# Soldering your cpu to your HS



## TheSubtleKnife

wouldnt the solder heat hurt the CPU? that'd b my main concern


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## xz3rorom3o

somebody do it and post!


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## IwubAMD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheSubtleKnife* 
wouldnt the solder heat hurt the CPU? that'd b my main concern

intel solders the die's directly to the IHS so i would imagine no

also, its really easy to heat up solder without it transferring the heat, or at least thats my experience, it seems to just suck up all the heat to the solder and liquify before heating w/e its contacting up


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## ivan0550

Would be a nice idea!


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## johonm333

I have to say that this is the FIRST time i have heard this question.

Innovation FTW!

I would say to use more than a typical thermal paste job, because THEN you are filling in more of the rougher/rounded areas.

A steady hand with plenty of time and you might break a world record(for AIR that is...) with a good chip!


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## blupupher

Would not be that hard. Just heat the HSF up to melt the solder and then stick the CPU on it. You really would not need to mount it since the solder would hold it in place (unless you have a real heavy HSF setup).
I guess you could mark where the CPU needs to be and solder it that way also.


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## Skullzaflare

how would you get the heatdsink on before the solder cooled to solid? i had this issue earlier today bonding 2 wires


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## JEK3

I would assume you would use a copper heatsink, as aluminum is more difficult to solder. You could probably tin the heatsink (give it a nice thin coat of solder), then heat the sink to melt the solder, then stick the CPU in the pool of liquid solder. That would probably minimize the amount of heat transferred to the CPU. Of course, you would have to use some flux on the CPU, probably preheat it to ensure it does its job.


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## TheFlyingWallaby

You would likely get almost the exact same effect by using Liquid Pro.


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## TaiDinh

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JEK3* 
I would assume you would use a copper heatsink, as aluminum is more difficult to solder. You could probably tin the heatsink (give it a nice thin coat of solder), then heat the sink to melt the solder, then stick the CPU in the pool of liquid solder. That would probably minimize the amount of heat transferred to the CPU. Of course, you would have to use some flux on the CPU, probably preheat it to ensure it does its job.

If you just put the CPU in the pool of liquid solder, you have to make sure that it is straight and even. Or else it'll have a hard time fitting into the socket straight. Probably damage some pins too


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## IwubAMD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Skullzaflare*


how would you get the heatdsink on before the solder cooled to solid? i had this issue earlier today bonding 2 wires


blowtorch









Quote:



Originally Posted by *blupupher*


Would not be that hard. Just heat the HSF up to melt the solder and then stick the CPU on it. You really would not need to mount it since the solder would hold it in place (unless you have a real heavy HSF setup).
I guess you could mark where the CPU needs to be and solder it that way also.


thats what i was thinking, but you have to keep in mind HS job is to move heat away, so the very second you remove the heat that solder will solidify

Quote:



Originally Posted by *johonm333*


I have to say that this is the FIRST time i have heard this question.

Innovation FTW!

I would say to use more than a typical thermal paste job, because THEN you are filling in more of the rougher/rounded areas.

A steady hand with plenty of time and you might break a world record(for AIR that is...) with a good chip!


not sure what made me think of it, and i dont think it would be limited to air, infact i think it would be better on water since it can remove the heat transfered faster

the real question though is whether solder really would transfer heat faster than as5, i imagine it would considering its a solid

and then the bigger issue is getting the cpu in the right place on the sink, its one thing if its adjustable, but a lot would need it in EXACTLY the right place


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## 0rion

How would you propose removing the chip from the board afterwards? You need to take off the heatsink to reach the disengage lever holding the CPU down. I suppose you might be able to do it with a socket with pins, but you would have to pull the chip out with the pins locked in. Never good. You would also have to find some way to put it back in, once removed. Unless you can solder/unsolder it easily, it would be EXTREMELY difficult.


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## IwubAMD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *0rion*


How would you propose removing the chip from the board afterwards? You need to take off the heatsink to reach the disengage lever holding the CPU down. I suppose you might be able to do it with a socket with pins, but you would have to pull the chip out with the pins locked in. Never good. You would also have to find some way to put it back in, once removed. Unless you can solder/unsolder it easily, it would be EXTREMELY difficult.


this would probably be limited to people with sockets like the 775, if you remove the cpu cover (like i currently have) the only thing holding the cpu in the socket is the force of the HS


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## The Pook

Or get better temps by just removing the IHS instead of piling more crap on top of it.


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## dskina

Simply place the HSF on top when ready


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## IwubAMD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


Or get better temps by just removing the IHS instead of piling more crap on top of it.


well 1, most people who try end up ripping the die right off, 2 its a lot easier to solder the HS to the IHS then it would be the die of the cpu

im assuming 2 layers of solder would still transfer heat faster than as5


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## hvacgaspiping

Never heat a CPU to anything over 80 C.


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## SyncMaster753

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hvacgaspiping*


Never heat a CPU to anything over 80 C.


i wonder if operating temps apply when it's not operating

silicon has a high meltingpoint and the metal inside def wouln't melt that easily
i think it could be a go


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## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IwubAMD*


well 1, most people who try end up ripping the die right off, 2 its a lot easier to solder the HS to the IHS then it would be the die of the cpu

im assuming 2 layers of solder would still transfer heat faster than as5


Yes, heating metal to the point to it melts on top of a $200+ CPU for most likely 2-3C (if anything, assuming it helps), is more safe than cutting the glue around the edges.

Latest C2D's aren't soldered anymore.


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## IwubAMD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
Yes, heating metal to the point to it melts on top of a $200+ CPU for most likely 2-3C (if anything, assuming it helps), is more safe than cutting the glue around the edges.

Latest C2D's aren't soldered anymore.











even if they arent, it still a hell of a lot safer to solder ot the ihs than the die


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## blupupher

Quote:


Originally Posted by *0rion* 
How would you propose removing the chip from the board afterwards? You need to take off the heatsink to reach the disengage lever holding the CPU down. I suppose you might be able to do it with a socket with pins, but you would have to pull the chip out with the pins locked in. Never good. You would also have to find some way to put it back in, once removed. Unless you can solder/unsolder it easily, it would be EXTREMELY difficult.


Didn't think of that







.. no way to get the lever locked and unlocked....


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## IwubAMD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blupupher* 
Didn't think of that







.. no way to get the lever locked and unlocked....

like this


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## Mr_Me_II

I'd put 3 1 strips of the thinnest solder I could find along the top of the CPU and just install the heatsink, applying as much pressure on the top of the CPU as possible. Turn it on without a fan and wait an hour, watching BIOS for temp.

Just realized this thread is days old


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## RonindeBeatrice

I dunno if this is a great idea.

Just doing it would be a challenge itself


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## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IwubAMD* 









even if they arent, it still a hell of a lot safer to solder ot the ihs than the die









Proof? People are taking the lids of their C2D's. That's proof enough.

You're not soldering to the die. You take the IHS off and do directly to the heatsink. Why the hell would you intentionally add another layer of unneeded material to the heatsink, let alone one that would most likely render your chip useless?


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## RonindeBeatrice

You could use a high wattage TEC ...

nvm

This is bananas...


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## The Duke

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blupupher* 
Would not be that hard. Just heat the HSF up to melt the solder and then stick the CPU on it. You really would not need to mount it since the solder would hold it in place (unless you have a real heavy HSF setup).
I guess you could mark where the CPU needs to be and solder it that way also.

Both surfaces have to be at a given temperature. The CPU IHS may stick with the likes of a "cold" connection which electrically conductive is very poor and likely to fail or result in an "open" connection.... but the material mating will be very poor and likely also inhibit thermal transfer.
The only likely material for the solder would have to be a high quality silver solder which will likely require more heat than would be wise. Low heat solder would also likely be a poor conductor of heat too due to the alloys used!

See the melting points in the link and think about this aspect again.
Can you say from a minimum temp of 140c to over 300c








http://www.bhavanimetals.com/Solder_...ore_Solder.htm


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## bigvaL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dskina* 
Simply place the HSF on top when ready


















Is that diagram to scale??


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## mashersmasher

you can get silver solder so it sounds promising. i used solder paste (ya i know it's not the same) and the results were good till it dried. if you use a propane torch to heat up a heatsink and then dribble solid core solder onto it you would not only get the effect of lapping but if you stuck the cpu on in time it could be allot batter in terms of contact.


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## FireMarshallBill

I don't know about this application in particular however I think of a CPU as a very heat sensitive chip and to make a comparison to another heat sensitive component, take the tantalum capacitor into consideration. When you solder one to a board, the manufacturer guarantees that you can only solder it once on each side for no more than 3 sec a side, once. Any more than that will most likely cause damage. To cover the HS with solder and applying it to the CPU and expect it to cool down in a short enough time to prevent damage, I belive, is wishful thinking.


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## Flack88

Try it on a crappy cpu before the c2d for the love of god lol.


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## The Duke

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Flack88*


Try it on a crappy cpu before the c2d for the love of god lol.


Did you mean kill a cheepo processor first just to prove it won't work


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## PhillyOverclocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xz3rorom3o*


somebody do it and post!


I'll do it! Somebody quick, give me a CPU and a HS so I can test this out! 
(I know I'm not being the guinea pig.)

EDIT: I have an old AMD K9 in the workshop that stiil works.....Hmmm....


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## FrankenPC

If you can yank the IHS off the CPU, then put a rubber gasket around the die and hit it directly with a water cooling solution. Why bother with any material interfaces at all?


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## Hailscott

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bigvaL*


Is that diagram to scale??


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## waqasr

Actually im going to try this tomorrow..My sandy is naked so i can just solder the IHS onto my BT..if the BT gets slightly damaged ill just lap it again..so virtually 0 risk..yay...but no, wait..my cpu is naked anyway so its already cutting out 1 material to travel heat through to, so it wouldnt work as well, but where the ihs is soldered onto the die, then it maybe worth a try.


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## slytown

I'm thinking there won't be good contact. Nevermind the temp issue.


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## hvacgaspiping

Silver solder doesn`t melt until it reaches 1250 degrees F. That chip would litterally be "toast" at that temp.


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## FrankenPC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hvacgaspiping*


Silver solder doesn`t melt until it reaches 1250 degrees F. That chip would litterally be "toast" at that temp.


Yeah, but you are talking heat over time. Couldn't the die endure it for a very short ....

HAHAHA!!! Sorry, I think this idea is a little outrageous. I'm just trying to view all the angles.


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## Rocks7ar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xz3rorom3o* 
somebody do it and post!

I will solder my pentium D 925 to a heatsink. I will post soon.


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## hvacgaspiping

Don`t use silver solder. 95/5 would be best; it melts at 450 F.


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## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rocks7ar*


I will solder my pentium D 925 to a heatsink. I will post soon.


Have you done it yet? It's been a couple weeks...


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## cleverchris

was he actually serious this does sound pretty ridiculous and awesome


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## Wheezy Baby

This is the same idea as the thermal paste that molecularly joins the two metals (HSF+CPU). Doesn't perform all too well.


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## Gauvenator

Quote:



was he actually serious this does sound pretty ridiculous and awesome


yah, pretty ridiculous..


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## Koffee

Imo it will be great, just i dont have anything to solder it with, guess i gatta hit up home depot.


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## Moto101

In the wise words of me... Good Luck and Have Fun


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## LoGGi!

Ok, why bother to solder? If you have a Copper HS then just melt the bottom and seat it damnit!


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## sonyvaio

Wow, this thread has been proven of being mighty interesting. Im gonna keep on reading this until I see some results.


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## ippyboy

Why solder...this sound great lol

Araldite 2014 is a two component, room temperature curing, thixotropic paste adhesive of high strength and toughness, with 120Â°C temperature capability, good environmental and excellent chemical resistance. Used for bonding of metals, electronic components, GRP structures and many other items where a higher than normal temperature or more aggressive environment is to be encountered in service. The low out gassing makes this product suitable for specialist electronic telecommunication and aerospace applications.


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## Tru_Reaper

i have a P4 from my old DELL so, ill try that if i get time, not promising anything soon though









if anything goes wrong, its a P4....so what?


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## hereonyourown

Any updates on it?


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## vigilante

Say it dosnt really work, could there be a possibility of the cpu getting hot enough to remelt the solder?


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## BigKriss

Has anyone considered how to get the 775 cpu back into the socket AND clip it up tight once its been soldered?
Just a thought..


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## DesertRat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigKriss*


Has anyone considered how to get the 775 cpu back into the socket AND clip it up tight once its been soldered?
Just a thought..


you remove the main retention mechanism and just use the HSF's mounting gear to keep the CPU in place.


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## sesnut

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vigilante*


Say it dosnt really work, could there be a possibility of the cpu getting hot enough to remelt the solder?


if your cpu could run at 400f it would >.>


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## KF4SQB

As an electronics man, I've got to chime in on this one. The only way to get a good solder joint is to have both parts hot enough to melt the solder. Just melting the solder on the HS then sticking the processor to it won't work. It might stick, but it will be what's known as a "cold" joint. It is a poor connection both electrically and mechanically speaking, and I doubt it would transfer heat very well, either. Such a joint is made of crystallized solder, and is very weak. At a guess, it would probably be about the same as, or possibly worse than, installing a HS to the processor without any thermal compound.

Also, think about the fact that a HS is designed to dissipate heat rapidly. You would have to get it to a very high temp to get the solder to stay molten on it long enough to do anything with it. You would also have to get the processor hot enough to melt solder. If you feel comfortable turning a torch on your processor, go right ahead.

To the person who said in an earlier post that it is difficult to get solder to stick to aluminum, try impossible, not hard. Solder will not stick to aluminum. It may "stick" after a fashion (like it sticks to, say, wood or cloth), but it won't "bond" like it does to copper.


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## IwubAMD

Oh man 3 years an no one tried this?


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## shurik06_83

easy way to do this with almost no heat epoxy and some really fine silver powder mix silver powder with epoxy slap it of let it cure and ur set


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## Geforce_GTX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shurik06_83* 
easy way to do this with almost no heat epoxy and some really fine silver powder mix silver powder with epoxy slap it of let it cure and ur set

Seat it incorrectly,and you're screwed.


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## shurik06_83

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Geforce_GTX*


Seat it incorrectly,and you're screwed.


thats what big flat head screwdrivers are for


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## Intrepid93

Read through all pages and no one has attempted it??
*
I AM DISAPPOINT GUIZ*


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## DuckieHo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Intrepid93*


Read through all pages and no one has attempted it??

*I AM DISAPPOINT GUIZ*


Why would you purposely damage your parts and waste time when it* will not* work?

Read KF4SQB response.... You have to get the solder hot enough. You have to heat up the entire layer of solder while it is between two metal plates.


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## to_the_zenith

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shurik06_83*


easy way to do this with almost no heat epoxy and some really fine silver powder mix silver powder with epoxy slap it of let it cure and ur set


Or save the hassle and just buy some Artic Silver Thermal Adhesive... 
But what's the fun in that! no fire, no damage, no lesson learnt.


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## GunMetalGrey

Are you guys ignoring the fact that solder melts at lower temps than most metal, once the cpu heats up, it will melt the solder, drip on anything. and possibly bridge connections that shouldn't be bridged? just a thought....


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## ShtSh00ttr

Its a creative idea but really really not worth the effort and risk.

1) Your CPU is now semi-permanently part of your favorite heatsink.
2) Unless your IHS is bowed serverly away from the die lapping both surfaces will give you a better contact patch for thermal transfer. Ive seen precision lapped IHS and HSF get insane temps without ANY TIM whatsoever.
3) Complexity & Cost? Just buy an H50 and call it a day.

As an interesting experiment? Sounds fun! Once I figure out how to create these pesky 10 micron nanotube wicks perfected Ill show ya'll up LOL


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## DuckieHo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GunMetalGrey* 
Are you guys ignoring the fact that solder melts at lower temps than most metal, once the cpu heats up, it will melt the solder, drip on anything. and possibly bridge connections that shouldn't be bridged? just a thought....


I believe common solder has a melting point of around 180C.


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## Behemoth777

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DuckieHo* 
I believe common solder has a melting point of around 180C.

And i'm pretty sure 180c isn't safe.

There are good ideas and there are bad ideas. I'll let you guys figure out which one this is.


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## dragonxwas

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IwubAMD* 
intel solders the die's directly to the IHS so i would imagine no

also, its really easy to heat up solder without it transferring the heat, or at least thats my experience, it seems to just suck up all the heat to the solder and liquify before heating w/e its contacting up

First soldering a heatsink to cpu will be impossible as the heatsink will dissipate the heat of the solder even before it sticks to the IHS..
Secondly soldering IHS is easy cos its just a small piece of thin metal which will easily heat to the solders temp and stick to whatever surface..
Third solder has lesser thermal conductivity than that of AS5 or other thermal compounds..
Fourth you will require a blowtorch to do so easily exceeding safe chip temps
Fifth INTEL OR AMD don't solder the IHS instead they use industrial grade epoxy adhesive with a decent amount of TIM filled in between..

PROOF : ?








and one last point I remembered is that Solder doesn't stick to aluminum (if you are going to use stock heatsink for the purpose)..


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## blupupher

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dragonxwas* 
Fourth you will require a blowtorch to do so easily exceeding safe chip temps
Fifth INTEL OR AMD don't solder the IHS instead they use industrial grade epoxy adhesive with a decent amount of TIM filled in between..


Some do use solder.


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## dragonxwas

^^
Those are actually laser soldered..The solder melts in seconds and is cooled under seconds..So actually chip doesn't get chance to heated up and man this guy is trying to do this to a desktop cpu so lets see the fun..

RIP DEAR OLD PROCESSOR


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## USFORCES

Lead isn't as good of a thermal conductor as sliver, copper, gold, nickel and aluminum.

Sounds like a waste of time.... Unless you use silver solder then again you have to heat everything up to the same temp for it to work.

http://ajh-knives.com/soldering.html


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## HopeUTKN

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USFORCES* 
Lead isn't as good of a thermal conductor as sliver, copper, gold, nickel and aluminum.

Sounds like a waste of time....

Lead? You mean tin... lead isn't used anymore.


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## PCCstudent

At best what you would have is known as a "cold solder joint" and this joint is not the desireable type. Heat transfer from a soldering iron is a condition you need to pay attention too, there are several techniques to use to prevent the heat from going to places you do not want.


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## Raptor_Jesus

subbed to the first thread in a while with good intelligent discussion going on.

Actually, lead is still used in rosin core solder. There is trace amounts of it. Looking at my spool, I have a warning telling me to wash my hands thoroughly after working, due to lead. But there is so very little in it, it's almost negligible.


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## killabytes

Leadless solder is an option. Problem is you'd never get the solder to fully cover everywhere. Think about it, you'd have pockets of air and voids. Then how would you check to ensure it's fully coated? Xray?

Stupid idea.


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## Roxxas049

Huh.. wha? subbed?? this thread is 3 years old.....


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## IwubAMD

First off this wasn't ever really supposed to be taken too seriously, but a what if, someone try it type thing.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DuckieHo* 
Why would you purposely damage your parts and waste time when it *will not* work?

Read KF4SQB response.... You have to get the solder hot enough. You have to heat up the entire layer of solder while it is between two metal plates.

There's a lot of different kinds of solder including solders that melt at lower temperature then standard electronics solder.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ShtSh00ttr* 
Ive seen precision lapped IHS and HSF get insane temps without ANY TIM whatsoever.

I call bull***** on this from 10 miles away.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dragonxwas* 
First soldering a heatsink to cpu will be impossible as the heatsink will dissipate the heat of the solder even before it sticks to the IHS..
Secondly soldering IHS is easy cos its just a small piece of thin metal which will easily heat to the solders temp and stick to whatever surface..
Third solder has lesser thermal conductivity than that of AS5 or other thermal compounds..
Fourth you will require a blowtorch to do so easily exceeding safe chip temps
Fifth INTEL OR AMD don't solder the IHS instead they use industrial grade epoxy adhesive with a decent amount of TIM filled in between..

and one last point I remembered is that Solder doesn't stick to aluminum (if you are going to use stock heatsink for the purpose)..

The heatsink can be heated to a soldering temperature pretty easy, they don't magically shed heat THAT fast if they did we wouldn't even care., yea you're not going to do it with a 10watt iron but it is possible to control the base temperature

A soldered joint would have WAY better thermoconductivity then a as5 or any other TIM, your comment to the contrary isn't even worth debating.

And both intel and amd _do_ solder their dies.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Roxxas049* 
Huh.. wha? subbed?? this thread is 3 years old.....

Awesome right.

So simple, heat heatsink to just above solder temp, heat IHS to solder temp, apply solder put together... profit.... DO IT.


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## The Duke

It's amazing what amazes people








Old but amazing thread


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## RonindeBeatrice

Best idea, just remove the IHS and solder the chip to the heatsink. It's so easy; I do it all the time.


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## damric

Do it! Post benchmarks!


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## PCCstudent

Forget the benchmarks,post pics.


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## DuckieHo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IwubAMD*


A soldered joint would have WAY better thermoconductivity then a as5 or any other TIM, your comment to the contrary isn't even worth debating.



You sure about that? A ultra thin layer of TIM vs a relatively thick solder joint?


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## dragonxwas

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DuckieHo* 
You sure about that? A ultra thin layer of TIM vs a relatively thick solder joint?

Leave it Duckie people wont understand..Its the ultimate battle of practical and theoretic ideas..


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## to_the_zenith

Just a random possibility thought here, based on a few comments in the thread... My skills in soldering are only very basic, so don't take this as even feasable.

So this whole idea is pretty much only for the CPU's that do NOT have thier IHS's laser soldered to the chip.

The problem I see is being able to heat both the IHS and heatsink to required temp to achieve optimal solder bond; then also being able to apply the solder and squash the two components together.

So rather than using a soldering iron or blow torch that some have suggested, what about heating the whole thing in an oven; would that work?

- take one IHS removed from CPU place on oven tray along with the heatsink
- place components in oven on xxxÂ°C (max?)
- while that is baking file down some solder (Not sure if this would be the best method...)
- sprinkle layer of solder on warmed IHS and place heatsink on top
- (add weight on top of heatsink ?)
- Bake for time x till solder melts, remove from oven & let cool.


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## DuckieHo

Flaked solder = air bubbles.

Instead of solder... why not use liquid metal? http://www.coollaboratory.com/en/products/


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## shehan360

How about using mercury?


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## sharpshoooter82

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shehan360*


How about using mercury?










some body said that once and it strated a big war


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## sharpshoooter82

do it if you have some old school crap yaling around


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## smash_mouth01

You do realise that the melting point of solder is 400 Â°C (752 Â°F) or just under you would want to make sure you have got the lowest heat melting solder.

Also I thought that the IHS where mounted with a thermal adhesive, have you got solid info that intel do do it this way because you might find that you would screw you CPU.

Yes they did I remember not the earlier core 2 's had it didn't it.

Also have you given a thought that you may vaporise the small amount of fluid in the cooler at those temps stripping 80% of the coolers performance.


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## ehume

Intel uses solder between some of its cpu's and its IHS's. I think they use indium solder. The solder apparently has a melting point of 70-75c and has been used as a TIM.

Might be expensive, but likely purchasable and usable.

Edit: Just thinkin'. If the melting point is that low, just slap some on, OC the chip and let the chip melt the solder.


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## j0n3z3y

Quote:


Originally Posted by *smash_mouth01* 
You do realise that the melting point of solder is 400 Â°C (752 Â°F) or just under you would want to make sure you have got the lowest heat melting solder

My WBT high purity silver solder has the lowest melting point I know of for something available to the public. 356 Â°F (180 Â°C). Good retort btw







The coolant would just evaporate and re-condense when it cools. That would'dnt be an issue, being that heatpipes are a sealed system.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ehume* 
Intel uses solder between some of its cpu's and its IHS's. I think they use indium solder. The solder apparently has a melting point of 70-75c and has been used as a TIM.

Might be expensive, but likely purchasable and usable.

Edit: Just thinkin'. If the melting point is that low, just slap some on, OC the chip and let the chip melt the solder.

Surprisingly, it is available. On ebay of all places, and here as well:

http://www.primelec.com/Indium-Corp-...-p8184047.html

Nice one, ehume. You learn something new everyday







Thanks.


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## Overscore

Alright guys... I just tried this out for fun and profit...
Not surprisingly, solder did NOT stick to either the CPU (an older socket 939 AMD sempron) die, though that one wasn't soldered on to the IHS only glued, nor to the heatsink. Effectively, the heatsink successfully, well, heatsinks my Weller iron.

The heatsink has a central portion made of copper.

Higher tech is needed.


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## rsfkevski

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Overscore*


Alright guys... I just tried this out for fun and profit...
Not surprisingly, solder did NOT stick to either the CPU (an older socket 939 AMD sempron) die, though that one wasn't soldered on to the IHS only glued, nor to the heatsink. Effectively, the heatsink successfully, well, heatsinks my Weller iron.

The heatsink has a central portion made of copper.

Higher tech is needed.


You need Silver Solder, not electrical solder


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## ehume

Silver has too high a melting point. Indium apparently has been used successfully because of its low melting point.


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