# [Official] Crossover 2795 QHD: PWM/Flicker Free Overclock-able Matte 1440p AH-IPS.



## Milamber

Are any of the these glossy?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Crossover-2795QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-Monitor-2560-x-1440-DVI-D-/141577457081?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item20f6ac8db9

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Perfect-Pixel-Crossover-2795QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-Monitor-2560-x-1440-DVI-D-/131431218267?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item1e99e93c5b

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Crossover-2795-QHD-LED-27-Monitor-DVI-D-2560x1440-AH-IPS-/271777187098?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item3f472ec51a


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## RAZZTA01

No one has ordered this model yet?


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## etherboy

I'm close to ordering one... torn between this and a 34"/29" UW.


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## Milamber

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAZZTA01*
> 
> No one has ordered this model yet?


yep, arrives this week


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## RAZZTA01

Excellent news! I hope to hear your impressions from this monitor! Maybe a review?
Where did you order it from?
Rgds.


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## Ized

Price works out at £212.07 delivered in less than a week?

Whats the catch o_0


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## bezzell

I can't get the review to translate. Will this thing hit 96hz?


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## MenacingTuba

Crossover only makes a matte version of the 2795QHD and overclocking always varies. These will likely do at least 100hz, but custom timings might be required to overclock to 120hz. Use this overclocking guide if too lazy to Google one.


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## Milamber

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Crossover only makes a matte version of the 2795QHD and overclocking always varies. These will likely do at least 100hz, but custom timings might be required to overclock to 120hz. Use this overclocking guide if too lazy to Google one.


Wouldn't custom timings be required anyway to get any overclock past 60hz?


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## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Milamber*
> 
> Wouldn't custom timings be required anyway to get any overclock past 60hz?


No.


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## BrookieDragon

I got my finger hovering over the "purchase now" button but really hesitant for a couple reasons.

Do we yet have anyone that can vouch that this thing will reach 100hz? I mean, this is more than advertised by Qnix for theirs, but we all know Qnix could hit 96 on their overclockables. This one is still a mystery in my mind?

How is the ghosting at 100hz?

How likely is it to get a comparable monitor to this (100+hz + 27 inches + sub 6mz speed) that also has g-sync within the next year or two AND under $400? It just seems like going for one of these might be a good step cause affordable g-sync seems way far off as they want to pump every dollar out of their new tech is possible?


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## lifesosian

anyone who bought it care to give some reviews?
how is the back light bleeding?
is the stand removable without opening the panel?
hows the overclocking results?


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## majikfx

I'm planning to buy this as well. I just had a look on youtube and it seems like this guy has it OC'd to 100hz?


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## supern00bcs

I got this model, but Control panel ID'd it as a "27QHD", which is a different model entirely...

Regardless, I got this overclocked at 105mhz stable


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## majikfx

Who did you buy it from? I've just ordered one from lovelypeople for 460AUD. I'll let you know when it arrives if it is the same in control panel. How was the backlight bleed and the flicker free aspect of it?


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## bezzell

Keep us updated.


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## majikfx

Okay! So my monitor arrived today. No dead pixels that I can notice and as far as I can tell, no backlight bleed. In the control panel it also says 27QHD and I've overclocked it to 110Hz and I could possibly hit 120Hz with another DVI cable.


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## Ized

May I ask if it produces any sort of electrical buzzing sounds while in a super quiet room?


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## majikfx

I can't hear anything personally and my computer is dead silent as well.


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## Profiled

Photos of PCB?


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## BrookieDragon

I got the Crossover 27qd yesterday (I still can't figure out the naming on this brand.)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U8LCRYI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Screen quality is perfect. Not a dead pixel. No noticeable bleed (though I play with lights on). And colors that I didn't know where possible on a monitor as I was using a 32inch samsung TV for the last 7 years.

And it took about 3 minutes to overclock it in Nvidia control panel. Got up to 115hz stable though backed it to 110. 120hz had artifacts.

BUT ~~

I have a huge gap in between the bottom bezel and the screen panel! Its like the screen itself got bent inwards. This means I can see the bottom black border of the screen panel if looking at it from any height. It does appear to have a ever so slight curve to it too.... I'm just worried about the screen dying or **** getting in between the bezel and screen and causing issues later.

Anyone have any ideas if this will be a problem later? Here's some pictures.


http://imgur.com/Lbbcb


I got 3 options:

1) Live with it, slight black border not really noticeable unless you know about it.

2) Attach a small clamp on the bottom of the screen to hold the bezel tighter to the screen. Immediately more noticeable but at the same time pretty much fixes the screen...and might be able to involve the clamp into some cable management or something.

3) Try to send it back (Amazon backing on it), which would likely ensure weeks of shipping there + a week to issue the return + weeks for them to ship it back (as they probably wouldn't use express mail like I initially ordered).

What yall think?


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## Ized

Well if that's the worst problem and everything else is perfect it sounds like you won the Korean Monitor Lottery.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=sticky+pad&rls=com.microsoft:en-GB:IE-Address&biw=1244&bih=921&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=Wg5yVd3iFOmv7AaLpoLoBA&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ#tbm=isch&q=double+sided+sticky+pad


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## Ized

"BIZBUY INTERNATIONAL" on Amazon claims they would issue a return label if I received a faulty unit. He even said "shipping is no big deal" (UK), main issue is Customs + TAX.

That's pretty interesting, I know a lot of people here have been shafted due to return costs.


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## llovro

Is it safe to say that this is the best 27 inch Korean monitor on the market? Which monitors have the same panel as 2795qhd?


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## majikfx

I don't have much experience in this korean monitor area but I gotta say that I'm impressed with this monitor. No flicker and no crazy motion blur, overclocked to 110 stable and also nice colors.


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## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majikfx*
> 
> I'm planning to buy this as well. I just had a look on youtube and it seems like this guy has it OC'd to 100hz?


That is NOT PROOF it is operating at 100Hz without dropping frames









75Hz/100Hz/120Hz are ALL Frame Skipping!









You need all solid blocks (frames) connected like in the 60Hz picture.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supern00bcs*
> 
> I got this model, but Control panel ID'd it as a "27QHD", which is a different model entirely...
> 
> Regardless, I got this overclocked at 105mhz stable
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *majikfx*
> 
> Okay! So my monitor arrived today. No dead pixels that I can notice and as far as I can tell, no backlight bleed. In the control panel it also says 27QHD and I've overclocked it to 110Hz and I could possibly hit 120Hz with another DVI cable.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *majikfx*
> 
> I don't have much experience in this korean monitor area but I gotta say that I'm impressed with this monitor. No flicker and no crazy motion blur, overclocked to 110 stable and also nice colors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

NO PROOF from anyone so far ...









Go to the QNIX/120Hz OP *HERE* --> "Overclocking Guide and Help" --> follow "Step 4" explicitly and post picture for "Validation"!









We had similar problems with varying QNIX/Yamakazi models being advertised to overclock to 120Hz *BUT they wouldn't without Dropping Frames* ...
See more examples/Info *HERE* ...


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## eamosterd

I just bought a crossover 2795 (or 27QHD), and have just succesfully overclocked it. I am by no means an expert, but I wanted to share my findings.










Here are some pictures takes by my phone (galaxy S6). It shows 95 Hz, 110 Hz and 120Hz, with all the block connected, which I believe makes it valid. Between 110 and 120 my screen seems to show a lot of crazy flickering lines all over the place (which you can see especially well in the green "valid" box). At 110 it seems to occasionally give me a flicker and 95 seems completely stable. I'll leave it at 110 for now, and see how it holds up.

If there is any more information somebody needs, please let me know what I can do to help. It looks like a majestic screen here on my desk.


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## majikfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eamosterd*
> 
> I just bought a crossover 2795 (or 27QHD), and have just succesfully overclocked it. I am by no means an expert, but I wanted to share my findings.
> 
> Here are some pictures takes by my phone (galaxy S6). It shows 95 Hz, 110 Hz and 120Hz, with all the block connected, which I believe makes it valid. Between 110 and 120 my screen seems to show a lot of crazy flickering lines all over the place (which you can see especially well in the green "valid" box). At 110 it seems to occasionally give me a flicker and 95 seems completely stable. I'll leave it at 110 for now, and see how it holds up.
> 
> If there is any more information somebody needs, please let me know what I can do to help. It looks like a majestic screen here on my desk.


Hey there! When I go to test flicker, mine is always stuck on 60 fps/60hz while my actual refresh rate is 110.. Anyway to fix that?


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## bezzell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eamosterd*
> 
> I just bought a crossover 2795 (or 27QHD), and have just succesfully overclocked it. I am by no means an expert, but I wanted to share my findings.
> 
> Here are some pictures takes by my phone (galaxy S6). It shows 95 Hz, 110 Hz and 120Hz, with all the block connected, which I believe makes it valid. Between 110 and 120 my screen seems to show a lot of crazy flickering lines all over the place (which you can see especially well in the green "valid" box). At 110 it seems to occasionally give me a flicker and 95 seems completely stable. I'll leave it at 110 for now, and see how it holds up.
> 
> If there is any more information somebody needs, please let me know what I can do to help. It looks like a majestic screen here on my desk.


Awesome


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## HICKFARM

Hmm, my Qnix QX2710 is in the mail at the moment. Think i made a mistake. I wasn't for sure if this Crossover 2795QHD was able to be overclocked without losing frames at the beginning of the week when I ordered the Qnix.

The only downside I have read on the Qnix is the PWM for the backlight when overclocking. I should of went with my gut and just bought this Crossover 2795 that i looked at from the beginning.
Hopefully I won't even notice the PWM flicker for the backlight. Either way it should be a lot better then the Dell U2410s i am using at the moment.


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## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HICKFARM*
> 
> Hmm, my Qnix QX2710 is in the mail at the moment. Think i made a mistake. I wasn't for sure if this Crossover 2795QHD was able to be overclocked without losing frames at the beginning of the week when I ordered the Qnix.
> 
> The only downside I have read on the Qnix is the PWM for the backlight when overclocking. I should of went with my gut and just bought this Crossover 2795 that i looked at from the beginning.
> Hopefully I won't even notice the PWM flicker for the backlight. Either way it should be a lot better then the Dell U2410s i am using at the moment.


You might be able to return the Qnix for one of these CrossOvers. Tell the seller.


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## HICKFARM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> You might be able to return the Qnix for one of these CrossOvers. Tell the seller.


The seller "accessorieswhole" doesn't seem to sell the Crossover 2795. The Qnix QX2710 apparently is waiting at my house right now, after work I will have to take a look at it and see how it is. Crazy 2 day shipping from Korea when I live in the Midwest United States.


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## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Profiled*
> 
> Photos of PCB?


I too would like to see some pics of the internals (PCB(s)) ... helps me decipher what we are truly dealing with ... Remember the Yamakazi Catleap fiasco?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eamosterd*
> 
> I just bought a crossover 2795 *(or 27QHD),* and have just succesfully overclocked it. I am by no means an expert, but I wanted to share my findings.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pictures takes by my phone (galaxy S6). It shows 95 Hz, 110 Hz and 120Hz, with all the block connected, which I believe makes it valid. Between 110 and 120 my screen seems to show a lot of crazy flickering lines all over the place (which you can see especially well in the green "valid" box). At 110 it seems to occasionally give me a flicker and 95 seems completely stable. I'll leave it at 110 for now, and see how it holds up.
> 
> If there is any more information somebody needs, please let me know what I can do to help. It looks like a majestic screen here on my desk.


Very nice, this is a start ... +R ... But I don't believe the 2795QHD *HERE* is the same as the 27QD (Blade) *HERE* ... so lets confirm you indeed have a 2795QHD ... your post (bold above) is confusing. Can you link us to your purchase site ... and/or have pics of the model #'s, better yet panel # (internal)?

NOTE: there is also a 27QW(SAKWA) model all using the same panel and single D-DVI connection but no advertised overclocks ... I've seen the 2795QHD advertised mostly for a 75Hz (Realclock) OC, but some sellers claim a 95Hz OC but none higher.

And lastly pictures don't lie, your blocks are connected, but must have been a very fast shutter speed because of the unusually low count of frames ... Hopefully more will chime in and confirm what this monitor can do









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HICKFARM*
> 
> Hmm, my Qnix QX2710 is in the mail at the moment. Think i made a mistake. I wasn't for sure if this Crossover 2795QHD was able to be overclocked without losing frames at the beginning of the week when I ordered the Qnix.
> 
> The only downside I have read on the Qnix is the PWM for the backlight when overclocking. I should of went with my gut and just bought this Crossover 2795 that i looked at from the beginning.
> Hopefully I won't even notice the PWM flicker for the backlight. Either way it should be a lot better then the Dell U2410s i am using at the moment.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HICKFARM*
> 
> The seller "accessorieswhole" doesn't seem to sell the Crossover 2795. The Qnix QX2710 apparently is waiting at my house right now, after work I will have to take a look at it and see how it is. Crazy 2 day shipping from Korea when I live in the Midwest United States.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't be bummed out yet ... as many more people do not suffer the effects of PWM dimming as the ones that do. I unfortunately am one of the unlucky ones that do react to PWM dimming ... Your right, all the more popular sellers seem to sell this panel except "accessorieswhole" ... let us know how it works out for you?


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## HICKFARM

I don't seem to be bothered by the PWM if it is using it @TomcatV. I can't seem to overclock it all though. Even a modest overclock of 72hz causes a lot of artifacting. I have tried several different timings that others of posted on the tutorials and no go. This is what i wrote on the Korean PLS thread.
Quote:


> Alright so my QNIX QX2710 arrived today and it looks great at 60HZ. No dead pixels and can't find any noticeable light bleed.
> 
> But I can't seem to overclock it at all. Following the tutorial on page 1 of the thread. I have an ATI 280X, newest drivers, installed qnix display driver, and have applied the patch for unlocking the clocks. Using DVI cable that came with display, but i do have a 24AWG cable in the mail from Amazon. I am using CRU tool and can set custom clock speeds. The only one that works at all is when I set it to a clock of 72. But this still has artifacting in it. When I try 96hz the screen just goes to staticy lines and can't make out anything. Also when set to 72hz the UFO test still only shows 60hz. Am I missing something here? I have been reading all week about these monitors and how to set them up, but I could of easily of missed something.
> 
> Oh and ebay seller's shipping was awesome. Arrived in 2 days from South Korea to Nebraska, was impressed.


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## NadavCE

I've ordered one of these off dream-seller, it should arrive until the 22nd. If you guys have any questions, write them here or PM me (I'd prefer a PM) and I'll do my best to answer them when I receive the monitor. In the meantime, does anyone know if these monitors have an easily removable stand- I.E. will I have to take apart the monitor, like the QX2710?


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## majikfx

To me it looks like you'll have to take apart the monitor to remove the stand. I'm not entirely sure, but come Wednesday I'm picking up an arm for this beast and I'll be having a better look.

*edit*
Also thought I'd post the UFO frame skip test for 96 and 110. When I go to 115 the screen flashes really fast which could probably give an epileptic a seizure (lucky I'm only mild). I'm not sure what I did different but I could do 115 and 120 before but now when I add the resolutions again I can't seem to get a stable (non flashing) display.

Anyway here are the 96 and 110Hz. Sorry for potato quality.


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## eamosterd

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by eamosterd View Post
> 
> I just bought a crossover 2795 (or 27QHD), and have just succesfully overclocked it. I am by no means an expert, but I wanted to share my findings.
> Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
> 
> Here are some pictures takes by my phone (galaxy S6). It shows 95 Hz, 110 Hz and 120Hz, with all the block connected, which I believe makes it valid. Between 110 and 120 my screen seems to show a lot of crazy flickering lines all over the place (which you can see especially well in the green "valid" box). At 110 it seems to occasionally give me a flicker and 95 seems completely stable. I'll leave it at 110 for now, and see how it holds up.
> If there is any more information somebody needs, please let me know what I can do to help. It looks like a majestic screen here on my desk.
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice, this is a start ... +R ... But I don't believe the 2795QHD HERE is the same as the 27QD (Blade) HERE ... so lets confirm you indeed have a 2795QHD ... your post (bold above) is confusing. Can you link us to your purchase site ... and/or have pics of the model #'s, better yet panel # (internal)?
> 
> NOTE: there is also a 27QW(SAKWA) model all using the same panel and single D-DVI connection but no advertised overclocks ... I've seen the 2795QHD advertised mostly for a 75Hz (Realclock) OC, but some sellers claim a 95Hz OC but none higher.
> 
> And lastly pictures don't lie, your blocks are connected, but must have been a very fast shutter speed because of the unusually low count of frames ... Hopefully more will chime in and confirm what this monitor can do biggrin.gif
Click to expand...

In that case I definitely bought the 2795QHD from dream-seller:http://www.ebay.com/itm/221708397727?rmvSB=true
My control panel calls it a 27QHD, so that's why I thought they were the same. On the back it says 2795QHD AHIPS LED.

About the stand, it does seem like you would have to take apart the monitor to remove it. It has a strange gel-like, transparant end that fits in the base. I actually haven't been able to put a screw in it to lock the stand to the base, but I'm not sure if I have to, because it already fits really well.

Also, I can confirm to have the exact same experience as majikfx. 96 to 110 Hz is good, 110 and up gives you an instant headache.

Lastly, I don't know if the fasts shutter speed is a good or a bad thing, but if there's anything I can do to help you (and maybe me by boosting my performance), let me know.


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## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eamosterd*
> 
> In that case I definitely bought the 2795QHD from dream-seller:http://www.ebay.com/itm/221708397727?rmvSB=true
> My control panel calls it a 27QHD, so that's why I thought they were the same. On the back it says 2795QHD AHIPS LED.
> 
> About the stand, it does seem like you would have to take apart the monitor to remove it. It has a strange gel-like, transparant end that fits in the base. I actually haven't been able to put a screw in it to lock the stand to the base, but I'm not sure if I have to, because it already fits really well.
> 
> Also, I can confirm to have the exact same experience as majikfx. 96 to 110 Hz is good, 110 and up gives you an instant headache.
> 
> Lastly, I don't know if the fasts shutter speed is a good or a bad thing, but if there's anything I can do to help you (and maybe me by boosting my performance), let me know.


That's the exact one I bought- same listing. How's it treating you?


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## asonenine

If anyone who owns the monitor has impressions of the coating used, I would greatly appreciate it. I'm generally a glossy guy...but unless I'm missing something, there aren't any glossy Korean monitors that can overclock worth buying. Lot of compelling things about this monitor for me besides the matte coating.

Hope the monitor is working out well for you guys!


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## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asonenine*
> 
> If anyone who owns the monitor has impressions of the coating used, I would greatly appreciate it. I'm generally a glossy guy...but unless I'm missing something, there aren't any glossy Korean monitors that can overclock worth buying. Lot of compelling things about this monitor for me besides the matte coating.
> 
> Hope the monitor is working out well for you guys!


According to NCX, the monitor is of the grain-free matte variety.


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## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HICKFARM*
> 
> I don't seem to be bothered by the PWM if it is using it @TomcatV. I can't seem to overclock it all though. Even a modest overclock of 72hz causes a lot of artifacting. I have tried several different timings that others of posted on the tutorials and no go. This is what i wrote on the Korean PLS thread.


No PWM effects







... Hmmm saw your post in the QNIX thread and DiceAir's reply was a good start. It's rare that *even the newer models* don't reach at least 96Hz, many will reach 110Hz ... try a "clean" driver install (remove all traces of your gpu / CRU / monitor drivers etc) and follow Lawson's OC guide linked here (OP) and my sig. If that doesn't work we'll need to try a friends rig (different setup) or swap out your GPU for testing to isolate the problem ... continued in the QNIX thread sorry for the highjack









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majikfx*
> 
> To me it looks like you'll have to take apart the monitor to remove the stand. I'm not entirely sure, but come Wednesday I'm picking up an arm for this beast and I'll be having a better look.
> 
> *edit*
> Also thought I'd post the UFO frame skip test for 96 and 110. When I go to 115 the screen flashes really fast which could probably give an epileptic a seizure (lucky I'm only mild). I'm not sure what I did different but I could do 115 and 120 before but now when I add the resolutions again I can't seem to get a stable (non flashing) display.
> 
> Anyway here are the 96 and 110Hz. Sorry for potato quality.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Right ON! ... more proof! +R









If this monitor only came in a glossy, my preference









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eamosterd*
> 
> In that case I definitely bought the 2795QHD from dream-seller:http://www.ebay.com/itm/221708397727?rmvSB=true
> My control panel calls it a 27QHD, so that's why I thought they were the same. On the back it says 2795QHD AHIPS LED.
> 
> About the stand, it does seem like you would have to take apart the monitor to remove it. It has a strange gel-like, transparant end that fits in the base. I actually haven't been able to put a screw in it to lock the stand to the base, but I'm not sure if I have to, because it already fits really well.
> 
> Also, I can confirm to have the exact same experience as majikfx. 96 to 110 Hz is good, 110 and up gives you an instant headache.
> 
> Lastly, I don't know if the fasts shutter speed is a good or a bad thing, but if there's anything I can do to help you (and maybe me by boosting my performance), let me know.


Nice, I suspected as much ... and at that price, this is looking like a worthy replacement for the QNIX "Matte" model! If you disassemble your monitor to remove the stand, please take pics of the PCB(s) including model #'s if you can get that tight, AND a pic of the panel model #


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## majikfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Nice, I suspected as much ... and at that price, this is looking like a worthy replacement for the QNIX "Matte" model! If you disassemble your monitor to remove the stand, please take pics of the PCB(s) including model #'s if you can get that tight, AND a pic of the panel model #


I hope I don't screw it up while taking it apart haha. I'll follow the QNIX guide because it looks similar


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## llovro

I'm probably going to order this monitor today and I'm just wondering which seller is it the best to order from? Also does any seller lower the value of the package?


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## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llovro*
> 
> I'm probably going to order this monitor today and I'm just wondering which seller is it the best to order from? Also does any seller lower the value of the package?


I ordered from dream-seller, he's a reputable seller that's been around since the first Catleap hype or so. I don't know if he lowers the value of the package though.


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## llovro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> I ordered from dream-seller, he's a reputable seller that's been around since the first Catleap hype or so. I don't know if he lowers the value of the package though.


Yeah, I know that he's a reputable seller. I'll send him a message about lowering the value.


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## llovro

I just ordered the 2795qhd from dream seller. I'll report back when I get it.


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## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llovro*
> 
> I just ordered the 2795qhd from dream seller. I'll report back when I get it.


Great. I'll do the same. Again, if there's anything you guys want me to cover, send me a PM. I can compare it to the Dell U2312HM (23", 1080P, 60Hz, IPS).


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## NullPointer

Hey guys, quick question since I can't find info on this anywhere. Is the Crossover 27QHD the same model as the 2795 QHD being referenced in this thread? Is it overclockable ? No info on this model anywhere which leads me to believe its the same one....


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## donvitos

So I just ordered a 980ti.. Arrives Wednesday. I want a nice 1440p monitor to go with it and found these Korean ones.. I see this monitor is a DVI-D dual link only..... And the 980ti does not have that port.

What's the story with that? Can I use a display port adapter? How can I get compatibility with a 980ti? Or am I forced to buy one of those Asus ROG Swifts or higher end monitors?

Any help is appreciated.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *donvitos*
> 
> So I just ordered a 980ti.. Arrives Wednesday. I want a nice 1440p monitor to go with it and found these Korean ones.. I see this monitor is a DVI-D dual link only..... And the 980ti does not have that port.
> 
> What's the story with that? Can I use a display port adapter? How can I get compatibility with a 980ti? Or am I forced to buy one of those Asus ROG Swifts or higher end monitors?
> 
> Any help is appreciated.


The 980Ti has a Dual-Link DVI-I port. There are 3 types of DVI: DVI-D (Digital), the rare DVI-A (Analog) and DVI-I (Integrated). This is how they all look: click. As the 980TI has a DVI-I port that contains the components for both DVI-D and DVI-A, you can use both cables and, therefore, output both signals. So you should be fine









TL;DR: The DVI-I ports contain all the components for DVI-D ports, and can be used as such.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NullPointer*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question since I can't find info on this anywhere. Is the Crossover 27QHD the same model as the 2795 QHD being referenced in this thread? Is it overclockable ? No info on this model anywhere which leads me to believe its the same one....


I can only make an educated guess, as some 2795s are identified as 27s by the Control Panel. However, the 2795QHD is a very new model, perhaps the newest Korean out there, and may use the same drivers/software- this does not necessarily mean that they are the same panel.

So, I think that the hardware used is different, but the drivers are identical/similar enough to confuse Windows.


----------



## NullPointer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> The 980Ti has a Dual-Link DVI-I port. There are 3 types of DVI: DVI-D (Digital), the rare DVI-A (Analog) and DVI-I (Integrated). This is how they all look: click. As the 980TI has a DVI-I port that contains the components for both DVI-D and DVI-A, you can use both cables and, therefore, output both signals. So you should be fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TL;DR: The DVI-I ports contain all the components for DVI-D ports, and can be used as such.
> I can only make an educated guess, as some 2795s are identified as 27s by the Control Panel. However, the 2795QHD is a very new model, perhaps the newest Korean out there, and may use the same drivers/software- this does not necessarily mean that they are the same panel.
> 
> So, I think that the hardware used is different, but the drivers are identical/similar enough to confuse Windows.


Thanks, I'm asking because others here have apparently ordered the 2795QHD and said that it is identified as 271HD which is leading me to believe it may be the same model. Also, it happens to be on sale right now from greensum which is a highly regarded seller over in the qnix thread so I decided to pull the trigger.

Anyways, for anyone else that is interested, here's the link to the sale:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-27QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-LG-IPS-2560X1440-QHD-Monitor-Matte-/141115538942?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20db243dfe

If anyone else has any info/thoughts/guesses, I'd love to hear it.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NullPointer*
> 
> Thanks, I'm asking because others here have apparently ordered the 2795QHD and said that it is identified as 271HD which is leading me to believe it may be the same model. Also, it happens to be on sale right now from greensum which is a highly regarded seller over in the qnix thread so I decided to pull the trigger.
> 
> Anyways, for anyone else that is interested, here's the link to the sale:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-27QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-LG-IPS-2560X1440-QHD-Monitor-Matte-/141115538942?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20db243dfe
> 
> If anyone else has any info/thoughts/guesses, I'd love to hear it.


After reading up a bit, I think I came to a conclusion:

Recently (a few months ago) a revised version of the Crossover 27QW and Crossover 2735AMG was released- the Crossover 27QW Sakwa. The Sakwa, according to NCX, has proper brightness controls and no PWM dimming.
This leads me to believe that the Crossover 2795QHD is a revised model of the 27QHD, with possibly better colour presets, more stable overclocking etc.


----------



## NadavCE

My monitor just got into customs- by the end of the week I should receive it.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NullPointer*
> 
> Thanks, I'm asking because others here have apparently ordered the 2795QHD and said that it is identified as 271HD which is leading me to believe it may be the same model. Also, it happens to be on sale right now from greensum which is a highly regarded seller over in the qnix thread so I decided to pull the trigger.
> 
> Anyways, for anyone else that is interested, here's the link to the sale:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-27QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-LG-IPS-2560X1440-QHD-Monitor-Matte-/141115538942?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20db243dfe
> 
> If anyone else has any info/thoughts/guesses, I'd love to hear it.


I came to a conclusion after reading up a bit.
Recently, a revised (no PWM dimming, proper brightness controls) version of the Crossover 27QW was released- the Crossover 27QW Sakwa. I think that some older monitors are now receiving an improved, refreshed re-release. I think that the 2795QHD is to the 27QHD what the Sakwa is to the 27QW.


----------



## blued

The 2795QHD is overclockable. All other crossover displays are not.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NullPointer*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question since I can't find info on this anywhere. Is the Crossover 27QHD the same model as the 2795 QHD being referenced in this thread? Is it overclockable ? No info on this model anywhere which leads me to believe its the same one....
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NullPointer*
> 
> Thanks, I'm asking because others here have apparently ordered the 2795QHD and said that it is identified as 271HD which is leading me to believe it may be the same model. Also, it happens to be on sale right now from greensum which is a highly regarded seller over in the qnix thread so I decided to pull the trigger.
> 
> Anyways, for anyone else that is interested, here's the link to the sale:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-27QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-LG-IPS-2560X1440-QHD-Monitor-Matte-/141115538942?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20db243dfe
> 
> If anyone else has any info/thoughts/guesses, I'd love to hear it.
Click to expand...

They may have the same panel (LG AH-IPS) but the 27QHD (older model?) may have a different PCB not allowing it to overclock without dropping frames ... only one way to know for sure and that is for you to follow the ufo test and take a picture.
For more info start *HERE* ... with my post just a couple pages back, and read carefully









The only model we have confirmed without dropping frames is the 2795QHD *HERE* ... Bigclothcraft another popular (QNIX)/reputable dealer also describes it as the 75Hz "Realclock" in it's title, the same as dream-seller (95Hz Realclock) and green-sum (75Hz Realclock) in the fine print descriptions ...









I hope you get lucky and prove us wrong but why would a seller (dream-seller)lower the price to undercut their own advertised overclock model if it would do the same thing? Please post your results








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> I came to a conclusion after reading up a bit.
> Recently, a revised (no PWM dimming, proper brightness controls) version of the Crossover 27QW was released- the Crossover 27QW Sakwa. I think that some older monitors are now receiving an improved, refreshed re-release. I think that the 2795QHD is to the 27QHD what the Sakwa is to the 27QW.


I think your on to something here and why I asked to see pics of the internals (PCB boards) from recent purchasers of the varying models ... many of us have been through this before especially with the Yamakazi Catleap and to a lesser degree with the QNIX/X-Star *HERE*


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> They may have the same panel (LG AH-IPS) but the 27QHD (older model?) may have a different PCB not allowing it to overclock without dropping frames ... only one way to know for sure and that is for you to follow the ufo test and take a picture.
> For more info start *HERE* ... with my post just a couple pages back, and read carefully
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only model we have confirmed without dropping frames is the 2795QHD *HERE* ... Bigclothcraft another popular (QNIX)/reputable dealer also describes it as the 75Hz "Realclock" in it's title, the same as dream-seller (95Hz Realclock) and green-sum (75Hz Realclock) in the fine print descriptions ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you get lucky and prove us wrong but why would a seller (dream-seller)lower the price to undercut their own advertised overclock model if it would do the same thing? Please post your results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think your on to something here and why I asked to see pics of the internals (PCB boards) from recent purchasers of the varying models ... many of us have been through this before especially with the Yamakazi Catleap and to a lesser degree with the QNIX/X-Star *HERE*


I'll probably take the monitor apart anyway to wall-mount it, so if you could tell me where exactly the PCB board is, and which photos to take, I'd be happy to.


----------



## NadavCE

I have received my monitor. Control Panel identifies it as a 27QHD, but it has proper brightness controls and overclocks to 110Hz (120 induces artifacting.) Blacks are very deep and colours are stunning. PM me or quote me if you have any questions at all.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> I'll probably take the monitor apart anyway to wall-mount it, so if you could tell me where exactly the PCB board is, and which photos to take, I'd be happy to.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> I have received my monitor. Control Panel identifies it as a 27QHD, but it has proper brightness controls and overclocks to 110Hz (120 induces artifacting.) Blacks are very deep and colours are stunning. PM me or quote me if you have any questions at all.
Click to expand...

Check out the QNIX disassembly videos *HERE* ... your internals (PCB/circuit boards) should be very similar









OR possibly even a better source would be the Catleap *HERE* ... under heading *"OC vs Non-OC Monitor Internals"* ... pretty clear pics of the differences between an overclockable PCB and one that is not









Note: your control panel may register a 110Hz overclock but it may be *"Dropping Frames"
* which makes the overclock worthless ... thoroughly read my links from the previous postings








And thanks for your patience and dedication +Rep


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Check out the QNIX disassembly videos *HERE* ... your internals (PCB/circuit boards) should be very similar
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OR possibly even a better source would be the Catleap *HERE* ... under heading *"OC vs Non-OC Monitor Internals"* ... pretty clear pics of the differences between an overclockable PCB and one that is not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note: your control panel may register a 110Hz overclock but it may be *"Dropping Frames"
> * which makes the overclock worthless ... thoroughly read my links from the previous postings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And thanks for your patience and dedication +Rep


Instead of taking the monitor apart (which I will do, as the stand is wobbly), I used the Frameskipping Test, and the results are quite pleasing.
I overclocked simply by going into the Nvidia Control Panel, and creating a custom resolution with 110Hz. That's all I did- however, the colour depth is 16-bit. Does anyone know how to solve this?

EDIT: Solved the issue, and here's a short guide on easy OC with Nvidia GPUs (I'm using a 660, maybe that has something to do with it).

1) Create a custom resolution in the Nvidia control panel. Set the resolution as 2560x1440, and the refresh rate to 96Hz. Leave the rest as it is. Apply and close Nvidia Control Panel.
2) Right click the desktop and click screen resolution.
3) Select the monitor you want to overclock and click it.
4) Click "Advanced settings".
5) Click "Monitor".
6) Set the refresh rate at 96Hz, and the colours as "True Colour (32-bit)".
7) Apply.

Done!


----------



## faaarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Instead of taking the monitor apart (which I will do, as the stand is wobbly), I used the Frameskipping Test, and the results are quite pleasing.
> I overclocked simply by going into the Nvidia Control Panel, and creating a custom resolution with 110Hz. That's all I did- however, the colour depth is 16-bit. Does anyone know how to solve this?
> 
> EDIT: Solved the issue, and here's a short guide on easy OC with Nvidia GPUs (I'm using a 660, maybe that has something to do with it).
> 
> 1) Create a custom resolution in the Nvidia control panel. Set the resolution as 2560x1440, and the refresh rate to 96Hz. Leave the rest as it is. Apply and close Nvidia Control Panel.
> 2) Right click the desktop and click screen resolution.
> 3) Select the monitor you want to overclock and click it.
> 4) Click "Advanced settings".
> 5) Click "Monitor".
> 6) Set the refresh rate at 96Hz, and the colours as "True Colour (32-bit)".
> 7) Apply.
> 
> Done!


Hey, I'm looking at grabbing this monitor for myself.

So you couldn't get higher than 96hz with 32-bit colour?


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faaarmer*
> 
> Hey, I'm looking at grabbing this monitor for myself.
> 
> So you couldn't get higher than 96hz with 32-bit colour?


Sorry, I should've clarified. I tested and verified 110Hz with 32-Bit colour. However, I couldn't set it through Nvidia Control Panel- I had to configure it through Windows itself. Also, I got some weird artifacts after an hour or so of using 110Hz, which vanished after I switched to 96Hz. I honestly don't mind, because I got a flawless monitor- no backlight bleed or dead pixels.


----------



## pastuch

Not sure about Nvidia cards but on the ATI overclock editor I usually change the back porch values which should let you get to 110+ I bet. At least it works on my Qnix with no lost frames.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastuch*
> 
> Not sure about Nvidia cards but on the ATI overclock editor I usually change the back porch values which should let you get to 110+ I bet. At least it works on my Qnix with no lost frames.


Thanks, but I'd rather stick to 96. Smooth enough, and less strain on the monitor.


----------



## faaarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Thanks, but I'd rather stick to 96. Smooth enough, and less strain on the monitor.


How's the stand on this? Bearable?


----------



## illest mc

I just got my 2795Q in the mail today. Unboxed it and plugged it into the wall and the little light in the lower right corner is red, not blue, and the buttons on the bottom don't bring up any type of menus or anything. HOWEVER, I haven't plugged it into a source with the DVI cable, just into the wall and turned it on. Reason being is because this is for my first PC build (I otherwise have a Macbook Pro) and I haven't gotten my GPU yet (I'm still waiting to snag that G1 Gaming 980 Ti).

Is the red light/no menus/no response from buttons a normal thing if the monitor isn't plugged into a source? Will the light turn blue once the monitor is plugged into a source and is receiving a signal? My biggest fear right now is that I got a dud and now I'm going to have to go through the whole RMA thing with a Korean eBay seller, which I am very much NOT looking forward to. If I'm ****ed and have to return this thing, does anyone else have any experience RMA'ing DOA monitors to Korean eBay sellers?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Instead of taking the monitor apart (which I will do, as the stand is wobbly), I used the Frameskipping Test, and the results are quite pleasing.
> I overclocked simply by going into the Nvidia Control Panel, and creating a custom resolution with 110Hz. That's all I did- however, the colour depth is 16-bit. Does anyone know how to solve this?
> 
> EDIT: Solved the issue, and here's a short guide on easy OC with Nvidia GPUs (I'm using a 660, maybe that has something to do with it).
> 
> 1) Create a custom resolution in the Nvidia control panel. Set the resolution as 2560x1440, and the refresh rate to 96Hz. Leave the rest as it is. Apply and close Nvidia Control Panel.
> 2) Right click the desktop and click screen resolution.
> 3) Select the monitor you want to overclock and click it.
> 4) Click "Advanced settings".
> 5) Click "Monitor".
> 6) Set the refresh rate at 96Hz, and the colours as "True Colour (32-bit)".
> 7) Apply.
> 
> Done!


We must have a failure to communicate? ... We need more proof of claimed overclocks NOT Dropping Frames especially between 96Hz-120Hz. Just because you can set an overclock in the NVCP does NOT make it so! ... Did you read my post *HERE* AND ALL the LINKS? (click on bold/blue "HERE" links)
Any experienced Korean panel overclocker wiil want to see a PICTURE of your testufo overclock to confirm your NOT Dropping/Skipping Frames! ... like eamostered *HERE* and majikfx *HERE* ... like this ...











So far we have only 2 confirmations, the more the better! My apologies if I missed your pics somewhere else?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illest mc*
> 
> I just got my 2795Q in the mail today. Unboxed it and plugged it into the wall and the little light in the lower right corner is red, not blue, and the buttons on the bottom don't bring up any type of menus or anything. HOWEVER, I haven't plugged it into a source with the DVI cable, just into the wall and turned it on. Reason being is because this is for my first PC build (I otherwise have a Macbook Pro) and I haven't gotten my GPU yet (I'm still waiting to snag that G1 Gaming 980 Ti).
> 
> Is the red light/no menus/no response from buttons a normal thing if the monitor isn't plugged into a source? Will the light turn blue once the monitor is plugged into a source and is receiving a signal? My biggest fear right now is that I got a dud and now I'm going to have to go through the whole RMA thing with a Korean eBay seller, which I am very much NOT looking forward to. If I'm ****ed and have to return this thing, does anyone else have any experience RMA'ing DOA monitors to Korean eBay sellers?


If this monitor has the same characteristics as the overclockable QNIX/X-Star/Cat2B your OK!








You need a "source" for the LED to go blue.


----------



## Je3nYu5

They are posted under the results link in the quoted post. Here is another link to the results: http://i.imgur.com/B6VOwMy.jpg


----------



## CloudEstacy

Interested in buying this monitor but have any of you guys experienced backlight bleeding for this model? It seems backlight bleeding is common in qnix.


----------



## faaarmer

Just ordered this monitor from dream-seller, thanks all for your help!


----------



## majikfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NullPointer*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question since I can't find info on this anywhere. Is the Crossover 27QHD the same model as the 2795 QHD being referenced in this thread? Is it overclockable ? No info on this model anywhere which leads me to believe its the same one....


Several people here see it as 27QHD(myself included). I guess it's safe to say that the 2795QHD is the same thing. I bought mine from lovelypeople and it's this link: Here


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faaarmer*
> 
> How's the stand on this? Bearable?


It's similar to the other Korean monitors- wobbly, but not terrible. It depends on your desk. Mine is super wobbly and the monitor swings around, so I will wall mount it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CloudEstacy*
> 
> Interested in buying this monitor but have any of you guys experienced backlight bleeding for this model? It seems backlight bleeding is common in qnix.


I'm probably just a lucky bas***d, but I received a monitor with no dead pixels, no backlight bleed and a stable 110Hz overclock with no frame skipping:



All in all, I think this is a higher-quality monitor than the Qnix (no PWM either







).


----------



## majikfx

When I overclock to 110Hz, I don't get any frame skipping but I do get this artefact with certain colours only on the right side of the screen. Can this have anything to do with the cable? It disappears when I take it back to 100Hz.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majikfx*
> 
> When I overclock to 110Hz, I don't get any frame skipping but I do get this artefact with certain colours only on the right side of the screen. Can this have anything to do with the cable? It disappears when I take it back to 100Hz.


It may have something to do with the cable, I'm not sure. DVI cables aren't exactly pricey, and from what I've read on the Qnix/Catleap threads the Monoprice 24AWG is a reliable cable that's decently priced.


----------



## doco

so any noticeable artifacts, gamma shifts, or red/blue lines appearing during long periods of use above 60hz? this monitor model might be a winner if it doesn't display those behaviors.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> so any noticeable artifacts, gamma shifts, or red/blue lines appearing during long periods of use above 60hz? this monitor model might be a winner if it doesn't display those behaviors.


I've been using it for a couple days now @96Hz, and no artifacting, gamma shifts or anything similar has showed up. It even has better pixel response times than my U2312HM. Frankly, I think this is the best single-input 1440p monitor, as it can overclock to at least 96Hz with no frame skipping, has great colour presets and pixel response times, and can be had for ~300$ U.S.


----------



## doco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> I've been using it for a couple days now @96Hz, and no artifacting, gamma shifts or anything similar has showed up. It even has better pixel response times than my U2312HM. Frankly, I think this is the best single-input 1440p monitor, as it can overclock to at least 96Hz with no frame skipping, has great colour presets and pixel response times, and can be had for ~300$ U.S.


that's great to hear. i forgot to mention does it have burn in issues with the panel overclocked? i know the QNIX had problems if the user had left the screen alone for a period of time. it was similar to how plasma TVs are if the screen was static for too long.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> that's great to hear. i forgot to mention does it have burn in issues with the panel overclocked? i know the QNIX had problems if the user had left the screen alone for a period of time.


I haven't noticed any burn-in (left it on my desktop for ~2 hours, maybe a bit more). However, I repeat- I did have issues with artifacting at 110Hz. They vanished when I went back down to 96Hz. This may be an issue with the cable, or I need to change pixel clocks (I just created a 96Hz custom resolution in Nvidia Control Panel and that was pretty much it).


----------



## majikfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> I haven't noticed any burn-in (left it on my desktop for ~2 hours, maybe a bit more). However, I repeat- I did have issues with artifacting at 110Hz. They vanished when I went back down to 96Hz. This may be an issue with the cable, or I need to change pixel clocks (I just created a 96Hz custom resolution in Nvidia Control Panel and that was pretty much it).


let me know how you go with the different cable as I too get minor artifacting at 110


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majikfx*
> 
> let me know how you go with the different cable as I too get minor artifacting at 110


Sadly, as I don't live in the U.S.and 96Hz is more than enough for me, I won't be ordering a different cable.


----------



## majikfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Sadly, as I don't live in the U.S.and 96Hz is more than enough for me, I won't be ordering a different cable.


ah okay that's fine then. Thought you might be getting one haha.


----------



## goodkeys

Has anybody tried to remove the anti-glare-coating on their Crossover 2795QHD? Currently there are no glossy, flicker free, and overclockable monitors on the market, so this might be an option for anybody who prefers glossy.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> that's great to hear. i forgot to mention does it have burn in issues with the panel overclocked? i know the QNIX had problems if the user had left the screen alone for a period of time. it was similar to how plasma TVs are if the screen was static for too long.


The Qnix (older panel) has image retention, not burn-in. Plasma TVs have burn-in. Image retention is temporary and goes away after time / once you set the monitor to 60Hz / both, while burn-in is permanent and stays there over the lifetime of the display.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Sadly, as I don't live in the U.S.and 96Hz is more than enough for me, I won't be ordering a different cable.


There is quite a visible difference between 96Hz and 110-120Hz. If you're able to snag a cable, do so by all means if it means a higher overclock.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> There is quite a visible difference between 96Hz and 110-120Hz. If you're able to snag a cable, do so by all means if it means a higher overclock.


Thanks for the advice, but I have no way of ordering a cable from Monoprice. The cable that came with the monitor is reliable and is still working well @96Hz. Anyway, my GTX 660 will hardly be able to push frames anywhere _near_ 96Hz in any recent game.

About that- I'm looking at new GPUs, and there are 2 options- the R9 290 and R9 390. The 290 Tri-X sells for 400$, and the 390 Nitro sells for 500$. Which should I pick, considering I don't want to upgrade again for as long as possible and the most demanding games I regularly play are Titanfall, Borderlands 2 and Battlefield 3?


----------



## faaarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Thanks for the advice, but I have no way of ordering a cable from Monoprice.


Hey mate, I also ordered mine from dream-seller early friday morning, did you receive a shipping notification? I've heard nothing yet, and was hoping it would be here soon


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faaarmer*
> 
> Hey mate, I also ordered mine from dream-seller early friday morning, did you receive a shipping notification? I've heard nothing yet, and was hoping it would be here soon


I'm sorry to hear that... I received a shipping notification two (or was it three?) days after ordering. You could contact dream-seller, but I'd wait a couple more days- it might be in processing.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodkeys*
> 
> Has anybody tried to remove the anti-glare-coating on their Crossover 2795QHD? Currently there are no glossy, flicker free, and overclockable monitors on the market, so this might be an option for anybody who prefers glossy.


Sorry for not replying to your previous post. No, I haven't, but I don't think it should be too difficult to do. Googke is your friend in this case


----------



## faaarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> I'm sorry to hear that... I received a shipping notification two (or was it three?) days after ordering. You could contact dream-seller, but I'd wait a couple more days- it might be in processing.


Thanks man. Downside of ordering over the weekend I suppose, as they arent business days. Oh well, obviously once they ship it it comes quickly.


----------



## goodkeys

NadavCE, can you compare the matte coating on the 2795qhd to a glossy screen? Is it agressive, or is it rather semi glossy? Could you even compare to plasma deposition coating? That would be awesome. I prefer glossy, but working in normal daylight conditions I don't know whether reflections would be a problem on the 27qw Sakwa (which uses pdc). Still undecided between the Sakwa (glossy, but doesn't overclock) and the 2795qhd (matte, but does overclock).


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodkeys*
> 
> NadavCE, can you compare the matte coating on the 2795qhd to a glossy screen? Is it agressive, or is it rather semi glossy? Could you even compare to plasma deposition coating? That would be awesome. I prefer glossy, but working in normal daylight conditions I don't know whether reflections would be a problem on the 27qw Sakwa (which uses pdc). Still undecided between the Sakwa (glossy, but doesn't overclock) and the 2795qhd (matte, but does overclock).


Fwiw, I have 2 glossies (catleap and Samsung s27a980d), a matte Qnix, and a PDC Yamakaso DS270. Normally I am all for glossy, but not all glossies are created equal.

The catleap glossy doesnt look as glossy as the S27a950d (the latter more striking, but its a TN). The Qnix matte looks great, but still prefer other coatings to it. The DS270 which is PDC, has the best image quality of all imo. Although its described as semi-glossy, it looks more glossy than the catleap, yet without strong reflections. Text razor sharp no matter how small, games look more vibrant and appealing than all the rest. But its not overclockable. Still I prefer IQ over all other considerations. I may go for a Sakwa myself which I hear has an improved version of PDC over the DS270.


----------



## goodkeys

Thanks for the input. How are the blacks on the DS 270? PDC is said to wash out blacks so they look greyish. In the end image quality is more important to me too than overclockability. And the Sakwa could probably become overclockable if you replace the pcb board. How are the reflections on the pdc Yamakasi in a normally bright room (normal daylight through window)?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodkeys*
> 
> Thanks for the input. How are the blacks on the DS 270? PDC is said to wash out blacks so they look greyish. In the end image quality is more important to me too than overclockability. And the Sakwa could probably become overclockable if you replace the pcb board. How are the reflections on the pdc Yamakasi in a normally bright room (normal daylight through window)?


Blacks on PDC are not as good as other monitors, but they are perfectly acceptable to me (.30 cd/m2 on DS270 vs .13 on catleap). Still prefer it over other monitors that have deeper blacks. Reflections are not a problem, thats the main characteristic of PDC, to give a clear, near glossy look without the reflections. The Sakwa is supposed to have slightly better blacks (or better version of PDC):


----------



## goodkeys

Thanks, .30 cd/m2 is definitely in the acceptable range. And glossy without cumbersome reflections - perfect. Plus PDC is also very good for image clarity, so that's another advantage. Under these conditions the 60Hz refresh rate is fine as I'm not a hardcore gamer.


----------



## ganron

Ordered Crossover 2795QHD from dream-seller.







Hopefully will get it next week.

Can anyone tell me how to remove the front glossy bezel for spray painting matte gray ??


----------



## goodkeys

Some last few questions about the Sakwa. While I thought the Crossover Sakwa is a glossy screen, the only seller I could find (dream-seller on ebay) states that it is matte:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-27SAKWA-27QW-LED-2560x1440-QHD-LG-AH-IPS-Computer-Monitor/221719496703?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150604093004%26meid%3Dcab479aa7eef4038af26f1ab49df6fde%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D321692890726&rt=nc

That's slightly confusing. Also, does anybody know a different place where the Sakwa can be bought? Dream-seller's offer is not too bad, but I'd rather have a better warranty. Would this offer be the Sakwa, or the older 27qw?

http://www.amazon.com/CROSSOVER-27QW-IPS-LED-2560x1440/dp/B00EZM7GCY


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodkeys*
> 
> Some last few questions about the Sakwa. While I thought the Crossover Sakwa is a glossy screen, the only seller I could find (dream-seller on ebay) states that it is matte:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-27SAKWA-27QW-LED-2560x1440-QHD-LG-AH-IPS-Computer-Monitor/221719496703?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150604093004%26meid%3Dcab479aa7eef4038af26f1ab49df6fde%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D321692890726&rt=nc
> 
> That's slightly confusing. Also, does anybody know a different place where the Sakwa can be bought? Dream-seller's offer is not too bad, but I'd rather have a better warranty. Would this offer be the Sakwa, or the older 27qw?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/CROSSOVER-27QW-IPS-LED-2560x1440/dp/B00EZM7GCY


I think best to continue Sakwa discussion over here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1558161/crossover-27qw-sakwa-glossy-or-matte


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodkeys*
> 
> NadavCE, can you compare the matte coating on the 2795qhd to a glossy screen? Is it agressive, or is it rather semi glossy? Could you even compare to plasma deposition coating? That would be awesome. I prefer glossy, but working in normal daylight conditions I don't know whether reflections would be a problem on the 27qw Sakwa (which uses pdc). Still undecided between the Sakwa (glossy, but doesn't overclock) and the 2795qhd (matte, but does overclock).


Sorry, but I don't have a glossy screen to compare it to. However, compared to my Dell U2312HM (which is also a matte coated display) the coating is practically non-existent. The Dell has a thick, _heavy_ matte coating that makes whites sparkle. The coating on the 2795QHD is much thinner, has no adverse effects on colour (compared to the 2013 Nexus 7 and the U2312HM) and still eliminates reflections. IMO this is the best type of coating- no colour degradation, punchy colours and minimal/no reflections.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodkeys*
> 
> Some last few questions about the Sakwa. While I thought the Crossover Sakwa is a glossy screen, the only seller I could find (dream-seller on ebay) states that it is matte:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-27SAKWA-27QW-LED-2560x1440-QHD-LG-AH-IPS-Computer-Monitor/221719496703?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150604093004%26meid%3Dcab479aa7eef4038af26f1ab49df6fde%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D321692890726&rt=nc
> 
> That's slightly confusing. Also, does anybody know a different place where the Sakwa can be bought? Dream-seller's offer is not too bad, but I'd rather have a better warranty. Would this offer be the Sakwa, or the older 27qw?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/CROSSOVER-27QW-IPS-LED-2560x1440/dp/B00EZM7GCY


I think it's correct to continue Sakwa-related discussion in the Sakwa thread, but I'll answer your questions anyway








The Sakwa is a glossy display and has Plasma Deposition Coating (covered nicely, as usual, by NCX: click).
TLR about Plasma Deposition Coating- a middle ground in reflectivity between glossy display and matte displays. It makes text look clearer and sharper, but degrades blacks to dark greys.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganron*
> 
> Ordered Crossover 2795QHD from dream-seller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully will get it next week.
> 
> Can anyone tell me how to remove the front glossy bezel for spray painting matte gray ??


Here's a guide (credit to Remmib): click.


----------



## ganron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Here's a guide (credit to Remmib): click.


Thanks NadavCE. I also use Dell U2312HM for Gaming/Photoshop & Movies and really hoping the crossover to be a noticeable upgrade.

I know gaming at 1440p 95hz+ means it's time to change my HD7870







, but for everything else do you think Crossover beats U2312HM ??


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganron*
> 
> Thanks NadavCE. I also use Dell U2312HM for Gaming/Photoshop & Movies and really hoping the crossover to be a noticeable upgrade.
> 
> I know gaming at 1440p 95hz+ means it's time to change my HD7870
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but for everything else do you think Crossover beats U2312HM ??


Honestly- the Crossover is better in every way. The coating is better, colours are more vibrant, and the real estate is really amazing. However, the biggest change was from 60Hz to 96Hz.

About upgrading your HD7870, it might be sufficient for what you're doing. What kind of games do you play, and at what settings do you expect to run them? I mean, I have a GTX 660 and it's fine for now. I'll probably sell it soon and get an R9 290 though


----------



## Swibble

Well I ordered one. My first IPS. I also upgraded to a GTX970 after like 5 years of HD6950 so it seems appropriate. I'm using a Samsung SA950 right now so I'm already used to high refresh rate.


----------



## faaarmer

I'm still waiting for dream-seller to actually tell me they've shipped it... ordered early morning last Friday and still nothing...
IMPATIENCE!


----------



## sonic2911

This one and the yamakasi catleap, which is better?


----------



## Yanoflies

Received mine yesterday.

No dead/stuck/bright pixels at all, no back-light bleeding (I'm on the lowest brightness though). Color representation isn't very good; might be getting myself a ColorMunki Display to fix this.

The only bad thing is that even at just 96Hz, I'm getting slight amounts of artifacts in games (GTX670).

Also, I have a "face" logo rather than the CrossOver text; not sure if I should complain about that.

EDIT:

Anyone have a color profile I could try?


----------



## ganron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Honestly- the Crossover is better in every way. The coating is better, colours are more vibrant, and the real estate is really amazing. However, the biggest change was from 60Hz to 96Hz.
> 
> About upgrading your HD7870, it might be sufficient for what you're doing. What kind of games do you play, and at what settings do you expect to run them? I mean, I have a GTX 660 and it's fine for now. I'll probably sell it soon and get an R9 290 though


Tht's good to know. I'm a casual gamer(FPS, RPG) and most of them at high settings so HD7870 should handle at 1440p. Like u , I'll sell them probably and get a R9-390.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yanoflies*
> 
> Received mine yesterday.
> 
> No dead/stuck/bright pixels at all, no back-light bleeding (I'm on the lowest brightness though). Color representation isn't very good; might be getting myself a ColorMunki Display to fix this.
> 
> The only bad thing is that even at just 96Hz, I'm getting slight amounts of artifacts in games (GTX670).
> 
> Also, I have a "face" logo rather than the CrossOver text; not sure if I should complain about that.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Anyone have a color profile I could try?


please share your product/seller link and also can you post a pic of the logo ?


----------



## Yanoflies

Excuse the horrible picture, it's a crop from a picture I sent on Viber yesterday lol.



Bought from dream-seller: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221708397727


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonic2911*
> 
> This one and the yamakasi catleap, which is better?


This monitor is certainly better, as the only variant of the Catleap that was overclockable was the 2B, and it has become very, very rare and expensive as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yanoflies*
> 
> Received mine yesterday.
> 
> No dead/stuck/bright pixels at all, no back-light bleeding (I'm on the lowest brightness though). Color representation isn't very good; might be getting myself a ColorMunki Display to fix this.
> 
> The only bad thing is that even at just 96Hz, I'm getting slight amounts of artifacts in games (GTX670).
> 
> Also, I have a "face" logo rather than the CrossOver text; not sure if I should complain about that.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Anyone have a color profile I could try?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yanoflies*
> 
> Excuse the horrible picture, it's a crop from a picture I sent on Viber yesterday lol.
> 
> 
> 
> Bought from dream-seller: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221708397727


That's really strange. I bought mine from dream seller as well and there's no artifacting (GTX 660) and I have a normal logo. About colour profiles- I used the built-in Windows calibration tool. I had to raise the gamma slightly, and the image was quite yellowish so I fixed that by lowering the Red and Green values a notch. Now colours look quite natural- obviously not as good as you would get after properly calibrating it with a ColorMunki or similar.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganron*
> 
> Tht's good to know. I'm a casual gamer(FPS, RPG) and most of them at high settings so HD7870 should handle at 1440p. Like u , I'll sell them probably and get a R9-390.


Honestly, unless you really need that extra VRAM (*heavily* modded games, or ultra settings at 4K) I would go for the 290, as there are only three differences between the 290 and 390:
1) The 390 has twice the VRAM.
2) The 390 has better tesselation performance.
3) Price. A decent 290 (Tri-X) can be had for ~260$, and the cheapest 390 costs ~330$.

It's your call whether or not those 70$ are worth the differences, but that's the main reason I'll probably get the 290 (if it'll still be sold by September).


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonic2911*
> 
> This one and the yamakasi catleap, which is better?


The Yamakasi is glossy (=clearer and more vibrant colours), but glows more when viewing dark content (S-IPS glow more than AH-IPS) and has a preset green tint while the Crossover is matte and has more neutral colours. S-IPS panels over-saturate green shades, and glossy versions are quite vibrant, but the green tint is pretty obvious even once calibrated compared to the first glossy PLS Qnix/X-Star (LTM270DL02 which over-saturates red, but is more neutral and glows less than the Yamakasi) and newer AH-IPS panels.


----------



## bezzell

I just received mine today from http://www.amazon.com/CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED/dp/B00TERTMI6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435174141&sr=8-1&keywords=crossover+2795

Ordered Sunday, received it Wednesday afternoon. Mine also has the weird cat face logo or whatever it is. The box and on the back of the monitor says Crossover 2795 QHD AIPS. Shows up as 27QHD in Control Panel.

Zero dead pixels, zero back light bleed, nice calibration out of the box to my eyes.

Overclocked to 96 and 110 without issue. 120hz gave me a green horizontal line occasionally. I did not install any monitor drivers. I simply created the custom profiles in NV Control Panel. The brightness or colors did not seem affected by any change in refresh rates. Photos of the frame skipping test showed zero frame skipping (all bars connected) at 96/110 and 120hz.

I have a new dvi-d cable (to retry 120hz) and monitor arm on the way. When I remove the chassis to remove the base for the arm, I'll take photos of the panel and pcb. I'll also post the frame skipping photos.

Very happy so far.


----------



## faaarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bezzell*
> 
> Very happy so far.


That's awesome, makes me very keen to receive mine (which has finally shipped!).
Just an FYI, you probably need a slower shutter speed for more definitive proof of not having frame skipping. I don't mind personally, but some people will ask (or nag) you for it, from what I've seen here haha.

Where did you order the new DVI cable from?


----------



## bezzell

Longer shutter speed.

I got this cable. http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-24AWG-Dual-DVI-D-Cable/dp/B003L11FIQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435208438&sr=8-1&keywords=monoprice+dvi-d

I don't have much hope for ithe cable affecting it overclocking wise , but we'll see. I need an extra anways.


----------



## faaarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bezzell*
> 
> Longer shutter speed


Bloody awesome. Impressive monitor by the looks of things!


----------



## SlvrDragon50

How discernible is the difference between 110 Hz and 144 Hz?

I have an LG ultrawide right now, but I'm in the market to pick up a second monitor around August. Look at picking up a 144 Hz 24" 1080P, but if the Crossover can overclock pretty well, I think I'll just pick up one of these since the price difference isn't too big, and I can maintain the 27" height.


----------



## Swibble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> How discernible is the difference between 110 Hz and 144 Hz?
> 
> I have an LG ultrawide right now, but I'm in the market to pick up a second monitor around August. Look at picking up a 144 Hz 24" 1080P, but if the Crossover can overclock pretty well, I think I'll just pick up one of these since the price difference isn't too big, and I can maintain the 27" height.


Probably not that big of a difference, there are diminishing returns, i.e. the difference between 120hz and 240hz is less noticeable than 60hz vs. 120hz. I mainly notice the benefits of my 120hz monitor in stuff like Quake 3 and that's an extreme use case. 110hz is a very high refresh rate.


----------



## roadlesstraveled

How different are the color vibrancy and coating on the 2795QHD compared to the 27QW Sakwa?


----------



## bezzell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faaarmer*
> 
> That's awesome, makes me very keen to receive mine (which has finally shipped!).


How did you fare?


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roadlesstraveled*
> 
> How different are the color vibrancy and coating on the 2795QHD compared to the 27QW Sakwa?


The Sawka is glossy, while the 2795QHD is semi glossy/light matte coated. The Sakwa has Plasma Deposition Coating- a coating glossier than matte, and not as glossy as the tempered glass monitors- which displays text and images best but makes blacks look gray.


----------



## roadlesstraveled

@NadavCE - thanks for the reply but I already knew that info from the thread on wecravegamestoo. I guess I'm just wondering how much _better_ (if at all) the colors look on the Sakwa compared to the 2795QHD. And how does the coating on the 2795QHD compare to the coating on an Asus VG248QE?


----------



## faaarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bezzell*
> 
> How did you fare?


Unfortunately, it didn't come before the weekend, so I'll definitely have it Monday going by the tracking. I'll let you know though! I'm very excited to play The Witcher 3 on it, after turning down the graphics settings a bit first.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roadlesstraveled*
> 
> @NadavCE - thanks for the reply but I already knew that info from the thread on wecravegamestoo. I guess I'm just wondering how much _better_ (if at all) the colors look on the Sakwa compared to the 2795QHD. And how does the coating on the 2795QHD compare to the coating on an Asus VG248QE?


Sorry, can't help you there.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faaarmer*
> 
> Unfortunately, it didn't come before the weekend, so I'll definitely have it Monday going by the tracking. I'll let you know though! I'm very excited to play The Witcher 3 on it, after turning down the graphics settings a bit first.


I hope you get it soon







Even at the lowest settings @~30-40FPS the game looks absolutely amazing.


----------



## TiTON

Ok folks, I've been following and enjoying this thread for a while. I have been eyeing a 1440p display for a while and wanted to get something that can do the high refresh rate. Just place my order with Dream Seller. Can't wait for the display to come in.

- Ton


----------



## faaarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Sorry, can't help you there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you get it soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even at the lowest settings @~30-40FPS the game looks absolutely amazing.


Got mine today (from dream-seller on ebay) and have played around with it. No dead pixels or backlight bleed, and overclocked easily to 110hz, but with very slight artifacting. The monitor feels really smooth even at 60hz too.

Very very nice monitor. Man, 1440p is nuts. Impressed with the build quality too, was expecting awful, but it's fine compared to my cheap and nasty LG 24".

Interestingly enough, my monitor also has the face logo instead of the Crossover text logo.


----------



## Omguo

just received mine from amazon.

Crossover text logo on the bezel, no face logo. There was a face logo on the box though.
no dead pixels, no backlight bleed.
haven't tried overclocking yet.


----------



## Swibble

Not sure what gods I angered to deserve this since everyone else got a great one. I even paid AU$500 for a "ultimate perfect pixel" with "strict checking" because I hate drama. Stupid me.


----------



## kardonxt

Sorry to see that Swibble, hopefully the seller can help you out.

Just to add to the list of sellers, I bought mine from BIZBUY on amazon and it has the face logo. Box also says a whole bunch of stuff that isn't true like hdmi and DP lol. I went with amazon because they are pretty good / bad about screwing their sellers if a customer is unhappy. I figured this was my best bet in case I ran into issues. Getting some minor artifacting at 96hz. will order a new cable soon


----------



## Golono

New user but a long time lurker here. I've kept an eye on the 1440p Korean monitors for a few years now. I almost bought the X-Star about a year ago after reading through dozens of pages on the Korean Monitor Club Thread but ultimately decided to hold off on it. Anyway, after getting sick of only having one monitor, I finally ordered the Crossover 2795. I have to give major props to a user over at the club thread for actually mentioning what new shoppers should be looking for on the club thread instead of the X-Star/Qnix models.

Having decided that I was going to buy the Crossover 2795, I now needed to find a seller. Before, I was willing to take my chances in the Korean Monitor lottery but with the intention to actually buy, I wanted to play it safe and so I decided to go for the much more expensive Ultimate Perfect Pixel option from bigclothcraft which guaranteed no dead or stuck pixels. There was another seller with the same policy for a few cents cheaper but I opted to go with a bigcloth since I have heard a lot of good things about them before and they had more feedback. Anyway, this is what I got:

As you can see, it arrived with a thin coat of soft packaging material around the box itself along with tape that could be used to lift the box.


Here's a side picture of the box once I open the material.


I threw the box on an old, beat-up scale that I had lying around. It's hard to see exactly where it landed but I zoomed in and took a close look it's between 15 & 16 so I'll call it 15.5 pounds.


Now for some box pics (I apologize for the blurriness):




What caught my eye immediately was the HDMI advertisement. I doubt that this is actually an attempt to deceive and I'm guessing that they probably actively swap the box designs and just left it in.


A look at the open hatch. The monitor has very thick styrofoam on the sides and a sheet of soft foam on the front of the screen. There is also a box that contains the accessories.


The smaller box contained a standard power cord, power brick, a dual-link DVI cable, and a two page manual written in that I assume is Korean.




Here's a view of the monitor's stand which is shipped unattached to the monitor.


A view of the bottom of the stand.


The monitor arrived with this screw attached to its leg which is what's used to attach the stand. It's relatively easy to unscrew and re-screw by hand.




A rubber circle with adhesive on one side was in the bag that contained the stand but I couldn't see a place for it anywhere.


The monitor on my desk but not yet on, I had to finish setting it up later that day.


60Hz Test passes. I tried 96 and 120Hz and the settings applied but my poor GTX 570 doesn't have the juice to go that far.


Here's a picture of the monitor with a pic off of google up. I don't have the best camera or pictures but this monitor looks amazing compared to my 1080p monitor which has washed out colors and lacks sharpness, in comparison. I was going to include a picture to show the nearly non existent backlight bleed but all of the pictures look very inaccurate and seem to add white spots where there are none visible by eye.



Overall, I'm very happy with this monitor, I love the quality of 1440p and some what regret not having come along sooner! Also have to give praise to bigclothcraft for delivering on a monitor that so far seems to be free of any dead/stuck pixels (I checked in fullscreen using the solid images at the commonly used Jason Farrell site and plan to check again)and has little to no backlight bleed.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Looks great! I'm really considering this instead of a 24" 144 Hz monitor.


----------



## Swibble

Honestly I could probably get over the dead pixels and just take a partial refund but the backlight bleed is ridiculously bad, it's like having a permanent daylight reflection in each corner. All they had to do was check it for 2 seconds before sending it across the sea, I don't get it at all. I'm not the one paying for all this shipping back and forth, and they might not even get a sale from me at all depending on their next message. Also is there supposed to be an onscreen menu with this model? Because if so that doesn't work either.


----------



## Golono

Just out of curiosity, which seller did you purchase the monitor from? I'm hoping that it wasn't bigcloth so that we hopefully have found a seller that actually checks the monitors sold as Ultimate Perfect Pixel. They actually took a few days to ship mine which they claim is done so at times in order to inspect the monitor before shipment.


----------



## Swibble

I ordered it from excellentcastle. The foam around your box is identical to that which was around mine so I'm guessing they have the exact same supplier and they don't check a damn thing, possibly they just use a distribution center and are never anywhere near the product. Maybe they sell enough that they just don't care about having to pay a bunch of shipping or having to deal with a used item they now possess.


----------



## roadlesstraveled

I was debating between the 2795QHD and the 27Sakwa. Even though I prefer the coating on the Sakwa I pulled the trigger on the 2795QHD due to the higher refresh rate. And to add to the list, I ordered through dream-seller.

I have a 24AWG DVI-D cable from Monoprice lying around so hopefully that'll help with the OC.


----------



## Golono

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swibble*
> 
> I ordered it from excellentcastle. The foam around your box is identical to that which was around mine so I'm guessing they have the exact same supplier and they don't check a damn thing, possibly they just use a distribution center and are never anywhere near the product. Maybe they sell enough that they just don't care about having to pay a bunch of shipping or having to deal with a used item they now possess.


It wouldn't surprise me, makes sense too. The sellers that have them up for ~$315 USD still have to be making a decent cut from what they spend on each monitor, considering the fact that shipping is free. They probably figure that the extra $70 will cover most of the time/shipping costs of dealing with any returns if most of the monitors are free of defects.

If that's the case, then I really did luck out in the monitor lottery. It sucks that you got a defective one but hey, look at the bright side, you can actually return it and they have to cover all of the associated costs with said return. The lower cost options would've left you at risk of being stuck with a monitor that is defective.

But yeah, as long as most of the monitors are free of defects which in turn keeps them profitable, they won't bother spending time inspecting them, assuming they don't.


----------



## bezzell

Mine came from Bizbuy on Amazon U.S. Came in same box and same foam wrapping, face logo bottom of the display.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Has anyone hit 120 Hz?

It seems like 110Hz is the upper limit.


----------



## bezzell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Has anyone hit 120 Hz?
> 
> It seems like 110Hz is the upper limit.


I hit 120hz with very minor artifacting. Still waiting on a new DVI-D cable to try again, and tighten timings.


----------



## roadlesstraveled

Just got my tracking information from dream-seller and the monitor will be here tomorrow! I was expecting it to arrive sometime next week so I'm pretty stoked


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bezzell*
> 
> I hit 120hz with very minor artifacting. Still waiting on a new DVI-D cable to try again, and tighten timings.


Hmm. When you see new DVI-D cable, are you just playing like a cable lottery or is there a specific cable that should get you the 120 Hz?

I would really like to pick up the Crossover, but if the 120 Hz isn't likely (like 75% chance of getting it), then I might just go after a 24" 144 Hz.


----------



## bezzell

Some people have reported a thicker gauge higher quality cable gets them a few more Hz, or will stabilize if you're close.

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-24AWG-Dual-DVI-D-Cable/dp/B003L11FIQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1435886806&sr=8-6&keywords=monoprice+24awg


----------



## TiTON

Hey Folks.. just got my monitor







That transit time for Korea to US was nominal.. almost like 2 days. But it took like 3 days for them to ship. Ordered it Monday and got it today

The display I received from Dream Seller has the face logo on the bezel and the stand is just utter crap. I need to find a better stand for this monitor.

Did some initial test with the monitor. I can run 105Hz w/ no problem. At 110hz, the displays artifacts slightly. At 113, the display is completey fuzzy.

Ran the frame skip test, and the blocks were solid









Very happy with the display for the price!! Thanks OC.Net for this thread!!

- Ton


----------



## SlvrDragon50

What cable are you using?


----------



## roadlesstraveled

Received my monitor yesterday and from what I can tell there are no dead pixels. There's hardly any backlight bleed except for the bottom left and right corners which are still acceptable. The default color profile is pretty good. However, the screen is slightly warped and bows inward so I'll most likely be returning the monitor for a replacement.

I was able to OC the monitor to 100Hz using a "normal" DVI-D cable (artifacting at 105Hz). I have a premium DVI-D cable but need to find a way to support the weight of the cable.

Pictures of the monitor:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## TiTON

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> What cable are you using?


I am using the DVI-D cable that came with the display. It was thicker then the DVI-D cable that I was using with my 22" 120Hz display.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roadlesstraveled*
> 
> I was able to OC the monitor to 100Hz using a "normal" DVI-D cable (artifacting at 105Hz). I have a premium DVI-D cable but need to find a way to support the weight of the cable.


Is there a Premium DVI-D cable? Could you link me to it?


----------



## NadavCE

Hey everyone, I was out camping for the past week- no electronics









I'm really happy to see how active the thread is, and how happy other people are after receiving their monitors.

Swibble, I'm really sorry to hear about your defective monitor. I'd be happy if you'd keep us updated









Roadless, it's great that you're satisfied with your choice (I think you made the right one









Ton- Monoprice's *24AWG* is generally considered to be a good DVI-D cable. I'd ask Roadless if there was a difference in the framerate.

Another topic- I'm probably going to snag myself a new GPU to replace my trusty GTX 660. Do you guys think the R9 390 is worth an extra 100$ over the 290?


----------



## roadlesstraveled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiTON*
> 
> Is there a Premium DVI-D cable? Could you link me to it?


Here you go: LINK


----------



## ganron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roadlesstraveled*
> 
> Received my monitor yesterday and from what I can tell there are no dead pixels. There's hardly any backlight bleed except for the bottom left and right corners which are still acceptable. The default color profile is pretty good. However, the screen is slightly warped and bows inward so I'll most likely be returning the monitor for a replacement.
> 
> I was able to OC the monitor to 100Hz using a "normal" DVI-D cable (artifacting at 105Hz). I have a premium DVI-D cable but need to find a way to support the weight of the cable.


I think it is to prevent Blacklight bleeding.
Quote:


> In case of back light bleeding
> In fact all monitors have back light bleeding, how much backlight bleed is acceptable is based on your personal preferences.
> Backlight bleeding does not harm the monitor in anyway. Please note that we do not reimburse for backlight bleeding by manufacturing process.
> We don't accept backlight bleeding as a defect.
> *We try our best to minimize backlight bleeding, making slight gap between the panel and the bezel is one of the way, therefore don't worry about that if you find the slight gap on your monitor.*


So you may return for a refund if not your replacement might as well end up like this. Anyone else has the same issue ?

I'm still waiting for mine to arrive, got struck with the customs (INDIA) and gonna cost a bomb as charges......so really hope for a good piece.


----------



## goodkeys

@roadlesstraveled I'd be very interested to hear how dream-seller handles this case. If it was the bezel that was bent that would probably be ok, but especially on the second picture it looks like the screen itself is warped. Would love to hear how dream-seller responds to this.


----------



## roadlesstraveled

@ganron - Ah, I didn't know that, thanks. The largest point of the gap is relatively substantial and is towards the right side of the monitor.

@goodkeys - The bezel is actually bowing outward while the screen is bowing inward. I don't mind that the bezel is bent, but it's extremely apparent that the screen is bent while using the monitor which I find annoying. I'll report back on Monday with dream-seller's response.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Hey everyone, I was out camping for the past week- no electronics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy to see how active the thread is, and how happy other people are after receiving their monitors.
> 
> Swibble, I'm really sorry to hear about your defective monitor. I'd be happy if you'd keep us updated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Roadless, it's great that you're satisfied with your choice (I think you made the right one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ton- Monoprice's *24AWG* is generally considered to be a good DVI-D cable. I'd ask Roadless if there was a difference in the framerate.
> 
> Another topic- I'm probably going to snag myself a new GPU to replace my trusty GTX 660. Do you guys think the R9 390 is worth an extra 100$ over the 290?


Definitely think so! Doubling the ram for only $100?


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Definitely think so! Doubling the ram for only $100?


100$ is a lot of money...









I don't want to upgrade anything in my rig after this, so the card will have to last for another 3-4 years. Will the extra VRAM help it last as long as possible?


----------



## Sottilde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> 100$ is a lot of money...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't want to upgrade anything in my rig after this, so the card will have to last for another 3-4 years. Will the extra VRAM help it last as long as possible?


Sure would. Especially if you want to do high-resolution gaming (you are in the Monitors section after all), that VRAM will be useful.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sottilde*
> 
> Sure would. Especially if you want to do high-resolution gaming (you are in the Monitors section after all), that VRAM will be useful.


Yeah, I'll be gaming on the @1440p/96Hz. Thanks for the help


----------



## Sottilde

TBH I don't think 4GB vs 8GB will do much for you at 1440p, but at 4k / eyefinity it would. But who knows, you may want to upgrade in the next year or two and it'd be nice to not have to replace your GPU too. So if it's about future-proofing and you can spare the $, go for it.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sottilde*
> 
> TBH I don't think 4GB vs 8GB will do much for you at 1440p, but at 4k / eyefinity it would. But who knows, you may want to upgrade in the next year or two and it'd be nice to not have to replace your GPU too. So if it's about future-proofing and you can spare the $, go for it.


There's no way I'm upgrading my monitor again- I haven't got the space / horsepower / $$$ to X-fire or SLI GPUs. I'll be sticking to 1440p/96Hz for the foreseeable future. If this is the case, should I still go for the 390?


----------



## TiTON

Hey Guys..

Ok.. I'm stuck.. not sure what the heck is going on, so I am hoping you guys can help me out.

Quick System Spec:
Asus X58 Sabertooth
Intel Xeon X5660 @ 4.4ghz
Crucial 24GB Ram
Radeon 7970 x 2 in CF
Acer B286HK (4k @ 60hz)
CrossOver 2795QHD (Smiley Face Edition)
Win 8.1 64bit

When I first got my 2795, I tried to increase the refresh rate via Screen Resolution > Advanced Settings > Monitor Settings > Screen Refresh rate. The only option there was 60Hz. So I went the CRU route.

1. Ran the ATIKMDAG-Patcher (reboot)
2. Ran CRU - Added Custom refresh (reboot)
3. Able to use custom refresh of 90 / 95 / 110
4. Tested new settings in UFO Blur Test (all good)

So here is when things went weird. I swapped DVI-D cable to see if I can go 115Hz and higher. No luck, which wasn't a big deal. Wanted to confirm the cables, before I purchased a "premium" DVI-D cable.

When I was set at 110Hz w/ the new cable, I noticed my windows were not moving as "smoothly". I thought that was odd. I ran the UFO Blur test, and it says my display was at 60Hz. Windows Screen res says I was at 110hz. No big deal. I figure the cable I used sucked, so I went back the original cable. Well.. same thing happened there. No matter what I do, I cannot get the higher refresh rate to perform at the set rate.

Last ditch effort, I ran Display Driver Uninstall and complete reloaded AMD Catalyst and CRU from scratch. Still.. I am stuck at 60Hz, even though the screen resolution says I am running higher.

Do you guys have any thoughts or suggestions?

- Ton


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiTON*
> 
> Hey Guys..
> 
> Ok.. I'm stuck.. not sure what the heck is going on, so I am hoping you guys can help me out.
> 
> Quick System Spec:
> Asus X58 Sabertooth
> Intel Xeon X5660 @ 4.4ghz
> Crucial 24GB Ram
> Radeon 7970 x 2 in CF
> Acer B286HK (4k @ 60hz)
> CrossOver 2795QHD (Smiley Face Edition)
> Win 8.1 64bit
> 
> When I first got my 2795, I tried to increase the refresh rate via Screen Resolution > Advanced Settings > Monitor Settings > Screen Refresh rate. The only option there was 60Hz. So I went the CRU route.
> 
> 1. Ran the ATIKMDAG-Patcher (reboot)
> 2. Ran CRU - Added Custom refresh (reboot)
> 3. Able to use custom refresh of 90 / 95 / 110
> 4. Tested new settings in UFO Blur Test (all good)
> 
> So here is when things went weird. I swapped DVI-D cable to see if I can go 115Hz and higher. No luck, which wasn't a big deal. Wanted to confirm the cables, before I purchased a "premium" DVI-D cable.
> 
> When I was set at 110Hz w/ the new cable, I noticed my windows were not moving as "smoothly". I thought that was odd. I ran the UFO Blur test, and it says my display was at 60Hz. Windows Screen res says I was at 110hz. No big deal. I figure the cable I used sucked, so I went back the original cable. Well.. same thing happened there. No matter what I do, I cannot get the higher refresh rate to perform at the set rate.
> 
> Last ditch effort, I ran Display Driver Uninstall and complete reloaded AMD Catalyst and CRU from scratch. Still.. I am stuck at 60Hz, even though the screen resolution says I am running higher.
> 
> Do you guys have any thoughts or suggestions?
> 
> - Ton


Sorry I can't help you more, as I'm using a Geforce and haven't encountered any of these issues...
It's a complete gamble at this point, but try to create a custom resolution @110Hz, and verify through Windows (right-click desktop -> screen resolution -> advanced settings -> monitor) that you are indeed running at 110 Hz.


----------



## TiTON

Hey NadavCE,

Yeah.. Geforce and AMD are different beast when coming to OC'ing the monitor. I actually found the problem / solution, which is really weird. Not sure if this is a known issue or not. Just going to post it here, so if anyone encounters this in the future.

Since I was running dual monitor, I unplugged my Acer 4k (via display port). So I only had the 2795QHD installed and detected. guess what.. It worked fine







I was running at 110Hz with no problems. Once I plugged the 4k display back in, the samething occurred. It would only do 60hz, but show 110 in the drivers.

I went ahead and made the 2795QHD the primary display, and that was it!! I was able to do 110Hz with dual display.

So for me, I just need to make the 2795QHD as the primary display.

- Ton


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiTON*
> 
> Hey NadavCE,
> 
> Yeah.. Geforce and AMD are different beast when coming to OC'ing the monitor. I actually found the problem / solution, which is really weird. Not sure if this is a known issue or not. Just going to post it here, so if anyone encounters this in the future.
> 
> Since I was running dual monitor, I unplugged my Acer 4k (via display port). So I only had the 2795QHD installed and detected. guess what.. It worked fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was running at 110Hz with no problems. Once I plugged the 4k display back in, the samething occurred. It would only do 60hz, but show 110 in the drivers.
> 
> I went ahead and made the 2795QHD the primary display, and that was it!! I was able to do 110Hz with dual display.
> 
> So for me, I just need to make the 2795QHD as the primary display.
> 
> - Ton


That's great, I'm glad you solved it! I'm jumping ship to AMD soon- I'll test and post results/methods here.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> 100$ is a lot of money...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't want to upgrade anything in my rig after this, so the card will have to last for another 3-4 years. Will the extra VRAM help it last as long as possible?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> There's no way I'm upgrading my monitor again- I haven't got the space / horsepower / $$$ to X-fire or SLI GPUs. I'll be sticking to 1440p/96Hz for the foreseeable future. If this is the case, should I still go for the 390?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sottilde*
> 
> TBH I don't think 4GB vs 8GB will do much for you at 1440p, *but at 4k / eyefinity it would*. But who knows, you may want to upgrade in the next year or two and it'd be nice to not have to replace your GPU too. So if it's about future-proofing and you can spare the $, go for it.


I agree with "Sottilde", his comments are very accurate ... +R









On the other hand there are times that I wished I'd gone with the 4GB 680GTX over the 2GB but only for ENB mods and some of the newer titles. Looking back I'm glad I saved the money overall because newer architecture combined with raw speed and overclockability always seem to trump capacity, hence the money saved put towards SLI. *At 1440p* you will rarely find 4GB not being sufficient for now and 2-3 years to come. But if you asked me 3 years ago that I'd be shopping for a minimum 6GB (980Ti) card now, I might have not taken you very seriously









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiTON*
> 
> Hey Guys..
> 
> Ok.. I'm stuck.. not sure what the heck is going on, so I am hoping you guys can help me out.
> 
> Quick System Spec:
> Asus X58 Sabertooth
> Intel Xeon X5660 @ 4.4ghz
> Crucial 24GB Ram
> Radeon 7970 x 2 in CF
> Acer B286HK (4k @ 60hz)
> CrossOver 2795QHD (Smiley Face Edition)
> Win 8.1 64bit
> 
> When I first got my 2795, I tried to increase the refresh rate via Screen Resolution > Advanced Settings > Monitor Settings > Screen Refresh rate. The only option there was 60Hz. So I went the CRU route.
> 
> 1. Ran the ATIKMDAG-Patcher (reboot)
> 2. Ran CRU - Added Custom refresh (reboot)
> 3. Able to use custom refresh of 90 / 95 / 110
> 4. Tested new settings in UFO Blur Test (all good)
> 
> So here is when things went weird. I swapped DVI-D cable to see if I can go 115Hz and higher. No luck, which wasn't a big deal. Wanted to confirm the cables, before I purchased a "premium" DVI-D cable.
> 
> When I was set at 110Hz w/ the new cable, I noticed my windows were not moving as "smoothly". I thought that was odd. I ran the UFO Blur test, and it says my display was at 60Hz. Windows Screen res says I was at 110hz. No big deal. I figure the cable I used sucked, so I went back the original cable. Well.. same thing happened there. No matter what I do, I cannot get the higher refresh rate to perform at the set rate.
> 
> Last ditch effort, I ran Display Driver Uninstall and complete reloaded AMD Catalyst and CRU from scratch. Still.. I am stuck at 60Hz, even though the screen resolution says I am running higher.
> 
> Do you guys have any thoughts or suggestions?
> 
> - Ton


Pretty thorough trouble-shooting ... +R







... My next move would be to go single monitor and disconnect the Acer, and see if you can't get your stable overclocks back. Time and again we have seen multi-monitor non homogeneous setups cause stable overclocking problems even more so with crossfire setups. I know it worked before and there is no rhyme or reason to it, but give it a try and then cautiously add your Acer back into the system









EDIT: Glad you figured it out ... semi-ninjaed, guess I shouldn't walk away for a long phone conversation when in the middle of a reply/comment


----------



## tonyeezy

Was really considering the X-star monitor, but the 2795QHD is $315 right now. Does anyone have both and can comment on the panel quality versus the two? Is the 2795QHD really worth it? I can't even find a non-gloss DP2710 right now as cheap, I expected them to be cheaper when I searched.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonyeezy*
> 
> Was really considering the X-star monitor, but the 2795QHD is $315 right now. Does anyone have both and can comment on the panel quality versus the two? Is the 2795QHD really worth it? I can't even find a non-gloss DP2710 right now as cheap, I expected them to be cheaper when I searched.


At this point, after multiple users buying and verifying the high panel quality, good chances of OC with no frame skipping and the fact that there isn't any PWM dimming, I wouldn't even consider any other single input matte monitor.


----------



## TiTON

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonyeezy*
> 
> Was really considering the X-star monitor, but the 2795QHD is $315 right now. Does anyone have both and can comment on the panel quality versus the two? Is the 2795QHD really worth it? I can't even find a non-gloss DP2710 right now as cheap, I expected them to be cheaper when I searched.


I agree with NadavCE. I've been waiting to pull the trigger on a 1440p w/ high refresh rate for gaming. Most of the other monitors out there are currently a crap shoot. This is currently the "it" display. I would get it before the batch changes, and the chance of getting a good one reduces.

- Ton


----------



## Myow

Hello,

I've been following this thread for about a week now, seems like the 2795QHD is the monitor of the moment but I've never bought Korean stuff on ebay before and I'm looking for a bit of enlightened advice on where to buy it before pulling the trigger.

I live in France and I don't want to have to send back a 7kg monitor all the way across the world. I have been thinking of buying it with dream-seller here (maybe the pixel-perfect version if it's not a scam) but bigclothcraft seems to have some kind of quality control on his pixel-perfect monitors, it's tempting even though they're more expensive.

PS: I am aware that the custom fees may be expensive where I live. But hey, 400€ would still a good deal compared to the price of other 1440p monitors here.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Myow*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I've been following this thread for about a week now, seems like the 2795QHD is the monitor of the moment but I've never bought Korean stuff on ebay before and I'm looking for a bit of enlightened advice on where to buy it before pulling the trigger.
> 
> I live in France and I don't want to have to send back a 7kg monitor all the way across the world. I have been thinking of buying it with dream-seller here (maybe the pixel-perfect version if it's not a scam) but bigclothcraft seems to have some kind of quality control on his pixel-perfect monitors, it's tempting even though they're more expensive.
> 
> PS: I am aware that the custom fees may be expensive where I live. But hey, 400€ would still a good deal compared to the price of other 1440p monitors here.


Mostly, there is no reason to buy a pixel-perfect model and here's why (it's been discussed here):

The pixel-perfect monitors are identical to the normal ones. The extra $$ you pay are usually enough to cover shipment, in case of a faulty monitor (which is uncommon anyway).

And about import charges... Where I live, they're 33% + some extra because the customs officials are corrupt.


----------



## Myow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Mostly, there is no reason to buy a pixel-perfect model and here's why (it's been discussed here):
> 
> The pixel-perfect monitors are identical to the normal ones. The extra $$ you pay are usually enough to cover shipment, in case of a faulty monitor (which is uncommon anyway).
> 
> And about import charges... Where I live, they're 33% + some extra because the customs officials are corrupt.


Thanks for your help, I've read things about the pixel-perfect monitor on the qnix threads but I was hesitating just because bigclothcraft says the following on his product page:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



We do strict test before shipping
- Dead pixel
- Serious light bleeding - All monitors may have light bleeding so we check "serious" light bleeding
- Function of button on monitor
- Power brick

This is PERFECT Pixel Monitor.
In our rule, this monitor may have 0-1 dead pixel.



But when you put it like that, I think it's still smarter to buy the regular version, so I guess I'll go with the cheapest from dream-seller and hope UPS does not charge me 100+€ for customs.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Myow*
> 
> Thanks for your help, I've read things about the pixel-perfect monitor on the qnix threads but I was hesitating just because bigclothcraft says the following on his product page:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> We do strict test before shipping
> - Dead pixel
> - Serious light bleeding - All monitors may have light bleeding so we check "serious" light bleeding
> - Function of button on monitor
> - Power brick
> 
> This is PERFECT Pixel Monitor.
> In our rule, this monitor may have 0-1 dead pixel.
> 
> 
> 
> But when you put it like that, I think it's still smarter to buy the regular version, so I guess I'll go with the cheapest from dream-seller and hope UPS does not charge me 100+€ for customs.


Usually, Korean sellers don't ship using UPS- they use EMS.


----------



## pastuch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bezzell*
> 
> I hit 120hz with very minor artifacting. Still waiting on a new DVI-D cable to try again, and tighten timings.


Reduce the backporch value, bet it hits 120!


----------



## TiTON

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastuch*
> 
> Reduce the backporch value, bet it hits 120!


Please elaborate


----------



## dan1234

Been lurking and watching this thread, finally pulled the trigger! Mine arrived today, ordered last week Monday from dream-seller (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/321719207934). I went for the perfect pixel as it was only $20 more. It has the face logo on the monitor.

I can't find any dead pixels, and there doesn't seem to be any backlight bleed, which is awesome. I'm new to this overclocking monitor thing, so I'm playing around with that. It seems to do 105hz fine, but has some minor lines appear occasionally at 110hz, which is as high as I've tried (with the stock cable). I haven't tried the 24AWG Monoprice cable I have yet, as I got a 3ft one and it doesn't quite reach with my setup. I'll test with that cable when I feel like moving stuff around.

The bad is that none of the buttons on the monitor work except for the power button, which is quite disappointing... I keep poking them hoping they will magically start responding. My eyes still hurt from the full brightness while I was looking for a program to adjust it. I found something and it works. Not sure if I want to bother to go through an exchange for this issue, as I have no pixel or backlight issues, which would be a bigger problem.

Anyway, thanks for all the info in this thread! If anyone has any questions or wants any pictures, let me know. I'll update once I try the better cable and get a better grasp on what I'm doing with the overclock.

Any thoughts on the buttons? I've sent a message to dream-seller to see what they say.


----------



## bezzell

The buttons on mine work, but there is no on screen display. Also, you can manage color settings and brightness/contrast in nvidia control panel if you've got a nvidia card. I would imagine the same with AMD.


----------



## htlif

This monitor has a strange problem in which after powering up, the brightness starts at about 30cd/m2 brighter than set, and _slowly_ drops down (might be my sample, though). Still, a good monitor despite that and the absence of hardware RGB controls.
I've only managed to hit 110Hz, as expected. Reports of results with different cables will be appreciated


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dan1234*
> 
> Been lurking and watching this thread, finally pulled the trigger! Mine arrived today, ordered last week Monday from dream-seller (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/321719207934). I went for the perfect pixel as it was only $20 more. It has the face logo on the monitor.
> 
> I can't find any dead pixels, and there doesn't seem to be any backlight bleed, which is awesome. I'm new to this overclocking monitor thing, so I'm playing around with that. It seems to do 105hz fine, but has some minor lines appear occasionally at 110hz, which is as high as I've tried (with the stock cable). I haven't tried the 24AWG Monoprice cable I have yet, as I got a 3ft one and it doesn't quite reach with my setup. I'll test with that cable when I feel like moving stuff around.
> 
> The bad is that none of the buttons on the monitor work except for the power button, which is quite disappointing... I keep poking them hoping they will magically start responding. My eyes still hurt from the full brightness while I was looking for a program to adjust it. I found something and it works. Not sure if I want to bother to go through an exchange for this issue, as I have no pixel or backlight issues, which would be a bigger problem.
> 
> Anyway, thanks for all the info in this thread! If anyone has any questions or wants any pictures, let me know. I'll update once I try the better cable and get a better grasp on what I'm doing with the overclock.
> 
> Any thoughts on the buttons? I've sent a message to dream-seller to see what they say.


The buttons (labelled BL and arrows pointing up and down) do indeed work, but there is no indication or OSD.


----------



## highwind01

I just got my 2795QHD from Dream-seller today, upgrading from a Dell U2311H

- I couldnt find any dead pixels on a quick check I did which makes me very happy, because I just bought a "normal" one (no "pixel perfect" or whatever they offer for more dollars)

- The illumination looks very homogenously, atleast in these early evening light conditions which we currently have - I will recheck that matter this night but my Dell had a quite large backlight bleeding area in the lower left corner that was clearly visibly even in normal daylight conditions

- From my subjective view the color reproduction on my Dell was very warm and the Crossover is colder and probably more to a state that one would call "natural"... but as I dont really care for photographs or image processing I hadnt calibrated either

- I followed the instruction for overclocking the framerates with my R9 280 and went directly to 96Hz which seemed to be a success, if I interpret the attached snapshots correctly




Overall I am very pleased with this monitor
The stand is very "wobbly", but as I will fetch a seperate vesa mount for height adjustment and pivot anyway, this isnt a problem for me.
The bezels could be a little bit smaller aswell, but jeah, I guess you will always find "something"...
For the given pricepoint this thing is nothing less than awesome!


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *highwind01*
> 
> I just got my 2795QHD from Dream-seller today, upgrading from a Dell U2311H
> 
> - I couldnt find any dead pixels on a quick check I did which makes me very happy, because I just bought a "normal" one (no "pixel perfect" or whatever they offer for more dollars)
> 
> - The illumination looks very homogenously, atleast in these early evening light conditions which we currently have - I will recheck that matter this night but my Dell had a quite large backlight bleeding area in the lower left corner that was clearly visibly even in normal daylight conditions
> 
> - From my subjective view the color reproduction on my Dell was very warm and the Crossover is colder and probably more to a state that one would call "natural"... but as I dont really care for photographs or image processing I hadnt calibrated either
> 
> - I followed the instruction for overclocking the framerates with my R9 280 and went directly to 96Hz which seemed to be a success, if I interpret the attached snapshots correctly
> 
> *snip*
> 
> Overall I am very pleased with this monitor
> The stand is very "wobbly", but as I will fetch a seperate vesa mount for height adjustment and pivot anyway, this isnt a problem for me.
> The bezels could be a little bit smaller aswell, but jeah, I guess you will always find "something"...
> For the given pricepoint this thing is nothing less than awesome!


That's awesome! It's great to see another satisfied user.

Could you link the guide you used to OC, please? For AMD users (also because I'm jumping ship soon).


----------



## TiTON

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> That's awesome! It's great to see another satisfied user.
> 
> Could you link the guide you used to OC, please? For AMD users (also because I'm jumping ship soon).


Here is a link on how to overclock AMD and nVIDIA on OC.net. http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club/0_50

Quick Summary:
1. Install ToastyX Pixel Clock Patcher
2. Install ToastyX Custom Resolution Utility
3. Using Custom Resolution Utility and create custom Refresh rates

Hit me up if you have any questions.

- Ton


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dan1234*
> 
> Been lurking and watching this thread, finally pulled the trigger! Mine arrived today, ordered last week Monday from dream-seller (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/321719207934). I went for the perfect pixel as it was only $20 more. It has the face logo on the monitor.
> 
> I can't find any dead pixels, and there doesn't seem to be any backlight bleed, which is awesome. I'm new to this overclocking monitor thing, so I'm playing around with that. It seems to do 105hz fine, but has some minor lines appear occasionally at 110hz, which is as high as I've tried (with the stock cable). I haven't tried the 24AWG Monoprice cable I have yet, as I got a 3ft one and it doesn't quite reach with my setup. I'll test with that cable when I feel like moving stuff around.
> 
> The bad is that none of the buttons on the monitor work except for the power button, which is quite disappointing... I keep poking them hoping they will magically start responding. My eyes still hurt from the full brightness while I was looking for a program to adjust it. I found something and it works. Not sure if I want to bother to go through an exchange for this issue, as I have no pixel or backlight issues, which would be a bigger problem.
> 
> Anyway, thanks for all the info in this thread! If anyone has any questions or wants any pictures, let me know. I'll update once I try the better cable and get a better grasp on what I'm doing with the overclock.
> 
> Any thoughts on the buttons? I've sent a message to dream-seller to see what they say.


Lots of guys had similar brightness button (+/-) problems (not responding) on their Qnix/X-Star's and they found if they held the button depressed for an exaggerated amount of time they could get the brightness to adjust.

NOTE: There is no OSD and the power button and the 2 (+/-) brightness buttons are the only ones that work.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiTON*
> 
> Here is a link on how to overclock AMD and nVIDIA. http://www.blurbusters.com/overclock/120hz-1440p-ips-monitors/ Scroll down til you see the "How to Overclock" section
> 
> Quick Summary:
> 1. Install ToastyX Pixel Clock Patcher
> 2. Install ToastyX Custom Resolution Utility
> 3. Using Custom Resolution Utility and create custom Refresh rates
> 
> Hit me up if you have any questions.
> 
> - Ton
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pastuch*
> 
> Reduce the backporch value, bet it hits 120!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TiTON*
> 
> Please elaborate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

That is a pretty outdated guide, for example in NadaVCE's case with a single 660 he wouldn't even need the pixel clock patcher at all! Some of us started a separate OC thread *HERE* (it's also linked by MTuba in the OP (1st page) and my Sig) and will also get into timing's ... back porch etc etc ... read in depth there is a lot of good info in there


----------



## highwind01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> That's awesome! It's great to see another satisfied user.
> 
> Could you link the guide you used to OC, please? For AMD users (also because I'm jumping ship soon).


I used the guide TomcatV linked to and just followed the steps under "Amd card owners overlclocking method" and added my own 96Hz @ 1440p resolution.
For now I am very satisfied with the fast and easy 96Hz overclock as I am quite busy currently - I will get deeper into that topic the next weekend and we will see if I can achieve the "magical 120"

In the meantime I leave you a picture taken at night in a dark room with only the mouse cursor in the middle



Sorry for the bad picture quality (Budget China Mobilephone camera which doesnt take the best pictures, especially in low light conditions) but I think you get the point... although there is a little bit of bleeding in each corner I think this is pretty descent result - to be honest, it looks better in reality than on the picture I took


----------



## TiTON

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> That is a pretty outdated guide, for example in NadaVCE's case with a single 660 he wouldn't even need the pixel clock patcher at all! Some of us started a separate OC thread *HERE* (it's also linked by MTuba in the OP (1st page) and my Sig) and will also get into timing's ... back porch etc etc ... read in depth there is a lot of good info in there


Its great to see that there is a guide on here. I will update my post to reflect the newer link.

Your are totally right, it makes no sense for NavavCE to use pixel clock patcher with his single 660. He was just inquiring on when he changes from nvidia to AMD. I will look through the guide for the back porch settings.

- Ton


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *highwind01*
> 
> I used the guide TomcatV linked to and just followed the steps under "Amd card owners overlclocking method" and added my own 96Hz @ 1440p resolution.
> For now I am very satisfied with the fast and easy 96Hz overclock as I am quite busy currently - I will get deeper into that topic the next weekend and we will see if I can achieve the "magical 120"
> 
> In the meantime I leave you a picture taken at night in a dark room with only the mouse cursor in the middle
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the bad picture quality (Budget China Mobilephone camera which doesnt take the best pictures, especially in low light conditions) but I think you get the point... although there is a little bit of bleeding in each corner I think this is pretty descent result - to be honest, it looks better in reality than on the picture I took


Cameras usually make bleed waaaaaaay worse than it really is! Let us know how your higher overclocks go!


----------



## Swibble




----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swibble*


Yes, why?


----------



## Swibble

It's meant to be practically invisible blue. This artifact happens on gradients all over the place and it's driving me crazy in photoshop.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swibble*
> 
> It's meant to be practically invisible blue. This artifact happens on gradients all over the place and it's driving me crazy in photoshop.


Ah. You learn something new every day.


----------



## sgtsloth

Question about this monitor. Is it true that it cannot be run on Intel HD graphics? I ask because I am worried what will happen if my GPU kicks the can for whatever reason.

Has anyone tried an HDMI to DVI converter? Just curious to know if it would work in any way. Thanks.


----------



## roadlesstraveled

Here's the reply I just got from dream-seller:

Quote:


> Hello, We well checked all your pictures and detail. and I sincerely apologize for any inconvenience. After looking into the situation, I came up with the suggestion. so the screen is bent, but there's no problem with monitor itself, right? then what if we offer you a partial refund around $50 as a compensation on condition that you just keep using the monitor? ... Let us know your opinion about our suggestion!


Still debating on what to do... Also, I paid the extra $20 for the "Perfect" monitor.


----------



## dainfamous

Does anyone have a take on this monitor/seller?

Is this the one that's been talked about on these threads?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-27QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-LG-IPS-2560X1440-QHD-Monitor-Matte/141115538942?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D29980%26meid%3D4d1d7f1b6c0242c3a6d704ac884ce37d%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D221111368687&rt=nc

Looking for input as I may just cancel my triple monitor mount I just ordered for this.

Thanks!


----------



## bezzell

Different model.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roadlesstraveled*
> 
> Here's the reply I just got from dream-seller:
> 
> Still debating on what to do... Also, I paid the extra $20 for the "Perfect" monitor.


That's up to you man.

How badly does it affect games/videos? Can you live with it?

I think you should be able to ask for more like 75-100.


----------



## roadlesstraveled

@SlvrDragon50 It bugs the hell outta the OCD side of me, but it's useable. And yea, I'm gonna ask for $100 back. I've thought about trying to bend it back but don't want to end up damaging the monitor.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> That's up to you man.
> How badly does it affect games/videos? Can you live with it?
> I think you should be able to ask for more like 75-100.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *roadlesstraveled*
> 
> @SlvrDragon50 It bugs the hell outta the OCD side of me, but it's useable. And yea, I'm gonna ask for $100 back. I've thought about trying to bend it back but don't want to end up damaging the monitor.
Click to expand...

I agree ... $75 bare minimum ... $100 is fair and I wouldn't settle for less!
I also think you are perfectly within your rights to ask for a new monitor and dream-seller pays the return freight!

How does a perfect pixel "strict testing" monitor with that kind of a defect get out the door








THEY DON'T REALLY CHECK ... As I and many others have said for years "Perfect Pixel" is a scam to offset return shipping costs ... dream-seller is a pretty "Wheel-N-Deal" outfit to put it nicely and he has realized how much an effect the OCN forums has on his business, heck the QNIX/X-Star thread alone made them pretty wealthy ...and they would much rather have a happy customer here on OCN than a disgruntled one ... So do what is best for you and don't be afraid to be aggressive even to the point of "threatening?" to open a case w/ebay-paypal if you're not satisfied!


----------



## majikfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swibble*


Am i not supposed to be able to see the text? I would have thought that was a good thing as before in photoshop I couldn't distinguish that color from the white (old monitor) and so I made ****ty pictures and wallpapers that look bad on this new monitor.


----------



## highwind01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgtsloth*
> 
> Question about this monitor. Is it true that it cannot be run on Intel HD graphics? I ask because I am worried what will happen if my GPU kicks the can for whatever reason.
> 
> Has anyone tried an HDMI to DVI converter? Just curious to know if it would work in any way. Thanks.


Depends:
The Intel HD Graphics DVI-Port is only single-link, not dual-link, so 1920x1200 at 60Hz maximum and iirc the HDMI-Port on Intel HD has the same limitation, so a converter wouldnt help.
The Displayport on Intel HD however does support 2560x1440 at 60Hz, but I dont know if Displayport to DVI converter works with the monitor and I dont know if Intel HD is able to be set higher than 60Hz either


----------



## ganron

Received my Crossover yesterday. Paid 150$ as customs charges. (INDIA)
Bought from dream_seller
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321719207934?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Didn't notice any Dead pixel/backlight bleeding. [/B]. Brightness controls & power button works as expected and has face logo on the frame.

Below are the screenshots at 95Hz & 100Hz.(Stock DVI cable - AMD HD7870).





Noticed slight green artifact at 100Hz and at 110Hz, monitor has weird artifacts - becomes unusable..
Thinking of ordering Monoprice DVI cable, also need to tweak settings with CRU utility. Will look at them later.

Compare to my old Dell U2312HM (TFTCentral ICC profile) this one has great colours out of the box, but still needs calibration. For Ex: Blacks looks like grey.

Does anyone uses colorimeter and possibly share your calibrated ICC profile for this monitor ?? I know each one is different but the TFTcentral worked well for my Dell.

Overall I'm extremely happy with the purchase. Thanks everyone.


----------



## subz3ro

Would it be worth it to grab the perfect version for $20 more? Do they actually check the monitors?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subz3ro*
> 
> Would it be worth it to grab the perfect version for $20 more? Do they actually check the monitors?


I actually worry about receiving pixel perfect panels. If its perfect pixel, why was it graded lower (From A to A-)? It may have other defects that could be worse than a few dead pixels. I once received a pixel perfect Catleap but later found it had a uniformity issue in the center of the screen. Only shows up on certain desktop color backgrounds, but think that may have had to do with its lower grade. So not sure how much trust I place on pixel perfect monitors. Of course you may receive a great panel, just dont have faith in any consistency with it.


----------



## goodkeys

My 27QW arrived today. I haven't checked it thoroughly, but it works fine, no dead/stuck pixels I could see, and backlightbleeding seems to be in the acceptable range (only affecting two corners, only visible on black screen).

However I can't manage to remove the stem of the stand. There are two screws holding it in place, and no matter how hard I try they won't budge. Here's a video showing the process:






Has anybody else experienced this? Any tips on how these seemingly unmovable screws can be removed?


----------



## tonyeezy

I see some of you buying the monitor are having to pay customs fees? People ordering in the US (from dream-seller for ex) are there any other fees associated with the price on there? He has them for $315 with free shipping, is that it or is there an extra cost? May be pulling the trigger on it soon.


----------



## subz3ro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonyeezy*
> 
> I see some of you buying the monitor are having to pay customs fees? People ordering in the US (from dream-seller for ex) are there any other fees associated with the price on there? He has them for $315 with free shipping, is that it or is there an extra cost? May be pulling the trigger on it soon.


I just ordered one yesterday from dreamseller, I am very excited to try it out. I bought the pixel perfect version because if it means I have a higher chance of getting a better monitor, then $20 more is worth it. Not sure if it's true, but whatever. There are no fees as a buyer, customs has to do with shipping to certain countries. All you pay is the price that's shown.


----------



## TheSwede86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subz3ro*
> 
> I just ordered one yesterday from dreamseller, I am very excited to try it out. I bought the pixel perfect version because if it means I have a higher chance of getting a better monitor, then $20 more is worth it. Not sure if it's true, but whatever. There are no fees as a buyer, customs has to do with shipping to certain countries. All you pay is the price that's shown.


I would just chime in and say that even though that the seller i.e. "dream-seller" does not charge any additional fees, at least here in Sweden you have to pay tax, an additional charge for shipping if the package is handled by the Swedish Postoffice and not DHL etc. and I believe sometimes an additional administration fee for Customs. The total amount of these fees has sometimes been reported to be as high as $110 / £75. So even though what you pay to "dream-seller" is the price in the listing (if it is "Buy it now") your total amount before you have it and can start use it can vary depending on your countries rules and laws, what price the seller has stated the package has to your countrys custom and so on.

Thinking about this one (Crossover 2795QHD) instead of the Qnix QX2710 and thinking about the non-PixelPerfect option, do you guys agree that this one is the better choice? Seems to be the consensus, at least in this thread.

Thanks in advance for your reply.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSwede86*
> 
> I would just chime in and say that even though that the seller i.e. "dream-seller" does not charge any additional fees, at least here in Sweden you have to pay tax, an additional charge for shipping if the package is handled by the Swedish Postoffice and not DHL etc. and I believe sometimes an additional administration fee for Customs. The total amount of these fees has sometimes been reported to be as high as $110 / £75. So even though what you pay to "dream-seller" is the price in the listing (if it is "Buy it now") your total amount before you have it and can start use it can vary depending on your countries rules and laws, what price the seller has stated the package has to your countrys custom and so on.
> 
> Thinking about this one (Crossover 2795QHD) instead of the Qnix QX2710 and thinking about the non-PixelPerfect option, do you guys agree that this one is the better choice? Seems to be the consensus, at least in this thread.
> 
> Thanks in advance for your reply.


I'm back









Now, as I said before- there is no reason to consider another matte, single input 1440p display besides the Crossover 2795QHD because it has no real downsides (apart from the odd defective unit)- guaranteed 96Hz, good colours, no PWM dimming and IIRC it's currently the cheapest monitor (after the Qnix/X-Star).

About customs- I got screwed really bad, I had to cough up an extra *175$ U.S.*. This isn't dream-seller's fault, the customs and taxes where I live are ridiculous.


----------



## TheSwede86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> I'm back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I said before- there is no reason to consider another matte, single input 1440p display besides the Crossover 2795QHD because it has no real downsides (apart from the odd defective unit)- guaranteed 96Hz, good colours, no PWM dimming and IIRC it's currently the cheapest monitor (after the Qnix/X-Star).
> 
> About customs- I got screwed really bad, I had to cough up an extra *175$ U.S.*. This isn't dream-seller's fault, the customs and taxes where I live are ridiculous.


Thank you for your reply







. Would you guys recommend purchasing a better stand directly or is the stand that comes with the monitor "good enough"?


----------



## ganron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSwede86*
> 
> Thank you for your reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Would you guys recommend purchasing a better stand directly or is the stand that comes with the monitor "good enough"?


The stand comes with the monitor is not good at all. Wobbly and the TILT function it supports also not as smooth as other monitors.


----------



## TheSwede86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganron*
> 
> The stand comes with the monitor is not good at all. Wobbly and the TILT function it supports also not as smooth as other monitors.


Thanks for your quick reply. Might pick this up at the same time, too bad "dream-seller" does not sell any stands at all (and man, stands are expensive):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX-27-Mount-Stand-Pivot-Tilt-Elevation-Swivel-VESA-100x100-for-27-QX2710-/121694531268?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c558f2ec4


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSwede86*
> 
> Thanks for your quick reply. Might pick this up at the same time, too bad "dream-seller" does not sell any stands at all (and man, stands are expensive):
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX-27-Mount-Stand-Pivot-Tilt-Elevation-Swivel-VESA-100x100-for-27-QX2710-/121694531268?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c558f2ec4


Honestly, the stand isn't too bad- unless you have a wobble table (like me). I got this wall mount with my U2312HM a while back, and will be using it to mount the 2795QHD. You guys want pics and instructions on how to mount the monitor/remove the stand?


----------



## goodkeys

NadavCE instructions with pics would be awesome. I'm stuck right now with removing the stem of the stand. The two screws holding it won't budge even if I apply full force with the screwdriver. Maybe I'm missing something. Instructions would be appreciated.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodkeys*
> 
> NadavCE instructions with pics would be awesome. I'm stuck right now with removing the stem of the stand. The two screws holding it won't budge even if I apply full force with the screwdriver. Maybe I'm missing something. Instructions would be appreciated.


Forgot pics....









Those screws were very stubborn- they broke one of my screwdrivers! Chipped the metal right off. You should used a thick screwdriver that won't break easily and a *lot* of force.

Instructions here: click. I followed them to the letter and everything is OK


----------



## goodkeys

Thanks, did follow the instructions too, and indeed those two screws are stubborn. I used an extra sturdy screwdriver of the right size, used all my force, and absolutely nothing happened. The screws don't move even a fraction of a milimeter. Don't know what my options are now. Drilling out the screws? Saw the stupid stand off?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodkeys*
> 
> Thanks, did follow the instructions too, and indeed those two screws are stubborn. I used an extra sturdy screwdriver of the right size, used all my force, and absolutely nothing happened. The screws don't move even a fraction of a milimeter. Don't know what my options are now. Drilling out the screws? Saw the stupid stand off?


Try heating them with a glue gun or something.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodkeys*
> 
> Thanks, did follow the instructions too, and indeed those two screws are stubborn. I used an extra sturdy screwdriver of the right size, used all my force, and absolutely nothing happened. The screws don't move even a fraction of a milimeter. Don't know what my options are now. Drilling out the screws? Saw the stupid stand off?


Start working out?









Seriously though, I'm stumped.


----------



## goodkeys

Are the screws glued in? Otherwise heating would not help - the metal screws would expand more than the plastic and thus sit even tighter. Still I tried it already. Sadly to no avail.

A work out wouldn't hurt







I'm a bit baffled as well. Never before experienced screws of dread like these.


----------



## haru3173

Do US buyers also get charged with custom fees? I live in california


----------



## kapone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodkeys*
> 
> Are the screws glued in? Otherwise heating would not help - the metal screws would expand more than the plastic and thus sit even tighter. Still I tried it already. Sadly to no avail.
> 
> A work out wouldn't hurt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a bit baffled as well. Never before experienced screws of dread like these.


Are these reverse threaded by any chance?


----------



## goodkeys

It's possible, though all the other screws are not. I tried to move them in both directions in an attempt to loosen them. But they're not giving way neither left nor right. Tonight I'll try again to heat them, maybe it gives a bit of a wiggle room when they cool down again. Other than that I'll try WD 40. Stupid screws of doom


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodkeys*
> 
> It's possible, though all the other screws are not. I tried to move them in both directions in an attempt to loosen them. But they're not giving way neither left nor right. Tonight I'll try again to heat them, maybe it gives a bit of a wiggle room when they cool down again. Other than that I'll try WD 40. Stupid screws of doom


Good luck...


----------



## goodkeys

After another hour of raw violence, the screws revealed that they are screws after all. They moved about one eight of a rotation. That's the good news. The bad news: they rotated clockwise, and now tilting the stem is considerably tighter than before. So I guess they are regular screws and not reverse threaded. Oh, and of course now they are horribly stuck again and move neither forth nor back. Man, the guy screwing those in must have been completely out of his mind. He probably goes by the name of Hulk.
Tomorrow I'm going to buy some WD 40, but frankly I don't see this helping at all. I contacted the seller, maybe they know which clamping spell they used and how to counter spell it. Hopefully it doesn't involve unicorn blood or something. I freshly ran out of that.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodkeys*
> 
> After another hour of raw violence, the screws revealed that they are screws after all. They moved about one eight of a rotation. That's the good news. The bad news: they rotated clockwise, and now tilting the stem is considerably tighter than before. So I guess they are regular screws and not reverse threaded. Oh, and of course now they are horribly stuck again and move neither forth nor back. Man, the guy screwing those in must have been completely out of his mind. He probably goes by the name of Hulk.
> Tomorrow I'm going to buy some WD 40, but frankly I don't see this helping at all. I contacted the seller, maybe they know which clamping spell they used and how to counter spell it. Hopefully it doesn't involve unicorn blood or something. I freshly ran out of that.


You could replace unicorn blood with the blood of a virgin. Try the engineering class at the university nearest you.


----------



## kapone

Did you try a small torque wrench with the right bit, instead of a screwdriver?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodkeys*
> 
> After another hour of raw violence, the screws revealed that they are screws after all. They moved about one eight of a rotation. That's the good news. The bad news: they rotated clockwise, and now tilting the stem is considerably tighter than before. So I guess they are regular screws and not reverse threaded. Oh, and of course now they are horribly stuck again and move neither forth nor back. Man, the guy screwing those in must have been completely out of his mind. He probably goes by the name of Hulk.
> Tomorrow I'm going to buy some WD 40, but frankly I don't see this helping at all. I contacted the seller, maybe they know which clamping spell they used and how to counter spell it. Hopefully it doesn't involve unicorn blood or something. I freshly ran out of that.


If you have any movement they should eventually come out ... find a friend (like me LoL) that has a gorilla grip and let him try ... OTHERWISE a surefire solution is using what is called an "Impact Wrench", and they'll pop right out ... kinda like a mini-jackhammer pulse, or the pounding click you hear when Nascar boys change a tire ... any well equipped shop or contractor type friend will have one ... they're a little pricey to buy for one job


----------



## goodkeys

Thank you for your support guys. I opted against virgin blood for practical reasons - I didn't wanna cut myself. Instead I went with WD40 and a 4:1 ratchet screwdriver. One of the screws turned clockwise for about two turns. Now it's stuck again. The other one didn't move alltogether. It's now pretty clear that the threads must be defect, because eventhough one screw turned it didn't come out or go in. Nice.
At least it's now definitely clear that these two screws won't unscrew no matter what I do. I have contacted the seller, and either he knows another way to remove the stand or else I'll have to send it back.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodkeys*
> 
> Thank you for your support guys. I opted against virgin blood for practical reasons - I didn't wanna cut myself. Instead I went with WD40 and a 4:1 ratchet screwdriver. One of the screws turned clockwise for about two turns. Now it's stuck again. The other one didn't move alltogether. It's now pretty clear that the threads must be defect, because eventhough one screw turned it didn't come out or go in. Nice.
> At least it's now definitely clear that these two screws won't unscrew no matter what I do. I have contacted the seller, and either he knows another way to remove the stand or else I'll have to send it back.


Another option (which I would save for a last resort) is to drill right next to the screws, to enlarge the holes. See this drawing for a rough idea of what I mean: click. It'll be risky and you won't be able to use the stand again, but that's the only thing I can think of at this point.


----------



## ganron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodkeys*
> 
> Thank you for your support guys. I opted against virgin blood for practical reasons - I didn't wanna cut myself. Instead I went with WD40 and a 4:1 ratchet screwdriver. One of the screws turned clockwise for about two turns. Now it's stuck again. The other one didn't move alltogether. It's now pretty clear that the threads must be defect, because eventhough one screw turned it didn't come out or go in. Nice.
> At least it's now definitely clear that these two screws won't unscrew no matter what I do. I have contacted the seller, and either he knows another way to remove the stand or else I'll have to send it back.


Take a close shot with a camera and upload here. People might have a better idea/solution and some newbies (like me







) might learn a thing or two.


----------



## goodkeys

There's not much to be seen, but here you go:



The heads of the screws are actually fine, it's just a blurry picture. Sneaky screws, they are acting as if everything was ok just to unleash their deathgrip as soon as anything remotely looking like a screwdriver comes close.

I'm in contact with the seller, and he asked me politely to follow this tutorial:






Due to the time gap he won't respond until tomorrow. As NadavCE wrote I see three options: 1. trying to drill out the screws and hope that the bezel doesn't get damaged in the process. 2. saw the neck of the stand off 3. send the thing back.
Let's see what the seller advises.


----------



## TylerAD

Just ordered mine off Amazon. If this its better then my QNIX 2710 then I will be selling that. I hope this is as good as y'all have made it out to be!


----------



## renji1337

You guys shuld check this panel for this specific issue.

This is a issue that happened to more than 50% of QNIX's when overclocked and mostly goes undiscovered because it's very hard to notice during just gaming or desktop.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maegnas*
> 
> I also have noticed the issue with the darkening top-right corner. My examples below show it best on the green screen, however it is quite apparent on other colors as well. (first noticed it w/ the Facebook blue bar across the top as well as the Overclock.net background) I have confirmed this happens with both the stock color profile, as well as lawson67's 'Nativedispcal120hz200cdm' profile, so it does not appear to be related to the profile.
> 
> The monitor is otherwise stable at 120hz, and arrived with very minimal backlight bleed (I opened it up anyway and removed a lot of the pads behind the panel as the pressure on those points was actually the main culprit of the BLB.)
> 
> 60hz
> 96hz
> 120hz
> 
> FYI - I ordered my monitor on 1/31/14 from accessorieswhole seller on eBay.
> 
> Here are my current CRU settings: (Running an Nvidia GTX 780)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help, and thank you to all those who have posted - it has answered a countless number of my questions in setting up this monitor.


----------



## blued

^ Not the same as (earlier) Qnixs. There would be a gamma rise that would affect the whole screen, not portions of it. This made it easy to deal with, just use color profiles with lower gamma, or recalibrate yourself with colorimeter. Image quality remained consistent when recalibrated at higher overclocks. Not sure if same holds true with newer Qnixs. Is this crossover a one off or happens with a lot of them?


----------



## haru3173

i went ahead and bought on from dream-seller. how long did it take for them to ship? its been 2 days already no shipment for me.


----------



## goodkeys

It was similar for me. I ordered it, paid, and then didn't get a notice that it was shipped for a few days. On the fourth day I thought I'd write an email why it hasn't been shipped yet. That was the day UPS actually brought it to my door... In short: I never got a notice that the monitor was underway, but it came much sooner than I would have thought. That was with accessorieswhole though.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> You guys shuld check this panel for this specific issue.
> 
> This is a issue that happened to more than 50% of QNIX's when overclocked and mostly goes undiscovered because it's very hard to notice during just gaming or desktop.


This looks like it could be a result of the PWM dimming that the QNIX uses. The 2795QHD does not use PWM dimming, therefore it should (hopefully) not have this issue.


----------



## TylerAD

Does anyone know where to get an good ICC profile for this monitor? Or out of the box/default seems to be the best collaborated for it?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> This looks like it could be a result of the PWM dimming that the QNIX uses. The 2795QHD does not use PWM dimming, therefore it should (hopefully) not have this issue.


Sorry NO ... PWM diming has nothing to do with panel uniformity issue's ... Did you not read blued's comments above (partial answer)?

Also that post from renji1337 is from the QNIX thread over 11/2 years ago (Samsung PLS - very different panel from the 2795's LG AH-IPS) *HERE* from a very inexperienced user, and was a high OC 120Hz stability problem AND with the older L02 panels AND certainly was rare and not with 50% of the panels ... geeeez
 








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TylerAD*
> 
> Does anyone know where to get an good ICC profile for this monitor? Or out of the box/default seems to be the best collaborated for it?


You'll never really know till you calibrate it yourself, every panel is different. You might PM MTuba and see if he knows of one/source. OR maybe someone in this thread has a color calibration meter and could share his results/profile with you?


----------



## KaielSu

Hi everyone, just wanted to first thank you all for the information provided.

I was present for the original Catleap 2B craze but held off. I'd pull the trigger immediately if I wasn't moving across Canada in 7 weeks. Do you guys think the supply for the 2795QHD will last until mid September, based on how long the Catleap 2B and the Qnix Qx2710 lasted? If I don't wait it'll likely cost a fair bit to ship it cross-country safely with a private courier business.


----------



## Ized

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roadlesstraveled*
> 
> Here's the reply I just got from dream-seller:
> 
> Still debating on what to do... Also, I paid the extra $20 for the "Perfect" monitor.


Any update to this?

Its nice that he is working with you, many would have washed their hands of the issue I guess.

Though it is kind of insulting to offer you $50 back since you paid $20 extra for "perfect".


----------



## roadlesstraveled

@Ized I opted to return the monitor for a full refund + shipping fees and dream-seller has already provided me with a shipping label. Haven't decided which 1440p monitor I'm going to get in place of the 2795QHD. The higher refresh rate is nice, but I think I'm going to go with a glossy display next, possibly the Sakwa. The only game I play at the moment is CS:GO which I plan to continue playing on my Asus VG248QE. One reason I'm hesitant to purchase another Korean monitor is that I contacted SquareTrade via email and was told they would not offer coverage on Korean monitors (which I thought they would prior to ordering the 2795QHD).


----------



## haru3173

my package is currently on ups "The package is awaiting clearing agency review. / The package is at the clearing agency awaiting final release." Anybody got this also? How long did it take to clear and im guessing i have to pay customs fees?


----------



## roadlesstraveled

@haru3173 I got that status as well and it took 17 minutes to be released and departed the following day. I did not have to pay any customs fees.


----------



## haru3173

ok thanks. its been hours and no update yet. Hopefully i get no problems with the monitor as i bought the perfect pixel version. Im so stoked right now this is my first korean monitor and coming from dual 24" hp zr24w. Sorry about your problem though good luck on the sakwa


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haru3173*
> 
> ok thanks. its been hours and no update yet. Hopefully i get no problems with the monitor as i bought the perfect pixel version. Im so stoked right now this is my first korean monitor and coming from dual 24" hp zr24w. Sorry about your problem though good luck on the sakwa


As a guy who came from a single 23" U2312HM, the difference is astounding.


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Sorry NO ... PWM diming has nothing to do with panel uniformity issue's ... Did you not read blued's comments above (partial answer)?
> 
> Also that post from renji1337 is from the QNIX thread over 11/2 years ago (Samsung PLS - very different panel from the 2795's LG AH-IPS) *HERE* from a very inexperienced user, and was a high OC 120Hz stability problem AND with the older L02 panels AND certainly was rare and not with 50% of the panels ... geeeez
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll never really know till you calibrate it yourself, every panel is different. You might PM MTuba and see if he knows of one/source. OR maybe someone in this thread has a color calibration meter and could share his results/profile with you?


When I brought this up in the QNIX thread, immediately over 10 people had the same problem. I PM'd lots of people about it. The fact that in over 1 day my post made 10 different people realize there monitor does the same thing isn't a coincidence. We all tested our panels and it begins to start at 85hz overclocked, it becomes noticeable at 96hz, and at 120hz very noticeable. That is why you need to check for it on this monitor, a user on Hard forum has already experienced this issue with this monitor(the crossover)This user did not have a problem at 85 or 96hz or 105hz, but the top right side of his panel dims at 110hz.

The uniformity issue was caused by higher pixel clocks once you hit 85hz or higher. and I gurantee if you start PM'ing QNIX owners that alot of them don't even notice it, but if you point it out, they will.

I also contacted dream-seller about this issue back then and he stated that it was a problem with the PCB and how it is handling pixel clocks.

Also i'm not an inexperienced user  I took my whole monitor apart and put it back together trying to fix it. if you notice in the post you linked the picture of the trees was ones I took.

Also I have one of the earliest QNIX monitors that doesn't suffer from the PWM dimming issue.

The fact of the matter is, this was happening @ 85hz for the majority of people that decided to look into the problem at that time. I believe that if around 10 users who were reading my post at that time, tested there monitor and found the same issue as me, that more than likely a majority of users have this issue because a majority of people who bought that monitor aren't just on OCN. On H forum they also had alot of people with this issue with the early and late qnix's.

My crossover comes next week so i'll be testing for it then.

I'm itching to see how well the monitor does when I use my colorimeter to calibrate it and see if it does better than the QNIX.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> When I brought this up in the QNIX thread, immediately over 10 people had the same problem. I PM'd lots of people about it. The fact that in over 1 day my post made 10 different people realize there monitor does the same thing isn't a coincidence. We all tested our panels and it begins to start at 85hz overclocked, it becomes noticeable at 96hz, and at 120hz very noticeable. That is why you need to check for it on this monitor, a user on Hard forum has already experienced this issue with this monitor(the crossover)This user did not have a problem at 85 or 96hz or 105hz, but the top right side of his panel dims at 110hz.
> 
> The uniformity issue was caused by higher pixel clocks once you hit 85hz or higher. and I gurantee if you start PM'ing QNIX owners that alot of them don't even notice it, but if you point it out, they will.
> 
> I also contacted dream-seller about this issue back then and he stated that it was a problem with the PCB and how it is handling pixel clocks.
> 
> Also i'm not an inexperienced user  I took my whole monitor apart and put it back together trying to fix it. if you notice in the post you linked the picture of the trees was ones I took.
> 
> Also I have one of the earliest QNIX monitors that doesn't suffer from the PWM dimming issue.
> 
> The fact of the matter is, this was happening @ 85hz for the majority of people that decided to look into the problem at that time. I believe that if around 10 users who were reading my post at that time, tested there monitor and found the same issue as me, that more than likely a majority of users have this issue because a majority of people who bought that monitor aren't just on OCN. On H forum they also had alot of people with this issue with the early and late qnix's.
> 
> My crossover comes next week so i'll be testing for it then.
> 
> I'm itching to see how well the monitor does when I use my colorimeter to calibrate it and see if it does better than the QNIX.


Could you run some simulations on mapping the universe in 8K, or play Crysis at 60 FPS? I'm sure your rig could handle it- it looks absolutely monstrous.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> When I brought this up in the QNIX thread, immediately over 10 people had the same problem. I PM'd lots of people about it. The fact that in over 1 day my post made 10 different people realize there monitor does the same thing isn't a coincidence. We all tested our panels and it begins to start at 85hz overclocked, it becomes noticeable at 96hz, and at 120hz very noticeable. That is why you need to check for it on this monitor, a user on Hard forum has already experienced this issue with this monitor(the crossover)This user did not have a problem at 85 or 96hz or 105hz, but the top right side of his panel dims at 110hz.
> 
> The uniformity issue was caused by higher pixel clocks once you hit 85hz or higher. and I gurantee if you start PM'ing QNIX owners that alot of them don't even notice it, but if you point it out, they will.
> 
> I also contacted dream-seller about this issue back then and he stated that it was a problem with the PCB and how it is handling pixel clocks.
> 
> Also i'm not an inexperienced user  I took my whole monitor apart and put it back together trying to fix it. if you notice in the post you linked the picture of the trees was ones I took.
> 
> Also I have one of the earliest QNIX monitors that doesn't suffer from the PWM dimming issue.
> 
> The fact of the matter is, this was happening @ 85hz for the majority of people that decided to look into the problem at that time. I believe that if around 10 users who were reading my post at that time, tested there monitor and found the same issue as me, that more than likely a majority of users have this issue because a majority of people who bought that monitor aren't just on OCN. On H forum they also had alot of people with this issue with the early and late qnix's.
> 
> My crossover comes next week so i'll be testing for it then.
> 
> I'm itching to see how well the monitor does when I use my colorimeter to calibrate it and see if it does better than the QNIX.


My apologies, I may have been to harsh. And I wasn't calling you inexperienced, just the linked/original poster maegnas. I also didn't realize you had so much PM feedback. I do remember that post and Lawson, wrntsnowg, MTuba Yazamoka, myself and others couldn't replicate it but we all had 120Hz++ monitors. I don't remember this being a problem or even mentioned with the Cat2B and that really is closer to what you want to compare as it is an LG more like? the 2795 (not Samsung PLS). Anyway I'm looking forward to your comments/observations


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> My apologies, I may have been to harsh. Didn't realize you had so much PM feedback. I do remember that post and Lawson, wrntsnowg, MTuba Yazamoka, myself and others couldn't replicate it but we all had 120Hz++ monitors. I don't remember this being a problem or even mentioned with the Cat2B and that really is closer to what you want to compare as it is an LG more like? the 2795 (not Samsung PLS). Anyway I'm looking forward to your comments/observations


I'm sure this monitor wont have it. I don't think AH-IPS vs PLS was the cause of the dimming though. I feel it had more to do with luck of the draw PCB's on the qnix. If i can get this to run 110hz with no issues i'll probably sell my qnix to someone xD

Right now I just run my qnix at 96hz since with my colorimeter I dont notice the issue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Could you run some simulations on mapping the universe in 8K, or play Crysis at 60 FPS? I'm sure your rig could handle it- it looks absolutely monstrous.


my rig makes me broke







, I also do render some games at 6k. I use heavy DSR with those two.


----------



## TheSwede86

Sorry to make this post "again" since I replied in this thread earlier about a few questions in regards to this monitor but hopefully I'll sell my monitor tomorrow and going to "pull the trigger" on this one instantly (well, as soon as I get my computer hooked up to my TV)









As I understand it there seem to be no "other" variants of the Crossover 2795QHD then well, the Crossover 2795QHD?
Meaning that with the Qnix QX2710 there are:
The "True10"-variant which has multi inputs and bad / lower OC
The "SE"-variant which seems to have worse QC
The "Off-grade"-variant which have defects and are sold at a discounted price

No such models / variants seems to be listed for the 2795QHD so I was thinking about this one from "dream-seller":
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/221826459725?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item33a5e3284d
That is the cheapest listing for the monitor incl. S&H to Sweden for around 2,716,88SEK while the cheapest "Perfect" model is 2,890,38SEK (also from dream-seller):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/331605501322?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4d353a658a

Now the price difference is totally negligible (around 200SEK = $23 = £14) but people seem actually to prefer non-"perfect" listings instead of "perfect" listings since they seem to have as good / better track record in regards to stuck pixels / BBL etc.?

So thinking about the the first listing I posted, the one without the "perfect"-option. Anything I might have missed







?
Aware that the stand might be "wobbly" but I'll try the one it comes with first before going and buying another.

Very much appreciate your reply - An apprehensive Swede


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSwede86*
> 
> Sorry to make this post "again" since I replied in this thread earlier about a few questions in regards to this monitor but hopefully I'll sell my monitor tomorrow and going to "pull the trigger" on this one instantly (well, as soon as I get my computer hooked up to my TV)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I understand it there seem to be no "other" variants of the Crossover 2795QHD then well, the Crossover 2795QHD?
> Meaning that with the Qnix QX2710 there are:
> The "True10"-variant which has multi inputs and bad / lower OC
> The "SE"-variant which seems to have worse QC
> The "Off-grade"-variant which have defects and are sold at a discounted price
> 
> No such models / variants seems to be listed for the 2795QHD so I was thinking about this one from "dream-seller":
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/221826459725?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item33a5e3284d
> That is the cheapest listing for the monitor incl. S&H to Sweden for around 2,716,88SEK while the cheapest "Perfect" model is 2,890,38SEK (also from dream-seller):
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/331605501322?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4d353a658a
> 
> Now the price difference is totally negligible (around 200SEK = $23 = £14) but people seem actually to prefer non-"perfect" listings instead of "perfect" listings since they seem to have as good / better track record in regards to stuck pixels / BBL etc.?
> 
> *So thinking about the the first listing I posted*, the one without the "perfect"-option. Anything I might have missed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> Aware that the stand might be "wobbly" but I'll try the one it comes with first before going and buying another.
> 
> Very much appreciate your reply - An apprehensive Swede


Your good to go ... there are no other variants specifically with the 2795QHD like there were with the QNIX QX2710, good luck and report back with your OC results









EDIT: that is also the best price I've seen yet for the 2795


----------



## Unownbeing

Hey, did anyone who bought one of these have a plastic film protecting the screen. Just curious as it seems my box was opened prior to shipping.


----------



## coolbird22

Every unboxing video I've seen seems to have a film on the screen. Quite possible that it was opened, but also possible that the dealer may have forgotten perhaps ?


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolbird22*
> 
> Every unboxing video I've seen seems to have a film on the screen. Quite possible that it was opened, but also possible that the dealer may have forgotten perhaps ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unownbeing*
> 
> Hey, did anyone who bought one of these have a plastic film protecting the screen. Just curious as it seems my box was opened prior to shipping.


I didn't have a plastic film on the screen. However, it arrived clean of fingerprints and unscratched.


----------



## Unownbeing

Yeah other then that it looks untouched too. Overall I'm happy with it, however i have seen artifacts on the right side down the middle of the screen when overclocked to 96hz. That was after I reduced the timings as well. But the last 2 days it has been fine. It seems after the monitor has been on for a while and warmed up this doesn't happen.

Edit: Here are my timings.


----------



## TylerAD

I should get my monitor on Tues - Friday - quite stoked. Will be coming from a QNIX 2710.


----------



## Jared2608

I was really considering one of these but duties make it not so cheap anymore...Still cheaper than locally available equivalents but not so great. 25% duty, 7% advolorem tax and 14% VAT. If they were classed as computer components, they'd be duty free but noooo SARS has a separate category for monitors.


----------



## Dekkers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TylerAD*
> 
> I should get my monitor on Tues - Friday - quite stoked. Will be coming from a QNIX 2710.


Curious what made you decide to go from qnix2710 to this one? I am considering this monitor.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dekkers*
> 
> Curious what made you decide to go from qnix2710 to this one? I am considering this monitor.


Honestly, IMO it's not worth it. Unless you have ~320$ lying around and absolutely can't stand PWM dimming that is. However, I can tell you that coming from a good 1080p/60Hz panel (Dell U2312HM) to this 1440p/96Hz beast is a huge difference.


----------



## Dekkers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Honestly, IMO it's not worth it. Unless you have ~320$ lying around and absolutely can't stand PWM dimming that is. However, I can tell you that coming from a good 1080p/60Hz panel (Dell U2312HM) to this 1440p/96Hz beast is a huge difference.


Nice, I am actually using a Dell U2312hm right now. You saying that really makes me want to upgrade.
The one thing I can't stand about this Dell is the Anti glare coating. Makes reading text pretty annoying. Do you know if this Crossover has a bad AG coating like the Dell?


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dekkers*
> 
> Nice, I am actually using a Dell U2312hm right now. You saying that really makes me want to upgrade.
> The one thing I can't stand about this Dell is the Anti glare coating. Makes reading text pretty annoying. Do you know if this Crossover has a bad AG coating like the Dell?


The U2312HM's coating is infamously thick and sparkly. The 2795's coating is thin, does not sparkle/screw up colours and it still eliminates reflections almost as effectively as the Dell.

If you have any more questions (or want me to list some pros/cons, first impressions, etc.) just ask. Quote me with all your requests/questions and I'll answer them in a clear, concise manner (that way anyone else stumbling on this thread will find them useful).


----------



## TylerAD

Just to try out the new features + slightly quicker response time. I would sell my Qnix if I am happy with the new monitor (maybe loose 80ish in the upgrade). If not, then Ill just return the monitor.


----------



## haru3173

Finally got it! The screen quality is definitely an upgrade My monitor has a cat-like symbol and not crossover in the middle.. Still not used to using 27" though. My only gripe is the stand. I might have to buy a wall mount for this beast. I was only able to overclock to 100hz. 110 gives me artifacts and 120 gives me no display. Overall, I'm very satisfied with my purchase


----------



## subz3ro

Just got the monitor today and oh my...





















No dead pixels or back light bleeding, absolutely perfect monitor.

Was using a BenQ XL2420TE as main monitor and the Crossover is a HUGE improvement. I will continue to play csgo on the BenQ, but will probably play everything else on the Crossover. 96hz works without any problems, have yet to try anything higher. Overall I am extremely happy with this purchase! I really can't say enough how amazed and impressed I am with this monitor. Next step is to get a 980ti, then a 1440p g-sync monitor.


----------



## Jared2608

Nice, which buyer did you get it from if you don't mind me asking? Seems your one is perfect!


----------



## subz3ro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared2608*
> 
> Nice, which buyer did you get it from if you don't mind me asking? Seems your one is perfect!


Bought it from dreamseller


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared2608*
> 
> Nice, which buyer did you get it from if you don't mind me asking? Seems your one is perfect!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subz3ro*
> 
> Bought it from dreamseller


Yeah, I got mine from dream-seller too. No dead pixels or backlight bleed either for me.


----------



## Jared2608

Ok, he doesn't ship to South Africa, but there are quite a few who do.


----------



## Babyseahorse

I also bought one last week from dreamseller. Will report back once I receive it.


----------



## subz3ro

So I'm able to run 110hz no problem. However I was wondering how much more strain is being put on the monitor? I would rather do 96hz and not have to worry about any problems in the future.


----------



## DiaSin

Has anyone here used both this and the Asus PB278Q? I am looking to buy my first 1440p monitor in the next couple of months and wonder how they compare.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Has anyone here used both this and the Asus PB278Q? I am looking to buy my first 1440p monitor in the next couple of months and wonder how they compare.


The PB278QR is the same as the PB278Q from 2014 which now uses an AUO AHVA panel and a matte black bezel. The PB278QR and new PB278Q have worse colour presets and lower contrast than the original PLS version, but do not use LED PWM Dimming (Side Effects) unlike the original, are delay free unlike the majority of multi-input 1440p monitors and have faster pixel response times than the original.

Credit to NCX. Take a look at his best 1440p monitors thread for more info.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> The PB278QR is the same as the PB278Q from 2014 which now uses an AUO AHVA panel and a matte black bezel. The PB278QR and new PB278Q have worse colour presets and lower contrast than the original PLS version, but do not use LED PWM Dimming (Side Effects) unlike the original, are delay free unlike the majority of multi-input 1440p monitors and have faster pixel response times than the original.
> 
> Credit to NCX. Take a look at his best 1440p monitors thread for more info.


One thing I have been wondering about... How do I know which one I am getting if I order the PB278Q? The amazon page still lists it as a PLS panel, but I don't see a listing for another version, and I know the R is not sold in the US.

Amazon Page: http://www.amazon.com/PB278Q-27-Inch-LED-lit-Professional-Graphics/dp/B009C3M7H0

Anyway.. between the PB278Q and this Crossover, which would you recommend?


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> One thing I have been wondering about... How do I know which one I am getting if I order the PB278Q? The amazon page still lists it as a PLS panel, but I don't see a listing for another version, and I know the R is not sold in the US.


I don't know and honestly, unless you absolutely _*must*_ have multiple inputs, I wouldn't risk it. The 2795 has practically no downsides (besides having one input, which results in lower input lag and therefore can also be considered as an upside), and it's cheaper to boot.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> I don't know and honestly, unless you absolutely _*must*_ have multiple inputs, I wouldn't risk it. The 2795 has practically no downsides (besides having one input, which results in lower input lag and therefore can also be considered as an upside), and it's cheaper to boot.


The thing that worries me is that if something is wrong it has to be shipped back to Korea. I am leaning farther and farther towards this Crossover the more I read, but the lack of a real warranty and the distance for the shipping if it has to be returned are making me hesitate.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> The thing that worries me is that if something is wrong it has to be shipped back to Korea. I am leaning farther and farther towards this Crossover the more I read, but the lack of a real warranty and the distance for the shipping if it has to be returned are making me hesitate.


As you have seen, most people are satisfied with their monitors, and almost all of them are nearly flawless. In the rare case of an issue, the sellers are usually courteous and will take care of your problem without too much hassle. If worse come to worst, you could request a refund and have it shipped back.


----------



## haru3173

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> The thing that worries me is that if something is wrong it has to be shipped back to Korea. I am leaning farther and farther towards this Crossover the more I read, but the lack of a real warranty and the distance for the shipping if it has to be returned are making me hesitate.


I bought one from dream-seller and have 0 dead pixel and no backlight bleed. If you get a problem they will most likely refund you and shipping cost ( I think there was a member here a page or 2 ago who had gotten a bad one and he got a full refund.


----------



## Saftkalaset

Got mine from dream-seller 2 days ago, having to pay 640SEK for importing it.
Has no noticable backlight bleeding, overclocked to 97hz, it does however have a dead pixel in the lower left side.
I sent them an email through ebay asking about a reshippment. They responded and asked me to contact them again, without going thorugh ebay. Currently waiting for a response. _Updating with whatever happens next._

_Update 1:_ Turn out the just wanted pictures of the faulty pixel sent to their email, waiting for response regarding a reshippment.

_Update 2_ They don't do reshipping for stuck pixels as they're not considerd faulty so I'm simply returning the monitor for a refund with me paying shipping.

_Update 3_ Bought another one, this time from greensum, this one has a dead pixel leftcenter... Feels like i got really unlucky.

Good luck to the rest of you!


----------



## haru3173

Couple of questions, why do most people go 96hz? I have mine set to 100hz which I think could be my max.
Does this monitor also have a driver to install?
Any take on this wall mount?
http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Articulating-Monitor-Motion-ML12B/dp/B003O1UYHG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1437526438&sr=8-1&keywords=monitor+mount&pebp=1437526445329&perid=0C5RXKHPF2CV508F8F8D

Anybody got icc profiles to share? I'm using the one from tftcentral its 27qd and it works great
Here my pics


----------



## Germanian

The reason people use 96hz is, because 96hz is divisible by 24.

Movies run at 24 frames, so as far as i know it creates a good smooth image that way.


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Could you run some simulations on mapping the universe in 8K, or play Crysis at 60 FPS? I'm sure your rig could handle it- it looks absolutely monstrous.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Germanian*
> 
> The reason people use 96hz is, because 96hz is divisible by 24.
> 
> Movies run at 24 frames, so as far as i know it creates a good smooth image that way.


when used with reclock yeah this is true


----------



## Germanian

i just got the BenQ 2411z that I ordered from Staples. It's still in box.

Not sure if I should return the BenQ and get 1 of these Crossover monitors for 1440p.


----------



## Jacklim

Has anybody ordered the monitor from Amazon before?
http://www.amazon.com/CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED/dp/B00TERTMI6/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&keywords=crossover%202795&qid=1437538280&ref_=mp_s_a_1_1&sr=8-1

I can't buy from ebay since my country is sanctioned.


----------



## goodkeys

Thanks to all who bore with me. With the help of a car repair-screwdriver and an engineer friend the ghastly screws have finally been removed. Beautiful screen, zero faulty pixels, no backlightbleeding that I could see. Yay


----------



## kevaughan

Just ordered from Dream Seller on Ebay. Shipping to Ontario Canada, so for anyone that's in the area and are still interested in this monitor, I'll keep you updated on the purchase process.

I got the pixel perfect version even though many of you guys mentioned it didn't make much of a difference. It was just a piece of mind kind of a thing for me.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/321719207934?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae7f587fe


----------



## Germanian

For people who ordered from the USA did you have pay CUSTOMS TAX?

Or is the Ebay price the final price once you got it delivered.


----------



## ganron

FYI -> Tried OCing using Monoprice 24AWG Dual Link DVI-D Cable and the result is same. Monitor can't get past 96Hz..


----------



## zedlor

Just thought I'd share my experience as a British guy!

My monitor arrived today, and I hasten to add that there are no dead pixels or any backlight bleed that I can make out. I'm coming from an ASUS VE247H, which suffered from pretty bad ghosting, and this is so much better.

Anyway, I ordered it from eBay from Dream-seller. It was the cheapest at the time and was also the Pixel Perfect version, came to about £214. I decided to have them ship it via EMS, which they said is less likely to cause import charges to be paid, but they couldn't guarantee anything. This was about an extra £25 or so, and they just declared $70 on the box. It took about a week to arrive to me, but it did take a little longer because I did have to pay £32 worth of import fees to Parcelforce. Not the end of the world, even after all this it is still miles cheaper than any other monitor of its type here.

Got it all set up now, and bought a "premium" DVI cable to see if I could achieve any higher than a 96Hz overclock on this monitor (this is the one I bought), but I couldn't. I tried going to 110Hz, but I got weird artifacting in the top right corner and when running the frame skipping test, some of the black edges of the boxes were multicoloured, so I'm sat at 96Hz now with no issues.

All in all, very happy with my purchase! The size difference between 24" and 27" is much more than I was expecting...but now to test GTA V in 1440p!


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zedlor*
> 
> Just thought I'd share my experience as a British guy!
> 
> All in all, very happy with my purchase! The size difference between 24" and 27" is much more than I was expecting...but now to test GTA V in 1440p!


Great! Yet another satisfied user! I highly recommend that you try out Bioshock Infinite as well. It looks absolutely stunning @1440p.


----------



## Jared2608

Well after reading the whole thread and seeing how happy you guys are with these, if they're still available around December I'm going to order one for myself. I'll have to cough up like 25% duties and 7% excise tax but even so, it'll come in at least R 3000.00 if not more cheaper than buying a similar monitor here if you can find any at an even half way sane price. I've seen 1440P monitors that would cost twice this even with the duties. Sadly I won't have the cash until December though...


----------



## DiaSin

I've pretty much decided I'm going to get this monitor, probably in a couple of months. I have one question though... As a US buyer, are there any import/customs fees on top of the cost listed on the dream-seller ebay listing?


----------



## dainfamous

Do you guys think DVI is being phased out on future graphics cards rendering this monitor useless? Wouldnt want to buy one now knowing that everyone is doing display port / hdmi ala the radeon r9 fury cards.


----------



## Germanian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> Do you guys think DVI is being phased out on future graphics cards rendering this monitor useless? Wouldnt want to buy one now knowing that everyone is doing display port / hdmi ala the radeon r9 fury cards.


you could still use it with adapters in the future


----------



## dainfamous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Germanian*
> 
> you could still use it with adapters in the future


Product description on ebay said to not use adapters for this particular model.

"Port converter CANNOT be used. (D-sub, HDMI, DP converter)
DVI-D(Dual Link): YES / DVI-D(Single Link): NO"

Found here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/321719207934?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae7f587fe


----------



## Unownbeing

If anyone is interested I have some ICC profiles created with a ColorMunki Display using dispcalGUI. I ran calibration with the monitor at 96Hz, 2.2 Gamma and a sRGB profile with a 6500k White Point.
UPDATE 12/07-
Same profile as before -sRGB at 6500k-, but noticed slight improvement of gamma:

27QHD12015-12-0622-02D6500sRGBSXYZLUTMTX.zip 678k .zip file


UPDATE: 08/25-

New profiles after one month of use..
2.2 Gamma Profile:

27QHD12015-08-2511-03D65002.2SXYZLUTMTX.zip 680k .zip file


sRGB Profile:

27QHD12015-08-2517-12D6500sRGBSXYZLUTMTX.zip 676k .zip file


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> Product description on ebay said to not use adapters for this particular model.
> 
> "Port converter CANNOT be used. (D-sub, HDMI, DP converter)
> DVI-D(Dual Link): YES / DVI-D(Single Link): NO"
> 
> Found here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/321719207934?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae7f587fe


This is something I am curious about as well. As long as it starts as a true digital signal, why would it matter if you used a DP to DVI-D adapter?


----------



## majikfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unownbeing*
> 
> If anyone is interested I have one ICC profile that was created with ColorMunki Display using dispcalGUI. Monitor brightness set to ~140cd/m2, 2.2 Gamma, 6500k.
> I ran calibration with monitor at 96Hz.
> 
> 27QHDD65002.2SXYZLUTMTX.zip 1812k .zip file


Do you run the profile on Color Sustainer? Or is there another way? Also how do I know how to set the brightness correctly seeing as there is no OSD


----------



## Unownbeing

I dont think I will use color sustainer as the calibration is pretty close to the default profile. I just made sure the ICC was set in color management and the system default in the advanced menu. 140cdm/2 should be 11 clicks from max brightness.

Edit: Pushing button is not an accurate way to get specific brightness as I can not get same value when I tried measuring the levels again. As you hold down the button the levels keep changing..







I do prefer white level of about 170cd/m2 with my ICC profile. I probably will run another calibration at that brightness.


----------



## TylerAD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unownbeing*


Do you run the profile on Color Sustainer? Or is there another way? Also how do I know how to set the brightness correctly seeing as there is no OSD[/quote]

I dont think I will use color sustainer as the calibration is pretty close to the default profile. I just made sure the the ICC was set in clolor management and the system default in the advanced menu. 140cdm/2 should be 11 clicks from max brightness.[/quote]

So really these displays are calibrated pretty good? How do you find max brightness? Do you mean just click up like 20 times, then click minus 11 times?

Please explain a little more as I get mine in mail today.


----------



## haru3173

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unownbeing*
> 
> If anyone is interested I have one ICC profile that was created with ColorMunki Display using dispcalGUI. Monitor brightness set to ~140cd/m2, 2.2 Gamma, 6500k.
> I ran calibration with monitor at 96Hz.
> 
> 27QHDD65002.2SXYZLUTMTX.zip 1812k .zip file


Thanks just what im looking for


----------



## Unownbeing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majikfx*
> 
> Do you run the profile on Color Sustainer? Or is there another way? Also how do I know how to set the brightness correctly seeing as there is no OSD


Actually I was using CPK with my qnix2710, but since the defaults are ok with this Im not worried about 3D/fullscreen
apps not applying the ICC. All i do is right click desktop->screen resolution->advanced settings->color management

Sorry on work laptop dont have profile to show you but you add your ICC here. Then go to advanced and click Change System
Defaults which looks like this:
n

So In System Defaults you have to add your ICC profile as well, which has the same
menu as the top image.

Also a guide I saw said to set View Conditions Profile to " WCS profile for ICC viewing condions."

For brightness my Colormunki actively monitors brightness during calibraiton, but for me 140cd/m2 turns out to be 11 clicks
down from max. might not be the same for you though.

Max brightness will cause eye bleeding and likely screw up contrast/gamma but Im defiantly no
expert on the subject.


----------



## TylerAD

How do you find Max brightness? Just keep hitting up on the button a lot then, minus off/down 11 clicks to get a starting point? Sorry, I need a little more clarification here please.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unownbeing*
> 
> Actually I was using CPK with my qnix2710, but since the defaults are ok with this Im not worried about 3D/fullscreen
> apps not applying the ICC. All i do is right click desktop->screen resolution->advanced settings->color management
> 
> Sorry on work laptop dont have profile to show you but you add your ICC here. Then go to advanced and click Change System
> Defaults which looks like this:
> n
> 
> So In System Defaults you have to add your ICC profile as well, which has the same
> menu as the top image.
> 
> Also a guide I saw said to set View Conditions Profile to " WCS profile for ICC viewing condions."
> 
> For brightness my Colormunki actively monitors brightness during calibraiton, but for me 140cd/m2 turns out to be 11 clicks
> down from max. might not be the same for you though.
> 
> Max brightness will cause eye bleeding and likely screw up contrast/gamma but Im defiantly no
> expert on the subject.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TylerAD*
> 
> How do you find Max brightness? Just keep hitting up on the button a lot then, minus off/down 11 clicks to get a starting point? Sorry, I need a little more clarification here please.


Turn the brightness up until it doesn't get any brighter, then lower it 11 notches to get the brightness setting he uses with his profile.


----------



## Unownbeing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haru3173*
> 
> Thanks just what im looking for


Hey how does this look on your display? just curious. Gonna try new calibration with different gamma curve sometime soon. I will post when I
get around to it


----------



## haru3173

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unownbeing*
> 
> Hey how does this look on your display? just curious. Gonna try new calibration with different gamma curve sometime soon. I will post when I
> get around to it


Well i was using 27qhd icc profile I got from tftcentral before and yours have a little bit more color in it and lower brightness. I like yours better.


----------



## TylerAD

Just got notice mine was delivered, will try out tonight and report any issues/findings. I also will try out your ICC profile.

Thanks!


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unownbeing*
> 
> Hey how does this look on your display? just curious. Gonna try new calibration with different gamma curve sometime soon. I will post when I
> get around to it


I won't be getting mine for another couple of months, but I bookmarked the post with your profile for when I get it.


----------



## TylerAD

So far so good... I do have two dead pixels from what I can tell so far. One is far left the other is maybe 4 - 5 inches off center at about eye height. I think I can live with this, however I think my Qunix had 1 dead pixel. Going to best testing out some gaming to see how that goes. I did use your ICC profile, however 11 click down from max brightness is to dark for me (so im at 9 clicks down). Will report back with more once I play some games.


----------



## Unownbeing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TylerAD*
> 
> Do you run the profile on Color Sustainer? Or is there another way? Also how do I know how to set the brightness correctly seeing as there is no OSD


Pushing button is not an accurate way to get specific brightness as I can not get same value when I tried measuring the levels again. As you hold button down the levels keep changing..







I do prefer white level of about 190cd/m2 with my ICC profile. I probably will run another calibration at that brightness.


----------



## TylerAD

Does it also seem like the viewing angles are worse then on the Qnix 2710? I do seem to maybe notice a slight better response time, less light bleed, but the two dead/stuck pixels are a little annoying (not sure if im being picky here).

I'll know more this weekend as to what I think. I also might try seeing what the monitor looks like without the ICC profile (when I lower the brightness it start to have a "gray-ish" hue).


----------



## Babyseahorse

I received my monitor as well yesterday. I have one dead pixel in the lower right corner, an inch from the right side and pretty much on the transition of the taskbar so it's not even noticeable in regular usage. I was able to set it to 96hz and haven't tested anything higher yet. Backlight bleeding is also very minimal I have a little in the lower right corner as well but that was at out of the box brightness and haven't noticed it at the lower brightness setting that it's currently at. Overall pretty pleased with the purchase, and I didn't think going from 1080p to 1440p would make such a difference! Also the color is pretty good out of the box and haven't really messed with any profiles yet. Also bought this from dreamseller and I am located in the U.S. And did not pay for any additional taxes, duties or custom fees.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Babyseahorse*
> 
> I received my monitor as well yesterday. I have one dead pixel in the lower right corner, an inch from the right side and pretty much on the transition of the taskbar so it's not even noticeable in regular usage. I was able to set it to 96hz and haven't tested anything higher yet. Backlight bleeding is also very minimal I have a little in the lower right corner as well but that was at out of the box brightness and haven't noticed it at the lower brightness setting that it's currently at. Overall pretty pleased with the purchase, and I didn't think going from 1080p to 1440p would make such a difference! Also the color is pretty good out of the box and haven't really messed with any profiles yet. Also bought this from dreamseller and I am located in the U.S. And did not pay for any additional taxes, duties or custom fees.


Did you buy the perfect pixel model or the regular one?


----------



## Babyseahorse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Did you buy the perfect pixel model or the regular one?


I purchased the regular version, as I didn't really hear too many positive remarks about the pixel "perfect" versions


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Babyseahorse*
> 
> I purchased the regular version, as I didn't really hear too many positive remarks about the pixel "perfect" versions


You've heard something negative about the perfect pixel version? I was looking at buying this one in a couple of months.


----------



## Babyseahorse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Did you buy the perfect pixel model or the regular one?


Well I've heard that its just a software test to determine "pixel perfection" but its not always accurate and thus not guaranteed to be pixel defect free. So they give it that label to make up for shipping cost by charging a extra. But that's all secondhand information.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Babyseahorse*
> 
> Well I've heard that its just a software test to determine "pixel perfection" but its not always accurate and thus not guaranteed to be pixel defect free. So they give it that label to make up for shipping cost by charging a extra. But that's all secondhand information.


No, its not software. You cannot test for dead pixels with software, thats a hardware problem. They actually test them and check for dead pixels.


----------



## wacko911

I got one from dreamSeller to UK (non-pix perfect version). Its dead pixel free! However the light bleed looks awful or maybe I'm just looking for problems.

Here is a couple of photos. 1 is at normal brightness on a black screen and the other is at full brightness. What do you guys think - is this bad or normal?



BTW, I asked him to declare low value for customs and he declared $200 and $70 postage (paid like $300) so got stung £48 in fees


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wacko911*
> 
> I got one from dreamSeller to UK (non-pix perfect version). Its dead pixel free! However the light bleed looks awful or maybe I'm just looking for problems.
> 
> Here is a couple of photos. 1 is at normal brightness on a black screen and the other is at full brightness. What do you guys think - is this bad or normal?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I asked him to declare low value for customs and he declared $200 and $70 postage (paid like $300) so got stung £48 in fees


I know backlight bleed is supposed to be worse in IPS panels than in TN, but that second one with normal brightness is pretty close to what I see on a black screen with my Asus VS248H-P, which is an LED backlit TN panel. You will never notice it in normal use. I will be so glad when I get the money for my 2795qhd....


----------



## Babyseahorse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> No, its not software. You cannot test for dead pixels with software, thats a hardware problem. They actually test them and check for dead pixels.


I understand that it is a hardware issue, they just probably use some software somehow, why else would they claim it to be "pixel perfect" but say it can have X amount of dead pixels (qnix) as an example?


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Babyseahorse*
> 
> I understand that it is a hardware issue, they just probably use some software somehow, why else would they claim it to be "pixel perfect" but say it can have X amount of dead pixels (qnix) as an example?


Actually, they just power on the monitor and look for any dead pixels.









They claim it's perfect because the chance you'd inspect a monitor after specifically buying a "perfect" model is low, and the 50$-70$ extra is enough to cover shipping in most cases.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Babyseahorse*
> 
> I understand that it is a hardware issue, they just probably use some software somehow, why else would they claim it to be "pixel perfect" but say it can have X amount of dead pixels (qnix) as an example?


Software cannot tell if there are dead pixels anymore than it could tell if you had your monitor attached to a VESA mount instead of the original stand.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Actually, they just power on the monitor and look for any dead pixels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They claim it's perfect because the chance you'd inspect a monitor after specifically buying a "perfect" model is low, and the 50$-70$ extra is enough to cover shipping in most cases.


@Babyseahorse It is exactly as Nadav says.


----------



## Babyseahorse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Software cannot tell if there are dead pixels anymore than it could tell if you had your monitor attached to a VESA mount instead of the original stand.
> @Babyseahorse It is exactly as Nadav says.


Well technically your wrong, as I work at a facility where we do use software (in conjunction with a camera) to detect dead pixel defects in LCD displays among other things, i just wouldn't think they would use something so technical for an off-brand monitor.


----------



## SixSixSheep

I just bought a 980 Ti and am looking to buy one of these monitors. I've read this thread, and I'm wondering if someone could explain to me the difference between the different versions of these monitors, and which you recommend for gaming.

This is the 27QHD(27QD) LED Special Edition Blade:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.?Item=9SIA5JJ2N03310&cm_re=crossover_montitor-_-9SIA5JJ2N03310-_-Product

The standard 27QHD:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-27QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-LG-IPS-2560X1440-QHD-Monitor-Matte-/141115538942?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20db243dfe

and the 2795, which most people on here are referring to:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/221708397727?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339ed9ac9f

Thank you.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SixSixSheep*
> 
> I just bought a 980 Ti and am looking to buy one of these monitors. I've read this thread, and I'm wondering if someone could explain to me the difference between the different versions of these monitors, and which you recommend for gaming.
> 
> This is the 27QHD(27QD) LED Special Edition Blade:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.?Item=9SIA5JJ2N03310&cm_re=crossover_montitor-_-9SIA5JJ2N03310-_-Product
> 
> The standard 27QHD:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-27QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-LG-IPS-2560X1440-QHD-Monitor-Matte-/141115538942?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20db243dfe
> 
> and the 2795, which most people on here are referring to:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/221708397727?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339ed9ac9f
> 
> Thank you.


The 2795 is (most likely) a re-released/refined/refreshed 27QHD. It has better colour presets, is overclockable and does not use PWM dimming.


----------



## SixSixSheep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> The 2795 is (most likely) a re-released/refined/refreshed 27QHD. It has better colour presets, is overclockable and does not use PWM dimming.


.

The 2795 seems like the better option then. What about this Blade edition? It states that it has "Real overclocking"

1. Real overclocking 95Hz clock feature natural video technology to increase the level of the game. General monitors are not smooth when fixed at 60Hz. Crossover 27QD LED Special Edition shows softer and smooth screen with support upgraded overclocking 95Hz.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SixSixSheep*
> 
> .
> 
> The 2795 seems like the better option then. What about this Blade edition? It states that it has "Real overclocking"
> 
> 1. Real overclocking 95Hz clock feature natural video technology to increase the level of the game. General monitors are not smooth when fixed at 60Hz. Crossover 27QD LED Special Edition shows softer and smooth screen with support upgraded overclocking 95Hz.


Honestly, after reading this thread, I wouldn't go for anything but the 2795. It is _verified_ OC-capable of at least 96 Hz, does not use PWM dimming and is the newest of the three you mentioned.


----------



## SixSixSheep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Honestly, after reading this thread, I wouldn't go for anything but the 2795. It is _verified_ OC-capable of at least 96 Hz, does not use PWM dimming and is the newest of the three you mentioned.


Sounds good. I will be ordering one tonight then. Thank you for the help.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SixSixSheep*
> 
> Sounds good. I will be ordering one tonight then. Thank you for the help.


You're welcome. What with your 980Ti, I'm sure you'll enjoy it!







Due to some financial issues, I'll probably have to stick with my 660 for a while...


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SixSixSheep*
> 
> Sounds good. I will be ordering one tonight then. Thank you for the help.


I will be doing the same thing, where did you order it from?


----------



## zeppoli

so is this the monitor here?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/321719207934?rmvSB=true

do you think I would be able to get this to at least 96hz min. ??

I'm upgrading simply to get a higher refresh rate, my current korean monitor a topsync only does 60hz.


----------



## SixSixSheep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> I will be doing the same thing, where did you order it from?


I ordered from amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TERTMI6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Don't forget to do expedited shipping which is 10$. I used 1 click buy, which defaulted to standard shipping, which would take 3 weeks lol. I contacted customer support and they gave me free expedited shipping however


----------



## SixSixSheep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> so is this the monitor here?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/321719207934?rmvSB=true
> 
> do you think I would be able to get this to at least 96hz min. ??
> 
> I'm upgrading simply to get a higher refresh rate, my current korean monitor a topsync only does 60hz.


Yes that one. It seems that everyone can get at least 96hz. When I get mine I'll post my clocks.


----------



## Jared2608

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SixSixSheep*
> 
> I ordered from amazon:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TERTMI6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
> 
> Don't forget to do expedited shipping which is 10$. I used 1 click buy, which defaulted to standard shipping, which would take 3 weeks lol. I contacted customer support and they gave me free expedited shipping however


Will be interesting to see how many dead pixels you get, if any.


----------



## zeppoli

Just ordered from Ebay..

Perfect pixel, so we'll so how perfect it is.. My Topsync has dead pixels, about 3-4 of them all together.

I'm simply getting this one to take advantage of a higher refresh rate









anyone have exact step by step instructions? I'll start with 96hz and move up when I get a better dvi cable?


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> Just ordered from Ebay..
> 
> Perfect pixel, so we'll so how perfect it is.. My Topsync has dead pixels, about 3-4 of them all together.
> 
> I'm simply getting this one to take advantage of a higher refresh rate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyone have exact step by step instructions? I'll start with 96hz and move up when I get a better dvi cable?


Do you have a Geforce or Radeon card?


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Do you have a Geforce or Radeon card?


geforce.. 980 ti. is this an issue now?


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> geforce.. 980 ti. is this an issue now?


Nope, not an issue at all. Here's how to OC:

1) Create a custom resolution in the Nvidia control panel. Set the resolution as 2560x1440, and the refresh rate to 96Hz. Leave the rest as it is. Apply and close Nvidia Control Panel.
2) Right click the desktop and click screen resolution.
3) Select the monitor you want to overclock and click it.
4) Click "Advanced settings".
5) Click "Monitor".
6) Set the refresh rate at 96Hz, and the colours as "True Colour (32-bit)".
7) Apply.


----------



## karkee

Is this the one also ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Crossover-2795QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-Monitor-2560-x-1440-DVI-D/141577457116?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150604093004%26meid%3Df073f88bd5c7483bbe805bad2572be02%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D321719207934&rt=nc

If so I am gonna order one now.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karkee*
> 
> Is this the one also ?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Crossover-2795QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-Monitor-2560-x-1440-DVI-D/141577457116?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150604093004%26meid%3Df073f88bd5c7483bbe805bad2572be02%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D321719207934&rt=nc
> 
> If so I am gonna order one now.


Yes, it is, but here's a cheaper one: click me.


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Nope, not an issue at all. Here's how to OC:
> 
> 1) Create a custom resolution in the Nvidia control panel. Set the resolution as 2560x1440, and the refresh rate to 96Hz. Leave the rest as it is. Apply and close Nvidia Control Panel.
> 2) Right click the desktop and click screen resolution.
> 3) Select the monitor you want to overclock and click it.
> 4) Click "Advanced settings".
> 5) Click "Monitor".
> 6) Set the refresh rate at 96Hz, and the colours as "True Colour (32-bit)".
> 7) Apply.


wait WHAT??

are you saying I don't need to install any monitor drivers or anything like that? Just follow your instructions exactly? Do that blur test to confirm I'm at 96hz and that's it?


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> wait WHAT??
> 
> are you saying I don't need to install any monitor drivers or anything like that? Just follow your instructions exactly? Do that blur test to confirm I'm at 96hz and that's it?


Yep.


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Yep.


HOLY CRAP!!! Awesome

and if after a few months of 96hz and I want to try 110hz, same thing? and if i get no screen or what not, just restart in safe mode and put it back to 96hz?


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> HOLY CRAP!!! Awesome
> 
> and if after a few months of 96hz and I want to try 110hz, same thing? and if i get no screen or what not, just restart in safe mode and put it back to 96hz?


You could go right to 120Hz, and go down in intervals of 5 (115Hz, 110Hz etc.) until you get no artifacting (96Hz is practically guaranteed though).

I was messing around with the pixel clocks on mine, and I got no screen. However, the Nvidia Contol Panel automatically erverts back to the previous settings in 20 seconds or so unless promted otherwise.

Put that 980Ti to good use


----------



## yixi

I just received my 2795QHD and luckily no dead pixels. Overclocked to 96Hz straight away with no problems. Tried 110Hz but got heavy artifacts all over the screen. I was able to load the ICC profile that UnknownBeing posted through Color Sustainer but had to change the monitor to Global setting as it could not detect the 96Hz mode. Have brightness set at 6 clicks from min (I think there are 12 clicks max) Overall I'm quite happy with this monitor but will have to setup my Xstar DP2710 side by side to determine if I was suffering from PWM side effects. Thanks for the recommendations and info in this thread!


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yixi*
> 
> I just received my 2795QHD and luckily no dead pixels. Overclocked to 96Hz straight away with no problems. Tried 110Hz but got heavy artifacts all over the screen. I was able to load the ICC profile that UnknownBeing posted through Color Sustainer but had to change the monitor to Global setting as it could not detect the 96Hz mode. Have brightness set at 6 clicks from min (I think there are 12 clicks max) Overall I'm quite happy with this monitor but will have to setup my Xstar DP2710 side by side to determine if I was suffering from PWM side effects. Thanks for the recommendations and info in this thread!


No problem! Looking forward to seeing the comparison, and enjoy your new monitor!


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> You could go right to 120Hz, and go down in intervals of 5 (115Hz, 110Hz etc.) until you get no artifacting (96Hz is practically guaranteed though).
> 
> I was messing around with the pixel clocks on mine, and I got no screen. However, the Nvidia Contol Panel automatically erverts back to the previous settings in 20 seconds or so unless promted otherwise.
> 
> Put that 980Ti to good use


Thanks, anyone know what the highest someone was able to go with this? I would be ok with 96hz, it would be a nice increase from 60hz, but if I could get 110hz, that would be even better, lol


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> Thanks, anyone know what the highest someone was able to go with this? I would be ok with 96hz, it would be a nice increase from 60hz, but if I could get 110hz, that would be even better, lol


Highest I've heard of using this monitor is 110Hz.


----------



## haru3173

I've heard that 96hz is the sweetspot for compatibility and smoothness. My monitor can push to 110hz. Should I go 96 or 110?


----------



## Germanian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haru3173*
> 
> I've heard that 96hz is the sweetspot for compatibility and smoothness. My monitor can push to 110hz. Should I go 96 or 110?


for games 110 should be better, but for movies 96 should be better, because movies play 24 fps


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Germanian*
> 
> for games 110 should be better, but for movies 96 should be better, because movies play 24 fps


True, but wouldn't it be more likely for games to offer 96hz as an option? I know alot of games won't allow random refresh rates. I haven't bought my crossover yet, but my current Asus monitor is capable of 75hz without OC and very few games offer that as an option.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Germanian*
> 
> for games 110 should be better, but for movies 96 should be better, because movies play 24 fps


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haru3173*
> 
> I've heard that 96hz is the sweetspot for compatibility and smoothness. My monitor can push to 110hz. Should I go 96 or 110?


The difference between 96 and 110 is barely noticable. I'd go 96.


----------



## darkelixa

Looking to buy a new monitor to upgrade from my small Dell u2414h to a 27" Monitor. Are these crossover monitors worth the money or are they really bad quality of the construction and I heard the stands are horrible in newegg comments ( not that thats anything to go on about)


----------



## darkelixa

Also , would not suggest buying from greensum on ebay, Asked what monitor they would suggest for my r9 290 and they said.

Thank you for contacting us.

We can't guarantee which monitor is compatible with the graphics card that you're using and if it'll support 1440p. Please note that it's the buyer's responsibility to check the compatibility as the manufacturer doesn't accept returns for compatibility reasons. We recommend doing some research to see if any of our monitors are compatible with your graphics card.


----------



## kevaughan

Mine just arrived today. Pixel Perfect version and it's truly perfect with zero dead pixels.



I ordered from ebay and got it shipped to Canada (Toronto).
I placed the order Tuesday night and it didn't ship out until Friday evening. It arrived at my door Monday over the weekend.
Very fast free shipping.
The C.O.D duty fee was $68.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/321719207934?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae7f587fe

First impressions: out of box it felt enormous compared to my Dell U2412m. The colours are significantly warmer than my previous monitor. The pixel density is significantly greater; text feels so small now.

The colour is... wow. Immediately noticed more detail in my games and the difference is astounding.

96hz made a huge difference. I was sceptical but now I'm a believer.


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> True, but wouldn't it be more likely for games to offer 96hz as an option? I know alot of games won't allow random refresh rates. I haven't bought my crossover yet, but my current Asus monitor is capable of 75hz without OC and very few games offer that as an option.


?? really? just turn off vsync, what games do not go over 60FPS??? Most all action games do, maybe some MMo's ? or maybe league of legends.

but almost all AAA games go over 60fps


----------



## shoozter

Hi, so I was highly thinking about buying this monitor since I just got a 980 ti and dont have the budget for a 1440p gsync at the moment. I was wondering what the difference between the 2795 qhd and 27qhd are as the 27qhd is slightly cheaper. Also could you recommended sellers in the U.S. as well?

Edit: forgot to ask if it comes with a Korea to U.S power adapter or will I have to purchase one somewhere else?


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> ?? really? just turn off vsync, what games do not go over 60FPS??? Most all action games do, maybe some MMo's ? or maybe league of legends.
> 
> but almost all AAA games go over 60fps


It doesn't matter what FPS you are getting if the games engine is set to a 60hz resolution. You have to set the game to the refresh rate of your monitor to actually take advantage of a high refresh rate. Many games will only have preset refresh rates instead of using what your monitor is set to, and sometimes there are no options between 60hz and 120hz.


----------



## Phreaker21

Hey guys,
I have been wanting to pull the trigger on a Korean monitor for a while now. But have been waiting for the right unit.
Read through all 35 pages, I tell you it was hair tearing deciding on what unit to go with, up until I read this thread. "Thank god..."

I am coming from a Dell 2407-WFP-HC and have been waiting for something that will offer a better picture "the draw rate on these isn't the best" plus these are 11 years old now so the TFT is getting a little yellow.

I bought my 2795 from
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Perfect-Crossover-2795-QHD-LG-AHIPS-LED-Real-75Hz-27inch-2560-x-1440-Monitor-/221819625597?hash=item33a57ae07d

Seemed the cheapest out of any of the sellers, and was only $15 for the "Perfect" over the top of the non-pefect sale.
He doesn't define what "perfect" is here so I figure I have the eBay gods on my side if anything goes wrong









here is the non-perfect sale
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Crossover-2795-QHD-LG-AHIPS-LED-Real-75Hz-27inch-2560-x-1440-Monitor-/221819625387?hash=item33a57adfab
$429 AUD is a steal...

What is the consensus on the ICC profile? seems like it may be un-necessary?

I will be driving this on dual 280x's so will let you know how I go with my OC when my unit rocks up next week









So excited can't wait. Arc and GTA V is going to be stunning! just wish I could get close to 90fps!

Need any pics or anything answered when I get my monitor? seems like most things have already been answered.
Certainly seems like the time to buy one, I can see these only going up in price like the 2B did back in the day... "Was going to buy one of those but sat on my hands for too long"
Really happy to be staying with a AH-IPS and happy to be moving to one that doesn't have ghosting issues and doesn't cost $999.... but certainly can't knock the 2407... in the 11 years I got my monies worth. "Mrs got my 2nd one..."

*EDIT* Just noticed that this is only $10 cheaper than dream-seller... Has anyone bought from gn_australia ? maybe I should have dropped the extra $10? At the end of the day the monitors seem good, the seller should make little difference


----------



## TylerAD

BF4 + GTA V + Witcher Allows me to select 1440p @ 96 hz within the options menu.


----------



## SixSixSheep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shoozter*
> 
> Hi, so I was highly thinking about buying this monitor since I just got a 980 ti and dont have the budget for a 1440p gsync at the moment. I was wondering what the difference between the 2795 qhd and 27qhd are as the 27qhd is slightly cheaper. Also could you recommended sellers in the U.S. as well?
> 
> Edit: forgot to ask if it comes with a Korea to U.S power adapter or will I have to purchase one somewhere else?


I also just got a 980Ti. I ordered the 2795. Apparently its an updated version, and should be a bit better.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TylerAD*
> 
> BF4 + GTA V + Witcher Allows me to select 1440p @ 96 hz within the options menu.


Yes, that was exactly the point i started with. You are more likely to find 96hz as an option in games than something like 110hz


----------



## shoozter

Oh okay thanks, I noticed that you said you ordered the one on Amazon. I was looking at that one too, if you don't mind could you keep us dated on how that goes once you receive it?


----------



## zeppoli

**DO NOT ORDER FROM DREAM SELLER**

HOLY CRAP!!! Slowest shipping EVER!!! I ordered on the 26th and didn't think much of it as my last Korean Monitor was shipped and delivered within days (less than a week I got it)

I just got a notice from UPS that it just NOW, just today (literally 5 minutes ago) got shipped from South Korea. Is this a joke? Took him almost 4 full days just to ship the damn thing, lol.

I'm in NO rush, but its 2015 and companies do not get to take days and days to ship an item, I hate New Egg for this reason and avoid them as much as possible.
24 hours is the most it should take any company.
sorry just a rant


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> It doesn't matter what FPS you are getting if the games engine is set to a 60hz resolution. You have to set the game to the refresh rate of your monitor to actually take advantage of a high refresh rate. Many games will only have preset refresh rates instead of using what your monitor is set to, and sometimes there are no options between 60hz and 120hz.


you do realize that in your BF4 example, its showing whats available, right?



Again, show me 3 AAA games that is stuck at 60fps


----------



## SixSixSheep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shoozter*
> 
> Oh okay thanks, I noticed that you said you ordered the one on Amazon. I was looking at that one too, if you don't mind could you keep us dated on how that goes once you receive it?


Yeah I definitely will! Going on Vacation soon so it might not get it before I leave


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> you do realize that in your BF4 example, its showing whats available, right?
> 
> 
> 
> Again, show me 3 AAA games that is stuck at 60fps


You are totally missing the point. My point is you have to pick from certain refresh rate presets. I never said anything was stuck at 60. I said that not all games will use just any old number for refresh rate, that 96hz would be more likely to be available in the presets than 110hz.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> You are totally missing the point. My point is you have to pick from certain refresh rate presets. I never said anything was stuck at 60. I said that not all games will use just any old number for refresh rate, that 96hz would be more likely to be available in the presets than 110hz.


Yes but those presets are determined by how the game reads Windows and what your monitor is capable of (custom profiles)








I don't know if there is a specific monitor driver for the 2795 or if you could use one of LG's other AH-IPS monitor drivers (Cat2B?) to have Windows (games) more easily recognize it.

With the QNIX/X-Star most of us use the custom monitor driver specifically to facilitate game recognition and I can tell you all my games that support custom refresh rates, see all my custom profiles created in NVCP/WinDisplay and are available as an option ... and in my case (Nvidia) I see all 3 options ... 96Hz / 110Hz / 120Hz ... IIRC this was also the case with the Cat2B ... your mileage may vary with the AMD GPU's









Additionally it doesn't always work the way it is suppose to ... as I was testing a monitor recently that was only capable of 110Hz stable on my rig with all my game settings left at 120Hz My monitor). BF3 didn't recognize that the monitor was running at 110Hz and loaded the 120Hz profile with the green distortion lines all over the place while the COD games recognized the current monitor refresh rate (110Hz) loaded it correctly and it worked fine! I'm also using Color Sustainer and that may have had an effect also?


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Yes but those presets are determined by how the game reads Windows and what your monitor is capable of (custom profiles)


Exactly what I was trying to say. I'm also confident enough to say that some games just default to whatever your monitor is set for, meaning it will take advantage of 73FPS or even 80FPS if your computer is producing that many frames and the monitor also supports it.


----------



## kevaughan

There is no OSD, correct?

The colour temperature is very warm on mine.


----------



## Unownbeing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevaughan*
> 
> There is no OSD, correct?
> 
> The colour temperature is very warm on mine.


Go to page 29. I have two ICC profiles that will help with that.


----------



## rkl1985

Help! Just got my 2795 today in the mail, plugged it in and it came to life perfectly... Then after deciding to go ahead and overclock to 96hz through Nvidia control panel with it passing test and saving, it now shows this screen after hanging while loading a game to test it out and having to do a hard restart. I cannot get it for the life of me to come off this vertical, colored stripe crap... Tried swapping DVI outputs, cables, even resolutions, hz, etc. Through my old monitor hooked up with the new one. Reinstalled latest whql driver, tweaked aroumd in the cru utility, no clue whats going on. Monitor looked great prior to this happening with no dead pixels noted... Kind of feeling like it just crapped out on me and I now have a return to South Korea on my hands, but it was working fine for the little bit until my pc hung loading a game after overclocking...


----------



## haru3173

have you tried dual monitor and then changing back to stock settings or see if its really 96hz?. I had this happen when i restarted my pc but somehow my 96hz settings didnt stick and it switched to 120hz and i cant see anything so i hooked up my old monitor and found that it was at 120hz, changed it back to 96hz and never had the problem since.


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rkl1985*
> 
> Help! Just got my 2795 today in the mail, plugged it in and it came to life perfectly... Then after deciding to go ahead and overclock to 96hz through Nvidia control panel with it passing test and saving, it now shows this screen after hanging while loading a game to test it out and having to do a hard restart. I cannot get it for the life of me to come off this vertical, colored stripe crap... Tried swapping DVI outputs, cables, even resolutions, hz, etc. Through my old monitor hooked up with the new one. Reinstalled latest whql driver, tweaked aroumd in the cru utility, no clue whats going on. Monitor looked great prior to this happening with no dead pixels noted... Kind of feeling like it just crapped out on me and I now have a return to South Korea on my hands, but it was working fine for the little bit until my pc hung loading a game after overclocking...


hope that its just a bad panel,but sadly that looks like its overclocked too high because that is what you get.

which is HORRIBLE if true.. My monitor comes today and if I don't get at least 96hz I will return promptly and get the qnix.


----------



## rkl1985

I have hooked up my old monitor as a dual display so I can actually see Windows and then try changing things around to get the 2795 running, still stuck, ya the first thing I did was revert to the native res and refresh among all other things I can think of.


----------



## Jared2608

Can OC'ing a monitor kill it?


----------



## soulcrates

Here are some pics of the internals.


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared2608*
> 
> Can OC'ing a monitor kill it?


as likely as killing anything else.. Which means if you were given 100 monitors, it would be tough for you to break any of them by overclocking, even if you were trying to.


----------



## Jared2608

Indeed, I've found it harder than some would expect to kill components, either through OC'ing or just general handling. I don't know how often I've had some random PC part lying in the back of my car for weeks until I remember it. 9/10 times, I plug it in, and it works fine.

Note: Please don't just leave your stuff int he boot of the car and then blame me if it dies


----------



## rkl1985

This is really weird, I have tried more yet, even up to reinstalling the OS now, ofcourse that was for a fresh install of now released Windows 10 but also a good excuse for monitor trouble shooting..... It does sense inputs normally, with pc off the light is red and screen is black, then on boot the light turns blue and it just shows this striped screen... Going to take it to my brothers later today and try it with his pc and rule out gpu/outputs etc... Even though my old monitor works fine still. Currently:


----------



## Jared2608

Man, I hate to say it but I think she's fried...


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rkl1985*
> 
> Help! Just got my 2795 today in the mail, plugged it in and it came to life perfectly... Then after deciding to go ahead and overclock to 96hz through Nvidia control panel with it passing test and saving, it now shows this screen after hanging while loading a game to test it out and having to do a hard restart. I cannot get it for the life of me to come off this vertical, colored stripe crap... Tried swapping DVI outputs, cables, even resolutions, hz, etc. Through my old monitor hooked up with the new one. Reinstalled latest whql driver, tweaked aroumd in the cru utility, no clue whats going on. Monitor looked great prior to this happening with no dead pixels noted... Kind of feeling like it just crapped out on me and I now have a return to South Korea on my hands, but it was working fine for the little bit until my pc hung loading a game after overclocking...


That's not the typical overclocked to high for stability artifacts most of us get







, which are the green lines/blocks flashing and moving on screen. Try this, set everything to stock with your good monitor including removing all custom profiles (I think you have already done this) but also get rid of CRU, you don't need it with Nvidia setups (see OC guide in the OP and my sig). Then completely shut down your machine. Disconnect both monitors and then just reconnect "only" the 2795 as if it were the 1st time ... DO NOT connect the 2nd monitor! This may? work but I'm worried about your artifact pic, that looks more like a bad PCB, but give this a try









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulcrates*
> 
> Here are some pics of the internals.


Very nice ... +R for you








Could you also get a close up of the model numbers on the PCB (2nd pic)? looks like the typical Cat2B OC boards but wanted to compare with Scorpions build *HERE*








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared2608*
> 
> Can OC'ing a monitor kill it?


No one I know of has killed a monitor with just to high of an overclock while testing limits for stability. You may get the green artifacts or even a black screen if way too high but all have been resettable to stable settings.

Degradation over time might be possible if you run an OC beyond the pixel clock limit (450) 120Hz for 24/7 use. But many guys report (QNIX) that they have been running trouble free @120Hz-483 pixel clock 24/7 for over 2 years+ now. More info on Pixel Clocks and timings link in my sig


----------



## Phreaker21

I guys
Was supposed to get my monitor today.
But looks like they did the old, set it to shipped but in reality it has only had the connote filed...

The seller has also dropped his price to $430AUS for a perfect. So I missed out on $14 in a couple of days









I upgraded to windows 10 last night, and I have noticed that the image quality is a little grainy?
Has anyone else noticed this? I am running 2x 280x's

The last thing I want right now is for my picture quality to take a hit prior to this screen rocking up.
I have tried the latest drivers to no avail.


----------



## akr12

I'm definitely considering buying this monitor. However, I will be using a mounting arm. I saw a few people saying they would do the same, but did not see anyone actually implement it.

Any ideas on if this is easy or feasible? Some mention you have to disassemble the case to remove the base?


----------



## Frenchie

What has been the price trend of the2795QHD, not the 27QHD, over the past month? Would i be able to find it at $280?


----------



## soulcrates

TomcatV here's the pic you requested and the panel is a LG LM270WQ1-SLC2.


----------



## zeppoli

got mine today. first thing I noticed, its light.. SUPER LIGHT! compared to my 1440P Topsync Korean monitor its about half the weight.

It's a matte finish, no question about it, its not a hybrid matte its without a doubt 100% matte finish like my older acer monitor.

It does not have that color popness that a glossy finish has, its not nearly as sharp either as my Topsync monitor, but that doesn't meant its not good.
It has zero backlight bleed and zero dead pixels.. I only bought this monitor to OC to a higher refresh, and it does that just fine.
96hz without issue (so far?)

I played BF4,dying light and witcher 3, all seem to have a much smoother motion, more enjoyable I think.. Am I squinting more writing this? I don't know yet.

I think every monitor you kind of have to get used to?


----------



## shoozter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> got mine today. first thing I noticed, its light.. SUPER LIGHT! compared to my 1440P Topsync Korean monitor its about half the weight.
> 
> It's a matte finish, no question about it, its not a hybrid matte its without a doubt 100% matte finish like my older acer monitor.
> 
> It does not have that color popness that a glossy finish has, its not nearly as sharp either as my Topsync monitor, but that doesn't meant its not good.
> It has zero backlight bleed and zero dead pixels.. I only bought this monitor to OC to a higher refresh, and it does that just fine.
> 96hz without issue (so far?)
> 
> I played BF4,dying light and witcher 3, all seem to have a much smoother motion, more enjoyable I think.. Am I squinting more writing this? I don't know yet.
> 
> I think every monitor you kind of have to get used to?


Hey just wondering from where you bought yours from and how long did it take to be delivered?


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shoozter*
> 
> Hey just wondering from where you bought yours from and how long did it take to be delivered?


Ordered from dream seller, I ordered on Sunday night and made a post a few posts up about how terrible he was.. This was because I saw he shipped it YESTERDAY!! from south korea, lol

guess what.. he did next day from another country.. So my rant was wrong..

Monitor is brand spankin new. has the devil face on the front (is this possessed?lol)

actually the quality is top notch, brushed alum. look on the bottom.

I'm EXTREMELY happy even going from my awesome eye popping topsync monitor.

I paid 330 bucks or something, for the perfect pixel one. It does look like my box was opened, probably to check said perfect pixel. or maybe not who knows.

no backlight bleed, no dead pixels. looks like a 500 dollar monitor easily

did I mentioned 96hz??


----------



## shoozter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> Ordered from dream seller, I ordered on Sunday night and made a post a few posts up about how terrible he was.. This was because I saw he shipped it YESTERDAY!! from south korea, lol
> 
> guess what.. he did next day from another country.. So my rant was wrong..
> 
> Monitor is brand spankin new. has the devil face on the front (is this possessed?lol)
> 
> actually the quality is top notch, brushed alum. look on the bottom.
> 
> I'm EXTREMELY happy even going from my awesome eye popping topsync monitor.
> 
> I paid 330 bucks or something, for the perfect pixel one. It does look like my box was opened, probably to check said perfect pixel. or maybe not who knows.
> 
> no backlight bleed, no dead pixels. looks like a 500 dollar monitor easily
> 
> did I mentioned 96hz??


Wow that's really cool, I'm still debating on where I should purchase mine but that sounds really convincing, also what card are you running?


----------



## Nvydrew

Hey everyone, I'm new to this forum but it has helped me immensely. I pulled the trigger after reading stuff from this thread and got my Crossover 2795QHD from Dream_seller yesterday. I immediately plugged it in and everything looked fuzzy. Almost as if it has every other pixel.

I'm running a hackintosh with OSX yosemite and Windows 10, both of which have been completely stable with my old 1080p monitor. I noticed that it even looks fuzzy in the bios and boot screens. I am still waiting for dream_seller to get back to me. I also tried ordering and using a different dual link DVI cable from amazon and that didn't help.

Is my monitor defective?! I really hope not.

Any input would help. Thank you guys so much


----------



## TylerAD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nvydrew*
> 
> Hey everyone, I'm new to this forum but it has helped me immensely. I pulled the trigger after reading stuff from this thread and got my Crossover 2795QHD from Dream_seller yesterday. I immediately plugged it in and everything looked fuzzy. Almost as if it has every other pixel.
> 
> I'm running a hackintosh with OSX yosemite and Windows 10, both of which have been completely stable with my old 1080p monitor. I noticed that it even looks fuzzy in the bios and boot screens. I am still waiting for dream_seller to get back to me. I also tried ordering and using a different dual link DVI cable from amazon and that didn't help.
> 
> Is my monitor defective?! I really hope not.
> 
> Any input would help. Thank you guys so much


Sadly I think so. If you have changed the cable and configured the display im not sure what could be still to try/change. This is on a GPU right, not like integrated graphics? Did you try installing new graphics drivers?


----------



## TylerAD

Within Win 10 mine acted quite funny at first. I did a restart, uninstalled drivers, reinstalled drivers and it worked well for me. I would try to uninstall/reinstall drivers.


----------



## Nvydrew

Yea its connected to a GTX 970. I'll try reinstalling the drivers but its doing it in OSX Yosemite and Windows 10 and it looks like that in the BIOS. Unless I'm missing some setting.


----------



## RTK29

Been lurking this thread for a few weeks and went ahead and ordered from Dream-seller after seeing all the good results. Got my monitor this evening less than a week after ordering, but I'm having some serious problems with it.

I went from a completely stable 1080p screen and plugged my 2795 into my GPU. It worked and looked beautiful for a few minutes as soon as I plugged it in and I even seemed to have no dead pixels. Woo, great!









The computer recognizes it as a 27QHD. There was a little backlight bleed, but nothing I couldn't deal with, so I went to check out a video in 1440p on Youtube. I didn't try any type of overclocking. Suddenly lines appeared and started going across my monitor horizontally left to right and then there were artifact looking things (best I can described it) following my cursor as I moved it.

I immediately stopped the video and tried a restart of my computer to see if that was the problem. What appeared on my monitor was vertical white lines across the entire screen like this



and here is a closeup.



The best I could tell is that the white stripes are about half as wide as the normal sections of screen-but that might be an optical illusion- and they go across the entire screen uniformly.

Something tells me this isn't how the monitor is supposed to look. I tried two different power cords, and re-seating the DVI cable on both ends but I don't have another here to test if that is the problem. Crossfire both on (2x 7950) and off and any setting I could think of to change in Windows or Catalyst. Nothing I did worked and it just stayed like that until I replaced it with my old monitor which again worked perfectly. I don't really think it is my current hardware because my 1080p monitor worked both before and after trying the Crossover.

Did I get a defective monitor and should I start initiating a return/refund or am I missing something here?

Would be just my luck to get a totally busted monitor.







pretty disappointed.

Thanks guys

edit: I also tried disabling CF and connecting the monitor to both ports and the screen did the same thing off both cards.

edit2: the only thing I can think of besides a bad DVI-D cable is that I'm connecting the monitor to a DVI-I port with a DVI-D cable. But the output signal should be functionally the same because DVI-I is just DVI-D + Analog signal, right? Why would it give me any picture at all if it couldn't transmit the signal?


----------



## zeppoli

All these problems in the last few days, its scarring me..

I'm saving my box for a couple weeks that's for sure.

While my colors on my desktop look "dull" and words and background doesn't pop like it used it, I must say the 96hz and all games I tried, GTA V,BF4, Dying light, Witcher 3 all look awesome. color wise almost as good as my topsync 1440P monitor did.

The whole 96hz is why I upgraded and I must say, its totally worth it. My eyes no longer strain while playing, its so butter smooth now with no hesitation like it used to.


----------



## RTK29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> All these problems in the last few days, its scarring me...


I can tell you that I was definitely disappointed in what's happened so far. Really hoping I'm just missing something stupid on my part and not going to have to initiate a return.


----------



## zeppoli

well if it helps I ordered from greensum for my topsync, when I got it a tiny one single dead pixel, but the main problem I had was a horizontal line on the top of the screen when fast moving motion was going on.. It was an issue hands down, I returned it and had to get a new one.

Thankfully they are good with returns.

I can tell you that this monitor is AWESOME. I hope it doesn't go bad on me, that said though, I would give it one more chance.


----------



## shoozter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> well if it helps I ordered from greensum for my topsync, when I got it a tiny one single dead pixel, but the main problem I had was a horizontal line on the top of the screen when fast moving motion was going on.. It was an issue hands down, I returned it and had to get a new one.
> 
> Thankfully they are good with returns.
> 
> I can tell you that this monitor is AWESOME. I hope it doesn't go bad on me, that said though, I would give it one more chance.


How is the return policy from dream-seller and ebay in general?


----------



## Frenchie

Did you pay shipping for return? If so how much was it?


----------



## zeppoli

I returned my top sync monitor, not this 2795, he sent me a new one right when he saw ups picked up the old one. That he gave me a label for.
It was not dream seller that I returned to.. but listen, we're dealing with paypal and ebay, they know if we have to return something they will honor it 110%, or I just put a stop payment on paypal and they will not pay him.
Also honor is very important to those people.


----------



## norse-legend

After reading this thread, I couldn't resist and pulled the trigger on two! Fingers crossed everything turns up ok!
Can't wait to see GTA V on these things!

edit: ordered from dream-seller for those wondering


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norse-legend*
> 
> After reading this thread, I couldn't resist and pulled the trigger on two! Fingers crossed everything turns up ok!
> Can't wait to see GTA V on these things!


I dont play GTA V much anymore, been into dying light,but I have to say GTA V showed the best results with higher refresh, it was butter smooth, all games are now, but GTA V shined the most











and here is a frame skip test with 1/2 shutter speed.

looks to be good


----------



## norse-legend

Sweet! Hopefully i can get mine up to 96hz too








Does anyone have a solution if i want to connect a ps4 or any other hdmi device into this monitor @ 1080p? Does it have a scaler?


----------



## SloppyG

Great thread. Been looking for a better gaming monitor and this thing appeared to have the features I wanted.
- reasonable gaming resolution 2560/1440
- matte screen
- flicker free
- ips is a bonus

Ordered one on 7/27 late in the day - arrived this morning 7/31. As it shipped from Korea (to ohio, USA) that's pretty amazing.

It's light, the case is generic and I had to open the monitor to remove the base (4 screws then just pop the front off - easiest to lie it down face up). Looks nice on a VESA mount.

Anyway.. This seems like an amazing monitor. Haven't seen a stuck or lit/unlit pixel yet and found 96/100 hz refresh rates to be no issue for this panel. 105 caused a single pixel to flash green, 110 resulted in some green lines. As I'm still just using a 770 gtx I just left it at 100. The blur test website showed a continuous/connected row of boxes so I do not appear to be dropping frames.

As with any ips there's a little glow, but poping it on my vesa stand lets me angle it better to minimize that.

There's a little backlight bleed in the corners but it seemed very minimal-I haven't adjusted brightness at all so I imagine after I tweak it a bit even that will be a non issue. I haven't played any dark games yet, just looked at some static images but impressed with the blacks/level of bleed I see.

Overall really pleased-great panel, amazing colors. Mainly been playing world of warships which I run maxed other than low AA and everything's gorgeous. The ips screen plus not too aggressive matte screen really pops.

Bought mine from dream seller-Very happy with the transaction.

I used their UK auction trying to save money on the exchange/Amex intl fee made it break even so it doesn't matter ha.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=331605525779&globalID=EBAY-US

[Perfect] CrossOver 2795QHD 2560x1440 LG AH-IPS Non-Glare 27" Monitor


----------



## SloppyG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norse-legend*
> 
> Sweet! Hopefully i can get mine up to 96hz too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a solution if i want to connect a ps4 or any other hdmi device into this monitor @ 1080p? Does it have a scaler?


Dvi only, I don't believe it does its own scaling. It's pass through and depends entirely on a pcs video card to do all that.

I don't believe this will work with any console.


----------



## tonyeezy

I pulled the trigger and ordered from Dream-seller yesterday (30th). I figured what's $15 and ordered the pixel perfect version just for piece of mind. I'm in New York hoping it comes quick like everyone says, can't wait to get a look at this thing. Coming from 2 ASUS VH242H monitors so this will probably blow me away lol. I have a GTX 970 I'll let you guys know how I make out.


----------



## Phreaker21

Ordered on 27th, still hasn't been sent.
Emailed seller and no response.
Major remorse for not buying from Dream-seller for $10 more.


----------



## Phreaker21

So looking at this,
http://translate.google.com.au/translate?hl=en&sl=ko&u=http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html%3Ftmp%3Dproduct%26pg%3D2795QHD&prev=search
looks like 100hz is going to be close to the max that we will push out of these.

To make matters worse....

http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&hl=en&prev=search&rurl=translate.google.com.au&sl=ko&u=http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html%3Ftmp%3Dproduct%26pg%3D27ganjidog&usg=ALkJrhiw2WbhG_r7VvFFKaWQawzi9x51mA

looks like they have just dropped a new AH-IPS panel that is capable of 120hz...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CrossOver-27Ganjidog-AHIPS-D-2560x1440-60Hz-WQHD-16-9-AH-IPS-borderless-/321784828415?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aebded1ff

So I guess it is the bane of all IT do you keep waiting for the next thing? or pull the trigger.
I will be happy with 96hz, I run everything cranked so doubt i would hit over 100fps on anything.


----------



## Jared2608

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phreaker21*
> 
> Ordered on 27th, still hasn't been sent.
> Emailed seller and no response.
> Major remorse for not buying from Dream-seller for $10 more.


Which seller did you get it from? Dream Seller doesn't ship here....


----------



## norse-legend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phreaker21*
> 
> So looking at this,
> http://translate.google.com.au/translate?hl=en&sl=ko&u=http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html%3Ftmp%3Dproduct%26pg%3D2795QHD&prev=search
> looks like 100hz is going to be close to the max that we will push out of these.
> 
> To make matters worse....
> 
> http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&hl=en&prev=search&rurl=translate.google.com.au&sl=ko&u=http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html%3Ftmp%3Dproduct%26pg%3D27ganjidog&usg=ALkJrhiw2WbhG_r7VvFFKaWQawzi9x51mA
> 
> looks like they have just dropped a new AH-IPS panel that is capable of 120hz...
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CrossOver-27Ganjidog-AHIPS-D-2560x1440-60Hz-WQHD-16-9-AH-IPS-borderless-/321784828415?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aebded1ff
> 
> So I guess it is the bane of all IT do you keep waiting for the next thing? or pull the trigger.
> I will be happy with 96hz, I run everything cranked so doubt i would hit over 100fps on anything.


Anybody able to shed any light on the 27Ganjidog? $45 for 120hz capable seems worth it to me. Should I cancel my order and go for this?


----------



## SloppyG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norse-legend*
> 
> Anybody able to shed any light on the 27Ganjidog? $45 for 120hz capable seems worth it to me. Should I cancel my order and go for this?


Well... looks like a much thinner bezel and the stand appears that it can be removed without opening the monitor. The stand thing would have been a positive for me.

Not sure if it's flicker free?

It does have more inputs, which is interesting and makes it much more flexible.. however.. I believe one of the positives with the 2795 is that it's pass through and thus should have some of the lowest input lag possible?

Hard to know until someone tests it. 2795 is a bit a known quantity - there's the panel lottery of course but otherwise it's pretty solid for it's purpose (PC only, great for gaming).


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phreaker21*
> 
> So looking at this,
> http://translate.google.com.au/translate?hl=en&sl=ko&u=http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html%3Ftmp%3Dproduct%26pg%3D2795QHD&prev=search
> looks like 100hz is going to be close to the max that we will push out of these.
> 
> To make matters worse....
> 
> http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&hl=en&prev=search&rurl=translate.google.com.au&sl=ko&u=http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html%3Ftmp%3Dproduct%26pg%3D27ganjidog&usg=ALkJrhiw2WbhG_r7VvFFKaWQawzi9x51mA
> 
> looks like they have just dropped a new AH-IPS panel that is capable of 120hz...
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CrossOver-27Ganjidog-AHIPS-D-2560x1440-60Hz-WQHD-16-9-AH-IPS-borderless-/321784828415?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aebded1ff
> 
> So I guess it is the bane of all IT do you keep waiting for the next thing? or pull the trigger.
> I will be happy with 96hz, I run everything cranked so doubt i would hit over 100fps on anything.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *norse-legend*
> 
> Anybody able to shed any light on the 27Ganjidog? $45 for 120hz capable seems worth it to me. Should I cancel my order and go for this?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't fall for this multi-input 27Ganjidog BS marketing for 120Hz overclock (or even 96Hz), not yet anyway







... Dream-seller and accessorieswhole tried to pull this scam on the QNIX/X-Star club just over a year ago with the multi-input versions ... see more info *HERE*









Multi-input versions of these single-input (no scaler) truly overclockable Korean panels have been shown to register a 120Hz overclock in the NVCP ... *BUT THEY ARE DROPPING FRAMES* ... making the overclock worthless!









Eventually the multi-input True10 versions of the QNIX QX2710 did show in some cases to reach an 85Hz OC without dropping frames, *but that is it!* Additionally the multi-input scaler was producing up to 2 frames of "input-lag" over the single-input/no scaler models ... yikes









You'll see earlier in this thread confirmation pics for the 2795 not dropping frames @ 96Hz or 110Hz ... or more recently zeppoli's fine documentation *HERE* ... +R









So until someone absolutely needs a muti-input version, buys one, and tests it's OC with pics showing it's NOT Dropping Frames like in the QNIX link above... I'd stay way far away from any multi-input Korean panel that claims it overclocks to 96Hz - 120Hz


----------



## mjmeli

Mine arrived today from dream-seller. Ordered late night on 7/27 and it arrived yesterday, 7/31, so a real quick process for a shipment from SK. I put in the extra $20 for the perfect pixel even though it probably wasn't worth it.

Zero dead pixels, no backlight bleed.

Very solid monitor overall. Only complaint is that the bezel isn't tight to the screen on the bottom but I really don't care.

Got the OC to 96 Hz easily. Will try 120 Hz later.

Very happy...worth the money.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mjmeli*
> 
> Got the OC to 96 Hz easily. Will try 120 Hz later.
> 
> Very happy...worth the money.


Looks like I'll be getting a Crossover then. I don't want to risk having an issue with PWM flickering from the Qnix/Xstar monitors.

Let me know if you manage a higher refresh


----------



## Phreaker21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared2608*
> 
> Which seller did you get it from? Dream Seller doesn't ship here....


http://myworld.ebay.com.au/gn_australia

He has since cranked his prices... and has yet to ship mine.
Dreamseller will ship to Aus is that is where you are?


----------



## Phreaker21

I translated as much as I could off of the crossover website.
I didn't see reference to pwm free, but there was reference to "flicker free for eyes"... so maybe?

What I was getting at is the 2795 is rated for 100hz on the crossover site, and this seems to be the wall we are hitting, with a few exceptions hitting 110hz
while this 27Ganjidog is rated for 120hz on the crossover site, given the 2795 is dead stable at 100hz and is rated for it, I would assume the 27Ganjidog is dead stable at 120hz

the 27Ganjidog also draws 37W verses the 60W of the 2795.

Now I am still getting the 2795. The no PWM is a big deal for me as I can see CRT and TFT flicker so PWM would drive me insane.

My friend at work speaks fluent Korean, if you like I can send Crossover an email and ask for clarity on the PWM on the 27Ganjidog
At the moment there is only one seller and for me it is $40 more. if it is 120hz stable and PWM free it would be worth it.
If the 27Ganjidog does have a PWM I certainly wouldn't buy it.

But it does look like a much nicer monitor and stand.

I am not trying to bag on the 2795, I have certainly bought one, just wanted to bring this forward, hoping someone who speaks Korean could shed some light.

Also the 2795 only has a singular input and is know to not suffer from input lag, while the Ganjidog is multiinput, So it is certainly possible that it would suffer from some input lag. It very well may not, but looking at screens from the past it is likely

It is also worth noting this bad boy...

http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&hl=en&prev=search&rurl=translate.google.com.au&sl=ko&u=http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html%3Ftmp%3Dproduct%26pg%3D27gamekill3&usg=ALkJrhjnXdsIuOhBAW3ULf-SW4CJbrwfAQ

This is also 120hz AH-IPS... But I cannot find any sellers.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phreaker21*
> 
> I translated as much as I could off of the crossover website.
> I didn't see reference to pwm free, but there was reference to "flicker free for eyes"... so maybe?
> 
> What I was getting at is the 2795 is rated for 100hz on the crossover site, and this seems to be the wall we are hitting, with a few exceptions hitting 110hz
> while this 27Ganjidog is rated for 120hz on the crossover site, given the 2795 is dead stable at 100hz and is rated for it, I would assume the 27Ganjidog is dead stable at 120hz
> 
> the 27Ganjidog also draws 37W verses the 60W of the 2795.
> 
> Now I am still getting the 2795. The no PWM is a big deal for me as I can see CRT and TFT flicker so PWM would drive me insane.
> 
> My friend at work speaks fluent Korean, if you like I can send Crossover an email and ask for clarity on the PWM on the 27Ganjidog
> At the moment there is only one seller and for me it is $40 more. if it is 120hz stable and PWM free it would be worth it.
> If the 27Ganjidog does have a PWM I certainly wouldn't buy it.
> 
> But it does look like a much nicer monitor and stand.
> 
> I am not trying to bag on the 2795, I have certainly bought one, just wanted to bring this forward, hoping someone who speaks Korean could shed some light.
> 
> Also the 2795 only has a singular input and is know to not suffer from input lag, while the Ganjidog is multiinput, So it is certainly possible that it would suffer from some input lag. It very well may not, but looking at screens from the past it is likely
> 
> It is also worth noting this bad boy...
> 
> http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&hl=en&prev=search&rurl=translate.google.com.au&sl=ko&u=http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html%3Ftmp%3Dproduct%26pg%3D27gamekill3&usg=ALkJrhjnXdsIuOhBAW3ULf-SW4CJbrwfAQ
> 
> This is also 120hz AH-IPS... But I cannot find any sellers.


That last one you linked lists a touch OSD, OSD means addon board, and from my understanding that means input lag and probably is not overclockable. I really would like some definite information on the ganjidog though, since I still have a couple of months before I will be buying my first 1440p monitor. I was pretty committed to the 2795 but that looks interesting.


----------



## zeppoli

so after a good amount of gaming, I don't know what it is , honestly I don't even know what flicker free of pwn means, but @ 96hz and this monitor my eyes seem to not get fatigued like it used to with my eye candy topsyn bright colored monitor, lol.

I haven't tried anything over 96hz, I'm afraid of it going bad or something , lol. besides even with a 980ti @1440p most games don't go much higher than 100fps with everything maxed.. I mean sure BF4 can hit 200 sometimes, but things like GTA V, dying light ,DCS , witcher3 I won't benefit much from higher refresh.

very happy!


----------



## zeppoli

also my go to show off video






make sure its on 1440p and full screen


----------



## SloppyG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> so after a good amount of gaming, I don't know what it is , honestly I don't even know what flicker free of pwn means, but @ 96hz and this monitor my eyes seem to not get fatigued like it used to with my eye candy topsyn bright colored monitor, lol.


Everything you might want to know about flicker free pwm. It could be a big reason why your eyes don't hurt using this monitor.

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/pulse_width_modulation.htm

Glad you're enjoying the monitor, I love mine too.


----------



## Phreaker21

So are those ATI users just running 96hz with the CRU?

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU

Does it work within Windows 10 OK

really dont want to mess with my timings unless I really need to.


----------



## mjmeli

Update to the post I made yesterday...

Originally there were no dead pixels or any issues. Today I noticed two problems. One was a black dot (stuck pixels?) that is pretty noticeable on bright backgrounds. Another is a small bright blemish, which is noticeable on bright backgrounds.

Here is an image showing them (black dot is obvious, white blemish is below and slightly to the right):

http://i.imgur.com/S5Swd9N.png

I'm not exactly sure what these are caused by but they definitely just appeared today during normal use and were not originally there. I'll contact dream-seller later and see what they say.

EDIT: A short time later I have found a few definite stuck pixels that have popped up and a couple more black dots like the one above.


----------



## Unownbeing

I just thought to share some info about an artifact issue Ive had with this monitor. With an OC of 96Hz and reduced timings I still get the occasional artifact ONLY in the Dirt3 main menu. It lasts for about 5-10 seconds while progressing along the screen maybe 1/8"-1/4" or so. Its not a great pic but, just wondering how many people have seen this with their display.

Edit: Now that Im playing more games recently I have noticed this artifact occurring on the map/re-spawn screen in BF4. It only occurs on that screen..with a bluish background and the affected area does not shift position.
Also this time it is a continuous band of blue pixels running vertically along the right side of the screen.
I guess I must have got a weak panel..maybe thats why it appeared to be open when i got it.

I dont have any pictures but its very similar to what majikfx was experiencing posted on page 8.


----------



## zeppoli

well I knew it was too good to be true.

naa, everything is fine, but I did fine ONE single tiny stuck pixel.. Only on black screens can you see it, and ONLY if you are looking for it, and even then its hard to find. it also only shows when the screen is black, not gray or any other color.

I took a picture, the first one is from far back, can't even see it, unless I zoom in with my camera



now zoomed in



Im very anal about things like this, but this doesn't bother me. the extra 500 bucks would have for the Acer or Swift monitor lol


----------



## Phreaker21

You can try a stuck pixel fixer.
They can do the trick.


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phreaker21*
> 
> You can try a stuck pixel fixer.
> They can do the trick.


yepp

that fixed it







I went to http://www.jscreenfix.com/

whats nice is you only mark the area where the stuck pixel was and it just does a small area.. I left it for about 10 minutes and I can just barely, VERY VERY barely see a tiny dot. maybe its my eyes but its pretty much unstuck..


----------



## Phreaker21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> yepp
> 
> that fixed it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went to http://www.jscreenfix.com/
> 
> whats nice is you only mark the area where the stuck pixel was and it just does a small area.. I left it for about 10 minutes and I can just barely, VERY VERY barely see a tiny dot. maybe its my eyes but its pretty much unstuck..


Sweet glad to hear it!

A massage in the area can help it too.


----------



## zeppoli

I got greedy and decided to try 120hz.. sure enough, works fine









I brought it back down to 110hz. should I just put it back at 96hz you think? or keep it at 110?


----------



## Phreaker21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> I got greedy and decided to try 120hz.. sure enough, works fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I brought it back down to 110hz. should I just put it back at 96hz you think? or keep it at 110?


96hz will give you better game support and smoother movie playback as it is divisible by 24.

but if you are a hardcore CS : GOer and need that little more performance, go 110.

did you need to tweak your timings to get to 120?

Turns out my seller did not have stock... He may be sending mine tomorrow.








Super pissed I didn't get it from Dream-Seller now.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phreaker21*
> 
> Turns out my seller did not have stock... He may be sending mine tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Super pissed I didn't get it from Dream-Seller now.


Paycheck comes on the 8th. Going on vacation the 7th. I'll have to wait till the end of the month before I can get mine :'( /firstworldproblems

I'll bring my laptop so I can order it before I'm back. Less time spent waiting till I get it


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phreaker21*
> 
> 96hz will give you better game support and smoother movie playback as it is divisible by 24.
> 
> but if you are a hardcore CS : GOer and need that little more performance, go 110.
> 
> did you need to tweak your timings to get to 120?
> 
> Turns out my seller did not have stock... He may be sending mine tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Super pissed I didn't get it from Dream-Seller now.


tweak my timing?? whats that mean?

I dont play CS:go, lol but BF4 was working just fine @ 110hz.. same smoothness as 96hz IMO


----------



## TweedleDurp

Hi guys, first post on your lovely forums. I just wanted to say thank you for your help in researching my monitor. I was close to pulling the trigger on a BenQ, but decided to take another look at the Korean panels (almost half the price).

I settled on the Crossover 2795 and ordered one from Amazon, sold by BizBuy International. Price was $320, no tax from Korea, and paid 10 extra for expedited shipping. It shipped from Seoul on Thursday and arrived Monday.

I hooked it up to be sure it was working and was pleased to see that I couldn't find any bad pixels. I removed the stand (a bit of a pain) hung it on my Vesa and started playing with it. It looked great straight out of the box other than the brightness being too high. I overclocked it to 96hz and it runs beautifully. At 110hz I started getting some green static, but I didn't try touching anything other than the refresh rate. Overall I'm very happy and I'll probably try getting it to run clean at 110 tonight.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TweedleDurp*
> 
> Hi guys, first post on your lovely forums. I just wanted to say thank you for your help in researching my monitor.


Welcome to the forums! How gratifying to see someone who could actually make sense of 43 pages (and counting) of troubleshooting, general questions and (few and far between







) informative posts.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TweedleDurp*
> 
> At 110hz I started getting some green static, but I didn't try touching anything other than the refresh rate. Overall I'm very happy and I'll probably try getting it to run clean at 110 tonight.


Good luck. If you do get it running, post a guide/how-to/general procedure on how you did it, so other users will be able to benefit from your method.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Kinda regretting buying a QX2710 after seeing this thread; the PWM motion blur on it is worse than I thought it would be. Damn you, Slickdeals!!!


----------



## Phreaker21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> tweak my timing?? whats that mean?
> 
> I dont play CS:go, lol but BF4 was working just fine @ 110hz.. same smoothness as 96hz IMO


I was referring to modifying your pixel clock, as per this guide.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club

Glad to hear you got it working without any major tweaks


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> I got greedy and decided to try 120hz.. sure enough, works fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I brought it back down to 110hz. should I just put it back at 96hz you think? or keep it at 110?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Phreaker21*
> 
> 96hz will give you better game support and smoother movie playback as it is divisible by 24.
> 
> but if you are a hardcore CS : GOer and need that little more performance, go 110.
> 
> did you need to tweak your timings to get to 120?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> tweak my timing?? whats that mean?
> 
> I dont play CS:go, lol but BF4 was working just fine @ 110hz.. same smoothness as 96hz IMO
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Phreaker21*
> 
> I was modifying your pixel clock, as per this guide.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club
> 
> Glad to hear you got it working without any major tweaks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Good advice from Phreaker ... +R









@zeppoli ... NICE! I think you have the 1st confirmed "Golden" 2795 (120Hz+)









How high will it clock? I had one (QNIX) reach 130Hz







... As far as setting your desktop/work/browse overclock you may find *THIS* interesting. Phreakers link to the OC guide explains pixel clocks fairly well (it's also linked on the 1st page and my sig) and even though it's from the Qnix (Samsung PLS) thread it's almost word for word applicable to the 2795/LG panel. Also note that many guys have been running flat out @120Hz 24/7 for over 2 years now including the Cat2B, me I'm a bit more conservative (see link above)








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Welcome to the forums! How gratifying to see someone who could actually make sense of 43 pages (and counting) of troubleshooting, general questions and (few and far between
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) informative posts.
> Good luck. If you do get it running, post a guide/how-to/general procedure on how you did it, so other users will be able to benefit from your method.


43 pages







... This made me laugh hard







But then again I come from the 2+ year old QNIX thread ... you talk about pages upon pages (almost 2400) of less than interesting info ... you can see how important the OP becomes and good guys like yourself that help moderate the thread ... +R ... keep it up









Checkout the OC links and maybe the Yamakazi Cat2B (LG/IPS panel closer related to the 2795) thread *HERE* for more tips









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> Kinda regretting buying a QX2710 after seeing this thread; the PWM motion blur on it is worse than I thought it would be. Damn you, Slickdeals!!!


Yep that s##ks ... you must have a matte panel ... I no longer recommend the QX2710 Matte over the 2795 just because of the PWM









BUT if you know you want a glossy panel your choices/budget are limited ... IF ONLY the 2795 came in a glossy panel I would be buying one right now as a backup and for friends future builds ... a true glossy 2795 would be my go to / must have monitor


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phreaker21*
> 
> I was modifying your pixel clock, as per this guide.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club
> 
> Glad to hear you got it working without any major tweaks


so I should still mess with the timing even though its working fine just by making a custom 110hz in nvidia control panel?


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Good advice from Phreaker ... +R
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @zeppoli ... NICE! I think you have the 1st confirmed "Golden" 2795 (120Hz+)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How high will it clock? I had one (QNIX) reach 130Hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... As far as setting your desktop/work/browse overclock you may find *THIS* interesting. Phreakers link to the OC guide explains pixel clocks fairly well (it's also linked on the 1st page and my sig) and even though it's from the Qnix (Samsung PLS) thread it's almost word for word applicable to the 2795/LG panel. Also note that many guys have been running flat out @120Hz 24/7 for over 2 years now including the Cat2B, me I'm a bit more conservative (see link above)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 43 pages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... This made me laugh hard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But then again I come from the 2+ year old QNIX thread ... you talk about pages upon pages (almost 2400) of less than interesting info ... you can see how important the OP becomes and good guys like yourself that help moderate the thread ... +R ... keep it up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Checkout the OC links and maybe the Yamakazi Cat2B (LG/IPS panel closer related to the 2795) thread *HERE* for more tips
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep that s##ks ... you must have a matte panel ... I no longer recommend the QX2710 Matte over the 2795 just because of the PWM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT if you know you want a glossy panel your choices/budget are limited ... IF ONLY the 2795 came in a glossy panel I would be buying one right now as a backup and for friends future builds ... a true glossy 2795 would be my go to / must have monitor


I put it at 120hz, did the refresh rate test on blur website confirmed it was 120hz , took some pictures, no frames skipping using 1/2 second shutter speed, perfect.. got scared and brought it back down to 110hz, lol.

I might be misunderstanding here.. If I close this thread and never look back leaving my monitor at 110hz, is something bad going to happen? I still don't get this timing stuff? from what I'm reading its for people trying to get MORE out their monitor, if they can't hit say 120hz, to "tighten" the timing down, or loosen it to get it to work. If mine is working fine where I want it, why do I have to do this timing stuff?
just curious?

ok thanks


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> 43 pages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... This made me laugh hard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But then again I come from the 2+ year old QNIX thread ... you talk about pages upon pages (almost 2400) of less than interesting info ... you can see how important the OP becomes and good guys like yourself that help moderate the thread ... +R ... keep it up


Thanks a lot! When I joined the discussion in this thread, the pages were in the single digits and there were only a few users who were thinking to order. I'm really glad to se what this thread has become, kudos to anyone who has helped/asked a question on the thread- it is now the *first* result on Google, beating out the eBay and Amazon results


----------



## zeppoli

linus tech tips just did a video about the new acer 34" ultra wide curved monitor.. How its almost perfect except for no Gsync. He claimed that its very high refresh rate of only 75hz is awesome.

He explained that going from 60-75hz its a huge difference, something that he can notice, more than going from 75-144hz.

wonder how true that is?

Quick question, if I keep my monitor at 110hz instead of 96hz, will I still get the same benefit? I see many mentioned how videos will scale better or something because 24times4 is 96 and it will be better, someone also said more support for games @ 96hz. but does that mean at 110hz you actually won't get the same benefit ? or does it just mean its a waste in most situations, but even a game that only supports 96hz for example, doesn't mean I won't get 96hz if my panel is at 110, just means I wont get 110, correct?


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> linus tech tips just did a video about the new acer 34" ultra wide curved monitor.. How its almost perfect except for no Gsync. He claimed that its very high refresh rate of only 75hz is awesome.
> 
> He explained that going from 60-75hz its a huge difference, something that he can notice, more than going from 75-144hz.
> wonder how true that is?


I noticed a *huge* difference between 60Hz and 96Hz, and a barely perceptible one from 96Hz to 120Hz (there was artefacting, but movement was smooth).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> Quick question, if I keep my monitor at 110hz instead of 96hz, will I still get the same benefit? I see many mentioned how videos will scale better or something because 24times4 is 96 and it will be better, someone also said more support for games @ 96hz. but does that mean at 110hz you actually won't get the same benefit ? or does it just mean its a waste in most situations, but even a game that only supports 96hz for example, doesn't mean I won't get 96hz if my panel is at 110, just means I wont get 110, correct?


If your panel is running @110Hz, but a game only supports 96Hz, you'll still get 96Hz- similar to when you run a very demanding game at, let's say, 40 FPS on a 60Hz monitor.

Videos aren't such a big deal. I switched to 90Hz, because some games I play are locked to 60 and I was getting very noticeable tearing. At 90Hz, the tearing was eliminated (or at least reduced to the point I couldn't see it) and videos didn't have any tearing at all.
90Hz was about as smooth as 96Hz, so I stick to that.


----------



## zeppoli

im gonna just put it back to 96, im not seeing much of a difference from 96-110hz, I dont see much change from 96-120hz.

but 60-96hz.. HUUUUGE IMO.

so many linus is right, that first 15 is the key. probably is as the faster the refresh the more our human eyes dont notice as much.


----------



## Jacklim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TweedleDurp*
> 
> Hi guys, first post on your lovely forums. I just wanted to say thank you for your help in researching my monitor. I was close to pulling the trigger on a BenQ, but decided to take another look at the Korean panels (almost half the price).
> 
> I settled on the Crossover 2795 and ordered one from Amazon, sold by BizBuy International. Price was $320, no tax from Korea, and paid 10 extra for expedited shipping. It shipped from Seoul on Thursday and arrived Monday.
> 
> I hooked it up to be sure it was working and was pleased to see that I couldn't find any bad pixels. I removed the stand (a bit of a pain) hung it on my Vesa and started playing with it. It looked great straight out of the box other than the brightness being too high. I overclocked it to 96hz and it runs beautifully. At 110hz I started getting some green static, but I didn't try touching anything other than the refresh rate. Overall I'm very happy and I'll probably try getting it to run clean at 110 tonight.


So someone bought this from bizbuy. I was thinking about buying one from bizbuy. Seems like I should pull the trigger.
Maybe later this month since 11 out of 14 states in my country is flooded. I am donating my savings.


----------



## Phreaker21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Good advice from Phreaker ... +R
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @zeppoli ... NICE! I think you have the 1st confirmed "Golden" 2795 (120Hz+)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How high will it clock? I had one (QNIX) reach 130Hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... As far as setting your desktop/work/browse overclock you may find *THIS* interesting. Phreakers link to the OC guide explains pixel clocks fairly well (it's also linked on the 1st page and my sig) and even though it's from the Qnix (Samsung PLS) thread it's almost word for word applicable to the 2795/LG panel. Also note that many guys have been running flat out @120Hz 24/7 for over 2 years now including the Cat2B, me I'm a bit more conservative (see link above)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 43 pages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... This made me laugh hard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But then again I come from the 2+ year old QNIX thread ... you talk about pages upon pages (almost 2400) of less than interesting info ... you can see how important the OP becomes and good guys like yourself that help moderate the thread ... +R ... keep it up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Checkout the OC links and maybe the Yamakazi Cat2B (LG/IPS panel closer related to the 2795) thread *HERE* for more tips
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep that s##ks ... you must have a matte panel ... I no longer recommend the QX2710 Matte over the 2795 just because of the PWM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT if you know you want a glossy panel your choices/budget are limited ... IF ONLY the 2795 came in a glossy panel I would be buying one right now as a backup and for friends future builds ... a true glossy 2795 would be my go to / must have monitor


Thanks Buddy,
You can tell I wrote that prior to getting my morning coffee.
I haven't seen anyone on here mention they have tweaked their timings, I am keen to see if it makes any real difference with these panels.

I am not going to tweak my timings, I am just too dubious about doing it with a crossfire setup. I run into enough drama's without siring the pot









Hah yea this thread has grown, I plowed through all 36 pages before I pulled the trigger. Nothing wrong with how it has grown, it has all been on topic for the most part. Nothing wrong with a happy supportive community









Would love to see someone buy one of the Ganjidog screens to see if they are also PWM free.

I would also love to see a guide on getting these as picture/colour perfect as possible.
I really want a balance between the best colour and performance, Coming from a high colour AH-IPS dell I don't want to loose this vibrancy.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacklim*
> 
> So someone bought this from bizbuy. I was thinking about buying one from bizbuy. Seems like I should pull the trigger.
> Maybe later this month since 11 out of 14 states in my country is flooded. I am donating my savings.


Kudos to you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phreaker21*
> 
> I haven't seen anyone on here mention they have tweaked their timings, I am keen to see if it makes any real difference with these panels.
> I would also love to see a guide on getting these as picture/colour perfect as possible.
> I really want a balance between the best colour and performance, Coming from a high colour AH-IPS dell I don't want to loose this vibrancy.


I tried tweaking my timings according to this image, but it didn't help at all- I guess I'll stick to "just" 90Hz (first world problems







).

Coming from a Dell U2312HM (and comparing them side to side) I can say that this monitor has colours that are just as good. Out of the box, mine had a slight greenish-yellow tinge. Applying one of the ICC profiles in this thread (page 29- follow this guide) rectifies that.


----------



## RAZZTA01

Hi, un muy setup i run an hdmi cable (4meters) to my actual monitor. I am planning buying this monitor ... But want to ask you if any of you has a setup running such a long distance cable (dvi-d) to achieve this over clock?


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAZZTA01*
> 
> Hi, un muy setup i run an hdmi cable (4meters) to my actual monitor. I am planning buying this monitor ... But want to ask you if any of you has a setup running such a long distance cable (dvi-d) to achieve this over clock?


DVI cables are (mostly, except for very rare exceptions) digital. Which means, that the signal doesn't get degraded unless you're using a very long cable- you shouldn't have any problem whatsoever using a 4-meter cable.


----------



## idemonz

Hi All!

3 years ago i bit the bullet and purchased a Yamakazi Catleap Monitor thanks to the community here. I was lucky enough to get one without any dead pixels nor any noticeable backlight bleed.

Unfortunately this monitor recently just stopped working, where the monitor turns on displays a fuzzy bios and boot up screen and as soon as it should hit the windows logo nothing.

What are my options, would the Crossover 2795QHD be the best replacement monitor for me? or is there something else you guys would recommend taking a look at?


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *idemonz*
> 
> Hi All!
> 
> 3 years ago i bit the bullet and purchased a Yamakazi Catleap Monitor thanks to the community here. I was lucky enough to get one without any dead pixels nor any noticeable backlight bleed.
> 
> Unfortunately this monitor recently just stopped working, where the monitor turns on displays a fuzzy bios and boot up screen and as soon as it should hit the windows logo nothing.
> 
> What are my options, would the Crossover 2795QHD be the best replacement monitor for me? or is there something else you guys would recommend taking a look at?


I went from an 23" acer 1080p 60hz monitor to a topsync referb 27" 1440P Korean monitor, first one had some terrible horizontal line when fast movement was going across the screen, second one was good with one dead pixel, but could not notice it much. The color were so vivid and since it was an IPS glossy everything "popped" , the quality of graphics were amazing. I wanted more though and got this monitor. Going from a glossy to matte finish was different for sure but being able to display true 100FPS on the monitor is so worth it. The quality of the stand and bezel is awesome IMO. I do have one tiny stuck pixel that was fixed with software on a website go figure.


----------



## CoolGuy90

While I wait for a response from the seller, is the 2795QHD the same monitor as the 27QHD?


----------



## tonyeezy

Ordered mine the 30th and got it in today (August 5th) from Dream-Seller. Got the perfect pixel version and cannot find 1 dead pixel on the screen thus far. Backlight bleed is very minimal, I cannot notice it unless on a black screen and even then I'm just being picky. I'll put it this way I've been using an ASUS VH242H and after I checked this monitor with a black screen and noticed a small amount, the ASUS monitor had more and I never noticed it on that monitor for several years haha. The clarity and real estate gained versus 1080p is really incredible I love it! I added a 1440p 96hz option in the NVIDIA control panel and all seems well.

Have you guys made any color or brightness adjustments with the monitor? I just added like 5% contrast and like 8% digital vibrant in the NVIDIA control panel and that's it. Looks fantastic.

The stand is pretty terrible as expected but not the worst, it holds the monitor upright that's all I really care about for now lol.


----------



## tonyeezy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolGuy90*
> 
> While I wait for a response from the seller, is the 2795QHD the same monitor as the 27QHD?


I think the 2795HD is a newer version but I could be wrong I read that somewhere.


----------



## TomcatV

A few quick comments on overclocking and tightened timings ...

As your progressing up the scale to find your max overclock, at some point it will become unstable and "usually" it will present as the green lines/small blocks. Lets say you were stable at 110Hz but got artifacts @120Hz ... sometimes you could stabilize 120Hz with tightened timings effectively lowering your pixel clock, AND reducing your overall above pixel clock number (450 upper recommended p/clock). And if you have a less than average overclocker this same scenario could be applied at lower refresh rates, say 96Hz-100Hz with less dramatic effects.
Another side effect of tightened timings was causing some GPU's (mostly AMD) to not fully downclock (power save) their ram when idling at the desktop. Lawson gets into detail how he fixed his in the OC guide, I never had a problem w/Nvidia GPU's ... Bottom line if your not into pushing the very limits of stability then tightened timings should be avoided, and standard timings work just fine with some exceptions noted above.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolGuy90*
> 
> While I wait for a response from the seller, is the 2795QHD the same monitor as the 27QHD?


If you want to overclock your monitor to 96Hz and above without dropping frames, I'd stay away from any Crossover monitor that isn't the 2795QHD ... the 27QHD is not the same


----------



## deepchunk

On the topic of the 2795QHD being the same as the 27QHD, I just received a 27QHD from green-sum that definitely seems to be the same model as the 2795. Everything is identical, and the model number on the back has the digits 2795 in it. I think when crossover realized the 27QHD could overclock they rebranded it as the 2795QHD and advertised it as a gaming monitor.
Also mine has the face instead of the crossover logo on it, but I prefer it.


----------



## Phreaker21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepchunk*
> 
> On the topic of the 2795QHD being the same as the 27QHD, I just received a 27QHD from green-sum that definitely seems to be the same model as the 2795. Everything is identical, and the model number on the back has the digits 2795 in it. I think when crossover realized the 27QHD could overclock they rebranded it as the 2795QHD and advertised it as a gaming monitor.
> Also mine has the face instead of the crossover logo on it, but I prefer it.


While there are similarities between the 2795 and the 27QHD they are certainly not the same

They do share a common panel I believe?

But they have different controllers and the 2795 is PWM free while the 27QHD does have a PWM

What likely happened here is the seller had no stock of the 27QHD and simply shipped the next model up.
Both green-sum and dream-seller seem like good sellers and likely didn't want to delay shipping your item.

Congrats on the free upgrade


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepchunk*
> 
> On the topic of the 2795QHD being the same as the 27QHD, I just received a 27QHD from green-sum that definitely seems to be the same model as the 2795. Everything is identical, and the model number on the back has the digits 2795 in it. I think when crossover realized the 27QHD could overclock they rebranded it as the 2795QHD and advertised it as a gaming monitor.
> Also mine has the face instead of the crossover logo on it, but I prefer it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phreaker21*
> 
> While there are similarities between the 2795 and the 27QHD they are certainly not the same They do share a common panel I believe? But they have different controllers and the 2795 is PWM free while the 27QHD does use PWM dimming.


The 2795QHD is a refresh of the 27QHD. As Phreaker said, it uses the same panel as the 27QHD, but a different controller resulting in no PWM dimming and OC capability.


----------



## zeppoli

For those with light bleed, put on a really black background, pure black, brightness max.. looking right in the middle you will see light bleed on the corners, take your ENTIRE head and move it to each corner of the monitor, so instead of looking at it in the middle, look at it by the corners, you will probably see no backlight at all.

I really think its just the way matte finish panels look.


----------



## RTK29

I got my monitor about a week ago from dream-seller and it hasn't worked correctly after the first few minutes. You can see my problems in post 386.

I contacted him after I confirmed that I didn't get a bad DVI cable by testing the monitor with a new 24AWG monoprice cable and having the same problem. Sidenote: that is one hefty cable!

Ever since I contacted dream-seller to return they've been making me take pictures of all this stuff like my video card ports, the cable, the cable actually in and attached to the ports like I'm an idiot who doesn't know how to properly attach a cable. Every time they ask me to take another picture involving the monitor I have to set it up again because obviously I'm not using a broken monitor.

They keep saying that they're sending the photos to the manufacturer, but I'm not sure what they even have to do with this transaction. Dream-seller sold me the defective monitor even though they supposedly do a QC test. Their issue with the manufacturer should not become my issue. I just want to exchange for a working monitor

I've been trying to be polite even though it's been nearly 5 days since I started talking with them and I'm having to jump through all these hoops, but it's starting to get frustrating.

At this point I'm pretty sure there's just a loose connection inside the monitor, but I'm not going to open it and have them refuse my return because of that, If they try and make me pay return shipping when they sent me a broken monitor I'm going to be very upset.

I really want this monitor but it's becoming quite a hassle.


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RTK29*
> 
> I got my monitor about a week ago from dream-seller and it hasn't worked correctly after the first few minutes. You can see my problems in post 386.
> 
> I contacted him after I confirmed that I didn't get a bad DVI cable by testing the monitor with a new 24AWG monoprice cable and having the same problem. Sidenote: that is one hefty cable!
> 
> Ever since I contacted dream-seller to return they've been making me take pictures of all this stuff like my video card ports, the cable, the cable actually in and attached to the ports like I'm an idiot who doesn't know how to properly attach a cable. Every time they ask me to take another picture involving the monitor I have to set it up again because obviously I'm not using a broken monitor.
> 
> They keep saying that they're sending the photos to the manufacturer, but I'm not sure what they even have to do with this transaction. Dream-seller sold me the defective monitor even though they supposedly do a QC test. Their issue with the manufacturer should not become my issue. I just want to exchange for a working monitor
> 
> I've been trying to be polite even though it's been nearly 5 days since I started talking with them and I'm having to jump through all these hoops, but it's starting to get frustrating.
> 
> At this point I'm pretty sure there's just a loose connection inside the monitor, but I'm not going to open it and have them refuse my return because of that, If they try and make me pay return shipping when they sent me a broken monitor I'm going to be very upset.
> 
> I really want this monitor but it's becoming quite a hassle.


I have been in your EXACT position with Greensum seller.. they asked me to take a picture of horizontal line going across the screen, I did, they said they were sending the pictures to "their manufacture" they wrote back a few hours later stating "can you take a video of the problem"

I replied with "It's no problem... Actually here is exactly how our conversation went , copying and pasting from my email.

Dear green-sum,

HI there,

I received this monitor today and was initially impressed on the packing as it was well done. Then as I opened the boxes and got to the monitor I heard a noise as if change was rolling around inside of a coffee can. There is something loose inside of the monitor. This is not the major problem though, there is a horizontal line on the top 1/3 of the screen that goes from one side to the other, I tested this with movies,videos and games, as well as the desktop. I tested this on 3 different machines, and 4 different video cards, including my 2 AMD R9 290's(Crossfire) a brand new GTX 970 and another video card. I also happen to have another dual link dvi cable which made no difference. Please advise me on how to either get a refund or another monitor and advise on how to send this one back.

Thank you very much.

Hello,

We apologize for the inconvenience.

Can you send us a picture of the horizontal line that you're seeing on your screen? We'll be forwarding it to the manufacturer to let them know of the issue you are having.

Thank you for your help.

- green-sum

Dear green-sum,

I will send a picture now which shows the horizontal line going from one side all the way to the other, its more of a video separation as you will see it actually separates the video. It's seen in the picture attached but is about 10 times worse with the actual video playing.

Again, this happens on all sources and different video cards.

Hello,

Thank you for the picture that you have provided.

Then can you send us a video as well so that the manufacturer can see the issue more clearly? You can send the video to the email address below:

buy2korea.info gmail com

Please make sure to include you ebay ID on the subject line so that we know who it's from.

Thank you!

At this point, I wasn't going to play the games anymore, I could see what they're trying to do, stall in hopes I give up or cannot do what they are asking, maybe letting them make an excuse as if I'm not helping or something.. I wrote back.

Dear green-sum,

Should I just put a stop on the payment through paypal? I have done more than enough to provide information on what is wrong with the product YOU sold me. If the manufacture wants to see it, they will see it up close and personal when they receive it back. I sent you a picture, please advise what the next step is!!!

We will go ahead and send you a return label for the order. Would you like a refund or an exchange?

And which email should we send the label to?

Thank you very much, and we apologize for the inconvenience.

- green-sum

listen very carefully, you need to be tough with them and explain just like I did, you have gone beyond the scope of helping as a customer, you are no longer going to participate and will promptly put a stop payment and give terrible feedback.


----------



## deepchunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> The 2795QHD is a refresh of the 27QHD. As Phreaker said, it uses the same panel as the 27QHD, but a different controller resulting in no PWM dimming and OC capability.


Do you guys have proof of this? The 27QHD is advertised identically to the 2795QHD with the exception of overclocking (both are PWM-free panels). I keep seeing it repeated in this thread, but my monitor is very clearly labelled as 27QHD on all of the packaging received, yet is clearly identical to the 2795QHD. Perhaps someone can check the model number on their 2795QHD to clear this up? Mine reads MSIP-REM-CSO-2795

Just trying to save people some money, as the 27QHD can be had for considerably cheaper than the 2795.


----------



## RTK29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> listen very carefully, you need to be tough with them and explain just like I did, you have gone beyond the scope of helping as a customer, you are no longer going to participate and will promptly put a stop payment and give terrible feedback.


Thanks for the advice. I decided yesterday that I was going to give them until tonight to respond favorably. It's difficult to communicate with them as we are about 13 hours difference. I stupidly did direct transfer from my bank so I don't think there's any stopping the payment, but I'll probably threaten to escalate it to Ebay if they keep giving me the runaround.


----------



## darkelixa

Been looking at Korean monitors but with all of these bad ones sort of turning me into spending more on a brand i can return in my own country


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RTK29*
> 
> Thanks for the advice. I decided yesterday that I was going to give them until tonight to respond favorably. It's difficult to communicate with them as we are about 13 hours difference. I stupidly did direct transfer from my bank so I don't think there's any stopping the payment, but I'll probably threaten to escalate it to Ebay if they keep giving me the runaround.


Give them more time to just give you another task to do.. Just clearly tell them "I want a refund now/new monitor"

also make them send you a new one the second they see the old one picked up by the shipper.. THEY WILL DO IT!! Greensum did it for me.


----------



## Phreaker21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepchunk*
> 
> Do you guys have proof of this? The 27QHD is advertised identically to the 2795QHD with the exception of overclocking (both are PWM-free panels). I keep seeing it repeated in this thread, but my monitor is very clearly labelled as 27QHD on all of the packaging received, yet is clearly identical to the 2795QHD. Perhaps someone can check the model number on their 2795QHD to clear this up? Mine reads MSIP-REM-CSO-2795
> 
> Just trying to save people some money, as the 27QHD can be had for considerably cheaper than the 2795.


I think you may have answered your own question... your model number is that of a 2795, why it is in a 27QHD box i really dont know.

you can see here that the 27QHD
http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=27QHD

is different to the 2795
http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=2795QHD

the 2795 is PWM free and is rated for 100hz while the 27QHD is not...
Once again, why you got a 2795 instead of a 27QHD, no idea, but they are certainly different products.

Now back to my monitor... Seller, still hasn't sent mine. Been told it would be shipped 3 times now.
Insisted in compensation that I be provided with a 0 dead pixel policy on arrival as I paid for a perfect anyway.
a CS agent got in touch to assure me it was being personally checked prior to being sent.








Monday is when they have now quoted for dispatch, I am going to raise a dispute if it isn't,


----------



## karkee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Been looking at Korean monitors but with all of these bad ones sort of turning me into spending more on a brand i can return in my own country


Hmm are there many problems with these compare to the Qnix QX2710? I am looking for a new IPS that can do atleast 96HZ and because the Acer 144hz has alot of problems and the asus doesnt really work for me either I rather just get another korean one for the time being...


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karkee*
> 
> Hmm are there many problems with these compare to the Qnix QX2710? I am looking for a new IPS that can do atleast 96HZ and because the Acer 144hz has alot of problems and the asus doesnt really work for me either I rather just get another korean one for the time being...


get this one.. I've had this and another kind , this is the best IMO.


----------



## karkee

Yea since the acer is trouble anyway and the asus only freesync and below 144hz huge inputlag I might aswell get one of these for now...

Going to get http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/331605501322?hash=item4d353a658a

Anyone that can recommend a good monitor arm for it? I have seen the ergotron mx but I kinda dislike it looks so bulky :s


----------



## deepchunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phreaker21*
> 
> I think you may have answered your own question... your model number is that of a 2795, why it is in a 27QHD box i really dont know.
> 
> you can see here that the 27QHD
> http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=27QHD
> 
> is different to the 2795
> http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=2795QHD
> 
> the 2795 is PWM free and is rated for 100hz while the 27QHD is not...
> Once again, why you got a 2795 instead of a 27QHD, no idea, but they are certainly different products.
> 
> Now back to my monitor... Seller, still hasn't sent mine. Been told it would be shipped 3 times now.
> Insisted in compensation that I be provided with a 0 dead pixel policy on arrival as I paid for a perfect anyway.
> a CS agent got in touch to assure me it was being personally checked prior to being sent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Monday is when they have now quoted for dispatch, I am going to raise a dispute if it isn't,


There are multiple 27QHD's. The one you linked is certainly a different product (IPS panel, glossy screen,etc). I still believe the AHIPS 27QHD (http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=27QHD-AHIPS) is the same as the 2795 however. The specs on the bottom are identical to the 2795 with the exception of overclocking claims and most of the product pictures are shared. I'm not trying to keep arguing about this, and I hope you get you're monitor soon because these things are amazing







.


----------



## Phreaker21

still fairly sure they are the same except for those two features, which certainly are worth the extra money in my book









Hey guys guess what, hell has frozen over! my monitor has shipped!!!!


----------



## Jacklim

Hi guys.








I was gonna buy the crossover2795 from amazon that I bookmarked.
When ever I try to reach the link,the error 404 keeps showing up.
So I contacted the seller BizBuy International about the monitor.
Amazon blocked all the qnix and crossover monitors for sale.
Seems to be that they are working on the issue.








They said they seem to be working on it.
And yes why didn't I choose ebay?
I can't buy from ebay since I live in a sanctioned country.

_http://i.imgur.com/PCR9ZnU.png_


----------



## deepchunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacklim*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was gonna buy the crossover2795 from amazon that I bookmarked.
> When ever I try to reach the link,the error 404 keeps showing up.
> So I contacted the seller BizBuy International about the monitor.
> Amazon blocked all the qnix and crossover monitors for sale.
> Seems to be that they are working on the issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They said they seem to be working on it.
> And yes why didn't I choose ebay?
> I can't buy from ebay since I live in a sanctioned country.
> 
> _http://i.imgur.com/PCR9ZnU.png_


Perhaps you can arrange to just paypal the seller and have them send it? They are usually very communicative, especially in situations where you're giving them money


----------



## Jacklim

Sadly, paypal doesn't support my country's debit card.


----------



## arsenicc

Does anyone know how to remove the stem from the monitor where the stand screws into? I vesa mounted the monitor, but I really dislike this lil piece of plastic sticking out of the bottom.


----------



## arsenicc

Oh also, bought this from dreamseller on ebay pixel perfect version, and it is indeed pixel perfect and has no black light bleed. Running it at 96hz. I'm coming from a 24inch apple cinema display and I'm never looking back. This is a kick ass monitor!


----------



## Phreaker21

You have to remove the case unfortunately


----------



## deepchunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arsenicc*
> 
> Does anyone know how to remove the stem from the monitor where the stand screws into? I vesa mounted the monitor, but I really dislike this lil piece of plastic sticking out of the bottom.







Just did it the other night. Not very hard but you have to use quite a bit of force to pop off the bezel.


----------



## arsenicc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepchunk*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just did it the other night. Not very hard but you have to use quite a bit of force to pop off the bezel.


This right here, was winning information. Got the stem off in 5 minutes after watching the vid. Thanks so much. Also, you're very right about the bezel being hard to pop off... at least it's harder than the guy in the video makes it seem.


----------



## deepchunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacklim*
> 
> Sadly, paypal doesn't support my country's debit card.


Newegg?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6PB35M2122&cm_re=crossover_monitor-_-9SIA6PB35M2122-_-Product

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY37G9139


----------



## Jacklim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepchunk*
> 
> Newegg?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6PB35M2122&cm_re=crossover_monitor-_-9SIA6PB35M2122-_-Product
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY37G9139


They don't ship international XD
My Best bet is the amazon seller Bizbuy international ships to my country.
Oh,I live in Burma ._.


----------



## Mikey22

Looks like Green Sum now is selling this monitor.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-AH-IPS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-Mattte-/400974478465?nav=SEARCH

Which seller would you guys recommend between GreenSum and DreamSeller?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mikey22*
> 
> Looks like Green Sum now is selling this monitor.
> 
> http://m.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-AH-IPS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-Mattte-/400974478465?nav=SEARCH
> 
> Which seller would you guys recommend between GreenSum and DreamSeller?


Nice! And it is the most affordable one and the most informative/clear listing! .... From years of dealing with Korean panel sellers I, and I think most of the experienced guys in the QNIX thread would rate them ....

Green-sum > excellentcastle > dream-seller

If you know how to negotiate if you have a problem then dream-seller is fine ... but green-sum seems to be more matter of fact. Also note that Green-sum was the exclusive dealer for the infamous Cat2B that started the whole Korean overclocked panel crazzz over 2 years ago now


----------



## geoffropuff

I have a MSI 660 TI 2GB (192bit) graphics card. Would I have trouble running this monitor for watching videos and whatnot? I'm guessing I'd have problems running games on high settings, but hoping that I could at least get medium settings out of it until I can afford to get a new card. I'd probably replace one of my Dell U2312HMs with the Crossover 2795 in my dual monitor setup. Just wondering if anyone else has tried this type of setup with an older card and not the newest 980TI that most seem to have.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoffropuff*
> 
> I have a MSI 660 TI 2GB (192bit) graphics card. Would I have trouble running this monitor for watching videos and whatnot? I'm guessing I'd have problems running games on high settings, but hoping that I could at least get medium settings out of it until I can afford to get a new card. I'd probably replace one of my Dell U2312HMs with the Crossover 2795 in my dual monitor setup. Just wondering if anyone else has tried this type of setup with an older card and not the newest 980TI that most seem to have.


I was in a very, very similar situation (GTX 660, single U2312HM). I can still run most of the games I play at more than satisfactory settings (granted, Mirror's Edge and Just Cause 2 aren't very demanding).

If you're looking for a new card, shoot me a PM with your usage, games, settings etc. I'd be happy to help you out


----------



## Mikey22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Nice! And it is the most affordable one and the most informative/clear listing! .... From years of dealing with Korean panel sellers I, and I think most of the experienced guys in the QNIX thread would rate them ....
> 
> Green-sum > excellentcastle > dream-seller
> 
> If you know how to negotiate if you have a problem then dream-seller is fine ... but green-sum seems to be more matter of fact. Also note that Green-sum was the exclusive dealer for the infamous Cat2B that started the whole Korean overclocked panel crazzz over 2 years ago now


I Guess I'll be the first to buy this monitor from GreenSum. I'll do an update once it arrives.
I purchased the Non-Pixel Perfect. Wish me luck!


----------



## geoffropuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> I was in a very, very similar situation (GTX 660, single U2312HM). I can still run most of the games I play at more than satisfactory settings (granted, Mirror's Edge and Just Cause 2 aren't very demanding).
> 
> If you're looking for a new card, shoot me a PM with your usage, games, settings etc. I'd be happy to help you out


My main game right now is Heroes of the Storm, and I anticipate playing Legacy of the Void, Overwatch (yeah, I'm a Blizzard fan), and maybe burn through some of my Steam backlog like Bioshock Infinite, etc. I have a feeling that those games aren't going to be as tough on the card as like a Crysis 3 or something, but will still push the 660TI harder than it's capable.

On another note, I shouldn't have any problems running my Ultrasharp at 1080p next to the Crossover at 1440p, right? I've only gone with identical dual monitors in the past.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoffropuff*
> 
> My main game right now is Heroes of the Storm, and I anticipate playing Legacy of the Void, Overwatch (yeah, I'm a Blizzard fan), and maybe burn through some of my Steam backlog like Bioshock Infinite, etc. I have a feeling that those games aren't going to be as tough on the card as like a Crysis 3 or something, but will still push the 660TI harder than it's capable.
> 
> On another note, I shouldn't have any problems running my Ultrasharp at 1080p next to the Crossover at 1440p, right? I've only gone with identical dual monitors in the past.


Honestly, 1440p is a lot less taxing then some might think. Yes, it's more difficult to run than 1080p, but you don't need a Titan X to run things on Ultra. I haven't played any of the games you mentioned besides Bioshock Infinite (which I could run at medium-high settings with low AA and still get decent FPS), so you could test them yourself. You just have to enable DSR factor 1.78 in the Nvidia Control Panel, and you can set your monitor's resolution to 1440p. Run your games and see how well your GPU fares.

And yes, it's possible to run two monitors of varying size and resolution next to each other.

Happy testing


----------



## tonyeezy

Can anyone direct me or inform me on how to make sure I am getting 96hz in game for games (CSGO, BF4, Portal, etc)? Been running 96hz on desktop since I got the thing and it is incredibly smooth!


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonyeezy*
> 
> Can anyone direct me or inform me on how to make sure I am getting 96hz in game for games (CSGO, BF4, Portal, etc)? Been running 96hz on desktop since I got the thing and it is incredibly smooth!


Check the games' video settings, and make sure that the resolution is 2560x1440 @96Hz. Some games are limited to 60Hz, and others will simply run at 96Hz without tweaking anything. You'll have to do some experimentation, I'm afraid.


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Check the games' video settings, and make sure that the resolution is 2560x1440 @96Hz. Some games are limited to 60Hz, and others will simply run at 96Hz without tweaking anything. You'll have to do some experimentation, I'm afraid.


Yep, not all games show the hz though, for example BF4 you can set the hz for that resolution, Dying light doesnt have any information regarding hz, but it has to be running at 96hz.


----------



## tonyeezy

Yeah like in CSGO or Portal, I set Vsync to on and was locked at 60hz. No idea how to really force it go 96hz and make sure that I am running it. The monitor has no menu where as my ASUS monitor has one that would display the resolution and hz.


----------



## Phreaker21

Hell froze over and it arrived!
Thing got lost when the package got passed from DHL to TOLL

so here is the thing...
Box looks like it has been dropped a few times, and the box was warped. Now I should have rejected it then and there. But man it was a saga getting this thing.

So the good news! no dead pixels!








Bad news? Well the panel is bent and has come away from the case.
It isn't dark here yet, so I dont know how bad the light bleed is because of this.
Not sure if i should attempt to fix this or not? certainly a risky maneuver to straighten this thing.

But yea. Korea > Singapore > Sydney > Brisbane > Mackay
+ Two freight carriers == damaged box.
This box was bare too, no padding or anything









Now to crank this bad boy to 96hz.


----------



## Phreaker21

I can't get any refresh rate other than 60hz to appear in windows 10
I have set my custom and bumped it to the top.
run reset and restarted and it just isn't an option.

any suggestion for an ATI 280x?


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phreaker21*
> 
> Hell froze over and it arrived!
> Thing got lost when the package got passed from DHL to TOLL
> 
> so here is the thing...
> Box looks like it has been dropped a few times, and the box was warped. Now I should have rejected it then and there. But man it was a saga getting this thing.
> 
> So the good news! no dead pixels!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad news? Well the panel is bent and has come away from the case.
> It isn't dark here yet, so I dont know how bad the light bleed is because of this.
> Not sure if i should attempt to fix this or not? certainly a risky maneuver to straighten this thing.
> 
> But yea. Korea > Singapore > Sydney > Brisbane > Mackay
> + Two freight carriers == damaged box.
> This box was bare too, no padding or anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crank this bad boy to 96hz.


holy crap!! you just got it now ?? and you saved a whole 10 bucks for like a months worth of delay, lol.

post pictures, let us see the damage .


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phreaker21*
> 
> I can't get any refresh rate other than 60hz to appear in windows 10
> I have set my custom and bumped it to the top.
> run reset and restarted and it just isn't an option.
> 
> any suggestion for an ATI 280x?


Check with Windows' settings-

1) Right clock the desktop, and click "Display settings".
2) Click "Advanced display settings".
3) Click "Display adapter properties".
4) Click "Monitor". Make sure that the "Hide modes that this monitor cannot display" checkbox is *un*checked.


----------



## Phreaker21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> holy crap!! you just got it now ?? and you saved a whole 10 bucks for like a months worth of delay, lol.
> 
> post pictures, let us see the damage .


I know right!....
Yea will do tonight.
there is a little light bleed in the corners but i might loosen the side screws and see if that helps, it really isn't that bad


----------



## Phreaker21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Check with Windows' settings-
> 
> 1) Right clock the desktop, and click "Display settings".
> 2) Click "Advanced display settings".
> 3) Click "Display adapter properties".
> 4) Click "Monitor". Make sure that the "Hide modes that this monitor cannot display" checkbox is *un*checked.


Already done, I just cant get the custom resolutions to show up in either catalyst or under advanced properties in windows.
maybe i am using the tool wrong? but the custom res are in the tool when I reopen, I have don the restart and a reboot.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phreaker21*
> 
> Already done, I just cant get the custom resolutions to show up in either catalyst or under advanced properties in windows.
> maybe i am using the tool wrong? but the custom res are in the tool when I reopen, I have don the restart and a reboot.


Sorry, but I can't be of any further help as I have a Geforce card. I'm upgrading soon, though- either an R9 390 or a GTX 980 Ti. If I will upgrade to the 390, rest assured that I will find a way to OC the monitor.

In the meantime, follow these instructions (taken from here):

1: Overclocking using AMD cards is a simple process firstly you need to download Toastyx AMD/ATI Pixel Clock Patcher which will patch your AMD drivers!....You can down load this from HERE Once downloaded you need to run it to patch your drivers... Now move to step 2...

2: Once the drivers are patched you can now create your custom resolutions!...Open CRU and uncheck the include extension block in CRU and create your custom resolutions!

All credit for the above instructions goes to lawson67.


----------



## Phreaker21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Sorry, but I can't be of any further help as I have a Geforce card. I'm upgrading soon, though- either an R9 290 or a GTX 980 Ti. If I will upgrade to the 290, rest assured that I will find a way to OC the monitor.
> 
> In the meantime, follow these instructions (taken from here):
> 
> 1: Overclocking using AMD cards is a simple process firstly you need to download Toastyx AMD/ATI Pixel Clock Patcher which will patch your AMD drivers!....You can down load this from HERE Once downloaded you need to run it to patch your drivers... Now move to step 2...
> 
> 2: Once the drivers are patched you can now create your custom resolutions!...Open CRU and uncheck the include extension block in CRU and create your custom resolutions!
> 
> All credit for the above instructions goes to lawson67.


I was using the CRU, do I need to use the clock patcher first in order to use the CRU?


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phreaker21*
> 
> I was using the CRU, do I need to use the clock patcher first in order to use the CRU?


Apparently so. I highly recommend that you read all of the instructions fully, as Lawson also provides tightened timings that may help you reach higher clocks.


----------



## Phreaker21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Apparently so. I highly recommend that you read all of the instructions fully, as Lawson also provides tightened timings that may help you reach higher clocks.


Yea, I certainly did, it just seemed to me that you only needed to tweak your timings if you were looking to push the limits of the monitor.
From what I had read default timings are OK all the way up to 110hz.

As I run a crossfire setup, I really wanted to avoid tweaking any timings as it is known to cause issues with crossfire, and crossfire is fairly touchy at the best of times.

I will give the patcher a go and report back.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phreaker21*
> 
> Yea, I certainly did, it just seemed to me that you only needed to tweak your timings if you were looking to push the limits of the monitor.
> From what I had read default timings are OK all the way up to 110hz.
> 
> As I run a crossfire setup, I really wanted to avoid tweaking any timings as it is know to cause issues, and crossfire is fairly touchy at the of times.
> 
> I will give the patcher a go and report back.


Great, I'll be looking forward to it.


----------



## NullPointer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NullPointer*
> 
> Thanks, I'm asking because others here have apparently ordered the 2795QHD and said that it is identified as 271HD which is leading me to believe it may be the same model. Also, it happens to be on sale right now from greensum which is a highly regarded seller over in the qnix thread so I decided to pull the trigger.
> 
> Anyways, for anyone else that is interested, here's the link to the sale:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-27QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-LG-IPS-2560X1440-QHD-Monitor-Matte-/141115538942?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20db243dfe
> 
> If anyone else has any info/thoughts/guesses, I'd love to hear it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> After reading up a bit, I think I came to a conclusion:
> 
> Recently (a few months ago) a revised version of the Crossover 27QW and Crossover 2735AMG was released- the Crossover 27QW Sakwa. The Sakwa, according to NCX, has proper brightness controls and no PWM dimming.
> This leads me to believe that the Crossover 2795QHD is a revised model of the 27QHD, with possibly better colour presets, more stable overclocking etc.


Alright guys, I'm quoting myself because its been a while since I posted here. I never posted an update because since I was building my first rig I had to wait till i got my 980ti to test the monitor with. Anyways, FINALLY finished my build and let me tell you, this monitor is a beast!! Its the one I linked to in my quote. I managed to overclock it to 110hz stable. I attempted 120hz but i got minor flickering and I'm tempted to try it again with some custom settings, but that can wait.

There was another user that got the same monitor I did and he also managed to achieve the same results but he never posted in this forum.

I also did the low iso camera test to make sure no frames were being skipped and all is well!!

Here is the album:









Considering I took a gamble with the price, I think it paid off!


----------



## s0lkim

I just wanted to say thank you to everyone that has placed valuable input and information on purchasing this monitor! I bit the bullet after researching it for the last week and grabbed it off bigclothcraft. Hopefully have it sometime next week as I live in West Australia and will let everyone know what it is like. Thanks to all!!!


----------



## Phreaker21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Great, I'll be looking forward to it.


Great success!
looks like you do need to run the unlocker.
I followed the suggestion and installed the second crossfire bridge, my understanding is there was not bus performance difference between one and two bridges, but better to be safe than sorry.
I might test with one bridge though, as I have a spare 280x laying around and am tempted to go for a tri-fire setup









As with 99% 110hz is my max, 120hz displayed standard fuzzy artifacts...

I will run 110hz for now, but may scale back to 96hz, I must admit I notice little difference between the two, but things do appear to render a little sharper at 110hz.

Now, the standard colour pallet is pretty damn good, but I like mine a little cooler, are those profiles back at page 29 a little cooler or warmer?

2015-08-1315.55.44.jpg 2162k .jpg file


Here you can see the panel warp... not the worst, I can probably live with iy.

2015-08-1316.08.05.jpg 2087k .jpg file


2015-08-1316.07.30.jpg 3308k .jpg file


----------



## Phreaker21

Uh-Oh...
Just tried a game with Crossfire, artifacts with both 110 and 96hz...
This is what I was afraid of, not sure how to fix this one.

*EDIT*
Ok so I did some playing, I needed to tweak my timings to get them stable while running crossfire.

so fellow crossfire users this is what i needed to get 110hz and 96hz stable

110hz 2560x1440 @ 443.12mhz
96hz 2560x1440 @ 393.51mhz

The artifacts I was experiencing were that same as those I was getting at 120hz, so it is possible I can squeeze 120hz out of this bad boy, Running crossfire will make this a bit of a mission I think, but I will report back









*EDIT*
Turns out that 110hz is still not stable while running crossfire.

*EDIT*
Turns out 110hz and 96hz are stable, what is happening is the game is loading the highest hz profile available, that being the 120hz profile.
Something to keep in mind.
I will leave the above edits, so you can see this issues encountered incase you run into them.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phreaker21*
> 
> Uh-Oh...
> Just tried a game with Crossfire, artifacts with both 110 and 96hz...
> This is what I was afraid of, not sure how to fix this one.
> 
> *EDIT*
> Ok so I did some playing, I needed to tweak my timings to get them stable while running crossfire.
> 
> so fellow crossfire users this is what i needed to get 110hz and 96hz stable
> 
> 110hz 2560x1440 @ 443.12mhz
> 96hz 2560x1440 @ 393.51mhz
> 
> The artifacts I was experiencing were that same as those I was getting at 120hz, so it is possible I can squeeze 120hz out of this bad boy, Running crossfire will make this a bit of a mission I think, but I will report back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Turns out that 110hz is still not stable while running crossfire.
> 
> *EDIT*
> Turns out 110hz and 96hz are stable, what is happening is the game is loading the highest hz profile available, that being the 120hz profile.
> Something to keep in mind.
> I will leave the above edits, so you can see this issues encountered incase you run into them.


Kudos, and +R. I'd delete the 120Hz profile, so as not to cause issues.s


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NullPointer*
> 
> Alright guys, I'm quoting myself because its been a while since I posted here. I never posted an update because since I was building my first rig I had to wait till i got my 980ti to test the monitor with. Anyways, FINALLY finished my build and let me tell you, this monitor is a beast!! Its the one I linked to in my quote. I managed to overclock it to 110hz stable. I attempted 120hz but i got minor flickering and I'm tempted to try it again with some custom settings, but that can wait.
> 
> There was another user that got the same monitor I did and he also managed to achieve the same results but he never posted in this forum.
> 
> I also did the low iso camera test to make sure no frames were being skipped and all is well!!
> 
> Here is the album:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Considering I took a gamble with the price, I think it paid off!


You need to open your shutter speed longer, that is not even close to long enough, it should look like this


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NullPointer*
> 
> Alright guys, I'm quoting myself because its been a while since I posted here. I never posted an update because since I was building my first rig I had to wait till i got my 980ti to test the monitor with. Anyways, FINALLY finished my build and let me tell you, this monitor is a beast!! Its the one I linked to in my quote. I managed to overclock it to 110hz stable. I attempted 120hz but i got minor flickering and I'm tempted to try it again with some custom settings, but that can wait.
> 
> There was another user that got the same monitor I did and he also managed to achieve the same results but he never posted in this forum.
> 
> I also did the low iso camera test to make sure no frames were being skipped and all is well!!
> 
> Here is the album:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Considering I took a gamble with the price, I think it paid off!


NICE! You proved me wrong by taking the gamble ... +R








I had nightmare flashbacks to the days of sorting out all the Yamakazi Catleap models and none of them overclocked except the Cat2B









PS ... your exposure is fine, nice documentation









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phreaker21*
> 
> Great success!
> looks like you do need to run the unlocker.
> I followed the suggestion and installed the second crossfire bridge, my understanding is there was not bus performance difference between one and two bridges, but better to be safe than sorry.
> I might test with one bridge though, as I have a spare 280x laying around and am tempted to go for a tri-fire setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As with 99% 110hz is my max, 120hz displayed standard fuzzy artifacts...
> 
> I will run 110hz for now, but may scale back to 96hz, I must admit I notice little difference between the two, but things do appear to render a little sharper at 110hz.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Now, the standard colour pallet is pretty damn good, but I like mine a little cooler, are those profiles back at page 29 a little cooler or warmer?
> 
> 2015-08-1315.55.44.jpg 2162k .jpg file
> 
> 
> Here you can see the panel warp... not the worst, I can probably live with iy.
> 
> 2015-08-1316.08.05.jpg 2087k .jpg file
> 
> 
> 2015-08-1316.07.30.jpg 3308k .jpg file


Nice! Cudos to NadavCE (+R) he steered you exactly to the info you needed


----------



## geoffropuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Honestly, 1440p is a lot less taxing then some might think. Yes, it's more difficult to run than 1080p, but you don't need a Titan X to run things on Ultra. I haven't played any of the games you mentioned besides Bioshock Infinite (which I could run at medium-high settings with low AA and still get decent FPS), so you could test them yourself. You just have to enable DSR factor 1.78 in the Nvidia Control Panel, and you can set your monitor's resolution to 1440p. Run your games and see how well your GPU fares.
> 
> And yes, it's possible to run two monitors of varying size and resolution next to each other.
> 
> Happy testing


So I ended up hopping on /r/hardwareswap and got a GTX 970. Now just gotta figure out if I should pay the extra $20 for a perfect pixel Crossover.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoffropuff*
> 
> So I ended up hopping on /r/hardwareswap and got a GTX 970. Now just gotta figure out if I should pay the extra $20 for a perfect pixel Crossover.


Alright, here we go again. Feel free to copy-paste this answer and use it wherever you like. If I'm wrong, feel free to correct me.

Most of the time, pixel-perfect versions of monitors are identical to the normal versions. The extra price you pay is often enough to cover return shipping, in the case of a dead pixel. So what happens is:

Seller takes two monitors from the same batch. Labels one as "normal" and prices it @300$, and the other monitor as "perfect" and prices it @320$. The chance of getting a dead pixel is quite low, so if you buy the "perfect" version the seller makes an easy 20$. On the off chance that you do have a dead pixel, those 20$ are usually enough to pay for return shipping.

So, IMO those 20$ are wasted. Get a nice VESA mount for the monitor instead. FWIW, I ordered a normal version and got a panel with no backlight bleed and no dead pixels.


----------



## geoffropuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Alright, here we go again. Feel free to copy-paste this answer and use it wherever you like. If I'm wrong, feel free to correct me.
> 
> Most of the time, pixel-perfect versions of monitors are identical to the normal versions. The extra price you pay is often enough to cover return shipping, in the case of a dead pixel. So what happens is:
> 
> Seller takes two monitors from the same batch. Labels one as "normal" and prices it @300$, and the other monitor as "perfect" and prices it @320$. The chance of getting a dead pixel is quite low, so if you buy the "perfect" version the seller makes an easy 20$. On the off chance that you do have a dead pixel, those 20$ are usually enough to pay for return shipping.
> 
> So, IMO those 20$ are wasted. Get a nice VESA mount for the monitor instead. FWIW, I ordered a normal version and got a panel with no backlight bleed and no dead pixels.


I had read that explanation before but it seemed to apply more when the difference was more because $20 doesn't seem like it would cover shipping back to Korea. I figure the monitors are from the same batch, but the perfect pixel designation offers more options or better customer service if the monitor is not perfect. Am I completely misguided? Any others with experiences of needing returns?


----------



## majikfx

Thought I'd revisit this thread since many people have bought it now. So in my CCCP it says 27QHD but I ordered this one which is labelled on ebay as the 2795QHD. So are people saying that these two are different models? Because when I bought it there wasn't much discussion on this page (2 pages on this thread). SO can anyone enlighten me? Is there really that much of a difference between the two? and if so, should I contact for replacement since it is the wrong product?

*edit*
I did the test from the PWM article on TFTCentral http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/pulse_width_modulation.htm and these are what my "27QHD" has given me. First picture is at 1/2 shutter speed and the second picture is 1/4 all @ 96Hz



I guess this monitor isn't PWM free after all and there is a clear difference between 27QHD and 2795QHD. Not sure if they'll accept a return now since it's been a few months since I've bought it. Or have I read the article wrong?


----------



## xEnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majikfx*
> 
> Thought I'd revisit this thread since many people have bought it now. So in my CCCP it says 27QHD but I ordered this one which is labelled on ebay as the 2795QHD. So are people saying that these two are different models? Because when I bought it there wasn't much discussion on this page (2 pages on this thread). SO can anyone enlighten me? Is there really that much of a difference between the two? and if so, should I contact for replacement since it is the wrong product?
> 
> *edit*
> I did the test from the PWM article on TFTCentral http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/pulse_width_modulation.htm and these are what my "27QHD" has given me. First picture is at 1/2 shutter speed and the second picture is 1/4 all @ 96Hz
> 
> 
> 
> I guess this monitor isn't PWM free after all and there is a clear difference between 27QHD and 2795QHD. Not sure if they'll accept a return now since it's been a few months since I've bought it. Or have I read the article wrong?


strange that you say that. i just purchased a brand new one and it arrived today. i ordered a 2795QHD but in CRU it says 27QHD, are we being ripped off?

also guys, newbie here never overclocked a monitor. i patched the drivers (AMD) and opened CRU, flicked the refresh rate up to 110hz (446 pixel clock) and i think its worked, is that all there is too it? if i flick it to 120, how do i know if its not worked or not stable? thanks


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majikfx*
> 
> Thought I'd revisit this thread since many people have bought it now. So in my CCCP it says 27QHD but I ordered this one which is labelled on ebay as the 2795QHD. So are people saying that these two are different models? Because when I bought it there wasn't much discussion on this page (2 pages on this thread). SO can anyone enlighten me? Is there really that much of a difference between the two? and if so, should I contact for replacement since it is the wrong product?
> 
> *edit*
> I did the test from the PWM article on TFTCentral http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/pulse_width_modulation.htm and these are what my "27QHD" has given me. First picture is at 1/2 shutter speed and the second picture is 1/4 all @ 96Hz
> 
> 
> 
> I guess this monitor isn't PWM free after all and there is a clear difference between 27QHD and 2795QHD. Not sure if they'll accept a return now since it's been a few months since I've bought it. Or have I read the article wrong?


This is quite worrying. Maybe the initial batch of 2795s are PWM free, and the others aren't? A similar thing happened with the QNIX monitors IIRC.
Could you send a photo of the model plate on the back of your monitor?


----------



## norse-legend

Damn this is worrying. Especially since my one just shipped. A week between payment and shipping.... and dreamseller said it would only take 5 days to get to me


----------



## majikfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> This is quite worrying. Maybe the initial batch of 2795s are PWM free, and the others aren't? A similar thing happened with the QNIX monitors IIRC.
> Could you send a photo of the model plate on the back of your monitor?


I think I could possibly be the "initial batch" because I bought this pretty much when this thread was made and there were no user reviews around even when I googled except for this thread. I'm not entirely sure though but here you go with the picture.


----------



## deepchunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majikfx*
> 
> Thought I'd revisit this thread since many people have bought it now. So in my CCCP it says 27QHD but I ordered this one which is labelled on ebay as the 2795QHD. So are people saying that these two are different models? Because when I bought it there wasn't much discussion on this page (2 pages on this thread). SO can anyone enlighten me? Is there really that much of a difference between the two? and if so, should I contact for replacement since it is the wrong product?
> 
> *edit*
> I did the test from the PWM article on TFTCentral http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/pulse_width_modulation.htm and these are what my "27QHD" has given me. First picture is at 1/2 shutter speed and the second picture is 1/4 all @ 96Hz
> 
> 
> 
> I guess this monitor isn't PWM free after all and there is a clear difference between 27QHD and 2795QHD. Not sure if they'll accept a return now since it's been a few months since I've bought it. Or have I read the article wrong?


Starting to see some serious support for the idea that the 2795QHD is a rebranded 27QHD. All 2795's show up as 27QHD. 
Your backplate shares what I believe to be the model number with my 27QHD.


----------



## NadavCE

Sadly, the conclusion that I draw from these proceedings is that the only difference between the 2795QHD and the 27QHD is the OC capability.

Luckily, I do not seem to be affected by the PWM dimming that this monitor uses. It is purely individual, however, and I still feel that this monitor was worth the purchase.


----------



## geoffropuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Sadly, the conclusion that I draw from these proceedings is that the only difference between the 2795QHD and the 27QHD is the OC capability.
> 
> Luckily, I do not seem to be affected by the PWM dimming that this monitor uses. It is purely individual, however, and I still feel that this monitor was worth the purchase.


i just read in the

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/3gwkhu/monitor_wasabi_mango_qhd277_universal_2560x1440/cu2nfkw
 subreddit about the Wasabi Mango that the model number for the 27QHD is MSIP-REM-CSO-2795, which is confirmed from the pic above. looking at the 2795QHD pic above, it also shares that model number. i guess i'll save myself some cash and grab the 27QHD.


----------



## deepchunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Sadly, the conclusion that I draw from these proceedings is that the only difference between the 2795QHD and the 27QHD is the OC capability.
> 
> Luckily, I do not seem to be affected by the PWM dimming that this monitor uses. It is purely individual, however, and I still feel that this monitor was worth the purchase.


But the 27QHD OC's to the same degree


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepchunk*
> 
> But the 27QHD OC's to the same degree


No it doesnt. Bear in mind that there are very few overclockable korean monitors, Qnix 2710 (sngl input), Catleap 2b, MOTV M2700 and 2795QHD. Thats it (of course not counting silly displays OCs that skip frames). The 27QHD has been around for a while. NO ONE has reported it to OC. Where did you come up with the unsubstantiated idea that it does... let alone to the 'same degree' ?


----------



## deepchunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> No it doesnt. Bear in mind that there are very few overclockable korean monitors, Qnix 2710 (sngl input), Catleap 2b, MOTV M2700 and 2795QHD. Thats it (of course not counting silly displays OCs that skip frames). The 27QHD has been around for a while. NO ONE has reported it to OC. Where did you come up with the unsubstantiated idea that it does... let alone to the 'same degree' ?


The 27QHD has had 3 iterations, older ones didn't OC. This gets repeated leading to confusion, but the newest AH IPS version does OC.

Where did I come up with the idea?








I *own one* OCed to 96 Hz.
As for other evidence:
Post 494 in this thread shows another user with his Oced.

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/3am18a/meta_when_is_the_best_time_to_buy_monitors/csdutr0


----------



## NullPointer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> No it doesnt. Bear in mind that there are very few overclockable korean monitors, Qnix 2710 (sngl input), Catleap 2b, MOTV M2700 and 2795QHD. Thats it (of course not counting silly displays OCs that skip frames). The 27QHD has been around for a while. NO ONE has reported it to OC. Where did you come up with the unsubstantiated idea that it does... let alone to the 'same degree' ?


How doesn't it? I just got mine and it overclocked to a stable 110hz, my post with results is in the previous page. If you don't own both how can you know more about its overclockability than an actual owner? I'm sitting at 110 stable with no frames being skipped.


----------



## NullPointer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Sadly, the conclusion that I draw from these proceedings is that the only difference between the 2795QHD and the 27QHD is the OC capability.
> 
> Luckily, I do not seem to be affected by the PWM dimming that this monitor uses. It is purely individual, however, and I still feel that this monitor was worth the purchase.


How did you reach that conclusion? My 27QHD overclocks to 110 stable with no frame skipping.


----------



## geoffropuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepchunk*
> 
> The 27QHD has had 3 iterations, older ones didn't OC. This gets repeated leading to confusion, but the newest AH IPS version does OC.
> 
> Where did I come up with the idea?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I *own one* OCed to 96 Hz.
> As for other evidence:
> Post 494 in this thread shows another user with his Oced.
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/3am18a/meta_when_is_the_best_time_to_buy_monitors/csdutr0%5B/URL
> 
> I want to jump in but also want to make sure I'm getting an overclockable version.


----------



## deepchunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoffropuff*
> 
> Is this the version that you have: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-27QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-LG-IPS-2560X1440-QHD-Monitor-Matte-/141115538942?hash=item20db243dfe
> 
> I want to jump in but also want to make sure I'm getting an overclockable version.


Yup that exact one from green-sum


----------



## geoffropuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepchunk*
> 
> Yup that exact one from green-sum


Thanks!


----------



## NullPointer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoffropuff*
> 
> Is this the version that you have: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-27QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-LG-IPS-2560X1440-QHD-Monitor-Matte-/141115538942?hash=item20db243dfe
> 
> I want to jump in but also want to make sure I'm getting an overclockable version.


Yea that looks to be the right one. I bought mine from green sum, I included the link in my previous post on the last page, where I posted my results. It's in the quote. Compare the monitors just to make sure


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NullPointer*
> 
> How did you reach that conclusion? My 27QHD overclocks to 110 stable with no frame skipping.


I stand corrected. Apparently, there were multiple revisions of the 27QHD- some could OC and others couldn't. Although at this point I'm unsure if this is true.


----------



## geoffropuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NullPointer*
> 
> Yea that looks to be the right one. I bought mine from green sum, I included the link in my previous post on the last page, where I posted my results. It's in the quote. Compare the monitors just to make sure


Yup, still has that "save to your watch list" banner across the top. Woot! Ordering one at lunchtime.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> I stand corrected. Apparently, there were multiple revisions of the 27QHD- some could OC and others couldn't. Although at this pint I'm unsure if this is true.


Bah ... your OK, but looks like the 2795 is headed down the same road as the QNIX!









Looks like they will all overclock BUT It will become a "lottery" for the new guys, weather they receive a PWM Free panel or not? And this is the MAIN selling point of the 2795









Only way to really sort this out is to have guys disassemble their panels and check the actual panel model # ... then compare and see if they are mixing and matching with the model tags on the back?









Have fun ... drove the QNIX guys crazy for quite sometime








Just be glad we got in on the PWM Free lottery


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Bah ... your OK, but looks like the 2795 is headed down the same road as the QNIX!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like they will all overclock BUT It will become a "lottery" for the new guys, weather they receive a PWM Free panel or not? And this is the MAIN selling point of the 2795
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only way to really sort this out is to have guys disassemble their panels and check the actual panel model # ... then compare and see if they are mixing and matching with the model tags on the back?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have fun ... drove the QNIX guys crazy for quite sometime
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just be glad we got in on the PWM Free lottery


Amen to that


----------



## geoffropuff

So to sum things up, 27 QHD = 2795QHD (PROBABLY). Old monitor was PWM free, new monitor not necessarily PWM-free.

I don't wanna try blind luck because i am not a lucky man.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepchunk*
> 
> Yup that exact one from green-sum


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NullPointer*
> 
> Yea that looks to be the right one. I bought mine from green sum, I included the link in my previous post on the last page, where I posted my results. It's in the quote. Compare the monitors just to make sure


Are yours both PWM free?


----------



## deepchunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoffropuff*
> 
> So to sum things up, 27 QHD = 2795QHD (PROBABLY). Old monitor was PWM free, new monitor not necessarily PWM-free.
> 
> I don't wanna try blind luck because i am not a lucky man.
> 
> Are yours both PWM free?


Haven't tested for pwm, but here's my panel number 3110T-0999A
Anyone else checked? Assuming that the 2795 has the same driver board as the 27QHD (they show up as the same in windows), if the panel is the same these might be literally identical monitors.


----------



## 175pi

edit: found my answer a few pages back. Ordered the 2795 from green-sum, can't wait for it to show up next week!


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepchunk*
> 
> The 27QHD has had 3 iterations, older ones didn't OC. This gets repeated leading to confusion, but the newest AH IPS version does OC.
> 
> Where did I come up with the idea?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I *own one* OCed to 96 Hz.
> As for other evidence:
> Post 494 in this thread shows another user with his Oced.
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/3am18a/meta_when_is_the_best_time_to_buy_monitors/csdutr0


Sorry, my mistake then. Why doesnt this thread include the 27QHD in the title?


----------



## majikfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Sadly, the conclusion that I draw from these proceedings is that the only difference between the 2795QHD and the 27QHD is the OC capability.
> 
> Luckily, I do not seem to be affected by the PWM dimming that this monitor uses. It is purely individual, however, and I still feel that this monitor was worth the purchase.


Yeah I'm still happy with my purchase. I don't get headaches or anything and I only noticed the PWM after I read this thread again so I guess it wasn't a big deal for me. Just to make sure though, the pictures I sent should just be no lines instead of the few lines I have yeah?


----------



## Unownbeing

I tried my crappy phone to see If I could determine if my monitor uses PWM. I took several more pics then the ones posted, and I was not able to find any PWM artifacts.
The camera shutter was set to 1/3 exposure. Next might be to take apart the panel and google the ICs on the PCB.


----------



## deepchunk

Yay, no PWM on my 27QHD:


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepchunk*
> 
> Yay, no PWM on my 27QHD:


Could you detail what you did to test?

A PWM test that I know of is the blurbusters test (link here). Try that one and post the results.

Edit: The blurbusters test I linked to is a visual test, not one to take photos of. Do not use it to verify PWM dimming, instead use this test.


----------



## deepchunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Could you detail what you did to test?
> 
> A PWM test that I know of is the blurbusters test (link here). Try that one and post the results.


I followed the "Testing and Interpretation" section of this guide
The picture was taken at about 15% brightness.


----------



## maxpower2078

I am looking to use this monitor with a surface pro 2 via displayport. I know crossover makes a model with displayport on it for a few bucks more. Will this be capable of displaying 2560x1440?

Like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27QW-DP-IPS-LED-27-LG-AH-IPS-2560X1440-DVI-HDMI-Displayport-MONITOR-/131077983187?hash=item1e84db4bd3


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxpower2078*
> 
> I am looking to use this monitor with a surface pro 2 via displayport. I know crossover makes a model with displayport on it for a few bucks more. Will this be capable of displaying 2560x1440?
> 
> Like this
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27QW-DP-IPS-LED-27-LG-AH-IPS-2560X1440-DVI-HDMI-Displayport-MONITOR-/131077983187?hash=item1e84db4bd3


What is your usage going to be? If it's text based, this monitor is very, very good. It is indeed a 1440p panel, and the Displayport input should support that resolution. The display is also Plasma Deposition Coated, which results in less reflective displays and clearer text, but makes blacks seem more like dark grays. The only downside is, that I don't think it can overclock without dropping frames...


----------



## maxpower2078

this would be a monitor for working at home and some photo editing, no gaming or minimal at most and not any need for overclocking.

So compared to the QNIX 2710, this is a better unit as far as picture quality or at that point are we just comparing one apples to apples in comparison to a TN panel?


----------



## deepchunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxpower2078*
> 
> this would be a monitor for working at home and some photo editing, no gaming or minimal at most and not any need for overclocking.
> 
> So compared to the QNIX 2710, this is a better unit as far as picture quality or at that point are we just comparing one apples to apples in comparison to a TN panel?


This will have better picture quality than the qnix. The popularity of the QNIX mostly stems from its low input lag and overclockability leading to it being a good gaming monitor. If you aren't doing much gaming, go for the 27QW.


----------



## maxpower2078

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepchunk*
> 
> This will have better picture quality than the qnix. The popularity of the QNIX mostly stems from its low input lag and overclockability leading to it being a good gaming monitor. If you aren't doing much gaming, go for the 27QW.


Thanks, hopefully it's worth the extra $120


----------



## deepchunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxpower2078*
> 
> Thanks, hopefully it's worth the extra $120


The wasabi mango QHD277 is almost identical (PDC coating, multi-input, AH IPS) and significantly cheaper, but might suffer from worse brightness controls. (Unconfirmed)


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepchunk*
> 
> The wasabi mango QHD277 is almost identical (PDC coating, multi-input, AH IPS) and significantly cheaper, but might suffer from worse brightness controls. (Unconfirmed)


The QHD277 Universal indeed does not have proper brightness controls, and it raises the gamma when the brightness is lowered too. The Crossover 27QW DP is the only multi-input monitor with PDC which has proper brightness controls along with the new Hazro HZ27WiDP (TFT Central Review), iiyama XB2779QS and Planar PXL2790MW. Both the iiyama and Planar have very minimum brightness of 170cdm/2. The glossy Crossover 2720MDP has proper brightness controls and displayport.

@majikfx

Use a higher shutter speed like 1/15-1/25, otherwise the photos won't turn out well. The easiest way to test for PWM is to enable Windows Aero and check the Test UFO PWM test for multiple, separated and moving vertical lines.


----------



## Unownbeing

Well it looks like my monitor is PWM light controlled. I used the UFO Blur Busters test and these are the results. I must say Im a little heart-broken to find this out. One of the main reasons
for getting this panel was that it is PWM free to help with blurry, fast moving details and less eyestrain. I have however spent alot of time in front of this thing and really doesn't seem to cause eyestrain.
Hopefully well see some 4K 34' curved screens with Gysnc in the next two years or so


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unownbeing*
> 
> Well it looks like my monitor is PWM light controlled. I used the UFO Blur Busters test and these are the results. I must say Im a little heart-broken to find this out.


You're heart broken because you didn't read the instructions. The Test UFO test is a visual test, not one which should be taken pictures of.


----------



## RTK29

Just so everyone is aware Green-sum seems to be having a sale on the Pixel Perfect version of the 2795 QHD Only the 16th and 17th though

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-IPS-Monitor-Matte-/141740633783?hash=item2100666eb7

The regular version is still priced at $315

You can combo it with this deal for ebay gift cards and you can effectively get the monitor for $244

http://www.target.com/p/ebay-100-email-delivery/-/A-18761276#prodSlot=medium_1_12&term=ebay+gift+cards


----------



## deepchunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unownbeing*
> 
> Well it looks like my monitor is PWM light controlled. I used the UFO Blur Busters test and these are the results. I must say Im a little heart-broken to find this out. One of the main reasons
> for getting this panel was that it is PWM free to help with blurry, fast moving details and less eyestrain. I have however spent alot of time in front of this thing and really doesn't seem to cause eyestrain.
> Hopefully well see some 4K 34' curved screens with Gysnc in the next two years or so


I don't think that's evidence of pwm dimming


----------



## s0lkim

Awesome! My monitor has just arrived! I will test it out tonight and let everyone know how it goes!


----------



## Dekkers

This monitor is on sale for $269 today. From green-sum. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-IPS-Monitor-Matte-/141740633783?hash=item2100666eb7


----------



## shoozter

Thinking about pulling the trigger during this sale later today. Does anyone know the exact time the sale ends today?


----------



## Mantis0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dekkers*
> 
> This monitor is on sale for $269 today. From green-sum. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-IPS-Monitor-Matte-/141740633783?hash=item2100666eb7


Would gladly take that deal. But does not ship to Europe. Contacted them about it because they send other monitors there.


----------



## peterke1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mantis0*
> 
> Would gladly take that deal. But does not ship to Europe. Contacted them about it because they send other monitors there.


Please post their response here, also from Europe, really want one of those as well ^^


----------



## 175pi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dekkers*
> 
> This monitor is on sale for $269 today. From green-sum. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-IPS-Monitor-Matte-/141740633783?hash=item2100666eb7


I just put my order for this from green-sum in Saturday and it shipped Monday. Anyone have any experience getting the sellers to price match themselves in these situations?


----------



## Bryanud

Ugh. I just got one from dream-seller for 339.99. I also made the mistake of paying extra for the pixel perfect version. It had clearly NOT been opened or inspected in any way based on packaging. The panel has 2/3 of a dead pixel (only red works on/off) and some minor backlight bleed at top (not too bad). Uniformity is astoundingly good for an IPS of this resolution - some of the best ive ever seen. Only gets 96Hz though. I thought 100 was fine but i saw one case of blue artifacting in Witcher 2. Otherwise i like it a lot. It can get astoundingly dim and very bright too.

Do you guys think its worth paying to return this and ordering a new one at this sale price?


----------



## Mantis0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peterke1337*
> 
> Please post their response here, also from Europe, really want one of those as well ^^


Will do. I already asked them the same thing about a different offer on Saturday. Haven't heard from them. yet. But I think they had a holiday. So hopefully I receive a positive answer before the deal ends.


----------



## geoffropuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *175pi*
> 
> I just put my order for this from green-sum in Saturday and it shipped Monday. Anyone have any experience getting the sellers to price match themselves in these situations?


i JUST ordered the 27QHD yesterday since it was cheaper than the 2795. I don't think my order has shipped yet so I messaged green-sum to see if they can swap the two monitors. I'm hoping for a favorable outcome. If not, I may end up getting the 2795 and re-selling the 27 or just keeping both for a dual setup? Gah, this always happens...


----------



## 175pi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoffropuff*
> 
> i JUST ordered the 27QHD yesterday since it was cheaper than the 2795. I don't think my order has shipped yet so I messaged green-sum to see if they can swap the two monitors. I'm hoping for a favorable outcome. If not, I may end up getting the 2795 and re-selling the 27 or just keeping both for a dual setup? Gah, this always happens...


Good luck!

Even though they are shipping so fast around the world (my pkg already cleared customs in Ohio), there is a 13 hour time difference between here and Seoul, waiting for email replies from him take almost a day.


----------



## geoffropuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *175pi*
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> Even though they are shipping so fast around the world (my pkg already cleared customs in Ohio), there is a 13 hour time difference between here and Seoul, waiting for email replies from him take almost a day.


If it doesn't go through, I can probably take solace in the fact that through the limited research people have done, they're probably the same thing.


----------



## Bryanud

Someone on reddit/r/buildapcsales said they contacted green-sum about it. The response was that some of the panels used now do use PWM -

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/3h8zqs/slug/cu64d5b

Im going to have to check the panel i just got. Although the dream-seller listing DID say flicker-free, so i hope i got some of the original panel stock.

Edit: I just checked and it loks like my order didnt say flicker free in the description or details. Although i could have sworn it did. Huh.


----------



## 175pi

Just noticed he did reply to me. My request has been denied because he says I ordered the NON pixel perfect version and the one on sale is the pixel perfect version. I could see it the other way around getting denied, this is odd.
For what it's worth, the one I did buy does say "flicker free" in the description, so I wonder if that is really the difference between these 2.


----------



## geoffropuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoffropuff*
> 
> If it doesn't go through, I can probably take solace in the fact that through the limited research people have done, they're probably the same thing.


Green-sum responded and said that since my monitor hadn't yet shipped, they could do the swap for me. Now, just hoping I don't get a PWM version.


----------



## kahluacarl

Hi All,

I asked Green-Sum if any of the Crossover 27's are PWM-free and here was his response- not very helpful-- any recommendations on which monitor is best? 2795? 27QHD? or is there no difference.

_Hello,

Thank you for contacting us.

From what we've heard from other buyers the Crossover 2795QHD does not use LED PWM Dimming, but recommend doing some research before purchasing as the manufacturer doesn't accept returns unless there's an issue.

Thank you.

- green-sum_


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bryanud*
> 
> I'd like to point out that green-sum's listing for this sale does not mention flicker-free or PWM-free. Someone on reddit/r/buildapcsales said they contacted green-sum about it. The response was that some of the panels used now do use PWM -
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/3h8zqs/slug/cu64d5b
> , some 2795s use PWM dimming now. I guess we're going down the same road as the Qnix...


----------



## kahluacarl

Aye. I wonder if it's worth risking it, as it seems like some people do have PWM free Crossovers. The ebay posting does say "flicker free" at the bottom of the page in the item description. Is that the same as PWM free?


----------



## Bryanud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> eBay listings can be edited. I found that out the hard way, when a listing I'd had in my cart for months suddenly changed, and no longer shipped to where I live. C'est la vie...
> According to a
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/3h8zqs/slug/cu64d5b
> , some 2795s use PWM dimming now. I guess we're going down the same road as the Qnix...


Yeah i posed the same reddit post above. It looks like most 2795 qhd listings don't or no longer mention flicker-free. I think dream-seller's said flicker free at one point.

Hard not to call it bait and switch, but at least they are honest by not listing them as flicker free.

EDIT: My mistskr green-sum is still advertising flicker free


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kahluacarl*
> 
> Aye. I wonder if it's worth risking it, as it seems like some people do have PWM free Crossovers. The ebay posting does say "flicker free" at the bottom of the page in the item description. Is that the same as PWM free?


As one of the people who have PWM-free Crossovers, I don't think you should risk it. PWM dimming may not have any effect on you whatsoever, or it could give you headaches and eye strain.

Flicker-free should be the same as PWM-free, but I wouldn't count on that- listings for the Qnix also state it's "flicker free".


----------



## kahluacarl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bryanud*
> 
> Yeah i posed the same reddit post above. It looks like most 2795 qhd listings don't or no longer mention flicker-free. I think dream-seller's said flicker free at one point.
> 
> Hard not to call it bait and switch, but at least they are honest by not listing them as flicker free.


It says flicker free twice on this page:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-IPS-Monitor-Matte-/141740633783?hash=item2100666eb7

Also, I know there are some comments about 2795 vs. 27qhd. Is the general consensus that there is no real difference?

Specifically:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-IPS-Monitor-Matte-/141740633783?hash=item2100666eb7

vs.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-27QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-LG-IPS-2560X1440-QHD-Monitor-Matte-/141115538942?hash=item20db243dfe


----------



## kahluacarl

Thanks. A poster on reddit just wrote this:

"... PWM is the issue. The listing claims the monitor if flicker-free, which would be impossible with PWM. I called green-sum and they said they would contact the manufacturer for information, and said I could purchase the monitor and quickly message green-sum to put the order on hold until I get a response. That way if it's indeed PWM, I could just cancel the order."


----------



## Bryanud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kahluacarl*
> 
> It says flicker free twice on this page:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-IPS-Monitor-Matte-/141740633783?hash=item2100666eb7
> 
> Also, I know there are some comments about 2795 vs. 27qhd. Is the general consensus that there is no real difference?
> 
> Specifically:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-IPS-Monitor-Matte-/141740633783?hash=item2100666eb7
> 
> vs.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-27QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-LG-IPS-2560X1440-QHD-Monitor-Matte-/141115538942?hash=item20db243dfe


You're right. I dont know how i missed that. Must have been looking at a different seller or listing by mistake.


----------



## deepchunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kahluacarl*
> 
> It says flicker free twice on this page:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-IPS-Monitor-Matte-/141740633783?hash=item2100666eb7
> 
> Also, I know there are some comments about 2795 vs. 27qhd. Is the general consensus that there is no real difference?
> 
> Specifically:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-IPS-Monitor-Matte-/141740633783?hash=item2100666eb7
> 
> vs.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-27QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-LG-IPS-2560X1440-QHD-Monitor-Matte-/141115538942?hash=item20db243dfe


No real difference. They even share the same model number. Note this is only for the AH-IPS version, the S-IPS version on sale right now is different.


----------



## DiaSin

Could someone give me a quick breakdown on what PWM flicker is? I ran that test someone linked a couple of days ago with the moving vertical lines on my current monitor (Asus VS248H-P) and they seemed to look a bit odd, almost like they were doubling up at times but I'm not sure if thats the result its looking for, or if non-IPS panels like my current monitor even have PWM at all.

What I am wondering is that if those results I saw with that test mean my current non-ips has PWM flicker, that would mean that isn't something that bothers me as I have used this display for more than 2 years now with no problems, and hence wouldn't have a problem with a corssover that had it, but like I said, I don't even fully understand what PWM is.


----------



## TylerAD

I agree.. I also want to know what we can look for in a test to show we have the PWM free or with model. On the line test with the blur busters I too have what looks like 4 vertical lines (when from reading it seems it should only been 1 line if PWM free? Can someone please make sense of all this? My model number on back shows the 2795 and I have the Cat Head logo vs. the crossover name spelled out. I bought my off amazon, but the seller/page is no longer available.


----------



## Milamber

I have SLI 980's and a Crossover 2795QHD.

I thought I was doing this correct but it might be wrong, so I thought I'd post here to ask!









I have official nvidia drivers and windows 10, set a custom resolution with a refresh rate of 85hz and thats it, is this all that is need to overclock or am I missing something?


----------



## Mantis0

As for green-sum shipping to Europe. Here is the answer I received.
Quote:


> Hello,
> 
> Thank you for contacting us.
> 
> We can ship this monitor to Europe but there will be an extra shipping charge of $20 because DHL charges extra to ship it there. If you would still like to purchase it, please provide us with your Paypal email and we'll send you an invoice for the extra shipping fee.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> -


With the PWM discussion I am not sure that I should take it. May just take the Dell U2515H instead and pass on the OCing.

edit:

According to someone from reddit the display is PWM-free after all?


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/3h8zqs/monitor_pixel_perfect_crossover_2795qhd_ahips_led/cu6g282


----------



## haru3173

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Could someone give me a quick breakdown on what PWM flicker is? I ran that test someone linked a couple of days ago with the moving vertical lines on my current monitor (Asus VS248H-P) and they seemed to look a bit odd, almost like they were doubling up at times but I'm not sure if thats the result its looking for, or if non-IPS panels like my current monitor even have PWM at all.
> 
> What I am wondering is that if those results I saw with that test mean my current non-ips has PWM flicker, that would mean that isn't something that bothers me as I have used this display for more than 2 years now with no problems, and hence wouldn't have a problem with a corssover that had it, but like I said, I don't even fully understand what PWM is.


this is what pwm looks like 




the pwm in this video is too noticable though or probably because its captured in camera and not through a naked eye?

I also followed the guide to check for pwm and mine is pwm free using the tests I followed here
http://www.flatpanelshd.com/focus.php?subaction=showfull&id=1362457985


----------



## NadavCE

To clear up the confusion arising, I want to explain a few things:

1) *PWM* (*P*ulse *W*idth *M*odulation) dimming is a technique to lower the brightness of a monitor by rapidly turning the backlight on and off. This is why PWM dimming is more noticeable on lower brightness settings- the backlight is off more than it is on. For further explanation, read this page by TFTCentral.

2) The Blurbusters PWM test is meant to be used with your eyesight, not a camera. *Do not use it as a metric to check for PWM dimming.*

3) To test for PWM dimming, follow these instructions:
1. Set your monitor to the brightness and refresh rate you want to test.
2. Download this image, and display it fullscreen.
3. Set your camera to a shutter speed between 1/2 a second and 1/25 of a second. I used 1/10 of a second.
4. Hold the camera at a distance of about two feet from the monitor, and perpendicular to the ground:


Make sure that the line is in focus and clearly visible.
5. While moving the camera sideways, press the shutter button.

If the thick line you captured is solid, your monitor does not use PWM dimming. If it looks anything like this:



the monitor does use PWM.

These instructions were taken from TFTCentral's article about PWM dimming, which can be visited here.


----------



## MadaBeans

Not sure if i did it right or not using my crappy sony W150 potato but here are my pics to assess. (photo took at iso800 setting)

My monitor arrived yesterday from bigclothcraft. I have contacted them as soon as i set it up as there is a large black mark on it. either dead pixels or damaged screen.


----------



## norse-legend

Well I just received my monitor.

The good:
+ Very crisp display
+ Minimal backlight bleed
+ overclocks to 110hz stable (from what I can see)
+ No signs of PWM from doing the above test

The bad
- 4 dead pixels
- Panel not mounted completely square (the black border around the panel itself is inconsistent with the frame)
- was posted in the original packaging only (seriously?)

Shipping took 10 days total, but the dispatch time itself was 6 days. I bought the pixel perfect version from dream-seller at a premium.
Will post photos later.


----------



## Bryanud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norse-legend*
> 
> Well I just received my monitor.
> 
> The good:
> + Very crisp display
> + Minimal backlight bleed
> + overclocks to 110hz stable (from what I can see)
> + No signs of PWM from doing the above test
> 
> The bad
> - 4 dead pixels
> - Panel not mounted completely square (the black border around the panel itself is inconsistent with the frame)
> - was posted in the original packaging only (seriously?)
> 
> Shipping took 10 days total, but the dispatch time itself was 6 days. I bought the pixel perfect version from dream-seller at a premium.
> Will post photos later.


If it makes you feel any better about those pixels, I'm super jealous of that 110Hz overclock. Stock Cable?

I ordered perfect pixel from dream-seller too, two-thirds of a dead pixel, some backlight bleed, and only gets up to 96Hz... And even that might be iffy. Also the box was shipprd the same way. It looked pretty rough.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> To clear up the confusion arising, I want to explain a few things:
> 
> 1) *PWM* (*P*ulse *W*idth *M*odulation) dimming is a technique to lower the brightness of a monitor by rapidly turning the backlight on and off. This is why PWM dimming is more noticeable on lower brightness settings- the backlight is off more than it is on. For further explanation, read this page by TFTCentral.
> 
> 2) The Blurbusters PWM test is meant to be used with your eyesight, not a camera. *Do not use it as a metric to check for PWM dimming.*
> 
> 3) To test for PWM dimming, follow these instructions:
> 1. Set your monitor to the brightness and refresh rate you want to test.
> 2. Download this image, and display it fullscreen.
> 3. Set your camera to a shutter speed between 1/2 a second and 1/25 of a second. I used 1/10 of a second.
> 4. Hold the camera at a distance of about two feet from the monitor, and perpendicular to the ground:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure that the line is in focus and clearly visible.
> 5. While moving the camera sideways, press the shutter button.
> 
> If the thick line you captured is solid, your monitor does not use PWM dimming. If it looks anything like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the monitor does use PWM.
> 
> These instructions were taken from TFTCentral's article about PWM dimming, which can be visited here.


Ok.. so.. following those instructions I got a few pictures like this one. This is cropped from the fuzzy picture it made when I set minimum shutter speed to 1/8th.










So.. it seems that my monitor does not have PWM, which means I have no idea if I am one of the people PWM affects.... I suspect that a feature of this monitor I have disabled MAY be PWM, its called ASCR, or Asus Smart Contrast Ratio, and it adjusts the backlight to control contrast, which resulted in certain dark scenes being way TOO dark so I just turned it off.

On a side note.. the macro capabilities of my good camera surprise me sometimes, considering it IS still a point-and-shoot.


----------



## deepchunk

....RIP 2795?

https://i.imgur.com/eZZOBDT.png


----------



## norse-legend

Some photos. Apologies for the bad camera settings, I was in a rush and just used whatever settings worked on full manual.






I couldn't get an up close shot of the dead pixels with the lens I had on.
Anybody had any luck with those dead pixel fixing websites that spam the screen with noise before?


----------



## deepchunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norse-legend*
> 
> Some photos. Apologies for the bad camera settings, I was in a rush and just used whatever settings worked on full manual.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't get an up close shot of the dead pixels with the lens I had on.
> Anybody had any luck with those dead pixel fixing websites that spam the screen with noise before?


Is it dead or stuck? Stuck can sometimes be fixed, dead can't


----------



## norse-legend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bryanud*
> 
> If it makes you feel any better about those pixels, I'm super jealous of that 110Hz overclock. Stock Cable?
> 
> I ordered perfect pixel from dream-seller too, two-thirds of a dead pixel, some backlight bleed, and only gets up to 96Hz... And even that might be iffy. Also the box was shipprd the same way. It looked pretty rough.


Yup stock cable. I really don't believe changing cables will give you any advantage in overclocking.
Btw how do you get 2/3 of a dead pixel?
Also I can't seem to get the 120hz option to appear no matter what I try. I patched the modified AMD drivers and used the CRU program to set custom resolutions but the 120hz won't appear. I can only select 60hz, 96hz and 110hz from the drop down menu in windows.


----------



## TylerAD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> To clear up the confusion arising, I want to explain a few things:
> 
> 1) *PWM* (*P*ulse *W*idth *M*odulation) dimming is a technique to lower the brightness of a monitor by rapidly turning the backlight on and off. This is why PWM dimming is more noticeable on lower brightness settings- the backlight is off more than it is on. For further explanation, read this page by TFTCentral.
> 
> 2) The Blurbusters PWM test is meant to be used with your eyesight, not a camera. *Do not use it as a metric to check for PWM dimming.*
> 
> 3) To test for PWM dimming, follow these instructions:
> 1. Set your monitor to the brightness and refresh rate you want to test.
> 2. Download this image, and display it fullscreen.
> 3. Set your camera to a shutter speed between 1/2 a second and 1/25 of a second. I used 1/10 of a second.
> 4. Hold the camera at a distance of about two feet from the monitor, and perpendicular to the ground:
> 
> 
> Make sure that the line is in focus and clearly visible.
> 5. While moving the camera sideways, press the shutter button.
> 
> If the thick line you captured is solid, your monitor does not use PWM dimming. If it looks anything like this:
> 
> 
> 
> the monitor does use PWM.
> 
> These instructions were taken from TFTCentral's article about PWM dimming, which can be visited here.


To clarify do you mean seeing separated lines is sign of the PWM dimming? Or in your picture are you referring to the lines + green lines? I do not have a camera in which I can adjust shutter speed, so when taking a picture from my phone I get about 4 ish distinct lines. However, with the lower shutter speed would this then look like one large line? I just want to understand (sorry if this is being redundant).


----------



## haru3173

Anyone can help me why vsr option doesnt show up in this monitor? I have an lg tv also hooked up in my comp for watching netflix and I can enable vsr on my lg tv.


----------



## Bryanud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norse-legend*
> 
> Yup stock cable. I really don't believe changing cables will give you any advantage in overclocking.
> Btw how do you get 2/3 of a dead pixel?


Only the red subpixel works. Blue and green are dead. Looks red on white, black on black/blue/green, and fine on red. Of course thats not really accurate since im not displaying these "pure" colors. In general though it's how it works.

Dont know how common that is. Especially two dead subpixels in the same pixel. Maybe that means it can be fixed, but i doubt it.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TylerAD*
> 
> To clarify do you mean seeing separated lines is sign of the PWM dimming? Or in your picture are you referring to the lines + green lines? I do not have a camera in which I can adjust shutter speed, so when taking a picture from my phone I get about 4 ish distinct lines. However, with the lower shutter speed would this then look like one large line? I just want to understand (sorry if this is being redundant).


Having distinctly separated lines is a sign of PWM dimming. If you're using an Android device, try Camera FV-5 Lite. It will let you adjust your shutter speed.


----------



## 175pi

Wow that was fast. Ordered Saturday, shipped Monday and arrived about 5 minutes ago. Too bad I'm still stuck at work lol


----------



## SloppyG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haru3173*
> 
> Anyone can help me why vsr option doesnt show up in this monitor? I have an lg tv also hooked up in my comp for watching netflix and I can enable vsr on my lg tv.


Based on: http://www.amd.com/en-us/innovations/software-technologies/technologies-gaming/vsr

you need to place your monitor in 2560 X 1440 @ 60HZ mode first, then you should have the option to use a VSR of 3200 X 1800


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> To clear up the confusion arising, I want to explain a few things:
> 
> 1) *PWM* (*P*ulse *W*idth *M*odulation) dimming is a technique to lower the brightness of a monitor by rapidly turning the backlight on and off. This is why PWM dimming is more noticeable on lower brightness settings- the backlight is off more than it is on. For further explanation, read this page by TFTCentral.
> 
> 2) The Blurbusters PWM test is meant to be used with your eyesight, not a camera. *Do not use it as a metric to check for PWM dimming.*
> 
> 3) To test for PWM dimming, follow these instructions:
> 1. Set your monitor to the brightness and refresh rate you want to test.
> 2. Download this image, and display it fullscreen.
> 3. Set your camera to a shutter speed between 1/2 a second and 1/25 of a second. I used 1/10 of a second.
> 4. Hold the camera at a distance of about two feet from the monitor, and perpendicular to the ground:
> 
> 
> Make sure that the line is in focus and clearly visible.
> 5. While moving the camera sideways, press the shutter button.
> 
> If the thick line you captured is solid, your monitor does not use PWM dimming. If it looks anything like this:
> 
> 
> 
> the monitor does use PWM.
> 
> These instructions were taken from TFTCentral's article about PWM dimming, which can be visited here.


Nice post1 +R ... I would add NCX recommends a 1/15 to 1/25 shutter speed









Also I like the quick scan with any smartphone, just open your camera app and center it on the screen, white background preferred. If PWM is present it will show up like green-sums picture below (L panel) as pulsating/moving greyish lines











If you pass this test and want to be sure, then move on to the more in-depth TFT test you describe. If any greyish lines show up when the panel is NOT at 100% brightness, you have PWM diming which will cause problems if your susceptible to it's effects


----------



## Mantis0

I also asked green-sum if the monitor used PWM.



Guess I'll go for it and hope for the best.


----------



## BusterOddo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mantis0*
> 
> I also asked green-sum if the monitor used PWM.
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I'll go for it and hope for the best.


Now I'm confused. Post# 578 shows a response from green-sum that says it DOES use the PWM dimming panel?????

Man I really want to grab this monitor, 269.00 right now, 1440P and most likely 96hz, seems like a really nice option...


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BusterOddo*
> 
> Now I'm confused. Post# 578 shows a response from green-sum that says it DOES use the PWM dimming panel?????
> 
> Man I really want to grab this monitor, 269.00 right now, 1440P and most likely 96hz, seems like a really nice option...


What is probably happening now, is that a new batch of the 2795 is being released and slowly replacing the older batches. This new batch uses PWM dimming, while the older batch didn't.

A similar thing happened to the Qnix QX2710- which now uses at least 3 different panels and PWM dimming. I'd hate to see that happen to the 2795QHD, it's such a great display...


----------



## Bryanud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> What is probably happening now, is that a new batch of the 2795 is being released and slowly replacing the older batches. This new batch uses PWM dimming, while the older batch didn't.
> 
> A similar thing happened to the Qnix QX2710- which now uses at least 3 different panels and PWM dimming. I'd hate to see that happen to the 2795QHD, it's such a great display...


Its also possible that all the panels still are PWM free and people are freaking out over nothing. I havent seen any hard evidence/confirmation of any PWM panels. Couod someone point me to any?

The messages from greensum have been inconsistant. In that reddit thread there was one quote saying yes to PWM, one saying they'd have to ask the manufacturer but users have told them no PWM, and one hard no PWM. Green-sum could just be covering themselves just in case. Or different people who dont know.


----------



## Demonz

Confirmation from Green-sum that the panel does not use PWM dimming


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bryanud*
> 
> Its also possible that all the panels still are PWM free and people are freaking out over nothing. I haven't seen any hard evidence/confirmation of any PWM panels. Could someone point me to any?
> 
> The messages from greensum have been inconsistant. In that reddit thread there was one quote saying yes to PWM, one saying they'd have to ask the manufacturer but users have told them no PWM, and one hard no PWM. Green-sum could just be covering themselves just in case. Or different people who don't know.


That certainly is a possibility. All the conflicting information from Green-sum, reddit and other users on this forum is very, very confusing.


----------



## geoffropuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> That certainly is a possibility. All the conflicting information from Green-sum, reddit and other users on this forum is very, very confusing.


I was tempted to buy one of each 27QHD and 2795QHD to test side by side. Unfortunately, don't have the spending money right now. I'll at least be able to add the data point from my 2795 when it comes in tomorrow or Thursday. I'll follow NadavCE's directions and hope hope hope that I got a PWM-free version.


----------



## deepchunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bryanud*
> 
> Its also possible that all the panels still are PWM free and people are freaking out over nothing. I havent seen any hard evidence/confirmation of any PWM panels. Couod someone point me to any?
> 
> The messages from greensum have been inconsistant. In that reddit thread there was one quote saying yes to PWM, one saying they'd have to ask the manufacturer but users have told them no PWM, and one hard no PWM. Green-sum could just be covering themselves just in case. Or different people who dont know.


Here is the only hard evidence, from one user who bought his during the likely FIRST batch: http://www.overclock.net/t/1555354/official-crossover-2795-qhd-pwm-flicker-free-overclock-able-matte-1440p-ah-ips/500#post_24294783


----------



## TylerAD

So looks like a solid line to me, even when I zoom in. I guess I am PWM free!


----------



## rissie

Hi all,

Long time lurker... just wanted to thank all the individuals who contributed to this thread. I took a chance and purchased one during Green-sum's sale. Took two days to arrive and it seems I got lucky. No dead pixels and 96Hz straight out of the box. I tried 112hz (which was the max with the 450 pixel clock that someone raised in the thread), but I got some artifacting after awhile. Whatever it is, I'm happy with this.

Mine does not have the crossover word on the bezel as well... just the cartoon face. It's a little childish but I hardly notice it. The stand really is pretty crappy but it's doing fine on a solid table (well, once you get the tilt angle right - that was a real PITA).

EDIT: Just tried 110Hz and it's doing that fine. I can't seem to be able to view the images (too low res?) for the OC guide on how to tweak the timings to reach 120Hz so I haven't tried that for now.


----------



## BusterOddo

Well went ahead and placed the order....Fingers crossed no issues. The sale price did go up $10 since yesterday, but $279 with shipping seems ok. I am pretty excited though this is my first 1440P screen. Delivery says between next Monday-Friday


----------



## Mantis0

I ordered yesterday. Had to do it via mail because I am in Europe. Now the waiting begins.

edit: Did you receive a tracking number from green-sum?


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mantis0*
> 
> I ordered yesterday. Had to do it via mail because I am in Europe. Now the waiting begins.
> 
> edit: Did you receive a tracking number from green-sum?


Green sum sent it via DHL, so I did get that tracking number - that said, DHL's email notifcations all came in a bundle (i.e. useless!)


----------



## peterke1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mantis0*
> 
> I ordered yesterday. Had to do it via mail because I am in Europe. Now the waiting begins.
> 
> edit: Did you receive a tracking number from green-sum?


Wait what? I thought they didn't ship to Europe, period?

Could you elaborate?


----------



## Demonz

Green-Sum said that he was going to send me a tracking number, i also live in Europe. I ordered last night, and yet to receive my tracking number though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peterke1337*
> 
> Wait what? I thought they didn't ship to Europe, period?
> 
> Could you elaborate?


Green-sum will ship to Europe for a fee.


----------



## Mantis0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peterke1337*
> 
> Wait what? I thought they didn't ship to Europe, period?
> 
> Could you elaborate?


I contacted them directly on eBay. They told me that shipping to my country would cost 20$. I just had to send them my Paypal email address.

edit:
I also asked them if it is possible to mark the price down because of custom fees. They'll mark it as a gift at half the price. Wonder if that will actually work.


----------



## lcris123

Hello, I just got my monitor today and was trying to calibrate the colors with color sustainer. Every time I associate the profile it doesn't change anything. Any advice ? 
This is what I see.


----------



## dainfamous

Do you guys purchase square trade warranty for this monitor?


----------



## peterke1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mantis0*
> 
> I contacted them directly on eBay. They told me that shipping to my country would cost 20$. I just had to send them my Paypal email address.
> 
> edit:
> I also asked them if it is possible to mark the price down because of custom fees. They'll mark it as a gift at half the price. Wonder if that will actually work.


Yea keep me up to date, customs can add like 70-100 euros here in the Netherlands.. Next time i see a QNIX or Crossover on sale ill probally get one, was just too late now


----------



## Mantis0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peterke1337*
> 
> Yea keep me up to date, customs can add like 70-100 euros here in the Netherlands.. Next time i see a QNIX or Crossover on sale ill probally get one, was just too late now


Will do. But the price for the Crossover "only" increased by 10$. 279 + 20 for shipping (I assume it will also be 20 for the Netherlands) now.

Hope I'll receive a shipping confirmation soon.


----------



## GetTheMoney

Hey all,

Just got this monitor and can't seem to figure out how to access the OSD. Does it have one? A bunch of the buttons on the bottom of the screen seemingly do nothing.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetTheMoney*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> Just got this monitor and can't seem to figure out how to access the OSD. Does it have one? A bunch of the buttons on the bottom of the screen seemingly do nothing.


That is because this is an overclock monitor. There is no add-on board, so no OSD and you control color and contrast through your graphics card control panel. No add-on board also means little to no input lag as well. Did you not read the sellers info or anything here before you bought it?


----------



## GetTheMoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> That is because this is an overclock monitor. There is no add-on board, so no OSD and you control color and contrast through your graphics card control panel. No add-on board also means little to no input lag as well. Did you not read the sellers info or anything here before you bought it?


I knew about the overclocking, which was a main selling point. Didn't know OSDs aren't compatible with overclocking though. Not a huge deal, contrast and gamma are close to perfect as is and color temperature is controllable in CCC.


----------



## majikfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TylerAD*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So looks like a solid line to me, even when I zoom in. I guess I am PWM free!


What was your shutter speed? Maybe mine looks like I have dimming because my shutter speed was 1/2 and 1/4 because I was told by another member to try 1/25
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Nice post1 +R ... I would add NCX recommends a 1/15 to 1/25 shutter speed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I like the quick scan with any smartphone, just open your camera app and center it on the screen, white background preferred. If PWM is present it will show up like green-sums picture below (L panel) as pulsating/moving greyish lines
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you pass this test and want to be sure, then move on to the more in-depth TFT test you describe. If any greyish lines show up when the panel is NOT at 100% brightness, you have PWM diming which will cause problems if your susceptible to it's effects


+R thanks mate. I used a shutter speed of 1/2 and 1/4 on my iPhone through a third party app and I got the vertical lines mentioned in the TFT article but when I put my phone camera on the white background I don't get the horizontal lines going down. I even did the fan method where you put a fan in front of the monitor and even then it's flicker free. I'll try and find a way to get a hold of a camera with something like a 1/15 to see.


----------



## lester007

bought it last night in greensum, i recieve tracking via dhl, i cant wait


----------



## BadRobot

Bought mine from Dream Seller. Estimated arrival between the 30th of August and the 2nd of september. Woo


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetTheMoney*
> 
> I knew about the overclocking, which was a main selling point. Didn't know OSDs aren't compatible with overclocking though. Not a huge deal, contrast and gamma are close to perfect as is and color temperature is controllable in CCC.


Basically the addon boards are what handle signal processing for multi-input monitors, this signal processing is what lets them work properly with integrated graphics and whatnot, however the signal processing introduces a certain level of input lag and signal delay, which is why you cannot overclock multi-input monitors. Not having that board means that the monitor is receiving the raw signal from your gpu with no processing inbetween.


----------



## Mantis0

Received my tracking number from green-sum. ETA is Monday.


----------



## TylerAD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majikfx*
> 
> What was your shutter speed? Maybe mine looks like I have dimming because my shutter speed was 1/2 and 1/4 because I was told by another member to try 1/25
> +R thanks mate. I used a shutter speed of 1/2 and 1/4 on my iPhone through a third party app and I got the vertical lines mentioned in the TFT article but when I put my phone camera on the white background I don't get the horizontal lines going down. I even did the fan method where you put a fan in front of the monitor and even then it's flicker free. I'll try and find a way to get a hold of a camera with something like a 1/15 to see.


Using my phone app (Camera FV 5 Lite) I just used the Long + setting to capture this (hopefully this is a valid method). I think the pictures look confirming enough for me. Whoever knows more about this maybe can instruct me if the line is not large enough or if this does/does not confirm my thoughts that my monitor DOES NOT have PWM.


----------



## geoffropuff

it looks like green-sum's sale price is creeping up very slowly. it had gone up to 279 from 269, but now it's 289.


----------



## RTK29

Just got my monitor from Greensum last night from the $269 pixel perfect sale. Went from Korea to Ohio in <2 days which was pretty impressive.

No dead pixels and not very much backlight bleed that I could see. I overclocked to 96Hz using a 24AWG cable from Monoprice and it seemed to be fine.



It was stable, and without any problems that I could see.

Then today while I was at work my wife messages me, says the monitor is broken, and sends me a picture of what it's doing.



Anyone know what might cause this? She says the screen would be normal one second and then suddenly like this. Is it the overclock, and if so why would it only appear today when I used it for several hours last night without problems?


----------



## s0lkim

I bought my monitor on Thursday last week and received it on the Monday after to West Australia! That is the quickest delivery I have ever had which even beat DHL from Newegg. I got this one from Bigclothcraft who answered all my questions quickly too. Was very happy with the transaction.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141577457081?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Even though it only said 75hz in the ad it did mention flicker free which made me jump on this one. I only set it up last night as I was waiting for my heavy gauge cable to arrive as well. I quickly tested 75, 96 and 110 and they all seemed fine but will check with the Blurbusters page this weekend and post some pics.

I am VERY happy with this purchase and was helped so much with this thread and all the people that have bought one already. The money I saved on this can go towards a video card upgrade in the future


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RTK29*
> 
> Just got my monitor from Greensum last night from the $269 pixel perfect sale. Went from Korea to Ohio in <2 days which was pretty impressive.
> 
> No dead pixels and not very much backlight bleed that I could see. I overclocked to 96Hz using a 24AWG cable from Monoprice and it seemed to be fine.
> 
> 
> 
> It was stable, and without any problems that I could see.
> 
> Then today while I was at work my wife messages me, says the monitor is broken, and sends me a picture of what it's doing.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know what might cause this? She says the screen would be normal one second and then suddenly like this. Is it the overclock, and if so why would it only appear today when I used it for several hours last night without problems?


Maybe the connection to the cable is finicky?


----------



## TylerAD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RTK29*
> 
> Just got my monitor from Greensum last night from the $269 pixel perfect sale. Went from Korea to Ohio in <2 days which was pretty impressive.
> 
> No dead pixels and not very much backlight bleed that I could see. I overclocked to 96Hz using a 24AWG cable from Monoprice and it seemed to be fine.
> 
> 
> 
> It was stable, and without any problems that I could see.
> 
> Then today while I was at work my wife messages me, says the monitor is broken, and sends me a picture of what it's doing.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know what might cause this? She says the screen would be normal one second and then suddenly like this. Is it the overclock, and if so why would it only appear today when I used it for several hours last night without problems?


Woah, that looks like no fun there... ive had the monitor for maybe 4 weeks now and have used for maybe 40 + hours at this point and have not noticed any weird artifacts like this. I have it at 96 HZ with normal timings. Does this go away when you do not have overclocked? Are you using the USA plug/cord or is it a europe plug + adapter? Can you confirm its has 2795 on the model sticker on the back? I also have the version with the cat symbol up front (not the written out Catleep words).


----------



## RTK29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Maybe the connection to the cable is finicky?


Could be. I just got home and made sure it was tightly in there. I'm using the monitor right now and it's back to normal. I'm going to watch it carefully and see what might cause this to happen.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TylerAD*
> 
> Woah, that looks like no fun there... ive had the monitor for maybe 4 weeks now and have used for maybe 40 + hours at this point and have not noticed any weird artifacts like this. I have it at 96 HZ with normal timings. Does this go away when you do not have overclocked? Are you using the USA plug/cord or is it a europe plug + adapter? Can you confirm its has 2795 on the model sticker on the back? I also have the version with the cat symbol up front (not the written out Catleep words).


I haven't used the monitor too extensively w/o it being overclocked. Only time really was while I was installing CRU, etc to overclock it. If it keeps happening I'll for sure drop it back down to 60Hz and see if it still freaks out. Right now I'm using the korean plug + adapter, but I think I'll switch it out for a USA cord tonight. The sticker on the back does say 2795 QHD and the computer recognizes it correctly. Just odd that it would randomly start doing it after using it OC'd all last night. And it seems to be working okay right now.


----------



## rkl1985

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RTK29*
> 
> Just got my monitor from Greensum last night from the $269 pixel perfect sale. Went from Korea to Ohio in <2 days which was pretty impressive.
> 
> No dead pixels and not very much backlight bleed that I could see. I overclocked to 96Hz using a 24AWG cable from Monoprice and it seemed to be fine.
> 
> 
> 
> It was stable, and without any problems that I could see.
> 
> Then today while I was at work my wife messages me, says the monitor is broken, and sends me a picture of what it's doing.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know what might cause this? She says the screen would be normal one second and then suddenly like this. Is it the overclock, and if so why would it only appear today when I used it for several hours last night without problems?


Wow this is exactly what mine was doing earlier in the thread, I had only had it for a bit, worked at first fine, went to OC it to 96hz and then my image ended up simiar to yours, tried everything, could not get it fixed and had to return it.... About to order another from Greensum tonight and try again.


----------



## RTK29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rkl1985*
> 
> Wow this is exactly what mine was doing earlier in the thread, I had only had it for a bit, worked at first fine, went to OC it to 96hz and then my image ended up simiar to yours, tried everything, could not get it fixed and had to return it.... About to order another from Greensum tonight and try again.


Hopefully that isn't the case. This is already the second monitor I've ordered as the first one from dream-seller didn't work.


----------



## GetTheMoney

Is a US plug/adapter recommended? Currently I'm using what came with the monitor. Does it make a difference?


----------



## bezzell

It's either either the cable or the monitor, either way, I'd send it back.


----------



## dainfamous

Do you guys use either the qnix or x-star monitor driver for this display?

Thanks


----------



## 175pi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetTheMoney*
> 
> Is a US plug/adapter recommended? Currently I'm using what came with the monitor. Does it make a difference?


Power adapter? I am using the one that came with the monitor, same with the DVI cable, and both seem just fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> Do you guys use either the qnix or x-star monitor driver for this display?
> 
> Thanks


Is there a monitor driver required for these at all? I plugged it in, set the resolution and OC with the NVidia control panel and haven't looked back.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> Do you guys use either the qnix or x-star monitor driver for this display?
> 
> Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *175pi*
> 
> Is there a monitor driver required for these at all? I plugged it in, set the resolution and OC with the NVidia control panel and haven't looked back.


Pi is correct, there is no need for a monitor drivers to OC the 2795.


----------



## dainfamous

Do you guys run the overclock 24/7? Reason I ask is because my video cards never ramp down while the monitor is overclocked and doing basically nothing. Is there a way to make it ramp down when not doing intensive tasks? I turn off the overclock to do this but wondering if there is another way. Thanks.


----------



## BusterOddo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> Do you guys run the overclock 24/7? Reason I ask is because my video cards never ramp down while the monitor is overclocked and doing basically nothing. Is there a way to make it ramp down when not doing intensive tasks? I turn off the overclock to do this but wondering if there is another way. Thanks.


I would refer to this guide here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club

He talks of adjusting overclocked timings to allow the card to downclock with an overclocked monitor.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> Do you guys use either the qnix or x-star monitor driver for this display?
> 
> Thanks
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *175pi*
> 
> Is there a monitor driver required for these at all? I plugged it in, set the resolution and OC with the NVidia control panel and haven't looked back.
Click to expand...

No I wouldn't recommend using the QNIX driver (Samsung PLS) vs 2795 (LG AH-IPS) different panels. And it should be noted in the OP as it is NOT mentioned in the Overclocking Guide that NCX recommends in the OP. We do recommend using the QNIX monitor driver (w/QNIX/XStar only) as many have seen better game recognition in Windows especially when using custom ICC profiles and/or w/Color Sustainer ...

Bottom line you don't need the monitor driver and I don't even know if there is one for the 2795 LG AH-IPS?
Closest one I can think of that "might?" work, would be the Cat2B LG S-IPS... Hope that makes sense









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> Do you guys run the overclock 24/7? Reason I ask is because my video cards never ramp down while the monitor is overclocked and doing basically nothing. Is there a way to make it ramp down when not doing intensive tasks? I turn off the overclock to do this but wondering if there is another way. Thanks.


Make sure your running the ToastyX patcher for your GPU seup ... links are in the OC guide ... OC guide link is in the OP and my sig


----------



## Gamdschiee

Hello guys, I want to buy the http://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XCrossover+2795QHD.TRS0&_nkw=Crossover+2795QHD&_sacat=0, but do you guys had/have any problems with this monitor. Do you think I can use this monitor 6 years or longer without going to broken etc.? I do not want to buy a bad monitor that will be broken after 1-2 years and the guarentee is only one year :s.


----------



## NadavCE

I've been running mine @90Hz for about 2 months now. Even if you're not doing intensive tasks, the 90Hz OC is very noticeable. Now, when I use 60Hz temouse cursor seems really jittery.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gamdschiee*
> 
> Hello guys, I want to buy the http://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XCrossover+2795QHD.TRS0&_nkw=Crossover+2795QHD&_sacat=0, but do you guys had/have any problems with this monitor. Do you think I can use this monitor 6 years or longer without going to broken etc.? I do not want to buy a bad monitor that will be broken after 1-2 years and the guarentee is only one year :s.


I haven't had any issues with it. I certainly don't know how long you could use it, though.


----------



## Vietorious

My 2795 arrived today. I got it on sale from ebay $269 no tax or shipping. How can I start to share you some specs and visual.


----------



## Mikey22

So I'm having an issue with my 2795qhd. I'm running a 1080p 22" as a secondary monitor and have a GTX 980. While I'm gaming on the 2795qhd, sometimes when I alt-tab to my secondary monitor or drag a window over to my secondary monitor, the 2795qhd will turn off and then turn back on after 2 seconds or so. I'm assuming it turns off because the LED on the bottom right changes. One time it did not turn back on and i had to restart my computer to get the video back.
Has anyone else experienced this issue? And is this an issue with the monitor, video card, or drivers?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## rissie

So I had a little bit of BLB and I decided it's time to do something about it... I used the disassembly guide for the QNIX 2710 (the basic construction is the same) and twisted the metal frame away from the panel. Fixed... so I'm satisfied that this is as good as can be.... no dead/stuck pixels...no BLB and 110Hz overclock. No way to do 120Hz (always some artifacts and if lowered the timings the monitor just flickers). I did notice something strange (I tried to reduce the timings for the 110Hz overclock and occasionally, like once every 2-3hrs, the screen will blank out for 1-2 secs in games which means certain death in multiplayer games). I've stuck with auto + 110Hz for now.


----------



## Gamdschiee

Is someone here that have this monitor longer than a few months? Because I want to be sure, that this monitor isn't a load of crap and won't be broken after a few month.


----------



## deepchunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gamdschiee*
> 
> Is someone here that have this monitor longer than a few months? Because I want to be sure, that this monitor isn't a load of crap and won't be broken after a few month.


This monitor has only been out for a few months, so no one can tell you that.


----------



## odin2free

Oh this looks very promising...
Again this is the second choice next to qnix...
Bezel is easily painted to a mate plasti dip...
That's what I have been doing to my tvs and my laptops....

Thank you for this thread and all the discussion still sifting and learning

Sent from my XT1528 using Tapatalk


----------



## geoffropuff

i was trying to mount the monitor on my desk and found that the vesa screw holes were pretty shallow. i didn't realize this until i had screwed one of the screws too tightly. now the threaded hole rotates with the screw when i try to unscrew it. does anyone have any tips for getting that screw out? i can't take it off the mount without unscrewing it, and it won't stay on the mount securely without putting washers under the screw head to close the gap.

otherwise, my monitor seems pretty great. i haven't tried to overclock it yet but i don't seem to have any dead pixels or overly strong backlight bleed. i haven't done a PWM test aside from looking at the screen through my phone's camera and didn't see any wavy pulsing lines.


----------



## RTK29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RTK29*
> 
> Just got my monitor from Greensum last night from the $269 pixel perfect sale. Went from Korea to Ohio in <2 days which was pretty impressive.
> 
> No dead pixels and not very much backlight bleed that I could see. I overclocked to 96Hz using a 24AWG cable from Monoprice and it seemed to be fine.
> 
> 
> 
> It was stable, and without any problems that I could see.
> 
> Then today while I was at work my wife messages me, says the monitor is broken, and sends me a picture of what it's doing.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know what might cause this? She says the screen would be normal one second and then suddenly like this. Is it the overclock, and if so why would it only appear today when I used it for several hours last night without problems?


As an update. I think I figured out a fix for this. I unchecked hardware acceleration in chrome and flash player and haven't had this happen since. I don't know if that was the problem, but it seems to have fixed it.

Now I have a new problem









In the process of trying to fix my old issue I uninstalled all AMD drivers and such, then reinstalled them. Now when I patch my drivers, make custom resolutions in CRU, and set them to that even after restarting CRU/my computer it doesn't seem to work. Even though the computer and programs running on it says that the monitor is running at 96Hz the UFO test still says 60. Pic included below as evidence. Anyone know what might cause this?


----------



## 175pi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoffropuff*
> 
> i was trying to mount the monitor on my desk and found that the vesa screw holes were pretty shallow. i didn't realize this until i had screwed one of the screws too tightly. now the threaded hole rotates with the screw when i try to unscrew it. does anyone have any tips for getting that screw out? i can't take it off the mount without unscrewing it, and it won't stay on the mount securely without putting washers under the screw head to close the gap.
> 
> otherwise, my monitor seems pretty great. i haven't tried to overclock it yet but i don't seem to have any dead pixels or overly strong backlight bleed. i haven't done a PWM test aside from looking at the screen through my phone's camera and didn't see any wavy pulsing lines.


I noticed how shallow they were too and used a couple of small washers to fill in the gap.
To get yours out, maybe as you turn (preferably with a magnetic tip driver) use something thin like an exacto-knife blade to pry at the same time.


----------



## s0lkim

Finally got my monitor setup and 110hz I couldn't get stable with standard timings but 96hz is perfect and good enough for my gaming needs! Awesome monitor so far.

I also found that myself and a few others had issues with the blurbusters page registering the correct speed, but I found it to be a browser problem. Try a couple of different browsers to see which one works.


----------



## RTK29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s0lkim*
> 
> I also found that myself and a few others had issues with the blurbusters page registering the correct speed, but I found it to be a browser problem. Try a couple of different browsers to see which one works.


Huh, your'e right. I just checked in IE and it's telling me the correct refresh rate.

Also I'd decrease the iso or shutter speed on your camera for the frame skipping test. It seems like you really want to try and get more than 4 blocks to be sure.


----------



## rissie

I don't know what I did but I couldn't get GPU scaling working suddenly - everything lower res would run in a box. I thought I borked my drivers so I uninstalled it completely, then followed up by installing the new catalyst 15.7.1 drivers... The moment I use CRU now, GPU scaling refuses to work anymore. Additionally, I've also lost overclocking headroom - it's a struggle to maintain 110Hz now (in fact with certain timings I could do 120 but with artifacts), whereas before it was stable.

Anyone have any ideas what could I do to get things back to the way it was?


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RTK29*
> 
> As an update. I think I figured out a fix for this. I unchecked hardware acceleration in chrome and flash player and haven't had this happen since. I don't know if that was the problem, but it seems to have fixed it.
> 
> Now I have a new problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the process of trying to fix my old issue I uninstalled all AMD drivers and such, then reinstalled them. Now when I patch my drivers, make custom resolutions in CRU, and set them to that even after restarting CRU/my computer it doesn't seem to work. Even though the computer and programs running on it says that the monitor is running at 96Hz the UFO test still says 60. Pic included below as evidence. Anyone know what might cause this?


Reboot windows then run your browser in full screen again. It happens to me occasionally as well. Not sure why that happens.

Edit: would like to know if you guys are able to change the resolution down and still be able to keep GPU scaling? (i.e. images appear across the whole panel and not as a box) Seems everytime I touch CRU now, it won't let me use GPU scaling with AMD CCC and my 6970. It's forced onto centered timings.


----------



## bezzell

Maybe the lack of a scaler in the unit is giving you problems. Not sure.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bezzell*
> 
> Maybe the lack of a scaler in the unit is giving you problems. Not sure.


The video card is supposed to be the scaler... the thing is, if I don't use CRU, it works... change it to 1920x1080 and it boots up and fills the whole panel. The moment CRU is launched, I'm having the issue of AMD CCC now forced to put things in "centered timings" i.e. a box in the middle of the screen. It's definitely a software problem... I'm just not sure what I did to trigger it and how to fix it


----------



## geoffropuff

i tried screwing
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *175pi*
> 
> I noticed how shallow they were too and used a couple of small washers to fill in the gap.
> To get yours out, maybe as you turn (preferably with a magnetic tip driver) use something thin like an exacto-knife blade to pry at the same time.


i am not quite sure how i got it to unscrew but i did. i got the washers on and made sure not to tighten it too much. i hope it doesn't give me too much trouble if i end up wanting to get it off the monitor stand at some point in the future.


----------



## magedoge

Hi guys,

Been watching these Korean monitors for a while now and I think that this one is the way to go at this time. Just wanted to ask that is the PWM dimming a real problem with these new monitors or is there some seller from which you can buy PWM free monitors? I don't know if I am affected by that but wouldn't want to use 300€ to find it out.


----------



## Demonz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magedoge*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Been watching these Korean monitors for a while now and I think that this one is the way to go at this time. Just wanted to ask that is the PWM dimming a real problem with these new monitors or is there some seller from which you can buy PWM free monitors? I don't know if I am affected by that but wouldn't want to use 300€ to find it out.


Green-Sum confirmed to me via message that 2795QHD that he sells is PWM / flicker free


----------



## s0lkim

Mine is also PWM free and I bought mine from bigclothcraft too. They always get back to you quickly via message and you can always double check the ad to make sure it says flicker free.


----------



## haru3173

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s0lkim*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got my monitor setup and 110hz I couldn't get stable with standard timings but 96hz is perfect and good enough for my gaming needs! Awesome monitor so far.
> 
> I also found that myself and a few others had issues with the blurbusters page registering the correct speed, but I found it to be a browser problem. Try a couple of different browsers to see which one works.


Try running reset-all.exe that came with cru then start from scratch( including the patcher) . That happened on mine too and never had the problem since


----------



## 175pi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demonz*
> 
> Green-Sum confirmed to me via message that 2795QHD that he sells is PWM / flicker free


I got mine from Green-Sum also and do not have PWM. I think he has a couple different "versions" of this though; I bought the $315 one and he also had a perfect pixel one on sale for $270ish but I'm guessing that one may have been internally a little different or else why charge less for something you say has been thoroughly checked out.


----------



## magedoge

I asked from Dream-Seller and Bigclothcraft about that PWM dimming. Lets see what they answer. Also tried to search this monitor from Green-Sum in ebay but didn't see it. However they had the 27qhd. What is the main difference between these two? Is this 27qhd the older model which doesn't overclock? Does someone else find this 2795qhd at Green-Sum or did I see right that they don't sell it now? Dream-Seller would ship for free so it would be the cheapest alternative but if I have to pay few extra euros to get really flicker free monitor I will get that.


----------



## Vietorious

So I got my monitor from green-sum. The Crossover 2795. My logo on the monitor is a face with a smirk. It doesn't say crossover like the box. My problem is there's 7 buttons on this monitor. But only 3 works, power, bright level up, bright level down. The rest of the 4 buttons seems to do nothing. Is this normal?


----------



## Bones28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magedoge*
> 
> I asked from Dream-Seller and Bigclothcraft about that PWM dimming. Lets see what they answer. Also tried to search this monitor from Green-Sum in ebay but didn't see it. However they had the 27qhd. What is the main difference between these two? Is this 27qhd the older model which doesn't overclock? Does someone else find this 2795qhd at Green-Sum or did I see right that they don't sell it now? Dream-Seller would ship for free so it would be the cheapest alternative but if I have to pay few extra euros to get really flicker free monitor I will get that.


I think Green-Sum still sell it and the link is below, however it very recently jumped up quite a bit from $269 US to $329US, I may get one but I will wait for the next sale if I do

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141740633783?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Does anyone know if one of the sellers cover return costs during the full warranty period and not just for D.O.A ?


----------



## Jaggar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bones28*
> 
> I think Green-Sum still sell it and the link is below, however it very recently jumped up quite a bit from $269 US to $329US, I may get one but I will wait for the next sale if I do
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141740633783?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> 
> Does anyone know if one of the sellers cover return costs during the full warranty period and not just for D.O.A ?


There has been strong evidence that the 2795QHD is a rebrand of the 27QHD *AH-IPS* panel which can be had from greensum. This is not to be confused with the glossy edition that uses an S-IPS panel.

NON pixel perfect http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-27QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-LG-IPS-2560X1440-QHD-Computor-Monitor-Matte-/141115538942?hash=item20db243dfe

Evidence : Page 26
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoffropuff*
> 
> Is this the version that you have: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-27QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-LG-IPS-2560X1440-QHD-Monitor-Matte-/141115538942?hash=item20db243dfe
> 
> I want to jump in but also want to make sure I'm getting an overclockable version.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NullPointer*
> 
> Yea that looks to be the right one. I bought mine from green sum, I included the link in my previous post on the last page, where I posted my results. It's in the quote. Compare the monitors just to make sure


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepchunk*
> 
> Yup that exact one from green-sum


----------



## GetTheMoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vietorious*
> 
> So I got my monitor from green-sum. The Crossover 2795. My logo on the monitor is a face with a smirk. It doesn't say crossover like the box. My problem is there's 7 buttons on this monitor. But only 3 works, power, bright level up, bright level down. The rest of the 4 buttons seems to do nothing. Is this normal?


Yes, I have exactly the same thing.


----------



## Bones28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaggar*
> 
> There has been strong evidence that the 2795QHD is a rebrand of the 27QHD *AH-IPS* panel which can be had from greensum. This is not to be confused with the glossy edition that uses an S-IPS panel.
> 
> NON pixel perfect http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-27QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-LG-IPS-2560X1440-QHD-Computor-Monitor-Matte-/141115538942?hash=item20db243dfe
> 
> Evidence : Page 26


It's a bit confusing all the different monitors for sale, more so now PWM has come into it lately, is that one I linked from Green-Sum the wrong Monitor to buy and the one you linked the correct one ?

Edit* I ask as the one I linked was recently easily the cheapest one to buy in Australia with that $269 sale and free postage and had I not missed it I likely would have bought one


----------



## Vietorious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetTheMoney*
> 
> Yes, I have exactly the same thing.


Is that normal? This monitor has no presets or adjustment?

Also do you have a Displayport on yours? My box says yes, but my monitor doesn't. Only DVI


----------



## 175pi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vietorious*
> 
> Is that normal? This monitor has no presets or adjustment?
> 
> Also do you have a Displayport on yours? My box says yes, but my monitor doesn't. Only DVI


My box says both HDMI and Display Port on it but only has DVI.
I also have 7 buttons but only 3 do anything just like the other poster.


----------



## Vietorious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *175pi*
> 
> My box says both HDMI and Display Port on it but only has DVI.
> I also have 7 buttons but only 3 do anything just like the other poster.


Alright! I guess this is normal. Can't complain for only $269.
I OC'd mine to 96hz. You can tell big difference in the background when you're moving your cameras in-game. Very smooth. I wonder what's 144hz like.


----------



## 175pi

So far I've played some battlefield 4 and diablo 3 with the monitor. What are some other showcase games this monitor makes gorgeous that you guys are playing ?

Sent from my SM-T230NU using Tapatalk


----------



## Jaggar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vietorious*
> 
> Alright! I guess this is normal. Can't complain for only $269.
> I OC'd mine to 96hz. You can tell big difference in the background when you're moving your cameras in-game. Very smooth. I wonder what's 144hz like.


The higher the frequency you go, the less and less difference it makes. With all the (the human eye cannot see more than "insert number here" ) quotes, theres still is a cap to how fast we can actually see and interpret a new frame. Problem is, no one human is just like another but just like all other studies there is a standard deviation. But how do we go about making a proper scientific approach to this?

Every other decade or so there is a new scientific study that posts results in one form or another saying how fast the human eye can perceive an image. With newer technologies I assume we get better estimates so long as the approach is solid and makes sense. For example, according to this MIT study http://news.mit.edu/2014/in-the-blink-of-an-eye-0116 the AVERAGE human can perceive an image consistently at around 13ms or 76.9 HZ... If this is true than there must be a standard deviation from 13ms. Whos so say what that is but lets say you lucked out, and inherited that amazing gene that allows you perceive an image in 8ms.. That comes out to be 125hz.

Once again this study may not represent the entire world accurately, but its in the ball park. Also, 144hz, or 6.94ms is often faster than ability for the pixels to change color. 2ms grey to grey isnt a real world representation of how fast the pixels can change color.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *175pi*
> 
> So far I've played some battlefield 4 and diablo 3 with the monitor. What are some other showcase games this monitor makes gorgeous that you guys are playing ?
> 
> Sent from my SM-T230NU using Tapatalk


Personally, of the games I've played, the ones that look best on this monitor are:

* Bioshock Infinite.
* Tomb Raider (even though I can only run it at medium-low settings).
* Just Cause 2.
* Borderlands 2.
* Donkey Kong Country Returns, emulated @1440p.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vietorious*
> 
> Is that normal? This monitor has no presets or adjustment?
> 
> Also do you have a Displayport on yours? My box says yes, but my monitor doesn't. Only DVI


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *175pi*
> 
> My box says both HDMI and Display Port on it but only has DVI.
> I also have 7 buttons but only 3 do anything just like the other poster.


This is an OC monitor, no addon board, so no OSD, no presets, no color control on the monitor. Also, they never claimed this monitor had DP or HDMI on the listings, they very explicitly say that it is DVI-D only.

The addon board handles OSD and monitor presets, and handles signal processing for multi-input monitors. WIthout that board there is nothing to slow down the signal between the graphics card and the panel, hence it being overclockable. Pretty much all overclockable monitors will be like this, no OSD, no multi-inputs, most buttons on the monitor doing nothing. You control colors from your GPUs control panel.


----------



## magedoge

Ok so now I got an answer from bigclothcraft which says that their monitor has backlight dimming and flicker-free function. Does this mean that it uses PWM even though they say it is flicker free? Also got an answer to their perfect pixel standards if someone else is also interested. So normal monitor can have up to 5 dead pixels, perfect pixel can have 0-2 dead pixels and ultimate perfect has no dead pixels at all.


----------



## Mantis0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peterke1337*
> 
> Yea keep me up to date, customs can add like 70-100 euros here in the Netherlands.. Next time i see a QNIX or Crossover on sale ill probally get one, was just too late now


Here is the update.

Monitor arrived today. green-sum marked the package with 72$. To my surprise that worked. Only had to play ~25€ for fees. With 300$ it would have been ~100€.

Shipping was ridiculous fast. They sent it on Thursday and it arrived today. Amazon.de is slower than that sometimes.

Did not detect any dead pixel. Backlight bleed seems fine, from what I can tell.

I tried the simple test from here. Did not notice PWM.


----------



## Mantis0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> To clear up the confusion arising, I want to explain a few things:
> 
> 1) *PWM* (*P*ulse *W*idth *M*odulation) dimming is a technique to lower the brightness of a monitor by rapidly turning the backlight on and off. This is why PWM dimming is more noticeable on lower brightness settings- the backlight is off more than it is on. For further explanation, read this page by TFTCentral.
> 
> 2) The Blurbusters PWM test is meant to be used with your eyesight, not a camera. *Do not use it as a metric to check for PWM dimming.*
> 
> 3) To test for PWM dimming, follow these instructions:
> 1. Set your monitor to the brightness and refresh rate you want to test.
> 2. Download this image, and display it fullscreen.
> 3. Set your camera to a shutter speed between 1/2 a second and 1/25 of a second. I used 1/10 of a second.
> 4. Hold the camera at a distance of about two feet from the monitor, and perpendicular to the ground:
> 
> 
> Make sure that the line is in focus and clearly visible.
> 5. While moving the camera sideways, press the shutter button.
> 
> If the thick line you captured is solid, your monitor does not use PWM dimming. If it looks anything like this:
> 
> 
> 
> the monitor does use PWM.
> 
> These instructions were taken from TFTCentral's article about PWM dimming, which can be visited here.


Made some pictures according to this.



http://imgur.com/6WlPc


----------



## Demonz

Hi All,

My Monitor was delivered today.

I purchased from Green-Sum, I have no black light bleed, but had 1 (red) dead/stuck pixel on the screen.

I ran this tool: http://www.jscreenfix.com/ for about 45 mins and the dead/stuck pixel has now gone!!

The monitor does show us as "27QHD" within Nvidia Control Panel not sure why:


Running comfortably at 96Hz not going to bother going any higher!

The box came wrapped in bubble wrap, and i had no exterior damage to the packaging.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mantis0*
> 
> Made some pictures according to this.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/6WlPc


Your photos are very blurry... Could you try taking them again, in focus?


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Your photos are very blurry... Could you try taking them again, in focus?


Uhh.. the instructions say to use low shutter speed while moving the camera.. How can you have it in focus like that? Most cameras don't have manual focus.


----------



## ERU69er

My Monitor was delivered (to the UK) in about 5 working days overall. The main delay was Parcel Force, although you can speed them up a bit with a telephone call to pay import charges (£63.55). The box came wrapped in bubble wrap, and I had no exterior damage to the packaging.

I purchased from eBay seller: Dream-seller for £202.90 - with a 1 year warranty.

Colour banding seems good. I've check via this simple gradient test: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/gradient.php. As I understand it, all monitors display very slight, subtle banding, but the worst offenders will appear blocky, and immediately recognizable. Mine is definitely not blocky in any way.

I have no black light bleed.

No dead pixels, although I've heard that this tool: www.jscreenfix.com can get rid of some, if needed. I used this to test: http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php

The monitor build quality is best classed as 'ok' or 'acceptable', whilst the stand is rubbish and very wobbly if it gets knocked. Moreover, the clips at the top of my screen have somehow warped (under heat pressure?). I had considered returning it for this, but I otherwise seem to have a decent copy and TBH I'm not bothered.

To overclock, I used ATI Pixel Clock Patcher (ToastyX) v1.3.4 to patch my drivers and Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) v1.2.1 to 'only' change the refresh rate. It's now running comfortably at 96Hz, which is confirmed by the www.testufo.com overclocking test. I quickly tried to jump to 120Hz but get dotted artefacts on the left of the screen.



I also bought this for £8 - DVI-D 24+1 Dual Link Male to Male Digital Video Cable Gold Plated with Ferrite Core: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00OZHGVSY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00


----------



## Mantis0

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Your photos are very blurry... Could you try taking them again, in focus?


Tried. But not getting any better. Still blurry. Sorry.


----------



## lester007

i just recieved my pixel perfect monitor from greemsum today, got one dead pixel on middle top of the monitor no backlight bleed noticeable.
package is perfectly fine 2layered bubblewrap.

i have not tried overclocking it yet, Im using DVI supplied by the box.
Anyone know how to remove the bottom stand? It is very flimsy to my liking and i want to use a vesa mount.

I never experience IPS display before as my main display except for my acer laptop and its very good imo!


----------



## deepchunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lester007*
> 
> i just recieved my pixel perfect monitor from greemsum today, got one dead pixel on middle top of the monitor no backlight bleed noticeable.
> package is perfectly fine 2layered bubblewrap.
> 
> i have not tried overclocking it yet, Im using DVI supplied by the box.
> Anyone know how to remove the bottom stand? It is very flimsy to my liking and i want to use a vesa mount.
> 
> I never experience IPS display before as my main display except for my acer laptop and its very good imo!






A warning: It takes more force to remove the bezel than you'd expect.


----------



## lester007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepchunk*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A warning: It takes more force to remove the bezel than you'd expect.


thanks!


----------



## geoffropuff

i overclocked my monitor yesterday and was only able to get 96hz stable. at 110hz, the screen flickers and looks kinda fuzzy and flickery. i wanted to see what a higher overclock would look like but i guess it won't happen for me. oh well. it's a beautiful monitor.

oh, and when i took it apart, i saw an lg sticker on the back of the panel. couldn't see it well so i couldn't get the lg model, if it was even on there.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lester007*
> 
> i just recieved my pixel perfect monitor from greemsum today, got one dead pixel on middle top of the monitor no backlight bleed noticeable.
> package is perfectly fine 2layered bubblewrap.
> 
> i have not tried overclocking it yet, Im using DVI supplied by the box.
> Anyone know how to remove the bottom stand? It is very flimsy to my liking and i want to use a vesa mount.
> 
> I never experience IPS display before as my main display except for my acer laptop and its very good imo!


Dead pixel or stuck pixel? Stuck can be fixed.


----------



## lester007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Dead pixel or stuck pixel? Stuck can be fixed.


its a dark pixel, i dunno if that is a dead or stuck or every test remains black pixel


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lester007*
> 
> its a dark pixel, i dunno if that is a dead or stuck or every test remains black pixel


Ah, yeah, if its dark its dead, not stuck. How noticeable is it? The fact that you got a dead pixel on a perfect pixel model bothers me.


----------



## lester007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Ah, yeah, if its dark its dead, not stuck. How noticeable is it? The fact that you got a dead pixel on a perfect pixel model bothers me.


not that noticible when im in normal distance like 2 feet away but if i look very closely i will see it. It does not bother me that much i guess its alright.


----------



## rkl1985

Well my second shot at this monitor will arrive tomorrow, just hoping for few or no dead pixels and a 96hz overclock with no pwm.... No repeats my unusable first one which also had a "gappy" bezel, power cord that didnt fit power brick and no screw for stand base.... Lol


----------



## Bones28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Ah, yeah, if its dark its dead, not stuck. How noticeable is it? The fact that you got a dead pixel on a perfect pixel model bothers me.


You have the buy the next one up from Perfect Pixel to have 0 dead Pixels allowed, 'Ultimate Perfect Pixel' is the name they go under

I messaged Green-Sum this morning about PWM and how many dead pixels in the perfect pixel policy they have, also if they will have another sale soon as the monitors were $269 recently, he/she said "flicker-free" (no PWM) and up to 2 dead pixels allowed and lastly "no telling about next sale"

I think I will wait to see if they have another sale and if it takes too long, I may use the 'Best offer' and make an offer to bigclothcraft for an 'Ultimate Perfect Pixel' Monitor as the price between the two will be less without the sale.

With the sale from Green-Sum it's worth taking the risk of a couple dead pixels as the price difference is substantial ( $375 AUD for Perfect Pixel when on sale at Green-Sum v $505 AUD for Ultimate Perfect Pixel from bigclothcraft )


----------



## Jaggar

Since when did perfect mean mild discrepancies are acceptable.. Ultimate perfect? Really?...


----------



## Bones28

I didn't say I agreed with it as perfect to me means just that, nothing wrong









I was just saying what you have to buy to be 100% certain that you will end up with a no dead pixel monitor as they would have to take a monitor back if it had one


----------



## Mantis0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magedoge*
> 
> I asked from Dream-Seller and Bigclothcraft about that PWM dimming. Lets see what they answer. Also tried to search this monitor from Green-Sum in ebay but didn't see it. However they had the 27qhd. What is the main difference between these two? Is this 27qhd the older model which doesn't overclock? Does someone else find this 2795qhd at Green-Sum or did I see right that they don't sell it now? Dream-Seller would ship for free so it would be the cheapest alternative but if I have to pay few extra euros to get really flicker free monitor I will get that.


If green-sum does not ship to your country you will not see their offer. At least that's how it works for me. You can only use a direct link. This one was on sale for 269$. Price went up again. You can contact them and ask them about shipping to your destination if it is not covered by the ebay offer.


----------



## BusterOddo

Well I got mine in yesterday from the pixel perfect $279.00 sale, and am very pleased. 0 dead pixels, no backlight bleed, and 96 hz out of the box. My only real complaint is the stand which is wobbly, but once you get it set it does stay where you put it. Played some BF4 and Withcher 3 on it, and am very impressed with the picture quality. Its like I am seeing details in both games that I just didn't see before with my 1080P tv.


----------



## bach99

Hello. Just got mine. Shipping was very fast...Shipped Monday, received today on Tuesday. At first boot up, it was a amazing experience. This is a lot lighter than the Achieva Shimian QH270 that I got not too long ago. Also, power brick is much lighter. The box says my model is 2795QHD, the back of the monitor also shows 2795QHD. Of course, the Nvidia Control Panel shows the monitor as being a 27QHD. I will try to overclock the monitor. I have a very slight bezel pop up at the bottom middle. I received the devil logo as well, not the Crossover one. Also bought the Pixel-Perfect version, received one stuck pixel on upper left quadrant That I tried to fix with JScreenFix for like ten minutes. Didn't work, so will update when I try it again. Haven't yet OC'd the panel, but will try 96hz and only 96hz. Later on I will upload pictures and do the LED PWN test. As far I can see so far, I don't notice any sort of flickering. So there's that. Thanks for introducing this monitor to us!

Does anyone know how long I should run JScreenFix for? I'm going to try 20 minutes to see if that helps.


----------



## bach99

Here are some photos that I took to test both skipped frames AND PWM LED Dimming. Both was shot on a Nikon D90 with 5.6f aperture, 250 ISO and 1/5 shutter speed. Both of these appear to confirm the fact that the 2795QHD does not either skip frames nor have PWM LED Dimming.


----------



## alif1994

Hi, I just skimmed through the thread and was wondering if this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixcel-CROSSOVER-27QHD-IPS-LED-27-QHD-2560X1440-Monitor-Tempered-Glass-/121736725444?hash=item1c581303c4

is the same thing as 2795QHD? It is probably not since the price is so low compared to the other crossover monitors that has been posted in this thread.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alif1994*
> 
> Hi, I just skimmed through the thread and was wondering if this
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixcel-CROSSOVER-27QHD-IPS-LED-27-QHD-2560X1440-Monitor-Tempered-Glass-/121736725444?hash=item1c581303c4
> 
> is the same thing as 2795QHD? It is probably not since the price is so low compared to the other crossover monitors that has been posted in this thread.


It is really cheap! Looks like it's the glossy version. Not sure if it's overclockable (a few earlier said it was). The 2795 is Matt finished. If it's overclockable and you don't mind a glossy finish, it looks like a great buy, too









Edit: Just noticed it doesn't say flicker-free... maybe check with Green-sum if there is PWM dimming involved?


----------



## 175pi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alif1994*
> 
> Hi, I just skimmed through the thread and was wondering if this
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixcel-CROSSOVER-27QHD-IPS-LED-27-QHD-2560X1440-Monitor-Tempered-Glass-/121736725444?hash=item1c581303c4
> 
> is the same thing as 2795QHD? It is probably not since the price is so low compared to the other crossover monitors that has been posted in this thread.


This isn't the same. I bought mine from Green-Sum and he used different images. This one isn't listed as the 2795, this one shows it has speakers built in which mine does not, doesn't list anything about being flicker free, etc. I wouldn't take the chance and expect it to be the same thing or you'll be disappointed.


----------



## alsius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bach99*
> 
> Does anyone know how long I should run JScreenFix for? I'm going to try 20 minutes to see if that helps.


did you try tapping on it? i got mine yesterday and same thing.. had one stuck/dead(?) pixel (it was gray) jscreenfix didnt do anything but i tapped on it and it started working just fine.


----------



## Jaggar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alif1994*
> 
> Hi, I just skimmed through the thread and was wondering if this
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixcel-CROSSOVER-27QHD-IPS-LED-27-QHD-2560X1440-Monitor-Tempered-Glass-/121736725444?hash=item1c581303c4
> 
> is the same thing as 2795QHD? It is probably not since the price is so low compared to the other crossover monitors that has been posted in this thread.


No, that is an S-IPS panel on the glossy 27QHD. However there is evidence the matte 27QHD with AH-IPS panel is the same as the 2795QHD as reported by some users. HERE

However most people are getting the 2795QHD, as well as myself so this version is at least confirmed.

Speaking of, I just got my own 2795QHD last night during the pixel perfect sale. It was indeed pixel perfect. I almost got super sad when I first turned it on because the brightness was turned all the way down and I thought my monitor had a dead backlight board... Then I pressed the increase brightness button. I did get some minor bezel bow on the bottom where the face is. Some minor backlight bleed in the bottom corners but I can't even see it when I am not testing for it. Overclocked straight to 96HZ no problem, haven't tried to go any higher. No dropped frames. The only downside I see wit this monitor is the cheap stand. It likes to tilt left and right and I had to readjust it a few times. I may end up VESA mounting it. Overall, best money I've ever spent on a monitor as of this moment.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## alsius

i cant adjust the backlight on mine. its set to blindingly bright apparently and if i press the "BL" up and down buttons, the light flashes, but it does nothing. is there any trick to this that im just missing?


----------



## stenve

I received mine yesterday and looks like it has some kind of issue. Text and imagesare distorted and pixelated. Can't read anything. Image gets clearer on lower resolutions.

Have tried 3 different pcs, 3 cables, driver updates. And I'm currently running a dell 2711 and overlord x270oc perfectly fine at 2560x1440

Anyone else had this issue?

Green-sum requested a video of the issue so they can refer it to the manufacturer.


----------



## lester007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stenve*
> 
> I received mine yesterday and looks like it has some kind of issue. Text and imagesare distorted and pixelated. Can't read anything. Image gets clearer on lower resolutions.
> 
> Have tried 3 different pcs, 3 cables, driver updates. And I'm currently running a dell 2711 and overlord x270oc perfectly fine at 2560x1440
> 
> Anyone else had this issue?
> 
> Green-sum requested a video of the issue so they can refer it to the manufacturer.


i havent got that issue, have you tried other dvi cables aside from the box supplied?


----------



## stenve

Yep, 3 different cables all tested working on other monitors. One of the test cables is happily running my overlord at 96hz.

I've never seen an issue like this and haven't been able to find any info on it.

Guess I just got unlucky


----------



## lester007

well that sucks, yeah contact the seller for replacement


----------



## Kold

Anyone have opinions on which seller is the best option? Also, any opinions on the Ultimate versions? My *main goal* is to get one with no BLB. Thanks!


----------



## Bones28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Anyone have opinions on which seller is the best option? Also, any opinions on the Ultimate versions? My *main goal* is to get one with no BLB. Thanks!


I haven't bought one yet as I am waiting to see if Green-Sum will have another sale , but a few things I have noticed are as follows...

Look for free return shipping on DOA as some do advertise this, look at the pixel policy they have as they are not all equal, for example one seller ( dream-seller ) doesn't count dead pixels as a reason to return monitors you don't pay extra for for better pixel policy, they also have a higher number allowed under Perfect pixel with 3, others have less dead pixels allowed in both counts like bigclothcraft, lovelypeople, excellentcastle and those 3 all pay for return shipping for DOA

I don't see free DOA return shipping with Green-Sum advertised, but when on special the price is too good to pass up, but I will likely buy from one of bigclothcraft, lovelypeople, excellentcastle if Green-Sum don't have a special in the next week or so

As far as BLB, it's just luck, I don't think I have seen pay extra for better BLB policy









Edit* With Ultimate version, the three I listed have similar prices ( $504-$505 AUD ), but bigclothcraft has 'Best offer' available so that is an option


----------



## rissie

FWIW, I do think the BLB is relatively easy to fix (versus dead or stuck pixels). I overdid mine a bit and now the plastic bezel doesn't rest on the panel on the parts that I had BLB - but you don't notice this in use. After the fix, I think it has "less" BLB than my older Dell 2740L which is beside it now. Pretty stoked with this monitor, still.


----------



## Wattser93

Is the best place to get these from Green-Sum's eBay page?

A 980 should have no problem pushing 1440P at ~100 Hz for most games, right?


----------



## 175pi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wattser93*
> 
> Is the best place to get these from Green-Sum's eBay page?
> 
> A 980 should have no problem pushing 1440P at ~100 Hz for most games, right?


I've got a 970 and hit 50-70 for BF4 and well over 100 on Diablo 3, so a 980 should be fine.


----------



## Wattser93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *175pi*
> 
> I've got a 970 and hit 50-70 for BF4 and well over 100 on Diablo 3, so a 980 should be fine.


That's plenty playable.

A 980 should be plenty then. Thanks.


----------



## Mantis0

I noticed that Aero Peek with my Windows 7 is not working anymore. Could this be linked with OCing the monitor?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stenve*
> 
> I received mine yesterday and looks like it has some kind of issue. Text and imagesare distorted and pixelated. Can't read anything. Image gets clearer on lower resolutions.
> 
> Have tried 3 different pcs, 3 cables, driver updates. And I'm currently running a dell 2711 and overlord x270oc perfectly fine at 2560x1440
> 
> Anyone else had this issue?
> 
> Green-sum requested a video of the issue so they can refer it to the manufacturer.


Last ditch check, but sometimes I'll get that odd looking text with DSR enabled in the NVCP ... make sure it is disabled for troubleshooting purposes









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bones28*
> 
> I haven't bought one yet as I am waiting to see if Green-Sum will have another sale , but a few things I have noticed are as follows...
> 
> Look for free return shipping on DOA as some do advertise this, look at the pixel policy they have as they are not all equal, for example one seller ( dream-seller ) doesn't count dead pixels as a reason to return monitors you don't pay extra for for better pixel policy, they also have a higher number allowed under Perfect pixel with 3, others have less dead pixels allowed in both counts like bigclothcraft, lovelypeople, excellentcastle and those 3 all pay for return shipping for DOA
> 
> I don't see free DOA return shipping with Green-Sum advertised, but when on special the price is too good to pass up, but I will likely buy from one of bigclothcraft, lovelypeople, excellentcastle if Green-Sum don't have a special in the next week or so ... As far as BLB, it's just luck, I don't think I have seen pay extra for better BLB policy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit* With Ultimate version, the three I listed have similar prices ( $504-$505 AUD ), but bigclothcraft has 'Best offer' available so that is an option
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wattser93*
> 
> Is the best place to get these from Green-Sum's eBay page?
> 
> A 980 should have no problem pushing 1440P at ~100 Hz for most games, right?
Click to expand...

Nice post Bones ... +R









I like green-sum but I wouldn't hesitate to go with bigclothcraft or excellentcastle drawing from experience in the QNIX/XStar purchases ... don't know much about the lovelypeople ...









You'll be good w/980! ... and it hasn't been mentioned in this thread yet, but for years we have seen a benefit to OC'd monitors even when the FPS isn't as high or matching your refresh rate (monitor overclock) say 80fps avg and a 120Hz overclock









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mantis0*
> 
> I noticed that Aero Peek with my Windows 7 is not working anymore. Could this be linked with OCing the monitor?


This happens to me occasionally in NVCP when it resets your "True Color 32bit" back to "High Color 16bit" ... check your settings and make sure your setting under custom profiles


----------



## Mantis0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> This happens to me occasionally in NVCP when it resets your "True Color 32bit" back to "High Color 16bit" ... check your settings and make sure your setting under custom profiles


Thanks. That did the trick.


----------



## Kold

Edit for brain fart. I forgot I already asked in here, lol. I'm just going to message one of thesellers and ask for one with no BLB.

I'm looking at getting a new monitor as well. My older XStar is great, but I am wanting to try a new type of panel technology.

So do we know for sure if this is flicker free sill or is it sill up in the air?

If it isn't flicker free anymore, what do you guys think of this monitor here.. It supposedly does 75hz right off the bat. My only concerns are is it flicker free and would going from 2560x1440 down to 2560x1080 be quite noticeable?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=24-025-112


----------



## kahluacarl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoffropuff*
> 
> i overclocked my monitor yesterday and was only able to get 96hz stable. at 110hz, the screen flickers and looks kinda fuzzy and flickery. i wanted to see what a higher overclock would look like but i guess it won't happen for me. oh well. it's a beautiful monitor.
> 
> oh, and when i took it apart, i saw an lg sticker on the back of the panel. couldn't see it well so i couldn't get the lg model, if it was even on there.


Same on my side-- I can OC to 96hz no problem. 110hz results in flickering and artifacts. I may play around with the settings a bit more to see if I can get it any higher, but 96hz is solid. The monitor is very nice.


----------



## kachetwenty

Hey guys I was looking into getting a korean monitor.

Is this better than the Qnix 2710?

Which version should I get the 2795 qhd or the 27qhd? (I want to overclock it)

Any link to the correct monitor?


----------



## Mantis0

Afaik the Qnix uses worse panels now than it did before. OCing should still be possible. But what I took out of the discussion when I did my research on buying, was that the 2795 is the monitor to go now.

"Crossover 2795QHD" is the one you should look for.


----------



## magedoge

How fast have green-sum and dream-seller answered to your questions? It's been now almost a week and no answers, is this normal? Bigclothcraft answered immediately the next morning but buying this monitor from them would be little more expensive since they don't offer free shipping like dream-seller does. Has bigclothcraft had any sales in the past? If they lowered the price a bit it would be same to buy this from them.


----------



## Mantis0

Received my answers within 24h during the week.


----------



## deepchunk

Either the matte AH IPS 27QHD or the 2795QHD are the monitors to buy.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Edit for brain fart. I forgot I already asked in here, lol. I'm just going to message one of thesellers and ask for one with no BLB.
> 
> I'm looking at getting a new monitor as well. My older XStar is great, but I am wanting to try a new type of panel technology.
> 
> So do we know for sure if this is flicker free sill or is it sill up in the air?
> 
> If it isn't flicker free anymore, what do you guys think of this monitor here.. It supposedly does 75hz right off the bat. My only concerns are is it flicker free and would going from 2560x1440 down to 2560x1080 be quite noticeable?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=24-025-112


As far as we can tell the 2795 is still flicker free. There was talk of there maybe being flicker in some newer ones but the only reports of that seem to stem from ONE guy on reddit, and I don't think it had any evidence to backup the claim.

I think with that superwide monitor the biggest thing will be the change in size of the monitor. The 29" 2560x1080 superwides are about the same screen height as a 24" monitor, so you will have less vertical real estate than a 27" monitor, not only in the resolution but in physical size. I believe the 34" 3440x1440 superwides are the same height as a normal 27" monitor however.


----------



## Rhys93B

Hello everyone, I must have read hundreds of posts over the past few hours on this forum and while my knowledge regarding 'Korean monitors' has improved greatly, I'm still not 100% confident in choosing which specific Ebay sale to purchase. It seems there are some sellers who sell monitors which perform differently to others, such as better overclocking ability etc?

If someone could kindly link me to the page of the best options available I'd be very grateful. I narrowed it down to this particular seller/monitor but then i noticed it lists a max Hz of 95 when I've seen people recently purchase ones capable of pushing 110?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/321719207934?hash=item4ae7f587fe


----------



## magedoge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepchunk*
> 
> Either the matte AH IPS 27QHD or the 2795QHD are the monitors to buy.


So is there any difference between 27QHD AH-IPS Matte and 2795QHD? Both are overclockable and have the same panel? That 27QHD would be a lot cheaper from green-sum than any 2795QHD at the moment. Need to ask Green-Sum again that do they ship to Finland because they haven't answered my last question.


----------



## bach99

The 27QHD regular is the locked version, which is generally why it is cheaper. You could try OC it, but it is not built for overclocking like the 2795QHD of which the 95 in the name stands for the minimum guaranteed overclocked refresh rate.
Quote:


> i noticed it lists a max Hz of 95 when I've seen people recently purchase ones capable of pushing 110


It's really a monitor lottery. You may or may not get a monitor that can overclock to 110hz. However, 95hz is virtually guaranteed, hence the name 27*95*QHD. Hope this helps!


----------



## geoffropuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bach99*
> 
> The 27QHD regular is the locked version, which is generally why it is cheaper. You could try OC it, but it is not built for overclocking like the 2795QHD of which the 95 in the name stands for the minimum guaranteed overclocked refresh rate.
> It's really a monitor lottery. You may or may not get a monitor that can overclock to 110hz. However, 95hz is virtually guaranteed, hence the name 27*95*QHD. Hope this helps!


not quite sure that's true, since both panels have the same model number that end in 2795. there's a possibility that they just rebranded the 27qhd to something different to make a little more cash off of it. i forgot to look if the info panel on the back of mine was just a sticker put over the original info panel but now it's covered by a vesa mount.


----------



## BadRobot

The 27QHD
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoffropuff*
> 
> not quite sure that's true, since both panels have the same model number that end in 2795. there's a possibility that they just rebranded the 27qhd to something different to make a little more cash off of it. i forgot to look if the info panel on the back of mine was just a sticker put over the original info panel but now it's covered by a vesa mount.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bach99*
> 
> The 27QHD regular is the locked version, which is generally why it is cheaper. You could try OC it, but it is not built for overclocking like the 2795QHD of which the 95 in the name stands for the minimum guaranteed overclocked refresh rate.
> It's really a monitor lottery. You may or may not get a monitor that can overclock to 110hz. However, 95hz is virtually guaranteed, hence the name 27*95*QHD. Hope this helps!


I've searched the thread and the 27QHD *AH-IPS* model is the same as the 2795 *AH-IPS* model. There is a 27QHD that has an S-IPS model. Link to post. As far as I can tell from the comments, the AH-IPS models aren't that different. I want the first post to include conclusive evidence.

2 weeks ago, people started saying the 2795 had PWM dimming yet recent posts have none. First post should maybe include a Bought model x or y, PWM dimming yes/no, Max stable OC xxHz. That'd make it a lot clearer.


----------



## 175pi

Curious what setting I might be missing.
I had my monitor overclocked but it seems to have reset to 60 and the customize button is greyed out.
I have a triple monitor mount with it in the middle and an old 17" Samsung on the left and 19" hanspree on the right. The Crossover is plugged into the GTX 970 via the DVI-D plug, the 17" via the other DVI port and the 19" is using a DVI to display port converter (had it from when I used triple monitors on an AMD 270).

I know the option greyed out when I started using the converter, but is there any way to get my 96hz overclock back without removing it?
I can remove the monitor but the way I see it, I have it might as well use it LOL


----------



## Jaggar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *175pi*
> 
> Curious what setting I might be missing.
> I had my monitor overclocked but it seems to have reset to 60 and the customize button is greyed out.
> I have a triple monitor mount with it in the middle and an old 17" Samsung on the left and 19" hanspree on the right. The Crossover is plugged into the GTX 970 via the DVI-D plug, the 17" via the other DVI port and the 19" is using a DVI to display port converter (had it from when I used triple monitors on an AMD 270).
> 
> I know the option greyed out when I started using the converter, but is there any way to get my 96hz overclock back without removing it?
> I can remove the monitor but the way I see it, I have it might as well use it LOL


I remember someone mentioning that they also had more than 1 monitor and needed to have the 2795QHD set at the primary monitor in order to overclock it.


----------



## geoffropuff

after about a week or so of using my monitor, a weird bright spot has developed. you can't really see it as well on darker screens as you can on bright, especially white. i've attached a picture so you can see what it looks like. i'm not sure if green-sum takes returns for this type of screen defect. it's definitely bigger than a few pixels as it's easily seen with the naked eye. has anyone else run into this type of problem?


----------



## 175pi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaggar*
> 
> I remember someone mentioning that they also had more than 1 monitor and needed to have the 2795QHD set at the primary monitor in order to overclock it.


Ok, not sure how to do that. When it was just the Crossover and Samsung, both using DVI, it allowed me to set either as primary. If I remember right (at work now) it was greyed out after plugging in the display port monitor. I'll have to look further into that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaggar*
> 
> I remember someone mentioning that they also had more than 1 monitor and needed to have the 2795QHD set at the primary monitor in order to overclock it.


Looks like when I use the display port adapter it wants to make that monitor #1 and I can't change the Crossover to that spot. When I try to plug the Crossover in via that display port adapter it goes haywire until I use the regular DVI port on the card. So it looks like I have 2 options; either use only 2 monitors and OC the monitor or go with 3 monitors and restrict myself to 60hz.


----------



## weaveR

Has anyone got the 2795 QHD matte screen? If so could you take some high resolution pictures of the screen I want a proper look at it.


----------



## karkee

I am about to order this monitor, I want a matte one.

Can anyone tell me if this is the right one and a good seller?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/321719207934?hash=item4ae7f587fe#shpCntId

Thanks


----------



## deepchunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karkee*
> 
> I am about to order this monitor, I want a matte one.
> 
> Can anyone tell me if this is the right one and a good seller?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/321719207934?hash=item4ae7f587fe#shpCntId
> 
> Thanks


yeah you're good


----------



## karkee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deepchunk*
> 
> yeah you're good


Ok thanks will be ordering that one, just need to find a good monitor arm now









I tried the acer predator and im tired of the return back and forth before I get a decent one so... my older qnix stil running well so might aswell get a korean (what have monitor days come to







)


----------



## weaveR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karkee*
> 
> I am about to order this monitor, I want a matte one.
> 
> Can anyone tell me if this is the right one and a good seller?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/321719207934?hash=item4ae7f587fe#shpCntId
> 
> Thanks


Green-sum sells his version of the screen for cheaper and claims 100 hertz rather than just 95 but unsure if there's any warranty could someone confirm if green-sum has any kind of warranty?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-IPS-Monitor-Matte-/141740633783?


----------



## lester007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weaveR*
> 
> Has anyone got the 2795 QHD matte screen? If so could you take some high resolution pictures of the screen I want a proper look at it.


i tried to take pictures of mine, it is matte but feels more semi matte to me. hope this help for you
1st one is normal use 2nd is monitor turned off and 3rd is with flash monitor turned off


----------



## BadRobot

Release my monitor to me, Airport Customs! You've had it since thursday afternoon >







What is this?!

(Korean time)
Aug 31, 2015 04:26 pm Handed over to CustomsKorea Post (NL AM SA)
Aug 28, 2015 12:58 pm Handed over to CustomsKorea Post (NL AM SA)
Aug 28, 2015 12:57 pm Arrival at inward office of exchange Korea Post (NL AM SA)


----------



## geoffropuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoffropuff*
> 
> after about a week or so of using my monitor, a weird bright spot has developed. you can't really see it as well on darker screens as you can on bright, especially white. i've attached a picture so you can see what it looks like. i'm not sure if green-sum takes returns for this type of screen defect. it's definitely bigger than a few pixels as it's easily seen with the naked eye. has anyone else run into this type of problem?


This is the response that I got from Green-sum:

Hello,

Thank you for contacting us and we apologize for the inconvenience.

After checking with the manufacturer, they said they don't consider bright dots as defective, but they're willing to offer a partial refund of $15 for the trouble. Please note, accepting the partial refund will not affect the one year warranty in any way and if the issue worsens as you use it, you can let us know any time as long as it's within the warranty period.

Thank you.

Does anyone know how I should respond to this? If not, I guess I'm the test case for this... Will report as the situation continues.


----------



## yeahman

quick question: I've read a few comments about how it can ONLY support 1440p. I play CS:GO at 1280 x 1024 stretched. Will that display full screen on this monitor? and will it still run at the OC'ed hz?


----------



## 175pi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yeahman*
> 
> quick question: I've read a few comments about how it can ONLY support 1440p. I play CS:GO at 1280 x 1024 stretched. Will that display full screen on this monitor? and will it still run at the OC'ed hz?


I'm not sure how it would look, but can you just play the game in windowed mode?


----------



## yeahman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *175pi*
> 
> I'm not sure how it would look, but can you just play the game in windowed mode?


yes but the window size will be fixed at the set resolution, so essentially a window that is 1280 x 1024. It can't be resized (stretched) to fullscreen. There is a fullscreen windowed option, but that only works at native res. Anyone know how any games are displayed at non-1440p resolutions on this monitor? meaning are they scaled (stretched to fullscreen) or run in a fixed size window?


----------



## Wattser93

How hard/easy is it to overclock one of these? I'm thinking about buying a pair of them (so they'll match).


----------



## weaveR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lester007*
> 
> i tried to take pictures of mine, it is matte but feels more semi matte to me. hope this help for you
> 1st one is normal use 2nd is monitor turned off and 3rd is with flash monitor turned off


Looks like you still have the plastic on maybe that's why it feels like semi matte? Have you considered taking the plastic off?


----------



## bach99

Wattser93, Well, it is relatively easy. If you are using Nvidia, all you really need to do is set Custom Resolution and set the refresh rate. Most of the time, if the timings are set to default, it is good enough. Almost all of these monitors are virtually guaranteed to hit 95hz minimum. You may or may not be able to do higher refresh rates, though.

weaveR, I like your SNAFU wallpaper!


----------



## lester007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weaveR*
> 
> Looks like you still have the plastic on maybe that's why it feels like semi matte? Have you considered taking the plastic off?


not sure about that, bezel are glossy i would take another shot maybe at the same time probably


----------



## magedoge

Ok so now I got an answer from Green-Sum and they can ship to FInland. It just costs some extra (they said about 40USD). Could someone here send a link when they have a sale for this monitor again since I don't see these monitors in ebay apparently because in ebay it says that they don't ship to Finland. With normal price it would be pretty expensive to buy this 2795QHD from them. The 27QHD is cheaper but I would like to buy 2795QHD just to be sure that I can overclock it.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magedoge*
> 
> Ok so now I got an answer from Green-Sum and they can ship to FInland. It just costs some extra (they said about 40USD). Could someone here send a link when they have a sale for this monitor again since I don't see these monitors in ebay apparently because in ebay it says that they don't ship to Finland. With normal price it would be pretty expensive to buy this 2795QHD from them. The 27QHD is cheaper but I would like to buy 2795QHD just to be sure that I can overclock it.


I bought mine from Dream-seller. He ships to the Netherlands so probably Finland too. Make sure you ask him to have a receipt duplicate on or around the package. The border control people are holding my package because they can't determine the value of it....... IT'S BEEN 5 DAYS!! I've only received the letter about that today!! Now I have to wait for the letter to be sent back, the package and costs determined, and then sent to me. What a nightmare -_-


----------



## magedoge

I would propably buy from Dream-Seller since they offer free shipping and their price is pretty cheap, but they haven't answered my questions yet and it has been like over a week since I asked them. But when you get your monitor, please let us know how is it and does it have PWM dimming etc. I have gotten the feeling that none of these monitors should use PWM dimming so it would be safe to order also from Dream-Seller.


----------



## rkl1985

Just wanted to update everyone... After sending back the defective monitor to the seller on Amazon I turned around and purchased one of them from Greensum and received it promptly.... This time we are doing fine! Went straight to 96hz out of the box, just 1 dead pixel and less backlight bleed than the Crossover 27Q-led that I came from which I gave to my brother. Totally satisfied.


----------



## Bones28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magedoge*
> 
> I would propably buy from Dream-Seller since they offer free shipping and their price is pretty cheap, but they haven't answered my questions yet and it has been like over a week since I asked them. But when you get your monitor, please let us know how is it and does it have PWM dimming etc. I have gotten the feeling that none of these monitors should use PWM dimming so it would be safe to order also from Dream-Seller.


I have had three different answers from three different sellers, Green-Sum said flicker free and no dimming, bigclothcraft was uncertain if it has PWM and didn't answer my question about guaranteeing to receiver a monitor without dead pixels with Ultimate pixel version and dream-seller didn't know what PWM was and had to look it up and still can't understand it afterwards, at least I learned that dream-seller does pay for shipping on DOA, was not mentioned in auction

I made offers to both dream-seller and bigclothcraft with no luck, dream-seller didn't even bother declining or counter-offer and let it expire like most offers he receives, so I will likely not buy from him for ignoring it, while at least bigclothcraft did counter quickly, albeit only $5.50 under buy now







, considering it was Ultimate version, should have had a better offer than that with more profit margin buying better pixel policy

Guess I am back to waiting for Green-Sum sale for now at least


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magedoge*
> 
> I would propably buy from Dream-Seller since they offer free shipping and their price is pretty cheap, but they haven't answered my questions yet and it has been like over a week since I asked them. But when you get your monitor, please let us know how is it and does it have PWM dimming etc. I have gotten the feeling that none of these monitors should use PWM dimming so it would be safe to order also from Dream-Seller.


I'll let you know. If I'm lucky, the dumbass customs will get my letter tomorrow, appraise the package, send it by the 5pm, and I'll have it delivered by friday/saturday.... yeah right. like I could be that lucky


----------



## magedoge

I guess I'm gonna wait for next week and if there is no sale or anything I am going to make an offer to Dream-Seller and ask them that is it ok to mark lower price because of customs. Their monitor is so much cheaper with free shipping that I think it would be worth the risk to try. My new GPU should arrive soon and I would really like to get new monitor to test it properly.


----------



## Abadaman

Guys, any1 compared this monitor to matte Qnix(with 02 panel), i wonder whats the Ah-IPS vs PLS like? The matte qnix with 02panel has really punchy colors, but probably uses PWM, so dunno...


----------



## NadavCE

I'm thinking of upgrading to the R9 Fury, but I noticed that there are no DVI ports- are there any adapters I can use?


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> I'm thinking of upgrading to the R9 Fury, but I noticed that there are no DVI ports- are there any adapters I can use?


That is something I have asked at least once in this thread and gotten no reply. The listings on ebay say you cannot use adapters, even DP>DVI-D with this monitor, but I don't see why a DP>DVI-D would not work. It seems like as long as its a true digital signal it wouldn't matter.


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> That is something I have asked at least once in this thread and gotten no reply. The listings on ebay say you cannot use adapters, even DP>DVI-D with this monitor, but I don't see why a DP>DVI-D would not work. It seems like as long as its a true digital signal it wouldn't matter.


After scouring the internet for info, it appears that active adapters will work, but passive ones won't. A passive adapter moves the same signal to a different connector (for example, a Displayport signal to a DVI port) while an active adapter has a chip that converts the signal to a DVI one.

I have found conflicting information about whether or not Sapphire's R9 Fury includes an active adapter- some stores claim it's an active, dual-link one while Sapphire's official site claims it's a passive, single-link.


----------



## 175pi

I have a display port to dvi adapter that I've tested with this monitor that I used when I had 3 monitors on my R9 270. I just checked on Amazon and it is active. When used the monitor picture goes in and out rapidly and is not usable. I can test anything after work with if you need me to.

edit to add link to my adapter:
LINK


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *175pi*
> 
> I have a display port to dvi adapter that I've tested with this monitor that I used when I had 3 monitors on my R9 270. I just checked on Amazon and it is active. When used the monitor picture goes in and out rapidly and is not usable. I can test anything after work with if you need me to.
> 
> edit to add link to my adapter:
> LINK


Thanks a lot! Another option I might have found is this...

The HDMI 1.4 standard (which was introduced in 2009) has a maximum bandwidth of 3.4 GB/s. A resolution of 2560x1440 pixels @90 Hz has a bandwidth of 3.32 GB/s.
HDMI and DVI cables use the same signal, unlike Displayport cables.

This might mean that a plain old HDMI to Dual-Link DVI-D adapter/cable just *might* work.


----------



## brucethemoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *175pi*
> 
> I have a display port to dvi adapter that I've tested with this monitor that I used when I had 3 monitors on my R9 270. I just checked on Amazon and it is active. When used the monitor picture goes in and out rapidly and is not usable. I can test anything after work with if you need me to.
> 
> edit to add link to my adapter:
> LINK
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot! Another option I might have found is this...
> 
> The HDMI 1.4 standard (which was introduced in 2009) has a maximum bandwidth of 3.4 GB/s. A resolution of 2560x1440 pixels @90 Hz has a bandwidth of 3.32 GB/s.
> HDMI and DVI cables use the same signal, unlike Displayport cables.
> 
> This might mean that a plain old HDMI to Dual-Link DVI-D adapter/cable just *might* work.
Click to expand...

I don't think so. As far as I know, HDMI is like SL-DVI running at a really high frequency, while DL-DVI has more pins... but I could be wrong.

Also, I think I'm getting one of these for another build. Ty for the thread


----------



## BusterOddo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> After scouring the internet for info, it appears that active adapters will work, but passive ones won't. A passive adapter moves the same signal to a different connector (for example, a Displayport signal to a DVI port) while an active adapter has a chip that converts the signal to a DVI one.
> 
> I have found conflicting information about whether or not Sapphire's R9 Fury includes an active adapter- some stores claim it's an active, dual-link one while Sapphire's official site claims it's a passive, single-link.


I am interested to know about this as well. I was told by another member here that the adapters tend to drop frames.

Asus makes a Fury Strix with DL DVI btw:

https://www.asus.com/Graphics-Cards/STRIXR9FURYDC34GGAMING/


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BusterOddo*
> 
> I am interested to know about this as well. I was told by another member here that the adapters tend to drop frames.
> 
> Asus makes a Fury Strix with DL DVI btw:
> 
> https://www.asus.com/Graphics-Cards/STRIXR9FURYDC34GGAMING/


That would be ideal. Sadly, the only store that sells it where I live prices it higher than the 980 Ti...


----------



## weaveR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lester007*
> 
> not sure about that, bezel are glossy i would take another shot maybe at the same time probably


What's the stand like is it adjustable like the older model in this youtube?


----------



## gregcc

Hey guys, quick question regarding the seller dream-seller, i could not help notice he had the monitor listed 3 times at difference prices. Has anybody bought the cheapest listing, were there dead pixels? I dont mind spending the extra if the monitor is fully working, but am curious if its just older listings or if prices are based on quality control checks. Also any uk users here, how much extra would i be paying in customs fees? Thanks!


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregcc*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question regarding the seller dream-seller, i could not help notice he had the monitor listed 3 times at difference prices. Has anybody bought the cheapest listing, were there dead pixels? I dont mind spending the extra if the monitor is fully working, but am curious if its just older listings or if prices are based on quality control checks. Also any uk users here, how much extra would i be paying in customs fees? Thanks!


I bought the listing for 300$ and got a perfect monitor- no backlight bleed, no dead pixels and OC to 110Hz.


----------



## NadavCE

I can confirm that a cheap, DP to DL DVI-I doesn't work.


----------



## weaveR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> I bought the listing for 300$ and got a perfect monitor- no backlight bleed, no dead pixels and OC to 110Hz.


Was that from dream-seller? Seems most people used green-sum but some got small faults with their monitors even when they were advertised as perfect but not "ultimate perfect" very misleading.


----------



## lester007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weaveR*
> 
> What's the stand like is it adjustable like the older model in this youtube?


Yes it its the same stand not adjustable but you can use your own vesa mount.


----------



## weaveR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lester007*
> 
> Yes it its the same stand not adjustable but you can use your own vesa mount.


Do you have to open the screen to unscrew screws to take the old stand out or is the default stand attached to the vesa mount already?


----------



## lester007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weaveR*
> 
> Do you have to open the screen to unscrew screws to take the old stand out or is the default stand attached to the vesa mount already?


Yes you have to take out the screen to take out the stand from the monitor
you can check this post here
http://www.overclock.net/t/1555354/official-crossover-2795-qhd-pwm-flicker-free-overclock-able-matte-1440p-ah-ips/670#post_24336689


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weaveR*
> 
> Was that from dream-seller? Seems most people used green-sum but some got small faults with their monitors even when they were advertised as perfect but not "ultimate perfect" very misleading.


Yes, it was from dream-seller.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Release my monitor to me, Airport Customs! You've had it since thursday afternoon >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is this?!
> 
> (Korean time)
> Aug 31, 2015 04:26 pm Handed over to CustomsKorea Post (NL AM SA)
> Aug 28, 2015 12:58 pm Handed over to CustomsKorea Post (NL AM SA)
> Aug 28, 2015 12:57 pm Arrival at inward office of exchange Korea Post (NL AM SA)


Yay! Now that I've sent the receipt, they've determined I need to pay about 30% more







Thanks, import taxes. It'll arrive almost a week later than I expected -_-


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Yay! Now that I've sent the receipt, they've determined I need to pay about 30% more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, import taxes. It'll arrive almost a week later than I expected -_-


Better than the 60% I was supposed to cough up....


----------



## geoffropuff

Just an update on my situation. I asked them to cover the cost of a Squaretrade warranty in order to keep the monitor with bright spot but they were only willing to give me a $20 partial refund or a return with paid shipping. I wanted an exchange but they said that they couldn't guarantee the next monitor they sent me would not have that bright spot (which is not considered a defect by the manufacturer). I ultimately decided to return the monitor and buy the LG ultrawide that was on sale yesterday at Adorama. That's no knock on this monitor, though. Before the bright spot developed, it was absolutely beautiful and OC'd to 96 with no problems whatsoever.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Better than the 60% I was supposed to cough up....


Daaaamn... where do you live for such ridiculous taxes? Converting the currency means I'm going to pay 84,83 extra. Still... it's about $120 less expensive than a 144Hz monitor with the same resolution and certainly worth it compared to the 75Hz monitors.

edit: woop! Arriving today







Camera FV5 seems to allow apperture changing on my phone so I'll have to use that to test when it gets here.


----------



## Abadaman

any1 else noticed that there are two different logos going on in these Crossover 2795? One with crossover logo and second with a smile on it. I just hope they are the same panels and not something different. Any1 can collaborate?


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> any1 else noticed that there are two different logos going on in these Crossover 2795? One with crossover logo and second with a smile on it. I just hope they are the same panels and not something different. Any1 can collaborate?


It's a stock body they use. I remember seeing people posting about buttons that don't do anything. So maybe at some point they got new bodies for some other monitor and that's why it has a smile. I'll let you know what mine has when it gets here.


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> It's a stock body they use. I remember seeing people posting about buttons that don't do anything. So maybe at some point they got new bodies for some other monitor and that's why it has a smile. I'll let you know what mine has when it gets here.


I hope you are right, i am a bit sceptic when it comes to korean panels, they are great, but dont wanna see crossover 2795 go down the road as Qnix/Xstar with that PWM 07 panels in glossy ones and 02 panels in matte ones. I just really hope that the newer Crossovers with that smile logo wont come with ,,free gift'' of PWM and crazy low frequency flicker that would explode my head as my last matte/glossy qnix...


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> I hope you are right, i am a bit sceptic when it comes to korean panels, they are great, but dont wanna see crossover 2795 go down the road as Qnix/Xstar with that PWM 07 panels in glossy ones and 02 panels in matte ones. I just really hope that the newer Crossovers with that smile logo wont come with ,,free gift'' of PWM and crazy low frequency flicker that would explode my head as my last matte/glossy qnix...


Finally home







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> I'll let you know. If I'm lucky, the dumbass customs will get my letter tomorrow, appraise the package, send it by the 5pm, and I'll have it delivered by friday/saturday.... yeah right. like I could be that lucky


Finally I'm home!

Bought from Dream-seller (CrossOver 2795QHD 2560x1440 LG AH-IPS Non-Glare 27" Monitor) for $316.90 + ~$85 import tax. Decent amount of bubblewrap. Box says HDMI, DP on it which worried me for a moment but it's just single input. Works on my R9 290 Windforce that has 2xDVI-D, HDMI, and Display port. Currently connected to DVI-D.

No dead pixels I can see so far. Stock frame with extra buttons that do nothing. It has the winking face icon instead of Crossover. Backlight bleed? Little to none. Depends on the viewing angle it seems. 60hz valid except it says potential browser stutter in chrome/firefox.

Time to overclock!

edit: CRU labels it as 27QHD, fyi.

edit2: seems I suck at overclocking. 120 blanks out and crashes too much. 110 has slight artifacts and blur ufo doesn't validate it because it's stuck below 60. and 96 isn't recognized? I think I'm doing something wrong on the last part. Try again later.


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Finally home
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally I'm home!
> 
> Bought from Dream-seller (CrossOver 2795QHD 2560x1440 LG AH-IPS Non-Glare 27" Monitor) for $316.90 + ~$85 import tax. Decent amount of bubblewrap. Box says HDMI, DP on it which worried me for a moment but it's just single input. Works on my R9 290 Windforce that has 2xDVI-D, HDMI, and Display port. Currently connected to DVI-D.
> 
> No dead pixels I can see so far. Stock frame with extra buttons that do nothing. It has the winking face icon instead of Crossover. Backlight bleed? Little to none. Depends on the viewing angle it seems. 60hz valid except it says potential browser stutter in chrome/firefox.
> 
> Time to overclock!
> 
> edit: CRU labels it as 27QHD, fyi.


sweet, could you try PWM test, please? http://testufo.com/#test=blurtrail ... just see if ther is single line or multiple lines, also open up white background(fb or this page), put brightness half clicks from maximum, open up cam on u phone, theone which takes photos and point it at the display, does it flicker, like lines going from up and down, or is it constant, maybe like shimmering?


----------



## brucethemoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> I hope you are right, i am a bit sceptic when it comes to korean panels, they are great, but dont wanna see crossover 2795 go down the road as Qnix/Xstar with that PWM 07 panels in glossy ones and 02 panels in matte ones. I just really hope that the newer Crossovers with that smile logo wont come with ,,free gift'' of PWM and crazy low frequency flicker that would explode my head as my last matte/glossy qnix...
> 
> 
> 
> Finally home
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> I'll let you know. If I'm lucky, the dumbass customs will get my letter tomorrow, appraise the package, send it by the 5pm, and I'll have it delivered by friday/saturday.... yeah right. like I could be that lucky
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Finally I'm home!
> 
> Bought from Dream-seller (CrossOver 2795QHD 2560x1440 LG AH-IPS Non-Glare 27" Monitor) for $316.90 + ~$85 import tax. Decent amount of bubblewrap. Box says HDMI, DP on it which worried me for a moment but it's just single input. Works on my R9 290 Windforce that has 2xDVI-D, HDMI, and Display port. Currently connected to DVI-D.
> 
> No dead pixels I can see so far. Stock frame with extra buttons that do nothing. It has the winking face icon instead of Crossover. Backlight bleed? Little to none. Depends on the viewing angle it seems. 60hz valid except it says potential browser stutter in chrome/firefox.
> 
> Time to overclock!
> 
> edit: CRU labels it as 27QHD, fyi.
> 
> edit2: seems I suck at overclocking. 120 blanks out and crashes too much. 110 has slight artifacts and blur ufo doesn't validate it because it's stuck below 60. and 96 isn't recognized? I think I'm doing something wrong on the last part. Try again later.
Click to expand...

You patched the drivers and used auto timings right?

Try 72hz.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> sweet, could you try PWM test, please? http://testufo.com/#test=blurtrail ... just see if ther is single line or multiple lines, also open up white background(fb or this page), put brightness half clicks from maximum, open up cam on u phone, theone which takes photos and point it at the display, does it flicker, like lines going from up and down, or is it constant, maybe like shimmering?


Taken at 1/25. 60hz gets valid with stutter in chrome and firefox (but it does it for all my monitors. Frame skipping :'( maybe I'm just not done overclocking.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brucethemoose*
> 
> You patched the drivers and used auto timings right?
> 
> Try 72hz.


Yeah, patched it and from there I should be able to select it in the ATI CCC right? Or do I delete all the detailed resolutions and reset.exe? I'll try 72hz in a moment.

edit: is my pixel clock supposed to be high or low compared to what the guide gives? any cru settings you can link to test? If I just use default and type in 96, it goes all wonky, blinky, and weird.


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Taken at 1/25. 60hz gets valid with stutter in chrome and firefox (but it does it for all my monitors. Frame skipping :'( maybe I'm just not done overclocking.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, patched it and from there I should be able to select it in the ATI CCC right? Or do I delete all the detailed resolutions and reset.exe? I'll try 72hz in a moment.
> 
> edit: is my pixel clock supposed to be high or low compared to what the guide gives?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club try follow this guide regarding to ur GPU and let us know more please, def interested in this as i am thinking of buying exa the one monitor you have from him. Check for PWM also, please, it is important for me cause myself and low pwm as in matte qnixes nowadays are big no no


----------



## brucethemoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Taken at 1/25. 60hz gets valid with stutter in chrome and firefox (but it does it for all my monitors. Frame skipping :'( maybe I'm just not done overclocking.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, patched it and from there I should be able to select it in the ATI CCC right? Or do I delete all the detailed resolutions and reset.exe? I'll try 72hz in a moment.
> 
> edit: is my pixel clock supposed to be high or low compared to what the guide gives?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club try follow this guide regarding to ur GPU and let us know more please, def interested in this as i am thinking of buying exa the one monitor you have from him. Check for PWM also, please, it is important for me cause myself and low pwm as in matte qnixes nowadays are big no no
Click to expand...

You get frame skipping at 60hz with all your monitors? That's not good... You either have some hardware/driver problem or WAAY too much junk running in the background.

The timings window should look like this. "LCD native" is also worth trying if "LCD Standard" doesn't work.


The new refresh rate you created should be at the top of the detailed resolution list, like so:

(Ignore my low res monitor)


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brucethemoose*
> 
> You get frame skipping at 60hz with all your monitors? That's not good... You either have some hardware/driver problem or WAAY too much junk running in the background.
> 
> The timings window should look like this. "LCD native" is also worth trying if "LCD Standard" doesn't work.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new refresh rate you created should be at the top of the detailed resolution list, like so:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Ignore my low res monitor)


Okay! got 96 to show up as valid with the LCD standard setting at 96. PC restart... classic thing to forget.

edit: Seems good









Spoiler: 3 images









110 is all blurry and has vertical and horizontal lines everywhere. 120 doesn't work well enough for an image.

edit2: 1/25, 60cm away as TFT central said to do. I get 5 lines. With the stock OnePlus One camera I get 3 lines. Camera FV5 does max 640x480 resolution unless I pay, sorry











There is bleed but not something I notice unless it's a black screen.


----------



## brucethemoose

Because it's a multiple of 24, I usually stick to 96hz even though my Shimian can do 110hz.

Looks great







. I'll probably order one from dream-seller as well, as they've treated me well in the past.


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Okay! got 96 to show up as valid with the LCD standard setting at 96. PC restart... classic thing to forget.
> 
> edit: Seems good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: 3 images
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 110 is all blurry and has vertical and horizontal lines everywhere. 120 doesn't work well enough for an image.
> 
> edit2: 1/25, 60cm away as TFT central said to do. I get 5 lines. With the stock OnePlus One camera I get 3 lines. Camera FV5 does max 640x480 resolution unless I pay, sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is bleed but not something I notice unless it's a black screen.


Indeed looks sweet, but why that stutter warning on the oc test? shouldnt it be valid?

About the lines you get from PWM test, i tried on my laptop, which uses PWM bellow 100percent brightness,

photos were taken with lg g2 cam:

first photo with brightness on 100percent: http://tinypic.com/r/14wdkl1/8
second photo with brightness on 50percent: http://tinypic.com/r/6g9apv/8

As you can see, it shows the lines on both pictures, i am sure that my laptop doesnt use pwm on 100percent brightness. This test is suppossed to be an optical test, if you put ur monitor brightness all the way up, you should see kinda one white blurry line, if you put ur monitor brightness lower lets say 10 clicks(dunno how much clicks does crossover 2795 matte have overall from min to max brightness), there should be the same blurry line when no PWM is used. If PWM is used, the white line would kind of split itself to more lines (just from watching), from what i experienced at least. Also, if you could test(another optical test), just open up ur phone cam(one which takes photo), ut ur monitor brightness at max, point it at white background on the monitor, there shouldnt be any lines going from up to down. Maybe some shimmering(that is constant volage with no pwm, now lower ur brightness lets say 10 clicks, if it starts to flicker, have lines going from up down, then it uses PWM, if it stays clear, with maybe shimmering, it does not use PWM. Also when we are at it you could test if it uses PWM on lowest brightness possible.









Another thing i would like from you to test







, could you take some pics of different colors on this page? just open it up http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php , press red green blue maybe white , press f11 and take pics of it? This way we can test overall color and brightness uniformity also.

Thank You


----------



## weaveR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Bought from Dream-seller (CrossOver 2795QHD 2560x1440 LG AH-IPS Non-Glare 27" Monitor)


Really is that the non-glare version? That's Dream-sellers way of saying matte right? Your monitor seems quite reflective it really should advertised as "semi-matte" as lester007 described his Green-sum one but I guess all Korean monitors are not as matte as Dell monitors are which is a shame as I really hate seeing reflections but if this screen doesn't have PWM dimming that'd be excellent being I'd hate to get health problems from using the monitor for long periods of time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> If I just use default and type in 96, it goes all wonky, blinky, and weird.


Interesting your graphics card isn't displaying 96 hertz properly I have the sapphire tri-x version of your card that is pretty much identical in physical clock speeds etc so I guess I'd be in the same boat and not be able to use 96 hertz unless I change my card?

Also is it true the monitor can't do other resolutions other than 1440p?


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weaveR*
> 
> Really is that the non-glare version? That's Dream-sellers way of saying matte right? Your monitor seems quite reflective it really should advertised as "semi-matte" as lester007 described his Green-sum one but I guess all Korean monitors are not as matte as Dell monitors are which is a shame as I really hate seeing reflections but if this screen doesn't have PWM dimming that'd be excellent being I'd hate to get health problems from using the monitor for long periods of time.
> Interesting your graphics card isn't displaying 96 hertz properly I have the sapphire tri-x version of your card that is pretty much identical in physical clock speeds etc so I guess I'd be in the same boat and not be able to use 96 hertz unless I change my card?
> 
> Also is it true the monitor can't do other resolutions other than 1440p?


It must be matte, otherwise you would see reflections, the pic he posted : http://cdn.overclock.net/4/4b/4bc9edc2_IMG_20150906_002720.jpeg , i dont see any reflections. To be exact the coating used in Qnixes matte and Crossovers matte should be similair, it is something between matte and glossy = semi glossy, acts like matte, but doesnt degrade the clarity so much as thick matte coatings, which is a plus


----------



## weaveR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> It must be matte, otherwise you would see reflections, the pic he posted : http://cdn.overclock.net/4/4b/4bc9edc2_IMG_20150906_002720.jpeg , i dont see any reflections.


I see a reflection on the top right hand side of the screen check out where I circled in red I also attached a photo of what I think is "matte" below.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weaveR*
> 
> Really is that the non-glare version? That's Dream-sellers way of saying matte right? Your monitor seems quite reflective it really should advertised as "semi-matte" as lester007 described his Green-sum one but I guess all Korean monitors are not as matte as Dell monitors are which is a shame as I really hate seeing reflections but if this screen doesn't have PWM dimming that'd be excellent being I'd hate to get health problems from using the monitor for long periods of time.
> Interesting your graphics card isn't displaying 96 hertz properly I have the sapphire tri-x version of your card that is pretty much identical in physical clock speeds etc so I guess I'd be in the same boat and not be able to use 96 hertz unless I change my card?
> 
> Also is it true the monitor can't do other resolutions other than 1440p?


By using LCD standard instead of manual and putting it to 96hz in CRU, a restart made the overclock work. The reset.exe doesn't do it well enough it seems. AMD 15.4 Beta drivers. I don't want to update for fear of breaking everything that worked fine after the graphic driver wipe ruined it all.

The monitor is definitely semi-matte compared to my other monitor. I reflect much more in it.

I can set it to 1080p though it looks like ****. 1440p is so cleeeaan







I'm never going back now!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> As you can see, it shows the lines on both pictures, i am sure that my laptop doesnt use pwm on 100percent brightness. This test is suppossed to be an optical test, if you put ur monitor brightness all the way up, you should see kinda one white blurry line, if you put ur monitor brightness lower lets say 10 clicks(dunno how much clicks does crossover 2795 matte have overall from min to max brightness), there should be the same blurry line when no PWM is used. If PWM is used, the white line would kind of split itself to more lines (just from watching), from what i experienced at least. Also, if you could test(another optical test), just open up ur phone cam(one which takes photo), ut ur monitor brightness at max, point it at white background on the monitor, there shouldnt be any lines going from up to down. Maybe some shimmering(that is constant volage with no pwm, now lower ur brightness lets say 10 clicks, if it starts to flicker, have lines going from up down, then it uses PWM, if it stays clear, with maybe shimmering, it does not use PWM. Also when we are at it you could test if it uses PWM on lowest brightness possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another thing i would like from you to test
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , could you take some pics of different colors on this page? just open it up http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php , press red green blue maybe white , press f11 and take pics of it? This way we can test overall color and brightness uniformity also.
> 
> Thank You


15 clicks for 100 to 0 brightness on the monitor. At least, that's what mine seems to have.

AMD R9 290 Windforce, ATI CCC _display color settings_
Hue 0
Saturation 109
Brightness 0
Contrast 127
Temperature 8000K

Visible banding: No
Visible PWM dimming: No
60 Hz: Yes
110 Hz: Yes
120 Hz: Sadly, no :'( Not my luck I guess.

Blue has a, for lack of better description, womwomwomwomwom effect... like... it pulses?


Spoiler: Pics of fullscreen R G B W Bl














Spoiler: edit.. Less blurry RGB









edit: gif of that blue pulse https://gfycat.com/ShockingFoolhardyGannet When I focus the camera, it doesn't do it. So when it switches back to autofocus, it starts doing this.

For white, I dont see any banding or pulsing by lowering the brightness and having anti banding off in the camera app.


Spoiler: Full brightness, pwm test










Spoiler: 0 brightness, pwm test










Spoiler: Full brightness, CCC brightness 100








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weaveR*
> 
> I see a reflection on the top right hand side of the screen check out where I circled in red I also attached a photo of what I think is "matte" below.


Oh, the border is glossy. For comparison, my left monitor is matte and my right is glossy. The screen itself is, I guess, semi-matte.


Spoiler: Matte/glossy pics










edit2: wut? 

Much better


----------



## weaveR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Oh, the border is glossy. For comparison, my left monitor is matte and my right is glossy. The screen itself is, I guess, semi-matte.


Oh I thought "matte" just applied just to the boarder I didn't realize the actual screen can be reflective or not reflective as well I'm still learning about this I don't see why anyone would want a reflective screen maybe because it is cheaper?

I guess it would be most important to have a non reflective screen rather than the boarder but I'd rather both if possible as it would match my case better and wouldn't attract fingerprints and dust as much but it looks like if you want the best 1440p single input it's either this or the really expensive 144hz asus.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weaveR*
> 
> Oh I thought "matte" just applied just to the boarder I didn't realize the actual screen can be reflective or not reflective as well I'm still learning about this I don't see why anyone would want a reflective screen maybe because it is cheaper?
> 
> I guess it would be most important to have a non reflective screen rather than the boarder but I'd rather both if possible as it would match my case better and wouldn't attract fingerprints and dust as much but it looks like if you want the best 1440p single input it's either this or the really expensive 144hz asus.


If you have bright lights/area behind you while looking at the screen, you want a matte screen so as not to reflect much. Same goes for outside in the sun. A glossy screen is horrible and even at full brightness on a laptop, you can't see much. Matte screens still have some form of glare but in much less extreme than glossy. I don't have much light in my room anyways because I prefer a darker environment. The brightest lights I can have during the day are from the windows behind the monitor. So glossy or matte don't matter much but in case I move or change desk positions, I won't regret having bought matte over glossy.

Matte left vs glossy right

Laptop matte vs glossy


Overal, glossy has more vivid colors and contrasts but suffers from glare in environments with bright lights shining towards it. Matte has less vivid colors and contrast but have a much lessened glare effect. If you darken your room to watch a movie or series, glossy will look way better!


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weaveR*
> 
> I see a reflection on the top right hand side of the screen check out where I circled in red I also attached a photo of what I think is "matte" below.


You see reflections of the casing, not the actual display you watch... i had glossy xstar, 2 matte qnixes, and yamakasi catleap 2b, from my experience, matte qnix won always, you could play throuh day with open windows and you could see almost no reflections, just something like faint haze maybe, the glossy sucked for this, as you would be looking at reflections all the time on darker scenes. Even at evening when it is dark with small lamp on you could see reflections. It is a matter of preference tho, i prefer semi glossy matte screens overall as the clarity hit is almost non existent.

id recommend matte crossover 2795 or matte qnix (it still uses the 02 panel with vibrant and punchy colors, which is + for games, but not that accurate for photo editing), or crossover 2795 matte, which uses AH-IPS panel, has matte coating, should have nice colors(maybe not that punchy and vibrant as qnix matte with 02 panel, but more accurate - need to verify this from someone with both that can compare), but beware, qnix matte tends to use PWM (it flickers) on lower brightnes than max, which could potentially cause issues like headache or red eyes if u are sensitive.

I want to pick up one of these monitors for my self, but wanna make sure if crossover 2795 use or doesnt use PWM, as i am sensitive to PWM.


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> By using LCD standard instead of manual and putting it to 96hz in CRU, a restart made the overclock work. The reset.exe doesn't do it well enough it seems. AMD 15.4 Beta drivers. I don't want to update for fear of breaking everything that worked fine after the graphic driver wipe ruined it all.
> 
> The monitor is definitely semi-matte compared to my other monitor. I reflect much more in it.
> 
> I can set it to 1080p though it looks like ****. 1440p is so cleeeaan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm never going back now!
> 15 clicks for 100 to 0 brightness on the monitor. At least, that's what mine seems to have.
> 
> AMD R9 290 Windforce, ATI CCC _display color settings_
> Hue 0
> Saturation 109
> Brightness 0
> Contrast 127
> Temperature 8000K
> 
> Blue has a, for lack of better description, womwomwomwomwom effect... like... it pulses?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics of fullscreen R G B W Bl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: edit.. Less blurry RGB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: gif of that blue pulse https://gfycat.com/ShockingFoolhardyGannet When I focus the camera, it doesn't do it. So when it switches back to autofocus, it starts doing this.
> 
> For white, I dont see any banding or pulsing by lowering the brightness and having anti banding off in the camera app.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Full brightness, pwm test
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: 0 brightness, pwm test
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Full brightness, CCC brightness 100
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, the border is glossy. For comparison, my left monitor is matte and my right is glossy. The screen itself is, I guess, semi-matte.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Matte/glossy pics


Sweet, tho it does the same thing on the ufo test when max bright vs lower while taking pictures, on the lowest brightness i see more lines 5 on max maybe 4, that is not correct way of testing PWM, i believe.

Best way to test if monitor uses PWM is to take the stutter test guys tend to do here, dunno how to do it tho, you must find it up. What about the ,,eye test''? When u open up the ufo test, is there a single hazy line or more lines on max brightness compared to lets say half brightness? If PWM is used you should see more single white lines by eye when brightness half the clicks down from max, if PWM is not used, it should stay the same single white hazy line as on max brightness, could you test this?

As for the blu pulse gif, that looks weird, if there are vertical lines going from up down with phone camera(the one that takes photos) pointing at white background (tho it is best to closer, then a bit back, and forth, and check what does the phone cam do), like pulsating lines, then it is PWM from what i know, dunno about the middle pulsing on blue tho...

Do you use ur own color settings in CCC or are those default? I have AMD R290x Tri-X from Sapphire on my gaming pc and have color settings on default in CCC, i guess..

How would you rate the colors of the monitor(with default presets, without ICC, and no CCC modifications)?


----------



## weaveR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> glossy has more vivid colors and contrasts but suffers from glare in environments with bright lights shining towards it.


Right that makes sense I usually have the light on in my room so I guess that glossy could possibly reflect the light.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> A glossy screen is horrible and even at full brightness on a laptop, you can't see much.


I actually have a laptop and it reflects like crazy I think matte is the better option especially with this screen when the panel is LG AH-IPS LED anyway I'm sure that you wouldn't lose too much vividness but it would be interesting to compare 2 IPS panels rather than compare my current matte IPS panel and then the glossy ****ty panel my laptop uses.

What about the stand for this screen is it glossy or matte? I just hate fingerprints and dust showing up it looks ugly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> I want to pick up one of these monitors for my self, but wanna make sure if crossover 2795 use or doesnt use PWM, as i am sensitive to PWM.


It says on the first post that the Crossover 2795 QHD doesn't use PWM and I think people have asked Green-sum on ebay and he's said that they don't use PWM but yeah I think there's conflicting information I'd be interested too to know about PWM being I'd hate to get the health problems you experienced from the qnix.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> Sweet, tho it does the same thing on the ufo test when max bright vs lower while taking pictures, on the lowest brightness i see more lines 5 on max maybe 4, that is not correct way of testing PWM, i believe.
> 
> Best way to test if monitor uses PWM is to take the stutter test guys tend to do here, dunno how to do it tho, you must find it up. What about the ,,eye test''? When u open up the ufo test, is there a single hazy line or more lines on max brightness compared to lets say half brightness? If PWM is used you should see more single white lines by eye when brightness half the clicks down from max, if PWM is not used, it should stay the same single white hazy line as on max brightness, could you test this?
> 
> As for the blu pulse gif, that looks weird, if there are vertical lines going from up down with phone camera(the one that takes photos) pointing at white background (tho it is best to closer, then a bit back, and forth, and check what does the phone cam do), like pulsating lines, then it is PWM from what i know, dunno about the middle pulsing on blue tho...
> 
> Do you use ur own color settings in CCC or are those default? I have AMD R290x Tri-X from Sapphire on my gaming pc and have color settings on default in CCC, i guess..
> 
> How would you rate the colors of the monitor(with default presets, without ICC, and no CCC modifications)?


I'll have to test that when I get back home. I managed 110 though using LCD standard. Little bit of flickering less when I open a program maximized. Still need to test it with a game.

Using my eyes, I see multiple lines. When I follow the line with my eyes, it seems to flicker. More lines seem to appear with less brightness. If there is PWM dimming happening, imo it's not much but I can't say 100% for sure because everyone is affected differently. No banding happening for sure when I move my phone back, front, left, right against a white image.

For the colors, I only put saturation from 100 to 109 in CCC, 10/10 for my eyes. Default has great color, 9/10. My phone feels red is a bit more orange but of course, without proper equipment, I can't accurately test the colors. When I get back, I'll try to match the colors on the other monitors and view a video to compare them.

edit: Flicking much more clear on this site compared to lighter/brighter sites like google.com or reddit. Grid pattern of pixels (?) visible on dark colors. This is at *110hz*, fyi.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weaveR*
> 
> Right that makes sense I usually have the light on in my room so I guess that glossy could possibly reflect the light.
> I actually have a laptop and it reflects like crazy I think matte is the better option especially with this screen when the panel is LG AH-IPS LED anyway I'm sure that you wouldn't lose too much vividness but it would be interesting to compare 2 IPS panels rather than compare my current matte IPS panel and then the glossy ****ty panel my laptop uses.
> 
> What about the stand for this screen is it glossy or matte? I just hate fingerprints and dust showing up it looks ugly.


The stand is glossy like the frame around the panel. You'll need to keep a cloth to clean that if you're planning on "fingering" the stand


----------



## weaveR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> The stand is glossy like the frame around the panel. You'll need to keep a cloth to clean that if you're planning on "fingering" the stand


Well yeah I'd probably want to finger it to get it into the right position and if I didn't finger it would get dusty over time.


----------



## brucethemoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> Sweet, tho it does the same thing on the ufo test when max bright vs lower while taking pictures, on the lowest brightness i see more lines 5 on max maybe 4, that is not correct way of testing PWM, i believe.
> 
> Best way to test if monitor uses PWM is to take the stutter test guys tend to do here, dunno how to do it tho, you must find it up. What about the ,,eye test''? When u open up the ufo test, is there a single hazy line or more lines on max brightness compared to lets say half brightness? If PWM is used you should see more single white lines by eye when brightness half the clicks down from max, if PWM is not used, it should stay the same single white hazy line as on max brightness, could you test this?
> 
> As for the blu pulse gif, that looks weird, if there are vertical lines going from up down with phone camera(the one that takes photos) pointing at white background (tho it is best to closer, then a bit back, and forth, and check what does the phone cam do), like pulsating lines, then it is PWM from what i know, dunno about the middle pulsing on blue tho...
> 
> Do you use ur own color settings in CCC or are those default? I have AMD R290x Tri-X from Sapphire on my gaming pc and have color settings on default in CCC, i guess..
> 
> How would you rate the colors of the monitor(with default presets, without ICC, and no CCC modifications)?
> 
> 
> 
> I'll have to test that when I get back home. I managed 110 though using LCD standard. Little bit of flickering less when I open a program maximized. Still need to test it with a game.
> 
> Using my eyes, I see multiple lines. When I follow the line with my eyes, it seems to flicker. More lines seem to appear with less brightness. If there is PWM dimming happening, imo it's not much but I can't say 100% for sure because everyone is affected differently. No banding happening for sure when I move my phone back, front, left, right against a white image.
> 
> For the colors, I only put saturation from 100 to 109 in CCC, 10/10 for my eyes. Default has great color, 9/10. My phone feels red is a bit more orange but of course, without proper equipment, I can't accurately test the colors. When I get back, I'll try to match the colors on the other monitors and view a video to compare them.
> 
> edit: Flicking much more clear on this site compared to lighter/brighter sites like google.com or reddit. Grid pattern of pixels (?) visible on dark colors. This is at *110hz*, fyi.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *weaveR*
> 
> Right that makes sense I usually have the light on in my room so I guess that glossy could possibly reflect the light.
> I actually have a laptop and it reflects like crazy I think matte is the better option especially with this screen when the panel is LG AH-IPS LED anyway I'm sure that you wouldn't lose too much vividness but it would be interesting to compare 2 IPS panels rather than compare my current matte IPS panel and then the glossy ****ty panel my laptop uses.
> 
> What about the stand for this screen is it glossy or matte? I just hate fingerprints and dust showing up it looks ugly.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The stand is glossy like the frame around the panel. You'll need to keep a cloth to clean that if you're planning on "fingering" the stand
Click to expand...

Try "LCD reduced" or "LCD native" at 110hz. Both lower the pixel clock a bit, which might reduce the flickering/artifacts you get at 110hz.


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> I'll have to test that when I get back home. I managed 110 though using LCD standard. Little bit of flickering less when I open a program maximized. Still need to test it with a game.
> 
> Using my eyes, I see multiple lines. When I follow the line with my eyes, it seems to flicker. More lines seem to appear with less brightness. If there is PWM dimming happening, imo it's not much but I can't say 100% for sure because everyone is affected differently. No banding happening for sure when I move my phone back, front, left, right against a white image.
> 
> For the colors, I only put saturation from 100 to 109 in CCC, 10/10 for my eyes. Default has great color, 9/10. My phone feels red is a bit more orange but of course, without proper equipment, I can't accurately test the colors. When I get back, I'll try to match the colors on the other monitors and view a video to compare them.
> 
> edit: Flicking much more clear on this site compared to lighter/brighter sites like google.com or reddit. Grid pattern of pixels (?) visible on dark colors. This is at *110hz*, fyi.
> The stand is glossy like the frame around the panel. You'll need to keep a cloth to clean that if you're planning on "fingering" the stand


You might get to 110hz with the right timings, 110hz for this monitor is really good







. I still dont know if what you explain is evidence of PWM or not, but if you see more lines on the ufo test on half the brightness vs no lines at max brightness, then i think it means the backlight dimming (flickering) kicks in and is an evidence of PWM, phone should also pick the vertical lines on white background while having the monitor half the brightness if the monitor uses PWM...now i am a bit confused about the PWM, heh...


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> If you have bright lights/area behind you while looking at the screen, you want a matte screen so as not to reflect much. Same goes for outside in the sun. A glossy screen is horrible and even at full brightness on a laptop, you can't see much. Matte screens still have some form of glare but in much less extreme than glossy. I don't have much light in my room anyways because I prefer a darker environment. The brightest lights I can have during the day are from the windows behind the monitor. So glossy or matte don't matter much but in case I move or change desk positions, I won't regret having bought matte over glossy.
> 
> Matte left vs glossy right
> 
> Laptop matte vs glossy
> 
> 
> Overal, glossy has more vivid colors and contrasts but suffers from glare in environments with bright lights shining towards it. Matte has less vivid colors and contrast but have a much lessened glare effect. If you darken your room to watch a movie or series, glossy will look way better!


+R for your presentation and effort for Glossy vs Matte









It is a matter of personal taste (effort?) ... But True Glossy aficionados are not willing to give up the clarity and color "pop" of a glossy in a "Controlled Light Environment". Though the AG tech is improving, for the glossy user a Matte panel "dulls" the picture and feels like your being cheated out of all the scene has to offer .... like a crappy paint job on your exotic sports car!


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weaveR*
> 
> Right that makes sense I usually have the light on in my room so I guess that glossy could possibly reflect the light.
> I actually have a laptop and it reflects like crazy I think matte is the better option especially with this screen when the panel is LG AH-IPS LED anyway I'm sure that you wouldn't lose too much vividness but it would be interesting to compare 2 IPS panels rather than compare my current matte IPS panel and then the glossy ****ty panel my laptop uses.
> 
> What about the stand for this screen is it glossy or matte? I just hate fingerprints and dust showing up it looks ugly.
> It says on the first post that the Crossover 2795 QHD doesn't use PWM and I think people have asked Green-sum on ebay and he's said that they don't use PWM but yeah I think there's conflicting information I'd be interested too to know about PWM being I'd hate to get the health problems you experienced from the qnix.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> +R for your presentation and effort for Glossy vs Matte
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a matter of personal taste (effort?) ... But True Glossy aficionados are not willing to give up the clarity and color "pop" of a glossy in a "Controlled Light Environment". Though the AG tech is improving, for the glossy user a Matte panel "dulls" the picture and feels like your being cheated out of all the scene has to offer .... like a crappy paint job on your exotic sports car!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> You might get to 110hz with the right timings, 110hz for this monitor is really good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I still dont know if what you explain is evidence of PWM or not, but if you see more lines on the ufo test on half the brightness vs no lines at max brightness, then i think it means the backlight dimming (flickering) kicks in and is an evidence of PWM, phone should also pick the vertical lines on white background while having the monitor half the brightness if the monitor uses PWM...now i am a bit confused about the PWM, heh...


LCD native 110hz in CRU gives a valid ufo/blur line test. I looked again and I can't tell the difference between 0 brightness and full brightness. Looking straight ahead makes my eyes see multiple lines following each other (like my pics showed). If I follow a line, it seems like one big fuzzy line moving across. If anything, at lower brightness with my regular light on, I can barely make out the fuzziness but can still make out multiple lines. And again, this is all subjective. If you want, I can take a 120fps shot of the monitor at different brightness settings and upload a couple of frames. I know gifs and youtube won't properly show 120fps (right?).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brucethemoose*
> 
> Try "LCD reduced" or "LCD native" at 110hz. Both lower the pixel clock a bit, which might reduce the flickering/artifacts you get at 110hz.


For CRU, what am I looking for here with these numbers. I googled the meaning but have no clue where to start if I want to try to hit 120hz. Like, for a cpu its easy. Up the multiplier/bclk, up the voltage. RAM, it should be x, x, x, about x*3. What I mean is, should front porch or sync width be a ratio of horizontal to vertical or the resolution should divide evenly with them, etc. What is my end goal? Lower or higher pixel clock to hopefully get it stable?

I hope I've helped people out with this testing







All done using only CRU after ToastyX patch. R9 290, 3 monitors (2xDVI-D, 1x DP>VGA).

*Hypothesis*: I have to hit <443 MHz pixel clock at 120Hz for it to work possibly work since 96 and 110 work below those values and 110 doesn't work at 453 Mhz.

*Results*:
0. Stock 60 Hz = YES








1. LCD standard 96 Hz @393.51 MHz p-clock = YES








2. LCD standard 110 Hz @453.89 MHz p-clock = NO, flickering on dark colors. same as AMD only clockable memory OC guide
3. LCD native 110 Hz @443.12 MHz p-clock = YES








4. LCD reduced 110 Hz @430.10 MHz p-clock = NO - - - -> _this disproves my hypothesis._
5. LCD reduced 120 Hz @469.20 MHz p-clock = NO.
6. LCD reduced 120 Hz @456.71 MHz p-clock = NO. (half values for front/back porch, sync width (vertical only) from test 5).
7. Manual 120hz @459.86 Mhz p-clock = NO. testing after posting (same as OC guide 120Hz Nvidia and AMD cards timing)
8. Manual 120 Hz @487.74 MHz p-clock = NO. (OC guide 120 Hz clockable memory, AMD cards only)

*Conclusion*: There is a sweet spot for 96, 110, and 120 it seems. Still not 100% sure since there are more factors I can't account for. Unless stated otherwise, NO means heavy flickering of image.

Dicking around tests:
2. LCD native 115 Hz for 463.26 MHz pixel clock = NO. flickering for white, blue, green. no noticable flickering on my current background and red. link to background screenshot
3. LCD reduced 115 Hz for 449.65 MHz = NO

edit: test 1,2,3 hypothesis
edit: test 5, 7
edit: test 4, 6 + conclusion + consolidated results
edit: Further testing aka dicking around
edit: consolidated results again + ordered the mess of a post I wrote
edit 999: Found some info on the timings. Bolded the important part. Link
Quote:


> *Special Situation:* (from user reports) Sometimes a display "almost" reaches 120Hz, but not quite. For example, 115 Hz or 118 Hz. To fix such a minor shortfall, reduce the timings (smaller numbers for Front Porch, Back Porch and Sync) to maintain same dotclock while raising refresh rate. Using "Reduced" instead of "Automatic" within ToastyX Custom Resolution Utility, can do this too. This may allow success at 120Hz.


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> LCD native 110hz in CRU gives a valid ufo/blur line test. I looked again and I can't tell the difference between 0 brightness and full brightness. Looking straight ahead makes my eyes see multiple lines following each other (like my pics showed). If I follow a line, it seems like one big fuzzy line moving across. If anything, at lower brightness with my regular light on, I can barely make out the fuzziness but can still make out multiple lines. And again, this is all subjective. If you want, I can take a 120fps shot of the monitor at different brightness settings and upload a couple of frames. I know gifs and youtube won't properly show 120fps (right?).
> For CRU, what am I looking for here with these numbers. I googled the meaning but have no clue where to start if I want to try to hit 120hz. Like, for a cpu its easy. Up the multiplier/bclk, up the voltage. RAM, it should be x, x, x, about x*3. What I mean is, should front porch or sync width be a ratio of horizontal to vertical or the resolution should divide evenly with them, etc. What is my end goal? Lower or higher pixel clock to hopefully get it stable?
> 
> *Hypothesis*: I have to hit <443 MHz pixel clock at 120Hz for it to work possibly work since 96 and 110 work below those values and 110 doesn't work at 453 Mhz.
> 
> *Results*:
> 0. Stock 60 Hz = YES
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. LCD standard 96 Hz @393.51 MHz p-clock = YES
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. LCD standard 110 Hz @453.89 MHz p-clock = NO, flickering on dark colors. same as AMD only clockable memory OC guide
> 3. LCD native 110 Hz @443.12 MHz p-clock = YES
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4. LCD reduced 110 Hz @430.10 MHz p-clock = NO - - - -> _this disproves my hypothesis._
> 5. LCD reduced 120 Hz @469.20 MHz p-clock = NO.
> 6. LCD reduced 120 Hz @456.71 MHz p-clock = NO. (half values for front/back porch, sync width (vertical only) from test 5).
> 7. Manual 120hz @459.86 Mhz p-clock = NO. testing after posting (same as OC guide 120Hz Nvidia and AMD cards timing)
> 8. Manual 120 Hz @487.74 MHz p-clock = NO. (OC guide 120 Hz clockable memory, AMD cards only)
> 
> *Conclusion*: There is a sweet spot for 96, 110, and 120 it seems. Still not 100% sure since there are more factors I can't account for. Unless stated otherwise, NO means heavy flickering of image.
> 
> Dicking around tests:
> 2. LCD native 115 Hz for 463.26 MHz pixel clock = NO. flickering for white, blue, green. no noticable flickering on my current background and red. link to background screenshot
> 3. LCD reduced 115 Hz for 449.65 MHz = NO
> 
> edit: test 1,2,3 hypothesis
> edit: test 5, 7
> edit: test 4, 6 + conclusion + consolidated results
> edit: Further testing aka dicking around
> edit: consolidated results again + ordered the mess of a post I wrote
> edit 999: Found some info on the timings. Bolded the important part. Link


Sweet overview and testing, let us know how you managed with those timings of max oc . After all the pwm tests, you believe the crossover 2795 is pwm free?


----------



## BadRobot

I've take many pictures now and they all have a minimum of 3 lines. I feel like this is a good, low number to have. Pointing the camera at the screen, the lines are visibly separated. So I'm going to go with "No, it suffers from a little bit of PWM dimming." I've searched the Qnix/Xstar and this thread for images of how the their line looks and can't find any (probably because I'm tired). Also compared it to the TFT central pics (link) and it

Full brightness, stock CCC color profile, f.lux turned off, Chrome Version 45.0.2454.85 m, Firefox 39.0
OC 96Hz:


Spoiler: Yes







OC 110Hz:


Spoiler: Yes







OC120Hz: No :c
Banding: No
Frame skipping: No @96


Spoiler: No @96









Spoiler: No @110






PWM dimming: (edit) No

edit: Reddit is a great way of viewing many different images/colors quickly. I found that certain colors will flicker ever so slightly.


Spoiler: And this off-white/grey color makes some pixels flicker red (inside black outline)? I've gone through 50 images and another 50 gifs but only this one shows that. Weird ^^


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> I've take many pictures now and they all have a minimum of 3 lines. I feel like this is a good, low number to have. Pointing the camera at the screen, the lines are visibly separated. So I'm going to go with "No, it suffers from a little bit of PWM dimming." I've searched the Qnix/Xstar and this thread for images of how the their line looks and can't find any (probably because I'm tired). Also compared it to the TFT central pics (link) and it
> 
> Full brightness, stock CCC color profile, f.lux turned off, Chrome Version 45.0.2454.85 m, Firefox 39.0
> OC 96Hz:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Yes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OC 110Hz:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Yes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OC120Hz: No :c
> Banding: No
> Frame skipping: No @96
> 
> 
> Spoiler: No @96
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: No @110
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PWM dimming: A little? Doens't seem PWM free but is very little.
> 
> edit: Reddit is a great way of viewing many different images/colors quickly. I found that certain colors will flicker ever so slightly.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: And this off-white/grey color makes some pixels flicker red (inside black outline)? I've gone through 50 images and another 50 gifs but only this one shows that. Weird ^^


That color flickering is probably from too much OC, someone had the same experience when ocing too high with Crossover 2795 i think.

For the PWM, when you open up http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php?p=2 , press F11, point the phone cam(which takes photos) at the screen on lowest, half from max, and max brightness, does it flicker? like lines going from up down. I still dont know this for sure, it could use PWM at lowest frequency, while at half from max there could be no PWM, would be great if you could test. If it even uses PWM, at max brightness it should stay clear

http://i.imgur.com/Pcg2IPZ.png

The one on the right uses PWM, you can see that it flickers, those lines on the phone should be seen as going down or whatever









If the Crossover 2795 uses PWM, it changes a lot of things, as this monitor is advertised as flicker free, thats why we should test this and make this clear for everybody else


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> I've take many pictures now and they all have a minimum of 3 lines. I feel like this is a good, low number to have. Pointing the camera at the screen, the lines are visibly separated. So I'm going to go with "No, it suffers from a little bit of PWM dimming." I've searched the Qnix/Xstar and this thread for images of how the their line looks and can't find any (probably because I'm tired). Also compared it to the TFT central pics (link) and it
> 
> Full brightness, stock CCC color profile, f.lux turned off, Chrome Version 45.0.2454.85 m, Firefox 39.0
> OC 96Hz:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Yes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OC 110Hz:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Yes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OC120Hz: No :c
> Banding: No
> Frame skipping: No @96
> 
> 
> Spoiler: No @96
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: No @110
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PWM dimming: A little? Doens't seem PWM free but is very little.
> 
> edit: Reddit is a great way of viewing many different images/colors quickly. I found that certain colors will flicker ever so slightly.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: And this off-white/grey color makes some pixels flicker red (inside black outline)? I've gone through 50 images and another 50 gifs but only this one shows that. Weird ^^


Also, i asked dream-seller if the Crossover 2795 matte uses PWM and this is how it went:

Your previous message

Hello, does this item use PWM?(pulse width modulation)? Is it flicker free?

dream-seller:

Hello,
The answer to both of your questions.
YES.

Thanks

After his first answer i was like dafuq? it uses PWM and is flicker free? Could someone collaborate? can monitor use PWM and be flicker free?

This is how he answered:

New message from: dream-seller (18,767YellowShooting Star)
Hello,
Sorry but I'm not an expert of monitors and I don't even use them. I asked those questions and manufacturer said YES to both questions. So I don't know what to say..?

He probably doesnt even know what i asked but anway answer from the manufacter seemed everything just not clear answer


----------



## MenacingTuba

The Test UFO PWM test is meant to be observed, not captured on camera.


----------



## magedoge

It's nice that Dream-Seller answers at least to someone. I have left two questions; other few weeks ago and second one a week ago and still no answers. Guess I'll have to wait for green-sum sale to get this monitor with cheap price.


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magedoge*
> 
> It's nice that Dream-Seller answers at least to someone. I have left two questions; other few weeks ago and second one a week ago and still no answers. Guess I'll have to wait for green-sum sale to get this monitor with cheap price.


Yeah, anyway he doesnt know a thing about it, hes just a seller, or...he knows a lot and acts like hes just a seller







...


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> That color flickering is probably from too much OC, someone had the same experience when ocing too high with Crossover 2795 i think.
> 
> For the PWM, when you open up http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php?p=2 , press F11, point the phone cam(which takes photos) at the screen on lowest, half from max, and max brightness, does it flicker? like lines going from up down. I still dont know this for sure, it could use PWM at lowest frequency, while at half from max there could be no PWM, would be great if you could test. If it even uses PWM, at max brightness it should stay clear
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/Pcg2IPZ.png
> 
> The one on the right uses PWM, you can see that it flickers, those lines on the phone should be seen as going down or whatever
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the Crossover 2795 uses PWM, it changes a lot of things, as this monitor is advertised as flicker free, thats why we should test this and make this clear for everybody else


Okay. Then it is in my opinion that the Crossover 2795QHD does not use PWM dimming and it does not flicker at high or low brightness. I compared it to my other monitors and one does have horizontal lines appearing at low brightness. The other one doesn't have it. If it does have PWM like Dream-seller says from the manufacturer then it probably uses a good way of dealing with it.

I'm happy I bought this monitor







No idea how the Qnix/Xstar would have been like.


----------



## Blinkey

Can't decide between Crossover 2795 QHD PWM lottery or BenQ GW2765HT that 100% does not have any PWM









using PC heavily and quality monitor is a the most important thing for me


----------



## brucethemoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinkey*
> 
> Can't decide between Crossover 2795 QHD PWM lottery or BenQ GW2765HT that 100% does not have any PWM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> using PC heavily and quality monitor is a the most important thing for me


The higher refresh rate makes the Crossover worth it, IMHO.


----------



## Blinkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brucethemoose*
> 
> The higher refresh rate makes the Crossover worth it, IMHO.


but I dont play games like at all

sitting in front of 24" Asus monitor with PWM right now
and headache is very noticeable








afraid that same thing would happen with Crossover


----------



## brucethemoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinkey*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *brucethemoose*
> 
> The higher refresh rate makes the Crossover worth it, IMHO.
> 
> 
> 
> but I dont play games like at all
> 
> sitting in front of 24" Asus monitor with PWM right now
> and headache is very noticeable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> afraid that same thing would happen with Crossover
Click to expand...

It's still nice for videos. But the BenQ is the better choice if you don't watch a lot of TV/Movies/YouTube either.


----------



## brucethemoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinkey*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *brucethemoose*
> 
> The higher refresh rate makes the Crossover worth it, IMHO.
> 
> 
> 
> but I dont play games like at all
> 
> sitting in front of 24" Asus monitor with PWM right now
> and headache is very noticeable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> afraid that same thing would happen with Crossover
Click to expand...

Just found a review where someone used an oscilloscope to measure flicker, and the Crossover is truly flicker free:

http://playwares.com/dpreview/46398151#

This is at 0% brightness:


----------



## Blinkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brucethemoose*
> 
> Just found a review where someone used an oscilloscope to measure flicker, and the Crossover is truly flicker free:


Yes, it *was* flicker free
problem of this review lies here 03/31/2015 its a date of it
first batch was flicker free indeed
but after reading this whole thread it appears Koreans used same strategy as they did with Qnix
you make flicker free more or less good quality batches at first, then after model gets popular you cut costs and stick PWM into it

and now we are in a lottery since some are still flicker free and the rest are with PWM
I'm not implying, it's just my conclusion based on research I made on the Internet
and until we will get fresh legit tests from someone who just bought it
It cant be considered flicker free
since even some ebay sellers say that it has PWM


----------



## brucethemoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinkey*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *brucethemoose*
> 
> Just found a review where someone used an oscilloscope to measure flicker, and the Crossover is truly flicker free:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, it *was* flicker free
> problem of this review lies here 03/31/2015 its a date of it
> first batch was flicker free indeed
> but after reading this whole thread it appears Koreans used same strategy as they did with Qnix
> you make flicker free more or less good quality batches at first, then after model gets popular you cut costs and stick PWM into it
> 
> and now we are in a lottery since some are still flicker free and the rest are with PWM
> I'm not implying, it's just my conclusion based on research I made on the Internet
> and until we will get fresh legit tests from someone who just bought it
> It cant be considered flicker free
> since even some ebay sellers say that it has PWM
Click to expand...

Ah, that makes sense. Now I'm having second thoughts too









Is there any way to tell when a monitor was manufactured? BadRobot, if you find anything like that on your monitor, please let us know


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> That color flickering is probably from too much OC, someone had the same experience when ocing too high with Crossover 2795 i think.


Lucky for me, it's only for a very specific shade of gray







A gray that doesn't show up often in my shows.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brucethemoose*
> 
> Ah, that makes sense. Now I'm having second thoughts too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any way to tell when a monitor was manufactured? BadRobot, if you find anything like that on your monitor, please let us know


I'll have a look. I assume I need to open up the monitor? On the back it only has the standard sticker.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinkey*
> 
> Yes, it *was* flicker free
> problem of this review lies here 03/31/2015 its a date of it
> first batch was flicker free indeed
> but after reading this whole thread it appears Koreans used same strategy as they did with Qnix
> you make flicker free more or less good quality batches at first, then after model gets popular you cut costs and stick PWM into it
> 
> and now we are in a lottery since some are still flicker free and the rest are with PWM
> I'm not implying, it's just my conclusion based on research I made on the Internet
> and until we will get fresh legit tests from someone who just bought it
> It cant be considered flicker free
> since even some ebay sellers say that it has PWM


I don't have an oscilloscope so that's not possible. Guess I'll have to open it and see the actual panel.


----------



## Blinkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Guess I'll have to open it and see the actual panel.


would be awesome

tho do you have PWM or not ? and when did you buy yours ?


----------



## brucethemoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinkey*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Guess I'll have to open it and see the actual panel.
> 
> 
> 
> would be awesome
> 
> tho do you have PWM or not ? and when did you buy yours ?
Click to expand...

Robot recieved and tested it a few posts back, and that Crossover doesn't seem to have PWM.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinkey*
> 
> would be awesome
> 
> tho do you have PWM or not ? and when did you buy yours ?


I feel that it does not have PWM. Certainly doesn't flicker except for a very specific color grey due to 110Hz OC, which is great! I bought mine from Dream-seller on the 20th of august. So far no headaches, only eye strain due to staying up so late marveling at it. Too bad I could only get 120Hz through a fluke CRU restart. link

I'll have free time on wednesday evening (GMT+1). In the meanwhile, if there are any other tests I can do to help, let me know.


----------



## Blinkey




----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinkey*
> 
> Yes, it *was* flicker free
> problem of this review lies here 03/31/2015 its a date of it
> first batch was flicker free indeed
> but after reading this whole thread it appears Koreans used same strategy as they did with Qnix
> you make flicker free more or less good quality batches at first, then after model gets popular you cut costs and stick PWM into it
> 
> and now we are in a lottery since some are still flicker free and the rest are with PWM
> I'm not implying, it's just my conclusion based on research I made on the Internet
> and until we will get fresh legit tests from someone who just bought it
> It cant be considered flicker free
> since even some ebay sellers say that it has PWM


The thing is that that post and every one like it seems to all lead back to a SINGLE reddit user who claimed to have PWM and offered no proof. Nobody else has had any problems with it and several members of these forums have bought the monitor since then with no sign of PWM.


----------



## Blinkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Nobody else has had any problems with it


I would be glad if I was 100% wrong
not implying anything or calling anyone out, want to be 100% sure that I am wrong with evidence and not lucky batches
just want to remind:
when Qnix called that their QX2710 is flicker free it was like that in the first few batches
and then


link to review: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/qnix_qx2710.htm

What stops Crossover from doing the same trick ?
I just don't want myself or other people to be scammed


----------



## brucethemoose

It makes sense. I haven't noticed any flicker on my old Achieva Shimian, but it was pretty bad on later models.

But until we see more evidence, I'm giving Crossover the benefit of the doubt. I'm either ordering a Crossover or an Acer G257HU for someone else later this week, and I'll get them to run some tests if they choose the Crossover.


----------



## Blinkey

would be awesome if you could contribute to all our community in such way








if you don't mind would be cool to post where you bought it too
since it be might important batch wise


----------



## Advil000

I will gladly be another guinea pig. Ordered the [perfect] 2795 from dreamseller yesterday. If the PWM issue is still going when it arrives I'll try a few tests as well if it will help out.

Just wanted to join up on the forum and thank everyone for all the info on this thread. It has been invaluable.

This is going to be an interesting comparison for me. I'm coming from a BenQ XL2720Z that I just sold... way too early apparently. I'm very familiar with that monitor's advantages and the strobing which I'm going to miss a lot.

So this will be my foray into the polar opposite, far more image quality but slower panel. I'm super curious how this screen will look in games at 96-100hz.

The only reason I'm going to this panel for a while is simply because I can't justify playing panel lottery with $800 Acer IPS g-sync screens that should be perfect every time at that price. So this is a tide-over for the next year or so. 1440p, 100+hz, low input lag and a better looking panel were my absolute requirements this time around. The Crossover looks to be it.

We shall see in a week or two when it arrives if I regret it vs. the pure speed and motion clarity of the 1080p TN BenQ.


----------



## brucethemoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Advil000*
> 
> I will gladly be another guinea pig. Ordered the [perfect] 2795 from dreamseller yesterday. If the PWM issue is still going when it arrives I'll try a few tests as well if it will help out.
> 
> Just wanted to join up on the forum and thank everyone for all the info on this thread. It has been invaluable.
> 
> This is going to be an interesting comparison for me. I'm coming from a BenQ XL2720Z that I just sold... way too early apparently. I'm very familiar with that monitor's advantages and the strobing which I'm going to miss a lot.
> 
> So this will be my foray into the polar opposite, far more image quality but slower panel. I'm super curious how this screen will look in games at 96-100hz.
> 
> The only reason I'm going to this panel for a while is simply because I can't justify playing panel lottery with $800 Acer IPS g-sync screens that should be perfect every time at that price. So this is a tide-over for the next year or so. 1440p, 100+hz, low input lag and a better looking panel were my absolute requirements this time around. The Crossover looks to be it.
> 
> We shall see in a week or two when it arrives if I regret it vs. the pure speed and motion clarity of the 1080p TN BenQ.


Oh, the higher resolution + higher general IQ will feel WAY better than the BenQ. ULMB is good, but 96hz+ gaming still feels noticeably better than the average 60hz monitor... And backlight strobing gives me a headache anyway.

The sad thing is these Korean monitors have been un-matched for years. None of the big manufacturers will sell a 1440p IPS/VA 96hz+ monitor for less than $500


----------



## weaveR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brucethemoose*
> 
> The sad thing is these Korean monitors have been un-matched for years. None of the big manufacturers will sell a 1440p IPS/VA 96hz+ monitor for less than $500


Yeah asus sells their 144 hertz XB270HU for like $769.99 USD on ebay but they are 144 hertz out of the box so they're guaranteed to reach 144 hertz when korean monitors always just come with 60 hertz out of the box and it's luck of the draw how far it overclocks and if it breaks it's probably your own fault for pushing it further than it was intended especially being the korean panels are rejected panels from big manufactures I don't know if it's a good idea to overclock it I'm sure the koreans want you to do that because it means if it breaks after a year they get to take another $300 USD from you.


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Okay. Then it is in my opinion that the Crossover 2795QHD does not use PWM dimming and it does not flicker at high or low brightness. I compared it to my other monitors and one does have horizontal lines appearing at low brightness. The other one doesn't have it. If it does have PWM like Dream-seller says from the manufacturer then it probably uses a good way of dealing with it.
> 
> I'm happy I bought this monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No idea how the Qnix/Xstar would have been like.


Yeah, if it doesnt flicker on lower brightness when u point ur phone cam on the screen with white background, then it doesnt use pwm


----------



## lester007

so Acer have XB270HU and Asus MG279Q , it can be easily be mixed up


----------



## MenacingTuba

The 'PWM lottery' is a myth perpetuated by people who took pictures of the Test UFO PWM Test instead of reading the instructions, and one OCN member who used to slow of a shutter speed with TFT Centrals PWM test. Currently no evidence exists which proves that these use PWM, and all of the 1440p-4k Crossovers properly tested since 2012 are PWM free.


----------



## Blinkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The 'PWM lottery' is a myth


I don't deny it
yet you as an owner of Qnix QX2710
you must know the whole story behind them advertising flicker-free monitor and then blessing it with PWM after few PWM-free batches
it's all about cutting costs

and the goal of discussion in this thread is:
did Crossover cut costs like Qnix did ? or not?

And I truly wish its the latter
would buy Crossover right away myself


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinkey*
> 
> .


Qnix/X-Star is the only company which advertised a non-PWM free monitor (Qnix QX2710 True 10 with an AHVA panel) as PWM free. Crossover started advertising their monitors as Flicker Free this year, even though they've been selling Flicker Free IPS since they became available on eBay in Spring 2012. It's possible that Crossover has switched to PWM now and in the past, but there's no proof and it's unlikely given their track record.


----------



## MenacingTuba

delete


----------



## weaveR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lester007*
> 
> so Acer have XB270HU and Asus MG279Q , it can be easily be mixed up


Haha oops is that asus one a new one? I haven't even heard of it not really a fan of multi input screens though I think this one would be better and cheaper.


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Advil000*
> 
> I will gladly be another guinea pig. Ordered the [perfect] 2795 from dreamseller yesterday. If the PWM issue is still going when it arrives I'll try a few tests as well if it will help out.
> 
> Just wanted to join up on the forum and thank everyone for all the info on this thread. It has been invaluable.
> 
> This is going to be an interesting comparison for me. I'm coming from a BenQ XL2720Z that I just sold... way too early apparently. I'm very familiar with that monitor's advantages and the strobing which I'm going to miss a lot.
> 
> So this will be my foray into the polar opposite, far more image quality but slower panel. I'm super curious how this screen will look in games at 96-100hz.
> 
> The only reason I'm going to this panel for a while is simply because I can't justify playing panel lottery with $800 Acer IPS g-sync screens that should be perfect every time at that price. So this is a tide-over for the next year or so. 1440p, 100+hz, low input lag and a better looking panel were my absolute requirements this time around. The Crossover looks to be it.
> 
> We shall see in a week or two when it arrives if I regret it vs. the pure speed and motion clarity of the 1080p TN BenQ.


Im def interested in ur testings and findings regarding the crossover 2795, let us know how it went overall and that pwm test


----------



## magedoge

So now I finally got a response from Dream-Seller and they warned me that if they declare a lower price, customs might find it out and then I would have to pay even more. Thought that I would ask them to declare just a little bit lower price and also if they could change some of the cost to shipping fee so that customs wouldn't suspect the free shipping. Now I think I will order this from Dream-Seller since their price is so cheap.
I know that here has been discussions about pixel perfect models but I still have to ask once more that do you think it's worth the extra 20€ to order the perfect version from Dream-Seller? I guess I will be ordering my monitor this week and after I get it, I will happily answer questions and try to take some pictures of it.


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magedoge*
> 
> So now I finally got a response from Dream-Seller and they warned me that if they declare a lower price, customs might find it out and then I would have to pay even more. Thought that I would ask them to declare just a little bit lower price and also if they could change some of the cost to shipping fee so that customs wouldn't suspect the free shipping. Now I think I will order this from Dream-Seller since their price is so cheap.
> I know that here has been discussions about pixel perfect models but I still have to ask once more that do you think it's worth the extra 20€ to order the perfect version from Dream-Seller? I guess I will be ordering my monitor this week and after I get it, I will happily answer questions and try to take some pictures of it.


There are some people that think paying more for PP is worth it, others think its just a cash grab for the seller and i also lean towards the second mindset. Had two matte qnixes, glossy xtar(07 panel), yamakasi catleap 2b 120hz, all were PP monitors and they all had atleast 2 dead pixels except glossy xstar which was not PP lol, so its ur choice. I personally think that seller doesnt even open up the thing to check it, he just sells it as it comes from manufacturer, maybe with pixel peefect stick on it that manufacturer put on it, but i doubt even manufacturer checks this strictly, maybe someone 3lse could share with their opinion about pixel perfect, if its worth it


----------



## lester007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weaveR*
> 
> Haha oops is that asus one a new one? I haven't even heard of it not really a fan of multi input screens though I think this one would be better and cheaper.


i guess but asus is releasing another monitor with higher than 144hz.


----------



## Abadaman

Is here someone that has both crossover 2795/27qhd matte and qnix matte that could test the default color presets? (just take pics of the same image on both of em), id like to see how they look color wise compared to each other


----------



## Jaidev97

I bought the Crossover 2795QHD from dream-seller on 27/08/2015 for £202.90 and it arrived today 09/09/2015. But it was stuck in customs for 4 days so it caused the delay. I bought the non-pixel perfect model and can report I have no backlight bleed and no dead/stuck pixels. IMO its not worth paying extra for the pixel perfect version. Even at the lowest brightness I cannot notice any flickering (I am sensitive to backlight flickering) although I have no way of testing if it uses PWM Dimming. This is suggesting to me that the Crossover 2795QHD doesn't use PWM Dimming. And mine has a logo, not the Crossover words on the bezel.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaidev97*
> 
> I bought the Crossover 2795QHD from dream-seller on 27/08/2015 for £202.90 and it arrived today 09/09/2015. But it was stuck in customs for 4 days so it caused the delay. I bought the non-pixel perfect model and can report I have no backlight bleed and no dead/stuck pixels. IMO its not worth paying extra for the pixel perfect version. Even at the lowest brightness I cannot notice any flickering (I am sensitive to backlight flickering) although I have no way of testing if it uses PWM Dimming. This is suggesting to me that the Crossover 2795QHD doesn't use PWM Dimming. And mine has a logo, not the Crossover words on the bezel.


Good to hear. I'm still at work but planned to open up my monitor to check the panel for hints of a production date or batch number. It probably got stuck in customs because they couldn't determine the value of it for import tax. That **** happened to me and I had to send a reply later with the receipt or email printed.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> There are some people that think paying more for PP is worth it, others think its just a cash grab for the seller and i also lean towards the second mindset. Had two matte qnixes, glossy xtar(07 panel), yamakasi catleap 2b 120hz, all were PP monitors and they all had atleast 2 dead pixels except glossy xstar which was not PP lol, so its ur choice. I personally think that seller doesnt even open up the thing to check it, he just sells it as it comes from manufacturer, maybe with pixel peefect stick on it that manufacturer put on it, but i doubt even manufacturer checks this strictly, maybe someone 3lse could share with their opinion about pixel perfect, if its worth it


I got the regular model and got no dead pixels on arrival. Some people want guarantees but can they really get guarantees when it takes a week or more to receive then more weeks to return it and then wait even more to receive the replacement? I'd take the crossover lottery and save that money for a good DVI cable in case the other one doesn't cut it.

edit: If you're on the fence about PP or not, just get the regular version. Unless it's a big manufacturer like Samsung, LG, or Asus, where quality control is rechecked by many buyers, there are no guarantees.


----------



## Jaidev97

It's unlikely that you'll get dead pixels, as most people getting non pixel perfect are reporting they they have no dead pixels. I would suggest buying from sellers that don't open the box such as dream-seller to check the monitor's condition, as those sellers would probably keep the ones with no dead pixels for their pixel perfect versions, and give you one with a few stuck/dead pixels, unless you pay more for pixel perfect. Also, I have a question. In dream seller's description, it says "low blue light". Does this affect colour vibrancy in anyway?


----------



## Blinkey

Ok more or less we determined that it's still PWM free

next thing
is there anyone who experiencing low buzzing noise from their unit ?


----------



## BadRobot

Surprisingly easy. @weaveR @Abadaman @brucethemoose I used this guide (link).

Panel sticker: LS270WQ1 SL C1 (link)

4 screws in the back. Slowly unhooking panel from all sides.


Easy to do with a flat-head screwdriver


4 screws on the side of the panel but nothing too hard.

edit:

No wonder the other 4 buttons don't work lol

Same panel as the Dell U2713HM used in May 2013.

edit: @Blinkey, no not hearing any buzzing noise.

edit: ****... lost one screw to hold the panel in place xD

last edit: No problem. That screw didn't seem to matter. This was very easy. Monitor doing fine


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Surprisingly easy. @weaveR @Abadaman @brucethemoose I used this guide (link).
> 
> Panel sticker: LS270WQ1 SL C1 (link)
> 
> 4 screws in the back. Slowly unhooking panel from all sides.
> 
> 
> Easy to do with a flat-head screwdriver
> 
> 
> 4 screws on the side of the panel but nothing too hard.
> 
> edit:
> 
> No wonder the other 4 buttons don't work lol
> 
> Same panel as the Dell U2713HM used in May 2013.
> 
> edit: @]Blinkey[/@], no not hearing any buzzing noise.
> 
> edit: ****... lost one screw to hold the panel in place xD
> 
> last edit: No problem. That screw didn't seem to matter. This was very easy. Monitor doing fine


Beautiful.


----------



## soulcrates

Hmm.... Mine Panel is a LM270WQ1 SL C2.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulcrates*
> 
> Hmm.... Mine Panel is a LM270WQ1 SL C2.


Uh oh. The C2 is the newer version of the C1 though. 350 vs 300 cd/m2. W-LED vs GB-r-LED. TFTCentral link, click on 27-27.8" panels. The C1 seems to have 1.07b (8-bit+A-FRC) colors vs the 16.7m 8-bit of the C2. Both are still AH-IPS.

edit: LG uses a modification of WLED known as GB-r-LED. Read more here.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> Beautiful.


Per your request, some pics of various wallpapers. None exhibited any artifacts or flickering except for that last pic separate from the rest.


http://imgur.com/gGMBh




Spoiler: Images















You can't really see it but it was flickering with black lines when this wallpaper was like this. When it was stretched normally, it was fine.


----------



## TylerAD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Uh oh. The C2 is the newer version of the C1 though. 350 vs 300 cd/m2. W-LED vs GB-r-LED. TFTCentral link, click on 27-27.8" panels. The C1 seems to have 1.07b (8-bit+A-FRC) colors vs the 16.7m 8-bit of the C2. Both are still AH-IPS.
> 
> edit: LG uses a modification of WLED known as GB-r-LED. Read more here.
> Per your request, some pics of various wallpapers. None exhibited any artifacts or flickering except for that last pic separate from the rest.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/gGMBh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can't really see it but it was flickering with black lines when this wallpaper was like this. When it was stretched normally, it was fine.


Two Questions:
(1)So what is the better screen? Are we sure there are only two different versions.
(2)On the two different screens what does your front logo show? Is it the Cat face or the Name?


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TylerAD*
> 
> Two Questions:
> (1)So what is the better screen? Are we sure there are only two different versions.
> (2)On the two different screens what does your front logo show? Is it the Cat face or the Name?


We have almost no data on which one is better. The BG-r LED or whatever should be beter for reds, greens, and blues compared to WLED from the CL2. But honestly, as long as they both can reach 110 Hz with CRU on LCD native or reduced, they're fine in my book.

My screen has the winking cat face logo and is CL1. When did you buy your monitor and from who?


----------



## Sedolf

LM270WQ1-SLC1
LM270WQ1-SLC2

here it says both are WLED


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> We have almost no data on which one is better. The BG-r LED or whatever should be beter for reds, greens, and blues compared to WLED from the CL2. But honestly, as long as they both can reach 110 Hz with CRU on LCD native or reduced, they're fine in my book.
> 
> My screen has the winking cat face logo and is CL1. When did you buy your monitor and from who?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sedolf*
> 
> LM270WQ1-SLC1
> LM270WQ1-SLC2
> 
> here it says both are WLED


Interesting, we just found out that crossover 2795 may not come with the same panel. Sometimes it is better to stay skeptic, especially when you are dealing with korean sellers lol.

Tho i dont think it matters that much unless they are both pwm free and dont use a panel like glossy qnixes/xstars have nowadays(samsung pls ending with 07 which has washed out colors compared to matte qnix with 02).

From what i experienced matte qnix with 02 will always trump these ips panels color wise, colors on pls 02 are just more vivid, punchy and saturated, while colors on ips(ahips, s-ips...) may be better for color accuracy and photo editing

For example check this video comparing asus with samsung pls panel(dunno which one exactly) to dell with ips panel (probably using lg ah ips panel)






Just check @ 4:25

But hey, to hell with a bit deeper colors if all the qnixes/xstars use so low pwm that your eyes will bleed out and head will explode all around your room after watching the screen for more than 30 minutes (experienced this on my own skin, i could smoke weed everyday and wouldnt have that much bloodshot eyes as from glossy xstar 07 panel with pwm so low even my cat would start dancing thinking shes in a night club with all the stroboscopes blinking around (jk lol), but they use really low pwm...

Id just stick to pwm free Crossover and be happy that manufacturer cares about my health atleast


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sedolf*
> 
> LM270WQ1-SLC1
> LM270WQ1-SLC2
> 
> here it says both are WLED


I can't remember where I read it and it was very late at night. Thanks for correcting me


----------



## soulcrates

I bought mine around July from dreamseller. It came with the face logo.The thing that got me puzzle is that the label on the panel reads LM270WQ1 SLC2 but the T-Con reads LM270WQ1 SLC1.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulcrates*
> 
> I bought mine around July from dreamseller. It came with the face logo.The thing that got me puzzle is that the label on the panel reads LM270WQ1 SLC2 but the T-Con reads LM270WQ1 SLC1.


'

The what now? T-con? Do I have one of those too to check?


----------



## Geddoe

I asked green-sum about overclocking and PWM for this Crossover monitor:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-CROSSOVER-27QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-LG-IPS-2560X1440-QHD-Computor-Monitor-Matte-/141115538942

And he replied with:
This one does not overclock and is not considered "flicker-free"

I'm thinking of just going with green-sum's $250 glossy QNIX since legit Crossovers don't seem to be <$300. Is that a bad idea? I'm moving up from 23" 1080P so anything 1440p is an upgrade really.


----------



## Advil000

Everything I have read implies the current QNIX are PWM... so if you are ok with trading a lower price for PWM backlight then ok it should be comparable except for that.

I spend enough time every evening in front of my screen that I'm not willing to risk eyestrain to save $50. Or put another way I'll gladly risk $50 to hopefully get a screen that is easier on the eyes.

I suppose it might depend on how much time you spend in front of a screen every day. I spend entirely too much, so I try to be good to my eyesight whenever possible.


----------



## soulcrates

I think T-con board is the board behind the pannel where the ribbons and lvds are connected to.As for you checking it I don't know I was sweating balls afraid of breaking my monitor.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geddoe*
> 
> I asked green-sum about overclocking and PWM for this Crossover monitor:
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-CROSSOVER-27QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-LG-IPS-2560X1440-QHD-Computor-Monitor-Matte-/141115538942
> 
> And he replied with:
> This one does not overclock and is not considered "flicker-free"
> 
> I'm thinking of just going with green-sum's $250 glossy QNIX since legit Crossovers don't seem to be <$300. Is that a bad idea? I'm moving up from 23" 1080P so anything 1440p is an upgrade really.


From the messages I've seen, it seems that Dream-seller, green-sum, etc. don't know enough about their product and ask the manufactureres. They in turn either give out wrong information or nothing conclusive which leaves us very confused. What I do see is that they list the monitor as 350 cd/m^2 which suggests that it is the SLC2 panel (I have the SLC1 that should be 300cd/m^2). We need more peopel who bought their monitors recently to give opening their case a try. I have to do it again to check the T-Con panel and find out what it says on that instead of the panel itself.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Advil000*
> 
> Everything I have read implies the current QNIX are PWM... so if you are ok with trading a lower price for PWM backlight then ok it should be comparable except for that.
> 
> I spend enough time every evening in front of my screen that I'm not willing to risk eyestrain to save $50. Or put another way I'll gladly risk $50 to hopefully get a screen that is easier on the eyes.
> 
> I suppose it might depend on how much time you spend in front of a screen every day. I spend entirely too much, so I try to be good to my eyesight whenever possible.


I'm happy with the Crossover and note no difference in use between it and 3 other monitors I had before. I don't know how it would have gone had I bought the Qnix/X-star one.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulcrates*
> 
> I think T-con board is the board behind the pannel where the ribbons and lvds are connected to.As for you checking it I don't know I was sweating balls afraid of breaking my monitor.


I'll have a look again then. I wasn't too scared getting the panel up. I didn't disconnect the cables for fear of breaking those though. Those ribbon ones are notorious for being master difficulty in removal.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geddoe*
> 
> I asked green-sum about overclocking and PWM for this Crossover monitor:
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-CROSSOVER-27QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-LG-IPS-2560X1440-QHD-Computor-Monitor-Matte-/141115538942
> 
> And he replied with:
> This one does not overclock and is not considered "flicker-free"
> 
> I'm thinking of just going with green-sum's $250 glossy QNIX since legit Crossovers don't seem to be <$300. Is that a bad idea? I'm moving up from 23" 1080P so anything 1440p is an upgrade really.


My understanding of the 27QHD is that it depends on which one you get. The ones with S-IPS panels have PWM and do not overlclock well, the ones with AH-IPS panels are PWM free and OC is hit or miss.


----------



## Rhys93B

Mine arrived today. £33 in VAT and £13 to Parcelforce.

How do you make it swivel and tilt? Seems a silly question but it doesn't seem to be able to move. I also have a bit of backlight bleed but it's not too bad.No dead pixels here.


----------



## lester007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rhys93B*
> 
> Mine arrived today. £33 in VAT and £13 to Parcelforce.
> 
> How do you make it swivel and tilt? Seems a silly question but it doesn't seem to be able to move. I also have a bit of backlight bleed but it's not too bad.No dead pixels here.


its a fixed stand, get a standard vesa mount if you want that capability


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rhys93B*
> 
> Mine arrived today. £33 in VAT and £13 to Parcelforce.
> 
> How do you make it swivel and tilt? Seems a silly question but it doesn't seem to be able to move. I also have a bit of backlight bleed but it's not too bad.No dead pixels here.


You can tilt it - it's just a bit of a pain to get it right the first time around. There isn't any swivel function (not a lot of monitors, do, really?).


----------



## popinjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> Is here someone that has both crossover 2795/27qhd matte and qnix matte that could test the default color presets? (just take pics of the same image on both of em), id like to see how they look color wise compared to each other


If you find an image online that you want to see I will take a pic with it with both. I have a QNIX that is 6 months old and a brand new Crossover that I just got the other day.


----------



## Rhys93B

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> You can tilt it - it's just a bit of a pain to get it right the first time around. There isn't any swivel function (not a lot of monitors, do, really?).


I feel like I'm going to break it each time I try. Do I have to unscrew the base of the stand and tilt it and then reapply the screw?


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rhys93B*
> 
> I feel like I'm going to break it each time I try. Do I have to unscrew the base of the stand and tilt it and then reapply the screw?


No, you don't. What you can do is press it gently against the table then bend the panel portion backwards or forwards while holding the transparent neck area... do it a tad more than you think you might need... at least that's how I adjust mine.


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *popinjay*
> 
> If you find an image online that you want to see I will take a pic with it with both. I have a QNIX that is 6 months old and a brand new Crossover that I just got the other day.


That would be great if you could post some wallpapers on default color presets on both of em


----------



## Sjqnqo3876

edit


----------



## Advil000

Marccoc:

DVI-I and DVI-D are both equivalent. The "I" simply means it has those extra 4 pins around the bar, those are the pins that carry the analog VGA signal so you can use a DVI to VGA adapter if necessary. Otherwise, it's the same as DVI-D and accepts either cable.

Dual or single link is identified by whether or not it has the full grid of pins, or is missing the 2x3 set in the middle.

So yes, it should be compatible no problem.

Any modern video card from the last 5 or 6 years should be. I had my screen running on a 9800gt for a while on friday.


----------



## Advil000

Also, my monitor arrived on friday, which was ahead of the delivery estimate of monday. So less than a week from order to arrival! Some quick observations...

Packaging:
Screen came in it's factory box, not boxed or wrapped in anything else. It's a pretty decent box with decent hard foam on each side of the screen. There were two holes punched through the box on the screen side which had me freak out before I opened it. The screen is only maybe half an inch in on that side of the box. Luckily it did look like Dreamseller put a couple extra layers of thin bubble wrap on that side. If you are worried, maybe arranging to pay a few more bucks for more packaging would be worth it.

Dead Pixels:
The screen is perfect. Can't find any dead pixels or even sub-pixel issues. So at least paying for the [perfect] version wasn't a total waste.

Image Quality:
I havn't owned a good IPS screen before and it's crazy just how amazing this thing looks. The color, image quality and virtually unlimited viewing angle have me completely spoiled already. No TN panel I have ever seen gets anywhere close to this.

Speed:
Screen works perfect at 96hz or 100hz. I do get very occasional minor glitches at 110hz. Might be possible to adjust settings to clear it up, but I was only expecting 100hz anyway.
TestUFO showed what I consider a REMARKABLY low amount of ghosting at 96 or 100. I was assuming that when going to an IPS panel this would be the big trade-off. It's not. At 96hz it has better motion clarity than most TN panels I've used. I'd say from a seat of the pants quality perspective it's in the ball park of my old XL2720Z when the strobing feature was OFF. Nothing on earth touches the BenQ for motion clarity when the strobing is turned on, but this panel is very solid and very playable when overclocked. FAR better than I was expecting it to be based on what people say about IPS panels.

Played a few rounds of CS:GO Arms Race to test the ghosting and had no trouble winning the rounds.

Backlight Bleed / Glow: Must have gotten lucky. I would call it nearly perfect except for perhaps a tiny bit of glow in the lower left corner. It's impossible to notice unless looking at a fully black screen and looking for it.

PWM: Havn't done much testing yet, but I did do the phone camera test. I pointed the camera at it and adjusted the brightness through the entire range and got no flickering. Image was solid as a rock.


----------



## Sjqnqo3876

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## Advil000

There are two Crossover models that look nearly identical buy may or may not be. The 2795 QHD and the 27QHD.

If you look back over the whole thread some people who chose to get the less expensive 27QHD think they got the same guts as the 2795 QHD as their screens overclock fine. Others have said that the usually cheaper 27QHD is, according to spec and the sellers, potentially non-overclockable and may or may not use PWM dimming. So if you get one of those and it ends up not having the same parts, it's what you paid for so to speak. We may find out later than they are all the same. That would be great for everyone.

That's a different issue from what all of these screens detect as in Windows. They are all detected as "27QHD". My 2795 QHD has the cat logo on the front, but the back tag clearly says Crossover 2795 QHD. It was purchased from Dreamseller. In Windows, the device is detected as "27QHD".

Yes, that's a bit confusing.

Best advice I can give is to purchase from a seller and listing someone else has verified is selling the actual 2795 QHD and that it says overclockable somewhere in the description.

EDIT: I used this listing, as other have used it, and did get a good one. Your milage may vary of course: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/321719207934?hash=item4ae7f587fe


----------



## Sjqnqo3876

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----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Advil000*
> 
> There are two Crossover models that look nearly identical buy may or may not be. The 2795 QHD and the 27QHD.
> 
> If you look back over the whole thread some people who chose to get the less expensive 27QHD think they got the same guts as the 2795 QHD as their screens overclock fine. Others have said that the usually cheaper 27QHD is, according to spec and the sellers, potentially non-overclockable and may or may not use PWM dimming. So if you get one of those and it ends up not having the same parts, it's what you paid for so to speak. We may find out later than they are all the same. That would be great for everyone.
> 
> That's a different issue from what all of these screens detect as in Windows. They are all detected as "27QHD". My 2795 QHD has the cat logo on the front, but the back tag clearly says Crossover 2795 QHD. It was purchased from Dreamseller. In Windows, the device is detected as "27QHD".
> 
> Yes, that's a bit confusing.
> 
> Best advice I can give is to purchase from a seller and listing someone else has verified is selling the actual 2795 QHD and that it says overclockable somewhere in the description.
> 
> EDIT: I used this listing, as other have used it, and did get a good one. Your milage may vary of course: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/321719207934?hash=item4ae7f587fe


From my understanding it depends on which 27QHD you buy. There are two version, S-IPS, which does not OC well, if at all, and one with the same AH-IPS panel as the 2795QHD. With the latter your chances are pretty good of getting one that will OC. The listings for the 27QHD generally say in the title whether its the S-IPS or AH-IPS version.


----------



## Jaggar

Has anyone else run into your PC creating more than one profile for your monitor? Sometimes when I restart and I'm locked to 60fps only to find out I have a new profile. I delete them, or just add the 96hz option but I've upwards to 4 at one time. They keep coming back.


----------



## Sjqnqo3876

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----------



## Geddoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marccoc*
> 
> About those CrossOver 2795QHD AHIPS with *75hz Realclock* mention in their title.. those don't Overclock..
> 
> here's a reply I just received from bigcl othcraft:
> 
> * New Crossover 2795QHD AHIPS LED 27" Monitor 2560 x 1440 75Hz Realclock DVI-D*:
> 
> So make sure the word "overclock" is mentioned in description...


Three people have told me that their 27QHD AH-IPS monitors can overclock and don't have PWM flickering. It was specifically this monitor from green-sum, who specifically told me it doesn't overclock and may have flickering:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141115538942

They bought their monitors 2-3 months ago, so either there is a new batch that don't overclock or the sellers are very misinformed.


----------



## BadRobot

More pics from the inside of my monitor bought from Dream-seller 20th of august 2015. The TCon board is the Digital Wave thing. Only thing I could find on it was from another thread here of a dude selling it after he took it out of his Crossover 290M. The other one part doesn't give me any good results in google.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaggar*
> 
> Has anyone else run into your PC creating more than one profile for your monitor? Sometimes when I restart and I'm locked to 60fps only to find out I have a new profile. I delete them, or just add the 96hz option but I've upwards to 4 at one time. They keep coming back.


That is weird. I deleted the 60 Hz one and it didn't come back. Sitting on a comfy 110 with artifacting for a very specific grey color.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marccoc*
> 
> Can someone confirm my GPU's dual link DVI-I port (My GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti SC 2GB GDDR5) to be compatible with this monitor ? (Dual Link DVI-I , not -D)


Yes. It is


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulcrates*
> 
> Hmm.... Mine Panel is a LM270WQ1 SL C2.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TylerAD*
> 
> Two Questions:
> (1)So what is the better screen? Are we sure there are only two different versions.
> (2)On the two different screens what does your front logo show? Is it the Cat face or the Name?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulcrates*
> 
> I bought mine around July from dreamseller. It came with the face logo.The thing that got me puzzle is that the label on the panel reads LM270WQ1 SLC2 but the T-Con reads LM270WQ1 SLC1.


My T-Con reads DW290Q_4LVDS which returns the 21:9 Crossover 290M LG-IPS 2560x1080 monitor. So my panel is the LM270WQ1 SLC1, has the winking face logo, and I use another monitor's control parts lol There is not much else I can open up to check on, so this is all I can do for you guys.

edit: Bought from Dream-seller august 20th, 2015.


----------



## Sjqnqo3876

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----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marccoc*
> 
> To any OC.net mod reading this thread --> The *quote* feature is buggy. Quote's sub-quote are not showing up at all, only OP's first quote and Op's any quote sub-answers
> 
> *BadRobot =>* While you have it all open now, will you take the opportunity to remove the AG coating to make it crystal clear glossy ? (would be a good move IMO)


I noticed it doesnt do quotes in quotes but it'd make a post much longer if it did.

As for hte AG coating, naaa. I looked up a guide and that's taking it a step into the territory I don't want to risk being in. The monitor looks great color-wise and the coating might be useful when I change the position of my desk in the future.


----------



## soulcrates

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> More pics from the inside of my monitor bought from Dream-seller 20th of august 2015. The TCon board is the Digital Wave thing. Only thing I could find on it was from another thread here of a dude selling it after he took it out of his Crossover 290M. The other one part doesn't give me any good results in google.
> 
> 
> 
> That is weird. I deleted the 60 Hz one and it didn't come back. Sitting on a comfy 110 with artifacting for a very specific grey color.
> Yes. It is


Thanks. Same internals as mine.








I was also able to overclock it to 110, but 120 gave me artifacts.


----------



## magedoge

So now that Dream-Seller started to answer my questions I finally got to make a deal with them. Ordered this one today and I'm very eager to see what I will get. Guess it will be a "tiny" step upwards from my almost 10 years old 22" Acer.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/221826459725?hash=item33a5e3284d

Hopefully it was worth it to buy from them since they offered the cheapest price. I will try to get some info here also when I get my monitor, just hoping it wont stay at customs very long.


----------



## Sjqnqo3876

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## Sjqnqo3876

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----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marccoc*
> 
> If any of you are interested in one of these Overlord Tempest X270OC (glossy display !), PM me .. i'm ordering a bunch


I got the 1st one if I'm assuming it's the same source (tested last Thur) ... I can confirm it is PWM free but it's for "True Glossy Aficionados" only ... your going to love it! ... see my Monitor specs


----------



## Sjqnqo3876

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----------



## popinjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> That would be great if you could post some wallpapers on default color presets on both of em


two wallpaper images I found randomly online. hope this helps


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *popinjay*
> 
> two wallpaper images I found randomly online. hope this helps


Thanks, they both look great color wise, couldnt tell a difference,does it look the same to u by the eye also?


----------



## popinjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> Thanks, they both look great color wise, couldnt tell a difference,does it look the same to u by the eye also?


To me they do, yes. Somebody else could probably tell the difference, but they both look great to me


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magedoge*
> 
> So now that Dream-Seller started to answer my questions I finally got to make a deal with them. Ordered this one today and I'm very eager to see what I will get. Guess it will be a "tiny" step upwards from my almost 10 years old 22" Acer.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/221826459725?hash=item33a5e3284d
> 
> Hopefully it was worth it to buy from them since they offered the cheapest price. I will try to get some info here also when I get my monitor, just hoping it wont stay at customs very long.


Hey there. I am also very interested in this monitor. What kind of deal did you get? PM me if you want so I can get a deal as well. Seems like a great monitor. The information on thread is really good.


----------



## wickedout

Well I pulled the trigger after reading the reviews. Hopefully this monitor will be fine for my gaming and for my everyday use. And for my benchmarks. Building me a new rig so all I was missing was a decent high end monitor. Can't wait to get it.


----------



## Sjqnqo3876

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----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> Thanks, they both look great color wise, couldnt tell a difference,does it look the same to u by the eye also?


interesting, there should be subtle differences in the color gamut of qnix matte producing a bit darker and punchier colors on certain shades if it is matte qnix with samsung pls panel ending with 02, but its not much


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marccoc*
> 
> Anyone here attempted to remove the matte coating from one of these ?


I'm not sure it's worth the risk tbh. I have mine beside my old Dell 2740L (glossy) and I can't tell any difference in color/clarity etc. In fact, the 2795 is more punchy (although my Dell is set at 75% contrast).


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> I'm not sure it's worth the risk tbh. I have mine beside my old Dell 2740L (glossy) and I can't tell any difference in color/clarity etc. In fact, the 2795 is more punchy (although my Dell is set at 75% contrast).


Well the fact your 2795 matte is 1440p vs your Dell S274OL glossy 1080p should tell you a lot right there ... If a glossy 1080p looks the same as your matte 1440p "clearly" (pun) imagine how good your 1440p would look if it were glossy! ... There is a HUGE difference between 1080p and 1440p in all aspects!


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Well the fact your 2795 matte is 1440p vs your Dell S274OL glossy 1080p should tell you a lot right there ... If a glossy 1080p looks the same as your matte 1440p "clearly" (pun) imagine how good your 1440p would look if it were glossy! ... There is a HUGE difference between 1080p and 1440p in all aspects!


No need to be condescending. Those are my views... if you think there's something wrong with that... you're free to that. Demanding everyone takes your view... well we didn't go back to the middle ages did we?









Unless there is 1440p based content, the 2795 isn't "clearer" than the glossy - you can't see what isn't there. If you insist otherwise, sure.

And I'd be happy, if you'd be the first to remove the AG coating to show the "HUGE" superiority.

Edit: reread what you're saying. You kind of mistook what I was saying... I was referring to colours and graphics... of course the 1440p has more resolution - I'd think that would be obvious? Anyways, it would only be fair to compare those on the same resolution hence the earlier comment. Feel free to dismantle to whatever you want it to mean.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> Hey there. I am also very interested in this monitor. What kind of deal did you get? PM me if you want so I can get a deal as well. Seems like a great monitor. The information on thread is really good.


I bought it from Dream-seller for $316 (427 with import tax). Delivered to the Netherlands. Got to 96 and 110Hz. No PWM or banding. Flickering/artifacts only for a very specific shade of grey (rarely seen). Great color though slightly darker/deeper looking than my other monitors which is probably due to the matte coating.

Settings I used in CRU
0. Stock 60 Hz = YES thumb.gif
1. LCD standard 96 Hz @393.51 MHz p-clock = YES thumb.gif
2. LCD native 110 Hz @443.12 MHz p-clock = YES thumb.gif


----------



## popinjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> interesting, there should be subtle differences in the color gamut of qnix matte producing a bit darker and punchier colors on certain shades if it is matte qnix with samsung pls panel ending with 02, but its not much


I haven't taken apart the monitor to remove the stand (as you can see) so I don't know if my qnix is 02 or 07 panel. Like I said though, I am not too picky about small differences and barely notice any myself. The biggest thing I notice is the shades of grey. For example the border around the white text box that I am typing in right now on this website is much more pronounced or noticeable to me on the Crossover whereas the border blends in more with the white text box on the qnix. I'm not even sure which is better, but that is just an observation and I am sure they could be matched by playing with contrast and white/grey settings.


----------



## Sjqnqo3876

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----------



## Blinkey

In Canada Crossover will cost me same money as BenQ GW2765HT
Should I pull the trigger on Benq ?


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marccoc*
> 
> When I OCed my Acer, I noticed reduced blue color sharpness (and most likely other colors) .. If you look carefully do you notice color/sharpness quality decrease when OCing yours ?


Not that I can notice. I pulled this test (http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php) across all three monitors and they all display colors about the same way other than difference in brightness/contrast.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinkey*
> 
> In Canada Crossover will cost me same money as BenQ GW2765HT
> Should I pull the trigger on Benq ?


The Benq does 60Hz default and probably can't overclock. The crossover can, if you're lucky, reach 110 with 96 Hz being the usual refresh rate people here are getting. I'd put my money in the crossover.


----------



## Advil000

Just did the frameskipping test on my 2795 QHD from Dream-Seller.

Ran it the way Test-UFO says, 1/5 shutter.

I took half a dozen photos and checked them all.

At 96hz I get 19 uniform grey squares. Which is correct. 1/5 of 96 is 19.2 frames.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> I bought it from Dream-seller for $316 (427 with import tax). Delivered to the Netherlands. Got to 96 and 110Hz. No PWM or banding. Flickering/artifacts only for a very specific shade of grey (rarely seen). Great color though slightly darker/deeper looking than my other monitors which is probably due to the matte coating.
> 
> Settings I used in CRU
> 0. Stock 60 Hz = YES thumb.gif
> 1. LCD standard 96 Hz @393.51 MHz p-clock = YES thumb.gif
> 2. LCD native 110 Hz @443.12 MHz p-clock = YES thumb.gif


Mine shipped today. It's being shipped from Carson, Ca. Paid $265 no tax and free shipping. Love it. Can't wait to get it. Thanks for the tip!


----------



## becritical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgtsloth*
> 
> Question about this monitor. Is it true that it cannot be run on Intel HD graphics? I ask because I am worried what will happen if my GPU kicks the can for whatever reason.
> 
> Has anyone tried an HDMI to DVI converter? Just curious to know if it would work in any way. Thanks.


I am also wondering about this, has anyone ACTUALLY tried it, or can someone who has the monitor and a laptop with HDMI try it?


----------



## becritical

What is the difference between the matte and glossy models? Is glossy, semi-glossy? What's the cheapest price for the hdmi version?


----------



## BadRobot

/r/battlefield4 has a snowfall header that causes my monitor to flicker :| https://gfycat.com/AgedTalkativeDassie kind of hard to see but when the header is in view, it flickers. when it isn't, everything is fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becritical*
> 
> I am also wondering about this, has anyone ACTUALLY tried it, or can someone who has the monitor and a laptop with HDMI try it?


When I get a chance, I'll try mini-DP to DL DVI converter on my brother's video card. I don't have the right ports or cables. HDMI > SL DVI and some DVI to VGA converters but nothing useful. With an active adapter, it'll probably work but I don't remember if anyone here posted a success/failure.


----------



## Advil000

I havn't looked up the technical reason why, but I tried the screen at my work when it arrived. On a modern G3258 Intel CPU with Intel integrated. DVI out.

It did NOT work. I put an ancient 9800GT card in the system and it came right up.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Advil000*
> 
> I havn't looked up the technical reason why, but I tried the screen at my work when it arrived. On a modern G3258 Intel CPU with Intel integrated. DVI out.
> 
> It did NOT work. I put an ancient 9800GT card in the system and it came right up.


That's because the cpu supports DVI to 1920x1200 @60hz max on DVI which is single link. Dual link can do 2560x1600 @60hz which is what the 9800GT has. That's why it doeesn't work with your cpu.

edit: Your motherboard is also a problem if you want to use the iGPU. low/mid end boards won't have dual link DVI on it. Oh and the 9800GT beats the Intel HD graphics in performance lol


----------



## becritical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> /r/battlefield4 has a snowfall header that causes my monitor to flicker :| https://gfycat.com/AgedTalkativeDassie kind of hard to see but when the header is in view, it flickers. when it isn't, everything is fine.
> When I get a chance, I'll try mini-DP to DL DVI converter on my brother's video card. I don't have the right ports or cables. HDMI > SL DVI and some DVI to VGA converters but nothing useful. With an active adapter, it'll probably work but I don't remember if anyone here posted a success/failure.


thank you I look forward to it


----------



## sgtsloth

What are the benefits of the crossover over this Xstar monitor on sale (despite perfect pixel guarantee)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932579690

Is AH-IPS that mush better than PLS?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgtsloth*
> 
> What are the benefits of the crossover over this Xstar monitor on sale?


More accurate and vibrant colours, faster pixel response times (less colour streaking and smearing), no PWM induced blur, no possible PWM induced head-aches and/or eye strain and no PWM induced flicker. The only downside the Crossover has it that it will look marginally less clear since it is matte.


----------



## becritical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> More accurate and vibrant colours, faster pixel response times (less colour streaking and smearing), no PWM induced blur, no possible PWM induced head-aches and/or eye strain and no PWM induced flicker. The only downside the Crossover has it that it will look marginally less clear since it is matte.


What about this? It says glossy http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-27QHD-IPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-S-IPS-PC-Monitor-Glossy-/111179087780?hash=item19e2ca3fa4

Is it semi-glossy?

Is there a crossover with HDMI?


----------



## Sjqnqo3876

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----------



## Sjqnqo3876

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----------



## wickedout

In regards to matte coating vs. glossy coating. The 27 Pefect pixel vs. the non perfect pixel 27 QHD. This is from the seller. I got my 27 QHD monitor yesterday.

Hello,

Thank you for contacting us.

You'll receive a stand as shown in the pictures in the Description. Both monitors are the same except this one is a non-perfect pixel version of this model. Technical specs are the same.

Thank you.


----------



## Sjqnqo3876

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----------



## Blinkey

How long do this Korean monitors last?
I'm worried since they use custom driver boards


----------



## xtravagent

hey guys just got a perfect pixel from greensum. oc'd right away to 96 and everythings running great no dead pixels

how does this look for backlight bleed / ips glow. Is it meant to be like this? The brightness was a few notches above the lowest, but I turned it down abit and seems to have improved



http://imgur.com/zXZHS


I can see alot of bleeding at the top, but the bottom corners can get annoying in dark situations during games or movies though its not too bad, I can live with it. What do you guys think?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becritical*
> 
> What about this? It says glossy http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-27QHD-IPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-S-IPS-PC-Monitor-Glossy-/111179087780?hash=item19e2ca3fa4
> 
> Is it semi-glossy?
> 
> Is there a crossover with HDMI?


Wow, here we go again ... same nonsense we had with the QNIX's years ago!









That 27QHD above looks like the older S-IPS panel with the "old" Tempered Glass covering (see specs in pic below), worst of both worlds comparing true glossy vs matte ... Who knows if it will overclock and who knows if it is PWM free?








No HDMI ... multi-inputs do not reliably OC without dropping frames!

I'll say it again ... stay with the 2795 model if you want to have piece of mind!









_Item Description
LG - IPS panel (Ultra Thin Tempered Glass)_



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marccoc*


THIS^^^^ LoL









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xtravagent*
> 
> hey guys just got a perfect pixel from greensum. oc'd right away to 96 and everythings running great no dead pixels
> 
> how does this look for backlight bleed / ips glow. Is it meant to be like this? The brightness was a few notches above the lowest, but I turned it down abit and seems to have improved
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/zXZHS
> 
> 
> I can see alot of bleeding at the top, but the bottom corners can get annoying in dark situations during games or movies though its not too bad, I can live with it. What do you guys think?


"IF?" that is what your eyes are seeing ... I wouldn't accept it! BUT camera phone pics of IPS glow/BLB can over-exaggerate the severeness of the problem.


----------



## Killadelphia

Hey guys I have been looking at this monitor and reading through this thread over the last week. I was wondering if anyone had any advice on what the picture looks like compared to my current monitor (which I love, but want to step up to 1440p), which is the Samsung S24D590L. I know this monitor uses an LG AH-IPS panel and I found this comparison video of my monitor next to an LG with an AH-IPS panel (



). Can I expect the same kind of picture out of this panel as the LG one in the video? I am a little iffy because black levels are important to me, and the picture looks much better to me on the left monitor (my current monitor) than the LG one. I don't want a downgrade in picture quality and I am wondering if this monitor might actually be one. Thanks.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xtravagent*
> 
> hey guys just got a perfect pixel from greensum. oc'd right away to 96 and everythings running great no dead pixels
> 
> how does this look for backlight bleed / ips glow. Is it meant to be like this? The brightness was a few notches above the lowest, but I turned it down abit and seems to have improved
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/zXZHS
> 
> 
> I can see alot of bleeding at the top, but the bottom corners can get annoying in dark situations during games or movies though its not too bad, I can live with it. What do you guys think?


With camera, that's the same I see. Wihtout, I don't see BLB.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marccoc*
> 
> I feel like I'll be the first one to attempt a Matte Coating removal on this one.... unless I'm unaware of any already attempted shot


Good luck!







Show us before and after pics.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Wow, here we go again ... same nonsense we had with the QNIX's years ago!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That 27QHD above looks like the older S-IPS panel with the "old" Tempered Glass covering (see specs in pic below), worst of both worlds comparing true glossy vs matte ... Who knows if it will overclock and who knows if it is PWM free?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No HDMI ... multi-inputs do not reliably OC without dropping frames!
> 
> I'll say it again ... stay with the 2795 model if you want to have piece of mind!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _Item Description
> LG - IPS panel (Ultra Thin Tempered Glass)_
> 
> 
> THIS^^^^ LoL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "IF?" that is what your eyes are seeing ... I wouldn't accept it! BUT camera phone pics of IPS glow/BLB can over-exaggerate the severeness of the problem.


I think folks new to this thread should really read what TomcatV just wrote on what to pick. If you're interested in a reasonably high chance at overclocking to ~96Hz the 2795 is the pick... whether you think the 50 or so dollars is worth the gamble with the AH-IPS version of the 27QHD is up to you.

Some updates on my end... I decided to upgrade my video card (from a HD6950 hacked as a 6970... to a GTX 970) and my refresh rate overclock has dropped from ~110Hz to ~105Hz. So it seems the video cards may play a factor in how well your monitor overclocks go. With the GTX 970 a certain portion of the screen has a vertical line/artifact on the left part of the screen at anything above 105Hz. This only shows up on the CRU download page (http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU)... I guess that shade of grey does special things?







In any case, after aprroximately 3-4 hours of uninstalling/reinstalling drivers... I'm no longer in denial heh.

On the upside, the annoying issue I had where this display wouldn't scale (i.e stretch to full screen) on any other resolution other than native vertical resolution (1440p) is sorted.

@xtravagent: My monitor had that amount of BLB also... I didn't want to take the chance to ship back and get another monitor with dead/stuck pixels instead... so I just opened it up and twisted the metal frame out a wee bit... Now, the irregular bleed at the top is totally gone, while my right bottom corner has the teeniest amount of bleed, but otherwise it's better than the rest of the monitors here... It took me 20 mins and I was just being very careful as it was the first time for me.


----------



## xtravagent

@rissie its just the bottom corners that are bothering me at the moment. Maybe I'm not used to it but it just seems like really excessive glow during general use in games or watching videos etc.

Would you recommend opening it up and what do you mean by twisting the metal frame out? I've seen a few videos but any specific things you'd suggest?


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xtravagent*
> 
> @rissie its just the bottom corners that are bothering me at the moment. Maybe I'm not used to it but it just seems like really excessive glow during general use in games or watching videos etc.
> 
> Would you recommend opening it up and what do you mean by twisting the metal frame out? I've seen a few videos but any specific things you'd suggest?


I regretted not fiddling with mine at the bottom right corner - but only because the BLB at the top of mine was really bad. Essentially, what is causing the bleed is the metal frame that's holding and protecting the panel. When that metal frame is putting too much pressure on the panel it causes the bleed. Think of it this way... when you press the panel with your fingers gently, the area lightens up... this is what the bleed is (at least it is on mine). Once you unscrew the four screws at the back, pull out the bezel (slowly and carefully), you'll see the panel mounted in a metal frame that's fitted snugly into the back of the monitor.

When you get to that state, there will be another 4 (? I can't remember exactly) screws that hold that metal frame down to the monitor with metal brackets on both sides. Once you remove those screws, the panel and the metal frame comes out fairly easily. There are a couple of latches on that frame that allows you to open it like a window. This is the frame that requires a bit of twisting. You twist the side of the frame that's touching the panel outwards (away from the panel) softly. Don't bend the frame.... twist it. I actually overdid mine in some parts so what happens is when you put it back together, there will be a gap between the plastic bezel and the panel (because the metal frame is now pushing outwards further away from the panel). I haven't found this to matter as I don't notice the extra gap at all.

I suggest doing this on a very large table, or if that's not available, on a large space on the floor. I used a couple of towels to level the components as I pulled it apart without taking it out of the back of the monitor. Just go slow - you'll find that it isn't hard once you figure out the mechanics. If you're forgetful, please take a few pictures and lay out the components in an orderly fashion as you remove them.

Hope it helps? I can't answer for you if it's worth taking apart to attempt to remove BLB. I figured I rather that than possibly getting another panel with stuck/dead pixels.

EDIT: One more thing... are you sure you're looking at the monitor perpendicular? If it's at an angle, it's possible that it's the IPS glow, rather than actual bleed. Because this monitor has no height adjustment, unless you put something below it... you'll tend to look at the bottom corners at a much steeper angle than normal.


----------



## xtravagent

thanks for the info, I might try it soon. And yeah I'm looking at it straight on.

Another thing is that I had .flux on so it made everything sort of darker, but after turning it off it seems better


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xtravagent*
> 
> thanks for the info, I might try it soon. And yeah I'm looking at it straight on.
> 
> Another thing is that I had .flux on so it made everything sort of darker, but after turning it off it seems better


Yep. Same here. I decided to just deal with it because I much prefer to have less strained eyes lol


----------



## xtravagent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Yep. Same here. I decided to just deal with it because I much prefer to have less strained eyes lol


By dealing with it you meant opening it up?


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xtravagent*
> 
> By dealing with it you meant opening it up?


No. I just kept flux going







I don't mind the darker colors.


----------



## mrgamer81

Hi all, is it worth paying extra for the pixel perfect?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgamer81*
> 
> Hi all, is it worth paying extra for the pixel perfect?


Tough question. Remember, these panels are not the A+ grade that are used by premium brands for their top displays. They have some minor imperfection that prevents them from making the top grade, so may be classed as A- for example. These 'minor imperfections' are by and large not easily noticeable, but may include dead pixels, uniformity issues, bent or warped frames that may contribute to light bleed, or other minor defects.

If one of these panels does not have dead pixels, then there was another reason it did not make the grade. Dead pixels are not easy to spot on 27" 1440p panels (vs 1080p for example). Personally I would rather have a couple dead pixels rather than uniformity or other problems the panel may have that prevented from making the grade. So tough call I think.


----------



## Bryanud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Tough question. Remember, these panels are not the A+ grade that are used by premium brands for their top displays. They have some minor imperfection that prevents them from making the top grade, so may be classed as A- for example. These 'minor imperfections' are by and large not easily noticeable, but may include dead pixels, uniformity issues, bent or warped frames that may contribute to light bleed, or other minor defects.
> 
> If one of these panels does not have dead pixels, then there was another reason it did not make the grade. Dead pixels are not easy to spot on 27" 1440p panels (vs 1080p for example). Personally I would rather have a couple dead pixels rather than uniformity or other problems the panel may have that prevented from making the grade. So tough call I think.


I think this is something a lot of people here forget or don't realize. These are A- panels. They aren't perfect. Something is less than ideal. Ligtbleed, pixel issues, uniformity - whatever the criteria for adding these all up exists, these panels met them to notch them down a peg.

Dead pixels are probably the most well known defect, so they get the most attention. Then light bleed. Funny enough nobody seems to talk about uniformity - both color and brightness.

To answer that guy's question though - absolutely not. Pixel perfect is practically a scam. It's not a pre-inspection, just a guarantee. My "pixel perfext" had clearly never been opened. However this guarantee is dumb since these panels are high enough quality that they won't have more than 2 pixel defects anyway. If they do, pixel perfect just means they will cover the cost of shipping it back.

It might be worth it for peace of mind, but I'd just take the odds which are waaaay in your favor. These dealers wouldn't offer pixel perfect if it didn't make them money.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bryanud*
> 
> I think this is something a lot of people here forget or don't realize. These are A- panels. They aren't perfect. Something is less than ideal. Ligtbleed, pixel issues, uniformity - whatever the criteria for adding these all up exists, these panels met them to notch them down a peg.
> 
> Dead pixels are probably the most well known defect, so they get the most attention. Then light bleed. Funny enough nobody seems to talk about uniformity - both color and brightness.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> To answer that guy's question though - absolutely not. Pixel perfect is practically a scam. It's not a pre-inspection, just a guarantee. My "pixel perfext" had clearly never been opened. However this guarantee is dumb since these panels are high enough quality that they won't have more than 2 pixel defects anyway. If they do, pixel perfect just means they will cover the cost of shipping it back.
> 
> It might be worth it for peace of mind, but I'd just take the odds which are waaaay in your favor. These dealers wouldn't offer pixel perfect if it didn't make them money
> 
> 
> .


Yes, but they are not all A- panels ... a 27" panel is not made or graded individually from the factory, they are cut from large sheets (wish I could find the vid) that are pre-graded/binned as "lots" marked as A+ / A / A- / B etc. So even though a lot is marked A- there could be several A/A+ panels within it, so yes you can get a perfect A+ panel but it is not guaranteed or warranted as such. ... Just as an A+ lot could also have some lesser quality "defective" panels within it ... just take a look at the Acer XB270HU ... AU Optronics seems to have a terrible QC scheme. AND A- batches can even have B or even less quality panels within and these are usually sold as "Off-Grade" panels.









Crossover does not individually check for "perfect pixel" despite what their ads might imply









Oooops ... I meant Dream-seller / green-sum


----------



## Bryanud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Yes, but they are not all A- panels ... a 27" panel is not made or graded individually from the factory, they are cut from large sheets (wish I could find the vid) that are pre-graded/binned as "lots" marked as A+ / A / A- / B etc. So even though a lot is marked A- there could be several A/A+ panels within it, so yes you can get a perfect A+ panel but it is not guaranteed or warranted as such. ... Just as an A+ lot could also have some lesser quality "defective" panels within it ... just take a look at the Acer XB270HU ... AU Optronics seems to have a terrible QC scheme. AND A- batches can even have B or even less quality panels within and these are usually sold as "Off-Grade" panels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Crossover does not individually check for "perfect pixel" despite what their ads might imply


That makes sense. I certainly think it's possible that some get perfect panels. And I definitely know from experience you can get some bad screens with big brands. Although, I'll stand by my suggestion that some of these "perfect panels" with no pixel problems or bleed have less than ideal color or backlight uniformity. I don't think people are as perceptive to these issues as the others.

Although I'd suspect that build quality plays a role with the acer issues. I'm no expert but I'd think consistantly major backlight bleed in the bottom right corner would suggest that. I'd think more variable problems would suggest defects with the panels themselves.

Also I don't think Crossover has anything to do with Perfect Pixel. Isn't that something the dealers started?


----------



## ManImCool

Hi all, longtime lurker. Been pouring through this thread and the Official QNIX 1440 thread. I'm looking to upgrade my super old 1600 x 900 60Hz LG monitor. This monitor will be primarily be for twitch based gaming (CS:GO), so input lag is a priority. I would prefer a glossy over matte as it will be in a dark room, but I will also eventually buy a 4K monitor for non-gaming and that will definitely be glossy, so matte on this particular purchase is not a deal-breaker, so here goes -

I think I've narrowed it down to 3 choices:

Crossover 2795 from this listing

QNIX QX2710 from this listing

QNIX QX2414 from this listing

If my reading comprehension is passable, I have deduced the following:

I believe the safe bet would be to spend the extra on the Crossover 2795. For my extra $ I get guaranteed no PWM, and most likely a higher quality screen. It will also likely OC to 96Hz. Unfortunately, it only comes in matte, and I want glossy.

If I want to save money, I go with the listed QX2710. It is glossy, but not as high of quality as the 2795, whatever that means, and per the 2710 FAQ it says to not buy this monitor for twitch gaming. Is that true with the linked QX2710?

Finally, I could just get the 144Hz QX2414 but it's a smaller screen and only 1080p. I really don't want 1080 and that small of a screen, but if the overclock wizards in here tell me to avoid the first 2 screens for twitch gaming, then I will heed your wise instructions.

For FPS gaming, am I to avoid QNIX QX2710 for the motionblur alone? Is it really that bad to game on IPS (2795) or do I really have to do the 2414 TN panel?

Thank you!


----------



## Sjqnqo3876

edit


----------



## ManImCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marccoc*
> 
> I like the triple T typo in the auction's title.. so professional.. im sold
> *and those 100 yard-height picture's description .. inspire me too..


Typos aside, I was under the impression that green-sum and dream-seller were basically the same company and are both reputable sellers on ebay. Are they not?


----------



## Blinkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManImCool*
> 
> are both reputable sellers on ebay. Are they not?


yes they are

also if you going QNIX way -
you are buying PWM based monitor
so if you don't want PWM Crossover is your only choice out of 3


----------



## ManImCool

If I ignore the PWM factor for a second in order to still consider the QNIXs... how are the options up against each other as a FPS gaming monitor? When it comes to input lag and milliseconds and the sort my "expertise" really starts to dwindle. I have no idea why, if any, of these monitors are ok or not ok for twitch gaming.

Additionally, I forgot about my 4th option, this Crossover 27QHD. Would this be the panel to get if I want non-PLS but with glossy? And again, how would this stack up against the others for my gaming needs?


----------



## Iceshot

Dream Seller on Ebay has a $6 USD more expensive variant of the 2795QHD. The only change in wording between the two ad's is "low bluelight". What I cannot discern is if it means a less eye burning blue power indicator led or it has something to do with the monitor's firmware setting to tone down blue's for eye relief?

Example...




I've sent a message to the ebay vendors (dream seller & green sum) for clarification and to let me know if this low blue-light is a newer version (updated panel, firmware updae, etc) . It's worth noting only dream seller is offering a "low bluelight" variant of the 2795QHD at this time.

Anyone here have the low blue-light variant from dream seller and can comment on the difference(s)?


----------



## Sjqnqo3876

edit


----------



## Sjqnqo3876

edit


----------



## Jacklim

Can someone post pictures of monitor with the screen on?
Also how are the bezels? Are they too thick or just normal?
I am just afraid the bezels are gonna disturb me while using my computer and gaming.

Thanks in advance,


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManImCool*
> 
> If I ignore the PWM factor for a second in order to still consider the QNIXs... how are the options up against each other as a FPS gaming monitor? When it comes to input lag and milliseconds and the sort my "expertise" really starts to dwindle. I have no idea why, if any, of these monitors are ok or not ok for twitch gaming.
> 
> Additionally, I forgot about my 4th option, this Crossover 27QHD. Would this be the panel to get if I want non-PLS but with glossy? And again, how would this stack up against the others for my gaming needs?


It's silly to ignore PWM since PWM ruins motion clarity:



as well as makes some people see flicker and/or suffer from health issues like headaches and/or eyestrain. The Crossover has faster pixel response times than the PLS panels used in the Qnix/X-Star monitors, but they can all be considered lag free. The 27QHD uses an old S-IPS panel which suffers from far more white glow when viewing dark content compared to both the PLS and newer AH-IPS panels, and the S-IPS panels all suffer from an obvious green tint which can't be reduced without calibration since the single input options do not have a menu with colour controls. I'll save you some time: there are no overclock-able other Korean monitors which can compete with the 2795 QHD in terms of all around performance right now.


----------



## Blinkey

Hhhhnnngggg
One of my cheap S-IPS monitors died








can't decide if I want to pull the trigger on this one

Does anyone know how reliable are these OC monitors ?


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinkey*
> 
> Hhhhnnngggg
> One of my cheap S-IPS monitors died
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can't decide if I want to pull the trigger on this one
> 
> Does anyone know how reliable are these OC monitors ?


Given how relatively new this is... I doubt you'd have any meaningful data. Seriously, if you're so edgy about it, you probably shouldn't buy it... nothing is confirmed with this apart from the 2795 reaching ~100Hz overclock reliably. The rest is a crap shoot... whether you get dead/stuck pixels is a crap shoot, whether you get backlight bleed is a crapshoot. If you can't deal with any of those being a possibility... DON'T buy it. TomcatV's recent posts are the ones to read before you decide. If you're still afraid of any of those issues... get another monitor with a good warranty so you can have peace of mind - that's what's most important.


----------



## ManImCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> It's silly to ignore PWM since PWM ruins motion clarity:
> 
> 
> 
> as well as makes some people see flicker and/or suffer from health issues like headaches and/or eyestrain. The Crossover has faster pixel response times than the PLS panels used in the Qnix/X-Star monitors, but they can all be considered lag free. The 27QHD uses an old S-IPS panel which suffers from far more white glow when viewing dark content compared to both the PLS and newer AH-IPS panels, and the S-IPS panels all suffer from an obvious green tint which can't be reduced without calibration since the single input options do not have a menu with colour controls. I'll save you some time: there are no overclock-able other Korean monitors which can compete with the 2795 QHD in terms of all around performance right now.


Thank you for the response. I am about to pull the trigger on the 2795, especially with the ebay 4X bucks deals ending today, but I have also noticed this 27QHD with AH-IPS panel instead of the S-IPS. And it's $50 cheaper. Any comment on the quality of the this AH-IPS 27QHD, or will this one also suffer the same issues as the S-IPS 27QHD?

Edit: part of the description for the one I linked lists AH-IPS, but scroll further down and it lists S-IPS. I don't know what to believe anymore.

Edit #2: Found a 27QHD AH-IPS model, but out of stock. So my question remains, slightly cheaper AH-IPS 27QHD vs 2795?


----------



## Blinkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> Given how relatively new this is... I doubt you'd have any meaningful data. Seriously, if you're so edgy about it, you probably shouldn't buy it... nothing is confirmed with this apart from the 2795 reaching ~100Hz overclock reliably. The rest is a crap shoot... whether you get dead/stuck pixels is a crap shoot, whether you get backlight bleed is a crapshoot. If you can't deal with any of those being a possibility... DON'T buy it. TomcatV's recent posts are the ones to read before you decide. If you're still afraid of any of those issues... get another monitor with a good warranty so you can have peace of mind - that's what's most important.


Thx man for wise words
just one more thing I would like to ask
If I put all uncertainties aside ( like dead/stuck pixels, bleed, etc.. )
can this monitor be a reliable peace of electronics ?
I mean everyone pretty much knows if something doesn't break in a week-month, It will serve good time
Can the same thing be said about Crossover ?


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinkey*
> 
> Thx man for wise words
> just one more thing I would like to ask
> If I put all uncertainties aside ( like dead/stuck pixels, bleed, etc.. )
> can this monitor be a reliable peace of electronics ?
> I mean everyone pretty much knows if something doesn't break in a week-month, It will serve good time
> Can the same thing be said about Crossover ?


I personally don't. I mean... I've had my fair share of monitors and they've always lasted a few generations of computers (and I've only had one LCD die on me and it lasted 6 years)... I just don't expect them to die early... this one included. Panels are made by the same OEM manufacturers... the driver boards look decent.. I actually expect this to last longer given there are less electronics on it compared to typical monitors (no scalars etc.)


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManImCool*
> 
> Hi all, longtime lurker. Been pouring through this thread and the Official QNIX 1440 thread. I'm looking to upgrade my super old 1600 x 900 60Hz LG monitor. This monitor will be primarily be for twitch based gaming (CS:GO), so input lag is a priority. I would prefer a glossy over matte as it will be in a dark room, but I will also eventually buy a 4K monitor for non-gaming and that will definitely be glossy, so matte on this particular purchase is not a deal-breaker, so here goes -
> 
> I think I've narrowed it down to 3 choices:
> 
> Crossover 2795 from this listing
> 
> QNIX QX2710 from this listing
> 
> QNIX QX2414 from this listing
> 
> If my reading comprehension is passable, I have deduced the following:
> 
> I believe the safe bet would be to spend the extra on the Crossover 2795. For my extra $ I get guaranteed no PWM, and most likely a higher quality screen. It will also likely OC to 96Hz. Unfortunately, it only comes in matte, and I want glossy.
> 
> If I want to save money, I go with the listed QX2710. It is glossy, but not as high of quality as the 2795, whatever that means, and per the 2710 FAQ it says to not buy this monitor for twitch gaming. Is that true with the linked QX2710?
> 
> Finally, I could just get the 144Hz QX2414 but it's a smaller screen and only 1080p. I really don't want 1080 and that small of a screen, but if the overclock wizards in here tell me to avoid the first 2 screens for twitch gaming, then I will heed your wise instructions.
> 
> For FPS gaming, am I to avoid QNIX QX2710 for the motionblur alone? Is it really that bad to game on IPS (2795) or do I really have to do the 2414 TN panel?
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ManImCool*
> 
> Thank you for the response. I am about to pull the trigger on the 2795, especially with the ebay 4X bucks deals ending today, but I have also noticed this 27QHD with AH-IPS panel instead of the S-IPS. And it's $50 cheaper. Any comment on the quality of the this AH-IPS 27QHD, or will this one also suffer the same issues as the S-IPS 27QHD?
> 
> Edit: part of the description for the one I linked lists AH-IPS, but scroll further down and it lists S-IPS. I don't know what to believe anymore.
Click to expand...

As usual MTuba is right on ... I'll just ad as a "former" competitive twitch gamer I might go with the QNIX 144Hz 1080p TN, great price! ... It states it is "Flicker Free" which is Korean for no PWM diming?







But heed some of marccoc points, as I don't know of anyone with the QX2414 to confirm the PWM thing. If you chose that route, I'd also take a look at the more expensive Eizo and BenQ choices.

Another key! reason I say this you are coming from a 900 60Hz monitor and have NOT been spoiled by 1440p/IPS yet! Personally I can't even look at 1080p/TN anymore much less 60Hz. AND you'll fill your other needs with a 4K panel soon, I could comment further if I knew your system specs as I feel 4K isn't ready for "Prime Time" yet!

So it may sound as if I'm actually confusing your decision, but consider the whole industry changing overclocked monitors Craz may have not developed as rapidly as it did if someone like "Scribby" didn't take a "chance" on the original Cat2B over 3+ years ago! I think you'd be quite happy with the 2795 as a "compromise" allowing you to further research 4K and avoid going "all in" with the $800 XB270HU (144Hz/IPS/GSync/ULMB!) with it's questionable QC ... see *HERE*









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinkey*
> 
> Thx man for wise words
> just one more thing I would like to ask
> If I put all uncertainties aside ( like dead/stuck pixels, bleed, etc.. )
> can this monitor be a reliable peace of electronics ?
> I mean everyone pretty much knows if something doesn't break in a week-month, It will serve good time
> Can the same thing be said about Crossover ?


Maybe not as reliable as some of the name brands and the 2795 doesn't really have a track record yet, But if we compare it to it's predecessor, the Cat2B or even the QNIX's many of us have been running overclocked for years without any complaints ... IMHO, the best $$$/performance in gaming monitor history!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> I personally don't. I mean... I've had my fair share of monitors and they've always lasted a few generations of computers (and I've only had one LCD die on me and it lasted 6 years)... I just don't expect them to die early... this one included. Panels are made by the same OEM manufacturers... the driver boards look decent.. I actually expect this to last longer given there are less electronics on it compared to typical monitors (no scalars etc.)


Good points ... +R


----------



## ManImCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> As usual MTuba is right on ... I'll just ad as a "former" competitive twitch gamer I might go with the QNIX 144Hz 1080p TN, great price! ... It states it is "Flicker Free" which is Korean for no PWM diming?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But heed some of marccoc points, as I don't know of anyone with the QX2414 to confirm the PWM thing. If you chose that route, I'd also take a look at the more expensive Eizo and BenQ choices.
> 
> Another key! reason I say this you are coming from a 900 60Hz monitor and have NOT been spoiled by 1440p/IPS yet! Personally I can't even look at 1080p/TN anymore much less 60Hz. AND you'll fill your other needs with a 4K panel soon, I could comment further if I knew your system specs as I feel 4K isn't ready for "Prime Time" yet!
> 
> So it may sound as if I'm actually confusing your decision, but consider the whole industry changing overclocked monitors Craz may have not developed as rapidly as it did if someone like "Scribby" didn't take a "chance" on the original Cat2B over 3+ years ago! I think you'd be quite happy with the 2795 as a "compromise" allowing you to further research 4K and avoid going "all in" with the $800 XB270HU (144Hz/IPS/GSync/ULMB!) with it's questionable QC ... see *HERE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe not as reliable as some of the name brands and the 2795 doesn't really have a track record yet, But if we compare it to it's predecessor, the Cat2B or even the QNIX's many of us have been running overclocked for years without any complaints ... IMHO, the best $$$/performance in gaming monitor history!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good points ... +R


If it helps you comment further, I will provide my specs. http://pcpartpicker.com/p/WdZWQ7

As you can see, most of my build is complete. Pretty much the only thing left to purchase is the 32GB of DDR4, my SSD/HDD drives, and case. I currently have the GTX 980 with the intention of handling 1080 or 1440. Eventually, when the next gen GPUs come out next year, I will sell the 980 and then SLI/Xfire 2 of the new gen-GPUs for 4K.

I'm very very tempted to get the cheap QX2414 for $150 and just be content with 144hz 1080p gaming, but my biggest hesitation for that is the size. Eventually, when I get new GPUs and am in the market for the 4K monitor, I'll want that monitor to be in the 27/28 range, so I'll prefer that the monitor I purchase now be of similar size. For that reason, I think I have to go with the 2795.


----------



## Blinkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceshot*
> 
> I've sent a message to the ebay vendors (dream seller & green sum) for clarification and to let me know if this *low blue-light is* a newer version


Does anyone know receive any response from sellers ?


I'm so confused
only dream-seller has "low blue light in the description" and its $315 vs $309 (with no low blue light in the description)

asked him myself but didn't get anything yet


----------



## Iceshot

Reply from vendor green-sum:

"The monitors that we have also has the low blue light feature. It helps protect your eyes by decreasing the level of the blue color. "

Ordered mine today from green-sum for $308.90 with 4x ebay bucks promotion. Nice that he's not trying to milk you for a bit more money for "perceived" extra features. Awesome deal, cant wait to get the panel!

The hunt is on for a reasonably priced, solid, good looking vesa monitor stand with height, swivel, and tilt adjustments. For those of you running Vesa mounts on your Korean 27" monitors, please share what stand your using.


----------



## Blinkey

that feel when Canada









gonna order one too then, is green-sum better than dream-seller ? I heard that its better to order from dream-seller cuz quote "hes not opening monitors to check them for pixels/bleed and people don't get deliberately bad monitors" of course it might not be true


----------



## ManImCool

This is a targeted ebay offer so you'll find out if it works or not when you apply the code in checkout and logged in, but I just used C20OFFSEPT (which I found on slickdeals with many people reporting success) and received $20 off $100 purchase.


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinkey*
> 
> 
> 
> that feel when Canada
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gonna order one too then, is green-sum better than dream-seller ? I heard that its better to order from dream-seller cuz quote "hes not opening monitors to check them for pixels/bleed and people don't get deliberately bad monitors" of course it might not be true


Sucks you cant get Ebay bucks in Canada, worked out to be a Ebay credit of $24.72 on a future purchase! As far as the vendors go, in my research both are well regarded in the larger tech communities and the panel "lottery" as it's coined does not appear to be better with either vendor (equal). I bought from green-sum as he answered my question first, is priced slightly cheaper, and is not trying to stick me for a few extra dollars playing up undocumented features that appear to be standard on the current 2795QHD stock.


----------



## bezzell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceshot*
> 
> Reply from vendor green-sum:
> 
> "The monitors that we have also has the low blue light feature. It helps protect your eyes by decreasing the level of the blue color. "
> 
> Ordered mine today from green-sum for $308.90 with 4x ebay bucks promotion. Nice that he's not trying to milk you for a bit more money for "perceived" extra features. Awesome deal, cant wait to get the panel!
> 
> The hunt is on for a reasonably priced, solid, good looking vesa monitor stand with height, swivel, and tilt adjustments. For those of you running Vesa mounts on your Korean 27" monitors, please share what stand your using.


I been using this. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NLEW9JM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00. The dual monitor version. It's extremely solid. All thick metal, go give or flex at all, and cheap. It handles 2x27" monitors no prolem. Comes in single or triple versions, and also stand or clamp versions.


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManImCool*
> 
> This is a targeted ebay offer so you'll find out if it works or not when you apply the code in checkout and logged in, but I just used C20OFFSEPT (which I found on slickdeals with many people reporting success) and received $20 off $100 purchase.


Tried it and it does not work on the 2795QHD monitors (error msg code). Either it's excluded on monitors or is all used up and no longer valid.


----------



## ManImCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceshot*
> 
> Tried it and it does not work on the 2795QHD monitors (error msg code). Either it's excluded on monitors or is all used up and no longer valid.


At what point do you get the error message? Again it is targeted... when I enter it into the coupon box it takes the $20 off. Are you able to do that, but you get an error when actually placing the order? Or can you not even get it to take the $20 off?


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManImCool*
> 
> At what point do you get the error message? Again it is targeted... when I enter it into the coupon box it takes the $20 off. Are you able to do that, but you get an error when actually placing the order? Or can you not even get it to take the $20 off?


Gotcha, yet another Ebay "targeted" promotion. Some got to use that code and the 4x Ebay points, others only one or the other, and some got neither.


----------



## Blinkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceshot*
> 
> and some got neither.


didn't work for me
Canada always has best deals ...


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinkey*
> 
> didn't work for me
> Canada always has best deals ...


Meh that sucks. You squeeze the trigger and order one?


----------



## Blinkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceshot*
> 
> Meh that sucks. You squeeze the trigger and order one?


yeah ordered the same $308 from green-sum

let's post here when we gonna get our monitors


----------



## ManImCool

Sorry you guys didn't get the 4X ebay bucks or $20 off targeted offer or both. I was able to combine this with some discounted ebay gift cards I purchased earlier. My net cost for the 2795 from green-sum today was $263.90. Also getting $24.72 ebay bucks from the promo so if I take that into account, $239.18. Not bad at all! Never would have pulled the trigger if it weren't for this forum and specifically this thread. Thanks all!


----------



## Blinkey

Going to be my first Korean monitor
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManImCool*
> 
> Sorry you guys didn't get the 4X ebay bucks or $20 off targeted offer or both. I was able to combine this with some discounted ebay gift cards I purchased earlier. My net cost for the 2795 from green-sum today was $263.90. Also getting $24.72 ebay bucks from the promo so if I take that into account, $239.18. Not bad at all! Never would have pulled the trigger if it weren't for this forum and specifically this thread. Thanks all!


#LivingInUSA









I paid $425 CAD and still need to pay $70 tax for it upon delivery


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinkey*
> 
> yeah ordered the same $308 from green-sum
> 
> let's post here when we gonna get our monitors


Sounds like a plan, with luck mine will be here before the weekend. Monday at the latest.


----------



## magedoge

Finally got mine from customs and post office. Got it installed and running fine. Btw. I have the winking eye logo also at the bezel. Now just some tests and refresh rate to 96hz. Hopefully I have time to do some research on this on weekend and get back to you with results. But for now this looks just great after my almost 10 years old TN panel







Thanks for everyone sharing information in this thread since never would have gotten this monitor without all the info here


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManImCool*
> 
> Sorry you guys didn't get the 4X ebay bucks or $20 off targeted offer or both. I was able to combine this with some discounted ebay gift cards I purchased earlier. My net cost for the 2795 from green-sum today was $263.90. Also getting $24.72 ebay bucks from the promo so if I take that into account, $239.18. Not bad at all! Never would have pulled the trigger if it weren't for this forum and specifically this thread. Thanks all!


Nice! ... If you get at least a 110Hz clocker (likely you will) paired with your 980 I think you'll be very happy with your FPS experience! And all other apps/games as well. You will probably like it so much that you can take your time evaluating 4K and if you really need it yet, or want to wait for DisplayPort 1.3, allowing higher refresh rates to come out along with other advances like OLED see *HERE* ... I know it has for me, the overclocked Korean panels have yet to be challenged for $$$/performance


----------



## AnimeNY

Im thinking of either getting an original 02 panel QNIX 2710 glossy or this Crossover 27QHD. Anyone have any opinions which one i should get? are there any ex Xstar/QNIX owners want to share the differences in picture quality?I appreciate any help!


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AnimeNY*
> 
> Im thinking of either getting an original 02 panel QNIX 2710 glossy or this Crossover 27QHD. Anyone have any opinions which one i should get? are there any ex Xstar/QNIX owners want to share the differences in picture quality?I appreciate any help!


I dont know how easy it's going to be to find a 02 revision. They are the original panels in the 2710 and Im not certain if they are still in circulation. Not a fan of the glossy personally as glare ruins immersion FAR more than the negligible sharpness loss matte coating does. Feelings on gloss aside, the Crossover 27QHD is a better monitor than the Qnix/X-star 2710 of that there is no question.


----------



## Blinkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceshot*
> 
> Sounds like a plan, with luck mine will be here before the weekend. Monday at the latest.


I'm pretty sure you gonna get it faster
would appreciate if you could post here about the status of the monitor


----------



## AnimeNY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceshot*
> 
> I dont know how easy it's going to be to find a 02 revision. They are the original panels in the 2710 and Im not certain if they are still in circulation. Not a fan of the glossy personally as glare ruins immersion FAR more than the negligible sharpness loss matte coating does. Feelings on gloss aside, the Crossover 27QHD is a better monitor than the Qnix/X-star 2710 of that there is no question.


I contacted someone who has a 2013 model for sale claims it can overclock to 110hz no dead pixels and no PWM(Either that or a very high frequency).I was just wondering if the crossover would be worth my while , i was interested in nice a 1440p monitor with beautiful colors to hold me off of the new Rog swift PG279q (waiting for it to stabilize and decrease in price).

Any outright advantages of the crossover compared to an original QNIX/xstar2710?


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AnimeNY*
> 
> I contacted someone who has a 2013 model for sale claims it can overclock to 110hz no dead pixels and no PWM(Either that or a very high frequency).I was just wondering if the crossover would be worth my while , i was interested in nice a 1440p monitor with beautiful colors to hold me off of the new Rog swift PG279q (waiting for it to stabilize and decrease in price).
> 
> Any outright advantages of the crossover compared to an original QNIX/xstar2710?


Yes, the Crossover has a better panel (AH-IPS), is known to be a better overclocker (in general), and in this case is not used. Unless your getting a hell of a deal on the Qnix, I'd get the Crossover instead.


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinkey*
> 
> I'm pretty sure you gonna get it faster
> would appreciate if you could post here about the status of the monitor


green-sum said the manufacture should be shipping mine out today or tomorrow. I'll report back as soon as I have it in hand.


----------



## olif

I just ordered the Crossover 2795QHD from new egg but i was wondering if it comes with a DVI-D dual cable?


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *olif*
> 
> I just ordered the Crossover 2795QHD from new egg but i was wondering if it comes with a DVI-D dual cable?


You paid $30 more than you needed to going through Newegg. Ebay has it for $308.90 with free expedited shipping. Yes, it does come with a DVI-D cable.


----------



## magedoge

Btw, Do any of you have problems with Ufotest while using firefox? When I use it with smaller window, it gives valid result for 96hz but when I try it with full screen, it doesn't get even to 60hz. Just jumps somewhere between 48 and 58 fps. No dead pixels seen with fast check and not bad backlight bleed so I seem to have gotten a pretty good monitor. Still need to check PWM but I guess that this doesn't use it either.


----------



## Advil000

Yes I have a hard time getting FF to sync full screen. Just use another browser. Try Chrome just for the UFO test.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceshot*
> 
> I dont know how easy it's going to be to find a 02 revision. They are the original panels in the 2710 and Im not certain if they are still in circulation. Not a fan of the glossy personally as glare ruins immersion FAR more than the negligible sharpness loss matte coating does. Feelings on gloss aside, the Crossover 27QHD is a better monitor than the Qnix/X-star 2710 of that there is no question.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Iceshot*
> 
> Yes, the Crossover has a better panel (AH-IPS), is known to be a better overclocker (in general), and in this case is not used. Unless your getting a hell of a deal on the Qnix, I'd get the Crossover instead.
Click to expand...

@ AnimeNY ... I agree with iceshot if the QNIX is all it's said to be, and is reasonably priced ($200-$250) I'd go that route. BUT let's clear up some misconceptions while were at it. I presently own both the LG and Samsung OC versions, and have even owned the PLS matte versions in the past.

IMHO ....

1) If buying the CS I'd make sure it is the 2795 model and not the 27QHD, see earlier posts.
2) If your not sure about glossy vs matte, get the matte version. Glossy is only for the panel "purest"!
3) Technically the Samsung PLS (L02) is a slightly better panel than the LG AH-IPS but I don't see a lot of difference in the two. If anything, in my experience, the LG's seem to suffer from slightly more IPS glow, not to be confused with BLB.
4) Overclocking? ... I have only seen one 2795 OC to 120Hz. Where the L02 would do 120Hz pretty regularly and even beyond (mine 128Hz).
5) I think your aware the Glossy L02's are back on the market @$200 new ... AYKM? follow *Here* ... I wouldn't get to excited yet as we need more confirmation, especially for PWM ...

Bottom line ... the safe bet is the 2795 from green-sum *HERE* @$309 ... It's a nice substitute until the PG279Q releases AND goes through it's growing pains like the Acer XB270HU ... their QC was (still is) horrible and most don't expect it will be any different with the PG279Q as it is the same "dicey" AUOptronics panel ... so it may be quite sometime before you want to gamble, play the lottery, with $800-$900 for the PG279Q ... I know I'm still waiting cause my "cheapo" (LoL) Koreans are doing just fine thankyou!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Advil000*
> 
> Yes I have a hard time getting FF to sync full screen. Just use another browser. Try Chrome just for the UFO test.


Good advice +R ...








We went through this w/QNIX - Cat2B's and all of us ended up using Chrome ... But if your using Win10? I don't know it could be a crapshoot


----------



## Iceshot

Hey TomcatV, my advice on the 27QHD was based if AnimeNY "insisted" on a glossy panel and for him it came down to the 27QHD and the used Qnix 2710. I wholly agree the 2795 QHD is a better choice overall unless that used Qnix is priced to move.

On the firefox issue, that's not good news. I use Firefox and strongly prefer it's open source vs Chrome and the privacy concerns that have arisen in the last several builds. If someone figures out a solution for Firefox, please post it. I'll do the same if I find the answer first.


----------



## olif

The reason i could not go through ebay was because they blacklisted my name and credit card about 2 years ago. I was trying to set up an account so that i could send money to a friend because we were running a dayz server, but i got a weird question about a license verification when trying to set up the Paypal account. so when i called support they found out i was not 18. so they went and blacklisted my scratchcard for any of there websites (Ebay). So now that i am 18 I could try to go there again but i dont feel like arguing with support or showing them an ID. However i could have used my moms account, but she is the last person who i would want seeing i just bought a monitor


----------



## olif

What is funny is that this is the only place where i can find information about the Crossover 2795QHD. Everywhere else there are no videos or anything. This forum is filled to the brim with info. I have a question though about overclocking. How much does it shorten the lifespan of the monitor, ideally i would like the monitor to last like at least 6-7 years.


----------



## ManImCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManImCool*
> 
> Sorry you guys didn't get the 4X ebay bucks or $20 off targeted offer or both. I was able to combine this with some discounted ebay gift cards I purchased earlier. My net cost for the 2795 from green-sum today was $263.90. Also getting $24.72 ebay bucks from the promo so if I take that into account, $239.18. Not bad at all! Never would have pulled the trigger if it weren't for this forum and specifically this thread. Thanks all!


Good lord. I ordered this thing at 530pm on Wednesday. It was delivered to my house at 10am this morning (Friday). About 41 hours from order being placed to on my doorstep. That may not be the record but that's fast! Now I just have to muscle through the rest of this work day (and go buy a DVI cable on my way home) so I can being the tinkering!


----------



## AnimeNY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> @ AnimeNY ... I agree with iceshot if the QNIX is all it's said to be, and is reasonably priced ($200-$250) I'd go that route. BUT let's clear up some misconceptions while were at it. I presently own both the LG and Samsung OC versions, and have even owned the PLS matte versions in the past.
> 
> IMHO ....
> 
> 1) If buying the CS I'd make sure it is the 2795 model and not the 27QHD, see earlier posts.
> 2) If your not sure about glossy vs matte, get the matte version. Glossy is only for the panel "purest"!
> 3) Technically the Samsung PLS (L02) is a slightly better panel than the LG AH-IPS but I don't see a lot of difference in the two. If anything, in my experience, the LG's seem to suffer from slightly more IPS glow, not to be confused with BLB.
> 4) Overclocking? ... I have only seen one 2795 OC to 120Hz. Where the L02 would do 120Hz pretty regularly and even beyond (mine 128Hz).
> 5) I think your aware the Glossy L02's are back on the market @$200 new ... AYKM? follow *Here* ... I wouldn't get to excited yet as we need more confirmation, especially for PWM ...
> 
> Bottom line ... the safe bet is the 2795 from green-sum *HERE* @$309 ... It's a nice substitute until the PG279Q releases AND goes through it's growing pains like the Acer XB270HU ... their QC was (still is) horrible and most don't expect it will be any different with the PG279Q as it is the same "dicey" AUOptronics panel ... so it may be quite sometime before you want to gamble, play the lottery, with $800-$900 for the PG279Q ... I know I'm still waiting cause my "cheapo" (LoL) Koreans are doing just fine thankyou!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good advice +R ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We went through this w/QNIX - Cat2B's and all of us ended up using Chrome ... But if your using Win10? I don't know it could be a crapshoot


Thanks for the thorough explanation tom! I understand perfectly now!Also regarding the QNIX offer, the seller is offering it $240 what do you think? its tot too bad , claims that he will guarantee high overclock and 0 dead pixel! Although i was wondering do the Crossover2795's suffer from DOA's like the Xstar's and QNIX? It's way too random for my liking its the reason i'm even considering buying used.


----------



## ManImCool

Hey guys. So I finally got home after work to check out my delivered 2795. I haven't opened it yet, but looking at the box, it says "QHD Monitor." It also says HDMI and DisplayPort. I thought this was DVI only? Did they send me the wrong model, as in one of those multi-input ones that are known for not overclocking? Or does the multi-input thing and avoiding them only apply to the QNIX 2710s?

I ordered this


----------



## Blinkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManImCool*
> 
> Did they send me the wrong model


No, it's just a box, inside there will be single input monitor as you ordered, they use the same box design, trying to save money on every single thing

When you unbox it, please make a few photos of the actual monitor and after powering up tell us hows it in general
Thanks


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManImCool*
> 
> Hey guys. So I finally got home after work to check out my delivered 2795. I haven't opened it yet, but looking at the box, it says "QHD Monitor." It also says HDMI and DisplayPort. I thought this was DVI only? Did they send me the wrong model, as in one of those multi-input ones that are known for not overclocking? Or does the multi-input thing and avoiding them only apply to the QNIX 2710s?
> 
> I ordered this


The 2795QHD is suppose to be DVI-D ONLY and that's a key selling point as multi-input variants are terrible overclockers. Blinkey and I ordered the exact same one from the same vendor Ebay listing on 9/23 and are both still waiting on our's to arrive. As soon as you have verified whats in the box, please drop us a line and let us know! Let us know if your bezel says Crossover or has the smiley face on it.

It's possible Crossover makes one logo'd box that lists features of all the QHD monitors and inside is the correct one.


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AnimeNY*
> 
> Thanks for the thorough explanation tom! I understand perfectly now!Also regarding the QNIX offer, the seller is offering it $240 what do you think? its tot too bad , claims that he will guarantee high overclock and 0 dead pixel! Although i was wondering do the Crossover2795's suffer from DOA's like the Xstar's and QNIX? It's way too random for my liking its the reason i'm even considering buying used.


Provided the Qnix comes from a smoke free home and is in great condition, for $240 I'd bite.


----------



## ManImCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinkey*
> 
> No, it's just a box, inside there will be single input monitor as you ordered, they use the same box design, trying to save money on every single thing
> 
> When you unbox it, please make a few photos of the actual monitor and after powering up tell us hows it in general
> Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceshot*
> 
> The 2795QHD is suppose to be DVI-D ONLY and that's a key selling point as multi-input variants are terrible overclockers. Blinkey and I ordered the exact same one from the same vendor Ebay listing on 9/23 and are both still waiting on our's to arrive. As soon as you have verified whats in the box, please drop us a line and let us know! Let us know if your bezel says Crossover or has the smiley face on it.
> 
> It's possible Crossover makes one logo'd box that lists features of all the QHD monitors and inside is the correct one.


False alarm. Appears to be just the box. Opened it up and saw a DVI only monitor staring up back at me. It has a smiley face thing for a logo on the bottom center. Unfortunately, that's as far as I could get because my build I'm working on isn't complete yet (just waiting for my RAM to arrive in the mail). My remaining PCs don't have DVI. Knowing full well it probably wouldn't work, I couldn't help myself and used a DVI male HDMI female adapter and tried plugging my hdmi laptop to the monitor that way but the the moment I plugged it in my laptop got an instant BSOD with BAD_POOL_HEADER. Unplugged, restarted windows, plugged it back in, again instant BSOD. Guess I'll have to be patient and wait for my RAM to arrive so i can finally complete my build and test this thing.

Also I was pleased to discover it came with a DVI cable. Assuming it can handle the overclock, I'll be returning the new cable I just bought from Frys.

By the way, is there any known difference between the "smiley face" and crossover logo versions?


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManImCool*
> 
> False alarm. Appears to be just the box. Opened it up and saw a DVI only monitor staring up back at me. It has a smiley face thing for a logo on the bottom center. Unfortunately, that's as far as I could get because my build I'm working on isn't complete yet (just waiting for my RAM to arrive in the mail). My remaining PCs don't have DVI. Knowing full well it probably wouldn't work, I couldn't help myself and used a DVI male HDMI female adapter and tried plugging my hdmi laptop to the monitor that way but the the moment I plugged it in my laptop got an instant BSOD with BAD_POOL_HEADER. Unplugged, restarted windows, plugged it back in, again instant BSOD. Guess I'll have to be patient and wait for my RAM to arrive so i can finally complete my build and test this thing.
> 
> Also I was pleased to discover it came with a DVI cable. Assuming it can handle the overclock, I'll be returning the new cable I just bought from Frys.
> 
> By the way, is there any known difference between the "smiley face" and crossover logo versions?


Seems the most recent shipments of the 2795QHD have been showing up with the face on the center instead of the Crossover logo. Several others have reported this change. Wonder how easy it would be to rub/remove off the silk screen smiley face?

Does the bezel other than the bottom center logo appear to have any other changes? Is the bezel glossy, low gloss, or brushed aluminum?

Do you plan to overclock your monitor? If so, once your rig is built please let us know how high your able to get the O/C without dropped frames, ghosting, and or artifacts.


----------



## magedoge

The bezel is pretty glossy at least in my monitor which has the smiley face logo. The problem with firefox is kind of sad since I have used it almost all that time that I have had internet but it doesn't handle the overclock well. Now sitting at 96hz confirmed with no frame skipping while using chrome. Still need to try that 110hz but I guess that this 96 will be enough for me anyways. It still makes games so much better and damn these colors are great.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AnimeNY*
> 
> Thanks for the thorough explanation tom! I understand perfectly now!Also regarding the QNIX offer, the seller is offering it $240 what do you think? its tot too bad , claims that he will guarantee high overclock and 0 dead pixel! Although i was wondering do the Crossover2795's suffer from DOA's like the Xstar's and QNIX? It's way too random for my liking its the reason i'm even considering buying used.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Iceshot*
> 
> Provided the Qnix comes from a smoke free home and is in great condition, for $240 I'd bite.
Click to expand...

No problem







... A monitor decision is critical (stressful?), and should supersede all others ... it is, after all, what we look at 99% of the time confirming all the hard work we put into your custom build!

IIRC I haven't seen one 2795 DOA, but as iceshot said I'd seriously consider biting on the QNIX also!
But don't forget to also confirm no PWM diming if that is a concern for you. Not all L02's were PWM free








You may be interested to follow some posts/links *HERE* also ...

@iceshot ... good point! smoke free is critical for me also, and is often overlooked! ... +R


----------



## AnimeNY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> No problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... A monitor decision is critical (stressful?), and should supersede all others ... it is, after all, what we look at 99% of the time confirming all the hard work we put into your custom build!
> 
> IIRC I haven't seen one 2795 DOA, but as iceshot said I'd seriously consider biting on the QNIX also!
> But don't forget to also confirm no PWM diming if that is a concern for you. Not all L02's were PWM free
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may be interested to follow some posts/links *HERE* also ...
> 
> @iceshot ... good point! smoke free is critical for me also, and is often overlooked! ... +R


Thats a good point he claimed that there were no other noticeable/ outright apparent issues like backlightbleed i should ask about the PWM. Also i was considering getting a Qnix to display alongside the asus vg248qe. If i buy it , will i be blown away?I noticed that colors on this monitor are subpar but the monitors speed is what i enjoyed the most about it.I figured having a fast TN for gaming and an IPS/PLS for everything else would be the sweetspot!Just gotta figure out how i wlll set it up on the table.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Surprisingly easy.
> 
> Panel sticker: LS270WQ1 SL C1 (link)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4 screws in the back. Slowly unhooking panel from all sides.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy to do with a flat-head screwdriver
> 
> 
> Spoiler: image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4 screws on the side of the panel but nothing too hard.
> 
> edit:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No wonder the other 4 buttons don't work lol


To anyone willing, open up your case and find out what panel you have








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceshot*
> 
> Seems the most recent shipments of the 2795QHD have been showing up with the face on the center instead of the Crossover logo. Several others have reported this change. Wonder how easy it would be to rub/remove off the silk screen smiley face?
> 
> Does the bezel other than the bottom center logo appear to have any other changes? Is the bezel glossy, low gloss, or brushed aluminum?
> 
> Do you plan to overclock your monitor? If so, once your rig is built please let us know how high your able to get the O/C without dropped frames, ghosting, and or artifacts.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magedoge*
> 
> The bezel is pretty glossy at least in my monitor which has the smiley face logo. The problem with firefox is kind of sad since I have used it almost all that time that I have had internet but it doesn't handle the overclock well. Now sitting at 96hz confirmed with no frame skipping while using chrome. Still need to try that 110hz but I guess that this 96 will be enough for me anyways. It still makes games so much better and damn these colors are great.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManImCool*
> 
> Hey guys. So I finally got home after work to check out my delivered 2795. I haven't opened it yet, but looking at the box, it says "QHD Monitor." It also says HDMI and DisplayPort. I thought this was DVI only? Did they send me the wrong model, as in one of those multi-input ones that are known for not overclocking? Or does the multi-input thing and avoiding them only apply to the QNIX 2710s?
> 
> I ordered this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: images


I also got the HDMI/DP box but, yes, it was just the box. If you're going to overclock, avoid the multi-input models and ignore the box unless it actually turns out to be one. Glossy frame/bezel, winking face logo, very little backlight bleed, no pwm/flickering, and artifacts for very specific animations like the snow falling on /r/battlefield4 or a very specific shade of grey.

Get overlocking now








Firefox is annoying in fullscreen for the UFO test but Chrome works well if you don't have a lot of extensions. I always get 1 browser stutter but it's fine. Don't forget to do the frameskipping test too. If you can't change the aperture speed of the camera, get an app that can do it. I got my monitor to 110Hz.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> I've take many pictures now and they all have a minimum of 3 lines. I feel like this is a good, low number to have. Pointing the camera at the screen, the lines are visibly separated. So I'm going to go with "No, it suffers from a little bit of PWM dimming." I've searched the Qnix/Xstar and this thread for images of how the their line looks and can't find any (probably because I'm tired). Also compared it to the TFT central pics (link) and it
> 
> Full brightness, stock CCC color profile, f.lux turned off, Chrome Version 45.0.2454.85 m, Firefox 39.0
> OC 96Hz:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Yes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OC 110Hz:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Yes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OC120Hz: No :c
> Banding: No
> Frame skipping: No @96
> 
> 
> Spoiler: No @96
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: No @110
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PWM dimming: (edit) No
> 
> edit: Reddit is a great way of viewing many different images/colors quickly. I found that certain colors will flicker ever so slightly.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: And this off-white/grey color makes some pixels flicker red (inside black outline)? I've gone through 50 images and another 50 gifs but only this one shows that. Weird ^^


----------



## Krailor

I've got an odd issue with my Crossover. When I first turn my computer on or resume from a long sleep the colors are all distorted on the monitor.



After 3-4 min it correctly itself and goes back to normal.



Has anyone seen this before? The monitor isn't overclocked, my video card (970) isn't overclocked. Changing resolution doesn't do anything.

I've got a new DVI cable on order, hopefully it's just interference due to a crappy cable.

Has anyone seen this before?


----------



## Blinkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krailor*
> 
> I've got an odd issue with my Crossover


I'd say its driver board or w/e its called within the monitor
Highly doubt replacing cable will help, but ofc give it a try


----------



## crashnburn_in

Does this have a DP/ HDMI?


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krailor*
> 
> I've got an odd issue with my Crossover. When I first turn my computer on or resume from a long sleep the colors are all distorted on the monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> After 3-4 min it correctly itself and goes back to normal.
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone seen this before? The monitor isn't overclocked, my video card (970) isn't overclocked. Changing resolution doesn't do anything.
> 
> I've got a new DVI cable on order, hopefully it's just interference due to a crappy cable.
> 
> Has anyone seen this before?


If it were me at this point, I'd hook the monitor up to a different source to rule out graphics card issues (process of elimination). If the behavior is the same on another pc and you tried another DVI-D cable, then for sure you have a flakey panel. How long have you had your Crossover and which model is it?


----------



## Krailor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceshot*
> 
> If it were me at this point, I'd hook the monitor up to a different source to rule out graphics card issues (process of elimination). If the behavior is the same on another pc and you tried another DVI-D cable, then for sure you have a flakey panel. How long have you had your Crossover and which model is it?


I tried with a 750ti and no change. I just got the monitor yesterday; it's one of the new 2795s with the smiley face logo. I started the return process on Ebay, I should have a new cable in tomorrow or tue and if that doesn't fix it I'll send it back.


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krailor*
> 
> I tried with a 750ti and no change. I just got the monitor yesterday; it's one of the new 2795s with the smiley face logo. I started the return process on Ebay, I should have a new cable in tomorrow or tue and if that doesn't fix it I'll send it back.


Sure sounds like the monitor is faulty. Not holding out much hope it's the cable as in all my years in I.T. I've never seen one go bad. If you have to return it, is the vendor providing you a shipping label free of charge to send it back to Korea? Which ebay vendor did you buy from?


----------



## Krailor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceshot*
> 
> Sure sounds like the monitor is faulty. Not holding out much hope it's the cable as in all my years in I.T. I've never seen one go bad. If you have to return it, is the vendor providing you a shipping label free of charge to send it back to Korea? Which ebay vendor did you buy from?


Yeah, my guess is that it's a loose solder connection on the DVI connector and as the monitor warms up the PCB expands just enough to complete the connection.

I bought it from green-sum and I started the return process through Ebay.

Bummer too since besides this issue everything else is perfect; no dead pixels and can OC to 110.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krailor*
> 
> Yeah, my guess is that it's a loose solder connection on the DVI connector and as the monitor warms up the PCB expands just enough to complete the connection.
> 
> I bought it from green-sum and I started the return process through Ebay.
> 
> Bummer too since besides this issue everything else is perfect; no dead pixels and can OC to 110.


Edit: Nevermind, just reread your post and it seems you get this problem from cold boot as well. If it was just standby/resume that would make sense.


----------



## ManImCool

Maybe a dumb question, but is the DVI cable that is included for free and ships with 2795s high quality enough to handle overclocking? I bought a well reviewed cable from Frys thinking I would need one but when I received the 2795 I was pleasantly surprised to see it included a DVI cable. For people overclocking, are you using the DVI cable that came with it with success, or using your own? It'd be nice if I can return this unopened cable I bought if I don't need it.

Can't test it yet myself because my computer build isn't complete.


----------



## TweedleDurp

Quote:


> Maybe a dumb question, but is the DVI cable that is included for free and ships with 2795s high quality enough to handle overclocking? I bought a well reviewed cable from Frys thinking I would need one but when I received the 2795 I was pleasantly surprised to see it included a DVI cable. For people overclocking, are you using the DVI cable that came with it with success, or using your own? It'd be nice if I can return this unopened cable I bought if I don't need it.
> 
> Can't test it yet myself because my computer build isn't complete.


I overclocked mine to 96Hz using the included cable. I intended to try for a higher rate, but I decided I was happy with 96 and haven't bothered.


----------



## N473

Iceshot and Blinkey, I'm eagerly waiting to pull the trigger on buying a 2795 from Green-Sum.....I'm just waiting to hear how your orders turned out!

Thanks to everyone on this site who helped me realize that Qnix/Xstar is the way of the past and to go with the Crossover 2795 instead


----------



## Krailor

They asked that I make short video displaying the issue and after I sent it over they issued a return label.

Hopefully the replacement unit works out.


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N473*
> 
> Iceshot and Blinkey, I'm eagerly waiting to pull the trigger on buying a 2795 from Green-Sum.....I'm just waiting to hear how your orders turned out!
> 
> Thanks to everyone on this site who helped me realize that Qnix/Xstar is the way of the past and to go with the Crossover 2795 instead


UPS tracking number shows Wednesday for delivery (makes 5 business days meh). I'll have some initial feedback up Wednesday evening


----------



## chris92

After spending the entirety of the day researching, I've just ordered two of these







From Green-Sum, because from what I've read it seems like he's/they're good.

I'm hoping to debezel these, but I haven't seen an image of one debezeled yet. I hope it's possible!


----------



## Lady Luna

Got mine from green-sum yesterday, didn't have to pay any extra shipping charges for the UK and only £28 custom fees. It got here really quick too, was sent out on Friday and was here on Monday, also no dead pixels. I am very happy with the monitor.


----------



## N473

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Luna*
> 
> Got mine from green-sum yesterday, didn't have to pay any extra shipping charges for the UK and only £28 custom fees. It got here really quick too, was sent out on Friday and was here on Monday, also no dead pixels. I am very happy with the monitor.


That's great! Did you OC? If so, what were your results?


----------



## Lady Luna

Have it at 100hz and it's fine, no frame skipping.


----------



## BusterOddo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManImCool*
> 
> Maybe a dumb question, but is the DVI cable that is included for free and ships with 2795s high quality enough to handle overclocking? I bought a well reviewed cable from Frys thinking I would need one but when I received the 2795 I was pleasantly surprised to see it included a DVI cable. For people overclocking, are you using the DVI cable that came with it with success, or using your own? It'd be nice if I can return this unopened cable I bought if I don't need it.
> 
> Can't test it yet myself because my computer build isn't complete.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TweedleDurp*
> 
> I overclocked mine to 96Hz using the included cable. I intended to try for a higher rate, but I decided I was happy with 96 and haven't bothered.


This is exactly what I have done also. Used the included cable to overclock to 96 and have had no issues. I haven't bothered to try for higher yet, but will at some point in the future. I have been using this monitor for 3-4 weeks now, and it has been a great experience. FWIW I play BF4 almost everyday on it.


----------



## N473

Just bought the perfect pixel 2795 from green-sum. $319. I know perfect pixel doesn't matter, but it was $10 more so what the hell:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141740633783?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Also, bought this DL DVI-D cable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NJ0S1W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_slice_detailpage

It gets great reviews and supposedly does well with 2k overclocking to 120hz. Anyone have experience using this cable with the 2795?


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N473*
> 
> Just bought the perfect pixel 2795 from green-sum. $319. I know perfect pixel doesn't matter, but it was $10 more so what the hell:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/141740633783?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> 
> Also, bought this DL DVI-D cable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NJ0S1W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_slice_detailpage
> 
> It gets great reviews and supposedly does well with 2k overclocking to 120hz. Anyone have experience using this cable with the 2795?


Sounds good, only thing I'd reconsider is getting a 24 AWG cable (you ordered a 28 AWG). From what I understand, the thicker cable and shortest you can get away with can help in achieving a higher overclock. This is not to say the cable you ordered wont get you where you want to be, rather you "should" do a bit better on a high quality 24 AWG cable vs 28. It seems most in the U.S. get one from Monoprice (high quality cables, I've used them for years) for under $20.

http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=2


----------



## N473

Just cancelled my order and ordered the monoprice. I didn't realize the cable matters cable was only 28 AWG. Thanks Iceshot


----------



## Iceshot

Got my 2795QHD in the mail today from UPS. Box was in good shape, no dents or crushing. Styrofoam was intact. Got it setup and happy to report the following....

1) No dead pixels

2) No backlight bleed

3) Overclocks to 100mhz with no frame skipping or artifacts. (tested with 1/5 exposure pics)

Extremely pleased with the picture quality! Gaming in Battlefield 4 is a HUGE jump from my old Dell LCD 2407WFP (2006). It's true what others have said, once you go 100hz on a high quality IPS panel there is NO going back.

I have a Dell monitor stand with a VESA conversion mounting plate I will using in place of the factory tilt (only) stand. Will show you before and after pics and post details on where to snag the Dell monitor stand (full adjustment) and VESA plate for about $30 USD shipped. Looks GREAT with the Crossover panel!


----------



## ManImCool

First time overclocker here. I followed the link in the first post, and just went into NVIDIA Control Panel, created Custom Resolution, and just created one with 96Hz. Kept scan type at Progressive, and did not adjust any Timing parameters and kept it at an Automatic Standard. Is the the right way to go about it? If I want to go above 96, do I need to mess with timing parameters and/or patch any drivers? Using the previous steps I also tried to create a 110Hz profile but the screen started to flicker or stutter or whatever you call it. Also, how do I test that it's correctly overclocked? I do have a DSLR to snap any photos I may need to.


----------



## caenlen

i have a qnix, but i have never had any eyestrain or headaches even when oc'd to 110hz, how do i go about testing if i have one the pwm free ones or not?


----------



## Sjqnqo3876

edit


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marccoc*
> 
> Just got my Crossover 2730MD today. Seller was claiming to OC 120Hz . But nop, no OC can be done on this... Disappointed..


Research more carefully next time. Forum frequenters have known for over 2 years that the multi-input Korean IPS can't overclock without dropping frames. The Qnix/X-Star True 10 AHVA panels are the *only* exceptions, but they have slow pixel response times, low contrast, >1 frame of input lag and max out at 85hz.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marccoc*
> 
> Just got my Crossover 2730MD today. Seller was claiming to OC 120Hz . But nop, no OC can be done on this... Disapointed..


I and others already warned you about this







.... see *HERE* and *HERE* ... OC's and PWM free, stick with the 2795 only ... for you I won't bring up the Overlord deal anymore








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManImCool*
> 
> First time overclocker here. I followed the link in the first post, and just went into NVIDIA Control Panel, created Custom Resolution, and just created one with 96Hz. Kept scan type at Progressive, and did not adjust any Timing parameters and kept it at an Automatic Standard. Is the the right way to go about it? If I want to go above 96, do I need to mess with timing parameters and/or patch any drivers? Using the previous steps I also tried to create a 110Hz profile but the screen started to flicker or stutter or whatever you call it. Also, how do I test that it's correctly overclocked? I do have a DSLR to snap any photos I may need to.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> i have a qnix, but i have never had any eyestrain or headaches even when oc'd to 110hz, how do i go about testing if i have one the pwm free ones or not?
Click to expand...

ManImcool ... you did it right, simple ehh? But you sound unstable at 110Hz ... custom timings "might"? help, see the OC guide in my sig or the OP.

OC no frame-skipping confirmation go to Step 4 Overclocking Guide (sub header) *HERE* ... or search earlier in this thread ...

Quick n dirty PWM test ... set your monitor with a white background. Open the std camera app on your smartphone and frame your monitor (don't need to take a picture) in the camera viewer if you see "pulsing" grey lines like the monitor on the left below, you have PWM diming ...



More PWM info *HERE* ... courtesy MTuba


----------



## Sjqnqo3876

edit


----------



## Sjqnqo3876

edit


----------



## Th3Janitor

HI guys I bought one of these from greensum and it arrived 4 days ago and was working fine. I have done no overclocking or color adjustments and it was working until today. I was doing normal browsing on Chrome when my screen went white and now there is a permanent white 'filter' over the screen and all the colours seem to have gone negative and most pictures are fuzzy. Has anyone experienced this before or does anyone know how to fix it. i would love a reply.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th3Janitor*
> 
> HI guys I bought one of these from greensum and it arrived 4 days ago and was working fine. I have done no overclocking or color adjustments and it was working until today. I was doing normal browsing on Chrome when my screen went white and now there is a permanent white 'filter' over the screen and all the colours seem to have gone negative and most pictures are fuzzy. Has anyone experienced this before or does anyone know how to fix it. i would love a reply.


If you have another video card/monitor to test it with, that'll help with troubleshooting. If it's showing a whitish screen even in the bios screens on boot up I'd return the monitor - it should still be covered I'd think. Good luck and hope everything works out for you!


----------



## Bones28

Just a heads-up, I noticed a new seller of this monitor has just appeared on ebay, has a sale going ( Oct 2nd - 4th ) for $279 US

Looks the same, thinking of getting one as I was still waiting for Green-Sum to have another sale and not sure if/when that will happen

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-27-LED-2560X1440-100Hz-LG-IPS-Monitor-/221902610837?hash=item33aa6d2195


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marccoc*
> 
> Ebay purchase.. item#331654183235 - *CROSSOVER 2730MD LED 27" 2560x1440 WQHD 1440P HDMI 1.4 IPS 120HZ MONITOR*
> 
> _Hi there,
> 
> Thanks for your inquiry. As I stated in my previous e-mail, the monitor is capable of doing 120hz and previously I had it set up appropriately to do it.
> 
> As I've also explained there are a number of steps required (including specific hardware requirements and software manipulation) that are required to overclock this monitor. I've contacted eBay regarding this inquiry, and because you were unable to set it up appropriately, they've agree that this is not a defect, and thus buyer should pay the return shipping. I will happily accept the return, but require you to pay the shipping back to me._
> 
> ... Is she really telling Tomcat, NCX and all other here are wrong ?.. What the hell are those trolling "specific hardware requirement and software manipulation" she's talking about, other than those we all know...
> Don't get mad, I know that b*tch is lying..
> 
> Fell on two major bastard d1ck on ebay lately...
> 
> Email transcript (most recent first):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *[Seller's response]*
> 
> Hi, I did overclock it when I first got it. It was able to overclock to about 110hz and be stable. I decided to stop overclocking it though, because something about it being overclocked was conflicting with my software. Not sure why. Anyhow, I stopped OC'ing it, and kept it at its normal 60hz.
> 
> *[Me]*
> Ok. Were you able to overclock it ?
> 
> If so, how much were you able to OC it to ?
> 
> *[Seller's response]*
> 
> Yes, it was, and still is, a rarer model. I love it, but its time to upgrade to 34" curved
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> *[Me]*
> 
> Hi there. kinda surprised to see a glossy, ips, Overclockable version of those crossover 27" 1440p ... I though there was only that matte 2795...
> 
> Let me know..


In future, another sure fire way to tell if any monitor is overclockable: it will have a dedicated thread at OCN humming with activity.


----------



## norse-legend

Hey guys,

I just bought home a new Asus GTX 970 Black edition graphics card (https://www.asus.com/Graphics-Cards/GTX970DC2OC4GD5BLACK/) but I just realised its got a DVI-I connector? Will this be ok with the Crossover or should I return it for something with DVI-D?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norse-legend*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I just bought home a new Asus GTX 970 Black edition graphics card (https://www.asus.com/Graphics-Cards/GTX970DC2OC4GD5BLACK/) but I just realised its got a DVI-I connector? Will this be ok with the Crossover or should I return it for something with DVI-D?


No problem, it will work fine.


----------



## Coldsnap

Wanting to get one of these. Checking to see if it will work for my setup. I have a HTPC connected to a 55" Sony TV, then a cable running through a wall into what will be this monitor for my work desk. When TV is off, HTPC displays on my work monitor, when work monitor is off HTPC display on my TV. When I set up my overclock profile in NVIDIA for the monitor, can you make it monitor specific? I don't want it to try and overclock my TV.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crashnburn_in*
> 
> Does this have a DP/ HDMI?


No. The 2795 is dual link DVI only. Might be able to use an active adapter but not sure.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManImCool*
> 
> Maybe a dumb question, but is the DVI cable that is included for free and ships with 2795s high quality enough to handle overclocking? I bought a well reviewed cable from Frys thinking I would need one but when I received the 2795 I was pleasantly surprised to see it included a DVI cable. For people overclocking, are you using the DVI cable that came with it with success, or using your own? It'd be nice if I can return this unopened cable I bought if I don't need it.
> 
> Can't test it yet myself because my computer build isn't complete.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TweedleDurp*
> 
> I overclocked mine to 96Hz using the included cable. I intended to try for a higher rate, but I decided I was happy with 96 and haven't bothered.


I've used the cable delivered with the monitor and gotten to 110Hz. Sadly, it artifacts on very specific colors so I might tune it down to 96Hz. I can't play the darker Rocket League maps without flickering.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marccoc*
> 
> Just got my Crossover 2730MD today. Seller was claiming to OC 120Hz . But nop, no OC can be done on this... Disapointed..


Bummer







Claiming is not the same as proof, especially from foreign sellers.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coldsnap*
> 
> Wanting to get one of these. Checking to see if it will work for my setup. I have a HTPC connected to a 55" Sony TV, then a cable running through a wall into what will be this monitor for my work desk. When TV is off, HTPC displays on my work monitor, when work monitor is off HTPC display on my TV. When I set up my overclock profile in NVIDIA for the monitor, can you make it monitor specific? I don't want it to try and overclock my TV.


From what I see using CRU, you can set it per monitor. I don't know about nvidia


----------



## olif

Can someone tell me what the buttons do on the monitor. I know what the power one does, but not the others like the BL arrows.


----------



## Iceshot

Ok guys as promised, here are the details concerning the Dell monitor stand I'm using. I got the Dell monitor stand and VESA conversion plate for around $30 shipped off Ebay ($15-20 Stand, $10 Vesa plate see Ebay links below). Works fantastic with full height, tilt, swivel, and portrait. Looks OEM, the stand matches the monitor near perfect (better than the photo's suggest).

*Dell Monitor stand: (all the same)
P2213f
P1913Sf
P2210f
P2212Hf
U2413f
U2713H*

*Stand dimensions*

Height (extended)
418.4 mm (16.47 inches)

Height (compressed)
372.3 mm (14.66 inches)

Width
314.8 mm (12.39 inches)

Depth
200.5 mm (7.89 inches)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-P2213f-LED-LCD-22-Monitor-Stand-P2213f-P1913Sf-P2210f-P2212Hf-/191699112055?hash=item2ca2285077

*Dell Vesa Plate: 0Y009C, Y009C*

Note: The screws required for the VESA mount are 4mm x 10mm

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191688360743?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT









Note: Height adjustment of the monitor this last photo is roughly 70% to max

Hope this helps you guys looking for a quality inexpensive Vesa monitor mount.


----------



## StrongForce

Just ordered one .. I was anxious, but I thought, hell for the price.. : http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-IPS-Monitor-Matte-/141740633783? 280 euros.. then +30 customs it's more than fair for such a screen. I hope I get no trouublles







...excited lol


----------



## yamadash

I recently purchased this monitor (has the smiley face logo) from green-sum and had some weird issues with overclocking and was wondering if anyone else had run into this.

My monitor looks great, no dead pixels.

I am overclocking it by adding a custom resolution in Nvidia Control Panel (not using CRU).

I can set it to 96Hz without any visible problems. At 110Hz I start seeing moving red dashed lines across my screen so I lowered it back to 96Hz.

The two issues I've noticed:
1. In full screen games, the monitor reverts back to 60Hz. I've coming from a VG248QE (144Hz) so it's very noticeable when it's running at 60Hz instead of 96Hz. Playing games in windowed mode solves this issue, but I'm still curious if anyone else has run into this issue.

2. Even when I'm running windowed mode I'll occasionally see "dips" where it seems to temporarily go back to 60Hz. It's not an fps drop from something demanding happening in game, as I have the fps counter up and it's a fairly old game (Counter Strike: Source) so it's pretty much always locked at 300 fps. But there will be brief moments where all my movements look choppy like the monitor is running at 60Hz before becoming smoother again.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yamadash*
> 
> I recently purchased this monitor (has the smiley face logo) from green-sum and had some weird issues with overclocking and was wondering if anyone else had run into this.
> 
> My monitor looks great, no dead pixels.
> 
> I am overclocking it by adding a custom resolution in Nvidia Control Panel (not using CRU).
> 
> I can set it to 96Hz without any visible problems. At 110Hz I start seeing moving red dashed lines across my screen so I lowered it back to 96Hz.
> 
> The two issues I've noticed:
> 1. In full screen games, the monitor reverts back to 60Hz. I've coming from a VG248QE (144Hz) so it's very noticeable when it's running at 60Hz instead of 96Hz. Playing games in windowed mode solves this issue, but I'm still curious if anyone else has run into this issue.
> 
> 2. Even when I'm running windowed mode I'll occasionally see "dips" where it seems to temporarily go back to 60Hz. It's not an fps drop from something demanding happening in game, as I have the fps counter up and it's a fairly old game (Counter Strike: Source) so it's pretty much always locked at 300 fps. But there will be brief moments where all my movements look choppy like the monitor is running at 60Hz before becoming smoother again.


I've found that alot of games don't use/acknowledge Nvidia's custom settings for monitor refresh rate. I use CRU to get around it. Once you do so, you won't have any problems. I'm on a GTX 970 here.


----------



## norse-legend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> No problem, it will work fine.


Everything worked out ok. Thanks


----------



## dbliam

Can anyone confirm this monitor is legit: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-CROSSOVER-27QHD-6ms-D-DVI-QHD-2560-x-1440-LG-S-IPS-Computor-Monitor-/221111368687?hash=item337b43bbef

It seems to be cheaper than others of the same model and I am nervous to purchase it. Also it doesn't state whether it is matte or glossy?

Looking to buy this and run it with an MSI amd 7970 card and a seperate 1080p 27in Asus monitor (60Hz).

Any help would be appreciated


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dbliam*
> 
> Can anyone confirm this monitor is legit: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-CROSSOVER-27QHD-6ms-D-DVI-QHD-2560-x-1440-LG-S-IPS-Computor-Monitor-/221111368687?hash=item337b43bbef
> 
> It seems to be cheaper than others of the same model and I am nervous to purchase it. Also it doesn't state whether it is matte or glossy?
> 
> Looking to buy this and run it with an MSI amd 7970 card and a seperate 1080p 27in Asus monitor (60Hz).
> 
> Any help would be appreciated


Thats the older model, if you want to overclock (if you game you really want to) stick with the 2795QHD. At the moment this is the cheapest going price for a 2795QHD in USD.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-27-LED-2560X1440-100Hz-LG-IPS-Monitor-/221902610837?hash=item33aa6d2195&rmvSB=true


----------



## Chaii

I just wanna say thanks to everyone in this thread for all the great info! After going through a lot of the posts I've finally purchased one. Now i just have to wait for it to come in.


----------



## dbliam

Thanks Iceshot,

I should have mentioned I live in UK and the one you linked won't post to me. I think I am going to go with a Link someone put up previously :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400974478465?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true

Its $305 (£200) which is good enough for me. Also I get the impression Green-sum is a decent seller through previous comments.

The info people are sharing here is great, I am going to buy this monitor on Monday one way or another, just narrowing final details down now.


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dbliam*
> 
> Thanks Iceshot,
> 
> I should have mentioned I live in UK and the one you linked won't post to me. I think I am going to go with a Link someone put up previously :
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/400974478465?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true
> 
> Its $305 (£200) which is good enough for me. Also I get the impression Green-sum is a decent seller through previous comments.
> 
> The info people are sharing here is great, I am going to buy this monitor on Monday one way or another, just narrowing final details down now.


No problem, I too ordered mine through green-sum as well and he is a descent seller (Ebay Titanium seller).


----------



## N473

Just got my 2795 yesterday from Green-Sum. Picture quality is amazing! No dead/defective pixels. Backlight bleed is pretty much non-existent. I was able to overclock to 100hz without artifacts or frame loss. If I get up to 104hz, I get artifacts. I'm using the monoprice 24ga cable from my GTX 760 SC ATX.

Thanks for all the advice!


----------



## StrongForce

Does the overclocking work on win 10 by the way ? I saw a guy on comments in a youtube video (teksyndicate wendell talks about a similar screen overclock) who claimed it doesn't work for him, I advised him to run the progs as admin, and I see you guys OC from the drivers also ? that's cool..


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> Does the overclocking work on win 10 by the way ? I saw a guy on comments in a youtube video (teksyndicate wendell talks about a similar screen overclock) who claimed it doesn't work for him, I advised him to run the progs as admin, and I see you guys OC from the drivers also ? that's cool..


This video explains step by step everything you need to know for Overclock your Crossover monitor.


----------



## StrongForce

Ahah yea I was referring to this video







. thanks though !

Edit : How much did you guys end up paying for the customs and VTA upon deliverly ?? I just talked with my father and he said once he ordered for like 500 ish euros of stuff and that he had to pay 140 euros like what the helll.... I ordred in France but I could have order in Swiss too.. now I wonder if I should maybe contact the vendor to change the shipping address :O anyone who live in France knows how much it's gonna be?

Neverming, I mailed to ask, he's away so that's perfect for me eheh, means it's not already shipped and most likely will accept address change.


----------



## Lady Luna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> Ahah yea I was referring to this video
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . thanks though !
> 
> Edit : How much did you guys end up paying for the customs and VTA upon deliverly ?? I just talked with my father and he said once he ordered for like 500 ish euros of stuff and that he had to pay 140 euros like what the helll.... I ordred in France but I could have order in Swiss too.. now I wonder if I should maybe contact the vendor to change the shipping address :O anyone who live in France knows how much it's gonna be?
> 
> Neverming, I mailed to ask, he's away so that's perfect for me eheh, means it's not already shipped and most likely will accept address change.


Do what I did and ask for the value on the customs declaration to be lowered, only ended up paying £28 customs for my monitor.


----------



## StrongForce

Never heard of that, cool, will check it out, but I did send the request to get delivered in Swiss so that should help already


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> Ahah yea I was referring to this video
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . thanks though !
> 
> Edit : How much did you guys end up paying for the customs and VTA upon deliverly ?? I just talked with my father and he said once he ordered for like 500 ish euros of stuff and that he had to pay 140 euros like what the helll.... I ordred in France but I could have order in Swiss too.. now I wonder if I should maybe contact the vendor to change the shipping address :O anyone who live in France knows how much it's gonna be?
> 
> Neverming, I mailed to ask, he's away so that's perfect for me eheh, means it's not already shipped and most likely will accept address change.


It was about 30% for me in the Netherlands. So €84.07 in the end. Such a ****ty number because I had to go find some place that still had 2 cents!!

edit: Thought I'd try Elite Dangerous with EDFX on with this new monitor... Wow... my gfx card hasn't blown away so much heat since June!


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> It was about 30% for me in the Netherlands. So €84.07 in the end. Such a ****ty number because I had to go find some place that still had 2 cents!!
> 
> edit: Thought I'd try Elite Dangerous with EDFX on with this new monitor... Wow... my gfx card hasn't blown away so much heat since June!


Holy smokes yea that's outrageous, I feel like that's what I'd have to pay in France too.. I so hope he accept address change







but theorically he should check his email first when he comes back so I'm good I think, in France TVA is like 20% .. in Swiss it's 8 and the customs fee are much lower apparently.


----------



## dbliam

Just purchased my crossover 2795 from Green-Sum:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400974478465?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true

Should arrive this week and will be setting it up on Friday. Post if you want me to post up any particular details about it when it arrices.

N473, did you get the pixel perfect version?


----------



## Advil000

The overclock works fine on Win 10. No idea why anyone would claim otherwise.

Got my 2795 QHD at 96hz on my GTX 970 and my Vizio 47" TV on a separate 730 card in the same system at 60hz.

No problems in Win 10.


----------



## chris92

So I just received my monitors from Green-Sum today, but I've got a couple of issues. One is probably unfixable, but the other should be.

I've just run a dead pixel test, on my perfect pixel monitors.

One monitor has pretty strong backlight bleeding at the top of the screen (the bright yellow bleed at the top of the screen), the minor backlight bleed is unnoticeable.



And the other one, seems to have dead pixels?



Is this grounds for an exchange? Man, I was hoping everything went alright with my monitors.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris92*
> 
> So I just received my monitors from Green-Sum today, but I've got a couple of issues. One is probably unfixable, but the other should be.
> 
> I've just run a dead pixel test, on my perfect pixel monitors.
> 
> One monitor has pretty strong backlight bleeding at the top of the screen (the bright yellow bleed at the top of the screen), the minor backlight bleed is unnoticeable.
> 
> 
> 
> And the other one, seems to have dead pixels?
> 
> 
> 
> Is this grounds for an exchange? Man, I was hoping everything went alright with my monitors.


Someone quoted the policy on returns for dead/stuck pixels previously... I believe if it's not in the centre and not more than 4 (I can't remember the exact figure) it's not deemed as grounds for returning. Maybe run one of those web apps that can hopefully unstuck your stucked pixel. Pity it's stuck in purple... if it's a dead pixel it'd probably not be noticeable at all.

Re: the backlight bleed... wow! That looks like the metal frame protecting the panel is really bent in. You probably need to make your own decision on whether you'd like to try to fix the backlight bleed yourself or send it back for another roll of the lottery.


----------



## chris92

Thanks for the reply! I'll look around to see if there's any ways to fix the backlight bleed. I've heard applying tape works?

I've uploaded a better picture of the stuck pixels, or dead pixels. I'm not sure what the difference is. But it seems to be a whole bunch of pixels? As tiny dots can be seen spreading out from the big dot.



Must have gotten unlucky with both monitors.


----------



## rissie

I would take a picture perpendicular to the surface so you can spot how many pixels are stuck on purple. If you have more than four stuck bright pixels, I think you may be able to seek a change. Similarly, for your other monitor, if you don't intend to try to fix it yourself, I'd call that excessive backlight bleed and grounds for an exchange as well.

From how I understand it, and I do believe this to be right; stuck pixels refer to pixels which exhibit a fixed colour. Dead pixels refer to pixels that do not light up (i.e. dead because it does not work). In most cases, dead pixels are less offensive especially when we're at such high resolutions. In both cases, there are some sites that basically flicker colours in hopes to kick those pixels out of their jammed mode. There have been reports of success after many hours - just as there are reports that it didn't work. It's up to you to try it, though.

The backlight bleed is a mechanical fix - requires you to take the monitor apart and bend the metal frame - this voids warranty. So while you're still on your exchange period, it'd be best to decide.

All things said, really sorry you had such bad luck on both your monitors!

Edit: Link to post with videos on how to twist the frame... Taping can make BLB worse? http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/12960#post_21702207

BTW I never removed any cables/unplugged any internal cables when I was fixing my backlight bleed... I just undid enough to have access to the frame.


----------



## lester007

i bought a nice thick 24AWG DVI cable from monoprice, no difference at all to the stock cable. IMO basically the included cable will do just fine reaching 100Hz+ it will depend the oc from your GPU card!.


----------



## becritical

has anybody had a chance to run a test with a laptop with a HDMI port?


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becritical*
> 
> has anybody had a chance to run a test with a laptop with a HDMI port?


The 2795QHD only has a DVI-D port for connection, so no.


----------



## becritical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceshot*
> 
> The 2795QHD only has a DVI-D port for connection, so no.


I know but someone said that was going to use an adapter.


----------



## Carbon6

Hi everyone. Good to be here with you.

I just joined (first post!) to throw my hat into this thread as I just got my 27QHD a week ago. I am living in Seoul right now so it wasn't a big drama if things didn't work out. Returns are 1 hour away on the subway.









First, it was about $224.00 USD, so a good deal then.

Nothing was different packaging/contents/product-wise from the other photos that are in this thread (yep, I read them all before buying), so I won't post photos. I can tell you that you guys are getting the same thing that they are selling here, no fooling around. Smiley face, lovely fine matte, shiny black bezel, etc., right down to the cheap-looking/feeling power brick. I might get a more reliable-feeling one but I suspect it will be fine as well.

The local ad, which again has been seen on the net easily, offered 100Hz "real clock" out of the box, so that's what I did immediately after using the AMD pixel patcher and CRU. No problem with that at all; the monitor looks amazing, no dead pixels with just a hint of BLB, top left. I haven't taken it further yet in terms of O/C...in time. It rests at a smooth 96Hz right now, my new regular running speed.

Did all the frame-skip tests, etc and again, all is well.

Phenomenal picture, I have to say, coming from a 60Hz 1920x1200 24-inch "JooYeon Tech" (JT240WDB) monitor purchased here about 6 (?) years ago now. The colors, brightness IQ...really, really good; I am impressed. Great response times (I am a FPS player exclusively, casual gamer) with no anomalies (tearing, ghosting, etc) at all. IQ is sweet, especially with older games (BIG Unreal-series fan) with which one can crank out the frames, max out the settings...nice.

I am running an already-old 4770K (only O/C on boost to 4.2), 8GB GSkill (@1866), Asus Z87 Pro with a Asus 280X TOP card. Not a powerful system, but it handles the high res well. Yep, one loses hope of AA in most newer games, but the res is worth it, IMO. One tends to update graphics cards more often than monitors, and I see myself keeping this for a while. So, some more graphics horsepower for Christmas then?

Not sure what else to write except "thank you"s. To ToastyX first for the great software and to all of the folks here who helped cement my decision. Cheers one and all!

If you have any questions, fire away.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becritical*
> 
> has anybody had a chance to run a test with a laptop with a HDMI port?


These will only work when connected via Dual-Link DVI or with an active DP-DVI adapter; HDMI-DVI adapters do not work.


----------



## faze2

I just got my 2795 from helloemart (http://www.ebay.com/itm/221902610837?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) and overclocked it to 96hz with an 24AWG monoprice dvi-d cable. I have an ASUS Strix 970. I get this extreme banding on the right side when the background is bluish. Decreasing the overclock lessens the banding but I don't see the point of a 15hz overclock. Is there any way to alleviate this? I'm guessing probably not and I just ended up unlucky but I thought I'd ask.


----------



## donovan4456

Can you (or anyone else) confirm this? Several (all?) of the 2795QHD items listed by dream-seller specifically say "Please use DVI-D port only. Cannot be used with DVI-I or DVI-S"

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/321719207934?hash=item4ae7f587fe

I've looked through this thread and haven't found a direct answer to this (perhaps I just missed it)?

1] Is this true only for a dual-monitor setup?

2] Will this monitor work, full 1440p resolution and overclocking, on a DVI-I connection for a single monitor?

3] Most recent graphics card are only DVI-I (digital/analog); surely someone on this thread has tried single-monitor with DVI-I. Has it worked?

I've spec'ed for a new pc build and am getting ready to pull the trigger. However, I just found out that currently the only GTX 980Ti card with a DVI-D port is the Gigabyte one (it has both DVI-D and DVI-I). I may have to default to the Gigabyte card, or select a different monitor. Really, really don't want to pay $$$ for an ASUS or ACER. Any input would be appreciated.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faze2*
> 
> I just got my 2795 from helloemart (http://www.ebay.com/itm/221902610837?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) and overclocked it to 96hz with an 24AWG monoprice dvi-d cable. I have an ASUS Strix 970. I get this extreme banding on the right side when the background is bluish. Decreasing the overclock lessens the banding but I don't see the point of a 15hz overclock. Is there any way to alleviate this? I'm guessing probably not and I just ended up unlucky but I thought I'd ask.


Did you happen to try the stock cable? Just to check? Otherwise, you may have just got unlucky...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *donovan4456*
> 
> Can you (or anyone else) confirm this? Several (all?) of the 2795QHD items listed by dream-seller specifically say "Please use DVI-D port only. Cannot be used with DVI-I or DVI-S"
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/321719207934?hash=item4ae7f587fe
> 
> I've looked through this thread and haven't found a direct answer to this (perhaps I just missed it)?
> 
> 1] Is this true only for a dual-monitor setup?
> 
> 2] Will this monitor work, full 1440p resolution and overclocking, on a DVI-I connection for a single monitor?
> 
> 3] Most recent graphics card are only DVI-I (digital/analog); surely someone on this thread has tried single-monitor with DVI-I. Has it worked?
> 
> I've spec'ed for a new pc build and am getting ready to pull the trigger. However, I just found out that currently the only GTX 980Ti card with a DVI-D port is the Gigabyte one (it has both DVI-D and DVI-I). I may have to default to the Gigabyte card, or select a different monitor. Really, really don't want to pay $$$ for an ASUS or ACER. Any input would be appreciated.


The monitor worked with both ports on my MSI GTX 970 ME100... one of them is a DVI-I and the other a DVI-D.


----------



## faze2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> Did you happen to try the stock cable? Just to check? Otherwise, you may have just got unlucky...
> The monitor worked with both ports on my MSI GTX 970 ME100... one of them is a DVI-I and the other a DVI-D.


Yeah I tried with the stock cable as well. It's the exact same thing. I noticed the ASUS Strix 970 has a DVI-D and DVI-I. Plugging it into the DVI-I has the banding for darker blue colors (the previous pictures I've posted) while plugging it into the DVI-D has the banding for lighter grey colors. Perhaps it is my graphics card? I am going to test it with a different graphics card soon.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faze2*
> 
> Yeah I tried with the stock cable as well. It's the exact same thing. I noticed the ASUS Strix 970 has a DVI-D and DVI-I. Plugging it into the DVI-I has the banding for darker blue colors (the previous pictures I've posted) while plugging it into the DVI-D has the banding for lighter grey colors. Perhaps it is my graphics card? I am going to test it with a different graphics card soon.


FWIW, I did lose 5Hz (110 to 105) of overclock moving from a hacked AMD 6970 to the Nvidia 970... so the video cards do make a difference.


----------



## yamadash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yamadash*
> 
> I recently purchased this monitor (has the smiley face logo) from green-sum and had some weird issues with overclocking and was wondering if anyone else had run into this.
> 
> My monitor looks great, no dead pixels.
> 
> I am overclocking it by adding a custom resolution in Nvidia Control Panel (not using CRU).
> 
> I can set it to 96Hz without any visible problems. At 110Hz I start seeing moving red dashed lines across my screen so I lowered it back to 96Hz.
> 
> The two issues I've noticed:
> 1. In full screen games, the monitor reverts back to 60Hz. I've coming from a VG248QE (144Hz) so it's very noticeable when it's running at 60Hz instead of 96Hz. Playing games in windowed mode solves this issue, but I'm still curious if anyone else has run into this issue.
> 
> 2. Even when I'm running windowed mode I'll occasionally see "dips" where it seems to temporarily go back to 60Hz. It's not an fps drop from something demanding happening in game, as I have the fps counter up and it's a fairly old game (Counter Strike: Source) so it's pretty much always locked at 300 fps. But there will be brief moments where all my movements look choppy like the monitor is running at 60Hz before becoming smoother again.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> I've found that alot of games don't use/acknowledge Nvidia's custom settings for monitor refresh rate. I use CRU to get around it. Once you do so, you won't have any problems. I'm on a GTX 970 here.


Update on my situation. After applying Nvidia pixel clock patch (gtx 980ti) and using CRU, full screen at 96 hz (or at least it's not 60) is working. I also no longer see any of the temporary dips to 60 hz. I selected custom extension block, then edited that extension block and added a detailed resolution for 2560 x 1440p at 96 hz with timing set to LCD native (pixel clock is a bit lower in LCD native compared to LCD standard for me, not sure if that makes any difference).

There was a different configuration that I also got working where I used a combination of Nvidia control panel and CRU/pixel patch.
In CRU, left the extension as default, and just directly added a detailed resolution at 96hz. This refresh rate didn't appear in windows. Then I added the custom resolution through nvidia control panel at 96hz. In this mixed configuration 96hz was also working in full screen. Not sure what's going on here, seems it would be easier to just use only CRU.

In any case, thanks for the help.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yamadash*
> 
> Update on my situation. After applying Nvidia pixel clock patch (gtx 980ti) and using CRU, full screen at 96 hz (or at least it's not 60) is working. I also no longer see any of the temporary dips to 60 hz. I selected custom extension block, then edited that extension block and added a detailed resolution for 2560 x 1440p at 96 hz with timing set to LCD native (pixel clock is a bit lower in LCD native compared to LCD standard for me, not sure if that makes any difference).
> 
> There was a different configuration that I also got working where I used a combination of Nvidia control panel and CRU/pixel patch.
> In CRU, left the extension as default, and just directly added a detailed resolution at 96hz. This refresh rate didn't appear in windows. Then I added the custom resolution through nvidia control panel at 96hz. In this mixed configuration 96hz was also working in full screen. Not sure what's going on here, seems it would be easier to just use only CRU.
> 
> In any case, thanks for the help.


In CRU, it did say that custom extension block must be used for Nvidia cards. In any case, glad it's all working out for you. And yes, I prefer using CRU because all the games acknowledge those settings. 980TI huh... so nice


----------



## agent8

Hello all! First post and after reading (a lot of reading) I think the 2795 qhd is my next monitor. I have a few questions. I have my main gaming rig with a 970 gtx MSI 100me and I also have a htpc next to it with an old 430gt (which should work displaying 2k. What I have been doing is unplugging my current monitor switching the dvi between the 2 systems. Since this Crossover only has 1 dvi input, I don't want to be plugging in and out all the time.

1.Can I simply buy a dvi switcher to go back and forth between computers or will that mess something up? Something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Goobay-Out-Manual-DVI-Switch/dp/B000OGYFSI/ref=sr_1_10?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1444415087&sr=1-10&keywords=dvi+switch

2. Will a 1080p movie look much worse on this than a native 1080p monitor if I stretch it to fill the screen?

3. I am looking at this listing and it seems like this is a sale price.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-27-LED-2560X1440-100Hz-LG-IPS-Monitor-/221902610837?hash=item33aa6d2195

It ends today so I am going to have to really talk my wife into this quickly. Does this look legit? It's a pixel perfect and it is the 2795 that can overclock...

4. Last, this kind of goes along with question 1, does the overclocking all happen with the monitor or is it from the video card? In other words, if the switch idea works, will the monitor stay at say, 75Hz when I switch to the computer that has the 430gt or does it solely depend on the video card running it?

Thanks in advance and I'm glad to be here. Lots of great info and nice people.


----------



## N473

got nothing for question 1 or 2.

3. Do IT!! Your getting it $30 cheaper than mine that I just got last week. Everything on that posting looks right. Now I'm thinking about buying my second!

4. The over clocking happens from the computer and doesn't stay with the monitor. It's whatever the computer/GPU is told to output to that monitor. yiu would need to OC the monitor on both computers and hopefully when you switch back and forth it will recognize the monitor and automatically default to the right refresh rate. Not sure if it will or not.


----------



## agent8

Thank you for the help! Yeah, I don't know if that old 430gt can handle any overclocking but I'm not familiar with refresh rate ocing, just clock and memory speeds but it's worth a shot. Little scary ordering something so far away but from what I have been watching, they are packed pretty good and the seller would be out a lot of money too. I just checked the listing again and it does actually list the 430gt so I feel even better about it. I am just dreading the conversation with my wife. "What is wrong with your screen now?!?!" "It's the same size!?" It's coming from Korea!?!?"


----------



## N473

Overclocking a monitor isn't really putting stress on your graphics card. If you use the nvidia control panel, over clocking your monitor is as simple as creating a custom resolution and putting in whatever refresh rate you want to try out. Youll be fine with the 430 GT


----------



## agent8

YEEE HAWW! Just pulled the trigger.







I will have to go back and read up on all this overclocking and frame skipping stuff. I saw that they make a 32" Qnix for the same price and I almost jumped on it till I read the reviews. It really does seem like this is a magical monitor; over clockable, decent response, really good viewing angles all for around $300. Can't wait for it to arrive and finish Arkham Knight and go back to some older games.


----------



## N473

Glad the wifey approved! Hopefully she'll appreciate 100hz-120hz gaming as much as you.


----------



## tonyeezy

Haven't checked this thread in quite some time and am curious with a few things. I don't game much, when playing BF4 and the new Star Wars beta full screen never goes full screen! Windowed border-less works but full screen will always show windowed. Does this happen to anyone else?

Also is there a poplar ICC profile being used or are most just using the settings that came with?

I've had this monitor for several months now and love it so much. I have a 1080p screen next to it and I haven't dragged a window on it in months because of how terrible it looks compared to this one LOL. Some back light bleed when screen is all black on the top a bit but can't notice it on anything else.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonyeezy*
> 
> Haven't checked this thread in quite some time and am curious with a few things. I don't game much, when playing BF4 and the new Star Wars beta full screen never goes full screen! Windowed border-less works but full screen will always show windowed. Does this happen to anyone else?
> 
> Also is there a poplar ICC profile being used or are most just using the settings that came with?
> 
> I've had this monitor for several months now and love it so much. I have a 1080p screen next to it and I haven't dragged a window on it in months because of how terrible it looks compared to this one LOL. Some back light bleed when screen is all black on the top a bit but can't notice it on anything else.


You need to enable GPU scaling and set it to fullscreen with your video card drivers. FWIW I had some problems with AMD drivers on that for some reason.


----------



## tonyeezy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> You need to enable GPU scaling and set it to fullscreen with your video card drivers. FWIW I had some problems with AMD drivers on that for some reason.


I was giving that a shot before. I have a GTX 970 and under Adjust desktop size and position I have my resolution set and I selected the scaling mode to "Full-screen", tried "Aspect Ratio" as well and nothing in game. Override the scaling mode set by games and programs is also checked.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonyeezy*
> 
> I was giving that a shot before. I have a GTX 970 and under Adjust desktop size and position I have my resolution set and I selected the scaling mode to "Full-screen", tried "Aspect Ratio" as well and nothing in game. Override the scaling mode set by games and programs is also checked.


Did you make sure to select 'GPU' instead of 'Display'?

Just to be clear for this to work well in games (custom resolutions and such... I like 16:10 a fair bit for CS:GO), you need to use CRU for the games to recognise the resolutions you want to run at and at the right refresh rates... then you need to set scaling to use the GPU and set it to fullscreen to stretch it out without borders.


----------



## MIGhunter

Are you guys liking this over a 4k resolution?


----------



## gary66

Bought one of these, should be coming sometime this week. Looking forward to graduating from my 1080p 60hz benq!!


----------



## agent8

From what I have read, there isn't much discernible difference with only a 27" monitor. Many don't like the pixel density of 4k on a 27" plus running 4k on most games will cripple your frame rates unless you have a crazy fast set up. I think 1440p is the sweet spot right now.


----------



## BadRobot

If you're having trouble getting Chrome to sync with the UFO framerate test, make a copy of the chrome shortcut and add "--disable-extensions --disable-plugins --debug-plugin-loading" (no quotes) to the target line. It starts up Chrome with no plugins without having to disable all of them manually.


----------



## Jamietm

Evening all, made an account here just to say thanks for the info provided in this thread.









Ordered one of these monitors last week, (Tuesday) to the UK and it arrived today, very impressive getting it here in 6 days from S Korea.
I Ordered it from dream-seller since he had some of the best feedback on here and asked him to reduce the stated value of the monitor to reduce import duty, thankfully he obliged, quoting half the actual value on the parcel.
I went with a 'Pixel Perfect' model for £200 with the import duty being an extra £30. There are no dead pixels and very little back light bleeding, if any.
I have it overclocked to 96hz, with some colour correcting enabled as I found the default settings too dark.
Will probably get some sort of adjustable vesa arm / mount next to have it suspended above my desk.
The picture quality is great, a real step up from my 5 year old 27" 1080p ASUS.


----------



## gary66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agent8*
> 
> YEEE HAWW! Just pulled the trigger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will have to go back and read up on all this overclocking and frame skipping stuff. I saw that they make a 32" Qnix for the same price and I almost jumped on it till I read the reviews. It really does seem like this is a magical monitor; over clockable, decent response, really good viewing angles all for around $300. Can't wait for it to arrive and finish Arkham Knight and go back to some older games.


Did your monitor ship yet? I also ordered from them and have not received any reply yet. It does say ships the day after confirming payment so I assume is should be shipping sometime on Tuesday since Monday was the first business day of the week.


----------



## agent8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gary66*
> 
> Did your monitor ship yet? I also ordered from them and have not received any reply yet. It does say ships the day after confirming payment so I assume is should be shipping sometime on Tuesday since Monday was the first business day of the week.


I got an update today that the shipment information had been received in Korea. It states that it should arrive between the 13-16th but I can't fathom how it could get here that fast but we'll see...


----------



## MIGhunter

Is there a reason to buy from ebay? I see they have sellers on Newegg. Seems like Newegg would be more safe?


----------



## StrongForce

Just installed my monitor...it's awesome !! no dead pixels (ordered the perfect pixels so I hope..) the main problem I got is a vertical line on black background... not sure what to make of it, is it normal guys ? it seems only noticeable on black background.. I did a quick test on Hitman absolution, and holy sweetness, it looked sick ! even without calibration.. I gonna try the profile tomorow I'm super tired.. but I'll give a quick review.

UFO test and quick hitman test doesnt show ghosting (like serious not at all.. maybe it's because I'm tired..) but I waved the pistols in front of the lightblue sky, nothing, I'll have to try more tomorow, will play bf4 and stuff.

Backlight bleed and IPS glow seems like a non issue so far.. sure on the black background it's noticeable but otherwise it's not really..will play some stalker tomorow and see how it goes

Like I said no dead pixels that I found using multi colored test.

the main issue is this, I'll show pictures, keep it mind the IPS glow/backlight is absolutely not representative of the real world render.. for some reason with my camera it increases it x1000 :





And yea didn't took time to remove the plastic ahha.. was excited to try









Even this background that I'm using : http://www.youwall.com/?ver=Mzk0MA== is looking so amazing and epic on this screen compared to my TN, yet it is mostly black and white, with some brown, but running stock though..


----------



## agent8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Is there a reason to buy from ebay? I see they have sellers on Newegg. Seems like Newegg would be more safe?


Newegg price $340 vs $289 for one. They are all coming from the same place. Ebay has gotten a lot better with it's buyer protection. There is always going to be a risk buying something overseas like that but I believe that if you return the monitor, they have to pay the custom fees and they are stuck with fixing it. I don't hear a lot of people complaining that monitors arrive cracked. If anything, there are more stuck pixels than advertised or some other technical issue and almost every thing I have read shows that the sellers are willing to work with you.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agent8*
> 
> Newegg price $340 vs $289 for one. They are all coming from the same place. Ebay has gotten a lot better with it's buyer protection. There is always going to be a risk buying something overseas like that but I believe that if you return the monitor, they have to pay the custom fees and they are stuck with fixing it. I don't hear a lot of people complaining that monitors arrive cracked. If anything, there are more stuck pixels than advertised or some other technical issue and almost every thing I have read shows that the sellers are willing to work with you.


Good to know, thanks. Last week when I found this thread I looked and Newegg had some for the same $289 price. They are all sold out now.


----------



## agent8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Good to know, thanks. Last week when I found this thread I looked and Newegg had some for the same $289 price. They are all sold out now.


Really? The Pixel perfect model? Also, I don't believe newegg sellers use expedited shipping.


----------



## gary66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agent8*
> 
> I got an update today that the shipment information had been received in Korea. It states that it should arrive between the 13-16th but I can't fathom how it could get here that fast but we'll see...


Ok, I shouldn't worry then I think I ordered mine a day after you so maybe I'll get something later from them. I'm in Japan so I can kind of imagine a 2-3 day shipping since I am close but still haven't gotten anything. No rush though I won't have my new video card until Friday.


----------



## gary66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Good to know, thanks. Last week when I found this thread I looked and Newegg had some for the same $289 price. They are all sold out now.


I think another reason is that some buyers are international and ebay seems to work better than ordering from newegg.


----------



## agent8

Plus, I earned $5.78 in Ebay bucks! WOOT!
I have a question for owners... Can someone give me the measurement from the bottom of the screen down to the base? I have a center speaker (Logitech X-530 5.0 system) and the height on it is about 4". I have a feeling, it's not going to be able to sit there.

If that won't work, any suggestions on a cheap vesa stand? I really don't want to unscrew the panel to take off the stand but whatever...


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> Just installed my monitor...it's awesome !! no dead pixels (ordered the perfect pixels so I hope..) the main problem I got is a vertical line on black background... not sure what to make of it, is it normal guys ? it seems only noticeable on black background.. I did a quick test on Hitman absolution, and holy sweetness, it looked sick ! even without calibration.. I gonna try the profile tomorow I'm super tired.. but I'll give a quick review.
> 
> UFO test and quick hitman test doesnt show ghosting (like serious not at all.. maybe it's because I'm tired..) but I waved the pistols in front of the lightblue sky, nothing, I'll have to try more tomorow, will play bf4 and stuff.
> 
> Backlight bleed and IPS glow seems like a non issue so far.. sure on the black background it's noticeable but otherwise it's not really..will play some stalker tomorow and see how it goes
> 
> Like I said no dead pixels that I found using multi colored test.
> 
> the main issue is this, I'll show pictures, keep it mind the IPS glow/backlight is absolutely not representative of the real world render.. for some reason with my camera it increases it x1000 :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yea didn't took time to remove the plastic ahha.. was excited to try
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even this background that I'm using : http://www.youwall.com/?ver=Mzk0MA== is looking so amazing and epic on this screen compared to my TN, yet it is mostly black and white, with some brown, but running stock though..


That is not normal at all... if it was me, I'd be requesting for a return already. But it's up to you, though


----------



## StrongForce

The problem though, is how much I gonna end up paying for shipping ? and I might get another trouble that's worse.. I'll check in games and in movies (very dark ones..), if I can't see it then I might not return it..


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> The problem though, is how much I gonna end up paying for shipping ? and I might get another trouble that's worse.. I'll check in games and in movies (very dark ones..), if I can't see it then I might not return it..


Because it's a fault, I believe the retailer should cover shipping... at least that's what I read about greensum (the retailer I bought from). Either way, if it doesn't bother you then keep it. I went though the same thought process with the irregular light bleed at the top. Ended up just deciding to fix it myself instead of playing the lottery again.


----------



## StrongForce

Yea you're right, I'm gonna run more testing, play some stalker and find the darkest room/place I can find(or just night lol) if I can't see it there though I might not bother.. however, if this doesn't overclock well I could still get a replacement thanks to that probably eheh.

Is the Teksyndicate video overclocking guide for the other Crossover monitor good enough for overclocking this one ?

Also I heard there was a calibration profile on this thread but it's not in the first post, any clue ?


----------



## rissie

AFAIK there isn't any profile for this monitor... not even any drivers for it. Regarding overclocking... I'm not familiar with the video you're talking about... Just download CRU... follow the instructions for CRU and you will get that up quickly.


----------



## xtravagent

does anyone have an issue with a laggy mouse pointer on startup? basically the mouse pointer stutters when i move it around the desktop and its unusable.

the monitor is OC'd to 96hz. What I do is change it to my 110hz profile then change it back to 96. Then its fine, no more stuttering. Cant use 110 permanently cos way too many artifacts.

I do this everytime on startup. Maybe I need custom timings for 96hz? Any ideas?

edit: it's also showing a large number of artifacts on firefox now..


----------



## Malinkadink

Just want to know a quick bit of info on this monitor, how's the panel uniformity, ips glow, and lastly the matte coating on the monitor, is it closer to matte or semi glossy?


----------



## StrongForce

yeah definately asking for a new monitor, this isn't right :



from the front the upper side isnt so much noticeable but the downside is way too much, and as you can see the IPS glow/ backlight bleed is quite massive, and better represented with my iphone camera, haven't bothered reducing luminosity though.. since it's faulty I'll try to send it back tomorow.

I contacted the Green-Sum right away to warn him I might ask for a replacement and showed him that last picture, and asked if the monitors were tested (well I suggested they should test not only for dead pixels lol) and then he said it happens to have some minor troubles after shipping .. well that's not really minor to me.


----------



## agent8

Yeah, that looks like someone is in game with a flashlight in that dark room....LOL. Yeah, I would be returning as well. Hopefully, this is an isolated incident. That always sucks.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> Yea you're right, I'm gonna run more testing, play some stalker and find the darkest room/place I can find(or just night lol) if I can't see it there though I might not bother.. however, if this doesn't overclock well I could still get a replacement thanks to that probably eheh.
> 
> Is the Teksyndicate video overclocking guide for the other Crossover monitor good enough for overclocking this one ?
> 
> Also I heard there was a calibration profile on this thread but it's not in the first post, any clue ?


For overclocking, the link in the first post is good enough. I couldn't get 120Hz but managed 110 (using LCD reduced iirc?) and 96Hz (Lcd native). As for color calibration profiles, no clue. I don't recall seeing one posted so went based on my own eyes & using ATI control center.


----------



## Lady Luna

ICC profiles were posted here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1555354/official-crossover-2795-qhd-pwm-flicker-free-overclock-able-matte-1440p-ah-ips/280#post_24205244


----------



## hslayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unownbeing*
> 
> If anyone is interested I have some ICC profiles created with a ColorMunki Display using dispcalGUI. I ran calibration with the monitor at 96Hz, 2.2 Gamma and 6500k White Point. One is for White Level of 140cd/m2, the other is for roughly 180cd/m2
> 
> 27QHD-D6500-2.2-180WL.zip 691k .zip file
> 
> 
> 27QHD-D6500-2.2-140WL.zip 680k .zip file
> 
> 
> UDATE: 08/25-
> 
> New profiles after one month of use..
> 2.2 Gamma Profile:
> 
> 27QHD12015-08-2511-03D65002.2SXYZLUTMTX.zip 680k .zip file
> 
> 
> sRGB Profile:
> 
> 27QHD12015-08-2517-12D6500sRGBSXYZLUTMTX.zip 676k .zip file


hey thanks for post these up, btw do you have new profiles that you are using as of now?
also which one do I use? 2.2 gamma or sRGB? (I mostly game and watch movies on my monitor)

thank you!


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xtravagent*
> 
> does anyone have an issue with a laggy mouse pointer on startup? basically the mouse pointer stutters when i move it around the desktop and its unusable.
> 
> the monitor is OC'd to 96hz. What I do is change it to my 110hz profile then change it back to 96. Then its fine, no more stuttering. Cant use 110 permanently cos way too many artifacts.
> 
> I do this everytime on startup. Maybe I need custom timings for 96hz? Any ideas?
> 
> edit: it's also showing a large number of artifacts on firefox now..


Nope... don't have this problem at all... but it sounds like a software/vid driver issue? Did you managed to solve this yet?


----------



## xtravagent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> Nope... don't have this problem at all... but it sounds like a software/vid driver issue? Did you managed to solve this yet?


It seems to be better now, its been like 3-4 days and I haven't had the problem. Previously i had it everyday for about a week.


----------



## StrongForce

Cool thanks to for the profiles







.

I tryed to open the menu on the screen but it didn't work ? did I miss something, there is no manual or anything ..lol, how do I tweak luminosity and stuff ? unless I should just do it from drivers..


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> Cool thanks to for the profiles
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I tryed to open the menu on the screen but it didn't work ? did I miss something, there is no manual or anything ..lol, how do I tweak luminosity and stuff ? unless I should just do it from drivers..


Right click at desktop
Click on screen resolution
advanced settings
color management tab
Add the profiles to the right monitor

I haven't noticed a difference if I'm being honest... or maybe I've not associated it right either.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agent8*
> 
> From what I have read, there isn't much discernible difference with only a 27" monitor. Many don't like the pixel density of 4k on a 27" plus running 4k on most games will cripple your frame rates unless you have a crazy fast set up. I think 1440p is the sweet spot right now.


Your correct. 1440 set at 75Hz. is pretty impressive. I'm really liking this monitor so far. And the price was the best part. I overclocked mine using the EVGA Precision 16x tool. And walla it worked great.


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> Right click at desktop
> Click on screen resolution
> advanced settings
> color management tab
> Add the profiles to the right monitor
> 
> I haven't noticed a difference if I'm being honest... or maybe I've not associated it right either.


I'm noob the BL with arrow up and down is the luminosity







, not sure about the others buttons though mmmh and there is in fact an user manual but it's one page and in korean







, could some korean translate that for us please ahha, how do I change contrast ? I seem to have troubles to get the gamma look properly in the calibration app, the point in the middle is always visible, that is a contrast problem I believe.

I found this tutorial here https://pcmonitors.info/articles/using-icc-profiles-in-windows/ but I find it confusing.. is it just me or it's not properly explained ?

Just add the profile and click use this setting as default basically.. it seems, I haven't noticed any difference, could be that these screens are well calibrated by default (which they definately seem..).

Also I'm still waiting on a response from Green-sum concerning my return, their support departement is looking my case (how long can it take to see 3 pictures and notice there is a major fault








)

I wil rerun the windows calibration app and diminish the luminosity to the max I can.

Also after messing with the luminosity and clicking reload the actual calibration there is no change, so the ICC profiles are just for colors right ? not for contrast and luminosity.. that would make sense.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> Right click at desktop
> Click on screen resolution
> advanced settings
> color management tab
> Add the profiles to the right monitor
> 
> I haven't noticed a difference if I'm being honest... or maybe I've not associated it right either.


I just applied the gamma settings and there is a noticeable difference with the profiles now... the colors are less punchy (more realistic). Seems to have worked out for me. Thanks Unownbeing and Lady Luna! Sorry got the wrong person earlier!


----------



## Plasmidian

Hello everyone!

New user here, i bought a Crossover 2795 QHD AHIPS monitor from "helloemart" on ebay last week for my first 1440p monitor.

This is the seller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-27-LED-2560X1440-100Hz-LG-IPS-Monitor-/221902610837?hash=item33aa6d2195

Anyway! I setup the monitor and found it had a group of stuck pixels, really really bad right? I used the damp cloth & dull pen method to push it out and i fixed it, but the only problem is after fixing it i saw another dead pixel (which i never noticed before).

Can fixing a stuck pixel in turn cause a pixel to die? Is this a dead pixel? Im almost positive it is because on white backgrounds it black, but on red backgrounds i sometimes can't see it or it's green. I took some pictures with my macro camera. It's really not that much of a bother, and i really doubt i'll ever notice it for gaming, and if it truly annoys me i can always browse on my 1080p monitor.
Besides this stuck pixel i absolutely love this monitor EXCEPT THE STAND, the stand is just that fake glass thing that doesn't look very sturdy, i can't move it around at all, i will definitely be looking into VESA mount options.

The monitor is the smiley face logo.

The maybe dead pixel in question.





The box


OKay now that i'm getting to testing the monitor i am noticing a few things

It seems to NOT be at 75 hertz, which is annoying to say the last considering i ordered it for that reason in addition to others.

There seems to be a yellowish tint, it's hard to describe, it's not yellow per say but the whites are not as white / vivid as my 23" acer monitor. Picture for example.



Is this a defect? Is the monitor not how it's supposed to be? Or is it just the coloring of the panel?


----------



## agent8

I bought mine from the same seller. When I go to track it I see "Delivered - Signed for by : usps" that was yesterday. I sure hope that means UPS just got it and is delivering it today.
That sucks about the dead pixels. What really sucks is that you and I both bought the Pixel perfect one. It does look like it is in fact dead to me as the surrounding pixels usually make the dead pixel bluish in the ones that I have seen. 1 dead pixel is still acceptable, just sucks you had a few brand new like that. These were supposed to be checked but maybe something happens with the climate/ temp change or something during shipping. I know with most of these big item ebay purchases, you can usually talk to the seller and they will work something out before getting bad feedback.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plasmidian*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> 
> New user here, i bought a Crossover 2795 QHD AHIPS monitor from "helloemart" on ebay last week for my first 1440p monitor.
> 
> This is the seller.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-27-LED-2560X1440-100Hz-LG-IPS-Monitor-/221902610837?hash=item33aa6d2195
> 
> Anyway! I setup the monitor and found it had a group of stuck pixels, really really bad right? I used the damp cloth & dull pen method to push it out and i fixed it, but the only problem is after fixing it i saw another dead pixel (which i never noticed before).
> 
> Can fixing a stuck pixel in turn cause a pixel to die? Is this a dead pixel? Im almost positive it is because on white backgrounds it black, but on red backgrounds i sometimes can't see it or it's green. I took some pictures with my macro camera. It's really not that much of a bother, and i really doubt i'll ever notice it for gaming, and if it truly annoys me i can always browse on my 1080p monitor.
> Besides this stuck pixel i absolutely love this monitor EXCEPT THE STAND, the stand is just that fake glass thing that doesn't look very sturdy, i can't move it around at all, i will definitely be looking into VESA mount options.
> 
> The monitor is the smiley face logo.
> 
> The maybe dead pixel in question.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box
> 
> 
> OKay now that i'm getting to testing the monitor i am noticing a few things
> 
> It seems to NOT be at 75 hertz, which is annoying to say the last considering i ordered it for that reason in addition to others.
> 
> There seems to be a yellowish tint, it's hard to describe, it's not yellow per say but the whites are not as white / vivid as my 23" acer monitor. Picture for example.
> 
> 
> 
> Is this a defect? Is the monitor not how it's supposed to be? Or is it just the coloring of the panel?


Hey man. Use the EVGA Precisionx 16 to overclock that monitor. It's the easiest software to overclock that thing. It worked for me.


----------



## TylerAD

Does look off color wise, should NOT be that big of a difference. I would return and try again. Mine does not looked washed out and also does not have a hue as you have shown within your picture.


----------



## Plasmidian

Thanks, can i get some input on the color? It's definitely making skyrim look like it's autumn time all the time, and i can now tell a difference with two panels beside each other. Is this a defect? Should i return it?


----------



## StrongForce

Also do you guys all have the screen detected as a 27QHD instead of a 2795 ? not big deal though, as long as it's really a 2795 I mean lol, guess there must be a serial number to check somewhere.. but mine does have the smiley face logo.

I was thinking.. I launched GTA V today and it was night in game, and I couldn't notice that bar.. I mean it still sucks.. but I was thinking, perhaps I should just ask for a partial refund, say 50- or even 80 bucks ? or just ask for a partial compensation but I keep the monitor.. I will do more testing though before asking







, and they still haven't answered, I just don't want to get a worse replacement or like a dead pixel in the middle of the screen.. (then have to send it again..)


----------



## agent8

I hope their is an easier way to overclock the monitor besides Precision x. The last few revisions have sucked so bad. I went with afterburner for my fan profiles and such and it's so much easier and stable. Yeah, that monitors colors look off. Hard to say. When I get home, mine better be in one piece on the front porch with zero dead pixels and no pixel puke ugly colors. This is getting me nervous.


----------



## Plasmidian

My screen is detected as "generic pnp monitor"


----------



## Polarity

has anyone gone to 110hz?

EDIT: dam the more i do research feels like everyone is stuck at 96Hz stable no 110hz anyone have any insight? debating whether to get a 144hz @ 1080 monitor to go wtih my 2560x1440 or getting one of these and hoping for a 110hz :/


----------



## Blinkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plasmidian*


so does anyone have any ideas what happened with the color ?
looks spooky to me


----------



## zajklon

got mine for 16 days and its show a yellow vertical line down the middle... sigh 

and ofc dream sellers only accepts complete refunds and free reshipping up to 14 days. first and last time i buy korean crap....

320$ and 170€ of import costs for a broken monitor after 2 weeks of use. started a paypal claim and hope i get some back atleast... reshipping it on my costs to get it fixed will cost me 160€...

for 100€ more i had a decent 4k ips monitor :'(


----------



## xibalba88

Can you post your results after you get your monitor? I'm thinking of buying it from the same seller as you and Plasmidian but now I'm getting worried that the ones helloemart sells are not that great hence the lower price for the "pixel perfect" models.


----------



## Plasmidian

I was
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xibalba88*
> 
> Can you post your results after you get your monitor? I'm thinking of buying it from the same seller as you and Plasmidian but now I'm getting worried that the ones helloemart sells are not that great hence the lower price for the "pixel perfect" models.


I was going to get the monitor from newegg but found out that helloemart had a better return policy then the seller on newegg.

My monitor is still somewhat yellowish, it's definitely noticeable against the blueish white of my Acer 23", i've contacted the seller and am working with them to get me a new monitor or a refund. I'm really bummed because after playing for a while i'm trying to justify keeping it but i know i can't.


----------



## Dean478

delete (added to my current post)


----------



## xibalba88

Have to love how great and helpful the PC community is especialy the people here. Thanks for taking your time to reply and I really hope that things work out well for you. I imagine that the screen is amazing but you're right about the yellow tint. I'm saving the little money I have for one of these amazing monitors so posting yourexperince and thoughts really help out. Again thanks for your posts.


----------



## Plasmidian

So, my monitor is NOT hitting 75 hz. even with CRU it's only doing 60 hz, am i missing something here? i've rebooted and restarted and it just wont go to 75 hz. I'm guessing i got a crappy panel or something.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plasmidian*
> 
> So, my monitor is NOT hitting 75 hz. even with CRU it's only doing 60 hz, am i missing something here? i've rebooted and restarted and it just wont go to 75 hz. I'm guessing i got a crappy panel or something.


Personally I tried the CRU software to overclock my monitor and it didn't work. So I used EVGA PrecisionX 16 and only used it to increase the refresh rate. Got it up to 76Hz and it's running pretty smooth right now.I I use Afterburner from MSI to tweak my GPU and to overclock. Give EVGA a shot.


----------



## wickedout

Here's my screen shot to prove it can be done. If I can do it anyone can do it. Haven't had a chance to move it up yet. Have other tests going on with the CPU/GPU.


----------



## gary66

My monitor came today! I also order from Helloemart, the same pixel perfect one. With the face and not the crossover text.
I am happy to announce that I have no dead pixels. It is daytime right now so its hard for me to check for bleeding but I will make a post later!
As far as overclocking goes, I managed to get it to about 105hz easily. 110 has some fuzzy color line things so I don't think 110 will work for me.
I used the instructions here http://www.blurbusters.com/overclock/120hz-1440p-ips-monitors/ "how to overlock"

As far as the color goes I haven't compared it with my current 1080p 60hz benq but it looks nice! I play a game for about 30 minutes just so if it in action and let me say, I wish I would have bought this earlier instead of just grabbing the cheap 27 benq last year.

If anyone has any test request or pic request or something I can do them. Gonna fix up my desk now.


----------



## agent8

Well, mine came today. The box had some minor damage to it but nothing to worry about.


I opened up everything else and the first thing I notice is the inside of the stand. It looks like someone melted something inside of it...


Powered on fine but it seems I did not get the Pixel Perfect edition. I got the BIG FREAKING DEAD PIXEL version


I have had dead/stuck pixels before years ago on smaller screens. I was under the impression that with a 1440P panel, pixels are so small, it would be hard to notice one. On a black background, I can see this from 6 feet away. I am pretty livid right about now.



I don't know if it is just one or a cluster or if it is stuck or dead. I tried massaging it out and I am running JscreenFix now but I think it is dead. Maybe I am overreacting but this is in a crappy spot and is very noticeable. My phone is not taking accurate pics, I know it looks like the think has weird back-lighting stuff but it's actually pretty uniform and looks decent aside from the blue/green pixel on the black screen. I only see it on black and dark colored screens.

The only good note is that I think I overclocked it to 96Hz? I have no idea what I am doing, I just went into Nvideas control panel, changed custom profile and changed it again in the monitor properties to 96Hz. I did these Ufo whatever frame skip tests. Does this mean I did it correctly?



Maybe in the morning I will feel better about it. Right now I'm not sure if contacting helloemart would do any good since it looks like it is only one pixel. I dunno. I think I lost on this Korean lottery.


----------



## Dean478

Hello everyone,

First off, a big thank you to everyone who has contributed so far. I sincerely appreciate you sharing your experiences and information.

I recently lost my old Samsung SA27950D after it's power brick (spectacularly) failed. As a result, I'm in the market for an new monitor as my borrowed 20" BenQ replacement has over stayed its welcome! It's very difficult to find TN panels with similar colour quality to the SA27950D at 120 Hz that are actually affordable. I only paid $470 for the SA27950D 3 years ago, it failed one month before the expiration of its warranty. Something that also bugged me was that it was 27" and only 1080p. These days it seems I need to fork out close to $800 AUD for something even remotely similar!

In-fact I'm still in a little disbelief with the price. Especially now that I know these are the exact same panels being used in top of the line monitors. The additional $400 isn't worth it. Especially when you still receive a 1 year warranty and can replace the mount with something equally as sturdy as these top monitors. The hurdles I had to jump through with Samsung to get a replacement (which eventually became a full refund after I escalated my case to a State Civil Tribunal) has shown me that paying for the brand name is no longer valuable.

So naturally I've got my eyes fixed on a Crossover 2795 QHD (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-27-LED-2560X1440-100Hz-LG-IPS-Monitor-/221902610837?hash=item33aa6d2195:g:YXAAAOSwKIpWDkGO)

I do have a few questions though, and I apologise in advance if they've been answered. I've been reading like crazy but still I'm only 50 pages in!

1) Are the power bricks properly certified or are they cheap imitations?

2) Fellow Aussie customers, I'm assuming the power cables are US spec. and include those weird two prong plugs? Did the seller (in my case Green Sum) include a certified adapter? If not did you have any issues acquiring one from your local Bunnings or Dick Smith? I've currently got a universal adapter which includes a two prong US connection (which I believe is the same as the ones in Thailand I originally used it for) and found that these things are easily knocked out of the wall socket due to the lack of a grounding pin and angled prongs. Any advice for these?

3) How does the 96 Hz compare to a true 96 (or 120/144 Hz) device? A vague question I know, but my SA27950D was a 2 ms monitor (according only to the spec sheet) and I'm worried that when I overclock this to 96 I'm going to find it a little blurry or "not the same as real 96 Hz", if that is even a rational question? I'm starting to read the articles now but it's a little too technical and I'm still learning it all.

4)Has there been any new developments on this monitor? I'd have to purchase it to know there is something newer coming out in a few months. Therefore is it a great successor for my old Samsung in every way? (I'm aware there is no 3D, that's no issue anymore).

Thanks in advance for your help! I think that's all of my questions for now. smile.gif

Also another question (can't seem to edit my post whilst it's being moderated). But there are some monitors listed by a "gnAustralia" which claim to be a real 75 Hz clock.

Are these the same 2795 QHD models that have been easily clocked to 96 Hz? Are they simply stated as 75 Hz because they are tested in advance and guaranteed to that rate? I'm worried that perhaps they did not work after 75 Hz which means I'd be buying one and unable to reach 96 Hz.


----------



## Plasmidian

Hey guys, i tried to overclock it to 75 hertz with my Nvidia control panel to no avail. I am requesting a return / replacement today and will let you guys know how it goes!

I will say this, i have contacted helloemart THREE times in the last 24 hours with NO response whatsoever. If you're looking for a crossover i suggest looking somewhere else other than them.


----------



## Bones28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dean478*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> 2) Fellow Aussie customers, I'm assuming the power cables are US spec. and include those weird two prong plugs? Did the seller (in my case Green Sum) include a certified adapter? If not did you have any issues acquiring one from your local Bunnings or Dick Smith? I've currently got a universal adapter which includes a two prong US connection (which I believe is the same as the ones in Thailand I originally used it for) and found that these things are easily knocked out of the wall socket due to the lack of a grounding pin and angled prongs. Any advice for these?
> 
> Also another question (can't seem to edit my post whilst it's being moderated). But there are some monitors listed by a "gnAustralia" which claim to be a real 75 Hz clock.
> 
> Are these the same 2795 QHD models that have been easily clocked to 96 Hz? Are they simply stated as 75 Hz because they are tested in advance and guaranteed to that rate? I'm worried that perhaps they did not work after 75 Hz which means I'd be buying one and unable to reach 96 Hz.


I am from Aus and recently bought this monitor from helloemart, I didn't get an Aussie adapter, got a US/Canada adapter I think as mentioned in auction, but all I needed was a kettle plug/cord, luckily I had a spare one from a PSU that wasn't being used and it worked fine, just plugs into the power brick, not sure of the quality of the brick so didn't answer that

With those 75Hz Realclock auctions on ebay, I am sure I read to avoid those and look for 100Hz mentioned in the auction listings, like was the case in the helloemart one I bought.

I got one from his first batch of 20 before he put the price up $10 ( but the Aus dollar is worth more atm than when I bought it, to equal that out ), I think it has one dead/black pixel two inches from the side, which I only notice if I look for it, but I would have picked that over a bad overclocker, bad bleeding, bezel away from the screen which has happened in this thread, so I am happy enough, lesser of all evils and tbh I couldn't do anything about it anyway, one dead pixel is allowed under hellomarts perfect pixel policy, which is better than 3 allowed under dream seller for the same 'perfect pixel'

With overclocking, I did do it in Nvidia control panel first and still have it set there, but when I loaded up a game to see the resolution/Hz options ( Divinity : Original Sin ), it didn't show 96Hz as an option and I then did the pixel clock patcher/CRU method mentioned earlier in this thread ( page 107 ) and then 96Hz did show up as an option, I haven't tried higher than 96Hz and probably won't

If you get one, hopefully you get a good one


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dean478*
> 
> 1) Are the power bricks properly certified or are they cheap imitations?


Cant comment on power bricks quality, but you can find them on ebay (same specs as Welltronics brick used in most IPS Korean monitors):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-5A-AC-Adapter-Charger-For-Effinet-EFL-2202W-FY2405000-LCD-Monitor-4-pin-Tip-/230838320475

You can even find a power brick for your 950d:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-DC-Adapter-For-Samsung-S27A950D-LS27A950DS-EN-3D-LED-LCD-Monitor-Power-Supply/141789458527


----------



## agent8

No response from Helloemart on this end either. Lesson learned. This sucks. I tried watching a movie and even from across the room, the only thing I see is a dead pixel.


----------



## Bones28

I don't think they reply on weekends and you will have to wait until Monday, the same with some other sellers


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agent8*
> 
> No response from Helloemart on this end either. Lesson learned. This sucks. I tried watching a movie and even from across the room, the only thing I see is a dead pixel.


If it was a single dead pixel, it would be hard to spot even close up. Remember, thats 3,686,400 pixels (2560x1440) in a 27" screen. Could be a cluster of dead pixels if its that easily noticeable.


----------



## Bones28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agent8*
> 
> . I tried watching a movie and even from across the room, the only thing I see is a dead pixel.


My dead pixel is always black, but I can't see it unless I actually look for it and at some viewing angles it disappears completely, I am surprised you can see yours so easily from across the room, I know I wouldn't be able to

Maybe you have a cluster of them or it is a stuck or bright pixel, is it always black like mine on different colour backgrounds ?

I think this is the first time I have had a dead pixel, or at least haven't noticed them before, so have been looking up the difference between dead/stuck etc and how to fix them, sounds like dead/black pixels are much rarer to fix than the others, but at least it doesn't make itself seen unlike other types that stick out on certain backgrounds


----------



## Bones28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> If it was a single dead pixel, it would be hard to spot even close up. Remember, thats 3,686,400 pixels (2560x1440) in a 27" screen. Could be a cluster of dead pixels if its that easily noticeable.


I popped out of the room without hitting submit and you asked the same thing in the meantime, but I too am wondering if it is a cluster or different than my dead pixel for it to stick out, mine isn't easy to spot on certain colours, can't see it at all on some, doesn't show up on some viewing angles etc and certainly wouldn't see it across the room no matter the colour being shown

I have to lean in towards the monitor to see mine more clearly, lean back and the opposite happens and it's hard to spot even on a white background


----------



## gary66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plasmidian*
> 
> Hey guys, i tried to overclock it to 75 hertz with my Nvidia control panel to no avail. I am requesting a return / replacement today and will let you guys know how it goes!
> 
> I will say this, i have contacted helloemart THREE times in the last 24 hours with NO response whatsoever. If you're looking for a crossover i suggest looking somewhere else other than them.


Did you do this before trying?
http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher

Mine also displayed that message when I first tried, then I followed the tutorial and now it overclocks fine. (pixel perfect from helloemart)


----------



## gary66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bones28*
> 
> I popped out of the room without hitting submit and you asked the same thing in the meantime, but I too am wondering if it is a cluster or different than my dead pixel for it to stick out, mine isn't easy to spot on certain colours, can't see it at all on some, doesn't show up on some viewing angles etc and certainly wouldn't see it across the room no matter the colour being shown
> 
> I have to lean in towards the monitor to see mine more clearly, lean back and the opposite happens and it's hard to spot even on a white background


I know this is a stupid question but are you sure its not dust or dirt?
I was paranoid and thought the same thing I thought I had like 4-5 dead pixels. They were very small. Then I brushed my screen with a cloth and they disappeared. LOL.
Yea it was some dust....


----------



## rissie

So many new posts in about a day... wow... if you're having trouble maybe slow down a tad and search this thread... I found all I needed here.

*Overclocking of the panel:
*1. Did you first buy the right model... 2795 with 100Hz clock?
2. If you're using CRU did you apply the right driver patch? CRU won't work without patching... if you're stuck on 60Hz that's probably it.
3. If you're failing with Nvidia's custom resolution though - I'd check to make sure you have the right monitor delivered (while it says test failed... did it remain in a black screen until that message popped?)
4. Overclocking the panel is also dependent on your video card... my old AMD 6950 hacked could do 110Hz... my new MSI 970 ME100 can only do 105Hz
5. Just thought of another... make sure you set it as your primary display if you're running more than one monitor

*Colors*... it's hard for us to comment on color from a photo taken of the screen - we don't know your setup (your photo is also overexposed leading to both screens looking washed out). If you think your Acer monitor is right (I don't actually) it just means you have a preference for a "cool" white point... If that's the case you'll probably have to mess with your vid card drivers to set it up how you like it. The 2795 has a warmer white point (which I prefer for photo editting.. the icc profile posted is also for a "warmer" white point of 6500). Other things to check - are you running other color profiles? From memory, Windows only supports one color profile even if you have two or three monitors set up. By default the 2795 is very punchy with colors if all your other settings are default. You could try 1. removing your video card drivers with Display Driver Uninstaller (DDU) in Safe mode and then reinstalling them 2. Using CRU to reset all detected displays - this should ensure that you get an accurate picture of the monitor in stock settings.

*Stuck/dead pixels*... try some of the online tools that flashes various different colors for a day or so (not 1hr or less)... there have been reports of those pixels being unstuck (dead pixels tend to remain dead, though). That said, I'd prefer dead pixels because they will remain black and hard to notice especially at this density. With stuck pixels, apart from those tools, massaging them may help (it has only worked once on a very old panel for me).

For the other person who's encountered streaks after a period of use (were you overclocking it excessively?) also... I would have thought the seller would replace the monitor beyond 14 days (shipping aside)... sorry you have that problem







*Touching wood* mine's still going strong


----------



## crayhons24

Thinking about picking up this monitor and have a couple questions. Does something like a Square Trade warranty protect this monitor if something were to go wrong? Also, has anyone attempted to "paint" their bezel like this thread for the QNIX? When I was contemplating purchasing the QNIX I thought about following that guide and the bezels on the monitor look quite similar. If possible I'd like to get rid of that gloss.









TIA! I recently had a Asus ROG Swift and while I loved it, I didn't love the price and didn't feel that G-Sync gave me much of a benefit in the games I play. This monitor looks almost perfect for my needs, especially after I add a VESA mount.


----------



## agent8

Ok, I am trying an hour long seizure inducing youtube pixel fixer right now and I will run it a few times. Maybe someone can comment but I think it is in fact only one stuck pixel. It looks almost like a bright green or blue pixel and on a black screen, my eyes can see it 8 feet away. I tried to take it as close as possible. Maybe my eyes are just too picky, I don't think it is a cluster.?.




It really sucks because I played a game of Arkham Knight and it is really cool to have fps cap at 90 (usually only getting around 55-60 but still) with 1440P and then having my eyes instantly notice that pixel.







Otherwise, not a bad monitor.

I massaged it again but I am afraid of doing it too hard. We'll see what happens....


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polarity*
> 
> has anyone gone to 110hz?
> 
> EDIT: dam the more i do research feels like everyone is stuck at 96Hz stable no 110hz anyone have any insight? debating whether to get a 144hz @ 1080 monitor to go wtih my 2560x1440 or getting one of these and hoping for a 110hz :/


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plasmidian*
> 
> So, my monitor is NOT hitting 75 hz. even with CRU it's only doing 60 hz, am i missing something here? i've rebooted and restarted and it just wont go to 75 hz. I'm guessing i got a crappy panel or something.


Yeah, I got 110Hz. But it kept bugging out for random things. Like /r/battlefield's snow header https://gfycat.com/AgedTalkativeDassie or while playing darker maps in Rocket League. No problems in Dark Souls though. Still... I backed down to 96 for that neat stability.

edit: 110Hz in CRU with LCD reduced. Using R9 290 and stock cable.


----------



## Dean478

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bones28*
> 
> I am from Aus and recently bought this monitor from helloemart, I didn't get an Aussie adapter, got a US/Canada adapter I think as mentioned in auction, but all I needed was a kettle plug/cord, luckily I had a spare one from a PSU that wasn't being used and it worked fine, just plugs into the power brick, not sure of the quality of the brick so didn't answer that
> 
> With those 75Hz Realclock auctions on ebay, I am sure I read to avoid those and look for 100Hz mentioned in the auction listings, like was the case in the helloemart one I bought.
> 
> I got one from his first batch of 20 before he put the price up $10 ( but the Aus dollar is worth more atm than when I bought it, to equal that out ), I think it has one dead/black pixel two inches from the side, which I only notice if I look for it, but I would have picked that over a bad overclocker, bad bleeding, bezel away from the screen which has happened in this thread, so I am happy enough, lesser of all evils and tbh I couldn't do anything about it anyway, one dead pixel is allowed under hellomarts perfect pixel policy, which is better than 3 allowed under dream seller for the same 'perfect pixel'
> 
> With overclocking, I did do it in Nvidia control panel first and still have it set there, but when I loaded up a game to see the resolution/Hz options ( Divinity : Original Sin ), it didn't show 96Hz as an option and I then did the pixel clock patcher/CRU method mentioned earlier in this thread ( page 107 ) and then 96Hz did show up as an option, I haven't tried higher than 96Hz and probably won't
> 
> If you get one, hopefully you get a good one


Thanks for the info!

Good to know the kettle cord plugs straight it (and obviously then the brick ranges up to 240 V for us backwards people). A couple of my last Samsungs used those annoying two prong power cords so you could only use a specific cord for that brick.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Cant comment on power bricks quality, but you can find them on ebay (same specs as Welltronics brick used in most IPS Korean monitors):
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-5A-AC-Adapter-Charger-For-Effinet-EFL-2202W-FY2405000-LCD-Monitor-4-pin-Tip-/230838320475
> 
> You can even find a power brick for your 950d:
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-DC-Adapter-For-Samsung-S27A950D-LS27A950DS-EN-3D-LED-LCD-Monitor-Power-Supply/141789458527


That's okay, these all look legitimate. And anyway the brand names have proven that theirs can equally fail as catastrophically and they won't take responsibility...

What I was concerned of are these $2 imitations without any certification labeled on the brick itself. At one stage there were a lot of these circulating here in Australia for laptops and phones especially.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agent8*
> 
> No response from Helloemart on this end either. Lesson learned. This sucks. I tried watching a movie and even from across the room, the only thing I see is a dead pixel.


This is definitely the more concerning aspect. I don't know how it is overseas, but these very very confusing and sometimes contradicting descriptions won't hold here under consumer law. I imagine it'd be very easy to receive a full refund here in Australia based on some of the information being presented by posters.


----------



## Bones28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gary66*
> 
> I know this is a stupid question but are you sure its not dust or dirt?
> I was paranoid and thought the same thing I thought I had like 4-5 dead pixels. They were very small. Then I brushed my screen with a cloth and they disappeared. LOL.
> Yea it was some dust....


Hehe yeah I have wiped the screen a few times to be sure, I had a few other suspect dots like you that also turned out to be dust, but this one remains

It is a dead pixel and is always black no matter the colour on the screen and while it is rare to bring these types back to life I have read, at least they don't stand out unlike in agent8's unfortunate case, I had a feeling it was different/worse than mine, but he/she also may have a better chance to fix it compared to mine.

As I said in a previous post though, it really isn't a problem as it doesn't stick out when using the monitor and I certainly would have taken a dead pixel over other things that could have happened to the monitor


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bones28*
> 
> Hehe yeah I have wiped the screen a few times to be sure, I had a few other suspect dots like you that also turned out to be dust, but this one remains
> 
> It is a dead pixel and is always black no matter the colour on the screen and while it is rare to bring these types back to life I have read, at least they don't stand out unlike in agent8's unfortunate case, I had a feeling it was different/worse than mine, but he/she also may have a better chance to fix it compared to mine.
> 
> As I said in a previous post though, it really isn't a problem as it doesn't stick out when using the monitor and I certainly would have taken a dead pixel over other things that could have happened to the monitor


I, too, had this dust problem when it first arrived... so you're on to something. I thought I had a few dead pixels until I realized they were "shifting"







Wiping the screen gently fixed that.


----------



## gary66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Yeah, I got 110Hz. But it kept bugging out for random things. Like /r/battlefield's snow header https://gfycat.com/AgedTalkativeDassie or while playing darker maps in Rocket League. No problems in Dark Souls though. Still... I backed down to 96 for that neat stability.
> 
> edit: 110Hz in CRU with LCD reduced. Using R9 290 and stock cable.


I thought dark souls was frame rate capped?


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gary66*
> 
> I thought dark souls was frame rate capped?


Yeah but my artifacting occurred when very specific shades of grey appeared onscreen and the flickering/artifacting in the darkened arena of Rocket League. DS1 is ridiculously dark and no artifacting happened there. Elite Dangerous with vsync was 96Hz during good times though but thats when I switched to 96. I'll test again with 110 tomorrow.


----------



## StrongForce

My screen started to flicker like crazy with static, similar to what my other screen does, except with colors after a few minutes it stoped.. (same as with my other screen..) I found it very strange.. I know after some research my other screen problem is due to some leaking capacitor.. but here ? leaking capacitors too ?

Perhaps it's just because it's a bit cold in my room, it's 23.5 though.. not that cold either.

I made a video but don't really have time to upload I must go to work soon, but will post later, have any of you experienced similar problems ?

I think the return is getting more and more likely..


----------



## strykn

Damn, helloemart just upped the price right when I was about to order... how's greensum?


----------



## agent8

From the looks of it, Helloemart just sold all their crap reject monitors and then upped the price. I would payed 20-30 dollars more for one with no stuck pixels. I was hoping by now I would get used to mine but that bright green pixel is the only thing I see when I turn this thing on.


----------



## danielhowk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> 
> 
> Product Page (Korean).
> Overclocking Guide for AMD & Nvidia Graphics Cards.
> 
> Review by Playerwares. (Korean)
> [H]ard Forum Thread
> ICC Profiles
> 
> It uses a matte 2560x1440 LG LM270WQ1-SLC1 AH-IPS panel (proof).
> 
> The Crossover 2795QHD uses a 27" 2560x1440 resolution 8 Bit matte LG AH-IPS panel and can be overclocked. The Crossover 2795 does not use LED PWM Dimming unlike the Qnix/X-Star monitors, has excellent colour presets, high contrast and fast pixel response times. Its main downside is the use of a glossy black bezel which ruins the perceived black depth (
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/qr8Pco
> &
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/qnZMi6
> ). Unfortunately, most Korean monitors use glossy black bezels, as do expensive monitors like the Acer XB270HU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most versions (there are at least 3 for both the glossy and matte PLS versions) of the Qnix/X-Star use LED PWM Dimming which ruins motion clarity (
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/qSbVjo
> ) and cause some people to suffer from health issues like headaches and eyestrain. PWM Side Effects. Blur Busters 60hz vs. 120hz. The 2795 QHD has more accurate colours than all glossy Qnix/X-Stars (especially the new 07 glossy panel which uses PWM) and faster pixel response times/less ghosting than all PLS Qnix/X-Stars.


Hi i was planning on Dell U2515H till i stumble upon this monitor,
what are the pros and cons of crossover versus dell ?
and so far this monitor has been out for month is there any issue with it ? Flickering etc ?
the crossover 434k have bad flickering issue, how is this monitor so far now ? thanks


----------



## agent8

Just as an update, Helloemart has responded to my stuck pixel issue and asked for pictures. They said that the panels are inspected but may happen during DHL shipping. We'll see what happens.

Edit, just got this.

"Hello,

Thank you for the picture.

We'll speak with management and see what can be done. We ask that you be patient with us as we try to resolve this as soon as possible."

Man I hope they can do something. This totally ruined my weekend. That green pixel is like a pink elephant in a bathroom.

Edit: Helloemart is going to fully take care of me. I want to like this monitor so I will try it all again...


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strykn*
> 
> Damn, helloemart just upped the price right when I was about to order... how's greensum?


I'd order from greensum if you could. People here said he's quite good. Dream-seller is also an option. I bought mine from dream.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danielhowk*
> 
> Hi i was planning on Dell U2515H till i stumble upon this monitor,
> what are the pros and cons of crossover versus dell ?
> and so far this monitor has been out for month is there any issue with it ? Flickering etc ?
> the crossover 434k have bad flickering issue, how is this monitor so far now ? thanks


compared to the Dell, you can overclock the crossover 2795* without too much of an issue. The Dell has more inputs (DP, 2xHDMI, mini-DP, usb) and can turn 90 degrees. Dell is 2" smaller though so if that's the deciding factor on if it fits on the desk, go for the Dell. Otherwise, pretty much the same. 1440p, IPS, and 60Hz out the box.

edit: adding what I found here.

Dell is 10bit panel so has 1.07 billion colors vs 16.7 million of Crossover. Both are made by LG Display http://www.panelook.com/modelcompare.php?ids=22566,23651


----------



## strykn

Ordered a pixel perfect from green-sum just shipped today.. hopefully all is well and I win the korean lottery lol


----------



## danielhowk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> I'd order from greensum if you could. People here said he's quite good. Dream-seller is also an option. I bought mine from dream.
> compared to the Dell, you can overclock the crossover 2495 without too much of an issue. The Dell has more inputs (DP, 2xHDMI, mini-DP, usb) and can turn 90 degrees. It is 1" larger though so if that's the deciding factor on if it fits on the desk, go for the crossover. Otherwise, pretty much the same. 1440p, IPS, and 60Hz out the box.


just worried if there will be problem, im from malaysia i dont have great customer service like the States, is there lottery or some sort ? that the monitor will be flawless ? because Crossover 434k had many flickering issues etc, im wondering if anyone had problems besides stuck or dead pixels ? like flickering or it off and on by itself ?


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danielhowk*
> 
> just worried if there will be problem, im from malaysia i dont have great customer service like the States, is there lottery or some sort ? that the monitor will be flawless ? because Crossover 434k had many flickering issues etc, im wondering if anyone had problems besides stuck or dead pixels ? like flickering or it off and on by itself ?


A lot of users here have not had problems so far but yes, these aren't A grade displays. The lottery so far is on your side but there have been people who reported issues after use and some had pixel defects out of the box. Pixel Perfect is not worth it because you have no idea what their checking procedure is and if they even do it.

The crossover 434k is a completely different monitor and panel. I have no information on what that monitor can/can't do so can't compare it to the 2795. I have the 2795 and I can say there is no flickering or frameskip at 96 and 110Hz when I boot and log in to windows. Flickering only occured for specific animations/colors in specific games and on certain websites. Overal, 96Hz is a good setting to keep.

As far as I've read, there have been a couple of people who had issue that the panel displayed artifacts all over the screen or had a colored line from top/bottom or left/right.


----------



## danielhowk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> A lot of users here have not had problems so far but yes, these aren't A grade displays. The lottery so far is on your side but there have been people who reported issues after use and some had pixel defects out of the box. Pixel Perfect is not worth it because you have no idea what their checking procedure is and if they even do it.
> 
> The crossover 434k is a completely different monitor and panel. I have no information on what that monitor can/can't do so can't compare it to the 2795. I have the 2795 and I can say there is no flickering or frameskip at 96 and 110Hz when I boot and log in to windows. Flickering only occured for specific animations/colors in specific games and on certain websites. Overal, 96Hz is a good setting to keep.
> 
> As far as I've read, there have been a couple of people who had issue that the panel displayed artifacts all over the screen or had a colored line from top/bottom or left/right.


nice thanks for the detail explanation rep+ to you. dell u2515h is A grade displays ?
how to those people fix with artifacts all over the screen fix ? mail it back or they send a fix ?
my country i doubt i could get a 1 to 1 exchange after a couple of weeks, unless theres defect straight up i could exchange but otherwise if it appears after awhile then im pretty much stuck with it
thats is why im just checking this model Quality control check ? just to be sure


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danielhowk*
> 
> nice thanks for the detail explanation rep+ to you. dell u2515h is A grade displays ?
> how to those people fix with artifacts all over the screen fix ? mail it back or they send a fix ?
> my country i doubt i could get a 1 to 1 exchange after a couple of weeks, unless theres defect straight up i could exchange but otherwise if it appears after awhile then im pretty much stuck with it
> thats is why im just checking this model Quality control check ? just to be sure


After googling around, I believe the panel Dell uses is the LM250WQ1-SSA1 (grade A from manufacturer listed). We have the LM270WQ1-SLC1 or LM270WQ1-SLC*2* (grade B from manufacturer listed). Both are made by LG Displays. Here is a comparison of the various specifications, though that won't tell you a lot. In short, they are the same type of display but the Dell one has 1.07 billion colors vs 16.7 million since it's a 10bit display. Also, I was wrong in saying the Crossover is 24", it's actually 27".

So the reiterate, Dell = smaller display @1440p, more colors (10bit), tilt to portrait
Crossover = larger display @1440p, high chance to overclock to 96Hz (small chance for 110, very low chance 120Hz)

There are guides in the first post on how to fix excessive backlight bleed (due to panel being screwed in too tight or bezel not flush with the panel) and sometimes a pixel is just stuck and need to be unstuck through http://www.jscreenfix.com/ for example.

edit: As MenacingTuba said, 10bit is pretty much marketing for regular consumers/pc gamers.


----------



## MenacingTuba

*10 Bit Monitors*: 99% are *8 bit+FRC* and AMD Quadro or Nvidia Firepro gpu's are required to send+receive a true 10 bit signal. 10 bit consumer content (games, movies, TV) does not exist. Like the bit depth, the extra FRC is also a mostly meaningless specification which has no perceivable impact on image quality. 2795>Dell for PC gaming; Dell>2795 for use with external devices like consoles since the single input Korean monitors only work with computers.


----------



## lester007

thats true, if you do not use professional graphics card no 10bit even your monitor is 10bit


----------



## Vimm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strykn*
> 
> Ordered a pixel perfect from green-sum just shipped today.. hopefully all is well and I win the korean lottery lol


Same here. Due to arrive Thursday/Friday, hope I win the lottery as well and that DHL doesn't destroy the monitor. Bought a Crossover 27Q from Green-sum 3 years ago. It arrived w/o any dead pixels however the aluminium frame had gotten damaged during the shipping but the monitor itself was fine. I showed green-sum a picture of the damage and asked him of future problems by pressure being applied to the monitor inside. He told me it shouldn't cause any problems but offered me a new monitor if I paid the return shipment. I refused and kept the montitor since it was only a cosmetic fault. 3 years later no problems whatsoever. But much can change in 3 years regarding customer service. So lets hope for a perfect monitor for both of us!


----------



## agent8

The seller I bought mine from (helloemart) is going to send me a replacement and they are going to ask the manufacturer to check for zero dead/stuck pixels. They provided the return shipping label. Very cool. It was only one stuck pixel and they could have refused since policy on a pixel perfect it 1 so that was awesome. He did say that stuck pixels can happen during the shock of transport... Anyone know if there is any truth to that?
I think most of these monitors end up being really good, sounds like I just had bad luck.


----------



## rogergamer

I might get one of these for my 980 ti, how consistent are the overclocks? and how is the build quality? (bezels, stand, etc...)


----------



## agent8

I can only speak for the one that I had but I was able to get a 96Hz overclock in minutes with zero issues. I didn't push it further because I only have a single 970gtx. The bezel seemed ok. I have heard a few people talk about part of the frame drooping on some crossovers away from the screen but mine seemed fine. The stands on all of these are mostly junk. Limited adjustments and not super sturdy. I could have lived with the stand but since it has vesa mounts, I will be changing it as soon as my replacement arrives. The power brick seems a little cheap but it works. Viewing angles are awesome, colors were not too bad. It does seem picky about the dvi cable you use. I could only get it to work with the supplied cord.


----------



## Bryanud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Yeah but my artifacting occurred when very specific shades of grey appeared onscreen and the flickering/artifacting in the darkened arena of Rocket League. DS1 is ridiculously dark and no artifacting happened there. Elite Dangerous with vsync was 96Hz during good times though but thats when I switched to 96. I'll test again with 110 tomorrow.


Just wanted to say that I have the exact same artifacting that you do. On a very, very specific shade of gray I can get some blue artifacting. I wonder how unique it is or if it's something common to overclocking the 2795, or maybe one common to one of the used panels.

I don't worry about because I've seen it like twice in games. MGSV's gamma/brightness adjustment screen will trigger it every time.

Happens with pretty much any overclock, but is virtually imperceptible below 90hz for me. Get's worse the higher you go.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bryanud*
> 
> Just wanted to say that I have the exact same artifacting that you do. On a very, very specific shade of gray I can get some blue artifacting. I wonder how unique it is or if it's something common to overclocking the 2795, or maybe one common to one of the used panels.
> 
> I don't worry about because I've seen it like twice in games. MGSV's gamma/brightness adjustment screen will trigger it every time.
> 
> Happens with pretty much any overclock, but is virtually imperceptible below 90hz for me. Get's worse the higher you go.


I get red artifacts but only at 110Hz. And yeah, the woes of overclocking


----------



## Bryanud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> I get red artifacts but only at 110Hz. And yeah, the woes of overclocking


I don't really mind at all. It's really minor and for the most part doesn't really exist as a problem. It would probably be more of an issue at 110MHz since it gets worse as you go up, but my monitor and/or 980ti cant do that high without fuzzy green lines/glitches. Then again, I would think red artifacting is a little more offensive than dark blue on grey.

Do you by chance have MGSV? I'd be curious if it is triggered by the same shade of grey.


----------



## danielhowk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> I'd order from greensum if you could. People here said he's quite good. Dream-seller is also an option. I bought mine from dream.
> compared to the Dell, you can overclock the crossover 2795* without too much of an issue. The Dell has more inputs (DP, 2xHDMI, mini-DP, usb) and can turn 90 degrees. Dell is 2" smaller though so if that's the deciding factor on if it fits on the desk, go for the Dell. Otherwise, pretty much the same. 1440p, IPS, and 60Hz out the box.
> 
> edit: adding what I found here.
> 
> Dell is 10bit panel so has 1.07 billion colors vs 16.7 million of Crossover. Both are made by LG Display http://www.panelook.com/modelcompare.php?ids=22566,23651


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> *10 Bit Monitors*: 99% are *8 bit+FRC* and AMD Quadro or Nvidia Firepro gpu's are required to send+receive a true 10 bit signal. 10 bit consumer content (games, movies, TV) does not exist. Like the bit depth, the extra FRC is also a mostly meaningless specification which has no perceivable impact on image quality. 2795>Dell for PC gaming; Dell>2795 for use with external devices like consoles since the single input Korean monitors only work with computers.


The dell is 16.7million colors got it from tft central
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/dell_u2515h.htm
so basically even the colours 16.7million is the same on Dell U2515H and Crossover 2795 ? both 8bit panel. if thats the case the crossover is better than dell is nearly every aspect. except the A grade panel vs B grade panels ?


----------



## Blinkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danielhowk*
> 
> the crossover is better than dell is nearly every aspect


No
It's more like Dell is better than Crossover in every aspect
except:
Overclocking
Price

Dell murders Crossover in every other instance


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinkey*
> 
> It's more like Dell is better than Crossover in every aspect


This is incorrect. If all 2795 QHD's are like the one Playwares reviewed, then that means that they have nearly perfect colour presets and are close to being as good as a monitor can get. Dell is notorious for selling displays which vary considerably in terms of preset colour quality, the U2515H suffers from a bit of overshoot ghosting and has higher input lag. The Dell also uses a frame-less casing which has an inner black bezel which ruins the perceived black depth unless used with a bias light (bright light placed behind the monitor) and no other light sources...a set-up most people aren't likely to use. The Crossover has a glossy black bezel which only ruins the perceived black depth when placed in rooms with dimmer lighting. The Crossover will look less blurry when overclocked, as well as feel far more responsive, but it can't be easily returned and exchanged like the Dell.

Anyway, this is all pointless since danielhowk likes to ask about many different displays (first it was 40" 4k, now it's 25-27" 1440p monitors with and without sync tech which range from 300-1000$ US in price) and will likely never buy anything.


----------



## strykn

damn wasn't expecitng custom fees into canada, damn DHL .. cant wait to test out the monitor tho!~


----------



## Blinkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strykn*
> 
> damn wasn't expecitng custom fees into canada, damn DHL ..


Not DHL's fault
everything gets axed by 15% HST


----------



## whybother

I really wanted the Asus PG279Q for non-competitive gaming. However, due to quality control issues I've just bought a Chinese 2795 for £167 / $250 (eBay have a 20% off sale here atm). I suspect my chances of a defect-free monitor are higher than buying the Asus. What is the world coming to


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whybother*
> 
> I really wanted the Asus PG279Q for non-competitive gaming. However, due to quality control issues I've just bought a Chinese 2795 for £167 / $250 (eBay have a 20% off sale here atm). I suspect my chances of a defect-free monitor are higher than buying the Asus. What is the world coming to


*My Man! ... +R for even listing the FW900 in your specs*









Best monitor I've ever owned! Mine had an unfortunate accident (electrical surge) back in '07 and I have been looking for a suitable (LCD) replacement ever since ... and I'm still looking ... but these glossy overclockable Koreans aren't too bad especially for the dollars compared to the PG279Q and XB270HU ... you must have seen some of my posts like *THIS ONE*


----------



## EyeChoose

I'm about to pull the trigger for this monitor, i have 2 questions before i purchase if anyone would be kind enough to answer. First time purchasing a overclocking monitor and planning to try it.
1.Crossover 2795 is overclockable right ? if thats the case i see previous post from this thread some people overclocking it to 85hz some 90hz and some 110hz without skipping frames for all. Is it like silicon lottery, where overclocking results varies in each unit (Crossover 2795) ? or all will be the same where i can just take someone profile of overclocking and copy the same settings ?
2.I was reading one of the Reviews posted here : http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/15027-best-27-2560x1440p-monitors-ahva-ips-pls.html . In that forum it says Single Input Matte:Crossover 2795 QHD (more information; it's the best Korean monitor for PC gaming currently), I currently have 2 display and planning for the 3rd (Crossover 2795) as my main monitor, does that mean when i overclock Crossover 2795 and at the same time having other 2 display on at the same time the overclock effect from my Crossover 2975 doesnt work ?
Im being extra precautious because is going to be my first time overclocking, and i dont want anything to explode or spoil as my 1st time experience.
Thanks in advance.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bryanud*
> 
> I don't really mind at all. It's really minor and for the most part doesn't really exist as a problem. It would probably be more of an issue at 110MHz since it gets worse as you go up, but my monitor and/or 980ti cant do that high without fuzzy green lines/glitches. Then again, I would think red artifacting is a little more offensive than dark blue on grey.
> 
> Do you by chance have MGSV? I'd be curious if it is triggered by the same shade of grey.


Yeah, the red is annoying. And no, no MSGV. I dont have any of the big games that recently came out. Only Elite Dangerous benefits from higher refresh and even then the game limits itself by crushing its own fps to 5 or 10... worst bug in the game imo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> I'm about to pull the trigger for this monitor, i have 2 questions before i purchase if anyone would be kind enough to answer. First time purchasing a overclocking monitor and planning to try it.
> 1.Crossover 2795 is overclockable right ? if thats the case i see previous post from this thread some people overclocking it to 85hz some 90hz and some 110hz without skipping frames for all. Is it like silicon lottery, where overclocking results varies in each unit (Crossover 2795) ? or all will be the same where i can just take someone profile of overclocking and copy the same settings ?
> 2.I was reading one of the Reviews posted here : http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/15027-best-27-2560x1440p-monitors-ahva-ips-pls.html . In that forum it says Single Input Matte:Crossover 2795 QHD (more information; it's the best Korean monitor for PC gaming currently), I currently have 2 display and planning for the 3rd (Crossover 2795) as my main monitor, does that mean when i overclock Crossover 2795 and at the same time having other 2 display on at the same time the overclock effect from my Crossover 2975 doesnt work ?
> Im being extra precautious because is going to be my first time overclocking, and i dont want anything to explode or spoil as my 1st time experience.
> Thanks in advance.


1. Yes, silicon lottery. I wish the 120Hz profile worked but it didn't. 110 is max on my monitor but with artifacts and sometimes flickering for some games.
2. Only 1 monitor is overclocked. I have three monitors too with the 2795 as main and only that one is overclocked.


----------



## BadRobot

well.... something went wrong somewhere. I went downstairs and came back to the crossover with a black screen. When I try to extend the monitor in CCC it freezes for like 15s then acts like nothing happened. I can only extend my other monitor.

edit: Oh thank god! CCC was just being a *****. Maybe it didn't like the 96Hz oc? It's set to 60 now

edit2: lol, I can't overclock it to 96 anymore??? Shows BIOS and boot as usual then goes to black and login.

edit3: 75Hz at LCD native somewhat works. If only UFO test could give me a proper error. IS there no offline version?


----------



## strykn

awesome my display is near perfect, 0 backlight bleed and only 1 little black pixel on the red background.. 96hz so far going to try 110.



i dont know if its just me but the colours do seem a lot warmer , is there a way to calibrate this panel?

edit: the stand is such garbage i may need to buy a vesa one

eidt: cranked up the brightness on the monitor a bit and now it looks freakin' amazing


----------



## Dean478

Well, despite my initial hesitation and concerns, I'm beyond impressed.

I ordered the pixel perfect Crossover 2795 QHD from GreenSum for $430 AUD and it arrived today after approximately 2-3 days in transit from Korea to Australia (it spent more time being processed in Korea than anything else). I was not hit with any custom fees when it arrived.

Until recently I was using a Samsung SA27950D which is a 27" TN panel with 120 Hz refresh rate at 1080p. It had a very glossy screen to the point where I could easily see my reflection, even in the dark, and a very indented panel that would often reflect around the edge of the bezel. It's stand was an abomination. On the plus side, it had great colours for a TN and was a very responsive input. After that failed inside warranty I borrowed an old BenQ 20" TN which had a terrible matte screen that made things appear grainy. However I will compare t his monitor to the Samsung because that was my last true panel.

I'll give you the obvious "TLR" right now, it beats it in every way.

The monitor arrived in a QHD box shrink wrapped and packed appropriately with no visible damage. Greensum had also included an adapter for Australian power points which was very thoughtful as that particular auction only mentioned an included adapter for US/Canadian customers. I didn't require this as you can use any power cord with a kettle connection and plug that in, as another user had informed me previously.

As others have pointed out, the stand isn't the best. But I think a lot of reactions may be a little excessive or perhaps people have higher expectations. I don't think it's any worse than some BenQ or Samsung monitors that I have used. I'll certainly look to replace it with a custom VESA mount in the future. The base of my mount had some sort of hole in it. It's purely cosmetic and sits within the recess where the mounting pylon meets the base. Not sure what happened there, perhaps a defect of the manufacturing process, but I have no issue with it because once the mount is mounted, you can't tell.



Now for the testing. No dead pixels as far as I can tell. I've looked. Everything looks spot on. The only imperfection I have noticed is the panel in some places at the top doesn't quite line up with the bezel. It's not very noticeable unless I'm focussing on the edge. It seems the edge of the screen falls < 1 mm short of the bezel edge. Now I'm easily able to ignore this compared to my previous monitor which was perfectly aligned but instead featured a very reflective and thick bezel which reflected the edge of the screen and was hard to ignore.

The monitor easily over-clocked to 96 Hz. 110 demonstrates some very minor green artefacts when things become animated, and 120 Hz is outright fuzzy from the get go. Personally I expected 96-100 Hz and therefore am happy with this. I haven't tried 100 Hz yet. Having become quite used to 120 Hz, I can't really tell the difference from 96 - 120. Suffice to say it is absolutely noticeable going from 60 Hz to 96 Hz as I already knew from prior experience.

I've completed the frame skipping test as best as I can. If this doesn't qualify I'll get around to using another browser some time. But I'm certain it's working.



Overall, I'm very satisfied. An equivalent monitor from any named brand here in Australia will set you back ~ $900 AUD. This now leaves me with some left over cash for a future video card upgrade. If anyone has any questions regarding this monitor, feel free to ask! I'm happy to help any others who are leaning towards a purchase.


----------



## EyeChoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Yeah, the red is annoying. And no, no MSGV. I dont have any of the big games that recently came out. Only Elite Dangerous benefits from higher refresh and even then the game limits itself by crushing its own fps to 5 or 10... worst bug in the game imo.
> 
> 1. Yes, silicon lottery. I wish the 120Hz profile worked but it didn't. 110 is max on my monitor but with artifacts and sometimes flickering for some games.
> Only 1 monitor is overclocked. I have three monitors too with the 2795 as main and only that one is overclocked.


I was reading one of the Reviews posted here : http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/15027-best-27-2560x1440p-monitors-ahva-ips-pls.html . In that forum it says Single Input Matte:Crossover 2795 QHD (more information; it's the best Korean monitor for PC gaming currently), I currently have 2 display and planning for the 3rd (Crossover 2795) as my main monitor, does that mean when i overclock Crossover 2795 and at the same time having other 2 display on at the same time the overclock effect from my Crossover 2975 doesnt work ?
Sorry but does that mean if i overclock Crossover 2795, my Hz are lower with more display ? for example lets say if my monitor Crossover 2795 can go up to 110hz, with 2 monitor it be 100hz and a 3rd monitor it be 90hz ? example. the more monitor i have the lower the overclocking ability ?
While i was reading this Review http://playwares.com/dpreview/46398151 , this website doesnt explain the overshoot details. how is the overshoot at 60 hz and at overclock ?


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> well.... something went wrong somewhere. I went downstairs and came back to the crossover with a black screen. When I try to extend the monitor in CCC it freezes for like 15s then acts like nothing happened. I can only extend my other monitor.
> 
> edit: Oh thank god! CCC was just being a *****. Maybe it didn't like the 96Hz oc? It's set to 60 now
> 
> edit2: lol, I can't overclock it to 96 anymore??? Shows BIOS and boot as usual then goes to black and login.
> 
> edit3: 75Hz at LCD native somewhat works. If only UFO test could give me a proper error. IS there no offline version?


Maybe try uninstalling the drivers with DDU and reinstalling it again. After that patch the drivers with CRU again and try again... something might have corrupted your video card drivers. Someone gave a command to set chrome to help UFO test work properly a few pages back... maybe try that. It usually works for me after a reboot if it failed the first time.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strykn*
> 
> awesome my display is near perfect, 0 backlight bleed and only 1 little black pixel on the red background.. 96hz so far going to try 110.
> 
> 
> 
> i dont know if its just me but the colours do seem a lot warmer , is there a way to calibrate this panel?
> 
> edit: the stand is such garbage i may need to buy a vesa one
> 
> eidt: cranked up the brightness on the monitor a bit and now it looks freakin' amazing


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dean478*
> 
> Well, despite my initial hesitation and concerns, I'm beyond impressed.
> 
> I ordered the pixel perfect Crossover 2795 QHD from GreenSum for $430 AUD and it arrived today after approximately 2-3 days in transit from Korea to Australia (it spent more time being processed in Korea than anything else). I was not hit with any custom fees when it arrived.
> 
> Until recently I was using a Samsung SA27950D which is a 27" TN panel with 120 Hz refresh rate at 1080p. It had a very glossy screen to the point where I could easily see my reflection, even in the dark, and a very indented panel that would often reflect around the edge of the bezel. It's stand was an abomination. On the plus side, it had great colours for a TN and was a very responsive input. After that failed inside warranty I borrowed an old BenQ 20" TN which had a terrible matte screen that made things appear grainy. However I will compare t his monitor to the Samsung because that was my last true panel.
> 
> I'll give you the obvious "TLR" right now, it beats it in every way.
> 
> The monitor arrived in a QHD box shrink wrapped and packed appropriately with no visible damage. Greensum had also included an adapter for Australian power points which was very thoughtful as that particular auction only mentioned an included adapter for US/Canadian customers. I didn't require this as you can use any power cord with a kettle connection and plug that in, as another user had informed me previously.
> 
> As others have pointed out, the stand isn't the best. But I think a lot of reactions may be a little excessive or perhaps people have higher expectations. I don't think it's any worse than some BenQ or Samsung monitors that I have used. I'll certainly look to replace it with a custom VESA mount in the future. The base of my mount had some sort of hole in it. It's purely cosmetic and sits within the recess where the mounting pylon meets the base. Not sure what happened there, perhaps a defect of the manufacturing process, but I have no issue with it because once the mount is mounted, you can't tell.
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the testing. No dead pixels as far as I can tell. I've looked. Everything looks spot on. The only imperfection I have noticed is the panel in some places at the top doesn't quite line up with the bezel. It's not very noticeable unless I'm focussing on the edge. It seems the edge of the screen falls < 1 mm short of the bezel edge. Now I'm easily able to ignore this compared to my previous monitor which was perfectly aligned but instead featured a very reflective and thick bezel which reflected the edge of the screen and was hard to ignore.
> 
> The monitor easily over-clocked to 96 Hz. 110 demonstrates some very minor green artefacts when things become animated, and 120 Hz is outright fuzzy from the get go. Personally I expected 96-100 Hz and therefore am happy with this. I haven't tried 100 Hz yet. Having become quite used to 120 Hz, I can't really tell the difference from 96 - 120. Suffice to say it is absolutely noticeable going from 60 Hz to 96 Hz as I already knew from prior experience.
> 
> I've completed the frame skipping test as best as I can. If this doesn't qualify I'll get around to using another browser some time. But I'm certain it's working.
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, I'm very satisfied. An equivalent monitor from any named brand here in Australia will set you back ~ $900 AUD. This now leaves me with some left over cash for a future video card upgrade. If anyone has any questions regarding this monitor, feel free to ask! I'm happy to help any others who are leaning towards a purchase.


Congratulations on both your purchases! There's a link to a comment with a color profile for the monitor a couple of pages back. I managed 110Hz with LCD reduced and 96Hz with LCD native using CRU and an R9 290. Maybe you new owners can try that









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> I was reading one of the Reviews posted here : http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/15027-best-27-2560x1440p-monitors-ahva-ips-pls.html . In that forum it says Single Input Matte:Crossover 2795 QHD (more information; it's the best Korean monitor for PC gaming currently), I currently have 2 display and planning for the 3rd (Crossover 2795) as my main monitor, does that mean when i overclock Crossover 2795 and at the same time having other 2 display on at the same time the overclock effect from my Crossover 2975 doesnt work ?
> Sorry but does that mean if i overclock Crossover 2795, my Hz are lower with more display ? for example lets say if my monitor Crossover 2795 can go up to 110hz, with 2 monitor it be 100hz and a 3rd monitor it be 90hz ? example. the more monitor i have the lower the overclocking ability ?
> While i was reading this Review http://playwares.com/dpreview/46398151 , this website doesnt explain the overshoot details. how is the overshoot at 60 hz and at overclock ?


I don't think more monitors affect overclock ability. Can anyone test this?


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> Maybe try uninstalling the drivers with DDU and reinstalling it again. After that patch the drivers with CRU again and try again... something might have corrupted your video card drivers. Someone gave a command to set chrome to help UFO test work properly a few pages back... maybe try that. It usually works for me after a reboot if it failed the first time.


I'll try that when I get back from work. Might as well update to the latest catalyst version. And yeah, I copy pasted that command to here. Adding: --disable-extensions --disable-plugins --debug-plugin-loading :to the Target for a shortcut makes it load without plugins on.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> I'll try that when I get back from work. Might as well update to the latest catalyst version. And yeah, I copy pasted that command to here. Adding: --disable-extensions --disable-plugins --debug-plugin-loading :to the Target for a shortcut makes it load without plugins on.


Cools... hopefully everything works for you!

For those finding the monitor warm... are your previous monitors set to 6500K white point? Maybe set your previous monitor to that so you can get a feel of how that setting looks instead of the older 7300K / 9300K white point.

FWIW, you'll get adjusted to the new white point fairly quickly and personally think less blue light is better for your eyes.


----------



## smiley424

Hello everyone. I decided to join as I have just purchased all the pieces for my PC build, including this monitor. Alot of great info in this thread which convinced me to buy one!

I just wanted to post that green-sum on ebay is having a sale on these monitors this weekend, $279, the original price these were when they first came out I believe. If I hadn't already ordered from another seller...

http://m.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-AH-IPS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-Matte-/400974478465?nav=SEARCH


----------



## EyeChoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Congratulations on both your purchases! There's a link to a comment with a color profile for the monitor a couple of pages back. I managed 110Hz with LCD reduced and 96Hz with LCD native using CRU and an R9 290. Maybe you new owners can try that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think more monitors affect overclock ability. Can anyone test this?


Hoping someone able to tell us too







.
Btw when i purchase this monitor and when it arrives, What are the tests necessary to Test all Stuck and Dead Pixels , Frame skip, Overclocking ability. everything is needed before the 1 week period of Exchanging 1 to 1.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> Hoping someone able to tell us too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Btw when i purchase this monitor and when it arrives, What are the tests necessary to Test all Stuck and Dead Pixels , Frame skip, Overclocking ability. everything is needed before the 1 week period of Exchanging 1 to 1.


Max brightness and check all colors here: http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php
Use Black to check backlight bleeding. If you take a pic, it looks worse than using your eyes even though it's fine.

TestUFO for fps/hz validation: http://www.testufo.com/#test=framerates



PWM Dimming test (using your eyes only): http://www.testufo.com/#test=blurtrail

Frameskipping test (camera set to 1/20-1/30 aperture speed): http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping


----------



## whybother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> *My Man! ... +R for even listing the FW900 in your specs*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best monitor I've ever owned! Mine had an unfortunate accident (electrical surge) back in '07 and I have been looking for a suitable replacement ever since ... and I'm still looking ... but these glossy overclockable Koreans aren't too bad especially for the dollars compared to the PG279Q and XB270HU ... you must have seen some of my posts like *THIS ONE*


I've been keeping an eye on that thread hence making the choice to buy the crossover for work/casual games. I can't abide 60hz even at the desktop, so hoping it goes to the 96hz claimed or beyond. I plan to add the new Dell 27" TN for completive games and finally enter the 21st century.

I've had a number of FW900s over the years and doubt you'll ever find one worth keeping. Due to age and excessive use they all tend to have washed out colours. Unkle Vito has a number of units with <3000 hours and fully calibrated, but you'll need to pony up $1000+.


----------



## Vimm

Unpacked mine just now. I got a smiley logo instead of the Crossover text. No dead pixels, overclocked to 96hz w/o any problems. Don't know if I'll try any higher OC. Let's see how long it holds up


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vimm*
> 
> Unpacked mine just now. I got a smiley logo instead of the Crossover text. No dead pixels, overclocked to 96hz w/o any problems. Don't know if I'll try any higher OC. Let's see how long it holds up


Congratulations on your purchase and overclocking







I tried 110Hz and it worked fine on Windows 7 but flickers on Windows 10. Can't go back so 96Hz it is!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> Cools... hopefully everything works for you!
> 
> For those finding the monitor warm... are your previous monitors set to 6500K white point? Maybe set your previous monitor to that so you can get a feel of how that setting looks instead of the older 7300K / 9300K white point.
> 
> FWIW, you'll get adjusted to the new white point fairly quickly and personally think less blue light is better for your eyes.


My crossover and Asus are set to 6500K and my other Asus is set to 6900K. To me, the color on the crossover looks deeper/darker but it's not unpleasant or negative. I prefer that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> Maybe try uninstalling the drivers with DDU and reinstalling it again. After that patch the drivers with CRU again and try again... something might have corrupted your video card drivers. Someone gave a command to set chrome to help UFO test work properly a few pages back... maybe try that. It usually works for me after a reboot if it failed the first time.


I used Toasty when I installed windows 10 but I guess ATI CCC must have updated. Toasty'd again and 96Hz works fine. 110Hz sadly is not possible anymore because it flickers too much.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> I was reading one of the Reviews posted here : http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/15027-best-27-2560x1440p-monitors-ahva-ips-pls.html . In that forum it says Single Input Matte:Crossover 2795 QHD (more information; it's the best Korean monitor for PC gaming currently), I currently have 2 display and planning for the 3rd (Crossover 2795) as my main monitor, does that mean when i overclock Crossover 2795 and at the same time having other 2 display on at the same time the overclock effect from my Crossover 2975 doesnt work ?
> Sorry but does that mean if i overclock Crossover 2795, my Hz are lower with more display ? for example lets say if my monitor Crossover 2795 can go up to 110hz, with 2 monitor it be 100hz and a 3rd monitor it be 90hz ? example. the more monitor i have the lower the overclocking ability ?
> While i was reading this Review http://playwares.com/dpreview/46398151 , this website doesnt explain the overshoot details. how is the overshoot at 60 hz and at overclock ?


This might be because of Windows 10 but with 2 or 3 monitors total, 110Hz doesn't work but 96 is fine. Still, it's silicon lottery if 110 or even 120 is possible. High chance that 96 is the best you can do.


----------



## Stars

Guys, how is the input lag on this monitor in particular, for example if I wanted to play a fast paced shooter like COD on consoles, does the monitor introduce alot of overal latency? Be it slow pixel response time or input lag. Also does this monitor have an overdrive circuit?

Thanks in advance!

Im also one of the guys, who got a bad PG279Q, Im not willing to play more lottery and would rather get this monitor right here and wait till oled with it...

The thread is from may 15 which isnt exactly old, but is there possibly an alternative to this monitor already? Or is it the ONE monitor to get, if you want an overclockable IPS monitor?

Also, does the Crossover 2795 have a scaler? So for example is it possible to connect a PS4 via HDMI->DVI cable to this monitor or does it only work with native 1440p input?


----------



## agent8

I will answer what I can in no logical order...
No scaler, you get what you feed it. Not positive but I don't think you can run an adapter for ps4 but I could very well be wrong. I don't notice any latency issues. Then again, I can't see ms differences that easy but it is just fine for shooters. I have researched for weeks and this does seem like the magic monitor to get. and we will be waiting a long, long, long time for any type of affordable oled monitor.


----------



## Stars

thanks for the info @agent8, hope someone has a tip for using the monitor with consoles.

Seeing how most of 2795s overclock to 100-110hz, I wonder why LG doesnt slightly tweak the panel and release a 120hz version at least. It can only be better than the AUO trash that they sell in premium priced gaming monitors.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> My crossover and Asus are set to 6500K and my other Asus is set to 6900K. To me, the color on the crossover looks deeper/darker but it's not unpleasant or negative. I prefer that.
> I used Toasty when I installed windows 10 but I guess ATI CCC must have updated. Toasty'd again and 96Hz works fine. 110Hz sadly is not possible anymore because it flickers too much.
> This might be because of Windows 10 but with 2 or 3 monitors total, 110Hz doesn't work but 96 is fine. Still, it's silicon lottery if 110 or even 120 is possible. High chance that 96 is the best you can do.


Have you tried applying the gamma from the icc profile? That will make it less dark and contrasty. With just a few tweaks I got my Dell 2740L and this crossover displaying similar colors matched to about 99%... The crossover just has that slight accent to a grey that's slightly warm.

Glad the overclocking stuff is fixed... maybe the drivers got updated? In any case, I run it at 105 for games and 96 for normal browsing and stuff I think I'm set there. I used to be able to do 109 with AMD for gaming without artifacts oh wells... it's good enough for me


----------



## agent8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stars*
> 
> thanks for the info @agent8, hope someone has a tip for using the monitor with consoles.
> 
> Seeing how most of 2795s overclock to 100-110hz, I wonder why LG doesnt slightly tweak the panel and release a 120hz version at least. It can only be better than the AUO trash that they sell in premium priced gaming monitors.


I swear I read about people attempting to make this work with a ps4 or another consol. The only thing I could find was in a slickdeals post where someone simply stated that adapters won't work. http://slickdeals.net/f/8062032-27-qhd-crossover-perfect-pixel-2560x1440-tempered-glass-for-229-ebay

I know that it is very picky even with dvi cables. I tried multiple cables and the only one that would work at all was the one it came with.


----------



## strykn

do any of you guys use the 125% magnification setting on windows to make desktop stuff 'bigger'?


----------



## Advil000

On my 27" Crossover? No. Move the screen a touch closer to you.

But if you really need it, sure the display scaling features in Windows 8 and 10 are prertty darn good at it.


----------



## Dean478

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stars*
> 
> Guys, how is the input lag on this monitor in particular, for example if I wanted to play a fast paced shooter like COD on consoles, does the monitor introduce alot of overal latency? Be it slow pixel response time or input lag. Also does this monitor have an overdrive circuit?


The input lag, as far as I feel it, is non-existent. This monitor feels as responsive as my previous 120 Hz Samsung panel. This is the main reason I needed an overclock. I can't stand 60 Hz anymore and will never go back to it. My Samsung was 2 ms GTG and while this is apparently 4 ms slower, I can't really tell. But at the same time I don't sit there looking for it either.
Quote:


> Also, does the Crossover 2795 have a scaler? So for example is it possible to connect a PS4 via HDMI->DVI cable to this monitor or does it only work with native 1440p input?


No scaler. The back of the monitor has a power connection and a DVI connection. Nothing else. I've heard that using adapters will either not work or prevents the over-clock.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Only *Active* Displayport-Dual-Link DVI adapter for PC use will work; cheaper adapters are limited to 1920x1200, and this will not work with consoles.


----------



## Stars

Alright, thanks for your answer guys. Another thing I wonder- when you overclock this monitor above 100hz @ 1440p, doesnt it reach the DVI bandwith limit? I assume the panel could go up to 120hz more reliably, if the monitor used a Display Port instead of dvi-d.

I didnt calculate the exact limit for dvi-d @1440p but just from taking a look at the specs, it looks like the bandwith limit could be reached at 100hz or even less @1440p.


----------



## EyeChoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Max brightness and check all colors here: http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php
> Use Black to check backlight bleeding. If you take a pic, it looks worse than using your eyes even though it's fine.
> 
> TestUFO for fps/hz validation: http://www.testufo.com/#test=framerates
> 
> 
> 
> PWM Dimming test (using your eyes only): http://www.testufo.com/#test=blurtrail
> 
> Frameskipping test (camera set to 1/20-1/30 aperture speed): http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping


only 3 test ? i thought was way more complicated than that. thanks for the help. is it worth purchasing Perfect Pixel from green sum from ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-IPS-Monitor-Matte-/141740633783?hash=item2100666eb7:g:RY0AAOSw~gRVxtXn for extra 40$ over the normal one ? im hoping i get 0 dead / stuck pixels.
and can anyone verify if overclocking the crossover 2795 and having multiple display at the same time. does the overclocking be affected or reduced ?


----------



## strykn

after moving the monitor closer, I am noticing some graininess when browsing the web on a white background.. im assuming this is normal because of the matte coated screen?


----------



## Dean478

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> only 3 test ? i thought was way more complicated than that. thanks for the help. is it worth purchasing Perfect Pixel from green sum from ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-IPS-Monitor-Matte-/141740633783?hash=item2100666eb7:g:RY0AAOSw~gRVxtXn for extra 40$ over the normal one ? im hoping i get 0 dead / stuck pixels.
> and can anyone verify if overclocking the crossover 2795 and having multiple display at the same time. does the overclocking be affected or reduced ?


I did. For me it was an extra $30 AUD. But I'd rather spend $30 and have a solid claim for a full refund if there were any pixels, than not pay it and have a tougher time getting what I wanted. I received no issues.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strykn*
> 
> after moving the monitor closer, I am noticing some graininess when browsing the web on a white background.. im assuming this is normal because of the matte coated screen?


Yes. I've used a glossy screen before (my Samsung mentioned previously) and the grain effect is very minimum. My spare monitor I recently used, a near 10 year old BenQ, had a horrible grainy effect from the matte coating.

I sit pretty close to my screen, I find if I can see the grains, I'm sitting a little too close.


----------



## Twiffle

Is there a big difference between Crossover 2795 and Qnix 2710 ? Just see the Qnix being almost 100 dollars/euros cheaper than crossover.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> only 3 test ? i thought was way more complicated than that. thanks for the help. is it worth purchasing Perfect Pixel from green sum from ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-IPS-Monitor-Matte-/141740633783?hash=item2100666eb7:g:RY0AAOSw~gRVxtXn for extra 40$ over the normal one ? im hoping i get 0 dead / stuck pixels.
> and can anyone verify if overclocking the crossover 2795 and having multiple display at the same time. does the overclocking be affected or reduced ?


These are the 3 basic ones that'll tell you a lot about your monitor. You can open the case up and check what panel you have. Only 2 people have done it so far so we have very little information on what panels everyone has.

And I verified that. 2 or 3 monitors, 96 is good, 110 doesn't work (Windows 10). Windows 7, 2 or 3 monitors, 96 and 110Hz work. I could try 1 monitor tomorrow but I doubt it'll be stable with 110Hz on Windows 10. Plus that would severely limit my 3 monitor set up. I want more pixel real estate.


----------



## Dean478

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twiffle*
> 
> Is there a big difference between Crossover 2795 and Qnix 2710 ? Just see the Qnix being almost 100 dollars/euros cheaper than crossover.


My understanding is that the QNIX has a slower pixel response time and the recent models use PWM flickering. So at higher refresh rates you're going to get more motion blur and possibly eye-strain.


----------



## rogergamer

Just ordered one, anyone try to debezel it yet? or make it look better? also can anyone recommend a good replacement stand that doesn't look like ****? haha


----------



## jbmoron

I'm also interested in if this monitor can be debezelled like the qnix/xstar with LO2 panels. They had a nice metal frame underneath the thick glossy plastic.

Anyone took this thing apart yet?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twiffle*
> 
> Is there a big difference between Crossover 2795 and Qnix 2710 ? Just see the Qnix being almost 100 dollars/euros cheaper than crossover.


Read the first post. The most common versions of the Qnix/X-Star are junk compared to this.


----------



## Twiffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Read the first post. The most common versions of the Qnix/X-Star are junk compared to this.


Thank you very much!


----------



## vsseracer

Anyone find one that ships to Hawaii?


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vsseracer*
> 
> Anyone find one that ships to Hawaii?


Does Greensum not ship to Hawaii? All I know are Dream-seller and Greensum


----------



## vsseracer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Does Greensum not ship to Hawaii? All I know are Dream-seller and Greensum


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/321719207934?hash=item4ae7f587fe:g:ad4AAOSwpDdVd8i6&autorefresh=true#shpCntId

Only one I found so far.


----------



## EyeChoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> These are the 3 basic ones that'll tell you a lot about your monitor. You can open the case up and check what panel you have. Only 2 people have done it so far so we have very little information on what panels everyone has.
> 
> And I verified that. 2 or 3 monitors, 96 is good, 110 doesn't work (Windows 10). Windows 7, 2 or 3 monitors, 96 and 110Hz work. I could try 1 monitor tomorrow but I doubt it'll be stable with 110Hz on Windows 10. Plus that would severely limit my 3 monitor set up. I want more pixel real estate.


windows 7 overclock better ? maybe i should stick with it. didnt expect windows 10 or 7 could make different overclocking hz


----------



## vsseracer

Ordered one from EBay. Now I need to replace my 660ti.


----------



## whybother

Mine arrived today and within an hour I have contacted the seller for a return/refund. As others have mentioned above it has a strong yellow tint across the entire screen. It can only be removed by increasing the blue brightness/contrast. Maybe the low blue light "technology" this monitor now claims is a coating to the LEDs making them more yellow?


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whybother*
> 
> Mine arrived today and within an hour I have contacted the seller for a return/refund. As others have mentioned above it has a strong yellow tint across the entire screen. It can only be removed by increasing the blue brightness/contrast. Maybe the low blue light "technology" this monitor now claims is a coating to the LEDs making them more yellow?


Wow... if that's how they are doing it... that's pretty spectacularly stupid? There are some tempered glass screen protectors for phones that reduce blue light (UV really) radiation... I would have expected that kind of implementation where there isn't a change with the colour output of the devices. But it sounds like they royally f'd up a good product by taking out all of the blue if what you're saying is true!


----------



## strykn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whybother*
> 
> Mine arrived today and within an hour I have contacted the seller for a return/refund. As others have mentioned above it has a strong yellow tint across the entire screen. It can only be removed by increasing the blue brightness/contrast. Maybe the low blue light "technology" this monitor now claims is a coating to the LEDs making them more yellow?


increasing temp to 6800k fixed mine but wasn't suppperrr yellow, maybe different problems


----------



## Advil000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whybother*
> 
> Mine arrived today and within an hour I have contacted the seller for a return/refund. As others have mentioned above it has a strong yellow tint across the entire screen. It can only be removed by increasing the blue brightness/contrast. Maybe the low blue light "technology" this monitor now claims is a coating to the LEDs making them more yellow?


So who did you order it from so others can avoid it? You never said. Can you post the ebay link you used as a specific reference of what to avoid for everyone else?

I'll bet you either got an entirely defective one, or ended up with something that actually isn't a 2795 QHD inside.

What does the sticker on the back of your screen say it is?

The more info we have, the more happy buyers there will be.

I'm sorry you got a lemon. All I can tell you, is that the color on mine is beyond fantastic at this price range.


----------



## rogergamer

I just got my monitor and got it stable at 110hz, though there is 1 dead pixel.... sad sad

anyway, how do I check for and fix the yellow tint?

Edit: backed down to 105 as there were some artifacting I noticed a bit later, though it didn't drop any frames at 110

Edit: actually its stuck (white) not dead (black) trying to flash it off now


----------



## agent8

Mine had a pixel almost in the middle stuck bright neon green and I rubbed it, flashed it for almost a whole day and it was stuck forever. I am getting a replacement sent but that totally sucks. Truly a lottery. I hope I win this next time. Even if it stays at 75Hz, I would be happier than with a dumb stuck pixel.


----------



## EyeChoose

Does anyone know if the input lag for crossover 2795 depends on the Higher Refresh rate(overclock)
for example 60 hz = 5 ms input lag
90 hz = 4 ms input lag
100hz = 3 ms input lag etc?
does different Refresh rate = faster input lag or input lag will be the same as out of box and overclocked.


----------



## rogergamer

I just took it apart, you can't debezel it without replacing the case, because the internal parts are held together by the case. I am going to spray paint the bezel with plasti dip to give it a matte finish though, will update when the can gets here



PS: that piece of tape is for marking where my one dreaded stuck pixel is....


----------



## Jamietm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vsseracer*
> 
> Ordered one from EBay. Now I need to replace my 660ti.


Congrats on the purchase, just FYI I run 2 x 660ti in SLI overclocked and they can just about handle this res for stuff like dota 2, BF 3, CS:GO all maxed out settings, while hitting over 96fps to make the most of my monitor overclock.


----------



## Vimm

Sorry for the ****ty picture, light is really shoddy this time of the day. But just finished mounting my two Crossovers to my 2x monitor stand.
To the left the 2795 QHD (with ugly foot sticking out, going to remove that one later) and to the right its big brother 27Q.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> Does anyone know if the input lag for crossover 2795 depends on the Higher Refresh rate(overclock)
> for example 60 hz = 5 ms input lag
> 90 hz = 4 ms input lag
> 100hz = 3 ms input lag etc?
> does different Refresh rate = faster input lag or input lag will be the same as out of box and overclocked.


I don't think any of us have the proper equipment to test input lag. I doubt anyone here could properly answer your question.


----------



## EyeChoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> I don't think any of us have the proper equipment to test input lag. I doubt anyone here could properly answer your question.


from this http://playwares.com/dpreview/46398151
Crossover 2795QHD AHIPS LED error-free input of the rack is measured in 2.64ms in general use and gaming
is that overclocked or out of the box 60 hz ?
but 2.64ms input lag is seriously awesome.








by the way hows your monitor when it arrived any defects ? the past few posts have been defects mostly. still waiting and praying for mine.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> from this http://playwares.com/dpreview/46398151
> Crossover 2795QHD AHIPS LED error-free input of the rack is measured in 2.64ms in general use and gaming
> is that overclocked or out of the box 60 hz ?
> but 2.64ms input lag is seriously awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by the way hows your monitor when it arrived any defects ? the past few posts have been defects mostly. still waiting and praying for mine.


Probably out of the box 2.6ms. Mine arrived with no defects. But currently I'm having an issue where it powers off for a second or two and powers on again. I suspect the power supply but could possibly be pulling too much from the wall? I'll look into it. It doens't happen often but enough to be annoying.

I can't find anything conclusive on how refresh rate affects response time. What I did read is that say you overclock 60 to 120 and it takes 10ms to go from one frame A to B, you now have Frame A > 5ms Frame C > 5ms Frame B. Same 10ms but with a frame in between. Response time would be that it takes Pixel D in frrame A ?? ms to go from White to Black to White (or grey to grey). I'm no professional but that'd have no effect from the refresh rate except that frame C would have pixels that are already at a certain color/value before frame B happens. Again... not a professional here


----------



## rogergamer

this one stuck pixel is triggering my OCD so hard.... Will it go away with time? (tried heat, pressure, tapping, flashing, etc...)


----------



## agent8

There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason with stuck pixels. I have seen some go away years later, some right after rubbing them out and some never. I did the same as you and I tried my best to ignore it but I could never un-see it so I was able to get a replacement. Hopefully, the next one will have zero.


----------



## Advil000

EyeChoose

I think you might be misunderstanding the nature of input lag.

Input lag in overly simplistic terms is the delay related to how long between the monitor receiving a video signal from the computer and actually processing/displaying it.

Refresh rate wouldn't affect input lag any more than the space of time between two frames. If you are asking if a higher refresh rate would affect the single digit ms because the frames are compressed, the answer is yes it would be a few single ms faster simple because more frames are being delivered per second.

The real question is whether there is any meaningful ADDITIONAL delay caused by extra processing in the monitor's control board.

In the case of the Crossover, almost certainly not. It should be virtually the ideal case because it is nothing but a single input DVI controller, without even so much as an on-screen display.

My point here, is that your question isn't really a necessary one. The screen by it's nature will have supremely low input lag because it doesn't have any unnecessary processing going on internally, and it also happens to overclock to a nice refresh rate which by the nature of running a higher refresh rate and compressing frame times lowers input lag a tiny hair more.

As a contrast to the very fast Crossover, or my previous very fast BenQ 2720Z, I have a nice 47" 1080p TV that I used for several years for gaming, but discovered the up to 75ms display lag really doesn't cut it for any kind of competitive gameplay. So yes it matters, but this screen will be among the best you can possibly get for input lag.


----------



## rogergamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agent8*
> 
> There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason with stuck pixels. I have seen some go away years later, some right after rubbing them out and some never. I did the same as you and I tried my best to ignore it but I could never un-see it so I was able to get a replacement. Hopefully, the next one will have zero.


I assume you paid for the pixel perfect version? I didn't :/


----------



## tupamaro16

Question on this monitor.

Flying up to the states this christmas, and would like if possible to bring it back with me to Colombia, as shipping + taxes would equal half of the monitor's costs.

Question is, with what or how would I be able to test it out to ensure the monitor received at least works and turns on ?


----------



## agent8

I did but it was on sale cheaper than the normal variants. The description says that the manufacture can not do a return unless it is over 1 dead pixel for a pixel perfect one but the seller was kind enough to do a return. It should be here tomorrow night so my fingers are crossed. I have heard that the pixel perfects are just a gimmick but if it helps the return, it is worth it to me. Also, in case anyone was wondering, I asked if removing the stand would void the warranty since you have to essentially take the case apart and was told that as long as the bezel has no damage, they will honor the return. Good to know.


----------



## rolfathan

So, is this yellow tint thing suddenly a new issue with these?

These monitors have been really tempting me. I've seen no mention of this yellow tint anywhere else.

I can't imagine they would be dumb enough to yellow tint the frigging anti-glare coating.









Also, anyone see it sold on amazon? I tried looking for it on there. I'd even pay a little extra to have an easier time with the return process should something be defective.


----------



## rogergamer

how much did you get them for? mine was 279.9


----------



## EyeChoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Probably out of the box 2.6ms. Mine arrived with no defects. But currently I'm having an issue where it powers off for a second or two and powers on again. I suspect the power supply but could possibly be pulling too much from the wall? I'll look into it. It doens't happen often but enough to be annoying.
> 
> I can't find anything conclusive on how refresh rate affects response time. What I did read is that say you overclock 60 to 120 and it takes 10ms to go from one frame A to B, you now have Frame A > 5ms Frame C > 5ms Frame B. Same 10ms but with a frame in between. Response time would be that it takes Pixel D in frrame A ?? ms to go from White to Black to White (or grey to grey). I'm no professional but that'd have no effect from the refresh rate except that frame C would have pixels that are already at a certain color/value before frame B happens. Again... not a professional here


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Advil000*
> 
> EyeChoose
> 
> I think you might be misunderstanding the nature of input lag.
> 
> Input lag in overly simplistic terms is the delay related to how long between the monitor receiving a video signal from the computer and actually processing/displaying it.
> 
> Refresh rate wouldn't affect input lag any more than the space of time between two frames. If you are asking if a higher refresh rate would affect the single digit ms because the frames are compressed, the answer is yes it would be a few single ms faster simple because more frames are being delivered per second.
> 
> The real question is whether there is any meaningful ADDITIONAL delay caused by extra processing in the monitor's control board.
> 
> In the case of the Crossover, almost certainly not. It should be virtually the ideal case because it is nothing but a single input DVI controller, without even so much as an on-screen display.
> 
> My point here, is that your question isn't really a necessary one. The screen by it's nature will have supremely low input lag because it doesn't have any unnecessary processing going on internally, and it also happens to overclock to a nice refresh rate which by the nature of running a higher refresh rate and compressing frame times lowers input lag a tiny hair more.
> 
> As a contrast to the very fast Crossover, or my previous very fast BenQ 2720Z, I have a nice 47" 1080p TV that I used for several years for gaming, but discovered the up to 75ms display lag really doesn't cut it for any kind of competitive gameplay. So yes it matters, but this screen will be among the best you can possibly get for input lag.


@badrobot when did you started having this problems ? so far reading this forum, it seems like you're the only one with on off issue ? are you returning it or contacting your seller ? anyone else having this problem ?
@advil000 thanks having 2.6ms input lag is incredibly awesome







. which monitor are you currently using ?


----------



## agent8

WINNER WINNER CHICKEN DINNER!!!!! My replacement came today and it is glorious! Zero dead or stuck pixels running nice at 96Hz. If there is this "yellow tint" thing going on, I don't see it or it doesn't bother me.The colors look great and I am a bit of an audio/videophile that spends time calibrating and such. I notice that if I have a black background, I can see some back light bleeding if I am not looking at it dead on but I am always right in front of it. It's amazing how not having a stuck pixel makes me love this monitor so much more!


----------



## Twiffle

Do you buy from the "official dealer" or from some others? Just see so many sellers selling this screen and all located in Korea. Just want to avoid "fakes" .


----------



## agent8

I bought mine from helloemart on Ebay but the price has gone up. I paid $279


----------



## dranniK

Hi!

Just bought mine on 10/26 and received 10/29, all the way from S Korea to St. Louis, MO.

0 dead pixels, bought the base model from green-sum. Overclocked to 110hz, no artifacting in Overwatch or any other game I play. I do notice some minor artifacting on certain websites but it's of non-issue and don't see me changing it from 110.

I do have two questions however;

- So with the stand being complete utter junk, I opted for a monitor mound from Monoprice. The screws provided from Monoprice threaded very easily in the back of the Crossover, however they seem to be too long and the monitor is kind of dangling on my mount. Is there a required length of bolt needed for this monitor specifically and could someone provide it the full-sizing I would need to look for?

- Also, is there a way to get off the acrylic looking stand-stem(arm? idk) off the of the monitor after removing the stock stand?

Thanks!


----------



## agent8

The screw mounts for this seem to be on the shallow side of what I am used to. The only size Homedepot carries and what many have said are supposed to work is M4X10mm which are still a little long.I fixed this by using the little black rubber isolation things that come with many computer cases/hard drives to eliminate vibrations but I am sure any small rubber washer will work. I have read a few horror stories of people over tightening these mounts and doing major damage or getting them stripped inside so be easy. The "stem" has two screws that hold it inside but you have to take the monitor apart to get to them. I had an old samsung stand that I modified and I was fortunate that the stem didn't interfere with the mounting so I left it on. With my center speaker right there, I will never see it anyways.


----------



## rogergamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agent8*
> 
> I bought mine from helloemart on Ebay but the price has gone up. I paid $279


and it said pixel perfect?!?!


----------



## dranniK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agent8*
> 
> The screw mounts for this seem to be on the shallow side of what I am used to. The only size Homedepot carries and what many have said are supposed to work is M4X10mm which are still a little long.I fixed this by using the little black rubber isolation things that come with many computer cases/hard drives to eliminate vibrations but I am sure any small rubber washer will work. I have read a few horror stories of people over tightening these mounts and doing major damage or getting them stripped inside so be easy. The "stem" has two screws that hold it inside but you have to take the monitor apart to get to them. I had an old samsung stand that I modified and I was fortunate that the stem didn't interfere with the mounting so I left it on. With my center speaker right there, I will never see it anyways.


Thank you! I looked into the VESA holes on the back of the monitor and it looks as if you would have to torque a screwdriver pretty damn hard to get pass the the last thread. It bottoms out pretty shallow. Looks as if I'll be making a trip to Home Depot!


----------



## agent8

Yep, mine was the pixel perfect, 100Hz one. They go "on sale" every so often. There are some places I have seen that will do a "best offer" but you usually can only get them down 10 bucks or so.


----------



## vsseracer

Anyone have recommendations for a new monitor stand. Stock as mentioned is junk.


----------



## smiley424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vsseracer*
> 
> Anyone have recommendations for a new monitor stand. Stock as mentioned is junk.


Look up VESA mount in this thread, another member posted about using a Dell stand.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vsseracer*
> 
> Anyone have recommendations for a new monitor stand. Stock as mentioned is junk.


DELL P2213f paired with the Dell E-Stand Flat Monitor Metal Vesa Mounting Kit from eBay. This is the combination used by another 2795 QHD owner and the one referred to by smiley424


----------



## smiley424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> DELL P2213f paired with the Dell E-Stand Flat Monitor Metal Vesa Mounting Kit from eBay. This is the combination used by another 2795 QHD owner and the one referred to by smiley424


Yes, that is it, I have that on the way and will put up some pictures after I mount it up


----------



## kusje

Does anyone know the difference between this 2795 and the 27QHD?


----------



## rogergamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> DELL P2213f paired with the Dell E-Stand Flat Monitor Metal Vesa Mounting Kit from eBay. This is the combination used by another 2795 QHD owner and the one referred to by smiley424


I debezelled my 2795, waiting on some gorilla tape to put it together, will probably use this mount combo, thanks


----------



## EyeChoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Probably out of the box 2.6ms. Mine arrived with no defects. But currently I'm having an issue where it powers off for a second or two and powers on again. I suspect the power supply but could possibly be pulling too much from the wall? I'll look into it. It doens't happen often but enough to be annoying.
> 
> I can't find anything conclusive on how refresh rate affects response time. What I did read is that say you overclock 60 to 120 and it takes 10ms to go from one frame A to B, you now have Frame A > 5ms Frame C > 5ms Frame B. Same 10ms but with a frame in between. Response time would be that it takes Pixel D in frrame A ?? ms to go from White to Black to White (or grey to grey). I'm no professional but that'd have no effect from the refresh rate except that frame C would have pixels that are already at a certain color/value before frame B happens. Again... not a professional here


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rogergamer*
> 
> this one stuck pixel is triggering my OCD so hard.... Will it go away with time? (tried heat, pressure, tapping, flashing, etc...)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agent8*
> 
> There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason with stuck pixels. I have seen some go away years later, some right after rubbing them out and some never. I did the same as you and I tried my best to ignore it but I could never un-see it so I was able to get a replacement. Hopefully, the next one will have zero.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rogergamer*
> 
> I debezelled my 2795, waiting on some gorilla tape to put it together, will probably use this mount combo, thanks


Did 3 of you purchased the Perfect Pixel version or just Standard ?


----------



## agent8

Mine was the pixel perfect and this time around, it really is perfect.
Quote:


> Does anyone know the difference between this 2795 and the 27QHD?


I don't think the 27QHD can overclock as well along with some other differences. The 2795 is the monitor to get.


----------



## vsseracer

I do see a warm yellowing. Pretty sure it can be filtered out using NVidia control panel. Just don't have tools to do it properly so I am winging it. Bought from dream-seller. No bad pixels and only slight lower left backlight bleed. Took 5 days to receive from when I clicked buy on EBay.


----------



## Advil000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> @advil000 thanks having 2.6ms input lag is incredibly awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . which monitor are you currently using ?


Both. I use the 2795 QHD for gaming, positioned right in front of me and the 47" TV for secondary monitor and shows while gaming. It's just off to the side and a few feet farther away. I have very deep desks.


----------



## rogergamer

I didn't get the pixel perfect one since I missed the discount.... I had one stuck pixel on the side so not too bad, at least it's not dead.... so hopefully it will **** off after some extensive usage


----------



## djeck12

Hi, I've been following this thread for quite some time now, I bought mine from green_sum for only $269 on sale. And fortunately got no dead/stuck pixels and easily overclocked it to 96hz by following the instruction. Tried 110hz but sometimes it flickers when there's a bright scene so I turned it back to 96hz and been using it now for a month without any problems.

But there's one thing annoys me the most though I'm not sure if it's related to this monitor or maybe with my PC. My monitor won't wake up after sleep mode or let's say it crashes, shut down and I want to power it back on, It just won't display anything unless I unplug the power cable and plug it back in for about 20-30 seconds. My PC is running fine and I can see all the fans are spinning and my mouse and keyboard LED lights are also working so I'm not really sure if the problem is with the monitor or with my PC.

I thought it's just fine and won't bother me. But I just realized if im gonna use this monitor for long I really need to find a solution. It might cause major problems in the future if im always going to force it to shut down whenever my monitor won't display a thing after sleep mode.

Does anyone having the same issue? Do you think the problem is with my monitor? Or does it have something to do with my settings?

Sorry for the long post.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> @badrobot when did you started having this problems ? so far reading this forum, it seems like you're the only one with on off issue ? are you returning it or contacting your seller ? anyone else having this problem ?
> @advil000 thanks having 2.6ms input lag is incredibly awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . which monitor are you currently using ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> Did 3 of you purchased the Perfect Pixel version or just Standard ?


Standard from dream-selller. And my issue is gone I guess. It hasn't happened since I posted about it. magic?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djeck12*
> 
> Hi, I've been following this thread for quite some time now, I bought mine from green_sum for only $269 on sale. And fortunately got no dead/stuck pixels and easily overclocked it to 96hz by following the instruction. Tried 110hz but sometimes it flickers when there's a bright scene so I turned it back to 96hz and been using it now for a month without any problems.
> 
> But there's one thing annoys me the most though I'm not sure if it's related to this monitor or maybe with my PC. My monitor won't wake up after sleep mode or let's say it crashes, shut down and I want to power it back on, It just won't display anything unless I unplug the power cable and plug it back in for about 20-30 seconds. My PC is running fine and I can see all the fans are spinning and my mouse and keyboard LED lights are also working so I'm not really sure if the problem is with the monitor or with my PC.
> 
> I thought it's just fine and won't bother me. But I just realized if im gonna use this monitor for long I really need to find a solution. It might cause major problems in the future if im always going to force it to shut down whenever my monitor won't display a thing after sleep mode.
> 
> Does anyone having the same issue? Do you think the problem is with my monitor? Or does it have something to do with my settings?
> 
> Sorry for the long post.


That's the first I hear about it. Is it your main or do you have other monitors? Mine doesn't turn on till the windows logo.


----------



## djeck12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> That's the first I hear about it. Is it your main or do you have other monitors? Mine doesn't turn on till the windows logo.


Yes, this is my main. I don't have extra monitor since my pc is also newly built, I gave my old pc to my mother.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djeck12*
> 
> Yes, this is my main. I don't have extra monitor since my pc is also newly built, I gave my old pc to my mother.


I think it's related to the monitor because it has no board for an OSD and such. It relies solely on the feed the video card gives. What is your OS, gpu, motherboard? Maybe it's in the sleep settings of the OS or motherboard? I have W10 and from sleep to login screen the monitor takes about 3s to wake up (same for hours on sleep).


----------



## djeck12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> I think it's related to the monitor because it has no board for an OSD and such. It relies solely on the feed the video card gives. What is your OS, gpu, motherboard? Maybe it's in the sleep settings of the OS or motherboard? I have W10 and from sleep to login screen the monitor takes about 3s to wake up (same for hours on sleep).


3s is good enough, I can live even with 10s-15s as long as it wakes from sleep. Mine is Win 8.1 Pro and my gpu is Gigabyte gtx 980Ti g1 gaming with Asus z170-A motherboard. I tried checking the bios but I can't seem to find an option where you can choose s1-s3, I also tried tweaking the advance power options and allowed hybrid sleep. Checked my keyboard/mouse to "Allow this device to wake the computer" in device manager>power management.

I guess I have tried all the settings I know to figure it out but to no avail. This is not my first pc but this is the first time I had trouble waking my monitor from sleep


----------



## rissie

Sleep states are typically software or motherboard bios problems... http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2449984

May not be the latest but from a quick Google.


----------



## djeck12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> Sleep states are typically software or motherboard bios problems... http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2449984
> 
> May not be the latest but from a quick Google.


Thanks! imma take a look at this once I get home. I did update my bios a day after I built my PC, but it causes my games to slow down a bit, fps drops and lowered my scores in benchmarks. At first I thought it was the monitor after overclcocking. So I decided to re-format/clean install and use the older version of the bios and OC'd the monitor again and gave me good results. But yea! Thanks! I'll try it later and see what will happen.


----------



## EyeChoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djeck12*
> 
> Thanks! imma take a look at this once I get home. I did update my bios a day after I built my PC, but it causes my games to slow down a bit, fps drops and lowered my scores in benchmarks. At first I thought it was the monitor after overclcocking. So I decided to re-format/clean install and use the older version of the bios and OC'd the monitor again and gave me good results. But yea! Thanks! I'll try it later and see what will happen.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> I think it's related to the monitor because it has no board for an OSD and such. It relies solely on the feed the video card gives. What is your OS, gpu, motherboard? Maybe it's in the sleep settings of the OS or motherboard? I have W10 and from sleep to login screen the monitor takes about 3s to wake up (same for hours on sleep).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> Sleep states are typically software or motherboard bios problems... http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2449984
> 
> May not be the latest but from a quick Google.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rogergamer*
> 
> I didn't get the pixel perfect one since I missed the discount.... I had one stuck pixel on the side so not too bad, at least it's not dead.... so hopefully it will **** off after some extensive usage


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Advil000*
> 
> Both. I use the 2795 QHD for gaming, positioned right in front of me and the 47" TV for secondary monitor and shows while gaming. It's just off to the side and a few feet farther away. I have very deep desks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vsseracer*
> 
> I do see a warm yellowing. Pretty sure it can be filtered out using NVidia control panel. Just don't have tools to do it properly so I am winging it. Bought from dream-seller. No bad pixels and only slight lower left backlight bleed. Took 5 days to receive from when I clicked buy on EBay.


does anyone else have random flcikering issue ? like @badrobot previously ? so i could test it before the warranty ends ?


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> does anyone else have random flcikering issue ? like @badrobot previously ? so i could test it before the warranty ends ?


It just did it again. Purely light browsing with no intensive tasks in the background. The only thing I could thing it could be is the heating thing drawing too much power from the wall because it happened when it turned on? I tried replicating it but it doesn't seem to be that. This is incredibly weird. Maybe it's just the power supply not doing well.

edit: just 1 time so far.


----------



## EyeChoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> It just did it again. Purely light browsing with no intensive tasks in the background. The only thing I could thing it could be is the heating thing drawing too much power from the wall because it happened when it turned on? I tried replicating it but it doesn't seem to be that. This is incredibly weird. Maybe it's just the power supply not doing well.
> 
> edit: just 1 time so far.


it happen twice already? are you planning to contact your seller? for a fix or something?


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> it happen twice already? are you planning to contact your seller? for a fix or something?


Twice yes. Now a third this morning (about 4h ago from this post). And no, I don't think I will. At best they could send me a replacement power supply and at worst I'd have to send back my monitor. Not too bummed about it happening


----------



## Vimm

Anyone else here that has mounted the monitor on a VESA arm? When I touch the monitor or hit the desk which makes the screen wobble the screen flashes to black and sometimes stays black. Like its short-circuiting or something. Are the screws touching something inside the monitor?


----------



## agent8

Mine is mounted on vesa mounts and the screws are bottomed out but no flashing or black screens on mine.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vimm*
> 
> Anyone else here that has mounted the monitor on a VESA arm? When I touch the monitor or hit the desk which makes the screen wobble the screen flashes to black and sometimes stays black. Like its short-circuiting or something. Are the screws touching something inside the monitor?


I don't have a custom stand... but from the reports, the vesa screw mounts are fairly shallow... are you using the right screw length? If not are you over tightening the screws?

To make things more distinct... when you say it flashes to black - what about the LED power indicator? If that remains powered on (blue on mine) it may mean your DVI-D cable/mount point is loose.


----------



## chris92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rogergamer*
> 
> I just took it apart, you can't debezel it without replacing the case, because the internal parts are held together by the case. I am going to spray paint the bezel with plasti dip to give it a matte finish though, will update when the can gets here
> 
> 
> 
> PS: that piece of tape is for marking where my one dreaded stuck pixel is....


Hey there, I'm planning to de-bezel my monitors once my other 2 arrive, and I've just gone ahead and done my first one (almost).

What does it look like underneath yours? I got the C2 panel for my first monitor from Helloemart, but my other two are coming from Green-Sum and I really hope they are the same!

If yours looks like my first one does

this was taken from the top, then you should be good to go if you follow this tutorial https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5piavGXZDJv3Wj2E4MT_iE up until he removes the panel from the case.

I've taken out the backlighting cable and it looks like this


Does yours look the same?

edit: I forgot to mention, this is how it can be done http://www.overclock.net/t/1404407/how-to-create-a-vesa-mount-after-debezelling-your-monitor-qnix-qx2710 there's heaps of examples of how people have done theirs.

*ALSO! For anyone with a C1 monitor* (I'm looking at you BadRobot), does yours look the same? I just want to be prepared in case I receive C1 monitors as my other two. I really hope they are the same though.


----------



## rogergamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris92*
> 
> Hey there, I'm planning to de-bezel my monitors once my other 2 arrive, and I've just gone ahead and done my first one (almost).
> 
> What does it look like underneath yours? I got the C2 panel for my first monitor from Helloemart, but my other two are coming from Green-Sum and I really hope they are the same!
> 
> If yours looks like my first one does
> 
> this was taken from the top, then you should be good to go if you follow this tutorial https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5piavGXZDJv3Wj2E4MT_iE up until he removes the panel from the case.
> 
> I've taken out the backlighting cable and it looks like this
> 
> 
> Does yours look the same?
> 
> edit: I forgot to mention, this is how it can be done http://www.overclock.net/t/1404407/how-to-create-a-vesa-mount-after-debezelling-your-monitor-qnix-qx2710 there's heaps of examples of how people have done theirs.
> 
> *ALSO! For anyone with a C1 monitor* (I'm looking at you BadRobot), does yours look the same? I just want to be prepared in case I receive C1 monitors as my other two. I really hope they are the same though.


Oh I debezelled it already, just waiting for my new mount and stand to arrive


----------



## chris92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rogergamer*
> 
> I just took it apart, you can't debezel it without replacing the case, because the internal parts are held together by the case. I am going to spray paint the bezel with plasti dip to give it a matte finish though, will update when the can gets here
> 
> 
> 
> PS: that piece of tape is for marking where my one dreaded stuck pixel is....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rogergamer*
> 
> Oh I debezelled it already, just waiting for my new mount and stand to arrive


Oh, I didn't see an update. Must have missed it, haha. Did it go alright? I just took mine apart then. How did you go about sticking the PCB box to the panel?

Was your monitor a C1 monitor or a C2 monitor?


----------



## rogergamer

Ah I didnt post an update. I used gorilla tape, works great, some people use 3m extreme mounting tape. how do I tell what version mine is?

If you tape it down, let it sit for a day, the bond would be solid by then and you can feel the difference by picking the monitor up by the pcb casing

Also don't forget to wrap the bezel with electrical tape, I got shocked multiple times.


----------



## chris92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rogergamer*
> 
> Ah I didnt post an update. I used gorilla tape, works great, some people use 3m extreme mounting tape. how do I tell what version mine is?
> 
> If you tape it down, let it sit for a day, the bond would be solid by then and you can feel the difference by picking the monitor up by the pcb casing
> 
> Also don't forget to wrap the bezel with electrical tape, I got shocked multiple times.


Ah sweet, I've got a roll of gorilla tape at home I can use.

You'll be able to tell from this label on the back of the panel
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*




under the left side of the barcode.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rogergamer*
> 
> Ah I didnt post an update. I used gorilla tape, works great, some people use 3m extreme mounting tape. how do I tell what version mine is?
> 
> If you tape it down, let it sit for a day, the bond would be solid by then and you can feel the difference by picking the monitor up by the pcb casing
> 
> Also don't forget to wrap the bezel with electrical tape, I got shocked multiple times.


How did you get shocked lol did you not unplug it? Chris already showed you where the panel number is. I hope you don't have a third model from the same series.


----------



## rogergamer

C2, what's the difference?

I got shocked while it was on. was reaching for something behind the panel and my arm touched the bezel


----------



## Vimm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> I don't have a custom stand... but from the reports, the vesa screw mounts are fairly shallow... are you using the right screw length? If not are you over tightening the screws?
> 
> To make things more distinct... when you say it flashes to black - what about the LED power indicator? If that remains powered on (blue on mine) it may mean your DVI-D cable/mount point is loose.


Thanks for your reply buddy, it is as you say, the power stays on so it may be the dvi cable. What do you mean with mountpoint? The dvi-oulet on the monitor? If its loose, is t fixable?


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vimm*
> 
> Thanks for your reply buddy, it is as you say, the power stays on so it may be the dvi cable. What do you mean with mountpoint? The dvi-oulet on the monitor? If its loose, is t fixable?


I haven't looked at the back of mine, but typically the DVI port are usually held by hex standoffs that your cable is screwed into. As long as it wasn't overtightened before it should not come loose. So for your issue, I'd check that there is sufficient length/slack for the DVI cable and that your VESA mount screws are not pressing into the back of the monitor too much.


----------



## EyeChoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> How did you get shocked lol did you not unplug it? Chris already showed you where the panel number is. I hope you don't have a third model from the same series.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rogergamer*
> 
> C2, what's the difference?
> 
> I got shocked while it was on. was reaching for something behind the panel and my arm touched the bezel


Whats the difference between C1 and C2?


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> it happen twice already? are you planning to contact your seller? for a fix or something?


Figured it out. It can't handle the overclock. I'll set it to a lower setting in CRU and see how it does from there. I was watching a gif and 

They went away and came back a bit later. It's turned off 4-5 times in the last 30 minutes.

edit: 12h 40m later, nope. still goes dark. I'll message the seller.


----------



## EyeChoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Figured it out. It can't handle the overclock. I'll set it to a lower setting in CRU and see how it does from there. I was watching a gif and
> 
> They went away and came back a bit later. It's turned off 4-5 times in the last 30 minutes.
> 
> edit: 12h 40m later, nope. still goes dark. I'll message the seller.


how high did you overclock? that it started happening. your monitor black screen at all times now?


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> how high did you overclock? that it started happening. your monitor black screen at all times now?


Randomly. When I left the gif running it did it quite a bit but still no more than 3-4 times before i stopped it and posted here. From then I left it at 96Hz with a lower LCD setting in CRU.

I overclocked it to 110Hz when I got it. Still had artifacts but nothing I couldn't live with. Since Windows 10 it can't do 110 anymore so 96 is what I keep it at.


----------



## EyeChoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Randomly. When I left the gif running it did it quite a bit but still no more than 3-4 times before i stopped it and posted here. From then I left it at 96Hz with a lower LCD setting in CRU.
> 
> I overclocked it to 110Hz when I got it. Still had artifacts but nothing I couldn't live with. Since Windows 10 it can't do 110 anymore so 96 is what I keep it at.


Ever since you overlocked it back to 96hz, the issue ended? or still presist? and btw Whats the difference between C1 and C2?


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris92*
> 
> Hey there, I'm planning to de-bezel my monitors once my other 2 arrive, and I've just gone ahead and done my first one (almost).
> 
> What does it look like underneath yours? I got the C2 panel for my first monitor from Helloemart, but my other two are coming from Green-Sum and I really hope they are the same!
> 
> If yours looks like my first one does
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this was taken from the top, then you should be good to go if you follow this tutorial https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5piavGXZDJv3Wj2E4MT_iE up until he removes the panel from the case.
> 
> I've taken out the backlighting cable and it looks like this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does yours look the same?
> 
> edit: I forgot to mention, this is how it can be done http://www.overclock.net/t/1404407/how-to-create-a-vesa-mount-after-debezelling-your-monitor-qnix-qx2710 there's heaps of examples of how people have done theirs.
> 
> *ALSO! For anyone with a C1 monitor* (I'm looking at you BadRobot), does yours look the same? I just want to be prepared in case I receive C1 monitors as my other two. I really hope they are the same though.


Yep. Looks exactly the same.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> Whats the difference between C1 and C2?


Difference between C1 and C2: http://www.panelook.com/modelcompare.php?ids=19614,22566 pretty much nothing except one has more data filled in and the other doesn't on this comparison site.

And my issue of the screen turning off for a second or two then back on still persists. It starts showing red artifacts then turns off as if it can't handle the overclock.

edit: been trying to get ufo test to validate 96Hz but it's always 94-95 and then says I need to close plugins even though I loaded chrome without plugins and stuff.

For those wondering, add:"" --disable-extensions --disable-plugins --disable-plugin "" to the target line for the shortcut.


----------



## BadRobot

On my issue about the monitor turning off randomly for a second and turning back on: I believe it's because it can't hold 96Hz anymore since I upgraded to Windows 10 and updated the drivers too. Ufotest kept showing 94-95 and sometimes 96 fps on screen but never validated 96. I set CRU to LCD Native with 75Hz and it validated it. I'll see how it holds up before contacting ebay.

At 90Hz ufotest says "framerate varying" and it sticks to 88 or 89fps. It validated it a moment ago but now doesn't want to. I wish there was a more reliable way to test this.

Maybe I'll just buy a 144Hz freesync monitor instead


----------



## Advil000

Many browsers can't validate UFOtest at high hz and everyone complains about it. Try Chrome after doing a reset of settings. I really doubt this issue is related to the other for you.


----------



## rissie

Just to report... my gtx 970 died an untimely death (memory went bonkers when it went to sleep for 30 mins... zzz - second time it's happened to me on an Nvidia card). The monitor is back to clocking 110Hz.with an R9 290. So the video cards definitely do matter... and for me I have better luck with AMD it seems.


----------



## EyeChoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Advil000*
> 
> Many browsers can't validate UFOtest at high hz and everyone complains about it. Try Chrome after doing a reset of settings. I really doubt this issue is related to the other for you.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> Just to report... my gtx 970 died an untimely death (memory went bonkers when it went to sleep for 30 mins... zzz - second time it's happened to me on an Nvidia card). The monitor is back to clocking 110Hz.with an R9 290. So the video cards definitely do matter... and for me I have better luck with AMD it seems.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> On my issue about the monitor turning off randomly for a second and turning back on: I believe it's because it can't hold 96Hz anymore since I upgraded to Windows 10 and updated the drivers too. Ufotest kept showing 94-95 and sometimes 96 fps on screen but never validated 96. I set CRU to LCD Native with 75Hz and it validated it. I'll see how it holds up before contacting ebay.
> 
> At 90Hz ufotest says "framerate varying" and it sticks to 88 or 89fps. It validated it a moment ago but now doesn't want to. I wish there was a more reliable way to test this.
> 
> Maybe I'll just buy a 144Hz freesync monitor instead


How long is the average life span of a korean monitor before it breaks down?
especially crossover?
because my asus, samsung monitor is about 5-6 years old and is still working perfectly fine, im worried that crossover breaks down in a year or 2?


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> How long is the average life span of a korean monitor before it breaks down?
> especially crossover?
> because my asus, samsung monitor is about 5-6 years old and is still working perfectly fine, im worried that crossover breaks down in a year or 2?


I guess you can check back in three years or so... the monitor hasn't been out that long. There just isn't enough data to tell you how long it'll last.


----------



## rolfathan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> How long is the average life span of a korean monitor before it breaks down?
> especially crossover?
> because my asus, samsung monitor is about 5-6 years old and is still working perfectly fine, im worried that crossover breaks down in a year or 2?


Hard to tell. It's not a company that's been around for years and years, so really you have other "cheap korean IPS monitors" as a base to compare it to.

The thing I've noticed seems to fail the most on them is the external power brick, which is ok, as a replacement can be had for around $40 usually. That still is something you see happen after about three years of use. Sometimes sooner, sometimes later.

I have an Auria monitor, which if I recall was just a rebranded XSTAR or something like that. It was one of the korean monitors, being resold in the US at microcenter (which a US warranty was comforting) but I've had the thing for three years now, as of last month. The power brick died two months ago. I found one on Amazon for $50. It was business as usual.

The panels in these korean monitors are always rejected LG and Samsung panels. They produce panels in batches (not sure of the number, but let's say 50) then they test a few. If a single one has an issue (example, dead pixels), they just sell off the entire batch of 50 at a very low price.
They go back and check the production to see what caused the faulty panel, dead pixels) but more often than not, most of the panels are still ok. LG and Samsung don't want to waste the time and money to test them, but the companies like Crossover just buy up the rejected panels for dirt cheap, and test them to see if they have any major flaws. If not, they chuck them in their much cheaper chassis.

So the panel you are getting is still made by a very reputable company.


----------



## rolfathan

Anyone have audible hums with these monitors?

So I almost pulled the trigger on one of these today. I'm tired of having one 1440 monitor next to one 1080. Two of the same size and resolution seems to make a lot more sense to me.

Well, I was checking eBay and I see the regular listing, "Perfect Pixel" and then one I had never seen before "Ultimate"

Ultimate was around $400 and they claimed to test everything out more, but then I noticed something that somewhat freaked me out. They said an audible hum isn't considered a defect... I could not handle my monitor making an audible, high pitched, electrical hum all the time.

_(I just posted, but the last one was a response to a user. I feel like it makes more sense to do this as another post as I am asking a question to everyone now, rather than addressing the one user. Let me know if this goes against any rules and I will correct my mistake, and not make it again.)_


----------



## agent8

Mine is silent...


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> How long is the average life span of a korean monitor before it breaks down?
> especially crossover?
> because my asus, samsung monitor is about 5-6 years old and is still working perfectly fine, im worried that crossover breaks down in a year or 2?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolfathan*
> 
> Hard to tell. It's not a company that's been around for years and years, so really you have other "cheap korean IPS monitors" as a base to compare it to.
> 
> The thing I've noticed seems to fail the most on them is the external power brick, which is ok, as a replacement can be had for around $40 usually. That still is something you see happen after about three years of use. Sometimes sooner, sometimes later.
> 
> I have an Auria monitor, which if I recall was just a rebranded XSTAR or something like that. It was one of the korean monitors, being resold in the US at microcenter (which a US warranty was comforting) but I've had the thing for three years now, as of last month. The power brick died two months ago. I found one on Amazon for $50. It was business as usual.
> 
> The panels in these korean monitors are always rejected LG and Samsung panels. They produce panels in batches (not sure of the number, but let's say 50) then they test a few. If a single one has an issue (example, dead pixels), they just sell off the entire batch of 50 at a very low price.
> They go back and check the production to see what caused the faulty panel, dead pixels) but more often than not, most of the panels are still ok. LG and Samsung don't want to waste the time and money to test them, but the companies like Crossover just buy up the rejected panels for dirt cheap, and test them to see if they have any major flaws. If not, they chuck them in their much cheaper chassis.
> 
> So the panel you are getting is still made by a very reputable company.


Yeah, exactly. It's too early to tell and there have been enough people that have had issues already. Some within a month and others after 6 months or longer. I hope it's just the power adapter causing an issue and getting a new one of that will fix it. Just wonder what Dream-seller will say.

It's a good monitor in the sense that, at its price, is more expensive than if I had ordered locally. I wanted a monitor that could overclock and it is exactly what I got. At 96Hz, there is nothing at the same price point as it. If I keep it at 75Hz, I could have just bought something here though. But I wanted to hopefully get 110Hz which is impossible now thanks to windows 10.


----------



## EyeChoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> I guess you can check back in three years or so... the monitor hasn't been out that long. There just isn't enough data to tell you how long it'll last.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolfathan*
> 
> Hard to tell. It's not a company that's been around for years and years, so really you have other "cheap korean IPS monitors" as a base to compare it to.
> 
> The thing I've noticed seems to fail the most on them is the external power brick, which is ok, as a replacement can be had for around $40 usually. That still is something you see happen after about three years of use. Sometimes sooner, sometimes later.
> 
> I have an Auria monitor, which if I recall was just a rebranded XSTAR or something like that. It was one of the korean monitors, being resold in the US at microcenter (which a US warranty was comforting) but I've had the thing for three years now, as of last month. The power brick died two months ago. I found one on Amazon for $50. It was business as usual.
> 
> The panels in these korean monitors are always rejected LG and Samsung panels. They produce panels in batches (not sure of the number, but let's say 50) then they test a few. If a single one has an issue (example, dead pixels), they just sell off the entire batch of 50 at a very low price.
> They go back and check the production to see what caused the faulty panel, dead pixels) but more often than not, most of the panels are still ok. LG and Samsung don't want to waste the time and money to test them, but the companies like Crossover just buy up the rejected panels for dirt cheap, and test them to see if they have any major flaws. If not, they chuck them in their much cheaper chassis.
> 
> So the panel you are getting is still made by a very reputable company.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agent8*
> 
> Mine is silent...


yeah i wanted to make sure once i order i wont have any problems, im planning to get 2 of these monitor side by side, i hate returning it over and over again just to fix it. and it has only 14 days return policy so yeah, hopefully everything will be fine.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Yeah, exactly. It's too early to tell and there have been enough people that have had issues already. Some within a month and others after 6 months or longer. I hope it's just the power adapter causing an issue and getting a new one of that will fix it. Just wonder what Dream-seller will say.
> 
> It's a good monitor in the sense that, at its price, is more expensive than if I had ordered locally. I wanted a monitor that could overclock and it is exactly what I got. At 96Hz, there is nothing at the same price point as it. If I keep it at 75Hz, I could have just bought something here though. But I wanted to hopefully get 110Hz which is impossible now thanks to windows 10.


which monitor did you have in mind that could overclock at 75hz


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> yeah i wanted to make sure once i order i wont have any problems, im planning to get 2 of these monitor side by side, i hate returning it over and over again just to fix it. and it has only 14 days return policy so yeah, hopefully everything will be fine.
> which monitor did you have in mind that could overclock at 75hz


'

Id stick to getting one first. And i meant vs other monitors that couldnt overclock. stock 60 or 75Hz. Between 75 and 120/144 at 1440p, prices jump up quickly.

edit: If you want security in your purchase, I wouldn't get a cheap korean monitor. I chose this one because of two key words: cheap & overclockable. All I know is I don't want to go back to 1080p now xD


----------



## Twiffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> I wanted to hopefully get 110Hz which is impossible now thanks to windows 10.


Can't you just roll back to Windows 7 . That's what I did cause I don't think it's worth to go from win 7 to win 10 at the moment.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twiffle*
> 
> Can't you just roll back to Windows 7 . That's what I did cause I don't think it's worth to go from win 7 to win 10 at the moment.


I could but I have everything set up as I like it now. It'd be a hassle to redo it all for W7 again. Ah well, I'll get a freesync monitor soon anyways.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> yeah i wanted to make sure once i order i wont have any problems, im planning to get 2 of these monitor side by side, i hate returning it over and over again just to fix it. and it has only 14 days return policy so yeah, hopefully everything will be fine.
> which monitor did you have in mind that could overclock at 75hz


Look... that's exactly why your question is silly (sorry) and the answers are whatever you choose to believe. Name one company that never ever came up with a bum product. *Hint: there aren't any.

Even if the panels are by LG doesn't guarantee that this product will be flawless and working in 5 years. Every model of whatever makes don't always use the same panel. If you want to count Korean as a subset to look at... well include Samsung monitors that are pervasive everywhere. By that extension the average lifespan of all Korean monitors are probably upwards toward 8 years? Does that sound like good data???

At the end of the day, for the Crossover 2795... buy if you think the savings are worth the risks (possible dead pixels... fixable backlight bleed... short warranty) and warts (only DVI-D - which isn't a problem if you're buying this for low input lag and overclocking; ****ty stand; and non-glossy which is an issue for some folks). If you can't come to terms with those... *DON'T* buy it. It's that simple. No one knows if the monitor will last (yet)... no one knows if the specifications will change at any time (some folks having tinting)... no one knows if you'll get a problem free monitor. Just a few pages back a poor guy bought two monitors and BOTH had issues - I hope he got them sorted. Then you have some other folks including me with a fairly good monitor with minor issues that are fixable. It's a gamble and that's why this monitor is that cheap.

Like I've mentioned previously, I do think the monitor will last - monitors hardly fail... and this one is without a scalar - less electronics less points of failure. That said, if you're going to leave your monitor on 24/7 (as in running actual graphics tasks) - I'm not sure if it'll survive as long. Same for temperature extremes.


----------



## FLFisherman

Hey everyone. I bought this monitor a few weeks ago when it went on sale for about $280. It's excellent for gaming and looks astounding. However, I'd like to know exactly what settings you guys use for it. You know, brightness, contrast, hue, etc. I ask because on white background (word processing, web surfing) I am getting a bit of eye strain. It just looks off to me. When I'm gaming or watching videos it's no problem, so I'd like to know if you've made any adjustments to the settings that perhaps I could replicate.

I am using AMD Catalyst Control center.

Additionally, thanks for everyone who has posted here with input. This is really the only place to research the monitor.


----------



## strykn

bout 3 weeks after use, starting to get some upper backlightbleed.. odd because it was perfect for the first 3 weeks lol


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FLFisherman*
> 
> Hey everyone. I bought this monitor a few weeks ago when it went on sale for about $280. It's excellent for gaming and looks astounding. However, I'd like to know exactly what settings you guys use for it. You know, brightness, contrast, hue, etc. I ask because on white background (word processing, web surfing) I am getting a bit of eye strain. It just looks off to me. When I'm gaming or watching videos it's no problem, so I'd like to know if you've made any adjustments to the settings that perhaps I could replicate.
> 
> I am using AMD Catalyst Control center.
> 
> Additionally, thanks for everyone who has posted here with input. This is really the only place to research the monitor.


I had to downgrade to an r9 290 after my gtx 970 died prematurely. The graphics in desktop do look a tad more punchy with Catalyst than it did with the Nvidia drivers - I'm using the same ICC profile and gamma settings shared a while back. I can't remember which video card the original creator of the profile was using. I have an ancient spyder that I've not bothered to pull out to use, yet.


----------



## smiley424

Finally got my new PC build up and running with this monitor and so far no issues. I have it smoothly overclocked to 96 Hz, 120 was unstable.

I have not tested any other refresh rate yet and have not done a thorough pixel check, but so far everything looks awesome!

Running with a Nvidia 980 Ti.


----------



## BadRobot

If you're monitor does this on boot, check the cable for looseness



At least it's still working lol.


----------



## bezzell

So after updating Windows 10 today with the big update, and using the latest Nvidia driver. My 2975 will no longer overclock at all.

"Test failed. Custom resolution 2560x1440 At 96hz is not supported by your display."


----------



## Falkentyne

Latest Nvidia drivers broke the Pixel clock patcher and custom resolutions on newer video cards. It still works on the old Fermis.

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher?page=48


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bezzell*
> 
> So after updating Windows 10 today with the big update, and using the latest Nvidia driver. My 2975 will no longer overclock at all.
> 
> "Test failed. Custom resolution 2560x1440 At 96hz is not supported by your display."


??? I have windows 10, latest drivers for my 980ti, I think I got the latest update for win10 about 2 weeks ago, still working at 96fps/hz

are you saying a new win10 update just released and broke it? should I not update windows?


----------



## sgtdisturbed47

I just ordered one of these on eBay from Green-sum. I got pretty nervous as soon as I saw the DHL tracking, as I've had terrible experience with this company in the past. It should be here either today or Monday, and I'll be doing a review on it as soon as it does. I had to decide between this and the cheapest Acer 27" WQHD I could find (Refurbished Acer K272HUL) http://goo.gl/oZO4hl and between the 2, I should be happier with the Crossover. I did opt for the Perfect Pixel option, just in case.

It took me about 12 hours of researching different panels, panel tech, and brands to come to this conclusion. From what I've seen, the image quality is solid, the bonus is being able to "overclock" it, and I already have the articulated wall mount to mount it. I do teardowns on laptops, smartphones, and tablets every other day so taking this monitor apart to remove the junk stand is cake for me to accomplish.

I've only ever gamed on TN monitors and LG IPS televisions (VA panels caused way too many issues with dark textures and night sky, whenever the camera pans the textures go dark and disappear, same with stars in a night sky scene. I still don't know what causes this. Shame, because the black levels are spectacular). Since this Crossover is IPS, I should be happy with the gaming and photoshop results.


----------



## grsmobile

Hey guys,

I just received my Crossover Monitor (CrossOver 27Ganjidog AHIPS) and I got everything configured to 120hz (used ToastyX patch). Here is my current configuration.



I noticed a bit smoother mouse movement @ 120hz but it's no where near as smooth as my old monitor (Samsung 2233RZ 1680x1050 120hz) and that monitor was butter smooth. This new Crossover feels like only 75hz when it's really at 120hz. I also tried both DVI -I and DVI D outputs and same results. Any ideas why? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grsmobile*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I just received my Crossover Monitor (CrossOver 27Ganjidog AHIPS) and I got everything configured to 120hz (used ToastyX patch). Here is my current configuration.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed a bit smoother mouse movement @ 120hz but it's no where near as smooth as my old monitor (Samsung 2233RZ 1680x1050 120hz) and that monitor was butter smooth. This new Crossover feels like only 75hz when it's really at 120hz. I also tried both DVI -I and DVI D outputs and same results. Any ideas why? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Hmmmm ... no one wants to give grsmobile the "disappointing" news?









What you describe is a perfect example of an overclocked monitor that is "Dropping Frames"









You unfortunately got the "multi-input" version and I'm 99.9% sure your dropping frames. Try 75Hz-85Hz, you might get lucky and salvage some of your unstable 120Hz overclock, and even 75Hz is much better than 60Hz.
More info (and links) how to test *HERE* ... And although the QNIX panel is different, the same multi-input "frame dropping" principals apply *HERE* ...


----------



## grsmobile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Hmmmm ... no one wants to give grsmobile the "disappointing" news?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you describe is a perfect example of an overclocked monitor that is "Dropping Frames"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You unfortunately got the "multi-input" version and I'm 99.9% sure your dropping frames. Try 75Hz-85Hz, you might get lucky and salvage some of your unstable 120Hz overclock, and even 75Hz is much better than 60Hz.
> More info (and links) how to test *HERE* ... And although the QNIX panel is different, the same multi-input "frame dropping" principals apply *HERE* ...


I did the frame skip test and it says valid but it still feels like 60hz.... not sure whats going on


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grsmobile*
> 
> I did the frame skip test and it says valid but it still feels like 60hz.... not sure whats going on


You're going to need to set the aperture to 1/20 or 1/25. If you can't do that, download an app or good camera that can.

It's supposed to look like this for a pic that shows no frame skipping.


----------



## tonyeezy

Came in to post about the Windows 10 or Nvidia driver update because I noticed everything was sluggish after the update and it finally hit me and I checked the refresh rate in the control panel and it was back at 60hz and would not let me add the custom resolution with 96hz which I have been running since I got the monitor. So it's the Nvidia drivers that broke it?


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grsmobile*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I just received my Crossover Monitor (CrossOver 27Ganjidog AHIPS) and I got everything configured to 120hz (used ToastyX patch). Here is my current configuration.
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed a bit smoother mouse movement @ 120hz but it's no where near as smooth as my old monitor (Samsung 2233RZ 1680x1050 120hz) and that monitor was butter smooth. This new Crossover feels like only 75hz when it's really at 120hz. I also tried both DVI -I and DVI D outputs and same results. Any ideas why? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Not sure if it makes a difference... but you're in 16 bit mode not 32. Also, wow, I think you're one of the first (the first even?) to hit 120Hz on this monitor.

Things are smooth here for me at 96 and 110... maybe try a lower refresh rate and see if it feels better? Also, frame skipping isn't a screen cap and valid thing on that test... you need a camera at a slow shutter speed to see if the box is skipping any of the black boxes as it goes through them.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonyeezy*
> 
> Came in to post about the Windows 10 or Nvidia driver update because I noticed everything was sluggish after the update and it finally hit me and I checked the refresh rate in the control panel and it was back at 60hz and would not let me add the custom resolution with 96hz which I have been running since I got the monitor. So it's the Nvidia drivers that broke it?


If you're using CRU, it's important to repatch the nvidia drivers each time you change or update them - else the patched file is basically replaced by an unpatched version.


----------



## smiley424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonyeezy*
> 
> Came in to post about the Windows 10 or Nvidia driver update because I noticed everything was sluggish after the update and it finally hit me and I checked the refresh rate in the control panel and it was back at 60hz and would not let me add the custom resolution with 96hz which I have been running since I got the monitor. So it's the Nvidia drivers that broke it?


So this just happenned to me as well. I haven't checked too deeply into what was updated yet though. I just built this computer on Veteran's Day (November 11), and used the latest Nvidia driver dated November 9th.

I have not checked the update log to see what was updated. I did notice that the monitor used be identified as a 27QHD and is now identified as Generic PnP monitor.

I also wanted to add that before i had changed my refresh rate using the Nvidia Control Panel and a custom setting.

Looking at the thread linked above over at monitortests.com, it seems a roll back to the previous Nvidia driver will solve the issue.


----------



## FLFisherman

Does anyone know if there's a way to adjust the sharpness through software, since this Crossover doesn't have an onboard menu?


----------



## grsmobile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> Not sure if it makes a difference... but you're in 16 bit mode not 32. Also, wow, I think you're one of the first (the first even?) to hit 120Hz on this monitor.
> 
> Things are smooth here for me at 96 and 110... maybe try a lower refresh rate and see if it feels better? Also, frame skipping isn't a screen cap and valid thing on that test... you need a camera at a slow shutter speed to see if the box is skipping any of the black boxes as it goes through them.


First to hit 120, but also first to not feel any dif past 60hz, it looks like im SOL


----------



## BrokenPC

I have the multi input one. It's weird.. Up to about 81hz I get no frame drops but If I go higher it skips every other frame. I'm better off at 72 than 120. If you know what I mean. The game I am playing now is locked at 60 anyways but I had no issue with the latest 1511 Win10 and NVIDIA drivers clean install on my Qnix. I am going to pick up one of these single input crossovers and see what I get.


----------



## grsmobile

I went from a high speed 120hz 1680x1050 display playing fast paced fps games like HL1DM and HL2DM and now at 1440p 75hz even frame skips AND ITS SLOW AF and I hate it, really disappointed...sigh I should have waited till black friday and got a swift or something


----------



## BrokenPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grsmobile*
> 
> I went from a high speed 120hz 1680x1050 display playing fast paced fps games like HL1DM and HL2DM and now at 1440p 75hz even frame skips AND ITS SLOW AF and I hate it, really disappointed...sigh I should have waited till black friday and got a swift or something


Well, you bought the wrong one like I did if you were looking for speed. Plus gtg on these ips things can't compete. It's a matter of taste. I know your wallpaper will look much better on the crossover vs the swift.


----------



## Blinkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grsmobile*
> 
> first to not feel any dif past 60hz


overclock+multi input = skipping frames
no matter what test says


----------



## BrokenPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinkey*
> 
> overclock+multi input = skipping frames
> no matter what test says


Yep.. 72 works.. Not sure what the advantage is of 80 over 72.. But don't let it frame skip at 120 or whatever, it is worse than 60.


----------



## tonyeezy

I added the 96hz resolution in CRU and rebooted but still don't see 96hz in my monitor settings, I'm guessing that isn't the correct way to do it? Lol.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonyeezy*
> 
> I added the 96hz resolution in CRU and rebooted but still don't see 96hz in my monitor settings, I'm guessing that isn't the correct way to do it? Lol.


If Nvidia, you must choose 'custom extension block' in CRU (v1.22).

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonyeezy*
> 
> I added the 96hz resolution in CRU and rebooted but still don't see 96hz in my monitor settings, I'm guessing that isn't the correct way to do it? Lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> If Nvidia, you must choose 'custom extension block' in CRU (v1.22).
> 
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU


Just to cover the bases... remember to patch the driver files...then follow the instructions on CRU. It's easy once you get the hang of it... and it'll work for all your games versus doing it within Nvidia's drivers alone.


----------



## Atreah

Hey everyone!

First of all, I'm sorry, as this has probably been answered in the thread before, but, it's 134 pages long and I haven't got the time to sift through the whole thing







.

Anyhow, I'm in the market for a new monitor, decided to go with a Korean 1440p. The 2795 looks like a great deal, but, I am a bit confused.

I am looking at the deals on Ebay UK, and, I'm just wondering; is there any difference between the screens on this page? Or are they all the same, with the exception of different sellers? And if there are different models of the 2795, what are their differences and which one is "the favourite" around here?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XCrossover+2795.TRS0&_nkw=Crossover+2795&_sacat=0

Also, all of these monitors are matte and most can OC to 96 Hz, right?

I would like to thank you all in advance for your help!


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atreah*
> 
> Hey everyone!
> 
> First of all, I'm sorry, as this has probably been answered in the thread before, but, it's 134 pages long and I haven't got the time to sift through the whole thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Anyhow, I'm in the market for a new monitor, decided to go with a Korean 1440p. The 2795 looks like a great deal, but, I am a bit confused.
> 
> I am looking at the deals on Ebay UK, and, I'm just wondering; is there any difference between the screens on this page? Or are they all the same, with the exception of different sellers? And if there are different models of the 2795, what are their differences and which one is "the favourite" around here?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XCrossover+2795.TRS0&_nkw=Crossover+2795&_sacat=0
> 
> Also, all of these monitors are matte and most can OC to 96 Hz, right?
> 
> I would like to thank you all in advance for your help!


Yes these are all the same. "Crossover 2795QHD AH-IPS". Some are pixel perfect and others ultimate versions. In reality, they probably don't actually check the dead pixels. I bought mine from Dream Seller too but currently trying to see what I can do about this issue: 



 I seem to be the only one who has it lol


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Yes these are all the same. "Crossover 2795QHD AH-IPS". Some are pixel perfect and others ultimate versions. In reality, they probably don't actually check the dead pixels. I bought mine from Dream Seller too but currently trying to see what I can do about this issue:
> 
> 
> 
> I seem to be the only one who has it lol


You overclocked your GPU, yes? Those seem like symptoms I get when I overclocked my GPU beyond what it's able to maintain - overclocking GPUs can also affect 2D (not just crash in 3D - i.e. games or benchmarks) - as it is right now, I'm editing my bios (using a r390 bios for my r290) to handle online video streams (unbelievable..).

Have you tried running it at stock and see if those that flickering persist?


----------



## zeppoli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grsmobile*
> 
> I went from a high speed 120hz 1680x1050 display playing fast paced fps games like HL1DM and HL2DM and now at 1440p 75hz even frame skips AND ITS SLOW AF and I hate it, really disappointed...sigh I should have waited till black friday and got a swift or something


swift wont be on sale black friday. Sucks about your luck though.


----------



## Xeby

I have a question on if this monitor will work with a EVGA 980Ti which has a DVI-I port. It's not DVI-D, and I know that converters from DVI-D to HDMI or DP won't work, so I want to know if this difference between DVI-D and DVI-I will cause any issues using this monitor with this GPU.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> You overclocked your GPU, yes? Those seem like symptoms I get when I overclocked my GPU beyond what it's able to maintain - overclocking GPUs can also affect 2D (not just crash in 3D - i.e. games or benchmarks) - as it is right now, I'm editing my bios (using a r390 bios for my r290) to handle online video streams (unbelievable..).
> 
> Have you tried running it at stock and see if those that flickering persist?


It's been running stock since I got it. I barely overclocked it before setting it back to stock around last year. I now have conclusive proof that it happens sometimes multiple times in a row.


----------



## Advil000

The multi input displays have shown themselves time and time again to NOT be what we are talking about in this thread. The 2795 QHD is a SINGLE DVI INPUT unit. There are very similar monitors, sold as 27QHD and similar. They are not the same monitor. Even though the 2795 QHD may appear to Windows as a 27QHD, it is not branded as one on the back. If you have one of the others, even if the panel happens to be the same, the control board definitely is not the same especially if it is multi-input. The way to be sure is to look at the sticker on the back of your monitor. It should say "2975 QHD" and have only a DVI input. If it says anything else, it's not the same thing.

So if you are having a bad experience with your monitor, please remember to differentiate whether you bought an actual 2795 QHD, or something SIMILAR.

It makes a big difference to people who are considering buying one, as it is becoming very, very difficult on this thread to determine which monitor someone is talking about.

2795 QHD = LG 1440p AH-IPS panel = matte finish screen coating = single DVI input display = 96hz minimum overclock / 110hz if you are lucky.

If you are looking at anything else, it's not the 2795 QHD.


----------



## Xeby

I have a question hopefully someone can answer. I'm considering this monitor and want to know if the inner bezel is matte or glossy. I know the majority of the bezel is glossy, which is ok, but I'm concerned with the part of the bezel that is kind of perpendicular to the screen, the part that raises the main bezel away. Is that glossy or matte? I have seen some glossy bezel panels where that is matte which is great because it doesn't reflect the image on the screen, but other bezels do not do this, like the Acer XB27HU which turned me off the monitor completely as I could see reflections on the bezel from the screen itself.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xeby*
> 
> I have a question hopefully someone can answer. I'm considering this monitor and want to know if the inner bezel is matte or glossy. I know the majority of the bezel is glossy, which is ok, but I'm concerned with the part of the bezel that is kind of perpendicular to the screen, the part that raises the main bezel away. Is that glossy or matte? I have seen some glossy bezel panels where that is matte which is great because it doesn't reflect the image on the screen, but other bezels do not do this, like the Acer XB27HU which turned me off the monitor completely as I could see reflections on the bezel from the screen itself.


They're glossy all the way around the panel... The front can be removed easily in about ten minutes with a flat screw driver though - You could easily prep, prime, and paint the bezel with matte black paint if you're confident with spray paint.


----------



## MenacingTuba

I've painted three glossy black Korean monitors bezels dark matte bronze and grey. Non-glossy and non-black bezels vastly increases the perceived black depth










__
https://flic.kr/p/rfCm31


__
https://flic.kr/p/rfCm31
 by Deepinthesky Teslastorm, on Flickr


----------



## tonyeezy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> Just to cover the bases... remember to patch the driver files...then follow the instructions on CRU. It's easy once you get the hang of it... and it'll work for all your games versus doing it within Nvidia's drivers alone.


Made sure I hit custom extension in CRU and didn't work, must of been due to not patching the driver files. I'll give that a shot. It's crazy how 60hz will now drive you insane after being at 96hz for so long even moving the mouse around looks sluggish lol.


----------



## Death2Consoles

So are the crossovers at this link the one I want?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=CROSSOVER+2795&N=-1&isNodeId=1


----------



## MikeNasty3

So I just got my 2795 in today! I think I set the ICC profiles found in this thread alright. I just have a few questions.

So this monitor's color is definitely warmer than my Dell U2312HM (IPS, 1080p) as in my whites are much more yellow that the Dell's. Is this normal?

Also, when I go into Nvidia Control Panel to overclock, I cannot get anything above 60Hz to work on Custom Resolution. It says test failed every time. What am I doing wrong? I am using the included DVI cable and have the latest Nvidia drivers.

Edit: I even rolled back driver versions for my Nvidia drivers. v358.87 and I still get "Test Failed" every time. I am running Windows 10 with the most recent update and my GPU is a GTX 780.

Edit 2: I also cannot get CRU to work. I am completely stuck


----------



## tonyeezy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeNasty3*
> 
> So I just got my 2795 in today! I think I set the ICC profiles found in this thread alright. I just have a few questions.
> 
> So this monitor's color is definitely warmer than my Dell U2312HM (IPS, 1080p) as in my whites are much more yellow that the Dell's. Is this normal?
> 
> Also, when I go into Nvidia Control Panel to overclock, I cannot get anything above 60Hz to work on Custom Resolution. It says test failed every time. What am I doing wrong? I am using the included DVI cable and have the latest Nvidia drivers.
> 
> Edit: I even rolled back driver versions for my Nvidia drivers. v358.87 and I still get "Test Failed" every time. I am running Windows 10 with the most recent update and my GPU is a GTX 780.
> 
> Edit 2: I also cannot get CRU to work. I am completely stuck


I'm currently playing around with the overclock, something in Nvidia's most recent driver update messed something up. It used to be as simple as adding a custom resolution with 96hz and you were set. Can't make any comparisons about the whites, compared to my ASUS VH242H the whites are WAY more white than that monitor lol.


----------



## MikeNasty3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonyeezy*
> 
> I'm currently playing around with the overclock, something in Nvidia's most recent driver update messed something up. It used to be as simple as adding a custom resolution with 96hz and you were set. Can't make any comparisons about the whites, compared to my ASUS VH242H the whites are WAY more white than that monitor lol.


Ya I downgraded to the last driver update (version 358.87) and every time I try and create a custom resolution it fails. Do I need to go back another driver version? Which version messed it up?

Ah, I guess my Dell just had really white whites!


----------



## tonyeezy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeNasty3*
> 
> Ya I downgraded to the last driver update (version 358.87) and every time I try and create a custom resolution it fails. Do I need to go back another driver version? Which version messed it up?
> 
> Ah, I guess my Dell just had really white whites!


Not entirely sure what is going on because I believe I had everything fine on 358.87, tried installing that last night again and it did not work. I may give it another shot rolling back to see if I can get it back to 96hz from the Nvidia control panel.


----------



## MikeNasty3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonyeezy*
> 
> Not entirely sure what is going on because I believe I had everything fine on 358.87, tried installing that last night again and it did not work. I may give it another shot rolling back to see if I can get it back to 96hz from the Nvidia control panel.


Did you have to do anything special like patch Nvidia drivers? I just booted up Nvidia Control Panel and went to custom resolutions and did it from there.

Did you do the big update to Windows 10 recently? I read that messed up someone's.

I just noticed that my monitor shows up as "Generic PnP Monitor" under Device Monitor. Is that normal?


----------



## rissie

One last time....

If you're using CRU you need to patch your driver files.... because people seem too lazy to use google(?). At the very least, please read the instructions on those pages. IMO don't bother with the overclocking utlity of Nvidia drivers... they really only work in 2D - a lot of games don't acknowledge those settings... so when you game it reverts to 60Hz (which is just silly).

*Nvidia patch* (certain cards only need a partial patch... read the notes):
http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher

*AMD patch*:
http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher

*CRU* (please note the differences in setup between AMD and Nvidia in terms of custom resolutions)
http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU

- tip here.... instead of rebooting multiple times... I'd suggest once your drivers are clean installed (use DDU) and patched is to run "reset-all"... then run "restart64" (or the other restart file if you're not on a 64 bit OS). Once done add in the custom resolutions and refresh rates of your choice. Once you've done that, run "restart64" again. You'll be able to test out those refresh rates in your games and windows.

Edit: It's also normal if you've added a number of custom resolutions (happens to me after 4?) to have the monitor detected as Generic PNP monitor (Mine is this as I've added some 16:10 1440p resolutions as well)


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> One last time....
> 
> If you're using CRU you need to patch your driver files.... because people seem too lazy to use google(?). At the very least, please read the instructions on those pages. IMO don't bother with the overclocking utlity of Nvidia drivers... they really only work in 2D - a lot of games don't acknowledge those settings... so when you game it reverts to 60Hz (which is just silly).


With Nvidia you dont need to patch the drivers unless you're raising the pixel clock to 165mhz or above (to achieve maximum attainable OC). Most people dont need to fine tune their pixel clocks/porch values and therefore dont need the patch. For the hardcore not satisfied with their OC and want to squeeze a little more out of it (5-10hz), they may need it.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> With Nvidia you dont need to patch the drivers unless you're raising the pixel clock to 165mhz or above (to achieve maximum attainable OC). Most people dont need to fine tune their pixel clocks/porch values and therefore dont need the patch. For the hardcore not satisfied with their OC and want to squeeze a little more out of it (5-10hz), they may need it.


Okay... unless CRU is giving me the wrong data... at 2560 x 1440 and at 60Hz... the pixel clock is already at 241.5MHz... at 96 it's at 386.72MHz... at 110 it's at 443MHz. I'm on AMD so I need to use LCD standard timings... but reduced won't be that much lower.

Edit: considering one of the most common tweaks for stable 120Hz overclock is to try to keep pixel clock below 450MHz... I'm pretty sure you HAVE to patch as the 165MHz limit is just not enough at 1440p. From my GTX 970 experience, the drivers used to allow overclocking... but if it's no longer working you definitely need to patch. Also, as mentioned, CRU settings means most of the games actually acknowledge the overclock. When doing it from Nvidia drivers, plenty of times the games were really running on 60Hz... you can switch on Vsync to confirm.


----------



## sgtdisturbed47

I got my Crossover 2795QHD today from Green-Sum. I was pretty nervous because of DHL, but who isn't these days.

I'm sure this has been done already, but I thought I'd share mine. Sorry for the derp quality, it's evening and dark.

Package arrived in bubble wrap, without a single dent in the box



They must use the same box for the version that supports HDMI and Display Port



Plenty of protective foam




No scratches or marks on the screen, so that's a plus



The stand makes it more wobbly than a newborn Giraffe, and seeing how poorly the stand is manufactured, I'm glad I bought an articulating wall mount. I promptly deleted the stand from the body of the monitor and attached the back plate. The mounting holes are extremely shallow, so I had to cut the 1/2" length mounting screws down to a little under 1/4".




Depending on your screen brightness, you may not see much of this next photo, but it's displaying a completely black image. No backlight bleed, only the normal IPS glow.



I'm thoroughly impressed with how this monitor is behaving. Colors are almost spot-on before calibration, blacks look awesome for an IPS display, and playing games like Far Cry 3 and 4 is a whole new experience. I was already gaming on a 55" LG IPS television, so whatever perceived blur might be there, I'm not seeing it. Input lag seems non-existent. I'm still working on getting it to run at 96hz in-game but I'll figure it out.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> Okay... unless CRU is giving me the wrong data... at 2560 x 1440 and at 60Hz... the pixel clock is already at 241.5MHz... at 96 it's at 386.72MHz... at 110 it's at 443MHz. I'm on AMD so I need to use LCD standard timings... but reduced won't be that much lower.
> 
> Edit: considering one of the most common tweaks for stable 120Hz overclock is to try to keep pixel clock below 450MHz... I'm pretty sure you HAVE to patch as the 165MHz limit is just not enough at 1440p. From my GTX 970 experience, the drivers used to allow overclocking... but if it's no longer working you definitely need to patch. Also, as mentioned, CRU settings means most of the games actually acknowledge the overclock. When doing it from Nvidia drivers, plenty of times the games were really running on 60Hz... you can switch on Vsync to confirm.


Apologies, you are correct. Been a while since I OC'd my monitors. Just tried 96hz on a Qnix without the patch and it would only work @ 16-bit colors. And yes, even 96hz is well above the 165mhz pixel clock limit.

Still according to ToastyX... "if you're using the NVIDIA control panel, you should be able to add 2560x1440 @ 96 Hz without the patch. If it's not letting you add any custom resolutions at all, then that's a driver issue that you should bug NVIDIA about..."


----------



## MikeNasty3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> One last time....
> 
> If you're using CRU you need to patch your driver files.... because people seem too lazy to use google(?). At the very least, please read the instructions on those pages. IMO don't bother with the overclocking utlity of Nvidia drivers... they really only work in 2D - a lot of games don't acknowledge those settings... so when you game it reverts to 60Hz (which is just silly).
> 
> *Nvidia patch* (certain cards only need a partial patch... read the notes):
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher
> 
> *AMD patch*:
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher
> 
> *CRU* (please note the differences in setup between AMD and Nvidia in terms of custom resolutions)
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU
> 
> - tip here.... instead of rebooting multiple times... I'd suggest once your drivers are clean installed (use DDU) and patched is to run "reset-all"... then run "restart64" (or the other restart file if you're not on a 64 bit OS). Once done add in the custom resolutions and refresh rates of your choice. Once you've done that, run "restart64" again. You'll be able to test out those refresh rates in your games and windows.
> 
> Edit: It's also normal if you've added a number of custom resolutions (happens to me after 4?) to have the monitor detected as Generic PNP monitor (Mine is this as I've added some 16:10 1440p resolutions as well)


I actually did patch the drivers and couldn't get it to work originally.

Ok, I somehow got to 96Hz using CRU. I cannot for the life of me get it to work through Nvidia Control Panel but am happy for now! I am still getting used the the warmer colors on this panel compared to my Dell, but I love this display so far. I just installed Star Wars Battlefront and am running above 60 fps on all maps except for Endor (get between 50-65 fps. This map may look the best of any game I have ever played graphically







)


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Apologies, you are correct. Been a while since I OC'd my monitors. Just tried 96hz on a Qnix without the patch and it would only work @ 16-bit colors. And yes, even 96hz is well above the 165mhz pixel clock limit.
> 
> Still according to ToastyX... "if you're using the NVIDIA control panel, you should be able to add 2560x1440 @ 96 Hz without the patch. If it's not letting you add any custom resolutions at all, then that's a driver issue that you should bug NVIDIA about..."


Nothing to apologize for - we're all here trying to piece various info together to form a coherent story.







I went through Nvidia's drivers for overclocking initially but it just wasn't consistent for all my games. Switched to CRU and no issues whatsoever - I just wish CRU would give more slots (I can think of other resolutions that I may want to try heh).

Cheers!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeNasty3*
> 
> I actually did patch the drivers and couldn't get it to work originally.
> 
> Ok, I somehow got to 96Hz using CRU. I cannot for the life of me get it to work through Nvidia Control Panel but am happy for now! I am still getting used the the warmer colors on this panel compared to my Dell, but I love this display so far. I just installed Star Wars Battlefront and am running above 60 fps on all maps except for Endor (get between 50-65 fps. This map may look the best of any game I have ever played graphically
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Grats... as long as you got it the way you wanted. That's all that matters?


----------



## MikeNasty3

So I am still finding it hard to get used to the warmer colors on this panel. Compared to my Dell U2312HM it seems so yellow.

Here is a pic of them both, Dell on the left obviously. I know in the pic the dell looks less white but in person the whites seem perfect while the Crossover's seem so yellow. When I game I don't even notice it but when I browse the web or even while I write this post I really notice it.



My buddy has an Acer K272HUL 1440p IPS display and his whites look closer to my Dell's.

Is there no setting I can bring my whites back? I have applied the ICC profile found in this thread already.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeNasty3*
> 
> So I am still finding it hard to get used to the warmer colors on this panel. Compared to my Dell U2312HM it seems so yellow.
> 
> Here is a pic of them both, Dell on the left obviously. I know in the pic the dell looks less white but in person the whites seem perfect while the Crossover's seem so yellow. When I game I don't even notice it but when I browse the web or even while I write this post I really notice it.
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy has an Acer K272HUL 1440p IPS display and his whites look closer to my Dell's.
> 
> Is there no setting I can bring my whites back? I have applied the ICC profile found in this thread already.


Perhaps it's your camera, or maybe we have a different idea of what white looks like.. but the Crossover looks white as could be on my monitor, and the dell looks damn near lilac.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Just ordered mine as a replacement to the defective QNIX QX2710 I recently received... Here's to hoping I get a nice panel!


----------



## MikeNasty3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Perhaps it's your camera, or maybe we have a different idea of what white looks like.. but the Crossover looks white as could be on my monitor, and the dell looks damn near lilac.


I know it looks that way but my phones camera doesn't do it justice. It was more of just a comparison of the difference between the two. I am sure I will get used to it over time!


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeNasty3*
> 
> I know it looks that way but my phones camera doesn't do it justice. It was more of just a comparison of the difference between the two. I am sure I will get used to it over time!


If you change the color temperature on the Dell, it will probably more closely match your Crossover.


----------



## sgtdisturbed47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeNasty3*
> 
> So I am still finding it hard to get used to the warmer colors on this panel. Compared to my Dell U2312HM it seems so yellow.
> 
> My buddy has an Acer K272HUL 1440p IPS display and his whites look closer to my Dell's.
> 
> Is there no setting I can bring my whites back? I have applied the ICC profile found in this thread already.


I noticed this exact thing. Before I applied the ICC, whites were way too warm and looked yellow, and this made other colors look funny. As soon as I applied the ICC, the white balance and color accuracy be came perfect. Whites are white now. I did have to try a few times before the ICC took hold, I'd try it again but this time deleting the ICC from the list, load system default, reboot, and load the custom ICC again.


----------



## MikeNasty3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgtdisturbed47*
> 
> I noticed this exact thing. Before I applied the ICC, whites were way too warm and looked yellow, and this made other colors look funny. As soon as I applied the ICC, the white balance and color accuracy be came perfect. Whites are white now. I did have to try a few times before the ICC took hold, I'd try it again but this time deleting the ICC from the list, load system default, reboot, and load the custom ICC again.


Did you use the *2.2 Gamma Profile* or *sRGB Profile* found on page 29 of this thread? Or am I doing it completely wrong and need to use both?

Edit: I think I had the gamma profile set but I just set the sRGB profile and I think the whites look much better now! Thanks for the tip!


----------



## sgtdisturbed47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeNasty3*
> 
> Did you use the *2.2 Gamma Profile* or *sRGB Profile* found on page 29 of this thread? Or am I doing it completely wrong and need to use both?
> 
> Edit: I think I had the gamma profile set but I just set the sRGB profile and I think the whites look much better now! Thanks for the tip!


I used a profile that was created while the monitor was at 96hz, so it compensates for the gamma change while overclocked. Glad you got it going!


----------



## MikeNasty3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgtdisturbed47*
> 
> I used a profile that was created while the monitor was at 96hz, so it compensates for the gamma change while overclocked. Glad you got it going!


Now I am curious. What profile did you use? I would like to try it out compared to the one I used.


----------



## Tim Drake

So I should get this instead of a QNIX or x star?

Also, is the pixel perfect neccesary as it allows up to 3 dead pixels before a refund / replacement.

How are the dead pixel experiences?


----------



## sgtdisturbed47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeNasty3*
> 
> Now I am curious. What profile did you use? I would like to try it out compared to the one I used.


This is the one I'm using:

27QHDD65002.2SXYZLUTMTX.zip 1812k .zip file


----------



## strykn

hey guys is there any way to reduce the "dirty" look of the matte screen on a white background?


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> So I should get this instead of a QNIX or x star?
> 
> Also, is the pixel perfect neccesary as it allows up to 3 dead pixels before a refund / replacement.
> 
> How are the dead pixel experiences?


From what I've seen, not worth it. You don't know how they check the pixels and they could really just be lying. I'm also confused as to why they have hundreds of the same monitor on sale with no comprehensive "this has only that and the other one has something else".


----------



## MikeNasty3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgtdisturbed47*
> 
> This is the one I'm using:
> 
> 27QHDD65002.2SXYZLUTMTX.zip 1812k .zip file


Thanks! That one actually makes my whites a tad bit yellower than the current one I am using, but thanks for sharing anyways!









Edit: I have been switching back and forth all day and now I think I like your better haha!


----------



## bezzell

New nvidia driver today. Custom resolutions via NV control panel are still broken. Hammer this thread if you're having issues as well.

https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/897682/geforce-drivers/official-359-00-game-ready-whql-display-driver-feedback-thread-11-19-15-/


----------



## MikeNasty3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bezzell*
> 
> New nvidia driver today. Custom resolutions via NV control panel are still broken. Hammer this thread if you're having issues as well.
> 
> https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/897682/geforce-drivers/official-359-00-game-ready-whql-display-driver-feedback-thread-11-19-15-/


I also replied in the thread! Thanks for the heads up!


----------



## BadRobot

Could this be the cause of my monitor turning off for a second at random? It just goes on standby for no reason. For now, I still have to test a different cable since the monitor goes in standby when it happens. Here's a video of it happening: 



 took me a couple of hours and it happened 4x after I stopped recording... ignore the messy desk and my sneeze ^^


----------



## grsmobile

It seems and feels like I am frame skipping even on 60hz (i have gotten up to 120hz but frame skip on any refresh rate). Vsync doesn't seem to do much either. I bought this monitor here that no one really has yet or even tested it out
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Crossover-27Ganjidog-AHIPS-DP-5ms-WQHD-2560x1440-60Hz-27-Perfect-Pixel-White-/321880248621

I should have been a bit more patient and researched more ( I got the multi input one not single). Oh well... At least the colours and vibrance is amazing unless I am doing something wrong.....


----------



## Blinkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grsmobile*
> 
> frame skipping even on 60hz


you just got used to your old high hz monitor
so 60hz feels weird to you

how much did you pay for the monitor ? with tax and all
I also from Canuckland


----------



## rolfathan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Could this be the cause of my monitor turning off for a second at random? It just goes on standby for no reason. For now, I still have to test a different cable since the monitor goes in standby when it happens. Here's a video of it happening:
> 
> 
> 
> took me a couple of hours and it happened 4x after I stopped recording... ignore the messy desk and my sneeze ^^


Are those burn marks and bulging? That seems crazy defective if so.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Looks like it's bulging to me..

Not worth sending in for warranty unless he's within 30 days of purchase. Sending back to Korea is expensive, communication isn't great, etc.

He can either identify the part and solder it in pretty easily, or buy another of the same model and have spare parts..


----------



## soulcrates

This is how mine looked when I took it apart. So far I don't have any issues,but I usually don't have it on more then 4 hours a day.


----------



## Vimm

I had some issues with my display-image disappearing when I touched my desk causing the VESA arm to wobble. It was getting quite cumbersome during critical moments in some games, so I decided to open the monitor up to see where the fault was. Removing the bezel was a breeze, it was very easy to pick the monitor apart. No loose cable going into the display so I dug deeper down to the PCBs. And the culprit was a ground-fault in one of the PCBs. It was missing a screw in the top corner! So when I moved my VESA arm the PCB must have shorted everytime touching the surface. So I fastened a screw and the problem was no more. I was happy to remove that ugly stand sticking out of it as well.

This was the panel inside the case for those wondering:


----------



## grsmobile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinkey*
> 
> you just got used to your old high hz monitor
> so 60hz feels weird to you
> 
> how much did you pay for the monitor ? with tax and all
> I also from Canuckland


Hahah yup, it's just me. I got it for $520 after HST, lame US to CAN conversion rate.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulcrates*
> 
> 
> 
> This is how mine looked when I took it apart. So far I don't have any issues,but I usually don't have it on more then 4 hours a day.


Seems normal then. I messaged Dream Seller and linked the video. He asked me to test on a different gfx card and plugging in directly to the wall instead of a extension cord with multiple things where my pc is also connected to. Right now I changed DVI cable to test if that influences it. ****ty thing is it happens rarely so I can't test it quickly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grsmobile*
> 
> Hahah yup, it's just me. I got it for $520 after HST, lame US to CAN conversion rate.


Man... I was bummed about my 30% import tax because they didn't round it off to the nearest 5 or 10. I had to go out with 5c and specifically ask for 1 & 2 cents to trade so I could pay that 2c more. Luckily the post office had some... then I see your post and wow... D:


----------



## Death2Consoles

Yeah these are super easy to take apart, it's too bad the PCB isn't easily found for sale.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Is there a Windows driver for these? I had one for my QNIX which was unsigned, but it worked..


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Is there a Windows driver for these? I had one for my QNIX which was unsigned, but it worked..


What do you mean by driver? I just plugged in mine and it worked no problem









edit: and yeah, would be nice if I could get a replacement PCB in case mine dies. so far the new DVI cable has worked wonderfully.


----------



## strykn

I believe the ICC profiles only work properly if windows detects the monitor as the 27QHD... My catalyst control center detects it like that but Windows is just generic PNP monitor... any idea on how to fix it so ICC profiles work ?

edit: figured it out using a program called DisplayProfile.. can easily see the difference in the profiles now


----------



## wickedout

Got my Crossover up to 85Hz just using EVGA Precision X 16 software. I tried Toasty but it didn't work for my monitor for some reason. The EVGA software is working great for GPU. It's working great at 85Hz with all my games at max settings. Here's a picture of my refresh rate.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strykn*
> 
> I believe the ICC profiles only work properly if windows detects the monitor as the 27QHD... My catalyst control center detects it like that but Windows is just generic PNP monitor... any idea on how to fix it so ICC profiles work ?
> 
> edit: figured it out using a program called DisplayProfile.. can easily see the difference in the profiles now


I use Color Sustainer









Nvidia Control Panel recognizes it.. Windows says Generic PnP


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> Got my Crossover up to 85Hz just using EVGA Precision X 16 software. I tried Toasty but it didn't work for my monitor for some reason. The EVGA software is working great for GPU. It's working great at 85Hz with all my games at max settings. Here's a picture of my refresh rate.


You're also in 16-bit mode (the fading to white isn't smooth as it is in 32-bit) . Read blued's test results: http://www.overclock.net/t/1555354/official-crossover-2795-qhd-pwm-flicker-free-overclock-able-matte-1440p-ah-ips/1350#post_24615280

Try patching your driver file.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Could this be the cause of my monitor turning off for a second at random? It just goes on standby for no reason. For now, I still have to test a different cable since the monitor goes in standby when it happens. Here's a video of it happening:
> 
> 
> 
> took me a couple of hours and it happened 4x after I stopped recording... ignore the messy desk and my sneeze ^^


I don't think it's bulging... but if you think that input filter capacitor is a problem it's really easy to replace... gently rock it side to side and it'll pop right off leaving the pads undamaged. Then just put a replacement capacitor (with the right ratings) on and touch the two legs with a bit of solder on a soldering iron.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> You're also in 16-bit mode (the fading to white isn't smooth as it is in 32-bit) . Read blued's test results: http://www.overclock.net/t/1555354/official-crossover-2795-qhd-pwm-flicker-free-overclock-able-matte-1440p-ah-ips/1350#post_24615280
> 
> Try patching your driver file.


Patched to 64-bit! It said it found the 64-bit driver but my NVIDIA control panal stills says 32.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> Patched to 64-bit! It said it found the 64-bit driver but my NVIDIA control panal stills says 32.


Erm... a few different things that you're maybe confusing since they all use bits as units?

32-bit and 64-bit drivers... this doesn't really matter much as long as you use the latest version of the Nvidia pixel patcher and a driver version that's supported (typically it doesn't matter but it seems Nvidia likes to change things in their drivers that break things)

16-bit and 32-bit colors... that screenshot you took shows you're in a 16-bit color scheme not 32-bit... in 32-bit the fading to white in that particular screenshot will not have a slight pink tint. It puzzled me when I had my 970 why that was happening and realized that Nvidia's overclocking utility tend to do silly things like that. Add to it how some games didn't take those refresh rates and CRU was the straightforward way forward for me.


----------



## wickedout

Yeah I know Nvida like to change things up after updates. So the CRU helped you get back to 64-bit?


----------



## Death2Consoles

CRU (for maintaining refresh rates) and Color Sustainer (for maintaining ICC profiles) are definitely the best bet IMO


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> Yeah I know Nvida like to change things up after updates. So the CRU helped you get back to 64-bit?


I'm not sure I'm understanding your question properly... so apologies if I misunderstood you.

If you run a 64-bit OS, you'd run 64-bit drivers (I guess you could run 32-bit, but that'll be odd?). In either case, the nvidia pixel patcher will find the appropriate file and let you decide if you want to patch the values or not. If you're using 900 series, I believe you only need the partial patch file.

Once it's patched you can use CRU as per the instructions or my post previously (and it'll work without any other software loading up)... you can of course continue to use whatever software you are happy with... just test it in games with vsync on if you can't tell the difference in refresh rates.

if you're asking about 64-bit color depth, I'm not sure there is anything in the consumer space (or even professional that eclipses 48-bit?) that gets there.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> I'm not sure I'm understanding your question properly... so apologies if I misunderstood you.
> 
> If you run a 64-bit OS, you'd run 64-bit drivers (I guess you could run 32-bit, but that'll be odd?). In either case, the nvidia pixel patcher will find the appropriate file and let you decide if you want to patch the values or not. If you're using 900 series, I believe you only need the partial patch file.
> 
> Once it's patched you can use CRU as per the instructions or my post previously (and it'll work without any other software loading up)... you can of course continue to use whatever software you are happy with... just test it in games with vsync on if you can't tell the difference in refresh rates.
> 
> if you're asking about 64-bit color depth, I'm not sure there is anything in the consumer space (or even professional that eclipses 48-bit?) that gets there.


I'll have to test it in vsync games see what happens and how it reacts. What tests did you use to check your refresh rate? I use 3DMark for overclocking my GPU.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> I'll have to test it in vsync games see what happens and how it reacts. What tests did you use to check your refresh rate? I use 3DMark for overclocking my GPU.


Assuming you have enough grunt to run the games, the simplest test is just enabling vsync in games and a frame rate counter will tell you if your games are acknowledging the overclocked refresh rates. i.e. if the games are all running only at 60fps with vsync on, you're stuck in 60Hz even though you overclocked. This is very common in steam games for me as an example. If the games are running at a constant 85fps, then the game is acknowledging the 85Hz refresh rate of your overclock.

Visually it's quite apparent to me when it is in 60Hz, but the above confirms it.


----------



## cyris69

Ok, after going back and forth figuring out which QNIX was the right model to now hearing the crossover is much better option now due to no PWM etc etc. Ok so I've seen a few different links and models in this thread. Some say the "variant" 27QHD is the same model as the 2795 QHD or both show up as same model in windows etc.

Can anyone give me a link to the exact model that I can click buy on? I'm sorry for sounding demanding or pissy, just I never thought it would be this frustrating finding a budget 1440p monitor for gaming, there are 10 identical looking in every way monitors from the stand to the casing and I want to make the right decision.

I saw this mentioned here in this thread
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141115538942

Almost bought it then hear it's not right by other people etc.

Then I see this one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-AH-IPS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-Matte-/400974478465

They all look the same, with the same specs, inputs, etc just the price on the later model is more than I can afford upfront.

I'm located in midwest of USA, would like a seller in the states but at this point as long as it gets here fairly quickly as I assume once you get it it's yours no matter what happens. It's a personal xmas present as my secondary monitor died not long ago and this will be one of the few chances in the next couple years to afford a monitor.

Will my system be enough to handle heavy FPS gaming?
Intel i7 3930k OC @4.2ghz, 32gb ddr3 ram, GTX 980ti OC @ Core/Memory 220/500


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyris69*
> 
> Ok, after going back and forth figuring out which QNIX was the right model to now hearing the crossover is much better option now due to no PWM etc etc. Ok so I've seen a few different links and models in this thread. Some say the "variant" 27QHD is the same model as the 2795 QHD or both show up as same model in windows etc.
> 
> Can anyone give me a link to the exact model that I can click buy on? I'm sorry for sounding demanding or pissy, just I never thought it would be this frustrating finding a budget 1440p monitor for gaming, there are 10 identical looking in every way monitors from the stand to the casing and I want to make the right decision.
> 
> I saw this mentioned here in this thread
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/141115538942
> 
> Almost bought it then hear it's not right by other people etc.
> 
> Then I see this one
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-AH-IPS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-Matte-/400974478465
> 
> They all look the same, with the same specs, inputs, etc just the price on the later model is more than I can afford upfront.
> 
> I'm located in midwest of USA, would like a seller in the states but at this point as long as it gets here fairly quickly as I assume once you get it it's yours no matter what happens. It's a personal xmas present as my secondary monitor died not long ago and this will be one of the few chances in the next couple years to afford a monitor.
> 
> Will my system be enough to handle heavy FPS gaming?
> Intel i7 3930k OC @4.2ghz, 32gb ddr3 ram, GTX 980ti OC @ Core/Memory 220/500


Good choice..

I just got mine from DaySale on Newegg.. Same guys I got my QNIX from. They're a good seller and Newegg handles the returns and refunds so I preferred that over Ebay. My QNIX shipped from California and took a week. My Crossover shipped from Korea and took three days.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=crossover+2795&N=-1&isNodeId=1

I'd get the perfect pixel for only $10. Some call it a gimmick. I've gotten two monitors with no dead pixels that I can find. I'm calling it worth the $10.


----------



## Death2Consoles

I just noticed the link you had for the seller green sum.. I hear he's a good seller, and that's an awesome price!!

I'd scoop that up, it's the correct model. Tempted to get another.


----------



## cyris69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> I just noticed the link you had for the seller green sum.. I hear he's a good seller, and that's an awesome price!!
> 
> I'd scoop that up, it's the correct model. Tempted to get another.


See that's where I'm confused, someone is telling me "27QHD" is not the "2795QHD" monitor that is overclockable. So that's where I'm stuck at









Like he also sells this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-IPS-Monitor-Matte/141740633783


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyris69*
> 
> See that's where I'm confused, someone is telling me "27QHD" is not the "2795QHD" monitor that is overclockable. So that's where I'm stuck at


I see.. that's a good point that I'm also unsure of. Try contacting the seller while you wait for a response on here, I'm sure they can tell you.


----------



## Death2Consoles

From what I can see, the 2795QHD is the one you want, the 27QHD isn't advertised as overclockable anywhere that I can find, and it's also cheaper everywhere which would indicate that it's not as desirable.

My 2795 QHD overclocks to 105Hz but I use 96Hz as it's a multiple of 24 so it looks a bit smoother for movies.


----------



## cyris69

I mean that makes sense but I guess that's why there is so much miscommunication as so many details are very vague or use nearly identical model info to the housing of the panel. Then I assume the shipping will be just as fast to go through green-sum via ebay as its a bit cheaper than newegg daysales.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyris69*
> 
> I mean that makes sense but I guess that's why there is so much miscommunication as so many details are very vague or use nearly identical model info to the housing of the panel. Then I assume the shipping will be just as fast to go through green-sum via ebay as its a bit cheaper than newegg daysales.


It is confusing but they're all about keeping costs down.. hence why they all use the same cheap stand and whatnot. It works to our advantage though because we get awesome monitors for an awesome price









I think the shipping will be the same, mine shipped with DHL from Seoul South Korea which I'm assuming is near the manufacturer. Most people report very fast shipping from Korea with these panels.


----------



## cyris69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> It is confusing but they're all about keeping costs down.. hence why they all use the same cheap stand and whatnot. It works to our advantage though because we get awesome monitors for an awesome price
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the shipping will be the same, mine shipped with DHL from Seoul South Korea which I'm assuming is near the manufacturer. Most people report very fast shipping from Korea with these panels.


Awesome and thank you for taking the time to help me out







I just hope it's a fairly clean experience gaming as I've been dying to put my 980ti to better use. Have you noticed any substantial negatives to playing demanding FPS titles on this monitor as I'm excited to see fallout 4 on it


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyris69*
> 
> Awesome and thank you for taking the time to help me out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just hope it's a fairly clean experience gaming as I've been dying to put my 980ti to better use. Have you noticed any substantial negatives to playing demanding FPS titles on this monitor as I'm excited to see fallout 4 on it


No problem, glad I could help!

It's quite a few more pixels than 1080p... 1920 x 1080p = 2073600 pixels 2560 x 1440p = 3686400 pixels That's more than a 60% increase.

On my 980TIi I can play BF4 on ultra with AA all the way up at about 105 FPS on average. I can play GTA V on ultra with distance scaling etc turned all the way up and maintain 60 FPS without trouble so long as I keep grass on high, ultra is a bit much. I certainly noticed the FPS hit but I didn't care because things looked so much better at 1440p and my old TN panel had horrid colors compared to this AHIPS panel. I also have much less eye strain now, and 96Hz is SOOO much smoother than 60Hz which is definitely one of the biggest Pro's. The extra screen real estate on the desktop and on web pages is also something I can't imagine giving up now.

Don't stress too much about FPS impact, you'll notice it but you'll appreciate the panel enough that it shouldn't matter.. You have a beast GPU and it will perform just fine, I've been very happy and I'm picky about maintaining 60 FPS.

Fallout 4 performs poorly, unfortunately.. I don't have it but the benchmarks didn't look great. You'll probably have to turn some things down at 1440p depending on what FPS you find playable but the extra resolution usually makes up for turning settings down a bit. You usually don't need as much anti aliasing, for instance, at 1440p as you did with 1080p because the extra resolution helps hide the "jaggies" that you'll see.


----------



## cyris69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> No problem, glad I could help!
> 
> It's quite a few more pixels than 1080p... 1920 x 1080p = 2073600 pixels 2560 x 1440p = 3686400 pixels That's more than a 60% increase.
> 
> On my 980TIi I can play BF4 on ultra with AA all the way up at about 105 FPS on average. I can play GTA V on ultra with distance scaling etc turned all the way up and maintain 60 FPS without trouble so long as I keep grass on high, ultra is a bit much. I certainly noticed the FPS hit but I didn't care because things looked so much better at 1440p and my old TN panel had horrid colors compared to this AHIPS panel. I also have much less eye strain now, and 96Hz is SOOO much smoother than 60Hz which is definitely one of the biggest Pro's. The extra screen real estate on the desktop and on web pages is also something I can't imagine giving up now.
> 
> Don't stress too much about FPS impact, you'll notice it but you'll appreciate the panel enough that it shouldn't matter.. You have a beast GPU and it will perform just fine, I've been very happy and I'm picky about maintaining 60 FPS.
> 
> Fallout 4 performs poorly, unfortunately.. I don't have it but the benchmarks didn't look great. You'll probably have to turn some things down at 1440p depending on what FPS you find playable but the extra resolution usually makes up for turning settings down a bit. You usually don't need as much anti aliasing, for instance, at 1440p as you did with 1080p because the extra resolution helps hide the "jaggies" that you'll see.


Excellent! Yeah I mainly play Fallout (maxed I maintain around 80-105fps with my fps cap i set), some indie games like Rust and Unturned or if something else eye candy wise comes about (Doom!!!) I am anal about maintaining 60FPS minimum and not used to having to scale down graphics settings to do it. However, if it is how you say then I'm quite excited! Wish I could push my 980ti further but not very much on OC'ing GPU's.

I put in the order a few hours ago so hope I get it this week! Also if for some reason the DVI-D cable is iffy what's a good alternative to either push further or maintain a 96hz but cleaner signal wise?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyris69*
> 
> Excellent! Yeah I mainly play Fallout (maxed I maintain around 80-105fps with my fps cap i set), some indie games like Rust and Unturned or if something else eye candy wise comes about (Doom!!!) I am anal about maintaining 60FPS minimum and not used to having to scale down graphics settings to do it. However, if it is how you say then I'm quite excited! Wish I could push my 980ti further but not very much on OC'ing GPU's.
> 
> I put in the order a few hours ago so hope I get it this week! Also if for some reason the DVI-D cable is iffy what's a good alternative to either push further or maintain a 96hz but cleaner signal wise?


Both the cables I got with my QNIX and my Crossover were different, but they were a heavy gauge and both monitors reached their max overclock regardless of the cable I used. I also have a $45 (ouch) Stables dual link DVI cable which doesn't help me to OC any more than the cables which came with my monitors. I'm returning the Staples cable and just using the ones provided. I can't recommend a specific one but if you search this thread and the QNIX thread, there's talk of a well priced Monoprice cable (I think this is the one.) which some people have had good results with.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Apologies, you are correct. Been a while since I OC'd my monitors. Just tried 96hz on a Qnix without the patch and it would only work @ 16-bit colors. And yes, even 96hz is well above the 165mhz pixel clock limit.
> 
> Still according to ToastyX... "if you're using the NVIDIA control panel, you should be able to add 2560x1440 @ 96 Hz without the patch. If it's not letting you add any custom resolutions at all, then that's a driver issue that you should bug NVIDIA about..."


That's how I overclock mine. I just use the NVIDIA control panel and EVGA Precision X 16 software. So glad to know to know this. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## StrongForce

Ugh, I couldn't even download the utility, flagged page my my panda antivirus.. crap. I can't even find how to remove that flagging, it's dumb, there is not even an addon on firefox







.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> how high did you overclock? that it started happening. your monitor black screen at all times now?


Yo EyeChoose, fixed it with a new DVI cable. Hasn't happened in 2 days so far. Going to overclock again soon.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyris69*
> 
> See that's where I'm confused, someone is telling me "27QHD" is not the "2795QHD" monitor that is overclockable. So that's where I'm stuck at
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like he also sells this:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-IPS-Monitor-Matte/141740633783


The 27QHD is the 2795's older brother. The 2795 is the newer model and is what this forum topic is all about. That said, if there is no option to get the 2795, the 27QHD is also a good monitor. No idea bout how much it can overclock though.


----------



## EyeChoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Yo EyeChoose, fixed it with a new DVI cable. Hasn't happened in 2 days so far. Going to overclock again soon.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> The 27QHD is the 2795's older brother. The 2795 is the newer model and is what this forum topic is all about. That said, if there is no option to get the 2795, the 27QHD is also a good monitor. No idea bout how much it can overclock though.


yup 2795 is the better one. great that you fix it badrobot


----------



## Haxxbaxx

Maybe I'm miss reading but all the ones I see on eBay uk say duel link not single link.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor/331605526911?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3D86e53b8f2f6f4226aee4a374b29d21f8%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D221857640393

DVI-D(Dual Link): YES / DVI-D(Single Link):


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haxxbaxx*
> 
> Maybe I'm miss reading but all the ones I see on eBay uk say duel link not single link.
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor/331605526911?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3D86e53b8f2f6f4226aee4a374b29d21f8%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D221857640393
> 
> DVI-D(Dual Link): YES / DVI-D(Single Link):


Yes, it has to be Dual Link. That's the right one. The monitor only has DVI-D Dual Link and power port so your gfx card has to support DVI-D. I used to have a cable


----------



## Quesoblanco

Hello everyone,

What is the highest refresh rate this monitor can handle before frameskipping? Thanks.


----------



## EyeChoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Yes, it has to be Dual Link. That's the right one. The monitor only has DVI-D Dual Link and power port so your gfx card has to support DVI-D. I used to have a cable


are u using 2 dvi-d link? or another cable? (converter or somesort?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quesoblanco*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> What is the highest refresh rate this monitor can handle before frameskipping? Thanks.


Pretty much everyone is fine at 96Hz which is great since it's a multiple of 24 and movies are shot at 24 FPS so there's nothing weird going on when you watch a movie in terms of frame doubling etc. I can go to 104Hz without any negative effects such as frame skipping but I just keep it at 96 for the reasons stated previously. Many have been able to reach 110-120Hz though, and some have even hit 130Hz. I'd plan on hitting 96Hz and anything else is just a nice bonus.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> are u using 2 dvi-d link? or another cable? (converter or somesort?




Converters won't work with this monitor. Just use a dual link DVI-D cable (second from the top shown above) and a modern GPU with DVI out and you'll be all set


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> are u using 2 dvi-d link? or another cable? (converter or somesort?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Pretty much everyone is fine at 96Hz which is great since it's a multiple of 24 and movies are shot at 24 FPS so there's nothing weird going on when you watch a movie in terms of frame doubling etc. I can go to 104Hz without any negative effects such as frame skipping but I just keep it at 96 for the reasons stated previously. Many have been able to reach 110-120Hz though, and some have even hit 130Hz. I'd plan on hitting 96Hz and anything else is just a nice bonus.
> 
> 
> Converters won't work with this monitor. Just use a dual link DVI-D cable (second from the top shown above) and a modern GPU with DVI out and you'll be all set


Yeah, DVI-D Dual Link. It's just one cable.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Here's one that will work with these Korean panels.. I just got one for $8 after promo code NEWEGGCABLE20

"Each coax line is individually wrapped in foam-polyolefin insulation and over wrapped with a braided tinned copper shield

28AWG copper conductors are individually insulated in hard-density polypropylene to minimize cross talk, ensuring high-speed, error-free transmission

Shielded undermold protects against unwanted EMI/RFI interference

Fully Compliant with DVI Standard DDWG (Digital Display Work Group)

Ferrite core prevents EMI/RFI Interference for more reliable transmission"

...sounds decent to me


----------



## PfrikinF

New to the Forum, and I must say, impressive! Tons of info!

Anyways, just got mine today, plugged her in, got the Blue Light, Windows registered it, but there is no picture... I dont even get the "no signal". Just a blank screen like its not even on. Any Ideas? Did I get a DOA?

I did pull it apart and nothing looked damaged/burned. Also, I have tried original cable, monoprice 24AWG cable, both ports on my gtx 970 and also the port on the on-board graphics. If i plug in my Dell using the same cables/ports, the Dell works fine.

Thanks!!!


----------



## Death2Consoles

Yeah probably DOA... Just exchange it.


----------



## PfrikinF

Thought so... Contacted green-sum and it seems they are trying to work around it. Hopefully, they work with me as i just got this today...

Is the monitor power button supposed to be Blue when working? It's red with nothing hooked up and Blue when i hook the dvi-d cable up.

This is the response i got from them so far.

Hello,

Thank you for contacting us.

Can you verify the following for us so that it can give us an idea of what the issue might be? We will need to submit this information to the manufacturer before proceeding with a return. A blue LED means that it's compatibility issue.

1. Is the light on the power adapter green and solid?

2. What kind of cable is used to connect the monitor to the computer? Are any converters/adapters used?

3. Is the monitor connected to a PC desktop, laptop or to an Apple product?

4. What is the model of your graphics card or are you using an onboard graphics card?

5. Are you using the monitor by itself or as a dual monitor? If using as a dual monitor, please try using the monitor by itself.

We'll help you resolve this issue in the most efficient way possible.

Thank you for your help.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PfrikinF*
> 
> Thought so... Contacted green-sum and it seems they are trying to work around it. Hopefully, they work with me as i just got this today...
> 
> Is the monitor power button supposed to be Blue when working? It's red with nothing hooked up and Blue when i hook the dvi-d cable up.
> 
> This is the response i got from them so far.
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Thank you for contacting us.
> 
> Can you verify the following for us so that it can give us an idea of what the issue might be? We will need to submit this information to the manufacturer before proceeding with a return. A blue LED means that it's compatibility issue.
> 
> 1. Is the light on the power adapter green and solid?
> 
> 2. What kind of cable is used to connect the monitor to the computer? Are any converters/adapters used?
> 
> 3. Is the monitor connected to a PC desktop, laptop or to an Apple product?
> 
> 4. What is the model of your graphics card or are you using an onboard graphics card?
> 
> 5. Are you using the monitor by itself or as a dual monitor? If using as a dual monitor, please try using the monitor by itself.
> 
> We'll help you resolve this issue in the most efficient way possible.
> 
> Thank you for your help.


He's a good seller, he's just trying to ensure that you're not some n00b who is using the monitor with an incompatible GPU, cable, etc... Just answer his questions and I'm sure they'll move forward with the return.

The light is red when the monitor is in standby and blue when it's in use. It seems like you got a bad panel but the circuitry is still working, at or at least getting power.

You didn't tell them you opened up the monitor, right?


----------



## PfrikinF

I was respectful in my answer. this is my 1st experience with a Korean monitor and don't want it to be a horror story. I've definitely read good reviews about the seller. Just keeping my fingers crossed.

And no, i did not tell them I opened it. That's bad juju for sure!


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PfrikinF*
> 
> I was respectful in my answer. this is my 1st experience with a Korean monitor and don't want it to be a horror story. I've definitely read good reviews about the seller. Just keeping my fingers crossed.
> 
> And no, i did not tell them I opened it. That's bad juju for sure!


Haha good! I had a QNIX 2710 that I just shipped back to Newegg today which was wigging out and showing solid colors randomly etc.. Got mine through "DaySale" on the Newegg Marketplace. I'm getting a refund for that one and I got a Crossover to 2795 to replace it, it cost me an extra $120 since the QNIX had been on sale for $180 when I impulse bought it but then I found out about the benefits of the Crossover and just went for it when the QNIX died.


----------



## PfrikinF

I take it your Crossover works fine with your GTX980ti? (totally jealy btw) Did you have to do any gpu driver updates/reverts I have a GTX970 myself.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PfrikinF*
> 
> I take it your Crossover works fine with your GTX980ti? (totally jealy btw) Did you have to do any gpu driver updates/reverts I have a GTX970 myself.


No issues with the 980ti.. the 970 will be just fine as well









I'm jealous of how much you saved by sticking with the 970!

I'm using 358.50 and I'm running at 100Hz right now, overclocked with the Nvidia control panel. I use color sustainer to force my color profile to stick, some games ignore them and color sustainer keeps it from being ignored. If you have games that reset the monitor to 60Hz, use Custom Resolution Utility to force the refresh rate.


----------



## PfrikinF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> No issues with the 980ti.. the 970 will be just fine as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm jealous of how much you saved by sticking with the 970!
> 
> I'm using 358.50 and I'm running at 100Hz right now, overclocked with the Nvidia control panel. I use color sustainer to force my color profile to stick, some games ignore them and color sustainer keeps it from being ignored. If you have games that reset the monitor to 60Hz, use Custom Resolution Utility to force the refresh rate.


In case it makes a difference, I'm running v359.00 and there is another driver ready to DL.

The 970 does pretty good i must say. But the 980ti is a BEAST!


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PfrikinF*
> 
> New to the Forum, and I must say, impressive! Tons of info!
> 
> Anyways, just got mine today, plugged her in, got the Blue Light, Windows registered it, but there is no picture... I dont even get the "no signal". Just a blank screen like its not even on. Any Ideas? Did I get a DOA?
> 
> I did pull it apart and nothing looked damaged/burned. Also, I have tried original cable, monoprice 24AWG cable, both ports on my gtx 970 and also the port on the on-board graphics. If i plug in my Dell using the same cables/ports, the Dell works fine.
> 
> Thanks!!!


Just to cover the bases, did you use the bundled DVI-D cable? That's what happens if you use a single-link dvi cable (I tried it when I first got it).


----------



## PfrikinF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> Just to cover the bases, did you use the bundled DVI-D cable? That's what happens if you use a single-link dvi cable (I tried it when I first got it).


Yes. Tried bundled cable and a Monoprice 24AWG dual link DVI-D in both ports of the gtx970 and the on board intel hd4600. When i use both cables on my existing Dell monitor, it works. So, i know its not the cables.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PfrikinF*
> 
> Yes. Tried bundled cable and a Monoprice 24AWG dual link DVI-D in both ports of the gtx970 and the on board intel hd4600. When i use both cables on my existing Dell monitor, it works. So, i know its not the cables.


Okay. Hope you get it replaced quickly...Greensum is pretty responsive... they even tried to call me but due to time differences I missed their call. Re the cables... the single-link DVI ones work on my Dell monitor, too; doesn't mean it'll work on the Crossover - hence "just to cover the bases" comment.


----------



## PfrikinF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> Okay. Hope you get it replaced quickly...Greensum is pretty responsive... they even tried to call me but due to time differences I missed their call. Re the cables... the single-link DVI ones work on my Dell monitor, too; doesn't mean it'll work on the Crossover - hence "just to cover the bases" comment.


Always good to double check.


----------



## cyris69

Got in my 2795







No dead pixels and no backlight bleed that I can tell anywhere! Took forever to get even though green-sum shipped from KW in teh states.

It is quite the eye strain to get used to that is for sure, not sure if my eyes should hurt looking at it lol. However don't notice that upgrade feel when gaming maybe set expectations too high.

However, still confused on how to overclock. NVCP found my CRU refresh rate but 90% times won't apply 96hz then sometimes it does but I can't create a profile from NVCP as it says resolutions isn't supported by 32bit yada yada or it already exists since I made it un CRU.

In fallout 4 I was getting 71-200FPS depending on location, Rust I was maxing at 96FPS, however the UFO tester says I'm at 59.xxxxx FPS. I ran the nvlddmkm-patcher-1.3.4 as well. I guess this all just is a bit overwhelming for me. Anyhelp would be appreciated.


----------



## PfrikinF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyris69*
> 
> Got in my 2795
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No dead pixels and no backlight bleed that I can tell anywhere! Took forever to get even though green-sum shipped from KW in teh states.
> 
> It is quite the eye strain to get used to that is for sure, not sure if my eyes should hurt looking at it lol. However don't notice that upgrade feel when gaming maybe set expectations too high.
> 
> However, still confused on how to overclock. NVCP found my CRU refresh rate but 90% times won't apply 96hz then sometimes it does but I can't create a profile from NVCP as it says resolutions isn't supported by 32bit yada yada or it already exists since I made it un CRU.
> 
> In fallout 4 I was getting 71-200FPS depending on location, Rust I was maxing at 96FPS, however the UFO tester says I'm at 59.xxxxx FPS. I ran the nvlddmkm-patcher-1.3.4 as well. I guess this all just is a bit overwhelming for me. Anyhelp would be appreciated.


I know this has nothing to do with overclocking but, I received mine yesterday from green-sum and im pretty sure i have a DOA. Seen as we should have the exact same monitor, when it is on and showing picture, what color is the power button? Red, Blue or Green? They are trying to tell me that I am having a compatibility issue and that's why my light is Blue. Also, they said that this particular model should be Green if everything is working and compatible... I just find it hard to believe that if it is supposed to be Green, then why does everyone else's picture of their monitor have a Blue light.

What GPU are you using?

Thanks


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PfrikinF*
> 
> New to the Forum, and I must say, impressive! Tons of info!
> 
> Anyways, just got mine today, plugged her in, got the Blue Light, Windows registered it, but there is no picture... I dont even get the "no signal". Just a blank screen like its not even on. Any Ideas? Did I get a DOA?
> 
> I did pull it apart and nothing looked damaged/burned. Also, I have tried original cable, monoprice 24AWG cable, both ports on my gtx 970 and also the port on the on-board graphics. If i plug in my Dell using the same cables/ports, the Dell works fine.
> 
> Thanks!!!


Can you still get a better image of the panel model? It's too blurry. Also, you need to take a pic of the front of those boards. The back doesn't say much.

It looks like you have an LW270WQ01 panel? It is SL C1 though. Mine is also LW270WQ1 so we could compare the front of the boards to see if anything is bulging or out of place.


----------



## cyris69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PfrikinF*
> 
> I know this has nothing to do with overclocking but, I received mine yesterday from green-sum and im pretty sure i have a DOA. Seen as we should have the exact same monitor, when it is on and showing picture, what color is the power button? Red, Blue or Green? They are trying to tell me that I am having a compatibility issue and that's why my light is Blue. Also, they said that this particular model should be Green if everything is working and compatible... I just find it hard to believe that if it is supposed to be Green, then why does everyone else's picture of their monitor have a Blue light.
> 
> What GPU are you using?
> 
> Thanks


Odd, well mine when it had power going to it the LED was red. When I turned my PC on the LED went blue and turned on by itself I never had to power it on.
I'm using a Nvidia GTX 980ti
Mine also came in an unsealed "used" box incorrect model box to boot. However the serial/info sticker on back is correct and only has the DVI-D port.


----------



## PfrikinF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Can you still get a better image of the panel model? It's too blurry. Also, you need to take a pic of the front of those boards. The back doesn't say much.
> 
> It looks like you have an LW270WQ01 panel? It is SL C1 though. Mine is also LW270WQ1 so we could compare the front of the boards to see if anything is bulging or out of place.


Sorry for fuzziness - It is the LW270WQ1. As far as pics of the front board, monitor is back together and packaged up waiting for a response from green-sum. They are "contacting the manufacturer". We'll see what happens.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyris69*
> 
> Odd, well mine when it had power going to it the LED was red. When I turned my PC on the LED went blue and turned on by itself I never had to power it on.
> I'm using a Nvidia GTX 980ti
> Mine also came in an unsealed "used" box incorrect model box to boot. However the serial/info sticker on back is correct and only has the DVI-D port.


Ok. Looks identical. My LED is red when plugged in and comp off. Turn comp on and LED turns blue, but no picture or backlight. Super bummed but, at this point, we'll see what happens.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PfrikinF*
> 
> Sorry for fuzziness - It is the LW270WQ1. As far as pics of the front board, monitor is back together and packaged up waiting for a response from green-sum. They are "contacting the manufacturer". We'll see what happens.
> Ok. Looks identical. My LED is red when plugged in and comp off. Turn comp on and LED turns blue, but no picture or backlight. Super bummed but, at this point, we'll see what happens.


Hmm... I had mine go red for no reason, as if it lost the video feed, and changing the cable solved it. To me your monitor is DOA, yes. That sucks


----------



## cyris69

Just wish I could figure out this OC stuff, do I install the xstar or qnix monitor driver even though its a crossover?

Nevermind, got it working with qnix drivers etc. Seems I need to downgrade drivers to 358.50 to use custom profiles with multi-monitor setup.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyris69*
> 
> Just wish I could figure out this OC stuff, do I install the xstar or qnix monitor driver even though its a crossover?
> 
> Nevermind, got it working with qnix drivers etc. Seems I need to downgrade drivers to 358.50 to use custom profiles with multi-monitor setup.


You don't need the monitor driver, there isn't one for the Crossover. The Nvidia driver will know what to do with it, it will show up as "27QHD" even though windows calls it a "Generic PnP Monitor" but it's nothing to worry about.

Hopefully Nvidia will fix their drivers for those of us with multiple monitors. If you notice some games are ignoring the refresh rates you set in the Nividia control panel, just use Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) to force the refresh rate globally.

Check out the color profiles in the first post of this thread to help correct the colors and gamma shift after overclocking the monitor. Use Color Sustainer to force the profiles to "stick" so that they're not ignored by games.


----------



## PfrikinF

Welp, day 2... Please send a video of your problem so we can send it to the manufacture and if they think it is an issue, we will send a return. Really? All you are goin to get is a black screen... Ugh... I just want to play in 1440p on your monitor. That's all. Please???


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PfrikinF*
> 
> Welp, day 2... Please send a video of your problem so we can send it to the manufacture and if they think it is an issue, we will send a return. Really? All you are goin to get is a black screen... Ugh... I just want to play in 1440p on your monitor. That's all. Please???


I forgot to tell you to just go ahead and do that the other day when you originally posted about your problem, my bad.

I had to do the same thing with "DaySale" before returning my QNIX DP2710 to Newegg.






I'm not quite sure why he's requesting a video for an issue like yours but it seems like protocol I guess.


----------



## PfrikinF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> I forgot to tell you to just go ahead and do that the other day when you originally posted about your problem, my bad.
> 
> I had to do the same thing with "DaySale" before returning my QNIX DP2710 to Newegg.
> 
> I'm not quite sure why he's requesting a video for an issue like yours but it seems like protocol I guess.


Yeah.... I spose. lol. I'll get them their vidja. I'm just too antsy.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PfrikinF*
> 
> Yeah.... I spose. lol. I'll get them their vidja. I'm just too antsy.


Definitely disappointing. My QNIX worked flawlessly for twelve hours. Woke up the next day and had all sorts of craziness! I ended up with a better monitor because of it though, so it worked out.


----------



## PfrikinF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Definitely disappointing. My QNIX worked flawlessly for twelve hours. Woke up the next day and had all sorts of craziness! I ended up with a better monitor because of it though, so it worked out.


Yeah, it seems as thought the majority of owners are very pleased. I'll get mine. I'll just have to play in 1080p for a lil while longer.


----------



## cyris69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> You don't need the monitor driver, there isn't one for the Crossover. The Nvidia driver will know what to do with it, it will show up as "27QHD" even though windows calls it a "Generic PnP Monitor" but it's nothing to worry about.
> 
> Hopefully Nvidia will fix their drivers for those of us with multiple monitors. If you notice some games are ignoring the refresh rates you set in the Nividia control panel, just use Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) to force the refresh rate globally.
> 
> Check out the color profiles in the first post of this thread to help correct the colors and gamma shift after overclocking the monitor. Use Color Sustainer to force the profiles to "stick" so that they're not ignored by games.


Should I uninstall that driver update? I went ahead and applied the sRGB profile in color manager and now the sustainer tool. Not sure why but didn't like the gamma 2.2 profile made it more yellow and overly bright whereas the sRGB was nice and white and no yellow.

Now the only issue I have now unfortunately is while I CAN apply the OC with two monitors the secondary being 1080p 60Hz I get frame skipping in the UFO test and sometimes randomly a black frame while gaming. However I can unplug the other monitor temporarily to avoid that, but, I like to watch a movie or have other things going on while I game so I'll just deal with that.

I'm actually surprised at the level performance impact that comes from 1440p with my system. Guess I will have to deal with it till the price of another 980ti is under 400$. 3930k OC'd to 4.5ghz, pushing my gpu as far as I can stable wise and still not where I want the performance. 3DMark I get 45-50FPS running firestrike 1440p, 110+ 1080p firestrike. Heaven benchmark 62-80FPS maxed at 1440.

I just ran the Metro 2033 Redux benchmark maxed and most of it got 27-36FPS then it evened out to 80 when it was past all the insanity.

Honestly though, I only get a wow factor from watching this 



 as it's freaking STUNNING. However Fallout 4 looks the same to me as does Rust. Maybe I was just expecting a night/day upgrade. I am VERY pleased though with the purchase and will be buying another maybe in a year.

EDIT:
Well jumped in the actual game SSAO was the only thing bringing the system to its knees so disabled it and 150-200FPS. How exactly do I know the OC is applied in the game? I turned vsync on and it went to 60 not 96. I applied everything in NVCP and CRU but maybe I'm doing that wrong.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyris69*
> 
> Should I uninstall that driver update? I went ahead and applied the sRGB profile in color manager and now the sustainer tool. Not sure why but didn't like the gamma 2.2 profile made it more yellow and overly bright whereas the sRGB was nice and white and no yellow.
> 
> Now the only issue I have now unfortunately is while I CAN apply the OC with two monitors the secondary being 1080p 60Hz I get frame skipping in the UFO test and sometimes randomly a black frame while gaming. However I can unplug the other monitor temporarily to avoid that, but, I like to watch a movie or have other things going on while I game so I'll just deal with that.
> 
> I'm actually surprised at the level performance impact that comes from 1440p with my system. Guess I will have to deal with it till the price of another 980ti is under 400$. 3930k OC'd to 4.5ghz, pushing my gpu as far as I can stable wise and still not where I want the performance. 3DMark I get 45-50FPS running firestrike 1440p, 110+ 1080p firestrike. Heaven benchmark 62-80FPS maxed at 1440.
> 
> I just ran the Metro 2033 Redux benchmark maxed and most of it got 27-36FPS then it evened out to 80 when it was past all the insanity.
> 
> Honestly though, I only get a wow factor from watching this
> 
> 
> 
> as it's freaking STUNNING. However Fallout 4 looks the same to me as does Rust. Maybe I was just expecting a night/day upgrade. I am VERY pleased though with the purchase and will be buying another maybe in a year.
> 
> EDIT:
> Well jumped in the actual game SSAO was the only thing bringing the system to its knees so disabled it and 150-200FPS. How exactly do I know the OC is applied in the game? I turned vsync on and it went to 60 not 96. I applied everything in NVCP and CRU but maybe I'm doing that wrong.


Try these instructions...
http://www.overclock.net/t/1555354/official-crossover-2795-qhd-pwm-flicker-free-overclock-able-matte-1440p-ah-ips/1350#post_24615115

And if vsync is telling you 60. Your refresh rate overclock isn't registering in your game. Anything other than CRU set up properly tends to run like this. As far as I'm concerned, Nvidia's monitor overclocking utility is next to useless, unless all you do is watch videos.


----------



## ilgello

Someone said to avoid the 75hz Realclock model as it doesn't overclock, from Ebay.it all the ones I have checked show that 75hz somewhere


----------



## SystemTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PfrikinF*
> 
> Yeah.... I spose. lol. I'll get them their vidja. I'm just too antsy.


I would also include showing them that your other screen works 100% and show the cable/connectors that you are using


----------



## fireregister

Hello guys,

I'm new here, I've been trying to read all the threads however I couldn't find what I was looking for which is a recommendation. I'm thinking of buying a Korean Panel since they offer free shipping internationally which is easier for me since I live in Eastern Europe.

Now what would recommend at this point in time?

Additionally I've done some search myself and came up with:

1. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710LED-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-27-Monitor-Glossy-/321135502506 (which I believe is not the multi input one)

2. Crossover 2795QHD from dream-seller

3. DP2414 from dream-seller as well

I wouldn't mind getting another monitor and which one would you recommend outside the ones I mentioned and what pro/cons do each have (my recommendation compared to yours) kinda.

I really need some help :/

Thank you for your time!


----------



## cyris69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> Try these instructions...
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1555354/official-crossover-2795-qhd-pwm-flicker-free-overclock-able-matte-1440p-ah-ips/1350#post_24615115
> 
> And if vsync is telling you 60. Your refresh rate overclock isn't registering in your game. Anything other than CRU set up properly tends to run like this. As far as I'm concerned, Nvidia's monitor overclocking utility is next to useless, unless all you do is watch videos.


Thanks, I went ahead and did that. My issue was I didn't add it via custom block and patch the files since I was reading you dont need to for 96Hz. I'd pretty cool to use vsync at 96hz as it seems to remove all the nasty input lag you get at 60hz which makes you feel like you're moving in tar.


----------



## mattpls

Monitor arrived today from dream-seller after a while in customs (UK), got hit with a £105 charge!









Stand/body is a bit meh but expected that, will probably be replacing it with the Dell stand linked earlier in the thread. Lovely screen though, appears to be no dead/stuck pixels either.

Overclocked it straight away using the NVIDIA Control Panel to 96Hz, running great so far.

Is it recommended to use one of the ICC profiles? Or is it decent colour wise out of the box? Especially considering ill be doing a lot of design work on this screen.


----------



## cyris69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattpls*
> 
> Monitor arrived today from dream-seller after a while in customs (UK), got hit with a £105 charge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stand/body is a bit meh but expected that, will probably be replacing it with the Dell stand linked earlier in the thread. Lovely screen though, appears to be no dead/stuck pixels either.
> 
> Overclocked it straight away using the NVIDIA Control Panel to 96Hz, running great so far.
> 
> Is it recommended to use one of the ICC profiles? Or is it decent colour wise out of the box? Especially considering ill be doing a lot of design work on this screen.


I think it's going to be monitor dependant? The default profile created after my OC was way too bright and yellow, the sRGB profile in this thread fixed the whites and brightness for me. The gamma profile was worse.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ilgello*
> 
> Someone said to avoid the 75hz Realclock model as it doesn't overclock, from Ebay.it all the ones I have checked show that 75hz somewhere


Those don't overclock (well or at all iirc). You want the 2795QHD just regular. It has to have DVI-D dual link only along with power input. There are matte, glossy, sem-glossy/matte version out there but that just makes a difference in colors.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fireregister*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> I'm new here, I've been trying to read all the threads however I couldn't find what I was looking for which is a recommendation. I'm thinking of buying a Korean Panel since they offer free shipping internationally which is easier for me since I live in Eastern Europe.
> 
> Now what would recommend at this point in time?
> 
> Additionally I've done some search myself and came up with:
> 
> 1. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710LED-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-27-Monitor-Glossy-/321135502506 (which I believe is not the multi input one)
> 
> 2. Crossover 2795QHD from dream-seller
> 
> 3. DP2414 from dream-seller as well
> 
> I wouldn't mind getting another monitor and which one would you recommend outside the ones I mentioned and what pro/cons do each have (my recommendation compared to yours) kinda.
> 
> I really need some help :/
> 
> Thank you for your time!


I got my 2795QHD from dream-seller as did a couple of others here too. Pixel perfect is just a way to increase price wihtout us knowing how exactly they test for them, if they test them at all, so avoid those if you see them. The difference between the X-Star/Qnix model and Crossover is the flickering, which this one doesn't have. This topic is kiiiind of biased towards the 2795, mostly because this is the 2795 topic. Overal, the majority of buyers here have had little to no problems with the Crossover 2795QHD.

I don't know anything about the DP2414 so I'll keep it about 1 and 2. Both are pretty similar and both can overclock quiet well, some better than others. The major difference is pwm dimming/flickering which #2 doesn't have. Not everyone is susceptible to noticing it so you might be good with the QNIX.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fireregister*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> I'm new here, I've been trying to read all the threads however I couldn't find what I was looking for which is a recommendation. I'm thinking of buying a Korean Panel since they offer free shipping internationally which is easier for me since I live in Eastern Europe.
> 
> Now what would recommend at this point in time?
> 
> Additionally I've done some search myself and came up with:
> 
> 1. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710LED-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-27-Monitor-Glossy-/321135502506 (which I believe is not the multi input one)
> 
> 2. Crossover 2795QHD from dream-seller
> 
> 3. DP2414 from dream-seller as well
> 
> I wouldn't mind getting another monitor and which one would you recommend outside the ones I mentioned and what pro/cons do each have (my recommendation compared to yours) kinda.
> 
> I really need some help :/
> 
> Thank you for your time!


Get the Crossover 2795QHD, it's the best option for the 27" 1440p Korean monitors right now.

The QNIX are using the "07" panels now instead of the "02" or "06" panels and they're not as good as they used to be. The new panel uses PWM backlighting which causes headaches and eye strain for many users.

*Don't get a multi input monitor if you want to overclock it. They do not overclock well.* Get a single input dvi dual link for overclocking.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattpls*
> 
> Monitor arrived today from dream-seller after a while in customs (UK), got hit with a £105 charge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stand/body is a bit meh but expected that, will probably be replacing it with the Dell stand linked earlier in the thread. Lovely screen though, appears to be no dead/stuck pixels either.
> 
> Overclocked it straight away using the NVIDIA Control Panel to 96Hz, running great so far.
> 
> Is it recommended to use one of the ICC profiles? Or is it decent colour wise out of the box? Especially considering ill be doing a lot of design work on this screen.


Use the ICC profiles found here and you'll want the sRGB profile for design work since color accuracy will be important to you. The sRGB profile I linked to is set up for a 96Hz overclock, it corrects the color shifting and gamma shifting which occurs when you overclock a monitor.. Thus I highly recommend using the ICC profiles for any user, but especially those who do any kind of editing or design work. For those who are more into gaming or watching (or editing) movies, use the gamma 2.2 profile which is the standard for video editing.

Hope this helps!


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Those don't overclock (well or at all iirc). You want the 2795QHD just regular. It has to have DVI-D dual link only along with power input. There are matte, glossy, sem-glossy/matte version out there but that just makes a difference in colors.
> .


As far as I know, the version you want is the AH-IPS 2795... which comes in matt only. If someone has a glossy and overclocks like the matt version do share. Some others earlier in the thread wanted a glossy one and found that to be a deal breaker.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Use the ICC profiles found here and you'll want the sRGB profile for design work since color accuracy will be important to you. The sRGB profile I linked to is set up for a 96Hz overclock, it corrects the color shifting and gamma shifting which occurs when you overclock a monitor.. Thus I highly recommend using the ICC profiles for any user, but especially those who do any kind of editing or design work. For those who are more into gaming or watching (or editing) movies, use the gamma 2.2 profile which is the standard for video editing.
> 
> Hope this helps!


sRGB for web design primarily... but for design work you should use whatever color space your work requires... you can usually specify that separately in Adobe photoshop or otherwise - I don't think you'll be using sRGB unless you primarily only do web design?

For those using the ICC profile... note that you actually have to adjust the brightness... you shouldn't be using the max setting out of the box... because there is no OSD... the creator suggested 12-13 clicks down from max, which is where I'm at.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyris69*
> 
> Thanks, I went ahead and did that. My issue was I didn't add it via custom block and patch the files since I was reading you dont need to for 96Hz. I'd pretty cool to use vsync at 96hz as it seems to remove all the nasty input lag you get at 60hz which makes you feel like you're moving in tar.


Great. Glad it worked. Like the replies after that initial post, that is just not true because the pixel clock is very high at 1440p. If you did it without patching you're limited to just 16bit colors. In any case, just junk the Nvidia overclocking utility. It's just not reliably accepted by everything. Set it once in CRU and forget about it. If you have to upgrade your video drivers... just remember to patch it again and you're gold.


----------



## Death2Consoles

The Crossover 2795 doesn't have that many "clicks" for brightness, the QNIX does. If yours has that many clicks then it's been changed on recent models.

sRGB would be appropriate for any type of design work where images are involved and color accuracy is of the utmost importance. Photoshop doesn't magically make your monitor accurate according to a colorometer.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> The Crossover 2795 doesn't have that many "clicks" for brightness, the QNIX does. If yours has that many clicks then it's been changed on recent models.
> 
> sRGB would be appropriate for any type of design work where images are involved and color accuracy is of the utmost importance. Photoshop doesn't magically make your monitor accurate according to a colorometer.


Was talking about the importance of color space and how the profile affects the final colorspace needed. Anyways, it's not something I want to dwell on.

With regard to the brightness button... do quick taps pressing and holding a tad longer than half a second is typically 2-3 bumps... start from the brightest and you'll notice the difference.


----------



## PfrikinF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SystemTech*
> 
> I would also include showing them that your other screen works 100% and show the cable/connectors that you are using


Good thinking! Did that, uploaded the vid today and sent them the link. Within a couple hours, i got a return label! Going out tomorrow when UPS picks up from my work. Now, the waiting game....


----------



## suzuki7

i get QHD2795.
Ghost at 110 Hz or more is displayed.
60-100Hz is no problem.
This was sufficient performance for me.

QHD2795_OC.inf.txt 2k .txt file


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suzuki7*
> 
> i get QHD2795.
> Ghost at 110 Hz or more is displayed.
> 60-100Hz is no problem.
> This was sufficient performance for me.
> 
> QHD2795_OC.inf.txt 2k .txt file


Very nice Suzuki! Is that a driver file you created for this monitor?


----------



## suzuki7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> Very nice Suzuki! Is that a driver file you created for this monitor?


At least in my monitor it worked.
INF is Export by Custom Resolution Utility(ver 1.2.4).
If necessary, you can import the INF to Custom Resolution Utility.

[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suzuki7*
> 
> At least in my monitor it worked.
> INF is Export by Custom Resolution Utility(ver 1.2.4).
> If necessary, you can import the INF to Custom Resolution Utility.
> 
> [email protected]
> [email protected]
> [email protected]
> [email protected]
> [email protected]
> [email protected]
> [email protected]
> [email protected]
> [email protected]


I never bothered to click the dropdown tab before... I thought it exported to bin or raw only. Very cool... just did the same for mine and installed it. Seems to work... my clock settings seem higher than yours but I've included more 16:10 resolutions. Thanks for sharing... I would never have known otherwise!


----------



## ilgello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Those don't overclock (well or at all iirc). You want the 2795QHD just regular. It has to have DVI-D dual link only along with power input. There are matte, glossy, sem-glossy/matte version out there but that just makes a difference in colors.


Thanks, between shipping, import taxes, pixel/panel lottery and horrible stand (would be forced to get a mount), I think I'll wait and I'll get a better monitor in a couple of months.


----------



## rolfathan

IMO there isn
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ilgello*
> 
> Thanks, between shipping, import taxes, pixel/panel lottery and horrible stand (would be forced to get a mount), I think I'll wait and I'll get a better monitor in a couple of months.


What one is better though? (If you plan on overclocking, at any rate.)

The Asus and Acer IPS gaming monitors with their AU Optronics panels have been notorious for having a lot of issues. I got the Asus one, a $650 monitor, and right of the box, the entire right half of the panel was non-functional.

I've been following this thread because I feel risking a no-name monitor with a legitimate good panel is less risky than buying Asus housing for a AU Optronics panel. Those things are crap.

If you don't plan on overclocking and want good IPS, then go with BenQ now. They offer a few models that are flicker-free at a pretty low price.


----------



## ilgello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolfathan*
> 
> IMO there isn
> What one is better though? (If you plan on overclocking, at any rate.)
> 
> The Asus and Acer IPS gaming monitors with their AU Optronics panels have been notorious for having a lot of issues. I got the Asus one, a $650 monitor, and right of the box, the entire right half of the panel was non-functional.
> 
> I've been following this thread because I feel risking a no-name monitor with a legitimate good panel is less risky than buying Asus housing for a AU Optronics panel. Those things are crap.
> 
> If you don't plan on overclocking and want good IPS, then go with BenQ now. They offer a few models that are flicker-free at a pretty low price.


True that, we are in the same boat.

I think this monitor is great around the 300/320 Euro price point, but since I would end up spending much more than that (shipping, taxes, monitor stand), I'd rather wait and see if the current higher end IPS becomes more reliable (or way cheaper).

Most of all I don't like much the idea of having lower grade panels, especially if swapping them becomes a daunting task, I could never live with bad pixels excessive bleeding and so on.

If nothing comes up I would just take a standard 60hz 1440p which I would use for working and casual gaming, being a racing/space sim lover, I have a good feeling that gaming wise, my 2016 will be focused on Oculus/Vive anyway









Again if I could have one of these at 300/320$ with pixel check I would get it no questions asked.


----------



## tonyeezy

Just picked myself a VIVO monitor mount for X-mas, would anybody be able to redirect me to a tutorial on how to remove the stand? I remember moving the stand wasn't too difficult but the peg out of the bottom of the monitor was a pain if I remember.


----------



## cyris69

Wish I could OC to 96Hz, I get green single pixel thick lines randomly on the screen at times and some black frames. I still think maybe this is to do with Nvidia drivers and dual monitors. Kinda sucks, however, 90hz is fine.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyris69*
> 
> Wish I could OC to 96Hz, I get green single pixel thick lines randomly on the screen at times and some black frames. I still think maybe this is to do with Nvidia drivers and dual monitors. Kinda sucks, however, 90hz is fine.


It's not the drivers, use custom resolution utility if you want to be sure.

It's more likely that the issue is the cheap dual link dvi cable that came with your monitor. I had random green pixels at 96Hz with the cable which came with my monitor. I bought a $10 Link Depot cable off Newegg with a $2 promo code which made it $8 and it came yesterday. No more random green pixels. I saw another one from Coboc on sale at Newegg for $5 and I got that for the heck of it.

TLDR: Try a better cable. Look for something made with copper, something shielded, gold plated ends, etc. Make sure it's a dual link dvi cable and not a single link (looks like a dual link but has half the number of pins)


----------



## cyris69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> It's not the drivers, use custom resolution utility if you want to be sure.
> 
> It's more likely that the issue is the cheap dual link dvi cable that came with your monitor. I had random green pixels at 96Hz with the cable which came with my monitor. I bought a $10 Link Depot cable off Newegg with a $2 promo code which made it $8 and it came yesterday. No more random green pixels. I saw another one from Coboc on sale at Newegg for $5 and I got that for the heck of it.
> 
> TLDR: Try a better cable. Look for something made with copper, something shielded, gold plated ends, etc. Make sure it's a dual link dvi cable and not a single link (looks like a dual link but has half the number of pins)


Ok, I'll try a new cable. This one has great reviews for OC monitors: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NJ0S1W People say all copper pins/cables etc.
I also do all the resolutions/refresh rates in CRU and apply them in NVCP. However, dual monitors does mess with sync etc from what I was reading from a post by Toasty.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyris69*
> 
> Ok, I'll try a new cable. This one has great reviews for OC monitors: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NJ0S1W People say all copper pins/cables etc.
> I also do all the resolutions/refresh rates in CRU and apply them in NVCP. However, dual monitors does mess with sync etc from what I was reading from a post by Toasty.


I use dual monitors as well.. I agree that it might cause some issues for some people but it's most likely that your cable is picking up some interference and causing your issues. Unplug your other monitor and retest if you'd like to be sure that it's not just multiple monitors causing your issue.

The only driver/multi monitor issue I've noticed is that users with multi monitors can't set a custom refresh rate in NCP with any driver which came *after* version 358.50.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonyeezy*
> 
> Just picked myself a VIVO monitor mount for X-mas, would anybody be able to redirect me to a tutorial on how to remove the stand? I remember moving the stand wasn't too difficult but the peg out of the bottom of the monitor was a pain if I remember.











There's a playlist if you click the video and watch on YouTube with other useful information.

I opened my QNIX up, it was easy albeit scary until I figured out how to pop the clips loose without applying much force. Just take your time and be careful not to tug on any wires while you're in there.

I haven't opened up my Crossover yet since I can still return it if something went wrong, but in a week or two I'll be VESA mounting it. It's the same process for both the QNIX and the Crossover.


----------



## RAZZTA01

Hi,
I am going to pull the trigger for this monitor since I have not the gpu power for 4k. Now i am getting solid 130frames on bf4 at 1680*1050 or 90-100 frames at 1080p. With some tweacking (oc+ ingame setup) I think my i52500k and r9290 will work at 1440p, Let me know if I am wrong..
Also, anything else I should take into account before buying?..cables, seller shop, dead pixel policy, etc.?
I am planning to buy from dreamseller at 307$ (incl. free shipping).
Rgds.


----------



## cyris69

Got that new cable in just now to my surprise I can OC now to 110 without issue. I can even make it to 120 but that's where it starts to act up now








I paid for same day shipping on amazon because I didn't want to wait till Wednesday to try it out but the cable works very well for 9$.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyris69*
> 
> Got that new cable in just now to my surprise I can OC now to 110 without issue. I can even make it to 120 but that's where it starts to act up now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I paid for same day shipping on amazon because I didn't want to wait till Wednesday to try it out but the cable works very well for 9$.


Told ya so









Glad it worked out man!


----------



## tonyeezy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a playlist if you click the video and watch on YouTube with other useful information.
> 
> I opened my QNIX up, it was easy albeit scary until I figured out how to pop the clips loose without applying much force. Just take your time and be careful not to tug on any wires while you're in there.
> 
> I haven't opened up my Crossover yet since I can still return it if something went wrong, but in a week or two I'll be VESA mounting it. It's the same process for both the QNIX and the Crossover.


Awesome man I'll be doing this soon thank you!


----------



## sdmodified

Just received mine in the mail. I ordered the perfect pixel version from Green-Sum and it looks great. Running at 96 HZ no problem!! Now to just get a better stand.


----------



## d3ity

I ordered the same one you did, sdmodified, the green-sum pixel perfect. It's in the mail now! Just wanted to ask to be prepared, how bad is the stand actually?

Like _cheap and ugly but works_ bad? Or _this piece of crap might snap any minute and destroy the monitor_ bad?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3ity*
> 
> I ordered the same one you did, sdmodified, the green-sum pixel perfect. It's in the mail now! Just wanted to ask to be prepared, how bad is the stand actually?
> 
> Like _cheap and ugly but works_ bad? Or _this piece of crap might snap any minute and destroy the monitor_ bad?


They're not that bad. It's honestly the same design that any cheaper Asus monitor uses, my old Asus has a nearly identical stand. I never really liked the style of the stand, as it doesn't lend itself to stability, but it's not nearly as bad as people make it out to be. If it's super wobbly, there's a 95% chance you didn't tighten the nut on the bottom of the stand firmly with a screwdriver. I did my QNIX by hand and it was snug and fairly stable. I did my Crossover by hand, cranked it as tight as I could (and I have strong hands) and it wobbled like crazy. I knew this wasn't normal since my QNIX has the same stand and didn't wobble unless I bashed my desk, whereas the Crossover was wobbling when I was typing. I cranked the screw down tightly with a screwdriver and it was every bit as stable as my QNIX and my Asus VS247H-P is. It's certainly not going to put your investment at risk but it's definitely a weak point which I'd recommend replacing if you're looking for a more premium experience.


----------



## d3ity

awesome, thanks for the info. good to know it won't just fall apart on me suddenly. and i'll be sure to tighten the stand very well like you suggest.


----------



## Dradus

My Crossover 2795 is being delivered tomorrow, I'll give an update when I take a look at it. I got the Pixel Perfect from green-sum. I'm a quite weary as I've never bought from a foreign manufacturer and it seems like a bit of a gamble, but I'm hoping it pays off. I also ordered a better quality DVI cable from Amazon that says it was delivered to my mailbox today, but it wasn't there. Typical USPS.

I'm also looking into getting a vesa mount, but I don't know if it's possible. I don't have a power drill or stud finder or anything. Desk mount won't work either because of how ****ty my desk is. Any options for me?


----------



## DiaSin

So.. if I've decided I can't spend the money on the OC model, but still want the resolution and a pretty screen, is there any reason not to buy this one? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-27QHD-IPS-LED-27-WQHD-2560X1440-Monitor-Tempered-Glass-/121736725444?hash=item1c581303c4:gJcAAOSwT6pV0YW4


----------



## d3ity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> So.. if I've decided I can't spend the money on the OC model, but still want the resolution and a pretty screen, is there any reason not to buy this one? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-27QHD-IPS-LED-27-WQHD-2560X1440-Monitor-Tempered-Glass-/121736725444?hash=item1c581303c4:gJcAAOSwT6pV0YW4


That's right, the 27QHD is the non-oc version of the same monitor. FWIW some people can still get slight OCs of like 75 Hz with it.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3ity*
> 
> That's right, the 27QHD is the non-oc version of the same monitor. FWIW some people can still get slight OCs of like 75 Hz with it.


I knew that much, but is there any reason not to get the particular one I linked? The tempered glass version? I work at Office Depot, and we sell an HP monitor with a tempered glass front, and its the prettiest monitor in the store.


----------



## d3ity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> I knew that much, but is there any reason not to get the particular one I linked? The tempered glass version? I work at Office Depot, and we sell an HP monitor with a tempered glass front, and its the prettiest monitor in the store.


Yeah, tempered glass makes for a beautiful display, but it's also the glossiest-possible display that could make for very high glare and reflections if you're not in a dark room or have light sources behind the monitor. I know from having used Macbook Pros, for example, which also have glass screens that annoyed the hell out of me with their constant reflections. It depends on the environment you'd use the monitor in.


----------



## Dradus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> I knew that much, but is there any reason not to get the particular one I linked? The tempered glass version? I work at Office Depot, and we sell an HP monitor with a tempered glass front, and its the prettiest monitor in the store.


Glossy screens are beautiful, but so much as lights on your PC will reflect against the screen. If you've used the display in a well-lit place like Office Depot and have no complaints about glare, then you should go for it. Personally, overclocking is the biggest selling point for me, so if I couldn't afford the Crossover 2795, I'd go with one of the cheaper overclockable Korean monitors.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> I knew that much, but is there any reason not to get the particular one I linked? The tempered glass version? I work at Office Depot, and we sell an HP monitor with a tempered glass front, and its the prettiest monitor in the store.


Tempered glass is the worst coating one can put on a monitor since it is far more reflective than glossy coatings, causes internal and external reflections since there's a gap between the panel and the glass, and makes black look grey. Example: Left=glass versus matte right:


__
https://flic.kr/p/f7r6qn


__
https://flic.kr/p/f7r6qn
 by Deepinthesky Teslastorm, on Flickr

__
https://flic.kr/p/f7r6BK


__
https://flic.kr/p/f7r6BK
 by Deepinthesky Teslastorm, on Flickr

Black still looks grey when the lights are off compared to non-glass monitors.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Tempered glass is the worst coating one can put on a monitor since it is far more reflective than glossy coatings, causes internal and external reflections since there's a gap between the panel and the glass, and makes black look grey. Example: Left=glass versus matte right:
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/f7r6qn
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/f7r6qn
> by Deepinthesky Teslastorm, on Flickr
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/f7r6BK
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/f7r6BK
> by Deepinthesky Teslastorm, on Flickr
> 
> Black still looks grey when the lights are off compared to non-glass monitors.


Yeah.. another thing I realized is that not only did the price of the 27QHD with the glass go up, way up, the 2795 has gone way down. Last time I looked at the prices the glass screen was like 230, and the OC model was like 365. I dunno though, it depends on how things look when I actually have the money.

I have ALSO heard though that once you take the glass off of one of those korean screens it can be amazingly gorgeous.


----------



## d3ity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> once you take the glass off


take the glass off? so what's underneath? NOTHING BUT PURE PIXELS???


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3ity*
> 
> take the glass off? so what's underneath? NOTHING BUT PURE PIXELS???


----------



## Dradus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dradus*
> 
> My Crossover 2795 is being delivered tomorrow, I'll give an update when I take a look at it. I got the Pixel Perfect from green-sum. I'm a quite weary as I've never bought from a foreign manufacturer and it seems like a bit of a gamble, but I'm hoping it pays off. I also ordered a better quality DVI cable from Amazon that says it was delivered to my mailbox today, but it wasn't there. Typical USPS.
> 
> I'm also looking into getting a vesa mount, but I don't know if it's possible. I don't have a power drill or stud finder or anything. Desk mount won't work either because of how ****ty my desk is. Any options for me?


So I got it today. Holy crap, it's beautiful. Zero dead pixels, no obvious backlight bleed. First thing I did was try overclocking it. Tried 96hz, worked perfectly. I immediately noticed a difference, it's as glorious as I imagined it would be. Then I tried 110hz. I assumed I'd get artifacting or something, especially considering I'm using the DVI cable provided, but to my surprise my unit handled it easily. I hopped on CSGO and was blown away. Needless to say I am very happy with my purchase.


----------



## ganron

Sigh.....Am i the only one to stuck with 96Hz(rare green artifacts) on Stock cable ? Even with Monoprice 6ft 24AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable i can't get past 100Hz.


----------



## rolfathan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*


So... what exactly... is under the glass then? I feel like the video didn't particularly answer that, other than it looking better than it did with glass. I assume there's no real perk over just doing matte.


----------



## Dradus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganron*
> 
> Sigh.....Am i the only one to stuck with 96Hz(rare green artifacts) on Stock cable ? Even with Monoprice 6ft 24AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable i can't get past 100Hz.


If it makes you feel any better, I couldn't boot back into Windows 10 with 110hz overclock, so I went back down to 96hz. I'm not even sure I could tell the difference between the two honestly. I'll try 110hz again if I ever get the DVI cable that USPS lost.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolfathan*
> 
> So... what exactly... is under the glass then? I feel like the video didn't particularly answer that, other than it looking better than it did with glass. I assume there's no real perk over just doing matte.


Well there's the panel underneath I assume. I opened mine up and I'm touching the panel directly. It has a semi-matte coating that can be removed but I don't want to. I watched the video while typing, the tempered glass is on top of the panel. Removing it means you're viewing the panel directly.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolfathan*
> 
> So... what exactly... is under the glass then? I feel like the video didn't particularly answer that, other than it looking better than it did with glass. I assume there's no real perk over just doing matte.


Just the bare panel. The idea of this is if you can't find the monitor you want without glass, or if its way cheaper with the glass version, then this is the way to go. But, like I mentioned earlier, the prices on these have changed so much since I was originally looking at the glass 27QHD there would be no point right now, its something like a $35 difference between the glass 27QHD and the 2795QHD now, perfect pixel on both.


----------



## MenacingTuba

The Korean monitors with glass usually have matte panels underneath, and risking overclock-ability to save such a small amount of money (+/- 50$) is stupid.


----------



## sdmodified

This monitor is beautiful!!! Just thought I would add that in here. 96hz running strong and i can't find any dead pixels. Haven't tried to OC past 96hz yet but will update when I do...

I was nervous about this whole Korean monitor move but I am really glad I listened to everyone here. Man, 1440 is awesome!! Also, i figured out how to get the stand to tilt ( took some muscle) and now I am even happy with the stand (considering my samsug monitor stand didn't tilt at all this is an upgrade).


----------



## xzamples

which korean monitor do you guys recommend for hdmi card?


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The Korean monitors with glass usually have matte panels underneath, and risking overclock-ability to save such a small amount of money (+/- 50$) is stupid.


You try saying saving 50 bucks is stupid when YOUR average paycheck is only about $210. I said from the start I've pretty much given up on being able to afford the OC model.


----------



## Remius

So I've been looking at getting a 1080p 144hz monitor and someone suggested that I check this monitor out instead since I play mainly MMOs and single player (campaign) games. It looks like a few of the concerns I had with the Qnix made imports are not present in this model (screen flicker, dead pixels, etc.). Unfortunately I have not found any formal reviews for it though many people have said the screen has good color presets. How does the image quality of the 2795 compare to something like the LG 24GM77? The IPS vs TN should be substantial but the Qnix seemed to have lowish quality colors from a few sources. Also, what is the difference between the Ultimate Pixel Perfect, Pixel Perfect, and regular version of the monitor? My comp will be running a i5-6600k and 980ti so performance at high resolution and/or frame rate will hopefully be good for a couple years. Thanks in advance for your help.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> You try saying saving 50 bucks is stupid when YOUR average paycheck is only about $210. I said from the start I've pretty much given up on being able to afford the OC model.


These are the wrong kinds of monitors to buy then given the risk involved, lack of a property warranty and inability to be easily returned and exchanged. Be rational and buy a 1080p or 25" 1440p (Acer G257HU costs 260$ in the US, and the Dell U2515H can be as cheap when on sale) monitor from a store with a hassle free return and exchange policy. Monitors like the HP 25XW can overclock to 75hz and offers better colours, far less glow, faster pixel response times, clarity (glossy coating) and only costs 160$ from Amazon.


----------



## d3ity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> These are the wrong kinds of monitors to buy then given the risk involved, lack of a property warranty and inability to be easily returned and exchanged. Be rational and buy a 1080p or 25" 1440p (Acer G257HU costs 260$ in the US, and the Dell U2515H can be as cheap when on sale) monitor from a store with a hassle free return and exchange policy. Monitors like the HP 25XW can overclock to 75hz and offers better colours, far less glow, faster pixel response times, clarity (glossy coating) and only costs 160$ from Amazon.


Very well said. If an extra $50 is really going to cripple your finances then listen to this guy.


----------



## Dradus

I'm literally stuck at 96hz... It appears my refresh rate changes aren't taking effect. Nvidia Control Panel and Windows say I'm at 110hz, but the frame skipping test and CSGO w/vsync on (added "-refresh 110" to launch options) both detect 96hz. Anyone know what the deal is? I tried increasing the refresh in 1hz increments from 96hz and it seems to only be able to apply up to 100hz. Anything over that and the above methods still just detect 100hz.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dradus*
> 
> I'm literally stuck at 96hz... It appears my refresh rate changes aren't taking effect. Nvidia Control Panel and Windows say I'm at 110hz, but the frame skipping test and CSGO w/vsync on (added "-refresh 110" to launch options) both detect 96hz. Anyone know what the deal is? I tried increasing the refresh in 1hz increments from 96hz and it seems to only be able to apply up to 100hz. Anything over that and the above methods still just detect 100hz.


Ufotest is VERY fickle when it comes to testing. Multiple times it won't detect my 75 or 96. A lot of times it just stays a 1-3 fps below the value and says sync issue. Even default 60 comes out at 58 or 59 and occasionally validates. I've tried different browsers and with and without plugins. It's very hard to get it to read properly. I really wish there was a good offline tool. I tried PixPerAn and that program registers a frame loss every second for all my monitors. I don't know what to make of it since ufotest (when it validates) shows no skipping.


----------



## Death2Consoles

If Chrome or Firefox give you issues with UFO test, try Opera. I've had the best results with Opera.


----------



## Dradus

I figured out the problem; but still no solution. Left is all the custom refreshes I made, right is after I ticked the "Hide modes that this monitor cannot display" box. Why does Windows think my monitor can only display these refresh rates?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dradus*
> 
> I figured out the problem; but still no solution. Left is all the custom refreshes I made, right is after I ticked the "Hide modes that this monitor cannot display" box. Why does Windows think my monitor can only display these refresh rates?


Use the Nvidia control panel to set up custom refresh rates.


----------



## Dradus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Use the Nvidia control panel to set up custom refresh rates.


That's what I've been using, thanks though


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> These are the wrong kinds of monitors to buy then given the risk involved, lack of a property warranty and inability to be easily returned and exchanged. Be rational and buy a 1080p or 25" 1440p (Acer G257HU costs 260$ in the US, and the Dell U2515H can be as cheap when on sale) monitor from a store with a hassle free return and exchange policy. Monitors like the HP 25XW can overclock to 75hz and offers better colours, far less glow, faster pixel response times, clarity (glossy coating) and only costs 160$ from Amazon.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3ity*
> 
> Very well said. If an extra $50 is really going to cripple your finances then listen to this guy.


Its not gonna cripple me or anything, at the moment I'm stuck living at home still due to the income, so I have minimal bills. The problem is that I want 27" 1440p, as I already have a pair of pretty good 1080p monitors.

That Acer though.. I would have preferred a 27".. but if that monitor is actually good its worth taking a look at I guess. 25" seems a weird size. Keep in mind this WILL be used for gaming.

The thing is.. at 25" a 1440p screen would scale really strangely moving things between screens, with my secondary screens being 24" 1080p screens, whereas they (windows, programs, etc,) would stay the same size, or close to, when moving between screens with a 27" 1440p.

I have this in mind as an option as well, but it isn't IPS, which I kind of wanted. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824160253

Edit: Upon reading reviews, I may go for that AOC monitor. It looks to be quite good, and honestly probably better suited for gaming than any IPS.


----------



## DrGroove

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> The only driver/multi monitor issue I've noticed is that users with multi monitors can't set a custom refresh rate in NCP with any driver which came *after* version 358.50.


Qnix user here, has anyone found a fix or work around for this? 60Hz is painful


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dradus*
> 
> I'm literally stuck at 96hz... It appears my refresh rate changes aren't taking effect. Nvidia Control Panel and Windows say I'm at 110hz, but the frame skipping test and CSGO w/vsync on (added "-refresh 110" to launch options) both detect 96hz. Anyone know what the deal is? I tried increasing the refresh in 1hz increments from 96hz and it seems to only be able to apply up to 100hz. Anything over that and the above methods still just detect 100hz.


CS GO and most source games ignore Nvidia custom resolution and overclocking. If you want proper refresh rates on those... you need CRU as mentioned quite a number of times in this thread. Folks who only advocate Nvidia refresh rate overclocking would do better being clear on all the limitations that comes with it.


----------



## Dradus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> CS GO and most source games ignore Nvidia custom resolution and overclocking. If you want proper refresh rates on those... you need CRU as mentioned quite a number of times in this thread. Folks who only advocate Nvidia refresh rate overclocking would do better being clear on all the limitations that comes with it.


I figured out the problem. I didn't apply the Nvidia Pixel Clock Patcher so I was limited to 330mhz pixel clock. Haha whoops.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dradus*
> 
> I figured out the problem. I didn't apply the Nvidia Pixel Clock Patcher so I was limited to 330mhz pixel clock. Haha whoops.


Great! Glad you got it sorted out.


----------



## strykn

Seems like my monitor is getting worse over time. I now have noticeable black light bleed on the bottom right corner (it was shipped 100% perfect and was pristine for over a month). I wonder if the cracking sounds i hear from the monitor after i turn it off at night have anything to do with it lol.


----------



## Dradus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> Great! Glad you got it sorted out.


Thanks! You were right too, though. After I applied the pixel clock patch, NvCP wouldn't apply refresh to CSGO, was stuck at 60 fps. Used CRU and it worked without a hitch.


----------



## rolfathan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strykn*
> 
> Seems like my monitor is getting worse over time. I now have noticeable black light bleed on the bottom right corner (it was shipped 100% perfect and was pristine for over a month). I wonder if the cracking sounds i hear from the monitor after i turn it off at night have anything to do with it lol.


Crackling? I'm pretty sure monitors aren't supposed to crackle.

Have you turned if off with the lights out?

Wait until night/dark. Turn off all lights aside from the monitor. Place your finger over the power button and close your eyes for a bit. Turn it off, and immediately open them and see if there are any sparks or something. (This is probably not the case, but would rather rule out weird fire hazards.)


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrGroove*
> 
> Qnix user here, has anyone found a fix or work around for this? 60Hz is painful


Just use 358.50 for the time being... Perhaps the next driver will fix it. Or just use a single monitor if you need the new drivers for some reason.


----------



## Fedex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strykn*
> 
> Seems like my monitor is getting worse over time. I now have noticeable black light bleed on the bottom right corner (it was shipped 100% perfect and was pristine for over a month). I wonder if the cracking sounds i hear from the monitor after i turn it off at night have anything to do with it lol.


Where you bought your monitor?


----------



## sdmodified

so for the buttons on the bottom, from left to right I know obviously the first is the power button, then brightness up and brightness down. After that I have no clue what the next four buttons do? Anyone care to share if they know as I can't seem to find an explanation anywhere.

Thanks!


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmodified*
> 
> so for the buttons on the bottom, from left to right I know obviously the first is the power button, then brightness up and brightness down. After that I have no clue what the next four buttons do? Anyone care to share if they know as I can't seem to find an explanation anywhere.
> 
> Thanks!


Power, Bright +, Bright -, Volume +, Volume -, and the next two are not connected to anything.

There are built in, terrible speakers that I do not wish to test but that's what the volume is about. The other two are unused on these panels but I'm assuming are used as Source and Menu buttons for other models seeing as these bezels and stands are used on many brands/models of Korean monitors. You only need to worry about power, and brightness. There's nothing wired to the last couple buttons.


----------



## d3ity

I thought the 2795 doesn't have speakers? And the 27QHD does, right?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3ity*
> 
> I thought the 2795 doesn't have speakers? And the 27QHD does, right?


Probably, I don't have the 2795, I have the 2795 QHD. If you don't have speakers then the vol +/- aren't wired to anything either..


----------



## d3ity

Yeah by 2795 I mean 2795 QHD. I don't know if there's _just_ a 2795.

So your 2795 QHD definitely does have speakers, then? (and yeah I know they're probably ****ty)

I'm just asking to know whether I need to find a cheap external speaker set in the meantime before I get my full 5.1 setup.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Power, Bright +, Bright -, Volume +, Volume -, and the next two are not connected to anything.
> 
> There are built in, terrible speakers that I do not wish to test but that's what the volume is about. The other two are unused on these panels but I'm assuming are used as Source and Menu buttons for other models seeing as these bezels and stands are used on many brands/models of Korean monitors. You only need to worry about power, and brightness. There's nothing wired to the last couple buttons.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3ity*
> 
> I thought the 2795 doesn't have speakers? And the 27QHD does, right?


I've opened the 2795QHD and it does not have any speakers. The buttons after brightness have no effect.


----------



## sdmodified

Thanks everyone!!! Now I know why i couldn't figure out what those other buttons do!! HAHA


----------



## scalarmotion

Hey, I just bought one from here and it seems to be DOA...can anyone help me with troubleshooting?

When I try to connect to it from my laptop using a HDMI-DVI adapter, nothing shows up on the screen. I've tried two other laptops, one of which instantly Blue-screened (BAD_POOL_HEADER) and the other also had no response.



http://imgur.com/ePMcP


I know it's not a problem with the DVI cable or the adapter - I've tested them with another monitor and it works just fine. Any ideas?

While we're at it, I've heard that the "Real 75Hz" versions can't be overclocked. However the monitor I got is single-input DVI Dual link and matte...will it be overclockable?


----------



## Dradus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scalarmotion*
> 
> Hey, I just bought one from here and it seems to be DOA...can anyone help me with troubleshooting?
> 
> When I try to connect to it from my laptop using a HDMI-DVI adapter, nothing shows up on the screen. I've tried two other laptops, one of which instantly Blue-screened (BAD_POOL_HEADER) and the other also had no response.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/ePMcP
> 
> 
> I know it's not a problem with the DVI cable or the adapter - I've tested them with another monitor and it works just fine. Any ideas?


Well on the ebay page for this monitor it says, "Please do not use a port converter to convert from DVI to HDMI, as this monitor doesn't support converters," so I'm guessing that actually IS the problem.
Quote:


> While we're at it, I've heard that the "Real 75Hz" versions can't be overclocked. However the monitor I got is single-input DVI Dual link and matte...will it be overclockable?


Yeah, 96hz pretty much guaranteed.


----------



## scalarmotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dradus*
> 
> Well on the ebay page for this monitor it says, "Please do not use a port converter to convert from DVI to HDMI, as this monitor doesn't support converters," so I'm guessing that actually IS the problem.
> Yeah, 96hz pretty much guaranteed.


Dang...I wanted to try out the monitor before the last parts of my new build arrive (of all things, the SSD and RAM, so I can't really do anything until then), guess I'll have to wait a little longer. Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## Dradus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scalarmotion*
> 
> Dang...I wanted to try out the monitor before the last parts of my new build arrive (of all things, the SSD and RAM, so I can't really do anything until then), guess I'll have to wait a little longer. Thanks for the heads up.


At least you know it's not because the monitor is bricked man!


----------



## LoneWolf121188

Does Crossover (or anyone else) make a good overclockable IPS display in 30"? 1440p or 4k is fine, it just seems like your options are either 27" or 32", and I'd like something in the middle...


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LoneWolf121188*
> 
> Does Crossover (or anyone else) make a good overclockable IPS display in 30"? 1440p or 4k is fine, it just seems like your options are either 27" or 32", and I'd like something in the middle...


They use PLS panels which have far better colours than TN and could be considered close to IPS iirc


----------



## Fedex

Hello guys, 3 days ago I bought a monitor from a dream-seller on ebay. Today it was shipped to me. Here's a link to what I bought http://www.ebay.com/itm/221708397727?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT by the way i live in Russia, and now the product page says : "Do not send the goods to the country : Russia "


----------



## rolfathan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fedex*
> 
> Hello guys, 3 days ago I bought a monitor from a dream-seller on ebay. Today it was shipped to me. Here's a link to what I bought http://www.ebay.com/itm/221708397727?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT by the way i live in Russia, and now the product page says : "Do not send the goods to the country : Russia "


Does this mean you are the last to ever receive it in Russia? Or are they not shipping it to you?


----------



## Fedex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolfathan*
> 
> Does this mean you are the last to ever receive it in Russia? Or are they not shipping it to you?


Yeah it seems that I'm the last one who was able to buy it from Russia


----------



## d3ity

Hey folks, my monitor just arrived yesterday. So I wanted to put my experience so far out there for those curious.

Ordered the "Perfect Pixel" from green-sum and...... it arrived with 1 dead pixel :'( But honestly at this resolution I never notice it unless I'm actively looking for it.

Immediately overclocked without issue to 96 Hz using Pixel Clock Patcher and CRU. Then optimistically tried 110 Hz, but got artifacting. Backed down to 105 and it's stable there. And yes, the monitor is beautiful, especially coming from my 21.5" 1080p TN Acer.

For reference it's running off an ASUS 980 with this DVI cable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NJ0S1W


----------



## rolfathan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3ity*
> 
> it arrived with 1 dead pixel


May I ask where it is on the monitor? You try to see if it was just a "stuck" pixel that you could get out?


----------



## d3ity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolfathan*
> 
> May I ask where it is on the monitor? You try to see if it was just a "stuck" pixel that you could get out?


Lower right corner, about 4 inches from the edge. It's black, so it seems dead and not "stuck," and yeah I tried the stuck pixel fixer but it didn't work.

It's ok, though. Like I said I don't even notice it during normal use.


----------



## 175pi

Is anyone running a setup with 3 of these?
I've currently got 1 that is amazing and am debating about putting a pair of 1080p monitors or another set of these (one every couple of months due to cost).
I'd probably only game on the center monitor until video card tech gets faster and cheaper (currently using a 970)


----------



## zEoRaptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *175pi*
> 
> Is anyone running a setup with 3 of these?
> I've currently got 1 that is amazing and am debating about putting a pair of 1080p monitors or another set of these (one every couple of months due to cost).
> I'd probably only game on the center monitor until video card tech gets faster and cheaper (currently using a 970)


There isn't a single card with three dual link dvi ports, so you'd need an SLI or crossfire setup to do this. I'd also research whether overclocking monitors while using sli or crossfire is possible before investing the money in it.


----------



## xormac

Hey guys,

I'm new to the forum and would just like to say thanks to every single one contributing to this forum and especially this thread.

I read pages and pages full of replies on this thread and would just like to ask the following two questions:

1. As dream-seller does not ship to my country, who else is the best to buy from (perhaps someone can provide a link)?
2. Has anyone tried using lightboost on these monitors, does it support it, i.e. will lightboost work on these?

Thanks a million in advance...


----------



## d3ity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xormac*
> 
> 1. As dream-seller does not ship to my country, who else is the best to buy from (perhaps someone can provide a link)?


It would help to tell us your country


----------



## xormac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3ity*
> 
> It would help to tell us your country


Apologies... South Africa.

Does anyone have an indication of whether it's required to look for a pixel perfect listing in order to get a monitor without any dead/stuck pixels?


----------



## d3ity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xormac*
> 
> Apologies... South Africa.
> 
> Does anyone have an indication of whether it's required to look for a pixel perfect listing in order to get a monitor without any dead/stuck pixels?


The "perfect pixel" listings are generally considered to be meaningless. It's just a way for them to charge a few extra dollars.

For example I bought the green-sum perfect pixel and got a dead pixel.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3ity*
> 
> The "perfect pixel" listings are generally considered to be meaningless. It's just a way for them to charge a few extra dollars.
> 
> For example I bought the green-sum perfect pixel and got a dead pixel.


If you read the policy, perfect pixel means something along the lines of five or less dead pixels in total, none of which are in the center of the screen or in a group, and that only a black pixel is considered to be "dead" whereas "stuck" pixels do not count. A non-perfect pixel allows up to twenty-five dead pixels before it warrants a return. So it is actually a lit bit of protection for those willing to spend an extra couple of bucks, I only paid $10 USD more for both of my perfect pixel monitors, one is a QNIX and the other a Crossover and both have zero dead pixels.


----------



## d3ity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> If you read the policy, perfect pixel means something along the lines of five or less dead pixels in total, none of which are in the center of the screen or in a group, and that only a black pixel is considered to be "dead" whereas "stuck" pixels do not count. A non-perfect pixel allows up to twenty-five dead pixels before it warrants a return. So it is actually a lit bit of protection for those willing to spend an extra couple of bucks, I only paid $10 USD more for both of my perfect pixel monitors, one is a QNIX and the other a Crossover and both have zero dead pixels.


I read the policy before I bought. green-sum's definition of perfect pixel is 0-1, not 0-5, so technically mine was within the acceptable amount. It's just good to know ahead of time that perfect doesn't necessarily mean perfect.


----------



## xormac

Any success on enabling LightBoost?


----------



## Xaeos

Has anyone compared the monitor being discussed in the thread here to...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-QH2711-BLACK-LABEL-SE-27-LED-2560x1440-AH-IPS-QHD-Computer-Monitor-/141494822771?hash=item20f1bfa773 ? What differences might there be between the two? Reviews of the above, especially the modern version listed there seem relatively sparse and the listing itself doesn't mention things like flickerfree/low blue light/PWM dimming or not. The Yamakasi does claim to be 10 bit and have a very bright backlight but maybe neither of those things are meaningful.

Likewise, has anyone compared this CrossOver (or Yamakasi) to this Monoprice? https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13808 - Sadly it doesn't list some particulars that I'd like to know and reviews that compare that exact model to modern Korean ones and others in price range have been hard to come by as well; maybe others have already weighed the options and have decided against it for some reason or another. Thanks.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xaeos*
> 
> Has anyone compared the monitor being discussed in the thread here to...
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-QH2711-BLACK-LABEL-SE-27-LED-2560x1440-AH-IPS-QHD-Computer-Monitor-/141494822771?hash=item20f1bfa773 ? What differences might there be between the two? Reviews of the above, especially the modern version listed there seem relatively sparse and the listing itself doesn't mention things like flickerfree/low blue light/PWM dimming or not. The Yamakasi does claim to be 10 bit and have a very bright backlight but maybe neither of those things are meaningful.
> 
> Likewise, has anyone compared this CrossOver (or Yamakasi) to this Monoprice? https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13808 - Sadly it doesn't list some particulars that I'd like to know and reviews that compare that exact model to modern Korean ones and others in price range have been hard to come by as well; maybe others have already weighed the options and have decided against it for some reason or another. Thanks.


The main attraction of the crossover 2795qhd is that its overclockable. The ones you list are not.


----------



## scalarmotion

Finally finished my build and managed to test my Crossover, ez 96hz overclock.


http://imgur.com/dYn8O

 so you know what to expect.

Any tips on removing the glass stem of the original stand? It really bugs me...


----------



## adamr94

You have to remove the bezel, lift up the panel, then unscrew two screws, and out the base comes.


----------



## Tim Drake

Think I could sand and polish the bezels?


----------



## TheAssimilator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zEoRaptor*
> 
> There isn't a single card with three dual link dvi ports...


GTX 690 would like to have a word with you.


----------



## d3ity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAssimilator*
> 
> GTX 690 would like to have a word with you.


Dammit he's right!


----------



## kluu

Is this Link Depot DVI-D sufficient ?


----------



## Twiffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fedex*
> 
> Hello guys, 3 days ago I bought a monitor from a dream-seller on ebay. Today it was shipped to me. Here's a link to what I bought http://www.ebay.com/itm/221708397727?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT by the way i live in Russia, and now the product page says : "Do not send the goods to the country : Russia "


Same happened to me, after I bought it and they shipped it. I think it's due to the shipping fees. (living in Finland)

I have had mine for about 2 months now or so, and it's been working just fine on 96hz . Wondering if I should try and overclock it to 120hz. Had 0 dead pixels as well. At least I couldn't spot any dead ones. Without any kind of color profiles, the colors are already amazing. Due to DHL inspecting everything that comes from outside of EU I had to pay 80 euros extra, but I don't mind it since the monitor's been working really great.


----------



## rolfathan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xaeos*
> 
> Has anyone compared the monitor being discussed in the thread here to...
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-QH2711-BLACK-LABEL-SE-27-LED-2560x1440-AH-IPS-QHD-Computer-Monitor-/141494822771?hash=item20f1bfa773 ? What differences might there be between the two? Reviews of the above, especially the modern version listed there seem relatively sparse and the listing itself doesn't mention things like flickerfree/low blue light/PWM dimming or not. The Yamakasi does claim to be 10 bit and have a very bright backlight but maybe neither of those things are meaningful.
> 
> Likewise, has anyone compared this CrossOver (or Yamakasi) to this Monoprice? https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13808 - Sadly it doesn't list some particulars that I'd like to know and reviews that compare that exact model to modern Korean ones and others in price range have been hard to come by as well; maybe others have already weighed the options and have decided against it for some reason or another. Thanks.


The only monitor I've put some real thought into aside from this Crossover 2795 is the Atron Vision monitor, which recently sprung up. (Maybe a little over a month old now.)

It seems to have all the good basics, plus overclocking. It's the generic korean IPS, but based on, and rebranded by a seller located in California USA.

Claims no flickering, AHVA, overclockable, VESA mount (with that stupid nub from the stand that all these monitors seem to have stuck in them for some stupid reason)
It seems to have a lot of similarities to the 2560x1440 gaming monitors from Asus and Acer (Even the optional added onscreen crosshairs)

I found some reviews of it online. There are people claiming it skips frames the second you go over 60hz, but they claim that this is a test that they did on their own monitor.






Joanne Tech Lover has two videos on it, both a 



 and a 



 where it seems implied that she went above 120hz. (Though, no specific tests for frame skipping)

Tech YES City is the one with a 



 claiming that it frameskips. It also looks like it has some awful backlight bleed, which is a sentiment shared by the review that I found on newegg, which also claimed frame skipping.

But so far, I can only find reviews on the new Monoprice monitor... on monoprice... with not many particular insights as to how it performs. Seems to just be "I love it" or "It's got some design flaw" for pretty much all the reviews. At $250 I'm very curious. Looks like the colors might be jacked up (few complaints, with one citing reds as being too bright, even when calibrated), ghosting (kind of to be expected, but may be worse than typical) and a user reported a 7ms response. So far, I feel like maybe people doing dual-monitor setups could get the crossover as their primary (gaming) and get the Monoprice as a lower budget "secondary" monitor.


----------



## kluu

Wow, ordered one on Monday night and just arrived Wednesday morning. How the hell did it get here so fast?

This screen is huge ! Haven't noticed any dead pixels.

Should have done my research a bit harder.. Did not realize its completely non adjustable. :


----------



## rolfathan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kluu*
> 
> Wow, ordered one on Monday night and just arrived Wednesday morning. How the hell did it get here so fast?
> 
> This screen is huge ! Haven't noticed any dead pixels.
> 
> Should have done my research a bit harder.. Did not realize its completely non adjustable. :


What aspect, color or the base? It's standard VESA mount, if you want to get a better stand. I actually just purchased two monitor arms, and they should be arriving today.

If it's color, you can load ICC profiles, and adjust colors in your Nvidia or AMD control panels. People have gotten some pretty damn accurate colors out of these. Not as good as you could with a Dell Ultrasharp, but still leaps and bounds better than your standard TN panel.


----------



## kluu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolfathan*
> 
> What aspect, color or the base? It's standard VESA mount, if you want to get a better stand. I actually just purchased two monitor arms, and they should be arriving today.
> 
> If it's color, you can load ICC profiles, and adjust colors in your Nvidia or AMD control panels. People have gotten some pretty damn accurate colors out of these. Not as good as you could with a Dell Ultrasharp, but still leaps and bounds better than your standard TN panel.


Sorry I'm not sure what you're asking. I'm a little new to this monitor stuff! Aspect ratio? Colors are nice =).

Edit: Ohhh I see what you're saying! I was talking about the base. ATM i have to look up at the monitor, and the monitor is facing upwards sooooo...

This is my first time overclocking a monitor. I'm not sure if I'm doing it right. I downloaded CRU and the ATI driver thing.

I added some detailed resolutions and used 96hz, 110hz. 120hz I haven't tried.120hz just yet. .

I'm not sure if I need to check the boxes under 'Established resolutions' so I left those unchecked.

Then I went to Screen Resolutions in windows and changes the Hz there. I thought changing the hz in CRU was enough but apparently you need to do it on windows also! As a newb, it would have be nice if it was mentioned in the OC guide.

So far 96hz is good. 110hz seems good as well. If anyone can help me confirm these are working, please tell me!

Edit: So I tried 120hz and right off t he bat there were some colored lines across the middle of my screen for a second but it went away. I did the frame skipping test and it says Valid but the lines between the boxes are colored purple/blue/pinkish

Edit: Got some light bleed at the bottom


----------



## Hahajiang

So I ordered the 2795 pixel perfect version from greensum. It arrived yesterday. I checked briefly, zero dead pixel, feel a little bright in black full screen, maybe back light bleeding. Overclocked to 96hz, very stable, 110hz with rare twitching in white background, but many many horizontal lines in 120hz.

So far i like it, I have several questions though.
1 see the picture, in person, i can only feel lower left corner, but it shows blue and red hint in upper corners through camera. (Cant tell with bare eyes). Is this normal BLB and fixable?
2 is there a color profile or monitor driver for this model?
3 if overclocked to 96hz, how long will it survive?

Thank this thread and all the discussion. I was planning to buy the qx2710 matte but was convinced to spend the extra tosvoid the lottery of older model.

CAM01101.jpg 6336k .jpg file


CAM01099.jpg 2388k .jpg file


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hahajiang*
> 
> So I ordered the 2795 pixel perfect version from greensum. It arrived yesterday. I checked briefly, zero dead pixel, feel a little bright in black full screen, maybe back light bleeding. Overclocked to 96hz, very stable, 110hz with rare twitching in white background, but many many horizontal lines in 120hz.
> 
> So far i like it, I have several questions though.
> 1 see the picture, in person, i can only feel lower left corner, but it shows blue and red hint in upper corners through camera. (Cant tell with bare eyes). Is this normal BLB and fixable?
> 2 is there a color profile or monitor driver for this model?
> 3 if overclocked to 96hz, how long will it survive?
> 
> Thank this thread and all the discussion. I was planning to buy the qx2710 matte but was convinced to spend the extra tosvoid the lottery of older model.


Insert the image instead of attaching so we don't need to download it ^^

1. The BLB is normal and slightly exaggerated when viewed through a camera.

2. There is a color profile. Someone will link it when they're done with christmas and check this thread. I don't know where they are in the thread. Did you check the first post?

3. Who knows







120hz is rare to manage. 110 is not too uncommon, and 96 is pretty stable and achievable. This monitor hasn't been here long enough for a good comparison of lifespan.


----------



## d3ity

Does OCing a monitor actually reduce its lifespan? I feel like if it can display a certain framerate, whether it's 60, 90, or 120 Hz, it shouldn't really impact the hardware any differently.


----------



## strykn

If I upgrade to windows 10, will i screw my self and lose 110hz overclocking ability? Using an AMD r9 290..


----------



## projenk

Hey guys,
any of you aware of the crossover 279K? is it any good? Doeas anybody got pictures? I'd like to buy it


----------



## Godsfist

is this the correct http://www.ebay.com/itm/221708397727?rmvSB=true&rmvSB=true
site`? or if it any other better site?
and this is possible to clock and stuff like that?

i have been thinking of getting a ips 144hz 27 inch monitor..for a while,¨best would be with freesync..
but yeah that cost alot, so i guess this is the "best" solution atm... 96-110 hz is good for gaming? or should i consider getting a 120+ atleast?

and is the other korea monitors better or worst then this?

oh yeall, first post in this forum, and prolly not the last! ;D


----------



## d3ity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Godsfist*
> 
> is this the correct http://www.ebay.com/itm/221708397727?rmvSB=true&rmvSB=true
> site`? or if it any other better site?
> and this is possible to clock and stuff like that?
> 
> i have been thinking of getting a ips 144hz 27 inch monitor..for a while,¨best would be with freesync..
> but yeah that cost alot, so i guess this is the "best" solution atm... 96-110 hz is good for gaming? or should i consider getting a 120+ atleast?
> 
> and is the other korea monitors better or worst then this?
> 
> oh yeall, first post in this forum, and prolly not the last! ;D


Yes, that's the right monitor. dream-seller actually has a pretty good price for it right now.

And yes again, to my knowledge, this is the best OC-able WQHD Korean monitor available right now.


----------



## Godsfist

-delete-


----------



## Godsfist

-delete-


----------



## matt4765

Hello, I am currently using this monitor and it's great, I just have one question about the standby/sleep mode. When ever I turn off/sleep my PC the 2795's LED and black-light blink, shown here. This isn't a big deal right now, but I would like to wall mount it high on the wall, and I would not be able to reach it to manually turn it off. I contacted green-sum, the seller, and was told that this is normal and there is nothing that can be done to change it. I just wanted to know if this happened to your guys' monitors and if it was indeed normal, as well as any possible solutions.

BTW I am using the monitor (overclocked to 100Hz) with and nVidia GTX 970 graphics card.

Thank you!


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matt4765*
> 
> Hello, I am currently using this monitor and it's great, I just have one question about the standby/sleep mode. When ever I turn off/sleep my PC the 2795's LED and black-light blink, shown here. This isn't a big deal right now, but I would like to wall mount it high on the wall, and I would not be able to reach it to manually turn it off. I contacted green-sum, the seller, and was told that this is normal and there is nothing that can be done to change it. I just wanted to know if this happened to your guys' monitors and if it was indeed normal, as well as any possible solutions.
> 
> BTW I am using the monitor (overclocked to 100Hz) with and nVidia GTX 970 graphics card.
> 
> Thank you!


Definitely not normal.


----------



## matt4765

Hmm.. Thanks for that information. The monitor is still within the one-year warranty time frame, however I don't know if I will be able to get a replacement as the seller repeatedly told me that, according to the manufacturer, there is no way to change what the monitor does when it is not receiving any signal. Can anyone else confirm that is not normal for the monitor? I'd like to have as much support as possible before I push for a replacement. Also, does anyone have an idea to what is causing this?

Thanks again!


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matt4765*
> 
> Hmm.. Thanks for that information. The monitor is still within the one-year warranty time frame, however I don't know if I will be able to get a replacement as the seller repeatedly told me that, according to the manufacturer, there is no way to change what the monitor does when it is not receiving any signal. Can anyone else confirm that is not normal for the monitor? I'd like to have as much support as possible before I push for a replacement. Also, does anyone have an idea to what is causing this?
> 
> Thanks again!


What happens when you unplug the DVI cable? Still blue LED or does it turn red?


----------



## matt4765

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rissie*
> 
> What happens when you unplug the DVI cable? Still blue LED or does it turn red?


Just tested it, and when unplugging the cable while the monitor is on (blue LED and is use) the light will go to red and the flashing problem won't occur. However, if I unplug the cable while the monitor is already blinking, it will continue to do so.

After unplugging/reconnecting the monitor while it was on, the blinking seemed to stop when the PC shutdown/slept!







I will test it more to see if it will stay in standby correctly, but now everything looks pretty good.

I can recreate the blinking by simply turning the monitor off then on again when the computer is either on or off/sleeping (could somebody test this?), and the blinking will occur when the monitor goes into standby mode (if not already there) and it won't stop until I disconnect/reconnect the monitor while it is powered on and in use (blue LED). It seems that as long as I don't touch the power button, the monitor will standby correctly!

Thanks guys! Hope everything stays working correctly.

EDIT: Unfortunately it seems like the good news from before wasn't actually accurate







.. Now the monitor is back to its blinking ways, however I can sometimes stop it from blinking by disconnecting/reconnecting the DVI-D cable, but the effect wears off after a couple of hours or sooner. Overall, it is really quite finicky, sometimes it will sleep (after removing/reinserting the cable), sometimes it won't, etc. Also, now sometimes when unplugging the DVI-D cable when the monitor is in use (blue LED) it will not go red but blink..so I really don't know what causes it at this point.

I have tried a couple of different dual link DVI-D cables and all have has this problem, but if there is a specific one that you recommend I'd be interested in trying it.


----------



## Fedex

Same **** here, bro. Bought mine on ebay from dream-seller. Today I want to write to him about a partial refund, given that I bought it for $ 302.90 but now it costs $ 289.00, I plan to return at least $ 20 because here in Russia I'm cold and I'm starving .


----------



## Godsfist

bought it now! long delivery time thou,..


----------



## matt4765

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fedex*
> 
> Same **** here, bro. Bought mine on ebay from dream-seller. Today I want to write to him about a partial refund, given that I bought it for $ 302.90 but now it costs $ 289.00, I plan to return at least $ 20 because here in Russia I'm cold and I'm starving .


Sucks that it's happening to you too. Weird that some of the monitors have do this and others don't. Mine is the monitor that just has the smiling face at the bottom, doesn't say Crossover like in the pictures.

Good luck on the partial refund, I hope there is a fix for the sleep issue!


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *projenk*
> 
> Hey guys,
> any of you aware of the crossover 279K? is it any good? Doeas anybody got pictures? I'd like to buy it


Do you have a link? searching for "crossover 279K" gives me your post as top result.


----------



## projenk

Hi BadRobot,
thnk ou for the reply. I also opened a new thread about it. the only link I have is this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/CROSSOVER-289K-UHD-28-LED-HDMI-2-0-3840x2160-4K-60Hz-Monitor-Remote/331704507583?hlpht=true&ops=true&viphx=1&_trksid=p5197.c100068.m2280&_trkparms=ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140211130857%26meid%3Da26db3c3f63d4e87aa7f2cc7c0164581%26pid%3D100068%26clkid%3D2268542826177649025&_qi=RTM2063723
I think it is the final version of the 288k.
I have some questions about it as all the korean monitor with those specs are around the 300£, and this is actually the more stylish among those.


----------



## Godsfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Do you have a link? searching for "crossover 279K" gives me your post as top result.


i bought from this seller

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221708397727?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *projenk*
> 
> Hi BadRobot,
> thnk ou for the reply. I also opened a new thread about it. the only link I have is this
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/CROSSOVER-289K-UHD-28-LED-HDMI-2-0-3840x2160-4K-60Hz-Monitor-Remote/331704507583?hlpht=true&ops=true&viphx=1&_trksid=p5197.c100068.m2280&_trkparms=ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140211130857%26meid%3Da26db3c3f63d4e87aa7f2cc7c0164581%26pid%3D100068%26clkid%3D2268542826177649025&_qi=RTM2063723
> I think it is the final version of the 288k.
> I have some questions about it as all the korean monitor with those specs are around the 300£, and this is actually the more stylish among those.


The 288K and 289K are both UHD monitors and have HDMI and DP input. Multi-input monitors are rarely overclockable. The 2795QHD only has DVI-D input.

edit: lol, what is "dual crosshair for FPS games"? xD it's only slightly cheaper than if I buy a UHD monitor locally.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Godsfist*
> 
> i bought from this seller
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/221708397727?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


I bought mine from Dream-seller too and that is the same monitor this thread is about.


----------



## projenk

So nobody in this forum ever tried it? I am really thinking of getting it, at that price I haven't seen any 4K monitor.

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *projenk*
> 
> So nobody in this forum ever tried it? I am really thinking of getting it, at that price I haven't seen any 4K monitor.
> 
> Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


I think it's pretty new right? Are there no overclock.net threads about it? I don't think you'll find anyone here who's tried because it's mostly a discussion for the 2795QHD and occasionally the Qnix/X-star posts that ask advice.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *projenk*
> 
> So nobody in this forum ever tried it? I am really thinking of getting it, at that price I haven't seen any 4K monitor.


Why would anyone want to buy a 60hz TN panel with dull and uneven colours, poor viewing angles and a hazy matte coating which negates the sharpness benefits 4k can offer? 4k does not magically improve gaming either due to 60hz LCD sample and hold blur, but it can slightly improve the sharpness of static (still) content. 28" 4k text is minuscule and often looks worse than 27" 1440p monitors by the time it is upscaled to legible sizes.


----------



## projenk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Why would anyone want to buy a 60hz TN panel with dull and uneven colours, poor viewing angles and a hazy matte coating which negates the sharpness benefits 4k can offer? 4k does not magically improve gaming either due to 60hz LCD sample and hold blur, but it can slightly improve the sharpness of static (still) content. 28" 4k text is minuscule and often looks worse than 27" 1440p monitors by the time it is upscaled to legible sizes.


Hi thank you for the reply.
What would you suggest me then? I am looking for UHD or QHD, due to space I can't get over 28''. And I am looking for something stylish


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *projenk*
> 
> Hi thank you for the reply.
> What would you suggest me then? I am looking for UHD or QHD, due to space I can't get over 28''. And I am looking for something stylish


I'm searching locally here and if you want a higher refresh rate (75-144) then 2560x1440 (QHD) is what you want. If you need a higher resolution, then UHD is what you want. But since you are lacking space and can't go over 28", I advise QHD because the UHD is much better at more than 28" and also not yet available at higher refresh rates without INSANE prices.

Do you have an AMD or Nvidia card? I have AMD so I'm looking into 1440p 144Hz freesync monitors. I have a R9 290 card and use my monitors mainly for gaming so 4K is not a good idea if I want good performance too.


----------



## projenk

Hi I gave a gtx 970. Full rig is in the profile (can't figure out how to put it in signature). I could possibly go to 32''. Any specific suggestions? I want to spend about £350

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


----------



## rolfathan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *projenk*
> 
> Hi I gave a gtx 970. Full rig is in the profile (can't figure out how to put it in signature). I could possibly go to 32''. Any specific suggestions? I want to spend about £350
> 
> Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


Why don't you look at... the monitor... that this thread... was made for?


----------



## projenk

Because.... It is.. ugly









Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


----------



## d3ity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *projenk*
> 
> Because.... It is.. ugly


What's ugly? The 2795 QHD? I don't know what you're talking about, it's a beautiful monitor (as in, it's an awesome display). If you're referring to the glossy bezel that's one of the last things you should be concerned about when shopping for a monitor. Besides, if it's really a problem for you the bezel can be replaced or painted.


----------



## projenk

I was looking for something with a thin bezel TBH.... Maybe you could send a picture of your monitor.. I have a nice setup here and I would hate to look at something that I don't like. I don't mind a glossy bezel, but from what I have seen this bezel is quite big

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


----------



## Malinkadink

Like some others in the community i've absolutely had it with trying to secure a nice 144hz AHVA gsync panel, been using a VG248QE for several years now and its time to move up, but before i do that i have a few questions.

1) The matte coating on this monitor, is it relatively light, or thicker with some graininess noticeable on white/lighter backgrounds?

2) Am i almost guaranteed to at least hit a 96hz overclock?

3) Is there any deterioration in the colors/gamma/contrast when overclocking? This Asus i use becomes noticeably washed out when going from 60hz to 144hz and calibrating helped, but a proper calibration at 60hz and 144hz is still night and day difference at least to me. I would hope this panel doesn't behave similarly.

4) Is there an OSD for me to adjust RGB values or can i only control the brightness therefore leaving it all to my colormunki display to create a proper calibration?

5) Lastly how bad is the IPS glow and or backlight bleeding? Can the latter be helped with some adjustments to relieve any stress on the panel from the enclosure?


----------



## d3ity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *projenk*
> 
> I was looking for something with a thin bezel TBH.... Maybe you could send a picture of your monitor.. I have a nice setup here and I would hate to look at something that I don't like. I don't mind a glossy bezel, but from what I have seen this bezel is quite big


https://i.imgur.com/eeuZgCQ.jpg

the bezel is perfectly fine. not the thinnest one out there but i've also never looked at it and thought _that's such a wide bezel!_ it's normal.


----------



## d3ity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> Like some others in the community i've absolutely had it with trying to secure a nice 144hz AHVA gsync panel, been using a VG248QE for several years now and its time to move up, but before i do that i have a few questions.
> 
> 1) The matte coating on this monitor, is it relatively light, or thicker with some graininess noticeable on white/lighter backgrounds?
> 
> 2) Am i almost guaranteed to at least hit a 96hz overclock?
> 
> 3) Is there any deterioration in the colors/gamma/contrast when overclocking? This Asus i use becomes noticeably washed out when going from 60hz to 144hz and calibrating helped, but a proper calibration at 60hz and 144hz is still night and day difference at least to me. I would hope this panel doesn't behave similarly.
> 
> 4) Is there an OSD for me to adjust RGB values or can i only control the brightness therefore leaving it all to my colormunki display to create a proper calibration?
> 
> 5) Lastly how bad is the IPS glow and or backlight bleeding? Can the latter be helped with some adjustments to relieve any stress on the panel from the enclosure?


I'm not an expert but I'll answer as best I can based on my few weeks of experience having this monitor so far.

It's a pretty light coating. Not too thick to meaningfully smudge or distort colors, and enough to eliminate any mirror effect under almost all lighting conditions. If the monitor is perfect black and I have a light source directly behind me i'll notice it, but that's a very rare situation.
Yes. I get 96 Hz perfectly fine, 110 with some artifacting, and 100-105 is nice and stable. I haven't heard of anyone buying this exact model and not getting 96 Hz (assuming you're not doing something dumb like trying to use a port converter or whatever).
Not that I've noticed, but I'm not a color expert. I just went with default calibration, which seems nice.
No OSD at all. The only control other than power is the 2 brightness buttons (up and down). All adjusting must be done from your OS/GPU software.
I haven't noticed any glow or backlight bleed on mine.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> Like some others in the community i've absolutely had it with trying to secure a nice 144hz AHVA gsync panel, been using a VG248QE for several years now and its time to move up, but before i do that i have a few questions.
> 
> 1) The matte coating on this monitor, is it relatively light, or thicker with some graininess noticeable on white/lighter backgrounds?
> 
> 2) Am i almost guaranteed to at least hit a 96hz overclock?
> 
> 3) Is there any deterioration in the colors/gamma/contrast when overclocking? This Asus i use becomes noticeably washed out when going from 60hz to 144hz and calibrating helped, but a proper calibration at 60hz and 144hz is still night and day difference at least to me. I would hope this panel doesn't behave similarly.
> 
> 4) Is there an OSD for me to adjust RGB values or can i only control the brightness therefore leaving it all to my colormunki display to create a proper calibration?
> 
> 5) Lastly how bad is the IPS glow and or backlight bleeding? Can the latter be helped with some adjustments to relieve any stress on the panel from the enclosure?


I feel your pain with the disappointing releases of ALL the AUOptronics 1440p/IPS 144Hz-165hz GSync panels!








I don't actually own the 2795 but I helped get this thread going way back when MTuba aka NCX enlightened us about this monitor appx 8mos ago as a substitute for the "fall-off" in quality of the QNIX's (PWM) and the unavailability of the iconic Cat2B. The closet thing I have is the Overlord, a USA "remodel" of the Cat2B, an overclockable 1440p/IPS LG panel but it's a glossy.

1/5) The matte coating doesn't seem to be as heavy as the QNIX matte and certainly nothing like the Swift PG278. But it is still a Matte panel and sadly doesn't come in a Glossy. It is probably very similar to the Acer's 270/271's BUT without the BLB and Glow problems those have exhibited. 1 or 2 users have disassembled their panels to address the rare/minor BLB but it isn't nearly as popular as with the QNIX procedure. Finally I do notice slightly more "glow" with my LG's vs Samsung PLS but nothing like I've seen in the Acer/Asus 144Hz threads. YMMV









2) Out of ALL the owners here, there has only been one unit that didn't reach 96Hz, some will do 110Hz even with Std timings but it is quite "rare" to see them reach 120Hz unlike the QNIX's.

3) When overclocking there is No gama shift (increase/diming) like you see with the QNIX's requiring custom ICC profiles. The out-of-box calibration and colors seems to be very good as even guys with calibrators didn't see a huge improvement with real calibration tools/software.

4) No OSD or scaler but that results in a very low lag responsive monitor ... pixels response is pretty good, not the best but not that far off from the AUOptronics either.

Recently these could be had for as little as $289 a very fair deal, maybe the best kept secret around if your frustrated with the AUOptronics (like me and you) and just don't want to deal with a TN's panel drawbacks. I think you'd be quite happy with this panel to hold you over until OLED breaks ... saw some laptops with OLED already at this years CES, and/or I just read AMD's Polaris GPU's for 2nd/3rd QTR this year are confirmed with DP1.3, Nvidia won't be far behind! I would chose green-sum over dream-seller as a supplier, better CS if need be. Hope that helps, D3ity was pretty right on also


----------



## Malinkadink

Would i be able to use a DP to DVI cable and still overclock the monitor like that? Reason i ask is if i get one of these and am content with it i will order a second to use on the side and would want to OC it as well to have both monitors match, but my GTX 970 only has 1 DVI-D but 3 DPs.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> Would i be able to use a DP to DVI cable and still overclock the monitor like that? Reason i ask is if i get one of these and am content with it i will order a second to use on the side and would want to OC it as well to have both monitors match, but my GTX 970 only has 1 DVI-D but 3 DPs.


An active Displayport adapter might work (others have used them with different Korean monitors), but they cost considerably more than non-active adapters. Make sure to check the maximum resolution of the adapters since some claim to be active but max out at 1200p.


----------



## d3ity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> Would i be able to use a DP to DVI cable and still overclock the monitor like that? Reason i ask is if i get one of these and am content with it i will order a second to use on the side and would want to OC it as well to have both monitors match, but my GTX 970 only has 1 DVI-D but 3 DPs.


As the eBay listing says, no port converters will work, including DP. It has to be direct DVI-D to DVI-D connection.


----------



## Malinkadink

Oh pardon me, i just looked up my 970 G1 model on newegg and it has Dual Link DVI-D and Dual Link DVI-I, they support the same bandwidth and maximum resolutions, just that DVI-I combines digital and analog in the same connector but since it's dual link i should be good to go and avoid any adapter use i assume.


----------



## d3ity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> Oh pardon me, i just looked up my 970 G1 model on newegg and it has Dual Link DVI-D and Dual Link DVI-I, they support the same bandwidth and maximum resolutions, just that DVI-I combines digital and analog in the same connector but since it's dual link i should be good to go and avoid any adapter use i assume.


Yup. I used to own the Gigabyte G1 970. Great card. You'll be able to connect 2 of these Crossovers to it.


----------



## kluu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3ity*
> 
> As the eBay listing says, no port converters will work, including DP. It has to be direct DVI-D to DVI-D connection.


To add on to this..

You may have to use only the DVI-D cable it comes with also. I bought a Link Depot DVI-D cable from newegg and it doesn't work. =[

The monoprice (28AWG?) one may work though. I think I've seen some people in this thread use it.


----------



## rccsr

Hey everyone! I just recieved my 2795. Purchased from green-sum for $299

dead pixels: I haven't noticed any dead or stuck pixels. (ignorance is bliss for me). I won't be looking for them

Overclock: at least 105, with 110 being unusable.

colors: very pretty

color accuracy: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

There is a sticker on the top of the bezel, and I contacted my Korean friend who said that it reads... "Warning: If the protective plastic is removed from this product, any refunds or exchanges will be invalid"

I have a question. "Why are people buying different DVI cables?"


----------



## d3ity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kluu*
> 
> To add on to this..
> 
> You may have to use only the DVI-D cable it comes with also. I bought a Link Depot DVI-D cable from newegg and it doesn't work. =[
> 
> The monoprice (28AWG?) one may work though. I think I've seen some people in this thread use it.


That's strange. So many people here recommend the Link Depot cable on Newegg. Personally I bought this cable also on recommendation and it's been working perfectly: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007NJ0S1W


----------



## Malinkadink

Yeah i was gonna ask about the cable as well, im moments away from pulling the trigger on this, fingers crossed i dont get a dead pixel and if i do let it be at the edge somewhere









Does buying a nicer cable give a slightly higher OC, say compared to the one they provide you get 105hz and with one of these recommended ones you could eek out 110hz and be stable? Just wondering if the investment is necessary/worth it, i would buy a couple cables if it meant a nicer OC for sure even if only a few hz.

EDIT: Wanted to add one more thing, since im stepping down from 1ms 144hz TN has anyone else done the same to one of these monitors, and how was the experience? I know it will be noticeable but just how much i'm not sure. I've taken down my monitor to 96-110hz and played around with those numbers and i still find the usage experience very tolerable, but i need to consider that the pixels respond a lot quicker on this TN than they will on the IPS panel. I probably shouldn't worry too much about it as the move to 1440p and the huge leap in image quality should more than makeup for a slightly slower panel. Can't be as disastrous as a 60hz AMVA panel


----------



## d3ity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> Yeah i was gonna ask about the cable as well, im moments away from pulling the trigger on this, fingers crossed i dont get a dead pixel and if i do let it be at the edge somewhere
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does buying a nicer cable give a slightly higher OC, say compared to the one they provide you get 105hz and with one of these recommended ones you could eek out 110hz and be stable? Just wondering if the investment is necessary/worth it, i would buy a couple cables if it meant a nicer OC for sure even if only a few hz.


Honestly my guess would be that the cable doesn't actually matter. Yeah, I bought a nice cable, but more as a "why the hell not, nice monitor, might as well have a nice cable" thing, rather than expecting it to make a difference.

Remember this is a _digital_ signal going through the cable (that's what the D in DVI stands for). Which means the data will either reach the monitor or it won't. It's not prone to interference like VGA cables, which are analog, and other analog devices. Buying a better DVI cable and expecting it to make a difference is like the idiots who buy a $1,000 HDMI cable and expect it to make your TV picture better (hilarious reviews on that, by the way).

That's my best guess and if someone has evidence (not anecdotal experience) otherwise I'd really love to hear it.


----------



## rissie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3ity*
> 
> Honestly my guess would be that the cable doesn't actually matter. Yeah, I bought a nice cable, but more as a "why the hell not, nice monitor, might as well have a nice cable" thing, rather than expecting it to make a difference.
> 
> Remember this is a _digital_ signal going through the cable (that's what the D in DVI stands for). Which means the data will either reach the monitor or it won't. It's not prone to interference like VGA cables, which are analog, and other analog devices. Buying a better DVI cable and expecting it to make a difference is like the idiots who buy a $1,000 HDMI cable and expect it to make your TV picture better (hilarious reviews on that, by the way).
> 
> That's my best guess and if someone has evidence (not anecdotal experience) otherwise I'd really love to hear it.


To preface, I'm using the stock cable.

That said, I do believe a better cable can sometimes help.

Here's the thing, the digital signals are sent through analog means - i.e. it's not exactly going to be a square waveform going in and out (1 and 0 switching)... in reality the square waveforms are squiggly and are worse when the cable or signal isn't as good (losses and otherwise which has overshoot or undershoot during transitions from 1 and 0... so the monitor may not be getting the 1 and 0s at the right time). This infers that a faulty cable can cause problems, along with weak signals from the video card. Both which explain why some folks get differing overclock results and why certain video cards overclock the same monitor differently (my AMD cards consistently hit 110Hz easily whereas my ill-fated 970 could only do 105Hz and had some artifacts even at that frequency).

You don't have to take my word on it... google for squarewaves from analog cables you'll see how "square" things really aren't.


----------



## NadavCE

Haven't posted in a while, but- I'm thinking to sell my desktop and keep the monitor. However, I'd like to keep on using it with my laptop (a Thinkpad X220- with a DisplayPort output). A regular, cheapo DP to DVI adapter didn't work- would an active (i.e. $$) adapter such as this one work?


----------



## d3ity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Haven't posted in a while, but- I'm thinking to sell my desktop and keep the monitor. However, I'd like to keep on using it with my laptop (a Thinkpad X220- with a DisplayPort output). A regular, cheapo DP to DVI adapter didn't work- would an active (i.e. $$) adapter such as this one work?


Yeah, supposedly the active adapters work for monitors like this: http://blog.brianmoses.net/2015/02/hooking-up-my-qnix-2710-to-displayport.html

But I haven't tried one myself and have no idea what kind of OC, if any, is possible with them.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> Like some others in the community i've absolutely had it with trying to secure a nice 144hz AHVA gsync panel, been using a VG248QE for several years now and its time to move up, but before i do that i have a few questions.
> 
> 1) The matte coating on this monitor, is it relatively light, or thicker with some graininess noticeable on white/lighter backgrounds?
> 
> 2) Am i almost guaranteed to at least hit a 96hz overclock?
> 
> 3) Is there any deterioration in the colors/gamma/contrast when overclocking? This Asus i use becomes noticeably washed out when going from 60hz to 144hz and calibrating helped, but a proper calibration at 60hz and 144hz is still night and day difference at least to me. I would hope this panel doesn't behave similarly.
> 
> 4) Is there an OSD for me to adjust RGB values or can i only control the brightness therefore leaving it all to my colormunki display to create a proper calibration?
> 
> 5) Lastly how bad is the IPS glow and or backlight bleeding? Can the latter be helped with some adjustments to relieve any stress on the panel from the enclosure?


About the matte coating:
Glossy-ish bezel. Not too matte coating.




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3ity*
> 
> That's strange. So many people here recommend the Link Depot cable on Newegg. Personally I bought this cable also on recommendation and it's been working perfectly: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007NJ0S1W


I was using the stock cable but that started giving me issues. The signal would cut from the monitor, light goes red & screen black. This happened quite a bit and eventually I got a cheapo cable somewhere else. Fixed the problem right up. I tried a regular mini-DP to DVI on my surface and that was a no go. Same for an HD7850. Definitely requires an active cable it seems.


----------



## Malinkadink

Ordered last night so i should have it in a few days if they still ship these things fast.


----------



## Tythe

I haven't bought a monitor in years but I saw the QNIX 2710 pixel perfect dvi only model is currently on sale through green-sum for only $199 and I was tempted.

Then I came here and saw the crossover doesn't have the PWM dimming problem the QNIX reportedly has now. I am wondering if I could get some of your expert opinions. Is the crossover worth $120 extra? Ive never had a monitor with PWM diming so not sure if it will bother me. If I keep the brightness at 100% on the QNIX would that alleviate most of the problem if I have one?


----------



## d3ity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tythe*
> 
> I haven't bought a monitor in years but I saw the QNIX 2710 pixel perfect dvi only model is currently on sale through green-sum for only $199 and I was tempted.
> 
> Then I came here and saw the crossover doesn't have the PWM dimming problem the QNIX reportedly has now. I am wondering if I could get some of your expert opinions. Is the crossover worth $120 extra? Ive never had a monitor with PWM diming so not sure if it will bother me. If I keep the brightness at 100% on the QNIX would that alleviate most of the problem if I have one?


Yes I believe (but I'm not 100% positive), that keeping the QNIX on the highest brightness setting means the screen would stay constantly on and not flicker. However unless for some reason you're using it in an environment where you'd always want 100% brightness, like a well-lit office, that's pretty unreasonable to expect to do. Personally I actually almost always keep my Crossover on the _lowest_ brightness setting, because I use the monitor at home in the evenings and don't want a huge blaring light beaming at my face right before I go to sleep.

I know that some people are "sensitive" to PWM dimming and others aren't. And honestly I don't know if there's a way to tell whether you are other than actually getting the monitor and trying it. My reasoning was I don't want to risk putting down $200 for the QNIX only to discover that I was noticing flashing and it was giving me headaches/eye strain/whatever, and then be unable to return it to Korea. So I just wanted to "guarantee" that I'd get a monitor I'd like by buying the Crossover.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3ity*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tythe*
> 
> I haven't bought a monitor in years but I saw the QNIX 2710 pixel perfect dvi only model is currently on sale through green-sum for only $199 and I was tempted.
> 
> Then I came here and saw the crossover doesn't have the PWM dimming problem the QNIX reportedly has now. I am wondering if I could get some of your expert opinions. Is the crossover worth $120 extra? Ive never had a monitor with PWM diming so not sure if it will bother me. If I keep the brightness at 100% on the QNIX would that alleviate most of the problem if I have one?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I believe (but I'm not 100% positive), that keeping the QNIX on the highest brightness setting means the screen would stay constantly on and not flicker. However unless for some reason you're using it in an environment where you'd always want 100% brightness, like a well-lit office, that's pretty unreasonable to expect to do. Personally I actually almost always keep my Crossover on the _lowest_ brightness setting, because I use the monitor at home in the evenings and don't want a huge blaring light beaming at my face right before I go to sleep.
> 
> I know that some people are "sensitive" to PWM dimming and others aren't. And honestly I don't know if there's a way to tell whether you are other than actually getting the monitor and trying it. My reasoning was I don't want to risk putting down $200 for the QNIX only to discover that I was noticing flashing and it was giving me headaches/eye strain/whatever, and then be unable to return it to Korea. So I just wanted to "guarantee" that I'd get a monitor I'd like by buying the Crossover.
Click to expand...

Pro answer ... +R ...









Only thing I would add is for me (PWM sensitive) at normal brightness PWM also adds noticeable ghosting and "blurriness" during fast moves or strafing ... see my post *HERE*








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> Ordered last night so i should have it in a few days if they still ship these things fast.


Looking forward to your impressions?


----------



## Malinkadink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Looking forward to your impressions?


It shipped yesterday so i'll probably get it Monday, maybe sunday, not sure what sort of shipping service they use, so i'm gonna bet on monday. Will test the panel with my colorimeter and see what sort of results i get, and also report on any potential bleed and or dead pixels. I bought the perfect pixel one so they say there is a chance of 1 dead pixel but no more than that so i guess i'll see.


----------



## Fryse

I'm looking to get this monitor since I wanted a 1440p IPS panel, and gsync is so stupidly expensive. Due to a holiday return with Newegg and the need to get something under the tree, I have a gift card that would help with the cost of a monitor. I know most people get the monitor from ebay, but has anyone had trouble getting one through Newegg? I know it's about $30 more or so, but the I don't really need anything else from Newegg except a monitor.


----------



## Malinkadink

Should hopefully have the monitor tomorrow, has anyone bothered with removing the matte film on this monitor? I may possibly do it since i've been using my vg248qe that's had the operation for about a year now and totally love the clarity you get with a glossy screen. I know the matte coating isn't too thick so i guess i'll see what i think when i get my hands on it, but still curious to know if anyone has removed the matte film and what they thought afterwards.


----------



## jedimindtriks

Just got my monitor the other day.

massive backlight bleed top center, but you cant see it while gaming.

i can do 105hz no problem. (running battlefront with real life mod on ultra at 105fps constant is so sexy!

at 110 i get small flickering.

overall for the price i paid, im a happy happy camper


----------



## Godsfist

got it today, and i have no idea what im doing wrong, only getting 80 hz.. was atleast hoping for 96...

the wierd thing thou is on cru im trying to get 96 and other profiles aswell and so on...
but after i restart the comp when im gonna change the hz i can only see 60 and 80(still 96 + in the cru prog)... cant see 96 or the other profiles, did even try install the clock patch from
ToastyX..

+ i have tryed a other cable aswell... any more tips or anyone have a similar problem?







i cant be the only one getting only 80hz









oh well, other then that its a nice monitor...

ok, i have been uninstalling amd drivers 4 times... and now i can finally get it to 105 hz... tryed 110 but that was not good x)


----------



## Malinkadink

Just got mine as well, clocked it up to 96hz no problem, went straight for 105 after still looked good, 106 was good, 107 and up started to give constant artifacts, dropped it back down to 105 and noticed an occasional artifact, currently down to 103hz and it think its good here. It is definitely noticeably slower than my 1ms 144hz monitor, but i can definitely get used to it and live with it, IPS and 1440p is worth holding on to especially at this price. One thing i noticed is by bottom 1/5 of the screen or so is yellowish on a white background, at eye level its fine, and viewing it from above yellows up more of the screen, is this normal? Horizontal viewing angles are pretty much fine.

I'm gonna let the display heat up a little more and then run some color tests to see where i stand. The matte coating definitely looks a little grainy for my tastes but i can appreciate the lack of reflections so i'll see if i want to try to remove it or not later down the road.


----------



## jedimindtriks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Godsfist*
> 
> got it today, and i have no idea what im doing wrong, only getting 80 hz.. was atleast hoping for 96...
> 
> the wierd thing thou is on cru im trying to get 96 and other profiles aswell and so on...
> but after i restart the comp when im gonna change the hz i can only see 60 and 80(still 96 + in the cru prog)... cant see 96 or the other profiles, did even try install the clock patch from
> ToastyX..
> 
> + i have tryed a other cable aswell... any more tips or anyone have a similar problem?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i cant be the only one getting only 80hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> oh well, other then that its a nice monitor...
> 
> ok, i have been uninstalling amd drivers 4 times... and now i can finally get it to 105 hz... tryed 110 but that was not good x)


had the same issue, had to download and use this patcher for CRU to work

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher

looks like 103-105 is the sweetspot. which is still fking golden if you haveA gpu that can hold that fps stable.


----------



## Godsfist

^
i love it


----------



## xxsxx47

hey every one finally n got all the parts for my pc built with crossover 2795 qhd ( my first bulit ever









its a beauty









got mine from dream-seller and no dead pixel as i can see and no bleeding

i took some pic for Frame Skipping with my lg g3 phone one it 96 and 110 and they all look good for me ( dont know about the exposure i just lowerd the iso to the lowest hope i am doing it right )

96


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








110 : got artifacts on it


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








update : i ok i haave it for 2 days and found out i do have back light bleeding its on the top very small cant see it , and with 110 overclock i can see the artifacts now for me the 96 i see good for me and did the overclock just did from the nvidia control panel and its working with most games


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> Should hopefully have the monitor tomorrow, has anyone bothered with removing the matte film on this monitor? I may possibly do it since i've been using my vg248qe that's had the operation for about a year now and totally love the clarity you get with a glossy screen. I know the matte coating isn't too thick so i guess i'll see what i think when i get my hands on it, but still curious to know if anyone has removed the matte film and what they thought afterwards.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> Just got mine as well, clocked it up to 96hz no problem, went straight for 105 after still looked good, 106 was good, 107 and up started to give constant artifacts, dropped it back down to 105 and noticed an occasional artifact, currently down to 103hz and it think its good here. It is definitely noticeably slower than my 1ms 144hz monitor, but i can definitely get used to it and live with it, IPS and 1440p is worth holding on to especially at this price. One thing i noticed is by bottom 1/5 of the screen or so is yellowish on a white background, at eye level its fine, and viewing it from above yellows up more of the screen, is this normal? Horizontal viewing angles are pretty much fine.
> 
> I'm gonna let the display heat up a little more and then run some color tests to see where i stand. The matte coating definitely looks a little grainy for my tastes but i can appreciate the lack of reflections so i'll see if i want to try to remove it or not later down the road.
Click to expand...

Nice! ... no one has removed the 2795 coating that I'm aware of? I don't think that 1/5th bottom yellow un-uniformity is normal. I don't have any, and others haven't reported such, but they may not be as critical as you and I








How's your BLB and or Glow on a black background?

Yep, same observation I had regarding 1080p/TN/144Hz vs 1440p/IPS/96Hz++ ... It's a no-brainer unless your main focus is strictly competitive FPS! And I had a noticeable improvement in all other type gaming apps when I upgraded to a 980Ti pushing more frames! 980Ti w/OC'd 1440p is a sweet spot







.... Makes you wish AUOptronics (Asus/Acer) would have done a better job with their 1440p/IPS/144Hz/GSync panels BUT at $800 even if they were the quality of an LG I would have a hard time with anything but a true "Glossy" panel ....

Speaking of which, those of you "jonesing" for a "glossy" overclockable LG/1440p/IPS, I just noticed David has a couple more Overlord Tempests (re-worked Cat2B) for sale from the bankruptcy/closeout sale late last summer ...not sure of this batch's quality but last summer/fall these were a steal @$280 ... mine was near perfect. just a little shy on the OC @112Hz max. ... see *HERE*









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxsxx47*
> 
> hey every one finally n got all the parts for my pc built with crossover 2795 qhd ( my first bulit ever
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its a beauty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got mine from dream-seller and no dead pixel as i can see and no bleeding
> 
> i took some pic for Frame Skipping with my lg g3 phone one it 96 and 110 and they all look good for me ( dont know about the exposure i just lowerd the iso to the lowest hope i am doing it right )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 96
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 110


Nice! Could use a slower shutter speed, but your doing it right







...
Now show off your new builds specs in your sig


----------



## Malinkadink

The glow is extremely minimal, with virtually no bleed to speak of, the bias lighitng helps too.

I am having an issue calibrating the screen though. I've been using dispcalGUI and HCFR for testing the color profiles and i keep coming up with the same result, gamma is fine 2.2, but the color temperature is always too cool at around 6700k. Without any calibration the screen has a green tint, the color profile corrects this but then i get a blue tint, not as bad as green, but still not ideal. I tried even using nvidia settings by adjusting the brightness of each RGB channel and i basically come to the same thing as the color profile gives me, a blue tint, red and green are right on the money with 100% coverage, but blue always ends up being around 103% hence 6700k.

I noticed that for some reason nvidia color settings go up by 2 or 3 percent, and they alternate, why the hell doesn't it go up by 1% increments? If it did i probably could get the blue down and achieve 6500k, but since it drops it down by 3% to 47% from 50 after getting green to 100% the blue goes down too much and i get a green tint again. I wish the monitor just had hardware RGB settings, they have 4 buttons that do nothing







It's bad enough the brightness adjustment is also pretty random one click can increase it by 10cd/m^2 or as much as 20-30 in other instances, i also have noticeable flickering at certain brightness settings, not sure if thats normal or not. Luckily between 100-120 where i wanna be it doesn't do that flickering though.

Is there anything i can do to try to fine tune this thing better?


----------



## rolfathan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> About the matte coating:
> Glossy-ish bezel. Not too matte coating.


Dang. That is a lot more reflective than anyone has said before.

I might be starting to steer away from this monitor. Even if I can't see an "image" reflected, any bright colors would still show up in the screen.


----------



## BadRobot

Keep in mind that I had to turn the screen *off* to get a good picture with a reflection. Under normal use in a bright room, no problem here.


----------



## soupernoodle

How long did dream seller take the dispatch? And how long from dispatch did it take to be delivered?

6 (working) days since i've ordered and nothing.. they told me they'd ship it out today and yet i'm still waiting.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxsxx47*
> 
> hey every one finally n got all the parts for my pc built with crossover 2795 qhd ( my first bulit ever
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its a beauty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got mine from dream-seller and no dead pixel as i can see and no bleeding
> 
> i took some pic for Frame Skipping with my lg g3 phone one it 96 and 110 and they all look good for me ( dont know about the exposure i just lowerd the iso to the lowest hope i am doing it right )
> 
> 96
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 110


----------



## xxsxx47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soupernoodle*
> 
> How long did dream seller take the dispatch? And how long from dispatch did it take to be delivered?
> 
> 6 (working) days since i've ordered and nothing.. they told me they'd ship it out today and yet i'm still waiting.


i got mine 5 working days ( all total number of days it took 6 days ) i asked him to ship it with FedEx as described in his page he can ship with dhl or FedEx and i choose FedEx its faster and less problems with dhl for me


----------



## soupernoodle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxsxx47*
> 
> i got mine 5 working days ( all total number of days it took 6 days ) i asked him to ship it with FedEx as described in his page he can ship with dhl or FedEx and i choose FedEx its faster and less problems with dhl for me


Did they mark it as dispatched on ebay and give you tracking? Or did it just arrive one day?

Thanks for the replies.


----------



## rolfathan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Keep in mind that I had to turn the screen *off* to get a good picture with a reflection. Under normal use in a bright room, no problem here.


I immediately turned off my monitor to compare, and it's pretty close to the same. Thank you for restoring my faith in the Crossover monitor.

I remember almost getting an ASUS 2560x1440 about a year and a half ago. Went to Fry's to check it out, and even when the screen was on, it looked like that. Super super reflective. But I (for whatever reason) missed that it being turned off vs turned on makes a huge difference.

EDIT: I put clarification on which monitor I was referring to.


----------



## jedimindtriks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soupernoodle*
> 
> Did they mark it as dispatched on ebay and give you tracking? Or did it just arrive one day?
> 
> Thanks for the replies.


you get tracking and everything


----------



## Malinkadink

Anyone ever have to return one of these things from the US? What was the return shipping like in $s?


----------



## WhoMe

Hi People

I just ordered one of these and I emailed gn_australia to confirm if the monitor is PWM free. They said it may not be PWM free. What's the true story. I'm reading through this long thread and the answer seems to be maybe. I might cancel the order if there is a good chance of getting one with PWM.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhoMe*
> 
> I just ordered one of these and I emailed gn_australia to confirm if the monitor is PWM free. They said it may not be PWM free. What's the true story. I'm reading through this long thread and the answer seems to be maybe. I might cancel the order if there is a good chance of getting one with PWM.


eBay sellers don't understand the products they sell and the doubt was caused by someone who did not read the PWM test instructions properly. So far only one of the many properly tested 27" 1440p Korean IPS panels has used PWM.


----------



## WhoMe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> eBay sellers don't understand the products they sell and the doubt was caused by someone who did not read the PWM test instructions properly. So far only one of the many properly tested 27" 1440p Korean IPS panels has used PWM.


Cool. In other words, the 2795 does not use PWM?


----------



## WhoMe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marccoc*
> 
> About those CrossOver 2795QHD AHIPS with *75hz Realclock* mention in their title.. those don't Overclock..
> 
> here's a reply I just received from bigcl othcraft:
> 
> * New Crossover 2795QHD AHIPS LED 27" Monitor 2560 x 1440 75Hz Realclock DVI-D*:
> 
> So make sure the word "overclock" is mentioned in description...


Is this confirmed? The one I just ordered is the Realclock 75Hz version. I still have time to cancel the order.


----------



## Sjqnqo3876

edit


----------



## WhoMe

Hmmmm. It' so damned tricky buying a Korean monitor. Looks like I;ll have to cancel this one.

Thanks


----------



## Sjqnqo3876

*edit*

edit


----------



## WhoMe

I cancelled the order for the Real 75Hz model and reordered the overclockable one. I don't understand the Real 75Hz feature when you can just overclock the normal model.

I can vouch for gn_australia on eBay - they cancelled the order and refunded me straight away.

I reordered from dream-seller. Not sure why, but eBay gave me a 10% off voucher which sweetened the deal.


----------



## Advil000

Just a basic reply to let everyone know that after 3 months of hard use at 96hz the Crossover 2795 QHD is still working great, and I'm still totally in love with it.

That is all.


----------



## jmw03j

Hey, I tried to find an answer already in the thread itself but had no luck.

I picked up a 2795 QHD about two weeks ago, have no issues at all with it to speak of...except what I can only assume is PWM flickering?

At max brightness, on a white background I notice nothing, its a great uniform/solid picture no flickering or anything. As soon as I drop it to say 5 levels to 5/10 or whatever it is, I immediately notice flickering of the white background. Am I wrong in thinking that this specific model was not supposed to have this problem?


----------



## Malinkadink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmw03j*
> 
> 
> Hey, I tried to find an answer already in the thread itself but had no luck.
> 
> I picked up a 2795 QHD about two weeks ago, have no issues at all with it to speak of...except what I can only assume is PWM flickering?
> 
> At max brightness, on a white background I notice nothing, its a great uniform/solid picture no flickering or anything. As soon as I drop it to say 5 levels to 5/10 or whatever it is, I immediately notice flickering of the white background. Am I wrong in thinking that this specific model was not supposed to have this problem?


Put a camera to it and see if it has PWM lines, mine flickers at a certain brightness level but thats not PWM it was the actual brightness of the monitor fluctuating between 1-2nits and i was able to confirm the phenomena with my colorimeter which was also catching that fluctuation. This was maybe like 5 clicks from the lowest brightness settings, other brightness levels were unaffected.


----------



## Shogun0

Been looking for a 27" 1440p IPS and been leery of a lot of things I was finding from Acer, Asus, etc. I almost pulled the trigger on a BenQ display until I found this thread.

Decided why not and pulled the trigger. Ordered this from Green-Sum this past Thursday. They sent a UPS tracking number that night, it is shipping from California. Will be here Thursday according to UPS.

I also ordered a single monitor arm to go with it. I sit a decent way from my desk due to my custom built flight sim mount I built for my controls. I am upgrading from a cheap Samsung 21.5" 1080p display. Figured since I just upgraded to a 6600k and 980ti.. I might as well get the resolution I deserve out of it.

I do have a quick question: how is the matte display? I used to have an Asus ROG G750JX laptop that had a matte screen that was terrible. It was like staring at a screen door and was.. grainy? It was like a thick coat of plastic was on it. It was awful.


----------



## Dradus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogun0*
> 
> Been looking for a 27" 1440p IPS and been leery of a lot of things I was finding from Acer, Asus, etc. I almost pulled the trigger on a BenQ display until I found this thread.
> 
> Decided why not and pulled the trigger. Ordered this from Green-Sum this past Thursday. They sent a UPS tracking number that night, it is shipping from California. Will be here Thursday according to UPS.
> 
> I also ordered a single monitor arm to go with it. I sit a decent way from my desk due to my custom built flight sim mount I built for my controls. I am upgrading from a cheap Samsung 21.5" 1080p display. Figured since I just upgraded to a 6600k and 980ti.. I might as well get the resolution I deserve out of it.
> 
> I do have a quick question: how is the matte display? I used to have an Asus ROG G750JX laptop that had a matte screen that was terrible. It was like staring at a screen door and was.. grainy? It was like a thick coat of plastic was on it. It was awful.


Same monitor, cpu, and gpu as me. I assure you, you'll not be disappointed.







I was worried I made the wrong choice going with matte while I was waiting for this monitor to arrive, but I was pretty blown away when I hooked it up. Very vibrant and great contrast. Now, I've only ever owned matte displays but this one is the best I've owned by far.


----------



## projenk

Do you guys think that this crossover has the same spec as the one mentioned in the post? I really like its style but I want to make sure that all the good points of the 295 are there. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=321784828415&alt=web

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


----------



## rolfathan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *projenk*
> 
> Do you guys think that this crossover has the same spec as the one mentioned in the post? I really like its style but I want to make sure that all the good points of the 295 are there. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=321784828415&alt=web
> 
> Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


I highly highly doubt it. You'll need to find someone that has it already. What's the reason you want this one instead?


----------



## Mantis0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *projenk*
> 
> Do you guys think that this crossover has the same spec as the one mentioned in the post? I really like its style but I want to make sure that all the good points of the 295 are there. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=321784828415&alt=web
> 
> Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


This one seems to have HDMI and Displayport input. That means no OC, right?


----------



## projenk

Its style and the slim bazel







I am looking everywhere for a thin bazel monitor with the specs of the 295. Can't find anything









Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


----------



## d3ity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mantis0*
> 
> This one seems to have HDMI and Displayport input. That means no OC, right?


Correct.


----------



## projenk

Although the eBay page says overclockable...

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


----------



## sgtdisturbed47

Just thought I'd check in after a few months of ownership. I still love this monitor, still works perfect. There was some backlight bleed at the top after a while (likely my fault because of the firm mount arm I'm using), but I fixed it by loosening the bezel a hair to prevent pressure on the screen. No dead pixels, holds 96hz, and games look amazing. One of the backlight brightness levels flickers but only at that one level.


----------



## clause

Hi guys,

So my monitor just arrived ytd. Got it to 96Hz, no dead pixel. So I'm pretty happy with the result and how much I spent on it.

My question is this, I have a color munki display calibration tool and i have calibrated it.

However I feel I want to make the screen a tad brighter, is there a way to adjust the brigthness via software?

Or which software should i install for it?

Many thanks!


----------



## soupernoodle

Got mine today, everything seems good so far at 96hz, i've got the smiley devil face on the front as the logo.

Glad i asked them to half the value (to $150) because i got hit by a £44 customs charge just on that, would of been pissed if i had to pay it on the full price.

Dreamseller took their sweet ass time to ship, and i had to threaten to cancel for them to miraculously ship it on the 7th (business day) came well protected with a good few layers of bubble wrap though.


----------



## Yasuhan

So, I've had this monitor for ~1 month now, and I'm loving it. Great colours, no deadpixels - just amazing.

I just have one question regarding it: I got it OC'd to 105hz right now, I can't really push higher because then I get artifacts. It all works fine, there's just one issue: If I play games in fullscreen mode, they constantly limit themselves to 60hz, and I have no idea why. Vsync and everything is off, they still run at 60hz. If I make it borderless window, they work just fine at 105hz.

Can anyone tell me what could cause it and how to resolve it?

I'm running an R9 390x.


----------



## Shogun0

I LOVE THIS MONITOR.

It came in last night. NOT A SINGLE DEAD PIXEL. I am anal about that and was worried. If there is one.. I can't find it. Didn't bother with the Perfect Pixel option after reading here. Minimal backlight bleeding, just fantastic.

Colors were warm out of the gate. Downloaded the 8-25-2015 ICC profile from here.. much better.

Overclocked to 110hz but had minor color artifacting. I did get to 120hz with no skipping but lots of artifacting. I could prob run at 105ish but decided meh. Just dropped it to 96hz like most here and runs flawless.

I also ordered the Ergotron LX monitor arm. As others have said- the screws will be too long. I just put 3 washes behind each screw and it worked great.

I LOVE 1440P IPS.

In regular gaming/browsing/working mode:



In flight sim mode:





This monitor is fantastic. I was a little worried but no longer. It is great.

I did notice, as post above me said, that some games wouldn't register above 60fps. Turns out that I had to modify some of the games config files because it still thought I was running a 60hz monitor. Once I changed that to 96.. perfect.


----------



## YoungPuzzlez

when overclocking this monitor do I need to install a driver for the monitor and if so could you point me in the right direction


----------



## clause

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YoungPuzzlez*
> 
> when overclocking this monitor do I need to install a driver for the monitor and if so could you point me in the right direction


If you are using nvidia card, you can just go to nvidia control panel and create custom resolution. Set it to the refresh rate that you want and you are good to go.


----------



## YoungPuzzlez

ok thanks


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogun0*
> 
> I LOVE THIS MONITOR.
> 
> It came in last night. NOT A SINGLE DEAD PIXEL. I am anal about that and was worried. If there is one.. I can't find it. Didn't bother with the Perfect Pixel option after reading here. Minimal backlight bleeding, just fantastic.
> 
> Colors were warm out of the gate. Downloaded the 8-25-2015 ICC profile from here.. much better.
> 
> Overclocked to 110hz but had minor color artifacting. I did get to 120hz with no skipping but lots of artifacting. I could prob run at 105ish but decided meh. Just dropped it to 96hz like most here and runs flawless.
> 
> I also ordered the Ergotron LX monitor arm. As others have said- the screws will be too long. I just put 3 washes behind each screw and it worked great.
> 
> I LOVE 1440P IPS.
> 
> In regular gaming/browsing/working mode:
> 
> 
> 
> In flight sim mode:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This monitor is fantastic. I was a little worried but no longer. It is great.
> 
> I did notice, as post above me said, that some games wouldn't register above 60fps. Turns out that I had to modify some of the games config files because it still thought I was running a 60hz monitor. Once I changed that to 96.. perfect.


Looking good! I went out and bought a monitor stand too for two of three monitors. Sadly, I can't get a wallpaper that works for 1080x1920 resolution with a setup like this











Using Crimson control panel I even managed to get the right monitor up to 75Hz with no artifacts. The 2795 refuses any settings from Crimson though.


----------



## cyris69

Has the newer nvidia driver solved the dual monitor issues with overclocking? I'm still running 358.50 as it didn't have the issue.


----------



## Dockson

I just got this monitor delivered to me today with no stuck pixels, which is great. I do have a problem with the colors on it though. At 6500K color temperature the monitor has this yellow tint, even with the ICC profile provided somewhere earlier in this thread. I have to bring it up to 10K (max) to use it at all and even then it's really obviously still yellow instead of white.

Images (2795 left, Asus VG248QE on right):
10K
6.5K

It doesn't come out to well on photo but it's very obvious in person.

Any ideas?


----------



## cyris69

In Color Sustainer I just use pre-defined -> Linear, not the ICC profiles. My Q is much whiter than my asus monitor.
Asus Left | Q Right


----------



## Dradus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dockson*
> 
> I just got this monitor delivered to me today with no stuck pixels, which is great. I do have a problem with the colors on it though. At 6500K color temperature the monitor has this yellow tint, even with the ICC profile provided somewhere earlier in this thread. I have to bring it up to 10K (max) to use it at all and even then it's really obviously still yellow instead of white.
> 
> Images (2795 left, Asus VG248QE on right):
> 10K
> 6.5K
> 
> It doesn't come out to well on photo but it's very obvious in person.
> 
> Any ideas?


No ideas (sorry), but I can confirm that it definitely shouldn't look like that.


----------



## Fedex

So i had the same problem as this man:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Hello
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matt4765*
> 
> Just tested it, and when unplugging the cable while the monitor is on (blue LED and is use) the light will go to red and the flashing problem won't occur. However, if I unplug the cable while the monitor is already blinking, it will continue to do so.
> 
> After unplugging/reconnecting the monitor while it was on, the blinking seemed to stop when the PC shutdown/slept!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will test it more to see if it will stay in standby correctly, but now everything looks pretty good.
> 
> I can recreate the blinking by simply turning the monitor off then on again when the computer is either on or off/sleeping (could somebody test this?), and the blinking will occur when the monitor goes into standby mode (if not already there) and it won't stop until I disconnect/reconnect the monitor while it is powered on and in use (blue LED). It seems that as long as I don't touch the power button, the monitor will standby correctly!
> 
> Thanks guys! Hope everything stays working correctly.
> 
> EDIT: Unfortunately it seems like the good news from before wasn't actually accurate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. Now the monitor is back to its blinking ways, however I can sometimes stop it from blinking by disconnecting/reconnecting the DVI-D cable, but the effect wears off after a couple of hours or sooner. Overall, it is really quite finicky, sometimes it will sleep (after removing/reinserting the cable), sometimes it won't, etc. Also, now sometimes when unplugging the DVI-D cable when the monitor is in use (blue LED) it will not go red but blink..so I really don't know what causes it at this point.
> 
> I have tried a couple of different dual link DVI-D cables and all have has this problem, but if there is a specific one that you recommend I'd be interested in trying it.






Аfter a long correspondence with the seller, we found that the problem is a / d board. As a result, he sent me a new one with instructions how to replace it. However, I am not sure that I have enough skills to disassemble and assemble the monitor without incident, so I put her for better times.


----------



## grimboso

After reading a lot about this monitor in this thread I decided to get one instead of a Qstar. I actually ended up getting three of them







We'll see how they all turn out once they arrive!


----------



## matt4765

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fedex*
> 
> So i had the same problem as this man:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hello
> 
> 
> 
> Аfter a long correspondence with the seller, we found that the problem is a / d board. As a result, he sent me a new one with instructions how to replace it. However, I am not sure that I have enough skills to disassemble and assemble the monitor without incident, so I put her for better times.


Wow, thanks for finding and posting the problem. Can you also post or send me those instructions? I think I will try to ask the seller (I bought from green-sum) for a new board and attempt to replace it.

Thanks.


----------



## Toss3

So is this a worthwhile upgrade from the QNIX 2710? Looking for something to hold me over until we get decent 10 bit IPS displays at 120hz+. Seems like the perfect monitor to me because it doesn't suffer from the PWM flickering and the gamma shift of the Qnix, and it doesn't seem to be as bad as the Acer/Asus monitors that cost 2-3 times as much.


----------



## Fedex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matt4765*
> 
> Wow, thanks for finding and posting the problem. Can you also post or send me those instructions? I think I will try to ask the seller (I bought from green-sum) for a new board and attempt to replace it.
> 
> Thanks.


Sure, here it is.

Howtochangeboardfor27QD_27QHD_2799_2795.pptx 431k .pptx file


----------



## Nivekpro

Sorry, total noob here.

I bought one of these monitors on ebay and should be getting it soon. I asked this in another thread but I'm trying to figure out how to overclock it. I went to the thread listed by the OP on how to overclock but they list two drivers, one for QNIX and one for X-Star. Do I need a specific driver for this monitor or do I just use one of those?


----------



## doco

so the housing for this monitor should be the same as the qnix2710, right? has anyone tried the BLB tape fix on this monitor?


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> so the housing for this monitor should be the same as the qnix2710, right? has anyone tried the BLB tape fix on this monitor?


Haven't felt the need to but opened the case multiple times to get the stand off, on, and back off again. Made the mistake of buying a monitor stand that was too small the first time.


----------



## projenk

I am about to order the crossover ganjidog, however I have some doubts with regards to the duty tax. Did you pay duty tax when the monitor reached your country?? I live in UK


----------



## ooztuncer

hello,

upon this thread I bought one







))

however ı believe my cable is really bad. here is a pic: https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share/XKKt0Tc5f3CbMdXbceq0UaLoRoF4D3gNjSo3aXvk5v0?_encoding=UTF8&mgh=1&ref_=cd_ph_share_link_copy

would you please confirm my issue is cable related.

best,


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogun0*
> 
> I LOVE THIS MONITOR.
> 
> It came in last night. NOT A SINGLE DEAD PIXEL. I am anal about that and was worried. If there is one.. I can't find it. Didn't bother with the Perfect Pixel option after reading here. Minimal backlight bleeding, just fantastic.
> 
> Colors were warm out of the gate. Downloaded the 8-25-2015 ICC profile from here.. much better.
> 
> Overclocked to 110hz but had minor color artifacting. I did get to 120hz with no skipping but lots of artifacting. I could prob run at 105ish but decided meh. Just dropped it to 96hz like most here and runs flawless.
> 
> I also ordered the Ergotron LX monitor arm. As others have said- the screws will be too long. I just put 3 washes behind each screw and it worked great.
> 
> I LOVE 1440P IPS.
> 
> In regular gaming/browsing/working mode:
> 
> 
> 
> In flight sim mode:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This monitor is fantastic. I was a little worried but no longer. It is great.
> 
> I did notice, as post above me said, that some games wouldn't register above 60fps. Turns out that I had to modify some of the games config files because it still thought I was running a 60hz monitor. Once I changed that to 96.. perfect.


All you need to do is to use CRU







I'm tempted to buy this monitor but I'm worried about dead pixels, bleed and uniformity issues. It would cost me around 320 euro with taxes. I'm afraid because I had Asus PG279Q and Acer XB271HU displays and these sucks in this area. Especially uniformity is terrible on them. But these are LG panels so they could be tad better. Hmm, don't know...


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mantis0*
> 
> This one seems to have HDMI and Displayport input. That means no OC, right?


Why do you think it is not possible to overclock via HDMI or DisplayPort ?


----------



## projenk

Dreamseller is in holiday and he didn't restock his eBay page... I'll have to wait







.... did you guys paid customs when you received your order?

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


----------



## Mantis0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Why do you think it is not possible to overclock via HDMI or DisplayPort ?


From what I know you can not OC the monitor at all, if it has HDMI and/or DisplayPort. Not even via DVI.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *projenk*
> 
> Dreamseller is in holiday and he didn't restock his eBay page... I'll have to wait
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... did you guys paid customs when you received your order?
> 
> Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


I bought from greensum and asked them to put a lower price on my package. They shipped it with a $72 price on it. Had to pay €25 of custom fees. I am in Europe.


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mantis0*
> 
> From what I know you can not OC the monitor at all, if it has HDMI and/or DisplayPort. Not even via DVI.
> I bought from greensum and asked them to put a lower price on my package. They shipped it with a $72 price on it. Had to pay €25 of custom fees. I am in Europe.


Of course you can, I have my Benq clocked to 87Hz via HDMI and I had also another Dell clocked via DisplayPort - not a problem. But of course it depends on a monitor. Standard brands are usually locked so you can go max. 75Hz.

Did you pay 25 euros fees for 72$ monitor? It's a bit much, isn't it ? Are you sure they didn't take a real price and ignored what seller said ?? We have 20% VAT here, but don't know if any import fees. I think there is none for this kind of electronics so I should pay 301$ + 20% at most...

In any case, how good is the monitor ? Are you satisfied with him ? Any dead pixel or uniformity problems ? I mean one part of the screen yellowish or so ? It was like that on AUO panels. Do you have any extensive backlight bleed or orange IPS glow ? thx.


----------



## bezzell

I've noticed some games, mostly console ports are frame-capped at 60fps. It's the games limitations, not the monitors, windows, or gpu fault. Some games have work arounds in the config files to uncap the limiter, some do not. This is actually a newish trend that will hopefully die out quickly with the popularity of higher refresh rate monitors becoming popular.

Strange that it takes a decade of screen-tearing, stuttering, display port 1.2a, a $200 gsync module, just to get us back to the basic quality of a CRT display, haha.

Also, Single-input versions of every Korean panel I know of are the only ones capable of overclocking without frame skipping. The only reason they do overclock so well is they do not have an internal scaler or add-in board required for multiple inputs. Scaling and signal goes directly from the gpu to the actual panel itself. This is standard information found in any of the Qnix, Crossover, X-star threads.


----------



## Mantis0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Of course you can, I have my Benq clocked to 87Hz via HDMI and I had also another Dell clocked via DisplayPort - not a problem. But of course it depends on a monitor. Standard brands are usually locked so you can go max. 75Hz.


I am only talking about the korean IPS monitors. Maybe someone else can clear this up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Did you pay 25 euros fees for 72$ monitor? It's a bit much, isn't it ? Are you sure they didn't take a real price and ignored what seller said ?? We have 20% VAT here, but don't know if any import fees. I think there is none for this kind of electronics so I should pay 301$ + 20% at most...


Also 20% VAT here. The "problem" is not the VAT, but the toll fee you additionally have to pay. With $300 the fees would have been something around €100.

I'd ask the seller to use a lower price on the package. In the worst case you have to provide the custom office the invoice with the real amount, I think.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> In any case, how good is the monitor ? Are you satisfied with him ? Any dead pixel or uniformity problems ? I mean one part of the screen yellowish or so ? It was like that on AUO panels. Do you have any extensive backlight bleed or orange IPS glow ? thx.


No dead pixels. I had one when it arrived but some knocking on the panel got rid of it.

No extensive backlight bleed or orange/yellow glow either.

I am still very happy with the purchase.


----------



## cookieboyeli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toss3*
> 
> So is this a worthwhile upgrade from the QNIX 2710? Looking for something to hold me over until we get decent 10 bit IPS displays at 120hz+. Seems like the perfect monitor to me because it doesn't suffer from the PWM flickering and the gamma shift of the Qnix, and it doesn't seem to be as bad as the Acer/Asus monitors that cost 2-3 times as much.


Bump to that. I'm wondering the same thing. I won't spend a penny more than $550 on a monitor, let alone $ 799 for a PG279Q which doesn't even have 10+ bit LUT and may have QC issues... It would be much more appealing if it were to do backlight strobing at 144/72Hz instead of 120/60Hz and OC to 168Hz instead of 165Hz for movies/tv.

Since that's not an option/doesn't exist and 4k doesn't seem to be getting close to 120Hz any time soon, I'm alos looking for a new Korean panel to upgrade from my QNIX 2710. Except mine has no PWM dimming, so the choice is even harder!

*What is the difference between the Crossover 27QW Sakwa & Crossover 2795QHD*


----------



## clause

Hey guys,

I just wanna check with you guys. I have colormunki display and I was doing a new caliration with displaycal instead of the one that comes with it. This is on windows 10 if that helps. Tried doing it in linux is even more difficult. hahaha.

In the first stage of calibration where you can try to adjust the green, red and blue and brightness, since there is no OSD to adjust the RGB and only brightness.

How do you guys do it? Is there a way for me to do it via software? Or do I stuck on whatever the RGB values are?

Many thanks!


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mantis0*
> 
> I am only talking about the korean IPS monitors. Maybe someone else can clear this up.
> Also 20% VAT here. The "problem" is not the VAT, but the toll fee you additionally have to pay. With $300 the fees would have been something around €100.
> 
> I'd ask the seller to use a lower price on the package. In the worst case you have to provide the custom office the invoice with the real amount, I think.
> No dead pixels. I had one when it arrived but some knocking on the panel got rid of it.
> 
> No extensive backlight bleed or orange/yellow glow either.
> 
> I am still very happy with the purchase.


Thx for info. You were right, import tax for these monitors is 14%. I have hoped for 0% as other electronics such mobile devices. So total fees are around 34% in Slovakia. We have 20% VAT. So it would cost me around 400$. Just don't know if it's not a big risk. The truth is that LG panels are far better than AUO. AUO are awful. Very bed uniformity, orange glow in corners, dust under the screen, backlight bleeding and dead pixel. This is just too much for 800 euro monitor. On the other hand they have very good response time.

What is response time on this ? I mean highest one ? Also can please you tell me if there is an option is OSD to set vibrance and does it have 6 channel color settings ? What options are there? And how well yours is overclockable ? I would like to have at least 100Hz if possible.

Good to hear you are satisfied with your purchase. I'm a bit afraid because I'm too picky especially with uniformity and BLB. But maybe it would be worth a risk because actually there is no good universal gaming/work monitor on the market. XB271HU is close to that but they have uniformity and BLB issues.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clause*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I just wanna check with you guys. I have colormunki display and I was doing a new caliration with displaycal instead of the one that comes with it. This is on windows 10 if that helps. Tried doing it in linux is even more difficult. hahaha.
> 
> In the first stage of calibration where you can try to adjust the green, red and blue and brightness, since there is no OSD to adjust the RGB and only brightness.
> 
> How do you guys do it? Is there a way for me to do it via software? Or do I stuck on whatever the RGB values are?
> 
> Many thanks!


There isn't really a setting to adjust RGB channels ? That's pretty bad. Can anyone of you guys take a screens of ODS menu? I would like to see that. Thx.


----------



## clause

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> There isn't really a setting to adjust RGB channels ? That's pretty bad. Can anyone of you guys take a screens of ODS menu? I would like to see that. Thx.


Yeah there is simply no OSD for this screen. You only have the brightness button and power button. Everything else is through software.

Don't get me wrong, the colors are great out of the box and from my colormunki its close just not the most perfect if thats what you are after.

Thus i'm asking people over here on how they do it or is it stuck as is for the RGB setting.


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clause*
> 
> Yeah there is simply no OSD for this screen. You only have the brightness button and power button. Everything else is through software.
> 
> Don't get me wrong, the colors are great out of the box and from my colormunki its close just not the most perfect if thats what you are after.
> 
> Thus i'm asking people over here on how they do it or is it stuck as is for the RGB setting.


That's bad, this really feels cheap. I saw somewhere that this monitor has half of the buttons disconnected.

You could try this software - softMCCS.

With a bit of luck it will allow you to change lot of parameters but monitor must support DDC/CI. I have no idea if it does. I was able to manage 6 axis color settings on PG279Q with this software because OSD does not support it. Unfortunately, these changes were not persistent and reverted back to default values once monitor was turned off.

It's a shame because I believe these LG panels are great and much better than AUO and being overclockable to 120Hz would blow another 60Hz 1440p screen out of the water but seems Koreans don't pay much attention to build quality and overal OSD functionality and calibration settings.

Do you think you could take couple of OSD screenshots for me ? Would really appreciate that.

Seems my only way is to get a decent XB271HU but they are far to expensive


----------



## clause

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> That's bad, this really feels cheap. I saw somewhere that this monitor has half of the buttons disconnected.
> 
> You could try this software - softMCCS.
> 
> With a bit of luck it will allow you to change lot of parameters but monitor must support DDC/CI. I have no idea if it does. I was able to manage 6 axis color settings on PG279Q with this software because OSD does not support it. Unfortunately, these changes were not persistent and reverted back to default values once monitor was turned off.
> 
> It's a shame because I believe these LG panels are great and much better than AUO and being overclockable to 120Hz would blow another 60Hz 1440p screen out of the water but seems Koreans don't pay much attention to build quality and overal OSD functionality and calibration settings.
> 
> Do you think you could take couple of OSD screenshots for me ? Would really appreciate that.
> 
> Seems my only way is to get a decent XB271HU but they are far to expensive


Well there is simply no OSD menu at all, so really can't give you any screenshot or whatsoever. It does seems cheap but its a beautiful monitor. If you jump to xb271hu thread, you can see there are tons of complain over there too.

Build quality i honestly think it is fine, it is not as bad as you make it out to be, unless you have exceptionally high standard.

It really comes down to price ratio. Like where I am, a XB271HU is almost AUD1100 and this monitor is around AUD430. The difference is just too massive for what I need it to be considering i can get a pretty damn good monitor for 1/3 of the price.

And don't push for 120Hz, just believe it can do 96Hz and above that is a bonus.


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clause*
> 
> Well there is simply no OSD menu at all, so really can't give you any screenshot or whatsoever. It does seems cheap but its a beautiful monitor. If you jump to xb271hu thread, you can see there are tons of complain over there too.
> 
> Build quality i honestly think it is fine, it is not as bad as you make it out to be, unless you have exceptionally high standard.
> 
> It really comes down to price ratio. Like where I am, a XB271HU is almost AUD1100 and this monitor is around AUD430. The difference is just too massive for what I need it to be considering i can get a pretty damn good monitor for 1/3 of the price.
> 
> And don't push for 120Hz, just believe it can do 96Hz and above that is a bonus.


Thanks for info, then it is really not a way to go for me. I can't imagine I have no display calibration options in OSD menu.

Yes, I know about XB271HU. I had one and also XB270HU and two PG279Q. All of them sucked in some way. Either BLB, dead/stuck pixels, orange IPS glow or uniformity issues. So tell me about that quality







But XB271HU was almost acceptable for me but one extensive BLB spot ruined it all. They are pricey and currently out of stock here so I was looking for alternative but if there is no OSD then...









I could accept build quality imperfection but, missing calibration capabilities and risk of blb, bad pixels and no warranty is too much for me. I believe it can be a great monitor but it's just to risky.


----------



## xover

I got a Crossover 2795 QHD last month. Ordered from dream-seller. It took them quite some time to ship it (~14 days), but the actual shipping by TNT Express to Germany was quite fast (6 days). First surprise was that I didn't had to pay VAT or whatever, not sure why, but I'm not complaining.
My monitor has no dead pixels or backlight bleed. Perfect overclock to 96Hz, at 110Hz I got flickering when playing games, 120Hz = green stripes everywhere. Took me some time to figure out that a simple Nvidia driver update would have been enough to enable OC... nvm. I got a sRGB calibration file from this thread, great colors now. The display stand is certainly not super sturdy but the hate in this thread is not justified in my opinion. My previous monitor was a Dell U2412M and I'm not missing the adjustable stand as the Crossover's display position is quite good, so I have no need to adjust it.
I'm only annoyed by the glare display frame everything else is perfect with the monitor







And thanks you guys for this thread!!


----------



## clause

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clause*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I just wanna check with you guys. I have colormunki display and I was doing a new caliration with displaycal instead of the one that comes with it. This is on windows 10 if that helps. Tried doing it in linux is even more difficult. hahaha.
> 
> In the first stage of calibration where you can try to adjust the green, red and blue and brightness, since there is no OSD to adjust the RGB and only brightness.
> 
> How do you guys do it? Is there a way for me to do it via software? Or do I stuck on whatever the RGB values are?
> 
> Many thanks!


Anyone? Desperate for a definite answer. Thanks!


----------



## d3ity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clause*
> 
> Anyone? Desperate for a definite answer. Thanks!


The monitor doesn't have an OSD. Any calibration you do to it has to come from your display driver software, like Nvidia Control Center or AMD Catalyst. You can also try Windows color management profiles.


----------



## clause

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3ity*
> 
> The monitor doesn't have an OSD. Any calibration you do to it has to come from your display driver software, like Nvidia Control Center or AMD Catalyst. You can also try Windows color management profiles.


I know that, so i'm asking whether there is a software that will adjust that permanently while still taking into account my calibration profile.

Because with Nvidia Control Panel, if I adjust the RGB then the displaycal software does work together. So its one or another. So if there is a software that is working independently that allow me to adjust the RGB that will be great.

If anyone know whether such software exist? Thanks!


----------



## StrongForce

Oook so, I decided to play some Payday 2 today only to see this game magically overclocks my screen LOL when I launch I didn't noticed the flicker, but on the menu I notice massive flicker and then I see 105fps ! my OC is set at 96..and works perfectly fine (in GTA V I had some strange glitch too but looked more like the game itself.. everything turned dark/black..) but here.. it literally overclocks my screen no kidding, I'm using a r9 290x gigabytes oc with latest drivers 15.12.

I'm wondering now.. is it possible I accidentally downloaded the r9 300's drivers and I get strange things like that ? but seriously, how is this even possible though ? a random software overclocks my screen ??! in the options you can change the max FPS of the game.. so I put 90 to try (it was at 100 or more), and restarted etc, didnt work, also it had 1900x1200 (my second monitor) by default, so I thought it might have been that, some sort of conflict but I change to 1440p and restarted, still have the same problem, very strange..

I checked my refresh rate on windows is 96 too, something is up lol


----------



## Malinkadink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clause*
> 
> I know that, so i'm asking whether there is a software that will adjust that permanently while still taking into account my calibration profile.
> 
> Because with Nvidia Control Panel, if I adjust the RGB then the displaycal software does work together. So its one or another. So if there is a software that is working independently that allow me to adjust the RGB that will be great.
> 
> If anyone know whether such software exist? Thanks!


I got best results by using default gamma 2.2 settings with speed set to low and profile quality at high, for white point i left it as measured even though you want 6500k but without built in RGB controls in the OSD thats not possible to get at a hardware level. Comparing calibrations with white point set to 6500k and as measured i got better grayscale DeltaE using as measured especially on whites. With 6500k i got 4+ delta error, as measured it was around 2-2.5.

EDIT: Dont forget to use the WLED correction file its something like White LED AC Samsung LG.


----------



## hanyolo

I just joined this thread to say that I just ordered 2 of the 2795qhd monitors from green-sum. They shipped same day and are scheduled to arrive next week. I bought a display port to DVI-D Active adapter (USB powered) to use with a GTX 970. Will report back on functionality.

Has anyone connected two of these to a dual monitor setup, specifically on a GTX 970?


----------



## Yviena

Im kinda undecided on which monitor to buy the QX2710 PLS or the Crossover 2795qhd i heard that the 2795 is a better panel with pixel response and color but im not really a fan of matte coating. i like the clear and sharp contrast of glossy monitors.


----------



## cookieboyeli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yviena*
> 
> Im kinda undecided on which monitor to buy the QX2710 PLS or the Crossover 2795qhd i heard that the 2795 is a better panel with pixel response and color but im not really a fan of matte coating. i like the clear and sharp contrast of glossy monitors.


Yea I'm having a hard time of it too.

My tossup is between the Crossover 2795 and the Crossover 27QW SAKWA http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/15027-best-27-2560x1440p-monitors-ahva-ips-pls.html#post1219709
That's got a plasma deposition coating which IMO is superior to glossy.

I OWN the QNIX QX 2710. I've had it for 2+ years. _It is NOT the better monitor._ Mine is PWM/flicker free and can OC to 120Hz, but unfortunately the newer ones are NOT the same and are of much lower quality, using PWM dimming. 120Hz isn't good on this monitor either, it doesn't skip frames like all the multi-input monitors do, but the colors are so washed out and there's so much motion blur the difference is... _not worth it._







Really. In addition, the persistence is so bad at 120Hz that you essentially can't keep it there for extended periods of time. You'll have to run a jscreenfix screensaver or else expect to see windows burned in for a hour or two after being up for <10 minutes.

Crossover 27QW SAKWA may not be the best choice though because the glass covers the bezel and reduced perceived black contrast, as well as PDC making the blacks look a little more greyish, although apparently the contrast and whites are so improved that it makes up for it everywhere except very dark scenes. Then again if you like viewing it with low brightness at night and have inverted web pages or run a dark high contrast theme in windows like I do it may not be as satisfying as a matte panel.

Really tough choice.

I'm probably going to go with whichever has less motion blur/better pixel response time for gaming since that's my issue right now. Someone asked me why I had pointer trails turned on and that was the last straw. lol (I don't!!!)
Unfortunately the chinese review for the Crossover 27QW doesn't have that same opinion or comparison from NCX/Menacing Tuba that makes tit easier to compare. I can't tell what the hell they're talking about half the time, I just want an expert's opinions to help me make my choice! Too bad he didn't review the 27QW or 27QW SAKWA...


----------



## Yviena

One other concern i have about the crossover would probably be future compatibility, the Fury X already has no dvi connectors,

I'm kinda afraid that AMD/Nvidia will phase out the dvi connectors and start supplying only DP/HDMI cards, tho on another note the holy grail of gaming monitors has come for those with deep pockets 120hz 4K OLED from Dell maybe in 2017-2020 we will get affordable oled gaming monitors. At least i hope so...


----------



## cookieboyeli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yviena*
> 
> One other concern i have about the crossover would probably be future compatibility, the Fury X already has no dvi connectors,
> 
> I'm kinda afraid that AMD/Nvidia will phase out the dvi connectors and start supplying only DP/HDMI cards, tho on another note the holy grail of gaming monitors has come for those with deep pockets 120hz 4K OLED from Dell maybe in 2017-2020 we will get affordable oled gaming monitors. At least i hope so...


Sweet! That means it'll be on the Korean marketplace just a short year or two afterward.


----------



## clause

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> I got best results by using default gamma 2.2 settings with speed set to low and profile quality at high, for white point i left it as measured even though you want 6500k but without built in RGB controls in the OSD thats not possible to get at a hardware level. Comparing calibrations with white point set to 6500k and as measured i got better grayscale DeltaE using as measured especially on whites. With 6500k i got 4+ delta error, as measured it was around 2-2.5.
> 
> EDIT: Dont forget to use the WLED correction file its something like White LED AC Samsung LG.


Alright, thanks for the input. Will give it a try later on!

Yeah shame that there is no software to persist the Red Green Blue and keep it that way and then applied the displaycal calibration.

Is that wled correction file given or is that something that I must source somewhere else ?


----------



## clerick

Is the multi monitor limiting to 60hz still an issue with nvidia drivers?


----------



## cookieboyeli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clerick*
> 
> Is the multi monitor limiting to 60hz still an issue with nvidia drivers?


Lol funny you should ask that 10 seconds after I read the answer.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club/300_100#post_24895055

I'll let you know if that problem is unsolvable BTW.


----------



## clerick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookieboyeli*
> 
> Lol funny you should ask that 10 seconds after I read the answer.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club/300_100#post_24895055
> 
> I'll let you know if that problem is unsolvable BTW.


Oh it's not the power state that i worry about but the monitor being unable to OC if you have past 358 drivers installed if you are using multi screens.


----------



## cookieboyeli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clerick*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cookieboyeli*
> 
> Lol funny you should ask that 10 seconds after I read the answer.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club/300_100#post_24895055
> 
> I'll let you know if that problem is unsolvable BTW.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh it's not the power state that i worry about but the monitor being unable to OC if you have past 358 drivers installed if you are using multi screens.
Click to expand...

Yea I know what you meant. I was saying there are other issues with multi-screens too.

Afaik that has been fixed. I know it was an issue for many users for a while there but I'm 95% sure it's not anymore. There would be a metric buttload of complaining and angry ranting over on guru3d if that were the case lol


----------



## doco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yviena*
> 
> Im kinda undecided on which monitor to buy the QX2710 PLS or the Crossover 2795qhd i heard that the 2795 is a better panel with pixel response and color but im not really a fan of matte coating. i like the clear and sharp contrast of glossy monitors.


i was in a spot like you are until i saw this video on how bad the pwm is on this video. i like to turn my brightness down and this was a no go. 




you can always try to sell off the monitor whenever the next flavor of the month glossy PWM/flicker free 1440p overclock korean monitor comes along. that's what i plan to do. well, I want OLED but that ain't sensible for the next few years.


----------



## defhed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookieboyeli*
> 
> Yea I'm having a hard time of it too.
> 
> My tossup is between the Crossover 2795 and the Crossover 27QW SAKWA http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/15027-best-27-2560x1440p-monitors-ahva-ips-pls.html#post1219709
> That's got a plasma deposition coating which IMO is superior to glossy.
> 
> I OWN the QNIX QX 2710. I've had it for 2+ years. _It is NOT the better monitor._ Mine is PWM/flicker free and can OC to 120Hz, but unfortunately the newer ones are NOT the same and are of much lower quality, using PWM dimming. 120Hz isn't good on this monitor either, it doesn't skip frames like all the multi-input monitors do, but the colors are so washed out and there's so much motion blur the difference is... _not worth it._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really. In addition, the persistence is so bad at 120Hz that you essentially can't keep it there for extended periods of time. You'll have to run a jscreenfix screensaver or else expect to see windows burned in for a hour or two after being up for <10 minutes.
> 
> Crossover 27QW SAKWA may not be the best choice though because the glass covers the bezel and reduced perceived black contrast, as well as PDC making the blacks look a little more greyish, although apparently the contrast and whites are so improved that it makes up for it everywhere except very dark scenes. Then again if you like viewing it with low brightness at night and have inverted web pages or run a dark high contrast theme in windows like I do it may not be as satisfying as a matte panel.
> 
> Really tough choice.
> 
> I'm probably going to go with whichever has less motion blur/better pixel response time for gaming since that's my issue right now. Someone asked me why I had pointer trails turned on and that was the last straw. lol (I don't!!!)
> Unfortunately the chinese review for the Crossover 27QW doesn't have that same opinion or comparison from NCX/Menacing Tuba that makes tit easier to compare. I can't tell what the hell they're talking about half the time, I just want an expert's opinions to help me make my choice! Too bad he didn't review the 27QW or 27QW SAKWA...


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA90V3G61082
What is the difference between the 2795 and the 27QHD? I'm trying to find the best glossy monitor there is.


----------



## zeppoli

***!!! I've had this monitor for over a year, OC fine with all sorts of refresh rates, I updated to the new driver last night (980ti)
and now I can no longer overclock? when I try to set it and apply it just goes back again.

Never mind, I had to completely delete my old profile overclock and redo it.


----------



## bezzell

I'd like to update as well. Been around 8 months running 96hz, 24 hours a day. No problems and love it. The only issue i have is running Intel integrated graphics for a second monitor. It will not overclock unless both monitors are powered from the GPU and Intel is disabled in the bios. Worked fine with old Nvidia driver 358.50. Since then, can't use Intel integrated.

Everything else is perfect. I still sometimes get shocked by how beautiful some images or games look.


----------



## doco

i received mine earlier today in the morning. it is easily the best purchase i've made on a monitor yet. no dead/stuck/bright pixels and minimal ips glow with slight blb on the top right. i'm going to try and see if i can fix the blb a little when i take the housing off. best of all is no gamma shift and image retention when overclocking. that bugged me a bit on the qnix 2710. i'm comfortable with 96hz for the time being.

i was really worried about the matte coating, but my fears were put to rest after seeing it. it's a thin matte coat grain free (as far as i can tell) and i'd like to say it is almost semi-glossy, but not quite semi-glossy if that makes sense. it is somewhere in between.

btw mine was a pixel perfect from helloemart. it is funny since the ebay listing says it ships from south korea but it actually shipped from rancho dominguez, ca. i'm not complaining since it took 1 day to get it delivered to me.


----------



## clause

Hi guys,

So my second monitor is here and I'm actually looking for a sturdier arm to hold these 2 monitors together.

Something like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252107878122

However since from what I can see this monitor weight is 7kg, that arm will not be able to hold it.

So do anyone have any recommendation for a vesa desk stand that sit on the desk instead of clamp on the edges?

I'm looking for one that can hold 2 and height adjustable. If anyone have any recommendation please please do let me know!


----------



## bezzell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clause*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> So my second monitor is here and I'm actually looking for a sturdier arm to hold these 2 monitors together.
> 
> Something like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252107878122
> 
> However since from what I can see this monitor weight is 7kg, that arm will not be able to hold it.
> 
> So do anyone have any recommendation for a vesa desk stand that sit on the desk instead of clamp on the edges?
> 
> I'm looking for one that can hold 2 and height adjustable. If anyone have any recommendation please please do let me know!


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NLEW9JM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

I've been using this one. Super sturdy, all metal. Works great. I think they make a standing version and a clamp version.


----------



## Seanb2uk

Mine arrived today after a LONG delivery time of 11 days since payment. The box showed up BATTERED, the delivery driver even commented saying this looks damaged. (Delivery company in the UK was TNT.)

I was not charged any added tax.

Once I got it setup I noticed the frame damaged on the top and HUGE amounts of backlight bleed. Literally massive amounts, covering 50% of the top of the screen and a big patch on the bottom as well.

Photos here:


http://imgur.com/uxnoY


I messaged the seller (dream-seller) on ebay and included all the photos in the album above and explained that its clearly damaged in the exact part of the monitor that the box has been battered.

Any ideas if they aren't co-operative?

Thanks Guys


----------



## EffOne

I've been following this thread and I haven't quite found an answer to this. Looking to upgrade my main monitor and was wondering what the different between the Crossover 2795 QHD and the "*New CROSSOVER 27QHD AHIPS LED 27"LG IPS 2560X1440 QHD Computor Monitor *Matte**" found here from Green-sum. Just looking for a 1440p gaming monitor with the ability to OC close to 100Hz. It seems those who have the Crossover 2795 really can't hit the 120Hz stable and usually drop down to 96Hz or less than 110Hz. Since this monitor advertises as a single input DVI and flicker free (No PWM) and is priced less than the 2795, just wanted to get some feedback on this.


----------



## d3ity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanb2uk*
> 
> Mine arrived today after a LONG delivery time of 11 days since payment. The box showed up BATTERED, the delivery driver even commented saying this looks damaged. (Delivery company in the UK was TNT.)
> 
> I was not charged any added tax.
> 
> Once I got it setup I noticed the frame damaged on the top and HUGE amounts of backlight bleed. Literally massive amounts, covering 50% of the top of the screen and a big patch on the bottom as well.
> 
> Photos here:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/uxnoY
> 
> 
> I messaged the seller (dream-seller) on ebay and included all the photos in the album above and explained that its clearly damaged in the exact part of the monitor that the box has been battered.
> 
> Any ideas if they aren't co-operative?
> 
> Thanks Guys


That damage is ridiculous. But just wait on a reply from dream-seller. I used green-sum myself, who was great to work with, but I've heard similarly good things about dream-seller. Clearly that damage is unacceptable and I'd expect him to give you a full refund and pay your return shipping.

Even if he's less cooperative the great news is this is eBay, which bends over backwards for buyers.


----------



## Failuyr

I saw that a few people have debezelled this monitor when reading through the thread, but didn't see any measurement of the new size. Do any of you happen to have the measurement of the bezel size after you completed the project?


----------



## sverek

Got mine 2795 QHD from amazon dealer. Love it so far. It does feel great to step up into 1440p / 96hz world.
Playing Killing Floor 2 on that, was trully a new experience.

I have only 1 issue. In left middle of the screen I have grayish area.


http://imgur.com/BxPcF


It's small and can only be found on bright colors. I ran JScreenFix overnight and it still exists. (Guess panel damage or layer problem)
It doesn't bother me, I forget about it most of the times, but if there anyway to fix it, I would appreciate the input.

Thank you!


----------



## defhed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EffOne*
> 
> I've been following this thread and I haven't quite found an answer to this. Looking to upgrade my main monitor and was wondering what the different between the Crossover 2795 QHD and the "*New CROSSOVER 27QHD AHIPS LED 27"LG IPS 2560X1440 QHD Computor Monitor *Matte**" found here from Green-sum. Just looking for a 1440p gaming monitor with the ability to OC close to 100Hz. It seems those who have the Crossover 2795 really can't hit the 120Hz stable and usually drop down to 96Hz or less than 110Hz. Since this monitor advertises as a single input DVI and flicker free (No PWM) and is priced less than the 2795, just wanted to get some feedback on this.


I'm no expert but I think the difference is the 27QHD doesn't overclock. They are both AHIPS single input with no on screen display. Someone correct me if they know. Or the best thing to do would be to PM the OP MenacingTuba as that guy knows everything about all these korean monitors and is very nice and helpful.


----------



## DiNet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanb2uk*
> 
> Mine arrived today after a LONG delivery time of 11 days since payment. The box showed up BATTERED, the delivery driver even commented saying this looks damaged. (Delivery company in the UK was TNT.)
> 
> I was not charged any added tax.
> 
> Once I got it setup I noticed the frame damaged on the top and HUGE amounts of backlight bleed. Literally massive amounts, covering 50% of the top of the screen and a big patch on the bottom as well.
> 
> Photos here:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/uxnoY
> 
> 
> I messaged the seller (dream-seller) on ebay and included all the photos in the album above and explained that its clearly damaged in the exact part of the monitor that the box has been battered.
> 
> Any ideas if they aren't co-operative?
> 
> Thanks Guys


Please don't forget to update us on this!


----------



## Seanb2uk

Carrying on from my previous post yesterday,

Dream-seller replied with this:

"Hello, first of all we are really sorry for your inconvenience. I think it damaged during delivery. In this case we should claim to TNT. Could you please send us the photo of box and product in details?(We attached our e-mail address) Sorry for the inconvenience once again. Warmest regards,"

So I edited some of the photos, retook some and added annotations to make it VERY clear to them the problems.

Heres the photos I sent them on top of the other album full:



http://imgur.com/pRr6C


So now i'm waiting for their next step. This could drag on...


----------



## defhed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanb2uk*
> 
> Carrying on from my previous post yesterday,
> 
> Dream-seller replied with this:
> 
> "Hello, first of all we are really sorry for your inconvenience. I think it damaged during delivery. In this case we should claim to TNT. Could you please send us the photo of box and product in details?(We attached our e-mail address) Sorry for the inconvenience once again. Warmest regards,"
> 
> So I edited some of the photos, retook some and added annotations to make it VERY clear to them the problems.
> 
> Heres the photos I sent them on top of the other album full:
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/pRr6C
> 
> 
> So now i'm waiting for their next step. This could drag on...


Nice batman wallet dork


----------



## d3ity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defhed*
> 
> Nice batman wallet dork


Hey, I like his wallet!


----------



## Warrimonk

Just ordered one of these monitors from dream-seller to Canada. Can't wait to try it out. This will be my first monitor above 1080p/60Hz


----------



## EffOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defhed*
> 
> I'm no expert but I think the difference is the 27QHD doesn't overclock. They are both AHIPS single input with no on screen display. Someone correct me if they know. Or the best thing to do would be to PM the OP MenacingTuba as that guy knows everything about all these korean monitors and is very nice and helpful.


Thanks


----------



## clerick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warrimonk*
> 
> Just ordered one of these monitors from dream-seller to Canada. Can't wait to try it out. This will be my first monitor above 1080p/60Hz


I'm in Canada as well and ordered from dream seller. Ordered one on the 15th, it shipped out on the 18th and i'm waiting on tracking to update (tracking hasn't updated since the 19th, korea post says it landed in vancouver and was on its way to toronto, nothing since). Canadapost just says waiting to receive item in Canada (doesn't seem like the system realizes it's been there for 5 days).

Wondering whether it's stuck in customs processing, but hoping i will hear some news on it this week from the tracking.


----------



## doublin

I just bought the *2795QHD* from dreamseller and coming from a TN panel(*Dell ST2410b*), I'm pretty disappointed. After reading reviews about IPS/PLS panel in general being a night and day difference compared to a TN panel in terms of picture quality/colour accuracy, etc, I compared the Crossover with my Dell and it doesn't have that much difference(I downloaded several QHD wallpaper with variety of colours just to compare, and used this website for some single colour comparison) aside from the white being a bit whiter and some wallpaper being a little sharper on the Crossover. I don't know whether I got a TN panel Crossover or my expectation is just too high or it have to be calibrated first, I kinda regret not getting a standard 144hz monitor instead because of my curiousity towards IPS/PLS panel.

As for the refresh rate, my Dell is somehow clocked at 75hz(I thought it was 60hz before I bought the Crossover) so the 96hz on the Crossover is barely noticable especially in games like Dota 2 and Global Offensive(turned off Vsync and set the maximum FPS to 96) which is the only games I play. The only time I notice it is when I slowly drag a File Explorer around and that's about it. I checked Blurbuster for UFO test and the frameskipping stuff and it is already at 96fps.

The only thing I like is the resolution increase between 1080p to 1440p which is quite nice and spacious and I guess the text is a bit better compared to the Dell but that's about it. Anyway this is just my experience, so if I somehow set my monitor wrongly(not calibrating or somehow my monitor is not overclocked properly), do point me on the right direction so that I can somehow fix it. Also, the panel I got arrived with only 1 black dead pixel and backlight bleeding on all 4 corners though I don't think it's that serious.

Here's some picture that I took to compare the colour difference between the Crossover and the Dell. Not sure whether I got a bad panel or my Dell is just a very good TN panel monitor because I don't see much difference between the two.


----------



## doco

doublin, you try all the ICC profiles on the first page? i'm using the 2.2 gamma ICC profile with 1 brightness click down from maximum brightness. YMMV.


----------



## doublin

doco, I downloaded the same profile as you suggested and after applying using this step and restarting the PC, i still failed to see any noticable difference. If you or anyone have a WQHD wallpaper that might show the IPS/PLS picture quality to full potential, I'd be glad to try it. Also, I managed to overlock the Crossover to 110hz from the original 96hz and comparing with my 75hz dell, it's still barely noticable so that's a bummer.


----------



## clerick

Received it today, not sure what to think. I have a TN S27a950D (120hz) and the whites and brightness on that looks far brighter/whiter. The 2795 seems dull and yellow in comparison (the whites dont look white to me).


----------



## DirkDaring

does anyone know which monitor driver to use with the 2795? Is there one specific for it or can I use the qnix one?

edit: and is it necessary? currently sitting at 100hz no problems yet except a slight flicker on windows buttons.


----------



## doco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirkDaring*
> 
> does anyone know which monitor driver to use with the 2795? Is there one specific for it or can I use the qnix one?
> 
> edit: and is it necessary? currently sitting at 100hz no problems yet except a slight flicker on windows buttons.


you'll want to use any of the OC .inf files.

"As an example, without that driver, some games may run at 60Hz even if you have 96Hz or 120hz set in your NVCP. But with that driver the games will be able to tell that your monitor is capable of 96Hz, 120Hz etc."


----------



## DirkDaring

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> you'll want to use any of the OC .inf files.
> 
> "As an example, without that driver, some games may run at 60Hz even if you have 96Hz or 120hz set in your NVCP. But with that driver the games will be able to tell that your monitor is capable of 96Hz, 120Hz etc."


danke, wish there was a crossover specific one though


----------



## Seanb2uk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defhed*
> 
> Nice batman wallet dork


Don't be jealous mate!


----------



## Th3Guardian

The people that have moved to this monitor from a QX2710, how do you figure?

Wondering whether it's worth it, 27" 1440p to 27" 1440p.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th3Guardian*
> 
> The people that have moved to this monitor from a QX2710, how do you figure?
> 
> Wondering whether it's worth it, 27" 1440p to 27" 1440p.


If you are new to overclocked 1440p Korean panels the 2795 is the model to get, you can be assured there is no PWM diming! But there is no reason to move from a QNIX to this monitor unless you know you suffer from PWM diming ... all of the newer (L07) Qnix's seem to now have PWM ... But if you have an older (L02) without PWM and certainly if your lucky enough to have a true "Glossy" version, the 2795 might even be a downgrade as many of the older QNIX'S easily overclocked to 120Hz where the 2795 is more consistent in the 96-110Hz range and you cannot get the 2795 in a glossy version


----------



## doco

max overclock i got so far was is 106hz when playing around with monitor timings (nvidia). it seems the 2795 freaks out if i go past the 425mhz pixel clock. i know the qnix is much more tolerable for going past that range and even a little past 450mhz pixel clock.


----------



## Th3Guardian

Yes exactly I'm on 110Hz on my qnix. Tomcat, what icc profile/calibration you using? And how many clicks of brightness? I'm on max brightness, because isn't anything less too dark already?


----------



## NadavCE

Is there any way to OC the 2795 with Crimson drivers? Using 15.11 works fine, can't seem to figure out how to OC on Crimson though.


----------



## Malinkadink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Is there any way to OC the 2795 with Crimson drivers? Using 15.11 works fine, can't seem to figure out how to OC on Crimson though.


Try using the custom resolution utility perhaps?


----------



## Dradus

Does anyone else have a problem with the monitor flashing on and off in random intervals when it should be sleeping? It only happens when my PC is shut off.


----------



## clerick

It just occurred to me:

on the ebay auction where i got my 2795 there is a "low bluelight" listed as a feature:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/331605525779?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Is this why my screen sorta has a yellow tint natively (and eve after adjusting colors whites dont look exactly white)?

Would removing the AG film help with this?


----------



## clerick

Dissembled the monitor, the disassemble was the same as the qnix 2710 (same casing).

Towels are now n for AG removal, will let you guys know how it turns out


----------



## doco

i wish you godspeed, clerick!


----------



## clerick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> i wish you godspeed, clerick!


It's been 4 hours (soaked it twice now). Did a quick check, used a clean razor to gently lift a corner, and it started to come off with little resistance. I'm still gonna wait another 4 hours though.


----------



## clerick

All done. It's like a totally new monitor. 1440p looks proper now, it's clear and crisp and the yellow hue is gone (so i guess in the end it was the blue light stopper anti glare coating). Its like my s27a950d only at a higher res, browsing regular pages even at 0% zoom doesn't hurt my eyes anymore because the grain effect is gone as well.

Some pics including film (if i stick my face straight into it everything has a slight yellow hue).


----------



## Yviena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clerick*
> 
> All done. It's like a totally new monitor. 1440p looks proper now, it's clear and crisp and the yellow hue is gone (so i guess in the end it was the blue light stopper anti glare coating). Its like my s27a950d only at a higher res, browsing regular pages even at 0% zoom doesn't hurt my eyes anymore because the grain effect is gone as well.
> 
> Some pics including film (if i stick my face straight into it everything has a slight yellow hue).


This is why i no longer buy any matte monitors, i decided to buy the 27QW Sakwa with PDC coating instead of a Crossover/Qnix. kinda sad that almost all the 1440p+ ips monitors are matte.
I only found 2 monitors that are 1440p+ ips and use glossy or pdc coating and that is the 5K Imac/Dell.


----------



## Malinkadink

Hmmm interesting, gonna probably take the matte coating off my montior as well and calibrate it again and see how it looks. I know when i did it to the VG248QE the difference was huge, this monitor not having a very heavy coating i didn't really bother, but it looks like even light matte does have a pretty noticeable effect. While im at it i may also sand down the glossy bezel and paint it matte to enhance perceived blacks.


----------



## doco

good stuff, clerick. i would try it myself but i would be very paranoid about leaving the polarizer exposed over a very long period.

you can always try to put another protective layer over it. i came across this site from the thread which started the "remove matte coatings" movement.
http://www.photodon.com/p/8000-01.html

it looks like MXA or MXC is the recommendation to have a glossy protection layer.


----------



## Sjqnqo3876

edit


----------



## NadavCE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> Try using the custom resolution utility perhaps?


Obviously. I used the CRU, I just couldn't find a place in the Catalyst settings to set the refresh rate. Previously, it was available under "My digital flat panels" or a similar setting.


----------



## Malinkadink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> good stuff, clerick. i would try it myself but i would be very paranoid about leaving the polarizer exposed over a very long period.
> 
> you can always try to put another protective layer over it. i came across this site from the thread which started the "remove matte coatings" movement.
> http://www.photodon.com/p/8000-01.html
> 
> it looks like MXA or MXC is the recommendation to have a glossy protection layer.


I wouldn't worry about having an exposed polarizer layer for a long period of time, nothing is going to happen to it, just take care when cleaning it, use a soft microfiber cloth with a little bit of lukewarm water to wash away any dirt/derbies and then dry with another microfiber cloth. To be honest even with such care you'll still scratch it. When i had my VG248QE it had a ton of little microscratches, but it wasn't ever visible when the monitor was on and being used, and even with it off you wont see anything unless you put a bright light on the screen, so essentially those tiny scratches are a non issue. I had the dematted VG248QE for about a year before i got rid of it and upgraded to the crossover.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NadavCE*
> 
> Obviously. I used the CRU, I just couldn't find a place in the Catalyst settings to set the refresh rate. Previously, it was available under "My digital flat panels" or a similar setting.


Have you tried right click desktop, going to screen resolution, advanced settings, monitor tab, and then changing the refresh rate from there?


----------



## rccsr

Does anyone else seem to have a problem where games don't recognize your refresh rate and run at 60hz, and others that screen tear at the upper third of the monitor? It's really frustrating.

Also the monitor flickers at -4 brightness. PWM?

I have my monitor running at 96hz via nVidia Control Panel, with a 144hz monitor as a secondary. I'm using a gigabyte gtx 970 as well.


----------



## Malinkadink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rccsr*
> 
> Does anyone else seem to have a problem where games don't recognize your refresh rate and run at 60hz, and others that screen tear at the upper third of the monitor? It's really frustrating.
> 
> Also the monitor flickers at -4 brightness. PWM?
> 
> I have my monitor running at 96hz via nVidia Control Panel, with a 144hz monitor as a secondary. I'm using a gigabyte gtx 970 as well.


I also have mine flicker at one of the brightness settings, its not PWM, just something wrong with the power delivery its getting at that setting. I dont recall any games giving me issues in not running at 100hz, or locking me to 60hz, unless the game itself is locked at 60fps.


----------



## Warrimonk

Should be getting my monitor today! So pumped to see how it looks. Removing the AG coating is tempting...... since my current monitor is a Sony PS3 3D Display, which is a super glossy VA panel type. The colours look amazing but the response time and ghosting are terrible (especially in the break black-grey of Skyrim, it looks like the blacks "streak" across the display when i move fast).

It seems like everyone can hit around 96+Hz when overclocking.... is it best to stay within a multiple of 6 in order to keep the frame scaling smoothest? (eg 90hz, 96hz, 102hz) or does it not really matter as long as the game supports the proper framerate?

ALSO update for any other potential Canadian buyers. I ended up getting charged about $67 in imports and taxes, so make sure you account for the extra costs.


----------



## clerick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warrimonk*
> 
> Should be getting my monitor today! So pumped to see how it looks. Removing the AG coating is tempting...... since my current monitor is a Sony PS3 3D Display, which is a super glossy VA panel type. The colours look amazing but the response time and ghosting are terrible (especially in the break black-grey of Skyrim, it looks like the blacks "streak" across the display when i move fast).
> 
> It seems like everyone can hit around 96+Hz when overclocking.... is it best to stay within a multiple of 6 in order to keep the frame scaling smoothest? (eg 90hz, 96hz, 102hz) or does it not really matter as long as the game supports the proper framerate?
> 
> ALSO update for any other potential Canadian buyers. I ended up getting charged about $67 in imports and taxes, so make sure you account for the extra costs.


Weird, i'm in Canada as well and didn't have any import charges (ordered from dream seller). Let me know if you see any kind of yellow hue.


----------



## lester007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warrimonk*
> 
> Should be getting my monitor today! So pumped to see how it looks. Removing the AG coating is tempting...... since my current monitor is a Sony PS3 3D Display, which is a super glossy VA panel type. The colours look amazing but the response time and ghosting are terrible (especially in the break black-grey of Skyrim, it looks like the blacks "streak" across the display when i move fast).
> 
> It seems like everyone can hit around 96+Hz when overclocking.... is it best to stay within a multiple of 6 in order to keep the frame scaling smoothest? (eg 90hz, 96hz, 102hz) or does it not really matter as long as the game supports the proper framerate?
> 
> ALSO update for any other potential Canadian buyers. I ended up getting charged about $67 in imports and taxes, so make sure you account for the extra costs.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clerick*
> 
> Weird, i'm in Canada as well and didn't have any import charges (ordered from dream seller). Let me know if you see any kind of yellow hue.


Well it depends what carrier they picked, I bought last 6months ago from greensum DHL charge me 58CAD for import charges.
Hope you like the purchase!


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clerick*
> 
> All done. It's like a totally new monitor. 1440p looks proper now, it's clear and crisp and the yellow hue is gone (so i guess in the end it was the blue light stopper anti glare coating). Its like my s27a950d only at a higher res, browsing regular pages even at 0% zoom doesn't hurt my eyes anymore because the grain effect is gone as well.
> 
> Some pics including film (if i stick my face straight into it everything has a slight yellow hue).


*Wow, that's BEAUTIFUL!!*! ... +R









Now I can officially say the 2795 has a "Glossy" option ... something I could never live without!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> I wouldn't worry about having an exposed polarizer layer for a long period of time, nothing is going to happen to it, just take care when cleaning it, use a soft microfiber cloth with a little bit of lukewarm water to wash away any dirt/derbies and then dry with another microfiber cloth. To be honest even with such care you'll still scratch it. When i had my VG248QE it had a ton of little microscratches, but it wasn't ever visible when the monitor was on and being used, and even with it off you wont see anything unless you put a bright light on the screen, so essentially those tiny scratches are a non issue. I had the dematted VG248QE for about a year before i got rid of it and upgraded to the crossover.


QFT ... +R







... BUT I would add to use "Distilled Water" only ... there are a ton of "impurities" in tap water and even in regular bottled water








... YMMV


----------



## Warrimonk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lester007*
> 
> Well it depends what carrier they picked, I bought last 6months ago from greensum DHL charge me 58CAD for import charges.
> Hope you like the purchase!


I ordered mine from dream-seller as well. He shipped it via UPS and it went Korea->Alaska->Kentucky -> Ontario.

Missed the UPS guy due to work and now I have to wait until tomorrow to get it







gotta be strong









EDIT: Ended up getting it today, gorgeous monitor! No dead pixels, just some backlight bleed in 3/4 of the corners, nothing too serious

overclocking it now, so far at 108Hz with no issues.

UD: 110Hz seems fine, 114 causes artifacting

I found something very interesting. It seems the Korean Crossover official webpage shows our monitors officially supporting 100Hz overclock as a standard feature, check this out: http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=2795QHD


----------



## PWPersian

I recentley purchased a 2795 qhd from green-sum on ebay, when i recieved the order It came with a 2795 box as well as the sticker on the back, I went into nvidia control panel only to see it was named as a 27qhd to attempt to add a custom resolution to overclock it, however no matter how many different things I tried from using CRU with custom settings to using the driver from the qnix to try and make sure itd allow to overclock, nothing would work. So this comes down to my question did I get jipped or am I just doing something wrong?


----------



## bezzell

What GPU do you use?


----------



## PWPersian

GTX 970, after some more trouble shooting it seems that I am near an idiot, however what is happening is that in single monitor mode it runs fine infact I got it up to 102 hz however it seems when I plug in my smaller 1080p AOC screen nvidia control panel snaps back into 60 hz mode and wont come out of it.


----------



## bezzell

You can't overclock dual monitors using NVIDIA and integrated intel graphics. If you run both monitors off the 970, overclocking works. At least mine does.

You don't need monitor drivers or CRU. Just use custom resolutions in Nvidia control panel.


----------



## PWPersian

Ya I have not been attempting to overclock 2 I am keeping my auxillary display at 60hz and trying to bump up the crossover, both are plugged into the 970.


----------



## clerick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PWPersian*
> 
> Ya I have not been attempting to overclock 2 I am keeping my auxillary display at 60hz and trying to bump up the crossover, both are plugged into the 970.


You need to first patch the pixel clock to allow it to do that.

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/thread-nvidia-pixel-clock-patcher


----------



## Malinkadink

So i took the dive and removed the matte coating on mine, came out flawlessly, really makes a difference even if the matte coating it used was a fairly light one. Would have posted pics but its been a long day so im lazy







Still need to run another proper calibration and see if it will make any difference with things being glossy now.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> So i took the dive and removed the matte coating on mine, came out flawlessly, really makes a difference even if the matte coating it used was a fairly light one. Would have posted pics but its been a long day so im lazy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still need to run another proper calibration and see if it will make any difference with things being glossy now.


How did you do it? Laying it on wet paper towels for a few hours or some other way? And when was the purchase date? Pre10/14 when they were shipping the properly constructed original PLS 02 panels?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> So i took the dive and removed the matte coating on mine, came out flawlessly, really makes a difference even if the matte coating it used was a fairly light one. Would have posted pics but its been a long day so im lazy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still need to run another proper calibration and see if it will make any difference with things being glossy now.


*+R ...*









*Welcome to the "True Glossy" ... A·fi·ci·o·na·do Club ... night n day difference for the PQ Aficionados*


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> How did you do it? Laying it on wet paper towels for a few hours or some other way? And when was the purchase date? Pre10/14 when they were shipping the properly constructed original PLS 02 panels?


Sorry, I mistook this as the Qnix thread.


----------



## strykn

Any step by step instructions to remove the matte coating? Don't wanna *** up my monitor lol


----------



## PWPersian

Alright, anyone have any tips, I patched the Pixel Clock and Tried multiple other solutions however it seems as soon as my second DVI monitor is enabled it automatically sets it to 60hz and does not allow me to change it. I also have tried CRU custom extension blocks as well as DDU. I am running out of ideas...


----------



## DirkDaring

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PWPersian*
> 
> Alright, anyone have any tips, I patched the Pixel Clock and Tried multiple other solutions however it seems as soon as my second DVI monitor is enabled it automatically sets it to 60hz and does not allow me to change it. I also have tried CRU custom extension blocks as well as DDU. I am running out of ideas...


Are you plugging in both monitors to dvi on a solo card?


----------



## Malinkadink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> *+R ...*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Welcome to the "True Glossy" ... A·fi·ci·o·na·do Club ... night n day difference for the PQ Aficionados*


One thing i noticed though is when looking down at the monitor up close theres this grainy looking effect like a heavy matte coating on a white backdrop, any idea what that is? Normal viewing position its not visible, but i noticed this on my VG248QE as well when i had that and removed the matte coating.


----------



## PWPersian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirkDaring*
> 
> Are you plugging in both monitors to dvi on a solo card?


Yes two seperate DVI slots on 1 gtx 970.


----------



## bezzell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PWPersian*
> 
> Yes two seperate DVI slots on 1 gtx 970.


That may be your problem. I'm not sure. I run DVI to the 2795 and HDMI to a 1080p 60hz panel both coming from a GTX 970. With that configuration I can overclock just the 2795 to 110hz no problem. This is using NV Control panel only. No monitor drivers or CRU.

I used to run 110hz from the 970, and used the integrated Intel GPU to run the second 1080p 60hz monitor. The last nvidia driver that that config worked was 358.50. Any driver after that, I was not able to utilize Intel integrated for the second monitor while overclocking the Crossover. I had to run both monitors from the 970 to overclock.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> *+R ...*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Welcome to the "True Glossy" ... A·fi·ci·o·na·do Club ... night n day difference for the PQ Aficionados*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing i noticed though is when looking down at the monitor up close theres this grainy looking effect like a heavy matte coating on a white backdrop, any idea what that is? Normal viewing position its not visible, but i noticed this on my VG248QE as well when i had that and removed the matte coating.
Click to expand...

Extreme top view/angle, monitor on with a solid white background? Nope, that's new to me. Polorizer maybe? No worries really if it doesn't effect normal viewing angles. I can't see it on either of my screens (std glossy) ... maybe give "cleric" a PM *HERE* and see if he notices it?


----------



## DirkDaring

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PWPersian*
> 
> Yes two seperate DVI slots on 1 gtx 970.


the dvi slots share resources (something like this but i'm too inebriated atm to give you a proper explanation), use the dp or hdmi for one and let the crossover on dvi hog it and see if that solves your issue.


----------



## Malinkadink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Extreme top view/angle, monitor on with a solid white background? Nope, that's new to me. Polorizer maybe? No worries really if it doesn't effect normal viewing angles. I can't see it on either of my screens (std glossy) ... maybe give "cleric" a PM *HERE* and see if he notices it?


I can take a guess as to what it is, the backlight is sandwiched right up to the polarizer and the backlight has a sparkly look to it especially at an angle. If you've ever taken apart a monitor all the way and seperated the panel layers out you'd see it when you looked at the backlighting component.


----------



## clerick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Extreme top view/angle, monitor on with a solid white background? Nope, that's new to me. Polorizer maybe? No worries really if it doesn't effect normal viewing angles. I can't see it on either of my screens (std glossy) ... maybe give "cleric" a PM *HERE* and see if he notices it?


Yep i see it too if i look directly from the top down, but don't notice it in front view at all.


----------



## Face this

Hello, Which Dvi cable did used to hit 120Hz ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majikfx*
> 
> Okay! So my monitor arrived today. No dead pixels that I can notice and as far as I can tell, no backlight bleed. In the control panel it also says 27QHD and I've overclocked it to 110Hz and I could possibly hit 120Hz with another DVI cable.


----------



## Dubious

Hey Everyone,

I've been looking around for a new monitor and from what I gather, CrossOver 2795 QHD, is currently the best option to get (instead of the QNIX QX2710). Since I live in Canada, the only viable option for me is to get: CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor

Has anyone bought the CrossOver linked above? I had a few questions:
1. Is it Flicker-Free? It doesn't say that on the website, should I confirm with the seller?
2. Does it overclock to 96Hz easily without frame-skipping/artifacts, etc?
3. Is there a way to control the "low bluelight" feature mentioned on the seller's website? if it's always on won't it have a yellow-ish tint?
4. The "Non-Glare" coating, how does it compare to the regular Matte screen, or are they the same?
5. How about is the motion blur on this monitor compared to the QNIX QX2710?
6. Is the 6ms response time (CrossOver) significantly better in practice than QNIX's 8ms response time? or is that a marketing gimmick?

Any sort of help on this would be greatly appreciated







.

Thanks,
Dubi


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dubious*
> 
> Hey Everyone,
> 
> I've been looking around for a new monitor and from what I gather, CrossOver 2795 QHD, is currently the best option to get (instead of the QNIX QX2710). Since I live in Canada, the only viable option for me is to get: CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor
> 
> Has anyone bought the CrossOver linked above? I had a few questions:
> 1. Is it Flicker-Free? It doesn't say that on the website, should I confirm with the seller?
> 2. Does it overclock to 96Hz easily without frame-skipping/artifacts, etc?
> 3. Is there a way to control the "low bluelight" feature mentioned on the seller's website? if it's always on won't it have a yellow-ish tint?
> 4. The "Non-Glare" coating, how does it compare to the regular Matte screen, or are they the same?
> 5. How about is the motion blur on this monitor compared to the QNIX QX2710?
> 6. Is the 6ms response time (CrossOver) significantly better in practice than QNIX's 8ms response time? or is that a marketing gimmick?
> 
> Any sort of help on this would be greatly appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Thanks,
> Dubi


Hi, I also want to buy one of these but I alslo like glossy qx2710. I know it has PWM but if used at 100% brighntness it should be flicker free. It's cheaper as well. So i dont know, qnix use some newer version of samsung pls panel which is actually worse than its predecesor but it should have less glow than its LC counterpart used in crossover.

Ad far as i know crossover is flicker free. Also the coating would be like on other 1440p screens - not very hard.

Damn, only if I would know what to do


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dubious*
> 
> Hey Everyone


Read the first post.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Hi, I also want to buy one of these but I alslo like glossy qx2710. I know it has PWM but if used at 100% brighntness it should be flicker free. It's cheaper as well. So i dont know, qnix use some newer version of samsung pls panel which is actually worse than its predecesor but it should have less glow than its LC counterpart used in crossover.
> 
> Ad far as i know crossover is flicker free. Also the coating would be like on other 1440p screens - not very hard.
> 
> Damn, only if I would know what to do


The first page should have all the info you need.


----------



## Dubious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Read the first post.


I've actually read the first page, but thanks again for referring me to it.









The product page is in Korean, the review is in Korean. It does have info about the PWN dimming - yes but there's not a whole lot of information available about this monitor. But anyway, I specifically asked if anyone has bought that particular item from Ebay, because there are items that are only available for people in the US and may differ to the ones they offer outside of US.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dubious*
> 
> I've actually read the first page


If you have then I can't figure out why you think the monitor you linked to on eBay is different from the one mentioned in the first post which I just updated with more information to prevent future confusion. There is 1 monitor, the Crossover 2795 QHD which has faster pixel response times than the Qnix/X-Star PLS panels and does not use LED PWM Dimming which ruins motion clarity...ect. Also, this thread contains many posts from people who purchased the 2795 QHD.

The Crossover over-clocks to at least 96hz, does not drop frames and does not have a Low Blue Light feature. The review I linked to is the only proper (in depth) review, and Playwares offers some of the most in depth tests on the internet.


----------



## Dubious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> If you have then I can't figure out why you think the monitor you linked to on eBay is different from the one mentioned in the first post....


Thanks for the info. Really do appreciate it.

The reason I think it may be different (not saying it is) because the product page that you linked in your first post, does not mention the "low bluelight", as you've also confirmed in your post above. However, the ebay link DOES mention "low bluelight". So I was just trying to confirm that's all.


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dubious*
> 
> Thanks for the info. Really do appreciate it.
> 
> The reason I think it may be different (not saying it is) because the product page that you linked in your first post, does not mention the "low bluelight", as you've also confirmed in your post above. However, the ebay link DOES mention "low bluelight". So I was just trying to confirm that's all.


I've bought glossy Qnix 2710 at the end. PWM is not an issue for me as I can use 100% brightness all the time. This one has 250 - 300 cd/m2 so it's just fine for me. And it's 50$ cheaper. I don't like dim panels







For low bluelight you can use f.lux. Not issues at all. And anyways single input DVI monitors does not have any image post-processing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> The first page should have all the info you need.


Yes, I've read it but I did not seek for any answer here


----------



## Dubious

Thanks misiak!

Yeah I'm actually currently using the QNIX 2710 (Matte). It's really good, but the motion blur in FPS games (during quick movements) is quite noticeable, so I'm hoping the CrossOver is better in that regard. I might just order one to try it out and see if I like it.

Now... Pixel Perfect or no Pixel Perfect is the real question


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dubious*
> 
> Thanks misiak!
> 
> Yeah I'm actually currently using the QNIX 2710 (Matte). It's really good, but the motion blur in FPS games (during quick movements) is quite noticeable, so I'm hoping the CrossOver is better in that regard. I might just order one to try it out and see if I like it.
> 
> Now... Pixel Perfect or no Pixel Perfect is the real question


I decided to go without pixel perfect so I pray every day







So do you have 2710 ? Is that blur really so bad ? When did you order yours ? Do you know the panel revision ? The last revisions are 8ms or somewhere it is declared as 6ms so it should be not so bad. Does your panel have PWM ? Crossover use LG AH-IPS panel so this should be definitely faster.


----------



## Dubious

Heh.. hope your prayers are accepted







. Who was your seller? I bought my QNIX from accessorieswhole. Ordered mine two weeks ago QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel

The blur isn't THAT bad but coming from a TN panel (ASUS VG248QE) it did definitely bother me.
Yes my panel has PWM. Confirmed (took a picture, saw the flicker).


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dubious*
> 
> Heh.. hope your prayers are accepted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Who was your seller? I bought my QNIX from accessorieswhole. Ordered mine two weeks ago QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel
> 
> The blur isn't THAT bad but coming from a TN panel (ASUS VG248QE) it did definitely bother me.
> Yes my panel has PWM. Confirmed (took a picture, saw the flicker).


Yes, I bought from accessorieswhole as well







Well, if you are comming from TN nothing can compete, only those 144Hz AUO panels are close but that LG won't be much better than PLS from Samsung.

Btw, is that PWM so bad ? Does it bother you ? I suppose on 100% brightness it should be flicker fee. Where do you from and how fast did you get the panel from Korea ?

Btw, did you get without bad pixels ? what about BLB and glow ? Did you buy off grade panel ?


----------



## Dubious

Noiice!

The CrossOver is similar to the QNIX, but I'm hoping the better response time will help with the motion blur. But yeah still debating if I should order one and maybe sell this QNIX.

PWM isn't that bad.. it hasn't caused any eye-strain or headaches or anything. Plus like you said if you set it to 100% then there is no issue, but it does become very bright.
I'm from Toronto, Canada. I ordered the QNIX on Thursday it appeared on my doorstep the following Monday.
I prayed too, and had 0 dead pixels. w00t







I've got some BLB on the bottom left corner, but it's not very noticeable, and no I did not buy the off grade panel.

When did you order yours? When is it scheduled to arrive?


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dubious*
> 
> Noiice!
> 
> The CrossOver is similar to the QNIX, but I'm hoping the better response time will help with the motion blur. But yeah still debating if I should order one and maybe sell this QNIX.
> 
> PWM isn't that bad.. it hasn't caused any eye-strain or headaches or anything. Plus like you said if you set it to 100% then there is no issue, but it does become very bright.
> I'm from Toronto, Canada. I ordered the QNIX on Thursday it appeared on my doorstep the following Monday.
> I prayed too, and had 0 dead pixels. w00t
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got some BLB on the bottom left corner, but it's not very noticeable, and no I did not buy the off grade panel.
> 
> When did you order yours? When is it scheduled to arrive?


That was a pretty fast shipping







I've ordered Thursday evening and it is scheduled Monday next week. But seller did not dispatch it yet, only ceeated a request at FedEx. I think Crossover could be max. 3ms faster so it's not that much. But you comming from TN every ms is precious









For you the best would be those IPS from AOU with 5ms but they are plagued with issues.

Don't know what to expect from this Qnix but I'm so desperate I had to try this







I'm expecting a disaster but who knows







I'm especially curious at that glossy screen. Now I have Eizo and it has crazy grainy coating.

Ah, so no off grade, I wondered because you have sent a link with off grade panel 

Btw would you mind to take some photos of yours and place here pictures? Thx


----------



## Dubious

You're right, oops, mixed up my links. I actually bought: QNIX.

Yeah I'm curious about the glossy ones as well. Hope you enjoy yours!

and sure i'll take a few pictures later today and post them here or upload there somewhere and link them to you.


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dubious*
> 
> You're right, oops, mixed up my links. I actually bought: QNIX.
> 
> Yeah I'm curious about the glossy ones as well. Hope you enjoy yours!
> 
> and sure i'll take a few pictures later today and post them here or upload there somewhere and link them to you.


Perfect, thx









Why didn't you order glossy one then ?









I never had PLS panel so don't know what to expect from it. I had many AUO and all were painfull. Then I had LG 1440p and this was the best, unfortunatelly couldn't be OCed and I can't stand 60Hz anymore


----------



## Dubious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Perfect, thx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why didn't you order glossy one then ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never had PLS panel so don't know what to expect from it. I had many AUO and all were painfull. Then I had LG 1440p and this was the best, unfortunatelly couldn't be OCed and I can't stand 60Hz anymore


Not a huge fan of glossy, so went with Matte.

Sent you a PM with pictures.


----------



## The Indefinite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clerick*
> 
> I think i know what you mean. It looks sorta smeared if you're looking at the screen indirectly like top to bottom. You can alleviate that by ordering a sheet of crystal clear coating and placing it on top where the old matte used to be.


Any idea where I can find that?

And did you use one for the 2795?


----------



## BenDaMAN

I just received my Crossover 2795QHD from Dreamseller on ebay. Monitor was packed extremely well and there was no damage to the box what-so-ever.

No dead pixels found in my testing, and there seems to be very little backlight bleed at all. I will post a photo tonight to show the results.

Overclocked stably to 96Hz with the cheapie DVI-D cable included in the box. Waiting on a gold plated 28AWG cable to arrive as i can't get much higher without pixels flashing green incorrectly and things looking a bit wonky.

I will now happily repeat what many others have said; Wow this panel looks incredible! The colours really pop off the screen so to speak. High bitrate video and Games look simply gorgeous at 1440P.
So far i've only got a chance to play a bit of Rocket League and Just Cause 2 on Ultra settings at 96 fps. The difference in fluidity and motion is real and i noticed it straight away.
My wife had a bit of a look and she noticed the nicer colours, but didn't really seem to notice the smoother video experience. At this point i couldn't be happier with my purchase; even if it can't get much above 100Hz, it won't bother me. 96Hz will obviously be more ideal for blu-ray and video playback anyway, so if that's all i can get out of it, no worry at all.


----------



## Malinkadink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenDaMAN*
> 
> I just received my Crossover 2795QHD from Dreamseller on ebay. Monitor was packed extremely well and there was no damage to the box what-so-ever.
> 
> No dead pixels found in my testing, and there seems to be very little backlight bleed at all. I will post a photo tonight to show the results.
> 
> Overclocked stably to 96Hz with the cheapie DVI-D cable included in the box. Waiting on a gold plated 28AWG cable to arrive as i can't get much higher without pixels flashing green incorrectly and things looking a bit wonky.
> 
> I will now happily repeat what many others have said; Wow this panel looks incredible! The colours really pop off the screen so to speak. High bitrate video and Games look simply gorgeous at 1440P.
> So far i've only got a chance to play a bit of Rocket League and Just Cause 2 on Ultra settings at 96 fps. The difference in fluidity and motion is real and i noticed it straight away.
> My wife had a bit of a look and she noticed the nicer colours, but didn't really seem to notice the smoother video experience. At this point i couldn't be happier with my purchase; even if it can't get much above 100Hz, it won't bother me. 96Hz will obviously be more ideal for blu-ray and video playback anyway, so if that's all i can get out of it, no worry at all.


Enjoy it, i've had mine since january and have since removed the AG coating as well as calibrated the thing which thankfully removed the green tint mine had. I still need to paint the bezels and stand matte to really help the display look its absolute best. For $300 i can wholeheartedly say its the best $300 i've ever spent on a display. I have mine set to 100hz, anything higher starts introducing artifacts, but most intensive games dont even come close to 100fps on a single 970.


----------



## Dubious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenDaMAN*
> 
> I just received my Crossover 2795QHD from Dreamseller on ebay. Monitor was packed extremely well and there was no damage to the box what-so-ever.
> 
> No dead pixels found in my testing, and there seems to be very little backlight bleed at all. I will post a photo tonight to show the results.
> 
> Overclocked stably to 96Hz with the cheapie DVI-D cable included in the box. Waiting on a gold plated 28AWG cable to arrive as i can't get much higher without pixels flashing green incorrectly and things looking a bit wonky.
> 
> I will now happily repeat what many others have said; Wow this panel looks incredible! The colours really pop off the screen so to speak. High bitrate video and Games look simply gorgeous at 1440P.
> So far i've only got a chance to play a bit of Rocket League and Just Cause 2 on Ultra settings at 96 fps. The difference in fluidity and motion is real and i noticed it straight away.
> My wife had a bit of a look and she noticed the nicer colours, but didn't really seem to notice the smoother video experience. At this point i couldn't be happier with my purchase; even if it can't get much above 100Hz, it won't bother me. 96Hz will obviously be more ideal for blu-ray and video playback anyway, so if that's all i can get out of it, no worry at all.


Nice! Congrats man! Did you order the PixelPerfect one? Did your come with the Anti-Glare coating?


----------



## BenDaMAN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> Enjoy it, i've had mine since january and have since removed the AG coating as well as calibrated the thing which thankfully removed the green tint mine had. I still need to paint the bezels and stand matte to really help the display look its absolute best. For $300 i can wholeheartedly say its the best $300 i've ever spent on a display. I have mine set to 100hz, anything higher starts introducing artifacts, but most intensive games dont even come close to 100fps on a single 970.


Thanks mate. I paid just under $400 AUD because of the current exchange rate and boy i couldn't be happier. My mate bought a used 27" Asus ROG Swift for $700 AUD, and the Crossover has significantly better colours and performs very similarly at [email protected] in most circumstances. I'm running a single overclocked EVGA GTX 980 @ 1500Mhz core and i feel like this is more than enough power, well at least at this point in time. I'm interest in painting the bezels, but unsure if it's worth it for gaming and general use.

Just wondering, did you replace the cheapie DVI-D cable with a 28AWG or 24AWG cable?


----------



## Malinkadink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenDaMAN*
> 
> Just wondering, did you replace the cheapie DVI-D cable with a 28AWG or 24AWG cable?


I didn't replace my cable per say, i'm using the cable that came with my VG248QE which is a bit thicker than the one this monitor came with. I'm at a stable 100hz, and around 102hz+ i start seeing flickering artifacts. Maybe getting a thick 24AWG would let me get a little bit more out of the monitor but at best i might get like 105hz and i don't think thats really worth it.

EDIT: I'm actually interested in trying one of these 24AWG monoprice cables, i've read that the thickness and quality of the cable is only part of the puzzle for getting a higher OC. Shorter length cables supposedly provide a significant Hz boost. Most people tend to get the 6 ft cable, but i could manage with the 3ft one if i throw my tower on the desk where i have plenty of room so i may try that.


----------



## BenDaMAN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> EDIT: I'm actually interested in trying one of these 24AWG monoprice cables, i've read that the thickness and quality of the cable is only part of the puzzle for getting a higher OC. Shorter length cables supposedly provide a significant Hz boost. Most people tend to get the 6 ft cable, but i could manage with the 3ft one if i throw my tower on the desk where i have plenty of room so i may try that.


Yeah that would be interesting. Normally i would think that shortening the cable would only lower electrical resistance a negligible amount, especially on a 24AWG cable.
I'm only at 96Hz, but i will occasionally see up to 20 green pixels flash when there is certain colours on screen, They are pretty much always close to the right hand end of the screen.

Actually that's the main reason i have opted to get a better quality cable, unfortunately 24AWG cable are like $40 here in Aus. So i just opted for a 28AWG for $9, which should be good enough for 96Hz 24/7, or maybe i'll get a higher overclock, i will come post my results when the cable arrives.


----------



## Malinkadink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenDaMAN*
> 
> Yeah that would be interesting. Normally i would think that shortening the cable would only lower electrical resistance a negligible amount, especially on a 24AWG cable.
> I'm only at 96Hz, but i will occasionally see up to 20 green pixels flash when there is certain colours on screen, They are pretty much always close to the right hand end of the screen.
> 
> Actually that's the main reason i have opted to get a better quality cable, unfortunately 24AWG cable are like $40 here in Aus. So i just opted for a 28AWG for $9, which should be good enough for 96Hz 24/7, or maybe i'll get a higher overclock, i will come post my results when the cable arrives.


I just went ahead and ordered from monoprice a 6ft 24AWG cable $17.66 shipped, the 3ft is currently out of stock so i may get that one later depending on how this 6ft one pans out. Should have it by the weekend if i'm lucky. My maximum overclock on the current cable is 102hz and i dont notice any flickering/artifacts occurring anywhere, but i run it at 100hz just so i'm not completely on the edge. Even if this cable will let me only get 105hz stable i'd be pretty happy with that slight bump. 110hz would be an epic gain, and i dont expect to get any higher than that if even that high.


----------



## MenacingTuba

It's still possible to buy the overclock-able T-Cons for 75$ ish US from Tao Bao plus shipping, but there's no grantee they will overclock to 120hz. The Overlord overclocking kits are also still available from eBay and should work with this panel. I purchased two of the overclocking kits as well as two T-Cons previously to make two glossy Yamakasi equivalents, one of which (Yamakasi with 120hz OC) is up for sale. I can't remember if I tested two or three of the T-Cons, but one definitely maxed around 110hz.


----------



## The Indefinite

Just ordered the 2795QHD, I hope I made the right decision.


----------



## NightJourney17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> It's still possible to buy the overclock-able T-Cons for 75$ ish US from Tao Bao plus shipping, but there's no grantee they will overclock to 120hz. The Overlord overclocking kits are also still available from eBay and should work with this panel. I purchased two of the overclocking kits as well as two T-Cons previously to make two glossy Yamakasi equivalents, one of which (Yamakasi with 120hz OC) is up for sale. I can't remember if I tested two or three of the T-Cons, but one definitely maxed around 110hz.


I would love to go with a crossover 2795QHD however one thing that is holding me back is that I cannot find a glossy version. That is my limiting factor and seeing that the QNIX 2710 has glossy screens, I might just have to go with them even though they have the flicker problem.
Is anyone aware of a 2795QHD glossy version?

I saw the asking price of your yamakasi and it is about $200+ than a Qnix 2710 so I wouldn't be able to spend that amount.


----------



## The Indefinite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NightJourney17*
> 
> I would love to go with a crossover 2795QHD however one thing that is holding me back is that I cannot find a glossy version. That is my limiting factor and seeing that the QNIX 2710 has glossy screens, I might just have to go with them even though they have the flicker problem.
> Is anyone aware of a 2795QHD glossy version?
> 
> I saw the asking price of your yamakasi and it is about $200+ than a Qnix 2710 so I wouldn't be able to spend that amount.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NightJourney17*
> 
> I would love to go with a crossover 2795QHD however one thing that is holding me back is that I cannot find a glossy version. That is my limiting factor and seeing that the QNIX 2710 has glossy screens, I might just have to go with them even though they have the flicker problem.
> Is anyone aware of a 2795QHD glossy version?
> 
> I saw the asking price of your yamakasi and it is about $200+ than a Qnix 2710 so I wouldn't be able to spend that amount.


I think the coating on this is lighter, but still would love a glossy one.

I'm thinking of removing the AG Coating, I'm just wondering if the trade off is worth it.


----------



## NightJourney17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Indefinite*
> 
> I think the coating on this is lighter, but still would love a glossy one.
> 
> I'm thinking of removing the AG Coating, I'm just wondering if the trade off is worth it.


How about the Crossover 27QHD. Can that be overclocked to 96hz?


----------



## Malinkadink

Got the 6ft 24AWG Monoprice cable in, people aren't kidding, this thing is huge. Hooked it up and i was able to what it seemed get a 103hz overclock, but every now and then i saw the occasional flicker. This was an improvement from my previous cable that had artifacts appear more frequently, but i still went and backed it down to 102hz which the old cable was capable of handling as well.

I can say that there definitely is an improvement with a quality cable, but that improvement will depend on the quality of the cable you already have to begin with. Myself i was using a cable that came with a VG248QE for 1080p 144hz operation, and this monoprice cable is barely better if even that when you consider its large size making it cumbersome.

I'm curious to see if the 3ft cable would show any improvements, but if i were to guess i'd wager maybe i could get anywhere from 103-105hz and be stable with the shorter cable. I've already spent $18 for this cable and spending another $10~ just doesn't seem worth it for a potential couple extra hz.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NightJourney17*
> 
> How about the Crossover 27QHD. Can that be overclocked to 96hz?


No, but you can probably make it overclock-able with the overclocking T-Con and PCB combo.


----------



## FYBsomething

Where do people find out what panel is on which model? I can't read Korean but a couple of my Korean friends weren't even sure it was listed so I am assuming there is some aggregator website that lists panels used in various brands/models?


----------



## bezzell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FYBsomething*
> 
> Where do people find out what panel is on which model? I can't read Korean but a couple of my Korean friends weren't even sure it was listed so I am assuming there is some aggregator website that lists panels used in various brands/models?


We basically depend on somebody purchasing one, cracking it open, and giving us the details.


----------



## BenDaMAN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> Got the 6ft 24AWG Monoprice cable in, people aren't kidding, this thing is huge. Hooked it up and i was able to what it seemed get a 103hz overclock, but every now and then i saw the occasional flicker. This was an improvement from my previous cable that had artifacts appear more frequently, but i still went and backed it down to 102hz which the old cable was capable of handling as well.
> 
> I can say that there definitely is an improvement with a quality cable, but that improvement will depend on the quality of the cable you already have to begin with. Myself i was using a cable that came with a VG248QE for 1080p 144hz operation, and this monoprice cable is barely better if even that when you consider its large size making it cumbersome .


That's cool, thanks for all the info, really appreciate it. Based on the fact that i'm currently using the cheap crap cable that came with the 2795qhd at 96Hz.
I'm going to guess that i will get at least 100hz with the better cable i ordered, link is below. I guess we'll see, i'm really hoping that it arrives today.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261933409681?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## BenDaMAN

The new DVI-D Dual Link cable that i received seems to be faulty. It turns the monitor on when i power on the PC, but i get absolutely no signal, even at 60Hz.
The seller has sent me an additional cable free of charge, so fingers crossed it works this time. Bit annoyed that i now have to wait even longer for another cable.


----------



## Malinkadink

Just out of curiosity does anyone own one of the 1440p 144hz monitors? regardless if its TN or IPS, and have it next to the 2795QHD? How big of a difference in motion fluidity is there with the 144hz? I had a MG279Q for a day but i didnt compare the monitor to the crossover, however i did notice with the Asus that it felt far far more responsive when i gave some input ingame.


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> Just out of curiosity does anyone own one of the 1440p 144hz monitors? regardless if its TN or IPS, and have it next to the 2795QHD? How big of a difference in motion fluidity is there with the 144hz? I had a MG279Q for a day but i didnt compare the monitor to the crossover, however i did notice with the Asus that it felt far far more responsive when i gave some input ingame.


I had 8 of them. Those are definitely faster and I can feel pretty big difference between 100Hz and 144Hz. There have higher refresh rate but also twice faster response time. At 100Hz you should not feel too much difference though. But image quality is far better on Koreans. I've gave up on those AUO crap and bought Qnix and I'm super happy. Image quality and the price is a dream.


----------



## mejobloggs

For all those removing AG coating, and those set on buying glossy....

How do you deal with the reflections?? I had a glossy qnix for 2 months and just couldn't stand it. So many distracting reflections no matter how I position it or teak light levels


----------



## Malinkadink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mejobloggs*
> 
> For all those removing AG coating, and those set on buying glossy....
> 
> How do you deal with the reflections?? I had a glossy qnix for 2 months and just couldn't stand it. So many distracting reflections no matter how I position it or teak light levels


Completely dark room with a bias light is how i deal with it


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mejobloggs*
> 
> For all those removing AG coating, and those set on buying glossy....
> 
> How do you deal with the reflections?? I had a glossy qnix for 2 months and just couldn't stand it. So many distracting reflections no matter how I position it or teak light levels


I have oposite problem - I bought glossy and cannot stand mate anymore :-D I have no problems at all with reflections you have to acustomed to it. The image is georgeous. But maybe it is because I have everything glossy at home - tv, ipads, mobiles - all glossy.

One good advice is to place a monitor in front of window and not behind.


----------



## Baconeo

Where are the guides on fixing backlight bleed (couldn't see them in the OP), when no lights are on and I am playing in a dark game I get really bad backlight bleed.


----------



## The Indefinite

I tried the ICC profiles on this thread and they're all too yellow, I manually adjusted the colors and now it's perfect.

How do I use my windows color calibration on color sustainer? Did I even create an ICC profile after messing around with Windows calibrator?


----------



## sverek

Can you help me with overclocking 2795 to 96hz with Nvidia 970?
I did create custom 96hz resolution in Nvidia center and it works for desktop and some games (can select 96hz profile in Battlefield4).

But how do I tell other fullscreen games that doesn't have refresh rate options to run at 96hz? (Running in windowed obviously makes it 96hz)
Most fullscreen games just run at 60hz and with Vsync frames are capped at 60fps.

Thank you.


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sverek*
> 
> Can you help me with overclocking 2795 to 96hz with Nvidia 970?
> I did create custom 96hz resolution in Nvidia center and it works for desktop and some games (can select 96hz profile in Battlefield4).
> 
> But how do I tell other fullscreen games that doesn't have refresh rate options to run at 96hz? (Running in windowed obviously makes it 96hz)
> Most fullscreen games just run at 60hz and with Vsync frames are capped at 60fps.
> 
> Thank you.


Install monitor driver...


----------



## sverek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Install monitor driver...


I did googled it, but results didn't come up.

If you know driver location, please share.


----------



## Malinkadink

Just wanted to chime in once again, decided on getting a 3ft DL DVI Cable and hooking it up, took my 100hz stable OC to 104hz stable. Shorter cable definitely works.









EDIT: Noticed an occassional artifcat at 104hz so i backed it down to 103hz. Still a 3hz improvement. If you have your tower on your desk really close to the monitor then a 3 ft cable is definitely worth it to squeeze out some extra hz


----------



## BenDaMAN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> Just out of curiosity does anyone own one of the 1440p 144hz monitors? regardless if its TN or IPS, and have it next to the 2795QHD? How big of a difference in motion fluidity is there with the 144hz? I had a MG279Q for a day but i didnt compare the monitor to the crossover, however i did notice with the Asus that it felt far far more responsive when i gave some input ingame.


My best mate has the Asus ROG Swift 144Hz. I've seen it right next to mine and the clarity of fast motion at 144Hz&144fps together is simply wonderful, that is if your brain can tell the difference.
For me personally, i would say that motion clarity looked better, but the actual fluidity of motion looked very similar.

The colour on the Crossover is definitely superior, unless you got one with absolutely terrible amounts of backlight bleed.
I simply refuse to buy a 27" 1440P G-sync, Freesync or similar, until they are less than $400 USD/$500 AUD.


----------



## BenDaMAN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baconeo*
> 
> Where are the guides on fixing backlight bleed (couldn't see them in the OP), when no lights are on and I am playing in a dark game I get really bad backlight bleed.


I removed almost all of my Crossovers backlight bleed, just by taking off the bezel and clipping it back in to place and by not OVERtightening the four screws on the back when i reassembled.
I've heard some people say they left one or two screws really loose and that worked for them.

Here's the disassemble video i watched.


----------



## banerock138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> Just wanted to chime in once again, decided on getting a 3ft DL DVI Cable and hooking it up, took my 100hz stable OC to 104hz stable. Shorter cable definitely works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Noticed an occassional artifcat at 104hz so i backed it down to 103hz. Still a 3hz improvement. If you have your tower on your desk really close to the monitor then a 3 ft cable is definitely worth it to squeeze out some extra hz


hmmm. im using a 10ft cable. it can do 110hz but i see little flickers now and again in the bottom left corner. 96hz is perfectly fine.

wonder if switching to a 6ft cable will help me do 110hz without any flickering? 

I ordered my monitor on ebay, from greensum, on sunday night. Got to my house in SD Tuesday morning. I found one dead pixel in the lower left. and 2 or 3 stuck pixels in the upper left. all fairly spaced out so not very noticeable. overall i am very pleased with my purchase.


----------



## Malinkadink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenDaMAN*
> 
> My best mate has the Asus ROG Swift 144Hz. I've seen it right next to mine and the clarity of fast motion at 144Hz&144fps together is simply wonderful, that is if your brain can tell the difference.
> For me personally, i would say that motion clarity looked better, but the actual fluidity of motion looked very similar.
> 
> The colour on the Crossover is definitely superior, unless you got one with absolutely terrible amounts of backlight bleed.
> I simply refuse to buy a 27" 1440P G-sync, Freesync or similar, until they are less than $400 USD/$500 AUD.


Just yesterday i bought the MG279Q for $500, not quite $400, but i think $500 is a fair price for the specs of this monitor, and not a penny more. Unfortunately i got some dead pixels in and around the center of the screen so i'll be looking to get a replacement, but otherwise its a solid upgrade over the 2795qhd


----------



## banerock138

96hz







110hz






Seems ok to me, unless i did something wrong lol


----------



## BenDaMAN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *banerock138*
> 
> I ordered my monitor on ebay, from greensum, on sunday night. Got to my house in SD Tuesday morning. I found one dead pixel in the lower left. and 2 or 3 stuck pixels in the upper left. all fairly spaced out so not very noticeable. overall i am very pleased with my purchase.


Hey just wondering if you have tried any of the known methods for unsticking pixels.

1. Try using a pixel flasher utility such as this one: http://udpix.free.fr/index.php?p=dl

2. Use a sealed microwave heatpack to apply some heat to the dead pixels.

3. Try using a pencil eraser and applying a decent amount of pressure on the stuck pixel, or tapping it with the eraser gradually harder.

You may even want to combine these techniques together to see if you can loosen and agitate the pixel enough to unstick it.


----------



## dzb87

Is there any seller with Crossover 2795QHD with *0 defects* perfect pixel guarantee?
I have found only offers with 0-3 bright dots... They don't treat deads as defects.


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzb87*
> 
> Is there any seller with Crossover 2795QHD with *0 defects* perfect pixel guarantee?
> I have found only offers with 0-3 bright dots... They don't treat deads as defects.


This perfect pixel guarantee 0 - 3 dead pixels is a joke







I've risked it without and I have no dead pixel, only one green stuck subpixel but it's hardly visible on pure black background only. Good to say here those AUO panels had much more green subpixels







I think you are OK if you buy without. You have to realize all these are B grade panels refused by Apple or Samsung. Therefore the price is so low. So you always need to count with possible blb, stuck/dead pixels or bad uniformity. And the stand is horrible


----------



## banerock138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzb87*
> 
> Is there any seller with Crossover 2795QHD with *0 defects* perfect pixel guarantee?
> I have found only offers with 0-3 bright dots... They don't treat deads as defects.


green sum on ebay is the go to guy right now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> This perfect pixel guarantee 0 - 3 dead pixels is a joke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've risked it without and I have no dead pixel, only one green stuck subpixel but it's hardly visible on pure black background only. Good to say here those AUO panels had much more green subpixels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think you are OK if you buy without. You have to realize all these are B grade panels refused by Apple or Samsung. Therefore the price is so low. So you always need to count with possible blb, stuck/dead pixels or bad uniformity. And the stand is horrible


pixel perfect was worth it to me. it was less than $10 more than the regular auction.

I bought this stand. http://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Single-Monitor-Adjustable-STAND-V001F/dp/B00MTWO5B2

pretty awesome. you have to crank down on some of the set screws. but its holding my monitor just fine.


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *banerock138*
> 
> green sum on ebay is the go to guy right now.
> pixel perfect was worth it to me. it was less than $10 more than the regular auction.
> 
> I bought this stand. http://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Single-Monitor-Adjustable-STAND-V001F/dp/B00MTWO5B2
> 
> pretty awesome. you have to crank down on some of the set screws. but its holding my monitor just fine.


I bought without pixel perfect and got 0 bad and only 1 stuck green pixel. For me it was 50$ more so I can't complain. But also green-sum's pixel perfect policy is ridiculous. For me pixel perfect means exactly 0 dead or stuck pixels - period. Anything else is not pixel perfect. In my opinion it is a gimmick.


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> I bought without pixel perfect and got 0 bad and only 1 stuck green pixel. For me it was 50$ more so I can't complain. But also green-sum's pixel perfect policy is ridiculous. For me pixel perfect means exactly 0 dead or stuck pixels - period. Anything else is not pixel perfect. In my opinion it is a gimmick.


:O what is his policy ? I ordered from him, and when telling him about my problems he sounded a bit reluctant to do anything, but in the end he offered me either a 50$ repair cost (like yeah sure I'm gonna find a repair guy here for 50, something that probably isn't even repairable on top of that lol ) then he finally offered me a replacement, and after some thinking I decided it was not worth it as my problem was only obvious in super super dark scenes.. and yea, I didn't wanna take the risk of having a worse screen or dead pixels (this one is perfect pixel no flaw)..

PS is this Vivo stand fully compatible with no modifications ?


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> :O what is his policy ? I ordered from him, and when telling him about my problems he sounded a bit reluctant to do anything, but in the end he offered me either a 50$ repair cost (like yeah sure I'm gonna find a repair guy here for 50, something that probably isn't even repairable on top of that lol ) then he finally offered me a replacement, and after some thinking I decided it was not worth it as my problem was only obvious in super super dark scenes.. and yea, I didn't wanna take the risk of having a worse screen or dead pixels (this one is perfect pixel no flaw)..
> 
> PS is this Vivo stand fully compatible with no modifications ?


Pixel Perfect is for him 0 ~ 1 bad pixels. Sorry, but pixel perfect is actually ZERO dead or stuck pixels. Good to mention here is that with these panels - either LG or Samsung there is very low change you get bad pixels. So that's why I think it's gimmick. I'm pretty sure sellers do not open each box and check for pixels. But it was already mentioned here by someone else. However, you can get much more other issues as serious BLB, smudges on screen, etc. Btw, what issue did you have ?


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *banerock138*
> 
> hmmm. im using a 10ft cable. it can do 110hz but i see little flickers now and again in the bottom left corner. 96hz is perfectly fine.
> 
> wonder if switching to a 6ft cable will help me do 110hz without any flickering?
> 
> I ordered my monitor on ebay, from greensum, on sunday night. Got to my house in SD Tuesday morning. I found one dead pixel in the lower left. and 2 or 3 stuck pixels in the upper left. all fairly spaced out so not very noticeable. overall i am very pleased with my purchase.


I have Qnix, but max stable clock without any artifacting I've achieved at 108Hz with reduced timings. So I use 100Hz 24/7. At 110Hz there were some flickering on some colors. Wonder if more quality cable could help or this is just a limit of the PCB. I could get 120Hz but adrtifacting is strong here.

Btw, those stuck pixels of yours, are they green ? Did you order pixel perfect ?


----------



## The Indefinite

So I finally have a color profile that I like and currently using Color Sustainer, does this work on every game?
I've heard that some games apply their own and these icc profile won't work? I normally might not see it as a problem but this monitor uncalibrated looks awful!


----------



## banerock138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> :O what is his policy ? I ordered from him, and when telling him about my problems he sounded a bit reluctant to do anything, but in the end he offered me either a 50$ repair cost (like yeah sure I'm gonna find a repair guy here for 50, something that probably isn't even repairable on top of that lol ) then he finally offered me a replacement, and after some thinking I decided it was not worth it as my problem was only obvious in super super dark scenes.. and yea, I didn't wanna take the risk of having a worse screen or dead pixels (this one is perfect pixel no flaw)..
> 
> *PS is this Vivo stand fully compatible with no modifications ?*


you just might need to find some shorter screws. i had one of those tv wall mount kits laying around in the garage and had a bunch of screws in blister packs.


----------



## banerock138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> I have Qnix, but max stable clock without any artifacting I've achieved at 108Hz with reduced timings. So I use 100Hz 24/7. At 110Hz there were some flickering on some colors. Wonder if more quality cable could help or this is just a limit of the PCB. I could get 120Hz but adrtifacting is strong here.
> 
> Btw, those stuck pixels of yours, are they green ? Did you order pixel perfect ?


yeah i bought the pixel perfect. it wasnt even $10 more than the regular auction. some sale or something going on.

i ended up having to return the last monitor. took a few days and I got my replacement. this one has a bit more backlight bleed. but only 1 black dot that wont go away. that makes it a dead pixel?


----------



## StrongForce

That's what I'm getting : http://www.overclock.net/g/a/1429568/official-crossover-2795-qhd-pwm-flicker-free-overclock-able-matte-1440p-ah-ips/ in that stalker scene it's very obvious (also the camera increases it a bit) and stalker is definately one of the only games where I would notice it, even GTA V at night I couldn't see the bar, but it's just annoying to purchase something and not get a perfect item !


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *banerock138*
> 
> yeah i bought the pixel perfect. it wasnt even $10 more than the regular auction. some sale or something going on.
> 
> i ended up having to return the last monitor. took a few days and I got my replacement. this one has a bit more backlight bleed. but only 1 black dot that wont go away. that makes it a dead pixel?


Yes, dead pixel is either black or white dot on the screen. So you were able return it ? For me it was not possible because I'm outside US so this would be expensive...


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> That's what I'm getting : http://www.overclock.net/g/a/1429568/official-crossover-2795-qhd-pwm-flicker-free-overclock-able-matte-1440p-ah-ips/ in that stalker scene it's very obvious (also the camera increases it a bit) and stalker is definately one of the only games where I would notice it, even GTA V at night I couldn't see the bar, but it's just annoying to purchase something and not get a perfect item !


That looks horrible on black, how can you live with that ? I would insist on replacement. I would like to have your level of tolerance


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> That looks horrible on black, how can you live with that ? I would insist on replacement. I would like to have your level of tolerance


Like I said in a more realistic scenario like GTA V (because stalker is very very dark) you can't even notice it, I'm lazy I didn't want to bother with the shipment etc, lol


----------



## The Indefinite

If you look closely there is a long line. Idk if I scratched my polarizer or not but this is annoying, it's not that noticeable if I sit at a reasonable distance but very if I move my head. Should I protect the polarizer with something?


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Indefinite*
> 
> If you look closely there is a long line. Idk if I scratched my polarizer or not but this is annoying, it's not that noticeable if I sit at a reasonable distance but very if I move my head. Should I protect the polarizer with something?


Are you sure it's the polarizer and not AG coating ?


----------



## The Indefinite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Indefinite*
> 
> Idk if I scratched my polarizer or not but this is annoying, it's not that noticeable if I sit at a reasonable distance but very if I move my head. Should I protect the polarizer with something?


I removed the AG coating. Is it okay if I leave it like this? someone told me to get a protect with a clear coating or something which idk where to get from.


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Indefinite*
> 
> I removed the AG coating. Is it okay if I leave it like this? someone told me to get a protect with a clear coating or something which idk where to get from.


Ah, then yes, seems to be polarizer scratched, how did it happen ? I have glossy Qnix and don't know if it uses different glass than version without AG coating but I don't have any protection. So I'm bit of afraid. I would say you can keep it without but be very careful when cleaning.


----------



## jlc2ay

Got a Crossover 2795 qhd in from green sum today. No dead pixels and very minimal back light bleed with 96 hz oc attained. However, the monitor power led on the front oscillates between red and blue when the display has power but no input. Any idea why or if this could mean something will fail prematurely? Don't really want to take another chance at the lottery if I can help it. TIA.


----------



## arrow0309

Hi, I may wanna join your 3d soon, I'm looking forward to get a new one as well, "refreshing" so my "old" (yet still OK) Q27P glossy.
I really want to taste his oc capabilities and put my (liquid cooled) 980 ti G1 (overclocked too) to work some more.
I know it can do at least 96hz, anything over that freq. is a free gift and I really like it.
I just want to ask you a couple of questions only:

1 - I this monitor having a "disturbing" film grainy anti glare coating (like medium or med to high one) cause I've just gave up using a brand new Asus Rog Swift PG278Q (a good TN but not enough for me) mostly because of its annoying grain glare coating.
2 - I've also had a quick look at the newer model, of a sleek design and (of course 144hz or only 75 on other versions) Crossover 27 (even S or V or the AHIPS AdobeRGB models). How about these models?
I mean, is the 2795 "at least" similar when it comes to its matte coating to the newer Crossover 27 (like a light anti glare or semi glossy)?
Or one of them is lighter and in that case I'd like to know which one it is less matte coated.









Thanks


----------



## GetTheMoney

Right now I have an AMD card and in the driver settings, I have it set to 6500K, with the EDID option unchecked. It looks great. However, when I check the EDID option, the screen turns a greenish hue. My question is, if I am switching to Nvidia, what will my screen look like? Does it use the EDID? Because I know Nvidia doesn't have a color temperature setting, so I'm not sure what this monitor would look like without that. If it matters, the 6500K/no EDID is the default setting for AMD.


----------



## 2jzom

hi,

anyone know how to solve this
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_azx93miVcYV0t4Y2dJQ05aWEk

Crossover mointor
R9 390
i7 4790k


----------



## clerick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2jzom*
> 
> hi,
> 
> anyone know how to solve this
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_azx93miVcYV0t4Y2dJQ05aWEk
> 
> Crossover mointor
> R9 390
> i7 4790k


Try another dvi cable or dvi slot on the gpu? If not it might be a broken monitor mainboard and you'll need to contact the seller to mail you a new one.


----------



## koomba

I had a couple questions, but first off I just wanted to say this thread and several others are awesome. I've been researching a ton about getting a new 1440p IPS monitor that will do over 60hz. Thanks to everyone who's posted, I picked up a bunch of info.

But anyways, I was curious if anyone who has used this monitor has also used the Qnix qx2710. In both cases I mean specifically the single input models that can OC.

They seem pretty similar, and both seem to be generally good overclockers. The only difference is I have read the 2795 does NOT use PWM lighting, whereas the Qnix model does.

Is that basically the only difference? Has anyone here used the Qnix, and was the PWM noticeable or bad?

I ask because I am ready to order, and have it narrowed down to these 2 models. I'm planning on ordering from green-sum, but the price difference is pretty significant. He has the 2795 listed for $290, and the qx2710 currently for $200. Is the 2795 worth a $90 premium? I can spend $300 if I need to, but if they are almost identical,I'm not sure it's worth almost 50% more than qx2710.

I'm really itching to get my new monitor, so any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koomba*
> 
> I had a couple questions, but first off I just wanted to say this thread and several others are awesome. I've been researching a ton about getting a new 1440p IPS monitor that will do over 60hz. Thanks to everyone who's posted, I picked up a bunch of info.
> 
> But anyways, I was curious if anyone who has used this monitor has also used the Qnix qx2710. In both cases I mean specifically the single input models that can OC.
> 
> They seem pretty similar, and both seem to be generally good overclockers. The only difference is I have read the 2795 does NOT use PWM lighting, whereas the Qnix model does.
> 
> Is that basically the only difference? Has anyone here used the Qnix, and was the PWM noticeable or bad?
> 
> I ask because I am ready to order, and have it narrowed down to these 2 models. I'm planning on ordering from green-sum, but the price difference is pretty significant. He has the 2795 listed for $290, and the qx2710 currently for $200. Is the 2795 worth a $90 premium? I can spend $300 if I need to, but if they are almost identical,I'm not sure it's worth almost 50% more than qx2710.
> 
> I'm really itching to get my new monitor, so any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


In a nutshell, it all comes down to PWM effects/concerns for you. For me the PWM effects of the newer L07 Qnix's 2710 (mine was a glossy model) drove me nuts, nice still picture but I had to sell it ... others like Misiak don't seem to be affected by PWM or the blurriness it causes in rapid movements in FPS type gaming. The bummer for the 2795 is it doesn't come in a glossy version, a deal killer for Glossy Aficionados like me and some others









Even if your not sure I'd still go with the 2795 for safety as returning these models to Korea without great expense is short of a miracle









EDIT: Just not to confuse you the QNIX in my signature is an older PWM Free model (Glossy L02) no longer available and it was a night n day difference for me comparing to the L07. ALSO if you really want/need a "Glossy" version check out (user) MenacingTuba's for sale ads, bit pricey but you get what you pay for and great service


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koomba*
> 
> I had a couple questions, but first off I just wanted to say this thread and several others are awesome. I've been researching a ton about getting a new 1440p IPS monitor that will do over 60hz. Thanks to everyone who's posted, I picked up a bunch of info.
> 
> But anyways, I was curious if anyone who has used this monitor has also used the Qnix qx2710. In both cases I mean specifically the single input models that can OC.
> 
> They seem pretty similar, and both seem to be generally good overclockers. The only difference is I have read the 2795 does NOT use PWM lighting, whereas the Qnix model does.
> 
> Is that basically the only difference? Has anyone here used the Qnix, and was the PWM noticeable or bad?
> 
> I ask because I am ready to order, and have it narrowed down to these 2 models. I'm planning on ordering from green-sum, but the price difference is pretty significant. He has the 2795 listed for $290, and the qx2710 currently for $200. Is the 2795 worth a $90 premium? I can spend $300 if I need to, but if they are almost identical,I'm not sure it's worth almost 50% more than qx2710.
> 
> I'm really itching to get my new monitor, so any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


I have Qnix glossy latest revision with PWM and it's not an issue for me at all. I was concerned about it but first I can't see it at all (only camera can confirm it) and second I use monitor always at 100% brightness and in this case PWM is completely disabled. Glossy version is fantastic (now I have a problem to look at monitor with AG coating) and in my opinion those $90 eur is not worth of it because this monitor is cheap anyway. So I vote for Qnix







I can go 110Hz without artifacting but I have 980Ti so with other card this could go higher I suppose.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> In a nutshell, it all comes down to PWM effects/concerns for you. For me the PWM effects of the newer L07 Qnix's 2710 (mine was a glossy model) drove me nuts, nice still picture but I had to sell it ... others like Misiak don't seem to be affected by PWM or the blurriness it causes in rapid movements in FPS type gaming. The bummer for the 2795 is it doesn't come in a glossy version, a deal killer for Glossy Aficionados like me and some others
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if your not sure I'd still go with the 2795 for safety as returning these models to Korea without great expense is short of a miracle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Just not to confuse you the QNIX in my signature is an older PWM Free model (Glossy L02) no longer available and it was a night n day difference for me comparing to the L07. ALSO if you really want/need a "Glossy" version check out (user) MenacingTuba's for sale ads, bit pricey but you get what you pay for and great service


Yes, strange I'm not affected because I'm very sensitive for things like this







But as I said I'm running at 100% brightness all the time so no PWM here







You could do the same and have glossy one







It's really gorgeous. Apple uses gloss for their devices and they know why. A mystery for me why there is so few glossy panels on the market. I don't know how L02 was, but L07 is still pretty good and I'm very critical to panels this time. I had lot of AUO trash, even some Dells or HP and this one is much better.


----------



## The Indefinite

Warning to anyone who wants to remove their coating, my monitor is getting scratches left and right, not very visible at a good distance but very visible up close. Either don't Remo love it or cover it with a clean coating


----------



## weaveR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlc2ay*
> 
> 96 hz oc attained.


Is it possible to actually get 96 hertz over Dual-link DVI at 1440p?


----------



## Foresight

So since this thread has been up for a while, has there been cases of overclocking creating problems?
I might overclock my monitor once I get a 1070/1080 but just wary since these monitors basically have no warranty.


----------



## BenDaMAN

Not that i have heard of.
There was absolutely no difference in operating temperatures between 60Hz and 96Hz. For power draw, there was only a difference of 3-5W.
For me this is totally acceptable, and i don't believe it will affect the lifespan of my monitor. I expect to get a 3-4 year life out of this monitor, which to me is completely acceptable, by then modern graphics card's will likely no longer include Dual Link DVI ports, rendering these monitors unusable without active DVI adapters.


----------



## weaveR

Yeah I've seen cards like the AMD Radeon RX 480 aren't coming with DVI ports anymore I hope NVIDIA doesn't follow suit I would like to be able to use this monitor without having to use an adapter that is if an adapter would even work I seem to recall reading on the ebay listing I brought my monitor from that it wouldn't work with adapters.


----------



## BenDaMAN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weaveR*
> 
> Is it possible to actually get 96 hertz over Dual-link DVI at 1440p?


Actually you can get up to 120Hz 1440P signal through a decent Dual Link DVI cable. Just not with these particular monitors.


----------



## Bored Games

Received about a week ago (1 week international shipping from bigclothcraft). I wasn't impressed after seeing the obnoxious rubbery AG coating on a PG279Q (in store), and obviously there's the price, which is ridiculous here in NZ.

There's an obvious warm green/yellow tint on the Crossover needing correcting in Windows or the Nvidia control panel. The ICC profile on page 29 only partially got rid of that.

No dead pixels, some minor light bleed from the bottom left corner but nothing of any concern.

Mine overclocked to 104Hz without artifacts.

I don't own any calibration tools, but here is my amateur attempt done by eye using Windows calibration settings in case it helps someone:

Refresh rate: 104Hz
Gamma: Default (2.2?)
Red: -5
Green: -6
Blue:-1

Does anyone know if there's a driver?
_
Edit: there is no driver..._


----------



## Bored Games

Edit: Managed an overclock of 110Hz with no artifacts using the following timings:



After getting the colour calibration about right and running at a noticeably smoother 110Hz (yeah you can tell the difference over 96Hz), I couldn't really be much happier with the monitor. There are a couple of build quality niggles, the bottom bezel lifts off a bit, the stupid sticker used to cover the non-functional button labels leaves a residue that's hard to get off, and the stand...but who cares. The devil logo looks kind of unique and I like the oddity/geek aspect of the brand, rather than something that screams 'I spent a ton of money'.

If anyone knows how to get this thing stable at 115Hz + please share.


----------



## loki993

So do these have PWM or not? The beginning says no, some of the listings say no but there were posts in this thread that stated some of the newer ones did in fact have PWM and maybe the changed. They were from a while ago though and sorry I can reference them the thread search is terrible...you search for PWM and it inexplicably includes the thread title so it just returns everything.

Also what is the average overclock on these?


----------



## Foresight

Is there a trend of which oc's better nvidia or amd?


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bored Games*
> 
> Edit: Managed an overclock of 110Hz with no artifacts using the following timings:
> 
> 
> 
> After getting the colour calibration about right and running at a noticeably smoother 110Hz (yeah you can tell the difference over 96Hz), I couldn't really be much happier with the monitor. There are a couple of build quality niggles, the bottom bezel lifts off a bit, the stupid sticker used to cover the non-functional button labels leaves a residue that's hard to get off, and the stand...but who cares. The devil logo looks kind of unique and I like the oddity/geek aspect of the brand, rather than something that screams 'I spent a ton of money'.
> 
> If anyone knows how to get this thing stable at 115Hz + please share.


Mmh I'll have to try these settings, who knows, with some luck !


----------



## Quesoblanco

nvm


----------



## Eaglez47

Hi,

I just got my 2795 and it is a big upgrade. The only problem is when I try to overclock it, I get vertical lines of various colors whenever I go above 60 hertz. Is there something I am missing to get it overclocked? I have used both the Catalyst Control Center and the CRU method. Hopefully this is something that can be corrected and not the monitor itself. It is the single input version.

Thanks for your help peeps


----------



## Malinkadink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglez47*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I just got my 2795 and it is a big upgrade. The only problem is when I try to overclock it, I get vertical lines of various colors whenever I go above 60 hertz. Is there something I am missing to get it overclocked? I have used both the Catalyst Control Center and the CRU method. Hopefully this is something that can be corrected and not the monitor itself. It is the single input version.
> 
> Thanks for your help peeps


Make sure you have the monitor connected to your GPU with a Dual-Link DVI cable using the Dual Link DVI output on the graphics card. It's also preferable if you can get your own high quality cable instead of using the one that came with the monitor.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2686

That one will do the trick.


----------



## Eaglez47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> Make sure you have the monitor connected to your GPU with a Dual-Link DVI cable using the Dual Link DVI output on the graphics card. It's also preferable if you can get your own high quality cable instead of using the one that came with the monitor.
> 
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2686
> 
> That one will do the trick.


Shouldn't the one that came with the monitor get to 96 Hz though? even if I go to 70 I get the vertical lines. I have a 7950 GPU (waiting for the 480). I guess I can wait until it comes out to see if it's a video driver problem, but I was expecting an easy overclock tbh. I might try to order the new cable after I really exhaust myself trying to figure this thing out. Thanks for the suggestion


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglez47*
> 
> Shouldn't the one that came with the monitor get to 96 Hz though? even if I go to 70 I get the vertical lines. I have a 7950 GPU (waiting for the 480). I guess I can wait until it comes out to see if it's a video driver problem, but I was expecting an easy overclock tbh. I might try to order the new cable after I really exhaust myself trying to figure this thing out. Thanks for the suggestion


Yes the Std cable should work fine ... try it on another rig if possible? Try a clean install of your drivers and OC utilities, follow the procedure(s) *HERE* ...

Now for the potential bad news ... the 480 doesn't come with a D-DVI port at all








The only possible solution may be a "powered" conversion cable? Some dual/triple monitor guys had success in the past ... many didn't with regards to overclocking: ... you might want to wait on purchasing the 480 when it comes available ... heck of a card $$$/performance, but what was AMD thinking building a high mid-range card with NO D-DVI port!


----------



## bezzell

The board parter, vendor cards should come with DVI-D/I. The reference design will not.


----------



## Eaglez47

Alright I'll try a clean install of everything. I was planning on waiting for the msi 480 anyway. I'll update when I get a chance to try it.


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Yes the Std cable should work fine ... try it on another rig if possible? Try a clean install of your drivers and OC utilities, follow the procedure(s) *HERE* ...
> 
> Now for the potential bad news ... the 480 doesn't come with a D-DVI port at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only possible solution may be a "powered" conversion cable? Some dual/triple monitor guys had success in the past ... many didn't with regards to overclocking: ... you might want to wait on purchasing the 480 when it comes available ... heck of a card $$$/performance, but what was AMD thinking building a high mid-range card with NO D-DVI port!


The board supports DVI. I'm sure one partner will add a dual link dvi port.


----------



## Eaglez47

Now that I think about it, my twin frozen III 7950 may not have a dual link dvi input.


----------



## BenDaMAN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglez47*
> 
> Now that I think about it, my twin frozen III 7950 may not have a dual link dvi input.


According to MSI's website, the Twin Frozr 7950 has one Dual Link DVI port.

Does the back of your card look like this?


----------



## Bored Games

I'm currently using the monoprice 6ft 24AWG DVI with this monitor but I still haven't managed to get it much beyond 110Hz without scan lines appearing all over the place.... ...so I wonder if anyone's managed to get this to120hz, and if so whether they would like to share the custom timings.


----------



## pastuch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglez47*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I just got my 2795 and it is a big upgrade. The only problem is when I try to overclock it, I get vertical lines of various colors whenever I go above 60 hertz. Is there something I am missing to get it overclocked? I have used both the Catalyst Control Center and the CRU method. Hopefully this is something that can be corrected and not the monitor itself. It is the single input version.
> 
> Thanks for your help peeps


You need to use CRU to hack the AMD driver (EDID Override) in order to overclock your monitor. Unlike Nvidia, AMD do not offer custom resolutions and EDIDs through their driver interface.

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU


----------



## brucethemoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastuch*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Eaglez47*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I just got my 2795 and it is a big upgrade. The only problem is when I try to overclock it, I get vertical lines of various colors whenever I go above 60 hertz. Is there something I am missing to get it overclocked? I have used both the Catalyst Control Center and the CRU method. Hopefully this is something that can be corrected and not the monitor itself. It is the single input version.
> 
> Thanks for your help peeps
> 
> 
> 
> You need to use CRU to hack the AMD driver (EDID Override) in order to overclock your monitor. Unlike Nvidia, AMD do not offer custom resolutions and EDIDs through their driver interface.
> 
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU
Click to expand...

That, and you also need to use the AMD pixel clock patcher, and make sure to set everything at "LCD standard".


----------



## Tgrove

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastuch*
> 
> You need to use CRU to hack the AMD driver (EDID Override) in order to overclock your monitor. Unlike Nvidia, AMD do not offer custom resolutions and EDIDs through their driver interface.
> 
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU


Amd added custom resolution support in drivers like a year ago


----------



## HyeVltg3

Really in the market to Add to and/or replace my Qnix.

planning to grab a Crossover 2795

can anyone just answer a few quickies:

Max OC:
New Panels still OC to Max OC:
Does Active DP to DVI adapter work:

Just wondering because on QNIX, max WAS 120hz, but with the newer panels you can only get 96hz and the older panels are discontinued.
getting a AMD RX 480 and it has no DVI, I was using the QNIX with a Fury X(gone) connected via a DP to DVI adapter, but sadly OC didnt work.
Want to buy another "korean monitor" because I aint paying $800cad for a 1440p Acer/Asus monitor. and would love another 1440p for my other PC, that may or may not get the GTX 1070 (havent decided if I want the 480 or 1070 in my main PC) (its not about "use the stronger card" its about the unconfirmed Hype, haha)


----------



## bezzell

Don't buy a reference card. Wait a week or two for the vendor custom cards.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bezzell*
> 
> The board parter, vendor cards should come with DVI-D/I. The reference design will not.


----------



## Eaglez47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenDaMAN*
> 
> According to MSI's website, the Twin Frozr 7950 has one Dual Link DVI port.
> 
> Does the back of your card look like this?


Yeah it does have one then. I have no idea what's going on. Even if I go to 65 Hz it either goes black or I get the vertical lines.


----------



## Eaglez47

OK now I really need help. I unplugged the monitor while my pc was running and plugged it back in. It now just gets the vertical lines. Also whenever it turns on or off the back of the monitor makes a little "blip" sound. Here is what the monitor looks like


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglez47*
> 
> OK now I really need help. I unplugged the monitor while my pc was running and plugged it back in. It now just gets the vertical lines. Also whenever it turns on or off the back of the monitor makes a little "blip" sound. Here is what the monitor looks like


have you power cycled it yet? not turning it on/of via button, acutely unplugging it from AC adapter waiting a few mins then plugging it back in?
side note, who still takes vertical photos in 2016!?


----------



## Eaglez47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> have you power cycled it yet? not turning it on/of via button, acutely unplugging it from AC adapter waiting a few mins then plugging it back in?
> side note, who still takes vertical photos in 2016!?


Yeah Ive tried everything. Really starting to poss me off. I emailed greensum to see if he has any insight. I snapped that pic quick just incase it was going to go black, my bad haha. It still serves its purpose


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglez47*
> 
> Yeah Ive tried everything. Really starting to poss me off. I emailed greensum to see if he has any insight. I snapped that pic quick just incase it was going to go black, my bad haha. It still serves its purpose


Oh geez that really sucks, have you tried changing DVI cables?


----------



## Eaglez47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> Oh geez that really sucks, have you tried changing DVI cables?


Yeah, the cable is working on my old monitor right now


----------



## BenDaMAN

You should try booting into Safe mode and uninstalling the Nvidia Drivers using DDU Tool.
Then boot normally and see the monitors works with the Windows generic display drivers at stock refresh rate. There is a good change the monitor may work then.

Also are you using a GTX 1070 or 1080 by any chance? If you are then i believe i know what is occuring.


----------



## Exsanguis

Hello, just recently purchased a 2975 and was wondering what steps I have to take to reach 96hz with an nvidia card(970). Was reading the OCing post from the OP but the directions seem that all I would need to do is make a custom resolution in NVCP and I'm G2G. Anyone with this monitor have some insight? Thank you.


----------



## G130

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exsanguis*
> 
> Hello, just recently purchased a 2975 and was wondering what steps I have to take to reach 96hz with an nvidia card(970). Was reading the OCing post from the OP but the directions seem that all I would need to do is make a custom resolution in NVCP and I'm G2G. Anyone with this monitor have some insight? Thank you.


Yes, that is all that is needed. It is really that simple.


----------



## antonbj

Got my new monitor yesterday. A higher quality cable is on the way.

With the one included i've only been able to reach a overclock of 71hz(w/o frame-skipping), is the cable really that ****ty?

Using with a GTX 760.

I also tried changing some settings in the pixel clock which resulted in a black screen. Fortunately it was restored on reboot.


----------



## Nicholasng99

[]


----------



## Malinkadink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nicholasng99*
> 
> Hi, I received mine few days ago. Managed to OC to 104hz without artifacts, with included DVI-D cable. Using R9 290.
> 
> Purchased pixel-perfect version as it's only $5 more from dream-seller.
> 
> 1 dead pixel at bottom left (no big deal).
> 
> However, the bezel is covering a few rows of pixels at the bottom. Any idea how to fix?


You'll need to pop the front bezel off and wedge something in under the lcd panel assembly to lift it up a few millimeters.


----------



## Nicholasng99

[]


----------



## ILL BILL NECRO

I also just got this panel from dream seller. I did not pay for pixel perfect and I have zero dead pixels...... I have spent the last few day searching for the defect and have not found anything really. Kinda confused.


----------



## Yviena

Soo what's the average overclock on these panels 100-110 or ? kinda wondering how big of a difference between 100-110Hz is compared to 144Hz. One other thing im kinda worried about is future compatibility it seems DVI is getting phased out.


----------



## Malinkadink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yviena*
> 
> Soo what's the average overclock on these panels 100-110 or ? kinda wondering how big of a difference between 100-110Hz is compared to 144Hz. One other thing im kinda worried about is future compatibility it seems DVI is getting phased out.


The new GPUs all have DL-DVI at least the AIB cards do, it will be around for some time still. As for the difference between 100hz and 144hz its noticeable, especially when you consider that these OC monitors dont have scalers and therefore dont use any form of overdrive to speed up pixel response. Still its very use-able and for $300 getting a 1440p 96-110hz monitor depending on luck is a decent bargain.


----------



## Bored Games

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yviena*
> 
> Soo what's the average overclock on these panels 100-110 or ? kinda wondering how big of a difference between 100-110Hz is compared to 144Hz. One other thing im kinda worried about is future compatibility it seems DVI is getting phased out.


Pixel response on the Crossover is still better than it was on my Samsung 1080p monitor running at 76Hz with overdrive set to 'fastest'. At 110Hz blur is fairly minimal.


----------



## drafon9319

Just received this monitor today, no issues with pixels.
OCed to 96, after 2 hours of usage, the monitor went black with audio still playing (was in the middle of a video).
Restarted PC and tested different dvi cables, nothing worked.
The blue light on the front bottom right of the monitor remains on.
replugged old monitor and it worked.
Has this happened to anyone else? I've emailed dreamseller about the issue now and they've told me to send them a video (of a black screen?)


----------



## D34DM4N

Hey guys! I have just recently purchased and received my crossover 2795qhd from dreamseller after reading up on all the info provided in this forum







It took about a week to get here (Aus) mainly due to our local post and also a weekend, otherwise I was very impressed! Now when I first got it I noticed it has almost no light bleed whatsoever! And on top of that I did the usual pixel tests and only found one small pixel that appears black on a pure red background and it was located right at the bottom of the screen, so all good!







However yesterday while testing out some games at 96hz 1440p







, I noticed a strange cluster towards the centre of my screen that is most noticeable on a green background. The strange part is it doesnt look like normal dead or stuck pixels and almost seems transparent if that makes sense..however I cannot see it on pure blue or pure red, nor white or black that I have noticed. Any idea what it may be? its probably 5 pixels big, its annoying but the rest of the monitor is amazing so I really dont know if I should send it back or not. I hardly notice it gaming unless I go looking for it so I guess thats a plus! Ill try get a picture of it later and post up to show you what I mean. Other then that I am extremely happy with how amazing this monitor is!


----------



## D34DM4N

You can see the strange pixel cluster in the middle of the above pic, anyone have any idea what it is?


----------



## Vimm

Anyone know what kind of adapter I would need for this display to work with displayport? Im getting a GTX 1080 next month and there are no models with 2 dvi connections.


----------



## OptimusToaster

Nvidia have released another statement saying:

"We will be releasing a driver update later this week that will allow it to run at higher clocks on older DVI cables and enable all monitor modes. Thank you all for your patience"

https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/946217/geforce-1000-series/gtx-10-series-can-t-boot-correctly-past-330-mhz-dl-dvi-pixel-clock/post/4926343/#4926343


----------



## willyum32

Would you still recommend this display? Do the panels use PWM?


----------



## bezzell

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pixio-PX277-27-inch-2560x1440-144Hz-AMD-FreeSync-WQHD-Gaming-PC-Monitor-/262508966762


----------



## Bored Games

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bezzell*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pixio-PX277-27-inch-2560x1440-144Hz-AMD-FreeSync-WQHD-Gaming-PC-Monitor-/262508966762


darn it


----------



## willyum32

I need a little help choosing a seller:

This one by dream-seller:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/221708397727?hash=item339ed9ac9f:g:10kAAOSwBahVd8kT

or this one by 'bigclothcraft':
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Crossover-WQHD-2795QHD-AH-IPS-LED-27-2560X1440-Computer-Monitor-/131819460565?hash=item1eb10d57d5:g:MAAAAOSwH71XPTsb

the 'bigclothcraft' product description states: "Flicker free, Backlight Dimming" while the dreamseller page only has information on pixel disclaimer and return policies. The bigclothcraft also has that "Flicker free low blight" photograph while the dreamseller one does not. However, the dream-seller one must be a good model since 148 sold, only 10 available.

I really want to ensure I buy the right one without PWM, as this is the main reason I am moving from my QNIX. Any knowledge would be much appreciated thanks!


----------



## D34DM4N

I just recently (On the previous page) got mine through dreamseller







Sale number 147 from memory! I cannot fault it and am absolutely loving it! Overclocked to 96hz without any issues and feels so smooth compared to my old 23inch 60hz ips I had before







. Also fairly sure mines PWM free


----------



## inawe01

I just received a pixel perfect one from bigclothcraft. I chose them over dream-seller because their dead pixel policy was slightly better. It arrived from Korea in a few days, which really surprised me. There are no issues with the monitor that I've found so far, so I can't comment on how bigclothcraft's support is.


----------



## inawe01

Here are my overclocking results on the 2795 QHD I just received, in case anyone is interested. With LCD-native timings in CRU, 106 hz is the highest stable refresh rate for mine. With slightly modified LCD-reduced timings (horizontal at default; vertical at 2 front porch, 2 sync width, and 4 back porch) it is stable at 110 hz. Anything with a pixel clock above 431 mhz is unstable, so that's as high as I can go. I've decided to run it at 105 hz with modified LCD-reduced timings (a little under 412 mhz pixel clock) long term to leave some head room so that it will hopefully last. My video card is a Radeon R9 280X.


----------



## inawe01

I wish I would have seen the Pixio before I bought the 2795 QHD. 144 hz IPS would be nice. Oh well.


----------



## loki993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bored Games*
> 
> darn it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inawe01*
> 
> I wish I would have seen the Pixio before I bought the 2795 QHD. 144 hz IPS would be nice. Oh well.


What about input lag and pwm all that? Has that monitor been reviewed by anyone?


----------



## bezzell




----------



## loki993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bezzell*


I saw that but I don't think he got into input lag too much did he? Everything else looked pretty good though. Im still on the fence between this or the 2795 qhd for a hundred less and take my chances with the overclocking.


----------



## BlitzWulf

Hey all just received my monitor from Dream Seller yesterday and I have to say I'm very disappointed, It has terrible backlight bleed and the whites look yellow/green to me even after trying several ICC profiles.










I dont think I can live with that backlight bleed its very visible even in direct lighting.I think It even makes the whites darker/more yellow on on the right side of the screen.

Going to contact Dream seller and hopefully get them to pay return shipping.
So bummed right now =(


----------



## bezzell

Looks like you got a lemon. Sorry to hear it, but it happens. Dream seller has a really good track record with returns as per info from this thread. I wouldn't worry too much, and just exchange it.


----------



## BlitzWulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bezzell*
> 
> Looks like you got a lemon. Sorry to hear it, but it happens. Dream seller has a really good track record with returns as per info from this thread. I wouldn't worry too much, and just exchange it.


Thanks for the condolences, I'm seriously considering that Pixio PX277 now . I dont even own an AMD card ATM but I'll be rejoining team red when big Vega drops. What I want to Know is how bad is the ghosting/overshoot and if freesyncworks with Overdrive enabled.
It looks like it's PWM free too. basically a Crossover 144 fast with a better freesync range


----------



## bezzell

To be honest, I'm going Freesync as well. I'm selling my 970, 2795, and getting the pixeo/480 combo. For a couple hundred bucks after resale, I'll get a stable 144hz and freesync.. Nvidia's pricing has gotten out of control.

I can sell my old tech, and for a minor cash upgrade, get big returns in visual upgrades. I might add a second 480 later, or even sell again, and move up to 490 when it releases.

I used to buy the best card for money every gen. Nvidia has made that impossible with Gsync tax, and Nvidiot tax.


----------



## Malinkadink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bezzell*
> 
> To be honest, I'm going Freesync as well. I'm selling my 970, 2795, and getting the pixeo/480 combo. For a couple hundred bucks after resale, I'll get a stable 144hz and freesync.. Nvidia's pricing has gotten out of control.
> 
> I can sell my old tech, and for a minor cash upgrade, get big returns in visual upgrades. I might add a second 480 later, or even sell again, and move up to 490 when it releases.
> 
> I used to buy the best card for money every gen. Nvidia has made that impossible with Gsync tax, and Nvidiot tax.


I feel this sentiment, i dropped $470 on a 1070, and while its a great performer, i think $470 for a mid range card is pushing it, $370 would have been more like it. Now the only thing bothering me really is the DPC latency issues. Even after the hotfix theres still some instability.

I already invested into a Gsync monitor as i wanted VRR w/windowed mode which freesync cannot provide so i'm a bit tied with Nvidia right now unless i sold the monitor too. I may honestly return this 1070 as i'm still well within the return window and go back to the 970 g1 thats still in my sig. I only on 1080p 144hz so i could honestly live with a 970 still.


----------



## BlitzWulf

I'm 100% with you there on the Nvidia tax , If AMD had any cards that gave my @1500MHZ 980Ti a run for it's money i'd still be team red but even OC'ed my 980 Ti has trouble hitting 1440p 60 FPS at high settings on some newer AAA games so I'm gonna wait for big Vega,no way I'm going NV this time I almost spit juice on my monitor when I saw the new Titan was going to be $1200 and I'm not paying $200 more for a slightly better VRR experience either, I'll probably be able to get the Pixio +2 AMD flagship GPU's for the price of a Titan XP + equivalent G-Sync monitor.

BTW: Dream-Seller is being really good about my return, They immediately apologized and sent me a prepaid return label .

Now i just need to know more about this Pixio Freesync/Overdrive situation


----------



## Walorus

I bought a crossover a few months ago and just recently bought a dual monitor stand. I want to take off that ugly glass looking piece at the bottom, but am a bit confused how. I unscrewed the four screws along the bottom, but it still seems quite stuck together. I'm not sure if I should just try to force it apart with a screw driver, as I'm a bit worried it's like all glued up and I'll break something.

Is it possible to debezel it, take out the glass stand piece, and then put it back together so I can attach my new vesa mount?


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walorus*
> 
> I bought a crossover a few months ago and just recently bought a dual monitor stand. I want to take off that ugly glass looking piece at the bottom, but am a bit confused how. I unscrewed the four screws along the bottom, but it still seems quite stuck together. I'm not sure if I should just try to force it apart with a screw driver, as I'm a bit worried it's like all glued up and I'll break something.
> 
> Is it possible to debezel it, take out the glass stand piece, and then put it back together so I can attach my new vesa mount?


If the crossover is anything like the QNIX, from the pictures, very much so, the only way I was able to "remove" the stand was debezel and un BOLT it from the back of the panel holding thing. if you watch disassembly videos of the QNIX they're quite similar to the Crossover.


----------



## VeggieMight

Gday guys a week ago i ordered a Crossover 2795 QHD from Bigclothcraft and received this message in my inbox today..

Dear. customer

Really sorry for this message.

The manufacturer contacted us that
This monitor is discontinued...so sorry.
Now we can ship you 27100Q monitor.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Crossover-27100Q-27-100Hz-Real-Boost-Clock-AH-IPS-WQHD-DP-HDMI-Gaming-Monitor-/322209093717?hash=item4b05289855:g:ueEAAOSwaB5XmvqI

Is it okay with you?

Or we will cancel your order.
I will wait for your reply.

Sora

,The link is to a monitor being sold by "Dream-seller" and i cant find any information on this monitor online, does anyone know anything about it?or perhaps owns one?
i've no idea if its a better monitor or a dud all i know is the stand has been used on many monitors with various names such as CROSSOVER 27V.

any info you can give would be helpful.









:bulb:UPDATE:after asking some questions to "BBC" i got a very quick response,apparently one of three newly released monitors from crossover 27100q 1440p and two different 144hz 1080p monitors GAMER & WINDOW.

http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=27100Q
http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=27Xgamer
http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=27Xwindow

Cheers


----------



## Yviena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeggieMight*
> 
> Gday guys a week ago i ordered a Crossover 2795 QHD from Bigclothcraft and received this message in my inbox today..
> 
> Dear. customer
> 
> Really sorry for this message.
> 
> The manufacturer contacted us that
> This monitor is discontinued...so sorry.
> Now we can ship you 27100Q monitor.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Crossover-27100Q-27-100Hz-Real-Boost-Clock-AH-IPS-WQHD-DP-HDMI-Gaming-Monitor-/322209093717?hash=item4b05289855:g:ueEAAOSwaB5XmvqI
> 
> Is it okay with you?
> 
> Or we will cancel your order.
> I will wait for your reply.
> 
> Sora
> 
> ,The link is to a monitor being sold by "Dream-seller" and i cant find any information on this monitor online, does anyone know anything about it?or perhaps owns one?
> i've no idea if its a better monitor or a dud all i know is the stand has been used on many monitors with various names such as CROSSOVER 27V.
> 
> any info you can give would be helpful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :bulb:UPDATE:after asking some questions to "BBC" i got a very quick response,apparently one of three newly released monitors from crossover 27100q 1440p and two different 144hz 1080p monitors GAMER & WINDOW.
> 
> http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=27100Q
> http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=27Xgamer
> http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=27Xwindow
> 
> Cheers


Looking at the new 27100q it says it supports 75-100hz Nvidia and AMD 75hz freesync, it could be possible to overclock it to 100hz freesync.


----------



## VeggieMight

Just an update i accepted the 27100q replacement as it will mainly be a secondary monitor for movies.
I'll try and review it to the best of my abilities when it arrives,
is there a list of tests i can do at the start of this thread?

Cheers


----------



## P0kahontaz

Hi guys, I just ordered 2795 from dream-seller since he has em in stock. I have a question. Just recieved an email from seller that he didn't include power cable/adapter with monitor since he is out of the stock of type E plug. So what kind of adapter do i need to buy? will 24v 96 W do? What kind of plug at the back of the monitor there is? 5.5mm x 2.5 or smth different? Thanks in advice.


----------



## MochiPoo

Hi everyone,

I've had my Crossover 2795 for about 5 months now, and it's a really good monitor. However, this week I've noticed a vertical purple line (looks like this) on my monitor, and I've been told that the monitor is shot or the driver board needs to be replaced.

I've contacted Dream-Seller but they insisted I pay round shipping for repairs, which would cost me a couple hundred dollars. It's not something I want to do, but maybe as a desperate last resort.

If I can get my hands on a spare driver board I can take it to my local repair shop and they'll fix it for considerably cheaper but understandably it's hard to find one. Am I out of luck? Should I just bite the bullet and buy a new monitor?


----------



## Bored Games

I assume you have it overclocked. If you haven't already Try Taosty's pixel clock patcher and see if that resolves the issue first.. You may have updated your drivers and forgot to apply the patch (I've done this), or if this is Windows 10, the drivers could have been updated without you knowing: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/thread-nvidia-pixel-clock-patcher


----------



## zbran

Hello guys,I think I have the same monitor as the one in the original post. Please see the numbers etc in the pictures I have provided. Please forgive me if this is the wrong place for this as the amount of different types of these screens makes it very confusing for a lay person :-(. Anyway, I bought one of these about 6 months ago and it has been great screen, I really love it. Just today I have somehow managed to break it! The screen powers on but it will not display an image.

I know enough to be able to trouble shoot all my gear,so I've gone through the obvious. I've tested all the ports on the GPU,I've used a different screen and used lots of different cables. So as the screen still powers on (it has a power brick and not an internal PSU) the only thing left is the internal board of the monitor where the DVI port is located, is damaged.

So obviously I need a replacement and that is the point of this post/cry for help! Could someone please tell me, or direct me to the correct replacement part I need, or a suitable alternative that will fit in my monitors chassis?? Please find attached all the numbers I could see when I opened the chassis. If you require any more info with identifying the correct parts please just ask me and I will get the info. I have provided a link to the monitor I bough and also pictures of the labels on the panel and the PCB board where the DVI port is.





And the site I bought the screen from.

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-27QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-Matt-QHD-Computer-Monitor-/252394000472?hash=item3ac3dad058:g:JmkAAOSw9VZXPA5r

Please can someone help me in getting a replacement DVI port board for this screen! I will be eternally grateful if you van help me :-(


----------



## zbran

Can anybody help me with this?? Should I just contact the eBay seller and see if they can supply me with a replacement board?


----------



## multiplayer

Hey guys, I read every post in this 196 page thread before making the decision to purchase a Perfect 2795QHD. My order date was the 24th of August; shipped on the 26th of August and arrived at my door in Central Queensland, Australia on the 30th of August. EXTREMELY fast shipping with the free expedited shipping from certain ebay sellers. The box was covered in a layer of foam that was wrapped up in 4 layers of tape that circled the boxes slimmest dimension and a few tracks going around the face and back of the box.

I knew what to expect before opening it and that was a cheap plastic, fat bezelled 27" monitor with a LG IPS panel that was flicker free and that is exactly what i got. No signs of damage the box didn't have any tape making a seal that I would have to break so it is possible the monitor was tested before shipping but that would only be my assumption because what i got when i fired it up was zero dead pixels and very minimal BLB at the very top of the panel slightly right of the center of the panel. The overclock was instantly set to 96Hz with nvidia custom resolution and there was zero frame skipping or artifacts so i was happy, now i run at 100Hz as it seams like a round number even though is isn't a common multiple of 24 i didn't think this should matter.

After firing it up to test the hardware, it passed the checks so i then moved onto the stand. The stub that sticks out of the panels cheap plastic housing is really an eyesore if you plan to vesa mount this to another stand or wall mount. I had previously watched videos on debezelling and moving the panel to unscrew the hideous, bulbous looking peace of plastic so i jumped straight to it and started unscrewing the 4 small star screws on the back of the panel and used a old credit card to open it a little around the power and brightness buttons. I didn't have a plastic puddy knife and restrained myself from using a thick flathead screw driver. Needing something a little thicker than a credit card at this point and look through my kitchen draws. There was a plastic spoon from yogurt land and the width on it was perfect and got the clips to pop without breaking them as i ran it around the perimeter of the bezel. Finally unscrewing the panel to lift it and slide it up a little while I removed the glued in screws from the built in stand i knew to use a thick star screwdriver bit and apply plenty of pressure to avoid stripping the cheap screw. It all went well, I put the panel back together and attached it to a spare monitor stand from a Dell 3008WFP and this stand certainly helps boost its looks lol!

Happy with my purchase and would give it 4.4 stars out of 5. Losing points for bezel thickness and vesa mount capable monitor have a stub hanging out its butt like a hemorrhoid that requires surgery to remove. Lack of OSD may be a pro in some ways but it does suck not having one for setting a colour profile to the monitor and not the OS.

I got it from bigclothcraft - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/142090523089


----------



## zbran

Can someone please help me with this. I have tried to search the site looking for the info but it is very very hard for me as I'm dyslexic







. I have taken the 2 boards out of the monitor. There are model numbers etc on the boards I have tried to google them but I get nothing back that matches. I also tried to to find them on eBay but I've had no luck there either.. If someone could take just a few seconds to have a look at the pictures attached and maybe give me a link to purchase or point me in the right direction? AS I am not really sure which board is causing the broblem I will just buy both of them.


----------



## MochiPoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zbran*
> 
> Can someone please help me with this. I have tried to search the site looking for the info but it is very very hard for me as I'm dyslexic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have taken the 2 boards out of the monitor. There are model numbers etc on the boards I have tried to google them but I get nothing back that matches. I also tried to to find them on eBay but I've had no luck there either.. If someone could take just a few seconds to have a look at the pictures attached and maybe give me a link to purchase or point me in the right direction? AS I am not really sure which board is causing the broblem I will just buy both of them.


These are going to be pretty difficult to find. I was also looking for one but lucked out when I found someone who had a spare. Unfortunately you're going to either have to wait until someone is giving one away or contact the seller and see if they allow warranty repair.

With the warranty repair they might ask you to cover shipping which could be expensive so be cautious.


----------



## zbran

Ok thank you very much for the reply


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MochiPoo*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I've had my Crossover 2795 for about 5 months now, and it's a really good monitor. However, this week I've noticed a vertical purple line (looks like this) on my monitor, and I've been told that the monitor is shot or the driver board needs to be replaced.
> 
> I've contacted Dream-Seller but they insisted I pay round shipping for repairs, which would cost me a couple hundred dollars. It's not something I want to do, but maybe as a desperate last resort.
> 
> If I can get my hands on a spare driver board I can take it to my local repair shop and they'll fix it for considerably cheaper but understandably it's hard to find one. Am I out of luck? Should I just bite the bullet and buy a new monitor?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zbran*
> 
> Hello guys,I think I have the same monitor as the one in the original post. Please see the numbers etc in the pictures I have provided. Please forgive me if this is the wrong place for this as the amount of different types of these screens makes it very confusing for a lay person :-(. Anyway, I bought one of these about 6 months ago and it has been great screen, I really love it. Just today I have somehow managed to break it! The screen powers on but it will not display an image.
> 
> I know enough to be able to trouble shoot all my gear,so I've gone through the obvious. I've tested all the ports on the GPU,I've used a different screen and used lots of different cables. So as the screen still powers on (it has a power brick and not an internal PSU) the only thing left is the internal board of the monitor where the DVI port is located, is damaged.
> 
> So obviously I need a replacement and that is the point of this post/cry for help! Could someone please tell me, or direct me to the correct replacement part I need, or a suitable alternative that will fit in my monitors chassis?? Please find attached all the numbers I could see when I opened the chassis. If you require any more info with identifying the correct parts please just ask me and I will get the info. I have provided a link to the monitor I bough and also pictures of the labels on the panel and the PCB board where the DVI port is.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the site I bought the screen from.
> 
> http://www.ebay.ie/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-27QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-Matt-QHD-Computer-Monitor-/252394000472?hash=item3ac3dad058:g:JmkAAOSw9VZXPA5r
> 
> Please can someone help me in getting a replacement DVI port board for this screen! I will be eternally grateful if you van help me :-(


For both of you guys you may have some luck with this vendor ... DOUBLE CHECK panel compatibility with the vendor (I'd call them direct) after you have positively identified your panel model numbers after disassembly ... hope this helps









http://www.bonanza.com/listings/Lg-Ips-27-Overclock-Monitor-Pcb-Set-W-Tcon-Dvi-Cables/369885120


----------



## zbran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> For both of you guys you may have some luck with this vendor ... DOUBLE CHECK panel compatibility with the vendor (I'd call them direct) after you have positively identified your panel model numbers after disassembly ... hope this helps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.bonanza.com/listings/Lg-Ips-27-Overclock-Monitor-Pcb-Set-W-Tcon-Dvi-Cables/369885120


Wow thanks so much dude,that's great ?. I've contacted the seller. Just looking at the pictures of his board it looks s little different to mine.


----------



## zbran

Well having spoke to the vendor for those boards they are no compatible with my monitor ?. Back to square one..


----------



## Boule

Hello Everyone,

I noticed that I have some black shadows on the bottom of the screen. Can I do something about that ? Should I RMA it or is there a fix to that ?

Thanks !


----------



## Warrimonk

Does anyone else have "Sync Issues" with chrome and going over 100Hz?

Whenever I try to go over 100Hz and then check it with ufotest, it keeps reporting browser sync issues for some reason? My monitor used to be able to do 110hz no problem, Im not sure what has changed. Maybe newer drivers did it?


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boule*
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> I noticed that I have some black shadows on the bottom of the screen. Can I do something about that ? Should I RMA it or is there a fix to that ?
> 
> Thanks !


That is normal afaik since you took a photo of it. Mine too has "shadows" if I take a pic but nothing if I look close.


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warrimonk*
> 
> Does anyone else have "Sync Issues" with chrome and going over 100Hz?
> 
> Whenever I try to go over 100Hz and then check it with ufotest, it keeps reporting browser sync issues for some reason? My monitor used to be able to do 110hz no problem, Im not sure what has changed. Maybe newer drivers did it?


Yes, I have this as well but it has nothing to do with monitor.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boule*
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> I noticed that I have some black shadows on the bottom of the screen. Can I do something about that ? Should I RMA it or is there a fix to that ?
> 
> Thanks !


I don't have anything like this so it could be a defect. Could be that some leds are defective, you could try RMA but don't know if it's worth the cost of shipping to Korea. This monitors are one way ticket. You are either lucky or not...


----------



## Death2Consoles

Double post, see below.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boule*
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> I noticed that I have some black shadows on the bottom of the screen. Can I do something about that ? Should I RMA it or is there a fix to that ?
> 
> Thanks !


Look on Youtube for directions for opening the monitor up. It's easy, I've done it with one of mine. Once you're in there, make sure the panel is correctly seated in it's grooves, there isn't anything holding it in place and sometimes the bezel can come loose in shipping. Also, try leaving the bottom few clips undone when you assemble the monitor, you might just have pressure on the panel from the bezel. You can power on the monitor with the bezel removed to see if the shadowing goes away. Also, make sure the monitor stand screws are tight inside of the bezel, if they're loose you could be putting pressure on the panel by warping the bezel.. Mine were pretty loose but I didn't have shadowing. Hope this helps.

Also, I returned one of the monitors I opened up.. I got it from Newegg so shipping it back was free. There's no warranty seal or anything like that so if you're careful not to nick the bezel up when you pop it open, you can still have the option to return.


----------



## maro112

Hello,
I have bought an Crossover 2795 27" 1440p. It has a brightness 350 cd/m2 and my previous 24" 1080p had 250 cd/m2 and this is why my eyes are tired very fast by looking at new crossover.
There are buttons on that crossover, there is power on/off and brightness +/- but if I decrease the brightness, the white color is getting more grey.

Can I change somehow the brightness of that crossover without changing colours?
And what does 4 more buttons on that crossover? Because there is 7 at all, the 1st one is power on/off, 2nd is brightness +, 3rd is brightness - so 4 buttons left and nothing happens when I click them.


----------



## Kraze123

Are any of these the right monitors?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CrossOver-2795-27-QHD-AHIPS-LED-Monitor-/151754950528?hash=item23554cc780:g:-RcAAOSwu4BVsHtV
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Crossover-2795-QHD-LG-AHIPS-LED-Real-75Hz-27inch-2560-x-1440-Monitor-/262709942656?hash=item3d2abb9980:g:2YsAAOSwjVVVm85Y

I wasn't sure if they are the right ones since the official product page says it's 100hz and the links above say it's 75hz :/


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maro112*
> 
> Hello,
> I have bought an Crossover 2795 27" 1440p. It has a brightness 350 cd/m2 and my previous 24" 1080p had 250 cd/m2 and this is why my eyes are tired very fast by looking at new crossover.
> There are buttons on that crossover, there is power on/off and brightness +/- but if I decrease the brightness, the white color is getting more grey.
> 
> Can I change somehow the brightness of that crossover without changing colours?
> And what does 4 more buttons on that crossover? Because there is 7 at all, the 1st one is power on/off, 2nd is brightness +, 3rd is brightness - so 4 buttons left and nothing happens when I click them.


Only the power button and the brightness function, the other buttons do nothing on this monitor. Turning down the brightness always makes the whites more grey, that's kind of how it works with monitors and isn't something wrong with yours.

You can adjust the brightness in the nvidia control panel under "adjust desktop color settings" and this will dim the monitor without making everything as grey as it is when you turn down the backlight using the buttons on the monitor. AMD can do this as well in their driver.

Check out f.lux (find on Google) and try using that if the above recommendations aren't satisfactory. I use f.lux to adjust the color temp when my eyes are tired, it's very effective and can be set up to run automatically.

Hope this helps


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kraze123*
> 
> Are any of these the right monitors?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CrossOver-2795-27-QHD-AHIPS-LED-Monitor-/151754950528?hash=item23554cc780:g:-RcAAOSwu4BVsHtV
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Crossover-2795-QHD-LG-AHIPS-LED-Real-75Hz-27inch-2560-x-1440-Monitor-/262709942656?hash=item3d2abb9980:g:2YsAAOSwjVVVm85Y
> 
> I wasn't sure if they are the right ones since the official product page says it's 100hz and the links above say it's 75hz :/


I would buy from Dream-Seller or Greensum if possible.. Most people have great service from them but I'm not sure if they ship to you. Those are the monitor you're looking for. Any overclock is luck of the draw, so these guys selling the monitors get a little bit sneaky and won't list a "solid" number because they can't guarantee anything. Most of these overclock to at least 100hz so I wouldn't worry about the listings because they're just throwing a number out there which most should be able to attain. It's a 60Hz monitor, anything over that is just luck. I use mine at 96Hz 24/7 but can do 110Hz. I decided to back down to 96Hz as it's a multiple of 24 so 24 FPS movies run smoothly with no skipped frames.


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## Kraze123

@Death2Consoles I'll probably end up buying the first one i linked because i can't seem to find any being sold by Dream-Seller or Greensum, also as long i can get at least 96hz i'll be happy with it. Thanks for the help


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## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maro112*
> 
> Hello,
> I have bought an Crossover 2795 27" 1440p. It has a brightness 350 cd/m2 and my previous 24" 1080p had 250 cd/m2 and this is why my eyes are tired very fast by looking at new crossover.
> There are buttons on that crossover, there is power on/off and brightness +/- but if I decrease the brightness, the white color is getting more grey.
> 
> Can I change somehow the brightness of that crossover without changing colours?
> And what does 4 more buttons on that crossover? Because there is 7 at all, the 1st one is power on/off, 2nd is brightness +, 3rd is brightness - so 4 buttons left and nothing happens when I click them.


You can use the settings from your videocard software to tune the brightness too. The buttons are just because they use a stock case. 3 are actually connected and the other 4 do nothing.


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## D34DM4N

As well as adjusting the brightness in your video driver settings, you could also try the calibration profiles posted in this forum. I tried one and It made a big difference to the whites on my display


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## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D34DM4N*
> 
> As well as adjusting the brightness in your video driver settings, you could also try the calibration profiles posted in this forum. I tried one and It made a big difference to the whites on my display


Agreed.. I use "Color Sustainer v1.05" to automatically apply the profile on boot. I have a 60Hz and a 96Hz profile and it changes based on my refresh rate.


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## maro112

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D34DM4N*
> 
> As well as adjusting the brightness in your video driver settings, you could also try the calibration profiles posted in this forum. I tried one and It made a big difference to the whites on my display


Did you use one of the profiles which has been posted by Unownbeing at page 29 in this thread?


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## D34DM4N

Yep, the 680kb 2.2gamma profile


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## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maro112*
> 
> Did you use one of the profiles which has been posted by Unownbeing at page 29 in this thread?


Yes.


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## w00pw0p

Hi everyone, I've been looking around the interwebs and doing a bunch of research about all these different panels and had a question before considering picking one up.

The one I'm looking at is this one:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121736725444?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT#shpCntId

It's the Crossover 27QHD IPS LED WQHD 2560X1440 Monitor *Tempered Glass.

The biggest question I have is are these overclockable? I noticed one single answer previously in this thread that said no, but was wondering if they definitely aren't? I'm not looking to have 120hz or anything like that, I'd be more than happy with 96hz. From everything I can see they are the single DVI input and potentially matte screen with the tempered glass on top?

Thank you so much!


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## cyris69

Since they don't seem the have the 2795 title on ebay by green they do have this and is it the same? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-27QHD-IPS-LED-27-WQHD-2560X1440-Monitor-Tempered-Glass-/121736725444?hash=item1c581303c4:gJcAAOSwT6pV0YW4

Mine doesn't have tempered glass or gloss but I ordered that early 2015 and it was titles a 2795 QHD from green.


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## Atreah

Hey all,

I've had my Crossover 2795 for about a year now and love it! However, I've found myself in a bit of a pickle, as I'm considering buying another one. Sadly, it seems these are no longer available, or at least I can't find any for a reasonable price (I live in Europe and paid about 290 EUR for the monitor shipped with import duties and everything). That being said, if anyone knows where you could buy one of these for about 300 USD base price, please share the link!

However, I kinda feel that's not going to happen, so I'm wondering if anyone knows whether the QNIX2710 uses the same bezel as the Crossover 2795? Or are there any other monitors that do? I won't be gaming on this second monitor, but I'd love it if they look the same.

This is the 2710 I've been looking at.. The bezel sure seems very similar to me

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?hash=item1e7c39ae25:g:ZSoAAMXQDfdRtY7e

Thanks for any help in advance!


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## Atreah

EDIT: double post, please delete this one.


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## cyris69

It's a poop shoot man, green-sum said he is out and they are gone. I want a second as well and my friend wanted one for his new 1080. No idea of a comparable no-name kinda screen like it plus this thread seems pretty dead now.


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## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atreah*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I've had my Crossover 2795 for about a year now and love it! However, I've found myself in a bit of a pickle, as I'm considering buying another one. Sadly, it seems these are no longer available, or at least I can't find any for a reasonable price (I live in Europe and paid about 290 EUR for the monitor shipped with import duties and everything). That being said, if anyone knows where you could buy one of these for about 300 USD base price, please share the link!
> 
> However, I kinda feel that's not going to happen, so I'm wondering if anyone knows whether the QNIX2710 uses the same bezel as the Crossover 2795? Or are there any other monitors that do? I won't be gaming on this second monitor, but I'd love it if they look the same.
> 
> This is the 2710 I've been looking at.. The bezel sure seems very similar to me
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?hash=item1e7c39ae25:g:ZSoAAMXQDfdRtY7e
> 
> Thanks for any help in advance!


Yep the frame/stand are literally Identical except for the logo and it will OC too. But note they are different panels LG vs Samsung ... I saw a 2795 on ebay just the other day like *HERE* and used *HERE* ... keep an eye out in this thread ... http://www.ebay.com/sch/Monitors-Projectors-Accs/162497/i.html?_nkw=crossover+monitor&_frs=1 ... hope that helps, be patient if you want an exact match


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## Mufufu

Hello guys

I hope you can help me.
I wanted to buy a QNIX 1440p monitor, but there is a problem with the 1080 and OC above 83Hz.
Some guy from here told me to ask in here for more guidence.

So what I need is:
27"
IPS panel
1440p
90+ Hz
200£250£ ish.

Going to be used on MMORPG and some FPS.

Best regards Mufufu


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## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mufufu*
> 
> Hello guys
> 
> I hope you can help me.
> I wanted to buy a QNIX 1440p monitor, but there is a problem with the 1080 and OC above 83Hz.
> Some guy from here told me to ask in here for more guidence.
> 
> So what I need is:
> 27"
> IPS panel
> 1440p
> 90+ Hz
> 200£250£ ish.
> 
> Going to be used on MMORPG and some FPS.
> 
> Best regards Mufufu


Can you post a picture or a link to the model you have? The multi-input monitors don't overclock very well..


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## Mufufu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Can you post a picture or a link to the model you have? The multi-input monitors don't overclock very well..


I havnt bought anything yet. THe problem with D-DVI is that it is limited on the GTX 1080, So it cannot OC higher than 83Hz
So a member in here told me the Crossover monitor is better.


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## oblivious

I have an older Crossover 27Q abd I am wanting to add another monitor for a dual setup. Sadly i cannot add another 27Q and have been looking at other Korean 27 inch monitors. Has anyone here mixed IPS and PLS monitors together? Is there going to be any noticable differences? I could get the more expensive Crossover 27VV but i just wonder if i need that kind of monitor.


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## OptimusToaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mufufu*
> 
> I havnt bought anything yet. THe problem with D-DVI is that it is limited on the GTX 1080, So it cannot OC higher than 83Hz
> So a member in here told me the Crossover monitor is better.


1080 works fine with high Hz on DVI D. Nvidia fixed it in drivers. I run my qnix at 100hz via CRU though you need to use the driver patcher first. Also when updating the driver reset everything to 60hz otherwise you can get blackscreens


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## faction87

Im looking to upgrade from my HD 24' Asus 144hz 1ms monitor, I got these two im looking at. also maybe monoprice if those are good.

QNIX QX2710 27' sounds nice?

or

Crossover 289K 4k?

Thanks
Got a 980 Ti too btw.


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## BadRobot

Update on Windows 10. It's probably related to the recent graphic drivers update from AMD but my Crossover 2795QHD can do 100Hz now without flickering







Windows 7 managed 110 and when I upgraded to 10 it could only do 75Hz without flickering or corruption.

It's now been more than a year and a half in use. Great purchase but it's been replaced by the BenQ XL2730Z as main monitor.


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## nadroj1485

Do the 2795QHD Matte have a glass screen between the panel and the outside that can be removed?


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## nadroj1485

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nadroj1485*
> 
> Do the 2795QHD Matte have a glass screen between the panel and the outside that can be removed?


Does anyone know? A small gnat got trapped between the display itself and whatever is on the outside. Is there a glass panel that I can remove to clean it like the tempered glass version?


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## BootLoops

Hey guys,

I haven't posted here in a while but I wanted to share a success story to give back a little for all the amazing info sharing in this thread and on this site.

In 2015 I purchased two Crossover 2795 monitors from dream-seller on the 'bay and have enjoyed them a lot in daily use since then. A few months ago, one of them started exhibiting heavy flickering to the point that it was unusable. After swapping two video cards and realizing it was the monitor and not my PC, I found a few posts for other Korean IPS monitors that described the same flickering problem, as indicated in this video:






I saw a few posts about PCB replacement here, and so I contacted dream-seller on eBay to ask if he could help get me a replacement PCB. He said he could, and after exchanging a few pictures and messages between him and Crossover, he was able to source a replacement PCB for me for $77 shipped, which seemed reasonable to resurrect such an expensive monitor with an LG panel that was still good. When I received the PCB it was clearly a used one which was disappointing, and had a few bent pins on one of the connectors I had to carefully nudge back into place, but it did work, and the flickering due to previous failed PCB has disappeared.

Disassembly was a bit tricky but not impossible, and was helped by the instructions and pic]s in posts from this thread:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1555354/official-crossover-2795-qhd-pwm-flicker-free-overclock-able-matte-1440p-ah-ips/1420#post_24663205

Also helpful were some Powerpoint crossover monitor disassembly instructions someone else posted in this thread (attached here).

Howtochangeboardfor27QD_27QHD_2799_2795.pptx 431k .pptx file


All in all, I would say this is a great problem solved / solution to my Crossover Korean IPS monitor flickering problem, and thank you to all here for the help. It's too bad we can't have a sticky or updated original post so others can figure out that there is hope for resurrecting these monitors with replacement circuit boards for those handy enough to do the teardown and repair / reassembly.

Good luck all!


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## tonyeezy

Would anyone be able to point me to a DVI cable that 100% works with this monitor? I just ordered a 10ft Cable Matters DVI cable off Amazon and it does not work. When plugged in it does not give monitor any signal but the one that came with it does. Ordered from here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NJ3WI8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## strykn

Has anyone ran this monitor with the Visiontek DP to DVI-D active adapter? My video card died recently and this visiontek adapter does not want to work with the monitor, even though many reviews on Amazon said people got it working


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## lester007

My monitor died, only 2 years for me


----------



## Santosh

Since this morning I'm noticing dark horizontal scan lines on my monitor. They are the darkest on the bottom right corner, while the upper left seems completely free of them. Lowering the overclock back to 60hz made the scan lines less noticeable. It's probably not the graphics card since my 2nd monitor is unaffected and I've tried a different DVI cable - still the same problem.

I've been running the monitor at 104hz since I bought it 2 years and 3 months ago from dream-seller on ebay.

Has anyone else had the same issue? Is there anything I can do about it?

Edit: I'm also now getting image Screen Burn-in in the bottom right corner


----------



## bbarnette

*Crossover 2795 T-Con Board LM270WQ1 150630*

Anyone know where to buy a new T-Con Board for the Crossover 2795? Part is LM270WQ1-SLC1 150630 . Board blew a PCB. Can't find where to buy a new one online. See attached pics.


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## bbarnette

PIC will not attach. Too big.


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## TylerAD

I am actually selling my monitor because of a upgrade/present. Please check out my link if anyone is interested in buying. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/273516339420?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649


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## doco

Hey all,

I just wanted to say Club 3D CAC-1510 USB Type C to DVI-D Dual Link adapter works for my 2795! I tried various DP to DVI-D dual link adapters over the years when GPUs started phasing out DVI-D outputs, but none of them worked. My guts gave in to try out this USB-C to DVI-D dual link.

Well, this adapter brought it back from the cold storage. I can run it at 1440p @ 96hz no problems. I hope this helps people who are stuck with their korean monitors with only the DVI-D dual link input. I can't express how much I've missed the semi-glossy coating on this monitor.


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## rccsr

Hey everyone, I managed to upgrade this monitor the HDMI/DP. No issues with websites featuring DRM.
75Hz max.



http://imgur.com/a/NHJQrpd


65.15US $ 18% OFF|LCD Controller Board Monitor Kit inverter Monitor kit for 27"inch LM270WQ1(SL)(C1) 2560X1440 SLC1 HDMI compatible+DVI+DP|Home Automation Kits| - AliExpress

You will need to upgrade the firmware of the monitor.


----------

