# [Guide] Installing Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO\Plus\X on Sockets 775/115X/1366/2011(V3)/AM2/AM3(+)/FM1/FM2



## Khaled G

Spoiler: Picture Guide



1- Unbox the Hyper 212 and put all the components within reach.

Note for LGA 2011\2011-3:Skip Steps 2 & 3.








2- Lay the motherbord face down.



3- Now place the backplate on the back of your cpu socket.

Note For AMD: Unscrew and remove the Bracket & Backplate that came with the Motherboard.
Note for AMD: Use the opposite side of the backplate.



4- Insert the standoffs from the opposite side and screw the nuts just a bit tight. Be careful not to damage your PCB from the excessive pressure.

Note for LGA 2011\2011-3: Screw the LGA 2011 Standoffs (Shorter ones) directly to the CPU socket itself, this means no need for backplate\nuts.







5- Flip the motherboard Face UP!




6- Time to rub the CPU clean and add the thermal interface material.



7- Unclip the fan from the heatsink. Note that the fan brackets are fragile and easy to break.




8- Remove the protective sticker from the base of your heatsink.
Note: Apply enough thermal paste to fill those grooves that formed during machining. Adding too much WILL NOT improve cooling performance.



9- Trial Allign the X-Bracket on the standoffs and make the required adjustments.



You may need to remove the ram for easier installation.




10- Place the heatsink on the cpu in the desired orientation (Hor/Ver).





11- Fold the X-Bracket, Insert it throught the heatsink, Open it again, and screw it in using a chriscross pattern one turn at a time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teiji*
> 
> Align the screws with the holes. Screw them in a criss-cross pattern (in order: top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left)...you may need to use a bit force.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheYonderGod*
> 
> Don't tighten any until all of them are in. Put each screw in about 1 turn then go over each one a couple turns at a time.





12- Clip the fan back on and connect it to the CPU_FAN header on your Mobo.





Ram Clearance:






Done !







Spoiler: Video Guide







Installation Stop motion (21 Seconds only!)










Spoiler: FAQ (In Progress)



Q: Is it better then stock/reference cooler ?
A: Yes, It is.

Q: Is it expensive ?
A: No, It's the best bang for your buck as a budget cooler.

Q: How much TIM (Thermal Interface Material) should I apply on the CPU ?
A: The thinnest layer possible to fill the gaps which can't be seen by normal eye and ensure an even surface for maximum heat transfer.

Q: Is it OK for the heatsink to wiggle even after tightening the screws all the way down ?
A: Yes, You can slightly rotate it in place, but it's movement is restricted by the bracket.

Q: What's the difference between Hyper 212 Plus/Evo/X ?
A: 1- Plus: 2 versions, Fan clip and fan bracket version, Uses Blademaster fans.
2- Evo: 2 Versions, Single fan and dual fan (Turbo), Uses Xtraflo fans.
3- X: A modified Evo, 4 Gen bearing fan, redesigned fan blades, X-vents & air guide.


*-=-Cooler Master Hyper 212 Club-=-*


----------



## Layo

Thanks, successfuly installed my first aftermarket fan, now I know how to do it








Only if the OS didn't mess up right after


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## Khaled G

My BIOS reset when I installed the evo and I had to reconfigure it to be able to boot to windows (SATA-III Mode).

check your bios. you might have the same problem.


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## Rickles

thats a lot of goop on the heatsink....


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## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> thats a lot of goop on the heatsink....


That's actually 1 drop from the included paste ! (Rice grain method) when I first applied it I thought I should've added more, but every time I remove the heatsink for cleaning or reseating I think it grows bigger every day









EDIT: A friend of mine bought the same cooler (the 1 fan version) and he didn't know how much paste he should apply ... So he APPLIED IT ALL !!!









I went to help him, I removed the heatsink (It looks like it's been glued with cement) and cleaned all the TIM from the cpu and kept the TIM on the heatsink !!!


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## Layo

That wasn't my problem, windows messed because the updates, trying last possible option now, burning W7 lite iso on flash disk...


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## Khaled G

Consider Disabling Updates


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## Layo

...after I install new OS...


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## Khaled G

I feel bad for you ... If you look to the bright side: You will have a fresh install to test your 212 (OC and benchmark).

don't forget to add your OC and your benchmark results to your sig rig (like I did with mine) I'll be waiting.


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## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> That's actually 1 drop from the included paste ! (Rice grain method) when I first applied it I thought I should've added more, but every time I remove the heatsink for cleaning or reseating I think it grows bigger every day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: A friend of mine bought the same cooler (the 1 fan version) and he didn't know how much paste he should apply ... So he APPLIED IT ALL !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went to help him, I removed the heatsink (It looks like it's been glued with cement) and cleaned all the TIM from the cpu and kept the TIM on the heatsink !!!


LOL! I feel bad for him. What kind of temps was he getting? lol


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## Khaled G

If I remember correctly, 7°C Higher than normal


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## Khaled G

Bump: Added AMD Installation

Looking For Pics of LGA 775 (Just a pic of backplate installed)


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## Bobos Khedr

Nice Guide


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## setishock

Just wanted to pop in and say thanks for the tut. I bought one of the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO coolers and have been hesitant to install it. I figured if I mucked it up I'd fry my mother board. But the pics here showed how easy it really is to get it installed.
Thanks again.


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## Khaled G

You're welcome, I'm Glad to hear that my [First] thread was helpful. I have some questions for you:









- What CPU did you install it on ?
- Did you get what you've paid for (Price vs. Performance) ? What's the percentage ?
- How much do you think it's worth compared to other coolers in the market ?
- Could you post a couple of pics of the front and back of the mobo with the Cooler installed ? (If clear enough, they will be added to the guide).
- Do you have any suggestions to improve this Guide.

Feel free to answer any of these questions.


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## setishock

The CPU is an Intel i5 3570K.
Just got it installed this morning. I'll let you know.
See above.
I just uploaded 77 pics (raw). Have a look and see what you can use. I uploaded all on the chip so some of them are pretty nasty.
Need more pics and more in-depth dialog.


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## Jon P

Thanks for the guide, I am now frustrated that I struggled with the scrap of paper (!) supplied and fitted my fan before reading your instructions. Fortunately I think I've done it right, but I do have one concern. As I clipped on the fan, I noticed that the cooler will still turn on the CPU (1155 / i5) It does take a bit of torque (ie. as I was pushing the fan clips on) but I'm not keen on this, it's clearly sliding on the thermal paste (only a bit used). Is this normal? I can't tighten the four cross-bracket screws any more and it seems to just be held by springs...

Advice much appreciated.


----------



## Khaled G

Sorry for the late reply, Just noticed your post.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jon P*
> 
> Thanks for the guide, I am now frustrated that I struggled with the scrap of paper (!) supplied and fitted my fan before reading your instructions. Fortunately I think I've done it right, but I do have one concern. As I clipped on the fan, I noticed that the cooler will still turn on the CPU (1155 / i5) It does take a bit of torque (ie. as I was pushing the fan clips on) but I'm not keen on this, it's clearly sliding on the thermal paste (only a bit used). Is this normal? I can't tighten the four cross-bracket screws any more and it seems to just be held by springs...
> 
> Advice much appreciated.


Did you seat the screw in the middle of the bracket into the base of the heatsink like in the pics below:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Insert the bracket in the heatsink like this:
> 
> 
> 
> There is a hole where this screw goes in *to keep the heatsink in place*:
> 
> 
> 
> The hole in the middle: once you insert the bracket, open it to the appropriate size:
> 
> 
> 
> once in place, place your heatsink on the cpu (WARNING: once in place, DO NOT remove it or you will allow air bubbles to go into your TIM resulting in more heat)
> 
> 
> Make sure your screws align same way as you did when installing the back plate (Middle position)
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Teiji*
> 
> Align the screws with the holes. Screw them in a criss-cross pattern (in order: top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left)...you may need to use a bit force.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't forget to *tighten the screw in the middle*.
Click to expand...

You should know that:

1- It's OK for it to rotate (wiggle) in place, but it's not ok of it actually MOVES in any direction !
2- Once the middle screw is in place, no need to worry. (List pic in this post)
3- Even if you tighten the 4 screws, It'll still wiggle because of the springs under the screws.
4- the screw in the middle when placed inside the hole in the base of the heatsink, It'll prevent any movement EXCEPT for in place rotation that will still be limited. The rotation ends when a heat pipe touches one of the bracket arms.

If your cooler moves in a different way, tell me and try to provide a pic or a video (Even if it's taken with a crappy phone).

Good Luck


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## Spiralmind

I have a Hyper 212 Plus. Looking at your pics, it looks like the heat sink/fan interferes with the nearest RAM slot? Am I correct or misjudging distances? Planning on getting Corsair Vengeance, but maybe I should get the low profile version?

Nevermind, answered my own question. Didn't see the horizontal / vertical options.


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## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spiralmind*
> 
> I have a Hyper 212 Plus. Looking at your pics, it looks like the heat sink/fan interferes with the nearest RAM slot? Am I correct or misjudging distances? Planning on getting Corsair Vengeance, but maybe I should get the low profile version?
> 
> Nevermind, answered my own question. Didn't *see the horizontal / vertical options*.


This ↑

And it depends on the motherboard layout too, you can't be sure until you try.

Here is the available options to avoid RAM clearance issues:

1- Install it in the vertical position.
2- Look for low profile (Thin) fans.
3- You can install the pull fan only.
4- Use low profile RAM.

You can also buy one cheap used (or even damaged) tall ram stick just for measurements.

Don't forget to post your results and I'll add it to a new section called RAM Clearance.

Good Luck


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## Kurtis

Very informative guide. Came in handy tonight with my Node 304 build. Thanks


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## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurtis*
> 
> Very informative guide. Came in handy tonight with my Node 304 build. Thanks


Thank you for your feedback, Glad my guide helped, don't forget to join the club.


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## bustamelon

Another satisfied customer here. Thanks! The included manual is, as you say, trash.
It was much easier than I thought. I always get palpitations installing these things....


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## aridneptune

Thanks very much for the guide.

A quick question: I've been using the 212 Plus for the past year or so but just bought the Evo (on its way now from Newegg). Can I use the 212 Plus backplate for the Evo? Unfortunately the cutout on the back of my MB tray is too small to remove the backplate without taking off the whole MB, which would really make installation a pain. Any idea if the backplates are the same?

(I'm on an i5 3570k)


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## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aridneptune*
> 
> Thanks very much for the guide.
> 
> A quick question: I've been using the 212 Plus for the past year or so but just bought the Evo (on its way now from Newegg). Can I use the 212 Plus backplate for the Evo? Unfortunately the cutout on the back of my MB tray is too small to remove the backplate without taking off the whole MB, which would really make installation a pain. Any idea if the backplates are the same?
> 
> (I'm on an i5 3570k)


As far as I know, There are two differences between the evo and the plus: Heatpipe Layout at the base, and included fan type and quantity. Other than that, They are Identical, even the backplates are the same (you can check on that when it arrives), so give it a try.


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## haloguy1999

I had my pc built by a guy at a computer store, he did a good job and all that. I wanted to install a CM TPC 812 cpu fan. I notice that when I go to put the back plate on the mobo, the mother board is "down". The bottom 2 holes are below the mobo window. I have a cooler master haf 932. Someone help. Btw I have a LGA 1155 socket and a P8Z77-V mobo.


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## Khaled G

I think you will have to take out your mobo, install the backplate then put it back inside the case and continue the installation.

Good luck


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## jbcraig1883

http://s685.photobucket.com/user/Jbcraig1883/media/2013-06-10203529.jpg.html

This is my first time building a computer. I did not see this tutorial until after I had installed this heat sink.

As you can see from the photo, my center screw is not tightened in all the way, nor is it straight. However, the heat sink itself does not move, the unit is level, etc.

Do I need to remove the motherboard, remove the heat sink, remove the thermal paste, and redo it? Or, as you can see, is it fine since the heat sink is secured?

Again, this is my first time building so I apologize for any questions that may seem like common sense to others.

Thanks!


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## dmfree88

So I bought this thing and i had to bend it to get it to mount into my pc. Its finally in there and seems to work fine but i noticed it rotates a few degrees each direction. never loses contact never causes issues or moves while stationary. but i can slightly twist it a couple degrees each direction. is this ok? Seems to function fine just a little worried


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> So I bought this thing and i had to bend it to get it to mount into my pc. Its finally in there and seems to work fine but i noticed it rotates a few degrees each direction. never loses contact never causes issues or moves while stationary. but i can slightly twist it a couple degrees each direction. is this ok? Seems to function fine just a little worried


That's completely normal, no worries.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbcraig1883*
> 
> http://s685.photobucket.com/user/Jbcraig1883/media/2013-06-10203529.jpg.html
> 
> This is my first time building a computer. I did not see this tutorial until after I had installed this heat sink.
> 
> As you can see from the photo, my center screw is not tightened in all the way, nor is it straight. However, the heat sink itself does not move, the unit is level, etc.
> 
> Do I need to remove the motherboard, remove the heat sink, remove the thermal paste, and redo it? Or, as you can see, is it fine since the heat sink is secured?
> 
> Again, this is my first time building so I apologize for any questions that may seem like common sense to others.
> 
> Thanks!


This screw holds the 2 bracket pieces together, and prevents the heat sink from moving around (Check post 29 above). It's not necessary to tighten it all the way down, but it should be straight. You don't have to remove the whole heat sink, Just pull the bracket out, fix it, then put it back in.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Insert the bracket in the heatsink like this:
> 
> 
> 
> There is a hole where this screw goes in to keep the heatsink in place:
> 
> 
> 
> The hole in the middle: once you insert the bracket, open it to the appropriate size:
> 
> 
> 
> once in place, place your heatsink on the cpu (WARNING: once in place, DO NOT remove it or you will allow air bubbles to go into your TIM resulting in more heat)


----------



## sherpa25

Hi,

Which guide should apply to the newer 212X?

Also, will the 212X's fan be a problem using RipjawsX on a Gigabyte Z87X-UD3H or Z87-D3HP (as I plan to use all 4 DIMM slots later)? For some, I read they put the fan on the other size opposite the RAMs, near the rear exhaust fan. Is this the optimal solution? Thanks.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherpa25*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Which guide should apply to the newer 212X?
> 
> Also, will the 212X's fan be a problem using RipjawsX on a Gigabyte Z87X-UD3H or Z87-D3HP (as I plan to use all 4 DIMM slots later)? For some, I read they put the fan on the other size opposite the RAMs, near the rear exhaust fan. Is this the optimal solution? Thanks.


1- IIRC, Socket LGA 1150 on your board works the same as 1155 and 1156, so use the 1155 guide.

2- I have a Z77X-UD3H Mobo and a Hyper 212 Evo with Fans on both sides and I can fit 4 corsair vengeance ram sticks though the 4th stick Will TOUCH the push fan. I cant promise it WILL fit because I have a different setup, so, you have to try it yourself.

3- Most users attach the fan in "Push" config on the ram side. You can (Forgive me if I'm wrong) install the fan on any side as long as the air direction is towards the rear exhaust fan.

Good Luck


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## sherpa25

Thanks Khaled.

Can you pls post a photo with the vengeance sticking on your evo fan, just for reference? I saw both the vengeance and ripjaws and noticed the former might be a bit higher. It's inconvenient returning stuff here, so it would be best to make sure before buying. Thanks.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherpa25*
> 
> Thanks Khaled.
> 
> Can you pls post a photo with the vengeance sticking on your evo fan, just for reference? I saw both the vengeance and ripjaws and noticed the former might be a bit higher. It's inconvenient returning stuff here, so it would be best to make sure before buying. Thanks.


Sure ! (Be warned that spacing varies within Mobos)
*
Slots 3&4:*













*Slots 1&3: (Default for Dual Channel)*




If you need more photos from a specific perspective, I'll be more than happy to help.


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## ds84

Which would be a better configuration? Pushing air in or Pulling air out towards the exhaust rear fan?


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## sherpa25

Thanks Khaled. These pictures are fine.

That looks quite tight. But I've read recommendations from some users to raise the fan a bit to give way to the RAM, didn't you raise yours?

@ds84, I believe the fan was meant to be positioned as pushing air into the heatsinks/rear fan. Some have installed it the other way though, but I'm not sure of the difference w/ regards to effect.


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## Khaled G

To answer all of your questions:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherpa25*
> 
> I've read recommendations from some users to raise the fan a bit to give way to the RAM, didn't you raise yours?


Yes, some people raise their fan a little but I didn't raise mine:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Which would be a better configuration? Pushing air in or Pulling air out towards the exhaust rear fan?


The most used configuration is this: (Front to Rear, Bottom to Top)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Which would be a better configuration? Pushing air in or Pulling air out towards the exhaust rear fan?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherpa25*
> 
> I believe the fan was meant to be positioned as pushing air into the heatsinks/rear fan. Some have installed it the other way though, but I'm not sure of the difference w/ regards to effect.


This


----------



## quiickted

Hello,

Thanks for the guide, I'm receiving my H212 Evo tomorrow along with Arctic ice thermal paste, however I have a question.

I'm not entirely sure what way and where to place the fan, I currently have a case with no front fan(s), no side fan, just 1 top fan and 1 rear fan that both exhaust.

What side of the heatsink should I place the fan and which way should it blow the air?

Thanks a lot, Joe.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quiickted*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Thanks for the guide, I'm receiving my H212 Evo tomorrow along with Arctic ice thermal paste, however I have a question.
> 
> I'm not entirely sure what way and where to place the fan, I currently have a case with no front fan(s), no side fan, just 1 top fan and 1 rear fan that both exhaust.
> 
> What side of the heatsink should I place the fan and which way should it blow the air?
> 
> Thanks a lot, Joe.


You have 2 options:

1- Pull air from front and blow it towards the rear fan.
2- Pull air from bottom and blow it towards the top exhaust.

Both will give similar results.


----------



## quiickted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> You have 2 options:
> 
> 1- Pull air from front and blow it towards the rear fan.
> 2- Pull air from bottom and blow it towards the top exhaust.
> 
> Both will give similar results.


Alright thank you, I was just unsure because since there is no direct airflow coming from a fan at the front of my case, wouldn't making the fan intake cold air from the front be useless?


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quiickted*
> 
> Alright thank you, I was just unsure because since there is no direct airflow coming from a fan at the front of my case, wouldn't making the fan intake cold air from the front be useless?


You should consider adding front fan(s) in the near future. What case do you have ?


----------



## quiickted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> You should consider adding front fan(s) in the near future. What case do you have ?


I have this case http://www.amazon.co.uk/Antec-One-Midi-Tower-Case/dp/B006TVQU6C

I don't think there is anywhere to place a front fan, there is a bottom fan slot, 1 rear slot, 1 roof slot and 1 side slot.

EDIT: Nevermind reading the reviews I can see apparently there is a front fan hidden, so yes I will probably install one in the future or should I remove one of the roof/rear fans and put it in the front as an intake?


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quiickted*
> 
> I have this case http://www.amazon.co.uk/Antec-One-Midi-Tower-Case/dp/B006TVQU6C
> 
> I don't think there is anywhere to place a front fan, there is a bottom fan slot, 1 rear slot, 1 roof slot and 1 side slot.
> 
> EDIT: Nevermind reading the reviews I can see apparently there is a front fan hidden, so yes I will probably install one in the future or should I remove one of the roof/rear fans and put it in the front as an intake?


OMG! That's the tightest case I've ever seen !









DO NOT remove any fan from this tiny case, just add as many fans as possible and follow the airflow direction in the pic I provided few posts back.

Install your 212 pulling air from front to rear.

And please fill your PC components in the Rig Builder.


----------



## quiickted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> OMG! That's the tightest case I've ever seen !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DO NOT remove any fan from this tiny case, just add as many fans as possible and follow the airflow direction in the pic I provided few posts back.
> 
> Install your 212 pulling air from front to rear.
> 
> And please fill your PC components in the Rig Builder.


So I make the fan face my ram, then make it blowing into the heatsink and not away?


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## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quiickted*
> 
> So I make the fan face my ram, then make it blowing into the heatsink and not away?


Exactly


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## leo5111

ok im a little confused, im going to install a hyper 212 on a FM2 6800 combo, do i remove the stock heatsink standoffs on the board or what, do i mount it same as socket 1155?? thanks


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leo5111*
> 
> ok im a little confused, im going to install a hyper 212 on a FM2 6800 combo, do i remove the stock heatsink standoffs on the board or what, do i mount it same as socket 1155?? thanks


Yes, remove the stock standoffs and install it same as socket 1155 but use the other side of the back plate. Like this:


----------



## quiickted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Yes, remove the stock standoffs and install it same as socket 1155 but use the other side of the back plate. Like this:


Hey, just wanted to say thanks alot for the help, I installed my Hyper 212 Evo onto my i5 2500k and I'm running much better temperatures than that bloody stock cooler!

It is summer here and my case only has 2 fans plus it's in a bad position but I'm averaging 45-50 degrees idle and 60-70 under load. (Oc'd to 4.2)


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quiickted*
> 
> Hey, just wanted to say thanks alot for the help, I installed my Hyper 212 Evo onto my i5 2500k and I'm running much better temperatures than that bloody stock cooler!
> 
> It is summer here and my case only has 2 fans plus it's in a bad position but I'm averaging 45-50 degrees idle and 60-70 under load. (Oc'd to 4.2)


Might want to reseat the cooler, 40-50 idle seems quite high even under those conditions.


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## quiickted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> Might want to reseat the cooler, 40-50 idle seems quite high even under those conditions.


I understand, when I first loaded it up we had some issues, for some reason the screws would not line up and we needed to jiggle it about a bit, plus who I installed it with, he's not really good at realising you don't need a lot of thermal paste and the chip wont just burn out if you don't put a ton on :L

Tomorrow I will remove it, completely wipe clean both the cooler and cpu then I'll re-seat it properly. May I ask, what temps should I be getting? When I first installed it I was at 40-45 degrees, which I'm guessing is wrong?


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quiickted*
> 
> I understand, when I first loaded it up we had some issues, for some reason the screws would not line up and we needed to jiggle it about a bit, plus who I installed it with, he's not really good at realising you don't need a lot of thermal paste and the chip wont just burn out if you don't put a ton on :L
> 
> Tomorrow I will remove it, completely wipe clean both the cooler and cpu then I'll re-seat it properly. May I ask, what temps should I be getting? When I first installed it I was at 40-45 degrees, which I'm guessing is wrong?


If your ambient is 20C then you should probably be getting idle temps of around 30-35 max in your case with little airflow, but preferably around 27-30C.


----------



## quiickted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> If your ambient is 20C then you should probably be getting idle temps of around 30-35 max in your case with little airflow, but preferably around 27-30C.


My room temperature is 100% not 20'c, summers can get hot here in the UK plus I have the boiler in my room which increases the temperature but I will reseat it anyway.


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## sherpa25

Another question, as I'm considering (not final) an mATX board (Asus H87M-Pro) since it's the only one I could find w/ eSata at the rear (dang, why aren't there much using eSata, wonder what others use for external storage). Anyway, what cooler would be advisable for a mATX board, as I noticed the cpu is closer to the DIMM slots, than w/ an ATX board. I was first considering the 212X for my previous plan of a z87 board, but now I'm concerned the spacing of the H87 mATX board might cause more issues with the cooler fan.

Also @Khaled, sorry for the OT question, but while at it, what is dual-channel (1 & 3, or 2 & 4), and how does it compare to 1,2 or 3,4 configuration? Is the former used only for kits, while the latter used if RAMs are from different sets? Thanks.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherpa25*
> 
> what cooler would be advisable for a mATX board, as I noticed the cpu is closer to the DIMM slots, than w/ an ATX board.


Most of the coolers will have RAM clearance issues. In the worst case, you will have 3 options:

1- Use 1 fan only.
2- Use low profile memory modules.
3- Water cooling (AIO or DIY).

The best way to know what you should expect is to go to a Motherboard (The one you want/own) club and look for the coolers they use.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherpa25*
> 
> Also @Khaled, sorry for the OT question, but while at it, what is dual-channel (1 & 3, or 2 & 4), and how does it compare to 1,2 or 3,4 configuration? Is the former used only for kits, while the latter used if RAMs are from different sets? Thanks.


Dual channel in memory is like RAID0 in hard disks, 2 memory sticks works as one with double capacity and most importantly bandwidth. The only difference between kits and single RAM sticks is that kits contain specially selected matching sticks (They are like finger prints, you can't find 2 identical sticks), but as long as you use sticks of the same model and speed, you're OK.

Most of motherboards have color coded memory slots, and in most if not all cases, they are arranged as:

Dual Channel:

Slots 1&3 or 2&4.



In some rare cases they arranged as:

Slots 1&2 or 3&4



Triple Channel:

Slots 1&3&5 or 2&4&6



Or Quad Channel:

Slots 1&3&5&7 or 2&4&6&8



Good Luck.


----------



## quiickted

So are these temps normal?


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quiickted*
> 
> So are these temps normal?


I live in a hot place (It's 33°C right now) and those temps are similar to mine. You should worry more about your load temps. As long as it doesn't exceed 80°C, you're fine.


----------



## Mr Wizard

Easily the best written pictorial explanation I've found as I was trying to figure out how to install my Cooler Master 212 Plus in a Cooler Master case...I just don't life YouTube for reference purposes compared to guides like yours. I intend to read some of your other posts when this new game box is finished. Thanks!

Regards,
Mr Wizard


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Wizard*
> 
> Easily the best written pictorial explanation I've found as I was trying to figure out how to install my Cooler Master 212 Plus in a Cooler Master case...I just don't life YouTube for reference purposes compared to guides like yours. I intend to read some of your other posts when this new game box is finished. Thanks!
> 
> Regards,
> Mr Wizard


Alright,

First: I'm glad my guide is helpful, I tend to pay close attention to the details and I don't like mistakes.
Second: I might make a YouTube guide soon ant it'll be bandwidth friendly yet same quality as the pic guide.
Third: This is my first and only helpful post here (currently), so don't bother looking for more.

Have a nice day.


----------



## bandots

thanks for installation guide khaled ,

i think you help a lot pople want to see your benchmark with this cooler how much temp compare to each other











memory to fan distance is too close ,this will be make bad air flow


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bandots*
> 
> thanks for installation guide khaled ,
> 
> i think think you help a lot pople want to see your benchmark with this cooler how much temp compare to each other
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> memory to fan distance is too close ,this will be make bad air flow


First: Thank you for checking my guide, I appreciate it.

Second: I wish I could do a benchmark, however, there seems to be a problem with my cpu as it's stuck at 3.5 GHz even when it's OCed it to 4.5 with EIST and C3/C6 States disabled, while temps seems to tell another story.

Third: My ram aren't that tall, sorry for bad pic.


Spoiler: Pic


----------



## 350drx7

Can someone please tell me what this stuff is under the standoffs? my cooler done this to my motherboard too? is it digging in or is it glue? http://cdn.overclock.net/e/eb/ebe383d5_SAM_7121.jpeg


----------



## Khaled G

After checking, Yes it's glue ... The Standoff is glued to an insulating washer and it was squeezed out due to applied pressure. I'm rewriting the guide from scratch this week.


----------



## rafa

hello! thank you very much for the guide, unfortunately I saw a little late, one day exactly...

that's exactly my question, is this only because I already read it and I resolved the small twists doubt.

I have a board X58UD3R Socket GA-1366, I use the large standoffs (not marked for LGA2011) and the guide says }

should i just use the LGA2011.?
its recommended to change them?

use artic silver 5.
my temperaduras are in idle
core 0 39 c
core 1 38c
core 1 42 c
core 3 38 c.

thank you!


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rafa*
> 
> hello! thank you very much for the guide, unfortunately I saw a little late, one day exactly...
> 
> that's exactly my question, is this only because I already read it and I resolved the small twists doubt.
> 
> I have a board X58UD3R Socket GA-1366, I use the large standoffs (not marked for LGA2011) and the guide says }
> 
> should i just use the LGA2011.?
> its recommended to change them?
> 
> use artic silver 5.
> my temperaduras are in idle
> core 0 39 c
> core 1 38c
> core 1 42 c
> core 3 38 c.
> 
> thank you!


Hello Rafa, and welcome to Overclock.net.

Your Load Temps are more important than your Idle temps.

If you check the 1366 section in the old guide, you'll find that they used the smaller standoffs. I can't be helpful in your situation as I never laid my hands on a 1366 board, but I'm sure you'll get more help in the Hyper 212 Guide.


Spoiler: Socket 1366 Pics


----------



## rafa

thank you Khaled G for your answer.
I decided to make the change of standoffs , disassemble my pc and uninstall the Coolermaster 212evo remove large standoffs and put the little ones to LGA2011 .

Unfortunately , when he went to tighten the nuts on the back , which will hold the backplate , I discovered that the tip of the standoff is very short and fails to engage the nut.

then went back to remove everything, put the longest standoffs , reapply the artic silver and reassembling the 212 evo .

to my surprise , thinking I had reset the braking -period and begin again the process of " accommodate " the thermal compund , I turned on the pc, and the surprise was that starting a couple of degrees cooler than the last time you clean and apply AS5 .

I assume you stay better located and better distributed the thermal compound than last time , hopefully breaking period ended this between 27-30 starting an idle of no more than 32

at idle , I am between 35 and 37 , reaching 39
as I try LOAD ? I use that program ?

thank you!


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rafa*
> 
> thank you Khaled G for your answer.
> I decided to make the change of standoffs , disassemble my pc and uninstall the Coolermaster 212evo remove large standoffs and put the little ones to LGA2011 .
> 
> Unfortunately , when he went to tighten the nuts on the back , which will hold the backplate , I discovered that the tip of the standoff is very short and fails to engage the nut.
> 
> then went back to remove everything, put the longest standoffs , reapply the artic silver and reassembling the 212 evo .
> 
> to my surprise , thinking I had reset the braking -period and begin again the process of " accommodate " the thermal compund , I turned on the pc, and the surprise was that starting a couple of degrees cooler than the last time you clean and apply AS5 .
> 
> I assume you stay better located and better distributed the thermal compound than last time , hopefully breaking period ended this between 27-30 starting an idle of no more than 32
> 
> at idle , I am between 35 and 37 , reaching 39
> as I try LOAD ? I use that program ?
> 
> thank you!


My bad, The standoffs used in the old guide LGA 1366 pics seemed to be the short ones.

Your load temps are the highest temps your CPU reach while under heavy load (Doing Numerous calculations). To make that happen, Just run the popular Prime95 (Small FFTs)

Idle:


Load:


Settings to use:


Good Luck.


----------



## rafa

agani thank you.
these are my Prime95 data

Core i7 920 no OC
CM212evo
Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R v2
4gb
MSI R6950 OC TwinFrozr III





wait for your opinion


----------



## Khaled G

Your TJMax (Maximum temp. before your CPU shuts down automatically to protect itself) is 100°C, That means your highest working temps should be around 80°C and that what the stock cooler will give you.

Your Highest Load Temp is 60° and It could get more if you let Prime95 to work for more than 1 hour but as long as you're under 85° you should be safe, you still have around 25° of OC headroom.


----------



## bpark0313

lol, when i installed my i7 4770K on my Z78X-UD3H, i forgot to take the CPU cover off before putting my stock cooling in, and some of the thermal paste was stripped off. my cpu on stock ran at 60C idle and went to 99C in under 5 seconds while running IntelBurnTest (i stopped it in panic) i also hit 100C regularly when playing TF2.
of course, i ordered the hyper 212 evo immediately.
now i get 25C idle and 65C on intelBurnTest. im very glad i got the hyper 212 evo









P.S. very good guide!


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bpark0313*
> 
> lol, when i installed my i7 4770K on my Z78X-UD3H, i forgot to take the CPU cover off before putting my stock cooling in, and some of the thermal paste was stripped off. my cpu on stock ran at 60C idle and went to 99C in under 5 seconds while running IntelBurnTest (i stopped it in panic) i also hit 100C regularly when playing TF2.
> of course, i ordered the hyper 212 evo immediately.
> now i get 25C idle and 65C on intelBurnTest. im very glad i got the hyper 212 evo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. very good guide!


Thanks for your feedback, and be careful ... Don't damage your valuable chip.

The hyper 212 is so good that I could use it with no fans on my stock clocked 3770K and it wouldn't touch 70°C. I only run it Push/Pull for the symmetry.


----------



## Ludamister

Hey everyone!

I have recently acquired a Hyper 212 EVO and tried mounting it. However, when I do a quick prime 95 test after I boot, one of the cores jump up to 95+ and I immediately shut it down. I removed it and noticed the TIM was well spread the first time around minus the corners so I applies just a tad more in the center, mounted it down tight as I could and tried again. A few degrees less on idle but still around 95 ish on load.

This is my setup.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3k0Ox

I noticed the first page mentioning different tim application methods and such. Although I'm sure it yields better results, I'm hard pressed to think that NOT choosing that method results in me having such high temps.

I've got a little wiggle room to rotate my cooler left or right by a few minor degrees, something that apparently a lot of people have to deal with so I don't think its that. I know Haswell runs hot but there's just no way it should be running this hot. I'm simply running stock with 3.9 turbo. Haven't even started to overclock anything.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ludamister*
> 
> Hey everyone!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have recently acquired a Hyper 212 EVO and tried mounting it. However, when I do a quick prime 95 test after I boot, one of the cores jump up to 95+ and I immediately shut it down. I removed it and noticed the TIM was well spread the first time around minus the corners so I applies just a tad more in the center, mounted it down tight as I could and tried again. A few degrees less on idle but still around 95 ish on load.
> 
> This is my setup.
> 
> http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3k0Ox
> 
> I noticed the first page mentioning different tim application methods and such. Although I'm sure it yields better results, I'm hard pressed to think that NOT choosing that method results in me having such high temps.
> 
> I've got a little wiggle room to rotate my cooler left or right by a few minor degrees, something that apparently a lot of people have to deal with so I don't think its that. I know Haswell runs hot but there's just no way it should be running this hot. I'm simply running stock with 3.9 turbo. Haven't even started to overclock anything.


Okay, there is definitely something wrong ...

Let's check your installation step by step:

- Did you remove the protective sticker from the base of the heatsink ?
- Did you tighten the nuts that holds the standoffs to the backplate ?
- Removing the heatsink after applying TIM will create air bubbles resulting in overheating.
- Did you tighten the screws on the X-Bracket all the way down ?
- Did you carefully plan the airflow direction in your chassis ? Do you have enough intake and exhaust fans ? does the problem persists when you remove the side door ?

Otherwise take this problem to the club, it's linked in my signature, they should provide better help than me.


----------



## Ludamister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Okay, there is definitely something wrong ...
> 
> Let's check your installation step by step:
> 
> - Did you remove the protective sticker from the base of the heatsink ?
> - Did you tighten the nuts that holds the standoffs to the backplate ?
> - Removing the heatsink after applying TIM will create air bubbles resulting in overheating.
> - Did you tighten the screws on the X-Bracket all the way down ?
> - Did you carefully plan the airflow direction in your chassis ? Do you have enough intake and exhaust fans ? does the problem persists when you remove the side door ?
> 
> Otherwise take this problem to the club, it's linked in my signature, they should provide better help than me.


1. Yes
2. Yes, with two separate screw drivers on each side to prevent spinning.
3. I didn't put enough info in that post. I removed it, looked at it, cleaned it off, applied more than the last time, re-sinked it, tightened the bracket.
4. Yes
5. I didn't have to plan airflow direction. I have an Azza Hurrican 2000 without any of the stock fans. I've got 2 Corsair SP120s on the heatsink, four Corsair AF120 Red LED's, two in the bottom front, one on the very top in the drive bays, one in the very back, I've got two 230mm BitFenix Red SpectrePRO LED fans on the top for exhaust and two more on the side panel for intake that are 200mm.

I took it to both there and here. After fiddling with it, I noticed that the voltage reading on CPU-Z was up at 1.344 cause of the stock auto settings. So I put a manual voltage in and it dropped down to 83C at load. In-game, max temp is like 63C. I'll mess with it some more. Probably do two or three very thin lines on it with the tim.


----------



## Khaled G

Great, So what's your current OC/vcore ? and try to lower your PLL voltage (Default: 1.8v, Intel recommended minimum: 1.71v, Mine: 1.5v)

I'm Running 4.5 GHz @ 1.29v though I could run lower. (I can oc to 4.6 at same vcore)

4.7 is in a different league ... 1.365 volts and mid 80s °C, Thought I'd share this since we have the same silicon.

You should be running 4.5 without any problem with that cooler


----------



## Newbster99

Well, I feel like a moron, but when I was putting on the backplate I didn't notice I had it backwards so the 3 holes didn't line up with the 3 screws coming out of the back of the cpu plate. I snugged it down then realized what I did, and fixed it. It put some pressure on the singles screw coming out of the cpu plate, but I didn't hear any bad noises. What's the chance I damaged my Asus Z87-A MB in the process?? It's a new build and can't fire it up for a couple days...


----------



## Newbster99

I never powered it up, so nothing electrical would have happened, just worried it might have broke some traces.


----------



## Khaled G

Please Add your build to the Rigbuilder then post your problem in the Hyper 212 Club, You'll find lots of helpful enthusiasts there.


----------



## MonarchX

I always have a real hard time installing this cooler. Sometimes it takes me 30-45 minutes not to do the whole thing, but to properly align the damn thing on the CPU without lifting the cooler to prevent air-bubbles. It is also easier to insert the X-shaped thingy before you actually place the cooler onto the CPU. After that, its almost impossible to get the X-shaped thingy to stay neatly in the very center. I was RAGING trying to get it to go there due to it getting on my nerves, which in turn was hurting my back. It always slides and I've yet to align it when the cooler is already on the CPU. At the same time I installed this cooler maybe 7-8 times on my PC without a failure. It just took me a long time to get it done perfectly. To do so, I would put the X-shaped thingy inside the cooler, align it with where the screw holes are with my eyes as I lower the cooler, and then place the cooler onto the CPU while holding the X-shaped thingy in the very center with my finger, which is tough! If I manage to align it with the screw holes without the X-shaped thingy sliding off the center, then its all good, but that usually takes like 5-6 attempts because its hard and tedious to keep your finger there without X-shaped thingy sliding off or without the cooler rotating when I'm trying to align the X-shaped thingy with the screw holes unsuccessfully. Once the X-shaped thingy slides off - you have to lift up the whole assembling, and do the same thing again - place the X-shaped thingy in the center, align it with screw holes with your eyes, and hold it down with your finger. I just learned to do it slowly, so that at least 3 screws end up in the screw holes as I lower the cooler onto the CPU. Again, if the X-shaped thingy slides off the center, getting it back to the center isn't possible, at least not for me. Maybe this would be easiest if you were installing this cooler outside the case, but inside the case its the most hateful procedure I've known!

I really hope water-cooling isn't as tedious to set up...


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MonarchX*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I always have a real hard time installing this cooler. Sometimes it takes me 30-45 minutes not to do the whole thing, but to properly align the damn thing on the CPU without lifting the cooler to prevent air-bubbles. It is also easier to insert the X-shaped thingy before you actually place the cooler onto the CPU. After that, its almost impossible to get the X-shaped thingy to stay neatly in the very center. I was RAGING trying to get it to go there due to it getting on my nerves, which in turn was hurting my back. It always slides and I've yet to align it when the cooler is already on the CPU. At the same time I installed this cooler maybe 7-8 times on my PC without a failure. It just took me a long time to get it done perfectly. To do so, I would put the X-shaped thingy inside the cooler, align it with where the screw holes are with my eyes as I lower the cooler, and then place the cooler onto the CPU while holding the X-shaped thingy in the very center with my finger, which is tough! If I manage to align it with the screw holes without the X-shaped thingy sliding off the center, then its all good, but that usually takes like 5-6 attempts because its hard and tedious to keep your finger there without X-shaped thingy sliding off or without the cooler rotating when I'm trying to align the X-shaped thingy with the screw holes unsuccessfully. Once the X-shaped thingy slides off - you have to lift up the whole assembling, and do the same thing again - place the X-shaped thingy in the center, align it with screw holes with your eyes, and hold it down with your finger. I just learned to do it slowly, so that at least 3 screws end up in the screw holes as I lower the cooler onto the CPU. Again, if the X-shaped thingy slides off the center, getting it back to the center isn't possible, at least not for me. Maybe this would be easiest if you were installing this cooler outside the case, but inside the case its the most hateful procedure I've known!
> 
> I really hope water-cooling isn't as tedious to set up...


Something is definitely wrong here... It shouldn't be that difficult to install, even inside the case. Ive installed this cooler numerous times without such a problem.

I think you should take this problem to the club (Link in my sig) you would get better help there.

By the way, The X-shaped thingy is called the X-Bracket.


----------



## dachiesa

Hi and thanks for this helpful guide. I am building my first gaming rig ever and enjoying it

CPU AMD FX6300 (6 core)
Mother board GIGABYTE GA-970A-D3P
CPU Heatsink Coolermaster 212 Evo
(Haven't started it yet, still waiting on the hd/optical/windows)

Before I ask questions, I'm glad I saw this post, because I will definitely run the one fan that came with the heatsink and blow back to the exhaust fan in the back.

My 2 questions, if you don't mind

1) I cinched the screws down all the way. Alternating and everything, they went down pretty smooth. Should I back them up? I am wondering if it will make too much pressure on the mobo/processor. Or if it's ok, I won't mess with it. But the next question might also answer this.

2) I used (yes, newb here) all the paste. In spreading it out I found it thicker than expected and difficult to spread. That being said, when I cinched down the heatsink, it oozed out the sides. I did get that much cleaned up. However, it seems like in forums most people think that too much paste can increase heat. That being said, should I try to start it up and see what the temps are in the bios first and see if they're acceptable? Or should I just buy some artic silver and redo the whole thermal paste, taking everything apart again.

FYI at this time, I don't plan on overclocking. However I might in the future (not sure my board supports it but my processor and gpu both say they're ready to overclock) and I'm wondering if there is a good program that runs temps/oc or if that's all done from the bios?


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dachiesa*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip...
> 
> 
> 
> Hi and thanks for this helpful guide. I am building my first gaming rig ever and enjoying it
> 
> CPU AMD FX6300 (6 core)
> Mother board GIGABYTE GA-970A-D3P
> CPU Heatsink Coolermaster 212 Evo
> (Haven't started it yet, still waiting on the hd/optical/windows)
> 
> Before I ask questions, I'm glad I saw this post, because I will definitely run the one fan that came with the heatsink and blow back to the exhaust fan in the back.
> 
> My 2 questions, if you don't mind
> 
> 1) I cinched the screws down all the way. Alternating and everything, they went down pretty smooth. Should I back them up? I am wondering if it will make too much pressure on the mobo/processor. Or if it's ok, I won't mess with it. But the next question might also answer this.
> 
> 2) I used (yes, newb here) all the paste. In spreading it out I found it thicker than expected and difficult to spread. That being said, when I cinched down the heatsink, it oozed out the sides. I did get that much cleaned up. However, it seems like in forums most people think that too much paste can increase heat. That being said, should I try to start it up and see what the temps are in the bios first and see if they're acceptable? Or should I just buy some artic silver and redo the whole thermal paste, taking everything apart again.
> 
> FYI at this time, I don't plan on overclocking. However I might in the future (not sure my board supports it but my processor and gpu both say they're ready to overclock) and I'm wondering if there is a good program that runs temps/oc or if that's all done from the bios?


Let's answer your second question first, Watch this:




Now, Back to your first question ... I recommend that you reinstall it from the beginning, screw everything all the way down and tighten it a little bit to make sure every thing is secure.

I'm planning for a series of videos to make everything clear.


----------



## General Crumples

I've just ordered a new EVO after my first EVO after having a disasterous install. Could someone help me?

When I was installing I noticed I had some of the screws in the wrong position. So I tried to take it off to redo it.

All of the standoffs became permanently attached to the screws on the X bracket. It was impossible to unscrew them no matter how much force I used from it and trying to do so actually broke the X bracket in two.

I can supply pictures if neccesary.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General Crumples*
> 
> I've just ordered a new EVO after my first EVO after having a disasterous install. Could someone help me?
> 
> When I was installing I noticed I had some of the screws in the wrong position. So I tried to take it off to redo it.
> 
> All of the standoffs became permanently attached to the screws on the X bracket. It was impossible to unscrew them no matter how much force I used from it and trying to do so actually broke the X bracket in two.
> 
> I can supply pictures if neccesary.


Quote your post in the Hyper 212 club AND supply pictures. Make sure to explain it all in detail to make it easier to help you


----------



## CM Felinni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, Lots of people were confused when installing this cooler and the included manual was trash, so I decided to make a guide.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: New Guide (Universal)
> 
> 
> 
> 1- For Sockets 2011 and 1366, Use these standoffs:
> 
> 
> Otherwise, Use these: (The glue is squeezed out from between the standoff and the insulating washer due to applied pressure).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Place 1 standoff in each of the 4 holes around the CPU Socket.
> 
> 
> Look at the backside of the Motherboard.
> 
> 
> Now prepare the backplate, For Intel: Install with this side facing the back of the motherboard.
> 
> For AMD: Install with this side facing the back of the motherboard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, Grab your nuts (No need for them in case of LGA2011 as the standoffs screw directly to the socket):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apply your Thermal interface Material:
> 
> Prepare the X-Bracket:
> 
> Install the heatsink in the desired orientation (Warning: Don't remove the heatsink after this point to avoid creating air bubbles in your TIM causing overheating):
> 
> Close the X-Bracket and pass it through the heatsink.
> 
> Open it like this for Intel:
> 
> Open it like this for AMD:
> 
> 
> For LGA 775: Use the inner gap.
> For LGA 1150/1155/1156, AMD FM2/FM1/AM3+/AM3/AM2: Use the middle gap.
> For LGA 1366/2011: Use the outer gap.
> 
> Screw it in, in a diagonal pattern:
> 
> 
> Heatsink firmly in place (It's OK if it wiggles a bit):
> 
> Time to install fan(s) in 3 easy steps:
> 
> 1- Screw the bracket(s) to the fan(s) and apply the noise dampers.
> 2- Clip in the fan(s) to the heatsink.
> 3- Connect the fan(s) to the CPU_FAN header.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Old Guide (Socket Dedicated)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: LGA 1150\1155\1156 Installation
> 
> 
> 
> 1- Remove the front and rear case doors.
> 
> 2- Unbox your cooler and look for the backplate.
> 
> 3- Install it with this side facing the backside of the mobo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like This:
> 
> 
> 
> 4- Now Get these Standoffs and nuts:
> 
> 
> 
> There are 3 positions in the included backplate to use for different sockets, for the 1155 socket, use the one in the middle:
> 
> 
> 
> Now, apply the screws and nuts, but DO NOT tighten yet (until all of them are in place):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5- Now use this head (included) to be able to tighten with a screw driver:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like This:
> 
> 
> 
> Time to Apply Your TIM: (Mine is as big as a drop of water and it spreads like this)
> 
> 
> 
> Vertical Mounting (If your 4th ram stick is tall)
> 
> 
> 
> Horizontal Mounting:
> 
> 
> 
> Insert the bracket in the heatsink like this:
> 
> 
> 
> There is a hole where this screw goes in to keep the heatsink in place:
> 
> 
> 
> The hole in the middle: once you insert the bracket, open it to the appropriate size:
> 
> 
> 
> once in place, place your heatsink on the cpu (WARNING: once in place, DO NOT remove it or you will allow air bubbles to go into your TIM resulting in more heat)
> 
> 
> Make sure your screws align same way as you did when installing the back plate (Middle position)
> 
> 
> You can't reach these screws if the fan(s) are installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't forget to tighten the screw in the middle.
> 
> 
> 
> Now Install your fan(s), if you have big hands, connect the MB_CPU cable first:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you have big hands, Connect this cable before installing the pull fan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: LGA 1366 Installation
> 
> 
> 
> Images are from Vortez.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: LGA 2011 Installation
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to Ramsey77 for the pics.
> 
> No need for backplate\Nuts. (Screw the Standoffs Directly to the CPU Socket itself).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should look like this: (Source)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: AM3 Installation
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to Bobbos Khedr for the pic
> 
> Installation is the same as the LGA 1155 but using the opposite side of the backplate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: FAQ (In Progress)
> 
> 
> 
> Q: Is it better then stock/reference cooler ?
> A: Yes, It is.
> 
> Q: Is it expensive ?
> A: No, It's the best bang for your buck as a budget cooler.
> 
> Q: How much TIM (Thermal Interface Material) should I apply on the CPU ?
> A: The thinnest layer possible to fill the gaps which can't be seen by normal eye and ensure an even surface for maximum heat transfer.
> 
> Q: Is it OK for the heatsink to wiggle even after tightening the screws all the way down ?
> A: Yes, You can slightly rotate it in place, but it's movement is restricted by the bracket.
> 
> Q: What's the difference between Hyper 212 Plus/Evo/X ?
> A: 1- Plus: 2 versions, Fan clip and fan bracket version, Uses Blademaster fans.
> 2- Evo: 2 Versions, Single fan and dual fan (Turbo), Uses Xtraflo fans.
> 3- X: A modified Evo, 4 Gen bearing fan, redesigned fan blades, X-vents & air guide.
> 
> 
> 
> An installation video I made with my dying camera:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *-=-Cooler Master Hyper 212 Club-=-*


This is a great resource! Great job!


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:
Originally Posted by *CM Felinni* 


> This is a great resource! Great job!


Thank You. I try to do my best.


----------



## zorphon

This is a great guide, thanks. Quick question though, I built this PC two years ago and I feel I used way too much thermal paste back then, so I wanted to reseat the cooler with the new thermal paste. Do I have to take the mobo out of the case or anything, or should this be possible by just laying the case on its side?

If I keep the bracket that goes on the back of the motherboard screwed in like it is, and just unscrew the "X" bracket, can I pop the bracket and heatsink right off and put it back on by just re-screwing the x-bracket down?


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorphon*
> 
> If I keep the bracket that goes on the back of the motherboard screwed in like it is, and just unscrew the "X" bracket, can I pop the bracket and heatsink right off and put it back on by just re-screwing the x-bracket down?


This, You don't need to remove the backplate.

Sorry for the late reply.


----------



## zorphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> This, You don't need to remove the backplate.
> 
> Sorry for the late reply.


Awesome, thanks for the reply anyway! I'll probably do this tomorrow. I was worried it was going to be a really time consuming ordeal but it shouldn't take too long to reseat it and reapply TIM.


----------



## Rockfella

Hey thanks. There is a small pin on the heat sink. I was wondering if you know the relevance of it. I am talking about the pin that is on the top of the base of the cooler. Very small pin.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rockfella*
> 
> Hey thanks. There is a small pin on the heat sink. I was wondering if you know the relevance of it. I am talking about the pin that is on the top of the base of the cooler. Very small pin.


Those pics should answer your questions: 56K Warning (Who am I kidding ? I'm 512k







)


Spoiler: Pics


----------



## Rockfella

That is the one man. That small pin circled in red comes under that base of holder when installed. There was no other way to install it. Was wondering if this is normal.


----------



## Khaled G

It Goes into one of these grooves to prevent rotation.





Spoiler: Moar Pics Here


----------



## Rockfella

That spring screws is 100% vertical in your photo. On my LGA 1150 it is not. Maybe I am missing something. I will check installation again.

BTW Thanks for the super detailed pics man. There is probably nothing more detailed in the internet about this cooler besides this thread.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rockfella*
> 
> That spring screws is 100% vertical in your photo. On my LGA 1150 it is not. Maybe I am missing something. I will check installation again.


It goes into the hole in the middle to act like an axis and to lock the big heatsink in place. Either you misplaced it or it got bent, I hope it's the first rather than the latter.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rockfella*
> 
> BTW Thanks for the super detailed pics man. There is probably nothing more detailed in the internet about this cooler besides this thread.


I like being helpful.









EDIT: Also Check this guide on how to add your rig to your sig.


----------



## Rockfella

Nothing is misplaced/bent AFAIK. I will double check and upload before and hopefully "after" pics. This is interesting. Thanks







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> It goes into the hole in the middle to act like an axis and to lock the big heatsink in place. Either you misplaced it or it got bent, I hope it's the first rather than the latter.
> 
> 
> I like being helpful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Also Check this guide on how to add your rig to your sig.


----------



## Rockfella

Rigbuilder done







Looks cool.


----------



## edwardm

Just ordered my 212 evo for my fx-8320. Can't wait to get rid of my stock "jet sounding" cooler, hah









The youtube video in the OP, does that video tutorial pretty much apply to the am3+ socket?


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edwardm*
> 
> Just ordered my 212 evo for my fx-8320. Can't wait to get rid of my stock "jet sounding" cooler, hah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The youtube video in the OP, does that video tutorial pretty much apply to the am3+ socket?


Only 2 differences:

1- The back plate would be facing the opposite side.
2- Use the holes in the backplate that corresponds to the ones in your motherboard.


----------



## edwardm

Thanks, ill keep those in mind


----------



## Rockfella

That small pin was not set to lock its rotation. Fixed now! Funny the PC stopped working in the morning while watching a video. Working fine post reset.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> It goes into the hole in the middle to act like an axis and to lock the big heatsink in place. Either you misplaced it or it got bent, I hope it's the first rather than the latter.
> 
> 
> I like being helpful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Also Check this guide on how to add your rig to your sig.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rockfella*
> 
> That small pin was not set to lock its rotation. Its fine now. Funny the PC stopped working in the morning while watching a video.


Run a stress test (IBT or P95 x64) for at least 10 minutes and monitor your cpu temp during the tests, to exclude overheating as a possible cause for the freezing.


----------



## Rockfella

Wilco.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Run a stress test (IBT or P95 x64) for at least 10 minutes and monitor your cpu temp during the tests, to exclude overheating as a possible cause for the freezing.


----------



## edwardm

Got my 212 evo, and WOW. I must say I don't know why I held off so long on getting this, MUCH quieter even on load and WAY better temps.

I still haven't seen it at the socket go above 49c on full load. Before, with the stock cooler, it would go to mid 60's on average, even above at times close to 70c.

OP's linked video helped a lot. Installed in about half an hour.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edwardm*
> 
> Got my 212 evo, and WOW. I must say I don't know why I held off so long on getting this, MUCH quieter even on load and WAY better temps.
> 
> I still haven't seen it at the socket go above 49c on full load. Before, with the stock cooler, it would go to mid 60's on average, even above at times close to 70c.
> 
> OP's linked video helped a lot. Installed in about half an hour.


Thanks for your feedback.

Just to let you (and everyone else) I just bought a new DSLR, and that means a new guide with much sharper pics and better video guide all coming soon.


----------



## marcelaioanei

Hello .I have a problem with this damn cooler and i dont know what else to do as i'm going bananas.

So i bought a new custom made pc some time ago, an intel platform with a gigabyte h97 hd3 motherboard and evo 212 cooler.

I was having bad freezing issues with very high cpu spikes so i immediately reinstalled the cooler but with no luck. Sometimes it booted fine but after a few minutes later the freezes began again. So i put the pc horizontally and took off the back plate and standoffs and only left the cooler. It was all good, no freezes, pc was working normal. The next day i installed the backplate and standofs but didnt installed the X bracket and again all was working good.

So the next thing i do was to install the X bracket and came to conclusion that the bracket was the problem. I installed the cooler in all positions and the problem still persists. A temporary solution was to gently lift with my hand the cooler like in the photo and the freezes goes away but the second i let go the freezes start again. EVEN with the pc horizontally i need to push the cooler from the bottom.

So my final solution was to NOT screw the cooler all the way down. I only screw it enough for the cooler not to fall down, 5-7 turns. If i screw any more the freezes start again. now its working normal but i'm affraid it will fall someday.

I'm pretty pissed that this happens on a new pc, i dont know whats the problem with it. It's always the X braket no matter what i do and always the bottom side no matter what possition the cooler is.

Did anyone else had similar issues? i might sell it and buy some other cooler as i can't find a permanent solution


----------



## edwardm

To clarify... I am assuming it was working perfectly fine with your previous cooler?


----------



## marcelaioanei

i didnt had any cooler prior to 212 evo. all components were new and my old cooler was 775 socket only so i couldnt test it


----------



## Khaled G

Well, that's strange







let's see what we have here:

- When the 212 is put on the cpu (Chassis laid down) using only it's own weight, everything is fine (Base Plate is fine)
- screwing the bracket all the way own causes freezes Even if horizontal. (too much pressure ? unbalanced pressure ?)
- Pushing the cooler from bottom (while secured with bracket) eliminates freezing. (Bottom screwed in fine, top loose ?)

Yup, it sounds that your bracket has something wrong. To verify that, do this:

- install it normally like in the picture you provided and test for freezing.
- Then flip the whole case upside down (feet up) and test again.

If it's the bracket's fault it will freeze at one of those tests, because flipping the case will use the gravity to pull the cooler to the other direction, as if you're pushing it with your hands.

Also the thermal paste will act as a fingerprint showing irregularities in the pressure of your Heat sink.

I also suspect the threads on the bracket or in the nuts, you can inspect them with a magnifier.

Good Luck


----------



## marcelaioanei

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Well, that's strange
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> let's see what we have here:
> 
> - When the 212 is put on the cpu (Chassis laid down) using only it's own weight, everything is fine (Base Plate is fine)
> - screwing the bracket all the way own causes freezes Even if horizontal. (too much pressure ? unbalanced pressure ?)
> - Pushing the cooler from bottom (while secured with bracket) eliminates freezing. (Bottom screwed in fine, top loose ?)
> 
> Yup, it sounds that your bracket has something wrong. To verify that, do this:
> 
> - install it normally like in the picture you provided and test for freezing.
> - Then flip the whole case upside down (feet up) and test again.
> 
> If it's the bracket's fault it will freeze at one of those tests, because flipping the case will use the gravity to pull the cooler to the other direction, as if you're pushing it with your hands.
> 
> Also the thermal paste will act as a fingerprint showing irregularities in the pressure of your Heat sink.
> 
> I also suspect the threads on the bracket or in the nuts, you can inspect them with a magnifier.
> 
> Good Luck


The bracket seems fine, it dosent look bent or anything and the material that its made from looks pretty solid and hard to bent. I also did tried to losen up the bottom screws and tighten the upper ones but same result.

In one test i had the pc horizontally and installed the cooler with the fan blowing down. It was working fine for 2 days and i tought i solved the problem but when i put the pc case on its feet it was freezing from first boot. And the thermal paste seems fine and pretty uniform after i remove the cooler.

At the moment the cooler is in the position like in the photo above. I dont know how much good will do flipping the case as i allready established that the problem is the bracket, also the bracket fits perfectly when i try to screw it so no unnecesary pressure there. Is the middle bracket screw that holds the 2 plates need to be tighten or more loosen? or it dosent matter?

When i try to screw the bracket i do my best to even the number of rotates on every screw but it dosent seem to make a difference and it always results in 1 or 2 screws that need be tighten more. Does every screw need to have exactly the same number of rotates? it sounds kinda silly


----------



## Khaled G

Fan blowing down, no issues ? Check your Chipset & GPU temps. (How would you do that when it wouldn't even boot ?)

The screw in the middle of the bracket controls the bracket opening/closing mechanism, It adds force feedback to the movement and lets you know when it locks into a certain position. It has nothing to do with pushing the heatsink against your CPU.

No matter how I screw my bracket, I always end up screwing it all the way down, the springs on each screw ensures even pressure across all 4 corners.

At this point, I suggest taking your problem to the hyper 212 club. There, you'll find more people willing to help which will dramatically increase chances of solving your problem.

Good Luck and sorry I failed to help you...


----------



## marcelaioanei

Temperature is fine, pc boots everytime but with some big delay and everything feels like when you play a game below 10fps with screen tearing. Thx for your patience and for your tip to post in the club thread.


----------



## maximsilentfoot

Hi everyone!

I recently jointed this site after building a new rig. Seems like an awesome community and this guide for installing the Evo 212 is a clear example of that!

Both the pictures and videos on this thread are super helpful (Khaled you rock). I recently picked up the 212 Evo after it was sold out everywhere (I don't live in the States so can't order from Newegg/Amazon). I do have a few things to clarify about the building process though:

1. the alcohol to be used on the CPU to remove the stock thermal paste - do we really need to use alcohol? I've heard of people removing it without any alcohol. Also, I've only been able to get my hands on some Isopropyl 70%, not 90%. Will that be an issue if I end up using it?

2. applying the thermal paste - I watched Linus's vid that Khaled posted (thanks dude!) and it seems Linus recommends the pea-sized method or line method (I'm going to assume he meant the pea method is sufficient for a 1150 cpu like mine with the line method being recommended for the 2011). A lot of comments and other vids seem to point at spreading out the paste before installing the HSF. Do you guys have any preference?

3. I'm a little concerned about my Vengence Pro ram being in the way of the fan. I noticed some pics in here where the fan actually makes contact with the top of the ram's heat spreader. Is such contact going to impact either the ram or fan's performance and longevity in any way?

Thanks in advance for any input!


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maximsilentfoot*
> 
> Hi everyone!
> 
> I recently jointed this site after building a new rig. Seems like an awesome community and this guide for installing the Evo 212 is a clear example of that!
> 
> Both the pictures and videos on this thread are super helpful (Khaled you rock).


Thanks, and welcome to OCN.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maximsilentfoot*
> 
> 1. the alcohol to be used on the CPU to remove the stock thermal paste - do we really need to use alcohol? I've heard of people removing it without any alcohol. Also, I've only been able to get my hands on some Isopropyl 70%, not 90%. Will that be an issue if I end up using it?


I actually rub my cpu with a clean cotton\synthetic cloth for about 20 seconds and it's as shiny as new. I don't use alcohol or any other cleaning materials. Some People use 90% isopropyl, it's your choice to decide.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maximsilentfoot*
> 
> 2. applying the thermal paste - I watched Linus's vid that Khaled posted (thanks dude!) and it seems Linus recommends the pea-sized method or line method (I'm going to assume he meant the pea method is sufficient for a 1150 cpu like mine with the line method being recommended for the 2011). A lot of comments and other vids seem to point at spreading out the paste before installing the HSF. Do you guys have any preference?


What matters is applying the right amount and positioning it around the center as the cooler will squeeze it out. The thermal paste is put to even out the surface of the cooler, to fill those tiny scratches. for small CPUs, the cooked rice grain is an ideal amount, for larger ones, two thin parallel\crossing lines should do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maximsilentfoot*
> 
> 3. I'm a little concerned about my Vengence Pro ram being in the way of the fan. I noticed some pics in here where the fan actually makes contact with the top of the ram's heat spreader. Is such contact going to impact either the ram or fan's performance and longevity in any way?


Due to the HUGE selection of MBs and RAM, determining all the scenarios will be really hard. So I'll talk about my personal experience.

First, I had a Z77X-UD3H Mobo with the old corsair vengeance RAM, the fan touched the RAM and pushed it by just a hair which is OK.
Now I have a B75 & Kingston HyperX Fury RAM, and it's low profile so it didn't even touch.

Here is a pic for my older setup, It's hard to determine if it pushes, but it does ... Just by a hair.



Best wishes.


----------



## CM Felinni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, and welcome to OCN.
> I actually rub my cpu with a clean cotton\synthetic cloth for about 20 seconds and it's as shiny as new. I don't use alcohol or any other cleaning materials. Some People use 90% isopropyl, it's your choice to decide.
> What matters is applying the right amount and positioning it around the center as the cooler will squeeze it out. The thermal paste is put to even out the surface of the cooler, to fill those tiny scratches. for small CPUs, the cooked rice grain is an ideal amount, for larger ones, two thin parallel\crossing lines should do.
> Due to the HUGE selection of MBs and RAM, determining all the scenarios will be really hard. So I'll talk about my personal experience.
> 
> First, I had a Z77X-UD3H Mobo with the old corsair vengeance RAM, the fan touched the RAM and pushed it by just a hair which is OK.
> Now I have a B75 & Kingston HyperX Fury RAM, and it's low profile so it didn't even touch.
> 
> Here is a pic for my older setup, It's hard to determine if it pushes, but it does ... Just by a hair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best wishes.


You can always adjust the fan bracket higher to clear the ram as the mount was designed to accommodate higher heat-sinks.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM Felinni*
> 
> You can always adjust the fan bracket higher to clear the ram as the mount was designed to accommodate higher heat-sinks.


Yes, I could also remove the rubber pads, which will give me the space I needed BUT the fan would slip, although only when the case is on it's back.

Or, even better, Motherboard manufacturers could standardize that design where there is no space between RAM slots, which is Sexier IMO.


----------



## epic1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CM Felinni*
> 
> You can always adjust the fan bracket higher to clear the ram as the mount was designed to accommodate higher heat-sinks.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I could also remove the rubber pads, which will give me the space I needed BUT the fan would slip, although only when the case is on it's back.
> 
> Or, even better, Motherboard manufacturers could standardize that design where there is no space between RAM slots, which is Sexier IMO.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

and put the CPU closer to the back panel I/O, move the VRMs to the top (see ITX models, even LGA2011 uses this layout).
and put the DIMMs closer towards the front edge nearly touching the 24pin header, i mean seriously why do they cram all those chokes/caps/VRMs on the edge when theres a ton of room near the CPU?


----------



## maximsilentfoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Thanks, and welcome to OCN.
> I actually rub my cpu with a clean cotton\synthetic cloth for about 20 seconds and it's as shiny as new. I don't use alcohol or any other cleaning materials. Some People use 90% isopropyl, it's your choice to decide.
> What matters is applying the right amount and positioning it around the center as the cooler will squeeze it out. The thermal paste is put to even out the surface of the cooler, to fill those tiny scratches. for small CPUs, the cooked rice grain is an ideal amount, for larger ones, two thin parallel\crossing lines should do.
> Due to the HUGE selection of MBs and RAM, determining all the scenarios will be really hard. So I'll talk about my personal experience.
> 
> First, I had a Z77X-UD3H Mobo with the old corsair vengeance RAM, the fan touched the RAM and pushed it by just a hair which is OK.
> Now I have a B75 & Kingston HyperX Fury RAM, and it's low profile so it didn't even touch.
> 
> Here is a pic for my older setup, It's hard to determine if it pushes, but it does ... Just by a hair.
> 
> 
> 
> Best wishes.


I just installed the evo 212 without much issue. However when I turn the PC on everything powers on including fans for around 2 seconds... Then it switches itself off . Then it switches itself on again after a second or so of switching off. It repeats this over and over. Any ideas?


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maximsilentfoot*
> 
> I just installed the evo 212 without much issue. However when I turn the PC on everything powers on including fans for around 2 seconds... Then it switches itself off . Then it switches itself on again after a second or so of switching off. It repeats this over and over. Any ideas?


It could be:

- Short Circuit: Recheck every single connection.
- Forgot to connect something ? 24 Pin ATX/8 Pin EPS/ VGA Power.
- Power Supply Failing ? Highly unlikely but possible

I suggest troubleshooting by:

- Disconnecting everything (All power and data connectors, RAM , VGA (Disconnect&Remove) & HDDs) then plug in 24/8 Pin connectors and fire it up.
- If it gives no problems, switch off, add RAM and fire it up again.
- If no problem, Add VGA (and connect it's power).
- If no problem add HDDs.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> and put the CPU closer to the back panel I/O, move the VRMs to the top (see ITX models, even LGA2011 uses this layout).
> and put the DIMMs closer towards the front edge nearly touching the 24pin header, i mean seriously why do they cram all those chokes/caps/VRMs on the edge when theres a ton of room near the CPU?


I totally agree with you.


----------



## epic1337

they could even fit an M.2 slot adjacent to the back I/O if they move those VRMs to the top.
the entire upper portion of the PCB could be dedicated to power regulators tbh, with the 8pin and 24pin closer to them than ever possible.

theres so much room for placing parts, they already have the idea on LGA2011 and some ITX boards out there, just shows how blind manufacturers can be.


----------



## maximsilentfoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> It could be:
> 
> - Short Circuit: Recheck every single connection.
> - Forgot to connect something ? 24 Pin ATX/8 Pin EPS/ VGA Power.
> - Power Supply Failing ? Highly unlikely but possible
> 
> I suggest troubleshooting by:
> 
> - Disconnecting everything (All power and data connectors, RAM , VGA (Disconnect&Remove) & HDDs) then plug in 24/8 Pin connectors and fire it up.
> - If it gives no problems, switch off, add RAM and fire it up again.
> - If no problem, Add VGA (and connect it's power).
> - If no problem add HDDs.


thanks i went through some of those before I posted. tried checking power connections, took out ram as well. one random time it just decided to boot without one of the ram sticks. put it back in and boots just fine and so far (touch of wood!) the battlestation seems to be alright. loving the evo 212 btw my pc no longer sounds like a vacuum! thank you once again Khaled for the wonderful guide


----------



## maximsilentfoot

does it take awhile for the thermal paste to settle in or something? my idle temps are quite high (50-55). installed around 2 hrs ago.


----------



## Khaled G

Your CPU is a monster but 50s are a bit high and the TIM that comes with it doesn't require curing time. whats your load temps ?

By the way, 2 new installation videos are in the works, 1 already uploaded (No Audio), the other is stop motion, and will have 5K (5120x2880) quality !


----------



## maximsilentfoot

does it take awhile for the thermal paste to settle in or something? my idle temps are quite high (
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Your CPU is a monster but 50s are a bit high and the TIM that comes with it doesn't require curing time. whats your load temps ?
> 
> By the way, 2 new installation videos are in the works, 1 already uploaded (No Audio), the other is stop motion, and will have 5K (5120x2880) quality !


thanks for updating the vids I will definitely check them out!

And the numbers i posted earlier weren't accurate sorry. Right now on idle they hang around 35. When gaming (BF 4) they seem to hover around 50-60 and are way way way quieter than the stock fans! Overall I'm very happy with them


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maximsilentfoot*
> 
> thanks for updating the vids I will definitely check them out!
> 
> And the numbers i posted earlier weren't accurate sorry. Right now on idle they hang around 35. When gaming (BF 4) they seem to hover around 50-60 and are way way way quieter than the stock fans! Overall I'm very happy with them


Your temperatures are perfect


----------



## maximsilentfoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Your temperatures are perfect


Thanks thats really comforting to hear! Was made possible thanks to your awesome guide. Keep up the great work!


----------



## sgarland68

I am trying to install the Hyper 212 Evo on a 2011-v3 socket (core i7-5960 CPU). The motherboard is an ASUS X-99-DELUXE. The EVO comes with two sets of standoffs, with the instructions calling for using the shorter of the two to install the fan. The problem is that the standoffs seem too short (the spring loaded screws don't reach the threads). I tried using the longer set of standoffs, but they don't appear to be tight enough and the fan is loose. any thoughts on how to fix this?


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgarland68*
> 
> I am trying to install the Hyper 212 Evo on a 2011-v3 socket (core i7-5960 CPU). The motherboard is an ASUS X-99-DELUXE. The EVO comes with two sets of standoffs, with the instructions calling for using the shorter of the two to install the fan. The problem is that the standoffs seem too short (the spring loaded screws don't reach the threads). I tried using the longer set of standoffs, but they don't appear to be tight enough and the fan is loose. any thoughts on how to fix this?


Try again with the shorter screws and make sure the screw in the center of the X-bracket is aligned properly with the corresponding hole in the base of the cooler, as it could be lifting the bracket up a bit.


----------



## juanitox

Hello,

I just bought a Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO, I'm wondering how is easier to install, whether while the motherboard is in the tower thru the hole in the back of the chasis or whether unmounting the motherboard?

Thanks for your suggestions in advance


----------



## Khaled G

It's up to you to choose what's easier for you. For me, I only remove the MB when I am replacing it, replacing the case or cleaning the whole thing piece by piece.

Think of this:

- Don't bother pulling out the motherboard unless there is not enough room for your hands or any of the cooler components.
- If you install the cooler out of the case then put back the MB, you might face trouble trying to reattach the 8Pin cpu power cable.

I installed it out of the chassis in my guide because I can't fit the camera inside to take pics and record vids, I wouldn't have done that otherwise.

Good Luck


----------



## juanitox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> It's up to you to choose what's easier for you. For me, I only remove the MB when I am replacing it, replacing the case or cleaning the whole thing piece by piece.
> 
> Think of this:
> 
> - Don't bother pulling out the motherboard unless there is not enough room for your hands or any of the cooler components.
> - If you install the cooler out of the case then put back the MB, you might face trouble trying to reattach the 8Pin cpu power cable.
> 
> I installed it out of the chassis in my guide because I can't fit the camera inside to take pics and record vids, I wouldn't have done that otherwise.
> 
> Good Luck


Thank you for the tips! Since I have to clean prolly I will install the backplate with the motherboard out and then I will install it to the chasis, and after that I will install the cooler, I think would be easier for me


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## svefn

Hi guys, want to ask some questions, first time building a rig.

Is it normal to apply quite a bit of pressure to screw opposite sides of the X bracket? Mine seesaws on one end when I have the opposite side slightly screwed in.

I did follow the guides and use the correct holes. I've also loosen the middle screw and it seemed to help abit. I did finally tighten it till bottomed out snugly in a star pattern and it does not wobble at all.

My 2x4GB RAM is unstable in dual channel mode (memtest errors) currently and I'm testing the sticks individually atm while trying to figure out if the 212 installation could've affected the CPU memory controller by being overtightened to one corner.

Thanks.


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## epic1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svefn*
> 
> Hi guys, want to ask some questions, first time building a rig.
> 
> Is it normal to apply quite a bit of pressure to screw opposite sides of the X bracket? Mine seesaws on one end when I have the opposite side slightly screwed in.
> 
> I did follow the guides and use the correct holes. I've also loosen the middle screw and it seemed to help abit. I did finally tighten it till bottomed out snugly in a star pattern and it does not wobble at all.
> 
> My 2x4GB RAM is unstable in dual channel mode (memtest errors) currently and I'm testing the sticks individually atm while trying to figure out if the 212 installation could've affected the CPU memory controller by being overtightened to one corner.
> 
> Thanks.


HSF over tightening affecting IMC is pretty much impossible, the chips are protected by a thick piece of copper IHS.

the probability of your memory kit being defective, or the motherboard's DRAM socket being faulty is higher.
try different slots if you can, often than not they're just too loose, or otherwise pins are too dirty.

i wish these mem-tests could at least detect which stick is causing the issue, i mean don't they know which bank they're trying to access?


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## svefn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> HSF over tightening affecting IMC is pretty much impossible, the chips are protected by a thick piece of copper IHS.
> 
> the probability of your memory kit being defective, or the motherboard's DRAM socket being faulty is higher.
> try different slots if you can, often than not they're just too loose, or otherwise pins are too dirty.
> 
> i wish these mem-tests could at least detect which stick is causing the issue, i mean don't they know which bank they're trying to access?


Hi epic, thx for replyin. Yea one of my sticks gave memtest errors immediately when tested individually on 3 slots. While another stick worked without errors, even tried Large TFT and Blend for abit. My mobo is new too.

I was reading on Tom's where quite a few ppl had overtightened the cooler and was then unable to use dual channel mode.

Anyways I'll try for an RMA and hope for a replacement. It was nerve wrecking installing this cooler tho, thought I might've bent some pins with that pressure..


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## Khaled G

Sorry for the late reply, I'm 250 miles away from home and internet here is rare. As Epic 1337 said, the metal heat spreader does a solid job protecting your cpu, you need a hammer just to dent it.


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## thegameksk

Hey guys. I loosened my xbracket too much and it fell apart. Its in 2 pieces. I have the 2 brackets, nut, pin screw, and spring. I am not sure how to reassemble this. Can anyone help? Thanks


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## thegameksk

Can someone erase my previous post? I was able to figure it out but I dont see a edit/erase button for my post. My case is a Cooler Master Haf x with a Hero VIII mother board. I was wondering whats the best way to put my heatsink? Vertical or horizontal? Thanks!


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## jleslie246

Has anyone ever modified their EVO? I need about 3mm cut off the top of the heatsink. Just trimming the heatpipe nipples should do it. I did not know if the heat pipes are vacuum sealed? If I caut and solder up the holes it may not work very well if they are vacuum sealed.

Im putting it in a Phantom 240. I assumed it would fit


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## neilmckinoz

Just installed the Hyper 212x in my box and love it. Bought it to replace the stock cooler. Your installation instructions were much better than the included ones. Many thanks

System

CPU: Intel I7 4770
RAM: 16GB Corsair Vengeance Low Profile (1600)
Motherboard: Gigabyte H97m -D3H
PSU: Corsair HX750i
Case: Corsair Vengeance C70 - black
Fans: 5 x Corsair AF120 silent controlled by NZXT Sentry 3 Controller (2 front intake, 1 x rear exhaust, 2 x top exhaust.
GPU: Sapphire HD7750 low profile card
Boot drive: Samsung EVO SSD 250GB
Data Drive: Seagate 3 tb
Optical 1: Pioneer Blu Ray Combo Drive
Optical 2: Pioneer DVD- R burner
OS Win 7 Home Premium

Orico External HD Enclosure containing 4 Seagate 3tb drives

No overclocking, no gaming. Primarily video conversion and rendering and general use


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## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Has anyone ever modified their EVO? I need about 3mm cut off the top of the heatsink. Just trimming the heatpipe nipples should do it. I did not know if the heat pipes are vacuum sealed? If I can't and solder up the holes it may not work very well if they are vacuum sealed.
> 
> Im putting it in a Phantom 240. I assumed it would fit


Although I don't know for sure, I wouldn't recommend this. I'll assume you can't return/ replace your Phantom, you may consider selling it and buying something bigger.

Chassis usually list Max cooler height in specs, same with coolers.

Good Luck


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## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neilmckinoz*
> 
> Just installed the Hyper 212x in my box and love it. Bought it to replace the stock cooler. Your installation instructions were much better than the included ones. Many thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: System
> 
> 
> 
> CPU: Intel I7 4770
> RAM: 16GB Corsair Vengeance Low Profile (1600)
> Motherboard: Gigabyte H97m -D3H
> PSU: Corsair HX750i
> Case: Corsair Vengeance C70 - black
> Fans: 5 x Corsair AF120 silent controlled by NZXT Sentry 3 Controller (2 front intake, 1 x rear exhaust, 2 x top exhaust.
> GPU: Sapphire HD7750 low profile card
> Boot drive: Samsung EVO SSD 250GB
> Data Drive: Seagate 3 tb
> Optical 1: Pioneer Blu Ray Combo Drive
> Optical 2: Pioneer DVD- R burner
> OS Win 7 Home Premium
> 
> Orico External HD Enclosure containing 4 Seagate 3tb drives
> 
> 
> 
> No overclocking, no gaming. Primarily video conversion and rendering and general use


Be sure to check out the Hyper 212 Club, It's full of useful posts. You may also want to add yourself by filling the form in post #1


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## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Although I don't know for sure, I wouldn't recommend this. I'll assume you can't return/ replace your Phantom, you may consider selling it and buying something bigger.
> 
> Chassis usually list Max cooler height in specs, same with coolers.
> 
> Good Luck


I ordered the smaller one. Ill save this one for another build or maybe someone will need one on here some day.


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