will it expand and still retain a reasonable look?


----------



## alltheGHz

Yeah, you can try, you would take each end and kind of push it towards the other, that would compress it and make the inner diameter increase. Sorry, bad explanation. Go ahead and try, if it works than it'll be pretty cool, if not its nothing to cry over.


----------



## Seanimus

I found 1/4" in Frozen Cpu as spool. Performance PCS doesn't have the spool...Need to call them tomorrow.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14388/slv-243/ModSmart_Kobra_High_Density_Cable_Sleeving_14_-_UV_Red_-_100_Foot_Mini_Spool_SPOOL14-UR.html?id=8qQI2IZP&mv_pc=384

I think this might do it... Thanks for the help!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> I found 1/4" in Frozen Cpu as spool. Performance PCS doesn't have the spool...Need to call them tomorrow.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14388/slv-243/ModSmart_Kobra_High_Density_Cable_Sleeving_14_-_UV_Red_-_100_Foot_Mini_Spool_SPOOL14-UR.html?id=8qQI2IZP&mv_pc=384
> 
> I think this might do it... Thanks for the help!


You could technically just get any paracord really and just remove the internal thread. Maybe you can find it in the correct size if you look for regular paracord instead of paracord prepared for sleeving. If not then you should be able to expand paracord somewhat, but there is always a limit as to how much you can expand the woven fabric (not to menion you need a lot more sleeving to actually sleeve the cable since 1m of expanded paracord does not equal 1m cable).


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> I found 1/4" in Frozen Cpu as spool. Performance PCS doesn't have the spool...Need to call them tomorrow.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14388/slv-243/ModSmart_Kobra_High_Density_Cable_Sleeving_14_-_UV_Red_-_100_Foot_Mini_Spool_SPOOL14-UR.html?id=8qQI2IZP&mv_pc=384
> 
> I think this might do it... Thanks for the help!


Maybe try this stuff.. Regular paracord will NOT fit 1/4" as its only 5/32". 650 cord would look very nice imo.
http://paracordgalaxy.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=176_188


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Maybe try this stuff.. Regular paracord will NOT fit 1/4" as its only 5/32". 650 cord would look very nice imo.
> http://paracordgalaxy.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=176_188


Thanks!!
I will order today...if its not good no harm..its only $6.
What size/make heatshrink to use at ends for this paracord- need few feet


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks!!
> I will order today...if its not good no harm..its only $6.
> What size/make heatshrink to use at ends for this paracord- need few feet


I think 3/8" heatshrink would be fine then you could stretch it a little if need be but it will shrink down around your sleeving/wire nice and snug.


----------



## geort45

Hi fellow humans!

How da hell do I sleeve this:



Anyone has done it? It looks like chit right now...

Thanks!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Hi fellow humans!
> 
> How da hell do I sleeve this:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone has done it? It looks like chit right now...
> 
> Thanks!


I would sleeve it like a regular SATA, just super-glue the sleeving on in the end where they all connect and use a larger heat shrink to cover over where they all join together.


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I would sleeve it like a regular SATA, just super-glue the sleeving on in the end where they all connect and use a larger heat shrink to cover over where they all join together.


Problem is the cables are too thin, like half the width of a SATA cable hmmm


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Problem is the cables are too thin, like half the width of a SATA cable hmmm


I use 10mm sleeving on my SATA cables, so I guess you could try with some 4mm or if you can find it 5mm sleeving on them. the main problem will likely be to fit the sleeving over the connectors though. If not you can always run thicker sleeving over them and just stretch it for what it's worth and glue on the ends, it would be a bit of a loose fit I'm guessing but that's about the only thing I can think of other than to cut the cables and resolder them to fit the sleeving on.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Kobra makes a sleeve that is highly expandable. I just tried some on the breakout cable I have knocking about. 1/4" was too small. 3/8", however, would just go over the connector but had to be stretched to get it to fit reasonably snuggly over the cable. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?o=kobra+sleeving+3%2F8%22&q=kobra+sleeving+3+8

I would lightly melt the end to prevent fraying, then slip it over the connector until you reached the end of the cable, then, while holding the far end of the sleeve, stretch it out back over the connector to get it to fit the cable, then barely nick it with your dikes or scissors to mark where to cut the sleeve, push the sleeve off over the connector so you can finish cutting it to length. Push the sleeve back over the connector. Use super glue (brush on Krazy Glue works well for that; just don't use too much) to glue down the far end, then stretch the sleeve back to the other connector and glue that end own. The color of the cable will show through the cable so, if that is objectionable, either cover the cable with colored tape or blacken it with a felt pen (I have done the latter with excellent results) before sleeving it. You will need either 3 to 1 or 4 to 1 heat shrink sleeving to finish the job (you can get 4 to 1 heat shrink tubing at www.McMaster.com; they even have 6 to 1 but that stuff is really expensive and a bit large!).


----------



## nyk20z3

Has any one ever sleeved a U.2 connector or formally known as sff 8639. I just bought a Intel 750 400gb and would like to go with a tighter sleeve that wont expose any color on the wire.

Can i even pop the end of the U.2 connector out ? and what size sleeving and heatshrink might the connector shown below be using ?


----------



## geort45

holy chit I didnt even know that connector existed... they're coming out with too many!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nyk20z3

Yup it's exclusive to the Intel 750 as of now. I tried some 12mm sata sleeving but the connector was too thick and kept getting snagged =]


----------



## rathborne

I swear, after I finish sleeving this EVGA Supernova 750W G2, I'm just going to buy pre-sleeved cables! I say this after a solid 7 hours of sleeving one of the SATA cases and getting through 10 of the motherboard cables. I'm stuck on the 11th cable and its very belligerent. I've tried (and currently losing this battle) using the ATX depinning tool and tried the jewellers' screwdriver.

Anyone have any tips or tricks for dealing with difficult ATX pins







?

Maybe I just need some sleep as its getting pretty late and I personally find sleeving very tiring







.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> I swear, after I finish sleeving this EVGA Supernova 750W G2, I'm just going to buy pre-sleeved cables! I say this after a solid 7 hours of sleeving one of the SATA cases and getting through 10 of the motherboard cables. I'm stuck on the 11th cable and its very belligerent. I've tried (and currently losing this battle) using the ATX depinning tool and tried the jewellers' screwdriver.
> 
> Anyone have any tips or tricks for dealing with difficult ATX pins
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> Maybe I just need some sleep as its getting pretty late and I personally find sleeving very tiring
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I use heavy duty staples bent into an "L", insert them on the sides of the pin and use needle nose pliers to push down on the staples and then pull on the wire. Always worked for me (3 psu's).


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> I swear, after I finish sleeving this EVGA Supernova 750W G2, I'm just going to buy pre-sleeved cables! I say this after a solid 7 hours of sleeving one of the SATA cases and getting through 10 of the motherboard cables. I'm stuck on the 11th cable and its very belligerent. I've tried (and currently losing this battle) using the ATX depinning tool and tried the jewellers' screwdriver.
> 
> Anyone have any tips or tricks for dealing with difficult ATX pins
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> Maybe I just need some sleep as its getting pretty late and I personally find sleeving very tiring
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


It pays to make your own and get the thickness exactly right.


----------



## rathborne

Thanks, guys! I'll see if I have any staples or other metal suitable for the task. Unfortunately, I don't think I have paper clips around the house but I might be able to 'borrow' some







. I'll also give the idea of pushing the cable down and out instead of pulling it out. Hadn't even considered that alternative







.


----------



## Himo5

Even a panel pin can be hammered down to the required thickness and then ground into shape as long as it's mild steel.

Make sure you only hammer it down to within grinding distance of the right thickness and then fine tune it on the file, grinding wheel, sharpening stone, emery cloth or whatever you're using.

You need the blades to be only just thin enough to fit down both sides of the pin. The thickness must be uniform down the length of each blade (to cope with bent lugs) and correspond with just short of how far the lugs normally protrude.

It's a good idea to taper the width of the blades for added strength - just so long as they are narrow enough to fit all the way down to the bottom of the lug.

Once they are in use you'll find your biggest headache is the way they drop out once the pin is free, so you'll need some bright tape above the bend to make them spottable.

A 1/16" hexagon key is the best implement for pushing the pins out because its flats fit across the rim of the terminal and have the best chance of not crushing it under pressure.

When you meet too much resistance always refit the blades rather than pushing the key harder - the tapering allows you to swing each blade across its lug to coax it out of the indent.

Good luck!


----------



## alltheGHz

Yeah I remember sleeving my 750 g2. In retrospect I should've kept the OEM cables and sleeved extensions, it would've looked nicer but whatever. Does anyone k ow where I can get OEM cables to a PSU? Or do I have to buy a new one?


----------



## kernel G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> Anyone have any tips or tricks for dealing with difficult ATX pins
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> Maybe I just need some sleep as its getting pretty late and I personally find sleeving very tiring
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I had troubles with the ATX pins. Put my 24pin sleeving project on temporary hold.
I found that after I broke my tool, it worked better!

Pushed the broken pin in and then followed with the tool on the other side! Then I researched and tried the staple method (industrial staples from the hardware store, although regular paper staples with 2 or 3 still stuck together can work) and that works better for me. Getting the tool to go in both sides together is the problem for me. With staples one at a time is so much easier!
And Himo5 tips are spot on!


----------



## rathborne

Thanks for the suggestions







.

I finally finished sleeving that damned 24pin connector but will admit that it started getting a little messy thanks to EVGA's double-wiring, capacitors and exhaustion







.

Fortunately the case lighting is deliberately dim with a smoked grey perspex window and the capacitors can be hidden in the loom of cable as it goes from the motherboard to the rear of the case.

I think next EVGA power supply I get will either have pre-made sleeved cables or I remove the stock bundled sleeving and just have plain black wires to minimise the footprint that all these cables take up.

I'm actually having to reconsider how I may conceivably fit a custom loop in this case with all the sleeved cables stuffed in here







.


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I finally finished sleeving that damned 24pin connector but will admit that it started getting a little messy thanks to EVGA's double-wiring, capacitors and exhaustion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Fortunately the case lighting is deliberately dim with a smoked grey perspex window and the capacitors can be hidden in the loom of cable as it goes from the motherboard to the rear of the case.
> 
> I think next EVGA power supply I get will either have pre-made sleeved cables or I remove the stock bundled sleeving and just have plain black wires to minimise the footprint that all these cables take up.
> 
> I'm actually having to reconsider how I may conceivably fit a custom loop in this case with all the sleeved cables stuffed in here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Pics or didnt happen









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> I think next EVGA power supply I get will either have pre-made sleeved cables or I remove the stock bundled sleeving and just have plain black wires to minimise the footprint that all these cables take up.
> 
> I'm actually having to reconsider how I may conceivably fit a custom loop in this case with all the sleeved cables stuffed in here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I had the same issues in my dual HTPC build so I pulled off the stock sleeve and I'm converting them into ribbon style cables. Sorry the pics are so terrible, I've got almost no room in my bottom case for my camera and I don't want to pull the case out, but you can kind of see the 24pin cable coming off the PSU behind the SSD drives there - it lays flat on the backside of the PSU and exits the back of the case to connect up with the top case in my build. In the second picture you can get a feel for the idea with the GPU cable there, and sort of with the 24pin on the MB, though I didn't flatten that one all out. I just to heat shrink them all in black, but I broke my mb light tray last time I was messing around with it so I have to remake that before I can finalize the cable positioning and do heat shrinking on them all.

 

This is how I'd had it set up with my old PSU and the eventual goal for all my SuperNova cables:


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Pics or didnt happen


I would but it feels a waste of other people's bandwidth to post low-light pictures from my iPhone4 these days







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I had the same issues in my dual HTPC build so I pulled off the stock sleeve and I'm converting them into ribbon style cables.


For the next PC I build I might just remove the stock sleeving and leave it as thin, easy to position and hide ribbon cable that doesn't take up so much space







.

Though knowing me I'll probably get to that point and think "hey, I should sleeve these cables in different colours because it will look cool"... then have a fit of silent rage when I get to the 24pin cable again


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Pics or didnt happen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would but it feels a waste of other people's bandwidth to post low-light pictures from my iPhone4 these days
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
Click to expand...

Why don't you post them anyway and let us determine if they are a waste of our bandwidth?


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Why don't you post them anyway and let us determine if they are a waste of our bandwidth?


I'll take some photos when I get home tonight







.

I've been meaning to get a better camera (ie phone)... but then I discovered the OCN Headphone and Earphone Club







.


----------



## rathborne

Took some photos of the case with all the cables sleeved.


I need to add a cover plate to better hide the cables coming from behind the motherboard tray. The Noctua sleeved cables on the redux fans are a bit difficult to work with because they are clumped together and want to form large arcs whereas the paracord cables will seem to work wherever you try to route them.

With the side panel on the mess of cables isn't as noticeable.



I'll continue to clean up the cables soon







.


----------



## pez

Whoa, I haven't seen a P180 in ages. I loved that case so much. Even if it did have very mediocre cable management







.


----------



## rathborne

The cable routing was something I took highly into consideration when planning what panels to cut with the rotary tool. Removing the dividing shelf has made it a lot easier to work with even if it has made the cable more visible and now I have plenty of space to fit 3x140mm fans on the front







.

Of course its only after I adopt the black/white theme for the Antec that I start getting head-fi equipment in brushed aluminium finish that would blend in perfectly with a stock P180 or any Mac







.


----------



## Slam-It

First try came out fine








really like the paracord, very easy to handle but you have to be careful with sharp things because some fibers can be pulled out and look nasty


----------



## rathborne

Very nice







.

I like the finish for the melted end of the paracord, it's really neat and I think illustrates why I had some difficulties getting some of my cables back into the connector. I have a feeling I was a little heavy handed with the lighter and melting too much too far over the crimped metal.


----------



## CeeeJaaay

I've been working on a custom PC for a friend of mine for a couple of months now. Everything is done but the cables, and my issue with them is that I can't get the pins out. The power supply is a Corsair H850i, and I was using a ModMyMachine Pin Remover tool, which easily bent and even broke after my friend applied a bit too much force to it. I thought MMM was a good brand for a pin extractor, but I guess I was wrong. It's not like I was trying to cheap out, unfortunately it's hard to find modding tools in Italy. I've read countless guides and watched many youtube videos, but the best I could do was remove a couple of pins after pretty much destroying my hands, and I need to do 48. I was wondering how to attack this power supply next, and I thought about 2 options:

1. Get a better tool, like the original Molex pin extractor or the Lutro0Custom one (if it's any better). I've also been recommended this, which performs better on EVGA and Corsair power supplies... does anyone have experience with it?
2. Buy some new connectors for the power supply and cut through the original ones to get the pins out.

I'm aware that 2 sounds a bit extreme, but I spent a couple of hours working on the pins with my old tool and couldn't get much out of it. The downside for number 2 is that I'd have to buy new connectors every time I want to sleeve (I'm planning to sleeve my cables too). The downside for 1 is that I'll have to wait quite a bit to get Lutro0's or the original Molex tool to my country, and I'd like to get this done before Christmas. What do you think is best?

I've also been considering option 3, aka making my own extensions. I guess I can't make my own cables that go straight to the power supply, can I? The plugs on the PSU side are not standard. In that case would this cable be good? Do I need a pin crimper or I may get away with using something similar?


----------



## Slam-It

In fact you can make your own cables from scratch. I would recommend doing this or making custom extensions if you have the space.

If you decide to do this you will need to get the correct cable (your linked one will work), correct crimps and connectors.

I got my gear from this site:
http://www.gosumodz.com/
Their site says they ship to Europe and for me their stuff worked great, including the pin-remover (did fully custom cables on my RM750, I think it has the same Pinout on the PSU as the HX850i, but not quiet sure about that). They also have the needed plugs (14Pin and 10Pin) for the PSU-side.
Little hint: Don´t mess up 8pin EPS and 8Pin PCI-E and which terminals go into which connectors









The crimping pliers can be bought for less elsewhere, at least in Germany.

In case of custom cables be sure to do the right layout. Some cables will cross others and may can be "double assigned". Just compare to the standard cables.

It can indeed be a bit fiddly to remove the pins out of the plug but you can make it with just two stapler needles (is that the english name for them?) Wouldn´t recommend these for any job including more than 20-25 pins, drives you crazy some times.

So in my opinion the 10€ for the removing tool is worth it








Slightly push the cables in the connector when you insert the pinremover from the other side. Apply steady pressure at the pinremover the whole time and then try to pull out the cable. Some times you have to pull a bit harder to get them out.
But I think you already knew that one








Just be pacient, I know it´s easy to say this but I´ve been there and done that.

summary:
take time and do fully custom cables or make some nice extension if the case has enough space. I think the Corsair PSUs are relatively modding friendly. For your project I recommend the pin-remover (experience with gosumodz mentioned above)

just my 2cents, I hope this´ll help you. Good luck and fun with that project, the outcome will be worth it








Slam


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slam-It*
> 
> ...you can make it with just two stapler needles (is that the english name for them?)...


Since you asked, the English word is "staple". Don't feel bad, though; your English beats the holy, hairy heck out of my German.


----------



## Russmaf

So I have been looking all over the web for some sata power extensions as I will be putting two ssds in a custom place that could be seen through my window and the only way to make the cabling look the way I would need extensions and preferably sleeved. Yet the only one I have been able to find is from Nzxt and they only come in red so if anyone would know someone who could make two for me or where I can get it in either black or white or mixture of both


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Russmaf*
> 
> So I have been looking all over the web for some sata power extensions as I will be putting two ssds in a custom place that could be seen through my window and the only way to make the cabling look the way I would need extensions and preferably sleeved. Yet the only one I have been able to find is from Nzxt and they only come in red so if anyone would know someone who could make two for me or where I can get it in either black or white or mixture of both


Try lutr0 or Mainframe customs. But there many who do custom cables.


----------



## pez

Lutro0 and Mainfram Customs are one and the same







.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Russmaf*
> 
> So I have been looking all over the web for some sata power extensions as I will be putting two ssds in a custom place that could be seen through my window and the only way to make the cabling look the way I would need extensions and preferably sleeved. Yet the only one I have been able to find is from Nzxt and they only come in red so if anyone would know someone who could make two for me or where I can get it in either black or white or mixture of both


Pexonpcs.


----------



## Russmaf

Ya Lutro0 and mainframe are the same thing and I have left a message because he doesn't have any sata power extensions only Molex to sata or sata data extensions


----------



## timerwin63

Not sure who knows this or whether it's been posted yet, but it looks like Nils might finally come out of retirement! He's got some sleeving selling over on the Caselabs site (currently small and sata sleeving only) and while his updated store isn't live yet, he has updated the message he left everyone on his old one saying the return is imminent!


----------



## SanderH

I'm planning on ordering some *CableMod ModFlex DIY extensions*. What's the absolute best way to prevent cables from looking like this:



And instead make them look like this:



In other words, *which kind of cable combs are the best ones*... and *how many* do I need for lets say a 24pin extension? Or will some cables always look like the first example because of the materials which were used? I'm guessing the stealth ones which have to "installed" when you're making the extension are better as opposed to the ones you can slide on afterwards?


----------



## bigkahuna360

Oh my all of this seems so daunting now that I started doing more research into it. After getting a design down, checking the cost of all the supplies, and now the actual process, I don't know if I can do it anymore.


----------



## rathborne

@bigkahuna360, stick with it if you can







. Even if you only sleeve one set of cables or an entire PSU you'll be able to say you've done it







. I definitely recommend sleeving spare cables or extensions to start with... sleeving the one and only 24-pin motherboard cable can be a scary thing







.


----------



## bigkahuna360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> @bigkahuna360, stick with it if you can
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Even if you only sleeve one set of cables or an entire PSU you'll be able to say you've done it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I definitely recommend sleeving spare cables or extensions to start with... sleeving the one and only 24-pin motherboard cable can be a scary thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I was going to sleeve the 24 pin, 3x 8 pins, and 2x 6 pins. Was just gonna chicken out and buy presleeved SATA and molex, though the molex wouldn't really be difficult now. I tried learning how to sleeve 2x SATA to 8 pin last night and then I saw how many people were talking about EVGA PSUs were.

EDIT: Okay! Screw it, I'm gonna take the plunge! Anyone know where I can buy PSU cable cheaper than icemodz?


----------



## rathborne

I sleeved a single cable at a time to make sure it was almost impossible to accidentally mess up the pin outs on my EVGA starting with the spare 8 pin PCIE and CPU power cables. That way you can sleeve most of it at your own pace with the PC still usable until you get to the 24 pin cable







.


----------



## FluxPlux

Hi There,

Could anybody give me advice on how to stop the sleeving pulling out from underneath the heatshrink once shrunk down over the sleeve please.

Many Thanks


----------



## mundivalur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FluxPlux*
> 
> Hi There,
> 
> Could anybody give me advice on how to stop the sleeving pulling out from underneath the heatshrink once shrunk down over the sleeve please.
> 
> Many Thanks


Maybe you have the sleeve to tight fit on the wire so if you bend the wire it will pull out of the heatshrink are you going for the heatshrink look ?


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FluxPlux*
> 
> Hi There,
> 
> Could anybody give me advice on how to stop the sleeving pulling out from underneath the heatshrink once shrunk down over the sleeve please.
> 
> Many Thanks


Glue the end of the sleeving to the wire with superglue (I like brush on KrazyGlue). Shrink sleeves with mastic will also work but the color selection is usually limited to black, black, and black.


----------



## FluxPlux

@mundivalur Thanks for your reply. Sorry I should of been a bit more descriptive. The sleeving doesn't pull out on its own, it's when I remove a connector from say a hard drive and I hold the connector with my fingers and the cables in my palm and pull the sleeving pulls out. I'm not even pulling hard on the cable mainly the connector. I will ensure though that the sleeving isn't too tight though. Thanks.

@Lady Fitzgerald Thank you also for your reply. That is a good tip which I will try. Many thanks.


----------



## lowfat

Built a Raprap printer last week. Tried my best to keep the wires as clean as possible. Had to use a bit of liquid electrical tape on a few of the connectors.


----------



## rathborne

Very nice work







.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> I sleeved a single cable at a time to make sure it was almost impossible to accidentally mess up the pin outs on my EVGA starting with the spare 8 pin PCIE and CPU power cables. That way you can sleeve most of it at your own pace with the PC still usable until you get to the 24 pin cable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


This is also how I approached it as well. Start with a spare and take it at your own pace. SATA cables are super easy, so I kinda wish I would have done them last







.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Built a Raprap printer last week. Tried my best to keep the wires as clean as possible. Had to use a bit of liquid electrical tape on a few of the connectors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Off the topic:

How expensive was it to source all the parts? I'm having trouble completing BOM for Mendel Max 2 because I need to call half a hundred suppliers by phone to find out if they can source for nearly every part.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Off the topic:
> 
> How expensive was it to source all the parts? I'm having trouble completing BOM for Mendel Max 2 because I need to call half a hundred suppliers by phone to find out if they can source for nearly every part.


I bought a kit w/ everything from aliexpress so I'd say that part was very easy.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Off the topic:
> 
> How expensive was it to source all the parts? I'm having trouble completing BOM for Mendel Max 2 because I need to call half a hundred suppliers by phone to find out if they can source for nearly every part.
> 
> 
> 
> I bought a kit w/ everything from aliexpress so I'd say that part was very easy.
Click to expand...

Genius. Was the seller Dreamer Keep Moving co. Ltd. or something? I think I'm sold on that. Never thought of aliexpress as an option for some reason.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Mundi at *Icemodz* made me some AMAZING cables for my custom case project called, "Project mATX." You can check out more of the build *here*.





I'll have more pictures when the cables arrive!

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Genius. Was the seller Dreamer Keep Moving co. Ltd. or something? I think I'm sold on that. Never thought of aliexpress as an option for some reason.


I don't believe do. Hesine IIRC. The power supply actually died after 6 hrs of printing. But I just modded an old 1000w Antec in. Working great now.


----------



## ivoryg37

Its probably been ask before but is there a way to sleeve this type of PCIE wire without having to solder and splice normally like for 24pins using a Y method.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Its probably been ask before but is there a way to sleeve this type of PCIE wire without having to solder and splice normally like for 24pins using a Y method.


Not really. Not if you want the wiring to look good.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Its probably been ask before but is there a way to sleeve this type of PCIE wire without having to solder and splice normally like for 24pins using a Y method.


Doubled up wires make poor sleeving ground, because no matter how you twist it, together with sleeving, the pins will not fit into the socket. Maybe, a very fat one, that it will work with heat shrink, but you'll have to have a very big bulge and an enormous length of heat shrink sticking out. I tried this. Ended up splicing wires.


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

Has guys done cable sleving on a psu that is non modular ?


----------



## alltheGHz

Yeah it's possible, I would just buy the modular PSU- it would make stuff a hell of a lot easier


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iwamotto Tetsuz*
> 
> Has guys done cable sleving on a psu that is non modular ?


Yea, I've sleeved all the way /into/ a non-modular PSU (not recommended for novices):



It's actually no harder to sleeve a non-modular (without opening it up and voiding the warranty) as it is a modular PSU, however, I personally think it is well worth the extra few bucks to get a modular PSU.

With a non-modular you almost always end up with a bunch of cables you're not using right? What do you do with those? Do you spend the time and money sleeving them so they match or do you leave them stock and basically defeat the entire purpose of sleeving in the first place?

So ultimately, in addition to the non-sleeve related internal cable management/storage and air flow benefits, I'd argue that modular PSU's are actually /cheaper/ to sleeve [in PSU visible applications] because you only have to sleeve up the cables you actually need for your build.


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

I'd personally solder the wire off and resoder it on.
Because I know how to do that kind of stuff.

What are the bennifits of sleaving wires though? Other than looks and increaced durablity for wires

I was thinking wiring thicker wires with silver and copper lines mixed would have less resitance, therefore can increace performance


----------



## Mystriss

Oh it's purely for looks







Actually, I'm going to amend my statement slightly. It is mostly for looks, but it could easily be argued that sleeving could also help airflow because you can stack the wires up in a single sleeve to reduce their footprint (as I did with my old 24pin here, this is beneath the fancy braid shown in the pictures below):

 

Sleeving is /amazing/ to add "flair" to a rig. I think it's probably the best "bang for the buck" for a mod project because you can add /so/ much "pizzazz" without too much cost nor ability/effort.

This is my old rig, I'd sleeved EL Wire in the white braid loops so they glowed blue:

 

Inside I did some fancy braids on the 24 pin MB cable (the PSU was external) and did fully custom wires for my drive cables (they went under the MB and out the back):


----------



## br3n00cs

Is there a difference between Custom Extensions and Custom PSU Cables? Searching for it i've noticed that Custom PSU Cable set is way more expensive than extensions.


----------



## Slam-It

Extensions extend the standard cables so you´ll have to use the standard cables + extension. Complete custom cables on the other hand replace the cables of a modular PSU. The complete cable sets normally contain all cables you need, Data, 24Pin, Pcie etc.
Extension as I´ve seen them only extend 24Pin for the motherboard, CPU Power and pcie graphics power.


----------



## br3n00cs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slam-It*
> 
> Extensions extend the standard cables so you´ll have to use the standard cables + extension. Complete custom cables on the other hand replace the cables of a modular PSU. The complete cable sets normally contain all cables you need, Data, 24Pin, Pcie etc.
> Extension as I´ve seen them only extend 24Pin for the motherboard, CPU Power and pcie graphics power.


Yeah, i know. But is there any other advantages for using a custom psu cable set, besides cable management? Just to understand why they have a higher price than extensions.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *br3n00cs*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slam-It*
> 
> Extensions extend the standard cables so you´ll have to use the standard cables + extension. Complete custom cables on the other hand replace the cables of a modular PSU. *The complete cable sets normally contain all cables you need, Data, 24Pin, Pcie etc.
> **Extension as I´ve seen them only extend 24Pin for the motherboard, CPU Power and pcie graphics power*.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, i know. But is there any other advantages for using a custom psu cable set, besides cable management? Just to understand why they have a higher price than extensions.
Click to expand...

You aren't paying attention. You are getting way more cables and cable length with a custom PSU cable set than you do with extensions.


----------



## mrtbahgs

I think it'd also be true that extensions are easier to produce (less labor) since its a 1:1 pinout versus the custom set taking time to be sure the wires cross properly or deal with double wires and whatever else is out there so more time/labor for that.


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Oh it's purely for looks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, I'm going to amend my statement slightly. It is mostly for looks, but it could easily be argued that sleeving could also help airflow because you can stack the wires up in a single sleeve to reduce their footprint (as I did with my old 24pin here, this is beneath the fancy braid shown in the pictures below):
> 
> 
> 
> Sleeving is /amazing/ to add "flair" to a rig. I think it's probably the best "bang for the buck" for a mod project because you can add /so/ much "pizzazz" without too much cost nor ability/effort.
> 
> This is my old rig, I'd sleeved EL Wire in the white braid loops so they glowed blue:
> 
> 
> 
> Inside I did some fancy braids on the 24 pin MB cable (the PSU was external) and did fully custom wires for my drive cables (they went under the MB and out the back):






Thanks for the information









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Yea, I've sleeved all the way /into/ a non-modular PSU (not recommended for novices):
> 
> 
> 
> It's actually no harder to sleeve a non-modular (without opening it up and voiding the warranty) as it is a modular PSU, however, I personally think it is well worth the extra few bucks to get a modular PSU.
> 
> With a non-modular you almost always end up with a bunch of cables you're not using right? What do you do with those? Do you spend the time and money sleeving them so they match or do you leave them stock and basically defeat the entire purpose of sleeving in the first place?
> 
> So ultimately, in addition to the non-sleeve related internal cable management/storage and air flow benefits, I'd argue that modular PSU's are actually /cheaper/ to sleeve [in PSU visible applications] because you only have to sleeve up the cables you actually need for your build.






Performance wize, the longer the cable the more resistance. And this will mean the wire will get hot if the computer draws large ammounts of power
So extending cables has a slight drawback.

Not like it will be enough to effect the maximum overclock though. As its too minor to do anything for imporving an oc.


----------



## Mystriss

One thing I /do/ like about extensions is that a lot of the custom sets don't include all the resistors the stock cables come with (because /those/ are an epic pita to sleeve.)


----------



## lowfat

Generally you can just cut off the capacitors.


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Generally you can just cut off the capacitors.


Well, wouldn't that mean the regulated voltage is no good?
More ripples and possibly ac voltage existing in the power source.

Its gonna work thats for sure though


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iwamotto Tetsuz*
> 
> Well, wouldn't that mean the regulated voltage is no good?
> More ripples and possibly ac voltage existing in the power source.
> 
> Its gonna work thats for sure though


I've done it to every set of cables I've sleeved. I've had no stability issues caused by it.


----------



## br3n00cs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iwamotto Tetsuz*
> 
> 
> Thanks for the information
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Performance wize, the longer the cable the more resistance. And this will mean the wire will get hot if the computer draws large ammounts of power
> So extending cables has a slight drawback.
> 
> Not like it will be enough to effect the maximum overclock though. As its too minor to do anything for imporving an oc.


That's what i wanted to know. Thanks.


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *br3n00cs*
> 
> That's what i wanted to know. Thanks.


Nice to know I helped


----------



## geort45

Regarding EXTENSIONS....

I have a Cooler Master 1000W and I did a 24 PIN EXTENSION. It worked fine for a while but problems started and become more frequent. I had a lot of problems with my system with sudden shutdowns, ended changing several components (some needed updates anyway), with each change the system stabilized for some days but then problem reemerged and persisted. Mobo voltage readings were ABNORMAL for 5V which showed up as 4.5V, but since it was stable some periods of time I thought it was just a "wrong number" and not an actual voltage.

Finally changed PSU to a corsair RM1000 and problem seemed to disappear, I mean the shutdowns. 5V readings. I DID NOT USE the extensions at this point. I thought hey it was the Cooler Master PSU all this time, and then reinstalled my 24P extension. BAM, days later shutdowns again and I checked and 4.5V readings were back. So *** it seems the EXTENSION is causing that reading!!! I disconnected the extension and 5V readings became fine again and I haven't had ANY shutdown since then.

I checked with a multimeter if all wires worked and they did, so I have NO IDEA how can this happen!

Any idea







?


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

Extrention, or sleaved cables. The resistance of the wire increaced thus less 5V going into motherboard

Low voltage arking caused by bad connection of wires or bad solder joint due to bad sleaving


----------



## Deedaz

Here's some pics of my finished psu set.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## mrtbahgs

I understand that resistance is increased with longer cables, but I find it hard to believe the resistance increases that significantly over just an extra 8-24" with an extension added.
I suppose the connection and contact in the wires may also add to this, but that variable could kind of be removed if someone made a custom set of replacement cables and compared stock length to the custom cables that are 2' longer to be a touch extreme, but still realistic.

Does a test or study like this exist or anything else out there easily show that just a foot or 2 makes that much of a voltage drop?
I could wrap my head around it if we added like 10 or 20 feet and more, but I wouldn't think 2' more could be a game changer.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I understand that resistance is increased with longer cables, but I find it hard to believe the resistance increases that significantly over just an extra 8-24" with an extension added.
> I suppose the connection and contact in the wires may also add to this, but that variable could kind of be removed if someone made a custom set of replacement cables and compared stock length to the custom cables that are 2' longer to be a touch extreme, but still realistic.
> 
> Does a test or study like this exist or anything else out there easily show that just a foot or 2 makes that much of a voltage drop?
> I could wrap my head around it if we added like 10 or 20 feet and more, but I wouldn't think 2' more could be a game changer.


Voltage drop calculator...http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html?material=copper&wiresize=20.95&voltage=12&phase=dc&noofconductor=1&distance=3&distanceunit=feet&amperes=1&x=0&y=0


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iwamotto Tetsuz*
> 
> Extrention, or sleaved cables. The resistance of the wire increaced thus less 5V going into motherboard
> 
> Low voltage arking caused by bad connection of wires or bad solder joint due to bad sleaving


AFAIK the added resistance would limit current not drop the voltage. And just for a cable of that length it would be negligible...


----------



## rathborne

Incorrect gauge wire perhaps?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Voltage drop calculator...http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html?material=copper&wiresize=20.95&voltage=12&phase=dc&noofconductor=1&distance=3&distanceunit=feet&amperes=1&x=0&y=0


what a great link








+1

*EDIT:* hmmmm maybe not


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> AFAIK the added resistance would limit current not drop the voltage. And just for a cable of that length it would be negligible...


Voltage=Reistance X Current

Voltage and current would be effected when resitance changes, Typically the more reistance the lower the voltage and current you will get.

I would say low voltage arking caused by bad contact could have happned.
if the psu works fine before sleaving and after sleaving plorbems occured


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iwamotto Tetsuz*
> 
> Voltage=Reistance X Current
> 
> Voltage and current would be effected when resitance changes, Typically the more reistance the lower the voltage and current you will get.
> 
> I would say low voltage arking caused by bad contact could have happned.
> if the psu works fine before sleaving and after sleaving plorbems occured


Then test resistance on each wire with a multimeter I guess?


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Then test resistance on each wire with a multimeter I guess?


You could test reistance on each wire, after and before extension.

Bear in mind that, theres not really a way you can test low voltage arking due to bad contact after sleaving.
only way is to use common sense and see if anything is lose or pins not making perfect contact
If there was a bad solder joint. Also joining cables wihout soldering both wires toghter could cause the plorbem

I don't see how 4.5V input for 5V will make the computer crash though

And i'm not fully sure on whats your actually plrobem, if we get this more clear it may help solve the plorbem.
If the previous suggestions didn't work

Generally saying, most wires would be measured to be 0 Ohms on the multi meter, if its 0.5Ohms or higher it may be causing the plorbem, too much resistance
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I understand that resistance is increased with longer cables, but I find it hard to believe the resistance increases that significantly over just an extra 8-24" with an extension added.
> I suppose the connection and contact in the wires may also add to this, but that variable could kind of be removed if someone made a custom set of replacement cables and compared stock length to the custom cables that are 2' longer to be a touch extreme, but still realistic.


Depends on cable width and length,
If the width is great(allot of metal)and it is using highly conutive material like copper. The increaced legth would be negible and too small increace in reistance to do anything siginificant.

Also reguarding to the plugs for extension, If its designed to pass through large ammounts of currents the reistance would be low, and again the increace in reistance would be too small
Quote:


> Does a test or study like this exist or anything else out there easily show that just a foot or 2 makes that much of a voltage drop?
> I could wrap my head around it if we added like 10 or 20 feet and more, but I wouldn't think 2' more could be a game changer.


Depends on the wire really, We can have thick wires that has low reistance
If our wire is long enough, we can use it as a reistor, instead of using wires we can wire a resistor in series
that has a reistance from 0.1-5Ohms and we can carry out a practicall expriement measuring voltage and current. It would be the same thing as getting that much resistance with longer wires


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Iwamotto Tetsuz*
> 
> Extrention, or sleaved cables. The resistance of the wire increaced thus less 5V going into motherboard
> 
> Low voltage arking caused by bad connection of wires or bad solder joint due to bad sleaving
> 
> 
> 
> AFAIK the added resistance would limit current not drop the voltage. And just for a cable of that length it would be negligible...
Click to expand...

Actually, the device will still try to draw the same amount of current so the voltage will drop.


----------



## tysonischarles

Hey guys and Gals! Quick question, I apologize in advance as I'm sure it's been asked before and I couldn't really find an answer, so here goes!

I have an SFX PSU in my build that is in my Sig, For my Fury X it comes from the PSU as one 8 pin then the cables loop into two 8 pins pcie at my graphics card, I'm planning on Sleeving these in MDPC Color-X. My question being, how do I sleeve the loop in a manner that is aesthetically pleasing, As the cables and sleeve will be very visible. Would love to hear suggestions and thoughts


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Actually, the device will still try to draw the same amount of current so the voltage will drop.


Absolutely.

Also true that extensions are too short anyway to introduce much voltage drop.

Moreover, modern switching PSUs actively measure voltage drop and adjust for it.

So, no reason to worry about length of cables at all, unless you plan to have your PSU in a different room than the rest of the PC


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Actually, the device will still try to draw the same amount of current so the voltage will drop.
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely.
> 
> Also true that extensions are too short anyway to introduce much voltage drop.
> 
> Moreover, modern switching PSUs actively measure voltage drop and adjust for it.
> 
> So, no reason to worry about length of cables at all, unless you plan to have your PSU in a different room than the rest of the PC
Click to expand...

How can a PSU measure voltage drop when the drop is at the other end of the cable from the PSU?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tysonischarles*
> 
> I have an SFX PSU in my build that is in my Sig, For my Fury X it comes from the PSU as one 8 pin then the cables loop into two 8 pins pcie at my graphics card, I'm planning on Sleeving these in MDPC Color-X. My question being, how do I sleeve the loop in a manner that is aesthetically pleasing, As the cables and sleeve will be very visible. Would love to hear suggestions and thoughts


If you have a MiniFit jr crimper then you can crimp two wires into the same pin and sleeve them together. Aesthetically the best, but only if you measure and cut the wires perfectly. This is 8pin-to-dual-6pin but the principle is the same.



Otherwise you can solder two wires together and heatshrink over the join in the middle. Usually have to use superglue (Cyanoacrylate) to secure the sleeve to the solder, heatshrink is not enough.




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> How can a PSU measure voltage drop when the drop is at the other end of the cable from the PSU?


For the 3.3V it's built into the ATX spec (pin 13). For the 5V and 12V they use a Kelvin Bridge or similar principle. The is possible because the PSU has multiple wires for each voltage.


----------



## rathborne

I think i read somewhere that some of the split cables on the EVGA PSUs were for that sort of thing. Sorry, its been a while since I came across the article mentioning it and can't remember the source. It was another reason I thought it best not to mess with the cable assignments and capacitors.


----------



## tysonischarles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> If you have a MiniFit jr crimper then you can crimp two wires into the same pin and sleeve them together. Aesthetically the best, but only if you measure and cut the wires perfectly. This is 8pin-to-dual-6pin but the principle is the same.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise you can solder two wires together and heatshrink over the join in the middle. Usually have to use superglue (Cyanoacrylate) to secure the sleeve to the solder, heatshrink is not enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the 3.3V it's built into the ATX spec (pin 13). For the 5V and 12V they use a Kelvin Bridge or similar principle. The is possible because the PSU has multiple wires for each voltage
> 
> 
> .


I've done the soldering y splitting method before, but your saying I can get two cables crimped together then sleeved using the heat-shrink-less method into an 8 pin?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tysonischarles*
> 
> I've done the soldering y splitting method before, but your saying I can get two cables crimped together then sleeved using the heat-shrink-less method into an 8 pin?


Takes a bit of practice, but yes. Use a bit of electrical tape in the marked area in the first picture to help insert the two wires into the crimping tool.


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Actually, the device will still try to draw the same amount of current so the voltage will drop.


Nice explanation







. But extensions shouldn't normally pose this problem right? Must be some some very bad crimp, maybe one of them is barely grabbing any copper... I'll check them with a multimeter, I don't wanna redo the whole damn extension nor use the stock cables

Thanks!


----------



## tysonischarles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Takes a bit of practice, but yes. Use a bit of electrical tape in the marked area in the first picture to help insert the two wires into the crimping tool.


Thank you so much, that is really helpful and informative, I appreciate your help


----------



## FluxPlux

Would someone be able to give me some tips please with regards to making a SATA inline. What is the best method and tool for getting the wire between the blade contacts on the connector without damaging the cable too much in the process?

Many Thanks


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FluxPlux*
> 
> Would someone be able to give me some tips please with regards to making a SATA inline. What is the best method and tool for getting the wire between the blade contacts on the connector without damaging the cable too much in the process?
> 
> Many Thanks


May people use a flat blade screwdriver. I've found a four pin fan pin removal tool works very well. The trick is to position the tool so the contacts in the connector will align with the gaps in the tool, then punch down the wire gently until it just barely contacts the taper at the bottom of the slot it goes into. If you punch down too far, you will damage the connector. I also found it helps to punch down every other wire first, then the ones between those wires.



Also, if your wire is larger than #18, you may need to strip the insulation off the wire where it goes into the tool to get it to fit without breaking the connector. By using this kind of connector (MODdiy is the only place I've found that carries this style, otherwise I would not recommend using them since their product descriptions and photos are not always accurate; this particular one is accurate), I've found I can get wire up to #14 to fit into a connector after stripping off the insulation where it goes into the connector.



You can order these with one of two kinds of caps: one for inline and one for the end of the cable.


----------



## FluxPlux

Hi @Lady Fitzgerald,

As always very helpful, thank you. I will try your tips out.

Many Thanks


----------



## lowfat

Must be the best sleeving display I've ever seen.


----------



## Gunfire

Oh my.


----------



## pez

That UV green look or green/black looks amazing.


----------



## lowfat

http://nanoxia-world.com/en/products/coolforce/cableclips/338/cf-kabelclip-cc-24?c=111

Pretty nice cable combs. However they are trying to sell them for 30 euros. That is just insane. I only need two of each size to use as tools to comb the cables when creating cables. But I sure wouldn't spend $200 CAD to do so.


----------



## lowfat

Meant to post this a few months ago but I believe I forgot. A timeline for my cable management over the last ~ 10 years. Not every system I've built but enough to give an idea on when/where I improved.

Early 2005. AMD 2500 XP-M.


Later on in 2005. Also AMD 2500 XP-M.


2007. Unknown AMD build.


Mid 2007. Intel E4300 + Asus P5N-E SLI + 7900GT.




Later 2007. E6600 + Gigabyte P35-DQ6 + unknown GPU.


2009. i7 920 + Gigabyte X58-DS4 + GTX295


Later 2009. i7 920 + EVGA E760 Classified + 8800GTS


2009 again. i7 920 + X58-DS4 + 2x9800GX2. Folding rig.


Late 2009. i3-530 + Gigabyte P55M-UD2 IIRC.


2010. Intel 2600K + Asus P8P67 + MSI GTX580 Lightning XE 3GB.




2011. 2 x Intel E5649 + EVGA SR2 + 2x unlocked AMD 6950s.


Late 2011. Intel 2600K + Asus P8P67 + Zotac GTX460.


Early 2012. Intel ES + Gigabyte Z79-UD3 + AMD 7970.




2013. 3930K + Z79-UD3 + GTX680.


Early 2014. AMD 6176 + Supermicro H8SGL-F.




Mid 2014. AMD 6128 + Supermicro H8SGL-F.




December 2014. i7-4770K + Gigabyte Z87X-UD5H + Asus GTX980 Strix.


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

Wow you have built allot of computers


----------



## rathborne

Awesome to see that timeline of computer building







. Thanks for posting them!


----------



## alltheGHz

Wow, it's cool to be able to see how computer internals and aesthetics, as well as styles have evolved over the years. Thank you for sharing!


----------



## kgtuning

Yes sir... @lowfat definitely one of the builders I look up to.


----------



## pez

Looking great, lowfat! :thumb;


----------



## Potter86

Need ideas on better cable management, right now everything is just zip tied. but i also wanna sleeve everything that is shown. I do not have all my hard drives in the bays yet either because im waiting on a pci to sata for more sata slots.







The ones that look like rats nest going on was with me just shoving everything in the case and getting a feel for how i wanted to do things.


----------



## zu903

just got some para cord in and was gonna try to sleeve a few of the extra cables like cpu and vga and swap them in if i like them. I have a super nova 750w G2 and i cut the old sleeves off and noticed some capacitors. I was wondering the best way to go around this if there is any thought about just doing a white u with it to best hide it. Or maybe switch the plugs so the caps would be at the psu end and out of sight.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zu903*
> 
> just got some para cord in and was gonna try to sleeve a few of the extra cables like cpu and vga and swap them in if i like them. I have a super nova 750w G2 and i cut the old sleeves off and noticed some capacitors. I was wondering the best way to go around this if there is any thought about just doing a white u with it to best hide it. Or maybe switch the plugs so the caps would be at the psu end and out of sight.


I have the 850w version and I just cut the caps off, everything works fine. I didn't find anybody having problems doing this and it's what lutro had done before so I went with it.


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

Only poor quality power supply manufactures will wire compacitors out side of the metal case of the power supply

If I buy a psu like that, and the price was expensive.
I would be complaning, not up to my standards


----------



## rathborne

I was under the impression the EVGA G2 series were a solid PSU? The exterior capacitors at the end were for extra power noise filtering based on the articles I was reading.

Most people cut them out when sleeving the cables. I kept them in and plan to hide them from view when I add cable management combs but i'm using tinted perspex so the heatshrinking on those cables are harder to spot.


----------



## zu903

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> I was under the impression the EVGA G2 series were a solid PSU? The exterior capacitors at the end were for extra power noise filtering based on the articles I was reading.
> 
> Most people cut them out when sleeving the cables. I kept them in and plan to hide them from view when I add cable management combs but i'm using tinted perspex so the heatshrinking on those cables are harder to spot.


Same here. I did some searching last night and i think im gonna cut them out and move them down more towards the psu. I have a dual bay case so it would be easy to hide them


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> I was under the impression the EVGA G2 series were a solid PSU? The exterior capacitors at the end were for extra power noise filtering based on the articles I was reading.
> 
> Most people cut them out when sleeving the cables. I kept them in and plan to hide them from view when I add cable management combs but i'm using tinted perspex so the heatshrinking on those cables are harder to spot.


For extra filtering, the properway is to solder it inside the PSU


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iwamotto Tetsuz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> I was under the impression the EVGA G2 series were a solid PSU? The exterior capacitors at the end were for extra power noise filtering based on the articles I was reading.
> 
> Most people cut them out when sleeving the cables. I kept them in and plan to hide them from view when I add cable management combs but i'm using tinted perspex so the heatshrinking on those cables are harder to spot.
> 
> 
> 
> For extra filtering, the properway is to solder it inside the PSU
Click to expand...

The cleanest looking way is to solder the caps inside the PSU but, to filter out noise that is picked up by the cables on the way to their destinations, caps need to connected to the destination ends of the cables. Induced noise usually isn't an issue on today's MOBOs, however.


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

If they use a bigger compacitor inside, like 10 000UF or 20 000UF, then noise should be no plorbem.
They get slightly better filtering performance by soldering it on the wire connected at pc components end, but if they use enough compacitors, then that is not needed.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iwamotto Tetsuz*
> 
> If they use a bigger compacitor inside, like 10 000UF or 20 000UF, then noise should be no plorbem.
> They get slightly better filtering performance by soldering it on the wire connected at pc components end, but if they use enough compacitors, then that is not needed.


Removing induced noise doesn't work that way.


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

Why dosen't it work that way?


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iwamotto Tetsuz*
> 
> Why dosen't it work that way?


The cable acts like an antenna for its entire length, picking up electromagnetic noise being emitted from the MOBO that travels in both directions. If you have the capacitors only at the PSU end, some of the noise will make to the device, such as the GPU, because part of the cable/antenna will be closer to the GPU than to the PSU, meaning there is less resistance to the noise than to the PSU.

Newer MOBOs are "cleaner", noisewise, than the older ones so there is far less for the cables to pick up, so one probably can get away without the caps at the end of the cable unless it's an older MOBO or a really cheap PSU.


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

You fix that by using a isolated wire, not a compacitor.
Isolated wire means your picking up zero interferance

In linear systems, picking up noise would be a plorbem, but not in a power system.
Like a amplifier, the input wire is isolated, do we see input wires for music using a compacitor at ends to isolate sound? No we don't.

In a power system, all that matters is the ammount of compacitance you have, more you have the better it is. More compacitance, cleaner the voltage. The more load you have, more compacitors should used. In a power system, you can pick up as much sound as you want, not going to be a plorbem

Futhermore, a compacitor is not going to help magnetifield isolation at all
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_shielding


----------



## wermad

Not sure if this has been brought up, but I was leaving my feedback and i noticed this message on FurryLetters store:
Quote:


> This Store seller is currently away. Please add this Store to your Favorites and come again.
> 
> Barry Miller is currently in the hospital and unable to take or shipping any orders. We are sorry for this inconvenience. Please pray for his speedy recovery. No phone calls please. Thank you, Dana Miller


http://stores.ebay.com/FURRYLETTERS?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

Hope the best for Barry and a speedy recovery. Thoughts are with him and his family.


----------



## dsppluscpu

Problem Solved.
Buy the components needed, install them, take measurements for each cable.
Send them to Mundi @ icemodz and get high quality, customized 16 AWG.

I use a 3500 USD Soundcard, use Supermicro Server boards with consumer i7 CPUs.
Run them hot as a whore house on dollar day in Las Vegas and spew out 96k real time audio.

Nice to have pro DIY guys to help out.

Great thread and great forum too.

Never would have known about icemodz unless I tracked down ideas from yuze guys here.

Graayyyy8888 place....


----------



## FluxPlux

Hi There,

What are your thoughts please on the best method to cable manage individually sleeved cables behind the motherboard tray. I was looking at some adhesive zip tie anchors but I feel that wouldn't be the cleanest looking method. I do like the builds where each cable is side by side. How do you achieve that look?

Many Thanks.


----------



## dsppluscpu

I got a Corsair C70 since I love the Industrial strength Power buttons and handles, good portable build.
Removed the HDD Cages and use a 4 x SSD SATA Cage in one of the 3 x 5.25' drive bays.
This gave me a ton of space inside the C70, Corsiar Hydro AIO is top mounted, so I could measure the cable lengths, send them behind the MB and Mundi @ icemodz is just a cut above the rest and I have no tools or skills to build my own.
He did such a good job I gave him a bonus.
After all I make money on my PC.
Gotsta have the very best.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FluxPlux*
> 
> Hi There,
> 
> What are your thoughts please on the best method to cable manage individually sleeved cables behind the motherboard tray. I was looking at some adhesive zip tie anchors but I feel that wouldn't be the cleanest looking method. I do like the builds where each cable is side by side. How do you achieve that look?
> 
> Many Thanks.


Drill 2 holes in mainboard tray, throw some screws through them. Cut a couple of pieces of metal as hold down brackets. Use a couple of nuts to hold them in place.


----------



## FluxPlux

Hi @lowfat that is a very clean and simple solution, thank you. I will look into this further for my case.

Many Thanks


----------



## Mystriss

There's also these http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?is_ajax=1&limit=90&q=Mod%2FSmart+Kobra+SS+Cable&wiremanagementtype=2458http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?is_ajax=1&limit=90&q=Mod%2FSmart+Kobra+SS+Cable&wiremanagementtype=2458 and these http://www.performance-pcs.com/flat-snap-close-nylon-cable-clamp-adhesive-back-4-5cm-black.html but I'm not keen on the adhesive tape parts cause they seem to unstick when they get warm :/


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> There's also these http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?is_ajax=1&limit=90&q=Mod%2FSmart+Kobra+SS+Cable&wiremanagementtype=2458http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?is_ajax=1&limit=90&q=Mod%2FSmart+Kobra+SS+Cable&wiremanagementtype=2458 and these http://www.performance-pcs.com/flat-snap-close-nylon-cable-clamp-adhesive-back-4-5cm-black.html but *I'm not keen on the adhesive tape parts cause they seem to unstick when they get warm* :/


Curious. I've never had any problems with similar adhesive clamps coming loose.


----------



## Mystriss

maybe I let my batch sit around too long or something? IDK I cleaned the case floor up before I stuck them down and everything, but they still fell off on me :/


----------



## lowfat

After 14 months my VGA cables are still holding their place perfectly. Without cable combs.


----------



## kgtuning

First time sleeving Sata data cables. Mdpc black Sata sleeve.


----------



## Stige

moved


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Building a secondary PC in an old case with no places to hide cables etc so doing my best to do it as tidy as possible, things so far:


Hello. This is the cable *sleeving* thread. I think you maybe meant to post to the cable management thread instead?


----------



## Stige

Oops


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> After 14 months my VGA cables are still holding their place perfectly. Without cable combs.


I've really got to get back into finishing my PCI-e cables at least. I got so frustrated with them that I put them down. Now that I want to SLI, I'm looking at myself like 'finish these damn cables or don't go SLI, you scrub.'


----------



## Mystriss

Awww What frustrated ya Pez, maybe we can help?


----------



## pez

I was getting super frustrated with the 'double' cables (PSU in sig; PCI-e cables specifically). A few people actually posted a few tips, but I have yet to try it. SATA cables were so easy, and then actual cabling got hard. I started getting hand cramps, and frustration set in. I think I just have to give it a second go...I don't give up very easily, so it beat up my pride to put it down.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I was getting super frustrated with the 'double' cables (PSU in sig; PCI-e cables specifically). A few people actually posted a few tips, but I have yet to try it. SATA cables were so easy, and then actual cabling got hard. I started getting hand cramps, and frustration set in. I think I just have to give it a second go...I don't give up very easily, so it beat up my pride to put it down.


Ah yea the doubles are a bit of a wh~coughs~ pain...

Unfortunately imo the best solution to this PITA the PSU manufacturer's put on us is to make your own cables from scratch, and frankly that is the route I always elect to take, and especially with my PCIe's, because I think it looks better to me to /not/ have the secondary connector hanging around (plus this way I don't have to pull apart the stock cables at all and I have them for reference in any emergency that might come up in the future - I dislike pulling apart stock cables heh)

Had you considered making your PCIe's from scratch? It's far easier imo and I'd be happy to help walk you through how to not mess up the pin-out on the cable









The only double wires I personally even /think/ about messing with is the capacitor's on 24-pin MB cables and an occasional molex power cable. I have had decent success with using various sizes of sleeving on capacitors, though I unfortunately can't find any pictures of that (I had a HDD fail and wipe out the vast majority of my old rig pictures like 5 or so years ago) I was, however, pondering sleeving my new PSU's 24pin just to keep it organized (It's not actually visible in my current build, my build is actually sleeve-less as I'm making custom "ribbon-cables" with silicone like so:


Still, perhaps I can make time to sleeve one of the capacitor lines up as an example [if you don't want to make your own cables I mean] I'll dig through my boxes in a bit and see if I've got the stuff I need to do an example for ya


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I was getting super frustrated with the 'double' cables (PSU in sig; PCI-e cables specifically). A few people actually posted a few tips, but I have yet to try it. SATA cables were so easy, and then actual cabling got hard. I started getting hand cramps, and frustration set in. I think I just have to give it a second go...I don't give up very easily, so it beat up my pride to put it down.


I feel your pain, Pez







. I sleeved the spare cables over time then had to spend nearly two entire days sleeving the 24pin and remaining cables. Not so bad if you can put old familiar movies or shows on in the background, that way you have ambient sounds and something to semi-distract yourself while sleeving but know the material well enough to still concentrate on the task at hand







.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all









I am currently looking at sleeving my RM1000i or making extensions (haven't decided yet) but I will be using MDPC-X.

My question is this:

Which color best represents the "ROG" red, would it be the red or color-x from MDPC ?

Regards


----------



## FluxPlux

Thanks @Mystriss very helpful link.


----------



## NotATroll

Hi guys!

I've always been a lurker when it came to sleeving, but recently I really liked the work of the guys over at CableMod. Problem however is that they do not stock full kits for the Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid series. Thing is, I *am* willing to pay $180 for them to do the work for me and ship the cables.

Has anyone else had experience with CableMod doing custom sleeving jobs for them? I'm just a little worried, that even though these guys may be experts - one little wrong cable could ruin my whole rig electrically.

Either that or I need to sleeve my PSU myself. I'm confident enough in doing so. But this may come to more than the $180 if I include shipping and tools.

Your ideas are welcomed.


----------



## Mystriss

Alright quick run through of how I do the 24-pin MB doubles for capacitors - PCIe's are actually slightly easier









First off I recommend only doing one wire at a time so you don't mess up your pin-out.

*Step 1:* de-pin wire to be sleeved.

*PCIe cable* - you'll be de-pinning THREE connections - the first at the PSU side, the second on the first PCIe connector and the third from the piggy-back connector. If you only do one cable at a time, then it's pretty self-evident where the pins go so you don't need to draw out a pin-out ( not that it's hard, nor not a good idea to do so just for GP heh )

*24pin capacitor cable* - you'll de-pin FOUR connections in total (2 on the 24pin connector and 2 on the PSU side) and there are extra steps, mainly marking which pins are negative and positive on the Capacitor - the positive side of the capacitor is usually not marked and the negative side of the capacitor should have a thick gray marker (usually with a minus sign in it - see first picture below, I've indicated and marked the negative side in red and the positive side in green.) You don't want to reverse the polarity on these so write it down. You'll also need to write down the "standard" pin-out reference as well - I have an EVGA SuperNova 1600 T2 [ FYI I put a pin-out of this cable in the pin-out repository here http://www.overclock.net/t/1420796/repository-of-power-supply-pin-outs/580#post_24534087 ] so in my case pin 1 on the MB connector is the positive on the capacitor and goes to pin 17 on the PSU side, pin 3 on the MB connector is the negative on the capacitor and goes to pin 5 on the PSU side. Your cable will most likely be different, but that's the information you need to remember









 


*Step 1b:*

*24 pin capacitor cable* - you'll want to do a little prep work and fold over the wire by your capacitor to make a "straight" bit for sleeving. DO NOT fold over /at/ the capacitor itself because the pins will snap off the cap on you and then you're hosed (unless you have extra caps and can solder) - instead bend the /wire/ 90 degrees over the capacitor, like so:



*Step 2:* Cut your sleeve to length. ( FYI all my sleeve is Kobra HD )

*PCIe cable* - You'll have a long piece of (typically 1/8") sleeve to go from the PSU connector to the first PCIe connector, then a short piece between the first PCIe connector and the piggy-back PCIe connector.

*24pin capacitor connector*- You'll have TWO long pieces of standard (1/8") sleeve to go from the PSU to the MB connector, then a short piece of slightly bigger sleeve (3/8") to go over the Capacitor wire section, like so:



*Step 3:* Get sleeve on your wire

I find it easiest to put a little piece of tape on the pins that will need to go through the sleeve, like so:



*PCIe cable* - Just work your sleeve into the "V" joint of the double wire pin.

*24pin capacitor connector* - You'll want to start on the side that is facing "away" from your capacitor to make things work easier, you'll also want to fold over the "middle" pin (you could tape the pin but since the sleeve is 3/8" it goes over the pin pretty easy.) In my example I've bent over the wire coming off the negative side of the cap so pin 3 is the "middle" pin - pictures explain better:

  

Either cable type, you should end up with a "v" sleeve joint like so:



*Step 4:* Heat-shrink

I usually use 5mm heat-shrink for capacitor wires, but that's a bit of a non-standard size so I've got 6mm here, which is probably a good size for the PCIe cable's wires which are [most likely] both 18 gauge. The capacitor wire on the other hand is typically 22gauge, and in the case of the EVGA SuperNova 1600 T2 the regular wire is 16 gauge. Because of the 16 gauge of my PSU I have to hold the sleeve back a ways from the connector pin or it won't fit into the connector housing.

I actually like to melt my sleeving down into a bit of a "v" working it with my fingers ( and yea, it burns a bit heh) then plug the pin into the connector and decide exactly where I want the heat-shrink and sleeve to land this example here has the sleeve flush with the back of the connector and the heat shrink here isn't really holding anything in place and is purely cosmetic (to match the other heat-shrink'ed cables or w/e):

 

I actually prefer to hold the sleeve back a bit more then have the heat-shrink shrunk down onto the wire and into the connector like this example because it just feels more secure to me, and in addition I can kind of stack the wires so it looks like there is just /one/ wire (pic 2) which makes everything look more even (*this pleases my OCD heh):

 

With the PCIe cables you can heat shrink the individual wires like this which looks pretty clean:


----------



## rathborne

@Mystriss, really nice guide! I like what you did to hide the capacitors, much neater than my outcome







.

The heatshrinkless approach looks really nice but getting the right melted end can be tricky especially in cases where the wire refuses to go back into the connector.

The burnt finger tips can be avoided by wrapping the thumb and index fingers in layers of masking tape







. The masking tape armour casing also massively helps protect your fingers from cables ends that come out and slice your finger tips or plastic connectors that stab and draw blood! If you slice a fingertip while working it'll slow the process down a bit







(been there and done that... it makes typing rather painful).


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Ah yea the doubles are a bit of a wh~coughs~ pain...
> 
> Unfortunately imo the best solution to this PITA the PSU manufacturer's put on us is to make your own cables from scratch, and frankly that is the route I always elect to take, and especially with my PCIe's, because I think it looks better to me to /not/ have the secondary connector hanging around (plus this way I don't have to pull apart the stock cables at all and I have them for reference in any emergency that might come up in the future - I dislike pulling apart stock cables heh)
> 
> Had you considered making your PCIe's from scratch? It's far easier imo and I'd be happy to help walk you through how to not mess up the pin-out on the cable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only double wires I personally even /think/ about messing with is the capacitor's on 24-pin MB cables and an occasional molex power cable. I have had decent success with using various sizes of sleeving on capacitors, though I unfortunately can't find any pictures of that (I had a HDD fail and wipe out the vast majority of my old rig pictures like 5 or so years ago) I was, however, pondering sleeving my new PSU's 24pin just to keep it organized (It's not actually visible in my current build, my build is actually sleeve-less as I'm making custom "ribbon-cables" with silicone like so:
> 
> 
> Still, perhaps I can make time to sleeve one of the capacitor lines up as an example [if you don't want to make your own cables I mean] I'll dig through my boxes in a bit and see if I've got the stuff I need to do an example for ya


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> I feel your pain, Pez
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I sleeved the spare cables over time then had to spend nearly two entire days sleeving the 24pin and remaining cables. Not so bad if you can put old familiar movies or shows on in the background, that way you have ambient sounds and something to semi-distract yourself while sleeving but know the material well enough to still concentrate on the task at hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thanks for the words of encouragement from the both of you







. I think I may end up going the route of doing extensions or making my own. I agree that it looks quite tacky with the doubled cables. Not looking forward to the extra parts, but it may be the more plausible and better looking solution.

I actually pulled out my PCI-e cable and didn't realize I'd gotten through a few cables (about 5 or 6) before raging at the doubled up cables







. Hopefully once I'm more acclimated to my new schedule, I can find the time and motivation again to do it.


----------



## NotATroll

Thanks guys, great help!


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> @Mystriss, really nice guide! I like what you did to hide the capacitors, much neater than my outcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> The heatshrinkless approach looks really nice but getting the right melted end can be tricky especially in cases where the wire refuses to go back into the connector.
> 
> The burnt finger tips can be avoided by wrapping the thumb and index fingers in layers of masking tape
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The masking tape armour casing also massively helps protect your fingers from cables ends that come out and slice your finger tips or plastic connectors that stab and draw blood! If you slice a fingertip while working it'll slow the process down a bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (been there and done that... it makes typing rather painful).


mmmm Duct Tape armor has my stamp of approval. Though I've found the blood deco part makes my husband take my mod'ing more seriously (he's a mechanic.) We like to compare battle wounds at dinner









Fair warning though, I have never had any success trying to do heat-shrink-less with the way I did the capacitor there because of the 1/8" + 3/8" sleeve vs the 5-6mm heat-shrink; the mixed sizes don't want to melt down right for me. I have tried a number of methods, even cutting the sleeve end at an angle so there's no sleeve between the two wires, but I can never seem to get the double sleeve compressed enough to fit into the connector housing >.<

I've even used the nose of some small pliers to seriously stretch out 4mm heat-shrink but it's just not quite enough to get over the double sleeve wires (though I've done that to clean the 5-6mm heat-shrink into a nice point - see second pic) Ultimately the best I can get for heat-shrink-less doubles is (picture 3) where the sleeve doesn't actually go into the housing, and personally I don't think it looks very good :/

 


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Thanks for the words of encouragement from the both of you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I think I may end up going the route of doing extensions or making my own. I agree that it looks quite tacky with the doubled cables. Not looking forward to the extra parts, but it may be the more plausible and better looking solution.
> 
> I actually pulled out my PCI-e cable and didn't realize I'd gotten through a few cables (about 5 or 6) before raging at the doubled up cables
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Hopefully once I'm more acclimated to my new schedule, I can find the time and motivation again to do it.


There's no ompom: smiley!?!

I finded one just for you:


----------



## geort45

Hi!

Anyone can recommend where I precision pre-cut and pre-crimped cables? I enjoy sleeving but I don't have much time for that anymore, and what takes me the most time and it's less forgiving is making the actual wires... It'd save me a lot of time to buy them and just sleeve them myself...

Thanks a lot,


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> Anyone can recommend where I precision pre-cut and pre-crimped cables? I enjoy sleeving but I don't have much time for that anymore, and what takes me the most time and it's less forgiving is making the actual wires... It'd save me a lot of time to buy them and just sleeve them myself...
> 
> Thanks a lot,


A lot of people on OCN have used http://www.ensourced.net/

I haven't used them personally, but have never heard anything but good things about them.


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> A lot of people on OCN have used http://www.ensourced.net/
> 
> I haven't used them personally, but have never heard anything but good things about them.


Fantastic suggestion man, they do sell precision pre-cut cables... although not crimped but I'll ask anyway!

Thnks, repped


----------



## MillerModPCs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Fantastic suggestion man, they do sell precision pre-cut cables... although not crimped but I'll ask anyway!
> 
> Thnks, repped


These guys do: https://mainframecustom.com/product-category/cable-sleeving/pre-crimped-wire/


----------



## lowfat

Attempted to dye some sleeving today. It took a lot more work than I was expecting. Comparison pics w/ MDPC-X Grand Bleu and Color X. I rather like the dark red.


----------



## pez

That dark red is gorgeous. I know nothing of dye, but would it be reactive to the heat of a 'normal' PC? I.e. not watercooled, moderate ambient temps/heat


----------



## Himo5

cpachris is the one to talk to about dyeing sleeve and other plastics, though I've not seen him commenting on any fading effect from case temperatures.

I use Jacquard Idye Poly myself, which does a good job on sleeving so long as you bring it to the boil first and keep it simmering.

Connectors - especially opaque white ones - take the dye very quickly, you get the dye boiling then put them in for a minute at a time and must take them out immediately to start checking the colour.

The one item I can't get the dye on is the heatshrink, where cpachris has been very successful as the dye cools down beyond about 10 degrees from the simmering I haven't been able to get much colour on it at all, whether that is about the heatshrink or the dye I don't know.

The great thing about dyeing your own sleeve is you don't have to search for the odd sizes and items in the right colours.


----------



## lowfat

Ya I am familiar w/ cpachris dye work. I am using the same dye. Bought the stuff 3 years ago but never got around to using it. Not sure if I like the colours enough to use them. Unfortunately I just bought fuchsia and black when I bought the dyes. The fuchsia is coming out a bit too purple for me. Also having a few issues capturing the colours right in the pics.

The colours definitely won't run after they are set.


----------



## Himo5

It's always difficult getting photo colours to match what you actually see and most domestic lighting doesn't help at all. This LifeCam pic is about the best I can do without a natural light source but it doesn't show that the paleness of the heatshrink on the sleeve and connector sticks out like a sore thumb.



One thing I have found is that Idye Poly, at least, loses its sharpness after the powder bag has been opened for any length of time, so perhaps 3 years of storage was too much for what you had. However, if you haven't rinsed the sleeve yet, maybe there's a richer colour waiting to be revealed.


----------



## AreTheGod

Hi guys!
I actually got a problem. I'd like to single sleeve my PSU (a Seasonic 1000w ) but I just realized that the pin aren't matching on the Motherboard cables since there is 28 pin on the PSU side and the normal 24 pins at the MB side, so if I sleeve all the wire with the 4 colors that I choosed, will it looks really bad if I look on the PSU( because the colors will be mixed up ) ? I thought I could just sale it and then buy a Corsair Power supplies.
What should I do?
Thanks!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> Hi guys!
> I actually got a problem. I'd like to single sleeve my PSU (a Seasonic 1000w ) but I just realized that the pin aren't matching on the Motherboard cables since there is 28 pin on the PSU side and the normal 24 pins at the MB side, so if I sleeve all the wire with the 4 colors that I choosed, will it looks really bad if I look on the PSU( because the colors will be mixed up ) ? I thought I could just sale it and then buy a Corsair Power supplies.
> What should I do?
> Thanks!


AFAIK most Corsair power supplies will be the same way. Very few power supplies are 1:1. I know all Silverstone modular power supplies are. Which is why they are the only ones I buy.


----------



## AreTheGod

Quote:


> AFAIK most Corsair power supplies will be the same way. Very few power supplies are 1:1. I know all Silverstone modular power supplies are. Which is why they are the only ones I buy.


It seems that it matchs according to the Pinout that I just saw (  )
But I'll check Silverstone one's too









But again is it worth it? Because I think that it'll look pretty weird no?


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AreTheGod*
> 
> Hi guys!
> I actually got a problem. I'd like to single sleeve my PSU (a Seasonic 1000w ) but I just realized that the pin aren't matching on the Motherboard cables since there is 28 pin on the PSU side and the normal 24 pins at the MB side, so if I sleeve all the wire with the 4 colors that I choosed, will it looks really bad if I look on the PSU( because the colors will be mixed up ) ? I thought I could just sale it and then buy a Corsair Power supplies.
> What should I do?
> Thanks!


Can you do a quick sketch or something of your MB side sleeve color pattern? I'm sure we could help you figure out something that would look great on the PSU side









You can also move certain cables around on your PSU side so the pattern works right. To explain; pin 1 on the MB side is a 3.3v line and on the PSU side that can go to 5 different pin locations (any of the 3.3v ones) The same is true for all of your G(round)'s, the +12V's (Don't mistake the +12s for the -12v line), and the 5V lines. So there's a bit of "wiggle room" to hopefully get your pattern on the PSU side arranged.

Is this your PSU pin-out here? http://www.overclock.net/t/1420796/repository-of-power-supply-pin-outs/20#post_20680274 If so then I'm not sure how you thought you were going to do the same pattern as on your MB side anyway (because the PSU pins are laid out by voltage rather than any semblance to the MB pin-out heh)


----------



## AreTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Can you do a quick sketch or something of your MB side sleeve color pattern? I'm sure we could help you figure out something that would look great on the PSU side
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can also move certain cables around on your PSU side so the pattern works right. To explain; pin 1 on the MB side is a 3.3v line and on the PSU side that can go to 5 different pin locations (any of the 3.3v ones) The same is true for all of your G(round)'s, the +12V's (Don't mistake the +12s for the -12v line), and the 5V lines. So there's a bit of "wiggle room" to hopefully get your pattern on the PSU side arranged.
> 
> Is this your PSU pin-out here? http://www.overclock.net/t/1420796/repository-of-power-supply-pin-outs/20#post_20680274 If so then I'm not sure how you thought you were going to do the same pattern as on your MB side anyway (because the PSU pins are laid out by voltage rather than any semblance to the MB pin-out heh)


Yes ofc








This should be something like this


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






(The exact colors are MDPC Aquamarine MK2, MDPC Shade19 , MDPC Titanium Grey and some light grey)

Didn't think about moving cables but it seems to be a reeally nice idea!
About the PSU pin-out, yes it's this one. And well, I didn't think about this problem since now







and for me all PSU were like 24 pins
Thank's for your help and excuse my bad english


----------



## Akhenaton

Hi guys, which is the best pin removal tool?
I tried with this:



but the 24pin extractor sucks.
Then I tried with the homemade technique, but I destroyed my hands.
I have extracted some pins, but with great difficulty.

Is there a good pin removal tool in commerce?
What do you think about this?


----------



## Slam-It

I use a remover that looks similar to the one you posted second, laser cut metal. It works great for me but the tips can be bend very easily, so be careful.
All I can say...again and again....be patient and then in my opinion many options work great.

To answer your question "correctly": The one you posted should work just fine.

Hope I helped.

Slam


----------



## Akhenaton

Thank you! I'll try it


----------



## Mystriss

I find they're all about the same though the handle on this kit http://www.amazon.com/Lamptron-Computer-Modding-Tool-Kit-Silver/dp/B004EGBUHI/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1459218163&sr=8-12&keywords=ATX+pin+remover is really comfortable for extended usage - much less breaks for hand cramps.

That said, I'd modified a cheapo one years and years ago and it's the one I always grab because it works much better than anything else. I made one side just a hair shorter and sharpened the "tips" at an angle so they slide in better. Only thing you gotta watch for is the tips will poke right through the connector plastic at the peg joint if you push too hard. You could do this to any set.

Here's a magnification of my modified tips:



To utilize you get the longer side tip between the connector wall and pin wall, then you can just tilt the shorter tip down into place. For really stubborn ones you can get the shorter one in place then kind of angle the longer one up and it "clicks" in behind the pin wall (that's because of the sharper bevel on the short tip) - though I don't particularly like doing that since it bends the tips slightly, as you can see in the picture my shorter pin isn't at 90 degrees anymore heh)

Either way you go, modified tips or stock, make sure you push the wire up into the connector when you're trying to get the tips in place; it helps a ton.

Good Luck


----------



## Akhenaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I find they're all about the same though the handle on this kit http://www.amazon.com/Lamptron-Computer-Modding-Tool-Kit-Silver/dp/B004EGBUHI/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1459218163&sr=8-12&keywords=ATX+pin+remover is really comfortable for extended usage - much less breaks for hand cramps.
> 
> That said, I'd modified a cheapo one years and years ago and it's the one I always grab because it works much better than anything else. I made one side just a hair shorter and sharpened the "tips" at an angle so they slide in better. Only thing you gotta watch for is the tips will poke right through the connector plastic at the peg joint if you push too hard. You could do this to any set.
> 
> Here's a magnification of my modified tips:
> 
> 
> 
> To utilize you get the longer side tip between the connector wall and pin wall, then you can just tilt the shorter tip down into place. For really stubborn ones you can get the shorter one in place then kind of angle the longer one up and it "clicks" in behind the pin wall (that's because of the sharper bevel on the short tip) - though I don't particularly like doing that since it bends the tips slightly, as you can see in the picture my shorter pin isn't at 90 degrees anymore heh)
> 
> Either way you go, modified tips or stock, make sure you push the wire up into the connector when you're trying to get the tips in place; it helps a ton.
> 
> Good Luck


Thanks for your tips!
I think I'll try the extractor that i previously posted with your mods


----------



## kgtuning

Hey guys how would I sleeve this Vardar fan? I have mdpc sleeving but it's way too thick to put under those wire holders... Please and thank you!



Edit.. I know it has a factory sleeve but if I wanted to redo it.


----------



## Himo5

You might consider heat shrink instead. And with those straight channels you wouldn't have the problem of getting a clean bend under the clamps.



Oops, forgot to mention this is Exclusive Glossy Black Premium from ModDiy.

Priority One - label those unmarked wires ASAP.


----------



## lowfat

Macro of MDPC-X B Magic & Ranger Green.


----------



## Mega Man

how did i not know about this !~

for all who dont know, i love this crimper... it is epic and does "the perfect bite"

engineer PAD11

http://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PAD-11-Precision-Crimping-Interchangeable/dp/B00IWD9XT6



i bought the pad12s ( the #12 jaw) as well but imo it isnt needed !!!

i never used it on the fat 4 pins ( amp mate n lok ) as i have the AMP crimper

amp 90124-2-f

works great with 16ga iirc...

i have nils crimper. i love it bu tstill prefer the engineer , high quality !!!

hope this info helps people !!!


----------



## DarkWr8h

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akhenaton*
> 
> Thanks for your tips!
> I think I'll try the extractor that i previously posted with your mods


One more thing you may also have to do and try is making the tip a bit longer. I bought a cheapo kit which I kind of regret now but I made it work.

I bought the all general universally sold kit as such:



I had to modify the tip as such. ( now I know this drawing may not show as to how it exactly looks like but it gives an Idea of what I did ). I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel to grinde/cut off some of the metal to make it a bit longer. I also rounded the edges smooth. It works perfectly for me now.

Just take note I didn't need to cut off as much material as the below illustration shows. The picture shown already was long enough to show what I had done. You may only need to remove about 2-5 mm of material to suit your needs. Every tool may vary.


----------



## Akhenaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkWr8h*
> 
> One more thing you may also have to do and try is making the tip a bit longer. I bought a cheapo kit which I kind of regret now but I made it work.
> 
> I bought the all general universally sold kit as such:
> 
> 
> 
> I had to modify the tip as such. ( now I know this drawing may not show as to how it exactly looks like but it gives an Idea of what I did ). I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel to grind/cut off some of the metal to make it a bit longer. I also rounded the edges smooth. It works perfectly for me now.
> 
> Just take note I didn't need to cut off as much material as the above illustration shows. The picture shown already was long enough to show what I had done. You may only need to remove about 2-5 mm of material to suit your needs. Every tool may vary.


Thank you!
I'll try to modify my cheap kit too


----------



## wermad

Who sells the closed cable combs? Im thinking of doing all my lines sans sleeve.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> If you have the closed combs then they will work even with no sleeving or with sleeving.
> 
> see below picture. I do not know where you buy these now..


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Who sells the closed cable combs? Im thinking of doing all my lines sans sleeve.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> If you have the closed combs then they will work even with no sleeving or with sleeving.
> 
> see below picture. I do not know where you buy these now..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

mainframe customs has several cable comb choices


----------



## Mega Man

When did, or better question, why did lutro change to mainframe customs as his shop?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> mainframe customs has several cable comb choices


Tnx dude


----------



## madweazl

Mainframe hasnt had the more sizes of the combs in clear for a few weeks now; not sure they will back in stock.

I just started sleeving the new power supply but the 18awg wire I purchased made it really rough. The PETG has so much tension when pull tight, it actually forces the wire through terminals! Wouldnt be the end of the world but it has made the cables multiple different lengths varying up to 1/4". Guess I'm gonna have to find some different wire.

http://s779.photobucket.com/user/madweazl/media/sleeve_zpshged14m1.jpg.html


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> When did, or better question, why did lutro change to mainframe customs as his shop?


Its been a while. He joined some other people to be Mainframe, but he's been back out of the business for a while with personal issues.


----------



## colinreay

Total noob question. I am making the pinouts for my EVGA G2, and have noticed the ground wire switch on the Sata Power cables from connector to connector (while the 12v, 5v, and 3.3v stay the same.) I also noticed the pinout from changed from pcie cable (From what I have seen online, it looks like the PCIe has 3 12v, and 5 ground.) I am wondering if the ground cables (or any of the same connectors, 12v, etc.) can be switched to a straight pin to pin, instead of crossing over like they are, or if it actually makes a difference.


----------



## Dave6531

Alright all need some help. Working on doing the pin outs for an evga 850w p2 and don't know the best way to run. Evga doesn't make it easy that's for sure.


----------



## madweazl

What are the capacitors for? I just trimmed the original harness way down to use as an adapter so I could run straight cables the rest of the length.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Alright all need some help. Working on doing the pin outs for an evga 850w p2 and don't know the best way to run. Evga doesn't make it easy that's for sure.


Here's a thread that may help you http://www.overclock.net/t/1494167/tutorial-sleeving-evga-supernova-1300-g2-with-capacitors-and-stealth-lacing

I know some people just cut the capacitors off and sleeve, apparently with no issue.

I bought the red cable kit from EVGA for my 1300 G2 and they don't have capacitors!


----------



## Mega Man

the caps help with ?voltage reg? iirc, it has something to do with power quality


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madweazl*
> 
> What are the capacitors for? I just trimmed the original harness way down to use as an adapter so I could run straight cables the rest of the length.


That's what I'm doing, just need to find a good way to finish off the heat shrink less sleeving. Anyone have a way besides using heatshrink?


----------



## madweazl

Using the heatshrink to melt the sleeve is hands down the easiest method.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the caps help with ?voltage reg? iirc, it has something to do with power quality


Correct, the caps work as a filter to reduce any noise or ripple that could appear on the line(s) giving you smooth dc voltage. General consensus are they are unnecessary as higher performance motherboards and GPUs have adequate power filtering.


----------



## lu270bro

Here is my first try at sleeving a fan. Picked up some GT AP15's and was not a impressed with the sleeving that came on the fan. The original sleeve did not go all the way to the center, but stopped just short of where the conductors turn into the cable groove. I don't think it turned out bad at all. I used paracord, and had to cut off then re-crimp the ends. I picked up a Molex brand crimper in anticipation of doing a complete sleeving job on my psu. What do you guys think? Any suggestions, improvements? Thanks.


----------



## rathborne

Very nice







.

Been tempted to do the same to all my Noctua Redux fans as I'm really not super happy with the sleeving material they use (feels 'tacky' and bends awkwardly when trying to manage the cables).


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lu270bro*
> 
> Here is my first try at sleeving a fan. Picked up some GT AP15's and was not a impressed with the sleeving that came on the fan. The original sleeve did not go all the way to the center, but stopped just short of where the conductors turn into the cable groove. I don't think it turned out bad at all. I used paracord, and had to cut off then re-crimp the ends. I picked up a Molex brand crimper in anticipation of doing a complete sleeving job on my psu. What do you guys think? Any suggestions, improvements? Thanks.


Looks good!


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Are there any good sites with interactive templates I can use to start working on my color scheme a bit ?


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Are there any good sites with interactive templates I can use to start working on my color scheme a bit ?


Is this what you mean?


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Is this what you mean?


That is exactly what I was looking for ... +rep to you man







... thanks !!


----------



## mrtbahgs

A question for you professional sleevers,

Is there an ideal separation length or gap between the motherboard connector and the cable cutout hole it runs through to give the best looking arc?

I am working on a scratch build and soon will need to add in holes for the cables to run through so instead of guessing, I figured I would check with experienced users.
I am thinking too short or narrow of a gap would be worse than too wide, but at the same time going insanely wide won't look good either. So where is that happy medium?

Here is a quick photo of what I am doing to help give a visual.
Please view full size to be sure you see the drawn circles.
In the photo I think I made the drawn circles a bit too close, perhaps move them back another inch?


I might revisit random pages in this thread and random build logs to try and get an idea of what looks best, but if you can provide some sample shots of your distances I would appreciate it.
I think it would take a lot of time to stumble across a random image of what arc looks good to me so hopefully someone here can make things a bit easier on me.

Thanks for any help you can provide!


----------



## Mystriss

I'm afraid I haven't done slots or holes for sleeved cables so I cannot help with the measurements that work best here, but I wanted to say I think you are absolutely correct in your suspicion that the hole size matters if you want to hold a specific arc.

I've done sleeved arc's, but it was changing the lengths of the individual wires themselves that held the arc rather than any slot:

 

I've done un-sleeved cable slots where the size of the slot was absolutely key to the cables holding position, but not an "arc" shape:

  

 

As well as un-sleeved cables where holding an arc was key, but "positioning" was unimportant - and because I am going for a "ribbon cable" look here I actually used silicone adhesive on the back side to hold the arc's and curve's:

   

That said, if I were attempting to hold an arc with sleeved cables as you are, I think I would try a combination of ideas to do it.

When I made the above custom sata power cable with decorative arc's, I had an external PSU and ultimately decided to route all those wires under the MB and out the back of the chassis as you can see here:



The first time I did this cabling, those wires were sleeved all the way to the PSU connector as I'd thought to route them the traditional way - over/beside the MB and out a back PCI slot. After trying many arrangements I wasn't pleased with I decided to route them under the MB. Making holes big enough for the sleeved cables themselves would not have fit in the narrow space I had to put them on the back of the chassis, so I cut the sleeving at the chassis. I distinctly remember the sleeved wires had been kind of "tensioned" in an "s" shape because I had not cut the sleeving back far enough before sending the individual un-sleeved wires through the drilled holes in the chassis; aka the combination of the sleeve not fitting through the drilled holes, and the sleeving being longer than the distance I was covering, kind of forced the wires into a natural curvature.

While it might be a bit more work, for a "free hanging arc" (like I have on the back of my drives above, except longer enough that gravity would cause said arc to droop incorrectly) I would use a combination of the length of the individual wires to dictate the exact curvature I wanted to see in the "up/down" plane, and then to hold the "left/right" plane look I would end the sleeving at a thin plywood slot and use the thickness of the sleeving to "tension" the cable where I wanted the arc positioned. Of course the problem with this information for you, is that my entire idea relies upon experience with sleeved cables and the "tensions" and "natural curvature" ratios of the sleeving being used, in addition to the exact "hang" and "arc" I was attempting to hold - so basically I don't believe there is a hard/fast answer to your question using this kind of method because there are too many variables







(Basically something like this would be very tedious, doing one wire at a time to get exactly the right arc in exactly the right position...

However, I have an alternate idea that might work for you. I recall earlier in the thread discussion about full body combs (aka not just small "slots" for the individual wires to slide into, but rather individually drilled fully encased holes in the comb) - I think if you were to put one of those in as a dual purpose spacer in the slot through your plywood, it would not only help hold your cables in position, but would also cover up the plywood slot and give you an almost invisible pass-through.
.


----------



## mrtbahgs

@Mystriss Thank you for the detailed post and lots of photos to go with it, a few certainly helped me out and you also brought up one or two things I hadn't considered.

One thing to note is that I maybe didn't word my original request very well and the gap that I am referring to is the distance from the connector on the motherboard to the hole the cable passes through and not the actual size of the cutout.
I plan to make the cutout as tight as possible to limit the see-through effect.
Another way to think of or say it would be, the optimal distance from the edge of the motherboard to the beginning edge of the cutout for the cable.

Here is a revised image to show the distance I am questioning using just the 24 pin as an example.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> @Mystriss Thank you for the detailed post and lots of photos to go with it, a few certainly helped me out and you also brought up one or two things I hadn't considered.
> 
> One thing to note is that I maybe didn't word my original request very well and the gap that I am referring to is the distance from the connector on the motherboard to the hole the cable passes through and not the actual size of the cutout.
> I plan to make the cutout as tight as possible to limit the see-through effect.
> Another way to think of or say it would be, the optimal distance from the edge of the motherboard to the beginning edge of the cutout for the cable.
> 
> Here is a revised image to show the distance I am questioning using just the 24 pin as an example.


Ah I think I see what you mean, and in that case, to answer your question; No. I do not believe there is any standard measurement here because it's entirely subjective to the look that /you/ would like to achieve. heh

In my current build, I want as little of my cables disrupting the light line on an acrylic MB tray as possible, so I have basically shaped all of my custom cables to be as snug as possible to the edge of the MB (as well as to the back plate and underside of my GPU) - basically giving me a nearly "wireless" look. Here are some examples of what I'm doing (the light tray lit up, then pictures of the cabling):

       

If you /really/ want to get it right, then I suggest making a mock MB cable up to find what you want - just cut some shorter lengths of raw wire and "dry fit" them into a MB connector then play around with the arc and spacing until you have the look you want and mark your cut-out. You don't need to pin up the wires, just slip them into the MB connector and fiddle away- I actually used this technique when I designed the [what I call] "waterfall" effect for all my ribbon cables. Just don't forget to account for the sleeving on the wires (personally I'd actually trash some sleeve and slip them on the wires exactly how I planned to do the final cable and test with that, but I'm a bit OCD heh)

( Funny story, I used /NONE/ of the cables in any of the following "tutorials," I actually ended up fabricating my own ribbon cables with 16 gauge, but its just the "dry fit" technique that I'm trying to show







)


Spoiler: some tutorial excerpts from my build log to help explain what I mean by dry fitting



(Post #27 because the photos mess up the bookmark link alignment) - http://www.overclock.net/t/1441548/build-log-consummation-dual-htpc-water-cooled-audiophile-stereo-build/20#post_24236961

In other stuff, I finished up half of the custom MB cable. I ended up staggering the wires to get it to lay right (which I hadn't done on the GPU connectors but should have). I found the best way to do that was to stick all the wires in the connector and get them lined up evenly, then fold over at a sharp 90 to mark a "straight" point on the wires, then once they were out of the connector use my "straight" to line them up and cut them off:

   

And the finished cable, it's got a pretty funky shape because it wraps around the LED panel to exit the bottom of the case:

    

Though I really like the way it turned out, with both layers of the 12 wire ribbon it sticks out pretty far over my light line so I'm pondering another solution for this cable. We'll see what happens.

(Post #40) - http://www.overclock.net/t/1441548/build-log-consummation-dual-htpc-water-cooled-audiophile-stereo-build/30#post_24860446

For this temporary 8pin CPU power cable I used the corsair-style 18 gauge ribbon because I ran out of 16 gauge wire and I didn't want to wait to cut the cable holes in the MB. I'll replace this cable when my spool of wire ships (the 16g will be a bit wider than this one is, but this is the look I'm going for). To set this waterfall(?) design up, I "dry-fit" the wires in the connector and arranged them (on the board so I got the bends right to go under the mb) and sniped individual wires as needed until it looked just right. Then when I pulled it out of the connector, looking at it from the side it was easy to even up the wires for pinning. Was kind of a pain to pin because I had to be /very/ careful to face the pins exactly right, also a pill to get it in the connector once it's pinned without pulling apart the ribbon cable; I did the "inside" shorter two wires then worked to the "outside" longest ones. With the 16 gauge wire this will be a lot easier to do since I'll be working with individual wires heh

 




"Bonus tutorial" on how to get perfectly aligned pins and such that one might find useful ( Post #32 ~ http://www.overclock.net/t/1441548/build-log-consummation-dual-htpc-water-cooled-audiophile-stereo-build/30#post_24545525 )
.


----------



## Mega Man

wow, i wwant to do something like this once, for some reason i like that look although it seems most reviewers hate it


----------



## Mystriss

Ribbon cables you mean? I agree there are an awful lot of folks who seem to think they're antiquated or something. Heck I suppose that goes for the "desktop" style chassis and stereo racks as well.








I did this build for me not reviews though. I'm a child of the 80s; stereo racks and the first desktop PC's are what I grew up on. I will say, that my sons have grown up to share my preference for desktop style cases though, so maybe it's making a come back


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Ribbon cables you mean? I agree there are an awful lot of folks who seem to think they're antiquated or something. Heck I suppose that goes for the "desktop" style chassis and stereo racks as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did this build for me not reviews though. I'm a child of the 80s; stereo racks and the first desktop PC's are what I grew up on. I will say, that my sons have grown up to share my preference for desktop style cases though, so maybe it's making a come back


Depending on where they are and how they are used, ribbon cables are usually harder to route since the flat space makes them difficult to impossible to bend sideways and I've always replaced them in the past with my own round cables (see my build in my sig: for the record, even though they can be attractive, I do not care for individually sleeved cables since they are bulkier and far more visible) but you have shown me how ribbon cables can be used to minimize the appearance of cables coming off the MOBO, especially since the can duck under the MOBO. By custom building the cables, they can be "trained" to turn sideways. Thank you!


----------



## lu270bro

ok, so here is my try at a 24-pin. I have the Seasonic 1050 XP3 going into my upcoming first water-cooling build attempt in a Parvum L1.0. This is just an extension. I used 16awg from here http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/122/825/=127qs, the Molex brand crimp tool for the pins, oem Molex pins, and paracord. I would like to have used Teleios or MDPC-X, but in my own opinion the color options are lacking compared to paracord. From my endeavor here, I highly suggest against non-Molex brand pins. The Molex brand is not much more and the quality is so much better than the knock-off crap. The wire I used has a smaller outer jacket than what you would normally find on commonly found 16awg at the local hardware store/Lowes/Home Depot. It works really well with the paracord. I was looking for a yellowish green color, and finally found one that is about as close as I could get to what I wanted. I also made a short "converter" tail which will plug between the power supply and the extension. I did not wnat to tackle a 28-pin to 24-pin sleeving job as I am sure I would have botched that one somehow. Anyways, here are the pics:


----------



## Slam-It

Beautiful. Well done









I like paracord and the green and grey one you picked with these black fibres look very good in my opinion. Didn´t actually thought it would look that good when I saw them in the shop when I was searching for mine.


----------



## lu270bro

Thanks! it looks way better in person. I was looking for some solid color cord in this color but no dice. This was the closest I could find. The actual colors from Bored Paracord are Silver with Black Stripe and Neon Yellow with Black Stripe. The neon yellow with black stripe is not really yellow at all, obviously, but more of the slime/ogre green color I was going for.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lu270bro*
> 
> I also made a short "converter" tail which will plug between the power supply and the extension. I did not wnat to tackle a 28-pin to 24-pin sleeving job as I am sure I would have botched that one somehow. Anyways, here are the pics:


Nice job ... they look good. Are those solid combs (ie need to put them on before putting the pins in?)? If so, where did you pick those up?

I am looking at getting a SeaSonic Snow Silent 750w and I too want to create a small connector / converter and then an extension. However, I am worried about getting the pinning correct.

How did you manage it? One approach that I am thinking about is taking the provided 24-pin cable and just shortening it. Will that work? Are there complex pinning required at both ends?

Hmm ... looks like this 24-pin power cable is split 18-10 (28 pins from the PSU) ... so there probably will be some doubling up at the MB end.

Ref: www.pcper.com and www.techpowerup.com


----------



## lu270bro

Ok ruffhi, here's what I did: I ordered some new end connectors so I wouldn't have to sacrifice the oem 24 pin to 28 pin cable. After figuring out which cables had a splice-I ended up with quantity of 4 2-wire to 1-wire splices- I fabricated the 4 splices. Next, I installed those 4 splices into the connectors using the original oem cable as the guide to ensure I had it correct. After that, it's just a matter of fabricating the remaining wires and installing them in the same manner as the splices..... using the oem cable as a guide. Once I got the splices installed, I got a better idea of how long the rest of the jumpers needed to be. Just go slow, don't rush, and use the oem cable as a guide if you can. I also suggest to make a pin out diagram and then test the completed converter cable with a continuity meter. If you run into any issues give me a shout and I will help out if I can.

The cable combs are Gosumodz. They are aluminum I think. Got them from Mainframe Customs. They are very good quality, highly recommended. I was able to pin both sides of the jumper first and then slide them into the comb. Just watch your build-up when melting the sleeve. I used paracord and it wasn't that bad, but the black paracord I used seemed to melt a bit more and tended to gob up. Once I got that under control it was easy peas.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lu270bro*
> 
> Ok ruffhi, here's what I did: I ordered some new end connectors so I wouldn't have to sacrifice the oem 24 pin to 28 pin cable. After figuring out which cables had a splice-I ended up with quantity of 4 2-wire to 1-wire splices- I fabricated the 4 splices. Next, I installed those 4 splices into the connectors using the original oem cable as the guide to ensure I had it correct. After that, it's just a matter of fabricating the remaining wires and installing them in the same manner as the splices..... using the oem cable as a guide. Once I got the splices installed, I got a better idea of how long the rest of the jumpers needed to be. Just go slow, don't rush, and use the oem cable as a guide if you can. I also suggest to make a pin out diagram and then test the completed converter cable with a continuity meter. If you run into any issues give me a shout and I will help out if I can.


Thx lu270bro for the info and suggestions. I am building an order at Mainframe Customs for the converter tail and 24-pin extension. I have 7 tons of teleios sleeving (ok, maybe not 7 tons, but enough) and plenty of time on my hands at the moment.

The only problem is that I have three competing orders that I want to get ...
1) PSU so that I can make the 24-pin extension and converter
2) 2 x aqua computer pumps so that I can use them to flush my radiators
3) 2 x WD 4TB drives so that I can expand my NAS from 6 to 8 HDDs

... but I don't have all of that $$s at the moment. Trying to work out which one goes first.







First world problems.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lu270bro*
> The cable combs are Gosumodz. They are aluminum I think. Got them from Mainframe Customs.


Thx - I'll add them to my order.


----------



## pez

If you've got free time, the sleeving will feel more rewarding. It did for me even when doing my SATA cables







.

Also do it while you have the motivation...I still have yet to get myself going again







.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> The only problem is that I have three competing orders that I want to get ...
> 1) PSU so that I can make the 24-pin extension and converter
> 2) 2 x aqua computer pumps so that I can use them to flush my radiators
> 3) 2 x WD 4TB drives so that I can expand my NAS from 6 to 8 HDDs


You have to love paypal's '_pay no interest for 6 months_'. PSU on order, arrives Wednesday. I contacted SeaSonic and they emailed me the pin-out pages. first things first, work out how to read the pin-outs. I'll wait until the PSU gets here before looking into that.


----------



## lu270bro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> You have to love paypal's '_pay no interest for 6 months_'. PSU on order, arrives Wednesday. I contacted SeaSonic and they emailed me the pin-out pages. first things first, work out how to read the pin-outs. I'll wait until the PSU gets here before looking into that.










most excellent!

Did you grab the SS 750W? I just finished making the pinout for the 8-pin pcie - just as I type this - for my Platinum 1050 XP3. Here is how I made mine....

the A#4 pin is not used so I left that one blank. the sketch at the bottom is so I know where the 4-pin and where the 3 pin plugs into the gpu. I would hate to get done sleeving and have the sleeve colors out of order.

Here is how i did the splices - its a soldered joint, and I will cover with heatshrink and have the sleeving terminate underneath the heatshrink. The 8-pin i just did has a 2-to-1 (See the diagram, A side #8 goes to B side #5 and #6):


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lu270bro*
> 
> Which PSU you getting?


The SeaSonic Snow Silent 750w.

FC-KM3-S01-A3.pdf 213k .pdf file


----------



## lu270bro

Yep, I derped and seen where you mentioned the model earlier. That's pretty cool that they sent you that pinout. Pretty darn thorough. Good luck!


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lu270bro*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> You have to love paypal's '_pay no interest for 6 months_'. PSU on order, arrives Wednesday. I contacted SeaSonic and they emailed me the pin-out pages. first things first, work out how to read the pin-outs. I'll wait until the PSU gets here before looking into that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> most excellent!
> 
> Did you grab the SS 750W? I just finished making the pinout for the 8-pin pcie - just as I type this - for my Platinum 1050 XP3. Here is how I made mine....
> 
> the A#4 pin is not used so I left that one blank. the sketch at the bottom is so I know where the 4-pin and where the 3 pin plugs into the gpu. I would hate to get done sleeving and have the sleeve colors out of order.
> 
> Here is how i did the splices - its a soldered joint, and I will cover with heatshrink and have the sleeving terminate underneath the heatshrink. The 8-pin i just did has a 2-to-1 (See the diagram, A side #8 goes to B side #5 and #6):
Click to expand...

That's a nicely done solder joint, much better looking than some of the joints I've seen by many sleeving experts!


----------



## ruffhi

Re the converter tail thingo ... I have a whole bunch of 22AWG (black or white) and 16AWG (black or white). The pin-out talks about 18 or 22 depending on the pin. Am I right in thinking that I can use 16 for all? 16 is 1.29mm diameter while 18 is 1.02mm diameter ... it isn't a problem going thicker? Just a problem going thinner?

While I am at it ... I might also mix colors (black / white) wire just because I can.

Actually ... my whole PSU is white. I will do the converter tail thingo in all white too







. Maybe use black for the splicers so that I can see them.


----------



## lu270bro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Re the converter tail thingo ... I have a whole bunch of 22AWG (black or white) and 16AWG (black or white). The pin-out talks about 18 or 22 depending on the pin. Am I right in thinking that I can use 16 for all? 16 is 1.29mm diameter while 18 is 1.02mm diameter ... it isn't a problem going thicker? Just a problem going thinner?
> 
> While I am at it ... I might also mix colors (black / white) wire just because I can.
> 
> Actually ... my whole PSU is white. I will do the converter tail thingo in all white too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Maybe use black for the splicers so that I can see them.


Yes you are correct in that you can go with a bigger gauge wire but not smaller. I used all 16awg for mine even tho 18 would have been fine. Can't wait to see it, bet it will look slick!


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lu270bro*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Re the converter tail thingo ... I have a whole bunch of 22AWG (black or white) and 16AWG (black or white). The pin-out talks about 18 or 22 depending on the pin. Am I right in thinking that I can use 16 for all? 16 is 1.29mm diameter while 18 is 1.02mm diameter ... it isn't a problem going thicker? Just a problem going thinner?
> 
> While I am at it ... I might also mix colors (black / white) wire just because I can.
> 
> Actually ... my whole PSU is white. I will do the converter tail thingo in all white too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Maybe use black for the splicers so that I can see them.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes you are correct in that you can go with a bigger gauge wire but not smaller. I used all 16awg for mine even tho 18 would have been fine. Can't wait to see it, bet it will look slick!
Click to expand...

Mainframe Customs sells wire up to #16 with much thinner insulation that makes crimping on pins _much_ easier, especially for #16. Even though Mainframe prices the wire in 25' lengths, if you order several multiples of 25', such as 50', 75', etc., they will send it to you as one length in a hand coil.

I used to be able to crimp as many as two #14 wires onto a single pin but I haven't been able to find any pins with long enough wings anymore. I did find some pins at Allied Electronics (click on the data sheet to see what they look like) recently that will work fairly well with #14 wire, although they're a bit tricky (yes, I know #14 is humongous but I use it only for long, high current draw cables with numerous devices on them, such as a SATA power cable with nine sockets on it to avoid excessive voltage drop; otherwise, I use #16).

I got a 100' reel of #14 hookup wire at Frys Electronics a few years ago and still have almost half of it left. I had no problems using with the pins I could get back then but the ones I've been able to find recently wouldn't work well, if at all. I wanted to get some more but Fry's no longer has the 100' reels (Fry's is the Walmart of electronics). I found out the 25' Shaxon reels they now sell actually has thinner insulation. It's only 0.020" thinner but that little bit makes a huge difference with the Allied pins.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Mainframe Customs sells wire up to #16 with much thinner insulation that makes crimping on pins _much_ easier, especially for #16. Even though Mainframe prices the wire in 25' lengths, if you order several multiples of 25', such as 50', 75', etc., they will send it to you as one length in a hand coil.


Thx Lady Fitzgerald ... I have about 100' of their wire downstairs. 25' of #16, 25' of #22 (black and white).

My SeaSonic PSU turned up today. I've taken a bunch of 'unboxing' photos and have already decided to mod the fan grill. I've also denuded the 24-pin cable. There are 27 wires running form the 18 and 10 pin connectors to the 24 pin connector. Four (4) sets of two are double crimped.

I've also drawn up my first wiring diagram ... but I am not sure if I have the convention correct.

This is what I did ...

Looked at the pin out diagram from the PDF (a couple of posts above ... but also below for the 18 pin)

worked out that the diagram is the pin layout if you are looking into the 'plug in' end of the connector (not into the wire end)

key to this for me was the empty 7 pin as well as the pin shapes (square, hex-ish, etc)


followed the pin diagram and put the pin numbers for the 24 pin connector in the diagram

So ... this is what I have ...



















Do I have it correct? If so, I will knock up the 10 pin connector and the 24-pin connector. I also want to see if I can alternate black wire / white wire on the top row of the connectors.


----------



## ruffhi

While I am in QUESTION mode







... I am looking at the ASUS STRIX GeForce GTX 980 GPU that needs an 6-pin and 8-pin PCI-e connection. The PSU I have has 6 x 8-pin PCI-e outlets ... so I am guessing that I can just use one of the 8-pin PSU side connections with a 6+2 GPU side connection.

I want to swap to white connectors (the white PSU came with black cables ... you should see everyone on the boards bleating about that!) ... Do I need to order 'special' white 8-pin connectors? Are the PSU or GPU connectors special / specific? Or are they generic?

The pin-out implies that the 8-pin cable is a straight shot from end to end ... so no special tail is required. Is that right?


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> While I am QUESTION mode
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... I am looking at the ASUS STRIX GeForce GTX 980 GPU that needs an 6-pin and 8-pin PCI-e connection. The PSU I have has 6 x 8-pin PCI-e outlets ... so I am guessing that I can just use one of the 8-pin PSU side connections with a 6+2 GPU side connection.
> 
> I want to swap to white connectors (the white PSU came with black cables ... you should see everyone on the boards bleating about that!) ... Do I need to order 'special' white 8-pin connectors? Are the PSU or GPU connectors special / specific? Or are they generic?
> 
> The pin-out implies that the 8-pin cable is a straight shot from end to end ... so no special tail is required. Is that right?


While the connector to the GPU (the 6&8pin PCIe) connectors are standard, unfortunately the PSU side is not. My SilverStone 1200W actually used an outdated version of a PCIe connectors, the another PSU I had was a propitiatory connector I ended up having to paint because I couldn't find a replacement for it anywhere... I've had uhm four modular PSU's not one of them has had the same PCIe connectors heh

Can you snap a picture of the existing GPU cables PSU side connector (specifically from the side that plugs into the PSU) If we examine the pattern of pegs and squares we can hopefully determine what kind of connector it is (and thus how easy it'd be to replace heh)


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> While the connector to the GPU (the 6&8pin PCIe) connectors are standard, unfortunately the PSU side is not. My SilverStone 1200W actually used an outdated version of a PCIe connectors, the another PSU I had was a propitiatory connector I ended up having to paint because I couldn't find a replacement for it anywhere... I've had uhm four modular PSU's not one of them has had the same PCIe connectors heh
> 
> Can you snap a picture of the existing GPU cables PSU side connector (specifically from the side that plugs into the PSU) If we examine the pattern of pegs and squares we can hopefully determine what kind of connector it is (and thus how easy it'd be to replace heh)


Here you go. My cables have nice, neat 'PSU' or 'CPU' stamps on each end. Below is a picture of the PSU end of the 8-pin cable. The other end is a 6+2 pin PCI-E plug. The PSU end also has a BG12 stamp on it.










Edit: This looks like a common 8-pin connector. The PSU on this page (rosewell) seems to take that connector and the 8-pin connector that PPCs is selling matches too.


----------



## kgtuning

Does anyone know if someone makes a 90 degree 24 pin connector? like plug it into the motherboard side then plug in the 24 pin cable.


----------



## timerwin63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Does anyone know if someone makes a 90 degree 24 pin connector? like plug it into the motherboard side then plug in the 24 pin cable.


Not that I know of, because of how fragile the pins would be. EVGA (I think) had 90° 24-pin connectors on some of their boards, and I think you can find those around the web, if you're willing to go and mod your motherboard.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Not that I know of, because of how fragile the pins would be. EVGA (I think) had 90° 24-pin connectors on some of their boards, and I think you can find those around the web, if you're willing to go and mod your motherboard.


Lol I'm brave... but not that brave. I was just curious. Actually i was going to buy the Evga X99 classy board that has a built in 90 degree connector, actually where i got the idea from. I changed my mind on the motherboard and am choosing a different board. Thanks.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Here you go. My cables have nice, neat 'PSU' or 'CPU' stamps on each end. Below is a picture of the PSU end of the 8-pin cable. The other end is a 6+2 pin PCI-E plug. The PSU end also has a BG12 stamp on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: This looks like a common 8-pin connector. The PSU on this page (rosewell) seems to take that connector and the 8-pin connector that PPCs is selling matches too.


Yep looks like your standard 8pin PCIe, makes it easier for sure!

http://www.moddiy.com/products/8%252dPin-PCI%252dExpress-PCIE-Power-Female-Connector-w%7B47%7D-Pins-%252d-White.html Also has them


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *timerwin63*
> 
> Not that I know of, because of how fragile the pins would be. EVGA (I think) had 90° 24-pin connectors on some of their boards, and I think you can find those around the web, if you're willing to go and mod your motherboard.
> 
> 
> 
> Lol I'm brave... but not that brave. I was just curious. Actually i was going to buy the Evga X99 classy board that has a built in 90 degree connector, actually where i got the idea from. I changed my mind on the motherboard and am choosing a different board. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I would get a BitFenix ATX 24-pin extension cable. You still have wires showing, but it is very flexible so its easy to bend the wires to the point where very little shows - and it looks nice. Matches the CableMod cables, actually - just slightly bigger.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Does anyone know if someone makes a 90 degree 24 pin connector? like plug it into the motherboard side then plug in the 24 pin cable.


I have yet to find one but take a look toward the bottom of post #27 in this thread to see how this clever lass dealt with the problem.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> I have yet to find one but take a look toward the bottom of post #27 in this thread to see how this clever lass dealt with the problem.


Ahh yes.. that is cleaver. Definitely very clean. Nice job. I may end up doing something similar... thanks.


----------



## Mystriss

Hey that's mine!









If you're doing 18awg then they already make the cables up for that stuff, called "Corsair-Style" on PPCS (Comes in 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 12 conductor [wire] versions) Here's some of the cables I'd made with that. I only had to create my own because I was using 16awg with the new PSU:

EDIT - oops here's the linky http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=corsair+style

    

But there is also these though I never got around to trying it out; solder a pin on the end's there, plug n go. (I've seen them in that translucent nappy white on Amazon so it's possible you could find em on there too): http://www.moddiy.com/products/24%252dPin-ATX-Power-Male-Header-Connector-%252d-90%25-Angled-%252d-Black.html

OR, same idea, but homemade w/solid wire (pin on each end between two female connectors I mean) This isn't a 90 angle example, just of solid wire cabling; the second one there I'd put in black heat shrink):

 

Also here's the awesome-sauce build log from a fellow mod'er on here using rigid cables, was just epic. Now sadly the pics are all gone :*( but they talk about what he used, brass rods from the hobby shop on like page 6 or so (gave him a much easier time for straightening heh) I actually used tinned copper in the pics above ( http://www.amazon.com/Tinned-Copper-Bright-Silver-Diameter/dp/B000IJW808?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage ) because we have like no hobby shops in Alaska lol


----------



## kgtuning

@MystrissYou are a wealth of knowledge and ideas.


----------



## Mystriss

Thanks, unfortunately not all of them are good, I can't count how many times I've had to start over on stuff with my build, or had things not work out right









I just the other day realized that my MB might be sitting too high for the top to go on my case after I water-block the GPU so I'm gonna have to take the whole thing apart and somehow try to finagle shorter stand-offs in, while still leaving clearance for a 6mm thick LED tray /and/ at least two layers of my cabling heh


----------



## ruffhi

I've finished my 10-, 18- and 24-pin out diagram. I've got the numbers color coded so that I know which of the PSU side connectors the wire is coming from (green = 18-pin, yellow = 10-pin) and I have also color coded the wire (dark blue background = black, light blue background = white). Both of the PSU connectors are on an alternating black / white pattern.

I also have some connectors and pins coming from MAINFrame Custom (*edit:* due Monday dropped off by the postie while I was typing this up) as well as some white versions of the other connectors (6-pin, 8-pin, 10-pin) and some combs coming from modGuru.

Activities for this weekend ...

learn how to solder

OR learn how to double crimp some wires

go to HomeDepot for some black spray paint & hinges (unrelated projects)

Watch Captain America: Civil War


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Thanks, unfortunately not all of them are good, I can't count how many times I've had to start over on stuff with my build, or had things not work out right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just the other day realized that my MB might be sitting too high for the top to go on my case after I water-block the GPU so I'm gonna have to take the whole thing apart and somehow try to finagle shorter stand-offs in, while still leaving clearance for a 6mm thick LED tray /and/ at least two layers of my cabling heh


I hear that... i usually measure 50 times cut once throw away 3 rebuy and try again. Lol


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I've finished my 10-, 18- and 24-pin out diagram. I've got the numbers color coded so that I know which of the PSU side connectors the wire is coming from (green = 18-pin, yellow = 10-pin) and I have also color coded the wire (dark blue background = black, light blue background = white). Both of the PSU connectors are on an alternating black / white pattern.
> 
> I also have some connectors and pins coming from MAINFrame Custom (*edit:* due Monday dropped off by the postie while I was typing this up) as well as some white versions of the other connectors (6-pin, 8-pin, 10-pin) and some combs coming from modGuru.
> 
> Activities for this weekend ...
> 
> learn how to solder
> 
> OR learn how to double crimp some wires
> 
> go to HomeDepot for some black spray paint & hinges (unrelated projects)
> 
> Watch Captain America: Civil War
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


BLASPHEME! It's Star Wars weekend, what's wrong with you!?! May the fourth be with you, Revenge of the fifth, etc.







( It's an annual tradition in my house heh )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> I hear that... i usually measure 50 times cut once throw away 3 rebuy and try again. Lol


Ugh I wish it was just sleeving these days, now it's like $50 piece of brushed aluminum etc. heh


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> BLASPHEME! It's Star Wars weekend, what's wrong with you!?! May the fourth be with you, Revenge of the fifth, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( It's an annual tradition in my house heh )


I (re)watched IV, V and VI leading up to the release VII. I then went back and watched I (I know! Ended up not watching some segments) and II. I just cannot bring myself to watch III

_Emperor: Join me on the dark side
Anakin: No, I will not join you.
Emperor: You know you want to.
Anakin: Ok._

I also just ordered Battle of Five Armies after a 35% price drop









Oh ... one last thing ... you know the rest of the world says 4th of May ... and so Star Wars day doesn't work there. Neither does pi day but who ever needed an excuse to eat pie!


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Thanks, unfortunately not all of them are good, I can't count how many times I've had to start over on stuff with my build, or had things not work out right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just the other day realized that my MB might be sitting too high for the top to go on my case after I water-block the GPU so I'm gonna have to take the whole thing apart and somehow try to finagle shorter stand-offs in, while still leaving clearance for a 6mm thick LED tray /and/ at least two layers of my cabling heh
> 
> 
> 
> I hear that... i usually measure 50 times cut once throw away 3 rebuy and try again. Lol
Click to expand...

Dang, you're almost as bad as I am!


----------



## ruffhi

Before I go crimp crazy ... can someone give me an opinion on these ...

I stripped about 3mm off each wire end and crimped them so that the rear wings caught the insulation and the front wings caught the wire. For the double crimp, I stripped 6mm off the top wire and positioned it so that the rear wings caught the extra exposed wire. The front wings caught only wire from both pieces.

No sweat if you say the double crimped wire looks crap as I did it without looking at my pinning guide ... only to realize that 3 of the 4 double crimping wire combs need to be made from all white wire ... while the 4th is a black / white combo.

Picture info ... top left: double crimp, top right: single crimp, bottom: collective shot (the single strand looks 'short'







).


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Before I go crimp crazy ... can someone give me an opinion on these ...
> 
> I stripped about 3mm off each wire end and crimped them so that the rear wings caught the insulation and the front wings caught the wire. For the double crimp, I stripped 6mm off the top wire and positioned it so that the rear wings caught the extra exposed wire. The front wings caught only wire from both pieces.
> 
> No sweat if you say the double crimped wire looks crap as I did it without looking at my pinning guide ... only to realize that 3 of the 4 double crimping wire combs need to be made from all white wire ... while the 4th is a black / white combo.
> 
> Picture info ... top left: double crimp, top right: single crimp, bottom: collective shot (the single strand looks 'short'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


The single wire crimp looks Ok but, if you are using one of those crimpers that crimps both wings at once, I would crimp the wings on the conductor a second time so the entire width of the pins are crimped.

The two wire crimp is problematic. The purpose of the longer, outside wings is to grip the insulation so it can act as a strain relief to prevent the conductor strands from bending too much. The only way I would trust that crimp would be to tie the second wire to the first wire, either with superglue or a heat shrink so the wires can flex only at the insulation, not the conductor only. The best way would be to find pins with long enough wings that would allow you to crimp the insulation and conductor side by side instead of staggered as you do. Plan B would be to crimp a single wire to the pin and make a soldered splice a little ways after the crimp after the crimp. These pins have the longest wings I've found so far.

Edit: I don't know what size wire you are using but I just tried crimping two #16 to one of the pins I linked above and failed miserably. The wire I'm using is from MainFrame Customs. Their wire has thinner insulation than most wire, enough to make crimping larger wire (or dual wires) much easier. I suspect that #18 or #20 wire from Main frame would work with the pins I linked above (I don't have any handy right now or I would test it) for you.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go crimp crazy ... can someone give me an opinion on these ...
> 
> I stripped about 3mm off each wire end and crimped them so that the rear wings caught the insulation and the front wings caught the wire. For the double crimp, I stripped 6mm off the top wire and positioned it so that the rear wings caught the extra exposed wire. The front wings caught only wire from both pieces.
> 
> No sweat if you say the double crimped wire looks crap as I did it without looking at my pinning guide ... only to realize that 3 of the 4 double crimping wire combs need to be made from all white wire ... while the 4th is a black / white combo.
> 
> Picture info ... top left: double crimp, top right: single crimp, bottom: collective shot (the single strand looks 'short'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


@ruffhi Have you deliberately crimped the 3rd set of wings down (from the wire end).
They are not normally crimped.
That set of wings are a guide to get the pin into the connector and the way you have done yours, they may not fit.
Have you checked that crimps can be inserted into a connector in and click into place ?


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go crimp crazy ... can someone give me an opinion on these ...
> 
> I stripped about 3mm off each wire end and crimped them so that the rear wings caught the insulation and the front wings caught the wire. For the double crimp, I stripped 6mm off the top wire and positioned it so that the rear wings caught the extra exposed wire. The front wings caught only wire from both pieces.
> 
> No sweat if you say the double crimped wire looks crap as I did it without looking at my pinning guide ... only to realize that 3 of the 4 double crimping wire combs need to be made from all white wire ... while the 4th is a black / white combo.
> 
> Picture info ... top left: double crimp, top right: single crimp, bottom: collective shot (the single strand looks 'short'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ruffhi Have you deliberately crimped the 3rd set of wings down (from the wire end).
> They are not normally crimped.
> That set of wings are a guide to get the pin into the connector and the way you have done yours, they may not fit.
> Have you checked that crimps can be inserted into a connector in and click into place ?
Click to expand...

Good catch! I never even noticed that. Those "wings" are actually to keep the pin from slipping on through the connector. With those wings crimped down the pin will just pull through the other end of the connector.


----------



## Mystriss

I think you're also going a hair too deep in the crimping tool, you've bent down the guiding wings on the pins.

The little wings at the end of the pin barrel here:

 

go on either side of this little guide inside the connector, it helps keep the square female pin aligned to the male pin - basically you want the male pin to go into a square, not a diamond. When the female pin is off "square" then it's more difficult for the male pin to plug in and causes undo stress on both the male and female pin crimps - aka it's both harder to plug in your cable and it weakens the crimping you've done over time/with usage. I had a really hard time getting the lighting inside the connector right for these pictures, sorry:


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Good catch! I never even noticed that. Those "wings" are actually to keep the pin from slipping on through the connector instead of going in only so far. With those wings crimped down the pin will just pull through the other end of the connector.


I've never heard that reason for the female pins before, but it makes sense. Guess I should call the fem ones "catch guides" from now on. The male pins have "catches" on the sides, no guides cause the barrel's big enough to not twist as much.

Who knew those tiny wings were so handy!


----------



## ruffhi

Thx everyone. My pins, wire (16 AWG) and crimper are from MAINFrame Custom.

I'll get my loop out and have a good look at the pins and my crimps.


----------



## ruffhi

Arrr ... 3 wings. And I was crimping the 3rd set. Interestingly, the only crimp that didn't take out the 3rd set of wings was the double crimp.

Here is another attempt (same crimp, different angles) ... looks better to me.

I'm trying to steer away from having to solder ... as I haven't ever done it. I will give it a whirl and post my results







.


----------



## Mystriss

This looks much better to me


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Arrr ... 3 wings. And I was crimping the 3rd set. Interestingly, the only crimp that didn't take out the 3rd set of wings was the double crimp.
> 
> Here is another attempt (same crimp, different angles) ... looks better to me.
> 
> I'm trying to steer away from having to solder ... as I haven't ever done it. I will give it a whirl and post my results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


That looks excellent. Have you done a pull test to make sure the wire won't pull out of the crimp? I had one of MainFrame's crimpers and had to return it because I couldn't get a tight crimp with it, even when using their wire and pins (I love their wire but I hate their pins).


----------



## ruffhi

Thx. I haven't done a 'pull' test. I will get out my nm calibrator so that I apply the correct amount of force.

No I won't ... I'll just give it a yank or two.

REPs all round







.


----------



## fast_fate

New crimps look much better









The rear wings crimp on the wire insulation look a bit high and maybe are giving the optimum bite, but this is more to do the the wing length on the pins I suspect.
BUT hey if the yank test works, let's consider it a win









I have often reverted to "clipping" those wings so the resulting crimp gets a better bite.


----------



## ruffhi

After watching some youtube videos on how to solder ... time to see if I can successfully apply my new 'knowledge'. I stripped about 15mm of insulation off one white wire (wire #1) and stripped about the same out of the middle of a longer piece of white wire (wire #2) .

BTW ... any suggestions re stripping the insulation from the middle of a wire. I cut the insulation with a wire stripper and then picked at one end with some pliers ... trying to remove the middle bit. I ended up grabbing hold of one of the strands of copper and pulled that through the insulation ... similar to how you strip insulation from good Cat6 ethernet wire.

I then twisted the stripped end of wire #1 around the bare part of wire #2 ...










I then heated up the wire and soldered it. My Initial reactions are ...

not too bad

I didn't end up with huge globs of solder

I got the solder too close to all three pieces of insulation ... totally mashmellowing™ one of them

Ok ... have at it







.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> After watching some youtube videos on how to solder ... time to see if I can successfully apply my new 'knowledge'. I stripped about 15mm of insulation off one white wire (wire #1) and stripped about the same out of the middle of a longer piece of white wire (wire #2) .
> 
> BTW ... any suggestions re stripping the insulation from the middle of a wire. I cut the insulation with a wire stripper and then picked at one end with some pliers ... trying to remove the middle bit. I ended up grabbing hold of one of the strands of copper and pulled that through the insulation ... similar to how you strip insulation from good Cat6 ethernet wire.
> 
> I then twisted the stripped end of wire #1 around the bare part of wire #2 ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then heated up the wire and soldered it. My Initial reactions are ...
> 
> not too bad
> 
> I didn't end up with huge globs of solder
> 
> I got the solder too close to all three pieces of insulation ... totally mashmellowing one of them
> 
> Ok ... have at it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Oh, man, that's horrible, atrocious, lousy...just kidding! Actually, that looks much better than what I've seen a lot of pros do. The most important thing you did right was to actually twist the wires together before soldering them (I cringe every time I see a pro just stick the wires together and expect the solder to hold them). The solder itself looks ok but looks like you either used a torch (bad idea since torches usually aren't focused enough or you tried to drag the soldering iron or gun around to get the solder to melt, which can also cause the insulation to "marshmallow" (curious term I've never seen before but I like it; it works). Also, I see a bit of rosin on the surface of the solder itself, suggesting you may not have heated the wire enough which suggests the solder may not have completely penetrated the wire. To fix it, I suggest you just hold a soldering iron or gun to the center of the splice and just wait until all the solder melts; don't move the iron or gun to try to help it along. Then remove the iron or gun and do not move the wire until the solder solidifies to avoid a cold joint (a cold joint will look crystalized).

To avoid burning or excessively melting the insulation in the future, again, just hold the iron against the wire in the center of the spice and wait for the wire to heat up enough to melt the solder. A tiny bit of solder between the iron and the gun will help with heat transfer but the bulk of the solder should be applied by touching it to the wire. The solder will move through the strands of the wire by capillary action and may even go a bit under the insulation. You may melt the insulation a little bit, which is harmless, but you will not get the "marshmallow" (ok, it's official; I love that term!).

Seriously, though, that was a great first attempt at soldering and an excellent job of preparing the splice so you should be proud of yourself.


----------



## ruffhi

Thanks Lady Fitzgerald for the feedback. Here are some more tries.

The one on the left is the original shown above ... attempt #2 is next to it, attempt #3 next to it, etc, etc.

I really like #2 and #5. Number 3 looks ok to me but it is a mess - I think my wire twisting was messy. It is interesting to see that the underlying wire structure has a lot to do with how clean the soldering looks. I guess that is just the same as painting (preparation, preparation, preparation and then paint).

Number 4 has a bunch of rosin ... but only at the ends. I held the gun in the middle for attempts #2 thru #4.










I've just realized that I only have black heat shrink.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thanks Lady Fitzgerald for the feedback. Here are some more tries.
> 
> The one on the left is the original shown above ... attempt #2 is next to it, attempt #3 next to it, etc, etc.
> 
> I really like #2 and #5. Number 3 looks ok to me but it is a mess - I think my wire twisting was messy. It is interesting to see that the underlying wire structure has a lot to do with how clean the soldering looks. I guess that is just the same as painting (preparation, preparation, preparation and then paint).
> 
> Number 4 has a bunch of rosin ... but only at the ends. I held the gun in the middle for attempts #2 thru #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've just realized that I only have black heat shrink.


You're doing pretty good. #5 is definitely the best.. #2 looks good but I would kept the gun on it a little longer and run a bit more solder up toward the end with two wires but that's just me being picky. #3 looks like it might not have the heat on it long enough but it looks like a serviceable joint. #4 looks like it has a bit too much solder but, other than that, it looks just fine.

All of them look fine, even #1 with its marshmallow and ready to put into service once you insulate the joints. When you apply the heat shrink, be sure to apply it at least 3/8" past the ends of the insulation on the end with two wires so it can act as a strain relief to prevent the copper strands from bending where the insulation ends.

You are certainly a quick study!


----------



## Himo5

It would definitely be worth your while to watch one of my favorite videos about 



.

However, soldering a joint along a wire rather than at a connection always carries the risk of cracking the joint open when the wire is being bundled and harnessed. When the joint is close to a place where the wire is going to be stressed, such as the sharp bend required to draw a 24Pin cable from the backplane round onto the motherboard you can't always guarantee that the joint is not going to be damaged in the process.

In these circumstances using a knotted joint is worth considering instead, giving the connection flexibility and strength. If anyone is interested I posted a demo sheet at Post 12793 in this thread last year.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> It would definitely be worth your while to watch one of my favorite videos about
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> However, soldering a joint along a wire rather than at a connection always carries the risk of cracking the joint open when the wire is being bundled and harnessed. When the joint is close to a place where the wire is going to be stressed, such as the sharp bend required to draw a 24Pin cable from the backplane round onto the motherboard you can't always guarantee that the joint is not going to be damaged in the process.
> 
> In these circumstances using a knotted joint is worth considering instead, giving the connection flexibility and strength. If anyone is interested I posted a demo sheet at Post 12793 in this thread last year.


The only problem I see with your flux method is you don't need that much to get a good joint. The flux needs to burn off to avoid possible future corrosion. Even rosin based flux can corrode copper over time. A good rosin core solder will provide all the flux you need for the largest wires you will ever need in computers.

When you did your second method, if you had put the iron in the center of the joint, you would have avoided most, if not all, of the insulation melting.

If the solder is allowed to wick under the insulation, the insulation will act as a strain relief and prevent breaking. Extending heat shrink past where the insulation was stripped will also act as a strain relief. I've never had wire break at a soldered splice or joint.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> It would definitely be worth your while to watch one of my favorite videos about
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> However, soldering a joint along a wire rather than at a connection always carries the risk of cracking the joint open when the wire is being bundled and harnessed. When the joint is close to a place where the wire is going to be stressed, such as the sharp bend required to draw a 24Pin cable from the backplane round onto the motherboard you can't always guarantee that the joint is not going to be damaged in the process.
> 
> In these circumstances using a knotted joint is worth considering instead, giving the connection flexibility and strength. If anyone is interested I posted a demo sheet at Post 12793 in this thread last year.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem I see with your flux method is you don't need that much to get a good joint. *The flux needs to burn off to avoid possible future corrosion*. Even rosin based flux can corrode copper over time. A good rosin core solder will provide all the flux you need for the largest wires you will ever need in computers.
> 
> When you did your second method, if you had put the iron in the center of the joint, you would have avoided most, if not all, of the insulation melting.
> 
> If the solder is allowed to wick under the insulation, the insulation will act as a strain relief and prevent breaking. Extending heat shrink past where the insulation was stripped will also act as a strain relief. I've never had wire break at a soldered splice or joint.
Click to expand...

i would like to stress the part about corrosion.

plumbing solder is VERY corrosive and regardless if you burn it off or not, if oyu use it for electronics, i would HIGHLY suggest washing it! or better yet proper tools for the proper job electronics flux is not that expensive !

( i have several types ) not all are proper for the proper job, some are NO WASH some are not, either way, if you want to solder, do yourself a favor, buy the right solder and flux, it helps sooooo much ! soldering irons are personal preference, i bought mine from @longroadtrip best monies i spent ! i bought 2 other soldering irons for 40 or 50 and the other for like 80 iirc,

that station has been awesome, i am using it more and more and just fell in love with it.

the thing i HATE ( was easily solved ) was the power switches are not labeled and i can never hit the right one ! used my labeler and BAM no problem ! soldered over 50 high speed gts! all are now PWM, currently taking said GTs and redoing the wiring all black and only like 3 inches or so long !

i attempted something like this, with other fluxes.... horrible choice. tbh i swore off soldering,

but as i said right tool right job. once i bought it and the flux and whatnot... wow. soldering is beyond easy

fluxes

i like my flux pen # 951 but i have paste flux solder flux and a few others. ! but if i had to buy one, that is it !

imo the solder should not break .... ever , that is the purpose of soldering !!


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

@Mega Man. You are so correct about plumbing solder. Much of it is acid core and will definitely corrode metal if. Even rosin core can corrode if not burned or other wise cleaned off. Paste flux can range from rosin based to acid based with some of it being pretty nasty stuff. For the size wires used in computers, rosin core solder is plenty. I use paste flux only for cleaning the tip of my iron or gun before retinning it, although right now I'm using a tip cleaner I plunge the tip into that also tins the tip. It works ok.


----------



## Mystriss

I've been using electronics grade solder and almost no flux at all. If I feel like I really have to use it to get a good connection for stranded (like for a splitter) I just barely touch the strand tips into the flux then use my fingers to spread it out a bit - staying well away from the insulation cause the flux just seems to draw the solder into the insulation. I'd been using a rosin core solder, easier to "work" with for sure, but I had so much trouble with my insulation "marshmallowing" that I had a bit of a temper tantrum and threw the stuff at [back to] my husband heh (Ruining the insulation of course completely destroys the bare wire look I'm going for on my build)


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I'd been using a rosin core solder, easier to "work" with for sure, but I had so much trouble with my insulation "marshmallowing" that I had a bit of a temper tantrum


Hee hee ... I have gone back and TM'd my marshmallow comment. Royalties at 0.00001 +REP per use.


----------



## Mystriss

It's a great term.


----------



## Akhenaton

Hi guys, just a question...
I was reading this scheme:



But I don't understand: what would happen if I swapped two cables of the same color (ex: the 1st pin with the 13th or the 4th with the 22nd)? Nothing, right?
Please forgive my ignorance









Thanks


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I'd been using a rosin core solder, easier to "work" with for sure, but I had so much trouble with my insulation "marshmallowing" that I had a bit of a temper tantrum
> 
> 
> 
> Hee hee ... I have gone back and TM'd my marshmallow comment. Royalties at 0.00001 +REP per use.
Click to expand...

Please let us know how that works out for you.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akhenaton*
> 
> Hi guys, just a question...
> I was reading this scheme:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pinout diagram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I don't understand: what would happen if I swapped two cables of the same color (ex: the 1st pin with the 13th or the 4th with the 22nd)? Nothing, right?
> Please forgive my ignorance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


You are right, it makes no difference so long as the wire voltage matches, it does not matter exactly which wire it is.


----------



## Akhenaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> You are right, it makes no difference so long as the wire voltage matches, it does not matter exactly which wire it is.


Thanks!


----------



## ruffhi

My white heat shrink is here ... thx PPCs. I've started the process of making the tail for the 24-pin motherboard cable. I started with the double wires and was 3/4 of the way in when I realized that I had them around the wrong way in the 18-pin connector. What is the trick to getting these suckers out? I got one or two out but the rest were extracted with pliers. I ended up tossing all of them and starting again ... cut, strip, twist, solder, shrink, strip ends and finally, crimp.

The right hand picture looks like the are very thin, tall, leggy(?) people with very short mini-skirts.


----------



## Mega Man

those pins take practice and patience

i have heard it is really difficult if you use a "cheap" tool, i use the mdpc aka the molex tool


----------



## ruffhi

@MegaMan ... thx for the info. I picked up a remover from MAINFrame Custom - the prongs are much longer and, with some additional practice, I was able to remove _most_ (but not all) of the pins.

Anyway, I decided to scrap the soldering and work with the double crimping. I didn't like the inflexibility of my solder ... I think my solders were just too big. I also thought about how to improve my double crimping and decided that I could remove some of the insulation between where the two wires touch (more pics in my Liquorice Allsorts build log).

I put all of the wires into the tail (that was fun ... check, test, check, check, insert until *click*). I tested it with a PSU tester and all the right lights lit up























Here is a picture of one of my double crimps ...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> how did i not know about this !~
> 
> for all who dont know, i love this crimper... it is epic and does "the perfect bite"
> 
> engineer PAD11
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PAD-11-Precision-Crimping-Interchangeable/dp/B00IWD9XT6
> 
> 
> 
> i bought the pad12s ( the #12 jaw) as well but imo it isnt needed !!!
> 
> i never used it on the fat 4 pins ( amp mate n lok ) as i have the AMP crimper
> 
> amp 90124-2-f
> 
> works great with 16ga iirc...
> 
> i have nils crimper. i love it bu tstill prefer the engineer , high quality !!!
> 
> hope this info helps people !!!


the above are awesome for double wires imo much easier then ratcheting tools !


----------



## OffTheChart

yoh, haven't been here in a while

wanted to find: do the Seasonic X series connectors differ from Corsair?

nvm, my initial assumption was correct and confirmed


----------



## Mega Man

repinning is fairly easy, with a DMM


----------



## Chaoz

My mate finished helping me with my sleeving. I'm very happy with the results and the colours


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> My mate finished helping me with my sleeving. I'm very happy with the results and the colours


Looks great







.

I really need to get myself some open cable combs to clean up my cables. I bought a pack from CableMods but unfortunately it wasn't big enough to accommodate the paracord.


----------



## Mega Man

No, really you don't. Looks better without them


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No, really you don't. Looks better without them


I need the combs to straighten and line up the cables in my case as they're really messy







.



^ This is not a good example of great cable management







. The case lights are normally only on 60% and it makes it a bit harder to see the cables whereas this photo is with the lights on 100% to demonstrate the crookedness. It is challenging as there is only enough room behind the motherboard tray of the P180 to fit a single strand of paracord cable!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No, really you don't. Looks better without them


Yep. Still true


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yep. Still true


Well, the last day has been an interesting exploration regarding cable combs







.

I'd always considered the cable combs to be the only way to manage messy cables until you challenged this convention and as a result I happily came across the idea of cable lacing







(not sure why I hadn't noticed it sooner!) .

I think I'll need to try this on one of my extension cables.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Whether one likes cable combs and/or lacing or not is a matter of personal preference. Cable combs are a much easier way to keep cables trained where they need to go but they do interrupt the smooth line of the cable (although some people like that look). Lacing doesn't leave lumps on the cable like combs do but usually still have a visible line showing (using a thread that is the identical color of the sleeving will minimize that somewhat).

There are other ways of keeping cables corralled or trained that look much better, such as using stiffer wire that will hold its shape, spot gluing the individual cables together in the desired shape, etc. Personally, I do not like individually sleeved cables (obviously, I'm in a tiny minority with that opinion) and try to keep my cables as small and out of sight as much as possible.

It all boils down to what you prefer and the amount of time you are willing to spend getting there. It's _your_ computer so don't let others sway _your_ preference.


----------



## Mega Man

absolutely, but most seem to think cable combs are only way and new fad. i will influence as much as i can

also cable sewing



you can also train your cabling

combs ruin builds imo...... horrible


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Cable sewing can give a fantastic look but god it takes a long time to do, 6 & 8 pin PCI cable took me 5 hours







.

I personally prefer to hide everything I can and leave the cables how they are. I'm thinking of maybe 3D printing some cable combs next time I rebuild just to see how hidden I can make them.


----------



## rathborne

A 3D printer would be an amazing to have available







. So many things you could build and print. You could invent your way out of almost any problem







.


----------



## Himo5

If you want to try internally sewn cables I posted an example using 0.3mm nylon beading wire in November, 2014. A little further along I also posted this guide for it in the same thread.

At the time - for lack of a better idea - I tried doing the Z-stitching the long way round, which took hours and was nearly impossible to complete, but I've since found that if the X-Y stitching is measured exactly for it the two layers can be put together and sewn in place using only a few Z-stitches. This makes it possible to complete even the most complicated cables, such as a long double bend EPS cable very quickly.

This layout has been jazzed up with all the workings accumulated from fitting Seasonic KM3 cable sets in the Nzxt Lexa-S case but the wires were laid out and sewn in less than two hours.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> absolutely, but most seem to think cable combs are only way and new fad. i will influence as much as i can
> 
> also cable sewing
> 
> you can also train your cabling
> 
> combs ruin builds imo...... horrible


IMO combs are better than stitched cables. Switched cables always look unnatural. In a perfect world you would use neither. But I'd definitely rather see combs than stitching.


----------



## ruffhi

Sounds like a throw down is coming ... combs v stitching v commando


----------



## Mega Man

Nah. No showdown.

Just look at http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/.

How many combs do you see


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Again, it's a matter of personal taste. No one method is the _right_ one.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Nah. No showdown.
> 
> Just look at http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/.
> 
> How many combs do you see


None of them use stitching either.


----------



## pez

You could go the route of using it long enough to train the cables and then remove it. If you're really dedicated, you can get the cable most of the way there without it actually being in the case...at least for most bends.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> You could go the route of using it long enough to train the cables and then remove it. If you're really dedicated, you can get the cable most of the way there without it actually being in the case...at least for most bends.


Assuming the sleeving is tight over the wire you are right. I've used combs in my build to assist w/ training but removed them all afterward.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Assuming the sleeving is tight over the wire you are right. I've used combs in my build to assist w/ training but removed them all afterward.


Yep! When I did my SATA cables, I did somewhat of a pre-layout of how it was going to run and trained the cable most of the way before putting it into my PC. It's a cable no one will ever see, but oh well







.


----------



## Deedaz

Got a new project to work on.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Got a new project to work on.


Good colors and choice power supply. Nice!


----------



## ruffhi

I have a question for you ... my color scheme is based on the liquorice allsorts sweet.


Spoiler: liquorice allsorts picture















The main build is black and white with color accents. Now ... the question ... which sleeving color scheme should I use for the 24-pin extension. The green is fairly fluro but doesn't appear to want appear correctly. I could use pink / black / yellow / black / orange too.

Also ... should I use black or white connectors to plug into my motherboard?


----------



## Chopper1591

Good day all.

I am going to try my first sleeving ever.
Have watched numerous Youtube movies about it so I think I know the basics.









Can someone fill me in on how to sleeve front panel cables (audio, i/o, usb)? Like in, do I sleeve every cable separately or in pairs or what?
I am not sure what will look better.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Good day all.
> 
> I am going to try my first sleeving ever.
> Have watched numerous Youtube movies about it so I think I know the basics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can someone fill me in on how to sleeve front panel cables (audio, i/o, usb)? Like in, do I sleeve every cable separately or in pairs or what?
> I am not sure what will look better.


My personal opinion (and there will be other, perfectly good but different opinions) is all of the front panel cables should be corralled into one sleeve until they reach the MOBO, then spit off into individual cables, each cable getting it's own sleeve.

In this photo, the big fat cable running vertically near the middle (it's fat because I had to flatten it so I could get the case side panel on) is the sleeve all the front panel cables run through.



In this one, the front panel cables are going to different locations so two cables got their own sleeve and the rest were corralled in a single sleeve until they reach the MOBO, then each cable gets its own sleeve.



You will have to decide what will be easier and look best in your situation since no two situations are the same.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> My personal opinion (and there will be other, perfectly good but different opinions) is all of the front panel cables should be corralled into one sleeve until they reach the MOBO, then spit off into individual cables, each cable getting it's own sleeve.
> 
> In this photo, the big fat cable running vertically near the middle (it's fat because I had to flatten it so I could get the case side panel on) is the sleeve all the front panel cables run through.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this one, the front panel cables are going to different locations so two cables got their own sleeve and the rest were corralled in a single sleeve until they reach the MOBO, then each cable gets its own sleeve.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will have to decide what will be easier and look best in your situation since no two situations are the same.


Interesting. Thanks for sharing.
Hadn't thought about bundling all the cables in a single sleeve. Makes things cleaner for sure (although I can't see them behind the mobo tray).
I already ordered the sleeving and don't have enough to do your thing (big sleeve on all wires).

The second picture isn't very clear to me (I thought I made bad pictures with my phone







). Are those the i/o cables (led and power/reset switches)?
I was actually deciding if I want to bundle the wires from a single connector (power led for example) or sleeve every wire single.
Basically I am deciding between these three ways of sleeving (don't mind the quality on them, I just did a quick search to find examples).

Individual:

Pair:

Bundle:


*FYI*
The sleeve I bought is MDPC-X Sleeve Small (~1.7mm to ~7.8mm).
I only have 6 meters so option 2 would probably be the best.


----------



## kgtuning

I think the second works well. I use this method most often with smaller gauge wires like fans and pwr,reset. and once i go up to my ATX power cables I switch to individual sleeving. just imo though.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

In my second photo, the cable on the left is a USB 3.0 cable coming from the USB 3.0 ports on the front I/O panel and will go to a USB 3.0 header on the right side of the MOBO. The cable on the right is coming from the audio ports on the front I/O panel and will go directly to the sound card. The remaining cables from the front I/O panel-USB 2.0, power switch, reset switch, power switch LED, HDD activity LED-have been bundled in a single sleeve and will go to the lower right side of the bottom of the MOBO where they then split up into individually sleeved cables (not individual wires).

Again, the choice has to be yours since everyone's situation is different. I just provided you a couple of examples of one option which may or (mostly likely, it seems) may not work for you.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> I think the second works well. I use this method most often with smaller gauge wires like fans and pwr,reset. and once i go up to my ATX power cables I switch to individual sleeving. just imo though.


I lean towards that method to.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> In my second photo, the cable on the left is a USB 3.0 cable coming from the USB 3.0 ports on the front I/O panel and will go to a USB 3.0 header on the right side of the MOBO. The cable on the right is coming from the audio ports on the front I/O panel and will go directly to the sound card. The remaining cables from the front I/O panel-USB 2.0, power switch, reset switch, power switch LED, HDD activity LED-have been bundled in a single sleeve and will go to the lower right side of the bottom of the MOBO where they then split up into individually sleeved cables (not individual wires).
> 
> Again, the choice has to be yours since everyone's situation is different. I just provided you a couple of examples of one option which may or (mostly likely, it seems) may not work for you.


And I appreciate that.

Will have to see with what I end up.
After if done it I will share pictures here.


----------



## ruffhi

24-pin extension cable finished. I want to thank everyone in this thread for this thread. I've been through it a number of times look at various things. Today I was working on my 24-pin power extension cable. I managed to watch about 8 episodes of House MD while I was working on the 24 wires. Slow ... but I think it turned out really well.

Best of all, it light up all the lights it needed to light up on the PSU tester







.

More pics in my thread.


----------



## rathborne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Today I was working on my 24-pin power extension cable. I managed to watch about 8 episodes of House MD while I was working on the 24 wires..


Well done! Took me most of a weekend to get through the 24pin and 8pin cables! Lots of late-90s-2000s movies then Luther was watched over the two days







.

Sleeving is such a time consuming activity for me that requires me to have no one else around to distract me - otherwise I break depinning tools, slice fingers or make other mistakes.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Today I was working on my 24-pin power extension cable. I managed to watch about 8 episodes of House MD while I was working on the 24 wires..
> 
> 
> 
> Well done! Took me most of a weekend to get through the 24pin and 8pin cables! Lots of late-90s-2000s movies then Luther was watched over the two days
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Sleeving is such a time consuming activity for me that requires me to have no one else around to distract me - *otherwise I break depinning tools, slice fingers or make other mistakes.*
Click to expand...

I do that without distractions! lol

Hopefully this next set of cables will go smoother, I ordered some pre cut/stripped wire from mainframe. I guess they don't offer the pre crimped wires anymore or I would have gone with that and saved myself a bunch of time. I ordered 12" wires for my 24 pin, working in a caselabs s8. The spacing seems a bit tight and I was wondering if anybody had used 12" wire for an s8 build? I don't have a board I can test fit with and would hate to get the whole cable sleeved just to realize I need another inch or two on the cable.


----------



## Akhenaton

Hi guys, is there a way to sleeve this type of splitted cables without recrimp?


----------



## Himo5

The Lutro0 Molex Sleeve Guide video shows you how to do this in heatshrinked mode and can easily be modified for the more popular heatshrinkless style. All the Lutro0 videos are available at the start of this thread in the Cables and Sleeving forum, though it can sometimes take a long time to load.


----------



## Amr0d

I recently got my hands on a Ncase M1 and got all supplies for cable sleeving here but I am not sure if I can do it. I read about different "pin layouts" for every PSU and since I don't want to break anything I would like to know if there is a video or tutorial for dummies. I can handle the sleeving and crimping and everything but when it comes to puzzle solving aka putting the pin in the right hole I feel like I am stupid. Is there a way to make me understand how I can make the right cables for my Corsair SF600?


----------



## Akhenaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> The Lutro0 Molex Sleeve Guide video shows you how to do this in heatshrinked mode and can easily be modified for the more popular heatshrinkless style. All the Lutro0 videos are available at the start of this thread in the Cables and Sleeving forum, though it can sometimes take a long time to load.


Unfortunately I cannot use that method, he has 2 connectors, so he can easily insert the sleeve, I have 3/4 connectors instead :/


----------



## Himo5

Oops! I didn't notice that.

Here's a way I think you can do it. This is using Molex connectors but as long as you are using 4mm sleeving, like Telios it should work Ok - if a little tighter - with Sata connectors.

Unfortunately, I can't see how it could be done in heatshrinkless style, but I think this would make the Lutro0 heatshrinked method work in your case.

When you are putting the masking tape on make sure two sticky sides of the tape don't stick together anywhere and make it a nightmare to undo!


----------



## adjago

*24 power*
Quote:


>


----------



## Akhenaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Oops! I didn't notice that.
> 
> Here's a way I think you can do it. This is using Molex connectors but as long as you are using 4mm sleeving, like Telios it should work Ok - if a little tighter - with Sata connectors.
> 
> Unfortunately, I can't see how it could be done in heatshrinkless style, but I think this would make the Lutro0 heatshrinked method work in your case.
> 
> When you are putting the masking tape on make sure two sticky sides of the tape don't stick together anywhere and make it a nightmare to undo!


Thanks! I'll try it


----------



## ekg84

Just finished REsleeving this guy, replacing paracord heatshrinkless sleeving with techflex clean cut. Man, such a pain in the butt...
At least it looks decent now.


----------



## Deedaz

I got half my 24 pin finished. Went with this pattern so I could keep the double wires in white sleeving and it also keeps white the primary color. I really like this heatshrinkless method but my finger tips hate it











double wires



The camera really messes with the color. The purple is actually closer to the lower wires than the top.

Hopefully I can get the rest of the build going soon.


----------



## rathborne

@Deedaz, I found taping your thumb and index finger in a decent layer of masking tape massively helped protect the fingers from slicing when removing the pins and burning when compressing the melted paracord ends







.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> @Deedaz, I found taping your thumb and index finger in a decent layer of masking tape massively helped protect the fingers from slicing when removing the pins and burning when compressing the melted paracord ends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yeah I figured out that if you keep the flame away from the pin it helps a lot too









I got the cable finished up, here's a quick pic of it in the S8


----------



## Himo5

A quick callous maker for a 2-3 day sleeve pulling job is a smear of SuperGlue but you need it just where the callous was going to be.


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathborne*
> 
> @Deedaz, I found taping your thumb and index finger in a decent layer of masking tape massively helped protect the fingers from slicing when removing the pins and burning when compressing the melted paracord ends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I wet my fingertips in my tongue before compressing the melted sleeve


----------



## pez

Just the tip(s)?


----------



## rathborne

@pez, lol! I think the next time I sleeve cables I should be doing it in a tactical turtleneck... the Tactleneck







.


----------



## Vf2ss

I just wanted to share some pics of my first time sleeving that I've recently completed. Owe a big thanks to Lutroo and the community for providing information and guides for doing this.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Just the tip(s)?


Yeah, I can't bend far enough yet I just reach the tip
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vf2ss*
> 
> I just wanted to share some pics of my first time sleeving that I've recently completed. Owe a big thanks to Lutroo and the community for providing information and guides for doing this.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Congrats! I don't wanna be a bich though but i HIGHLY recommend heatshinkless method. Trust me it's EASIER. Any tiny variations will end up hidden inside the connector, instead of showing off in the end of the cable because you have to worry BOTH about the sleeve length (which shows through the heatshrink) and the heatshrink length has to be perfect too.

My original extensions were done with HS and it's a pain in the arse... HS-less is easier and looks better too!


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Congrats! I don't wanna be a bich though but i HIGHLY recommend heatshinkless method. Trust me it's EASIER


Totally agree. I went that way to for my first extension and I am very thankful that I didn't have to worry about trying to line up the heat shrink. Be prepared for saw fingers from pushing the sleeving and blackened tips from squeezing the heated heat shrink ... but ... it will turn out nice!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## OffTheChart

have been busy with some orange and black MDPC extensions and must say, the orange is disappointing me.

not sure if it because of how it was stored or what, but instead of being round, it's basically like it was pressed down.

stretching doesn't seem to do the job and one can only stretch it so much anyway.

now putting the orange wires through combs, at the entrance and exit points you can see it 'bulge' more than black.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pozwv0HYj



Decided to switch out my Pexon cables as they don't really match anything in my build anymore, these should go with anything really.

They should look nice with nickel tubing.


----------



## ruffhi

Who needs sleeving when you have wire like that









What type of wire is that?


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Who needs sleeving when you have wire like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What type of wire is that?


http://www.moddiy.com/products/FEP-Teflon-Silver-Plated-Copper-Wire-(Cu%7B47%7DAg-24AWG).html?setCurrencyId=6&gclid=CI_T48reic4CFUWNGwodiTQBGQ

Yeah, It's nice and flexible and doesn't take up much room since it has no sleeving.


----------



## baalbelphegor

I have the 1000W P2 EVGA Supernova and I would like to sleeve the MOBO, CPU, and GPU's especially since they're red (ugh). The reason I didn't do extensions is because just the GPU's are red and the rest of my build is black and white.

However the cable provided is an 8pin to dual 6+2 pin and I would prefer to have 6pin to 6pin since my GPU's take two 6 pins (I would use 4 of these cables). I guess I have to at least use an 8pin on the PSU so my question is how do I know which pins to slot? I've seen a picture of an 8 pin with 6 wires in this thread but my 8pin is full due to the dual 6+2pins. I've also looked through my power supply documentation to see if they had the pin layouts but I didn't find anything.


Spoiler: The cables


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baalbelphegor*
> 
> I have the 1000W P2 EVGA Supernova and I would like to sleeve the MOBO, CPU, and GPU's especially since they're red (ugh). The reason I didn't do extensions is because just the GPU's are red and the rest of my build is black and white.
> 
> However the cable provided is an 8pin to dual 6+2 pin and I would prefer to have 6pin to 6pin since my GPU's take two 6 pins (I would use 4 of these cables). I guess I have to at least use an 8pin on the PSU so my question is how do I know which pins to slot? I've seen a picture of an 8 pin with 6 wires in this thread but my 8pin is full due to the dual 6+2pins. I've also looked through my power supply documentation to see if they had the pin layouts but I didn't find anything.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: The cables


Unless you can find a RELIABLE reference for the pinout (there are several on OCN; I don't know if your particular PSU is included, but I think the odds are good because it's reasonably popular), you have to remove the existing sleeving from the cable, and, making a good note of the pinout you can now observe, either re-sleeve in your choice of color and material (mediocre choice), or replace each wire, one by one, with new ones to your desired length.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baalbelphegor*
> 
> I have the 1000W P2 EVGA Supernova and I would like to sleeve the MOBO, CPU, and GPU's especially since they're red (ugh). The reason I didn't do extensions is because just the GPU's are red and the rest of my build is black and white.
> 
> However the cable provided is an 8pin to dual 6+2 pin and I would prefer to have 6pin to 6pin since my GPU's take two 6 pins (I would use 4 of these cables). I guess I have to at least use an 8pin on the PSU so my question is how do I know which pins to slot? I've seen a picture of an 8 pin with 6 wires in this thread but my 8pin is full due to the dual 6+2pins. I've also looked through my power supply documentation to see if they had the pin layouts but I didn't find anything.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: The cables


I haven't used a 1000w evga but on my 850's the +2 wires are double wires and can be cut off if you don't need it.


----------



## baalbelphegor

So I've checked OC for some pinouts and luckily there is one for the 1000w P2. After reading for a while as far as I can tell it looks like my power supply follows the atx standard for the 24 pin.

This means I won't have to criss-cross wires, correct?


Spoiler: ATX standard









Spoiler: EVGA 1000 p2







I was thinking I would just have to buy an 8 pin and leave out two wires since it's going to just a 6 pin but then again, I could just use an 8 pin that goes to 6+2 and let the +2 hang out behind the motherboard tray


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baalbelphegor*
> 
> So I've checked OC for some pinouts and luckily there is one for the 1000w P2. After reading for a while as far as I can tell it looks like my power supply follows the atx standard for the 24 pin.
> 
> This means I won't have to criss-cross wires, correct?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: ATX standard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: EVGA 1000 p2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking I would just have to buy an 8 pin and leave out two wires since it's going to just a 6 pin but then again, I could just use an 8 pin that goes to 6+2 and let the +2 hang out behind the motherboard tray


actually youre fine with either one you follow as it seems. So far I have successfully used 3 different layouts with mine, the one that came with my PSU was like nothing I have seen so far on the forum then there was one that I copied and used. then there is yet another one that my EVGA sleeved cables came with that is currently working flawlessly.

Other than the capasitors needing to be in the same spot (if you have 1000w or less you don't really need them), you can really just go with any layout as you want. I'm currently resleeving my cables to get them correctly and I forgot to mark up the correct one again so I will probabyl copy one from the forum for the cap placing and use the one that the EVGA cables has.


----------



## baalbelphegor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> actually youre fine with either one you follow as it seems. So far I have successfully used 3 different layouts with mine, the one that came with my PSU was like nothing I have seen so far on the forum then there was one that I copied and used. then there is yet another one that my EVGA sleeved cables came with that is currently working flawlessly.
> 
> Other than the capasitors needing to be in the same spot (if you have 1000w or less you don't really need them), you can really just go with any layout as you want. I'm currently resleeving my cables to get them correctly and I forgot to mark up the correct one again so I will probabyl copy one from the forum for the cap placing and use the one that the EVGA cables has.


Thanks that really helped a lot, I really appreciate it!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baalbelphegor*
> 
> Thanks that really helped a lot, I really appreciate it!


I wouldn't go completely off book and say all 12v are equal and the likes though (even though that probably would work), but at the very least most pinouts that are for the G2/P2/T2 seem to be working on all of the same unit at least. Either way it's easy to get them to look good even if you have to cross wires, you just have to make sure to do all the crossing near the PSU and it won't be noticed in the build. The most important thing to keep consistent on these is the wire gauge and the caps. Youre fine using thick wires where a thin one was intended but not the other way around.


----------



## Himo5

It may not be electrically necessary - I've never seen a definitive answer to the question of whether thinner wires in a cable is just a matter of cost or whether some kind of monitoring is going on - but if I'm going to change the wire gauges I like to keep the thickness differences, so I'll change a 24pin cable with 18g and 22g wires to one with 16g and 20g wires. Where it affects the appearance of the cable I have a big coil of 2.4mm 2/1 transparent heatshrink which can go over a thinner wire (with the help of some soapy water) and remove the inconsistency.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> It may not be electrically necessary - I've never seen a definitive answer to the question of whether thinner wires in a cable is just a matter of cost or whether some kind of monitoring is going on - but if I'm going to change the wire gauges I like to keep the thickness differences, so I'll change a 24pin cable with 18g and 22g wires to one with 16g and 20g wires. Where it affects the appearance of the cable I have a big coil of 2.4mm 2/1 transparent heatshrink which can go over a thinner wire (with the help of some soapy water) and remove the inconsistency.


True, but I don't see a real reason why a thicker wire can't be used for the same as a thin one. Personally I just think it's a matter of practicality as thinner wires makes for less cable clutter and a more flexible cable. There is also the cost aspect that you mentioned which is insignificant per unit, but quite significant on 100k units. At any rate I doubt there will be much of a power draw from 22g wires to start with, but I don't see any reason why a 16g wire can't be used as a substitute unless there is something I'm missing. Other than the double crimped wires ofcourse, those would be a real hazzle to do with two 16g wires instead of the 16g and 22g that is used now.


----------



## kgtuning

I have a Corsair Ax1200i that I've used 16 gauge on for years without issue. I think they use 22 gauge wires on pins that dont require hardly any current but using a heavier gauge won't affect anything.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> It may not be electrically necessary - I've never seen a definitive answer to the question of whether thinner wires in a cable is just a matter of cost or whether some kind of monitoring is going on - but if I'm going to change the wire gauges I like to keep the thickness differences, so I'll change a 24pin cable with 18g and 22g wires to one with 16g and 20g wires. Where it affects the appearance of the cable I have a big coil of 2.4mm 2/1 transparent heatshrink which can go over a thinner wire (with the help of some soapy water) and remove the inconsistency.


Caps DO NOT need to be kept but it does make voltage reg worse (not horrible) i should also note that the leadex that these are based from DO NOT have caps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *baalbelphegor*
> 
> I have the 1000W P2 EVGA Supernova and I would like to sleeve the MOBO, CPU, and GPU's especially since they're red (ugh). The reason I didn't do extensions is because just the GPU's are red and the rest of my build is black and white.
> 
> However the cable provided is an 8pin to dual 6+2 pin and I would prefer to have 6pin to 6pin since my GPU's take two 6 pins (I would use 4 of these cables). I guess I have to at least use an 8pin on the PSU so my question is how do I know which pins to slot? I've seen a picture of an 8 pin with 6 wires in this thread but my 8pin is full due to the dual 6+2pins. I've also looked through my power supply documentation to see if they had the pin layouts but I didn't find anything.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: The cables
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you can find a RELIABLE reference for the pinout (there are several on OCN; I don't know if your particular PSU is included, but I think the odds are good because it's reasonably popular), you have to remove the existing sleeving from the cable, and, making a good note of the pinout you can now observe, either re-sleeve in your choice of color and material (mediocre choice), or replace each wire, one by one, with new ones to your desired length.
Click to expand...

I know he found a pin out. You forgot a digital multi meter however
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *baalbelphegor*
> 
> Thanks that really helped a lot, I really appreciate it!
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't go completely off book and say all 12v are equal and the likes though (even though that probably would work), but at the very least most pinouts that are for the G2/P2/T2 seem to be working on all of the same unit at least. Either way it's easy to get them to look good even if you have to cross wires, you just have to make sure to do all the crossing near the PSU and it won't be noticed in the build. The most important thing to keep consistent on these is the wire gauge and the caps. Youre fine using thick wires where a thin one was intended but not the other way around.
Click to expand...

Assuming single rail psu you are correct. 5v to 5v 3.3 to 3.3 and 12 to 12.
Grounds are all the same ground


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Caps DO NOT need to be kept but it does make voltage reg worse (not horrible) i should also note that the leadex that these are based from DO NOT have caps
> I know he found a pin out. You forgot a digital multi meter however
> Assuming single rail psu you are correct. 5v to 5v 3.3 to 3.3 and 12 to 12.
> Grounds are all the same ground


Well, there you go. 12v to 12v, 5v to 5v and 3.3v to 3.3v. Makes it a hell of a lot easier than following the pinout from EVGA.


----------



## geort45

Hey everyone

I'm sleeving my Corsair RM1000. I don't have money to make a new order somewhere and get the 14 and 10 pin connectors so I'm using some already sleeved female-female wires I did a while ago and replacing one wire at a time.

I haven't done full cable replacements (female to female) before for the 24 pin cable, I usually do EXTENSIONS (male to female) so all the wires go straight. I had done full cable replacements on PCIE and CPU connectos but there pin order don't matter since one row is 12V and the other is ground so they can go straight too. How da hell do you make the 24 pin cable go straight?! There are two options only it seems, either they go one row into the other or cross side-to-side in order to preserve the pin order, they only go straight when done as extensions...

How do you make them look good? damn...


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Hey everyone
> 
> I'm sleeving my Corsair RM1000. I don't have money to make a new order somewhere and get the 14 and 10 pin connectors so I'm using some already sleeved female-female wires I did a while ago and replacing one wire at a time.
> 
> I haven't done full cable replacements (female to female) before for the 24 pin cable, I usually do EXTENSIONS (male to female) so all the wires go straight. I had done full cable replacements on PCIE and CPU connectos but there pin order don't matter since one row is 12V and the other is ground so they can go straight too. How da hell do you make the 24 pin cable go straight?! There are two options only it seems, either they go one row into the other or cross side-to-side in order to preserve the pin order, they only go straight when done as extensions...
> 
> How do you make them look good? damn...


You just don't make them go straight, the best option would probably be to do cable sowing or cable combs on the PSU end of things so that you can keep all the crossed wires tucked away as much as possible. Other than that there really isn't much to do, just find the best options available to hide the crossed wires and make sure they go straight where they will be visible.


----------



## baalbelphegor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *baalbelphegor*
> 
> So I've checked OC for some pinouts and luckily there is one for the 1000w P2. After reading for a while as far as I can tell it looks like my power supply follows the atx standard for the 24 pin.
> 
> This means I won't have to criss-cross wires, correct?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: ATX standard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: EVGA 1000 p2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking I would just have to buy an 8 pin and leave out two wires since it's going to just a 6 pin but then again, I could just use an 8 pin that goes to 6+2 and let the +2 hang out behind the motherboard tray
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> actually youre fine with either one you follow as it seems. So far I have successfully used 3 different layouts with mine, the one that came with my PSU was like nothing I have seen so far on the forum then there was one that I copied and used. then there is yet another one that my EVGA sleeved cables came with that is currently working flawlessly.
> 
> Other than the capasitors needing to be in the same spot (if you have 1000w or less you don't really need them), you can really just go with any layout as you want. I'm currently resleeving my cables to get them correctly and I forgot to mark up the correct one again so I will probabyl copy one from the forum for the cap placing and use the one that the EVGA cables has.
Click to expand...

You answered my previous question but I wanted to make sure that according to the pictures I provided, I wouldn't have to cross wires for the 24pin, right?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Hey everyone
> 
> I'm sleeving my Corsair RM1000. I don't have money to make a new order somewhere and get the 14 and 10 pin connectors so I'm using some already sleeved female-female wires I did a while ago and replacing one wire at a time.
> 
> I haven't done full cable replacements (female to female) before for the 24 pin cable, I usually do EXTENSIONS (male to female) so all the wires go straight. I had done full cable replacements on PCIE and CPU connectos but there pin order don't matter since one row is 12V and the other is ground so they can go straight too. How da hell do you make the 24 pin cable go straight?! There are two options only it seems, either they go one row into the other or cross side-to-side in order to preserve the pin order, they only go straight when done as extensions...
> 
> How do you make them look good? damn...
> 
> 
> 
> You just don't make them go straight, the best option would probably be to do cable sowing or cable combs on the PSU end of things so that you can keep all the crossed wires tucked away as much as possible. Other than that there really isn't much to do, just find the best options available to hide the crossed wires and make sure they go straight where they will be visible.
Click to expand...

He ment straight from one pin to another. Some psus (most actually) have more then one wore per pin on several pins.

Usually you can't help this. But the way to make it look ok is to do it. (I know helpful right? There are several guides. Are you doing heatshrinkless?


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Hey everyone
> 
> I'm sleeving my Corsair RM1000. I don't have money to make a new order somewhere and get the 14 and 10 pin connectors so I'm using some already sleeved female-female wires I did a while ago and replacing one wire at a time.
> 
> I haven't done full cable replacements (female to female) before for the 24 pin cable, I usually do EXTENSIONS (male to female) so all the wires go straight. I had done full cable replacements on PCIE and CPU connectos but there pin order don't matter since one row is 12V and the other is ground so they can go straight too. How da hell do you make the 24 pin cable go straight?! There are two options only it seems, either they go one row into the other or cross side-to-side in order to preserve the pin order, they only go straight when done as extensions...
> 
> How do you make them look good? damn...
> 
> 
> 
> You just don't make them go straight, the best option would probably be to do cable sowing or cable combs on the PSU end of things so that you can keep all the crossed wires tucked away as much as possible. Other than that there really isn't much to do, just find the best options available to hide the crossed wires and make sure they go straight where they will be visible.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> He ment straight from one pin to another. Some psus (most actually) have more then one wore per pin on several pins.
> 
> Usually you can't help this. But the way to make it look ok is to do it. (I know helpful right? There are several guides. Are you doing heatshrinkless?
Click to expand...

me? yea hs-less. I'll cross one row into the other and make that cross be hidden where the cable goes through a drive bay


----------



## P?P?!

Thought id share some pics of my sleeving project in progress. Im going with heatshrinkless setup and will post an update ive got one more 8 pin to go!


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P?P?!*
> 
> Thought id share some pics of my sleeving project in progress. Im going with heatshrinkless setup and will post an update ive got one more 8 pin to go!


looks good. I like the color pattern.


----------



## chemikl

Hi!

I´m kinda lost here. Could i ask whats your thoughts about this wire?

It´s 1.5mm section and rated 450/750v and 2300W 10A. I think its between 16awg and 14awg. Tried to make some extensions for 4 pin molex, working and crimps well.

Do you think its safe for a corsair ax1200i?

Thank you so much!


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chemikl*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> I´m kinda lost here. Could i ask whats your thoughts about this wire?
> 
> It´s 1.5mm section and rated 450/750v and 2300W 10A. I think its between 16awg and 14awg. Tried to make some extensions for 4 pin molex, working and crimps well.
> 
> Do you think its safe for a corsair ax1200i?
> 
> Thank you so much!


common wire is 16AWG so I guess yes


----------



## ruffhi

Wire AWG is one aspect. Another is the thickness of the covering. If it is too thick it might be hard to crimp and sleeve.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chemikl*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> I´m kinda lost here. Could i ask whats your thoughts about this wire?
> 
> It´s 1.5mm section and rated 450/750v and 2300W 10A. I think its between 16awg and 14awg. Tried to make some extensions for 4 pin molex, working and crimps well.
> 
> Do you think its safe for a corsair ax1200i?
> 
> Thank you so much!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The factory wires on an AX1200i are 18 and 20 gauge I believe.. I replaced all of mine with 16 gauge. Just make sure its not solid core wire and like ruffhi said, the insulation isn't too thick.

16 gauge works nicely with mdpc sleeving imo... heres mine.


----------



## chemikl

Thank you for your answer *geort45*, *ruffhi* and *kgtuning*.

My concern its about the 450/750V 10A thing. It isnt a bit too low for a 1200W PSU? Should i get a higher voltaje able wire?

I have look in a couple sleeving online shops and in one of them sells a 18 awg wire with 1000V 4.5 A at 70ºC. Im a Little confused here.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chemikl*
> 
> Thank you for your answer *geort45*, *ruffhi* and *kgtuning*.
> 
> My concern its about the 450/750V 10A thing. It isnt a bit too low for a 1200W PSU? Should i get a higher voltaje able wire?
> 
> I have look in a couple sleeving online shops and in one of them sells a 18 awg wire with 1000V 4.5 A at 70ºC. Im a Little confused here.


Im on mobile so please excuse the short reply...
What is our normal voltages? 12,5,3.3 so i wouldn't worry about those high numbers. Current as far as Im concerned is the important part. I think your good with that wire.


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chemikl*
> 
> Thank you for your answer *geort45*, *ruffhi* and *kgtuning*.
> 
> My concern its about the 450/750V 10A thing. It isnt a bit too low for a 1200W PSU? Should i get a higher voltaje able wire?
> 
> I have look in a couple sleeving online shops and in one of them sells a 18 awg wire with 1000V 4.5 A at 70ºC. Im a Little confused here.


450-750V @10A on a single wire looks extremely high. I looked up your cable, that thing ain't a single multistranded WIRE but a CABLE made up of multiple wires.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> 450-750V @10A on a single wire looks extremely high. I looked up your cable, that thing ain't a single multistranded WIRE but a CABLE made up of multiple wires.


we must be looking at different wires because i looked his wire up too and its a wire not cable. A wire with a cross section of 1.5mm.. 10 amps is high but do they mean chassis wiring or power transmission?


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> we must be looking at different wires because i looked his wire up too and its a wire not cable. A wire with a cross section of 1.5mm.. 10 amps is high but do they mean chassis wiring or power transmission?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chemikl*
> 
> Thank you for your answer *geort45*, *ruffhi* and *kgtuning*.
> 
> My concern its about the 450/750V 10A thing. It isnt a bit too low for a 1200W PSU? Should i get a higher voltaje able wire?
> 
> I have look in a couple sleeving online shops and in one of them sells a 18 awg wire with 1000V 4.5 A at 70ºC. Im a Little confused here.


I think I'm stupid, normal cables for PSU are 18AWG not 16, BTW. Cross section for 18AWG is ~.82mm2 which is HALF of that cable you got.

And yeah I was looking at a cable with almost identical code H07Z1-K (RQ)... I don't see the 10A rating though. I don't imagine thousands of watts through that single wire, I don't think the 450-750V means that the 10A are at those voltages, there's a limit of watts that can be used on a single wire before it gets red hot.

Anyway, 16AWG is perfectly fine regarding of being able to read the specs. Normal PSUs use 18AWG, the included cables on your PSU are probably that or MAYBE a little higher at 16AWG, which means you're OK to use a same gauge cable. The 1200W are meant to be the TOTAL power draw, it doesn't mean a single wire should be able to handle that. A 6-pin power connector is rated for 75W I think and the 8pin at 150W, for example. Your best bet is to check the gauge of your included cables, it could be either the same as your new cables or if it's thinner it's surely 18AWG

But anyway, your 16AWG cable IS PERFECTLY FINE as long as your crimps fit around it, I think some have shorter wings which would pose a problem. Double check that the wings bite very good into the material otherwise you'll have a PITA when trying to pull out wires and you end up with the crimp pin stuck inside the connector


----------



## chemikl

I should have posted a link to the product at least. Sorry its in Spanish.

http://www.leroymerlin.es/fp/340701_azul1z11.5mm2/340701-azul-1.5mm2-lexman-azul-1.5mm2?pathFamilaFicha=340701&uniSelect=undefined&longitud=undefined&ancho=undefined

This is the cable


A Crimp


And a Extension unsleeved


Thank you all


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chemikl*
> 
> I should have posted a link to the product at least. Sorry its in Spanish.
> 
> http://www.leroymerlin.es/fp/340701_azul1z11.5mm2/340701-azul-1.5mm2-lexman-azul-1.5mm2?pathFamilaFicha=340701&uniSelect=undefined&longitud=undefined&ancho=undefined
> 
> This is the wire
> 
> 
> A Crimp
> 
> 
> And a Extension unsleeved
> 
> 
> Thank you all


The crimp is biting ok into the copper but I see it barely hugs the plastic. IDEALLY it should bite on that too, or you could get stuck pins if pulling the wire. The wings biting into the plastic not only provide grip by the bite itself but the fact that AFTER the bite comes a little more plastic and then the copper, that plastic bump is a physical stop proviging even more pulling force.

I just noticed that it's a MOLEX connector! If that big crimp can BARELY hug the plastic, I doubt a standard ATX crimp will even get around it!


----------



## chemikl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> The crimp is biting ok into the copper but I see it barely hugs the plastic. IDEALLY it should bite on that too, or you could get stuck pins if pulling the wire. The wings biting into the plastic not only provide grip by the bite itself but the fact that AFTER the bite comes a little more plastic and then the copper, that plastic bump is a physical stop proviging even more pulling force.
> 
> I just noticed that it's a MOLEX connector! If that big crimp can BARELY hug the plastic, I doubt a standard ATX crimp will even get around it!


Yes you are right. Its not perfect. Its my first crimp (really) lol







ill try with the atx pins and see if it can be done.

Thank you


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chemikl*
> 
> Yes you are right. Its not perfect. Its my first crimp (really) lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ill try with the atx pins and see if it can be done.
> 
> Thank you


Which crimping tool are you using







?


----------



## chemikl

This one


----------



## chemikl

Atx pin crimped



Tested in a crappy old extension that i dont use anymore


Please dont mind the insulation i know is awful. This little portion is from the end of the cable and is ruined. For testing pourposes only, lol. The cable is the same as the blue one from my latest post. This time is black









I know that the fins that have to bite the insulation must be on top of it, but im afraid that is not possible due the thickness of it. But i asure you that is grabbing strong the insulation.

The cable enters the connector well and the fins clicks on it perfectly.

What do you think, should i keep it or dump this cable.

Thank you all for your patience.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Hi Crew,

Been breezing through the thread. Some beautiful custom cables.

I have swapped out from a 900D with custom (long) cables into a CaseLabs S8. Obviously existing cables are way too long.

Purchased MDPC sleeving, crimping tool, pin remover and wire stripper. Watched the Lutro0 videos.

Purchased new connectors. How do I follow the same pinout on the connectors. With the 24pin for example, it terminates into the power supply with a 10 and 18 connector.

What is the best way to ensure I get the cables correctly position to match??

Stupid question, I know.

Cheers


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Hi Crew,
> 
> Been breezing through the thread. Some beautiful custom cables.
> 
> I have swapped out from a 900D with custom (long) cables into a CaseLabs S8. Obviously existing cables are way too long.
> 
> Purchased MDPC sleeving, crimping tool, pin remover and wire stripper. Watched the Lutro0 videos.
> 
> Purchased new connectors. How do I follow the same pinout on the connectors. With the 24pin for example, it terminates into the power supply with a 10 and 18 connector.
> 
> What is the best way to ensure I get the cables correctly position to match??
> 
> Stupid question, I know.
> 
> Cheers


Lutro has a video for double wires 



 if that's what you're talking about. If you're talking about getting the right pinout, check if your psu model is here or you can make your own diagram.


----------



## ruffhi

I was in the same boat with my seasonic PSU. I made a short boot that went from the 18 + 10 to a 24 ... then a straight extension from the 24 to the motherboard. You do all the crazy wire stuff, double wire, etc in the boot.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Lutro has a video for double wires
> 
> 
> 
> if that's what you're talking about. If you're talking about getting the right pinout, check if your psu model is here or you can make your own diagram.


Thank you for the links and information. Looking at both now. I am wandering if I am biting off more than I can chew, especially when I have two left thumbs









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I was in the same boat with my seasonic PSU. I made a short boot that went from the 18 + 10 to a 24 ... then a straight extension from the 24 to the motherboard. You do all the crazy wire stuff, double wire, etc in the boot.


Hey ruffhi, I did see your boot you made. Great idea. I also have a seasonic PSU X series. A few years old now. Thankyou.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Lutro has a video for double wires
> 
> 
> 
> if that's what you're talking about. If you're talking about getting the right pinout, check if your psu model is here or you can make your own diagram.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for the links and information. Looking at both now. I am wandering if I am biting off more than I can chew, especially when I have two left thumbs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I was in the same boat with my seasonic PSU. I made a short boot that went from the 18 + 10 to a 24 ... then a straight extension from the 24 to the motherboard. You do all the crazy wire stuff, double wire, etc in the boot.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hey ruffhi, I did see your boot you made. Great idea. I also have a seasonic PSU X series. A few years old now. Thankyou.
Click to expand...

It just takes some practice and patience, really not that difficult once you get the hang of it.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Hi Crew,
> 
> Been breezing through the thread. Some beautiful custom cables.
> 
> I have swapped out from a 900D with custom (long) cables into a CaseLabs S8. Obviously existing cables are way too long.
> 
> Purchased MDPC sleeving, crimping tool, pin remover and wire stripper. Watched the Lutro0 videos.
> 
> Purchased new connectors. How do I follow the same pinout on the connectors. With the 24pin for example, it terminates into the power supply with a 10 and 18 connector.
> 
> What is the best way to ensure I get the cables correctly position to match??
> 
> Stupid question, I know.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> Lutro has a video for double wires
> 
> 
> 
> if that's what you're talking about. If you're talking about getting the right pinout, check if your psu model is here or you can make your own diagram.
Click to expand...

I cringe every time someone recommends that video. Lutro has forgotten more about sleeving wires than any of us will ever know but the man does NOT know the proper way to make a soldered splice. Solder should never be all that holds wires together; all the solder should be doing is ensuring a good electrical bond.. Enough insulation should be stripped from the wires to allow them to be twisted together. When twisted properly, it should be pretty much impossible to pull them apart. I just did a quick splice job to show what I mean (excuse the lousy photos; it's late, well past my bedtime). I also used #14 wire because it was handy and easier to photograph.

Here I have stripped the wires and untwisted the strands like Lutro did.



Here, they have been twisted together. I would have to work hard to pull them apart at this point.



And here is the splice after soldering (I was too lazy to dig out my soldering iron and wait for it to heat up so I just used my soldering gun).



I didn't heat the wire long enough to burn off all the flux because I was melting the insulation (I was also using too large of solder; I just grabbed what was handy). One should use only enough solder to ensure every strand has been coated but not so much the solder is piled on; you should still be able to see the strands.The exposed conductor will be pretty much level with the insulation on the single wire coming off the splice once you put a heat shrink sleeve on it. Once you actually sleeve over the wire and the heat shrink sleeve over the exposed conductor, the joint there will barely show, if at all.


----------



## Deedaz

I completely forgot about that solder job in the video







I knew how to solder beforehand so I kinda ignored that. I think he mentions in the vid that he sucks at soldering too.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> I cringe every time someone recommends that video. Lutro has forgotten more about sleeving wires than any of us will ever know but the man does NOT know the proper way to make a soldered splice. Solder should never be all that holds wires together; all the solder should be doing is ensuring a good electrical bond.. Enough insulation should be stripped from the wires to allow them to be twisted together. When twisted properly, it should be pretty much impossible to pull them apart. I just did a quick splice job to show what I mean (excuse the lousy photos; it's late, well past my bedtime). I also used #14 wire because it was handy and easier to photograph.
> 
> Here I have stripped the wires and untwisted the strands like Lutro did.
> 
> 
> 
> Here, they have been twisted together. I would have to work hard to pull them apart at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the splice after soldering (I was too lazy to dig out my soldering iron and wait for it to heat up so I just used my soldering gun).
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't heat the wire long enough to burn off all the flux because I was melting the insulation (I was also using too large of solder; I just grabbed what was handy). One should use only enough solder to ensure every strand has been coated but not so much the solder is piled on; you should still be able to see the strands.The exposed conductor will be pretty much level with the insulation on the single wire coming off the splice once you put a heat shrink sleeve on it. Once you actually sleeve over the wire and the heat shrink sleeve over the exposed conductor, the joint there will barely show, if at all.


Thank you M'Lady









I have also purchased a Corsair AX1200i to sleeve. Will be changing out the power supply from the Seasonic.

Purchased a 14 pin connector. From the diagram linked before, I assume that only pin number "13" is doubled..........................

Cheers


----------



## shhbz

hi All,
New to this forum just got over with my 24 pin cable for 750x but there is an issue and would like to clear out I earlier had a 750corsair wires which i modded for the sleeving purpose as after a confirmation from Corsair that they have used same cables for 750 and 750X but just got to know that the cables are different as earlier it was type 3 with 24 pin but the latest type 4 has got 28pin,so my question is can I used the old cables which I just sleeved for my new PSU Corsair 750X.
Thanks to all members for sharing video of sleeving here is my first try on sleeve.


----------



## baalbelphegor

Hello OC. I've got a very simple question that I'm sure someone will be able to answer for me. I finished my first watercooling build but it wouldn't POST. After troubleshooting I know for a fact it's my GPU's cables, as the stock ones will POST and BOOT.

My PSU has two 8pin to 6+6+2 pin which I use to power my GPUs.

What I did was create four 8pin to 6pins and left two pins empty on the PSU side. I've come to the conclusion that I'm supplying too much power but I was wondering how I should go about sleeving this?

Extensions are not an option as my cables are bright red (yuck) in a black and white build. I am using the EVGA Supernova 1000p2.

thanks in advance for your help and below are the pictures:


Spoiler: pics


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baalbelphegor*
> 
> Hello OC. I've got a very simple question that I'm sure someone will be able to answer for me. I finished my first watercooling build but it wouldn't POST. After troubleshooting I know for a fact it's my GPU's cables, as the stock ones will POST and BOOT.
> 
> My PSU has two 8pin to 6+6+2 pin which I use to power my GPUs.
> 
> What I did was create four 8pin to 6pins and left two pins empty on the PSU side. I've come to the conclusion that I'm supplying too much power but I was wondering how I should go about sleeving this?
> 
> Extensions are not an option as my cables are bright red (yuck) in a black and white build. I am using the EVGA Supernova 1000p2.
> 
> thanks in advance for your help and below are the pictures:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pics


As long as sleeving is done correctly and wires match 12V to 12V etc, it should work. Power is not PUSHED it's PULLED so you can't provide more power than the device requires


----------



## nyk20z3

Has any one used icemodz for sleeving jobs ?. I am looking to get my In Win 750 Classic sleeved and i had to request the pin out since its brand new to the market.


----------



## atomicus

I am curious what kind of length difference are people going with between the top and bottom cables on their cables? Are you keeping it around the same across all cables? I did x2 8-pins myself with the top being 30cm and the bottom being 27.5cm, but I found that to be a bit much. I got it working fine by hiding some of the excess behind the motherboard tray, but I think that much would be more for a big arc. Maybe a 24-pin would need more, given they tend be more of an arc?


----------



## Himo5

On the 24pin it may waste a foot or so of wire but if, having used a piece of wire to measure the path you want the cable to follow you then cut the pieces you want a little longer and crimp each of them at one end you can fit the wires into their pins in the motherboard - or other device - connector and then use masking tape to shape the cable into the exact path you want it to follow. This will give you the length needed by every wire to reach the PSU as you want it. As long as you can then label each wire and make sure you can put it where you labelled it the only problem left will be making sure you crimp the other end at the right angle round the wire.


----------



## baalbelphegor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *baalbelphegor*
> 
> Hello OC. I've got a very simple question that I'm sure someone will be able to answer for me. I finished my first watercooling build but it wouldn't POST. After troubleshooting I know for a fact it's my GPU's cables, as the stock ones will POST and BOOT.
> 
> My PSU has two 8pin to 6+6+2 pin which I use to power my GPUs.
> 
> What I did was create four 8pin to 6pins and left two pins empty on the PSU side. I've come to the conclusion that I'm supplying too much power but I was wondering how I should go about sleeving this?
> 
> Extensions are not an option as my cables are bright red (yuck) in a black and white build. I am using the EVGA Supernova 1000p2.
> 
> thanks in advance for your help and below are the pictures:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As long as sleeving is done correctly and wires match 12V to 12V etc, it should work. Power is not PUSHED it's PULLED so you can't provide more power than the device requires
Click to expand...

I guess more of what I'm asking is, how was the way I set up my custom cables incorrect? The difference is that my computer turns on with only two of the provided 6pin + 6+2pin and doesn't turn on with four 6pins. I've seen that the 6pin is supposed to have a 5V and 3.3V which I have read is to aid the power supply in measuring voltage and clearly I have not done that. I guess I'm also surprised that I can power a GPU off of a single 6pin + 6+2pin cable.


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baalbelphegor*
> 
> I guess more of what I'm asking is, how was the way I set up my custom cables incorrect? The difference is that my computer turns on with only two of the provided 6pin + 6+2pin and doesn't turn on with four 6pins. I've seen that the 6pin is supposed to have a 5V and 3.3V which I have read is to aid the power supply in measuring voltage and clearly I have not done that. I guess I'm also surprised that I can power a GPU off of a single 6pin + 6+2pin cable.


You're doing something weird... the PSU does have some 6-pin conenctors which include 5V and 3.3V but these are for the Molex and Sata connectors (the molex connectors will not have the 3.3V though), there are OTHER 6-pins intended ONLY for CPUs and GPUs which ALL have only 12V and Ground. The 6 pin end has a line of 12V and a line of Ground, the CPU ends have the 12V in the opposite edge, the 8-pin have the same pins as the 6-pin plus a column of ground.

You seem to be having too much luck without burning something because I'm afraid you're doing something wrong my friend! Please disconnect that thing... send pictures of your PSU where are you plugging the ORIGINAL 8-pin cables and where are you plugging the custom made ones.

Double check your custom made cables. As stated your PSU has probably dedicated connectors for CPUs and GPUs, because they only use 12V and ground. The difference is the rows will be inverted. I haven't checked your particular PSU, if it has connectors ONLY for CPU, others ONLY for GPUs and others ONLY for peripherals. Mine shares the CPU-GPU connectors only changing the cable.


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baalbelphegor*
> 
> I guess more of what I'm asking is, how was the way I set up my custom cables incorrect? The difference is that my computer turns on with only two of the provided 6pin + 6+2pin and doesn't turn on with four 6pins. I've seen that the 6pin is supposed to have a 5V and 3.3V which I have read is to aid the power supply in measuring voltage and clearly I have not done that. I guess I'm also surprised that I can power a GPU off of a single 6pin + 6+2pin cable.


OK I'm checking your PSU, it has separated connectors for VGA, CPU, even SATA and Peripherals are separated (but I bet they're the same).

What occurs to me is your cables would be missing the wrong two pins... hmmm


----------



## Mega Man

I agree it sound to me like you have a miss wire.


----------



## geort45

Please post photos:

-Photo of original cable, show the end that plugs into the PSU, alongside your custom cable, showing the end that goes to the PSU
-Same thing but with the opposite end of the cables


----------



## baalbelphegor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Please post photos:
> 
> -Photo of original cable, show the end that plugs into the PSU, alongside your custom cable, showing the end that goes to the PSU
> -Same thing but with the opposite end of the cables


I posted photos in my original post. It shows both ends of both cables, the original being red. The last photo is the pinout that someone has made for the PSU on OC.net. I also already mentioned and showed in the photo that the cable is missing two pins.

I understand that the PSU side is all 12V, but according to that pinout the 6pin side has a 3.3V and 5V which I had read was for the PSU to monitor voltage. As for placement of my cables, I am not using extensions so I am replacing the red cable with my two custom cables.


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baalbelphegor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Please post photos:
> 
> -Photo of original cable, show the end that plugs into the PSU, alongside your custom cable, showing the end that goes to the PSU
> -Same thing but with the opposite end of the cables
> 
> 
> 
> I posted photos in my original post. It shows both ends of both cables, the original being red. The last photo is the pinout that someone has made for the PSU on OC.net. I also already mentioned and showed in the photo that the cable is missing two pins.
> 
> I understand that the PSU side is all 12V, but according to that pinout the 6pin side has a 3.3V and 5V which I had read was for the PSU to monitor voltage. As for placement of my cables, I am not using extensions so I am replacing the red cable with my two custom cables.
Click to expand...

PCIe dont use EVER 5V nor 3.3V, period, that pinout is for the sata and peripheral connectors


----------



## baalbelphegor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> PCIe dont use EVER 5V nor 3.3V, period, that pinout is for the sata and peripheral connectors


Ah, I see. Either way I figured since the PSU was all 12V I would just make separate 8 pins and just leave out the 2 pins from the connector. The 6+6+2 pin looks like both 6pins are one to one which is why I did it that way.

I didn't want to cut open the original cables but I'm tempted now. However, they are glued under the shrink wrap and I'm not sure I can even cut through it.

edit: geort45, I see what I've done wrong now. The last pinout I showed has the 12V in pins 1, 2, and 3. On half of connectors I have them in pins 4, 3, and 2. I will make the change. Thanks for helping me read the pinout.


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baalbelphegor*
> 
> Ah, I see. Either way I figured since the PSU was all 12V I would just make separate 8 pins and just leave out the 2 pins from the connector. The 6+6+2 pin looks like both 6pins are one to one which is why I did it that way.
> 
> I didn't want to cut open the original cables but I'm tempted now. However, they are glued under the shrink wrap and I'm not sure I can even cut through it.
> 
> edit: geort45, I see what I've done wrong now. The last pinout I showed has the 12V in pins 1, 2, and 3. On half of connectors I have them in pins 4, 3, and 2. I will make the change. Thanks for helping me read the pinout.


Great! You're lucky you didn't fry anything







. Cheers!


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> I am curious what kind of length difference are people going with between the top and bottom cables on their cables? Are you keeping it around the same across all cables? I did x2 8-pins myself with the top being 30cm and the bottom being 27.5cm, but I found that to be a bit much. I got it working fine by hiding some of the excess behind the motherboard tray, but I think that much would be more for a big arc. Maybe a 24-pin would need more, given they tend be more of an arc?


There is some mathematics that helps here. I chatted about it in my log but the short answer is to reduce the inner wire length by 1/4" per 90° turn required. So ... if you want your extension to go through 270° ... reduce the inner wire length by 3/4".

The size of the arc is not important (the maths shows that the arc measurement cancels out).


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> There is some mathematics that helps here. I chatted about it in my log but the short answer is to reduce the inner wire length by 1/4" per 90° turn required. So ... if you want your extension to go through 270° ... reduce the inner wire length by 3/4".
> 
> The size of the arc is not important (the maths shows that the arc measurement cancels out).


Ah OK, that definitely helps, thank you. So the total degree is basically from the start point to the end point, working out the approximate degree of the bend and adjusting accordingly? Thing is, isn't it tricky with an extension knowing exactly where that start point will be, given the mess of cables behind the motherboard, so it's hard to know exactly where you'll be starting? You could easily be quite a few inches out from where you think, and if that point is higher or lower in the case, it could alter that degree measurement quite a bit couldn't it? Or am I over complicating things lol?


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> There is some mathematics that helps here. I chatted about it in my log but the short answer is to reduce the inner wire length by 1/4" per 90° turn required. So ... if you want your extension to go through 270° ... reduce the inner wire length by 3/4".
> 
> The size of the arc is not important (the maths shows that the arc measurement cancels out).
> 
> 
> 
> Ah OK, that definitely helps, thank you. So the total degree is basically from the start point to the end point, working out the approximate degree of the bend and adjusting accordingly? Thing is, isn't it tricky with an extension knowing exactly where that start point will be, given the mess of cables behind the motherboard, so it's hard to know exactly where you'll be starting? You could easily be quite a few inches out from where you think, and if that point is higher or lower in the case, it could alter that degree measurement quite a bit couldn't it? Or am I over complicating things lol?
Click to expand...

The 24-pin on the motherboard points straight up. The outlet on the PSU points horizontally.

Code:



Code:


   /-----\
   |     |
   |     ~~~~~~
   |
   \---[]

The [] is the PSU. The ~~~~~~~~ is the motherboard. So this particular cable run goes through 270°.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> Or am I over complicating things lol?


short answer ... YES







.

The question is the length of the outside wire. Yes ... it will be a guess. Take your best guess ... try not to make it too long ... but long is much better than short. I guessed 10" for mine and added an 1" for a safety margin. It ended up being 3.5" inches too long







... bad guess.

I am going to try again ... I will probably be cutting one wire and testing that for length ... before cutting the other 23.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

This is doing my head in. I have actually got pretty proficient with the crimp tool and sleeving. It is the pin out I am having trouble with.

Found the pin out repository. I am making an adaptor so that the 24 pin cable is one to one.

Have an Asus Rampage V Extreme motherboard with the 24 pin around the "wrong" way.

Have a new Corsair AX1200i to connect too.

Tried following these pictures:

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=127664&page=8

But he has the power supply the other way up. I cannot do that due pump etc.

Dammit.


----------



## ruffhi

So ... if Chris has the PSU one way ... and you have it the other way, then his nice 'straight' cable runs aren't going to work for you.

Imagine this picture ...



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















... with the 24-pin connector flipped upside down. It would put a huge twist in the wires.

Another approach is shown here where you crimp the other end of the wires at the end .. not as you go. I am going to repeat my 'boot' this way ... I think I will end u pwith something cleaner than I got the first time.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> So ... if Chris has the PSU one way ... and you have it the other way, then his nice 'straight' cable runs aren't going to work for you.
> 
> Imagine this picture ...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... with the 24-pin connector flipped upside down. It would put a huge twist in the wires.
> 
> Another approach is shown here where you crimp the other end of the wires at the end .. not as you go. I am going to repeat my 'boot' this way ... I think I will end u pwith something cleaner than I got the first time.


Hi ruffhi,

Exactly. Unfortunately with the RVE having the motherboard plug the way it is, the preferred PSU orientation and the adaptor plugs, it is impossible without twisting. Really disappointed. I cannot turn the PSU over. My pump will get in the way. Twisting the wires is going to make a long adaptor. Double pins are near on bloody impossible. Time to give up I think.


----------



## j0achim

Finally got my shipment of paracord (550) today and got started on a spare PCI-E cable for my AX1200i, too bad it has a split cable but oh well I am sure I will figure it out.

A peek on my result so far after 4 attempts.



I will redo the black sleeve without heat shrinks as they are just a pain to work with.

And a picture of the mold itself inside the socket.



First time I attempt to sleeve PSU cables, I ended up using a paperclip the once used in a tack gun.

And final result of my first fully sleeved cable I'm very pleased with the outcome!



Other side of the cable where there is a double ground I solved this with some super glue and heat shrink to avoid any threads starting to appear.



More to come when I'm all done


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j0achim*
> 
> Finally got my shipment of paracord (550) today and got started on a spare PCI-E cable for my AX1200i, too bad it has a split cable but oh well I am sure I will figure it out.
> 
> A peek on my result so far after 4 attempts.
> 
> 
> 
> I will redo the black sleeve without heat shrinks as they are just a pain to work with.
> 
> And a picture of the mold itself inside the socket.
> 
> 
> 
> First time I attempt to sleeve PSU cables, I ended up using a paperclip the once used in a tack gun.
> 
> And final result of my first fully sleeved cable I'm very pleased with the outcome!
> 
> 
> 
> Other side of the cable where there is a double ground I solved this with some super glue and heat shrink to avoid any threads starting to appear.
> 
> 
> 
> More to come when I'm all done


Double wire on an 8pin pcie connector? Thats weird, what end is it? gpu side or psu side???


----------



## j0achim

The double wire is on the PSU side.


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j0achim*
> 
> The double wire is on the PSU side.


Oh ok ok, yeah I just checked the pinout, the PSU has 8pins with 4x12V and 4xGround...


----------



## j0achim

Second cable SATA power cable, also removed one plug as I only require 3









With this one I had to use heat shrinks as well as superglue to make the sleeve stay in place.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> So ... if Chris has the PSU one way ... and you have it the other way, then his nice 'straight' cable runs aren't going to work for you.
> 
> Imagine this picture ...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... with the 24-pin connector flipped upside down. It would put a huge twist in the wires.
> 
> Another approach is shown here where you crimp the other end of the wires at the end .. not as you go. I am going to repeat my 'boot' this way ... I think I will end u pwith something cleaner than I got the first time.


Thank you ruffhi. The link you posted helped immensely. Basically did a crossover in the link (though not as pretty) and it worked. Did one pin and wire at a time. Tested with a PSU tester. Perfect.

My molex plug and cable not so much. Some magic smoke came out of the Aqua Computer Farbwerk............... didnt test it first. Surprisingly it is still working









What is the best tool to use when placing the cable into the "pass through" style molex and SATA plugs? Used a flat blade screw driver, but what a mess









Found it:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I Just received my MOLEX insertion tool for SATA power inline connectors. The tool is very nice quality and has some weight to it. Here are some pics.


----------



## FooSkiii

hey guys i have a Corsair rm1000, i recently sleeved one of the 8 pin pcie connector (6+2 connector)
I toke each pin out one by one sleeved it then put it back in the same exact spot
But when i plug it into the gpu and power supply the computer won't turn on at all. When i use a different 8 pcie cable it works just fine.
I did do a double ground and only 3 of the 8 pins have power the other 5 are ground.
Any ideas as to what i did wrong?


----------



## P?P?!

Check the other cable one by one and see if they are the same. If not maybe just your crimps to make sure they are all seated correctly in the block.


----------



## ruffhi

Are you sure on the 3/8 have power. I have a seasonic and it is 4/8 have power.

Here is a pic for a corsair ax1200i ... not your rm1000 ... but aren't all pcie connectors just straight shots between the PSU and the GPU?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## FooSkiii

I will double check again P?P?!

Ruffhi the psu is 4 ground 4 power just like that but the actual pcie there is only 3 pins in the power slot and 4 pins in the ground slot that that gets split so it ends up being 3 power 5 ground into the gpu

its a 6+2 pcie cable, not the solid 8 pin that would go to the cpu on the mobo.

thats my fault for not being more specific sorry.


----------



## ruffhi

I've never really been happy with my 24-pin 'boot'. And my 24-pin extension is a good 3" too long. And I am sick and tied of this office. Look at these shoes. I've only had them three weeks and the heels are worn right through. If you complain nothing happens, you might as well not bother. Oh my back hurts and it's not a very fine day.

Anyway ... I've been thinking about re-doing the boot. Then I saw this post by @MOD-ONE that showed me two concepts I hadn't seen before ...


How to get your boot wires exactly the right length
Make them all too long and then run them through the connector ... and either snip / snip or mark them

Another way of doing 2:1 pin connections










I had tried method #1 (left above) where I soldered them together. Result ... fair.
I had tried method #2 (middle) where you double crimp them in the extension connector. Result ... a little better than fair.

But I hadn't seen method #3 (right) where the double crimp is on the PSU side.

*SO!!! Question* ... I am guessing they are all equivalent ... with the requirement that you are connecting all three pins ... does it really matter how they are connected? Is that right?


----------



## Deedaz

I finished the 24pin for S8 build I'll be starting soon. What do you guys think?


----------



## colinreay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I finished the 24pin for S8 build I'll be starting soon. What do you guys think?


I like it!


----------



## colinreay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> But I hadn't seen method #3 (right) where the double crimp is on the PSU side.
> 
> *SO!!! Question* ... I am guessing they are all equivalent ... with the requirement that you are connecting all three pins ... does it really matter how they are connected? Is that right?[/SIZE]


I think that should work just fine, it's pretty much what any psu maker does on double wires, except on the opposite end. The only problem I can see is sleeving both ends and stuffing them in to one connector. Clipping the walls of the connector off (not the whole wall, just the end part might help.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I've never really been happy with my 24-pin 'boot'. And my 24-pin extension is a good 3" too long. And I am sick and tied of this office weather. Look at these shoes. I've only had them three weeks and the heels are worn right through. If you complain nothing happens, you might as well not bother. Oh my back hurts and it's not a very fine day.
> 
> Anyway ... I've been thinking about re-doing the boot. Then I saw this post by @MOD-ONE that showed me two concepts I hadn't seen before ...
> 
> 
> How to get your boot wires exactly the right length
> Make them all too long and then run them through the connector ... and either snip / snip or mark them
> 
> Another way of doing 2:1 pin connections
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had tried method #1 (left above) where I soldered them together. Result ... fair.
> I had tried method #2 (middle) where you double crimp them in the extension connector. Result ... a little better than fair.
> 
> But I hadn't seen method #3 (right) where the double crimp is on the PSU side.
> 
> *SO!!! Question* ... I am guessing they are all equivalent ... with the requirement that you are connecting all three pins ... does it really matter how they are connected? Is that right?


If the PSU end of the cable can't be seen, #3 would look best (clever idea, btw). This would be especially ideal when a PSU shroud that also covers the PSU end of the cables is used; then you wouldn't have to worry about getting double sleeves to fit into a connector. The only difference I could see would be if the double wires were used to reduce voltage drop but that can also be achieved by using a larger single wire.


----------



## colinreay

Tried something really different - liked how they turned out!


Spoiler: Expand















Got wire wraps, paracord (Starry night + Imperial Red w/ stripes), connectors and terminals from Joey at http://www.ensourced.net/Ensourced, and 16 AWG UL1007 Wire from Buywireonline - side note, if you do buy from them, they don't tell you when your wire ships or anything, it just showed up at my door the week after I bought it.

Need to print some of my own combs to work with the wire, Joey's are a little loose on my wires.


----------



## atomicus

Has anyone made a custom 4-pin fan extension cable? Is it possible to make one heatshrinkless? All the ready made ones I've seen and tried are really stiff with a couple cm of heatshrink that make them very rigid, even if you trim some of that off. I need a very flexible one to turn a sharp angle just after plugging in. If you could buy ready made that would suit me as I only need one, but such an item doesn't seem to exist.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Has anyone made a custom 4-pin fan extension cable? Is it possible to make one heatshrinkless? All the ready made ones I've seen and tried are really stiff with a couple cm of heatshrink that make them very rigid, even if you trim some of that off. I need a very flexible one to turn a sharp angle just after plugging in. If you could buy ready made that would suit me as I only need one, but such an item doesn't seem to exist.


Let the heat shrink go over the cable end of the connector and bend the cable before shrinking the heat shrink.


----------



## colinreay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Has anyone made a custom 4-pin fan extension cable? Is it possible to make one heatshrinkless? All the ready made ones I've seen and tried are really stiff with a couple cm of heatshrink that make them very rigid, even if you trim some of that off. I need a very flexible one to turn a sharp angle just after plugging in. If you could buy ready made that would suit me as I only need one, but such an item doesn't seem to exist.


Check out Cablemods. Might be just what you were looking for!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> *SO!!! Question* ... I am guessing they are all equivalent ... with the requirement that you are connecting all three pins ... does it really matter how they are connected? Is that right?[/SIZE]


The reason double wires are used is for fine regulation of voltage. The construction is a kind of Kelvin Bridge, like an ohmeter. If you connect the wires as in your #3 example will mean that the PSU can no longer measure the resistance delta, it will seem to be 0.

The PSU will still continue to work of course, but likelihood that it will be slightly over- or undervolting depending on the length of the cables you attach.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> *SO!!! Question* ... I am guessing they are all equivalent ... with the requirement that you are connecting all three pins ... does it really matter how they are connected? Is that right?
> 
> 
> 
> The reason double wires are used is for fine regulation of voltage. The construction is a kind of Kelvin Bridge, like an ohmeter. If you connect the wires as in your #3 example will mean that the PSU can no longer measure the resistance delta, it will seem to be 0.
> 
> The PSU will still continue to work of course, but likelihood that it will be slightly over- or undervolting depending on the length of the cables you attach.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. That is good to know.

So ... if I use a boot and then a straight short 24-cable extension ... doesn't that stop the PSU from measuring the resistance delta too?

For Info: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kelvin_bridge

+REP


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> So ... if I use a boot and then a straight short 24-cable extension ... doesn't that stop the PSU from measuring the resistance delta too?


It depends on the PSU. Sometimes the two output wires from the PSU are connected as a proper Kelvin Bridge, but this is unlikely. Sometimes one of the pins has a small resistor before it. Sometimes the double wires are just two wires of differing internal resistance which the PSU uses to 'compare' resistance with other wires of the same nominal voltage. Probably you have to open it to know for sure.

I can see in your picture you are using all new self-crimped wires, rather than resleeving, so I don't think you can easily recreate the situation as the PSU expects.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I can see in your picture you are using all new self-crimped wires, rather than resleeving, so I don't think you can easily recreate the situation as the PSU expects.


That is true. If I don't want to resleeve (and I don't), then I think the best I can do is use the original 24-pin cable as my 'boot' and make a really short extension for the exposed part.

OR ... I could just say 'hang it' and keep on trucking with what I have.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colinreay*
> 
> Check out Cablemods. Might be just what you were looking for!


Actually yes, exactly what I'm looking for... unfortunately, I'm in the UK and they don't sell these extensions on the EU store. The Global store wants to charge me $20 shipping... err, no thanks!


----------



## Himo5

If you can find some 2mm sleeving and heat shrink - I got my sleeving from ModDiy and the heat shrink came from a mixed bag obtained from Ebay - it is possible to do this yourself.


----------



## Curleyyy

I was looking at the CableMod ST series (SilverStone Strider 750w) and have a few thoughts:

- 2/3/4 x SATA: If I were to run 2x SSD + 2x HDD on a single 4x SATA cable, would all the drives get sufficient power, or am I best of getting single cables?

- 4+4 PIN EPS or 8 PIN EPS: I have a Maximus V GENE that comes with a 4+4 which I've read is for comparability with the older 4 pin ATX. Am I okay to assume that an 8 PIN EPS cable will work without an issue?

- Molex Power: I have an Essence STX sound card that requires power and I just bought a Scythe Kaze Server fan controller (30w/12v x 4channels) - Should I also have single power cables for those?

- 6+2 or 6 PIN PCI: I've read that the stock cables that come with the PSU have an extra voltage thingo on the cable, however with sleeved cables no one has this. Does it not really do anything, or are people not worried? "_2200uF capacitors are attached to PCI-E connectors.
This design also helps to maintain better voltage stability and improve ripple & noise performance._"

- What's the difference between ModFlex & ModMesh?

- PCCG.com.au sells CableMod's Kits for $109 but it comes with so many cables I wouldn't use, spares / duplicates. There's even one for a Floppy? However if I were to buy just the 6 or so cables from their site it costs over $150 and I think I was missing a cable. :c

My PSU:
http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=240


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Curleyyy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking at the CableMod ST series (SilverStone Strider 750w) and have a few thoughts:
> 
> - 2/3/4 x SATA: If I were to run 2x SSD + 2x HDD on a single 4x SATA cable, would all the drives get sufficient power, or am I best of getting single cables?
> 
> - 4+4 PIN EPS or 8 PIN EPS: I have a Maximus V GENE that comes with a 4+4 which I've read is for comparability with the older 4 pin ATX. Am I okay to assume that an 8 PIN EPS cable will work without an issue?
> 
> - Molex Power: I have an Essence STX sound card that requires power and I just bought a Scythe Kaze Server fan controller (30w/12v x 4channels) - Should I also have single power cables for those?
> 
> - 6+2 or 6 PIN PCI: I've read that the stock cables that come with the PSU have an extra voltage thingo on the cable, however with sleeved cables no one has this. Does it not really do anything, or are people not worried? "_2200uF capacitors are attached to PCI-E connectors.
> This design also helps to maintain better voltage stability and improve ripple & noise performance._"
> 
> - What's the difference between ModFlex & ModMesh?
> 
> - PCCG.com.au sells CableMod's Kits for $109 but it comes with so many cables I wouldn't use, spares / duplicates. There's even one for a Floppy? However if I were to buy just the 6 or so cables from their site it costs over $150 and I think I was missing a cable. :c
> 
> My PSU:
> http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=240


You can contact CableMod directly for a lot of those,but I at least wanted to answer that ModFlex is like Paracord and ModMesh is like plastic/nylon so I believe ModFlex will snag easier and wont look as good in the long term, but it will be more flexible and ModMesh is basically the opposite of that so it depends on your personal preference.


----------



## SQZY

Hi, I'm wondering whether someone knows where to get mint green/aqua sleeving that roughly fits this Mayhems fluid:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







The closest to the mentioned color tone I found was this sleeve
I don't care too much about it being PET or paracord (or something else) as it's used to set accents with one or two cables per extention.

Any information is much appreciated


----------



## fast_fate

*Mental Note:* white sleeving is not the best color choice over red, black, green and blue wiring








But keeping with the rest of the build, I'll be doing my darndest to hide them anyway


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SQZY*
> 
> Hi, I'm wondering whether someone knows where to get mint green/aqua sleeving that roughly fits this Mayhems fluid:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closest to the mentioned color tone I found was this sleeve
> I don't care too much about it being PET or paracord (or something else) as it's used to set accents with one or two cables per extention.
> 
> Any information is much appreciated


The nearest I can find is UV Green Phobya Flex Sleeve from suppliers like Aquatuning.


----------



## SQZY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> The nearest I can find is UV Green Phobya Flex Sleeve from suppliers like Aquatuning.


At first I didn't really want to use UV sleeves but now that I look at the different types, they really look similar to the fluid.
Thanks a lot!


----------



## ruffhi

I picked up 3 sample sets from various web sites ... see this post in my build log. There are three greens.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1590728/build-log-liquorice-allsorts-caselabs-s5-pedestal/100_100#post_25278516


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> *Mental Note:* white sleeving is not the best color choice over red, black, green and blue wiring
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But keeping with the rest of the build, I'll be doing my darndest to hide them anyway


If the sleeving is very tight over the wire you generally can't tell what colour is underneath. With the exception of yellow. And even then only if you have yellow and a darker colour next to it.


----------



## SQZY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I picked up 3 sample sets from various web sites ... see this post in my build log. There are three greens.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1590728/build-log-liquorice-allsorts-caselabs-s5-pedestal/100_100#post_25278516


Thank you for your answer. I'll look into it


----------



## ruffhi

I've studied various videos about removing pins from fittings ... thus I have also acquired the knowledge about how (think ... which way up!) the pins go back into the fittings (talking about fan cables in particular).

Here is a picture of a male (L) and female (R) fan pin.










Here is a picture of a Male (L) fitting (with cover) and a female (R) fitting.










I know that the little catch thingo on the female pin goes into the little hole in the female fitting ... but I don't really know which way the male pin should go.

The fittings are orientated the same way (guides at the back) ... am I right in thinking that the male pin will slide in with the catch thingo pointing towards me ... same as the female pin?

HELP?


----------



## Himo5

If you look carefully where the male pins enter the shrouded part of the connector you'll see a depinning slot is incorporated in the aperture in the same way as two slots are incorporated in MiniFit Jnr connectors. This indicates which way up the single lug of the male pin should be when the pin is inserted into the connector and also the size and shape of the depinning pin which you need to insert into the slot to get the pin out of the connector again.


----------



## ruffhi

Thx Himo5. Good info. I didn't even know you could de-pin a male fan hood.

So ... the catch on the pin goes on the same side as the 'guide' on the hood. I can work with that.

+REP


----------



## Mega Man

If you loom down the top of the connector you can see the slot used to insert something to push down the catch when removing the pin That is how I remember it

Edit missed a page just like the above shows


----------



## Himo5

I don't know for certain if its prongs are the right size and shape because I haven't got the Molex Pin Remover - I roll my own - but I think the depinning slot on shrouded male fan connectors is close enough to the side of the connector to allow one prong of the Molex Pin Remover to fit in the depinning slot while the other prong passes down the outside of the connector.


----------



## Mega Man

Paper clip ftw


----------



## jleslie246

EVGA PSU VGA and 24 pin cables: Leave caps in or take them out??


----------



## jleslie246

I made these (2x 6-pin, 2x8-pin) for my 780's. I used cord sheathing that came with an ez up tent. I guess it is considered 'paracord'? It was very time consuming but worth it imo. I did add combs later to keep them perfectly straight.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> EVGA PSU VGA and 24 pin cables: Leave caps in or take them out??


I like to remove them for a cleaner look.


----------



## jvillaveces

I have now sleeved every secondary cable (fans, front panel, temp sensors, pumps, aquaero connections, usb) in my existing system, and I'm beginning to get the hang of it, but I'm still using third-party cables for my primary cables (mobo, eps, peg). For my upcoming build, I want to go full-custom and make every cable myself. I'm kind of stuck at step one, i.e. documenting the pinout from the PSU I will use (Seasonic SS-1050XM2). So far, every cable I have made is symmetrical and 1-to-1, i.e. the connectors on both ends are identical to one another, or just one end needs to be re-pinned (front panel, fans, leds). Documenting these pinouts is not that difficult, but I'm scratching my head about the best way to describe a 24-pin cable, where you have double wires, wires that start at one pin number at the psu and end at another on the mobo, etc. My google skills have not helped uncover anything about this. What is the best way to draw/write down/document a pinout for this type of cable?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I have now sleeved every secondary cable (fans, front panel, temp sensors, pumps, aquaero connections, usb) in my existing system, and I'm beginning to get the hang of it, but I'm still using third-party cables for my primary cables (mobo, eps, peg). For my upcoming build, I want to go full-custom and make every cable myself. I'm kind of stuck at step one, i.e. documenting the pinout from the PSU I will use (Seasonic SS-1050XM2). So far, every cable I have made is symmetrical and 1-to-1, i.e. the connectors on both ends are identical to one another, or just one end needs to be re-pinned (front panel, fans, leds). Documenting these pinouts is not that difficult, but I'm scratching my head about the best way to describe a 24-pin cable, where you have double wires, wires that start at one pin number at the psu and end at another on the mobo, etc. My google skills have not helped uncover anything about this. What is the best way to draw/write down/document a pinout for this type of cable?


I just make a big diagram like this, numbering all the pins.


----------



## ruffhi

Email seasonic and ask for a pin-out of your PSU. They sent that file to me when I asked.

_*Topic Change!! ...*_

I've got pretty good at crimping fan pins (male and female), really good at crimping female pins for PSUs ... but I suck royally at crimping male pins for PSUs. Any hints?


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I have now sleeved every secondary cable (fans, front panel, temp sensors, pumps, aquaero connections, usb) in my existing system, and I'm beginning to get the hang of it, but I'm still using third-party cables for my primary cables (mobo, eps, peg). For my upcoming build, I want to go full-custom and make every cable myself. I'm kind of stuck at step one, i.e. documenting the pinout from the PSU I will use (Seasonic SS-1050XM2). So far, every cable I have made is symmetrical and 1-to-1, i.e. the connectors on both ends are identical to one another, or just one end needs to be re-pinned (front panel, fans, leds). Documenting these pinouts is not that difficult, but I'm scratching my head about the best way to describe a 24-pin cable, where you have double wires, wires that start at one pin number at the psu and end at another on the mobo, etc. My google skills have not helped uncover anything about this. What is the best way to draw/write down/document a pinout for this type of cable?
> 
> 
> 
> I just make a big diagram like this, numbering all the pins.
Click to expand...

If I am reading your diagram correctly, each wire is represented by a box, inside of which you write the pin number for the wire at the opposite connector? I love it, because it's smart and simple. Two further questions: (1) is there a pin numbering standard, or do you number them arbitrarily? (2) do you use a special notation for double pins?


----------



## jvillaveces

Double post. Please delete


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Email seasonic and ask for a pin-out of your PSU. They sent that file to me when I asked.
> 
> _*Topic Change!! ...*_
> 
> I've got pretty good at crimping fan pins (male and female), really good at crimping female pins for PSUs ... but I suck royally at crimping male pins for PSUs. Any hints?


I did, and I also PM'd their rep here before posting. To both messages they replied that, as a matter of policy, they don't provide pinouts, because it could affect their warranty.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I have now sleeved every secondary cable (fans, front panel, temp sensors, pumps, aquaero connections, usb) in my existing system, and I'm beginning to get the hang of it, but I'm still using third-party cables for my primary cables (mobo, eps, peg). For my upcoming build, I want to go full-custom and make every cable myself. I'm kind of stuck at step one, i.e. documenting the pinout from the PSU I will use (Seasonic SS-1050XM2). So far, every cable I have made is symmetrical and 1-to-1, i.e. the connectors on both ends are identical to one another, or just one end needs to be re-pinned (front panel, fans, leds). Documenting these pinouts is not that difficult, but I'm scratching my head about the best way to describe a 24-pin cable, where you have double wires, wires that start at one pin number at the psu and end at another on the mobo, etc. My google skills have not helped uncover anything about this. What is the best way to draw/write down/document a pinout for this type of cable?
> 
> 
> 
> I just make a big diagram like this, numbering all the pins.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If I am reading your diagram correctly, each wire is represented by a box, inside of which you write the pin number for the wire at the opposite connector? I love it, because it's smart and simple. Two further questions: (1) is there a pin numbering standard, or do you number them arbitrarily? (2) do you use a special notation for double pins?
Click to expand...

I don't know if there is a standard but I just numbered them 1-12 on top and 13-24 on the bottom. I wrote that number in the top corner and the pin it connects to on the psu side in the middle. Double wires I marked with a / on the 24pin and the letter d on the psu side. The squiggles underneath represent the clip latch.


----------



## Himo5

A lot - but not all - Mini-Fit Jr connectors have the pin numbers stamped on them at the rear (or wire entry) side of the connector housing.


For some reason people have got into the habit of making pinouts with the pin numbers going from last to first, which just adds to the headaches involved in it all. Here is my finalised pinout for the Seasonic Gold KM3 cable sets, which are the basis for many PSUs with the 10pin-18pin outlet scheme.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I did, and I also PM'd their rep here before posting. To both messages they replied that, as a matter of policy, they don't provide pinouts, because it could affect their warranty.


Did you look in the *Repository Of Power Supply Pin Outs*?


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> *Mental Note:* white sleeving is not the best color choice over red, black, green and blue wiring
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But keeping with the rest of the build, I'll be doing my darndest to hide them anyway


Here's a couple tips:
- Stretch the sleeve REALLY HARD. If your fingers are not hurting then you're not stretching enough







this makes not only the sleeve denser but the finished cable more rigid and easy to train!
- If you can't do anything with the cable's color, grab some cheap thin-walled heatshrink and place it on top of the whole cable (or cables) you want to sleeve. This acts as a "primer", works very well specially with front panel cables.

Pic for the heatshrink method:


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I did, and I also PM'd their rep here before posting. To both messages they replied that, as a matter of policy, they don't provide pinouts, because it could affect their warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you look in the *Repository Of Power Supply Pin Outs*?
Click to expand...

Did you?


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Did you?


Yup, but i'm not the one looking for pinout maps. I'm assuming its the same as the xm-1050 series pinout. That could be a bold assumption though. It doesn't help you figure out the best way to map out your cables. You can get stickers with numbers to help keep track of each end of the cable. Or write them down and double check everything with a multi-meter.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kl6mk6*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Did you?
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, but i'm not the one looking for pinout maps. I'm assuming its the same as the xm-1050 series pinout. That could be a bold assumption though. It doesn't help you figure out the best way to map out your cables. You can get stickers with numbers to help keep track of each end of the cable. Or write them down and double check everything with a multi-meter.
Click to expand...

Before posting I had already found that pinout, but didn't want to make the assumption that it was the same. It turns out it's not. Yesterday I disassembled my stock 24-pin and made a diagram. There are several key differences. I will be posting the pinout I found when I'm back at my PC.

I like the suggestion of checking everything with a multimeter but I don't know how. Where can I find information about this?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jvillaveces

Thanks for everyone's help! I made my own pinout for the Seasonic SS-1050XM2. As mentioned in a previous post, it's different from the XM version that was already in the repository, which I used as a template, All the wires in my ATX cable are black, so I ended up checking all the voltages with a Fluke, and represented them in my diagram with text in the standard colors. I'm making my own custom cable based on this pinout, and wanted to leave it here in case someone wants to refer to it in the future.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Thanks for everyone's help! I made my own pinout for the Seasonic SS-1050XM2. As mentioned in a previous post, it's different from the XM version that was already in the repository, which I used as a template, All the wires in my ATX cable are black, so I ended up checking all the voltages with a Fluke, and represented them in my diagram with text in the standard colors. I'm making my own custom cable based on this pinout, and wanted to leave it here in case someone wants to refer to it in the future.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm not sure if the repository is being updated, but you should post this there too, just in case.

There are two ways to check with a multimeter. Use the OHM/Tone setting and check pin to pin for continuity (end to end) of the connecters. You can also use the DC meter setting to verify (with the jumper in place) that you get the correct voltages in the correct pins with reference (the black lead) attached to ground. I'm sure there are good youtube videos on how to use a MM if you are not savvy with one. I use one every day for work, so I take for granted other ppls comfort level.

I'm glad you were able to use your Fluke to check the voltages. Good effort on your part.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Here's a couple tips:
> - Stretch the sleeve REALLY HARD. If your fingers are not hurting then you're not stretching enough


Or just use zipties.


----------



## Seanimus

Just put white tape...


And stretch ofcourse


use nose pliers to hold ends before doing shrinkless sleeving ..


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just put white tape...
> 
> 
> And stretch ofcourse
> 
> 
> use nose pliers to hold ends before doing shrinkless sleeving .


Very well done mid-line solder and heat shrink. Looks good!


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Just put white tape...
> ...


Nice looking splices. If you stagger them instead of putting them all in the same place, you will avoid the lump that would otherwise be there.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Nice looking splices. If you stagger them instead of putting them all in the same place, you will avoid the lump that would otherwise be there.


Yea normally I do that on 22AWG and higher.
For 26 AWG its small lump bottom left wire..barely noticeably.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Nice looking splices. If you stagger them instead of putting them all in the same place, you will avoid the lump that would otherwise be there.
> 
> 
> 
> Yea normally I do that on 22AWG and higher.
> For 26 AWG its small lump bottom left wire..barely noticeably.
Click to expand...

Point taken. I rarely use wire smaller than #16 so I never considered you would be using something like 26AWG (not a criticism, btw, nothing's wrong with #26 for light loads and short runs like what you pictured). Sorry!


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Point taken. I rarely use wire smaller than #16 so I never considered you would be using something like 26AWG (not a criticism, btw, nothing's wrong with #26 for light loads and short runs like what you pictured). Sorry!


I use 22AWG for splitty to AQ6, since that can have 6 fans on splitty. Power :18AWG, Single Fan: 26AWG.

16AWG i don't use, the wires are too stiff and for 24pin the whole cable becomes heavy.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Point taken. I rarely use wire smaller than #16 so I never considered you would be using something like 26AWG (not a criticism, btw, nothing's wrong with #26 for light loads and short runs like what you pictured). Sorry!
> 
> 
> 
> I use 22AWG for splitty to AQ6, since that can have 6 fans on splitty. Power :18AWG, Single Fan: 26AWG.
> 
> 16AWG i don't use, the wires are too stiff and for 24pin the whole cable becomes heavy.
Click to expand...

For me, stiff wires are good; they stay put wherever I put them. However, that isn't the reason I use #16 (or even #14) wire. I use the larger sizes for increased ampacity and lower voltage drop

I totally agree about the 24 pin cable becoming too heavy. I have yet to make one of those since I don't like individually sleeved cables (personal preference-they are far bulkier-but, otherwise, there's nothing wrong with them) so I just use the stock cable (on the better PSUs, they are adequately sized). On my new build, I'll probably strip away some of the stock sleeving on the 24 pin so I can rearrange the wires into a dual layer ribbon cable that will be able to hug the side of the MOBO and slip underneath it. I like to keep my cables as minimal and out of sight as possible (again, personal preference).


----------



## MOD-ONE

LOL... What a curious squirrel!


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MOD-ONE*
> 
> LOL... What a curious squirrel!


Squirrel = rat with good P.R.

Nice cable.


----------



## nyk20z3

24 Pin done by Icemodz -


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MOD-ONE*
> 
> LOL... What a curious squirrel!


Did the squirrel just drop down from a tree when you took couple of steps back to take a photograph? Too funny!


----------



## MOD-ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Squirrel = rat with good P.R.
> 
> Nice cable.


Haha, thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Did the squirrel just drop down from a tree when you took couple of steps back to take a photograph? Too funny!


It ran up to me and was staring at the cable in my hand. I set it down and fired off as many pics as I could : )


----------



## the1337moderate

Just finished making a custom set of patch cables for my scratch build project.
Link to scratch build thread.


----------



## pexon

That looks fantastic! Great job!

Here is a recent MDPC-X USB cable in Ranger Green


----------



## lowfat

Where did you buy the connectors?

Although I honestly would never do a phone cable again in PET sleeving. It is too stiff. Makes it too easy to damage the phone connector due to stress.


----------



## the1337moderate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Where did you buy the connectors?


If that question was directed at me, I bought the connectors and pins from ensourced.net.


----------



## Alan1187

So I ran into an issue with the Corsair 600C, the Corsair's RM750i SATA power connectors wont bridge between the 3 SSD brackets mounted in the back, so thus I am thinking of making my own cables. But I cannot seem to find myself a solid answer on what it is I NEED to go buy wire wise. I am getting this sense that I can use which ever between 16-22 gauge wire, but I don't feel that this is correct seeing how each line, in say the 24 pin, is for a different voltage. I already plan to be purchasing from a PC modding store that sold me some sleeving samples for MDPC, they have 16 and 18 available, but even their descriptions don't clarify this.

So in short...
What wire do I need to buy for SATA power, 16 or 18?
What wire do I need to buy for 6/8/24 pin?
What wire do I need to buy for Molex?

I have more questions obviously, but lets start at the base of it all.


----------



## kl6mk6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alan1187*
> 
> So I ran into an issue with the Corsair 600C, the Corsair's RM750i SATA power connectors wont bridge between the 3 SSD brackets mounted in the back, so thus I am thinking of making my own cables. But I cannot seem to find myself a solid answer on what it is I NEED to go buy wire wise. I am getting this sense that I can use which ever between 16-22 gauge wire, but I don't feel that this is correct seeing how each line, in say the 24 pin, is for a different voltage. I already plan to be purchasing from a PC modding store that sold me some sleeving samples for MDPC, they have 16 and 18 available, but even their descriptions don't clarify this.
> 
> So in short...
> What wire do I need to buy for SATA power, 16 or 18?
> What wire do I need to buy for 6/8/24 pin?
> What wire do I need to buy for Molex?
> 
> I have more questions obviously, but lets start at the base of it all.


I believe the standard for PSUs is 18 awg, but I would suggest going with 16AWG for the CPU, GPU, and 24 pin due to the higher sensitivity to potential voltage drop and higher current draw.


----------



## the1337moderate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alan1187*
> 
> So I ran into an issue with the Corsair 600C, the Corsair's RM750i SATA power connectors wont bridge between the 3 SSD brackets mounted in the back, so thus I am thinking of making my own cables. But I cannot seem to find myself a solid answer on what it is I NEED to go buy wire wise. I am getting this sense that I can use which ever between 16-22 gauge wire, but I don't feel that this is correct seeing how each line, in say the 24 pin, is for a different voltage. I already plan to be purchasing from a PC modding store that sold me some sleeving samples for MDPC, they have 16 and 18 available, but even their descriptions don't clarify this.
> 
> So in short...
> What wire do I need to buy for SATA power, 16 or 18?
> What wire do I need to buy for 6/8/24 pin?
> What wire do I need to buy for Molex?
> 
> I have more questions obviously, but lets start at the base of it all.


The reason why larger gauge wire is used is to carry more current. Larger wires will also have a smaller voltage drop delta compared to smaller gauge wire. Good rule of thumb for power supplies is to use the largest gauge you can get away with. It's like thermal compound, too much isn't going to hurt, but too little can be very bad.


----------



## lowfat

18AWG is perfectly fine for a computer power supply. The crimp is going to be the bottleneck no matter what wire you are going to use. I've used 12.5A through 18AWG and the wire doesn't even get hot. However the crimps got so hot they were almost melting the connectors.

Some people prefer 16AWG because it is stiffer. This may be necessary for paracord but not PET. 18AWG w/ tightly installed MDPC-X can stand 2-3 feet straight up. My wiring is 2 years old and hasn't sagged at all. Even if I disconnect the wiring from the device (GPU, motherboard, etc) it stays pretty much in the exact same spot.


----------



## Alan1187

So this is why there isn't a clear cut answer I see. Well thank you guys for the valuable input.


----------



## lowfat

As soon as Nils first shown the MDPC-X Diamond Red I knew I had to get some. I always wished they had a deeper red and even attempted to dye some myself, which really didn't work out great. A couple pics s/ some Grand Bleu.


----------



## SHNS0

Diamond red is beautiful


----------



## Petey

Just Thought I would drop by and show a new combo, I haven't seen before, Its in para cord, I dont know if thats ok or not, but though what the hell. I do paracord on the main gpu and motherboard then expandable sleeving for everything else, Makes a build more friendly. I like to wrap the collars so plugging unplugging is more stable, and speed for you dont have to so precise.



I know my sleeving job isnt the best, but I thought the colors were cool, so dropped the pic


----------



## _Killswitch_

In my WIP new pc, it's only my 3rd time sleeving cables, not world class like some of you guy's on here but i think it's decent


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> In my WIP new pc, it's only my 3rd time sleeving cables, not world class like some of you guy's on here but i think it's decent


Actually, that looks pretty good. I especially like the way you reversed the cable combs so they barely show. Clever!


----------



## lowfat

My very first 3d model. Have thought about using a 3d printer for cable management brackets for many years. Finally going to make them. Started w/ the simplest piece. This will screw in to the motherboard tray. the holes are angled since there isn't a whole lot of space behind the motherboard tray on this case.

http://hostthenpost.org

http://hostthenpost.org


----------



## pez

Whoa. I can't wait to see that in action. Please update us as you use them!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I have now sleeved every secondary cable (fans, front panel, temp sensors, pumps, aquaero connections, usb) in my existing system, and I'm beginning to get the hang of it, but I'm still using third-party cables for my primary cables (mobo, eps, peg). For my upcoming build, I want to go full-custom and make every cable myself. I'm kind of stuck at step one, i.e. documenting the pinout from the PSU I will use (Seasonic SS-1050XM2). So far, every cable I have made is symmetrical and 1-to-1, i.e. the connectors on both ends are identical to one another, or just one end needs to be re-pinned (front panel, fans, leds). Documenting these pinouts is not that difficult, but I'm scratching my head about the best way to describe a 24-pin cable, where you have double wires, wires that start at one pin number at the psu and end at another on the mobo, etc. My google skills have not helped uncover anything about this. What is the best way to draw/write down/document a pinout for this type of cable?


I know this is late, but graph paper is easiest way I have found


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> My very first 3d model. Have thought about using a 3d printer for cable management brackets for many years. Finally going to make them. Started w/ the simplest piece. This will screw in to the motherboard tray. the holes are angled since there isn't a whole lot of space behind the motherboard tray on this case.


Hell. that's exactly what I'm working on right now, only using a fretsaw on acrylic and dyeing the result. What clamping mechanism are you going to use? I'm trying a moulded Polymorph bracket with embedded M3 nuts screwed into place from the motherboard side using brass shim to smooth the result. The Polymorph isn't quite hard enough to grip even square nuts against a heavier torque so I'm hot glueing then moulding the Polymorph around them. Obviously, I'm using steel nuts and screws to stand up to the moulding process, but will be using black plastic countersunk screws afterwards which should be pretty well unnoticeable.


----------



## lowfat

I'll just be drill holes through the plastic. Then tapping some m3 holes in to the motherboard tray.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I have now sleeved every secondary cable (fans, front panel, temp sensors, pumps, aquaero connections, usb) in my existing system, and I'm beginning to get the hang of it, but I'm still using third-party cables for my primary cables (mobo, eps, peg). For my upcoming build, I want to go full-custom and make every cable myself. I'm kind of stuck at step one, i.e. documenting the pinout from the PSU I will use (Seasonic SS-1050XM2). So far, every cable I have made is symmetrical and 1-to-1, i.e. the connectors on both ends are identical to one another, or just one end needs to be re-pinned (front panel, fans, leds). Documenting these pinouts is not that difficult, but I'm scratching my head about the best way to describe a 24-pin cable, where you have double wires, wires that start at one pin number at the psu and end at another on the mobo, etc. My google skills have not helped uncover anything about this. What is the best way to draw/write down/document a pinout for this type of cable?
> 
> 
> 
> I know this is late, but graph paper is easiest way I have found
Click to expand...

Thanks MM, I already figured it our -- in fact, I already finished sleeving and testing it. Here is how I ended up documenting it...


----------



## pexon

I finished up this cable showcasing MDPC-X's flexibility and awesome colours last week


----------



## kgtuning

^Nice work.


----------



## khemist

Loving that!.


----------



## Mega Man

nice on the flex, ew on the combs .... just train the wires!!!


----------



## msd0

Good job! What kind of wire did you use?


----------



## pexon

Cheers guys.

I used our own sourced 18awg wire @msd0

I agree on the combs, I tend not to like them, especially with MDPC-X, it was just to show off the colours and combs


----------



## lowfat

Training wires w/o combs is damn near impossible.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Training wires w/o combs is damn near impossible.


And yet we see many people here do just that.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> And yet we see many people here do just that.


Maybe on an extension that only has a single curve. I've known of maybe 1 or 2 builders that can do a perfect cable w/o them. I'd like to think I'm pretty good at cable management (see Big Lian Li link in sig), but I still absolutely needed the combs to do the work.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Maybe on an extension that only has a single curve. I've known of maybe 1 or 2 builders that can do a perfect cable w/o them. *I'd like to think I'm pretty good at cable management* (see Big Lian Li link in sig), but I still absolutely needed the combs to do the work.


Understatement of the century







.


----------



## SHNS0

It's not nearly impossible to have great wires without combs. Having the sleeve super-tight on the electrical wire makes the cable easily trainable, of course it's a bit more difficult with MDPC-X.

With hardcore tightening and standard import sleeve I get cables that can kind of keep a 90° curve by themselves.
I think combs make us all a bit too lazy with proper technique, it's just too easy to mask errors with them. If I had them when I was learning I'd probably have missed on most of the experience.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Understatement of the century
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thanks.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> It's not nearly impossible to have great wires without combs. Having the sleeve super-tight on the electrical wire makes the cable easily trainable, of course it's a bit more difficult with MDPC-X.
> 
> With hardcore tightening and standard import sleeve I get cables that can kind of keep a 90° curve by themselves.
> I think combs make us all a bit too lazy with proper technique, it's just too easy to mask errors with them. If I had them when I was learning I'd probably have missed on most of the experience.


Are we talking about a simple extension? An extension is super easy compared to doing actual power supply cables. You can just precut all the wires and sleeving 12 will be one length, 12 will be another length.

I take the combs out afterward but without a doubt they are as important of a tool as my MDPC-X crimpers and Knipex strippers. It would take me 4 or 5 times longer to wire a system.

http://hostthenpost.org


----------



## korruptedkaos

made my own billet combs... might start selling them


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are we talking about a simple extension? An extension is super easy compared to doing actual power supply cables. You can just precut all the wires and sleeving 12 will be one length, 12 will be another length.
> 
> I take the combs out afterward but without a doubt they are as important of a tool as my MDPC-X crimpers and Knipex strippers. It would take me 4 or 5 times longer to wire a system.
> 
> http://hostthenpost.org


Oh I see, I was talking about having them permanently mounted, not using them as a tool for assembly and then removing.
So basically you use the combs to help you measuring the cables in place with the curves you want?

I haven't tried that yet actually, I learned sleeving and cable making before combs came out so I ended up having mixed feelings about them once I first saw them. Specially because it's super-easy to cheat on cablemaking technique when your cables are full of them and you can hide the nasty crap on the rear of the mb tray that nobody shows anymore.

Your builds are awesome and I was actually wondering why you would say that installing combs is necessary, since you really never appeared to me as someone who needs them








Actually I think I linked some pics of your builds to my friends and customers to show them how it's not impossible to have amazing cables without combs.

I'm personally all onto this new asian fad of silver teflon wires. Can't believe I found something that makes me reconsider sleeving.


----------



## emsj86

I. E been removing my gpu cable pins to add combs but when half the time the pins need to be ripped out causing the wings on the side of the pin to break. I have the tool to remove the gpu female pins and it works but only half the time. Any suggestions or tips? Also outside of Icemodz anyone know where to get mdpc x allready custom sleeved cables from. I'm in America btw


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I. E been removing my gpu cable pins to add combs but when half the time the pins need to be ripped out causing the wings on the side of the pin to break. I have the tool to remove the gpu female pins and it works but only half the time. Any suggestions or tips? Also outside of Icemodz anyone know where to get mdpc x allready custom sleeved cables from. I'm in America btw


I use heavy duty staples bent into 'L' shape... works 100% of the time.

edit: sometimes i use needle nose pliers to push down a little more.


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I. E been removing my gpu cable pins to add combs but when half the time the pins need to be ripped out causing the wings on the side of the pin to break. I have the tool to remove the gpu female pins and it works but only half the time. Any suggestions or tips? Also outside of Icemodz anyone know where to get mdpc x allready custom sleeved cables from. I'm in America btw


What tool are you using? Some imported ones are a pure piece of crap.
By the way, Nils on MDPC-X made a new page in which he promotes cable makers that use his products. Check it out, you'll find someone american and with a professional shop, I hope to be on that list one day









I personally recommend to anyone the original extractor. I've tried them all, there is simply no beating it. It will ALWAYS do the job perfectly. No fiddling, no getting mad over pins not coming out, no nasty surprises when your imported one breaks, no fingers hurting.
Just don't use it with an Enermax Platimax. That bastard's cables will break everything. Might as well just do it with staples.


----------



## msd0

I have the Molex extraction tool (part # 0011030044) and it works really well. I think it was around $15 at arrow https://www.arrow.com/en/products/0011030044/molex. If the pin doesn't come out easily, try pushing the cable into the connector and try again. Tugging on the cable will just make it harder to get out.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Oh I see, I was talking about having them permanently mounted, not using them as a tool for assembly and then removing.
> So basically you use the combs to help you measuring the cables in place with the curves you want?


Yes. It helps significantly in figuring out the shape I want and the length of wire I need. I'll probably end up 3d printing my own tool here in the next few days. I want something I can easily remove from the wires without having to de-pin everything.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> I use heavy duty staples bent into 'L' shape... works 100% of the time.


Finally someone else who has seen the light. I've been doing it this way for 3-4 years and no way will I ever go back to a tool. I file the tips of the staple slightly so its easier to insert. If I lose or break one, I can have another tool for a penny. Removing a pin takes about 15-20s and I never ever break a pin. Instead of using a pair of pliers I'd suggest using a 1.5mm (or similar standard) sized hex wrench and pushing the pin from the front. Much less likely to damage the pin that way I've found.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Yes. It helps significantly in figuring out the shape I want and the length of wire I need. I'll probably end up 3d printing my own tool here in the next few days. I want something I can easily remove from the wires without having to de-pin everything.
> Finally someone else who has seen the light. I've been doing it this way for 3-4 years and no way will I ever go back to a tool. I file the tips of the staple slightly so its easier to insert. If I lose or break one, I can have another tool for a penny. Removing a pin takes about 15-20s and I never ever break a pin. Instead of using a pair of pliers I'd suggest using a 1.5mm (or similar standard) sized hex wrench and pushing the pin from the front. Much less likely to damage the pin that way I've found.


haha.. where do you think I learned the staple trick from? A few years ago you recommended to me.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> What tool are you using? Some imported ones are a pure piece of crap.
> By the way, Nils on MDPC-X made a new page in which he promotes cable makers that use his products. Check it out, you'll find someone american and with a professional shop, I hope to be on that list one day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I personally recommend to anyone the original extractor. I've tried them all, there is simply no beating it. It will ALWAYS do the job perfectly. No fiddling, no getting mad over pins not coming out, no nasty surprises when your imported one breaks, no fingers hurting.
> Just don't use it with an Enermax Platimax. That bastard's cables will break everything. Might as well just do it with staples.


The one I use is the one I bought from icemodz whom is the person I usually deal with but he is backed up at the moment. This took me forever just to remove and put the cable combs on. Trying to train the cables for the side look.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are we talking about a simple extension? An extension is super easy compared to doing actual power supply cables. You can just precut all the wires and sleeving 12 will be one length, 12 will be another length.
> 
> I take the combs out afterward but without a doubt they are as important of a tool as my MDPC-X crimpers and Knipex strippers. It would take me 4 or 5 times longer to wire a system.
> 
> http://hostthenpost.org


Do you cut your cables to length beforehand or do you just leave them long and cut them at the psu? Doing simple 90, 180, 270 deg etc. bends is easy, but getting the length right at the psu has been challenging.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> ...Do you cut your cables to length beforehand or do you just leave them long and cut them at the psu? Doing simple 90, 180, 270 deg etc. bends is easy, but getting the length right at the psu has been challenging.


I would do it at the PSU end.


----------



## HugoStiglitz

I need some help.

I have a BeQuiet 650W PowerZone PSU, Ive sleeved all the cables except the 24 pin ATX. I left it to last as I knew It wont be easy..

It has a 20pin + 8 Pin on PSU side, 20+4pin on MB side.

I was wondering could I make the 8pin go to just the 4pin using double wires? This would mean then Id have 2 separate cables, 20 pin to 20 pin and 8 pin to 4 pin.

Can this be done providing all the 3.3v,5v and 12v etc go to the same place? What about sensor wires? Do they have to go to a specific pin or can it be any 3.3v?

I hope I am making sense and hope someone can help.

Regards,
Scott


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Do you cut your cables to length beforehand or do you just leave them long and cut them at the psu? Doing simple 90, 180, 270 deg etc. bends is easy, but getting the length right at the psu has been challenging.


Can't really cut the cables to length before hand as I don't know how long they'll be exactly. I'll start by crimping connectors on one end of the wires, Make the wires significantly longer than they'll need to be. Then I'll do a heatshrinkless sleeve on end of the wire. I'll pull the sleeve as tight as possible over the wire, then ziptie the other end. Now this part is kind of difficult. You'll need to feed all the wires through all the combs you will be using. In my case I use two. So if you are using a 1:1 24-pin (like Silverstone PSUs) you'll need to accommodate for the wire crossover (pic, 24-pin crossover is middle right) One comb before the crossover and one after. That way I can use a comb to get the correct shape on both ends. Then insert the connector on the side of the cable that actually has pins. Route it through the system. I did the motherboard end first and that was a big mistake. You'll want to start w/ hardest end first. In my case that is the PSU since it has the large curve, all the wires are significantly different lengths. So by doing this first you don't need to worry about cutting the wires to different lengths.

After its routed (and cables preferably secured) you'll need to terminate all the wires to the right lengths. This is by far the hardest part. Fist cut the wires to an approximate length, leaving slightly longer than you'll require. Hold the wires up to the connector as you think they should look. Use the comb as a straight edge and draw a line on the wires, both top and bottom set of wires. Leave the 3-4 mm extra required for the pins and cut. Then finish crimping and sleeving. You absolutely need to make sure you crimp the pin in the correct position. Having to twist the wire now to push in the connector will absolutely destroy your capabilities to train the wire. Finish shrinkless sleeving this end. After you are done all the wires remove the comb. If your wires are all the right lengths and the sleeve tight, training the wires will be an absolute joke. By having the wires the right lengths, no other wire is pushing against each other.

Hope that helps.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Can't really cut the cables to length before hand as I don't know how long they'll be exactly. I'll start by crimping connectors on one end of the wires, Make the wires significantly longer than they'll need to be. Then I'll do a heatshrinkless sleeve on end of the wire. I'll pull the sleeve as tight as possible over the wire, then ziptie the other end. Now this part is kind of difficult. You'll need to feed all the wires through all the combs you will be using. In my case I use two. So if you are using a 1:1 24-pin (like Silverstone PSUs) you'll need to accommodate for the wire crossover (pic, 24-pin crossover is middle right) One comb before the crossover and one after. That way I can use a comb to get the correct shape on both ends. Then insert the connector on the side of the cable that actually has pins. Route it through the system. I did the motherboard end first and that was a big mistake. You'll want to start w/ hardest end first. In my case that is the PSU since it has the large curve, all the wires are significantly different lengths. So by doing this first you don't need to worry about cutting the wires to different lengths.
> 
> After its routed (and cables preferably secured) you'll need to terminate all the wires to the right lengths. This is by far the hardest part. Fist cut the wires to an approximate length, leaving slightly longer than you'll require. Hold the wires up to the connector as you think they should look. Use the comb as a straight edge and draw a line on the wires, both top and bottom set of wires. Leave the 3-4 mm extra required for the pins and cut. Then finish crimping and sleeving. You absolutely need to make sure you crimp the pin in the correct position. Having to twist the wire now to push in the connector will absolutely destroy your capabilities to train the wire. Finish shrinkless sleeving this end. After you are done all the wires remove the comb. If your wires are all the right lengths and the sleeve tight, training the wires will be an absolute joke. By having the wires the right lengths, no other wire is pushing against each other.
> 
> Hope that helps.


Thanks, that really helps.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Also outside of Icemodz anyone know where to get mdpc x allready custom sleeved cables from. I'm in America btw


Mod One

Here is my take on a cable comb. Print 2 of them and you screw them together. Designed to be removable or screw them down to the motherboard tray to hold cables in place. If I can print the piece properly and they work good, I'll be designing 24-pin, 8-pin, and an 8+6pin. They'll be uploaded to Thingiverse for people to print for free.

http://hostthenpost.org


----------



## lowfat

I've designed a 6-wire, 8-wire, 14-wire, 18-wire, 24-wire, and a 32-wire removable / mountable comb. Increased thickness slightly on the design above to make them more rigid. The designs are free however they can't be sold.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2019680


----------



## msd0

Looks good. I don't have a 3D printer, but might make a couple sets with our milling machine at work.


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Mod One
> 
> Here is my take on a cable comb. Print 2 of them and you screw them together. Designed to be removable or screw them down to the motherboard tray to hold cables in place. If I can print the piece properly and they work good, I'll be designing 24-pin, 8-pin, and an 8+6pin. They'll be uploaded to Thingiverse for people to print for free.
> 
> http://hostthenpost.org


Screw them? How about putting some small neodymium magnets where they meet?


----------



## kgtuning

I need a 3d printer to make this type of stuff!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geort45*
> 
> Screw them? How about putting some small neodymium magnets where they meet?


Magnets won't have the power to hold them together. There is quite a bit of pressure put on them since cables are in there very tight.

I've probably printed at least 30 cable management pieces over the last 3 weeks. Improving on my designs as well as figuring out what the printer can and can't do. This is my current design for an 8-pin motherboard tray pass-through.
http://hostthenpost.org


----------



## msd0

I bet you could use magnets to mount the combs to the case. If the magnets were recessed slightly, you wouldn't have to worry about scratching the paint.


----------



## SHNS0

What if the case is aluminium though? That's discrimination against Lian Li users!









No but seriously I also approve scewing it in. If you have nice screws it looks really good too.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> What if the case is aluminium though? That's discrimination against Lian Li users!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> No but seriously I also approve scewing it in. If you have nice screws it looks really good too.


Lol, good point. Some nice stainless socket head cap screws would look good


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Lol, good point. Some nice stainless socket head cap screws would look good


Agree, I'm full with stainless steel screws here. Not magnetic so they're a pain, but holy hell they look glorious.
And they're cheap too.
I've lost count of the modders in the community spending countless money and hours on builds... Then presenting them with absolutely unwatchable, trash-looking screws. It's like they only care about the paintjob and watercooling.


----------



## lowfat

MDPC-X screws and rivets are generally all I use. The best black coating I've seen on a screw and low profile.


----------



## SHNS0

Wait until i ditch stainless steel for titanium ones


----------



## lowfat

The final iteration of the combs I've made for my current case mod. Ended up going w/ one piece combs as the seperate piece combs had too much flex to them. Would have been awesome cut from aluminum. But plastic just didn't work.

http://hostthenpost.org

http://hostthenpost.org

http://hostthenpost.org


----------



## korruptedkaos

ive been making custom combs too lately....



the idea is to put them near 6+8pin or 6+6 or even over 24 pin. i have some for open combs to ive been playing with also.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> ive been making custom combs too lately....
> 
> the idea is to put them near 6+8pin or 6+6 or even over 24 pin. i have some for open combs to ive been playing with also.


Looks good.


----------



## Mega Man

I acutally like that comb.... jewelry for my pc....


----------



## lowfat

Using 8 different colours in my current build. All MDPC-X. Diamond Red, Riviera Blue, Perfect Pink, Grand Bleu, XXX, B Magic, Ranger Green, Color X.

http://hostthenpost.org


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Using 8 different colours in my current build. All MDPC-X. Diamond Red, Riviera Blue, Perfect Pink, Grand Bleu, XXX, B Magic, Ranger Green, Color X.
> 
> http://hostthenpost.org


and I thought 3 colors was adventurous lol


----------



## GamersCare

What cable comb is that?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GamersCare*
> 
> What cable comb is that?


Mine? Just some ugly one I designed and 3d printed. I broke all the acrylic ones I had so I made ones that are better suited when used as a tool. They are thicker and made of PETG. So pretty much unbreakable.


----------



## GamersCare

I like that they're skinny and have a flat top.

You don't sell them by chance or know where something similar is available?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Mine? Just some ugly one I designed and 3d printed. I broke all the acrylic ones I had so I made ones that are better suited when used as a tool. They are thicker and made of PETG. So pretty much unbreakable.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GamersCare*
> 
> I like that they're skinny and have a flat top.
> 
> You don't sell them by chance or know where something similar is available?


Don't sell them. They aren't really skinny. At least twice the thickness of standard acrylic combs.

A couple of pics of the 3d printed mounted combs / pass-through brackets in action.

http://hostthenpost.org

http://hostthenpost.org


----------



## GamersCare

Yeah I don't know what I was seeing. A lot thicker looking than I thought in those photos. Do you where to get skinny combs with a flat top?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Don't sell them. They aren't really skinny. At least twice the thickness of standard acrylic combs.
> 
> A couple of pics of the 3d printed mounted combs / pass-through brackets in action.
> 
> http://hostthenpost.org
> 
> http://hostthenpost.org


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GamersCare*
> 
> I like that they're skinny and have a flat top.
> 
> You don't sell them by chance or know where something similar is available?
> 
> 
> 
> Don't sell them. They aren't really skinny. At least twice the thickness of standard acrylic combs.
> 
> A couple of pics of the 3d printed mounted combs / pass-through brackets in action.
> 
> http://hostthenpost.org
> 
> http://hostthenpost.org
Click to expand...

Those look incredible!







If there is any way you could align the direction of the slots in the screw heads to run in the same direction (inline with the length of the comb), it would look even better (it's those pesky little details that can get you every time). Black screw heads might look even better yet.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Don't sell them. They aren't really skinny. At least twice the thickness of standard acrylic combs.
> 
> A couple of pics of the 3d printed mounted combs / pass-through brackets in action.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://hostthenpost.org
> 
> http://hostthenpost.org


Yes sir, That looks awesome. Beautiful work.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Those look incredible!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If there is any way you could align the direction of the slots in the screw heads to run in the same direction (inline with the length of the comb), it would look even better (it's those pesky little details that can get you every time). Black screw heads might look even better yet.


Not really possible to get the screw heads to lineup. If I could buy other styles locally I would. They will however be painted black when I take the case apart to paint it.


----------



## Mega Man

just make a cover that covers both screw and top of it. then you can sand the top to uniformity


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> just make a cover that covers both screw and top of it. then you can sand the top to uniformity


Would have been a good idea but I would have to redesign all the brackets, not to mention route the wires through the system again. The holes are exactly the size needed to fit the screw heads. Less than 0.1mm space. I am using a 0.5mm nozzle, so anything smaller than that I can't do.

Will steal the idea for the next system for sure though.


----------



## Mega Man

yay hindsight !

i will soon be using my own CNC ( one of the prebuilt kits )

there has to be someone selling sthe same for 3d printers, for those of us who dont want these gimmicky 3d printers

edit, yep there is, and cheaper then my cnc kit too !~ but i dont seem to like any........................... there has to be a way to do what i want, without purchasing this ....... or something like it

https://formlabs.com/store/us/form-2/buy-printer/


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Those look incredible!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If there is any way you could align the direction of the slots in the screw heads to run in the same direction (inline with the length of the comb), it would look even better (it's those pesky little details that can get you every time). Black screw heads might look even better yet.
> 
> 
> 
> Not really possible to get the screw heads to lineup. If I could buy other styles locally I would. They will however be painted black when I take the case apart to paint it.
Click to expand...

What kind of screws are you using?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> What kind of screws are you using?


M4's from Fastenal. If I wanted black screws I'd need to order an a package, which would be around $50-$60. Not sure I want black screws that much.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> What kind of screws are you using?
> 
> 
> 
> M4's from Fastenal. If I wanted black screws I'd need to order an a package, which would be around $50-$60. Not sure I want black screws that much.
Click to expand...

M4 by how long? Are they sheet metal screws or machine thread? Do they need to be a certain metal? How many do you need?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> M4 by how long? Are they sheet metal screws or machine thread? Do they need to be a certain metal? How many do you need?


M4x0.7 x 16mm cheese head machine screw. Heads can't be larger than 3mm in diameter or 1.5mm deep. I am using 20 of them.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> M4 by how long? Are they sheet metal screws or machine thread? Do they need to be a certain metal? How many do you need?
> 
> 
> 
> M4x0.7 x 16mm cheese head machine screw. Heads can't be larger than 3mm in diameter or 1.5mm deep. I am using 20 of them.
Click to expand...

Can you redesign the combs for less expensive screws?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Can you redesign the combs for less expensive screws?


They were the only ones I could buy locally. So that is what I designed the combs around. Could easily change the design. However that is 60 hours of printing, plus painting, plus the tedious work of having to do the cable management over. If I was trying to win mod of the year or whatever I'd probably do it over. But this is just a server where I'm testing ideas. So I'll just adjust the designs for my next build.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Can you redesign the combs for less expensive screws?
> 
> 
> 
> They were the only ones I could buy locally. So that is what I designed the combs around. Could easily change the design. However that is 60 hours of printing, plus painting, plus the tedious work of having to do the cable management over. If I was trying to win mod of the year or whatever I'd probably do it over. But this is just a server where I'm testing ideas. So I'll just adjust the designs for my next build.
Click to expand...

OK, I get it. Still, you should be able to back out your screws up to a quarter turn to get them to align up. If you are concerned about them not being tight enough to keep them from backing out over time, you can always use some purple Loctite on them (blue will also work but removing the screws later will be a bit harder).

I live in a megalopolis (there are probably around two million people in Phoenix and its suburbs) and I still have to order most of the hardware I use. I frequently have to design things around hardware I order, mostly from McMaster.com.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> They were the only ones I could buy locally. So that is what I designed the combs around. Could easily change the design. However that is 60 hours of printing, plus painting, plus the tedious work of having to do the cable management over. If I was trying to win mod of the year or whatever I'd probably do it over. But this is just a server where I'm testing ideas. So I'll just adjust the designs for my next build.


How about these screws? Would they work for you?
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/metal-round-head-machine-hex-screw-m4x16-10pcs-set.html


----------



## korruptedkaos

lowfat.....if you was in europe i know a really cheap bolt supplier...some nice black hex csk would look nice but if they work with what you have...who really cares right


----------



## msd0

The fact that you guys are geeking out over fasteners is what makes this forum so awesome. Most people overlook all the little details like that.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> The fact that you guys are geeking out over fasteners is what makes this forum so awesome. Most people overlook all the little details like that.


The Divil is in the details! It's the details that can make or break any project.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> The Divil is in the details! It's the details that can make or break any project.


Probably why it takes some of us a very long time to "finish" a build.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> The Divil is in the details! It's the details that can make or break any project.
> 
> 
> 
> Probably why it takes some of us a very long time to "finish" a build.
Click to expand...

With me, it's that plus old age, I keep changing my mind or I do things over because I didn't like how I did them the first time, and life keeps getting in the way.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> With me, it's that plus old age, I keep changing my mind or I do things over because I didn't like how I did them the first time, and life keeps getting in the way.


oh my lord.. I hear you, Im the same way. Indecisive and perfectionist lol but I can never achieve what I want.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> With me, it's that plus old age, I keep changing my mind or I do things over because I didn't like how I did them the first time, and life keeps getting in the way.
> 
> 
> 
> oh my lord.. I hear you, Im the same way. Indecisive and perfectionist lol but I can never achieve what I want.
Click to expand...

I manage to finish my projects (eventually) although it's now becoming a race whether I will finish something or die first.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> I manage to finish my projects (eventually) although it's now becoming a race whether I will finish something or die first.


lol my cooling loop is probably the bane of existence. I'm never happy.


----------



## Avant Garde

Guys, lame question : Paracord or Pet sleeve?


----------



## GamersCare

For short extensions, long modular cables, or sleeving non modular PSU?
I think for sleeving a non modular cable paracord is fine. Everything else I'm finding that I highly prefer plastic. It's much easier to get the right length and it's a tighter better looking fit. Paracord you have to stretch it a ton to make it look form fitting and slide through cable combs. Paracord is cheaper, comes in tons of colors and is easier to fully hide colored wires.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avant Garde*
> 
> Guys, lame question : Paracord or Pet sleeve?


----------



## Avant Garde

I would use them for modular PSU EVGA G3 Supernova, either long or short CPU 8pin, MoBo 24pin and those for EVGA GTX1080 FTW


----------



## GamersCare

Anyone know where I can get cable combs like these with a flat top?


----------



## korruptedkaos

anyone know if mdpc-x slim is 3mm or 4mm sleeving! i have some mdpc from years ago & its 4mm. but has this new stuff changed in size as its just not telling me anything on the size anywhere


----------



## colinreay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> anyone know if mdpc-x slim is 3mm or 4mm sleeving! i have some mdpc from years ago & its 4mm. but has this new stuff changed in size as its just not telling me anything on the size anywhere


I don't think the sleeving diameter is widely advertised for MDPC-X, because the expansion range is so large. I haven't worked with the old MDPC(X), but the new stuff can expand much further than any other sleeve that I've tried (mainly 4mm sleeve like Teleois and UPC Aegis). I've even seen a site label the new MDPC-X as 6mm, while others have listed it as 4mm.

Personally, I would treat MDPC-X as a 4mm sleeve, but just keep in mind that it will be able to expand and fit over much larger diameter wires (and small connectors) compared to the other 4mm sleeving options on the market.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colinreay*
> 
> I don't think the sleeving diameter is widely advertised for MDPC-X, because the expansion range is so large. I haven't worked with the old MDPC(X), but the new stuff can expand much further than any other sleeve that I've tried (mainly 4mm sleeve like Teleois and UPC Aegis). I've even seen a site label the new MDPC-X as 6mm, while others have listed it as 4mm.
> 
> Personally, I would treat MDPC-X as a 4mm sleeve, but just keep in mind that it will be able to expand and fit over much larger diameter wires (and small connectors) compared to the other 4mm sleeving options on the market.


figured it was classed as 4mm, thx mate


----------



## Alan1187

So I was measuring up my wire to get an idea of how much sleeving to order (the feet sure do build up fast...), when I discovered my PSU uses these.



How are people tackling these? Are they just nixing the 2nd part of the 6+2 in favor of a single 8 and just running 2 cables from the PSU? Or another thought would be making the end piece into a potential splitter and crafting two "extensions" from the spliter to fill my GPU needs.


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alan1187*
> 
> So I was measuring up my wire to get an idea of how much sleeving to order (the feet sure do build up fast...), when I discovered my PSU uses these.
> 
> 
> 
> How are people tackling these? Are they just nixing the 2nd part of the 6+2 in favor of a single 8 and just running 2 cables from the PSU? Or another thought would be making the end piece into a potential splitter and crafting two "extensions" from the spliter to fill my GPU needs.


I usually never use those cables, nor make similar ones. Sleeving or making 2 direct 8-pins to the PSU is just much easier and cleaner.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> figured it was classed as 4mm, thx mate


MDPC-X small sleeve is around 5-6mm, they advertise as 6. But it can expand and shrink very very well.


----------



## colinreay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> I usually never use those cables, nor make similar ones. Sleeving or making 2 direct 8-pins to the PSU is just much easier and cleaner.
> MDPC-X small sleeve is around 5-6mm, they advertise as 6. But it can expand and shrink very very well.


Yeah MDPC-X is weird in that way, where it can be just as tight as 4mm sleeve, but go way bigger. I would go so far as to say you can't really label it, as it will work as well as 4mm sleeve, but way better than other 6mm PET sleeves from China/Moddiy


----------



## msd0

I've only used the
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colinreay*
> 
> Yeah MDPC-X is weird in that way, where it can be just as tight as 4mm sleeve, but go way bigger. I would go so far as to say you can't really label it, as it will work as well as 4mm sleeve, but way better than other 6mm PET sleeves from China/Moddiy


I usually get the Teleios sleeving from mainframe customs. Do you know how it compares to MDPC-X?


----------



## colinreay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> I've only used the
> I usually get the Teleios sleeving from mainframe customs. Do you know how it compares to MDPC-X?


From what I've found, Teleios is great because it has a much smaller and denser weave than MDPC-X. This can be a blessing and a curse though. On the bright side, the tight weave makes it a bit easier IMO to make the sleeve really tight on wires - you still have to stretch it out, but not nearly as much as MDPC-X. However, Teleios can't expand that much which can turn into a bit of a problem, and make it hard to sleeve over double wire solder joints. Other than that though, it's a great sleeve without any doubt.

One last thing about Teleios - you'll have to use a lot more than you think for thicker wires. I used UL1015 18AWG which has an OD of around 2.7mm, which is closer to the max expandability of the Teleios sleeve. You can do it easily, but since the sleeve is much closer to full expansion, you'll have to use a length of Teleios longer than the wire itself. For example, when I did my EVGA G2 cable(s), I had to measure the sleeve from the edge of one terminal to a little past the edge of the other (instead of from the middle of the wire crimp to the opposite wire crimp.) Same deal with paracord and Aegis, you'll lose some of that horizontal length due to the sleeve nearing expansion limits.

MDPC-X is a whole different story. I didn't mention Teleios colors up above because I feel MDPC-X handily beats it. Don't get me wrong Teleios does have several nice colors, but the both the vast selection and vibrancy of MDPC-X colors really stands out when compared to Teleios. The weave is much less dense than Teleios, but can be stretched out to be as tight on wires as any other 4mm sleeve. However once on the wire, you can still see that MDPC-X is less dense (it still covers the wire, but the strands seem thicker and the places where the strands overlap/cross are spread apart farther than Teleios.) Check out this

__
http://instagr.am/p/BPmNaFKAPiA%2F/
 of a MDPC-X 24 Pin by Mod-One. The stranding really stands out here, and it'll really come down to user preference if they like the look, or prefer the denser Teleios/Aegis sleeving.

Where MDPC-X really shines is its superior expandability rate. Nothing else on the market can do what MDPC-X does - at least that I've found. Hell, MDPC-X expands close to some of the SATA sleeving I've seen! Getting over solder joints is incredibly easy, and for small things like fan connectors, you may be able to fit the sleeve over without depinning anything. This does mean you have to pull the sleeve tighter than Teleios over wire, which isn't a problem if you've been sleeving for awhile, but for a beginner, it can be hard to get the sleeve super stretched out.

Bottom line: From now on, I'm probably either going to use MDPC-X for higher end projects, or Paracord just because it is so affordable. Now that Mod-One sells MDPC-X, there isn't a ton of extra cost compared to UPC's Aegis or Teleios, which makes an easy choice for me.


----------



## msd0

Thanks colinreay, I'm going to get a sample pack of MDPC-X. They have so many colors it's hard to choose. I'll have to see how it looks when stretched over UL1007 18AWG. I believe the OD is ~2mm. With Teleios, I can stretch the sleeve about 1", which makes the cable really stiff and easy to train.


----------



## colinreay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Thanks colinreay, I'm going to get a sample pack of MDPC-X. They have so many colors it's hard to choose. I'll have to see how it looks when stretched over UL1007 18AWG. I believe the OD is ~2mm. With Teleios, I can stretch the sleeve about 1", which makes the cable really stiff and easy to train.


No problem man! With MDPC-X, it'll definitely be harder to get it to be taught over the sleeve, but with a little time and patience you'll be fine!


----------



## emsj86

Looking for some pictures or ideas for a black, white and chrome color scheme. Also some places to buy these cable extensions. Preferably longer than 30cm as I have a case labs case


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> I've only used the
> I usually get the Teleios sleeving from mainframe customs. Do you know how it compares to MDPC-X?


Teleios is imported, quality is good and it's easier to use for beginners but not a big fan of it because of the price. MDPC-X is home produced 100% to custom specifications and on a whole other level. They also have a much more interesting color range imho.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Looking for some pictures or ideas for a black, white and chrome color scheme. Also some places to buy these cable extensions. Preferably longer than 30cm as I have a case labs case


You can use this tool to experiment a bit with different color schemes:
https://choosemypc.net/sleeving/
Just keep in mind that you'll be limited in the end by the avaiable range of colors.
You can also check my fb page in my sig for some inspiration








In the US Mod-One makes great extensions with MDPC-X sleeve


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Teleios is imported, quality is good and it's easier to use for beginners but not a big fan of it because of the price. MDPC-X is home produced 100% to custom specifications and on a whole other level. They also have a much more interesting color range imho.


Price? Teleios is priced at $6.50 per 25 feet ... MDPC-X is priced at $6.99 per 25 feet.

You can pick up a sample for either ...
- https://mainframecustom.com/shop/cable-sleeving/lc-teleios-sleeve/teleios-sample-pack/ $2.50
- https://mod-one.com/mdpc-sample-pack/ $3.99
- https://modguru.net/product/sleeve-sample-pack/ $1.00 <--- I think they have the best fluro-green


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Price? Teleios is priced at $6.50 per 25 feet ... MDPC-X is priced at $6.99 per 25 feet.
> 
> You can pick up a sample for either ...
> - https://mainframecustom.com/shop/cable-sleeving/lc-teleios-sleeve/teleios-sample-pack/ $2.50
> - https://mod-one.com/mdpc-sample-pack/ $3.99
> - https://modguru.net/product/sleeve-sample-pack/ $1.00 <--- I think they have the best fluro-green


Now don't let me get into this too much. It wouldn't be nice also because my point really isn't bashing someone. But I'll just share a few hints.

MDPC-X is made in Germany by the owner's family production facility with their own heavy machinery - they use high quality PET, custom diameter, custom braiding density, and develop their own color ranges. Their MDPC-X line is 100% custom tailored for the modding community since its very beginning, and it's a brand that literally wrote a huge chapter in the history of modding all by itself.

Teleios is.... Well, simply put, they buy it in China from a catalog and slap a fancy name and a huge markup on it.
Is it still high quality material? Yes. Is Mainframe Customs a great, reputable shop? Absolutely yes.
Do I agree with them reselling chinese-imported catalogue sleeve at the same price of the home-made in Germany one just because you placed a fancy name on it? No, that's ridiculous


----------



## Erick Silver

I'm hoping to go with the following here as soon as I am able to upgrade to Ryzen.


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> I'm hoping to go with the following here as soon as I am able to upgrade to Ryzen.


Color scheme is very similar to a set I made a few weeks ago





MDPC-X Shade 19, Platinum Grey, Italian Red.
Turned out delicious


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Color scheme is very similar to a set I made a few weeks ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MDPC-X Shade 19, Platinum Grey, Italian Red.
> Turned out delicious


Thanks! I like that color combo!


----------



## leeiiiwill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> I'm hoping to go with the following here as soon as I am able to upgrade to Ryzen.


Actually did something similar to this over the weekend. My first time sleeving cable's at all. I did the heatshrinkless method with 16GA wire and MDPC-x Diamond/TItanium Grey. I've got the pictures hosted on Imgur.



http://imgur.com/4Ur1g


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Color scheme is very similar to a set I made a few weeks ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MDPC-X Shade 19, Platinum Grey, Italian Red.
> Turned out delicious


That is very nice! I'm planning on a similar color scheme coming up soon.


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leeiiiwill*
> 
> Actually did something similar to this over the weekend. My first time sleeving cable's at all. I did the heatshrinkless method with 16GA wire and MDPC-x Diamond/TItanium Grey. I've got the pictures hosted on Imgur.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/4Ur1g


That's a pretty good job!!! You really can't go wrong with their reds and greys







all the combinations just look so wonderful


----------



## havoc315

Personally I think mainframes pet cable is good for power supply but I would only use it in a higher in build because of cost but honestly I prefer using paracord and using Mainframe custom 16 gauge wire it's perfect it's the same size as a normal 18 gauge wire they did it by lessening the outer insulation but it makes it far easier to train I also love there paracord they have, now that being said I would definitely use mdpc for all other purposes as in fan sleeving and things like that, I have 50ft of the shade 19 and I'm patiently waiting for the new arrival of there carbon...its a mixture of there platinum and shade 19 if im not mistaken, I'm assuming it will look similar to mainframes 
These are what I have most of right here but I'm going to be ordering some of all of those colors for future sleeves
Plus have 100ft of black


----------



## Revan654

I used both Teleios & MDPC-X. MDPC-X is so much easier to work with. Teleios is tighter sleeving, I had a few issues threading the wire through it.

MDPC-X - PSU Cables & Front Panel.
DarkSide - Fan & USB.


----------



## Revan654

My First attempt at a PWM fan cable. I think it turned out pretty good.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> My First attempt at a PWM fan cable. I think it turned out pretty good.


As long as it works, I would say you are right.


----------



## fast_fate

short extension for a quick re-build - *Paragon* -


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> As long as it works, I would say you are right.


It works. It just a pain keep having to buy some much different type of wire for different connection.

USB 2.0 - 26 AWG
PWM Fans - 22 AWG
PSU ATX - 16 AWG


----------



## havoc315

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> It works. It just a pain keep having to buy some much different type of wire for different connection.
> 
> USB 2.0 - 26 AWG
> PWM Fans - 22 AWG
> PSU ATX - 16 AWG


Not for me really i just use a special 16awg cable from ensourced, thats the size of 18awg just a little light on the insulation which makes it perfect for what i need it for and you get 16awg in a 18awg size







and then i have 22awg for power wire and for just a few things like LEDs, Aquaero ect. and the rest i run in 24awg unless i have to crimp more than one wire inside the connector....i try to just use the same size if i can unless i absolutely have to use a different size it really just depends on what you are wanting to run though because its all about the amps that the cable can handle.
Cable is so cheap really that its not so bad having 3-5 different sizes really, and the cord is soooo much cheaper too, like i said previously i like the paracord for my main PSU cables and everything else i use MDPC-X, although i will sometimes use the teleios for PSU because it is a tighter weave and with that special made 16awg wire with a sleeving threader it makes life so much easier especially when having to sleeve a lot of cables but i want my system to look amazing, right down to the finest cable


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc315*
> 
> Not for me really i just use a special 16awg cable from ensourced, thats the size of 18awg just a little light on the insulation which makes it perfect for what i need it for and you get 16awg in a 18awg size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then i have 22awg for power wire and for just a few things like LEDs, Aquaero ect. and the rest i run in 24awg unless i have to crimp more than one wire inside the connector....i try to just use the same size if i can unless i absolutely have to use a different size it really just depends on what you are wanting to run though because its all about the amps that the cable can handle.
> Cable is so cheap really that its not so bad having 3-5 different sizes really, and the cord is soooo much cheaper too, like i said previously i like the paracord for my main PSU cables and everything else i use MDPC-X, although i will sometimes use the teleios for PSU because it is a tighter weave and with that special made 16awg wire with a sleeving threader it makes life so much easier especially when having to sleeve a lot of cables but i want my system to look amazing, right down to the finest cable


Ensourced overcharges for their items, Some of their connectors are double the price. Second their cable is White. Lastly some of the connectors I have requires the smaller Wiring due to size of the connector holes. Mainly the Dupont terminals.


----------



## Craigk19

I've resleeved a 24pin in the past but that was easy just remove pin, sleeve put back in done. I'm now attempting to build my cables from scratch. I did a test extension with some MDPC-X and with a male and female PCIE connectors now that worked out great. Question is the PCIE doesnt seem to be the correct connector on the psu itself. so is it suppose to be EPS Female that goes into the PSU on a Corsair 860i? and a PCIE female for the GPU? Ive looked all over i can find pinouts for the 24 but nothing on which connectors are needed for which part? do i just need to reuse the connectors off the cables im not going to be using anymore. i hope not i kind of wanted to do a complete from scratch on my cables. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Ill be buying it all from MOD-ONE


----------



## havoc315

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Ensourced overcharges for their items, Some of their connectors are double the price. Second their cable is White. Lastly some of the connectors I have requires the smaller Wiring due to size of the connector holes. Mainly the Dupont terminals.


Sorry I was wrong about the wire, I forgot I got that from mainframe, I only use mainframe for connectors, wire and there pet sleeving for most other sleeving other than psu.
Ensourced I use for paracord and there cable combs, so far they have been my favorite. I use the same for my font panel cables too, but only do paracord on single 16awg cables but that's just my personal preference, although I do love the colors the pet gives too just not the look I'm going for right now either for my psu


----------



## havoc315

It's hard to keep track of everything, building an entirely new system so have bought from like 8-9different places
I should have my sleeping here this week so once I do a cable I'll shoot a picture of I'm doing, they should look good


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> I've resleeved a 24pin in the past but that was easy just remove pin, sleeve put back in done. I'm now attempting to build my cables from scratch. I did a test extension with some MDPC-X and with a male and female PCIE connectors now that worked out great. Question is the PCIE doesnt seem to be the correct connector on the psu itself. so is it suppose to be EPS Female that goes into the PSU on a Corsair 860i? and a PCIE female for the GPU? Ive looked all over i can find pinouts for the 24 but nothing on which connectors are needed for which part? do i just need to reuse the connectors off the cables im not going to be using anymore. i hope not i kind of wanted to do a complete from scratch on my cables. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Ill be buying it all from MOD-ONE


http://www.overclock.net/t/1420796/repository-of-power-supply-pin-outs

Might that help you? The PCIE is just a 12v row and a ground row from the looks of it. Should be a 1:1 cable if I'm understanding correctly (please let someone else more knowledgeable confirm before taking my word for it







).


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> I've resleeved a 24pin in the past but that was easy just remove pin, sleeve put back in done. I'm now attempting to build my cables from scratch. I did a test extension with some MDPC-X and with a male and female PCIE connectors now that worked out great. Question is the PCIE doesnt seem to be the correct connector on the psu itself. so is it suppose to be EPS Female that goes into the PSU on a Corsair 860i? and a PCIE female for the GPU? Ive looked all over i can find pinouts for the 24 but nothing on which connectors are needed for which part? do i just need to reuse the connectors off the cables im not going to be using anymore. i hope not i kind of wanted to do a complete from scratch on my cables. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Ill be buying it all from MOD-ONE


If this is this is your PSU then all your 2x4 cables should have 2x4 pin EPS - not PCIE - connectors for the PSU outlets. The thing to check is the outer shapes of the row of pins opposite the lug, EPS are SQU-RND-RND-SQU while PCIE are SQU-RND-RND-RND.


----------



## Craigk19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> If this is this is your PSU then all your 2x4 cables should have 2x4 pin EPS - not PCIE - connectors for the PSU outlets. The thing to check is the outer shapes of the row of pins opposite the lug, EPS are SQU-RND-RND-SQU while PCIE are SQU-RND-RND-RND.


That is my PSU, so they are EPS then. Glad to know I'm not crazy. They aren't a 1:1 though. Guess I need to cut one up to see what's going on in there.may I ask why you called them 2x4 instead of 8pins?


----------



## Himo5

These AX Corsair PSUs are derived from the Seasonic X range and the cable sets that come with them have very similar pinouts to the Seasonic KM3 cable set.

The thing to bear in mind about this is that originally the KM2 pinout on the PCIE/EPS outlets had 4 Ground pins opposite the lug and 4 12V pins adjacent to it, which is the pinout of an EPS socket on the motherboard, whereas the KM3 pinout on the PCIE/EPS outlet had the Ground pins adjacent to the lug and the 12V pins opposite to it, which is the pinout on a 4x2 GPU socket.

With all the other cables in a KM3 set being the same as a KM2 set you can imagine the potential for disaster if anyone mixed their cable sets up!

As a result of this a KM3 type cable set has the two sets of 4 pins on an EPS cable crossing over the lugs from the motherboard to the PSU, which is what makes them so difficult to sleeve individually. *However, you need to make sure this didn't happen on the Corsir AX, which would mean the EPS cable was 1x1 and the PCIE cable crossed the lugs.*

As far as 4x2 PCIE cables are concerned the pin in the last RND nozzle opposite the lug at the GPU - which is not present in a 6x2 PCIE cable - is a Ground wire, unlike the other pins opposite the lug, which comes from a double wire connected to one of the 4 Ground pins adjacent to the lug at the PSU, where one of the 12V lines is not connected.

One way of dealing with this is to have the unconnected 12V line at the PSU above the double Ground wire and cut the dividing wall at the connector into a dividing hinge instead to hide the double wiring.


----------



## Craigk19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> These AX Corsair PSUs are derived from the Seasonic X range and the cable sets that come with them have very similar pinouts to the Seasonic KM3 cable set.
> 
> The thing to bear in mind about this is that originally the KM2 pinout on the PCIE/EPS outlets had 4 Ground pins opposite the lug and 4 12V pins adjacent to it, which is the pinout of an EPS socket on the motherboard, whereas the KM3 pinout on the PCIE/EPS outlet had the Ground pins adjacent to the lug and the 12V pins opposite to it, which is the pinout on a 4x2 GPU socket.
> 
> With all the other cables in a KM3 set being the same as a KM2 set you can imagine the potential for disaster if anyone mixed their cable sets up!
> 
> As a result of this a KM3 type cable set has the two sets of 4 pins on an EPS cable crossing over the lugs from the motherboard to the PSU, which is what makes them so difficult to sleeve individually. *However, you need to make sure this didn't happen on the Corsir AX, which would mean the EPS cable was 1x1 and the PCIE cable crossed the lugs.*
> 
> As far as 4x2 PCIE cables are concerned the pin in the last RND nozzle opposite the lug at the GPU - which is not present in a 6x2 PCIE cable - is a Ground wire, unlike the other pins opposite the lug, which comes from a double wire connected to one of the 4 Ground pins adjacent to the lug at the PSU, where one of the 12V lines is not connected.
> 
> One way of dealing with this is to have the unconnected 12V line at the PSU above the double Ground wire and cut the dividing wall at the connector into a dividing hinge instead to hide the double wiring.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


o man this might be more than i thought it was going to be







ill have to look when i get home to see if there is a double wire going in to the EPS that goes in to the PSU if there is that wont be a problem ill just make it a single and then do a double in the back of the case. thought this was going to be as easy as the 24 pin







nothing ever has easy as it should be haha


----------



## Himo5

As I implied in my edit, my example is set on a Seasonic KM3 PSU which has the EPS crossed and the PCIE 1x1 but looking at your Corsair I suspect it has the EPS cable at 1x1 and the PCIE across the lugs. You should be able to trace which of the two cables in your set have wires going from adjacent to the lug to opposite and which one goes adjacent to adjacent. If your EPS is 1x1 then my double wire example for the PSU outlet for the PCIE cable should have the double wire in the nozzle opposite the lug, instead of adjacent to it, with the connector crimped the other way up.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Hey guys, I've got some sleeving I need to do in order to finish up a build. What molex/ATX pin remover would you guys suggest? I know there is the staple method but that hurts my hand after awhile.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey guys, I've got some sleeving I need to do in order to finish up a build. What molex/ATX pin remover would you guys suggest? I know there is the staple method but that hurts my hand after awhile.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


I use these, or you could get the original molex brand from Allied. You may want to get 2, putting a sleeving job on hold because you broke the extractor is annoying. The molex brand is the best, but the mainframe is pretty good and half the price. Avoid the lamptron type kits, they'll just break after a few pins and don't work very well anyways.


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question:

If I create a Y Cable (Soldered) using 16 AWG wire. Is their any issue if I put Sata connection at one end & molex connector at the other end?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey guys, I've got some sleeving I need to do in order to finish up a build. What molex/ATX pin remover would you guys suggest? I know there is the staple method but that hurts my hand after awhile.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> I use these, or you could get the original molex brand from Allied. You may want to get 2, putting a sleeving job on hold because you broke the extractor is annoying. The molex brand is the best, but the mainframe is pretty good and half the price. Avoid the lamptron type kits, they'll just break after a few pins and don't work very well anyways.
Click to expand...

I'm just doing a few cables, not a whole PSU







will probably go with the molex one though! Now what about a pin remover for the round molex pins? Or does that tool you linked to (the official one from Molex) also work with the round pins?

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey guys, I've got some sleeving I need to do in order to finish up a build. What molex/ATX pin remover would you guys suggest? I know there is the staple method but that hurts my hand after awhile.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> I use these, or you could get the original molex brand from Allied. You may want to get 2, putting a sleeving job on hold because you broke the extractor is annoying. The molex brand is the best, but the mainframe is pretty good and half the price. Avoid the lamptron type kits, they'll just break after a few pins and don't work very well anyways.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm just doing a few cables, not a whole PSU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will probably go with the molex one though! Now what about a pin remover for the round molex pins? Or does that tool you linked to (the official one from Molex) also work with the round pins?
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

You would need a different tool for those. I just used the one that came with the lamptron kit. Was the only actually useful one of the bunch, but it doesn't work very well either. I mostly just made new cables for everything so I didn't need to use it much for my build.

edit:

Found the molex brand tools for it. Bit expensive but you would need male and female tools. Or get a combo unit like this if you only have a few to do.


----------



## Revan654

1. Connect G2 Connector Type A
2. Connect G2 and RGB Crimp Pin ( Terminal ) Type B
3. Connect G2 Crimp Pin ( Terminal ) Type A
4. Connect G2 Connector Type B - Black

Anyone know where to find these connectors & terminals. Their used to create custom cables for Darkside lighting. I have attached photos for reference. Dazmode doesn't seem to want to re-stock the items. I was wondering if anyone knew of any other stores that sell these.


----------



## Himo5

The bottom image is a terminal used in an XH JST connector, which are usually available on Ebay. I don't know the other 3, but if you are really stuck you could have look through the JST catalogue.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Connect G2 Connector Type A
> 2. Connect G2 and RGB Crimp Pin ( Terminal ) Type B
> 3. Connect G2 Crimp Pin ( Terminal ) Type A
> 4. Connect G2 Connector Type B - Black
> 
> Anyone know where to find these connectors & terminals. Their used to create custom cables for Darkside lighting. I have attached photos for reference. Dazmode doesn't seem to want to re-stock the items. I was wondering if anyone knew of any other stores that sell these.


Highflownl has them listed but not in stock, try sending them an email to ask for an ETA.

https://www.highflow.nl/modding/connectors/darkside-connect-g2-connector-type-a-black.html
https://www.highflow.nl/modding/connectors/darkside-connect-g2-and-rgb-crimp-pin-terminal-type-b.html
https://www.highflow.nl/modding/connectors/darkside-connect-g2-crimp-pin-terminal-type-a.html
https://www.highflow.nl/modding/connectors/darkside-connect-g2-connector-type-b-black.html


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Highflownl has them listed but not in stock, try sending them an email to ask for an ETA.
> 
> https://www.highflow.nl/modding/connectors/darkside-connect-g2-connector-type-a-black.html
> https://www.highflow.nl/modding/connectors/darkside-connect-g2-and-rgb-crimp-pin-terminal-type-b.html
> https://www.highflow.nl/modding/connectors/darkside-connect-g2-crimp-pin-terminal-type-a.html
> https://www.highflow.nl/modding/connectors/darkside-connect-g2-connector-type-b-black.html


I was the one who got them to add them, they said about a few weeks to a few months. They just don't know right now.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Try modDIY.They are a bity flaky but they have a good selection of connector bodies.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Try modDIY.They are a bity flaky but they have a good selection of connector bodies.


That's the first place I checked, Thankfully Dazmode just re-stocked a small amount & was able to grab everything I needed.


----------



## SHNS0

Just finished a PSU set for a Cooler Master V850, what do you guys think?


----------



## Revan654

I was wondering if anyone could help with few of my questions. I'm guessing it would be fine I want to ask just in case theirs any compatibility issues.

1. I have created a Y cable that has been soldered in the middle. I was wondering if their would be any kind of issues If I have a Molex connector at one end and a Sata connector at the other end? Sata will be powering one of my harddrives & Molex will be powering my Fan controller (AquaComputer).

2. Is their a maximum number of wires That can be solder in a single run? Could I do say 4 cables? PSU Cable -> Soldering Point -> Four wires to Sata or Molex devices.

3. Is their any difference using Silver plated terminals vs gold plated terminals?


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I was wondering if anyone could help with few of my questions. I'm guessing it would be fine I want to ask just in case theirs any compatibility issues.
> 
> 1. I have created a Y cable that has been soldered in the middle. I was wondering if their would be any kind of issues If I have a Molex connector at one end and a Sata connector at the other end? Sata will be powering one of my harddrives & Molex will be powering my Fan controller (AquaComputer).
> 
> 2. Is their a maximum number of wires That can be solder in a single run? Could I do say 4 cables? PSU Cable -> Soldering Point -> Four wires to Sata or Molex devices.
> 
> 3. Is their any difference using Silver plated terminals vs gold plated terminals?


1. Some PSUs used to ship stock with cables like that, it won't be a problem so long as you're reasonable in the power you draw over those.

2. There isn't a limit on how many nodes you can run in a single cable, just how much power you can draw from it.

3. Silver is a better conductor, gold corrodes less.

4. There, their.


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I was wondering if anyone could help with few of my questions. I'm guessing it would be fine I want to ask just in case theirs any compatibility issues.
> 
> 1. I have created a Y cable that has been soldered in the middle. I was wondering if their would be any kind of issues If I have a Molex connector at one end and a Sata connector at the other end? Sata will be powering one of my harddrives & Molex will be powering my Fan controller (AquaComputer).
> 
> 2. Is their a maximum number of wires That can be solder in a single run? Could I do say 4 cables? PSU Cable -> Soldering Point -> Four wires to Sata or Molex devices.
> 
> 3. Is their any difference using Silver plated terminals vs gold plated terminals?


1) Not an issue

2) Depends on the current draw of the devices compared to max safe current that the pin and the main wire can handle

3) The "silver plated terminals" you mean are actually tin plated. Tin is cheap, gold is expensive. The main difference is that gold is more resistant to insertion cycles (aka will degrade less with a lot of plugging and unplugging). Don't stress too much on gold vs tin cause there's also theoretical disadvantages of using together a gold and a tin-plated terminal.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> 1) Not an issue
> 
> 2) Depends on the current draw of the devices compared to max safe current that the pin and the main wire can handle
> 
> 3) The "silver plated terminals" you mean are actually tin plated. Tin is cheap, gold is expensive. The main difference is that gold is more resistant to insertion cycles (aka will degrade less with a lot of plugging and unplugging). Don't stress too much on gold vs tin cause there's also theoretical disadvantages of using together a gold and a tin-plated terminal.


Thanks, I did notice the PSU cables that came with my PSU are all gold plated.


----------



## Craigk19

So I've resleeved my PSU with paracord in the past and was not all that impressed with all the excess length, so I'm upgrading now and did a practice test with Mdpc small extension. Learned alot from the small test, crimping isn't as easy as just crimp it and go. Will be doing full customer length from scratch cables for the new build but I'm happy with the way these came out still


----------



## pez

Liking that color scheme!


----------



## Revan654

Classic MDPC-X Black.


----------



## Craigk19

looking great!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> looking great!


Thanks.


----------



## Revan654

I can't seem to get any replay in the pin layout thread, I might as well ask here too.

Anyone have a diagram of Six Pin layout for PCiE(GPU) to 8 pin (PSU side)(EVGA T2 1600)? I can't seem to find a proper diagram online. It's been awhile since I did a six pin version, I just don't recall where each wire goes & what wire is double crimped.


----------



## Craigk19

do you not have a wire you can dismantle to get the pin out for it?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> do you not have a wire you can dismantle to get the pin out for it?


No, Theirs no six pcie in any of my PSU boxes. The only one I have is the 6+2 version. I can't really see how it's wired since their sleeved & heatshrink is basically superglue to the wires.


----------



## Himo5

The nine 8pin VGA outlets on that PSU have the same SQU-RND-RND-RND configuration as a GPU/PCIE and none of them doubles as an EPS outlet, so it would be perverse for the wires not to be 1x1.

If that is the case, looking at the outlets with the PSU fan on the bottom and the lug of each outlet below the pins, the wires, left to right, top to bottom, would be 12V-12V-12V-Grd/Grd-Grd-Grd-Grd, so the PSU end of a 6pin GPU cable would be 12V-12V-12V-Nil/Grd-Grd-Grd-Nil.

If your EPS cable for that PSU is 1x1, with the wire arrangement above the lug Grd-Grd-Grd-Grd/12V-12V-12V-12V - seeing as the CPUZ outlets have the SQU-RND-RND-SQU configuration of an EPS motherboard socket - that would be an even stronger indication that this was so.

If you have a PSU tester - which anyone building a cable set ought to have - you could make up a 1x1 6pin cable and test it.

If you have a multimeter it would be enough to confirm the arrangement by testing your 6+2 cable.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> The nine 8pin VGA outlets on that PSU have the same SQU-RND-RND-RND configuration as a GPU/PCIE and none of them doubles as an EPS outlet, so it would be perverse for the wires not to be 1x1.
> 
> If that is the case, looking at the outlets with the PSU fan on the bottom and the lug of each outlet below the pins, the wires, left to right, top to bottom, would be 12V-12V-12V-Grd/Grd-Grd-Grd-Grd, so the PSU end of a 6pin GPU cable would be 12V-12V-12V-Nil/Grd-Grd-Grd-Nil.
> 
> If your EPS cable for that PSU is 1x1, with the wire arrangement above the lug Grd-Grd-Grd-Grd/12V-12V-12V-12V - seeing as the CPUZ outlets have the SQU-RND-RND-SQU configuration of an EPS motherboard socket - that would be an even stronger indication that this was so.
> 
> If you have a PSU tester - which anyone building a cable set ought to have - you could make up a 1x1 6pin cable and test it.
> 
> If you have a multimeter it would be enough to confirm the arrangement by testing your 6+2 cable.


I have a older cable from CableMod for P2 series. I'll just use that as a reference(removing the +2 connector & wire). Also icemodz has been helping me. They said none of EVGA GPU cables use double crimp wires. The only cable that uses double crimp wiring is the main ATX cable.


----------



## Revan654

Heatshrink seem a bit thick, This was just a test before I start my Sata & Molex cables. I have much smaller glue versions of heatshrink.


----------



## Revan654

If anyone needs sleeving supplies Mod-One is currently have a 15% of their entire store until May 7th.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> If anyone needs sleeving supplies Mod-One is currently have a 15% of their entire store until May 7th.


Was planning on ordering a batch from Icemodz soon so I appreciate you sharing this. I'll have to check if the international shipping is as lucrative for me though, but I will definitely consider buying from here now.


----------



## Craigk19

Spent $100 bucks even after the 15% discount and just realized I forgot the heatshrink.....


----------



## Jinto

So it's been a good long while since I did my own custom sleeving. Last PSU I had was an older Silverstone Srider 850W which of course had double wires. Just got a new EVGA P2 850W for the new build and it too has double wires (obviously). I was just wondering, has there been any new techniques when it comes to double wires? Mind you, I won't be using extensions as I prefer to make my own wires from scratch that are cut to length. I used the Y-split method before and don't mind doing it again, but I had thought I saw some wire sleeving galleries where a very short bare wire was cross linked to an adjacent terminal or something to that extent. Suffice to say, any new techniques?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinto*
> 
> So it's been a good long while since I did my own custom sleeving. Last PSU I had was an older Silverstone Srider 850W which of course had double wires. Just got a new EVGA P2 850W for the new build and it too has double wires (obviously). I was just wondering, has there been any new techniques when it comes to double wires? Mind you, I won't be using extensions as I prefer to make my own wires from scratch that are cut to length. I used the Y-split method before and don't mind doing it again, but I had thought I saw some wire sleeving galleries where a very short bare wire was cross linked to an adjacent terminal or something to that extent. Suffice to say, any new techniques?


Any of the double wires on the Silverstone PSUs you can just get rid of. If you are going to be crimping your own wires then you can just do a 1:1 of all the cables.


----------



## Jinto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Any of the double wires on the Silverstone PSUs you can just get rid of. If you are going to be crimping your own wires then you can just do a 1:1 of all the cables.


This only applies to extensions correct? I'll be sleeving my new EVGA P2 850W and I'm noticing it has double wires on connectors 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10 and 15 for the 24pin.


----------



## jleslie246

EDIT:

I found everything i need for making cables at mod-one.com. It wasnt around the last time I did sleeving









Question: 16 awg or 18 awg wire for 24 pin mb and 6+8 pin GPU cables?

Thank you


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> I found everything i need for making cables at mod-one.com. It wasnt around the last time I did sleeving
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Question: 16 awg or 18 awg wire for 24 pin mb and 6+8 pin GPU cables?
> 
> Thank you


It's your choice on wire. Both will work without any issues. I personally favor 16 AWG (2.4mm) version.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinto*
> 
> This only applies to extensions correct? I'll be sleeving my new EVGA P2 850W and I'm noticing it has double wires on connectors 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10 and 15 for the 24pin.


Yes, If the default cable has a double wire then a double wire is required. Double wires should only be on 2, 5 & 6.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinto*
> 
> This only applies to extensions correct? I'll be sleeving my new EVGA P2 850W and I'm noticing it has double wires on connectors 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10 and 15 for the 24pin.


Extensions aren't 1:1. 1:1 means wire in pin 1 on the PSU side goes to pin 1 on the motherboard side, pin 2 on the PSU side goes to pin 2 on the motherboard side, etc. On an extension pin 1 goes in to 12, pin 2 goes in to 11, etc. 1:1 makes it significantly easier to wire. I know there are other PSUs besides Silverstone that uses 1:1, but I can't tell you which are.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Yes, If the default cable has a double wire then a double wire is required. Double wires should only be on 2, 5 & 6.


How do you sleeve double wires? Im guessing two wires in one sleeve then split to two with a heat shrink junction?

I just ordered $130 worth of cable making goodies for 2 systems. I might need some help soon


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> How do you sleeve double wires? Im guessing two wires in one sleeve then split to two with a heat shrink junction?
> 
> I just ordered $130 worth of cable making goodies for 2 systems. I might need some help soon


The preferred method is by soldering three wires together. Then running the sleeving to middle & use a small heatshrink. You can double crimp to wires together & get them into one connection port (I have not been able to get 16 AWG into one slot since wiring I use is 2.4mm).

If you don't want to attempt soldering, Ice-modz does sell pre-soldered wiring for ATX cable & GPU cables (If your GPU-PSU has double crimp wire layout).


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> The preferred method is by soldering three wires together. Then running the sleeving to middle & use a small heatshrink. You can double crimp to wires together & get them into one connection port (I have not been able to get 16 AWG into one slot since wiring I use is 2.4mm).
> 
> If you don't want to attempt soldering, Ice-modz does sell pre-soldered wiring for ATX cable & GPU cables (If your GPU-PSU has double crimp wire layout).


I love soldering. I am planning on crimping and soldering every pin









Thanks for the reply, this is how I thought it would look. BTW my PSU is an EVGA 1300 G2 (I know, way overkill on the watts).


----------



## Jinto

Say, does anyone know where I can purchase 2.4mm OD 16awg wire in bulk for the cheapest price? Something like what Mod One sells?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinto*
> 
> Say, does anyone know where I can purchase 2.4mm OD 16awg wire in bulk for the cheapest price? Something like what Mod One sells?


Mouser would be the best bet.

Link: http://www.mouser.com/Wire-Cable/Hook-up-Wire/_/N-5ggs/

If you need allot contact Mod-One, When I needed a item in bulk once they gave me a great discount on wiring. It was something like 2 dollars for every 25 ft or something around there.

Not sure if they will give you the same kind of deal or not. I do allot business with them it could a reason why I got a massive discount on the wiring. It's worth trying & see if they can help you out.

Also you can try Ice-Modz, They sell one meter of wiring for 0.70. Even though it says Black is out of Stock (It's In Stock). They just haven't updated the site yet since they been designed the site.

Link: https://www.icemodz.eu/store/#!/ICE-Z-Perfect-16awg-Wire-1-meter/p/68164757/category=8283417

btw, Ice-modz wiring is copper plated, Mod-One isn't.


----------



## Craigk19

i just got some 16 gauge 2.4mm from mod one and am having a hard time getting the terminals to fit with out trimming some of the inner wires is this normal?


----------



## msd0

I've had the same problem in the past. You probably have the 18-24 AWG terminals that most shops sell. Here's a link for 16 AWG terminals:
Female https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/0039000077/WM3112CT-ND/1643460
Male https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/Molex,-LLC/0039000081/WM1016CT-ND/3028731


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> i just got some 16 gauge 2.4mm from mod one and am having a hard time getting the terminals to fit with out trimming some of the inner wires is this normal?


The terminals Mod-One uses are not really designed for 2.4mm wiring. They need a wider mouth I use terminals from Ice-modz & they work perfectly with 2.4 wiring.

Singularity Computers & the gold plated version from Moddiy will also work. I think their both JMT terminals.

The Mod-One terminals do work just have to curve the wire down a bit down inserting the wire.


----------



## Revan654

The rest of my Sleeving supply has finally arrived. It took forever to clear customs.


----------



## Jinto

You look like you are stock piling for the war!


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinto*
> 
> You look like you are stock piling for the war!


You should've seen the 18kg package I got yesterday lol

Here's a sneak peak for my personal build, custom sleeved Delta 150x50mm. Did also the front panel including USB 3.0 and SATA data's, but don't have pics of those.
Color scheme will be quite interesting: MDPC-X vivid violet, riviera blue, xxx white, purple





And a customer set of silver teflon wire, I absolutely love this stuff


----------



## Jinto

Any significance behind the silver teflon wire other than aesthetics?


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinto*
> 
> Any significance behind the silver teflon wire other than aesthetics?


From a cable making point of view, you can make really good looking cables without any sleeving. That cuts production times by a lot, which is nice both for modding and for selling.
They are also incredibly rigid and malleable compared to standard UL1007 wire, meaning that if you sleeve on them you will benefit a lot from their interesting properties.
The insulation is very thin, an AWG16 silver teflon wire has the same outer diameter as a PVC-insulated AWG18 one.

There are other significant differences but in a home PC I don't think they matter much, they originally are used in aerospace and high end civil as far as I understood.

The silver plating is much more resistant to oxidation compared to tin plating, but the biggest benefit you could have in a DIY environment is the fact that you don't need flux to solder it.

One interesting quality might be that the FEP insulation has a MUCH higher flaming point, and it's stuffed with halogens which produce very toxic fumes - but these same fumes are also very flame ******ant.
If you were cabling a whole house with these and the structure catches on fire, you might have a health hazard and that could be too big of a risk.
But in a PC use, it is my opinion that in case of a short circuit or a very small fire the fumes would help with containing the damage while producing a negligible quantity of toxicity for our organism. Better a slightly more toxic fire that goes off immediately rather than a less toxic one that takes more and can expand.
However this is purely speculation based on my personal research, I'm neither an engineer nor an industry expert in the field







so I might be completely wrong in this last part


----------



## khemist

I have those same psu cables, i love them!.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> You should've seen the 18kg package I got yesterday lol


Does that included any tools, if so that doesn't count.

This is mainly for my fans, Sata & dupont connectors. I bought extra terminals just in case I need to replace anything. Since shipping can get extensive. Most of my Main PSU cables are already finished(all Gold Plated with MDPC-X Black), I decided to grab JTG connectors instead of using the commonly used HWT connectors. Since JMT is suppose to be top of the line(& better) + it's same connectors my PSU cables came with. HWT for Male end of fan connectors were always way to loose for the male terminal.

All my wiring has been soldered, What job that was (Sata, Molex & ATX).

JMT & TKG are my preferred companies I like to use when buying connectors or terminals.

I think so far I used about 400ft of sleeving.

btw, Did you use MDPC-X Sleeving for your USB 3.0 or a off brand? I could never get MDPC-X (Sata Sleeving) past my USB 3.0 connectors & had to use a off brand for sleeving USB 3.0(Since I couldn't get it to expand wide enough to slide past the connector).


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does that included any tools, if so that doesn't count.
> 
> This is mainly for my fans, Sata & dupont connectors. I bought extra terminals just in case I need to replace anything. Since shipping can get extensive. Most of my Main PSU cables are already finished(all Gold Plated with MDPC-X Black), I decided to grab JTG connectors instead of using the commonly used HWT connectors. Since JMT is suppose to be top of the line(& better) + it's same connectors my PSU cables came with. HWT for Male end of fan connectors were always way to loose for the male terminal.
> 
> All my wiring has been soldered, What job that was (Sata, Molex & ATX).
> 
> JMT & TKG are my preferred companies I like to use when buying connectors or terminals.
> 
> I think so far I used about 400ft of sleeving.
> 
> btw, Did you use MDPC-X Sleeving for your USB 3.0 or a off brand? I could never get MDPC-X (Sata Sleeving) past my USB 3.0 connectors & had to use a off brand for sleeving USB 3.0(Since I couldn't get it to expand wide enough to slide past the connector).


3 crimpers for a few friends, nothing special. Some watercooling stuff, a lot of screws, bunch of pins and connectors, around 300m of wire, forgot the rest lol

HWT is quite mediocre and it's what most modding and sleeving shops around sell.
JST is very good but a bit expensive, I would say comparable to original Molex quality unless you're doing mission critical things. I also really like YY pins.

I used MDPC-X sata sleeve for the usb 3.0. It was a tricky job and had to go from the other side, on the front panel ports. Luckily the usb 3.0 was just a simple type A female extension hotglued in there, i was able to sleeve it from that side.
However, since I didn't know this before, I was originally planning to desolder the whole stock usb 3.0 wire, and make it custom made. Would have been much more work though, for now it's fine like this and I'll keep the virtuosism for a future upgrade


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> 3 crimpers for a few friends, nothing special. Some watercooling stuff, a lot of screws, bunch of pins and connectors, around 300m of wire, forgot the rest lol
> 
> HWT is quite mediocre and it's what most modding and sleeving shops around sell.
> JST is very good but a bit expensive, I would say comparable to original Molex quality unless you're doing mission critical things. I also really like YY pins.
> 
> I used MDPC-X sata sleeve for the usb 3.0. It was a tricky job and had to go from the other side, on the front panel ports. Luckily the usb 3.0 was just a simple type A female extension hotglued in there, i was able to sleeve it from that side.
> However, since I didn't know this before, I was originally planning to desolder the whole stock usb 3.0 wire, and make it custom made. Would have been much more work though, for now it's fine like this and I'll keep the virtuosism for a future upgrade


Dunno if I will be able to fit it over mine, It seems thicker.

The 24 ATX from JMT I got for 0.80 USD. HWT sells for 0.50. Only a 0.30 difference. Of course if you buy them from Moddiy it's going cost you 2.50 per connector.


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Dunno if I will be able to fit it over mine, It seems thicker.
> 
> The 24 ATX from JMT I got for 0.80 USD. HWT sells for 0.50. Only a 0.30 difference. Of course if you buy them from Moddiy it's going cost you 2.50 per connector.


I buy in bulk so JMT gets quite expensive when you consider high numbers. However the difference is worth it, both connectors and pins.
Moddiy can go pick tomatoes from the fields as far as i'm concerned, they might have a huge catalog but their prices are borderline scamming. I can easily find all their stuff for sometimes even 10x less.


----------



## Jinto

I'm a bit confused. I have ordered a few things from Mod One such as the 2.4mm OD 16awg wire, and the female atx terminal pins. A few posts ago someone had mentioned that most sellers offer pins that are intended for 18-22 gauge wire which is why I'm probably having trouble crimping my 16awg 2.4mm OD wire into the pins. As I understand it, this is what I should be using instead? And does Digi-Key offer comparable 16awg 2.4mm wire?


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinto*
> 
> I'm a bit confused. I have ordered a few things from Mod One such as the 2.4mm OD 16awg wire, and the female atx terminal pins. A few posts ago someone had mentioned that most sellers offer pins that are intended for 18-22 gauge wire which is why I'm probably having trouble crimping my 16awg 2.4mm OD wire into the pins. As I understand it, this is what I should be using instead? And does Digi-Key offer comparable 16awg 2.4mm wire?


16AWG is not very easy to use because of these details. Wrong pins and contact is not guaranteed. Sleeving will also be quite more difficult because of the large OD.
I recommend you ask directly to Mod One for some 16AWG pins since you ordered from them already. Even if they don't explicitly sell them, I would be very surprised if they don't have any somewhere.


----------



## Craigk19

That was me that asked originally,I didn't know there was a difference on terminals wish mod-one had different ones on their site so I would have known. I gotta make them work though, spent almost $20 on terminals alone. My first trial on an extension ended not to well. Couldn't get a consistent crimp on the terminals causing the wires to vary slightly in length. Would have worked but after completing realized it was facing the wrong direction. When trying to depin I pulled 2 terminals off on the male connector side. Gonna attempt again tonight and hopefully have better luck


----------



## SHNS0

Sorry, I wrote to ask them for 16AWG cables, I meant 16AWG pins


----------



## Craigk19

when you get a reply would you let us know what the response was?


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinto*
> 
> I'm a bit confused. I have ordered a few things from Mod One such as the 2.4mm OD 16awg wire, and the female atx terminal pins. A few posts ago someone had mentioned that most sellers offer pins that are intended for 18-22 gauge wire which is why I'm probably having trouble crimping my 16awg 2.4mm OD wire into the pins. As I understand it, this is what I should be using instead? And does Digi-Key offer comparable 16awg 2.4mm wire?


UL1007 16AWG wire is 2.4mm in diameter.


----------



## Craigk19

I broke down and bought some 16 gauge terminals from Mainframe customs today to hopefully make it an easier process for myself


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> I broke down and bought some 16 gauge terminals from Mainframe customs today to hopefully make it an easier process for myself


They must have just started carrying those. You should be able to use those with both 16 and 18AWG wire.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> I broke down and bought some 16 gauge terminals from Mainframe customs today to hopefully make it an easier process for myself


They seem the same as Mod-One. Both have the wider wing span(Stock Photo could also be misleading). Also MainFrameCustoms wiring is less then 2mm(Which the description says works with there custom 16 AWG wiring). Where Mod-One is 2mm to 2.4mm thick.

Like I said previously it's possible to use Mod-One terminals, Just have thread the wiring down at downward angle when you come to the last part of the terminal. Also make sure your crimping tool is set to the lowest setting possible. Usually out of the box the tool is set to highest setting.

If they don't work for you these are 100% will work for you. Shipping is also very cheap.

Link 1: https://www.singularitycomputers.com/shop/custom-wiring/pins/atx-pins-female/
Link 2: https://www.icemodz.eu/store/#!/Female-Gold-Plated-ATX-PCI-EPS-Pin-Set-10-pcs/p/63288424/category=5517965
Link 3: https://www.moddiy.com/products/Premium-Gold%252dPlated-ATX-%7B47%7D-PCI-%7B47%7D-EPS-Long%252dArm-Connector-Pins-%28Female%29.html

Moddiy: Currently Have a sale, 10% Store wide.
Ice-modz: These will work with 2.4mm wiring without any issue. Since Ice-modz only uses 2.4 wiring. Moddiy & Ice-modz terminals are exactly the same.
Singularity: They use JMT terminals, Where both Moddiy & Ice-Modz use Young-Yak the same that High end PSU from Corsair & EVGA use in there cables.

These will also work Since they can fit two 18 AWG into one terminal. I never used them before nor will I ever shop at FrozenCPU after all the crap they have pulled.

Link: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10000319/ele-1454/FrozenCPU_Dual_Wire_ConnectRight_ATX_PCI_EPS_Connector_Pins_-_High_Wall_Female_500ct_spool.html?tl=g51c655s2106#blank


----------



## Craigk19

trying to cancel my order now with mainframe ill try again with my mod ones tonight then and if they work ill hold off. if not ill get them from ice-modz they seem to be slight cheaper there than from moddiy. 100 from ice-modes is 16 100 from moddiy is 27. i need to read a little more


----------



## MOD-ONE

Hi everyone! I want to see what the problem is with our terminals and 2.4mm wire. I have used both without issues using the MDPC-X crimper. The female terminals we have are meant for 16awg. In fact they have slightly longer wings over the 16awg molex versions. When using our female terminals, mdpc-x crimper and our 2.4mm wire I pre-crimp 2 clicks and then insert the wire. I just crimped this right now


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> trying to cancel my order now with mainframe ill try again with my mod ones tonight then and if they work ill hold off. if not ill get them from ice-modz they seem to be slight cheaper there than from moddiy. 100 from ice-modes is 16 100 from moddiy is 27. i need to read a little more


You can get 100 pieces for $5.39 from Digi Key: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/0039000077/WM3112CT-ND/1643460


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> trying to cancel my order now with mainframe ill try again with my mod ones tonight then and if they work ill hold off. if not ill get them from ice-modz they seem to be slight cheaper there than from moddiy. 100 from ice-modes is 16 100 from moddiy is 27. i need to read a little more


Moddiy has a habit of overcharging for certain products. singularity is the cheapest at around 9 dollars for 100 due to the currency exchange rate. These are also gold plated.

MainFrameCustoms is famous of being slow at answering E-mails. Usually they answer them in the evening. It takes them about two to three days to ship anything out.


----------



## Craigk19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> MainFrameCustoms is famous of being slow at answering E-mails. Usually they answer them in the evening. It takes them about two to three days to ship anything out.


It must be my lucky day i got a replay and order canceled with 20 minutes of requesting it.

Mod-One im gonna give it another try when i get home tonight will post an update when i do.


----------



## MOD-ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> It must be my lucky day i got a replay and order canceled with 20 minutes of requesting it.
> 
> Mod-One im gonna give it another try when i get home tonight will post an update when i do.


Okay sounds good. I'll keep an eye out here, but it might be better to email us at [email protected] so we can help you trouble shoot.


----------



## Craigk19

Looks like I'm just bad at this and need to pay a lot more attention took about 4 minutes of patience and double checking and this is what I came up with


----------



## msd0

What are you using for a crimper?


----------



## MOD-ONE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> Looks like I'm just bad at this and need to pay a lot more attention took about 4 minutes of patience and double checking and this is what I came up with


Well that looks pretty good! If you are new to crimping then it will require some practice. You need to get to the point where you can feel the wire properly inside the terminal. You can almost feel the wire core slide between the small wings and then it stops as the insulation hits the small wings.


----------



## Craigk19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> What are you using for a crimper?


MfC's from main frame customes


----------



## Craigk19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MOD-ONE*
> 
> Well that looks pretty good! If you are new to crimping then it will require some practice. You need to get to the point where you can feel the wire properly inside the terminal. You can almost feel the wire core slide between the small wings and then it stops as the insulation hits the small wings.


I am new, I will say it's a learning curve though. I spent 3 hours making 1 8pin pci extension last night making sure and extra sure on lengths. Had 4 at 9" and 4 at 8.5" made sure all strips were the same as well. Seems the crimping is what is the hardest to get the same length. Reason I say this is my extension had a small twist in it. But here is my first completed full attempt. One more question i have when stretching the sleeving over the wire i noticed i could not keep it tight before doing the heat shrink is there a trick to this? problem was if i kept it super tight and tried to melt the heat shrink it would get to hot to hold onto with my fingers being to close. after doing the 2nd melting i would get a little slack back in the sleeving


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MOD-ONE*
> 
> You can almost feel the wire core slide between the small wings and then it stops as the insulation hits the small wings.


I know what you mean by 'feel' ... I insert the pin into my crimper, crimp 1 stop until the big wings form a nice circle and then insert the wire ... when you do it right, you can really feel the 'click'.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> I am new, I will say it's a learning curve though. I spent 3 hours making 1 8pin pci extension last night making sure and extra sure on lengths. Had 4 at 9" and 4 at 8.5" made sure all strips were the same as well. Seems the crimping is what is the hardest to get the same length. Reason I say this is my extension had a small twist in it. But here is my first completed full attempt


I like the color scheme and the cable combs (what can I say ... I like cable combs). It looks like you got the length reduction right for the 180° radius.

But ... what is up with the green and grey sleeving ... it looks oval-ish and not round (see top of pic quoted above). Did you push / pull the sleeving super tight after melting one end onto the crimp ... hold it and then melt the other end? If your fingers don't hurt by tightening and holding the sleeving, then you aren't doing it right.


----------



## Craigk19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> But ... what is up with the green and grey sleeving ... it looks oval-ish and not round (see top of pic quoted above). Did you push / pull the sleeving super tight after melting one end onto the crimp ... hold it and then melt the other end? If your fingers don't hurt by tightening and holding the sleeving, then you aren't doing it right.


when stretching the sleeving over the wire i noticed i could not keep it tight before doing the heat shrink is there a trick to this? problem was if i kept it super tight and tried to melt the heat shrink it would get to hot to hold onto with my fingers being to close. after doing the 2nd melting i would get a little slack back in the sleeving. my fingers are tender today for sure and i would have to take a small break after everyone because it was like giving myself rope burn.


----------



## ruffhi

Ok - sounds like you got it right (ie hurting yourself







). I pinch it off about 1/2" away from where I want to heat ... and I use a lighter to melt the heat shrink.


----------



## Craigk19

that sounds about like how i was doing it and i was using a BIC lighter as well, gonna have to get a new one after using the current one. with practice i think ill get it down though.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> when stretching the sleeving over the wire i noticed i could not keep it tight before doing the heat shrink is there a trick to this? problem was if i kept it super tight and tried to melt the heat shrink it would get to hot to hold onto with my fingers being to close. after doing the 2nd melting i would get a little slack back in the sleeving. my fingers are tender today for sure and i would have to take a small break after everyone because it was like giving myself rope burn.


I use a small pair of vise grips to stretch and hold the sleeve in place. I have silicone tubing on both jaws to protect the sleeve and wire. I also use clear 3:1 heat shrink and a flame less torch to melt the sleeve.


----------



## Mega Man

i know i am necroing these. but for others ... and may be the original poster as well
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I can't seem to get any replay in the pin layout thread, I might as well ask here too.
> 
> Anyone have a diagram of Six Pin layout for PCiE(GPU) to 8 pin (PSU side)(EVGA T2 1600)? I can't seem to find a proper diagram online. It's been awhile since I did a six pin version, I just don't recall where each wire goes & what wire is double crimped.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> do you not have a wire you can dismantle to get the pin out for it?
> 
> 
> 
> No, Theirs no six pcie in any of my PSU boxes. The only one I have is the 6+2 version. I can't really see how it's wired since their sleeved & heatshrink is basically superglue to the wires.
Click to expand...

i recommend everyone doing this gets a cheap digital multi meter ( DMM ) as long as you know it is a cheap one you are fine. it will give you basic voltages and then teach yourself to use it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey guys, I've got some sleeving I need to do in order to finish up a build. What molex/ATX pin remover would you guys suggest? I know there is the staple method but that hurts my hand after awhile.
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> I use these, or you could get the original molex brand from Allied. You may want to get 2, putting a sleeving job on hold because you broke the extractor is annoying. The molex brand is the best, but the mainframe is pretty good and half the price. Avoid the lamptron type kits, they'll just break after a few pins and don't work very well anyways.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm just doing a few cables, not a whole PSU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will probably go with the molex one though! Now what about a pin remover for the round molex pins? Or does that tool you linked to (the official one from Molex) also work with the round pins?
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

always get the MDPCones, never had an issue... i make mine like this



https://mod-one.com/mdpc-x-save-my-wallet-4-pin-extractor-tool/


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> when stretching the sleeving over the wire i noticed i could not keep it tight before doing the heat shrink is there a trick to this? problem was if i kept it super tight and tried to melt the heat shrink it would get to hot to hold onto with my fingers being to close. after doing the 2nd melting i would get a little slack back in the sleeving. my fingers are tender today for sure and i would have to take a small break after everyone because it was like giving myself rope burn.


I really don't try to over stretch it, I only allow mild stretching enough so each side sleeving covers a small bit of the terminal.

I use thinner heatshrink then what Mod-One sells. 3/16" you only have to heat each side for five seconds & your done. Plus this way the wiring will never get hot enough not to handle.

I wrote this quick guide for heatshrinkless sleeving it may or may not help:

Link: http://www.overclock.net/t/1610817/build-log-project-frost-case-labs-thw10-x99-watercooled-i7-6950x-titan-x/540#post_26048849

This comes in handy as long as you get a working one. Mine was broken (Not sure if it was due to shipping or not) or just go to dollar store and buy a bunch of outdoor lighters. Each will last about an hour.



This is the tool I use. It will help keep stretched sleeving in place(with no damage). I use this tool when I daisy chain wires together or soldering.

link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PIA6Z4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Ragsters

The bottom set of wires on an extension cable has to be a little smaller than thr top set to create that arch look. Does anyone know what the length difference really should be?


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> The bottom set of wires on an extension cable has to be a little smaller than thr top set to create that arch look. Does anyone know what the length difference really should be?


1/4" for a 90 degree bend, 1/2" for a 180 degree bend.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> 1/4" for a 90 degree bend, 1/2" for a 180 degree bend.


Sweet thanks!


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> The bottom set of wires on an extension cable has to be a little smaller than thr top set to create that arch look. Does anyone know what the length difference really should be?


Some of the guys with more experience might have a different number, but 0.25" for 90deg, 0.5" for a 180deg, etc. seems to work.


----------



## WalkingCorpse

Currently sleeving the psu for my build, The House of the Ryzen Sun. Finished the two 8-pin pcie cables for my Fury X today. Really look awesome with some MNPCTECH billet combs.



https://mnpctech.com/buy-stealth-cable-combs-for-pcs/


----------



## msd0

Those look really good.


----------



## homingmystic

Hello all, I have been attempting to crimp for the frist time, but whenever I crimp it gets squashed too much and it doesn't clamp into the wire. Here is the crimper I am using : http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/acatalog/info_1993.html

I have also attached two images of how the crimp looks. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homingmystic*
> 
> Hello all, I have been attempting to crimp for the frist time, but whenever I crimp it gets squashed too much and it doesn't clamp into the wire. Here is the crimper I am using : http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/acatalog/info_1993.html
> 
> I have also attached two images of how the crimp looks. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


I notice that with my crimper (looks alot like that) that the ratchet mechanism unlocks when the crimper is not fully squeezed down. There's still some room left. If I keep squeezing until I can't go anymore, my crimps look like that. But, if I let go when the mechanism unlocks it comes out looking fine.


----------



## homingmystic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> I notice that with my crimper (looks alot like that) that the ratchet mechanism unlocks when the crimper is not fully squeezed down. There's still some room left. If I keep squeezing until I can't go anymore, my crimps look like that. But, if I let go when the mechanism unlocks it comes out looking fine.


Thanks for the reply, I have just been trying again, and not going any further than when the ratchet unlocks, but I still don't seem to be getting a great crimp on the wire. I have attached an image to show this. The crimp end seems to get pushed down the side of the tool, resulting in a bad crimp. It is most likely how I am using it, but trying to learn.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homingmystic*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, I have just been trying again, and not going any further than when the ratchet unlocks, but I still don't seem to be getting a great crimp on the wire. I have attached an image to show this. The crimp end seems to get pushed down the side of the tool, resulting in a bad crimp. It is most likely how I am using it, but trying to learn.


It looks like you have it in upside down. The open part should face towards the other side.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homingmystic*
> 
> Hello all, I have been attempting to crimp for the frist time, but whenever I crimp it gets squashed too much and it doesn't clamp into the wire. Here is the crimper I am using : http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/acatalog/info_1993.html
> 
> I have also attached two images of how the crimp looks. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!


You don't have to fully go through a complete press down on the crimping tool. Some of the thicker wiring will never allow it(Like the 2.4 16 AWG wiring). I could never do a full press down on my crimping tool.

Second take a look at the setting on your crimping tool. Make sure it's set to the lowest possible setting. Usually out of the box the crimp tool is set to the highest possible setting. Changing that would help allot.

Also why is the terminal completely blue in the second picture? How did you manage to do that.


----------



## homingmystic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> It looks like you have it in upside down. The open part should face towards the other side.


I have followed that tutorial, thanks for the link though. I have atatched three images that show three notches without a wire. My crimper doesn't seem to make a heart crimp like the one shown in lutro0's video you linked.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> You don't have to fully go through a complete press down on the crimping tool. Some of the thicker wiring will never allow it(Like the 2.4 16 AWG wiring). I could never do a full press down on my crimping tool.
> 
> Second take a look at the setting on your crimping tool. Make sure it's set to the lowest possible setting. Usually out of the box the crimp tool is set to the highest possible setting. Changing that would help allot.
> 
> Also why is the terminal completely blue in the second picture? How did you manage to do that.


The wire I am using currently is 18 AWG, I have tried it on the lowest setting, and it crimps the wire, but it doesnt press into it like shown in Lutro0's video (shown in the image attached) In the above reply I have shown what my crimp looks like from 1 - 3 notches. That was the same terminal, i just flipped it to show both sides


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homingmystic*
> 
> I have followed that tutorial, thanks for the link though. I have atatched three images that show three notches without a wire. My crimper doesn't seem to make a heart crimp like the one shown in lutro0's video you linked.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wire I am using currently is 18 AWG, I have tried it on the lowest setting, and it crimps the wire, but it doesnt press into it like shown in Lutro0's video (shown in the image attached) In the above reply I have shown what my crimp looks like from 1 - 3 notches. That was the same terminal, i just flipped it to show both sides


Inset the terminal into the crimper & make sure it locks with the built in groves inside the terminal area. Based on the picture I can't seem to see any kind of locks inside the terminal area. It might be the cause of all the problems you are having.

You might want to think of getting a better crimper tool like this: https://www.cable-sleeving.com/mdpc-crimping-tool-atx-mini-fit-jr

With my crimper I only do two clicks, I also use thicker wiring 2.4mm (16AWG).


----------



## homingmystic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Inset the terminal into the crimper & make sure it locks with the built in groves inside the terminal area. Based on the picture I can't seem to see any kind of locks inside the terminal area. It might be the cause of all the problems you are having.
> 
> You might want to think of getting a better crimper tool like this: https://www.cable-sleeving.com/mdpc-crimping-tool-atx-mini-fit-jr
> 
> With my crimper I only do two clicks, I also use thicker wiring 2.4mm (16AWG).


That definitely does seem like the issue, there the grooves on mine are visible, but very shallow compared to yours (attached image below to show grooves.. or lack of). Would your crimper cut into the cable if it was using 18 AWG by any chance?

Looks like I may have to purchase a new crimper sadly then, I thought the one I got would be suitable


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homingmystic*
> 
> I have followed that tutorial, thanks for the link though. I have atatched three images that show three notches without a wire. My crimper doesn't seem to make a heart crimp like the one shown in lutro0's video you linked.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ahh, I see now. From the last picture it looked like the terminal was the other way around. Yea, you'll probably have to get a different crimper like the one @Revan654 linked. Mainframe Customs also sells ones that are good if you're based in the US.


----------



## homingmystic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Ahh, I see now. From the last picture it looked like the terminal was the other way around. Yea, you'll probably have to get a different crimper like the one @Revan654 linked. Mainframe Customs also sells ones that are good if you're based in the US.


Yeah I probably should have labeld them, my bad







Yeah, I think Ill order the one linked, I'm based in the UK. I will have to see if i can return the other crimper to Kustompcs. Thank you all for the support!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homingmystic*
> 
> That definitely does seem like the issue, there the grooves on mine are visible, but very shallow compared to yours (attached image below to show grooves.. or lack of). Would your crimper cut into the cable if it was using 18 AWG by any chance?
> 
> Looks like I may have to purchase a new crimper sadly then, I thought the one I got would be suitable


Yours is missing the groves, It's completely flat.

My Crimper is design all the way up to 30 AWG. 18 AWG will have no issue, I have done plenty of 18 AWG wiring.

The MDPC-X Crimper is one better crimper for PSU cables. It will also crimp just about any PC terminal.

You can buy all the MDPC-X supplies & tools directly from MDPC-X since there located in the UK.


----------



## homingmystic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Yours is missing the groves, It's completely flat.
> 
> My Crimper is design all the way up to 30 AWG. 18 AWG will have no issue, I have done plenty of 18 AWG wiring.
> 
> The MDPC-X Crimper is one better crimper for PSU cables. It will also crimp just about any PC terminal.
> 
> You can buy all the MDPC-X supplies & tools directly from MDPC-X since there located in the UK.


Yeah, I have email the seller to see what can be done. I have purchased the MDPC-X version now, so hopefully this works alot better than the one i have now.


----------



## Jinto

Quick question, I'm in the middle of sleeving my EVGA 850W P2 and just finishing up the last few double wires from the 24pin section. Is it okay if I clip off the smaller guage wire from the terminal and sleeve over it?



Will it cause a short?


----------



## msd0

It won't cause a short once it's in the connector, but I'd still crimp a new terminal on so that it's easier to sleeve. You might have compromised the strain relief as well if the wire was cut off close to insulation crimp.


----------



## jleslie246

I can crimp now and I think I got the melting park down. Now its time to make cables. In my system the PSU butts up to one of my radiators. Will this be an issue with sleeved cables? trying to cram the plugs in? You can see what I mean in my sig rig pictures.


----------



## Craigk19

picture is so dark i cant see it really but it shouldn't any more of a problem then your stock cables in all honestly it should be less bulky


----------



## Ragsters

I currently have an MDPC crimper and I cant get it to crimp correctly. about 9/10 crimps suck. I think I have a defective one or something.Thinking of throwing it in the trash. I would return it but I bought it off someone here on OCN years ago. Just started using it a couple weeks ago.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I currently have an MDPC crimper and I cant get it to crimp correctly. about 9/10 crimps suck. I think I have a defective one or something.Thinking of throwing it in the trash. I would return it but I bought it off someone here on OCN years ago. Just started using it a couple weeks ago.


I bought the IWISS SN-28B and they work flawlessly. I just made my first 6 pin PCI-e cable and had zero bad crimps (first time doing them btw). These are the same crimpers recommended by Singularity Computers


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I currently have an MDPC crimper and I cant get it to crimp correctly. about 9/10 crimps suck. I think I have a defective one or something.Thinking of throwing it in the trash. I would return it but I bought it off someone here on OCN years ago. Just started using it a couple weeks ago.


So this is the entirely black crimper? What wire are using and what issue are you having? What is the tension set to? I'm not sure how it would be possible to get one that doesn't work well. I've crimped probably 2000+ crimps w/ mine and its still fantastic.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> So this is the entirely black crimper? What wire are using and what issue are you having? What is the tension set to? I'm not sure how it would be possible to get one that doesn't work well. I've crimped probably 2000+ crimps w/ mine and its still fantastic.


Yes, entirely black crimper, tension set to lowest, and using 18awg wire. Also using terminals from mod-one.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I currently have an MDPC crimper and I cant get it to crimp correctly. about 9/10 crimps suck. I think I have a defective one or something.Thinking of throwing it in the trash. I would return it but I bought it off someone here on OCN years ago. Just started using it a couple weeks ago.


Can you post a couple pics of the crimps?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Yes, entirely black crimper, tension set to lowest, and using 18awg wire. Also using terminals from mod-one.


First make sure your lining everything up, the crimper have teeth make sure the terminal is sitting correctly on each one.

It should sit in the crimper like So:










Pre-crimp the terminal (Usually one to three clicks). Then slide the wiring through the terminal, It should now kind of lock to the wire. Which will allow you to crimp the rest of the way much easier.

Should turn out something like this:










Once fully crimped it should like this:


















Here are the terminals from Mod-One using 16 AWG wiring.


















If your still stuck I suggest watch this video:


----------



## lowfat

When I place the crimp in the connector I click it twice. Once holds it in place. Second bends the arms slightly. Not sure what you are using for strippers but the shortest setting on the Knipex strippers works perfect. If you are finding its bending the crimp too much, try releasing it one click early.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Yes, entirely black crimper, tension set to lowest, and using 18awg wire. Also using terminals from mod-one.


Sometimes the dies come loose and go out of alignment. Just loosen both, close the tool, and retighten the screws.


----------



## Craigk19

I love how willing to help this sub is!!


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> First make sure your lining everything up, the crimper have teeth make sure the terminal is sitting correctly on each one.
> 
> It should sit in the crimper like So:
> 
> 
> 
> Pre-crimp the terminal (Usually one to three clicks). Then slide the wiring through the terminal, It should now kind of lock to the wire. Which will allow you to crimp the rest of the way much easier.
> 
> Should turn out something like this:
> 
> 
> 
> Once fully crimped it should like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the terminals from Mod-One using 16 AWG wiring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your still stuck I suggest watch this video:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> When I place the crimp in the connector I click it twice. Once holds it in place. Second bends the arms slightly. Not sure what you are using for strippers but the shortest setting on the Knipex strippers works perfect. If you are finding its bending the crimp too much, try releasing it one click early.


I have tried all those things. Can I sent it to one of you guys this week. You can test it and tell me if its user error. Ill pay for shipping both ways of course.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> When I place the crimp in the connector I click it twice. Once holds it in place. Second bends the arms slightly. Not sure what you are using for strippers but the shortest setting on the Knipex strippers works perfect. If you are finding its bending the crimp too much, try releasing it one click early.


Just wanted to add that the strip length should be 3.0-3.3mm.


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I currently have an MDPC crimper and I cant get it to crimp correctly. about 9/10 crimps suck. I think I have a defective one or something.Thinking of throwing it in the trash. I would return it but I bought it off someone here on OCN years ago. Just started using it a couple weeks ago.


While Nils was away there were a few people supplying crimpers that seem to be from the same source but which had not been milled by MDPC, so the lower jaw which forms the bed of the crimp hadn't been milled out and was thus too shallow. As a result these proto-MDPC crimpers crush the insulation crimp so much that one of the lugs will sometimes actually break off. If that is what is happening with you it looks like you got sold a pup.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I have tried all those things. Can I sent it to one of you guys this week. You can test it and tell me if its user error. Ill pay for shipping both ways of course.


I would contact Mod-One & tell him know the problem your having with the terminals. I had an issue with my crimper at one time (It only need some oil, since it was kind of locking up at the end point). He offered to take a look at my crimper & repair it for me.

I would also contact MDPC-X directly & tell them your issue. They can usually pin point the problem. Send them some Photos with your E-mail showing what terminals look like & what your crimper looks like.

Any chance you could take some photos of your crimper & focus on the teeth of the crimper. The teeth may have been wore down in your crimper, Making it impossible to create a good crimp. You may just need to replace the dies(Which can be removed by two screws), I'm pretty sure MDPC-X could send you replacements for the dies.

If all that fails sometimes spring loaded crimpers are not the best to use. The Engineer PA-20 crimpers are a good alternative if MDPC-X crimpers are not working for you. You can get them for around 30 dollars. I use the PA-09 for small terminals with very good results.


----------



## havoc315

Hey I just finished up doing an extension and im using the 2.4mm 16awg wire from mainframe and sleeving from ensourced. Im using the IWISS SN-28B crimper, which still kind of confuses me on it having 3 spots for crimps. The pins and connectors for these are from ensourced. I have pins from mainframe and ppcs, I wanted to make sure they were the Molex brand because I knew they had the long wings on them and I wanted to be able to crimp the sleeving with the wire. These extensions are for someone else and I want to make sure that the crimp is ok or not, I don't want to have to redo them but if it's not safe then I will. I was using the pins for 18-22 awg and didn't realize that until I finished and was looking at other pins I had. This is my first attempt at sleeving.
I have the 16 awg pins from mainframe and they do a perfect crimp on this cable.
Below is the 18awg pins





And in the next picture is after I found the Mainframes Molex brand 16 awg pins. This is what i will be doing for mine in a week or so, only way i could do these was to pinch the long wings over the sleeving before putting it into the crimper, is there a better way to do this that would be faster possibly lol


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc315*
> 
> Hey I just finished up doing an extension and im using the 2.4mm 16awg wire from mainframe and sleeving from ensourced. Im using the IWISS SN-28B crimper, which still kind of confuses me on it having 3 spots for crimps. The pins and connectors for these are from ensourced. I have pins from mainframe and ppcs, I wanted to make sure they were the Molex brand because I knew they had the long wings on them and I wanted to be able to crimp the sleeving with the wire. These extensions are for someone else and I want to make sure that the crimp is ok or not, I don't want to have to redo them but if it's not safe then I will. I was using the pins for 18-22 awg and didn't realize that until I finished and was looking at other pins I had. This is my first attempt at sleeving.
> I have the 16 awg pins from mainframe and they do a perfect crimp on this cable.
> Below is the 18awg pins
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in the next picture is after I found the Mainframes Molex brand 16 awg pins. This is what i will be doing for mine in a week or so, only way i could do these was to pinch the long wings over the sleeving before putting it into the crimper, is there a better way to do this that would be faster possibly lol


MainFrame uses 2mm wiring not 2.4.


----------



## havoc315

Sorry your right it is 2mm


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc315*
> 
> Sorry your right it is 2mm


To my knowledge only two sleeving shops carry 2.4mm wiring. Mod-One & Ice-Modz. Only Mod-One has copper wiring with tin plated. Ice-Modz is bare copper.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc315*
> 
> Hey I just finished up doing an extension and im using the 2.4mm 16awg wire from mainframe and sleeving from ensourced. Im using the IWISS SN-28B crimper, which still kind of confuses me on it having 3 spots for crimps. The pins and connectors for these are from ensourced. I have pins from mainframe and ppcs, I wanted to make sure they were the Molex brand because I knew they had the long wings on them and I wanted to be able to crimp the sleeving with the wire. These extensions are for someone else and I want to make sure that the crimp is ok or not, I don't want to have to redo them but if it's not safe then I will. I was using the pins for 18-22 awg and didn't realize that until I finished and was looking at other pins I had. This is my first attempt at sleeving.
> I have the 16 awg pins from mainframe and they do a perfect crimp on this cable.
> Below is the 18awg pins
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in the next picture is after I found the Mainframes Molex brand 16 awg pins. This is what i will be doing for mine in a week or so, only way i could do these was to pinch the long wings over the sleeving before putting it into the crimper, is there a better way to do this that would be faster possibly lol


Nice job. The jaws on your crimper should be marked with the wire size (AWG, mm²). In your last pic, it looks like your crimping over the sleeve. The preferred method (heatshrinkless) is to melt the sleeve over the end of the crimped terminal.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> ...In your last pic, it looks like your crimping over the sleeve. The preferred method (heatshrinkless) is to melt the sleeve over the end of the crimped terminal (heatshrinkless).


The preferred method is whatever works and that appears to be working just fine.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> The preferred method is whatever works and that appears to be working just fine.


Fair enough, maybe preferred wasn't the right word, but it's a good alternative


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Nice job. The jaws on your crimper should be marked with the wire size (AWG, mm²). In your last pic, it looks like your crimping over the sleeve. The preferred method (heatshrinkless) is to melt the sleeve over the end of the crimped terminal.


It's highly advise to use that method if your doing it by hand. Since the terminal will crimp properly to the wire. The other method doesn't give you a solid crimp to the wire. You also have to deal with the added size of the sleeving, Which can be difficult to get it into the crimper.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> The preferred method is whatever works and that appears to be working just fine.


That may be so However the terminal does not pinch the wiring that way which results in a bad crimping. Plus you have to deal with the extra size of the sleeving.

The one picture you posted the terminals look to be poorly crimped. It doesn't have proper contact with the Strands of the wire. The other terminal is bent, not sure how much contact you even have with that one.


----------



## havoc315

I bought some white wire from ensourced that measures 2.4mm around and is copper tinned, it's actually a really good wire too and I might end up using that, but originally the plan was to do the same thing cablemods does and crimps the sleeving in with the wire even tho I didn't do that with these wires except the last photo, which was the first time. In the photo with the cables done is using mainframes 16 awg 2mm special black wire and the 18 set pins, which were not ment to be used like I said but they seem to be holding and making a good connection, it's not making a heart but I can see the pressure and it won't come loose. I just wanted to see if it will be ok if I check it and everything works and holds up? Like does a bent pin like the one in my last post ruin it and require me to redo it?


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

I've seen pretty, picture perfect crimps that were easily pulled apart and crimps that looked like...looked terrible that held up under a pull test. The ultimate tests are the pins don't pull off the wire and the crimps don't show when inserted into a connector.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> I've seen pretty, picture perfect crimps that were easily pulled apart and crimps that looked like...looked terrible that held up under a pull test. The ultimate tests are the pins don't pull off the wire and the crimps don't show when inserted into a connector.


Then it wasn't a good crimp start with if they can be easily pulled off.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> I've seen pretty, picture perfect crimps that were easily pulled apart and crimps that looked like...looked terrible that held up under a pull test. The ultimate tests are the pins don't pull off the wire and the crimps don't show when inserted into a connector.
> 
> 
> 
> Then it wasn't a good crimp start with if they can be easily pulled off.
Click to expand...

Uhhh...that was pretty much my point. Just because a crimp looks good doesn't always mean it is good and vice versa.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Uhhh...that was pretty much my point. Just because a crimp looks good doesn't always mean it is good and vice versa.


When terminals were bent in the picture or bad contact, It's a whole another story. You do want your terminals to be straight as possible with a very good grip. There to much extra room in the contact terminal spot which could results with poor connection.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc315*
> 
> I bought some white wire from ensourced that measures 2.4mm around and is copper tinned, it's actually a really good wire too and I might end up using that, but originally the plan was to do the same thing cablemods does and crimps the sleeving in with the wire even tho I didn't do that with these wires except the last photo, which was the first time. In the photo with the cables done is using mainframes 16 awg 2mm special black wire and the 18 set pins, which were not ment to be used like I said but they seem to be holding and making a good connection, it's not making a heart but I can see the pressure and it won't come loose. I just wanted to see if it will be ok if I check it and everything works and holds up? Like does a bent pin like the one in my last post ruin it and require me to redo it?


If it was me I would re-do it, I like everything I create to be 100% perfect.

Ensource is a decent place to shop (I just don't like there option for wiring). Since there only option is white. White is good when sleeving light color paracord from them or PET from other places. The darker paracord/PET you might run into issues of the white showing through the sleeving. Dark colors you should always use Black.

Most high end Sleeving shops do sell good wiring. Just not the top of the line stuff since it would be to pricey. 100 ft of Belden wiring is around 80 dollars.

I would not copy anything CableMod does. Most if not all there products are Subpar. Not to mention they use machines to crimp there wiring & sleeving not hand tools. Plus Cable Mod uses 2mm sleeving. Not sure how thick paracord from Ensourced is but I'm guessing it's thicker then 2mm. Unless your crimper goes below 16mm, the added mm will cause even more of an issue when crimping the sleeving to the wire.

If you had machine to do that process then it would be an ok process to do. All of us here are using hand tools, The burning method should be the only method used with hand tools.

Heart shape is for pre-crimping (I use larger terminals they don't end up in heart shape once fully crimped). I don't know without fully testing the cables. I would buy a multimeter & check out your cables. If your going to create your own cables you should already have a multimeter or some device to test your cables.


----------



## Revan654

I finally pulled the trigger & upgraded to a better crimper. MDPC-X is still a very good crimper, It was just giving me problems with certain terminals (Mainly the smaller terminals).


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> I finally pulled the trigger & upgraded to a better crimper. MDPC-X is still a very good crimper, It was just giving me problems with certain terminals (Mainly the smaller terminals).


Nice. Where does one acquire that item? It looks like it covers quite a range of sizes with all of the tool inserts.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> Nice. Where does one acquire that item? It looks like it covers quite a range of sizes with all of the tool inserts.


It was difficult trying to find a store that sold it for retail price The only US store I found that carried this was HobbyKing. I have done business with them many times before, They can be trusted. There are others on Ebay & a few stores on Amazon Market Place. HobbyKing is the cheapest at around 94 dollars. Everyone else wants 130+ dollars for it.

Link: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/sales/order/view/order_id/2578601

Make sure you select US Warehouse or warehouse located in your country to get the cheapest price & Shipping.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Uhhh...that was pretty much my point. Just because a crimp looks good doesn't always mean it is good and vice versa.
> 
> 
> 
> When terminals were bent in the picture or bad contact, It's a whole another story. You do want your terminals to be straight as possible with a very good grip. There to much extra room in the contact terminal spot which could results with poor connection.
Click to expand...

You are still missing the point.


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> I finally pulled the trigger & upgraded to a better crimper. MDPC-X is still a very good crimper, It was just giving me problems with certain terminals (Mainly the smaller terminals).


How much was that?


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> I finally pulled the trigger & upgraded to a better crimper. MDPC-X is still a very good crimper, It was just giving me problems with certain terminals (Mainly the smaller terminals).


How do you like that crimper so far? I have the PA-21 that works really well on smaller terminals, but tends to bend Mini-Fit Jr because of the narrow jaws.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Everyone knows about open or closed combs? right?

what do people think of these? half open & closed? good idea or what? opinions count so let me know?

thx guys:thumb:


----------



## msd0

I think it's a great idea. How well do they hold the cables on the open end?


----------



## korruptedkaos

they hold pretty good! the only problem i think is the same as any comb? when trying to do 180'' turns...???
also plastic seems to hold & slide better than metal so just messing with them at the mo & fine tweaking!


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> Everyone knows about open or closed combs? right?
> 
> what do people think of these? half open & closed? good idea or what? opinions count so let me know?
> 
> thx guys:thumb:


Those look great! If they hold the wires in place ok, I'd be interested in those.

I like that you can make your cables and then add the combs later


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> they hold pretty good! the only problem i think is the same as any comb? when trying to do 180'' turns...???
> also plastic seems to hold & slide better than metal so just messing with them at the mo & fine tweaking!


Are these for your personal builds or are you planning on selling them?


----------



## jleslie246

Im currently making my GPU cables, one 6 pin and one 8 pin. Will they both be right just wiring straight across (connector to connector)? It looks like the 6 pin will work this way but the 8 pin will require crossing some wires. I have not seen any wiring diagrams to confirm this. Only connector pinouts that make me cross eyed


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Those look great! If they hold the wires in place ok, I'd be interested in those.
> 
> I like that you can make your cables and then add the combs later


thx,








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Are these for your personal builds or are you planning on selling them?


there not for my build no, someone just asked if i could create something like this for them & well i do sell cable combs. so i was wondering wether to produce them or not?









seems like maybe i should cos they do look cool & serve a purpose


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> How do you like that crimper so far? I have the PA-21 that works really well on smaller terminals, but tends to bend Mini-Fit Jr because of the narrow jaws.


The PA-09 works well on smaller terminals, Based on some of the comments. The Pad version works even better.

I haven't gotten it yet, unfortunately there only two shipping methods Fed-Ex Ground or USPS Ground (it's shipped from West Cost & I'm on the east coast).

It comes will all the dies, since I would need 12 + 11 die. If you buy the one die separate & buy PAD-11 / PAD-13. It's just about the same price as the complete set. It's around 30 dollars per die. PAD-11/13 is about 70 dollars from Amazon. I wanted die 13 just in-case I need to crimp larger terminals. I couldn't find any place that sells just PAD-12 only Pad-11 or Pad-13.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> How much was that?


I got it for 93 dollars + Shipping. It's the cheapest I have found it for. Most places are charging 130+ dollars for it. It's bit more expensive then most decent crimpers like MDPC-X. Since it does a better job, I think it's worth the extra money.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> You are still missing the point.


Nope.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> Everyone knows about open or closed combs? right?
> 
> what do people think of these? half open & closed? good idea or what? opinions count so let me know?
> 
> thx guys:thumb:


There fine, I don't think I would use them due to the style & color. As long as there a good hold on the sleeving, I don't see any kind of problem using them. I'm currently using Carbon Fiber cable combs & I really like how they look. Plus they will not break. I assume those combs are made from Aluminum? They look similar to material MNPCTech uses for there cable combs.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone knows about open or closed combs? right?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> they hold pretty good! the only problem i think is the same as any comb? when trying to do 180'' turns...???
> also plastic seems to hold & slide better than metal so just messing with them at the mo & fine tweaking!


Nice work!


----------



## Inelastic

New computer, new cables. I'm still terrible at getting the lengths right, but that's ok since I can hide the errors behind my psu shroud.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> The PA-09 works well on smaller terminals, Based on some of the comments. The Pad version works even better.
> 
> I haven't gotten it yet, unfortunately there only two shipping methods Fed-Ex Ground or USPS Ground (it's shipped from West Cost & I'm on the east coast).
> 
> It comes will all the dies, since I would need 12 + 11 die. If you buy the one die separate & buy PAD-11 / PAD-13. It's just about the same price as the complete set. It's around 30 dollars per die. PAD-11/13 is about 70 dollars from Amazon. I wanted die 13 just in-case I need to crimp larger terminals. I couldn't find any place that sells just PAD-12 only Pad-11 or Pad-13.
> I got it for 93 dollars + Shipping. It's the cheapest I have found it for. Most places are charging 130+ dollars for it. It's bit more expensive then most decent crimpers like MDPC-X. Since it does a better job, I think it's worth the extra money.
> Nope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There fine, I don't think I would use them due to the style & color. As long as there a good hold on the sleeving, I don't see any kind of problem using them. I'm currently using Carbon Fiber cable combs & I really like how they look. Plus they will not break. I assume those combs are made from Aluminum? They look similar to material MNPCTech uses for there cable combs.


I think carbon fibre is a bit OTT! you dont see the edge of CB so it aint really getting a look at it? yeah there made from alu mine...but i use just 1050 grade alu which is like 5x a pain in the ass to machine haha.... but 5x as cheap lol. id buy a better grade like 6061 or 6082 but i dont really see the point.....they do what they need to do & thats what matters really i think... as for colour? what colour you want cos i can anodise them! its just not really cost effective to do compared to acrylic plastic combs.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> thx man, much appreciated!
> 
> Nice work!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> New computer, new cables. I'm still terrible at getting the lengths right, but that's ok since I can hide the errors behind my psu shroud.


What's going on with that one sleeving wire? Why is there a heatshrink on a EPS cable?


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> What's going on with that one sleeving wire? Why is there a heatshrink on a EPS cable?


It's a 8 pin PCIE cable. I do it that way because it's easier for me to splice them together instead of trying put both wires into the terminal.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> ...i use just 1050 grade alu which is like 5x a pain in the ass to machine haha.... but 5x as cheap lol. id buy a better grade like 6061 or 6082 but i dont really see the point.....they do what they need to do & thats what matters really i think... as for colour? what colour you want cos i can anodise them! its just not really cost effective to do compared to acrylic plastic combs.


+1^ though it's mostly a matter of personal preference when it comes to stuff like this.

As for making your own combs, if you don't have access to a cnc platform used with a laser and/or a waterjet, as long as you're good with either cad tools or a drawing program like Adobe Illustrator, you can pretty much outsource your jobs to online vendors. I've gotten good results from *Ponoko* for most of my acrylic needs, and *Big Blue Saw* for my aluminum work. Fairly quick turnarounds in both cases, and the one time I needed CS from Big Blue Saw they were quick to address the issue. Ponoko did the combs for me pictured below, and as you can see the resolution of their cutter ain't bad at all:


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> It's a 8 pin PCIE cable. I do it that way because it's easier for me to splice them together instead of trying put both wires into the terminal.


I don't understand what extra wire you would need. Can you post a pic of the full cable please.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> I don't understand what extra wire you would need. Can you post a pic of the full cable please.


Do you still have the stock cables that came with your PSU? Look at their connectors and you'll note that in some cases, two wires are going into the same pin. They're crimped that way (dual wires into one terminal) by manufacturers using machine crimpers which are equipped to do jobs like that. If you try to do it yourself using hand crimpers, especially if you're after the "sans heatshrink" look, you might find it difficult to do so if not impossible, and still achieve that perfect crimp; hence, the *Lutro0 approach* to soldering doubled wires together shy of connector housings, in-turn having a need to crimp a terminal onto only one wire. A number of people prefer Luto0's method to that of Shakmod's, who began the thread to the link I mentioned.


----------



## jleslie246

Ok but I don't see a need for two wires into one pin for a 8 pin pice cable. That's why I asked to see the whole cable. Where is that second wire going?


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Ok but I don't see a need for two wires into one pin for a 8 pin pice cable. That's why I asked to see the whole cable. Where is that second wire going?


That's how they work. I already installed it so I don't want to take it back out. A 8 pin pcie cable has two extra grounds that a 6 pin doesn't have so you need two more wires that are grounds. You can't do a 1-to-1 with a psu since only one of those outputs is ground, so you take it from the ground and split it to two wires. If you've seen a 6+2 pcie cable, that wire splits into the last two that can separate from the larger 6 pin part. Sometimes you see them made with the two extra being taken from the 6 pin cable at the gpu instead of from the psu, but most people like taking it from there since it winds up looking nicer at the gpu.


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> The PA-09 works well on smaller terminals, Based on some of the comments. The Pad version works even better.
> 
> I haven't gotten it yet, unfortunately there only two shipping methods Fed-Ex Ground or USPS Ground (it's shipped from West Cost & I'm on the east coast).
> 
> It comes will all the dies, since I would need 12 + 11 die. If you buy the one die separate & buy PAD-11 / PAD-13. It's just about the same price as the complete set. It's around 30 dollars per die. PAD-11/13 is about 70 dollars from Amazon. I wanted die 13 just in-case I need to crimp larger terminals. I couldn't find any place that sells just PAD-12 only Pad-11 or Pad-13.
> I got it for 93 dollars + Shipping. It's the cheapest I have found it for. Most places are charging 130+ dollars for it. It's bit more expensive then most decent crimpers like MDPC-X. Since it does a better job, I think it's worth the extra money.
> Nope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There fine, I don't think I would use them due to the style & color. As long as there a good hold on the sleeving, I don't see any kind of problem using them. I'm currently using Carbon Fiber cable combs & I really like how they look. Plus they will not break. I assume those combs are made from Aluminum? They look similar to material MNPCTech uses for there cable combs.


With that money I think you could've come close to affording a budget original Molex crimper.
I personally have an Engineer (i think the pa-21?) and I find crimping without any spring-ratchet mechanism an INCREDIBLE pain.
It is a very well done tool for what I payed for it, no doubt. If you can apply - and dose - the correct amount of strength required, it does a great job.

Now, I might be biased because I do it almost daily, but in my opinion cable-making and sleeving are quite the tedious and hand-wrecking jobs with "standard" tools. I find myself all the time looking for ways to speed up productivity and comfort without sacrificing quality; I believe there's very few people in the world that actually enjoy taking so many hours to finish just a few basic cables, and the less time you need the better it is.

Engineer crimpers just mutilate your productivity and stamina for a result that is not worth it for me. I agree with Lady Fitzgerald, the "perfect" looking crimp is not always the best one. I'm a relatively strong man and I personally don't have the hand strength to make a secure crimp with my Engineer 192 times per set.

In my experience, the correct choice of high quality pins and crimping in the right spot of the stripped cable are much more important variables.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> With that money I think you could've come close to affording a budget original Molex crimper.


*Yup*.


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> That's how they work. I already installed it so I don't want to take it back out. A 8 pin pcie cable has two extra grounds that a 6 pin doesn't have so you need two more wires that are grounds. You can't do a 1-to-1 with a psu since only one of those outputs is ground, so you take it from the ground and split it to two wires. If you've seen a 6+2 pcie cable, that wire splits into the last two that can separate from the larger 6 pin part. Sometimes you see them made with the two extra being taken from the 6 pin cable at the gpu instead of from the psu, but most people like taking it from there since it winds up looking nicer at the gpu.


On PSUs where 8pin PCIE outlets are a row of 4 12V pins and a row of 4 Ground pins, so that you can choose which Ground wire to double for an 8pin GPU connection, there is a way of doubling the wire at the PSU connector without creating a visible sign of it in the form of extra wires or bits of heatshrink. You have to be very careful, however, to make sure that the 12V and Ground pins at the outlet are configured as I described.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> On PSUs where 8pin PCIE outlets are a row of 4 12V pins and a row of 4 Ground pins, so that you can choose which Ground wire to double for an 8pin GPU connection, there is a way of doubling the wire at the PSU connector without creating a visible sign of it in the form of extra wires or bits of heatshrink. You have to be very careful, however, to make sure that the 12V and Ground pins at the outlet are configured as I described.


Thanks for sharing. I'll have to remember that for next time. I have a psu shroud that will block it all now.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> On PSUs where 8pin PCIE outlets are a row of 4 12V pins and a row of 4 Ground pins, so that you can choose which Ground wire to double for an 8pin GPU connection, there is a way of doubling the wire at the PSU connector without creating a visible sign of it in the form of extra wires or bits of heatshrink. You have to be very careful, however, to make sure that the 12V and Ground pins at the outlet are configured as I described.


Interesting. Do you know if this is limited to the AX Corsair and Seasonic X PSU lines (I read your linked post)?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> I finally pulled the trigger & upgraded to a better crimper. MDPC-X is still a very good crimper, It was just giving me problems with certain terminals (Mainly the smaller terminals).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> How do you like that crimper so far? I have the PA-21 that works really well on smaller terminals, but tends to bend Mini-Fit Jr because of the narrow jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> The PA-09 works well on smaller terminals, Based on some of the comments. The Pad version works even better.
> 
> I haven't gotten it yet, unfortunately there only two shipping methods Fed-Ex Ground or USPS Ground (it's shipped from West Cost & I'm on the east coast).
> 
> It comes will all the dies, since I would need 12 + 11 die. If you buy the one die separate & buy PAD-11 / PAD-13. It's just about the same price as the complete set. It's around 30 dollars per die. PAD-11/13 is about 70 dollars from Amazon. I wanted die 13 just in-case I need to crimp larger terminals. I couldn't find any place that sells just PAD-12 only Pad-11 or Pad-13.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> How much was that?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I got it for 93 dollars + Shipping. It's the cheapest I have found it for. Most places are charging 130+ dollars for it. It's bit more expensive then most decent crimpers like MDPC-X. Since it does a better job, I think it's worth the extra money.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> You are still missing the point.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Nope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> Everyone knows about open or closed combs? right?
> 
> what do people think of these? half open & closed? good idea or what? opinions count so let me know?
> 
> thx guys:thumb:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> There fine, I don't think I would use them due to the style & color. As long as there a good hold on the sleeving, I don't see any kind of problem using them. I'm currently using Carbon Fiber cable combs & I really like how they look. Plus they will not break. I assume those combs are made from Aluminum? They look similar to material MNPCTech uses for there cable combs.
Click to expand...

Wow I would of bought that had I known
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> With that money I think you could've come close to affording a budget original Molex crimper.
> 
> 
> 
> *Yup*.
Click to expand...

But the engineer can do different pins. That said no reason you can't buy both ( and I might )


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> That's how they work. I already installed it so I don't want to take it back out. A 8 pin pcie cable has two extra grounds that a 6 pin doesn't have so you need two more wires that are grounds. You can't do a 1-to-1 with a psu since only one of those outputs is ground, so you take it from the ground and split it to two wires. If you've seen a 6+2 pcie cable, that wire splits into the last two that can separate from the larger 6 pin part. Sometimes you see them made with the two extra being taken from the 6 pin cable at the gpu instead of from the psu, but most people like taking it from there since it winds up looking nicer at the gpu.


Ok. It depends on your psu then. My evga has an 8 pin output for vga (4 rows +, 4 rows -).


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Interesting. Do you know if this is limited to the AX Corsair and Seasonic X PSU lines (I read your linked post)?


Sorry, having settled for Seasonic X850/KM3 PSUs for ATX builds on a permanent basis its not something I have researched. However, there is a OEM Platform element in the RealHardTech PSU Review Database tables which may indicate what arrangement other PSUs use.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> With that money I think you could've come close to affording a budget original Molex crimper.
> I personally have an Engineer (i think the pa-21?) and I find crimping without any spring-ratchet mechanism an INCREDIBLE pain.
> It is a very well done tool for what I payed for it, no doubt. If you can apply - and dose - the correct amount of strength required, it does a great job.
> 
> Now, I might be biased because I do it almost daily, but in my opinion cable-making and sleeving are quite the tedious and hand-wrecking jobs with "standard" tools. I find myself all the time looking for ways to speed up productivity and comfort without sacrificing quality; I believe there's very few people in the world that actually enjoy taking so many hours to finish just a few basic cables, and the less time you need the better it is.
> 
> Engineer crimpers just mutilate your productivity and stamina for a result that is not worth it for me. I agree with Lady Fitzgerald, the "perfect" looking crimp is not always the best one. I'm a relatively strong man and I personally don't have the hand strength to make a secure crimp with my Engineer 192 times per set.
> 
> In my experience, the correct choice of high quality pins and crimping in the right spot of the stripped cable are much more important variables.


- I wouldn't go with budget crimpers. With Molex crimper you need one to cover Mini Fit Jr and another one to cover Dupont. That's 276 + 376 dollars just for the crimpers.
- Engineer crimpers require very little strength to create a crimp. It even states on the package do not apply force when crimping. It requires less strength then MDPC-X crimper. Never used molex crimper so I can't comment on amount of strength required to use those.
- If you do the same thing over and Over everyday. Of course it's going to get tedious and boring. The method I came up with has worked very well & still up to my quality(I'm Super OCD about what my wiring & sleeving looks like).


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> It's a 8 pin PCIE cable. I do it that way because it's easier for me to splice them together instead of trying put both wires into the terminal.


- I would re-check that connector, it looks like EPS not PCie.
- Why would you need to splice them together? Unless you have one of those strange PSU that require double wires for PCie cable or your doubling the connector at the one side.
- You might want to clean up the one sleeved wire, It's very stretched out.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> *Yup*.


I have both of the Molex brand crimpers (service grade 64016-0200 and premium grade 63819-0900) and there's a big difference between the two.

Molex 64016-0200 Service Grade Crimper:
• Difficult to position the pin in the jaws. The locator is useless and it's hard to see the pin.
• Crimper is large and cumbersome.
• No preload adjustment (crimp force).
• Rated for 1000 cycles.
• Typically runs around $125.

Molex 63819-0900 Premium Grade Crimper:
• Locator positions pin and wire automatically. You get perfect crimps every time.
• Compact and easy to use.
• Preload (crimp force) is easily adjusted by turning dial (10 settings).
• Can be converted to left hand use.
• Rated for 50,000 cycles.
• Typically runs around $275.

Here's a side by side to get an idea of the difference in size:

Keep an eye on eBay as you can find good deals. I was able to get the premium grade crimper (new in box) for $110.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Im currently making my GPU cables, one 6 pin and one 8 pin. Will they both be right just wiring straight across (connector to connector)? It looks like the 6 pin will work this way but the 8 pin will require crossing some wires. I have not seen any wiring diagrams to confirm this. Only connector pinouts that make me cross eyed


Do you still have your original cables that you can use as a reference? The position of the wires is important and if you get it wrong, you risk damaging your components.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> - I would re-check that connector, it looks like EPS not PCie.
> - Why would you need to splice them together? Unless you have one of those strange PSU that require double wires for PCie cable or your doubling the connector at the one side.
> - You might want to clean up the one sleeved wire, It's very stretched out.


It's not EPS. The PSU side for EPS and PCIE look identical because that's how they made the PSU; the power ports are interchangeable. It's not even an EPS plug that you see, it's a proprietary plug that Corsair makes that only fits into the psu. I had to steal it off of my old premade cables because I couldn't find it anywhere. It may look like EPS on the outside, but the plug configuration is different.

It needs to be spliced because that's how it works on my psu.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> It's not EPS. The PSU side for EPS and PCIE look identical because that's how they made the PSU; the power ports are interchangeable. It's not even an EPS plug that you see, it's a proprietary plug that Corsair makes that only fits into the psu. I had to steal it off of my old premade cables because I couldn't find it anywhere. It may look like EPS on the outside, but the plug configuration is different.
> 
> It needs to be spliced because that's how it works on my psu.


Leave it to corsair to make things more difficult then they should.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> I have both of the Molex brand crimpers (service grade 64016-0200 and premium grade 63819-0900) and there's a big difference between the two.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Molex 64016-0200 Service Grade Crimper:
> • Difficult to position the pin in the jaws. The locator is useless and it's hard to see the pin.
> • Crimper is large and cumbersome.
> • No preload adjustment (crimp force).
> • Rated for 1000 cycles.
> • Typically runs around $125.
> 
> Molex 63819-0900 Premium Grade Crimper:
> • Locator positions pin and wire automatically. You get perfect crimps every time.
> • Compact and easy to use.
> • Preload (crimp force) is easily adjusted by turning dial (10 settings).
> • Can be converted to left hand use.
> • Rated for 50,000 cycles.
> • Typically runs around $275.
> 
> Here's a side by side to get an idea of the difference in size:
> 
> 
> 
> Keep an eye on eBay as you can find good deals. I was able to get the premium grade crimper (new in box) for $110.


Understood, and thanks for sharing your experiences. You can source cheaper prices for the pro version as well through Octoparts. A few vendors listed there are selling them in the $220-$230 range. I'll probably be buying a pair next week myself.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Leave it to corsair to make things more difficult then they should.


My EVGA 8 pin PCIe connectors look like the one on the left. Does anyone have a wiring diagram like the one Inelastic posted but for EVGA 1300? I have my cables built but I want to confirm they are correct.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Do you still have your original cables that you can use as a reference? The position of the wires is important and if you get it wrong, you risk damaging your components.


Yes I have several. They seem random. A ground is a ground, 12v is 12V. Unless they are doing some sensing on particular pins? I wanted to simplify the setup and just go straight across like the 6 pin does if possible. Otherwise the wires on the 8pin will be crossing all over the place.

It looks like i just move the 3 + wires over and cross one - wire from one end to the other.


UPDATE: This works. Its in my system now.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> My EVGA 8 pin PCIe connectors look like the one on the left. Does anyone have a wiring diagram like the one Inelastic posted but for EVGA 1300? I have my cables built but I want to confirm they are correct.


EVGA uses normal connectors, What series? P2 & T2 are basically all the same. You can use the photos from the pin layout thread.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> EVGA uses normal connectors, What series? P2 & T2 are basically all the same. You can use the photos from the pin layout thread.


1300 G2. Id love to swap someone for an 850. Its length is making things dificult in my case. I got it to run 3 780's but never got the 3rd.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> - I would re-check that connector, it looks like EPS not PCie.
> - Why would you need to splice them together? Unless you have one of those strange PSU that require double wires for PCie cable or your doubling the connector at the one side.
> - You might want to clean up the one sleeved wire, It's very stretched out.
> 
> 
> 
> It's not EPS. The PSU side for EPS and PCIE look identical because that's how they made the PSU; the power ports are interchangeable. It's not even an EPS plug that you see, it's a proprietary plug that Corsair makes that only fits into the psu. I had to steal it off of my old premade cables because I couldn't find it anywhere. It may look like EPS on the outside, but the plug configuration is different.
> 
> It needs to be spliced because that's how it works on my psu.
Click to expand...

i would recommend picking up a cheap ( for what oyu need you dont need a fluke ) DMM and learning how to use it

i bet you didnt have to do the splice but i could be wrong but the above may make your life simpler.

unless using a railed psu ( most psus that most need should not need multiple rails ( less then 650 w - imo ) he is right 12v, 5v, ground, are all the same !!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> My EVGA 8 pin PCIe connectors look like the one on the left. Does anyone have a wiring diagram like the one Inelastic posted but for EVGA 1300? I have my cables built but I want to confirm they are correct.
> 
> 
> 
> EVGA uses normal connectors, What series? P2 & T2 are basically all the same. You can use the photos from the pin layout thread.
Click to expand...

some dont - osme use the special superflower connectors


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i would recommend picking up a cheap ( for what oyu need you dont need a fluke ) DMM and learning how to use it
> 
> i bet you didnt have to do the splice but i could be wrong but the above may make your life simpler.
> 
> unless using a railed psu ( most psus that most need should not need multiple rails ( less then 650 w - imo ) he is right 12v, 5v, ground, are all the same !!


I do have one and know how to use it. However, I don't need a DMM to figure it out since that diagram I posted tells everything. Since the EPS and PCIE plug into the same ports, I know that the arrangement on the psu side is 4 12V and 4 ground just by looking at the wiring for the EPS. But the PCIE is 3 ground, 2 sensing, and 3 12V with the 2 sensing going to ground for a total of 5 ground and 3 12V for my psu. Hence the reason for splicing the one ground into two and leaving the one 12V empty on the psu plug. Yes, I didn't have to splice the wire. I could have done the method @Himo5 showed or even used a second plug for the 5th ground wire. It would have taken longer for me to do the other methods since I would have had to learn a new one or have to spend the time hunting down my old cables to get that Corsair plug.

Actually, I didn't even make that spliced cable this time since the only thing I did was replace the four inner cables from red sleeving to the gray sleeving. I initially made cables a few years ago for a red/black themed build and just followed exactly what Corsair did with their cables. I was being lazy this time around. The PCIE and EPS cables were like that (only having to replace half of the wires), but I did have to remake the entire ATX one since I needed it to be longer.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> It needs to be spliced because that's how it works on my psu.


Question: did you make that diagram yourself?


----------



## Mega Man

either way as long ass your happy that is what counts [email protected]


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> 1300 G2. Id love to swap someone for an 850. Its length is making things dificult in my case. I got it to run 3 780's but never got the 3rd.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1420796/repository-of-power-supply-pin-outs

The first one listed will work for G2 1300.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> some dont - osme use the special superflower connectors


I'm basing it off the P2 & T2 lines. Basically anything I have used in the past.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Question: did you make that diagram yourself?


No, The photo is from this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1420796/repository-of-power-supply-pin-outs

It's under Corsair AX1200.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1420796/repository-of-power-supply-pin-outs
> 
> The first one listed will work for G2 1300.
> I'm basing it off the P2 & T2 lines. Basically anything I have used in the past.


Im just doing GPU 6 and 8 pin cables right now.


----------



## jleslie246

Does anyone know if EVGA powersupplys use the 'sense A' and 'sense B' pins? Or are they all just GND and 12V? I need to know for the 1300G2, 650 G2 and the 850 G3 asap.

Thank you.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Im just doing GPU 6 and 8 pin cables right now.


----------



## WalkingCorpse

Just finished my ATX cables, so here's some glamour shots in-situ

 

 

 



All with MNPCTECH Billet Combs

https://mnpctech.com/buy-stealth-cable-combs-for-pcs/


----------



## msd0

Nice job on the cables!


----------



## Bill Owen

love that color combo


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> I finally pulled the trigger & upgraded to a better crimper. MDPC-X is still a very good crimper, It was just giving me problems with certain terminals (Mainly the smaller terminals).





*Note* I didn't crimp the second crimp point on one of the terminals. You can just ignore that. I was just testing how it pinches the wiring.

Here is some real quick crimped terminals I did while testing out the tool. One terminal is from JMT (Short version) & other terminal is from Ice-Modz.. The one wire is from Mod-One & other wire is from AlphaWire.

I really like this tool, it's better than anything I have used so far.


----------



## iamjanco

Crimp tool arrived.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Crimp tool arrived.


Nice, have you had a chance to try it out yet?


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Nice, have you had a chance to try it out yet?


Not yet, been trying to work on my pre-cabling continuity checks. Will have a go at it in the few days to make sure it's in order though.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Not yet, been trying to work on my pre-cabling continuity checks. Will have a go at it in the few days to make sure it's in order though.


The insulation crimp might look a little different from what you normally see. Molex switched to an overlap crimp which doesn't pierce the insulation.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> The insulation crimp might look a little different from what you normally see. Molex switched to an overlap crimp which doesn't pierce the insulation.


Thanks, I'll check it out and touch base here if I've got any questions or comments.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> I finally pulled the trigger & upgraded to a better crimper. MDPC-X is still a very good crimper, It was just giving me problems with certain terminals (Mainly the smaller terminals).


First Real crimps from the new tool


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> I finally pulled the trigger & upgraded to a better crimper. MDPC-X is still a very good crimper, It was just giving me problems with certain terminals (Mainly the smaller terminals).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Note* I didn't crimp the second crimp point on one of the terminals. You can just ignore that. I was just testing how it pinches the wiring.
> 
> Here is some real quick crimped terminals I did while testing out the tool. One terminal is from JMT (Short version) & other terminal is from Ice-Modz.. The one wire is from Mod-One & other wire is from AlphaWire.
> 
> I really like this tool, it's better than anything I have used so far.
Click to expand...

Ya its been my fave far more then any ratchet crimper

Really digging that case.


----------



## jlakai

Engineer crimpers are the best by far. I never understood the need for such heavy and bulky ratcheting crimpers.


----------



## SHNS0

Oh well if there's so many people who really like it, I guess I have to give it a second try







at least for my personal works where I don't have time constraints


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> Engineer crimpers are the best by far. I never understood the need for such heavy and bulky ratcheting crimpers.


Some buy since sleeving shop sells it & other buy since it crimps both crimp points at the same time.

----

Anyone have photo or could post of a fully crimped photo of Molex Brand dupont terminal with 22 AWG wiring? I'm having a bit of trouble of crimping the terminal with 22 AWG wiring. I have the thinnest wiring mouser sells in the 22 AWG range. It just seem the terminal is pinching the wiring way to much.

This is the what I have: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/16-02-1124-Cut-Strip/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs%252bGHln7q6pm7bTr5iUP1qYx8IAfK8cmBaDNn6X%2fgj3ww%3d%3d

When Crimping this is what they turn out like:


----------



## Revan654

I bought this little device the other day. Since I was stick of buying lighters. It also has a addon tip for a Hot knife & can be used for soldering Plus many other applications. Well worth the price I paid for it plus it comes from Dremel. You know it's going to last & has high quality parts in it.



I originally had this device, However it broke within three hours of using it. For the price they charge for it I thought it would have been higher quality.


----------



## msd0

Blazer makes good torches as well. This one's (GB2001) is at least 5 years old and still works like new.


----------



## Revan654

I just noticed that Ice-modz has officially closed


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I just noticed that Ice-modz has officially closed


Sure looks like it, shame. They did great work. The Modders' services and supplies businesses are apparently pretty tough ones to be in, especially when you consider how demanding some "enthusiasts" can be. Wouldn't want to pursue it myself.

Long day again today and a deadline has been moved up to the July 4th weekend for a BigCommerce related project I'm the developer for. I'll get to those crimping examples NLT this weekend though.


----------



## msd0

Any of you guys use clear heatshrink? I just started using it and it takes the guesswork out of melting the sleeve.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Any of you guys use clear heatshrink? I just started using it and it takes the guesswork out of melting the sleeve.


Curious. Where do you get it?


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Curious. Where do you get it?


I got it at wirecare
https://www.wirecare.com/category/heatshrink-tubing/heatshrink-tubing-general-purpose/3-1-polyolefin-general-purpose/h3n0.25cl-shrinkflex-polyolefin-heatshrink-tubing-3-1-1-4-clear-1-ft-cuts


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Curious. Where do you get it?
> 
> 
> 
> I got it at wirecare
> https://www.wirecare.com/category/heatshrink-tubing/heatshrink-tubing-general-purpose/3-1-polyolefin-general-purpose/h3n0.25cl-shrinkflex-polyolefin-heatshrink-tubing-3-1-1-4-clear-1-ft-cuts
Click to expand...

Thanks!


----------



## lowfat

Does the clear heatshrink turn black and bubble when you take a torch to it?


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Does the clear heatshrink turn black and bubble when you take a torch to it?


It might with a regular lighter, but a torch doesn't. I just do a couple quick passes over the heatshrink and use the cooler blue part of the flame. If it starts to burn, I let it cool a couple of seconds before continuing.


http://imgur.com/KiB2f


----------



## Himo5

I use 6mm OD 3/1 transparent heat shrink mostly from ModDiy but I've also got it from various suppliers on Ebay.

It's slightly opaque until you get it hot enough to shrink and then it goes fully transparent and then stays that way.

For this reason I find it great for hooding fan, audio and USB header connectors since it indicates when the longer heating/burning time required for 3/1 heat shrink has been reached.

Not only does it stand up to heatgun or lighter as well as other heat shrink but it is also tough enough to take the stretch to get it over the connector and still get a tight fit over the cable and the wires as they spread into the connector.

This makes it ideal for supplying a reliable hooded grip for connecting/disconnecting cables that are not single sleeved.


----------



## msd0

Speaking of heatshrink, I always hear about people burning their fingers and compressing the heatshrink, but I've never seen the need to. The heatshrink seems to work fine on its own. If the sleeve isn't firmly attached, I just repeat the process.


----------



## lowfat

I never pinch down on the wires. Don't see it being necessary. I also use zipties to hold the sleeving tight.

I went and ordered a bunch of clear heatshrink from Aliexpress to test.


----------



## Himo5

The only reason I know of to press down on heat shrink while it is still hot is to shape the sleeve underneath around the pin before it solidifies again during the Heatshrinkless Method.

This definitely is a pain that everyone tries to find some way round at one time or another.

The trick I sometimes try is to use an old crimping plier but the business of picking it up and getting it in position before the plastic cools always sends me back to punishing the fingers.



One time I'd been using superglue on a project and got it smeared over my fingertips and the way it dried out and hardened provided the best way of shaping the melt - though I've never done that deliberately.

Incidentally, I have this crimping plier for shortening small screws with the bolt cutter but when I tried to get a UNC version recently it wasn't threaded, which is no good at all.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> The only reason I know of to press down on heat shrink while it is still hot is to shape the sleeve underneath around the pin before it solidifies again during the Heatshrinkless Method.
> 
> This definitely is a pain that everyone tries to find some way round at one time or another.
> 
> The trick I sometimes try is to use an old crimping plier but the business of picking it up and getting it in position before the plastic cools always sends me back to punishing the fingers.
> 
> 
> 
> One time I'd been using superglue on a project and got it smeared over my fingertips and the way it dried out and hardened provided the best way of shaping the melt - though I've never done that deliberately.
> 
> Incidentally, I have this crimping plier for shortening small screws with the bolt cutter but when I tried to get a UNC version recently it wasn't threaded, which is no good at all.


My Waldom crimpers (similar to the one you pictured only it's designed for crimping computer connector pins instead of insulated automotive style terminals) also has the screw cutters. Anymore now, the only time I use the Waldoms (I have two pair since they can be hard to find if I manage to break one) is to cut screws. Their holes are also threaded.


----------



## lowfat

I always use superglue if I'm not going a heatshrinkless sleeve. Like for fans or whatever. I put a drop or two underneath the sleeving so if I pull the sleeve tight at the other end it doesn't slip out. Works awesome.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I always use superglue if I'm not going a heatshrinkless sleeve. Like for fans or whatever. I put a drop or two underneath the sleeving so if I pull the sleeve tight at the other end it doesn't slip out. Works awesome.


or just get Heatshrink that is adhesive.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> or just get Heatshrink that is adhesive.


Adhesive heatshrink is nasty. Its too thick and it oozes everywhere. A drop or two of superglue isn't ever visible.


----------



## Mega Man

i need to start buying superglue ! - i have a sad confession. i prefer the look of 16ga vs 18 ga :/


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Adhesive heatshrink is nasty. Its too thick and it oozes everywhere. A drop or two of superglue isn't ever visible.


It only oozes if you overheat it. I use them on my Sata, USB, Fan, etc... all look perfect. You might just got some junk heatshrink.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i need to start buying superglue ! - i have a sad confession. i prefer the look of 16ga vs 18 ga :/


I prefer 16AWG as well, Some 16AWG(2.4mm+ wiring) is a PIA to get into the connector. You can only create a very tiny melting point on the sleeving, to much & it will not go in. Not to mention allot of Terminals sleeving shops sell are for 2mm wiring.

I recently switched back to 2mm wiring. Some of the terminals I have would not fit around the 2.4mm wiring. I don't fell like waiting another 2 weeks for a new order of terminals.

Quick Question: Anyone know if I can use AlphaWire EcoWire for Fans & usb cable creations without any issues? The only difference I see from EcoWire to normal wiring is Insulation Material. Ecowire uses mPPE instead of PVC. Plus the one I link is rated for 600v, There also a 300v version.

Link: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=6713_BK005virtualkey60200000virtualkey602-6713-100-02


----------



## Mega Man

no idea :/


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> The insulation crimp might look a little different from what you normally see. Molex switched to an overlap crimp which doesn't pierce the insulation.


So I finally got around to testing the Molex crimper, which may need further adjustment. Do you have any images (closeups would be even better) of examples of the overlap crimp over the insulation that you referred to above?

I also tested the HT-208A that's designed for "Dupont" terminals and I'm pretty happy with the initial results I got using it, though I've also got to adjust my stripper a bit.

I'll add some pix of the the results for both once I set up a different camera on a tripod. The pix I got using my cell phone didn't turn out very well.

Edit: lol, over the years I've grown so accustomed to doing certain things certain ways, I forgot that sometimes it pays to read the instructions. At least in the case of the newer model 63818-0900H crimper, that is:


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> or just get Heatshrink that is adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> Adhesive heatshrink is nasty. Its too thick and it oozes everywhere. A drop or two of superglue isn't ever visible.
Click to expand...

It depends on the heat shrink. Some use more mastic (technically, a hot melt adhesive) than others use and have thinner walls. The stuff that's intended for outdoor or wet conditions use will be thicker and have more mastic lining the inside, like the large shrinks that are used for underground power line construction. The linemen would replace a shrink that didn't ooze some of the mastic at both ends when heated and shrunk.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> So I finally got around to testing the Molex crimper, which may need further adjustment. Do you have any images (closeups would be even better) of examples of the overlap crimp over the insulation that you referred to above?
> 
> I also tested the HT-208A that's designed for "Dupont" terminals and I'm pretty happy with the initial results I got using it, though I've also got to adjust my stripper a bit.
> 
> I'll add some pix of the the results for both once I set up a different camera on a tripod. The pix I got using my cell phone didn't turn out very well.
> 
> Edit: lol, over the years I've grown so accustomed to doing certain things certain ways, I forgot that sometimes it pays to read the instructions. At least in the case of the newer model 63818-0900H crimper, that is:


*Quoted from Matt's Tech Pages* (underlined emphasis mine):

*Crimped Mini-Fit Jr terminals*
Quote:


> Left is a terminal crimped with the Engineer PA-21. Pretty good really, about the same result as the budget Molex tool would produce, albeit with less ability to apply the minimum recommended crimping force.
> 
> On the right is a terminal crimped with the original tool, the big difference is that the insulation crimp is cleanly wrapped around the wire, whereas on the budget tool, and on generic tools, the insulation crimp has ended up piercing the insulation, which is technically a less robust result.


My takeaway from Matt's info is that piercing the insulation when crimping makes for a less robust result.

Another two edits:

Made a quick composite of the mini-fit jr crimp using the Molex 63819-0900H crimp tool with 18awg wire supplied by ModOne, and Molex tin-plated 18-24awg 39000039 terminal (very rough composite):



Examples of the the job the HT-208a did on the Mini-pv terminals:


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> *Quoted from Matt's Tech Pages* (underlined emphasis mine):
> 
> *Crimped Mini-Fit Jr terminals*
> My takeaway from Matt's info is that piercing the insulation when crimping makes for a less robust result.


Yea, it looks a little strange at first, but the insulation crimp is really just a strain relief and doesn't need to pierce the insulation.


http://imgur.com/zrXEK


----------



## msd0

In case anyone's interested, here's the difference between the Molex Premium Grade and Service Grade crimpers.


http://imgur.com/BNRPc


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Yea, it looks a little strange at first, but the insulation crimp is really just a strain relief and doesn't need to pierce the insulation.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/zrXEK


Thanks for that. I went back to my previous post and *added rough examples* of the jobs the Molex and Berg crimpers did for me.


----------



## Revan654

These are ones I did awhile back with engineer tool, There very rough. These also have expanded wing. I personally like how these look compared to anything else I have seen(One first ones I did, Force may be a bit much in the Picture).



Here is a quick look at Short version:



btw, Anyone having issues with the site currently or over the weekend? It seem it's taking much longer then usual for the site to load.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> ...btw, Anyone having issues with the site currently or over the weekend? It seem it's taking much longer then usual for the site to load.


I've notice the same thing, especially right now.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Thanks for that. I went back to my previous post and *added rough examples* of the jobs the Molex and Berg crimpers did for me.


On some of the 16AWG wire with thin insulation, I've found that the 18AWG profile works well. You might have to change the preload or manually release the crimper though.


http://imgur.com/XkvGq


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> On some of the 16AWG wire with thin insulation, I've found that the 18AWG profile works well. You might have to change the preload or manually release the crimper though.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/XkvGq


Yeah, I noticed that when I was moving between the wire I got from ModOne and the FEP I got from Moddiy, as well as between the 18awg and 16awg Molex branded terminals. The FEP's insulation is fairly thin, and that wire (16awg) works out to just over to 2mm in diameter, including the insulation.

Is that solder on your crimped wires?


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Yeah, I noticed that when I was moving between the wire I got from ModOne and the FEP I got from Moddiy, as well as between the 18awg and 16awg Molex branded terminals. The FEP's insulation is fairly thin, and that wire (16awg) works out to just over to 2mm in diameter, including the insulation.
> 
> Is that solder on your crimped wires?


No solder, just an artifact from my cheap dino-lite.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> No solder, just an artifact from my cheap dino-lite.


Ah, okay. I did take note of the comparison using the 16awg in both profiles. Thanks for that (repped).


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> In case anyone's interested, here's the difference between the Molex Premium Grade and Service Grade crimpers.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/BNRPc


A SN-28B does a better job than that budget one, holy hell.
How do you even get away with asking 100+$ for a tool that works this way.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> A SN-28B does a better job than that budget one, holy hell.
> How do you even get away with asking 100+$ for a tool that works this way.


Yea, I was kind if surprised how poorly it crimps the insulation. The locator (positions the wire in the terminal) didn't work at all either.


----------



## iamjanco

Some additional links pertaining to quality crimping, including *one that I posted earlier* in the PC Crimping Part Numbers thread, which some may find useful/interesting (again, should make for good reads for most):


*Molex QUALITY CRIMPING HANDBOOK*, Order No: TM-638000029 Revision: D, Release Date: 09-04-03, Revision Date: 12-23-09, UNCONTROLLED COPY (PDF, Molex)
*Hand Crimp Tool, Operating Instruction and Specification Sheet*, Order No. 11-01-0193 (CR5904) Revision: E, Release Date: 04-13-93, Revision Date: 07-28-04, UNCONTROLLED COPY (PDF, Molex version of the SN-28B crimper)
*Good Crimps and How to Recognize Them* (Molex, simple HTML notes)
*Quality Crimping Handbook*, Produced by the Application Tooling Group (an earlier. released version of the handbook linked to above, Molex, PDF)
*The Good Crimping Guide Solderless Termination Training Manual* (TE/AMP, PDF)
*Crimp Tooling - Where Form Meets Function* (TE/AMP, PDF)
*Crimping Electronics Connectors (Dupont, PH, XH, VH, KF2510)* -- (working with non-pro tools, a couple of good tips; HTML)


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Yea, I was kind if surprised how poorly it crimps the insulation. The locator (positions the wire in the terminal) didn't work at all either.


I think the issue in question here is more one of form over function (or vice versa, depending on your perspective). By that, I mean that Molex considers a good (correct) crimp to include gripping the insulation at least 180 degrees without piercing the insulation, done using a crimper that allows an insulation crimp height to be adjusted independently of the conductor crimp height.

They're spec'ing for proper crimps, while your typical modder is looking for something a bit more, and I agree that if you can achieve that using tools like the SN-28B, PA-09, etc., I'd say have at it. While it may seem like Molex crimpers produce poorer quality crimps, one probably needs to remember that crimps spec'd to their requirements are likely used in military aircraft (been there, done that) and perhaps even space vehicles/equipment.

When in doubt though, trust ghost busters.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Some additional links pertaining to quality crimping, including *one that I posted earlier* on in the PC Crimping Part Numbers thread, which some may find useful/interesting (again, should make for good reads for most):
> 
> 
> *Molex QUALITY CRIMPING HANDBOOK*, Order No: TM-638000029 Revision: D, Release Date: 09-04-03, Revision Date: 12-23-09, UNCONTROLLED COPY (PDF, Molex)
> *Hand Crimp Tool, Operating Instruction and Specification Sheet*, Order No. 11-01-0193 (CR5904) Revision: E, Release Date: 04-13-93, Revision Date: 07-28-04, UNCONTROLLED COPY (PDF, Molex version of the SN-28B crimper)
> *Good Crimps and How to Recognize Them* (Molex, simple HTML notes)
> *Quality Crimping Handbook*, Produced by the Application Tooling Group (an earlier. released version of the handbook linked to above, Molex, PDF)
> *The Good Crimping Guide Solderless Termination Training Manual* (TE/AMP, PDF)
> *Crimp Tooling - Where Form Meets Function* (TE/AMP, PDF)
> *Crimping Electronics Connectors (Dupont, PH, XH, VH, KF2510)* -- (working with non-pro tools, a couple of good tips; HTML)


Great info here iamjanco! Thank you


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> I think the issue in question here is more one of form over function (or vice versa, depending on your perspective). By that, I mean that Molex considers a good (correct) crimp to include gripping the insulation for at least 180 degrees without piercing the insulation, done using a crimper that allows an insulation crimp height to be adjusted independently of the conductor crimp height.
> 
> They're spec'ing for proper crimps, while your typical modder is looking for something a bit more, and I agree that if you can achieve that using tools like the SN-28B, PA-09, etc., I'd say have at it. While it may seem like Molex crimpers produce poorer quality crimps, one probably needs to remember that crimps spec'd to their requirements are likely used in military aircraft (been there, done that) and perhaps even space vehicles/equipment.
> 
> When in doubt though, trust ghost busters.


Oh, I was just referring to the Service Grade crimper. The Premium Grade crimper does a beautiful job every time.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> First Real crimps from the new tool


This just happened a few hours ago.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> This just happened a few hours ago.


Bummer. Strange that it sheared the head off like that. I wonder if it was over torqued from the factory?


----------



## iamjanco

I was thinking if you can't return it for a replacement, you might be able to fix it if you can use something like a punch to knock the rest of the pin out through the unseen side (if it's not held in by (e.g.) threads), then find something that could work as a suitable substitute at a hardware store. Some sort of pin or assembly that fits fairly snug, while still allowing the action of the grip under the tension of the spring to work properly.

If you go in that direction, make sure to take note of any bushing that might have been used in conjunction with that pin (bolt or whatever). It's a bit difficult to tell what that black circular area inside the hole and surrounding what's left of the "pin" is. Lastly it's also hard to tell from the image, but that does look like some sort of stress fracture, either the result of poor materials and/or design, and/or the application of too much torque while crimping.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

This has nothing to do with the sheared stud but it looks like you used too wide of a slot for crimping the terminal.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> This has nothing to do with the sheared stud but it looks like you used too wide of a slot for crimping the terminal.


No, I followed there crimping guide.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> This has nothing to do with the sheared stud but it looks like you used too wide of a slot for crimping the terminal.
> 
> 
> 
> No, I followed there crimping guide.
Click to expand...

The guide is wrong or was written for a different type terminal or you misread the guide (hey, we all do it as sometime or another). If the slot you used was the correct width, the crimped areas of the terminal would not be flared out so much wider than the width of the insulation.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> The guide is wrong or was written for a different type terminal or you misread the guide (hey, we all do it as sometime or another). If the slot you used was the correct width, the crimped areas of the terminal would not be flared out so much wider than the width of the insulation.


It states for example if the pitch is 3.2 you should use next size up on the die list. I read the guide that came with tool twice just to make sure I didn't miss anything.

If anything it was not written correctly or was poorly translated. The site I bought it from already gave me a full store credit & said if you re-buy the tool again they will cover the tool for one year if anything else happens to it.

I'm thinking of switching to Molex brand tools. There more money buy they crimp properly every time.

Terminal: 39-00-0090
Tool: 63819-0900

Terminal: 08-55-0110
Tool: 63819-0800

Terminal: 16-02-1124
Tool: 63811-8700

Terminal: 67581-0010
Tool: 63823-9900

I assume there is not tool that does both Dupont & Fan terminals?


----------



## homingmystic

I have been enjoying sleeving with Telios, but after two seperate orders from the same store have resulted in different shades of white sleeve. I was just wondering if this is common? I have attached an image to show the first order (left and vibrant white) and the second order (right and darker white).


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homingmystic*
> 
> I have been enjoying sleeving with Telios, but after two seperate orders from the same store have resulted in different shades of white sleeve. I was just wondering if this is common? I have attached an image to show the first order (left and vibrant white) and the second order (right and darker white).


That is not acceptable. I would contact the store and send them this picture. I am sure they will do the right thing.


----------



## homingmystic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> That is not acceptable. I would contact the store and send them this picture. I am sure they will do the right thing.


Exactly, I can't be using them both in my system







They did send a replacement twice ( both were a darker white), but said that the sleeve is from the same reel, and that they can't do anything about it.. Which is why I was curious if anyone else has had this issue, it sucks because I have already finished one cable, and I need more sleeve to finish. They are the only supplier within the UK for Teleios sadly.


----------



## msd0

Does anyone have any good pictures of MDPC-X's Carbon BTI sleeving?


----------



## Rollergold

Has anyone found a supplier of Turquoise or Turquoise-ish cable sleeving ? Been looking around for a while and can't see to find anything like it


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homingmystic*
> 
> I have been enjoying sleeving with Telios, but after two seperate orders from the same store have resulted in different shades of white sleeve. I was just wondering if this is common? I have attached an image to show the first order (left and vibrant white) and the second order (right and darker white).


Teleios sleeve is chinese, that's why








Try MDPC-X next time


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rollergold*
> 
> Has anyone found a supplier of Turquoise or Turquoise-ish cable sleeving ? Been looking around for a while and can't see to find anything like it


mdpc @!

scroll down to see the colors

https://www.cable-sleeving.com/cable-sleeving-small

what i would call turquoise seems to be gone :/ no idea

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *homingmystic*
> 
> I have been enjoying sleeving with Telios, but after two seperate orders from the same store have resulted in different shades of white sleeve. I was just wondering if this is common? I have attached an image to show the first order (left and vibrant white) and the second order (right and darker white).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Teleios sleeve is chinese, that's why
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try MDPC-X next time
Click to expand...

sad but true :/


----------



## jleslie246

do you put a dummy wire in the empty hole on a 24pin atx connector?


----------



## Himo5

You can if you have an unused slot to send it to in the PSU outlet.


----------



## Rollergold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> mdpc @!
> 
> scroll down to see the colors
> 
> https://www.cable-sleeving.com/cable-sleeving-small
> 
> what i would call turquoise seems to be gone :/ no idea
> sad but true :/


Ya I looked at them only Aqua Blue and Dark Blue. Oh well the search goes on.


----------



## lowfat

Since we've been posting crimps I'll post some from my highly used MDPC-X ones. These have crimped 2000+ crimps. This is on some seriously cheap wire from China that I scrapped from something. Have no idea where these crimps are from. I've bought hundreds from many stores and just throw them in the same container.

http://hostthenpost.org

http://hostthenpost.org

http://hostthenpost.org


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homingmystic*
> 
> I have been enjoying sleeving with Telios, but after two seperate orders from the same store have resulted in different shades of white sleeve. I was just wondering if this is common? I have attached an image to show the first order (left and vibrant white) and the second order (right and darker white).


It's one reason why I switched to MDPC-X. I kept getting different sizes with there sleezing. The one batch I got I couldn't even get 18 AWG wiring through the sleeving.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *homingmystic*
> 
> I have been enjoying sleeving with Telios, but after two seperate orders from the same store have resulted in different shades of white sleeve. I was just wondering if this is common? I have attached an image to show the first order (left and vibrant white) and the second order (right and darker white).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's one reason why I switched to MDPC-X. I kept getting different sizes with there *sleezing*. The one batch I got I couldn't even get 18 AWG wiring through the sleeving.
Click to expand...









! If that "typo" wasn't on purpose, it should have been!


----------



## homingmystic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> It's one reason why I switched to MDPC-X. I kept getting different sizes with there sleezing. The one batch I got I couldn't even get 18 AWG wiring through the sleeving.


Damnn that is awful, well looks like I will be re-sleeving my cables







Regarding MDPC-X sleeve what size would you recommend for 18AWG, small?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homingmystic*
> 
> Damnn that is awful, well looks like I will be re-sleeving my cables
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding MDPC-X sleeve what size would you recommend for 18AWG, small?


Small, Medium is designed for front panel or when you want to put multiple wires 18 to 16 AWG for a single sleeve. Medium is good to use when deal with Corsair ribbon style wiring.


----------



## homingmystic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Small, Medium is designed for front panel or when you want to put multiple wires 18 to 16 AWG for a single sleeve. Medium is good to use when deal with Corsair ribbon style wiring.


Ok thanks will get small then for my sleeving. What is typically done when the PSU side has two missing pins for the pci-e? In my case I have the Seasonic X750 and pin 4 & 8 are missing on the PSU side. Can the missing cables be added, but terminated mid way?

I have attached a picture to show the pcie cable for the x750.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Small, Medium is designed for front panel or when you want to put multiple wires 18 to 16 AWG for a single sleeve. Medium is good to use when deal with Corsair ribbon style wiring.


Have you used the special diameter (FP) size sleeving? It's slightly smaller in diameter than the medium size.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Have you used the special diameter (FP) size sleeving? It's slightly smaller in diameter than the medium size.


Yes, I have used them for my Corsair Fans. I should correct what I mean.When I say Medium I mean FP. Since some MDPC-X resellers call FP medium and Medium they call it Sata.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homingmystic*
> 
> Ok thanks will get small then for my sleeving. What is typically done when the PSU side has two missing pins for the pci-e? In my case I have the Seasonic X750 and pin 4 & 8 are missing on the PSU side. Can the missing cables be added, but terminated mid way?
> 
> I have attached a picture to show the pcie cable for the x750.


It looks like your cable uses a double crimp at the one end. I would check pin layout for your PSU & see what must be done.

Most will create a soldering point mid way. They will create a Y Cable. Like this:



This is my Y Cable but I use it for different cable (For my Sata Power).


----------



## homingmystic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> It looks like your cable uses a double crimp at the one end. I would check pin layout for your PSU & see what must be done.
> 
> Most will create a soldering point mid way. They will create a Y Cable. Like this:
> 
> 
> 
> This is my Y Cable but I use it for different cable (For my Sata Power).


Ok that would be no problem, I had to do 4 of them y joins or the 24 pin









Do people make a dummy cable for the PSU side for the two missing pins? As they will be blank otherwise, or are they left blank? Sorry for the amount for noob questions.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Yes, I have used them for my Corsair Fans. I should correct what I mean.When I say Medium I mean FP. Since some MDPC-X resellers call FP medium and Medium they call it Sata.


That makes sense now. I remember seeing a SATA size before, but didn't see it on the main MDPC site.


----------



## jleslie246

How do you do a sata power cable for 2 ssd drives? And not the push down connector type ( I used that on my 3 hdd's).


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> How do you do a sata power cable for 2 ssd drives? And not the push down connector type ( I used that on my 3 hdd's).


Solder two or three wires together.





or

Create a single Sata cable & use a Y Sata Power cable.


----------



## iBerggman

Do you know if there's any "panel mount" cable combs I can buy or would I have to make my own somehow? I guess I'm looking for something like the combs lowfat designed and 3d printed but in 24pin and 8+6pin sizes.

Maybe I should use this as a way to justify buying a 3d printer


----------



## Craigk19

okay quick question, every time i post on here i realize how dumb a question it is after i get the answers haha but im going to be getting im pretty sure a 7800x for my new build around black friday time which means ill be getting an x299 board ive noticed they all are 8+ either 4-8 for cpu or the eps connections how would i know the pin out of them to make the extra cable needed?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBerggman*
> 
> Do you know if there's any "panel mount" cable combs I can buy or would I have to make my own somehow? I guess I'm looking for something like the combs lowfat designed and 3d printed but in 24pin and 8+6pin sizes.
> 
> Maybe I should use this as a way to justify buying a 3d printer


Like these:


----------



## Potage

Hi,
I bought a Corsair HX750 PSU, I'm wondering, are the capacitors on the cables necessary ?
They're between 12V cables and mass, so they must be smoothing capacitors.
If I can't remove them I think I'll solder them on the PSU side of the cables instead of the components side.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> okay quick question, every time i post on here i realize how dumb a question it is after i get the answers haha but im going to be getting im pretty sure a 7800x for my new build around black friday time which means ill be getting an x299 board ive noticed they all are 8+ either 4-8 for cpu or the eps connections how would i know the pin out of them to make the extra cable needed?


I'm not sure if I understand your question exactly, but if your using the same psu, the pinout doesn't change.


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> It's one reason why I switched to MDPC-X. I kept getting different sizes with there sleezing. The one batch I got I couldn't even get 18 AWG wiring through the sleeving.


I have issues too with chinese sleeve and I find it a very unreliable product no matter where it comes from or what kind of fancy name it has slapped onto it.
On top of that, the price certain shops in the States and the EU ask (no names.... be polite... no names....) is brutally shameful considering you can buy this stuff retail, per meter, on Taobao for 0.13 USD/m. Can only imagine the bulk price with proper importing








At least I don't pay much for it and it let me experiment a lot without worrying to much about wasting material, but now I just want to clear this cheapo inventory of mine asap and swtich to only MDPC-X.

MDPC-X asks a comparable price for their high quality, reliable and consistent, self made, made in Germany, plug-a-random-prase-because-they-really-deserve-it, sleeve.
Oh, wait.... Maybe its the opposite.... It's not that MDPC-X matches their prices..... Maybe, just maybe, is more like they estabilished the price-point for high quality sleeve - and a couple of dudes from their garages thought they could make loadsa monnays on our backs by selling us alibaba imports with fancy names and photos at MDPC-X's price point with literally no effort









Ah, the glory of capitalism
















PS: I am also a bit concerned about these shops only selling bare copper wire. I personally use only tinned wire to avoid any potential oxidation problems in the long run, even my cheap-o chinese AWG18 is tinned.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> ...PS: I am also a bit concerned about these shops only selling bare copper wire. I personally use only tinned wire to avoid any potential oxidation problems in the long run, even my cheap-o chinese AWG18 is tinned.


Corrosion on bare copper wires isn't going to be much of an issue unless you live in a swamp (not by it; in it). It takes decades before insulated copper starts to noticeably corrode. Even exposed copper will take a long time to corrode-far longer than you are likely to still be using it-and the copper inside a crimp, where resistance from corrosion could be a problem, is pretty much protected by the crimp itself.

I use bare copper wiring all the time and have yet to have problems from it. The copper wiring in my home is a bit over 40 years old and exposed copper is still pretty shiny.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> PS: I am also a bit concerned about these shops only selling bare copper wire. I personally use only tinned wire to avoid any potential oxidation problems in the long run, even my cheap-o chinese AWG18 is tinned.


My entire new set of cables only uses bare copper. I wish I could get a hold of some Bare copper wiring, It's nearly impossible to get a hold of it in the US. All the sleeving shops only sell tinned & mouser couldn't find any 16 AWG bare copper hook-up wire. Most my wiring came from Ice-Modz when they were in business.

I recall someone tell me once that bare copper wiring is better due to having better contact.

You could always tin the wire with a soldering iron. I wouldn't suggest doing that.


----------



## jleslie246

Does anyone know much about the Rexus PST-3 Digital Power Supply Tester with LCD? Im checking my cables and everything looks good except the PG value is close to the low limit of 100ms. Im seeing 150ms and it is making the tester throw an alarm. I dont see how this could be a cable issue though.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Does anyone know much about the Rexus PST-3 Digital Power Supply Tester with LCD? Im checking my cables and everything looks good except the PG value is close to the low limit of 100ms. Im seeing 150ms and it is making the tester throw an alarm. I dont see how this could be a cable issue though.


Do you have another psu you can run a comparison on? Sounds to me like either the tester is flaky, or your PSU, especially if you ran continuity checks on your cables and they checked good. Also, I'm assuming you're testing under a no load condition (not connected to the MB, VGA, etc.)?

This *link* explains the timing associated with PG as specified by the ATX spec fairly clearly, and includes a timing diagram.

...and this info is taken from the *ATX12V Power Supply Design Guide Version 2.01 spec*:

3.3.1. PWR_OK

PWR_OK is a "power good" signal. It should be asserted high by the power supply to
indicate that the +12 VDC, +5VDC, and +3.3VDC outputs are above the under-voltage
thresholds listed in Section 3.2.1 and that sufficient mains energy is stored by the converter
to guarantee continuous power operation within specification for at least the duration
specified in Section 3.2.11, "Voltage Hold-up Time." Conversely, PWR_OK should be deasserted
to a low state when any of the +12 VDC, +5 VDC, or +3.3 VDC output voltages
falls below its under-voltage threshold, or when mains power has been removed for a time
sufficiently long such that power supply operation cannot be guaranteed beyond the powerdown
warning time. The electrical and timing characteristics of the PWR_OK signal are
given in Table 13 and in Figure 6.

Table 13. PWR_OK Signal Characteristics

Signal Type +5 V TTL compatible
Logic level low < 0.4 V while sinking 4 mA
Logic level high Between 2.4 V and 5 V output while sourcing 200 µA
High-state output impedance 1 kΩ from output to common
PWR_OK delay 100 ms < T3 < 500 ms
PWR_OK risetime T4 ≤ 10 ms
AC loss to PWR_OK hold-up time T5 ≥ 16 ms
Power-down warning T6 ≥ 1 ms


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Do you have another psu you can run a comparison on? Sounds to me like either the tester is flaky, or your PSU.
> 
> This *link* explains the timing associated with PG as specified by the ATX spec fairly clearly, and includes a timing diagram.
> 
> ...and this info is taken from the *ATX12V Power Supply Design Guide Version 2.01 spec*:
> 
> 3.3.1. PWR_OK
> 
> PWR_OK is a "power good" signal. It should be asserted high by the power supply to
> indicate that the +12 VDC, +5VDC, and +3.3VDC outputs are above the under-voltage
> thresholds listed in Section 3.2.1 and that sufficient mains energy is stored by the converter
> to guarantee continuous power operation within specification for at least the duration
> specified in Section 3.2.11, "Voltage Hold-up Time." Conversely, PWR_OK should be deasserted
> to a low state when any of the +12 VDC, +5 VDC, or +3.3 VDC output voltages
> falls below its under-voltage threshold, or when mains power has been removed for a time
> sufficiently long such that power supply operation cannot be guaranteed beyond the powerdown
> warning time. The electrical and timing characteristics of the PWR_OK signal are
> given in Table 13 and in Figure 6.
> 
> Table 13. PWR_OK Signal Characteristics
> 
> Signal Type +5 V TTL compatible
> Logic level low < 0.4 V while sinking 4 mA
> Logic level high Between 2.4 V and 5 V output while sourcing 200 µA
> High-state output impedance 1 kΩ from output to common
> PWR_OK delay 100 ms < T3 < 500 ms
> PWR_OK risetime T4 ≤ 10 ms
> AC loss to PWR_OK hold-up time T5 ≥ 16 ms
> Power-down warning T6 ≥ 1 ms


My reading is 150 ms. I guess its just really fast? I have several psu's in my house. This one has the fasted reading and I assume because it is so close to the lower limit, it is setting an alarm.


----------



## iamjanco

Could be an overly sensitive circuit in the tester. 150ms is within specs.

Did you try the same tester with the other PSUs? If so, what readings did you get?


----------



## iBerggman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Like these:


Oh yeah thanks, I forgot those existed. Those could look pretty nice combined with stitched cables, or even cable combs.


----------



## Mega Man

or just sleeved properly with no combs !


----------



## Revan654

First three Sata Power cables are finished.





Now I need to figure out how to power my last Harddrive & also power all my Molex powered devices.


----------



## homingmystic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> First three Sata Power cables are finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to figure out how to power my last Harddrive & also power all my Molex powered devices.


Looking good!







Are you splitting the cables from a molex, or straight to the PSU? I have to do this next, and have it split off twice for my two drives.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homingmystic*
> 
> Looking good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you splitting the cables from a molex, or straight to the PSU? I have to do this next, and have it split off twice for my two drives.


What I currently have it set up is the following:

Y Cable (4 Wires - Left Side): Heads directly to my harddrive (Sata).
Single Wire (Left Side): Is the final Wire for Sata. Even though this wire is not needed to power a harddrive. Going to add it anyways.
Y Cable (4 Wires - Right Side): Is Molex & I will be making some Molex Y cables to power everything.



I haven't added the molex terminals yet. Since I just started on these wires.

I'm also debating if I should add a second PSU. I do have a spare PSU that's not being used. Just not sure how the pin layout would be when adding a second PSU.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> or just sleeved properly with no combs !


Having cables mount to chassis some how > *


----------



## homingmystic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> What I currently have it set up is the following:
> 
> Y Cable (4 Wires - Left Side): Heads directly to my harddrive (Sata).
> Single Wire (Left Side): Is the final Wire for Sata. Even though this wire is not needed to power a harddrive. Going to add it anyways.
> Y Cable (4 Wires - Right Side): Is Molex & I will be making some Molex Y cables to power everything.
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't added the molex terminals yet. Since I just started on these wires.
> 
> I'm also debating if I should add a second PSU. I do have a spare PSU that's not being used. Just not sure how the pin layout would be when adding a second PSU.


Sound good







I have never worked with a secondary PSU, so I can't comment on that sadly. I have been doing data power also recently, nearly finished my molex power, last cable to do! I'll have to post some pictures once done, first time sleeving so might not be up to everyone's standard here


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> or just sleeved properly with no combs !
> 
> 
> 
> Having cables mount to chassis some how > *
Click to expand...

with quality sleeving to hold it in place

there are plenty of examples.

the question mark, the one where it is holding up a stuffed animal....

if it is that important, cable sew - looks far better imo


----------



## lowfat

Sewn cables look terrible IMO. Curves look unnatural.

By securing the cables tightly to the chassis @ the right spots you can get ridiculously long bends with no sag. The cables @ the PSU end couldn't be done w/o it. The 11" run from the chassis to the GPU couldn't be done either w/o sagging as it cables would droop behind the motherboard tray.

http://hostthenpost.org


----------



## Himo5

If my recent cable postings have provoked this matter of sewing cables can I say that it was something I developed to cope with the very narrow backplane on the NZXT Lexa S chassis.
The trouble is that there is only just room for the thickness of two sleeved cables and nothing more, so there is no room for cable management fittings.
As far as attempting to achieve a natural aesthetic is concerned the stitching and through-panel fasteners only perform the function of keeping the wires in line while the back side panel is off.
The real clamping and shaping is performed by the pass through plates and the lengths of the wires.

If my execution of the idea looks rough I apologise for it, I'm happier thinking things up than carrying them through, I'm afraid.
What I hope is that all those people lumbered with the tens of thousands of NZXT, Rosewill and Casecom versions of this chassis may see new ways of building with them rather than just chucking them away.
This H445xW190mm midi case was the only one that fits my furniture and I have 4 of them so it's been a permanent feature of my PC builds since 2012.

Over the years I've gradually built a stock of Seasonic X850 KM3 Gold PSUs for each case so the same basic ATX/EPS cable set can be built for all of them.
This is the best 160mm PSU I could find to fit in this case and still allow access to the backplane at the modular face - and if you examine the PSUOutlet image in the AvariGold build in my signature you'll see how restricted and cramped the available space is.


----------



## Revan654

My Sata & Molex Cable combo Cable.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Sewn cables look terrible IMO. Curves look unnatural.
> 
> By securing the cables tightly to the chassis @ the right spots you can get ridiculously long bends with no sag. The cables @ the PSU end couldn't be done w/o it. The 11" run from the chassis to the GPU couldn't be done either w/o sagging as it cables would droop behind the motherboard tray.
> 
> http://hostthenpost.org


and that is fine. i never said not to use them. i recommended not using cable combs ! but that does not mean you need to. it is my opinion

i hate cable combs.

i think they look tacky and lazy, and ruin a build


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Sewn cables look terrible IMO. Curves look unnatural.
> 
> By securing the cables tightly to the chassis @ the right spots you can get ridiculously long bends with no sag. The cables @ the PSU end couldn't be done w/o it. The 11" run from the chassis to the GPU couldn't be done either w/o sagging as it cables would droop behind the motherboard tray.
> 
> http://hostthenpost.org
> 
> 
> 
> and that is fine. i never said not to use them. i recommended not using cable combs ! but that does not mean you need to. it is my opinion
> 
> i hate cable combs.
> 
> i think they look tacky and lazy, and ruin a build
Click to expand...

I agree with looking tacky and ruining a build (lazy may be a bit harsh) but that also is my own opinion. It's your build so make it however you want.

The way most people sew cables does look terrible but one can use hidden cable sewing. It's much more difficult and should be done with the cables in place or formed with the curves they will have once in place but the stitches will not show. I haven't seen anyone actually use hidden cable stitching but I would think it would have to be done similar to the way cushions and throw pillows are stitched closed after being stuffed. A curved needle, like upholsterers use, might be easier to use with cable sleeving. The idea is to keep the thread inside the sleeving as much as possible.


----------



## jleslie246

I've made plenty of Y cables, onein 2 out and they turned out great! Im working on Y cables now with one in and 3 out. Man this is much harder but its working. I should have just bought hubs. Ill post pictures soon


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> I've made plenty of Y cables, onein 2 out and they turned out great! Im working on Y cables now with one in and 3 out. Man this is much harder but its working. I should have just bought hubs. Ill post pictures soon


When creating Y/Z cables It's a good idea to get a larger OD wiring. Soldering for me is still tricky, my Soldering refuses to work correctly. I just tend to use my soldering iron like a sculptor knife.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> When creating Y/Z cables It's a good idea to get a larger OD wiring. Soldering for me is still tricky, my Soldering refuses to work correctly. I just tend to use my soldering iron like a sculptor knife.




4 more to go! This is with 18 awg


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> 
> 
> 4 more to go! This is with 18 awg


Have you placed any of them inside the Sata housing yet? Are the fitting correctly?

Your suppose to use 18AWG for Sata. Molex only sells 18AWG terminals. I tend to use 16AWG for everything.

Also found this method recently. You use part of a crimp & tiny amount of solder.

Link:


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Your suppose to use 18AWG for Sata. I tend to use 16AWG for everything.
> 
> Also found this method recently. You use part of a crimp & tiny amount of solder.
> 
> Link:


Thats exactly how I made mine.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> When creating Y/Z cables It's a good idea to get a larger OD wiring. Soldering for me is still tricky, my Soldering refuses to work correctly. I just tend to use my soldering iron like a sculptor knife.


What are you using for a soldering iron? Generally when someone says they suck at soldering its because they are using a cheap soldering iron / tip that won't tin properly. If you can't tin the soldering tip, its pretty much useless. If you want a decent soldering station for cheap, look at some of the Hakko clones out there. Something like the Aoyue 936 is pretty awesome for its price.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What are you using for a soldering iron? Generally when someone says they suck at soldering its because they are using a cheap soldering iron / tip that won't tin properly. If you can't tin the soldering tip, its pretty much useless. If you want a decent soldering station for cheap, look at some of the Hakko clones out there. Something like the Aoyue 936 is pretty awesome for its price.


The PVC Sleeving tending to melt very quickly if I place the soldering iron at the bottom & feed the soldering wire to the top wire.

This was one of my first attempts. It's not exactly pretty.



I have this Iron



Link: https://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP25NUS-Standard-Soldering-Black/dp/B00B3SG70K/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1498957843&sr=8-10&keywords=Weller+soldering+Iron

I also have a portable one, Which I can use. I mainly use this for cutting sleeving & melting the sleeving.



Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJW08JK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this is the Soldering wire I been using



Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJPO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

That iron is too small. You need at least 60 watts. How well does that Dremel work?


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> If my recent cable postings have provoked this matter of sewing cables can I say that it was something I developed to cope with the very narrow backplane on the NZXT Lexa S chassis.
> 
> Over the years I've gradually built a stock of Seasonic X850 KM3 Gold PSUs for each case so the same basic ATX/EPS cable set can be built for all of them.
> 
> This is the best 160mm PSU I could find to fit in this case and still allow access to the backplane at the modular face - and if you examine the PSUOutlet image in the AvariGold build in my signature you'll see how restricted and cramped the available space is.


If you have something on hand that you can use as a heat sink (larger metal alligator clips or hemostats) you can clamp off both ends of the wire just before the insulation on both sides, and that should help prevent the insulation from getting too hot which results in burning/shrinkage.

Examples of what I'm talking about follow:

*Heat Sink Soldering Tweezer*

*Alligator Clip Heat Sinks*

*Various other possibilities based on Google image search*

Ebay also has a variety of them for sale. Just search for solder heat sinks.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> I've made plenty of Y cables, onein 2 out and they turned out great! Im working on Y cables now with one in and 3 out. Man this is much harder but its working. I should have just bought hubs. Ill post pictures soon
> 
> 
> 
> When creating Y/Z cables It's a good idea to get a larger OD wiring. Soldering for me is still tricky, my Soldering refuses to work correctly. I just tend to use my soldering iron like a sculptor knife.
Click to expand...

are you in the us ? @longroadtrip has an amazing station for reasonable pricing ! i bought mine and absolutely wont use anything else !

that said in braising ( for refrigeration ) your goal is to heat up quickly, if you dont you can melt things like txvs, solenoids ext the same principle can apply here. your iron is not hot enough ( as has already been stated ) this makes you take longer to get the wire to temp. which means the heat spreads too far !

all that said make sure to use a flux as well !!!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> That iron is too small. You need at least 60 watts. How well does that Dremel work?


Really not sure. It seems to work a little bit better. It still tends to melt the PVC quickly. Really haven't had a chance you use soldering section of Dremel. Plus I'm not 100% sure what to set it to. Since the tool can reach up to 2192F.

I think the tip that came with the weller is just pure crap. A small section of the tip is black already & can not be removed(I have only used the iron about 4 to 6 times). I tried cleaning it with a few different methods. It still remains black. The tin just rolls off that part. When soldering the soldering wire turns yellow & black on the wire.

Here is a few examples what I mean (I just did this real quick to show the results, Not any indication of my actual soldering skill







).




Here is my Dremel tip which looks to be in much better condition.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> are you in the us ? @longroadtrip has an amazing station for reasonable pricing ! i bought mine and absolutely wont use anything else !
> 
> that said in braising ( for refrigeration ) your goal is to heat up quickly, if you dont you can melt things like txvs, solenoids ext the same principle can apply here. your iron is not hot enough ( as has already been stated ) this makes you take longer to get the wire to temp. which means the heat spreads too far !
> 
> all that said make sure to use a flux as well !!!


I am in the US. I kept thinking the wire is just not heating up correctly.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

You are definitely not getting the wire hot enough quickly enough. A hotter iron will heat up the area being soldered faster before the heat has time to spread to the insulation and will burn off the excess flux. You are also not tinning the tip far enough back. An iron that gets hot enough will heat the joint fast enough to allow solder to flow into the joint before the heat has time to get to the insulation and melt it. If the iron is hot enough, it shouldn't take but a second, maybe two, to heat up the wire and apply the solder. Then immediately remove the iron from the joint to avoid overheating the joint.

Keeping the tip clean and tinned properly can be a bit of a chore. I like to keep a damp (not wet) paper towel handy to quickly wipe off the tip frequently while working. Also, the tip needs to be kept tinned as far back as possible instead just at the very end; it helps with keeping the business end tinned longer. Steel wool can be used to help remove built up corrosion. Dipping the tip into a tinning compound (or dipping it into flux and immediately applying a bit of solder, then wiping it clean with a damp paper towel, cloth, or sponge every so often will keep the tip tinned, thus blocking corrosion, and will improve heat transfer between the iron and the wire. Applying a small drop (and I mean really small) to the end of the iron and touching the drop to the joint will help with heat transfer but the solder that goes into the joint should come from the solder wire being applied to the joint, not the iron).

If the wire is hot enough for the solder to melt properly, the solder will flow into the joint via capillary action when touched to the joint. All strands of the wire should be coated with a thin layer of solder but you should still be able to see the individual strands. The solder should not be globbed on like it is on your joints (actually, I'm surprised you managed to do that well with such an underpowered iron; it shows you have the potential for good soldering skills).

Because of all the solder over the joint, I can't tell how you made the splice but a proper soldered joint doesn't depend on the solder for strength. All the solder is supposed to do is ensure a good electrical connection. The joint needs to be mechanically strong before applying the solder. That usually means tightly twisting the wires together before soldering. Another way is to crimp the wires together with a sleeve, then flow solder into the sleeve to prevent corrosion.


----------



## Mega Man

i dont have the world of experience in soldering, i know we have been using sponges and rages that were damp forever.

however i hear that it " shocks" the tip due to the temp differences and it is better to use the brass wool, no idea if it is true...

http://slotblog.net/topic/45749-soldering-question-brass-wool-vs-wet-sponge/

that is not evidence just further talk


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i dont have the world of experience in soldering, i know we have been using sponges and rages that were damp forever.
> 
> however i hear that it " shocks" the tip due to the temp differences and it is better to use the brass wool, no idea if it is true...
> 
> http://slotblog.net/topic/45749-soldering-question-brass-wool-vs-wet-sponge/
> 
> that is not evidence just further talk


I've used both, but prefer brass wool. I think it does a better job cleaning and the temperature recovers faster.
I also wanted to add that it's a good idea to wear safety glasses when soldering. I was just reminded of this a few minutes ago when a tiny bit of solder splattered in my eye.


----------



## Mega Man

i would second that, i have experience it as well.

and flux burns too!


----------



## SHNS0

What do you guys think?


----------



## khemist

Looks fantastic, well done!.


----------



## Mega Man

omg i am in love, and no cable combs !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! W00T !

that is creative genius !!!!


----------



## ruffhi

I can see cable combs .. in the form of cables. Very ingenious.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Certainly different and definitely well done.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Certainly different and definitely well done.


^ +1


----------



## ruffhi

My wire stripper jaws are mis-aligned.


----------



## kgtuning

Very creative, I like it.


----------



## Craigk19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> My wire stripper jaws are mis-aligned.


As long as it's consistent on every strip you're golden


----------



## ruffhi

It doesn't strip anymore. The top biting blade is 3mm away from the bottom biting blade ... result: no bite. No strip.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> My wire stripper jaws are mis-aligned.


first that sucks,
second i like that tool !

which one is it, ill try to see if there is some thing you can do about it .

edit those look normal, whats happening ?

https://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=group_detail&parentID=&groupID=1383

see above link, they sell spare blades ! possibly you just need to bend it @!


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> My wire stripper jaws are mis-aligned.


I believe Pressmaster is the OEM. Here's the instructions for my stripper if you want to try removing the blade cartridge:http://www.pressmaster.se/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Instructions-Embla.pdf


----------



## SHNS0

Thanks for your feedback guys!

I've been doing braiding occasionally since a while, here's a couple more pictures. Some people absolutely love it, others just can't seem to like it. It's really a love or hate thing.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> My wire stripper jaws are mis-aligned.


I would check the the bay, sometimes wiring tends to drop down there & stay there. I would give it a few clicks while the tool is up side down.

I have the same wire strippers, recently it start not to strip the wire properly. It would leave part of the PVC behind(It makes the cut just fine). I went ahead bought a new pair. Plus I wanted one that would strip below 6mm (That way I don't have to try to judge what 4mm is on the cutter).


----------



## ruffhi

Good call ... I clicked it a few times and now the teeth do line up.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> My wire stripper jaws are mis-aligned.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> My wire stripper jaws are mis-aligned.


Have you checked to see if there's something stuck on the upper jaw? Maybe if you remove the cutter from the handle you can see what's happening.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Thanks for your feedback guys!
> 
> I've been doing braiding occasionally since a while, here's a couple more pictures. Some people absolutely love it, others just can't seem to like it. It's really a love or hate thing.


I imagine the style of wrap braid could influence preference, but I think it's rather unique. Definitely something different from the thousands of cables held together by combs or fishing line. Not only that, it doesn't really cost you anything extra (like combs do).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Thanks for your feedback guys!
> 
> I've been doing braiding occasionally since a while, here's a couple more pictures. Some people absolutely love it, others just can't seem to like it. It's really a love or hate thing.





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Good call ... I clicked it a few times and now the teeth do line up.


thats great news !


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> thats great news !


It is. I have gotten pretty good and stripping with just the right amount of wire sticking out. That red sliding thing is useless as it won't go below 6mm. I keep on forgetting to take it off.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> It is. I have gotten pretty good and stripping with just the right amount of wire sticking out. That red sliding thing is useless as it won't go below 6mm. I keep on forgetting to take it off.


I remember seeing a mod where someone inserted a small screw in the front of the stop and then used that to set the strip length.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> I remember seeing a mod where someone inserted a small screw in the front of the stop and then used that to set the strip length.


In theory you could do that. However you have to be careful not to crack/break the rail.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> In theory you could do that. However you have to be careful not to crack/break the rail.


Yea, I did it on an extra blade cartridge and there's not a lot of material.


----------



## Himo5

The best way of doing this is to use a lump of molten Polymorph. Unlike hotglue it soon cools to a manageable temperature while leaving plenty of time to mould it into position and shape before it solidifies.


However, I have gradually come to abandon the idea of a quick, automatic wirestrip. Nowadays I only use the type of wire stripper that guarantees an accurate cut of the insulation - then I cut the wire to the exact length required. The guide gives you the exact allowance you need to measure for and then you get to ensure that the wire is cut cleanly to a uniform length.


----------



## Revan654

With a Small Mod I was able to fully sleeve the wiring from Soldering point to the terminals. The little pass through area you will have to alter to a bit to get the sleeving in(Atlease with MDPC-X).





My new wire strippers arrived today. No longer have to judge where the 3 to 4mm point is.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> ...My new wire strippers arrived today. No longer have to judge where the 3 to 4mm point is.


I'm giving those strippers some serious thought but I've had to spend too much money elsewhere recently and I don't want to dip into savings. Mayhap next month (if nothing else breaks or dies before then)?


----------



## Revan654

Anyone know a place to order Molex Branded PWM Fan connectors(4-Pin) in Black? So far Places like Digikey & Mouser require you to order 14,000 pieces if you want that part.

Part Number: 50-29-1559


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Anyone know a place to order Molex Branded PWM Fan connectors(4-Pin) in Black? So far Places like Digikey & Mouser require you to order 14,000 pieces if you want that part.
> 
> Part Number: 50-29-1559


Where are you located?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Where are you located?


US.


----------



## Revan654

I was suppose to get these:



Instead I got these:



I assume these are 6-pin PSU end Connectors for other PSU. They do not work for EVGA. This is the second time Singularity Computers screwed up my order. Going have to wait another two weeks to get the right connectors.


----------



## Himo5

If they won't work because the middle pin in the row adjacent to the lug is square instead of half round you can easily amend this by cutting a strip of emery paper to cover the depth of the nozzles and then rubbing across the two square edges that should be round. Route the emery paper where the green and orange lines are drawn.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Anyone know a place to order Molex Branded PWM Fan connectors(4-Pin) in Black? So far Places like Digikey & Mouser require you to order 14,000 pieces if you want that part.
> 
> Part Number: 50-29-1559


iirc this has it ( mdpc )

https://mod-one.com/4-pin-fan-male-connector-black/

but it might not be .... idk, i know the ones i got from mdpc were...


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Anyone know a place to order Molex Branded PWM Fan connectors(4-Pin) in Black? So far Places like Digikey & Mouser require you to order 14,000 pieces if you want that part.
> 
> Part Number: 50-29-1559
> 
> 
> 
> Where are you located?
Click to expand...

According to Molex, that part number is for a five pin female connector body. Are you looking for a four pin male or female connector body. In the case of male, do you want a non-hooded one or a hooded one? Does it have to be Molex brand (and, if so, why)?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> According to Molex, that part number is for a five pin female connector body. Are you looking for a four pin male or female connector body. In the case of male, do you want a non-hooded one or a hooded one? Does it have to be Molex brand (and, if so, why)?


I think you mis-entered the number on your side.

It says below the number: KK® 254 Crimp Housing, Friction Ramp, 4 Circuits.

I need Female, Yes it needs to be Molex since molex Fan terminals don't fit & lock correctly inside other fan connectors like JMT or cheap HWT. Molex window section of fan connector is longer.

As you can see in the following example.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> iirc this has it ( mdpc )
> 
> https://mod-one.com/4-pin-fan-male-connector-black/
> 
> but it might not be .... idk, i know the ones i got from mdpc were...


Mod-One, MainFrameCustoms & Ensourced uses HWT or generic Unbranded connectors. MDPC-X store uses the official Molex connectors.

With that Said anyone know what the terminal contact material MDPC-X store sells? Is it Gold or Tin?


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> According to Molex, that part number is for a five pin female connector body. Are you looking for a four pin male or female connector body. In the case of male, do you want a non-hooded one or a hooded one? Does it have to be Molex brand (and, if so, why)?
> 
> 
> 
> I think you mis-entered the number on your side.
> 
> It says below the number: KK® 254 Crimp Housing, Friction Ramp, 4 Circuits.
> 
> I need Female, Yes it needs to be Molex since molex Fan terminals don't fit & lock correctly inside other fan connectors like JMT or cheap HWT. Molex window section of fan connector is longer.
> 
> As you can see in the following example.
> 
> ...
Click to expand...

Nope. I copy and pasted it into the search box on Molex's website.


----------



## iamjanco

If what you get is what's pictured via their site, *Mod One's 4 pin fan connector housings* definitely aren't Molex branded (I checked both black and white versions). *MDPC-X*'s are (if you get what's pictured there), which can be firmed up via the spec'd drawing for *50-29-1559*.

Also confirmed that all of Molex's regular distros are out of stock and that if you want to order them, you'll probably end up having enough on hand to do fan connectors for the entire modder community in the City of Akron, Ohio. (Population: 197,859 (2014)).


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Nope. I copy and pasted it into the search box on Molex's website.


Something is wrong with your browser.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> If what you get is what's pictured via their site, *Mod One's 4 pin fan connector housings* definitely aren't Molex branded (I checked both black and white versions). *MDPC-X*'s are (if you get what's pictured there), which can be firmed up via the spec'd drawing for *50-29-1559*.
> 
> Also confirmed that all of Molex's regular distros are out of stock and that if you want to order them, you'll probably end up having enough on hand to do fan connectors for the entire modder community in the City of Akron, Ohio. (Population: 197,859 (2014)).


It just hard to see what series they are from. If they are 2510 or 2695


----------



## iamjanco

Not that hard. Look at the printing on the housing in the upper right corner of the drawing I referenced, then look at MDPC-X's and Mod-One's. You can clearly see the same labeling on the MDPC-X version, while if you access the source for the image at Mod_one, no lettering there.

Granted, it's a pretty crappy image even zoomed into in the browser, but it's clear enough to note the lack of identification markings.

Added: by the way, never go by the placeholder images used on Molex's and their distros sites. For the most part, they're just generic. And that screen cap you shared specs the 2695 series. That's the info you should be relying on.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Nope. I copy and pasted it into the search box on Molex's website.
> 
> 
> 
> Something is wrong with your browser...
Click to expand...

Oh for crying out loud! There is nothing wrong with my browser. What is wrong are my eyeballs. I only saw the illustration (and miscounted to boot) and missed where it said it was for four circuits. Sorry.









However, I take a very dim view of a vendor that can't show an actual picture for a product. As far as I'm concerned, that is false advertising, even if they include a disclaimer.


----------



## iamjanco

Lol. Molex has been doing that for as long as I can remember. Their sites are set up for use by the engineering crowds, and they're not necessarily worried about marketing fluff.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Lol. Molex has been doing that for as long as I can remember. Their sites are set up for use by the engineering crowds, and they're not necessarily worried about marketing fluff.


WW Grainger does the same thing. I was trying to find a countersink with a 1/8" diameter shank and a 3/6" or 1/4" diameter body a while back. All they had with 1/8" shanks also had 1/8" bodies yet every one of the illustrations for the 20 or so line items they showed at the time showed a countersink with a larger body than the shank. I had to open every listing to determine the actual size. I wasted a lot of time on that.


----------



## iamjanco

One of my clients has small private company that sells certain types of motors used in a wide array of industries, which cost from $2,000-$20,000+ each. He's got nothing but crappy images of the motors he sell on his sites, because the real meat is in the details. His clients know what they want and are looking for and can identity what they need by specs alone.

His sales have gone from $100K a week to 500k a week in the year that my small team has been working with him, without the need for pretty pix.

That said, the consumer market is a whole different can of worms. Can you imagine how many cell phones companies like Apple and Samsung would sell if consumers had to dig through specs about power out and what was meant by LTE (Bands 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 12, 13, 17, 18, 19, 20, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30)?

As for Grainger, yeah, I agree, at least to a certain extent. Again, though, much of their business comes by way of pros in the field who, if they can't find it online, dial in. They just happen to also be accessible by the average consumer, who often consumes without really knowing what they're eating.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> According to Molex, that part number is for a five pin female connector body. Are you looking for a four pin male or female connector body. In the case of male, do you want a non-hooded one or a hooded one? Does it have to be Molex brand (and, if so, why)?
> 
> 
> 
> I think you mis-entered the number on your side.
> 
> It says below the number: KK® 254 Crimp Housing, Friction Ramp, 4 Circuits.
> 
> I need Female, Yes it needs to be Molex since molex Fan terminals don't fit & lock correctly inside other fan connectors like JMT or cheap HWT. Molex window section of fan connector is longer.
> 
> As you can see in the following example.
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> iirc this has it ( mdpc )
> 
> https://mod-one.com/4-pin-fan-male-connector-black/
> 
> but it might not be .... idk, i know the ones i got from mdpc were...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Mod-One, MainFrameCustoms & Ensourced uses HWT or generic Unbranded connectors. MDPC-X store uses the official Molex connectors.
> 
> With that Said anyone know what the terminal contact material MDPC-X store sells? Is it Gold or Tin?
Click to expand...

That sucks, how many do you need?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Not that hard. Look at the printing on the housing in the upper right corner of the drawing I referenced, then look at MDPC-X's and Mod-One's. You can clearly see the same labeling on the MDPC-X version, while if you access the source for the image at Mod_one, no lettering there.
> 
> Granted, it's a pretty crappy image even zoomed into in the browser, but it's clear enough to note the lack of identification markings.
> 
> Added: by the way, never go by the placeholder images used on Molex's and their distros sites. For the most part, they're just generic. And that screen cap you shared specs the 2695 series. That's the info you should be relying on.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> That sucks, how many do you need?


I went ahead and placed a mass order direct from MDPC-X. Around 40 PWM connectors along with there other connectors. It's odd that MDPC-X does not carry other connectors or terminals.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> The best way of doing this is to use a lump of molten Polymorph. Unlike hotglue it soon cools to a manageable temperature while leaving plenty of time to mould it into position and shape before it solidifies.


Or just do this:



One zip tie placed around the stopper will cut each wire at around 4mm.

Molex:

JMT


One small note, Engineer crimping tool does not work great with Molex Branded Mini Fit Jr & Sata terminals due to the wing span is smaller then odd brand terminals. They do work well with MDPC-X Crimpers if you don't want to buy Molex Branded crimpers (which are expensive, 276 dollars).


----------



## Craigk19

totally trying out the zip tie trick tonight!!!

do y'all have a trick to making sure the terminals are all facing up too? i keep trying and some still end up slightly off and end up with a slight twist that i cant notice until im placing them in the connectors after sleeving


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> totally trying out the zip tie trick tonight!!!
> 
> do y'all have a trick to making sure the terminals are all facing up too? i keep trying and some still end up slightly off and end up with a slight twist that i cant notice until im placing them in the connectors after sleeving


If your talking about Molex Branded terminals. I place it my MDPC-X crimper first give it one or two clicks (Based on the OD of the wiring). Remove it and then I feed the wiring through it. Then place it back inside the crimper & finish the process. From time to time the terminals can come out a bit un-even (I only noticed it on un-branded terminals, I haven't seen it on Molex terminals yet).

Also check both side of the crimper & make sure it placed completely inside & not sticking out on any side.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*


My guide are those two ridges on the bottom that run the full width. I put my wire half way between those ridges and get a nice 2mm strip ... just enough to butt the wire covering up to the 2nd bunch of crimps.


----------



## Craigk19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> If your talking about Molex Branded terminals. I place it my MDPC-X crimper first give it one or two clicks (Based on the OD of the wiring). Remove it and then I feed the wiring through it. Then place it back inside the crimper & finish the process. From time to time the terminals can come out a bit un-even (I only noticed it on un-branded terminals, I haven't seen it on Molex terminals yet).
> 
> Also check both side of the crimper & make sure it placed completely inside & not sticking out on any side.


i do that with the terminals i have which are from Mod-One but what im talking about is when i do it to the opposite end of the wire making sure they both are facing up is kind of hard lol


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> i do that with the terminals i have which are from Mod-One but what im talking about is when i do it to the opposite end of the wire making sure they both are facing up is kind of hard lol


Just loop the wire & touch the terminals Once both are facing the same way crimp.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> totally trying out the zip tie trick tonight!!!
> 
> do y'all have a trick to making sure the terminals are all facing up too? i keep trying and some still end up slightly off and end up with a slight twist that i cant notice until im placing them in the connectors after sleeving


I use a small panavise to hold the already crimped end of the wire. The wire can then be pulled straight while crimping the other end.


----------



## Craigk19

I don't own a vise I'll try the looping technique this weekend though


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> i do that with the terminals i have which are from Mod-One but what im talking about is when i do it to the opposite end of the wire making sure they both are facing up is kind of hard lol


Before you start roll each wire on a flat top to minimize the curving it has memorized while being coiled then cut the wire to the precise length and mark the inner line of the curve at each end just beyond where you are going to strip it, then when you crimp the wire the marks will tell you which way round the crimps should point.

Remember that when the PSU is in the bottom of the case which way up it is will determine whether you crimp the same side or the opposite side of the wires.

Sometimes the crossing over you have to do at the PSU end of the cable means that you can't work out in advance which way round the wire should be crimped.

When that happens it's best to use longer wires than necessary and crimp and sleeve one end of them then pull the sleeve taut and melt it over the uncrimped end of the wire.

Once you have the cable routed through to the PSU you can then organize how each wire is to be cut and crimped.

If you look in the AvariGold Build in my signature there's an image demonstrating how this can be done.


----------



## jleslie246

Im down to the last wires on my complete PC cabling project. I need ideas for molex (12V and 5V) connections. This will be for led lights (one 12V and one 5V), water pump (12V) and one fan controller (12V & 5V). I could just use the factory cable (evga) to power these but it would be the only cable not custom built.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Im down to the last wires on my complete PC cabling project. I need ideas for molex (12V and 5V) connections. This will be for led lights (one 12V and one 5V), water pump (12V) and one fan controller (12V & 5V). I could just use the factory cable (evga) to power these but it would be the only cable not custom built.





I have a bunch of these & they work very well together.

If your willing to use passthrough connectors. These would work very well. Specially for 5V Molex.

You can also buy them Here, Here, Here and Here.

So far only Moddiy & couple of shops on Aliexpress carry the gold plated terminals. Everyone else only carries tin plated version.

Or you can create Y Cables (Lite Soldering is Required) or Double Crimp two wires together & Daisy chain everything together(One few terminal that you can double crimp by Hand). I have gotten two 2.34mm 16 AWG inside a Molex terminal. Make sure you have the long wing version if your planning on doing the double crimp method.

Lastly you could use thisfrom CableMod. I think most people in this thread are trying to avoid CableMod.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> My wire stripper jaws are mis-aligned.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


As I mentioned in posts above ... there was probably something stopping the top jaw coming back to where it should be. A few random clicks and it reset. Anyway, I complained to knipex tools about the jaws being mis-aligned ... and then followed up with an email after they fixed themselves ... with the 2nd email asking for an instruction / maintenance manual.

Finally got a reply ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knipex customer service*
> Hello,
> We do not have an instruction manual.
> 
> Thank You!
> Kirsten Wise
> Customer Service Representative
> Phone: 847-398-8520 x 516
> Fax: 847-398-8526
> Email: [email protected]
> Website: www.knipex-tools.com


Well ... I guess they answered my question.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> As I mentioned in posts above ... there was probably something stopping the top jaw coming back to where it should be. A few random clicks and it reset. Anyway, I complained to knipex tools about the jaws being mis-aligned ... and then followed up with an email after they fixed themselves ... with the 2nd email asking for an instruction / maintenance manual.
> 
> Finally got a reply ...
> Well ... I guess they answered my question.


Instructions from knipex would do very little. I have instruction for there other tool. All it shows is a few pictures & there is not a single word in English in the entire thing. Sometimes I wonder why do they even bother creating & including instructions if there not going to translate it.

This is my favorite Wire Stripper: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0638170000_APPLICATION_TOOLIN.xml
Plus it allows you to swap the jaws out for other jaws designed for different type of wiring & size. It's cheaper then Knipex premium wire stripper Plus it's made by Molex. Can't go wrong with using Molex Brand.

As much as I like Knipex, Some of there recent tools feel a bit on the cheap side even on there more expensive hardware.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> This is my favorite Wire Stripper: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0638170000_APPLICATION_TOOLIN.xml
> Plus it allows you to swap the jaws out for other jaws designed for different type of wiring & size. It's cheaper then Knipex premium wire stripper Plus it's made by Molex. Can't go wrong with using Molex Brand.


Pressmaster is the manufacturers for a lot of the Molex branded tools. I have the same stripper (Pressmaster Embla SBC. http://www.pressmaster.se/products/. FYI, McMaster-Carr sells them for $68
https://www.mcmaster.com/#7221k24/=18e9ndp


----------



## Revan654

Looks like AlphaCool has jumped on the Cable Sleeving Bandwagon.





Everything is Paracord, There is no PET Sleeving.


----------



## SHNS0

Paracord costing more than MDPC-X. Friggin lel


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Paracord costing more than MDPC-X. Friggin lel


It is AlphaCool after all, They overcharge for there products, If they made there own terminals I bet they would charge more money then Molex. Not to mention there shady business practices and on top of that they will Never admit fault even when shown evidence.

all there sleeving looks like chinese sleeving that you can buy cheap on aliexpress.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> WW Grainger does the same thing. I was trying to find a countersink with a 1/8" diameter shank and a 3/6" or 1/4" diameter body a while back. All they had with 1/8" shanks also had 1/8" bodies yet every one of the illustrations for the 20 or so line items they showed at the time showed a countersink with a larger body than the shank. I had to open every listing to determine the actual size. I wasted a lot of time on that.


I hate that too. Even though McMaster-Carr doesn't list the manufacturer in most cases, their illustrations are usually accurate and you can download a solid model for a lot of the parts. Saves a ton of time when building an assembly of off the shelf parts.


----------



## Revan654

For those who used the Molex Branded Female ATX terminals. Which versions do you usually go with Brass or bronze? It just seems Brass is a bit weak & bends way to easily. Specially when you compare them to the terminals you get from Sleeving shops. I'm assuming the terminals from Sleeving use a very different metals.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> For those who used the Molex Branded Female ATX terminals. Which versions do you usually go with Brass or bronze? It just seems Brass is a bit weak & bends way to easily. Specially when you compare them to the terminals you get from Sleeving shops. I'm assuming the terminals from Sleeving use a very different metals.


This is what I've been using:http://www.molex.com/webdocs/datasheets/pdf/en-us/0039000077_CRIMP_TERMINALS.pdf
Mini-Fit® Female Crimp Terminal, Tin (Sn) over Copper (Cu) Plated Brass, 16 AWG, Reel.
What kind of problem are you having when you say they bend too easy?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> This is what I've been using:http://www.molex.com/webdocs/datasheets/pdf/en-us/0039000077_CRIMP_TERMINALS.pdf
> Mini-Fit® Female Crimp Terminal, Tin (Sn) over Copper (Cu) Plated Brass, 16 AWG, Reel.
> What kind of problem are you having when you say they' bend too easy?




They just don't seem to be strong when comparing to other terminals out there.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> They just don't seem to be strong when comparing to other terminals out there.


I've had that happen before, but it was because I overcrimped and/or didn't position the terminal correctly in the crimper.


----------



## iamjanco

That can happen to any terminal when too much pressure is applied while crimping. I've had it happen myself. See:

*Banana" (Excessive Bending) Terminal*:
Quote:


> One of the most descriptive crimping problems is known as a "banana" crimp (figure above), because the crimped terminal takes on a banana shape. This makes it difficult to insert the terminal into the housing and may cause terminal butting. This problem is easy to solve by not squeezing the hand crimper so hard!


Likely based on this information: *8. "Banana" (Excessive Bending) Terminal*, in Molex's _Good Crimps and How to Recognize Them_.


----------



## Revan654

I don't have any more terminals to test. Maybe I should switch back to my MDPC-X crimpers. Since the engineer crimper is causing problems.

So Bronze or Brass? For Gold plated version of Female ATX.


----------



## msd0

I found (actually it was Lady Fitzgerald's idea) that with the PA-21, you will get better results if you do the insulation crimp first.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> I found (actually it was Lady Fitzgerald's idea) that with the PA-21, you will get better results if you do the insulation crimp first.


I have done it both ways. Issue is the terminal tends to point downward (This happens before any kind of crimp happens). Just putting the terminal inside the die.


----------



## Himo5

The real secret with the Engineer crimpers is to do the Insulation Crimp first and *lightly*. Just get the wings to bow and compress until they no more than hold their place on the insulation, then once it is secure concentrate on getting a firm Wire Crimp. What your hands are having to learn is the exact pressure required to get a strong grip on the wire without deforming the bed of the crimp pin.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> The real secret with the Engineer crimpers is the do the Insulation Crimp first and *lightly*. Just get the wings to bow and compress until they no more than hold their place on the insulation, then once it is secure concentrate on getting a firm Wire Crimp. What your hands are having to learn is the exact pressure required to get a strong grip on the wire without deforming the bed of the crimp pin.


Someone did mod the crimpers & placed a metal plate on the back side so the terminals would never bend. The dies should be a bit thicker & most of this would be a non issue.


----------



## msd0

Is this what is happening when you crimp?


http://imgur.com/96v1B

I usually just bend the insulation tabs back while the terminal is still in the crimper.


----------



## msd0

Sort of unrelated, but what's the best way to upload pics from your phone (iOS)?


----------



## Revan654

Anyone have Calipers to measure the wing span for both insulation & Conductor barrel in mm?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Is this what is happening when you crimp?
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/96v1B
> 
> I usually just bend the insulation tabs back while the terminal is still in the crimper.


Kind of. I don't have any more terminals left to give an example.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Sort of unrelated, but what's the best way to upload pics from your phone (iOS)?


The Imgur app is the fastest.

Whatever happened to these terminals?



I noticed Molex only covers the inside of there terminals gold & the outside remains tin. I know the inside is the most important area. Is there a reason why they don't cover some of the outside in gold as well like other companies do?


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Anyone have Calipers to measure the wing span for both insulation & Conductor barrel in mm?


Here's the drawing:http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/039000077_sd.pdf
The width of the conductor wings are 2.3mm for 16AWG and 1.9mm for 18AWG. The width of the insulation wings are 3.6mm for both 16 and 18AWG.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Here's the drawing:http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/039000077_sd.pdf
> The width of the conductor wings are 2.3mm for 16AWG and 1.9mm for 18AWG. The width of the insulation wings are 3.6mm for both 16 and 18AWG.


the drawing sheet is kind of useless for this situation. Since both wings need to be parallel to on another to determine which die & size to use. The drawing sheet only shows the data for when the wings are spread apart.


----------



## Himo5

I use 172-9134 24-18awg pins with the insulation wings measuring 3.40widened which I then close down to 2.30mm. The wire crimp is 1.80mm. On the PA-21 I crimp the insulation in the 2.5mm jaw and the wire in the 1.9mm jaw.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Sort of unrelated, but what's the best way to upload pics from your phone (iOS)?


remember you asked for best.

get an android. that is all !


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> I use 172-9134 24-18awg pins with the insulation wings measuring 3.40widened which I then close down to 2.30mm. The wire crimp is 1.80mm. On the PA-21 I crimp the insulation in the 2.5mm jaw and the wire in the 1.9mm jaw.


I been using 2.2 for the conductor & 2.8 for the insulation.

1.9 & 2.5 is to tight of a fit for the terminal on the PAD-01.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> remember you asked for best.
> 
> get an android. that is all !


Last time I checked an android is does not use iOS. Your better off not using an android.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> remember you asked for best.
> 
> get an android. that is all !
> 
> 
> 
> Last time I checked an android is does not use iOS. Your far better off using an android.
Click to expand...

correct, that is why it is better- fixed it for you


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Last time I checked an android is does not use iOS. Your better off not using an android.


You'll get lots of holywar stuff about it here. Sorry, that's the internets.

Anyway, you'll find that in all probability no one knows of an acceptable solution for iOS. So far as I know, it just doesn't work.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> You'll get lots of holywar stuff about it here. Sorry, that's the internets.
> 
> Anyway, you'll find that in all probability no one knows of an acceptable solution for iOS. So far as I know, it just doesn't work.


Yea, I don't want this to turn into an iOS vs android debate. Just trying to figure out what method people are using to post pics.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Yea, I don't want this to turn into an iOS vs android debate. Just trying to figure out what method people are using to post pics.


The imgur app is the fastest since it post directly to your account. You could also just E-mail the photos to your self too.


----------



## Mega Man

the p[problem is all 3rd party image hosting sites suck. eventually the pics get too old, are removed, and it does not benefit the community when someone could learn something from your picture


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the p[problem is all 3rd party image hosting sites suck. eventually the pics get too old, are removed, and it does not benefit the community when someone could learn something from your picture


Nothing has been deleted so far from my account. Some photos I have uploaded are very old.


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Some buy since sleeving shop sells it & other buy since it crimps both crimp points at the same time.
> 
> ----
> 
> Anyone have photo or could post of a fully crimped photo of Molex Brand dupont terminal with 22 AWG wiring? I'm having a bit of trouble of crimping the terminal with 22 AWG wiring. I have the thinnest wiring mouser sells in the 22 AWG range. It just seem the terminal is pinching the wiring way to much.
> 
> This is the what I have: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/16-02-1124-Cut-Strip/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs%252bGHln7q6pm7bTr5iUP1qYx8IAfK8cmBaDNn6X%2fgj3ww%3d%3d
> 
> When Crimping this is what they turn out like:


Not Molex but dupont on 22awg using Engineer PA-20

http://i.imgur.com/If9qVp8.jpg


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> If what you get is what's pictured via their site, *Mod One's 4 pin fan connector housings* definitely aren't Molex branded (I checked both black and white versions). *MDPC-X*'s are (if you get what's pictured there), which can be firmed up via the spec'd drawing for *50-29-1559*.
> 
> Also confirmed that all of Molex's regular distros are out of stock and that if you want to order them, you'll probably end up having enough on hand to do fan connectors for the entire modder community in the City of Akron, Ohio. (Population: 197,859 (2014)).


I have some from mod-one and mainframe and neither are molex. The top one is Molex MXI-9 6471 which I believe is a old floppy drive power connector that I bought from ebay a long time ago.. The Bottom is LHE and I can't make out the mark on middle. looks like 1 725.


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> I use 172-9134 24-18awg pins with the insulation wings measuring 3.40widened which I then close down to 2.30mm. The wire crimp is 1.80mm. On the PA-21 I crimp the insulation in the 2.5mm jaw and the wire in the 1.9mm jaw.


I use 2.3 for 16awg pins and wire on PA-20 the same with 18awg. I like to crimp the wire first then use the ends of the crimper to squeeze the wings so that they are straight before crimping it down on the insulation. Trick is to hold the crimper with the fingers lightly rather than grip it. A quick light crimp they come out perfect.


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Teleios sleeve is chinese, that's why
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try MDPC-X next time


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Teleios sleeve is chinese, that's why
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try MDPC-X next time


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homingmystic*
> 
> I have been enjoying sleeving with Telios, but after two seperate orders from the same store have resulted in different shades of white sleeve. I was just wondering if this is common? I have attached an image to show the first order (left and vibrant white) and the second order (right and darker white).


Try bitspower sleeving. Its the best I've used, better than mdpc by quite a bit.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> Try bitspower sleeving. Its the best I've used, better than mdpc by quite a bit.


It's better then MFC sleeving, But still doesn't come close to MDPC-X.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> I have some from mod-one and mainframe and neither are molex. The top one is Molex MXI-9 6471 which I believe is a old floppy drive power connector that I bought from ebay a long time ago.. The Bottom is LHE and I can't make out the mark on middle. looks like 1 725.
> 
> snip


Middle one is most likely HWT or TKG.

That's what bugs me about MainFrame. They state there Molex quality but there clearly not.

Here is a bunch of connectors I have collected over the years.

Top to Bottom LHE, TKG, MQT, JWT (These are the connectors that Corsair uses), JMT, Finally Molex. I also have JSW There the same as JWT (These are the connectors BeQuiet uses).

As you can see only JMT has the specs of molex connectors. JMT are low wing versions.


----------



## Revan654

PAD crimper is still doing a terrible job with the terminal.

PAD Crimper


vs
MDPC-X Crimper


My first Fan is finished. Required some lite modding to get the sleeving through the the side cove area on the fan.







Massive Order Came in today from MDPC-X & Mouser. MDPC-X gave me allot extra black heatshrink + gave me color heatshrink for free. Didn't order close to what I got. They also gave me about an extra 30+ Sata terminals for free too.


----------



## Craigk19

dang your making a lot....


----------



## becks

Anyone here tried using liquid tape on the ends instead of the black heat-shrink ?


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> It's better then MFC sleeving, But still doesn't come close to MDPC-X.


Which do you prefer?

Top or Bottom?


Left or Right?


----------



## supermodjo

a litle help gys: from where to buy molex pins for fan? and ather cable sttufs? thank in advance i leave in europe


----------



## Chicken Patty

Hello all,

I receive today a shipment of goodies from MDPC. I have very little experience sleeping, it was more than five years ago. I've come across some guides. Is there any that you all recommend for beginners?


----------



## msd0

Liquid tape would just cover the end of the sleeve, whereas heat shrink melts and forms the sleeve over the terminal so that it stays in place and can fit in the connector.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Liquid tape would just cover the end of the sleeve, whereas heat shrink melts and forms the sleeve over the terminal so that it stays in place and can fit in the connector.


I know why heat-shrink is used...its in the name...it shrinks ...I was just curious if anyone tried the liquid tape as its very sticky till it dries


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> I know why heat-shrink is used...its in the name...it shrinks ...I was just curious if anyone tried the liquid tape as its very sticky till it dries


Are you talking about using liquid tape under the sleeve to help hold it in place or actually covering the end of the sleeve?


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Are you talking about using liquid tape under the sleeve to help hold it in place or actually covering the end of the sleeve?


Both or just one of those, will take another month or so till I start doing my cables so I was wondering if anyone did it so it spares me the time of actually trying it


----------



## PimpSkyline

@becks sent me here, can you help me?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermodjo*
> 
> a litle help gys: from where to buy molex pins for fan? and ather cable sttufs? thank in advance i leave in europe


All my items come from Mouser or MDPC-X.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I receive today a shipment of goodies from MDPC. I have very little experience sleeping, it was more than five years ago. I've come across some guides. Is there any that you all recommend for beginners?


I wrote this guide awhile back it might help.

Link: http://www.overclock.net/t/1610817/build-log-project-frost-case-labs-thw10-x99-watercooled-i7-6950x-titan-x/540#post_26048849


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I wrote this guide awhile back it might help.
> 
> Link: http://www.overclock.net/t/1610817/build-log-project-frost-case-labs-thw10-x99-watercooled-i7-6950x-titan-x/540#post_26048849


Thank you so much, I will look it over the first chance I get!


----------



## Revan654

Anyone know where to get good quality ribbon style wiring (22 AWG) 4 & 5 conductors at a decent price? Moddiy is expensive it's around 2 dollars for 12" Performance-pcs gets there ribbon wiring from Moddiy which is the same price.


----------



## Mega Man

Not all black wiring.

I know where to get rainbow, idk the awg though


----------



## iamjanco

I tried finding some good ribbon cable myself (I prefer fep), but just about everything I came across was exorbitantly priced. I found something suitable, but would have had to purchase 100 feet of it at $3.60/ft.


----------



## Revan654

3M sells 100ft for 60 dollars vs Molex 100ft for 120 dollars vs Moddiy which is 160 dollars for 100ft(That Includes 10% off). Moddiy overcharges for everything.

Anyone use AlphaWire PVC 22 AWG? Just wondering if the wiring is soft like there 16 AWG wiring.


----------



## SHNS0

Does anyone have a clue for what crimper I could use (on a budget!) to crimp 2.0 milligrid pins?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Does anyone have a clue for what crimper I could use (on a budget!) to crimp 2.0 milligrid pins?


I use Engineer PA-09 for all my small terminals. You can get the crimper for about 30 to 40 dollars(less if you buy them used). Be careful when looking for budget crimpers some don't have any teeth in the dies which will create very bad crimps.


----------



## geort45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Thanks for your feedback guys!
> 
> I've been doing braiding occasionally since a while, here's a couple more pictures. Some people absolutely love it, others just can't seem to like it. It's really a love or hate thing.


Looks amazing! Those shapes remind me of the nanosuit!


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I use Engineer PA-09 for all my small terminals. You can get the crimper for about 30 to 40 dollars(less if you buy them used). Be careful when looking for budget crimpers some don't have any teeth in the dies which will create very bad crimps.


I think I have one of those, going to give it a try.
I was looking for a ratchet one mainly for speed.
If I have to crimp a USB 3.0 extension with a PA-09, heck.... It's going to take forever lol.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> I think I have one of those, going to give it a try.
> I was looking for a ratchet one mainly for speed.
> If I have to crimp a USB 3.0 extension with a PA-09, heck.... It's going to take forever lol.


Based on size of the terminal & wiring OD. Sometimes the Racket will not fully crimp the terminal. I have a few terminals that my MDPC-X crimper doesn't crimp correctly.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> I think I have one of those, going to give it a try.
> I was looking for a ratchet one mainly for speed.
> If I have to crimp a USB 3.0 extension with a PA-09, heck.... It's going to take forever lol.


The engineer crimpers work really well on smaller terminals. You get a better "feel" without the ratchet and the narrow jaws make it easier to see what your doing.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Anyone know if there is any place that sells connectors for RGB cables (as in those that will fit Aura headers and so on)? I can only seem to find pre crimped cables with the sealed housing, and I'd prefer not having to cut and solder cables before sleeving. The regular PWM connectors for fans seem to have the correct spacing but the pins on the motherboard is to short so it doesn't clamp on properly.


----------



## lowfat

I'm not familiar w/ those cables. Can you post a picture of the connector?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Anyone know if there is any place that sells connectors for RGB cables (as in those that will fit Aura headers and so on)? I can only seem to find pre crimped cables with the sealed housing, and I'd prefer not having to cut and solder cables before sleeving. The regular PWM connectors for fans seem to have the correct spacing but the pins on the motherboard is to short so it doesn't clamp on properly.


PWM fan connectors are to large.

I'm pretty sure the side that connects to the motherboard is microblade connector. I know EK uses the Microblade connector for there RGB MonoBlocks.

Connector: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0510040400_CRIMP_HOUSINGS.xml
Terminal: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0500118100_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml



Not sure if the motherboard would accept the normal RGB 5050 connector.


----------



## jleslie246

I need male ATX pins but mod-one is out. What is another good source?

I found some on Amazon, $12 for 100. Are these decent? Im just building an extension for a client build.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> I need male ATX pins but mod-one is out. What is another good source?


MainFrameCustoms, ModmyMods, Performance-PCS all sell Male ATX.

or Is you want Molex brand Mouser.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I'm not familiar w/ those cables. Can you post a picture of the connector?


I'm referring to what seems to be the most common connector for RGB strips these days, though I may just think they are common since it's the one I have on my motherboard.

Here is a picture of an extension cable using the connector I'm referring to:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> PWM fan connectors are to large.
> 
> I'm pretty sure the side that connects to the motherboard is microblade connector. I know EK uses the Microblade connector for there RGB MonoBlocks.
> 
> Connector: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0510040400_CRIMP_HOUSINGS.xml
> Terminal: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0500118100_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if the motherboard would accept the normal RGB 5050 connector.


That may work, though the 4 pin fan connectors also have the correct pitch it's just a bit to short to use them. At any rate I'll take a look at those micro blade connectors.

Oh and here is the motherboard I have for reference. Seems like it should support 5050 strips at least.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> PWM fan connectors are to large.
> 
> I'm pretty sure the side that connects to the motherboard is microblade connector. I know EK uses the Microblade connector for there RGB MonoBlocks.
> 
> Connector: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0510040400_CRIMP_HOUSINGS.xml
> Terminal: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0500118100_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if the motherboard would accept the normal RGB 5050 connector.


I built my own rgb cable from parts ordered off amazon. The motherboard header is the male side, so just buy any type of extension cable, cut to length then put on a new end. Thats what I did and it worked great.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> I built my own rgb cable from parts ordered off amazon. The motherboard header is the male side, so just buy any type of extension cable, cut to length then put on a new end. Thats what I did and it worked great.


That's one option, but I prefer not having to splice the cables. Though if I have to then I will do it like that, also you can get the connector with a short stub of cable a hell of a lot cheaper then on Amazon if you just look in the correct places (Aliexpress for one).


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> I built my own rgb cable from parts ordered off amazon. The motherboard header is the male side, so just buy any type of extension cable, cut to length then put on a new end. Thats what I did and it worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> That's one option, but I prefer not having to splice the cables. Though if I have to then I will do it like that, also you can get the connector with a short stub of cable a hell of a lot cheaper then on Amazon if you just look in the correct places (Aliexpress for one).
Click to expand...

Methinks jleslie246 was suggesting getting an extension cable that is long enough for your needs, cut the unneeded end off, then crimp on pins for a connector that will fit into your PSU or one of your power cables. That's how I make cables that have a male SATA power connector on one end.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Methinks jleslie246 was suggesting getting an extension cable that is long enough for your needs, cut the unneeded end off, then crimp on pins for a connector that will fit into your PSU or one of your power cables. That's how I make cables that have a male SATA power connector on one end.


I see... well at any rate that won't really work with RGB lights though I can crimp on some fan connectors and use that to connect all the LED strips. The thing is I have a significant amount of LEDs that need to be connected so I need to make a lot of 4 pin cables connecting them all together.

Still I would really prefer being able to make cables from scratch with housing and crimps, but if that's not possible in this case then I will get creative and use other alternatives.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I see... well at any rate that won't really work with RGB lights though I can crimp on some fan connectors and use that to connect all the LED strips. The thing is I have a significant amount of LEDs that need to be connected so I need to make a lot of 4 pin cables connecting them all together.
> 
> Still I would really prefer being able to make cables from scratch with housing and crimps, but if that's not possible in this case then I will get creative and use other alternatives.


You can use a fan hub for numerous light connections. Just make sure it passes 4 pins and not just 2. And yes, all the parts, including the lights, were under $15 from Amazon for my set up.


----------



## Revan654

MDPC-X has officially retired there crimpers & have introduced there new ones "Crimping Tool CTX3". There's no picture currently. There set to be released on July 25th.


----------



## Revan654

The molex versions of Sata Punch Down connectors are so much easier to work with then those cheap TKG connectors that Moddiy sells. TKG may allow 16 AWG but it comes with some issues. The Molex version actual holds the wiring in place & does not allow any kind of movement.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The molex versions of Sata Punch Down connectors are so much easier to work with then those cheap TKG connectors that Moddiy sells. TKG may allow 16 AWG but it comes with some issues. The Molex version actual holds the wiring in place & does not allow any kind of movement.


Curious. I have had no problems using the "cheap TKG connectors that ModDIY sells".


----------



## SDBolts619

Okay, this might be the right place or it might not...

I need to make some new cables for my GTX 1080 Ti. I've got a Silverstone ST1000-PSU. Making 8-pin PCI cables is a straight 1:1 on the wiring, right? Did a Google search for Silverstone PCI pinout and can't find squat!


----------



## lowfat

1:1 is not a straight through cable. 1:1 means that the wire in pin 1 on PSU side connector goes to pin 1 on the motherboard side connector.


----------



## SDBolts619

Sorry, I meant that the PCI cables are pinned the same way on both sides.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> Okay, this might be the right place or it might not...
> 
> I need to make some new cables for my GTX 1080 Ti. I've got a Silverstone ST1000-PSU. Making 8-pin PCI cables is a straight 1:1 on the wiring, right? Did a Google search for Silverstone PCI pinout and can't find squat!


Just copy the pinout on the cables that came with your psu.


----------



## SHNS0

Can't wait to try the new MDPC-X crimper.

Here's another braided one I did recently as a sample for a customer. Now that he got it, he's absolutely sure he wants the rest of the set lol.


----------



## bolo1800

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Can't wait to try the new MDPC-X crimp
> 
> How new is it I wonder? Mine's about 4 months old.


----------



## becks

Anyone here was able to source a 90 degree 24 pin connector from somewhere ? Like a pass trough 90 degree - Female - Male


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Anyone here was able to source a 90 degree 24 pin connector from somewhere ? Like a pass trough 90 degree - Female - Male


Never ever seen one. Only way to do it is with a custom adapter with cables + 3d printing a cover.
That, or you have enough cojones to desolder the original connector from the motherboard and place an angled one.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

I wish manufacturers would sell MOBOs with a choice of cable sockets on the top or on the bottom of the board.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Never ever seen one. Only way to do it is with a custom adapter with cables + 3d printing a cover.
> That, or you have enough cojones to desolder the original connector from the motherboard and place an angled one.


Something like this : ?


Than print a cover ?
I wonder if there isn't any sleveing wide enough ...


----------



## SHNS0

Yup exactly like that, with a cover


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Yup exactly like that, with a cover


Are you up for a challenge ? (paid off course







)


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Are you up for a challenge ? (paid off course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Can make you the adapter cable, but my current 3D printing partner is at its peak of unreliablility so I'll have to pass to avoid headaches for both








Check if there's anyone in your area that can make it, a lot of talented people work in the UK and you'll probably find one that also has a 3D printer


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Can make you the adapter cable, but my current 3D printing partner is at its peak of unreliablility so I'll have to pass to avoid headaches for both
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check if there's anyone in your area that can make it, a lot of talented people work in the UK and you'll probably find one that also has a 3D printer


Will try and shout around and / or make a thread later but if nobody "suitable" replies will have to go with you







(I constantly come to Italy - Perugia)


----------



## Himo5

It would be simpler to do this with Polymorph.

Moreover, if you want a different colour to black you could use a white male/female 24 pin connector pair and then dye them with Jacquard Idye Poly which can also be used to dye the Polymorph - just pour the crystals into the dye bath and they form together into a reusable lump - afterwards just apply a heatgun or a lighter, wait for it to cool down a bit then use the 3-4 minute malleability window to shape it how you want.


----------



## SDBolts619

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Just copy the pinout on the cables that came with your psu.


Yeah, that won't work - I made custom cables for my rig when I built it and those cards used 6pin PCI connectors. I ended up pulling out my Thermaltake Power Doctor and multimeter to check the wiring once I had the PSU side connector done.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> It would be simpler to do this with Polymorph.
> 
> Moreover, if you want a different colour to black you could use a white male/female 24 pin connector pair and then dye them with Jacquard Idye Poly which can also be used to dye the Polymorph - just pour the crystals into the dye bath and they form together into a reusable lump - afterwards just apply a heatgun or a lighter, wait for it to cool down a bit then use the 3-4 minute malleability window to shape it how you want.


Thanks for the suggestion







will keep that in mind


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will keep that in mind


White connector housings take Idye Poly very quickly once it gets over 80C degrees.

You get workable tints before the end of the first minute and dark colours before the end of the 2nd minute.

The same goes for the Polymorph - by the time you've stirred it round to collect the lump together it's time to take it out.

You need a quick, clock controlled, extraction technique at the ready to cope with the drips - string connectors together and hold them in on the string with a rag or towel in the other hand ready to catch the drips.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Can make you the adapter cable, but my current 3D printing partner is at its peak of unreliablility so I'll have to pass to avoid headaches for both
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check if there's anyone in your area that can make it, a lot of talented people work in the UK and you'll probably find one that also has a 3D printer


What do you have for a printer?


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> What do you have for a printer?


Have a dude printing with a Zortax (is it called that way?) that did all my combs up until now, and actually I think he now has an even better printer.
But holy hell is he unreliable af. Had a customer waiting 3 weeks on top of my waiting times because this dude would always forget sending me combs and making excuses. And this customer was understandably mad as hell.








So air-headed, he still has to let me know how much I owe him and now's been two months.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> MDPC-X has officially retired there crimpers & have introduced there new ones "Crimping Tool CTX3". There's no picture currently. There set to be released on July 25th.


Pictures of the new MDPC-X crimp tool are up
https://www.cable-sleeving.com/crimping-tool


----------



## SHNS0

Already ordered one lol


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

The thing I don't like about crimpers that crimp both the conductor and insulation wings at the same time is not all wire has the same thickness of insulation, depending on brand and on wire size. I prefer to just crimp the insulation wings first, then crimp the conductor wings after that. I can also see what I'm doing better.


----------



## SHNS0

It really depends on the personal needs, when I do stuff for myself and I can take my time I do use my Engineer..... But for productivity nothing beats a ratchet crimper.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> It really depends on the personal needs, when I do stuff for myself and I can take my time I do use my Engineer..... But for productivity nothing beats a ratchet crimper.


I found ratcheting crimpers to be slower and clumsier for me and gave poorer crimps overall. It depends on the person using them.


----------



## Himo5

I seem to remember a time between the first build I ever did with a ratchet crimper and the 4th build when I was very happy with my Nils Crimper.

But then it started ruining terminals again without my being able to blame it on my operation of the tool.

I think that the carefully ground and twinned crimping jaws on a ratchet crimper wear down fairly quickly and not very evenly.

The Engineer crimpers - and perhaps most single crimp tools - seem to have been hardened after being ground, so that they are not so prone to this wearing down process.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> I seem to remember a time between the first build I ever did with a ratchet crimper and the 4th build when I was very happy with my Nils Crimper.
> 
> But then it started ruining terminals again without my being able to blame it on my operation of the tool.
> 
> I think that the carefully ground and twinned crimping jaws on a ratchet crimper wear down fairly quickly and not very evenly.
> 
> The Engineer crimpers - and perhaps most single crimp tools - seem to have been hardened after being ground, so that they are not so prone to this wearing down process.


What do you consider quickly? I've crimped many thousands of crimps w/ my MDPC-X crimpers and they are still fantastic.


----------



## msd0

In the description of the new crimpers, it says the jaws have been hardened so they shouldn't wear out. I machined the jaws on one of the generic Chinese crimpers and they were very soft. If the older MDPC-X crimpers were anything like that, I could definitely see how they would wear out.


----------



## SHNS0

The old model, as far as I know, was a Taiwan import (YYT-B10) with cast jaws that were individually modded by Nils to achieve good crimping. I tried it, worked much better than both my SN-28B and my stock YYT-B10, but I didn't have long term experience with it. It was even able to give me a solid crimp that passed pull test on a worst case scenario: a short-wing terminal with AWG18 cable. All my other crimpers failed in that.


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> In the description of the new crimpers, it says the jaws have been hardened so they shouldn't wear out. I machined the jaws on one of the generic Chinese crimpers and they were very soft. If the older MDPC-X crimpers were anything like that, I could definitely see how they would wear out.


The first thing I did when the crimps started deteriorating was to get another crimper but it was during Nils' long holiday so I went to a store that said they were supplying MDPX crimpers.

This crimper looks exactly like the Nils but the jaws hadn't been ground at all and crushed anything that was put in them.

When I tried to grind them into some sort of usefulness I found the metal very soft.

I could work them with a needle nose file very easily.

The trouble was that I really had no idea what I was doing, so I never completed the project.


----------



## Revan654

My Engineer (PAD-01 - Contains all the dies) does crappy job at crimping Molex Brand Mini Fit Jr & certain Sata terminals. Not to mention I have to keeping straightening the terminal before crimping the next part.

However the MDPC-X crimpers crimps them perfectly. It uses the same size die thickness I would use on engineer tool

btw, PAD & PA crimpers use different dies & thickness. Whats works for PA may not work for PAD & vice versa.

Can you tell the difference? Which one was done by Engineer & what one was done by MDPC-X Crimper?



of Course Molex Brand crimpers are the still the best to use if you can afford them & able to buy all the different versions. It would cost about 1200 dollars in crimpers to cover most of the PC terminals(Mini Fit Jr. , Sata, Dupont, Fan, etc...) Of course the smaller the terminal the more expensive the crimper becomes.

The new MDPC-X crimpers now officially support s 16 AWG (All the way down to 15 AWG). You could crimp 16 AWG before but crimpers were only suppose to go down to 18 AWG. It also supports all the standards from molex.



and Yes I did buy the new crimpers & I was also the first person to buy them too.

On a Side Note, Mod-One has officially started doing custom Cables for selected PSU's. Reminder they do use tin for there terminals, no Gold plating. If you want sleeved cable professionally done with gold plated terminals. Only place I know of off the top of my head is singularity Computer.


----------



## lowfat

Last few days I've trying to organize my electronics / modding / sleeving desk. All the parts were designed by me in Autodesk Fusion 360 and printed on my DIY 3d printer. The wire spool holder holds two 100ft spools. Also created a small wire feed so the wire is easily grabbed when I need it.

http://hostthenpost.org

http://hostthenpost.org

This one holds my Knipex strippers, MDPC-X crimpers, Channellock crimpers, lightter, and two of the rolls of 1/8" and 3/16" heatshrink that I use for pretty much everything. I made a small issue during printing as I tried to lower temperature of the printer mid-print. So it made a nasty looking part on the side. Not going to reprint it though since this thing is 250g, which is about $7 of plastic.








http://hostthenpost.org

Still going to print a few more caddies for flush cutters, butane torch, and general storage.


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Epic stuff


That's sick man!!!!! Amazing setup.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> On a Side Note, Mod-One has officially started doing custom Cables for selected PSU's. Reminder they do use tin for there terminals, no Gold plating. If you want sleeved cable professionally done with gold plated terminals. Only place I know of off the top of my head is singularity Computer.


Tinned pins are really not a deal breaker imho. Ok gold is cool and everything, less degradation theoreticaly in the long term, but in the end all works fine. I'd still get a tinned JMT or Molex pin over a gold-plated HWT one.
And, well, in the end HWT ones work decently too.


----------



## SDBolts619

@Lowfat - that's a pretty sweet setup. Wish I had that kind of deal when I was doing my new GPU cables.

But they're done and in:


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> That's sick man!!!!! Amazing setup.
> Tinned pins are really not a deal breaker imho. Ok gold is cool and everything, less degradation theoreticaly in the long term, but in the end all works fine. I'd still get a tinned JMT or Molex pin over a gold-plated HWT one.
> And, well, in the end HWT ones work decently too.


Gold has allot of advantages, This thread has been over most of them(Not going repeat them). Another reason to use gold over tin is no burn left over on gold where tin suffers from this. HWT connectors are very cheap the walls tend to collapse very easily. It's specially noticeable when doing Sata cables.


----------



## Agueybana_II

1st time sleeving, working on ITX case should I get make shorter cables or sleeve existing?

Case LIAN LI Q10 | PS Seasonic 750 Gold.

I feel like I can get away using existing 24 and 8 pins and make shorter cables for GPU. I will post pic later.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agueybana_II*
> 
> 1st time sleeving, working on ITX case should I get make shorter cables or sleeve existing?
> 
> Case LIAN LI Q10 | PS Seasonic 750 Gold.
> 
> I feel like I can get away using existing 24 and 8 pins and make shorter cables for GPU. I will post pic later.


I assume your ask should you create your own or use the existing wire. That's up to you, If you don't know how to crimp or solder to create Y cables. It's better to use the existing wiring. Sleeving like MDPC-X will slide right over the existing terminals & no crimping would be required.


----------



## Revan654

Anyone know what the smallest OD for Cable sleeving is (PET or Paracord)? I have some PET sleeving that's 1.5mm, I want to get some that even smaller. I recall there some Paracord out there that's even smaller.


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Gold has allot of advantages, This thread has been over most of them(Not going repeat them). Another reason to use gold over tin is no burn left over on gold where tin suffers from this. HWT connectors are very cheap the walls tend to collapse very easily. It's specially noticeable when doing Sata cables.


For the burn, I just make the heatshrink longer to cover all the pin


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agueybana_II*
> 
> 1st time sleeving, working on ITX case should I get make shorter cables or sleeve existing?
> 
> Case LIAN LI Q10 | PS Seasonic 750 Gold.
> 
> I feel like I can get away using existing 24 and 8 pins and make shorter cables for GPU. I will post pic later.


If this is your first time sleeving, I would start from scratch. That way, you can take your time and not have to worry about messing up the original cables.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> For the burn, I just make the heatshrink longer to cover all the pin


You can cover it, The burn effect can get through heatshrink very easily.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> You can cover it, The burn effect can get through heatshrink very easily.


Are you talking about the black soot (carbon) that you get from a lighter?


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Anyone know what the smallest OD for Cable sleeving is (PET or Paracord)? I have some PET sleeving that's 1.5mm, I want to get some that even smaller. I recall there some Paracord out there that's even smaller.


I've used *micro paracord* to sleeve the wires for the motherboard connectors (and individual fan wires), In the UK there's limited colours available, maybe there's a wider selection in other countries. I've sleeved using a micro paracord thickness of around 2mm and also *1.1mm*. I struggled a lot with the 1.1mm stuff, 2mm was relatively easy.

I've also got some *nano paracord* but I'd struggle to sleeve with that.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I've used *micro paracord* to sleeve the wires for the motherboard connectors (and individual fan wires), In the UK there's limited colours available, maybe there's a wider selection in other countries. I've sleeved using a micro paracord thickness of around 2mm and also *1.1mm*. I struggled a lot with the 1.1mm stuff, 2mm was relatively easy.
> 
> I've also got some *nano paracord* but I'd struggle to sleeve with that.




I thought micro to Nano has zero Inner Strands. atlease place I'm looking micro paracord seem to be solid. Paracord 95 seems like the smallest for sleeving.

My wiring is tiny, it's only about 1.2mm (22AWG). I'm trying to find the smallest sleeving possible.


----------



## Big Elf

The nano paracord I have from that earlier link has a single inner strand in it.

I know with the micro paracord I had to sleeve it first before crimping on the pins and that was either with AWG 22 or 24 (can't remember now). Just checked it again and that also has a single inner strand. The micro paracord I bought is supposed to be 2mm diameter but I make it around 1.3mm.


----------



## becks

Hey Guys and Girls, Me again...

What do you use as a mat when you doing your soldering and stuff ?
I don't have a "working bench" so it will have to be my desk...I want to protect it. as much as I can. At the same time I don't want to use any XXL large mouse mat as I am afraid of the thing catching up on fire.

Many thanks


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Hey Guys and Girls, Me again...
> 
> What do you use as a mat when you doing your soldering and stuff ?
> I don't have a "working bench" so it will have to be my desk...I want to protect it. as much as I can. At the same time I don't want to use any XXL large mouse mat as I am afraid of the thing catching up on fire.
> 
> Many thanks


A quick and dirty mat would be a cheap cooking baking sheet. If you don't have one already you wouldn't mind sacrificing to the cause, you might be able to find one in a thrift store for a song.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> A quick and dirty mat would be a cheap cooking baking sheet. If you don't have one already you wouldn't mind sacrificing to the cause, you might be able to find one in a thrift store for a song.


Like the Teflon BBQ cooking sheet's ? I tough there might be something more "specialized" on the market... given that we already have like anti static hardware assembly mats...


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Like the Teflon BBQ cooking sheet's ? I tough there might be something more "specialized" on the market... given that we already have like anti static hardware assembly mats...


There are *other options*, but I think most either use an area they have set up for the purpose, or are just more careful when soldering. Your concern is understandable though.


----------



## becks

Thank you @iamjanco sometimes I tend to over-complicate things...should'v searched Amazon/Ebay before I posted here. I imagined they will have a more technical complicated name or something.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> A quick and dirty mat would be a cheap cooking baking sheet. If you don't have one already you wouldn't mind sacrificing to the cause, you might be able to find one in a thrift store for a song.
> 
> 
> 
> Like the Teflon BBQ cooking sheet's ? I tough there might be something more "specialized" on the market... given that we already have like anti static hardware assembly mats...
Click to expand...

I was thinking more in terms of the old, uncoated metal cookie sheets. All you need is some kind of simple barrier to protect your desk. There is no need to overthink this or spend a fortune for something expensive (although a Teflon cookie sheet could be rolled up for storage). Just about anything thin and nonflammable will work.

If you just want to spend money for something, look up soldering mat on eBay or Amazon.


----------



## lowfat

@p0Pe posted a vid on reddit showing how he does his cable management. Pretty similar to how I do it. I may help someone.






For some reason the vid won't embed.


----------



## SHNS0

Saw it before, I agreed with you on the comment about clear heatshrink







so much better
I am really liking his combs and closing the sleeve with the lighter during the first stretching


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Saw it before, I agreed with you on the comment about clear heatshrink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so much better
> I am really liking his combs and closing the sleeve with the lighter during the first stretching


So was he melting the sleeve over the uncrimped end to hold the sleeving in place (after stretching)? I haven't tried it, but it seems like the sleeving would slip.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> So was he melting the sleeve over the uncrimped end to hold the sleeving in place (after stretching)? I haven't tried it, but it seems like the sleeving would slip.


You could use a zip tie. However then you'd have to feed your wires backwards through the system and you couldn't fit it through any more combs afterward. That is how I've been doing it for years. I'm trying the melting way now. However I'm having issues getting the melted end small enough to fit through a comb w/o using heatshrink. I'd like to avoid wasting heatshrink here if possible.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> @p0Pe posted a vid on reddit showing how he does his cable management. Pretty similar to how I do it. I may help someone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some reason the vid won't embed.


He could have it disabled in the options (Only uploader has control over that).

---

My new method of sleeving/melting has cut my time in half. Only takes about 8 seconds for each end.




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Hey Guys and Girls, Me again...
> 
> What do you use as a mat when you doing your soldering and stuff ?
> I don't have a "working bench" so it will have to be my desk...I want to protect it. as much as I can. At the same time I don't want to use any XXL large mouse mat as I am afraid of the thing catching up on fire.
> 
> Many thanks


I just use case-Labs double res plate (Which was mis-drilled). I do all my cutting (Hot Knife) & soldering on it. As long as you don't have the tip laying against the mat, there usually no chance have that happening. Plus most decent irons are designed to have all the heated area elevated so it will never touch any surface.


----------



## AlexNiko

I've been watching your theme, but decided to write just now








Simply share the idea, as i do the fan wires:



3-pin, 4-pin fans and USB (Dupont 10-Pin) sleeving cables:


----------



## AlexNiko

24-pin cale with Teleios sleeve
Carbon Gray & Carbon Fiber combo:




... it looks just great!

12 mm buttons:



custom sleeved cables for my new project:


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> 24-pin cale with Teleios sleeve
> Carbon Gray & Carbon Fiber combo:
> 
> Snip


Some interesting ideas. Specially with the fan cable connectors, I can't say I seen those before. I mainly use Molex branded connectors.

As It was talked about before Teleios has plenty of issues, It why I stopped using them & went with high quality brand (MDPC-X). MDPC-X is made in-house.


----------



## Revan654

My PSU cables are Complete. Classic Black MDPC-X with Fiber Carbon Cable Combs. These are best cable combs you can get currently, there not the cheap acrylic version that most places use.

---




This is my method for soldering double wires, I double crimp first & then add some solder for better connectivity. I could get away with just double crimp, However with added solder it will hold & don't have to worry about it coming apart.


----------



## AlexNiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Some interesting ideas. Specially with the fan cable connectors, I can't say I seen those before. I mainly use Molex branded connectors.


I use Molex connectors too, in the photo these connectors with caps
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> As It was talked about before Teleios has plenty of issues, It why I stopped using them & went with high quality brand (MDPC-X). MDPC-X is made in-house.


I like the Teleios sleeve it has a tighter weave than MDPC-X sleeve. I tested many different types of sleeve (including MDPC-X) but stopped at Telios, this is my choice.


----------



## msd0

Revan, are you using a mini-fit jr terminal with the end cut off for your splices?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> I use Molex connectors too, in the photo these connectors with caps
> I like the Teleios sleeve it has a tighter weave than MDPC-X sleeve. I tested many different types of sleeve (including MDPC-X) but stopped at Telios, this is my choice.


Where are you getting these caps from?

Each has there own I guess. Telios is just very inconsistent, Telios is imported from China, If you need bulk order you can get it very cheap on marketplace.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Revan, are you using a mini-fit jr terminal with the end cut off for your splices?


No, I'm using 5 1/4" device power connector (aka Molex) Since it's the largest terminal for PSU cables. Just make sure you have the longer wing version. Doesn't matter on the plating (tin is fine, since your going to solder it with tin anyways). I just had gold plated versions. Not sure if I have any tin versions.

I'm using JMT Brand if you were wondering.

It can be a bit tricky to crimp the two wires(Machines are usually used for double wire crimps), Specially for thicker wring. This method is easiest & it has a fail safe. Even if soldering / crimp fail you have soldering / crimp to fall back on.

You can do this with a racket crimpers (if you have helping hand tool, it will help). Also make sure you pinch the terminal together again the wires(It might hold long enough to get them inside the crimper). I also put the lose wire on the bottom.

This method will also work on creating Molex & Sata cables. You can fit three 18 AWG wires into the terminal.

You might be able to use the Mini-Fit Jr if you have the Extra long wing version(Most places do not sell these).

You want about 5mm cut, You can use xacto knife or if your careful flush cutters.

When Soldering you can't use the normal method of holding solder iron at the bottom & letting the solder wire run from the top. you have to apply it in sections with wire & solder iron in the same place.


----------



## AlexNiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Where are you getting these caps from?


quite simply, it caps from DIY USB connectors:
https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/10pc-lot-DIY-USB-2-0-A-Male-Assembly-Adapter-Connector-Plug-Socket-black/1886208753.html?spm=a2g0v.10010108.1000016.1.5cfe4521avgXpt&isOrigTitle=true
and
https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-DIY-Micro-USB-Type-B-Male-5pin-Four-Piece-Assembly-Connector-Plug-Socket/504892482.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.jhbanR





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Each has there own I guess. Telios is just very inconsistent, Telios is imported from China, If you need bulk order you can get it very cheap on marketplace.


It doesn't matter if the product is excellent quality

You sure that the MDPC sleeve produced in Germany?


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Where are you getting these caps from?
> 
> 
> 
> quite simply, it caps from DIY USB connectors:
> https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/10pc-lot-DIY-USB-2-0-A-Male-Assembly-Adapter-Connector-Plug-Socket-black/1886208753.html?spm=a2g0v.10010108.1000016.1.5cfe4521avgXpt&isOrigTitle=true
> and
> https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-DIY-Micro-USB-Type-B-Male-5pin-Four-Piece-Assembly-Connector-Plug-Socket/504892482.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.jhbanR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Each has there own I guess. Telios is just very inconsistent, Telios is imported from China, If you need bulk order you can get it very cheap on marketplace.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It doesn't matter if the product is excellent quality
> 
> You sure that the MDPC sleeve produced in Germany?
Click to expand...

Can you provide links to the English version of the site? My Russian is even worse than my Sanskrit.


----------



## lowfat

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-lot-DIY-USB-2-0-A-Male-Assembly-Adapter-Connector-Plug-Socket-Nickel-plated-Gold/32796827824.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.1.QUnsi8&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10065_10151_10130_10068_5430020_5410020_10139_10307_10137_10060_10155_10154_10056_10055_10054_10059_5370017_5380011_100031_10099_5400020_10103_10102_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051_5390020_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10178_10110_10111_10112_10113_10114_10312_10313_10314_10315_10078_10079_5420017_10073,searchweb201603_5,ppcSwitch_7&btsid=d00fbdf9-e0ed-4276-bfe2-4735fe679721&algo_expid=8dbe2238-9d67-463f-9de5-d4b8e4aaf1ca-0&algo_pvid=8dbe2238-9d67-463f-9de5-d4b8e4aaf1ca&transAbTest=ae803_3


----------



## AlexNiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Can you provide links to the English version of the site? My Russian is even worse than my Sanskrit.


DIY USB 2.0 A Male Assembly Adapter Connector Plug Socket black for 4-pin fan connectors and for USB (10-pin Dupont) if trimmed cap inside.

DIY Micro USB Type B Male 5pin Four Piece Assembly Connector Plug Socket for 3-pin fan connectors


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> snip
> 
> You sure that the MDPC sleeve produced in Germany?


It doesn't matter if the product is excellent quality? what?

Yes, Everything is done in-house. It's why MDPC-X is the preferred sleeving.

I used Telios before, There just to many issues with that sleeving. I even got a batch once that wouldn't even accept 2mm wiring. Even the color of the sleeving can be off from batch to batch. There pictures somewhere in this thread showing the difference. The order was only two weeks apart.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Can you provide links to the English version of the site? My Russian is even worse than my Sanskrit.
> 
> 
> 
> DIY USB 2.0 A Male Assembly Adapter Connector Plug Socket black for 4-pin fan connectors and for USB (10-pin Dupont) if trimmed cap inside.
> 
> DIY Micro USB Type B Male 5pin Four Piece Assembly Connector Plug Socket for 3-pin fan connectors
Click to expand...

Thank you!


----------



## AlexNiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> It doesn't matter if the product is excellent quality? what?
> 
> Yes, Everything is done in-house. It's why MDPC-X is the preferred sleeving.
> 
> I used Telios before, There just to many issues with that sleeving. I even got a batch once that wouldn't even accept 2mm wiring. Even the color of the sleeving can be off from batch to batch. There pictures somewhere in this thread showing the difference. The order was only two weeks apart.


I have other information








My first sleeve was from MDPC-X. It was five years ago. I'm not saying it is bad, just do not like.
I used a lot of sleeves from different manufacturers. If you like MDPC sleeve - use it, but d'not say that she is the best.
That is a matter of taste







.


----------



## AlexNiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Thank you!


no problem!


----------



## AlexNiko

Double Wire, my version )
Silicone wire Turnigy 18AWG, carbon sleeve from DIY modding and two heat-shrink tubes.






and the last photo today, the buttons for Case Labs case



caps.. again ))


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> I have other information
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first sleeve was from MDPC-X. It was five years ago. I'm not saying it is bad, just do not like.
> I used a lot of sleeves from different manufacturers. If you like MDPC sleeve - use it, but d'not say that she is the best.
> That is a matter of taste
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


If you say so, without showing proof it's your word against others.

That is a long time ago, Things most likely have changed since then.

Best is matter of opinion which is after all my opinion. Among the issues I do not like the feel of Telios (It's bit on the rough side compared to other PET Sleeving).

MDPC-X is by far my favorite & easiest to use. DarkSide & Bitspower is also very good Sleeving (Bitspower Sleeving is bit expensive, but still one of the smallest PET Sleeving I have found (1.5mm)).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> snip


That's the method Lutro0 uses, I prefer using mine or method Ice-Modz uses, It's allot cleaner. & easier to use.

The caps for Case-Labs Power/Rest are ugly, Way to large just to over some 2mm quick disconnect terminals.


----------



## AlexNiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> That is a long time ago, Things most likely have changed since then.


maybe it is so
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> MDPC-X is by far my favorite & easiest to use. .


Congratulations!  Remember this smiley?)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> The caps for Case-Labs Power/Rest are ugly, Way to large just to over some 2mm quick disconnect terminals.


The method does not matter.The main thing that was neat, safe and beautiful.. show your final result to compare.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> The caps for Case-Labs Power/Rest are ugly.Way to large just to over some 2mm quick disconnect terminals


Everybody ought to do his own thing


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> maybe it is so
> 
> Congratulations!  Remember this smiley?)
> 
> The method does not matter.The main thing that was neat, safe and beautiful.. show your final result to compare.
> Everybody ought to do his own thing


I haven't even started on my power switch.

It's similar to this styles. Goes goes from Quick disconnect to the motherboard with zero heatshrink(Yes, I got the Sleeving inside a dupont connector). Then small cap on every quick disconnect.



*Edit*

This was a test, As you can see I overburned/Melted part of the sleeving.


----------



## AlexNiko

Quote:


> show your final result to compare.


I talked about the double wire. interesting to see the result..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> This was a test, As you can see I overburned/Melted part of the sleeving.


Good work


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> Double Wire, my version )
> Silicone wire Turnigy 18AWG, carbon sleeve from DIY modding and two heat-shrink tubes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have to say, you did a much neater job of using that method than LutroO did in his video. It shows you definitely have soldering skills. However, solder joints in wiring should have a strong mechanical connection before applying the solder. all the solder should do is ensure a good electrical connection. It is better to tightly twist the wires together first. The joint should withstand pulling the wires apart before applying the solder. Only enough solder should be applied to just cover each strand with solder; you should still be able to see the individual strands through the solder.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> ...and the last photo today, the buttons for Case Labs case
> 
> 
> 
> caps.. again ))


Dang, you are clever! Where did you find those caps?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> I talked about the double wire. interesting to see the result..
> Good work


I did, Check the last page. Unless you mean fully sleeved.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> Double Wire, my version )
> Silicone wire Turnigy 18AWG, carbon sleeve from DIY modding and two heat-shrink tubes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and the last photo today, the buttons for Case Labs case
> 
> 
> 
> caps.. again ))


Nicely done, all around. That last image, is that some sort of Ariete dust boot you used as the cover? Almost looks like an older spark plug cap.


----------



## lowfat

IMO if doing a Y cable, you should strip like 15mm of each wire. Hold two wires together in one direction, one in the other. Cross the wires @ the half way mark and wrap them around each other. The tips of the wires should reach where the the insulation was stripped on the other cable. Only heatshrink where the insulation was removed. It should be pretty much the exact same diameter as the insulated wire. You can put the sleeving right to the Y w/o it looking bulky. Cut your sleeving for the Y at an angle so they match up flush. Glue/melt the sleeving together at the Y. Then heatshrink again. It shouldn't look bulky at all afterward.


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> I have to say, you did a much neater job of using that method than LutroO did in his video. It shows you definitely have soldering skills. However, solder joints in wiring should have a strong mechanical connection before applying the solder. all the solder should do is ensure a good electrical connection. It is better to tightly twist the wires together first. The joint should withstand pulling the wires apart before applying the solder. Only enough solder should be applied to just cover each strand with solder; you should still be able to see the individual strands through the solder.
> Dang, you are clever! Where did you find those caps?


I am probably the only one who is happy to say that all my much disapproved of solderless, shrink-free, knotted double wires are still going strong with no over/undershooting after years of use.

I am quite sure that no matter which technique you employ the key is to get the joint as close as possible to where the double crimp was in the original cable and to preserve any gauge difference between the sense and current wires.


----------



## iamjanco

^ I suspect that all things considered, it's really a matter of whether or not the end user is happy with what they've achieved.


----------



## AlexNiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Ariete dust boot you used as the cover? Almost looks like an older spark plug cap.


This is cap for AMP waterproof connector, use in cars
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> I am probably the only one who is happy to say that all my much disapproved of solderless, shrink-free, knotted double wires are still going strong with no over/undershooting after years of use.


Interesting idea and good realization!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Cut your sleeving for the Y at an angle so they match up flush. Glue/melt the sleeving together at the Y. Then heatshrink again. It shouldn't look bulky at all afterward.


yep ..i tried this method too.

This cable for PSU Corsair HX1000i, two wires at the same terminal.



But here just one dual wire (#13).


----------



## AlexNiko

some old pics:


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> IMO if doing a Y cable, you should strip like 15mm of each wire. Hold two wires together in one direction, one in the other. Cross the wires @ the half way mark and wrap them around each other. The tips of the wires should reach where the the insulation was stripped on the other cable. Only heatshrink where the insulation was removed. It should be pretty much the exact same diameter as the insulated wire. You can put the sleeving right to the Y w/o it looking bulky. Cut your sleeving for the Y at an angle so they match up flush. Glue/melt the sleeving together at the Y. Then heatshrink again. It shouldn't look bulky at all afterward.


15mm is way to much. You can do the same thing at 5mm. The old twisting method can create a larger OD if your not careful.

I assume by twisting you mean this:




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> This cable for PSU Corsair HX1000i, two wires at the same terminal.


I done double wires (Best is to create a V shape cut on the sleeving & point it inward to help reduce the OD). However if you want to use cable combs it makes it nearly impossible to use due to the extra wires at the motherboard side. The thicker OD wires are impossible to do unless you have machine crimper (Which is what CableMod, EVGA, etc...) uses to do the double crimp at have a very small OD.

Plus it can be a pain getting them inside the connector.

I'll stick with soldering for now. I'm not the best at it However the method I used works for me. I already tested my latest cables & they work flawlessly.

----

I did look into solderless heatshrink tubes, However the issue with them are they create a larger OD at the Y section. It might be hard to get sleeving over the tube. Plus I did notice some said to avoid them since they don't solder the wire correctly & solder were not being applied evenly.

----

For those wondering, This is the Ice-Modz Soldering method I did use originally. Until I started to use my own method. I pushed the strands into each other & soldered.



---

Btw, Don't let Performance-pcs do your sleeving(One of my devices were sleeved by PPCS, Thankfully I didn't pay for it). They can't even be bothered with doing it correctly, The sleeving is feathering at both sides, How hard is it to take a Hot knife or Light to burn the ends for a second.



Nearly done with my Molex Cables, I'm basically making a Molex Hub in cable form (I will then create extensions going from this to my devices). My Molex devices are all over the place, I couldn't create the normal type cables due to the locations of the devices. Plus for some strange reason my Motherboard requires a Molex connection. These were hard on the hands, I was using 16 AWG (2mm). Not sure if the 2.34mm version would stay in due to the larger OD.




This device came in handy:










Tool is designed for Sata (Molex Push Down). They work for Molex & JMT connectors.


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> some old pics:


When there aren't any lugs in the wire track you can do pretty much what you like, here's a couple of 38mm industrial monsters dolled up to look bootiful.



But when you have lugs to cope with I find it best to use heat shrink all the way. This is 4mm 2:1 shrunk just enough to get along the track without bunching up the wires, then you slide it along the wires and coax it under the lug, prodding through the gap from the other side to get it back into the track and gently pushing it up to the hub.



I like to use smallest sleeve possible for fan cables to make them easy to train, which is why I don't use 22awg wire. Since the manufacturers usually use 24awg I can just about get 4 wires through 3mm sleeve.


----------



## AlexNiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I done double wires (Best is to create a V shape cut on the sleeving & point it inward to help reduce the OD).


Aright, i has done just that.
Quote:


> However if you want to use cable combs it makes it nearly impossible to use due to the extra wires at the motherboard side.


I use cable combs of own production. I can make them from any material
In this case, i used a frame-type acrylic combs (test version)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I was using 16 AWG (2mm). Not sure if the 2.34mm version would stay in due to the larger OD.


You did a great job - it's really hard!

I used the selicone wire with OD=2.3мм
I removed the insulation on the 7-mm segment:



the wires are soldered to the contacts .. for reliability)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Tool is designed for Sata (Molex Push Down). .


cool


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> snip
> 
> I like to use smallest sleeve possible for fan cables to make them easy to train, which is why I don't use 22awg wire. Since the manufacturers usually use 24awg I can just about get 4 wires through 3mm sleeve.


All my fans use 22 AWG. I have to use the 6mm Sleeving since Corsair loves there ribbon style wiring.

Mod-One has started to carry some Molex branded terminals(Male & Female ATX so far). Hopefully they will start to carry Molex Branded connectors too.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 15mm is way to much. You can do the same thing at 5mm. The old twisting method can create a larger OD if your not careful.
> 
> I assume by twisting you mean this:


You really can't do the same thing w/ 5mm. That is giving you 2.5mm on each side to twist. That isn't near enough to get it low profile enough. Your example is twisted too tight and too short. The twists should go all the way to the other end of the wire.

A quick example I just threw together. That is 18mm cut from all 3 wires. Twisted the wires then soldered. Then heatshrinked. Then added the sleeving. Melted. Then heatshrinked.

http://hostthenpost.org


----------



## AlexNiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> All my fans use 22 AWG. I have to use the 6mm Sleeving since Corsair loves there ribbon style wiring.


I used a 4mm sleeve for this fan (Corsair ML series)


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You really can't do the same thing w/ 5mm. That is giving you 2.5mm on each side to twist. That isn't near enough to get it low profile enough. Your example is twisted too tight and too short. The twists should go all the way to the other end of the wire.
> 
> A quick example I just threw together. That is 18mm cut from all 3 wires. Twisted the wires then soldered. Then heatshrinked. Then added the sleeving. Melted. Then heatshrinked.
> 
> http://hostthenpost.org


I was just showing picture asking if this was what your talking about. If your going to use the twist method it should be longer then 5mm. I don't use the twist method(I don't like how it looks after it becomes soldered). 5mm is more then enough for my methods, Most don't use the twist method when soldering PSU cables.


----------



## AlexNiko

http://hostthenpost.org

nicely done


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I was just showing picture asking if this was what your talking about. If your going to use the twist method it should be longer then 5mm. I don't use the twist method(*I don't like how it looks after it becomes soldered*). 5mm is more then enough for my methods, Most don't use the twist method when soldering PSU cables.


How so? Its the exact same diameter and damn near just as smooth if done right.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> I used a 4mm sleeve for this fan (Corsair ML series)


When I say have to, I mean MDPC-X doesn't make anything smaller. Plus Small sleeving can feel bulky if you put to many wires inside the sleeve. I prefer my sleeving to be bit lose. I also want the flat look all the way through.




^ Not the finished Product. I also use different back sticker, instead of default one.


----------



## AlexNiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I also want the flat look all


your wire does not look flat... on the image 6mm sleeve?
and you can not use heat-shrink tube for this fan.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> A quick example I just threw together. That is 18mm cut from all 3 wires. Twisted the wires then soldered. Then heatshrinked. Then added the sleeving. Melted. Then heatshrinked.
> 
> http://hostthenpost.org


Lowfat, can you show how you twisted the wires together? Looks really good.


----------



## AlexNiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Lowfat, can you show how you twisted the wires together? Looks really good.


this method was beautifully presented here... the images disappeared, it's sad http://www.overclock.net/t/1175308/sleeving-the-beginners-guide


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> this method was beautifully presented here... the images disappeared, it's sad http://www.overclock.net/t/1175308/sleeving-the-beginners-guide


I agree, they were the perfect example well presented. I used to follow those religiously when doing mine. I did copy those images a few years ago just in case they disappeared but can't find them now. I'll see if any old backups still have them. I'll also pm Ontic to see if he still has them.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> your wire does not look flat... on the image 6mm sleeve?
> and you can not use heat-shrink tube for this fan.


It is, Some Photos are just at an angle which doesn't show all the details.

As you can see in the Photos can use HeatShrink. I did without any issues. Singularity computers also used Heatshrink when they sleeved there ML Pro's.


----------



## msd0

Yea, the pictures would be helpful. I understand the process and have done a ton of splices that are 100% functional, but don't look that great.


----------



## Big Elf

Damn, this is the only one I can find:


----------



## Big Elf

Oops, accidentally posted twice.


----------



## AlexNiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> As you can see in the Photos can use HeatShrink. I did without any issues. Singularity computers also used Heatshrink when they sleeved there ML Pro's.


I didn't mean that. Sorry for my bad English.
I wanted to say that It won't be pretty (imho), if you use heart-shrink tube. The heart shrink tube may be dispensed in our case. Just use plastic sticker.


----------



## AlexNiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Damn, this is the only one I can find:


I'll try to make quality photos, if nobody ever finds the originals.


----------



## Laine

Another way to do splits. MDPC-X Grand Bleu and Black, Viablue splitters.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> I didn't mean that. Sorry for my bad English.
> I wanted to say that It won't be pretty (imho), if you use heart-shrink tube. The heart shrink tube may be dispensed in our case. Just use plastic sticker.


If done right it will be fine, Specially if the fan is facing the other way. You need something holding the Sleeving down or it's going to constantly move.

I really don't mind heatshrink if it looks good.

Just don't use the glue versions unless it required, those heatshrink get messy & glue usually spills over into the sleeving.

As my one Language teacher said once, English Language is one of the hardest Languages to learn.


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laine*
> 
> Another way to do splits. MDPC-X Grand Bleu and Black, Viablue splitters.


Need more pics of that


----------



## Pheozero

Does anyone happen to have a guide on how to make a custom length fan harness? I want to shorten my regular fan cables and try to make a harness for the my case. Or would it be easier to make PWM extension cables to a power distribution block and plug it into my Aquaero that way?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Does anyone happen to have a guide on how to make a custom length fan harness? I want to shorten my regular fan cables and try to make a harness for the my case. Or would it be easier to make PWM extension cables to a power distribution block and plug it into my Aquaero that way?


Fan extensions would be allot easier, Without full details on what you have planned I can't really comment on fan harness part.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Does anyone happen to have a guide on how to make a custom length fan harness? I want to shorten my regular fan cables and try to make a harness for the my case. Or would it be easier to make PWM extension cables to a power distribution block and plug it into my Aquaero that way?


When I do my fans I cut the fan cables as short as possible. So the connector is right off the edge. Then I just create a daisy chained sleeved cable that runs to the PWM header on the board/fan controller/whatever.

I can't find the photos right now. I'll take another look through my library later on when I have more time.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Fan extensions would be allot easier, Without full details on what you have planned I can't really comment on fan harness part.


It's nothing that complex. I have a Case Labs S5 with a 360 and a 240 so five fans total. Before I had the fan cables twist tied but I'd like it to be a lot more neater.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> When I do my fans I cut the fan cables as short as possible. So the connector is right off the edge. Then I just create a daisy chained sleeved cable that runs to the PWM header on the board/fan controller/whatever.
> 
> I can't find the photos right now. I'll take another look through my library later on when I have more time.


Honestly I'm pretty sure I either got the idea from you or CPAChris a looong time ago. It's a lot smaller case than what I'm used to building in so I'd like it to not be a giant jumble of cables.


----------



## Revan654

I been waiting months for MainFrameCustoms to get Sockets in to do my own power supply cord. However they still haven't gotten any in stock, Even though they told me last month they would be getting more in, In two weeks (That date has already passed).

I went ahead and had Singularity Computer do the cable for me & they also tested it for me as well (Cord will work on High End PSU (1600w). They also gave me a 10 dollar discount on my order (Not sure why, Maybe because I order so much stuff from them?). Other then AliExpress there only other one who sells JMT connectors & terminals at a very good price.

It's sleeved with MDPC-X Black too.









For those ordering Molex Connectors. Molex No longer makes the 24 pin Black version for the 5557 series, You can only obtain the 24 pin version from the 46992 series. The 46992 version is not truly black, it's a very lite black.



Molex 46992 vs JMT



Molex 46992 vs Molex 5557 series



Molex 5557 vs JMT


----------



## lowfat

You can find the male and female power connectors for about $15-$20 a pair on Ebay/Aliexpress. Sometimes listed as audio power / IEC connector / plug.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-High-end-audio-power-plug-TAIWAN-P029-C029-Audio-power-plug-and-Power-supply/32389279213.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.54.kk7dQ0&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10065_10151_10130_10068_5400011_10139_10307_10137_10060_10155_10154_5370011_10056_10055_10054_10059_100031_10099_10103_10102_5410017_5430017_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10178_10110_10111_10112_5390011_10113_10114_5380017_10312_10313_10314_10315_10078_10079_5420017_10073,searchweb201603_1,ppcSwitch_7&btsid=0ebcf7fb-e194-46be-9780-fc2f9564cdea&algo_expid=84bd9c9c-220f-49ee-a093-3231561130c9-7&algo_pvid=84bd9c9c-220f-49ee-a093-3231561130c9&transAbTest=ae803_3


----------



## AlexNiko

I used power connectors from Sonarquest.. good value for money.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You can find the male and female power connectors for about $15-$20 a pair on Ebay/Aliexpress. Sometimes listed as audio power / IEC connector / plug.
> 
> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-High-end-audio-power-plug-TAIWAN-P029-C029-Audio-power-plug-and-Power-supply/32389279213.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.54.kk7dQ0&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10065_10151_10130_10068_5400011_10139_10307_10137_10060_10155_10154_5370011_10056_10055_10054_10059_100031_10099_10103_10102_5410017_5430017_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10178_10110_10111_10112_5390011_10113_10114_5380017_10312_10313_10314_10315_10078_10079_5420017_10073,searchweb201603_1,ppcSwitch_7&btsid=0ebcf7fb-e194-46be-9780-fc2f9564cdea&algo_expid=84bd9c9c-220f-49ee-a093-3231561130c9-7&algo_pvid=84bd9c9c-220f-49ee-a093-3231561130c9&transAbTest=ae803_3


Already bought the cable & they have fully tested for me. Plus this would take about a month for it to arrive without paying 30 dollars for other shipping options.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> I used power connectors from Sonarquest.. good value for money.


Maybe next time. Knowing me I would avoid the basic edition & go directly to the carbon Gold plated edition which starts at 80 dollars.

Already got the cable, Plus they fully tested it for me so I know no issues will happen.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> I used power connectors from Sonarquest.. good value for money.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm looking for something like those, but with 90 degree angle. But haven't found anything that i really like. Jenving Supra Lorad has some but it's really expensive here in Norway


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> I'm looking for something like those, but with 90 degree angle. But haven't found anything that i really like. Jenving Supra Lorad has some but it's really expensive here in Norway


They do sell attachments. One side plugs into the power cord & other side gets plugged into power supply.


----------



## AlexNiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> I'm looking for something like those, but with 90 degree angle. But haven't found anything that i really like. Jenving Supra Lorad has some but it's really expensive here in Norway


I know that the Furutech (Japan) produces similar connectors... but not cheap.
New FI-12L High End Performance Angled Connector Series

You could pick them on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Furutech-ADL-angle-adjustable-L-type-inlet-plug-non-plating-FI12L-CU-/142471672871?hash=item212bf93427:g:jZoAAOSwn5RZi-2d
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> ...Plus they fully tested it for me so I know no issues will happen.


I knew what I was doing, and my cable works well for two years.


----------



## KCDC

Anyone familiar with Wattgate? I'm looking to do my power as well, however my connector is a C19/C20 (AX1500i). Seems like this brand is pricey, but not Furutech pricey:

https://www.parts-express.com/wattgate-350i-ag-hc-blue-high-current-silver-plated-iec-power-connector-20a--110-429

https://www.parts-express.com/wattgate-350i-au-hc-black-high-current-gold-plated-audio-grade-iec-connector--110-448

I checked SonarQuest's site, didn't appear to have any C19 style plugs.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> I know that the Furutech (Japan) produces similar connectors... but not cheap.
> New FI-12L High End Performance Angled Connector Series
> 
> You could pick them on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Furutech-ADL-angle-adjustable-L-type-inlet-plug-non-plating-FI12L-CU-/142471672871?hash=item212bf93427:g:jZoAAOSwn5RZi-2d
> 
> Looks nice. As You said they are really expensive tho...


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> They do sell attachments. One side plugs into the power cord & other side gets plugged into power supply.


Yes i know, but it's still expensive. The good thing is that i already got the cable.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Yes i know, but it's still expensive. The good thing is that i already got the cable.


Not sure you fully understand what I'm talking about. They were only 6 dollars. The full socket are a bit more money.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> I knew what I was doing, and my cable works well for two years.


If you say so, I'm just telling you what they did for me.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Not sure you fully understand what I'm talking about. They were only 6 dollars. The full socket are a bit more money.


No I don't understand what you are talking about ?







Attachments you say? from where


----------



## Laine

After the fan harness discussion a few pages back and no space for routing fan wires and bulky connectors in my build, I had to try a minimalistic approach. Still playing around with the idea.



It's regular I/O headers from a motherboard, pins same dimensions as standard fan connectors.


----------



## AlexNiko

I have used this technique to get a neat and reliable connection of two wires.
This addition to the method described by *Ontic* (unfortunately there are no pics, but there's a detailed description.)

*Step 1:* Remove a 10mm section of insulation from the full length wire:



*Step 2:* Then place the end of the second wire in the middle of the full length wire:




*Step 3:* Now just twist the wires together. The filaments of each wire should be twisted together, to behave more like a single entity.
I used a very flexible stranded wires, they are easy to twist:



*Step 4:* Soldering of wires...Solder's primary function is conducting electricity, not gluing things together (though it certainly does help with that too). I used a solder paste (Goot BS-10), that removes oxides and improves wettability.



*Step 5:* Close the twisted wires with heat-shrink. I've used 3mm heat-shrink tube.



*Step 6:* Now prepare the sleeve. Cut your sleeving for the Y at an angle (approximately 45°). Don't need to melt the edge of the sleeve, on the contrary, we must unravel the threads.
Use the tweezers for convenience.





*Step 7:* Then fix the knot with a shrink tube. Using heat-shrink to melt the sleeving underneath (i used a lighter).


*Step 8:* Remove the heat-shrink from the cable sleeving with a scalpel. If you did everything right, you should get a similar result.



*Step 9:* This is the final step. Fasten the sleeve down with heat-shrink again.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> No I don't understand what you are talking about ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attachments you say? from where


It's basically a plug for the cord. I recall seeing one on Moddiy, Can't seem to find it now.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> I have used this technique to get a neat and reliable connection of two wires.
> This addition to the method described by *Ontic* (unfortunately there are no pics, but there's a detailed description.)
> 
> *Step 1:* Remove a 10mm section of insulation from the full length wire:
> 
> 
> 
> *Step 2:* Then place the end of the second wire in the middle of the full length wire:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Step 3:* Now just twist the wires together. The filaments of each wire should be twisted together, to behave more like a single entity.
> I used a very flexible stranded wires, they are easy to twist:
> 
> 
> 
> *Step 4:* Soldering of wires...Solder's primary function is conducting electricity, not gluing things together (though it certainly does help with that too). I used a solder paste (Goot BS-10), that removes oxides and improves wettability.
> 
> 
> 
> *Step 5:* Close the twisted wires with heat-shrink. I've used 3mm heat-shrink tube.
> 
> 
> 
> *Step 6:* Now prepare the sleeve. Cut your sleeving for the Y at an angle (approximately 45°). Don't need to melt the edge of the sleeve, on the contrary, we must unravel the threads.
> Use the tweezers for convenience.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Step 7:* Then fix the knot with a shrink tube. Using heat-shrink to melt the sleeving underneath (i used a lighter).
> 
> 
> *Step 8:* Remove the heat-shrink from the cable sleeving with a scalpel. If you did everything right, you should get a similar result.
> 
> 
> 
> *Step 9:* This is the final step. Fasten the sleeve down with heat-shrink again.


Excellent job! This post should be stickied!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> snip


I used that method a long time ago, I just didn't care for it. I like to double crimp it & then solder it. it gives you access to two methods of connectivity plus a fail safe. Also only need to do 5mm cut instead of 10. Which creates a small area for to heatshrink.

Plus this method tends to melt the PVC sleeving a bit more(For those who actually care about that).

Each has there own when it comes to double wires.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> No I don't understand what you are talking about ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attachments you say? from where


It's basically a plug for the cord. I recall seeing one on Moddiy. Ebay & Amazon also have them.


----------



## msd0

Nice job on the splice. Pretty similar to the way a lot of us do them, but very well executed and neat.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> It's basically a plug for the cord. I recall seeing one on Moddiy. Ebay & Amazon also have them.


The idea is good but I'm not into using angles like that because of the extra connection you get,


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Excellent job! This post should be stickied!


Agreed. Good soldering technique, great final outcome!


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> I have used this technique to get a neat and reliable connection of two wires.
> This addition to the method described by *Ontic* (unfortunately there are no pics, but there's a detailed description.)
> 
> _...Lots of excellent guidance with images..._


Perfect, a worthy replacement to 'Ontic's' guide.

Have some rep.


----------



## joshxp

Hello, i'm new to sleeve cable.
so, i have few question, how about sleeve with new cable ? i mean we dont need to buy atx cable extention or sleeve the cables non-modular psu or sleeve modular psu cables.
how to choose good wires, and anything else. any guide ??


----------



## AlexNiko

Sleeving a Aqua Computer D5:


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshxp*
> 
> Hello, i'm new to sleeve cable.
> so, i have few question, how about sleeve with new cable ? i mean we dont need to buy atx cable extention or sleeve the cables non-modular psu or sleeve modular psu cables.
> how to choose good wires, and anything else. any guide ??


Most wire that most Sleeving shops sell will work without any issues (As long as it's Hook Up wire). I favor 16 AWG (2.4 version), However the normal 2mm will work just as good. Mod-One sells the best in my opinion (There former Case-Labs Employee's after all). I personal don't care for version mainframecustom sells due to the fact the PVC is thicker.

There also the higher grade wiring sold by Belden & AlphaWire but it's very expensive.

There plenty of help topics in sleeving forum, Be warned it favors mainframecustom & tries to paint other products in bad light like MDPC-X, Due to the fact person who wrote it works at mainframecustom.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> Sleeving a Aqua Computer D5:


That is actually very good(Minus the choice of Sleeving







), How did you take the top/bottom off? I haven't had a chance to sleeve my pump yet since I'm still working on building my loop. I will need to cut the molex cable down a bit, Since it super long).


----------



## AlexNiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> (Minus the choice of Sleeving
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


ha-ha! I'm already halfway to MDPC-X








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> How did you take the top/bottom off?


just open it using a thin flat object (flat screwdriver e.g.).. it's easy


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Most wire that most Sleeving shops sell will work without any issues (As long as it's Hook Up wire). I favor 16 AWG (2.4 version), However the normal 2mm will work just as good. Mod-One sells the best in my opinion (There former Case-Labs Employee's after all). I personal don't care for version mainframecustom sells due to the fact the PVC is thicker.
> 
> There also the higher grade wiring sold by Belden & AlphaWire but it's very expensive.
> 
> There plenty of help topics in sleeving forum, Be warned it favors mainframecustom & tries to paint other products in bad light like MDPC-X, Due to the fact person who wrote it works at mainframecustom.


UL1007 16AWG hook-up wire has an 2.4mm OD. I usually get it from McMaster-Carr for 100'/$23.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#8054t16/=18zxj71


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> UL1007 16AWG hook-up wire has an 2.4mm OD. I usually get it from McMaster-Carr for 100'/$23.
> https://www.mcmaster.com/#8054t16/=18zxj71


Just about the same price from Mod-One. Have no idea if that site wiring is hard or soft, writing on the wire & how much shipping is.


----------



## Revan654

Has anyone crimp anything from the pico series from Molex? It has a 1mm pitch, I can't seem to get it inside a crimper & then get a wire inside the terminals. These terminal are tiny.

I'm thinking of just buying the cables instead of keep trying to crimp these.


----------



## AlexNiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Has anyone crimp anything from the pico series from Molex? It has a 1mm pitch, I can't seem to get it inside a crimper & then get a wire inside the terminals. These terminal are tiny.
> 
> I'm thinking of just buying the cables instead of keep trying to crimp these.


These connectors for Aqua Computer Vision?
This is a guide, could probably help you:



The author got it done using the tool Engineer PA-09... but it's hard.
I used a ready-made wires.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> These connectors for Aqua Computer Vision?


Thanks, I'll take a look later today.

Yes & no. the first pico set I was going to try to use with my Motherboard LED connectors (Since a few had to be disconnected to use the monoblock).

The second set would be for the vision.



on a side note, EK's does a horrible job a soldering there LED's. I had to re-solder then entire board due to fact how easily the wires kept disconnecting from the soldering point. Which created allot more work for me, since I also had to re-do all the wiring too. I did upgrade the wiring to 22 AWG from 28 or 30 AWG.

btw, AlphaWire Eco wiring is amazing when it comes to soldering. Plus it uses mPPE instead of PVC (No melting the Insulation material at all).


----------



## Revan654

Molex also makes Pre-Made Pico cables, I might grab a few & just cut the ends off at the one side.

Link: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=15134-0403virtualkey53850000virtualkey538-15134-0403

& also grab this & solder it to my LED board & see if that will work to light up the LED's.

Just wish I could figure out a way to test it without turning on my motherboard.

I'm not an engineer or anything I have no idea if that will work or not.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> Sleeving a Aqua Computer D5:


I opened mine up and it's a bit different then yours(Unless you replaced the one wire). Mine uses a tape wire, where you have a solider yellow wire. I assume you expanded the existing hole to make it bigger and added some type of U-Channel guard on it afterwards.

The tape wire in mine is to fragile to try to attempt what you did, One bad move & the entire pump will be destroyed. I Think I'll just use some of those adhesive heatshrink on mine. After the hole LED mess with my mono block. I don't want to repeat history.



Also why is the wire directly feeding to a Mini-Fit Jr. Connector?




the new MDPC-X crimper does so much better job at everything.


----------



## AlexNiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I opened mine up and it's a bit different then yours(Unless you replaced the one wire). Mine uses a tape wire, where you have a solider yellow wire.


I have two identical pumps, but they don't have a tape wires inside. Perhaps you have a new version of this pump (the manufacturer can make changes)


Quote:


> I assume you expanded the existing hole to make it bigger and added some type of U-Channel guard on it afterwards.


Yes, I did, actually.
Quote:


> Also why is the wire directly feeding to a Mini-Fit Jr. Connector?


The pump is connected directly to PSU


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> I have two identical pumps, but they don't have a tape wires inside. Perhaps you have a new version of this pump (the manufacturer can make changes)


Have no idea, it seems allot of the wiring you have have been removed in favor of only three wires.


----------



## AlexNiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Have no idea, it seems allot of the wiring you have have been removed in favor of only three wires.


A few pics from a different POV:




the two thick wires (16AWG) this power

GND(black)
+12V(red)

*4* other wires for pump control... I didn't change anything.


----------



## iamjanco

Just confirmed my pumps are configured with the flex cable as well. Not really a big deal from where I stand though.

Edited: the main circuit cards in my pumps are labeled D5v1.51. Anyone else have a different version?


----------



## Revan654

Socket is finally back in-Stock at MFC, Which it's been out of stock since 2016.

Link: https://mainframecustom.com/shop/cable-sleeving/power-supply-sockets-clear/

Black will be arriving soon as well. For those who don't want to import it from China or want to make there own.


----------



## Revan654

Question:

Anyone who has used MDPC-X Heatshrink in the past. Is it me or does there heatshrink tend not to hold up well with heat? For some reason heatshrink keeps splitting opening, It's only heatshrink I have left until my order from MFC arrives.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Question:
> 
> Anyone who has used MDPC-X Heatshrink in the past. Is it me or does there heatshrink tend not to hold up well with heat? For some reason heatshrink keeps splitting opening, It's only heatshrink I have left until my order from MFC arrives.


Are you using a heat gun or torch?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Are you using a heat gun or torch?


Lighter & flameless torch.

MDPC-X is sending me a bunch of free Heatshrink with my next order. MDPC-X always sends some kind of free gifts with my orders.

I already gone through 300ft of sleeving & I'm still not done.


----------



## Craigk19

what are you making?


----------



## bolo1800

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Lighter & flameless torch.
> 
> MDPC-X is sending me a bunch of free Heatshrink with my next order. MDPC-X always sends some kind of free gifts with my orders.
> 
> I already gone through 300ft of sleeving & I'm still not done.


Nils is Da man.

300ft is alot for one build...what ARE you making?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bolo1800*
> 
> Nils is Da man.
> 
> 300ft is alot for one build...what ARE you making?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> what are you making?


Everything I'm creating is shown in my build log. Currently creating picoBlade cables (Which are a massive PIA, due to the size of the terminals).


----------



## lowfat

If anyone has access to a 3d printer, I've designed a better set of mountable cable combs. Not near as bulky and ugly as the ones I made last year.
http://hostthenpost.org

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2510848/


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If anyone has access to a 3d printer, I've designed a better set of mountable cable combs. Not near as bulky and ugly as the ones I made last year.
> http://hostthenpost.org
> 
> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2510848/


those look great, if only I had a 3d printer. I think these could be great to route cables on the back of the motherboard tray since they have screw holes and all that, though maybe some wider or taller ones would help with that... just got an idea for making some for my build out acrylic now, so tanks


----------



## msd0

Lowfat, what 3D printer are you using? Do you have any recommendations? I'm thinking about getting one at some point.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Lowfat, what 3D printer are you using? Do you have any recommendations? I'm thinking about getting one at some point.


A DIY reprap based off a Prusa i3 currently. http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3

Have two more printers currently under construction. A Wilson 2 (http://reprap.org/wiki/Wilson_II), which is about 90% complete. And I've ordered all the parts for a dual extruder Hypercube Evolution (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2254103).

I'm not sure what kind of budget you have but I would highly suggest an original Prusa i3 MK2S. Without a doubt the best printer under $1000.
http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/59-original-prusa-i3-mk2-kit.html


----------



## msd0

Thanks, for the info. What material do you typically run?


----------



## Revan654

No soldering has been applied yet.

Just a small look at my other Sata cables without any Sleeving. Still no sleeving to use yet, Waiting on USPS. They take forever to get from customs to my house.

I'm currently using Solid Gold Molex terminals, There designed for 18 AWG, I did mange to crimp 16 AWG wiring (2.4 OD) to the terminals.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Thanks, for the info. What material do you typically run?


I print mostly ABS and occasionally PETG (if I don't need it to look super clean). But I'd suggest PLA or PETG for printers that aren't enclosed. ABS requires ambient temperature above 40C or so to prevent it from warping.


----------



## Revan654

Now available through MDPC-X. They also sell white version as well.


----------



## nyk20z3

Does any one know of a quality sleever who does extensions using MDPC-X?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Does any one know of a quality sleever who does extensions using MDPC-X?


Mod-One in the US. There a few over sea as well but there the same price.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Does any one know of a quality sleever who does extensions using MDPC-X?


Most of the stores that sell MDPC-X sleeving also do custom extensions https://www.cable-sleeving.com/mdpc-x-stores-around-the-world


----------



## Jobotoo

What is the difference between MDPC-X sleeving and Paracord? And why would you go with one, over the other?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*
> 
> What is the difference between MDPC-X sleeving and Paracord? And why would you go with one, over the other?


MDPC-X sleeving is similar to the regular plastic sleeving that you have no doubt seen used for computer cables for a long time, it's undoubtedly one of or rather THE best one out there but it's still the regular plastic sleeving that you are used to. Paracord on the other hand is essentially the nylon outer sleeve of... well paracord, it's the stuff that climbers will use and the like. When comparing the two against each other you will notice that paracord has a tighter weave and is significantly softer than MDPC-X, it does however have it's drawbacks. In my opinion it's more difficult to sleeve, and it is far more likely to fray when moved over sharp edges like the metal parts of a case. MDPC-X on the other hand is made of PET-X, which behaves differently, it's more expandable than paracord, it's more resistant to fraying (but when it first does it will tear compared to paracord) and it's easier to sleeve with in my opinion.

The choice is yours, but some things that you should know is that paracord can be found more or less anywhere in the world so don't fret about specific brands just find a colour that you like and go for it. MDPC-X however is tailored made for sleeving computer parts, there is a plethora of available colours, but again it's just one of many brands (it is however the best one in my opinion).

Hope that clears things up, if you want more specific info like sizing and so on then I think there is some on the OP and if not I'¨m sure that someone else will take the time to fill you in where I simply do not posses the knowledge.

Quote:
Now on to more unrelated stuff (don't like to double post so I'll put it in here):

I'm looking at re-sleeving my DDC as my first attempt (years ago) doesn't quite reach the standards that I have these days. Any pointers in how I can deal with the part that goes under the casing? I already have the pump picked apart so warranty is not an issue, but I'm curious if the casing around the pump leaves enough room to put a heatshrink (or even better some MDPC-X) all the way down at the solder joints.


----------



## Jobotoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> MDPC-X sleeving is similar to the regular plastic sleeving that you have no doubt seen used for computer cables for a long time, it's undoubtedly one of or rather THE best one out there but it's still the regular plastic sleeving that you are used to. Paracord on the other hand is essentially the nylon outer sleeve of... well paracord, it's the stuff that climbers will use and the like. When comparing the two against each other you will notice that paracord has a tighter weave and is significantly softer than MDPC-X, it does however have it's drawbacks. In my opinion it's more difficult to sleeve, and it is far more likely to fray when moved over sharp edges like the metal parts of a case. MDPC-X on the other hand is made of PET-X, which behaves differently, it's more expandable than paracord, it's more resistant to fraying (but when it first does it will tear compared to paracord) and it's easier to sleeve with in my opinion.
> 
> The choice is yours, but some things that you should know is that paracord can be found more or less anywhere in the world so don't fret about specific brands just find a colour that you like and go for it. MDPC-X however is tailored made for sleeving computer parts, there is a plethora of available colours, but again it's just one of many brands (it is however the best one in my opinion).
> 
> Hope that clears things up, if you want more specific info like sizing and so on then I think there is some on the OP and if not I'¨m sure that someone else will take the time to fill you in where I simply do not posses the knowledge.


Fantastic explanation, I REALLY appreciate it! +REP


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to more unrelated stuff (don't like to double post so I'll put it in here):
> 
> I'm looking at re-sleeving my DDC as my first attempt (years ago) doesn't quite reach the standards that I have these days. Any pointers in how I can deal with the part that goes under the casing? I already have the pump picked apart so warranty is not an issue, but I'm curious if the casing around the pump leaves enough room to put a heatshrink (or even better some MDPC-X) all the way down at the solder joints.
> 
> 
> 
> Use superglue for the sleeve inside the casing. Disadvantage is that's it pretty much permanent unless you solder on new wires if you change the colour scheme.
Click to expand...


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Use superglue for the sleeve inside the casing. Disadvantage is that's it pretty much permanent unless you solder on new wires if you change the colour scheme.


That might work, and I might as well just solder on new wires if I end up changing the sleeving at one point. I'm contemplating on just doing a super short cable run from the pump and on to a PWM fan connector and then just make an extension cable for connecting it to stuff. Honestly the way I did it is just making me nuts as the heat-shrink placed close to the casing leaves a "gap" for me to see the yellow, blue, green and black wires sticking out of it. I need to decide on a colour scheme for it first though as I just got a MDPCx sample pack from mod-one to check on the colours (I'm ordering the full lengths directly from MDPC-X as Germany is way closer).

PS: is there actually space inside the casing to accommodate the sleeving or would I need to use heatshrink for that part?


----------



## Paopawdecarabao

Is techflex cable sleeve 1/8" same as mdcp-x sleeves? I tried paracord and got frustrated when I tried to sleeve my 3pin GT Fans. I gave up and lost hope for sleeving. lol


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paopawdecarabao*
> 
> Is techflex cable sleeve 1/8" same as mdcp-x sleeves? I tried paracord and got frustrated when I tried to sleeve my 3pin GT Fans. I gave up and lost hope for sleeving. lol


Not even close. techflex is very rigid and budget quality sleeving. MDPC-X is some best sleeving you can buy.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paopawdecarabao*
> 
> Is techflex cable sleeve 1/8" same as mdcp-x sleeves? I tried paracord and got frustrated when I tried to sleeve my 3pin GT Fans. I gave up and lost hope for sleeving. lol


Different brand, and different quality. The concept and materials are fairly similar however, and as long as you are fine with having a less tight weave then there shouldn't be any real issues with using it.

This is MDPC-X: https://www.cable-sleeving.com/cable-sleeving

Edit: got sniped


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Use superglue for the sleeve inside the casing. Disadvantage is that's it pretty much permanent unless you solder on new wires if you change the colour scheme.


These is adhesive heatshrink, However I would suggest using crafting glue. Is will hold the bond but not as strong as superglue & it can be removed if needed.


----------



## Paopawdecarabao

will try both. What size should I get for the 3pin fans? Medium?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paopawdecarabao*
> 
> will try both. What size should I get for the 3pin fans? Medium?


you can get allot of wires inside small sleeving. I have 3-pin, PWM & USB (5-pin) inside small sleeving.


----------



## Paopawdecarabao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> you can get allot of wires inside small sleeving. I have 3-pin, PWM & USB (5-pin) inside small sleeving.


Got my techflex sleeves and its so much easier than paracord damn.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> ...is there actually space inside the casing to accommodate the sleeving or would I need to use heatshrink for that part?


I can't easily get to my pumps as they're in a pedestal under my Case Labs TH10 but working from memory (it was 6 years ago) there's very little space inside for the sleeve, probably less than 5mm as the wire enters the body and then make a sharp right angle to the solder points.

I used heatshrink as well as superglue and had to to carve out a bit of the casing which would probably also have been needed with just the sleeve. This was with Swiftech 35X pumps so the layout may be slightly different on other DDCs. The casing has to hold the sleeve pretty tight so you can stretch the sleeve properly before fixing in place without ripping the wires out completely.

I used mod/smart narrow diameter sleeve (3mm?) rather than MDPC-X and used a permanent marker to 'colour' the wires black. These days I would solder on new black wires rather than use a marker pen.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I can't easily get to my pumps as they're in a pedestal under my Case Labs TH10 but working from memory (it was 6 years ago) there's very little space inside for the sleeve, probably less than 5mm as the wire enters the body and then make a sharp right angle to the solder points.
> 
> I used heatshrink as well as superglue and had to to carve out a bit of the casing which would probably also have been needed with just the sleeve. This was with Swiftech 35X pumps so the layout may be slightly different on other DDCs. The casing has to hold the sleeve pretty tight so you can stretch the sleeve properly before fixing in place without ripping the wires out completely.
> 
> I used mod/smart narrow diameter sleeve (3mm?) rather than MDPC-X and used a permanent marker to 'colour' the wires black. These days I would solder on new black wires rather than use a marker pen.


I might just step up and solder the wires, but I'd much rather just do a "modular" system where I mount a female fan connector close to the casing and just sleeve the extension cable instead. My ddc is also a 35x, but I replaced the casing with the heat-sink from EK so I can always grind away at the aluminium, but I'm unsure if it's necessary yet. Also I did notice that sharp turn that they take, which is what made me question how I would make a sleeving job look good to start with.


----------



## Revan654

I was wondering if anyone has ever seen a cable comb for 10 wires(Double row 5 & 5)? It just seem strange, there one for every count expect 10.


----------



## Revan654

Mod-One has now started to carry 18AWG with a 2.3 OD. Those who want to use 18AWG for there Sata or rest of the cables can now have a larger OD. That OD should work well with Push Down Connectors.


----------



## Deedaz

Has anyone ordered from mainframe lately? I put in a small order almost 2 weeks ago and emailed about it 2 days ago and still haven't heard anything.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Has anyone ordered from mainframe lately? I put in a small order almost 2 weeks ago and emailed about it 2 days ago and still haven't heard anything.


He wrote a comment on Facebook yesterday about slowdowns on orders:
Quote:


> ear MAINFrame Customers,
> Firstly, we would like thank everyone so much for your support. We have added so many new items this year with many more soon and we could not have done it without you.
> This past week I have been moving into a new place closer to the shop, so this has effected order processing times. I want you to be updated to the fullest, and just wanted everyone to be aware that nothing has happened to your order and that it is being processed as normal with some delay.
> I want to thank everyone so much again for your patience. We will be doing a few giveaways for the delays here shortly.
> Take care,
> David Miller


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Has anyone ordered from mainframe lately? I put in a small order almost 2 weeks ago and emailed about it 2 days ago and still haven't heard anything.
> 
> 
> 
> He wrote a comment on Facebook yesterday about slowdowns on orders:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ear MAINFrame Customers,
> Firstly, we would like thank everyone so much for your support. We have added so many new items this year with many more soon and we could not have done it without you.
> This past week I have been moving into a new place closer to the shop, so this has effected order processing times. I want you to be updated to the fullest, and just wanted everyone to be aware that nothing has happened to your order and that it is being processed as normal with some delay.
> I want to thank everyone so much again for your patience. We will be doing a few giveaways for the delays here shortly.
> Take care,
> David Miller
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Thanks! It was starting to feel like frozen all over again...


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Has anyone ordered from mainframe lately? I put in a small order almost 2 weeks ago and emailed about it 2 days ago and still haven't heard anything.


Yes, Ordered some things about a week ago. It was shipped 24 hours later. MFC has always been slow. Unless they sell something that can't be gotten from Mod-One I don't use them.


----------



## bolo1800

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Has anyone ordered from mainframe lately? I put in a small order almost 2 weeks ago and emailed about it 2 days ago and still haven't heard anything.


I placed an order a week ago. Still waiting for it to be shipped.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> He wrote a comment on Facebook yesterday about slowdowns on orders:


Good to know, thanks.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

The times I used MainFrame in the past, their service was excellent.


----------



## lowfat

Anyone ever buy 'Engineer' crimpers? Ended up ordering a set from Japan as I've heard they are some of the best when it comes to small JST crimps.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Anyone ever buy 'Engineer' crimpers? Ended up ordering a set from Japan as I've heard they are some of the best when it comes to small JST crimps.


I use PA-09 for all my small terminals from Pico to Mil. Since the CTX3 can't crimp them. There a great tiny crimper that does all small terminals with great results.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> The times I used MainFrame in the past, their service was excellent.


There just extremely slow at getting everything out the door now. Even basic orders that's just heatshrink orders takes awhile for them to ship. I'm not just talking recently, It's been like this for awhile.

Mod-One is just better at getting everything out the door. You order before 11am from them & it will ship the same day (Minus the custom cables of course).

Singularity Computers
Mod-One
Ensourced
MDPC-X WebStore
Mouser (For all your Molex parts)
Moddiy (Due to some more unique parts they carry that no one else has)
MNPCTech (For there custom made CableCombs, Still only store that does CarbonFiber)

are the only Sleeving stores I use due to there great service, Speed & quality.

With that Said MFC still has the best heatshrink for Heatshrinkless creation. It allows much higher Temperatures. MDPC-X has the best looking heatshrink. MFC has a weird effect to it once it's heated.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I use PA-09 for all my small terminals from Pico to Mil. Since the CTX3 can't crimp them. There a great tiny crimper that does all small terminals with great results.


Awesome The PA-09's are what I ordered.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Anyone ever buy 'Engineer' crimpers? Ended up ordering a set from Japan as I've heard they are some of the best when it comes to small JST crimps.


I have the PA-21 and it's great for small terminals where you need to go by feel. The narrow jaws give good visibility compared to a ratchet crimper.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> The times I used MainFrame in the past, their service was excellent.


Same here, although I'm only an hour away from them so shipping's fast.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> I have the PA-21 and it's great for small terminals where you need to go by feel. The narrow jaws give good visibility compared to a ratchet crimper.


PA-21 is really designed for larger terminals. Since it only goes down to 1.6. PA-09 goes all the way down to 1. Which is needed for the smaller terminals like the mil & pico.

Smaller terminals a racket crimper would just crush the terminal.

The PAD-01 / PAD-11 is also another good crimper made by Engineer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Same here, although I'm only an hour away from them so shipping's fast.


Problem is it takes forever for them to get the item out the door, Specially in the past few months. They also always had issue with stock. Hopefully with the move they can speed things up & have more room for stock.

Thankfully MDPC-X is amazing. They gave me enough heatshrink to create about dozens full set cables for free(Over 20 feet). I'm covered for heatshrink for a very long time.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> PA-21 is really designed for larger terminals. Since it only goes down to 1.6. PA-09 goes all the way down to 1. Which is needed for the smaller terminals like the mil & pico.
> 
> Smaller terminals a racket crimper would just crush the terminal.
> 
> The PAD-01 / PAD-11 is also another good crimper made by Engineer.


I originally bought it for mini-fit jr terminals, but wasn't happy with the results. I thought you had problems with the PAD-01/PAD-11 crimper?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> I originally bought it for mini-fit jr terminals, but wasn't happy with the results. I thought you had problems with the PAD-01/PAD-11 crimper?


PAD does have some issues with the long wing Molex 16 AWG terminals (Since it likes to bend them). Not 100% sure that terminal is officially supported with PAD. It's also been awhile since I tested it with new wiring I have. It works perfectly with all the OEM brands.


----------



## Revan654

I finally got 1 to 1.5mm terminals crimped perfectly. I also was able to use 24 AWG wiring to crimp the terminals. These terminals are designed for 26 & up.



Also started work on my USB 3.0 extension cables I might use (Not 100% sure yet).



----

My newish method for Double wire. Which requires zero soldering what so ever. Even MDPC-X was impressed by this.


----------



## msd0

The double wire crimp looks nice and compact. How strong is it? If you bend the wires, tug on it, etc. does it stay together?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> The double wire crimp looks nice and compact. How strong is it? If you bend the wires, tug on it, etc. does it stay together?


Just as strong as soldering it. I put my entire strength into it & it didn't budge in the slightest. Plus it looks better & has a smaller OD.


----------



## Revan654

Dupont Terminals (Tin Only) & Connectors are now being carried by MDPC-X. These are OEM not Molex (Molex are designed differently).


----------



## Deedaz

Working on my next build now. Purple, white and silver color scheme. I really love these aluminum cable combs.


----------



## Revan654

Made in Quad, Triple & Dual. Sata Cables are done. I went with normal Sata styles over Pushdown since they looked better & they hold the wiring much better.





- Low Profile USB 3.0 (I can't stand those fat USB connectors). They easily fall out & can break the PCB.
- I had to remove one of the pins from the header pin since they only come in 20 Pin(Front Panel USB 3.0 cable has one of the slots blocked, I couldn't use the full 20 pin if I wanted to).
- I might get different heatshrink, I really don't like the type I'm using here, It's very thick a has a bit of weight to it compared to MDPC-X or MFC. MDPC-X nor MFC make heatshrink in the 18mm range. I could do a dual Sleeve type sleeving as well if I don't find any good heatshrink.




The most difficult terminals to crimp, However there finally finished. I had to use PAD-01 to crimp them since PA-09 couldn't fully crimp them. PAD-01 can go all the way down to 0.7mm. Thankfully my vision cables are now finished.





HD Audio Extensions Cable (Not sure why I made it Since I never use front Panel Audio ports, my speakers have all these features built in).


----------



## kgtuning

Nice work... man I really need to do my sata power cables over.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> Made in Quad, Triple & Dual. Sata Cables are done. I went with normal Sata styles over Pushdown since they looked better & they hold the wiring much better.
> 
> 
> 
> - Low Profile USB 3.0 (I can't stand those fat USB connectors). They easily fall out & can break the PCB.
> - I had to remove one of the pins from the header pin since they only come in 20 Pin(Front Panel USB 3.0 cable has one of the slots blocked, I couldn't use the full 20 pin if I wanted to).
> - I might get different heatshrink, I really don't like the type I'm using here, It's very thick a has a bit of weight to it compared to MDPC-X or MFC. MDPC-X nor MFC make heatshrink in the 18mm range. I could do a dual Sleeve type sleeving as well if I don't find any good heatshrink.


Nice work on those SATAcables! Your USB 3.0 also looks great. Where did you get the USB connectors?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Nice work on those SATAcables! Your USB 3.0 also looks great. Where did you get the USB connectors?


Thanks, It was actually very easy to do compared to annoying Pico terminals. There a bit smaller then Fan terminals, but not as small as Pico.

Everything is made by Molex and bought from Mouser. Buy the reel (100 Count) when it comes to the terminals. It's better to have to many then to little. you will need 40 per cable.

Link(Housing without Lock): http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0511102050_CRIMP_HOUSINGS.xml
Link(Housing with Lock): http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0511102051_CRIMP_HOUSINGS.xml
Terminals: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0873968051_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml
Wiring: http://alphawire.com/en/Products/Wire/EcoGen/EcoWire/6713
Header: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0877582050_PCB_HEADERS.xml

^ Don't have to use the same wiring, Just be careful on the OD. Some 22 AWG wiring OD is massive & it will not fit inside the terminal. I just really like AlphaWire Eco Series. It has a smaller OD witch allows you to you use larger gauge of wire.

I got away with using a much larger gauge with my Pico terminals. Once you head into 16 AWG the wiring get's very expensive. Where you can get PVC for half the price at a Sleeving shop (like Mod-One or MDPC-X).

You will have to remove one pin from the header. Since some USB 3.0 cables block the 20th hole on the cable. They can be removed very easily.


----------



## bolo1800

Been a hell of a two weeks getting ready for a show, it's over now and here are the results.


----------



## Juris

Anyone know the best way to clean white sleeved cables. Just finishing up my build and after looking at a new white 60cm cable I had lying around in comparison its clear all my fiddling without gloves on has made my cables filthy and discoloured. Would soaking in bleach or iso alcohol be best?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> Anyone know the best way to clean white sleeved cables. Just finishing up my build and after looking at a new white 60cm cable I had lying around in comparison its clear all my fiddling without gloves on has made my cables filthy and discoloured. Would soaking in bleach or iso alcohol be best?


Soap and water. Air dry with fan.


----------



## Juris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Soap and water. Air dry with fan.


Cheers just washed the 24-pin as you said and its now sparkly clean.


----------



## pslate

Hi all, I have a question about creating two curves on a 24 pin extension. I want to create a cable for my NCASE M1 with a similar curve to that of this picture:


__
http://instagr.am/p/BUJNvYZlVli%2F/

I am familiar with the math used to calculate the length of the lower wire in a curved extension for a 180 degree curve (~0.5" or 13.2mm shorter) but I'm wondering if anyone has a guess as to how much shorter the top cables should get as I work from longest to shortest. It looks like a 90 degree bend to the left, so should I make each top cable 6.6mm shorter than the previous? (with the lower wire in the extension 13.2mm shorter?)

I only need to build an extension as I already have a Corsair Shorty cable adapter from Ensourced.


----------



## ruffhi

The 1/2" comes from the 4.2mm between each pin in the 24-pin connector.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *math*
> For a full 360° turn &#8230;
> Additional length = 2 pi (r + 4.2) - 2 pi r
> Additional length = 2 pi (4.2)
> Additional length = 26.4 or 1.04"
> 
> Or 1/4" per 90° turn.


You are not only moving 4.2mm from row 1 to row 2 ... but 4.2mm from pin 1 to pin 2, etc. You'll need to calculate the diagonal offset ... sqrt (4.2^2 + 4.2^2) = 5.94.

I'll see if I can sketch something up later. BTW ... I think you will also need to know the angle between the two 24-pin connectors.


----------



## ruffhi

Does anyone have experience in sleeving speaker cables and using banana clips?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pslate*
> 
> Hi all, I have a question about creating two curves on a 24 pin extension. I want to create a cable for my NCASE M1 with a similar curve to that of this picture:
> 
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/BUJNvYZlVli%2F/
> 
> .


It all depends on how the cable will to be run from the PSU to Motherboard & how much of a arch you want. Sometimes you don't need to cut them shorter. Usually less then 1mm will work. Since it's just an extension you don't have to worry about the wires crossing or the Y cable.

If you plan on doing any kind of routing with the cables you need to take that into account as well.



It may be a bit hard to tell from the picture since I didn't have the other set of connectors yet., All my wires are exactly the same size, It still creates the perfect curve.





I also created some test wires & crimp them to test if smaller or larger wires will be needed.


----------



## Himo5

When shaping a cable through an irregular path the variation of the position of each pin around its wire is just as important to getting a good result as the variation in length.

I've had some good results by leaving the crimping at one end of the cable until after the cable has been fully shaped, using 0.3mm nylon beading wire and a needle to mark where the top of each pin should be around the sleeved wire at a uniform distance from where it should be cut.

It requires care to mark this angle on the wire when the cut is made, losing the tortional relationship between the sleeve and the wire, but if you think through what you have to do, such as making your mark far enough away from the cut to grip and hold the tension on the sleeve while you crimp the wire, you can get quite close to the result you wanted.

If you look at the first photo in my AvariGold rig it should give you an idea of what I mean.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I'll see if I can sketch something up later. BTW ... I think you will also need to know the angle between the two 24-pin connectors.


Picture 1 ... here is what I understand that you want to do ...



Description ...

two 24-pin connectors offset by 90°
note pins are labeled to make my life easier ... probably doesn't correspond to any pin location for a pin out
pin 1 goes to pin 1
pin 2 goes to pin 2
etc


Description ...

here is where it gets easy and fun (at the same time)
orange line is pin 1 to pin 1
it doesn't matter how long orange is ... you just want to know how much LONGER blue and green are
imagine line (blue dashed line) at 90° to orange ... need to measure the length of green that the blue dashed lines cuts off (dark green dotted line)
You also need to calculate theta (Ø)
I think the orange, blue and green lines are parallel ... I could be wrong
It probably won't matter if theta changes slightly (or you mis-measure it) as you won't be able to cut the wire lengths with enough precision


Description ...

dropping the lines that don't matter
gives us a triangle with a 90° angle
the angle marked is theta
the length of the hypostomus (black line) is a known amount (4.2mm x number of slots over = 4.2 x 3 = 12.6mm)
using trig ... the length of green dotted line = 12.6mm cos(theta)
if you are using excel, you'll need to convert the degrees to radians before running it through the excel cos() function.
Sample answers ...

*Ø dotted green line*
30 10.9mm
40 9.7mm
50 8.1mm
60 6.3mm
70 4.3mm

Actually - the angle is pretty important!

Note that this calculates the dotted green line. This is only the extra length at one of the pins. Either the extra length at the other pin is the same length (in which case you just double the number) or it uses the other side of that triangle ... I would need to play with the connectors to visualize it ... but I think it is the other side of the triangle ... in which case the length would be 4.2 x 3 x cos(90 - theta).

Finally, with the pins in the bottom row, I think that you can calculate the extra length for the bottom row (ie pin 2 connector v pin 1 connector) and then add that _extra length_ for each pin in the bottom row (ie pin X length = pin X-1 length + _extra length_).

You have the connectors ... cut some string that mimics the orange string (pull it tight - doesn't matter as you are after the EXTRA length for the other pins), do the math and cut some string that mimics the green string and then see if it is the right length. In fact, you could just cut various string to the required length and measure the additional string used for each run ... no maths required.


----------



## ruffhi

I was thinking about the above ... and all of that guff that I posted will give you the diameter of the half circle your cables will make. you'll need to use the length of a circumference maths to get the actual length of each cable relative to the cable at pin #1.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I was thinking about the above ... and all of that guff that I posted will give you the diameter of the half circle your cables will make. you'll need to use the length of a circumference maths to get the actual length of each cable relative to the cable at pin #1.


From my somewhat limited experience, the calculated wire lengths work fine for simple bends on extensions, but once you start dealing with longer runs and multiple bends, it's better to just crimp one end and cut the wires to length after the cable is routed.


----------



## pslate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> snip


This is amazing! Thank you so much for taking the time to write it all down. I'm going to try my best and see what I can calculate. I haven't had math since calculus in high school but I think I can figure it all out


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pslate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> snip
> 
> 
> 
> This is amazing! Thank you so much for taking the time to write it all down. I'm going to try my best and see what I can calculate. I haven't had math since calculus in high school but I think I can figure it all out
Click to expand...

No worries. I would strongly recommend testing the calculation of one of the pins with string ... I would hate to see you do the math, cut the wire and _then_ find out it doesn't work.


----------



## pslate

For sure. I used pipe cleaners in my first cable set for the Ncase to measure distances. That was nice because they are flexible. The problem is that they tend to shed a bit..


----------



## kovyrshin

Hi all.

Doing my 1st build in a years: http://www.overclock.net/t/1637432/build-log-aio-workstation-28-cores-caselabs-bh8
Just figured out that Corsair SATA power cables won't work for me, and I'll need a custom ones: Need 3 power connector on specific distance from each other. Can you point me to someone who can help with that? Or it's better to source my own instruments, and do it myself? I can go with latter, but getting all that stuff just for one build is probably too much.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kovyrshin*
> 
> Hi all.
> 
> Doing my 1st build in a years: http://www.overclock.net/t/1637432/build-log-aio-workstation-28-cores-caselabs-bh8
> Just figured out that Corsair SATA power cables won't work for me, and I'll need a custom ones: Need 3 power connector on specific distance from each other. Can you point me to someone who can help with that? Or it's better to source my own instruments, and do it myself? I can go with latter, but getting all that stuff just for one build is probably too much.


You just need to create a single wire with Y segments at certain points. You need to strip the wire and then you can solder two wires together.

Examples of what I mean:




I would contact singularity computers to see if they can make what you require if you want hand made cables.

I hate to suggest this but CableMods allows you to make your own cables as well with different for each connector. I just don't suggest them due to wiring & sleeving they use is very budget quality. 99% of cable combs out there don't work with there cables.


----------



## kovyrshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> You just need to create a single wire with Y segments at certain points. You need to strip the wire and then you can solder two wires together.


I don't want straight sata power cables: There's not much space. Instead I want to run it like here:

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/25pftl/discussion_making_custom_sata_power_cables/%5B/URL
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I would contact singularity computers to see if they can make what you require if you want hand made cables.
> 
> I hate to suggest this but CableMods allows you to make your own cables as well with different for each connector. I just don't suggest them due to wiring & sleeving they use is very budget quality. 99% of cable combs out there don't work with there cables.


ATX + 2x EPS + 2x SATA Triple are $125 on cable mods, which is quite expensive to me. That doesn't include other cables like PCIE power.

Or I can get $100 SC kit, $50 in tools and do it myself. Since I don't need all the stuff in SC kit I can source it myself cheaper somewhere else. Does it sound like a better idea? Ideally I'd rent the tools, since I won't need em after that build, but it might be useful later for something else.

There's always, a chance I'll redo my drive configuration, that's where I'll might need different cabling as well.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kovyrshin*
> 
> I don't want straight sata power cables: There's not much space.
> 
> Here's the issue. I want 3 drives in cage on the same cable, and power comes from the top of the cage.
> 
> ATX + 2x EPS + 2x SATA Triple are $125 on cable mods, which is quite expensive to me. That doesn't include other cables like PCIE power.
> 
> Or I can get $100 SC kit, $50 in tools and do it myself. Since I don't need all the stuff in SC kit I can source it myself cheaper somewhere else. Does it sound like a better idea? Ideally I'd rent the tools, since I won't need em after that build, but it might be useful later for something else.


Hand made cables are going to be more money.

They do sell Short Sata connectors for terminal style connectors.



You want push down connectors,

You want something like this(Created this awhile back, But never used them):



Link: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0679260015_IDT_AND_SOLDER_CON.xml
Link: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/67926-0015/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhehpsG5ql7jxFMZY0wHqidntU58wWbr9Q%3d
Link(MDPC-X WebStore): https://www.cable-sleeving.com/crimp-terminals-and-connectors

PushDown Tool:
Link: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0638133503_APPLICATION_TOOLIN.xml&part=active/0679260015_IDT_AND_SOLDER_CON.xml
Link: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/63813-3503/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugvUfN6a7U0yOCF3Jw30AB6n4tyVkMnLEI%3d

or if your careful you can use flatheaded screw driver (I do not suggest stripping the wire before push the wire down since it can break the strands)

Not sure you can rent MDPC-X like crimpers, Not all crimpers are created the same. You need to make sure the crimpers have teeth, if not it going to create allot of issues & wasted supplies. I suggest using MDPC-X crimper.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> ...I do not suggest stripping the wire before push the wire down since it can break the strands...


Two other reasons for not stripping the conductors first are to prevent pull out and to avoid unnecessary work. However, if one is putting a lot HDDs on a single cable (three wouldn't be a problem), it's advisable to use larger wire to avoid voltage drops that could cause a drive to drop out. Larger wire sizes can be unable to fit in the punch-down connectors unless one strips the insulation off the wire first. It is possible to strip the insulation without breaking strands as long as one uses a sharp knife and is careful.

I've managed to get #14 wire to fit in the punch-down connectors sold by modDIY. The caps on their connectors will accommodate larger wires than the caps on most other connectors (it's still necessary to strip insulation on the larger wires). #16 wire will fit without stripping if the insulation is thin enough.

I've had excellent luck using a four pin fan pin removal tool to punch down wires into punch-down connectors; they cost less and many people will already have one on hand. It's imperative that the connector be somehow secured so one has both hands free for punching down the wires. Options include using a small vise or a small pair of vise grips to gently grip the connector. Many people put the connectors onto the installed HDDs to hold them in place and establish the correct spacing. That runs the risk of breaking the PCB connector on the drive although I have done that by using dead drives instead (yes, I am a coward; cheap, too).

One thing to remember when punching down the wires is not to try to drive them too deeply into the slot. The wire only needs to just touch the bottom of the slot. Anymore than that can damage the connector. My old hands are too weak anymore to just push the wires into the slots so I use a small tack hammer to _gently_ tap the tool pushing in the wire, especially when using larger sizes.


----------



## kovyrshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Hand made cables are going to be more money.
> 
> You want push down connectors,
> You want something like this(Created this awhile back, But never used them):
> 
> 
> 
> or if your careful you can use flatheaded screw driver (I do not suggest stripping the wire before push the wire down since it can break the strands)
> 
> Not sure you can rent MDPC-X like crimpers, Not all crimpers are created the same. You need to make sure the crimpers have teeth, if not it going to create allot of issues & wasted supplies. I suggest using MDPC-X crimper.


That's exactly what I'm thinking about! In fact I have caselabs case too.
I'll go over your thread later tonight. One quick question though: do I need to cut wire somehow when attaching to punch down connector? Or simply push with screwdriver or molex tool? Do I need to cut sleeves before that? I'm not sure about sleeves for HDD connection though.

Lady Fitzgerald, that's great input, thanks! Not sure if I need 14awg wire for three drives. Will likely use 16awg for three drives.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kovyrshin*
> 
> That's exactly what I'm thinking about! In fact I have caselabs case too.
> I'll go over your thread later tonight. One quick question though: do I need to cut wire somehow when attaching to punch down connector? Or simply push with screwdriver or molex tool? Do I need to cut sleeves before that? I'm not sure about sleeves for HDD connection though.
> 
> Lady Fitzgerald, that's great input, thanks! Not sure if I need 14awg wire for three drives. Will likely use 16awg for three drives.


The wire doesn't need any kind of special cuts in the middle. You want to leave everything intact. A simply screwdriver or molex tool will work just fine. Just don't try to push down the wire done with the connector attached to the harddrive, You will break the nylon connectors on your drives very easily.

As for Sleeving it has to be attached before pushing down on the next connector. Sleeving is very tricky with these type connectors, Since the Sleeving is to large to actually enter the connector, they have to sit on the outside. With the Covers attached it hides the fact there loose, It's usually a good idea to use tighter sleeving like 2mm Darkside Sleeving.

The cables only look good with JMT or Molex branded push down. Since they have wider covers for the connector.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kovyrshin*
> 
> That's exactly what I'm thinking about! In fact I have caselabs case too.
> I'll go over your thread later tonight. One quick question though: do I need to cut wire somehow when attaching to punch down connector? Or simply push with screwdriver or molex tool? Do I need to cut sleeves before that? I'm not sure about sleeves for HDD connection though.
> 
> Lady Fitzgerald, that's great input, thanks! Not sure if I need 14awg wire for three drives. Will likely use 16awg for three drives.
> 
> 
> 
> The wire doesn't need any kind of special cuts in the middle. You want to leave everything intact. A simply screwdriver or molex tool will work just fine. Just don't try to push down the wire done with the connector attached to the harddrive, You will break the nylon connectors on your drives very easily.
> 
> As for Sleeving it has to be attached before pushing down on the next connector. Sleeving is very tricky with these type connectors, Since the Sleeving is to large to actually enter the connector, they have to sit on the outside. With the Covers attached it hides the fact there loose, It's usually a good idea to use tighter sleeving like 2mm Darkside Sleeving.
> 
> The cables only look good with JMT or Molex branded push down. Since they have wider covers for the connector.
Click to expand...

Sigh! You aren't paying attention. I said you had to remove the insulation from the wire only on the larger wires, definitely on #14 and possibly on #16, depending on the thickness of the insulation.

The wider covers you mentioned will work for sleeving smaller wires, such as #18 and, maybe (a big maybe), #16 but will not on #14. The insulation itself on #14 won't fit under the wider covers. The problem is moot for kovyshrin is moot since #18 is plenty large for only three HDDs.

The problem with fraying sleeving ends can be avoided by using a tight sleeving and carefully singeing the ends before slipping them onto the wires. Some people apply super glue to the wire insulation before (or, sometimes, after) slipping on the sleeving but getting the right amount of glue so it doesn't mar the appearance of the sleeving is tricky. I saw one person actually use shrink tubing to melt the ends of the sleeves, then trim the melted portion back, leaving a narrow, melted collar on the ends of the sleeve. That took some serious skill and patience!

I never bothered with sleeving between the connectors since I don't like individually sleeved cables and prefer to use one sleeve over all the wires in a cable (cables are less bulky that way) but that's just a matter of personal taste. When done right, sleeves on the cables between the connectors do look sharp.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kovyrshin*
> 
> ...Lady Fitzgerald, that's great input, thanks! Not sure if I need 14awg wire for three drives. Will likely use 16awg for three drives.


For only three wires, #18 wire will be plenty big and will be a lot easier to punch down. Not all #16 wire will easily fit in the connectors since some wiring has thicker insulation than other wiring. You can use pretty much any punch-down connector with #18 and, if you want to sleeve the wires between the connectors, the ones with the wider covers will cover the raw ends better.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kovyrshin*
> 
> ...Lady Fitzgerald, that's great input, thanks! Not sure if I need 14awg wire for three drives. Will likely use 16awg for three drives.
> 
> 
> 
> For only three HDDs, #18 wire will be plenty big and will be a lot easier to punch down. Not all #16 wire will easily fit in the connectors since some wiring has thicker insulation than other wiring. You can use pretty much any punch-down connector with #18 and, if you want to sleeve the wires between the connectors, the ones with the wider covers will cover the raw ends better.
Click to expand...


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Sigh! You aren't paying attention. I said you had to remove the insulation from the wire only on the larger wires, definitely on #14 and possibly on #16, depending on the thickness of the insulation.
> 
> The wider covers you mentioned will work for sleeving smaller wires, such as #18 and, maybe (a big maybe), #16 but will not on #14. The insulation itself on #14 won't fit under the wider covers. The problem is moot for kovyshrin is moot since #18 is plenty large for only three HDDs.
> 
> The problem with fraying sleeving ends can be avoided by using a tight sleeving and carefully singeing the ends before slipping them onto the wires. Some people apply super glue to the wire insulation before (or, sometimes, after) slipping on the sleeving but getting the right amount of glue so it doesn't mar the appearance of the sleeving is tricky. I saw one person actually use shrink tubing to melt the ends of the sleeves, then trim the melted portion back, leaving a narrow, melted collar on the ends of the sleeve. That took some serious skill and patience!
> 
> I never bothered with sleeving between the connectors since I don't like individually sleeved cables and prefer to use one sleeve over all the wires in a cable (cables are less bulky that way) but that's just a matter of personal taste. When done right, sleeves on the cables between the connectors do look sharp.


Actually your looking at 16 AWG 2.5+ OD inside Molex Push Down Sata. Nothing needs to be cut.

Not sure what OD your using with 14 AWG, I'm guessing your using a larger OD. I already have gotten 14 AWG inside the connectors, Sleeved and covers fit just fine.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

[quote name="Revan654" url="/t/662039/cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion/14360#post_26413234...Not sure what OD your using with 14 AWG, I'm guessing your using a larger OD. I already have gotten 14 AWG inside the connectors, Sleeved and covers fit just fine.[/quote]

In my experience, #14 wire would only fit the connectors I tried after I removed a section of insulation and the only covers that would fit over the insulation are the ones from modDIY. When I tried to punch down the wire without removing the insulation, I broke the connectors. I get my #14 from Fry's simply because their wire has the thinnest insulation I've been able to find.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> [quote name="Revan654" url="/t/662039/cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion/14360#post_26413234...Not sure what OD your using with 14 AWG, I'm guessing your using a larger OD. I already have gotten 14 AWG inside the connectors, Sleeved and covers fit just fine.


In my experience, #14 wire would only fit the connectors I tried after I removed a section of insulation and the only covers that would fit over the insulation are the ones from modDIY. When I tried to punch down the wire without removing the insulation, I broke the connectors. I get my #14 from Fry's simply because their wire has the thinnest insulation I've been able to find.[/quote]

It's not the thinnest, It may be the cheapest. There 14 AWG that have OD of 2.4.


----------



## msd0

Revan, did you use anything to secure the sleeve between the SATA power connectors?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Revan, did you use anything to secure the sleeve between the SATA power connectors?


Nothing, The Sleeving I used was very tight, It was impossible to move without force. I did use a hot knife to prevent feathering effect.


----------



## kovyrshin

okay, okay , I got it: #16 with Push down molex. Use either tool, or fan tool, or screwdriver.
Looks straightforward.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> [quote name="Revan654" url="/t/662039/cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion/14360#post_26413234...Not sure what OD your using with 14 AWG, I'm guessing your using a larger OD. I already have gotten 14 AWG inside the connectors, Sleeved and covers fit just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> In my experience, #14 wire would only fit the connectors I tried after I removed a section of insulation and the only covers that would fit over the insulation are the ones from modDIY. When I tried to punch down the wire without removing the insulation, I broke the connectors. I get my #14 from Fry's simply because their wire has the thinnest insulation I've been able to find.
Click to expand...

It's not the thinnest, It may be the cheapest. There 14 AWG that have OD of 2.4.[/quote]

Where did you find that wire? The thinnest I've ben able to find is 3mm.


----------



## D-S-J

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Where did you find that wire? The thinnest I've ben able to find is 3mm.


Mouser sells plenty of branded hook up wire 14awg less than 3mm. Like Alphawire 14awg 2.18 OD, rivals even some cheaper 16awg in terms of OD. It's not cost effective at $150-160 for 100ft for most.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D-S-J*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Where did you find that wire? The thinnest I've ben able to find is 3mm.
> 
> 
> 
> Mouser sells plenty of branded hook up wire 14awg less than 3mm. Like Alphawire 14awg 2.18 OD, rivals even some cheaper 16awg in terms of OD. It's not cost effective at $150-160 for 100ft for most.
Click to expand...

"Not cost effective" is putting it politely. Is that stuff gold plated? I'll stick to the "inferior" wire I'm getting from Fry's since it doesn't require me to sell my first born. Fortunately, I'll be needing #14 for only one 30-36" five wire cable for the temporarily stalled build I've been working on (and I already have the wire on hand).

'Tis a shame MAINFrame Customs doesn't sell anything larger than #16. Their #16 is thinner by far than anything else I've been able to find and doesn't cost the national debt of a small country.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> "Not cost effective" is putting it politely. Is that stuff gold plated? I'll stick to the "inferior" wire I'm getting from Fry's since it doesn't require me to sell my first born. Fortunately, I'll be needing #14 for only one 30-36" five wire cable for the temporarily stalled build I've been working on (and I already have the wire on hand).
> 
> 'Tis a shame MAINFrame Customs doesn't sell anything larger than #16. Their #16 is thinner by far than anything else I've been able to find and doesn't cost the national debt of a small country.


It's 118 dollars for 100ft of mppe 14 AWG wiring. You can go all the way down to 12 AWG & still fit the wiring inside the Sata connector.

It's not PVC, it uses mppe which is the same type of wiring that is found in most cars, trucks, SUV, etc... It also has other properties that is not found in PVC wiring. As you go down in gauge mppe becomes very expensive. I do use 22 AWG in mppe which is the same price as PVC 22AWG wiring from Belden. It doesn't bulk of sleeving like PVC stuff does when creating fan & USB cables with MDPC-X.

After using 22 AWG from places like Moddiy, MFC, Performance-pcs, etc... there is a difference in quality going from all those places to Alphawire.

I wouldn't buy from MFC even if they did, I find there wire cheap in quality. Mod-One will always have my vote when it comes to quality supplies. You also have MDPC-X which there wiring goes down to 15 AWG.

MFC wiring is actually a bit thicker then Mod-One 2mm (-/+) wiring.

I have found MFC supplies have gone down in quality recently, There heatshrink is not what it use to be. It now has this wet look once you heat up the heatshrink. It also doesn't shrink down to as much compared to what they used a few years back(Still have some of lt). It's why I will be using MDPC-X with all supplies going forward. Not even going to touch the mess that there sleeving is.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kovyrshin*
> 
> okay, okay , I got it: #16 with Push down molex. Use either tool, or fan tool, or screwdriver.
> Looks straightforward.


A small vise or something to hold the connector is also helpful, especially if your using a screwdriver.


----------



## Modpcru

Hi! There's my vision of the cable's sleeving:


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> A small vise or something to hold the connector is also helpful, especially if your using a screwdriver.


Your only using one hand for the Molex insert tool, your other hand is free to hold the connector. Most helping hands tools tend to scratch up the connector.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> A small vise or something to hold the connector is also helpful, especially if your using a screwdriver.
> 
> 
> 
> Your only using one hand for the Molex insert tool, your other hand is free to hold the connector. Most helping hands tools tend to scratch up the connector.
Click to expand...

Something like a vise or a small pair of vise grips, if used gently (in other words, don't clamp down tightly), will not scratch a connector body. If scratching still concerns you, pad the jaws with a few layers of tape.

My old hands are not strong enough to push down hard enough on a punch down tool, especially when punching down larger diameter wire and hang onto the connector so I use a small 4" pair of vise grips to ensure the connector stays upright, then use a small tack hammer in one hand to gently tap on the tool I'm using (a 4 pin fan pin extractor) to punch down the wire. I've yet to scratch up a connector and I don't even bother to pad the vise grip's jaws.


----------



## Himo5

I prefer to use a spread insulation method with inline Sata powerstrips (apart from the end connector), not only to avoid broken filaments in the wire but also to get that difficult combination of exactly parallel connectors exactly spaced across the drive cage. The end connector and the crimp at the other end of the wire then clamp the connectors between the insulation.



I also prefer to use 5x1pin Mini-Fit Male and Female connectors to make the powerstrip independent from the PSU and avoid having single sleeved 5-wire cables from the PSU to the drive cage.



Another thing worth doing is to build the powerstrip for the drive cage rather than your first set of drives.
I find that 16awg wire is slightly too big for these connectors while, on the other hand, 18awg wire is slightly too small for them to guarantee that pushing 18awg wire into their jaws will always produce a reliable contact.
I posted a guide for treating sleeve for inline power strips in Frequently-Asked-Sleeving-Questions last March which might be useful.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> I prefer to use a spread insulation method with inline Sata powerstrips (apart from the end connector), not only to avoid broken filaments in the wire but also to get that difficult combination of exactly parallel connectors exactly spaced across the drive cage...


While that method will work great for up to three or four connectors on a cable, I had to laugh when I saw that because I'm starting to work on a "cable" that will have 16 connectors on it. I can just see myself trying to slide that much insulation!









All seriousness aside, that is an excellent method but people will need to keep in mind not all cases space their drives the same distance apart from each other and will need to adjust the cutting diagram accordingly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> ...I find that 16awg wire is slightly too big for these connectors while, on the other hand, 18awg wire is slightly too small for them to guarantee that pushing 18awg wire into their jaws will always produce a reliable contact...


I've found that this #16 wire from MAINFrame Custom will fit these connectors from modDIY without the need for stripping. The same connectors will make a good connection with #18 wire, also without stripping.


----------



## Himo5

My cases all have 5-bay drive cages, but I have used a 250mm connection tail on them before and had no trouble sliding the insulation along the wire.

I do all my work with standard UL1007 hook up wire usually from ModDiy or Ebay and I find that the insulation on 16awg wire provides the best fit you could get in the plastic bushing on SATA inlline connectors because when it is squashed there is a tight fit between the bottom of the bush and the bottom of the connector cap.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> *not only to avoid broken filaments*


I assume Filament means Strands? Not sure why your calling it that. No matter how you cut it the wire, The strands can still break when pushing it down inside the connector once stripped or partly stripped.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> I do all my work with standard UL1007 hook up wire usually from ModDiy or Ebay and I find that the insulation on 16awg wire provides the best fit you could get in the plastic bushing on SATA inlline connectors because when it is squashed there is a tight fit between the bottom of the bush and the bottom of the connector cap.


Moddiy wiring is very cheap when you compare to places like Mod-One or Alphawire.





JMT Connectors with 2.5 OD wiring with MDPC-X.

I still prefer the normal terminal sata cables.



----

While talking to a few people over at MDPC-X, They even said have yet to see a good looking sleeving Pushdown sata cable.


----------



## Himo5

The point about removing the insulation is that you can then squeeze the STRANDS in the wire so that they aren't cut by the jaw blades when you coax them into position.

This removes the chance of insulation getting completely between the jaws and the wire and breaking the contact.

It is also much easier to disassemble the power strip without spoiling the wires.

Apart from the end connector this spread insulation method removes the dangers of excess force from the process.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> *not only to avoid broken filaments*
> 
> 
> 
> I assume Filament means Strands? Not sure why your calling it that. No matter how you cut it the wire, The strands can still break when pushing it down inside the connector once stripped or partly stripped...
Click to expand...

Maybe Himo5's first language isn't English? I don't know why you referred to cut the wire as "cut _it_ the wire" unless, maybe, your first language also isn't English?

Petty language and/or grammar issues aside, one is far more likely to break or weaken strands during the stripping operation than while punching them down.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> ......


OK, _no_w I see how you were able to punch down #14 wire into an inline connector without stripping the insulation. Those are Molex four pin power connectors, which are considerably larger per slot than inline SATA power connectors. It's like comparing oranges to kumquats.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> ...
> ...


While you did an excellent job making those cables (seriously, you deserve to be proud of your work!), that is a whole "heckuvalotta" cables there, especially when compared to a simple, single ladder style cable. I prefer my cables to stay out of sight as much as possible (admittedly, my preference is in the minority). The only electrical advantage to separate cables for each drive like that cable harness is a reduction in the effects of voltage drops caused by one or more drives on other drives, something that can also be as effectively mitigated by the use of larger wires in a single ladder style cable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> ...While talking to a few people over at MDPC-X, They even said have yet to see a good looking sleeving Pushdown sata cable.


Then they are blind and/or are idiots. I've seen plenty of examples of excellent looking sleeving on wires between punch down connectors, even just here on OCN, such as yours and Himo5's.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> The point about removing the insulation is that you can then squeeze the STRANDS in the wire so that they aren't cut by the jaw blades when you coax them into position.
> 
> This removes the chance of insulation getting completely between the jaws and the wire and breaking the contact.
> 
> It is also much easier to disassemble the power strip without spoiling the wires.
> 
> Apart from the end connector this spread insulation method removes the dangers of excess force from the process.


I've yet to have had problems with the insulation preventing the conductor making good contact with the "jaws" (blades, whatever) of a punch down connector when the insulation hasn't been stripped first as long as the wire was #18 or larger. I've also had not trouble with the strands breaking or getting cut when the insulation hasn't been stripped first (in fact, one is far more likely to damage the strands by stripping the insulation). The only time I would bother to strip insulation is when the wire is so large, it damages the connector while punching it down.

I'm working on a possible solution to that last problem since having to remove the insulation in 18 places on five wires on my next project is a job I am so NOT looking forward to doing!


----------



## Himo5

I've had trouble with lost drives on 18awg powerstrips before and I certainly wouldn't fancy punching 16awg wire 90 times.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

If running more that three or four HDDs, especially 7200rpm drives, on a single cable, #18 is too small to avoid voltage drops that can cause drives to drop out. That's why I use the largest wire I possibly can.

The only thing worse than having to do 90 punch downs is having to strip 90 sections of wire before doing the punch downs. However, unless I can figure how to keep #14 with insulation from bending the contacts in each slot over into the adjacent slots, I have no choice but to strip before punching.


----------



## Himo5

When I've had contact problems with 18awg SATA powerstrips the answer has always been to punch them down more firmly, even when all 5 bays are in use. Somewhere beyond 6 VelociRaptor 10Krev HDDs there might be voltage drops but Seasonic supply 4pc 18awg SATA cables with their Gold PSUs which I don't think they would do if there was any danger of marginal functionality.

I wasn't very confident of keeping the wires intact myself when I first took up this method but I soon discovered that once you've found which notch to use on the mini stripping knife you instantly know when you're about to apply too much pressure. When you mark the lines first, scoring them afterwards is a quick and easy task.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> ...I wasn't very confident of keeping the wires intact myself when I first took up this method but I soon discovered that once you've found which notch to use on the mini stripping knife you instantly know when you're about to apply too much pressure. When you mark the lines first, scoring them afterwards is a quick and easy task.


I blew off the mini-stripper at first until you intrigued me with this explanation of how it works. I now have some on order. Thanks!


----------



## Himo5

Best of luck with your chain of 18 or $9000 worth of 10TB IronWolfs


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Best of luck with your chain of 18 or $9000 worth of 10TB IronWolfs































If only! All seriousness aside, I going to be building a "power strip" except, instead of 120v outlets, it will have 16 or 17 SATA power connectors installed as sockets in a Wiremold strip. The strip will run vertically at the back of the 5.25" cage in the case I'm building with one "outlet" for each of the 14 bays plus two or three extra outlets for whatever (I would rather have them and not need them than to need them and not have them). To keep the cable feeding the power strip from showing, it will enter the strip from the PSU enclosure through a hole in the back of the strip and will splice into the wiring around two or three "outlets" (hence the need for the 18th insulation stripping).

As far as $9000 of drives go, again, if only. The computer will initially have one Samsung 512GB 950 Pro and 4-5 4TB 850 EVOs (you can do the math) and will eventually hold up to 8 SATA SSDs (The SATA SSDs will also be in 5.25" bays). It will also have four 2.5" hot swap bays, one USM bay, an ODD, and (maybe) a fan controller.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If only! All seriousness aside, I going to be building a "power strip" except, instead of 120v outlets, it will have 16 or 17 SATA power connectors installed as sockets in a Wiremold strip. The strip will run vertically at the back of the 5.25" cage in the case I'm building with one "outlet" for each of the 14 bays plus two or three extra outlets for whatever (I would rather have them and not need them than to need them and not have them and need them). To keep the cable feeding the power strip from showing, it will enter the strip from the PSU enclosure through a hole in the back of the strip and will splice into the wiring around two or three "outlets" (hence the need for the 18th insulation stripping).


Interesting analogy, that power strip. Hypothetically, you could take the industrial approach to power provisioning, something along the lines of what's used in server and other racks, vme backplanes/cages, etc., building in a power bus of sorts. I had considered that myself at one time and still am thinking about using a hybrid solution made out of strips of copper and an insulating strategy that would help keep me from turning into a human glow lamp, if but to be different from the mainstream. It comes with with its own unique safety risks of course which can be mitigated, and while it's not necessarily for the faint of heart, it certainly is feasible.

Anyway, that's what your power strip brought to mind at this end.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If only! All seriousness aside, I going to be building a "power strip" except, instead of 120v outlets, it will have 16 or 17 SATA power connectors installed as sockets in a Wiremold strip. The strip will run vertically at the back of the 5.25" cage in the case I'm building with one "outlet" for each of the 14 bays plus two or three extra outlets for whatever (I would rather have them and not need them than to need them and not have them and need them). To keep the cable feeding the power strip from showing, it will enter the strip from the PSU enclosure through a hole in the back of the strip and will splice into the wiring around two or three "outlets" (hence the need for the 18th insulation stripping).
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting analog, that power strip. Hypothetically, you could take the industrial approach to power provisioning, something along the lines of what's used in server and other racks, vme backplanes/cages, etc., building in a power bus of sorts. I had considered that myself at one time and still am thinking about using a hybrid solution made out of strips of copper and an insulating strategy that would help keep me from turning into a human glow lamp, if but to be different from the mainstream. It comes with with its own unique safety risks of course which can be mitigated, and while it's not necessarily for the faint of heart, it certainly is feasible.
> 
> Anyway, that's what your power strip brought to mind at this end.
Click to expand...

Essentially, the power strip is a power bus. You may have just given me an idea. I'll do a bit of research and number crunching first. Btw, human glow lamp made me chuckle.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> If running more that three or four HDDs, especially 7200rpm drives, on a single cable, #18 is too small to avoid voltage drops that can cause drives to drop out. That's why I use the largest wire I possibly can.
> 
> The only thing worse than having to do 90 punch downs is having to strip 90 sections of wire before doing the punch downs. However, unless I can figure how to keep #14 with insulation from bending the contacts in each slot over into the adjacent slots, I have no choice but to strip before punching.


A 7.2K hard drive pulls less than an amp. Unless your run is greater than 2-3M long wire won't be the bottleneck unless you are running like 12+ drives. I've ran 8 7.2K drives off 18AWG for years w/o issue.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> If running more that three or four HDDs, especially 7200rpm drives, on a single cable, #18 is too small to avoid voltage drops that can cause drives to drop out. That's why I use the largest wire I possibly can.
> 
> The only thing worse than having to do 90 punch downs is having to strip 90 sections of wire before doing the punch downs. However, unless I can figure how to keep #14 with insulation from bending the contacts in each slot over into the adjacent slots, I have no choice but to strip before punching.
> 
> 
> 
> A 7.2K hard drive pulls less than an amp. Unless your run is greater than 2-3M long wire won't be the bottleneck unless you are running like 12+ drives. I've ran 8 7.2K drives off 18AWG for years w/o issue.
Click to expand...

Add a hot swap bay to the cable and the starting current from inserting a drive into the line can cause a brief dropout. Keep in mind I'm going to be dealing with up to 8 SSDs, running on only 5v, not 12v, with a USM bay, an ODD, and four 2.5" hot swap bays all drawing power off the 5v bus (keep in mind that ODDs run off both 5v and 12v). That is approximately a 10A load most of the time on a 30" cable. ATX standards for 5v allows a +-5% voltage tolerance. With a 10A load, that would be a 2.6% voltage drop which would be fine _IF_ the PSU was putting out no less than -2.4% of 5v (keep in mind that the PSU could be under-volting as much as 5% and still be within ATX standards). Current peaks could exacerbate the situation at times.

When I run my errands today, I'm going to hit the hardware store and pick up some samples of #12 hookup wire and some #14 and #12 THHN/THWN (if the latter has more than 7 strands) to see if it may be possible to jam either of them into my inline SATA power connectors (the latter two have a nylon jacket around the insulation that is fairly easy to remove without damaging the underlying insulation. I still have room when I punch down the #14; the only reason I was limited to #14 in the past was the cap wouldn't clear the insulation with any bigger than that. However, I won't be using caps in this project due to clearance issues (in fact, I have to trim the tops off the connectors a bit). The plastic cap of the Wiremold will keep the wires corralled in the connectors.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> ...When I run my errands today, I'm going to hit the hardware store and pick up some samples of #12 hookup wire and some #14 and #12 THHN/THWN (if the latter has more than 7 strands) to see if it may be possible to jam either of them into my inline SATA power connectors (the latter two have a nylon jacket around the insulation that is fairly easy to remove without damaging the underlying insulation. I still have room when I punch down the #14; the only reason I was limited to #14 in the past was the cap wouldn't clear the insulation with any bigger than that. However, I won't be using caps in this project due to clearance issues (in fact, I have to trim the tops off the connectors a bit). The plastic cap of the Wiremold will keep the wires corralled in the connectors.


I found out the #12 THHN/THWN will not work; the strands are too coarse to easily cram into the slots of the connector. Even though the insulation is rather thick on the #12 automotive primary wire, I'm going to have to strip it anyway (it will also be easier to strip than the THHN/THWN) and the wire will fit into the connectors...barely. Not all of the strands fit down into the slot but the extra strands still fit just flush with the trimmed top of the connector. I'm considering soldering the joint to ensure good contact over time.

Since #12 is so much wider, I went ahead and ordered a Molex punch down tool rather than fight with the fan pin removal tool. Having to do 80-90 punches facing me convinced me it was worth it. While I'm waiting on the tool, I'll be working on the Wiremold. I need to chisel off the ridges on the bottom piece (which will become the top piece) and cut 14 slots for the connectors to fit into.


----------



## Modpcru

Here's new work of cable sleeve:


What do you think about it?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modpcru*
> 
> Snip


The cables look very plastic(maybe it's due to the lighting), Not sure what brand your using. Some brands have a weird look to them.

On a side note, Still have no idea why anyone would use ThermalCrap.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Modpcru*
> 
> Snip
> 
> 
> 
> The cables look very plastic(maybe it's due to the lighting), Not sure what brand your using. Personally I don't like how they look, they just have a kind of fake plastic look to them. Which I was never a fan of that type of sleeving.
> 
> On a side note, Still have no idea why anyone would use ThermalCrap.
Click to expand...

Someone got up on the wrong side of bed this morning. Modpcru didn't even ask for your opinion on the use of Thermaltake yet you felt obligated to comment?

@Modpcru Your cables look just fine. They are much better than stock cables.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Someone got up on the wrong side of bed this morning. Modpcru didn't even ask for your opinion on the use of Thermaltake yet you felt obligated to comment?
> 
> @Modpcru Your cables look just fine. They are much better than stock cables.


It was more of a question then a comment. If I was going to comment on ThermalSteal It would pages long.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Someone got up on the wrong side of bed this morning. Modpcru didn't even ask for your opinion on the use of Thermaltake yet you felt obligated to comment?
> 
> @Modpcru Your cables look just fine. They are much better than stock cables.
> 
> 
> 
> It was more of a question then a comment. If I was going to comment on ThermalSteal It would pages long.
Click to expand...

You are missing the point. I'm also not a fan of "Thermalfake", but that's not the point here. Modpcru was asking for an opinion on his cables, not on Thermaltake, especially delivered in such a harsh manner that attacked the user rather than just the product. Your opinion of Thermaltake, besides being unsolicited, was also off topic. This thread is about Cable Sleeving.

Your criticism of Modpcru's sleeving was also unnecessarily harsh, especially since it was mostly based on your personal preferences. You did specify that you do not that particular look but that was all you said and you did so in a harsh manner that came across as an attack on Mospcru. You could have also commented on the more positive aspects of his cables. I do not like cables that have each wire individually sleeved (I prefer cables to be as minimal as possible), I do not like the colors he used, and I detest cable combs but those are my opinions based on my personal tastes (not everyone has the same personal tastes so anyone's personal opinions on personal taste are purely subjective and irrelevant) and they do not change the fact that he did a good job of making his cables and obviously put a lot of time into making them and deserves to receive credit for it.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> You are missing the point. I'm also not a fan of "Thermalfake", but that's not the point here. Modpcru was asking for an opinion on his cables, not on Thermaltake, especially delivered in such a harsh manner that attacked the user rather than just the product. Your opinion of Thermaltake, besides being unsolicited, was also off topic. This thread is about Cable Sleeving.
> 
> Your criticism of Modpcru's sleeving was also unnecessarily harsh, especially since it was mostly based on your personal preferences. You did specify that you do not that particular look but that was all you said and you did so in a harsh manner that came across as an attack on Mospcru. You could have also commented on the more positive aspects of his cables. I do not like cables that have each wire individually sleeved (I prefer cables to be as minimal as possible), I do not like the colors he used, and I detest cable combs but those are my opinions based on my personal tastes (not everyone has the same personal tastes so anyone's personal opinions on personal taste are purely subjective and irrelevant) and they do not change the fact that he did a good job of making his cables and obviously put a lot of time into making them and deserves to receive credit for it.


sure.









I know better then anyone how time consuming & work it takes to make cables. my comment was toward sleeving looking plastic not the actual work on the cable nor was it gearing toward the person who made it.

You need to relax.


----------



## msd0

Is this the correct insertion tool for SATA power connectors?
http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0638133503_APPLICATION_TOOLIN.xml&part=active/0679260015_IDT_AND_SOLDER_CON.xml


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> You are missing the point. I'm also not a fan of "Thermalfake", but that's not the point here. Modpcru was asking for an opinion on his cables, not on Thermaltake, especially delivered in such a harsh manner that attacked the user rather than just the product. Your opinion of Thermaltake, besides being unsolicited, was also off topic. This thread is about Cable Sleeving.
> 
> Your criticism of Modpcru's sleeving was also unnecessarily harsh, especially since it was mostly based on your personal preferences. You did specify that you do not that particular look but that was all you said and you did so in a harsh manner that came across as an attack on Mospcru. You could have also commented on the more positive aspects of his cables. I do not like cables that have each wire individually sleeved (I prefer cables to be as minimal as possible), I do not like the colors he used, and I detest cable combs but those are my opinions based on my personal tastes (not everyone has the same personal tastes so anyone's personal opinions on personal taste are purely subjective and irrelevant) and they do not change the fact that he did a good job of making his cables and obviously put a lot of time into making them and deserves to receive credit for it.
> 
> 
> 
> sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know better then anyone how time consuming & work it takes to make cables. my comment was toward sleeving looking plastic not the actual work on the cable nor was it gearing toward the person who made it.
> 
> You need to relax.
Click to expand...

You need to learn how to communicate without being unnecessarily offensive.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Is this the correct insertion tool for SATA power connectors?
> http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0638133503_APPLICATION_TOOLIN.xml&part=active/0679260015_IDT_AND_SOLDER_CON.xml


Yes, It should have a red handle.


----------



## Modpcru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> You are missing the point. I'm also not a fan of "Thermalfake", but that's not the point here. Modpcru was asking for an opinion on his cables, not on Thermaltake, especially delivered in such a harsh manner that attacked the user rather than just the product. Your opinion of Thermaltake, besides being unsolicited, was also off topic. This thread is about Cable Sleeving.
> 
> Your criticism of Modpcru's sleeving was also unnecessarily harsh, especially since it was mostly based on your personal preferences. You did specify that you do not that particular look but that was all you said and you did so in a harsh manner that came across as an attack on Mospcru. You could have also commented on the more positive aspects of his cables. I do not like cables that have each wire individually sleeved (I prefer cables to be as minimal as possible), I do not like the colors he used, and I detest cable combs but those are my opinions based on my personal tastes (not everyone has the same personal tastes so anyone's personal opinions on personal taste are purely subjective and irrelevant) and they do not change the fact that he did a good job of making his cables and obviously put a lot of time into making them and deserves to receive credit for it.


Thank you very much! I'm very proud of your opinion! I'm really interesting of rating of my work for cable sleeve for my friend


----------



## Revan654

My Custom Made RGB Cable for farbwerk.

- The male end is double heatshrinked. 1st layer is adhesive heatshrink, then 2nd layer covers that heatshrink and holds the sleeving in place.


----------



## Revan654




----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*


So is the weave different or something or is it just smaller in size?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> So is the weave different or something or is it just smaller in size?


The Sleeving is smaller.

MDPC-X Small is 4 to 6mm range, XTC is 2mm+. Mod-One already has it up for sell.


----------



## Revan654

You can do heatshrinkless for everything now with XTC Sleeving. I did these cables a long time ago with DarkSide 2mm Sleeving. As you can see you can get the sleeving into fan & Dupont connectors.


----------



## bolo1800

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> The Sleeving is smaller.
> 
> MDPC-X Small is 4 to 6mm range, XTC is 2mm+. Mod-One already has it up for sell.


I don't think the sleeve is smaller. The weave is tighter so it can only expand to about 5 mm as opposed to the regular small sleeve. That what it says on the website.
Anyways can't wait to order some and check it out for myself.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bolo1800*
> 
> I don't think the sleeve is smaller. The weave is tighter so it can only expand to about 5 mm as opposed to the regular small sleeve. That what it says on the website.
> Anyways can't wait to order some and check it out for myself.


We will see soon (I read it quickly in the middle of the night, I could have missed something), once people get ahold of the product we will see the difference and the comparison.

Anyways DarkSide does have 2mm for those wanting to create the cables posted in the photos.


----------



## Revan654

Next Up Shade-19. It looks like MDPC-X is going with best sellers first.


----------



## Modpcru

New cable extensions with 4 mm sleeve:


----------



## Revan654

These are Black Light enabled as well. True UV-A, It's in the 395 to 405nm wavelength. These are waterproof too, Which made soldering them a bit harder since you have to remove every ounce of gel from the contact pads before you can actually solder the wiring to them.

---



^No-UV Effect




^UV Effect, Not sure how strong UV is in these bottles since these bottles are a bit old. These are the old EK Evo coolant bottles, Which Mayhem no longer makes for EK.

*Question:*

I know this was talked about awhile back, I can't seem to find the actual post on the subject matter. What is the best method to recolor a connector? The connectors I have only come in Natural and red, You can not buy black version of the connector. Spray Paint looks horrible, I was thinking of using plasti dip to see if results would be any better. anyone else have better options with re-coloring Nylon?


----------



## Himo5

It will be difficult to source white connectors through a modding shop, but suppliers like RS Components offer these connectors in multiple piece packs at low prices. The only source of white inline SATA connectors I know of. however, is ModDIY.
Usually they are white or transparent, but they take a dye like Jacquard Idye Poly very easily (often within a minute if the dye bath is very concentrated).


----------



## iamjanco

I'm not sure if it will work for the natural colored housings, but I do know people have been successful at *dyeing their fans different colors*. Going from light to dark would seem doable, while from dark to light not so much.


----------



## Himo5

Yes, you have to be careful about sourcing a uniform set of whites or transparents.

Sometimes it won't be possible to get them all the same.

Most of the connectors in this red set were either plain or cream white but the 18 and 24 pin female and 4 and 5 pin male Mini-Fit Junior connectors marked A-E were transparent.

Even if you think you have the right mixture you can be fooled by the material used, like the USB connector, F, which was just a plain white but came out different.

I've even come across some white fan connectors that won't take the dye at all.



Given these exceptions with connectors, acrylics and wire insulation all take up Idye Poly very quickly.

In fact, before you start you need to have a quick withdrawal routine that avoids spilling dye and getting it everywhere, because you need to inspect at least every 30 seconds, better still 15 seconds.

Tie every group together so you can draw them out of the dye bath and put them back in all in one go.

Having finally got hold of a pair of white/white HPII's for a Phanteks PH-TC14PE Gold Edition cooler I found they couldn't be dissassembled so went ahead and put them through the dye bath anyway.

At first I was going to cram them full of stuff to stop the dye getting into the works but in the end I just took the metal disks off and dangled them in by the leads for 1m15s.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can do heatshrinkless for everything now with XTC Sleeving. I did these cables a long time ago with DarkSide 2mm Sleeving. As you can see you can get the sleeving into fan & Dupont connectors.


What kind of heatshrink do you use to melt these small-diameter sleeves?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> What kind of heatshrink do you use to melt these small-diameter sleeves?


I don't have any XTC sleeving yet(I have not ordered any), I can not say for sure the melting process will become small enough to fit inside a connector. I used 2mm DarkSide sleeving for this.

You can fit 3mm heatshrink over the sleeving, Which can be bought from Darkside directly(Dazmode) or from Modmymods.

I have yet to find store that sells cable combs for fans. I know they exist since ensourced has them but for some reason will not sell them by them selves like they do with all the other combs and clips they sell. It's why I went with single sleeve style fan cable for three/four wire style.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> It will be difficult to source white connectors through a modding shop, but suppliers like RS Components offer these connectors in multiple piece packs at low prices. The only source of white inline SATA connectors I know of. however, is ModDIY.
> 
> Usually they are white or transparent, but they take a dye like Jacquard Idye Poly very easily (often within a minute if the dye bath is very concentrated).


I already have the connectors, Not many places actually sell these connectors. The connectors are for my lighting. I bought a bunch to test different methods. There only made by JST However with that said Darkside has managed to color theirs to Black from White. Just not sure how they colored theirs.

I could maybe rig something up using Molex SL series, Since that series has allot of different type of connectors. I would have to double check to make sure voltage is the same & would support my lighting setup.

I'm going try these first, if they fail I would move onto to the dyes that everyone suggested, I will grab the dyes with the paint so I don't have to create two orders.

Rust-Oleum 211338 Paint
Performix 11203 Plasti Dip Black



Going from top to bottom

Molex SL -> Molex C-Grid III -> Harwin M20

The different dupont terminals. After a bit of testing, Molex may have the superior materials and product. However for some reason they do not lock properly to the pins on USB devices like Aqua-Computer pump & such. They fall out very easily if bumped or with enough vibrations. I found Harwin locked allot better and they remain locked even with bumping them or vibrations.

If your going to make your own cables I suggest sticking with the "Normal" Dupont terminals that 90% of companies use and go with Harwin terminals. They are also much cheaper then molex too. I got 200 terminals Gold plated terminals for about 8 dollars from mouser. Where Molex gold plated terminals start at around 14 dollars for 100 gold plated terminals (lease amount of gold). They go all the way up to 20 dollars for SL series.

If you want to go with Molex The C-Grid III is the series you want to go with. The SL series is designed for higher current which will never be used with PC parts.

One side note, Harwin does not make any kind of male version of the dupont terminal. You have to grab JMT terminal if you want male Dupont or Molex SL. C-Grid III from what I looked at do not have a male counterpart.

*on a personal side note * I sometimes do wish I could replace the default pcb connectors on my motherboard & other products with Molex version. Since Molex PCB have locks built into there PCB's. It's not worth the risk of damaging the motherboard to replace the PCB connectors.


----------



## Modpcru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I have yet to find store that sells cable combs for fans


The first attempt to made custom metallic cable holders. Waiting for painting. There is no problem for fan cable combs on the lazer machine


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modpcru*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I have yet to find store that sells cable combs for fans
> 
> 
> 
> The first attempt to made custom metallic cable holders. Waiting for painting. There is no problem for fan cable combs on the lazer machine
Click to expand...

Aww, that's not cheating fair.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modpcru*
> 
> The first attempt to made custom metallic cable holders. Waiting for painting. There is no problem for fan cable combs on the lazer machine


Impressive!

Something I've always wanted to try, but just don't have the room for, nor am I located within reasonable distance of one I might rent. Though I can do artwork all day long, I have to farm out production to others.


----------



## Modpcru

Soon be the result...


----------



## lowfat

Is that a plasma cutter?


----------



## Modpcru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Is that a plasma cutter?


As i wrote - laser cutter. There is the result:



That's look really great! Add there all possible colors and your PC will be unique! Soon we're will try to use the 2 mm steel with more forms of cable holders. "Please stand by"


----------



## lowfat

What kind of wattage is the laser? I've never seen a laser cutter w/ that kind of mechanics before and the laser toolhead is massive. Most be ridiculously high powered to cut aluminum in a single pass that quick.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modpcru*
> 
> The first attempt to made custom metallic cable holders. Waiting for painting. There is no problem for fan cable combs on the lazer machine


Not sure how this is suppose to helps me.







I don't have access to that kind of hardware. Plus I wouldn't want to put metal anywhere near exposed contacts. If I would to make cable combs I would use aluminum or Carbon Fiber, It's just higher grade of materials. I had some Carbon Fiber Cable combs made for my current set of cables. It's were amazingly done & very strong compared to all those acrylic combs out there.




----

If your putting that much work into make these clips/combs, I suggest powder coating them.

Not the best quality but I found Cable-Mods combs work with the type of sleeving (Since there only 2mm with the wiring). I will try my old closed Ice-modz combs later to see if they work. I bought a couple of feet of heatshrink of Sata (MDPC-X) if I need to re-do anything.

On a side note, There is a difference in quality when using MDPC-X heatshrink vs others like MFC. MDPC-X can shrink down & lock onto 3-pin fan connectors. Even heatshrink that has a slightly smaller OD still have a gap between heatshrink & sleeving.


----------



## Modpcru

That's steel. For aluminium you shold use laser with azote. We're also cut 2 mm Al with that laser machine and high pressure azote supply. The power of cutter is ... I don't remember, sorry


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modpcru*
> 
> That's steel. For aluminium you shold use laser with azote. We're also cut 2 mm Al with that laser machine and high pressure azote supply. The power of cutter is ... I don't remember, sorry


Well Steel is made from metal, So technically it's still metal.


----------



## Revan654

These are the combs or wire wraps I was talking about. I havn't been able to find any like these or even 3D blue prints to have printed out with a 3D Printer.


----------



## Revan654

If anyone uses Aliexpress to buy any of there supplies(Connectors, Terminals or even Barrow Fittings). There a massive sale sitewide today only.


----------



## Modpcru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Well Steel is made from metal, So technically it's still metal.


For steel there is no need ta add azote with high pressure. Only air. For aluminium azote is needed.

I understand your joke, but steel is the alloy of iron and carbon. Metall is not the substance. So technically the steel is iron with carbon

Now we can produce the holders almost for everything (like you needed for fan sleeves). Why I'm started the manufacturing of holders- because I'm also can't found custom holders for molex, SATA power, fan etc. And I'm very happy that I can help other people to find that they maybe need


----------



## Modpcru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> If anyone uses Aliexpress to buy any of there supplies(Connectors, Terminals or even Barrow Fittings). There a massive sale sitewide today only.


Yes, I bought. The prices are very good!! Try it. The additional discount is 20% (coupons of Aliexpress and supplier) plus 10% base discount


----------



## Modpcru

Hi there! We made it! Steel cable holders 24 pin (2 mm or ~1/12 inch width):


Cable kit for Corsair RM750 with acrylic cable holders (purchased):


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

I don't like cable combs because they interrupt the smooth line of sleeving but that's my opinion (I also don't like individually sleeved cables but I'm definitely in the minority with that opinion). It doesn't change the fact that your custom made combs look much, much better than the ones on the Corsair cables. Nice job!


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If only! All seriousness aside, I going to be building a "power strip" except, instead of 120v outlets, it will have 16 or 17 SATA power connectors installed as sockets in a Wiremold strip. The strip will run vertically at the back of the 5.25" cage in the case I'm building with one "outlet" for each of the 14 bays plus two or three extra outlets for whatever (I would rather have them and not need them than to need them and not have them). To keep the cable feeding the power strip from showing, it will enter the strip from the PSU enclosure through a hole in the back of the strip and will splice into the wiring around two or three "outlets" (hence the need for the 18th insulation stripping).
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting analog, that power strip. Hypothetically, you could take the industrial approach to power provisioning, something along the lines of what's used in server and other racks, vme backplanes/cages, etc., building in a power bus of sorts. I had considered that myself at one time and still am thinking about using a hybrid solution made out of strips of copper and an insulating strategy that would help keep me from turning into a human glow lamp, if but to be different from the mainstream. It comes with with its own unique safety risks of course which can be mitigated, and while it's not necessarily for the faint of heart, it certainly is feasible.
> 
> Anyway, that's what your power strip brought to mind at this end.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Essentially, the power strip is a power bus. You may have just given me an idea. I'll do a bit of research and number crunching first. Btw, human glow lamp made me chuckle.
Click to expand...

The idea you gave me was to use copper bus bar in the connector slots instead of wire but, after calculating the size of a bus bar I could make and comparing it's ampacity to that of #14 and #12 wire, I found it was close to #14 but came up short compared to #12. Then I tried to find some .028" x 3/16" copper strips and came up with bupkis. I was able to find some brass sheet I could cut down but that would reduce ampacity even further so I just abandoned the idea.

I did come up with the idea to get some .028" feeler gauge stock to stick into the #2 and #4 slots of a SATA power connector so punching down the wire into slots #1, #3, and #5 wouldn't collapse slots #2 and #4, especially when punching down oversized wire. I found some that were 12" long at McMaster.com so I ordered a couple of them. Here, after degreasing them, I have them inserted into the #2 and #4 slots.




I was able to punch down #12 wire (with the insulation stripped off in the area of the connector) in #1 and #5 slots without much trouble. #3, on the other hand, drove me nuts because I couldn't see what I was doing (my old eyes didn't help any, either) and the feeler gauges were in the way of the punch down tool (I'm glad I bought the Molex tool, btw). If I had to do it again (and I pray to God I don't; this subproject was a frustrating beast!), I would punch down #1 and # 5 first, pull the feeler gauges out, put one of the gauges into the #3 slot, punch down #2, and #4, pull the gauge, then punch down #3. Naturally, I couldn't get all the strands of #12 into the slots so the remainder had to just lay across the top of the slot, which was fine for my purposes since I wasn't going to use a cover on each connector (the Wiremold cover served that purpose). Using the feeler strips, I probably could have punched down #14 without having to strip the wires first.

This is the power strip before painting...



...and after painting.



The second hardest part about painting the strip was masking all the connectors so I wouldn't spray paint on them (I used two light coats of Krylon Fusion). The hardest part was getting that tape back off of the connectors.

Since no one makes a straight male connector body yet, I'm going to cheat and just use SATA power extension cables or Y cables and cut off the non-male end to make the jumper cables to go from the power strip to the 5.25" bay devices. I'll probably power the hubs for the bottom intake fans and the top exhaust fans from this strip since the 12v will otherwise be underutilized since I will only be using SSDs-up to eight-instead of HDDs.

I still need to cut a 1/8" x 1" strip of aluminum to go onto the back of the power strip, drill and tap screw holes, then, after painting the strip, use 3M VHB mounting tape to secure the aluminum strip to the back of the power strip so I can use screws to secure the strip to the left side panel of the 5.25" bay (I could tape the power strip directly to the panel but it would be in the way if I ever needed to work on the panel). The wires coming out the back of the power strip will go directly through the 5.25" bay side panel into the PSU enclosure.

I won't sleeve the wires coming out the back until I have the PSU bay and PSU installed in the case and can determine how long the cable needs to be. I'll just use a single sleeve over all five wires (yeah, I know, blasphemy) to keep the wires corralled; it will all be inside the PSU enclosure out of sight anyway.


----------



## Modpcru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> I don't like cable combs because they interrupt the smooth line of sleeving but that's my opinion (I also don't like individually sleeved cables but I'm definitely in the minority with that opinion). It doesn't change the fact that your custom made combs look much, much better than the ones on the Corsair cables. Nice job!


Maybe you the only one who tell the truth and facts! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
There is another work with only one black element - SATA power connector (I couldn't find it in white color):


I did it the same way:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> My Custom Made RGB Cable for farbwerk.
> - The male end is double heatshrinked. 1st layer is adhesive heatshrink, then 2nd layer covers that heatshrink and holds the sleeving in place.


----------



## Revan654

^ ????

Not 100% why you quoted me but nothing was said.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> I don't like cable combs because they interrupt the smooth line of sleeving but that's my opinion (I also don't like individually sleeved cables but I'm definitely in the minority with that opinion). It doesn't change the fact that your custom made combs look much, much better than the ones on the Corsair cables. Nice job!


Yes you are







. Cable Combs can clean up messy wiring, I'm use my Fiber Carbon Cable combs mainly to create a better and tighter arch on my cables.


----------



## msd0

I’m also not a huge fan of cable combs, but one or two strategically placed combs are fine. If too many combs are used, especially on acs, the natural “flow” of the cable is ruined.


----------



## jfro63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P?P?!*
> 
> Check the other cable one by one and see if they are the same. If not maybe just your crimps to make sure they are all seated correctly in the block.


Check for a crimp on insulation, killer every time.


----------



## Revan654

Ordered some XTC MDPC-X to see what the new sleeving is like.



Anyone have any suggestions on reducing the numbers or cables here or cable management? There are all fan extensions from the top radiators. There getting way to bulky and I still need to add a bunch more cables.


----------



## Revan654

Some simple lighting cables for my UV lighting.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Ordered some XTC MDPC-X to see what the new sleeving is like.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions on reducing the numbers or cables here or cable management? There are all fan extensions from the top radiators. There getting way to bulky and I still need to add a bunch more cables.


Can you attach a splitter on the rad and shorten the cables so the fans just run to the splitter on the rad, then you have just the power cable for the splitter to run down there? I've seen that done by singularity in one of their videos.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Can you attach a splitter on the rad and shorten the cables so the fans just run to the splitter on the rad, then you have just the power cable for the splitter to run down there? I've seen that done by singularity in one of their videos.


I tried that, However the issue is that top does not fit properly due to the wiring becomes bulky at the end. Plus the space is limited. If it was inside the the case that would be another story.










^Feeding all the wiring through MDPC-X FP sleeving.

I will also test out heatshrinkless Sleeving again for fan extensions. I don't have much of that type of sleeving left.


----------



## Revan654

For those who need supplies, Mod-One is currently having a sale on most of there supplies, Including the new MDPC-X XTC Sleeving.

They also have started to carry 22 AWG wiring, it's 0.19 per ft, unsure of the OD. Since it's not listed.





a small look at new XTC Sleeving from MDPC-X.

MDPC-X XTC -> MDPC-X Classic -> Bitspower -> DarkSide


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions on reducing the numbers or cables here or cable management? There are all fan extensions from the top radiators. There getting way to bulky and I still need to add a bunch more cables.


Place the splitter at closer to the fans (someone suggested that). Also, place your splitter so that the cables run straight into the splitter ... so if your fans are on the top, place the splitter on the back of the front panel so that the cables run from the fans, along the top of your case and straight into the splitter. No bump up required.


----------



## Revan654

Original







Dyed



Dye vs Molex Black



Dye vs MDPC-X Black (ReColor)


----------



## tiefox

Guys. I got 9 Phanteks Halos to put on my fans, but the connector that comes with it is not compatible with the motherboard rgb pins or with the aquacomputer farbwerk . Does anyone knows where I can get this type o connector to make my own adapters?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tiefox*
> 
> Guys. I got 9 Phanteks Halos to put on my fans, but the connector that comes with it is not compatible with the motherboard rgb pins or with the aquacomputer farbwerk . Does anyone knows where I can get this type o connector to make my own adapters?
> 
> -snip-


There SM connectors made by JST.

Link: http://www.jst-mfg.com/product/detail_e.php?series=238

Where to Buy

Pin: https://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=244550251&uq=636474013714956608
Socket: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/SHF-001T-0.8BS/455-1121-1-ND/527350

Male Housing: http://www.newark.com/jst-japan-solderless-terminals/smr-04v-n/wire-to-board-connector-receptacle/dp/69C4946
Female Housing: http://www.newark.com/jst-japan-solderless-terminals/smp-04v-nc/connector-housing-plug-4-position/dp/69C4942

I made my own RGB Cable using that type of connector: http://www.overclock.net/t/662039/cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion/14400#post_26431893

If you don't want to build your own cable, DarkSide makes some short Pre-made Cables.

AquaComputer: https://dazmode.com/store/product/darkside-to-farbwek-rgb-led-adapter-cable/
Asus: https://dazmode.com/store/product/darkside-to-asus-aura-rgb-led-adapter-cable/


----------



## tiefox

Thanks a lot, I just found some for sale in amazon.de and ordered from there, I will be making my own


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tiefox*
> 
> Thanks a lot, I just found some for sale in amazon.de and ordered from there, I will be making my own


You still need additional connector at the other end. Since none of the SM connectors will connect to RGB headers. I used two different series when creating my own RGB cable.


----------



## tiefox

yep, im aware...I ordered this

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01DA97YYW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0716JMHNJ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tiefox*
> 
> yep, im aware...I ordered this
> 
> https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01DA97YYW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> and this
> 
> https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0716JMHNJ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Spox Series will also work if you do not want that bulky housing.


----------



## Modpcru

Hi guys! I've made this PWM cable extension with 2 mm sleve! That's look pretty good!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modpcru*
> 
> Hi guys! I've made this PWM cable extension with 2 mm sleve! That's look pretty good!


Welcome to the Club









I created a few awhile back: http://www.overclock.net/t/662039/cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion/13680#post_25997375.

I also made some Paracord versions, It's one few times I prefer Paracord over PET sleeving. Which creates a much thinner look and bends a bit easier. This was mainly due to the fact I had to run over a dozen cables through the one spot and and reduced size is a plus for me.

Which Sleeving Brand did you use and what Wiring did you use (OD Mainly)? Just curious what other people's method is when doing this style of sleeving with there fans.

Both Bitspower (They make a 2mm and a 1.5mm version) and DarkSide (2mm) both work great. 1.5 is easier to do but I like the look of DarkSide sleeving over Bitspower.

One side note, from when I was creating mine. if the melted sleeving is to large, there will be a slight imprint on the side of the fan connectors. You can also use a crimper to reduce the metled bulge on the terminal which will reduce the size a bit and will fit perfectly inside the connector. Just be careful not to over crimp which will result in the terminal falling off or cutting into the wire.

Btw, you cam also do dupont in the same way, It's just a bit trickier.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> For those who need supplies, Mod-One is currently having a sale on most of there supplies, Including the new MDPC-X XTC Sleeving.
> 
> They also have started to carry 22 AWG wiring, it's 0.19 per ft, unsure of the OD. Since it's not listed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a small look at new XTC Sleeving from MDPC-X.
> 
> MDPC-X XTC -> MDPC-X Classic -> Bitspower -> DarkSide


So what's your opinion on the XTC vs the regular small size sleeving? Judging by the weave (angle) it looks like the XTC would require less stretching (lengthwise).


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> So what's your opinion on the XTC vs the regular small size sleeving? Judging by the weave (angle) it looks like the XTC would require less stretching (lengthwise).


XTC is very tight Sleeving, it will have issues getting over certain objects(Where Classic would have no issues getting over it). I still prefer the Classic sleeving over XTC.


----------



## SHNS0

I got my first XTC sample last day and while it does look good, in my opinion the more visible weave of the classic MDPC-X sleeve looks better


----------



## username11

For MDPC-X Classic sleeved wires, which hole diameter are you guys using for the cable combs? I am using them the first time on AWG16 wires with 3mm holes in my cable combs. The combs are constricting the sleeves a little bit which doesn't look nice. I tried stretching the sleeve as much as possible but they are a little flat / oval-shaped and are still bigger then the AWG16 wire.


----------



## SHNS0

4mm if you buy them around. If you make them yourself or have them made with a cnc miller/laser, I find 3.8mm to be perfect


----------



## username11

Thanks, I will go for 3.8mm then


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *username11*
> 
> For MDPC-X Classic sleeved wires, which hole diameter are you guys using for the cable combs? I am using them the first time on AWG16 wires with 3mm holes in my cable combs. The combs are constricting the sleeves a little bit which doesn't look nice. I tried stretching the sleeve as much as possible but they are a little flat / oval-shaped and are still bigger then the AWG16 wire.


Allot is based off the actual wiring, For example the wiring I use has an OD of 2.5mm. I wouldn't go over 2.5mm wiring since it will be difficult to get the wire inside the combs (Open or closed). 90% of CableCombs are designed for 3 to 4mm.


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *username11*
> 
> Thanks, I will go for 3.8mm then


Give it a test first of course. The .1 mm differences depend a lot on the overall thickness of the wire you use and how loose or tight you want them.


----------



## username11

Thanks for the help. Currently I use the 2mm OD mod one wire but I don't like the loose sleeving. I am not sure if I should do it again with 2.4mm OD wires. Paracord was easier to stretch fitting the 2mm wire. I like a tight sleeving and in my opinion the 2mm wire looks a little too loose in the MDPC-X Classic sleeve.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Besides looking sloppier and bulkier than tightly stretched sleeving, loosely sleeved wire doesn't "train" as well.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Besides looking sloppier and bulkier than tightly stretched sleeving, loosely sleeved wire doesn't "train" as well.


Stretching the sleeve makes a big difference. The wire becomes much stiffer and will hold it's shape like a solid core wire.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Besides looking sloppier and bulkier than tightly stretched sleeving, loosely sleeved wire doesn't "train" as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Stretching the sleeve makes a big difference. The wire becomes much stiffer and will hold it's shape like a solid core wire.
Click to expand...

Uh...that's pretty much what I said.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Uh...that's pretty much what I said.


Yeah and I agree


----------



## ruffhi

msd0 was man-splaning.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *username11*
> 
> Thanks for the help. Currently I use the 2mm OD mod one wire but I don't like the loose sleeving. I am not sure if I should do it again with 2.4mm OD wires. Paracord was easier to stretch fitting the 2mm wire. I like a tight sleeving and in my opinion the 2mm wire looks a little too loose in the MDPC-X Classic sleeve.


Paracord is a nightmare to deal with(Still Havn't found a proper needle for Paracord 95). I personally prefer using 2.5mm OD wiring it gives a much thicker look.



This is what my cables looked like when they were finished. Also used 2.5 OD wiring for Sata & Molex.


----------



## Modpcru

Hi there! The new "White active balance" co-project with Yolenzo with Nanoxia holders:





More photo:
https://pcpartpicker.com/b/YWBbt6


----------



## Revan654

I thinking of grabbing some of these cablecombs and drill them to the plates I have.




There allot more functional then those plastic clips I have.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Now there's an idea!


----------



## iamjanco

They do look well made.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> They do look well made.


The one is Aluminum and rest are acrylic, I know MainFramecustoms used them for one of there personal builds, it's in there gallery. I'm surprised MNPCTech hasn't tried anything like this yet. The Open version seems like it will be the best suited. Since you don't have to remove the connectors to feed the wiring through.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> ...The Open version seems like it will be the best suited. Since you don't have to remove the connectors to feed the wiring through.


Good point, not to mention it will also allow the cable to rest flush with the surface.


----------



## msd0

Anyone know what the thru holes on the face are for?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> 
> Anyone know what the thru holes on the face are for?


Some Photos don't have them. It could be just a Secondary way to attach the combs or how they drill/make these.


----------



## HardcoreWL

Hey, guys, I love the look of custom made psu cables. I'm looking to do custom cables for my EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 G2. I have a few questions...First, is it even possible to do custom cables for this PSU? Second, What AWG wire should I get to make cables for my 24pin MB cable and then 2x 6+2 cables for my gpu? Third, where do I go to get the supplies? Could I just get a crimping tool and wire from a hardware store? And lastly, Would it just be possible to reuse my current gpu cables/wires and custom sleeve them? Thanks in advance for any help!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardcoreWL*
> 
> Hey, guys, I love the look of custom made psu cables. I'm looking to do custom cables for my EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 G2. I have a few questions...First, is it even possible to do custom cables for this PSU? Second, What AWG wire should I get to make cables for my 24pin MB cable and then 2x 6+2 cables for my gpu? Third, where do I go to get the supplies? Could I just get a crimping tool and wire from a hardware store? And lastly, Would it just be possible to reuse my current gpu cables/wires and custom sleeve them? Thanks in advance for any help!


1. Why wouldn't it be possible for the PSU? it's a modular PSU after all.
2. I always use 16 AWG, your Molex Sata you can use 18 AWG if you wish but you can use 16 AWG on that too. All my PSU are 16 AWG.
3. Mod-One.com is best place to obtain everything. As for the crimper from a hardware store, No those crimpers are different, allot of those crimpers are missing key features like the teeth needed to make a proper crimp.
4. Yes, you will need to un-pin all the terminals from the cables and strip away all the sleeving they use.


----------



## HardcoreWL

Thank you so much. +rep


----------



## KCDC

Hey there everyone, I was wondering what methods are suggested to get my cables perfectly straight. It's a cablemod set and some of my gpu cables have little bends and curves in them, not perfectly straight and it's messing with my OCD. I'm using cable combs which helps, but not completely. I plan on doing my own set with my next build, but for now I'm using a cablemod kit.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Hey there everyone, I was wondering what methods are suggested to get my cables perfectly straight. It's a cablemod set and some of my gpu cables have little bends and curves in them, not perfectly straight and it's messing with my OCD. I'm using cable combs which helps, but not completely. I plan on doing my own set with my next build, but for now I'm using a cablemod kit.


CableMod wiring is very flexible, It's bit on the softer side then most PVC wiring. Not sure your going to get 100% straight due to the flex the wiring has.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> CableMod wiring is very flexible, It's bit on the softer side then most PVC wiring. Not sure your going to get 100% straight due to the flex the wiring has.


Dang, ok thanks!


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Hey there everyone, I was wondering what methods are suggested to get my cables perfectly straight. It's a cablemod set and some of my gpu cables have little bends and curves in them, not perfectly straight and it's messing with my OCD. I'm using cable combs which helps, but not completely. I plan on doing my own set with my next build, but for now I'm using a cablemod kit.


You can sculpt plastic sleeved cables with a fair degree of precision by threading 0.3mm nylon beading wire through the strands of the braiding with a needle.

It is surprising how few stitches are required to make a cable rigid.

They can be free standing, such as when connecting to a graphics card up through a PSU cover, or pinned in a variety of ways to the motherboard backplane.

You can even use clear plastic sheet within a twin layered cable to produce shapes without any apparent support.

The key to all these methods is being able to cut and crimp the wire after the cable has been shaped while still preserving the tautness in the sleeve.

If you look in my two Avari rigs there are some examples.


----------



## Revan654

Paracord Heatshrinkless Fan cables, I have to wait to until I can dye the male connectors before I can connect them. It's currently 0 degrees outside, so I'm not going even try to dye the connectors.


























After Some Testing I was finally able to get SL connectors inside the Housing. There a bit of a burn on the outside of the paracord, that's fine since this was only the testing cable. PET sleeving so far can't be done with SL Connectors or any other dupont connectors. Since the Sleeving OD is to large.


----------



## Revan654

New CableMod USB 3.0 Extension Cable:


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> New CableMod USB 3.0 Extension Cable:


Those look pretty good with molded connectors. Do you have a link? Didn't see them on their site.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Those look pretty good with molded connectors. Do you have a link? Didn't see them on their site.


They havn't been "Officially" announced yet. You will not see them on the site yet.


----------



## Revan654

I was finally able to get them into the SL connectors after allot of testing yesterday.


----------



## AlexNiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I was finally able to get them into the SL connectors after allot of testing yesterday.


Good result!
You will use these connectors for fan cables? SL Connectors compatible with KK


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> Good result!
> You will use these connectors for fan cables? SL Connectors compatible with KK


Should only be using the one version of SL (The one with the ramp and wings). Wish I could find Dupont connectors / Signal connectors with larger openings that are compatible with Motherboard USB. Most are to larger or to small. KK254 does have a higher voltage, Not like fans would ever come close to that.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNiko*
> 
> Good result!
> You will use these connectors for fan cables? SL Connectors compatible with KK


This is very difficult and not worth all the time that is required. In the end it's not worth doing since it has to be tiny melt process but enough to hold the sleeving which is the hard part. Plus you need to be careful not to damage the terminal and wiring since allot smaller OD is needed. In the end heatshrink it's allot easier and faster.


----------



## Craigk19

How hard are fan to do? kind of want to do what singularity computers does on his fans to keep cables to a minimum and look nicer on the back side. looks like i need to get some 22 gauge wire and connectors from Mod-One i dont know if my crimps will go that small is my own fear i have the one from Mainframe Customs


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> How hard are fan to do? kind of want to do what singularity computers does on his fans to keep cables to a minimum and look nicer on the back side. looks like i need to get some 22 gauge wire and connectors from Mod-One i dont know if my crimps will go that small is my own fear i have the one from Mainframe Customs


Are you talking Single Sleeved Fan Cables or just normal Fan Crimping? MFC crimper can do fan cables just fine.


----------



## Revan654

I've managed to do Dupont/USB terminal & housing easier. I dropped the guage down to 26 AWG which makes it's much easier to get sleeving and wiring inside the connector.


----------



## Craigk19

Mine is i want to make the current fan cables shorter then make extensions to my fan hub which will all be different lengths then one from that to a single pwm header on the MB should be 6 120mm fans on one hub total. and okay ill start getting the stuff i need from mod-one than thanks Revan654


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> Mine is i want to make the current fan cables shorter then make extensions to my fan hub which will all be different lengths then one from that to a single pwm header on the MB should be 6 120mm fans on one hub total. and okay ill start getting the stuff i need from mod-one than thanks Revan654


You might want to check out Mouser for the terminals instead, there cheaper then Mod-One and Molex Brand. You can get entire reel for 3 dollars (tin) and 9 dollars for Gold plated.

Reel = 100 terminals.

Tin: http://www.mouser.com/access/?pn=08500113&sn=molex
Gold: https://www.mouser.com/productdetail/538-08-55-0101-ct


----------



## Craigk19

this site is slight hard to figure out how to place an order but i think i got it. Do they also Offer the male ends as well?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> this site is slight hard to figure out how to place an order but i think i got it. Do they also Offer the male ends as well?


They just updated the site.

They do, It's named differently:

Link: https://www.mouser.com/productdetail/molex/08-70-0102-cut-strip?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs%252bGHln7q6pm9GxvoJjaRgt4dePj6vumjz5o39FhkaYkA%3D%3D


----------



## Modpcru

Hi there! I wish you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
Some days ago I sleeved PSU. That was very interesting:


----------



## HardcoreWL

What diameter should my wire+insulation be? Right now I have 2.5mm thick 16awg wire+insulation. I just got all my sleeving supplies in the mail today, but should I look into getting thinner wire before I go to town? Thanks.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardcoreWL*
> 
> What diameter should my wire+insulation be? Right now I have 2.5mm thick 16awg wire+insulation. I just got all my sleeving supplies in the mail today, but should I look into getting thinner wire before I go to town? Thanks.


2.5mm diameter wire is a good size.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardcoreWL*
> 
> What diameter should my wire+insulation be? Right now I have 2.5mm thick 16awg wire+insulation. I just got all my sleeving supplies in the mail today, but should I look into getting thinner wire before I go to town? Thanks.


2.5mm is perfectly fine, you don't want to thin of a wire.2.5 is around the same size I use plus it makes training the wire much easier.


----------



## HardcoreWL

One more question (for now anyway)...The 16awg wire I have is just a standard electrical wire from a hardware store. It's rated to 60v, so will this work for making my own PSU cables? My PSU has a single 12v rail. Thanks again!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardcoreWL*
> 
> One more question (for now anyway)...The 16awg wire I have is just a standard electrical wire from a hardware store. It's rated to 60v, so will this work for making my own PSU cables? My PSU has a single 12v rail. Thanks again!


It's on the low side when it comes to the voltage. I can't say for sure, without testing the voltage coming out of each wire. It might be ok but I wouldn't use 60v wiring. There are other things to take into account like drops. PSU defaults cables use 300v wiring. I would look at the AWM style your wiring uses and check up on data for the wire to see if it can manage the PSU.

Most wiring for PSU uses AWM Style 1061 | AWM Style 10002.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardcoreWL*
> 
> One more question (for now anyway)...The 16awg wire I have is just a standard electrical wire from a hardware store. It's rated to 60v, so will this work for making my own PSU cables? My PSU has a single 12v rail. Thanks again!


Was that 60v or 600v? If 60v, it will be fine (so would 600v, obviously). The highest voltage you will ever encounter will be 12v. However, if the wire is what I think it is (THHN, THWN, THHN/THWN, or similar insulation), it will be stiff and springy, making it hard to train your cables. also, the larger strand size may make crimping on pins a bit more challenging


----------



## HardcoreWL

I ended up buying a bunch of the M1 Custom 2.4mm OD 16AWG wire from mod-one. All my sleeving supplies should be here by Saturday! I can't wait to start this project. I've heard people say to test your cables before you plug them into your hardware. How does one go about doing this? I have a digital multimeter, and I'm assuming that will be needed, but is there a guide somewhere on how to test your finished cables? Thanks again!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardcoreWL*
> 
> I ended up buying a bunch of the M1 Custom 2.4mm OD 16AWG wire from mod-one. All my sleeving supplies should be here by Saturday! I can't wait to start this project. I've heard people say to test your cables before you plug them into your hardware. How does one go about doing this? I have a digital multimeter, and I'm assuming that will be needed, but is there a guide somewhere on how to test your finished cables? Thanks again!


Multimeter for testing the voltage.
PSU Tester once cable is finished, ThermalTake is the only company I've seen that makes a PSU tester for 6-pin GPU cable.
Link: http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00001777


----------



## HardcoreWL

Is it completely necessary to test my PSU. Everything should be fine if the cables are fine right?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardcoreWL*
> 
> Is it completely necessary to test my PSU. Everything should be fine if the cables are fine right?


PSU should be fine out of the box, every so often something can happen. Some PSU have 10 year warranty's. If you want to quickly test the PSU. attach the jumper to ATX default cable and plug in some molex device that will work without the need of motherboard on windows software.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardcoreWL*
> 
> Is it completely necessary to test my PSU. Everything should be fine if the cables are fine right?


Inverting two wires when building or sleeving a cable is very easy. If this happens, at best you will have a very difficult problem to diagnose when you put the bad cable in your system, at worse you may have a blown component or even a fire. The best practice is to check each cable with a multimeter, and the whole set with a PSU tester. A tester is not expensive at all, using it will require 5 minutes, and it provides insurance against possible mistakes.


----------



## Modpcru

Happy new year!

Soon I'll get the CTX3 by MDPC-X and make some compare with the original crimper by Molex:


And now some works:


----------



## HardcoreWL

Almost ready to get started on my custom cables!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modpcru*
> 
> Happy new year!
> 
> Soon I'll get the CTX3 by MDPC-X and make some compare with the original crimper by Molex:


CTX3 bites the wire where the Molex tool creates a circle around the wire. Molex version is the best way since it's less likely to damage the wire and the strands. Not everyone can afford the molex tool and it's limited to Mini Fit Jr. terminals(Your looking at 1000+ in tools if you want all the hand tools for all PC terminals). Where CTX3 supports all Molex terminals down to 2mm (Below 2mm like the pico terminals you will need PA-09 or PAD-01 since the dies are to large and will damage the terminal).



^Crimped with CTX3 and using my Flame-less burning tool for MDPC-X sleeving. Takes less then 20 second for each side to melt.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardcoreWL*
> 
> 
> Almost ready to get started on my custom cables!


Make sure your Crimping tool has teeth, not sure what crimping tool that is. Without the teeth it's not going to crimp that well or possible damage the terminals.

Example of the Teeth(The last Photo is crimper similar to yours):





Don't forget you need a soldering Iron as well or a way to double crimp to create the double wires. Not sure if that crimper has a wide enough gap to to do that.


----------



## Modpcru

I agree with every word! Molex is very-very good! Maybe the best for Mini Fit Jr! For Dupont/Fan. yes, you need other tool (photo is from the post of russian overclockers forum by Alex Niko):


But I'm also interesting in comparation of CTX3 with other SN-28B (I have 4 version of them). Wait it for delivery with samples of sleeve and pins of MDPC-X from Nils

And today I made my first cable set with Molex tool:


Yeah! That was great experience!

And the sleeve of the led light power cord:


----------



## HardcoreWL

Alright I must be doing something wrong because I cannot for the life of me do the whole heatshrinkless method. And even if i could, I don't see how I'm going to for the wire and sleeving into the connector

I got it to work! Just took a few tries. I was hanging the heat shrink over too far from the sleeve


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardcoreWL*
> 
> Alright I must be doing something wrong because I cannot for the life of me do the whole heatshrinkless method. And even if i could, I don't see how I'm going to for the wire and sleeving into the connector


First your terminals are not being crimped properly. It looks like your crimper doesn't have proper teeth to create the crimp.

It should look like this:




The heatshrink should be slightly below the two prongs and the sleeving should cover the wire wings and very slightly on the conductor.

Then apply heat to each side (Going slightly up and down). Based on the temp anywhere from five to 8 second for each side. Then with your fingers twist the heatshrink & then cut.


----------



## HardcoreWL

Crimps are proper, bro. Contact on all the copper and they aren't going anywhere. It's not like I'm gonna just call it good and plug then into my system without testing them first.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HardcoreWL*
> 
> Alright I must be doing something wrong because I cannot for the life of me do the whole heatshrinkless method. And even if i could, I don't see how I'm going to for the wire and sleeving into the connector
> 
> 
> 
> First your terminals are not being crimped properly. It looks like your crimper doesn't have proper teeth to create the crimp.
> 
> It should look like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The heatshrink should be slightly below the two prongs and the sleeving should cover the wire wings and very slightly on the conductor.
> 
> Then apply heat to each side (Going slightly up and down). Based on the temp anywhere from five to 8 second for each side. Then with your fingers twist the heatshrink & then cut.
Click to expand...

His crimps look just fine. Yours don't look any better.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardcoreWL*
> 
> Alright I must be doing something wrong because I cannot for the life of me do the whole heatshrinkless method. And even if i could, I don't see how I'm going to for the wire and sleeving into the connector
> 
> I got it to work! Just took a few tries. I was hanging the heat shrink over too far from the sleeve


Looks good. If you melt the sleeving a little more, it should be easier to insert into the connector.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good. If you melt the sleeving a little more, it should be easier to insert into the connector.


^ +1. Additionally, there are plenty of tutorials on the web that many find useful and are worth reviewing, especially if new to crimping/sleeving. While Lutro0 is no longer active on the forum, *he made some of the better ones* that are still applicable to this day. Added that for HardcoreWL's benefit.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> His crimps look just fine. Yours don't look any better.


You should get your eyes checked. The crimp has an overbite.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good. If you melt the sleeving a little more, it should be easier to insert into the connector.


You don't want to melt it to much then it will be seen coming out of the connector. What needs to be done is twisting on pinching the heatshrink once the sleeving starts to melt which will decrease the OD the melting process creates.


----------



## iamjanco

Blasts from the past, just in case some missed them:

*Good Crimps and How to Recognize Them*
*Molex Quality Crimping Handbook*
*Why you shouldn't solder crimps*
*10 Netiquette Tips For Online Discussions*

The first three pretty much cover the bases regarding the dos and don'ts with respect to crimps. I tossed the last one in for, well, you know.


----------



## HardcoreWL

Thanks everyone for the input. I'm getting the hang of it now. Here's one end of one of my completed cables


----------



## msd0

I just let the heat shrink form the sleeve. No need to burn your fingers. The melted sleeve in my example is completely hidden by the connector.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardcoreWL*
> 
> Thanks everyone for the input. I'm getting the hang of it now. Here's one end of one of my completed cables


Looks like you got it. It's gets easier (and faster) after you do a couple of cables.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> His crimps look just fine. Yours don't look any better.
> 
> 
> 
> You should get your eyes checked. The crimp has an overbite...
Click to expand...

So what if the crimp has an "overbite"? You are being far too critical (and doing it abrasively, as usual). It still will accomplish the crimp's intended purpose, which is strain relief, not to hold the wire to the pin. That is the job of the conductor crimp.

Your insulation crimp is far too tight and has actually slightly increased the width of the wire at the crimp. Not enough to be a problem but since you are wanting to get technical... I suggest you look at the first two links iamjamco provided to see what good crimps are supposed to look like (btw, that "overbite" you criticized is actually considered acceptable in one of the links).


----------



## Craigk19

Hey Revan654 do you ever do any fan cables? if so how do you go about doing them? i really would like to do my fans for my current build but havent seen any how to video of post of them? Singularity computers has 2 videos on them but they dont show much honestly like how to do anything under the stickers or anything. does any one have some pointers on them?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> So what if the crimp has an "overbite"? You are being far too critical (and doing it abrasively, as usual). It still will accomplish the crimp's intended purpose, which is strain relief, not to hold the wire to the pin. That is the job of the conductor crimp.
> 
> Your insulation crimp is far too tight and has actually slightly increased the width of the wire at the crimp. Not enough to be a problem but since you are wanting to get technical... I suggest you look at the first two links iamjamco provided to see what good crimps are supposed to look like (btw, that "overbite" you criticized is actually considered acceptable in one of the links).


I'm a perfectionist when it comes to these things. Actually my insulation crimp is perfect, Even MDPC-X commented on how good the crimp was.

The OD has not been increased, it's just the angle of the camera.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> Hey Revan654 do you ever do any fan cables? if so how do you go about doing them? i really would like to do my fans for my current build but havent seen any how to video of post of them? Singularity computers has 2 videos on them but they dont show much honestly like how to do anything under the stickers or anything. does any one have some pointers on them?


This is my sleeving job on ML Pro Fans, Tiny modding is required (Removing the plastic Lock).







I also replace stickers with vinyl once done.

and you can do heatshrink like this at the connector side:



With Extensions you can do a few different ways. I just show mine, I needed a much smaller OD which PET sleeving was not offering so I switched to paracord for Fan extensions & USB cables.

Single Sleeved without any Heatshrink:


----------



## Craigk19

i knew you would have some examples! thanks again!


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> So what if the crimp has an "overbite"? You are being far too critical (and doing it abrasively, as usual). It still will accomplish the crimp's intended purpose, which is strain relief, not to hold the wire to the pin. That is the job of the conductor crimp.
> 
> Your insulation crimp is far too tight and has actually slightly increased the width of the wire at the crimp. Not enough to be a problem but since you are wanting to get technical... I suggest you look at the first two links iamjamco provided to see what good crimps are supposed to look like (btw, that "overbite" you criticized is actually considered acceptable in one of the links).
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a perfectionist when it comes to these things. Actually my insulation crimp is perfect, Even MDPC-X commented on how good the crimp was.
> 
> The OD has not been increased, it's just the angle of the camera.
Click to expand...

According to Molex, your crimps are NOT perfect. From the first link in iamjamco's post (#14527):



Your crimp is too tight and has cut the insulation. The purpose of the insulation crimp is to serve as a strain relief to protect the conductor from sharp bends that can work harden from repeated bending and break.

This is further demonstrated in this illustration from the second link in iamjanco's post:



Notice that none of the acceptable crimps pierce the insulation. Also note in Figure 9-18, the wings overlap at the top, same as HardcoreWL's crimp, and is considered a preferred crimp. You owe him an apology!

Also, I said noting about the OD of your crimp being increased. I said it was wider. While it's not enough to be a problem, it still is not a "perfect" crimp.

You know a lot about making and sleeving cables and have passed on a lot of valuable information but you don't know everything there is to know and have passed along some bad information. You need to get off your high horse, pal.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> According to Molex, your crimps are NOT perfect. From the first link in iamjamco's post (#14527):
> 
> 
> 
> Your crimp is too tight and has cut the insulation. The purpose of the insulation crimp is to serve as a strain relief to protect the conductor from sharp bends that can work harden from repeated bending and break.
> 
> This is further demonstrated in this illustration from the second link in iamjanco's post:
> 
> 
> 
> Notice that none of the acceptable crimps pierce the insulation. Also note in Figure 9-18, the wings overlap at the top, same as HardcoreWL's crimp, and is considered a preferred crimp. You owe him an apology!
> 
> Also, I said noting about the OD of your crimp being increased. I said it was wider. While it's not enough to be a problem, it still is not a "perfect" crimp.
> 
> You know a lot about making and sleeving cables and have passed on a lot of valuable information but you don't know everything there is to know and have passed along some bad information. You need to get off your high horse, pal.


Nope, it isn't to tight, your just trying to pick a fight now. MDPC-X knows more then both of us and when they said it was perfect I'll take there word over yours.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardcoreWL*
> 
> Thanks everyone for the input. I'm getting the hang of it now. Here's one end of one of my completed cables


Looking good now









Lighters do take a bit longer to completely melt the sleeving at each side.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> i knew you would have some examples! thanks again!


I'll have more Photos of my Sleeved single sleeved cables soon. Also got a hold of some 3D printed fan cable combs (In case I need them).

Still havn't been able to do Dupont single sleeved properly so I just gave up on it. Couldn't get the sleeving small enough to fit inside the housing, paracord 95 is the smallest they make that would allow wire to be threaded through. I just went ahead and used some Paracord 550 with heatshrink to create a smaller OD cable. I'll post some photos of those cables later too.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Still havn't been able to do Dupont single sleeved properly so I just gave up on it. Couldn't get the sleeving small enough to fit inside the housing, paracord 95 is the smallest they make that would allow wire to be threaded through. I just went ahead and used some Paracord 550 with heatshrink to create a smaller OD cable. I'll post some photos of those cables later too.


That was probably for the best. It really doesn't make much sense to try to sleeve small diameter wire like that by hand, at least not individually. Otherwise, we'd be faced with doing the same thing with the three or four wire ribbon cables typically used with fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Nope, it isn't to tight, your just trying to pick a fight now. MDPC-X knows more then both of us and when they said it was perfect I'll take there word over yours.


I don't think anyone is actually trying to pick a fight with you, Revan; I think it's more a matter of the way you perceive things and how you communicate. The information you share is typically communicated in a highly opinionated fashion (read: subjective, leaning toward your view of the world), and at times, incorrect. That doesn't make you a bad person, nor unknowledgeable/unskilled. It just means that you can be rather crude in your wording when you're trying to get your message across, as well perhaps have difficulty listening to the voices of others.

Nobody is perfect.


----------



## Modpcru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> According to Molex, your crimps are NOT perfect. From the first link in iamjamco's post (#14527):
> 
> 
> 
> Your crimp is too tight and has cut the insulation. The purpose of the insulation crimp is to serve as a strain relief to protect the conductor from sharp bends that can work harden from repeated bending and break.
> 
> This is further demonstrated in this illustration from the second link in iamjanco's post:
> 
> 
> 
> Notice that none of the acceptable crimps pierce the insulation. Also note in Figure 9-18, the wings overlap at the top, same as HardcoreWL's crimp, and is considered a preferred crimp. You owe him an apology!
> 
> Also, I said noting about the OD of your crimp being increased. I said it was wider. While it's not enough to be a problem, it still is not a "perfect" crimp.
> 
> You know a lot about making and sleeving cables and have passed on a lot of valuable information but you don't know everything there is to know and have passed along some bad information. You need to get off your high horse, pal.


Revan654 - I agree with every word of Lady Fitzgerald! Your pins and crimper are not good! Buy a new tool and pins (I did the same way)!

Some photos of SN-28B which I have. The Molex crimper is from other story:





Soon I'll show you the defference in crimping


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> ...MDPC-X knows more then both of us and when they said it was perfect I'll take there word over yours.


I backed up what I've been saying with illustrations from Molex. Are you saying MDPC-X knows more than Molex?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modpcru*
> 
> Buy a new tool and pins (I did the same way)!


You are aware these are crimped from CTX3, The crimps are good.


----------



## Craigk19

I need some more advice please. Here are some shots I have building my 8pin cpu cable and I'm having a hard time getting the 2nd terminal on the same side as the first one. Causing a twist in my sleeving when I add the connectors i can't figure out to make sure they are the same!
Sorry pictures are from my phone


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> I need some more advice please. Here are some shots I have building my 8pin cpu cable and I'm having a hard time getting the 2nd terminal on the same side as the first one. Causing a twist in my sleeving when I add the connectors i can't figure out to make sure they are the same!
> Sorry pictures are from my phone


I half a asleep, if I get this wrong do add more detail on what your trying to do.

- your saying your having problems getting the second connector on? What brand of connector are you using? Is the melted section of the sleeving slightly larger which is creating a hard time to get it into the connector? Also what terminals & crimper are you using?
- If the sleeving is twisting, It sounds like the sleeving was not 100% straight before you started to melt the sleeving or side A was not 1:1 to Side B when crimped.
- You could turn side B terminal 180 degree.

Something like this(Not the best photo) Hopefully it shows whats needed.


----------



## HardcoreWL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> I need some more advice please. Here are some shots I have building my 8pin cpu cable and I'm having a hard time getting the 2nd terminal on the same side as the first one. Causing a twist in my sleeving when I add the connectors i can't figure out to make sure they are the same!


This may help... Start the video around 6:50:


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> I need some more advice please. Here are some shots I have building my 8pin cpu cable and I'm having a hard time getting the 2nd terminal on the same side as the first one. Causing a twist in my sleeving when I add the connectors i can't figure out to make sure they are the same!


I have a small vise (with padded jaws) to hold the wire with the pin in place while the other end is crimped.


----------



## Craigk19

sorry guys this is the issue im having a lot of difficulty with. If they arent the same way i can add the sleeving no problem but when i add the connectors it introduces a slight twist to the wire&sleeving. ill take a picture of what im talking about when i get home. when i run my finger down the wire and im pretty sure im facing the same direction i add the terminal and add the sleeve then find out its about a 1/4 of a turn off on one side and that's the issue im trying to get around


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> I have a small vise (with padded jaws) to hold the wire with the pin in place while the other end is crimped.


you really don't need a vise. When you pre-crimp the terminals and insert onto the wire it should have enough of a lock to not move around. Also take into account where your PSU is at and what direction the connectors will be facing.

For my Case & PSU.
Side A: Straight
Side B: Right moved 90 degree's from the starting position.

It sounds like you can't use 1:1 in straight position. I would rig a small wire with both terminals crimped and do a run from PSU to the CPU to see how you should position the terminals.


----------



## msd0

A vise or clamp is used to help maintain the orientation of the pins to each other while straightening the wire. It’s not perfect though, as there always seems to be some residual twist in the wire. I agree that it might be easier to finish crimping after the cable is routed.


----------



## Himo5

The first Photo in the Avari Gold rig in my signature presents a way of getting to the point where it is possible to exactly fix the correct orientation of each crimp.

The cable is crimped and sleeved at the device end with enough extra length on each wire to allow the cable to be routed, bundled and finally crimped at the PSU end.

The sleeve is tightened and melted over the non-crimped end of each wire so that the tension after routing keeps the sleeve and the insulation in the same orientation.

Using cable combs - or, as I have, the rear parts of old connector housings - you can then fix the exact point where the top of the crimp will be on each wire.

All that is required then is to push a pin through the sleeved wire 6mm back from where the wire and insulation should be cut - giving you the top and bottom of each crimp on the wire.

The 6mm gap is to allow 3mm for the strip and 3mm for the insulation crimp.

msd0's clamping technique comes in useful to clamp the sleeve 10-15mm back on the wire while it is being cut so that the sleeve can then be singed back to the 1-2mm by which the stretched sleeve should be shorter than the cut wire and then for the clamp to be maintained to prevent any slackening down the length of the wire while crimping and melting take place.


----------



## Revan654

Had Some 3D printed Cable Combs done over the weekend designed for Fans 3 & 4-pin.


----------



## Modpcru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Had Some 3D printed Cable Combs done over the weekend designed for Fans 3 & 4-pin.


Do you like it?

We tried to made it for fan cable sleeve for 3/4 pins. Searching for the better result for steel:


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modpcru*
> 
> Do you like it?


They work well, maybe add bit of a curve/bump to your single ones. That way they will not move around and will sit correctly in the comb. Don't forget about the pitch and add that into process when creating the comb.



I can't get single sleeved Dupont into the connector properly and they require allot of work to get the melt section small enough to even try to get them inside the connector. I pretty much gave up on Dupont being single sleeved without heatshrink.


----------



## Modpcru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> They work well, maybe add of a curve to your single ones. That way they will not move around and will sit correctly in the comb.


Waiting for photo of your combs with sleeves
As you can see on my photo- the laser machine has bad cut in 4 pin of 24 pin comb. Maybe a 3D printer is the better way for it


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modpcru*
> 
> Waiting for photo of your combs with sleeves
> As you can see on my photo- the laser machine has bad cut in 4 pin of 24 pin comb. Maybe a 3D printer is the better way for it


Going be awhile since I'm trying to figure out routing and cleaning up all wiring on the back of my case. I use Paracord for my fans since I can reduce the bulkiness that PET has.




Way to many cables. I still have to wire front fans and bottom two radiators.


----------



## Modpcru

One more comparation. The chinese stripper 6-8$ and the Weidmuller Stripax 10 - 60-70$:


Did you see the difference?


----------



## msd0

Looks a lot like the Pressmaster Embla or the Knipex strippers.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modpcru*
> 
> Waiting for photo of your combs with sleeves
> As you can see on my photo- the laser machine has bad cut in 4 pin of 24 pin comb. Maybe a 3D printer is the better way for it


Co2 laser for plastic like acrylic or a cnc mill and aluminium if you want metal combs.. thats the way i produce combs and just curious? what overall diameter is your cables with the sleeving?


----------



## Modpcru

Cables with sleeve- 3 mm
Steel combs are about 3.5 mm


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modpcru*
> 
> Cables with sleeve- 3 mm
> Steel combs are about 3.5 mm


they look cool..only thing id say is why steel! you can have almost any colour in acrylic and aluminium can be anodised and even powder coated too.

still im jealous of that laser,,id be knocking up case's on it tho, not cable combs


----------



## Craigk19

since Icemodz is gone dose anyone have a suggestion for cable combs? i only have 2 of their black 24 pins that are super nice wish i would have bought 5-6 of them. I have enough from all the rest of the cables and can still get some 8 pin and 6 pin ones but just cant find anyone that has any stock left of the 24s


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> since Icemodz is gone dose anyone have a suggestion for cable combs? i only have 2 of their black 24 pins that are super nice wish i would have bought 5-6 of them. I have enough from all the rest of the cables and can still get some 8 pin and 6 pin ones but just cant find anyone that has any stock left of the 24s


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142648509311?
http://www.g-kool-modz.co.uk

not ice mods combs..but nice combs i think lol


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> since Icemodz is gone dose anyone have a suggestion for cable combs? i only have 2 of their black 24 pins that are super nice wish i would have bought 5-6 of them. I have enough from all the rest of the cables and can still get some 8 pin and 6 pin ones but just cant find anyone that has any stock left of the 24s


Mod-One sells them: https://mod-one.com/cable-sleeving/cable-combs/

Ice-modz combs were just branded version of OEM combs.

AlphaCool & MNPCTech CableCombs are very good too.


----------



## Craigk19

mod-one is who i buy all my stuff from mostly and they are out of stock on the 24 pin black closed ones sadly :'( ill look into the other ones mention though thank you

the AlphaCool ones are really nice as well but also hard to find! amazon has them for about 3.75 each might just bite the bullet and get them


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> mod-one is who i buy all my stuff from mostly and they are out of stock on the 24 pin black closed ones sadly :'( ill look into the other ones mention though thank you


They will get more in, It will just take some time.

AlphaCool - Is Aluminum
MNPCTech - Aluminum or Carbon Fiber (These are the combs I use). Some Highest quality combs you can buy.


----------



## Craigk19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> They will get more in, It will just take some time.
> 
> AlphaCool - Is Aluminum
> MNPCTech - Aluminum or Carbon Fiber (These are the combs I use). Some Highest quality combs you can buy.


Icemodz went out of business so I doubt they will get more stock anytime soon. May I ask where you get your alphacool ones from?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> Icemodz went out of business so I doubt they will get more stock anytime soon. May I ask where you get your alphacool ones from?


Like I said Icemodz combs are just brand name like Molex Mini Fit Jr. terminals. Both have OEM versions. I know Mod-One has been working on creating there own for awhile, Just not sure when they will be released.

Here is another store that carries Ice-Modz Combs: https://www.singularitycomputers.com/shop/custom-wiring/choose-cable-combs-2/

So far the only place I've seen carry AlphaCool combs in the US is Modmymods.com. The 24 pin version is currently out of Stock.

MNPCTech: https://mnpctech.com/buy-stealth-cable-combs-for-pcs/24-pin-cable-comb/
Ensource: https://www.ensourced.net/black-3d-printed-wire-wrap/
AlphaCool: https://modmymods.com/cables/cable-management.html?color=607&manufacturer=6&material=75


----------



## Craigk19

Custom length fan cables are a little harder to Do. Than I originally thought almost there though using sp120 corsair fans just have to add the male connector on this end


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> Custom length fan cables are a little harder to Do. Than I originally thought almost there though using sp120 corsair fans just have to add the male connector on this end


why are you using male connectors?

Here are some examples of mine, I also use vinyl to cover them once done.


----------



## Craigk19

if you look at mine i dont have the opening on the back to soder new wires to. It's on the front side under the pcb and im scared to attempt to remove it. and i really dont trust my ability to soder something that small. so my solution was to add a male end then make extensions to the length i need and i have 3m vinyl to cover them up when im done. Just dont have a way to cut a perfect circle yet might break down and buy one off amazon or something.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> if you look at mine i dont have the opening on the back to soder new wires to. It's on the front side under the pcb and im scared to attempt to remove it. and i really dont trust my ability to soder something that small. so my solution was to add a male end then make extensions to the length i need and i have 3m vinyl to cover them up when im done. Just dont have a way to cut a perfect circle yet might break down and buy one off amazon or something.


You could just make fan extensions. Another option would be to solder another wire to the pre-exisitng wire that your fans have.

As long as the solder holds both the contact point and the wire you will be good. (Just be careful it doesn't run to the next slot).

I just used bottle of my coolant to draw a circle and then used a knife to cut.


----------



## Craigk19

i am making fan extensions but they will all look uniform the way im doing it. the soldering another wire on to the pre-existing wires scares me i would have to electrical tape or heat shrink each strand then the whole thing and each one would have one really bulky spot on them. I know they will never be seen but i want to do it right on this first go around ive well over 3500 on this build at this rate what's another 50 a a weekend of time right

im going to try that or something that will let me get those circles or let the wife help with it she is crafty


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> i am making fan extensions but they will all look uniform the way im doing it. the soldering another wire on to the pre-existing wires scares me i would have to electrical tape or heat shrink each strand then the whole thing and each one would have one really bulky spot on them. I know they will never be seen but i want to do it right on this first go around ive well over 3500 on this build at this rate what's another 50 a a weekend of time right
> 
> im going to try that or something that will let me get those circles or let the wife help with it she is crafty


PC fans use 24 to 26 AWG wiring(You can also use thinner wire with solder and OD would be tiny). You could use double crimp method (Laying each exposed wire ontop of one another. When using MDPC-X sleeving you will never see any bulky spot.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> if you look at mine i dont have the opening on the back to soder new wires to. It's on the front side under the pcb and im scared to attempt to remove it. and i really dont trust my ability to soder something that small. so my solution was to add a male end then make extensions to the length i need and i have 3m vinyl to cover them up when im done. Just dont have a way to cut a perfect circle yet might break down and buy one off amazon or something.


You can get a circle punch in different sizes in the scrapbook section of a hobby store. You can also just use an exact knife too.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> You can get a circle punch in different sizes in the scrapbook section of a hobby store. You can also just use an exact knife too.


Just be careful on the one you buy. Some creates holes in the middle.


----------



## Craigk19

Well I got the first step done was actually really easy took about 2 hours. Worth it now I can always just make extensions to any length should work out nicely. Now to have the wife cut out my stickers to replace the corsair ones.


----------



## HardcoreWL

An update on where I am for my vga/pcie cables. It's starting to get easier and easier.


----------



## Craigk19

It really does start to get a lot easier. Looking really good by the way!

Only issue i still have slightly is always getting the dang terminals to face the correct directions. i can get really close but noticed that even that isn't good enough it still introduces a light twist to the over all cable here is an update on my so far.


----------



## HardcoreWL

Pcie cables tested and installed!


----------



## Craigk19

that looks really good now you gotta do that 24 to make it match!


----------



## HardcoreWL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> that looks really good now you gotta do that 24 to make it match!


Thanks, man! That's next on the list. I think I'm going to need a few more supplies before I can make it, though


----------



## Craigk19

I just placed my 4th order with Mod-One always think i have enough and then realize im gonna be short the close i get to being done! just placed an order tonight for heat-shrink alone :'(


----------



## HardcoreWL

Are anyone else's photos not showing from posts/replies that happened prior to the new website?


----------



## AlexNiko

HardcoreWL said:


> Are anyone else's photos not showing from posts/replies that happened prior to the new website?


New site - new problems.. 
I also do not see images - that's sad. I hope this will be fixed.


----------



## Revan654

HardcoreWL said:


> Are anyone else's photos not showing from posts/replies that happened prior to the new website?


The site is a mess, I have no idea why we needed a new forum system when the old one worked perfectly and better.


----------



## iamjanco

It was either move the forum, or kill it off. The web host (ref. *Goodbye, Huddler (Everywhere)*) who was hosting it was getting out of the business, and the platform being used there wasn't movable because of its proprietary SaaS (software as a service) nature.

You can tell by that link I shared above that Huddler's situation has been obvious for some time now.


----------



## Revan654

iamjanco said:


> It was either move the forum, or kill it off. The web host (ref. *Goodbye, Huddler (Everywhere)*) who was hosting it was getting out of the business, and the platform being used there wasn't movable because of its proprietary SaaS (software as a service) nature.
> 
> You can tell by that link I shared above that Huddler's situation has been obvious for some time now.


It feels like the forum went backwards instead of forward. They should atlease tested it before moving to the new host/site.


----------



## iamjanco

Revan654 said:


> It feels like the forum went backwards instead of forward. They should atlease tested it before moving to the new host/site.


Agreed. Like you and a lot of others, I'm not overly impressed myself with how the move was handled. It speaks odes about their priorities.


----------



## msd0

iamjanco said:


> Agreed. Like you and a lot of others, I'm not overly impressed myself with how the move was handled. It speaks odes about their priorities.


I had no idea that it was even changing. Thought it was kind of odd that the site was down for “maintenance” for so long only to finally get back on to see this mess


----------



## msd0

Am I the only one who’s not seeing pics? It’s like years of content just disappeared.


----------



## iamjanco

msd0 said:


> Am I the only one who’s not seeing pics? It’s like years of content just disappeared.


They claim they have the images, they just haven't gotten around to assigning the proper permissions to them for display purposes. I imagine that could mean they want to vet anything posted previously first, but can't be sure about that.


----------



## Himo5

I'm getting images in threads I bookmarked last month, like this one:
http://www.overclock.net/forum/21-b...al-top-30-heaven-benchmark-4-0-scores-92.html


----------



## iamjanco

Himo5 said:


> I'm getting images in threads I bookmarked last month, like this one:
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/21-b...al-top-30-heaven-benchmark-4-0-scores-92.html


Yup, they finally appear to have started hammering away at the missing images yesterday. That said, folks want to check their galleries for any still missing (about 40% of mine still are). You can do that from the the main nav menu bu going to *TOOLS > My Gallery,* then click on the number to the right of *# OF PHOTOS*.

I'm not overly concerned about the missing ones at the moment, as I won't be using many of them (if any) in any build log I put together.


----------



## iamjanco

Lol, just caught the "Last edited by" issue in my post above (Last edited by BrickTop; 08-15-2014 at 10:45 AM.).

BrickTop, eh? More like ChromeDome, but definitely not 2014.


----------



## Revan654

Himo5 said:


> I'm getting images in threads I bookmarked last month, like this one:
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/21-b...al-top-30-heaven-benchmark-4-0-scores-92.html


It's partially fixed now, still allot is missing.

On-going bug list and things planned Thread: http://www.overclock.net/forum/3-ov...ch-list-bugs-errors-request.html#post26579201


----------



## Revan654

Difference between the brands:










Panduit -> Molex -> MDPC-X. 
- Molex has the thinnest walls possible
- Panduit has the blackest. 
- Panduit is higher quality then MDPC-X
- MDPC-X has the best shrinking ratio (4:1) where Panduit and Molex has 2:1.










--------

My LED Cable for UV Lighting(Designed for triple input to two Pin Fan Connector):


----------



## Revan654

- Re-Sleeved some of my Sata data cables with thinner sleeving (Went from Sata Sleeving to FP Sleeving). Also used darker Black Heatshrink.










CableMod Sata Cable one few that come in heatshrinkless. Not sure how good build quality is.










Darkside Sata Cable Sleeved with MDPC-X



















Molex Sata Cable Sleeved with MDPC-X and Panduit heatshrink










Molex vs DarkSide vs CableMod


----------



## Revan654

Craigk19 said:


> since Icemodz is gone dose anyone have a suggestion for cable combs? i only have 2 of their black 24 pins that are super nice wish i would have bought 5-6 of them. I have enough from all the rest of the cables and can still get some 8 pin and 6 pin ones but just cant find anyone that has any stock left of the 24s


There Back In-Stock: https://mod-one.com/icemodz-cable-comb-black-closed-24-pin/

See I told you they would get more in.


----------



## msd0

Revan654 said:


> - Re-Sleeved some of my Sata data cables with thinner sleeving (Went from Sata Sleeving to FP Sleeving). Also used darker Black Heatshrink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CableMod Sata Cable one few that come in heatshrinkless. Not sure how good build quality is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darkside Sata Cable Sleeved with MDPC-X
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Molex Sata Cable Sleeved with MDPC-X and Panduit heatshrink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Molex vs DarkSide vs CableMod


How well does the cablemod sleeving match MDPC-X in person? It looks pretty good in your pic.


----------



## msd0

Revan654 said:


> - Re-Sleeved some of my Sata data cables with thinner sleeving (Went from Sata Sleeving to FP Sleeving). Also used darker Black Heatshrink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CableMod Sata Cable one few that come in heatshrinkless. Not sure how good build quality is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darkside Sata Cable Sleeved with MDPC-X
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Molex Sata Cable Sleeved with MDPC-X and Panduit heatshrink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Molex vs DarkSide vs CableMod


How well does the cablemod sleeving match MDPC-X in person? It looks pretty good in your pic.


----------



## Revan654

msd0 said:


> How well does the cablemod sleeving match MDPC-X in person? It looks pretty good in your pic.


Looking at it I can't really tell the difference. It's possible they used MDPC-X or Something very close to it. It uses 3x3 stitching(Same as MDPC-X Classic). It's not there own Sleeving they use on the sata cables.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Revan654 said:


> Difference between the brands:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Panduit -> Molex -> MDPC-X.
> - Molex has the thinnest walls possible
> - Panduit has the blackest.
> - Panduit is higher quality then MDPC-X
> - MDPC-X has the best shrinking ratio (4:1) where Panduit and Molex has 2:1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------
> 
> My LED Cable for UV Lighting(Designed for triple input to two Pin Fan Connector):


How are you getting your pictures to show up full sized? Mine are showing up as tiny thumbnails embedded in the text.


----------



## Revan654

Lady Fitzgerald said:


> How are you getting your pictures to show up full sized? Mine are showing up as tiny thumbnails embedded in the text.


I'm not doing anything different, I'm Using Large option on Imgur.

or

IMGHERE[/.img]

Just remove the .


----------



## Revan654

If anyone needs anything from CableMod (Which can not be made by hand) it's best time to shop at the store:

- All orders over $150 will receive free shipping
- All orders under $150 will receive a reduced shipping rate of $10 (down from $20)

Still not sure why they charge 20 dollars where Moddiy is close by and they always charge 10 dollars. 

-----

If you place any order in China place them before chinese new years, Where most places are closed down for awhile.


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: What is the best method of removing glue to gain access to the soldiering points? Some companies cover the wires with gel/glue once the wires have been soldered.


----------



## Revan654

Another amazing job from CableMods.  It's like they don't even try or check before sending these cables out.


----------



## HardcoreWL

Revan654 said:


> Another amazing job from CableMods.  It's like they don't even try or check before sending these cables out.


Are there caps on that 24 pin?


----------



## iamjanco

Revan654 said:


> Quick Question: What is the best method of removing glue to gain access to the soldiering points? Some companies cover the wires with gel/glue once the wires have been soldered.


This might be relevant, not sure if it applies in your case: *Removing hot glue*


----------



## Revan654

HardcoreWL said:


> Are there caps on that 24 pin?


Yes, According to them: capacitors are included per Corsair's type 4 design to help smooth out ripple for cleaner power delivery. 

I have no idea if that PSU still uses them or not.

It takes ages for CableMods to change there pin layouts. It took close to five years to update there EVGA pin layout (They just updated or atlease that's what they been saying). I heard the old line before from them two years ago too.


----------



## msd0

Revan654 said:


> Another amazing job from CableMods.  It's like they don't even try or check before sending these cables out.


That’s just ridiculous.


----------



## msd0

Revan654 said:


> Quick Question: What is the best method of removing glue to gain access to the soldiering points? Some companies cover the wires with gel/glue once the wires have been soldered.


Is it a conformal coating?


----------



## iamjanco

msd0 said:


> Is it a conformal coating?


If it is, a solvent like the MEK referenced in the link I provided can be used (or something more readily available which should be tested on a case-by-case basis for effectiveness). Naturally, proper ventilation is paramount. Also see *Coating Removal, Solvent Method*.


----------



## Revan654

iamjanco said:


> If it is, a solvent like the MEK referenced in the link I provided can be used (or something more readily available which should be tested on a case-by-case basis for effectiveness). Naturally, proper ventilation is paramount. Also see *Coating Removal, Solvent Method*.


It's whats used on Corsair fans to seal it. Not 100% sure what it is.


----------



## Revan654

msd0 said:


> That’s just ridiculous.


CableMod is Full of S***. They said they have had zero issues with CableMod Pro series. Not a single issue(There even a thread recently on OCN showing the issue and user talking to Cablemod about the issues he had). This is one reason I don't trust there word, they lie there asses off.


----------



## KCDC

Revan654 said:


> CableMod is Full of S***. They said they have had zero issues with CableMod Pro series. Not a single issue(There even a thread recently on OCN showing the issue and user talking to Cablemod about the issues he had). This is one reason I don't trust there word, they lie there asses off.


Here I was about to pull the trigger on a custom Pro set.

Is Mod-One the way to go, then?


----------



## kidcapp

KCDC said:


> Here I was about to pull the trigger on a custom Pro set.
> 
> Is Mod-One the way to go, then?


Personally, I would go with Mod-One.


----------



## Revan654

KCDC said:


> Here I was about to pull the trigger on a custom Pro set.
> 
> Is Mod-One the way to go, then?


Mod-One or Singularity Computers. Both uses MDPC-X. Plus there handmade unlike CableMod where there machine made.

Singularity Computers does use higher grade of parts then Mod-One(Gold Plated and JMT Connectors).


----------



## KCDC

Revan654 said:


> Mod-One or Singularity Computers. Both uses MDPC-X. Plus there handmade unlike CableMod where there machine made.
> 
> Singularity Computers does use higher grade of parts then Mod-One(Gold Plated and JMT Connectors).



Ah, I forgot about them, thank you!


----------



## Revan654

MainFrameCustoms has finally enter the custom Cable PSU market (They only did extensions before).

PSU Supported Brands: EVGA

Series Supported: G2, G3, P2 & T2

Link: https://mainframecustom.com/product...power-supply-cables/evga-power-supply-cables/


----------



## _Killswitch_

Carbon BTI, and Aquamarine. Oh the fun will begin soon =D lol


----------



## KCDC

Revan654 said:


> MainFrameCustoms has finally enter the custom Cable PSU market (They only did extensions before).
> 
> PSU Supported Brands: EVGA
> 
> Series Supported: G2, G3, P2 & T2
> 
> Link: https://mainframecustom.com/product...power-supply-cables/evga-power-supply-cables/


Sad, no Corsair. Maybe soon.


----------



## Revan654

KCDC said:


> Sad, no Corsair. Maybe soon.


You should went with EVGA  . Corsair has way to many pinouts, it might take them a bit to cover them plus type 4 has capacitors (two different versions for type 4 based on 110v & 220v standards) and they have to deal with that. 

It is Teleios sleeving, Which I any not a fan of since I've ran into to many issues with it. If I was going to get it made by someone else I would go with MDPC-X.

Not sure how they do there terminals I'm guessing same way they do there extensions. Which means they don't melt the sleeving to the terminal. The crimp sleeving to the terminal same way CableMod does. MFC sleeving and materials are better then CableMod.

These are from MFC extension Cables.

https://instagram.***c1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/vp/7c1985c3f067f35a520f399b3b281acd/5B1B744D/t51.2885-15/e35/11378793_1046112212116051_1036441641_n.jpg


----------



## Craigk19

I have access again!! ever since the update until today my account has been banned! and its after i found a fix for what i needed. Im on the last few steps of my build and will be posting pictures coming this weekend.


----------



## Modpcru

Enermax 1250W cable kit, black-red extensions and Corsair's ATX and PCIe cables


----------



## Revan654

First New Color of the Year from MDPC-X.

https://instagram.***c1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/vp/41f060a5e45fbd64625fcbb1e9c99c42/5B0A4227/t51.2885-15/e35/27580406_1779268018773186_4691121825113964544_n.jpg


----------



## iamjanco

Revan654 said:


> First New Color of the Year from MDPC-X.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> https://instagram.***c1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/vp/41f060a5e45fbd64625fcbb1e9c99c42/5B0A4227/t51.2885-15/e35/27580406_1779268018773186_4691121825113964544_n.jpg


Saw that. I'm going to see if I can get a sample of that in xtc size/weave. Would like to know how legible wire numbers will be through it, and whether it would work well with wire 2.0 in diameter (in my case, *16AWG FEP Silver Plated Copper Wire*). I do have some xtc samples I got from Nils that seem to work well with wire that size; which, when sleeved, work out to about 3mm in diameter.

Mod-one offers a *sample pack* which I've previously purchased, but it still doesn't include a piece of this new transparent sleeving in it. Also probably doesn't include the newer xtc sizes. @MOD-ONE


----------



## Revan654

iamjanco said:


> Saw that. I'm going to see if I can get a sample of that in xtc size/weave. Would like to know how legible wire numbers will be through it, and whether it would work well with wire 2.0 in diameter (in my case, *16AWG FEP Silver Plated Copper Wire*). I do have some xtc samples I got from Nils that seem to work well with wire that size; which, when sleeved, work out to about 3mm in diameter.
> 
> Mod-one offers a *sample pack* which I've previously purchased, but it still doesn't include a piece of this new transparent sleeving in it. Also probably doesn't include the newer xtc sizes. @MOD-ONE


XTC works up to 5mm. Classic is better in my opinion.

------

Mod-One wouldn't have the new Sleeving yet since it was announced over the weekend. Mod-One is closed over the weekend. New Sleeving should be added on Monday.


----------



## iamjanco

Revan654 said:


> XTC works up to 5mm. Classic is better in my opinion.
> 
> ------
> 
> Mod-One wouldn't have the new Sleeving yet since it was announced over the weekend. Mod-One is closed over the weekend. New Sleeving should be added on Monday.


Depends on your pov... xtc supposedly has a tighter weave, which some prefer over their other stuff.


----------



## msd0

I’m not sure I get the point of translucent sleeving. Maybe you can get an interesting effect when combined with different wire colors.


----------



## Heatzh

I think you can add some nice details with that cable. Like Nils did with the MDPC sticker. I have to give that a try, looks very cool.


----------



## Revan654

iamjanco said:


> Depends on your pov... xtc supposedly has a tighter weave, which some prefer over their other stuff.


That's why I said in my opinion. Classic just looks betters then XTC. It's allot like teleios sleeving.

I have both and Classic is easier to work with


----------



## Himo5

msd0 said:


> I’m not sure I get the point of translucent sleeving. Maybe you can get an interesting effect when combined with different wire colors.


The best effect would be sleeving built out of sanded fiber optic cable - but the volts required to get a full RGB display from a complete cable set sleeved with it would be huge.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Anyone else notice how the MDPC-X "copper" sleeving looks nothing like copper? I'm sure glad I ordered a sample pack so that I could compare the colours in the real world. Like always I ended up with nothing but tones of grey though.

Still not decided on the patterns, but the colour combo should give a bit of depth to the build over pure black cables:

BLack, Shade19 and Titanium Grey.


----------



## WiSK

Rainmaker91 said:


> Anyone else notice how the MDPC-X "copper" sleeving looks nothing like copper?


It's called "Copper-Brown" and its supposed to be a brown that goes well with copper parts. But I seem to remember it was released at the same time with Vanilla Sands just when Noctua fans starting getting popular (2012?).


----------



## Revan654

Rainmaker91 said:


> Anyone else notice how the MDPC-X "copper" sleeving looks nothing like copper? I'm sure glad I ordered a sample pack so that I could compare the colours in the real world. Like always I ended up with nothing but tones of grey though.
> 
> Still not decided on the patterns, but the colour combo should give a bit of depth to the build over pure black cables:
> 
> BLack, Shade19 and Titanium Grey.


That's not the official name. You could always get white and then dye it to the color you want.

Name: Copper-Brown-Loopy Cable

Product Description: MDPC Copper-Brown Loopy: A beautiful brown shade with the unique copper color touch. "Loopy" has one small loop in a strand every 20-30 meters.


----------



## msd0

Rainmaker91 said:


> Anyone else notice how the MDPC-X "copper" sleeving looks nothing like copper? I'm sure glad I ordered a sample pack so that I could compare the colours in the real world. Like always I ended up with nothing but tones of grey though.
> 
> Still not decided on the patterns, but the colour combo should give a bit of depth to the build over pure black cables:
> 
> BLack, Shade19 and Titanium Grey.


Yeah, getting the sample pack is a good idea. It’s hard to tell the difference between some of the colors in their pictures.


----------



## Revan654

Anyone know where to buy the Shell used on most RGB Cables? I would rather not buy cable and cut them apart just for the shell if I can just get the plastic housing instead.


----------



## unknownmiscrean

Revan654 said:


> Anyone know where to buy the Shell used on most RGB Cables? I would rather not buy cable and cut them apart just for the shell if I can just get the plastic housing instead.
> 
> ~~pic~~


In my experience you are always cheaper buying and cutting up cables compared to buying connectors, housings and cable. Unless there is a special pin out of cable type you require. I actually just used heat shrink over the header on my custom RGB cable.


----------



## Craigk19

final product took a while to get here but im happy with the way it turned out over all


----------



## Revan654

unknownmiscrean said:


> In my experience you are always cheaper buying and cutting up cables compared to buying connectors, housings and cable. Unless there is a special pin out of cable type you require. I actually just used heat shrink over the header on my custom RGB cable.


Sometimes if there on places like Aliexpress you can buy them in bulk for very cheap price. I'll Just grabbed 10 cables for 5 dollars off of Amazon.


----------



## unknownmiscrean

Revan654 said:


> Sometimes if there on places like Aliexpress you can buy them in bulk for very cheap price. I'll Just grabbed 10 cables for 5 dollars off of Amazon.
> 
> pic


Yeah it really depends. If you want a high quality connector or decent guage cable then buying a premade cable is generally a bad idea, as you end up paying for something from the likes of Pexon or something. But if anything will work, finding something for cheap like what you picked up is the best way to go. Might be a little hard to sleeve the tonka toy colors though...


----------



## Revan654

unknownmiscrean said:


> Yeah it really depends. If you want a high quality connector or decent guage cable then buying a premade cable is generally a bad idea, as you end up paying for something from the likes of Pexon or something. But if anything will work, finding something for cheap like what you picked up is the best way to go. Might be a little hard to sleeve the tonka toy colors though...


It depends on the brand, Brands like Inspired LED makes quality products there cables are top notch. It's the wiring and cables found on Ebay and Amazon that are usually cheap.

The wiring can be easily removed, since it's setup like other RGB cables I have. Which is where the housing/cover in the picture came from. If you want to sleeve to the multicolor RGB cable it's very easy, I've done it with MDPC-X Small.

I already made one cable with the extra connector I had, I just don't have anymore.


----------



## jvillaveces

Craigk19 said:


> final product took a while to get here but im happy with the way it turned out over all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Nice work!


----------



## KCDC

Speaking of RGB headers, is there a way to have locking connections? They're so finicky. Would be nice to have 'snap' to the connection.


----------



## Revan654

KCDC said:


> Speaking of RGB headers, is there a way to have locking connections? They're so finicky. Would be nice to have 'snap' to the connection.


Only if your willing to replace the header and re-soldier a new header. There are some deeper RGB Cover/Shells. 

You would need to use the spox header for that:


----------



## Revan654

It seems like MDPC-X Clips are made by hellermanntyton. However there hard to get ahold of in the US. MDPC-X sells Size 2, 6,7 & 8.

Essentra Components Is another company who makes them(There not 1:1 but there very close), There allot easier to get ahold of in the US: https://www.digikey.com/products/en...t=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

I tried the ones from MFC, but there junk compared to MDPC-X. There just plastic not even nylon. Seriously what has happened to MFC over the years? All there parts and materials are below average then what they use to carry.

-------

Order came in for my RGB connectors. Very easy to remove them from the cable.


----------



## Revan654

First RGB Cable 100% Complete, the Y cable is going to be a pain to do (Mainly due to the length, it's very short). I have two idea on how to do it, It's a little more difficult to do since connector and sleeving has to be on the wire while soldering the one side.



































I was able to find to find a Molex quality connector for GPU/PCie. Completely un-water marked.


































There also a traditional GPU/PCie style connector it's slightly water marked.


----------



## jvillaveces

Revan654 said:


> First RGB Cable 100% Complete, the Y cable is going to be a pain to do (Mainly due to the length, it's very short). I have two idea on how to do it, It's a little more difficult to do since connector and sleeving has to be on the wire while soldering the one side.
> 
> I was able to find to find a Molex quality connector for GPU/PCie. Completely un-water marked.
> 
> There also a traditional GPU/PCie style connector it's slightly water marked.


Great job on the RGB cable. Where did you end up sourcing the hood?


----------



## Revan654

jvillaveces said:


> Great job on the RGB cable. Where did you end up sourcing the hood?


Amazon.com. Water-Cool also said If I needed them they would sell them to me.


----------



## _Killswitch_

Edited-Nvm


----------



## Revan654

^ It looks like they look my suggestion and made right angle version.


















^ USB Extension Cables have been released.


----------



## iamjanco

Revan654 said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^ It looks like they look my suggestion and made right angle version.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^ USB Extension Cables have been released.


Who is "they?" Links would be helpful.


----------



## jvillaveces

iamjanco said:


> Who is "they?" Links would be helpful.


I was in the process of asking the same question, and saw in the quoted text that the photos come from cablemod, so I checked their site and found the pictured products. So, “they” is CableMod


----------



## Revan654

iamjanco said:


> Who is "they?" Links would be helpful.


CableMod, Based off the Prototype I posted awhile back.

http://www.overclock.net/forum/26502865-post14489.html


----------



## iamjanco

jvillaveces said:


> I was in the process of asking the same question, and saw in the quoted text that the photos come from cablemod, so I checked their site and found the pictured products. So, “they” is CableMod


Thanks! Even *Kreskin* would be impressed


----------



## Revan654

https://instagram.***c1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/vp/6b87ae462b491c203311a9a02f2d46dc/5B1CCAC5/t51.2885-15/e35/28154553_223061851602747_2365085150984798208_n.jpg
https://instagram.***c1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/vp/29ef866cf393df98c4715ba4a002a0d3/5B10DC09/t51.2885-15/e35/27891210_227855324447340_295402000873422848_n.jpg

New MDPC-X Sleeving color: NV-Carbon


----------



## Revan654

Few things I discovered while trying to figure out a way to lock down Dupont connectors. This only works for Molex SL series and possible C-Grid III.










^ I flipped over the connector (Polarized Friction Lock) and have it lock with Fan connector which makes it allot harder for connector to fall out. Before it was just to loose for my liking.










^ It's a little hard to tell from the photo, Top connector have two small Ribs which create a tight connection inside the header. Bottom one you can use a normal connector which will also give you a tight connection. I also used this method for AQ & PA3 devices ( Rib version ) which creates a very secure connection.

The RGB controller has no way to create a secure connection so you can use any type of connector on that device. Shame it never got a heatsink like AQ6 and PA3 devices.

-----










Blue version - Uses all Quick Disconnects (From Mouser)
Green Version - Uses Quick Disconnects and Dupont terminals(From PPCS).

After months trying to get my first RGB switch to work I finally got it work correctly due AQ6, Still not sure why there RGB controller is Anode and the AQ6 is Cathode. All your RGB strips are Anode. You also don't need a resistors when using the AQ6 since there built in resistors inside the AQ6.


----------



## Revan654

a Quick Look at Sleeving between CableMod and Standard Paracord. There is Zero Wiring in the sleeving.

Top: Paracord 550
Middle: Paracord 95
Bottom: CableMod Flex (Paracord Series)


----------



## Modpcru

Cougar Conquer


----------



## nyk20z3

I currently have a brand new Alphacool D5 pump i am looking to get sleeved. Its not a PWM pump but manually adjusted so there is just the 4 pin molex and a seperate lead wire. The cables are quite long so i am looking to have them cut to about 12'' or so then re pinned and sleeved. If any one is capable of this please PM me so we can discuss it further, ive done a decent amount of sleeving in the past but simple dont have time to dedicate to it anytime soon.


----------



## Revan654

nyk20z3 said:


> I currently have a brand new Alphacool D5 pump i am looking to get sleeved. Its not a PWM pump but manually adjusted so there is just the 4 pin molex and a seperate lead wire. The cables are quite long so i am looking to have them cut to about 12'' or so then re pinned and sleeved. If any one is capable of this please PM me so we can discuss it further, ive done a decent amount of sleeving in the past but simple dont have time to dedicate to it anytime soon.


All you need to do it just the wire to length you want then:

- Strip the wire and crimp it with new Molex pins or ATX (You can plug it directly into your PSU).
- Then decided how you want to sleeve it. You can try to feed the sleeving into the pump which will create a kind of heatshrinkless look (You will have to sand the hole down where the wires come out). or use some adhesive heatshrink to get it to stick to the wires.


----------



## nyk20z3

Revan654 said:


> All you need to do it just the wire to length you want then:
> 
> - Strip the wire and crimp it with new Molex pins or ATX (You can plug it directly into your PSU).
> - Then decided how you want to sleeve it. You can try to feed the sleeving into the pump which will create a kind of heatshrinkless look (You will have to sand the hole down where the wires come out). or use some adhesive heatshrink to get it to stick to the wires.


I know how to go about doing it but don't have the time or desire to lol so that's why some one else will do it for me. If i don't find anywhere here i will just find the services some where else but TY for the feedback.


----------



## Revan654

nyk20z3 said:


> I know how to go about doing it but don't have the time or desire to lol so that's why some one else will do it for me. If i don't find anywhere here i will just find the services some where else but TY for the feedback.


That seems a bit lazy, no offense. By the time you find a service you could have done it your self a few times over.

Contact Mod-One or Performance-pcs. They will sleeve the product for you.

If you just need a simple sleeving job, I'll even do it for you if your willing to pay for shipping(Both ways), time and the supplies. 

I use heatshrink with adhesive, since internal cover can't always be removed, atlease with my pumps it couldn't without massive amount of soldering.


----------



## Revan654

New Products from MDPC-X Store(They are now carrying all Molex Connectors needed for PSU Cable creation). They also got Molex to start making PCie Gen 3 connectors (Will be released in 3 Months). 

Last conversation I had with Molex they said they had no plans for Gen 3 connectors.

One side note, The connectors they carry now are deep black, Before they had a bit of a brown/blueish tint to them(I dyed mine to get Deep Black Color).


----------



## Revan654

Some Sata Cables I've Done with Low Profile PET Sleeving.


































All use 16 AWG 2.5mm OD wiring.

It also seems Molex have phased out the textured connectors and went with basic nylon .  I really like those type of connectors.










Mini Fan Extensions Cable:


















----










Left: MainFrameCustoms - These are beyond Cheap, If I knew they were this cheap I would have never ordered them.
Middle: Panduit - High Quality Nylon, Can withstand outside environment if needed. Mouser sells just about every size.
Right: MDPC-X (aka HellermannTyton) these are hard to find in all the sizes(atlease in the US), other then what MDPC-X sells. Also very high Quality like Panduit.


----------



## jvillaveces

Those SATA cables look nice! How did you sleeve them? what is "Low Profile PET Sleeving"?


----------



## Revan654

jvillaveces said:


> Those SATA cables look nice! How did you sleeve them? what is "Low Profile PET Sleeving"?


2mm or below is what I consider low Profile since it basically it can't moved on it's own once it's on the wire. I used 1.5mm sleeving which Bitpower makes, Which to my knowledge is the smallest sleeving available but also can fit over 16 AWG wiring. I use 2.5mm OD wiring, which can be tricky to get into the sata connector, Since there designed for 18 AWG 2mm wiring.

My Wiring comes from Mod-One and everything else from Mouser(US)

- you have to build the cable in sections, and insert the sleeving before heading to the next connector. Wire has to be pushed down far enough so it will not interfere with the cover or it will not lock or pop-off. I did cut the plastic spikes off in the cover.
- You will have to make small cuts for the sleeving and they must be long enough to get under the covers.
- I use a hot knife to cut the sleeving so the sleeving will not feather or crack over time. My burning tool has a hot knife addon, Which is what I use.
- There all Molex Branded connectors, JMT connectors work a little better since there deeper, However I didn't have enough JMT connectors to cover all my drives.

Connectors: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/538-67926-0012 (This contain are the highest amount of Gold in the gold plated Sata Push Down)
2.5mm Wire: https://mod-one.com/m1-custom-2-4mm-od-black-16awg-25ft/
The tool needed for Push Down: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=3OKVfsn1b5CX1XdFsIO98Q==

When I get a chance I'm going to try MDPC-X sleeving and see how it turns out.


----------



## jvillaveces

Revan654 said:


> 2mm or below is what I consider low Profile since it basically it can't moved on it's own once it's on the wire. I used 1.5mm sleeving which Bitpower makes, Which to my knowledge is the smallest sleeving available but also can fit over 16 AWG wiring. I use 2.5mm OD wiring, which can be tricky to get into the sata connector, Since there designed for 18 AWG 2mm wiring.
> 
> My Wiring comes from Mod-One and everything else from Mouser(US)
> 
> - you have to build the cable in sections, and insert the sleeving before heading to the next connector. Wire has to be pushed down far enough so it will not interfere with the cover or it will not lock or pop-off. I did cut the plastic spikes off in the cover.
> - You will have to make small cuts for the sleeving and they must be long enough to get under the covers.
> - I use a hot knife to cut the sleeving so the sleeving will not feather or crack over time. My burning tool has a hot knife addon, Which is what I use.
> - There all Molex Branded connectors, JMT connectors work a little better since there deeper, However I didn't have enough JMT connectors to cover all my drives.
> 
> Connectors: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/538-67926-0012 (This contain are the highest amount of Gold in the gold plated Sata Push Down)
> 2.5mm Wire: https://mod-one.com/m1-custom-2-4mm-od-black-16awg-25ft/
> The tool needed for Push Down: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=3OKVfsn1b5CX1XdFsIO98Q==
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> When I get a chance I'm going to try MDPC-X sleeving and see how it turns out.


Thank you!


----------



## Revan654

Pretty much done, There only so much I can do with all those wires. There all allot of cables running through this area. If the top was a little bit taller I could have removed 12 fan extension cables.

- Also make sure you test the fans before installing them, One or two of the terminals got crushed inside the connector, which was a easy fix. Since PWM signal kept dying on me.

----










All my main tools I have gathered for Wire creation and Sleeving. I also have PAD-01 from engineer as well. I use PA-09 instead most of them since it's smaller and easier to handle.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Revan654 said:


> Pretty much done, There only so much I can do with all those wires. There all allot of cables running through this area. If the top was a little bit taller I could have removed 12 fan extension cables...


Maybe you could use a panel or shallow box to hide all those cables?


----------



## Revan654

Lady Fitzgerald said:


> Maybe you could use a panel or shallow box to hide all those cables?


The Harddrives will be going in front of that. It will hide the bulk of the cables(Plus this is on the PSu, once the door cage is closed no is going to see it). I can't add more depth to it or the drive cages will not fit correctly(Which is why I been going back and forth about a pedestal). I already had to re-drill new holes since I wasn't expecting the USB cables to stick out as much.


----------



## lowfat

IIRC, I think I've seen someone build their own internal USB 3.0 cables before so they could sleeve them. Anyone have a link to where I can buy the parts for this?


----------



## jvillaveces

lowfat said:


> IIRC, I think I've seen someone build their own internal USB 3.0 cables before so they could sleeve them. Anyone have a link to where I can buy the parts for this?


Moddiy has them for sure. Sometimes PPCS stocks them.


----------



## Himo5

lowfat said:


> IIRC, I think I've seen someone build their own internal USB 3.0 cables before so they could sleeve them. Anyone have a link to where I can buy the parts for this?


If it's any help I'm waiting for final delivery of parts to complete a version of the twin USB 3.0 bundle for internal 2.0 pitch Dupont headers using 10mm Aluminium and Copper adhesive tape for shielded extensions. The biggest job will be stripping 28awg wire to provide the Receive and Transmit drain lines. These 5 line cables are light and flexible and the size that 5 ATX lines would be.


----------



## iamjanco

Himo5 said:


> If it's any help I'm waiting for final delivery of parts to complete a version of the twin USB 3.0 bundle for internal 2.0 pitch Dupont headers using 10mm Aluminium and Copper adhesive tape for shielded extensions. The biggest job will be stripping 28awg wire to provide the Receive and Transmit drain lines. These 5 line cables are light and flexible and the size that 5 ATX lines would be.


Very interesting, first time I've seen this. Is the proposal something you're working on?

What caught my eye at first was the use of "drain" in the attached image, which immediately reminded me of the *electronic–hydraulic analogy* (and FET-speak as well).


----------



## Himo5

iamjanco said:


> Very interesting, first time I've seen this. Is the proposal something you're working on?
> 
> What caught my eye at first was the use of "drain" in the attached image, which immediately reminded me of the *electronic–hydraulic analogy* (and FET-speak as well).


Yes, this is just my own solution to the problem which is troubling so many people (see a recent reddit thread on the subject).

The trouble is that although there are low -profile solutions available, such as this one from MODDIY, many user reviews hint that they may not be capable of USB 3.0 transmission rates, which may be due either to the undifferentiated gauges being used in the 24awg ribbon cable they are made from or to the lack of shielding.

The internal shielding around the data wire pairs in the official cable is conductive on one side but not the other and this is arranged with the non-conductive side facing outwards into the rest of the cable. There is another shield between the cable and the aluminium mesh under the rubber insulation and this has the non-conductive side facing inwards. I have taken this to be nullifying the space between the shielding of each bundle and the outer shielding next to the aluminium mesh, so that, for example, one of the super speed bundles with its shielding only conductive on the inner face would have double faced conductivity shielding if it was outside the rest of the cable.

The drain wires facing the conductive side of the shielding in the super speed bundles must obviously discharge whatever current is being picked up, as should the drain wire in the official cable between the outer shield and the aluminium mesh when using an external USB 3.0 connector, but since I am only building an extension between 19 pin internal headers I have ignored that.


----------



## iamjanco

Himo5 said:


> Yes, this is just my own solution to the problem which is troubling so many people (see a recent reddit thread on the subject).
> 
> The trouble is that although there are low -profile solutions available, such as this one from MODDIY, many user reviews hint that they may not be capable of USB 3.0 transmission rates, which may be due either to the undifferentiated gauges being used in the 24awg ribbon cable they are made from or to the lack of shielding.
> 
> The internal shielding around the data wire pairs in the official cable is conductive on one side but not the other and this is arranged with the non-conductive side facing outwards into the rest of the cable. There is another shield between the cable and the aluminium mesh under the rubber insulation and this has the non-conductive side facing inwards. I have taken this to be nullifying the space between the shielding of each bundle and the outer shielding next to the aluminium mesh, so that, for example, one of the super speed bundles with its shielding only conductive on the inner face would have double faced conductivity shielding if it was outside the rest of the cable.
> 
> The drain wires facing the conductive side of the shielding in the super speed bundles must obviously discharge whatever current is being picked up, as should the drain wire in the official cable between the outer shield and the aluminium mesh when using an external USB 3.0 connector, but since I am only building an extension between 19 pin internal headers I have ignored that.


I'm assuming all drain wires will be grounded at some point at one or both internal connection headers.

You've obviously put a lot of thought into your proposal, nice; and not having to deal with external headers for the time being avoids having to deal with (e.g.) the strain relief related issues experienced by the (e.g.) heavy handed in that reddit thread (which likely contributes highly to the general issue, at least from the perspective of just how robust these connections actually are in a lot of cases).

How will you be testing the results?


----------



## Himo5

There's a gadget called UsbTreeView which can identify which USB ports are enabled for USB 3.0 by placing an S instead of an H next to the blue USB symbol of each port.

However, I will be carrying out full speed tests on a set of video files simultaneously through both ports before making any claims for the cable.


----------



## iamjanco

Himo5 said:


> There's a gadget called UsbTreeView which can identify which USB ports are enabled for USB 3.0 by placing an S instead of an H next to the blue USB symbol of each port.
> 
> However, I will be carrying out full speed tests on a set of video files simultaneously through both ports before making any claims for the cable.


Again, interesting; looking forward to your results!


----------



## Himo5

I'm looking forward to routing these highly flexible cables using a frame hugging, Salvador Dali type cabling style instead of the chunky, built-like-a-tank, belt and braces Compaq style being encouraged by the cable comb makers at the moment.


----------



## lowfat

What are there for 1:1 PSUs these days? I've been using Silverstone for like the last 8 years. I went to look for a replacement for my ST1000G that is dying and they are ridiculously expensive. For some reason they are selling for 100% more than I would expect them to sell for.


----------



## lowfat

After like 14 months I'm finally working on my home server again. 




























All the front side combs are just temporary to help w/ training the cables.


----------



## jvillaveces

lowfat said:


> After like 14 months I'm finally working on my home server again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All the front side combs are just temporary to help w/ training the cables.


Did you make or buy the combs on the back side? They look amazing


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Very impressive!


----------



## lowfat

Yes all the combs & passthroughs were 3d printed by me.


----------



## Modpcru

Last sleeving project:


----------



## lowfat

Has anyone else tried using a hot air rework station for sleeving? So ridiculously more precise than a heat gun. For shrinkless sleeving it works much better than a lighter. Set it to 450C and you don't get all the nasty smoke and the melts are so much more precise. Since I started using one I haven't messed up a single wire.


----------



## iamjanco

lowfat said:


> Has anyone else tried using a hot air rework station for sleeving? So ridiculously more precise than a heat gun. For shrinkless sleeving it works much better than a lighter. Set it to 450C and you don't get all the nasty smoke and the melts are so much more precise. Since I started using one I haven't messed up a single wire.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Which hot air rework station are you using? I've been thinking about getting *this one* for SMD work, which others seem to think is pretty good.


----------



## lowfat

iamjanco said:


> Which hot air rework station are you using? I've been thinking about getting *this one* for SMD work, which others seem to think is pretty good.


That is WAY better than the cheap Chinese one I bought. I don't actually plan to use it for SMD. 

https://www.amazon.com/Kohree-Digit...3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525881480&sr=8-3&keywords=858d


----------



## Barefooter

lowfat said:


> That is WAY better than the cheap Chinese one I bought. I don't actually plan to use it for SMD.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Kohree-Digit...3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525881480&sr=8-3&keywords=858d


I have been using a Dremel Precision Butane Soldering Torch which is superior to the lighter method.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJW08JK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have not used a hot air rework station though so can't compare to that. This torch works great though :thumb:


----------



## lowfat

Barefooter said:


> I have been using a Dremel Precision Butane Soldering Torch which is superior to the lighter method.
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJW08JK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> I have not used a hot air rework station though so can't compare to that. This torch works great though :thumb:


With no flame though, correct? If no flame it would probably work great.


----------



## Barefooter

lowfat said:


> With no flame though, correct? If no flame it would probably work great.


Yes it does have a small flame. When the heat shrink starts bubbling it's just right, I wait 10 seconds and pull the heat shrink off.


----------



## ruffhi

I asked barefoot about two options re sleeving speaker cable in his build thread.

I then ordered 30 feet of Blackest-Black MDPC-X FP Sleeve. The other option that I was looking at was the SATA sleeving.

It came in the mail really quickly (ordered on the 6th, mailed on the 7th, I got it on the 10 - cross country trip).

What I got is flat in style and the flat part measures about 8 to 9 mm across. My expectation was that the FP version would be round in cross section ... just like their normal sleeving but with a bigger diameter.

Did I get STAT sleeving by mistake?


----------



## tCoLL

can anyone tell me what type of pins and connectors I need for a 2 pin bitspower temp sensor? Looking to shorten my cable and sleeve.


----------



## iamjanco

tCoLL said:


> can anyone tell me what type of pins and connectors I need for a 2 pin bitspower temp sensor? Looking to shorten my cable and sleeve.


I believe they're *Dupont connectors*, but I'll let someone else confirm that for sure.


----------



## tCoLL

Is there a guide anywhere on dealing with connectors with 2 wires going into them? Can I join the wires together closer to the PSU or do the 2 wires have to both go all the way to the mobo side? Also is there a guide on what wires I can reorganize and how to do that safely? I have a corsair hxi1000.


----------



## Nick the Slick

tCoLL said:


> Is there a guide anywhere on dealing with connectors with 2 wires going into them? Can I join the wires together closer to the PSU or do the 2 wires have to both go all the way to the mobo side? Also is there a guide on what wires I can reorganize and how to do that safely? I have a corsair hxi1000.


----------



## iamjanco

tCoLL said:


> Is there a guide anywhere on dealing with connectors with 2 wires going into them? Can I join the wires together closer to the PSU or do the 2 wires have to both go all the way to the mobo side? Also is there a guide on what wires I can reorganize and how to do that safely? I have a corsair hxi1000.


It's a temperature sensor (*thermocouple*) that can only be read by a temperature monitoring connection (e.g., like on a motherboard, fan controller, Aquaero, etc.). It doesn't require any power per se, as it generates a small voltage itself based on the temperature it's subjected to and passes that voltage on to the monitoring circuits, which convert that voltage to something that can be read as the actual temperature.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Nick the Slick said:


> https://youtu.be/uXaKt-tiVI0


I hate the video simply because the technique shown for splicing and soldering the two wires is totally wrong (Lutro even admits his soldering skills are less then stellar). All the solder is supposed to do is ensure a good electrical connection, not also make a mechanical connection. The wires should be firmly twisted together and the resulting connection should resist pulling apart before the solder is applied. Another way to mechanically connect the wires before soldering is to crimp them in a sleeve.


----------



## AlexNiko

tCoLL said:


> Is there a guide anywhere on dealing with connectors with 2 wires going into them? Can I join the wires together closer to the PSU or do the 2 wires have to both go all the way to the mobo side? Also is there a guide on what wires I can reorganize and how to do that safely? I have a corsair hxi1000.


http://www.overclock.net/forum/1797...ing-gallery-discussion-1426.html#post26280386
or crimping method as here:
http://www.overclock.net/forum/1797...ing-gallery-discussion-1433.html#post26356968


----------



## tCoLL

Lady Fitzgerald said:


> I hate the video simply because the technique shown for splicing and soldering the two wires is totally wrong (Lutro even admits his soldering skills are less then stellar). All the solder is supposed to do is ensure a good electrical connection, not also make a mechanical connection. The wires should be firmly twisted together and the resulting connection should resist pulling apart before the solder is applied. Another way to mechanically connect the wires before soldering is to crimp them in a sleeve.


Yes, I've seen Daniel's method of crimping them together and then applying solder. Seems much more solid.


----------



## tCoLL

Here's my first go at my 24 pin. Overmelted some sleeving at the terminal on a couple and will redo those. Haven't messed with any of the splits or anything yet either.


----------



## tCoLL

My 24 pin has a empty plug, what's the best way to create a false wire? Do I just not strip the wire and crimp a terminal on?


----------



## tCoLL

Ok, figured out the extra wire for the 24 pin. 

Anyone know of a good tutorial for these fan connectors? Do I have to solder the wire to the end? Should I heatshrink each connection so there's no chance of them touching?

https://mod-one.com/4-pin-fan-pcb-solder-connector-black/


----------



## Himo5

Those fan connectors are for soldering into a single sided 2.54mm pitch PCB (Project Circuit Board) otherwise there is nothing to stop the pins being pulled out of the connector. 


You can cut the PCB down to be just the base of a wire to wire connector but if the PCB is an actual stripboard as opposed to a prototype board you must make sure to cut across the strips to prevent short circuiting the whole fan cable.


----------



## tCoLL

Himo5 said:


> Those fan connectors are for soldering into a single sided 2.54mm pitch PCB (Project Circuit Board) otherwise there is nothing to stop the pins being pulled out of the connector.
> 
> 
> You can cut the PCB down to be just the base of a wire to wire connector but if the PCB is an actual stripboard as opposed to a prototype board you must make sure to cut across the strips to prevent short circuiting the whole fan cable.


That's interesting, the fans I bought came with extensions using these connections (Noiseblocker). I'm mostly using their extensions and just resleeving, but need to make a couple custom ones. These connectors seem to be the same ones used on the noiseblocker extensions. I'm just looking for a tutorial on how to use them. Do I just solder 4 wires onto the individual pins?


----------



## Himo5

That's right, the pins go through the holes in the PCB and you solder your wire both to the pin and the exposed copper patch around each hole. 



In a wire to wire connection you then go through the fiddly task of trying to get the heat shrink to grip on the edge of the connector without interfering with the connection seat. 



One way round this is to fill out the soldering with hot glue or thermoplastic so that the heat shrink has something to make a shape around.


----------



## Jakerz

tCoLL said:


> Ok, figured out the extra wire for the 24 pin.
> 
> Anyone know of a good tutorial for these fan connectors? Do I have to solder the wire to the end? Should I heatshrink each connection so there's no chance of them touching?
> 
> https://mod-one.com/4-pin-fan-pcb-solder-connector-black/


I used the 3 pin version of those to wire all my ELoops together and they worked fine, I did have to pull the pin out of the plastic housing to solder them though, otherwise the housing would just melt, tried as low as my solder iron would go and they still melted to the point it wouldn't retain the pin anymore. I just pulled them out with a pair of needle-nose pliers and they slide back in with some pressure after you have the wire soldered on.

Jake


----------



## lowfat

I also always use those 'PCB mount fan headers' for all my extensions. They aren't so bulky. But yes you need to solder them and definitely pull the pins out of the plastic casing before you solder.


----------



## tCoLL

aquacomputer RGB cables are the perfect size for small mdpc sleeve. I know there are cheaper cables but I liked that these were sheathed, making them nice and round as opposed to a lot of the ribbon rgb cables out there. Does anyone know where I can buy the pins for these cables? I know I can just solder directly onto the strip, but I'd prefer to terminate them and use the connector. If anyone has a link to black connectors too, that would be great.

Also sleeved one of my pumps today. I opened up the back to get the sleeving inside the housing. The sleeving made the cables too wide but the plastic cover actually had another hole that was being covered by the sticker, so I routed one through each hole.


----------



## Deedaz

Is this thread broken for anybody else? Maybe this post will fix it...


----------



## jvillaveces

Sorry for the double post


----------



## jvillaveces

Just a bogus reply so I can (hopefully) see the new page which is otherwise inaccessible because the new OCN is "temperamental"


EDIT: Nope, I still can't see the last page of the thread. Perhaps after a few more posts it will become accessible


----------



## DaaQ

Thread seems fine here, albeit pretty inactive. 
I need to get motivated to get working on my cables.
Although I doubt pictures will get fixed soon.


----------



## Minusorange

Deedaz said:


> Is this thread broken for anybody else? Maybe this post will fix it...


It's the stupid migration of the forum, broke more things than needed actually fixing

If you want to see threads normally you need increase amount of posts per page because apparently default amount = a broke forum


----------



## Deedaz

Minusorange said:


> It's the stupid migration of the forum, broke more things than needed actually fixing
> 
> If you want to see threads normally you need increase amount of posts per page because apparently default amount = a broke forum



Finally working again, thanks for the tip though I'll try that next time.


----------



## tCoLL

tCoLL said:


> aquacomputer RGB cables are the perfect size for small mdpc sleeve. I know there are cheaper cables but I liked that these were sheathed, making them nice and round as opposed to a lot of the ribbon rgb cables out there. Does anyone know where I can buy the pins for these cables? I know I can just solder directly onto the strip, but I'd prefer to terminate them and use the connector. If anyone has a link to black connectors too, that would be great.
> 
> Also sleeved one of my pumps today. I opened up the back to get the sleeving inside the housing. The sleeving made the cables too wide but the plastic cover actually had another hole that was being covered by the sticker, so I routed one through each hole.


Just wanted to reshare, in case my post got lost. Anyone have a solution for the RGB cable connectors? I found some on amazon but they're called "solderless" and they're really for connecting 2 strips together. I'd like to terminate my cables and use the connector.


----------



## SHNS0

tCoLL said:


> Just wanted to reshare, in case my post got lost. Anyone have a solution for the RGB cable connectors? I found some on amazon but they're called "solderless" and they're really for connecting 2 strips together. I'd like to terminate my cables and use the connector.


I read that solderless connectors are a piece of junk.
You can find the right stuff on Aliexpress or ebay, they are 2.54mm pitch


----------



## tCoLL

Neokolzia said:


> is there a reason why most people are sleeving with the small sleeve rather then bunching the wires into 1 larger sleeve.
> 
> Also when De-pinning say a ATX cable how do you remember which cable is which?


A E S T H E T I C

You mark out which cable goes where on a piece of paper. Do a lot of research on here before attempting since you're new.


----------



## tCoLL

SHNS0 said:


> I read that solderless connectors are a piece of junk.
> You can find the right stuff on Aliexpress or ebay, they are 2.54mm pitch


https://www.amazon.com/Light-Connec...&pf_rd_p=6b27b606-ba71-500d-b5f8-3510f86504b4

This is what I was referring to, but instead of solderless connection the pins would be crimpable on one end. The other end you would slide the strip into. I guess I could just solder the cable on one side and then slide the LED into the other. But like I said, terminating would be cleaner, and I dunno if the connector would close over soldered connections.


----------



## tCoLL

Is it possible to forgo intermediate connectors? For instance, can I wire my pump directly to the PSU instead of wiring a molex connector out of the psu and plugging that into a pump with a molex connector?


----------



## jvillaveces

tCoLL said:


> Is it possible to forgo intermediate connectors? For instance, can I wire my pump directly to the PSU instead of wiring a molex connector out of the psu and plugging that into a pump with a molex connector?



It is absolutely possible and the cleanest alternative. The best approach would be to put a 6-pn connector, or whatever is the appropriate peripheral connector for your psu, on your pump cable. The obvious caveats would be to make sure of the pinout, and to make sure you have enough open peripheral ports on your psu.


----------



## lowfat

I always wire to the PSU directly if possible. Wiring is cleaner and I can wire fans up to 12, 7, or 5V.


----------



## rj2

I have swapped out my pcie-molex connectors to pcie to female sata connectors daisy chained
1 x 4 for 2 pumps 1 fan controller and 1 12volt case connector
i then use male sata connectors
much more solid connection compared to molex

like stated know what the pinouts are


----------



## tCoLL

lowfat said:


> I always wire to the PSU directly if possible. Wiring is cleaner and I can wire fans up to 12, 7, or 5V.





rj2 said:


> I have swapped out my pcie-molex connectors to pcie to female sata connectors daisy chained
> 1 x 4 for 2 pumps 1 fan controller and 1 12volt case connector
> i then use male sata connectors
> much more solid connection compared to molex
> 
> like stated know what the pinouts are


Very cool, will deff clean up my build. One question regarding wiring components directly to the PSU: is it OK to wire multiple components to one AUX connector? For instance, below I marked 4 wires on the 6 pin AUX. Would I be able to wire 2 pumps into a single plug? Or do I need to wire the 2 pumps together, and then use a single 5v and single ground for the 2?


----------



## lowfat

You could wire it either way.


----------



## jvillaveces

*Source for SATA cable?*

ModDiy sells SATA data connectors, but I haven't been able to find a source for the cable itself. Buying and mutilating long cables so I can build them to custom length seems wasteful and clumsy. Does anyone know where bulk SATA data cable can be found? Even the spec for the cable would be useful to search for it.


----------



## Himo5

You can shorten Akasa Proslim sata data cables, as shown in the following video, although you need to take maximum care how you do it. An alternative solution is to use Silverstone Ultra Slim cables. But the only source of standard sata data wire you are likely to find is by cutting up existing cables - at least you start with one connector on the cable that is likely to work.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

That is an excellent video! He covered every little detail of the process.

I use an almost identical technique to his except that I made a wooden fixture to assure the plastic retainer stays in alignment when replacing it. Instead of a vise, I use a small wooden drift and small hammer to drive it back together. I may try to see how well using my little 3" drill press vise will work the next time I shorten cables (which will be soon).

The Akasa Proslim cables come in lengths up to 50cm (19.6") long.


----------



## SHNS0

In terms of SATA data cable I've searched EVERYWHERE and couldn't find any. Maybe I'm missing the correct keywords, but even without those I'm usually able to find something. Not with SATA data unfortunately.

On top of that, standard connectors you can buy in China need molding to make the plastic housing. No-one has readily available "clip-on" housings.

In the end I gave up and found that it's much easier finding a source for high quality cables in multiple lengths.


----------



## Himo5

You can do a lot of moulding yourself using Polymorph, which is available just by doing a search for it on Amazon or Ebay. You just put the granules in boiling water, take them out and mould them by hand as they cool. It can be used over and over again, either in boiling water or just by applying heat by hot air gun or even a lighter - although you must do it over a safe surface like a metal plate in case it catches fire and drips. As it cools it can be rolled out into sheets or strings to be cut up with scissors for later application and if you place it against a smooth surface it will give a gloss finish. I have a small supply of brass shim that can be cut up and bent into moulds for things like connector housings. You can get dyes for it in the primary colours which can then be mixed to get your preferred hue. The dye is just kneaded into the polymorph as it cools. You can also colour it in a dye bath using plastic dyes such as Rit and Idye Poly.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

SHNS0 said:


> In terms of SATA data cable I've searched EVERYWHERE and couldn't find any. Maybe I'm missing the correct keywords, but even without those I'm usually able to find something. Not with SATA data unfortunately.
> 
> On top of that, standard connectors you can buy in China need molding to make the plastic housing. No-one has readily available "clip-on" housings.
> 
> In the end I gave up and found that it's much easier finding a source for high quality cables in multiple lengths.


Go back and read posts 14728 and 14730.


----------



## SHNS0

Yup, I know about the Akasa Proslims, I was adding info on top of that.
Keep in mind that I come from a reseller/artisan point of view, Proslims arent really an option to make dozens of them, and I was specifically looking for bulk purchases.

I've looked in every Chinese and Taiwanese platform I know of, both B2C and B2B, and it's hell impossible to find some cable in any form.



Himo5 said:


> You can do a lot of moulding yourself using Polymorph, which is available just by doing a search for it on Amazon or Ebay. You just put the granules in boiling water, take them out and mould them by hand as they cool. It can be used over and over again, either in boiling water or just by applying heat by hot air gun or even a lighter - although you must do it over a safe surface like a metal plate in case it catches fire and drips. As it cools it can be rolled out into sheets or strings to be cut up with scissors for later application and if you place it against a smooth surface it will give a gloss finish. I have a small supply of brass shim that can be cut up and bent into moulds for things like connector housings. You can get dyes for it in the primary colours which can then be mixed to get your preferred hue. The dye is just kneaded into the polymorph as it cools. You can also colour it in a dye bath using plastic dyes such as Rit and Idye Poly.


At that point, you might as well just have the housing 3D printed


----------



## jvillaveces

I've got as fare as figuring out, per Molex's website, that the spec is 1.27 mm (.050") pitch, seven conductor wire. I haven't been able to find any on the internet, though


----------



## Jakerz

tCoLL said:


> Very cool, will deff clean up my build. One question regarding wiring components directly to the PSU: is it OK to wire multiple components to one AUX connector? For instance, below I marked 4 wires on the 6 pin AUX. Would I be able to wire 2 pumps into a single plug? Or do I need to wire the 2 pumps together, and then use a single 5v and single ground for the 2?


I used one Aux 6 pin and made custom custom extensions for all the fans and my pump on my SMA8 build last year. seemed to work fine, I just used the 16 ga wire and soldered the fan connectors onto it and used a few 2 pole plugs designed for R/C airplanes to make everything easier to install.

Jake


----------



## tCoLL

Anyone know where I can get terminals for vandal switches? I have a lamptron momentary switch. My caselabs case came with front panel cables that had terminals for these type of switches, but I need to redo the cables.


----------



## jvillaveces

tCoLL said:


> Anyone know where I can get terminals for vandal switches? I have a lamptron momentary switch. My caselabs case came with front panel cables that had terminals for these type of switches, but I need to redo the cables.


https://smile.amazon.com/Uxcell-Connectors-Female-Spade-Terminals/dp/B00ACD9SQ2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1533174165&sr=8-4&keywords=2.8mm+spade+connector


----------



## iamjanco

SHNS0 said:


> In terms of SATA data cable I've searched EVERYWHERE and couldn't find any. Maybe I'm missing the correct keywords, but even without those I'm usually able to find something. Not with SATA data unfortunately.
> 
> On top of that, standard connectors you can buy in China need molding to make the plastic housing. No-one has readily available "clip-on" housings.
> 
> In the end I gave up and found that it's much easier finding a source for high quality cables in multiple lengths.





jvillaveces said:


> I've got as fare as figuring out, per Molex's website, that the spec is 1.27 mm (.050") pitch, seven conductor wire. I haven't been able to find any on the internet, though


I'm a little late to the party here (pardon the necro), but the two of you might find the following links useful. They all speak to "100 ohm impedance, flat twinaxial cable," which is what is actually used when making SATA data cables (the twin-pair, three-drain variety of that cable; "drain" being another word for ground):

*SPECIFICATION AND PERFORMANCE CHARACTERISTICS OF SERIAL ATA CABLE ASSEMBLIES*
Dwg. No. 100292 Rev. B Effective Date 03/24/03 

*6GB/S SATA 3.0 OVER ESATAPD (12V/5V) CABLES*

*Product Data Sheet: 3M™ High Routability Internal SATA Cable Assembly*

Like you, I didn't find any sources for it online, but that could be because of how SATA cables might be typically made. If it were me and I really wanted to source the stuff, I'd probably contact Mouser or 3M directly to see if they could help.


----------



## jvillaveces

iamjanco said:


> I'm a little late to the party here (pardon the necro), but the two of you might find the following links useful. They all speak to "100 ohm impedance, flat twinaxial cable," which is what is actually used when making SATA data cables (the twin-pair, three-drain variety of that cable; "drain" being another word for ground):
> 
> *SPECIFICATION AND PERFORMANCE CHARACTERISTICS OF SERIAL ATA CABLE ASSEMBLIES*
> Dwg. No. 100292 Rev. B Effective Date 03/24/03
> 
> *6GB/S SATA 3.0 OVER ESATAPD (12V/5V) CABLES*
> 
> *Product Data Sheet: 3M™ High Routability Internal SATA Cable Assembly*
> 
> Like you, I didn't find any sources for it online, but that could be because of how SATA cables might be typically made. If it were me and I really wanted to source the stuff, I'd probably contact Mouser or 3M directly to see if they could help.


Thank you! I'd rep you if that was still a thing. I have given up the search, but it still irritates me to not be able to build sata data cables to the exact length I need


----------



## iamjanco

jvillaveces said:


> Thank you! I'd rep you if that was still a thing. I have given up the search, but it still irritates me to not be able to build sata data cables to the exact length I need


If I recall correctly, I think some have purchased the cables in one meter lengths, shorted them to fit, then added aftermarket, crimp or solder connector housings to those (but I'm not sure about that). That said, I also believe that the cables are kept to a maximum length of one meter to maintain proper overall impedance per the spec, to help avoid risking data loss.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

jvillaveces said:


> Thank you! I'd rep you if that was still a thing. I have given up the search, but it still irritates me to not be able to build sata data cables to the exact length I need





iamjanco said:


> If I recall correctly, I think some have purchased the cables in one meter lengths, shorted them to fit, then added aftermarket, crimp or solder connector housings to those (but I'm not sure about that). That said, I also believe that the cables are kept to a maximum length of one meter to maintain proper overall impedance per the spec, to help avoid risking data loss.


Check out this video to see how to shorten a certain brand of SATA data cables (available up to 50cm long). I've used a similar technique myself with an excellent success rate.


----------



## iamjanco

Lady Fitzgerald said:


> Check out this video to see how to shorten a certain brand of SATA data cables (available up to 50cm long). I've used a similar technique myself with an excellent success rate.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4LZuvf6h0M


Hadn't seen that video, but that certainly would be one way to do it. I do know that Moddiy carries the both the *data and power compression type connector housings* (which means PPCS might as well). 

Btw, @jvillaveces, also found one link to a *US based distributor of SATA data cable* (in 250ft spools). While their web site looks like a wip in certain areas, their web site copyright line is dated 2018, so the listing could be current.


----------



## jvillaveces

iamjanco said:


> Hadn't seen that video, but that certainly would be one way to do it. I do know that Moddiy carries the both the *data and power compression type connector housings* (which means PPCS might as well).
> 
> Btw, @jvillaveces, also found one link to a *US based distributor of SATA data cable* (in 250ft spools). While their web site looks like a wip in certain areas, their web site copyright line is dated 2018, so the listing could be current.


Your google-fu is strong! Thank you, that's awesome!! I had found (and bought! ) the moddiy connectors, but I've been looking for the cable forever.


----------



## Himo5

Is ModDiy actually open for business any more? For weeks now every time I go on the site there's a red banner across the page saying, "We are in progress of major reform and system upgrade. Sorry, we will not accept any orders.".


----------



## iamjanco

Himo5 said:


> Is ModDiy actually open for business any more? For weeks now every time I go on the site there's a red banner across the page saying, "We are in progress of major reform and system upgrade. Sorry, we will not accept any orders.".


Can't say for sure as the last time I ordered anything from them was last November. Don't see any red banner there now though, and I seem to be able to add items to the cart.


----------



## jvillaveces

Himo5 said:


> Is ModDiy actually open for business any more? For weeks now every time I go on the site there's a red banner across the page saying, "We are in progress of major reform and system upgrade. Sorry, we will not accept any orders.".



As far as I can tell, everything is normal. I don't get the banner, and can navigate the site without problems. Maybe try clearing your cache?


----------



## Himo5

Oh, well done. Clearing the cache did it. Consider yourself Rep+ed.


----------



## R99photography

Hello gents,
I would like to sleeve my Corsair AX750 cables: 1) 24-pin EPS 2) 4+4 pin AUX EPS 3) 6+2 PCIE and the SATA power cable (5 pins).

I’ll probably buy the Paracord 550 for sleeving, should I buy only 4-mm size for any cable?

Thank you. Bye.


----------



## jvillaveces

Has anyone successfully sleeved the rgb cables in Corsair ML120 Pro RGB fans? What tool/technique did you use to remove the pins from the connector housing?


----------



## MAINFrameDave

R99photography said:


> Hello gents,
> I would like to sleeve my Corsair AX750 cables: 1) 24-pin EPS 2) 4+4 pin AUX EPS 3) 6+2 PCIE and the SATA power cable (5 pins).
> 
> I’ll probably buy the Paracord 550 for sleeving, should I buy only 4-mm size for any cable?
> 
> Thank you. Bye.


For the cables you are sleeving yes.


----------



## jvillaveces

jvillaveces said:


> Has anyone successfully sleeved the rgb cables in Corsair ML120 Pro RGB fans? What tool/technique did you use to remove the pins from the connector housing?



Bump


----------



## iamjanco

jvillaveces said:


> Bump


Those are Corsair RGB Link connections, aren't they?

I haven't done so myself, but you might 



.

He also lists the parts needed below the video in his synopsis:

Key Parts: 
4 Pin (Fan Cables)
- Molex 50-57-9404 Female Socket Connector
- Molex 70107-0003 Male Housing Connector
3 Pin (RGB Lighting Strip & Fan Hub Connection Cable)
- Molex 50-57-9403 Female Socket Connector 
- Molex 70107-0002 Male Housing Connector
Pins
- Molex 16-02-0102 Female Crimp Connector
- Molex 16-02-0114 Male Crimp Terminal

That said, while I'm not certain at this point, the Extraction tool you need is likely Molex PN 63811-8700, per what's already been mentioned and the specs at the page that follows: *Molex Tools*.

You can source such tools and just about anything else that's used in electronics via *Octopart*, btw.


----------



## jvillaveces

iamjanco said:


> Those are Corsair RGB Link connections, aren't they?
> 
> I haven't done so myself, but you might *have a look at this video*.
> 
> He also lists the parts needed below the video in his synopsis:
> 
> Key Parts:
> 4 Pin (Fan Cables)
> - Molex 50-57-9404 Female Socket Connector
> - Molex 70107-0003 Male Housing Connector
> 3 Pin (RGB Lighting Strip & Fan Hub Connection Cable)
> - Molex 50-57-9403 Female Socket Connector
> - Molex 70107-0002 Male Housing Connector
> Pins
> - Molex 16-02-0102 Female Crimp Connector
> - Molex 16-02-0114 Male Crimp Terminal
> 
> That said, while I'm not certain at this point, the Extraction tool you need is likely Molex PN 63811-8700, per what's already been mentioned and the specs at the page that follows: *Molex Tools*.
> 
> You can source such tools and just about anything else that's used in electronics via *Octopart*, btw.



*THANK YOU!!* I found and got pins and connectors from Mouser in case I damage something trying to remove the pins from the connectors. I also found out which tool to use from the link you posted, and got that as well. Your post was incredibly helpful.


----------



## DaaQ

Bump for exposure.


----------



## Deathscythes

Hello, 

Allow me to share my work =) 
This is my first custom Sleeving. It's not complete yet I still need to sleeve the 24 pin and and 4 PCIe 8pin.
Just so you know the build features 22 EK Vardars and 13 Halos Lux so I spent many hours on trimmings things down to length and rewiring.

If someone has any suggestion to make things in the back better, I am listening =) 


Spoiler
















And here is the front :


Spoiler























Thanks!


----------



## Himo5

Plenty of work still to do there but it looks fantastic already. Consider yourself rep'd. 

Fan cables seem to have become the major factor in cabling now without the market making much of an effort to cater for them. I'm trying a system in my present build using heat shrink and spiral cable wrap instead of sleeving to try and minimize the space they take up.


----------



## jvillaveces

Himo5 said:


> Plenty of work still to do there but it looks fantastic already. Consider yourself rep'd.
> 
> Fan cables seem to have become the major factor in cabling now without the market making much of an effort to cater for them. I'm trying a system in my present build using heat shrink and spiral cable wrap instead of sleeving to try and minimize the space they take up.


Please post some images and pointers when you have a chance. I've always learned a lot from your contributions here


----------



## Himo5

Big, big CNC router job to learn how to do before I can finalize this build enough to post it but hoping to start the build log before Christmas. Finally managed to make routable/sleevable USB 3.0 cables in this build working at USB 3.0 speeds (the secret is twisted wire pairs).


----------



## Deathscythes

Himo5 said:


> Plenty of work still to do there but it looks fantastic already. Consider yourself rep'd.
> 
> Fan cables seem to have become the major factor in cabling now without the market making much of an effort to cater for them. I'm trying a system in my present build using heat shrink and spiral cable wrap instead of sleeving to try and minimize the space they take up.


Thanks, I appreciate =)

Here is the method I have been using for the fans :



Spoiler















I have grouped the fans by 6 or 4 and rewired them into a single ATX 4pin connector
The connector here handles the 6 top fans. From there the 12V and GND go to the PSU, the tach and PWM go to a motherboard header.
This mod saved me an incredible amount of space. 
I have detailed everything in my build log : 49 - Wiring the fans


----------



## Deathscythes

Since MDPC-X 15 AWG wires are extremely stiff, the GPU cables were quite a challenge to route.



Spoiler





























Not in definitive position, for now they are hanging but you get the idea











This is what I am going with, would love feedback on that as I think it's not a very common way to route GPU cables. Thank you!


----------



## Agenesis

As a beginner, Is there a wiki or database of recommended molex part numbers? 

For example terminals that have long wings, better looking end caps, or generally any part that is recommended over the generic ones available on Aliexpress.

Here's what I found after crawling through forums and reddit 

Cheap female terminal (w/ long wings?) https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1643460

Sata 90 / "through" housing like the ones MDPC sells
https://www.molex.com/molex/product.../0679260015_IDT_AND_SOLDER_CON.xml#partdetail

End cap for sata housing 
http://shop.dzsc.com/stk/67926-0040.html

Through cap for sata housing 
http://shop.dzsc.com/stk/67926-0041.html

Official molex pin removal tool w/free next day shipping 
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/0011030044/molex

If there isn't one there should be. I don't know how after all these time people are paying inflated prices from resellers when they can get it from distributors directly like arrow with free next day shipping.


----------



## iamjanco

Agenesis said:


> As a beginner, Is there a wiki or database of recommended molex part numbers?
> 
> For example terminals that have long wings, better looking end caps, or generally any part that is recommended over the generic ones available on Aliexpress.
> 
> Here's what I found after crawling through forums and reddit
> 
> Cheap female terminal (w/ long wings?) https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1643460
> 
> Sata 90 / "through" housing like the ones MDPC sells
> https://www.molex.com/molex/product.../0679260015_IDT_AND_SOLDER_CON.xml#partdetail
> 
> End cap for sata housing
> http://shop.dzsc.com/stk/67926-0040.html
> 
> Through cap for sata housing
> http://shop.dzsc.com/stk/67926-0041.html
> 
> Official molex pin removal tool w/free next day shipping
> https://www.arrow.com/en/products/0011030044/molex
> 
> If there isn't one there should be. I don't know how after all these time people are paying inflated prices from resellers when they can get it from distributors directly like arrow with free next day shipping.


It's kinda sorta buried in this and other threads. Unfortunately, the forum's search functionality has seen better days (the move to VS pretty much took care of that). 

For now, if you haven't already seen it, *Matt's Tech Pages: COMMON WIRE-TO-BOARD, WIRE-TO-WIRE CONNECTORS, AND CRIMP TOOLS* is among one of the best resources you'll find that's currently readily available AND kept up to date. Also, once you've got the official part number(s) for the items that you're after, *OCTOPART* is a great place to source them. 

You might also want to browse this thread (it's only 16 pages long), as it also has some highly relevant info in it: *PC Crimping Part Numbers*. I've contributed to that as well as this thread in the past, and while a lot of that older info is likely still valid, a lot of it also needs to be scrubbed now to make sure it's current.


----------



## iamjanco

Agenesis said:


> As a beginner, Is there a wiki or database of recommended molex part numbers?
> 
> For example terminals that have long wings, better looking end caps, or generally any part that is recommended over the generic ones available on Aliexpress.
> 
> Here's what I found after crawling through forums and reddit
> 
> Cheap female terminal (w/ long wings?) https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1643460
> 
> Sata 90 / "through" housing like the ones MDPC sells
> https://www.molex.com/molex/product.../0679260015_IDT_AND_SOLDER_CON.xml#partdetail
> 
> End cap for sata housing
> http://shop.dzsc.com/stk/67926-0040.html
> 
> Through cap for sata housing
> http://shop.dzsc.com/stk/67926-0041.html
> 
> Official molex pin removal tool w/free next day shipping
> https://www.arrow.com/en/products/0011030044/molex
> 
> If there isn't one there should be. I don't know how after all these time people are paying inflated prices from resellers when they can get it from distributors directly like arrow with free next day shipping.


It's kinda sorta buried in this and other threads. Unfortunately, the forum's search functionality has seen better days (the move to VS pretty much took care of that). 

For now, if you haven't already seen it, *Matt's Tech Pages: COMMON WIRE-TO-BOARD, WIRE-TO-WIRE CONNECTORS, AND CRIMP TOOLS* is among one of the best resources you'll find that's currently readily available. Also, once you've got the official part number(s) for the items that you're after, *OCTOPART* is a great place to source them. 

You might also want to browse this thread (it's only 16 pages long), as it also has some highly relevant info in it: *PC Crimping Part Numbers*. I've contributed to that as well as this thread in the past, and while a lot of that older info is likely still valid, a lot of it also needs to be scrubbed now to make sure it's current.

Also see:

*Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions*


----------



## DaaQ

I recently got my 24 pin completed and had the Frozen CPU tester hooked up to it. All leds were green except the -5v led. 
Question is does anything use the -5v on modern power supplies anymore? PSU in question is a Seasonic platinum 1k modular. 
I also hooked up the PSU jumper and my 8 and 4 pin EPS cables provided 12v.


----------



## iamjanco

DaaQ said:


> I recently got my 24 pin completed and had the Frozen CPU tester hooked up to it. All leds were green except the -5v led.
> Question is does anything use the -5v on modern power supplies anymore? PSU in question is a Seasonic platinum 1k modular.
> I also hooked up the PSU jumper and my 8 and 4 pin EPS cables provided 12v.


As stated here (*PC Repair and Maintenance: In-depth Look at Power Supply*) back in 2003, the only reason -5v might still be around is that from a technical standpoint, –5v is required on the *Industry Standard Architecture (ISA)* bus for full backward-compatibility. You won't find ISA in use though in modern computers; and if I'm not mistaken, today's Seasonic psus don't output -5vdc (at least their Platinum psus don't). 

@shilka might be able to confirm that.


----------



## Astral85

I'd like a couple of PCIe sleeved cables, do I need PSU specific cables or are any sleeved cables Ok? I have a Seasonic PSU and am looking at these XSPC...

https://www.vipc.com.au/products/xspc-premium-sleeved-atx-cable-extension-kit-black


----------



## iamjanco

Astral85 said:


> I'd like a couple of PCIe sleeved cables, do I need PSU specific cables or are any sleeved cables Ok? I have a Seasonic PSU and am looking at these XSPC...
> 
> https://www.vipc.com.au/products/xspc-premium-sleeved-atx-cable-extension-kit-black


PSU cables typically differ in their pinouts at the PSU end from vendor to vendor, and even psu to psu from the same vendor. You need to look for cables wired for your specific psu, or have custom cables made by someone who specs their work to your specific psu (vendor and model).

Edited: That said, I had another look at the link you provided which is to a set of extension cables. Extension cables get added to the cables that came with your psu and if you're asking if they would work for you if you're going to use them like that, the answer to your question is likely yes as long as you don't plug them into your psu directly. I've never used extension cables and can't speak to the quality of those you asked about, so you might want to wait until others chime in that may have experience using them.


----------



## Astral85

iamjanco said:


> PSU cables typically differ in their pinouts at the PSU end from vendor to vendor, and even psu to psu from the same vendor. You need to look for cables wired for your specific psu, or have custom cables made by someone who specs their work to your specific psu (vendor and model).
> 
> Edited: That said, I had another look at the link you provided which is to a set of extension cables. Extension cables get added to the cables that came with your psu and if you're asking if they would work for you if you're going to use them like that, the answer to your question is likely yes as long as you don't plug them into your psu directly. I've never used extension cables and can't speak to the quality of those you asked about, so you might want to wait until others chime in that may have experience using them.


Oh right I did not notice they are extensions. That's not what I want, I want custom cables. OK so I need to find Seasonic custom cables. Thanks.


----------



## DaaQ

Spoiler






Lady Fitzgerald said:


> Quote:Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Quote:Originally Posted by *kovyrshin*
> 
> ...Lady Fitzgerald, that's great input, thanks! Not sure if I need 14awg wire for three drives. Will likely use 16awg for three drives.
> 
> 
> For only three HDDs, #18 wire will be plenty big and will be a lot easier to punch down. Not all #16 wire will easily fit in the connectors since some wiring has thicker insulation than other wiring. You can use pretty much any punch-down connector with #18 and, if you want to sleeve the wires between the connectors, the ones with the wider covers will cover the raw ends better.





Revan654 said:


> Quote:Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Sigh! You aren't paying attention. I said you had to remove the insulation from the wire only on the larger wires, definitely on #14 and possibly on #16, depending on the thickness of the insulation.
> 
> The wider covers you mentioned will work for sleeving smaller wires, such as #18 and, maybe (a big maybe), #16 but will not on #14. The insulation itself on #14 won't fit under the wider covers. The problem is moot for kovyshrin is moot since #18 is plenty large for only three HDDs.
> 
> The problem with fraying sleeving ends can be avoided by using a tight sleeving and carefully singeing the ends before slipping them onto the wires. Some people apply super glue to the wire insulation before (or, sometimes, after) slipping on the sleeving but getting the right amount of glue so it doesn't mar the appearance of the sleeving is tricky. I saw one person actually use shrink tubing to melt the ends of the sleeves, then trim the melted portion back, leaving a narrow, melted collar on the ends of the sleeve. That took some serious skill and patience!
> 
> I never bothered with sleeving between the connectors since I don't like individually sleeved cables and prefer to use one sleeve over all the wires in a cable (cables are less bulky that way) but that's just a matter of personal taste. When done right, sleeves on the cables between the connectors do look sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> Actually your looking at 16 AWG 2.5+ OD inside Molex Push Down Sata. Nothing needs to be cut.
> 
> Not sure what OD your using with 14 AWG, I'm guessing your using a larger OD. I already have gotten 14 AWG inside the connectors, Sleeved and covers fit just fine.





msd0 said:


> Revan, did you use anything to secure the sleeve between the SATA power connectors?





D-S-J said:


> Quote:Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Where did you find that wire? The thinnest I've ben able to find is 3mm.
> 
> 
> Mouser sells plenty of branded hook up wire 14awg less than 3mm. Like Alphawire 14awg 2.18 OD, rivals even some cheaper 16awg in terms of OD. It's not cost effective at $150-160 for 100ft for most.





Himo5 said:


> I prefer to use a spread insulation method with inline Sata powerstrips (apart from the end connector), not only to avoid broken filaments in the wire but also to get that difficult combination of exactly parallel connectors exactly spaced across the drive cage. The end connector and the crimp at the other end of the wire then clamp the connectors between the insulation.
> 
> 
> 
> I also prefer to use 5x1pin Mini-Fit Male and Female connectors to make the powerstrip independent from the PSU and avoid having single sleeved 5-wire cables from the PSU to the drive cage.
> 
> 
> Another thing worth doing is to build the powerstrip for the drive cage rather than your first set of drives.
> I find that 16awg wire is slightly too big for these connectors while, on the other hand, 18awg wire is slightly too small for them to guarantee that pushing 18awg wire into their jaws will always produce a reliable contact.
> I posted a guide for treating sleeve for inline power strips in Frequently-Asked-Sleeving-Questions last March which might be useful.





lowfat said:


> Anyone ever buy 'Engineer' crimpers? Ended up ordering a set from Japan as I've heard they are some of the best when it comes to small JST crimps.





To any plus all I quoted, anyone have examples of d5 pump sleeving preferably into the housing? Also my pump has adhesive holding the pcb into the housing, is it much effort to separate to be able to solder to the pcb custom wires?
I realize some are no longer active. Sorry for the massive multiquote.


----------



## smilinjohn

DaaQ said:


> To any plus all I quoted, anyone have examples of d5 pump sleeving preferably into the housing? Also my pump has adhesive holding the pcb into the housing, is it much effort to separate to be able to solder to the pcb custom wires?
> I realize some are no longer active. Sorry for the massive multiquote.



You don't need to remove the PCB or solder wires on, use the wires that are there. I pulled the plugs off of my D5 and removed the endcap. You have to enlarge the hole where the wires go through the pumps endcap. Sleeve the cables up to the PCB and shrink the sleeving to the cable but leave the shrink-wrap on the sleeve at the PCB, you can then do the heat shrink less style at the connectors.


----------



## DaaQ

smilinjohn said:


> You don't need to remove the PCB or solder wires on, use the wires that are there. I pulled the plugs off of my D5 and removed the endcap. You have to enlarge the hole where the wires go through the pumps endcap. Sleeve the cables up to the PCB and shrink the sleeving to the cable but leave the shrink-wrap on the sleeve at the PCB, you can then do the heat shrink less style at the connectors.


Thank you for the info, I opted for that route first, but the crimp connections pulled off the wire. I was going to direct wire them into my PSU modular plugs. which then became a chore to get the pins our of the connector. 

I opened up the hole in back plate. De soldered and resoldered new 16awg wires for the power leads. Keeping the tach wire intact.


----------



## FatherErickson

Here is my current build!


----------



## wreckcluse

Does anyone here do any custom work on psu cables? I thought i would try my hand at sleeving my psu and it hasnt worked out too well.


----------



## FatherErickson

wreckcluse said:


> Does anyone here do any custom work on psu cables? I thought i would try my hand at sleeving my psu and it hasnt worked out too well.


Practice makes perfect. Keep at it. Although, there are plenty of online vendors such as Mod-One where you can order a full custom set.


----------



## kgtuning

FatherErickson said:


> Here is my current build!


First, welcome the the forum and second, What a beautiful job on your sleeving.


----------



## wreckcluse

FatherErickson said:


> Practice makes perfect. Keep at it. Although, there are plenty of online vendors such as Mod-One where you can order a full custom set.


yeah i was struggling a bit, until i tried a little different method of melting my sleeving, seems to be working out now.



It seems that these wires were not shielded going all the way down on the split, should i be concerned about this or just heatshrink it over?


----------



## smilinjohn

wreckcluse said:


> yeah i was struggling a bit, until i tried a little different method of melting my sleeving, seems to be working out now.
> 
> 
> 
> It seems that these wires were not shielded going all the way down on the split, should i be concerned about this or just heat shrink it over?



I always cut into the insulation at a point along the wire that is going to be hidden. Heat shrink the sleeving at the soldered joint leaving the heat shrink in place and run just 1 wire to the connector that I do heat-shrink less style if that makes sense. 



YouTube has some decent videos on the subject. I watched this guys videos before trying it myself and my sleeving jobs turn out pretty decent.








A pic of my work can be found here: https://www.overclock.net/forum/rigbuilder.php?do=rig&action=view&rigid=6851522


----------



## wreckcluse

smilinjohn said:


> I always cut into the insulation at a point along the wire that is going to be hidden. Heat shrink the sleeving at the soldered joint leaving the heat shrink in place and run just 1 wire to the connector that I do heat-shrink less style if that makes sense.
> 
> 
> 
> YouTube has some decent videos on the subject. I watched this guys videos before trying it myself and my sleeving jobs turn out pretty decent.
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ayLgA_BXN_s&list=PLPZbMurO9Ou3Ya2Qkn1uVIQfbkmY5inda
> 
> 
> A pic of my work can be found here: https://www.overclock.net/forum/rigbuilder.php?do=rig&action=view&rigid=6851522


Good tip, ill have to try that if i cant get this connector back in. For the sake of simplicity im using some presleeved wires from a corsair kit, and i was trying to avoid modifying the wires/pins and just redoing the sleeve


----------



## smilinjohn

wreckcluse said:


> Good tip, ill have to try that if i cant get this connector back in. For the sake of simplicity im using some presleeved wires from a corsair kit, and i was trying to avoid modifying the wires/pins and just redoing the sleeve





Well, that exposed bit in your pic, while not ideal, shouldn't touch anything as it should slide into the connector. But you'll have to leave the shrink wrap in place IMHO to keep the sleeving in place, it has nothing to really hold to if it is not up on the pin when you melt it to the cable. Though I did score some clear shrink wrap from MainFrame Customs on my last order, and they have white too.


And a tip. On the pin take a razor blade and gently bent the little tabs (wings) on the sides out before you try to reset it into the connector because if you flattened them down too much removing the pin it won't stay in the connector when you try to put it back. Every time I have to remove a pin for whatever reason I always bend those tabs back out so they hold when I put it back in.


----------



## Himo5

wreckcluse said:


> yeah i was struggling a bit, until i tried a little different method of melting my sleeving, seems to be working out now.
> 
> It seems that these wires were not shielded going all the way down on the split, should i be concerned about this or just heatshrink it over?


I should think that will take some coaxing to get it into the connector housing and you won't be sure once it's in there that you didn't weaken one of the joints while you were doing it. In addition, if that is the device end of the cable, it is not going to look as if it was worth your while modding it in the first place.

This is the problem of double wires that whole generations of modders have chosen wire splicing to avoid and you'll find the internet littered with videos and treatises on how to do it.

The perenial problem is that just about every effective method of splicing leaves a result that not only takes up extra space but governs the way you can route the cable as well. After much trial and error the best solution I have found is to sleeve the monitor wire through the side of the sleeving on the main wire at the splice.

Choosing Your Wire Gauge 
If the wires supplied with the PSU are marked you will usually find that the monitor wires are a smaller gauge than the main wires they are doubled with. On many Seasonic PSUs, for example, the main wires are 18awg and the monitor wires are 22awg (they also use 20awg for ATX Pin8[PS-ON/grey] and ATX Pin14[-12V/blue]). If the wires are not marked you can tell how the gauges vary under a magnifying glass. If you want to use a thicker gauge, such as 16awg, for the main wires - to suit higher value sleeving or support a more powerful installation - I always make it a practice to maintain the difference in gauges between these wires in the cable, so for 16awg I would use 20awg for monitor wires and 18awg for the grey and blue wires.

Where Splicing Comes in the Process
Emulating the double wires and capacitors in PSU cables should be the first stage of making your own version before you start crimping and sleeving the single wires. The second stage should be to strip, crimp and sleeve only the device end of each single wire or double wire assembly. The wires should be cut slightly longer at the PSU end than required and the sleeving should be pulled tight over them there and sealed with a lighter. You can then shape the cable as required and install any cable combs before deciding exactly where each wire should be cut at the PSU connection and what degree of twist your routing plan has placed on it. When you cut the sleeving and the wire it is on you then have to learn how to clamp it first to preserve the twist and the tightness and make your arrangements for keeping them intact through the crimping process.

Tools
Flush Cutter: If you can't get the type of flush cutter as used by Lutro0 from a modding shop then do a search on Ebay for a flush cutter and get the sharpest precision snipper you can find.
Pin: You need this to seperate insulation from the wire it encloses and for marking where wire ends under the sleeving.
Lighter: Any gas lighter with a strong blue flame.
Pair of Plastic Spikes: I make mine out of Polymorph, however, any spiking implement will do - a pair of biros or pencils, centre punches or scribing tools - if any of these are thick enough to fill the sleeving diameter.
Vice: Especially important when making a longitudinal cut in wire insulation.
Soldering Iron: A soldering station would be better but a simple soldering iron and some rosin solder wire will do fine.
Knife: A genuine Xacto knife (with metal blade holders) would be ideal but anything will do from a box cutter to a razor blade; just take care not to cut yourself.


----------



## Fishheadman

I have a question about sleeving my videocard cables. 



My GPU uses an 8 pin + 6 pin. When I sleeve my cable can I leave out the 2 PINs i am not using? I would just remove them from the 8pin connector and not install them when I am done so the 8 pin that connects into the PSU would be missing 2 pins. I see see no reason to sleeve the extra 2 wires and have them in my case for no reason.


----------



## Modpcru

Alternative without heat shrinkage and soldering of double wires:


----------



## jvillaveces

Fishheadman said:


> I have a question about sleeving my videocard cables.
> 
> 
> 
> My GPU uses an 8 pin + 6 pin. When I sleeve my cable can I leave out the 2 PINs i am not using? I would just remove them from the 8pin connector and not install them when I am done so the 8 pin that connects into the PSU would be missing 2 pins. I see see no reason to sleeve the extra 2 wires and have them in my case for no reason.


Absolutely yes. Your custom cables will look much better that way. There is no reason to put in the unused cables, plus if you ever change GPUs and need the extra cables, you can always put them in with very little effort.


----------



## Himo5

Fishheadman said:


> I have a question about sleeving my videocard cables.
> 
> 
> 
> My GPU uses an 8 pin + 6 pin. When I sleeve my cable can I leave out the 2 PINs i am not using? I would just remove them from the 8pin connector and not install them when I am done so the 8 pin that connects into the PSU would be missing 2 pins. I see see no reason to sleeve the extra 2 wires and have them in my case for no reason.


You need to be careful when emulating PCI-E cables. They are often connected to the same PSU outlets as the EPS/CPU cables, BUT THE 12V AND GROUND LINES AT THE MOTHERBOARD AND THE GRAPHICS CARD ARE THE OPPOSITE WAY ROUND TO EACH OTHER - so at the motherboard the 12v lines are adjacent to the Lug on the connector but at the graphics card the 12v lines are opposite to the Lug.


Another peculiarity of PCI-E cables is that both the 6 pin and 8 pin connections only have three 12v lines and when they come from an 8 pin outlet at the PSU with 4 12v lines and 4 ground lines that is also used for EPS cables one of the 12v lines is not connected and one of the ground lines is doubled at the PSU to make the 8th line for an 8 pin PCI-E connection - which is then connected at the graphics card opposite the lug in the same row as the three 12v lines.


Note that this an instance of double wiring that is not about measuring current droop, otherwise doubling the wire at the PSU end instead of at the device end of the cable would not measure any loss in signal because of cable length.


So before emulating a PCI-E cable you need to find exactly which pin at the graphics card is connected to each pin at the PSU. 


On the 6 pin cable just make the 3 12v and 3 Ground lines and leave off the doubled ground line needed for the 8 pin cable.


On the 8 pin cable individually sleeving the wires presents the problem of sleeving a double wire and trying to fit it into a single wire connection. With any luck you will have a PSU outlet where the doubled ground wire is opposite the empty 12v connection, which will allow you to cut the plastic wall between the two connections loose on both sides so that it widens the entrance to the doubled wire connection and covers the empty 12v connection.


----------



## FatherErickson

*NZXT Kraken AIO power cable sleeving*

Not really sure if this will consist of a legitimate "write-up" on how to sleeve the power cables on a NZXT Kraken AIO. It appears to me that no ones has actually documented this process (at least to my knowledge) so, here we go. 

I have not perfected the process, but for now I am happy with how it turned out. 

To start, you will need a classic ATX pin removal tool, OR you can get away with a tiny flat head. 

https://imgur.com/a/wqHaIaT

As you remove the pins, it's not that hard to keep track of the pin-out in your head, given the way these cables are clustered together from the factory. (cluster of 4 on the left, cluster of 3 in the middle, and cluster of 2 on the right) Kind of looks like this [IIII-III-II]. As long as you don't separate each cable from it's cluster, you should be fine but I recommend taking pictures of where the cables started for your own reference. 

Now, you can get by without separating each individual cable, but I found that separating them results in a cleaner look and also it makes sleeving the cluster of 4 much easier. I actually split the cluster of 4 in half, so I have two clusters of 2 on the left now. So now it looks like [II-II-III-II]

You will definitely need to keep track of the pin-out if you go this route, so the way I did this was I colored the tips of the pins with sharpie 

https://imgur.com/a/ZZfvnq4

https://imgur.com/a/llTPHMj

Once you have your cables free from their connector, simply begin sleeving! 

The hardest part of this process is how to go about securing the sleeving to these tiny cables and it's tiny cable connector. I tried a couple different methods. You can of course heatshrink, however I found this method to looks horrendous in the end. So I went with a "heatshrinkless" look. It's not perfect, but I think it looks much better than heatshrink. All I did was use the traditional heatshinless method, but instead of fully melting the sleeving to the cable, I just get the sleeving melted down enough to form a tight hug around the cable. This is a fine balance between not wanting to melt the sleeving onto the cable, and not melting enough to the point where the sleeving moves too freely. 

https://imgur.com/a/8eAf6oN

I think that's about it for now. Thanks for looking.


----------



## stutho

*Modifying PSU wire loom*

Hi all,

I am just setting up to sleeve a Corsair RM850. This is my 3rd foray into sleeving. I want to switch round a few wires between the PSU and the MB to clean up the cable runs. All 5v wires from the PSU will still be going to 5v pins on the MB but not to the same pin as with the stock cable. The same is true for the 12V, 3.3v and 0v. 
Is this safe to do? (see option 1 in wiring diagram).

Ideally I would like to take this one step further and change which wire the 'sensing pins' of the PSU are spliced into. i.e I want to spice the 3.3v sensing wire into a different 3.3v wire. Dito 0v.
Is this safe to do? (see option 2 in wiring diagram).



Thank you!


----------



## smilinjohn

stutho said:


> Is this safe to do?



No it is not, you risk damaging things. BAD BAD BAD IDEA!!!



I WOULD NOT under any circumstance change where wires that go to the MB around so they have different feeds on the PSU. These are engineered to output a certain way for a reason, go changing that and you risk frying components. 



But it's your money, burn it up if you want.


----------



## stutho

Hi smilinjohn,

Thanks for getting back to me, I really appreciate input from others! 

Out of the two options the first seams totally risk free. I have checked through the ATX specification and one 5v input is the same as any other 5v. In other words it shouldn't matter at all which 5V out from the PSU is used. This is also true for the 3.3 and 0v. HOWEVER there is a difference on the 12v rail. Each pin on the ATX board is independent. 
(I have not reassigned pins on the 12v lines in option 1 or 2).

Option 2 ISmore risky. I _believe_ It is unlikely to do any damage but might result in changes to load line calibration. (My guess would be under 1%). However I could be wrong on this and I might be making a BIG mistake! If I had the specification for the Corsair PSU or if I were to do a tear down on it I would know for sure, but I don't have one and don't want to do the other. 

So (and I am not trying to be rude here) do you actually know some one who has tried this, especially option 1 and if so did they work out why it failed - given it is within ATX specification? I am basically looking for some concrete evidence one way or the other. 

I am probably going to try out option 2 in the next few days. Standby with a fire extinguishers at the ready!!

Thanks again

Stutho
(retired electronic engineer - I actually used to design industrial SMPS however I have never designed a computer PSU and things change!) 

link to the ATX specification https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FS8/5ILB/GU59Z1AT/FS85ILBGU59Z1AT.pdf


----------



## smilinjohn

stutho said:


> Hi smilinjohn,
> 
> Thanks for getting back to me, I really appreciate input from others!
> 
> Out of the two options the first seams totally risk free. I have checked through the ATX specification and one 5v input is the same as any other 5v. In other words it shouldn't matter at all which 5V out from the PSU is used. This is also true for the 3.3 and 0v. HOWEVER there is a difference on the 12v rail. Each pin on the ATX board is independent.
> (I have not reassigned pins on the 12v lines in option 1 or 2).
> 
> Option 2 ISmore risky. I _believe_ It is unlikely to do any damage but might result in changes to load line calibration. (My guess would be under 1%). However I could be wrong on this and I might be making a BIG mistake! If I had the specification for the Corsair PSU or if I were to do a tear down on it I would know for sure, but I don't have one and don't want to do the other.
> 
> So (and I am not trying to be rude here) do you actually know some one who has tried this, especially option 1 and if so did they work out why it failed - given it is within ATX specification? I am basically looking for some concrete evidence one way or the other.
> 
> I am probably going to try out option 2 in the next few days. Standby with a fire extinguishers at the ready!!
> 
> Thanks again
> 
> Stutho
> (retired electronic engineer - I actually used to design industrial SMPS however I have never designed a computer PSU and things change!)
> 
> link to the ATX specification https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FS8/5ILB/GU59Z1AT/FS85ILBGU59Z1AT.pdf



Good luck.


I make all my own harnesses, I never use the cable sets that come with PSUs when I'm building a PC for myself, sometimes I even build custom cable sets for customers at their request. I will create custom taps for water pumps but never switch the feeds around that go to the MB 24 pin, CPU 4/8pin, Drives, or add-on cards(GPU, Audio, NIC), to me it isn't worth the risk, while I spare no expense building for myself it doesn't mean I have the money to risk frying stuff just to see if I can make it work if I rewire it a different way than the manufacture intended...


You say your an engineer so you should know (and thus understand) that things typically get designed a particular way for specific reasons. Start messing with that and things can go bad (very bad), quick (very quickly).


Again good luck.


----------



## stutho

Hi smilinjohn,

Also not being the kind of person to waste money on a bad experiment I have done some power off testing tonight on an old MB and old power supply. Tomorrow I am going to _fire _  them up and see what happens. First trying option 1 and then option 2. 

At this point I am 99% happy that option 1 will work and won't have ANY affect on harmonics or Vdroop. Once I go power on then I will be 100% happy for all PSUs - with regard to the 5v, 3.3v and 0v(Com) but not with the 12v. (that is as long as the PSUs and MBs are withing the spec of ATX). 

Option 2 remains a concern it all comes down to how the Engineer designed the regulator. Given that all the 5v, wires are cross connected at the MB then I very much doubt that anything will go bang once the plug is connected to the MB. However if the PSU is run unconnected then there could be issues - and, if the PSU protection is poor, these could be bad.

Unfortunately running a test on an old PSU won't prove too much on the 2nd option for any other PSUs. I am currently 65% happy that this will work for my main PSU and if my bench test works tomorrow then that will only raise a little. I might also make up a Wheatstone bridge circuit tonight. I can use this to check for the presence of small value resistors in the 5v lines, without going full tear down. Basically more accurate than a multi meter. (All the above applies to the 3.3v and the 0v(com) as well).

When I sent the original post I was expecting someone to chirp up and say 'Don't you know anything. We all re-wire our PSUs for best layout. It is fine as long as you stick to rules XYZ.' 
I am genuinely surprised that the opposite is true and no one does this. If I can add something to the collective knowledge then I will be a happy man and If I blow up an old PSU then the list can have a good laugh!

Stutho

PS your system looks great! I have always fancied an open build - but always been afraid of dropping something conductive on it! A friend of mine accidentally dropped a serial lead (RS232) onto a computer that was open for upgrading. Result was an instant down grade to a door stop and some magic smoke!


----------



## smilinjohn

stutho said:


> PS your system looks great! I have always fancied an open build - but always been afraid of dropping something conductive on it! A friend of mine accidentally dropped a serial lead (RS232) onto a computer that was open for upgrading. Result was an instant down grade to a door stop and some magic smoke!



Thanks, but yea I need to update my build on here that's an old configuration. It was taking up to much space in my tiny apartment and I needed to rearrange and compact my living space to add a workbench


This is my current machine.
Even that pic is old since I just put a cross-flow rad in this past weekend:h34r-smi


----------



## iamjanco

stutho said:


> Hi smilinjohn,
> 
> Thanks for getting back to me, I really appreciate input from others!
> 
> Out of the two options the first seams totally risk free. I have checked through the ATX specification and one 5v input is the same as any other 5v. In other words it shouldn't matter at all which 5V out from the PSU is used. This is also true for the 3.3 and 0v. HOWEVER there is a difference on the 12v rail. Each pin on the ATX board is independent.
> (I have not reassigned pins on the 12v lines in option 1 or 2).
> 
> Option 2 ISmore risky. I _believe_ It is unlikely to do any damage but might result in changes to load line calibration. (My guess would be under 1%). However I could be wrong on this and I might be making a BIG mistake! If I had the specification for the Corsair PSU or if I were to do a tear down on it I would know for sure, but I don't have one and don't want to do the other.
> 
> So (and I am not trying to be rude here) do you actually know some one who has tried this, especially option 1 and if so did they work out why it failed - given it is within ATX specification? I am basically looking for some concrete evidence one way or the other.
> 
> I am probably going to try out option 2 in the next few days. Standby with a fire extinguishers at the ready!!
> 
> Thanks again
> 
> Stutho
> (retired electronic engineer - I actually used to design industrial SMPS however I have never designed a computer PSU and things change!)
> 
> link to the ATX specification https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FS8/5ILB/GU59Z1AT/FS85ILBGU59Z1AT.pdf


Welcome to the forum, am interested in seeing your results. 

In addition to the "current" ATX spec (or most recent, v2.2, dating back to 2004), you may find the following links useful if you haven't already seen them:

*INTEL (PDF): *
*Desktop Platform Form Factors
Power Supply Design Guide
June 2018, Revision 002*

*pickeringtest.com:*
*Using the Voltage Sense Connections on a Power Supply*

*keysight.com:*
*Remote Sensing is Important for Your Power Supply*

*pinouts.ru (older Russian site):*
*ATX 24 pin power supply connector pinout*

Much of the information in the sites listed above is duplicated across them, but you may find the odd tidbit in one or more of them useful.

Good luck :thumb:


----------



## stutho

*Modifying PSU wire loom*



stutho said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I am just setting up to sleeve a Corsair RM850. This is my 3rd foray into sleeving. I want to switch round a few wires between the PSU and the MB to clean up the cable runs. All 5v wires from the PSU will still be going to 5v pins on the MB but not to the same pin as with the stock cable. The same is true for the 12V, 3.3v and 0v.
> Is this safe to do? (see option 1 in wiring diagram).
> 
> Ideally I would like to take this one step further and change which wire the 'sensing pins' of the PSU are spliced into. i.e I want to spice the 3.3v sensing wire into a different 3.3v wire. Dito 0v.
> Is this safe to do? (see option 2 in wiring diagram).
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you!


So a quick update 

Option 1
I am continuing to test but so far it all looks absolutely fine. 

Option 2
Haven't started testing yet.

I probably wont get back to this until Monday. I give a full post once all my data is in.


----------



## stutho

*Modifying PSU wire loom*

Test results:

TL;DR

Modifying the loom on a 10+ year old PSU (and system) had no significant affect using option 1 and/or 2. So I am making up a new cable set for a new Corsair RM850 PSU and AM4+ System.


Full Test Report

Disclosure. I hold a degree in electronic engineering and spent a very significant amount of my working like as designing engineer, designing power electronics for the industrial sector, this included SMPS design. However I no longer have the tools available that I would like to do a comprehensive suit of testing. For instance I can not accurately measure ripple current. So while I am happy to proceed to my real system YOU should not be! Do testing for yourself, verify my results, for all you know I might be a 7 year old kid with a DVM! All my testing was done on a junker system where I don't care if it lives or dies. Modifying the PSU loom has the potential to go very bad - you have been warned. 

Equipment used:

PSU Enermax MODU82+ (80 Bronze) - semi modular 
MB Gigabyte GA 945PL-S3 (DDR2!!!)
CPU Intel Core 2 duo
GPU XFX Radeon HD6870

Test 1 - no modification to harness (base line)

The MB / CPU was powered and loaded with prime95. HwInfo was also open but voltage reading were taken at the back of the 24pin ATX plug. 

7 data set were taken over 10 min with varying load (average given below). Note that the voltage was the same on each of the V5 lines and each of the V3.3 lines. This was as expected as there is only ONE 5v output from the PSU and ONE 3.3v output from the PSU. (There are multiply wire only to increase the current handling capacity of the ATX plug and 18 gauge wire but they are they are the same output electrically). However under the atx specification the 12V lines are separate from one another. 

V3.3 = 3.41v 
V5 = 5.19v 
V12(1) = 12.55 


Test 2 - no modification to harness but with a set of unmodified 24pin sleeved extensions added (35cm - 16gauge)  
It was suspected that adding a off the shelf extension might have an effect affect as it there will be uncompensated Vdroop across the length of the extension. 7 data set were taken over 10 min with varying load (average given below.) 

V3.3 = 3.37v 
V5 = 5.16v 
V12(1) = 12.42

While the measurements is close to the noise floor of the experiment I believe there is a difference. Lots of computers are run like this without any problems so while the difference is measurable it is not significant. 

Test 3 - Simulation of option 1. 24 pin plug rewired but sensing wire pair remain the same, 24 pin cable extensions removed.

Pins were swapped in the ATX plug but the sense wire remained spliced to the same output of the PSU for 3.3v 5v & 12v & com 
7 data set were taken over 10 min with varying load (average given below.) 

V3.3 = 3.41v 
V5 = 5.20v 
V12(1) = 12.57v

This is an identical result to stock (withing experimental error)


Test 4 - Simulation of option 2. 24 pin plug rewired and sensing wire re-spliced.

in addition to the changes of option 3 the 5v sense wire was spliced into 5v line. ditto the 3.3v and 0v(com).

V3.3 = 3.38v 
V5 = 5.18v 
V12(1) = 12.57v

This is an identical result to stock (withing experimental error)

Conclusions

1. *For this PSU* it is safe to wire any 5v line from the PSU to any 5v input of the 24pin plug. Ditto the 3.3v and 0v rail. (I suspect this is also true for the 12v but it is untested)
2. *For this PSU* it is safe splice the 5v Sense lines to any 5v line - but it should be as close to the MB as possible. Ditto the 3.3v Sense and the 0v(COM) Sense. DON'T mod the 12v this way!


----------



## iamjanco

Good info, thanks for the effort  

Just curious, did you have the opportunity to take a look at ripple during your testing?


----------



## boostedevo

I need some help


----------



## smilinjohn

boostedevo said:


> I need some help



I assume you mean with sleeving the cables on that fan?


Try this video:


----------



## boostedevo

smilinjohn said:


> I assume you mean with sleeving the cables on that fan?
> 
> 
> Try this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcXKPn_Mf0g


Lol Yes thank you! 22 gentle typhoons need to be pretty


----------



## smilinjohn

boostedevo said:


> Lol Yes thank you! 22 gentle typhoons need to be pretty



Having done fans before, they are a pain to sleeve. They are the one thing I do not like doing and will avoid if I can.


----------



## jvillaveces

smilinjohn said:


> Having done fans before, they are a pain to sleeve. They are the one thing I do not like doing and will avoid if I can.


Fan sleeving is easy if you have the correct tool. This is what I use: https://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/ats/HT-2759.pdf. 
It makes removing the pins without damiging them or the connectors a breeze.

You can either put all 3 or 4 wires through one normal 3 or 4 mm sleeve and put a sata-size piece of heatshrink over the connector, or sleeve wires individually with 1/16" sleeve and go heatshrinkless.


----------



## smilinjohn

jvillaveces said:


> Fan sleeving is easy if you have the correct tool. This is what I use: https://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/ats/HT-2759.pdf.
> It makes removing the pins without damiging them or the connectors a breeze.



While I always like buying new tools, getting the wire out of the connector isn't a problem for me. I use an X-Acto knife point to push the locking-tab down. Though PSA - turn the sharp side away from any exposed flesh, and no I've not cut myself taking connectors off I'm just smart enough to know that it's dangerous doing it that way:thumb:




jvillaveces said:


> You can either put all 3 or 4 wires through one normal 3 or 4 mm sleeve and put a sata-size piece of heatshrink over the connector, or sleeve wires individually with 1/16" sleeve and go heatshrinkless.



Don't get me wrong, I sleeved 10 fans in my Thermaltake Core X 5. I pull all wires at the same time, when I did my Core 5 fans I used 4mm because that was all my source had. Now they carry the 2mm sleeving, I bought some on my last order to do a heat-shrinkless style on my current fans but on the case I'm using now I didn't need it because I was able to hide the wires.


I don't like doing fans because: 1 They are harder to do because of the smaller wires. 2 The terminals are finicky if I have to replace them if I have to lengthening or shortening wire. 3 You always have heat-shrink at the fan body. 4 It's hard to get the sleeved wires back in the frame where they look clean and neat IMO.


----------



## Barefooter

jvillaveces said:


> Fan sleeving is easy if you have the correct tool. This is what I use: https://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/ats/HT-2759.pdf.
> It makes removing the pins without damiging them or the connectors a breeze.
> 
> You can either put all 3 or 4 wires through one normal 3 or 4 mm sleeve and put a sata-size piece of heatshrink over the connector, or sleeve wires individually with 1/16" sleeve and go heatshrinkless.


I've never seen that tool before. Looks like it would work well. I did a quick web search and it doesn't look like anybody has it on stock.




smilinjohn said:


> While I always like buying new tools, getting the wire out of the connector isn't a problem for me. I use an X-Acto knife point to push the locking-tab down. Though PSA - turn the sharp side away from any exposed flesh, and no I've not cut myself taking connectors off I'm just smart enough to know that it's dangerous doing it that way:thumb:
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I sleeved 10 fans in my Thermaltake Core X 5. I pull all wires at the same time, when I did my Core 5 fans I used 4mm because that was all my source had. Now they carry the 2mm sleeving, I bought some on my last order to do a heat-shrinkless style on my current fans but on the case I'm using now I didn't need it because I was able to hide the wires.
> 
> I don't like doing fans because: 1 They are harder to do because of the smaller wires. 2 The terminals are finicky if I have to replace them if I have to lengthening or shortening wire. 3 You always have heat-shrink at the fan body. 4 It's hard to get the sleeved wires back in the frame where they look clean and neat IMO.


I've always used an X-Acto knife too.

Here's the last stack of fans I sleeved... painted the fan blades too.


----------



## Himo5

Now that we so often have to deal with so many fans in a build with only limited routing options in the case I found the old paradigms for fan sleeving were causing more problems than they solved, so I developed a new set that I use for all my builds.
1. I place a molex micro-fit wire to wire 3.0mm pitch connector at the fan itself with a only a very short lead to allow for easy installation.
2. I build all my extensions using 22awg 6713 Alpha Wire dyed for the Black/Yellow/Green/Blue wiring scheme.
3. I sleeve all 4 (or 3) wires with clear 3 or 4 mm heat shrink.
4. I bundle as much of the fan harness as I can in spiral cable wrap and then use heat shrink of the appropriate color to sleeve exposed wires and connectors.
5. I use molex micro fit 3.0mm pitch connectors for all wire to wire fittings because they work better than KK fittings and don't take up any more room.
This requires a new set of do's and don'ts that must be learnt: getting all the shrink on a wire in the right order before fitting a connector or heating the shrink; heating the shrink from one end to the other to avoid causing air bubbles; threading narrow shrink onto a wire using hold-pull-release techniques without stretching the shrink too much; using the heat gun to train wires into the routing scheme - and so on - but it's worth it to be able to prevent fan cables from dominating a build again.


----------



## smilinjohn

Barefooter said:


> Here's the last stack of fans I sleeved... painted the fan blades too.



Forget that, I'd run custom wire lengths and solider the wire to the fan lead and shrink-wrap, that would let me hide the wire and it would be faster than sleeving all them fans. When I build with more fans than headers I run the fans on PWM controllers, where the wire drops into sight I'd use automotive loom to conceal the bundled wires and tie wrap the loom to the frame in a tucked away place almost out of sight. Unless your shinning a light inside the case you really can't see it, but I use black cases too so...


----------



## jvillaveces

Barefooter said:


> I've never seen that tool before. Looks like it would work well. I did a quick web search and it doesn't look like anybody has it on stock...


DigiKey has it, that's where I got mine. In fact it's where I found the product data sheet I linked.


----------



## iamjanco

jvillaveces said:


> DigiKey has it, that's where I got mine. In fact it's where I found the product data sheet I linked.


If you're not already familiar with Octopart, it's a handy online search tool that can be used to source tools, components, and other parts, etc., worldwide, as well as find the lowest pricing for what you're looking for. In this case, using it to search for the Molex Extractor tool, p/n *0011030022*, returns a relatively large number of results.


----------



## Barefooter

jvillaveces said:


> DigiKey has it, that's where I got mine. In fact it's where I found the product data sheet I linked.


Thank you. That link doesn't work for me though.




iamjanco said:


> If you're not already familiar with Octopart, it's a handy online search tool that can be used to source tools, components, and other parts, etc., worldwide, as well as find the lowest pricing for what you're looking for. In this case, using it to search for the Molex Extractor tool, p/n *0011030022*, returns a relatively large number of results.


You rock janco! I saved the Octopart link for future use :thumb:

I purchased that extractor tool to add to my collection of tools. I'll try it out the next time I sleeve fans.


----------



## boostedevo

8 more left 

Used some pin removal tool I had laying around but it seems the gentle typhoons didn’t have much locking tang. At any rate they are all secure when inserted back into the header so I’m not too worried. 

Also chose not to do heat shrink next to the sticker, I think just the sleeve looks cleaner. Also liked the white headers with the white sticker so I didn’t replace them with black ones. First attempt didn’t turn out too bad, thanks for the video.


----------



## jvillaveces

Barefooter said:


> Thank you. That link doesn't work for me though.



Oops. I will go back to my post and edit in case someone wants to look it up in the future. I didn't know about octopart either, that's a great contribution!


----------



## iamjanco

Barefooter said:


> Thank you. That link doesn't work for me though.
> 
> You rock janco! I saved the Octopart link for future use :thumb:
> 
> I purchased that extractor tool to add to my collection of tools. I'll try it out the next time I sleeve fans.





jvillaveces said:


> Oops. I will go back to my post and edit in case someone wants to look it up in the future. I didn't know about octopart either, that's a great contribution!


Thanks, guys. I've been using Octoparts for a couple of years now and haven't found a better tool. Occasionally I come up with a mismatched price; but for the most part, it's been pretty reliable.


----------



## yanks8981

I am redoing an old rig and want to create some custom wires and sleeve them. I have tools from when I did this years ago, but need female ATX pins. Any recommendations?


----------



## iamjanco

*Mini-Fit Jr (Molex)* pins and connectors are the ones you're after.While it's a larger collection of products, you can narrow down exactly what you need depending on the wire gauge you'll be using (e.g., 16AWG), and the plating (e.g., tin, gold, etc.) on the connections you'll be making your connections to. 

A handy reference about pins in general which includes a discussion of the tools used, as well as the different plating material can be found here:

Matt's Tech Pages: *Common Wire-to-board, Wire-to-wire Connectors, And Crimp Tools: Molex Mini-fit Jr*

Lastly, once you've determined what you specifically need, you can find the cheapest place to make your purchase(s) using *OCTOPARTS*.


----------



## yanks8981

awesome, thanks. Are there better PSUs that others for sleeving? I was looking at the Corsair RM750X, primarily because I like the white look for my build.


----------



## iamjanco

yanks8981 said:


> awesome, thanks. Are there better PSUs that others for sleeving? I was looking at the Corsair RM750X, primarily because I like the white look for my build.


I couldn't say for sure, as I look more at specs/reliability when it comes to psus. But there are others here on OCN who might be able to give you solid answers in terms of sleevability.

I do know that Seasonic doesn't use caps in at least some of the cabling that comes with their higher end psus; which would imply that Seasonic is happy with output ripple in those cases. You might try posting your query in *this thread*. You should get a fairly quick reply.


----------



## yanks8981

iamjanco said:


> I couldn't say for sure, as I look more at specs/reliability when it comes to psus. But there are others here on OCN who might be able to give you solid answers in terms of sleevability.
> 
> I do know that Seasonic doesn't use caps in at least some of the cabling that comes with their higher end psus; which would imply that Seasonic is happy with output ripple in those cases. You might try posting your query in *this thread*. You should get a fairly quick reply.


The seasonic gx550 looks good. I'm thinking of going with a 550 and using white sleeve to go with it. I'd need to get rid of all the pre-installed shrink and sleeve though.


----------



## jvillaveces

yanks8981 said:


> The seasonic gx550 looks good. I'm thinking of going with a 550 and using white sleeve to go with it. I'd need to get rid of all the pre-installed shrink and sleeve though.


It's usually a better strategy to build your own cables and sleeve them than to sleeve the OEM cables. You can get the gauge you want, make them to your required length, and not have to deal with the kinks present on all OEM cables. Also, OEM cables do double wires by crimping two wires to a pin, which makes neat sleeving impossible.


----------



## Systemlord

I have a question regarding sleeving with MDPC sleeving on mobo cables/wires where they go from one and split into two wires, the sleeve slides off because there is nothing for the heatshrink to grab ahold.


I am using my own thicker gauge wires which has helped and have discarded the oem wires, but don't know what to do about the double wire debacle. It's been 8 years and I've never figured it out.


----------



## Himo5

This post earlier in the thread gives an account of the double wire technique I settled on some time ago. I wouldn't do it any other way now. Most of the graphics show the effect with MDPC sleeving as well.


----------



## iamjanco

Systemlord said:


> I have a question regarding sleeving with MDPC sleeving on mobo cables/wires where they go from one and split into two wires, the sleeve slides off because there is nothing for the heatshrink to grab ahold.
> 
> I am using my own thicker gauge wires which has helped and have discarded the oem wires, but don't know what to do about the double wire debacle. It's been 8 years and I've never figured it out.


You're not alone. I've seen a lot of guys fidget with that using stuff that's typically marketed to the custom computer build crowd, often ending ending up with more or less mediocre results. An easier way to handle Y-splits might be to use the same methods a lot of custom audio cable makers use when making custom cables for their (e.g.) headphones. What you want to consider hunting for are *split cable heat shrink boots*, which a lot of those into high end audio use to pretty much do the same thing.

They're also known as *cable pants*, btw.

Here's an offsite thread about what I'm referring to which explains the idea somewhat:

*The Y-Split Thread*

A lot of those guys use covers for their y-splits, but the thread does provide a general idea of what I'm getting at.

@Himo5 edited: Himo5's post is another way of managing your y-splits, and more aligned with custom computer builds themselves.


----------



## Systemlord

I'm surprised no one has put together a kit with everything you need, because I'm not going on a months long treasure hunt for the right parts. I'd rather pay someone to do it for me using my MDPC sleeving, I got 300 feet.


----------



## FatherErickson

Extremely satisfied with my build. Took me many many months to get things right.


----------



## FatherErickson

Systemlord said:


> I'm surprised no one has put together a kit with everything you need, because I'm not going on a months long treasure hunt for the right parts. I'd rather pay someone to do it for me using my MDPC sleeving, I got 300 feet.


You can basically find everything you need on Titanrig.com


----------



## Ovrclck

So for someone lazy like myself. Who has the best prices on getting custom cables done?


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

iamjanco said:


> You're not alone. I've seen a lot of guys fidget with that using stuff that's typically marketed to the custom computer build crowd, often ending ending up with more or less mediocre results. An easier way to handle Y-splits might be to use the same methods a lot of custom audio cable makers use when making custom cables for their (e.g.) headphones. What you want to consider hunting for are *split cable heat shrink boots*, which a lot of those into high end audio use to pretty much do the same thing.
> 
> They're also known as *cable pants*, btw.
> 
> Here's an offsite thread about what I'm referring to which explains the idea somewhat:
> 
> *The Y-Split Thread*
> 
> A lot of those guys use covers for their y-splits, but the thread does provide a general idea of what I'm getting at.
> 
> @Himo5 edited: Himo5's post is another way of managing your y-splits, and more aligned with custom computer builds themselves.



From what I could see the cable pants union is too wide a diameter. The ones I’ve seen are meant for speaker wire, which can be pretty low gauge. I could be wrong on this though. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## yanks8981

FatherErickson said:


> Extremely satisfied with my build. Took me many many months to get things right.


Looks really nice. What kind of sleeve did you use? I ordered some new terminals and plan to start making my own custom wires and eventually sleeving them. I have the Corsair 280X case, so I can hide all of the cables in the PSU chamber, but the fun is making that look as nice as the main chamber IMO.


----------



## yanks8981

It looks like my CPU cable is 18 AWG stock. I havent looked at the others yet. Is that typical? Any reason to use 16 when creating custom?


----------



## Himo5

If you are making your own cables you should try to emulate the electronic effect of the existing cable set as far as possible. 
This is not to say that you can't use a heavier gauge - either to support a higher powered system or to fit some of the bulkier sleeving systems, such as MDPX, with the heavier wires that go with their 4mm sleeving. 
However, make sure that you have an accurate list of the gauges of the cable set supplied with your PSU. 
For example, the Seasonic KM3 cable set, which has been supplied with a lot of PSUs, has 18awg wires on all its cables, including the PCIE, CPU, SATA and MOLEX cables, but on the 24 pin cable the four monitor wires that come with each 18awg doubled wire are 22awg and the Blue -12Volt line from Pin 14 and the Grey PWR-OK line from Pin 8 are both 20awg. 
So if you were going to emulate that in your cable set but wanted to use a heavier gauge it would be a good idea to maintain those differentials, so you would use 20awg, 18awg and 16awg instead of 22/20/18. 
While many of the best sleeving suppliers use a heavier gauge plastic in their sleeving light, 3mm or even 2mm sleeving, such as SHAKMODS, can be a great advantage in smaller cases, which should make us grateful for the PSUs that still use 18awg wires.
When it comes to cable sets with capacitors things get far more complicated, with some advising you should just leave them off and others going to extreme lengths to match what is supplied. This is a case where I would use heavier gauge wires and leave the capacitors off in the hope that lessening the resistance in the wires would lessen the vdroop the capacitors were meant to quell.


----------



## Ovrclck

FatherErickson said:


> Extremely satisfied with my build. Took me many many months to get things right.


Very clean!


----------



## yanks8981

Himo5 said:


> If you are making your own cables you should try to emulate the electronic effect of the existing cable set as far as possible.
> This is not to say that you can't use a heavier gauge - either to support a higher powered system or to fit some of the bulkier sleeving systems, such as MDPX, with the heavier wires that go with their 4mm sleeving.
> However, make sure that you have an accurate list of the gauges of the cable set supplied with your PSU.
> For example, the Seasonic KM3 cable set, which has been supplied with a lot of PSUs, has 18awg wires on all its cables, including the PCIE, CPU, SATA and MOLEX cables, but on the 24 pin cable the four monitor wires that come with each 18awg doubled wire are 22awg and the Blue -12Volt line from Pin 14 and the Grey PWR-OK line from Pin 8 are both 20awg.
> So if you were going to emulate that in your cable set but wanted to use a heavier gauge it would be a good idea to maintain those differentials, so you would use 20awg, 18awg and 16awg instead of 22/20/18.
> While many of the best sleeving suppliers use a heavier gauge plastic in their sleeving light, 3mm or even 2mm sleeving, such as SHAKMODS, can be a great advantage in smaller cases, which should make us grateful for the PSUs that still use 18awg wires.
> When it comes to cable sets with capacitors things get far more complicated, with some advising you should just leave them off and others going to extreme lengths to match what is supplied. This is a case where I would use heavier gauge wires and leave the capacitors off in the hope that lessening the resistance in the wires would lessen the vdroop the capacitors were meant to quell.


Are all Seasonic PSUs 18 AWG? I have one thats probably 10 years old. I believe its an X650.


----------



## Himo5

Most ATX PSUs, especially from the lower and middle Wattage ranges, have always been fitted with mostly 18awg wires, but larger gauges can be found in more powerful premium series, so it pays to always get a multimeter and wire gauge and make your own pinout.


Remember that electrically speaking the supplied cable sets are probably better than anything you can make yourself because they have been made with industrial tools and subjected to proper quality control.


If you have a Seasonic Gold PSU you need to be careful which series it comes from. 
Most pinouts for it come from the later KM3 Series but there was an earlier KM2 Series that had the same ATX, SATA and MOLEX cables but the PCIE and CPU cables had the Live and Ground wires in reverse order and were fitted with a mixture of 8-Pin and 12-Pin connectors at the PSU end instead of just 8-Pin as in the KM3 set - I believe, but I'm not sure, that the KM1 PSUs were non-modular.


----------



## yanks8981

Himo5 said:


> Most ATX PSUs, especially from the lower and middle Wattage ranges, have always been fitted with mostly 18awg wires, but larger gauges can be found in more powerful premium series, so it pays to always get a multimeter and wire gauge and make your own pinout.
> 
> 
> Remember that electrically speaking the supplied cable sets are probably better than anything you can make yourself because they have been made with industrial tools and subjected to proper quality control.
> 
> 
> If you have a Seasonic Gold PSU you need to be careful which series it comes from.
> Most pinouts for it come from the later KM3 Series but there was an earlier KM2 Series that had the same ATX, SATA and MOLEX cables but the PCIE and CPU cables had the Live and Ground wires in reverse order and were fitted with a mixture of 8-Pin and 12-Pin connectors at the PSU end instead of just 8-Pin as in the KM3 set - I believe, but I'm not sure, that the KM1 PSUs were non-modular.


Is there a way to know if its KM2 or KM3? I was thinking of getting a new PSU since I have screwed around with these stock cables instead of keeping the originals and making new ones over the years. I notice that everywhere is out of PSUs currently, so I'll likely have to wait on that.


----------



## Himo5

If the PSU outlets for CPU and PCIE are 8-Pin then it is KM3, if they are 12-Pin it is KM2.
If you recognize your PSU in the image I posted you can reliably build a cable set from the image.


----------



## yanks8981

Where would I find the pinouts for Corsair PSUs? I was looking at replacing this one with the RMx series.


----------



## kgtuning

yanks8981 said:


> Where would I find the pinouts for Corsair PSUs? I was looking at replacing this one with the RMx series.



Modders inc has pinouts. Seach “Corsair rmx pinout” it’ll be a type 4 pinout. I used that pinout on my rm850x.


----------



## yanks8981

I am looking to cut the sata power connector off the corsair lighting node pro and crimp connectors on it and run it directly to my psu. What's the best way to know which wire is which voltage?


----------



## nyk20z3

I know the Phanteks Revolt Pro is built by seasonic but does any one know what model its based off of ?. I am trying to have custom cables done oppose to extension cables but unless the PSU is listed on there website then ModOne wont make cables for it.

Thanks in advance for any help


----------



## Doc1355

I didn't have enough free time the last 4 years but I recently started taking orders again, for custom sleeved cables!

I'll post more of them soon


----------



## Doc1355

Some Paracord sleeving too!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SteezyTN

Hi everyone, first time diving into custom sleeving. Im going to start off on extensions, then possibly make full length for my EVGA 850 P2. I'm seeing that they recommend to use a PSU tester to test the cables that are made to prevent damage done to the computer. Whats the cheapest and best quality tester that people use for this use?


----------



## Dante_son_of_sparda

yanks8981 said:


> I am looking to cut the sata power connector off the corsair lighting node pro and crimp connectors on it and run it directly to my psu. What's the best way to know which wire is which voltage?


Should be standard SATA since it uses a SATA cable right?
https://i.stack.imgur.com/HB4Mc.gif


----------



## Doc1355

SteezyTN said:


> Hi everyone, first time diving into custom sleeving. Im going to start off on extensions, then possibly make full length for my EVGA 850 P2. I'm seeing that they recommend to use a PSU tester to test the cables that are made to prevent damage done to the computer. Whats the cheapest and best quality tester that people use for this use?



A multimeter is a cheap way to check all of your custom cables.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## yanks8981

Dante_son_of_sparda said:


> Should be standard SATA since it uses a SATA cable right?
> https://i.stack.imgur.com/HB4Mc.gif


I believe this is correct. The only issue is the wire gauge used is likely 20, and its too small for ATX pins. I would need to solder thicker wire to the thinner wire in order to do this.


----------



## Doc1355

yanks8981 said:


> I believe this is correct. The only issue is the wire gauge used is likely 20, and its too small for ATX pins. I would need to solder thicker wire to the thinner wire in order to do this.



You can grab a SATA power to Molex adapter and change the Molex side with ATX pins/connector I guess?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## yanks8981

Doc1355 said:


> You can grab a SATA power to Molex adapter and change the Molex side with ATX pins/connector I guess?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Im not sure what you are suggesting. I can plug a sata power connector into the sata power adapter currently on the device to make it work like normal. I was simply looking to clean up the cabling by shortening the power cable for the commander pro and connecting it directly into the PSU using ATX connectors.


----------



## Doc1355

*Cable Sleeving Gallery &amp; Discussion*

Are all cables visible at the bottom of the case?
Does your case have a psu shroud?

As I can see your issue is that the node pro cable is too long making a cable spaghetti at the bottom of the case which is visible inside the case.

If so instead of soldering 2 types of awg cables together you can cut the node pro’s cable at the length that you want, crimp a new SATA power connector at the end and make your own 6pin to SATA power connector like in the photo with the correct length and plug your node pro on it 
so you don’t have any excess cables.












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Doc1355

*Cable Sleeving Gallery &amp; Discussion*

One more pc is ready for its happy user!!!

Full Direct PSU Handcrafted Custom Sleeved cables for EVGA SuperNova 750 G+

2700x ryzen
5700xt nitro sapphire
Asus x470 f-gaming
Corsair 3200mhz vengeance










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## FatherErickson

Made a new 24-pin this summer!


----------



## kgtuning

FatherErickson said:


> Made a new 24-pin this summer!


Nice! Looks great. Very clean rig you have there.


----------



## SteezyTN

First time custom sleeving full length cables for my EVGA 850 P2. Pretty happy with the outcome. Bought all products from mainframe customs.


----------



## Doc1355

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Doc1355

Full PSU set for HX1000 



















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Doc1355

I've been trying some ideas!


----------



## jvillaveces

Interesting! I still prefer the clean look of straight, parallel wires, but what you did is creative and original, and it sure looks different!


----------



## lowfat

Still have to finish wiring the LED strips. Plus will need to redo the GPU wires whenever the GTX 3070 shows up.


----------



## Doc1355

Perfect!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Barefooter

lowfat said:


> Still have to finish wiring the LED strips. Plus will need to redo the GPU wires whenever the GTX 3070 shows up.


Looks great lowfat! Haven't seen you around for awhile.


----------



## Gunderman456

@lowfat - very nice!


----------



## jvillaveces

lowfat said:


> Still have to finish wiring the LED strips. Plus will need to redo the GPU wires whenever the GTX 3070 shows up.



Lowfat, that is great work!


----------



## FatherErickson

lowfat said:


> Still have to finish wiring the LED strips. Plus will need to redo the GPU wires whenever the GTX 3070 shows up.


Very clean! Custom case?


----------



## lowfat

Barefooter said:


> Looks great lowfat! Haven't seen you around for awhile.


I've lurked this thread but that's about it. Not interested in water cooling no more and have other hobbies I'm following.


FatherErickson said:


> Very clean! Custom case?


Thanks. It is a 3d printed one of my design. 

It's an old pic, but it looks something like this.


----------



## FatherErickson

lowfat said:


> I've lurked this thread but that's about it. Not interested in water cooling no more and have other hobbies I'm following.
> 
> Thanks. It is a 3d printed one of my design.
> 
> It's an old pic, but it looks something like this.


3D printed?? Dang that's cool. It looked like steel in those other pictures.


----------



## lowfat

FatherErickson said:


> 3D printed?? Dang that's cool. It looked like steel in those other pictures.


Using aluminum extrusion for the basic frame. But everything else is 3d printed.


----------



## lowfat

Finished up the rig last weekend. 

5800X
Asus Prime X570 Pro
MSI Ventus 3X OC 3070
2x16GB G. Skill 3200 @ 3900 15-14-13-30-43-2T-GDM off
2 x 256GB Samsung 950 Pros
2.4TB FusionIO ioDrive Duo (dual 1.2TB) + 1.3TB ioScale. In a 3 drive RAID0
Silverstone ST1000G
2 x ESP8266 for LED control. Integrated in to my home automation software.



















The messy area for the LED controllers.


----------



## Doc1355

Great job man, congrats!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jvillaveces

That is absolutely amazing. The standard we should all aspire to!


----------



## 350 Malibu

Hey all, first off this is not a for sale ad, I'm looking for input. I have a bunch of rolls of MDPC sleeving, tons of microfit-jr connectors and some sleeving tools I'm going to sell as one big lot. Would there be any interest if I posted it in the classifieds on this site, or would I be better off tossing it on fleaBay? Not sure how much interest there is anymore in people doing their own sleeving.


----------



## Doc1355

350 Malibu said:


> Hey all, first off this is not a for sale ad, I'm looking for input. I have a bunch of rolls of MDPC sleeving, tons of microfit-jr connectors and some sleeving tools I'm going to sell as one big lot. Would there be any interest if I posted it in the classifieds on this site, or would I be better off tossing it on fleaBay? Not sure how much interest there is anymore in people doing their own sleeving.


If you where based in EU I would definitely be interested on buying many of them!


----------



## kyleblanc

Hey everyone! Working on making some extensions for my build, what would be the best way to test extensions? Multimeter? Would having extensions that are crimped incorrectly etc cause major issues to components? I’m being over cautious haha


----------



## Barefooter

kyleblanc said:


> Hey everyone! Working on making some extensions for my build, what would be the best way to test extensions? Multimeter? Would having extensions that are crimped incorrectly etc cause major issues to components? I’m being over cautious haha


Yes you can use a multimeter with a continuity tester.


----------



## LordSilver

Probably dumb question: which is the proper way to pry an inline SATA connector open? Is there a specific tool to make the job easier?


----------



## Himo5

It depends on the connector type; if it is something like the black connector you can usually find a slot in the cover to pry it off with a jewellers screwdriver, with the the more common white connector type if you bend the wires back you can hook the screwdriver under the cover flap.


----------



## BornInHell

hi i want know IWISS SN28B(CNC) and MDPC X CTX 3 CNC. what is better for crimping tool(female and male).


----------



## Himo5

BornInHell said:


> hi i want know IWISS SN28B(CNC) and MDPC X CTX 3 CNC. what is better for crimping tool(female and male).


Here in the UK the price becomes quite a stumbling block. The CTX3 MDPC crimper is over £40 while you can find the SN28B for less than £20. Personally I have always found the SN28B easier to work with as it has a less unforgiving spring, but if you master the CTX3 you can get a very much better result. I prefer the single action PA09 and PA21 Connector Pliers to both of them as they make a good result easier to achieve, especially if you are crimping in awkward, in-situ conditions for improved cable routing, but they are £40 each. 
In terms of the number of different connectors you can crimp the PA09/21 pair give the best range of all while the SN28B also covers the big 'MOLEX' peripheral power connectors in addition to the Mini-Fit-Jr, KK Fan and Dupont coverage of the CTX3.


----------



## BornInHell

Himo5 said:


> Here in the UK the price becomes quite a stumbling block. The CTX3 MDPC crimper is over £40 while you can find the SN28B for less than £20. Personally I have always found the SN28B easier to work with as it has a less unforgiving spring, but if you master the CTX3 you can get a very much better result. I prefer the single action PA09 and PA21 Connector Pliers to both of them as they make a good result easier to achieve, especially if you are crimping in awkward, in-situ conditions for improved cable routing, but they are £40 each.
> In terms of the number of different connectors you can crimp the PA09/21 pair give the best range of all while the SN28B also covers the big 'MOLEX' peripheral power connectors in addition to the Mini-Fit-Jr, KK Fan and Dupont coverage of the CTX3.


thank you very much. 🥰


----------



## Chicken Patty

lowfat said:


> Finished up the rig last weekend.
> 
> 5800X
> Asus Prime X570 Pro
> MSI Ventus 3X OC 3070
> 2x16GB G. Skill 3200 @ 3900 15-14-13-30-43-2T-GDM off
> 2 x 256GB Samsung 950 Pros
> 2.4TB FusionIO ioDrive Duo (dual 1.2TB) + 1.3TB ioScale. In a 3 drive RAID0
> Silverstone ST1000G
> 2 x ESP8266 for LED control. Integrated in to my home automation software.
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That is a thing of beauty, WOW!


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## lowfat

Chicken Patty said:


> That is a thing of beauty, WOW!


Unfortunately I designed that case before these massive GPU power hogs. So I couldn't fit new GPUs and didn't have enough power wires so I had to turf the case when I upgrade GPUs.

But IMO I did a better job on the Torrent I went with.





















































The 2nd GPU has since been removed since I mining died.


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## Chicken Patty

lowfat said:


> Unfortunately I designed that case before these massive GPU power hogs. So I couldn't fit new GPUs and didn't have enough power wires so I had to turf the case when I upgrade GPUs.
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That does indeed look stellar man. That all dark look is amazing, very elegant and subtle. Lovely work man. Should be very proud of it.


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