# Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX



## Toan

Does anyone know if I can fit 2 EK XE 360mm in this case? I've searched online everywhere and I can't seem to find the answer. The closest picture I can find that MIGHT answer my question is posted below.

I want to go with the same setup as pictured, EK XE 360mm up top with AP60s in push and an EK XE 360mm up front with AP60s in push behind the front cover. As far as I can see from the pics the front radiator does go down into the basement of the case. Maybe I have to go with EK's slimmer 360mm radiator up top to be able to fit the 360mm XE in the front?


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## dlewbell

I don't have that case, but just running the numbers, I don't see how it could fit. The EK XE 360 is 399mm long x 60mm deep. Fans are 25mm deep. 399+60+25=484mm. The Evolv ATX is 495mm tall x 510mm long. Either direction will have at least 1" (25mm) of unusable space just because of the shape. 510-25=485mm. It's likely worse than that, but I don't see detailed enough pictures to say for certain. The pictures on the Phanteks website make it look like the mounting location for the front fans is set back more than the thickness of the actual fans. I would guarantee that even with the top radiator pushed to the back, you can't fit another XE 360 in the front. If you look at using a slim radiator, it could change things, but you'll need someone who can take some good measurements to answer that one for you.

Edit:
I did a rough sketch in AutoCAD scaling from the website picture. I know it's not perfect, but it should give you a better idea of what the case gives you to work with.


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## Toan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> I don't have that case, but just running the numbers, I don't see how it could fit. The EK XE 360 is 399mm long x 60mm deep. Fans are 25mm deep. 399+60+25=484mm. The Evolv ATX is 495mm tall x 510mm long. Either direction will have at least 1" (25mm) of unusable space just because of the shape. 510-25=485mm. It's likely worse than that, but I don't see detailed enough pictures to say for certain. The pictures on the Phanteks website make it look like the mounting location for the front fans is set back more than the thickness of the actual fans. I would guarantee that even with the top radiator pushed to the back, you can't fit another XE 360 in the front. If you look at using a slim radiator, it could change things, but you'll need someone who can take some good measurements to answer that one for you.
> 
> Edit:
> I did a rough sketch in AutoCAD scaling from the website picture. I know it's not perfect, but it should give you a better idea of what the case gives you to work with.


Thanks for the response and the quick CAD scale. I'm going to microcenter later today, I'll pick up a 360mm EK radiator cause I need one regardless of position it will be in the case and I'll do some measurements before I purchase the second radiator.


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## ciarlatano

The answer is no. You can put one on the front and only lose some of the rad mount space. Not the worst thing in the world, and you can do a 240mm in the top.

Putting it on top will have the rad blocking half of the CPU block - not the most attractive look, and making it very difficult to work with.

You will notice that the build you pictured has slim rads, which tends to be the go-to for good looking Evolv ATX builds. I know that you are doing thick rads for looks, but in the Evolv ATX it is couterproductive and tends to just look crowded.


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## Toan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The answer is no. You can put one on the front and only lose some of the rad mount space. Not the worst thing in the world, and you can do a 240mm in the top.
> 
> Putting it on top will have the rad blocking half of the CPU block - not the most attractive look, and making it very difficult to work with.
> 
> You will notice that the build you pictured has slim rads, which tends to be the go-to for good looking Evolv ATX builds. I know that you are doing thick rads for looks, but in the Evolv ATX it is couterproductive and tends to just look crowded.


So I would be able to fit two 360 slim rads? Or a 240/360 is my only option?


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## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> So I would be able to fit two 360 slim rads? Or a 240/360 is my only option?


Most of the attempts I have seen required removing the front fan on the top 360 to make it fit. I just popped my case open and looked, and eyeballing it says that would be the only way it would fit (I have a 30mm thick 360 up top).

The best combo with the need to go as large as possible s a 360 on top and 280 or 240mm in the front. This gives you the completely lined with rads look you are going for - remember that the bottom of the front rad is not visible behind the midplate, so a 240 "fills" the space to the eye. Using a 280mm in the front actually looks better, it will line up the two rads front edges. Using a 240 or 360 in the front has the front rad mounted further back than the top rad, not as clean looking - plus the 280mm will outperform a 240, and you have excellent 140mm fans for the application already included with the case.

And if you are set on EK rads, make sure you get the PE 360 even though it is 38mm thick, not the awful SE (which is literally *the* worst performing rad line out there) - http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/ .


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## dlewbell

As Ciarlatano mentioned, top 360 with front 280 sounds like a good idea. I don't have any water cooling experience, but just calculating based on radiator area leads me to believe the difference between a 360 & a 280 should only be about 10% or so.
360*120=43,200mm^2
280*140=39,200mm^2


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## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> As Ciarlatano mentioned, top 360 with front 280 sounds like a good idea. I don't have any water cooling experience, but just calculating based on radiator area leads me to believe the difference between a 360 & a 280 should only be about 10% or so.
> 360*120=43,200mm^2
> 280*140=39,200mm^2


That is correct. Performance difference is very, very little to none. In this build, where it is obviously going to be way over radded (lol...is that a word?), there would be no performance difference at all. The aesthetics will be far more important, and the ability to utilize the excellent quality F140SP fans included makes it a no brainer.


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## Toan

Ok thanks for the quick replies. Just got back from microcenter and I picked up a EK PE 360. I'm going to have to order the 280 online.


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## Toan

After reading the review on the EK CE 280, it seems like its not a very good performer. Am I looking at the right one to order?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-coolstream-ce-280-dual.html

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/02/21/ek-coolstream-ce-280mm-radiator-review/3/


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## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> After reading the review on the EK CE 280, it seems like its not a very good performer. Am I looking at the right one to order?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-coolstream-ce-280-dual.html
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/02/21/ek-coolstream-ce-280mm-radiator-review/3/


The performance on it is fine, I'm not sure what you are seeing in that review that would indicate otherwise. The only rad in that review that is more than a few percent better is the Nemesis GTX, which is considerably thicker and too wide to fit through the midplate opening without cutting it, and even then it might not fit.


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## royfrosty

Gotten the Enthoo ATX glass edition on Tuesday earlier this week in Singapore. Probably the first few countries that had it earlier.



I was thinking to embark on project Tiny with this case. This case pretty much easy to fit in 360mm radiator at the top. But the front may have a restriction if one has a d5 pump to put at the bottom.

Any reviews on the Bitspower Leviathan Xtreme rads? It looks like HWL rads.


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## DopplerShift

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The best combo with the need to go as large as possible s a 360 on top and 280 or 240mm in the front. This gives you the completely lined with rads look you are going for - remember that the bottom of the front rad is not visible behind the midplate, so a 240 "fills" the space to the eye. Using a 280mm in the front actually looks better, it will line up the two rads front edges. Using a 240 or 360 in the front has the front rad mounted further back than the top rad, not as clean looking - plus the 280mm will outperform a 240, and you have excellent 140mm fans for the application already included with the case.


What about going thick 360 in the front (like a HWL SR2 360 MP specifically since it is very good with low speed fans) and a thinner 280 up top? something like a CE 280 or one of the thinner Alphacool 280 rads, and you could still re-use the excellent Phanteks fans from the front.


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## Toan

I went with the 360 in the front and I'm going to put the 280 up top coupled with the Phanteks fans. I've seen a build with this case where the person modded the top of the case right above the tray to accommodate the 140mm fans so they are hidden and out of the way.


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## ciarlatano

Keep in mind that there is a major issue doing it that way that you will need to address. The case has a very restrictive top so you will need to block up all of the open areas that the 280 up there is going to leave. Otherwise you will do nothing but recirculate warmer and warmer air to the 280.

That mod you referenced makes the top rad completely useless. The fans have no room to work. In short.....don't do it.


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## DopplerShift

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Keep in mind that there is a major issue doing it that way that you will need to address. The case has a very restrictive top so you will need to block up all of the open areas that the 280 up there is going to leave. Otherwise you will do nothing but recirculate warmer and warmer air to the 280.
> 
> That mod you referenced makes the top rad completely useless. The fans have no room to work. In short.....don't do it.


This is a very good point I had not considered before, thank you









So assuming 360 PE on top and 280 CE front, is that enough to cool an overclocked 5930K and a 980 Ti and still remain silent?


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## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DopplerShift*
> 
> This is a very good point I had not considered before, thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So assuming 360 PE on top and 280 CE front, is that enough to cool an overclocked 5930K and a 980 Ti and still remain silent?


It is definitely enough rad space for that. Just don't cheap out on the fans, or buy them for the color rings. Stick with high quality fans - GT, Vardar, eLoop, Phanteks MP and the like.


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## porro

Hey guys,

I'm getting the Evolv ATX (tempered glass) soon and was wondering exactly how thick a rad can be when mounted in the *front*.. I have my mind set on the XE 360 rad from EK, which is 60mm thick, so I would need at least 85mm (and 110mm for push-pull).


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## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porro*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm getting the Evolv ATX (tempered glass) soon and was wondering exactly how thick a rad can be when mounted in the *front*.. I have my mind set on the XE 360 rad from EK, which is 60mm thick, so I would need at least 85mm (and 110mm for push-pull).


He mentions for the front the overall room available, so yes 110 should be workable.


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## ricinsing

one thing about this case is trying to keep itopen I think to show it of. I got the case thinking the radiator at tope would go up a bit so you would only see fans, or vice versa. Was disappoined when I realized post purchase how ti worked.. anyway, where there is a will there is way. If you dont mind "modding the case" you can flush fit the radiator up top with the fans in top of case. There is a little bitit more noise slightly but not bad. Unfortunately post this pic I had a major HW crash on the MB so couldn't tune fans further. 240 45mm in Front and 240 30mm up top.


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## Toan

Just finished mine last night. I did mod the top to fit the fans under the top cover.


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## ricinsing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> Just finished mine last night. I did mod the top to fit the fans under the top cover.


Nice build.. same mother board I used so yes you had the problem of how to get the motherboard watercooling done with a a rad and fans hanging down.. hope yours doesnt have haeart attack like mine did! nothing to do with watercooling.


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## Toan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ricinsing*
> 
> Nice build.. same mother board I used so yes you had the problem of how to get the motherboard watercooling done with a a rad and fans hanging down.. hope yours doesnt have haeart attack like mine did! nothing to do with watercooling.


Yea that bend from the radiator to the top VRM was tricky. I had to figure out that run with random white fittings from a previous build before I ordered new black ones. It was a real tight fit trying to get my hands on there to tighten all the fittings once I had figured it out.


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## ricinsing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> Yea that bend from the radiator to the top VRM was tricky. I had to figure out that run with random white fittings from a previous build before I ordered new black ones. It was a real tight fit trying to get my hands on there to tighten all the fittings once I had figured it out.


I used a xflow radiator at the top, had it allot easier and gave me a straight run from MB. At the other end was a bit tight, but luckily I 90deg fitting from EK that swives so I could swing it to the side radiator. Hardest run I had was from GPU to CPU, that needed two 90deg bedns 35mm apart... fluked a extended twist turn that somehow turned out ok! Ithink I can only see the defect and will try it again when I get the new MB back in.


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## Boost240

Just want to confirm that you have 360 rad up top and you were still able to fit the back fan in. Also, the mod to fit the fans above the rad, was it hard to fo? And what about how restrictive the top outlet is? Did it have any negative effects? Thanks.


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## Toan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boost240*
> 
> Just want to confirm that you have 360 rad up top and you were still able to fit the back fan in. Also, the mod to fit the fans above the rad, was it hard to fo? And what about how restrictive the top outlet is? Did it have any negative effects? Thanks.


The back fan fits fine. I'm actually going to take it out since it doesn't fit the colors of the build.

The top fan mod is IMHO a 5-6/10 in the "hard" scale as long as you have the correct tools. all you need is either a metal cutting wheel, ruler, some sort of writing tool to mark ( I used a pastel liquid chalk pen), and various levels of grit sandpaper. If you don't have these tools, you could use an electric dremel ( one that plugs in, not the battery operated one) and a handful of "decent" quality metal cutting wheels.

As for temps so far my GPUs hasn't changed from my last loop, synthetic benches and gaming it ranges from 40-45c, for the CPU in synthetic benches and gaming it hovers 50-55c. I'm currently playing Overwatch as I type and my GPUs are at 47/42c respectively and my CPU is at 40c, I've been playing for at least 2 hours now. So it's safe to say that the heat soak from the radiators has already set in and the temps are already where they would be at max.

Personally I do agree that the top fans are a tad bit restricted since there is probably less than 1 inch of space for the air to move out of the vents in the top panel but it doesn't seem to make a difference.


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## ricinsing

I didn't actually cut the top to get the fans in. I just removed the top of the case and inverted it on a flat surface and using a small hammer I flattened out the support bars sides that were protruding down. Manged to find in the corsair sp120's by holding them in with tape first then sliding in the radiator tray. I only had to fit two in however as I have a 240mm on top but I think you could do same with 360. Only cutting I needed to do was a small pice above the unused radiator inlets on the alphacool but you would not have that issue with some other rads with no reverse side ports. Also had to drill 4 hols in top cover so I could screw in the fans and rad on one side.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> The back fan fits fine. I'm actually going to take it out since it doesn't fit the colors of the build.
> 
> The top fan mod is IMHO a 5-6/10 in the "hard" scale as long as you have the correct tools. all you need is either a metal cutting wheel, ruler, some sort of writing tool to mark ( I used a pastel liquid chalk pen), and various levels of grit sandpaper. If you don't have these tools, you could use an electric dremel ( one that plugs in, not the battery operated one) and a handful of "decent" quality metal cutting wheels.
> 
> As for temps so far my GPUs hasn't changed from my last loop, synthetic benches and gaming it ranges from 40-45c, for the CPU in synthetic benches and gaming it hovers 50-55c. I'm currently playing Overwatch as I type and my GPUs are at 47/42c respectively and my CPU is at 40c, I've been playing for at least 2 hours now. So it's safe to say that the heat soak from the radiators has already set in and the temps are already where they would be at max.
> 
> Personally I do agree that the top fans are a tad bit restricted since there is probably less than 1 inch of space for the air to move out of the vents in the top panel but it doesn't seem to make a difference.


When i modded mine I didnt need to cut the top bars out in the end. I just remove the top of the case and hammered out the downward facing flaps of the top bars to fit the fans in. Fitted the fans in from the bottom and held them up with masking tape whilst I slid in the radiator support tray. Only had to cut too little sections out to accomodate the plugs from the top side of the radiator so it sitted flush up under the case. I am using SP120 Corsair fans but only a 240mm rad so maybe harder to use my method with a 360.

Had cocnerns of air draw aswell and unfortuantley couldnt test too much before I had my MB failure. Howver I have seen in other posts people using 3M soundproofing etc to seal the top chamber from the bottom. THis stops the top fans drawaing warm air in from around the outside of the radiator if it is the path of least resistance and means they can only draw in fresh air from the top vents. Will give it a try, may not make a difference but cant lose really.


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## Toan

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ricinsing*
> 
> I didn't actually cut the top to get the fans in. I just removed the top of the case and inverted it on a flat surface and using a small hammer I flattened out the support bars sides that were protruding down. Manged to find in the corsair sp120's by holding them in with tape first then sliding in the radiator tray. I only had to fit two in however as I have a 240mm on top but I think you could do same with 360. Only cutting I needed to do was a small pice above the unused radiator inlets on the alphacool but you would not have that issue with some other rads with no reverse side ports. Also had to drill 4 hols in top cover so I could screw in the fans and rad on one side.
> When i modded mine I didnt need to cut the top bars out in the end. I just remove the top of the case and hammered out the downward facing flaps of the top bars to fit the fans in. Fitted the fans in from the bottom and held them up with masking tape whilst I slid in the radiator support tray. Only had to cut too little sections out to accomodate the plugs from the top side of the radiator so it sitted flush up under the case. I am using SP120 Corsair fans but only a 240mm rad so maybe harder to use my method with a 360.
> 
> Had cocnerns of air draw aswell and unfortuantley couldnt test too much before I had my MB failure. Howver I have seen in other posts people using 3M soundproofing etc to seal the top chamber from the bottom. THis stops the top fans drawaing warm air in from around the outside of the radiator if it is the path of least resistance and means they can only draw in fresh air from the top vents. Will give it a try, may not make a difference but cant lose really.






I have 3 AP60s uptop without cutting the cross supports out. All I did was measure the lip that you hammered flat to the edge of where the 90 degree is and just cut it out. So it looks like I just cut the lip off of the panel after I was done.


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## ricinsing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> 
> I have 3 AP60s uptop without cutting the cross supports out. All I did was measure the lip that you hammered flat to the edge of where the 90 degree is and just cut it out. So it looks like I just cut the lip off of the panel after I was done.


Ok I see what you mean. Will clean it up with that mthod whilst I wat for new parts. Does the 360 top rad stop before or after the the fitting on the side radiator? i.e if I got a 360 top in the future would the tube run be possible with a crossd flow or will I need to run the same way you have from left side or case to right side of case ( trying to avoid horizontal runs as much as possible for looks..


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## Toan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ricinsing*
> 
> Ok I see what you mean. Will clean it up with that mthod whilst I wat for new parts. Does the 360 top rad stop before or after the the fitting on the side radiator? i.e if I got a 360 top in the future would the tube run be possible with a crossd flow or will I need to run the same way you have from left side or case to right side of case ( trying to avoid horizontal runs as much as possible for looks..


The fitting will MOST likely not fit, unless you have a slim 240/280 in the front and even then it probably won't fit. The end of my 360 almost touches the front of the case and the top of the 280 is at least an inch within the end of that 360 rad, so the end of the 360 goes well past the top of the 280.

You'll most likely have to do it the same way as I did. If you look at my pictures, you can see the "EK" branding on the 360 above the 280.


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## ricinsing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> The fitting will MOST likely not fit, unless you have a slim 240/280 in the front and even then it probably won't fit. The end of my 360 almost touches the front of the case and the top of the 280 is at least an inch within the end of that 360 rad, so the end of the 360 goes well past the top of the 280.
> 
> You'll most likely have to do it the same way as I did. If you look at my pictures, you can see the "EK" branding on the 360 above the 280.


Thanks. Yeh most likely have to do saem if I change it. Will see how it goes with 2 x 240's, I have a 45mm in front and 30 up top. Reason I really went withthe 240 up top is I could then align the inlet on the rad witht he outlet on motherboard and do a straight run up to it. Goin 30 means I will need to do a special bedn to get to inlet like you had to do. Woudl probaly puta 280 in front before touching top if heat becoms issue but dont htink either way will make a huge difference unless I gett issues going SLi in future.


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## Toan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ricinsing*
> 
> Thanks. Yeh most likely have to do saem if I change it. Will see how it goes with 2 x 240's, I have a 45mm in front and 30 up top. Reason I really went withthe 240 up top is I could then align the inlet on the rad witht he outlet on motherboard and do a straight run up to it. Goin 30 means I will need to do a special bedn to get to inlet like you had to do. Woudl probaly puta 280 in front before touching top if heat becoms issue but dont htink either way will make a huge difference unless I gett issues going SLi in future.


Doing out of the normal bends when inlets/outlets don't line up isn't too hard. There are plenty of fitting options with dual/triple rotaries that make it a cake walk.

I didn't even plan out my run from the top rad > VRM > CPU and it worked out almost too perfect for me.


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## ricinsing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> Doing out of the normal bends when inlets/outlets don't line up isn't too hard. There are plenty of fitting options with dual/triple rotaries that make it a cake walk.
> 
> I didn't even plan out my run from the top rad > VRM > CPU and it worked out almost too perfect for me.


Yeh the bendingand fitting not to much of worry, just trying to keep as clean as possible for this build..below is best I coud get from the keep it simple approach.. at one satge I was contemplating a 140 rad on back end withthe fan on outside of case, decided to just go for top at monet to keep open the internals... but if need to go 360 will have to think


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## paskowitz

Right now I am likely going to stay with my current setup, but maybe come the holidays I will start a new build (case and loop). I am aware the SE and XE 360s will be a tight fit. I am prepared to make permanent modification if necessary. Other than that, any specific feedback?

Quick rundown:

Case: Evolv ATX Tempered Glass

Rads
- Top: EK SE 360
- Front: EK XE 360

Pump/Res
- EK-DBAY D5 PWM MX - Acetal (custom mounted between PSU and front rad, under PSU cover)

Fans
- Noiseblocker Eloops for the rads (2x top, 3x front)
- 1x Noctua NF-A14 2000rpm Industrial for exhaust
- 1x 120mm x 12mm Syth fan pull mounted on the top (to keep air from recirculating)
- Maybe TT Riing fans (if I do a certain mod)

Tubing
- Straight hard tubing (material undecided. copper, glass, PETG, treated carbon fiber, IDK)

Possible mods
- Glass front panel (would pair with Riing fans)
- Vented top panel (only if I can ensure it can be professionally/cleanly done)

Future Expansion Plans
- Smaller 1000W EVGA GX PSU
- Water cooled SSD (why not?)
- Replace current 980 Ti with 1080 Ti
- Wait for Cannonlake for new CPU and mobo
- Then maybe SLI
- Water cooled RAM
- Maybe a custom acrylic res

Mock-up

* Image is to scale and accurately measured


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## ricinsing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Right now I am likely going to stay with my current setup, but maybe come the holidays I will start a new build (case and loop). I am aware the SE and XE 360s will be a tight fit. I am prepared to make permanent modification if necessary. Other than that, any specific feedback?
> 
> Quick rundown:
> 
> Case: Evolv ATX Tempered Glass
> 
> Rads
> - Top: EK SE 360
> - Front: EK XE 360
> 
> Pump/Res
> - EK-DBAY D5 PWM MX - Acetal (custom mounted between PSU and front rad, under PSU cover)
> 
> Fans
> - Noiseblocker Eloops for the rads (2x top, 3x front)
> - 1x Noctua NF-A14 2000rpm Industrial for exhaust
> - 1x 120mm x 12mm Syth fan pull mounted on the top (to keep air from recirculating)
> - Maybe TT Riing fans (if I do a certain mod)
> 
> Tubing
> - Straight hard tubing (material undecided. copper, glass, PETG, treated carbon fiber, IDK)
> 
> Possible mods
> - Glass front panel (would pair with Riing fans)
> - Vented top panel (only if I can ensure it can be professionally/cleanly done)
> 
> Future Expansion Plans
> - Smaller 1000W EVGA GX PSU
> - Water cooled SSD (why not?)
> - Replace current 980 Ti with 1080 Ti
> - Wait for Cannonlake for new CPU and mobo
> - Then maybe SLI
> - Water cooled RAM
> - Maybe a custom acrylic res
> 
> Mock-up
> 
> * Image is to scale and accurately measured


Certainly going to be a hi end build. Just a couple of things

- The case is not that big, depending on what look your going for if you waterblock everything you want to do I woudl go for a bigger full tower style case.. SM-8 will be the style of case I go for when do a large build. You will be modding allot. ike the Idea of modding top of case to let more air in.. will be looking into it once I do some airflow tests.

- Intrestied on fan setup, so you ae going to go for 2 push and 1 pull on the same rad with different fans? Not sure I get it? I undersand the eloops have issue with setup on a rad, i.e you can only do Push due to design and if you are going to mount them in a modded top the space is tight. Do you plan to have rad and fans below the holder? If so then you will run into use maybe with all the water loop you want have. IF you get a 360 up there the re-circualtion issue shoud not be too bad if at all,

- You will certainly have time to thnk about it, Cannonlak not out till around Q2 next year so by then who knows what will be available!


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## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ricinsing*
> 
> Certainly going to be a hi end build. Just a couple of things
> 
> - The case is not that big, depending on what look your going for if you waterblock everything you want to do I woudl go for a bigger full tower style case.. SM-8 will be the style of case I go for when do a large build. You will be modding allot. ike the Idea of modding top of case to let more air in.. will be looking into it once I do some airflow tests.
> 
> - Intrestied on fan setup, so you ae going to go for 2 push and 1 pull on the same rad with different fans? Not sure I get it? I undersand the eloops have issue with setup on a rad, i.e you can only do Push due to design and if you are going to mount them in a modded top the space is tight. Do you plan to have rad and fans below the holder? If so then you will run into use maybe with all the water loop you want have. IF you get a 360 up there the re-circualtion issue shoud not be too bad if at all,
> 
> - You will certainly have time to thnk about it, Cannonlak not out till around Q2 next year so by then who knows what will be available!


Thanks for the reply.

While I am sure it would be easier to work in, I actually like the idea of squeezing everything in there. I do wish the Evolv ATX had another inch or two of height. Caselabs is also very expensive... not that you don't get what you pay for. As for the cutting vents in the top, that would be to let hot air out.

Thanks for the heads up on the Noiseblockers. I guess I could use a fan gasket as a spacer, but that doesn't mean the acoustics will be good. I'll have to experiment. In terms of airflow. the top would be push with a single thin pull fan on the right. The pull fan is there because of the recirculation issue. This fan isn't going to pull much air away from the radiator, but it will ensure warm air doesn't flow back into the main chamber. If this setup doesn't work I have no problem going with a 280 up top. The front rad would be push pull. The fans would be on the holder, then the rad, and then the pull fans on the rad. The rad would be orientated with the ports at the top. IIRC this is the only way it will fit.

I do have plenty of time. It's not like my current setup is not cutting it, it just doesn't give me space to cool an SLI config. Who knows, I may even go scratch built if I can muster the determination to learn CAD.


----------



## viperguy212

Hey all,

Over the next two months or so I'll be undergoing a new build in a Tempered Glass Evolv Atx. I'm pretty much just waiting on the case at this point.

Here is a VERY ROUGH mock up in Sketchup of some of the rads/mobo/cards, etc. Feel free to use as needed (combo of files found online). Google Drive download link here.

Parts:

Alpha Cool 360x30 xflow Radiator
Alpha Cool 240x45 xflow Radiator
Clear PETG
EK-FB ASUS M8G Monoblock
EK 1080 water block or EVGA hydrocoper (not added yet)
XSPC 170 res/d5 pump combo


----------



## Boost240

I need a favor. I just got 3 Want San Ace 120 x 38mm fans without thinking if it'll actually fit in the Evolv. Looking at some pics online there doesn't seem to be any additional space in front of the stock fans and the filter. Can one of you guys kindly check for me please. Thanks.


----------



## ricinsing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boost240*
> 
> I need a favor. I just got 3 Want San Ace 120 x 38mm fans without thinking if it'll actually fit in the Evolv. Looking at some pics online there doesn't seem to be any additional space in front of the stock fans and the filter. Can one of you guys kindly check for me please. Thanks.


Correct, you would have to remove the dust filter as there is less that about 8mm clearance. The dust filter has the retaining holes for the front cover in it as well so you actually need to modify the filter to retain the frame with clips. The front cover would pose a problem then for 3 fans as the lower fan would be blocked by the HDD light bar that protrudes about 8mm aswell into the cavity so unless you modify that you could only run 2 fans.

I run 3 TT Riing 120mm x 25mm in the front.


----------



## Boost240

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ricinsing*
> 
> Correct, you would have to remove the dust filter as there is less that about 8mm clearance. The dust filter has the retaining holes for the front cover in it as well so you actually need to modify the filter to retain the frame with clips. The front cover would pose a problem then for 3 fans as the lower fan would be blocked by the HDD light bar that protrudes about 8mm aswell into the cavity so unless you modify that you could only run 2 fans.
> 
> I run 3 TT Riing 120mm x 25mm in the front.


I was afraid of that. Ah well. Thanks.


----------



## ricinsing

Finally finshed the build .. Mark II of Tempered Tantrum... going to build log on Pcpartpicker.com of the ordeal...still got to change cables due to one the tantrums this thing threw and there on the way...


----------



## paskowitz

Pulled the trigger on an Evolv TG. Will post picks when it's complete.


----------



## eaglesfan398

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> Over the next two months or so I'll be undergoing a new build in a Tempered Glass Evolv Atx. I'm pretty much just waiting on the case at this point.
> 
> Here is a VERY ROUGH mock up in Sketchup of some of the rads/mobo/cards, etc. Feel free to use as needed (combo of files found online). Google Drive download link here.
> 
> Parts:
> 
> Alpha Cool 360x30 xflow Radiator
> Alpha Cool 240x45 xflow Radiator
> Clear PETG
> EK-FB ASUS M8G Monoblock
> EK 1080 water block or EVGA hydrocoper (not added yet)
> XSPC 170 res/d5 pump combo


Do you think with a tight fit a photon 270 pump combo would fit with the d5?


----------



## Toan

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ricinsing*
> 
> Finally finshed the build .. Mark II of Tempered Tantrum... going to build log on Pcpartpicker.com of the ordeal...still got to change cables due to one the tantrums this thing threw and there on the way...






Looks great. I really like the blue.

Here is mine with some natural lighting. I love the EKWB on the Asus mobo. Really ties everything up nice and tight


----------



## donmega1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Right now I am likely going to stay with my current setup, but maybe come the holidays I will start a new build (case and loop). I am aware the SE and XE 360s will be a tight fit. I am prepared to make permanent modification if necessary. Other than that, any specific feedback?
> 
> Quick rundown:
> 
> Case: Evolv ATX Tempered Glass
> 
> Rads
> - Top: EK SE 360
> - Front: EK XE 360
> 
> Pump/Res
> - EK-DBAY D5 PWM MX - Acetal (custom mounted between PSU and front rad, under PSU cover)
> 
> Fans
> - Noiseblocker Eloops for the rads (2x top, 3x front)
> - 1x Noctua NF-A14 2000rpm Industrial for exhaust
> - 1x 120mm x 12mm Syth fan pull mounted on the top (to keep air from recirculating)
> - Maybe TT Riing fans (if I do a certain mod)
> 
> Tubing
> - Straight hard tubing (material undecided. copper, glass, PETG, treated carbon fiber, IDK)
> 
> Possible mods
> - Glass front panel (would pair with Riing fans)
> - Vented top panel (only if I can ensure it can be professionally/cleanly done)
> 
> Future Expansion Plans
> - Smaller 1000W EVGA GX PSU
> - Water cooled SSD (why not?)
> - Replace current 980 Ti with 1080 Ti
> - Wait for Cannonlake for new CPU and mobo
> - Then maybe SLI
> - Water cooled RAM
> - Maybe a custom acrylic res
> 
> Mock-up
> 
> * Image is to scale and accurately measured


How is the tubing going through the underside into the main case, is that metal part removable?


----------



## Toan

There is a small plate that can be removed to fit larger radiators, but from the looks of his planning he maybe be using pass through fittings or using the rubber grommet location to pass the tubing through, cause the opening isn't that big when the plate is removed.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> There is a small plate that can be removed to fit larger radiators, but from the looks of his planning he maybe be using pass through fittings or using the *rubber grommet location to pass the tubing through*, cause the opening isn't that big when the plate is removed.


Ding ding ding we have a winner!


----------



## viperguy212

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ricinsing*
> 
> Finally finshed the build .. Mark II of Tempered Tantrum... going to build log on Pcpartpicker.com of the ordeal...still got to change cables due to one the tantrums this thing threw and there on the way...


Looks great man. Did you hammer out the "lips" on the radiator tray as well?


----------



## ricinsing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> Looks great man. Did you hammer out the "lips" on the radiator tray as well?


HI, no didnt need to in the end. I was going to as the top plug on the radiator was causing the radiator to bea bit firther away from fans and hence neeedinglonger mounting screws. In the end I just cot away a small section above each plug so the radator coudl sit flush against the bracket. If you were having space issues with your fans then taking out tos lips woud give you about a extra 1.5mm of clearance.


----------



## iammurphy

Here's my tempered glass evolv. I had an anthracite grey evolv atx and decided i wanted the galaxy silver tg. Just transferred everything over tonight !


----------



## ricinsing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> 
> Looks great. I really like the blue.
> 
> Here is mine with some natural lighting. I love the EKWB on the Asus mobo. Really ties everything up nice and tight


Nice.. I can see me puttign a 360 in top soon I think.. 340 was easier with the xflow but I like out it fills the top bit more with a 360


----------



## Toan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ricinsing*
> 
> Nice.. I can see me puttign a 360 in top soon I think.. 340 was easier with the xflow but I like out it fills the top bit more with a 360


Yea, it does look much better with a 360 up up. I almost went with another 280 up top but I had the 360 already.


----------



## sect

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iammurphy*
> 
> Here's my tempered glass evolv. I had an anthracite grey evolv atx and decided i wanted the galaxy silver tg. Just transferred everything over tonight !


nice, I have the antracite grey evolv too and really want the tempered glass version. It'd be nice if they sold the glass window separately hah


----------



## Sazexa

Hey guys. I'm thinking about switching back to ATX form factor from ITX, and this case has (specifically silver and tempered glass) is a real good potential. Phanteks states that the case has E-ATX support up to 264mm. I'd really like to be able to get or use the ASUS Rampave V or Rampage V Edition 10. ASUS says these boards are 272mm wide though.

Do you guys think I could squeeze the board in with that 8mm or no? Or better yet, is anyone using an ASUS X99 E-ATX board, and if so, can I see a photo?


----------



## Toan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys. I'm thinking about switching back to ATX form factor from ITX, and this case has (specifically silver and tempered glass) is a real good potential. Phanteks states that the case has E-ATX support up to 264mm. I'd really like to be able to get or use the ASUS Rampave V or Rampage V Edition 10. ASUS says these boards are 272mm wide though.
> 
> Do you guys think I could squeeze the board in with that 8mm or no? Or better yet, is anyone using an ASUS X99 E-ATX board, and if so, can I see a photo?


Don't quote me on this, but I think that when phanteks says it supports up to 264mm, I think it probably measures right up to the rubber grommets. So ASUS is 272mm, it will probably just cover the rubber grommets. Keep in mind that the panel curves right at the grommet so that mobo might not fit at all.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> Don't quote me on this, but I think that when phanteks says it supports up to 264mm, I think it probably measures right up to the rubber grommets. So ASUS is 272mm, it will probably just cover the rubber grommets. Keep in mind that the panel curves right at the grommet so that mobo might not fit at all.


Newegg has a standard return policy on the board. I might just but it and try it.


----------



## DopplerShift

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> Here is mine with some natural lighting. I love the EKWB on the Asus mobo. Really ties everything up nice and tight
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks really nice! are those rads EK 360 PE and 280 CE? if so, can you fit fans on the 360 without doing the the mod where the fans are on top? do they clear the edge of the 280?


----------



## viperguy212

I'm having a hard time figuring out a way to get the fans above a 360 without a lot of modification. I've hammered out the bevels so their flat and the fans fit fine. The issue now is the fan screw holes and the heavy ammount of restriction since the fans are positioned right up against the top of the case.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> I'm having a hard time figuring out a way to get the fans above a 360 without a lot of modification. I've hammered out the bevels so their flat and the fans fit fine. The issue now is the fan screw holes and the heavy ammount of restriction since the fans are positioned right up against the top of the case.


I believe solution is to drill holes (on the frame) for the screws. You could drill/cut vents in the top hood to lessen restriction. I emailed phanteks and they said they would send a new one for $35 +shipping (in case you mess up). I know there is a big club for going 360 in the top... but this is what it leads to. IMO Slim 240/280 in the top + fat 360 push/pull (EK XE 360... arguably the best 360mm rad) in the front should offer better cooling and require no modding. It might not look quite as good, but the cooling benefit should be worth it. I am pretty sure EK XE 360 front + SE 360 top is possible (with mounting mods and removing the far right push fan on the SE) but IMO the benefit for the trouble isn't worth it. You could also do 120/140mm back + 240/280mm top + 360mm front for effective max surface area.


----------



## eaglesfan398

How I set my custom loop. The tube out the middle is my drain port. Hopefully it should help anyone else trying to build a custom loop and are having trouble figuring out how to locate all their parts.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Samokleykin

Phanteks Evolv tempered glass is very beautiful the PC case.
But I can not buy it in Russia or Belarus. No sellers.


----------



## Samokleykin

.


----------



## porro

Hey guys,

I ordered the Tempered Glass version of this case.
My first plan was to put the XE360 from EK (60mm) in the front, but I really want my rad in the top.

What is the max thickness of the rad without interferance with the motherboard / RAM?
A 30mm rad seems so small.. Going to cool a 6700k + GTX 1070 with it, both overclocked.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Tsunkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ricinsing*
> 
> Finally finshed the build .. Mark II of Tempered Tantrum... going to build log on Pcpartpicker.com of the ordeal...still got to change cables due to one the tantrums this thing threw and there on the way...


hey I have the same pump from EKWB. I am wondering what bracket did you use to hold the pump in that position ?


----------



## krutoydiesel

Transferring my loop from my Define S to an Anthracite EVOLV ATX TG very soon! Will keep you posted.


----------



## kriz225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porro*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I ordered the Tempered Glass version of this case.
> My first plan was to put the XE360 from EK (60mm) in the front, but I really want my rad in the top.
> 
> What is the max thickness of the rad without interferance with the motherboard / RAM?
> A 30mm rad seems so small.. Going to cool a 6700k + GTX 1070 with it, both overclocked.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


If it helps you, this is what my build looks like, with a 30mm rad on top plus fans:



I personally wouldn't go any bigger, simply for looks/serviceability. That said, you can go thicker than that on a 120mm fan format because the mounting bracket pushes the rad towards the side panel, away from RAM and such. The case specs show the exact clearance.

You can also mod the case and not use the tray so you can hide the rad away some.


----------



## krutoydiesel

I finished the case swap. This is one good looking case.

Anyone having any issues with temps?

70 max temp on my 4790k
50 max temp on my 980ti


----------



## Toan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> I finished the case swap. This is one good looking case.
> 
> Anyone having any issues with temps?
> 
> 70 max temp on my 4790k
> 50 max temp on my 980ti


I get 60s max CPU and 50s max gpu. Case is a tad restrictive on airflow tbh.


----------



## paskowitz

See my reply in the other thread. But yeah, I would say only your CPU is hot.


----------



## springs113

Is that after a gaming session? Benchmarking? What?


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Is that after a gaming session? Benchmarking? What?


During gaming, to be more specific, on a 3440x1440 panel playing Fallout 4.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> During gaming, to be more specific, on a 3440x1440 panel playing Fallout 4.


i have been trying to gauge my temps but i kinda don't have an ideal setup going on. I have weak static pressure fans on decent rads (ek pe]


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> I get 60s max CPU and 50s max gpu. Case is a tad restrictive on airflow tbh.


What CPU do you have? I have the top resting on the mounts, swapped the fans around, and I'm still getting 70 degrees during high end gaming.


----------



## springs113

what fans are you all using?


----------



## Toan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> What CPU do you have? I have the top resting on the mounts, swapped the fans around, and I'm still getting 70 degrees during high end gaming.


6700k @ 4.6ghz 1.30v, could be my ambient. I tent to keep my room pretty cool all year round. I have a fan cube that ramps up to about 75% when it gets that high. I'm using ap60s as fans for my top 360 rad and ph-f140sp for my front 280. Both are on separate fan curves.


----------



## scracy

Hi Guys
Finally finished my Phanteks Evolve ATX TG build, really happy with the results overall. First time I have used PETG tubing not as hard as I thought it might be. Really nice case to build in from a water cooling point of view and from a cable management point of view.
System specs for those of you interested.
Asus Maximus VIII Formula
[email protected] (Silicon Lottery 4.9Ghz)
EVGA Founder Edition GTX-1070 x2 SLI
Corsair Dominator Platinum ROG Edition DDR4 @3333Mhz
Corsair AX860i PSU
Samsung 950 Pro x2 (Raid 0) (Boot Drive)
Samsung 850 Pro x4 (Raid 0) (Data)
EK-PE-360 Top Radiator
EK-PE-240 Front Radiator
EK-XRES 140 D5 PWM Pump/Res Combo
EK-Supremacy EVO CPU Block
EK-FC1070 GTX Water Blocks x2
EK-FC Terminal Dual Parallel
Corsair ML120 Pro LED x6


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Hi Guys
> Finally finished my Phanteks Evolve ATX TG build, really happy with the results overall. First time I have used PETG tubing not as hard as I thought it might be. Really nice case to build in from a water cooling point of view and from a cable management point of view.
> System specs for those of you interested.
> Asus Maximus VIII Formula
> [email protected] (Silicon Lottery 4.9Ghz)
> EVGA Founder Edition GTX-1070 x2 SLI
> Corsair Dominator Platinum ROG Edition DDR4 @3333Mhz
> Corsair AX860i PSU
> Samsung 950 Pro x2 (Raid 0) (Boot Drive)
> Samsung 850 Pro x4 (Raid 0) (Data)
> EK-PE-360 Top Radiator
> EK-PE-240 Front Radiator
> EK-XRES 140 D5 PWM Pump/Res Combo
> EK-Supremacy EVO CPU Block
> EK-FC1070 GTX Water Blocks x2
> EK-FC Terminal Dual Parallel
> Corsair ML120 Pro LED x6


Perfection! Seriously, awesome build. I like the choice of 2 1070s. Titan X performance for 2/3 the price.

What is that thing on top of the first GPU? Also, where are the Raid 0 950s?


----------



## scracy

Thanks








The thing above the top GPU is a Creative Soundblaster Z sound card, as I run 3 different sound devices. I made a back plate for it from an EK graphics backplate. The first Samsung 950 pro is behind the front cover on the Maximus VIII Formula and the second one is below the second GPU, I picked the Formula board because its one of the few that doesn't share bandwidth for the pcie x4 with the pcie x1 slots, here is some diskspeed bench marks:thumb
:


----------



## springs113

That looks great, I'm curious to see what are your temps like. We have similar setup as far as water cooling parts go.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> That looks great, I'm curious to see what are your temps like. We have similar setup as far as water cooling parts go.


Temps look pretty good 22 degrees C ambient AIDA 64 for 1 hour Intel Burn Test same ambient


----------



## springs113

I guess I got something wrong going on my end cause my temps are meh!!. I am in a room with ambient temp around 25c, and my pc temps are idling as i type this 47c on a non oc 5930k and my 2 gpus(290 yea i know are hot) sitting at 53c. This is the warmest any of my builds have ever been.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> I guess I got something wrong going on my end cause my temps are meh!!. I am in a room with ambient temp around 25c, and my pc temps are idling as i type this 47c on a non oc 5930k and my 2 gpus(290 yea i know are hot) sitting at 53c. This is the warmest any of my builds have ever been.


Yeah that does seem kind of warm, 5930K would run warmer though I would imagine as would your 290's. Prior to water cooling my 1070's they were idling at around 55c so they run quite warm relative to the 780Ti's I had before. Which rads are you running? Fans? Even 30 runs of IBT hottest core only reaches 71c


----------



## springs113

In my current setup I have an 2 EK PEs (360mm, 240mm) with some Corsair MLs in push on the 360 and push/pull on the 240 with phanteks ph120 as the push fans and the MLs as the pull. I had the same setup in a different case with some gtx 360s and one alphacool monsta 360mm rad. I know that is somewhat overkill but I still think my setup should be cooler than what it is.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Anyone try taking out the mesh on the top plate vents? Notice any difference at all on temps? Pictures please if you have them. Still not too happy with my temps, I'm gaming at 1440p Ultrawide on a 980ti 1473 mhz on max voltage-stock bios, and a 4790k at 4.5ghz at 1.234v. Getting 53C on the GPU and 73C on the CPU after an hour, max on both.

On previous case I had max of 45 on GPU and about 67 on hottest core on the CPU.


----------



## springs113

Would Valley or even considered a good stress test to check temperature under gamin? how long do you guys suggest?

I'm also considering to reapply my cpu block along with a different thermal paste. I used Gelid this time around and had used MX-4 before.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> Would Valley or even considered a good stress test to check temperature under gamin? how long do you guys suggest?
> 
> I'm also considering to reapply my cpu block along with a different thermal paste. I used Gelid this time around and had used MX-4 before.


Im running Gelid that was supplied with the EVO Supremacy and have found both Gelid and MX4 to be good thermal paste. Reapply thermal paste might help also my CPU has been delidded which does help temps quite alot, my temps were achieved with a CPU Vcore of 1.45V and an ambient of 18.5 C. Looping Valley for an hour would be a good stress test for the GPU'S but doesnt load the CPU very much, try Asus Realbench or Aida 64 to heavily load both CPU and GPU at the same time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Anyone try taking out the mesh on the top plate vents? Notice any difference at all on temps? Pictures please if you have them. Still not too happy with my temps, I'm gaming at 1440p Ultrawide on a 980ti 1473 mhz on max voltage-stock bios, and a 4790k at 4.5ghz at 1.234v. Getting 53C on the GPU and 73C on the CPU after an hour, max on both.
> 
> On previous case I had max of 45 on GPU and about 67 on hottest core on the CPU.


Still running mesh on the top and front of case I dont think removing the mesh will make much if any difference but worth a try to remove at least the front mesh.


----------



## shonik09

Just thought I'd add some pics of my build too







:




Specs:

Enthoo Evolv ATX TG Case
Asus Deluxe II X99
i7 6850k @ 4.5 (1.434v)
Titan XP
Trident Z 64GB RAM
Corsair RM1000i PSU
Hue+
512GB 950 Pro

Loop:
EK PETG 16/12 tubing
EK XE 360 front rad
Black Ice Nemesis GTS 240 top rad
EK-XRES-140
EK D5 PWM V2
EK Asus X99 monoblock
EK Titan XP full block + backplate

I did the top mod by cutting off the protruding edges on the rad bracket and underside of the top to all for hidden fans in pull config on the top rad. I also blocked off the third fan slot and extra screw holes. My temps are surprisingly solid, getting mid 40s to low 50s on CPU when gaming, and low 40s on GPU even with the OC.


----------



## atomicus

Any issues with the Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis rads in the Evolv ATX? I know they are a bit wider than most rads. I'm looking at 360 GTS top and 280 GTS in the front.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Any issues with the Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis rads in the Evolv ATX? I know they are a bit wider than most rads. I'm looking at 360 GTS top and 280 GTS in the front.


I had no trouble with my gts xflow nor gtx nemesis (both 360mm) in the front nor top.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> I had no trouble with my gts xflow nor gtx nemesis (both 360mm) in the front nor top.


Thansk. Any pics of your build?


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Thansk. Any pics of your build?


No i don't have any at all with the rads in there, but i can assure a nemesis gtx 360 (54mm thick) can fit you'll just be covering up the top portion of the motherboard and a little bit of the cpu block. It was simple for me as i used quick disconnects. I tried the ek 360 pe, gts 360 x flow, the gtx 360 up top. Anything thicker like the monsta rads or ek pe won't fit up top.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Any issues with the Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis rads in the Evolv ATX? I know they are a bit wider than most rads. I'm looking at 360 GTS top and 280 GTS in the front.


I have the opposite setup, 280 up top and the 360 in the front and it works perfectly.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> I have the opposite setup, 280 up top and the 360 in the front and it works perfectly.


Cool thanks, going for the same rads, so that's good to know. Looks like it would take x2 360s also, although ports would have to be on left at top it seems. You have any more pics, non-fisheye lol?


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Cool thanks, going for the same rads, so that's good to know. Looks like it would take x2 360s also, although ports would have to be on left at top it seems. You have any more pics, non-fisheye lol?


try this


----------



## atomicus

Does anyone have any pics of x2 HW Black Ice Nemesis 360 GTS rads in the Evolv ATX? On further thought, due to the fans I want to use, I think this is a the preferable option for me, but I cannot see photo confirmation that it can actually be done, and I don't know if the XFlow version would be the better choice? The HW Labs rads are a bit wider than others also.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Does anyone have any pics of x2 HW Black Ice Nemesis 360 GTS rads in the Evolv ATX? On further thought, due to the fans I want to use, I think this is a the preferable option for me, but I cannot see photo confirmation that it can actually be done, and I don't know if the XFlow version would be the better choice? The HW Labs rads are a bit wider than others also.


The problem with black ice rads being too thick is the 280mm version. As far as using the x flow, it would have to be up top because it has the extended ends due to the polar fittings. I tried the ek pe and xflow, didn't work. I suspect it can be done it is a little bit of a hassle. 2 super thin 360mm may work, but a 280mm and 360mm can provide the same cooling benefits. Why out yourself through all that for little to no benefit?


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> The problem with black ice rads being too thick is the 280mm version. As far as using the x flow, it would have to be up top because it has the extended ends due to the polar fittings. I tried the ek pe and xflow, didn't work. I suspect it can be done it is a little bit of a hassle. 2 super thin 360mm may work, but a 280mm and 360mm can provide the same cooling benefits. Why out yourself through all that for little to no benefit?


Yes, I do agree... the only reason I am leaning away from the 280 is due to this being an all white build, the plan is to use the Vardar 120mm all white fans on the 360, but annoyingly EK don't make an all white version of their 140mm fan. Stupid reason I know lol!


----------



## springs113

Its either bitfinex or custom painting.


----------



## AccountIsTaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> 6700k @ 4.6ghz 1.30v, could be my ambient. I tent to keep my room pretty cool all year round. I have a fan cube that ramps up to about 75% when it gets that high. I'm using ap60s as fans for my top 360 rad and ph-f140sp for my front 280. Both are on separate fan curves.


Is it possible to rotate the front 280mm radiator so that the fittings are at the bottom and move the radiator up so that it's touching the top radiator? I'm thinking of the same but having the rads appear to be a single wall framing the components.


----------



## atomicus

OK, slight change of plan with my build... I will populating the bottom bays at the front with x2 3.5" drives, so that seems to rule out a 360. Will a 280 still fit there, with one also up top?

Also, I am looking for recommendations for the best res/pump combo that is clean and sleek to mount in this space up front, either to the fans/rad with brackets or to the back of the case. I am not crazy about the EK X-Res Revo D5 due it's quite chunky appearance, so I'm trying to find a good alternative, but still a D5 pump if possible.


----------



## Aggrotech

Can someone halp me confirm this please as ive seen a number of posts/threads with conflicting information.

Ive got the x52 and ofc the instructions simply say to install it into the cpu header, however i wanted to take advantage of the phanteks fan controller on the back of the case and get the cleanest look possible on the mobo side.. Would it hurt if i plugged everything into the fan controller on the back (including pump header), then used the 1 header from the fancontroller and plugged it into the cpu header on the mobo? Will i have any pump rpm issues? or will it run @ 100% and still allow me to control all the fan curves via bios? Ive never had an AIO and ive never messed with fan controllers, so finding conflicting information here & there isnt helping at all.


----------



## scracy

You can plug all your fans and pump into the Phanteks fan controller. Make sure that the white fan connector on the controller only powers 1 fan directly and is not connected via a fan spliter as the controller needs this one particular fan header for the PWM signal. Plug the fan controller into the CPU mother board fan header if you want fan speed to change with CPU temperature. If the pump on the X52 is of the PWM variety its PWM signal will come from the Phanteks controller so it will vary in speed/rate according to PWM signal same as your fans. If you hook up all the fans and pump to Phanteks controller they all get the same PWM signal so you wont be able to set each fan speed individually. The SATA power plug connected to the Phanteks controller is simply for power, make sure it is connected as well. Hope that clears things up


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aggrotech*
> 
> Can someone halp me confirm this please as ive seen a number of posts/threads with conflicting information.
> 
> Ive got the x52 and ofc the instructions simply say to install it into the cpu header, however i wanted to take advantage of the phanteks fan controller on the back of the case and get the cleanest look possible on the mobo side.. Would it hurt if i plugged everything into the fan controller on the back (including pump header), then used the 1 header from the fancontroller and plugged it into the cpu header on the mobo? Will i have any pump rpm issues? or will it run @ 100% and still allow me to control all the fan curves via bios? Ive never had an AIO and ive never messed with fan controllers, so finding conflicting information here & there isnt helping at all.


Does the X52 have a SATA connector for power? The manual shows one, but NZXT manuals aren't always the most reliable. This makes a huge difference in your options.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> You can plug all your fans and pump into the Phanteks fan controller. Make sure that the white fan connector on the controller only powers 1 fan directly and is not connected via a fan spliter as the controller needs this one particular fan header for the PWM signal. Plug the fan controller into the CPU mother board fan header if you want fan speed to change with CPU temperature. If the pump on the X52 is of the PWM variety its PWM signal will come from the Phanteks controller so it will vary in speed/rate according to PWM signal same as your fans. If you hook up all the fans and pump to Phanteks controller they all get the same PWM signal so you wont be able to set each fan speed individually. The SATA power plug connected to the Phanteks controller is simply for power, make sure it is connected as well. Hope that clears things up


Everything you have said above is entirely wrong. The Phanteks hub does not output a PWM signal, and is incapable of controlling a PWM pump. In fact, trying to do this will damage most PWM pumps since the hub outputs varying voltage and PWM pumps are designed to have a constant 12V supply. While the Asetek CLC pump in question is not PWM, it _is_ designed to work with a constant 12V input, with speed being varied by liquid temp.

The reason a splitter can not be used on CH1 has nothing to do with a PWM signal. CH1 is used to report speeds back to the MB on the speed sensor. A 3-pin splitter would tie the speed sensors of two fans together and disable speed sensing by the hub. That is the reason that a splitter is not supposed to be used on CH1.

You also seem to be under the impression that the Phanteks hub outputs a PWM signal. It does not. It uses a PWM signal as input, and then outputs voltage regulated control based on the PWM input.


----------



## doyll

What ciarlatano said.

Here is Phanteks PWM Fan Hub detailed testing and data


----------



## Aggrotech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Does the X52 have a SATA connector for power? The manual shows one, but NZXT manuals aren't always the most reliable. This makes a huge difference in your options.
> Everything you have said above is entirely wrong. The Phanteks hub does not output a PWM signal, and is incapable of controlling a PWM pump. In fact, trying to do this will damage most PWM pumps since the hub outputs varying voltage and PWM pumps are designed to have a constant 12V supply. While the Asetek CLC pump in question is not PWM, it _is_ designed to work with a constant 12V input, with speed being varied by liquid temp.


Yes it uses sata power and connects to mobo with usb. All i want, if possible. is to connect everything in the back. Im just finding conflicting information everywhere.
im goin off the phanteks manual aswell here http://www.phanteks.com/assets/manuals/PH-ES515E_Western.pdf #16 but that isnt helping all that much.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Does the X52 have a SATA connector for power? The manual shows one, but NZXT manuals aren't always the most reliable. This makes a huge difference in your options.
> Everything you have said above is entirely wrong. The Phanteks hub does not output a PWM signal, and is incapable of controlling a PWM pump. In fact, trying to do this will damage most PWM pumps since the hub outputs varying voltage and PWM pumps are designed to have a constant 12V supply. While the Asetek CLC pump in question is not PWM, it _is_ designed to work with a constant 12V input, with speed being varied by liquid temp.
> 
> The reason a splitter can not be used on CH1 has nothing to do with a PWM signal. CH1 is used to report speeds back to the MB on the speed sensor. A 3-pin splitter would tie the speed sensors of two fans together and disable speed sensing by the hub. That is the reason that a splitter is not supposed to be used on CH1.
> 
> You also seem to be under the impression that the Phanteks hub outputs a PWM signal. It does not. It uses a PWM signal as input, and then outputs voltage regulated control based on the PWM input.


My bad I was under the impression that the Phanteks hub was PWM at least according to their literature. I have removed the hub from my system completely and connected the 3 fans I had on there to separate mobo fan headers, AIDA 64 now reports the correct RPM for each fan and they don't fluctuate/surge in speed as they did before +1 rep:thumb:


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> My bad I was under the impression that the Phanteks hub was PWM at least according to their literature. I have removed the hub from my system completely and connected the 3 fans I had on there to separate mobo fan headers, AIDA 64 now reports the correct RPM for each fan and they don't fluctuate/surge in speed as they did before +1 rep:thumb:


Phanteks did a very bad job of naming their PWM controlled variable voltage fan hub, but the installation and other realated literature makes it clear how it actually works..


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Phanteks did a very bad job of naming their PWM controlled variable voltage fan hub, but the installation and other realated literature makes it clear how it actually works..


I realize that now after it was pointed out to me, however it doesnt dim my led fans so assumed incorrectly that it was PWM. Anyway I have ditched it now and things seem to run much better


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> I realize that now after it was pointed out to me, however it doesnt dim my led fans so assumed incorrectly that it was PWM. Anyway I have ditched it now and things seem to run much better


Making _ass_umptions is often dangerous.









Phanteks hubs work best with 3-8 fans (to be precise between 0.5 amp and 1.5amp load) and using all the same fans.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/15840_20#post_25660095


----------



## SirWaWa

so I was watching a review of this and the evolv's top power button does not light up but the glass edition does (it appeared like that anyway)

can someone confirm this?

glass edition lit up power led or does a newer revised evolv do too?


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirWaWa*
> 
> so I was watching a review of this and the evolv's top power button does not light up but the glass edition does (it appeared like that anyway)
> 
> can someone confirm this?
> 
> glass edition lit up power led or does a newer revised evolv do too?


Evolve ATX tempered glass edition power button does light up and colour can also be selected


----------



## s0n1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Hi Guys
> Finally finished my Phanteks Evolve ATX TG build, really happy with the results overall. First time I have used PETG tubing not as hard as I thought it might be. Really nice case to build in from a water cooling point of view and from a cable management point of view.
> System specs for those of you interested.
> Asus Maximus VIII Formula
> [email protected] (Silicon Lottery 4.9Ghz)
> EVGA Founder Edition GTX-1070 x2 SLI
> Corsair Dominator Platinum ROG Edition DDR4 @3333Mhz
> Corsair AX860i PSU
> Samsung 950 Pro x2 (Raid 0) (Boot Drive)
> Samsung 850 Pro x4 (Raid 0) (Data)
> EK-PE-360 Top Radiator
> EK-PE-240 Front Radiator
> EK-XRES 140 D5 PWM Pump/Res Combo
> EK-Supremacy EVO CPU Block
> EK-FC1070 GTX Water Blocks x2
> EK-FC Terminal Dual Parallel
> Corsair ML120 Pro LED x6


Love the build! How did you fit the PE-240 under? Did you do the top mod or cut into the bottom plate?


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s0n1x*
> 
> Love the build! How did you fit the PE-240 under? Did you do the top mod or cut into the bottom plate?


Thanks, I notched around the bottom plate to fit the 240 only sits about 12mm below the bottom plate.


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Thanks, I notched around the bottom plate to fit the 240 only sits about 12mm below the bottom plate.


Love the Build man !!
I'm about to rebuild my PC in the same case and do a similar water cooling setup.
What size piping did you use?


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> Love the Build man !!
> I'm about to rebuild my PC in the same case and do a similar water cooling setup.
> What size piping did you use?


I used 12mm PETG


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> I used 12mm PETG


Ah nice. How did you go trying to bend it (was it hard?). Did you have all the tools or did you do it by eye?
I just transferred all my HW over to the case tonight. Water cooling setup will be done this weekend!
I'm going to go with a 240 up top and 240 in the front.

Parts:
- EK-XRES 140 DDC 3.2 PWM Elite Pump/Reservoir Combo
- EK CoolStream PE 240 Dual Radiator - X2


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> Ah nice. How did you go trying to bend it (was it hard?). Did you have all the tools or did you do it by eye?
> I just transferred all my HW over to the case tonight. Water cooling setup will be done this weekend!
> I'm going to go with a 240 up top and 240 in the front.
> 
> Parts:
> - EK-XRES 140 DDC 3.2 PWM Elite Pump/Reservoir Combo
> - EK CoolStream PE 240 Dual Radiator - X2


Bending PETG was really easy (im an electrician by trade so im quite used to bending conduits which is similar) i purchased some monsoon mandrels from ebay which made it even easier. The only differcult thing to do is bends that are near other bends like the one i have coming out of the PE360 going to the VRM water block. Best advice I can give is watch a guy on youtube called Jazstwocents he has a lot of tips and pointers when it comes to water cooling. Any reason why 2x PE240? post some pics when you're done


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Bending PETG was really easy (im an electrician by trade so im quite used to bending conduits which is similar) i purchased some monsoon mandrels from ebay which made it even easier. The only differcult thing to do is bends that are near other bends like the one i have coming out of the PE360 going to the VRM water block. Best advice I can give is watch a guy on youtube called Jazstwocents he has a lot of tips and pointers when it comes to water cooling. Any reason why 2x PE240? post some pics when you're done


Good to know. I'll have a watch of his videos before I start! I have messaged an eBay seller to see if i can pick some pipe mandrels up tomorrow before i start on sat. If not then i will have to do it by eye. I was going to go 2x 280 Rads but then i realised that i will need to remove the base plate in the front which i don't want to do (pump will be mounted to it). I didn't go with a 360 up top because it seem that it will be a very tight fit and probably wont need that much cooling. I'm only cooling my CPU and a R9 290.

Here's a picture of how it is now till saturday!


----------



## scracy

The ebay seller wouldnt be selling barrow branded mandrels by any chance? PE 360 fits really easy up top in the Evolve case but not a huge difference in cooling capacity from a 280mm. If you can try to fit as much radiator surface area as you can in case later you might want to run crossfire, just a thought.


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> The ebay seller wouldnt be selling barrow branded mandrels by any chance? PE 360 fits really easy up top in the Evolve case but not a huge difference in cooling capacity from a 280mm. If you can try to fit as much radiator surface area as you can in case later you might want to run crossfire, just a thought.


Yep thats the ones hahaha. Will changing the top rad to a 360 really change the cooling that much? I thought running 2x 240s will be enough for 2 cards and CPU?


----------



## paskowitz

IMO 280 slim up top and 360 fat up front should be the best performance combo. I would recommend Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS top and GTX front/push or GTR if you have room for push pull in the front.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> IMO 280 slim up top and 360 fat up front should be the best performance combo. I would recommend Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS top and GTX front/push or GTR if you have room for push pull in the front.


That would be a nice combo, unfortunately in Australia water cooling gear is not as readily available as it is in America we really only have 1 or 2 retail suppliers and they generally only stock EK parts.


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> That would be a nice combo, unfortunately in Australia water cooling gear is not as readily available as it is in America we really only have 1 or 2 retail suppliers and they generally only stock EK parts.


Yep Australia is horrible for water cooling parts. Do you think 2x 240 is enough for 2 cards and a cpu? For my current setup its good but for possible future upgrades...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> IMO 280 slim up top and 360 fat up front should be the best performance combo. I would recommend Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS top and GTX front/push or GTR if you have room for push pull in the front.


I want to leave the base plate in and i have 2 hdd underneath so i cant have a 280/360 in the front. So i need a 240 front and could possibly put a 360 up top but didnt think i would need it.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> Yep thats the ones hahaha. Will changing the top rad to a 360 really change the cooling that much? I thought running 2x 240s will be enough for 2 cards and CPU?


2x240mm would be fine to cool what you are looking for. Whilst the EK SE range of radiators are not the best perhaps a SE240 in the front and a SE360 or PE360 up the top might be an idea, that way you wont have to cut the removable bottom panel as the front radiator will fit just behind the front fan filter. Whilst thicker radiators do provide better cooling more surface area has more of an impact.


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> 2x240mm would be fine to cool what you are looking for. Whilst the EK SE range of radiators are not the best perhaps a SE240 in the front and a SE360 or PE360 up the top might be an idea, that way you wont have to cut the removable bottom panel as the front radiator will fit just behind the front fan filter. Whilst thicker radiators do provide better cooling more surface area has more of an impact.


Hmm okay. Will have a think before I order tomorrow morning. What do you think of your fans btw. Are they quiet ? And how do they go performance wise. I'm thinking about getting the Thermaltake Riiing Static Pressure 120mm fans.


----------



## doyll

I agree with others .

I'm not current on which radiators are best cooling for price, but I will say more radiator surface area usually gives more cooling at lower fan speed / noise levels.
2x 240mm radiators is adequate, but probably won't give you much surplus cooling ability, and if you have hot dry weather it might only be marginally enough.
Using a 360mm and a 240mm radiators of same quality as 2x 240mm radiators is 25% more cooling area (5x 120mm versus 4x 120mm .. and that translate into about 25% more cooling potential. It's better to have more than you need than to not have enough.









If you give us links to your online sources I'm sure others know which radiators are good and can give good suggestions as to which ones to get.


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I agree with others .
> 
> I'm not current on which radiators are best cooling for price, but I will say more radiator surface area usually gives more cooling at lower fan speed / noise levels.
> 2x 240mm radiators is adequate, but probably won't give you much surplus cooling ability, and if you have hot dry weather it might only be marginally enough.
> Using a 360mm and a 240mm radiators of same quality as 2x 240mm radiators is 25% more cooling area (5x 120mm versus 4x 120mm .. and that translate into about 25% more cooling potential. It's better to have more than you need than to not have enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you give us links to your online sources I'm sure others know which radiators are good and can give good suggestions as to which ones to get.


That's a good point. Thanks. I can pretty much only get EK watercooling hardware. So it may best to run a SE240 and a SE 360? That way there will still be heaps of room rather than using the PE rads


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> That's a good point. Thanks. I can pretty much only get EK watercooling hardware. So it may best to run a SE240 and a SE 360? That way there will still be heaps of room rather than using the PE rads


I think those 2 rads will be your best bet, have a look at dino pc on youtube they use both of those 2 rads in a evolve atx and it seems to work quite well. Fans I have work well and will go down to as low as 400rpm so they are very quiet but expensive to be honest maybe give the EK Vardar fans a go? Static pressure fans are what you want to use but a number of tests that i have seen show that air flow fans can work well too. Given the amount of surface area the two rads you just mentioned and given what you are trying to cool you should have a fairly quiet system coming from an all in one.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> That would be a nice combo, unfortunately in Australia water cooling gear is not as readily available as it is in America we really only have 1 or 2 retail suppliers and they generally only stock EK parts.


That is really strange as HWL is right next door in the Philippines.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> That is really strange as HWL is right next door in the Philippines.


We can order water cooling stuff from other countries no problem but anything over $1000AU attracts heavy import duties. Our two local water cooling suppliers are PcCasegear and PLE computers none of our other pc parts retailers carry any sort of water cooling gear at all unfortunatly, so unless you are willing to wait an extended period of time then there is no choice, a few other stores around Australia have 1 or 2 items but not much of a range. We can get some other brands of water cooling stuff but we just dont get the range of brands and products that much larger markets like the US have. We also pay what we call the Australia tax because everything here is expensive i will give you an example to buy a gtx 1070 in Australia it costs roughly $700AU a gtx 1080 $1200 but buying 2 gtx1070 from amazon in the US cost me $1200AU including shipping hence why I went that way (ordered them separately to avoid import tax) It would be nice if we could just go to our local microcenter lol.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> We can order water cooling stuff from other countries no problem but anything over $1000AU attracts heavy import duties. Our two local water cooling suppliers are PcCasegear and PLE computers none of our other pc parts retailers carry any sort of water cooling gear at all unfortunatly, so unless you are willing to wait an extended period of time then there is no choice, a few other stores around Australia have 1 or 2 items but not much of a range. We can get some other brands of water cooling stuff but we just dont get the range of brands and products that much larger markets like the US have. We also pay what we call the Australia tax because everything here is expensive i will give you an example to buy a gtx 1070 in Australia it costs roughly $700AU a gtx 1080 $1200 but buying 2 gtx1070 from amazon in the US cost me $1200AU including shipping hence why I went that way (ordered them separately to avoid import tax) It would be nice if we could just go to our local microcenter lol.


I am so sorry. Man, that is rough.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I am so sorry. Man, that is rough.


Hey i agree with what your saying and look EK SE rads arent the best but given availability and the fact he doesnt want to cut the removable plate at the front it doesn't leave us Aussies a whole lot of options. In many ways Americans are so lucky when it comes to parts choice...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Hey i agree with what your saying and look *EK SE rads arent the best* but given availability and the fact he doesnt want to cut the removable plate at the front it doesn't leave us Aussies a whole lot of options. In many ways Americans are so lucky when it comes to parts choice...


No....but they may literally be the _worst_ performing rads currently on the market. Really? No other options? Can't get PE?


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No....but they may literally be the _worst_ performing rads currently on the market. Really? No other options? Can't get PE?


I know they arent the greatest rad as I previously stated. Yes we can get PE240 and PE360 in Australia but Brando465 didn't want to cut the bottom plate at the front to accommodate the PE240. We can get other brands but not as readily available off the shelf as EK is.I used PE rads in mine and its not much of a mod to cut the plate.....but...


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> I know they arent the greatest rad as I previously stated. Yes we can get PE240 and PE360 in Australia but Brando465 didn't want to cut the bottom plate at the front to accommodate the PE240. We can get other brands but not as readily available off the shelf as EK is.I used PE rads in mine and its not much of a mod to cut the plate.....but...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No....but they may literally be the _worst_ performing rads currently on the market. Really? No other options? Can't get PE?


I've decided with a PE240 in the front and a SE360 in the top. The PE240 should fit in fine shouldn't it ?
I was under the impression that the PE280 won't fit?


----------



## paskowitz

I was going to say, the PE 240 should fit in the front.


----------



## atomicus

I have the XSPC EX280 in the front of my Evolv, and it JUST fits... literally less than 1mm clearance either side (going through the gap of the PSU shroud area). It's the narrowest rad I could find at 143mm, I don't think the EK CE 280 would fit given it's 145mm, but it might just scrape in. Obviously no issue with narrower 240 rads.


----------



## scracy

IF you are willing to cut the front lower panel the PE240 will fit the front with a PE360 up top, this will give you very good cooling capacity and is a better option than using SE radiators, honestly cutting the lower panel to fit the PE240 is really easy







as you can see from mine


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> IF you are willing to cut the front lower panel the PE240 will fit the front with a PE360 up top, this will give you very good cooling capacity and is a better option than using SE radiators, honestly cutting the lower panel to fit the PE240 is really easy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as you can see from mine


I've gone with the PE240 in the front and the SE360 up top. I have 2 hdds in the front so I can't cut the lower panel.
I'll take some photos of what I have bought and the process of it tomorrow.
Thanks heaps for the help guys !
Scracy send some more close ups of your build man. I'd love to see how you did everything!


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> I've gone with the PE240 in the front and the SE360 up top. I have 2 hdds in the front so I can't cut the lower panel.
> I'll take some photos of what I have bought and the process of it tomorrow.
> Thanks heaps for the help guys !
> Scracy send some more close ups of your build man. I'd love to see how you did everything!


No worries P.M me with your email and I will send you some


----------



## doyll

@scracy could you post them here so we can all see your good work? Always nice to see other builds.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @scracy could you post them here so we can all see your good work? Always nice to see other builds.


Don't know about "good" work as it is my first attempt at hardline tubing...but as requested:thumb: Specs in signature below


----------



## doyll

Thanks scracy[/@. ] You did a very nice job of the tubing. I was an electrician for many years and know how hard it is to figure the offsets so bends end up where we want them with parallel lines, and you got them near perfect. Your tubing lines are parallel in perpendicular and horizontal planes with only the bends that are extremely close to each other maybe not being quite perfect .. and those are extremely hard to get perfect .. or see the perfection in photos. I haven't done any water cooling in years. My last H2O build was about 10 years ago with rigid copper tubing. Now I'm all air cooled. Top tier air does a very good job on everything I do and is so much lower cost .. and so much easier to maintain.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks scracy[/@. ] You did a very nice job of the tubing. *I was an electrician for many years and know how hard it is to figure the offsets so bends end up where we want them with parallel lines, and you got them near perfect.* Your tubing lines are parallel in perpendicular and horizontal planes with only the bends that are extremely close to each other maybe not being quite perfect .. and those are extremely hard to get perfect .. or see the perfection in photos. I haven't done any water cooling in years. My last H2O build was about 10 years ago with rigid copper tubing. Now I'm all air cooled. Top tier air does a very good job on everything I do and is so much lower cost .. and so much easier to maintain.


As an electrician myself, that's what's stopping me from doing hardline. I'm a perfectionist, and rarely have the motivation after the work day to do more piping lol


----------



## Brando465

Thanks Scracy !! Looks good man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> As an electrician myself, that's what's stopping me from doing hardline. I'm a perfectionist, and rarely have the motivation after the work day to do more piping lol


I was in the same boat for a long time but have finally bitten the bullet this week. Will be doing my build tomorrow! So excited although its pretty expensive - Heres to a late xmas present to myself!


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> As an electrician myself, that's what's stopping me from doing hardline. I'm a perfectionist, and rarely have the motivation after the work day to do more piping lol


Funny everybody loves a Sparky lol. I know what mean doyll and Sazexa about being a perfectionist I am really bad when it comes to OCD drives the mrs crazy, some my bends in the photo's do look a bit crooked or not quite at the right angle but I think its an illusion created by the camera as in the flesh so to speak the bends look and measure right. Just saw a snef build on one the other threads, man his work is incredible


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Funny everybody loves a Sparky lol. I know what mean doyll and Sazexa about being a perfectionist I am really bad when it comes to OCD drives the mrs crazy, some my bends in the photo's do look a bit crooked or not quite at the right angle but I think its an illusion created by the camera as in the flesh so to speak the bends look and measure right. Just saw a snef build on one the other threads, man his work is incredible


Those who haven't bent don't realize how hard it is to do. I suspect working heated plastic is easier then rigid conduit, but stringing 2 or 3 bend into one piece is not easy .. and even more difficult when there are other pipes nearby that need to match.


----------



## nycgtr

Has anyone fit a 250ml res in this case?


----------



## Toan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Has anyone fit a 250ml res in this case?


Edit: read your comment wrong


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> Edit: read your comment wrong


I have that res combo, that looks to be 140ml. 250ml is much larger.


----------



## Brando465

Hey guys,

Late response but the build has taken longer than anticipated!

About 2 months ago I decided to make the jump from air cooling with a H60i to water cooling. After much procrastination I finally did some research on new cases and water cooling setups. It didn't take long to end up at the Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass. I then spent 2 weeks looking into builds people had done in them (which took me to here). Some final last minute changes were made with the help to some of the fellow members here.
I made 3 trips to my local PC store in a week to get the parts. Originally I thought it would have only taken a few days to build but I was wrong. It has ended up being a week and a half (tear down to all testing complete).

I went with a PE 240 in the front and a SE360 in the top (doing the fans in the roof mod). I spent a few hours with a dremel cutting out the channels from the top of the case and the rad bracket. After the multiple test fits the fans were able to fit. From there I started to re-assemble the case and start putting the components in. Once all the parts were in it was time to test fit and bending of pipes. That was done over a few nights after work. Finally the system was flushed and filled. First shot... NO LEAKS!









With the first stress test and the temps were horrible (almost 80 C). I spent the next 4 nights playing around with fans/speeds/and the case. I worked out that the case was not very free flowing. With the top and front panel off the temps dropped by 20 C. The solution ended up being turning the fans up a little more and sealing the top off with tin foil (something I saw on here). The temps became acceptable (there must have been a loop of hot air coming back down). So the other night I pulled the plastic off the glass and sat back and enjoyed the amazing look of a custom hard line water cooled PC with a glass panel.

PC Specs:
- i5 2500K (OC to 4.2ghz)
- 16GB RAM
- Gigabyte GA-Z68-UD3P-B3
- XFX Radeon R9 290
- Samsung 128GB SSD
- 2 x HDD (1TB & 2TB)
- Seasonic 750W

Water Cooling:
- EK-XRES 140 DDC 3.2 PWM Elite Pump/Reservoir Combo
- EK Supremacy EVO CPU Waterblock (Acetal/Nickel)
- EK CoolStream PE 240 Dual Radiator
- EK CoolStream SE 360 Slim Triple Radiator
- EK 12mm Fittings (Black)
- EK R9 290X Water Block (Acetal/Nickel)
- Thermaltake Riing 12 High Static Pressure 120mm

Photos:


----------



## b0gd4n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toan*
> 
> Does anyone know if I can fit 2 EK XE 360mm in this case? I've searched online everywhere and I can't seem to find the answer. The closest picture I can find that MIGHT answer my question is posted below.
> 
> I want to go with the same setup as pictured, EK XE 360mm up top with AP60s in push and an EK XE 360mm up front with AP60s in push behind the front cover. As far as I can see from the pics the front radiator does go down into the basement of the case. Maybe I have to go with EK's slimmer 360mm radiator up top to be able to fit the 360mm XE in the front?


Hey there.

I'm the guy with the build pictured there (here are a few more pics of the build


http://imgur.com/aL9t2


Not sure if you got you're answer, as I see this thread got quite big - but I was wondering the same thing before starting the build.
I think I found someone that did manage to get 2 360s in there, but he had to mod the case somehow.

I decided to stick with 1 360 (a slim SE version, as there's not much top clearance) and a fatter 280 in the front. The front rad goes into the basement, but really don't see how you can fit a 360 there, with a 360 on top as well.


----------



## doyll

When using fans / radiator in top of Evolv all opening between motherboard compartment and top must be blocked to stop the air going through fans / radiator from circling back into motherboard compartment.

Vent area of Evolv ATX can be almost tripled by simply removing 4 screws, popping top off and setting it back on.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13240_20#post_25198233

Details of where screws are and blocking openings in radiator / fan mounting tray.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13240_20#post_25198233


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> When using fans / radiator in top of Evolv all opening between motherboard compartment and top must be blocked to stop the air going through fans / radiator from circling back into motherboard compartment.
> 
> Vent area of Evolv ATX can be almost tripled by simply removing 4 screws, popping top off and setting it back on.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13240_20#post_25198233
> 
> Details of where screws are and blocking openings in radiator / fan mounting tray.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13240_20#post_25198233


Black aluminum foil tape is wonderful for sealing this case. What are your water temps under load?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0gd4n*
> 
> Hey there.
> 
> I'm the guy with the build pictured there (here are a few more pics of the build
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/aL9t2
> 
> 
> Not sure if you got you're answer, as I see this thread got quite big - but I was wondering the same thing before starting the build.
> I think I found someone that did manage to get 2 360s in there, but he had to mod the case somehow.
> 
> I decided to stick with 1 360 (a slim SE version, as there's not much top clearance) and a fatter 280 in the front. The front rad goes into the basement, but really don't see how you can fit a 360 there, with a 360 on top as well.


I saw your build on PC Wars and it inspired me to get an Evolv ATX and go watercooling. My build evolved into something original but the goal was for it to look like yours but red and black.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Black aluminum foil tape is wonderful for sealing this case. What are your water temps under load?
> .


Vinyl tape of match or complementary color works well too
Anything works as long as all the openings are blocked off does the job.
I'm an air-head now, except for a be quiet! Silent Loop 280mm on my Luxe.








Only reason I even tried it was I got it for a very good price, so if I hadn't liked it I could have sold for what I had into it. I've tried a few other AIO/CLC coolers .. all were CLC and I couldn't get them out of my house fast enough. But the Silent Loop 280 is nice and quiet. I just wish it would support a GPU waterblock. But I don't know if it's pump has enough power to push coolant through a full cover water block.


----------



## Blackops_2

Tag.

So what if you remove the PSU cover entirely? Could you not fit a 360 there? I guess it would easily clear up space for a 280 or 240.

Currently i'm planning on building new this summer when Vega releases. I'd like to at least have 120x6 or more incase i want to through another GPU in the build down the road.

Is there anyway to move the top rad over some to clear a 120 on the exhaust?


----------



## tucuman

Hi, everyone. This is my first-time water cooling so I bought the EK Extreme 360 kit. I'm planning to install the radiator in the front but I'm not sure where to put the pump. Do you guys have any recommendation on what is the best way to do my loop? I wanted the pump at the button compartment.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tucuman*
> 
> Hi, everyone. This is my first-time water cooling so I bought the EK Extreme 360 kit. I'm planning to install the radiator in the front but I'm not sure where to put the pump. Do you guys have any recommendation on what is the best way to do my loop? I wanted the pump at the button compartment.


Well, you could mount it in the bottom chamber DIY, or get an EK top, attached it to the res and then mount the res to the radiator via a mounting bracket. The latter is what most people do.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tucuman*
> 
> Hi, everyone. This is my first-time water cooling so I bought the EK Extreme 360 kit. I'm planning to install the radiator in the front but I'm not sure where to put the pump. Do you guys have any recommendation on what is the best way to do my loop? I wanted the pump at the button compartment.


Just drill some holes in the bottom and mount it. You may need to mount the pump sideways because the inlet tube goes straight up.


----------



## MoDeNa

Hi all,

Surfing on the net searching top mods for the Phanteks Enthoo EvolV ATX Tempered Glass case to improve my rig temperartures finally I decided to go one step further and design mine, as many of you guys did before.

Using the same config, of course, I have to say that the gain is much noticiable, specially with configs with AIO kits or radiators in top, with a decrease of around 12º - 15º Celsius in my processor temperatures, and an overall improvement to the other components.

I would like to recommend Phanteks that they could offer as an accesory a similar top panel, in order to satisfy this case customers and potential ones, because, actually, in my opinion, this is the best good looking case in the market.

My rig specs:

i7 5820K @ 4,0 GHz
Corsair H110 GTX
Asus X99A - USB 3.1
16 GB RAM DDR4 Kingston Hyper X 2.667 MHz
SLI Geforce GTX 1070 Founders Edition
Samsung SSD 850 EVO 500GB
2 x Western Digital Red Nas 2 TB
Seasonic Platinum 1200w

These are the pictures of the build and the mod:


















































































Kind regards,


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Clean look and nice photography. What are your temps?


----------



## MoDeNa

Thanks man. Before the mod, highest processor core temps went up to 67ºC - 69ºC. After mod the highest core hits maximun temp at 53ºC - 54ºC


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoDeNa*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Surfing on the net searching top mods for the Phanteks Enthoo EvolV ATX Tempered Glass case to improve my rig temperartures finally I decided to go one step further and design mine, as many of you guys did before.
> 
> Using the same config, of course, I have to say that the gain is much noticiable, specially with configs with AIO kits or radiators in top, with a decrease of around 12º - 15º Celsius in my processor temperatures, and an overall improvement to the other components.
> 
> I would like to recommend Phanteks that they could offer as an accesory a similar top panel, in order to satisfy this case customers and potential ones, because, actually, in my opinion, this is the best good looking case in the market.
> 
> My rig specs:
> 
> i7 5820K @ 4,0 GHz
> Corsair H110 GTX
> Asus X99A - USB 3.1
> 16 GB RAM DDR4 Kingston Hyper X 2.667 MHz
> SLI Geforce GTX 1070 Founders Edition
> Samsung SSD 850 EVO 500GB
> 2 x Western Digital Red Nas 2 TB
> Seasonic Platinum 1200w
> 
> These are the pictures of the build and the mod:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind regards,


Nice job. I absolutely agree that Phanteks should offer a vented top as an accessory. It makes a rather dramatic difference in performance when a rad is used up top.

However....I have to ask....did you seal off the openings in the rad tray prior to venting the top as below:


This prevents rad exhaust from simply recirculating and getting the interior of the case hotter and hotter. With this done, temps in most builds drop considerably. In my own it was ~7C under load. Prior to doing this, completely removing the top would net me a drop of ~10C. With this done the drop is only 2-3C.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoDeNa*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Surfing on the net searching top mods for the Phanteks Enthoo EvolV ATX Tempered Glass case to improve my rig temperartures finally I decided to go one step further and design mine, as many of you guys did before.


Very nice job! Do you mind saying how you did this, what was your process exactly, tools and materials used etc? Thanks.


----------



## kriz225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Just drill some holes in the bottom and mount it. You may need to mount the pump sideways because the inlet tube goes straight up.


@tucuman This^ is basically what I did with mine, and it worked pretty well. That said, it's a tight fit and it wasn't super comfortable to work with the hard tubing/fittings. Also, I believe the D5 pump most people seem to recommend is a bit bigger than the DDC I used. Here's a pic if it helps:


----------



## nycgtr

Asking here as well just in case.

I just got the evolv atx in and I have a question. I have 2 reservoirs and I am not looking to buy a 3rd. With my front rad being a UT60 I dont have space for a reservoir there. Now I can mount it on the floor or along the back. However, with either the 150ml and 250ml bitspower watertanks I have, the rear fan is going to have to be taken out. I've seen builds without a rear fan. I plan on running 2 140s in the front and 2 120s on top (attched to a xpsc v3 240). This is my first non full/ultra tower, and I am concerned about air flow without a rear fan. I would prefer to mount the reservoir on the rear but I can floor mount if needed. Anyone have any input on how much of a difference the rear fan would make?


----------



## kriz225

I'm not an expert, but I'd imagine how much of a difference it makes would depend significantly on the rest of your setup. I kept the rear as an exhaust fan on mine simply because of how restrictive the top is, so as to help overall flow. You're already looking to have some disparity between intake/exhaust given the fact that you're running bigger fans on one end than the other, unless you plan to run the 140s at much lower RPM.

Why not just use a single, smaller res? I have an EK X3 150 on the rear of my case and it fit fine with the top fan. Only issue I had is with how wide the GTX 1080 is, which meant I couldn't use the built-in mounting holes.

Remember the res is pretty much just for looks/ease of filling the loop. Having two isn't really necessary in a single loop.


----------



## Sh3perd

*Alright, I wanted to wait to do this since my build isn't finished, but I also want to dispel some rumors going on:

I have successfully mounted two 360 30mm rads both in push/pull in the tempered glass version. Pics below:
*


This however was tricky due to initially the top fans hitting as seen here:





The way to "semi" circumvent this was to push the top rad back even further once it is in, to allow for room. But even with this venture, there wasnt enough room unless I *squeezed* that last fan in there. It is so tight, that I did not even put on screws for the top right fan as seen here:





I am not done with my build, so I wont be posting any more pics due to some mess-ups. Please note that mixing primochills blood red dye with pastel extreme white will NOT give you an opaque blood red look. Instead I got strawberry pink. So now I am waiting on pastel red along with some LED's.

Once All is in place, Ill take some glamour shots and explain everything that ive done.

However, in the mean time, feel free to ask questions if you have any.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sh3perd*
> 
> *Alright, I wanted to wait to do this since my build isn't finished, but I also want to dispel some rumors going on:
> 
> I have successfully mounted two 360 30mm rads both in push/pull in the tempered glass version. Pics below:
> *
> 
> 
> This however was tricky due to initially the top fans hitting as seen here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way to "semi" circumvent this was to push the top rad back even further once it is in, to allow for room. But even with this venture, there wasnt enough room unless I *squeezed* that last fan in there. It is so tight, that I did not even put on screws for the top right fan as seen here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not done with my build, so I wont be posting any more pics due to some mess-ups. Please note that mixing primochills blood red dye with pastel extreme white will NOT give you an opaque blood red look. Instead I got strawberry pink. So now I am waiting on pastel red along with some LED's.
> 
> Once All is in place, Ill take some glamour shots and explain everything that ive done.
> 
> However, in the mean time, feel free to ask questions if you have any.


I'm interested to see your temps once complete. Will you add a rear fan?


----------



## Sh3perd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I'm interested to see your temps once complete. Will you add a rear fan?


Negative! Given the fact that I had to push the top rad all the way back, the tubing prevents a fan being mounted there.

As for temps, the gpu is phenomenal. under load, it's max is 38C, (Titan XP OC'ed to 200mhz and 600mhz mem)

I am however having issues with CPU temps going to 90c under stress tests. Though I do not think it is in relation to the loop. Actually just posted regarding my CPU temps (link if interested: here).


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sh3perd*
> 
> Negative! Given the fact that I had to push the top rad all the way back, the tubing prevents a fan being mounted there.
> 
> As for temps, the gpu is phenomenal. under load, it's max is 38C, (Titan XP OC'ed to 200mhz and 600mhz mem)
> 
> I am however having issues with CPU temps going to 90c under stress tests. Though I do not think it is in relation to the loop. Actually just posted regarding my CPU temps (link if interested: here).


Both seem fairly warm. My GPU hits 31 max. What are your water temps? If yo don't have a sensor, do your radiators feel ambient or slightly warm?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sh3perd*
> 
> *Alright, I wanted to wait to do this since my build isn't finished, but I also want to dispel some rumors going on:
> 
> I have successfully mounted two 360 30mm rads both in push/pull in the tempered glass version. Pics below:
> *
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This however was tricky due to initially the top fans hitting as seen here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way to "semi" circumvent this was to push the top rad back even further once it is in, to allow for room. But even with this venture, there wasnt enough room unless I *squeezed* that last fan in there. It is so tight, that I did not even put on screws for the top right fan as seen here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not done with my build, so I wont be posting any more pics due to some mess-ups. Please note that mixing primochills blood red dye with pastel extreme white will NOT give you an opaque blood red look. Instead I got strawberry pink. So now I am waiting on pastel red along with some LED's.
> 
> Once All is in place, Ill take some glamour shots and explain everything that ive done.
> 
> However, in the mean time, feel free to ask questions if you have any
> 
> 
> .


Dispelling the rumour that running slim rads in push/pull offers any real performance benefit would have been a lot easier (documented in countless places, but here is a nice charting - http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/). Same goes for the silly rumour that stuffing fans up in the top where there is too much resistance to work properly is a good idea (which has been shown time and time again in the Phanteks case thread that has many, many more users than this). Sorry, but you did a lot of nudging and squeezing for no effective gain on your front rad, actually worsening the performance of your top rad (and likely the entire loop). "More" does not always mean "better".


----------



## Sh3perd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Both seem fairly warm. My GPU hits 31 max. What are your water temps? If yo don't have a sensor, do your radiators feel ambient or slightly warm?


Wow, dude that's awesome. Whats is your setup and what card(s) are you running? I'd be interested to know. I do not have a sensor sadly. I am not at home at the moment, but will check and see.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Dispelling the rumour that running slim rads in push/pull offers any real performance benefit would have been a lot easier (documented in countless places, but here is a nice charting - http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/). Same goes for the silly rumour that stuffing fans up in the top where there is too much resistance to work properly is a good idea (which has been shown time and time again in the Phanteks case thread that has many, many more users than this). Sorry, but you did a lot of nudging and squeezing for no effective gain on your front rad, actually worsening the performance of your top rad (and likely the entire loop). "More" does not always mean "better".


Wow! It sucks to be me then!

Although, to clarify, the rumor i was attempting to dispel was the limitations of what length rads can go in this specific case, and in what configuration. I did not see anyone do a push/pull on both 360 rads for this case, so I wanted to see if it was possible. It, in fact is.

The *reason* i did push/pull was not for cooling performance in the way you think, but rather noise. The initial result I gave was all fans were running at 18% (PWM) which is around 360rpm and the D5 pump is at 50%. The cool thing (pun intended) about this configuration, is that there is virtually no noise produced, which is what I was aiming for. So it offers the same cooling as one would get in either a push or pull config at lower noise levels. I am happy!

Though you do bring up a good point! It would behoove me and the community to do a proper temp test of the components in this setup to see what temperatures I get if i make a fan curve instead of it being vertical. Ill do some testing and report back!


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sh3perd*
> 
> Wow, dude that's awesome. Whats is your setup and what card(s) are you running? I'd be interested to know. I do not have a sensor sadly. I am not at home at the moment, but will check and see.
> Wow! It sucks to be me then!
> 
> Although, to clarify, the rumor i was attempting to dispel was the limitations of what length rads can go in this specific case, and in what configuration. I did not see anyone do a push/pull on both 360 rads for this case, so I wanted to see if it was possible. It, in fact is.
> 
> The *reason* i did push/pull was not for cooling performance in the way you think, but rather noise. The initial result I gave was all fans were running at 18% (PWM) which is around 360rpm and the D5 pump is at 50%. The cool thing (pun intended) about this configuration, is that there is virtually no noise produced, which is what I was aiming for. So it offers the same cooling as one would get in either a push or pull config at lower noise levels. I am happy!
> 
> Though you do bring up a good point! It would behoove me and the community to do a proper temp test of the components in this setup to see what temperatures I get if i make a fan curve instead of it being vertical. Ill do some testing and report back!


The details are in my sig but I also have lots of radiator crammed into the same case. CPU produces slightly less heat and GPU produces much more.

I'd suggest getting an in-line temp sensor from Performance PCs. It fan help diagnose whether the loop temp is too high. It sounds to me like your fan speed or pump speed is too low for those radiators. I'd be interested tonknow your temps with the D5 at 100% and fans at 900rpm or higher.

I'd also be interested to see how you sealed off the front and top chambers.


----------



## Sh3perd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> The details are in my sig but I also have lots of radiator crammed into the same case. CPU produces slightly less heat and GPU produces much more.
> 
> I'd suggest getting an in-line temp sensor from Performance PCs. It fan help diagnose whether the loop temp is too high. It sounds to me like your fan speed or pump speed is too low for those radiators. I'd be interested toknow your temps with the D5 at 100% and fans at 900rpm or higher.
> .


Didnt see that first part, my bad. And will do on all the other stuff!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I'd also be interested to see how you sealed off the front and top chambers.


Im not sure what you mean by this. Explain?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sh3perd*
> 
> Didnt see that first part, my bad. And will do on all the other stuff!
> Im not sure what you mean by this. Explain?


Tape off all unused holes in the upper chamber and front chamber so there is no chance of pulling warm air into the case.


----------



## doyll

Here is details to blocking unused opening in radiator tray.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13700_20#post_25268315

You might find Phanteks case club thread of interst
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/0_20


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Dispelling the rumour that running slim rads in push/pull offers any real performance benefit would have been a lot easier (documented in countless places, but here is a nice charting - http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/). Same goes for the silly rumour that stuffing fans up in the top where there is too much resistance to work properly is a good idea (which has been shown time and time again in the Phanteks case thread that has many, many more users than this). Sorry, but you did a lot of nudging and squeezing for no effective gain on your front rad, actually worsening the performance of your top rad (and likely the entire loop). "More" does not always mean "better".


Are you saying that there is no way to get good temps when you put the fans in the roof?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> Are you saying that there is no way to get good temps when you put the fans in the roof?


I believe he is saying that fans mounting on top of radiator tray do not have enough airflow space between them and the case top. End result is fans mounted there may actually hinder the airflow a single push fan below radiator moves through radiator .. single push fan moving more air than push /pull fans can.


----------



## atomicus

Here is my just finished Evolv ATX TG build... wrapped in 3M Di-Noc Black Carbon Fibre vinyl, with a custom acrylic shroud wrapped in the same vinyl.

I noticed a bit of GPU sag so I took a bit of 16mm PETG tube, wrapped it in vinyl and added some foam pads either end so nothing gets scratched. Simple but very effective.

I only did a half loop, leaving the 1070 untouched, as I am waiting to see what the 1080Ti or VEGA offers, and at what price.

Pics below. Some more over at my pcpartpicker page... https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/b/RHxG3C


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Here is my just finished Evolv ATX TG build... wrapped in 3M Di-Noc Black Carbon Fibre vinyl, with a custom acrylic shroud wrapped in the same vinyl.
> 
> I noticed a bit of GPU sag so I took a bit of 16mm PETG tube, wrapped it in vinyl and added some foam pads either end so nothing gets scratched. Simple but very effective.
> 
> I only did a half loop, leaving the 1070 untouched, as I am waiting to see what the 1080Ti or VEGA offers, and at what price.
> 
> Pics below. Some more over at my pcpartpicker page... https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/b/RHxG3C
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nifty. You should consider carbon fiber tubing like I'm doing for my next build.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Here is my just finished Evolv ATX TG build... wrapped in 3M Di-Noc Black Carbon Fibre vinyl, with a custom acrylic shroud wrapped in the same vinyl.
> 
> I noticed a bit of GPU sag so I took a bit of 16mm PETG tube, wrapped it in vinyl and added some foam pads either end so nothing gets scratched. Simple but very effective.
> 
> I only did a half loop, leaving the 1070 untouched, as I am waiting to see what the 1080Ti or VEGA offers, and at what price.
> 
> Pics below. Some more over at my pcpartpicker page... https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/b/RHxG3C


That looks really good nice and tidy


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Nifty. You should consider carbon fiber tubing like I'm doing for my next build.


Yeah I saw you were doing that... looks interesting, keen to see how that turns out! Don't think it would match the vinyl I've used unfortunately, but in and of itself I'm sure it will be a very striking look.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Yeah I saw you were doing that... looks interesting, keen to see how that turns out! Don't think it would match the vinyl I've used unfortunately, but in and of itself I'm sure it will be a very striking look.


That's the only issue I have with vinyl, is that unless you do an epoxy coating, or some serious clear coat, is it doesn't quite match dry/matte carbon fiber, and it doesn't quite match glossy carbon fiber either. It does look great still, though. You'll see it in the water cooling thread soon enough. The case I was releases 2/10, and then after some mods and what not I should hopefully have it set up by the end of February.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Nifty. You should consider carbon fiber tubing like I'm doing for my next build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ooooo... can we can more (clearer) pics of those tubes?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> That's the only issue I have with vinyl, is that unless you do an epoxy coating, or some serious clear coat, is it doesn't quite match dry/matte carbon fiber, and it doesn't quite match glossy carbon fiber either. It does look great still, though. You'll see it in the water cooling thread soon enough. The case I was releases 2/10, and then after some mods and what not I should hopefully have it set up by the end of February.


You sure about that?


Spoiler: Show Image







BTW @atomicus nice build!


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Ooooo... can we can more (clearer) pics of those tubes?


I've been too lazy to use my actual camera, but this one is relatively clear from my phone. I don't want to post too many more here and de-rail the thread, so, this is all you get for now, until it's done









I'll have more posted in the watercooling gallery thread, as I said in a post above, hopefully by the end of the month. And with a real camera that time also










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I've been too lazy to use my actual camera, but this one is relatively clear from my phone. I don't want to post too many more here and de-rail the thread, so, this is all you get for now, until it's done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll have more posted in the watercooling gallery thread, as I said in a post above, hopefully by the end of the month. And with a real camera that time also
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow! That is really nice. Where did you get the tubes? Also see my post you quoted. I use this CF wrap in my build and it has the "epoxy" effect. Very high quality stuff.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Wow! That is really nice. Where did you get the tubes? Also see my post you quoted. I use this CF wrap in my build and it has the "epoxy" effect. Very high quality stuff.


That stuff has a very realistic look! Pretty neat!

I got it off Amazon actually. There's a few sellers; and I bought both matte and glossy samples. Only the glossy came in so far. They only "standard" sizes (for use as watercooling) I saw they had available were 12mm OD and 16mm OD. I went with 16mm, because I like the thicker look. I got two 500mm lengths for $20, and I believe the matte was a similar price. They're actually designed as use for drone armatures and hobbyist RC crafts. But I think they'll hold up fine for my loop. They should be okay with the distilled water and EK-Koolant mix. I may coat their insides with some chemical resistant sealant, but, I really don't think it'll be necessary.


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I believe he is saying that fans mounting on top of radiator tray do not have enough airflow space between them and the case top. End result is fans mounted there may actually hinder the airflow a single push fan below radiator moves through radiator .. single push fan moving more air than push /pull fans can.


I've put the fans up top and my temps are very average. What are my options without having to redo my loop. Any help would be appreciated!


----------



## DONGOTTI

I'm piecing together parts and so far I have a 360 and a 280. From what I'm reading the 280 has to sit partially into the basement? I have 2 HDD's so is it possible I will be fine or will I need to remove one?

Also, I'm still trying to figure out what size pump/res combo will fit.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I believe he is saying that fans mounting on top of radiator tray do not have enough airflow space between them and the case top. End result is fans mounted there may actually hinder the airflow a single push fan below radiator moves through radiator .. single push fan moving more air than push /pull fans can.


Exactly what I was saying. The top fans actually lessen performance, not improve it. I am also saying that running slim rads in push/pull offers no performance gain over push or pull only.....as has been shown in test after test after test......


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> I've put the fans up top and my temps are very average. What are my options without having to redo my loop. Any help would be appreciated!


Simple. Take the fans out of the roof and mount them on the underside of the rad in push exhaust.


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Simple. Take the fans out of the roof and mount them on the underside of the rad in push exhaust.


Alright ill give it a shot. I can only mount 2 out of the 3 though. there isnt enough room on top of the 240 to clear a fan. I can't drop it down either as I have 2 HDDs


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DONGOTTI*
> 
> I'm piecing together parts and so far I have a 360 and a 280. From what I'm reading the 280 has to sit partially into the basement? I have 2 HDD's so is it possible I will be fine or will I need to remove one?
> 
> Also, I'm still trying to figure out what size pump/res combo will fit.


I don't think you can go in to the basement and use any 3.5" drives there, as it necessitates removal of the metal bracket sliding mechanism that takes the HDD drives. If you want drives down there, I think you need to stick with a 240 rad and keep it out of the bottom.

I have used an Alphacool Eisbecher D5 150mm Acetal reservoir and Alphacool VPP655 pump in mine... fits well, and I have room for rad+fans up top. Pic below.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Simple. Take the fans out of the roof and mount them on the underside of the rad in push exhaust.


Does that actually benefit? I'd be interested to know what temps you'd get with that setup. I've always been of the view you need to mod the top panel if you're putting a rad+fans up there, it's just too choked otherwise.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> I've put the fans up top and my temps are very average. What are my options without having to redo my loop. Any help would be appreciated!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The distance between top of radiator tray and top of case is fans and top of case is about 45mm. Fans are 25mm. This leaves you 20mm for airflow. You need about 35mm of space from fan to flat surface to match the airflow area of 2x 120mm fans side by side.

2x 120mm fans have an airflow area of about 200sq cm
20mm clearance with fans on top of radiator is only 123 sq cm of airflow area.

Evolv ATX top venting:
*32.4 sq cm* stock top venting.
*56.8 sq cm* airflow area with side vent mesh removed
*110.6 sq cm* airflow area with side vent mesh removed and top set on latches

Edit: With 3x 120 the fan airflow area is about 300sq cm.

And if you haven't already blocks off all open hole between top of case and motherboard compartment you need to do so .. to keep heated air comlng out of radiator from circling back down into motherboard area.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Does that actually benefit? I'd be interested to know what temps you'd get with that setup. I've always been of the view you need to mod the top panel if you're putting a rad+fans up there, it's just too choked otherwise.


Same as above. Fans have to be on bottom side of radiator tray, not on top of it, and under radiator allows radiatot to straighten airflow, meaning it is less turbulant and flow out of case with less resistance. There isn't even room on top of radiator tray in mine. 25mm fans hold top up about 3mm.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Fans have to be on bottom side of radiator tray, not on top of it, and under radiator allows radiatot to straighten airflow, meaning it is less turbulant and flow out of case with less resistance. There isn't even room on top of radiator tray in mine. 25mm fans hold top up about 3mm.


So what if you did that but had the fans as exhaust blowing up through the rad? Interested if anyone has tried that.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> So what if you did that but had the fans as exhaust blowing up through the rad? Interested if anyone has tried that.


















Your question in in what you quoted me saying.
Quote:


> Fans have to be on bottom side of radiator tray, not on top of it, and under radiator allows radiator to straighten airflow, meaning it is less turbulent and flow out of case with less resistance. There isn't even room on top of radiator tray in mine. 25mm fans hold top up about 3mm.


That is an educated guess as to why. Others have found fans flow best and radiator cools best with fans pushing air into radiator in Evolv ATX rather than pulling air out of radiator.


----------



## DONGOTTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> I don't think you can go in to the basement and use any 3.5" drives there, as it necessitates removal of the metal bracket sliding mechanism that takes the HDD drives. If you want drives down there, I think you need to stick with a 240 rad and keep it out of the bottom.
> 
> I have used an Alphacool Eisbecher D5 150mm Acetal reservoir and Alphacool VPP655 pump in mine... fits well, and I have room for rad+fans up top. Pic below.
> 
> That little piece of info I didn't know, thank you. So since I've already purchased a 280, looks like I need to get an SSD now dammit lol


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The distance between top of radiator tray and top of case is fans and top of case is about 45mm. Fans are 25mm. This leaves you 20mm for airflow. You need about 35mm of space from fan to flat surface to match the airflow area of 2x 120mm fans side by side.
> 
> 2x 120mm fans have an airflow area of about 200sq cm
> 20mm clearance with fans on top of radiator is only 123 sq cm of airflow area.
> 
> Evolv ATX top venting:
> *32.4 sq cm* stock top venting.
> *56.8 sq cm* airflow area with side vent mesh removed
> *110.6 sq cm* airflow area with side vent mesh removed and top set on latches
> 
> Edit: With 3x 120 the fan airflow area is about 300sq cm.
> 
> And if you haven't already blocks off all open hole between top of case and motherboard compartment you need to do so .. to keep heated air comlng out of radiator from circling back down into motherboard area.
> Same as above. Fans have to be on bottom side of radiator tray, not on top of it, and under radiator allows radiatot to straighten airflow, meaning it is less turbulant and flow out of case with less resistance. There isn't even room on top of radiator tray in mine. 25mm fans hold top up about 3mm.


Ive already blocked off the top part so hot air cant make its way back down. See photos below. So you think i will get better temps if i put the fans under the rad rather that on top because there will be more space for the air to flow into?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> So what if you did that but had the fans as exhaust blowing up through the rad? Interested if anyone has tried that.


Thats what i have done. took a fair bit of modding. looks clean though. The issues is my temps are bad


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> Thats what i have done. took a fair bit of modding. looks clean though. The issues is my temps are bad


I actually meant the other way around, so fans underneath the rad, leaving the top section more open. Would that help?

Regardless, I think the only way to get good temps in this case with a rad/fans up top is to mod that top panel entirely, with circular or rectangular cut out and add mesh.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> Ive already blocked off the top part so hot air cant make its way back down. See photos below. So you think i will get better temps if i put the fans under the rad rather that on top because there will be more space for the air to flow into?
> Thats what i have done. took a fair bit of modding. looks clean though. The issues is my temps are bad
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


A couple of pictures say a thousand words.....and reveal a multitude of issues.

Why would you possibly replace the F140SP/MP intakes with Tt fans? You can't see them, so it's not for looks. The Phanteks are far better performers in restrictive (and all) environments, so....it isn't for performance. That alone is a pretty hefty downgrade to the fresh air intake of your rig.

Why would you possibly stuff fans into a place they don't belong, almost up against a panel with no room to operate properly? And do it with Tt fans that are known to be awful in even mildly restrictive environments? Not having fan mounts up there isn't a design flaw - they aren't there because fans can't flow air properly there.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> Ive already blocked off the top part so hot air cant make its way back down. See photos below. So you think i will get better temps if i put the fans under the rad rather that on top because there will be more space for the air to flow into?
> Thats what i have done. took a fair bit of modding. looks clean though. The issues is my temps are bad


What holes have you blocked of?? Every one I can see in your picture is open!!! What about all the slots along side of the radiator and fans? You know, the ones I can see your *********** cables through. Those are all letting the heated air that is coming out of your radiator go right back down and is heating up your motherboard compartment airflow that is going into radiator!!!

Your radiator is over 3 holes, 2 with radiator as in picture and the one big one. *All of the other red places on first pic of radiator tray except the are holes that need to be closed so air cannot flow through them!!!! They are all leaking air back down into motherboard compartment from above radiator!!!*


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> I actually meant the other way around, so fans underneath the rad, leaving the top section more open. Would that help?
> 
> Regardless, I think the only way to get good temps in this case with a rad/fans up top is to mod that top panel entirely, with circular or rectangular cut out and add mesh.


When all holes in readiator tray except where radiator fin area is are closed of so no air can leak between the top compartment of case and motherboard compartment the case works very well.

The problem is people who do not understand that the fans that are pushing air through the radiator have to be able to continue pushing the air out of case, and if there are other open areas (the holes we keep saying need to be blocked) these holes are the "path of least resistance' and the heated coming out of radiator will flow down through them instead of out of the case through the vents.

This is not rocket science folk. Air goes where it has the least resistance .. that is the closest and most open holes .. and those nice open holes in the radiator mounting tray are definitely the 'path of least resistance'. The vent grills are way more resistant to airflow then those nice open holes!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> A couple of pictures say a thousand words.....and reveal a multitude of issues.
> 
> Why would you possibly replace the F140SP/MP intakes with Tt fans? You can't see them, so it's not for looks. The Phanteks are far better performers in restrictive (and all) environments, so....it isn't for performance. That alone is a pretty hefty downgrade to the fresh air intake of your rig.
> 
> Why would you possibly stuff fans into a place they don't belong, almost up against a panel with no room to operate properly? And do it with Tt fans that are known to be awful in even mildly restrictive environments? Not having fan mounts up there isn't a design flaw - they aren't there because fans can't flow air properly there.


Look at the pictures he just posted to show how the radaitor tray holes "already blocked off the top part so hot air cant make its way back down."
Either they are the before pictures or holes are not blocked off!!

We have lead the mule to water but we can't make it drink.


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> A couple of pictures say a thousand words.....and reveal a multitude of issues.
> 
> Why would you possibly replace the F140SP/MP intakes with Tt fans? You can't see them, so it's not for looks. The Phanteks are far better performers in restrictive (and all) environments, so....it isn't for performance. That alone is a pretty hefty downgrade to the fresh air intake of your rig.
> 
> Why would you possibly stuff fans into a place they don't belong, almost up against a panel with no room to operate properly? And do it with Tt fans that are known to be awful in even mildly restrictive environments? Not having fan mounts up there isn't a design flaw - they aren't there because fans can't flow air properly there.


I am running a 240 and a 360... 140mm fans don't work with these rads. The reason i picked these fans was not for the looks. Yes i am well aware that you cannot see the fans so i did not pick them for a visual aspect. On paper they were pretty good for Price vs Performance. All the reviews i could find said they performed well.
I "stuffed" the fans up there because it is a common mod for this case (thinking it would work seeing as people had done it before). Clearly I was wrong.... So yes that was my bad and i will wear that now that i have cut up my case for a mod that doesnt work.... But sometimes you have to make a mistake to learn?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Look at the pictures he just posted to show how the radaitor tray holes "already blocked off the top part so hot air cant make its way back down."
> Either they are the before pictures or holes are not blocked off!!
> 
> We have lead the mule to water but we can't make it drink.


My bad i uploaded the wrong photo....


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> I am running a 240 and a 360... 140mm fans don't work with these rads. The reason i picked these fans was not for the looks. Yes i am well aware that you cannot see the fans so i did not pick them for a visual aspect. On paper they were pretty good for Price vs Performance. All the reviews i could find said they performed well.
> I "stuffed" the fans up there because it is a common mod for this case (thinking it would work seeing as people had done it before). Clearly I was wrong.... So yes that was my bad and i will wear that now that i have cut up my case for a mod that doesnt work.... But sometimes you have to make a mistake to learn?
> My bad i uploaded the wrong photo....


I find it very strange that after closing off all those holes in radiator tray you did not notice a difference in cooling .. maybe it'a because that radiator isn't doing any cooling .. are you sure it is a working part of your loop?







Sorry couldn't resist.








These holes when not blocked are the "path of least resistance' and the heated coming out of radiator will flow down through them into motherboard compartment instead of out of the case through the vents.
When all holes in radiator tray except where radiator fin area is are closed of so no air can leak between the top compartment of case and motherboard compartment the case works very well.
What I described before has been varified by many users of Evolv cases when using top radiator and/or fans.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I find it very strange that after closing off all those holes in radiator tray you did not notice a difference in cooling .. maybe it'a because that radiator isn't doing any cooling .. are you sure it is a working part of your loop?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry couldn't resist.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These holes when not blocked are the "path of least resistance' and the heated coming out of radiator will flow down through them into motherboard compartment instead of out of the case through the vents.
> When all holes in radiator tray except where radiator fin area is are closed of so no air can leak between the top compartment of case and motherboard compartment the case works very well.[/LIST


Does that actually work to any great extent though? As exhaust or intake? It always seemed obvious to me that the problem with this case was the small vents and restrictive mesh, which chokes the airflow in that top section. So even if you have the holes closed off so air can't escape back down in to the case, it still ends up hot boxing the top section. A simple test is to see what happens to temps when you remove the top panel entirely. I'd be amazed if you didn't see a big drop. This is why I've seen quite a few people cut big holes in that top panel to improve airflow. Drastic of course, but clearly Phanteks didn't give much thought to full custom loops when designing the case.


----------



## paskowitz

I think it is just the Tt Riing fans saying "Bro, I wasn't meant for this... cough... cough... gasp."


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Does that actually work to any great extent though? As exhaust or intake? It always seemed obvious to me that the problem with this case was the small vents and restrictive mesh, which chokes the airflow in that top section. So even if you have the holes closed off so air can't escape back down in to the case, it still ends up hot boxing the top section. A simple test is to see what happens to temps when you remove the top panel entirely. I'd be amazed if you didn't see a big drop. This is why I've seen quite a few people cut big holes in that top panel to improve airflow. Drastic of course, but clearly Phanteks didn't give much thought to full custom loops when designing the case.


Yes, it does work.
Air flows the path of least resistance. The holes in radiator tray are wide open with no resistance at all. The vent holes in case top have a mesh grill in them .. obviously that mesh will not flow air as easily as the holes will. Flowing air farther also requires more force to overcome the resistance to flow. All of theses things combine / stack up and the end result is it is almost always easier for air to flow through nice open holes than anywhere else.

I'm not saying the small vents in sides of top panel are not restrictive, obviously they are. But ere are also vents in the ends of top that flow air. So when the holes in radiator tray are blocked and we are using a good fan that can overcome resistance the air will be forced out of the case.

The airflow area of Evolv ATX top stock = 32.4 sq cm
With vent grills removed = 56.8 sq cm.
Vent grills removed and setting on top of case so it's spaced up 5mm = 110.6 sq cm

By comparison a 120mm fan has about 100 sq cm of airflow area.

Here is link to it in Phanteks case forum
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13240_20#post_25198233
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I think it is just the Tt Riing fans saying "Bro, I wasn't meant for this... cough... cough... gasp."


The ability of the T-fake fans could be part of the problem. Their airflow ability is pretty good, but they are very loud diong it too. so it is very possible they are not running very fast.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yes, it does work.
> Air flows the path of least resistance. The holes in radiator tray are wide open with no resistance at all. The vent holes in case top have a mesh grill in them .. obviously that mesh will not flow air as easily as the holes will. Flowing air farther also requires more force to overcome the resistance to flow. All of theses things combine / stack up and the end result is it is almost always easier for air to flow through nice open holes than anywhere else.
> 
> I'm not saying the small vents in sides of top panel are not restrictive, obviously they are. But ere are also vents in the ends of top that flow air. So when the holes in radiator tray are blocked and we are using a good fan that can overcome resistance the air will be forced out of the case.
> 
> The airflow area of Evolv ATX top stock = 32.4 sq cm
> With vent grills removed = 56.8 sq cm.
> Vent grills removed and setting on top of case so it's spaced up 5mm = 110.6 sq cm
> 
> By comparison a 120mm fan has about 100 sq cm of airflow area.
> 
> Here is link to it in Phanteks case forum
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13240_20#post_25198233


Yes, I totally get all that... I'm just wondering though what the difference in temps is between the below three scenarios and if anyone has ever tested it...

1.) As suggested, rad tray holes blocked off, top panel as standard, fans underneath rad, trying as both exhaust and intake
2.) Top panel removed
3.) Top panel modded with cut out and mesh added

I imagine 2 and 3 are similar, but you don't buy this case and then go with option 2 lol! So it's more of an indicator as to how much difference option 3 will make.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Yes, I totally get all that... I'm just wondering though what the difference in temps is between the below three scenarios and if anyone has ever tested it...
> 
> 1.) As suggested, rad tray holes blocked off, top panel as standard, fans underneath rad, trying as both exhaust and intake
> 2.) Top panel removed
> 3.) Top panel modded with cut out and mesh added
> 
> I imagine 2 and 3 are similar, but you don't buy this case and then go with option 2 lol! So it's more of an indicator as to how much difference option 3 will make.


There will be some difference between 1 & 2, but it depends a lot on how good the fans are at overcoming resistance.
The similarity / difference between 2 & 3 not only depends on fans being used, but how big the added vents are .. what the airflow area increase is.

I have not seen a top vent mod on Evolv I really liked yet .. I'm not even sure what would look good. I do know removing the screws that hold top on, pulling the top off and just setting it back down on it's latching clips works very well, even better if the grill mess on little slot vents is removed.


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Here is my just finished Evolv ATX TG build... wrapped in 3M Di-Noc Black Carbon Fibre vinyl, with a custom acrylic shroud wrapped in the same vinyl.
> 
> I noticed a bit of GPU sag so I took a bit of 16mm PETG tube, wrapped it in vinyl and added some foam pads either end so nothing gets scratched. Simple but very effective.
> 
> I only did a half loop, leaving the 1070 untouched, as I am waiting to see what the 1080Ti or VEGA offers, and at what price.
> 
> Pics below. Some more over at my pcpartpicker page... https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/b/RHxG3C


Thanks for the idea, I'm gonna wrap my EVOLV in the carbon fiber too.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I think it is just the Tt Riing fans saying "Bro, I wasn't meant for this... cough... cough... gasp."


That is a big part of it.


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I find it very strange that after closing off all those holes in radiator tray you did not notice a difference in cooling .. maybe it'a because that radiator isn't doing any cooling .. are you sure it is a working part of your loop?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry couldn't resist.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These holes when not blocked are the "path of least resistance' and the heated coming out of radiator will flow down through them into motherboard compartment instead of out of the case through the vents.
> When all holes in radiator tray except where radiator fin area is are closed of so no air can leak between the top compartment of case and motherboard compartment the case works very well.
> What I described before has been varified by many users of Evolv cases when using top radiator and/or fans.


I haven't blocked off any of the holes on the removable radiator mount. I didn't see the point seeing as once the air goes past the last point of the fan it cant come back due to the foil Ive already put in. Do you think its worth trying to put foil there as well?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Does that actually work to any great extent though? As exhaust or intake? It always seemed obvious to me that the problem with this case was the small vents and restrictive mesh, which chokes the airflow in that top section. So even if you have the holes closed off so air can't escape back down in to the case, it still ends up hot boxing the top section. A simple test is to see what happens to temps when you remove the top panel entirely. I'd be amazed if you didn't see a big drop. This is why I've seen quite a few people cut big holes in that top panel to improve airflow. Drastic of course, but clearly Phanteks didn't give much thought to full custom loops when designing the case.


When I remove the top panel the temps drop by about 15 degrees C. So its definitely the top panel causing the issue. Not sure what to do next though, because cutting a hole in the top isn't on the table for me (looks ugly).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Yes, I totally get all that... I'm just wondering though what the difference in temps is between the below three scenarios and if anyone has ever tested it...
> 
> 1.) As suggested, rad tray holes blocked off, top panel as standard, fans underneath rad, trying as both exhaust and intake
> 2.) Top panel removed
> 3.) Top panel modded with cut out and mesh added
> 
> I imagine 2 and 3 are similar, but you don't buy this case and then go with option 2 lol! So it's more of an indicator as to how much difference option 3 will make.


Option 1 is the only viable option. Do do intake or exhaust thought?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I think it is just the Tt Riing fans saying "Bro, I wasn't meant for this... cough... cough... gasp."


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> That is a big part of it.


Maybe so but acording to the specs they are pretty good? Correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## paskowitz

According to specs a Corvette Z06 should be faster than a GT-R Nismo. However that is not the case. Snark aside, the Riing fans aren't "bad", just not great. eLoops, Vardars, GTs, Noctua ippc, Corsair MLs etc are better at static pressure and the evolv needs all the help it can get.

No one decision makes a huge difference, but all together you see the needle moved. The right fans, the right rad, blocked openings, top on clips, push vs pull, etc.


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> According to to specs a Corvette Z06 should be faster than a GT-R Nismo. However that is not the case. Snark aside, the Riing fans aren't "bad", just not great. eLoops, Vardars, GTs, Noctua ippc, Corsair MLs etc are better at static pressure and the evolv needs all the help it can get.
> 
> No one decision makes a huge difference, but all together you see the needle moved. The right fans, the right rad, blocked openings, top on clips, push vs pull, etc.


Okay, I see what you mean. What do I do now though hahah. I was thinking that maybe I should move the fans to under the Rad and tape up the holes. Then see how i go from there? Also should the fans be intake or exhausting?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> I haven't blocked off any of the holes on the removable radiator mount. I didn't see the point seeing as once the air goes past the last point of the fan it cant come back due to the foil Ive already put in. Do you think its worth trying to put foil there as well?
> When I remove the top panel the temps drop by about 15 degrees C. So its definitely the top panel causing the issue. Not sure what to do next though, because cutting a hole in the top isn't on the table for me (looks ugly).
> Option 1 is the only viable option. Do do intake or exhaust thought?
> 
> Maybe so but acording to the specs they are pretty good? Correct me if I'm wrong.


This is the important statements are:
*"I haven't blocked off any of the holes on the removable radiator mount"*
and
*"When I remove the top panel the temps drop by about 15 degrees C. So its definitely the top panel causing the issue."*
Are your fans mounted only onto the top of case? Or are they mounted with screws through top of case, fan and into radiator?

There are basically two thing that can cause the above; 1/ fans are not powerful enough to overcome resistance of radiator and case venting. 2/ Heated air for radiator is leaking back into motherboard compartment.

What do temps do when top cover is just setting on top of case rather than clipped down tight?

Best option may be to get better fans .. fans that flow more air in restrictive conditions.

I would really like to know what the air temp going into radiator is. Could you monitor radiator intake airflow temp?
This is what I use and how it is setup:

A cheap indoor/outdoor thermometer with a piece of insulated wire and a plastic clothspin works great.
Made up with floral wire and tape. We don't want anything to short out with metal.








Clip and position sensor where I want to check the temp. Make it easy to see what the air temp going into components actually is relative to room temp.








Optimum cooling is when air temps going into coolers only being 2-3c warmer than room.. 5c or less is good.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> This is the important statements are:
> *"I haven't blocked off any of the holes on the removable radiator mount"*
> and
> *"When I remove the top panel the temps drop by about 15 degrees C. So its definitely the top panel causing the issue."*
> Are your fans mounted only onto the top of case? Or are they mounted with screws through top of case, fan and into radiator?


The other important implied statement is "fans that perform very badly in restrictive conditions are mounted where they shouldn't be and are blowing at a panel almost directly against them". Of course there is a huge drop in temps when this restriction is taken away. It's like driving your car up to the side of a building, and saying "it accelerates poorly when against the building, but when the building is not there it accelerates fine".

Sorry, but the whole "I put fans where Phanteks said not to because I know more about how the case flows air than they do" mod just doesn't work. We have seen it over.....and over.....and over.....and over..... Just as we have seen the Tt fans underperforming over....and over....etc.....etc....


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> This is the important statements are:
> *"I haven't blocked off any of the holes on the removable radiator mount"*
> and
> *"When I remove the top panel the temps drop by about 15 degrees C. So its definitely the top panel causing the issue."*
> Are your fans mounted only onto the top of case? Or are they mounted with screws through top of case, fan and into radiator?
> 
> There are basically two thing that can cause the above; 1/ fans are not powerful enough to overcome resistance of radiator and case venting. 2/ Heated air for radiator is leaking back into motherboard compartment.
> 
> What do temps do when top cover is just setting on top of case rather than clipped down tight?
> 
> Best option may be to get better fans .. fans that flow more air in restrictive conditions.
> 
> I would really like to know what the air temp going into radiator is. Could you monitor radiator intake airflow temp?
> This is what I use and how it is setup:
> 
> A cheap indoor/outdoor thermometer with a piece of insulated wire and a plastic clothspin works great.
> Made up with floral wire and tape. We don't want anything to short out with metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clip and position sensor where I want to check the temp. Make it easy to see what the air temp going into components actually is relative to room temp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optimum cooling is when air temps going into coolers only being 2-3c warmer than room.. 5c or less is good.


When the top of the case is lifted off and just resting on the clips the temps drop by a few degrees.
Fans are hard mounted to the rad with long screws, not mounted to the case. So the air is definitely pulling through the rad into the top of the case. With the way I have done it and the tin foil there is no way for the hot air to come back down.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The other important implied statement is "fans that perform very badly in restrictive conditions are mounted where they shouldn't be and are blowing at a panel almost directly against them". Of course there is a huge drop in temps when this restriction is taken away. It's like driving your car up to the side of a building, and saying "it accelerates poorly when against the building, but when the building is not there it accelerates fine".
> 
> Sorry, but the whole "I put fans where Phanteks said not to because I know more about how the case flows air than they do" mod just doesn't work. We have seen it over.....and over.....and over.....and over..... Just as we have seen the Tt fans underperforming over....and over....etc.....etc....


I understand that but that wasn't my attitude at all. I don't know why you're so salty at this. I'm not saying the case is **** or anything. This was a risk I took and it didn't work out. Now all I'm looking for is some help with setting it up so it runs more efficiently an cooler.

So if I put the fans under the rad inside the case I have the issue that I can only fit 2 of the 3 for the 360 because I have the 24 in the front. Would only 2 be enough? Would putting a fan in the back of the case help / be worth doing?


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> When the top of the case is lifted off and just resting on the clips the temps drop by a few degrees.
> Fans are hard mounted to the rad with long screws, not mounted to the case. So the air is definitely pulling through the rad into the top of the case. With the way I have done it and the tin foil there is no way for the hot air to come back down.
> I understand that but that wasn't my attitude at all. I don't know why you're so salty at this. I'm not saying the case is **** or anything. This was a risk I took and it didn't work out. Now all I'm looking for is some help with setting it up so it runs more efficiently an cooler.
> 
> So if I put the fans under the rad inside the case I have the issue that I can only fit 2 of the 3 for the 360 because I have the 24 in the front. Would only 2 be enough? Would putting a fan in the back of the case help / be worth doing?


If it were me and this is what im going to do is cut a hole in the top of the case, problem solved.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> If it were me and this is what im going to do is cut a hole in the top of the case, problem solved.


This is what I also plan to do personally... I have an idea that will make it as attractive as possible, but will require a bit of work. It's the only way to ensure good temps in this case for a full loop. Anything else is a compromise and in my view defeats a big chunk of the purpose in going the WC route in the first place.

What I am less clear on is where to mount fans in this scenario. With the top panel cut and open (but filtered), would they be best placed within that top section as intake or exhaust, or underneath the rad as intake or exhaust? My leaning would be intake in order to retain positive pressure.


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> If it were me and this is what im going to do is cut a hole in the top of the case, problem solved.


How do you go with temps in your setup?


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> How do you go with temps in your setup?


Never really had an issue with temps until i discovered SandyLake 7700k lol even delided these things run hot. At 1.39V delided my [email protected] runs hotter than my delided [email protected] at 1.45V ever did hence why i want to put a big hole in the top of the case to let the heat out. Under load (realbench) with a 27 degree ambient my temps are a good 15 degrees c lower on average across the cores with the top removed. Im thinking of putting 2 holes in the top beside each other similar to what the side vents look like but much larger obviously. I could run the fans faster and speed up the ramp up rate but im a silence snob so thats not really an option.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> This is what I also plan to do personally... I have an idea that will make it as attractive as possible, but will require a bit of work. It's the only way to ensure good temps in this case for a full loop. Anything else is a compromise and in my view defeats a big chunk of the purpose in going the WC route in the first place.
> 
> What I am less clear on is where to mount fans in this scenario. With the top panel cut and open (but filtered), would they be best placed within that top section as intake or exhaust, or underneath the rad as intake or exhaust? My leaning would be intake in order to retain positive pressure.


Mine are set up as exhaust up top with 2 in the front and 1 in the back as intake which i run a bit faster than the top ones.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> When the top of the case is lifted off and just resting on the clips the temps drop by a few degrees.
> Fans are hard mounted to the rad with long screws, not mounted to the case. So the air is definitely pulling through the rad into the top of the case. With the way I have done it and the tin foil there is no way for the hot air to come back down.
> I understand that but that wasn't my attitude at all. I don't know why you're so salty at this. I'm not saying the case is **** or anything. This was a risk I took and it didn't work out. Now all I'm looking for is some help with setting it up so it runs more efficiently an cooler.
> 
> So if I put the fans under the rad inside the case I have the issue that I can only fit 2 of the 3 for the 360 because I have the 24 in the front. Would only 2 be enough? Would putting a fan in the back of the case help / be worth doing?


We need to know for sure the radiator is receiving airlfow at or near room temperature .. and the reason I asked
Quote:


> I would really like to know what the air temp going into radiator is. Could you monitor radiator intake airflow temp?


And showed you what I use to monitor airflow temperature.

If radiator is receiving air at or near room temp, the options are fans that can overcome resistance and flow air or removing resistance.

Maybe I'm not understanding things, but if radiator will fit below the fans, why can't the fans fit below the radiator?








Isn't the bottom of radiator with fans onto top of it at the same level the front fan would be if radiator was on top?


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Never really had an issue with temps until i discovered SandyLake 7700k lol even delided these things run hot. At 1.39V delided my [email protected] runs hotter than my delided [email protected] at 1.45V ever did hence why i want to put a big hole in the top of the case to let the heat out. Under load (realbench) with a 27 degree ambient my temps are a good 15 degrees c lower on average across the cores with the top removed. Im thinking of putting 2 holes in the top beside each other similar to what the side vents look like but much larger obviously. I could run the fans faster and speed up the ramp up rate but im a silence snob so thats not really an option.


I'm about the same, What are your GFX and CPU temps under load? I don't think I could being myself to cut the top panel. It would destroy the look of the case.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Mine are set up as exhaust up top with 2 in the front and 1 in the back as intake which i run a bit faster than the top ones.


What do you use to control the fans individually?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> We need to know for sure the radiator is receiving airlfow at or near room temperature .. and the reason I asked
> And showed you what I use to monitor airflow temperature.
> 
> If radiator is receiving air at or near room temp, the options are fans that can overcome resistance and flow air or removing resistance.
> 
> Maybe I'm not understanding things, but if radiator will fit below the fans, why can't the fans fit below the radiator?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Isn't the bottom of radiator with fans onto top of it at the same level the front fan would be if radiator was on top?


I'll look at purchasing a temp monitor to do some tests. But I think the temp the rad is getting is okay. Just by lifting the top panel up and not clipping it down the temps drop by 10C if not more.
Yes they would be the same. I was referring to pulling the fans out of the roof so the both rad and fans are on the inside of the removable tray.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> I'm about the same, What are your GFX and CPU temps under load? I don't think I could being myself to cut the top panel. It would destroy the look of the case.
> What do you use to control the fans individually?
> I'll look at purchasing a temp monitor to do some tests. But I think the temp the rad is getting is okay. Just by lifting the top panel up and not clipping it down the temps drop by 10C if not more.
> Yes they would be the same. I was referring to pulling the fans out of the roof so the both rad and fans are on the inside of the removable tray.


2 x GTX1070 sit around 50 to 55 degrees C under load with 27 degree C ambient (RealBench) CPU sits around 80 to 85 degrees C while running OCCT large data sets 27 degree ambient. I control my fans by using the 6 fan headers on my motherboard and set the curves and ramp up/down times within the UEFI that way i dont get fans surging up and down by simply going from one web page to another (Chrome is hardware accelerated) also allows me to monitor individual fan speeds with AIDA 64







Im not going to cut the top out myself as using a jigsaw would just look bad instead i will take it to a machine shop through my work and have it cut out properly with a mill.


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> 2 x GTX1070 sit around 50 to 55 degrees C under load with 27 degree C ambient (RealBench) CPU sits around 80 to 85 degrees C while running OCCT large data sets 27 degree ambient. I control my fans by using the 6 fan headers on my motherboard and set the curves and ramp up/down times within the UEFI that way i dont get fans surging up and down by simply going from one web page to another (Chrome is hardware accelerated) also allows me to monitor individual fan speeds with AIDA 64
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im not going to cut the top out myself as using a jigsaw would just look bad instead i will take it to a machine shop through my work and have it cut out properly with a mill.


Okay good hahahah, I imagine that the panel would be pretty hard to cut anyway. I think the solid piece of aluminum looks so good though... Having a vent wouldnt look as good. But its the age old question.. Performance or looks?
Your CPU temp is a lot hotter than mine. I have a 2500K OC to 4.2 GHz. But your dual cards run cooler than my 290.
Did you stress test you GPU and CPU at the same time or one then the other?


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> Okay good hahahah, I imagine that the panel would be pretty hard to cut anyway. I think the solid piece of aluminum looks so good though... Having a vent wouldnt look as good. But its the age old question.. Performance or looks?
> Your CPU temp is a lot hotter than mine. I have a 2500K OC to 4.2 GHz. But your dual cards run cooler than my 290.
> Did you stress test you GPU and CPU at the same time or one then the other?


Realbench tests both gpu's and cpu at the same time hence why there is a fair bit of heat since they are all in the same loop. If i run [email protected] with the cache at 4.9Ghz i need 1.39Vcore to do that to pass an hour of Realbench with a 27 degree ambient BUT i had to remove the top of the case to let the heat out otherwise it became unstable due to the temps, hence why i want to put a hole in the top. In my situation i wont really notice the top of the case anyway so its a mute point for me. Running OCCT for an hour produced even more heat but it was stable with the case lid off. For the moment im running [email protected] cache at 4.8Ghz 1.325Vcore with reasonable temps in the high 60s to low 70s running Realbench. Kaby lake seems to like being below around 75 degrees C at least my sample does.


----------



## Sh3perd

My build is finally complete:





More pics can be found


http://imgur.com/cAFmT


So not sure what temps im supposed to be getting, but with push/pull, i think this case is great!

Max GPU temp with firestrike:


Max CPU temp doing stress test:


For those on their ipads/phones:
Intel 6850k: overclocked to 4.3Ghz with vcore at 1.25, and VCCIN at 1.900v.
Testing was done with an ambient room temp of 23c.
idle temps: ~24c
Max temp under load (using Prime95 stress test): 60

Nvidia Titan Pascal X:
Idle temp: ~23c
Max temp under load (using Unique heaven benchmark and Firestrike): 35c


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sh3perd*
> 
> My build is finally complete:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pics can be found
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/cAFmT
> 
> 
> So not sure what temps im supposed to be getting, but with push/pull, i think this case is great!
> 
> Max GPU temp with firestrike:
> 
> 
> Max CPU temp doing stress test:
> 
> 
> For those on their ipads/phones:
> Intel 6850k: overclocked to 4.3Ghz with vcore at 1.25, and VCCIN at 1.900v.
> Testing was done with an ambient room temp of 23c.
> idle temps: ~24c
> Max temp under load (using Prime95 stress test): 60
> 
> Nvidia Titan Pascal X:
> Idle temp: ~23c
> Max temp under load (using Unique heaven benchmark and Firestrike): 35c


Amazing temps. Is that with the glass installed? What fan speeds?


----------



## Sh3perd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Amazing temps. Is that with the glass installed? What fan speeds?


That is with all glass panels and top/front covers installed. Fan speeds at testing are curved for anything over 55c to be at 80% PWM.

Fan curve for 100% starts at 65c


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sh3perd*
> 
> Intel 6850k: overclocked to 4.3Ghz with vcore at 1.25, and VCCIN at 1.900v.
> Testing was done with an ambient room temp of 23c.
> idle temps: ~24c
> Max temp under load (using Prime95 stress test): 60
> 
> Nvidia Titan Pascal X:
> Idle temp: ~23c
> Max temp under load (using Unique heaven benchmark and Firestrike): 35c


GPU temp at ambient? So, 100% absolute heat transfer from GPU and CPU to TIM, TIM to blocks, blocks to liquid and liquid to air? I would have to think your thermometer measuring your ambient is off a bit. But temps look great even if your room was a bit cooler than indicated.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sh3perd*
> 
> My build is finally complete:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pics can be found
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/cAFmT
> 
> 
> So not sure what temps im supposed to be getting, but with push/pull, i think this case is great!
> 
> Max GPU temp with firestrike:
> 
> 
> Max CPU temp doing stress test:
> 
> 
> For those on their ipads/phones:
> Intel 6850k: overclocked to 4.3Ghz with vcore at 1.25, and VCCIN at 1.900v.
> Testing was done with an ambient room temp of 23c.
> idle temps: ~24c
> Max temp under load (using Prime95 stress test): 60
> 
> Nvidia Titan Pascal X:
> Idle temp: ~23c
> Max temp under load (using Unique heaven benchmark and Firestrike): 35c


Look great and good temps!

I agree with ciarlatano, your room temp and compoent temps are not balanced / equal. Either your component idle temps are inaccurate at idle or your room thermometer is inaccurate. It is not uncommon for compnent idle temps to be inaccurate.







Even at idle components are a couple degrees warmer than air.

Your build is a good example of why I keep questioning @Brando465 about his airflow and fan setup for top radiator. While you have done a very nice job, your temps are in the normal range o others have using the Evolv ATX case get .. Brando46's are not.








Considering that so many of us get results similar to yours (temps, but often not as nice a build job) proves the case does flow enough air when setup properly.


----------



## Sh3perd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> GPU temp at ambient? So, 100% absolute heat transfer from GPU and CPU to TIM, TIM to blocks, blocks to liquid and liquid to air? I would have to think your thermometer measuring your ambient is off a bit. But temps look great even if your room was a bit cooler than indicated.


we keep the house AC set at 73F, so that is what I took. I didnt bother to measure the room itself, since truthfully i didnt care enough about it that much. My goals were more set at what the max temp is. However, in the pursuit of science, I think i have a temp sensor buried in my tools somewhere. Ill dig it out and get more accurate readings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Look great and good temps!
> 
> I agree with ciarlatano, your room temp and compoent temps are not balanced / equal. Either your component idle temps are inaccurate at idle or your room thermometer is inaccurate. It is not uncommon for compnent idle temps to be inaccurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even at idle components are a couple degrees warmer than air.
> 
> Your build is a good example of why I keep questioning @Brando465 about his airflow and fan setup for top radiator. While you have done a very nice job, your temps are in the normal range o others have using the Evolv ATX case get .. Brando46's are not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Considering that so many of us get results similar to yours (temps, but often not as nice a build job) proves the case does flow enough air when setup properly.


I think my saving grace is putting it in push/pull at the top. The greater air flow forces the air out.

I will also do a test with the front panel and top panel removed to see if/ how much the temperatures differentiate.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sh3perd*
> 
> I think my saving grace is putting it in push/pull at the top. The greater air flow forces the air out.
> 
> I will also do a test with the front panel and top panel removed to see if/ how much the temperatures differentiate.


From what we have seen, you are actually likely hindering performance by running push/pull up top. In almost all of the tests we have seen, removing the top fans yields better results since they have a huge negative impact on airflow due to being crammed against the top. That....and the fact that 30mm thick rads don't really benefit from push/pull in the first place. That appears to be a 360 GTS, which only bumps from 362 to 380w dissipation capability at highest speeds in an ideal environment.


----------



## nycgtr

Those temps look to unreal for this case and your ambient. We have very similar components being cooled. In my case a 5960x and a titan xp. While you have 2 360s vs my 280 and 240 your temps should be better but max load of 35c is just not possible in this case imo. While your fan curve is way more aggressive than mine I still don't see it being possible. However, I am at the same time aware that I may need to make some changes to better my temps.

I run my front fans at idle 1250 to 1750 rpm under load
Top fans 1080rpm idle top 1260 under load
Exhaust fan 750 to 1200.

With the lids on vs off. I have a 5-6c difference after 1hr load. My cpu is at 1.3v and my txp is at 118% power target hitting 2100s under load.

Ambient is 74F to 80F depending on how much they jack up the heating.

Idle temps for gpu 37c load temps after 1hr valley loop pegged at 99% gpu peaks out around 55-57c depending on my ambient.
Cpu 100% load will bring me up to avg 68c across cores.


----------



## Sh3perd

So I just did a quick test with the top and front off.

Here is the setup:


Note that i left the glass panels on, and also removed the filter in the front.

HeavenBench is pretty straight forward with the results:


I tried to take a picture with the phone since printscrn wasnt registering but it just hovered between 31-32c the entire test:

Basically max temp was 32c for the test.

Now onto prime95. To preface, when doing this, I select small FFT's for max heat output:

Please note that I started the test at 6:52, and only let it run until 7:15 so not much time,
It registered max temp of 58c at 6:53, and past that, it did not climb.
However, I dun goofed though and started realtemp after the test, so the min is not to be trusted!

So there you have it: this case restricts temps. Though all in all, I am satisfied with the outcome, and the temp delta doesnt bother me enough to make a change. Now I am going to play skyrim till my eyes pop out.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sh3perd*
> 
> So there you have it: this case restricts temps. Though all in all, I am satisfied with the outcome, and the temp delta doesnt bother me enough to make a change. Now I am going to play skyrim till my eyes pop out.


And you have made it more moreso by putting fans where they don't belong to cause an even more restrictive environment.....


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sh3perd*
> 
> we keep the house AC set at 73F, so that is what I took. I didnt bother to measure the room itself, since truthfully i didnt care enough about it that much. My goals were more set at what the max temp is. However, in the pursuit of science, I think i have a temp sensor buried in my tools somewhere. Ill dig it out and get more accurate readings.
> I think my saving grace is putting it in push/pull at the top. The greater air flow forces the air out.
> 
> I will also do a test with the front panel and top panel removed to see if/ how much the temperatures differentiate.


The more accurate the temperauture reading are the better.

NO! It is not "the greater airflow forces the air out." It is the fact that your fans have higher pressure ratings. The difference between the pressure on intake side of fan and on the exhaust side of fan is almost doubled with push/pull on a radiator. The resistance is not just the radiator but also the vent area and vent grill resistance.

For example, let us assume we have fans with a (static) pressure rating of 2.0mm H20 and 50cfm free airflow rating. The fan can move 50cfm of airflow with absolutely no resistance, but when it reaches 2.0mm of resistance it move no air at all .. static = stopped .. nothing moving.

Now if we put one on a radiator with 1.0mm of resistance the fan will move about 25cfm of air at full speed. (this is a guess that if fan only has 1/2 of it's pressure rating to use that it will flow about 1/2 of it's airflow rating). If the case venting has 1.0mm of resistance we have as much resistance as fan can overcome .. we have no airflow. The fan's maximum ability to overcome resistance is the same as the radiator and vents / vent grill resistance.

Now if we put a 2nd fan on other side of radiator (radiator straights air between fans) we get another 2mm of resistance. This stacking of fans with a straightener does not increase the unrestricted airlfow rating of the fan at all. They can still only flow 50cfm, but their resistance rating is now 4cfm (only a guess).. But this increase in resistance rating means fans are only working against 1/2 of their total resistance rating and will flow 25cfm from inside of case through radiator and then through vents and grills.

The pressure and airflow numbers used in above explanation are not accurate. It is only to help you get an idea of how airflow and resistance work. It's a P/Q curve thing. Pressure versus quantity .. pressure = resistance quantity = airflow. The link below has P/Q charts that show some fans pressure rating to airflow graphs.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22644574

While it is kind of a hard concept to explain, once you understand it the concept becomes quite simple. But it is still quite hard to apply and get the desired results.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> And you have made it more moreso by putting fans where they don't belong to cause an even more restrictive environment.....


While this placement is indeed creating more restriction, stacking the fans with the radiator between them straightening the airflow is also increasing the fans' ability to overcome that resistance .. probably more than the resistance they are creating with the desired reslut of better airflow through the compbined resistance of radiator and case venting.

It's like the 20mm spacing versus the 40mm spacing in the above drawing of 2x 140mm fans and how the 20mm is restricting the bottom intake airflow. Only difference is here we are talking fan exhaust airflow.

The fans are below the top steel frame panel of case, so we still have the space 17mm of space between that steel panel and the aluminum top cover for the air to flow out of top fan .. and while I like to see at least 30mm it is enough so the top fan is probably helping. What we have here is about the same amount of space between fans and aluminum as most cases have between the surface the set on and the bottom of cases where the PSU intake vent and other bottom intake vents are.

Easy way to find out would be for @Sh3perd to unplug the fans on top of radiator.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Easy way to find out would be for @Sh3perd to unplug the fans on top of radiator.


Simply unplugged, you would still have the same scenario essentially as the top fans would be acting as a funnel and still increasing the restriction. That would actually likely prove worse, as you would also be removing the added pressure.

Not to mention the fact that running the GTS in push/pull doesn't help it in the first place.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Simply unplugged, you would still have the same scenario essentially as the top fans would be acting as a funnel and still increasing the restriction. That would actually likely prove worse, as you would also be removing the added pressure.


That is a possibility. But the the space between top of radiator and top of case (aluminum cover) is not an unrestricted are. The top case frame is disrupting that flow area already with it being mostly the 3x 88x160mm rectangular openings as opposed to 3x 120mm fans being mounted under them. op case frame is not an unrestricted area.

Not the best comparison images, but I think you can see what I'm talking about.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Not to mention the fact that running the GTS in push/pull doesn't help it in the first place.


But we are not just talking about the benefit of push/pull on the radiator's resistance alone. We are talking about the combined resistance of radiator and top venting.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> But we are not just talking about the benefit of push/pull on the radiator's resistance alone. We are talking about the combined resistance of radiator and top venting.


You are. I'm talking about it being a waste of fans in general.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You are. I'm talking about it being a waste of fans in general.


What radiator and fans do you have in the top of your Evolv ATX?


----------



## nycgtr

Guys wanna offer any assistance my way on my temps lol


----------



## paskowitz

You may want to try some rad gaskets. I know with my noctua fans they make a slight difference. I'm also going to experiment with mounting the top rad off of the stock bracket BUT... not wedged up as high as it can go. Then seal it off from the main cavity. This should maximize the volume of the top air cavity, creating less resistance. Right now my plan is fishing line... LOL... but I'm looking into a 3D printed bracket that could be shared.

Not to say this discussion is irrelevant, but I kinda feel it should be rolled into the Owners Club thread.


----------



## Balsagna

Im comsidering this case, but from the sounds of it. Having rad fans on the roof is a bad idea for performance.
I also have a swiftech h360 x2 prestige and i cant mount them below to exaust because of the res if i recall (correct me if im wrong)

The only fans i will exchange are visible ones and will change them out with TT riiing ones (yes for looks only)

They dont perform or sound bad at all, infact they are quieter in my current case than the prestiges fans.....


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Im comsidering this case, but from the sounds of it. Having rad fans on the roof is a bad idea for performance.
> I also have a swiftech h360 x2 prestige and i cant mount them below to exaust because of the res if i recall (correct me if im wrong)
> 
> The only fans i will exchange are visible ones and will change them out with TT riiing ones (yes for looks only)
> 
> They dont perform or sound bad at all, infact they are quieter in my current case than the prestiges fans.....


It's not bad, it just requires some work. Done right you should have no "serious" problems.

Not my most recent build status, but you get the idea:


----------



## Balsagna

I have the h360 x2. The only place to mount it would be the top, right? I also cant mount all 3 fans on the underside of the rad because of the res


----------



## Sh3perd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Simply unplugged, you would still have the same scenario essentially as the top fans would be acting as a funnel and still increasing the restriction. That would actually likely prove worse, as you would also be removing the added pressure.
> 
> Not to mention the fact that running the GTS in push/pull doesn't help it in the first place.


Man, you are right! It is a waste, and I cant believe what i've done wasting all of those fans! And man! What was I thinking with that rad! Sheesh, talk about an inexperienced builder here.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Im comsidering this case, but from the sounds of it. Having rad fans on the roof is a bad idea for performance.


Some guys here bash a little hard, but it isnt a bad case in the least. Just look strictly at the data: if you will only put fans in the roof in regards to the top rad, then the temps will not be as good as them being in push.

As far as the case being restrictive, tests confirm that. Just look at a really quick one I did a few posts up. Personally, I dont think that a 2 degree difference for CPU and 3-4 deg difference for GPU is that big of a deal, especially for the temperatures I was already getting with the roof on.

But if you are looking to squeeze every inch of performance, then that is for you to decide on what you want to do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You are. I'm talking about it being a waste of fans in general.


Agree to disagree then. based on the lack of noise and the temps Im getting, I am glad for what I got, and it is in no way a waste.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Im comsidering this case, but from the sounds of it. Having rad fans on the roof is a bad idea for performance.
> I also have a swiftech h360 x2 prestige and i cant mount them below to exaust because of the res if i recall (correct me if im wrong)
> 
> The only fans i will exchange are visible ones and will change them out with TT riiing ones (yes for looks only)
> 
> They dont perform or sound bad at all, infact they are quieter in my current case than the prestiges fans.....


Mounting the fans on top of radiator is not the problem. The probem comes when trying to mount the fan on top of the radiator/fan mounting tray. If you look at an Evolv ATX case ou will see a removable radiator/fan tray, and as long as radiator and fans are mounted on the bottom of it all is good.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sh3perd*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My build is finally complete:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pics can be found
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/cAFmT
> 
> 
> So not sure what temps im supposed to be getting, but with push/pull, i think this case is great!
> 
> Max GPU temp with firestrike:
> 
> 
> Max CPU temp doing stress test:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those on their ipads/phones:
> Intel 6850k: overclocked to 4.3Ghz with vcore at 1.25, and VCCIN at 1.900v.
> Testing was done with an ambient room temp of 23c.
> idle temps: ~24c
> Max temp under load (using Prime95 stress test): 60
> 
> Nvidia Titan Pascal X:
> Idle temp: ~23c
> Max temp under load (using Unique heaven benchmark and Firestrike): 35c


Excellent results!


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> I have the h360 x2. The only place to mount it would be the top, right? I also cant mount all 3 fans on the underside of the rad because of the res


Unless you need the HDD space I would front mount it. You can still mount 1 HDD in the bottom.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

What are your water temps?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> I have the h360 x2. The only place to mount it would be the top, right? I also cant mount all 3 fans on the underside of the rad because of the res


I would have to check to be positive, but I think you can mount the 360 with fans on top of radiator to the radiator tray by installing the radiator screws through the radiator tray, fan and into radiator .. fans 'sandwiched between radiator tray and radiator.
Like this


http://www.overclock.net/t/1598395/swiftech-h320-x2-prestige-blue-dye-supposed-to-look-so-pale-light/0_20


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I would have to check to be positive, but I think you can mount the 360 with fans on top of radiator to the radiator tray by installing the radiator screws through the radiator tray, fan and into radiator .. fans 'sandwiched between radiator tray and radiator.
> Like this
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1598395/swiftech-h320-x2-prestige-blue-dye-supposed-to-look-so-pale-light/0_20


If he did it, then i know i can as well. Though i am not a huge fan of how that actually looks....


----------



## Steely_Probiscis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> If he did it, then i know i can as well. Though i am not a huge fan of how that actually looks....


You can mount a 360 in the front. You've got approx 110mm in the floor cut out and you can still mount 2 HDDs on the floor.



Not sure how thick the pump section of h320 is?

If you're only going with one rad I would put in the front if you can work the tubing runs OK. You'll be pulling cool air over the rad and you've then got the all the options on rear and top mounts to balance out exhaust as you need.

I have mine this way - GTS360 - as I only watercool my CPU.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sh3perd*
> 
> Man, you are right! It is a waste, and I cant believe what i've done wasting all of those fans! And man! What was I thinking with that rad! Sheesh, talk about an inexperienced builder here.


While your inexperience does show, it's in the same ways that most new to water cooling err, and it is only because much of it is counterintuitive to basic assumptions you see when air cooling. And the odd specifics of the Evolv ATX tend to magnify the the effects of those assumptions. Take for example the push/pull. You chose what is arguably the best all around rad on the market in the GTS when size and flexibility, low speed performance and overall performance are taken into consideration. It would only be natural to assume that push/pull would make it even better. But, when you break it down into the science on slim, low fpi rads that are extremely efficient, you find that adding the second set of fans has little (and no perceivable) effect on performance, as is clearly shown in the test results I posted previously. Then, it gets compounded by the oddity of the Evolv top and airflow, which leaves the top fans just a few mm from a solid surface and blowing right at it (which is why Phanteks did not include fan mounts there in the design).

Unfortunately, there is always the assumption that "more is better" which simply isn't the case when it comes to airflow, or for rads for that matter, where we see less experienced builders using 60+mm thick rads for low speed fan applications. While, yes, there are a lot of first time builders here, you also have a lot of industry people on OCN you can learn from. You just need to absorb the info and learn from, as counterintuitive as some of it seems - i.e. @doyll forever explaining the difference of air_flow_ and air_blow_.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> While your inexperience does show, it's in the same ways that most new to water cooling err, and it is only because much of it is counterintuitive to basic assumptions you see when air cooling. And the odd specifics of the Evolv ATX tend to magnify the the effects of those assumptions. Take for example the push/pull. You chose what is arguably the best all around rad on the market in the GTS when size and flexibility, low speed performance and overall performance are taken into consideration. It would only be natural to assume that push/pull would make it even better. But, when you break it down into the science on slim, low fpi rads that are extremely efficient, you find that adding the second set of fans has little (and no perceivable) effect on performance, as is clearly shown in the test results I posted previously. Then, it gets compounded by the oddity of the Evolv top and airflow, which leaves the top fans just a few mm from a solid surface and blowing right at it (which is why Phanteks did not include fan mounts there in the design).
> 
> Unfortunately, there is always the assumption that "more is better" which simply isn't the case when it comes to airflow, or for rads for that matter, where we see less experienced builders using 60+mm thick rads for low speed fan applications. While, yes, there are a lot of first time builders here, you also have a lot of industry people on OCN you can learn from. You just need to absorb the info and learn from, as counterintuitive as some of it seems - i.e. @doyll forever explaining the difference of air_flow_ and air_blow_.


I don't know man, he has the coldest Evolv ATX so far. Even beats my "first timer" build.


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I don't know man, he has the coldest Evolv ATX so far. Even beats my "first timer" build.


Sometimes science just doesnt really matter. A physicist i work with can science the **** out of any of this, but he wont because then its all synthetics, or doesnt really matter much anyways. You can throw in all the science you want on a "best setup" or better fans or rads and bla bla bla.

When your room temperature in a lot of houses will drastically change your result so that its moot anyways. I remember a rather big argument regarding my riing fans. Well, while i know they arent supposed to be better than my prestige fans cause of science, they also do.... because of science lol

Tldr.

Unless youre a genius and science this stuff for a living, it doesnt matter


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Sometimes science just doesnt really matter. A physicist i work with can science the **** out of any of this, but he wont because then its all synthetics, or doesnt really matter much anyways. You can throw in all the science you want on a "best setup" or better fans or rads and bla bla bla.
> 
> When your room temperature in a lot of houses will drastically change your result so that its moot anyways. I remember a rather big argument regarding my riing fans. Well, while i know they arent supposed to be better than my prestige fans cause of science, they also do.... because of science lol
> 
> Tldr.
> 
> Unless youre a genius and science this stuff for a living, it doesnt matter


Exactly. And it doesn't make sense when people argue with results. It goes against science.


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> From what we have seen, you are actually likely hindering performance by running push/pull up top. In almost all of the tests we have seen, removing the top fans yields better results since they have a huge negative impact on airflow due to being crammed against the top. That....and the fact that 30mm thick rads don't really benefit from push/pull in the first place. That appears to be a 360 GTS, which only bumps from 362 to 380w dissipation capability at highest speeds in an ideal environment.


My 360 is literally last on the list..... I'm guessing that will have a big part in my temps.


----------



## Brando465

I played around with the fan curves and temps seem to be a bit better.

Ambient 22 C

CPU
i5 2500k
4.2ghz
1.26 v
Idle 35 C
Load 59 c
Fans 82%

GFX
R9 290
Idle 36 C
Load 68 C
Fans 82%

In BF1 temps are:
65 CPU
59 GPU


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> I played around with the fan curves and temps seem to be a bit better.
> 
> Ambient 22 C
> 
> CPU
> i5 2500k
> 4.2ghz
> 1.26 v
> Idle 35 C
> Load 59 c
> Fans 82%
> 
> GFX
> R9 290
> Idle 36 C
> Load 68 C
> Fans 82%
> 
> In BF1 temps are:
> 65 CPU
> 59 GPU


Is everything on a single 360SE? Are you monitoring liquid temp at all?

Also, I'm kind of confused. You show the CPU at 59C under load, but at 65C playing BF. What are you using for load temp?


----------



## Skizzy34

Ok, so I just switched into this Evolv, coming from larger cases like the Primo. My temps have always been pretty decent until moving everything into this case. I'm not sure if it's how I have the air flow set up or it being just a compact case. I know the radiator in front having the fans push into the case isn't ideal, so would it be better to have the top fans work as intakes and use the front and back as exhaust? What will that do with hot air rising? Would it still work?

This is my Z97 system, so it's only a temporary build right now. I plan to upgrade it soon, but now I'm not so sure I want to use this case again. It's beautiful, but really restrictive for custom loops. I couldn't fit my 360 slim read in the top, because it interfered with the res/pump, so I went with the smaller, thicker rad in front.

My temps shoot up to about 50-55 as it's booting, then even out to around 30-31 while idle. During gaming, the highest I saw was 67, but after quitting the game, it was like the hot air couldn't be removed, and even at idle it stayed at around 41-45. It's winter here where I live so the ambient tremors aren't high.

I'm used to mid 20s on idle and when quitting a game, back down to the same 20s on idle.

Any suggestions? I posted a pic of my air flow. I've built better loops btw lol. This was just a quick build to get it up and running for class work. I used the old water cooling parts from previous builds.

-Scott


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skizzy34*
> 
> Ok, so I just switched into this Evolv, coming from larger cases like the Primo. My temps have always been pretty decent until moving everything into this case. I'm not sure if it's how I have the air flow set up or it being just a compact case. I know the radiator in front having the fans push into the case isn't ideal, so would it be better to have the top fans work as intakes and use the front and back as exhaust? What will that do with hot air rising? Would it still work?
> 
> This is my Z97 system, so it's only a temporary build right now. I plan to upgrade it soon, but now I'm not so sure I want to use this case again. It's beautiful, but really restrictive for custom loops. I couldn't fit my 360 slim read in the top, because it interfered with the res/pump, so I went with the smaller, thicker rad in front.
> 
> My temps shoot up to about 50-55 as it's booting, then even out to around 30-31 while idle. During gaming, the highest I saw was 67, but after quitting the game, it was like the hot air couldn't be removed, and even at idle it stayed at around 41-45. It's winter here where I live so the ambient tremors aren't high.
> 
> I'm used to mid 20s on idle and when quitting a game, back down to the same 20s on idle.
> 
> Any suggestions? I posted a pic of my air flow. I've built better loops btw lol. This was just a quick build to get it up and running for class work. I used the old water cooling parts from previous builds.
> 
> -Scott


Mount pump/res externally to the rear of the case and add pull fans to the front rad.

Add spacers to front panel to allow more airflow.


----------



## Skizzy34

Thanks for the suggestions. Anything I could do without removing parts? Lol. I don't like the look of the res on the outside.


----------



## nycgtr

I came from the primo and I know your pain. Thing's don't just cool down lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skizzy34*
> 
> Ok, so I just switched into this Evolv, coming from larger cases like the Primo. My temps have always been pretty decent until moving everything into this case. I'm not sure if it's how I have the air flow set up or it being just a compact case. I know the radiator in front having the fans push into the case isn't ideal, so would it be better to have the top fans work as intakes and use the front and back as exhaust? What will that do with hot air rising? Would it still work?
> 
> This is my Z97 system, so it's only a temporary build right now. I plan to upgrade it soon, but now I'm not so sure I want to use this case again. It's beautiful, but really restrictive for custom loops. I couldn't fit my 360 slim read in the top, because it interfered with the res/pump, so I went with the smaller, thicker rad in front.
> 
> My temps shoot up to about 50-55 as it's booting, then even out to around 30-31 while idle. During gaming, the highest I saw was 67, but after quitting the game, it was like the hot air couldn't be removed, and even at idle it stayed at around 41-45. It's winter here where I live so the ambient tremors aren't high.
> 
> I'm used to mid 20s on idle and when quitting a game, back down to the same 20s on idle.
> 
> Any suggestions? I posted a pic of my air flow. I've built better loops btw lol. This was just a quick build to get it up and running for class work. I used the old water cooling parts from previous builds.
> 
> -Scott


I also came from the primo. The temps are going to disappoint. I also have your problem of the case not being able to cool down completely. I like the way it looks but also regret it. Since you still have sli stick with the primo, or look at the new lian li pc-o11. If you really wanted a tempered glass case from phanteks you can consider the elite it's a smaller primo with much better cooling than the evolv. I might switch to the pc-o11 and I've owned my evolv for less than 2weeks.


----------



## Skizzy34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I came from the primo and I know your pain. Thing's don't just cool down lol.
> I also came from the primo. The temps are going to disappoint. I also have your problem of the case not being able to cool down completely. I like the way it looks but also regret it. Since you still have sli stick with the primo, or look at the new lian li pc-o11. If you really wanted a tempered glass case from phanteks you can consider the elite it's a smaller primo with much better cooling than the evolv. I might switch to the pc-o11 and I've owned my evolv for less than 2weeks.


That sucks. =/

Yea, the Lian Li PC-07s is my favorite case design, but it's so expensive. I'll check out the 011. I don't really like the look of the Elite. It's $900 and it doesn't look that premium in my opinion. I was also looking at the InWin 909. It seems like a pretty nice case to build in.

I would go back to the Primo, but it's the white one and I painted all the black parts red. It looks really good, but isn't back to a black case to match the test of the equipment on my desk. It also doesn't have a many of the newer features as recent cases, and unless you remove that front panel thing inside the case, it's still kinda cramped to build in


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skizzy34*
> 
> Ok, so I just switched into this Evolv, coming from larger cases like the Primo. My temps have always been pretty decent until moving everything into this case. I'm not sure if it's how I have the air flow set up or it being just a compact case. I know the radiator in front having the fans push into the case isn't ideal, so would it be better to have the top fans work as intakes and use the front and back as exhaust? What will that do with hot air rising? Would it still work?
> 
> This is my Z97 system, so it's only a temporary build right now. I plan to upgrade it soon, but now I'm not so sure I want to use this case again. It's beautiful, but really restrictive for custom loops. I couldn't fit my 360 slim read in the top, because it interfered with the res/pump, so I went with the smaller, thicker rad in front.
> 
> My temps shoot up to about 50-55 as it's booting, then even out to around 30-31 while idle. During gaming, the highest I saw was 67, but after quitting the game, it was like the hot air couldn't be removed, and even at idle it stayed at around 41-45. It's winter here where I live so the ambient tremors aren't high.
> 
> I'm used to mid 20s on idle and when quitting a game, back down to the same 20s on idle.
> 
> Any suggestions? I posted a pic of my air flow. I've built better loops btw lol. This was just a quick build to get it up and running for class work. I used the old water cooling parts from previous builds.
> 
> -Scott


You should be able to mount the res inside the case right next to the SLI bridge / pcie slots (there is a res Mount right there). Considering you would be adding the rad, you would have to redo your runs anyway.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skizzy34*
> 
> That sucks. =/
> 
> Yea, the Lian Li PC-07s is my favorite case design, but it's so expensive. I'll check out the 011. I don't really like the look of the Elite. It's $900 and it doesn't look that premium in my opinion. I was also looking at the InWin 909. It seems like a pretty nice case to build in.
> 
> I would go back to the Primo, but it's the white one and I painted all the black parts red. It looks really good, but isn't back to a black case to match the test of the equipment on my desk. It also doesn't have a many of the newer features as recent cases, and unless you remove that front panel thing inside the case, it's still kinda cramped to build in


I meant the enthoo luxe tempered its 189 it cost less than the evolv. The pc-o11 is 230 at newegg.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> You should be able to mount the res inside the case right next to the SLI bridge / pcie slots (there is a res Mount right there). Considering you would be adding the rad, you would have to redo your runs anyway.


I have that pump/res combo as well. It wont fit there, unless your willing to loose the rear fan and use ref size gpus.


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Is everything on a single 360SE? Are you monitoring liquid temp at all?
> 
> Also, I'm kind of confused. You show the CPU at 59C under load, but at 65C playing BF. What are you using for load temp?


SE360 up top and a PE 240 in the front. I also don't understand why the CPU is hotter in game. Probable because its after the GPU in the loop.
The temps given was using Prime 95 and FurMark. I have nothing to monitor the liquid temps.


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skizzy34*
> 
> Ok, so I just switched into this Evolv, coming from larger cases like the Primo. My temps have always been pretty decent until moving everything into this case. I'm not sure if it's how I have the air flow set up or it being just a compact case. I know the radiator in front having the fans push into the case isn't ideal, so would it be better to have the top fans work as intakes and use the front and back as exhaust? What will that do with hot air rising? Would it still work?
> 
> This is my Z97 system, so it's only a temporary build right now. I plan to upgrade it soon, but now I'm not so sure I want to use this case again. It's beautiful, but really restrictive for custom loops. I couldn't fit my 360 slim read in the top, because it interfered with the res/pump, so I went with the smaller, thicker rad in front.
> 
> My temps shoot up to about 50-55 as it's booting, then even out to around 30-31 while idle. During gaming, the highest I saw was 67, but after quitting the game, it was like the hot air couldn't be removed, and even at idle it stayed at around 41-45. It's winter here where I live so the ambient tremors aren't high.
> 
> I'm used to mid 20s on idle and when quitting a game, back down to the same 20s on idle.
> 
> Any suggestions? I posted a pic of my air flow. I've built better loops btw lol. This was just a quick build to get it up and running for class work. I used the old water cooling parts from previous builds.
> 
> -Scott


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I came from the primo and I know your pain. Thing's don't just cool down lol.
> I also came from the primo. The temps are going to disappoint. I also have your problem of the case not being able to cool down completely. I like the way it looks but also regret it. Since you still have sli stick with the primo, or look at the new lian li pc-o11. If you really wanted a tempered glass case from phanteks you can consider the elite it's a smaller primo with much better cooling than the evolv. I might switch to the pc-o11 and I've owned my evolv for less than 2weeks.


Looks like we are all struggling with the same issue.....
Scott have you tried sealing up the removable rad mount to stop hot air looping back down?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I came from the primo and I know your pain. Thing's don't just cool down lol.
> I also came from the primo. The temps are going to disappoint. I also have your problem of the case not being able to cool down completely. I like the way it looks but also regret it. Since you still have sli stick with the primo, or look at the new lian li pc-o11. If you really wanted a tempered glass case from phanteks you can consider the elite it's a smaller primo with much better cooling than the evolv. I might switch to the pc-o11 and I've owned my evolv for less than 2weeks.


You need to know what you are talking about before you open your mouth.
Enthoo Elite is . 270 mm x 750 mm x 615 mm (W x H x D)
Enthoo Primo is 250mm x 650mm x 600mm
*Elite is bigger by 20mm x 100mm x 15mm* That is a big difference in size .. and definitely not smaller!

Not only is Elite significantly bigger, but also more than 3 1/2 times more expensive!
Elite costs . $899.99
Primo costs $249.99
*Difference $650.00*

No idea what case you were thinking of, but Enthoo Elite is the biggest case Phanteks makes.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skizzy34*
> 
> Ok, so I just switched into this Evolv, coming from larger cases like the Primo. My temps have always been pretty decent until moving everything into this case. I'm not sure if it's how I have the air flow set up or it being just a compact case. I know the radiator in front having the fans push into the case isn't ideal, so would it be better to have the top fans work as intakes and use the front and back as exhaust? What will that do with hot air rising? Would it still work?
> 
> This is my Z97 system, so it's only a temporary build right now. I plan to upgrade it soon, but now I'm not so sure I want to use this case again. It's beautiful, but really restrictive for custom loops. I couldn't fit my 360 slim read in the top, because it interfered with the res/pump, so I went with the smaller, thicker rad in front.
> 
> My temps shoot up to about 50-55 as it's booting, then even out to around 30-31 while idle. During gaming, the highest I saw was 67, but after quitting the game, it was like the hot air couldn't be removed, and even at idle it stayed at around 41-45. It's winter here where I live so the ambient tremors aren't high.
> 
> I'm used to mid 20s on idle and when quitting a game, back down to the same 20s on idle.
> 
> Any suggestions? I posted a pic of my air flow. I've built better loops btw lol. This was just a quick build to get it up and running for class work. I used the old water cooling parts from previous builds.
> 
> -Scott


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skizzy34*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions. Anything I could do without removing parts? Lol. I don't like the look of the res on the outside.


Did you block all unused opening in the radiator mounting tray?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skizzy34*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions. Anything I could do without removing parts? Lol. I don't like the look of the res on the outside.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I came from the primo and I know your pain. Thing's don't just cool down lol.
> I also came from the primo. The temps are going to disappoint. I also have your problem of the case not being able to cool down completely. I like the way it looks but also regret it. Since you still have sli stick with the primo, or look at the new lian li pc-o11. If you really wanted a tempered glass case from phanteks you can consider the elite it's a smaller primo with much better cooling than the evolv. I might switch to the pc-o11 and I've owned my evolv for less than 2weeks.


Do you have the same system in your Evolv you had in your Primo?


----------



## Muldu

Hi,

Just wanted to share my build in the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX.

I'm using the Nemesis 360GTS XFLOW Radiator from HW-labs in the top and a 240GTS Radiator in the front.
Some hardtubing to connect everything.


----------



## Skizzy34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Did you block all unused opening in the radiator mounting tray?


I think all 3 of those fans cover it.

Edit: I see. I'll try covering the other smaller holes.


----------



## Skizzy34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I have that pump/res combo as well. It wont fit there, unless your willing to loose the rear fan and use ref size gpus.


Yup, tried it first before settling with this setup.


----------



## Skizzy34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Do you have the same system in your Evolv you had in your Primo?


Yea, I used a larger (250) res tho and an additional 360 rad.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I meant the enthoo luxe tempered its 189 it cost less than the evolv. The pc-o11 is 230 at newegg.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You need to know what you are talking about before you open your mouth.
> Enthoo Elite is . 270 mm x 750 mm x 615 mm (W x H x D)
> Enthoo Primo is 250mm x 650mm x 600mm
> *Elite is bigger by 20mm x 100mm x 15mm* That is a big difference in size .. and definitely not smaller!
> 
> Not only is Elite significantly bigger, but also more than 3 1/2 times more expensive!
> Elite costs . $899.99
> Primo costs $249.99
> *Difference $650.00*
> 
> No idea what case you were thinking of, but Enthoo Elite is the biggest case Phanteks makes.


If you notice my quote from my own post above yours. I corrected myself. I meant to say the luxe but was reading something on the elite and made a typo.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Do you have the same system in your Evolv you had in your Primo?


Yes it's the same system, with the 2 rads being the only change and a smaller reservoir.


----------



## Skizzy34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muldu*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Just wanted to share my build in the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX.
> 
> I'm using the Nemesis 360GTS XFLOW Radiator from HW-labs in the top and a 240GTS Radiator in the front.
> Some hardtubing to connect everything.


Damn, that's nice!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skizzy34*
> 
> I think all 3 of those fans cover it.
> 
> Edit: I see. I'll try covering the other smaller holes.


Yeah, you want no opening between in the tray at all. That is the only way to keep the heated air coming out of cooler from leaking back down into motherboard compartment.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> If you notice my quote from my own post above yours. I corrected myself. I meant to say the luxe but was reading something on the elite and made a typo.
> Yes it's the same system, with the 2 rads being the only change and a smaller reservoir.


I replied to your first post, not someting you posted later .. and even reading yor later post does not make it completely clear. Why don't you edit so it has correct information? That way someone won't read it and think you don't know what you are talking about.









So it's the same but different.








She's not really pregnat, only kinda pregnant.









To me changing radiators is about the same as changing air coolers.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skizzy34*
> 
> Yea, I used a larger (250) res tho and an additional 360 rad.


same here 250 to 150 and lost a 480. I just case transfered my wifes on air setup convereted to water in the primo using just the 480 top rad. Temps are amazing


----------



## Steely_Probiscis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muldu*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Just wanted to share my build in the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX.
> 
> I'm using the Nemesis 360GTS XFLOW Radiator from HW-labs in the top and a 240GTS Radiator in the front.
> Some hardtubing to connect everything.


Wow, that's beautiful.


----------



## Skizzy34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yeah, you want no opening between in the tray at all. That is the only way to keep the heated air coming out of cooler from leaking back down into motherboard compartment.
> I replied to your first post, not someting you posted later .. and even reading yor later post does not make it completely clear. Why don't you edit so it has correct information? That way someone won't read it and think you don't know what you are talking about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's the same but different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> She's not really pregnat, only kinda pregnant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To me changing radiators is about the same as changing air coolers.


The front rad pushing hot air in is what bothers me the most. That air is just pushing across the components and doesn't seem to be escaping, but I can see where that top tray can be bad.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skizzy34*
> 
> The front rad pushing hot air in is what bothers me the most. That air is just pushing across the components and doesn't seem to be escaping, but I can see where that top tray can be bad.


A 240mm front radiator is flowing the same amount of air as a 240 top radiator, so air comes in front, turns up and into top radiator and then out of case. Obviously optimum coolant flow would be from last heat source to top radiator and then to front radiator. This way warmer air is removing heat from warmest coolant first then fresh front intake air is cooling already partially cooled coolant.


----------



## Balsagna

Boy, this thread scares me. I might have to not get it if people are having this much trouble with cooling









Maybe I should just get the Elite, I have the budget for it, lol. Though, I don't think it's really worth the price over a Luxe or Pro in feature set. Really, it is just a more versatile case, but I don't really need versatility.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Boy, this thread scares me. I might have to not get it if people are having this much trouble with cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I should just get the Elite, I have the budget for it, lol. Though, I don't think it's really worth the price over a Luxe or Pro in feature set. Really, it is just a more versatile case, but I don't really need versatility.


Elite is not for the average user. For one thing it is extremely big, so unless you have the room don't even think about it. I've used some very big cases and for me something like the Enthoo Luxe, Pro, Pro M, Evolv ATX are about right.I have an Eclipse TG and like it but with only 160mm of CPU clearance it requires being careful about what cooler is selected .. I wish it had 170mm CPU clearance.

Honestly thee Evolv ATX is a great case. There are many happy users with both air and water cooling, but it does require more effort and knowledge to get the airflow working properly .. something most users do not pay attention to.

I suggest looking at the Evolv ATX builds that are running cool and quiet and select cooling components like they use. @ciarlatano has been using one for long time with no problems .. because he pays attention to airflow details.


----------



## Klosxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Elite is not for the average user. For one thing it is extremely big, so unless you have the room don't even think about it. I've used some very big cases and for me something like the Enthoo Luxe, Pro, Pro M, Evolv ATX are about right.I have an Eclipse TG and like it but with only 160mm of CPU clearance it requires being careful about what cooler is selected .. I wish it had 170mm CPU clearance.
> 
> Honestly thee Evolv ATX is a great case. There are many happy users with both air and water cooling, but it does require more effort and knowledge to get the airflow working properly .. something most users do not pay attention to.
> 
> I suggest looking at the Evolv ATX builds that are running cool and quiet and select cooling components like they use. @ciarlatano has been using one for long time with no problems .. because he pays attention to airflow details.


^ This. I love my Evolv ATX build, and have pretty solid cooling results (even without some of the "extras" in this thread... like I haven't plugged up the exposed spaces on the rad bracket).

All in all I've become a fan of Phantek cases, & would recommend to anyone. Don't let this thread throw you off, the Evolv ATX is a great case.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klosxe*
> 
> ^ This. I love my Evolv ATX build, and have pretty solid cooling results (even without some of the "extras" in this thread... like I haven't plugged up the exposed spaces on the rad bracket).
> 
> All in all I've become a fan of Phantek cases, & would recommend to anyone. Don't let this thread throw you off, the Evolv ATX is a great case.


+2

It takes some effort and common sense to get right, but it is possible to get well below a delta T of 10 with the Evolv ATX. Common mistakes are not (or inadequately) sealing off the top/front, using SE360 radiator (thin, inadequate), using small thick radiators, or placing an enormous reservior behind the front radiator.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> +2
> 
> It takes some effort and common sense to get right, but it is possible to get well below a delta T of 10 with the Evolv ATX. Common mistakes are not (or inadequately) sealing off the top/front, using SE360 radiator (thin, inadequate), using small thick radiators, or placing an enormous reservior behind the front radiator.


Reads like your listing all of my mistakes







. I have a top thick rad. Honestly, I can see the performance increase with a 360 vs 280. However, I don't feel a thin 360 at the top is really going make that huge of a difference. My ut60 fpi is fairly low and 2 140 fans at 1200 aren't very audible and get air thru quite well. I will try it though when I feel like redoing the bends. I think many of the people who may be disappointed, are those who came from larger setups.

I had a stupid bubble in my top rad that finally went away and my gpu now idles at 36-38c heavily oced and under load im getting like 53cish. I would say that if you were obsessed with temps this case will drive you mad. The one owner with the 35c underload is not plausible to me. I've only had something like that with a massive loop.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Reads like your listing all of my mistakes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have a top thick rad. Honestly, I can see the performance increase with a 360 vs 280. However, I don't feel a thin 360 at the top is really going make that huge of a difference. My ut60 fpi is fairly low and 2 140 fans at 1200 aren't very audible and get air thru quite well. I will try it though when I feel like redoing the bends. I think many of the people who may be disappointed, are those who came from larger setups.
> 
> I had a stupid bubble in my top rad that finally went away and my gpu now idles at 36-38c heavily oced and under load im getting like 53cish. I would say that if you were obsessed with temps this case will drive you mad. The one owner with the 35c underload is not plausible to me. I've only had something like that with a massive loop.


And those are very good temps. However, it is impossible to know how your loop is performing without knowing tbe water temperarure.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> And those are very good temps. However, it is impossible to know how your loop is performing without knowing tbe water temperarure.


I have an ir thermometer. Just it's not very easy to get access to opening my res. I actually have a bunch of fittings linked up just so I can fill it


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I have an ir thermometer. Just it's not very easy to get access to opening my res. I actually have a bunch of fittings linked up just so I can fill it


I didn't put much thought into the filling or draining part... Next time.

Do you think the res temps are representative of the flowing water?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I didn't put much thought into the filling or draining part... Next time.
> 
> Do you think the res temps are representative of the flowing water?


The inlet to my rad comes from the reservoir. I think point at the water surface is a good estimate. I could add a probe to the loop but I really don't feel to take the thing apart lol.



Just a little hard to get to.


----------



## paskowitz

It's totally feasible to get a 10c (<15c is average) water to ambient delta and a processor temp to water temp delta of 15-30c (GPU-CPU) in the Evolv ATX.

The water temps in my Evolv never go above 37c with 33-34c being the average under gaming load. That's with roughly a 17-20c ambient and <1300rpm fans. Average fan speed is ~800-1000rpm under load.

It should be a surprise that a case with a big lid on it isn't as good as one with a practical open top.


----------



## gerrardo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muldu*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Just wanted to share my build in the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX.
> 
> I'm using the Nemesis 360GTS XFLOW Radiator from HW-labs in the top and a 240GTS Radiator in the front.
> Some hardtubing to connect everything.


Hey Muldu great build! Would you mind PM'ing me some photos of the PSU compartment with the plumbing in it? I am considering doing something similar but have two mechanical HDD (for now) and wondering what it looks with your setup. Thanks!


----------



## Muldu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gerrardo*
> 
> Hey Muldu great build! Would you mind PM'ing me some photos of the PSU compartment with the plumbing in it? I am considering doing something similar but have two mechanical HDD (for now) and wondering what it looks with your setup. Thanks!


Thanks for the kind words









As soon as I get a chance I will surely take a picture for you. I don't think it will fit the HDD cage. Maybe if you flip the 240 rad in the front. And maybe not do the push/pull I have on the 240. But then the tube runs are going to be different









Because of the EK X-res pump/res combo, the pump is floating in the main champer, leaving the PSU champer more or less empty besides for the drain tube and wires.


----------



## gerrardo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muldu*
> 
> Thanks for the kind words
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As soon as I get a chance I will surely take a picture for you. I don't think it will fit the HDD cage. Maybe if you flip the 240 rad in the front. And maybe not do the push/pull I have on the 240. But then the tube runs are going to be different
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the EK X-res pump/res combo, the pump is floating in the main champer, leaving the PSU champer more or less empty besides for the drain tube and wires.


I realized after I posted that I had overlooked a few details







. Looking forward to seeing some more pictures, if anything just to better understand and plan! Agree that tubing would likely be different (not sure if I would do X flow or potentially run a 92MM rear fan to push the radiator back more) but with more examples from you creative folks I am hoping to get a better visual.


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> +2
> 
> It takes some effort and common sense to get right, but it is possible to get well below a delta T of 10 with the Evolv ATX. Common mistakes are not (or inadequately) sealing off the top/front, using SE360 radiator (thin, inadequate), using small thick radiators, or placing an enormous reservior behind the front radiator.


How close is close?
This is my rad and res mounting.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> How close is close?
> This is my rad and res mounting.


Do you have a water temp sensor?


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Do you have a water temp sensor?


No I do not :/


----------



## Brando465

In the middle of pulling apart my build now. Anyone have an idea what would cause this ?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> No I do not :/


We are still experimenting as a community with the Evolv ATX. Your individual results are worth more than an opinion at this point.


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> We are still experimenting as a community with the Evolv ATX. Your individual results are worth more than an opinion at this point.


Very true.

Tonight I changed the setup inside the case. I pulled the fans out of the roof and put them inside the case under the rad. So far running the same tests as I did 2 days ago I've dropped 3 C all round.
The funny part is that's only running 2 fans on my SE360. With a third I imagine it would drop more. I can't fit the third due to my 240. I will be looking at getting rid of my HDDs so then I can push the 240 down and put another fan in.

Looks like you may have been right @ciarlatano


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> How close is close?
> This is my rad and res mounting.


I would seriously consider redoing the bend from gpu to your drain valve. That looks like it's going to pop out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> In the middle of pulling apart my build now. Anyone have an idea what would cause this ?


Looks like plasticizer. What brand soft tubing are you using? Is that clear UV by any chance?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> It's totally feasible to get a 10c (<15c is average) water to ambient delta and a processor temp to water temp delta of 15-30c (GPU-CPU) in the Evolv ATX.
> 
> The water temps in my Evolv never go above 37c with 33-34c being the average under gaming load. That's with roughly a 17-20c ambient and <1300rpm fans. Average fan speed is ~800-1000rpm under load.
> 
> It should be a surprise that a case with a big lid on it isn't as good as one with a practical open top.


My results are very similar with a 4790K and 1070, both OC, on a single 360 GTS. Two F140SP as intake, three F120MP exhaust on the rad, all running at around 750 rpm. A little extra attention, and setting up the case the way it was designed, and the Evolv can easily provide adequate air flow. It isn't stellar, but it isn't bad by any stretch, either.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> My results are very similar with a 4790K and 1070, both OC, on a single 360 GTS. Two F140SP as intake, three F120MP exhaust on the rad, all running at around 750 rpm. A little extra attention, and setting up the case the way it was designed, and the Evolv can easily provide adequate air flow. It isn't stellar, but it isn't bad by any stretch, either.


I am pulling about ~450-515W from the wall under load. That is overclocked... but also 2 HDDs and 6 fans. IDK exact processor wattage, probably around 400W. Given that I have 560mm of rad (~55% more) I guess I could be doing a bit better. I am going eventually ditch my Noctua fans as I am not happy with their noise to performance ratio.

Overall, I think people over emphasis the amount of conversation around the thermals of the Evolv. The amount of people talking about a problem does not directly correlate to the severity of the problem. I mean hell, take any case with a non mesh/open top and it bet it will perform within 10% of the Evolv. Then again, go the Air 540 owners thread and people think the case is too noisy. Can't have it all.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> My results are very similar with a 4790K and 1070, both OC, on a single 360 GTS. Two F140SP as intake, three F120MP exhaust on the rad, all running at around 750 rpm. A little extra attention, and setting up the case the way it was designed, and the Evolv can easily provide adequate air flow. It isn't stellar, but it isn't bad by any stretch, either.


I've been contemplating doing a single 360 loop for both a CPU and GPU. I haven't found enough definitive evidence to say a single 360 isn't worth it for a first time loop when you don't want to spend more than €600 nor want cheap ugly components either.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> I've been contemplating doing a single 360 loop for both a CPU and GPU. I haven't found enough definitive evidence to say a single 360 isn't worth it for a first time loop when you don't want to spend more than €600 nor want cheap ugly components either.


I actually downsized my loop to a single 360, for the simple reason that it is all that is necessary to efficiently cool my components at low fan speeds. I came out of a Primo with an RX360 V3 and 280mm UT60. A few degrees difference, but that is all. And does it really matter if my CPU is 57C instead of 54C while rendering CAD? Of course not.


----------



## nycgtr

Was gonna buy a 360 and just use that, but then I thought about how I've gone thru swapping the top rad once already and how I'd have to redo my entire loop except 1 bend. NEVERMIND lol.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I actually downsized my loop to a single 360, for the simple reason that it is all that is necessary to efficiently cool my components at low fan speeds. I came out of a Primo with an RX360 V3 and 280mm UT60. A few degrees difference, but that is all. And does it really matter if my CPU is 57C instead of 54C while rendering CAD? Of course not.


Those that advise against a single 360 rarely ever post any performance comparisons proving their point. DazMode from YouTube is one of the only comparisons I've seen of a 240 vs a 360 vs a 480 vs a 600mm capacity radiator setup, and the differences were minimal. Yet 'enthusiasts' on here and other forums almost scoff at smaller setups. It does put a dampener on your confidence when it's confidence that is holding you back from plunging in.


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I would seriously consider redoing the bend from gpu to your drain valve. That looks like it's going to pop out.
> Looks like plasticizer. What brand soft tubing are you using? Is that clear UV by any chance?


Yeah i plan on redoing that one. Havent gotten around to it yet. Doesn't seem to leak.
And its hard tubing (PETG). Its from the coolant I'm using because it is also at the bottom of the bottle.
Anyone had this issue with Thermaltake C1000 Coolant?


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> I've been contemplating doing a single 360 loop for both a CPU and GPU. I haven't found enough definitive evidence to say a single 360 isn't worth it for a first time loop when you don't want to spend more than €600 nor want cheap ugly components either.


I've been cooling and oc'd 4690k and 980ti on a single predator 240 and it's been just fine. Moving to a custom loop with a single 360 which I suspect will be slightly better.


----------



## nycgtr

Guys so I have a ut 60 280 at the top of my case. In an attempt to get more air out the top faster. What do you guys think about something like a blower fan. The space I have sealed on the bracket can fit a blower fan there easily. My fans push out from beneath the radiator.



http://www.microcenter.com/product/284960/SB-F1_Fox-1_System_Blower

I'm thinking something like that. Remove the pci bracket mount it in the first slot on the radiator bracket. Seal up all the areas but leave the middle open for that blower fan to suck air. I feel it should help push air out the back of the top lid.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Guys so I have a ut 60 280 at the top of my case. In an attempt to get more air out the top faster. What do you guys think about something like a blower fan. The space I have sealed on the bracket can fit a blower fan there easily. My fans push out from beneath the radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.microcenter.com/product/284960/SB-F1_Fox-1_System_Blower
> 
> I'm thinking something like that. Remove the pci bracket mount it in the first slot on the radiator bracket. Seal up all the areas but leave the middle open for that blower fan to suck air. I feel it should help push air out the back of the top lid.


Too much pressure would build up inside the top chamber.


----------



## Balsagna

So, I get the case today and will be rebuilding from my TT case.

My idea is to put my H320X2 prestige in the front as intake only and then the top 3 fans and back fan will be RGB Riiing fans for all exhaust. What do you guys think of that? Should be adequate enough I believe. I'll have a few extra fans around that I can put in there if needed (if there's any location for them that is)

Thoughts?


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> So, I get the case today and will be rebuilding from my TT case.
> 
> My idea is to put my H320X2 prestige in the front as intake only and then the top 3 fans and back fan will be RGB Riiing fans for all exhaust. What do you guys think of that? Should be adequate enough I believe. I'll have a few extra fans around that I can put in there if needed (if there's any location for them that is)
> 
> Thoughts?


You'll end up running negative pressure with the 4 exhaust and 3 intake so might want to rethink that. It makes for a dusty machine if not filtered and cleaned often.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> You'll end up running negative pressure with the 4 exhaust and 3 intake so might want to rethink that. It makes for a dusty machine if not filtered and cleaned often.


Yeah, and top exhaust is very limited due to the lack of proper ventilation. I would do one rear exhaust and one top exhaust closest to the back.

I will say that the Evolv ATX is the most dust-proof case I've had. I run mine with negative pressure but dust buildup isn't bad. I only clean it about twice a month. I use dual 140mm front intakes and a rear exhaust, both of which are the stock fans, and then an EK Predator 240 exhausting on top with the stock Vardar fans.

I will switch to a big front radiator or a new case the next time I do a major upgrade though. Top exhaust raised my CPU temps a lot compared to my last case, even though my last case only had a Swiftech H140-X cooling the CPU.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> Yeah, and top exhaust is very limited due to the lack of proper ventilation. I would do one rear exhaust and one top exhaust closest to the back.
> 
> I will say that the Evolv ATX is the most dust-proof case I've had. I run mine with negative pressure but dust buildup isn't bad. I only clean it about twice a month. I use dual 140mm front intakes and a rear exhaust, both of which are the stock fans, and then an EK Predator 240 exhausting on top with the stock Vardar fans.
> 
> I will switch to a big front radiator or a new case the next time I do a major upgrade though. Top exhaust raised my CPU temps a lot compared to my last case, even though my last case only had a Swiftech H140-X cooling the CPU.


I assume you what the 3x rings in top for looks. Run them at very low speed and you will be okay.
Problem may be heated air from 320 not properly cooling components not being cooled by 320 loop.


----------



## shilent

Just got my Evolv ATX and wanted to post my results.

I have a Alphacool XT45 360 up top with 3x Swiftech Helix fans in a push config cooling both CPU and GPU. I have taped up all the unused open holes on the top radiator mount. The mesh on the top panel vents have been removed hoping to improve airflow.

On full load, removing the top panel improves my water temp by 9C, going from 46C to 37C.

Also, could someone tell me if my Phanteks PWM fan hub is working properly? The stock front 140mm fans speed range is so small. They only go from about 1100RPM to 1250RPM, even when manually setting the speed from lowest to max. From what I have found searching about the fan hub, this is normal. But what confuses me is, without a PWM signal, the fans do not spin at all, and the SATA power connector makes no difference if plugged in or not. Does this sound correct?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilent*
> 
> Just got my Evolv ATX and wanted to post my results.
> 
> I have a Alphacool XT45 360 up top with 3x Swiftech Helix fans in a push config cooling both CPU and GPU. I have taped up all the unused open holes on the top radiator mount. The mesh on the top panel vents have been removed hoping to improve airflow.
> 
> On full load, removing the top panel improves my water temp by 9C, going from 46C to 37C.
> 
> Also, could someone tell me if my Phanteks PWM fan hub is working properly? The stock front 140mm fans speed range is so small. They only go from about 1100RPM to 1250RPM, even when manually setting the speed from lowest to max. From what I have found searching about the fan hub, this is normal. But what confuses me is, without a PWM signal, the fans do not spin at all, and the SATA power connector makes no difference if plugged in or not. Does this sound correct?


Ditch that fan hub for a better one. I have a Silverstone 8 fan PWM hub (~$15) from Microcenter and the range is 400 to 1800 with my Asus motherboard. Best part is that the fan lights don't dim when I lower the fan speed. (Correction. See my post below)

Your water temp sounds high. Did you tape off the holes where the top radiator mount contacts the side of the case? The top chamber must be completely sealed.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry, but you do not know what you are talking about here. The Phanteks PWM fan hub is not a PWM fan hub. It is a PWM controlled hub that adjusts the voltage from SATA 12v into variable voltage for 3-pin fans, like the one that are in Evolv ATX.


I do not recall stating that the Phanteks fan hub is a PWM fan hub.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I do not recall stating that the Phanteks fan hub is a PWM fan hub.


True, you did not say it was a PWM hub, but you inferred that the Silverstone PWM hub would work by saying you have one.

Your exact words were:
"Ditch that fan hub for a better one. I have a Silverstone 8 fan PWM hub (~$15) from Microcenter and the range is 400 to 1800 with my Asus motherboard."
As in replace it with Silverstone PWM hub
And it is a real PWM hub and will not work with Phanteks case fans
So either you think your hub is not PWM, or that Phanteks fans are PWM, or that Phanteks fan hub is PWM.
And all three are incorrect.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> True, you did not say it was a PWM hub, but you inferred that the Silverstone PWM hub would work by saying you have one.
> 
> Your exact words were:
> "Ditch that fan hub for a better one. I have a Silverstone 8 fan PWM hub (~$15) from Microcenter and the range is 400 to 1800 with my Asus motherboard."
> As in replace it with Silverstone PWM hub
> And it is a real PWM hub and will not work with Phanteks case fans
> So either you think your hub is not PWM, or that Phanteks fans are PWM, or that Phanteks fan hub is PWM.
> And all three are incorrect.


Yes, I see my error. I neglected to mention that I am using 4 pin PWM fans. It wouldn't make sense to use a 4 pin hub with his 3 pin fans. Thanks for the correction.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Yes, I see my error. I neglected to mention that I am using 4 pin PWM fans. It wouldn't make sense to use a 4 pin hub with his 3 pin fans. Thanks for the correction.


Sorry, I was wrong in my original correction.








But if you had assumed the Phanteks PWM fan hub was actually a PWM fan hub you would have been one of may people who read the name and assumed it to be for PWM fans.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry, I was wrong in my original correction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if you had assumed the Phanteks PWM fan hub was actually a PWM fan hub you would have been one of may people who read the name and assumed it to be for PWM fans.


You've confused me now as well...

From the PWM Hub manual:
Quote:


> 1 motherboard connector can only read 1 RPM signal. Therefore, the motherboard will only read the RPM signal from 1
> device connected to Fan 1. The RPM form all other devices will be regulated according to FAN 1. Y-splitter should not be
> connected to FAN 1.


Are you saying the PWM Hub does not split the PWM signal from your motherboard into 6 fan headers and control the rate of them?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry, I was wrong in my original correction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if you had assumed the Phanteks PWM fan hub was actually a PWM fan hub you would have been one of may people who read the name and assumed it to be for PWM fans.


And it doesn't help that Phanteks calls it a PWM hub.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> And it doesn't help that Phanteks calls it a PWM hub.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> You've confused me now as well...
> 
> From the PWM Hub manual:
> Are you saying the PWM Hub does not split the PWM signal from your motherboard into 6 fan headers and control the rate of them?


The quote from Phanteks manual is correct.

The Phanteks PWM fan hub is not a PWM fan hub and does not split the PWM signal from source (motherboard) header to the hub headers. The Phanteks hub has 3-pin headers, not 4-pin headers.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> And it doesn't help that Phanteks calls it a PWM hub.


It's something I have said many times myself.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The quote from Phanteks manual is correct.
> 
> The Phanteks PWM fan hub is not a PWM fan hub and does not split the PWM signal from source (motherboard) header to the hub headers. The Phanteks hub has 3-pin headers, not 4-pin headers.
> It's something I have said many times myself.


Gotcha.







Just needed that one clearing up.


----------



## shilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Your water temp sounds high. Did you tape off the holes where the top radiator mount contacts the side of the case? The top chamber must be completely sealed.


The water temps got to 47C running Prime95 and Heaven. During gaming, it's usually 35C.

I've taped up as much as possible on the radiator mounting bracket, including those two weird openings. I did not add any more tape once the radiator mounting bracket was in place. There's still a few small openings that I'd rather not tape up.

As for fan control, I'm just going to buy another PWM splitter and replace the two front stock fans with three 120mm PWM fans. Too bad, I liked the idea of the included fan hub and using the stock fans.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilent*
> 
> The water temps got to 47C running Prime95 and Heaven. During gaming, it's usually 35C.
> 
> I've taped up as much as possible on the radiator mounting bracket, including those two weird openings. I did not add any more tape once the radiator mounting bracket was in place. There's still a few small openings that I'd rather not tape up.
> 
> As for fan control, I'm just going to buy another PWM splitter and replace the two front stock fans with three 120mm PWM fans. Too bad, I liked the idea of the included fan hub and using the stock fans.


35C during gaming is good. What is room temp?

Who cares what your extreme benchmarking temps are? You'll never see that kind of stress during gaming.


----------



## shilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> 35C during gaming is good. What is room temp?
> 
> Who cares what your extreme benchmarking temps are? You'll never see that kind of stress during gaming.


Room temp is about 70F/21C.

I'm good with my temps, I just wanted to share my results with the top panel off vs on.


----------



## paskowitz

What RPM are your fans? That water temp is a bit on the high side. With my 2x 280mm of rad I can keep below 37c water temp with <1000rpm. Make sure you try resting the top on the clips if you haven't already.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> What RPM are your fans? That water temp is a bit on the high side. With my 2x 280mm of rad I can keep below 37c water temp with <1000rpm. Make sure you try resting the top on the clips if you haven't already.


Keep in mind, he has about half the radiator you do. And the 46 C is while running both Prime95 and Heaven, not normal gaming or a realistic stress test like Realbench or Fire Strike. That's like towing a yacht at wide open throttle and complaining that your engine is running warm.


----------



## shilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> What RPM are your fans? That water temp is a bit on the high side. With my 2x 280mm of rad I can keep below 37c water temp with <1000rpm. Make sure you try resting the top on the clips if you haven't already.


They're 1800 RPM.

I've tried resting the top panel on top. It does help a little. I'll keep the top panel fully inserted, since I'm fine with my temps. Like I mentioned earlier, it's around 37C while gaming.


----------



## nycgtr

Amazing build done by Singluarity Computers in an enthoo evolv

http://www.singularitycomputers.com/radium-002-7700k-delid-oc-comparison/

Dual ek 360s, and dual loops.


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Amazing build done by Singluarity Computers in an enthoo evolv
> 
> http://www.singularitycomputers.com/radium-002-7700k-delid-oc-comparison/
> 
> Dual ek 360s, and dual loops.


Thats amazing... its funny how a good camera can make a PC look so much better


----------



## Brando465

I'm planning on upgrading my fans next week from the TT Riing SP fans.
Any suggestions? Would prefer something that is reasonably quiet and performs well.
Corsair Air Series SP120 Performance Edition maybe?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> I'm planning on upgrading my fans next week from the TT Riing SP fans.
> Any suggestions? Would prefer something that is reasonably quiet and performs well.
> Corsair Air Series SP120 Performance Edition maybe?


In no particular order... Corsair ML, noctua nf-F12 ippc, noiseblocker/phobya eLoop. As a 120mm fan, the ML is pretty good. Otherwise I'd go with the eLoop.


----------



## DrockinWV

How does everyone have their fans setup in this case? Currently, I have 2 140s as intake in the front, 2 140s on top for exhaust, and a single 120 fan on the rear as exhaust. My temps are averaging 10-15c hotter in this case verses the Fractal Design R4 i swapped over from. I have been thinking of swapping the top 140 fans over to intake, but with lack of a filter I have yet to make that move.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> A 240mm front radiator is flowing the same amount of air as a 240 top radiator, so air comes in front, turns up and into top radiator and then out of case. Obviously optimum coolant flow would be from last heat source to top radiator and then to front radiator. This way warmer air is removing heat from warmest coolant first then fresh front intake air is cooling already partially cooled coolant.


Uh? This old chestnut lol? Loop order doesn't matter... how does this myth still perpetuate after all these years?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> How does everyone have their fans setup in this case? Currently, I have 2 140s as intake in the front, 2 140s on top for exhaust, and a single 120 fan on the rear as exhaust. My temps are averaging 10-15c hotter in this case verses the Fractal Design R4 i swapped over from. I have been thinking of swapping the top 140 fans over to intake, but with lack of a filter I have yet to make that move.


Assuming you are on air cooling, I would try 3 140mm as intake and the last 140 as rear exhaust and the 120 as top rear exhaust. Then make sure you block off the open areas in the to chamber. Also make sure you're CPU cooler is front to back, not bottom to top.

I have a custom loop, but my temps actual dropped from my R4 to my Evolv.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> I'm planning on upgrading my fans next week from the TT Riing SP fans.
> Any suggestions? Would prefer something that is reasonably quiet and performs well.
> Corsair Air Series SP120 Performance Edition maybe?


What is your current fan configuration? An SP120 wouldn't be a good choice anywhere in an Evolv ATX, really, no 120mm is.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> How does everyone have their fans setup in this case? Currently, I have 2 140s as intake in the front, 2 140s on top for exhaust, and a single 120 fan on the rear as exhaust. My temps are averaging 10-15c hotter in this case verses the Fractal Design R4 i swapped over from. I have been thinking of swapping the top 140 fans over to intake, but with lack of a filter I have yet to make that move.


What fans are you using?


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Assuming you are on air cooling, I would try 3 140mm as intake and the last 140 as rear exhaust and the 120 as top rear exhaust. Then make sure you block off the open areas in the to chamber. Also make sure you're CPU cooler is front to back, not bottom to top.
> 
> I have a custom loop, but my temps actual dropped from my R4 to my Evolv.


So you think 2 140s up front, 1 140 on top as intake, 1 120 on top back as exhaust and the other 140 on the back as exhaust? But yes you are correct in assuming I'm only running air config with a D15s for CPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> What fans are you using?


The 140 fans are Noctua A14 PWMs and the 120 is a Noctua S12A PWM


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Uh? This old chestnut lol? Loop order doesn't matter... how does this myth still perpetuate after all these years?


Please explain how loop order does not matter, and what loop order you would use.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> So you think 2 140s up front, 1 140 on top as intake, 1 120 on top back as exhaust and the other 140 on the back as exhaust? But yes you are correct in assuming I'm only running air config with a D15s for CPU.
> The 140 fans are Noctua A14 PWMs and the 120 is a Noctua S12A PWM


Yeah, my bad. 2 140 in front. IDK why I thought you could fit 3x140mm in the front... I own this damn case. For the front ones I would mount inside the case chamber not right next to the dust filter. This will allow for the fans to work a little easier (you can also buy longer screws for the front panel to move it a little further away from the front opening). Then 140mm back and 120mm top/back corner.

Also, no reason to ditch the included Phanteks fans as they do a good job moving air. If you have them in addition to the 3x140/1x120 you have then I could complicate your life by saying, add 2 of them to the top in front of the back 120mm (2x140+1x120 should just fit). If you don't do this, then make sure to close off the unused portion of the top chamber with black cardboard or equivalent.

On loop order... IIRC all that really matters is res out to pump in (IOW why pumps are at the bottom of pump/res combos and not the top). But rads and blocks generally don't matter in relation to the res/pump as water temp never varies more than a degree or two across any given point of the loop. Not to mention 1-2c is not going to make a single % performance difference.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Please explain how loop order does not matter, and what loop order you would use.


Well obviously pump should be above res, but apart from that it's long since been proven it makes no difference the order of blocks and rads. Temp equalises over time. This should be common knowledge by now.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> How does everyone have their fans setup in this case? Currently, I have 2 140s as intake in the front, 2 140s on top for exhaust, and a single 120 fan on the rear as exhaust. My temps are averaging 10-15c hotter in this case verses the Fractal Design R4 i swapped over from. I have been thinking of swapping the top 140 fans over to intake, but with lack of a filter I have yet to make that move.


Did you block all openings in fan mountiing tray except where fan are?


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Yeah, my bad. 2 140 in front. IDK why I thought you could fit 3x140mm in the front... I own this damn case. For the front ones I would mount inside the case chamber not right next to the dust filter. This will allow for the fans to work a little easier (you can also buy longer screws for the front panel to move it a little further away from the front opening). Then 140mm back and 120mm top/back corner.
> 
> Also, no reason to ditch the included Phanteks fans as they do a good job moving air. If you have them in addition to the 3x140/1x120 you have then I could complicate your life by saying, add 2 of them to the top in front of the back 120mm (2x140+1x120 should just fit). If you don't do this, then make sure to close off the unused portion of the top chamber with black cardboard or equivalent.


I will give this a whirl to see if it can lower temps some
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Did you block all openings in fan mountiing tray except where fan are?


No I have not currently have a small area that is open on the top tray. I have 2 140s mounted from the back towards the front on top (if that makes since)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Well obviously pump should be above res, but apart from that it's long since been proven it makes no difference the order of blocks and rads. Temp equalises over time. This should be common knowledge by now.


Please explain why pump should be above reservoir.
'Common knowledge' is often not accurate or correct, it is just what has been most 'commonly' said.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> I will give this a whirl to see if it can lower temps some
> No I have not currently have a small area that is open on the top tray. I have 2 140s mounted from the back towards the front on top (if that makes since)


Cover all opening between top area and motherboard area. The small vents in case make is harder for fans to push air out of them then flow through the open holes back down into motherboard area of case.

You might also try unclipping the top cover and just setting it back on top.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13700_20#post_25268315

This expalins the top vent area and how to remove top.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13240_20#post_25198233


----------



## geriatricpollywog

In regards to loop order, I found that placing both pumps adjacent to eachother can cause the soft tubing behind the first pump to be sucked flat. For 2 pump soft loop configurations, the 2 pumps should be spaced out to avoid this.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Please explain why pump should be above reservoir.
> 'Common knowledge' is often not accurate or correct, it is just what has been most 'commonly' said.


Sorry I misspoke, pump below res doh!

Nothing else matters in respect to performance in 99.9% of set ups (extreme loops may differ), temp equalises in a loop.


----------



## nycgtr

I just ordered 2x 360 gts. Let the challenge begin


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I just ordered 2x 360 gts. Let the challenge begin


A 360+280 fits with no issue and offers almost identical surface area. Just sayin'.......


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> A 360+280 fits with no issue and offers almost identical surface area. Just sayin'.......


Yea I currently have a 280 but the application is not right for this case as it's just too thick. I was thinking of getting the 280 gts or 240 gts. I know the 280gts is within 10% performance or less of the 360 with less restriction. However, seeing cases that come out these days I have a feeling moving forward onto my next builds a 360 would be more reusable. I have 420s, thick 240s, and 280s that all seem impractical for cases that come out these days that aren't monstrous towers. For the sake of down the line is why I decided to get 2 360s.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Yea I currently have a 280 but the application is not right for this case as it's just too thick. I was thinking of getting the 280 gts or 240 gts. I know the 280gts is within 10% performance or less of the 360 with less restriction. However, seeing cases that come out these days I have a feeling moving forward onto my next builds a 360 would be more reusable. I have 420s, thick 240s, and 280s that all seem impractical for cases that come out these days that aren't monstrous towers. For the sake of down the line is why I decided to get 2 360s.


I think that is pretty sound logic. The 140mm form has a tendency to increase the likelihood of clearance issues.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Sorry I misspoke, pump below res doh!
> 
> Nothing else matters in respect to performance in 99.9% of set ups (extreme loops may differ), temp equalises in a loop.


While it may not make much difference, it does make a difference.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> While it may not make much difference, it does make a difference.


Given temps normalise, no. And even if there was a scientific argument, practically speaking also no... not to the extent that is even worth thinking or concerning yourself with. There is not one single aspect of a loop that won't have more impact on performance than this, other than the obvious aesthetic elements of course. Heck, even adding a 90 degree fitting is going to affect flow rate and therefore have more of an impact than your loop order. It is simply not something anyone should be concerning themselves with.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Given temps normalise, no. And even if there was a scientific argument, practically speaking also no... not to the extent that is even worth thinking or concerning yourself with. There is not one single aspect of a loop that won't have more impact on performance than this, other than the obvious aesthetic elements of course. Heck, even adding a 90 degree fitting is going to affect flow rate and therefore have more of an impact than your loop order. It is simply not something anyone should be concerning themselves with.


What is your definition of "normalized" coolant temperature?
Physics say you are not being entirely accurate in your statements, and when combined with your gross generalizations leave much to be questioned.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Yea I currently have a 280 but the application is not right for this case as it's just too thick. I was thinking of getting the 280 gts or 240 gts. I know the 280gts is within 10% performance or less of the 360 with less restriction. However, seeing cases that come out these days I have a feeling moving forward onto my next builds a 360 would be more reusable. I have 420s, thick 240s, and 280s that all seem impractical for cases that come out these days that aren't monstrous towers. For the sake of down the line is why I decided to get 2 360s.




A HWLabs 280 will fit without much modification. An EK will fit with no modification. 280 is the way to go if you want to fit the most possible radiator into this case.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What is your definition of "normalized" coolant temperature?
> Physics say you are not being entirely accurate in your statements, and when combined with your gross generalizations leave much to be questioned.


I can't quite fathom how I'm having this discussion. This has been asked and answered COUNTLESS times over the years, so I'm starting to think you might be trolling. Please explain the physics that would necessitate someone worrying about their loop order (apart from the obvious res above pump)? And I don't just mean a science lesson and theory, because I am aware of the science, I mean in respect to real world performance figures and evidence of this, and how one loop order would in fact see marked improvement over another for these reasons.

You are right that it may make a *minuscule negligible difference*, but it is such a meager difference that concerning oneself with it over any other aspect of a loop is just pointless, and even a small change in fan speed would override that difference. Loop order has far more practical relevance to ease of draining than anything else.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Airflow hack


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> 
> 
> A HWLabs 280 will fit without much modification. An EK will fit with no modification. 280 is the way to go if you want to fit the most possible radiator into this case.


I know my thick rads will fit infront. Only problem is the need for faster fans (my thick rads play nicer with push pull)and dropping it in the basement is just an ugly look to me. Also my pump and reservoir have to fit in that area as well. I originally put a thick rad in the front and it did not work out for the rest of the parts. I currently have a thin 240 there.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> I can't quite fathom how I'm having this discussion. This has been asked and answered COUNTLESS times over the years, so I'm starting to think you might be trolling. Please explain the physics that would necessitate someone worrying about their loop order (apart from the obvious res above pump)? And I don't just mean a science lesson and theory, because I am aware of the science, I mean in respect to real world performance figures and evidence of this, and how one loop order would in fact see marked improvement over another for these reasons.
> 
> You are right that it may make a *minuscule negligible difference*, but it is such a meager difference that concerning oneself with it over any other aspect of a loop is just pointless, and even a small change in fan speed would override that difference. Loop order has far more practical relevance to ease of draining than anything else.


Can you please supply some links to credible data to support your claims.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Airflow hack


Nice!


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Can you please supply some links to credible data to support your claims.


Oh come on, now I KNOW you're trolling lol. Everyone who watercools knows this to be true... for some reason you remain in the dark. You'll be asking me to provide proof the world is round next. The onus is on you to provide credible data that loop order DOES matter, because there is no evidence what you're saying is true in a real world practical sense, not even manufacturers give such advice.

I will go with EK. They make watercooling components and know what they're doing. You clearly don't.

https://www.ekwb.com/blog/does-loop-order-matter/

FYI, I've had about half a dozen private messages in the last hour suggesting I ignore and not engage with you, citing you to be a d*ck. I don't know if this is true, it seems a bit harsh to me, but you are clearly misinformed at the very least.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Oh come on, now I KNOW you're trolling lol. Everyone who watercools knows this to be true... for some reason you remain in the dark. You'll be asking me to provide proof the world is round next. The onus is on you to provide credible data that loop order DOES matter, because there is no evidence what you're saying is true in a real world practical sense.
> 
> I will go with EK. They make watercooling components and know what they're doing. You clearly don't.
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/blog/does-loop-order-matter/
> 
> I've had about half a dozen private messages in the last hour suggesting I ignore and not engage with you, citing you to be a d*ck. I don't know if this is true, it seems a bit harsh to me, but you are clearly misinformed at the very least.


In my experience, the only time loop order matters is while things are heating up. Once components reach their max temperature, it's all relative. From my own experience anyways.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> In my experience, the only time loop order matters is while things are heating up. Once components reach their max temperature, it's all relative. From my own experience anyways.


Yes, this is pretty much everyone's experience, mine included... like I said, it normalises.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Oh come on, now I KNOW you're trolling lol. Everyone who watercools knows this to be true... for some reason you remain in the dark. You'll be asking me to provide proof the world is round next. The onus is on you to provide credible data that loop order DOES matter, because there is no evidence what you're saying is true in a real world practical sense, not even manufacturers give such advice.
> 
> I will go with EK. They make watercooling components and know what they're doing. You clearly don't.
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/blog/does-loop-order-matter/
> 
> FYI, I've had about half a dozen private messages in the last hour suggesting I ignore and not engage with you, citing you to be a d*ck. I don't know if this is true, it seems a bit harsh to me, but you are clearly misinformed at the very least.


From extreme generalizations to blatantly lying about pm's in half hour.








Oh! Your link about loop order is for one waterblock and one radiator and serial vs parallel GPU blocks .. hardly applicable to multiple waterblocks and radiators.

It is obvious you cannot support our claims, be they true or false. I'm not saying you are wrong, I'm only trying see actual data supporting or refuting your claims. Enough, let's more on.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> In my experience, the only time loop order matters is while things are heating up. Once components reach their max temperature, it's all relative. From my own experience anyways.


Sounds logical. What is your loop order?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> From extreme generalizations to blatantly lying about pm's in half hour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh! Your link about loop order is for one waterblock and one radiator and serial vs parallel GPU blocks .. hardly applicable to multiple waterblocks and radiators.
> 
> It is obvious you cannot support our claims, be they true or false. I'm not saying you are wrong, I'm only trying see actual data supporting or refuting your claims. Enough, let's more on.
> Sounds logical. What is your loop order?


I've tried a few scenarios.

Pump/res > CPU > GPU > Rad
Pump/res > GPU > CPU > Rad
Pump/res > CPU > Rad > GPU > Rad
Pump/Res > CPU > GPU > Rad > Rad


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I've tried a few scenarios.
> 
> Pump/res > CPU > GPU > Rad
> Pump/res > GPU > CPU > Rad
> Pump/res > CPU > Rad > GPU > Rad
> Pump/Res > CPU > GPU > Rad > Rad


Thank you.
Do you remember if temps were identical or was there a slight difference? I have seen a slight difference in some builds.


----------



## gerrardo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> A 360+280 fits with no issue and offers almost identical surface area. Just sayin'.......


Nemesis 280GTS (one of the better slim ones per XtremeRigs) is is 153MM across, and the opening in the front last I measured was 155mm wide, give or take. It CAN fit, but will likely be very tight without modding and potentially create other challenges unless you remove the plate over the PSU cover since the 140mm fan holes are fixed whereas the 120mm fan holes are just rails. This assumes a push orientation.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thank you.
> Do you remember if temps were identical or was there a slight difference? I have seen a slight difference in some builds.


The temps were similar with the same amount of radiators.

Basically, the only temperature difference was between idle and the peak temperatures. Idle and load were the same.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> From extreme generalizations to blatantly lying about pm's in half hour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh! Your link about loop order is for one waterblock and one radiator and serial vs parallel GPU blocks .. hardly applicable to multiple waterblocks and radiators.
> 
> It is obvious you cannot support our claims, be they true or false. I'm not saying you are wrong, I'm only trying see actual data supporting or refuting your claims. Enough, let's more on.
> Sounds logical. What is your loop order?


How am I generalizing by saying loop order doesn't matter? That's a simple statement. There's a support for my claim in Sazexa's post ABOVE lol! And there will be countless others from many who've tried it different ways. It is possible you will see a SLIGHT difference, nothing more, but in many cases none, just as Sazexa reports. I have seen the same scenario myself in my builds. I used to believe it made a difference before I educated myself through practical experimentation and experience. You have not provided ANY evidence to the contrary, only throwing it back at me saying 'prove it'... well, we have at least some modicum of proof right here. Where is yours lol? And don't throw science or theory at me, I know what that says, and I think that's all you're hanging on to, and the SLIGHT difference you may have seen or heard about in some builds. My point is that it is not something anyone should ever be concerned about, because in the grand scheme of things it simply does not matter... fan selection will have a greater impact, even the coolant used! Anything and everything will impact performance more than loop order. Jeez, it's like talking to a tree!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> The temps were similar with the same amount of radiators.
> 
> Basically, the only temperature difference was between idle and the peak temperatures. Idle and load were the same.


Now I'm confused.
1st you say 'temps were similar' then 'only temp difference was between idle and peak' then 'id and load were the same'. They cannot be similar, difference and same .. similar and difference, okay ll but not similar and same .. and not difference and same.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> How am I generalizing by saying loop order doesn't matter? That's a simple statement. There's a support for my claim in Sazexa's post ABOVE lol! And there will be countless others from many who've tried it different ways. It is possible you will see a SLIGHT difference, nothing more, but in many cases none, just as Sazexa reports. I have seen the same scenario myself in my builds. I used to believe it made a difference before I educated myself through practical experimentation and experience. You have not provided ANY evidence to the contrary, only throwing it back at me saying 'prove it'... well, we have at least some modicum of proof right here. Where is yours lol? And don't throw science or theory at me, I know what that says, and I think that's all you're hanging on to, and the SLIGHT difference you may have seen or heard about in some builds. My point is that it is not something anyone should ever be concerned about, because in the grand scheme of things it simply does not matter... fan selection will have a greater impact, even the coolant used! Anything and everything will impact performance more than loop order. Jeez, it's like talking to a tree!


Science says there is a difference. I'm asking you to show me how much. I'm not saying the difference is enough to worry about. I'm simply saying there has to be some differences in temperatures.

How about we both quite? We can agree to disagree. Okay?


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Science says there is a difference. I'm asking you to show me how much. I'm not saying the difference is enough to worry about. I'm simply saying there has to be some differences in temperatures.
> 
> How about we both quite? We can agree to disagree. Okay?


OK, let's be clear because we seem to be talking cross purposes here somewhat... I agree science says there is a difference. Science says a lot of things, but the practical significance in a given situation can still be utterly irrelevant, as is the case here. That is precisely my point, and in fact all available real world experiential evidence supports my original statement that loop order doesn't matter. I did NOT say that science says loop order makes no difference.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Now I'm confused.
> 1st you say 'temps were similar' then 'only temp difference was between idle and peak' then 'id and load were the same'. They cannot be similar, difference and same .. similar and difference, okay ll but not similar and same .. and not difference and same.


Similar respective to radiator count.

In the test with one radiator, the difference was within 2°C. I'd say that's margin of error, and just temps slightly fluctuating.

The same holds true for the set up with two rads, except respectively the extra radiator led to lower temps over all and a tighter margin of error of around 1°C with less fluctuating temperatures.

In each scenario, idle temperatures remained the same. In the scenario with two radiators, the load temperatures were lower as expected.

Comparing similar set ups (IE the two single rad loops,) the idle and load temperatures didn't change from either having the CPU first or GPU first. All that changed was the time it took to make one component reach it's maximum temperature under load. If the CPU was first in loop order, the GPU reached.max faster. Vice versa for GPU first then CPU.

The second test with two radiators proved to be true as well, just slightly better cooling and less fluctuating from the additional cooling capacity. I hope that was worded better.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

So who has the coldest Evolv ATX?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> So who has the coldest Evolv ATX?


Coldest? I would assume the northern most owner. Most efficient? Too many factors. IMO for custom loops, if your water temps are <20c+ ambient under load, you are doing just fine. 15c is good. 10c is great. I don't think anybody with serious silicon has done that in an Evolv.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Coldest? I would assume the northern most owner. Most efficient? Too many factors. IMO for custom loops, if your water temps are <20c+ ambient under load, you are doing just fine. 15c is good. 10c is great. I don't think anybody with serious silicon has done that in an Evolv.


Could also be the owner who keeps their AC set the lowest, you have to account for man made environments, it's not always location. And don't forget that we have an owner or two here with loops so efficient that they report their liquid temp is actually below ambient.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Coldest? I would assume the northern most owner. Most efficient? Too many factors. IMO for custom loops, if your water temps are <20c+ ambient under load, you are doing just fine. 15c is good. 10c is great. I don't think anybody with serious silicon has done that in an Evolv.


I'm at 10c (water delta, sensor at warmest point in loop) overclocked under gaming load and I want to find out if there is a more efficient setup.


----------



## tbuttery

Hey Guys/Gals!

I just built my new PC in the Enthoo ATX, so I thought I would share my experience thus far. Take it with a grain of salt as this is my 2nd personal build, and I have done 2 other builds for other folks.

Some quick system specs:

i7-7700K
Strix GTX 1070
Asus ROG Hero IX
2 x 360mm HWL GTS Rads - w/NB PL-2's. Both of these are in push configuration bring cool outside air through the radiator. As you will notice below, I do not have any fans showing on the inside portion of my radiators. To allow for the push config on both, I had to modify the top space by removing all the "lips" on the radiator bracket and top panel bracket. Pics are below so you all understand this better. It isn't an attractive mod, but you don't see it during normal operation. This way I was able to stuff the 120mm fans in the top cavity out of sight. I am not a big fan of fans on the inside of the case where they are visible.
It is still an extremely tight fit with both 360 rads, but it can be done.









The top shroud I have found to be a bit restrictive with air flow. When I remove it, I am able to feel more air flowing through my top radiator. But it isn't too bad with it on. I think Phanteks could have added some larger intake holes for folks that want to do intake on the top instead of exhaust.

So for my temps....
I am seeing on average 25-30C idle, and 60-70C 100% load while running Aida64 and other benchmark programs. Seems pretty decent to me. In my limited testing so far, I have only seen my water temperature increase from 79F to 89F while either testing or gaming, but no higher than that as of right now. I would say this is pretty decent. What do you all think of those temps? Good/bad? I see a lot of comments about temps in this thread and I know the Kaby Lake chips run pretty hot compared to other chips.

Everything else about this case was fantastic to build in. Cable management was a breeze, but I also made all my cables custom and sleeved them as well. And besides the slight modifications, everything fit without a problem. Pretty good case to build in, and it looks slick if you ask me!

I can take additional pics later if anyone wants to see different components or areas of the PC.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Hey Guys/Gals!
> 
> I just built my new PC in the Enthoo ATX, so I thought I would share my experience thus far. Take it with a grain of salt as this is my 2nd personal build, and I have done 2 other builds for other folks.
> 
> Some quick system specs:
> 
> i7-7700K
> Strix GTX 1070
> Asus ROG Hero IX
> 2 x 360mm HWL GTS Rads - w/NB PL-2's. Both of these are in push configuration bring cool outside air through the radiator. As you will notice below, I do not have any fans showing on the inside portion of my radiators. To allow for the push config on both, I had to modify the top space by removing all the "lips" on the radiator bracket and top panel bracket. Pics are below so you all understand this better. It isn't an attractive mod, but you don't see it during normal operation. This way I was able to stuff the 120mm fans in the top cavity out of sight. I am not a big fan of fans on the inside of the case where they are visible.
> It is still an extremely tight fit with both 360 rads, but it can be done.
> 
> The top shroud I have found to be a bit restrictive with air flow. When I remove it, I am able to feel more air flowing through my top radiator. But it isn't too bad with it on. I think Phanteks could have added some larger intake holes for folks that want to do intake on the top instead of exhaust.
> 
> So for my temps....
> I am seeing on average 25-30C idle, and 60-70C 100% load while running Aida64 and other benchmark programs. Seems pretty decent to me. In my limited testing so far, I have only seen my water temperature increase from 79F to 89F while either testing or gaming, but no higher than that as of right now. I would say this is pretty decent. What do you all think of those temps? Good/bad? I see a lot of comments about temps in this thread and I know the Kaby Lake chips run pretty hot compared to other chips.
> 
> Everything else about this case was fantastic to build in. Cable management was a breeze, but I also made all my cables custom and sleeved them as well. And besides the slight modifications, everything fit without a problem. Pretty good case to build in, and it looks slick if you ask me!
> 
> I can take additional pics later if anyone wants to see different components or areas of the PC.


What is your idle water temp and water temp under extended gaming load? Also, what is your fan speed?


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> What is your idle water temp and water temp under extended gaming load? Also, what is your fan speed?


Idle water temp is around 75-79F. Depending on how cold the room is on that particular day.

After a good deal of loading, a few hours, the water seemed to level out at 89F, and the core temp jumped around from 60-70C. I've been debating de-lidding the CPU but we will see. I can live with those temps for a bit.

Also, my fans are curve controlled, so they were running at 95-100% (1500 ish RPM) while at that 89F.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Idle water temp is around 75-79F. Depending on how cold the room is on that particular day.
> 
> After a good deal of loading, a few hours, the water seemed to level out at 89F, and the core temp jumped around from 60-70C. I've been debating de-lidding the CPU but we will see. I can live with those temps for a bit.
> 
> Also, my fans are curve controlled, so they were running at 95-100% (1500 ish RPM) while at that 89F.


That is still pretty good. Can you share results with fans ar 1000rpm?


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> That is still pretty good. Can you share results with fans ar 1000rpm?


Yes. I will limit the fans to 1000 RPM and see what I get tonight. I also want to take the Top of the case off and see if the temps change much. I am getting decent intake through the top, but I know it is restricted.

I am just not used to seeing those crazy temperature spikes, but I understand the 7700K runs a lot hotter than past CPUs. Maybe when I do my first loop change-out...I will delid.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> That is still pretty good. Can you share results with fans ar 1000rpm?


Haven't done the 1000 RPM test yet, but removing the top panel made a hug difference.

My max water temperature only got to 83.5F instead of 89F! I removed the front panel to see if that resulted in anything, but that was within the margin of error. Negligible change.

Phanteks definitely failed with the airflow in the top of this case, but we already knew that! Still a sick looking case.


----------



## dlewbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> 2 x 360mm HWL GTS Rads - w/NB PL-2's. Both of these are in push configuration bring cool outside air through the radiator. As you will notice below, I do not have any fans showing on the inside portion of my radiators. To allow for the push config on both, I had to modify the top space by removing all the "lips" on the radiator bracket and top panel bracket. Pics are below so you all understand this better. It isn't an attractive mod, but you don't see it during normal operation. This way I was able to stuff the 120mm fans in the top cavity out of sight. I am not a big fan of fans on the inside of the case where they are visible.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Haven't done the 1000 RPM test yet, but removing the top panel made a hug difference.
> 
> My max water temperature only got to 83.5F instead of 89F! I removed the front panel to see if that resulted in anything, but that was within the margin of error. Negligible change.
> 
> Phanteks definitely failed with the airflow in the top of this case, but we already knew that! Still a sick looking case.


You start out stating that you modified the case to force fans into the top cavity, where the case was not designed to hold them, but then claim that Phanteks failed with the airflow. It really isn't fair to Phanteks to criticize them for their case not being optimal when used in a manner that it clearly isn't designed for. Yeah, sure, it would be better with larger top vents, but it likely still wouldn't help you much. The problem in your situation is that your fans are too close to the panel itself. You would see better results if you moved the fans inside the main chamber, as was intended. Maybe not the same as with the top panel, but I'd bet closer to that than your current temps.

Sure, it would be nice if it worked the way you want to use it, & maybe the should consider a redesign with either a larger top chamber or vents on the top surface. It just doesn't seem right to claim that it's poorly designed when you haven't tried it as it was designed to be used yet.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> You start out stating that you modified the case to force fans into the top cavity, where the case was not designed to hold them, but then claim that Phanteks failed with the airflow. It really isn't fair to Phanteks to criticize them for their case not being optimal when used in a manner that it clearly isn't designed for. Yeah, sure, it would be better with larger top vents, but it likely still wouldn't help you much. The problem in your situation is that your fans are too close to the panel itself. You would see better results if you moved the fans inside the main chamber, as was intended. Maybe not the same as with the top panel, but I'd bet closer to that than your current temps.
> 
> Sure, it would be nice if it worked the way you want to use it, & maybe the should consider a redesign with either a larger top chamber or vents on the top surface. It just doesn't seem right to claim that it's poorly designed when you haven't tried it as it was designed to be used yet.


No major knock on Phanteks man. Still love the case. And no, the fans are not able to be supplied with enough air at high RPMs due to the small vents. If I had it in a pull setup on the inside, I would venture to say it will be the same airflow. Still pulling from the same chamber. Also, I cut out all the middle support bars, so my fans are hardly even blocked.

It would work better from an airflow standpoint to install these in push as your supply is now your open case, and the air can go out every nook and cranny, but I am not a fan of using hot case air to cool my radiator...even at some point all temps will stabilize out. And I do not like the look of visible fans besides my exhaust fan.

Never said I wasn't happy with my build. I am still getting decent temps. 89F max is pretty good.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> You start out stating that you modified the case to force fans into the top cavity, where the case was not designed to hold them, but then claim that Phanteks failed with the airflow. It really isn't fair to Phanteks to criticize them for their case not being optimal when used in a manner that it clearly isn't designed for. Yeah, sure, it would be better with larger top vents, but it likely still wouldn't help you much. The problem in your situation is that your fans are too close to the panel itself. You would see better results if you moved the fans inside the main chamber, as was intended. Maybe not the same as with the top panel, but I'd bet closer to that than your current temps.
> 
> Sure, it would be nice if it worked the way you want to use it, & maybe the should consider a redesign with either a larger top chamber or vents on the top surface. It just doesn't seem right to claim that it's poorly designed when you haven't tried it as it was designed to be used yet.


Exactly. But, how many times can it really be said? Falls on deaf ears.


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> In no particular order... Corsair ML, noctua nf-F12 ippc, noiseblocker/phobya eLoop. As a 120mm fan, the ML is pretty good. Otherwise I'd go with the eLoop.


What fans are you running?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> What is your current fan configuration? An SP120 wouldn't be a good choice anywhere in an Evolv ATX, really, no 120mm is.


What do you recommend then ?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> What fans are you running?
> What do you recommend then ?


Check my signature. Noctua NF-A14s aren't the best when it comes to noise just good. As a 120m fan the Corsair ML is probably your best bet.


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Check my signature. Noctua NF-A14s aren't the best when it comes to noise just good. As a 120m fan the Corsair ML is probably your best bet.


Ah okay, far out so many mixed opinions in the thread... seems no one can agree on anything.
You and ciarlatano completely contradict each other. Dont know who to believe


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> Ah okay, far out so many mixed opinions in the thread... seems no one can agree on anything.
> You and ciarlatano completely contradict each other. Dont know who to believe


I mean there are cheaper options and there are better performing options than the ML. However, you asked for quiet and below 1200rpm the ML series is pretty darn quiet. I don't think there should be any confusion there.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I mean there are cheaper options and there are better performing options than the ML. However, you asked for quiet and below 1200rpm the ML series is pretty darn quiet. I don't think there should be any confusion there.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> Ah okay, far out so many mixed opinions in the thread... seems no one can agree on anything.
> You and ciarlatano completely contradict each other. Dont know who to believe


Actually, my mistake.....maybe.....for some reason I thought you were looking at using the SP120 as intake or exhaust, and not on a radiator. That is why I said that a 120mm would be a poor choice, as 140mm would obviously move more air with less noise than a 120mm, and the Evolv ATX can use 140mm in every location.

That said, I agree with @paskowitz that the *ML*120 is a good fan (the SP120 you were originally referring to are....well....not so good, and way overpriced). Wouldn't be my choice of fan, but I am guessing that the LEDs are important to you.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Check my signature. Noctua NF-A14s aren't the best when it comes to noise just good. As a 120m fan the Corsair ML is probably your best bet.


Could not agree more Corsair ML fans work very well i only run mine at 750rpm upto around 55 degrees C nearly silent, biggest temp improvement to make is to cut a hole in the top and let the hot air out.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I mean there are cheaper options and there are better performing options than the ML. However, you asked for quiet and below 1200rpm the ML series is pretty darn quiet. I don't think there should be any confusion there.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Could not agree more Corsair ML fans work very well i only run mine at 750rpm upto around 55 degrees C nearly silent, biggest temp improvement to make is to cut a hole in the top and let the hot air out.


What do you all think about the Noiseblocker PL-2's?


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> What do you all think about the Noiseblocker PL-2's?


Cant really comment as i have not used them but having 6 Corsair ML120 in my case I can attest to how quiet they are and how well they perform. Three of the fans are set up as exhaust push on the top mounted 360 rad 2 more set up as push intake on the front mounted 240mm rad and 1 is set up as intake on the rear panel. Airflow inside my case is not hugely important in terms of cooling the components as the VRM is water cooled as well. Only put a fan on the back to try and balance the pressure and provide at least some air flow. Next mod will be cutting a large hole in the top of the case when i get a chance to do so only because i live in a hot climate. Might consider getting a second case to swap tops over between summer and winter, its only 4 screws to hold it in place so no big deal.


----------



## SupernovaBE

Hi, sorry for the question !

There is a contest on the lanparty im at.
guess the weight of the system.
Someone here that has something similar to put on the scale ?

If you want more pictures just ask


----------



## paskowitz

No lower than 60lbs. No higher than 75. I'd say 68lbs would be a good bet.


----------



## SupernovaBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> No lower than 60lbs. No higher than 75. I'd say 68lbs would be a good bet.


Yeah that would be my best gues 2


----------



## nycgtr

Waiting on my delivery of the rest of ml120s which come in today, but having swapped to 2 360 gts in push on both rads. My temps have improved dramatically. Cpu loads in the higher 50s to 60s across cores and gpu temp has not exceeded 45 in looping valley. Ambient temp is 26. Water temp is 31 under load I have seen water temps around 36 max but very briefly. Fans kick in and it keeps under 34.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Waiting on my delivery of the rest of ml120s which come in today, but having swapped to 2 360 gts in push on both rads. My temps have improved dramatically. Cpu loads in the higher 50s to 60s across cores and gpu temp has not exceeded 45 in looping valley. Ambient temp is 26. Water temp is 31 under load I have seen water temps around 36 max but very briefly. Fans kick in and it keeps under 34.


Looks like that is the winning setup for your config. Is your top rad intake or exhaust?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Looks like that is the winning setup for your config. Is your top rad intake or exhaust?


My top is exhaust. The temps I stated are for a fan max of 1250 rpm and case fully sealed up. I know the ml fans will be more silent as I already have 2 but right now theres 6 sp 120s. The other 4 I need are out for delivery atm.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> My top is exhaust. The temps I stated are for a fan max of 1250 rpm and case fully sealed up. I know the ml fans will be more silent as I already have 2 but right now theres 6 sp 120s. The other 4 I need are out for delivery atm.


With that high of an ambient, that is really good. My water temps are about the same (idle/load) but with 160mm less rad, 19-22c ambient and fans at ~800-1k RPM. It isn't apples to apples, but it sounds like your setup is running optimally. See folks, it can be done.









EDIT: I should note this is with the top panel resting on the clips and the front panel extended ~1/2 an inch.


----------



## nycgtr

I will post my temps after I get the other fans in. I still need to adjust my curves a bit and let all the air out. I will draining again to do the fans so... I have yet to tape up the top under the lid. For the front I used a longer screw for the front plate clips so it extends the plate out by 3-4MM. I have noticed that having gone with the thin rad on top vs the 2 thicker ones i've tried one with 10 fpi and one with 14-15fpi the airflow coming out of the vents is significantly higher. Sucks I had to get 2 new rads just for this case but oh well.


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I will post my temps after I get the other fans in. I still need to adjust my curves a bit and let all the air out. I will draining again to do the fans so... I have yet to tape up the top under the lid. For the front I used a longer screw for the front plate clips so it extends the plate out by 3-4MM. I have noticed that having gone with the thin rad on top vs the 2 thicker ones i've tried one with 10 fpi and one with 14-15fpi the airflow coming out of the vents is significantly higher. Sucks I had to get 2 new rads just for this case but oh well.


Do you have any pics of your setup?
And what rads are you running?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Cant really comment as i have not used them but having 6 Corsair ML120 in my case I can attest to how quiet they are and how well they perform. Three of the fans are set up as exhaust push on the top mounted 360 rad 2 more set up as push intake on the front mounted 240mm rad and 1 is set up as intake on the rear panel. Airflow inside my case is not hugely important in terms of cooling the components as the VRM is water cooled as well. Only put a fan on the back to try and balance the pressure and provide at least some air flow. Next mod will be cutting a large hole in the top of the case when i get a chance to do so only because i live in a hot climate. Might consider getting a second case to swap tops over between summer and winter, its only 4 screws to hold it in place so no big deal.


I wouldn't call Melbourne 'Hot'.


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I mean there are cheaper options and there are better performing options than the ML. However, you asked for quiet and below 1200rpm the ML series is pretty darn quiet. I don't think there should be any confusion there.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Could not agree more Corsair ML fans work very well i only run mine at 750rpm upto around 55 degrees C nearly silent, biggest temp improvement to make is to cut a hole in the top and let the hot air out.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Actually, my mistake.....maybe.....for some reason I thought you were looking at using the SP120 as intake or exhaust, and not on a radiator. That is why I said that a 120mm would be a poor choice, as 140mm would obviously move more air with less noise than a 120mm, and the Evolv ATX can use 140mm in every location.
> 
> That said, I agree with @paskowitz that the *ML*120 is a good fan (the SP120 you were originally referring to are....well....not so good, and way overpriced). Wouldn't be my choice of fan, but I am guessing that the LEDs are important to you.


My local PC store sells 3 different types of ML120's
- Corsair Air Series SP120 High Static Pressure Blue LED Fan
- Corsair Air Series SP120 Performance Edition Case Fan (No LED)
- Corsair ML120 Pro LED 120mm Premium Mag-Lev Fan Blue

Which one do are you guys talking about?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> My local PC store sells 3 different types of ML120's
> - Corsair Air Series SP120 High Static Pressure Blue LED Fan
> - Corsair Air Series SP120 Performance Edition Case Fan (No LED)
> - Corsair ML120 Pro LED 120mm Premium Mag-Lev Fan Blue
> 
> Which one do are you guys talking about?


There is only one ML120 listed there. SP120 and ML120 are not the same fan. If you _must_ have a Corsair fan for some reason, you want the ML120 (the last one on your list). You do not want the SP120, which are the first two listed.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There is only one ML120 listed there. SP120 and ML120 are not the same fan. If you _must_ have a Corsair fan for some reason, you want the ML120 (the last one on your list). You do not want the SP120, which are the first two listed.


Exactly.

ML 120 comes in a few different varients, but 'ML 120' is the first part of all their names.
ML120 PRO 120mm PWM
ML120 PRO LED Blue
ML120 PRO LED Red
ML120 PRO LED White


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> Do you have any pics of your setup?
> And what rads are you running?
> I wouldn't call Melbourne 'Hot'.


So 40 degrees C is not hot lol still 27 degrees room temperture isnt exactly cold either. As stated earlier Corsair ML120s are the pick of the Corsair fans but expect to pay around $40AU each for the led ones.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brando465*
> 
> Do you have any pics of your setup?
> And what rads are you running?
> I wouldn't call Melbourne 'Hot'.




I only have 1 set of fans for intake and exhaust no rear fan. Rear fan is pretty impossible to fit unless its maybe a 15mm fan. Without the top and front cover and 6 ml 120s pretty much not moving past 1k rpm atm. I am getting mid 50s max cpu under 100% load with haswell-e with aida 64 running for 30mins. Gpu temp stays from mid to high 40s (titan x pascal @ 2080mhz)in valley loop for an hour. It's a bit cooler in the apartment today with an ambient of 25c. My water temp idle is 28c and underload temp is 31-32c now. Loudest thing right now is the pump which I have set at a minimum of 2800 rpm. I expect an increase of a few C under load with the covers on. For the rads I am using 2x 360 nemesis gts.


----------



## Brando465

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> There is only one ML120 listed there. SP120 and ML120 are not the same fan. If you _must_ have a Corsair fan for some reason, you want the ML120 (the last one on your list). You do not want the SP120, which are the first two listed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Exactly.
> 
> ML 120 comes in a few different varients, but 'ML 120' is the first part of all their names.
> ML120 PRO 120mm PWM
> ML120 PRO LED Blue
> ML120 PRO LED Red
> ML120 PRO LED White


Sorry, how I wanted to word that and how it came out were two totally different things. Was running off 4 hours sleep.
I don't need to have Corsair but they are available at my local PC store.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> So 40 degrees C is not hot lol still 27 degrees room temperture isnt exactly cold either. As stated earlier Corsair ML120s are the pick of the Corsair fans but expect to pay around $40AU each for the led ones.


Heat waves don't count







but in all seriousness it has been a hot summer!
I'm happy to pay the money for a premium product.


----------



## springs113

Hey the ml120 pros if u want to be able to change the corner (colors). Or the phantek PH-F120MP_BBK_PWM, great fans. I've got 8 ML alongside 2 of those phanteks in my system and my system is whisper quiet. My pumps are louder than everything in my build.


----------



## nycgtr

Seems now i am having the top lid be a temp problem. The empty additional spaces I have sealed off before I even tested my temps. The lid is making a up to 9c difference and a 4c water temp difference almost. Not fully closing it does save a few degrees but I am considering now to find somewhere to cnc cut it.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Seems now i am having the top lid be a temp problem. The empty additional spaces I have sealed off before I even tested my temps. The lid is making a up to 9c difference and a 4c water temp difference almost. Not fully closing it does save a few degrees but I am considering now to find somewhere to cnc cut it.


Did you see my post in the owners club? I'm working on getting a shop to offer cutting up the Evolv's top as a service. Nothing is finalized, but I assume you would be interested?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Did you see my post in the owners club? I'm working on getting a shop to offer cutting up the Evolv's top as a service. Nothing is finalized, but I assume you would be interested?


Yes I would be depending on cost and seeing a cut result.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Yes I would be depending on cost and seeing a cut result.


I'll PM you when I have that information. I can say a new top from Phanteks is ~$35 shipping included. Given how many people would want this, I think getting the cost low shouldn't be a problem. Shipping will likely cost the most.

If you have any design suggestions feel free to PM me a sketch or Photoshop.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I'll PM you when I have that information. I can say a new top from Phanteks is ~$35 shipping included. Given how many people would want this, I think getting the cost low shouldn't be a problem. Shipping will likely cost the most.
> 
> If you have any design suggestions feel free to PM me a sketch or Photoshop.


My original plan was to order a decimex magnetic 2x140mm duster filter and get something cut to smaller than that and just put that on top. Not the prettiest thing but it works. However, I did see somewhere someone cut the evolv front and top the air vent style similar to that on the parvum cases. Heck an arrangement of slits similar to the ones on the side would work well too.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> My original plan was to order a decimex magnetic 2x140mm duster filter and get something cut to smaller than that and just put that on top. Not the prettiest thing but it works. However, I did see somewhere someone cut the evolv front and top the air vent style similar to that on the parvum cases. Heck an arrangement of slits similar to the ones on the side would work well too.


That's kinda what I was planning. Ultimately, I'd love to get a setup similar to the elite with a swappable vent portion but balancing aesthetics is hard.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Did you see my post in the owners club? I'm working on getting a shop to offer cutting up the Evolv's top as a service. Nothing is finalized, but I assume you would be interested?


Interested as well!

How have you all modified the filter intake in the front? Right now I have a Demciflex on the top (3 x 120), and I have the same just sitting on the front filter cage. Seems quite inefficient. The fans contact the filter if I put the filter directly on the fans.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Interested as well!
> 
> How have you all modified the filter intake in the front? Right now I have a Demciflex on the top (3 x 120), and I have the same just sitting on the front filter cage. Seems quite inefficient. The fans contact the filter if I put the filter directly on the fans.


All I did in the front was move the front panel out a bit more by installing some longer screws. I have personally not had any issue with the stock dust filter.


----------



## nycgtr

Here it is

http://www.overclock.net/t/1623313/sponsored-project-impossible

From Wakawakapl build thread


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Here it is
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1623313/sponsored-project-impossible
> 
> From Wakawakapl build thread


Looks doable. I would personally make the top/bottom identical vs offset but overall it looks good.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Looks doable. I would personally make the top/bottom identical vs offset but overall it looks good.


His thread he has the front in the same design.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

I am seeing a 0 to 1.0 C temp difference with lid off depending on fan speed.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I am seeing a 0 to 1.0 C temp difference with lid off depending on fan speed.


That's because you have 5 rads.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> That's because you have 5 rads.


I think it has more to do with having a rear fan.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I think it has more to do with having a rear fan.


I have a rear fan, and when I take the top lid off, my temps go down by 3 C. I would be down for the top panel modification.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> I have a rear fan, and when I take the top lid off, my temps go down by 3 C. I would be down for the top panel modification.


Noted. I'll be making a post and some PMs once the details are finalized. It may be a week or two.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Noted. I'll be making a post and some PMs once the details are finalized. It may be a week or two.


Count me in if possible to ship to Australia? Would like a more simple cut like below but I guess design is not finalised?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Count me in if possible to ship to Australia? Would like a more simple cut like below but I guess design is not finalised?


Theoretically, the design could be any 2D shape that doesn't overlap with the plastic mounting points. There will likely be a default design and then a custom option as an extra.

In terms of shipping, anything is possible with enough money...


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> anything is possible with enough money...


----------



## paskowitz

Please forgive the MS paint, I am working on getting a better version... but this was the ROUGH design I was personally going for.

Front and back cut outs like on Project 217 and center cuts that mimic the side vents. Yellow zones are about where the cuts would be. Black is about the area of the cuts (except for the ends of the middle two which are up for debate). Please ignore the rest of the lines/shapes/etc. LMK what you think


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Please forgive the MS paint, I am working on getting a better version... but this was the ROUGH design I was personally going for.
> 
> Front and back cut outs like on Project 217 and center cuts that mimic the side vents. Yellow zones are about where the cuts would be. Black is about the area of the cuts (except for the ends of the middle two which are up for debate). Please ignore the rest of the lines/shapes/etc. LMK what you think


It's a good look. However, I feel one strip of the opening is lined up with what is the rad mount unused area below it. If I am going to cut the top, I would like maximum breath ability right above the rad area.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> It's a good look. However, I feel one strip of the opening is lined up with what is the rad mount unused area below it. If I am going to cut the top, I would like maximum breath ability right above the rad area.


I'll do some testing. IIRC the difference should be minimal as long as total vent area meets a certain threshold. Air will find the easiest path. Huge vs big enough won't improve performance (IDK if that makes sense lol). I'm not a fluid dynamics expert*


----------



## paskowitz

Ok, big image post. These are the designs I am thinking of personally. The default design may end up just being a bit old rectangle or something else. There will like be an option to submit your own design, but nothing is final ATM. Obviously, that would cost a little more. Again, I still do not have final confirmation this is going through so please, don't let your hopes ryzen too far








Quote:


>


If you want something specific shoot me a PM with a sketch (hand or digital or reference image) and I will see what I can come up with in Ps.


----------



## bartimaeus555

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/3rfd5b/first_watercooled_pc_two_360_rads_in_an_enthoo/


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartimaeus555*
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/3rfd5b/first_watercooled_pc_two_360_rads_in_an_enthoo/


Looks great, but you lose a rear fan. With a 280 on top, you can use thicker radiators and kep the rear fan.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Looks great, but you lose a rear fan. With a 280 on top, you can use thicker radiators and kep the rear fan.


Or....if you use the 280mm in the front, it drops below the midplate line and has a cleaner look. Also allows for keeping the rear fan.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Or....if you use the 280mm in the front, it drops below the midplate line and has a cleaner look. Also allows for keeping the rear fan.


I think this is a good way to go in the Evolv and what I am doing myself. Definitely looks cleaner, less crammed than x2 360s, and performance will be near the same. It also allows for easy pump/res mounting on that front rad, without impeding the top one.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Ok, big image post. These are the designs I am thinking of personally. The default design may end up just being a bit old rectangle or something else. There will like be an option to submit your own design, but nothing is final ATM. Obviously, that would cost a little more. Again, I still do not have final confirmation this is going through so please, don't let your hopes ryzen too far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want something specific shoot me a PM with a sketch (hand or digital or reference image) and I will see what I can come up with in Ps.


Top left or right picture to match existing side slots looks really good assuming the angles match the side slot angles


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Top left or right picture to match existing side slots looks really good assuming the angles match the side slot angles


They should match. The side vents are on an angle so visually they are going to look different. For the centered one I kept the HxL radio close to the side vents. I stuck with 45° angles because they are commonly found in the case.

I should note sharp corners will likely not be possible so the final product would have rounder corners.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Or....if you use the 280mm in the front, it drops below the midplate line and has a cleaner look. Also allows for keeping the rear fan.


Don't you use your HDD space then?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Don't you use your HDD space then?


Yes, but the comment was made in reference to an alternative to using a 360 in the front, so you lose HDD either way.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes, but the comment was made in reference to an alternative to using a 360 in the front, so you lose HDD either way.


My biggest issue with a lot of mid tower cases that support water cooling is that they force you to forgo the HDD's. I'd like to see more of what Fractal and Parvum do where the mass storage is behind the motherboard tray.


----------



## atomicus

I think the only way you don't lose HDD space in the Evolv is with a 240 up front, but then it sits higher and makes 360 placement up top trickier. A 280 will sit lower and allow more space for 360 up top, but then you lose the HDD bays at the front bottom. It's really not a very well thought out case by Phanteks, very much form over function in most respects. Personally, I've gone all SSD and M.2 now, so it doesn't bother me, but I know I'm in the minority there.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> I think the only way you don't lose HDD space in the Evolv is with a 240 up front, but then it sits higher and makes 360 placement up top trickier. A 280 will sit lower and allow more space for 360 up top, but then you lose the HDD bays at the front bottom. It's really not a very well thought out case by Phanteks, very much form over function in most respects. Personally, I've gone all SSD and M.2 now, so it doesn't bother me, but I know I'm in the minority there.


I'd love to do that. I wouldn't be able to do it as well as water cool though as it's just too expensive. I've thought that if I picked up a 1TB SSD then I could use an external drive for all my films and as backup. The 1TB SSD would be for my music, pictures, documents, etc. Then I'd have a 500GB SSD for games (already own that one) and an m.2 250GB for OS and programs. But that is going to be so expensive.


----------



## paskowitz

Guys, there is a single 3.5 HDD mount in the bottom chamber of the Evolv, separate from the two stacked bays near the rad mount. You simple just need to purchase the cage from Phanteks (available on Amazon). It goes in the center of the bottom chamber. You can even fit a p/p 54mm rad and still use this mount.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> They should match. The side vents are on an angle so visually they are going to look different. For the centered one I kept the HxL radio close to the side vents. I stuck with 45° angles because they are commonly found in the case.
> 
> I should note sharp corners will likely not be possible so the final product would have rounder corners.


Either way what you came up with was exactly what I was thinking, when is this all likely to happen? Happy to pay for the extra postage given I live down under


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Guys, there is a single 3.5 HDD mount in the bottom chamber of the Evolv, separate from the two stacked bays near the rad mount. You simple just need to purchase the cage from Phanteks (available on Amazon). It goes in the center of the bottom chamber. You can even fit a p/p 54mm rad and still use this mount.


Thanks for pointing that out. One HDD is really all I absolutely need.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Either way what you came up with was exactly what I was thinking, when is this all likely to happen? Happy to pay for the extra postage given I live down under


It's likely going to take a month before the shop can take this project on. I'll obviously update if anything changes.


----------



## HippoLOL

Hi I'm going to buy this case I went through this whole thread and just to be 100% safe had question about rad setup.

*Note: I don't use mechanical hdd's so I don't need the bottom HDD cage.
*
Will a EK PE 280 rad fit fine in the front without any modding apart from removing the HDD cage and plate?

Also, what would be the thickest 360 Rad I can place in top without modding and paired with 25mm thick Gentle Typhoon fans? I'm guessing 30mm thick rad but was unsure if I could go thicker without it interfering with front 280mm rad .

Lastly can anyone tell me what size this res is in this picture?



Thank you so much for all the amazing info in this thread.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HippoLOL*
> 
> Hi I'm going to buy this case I went through this whole thread and just to be 100% safe had question about rad setup.
> 
> *Note: I don't use mechanical hdd's so I don't need the bottom HDD cage.
> *
> Will a EK PE 280 rad fit fine in the front without any modding apart from removing the HDD cage and plate?
> 
> Also, what would be the thickest 360 Rad I can place in top without modding and paired with 25mm thick Gentle Typhoon fans? I'm guessing 30mm thick rad but was unsure if I could go thicker without it interfering with front 280mm rad .
> 
> Lastly can anyone tell me what size this res is in this picture?
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you so much for all the amazing info in this thread.


Top radiator thickness depends on your RAM, more or less.

The 280 up front fits fine.

I think that's a 200mm long EK Res.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HippoLOL*
> 
> Hi I'm going to buy this case I went through this whole thread and just to be 100% safe had question about rad setup.
> 
> *Note: I don't use mechanical hdd's so I don't need the bottom HDD cage.
> *
> Will a EK PE 280 rad fit fine in the front without any modding apart from removing the HDD cage and plate?
> 
> Also, what would be the thickest 360 Rad I can place in top without modding and paired with 25mm thick Gentle Typhoon fans? I'm guessing 30mm thick rad but was unsure if I could go thicker without it interfering with front 280mm rad .
> 
> Lastly can anyone tell me what size this res is in this picture?
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you so much for all the amazing info in this thread.


Should be 30mm but you have to remove the bank fan. Outside of tall RAM clearance, 280 up top and 360 in front is actually a better combo. That way you can make the 360 (the larger rad) thick if you want. If you haven't purchased your rads, Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS or GTX is your best bet.


----------



## HippoLOL

I love Hardware Labs still have my SR1-560. Sadly they are hard to come by in Australia now with pccasegear only stocking a very limited number of their rads (mostly 120, 140, or 240).

Also, I noticed one of the builds the person used a 360 rad up top (EK PE 360) yet also had the back fan.

Here is link: http://www.overclock.net/t/1598825/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-atx/70#post_25617616

I know they modded the front to fit the 240 RAD at correct hight, I'm guessing I can't do such a mod for 280mm?

As for RAM I'll be going something like G.Skill Ripjaws V which is 42mm in height.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HippoLOL*
> 
> I love Hardware Labs still have my SR1-560. Sadly they are hard to come by in Australia now with pccasegear only stocking a very limited number of their rads (mostly 120, 140, or 240).
> 
> Also, I noticed one of the builds the person used a 360 rad up top (EK PE 360) yet also had the back fan.
> 
> Here is link: http://www.overclock.net/t/1598825/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-atx/70#post_25617616
> 
> I know they modded the front to fit the 240 RAD at correct hight, I'm guessing I can't do such a mod for 280mm?
> 
> As for RAM I'll be going something like G.Skill Ripjaws V which is 42mm in height.


That because he has a custom mounted 240 up front.

It would be really tight with a 280 front 360 top because of the default mounting positions. Personally, I would do EK (assuming you can get EK in AUS) CE 280 up top and 360 PE up front. That being said, I understand why people like 360s up top as it looks a little more natural.

I think the RAM height limit with 280mm installed is ~50mm, so you should be good.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> That because he has a custom mounted 240 up front.
> 
> It would be really tight with a 280 front 360 top because of the default mounting positions. Personally, I would do EK (assuming you can get EK in AUS) CE 280 up top and 360 PE up front. *That being said, I understand why people like 360s up top as it looks a little more natural.
> *
> I think the RAM height limit with 280mm installed is ~50mm, so you should be good.


Yes, it looks much more natural. I would flip those rads - 360 up top, 280 in the front.


----------



## HippoLOL

I wonder if I drilled new mounting holes for 280MM Front RAD to lower it even more would that allow a thicker 360 RAD? I also own a RX360 V.2 which with Gentle Typhoons is 88mm thick and still to this day offers amazing performance at low RPM.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HippoLOL*
> 
> I wonder if I drilled new mounting holes for 280MM Front RAD to lower it even more would that allow a thicker 360 RAD? I also own a RX360 V.2 which with Gentle Typhoons is 88mm thick and still to this day offers amazing performance at low RPM.


Should be easy enough since that metal is super thin. If you want, you can give me the dimensions of the rads you want to use and I can measure inside my Evolv (it is disassembled ATM) and see if it would fit.


----------



## atomicus

I would be careful about a 280 up front... I have an XSPC EX280 in mine and it JUST fit. It's 143mm wide and the narrowest rad I could find. The Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis 280 GTS definitely doesn't fit, I tried that first. The problem is the opening in the PSU shroud. The EK CE 280 is 145mm so I don't know if even that would fit. I've not tried it, but I am not sure there is 2mm extra space looking at how tight my EX280 is in there. Of course, you could mod it fairly easily if required, but not everyone will want to do this. Any 360 rad will fit fine, even the HW 360 GTS is only 133mm wide, and that's one of the widest you can get.


----------



## nycgtr

Running 2 360 gts. I got the rads just for this case. It's a bit tight. You don't need push pull on these rads. You can still fit a slim fan on the back.


----------



## HippoLOL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Should be easy enough since that metal is super thin. If you want, you can give me the dimensions of the rads you want to use and I can measure inside my Evolv (it is disassembled ATM) and see if it would fit.


Thank you so much! These are the rads I'm looking to use.

Front:

EK PE 280

320 x 145 x 45mm (L x W x H)

Top:

XSPC RX360 (I currently own this & would love to reuse it)

400 x 124 x 63mm (L x W x H)

Other Alternatives

EK XE 360

400mm x 128mm x 60mm (L x W x H)

EK PE 360

400 x 130 x 38mm (L x W x H)

Width of fans to be used on top rad 25mm.


----------



## nycgtr

I have the rx360 as well. If you mount the rx on top. You will only be able to drop a 240 in the basement. I highly would advise using the rx on top. It's to thick of a rad to be in that restrictive environment. If you were to do push pull on it, you would need remove the beams on top to mount a fan (which would cripple that fan imo). Otherwise push pull on the rad bracket you would be hitting in the middle of the cpu block.


----------



## nycgtr

Here are some of my previous arragnements. One is with a 280 ut 60 and one is with a RX240. You can see the problems it will create with a front rad if you were to go with a 360.




I've gone thru hell with this case.


----------



## HippoLOL

Thanks for the advice. That RX 360 in front looks like a beast!







Big thank you to everyone that is helping. This build won't be rushed so I want to be as informed as possible.

I plan to do the front intake spacer mod & the blocking off the top area mod:

http://phanteks.com/forum/showthread.php?550-Airflow-improvements-your-Evolv-ATX-Tempered-Glass-case-Two-(new-)-easy-tricks!!!

Also, once we get a nice modded Top that allows more airflow I'll order one of those too.

nycgtr, could you tell me how much height is left from the top of the RX360 (mounted to the front) to the upper level rad mount? Looks like a 30mm rad might be able to just squeeze in.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HippoLOL*
> 
> I love Hardware Labs still have my SR1-560. Sadly they are hard to come by in Australia now with pccasegear only stocking a very limited number of their rads (mostly 120, 140, or 240).
> 
> Also, I noticed one of the builds the person used a 360 rad up top (EK PE 360) yet also had the back fan.
> 
> Here is link: http://www.overclock.net/t/1598825/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-atx/70#post_25617616
> 
> I know they modded the front to fit the 240 RAD at correct hight, I'm guessing I can't do such a mod for 280mm?
> 
> As for RAM I'll be going something like G.Skill Ripjaws V which is 42mm in height.


That person was me lol no major mods to do what I did just remove or cut the front lower removable section, not very hard. You might be able to squeeze a 280mm in the front if you aren't using mechanical hard drives. EK rads maybe middle of the road in terms of performance but easy to get from PC casegear in Australia. The only reason I positioned the 240mm where it is was to clear the top rad and so that I could fit the pump/res combo bracket in such a way that it wouldn't look weird


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HippoLOL*
> 
> Thanks for the advice. That RX 360 in front looks like a beast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Big thank you to everyone that is helping. This build won't be rushed so I want to be as informed as possible.
> 
> I plan to do the front intake spacer mod & the blocking off the top area mod:
> 
> http://phanteks.com/forum/showthread.php?550-Airflow-improvements-your-Evolv-ATX-Tempered-Glass-case-Two-(new-)-easy-tricks!!!
> 
> Also, once we get a nice modded Top that allows more airflow I'll order one of those too.
> 
> nycgtr, could you tell me how much height is left from the top of the RX360 (mounted to the front) to the upper level rad mount? Looks like a 30mm rad might be able to just squeeze in.


I got the rad mounted into my enthoo primo now so it be hard to take out. But considering it's the same height as the 360 gts. You got about 2.5 inches to the top rad bracket. You can see it in my photo it's not much.


----------



## HippoLOL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> That person was me lol no major mods to do what I did just remove or cut the front lower removable section, not very hard. You might be able to squeeze a 280mm in the front if you aren't using mechanical hard drives. EK rads maybe middle of the road in terms of performance but easy to get from PC casegear in Australia. The only reason I positioned the 240mm where it is was to clear the top rad and so that I could fit the pump/res combo bracket in such a way that it wouldn't look weird


Haha cheers mate! Yes I was going through the thread from page 1 when I noticed your wonderful build.

I don't use Mechanical HDD's have not since 2009 so losing the HDD cage is fine with me.







Also, I emailed pc case gear asking them if they ever plan to stock more Black Ice Nemesis 360 stuff since they are suppose to be the offical distributor in Australia.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I got the rad mounted into my enthoo primo now so it be hard to take out. But considering it's the same height as the 360 gts. You got about 2.5 inches to the top rad bracket. You can see it in my photo it's not much.


Cheers. If it is indeed 2.5 inches that means a EK PE 360 up top (38mm + 25mm fans) + RX 360 Front would be possible by just .5 of a mm lol. Hopefully Paskowitz can measure that for me to double check.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HippoLOL*
> 
> Haha cheers mate! Yes I was going through the thread from page 1 when I noticed your wonderful build.
> 
> I don't use Mechanical HDD's have not since 2009 so losing the HDD cage is fine with me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I emailed pc case gear asking them if they ever plan to stock more Black Ice Nemesis 360 stuff since they are suppose to be the offical distributor in Australia.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers. If it is indeed 2.5 inches that means a EK PE 360 up top (38mm + 25mm fans) + RX 360 Front would be possible by just .5 of a mm lol. Hopefully Paskowitz can measure that for me to double check.


Yeah most of the stuff for my build came from PC casegear as they are only 20 minutes from my place and about the only place locally that stock water cooling gear. That said you are going about this the right way by doing your homework so to speak, there are many very knowledgeable members on this forum in various areas of building a p.c so you have come to the right place


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HippoLOL*
> 
> Haha cheers mate! Yes I was going through the thread from page 1 when I noticed your wonderful build.
> 
> I don't use Mechanical HDD's have not since 2009 so losing the HDD cage is fine with me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I emailed pc case gear asking them if they ever plan to stock more Black Ice Nemesis 360 stuff since they are suppose to be the offical distributor in Australia.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers. If it is indeed 2.5 inches that means a EK PE 360 up top (38mm + 25mm fans) + RX 360 Front would be possible by just .5 of a mm lol. Hopefully Paskowitz can measure that for me to double check.


Hmm not too sure about that. You might find yourself a bit off. You would have to first mount the top loosely, so you can slide it as far back as possible. (The edge lip of the case prevents it from going in as far back as possible. Then try to fit the front rad in. Now I have seen someone else squeeze fans inside on the 360 gts and it rubbed against the other set of fans on their top 360s. Adding the fans on the inside essentially makes the rad 55mm thick which is about what the rx rads are. It can guess that it will fit but I wouldnt be surprised if it didn't. I know the ek 360 pes are longer than gts by a few mm.


----------



## HippoLOL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Yeah most of the stuff for my build came from PC casegear as they are only 20 minutes from my place and about the only place locally that stock water cooling gear. That said you are going about this the right way by doing your homework so to speak, there are many very knowledgeable members on this forum in various areas of building a p.c so you have come to the right place


Yeah been water cooling since 2009 (First W.C build was in Cosmos S which i still have in the garage lol) & one thing I learned is you can never do enough research!!! I'm in Gold Coast but Umart here also carry EK stock I noticed. You're very lucky to live so close to pccasegear.









I've been researching cases for the past two months and overall considering good and bad I truly believe the Evolv ATX T.G is two "mods" away from being almost the perfect mass produced Mid Tower on the market for W.C. Looks stunning & uses thick quality materials. Thank god I can finally chuck my 900D in the bin rofl what a lump of **** case paper thin trash that when it came out cost me too much.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Hmm not too sure about that. You might find yourself a bit off. You would have to first mount the top loosely, so you can slide it as far back as possible. (The edge lip of the case prevents it from going in as far back as possible. Then try to fit the front rad in. Now I have seen someone else squeeze fans inside on the 360 gts and it rubbed against the other set of fans on their top 360s. Adding the fans on the inside essentially makes the rad 55mm thick which is about what the rx rads are. It can guess that it will fit but I wouldnt be surprised if it didn't. I know the ek 360 pes are longer than gts by a few mm.


I found this thread on reddit:


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/3rfd5b/first_watercooled_pc_two_360_rads_in_an_enthoo/

He used a RX360 in the front and a Alphacool ST30 (with 25mm eloop fans) in the top while pushing back the rad and removing the exhaust fan the key is 360 rad length going by Extremerigs measurements the Alphacool ST30 real world length is 395mm. I wonder if 400mm length buffer is possible.

All you owners are awesome with the help!


----------



## Baylenkm

So, I just finished my build and have also noticed the lack of airflow, with the front panel on my idle is 38-39c ,with it off 33c. I haven't even tested it with ant top panel adjustments.

I am going to have my father (who owns a metal fab shop) water jet perforations on the from and top panels. Ill post some pics and temp results when I get them back and let me know if its something you guys might be interested in.

Here is my rig at the moment


----------



## HippoLOL

Found someone in Australia selling a used Black Ice Nemesis 360 GTX should I buy it for the front rad?

Edit: Baylenkm, keep us update on the top panel mod!


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HippoLOL*
> 
> Found someone in Australia selling a used Black Ice Nemesis 360 GTX should I buy it for the front rad?
> 
> Edit: Baylenkm, keep us update on the top panel mod!


Imo it's the best rad for this case. If you can get two get two.


----------



## HippoLOL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Imo it's the best rad for this case. If you can get two get two.


Ended up paying $68 USD he had never used the rad lucky I found it.


----------



## Scottland

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Running 2 360 gts. I got the rads just for this case. It's a bit tight. You don't need push pull on these rads. You can still fit a slim fan on the back.
> 
> [ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2977822/width/350/height/700[/]
> [ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2977823/width/350/height/700[/]
> [ ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2977825/width/350/height/700[/]


Are they normal HLW 360's or xflow?


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HippoLOL*
> 
> Ended up paying $68 USD he had never used the rad lucky I found it.


I have two of these rads in my case. i7-7700K and GTX1070 Strix.....and water temps have yet to climb above 90F during stress testing or gaming.

I did the top bracket mod, however, to get the fans out if sight in the upper compartment. It was deffinitley a tight fit with both of these, but that is mainly due to my full size Noiseblocker as my exhaust fan.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scottland*
> 
> Are they normal HLW 360's or xflow?


regular not xflow. The xflow 360 performance is bad for the 360 model. For the 280 model the xflow is better.


----------



## Scottland

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> regular not xflow. The xflow 360 performance is bad for the 360 model. For the 280 model the xflow is better.


Thanks, I might end up going 360 up top and 240/280 in front. With the 360 up top is there enough clearance for taller ram i.e. Corsair Dominator?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scottland*
> 
> Thanks, I might end up going 360 up top and 240/280 in front. With the 360 up top is there enough clearance for taller ram i.e. Corsair Dominator?


RAM is only a potential issue with 280mm rads.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scottland*
> 
> Thanks, I might end up going 360 up top and 240/280 in front. With the 360 up top is there enough clearance for taller ram i.e. Corsair Dominator?


I had a 280 (85mm with fans) that covered half the ram being visible. These were the trident Zs which I believe are a bit shorter than dominator.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

I am running Corsair LPX with a 280mm top radiator and i can fit a finger between the ram and the radiator. I don't see any reason to get tall ram since LPX is available in any speed up to 4266mhz. The exception is the sexy G.Skill RGB.


----------



## atomicus

I'm not sure where to put the fans up top, given I will be getting my top panel cut at some point. In that situation, could fans be in that top section, out of sight, or in push, or in pull. I will have as intake regardless.


----------



## ookiie

Hello everyone. So I purchased this case about two months ago, and while I love the looks and build quality I hate how bad the airflow is. I'm planing to go hard tubing and I'm considering the options to maybe increase cooling performance by tweaking some things here and there. Right now I'm cooling i7 6700k OC 4.6/1.31v and RX480 OC 1380/2200 that should produce around 350w all together with other components. I'm using EK 240 XTX, EK 240 Slim and Ek 120mm standard PE edition and with vardar fans around 1400rpm I get around 15 degrees celsius delta T from ambient while gaming for around an hour. I sealed off all the holes at the top, so air cant get back to the case and I even cut a hole at the top panel (there's now an aluminium mesh on it, the picture is few day old) and that dropped temperatures for about 5 degrees or maybe around 7-9 if I remove the mesh. And yes that means my delta T was around 20 degrees before the mod.
I'm now thinking of maybe removing the 120mm radiator and put front radiator in push pull configuration while top radiator stays push exhaust and a single airflow fan at the back as exhaust, do you think that could improve temperatures?
Or maybe front rad as it is (or push pull) and top push intake and only one airflow fan as exhaust? but I believe that would just trap a lot of hot air in the case and could be counter productive.
I can see a lot of you tried many different configs in this case and maybe someone have any better idea on how to improve my temps as this right now is really bad as my CPU temps are around same level as they were with a cheap sub 40€ air cooler with way more noise being produced.
I've tried all possible fan mounting options with the setup I have now except front being exhaust.. this means front+top intakes and back exhaust.. pretty much same as it is now just more dust. And front and back intake and top exhaust which was much worse.
I can get around 10 DT with fans of full speed but that's 3x2250rpm (Front and back) and 2x1850rpm (top), while only the XTX should be able to handle around 300W alone to maintain 10 delta T with fans on 1800rpm.
I'm really desperate as I'm throwing more and more money in liquid cooling to just get more noise and no performance increase.
I know my radiator setup is not perfect but I migrated from NZXT s340 and this is what I got. I added the fat XTX rad and a better DDC 3.2pwm pump (had the budget ek SPC before) in this case and I got pretty much ZERO improvements on temps (but hey, at least it looks dope







).
I've opened a thread when I got the case in this section, but I didn't know it's the airflow problem back then, so now I've decided to post here too, hoping some EVOLV user have any suggestions.

Here are some pics:


----------



## Baylenkm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ookiie*
> 
> Hello everyone. So I purchased this case about two months ago, and while I love the looks and build quality I hate how bad the airflow is. I'm planing to go hard tubing and I'm considering the options to maybe increase cooling performance by tweaking some things here and there. Right now I'm cooling i7 6700k OC 4.6/1.31v and RX480 OC 1380/2200 that should produce around 350w all together with other components. I'm using EK 240 XTX, EK 240 Slim and Ek 120mm standard PE edition and with vardar fans around 1400rpm I get around 15 degrees celsius delta T from ambient while gaming for around an hour. I sealed off all the holes at the top, so air cant get back to the case and I even cut a hole at the top panel (there's now an aluminium mesh on it, the picture is few day old) and that dropped temperatures for about 5 degrees or maybe around 7-9 if I remove the mesh. And yes that means my delta T was around 20 degrees before the mod.
> I'm now thinking of maybe removing the 120mm radiator and put front radiator in push pull configuration while top radiator stays push exhaust and a single airflow fan at the back as exhaust, do you think that could improve temperatures?
> Or maybe front rad as it is (or push pull) and top push intake and only one airflow fan as exhaust? but I believe that would just trap a lot of hot air in the case and could be counter productive.
> I can see a lot of you tried many different configs in this case and maybe someone have any better idea on how to improve my temps as this right now is really bad as my CPU temps are around same level as they were with a cheap sub 40€ air cooler with way more noise being produced.
> I've tried all possible fan mounting options with the setup I have now except front being exhaust.. this means front+top intakes and back exhaust.. pretty much same as it is now just more dust. And front and back intake and top exhaust which was much worse.
> I can get around 10 DT with fans of full speed but that's 3x2250rpm (Front and back) and 2x1850rpm (top), while only the XTX should be able to handle around 300W alone to maintain 10 delta T with fans on 1800rpm.
> I'm really desperate as I'm throwing more and more money in liquid cooling to just get more noise and no performance increase.
> I know my radiator setup is not perfect but I migrated from NZXT s340 and this is what I got. I added the fat XTX rad and a better DDC 3.2pwm pump (had the budget ek SPC before) in this case and I got pretty much ZERO improvements on temps (but hey, at least it looks dope
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> I've opened a thread when I got the case in this section, but I didn't know it's the airflow problem back then, so now I've decided to post here too, hoping some EVOLV user have any suggestions.
> 
> Here are some pics:


Have you tried/tested your temp delta with the front panel removed? In my "testing" I have found that the front panel really restricts intake. even if you pull it off and have it resting in the mount holes instead of being pushed in and secured, it seems to drop idle temps by +- 4-6c. Im planning on having perforations water jetted into the top and front, hopefully that will address the airflow issues or at least improve it.


----------



## HippoLOL

Hi ookiie I have a few ideas.

- Remove the 120mm rad from the loop.

- Perform the front panel spacer mod which is ultra simple as show in the thread here this is a must do especially considering how thick your front rad is: http://phanteks.com/forum/showthread.php?550-Airflow-improvements-your-Evolv-ATX-Tempered-Glass-case-Two-(new-)-easy-tricks!!!

- Reposition the res like the picture below to allow better airflow from front.



- Check these benchmarks of the 360 ver of your front rad as you can see you notice this rad performs better in push pull setup so it's worth testing it out as well if the other ideas don't help. http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/03/05/ek-xtx-360-radiator-review/5/

Since you are using soft tubing at the moment you can play around a few setups without much issues.


----------



## ookiie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HippoLOL*
> 
> Hi ookiie I have a few ideas.
> 
> - Remove the 120mm rad from the loop.
> 
> - Perform the front panel spacer mod which is ultra simple as show in the thread here this is a must do especially considering how thick your front rad is: http://phanteks.com/forum/showthread.php?550-Airflow-improvements-your-Evolv-ATX-Tempered-Glass-case-Two-(new-)-easy-tricks!!!
> 
> - Reposition the res like the picture below to allow better airflow from front.
> 
> 
> 
> - Check these benchmarks of the 360 ver of your front rad as you can see you notice this rad performs better in push pull setup so it's worth testing it out as well if the other ideas don't help. http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/03/05/ek-xtx-360-radiator-review/5/
> 
> Since you are using soft tubing at the moment you can play around a few setups without much issues.


Thanks for the idea for front panel mod.. I was thinking of mounting longer screws but this with rubber washers is really clean. I had some ideas if I remove the 120mm rad I can mount the res at the back as it's easier for filling if it's vertical. I saw that review of the 360mm xtx.. it will probably add just as much performace going push pull that I will loose with removing the 120mm rad.. I just hope airflow will improve so temps actually go down.. I will try rearanging the loop in the weekend and I'll post my results


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baylenkm*
> 
> Have you tried/tested your temp delta with the front panel removed? In my "testing" I have found that the front panel really restricts intake. even if you pull it off and have it resting in the mount holes instead of being pushed in and secured, it seems to drop idle temps by +- 4-6c. Im planning on having perforations water jetted into the top and front, hopefully that will address the airflow issues or at least improve it.


So the front panel I used the other screws in the box and gave myself an addtion 3-4mm clearance. It's helped a bit for me but it's somewhat negligible. My biggest hindrance is the top lid as that effects my temps by up to 4-5c. However, I do not have bad temps with minimal fan noise. You need to remove the rear rad as it's not needed and not doing much. You need to make sure your front intake is actually getting air thru nicely and your venting well. For a thick rad to work well you need push/pull. This case is very sensitive to rad choice due to it's air flow and size restrictions. Seeing you wanna run push pull in the front (keep in mind your really gonna challenge your gpu length unless you re-position the res). I have tried many different rads in this case. Most of them were thick rads as that's all I had. However, swapping to 2 good slim rads made the best improvement. I am under d10 with 1 set of fans on each rad. My fan speed never goes over 1500rpm. It sucks at times to reinvest hardware you already bought or bought many times but it's just works. Look at the people with the best temps in this thread, you will see they all have slim low-medium fpi.


----------



## doyll

What @nycgtr said. The front is a little restrictive, but not as much as many other cases. The gap all around the front is a lot of airflow area, especially because it has no grill or mesh to restrict it more like most front vents do. If your radiator & fans are giving you 4-6c better temps it is more likely a radiator or fan issue than front vent area.

The top is restrictive, but removing the mesh grills on top vents

*Enthoo Evolv ATX top vents*
The top has vents in the ends as well as side vents.
End Vents:
Ends have 37x open slots 5.5mm x 12.9 mm = 26.3 sq cm of end airflow area.
Side Vents:
10x vents 5 mm x 61.6 mm = 30.8 sq cm side vent area - grill mesh blockage
Mesh has cc 0.85 mm holes with 1.6 mm spacing, so about cc 20% open = 6.1 sq cm of airflow area from 10x stock side vents

Stock venting with mesh has an open area of about 32.4 sq cm
With stock mesh removed it is 56.8 sq cm.
Removing the mesh increases top vent area by about 24.5 sq cm

By comparison a single 120mm fan has about 100 sq cm of open area.

Keep in mind that if top top fan radiator mount is used, all open areas not having fans must be sealed so air being pushed into the top cannot circle back down into case.

The simplest way to get more top airflow is to remove the 4 top mounting screws (2x in back and 2x in front ), pop the top loose and rest it back on the clip mounts.
This raised top 5.5 mm creating a 3mm gap on sides and 5.5mm on front. Case is 505 mm deep x 23.5 mm wide
0.5cm x 23.5cm x 2 = 23.5 sq cm
0.3cm x 50.5cm x 2 = 30.3 sq cm
Additiona l top vent = 53.8 sq cm
53.8 sq cm additional vent by simply removing top mounting screws and setting top on latches.

*32.4 sq cm* stock top venting.
*56.8 sq cm* airflow area with side vent mesh removed
*110.6 sq cm* airflow area with side vent mesh removed and top set on latches

Only draw back is to use top on/off switch, top must be latched back down or lifted off.
A 5.5mm spacer could be added by putting a screw into the push button in top, but thern if someone pushed too hard on the top micro-switch could be broken. I would not recommend it unless the latches in top of case are also spaced up the same amount.

And of course seal all holes not having fans in them in the top fan / radiator mount.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13240_20#post_25198233

Here is link to how to remove top and block holes in radiator bracket.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13700_20#post_25268315

I had to space the front out 15mm to approx. double the front airflow area .. and while component temps did improve a few degrees, there was no dramatic change.

Here is link to how to remove top and block holes in radiator bracket.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13700_20#post_25268315


----------



## aberrero

Does it make sense to put a fanless radiator at the top of the case? Should it be slim or fat if it is fanless? I want a totally silent system at idle so I'm thinking a fanless radiator up top and an active radiator on the front that only turns on under load.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aberrero*
> 
> Does it make sense to put a fanless radiator at the top of the case? Should it be slim or fat if it is fanless? I want a totally silent system at idle so I'm thinking a fanless radiator up top and an active radiator on the front that only turns on under load.


What hardware will you be using? And what size radiator?

EDIT: Also, your pump will likely be louder than fans at low RPM's.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aberrero*
> 
> Does it make sense to put a fanless radiator at the top of the case? Should it be slim or fat if it is fanless? I want a totally silent system at idle so I'm thinking a fanless radiator up top and an active radiator on the front that only turns on under load.


From what I've seen the only way to get an (almost) completely silent system is to either use a custom built chassis with heavy padding and very low TDP parts with passive heatsinks and one or two precisely placed low RPM fans, or having an overkill amount of radiators, 600 RPM fans, two pumps running at low RPM, and no HDD's. Complete silence is a rather challenging project to undertake.


----------



## aberrero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> What hardware will you be using? And what size radiator?
> 
> EDIT: Also, your pump will likely be louder than fans at low RPM's.


Yes, I am looking for recommendations for a very quiet pump. I'm doing a ryzen build with one (maybe two) GTX 1080s. My current system of a 4690k and 1080 can run fanless with air cooling on the card and a 240mm AIO on the CPU. The card spins up to do anything 3D but the CPU can handle moderate workloads without fans. Ryzen is more efficient than intels chips, and with some undercooking I think this can be very doable.


----------



## aberrero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> From what I've seen the only way to get an (almost) completely silent system is to either use a custom built chassis with heavy padding and very low TDP parts with passive heatsinks and one or two precisely placed low RPM fans, or having an overkill amount of radiators, 600 RPM fans, two pumps running at low RPM, and no HDD's. Complete silence is a rather challenging project to undertake.


I actually already have a completely silent system as i was describing in my other post just now, save for the inaudible H100 AIO pump. My PSU is passive up to around 500W and I have 2.5TB of SSDs.

What makes it easy is that my Corsair 250D has the video card mounted vertically, so it is basically in contact with the outside. Same for the AIO on the other side of the case. Neither of them dumps any heat inside the case at idle. With the enthoo I will have to deal with the video card heating up my case, but the CPU on a radiator alone should be able to dissipate a lot up top. The case itself will help spread the heat around.


----------



## aberrero

By the way, this is my current placeholder build until my Ryzen components get in. It's a bit... minimalistic


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aberrero*
> 
> I actually already have a completely silent system as i was describing in my other post just now, save for the inaudible H100 AIO pump. My PSU is passive up to around 500W and I have 2.5TB of SSDs.
> 
> What makes it easy is that my Corsair 250D has the video card mounted vertically, so it is basically in contact with the outside. Same for the AIO on the other side of the case. Neither of them dumps any heat inside the case at idle. With the enthoo I will have to deal with the video card heating up my case, but the CPU on a radiator alone should be able to dissipate a lot up top. The case itself will help spread the heat around.


I've never tested an inaudible AIO pump before. That's a rare sight. Most air coolers are usually quieter than AIO's in my experience.


----------



## aberrero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> I've never tested an inaudible AIO pump before. That's a rare sight. Most air coolers are usually quieter than AIO's in my experience.


in a closed case, at more than a few centimeters away, I can't hear it. I understand why you're skeptical, the H90 for example was incredibly loud; I ended up getting rid of it. The sound could be brought in check by taking it down to 9v too, but no need with the H100. The new NZXT X52 is supposed to be one of the quietest yet.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aberrero*
> 
> in a closed case, at more than a few centimeters away, I can't hear it. I understand why you're skeptical, the H90 for example was incredibly loud; I ended up getting rid of it. The sound could be brought in check by taking it down to 9v too, but no need with the H100. The new NZXT X52 is supposed to be one of the quietest yet.


I've heard the new NZXT AIO's are pretty quiet. I'm currently using a Corsair AIO and it's pants. I'll be going back to air likely.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> I've heard the new NZXT AIO's are pretty quiet. I'm currently using a Corsair AIO and it's pants. I'll be going back to air likely.


be quiet! Silent Loop are quiet. I'm using a 280mm now .. it is the only AIO (not CLC) I have ever used that spend more than a a day in one of my systems .. only long enough to test and remove.

As for silent builds, you might be interested in this video of extremely quiet system .. like quieter than heart beats.








This is actual sound testing of the computer.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> be quiet! Silent Loop are quiet. I'm using a 280mm now .. it is the only AIO (not CLC) I have ever used that spend more than a a day in one of my systems .. only long enough to test and remove.
> 
> As for silent builds, you might be interested in this video of extremely quiet system .. like quieter than heart beats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is actual sound testing of the computer.


Yeah, that's a great video. It's what I based my opinion on actually. I've always wanted to build a chassis like that but still somehow using high-end components.

I love BeQuiet! fans and I've heard (pun not intended) that their pump is also remarkably quiet. I had hoped the Fractal Kelvin would be the first truly quiet AIO, but it was one of the louder ones. I'd definitely consider the Silent Loop if I were buying an AIO. I haven't completely written them off, but I do think a Le Grand Macho RT or NH-D15S would fit my needs better.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Yeah, that's a great video. It's what I based my opinion on actually. I've always wanted to build a chassis like that but still somehow using high-end components.
> 
> I love BeQuiet! fans and I've heard (pun not intended) that their pump is also remarkably quiet. I had hoped the Fractal Kelvin would be the first truly quiet AIO, but it was one of the louder ones. I'd definitely consider the Silent Loop if I were buying an AIO. I haven't completely written them off, but I do think a Le Grand Macho RT or NH-D15S would fit my needs better.


I will continue to use air coolers. be quiet! Silent Loop is quiet and cools a little better than top air, but only marginally.

Here the be quiet! Silent Loop 280mm is £134.99. Silent Loop 240mm is £119.99.
While best air coolers are betweeen £50.00 - £77.00
Makes it very hard for me to justify spending twice as much to have similar cooling.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> I've heard the new NZXT AIO's are pretty quiet. I'm currently using a Corsair AIO and it's pants. I'll be going back to air likely.


You do realize that they are the same AiO with different fans and logos......well, if you are using one of the Asetek made Corsair, if you are using a CoolIt made one, well, you have my condolences.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aberrero*
> 
> I actually already have a completely silent system as i was describing in my other post just now, save for the inaudible H100 AIO pump. My PSU is passive up to around 500W and I have 2.5TB of SSDs.
> 
> What makes it easy is that my Corsair 250D has the video card mounted vertically, so it is basically in contact with the outside. Same for the AIO on the other side of the case. Neither of them dumps any heat inside the case at idle. With the enthoo I will have to deal with the video card heating up my case, but the CPU on a radiator alone should be able to dissipate a lot up top. The case itself will help spread the heat around.


So....you are striving for a silent system by using a bad pump and incredibly inefficient aluminum high fpi rad that is designed to rely on high airflow to operate? Doesn't that sound just a wee bit counterproductive?


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You do realize that they are the same AiO with different fans and logos......well, if you are using one of the Asetek made Corsair, if you are using a CoolIt made one, well, you have my condolences.
> So....you are striving for a silent system by using a bad pump and incredibly inefficient aluminum high fpi rad that is designed to rely on high airflow to operate? Doesn't that sound just a wee bit counterproductive?


Some use PWM to allow the pump to reduce speed which at least quietens the system when idle. And no two Asetek pumps are made alike in my experience. Either the pump is not competent enough in general or the quality control is not tight enough as many units come noisier than others due to air being trapped inside the CPU block that won't settle in the reservoir or wasn't bled before shipping. It's like dead pixels in a monitor: sometimes you get a good one, sometimes you don't.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I will continue to use air coolers. be quiet! Silent Loop is quiet and cools a little better than top air, but only marginally.
> 
> Here the be quiet! Silent Loop 280mm is £134.99. Silent Loop 240mm is £119.99.
> While best air coolers are betweeen £50.00 - £77.00
> Makes it very hard for me to justify spending twice as much to have similar cooling.


I agree, yeah. The Silent Loop looks amazing (though I would prefer braided tubing) and can fit ITX motherboards, but in other situations I reckon big air or big water is the way to go.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Dual 12v D5 pumps on setting #3 or 60% PWM paired with a few 280mm radiators at 700rpm should be pretty silent.


----------



## aberrero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You do realize that they are the same AiO with different fans and logos......well, if you are using one of the Asetek made Corsair, if you are using a CoolIt made one, well, you have my condolences.
> So....you are striving for a silent system by using a bad pump and incredibly inefficient aluminum high fpi rad that is designed to rely on high airflow to operate? Doesn't that sound just a wee bit counterproductive?


Well I got my H100 for $65 back in the day and it still works. It's great value for money. And while I'm sure there's a lottery for AIO pumps, mine is genuinely quiet. I can run CPU stress tests for about 7 minutes on an overvolted 1155 before needing to turn a fan on. That doesn't sound counterproductive to me.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aberrero*
> 
> Well I got my H100 for $65 back in the day and it still works. It's great value for money. And while I'm sure there's a lottery for AIO pumps, mine is genuinely quiet. I can run CPU stress tests for about 7 minutes on an overvolted 1155 before needing to turn a fan on. That doesn't sound counterproductive to me.


What year was this 'in the day' and what were top tier air coolers costing at that time?
What does 'stress tests for about 7 minutes ...' have to do with how good a cooler it is? All that show is how long it takes all the coolant to heat up to the point you have to turn on the fans to keep it cool. At 3' distance what is the db reading of your 'genuinely quiet'? H100?

I used to do a similar test on a much hotter running CPU under a PH-TC14PE .. it took 3-5 minutes before I needed to turn on the fans at 75c and less then a minute to cool back down to 60c. That was on a i7 920 @ 3.9GHz in a 23c room on a horizontal motherboard system .. I mention that because passive coolng with cooler fins horizontal is not as good as if fins are vertical .. radiators work better passively horizontal than vertical.







THis system was less than 30dB(A) sound level up to 60% load all cores and only 33dB(A) at 100% load at 1 meter .. just enough to be able to hear the fans and know system is working extremely hard. I say less than 30dB because room ambient sound level is 30dB(A).


----------



## aberrero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What year was this 'in the day' and what were top tier air coolers costing at that time?
> What does 'stress tests for about 7 minutes ...' have to do with how good a cooler it is? All that show is how long it takes all the coolant to heat up to the point you have to turn on the fans to keep it cool. At 3' distance what is the db reading of your 'genuinely quiet'? H100?
> 
> I used to do a similar test on a much hotter running CPU under a PH-TC14PE .. it took 3-5 minutes before I needed to turn on the fans at 75c and less then a minute to cool back down to 60c. That was on a i7 920 @ 3.9GHz in a 23c room on a horizontal motherboard system .. I mention that because passive coolng with cooler fins horizontal is not as good as if fins are vertical .. radiators work better passively horizontal than vertical.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THis system was less than 30dB(A) sound level up to 60% load all cores and only 33dB(A) at 100% load at 1 meter .. just enough to be able to hear the fans and know system is working extremely hard. I say less than 30dB because room ambient sound level is 30dB(A).


I didn't look at high end air coolers at the time. This was 2014 I think. Anyway, air coolers don't make sense for my Mini-ITX system. They would dump 150W of heat inside my case, and I'd need to get a bunch of 80mm fans to get it out. My case also can only fit 92mm coolers.

The 7 minute test means that for 90% of the tasks I do on my system, the computer is completely silent (this was verical btw). The fans never need to ramp up and there is no noise of any kind that I can hear. The other 10%, I have high end fans running at 800rpm that keep it cool. I usually don't use the power/HDD LEDs on my case, and the only way id know if my computer was on is by looking at the scroll wheel LED on my mouse.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aberrero*
> 
> I didn't look at high end air coolers at the time. This was 2014 I think. Anyway, air coolers don't make sense for my Mini-ITX system. They would dump 150W of heat inside my case, and I'd need to get a bunch of 80mm fans to get it out. My case also can only fit 92mm coolers.
> 
> The 7 minute test means that for 90% of the tasks I do on my system, the computer is completely silent (this was verical btw). The fans never need to ramp up and there is no noise of any kind that I can hear. The other 10%, I have high end fans running at 800rpm that keep it cool. I usually don't use the power/HDD LEDs on my case, and the only way id know if my computer was on is by looking at the scroll wheel LED on my mouse.


I'm willing to discuss this with you, but according to your rig specs you have a 250D case .. and according to Corsail website it has the following fan mounting locations .
Front: (x1) 120/140/200mm
Rear: (x2) 80mm
Side: (x2) 120mm

It also says your case will support coolers up to 95mm tall.

Many H100 (and other CLC) users complain about pump noise. There are many who thought their CLCs were 'quiet' until the come back to air coolers and realize just how much noise it was actually making. Not saying this is the case with you, just saying this is often what happens. May I ask how far away form your ears your case is?

You like your H100 and it's doing the job you need done .. for now. That's your choice and I respect your right to choose it.. But I have tested and tried half a dozen different CLCs and could not stand the sounds they all made. I now have a be quiet! Silent Loop 280mm and like it, but it is an AIO, not a CLC .. big difference!! It uses a copper radiator, a much better pump, and has proper hose fittings and filllport so it can be serviced and coolant topped up as needed. It is really a nice cooler, but it's cooling ability is only marginally better if at all better than a top tier air cooler.


----------



## aberrero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm willing to discuss this with you, but according to your rig specs you have a 250D case .. and according to Corsail website it has the following fan mounting locations .
> Front: (x1) 120/140/200mm
> Rear: (x2) 80mm
> Side: (x2) 120mm
> 
> It also says your case will support coolers up to 95mm tall.
> 
> Many H100 (and other CLC) users complain about pump noise. There are many who thought their CLCs were 'quiet' until the come back to air coolers and realize just how much noise it was actually making. Not saying this is the case with you, just saying this is often what happens. May I ask how far away form your ears your case is?
> 
> You like your H100 and it's doing the job you need done .. for now. That's your choice and I respect your right to choose it.. But I have tested and tried half a dozen different CLCs and could not stand the sounds they all made. I now have a be quiet! Silent Loop 280mm and like it, but it is an AIO, not a CLC .. big difference!! It uses a copper radiator, a much better pump, and has proper hose fittings and filllport so it can be serviced and coolant topped up as needed. It is really a nice cooler, but it's cooling ability is only marginally better if at all better than a top tier air cooler.


It's a tight fit; you have to remove the 5.25" drive to get it in there, so it might not be "officially" supported. Edit: it fits on the side 120mmx2 like the specs say.

I don't know what to tell you; I can hear it from maybe 4 or 5 inches away. one foot or more, or anywhere outside the case with the case closed and there is no sound. For me it's all about moving the heat with water to the extremities of the case so I"m not cooling component A with the hot air from component B.

I'm building my Enthoo right now and set it up with a CM Hyper 212. Performance and sound wise it's awful compared to my H100. I am still considering one of the big dual fan air coolers like the BeQuiet, but aesthetics is important too. I don't want a huge block covering up my mobo, and hten a bunch of empty space to the right. Only issue with this is that a front mounted radiator blows hot air inside the case, which is what I'm trying to avoid.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aberrero*
> 
> It's a tight fit; you have to remove the 5.25" drive to get it in there, so it might not be "officially" supported. Edit: it fits on the side 120mmx2 like the specs say.
> 
> I don't know what to tell you; I can hear it from maybe 4 or 5 inches away. one foot or more, or anywhere outside the case with the case closed and there is no sound. For me it's all about moving the heat with water to the extremities of the case so I"m not cooling component A with the hot air from component B.
> 
> I'm building my Enthoo right now and set it up with a CM Hyper 212. Performance and sound wise it's awful compared to my H100. I am still considering one of the big dual fan air coolers like the BeQuiet, but aesthetics is important too. I don't want a huge block covering up my mobo, and hten a bunch of empty space to the right. Only issue with this is that a front mounted radiator blows hot air inside the case, which is what I'm trying to avoid.


As long as it works to your satisfaction.








If case has a decent airflow design and airflow is setup properly heated exhaust from components is not a problem.

What Enthoo case do you have, the P400? 212 is only at best a lower mid-level cooler. Not very good performance and noise level cooler .. better than stock cooler is about it. There are some nice looking top tier coolers now. Cryorig R1, Phanteks PH-TC14PE, be quiet! Silent Rock Pro 3 to name a few. There are some single tower coolers too, like TRUE Spirit 140 Power, NH-U14S, Le Grand Macho RT out there. Aesthetics is relative, I hate the look of hoses resembling snakes inside a terrarium. I would much rather look at a big top tier cooler than snakes.


----------



## kaiqi07

Just to share my new build. First time user of phanteks case and am sure a happy one.

Had done up a new rig to replace my old rig which I had decommissioned one month ago. Chose Phanteks Evolv ATX as I really like the look.

The quality is really damn good, coming from a ex user of Caselabs STH10. This casing really impresses me a lot. Love the touch of the alu panels. Only complain is if only the PSU chamber is a bit higher. easier to hide and route cables.

Coming from a full custom WC build to the new present AIO WC build. A very big difference... not really used to the higher temps that I am experiencing now.

*Previous Build: Project Rampage II*


But on the brighter side, now I can just change the parts especially GPU as often as I like haha.

I did up myself a new set of cables and completed this build. This casing Phanteks Evolv ATX Tempered Glass really damn challenging as one has to cable manage it nicely on both sides....

Had to hide my NZXT Hue and Grid Controller in other locations instead of the PSU chamber.

Been doing up cables for all my clients and today here is the new cables I done up for myself... Initially had used Gold, White, Black color scheme but I find its not really that nice after fixing it up especially under RGB LEDs. So swapped out the gold and replaced it with Silver Grey sleeves.

*
Front*


*Rear*


Also bought some new tones of carbon fibre stickers to pimp my SSDs. Using Titanium Grey for my SSDs and Black for my PSU.

Build components:
Intel i7 7700k
Asus Maximums IX Forumla
G Skill Trident Z RGB DDR4 8gb X 4 3200
Gigabyte G1 Gaming 1080GTX SLI
Seagate Constellation ES3 3TB X2
Samsung Evo 850 250gb M.2 (boot drive)
Samsung Evo 850 500gb Sata X3
Phanteks Evolv ATX TG Grey
Seasonic X850


----------



## geriatricpollywog

It's a bit vanilla for an Evolv ATX but very clean cable management.


----------



## ExcellentAmp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Could also be the owner who keeps their AC set the lowest, you have to account for man made environments, it's not always location. And don't forget that we have an owner or two here with loops so efficient that they report their liquid temp is actually below ambient.


ROLF


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> It's a bit vanilla for an Evolv ATX but very clean cable management.


"vanillia' ?? Seems more like 'Shades of Gray"








While not a custom loop, I think it is a very nicely done build.


----------



## gerrardo

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> Just to share my new build. First time user of phanteks case and am sure a happy one.
> 
> Had done up a new rig to replace my old rig which I had decommissioned one month ago. Chose Phanteks Evolv ATX as I really like the look.
> 
> The quality is really damn good, coming from a ex user of Caselabs STH10. This casing really impresses me a lot. Love the touch of the alu panels. Only complain is if only the PSU chamber is a bit higher. easier to hide and route cables.
> 
> Coming from a full custom WC build to the new present AIO WC build. A very big difference... not really used to the higher temps that I am experiencing now.
> 
> *Previous Build: Project Rampage II*
> 
> 
> But on the brighter side, now I can just change the parts especially GPU as often as I like haha.
> 
> I did up myself a new set of cables and completed this build. This casing Phanteks Evolv ATX Tempered Glass really damn challenging as one has to cable manage it nicely on both sides....
> 
> Had to hide my NZXT Hue and Grid Controller in other locations instead of the PSU chamber.
> 
> Been doing up cables for all my clients and today here is the new cables I done up for myself... Initially had used Gold, White, Black color scheme but I find its not really that nice after fixing it up especially under RGB LEDs. So swapped out the gold and replaced it with Silver Grey sleeves.








Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



*
Front*


*Rear*


Also bought some new tones of carbon fibre stickers to pimp my SSDs. Using Titanium Grey for my SSDs and Black for my PSU.

Build components:
Intel i7 7700k
Asus Maximums IX Forumla
G Skill Trident Z RGB DDR4 8gb X 4 3200
Gigabyte G1 Gaming 1080GTX SLI
Seagate Constellation ES3 3TB X2
Samsung Evo 850 250gb M.2 (boot drive)
Samsung Evo 850 500gb Sata X3
Phanteks Evolv ATX TG Grey
Seasonic X850



great, clean build you've got there! love the work you've done with the cable combs on the back.


----------



## HippoLOL

That cable management is freaking perfect thank you for posting it. Will do the same with my build.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HippoLOL*
> 
> That cable management is freaking perfect thank you for posting it. Will do the same with my build.


MNPCtech make aluminum and carbon fiber cable combs in different sleeve sizes and cable numbers. Very well designed and never break .. might be worth a look.








https://mnpctech.com/buy-stealth-cable-combs-for-pcs/24-pin-carbon-fiber-cable-comb.html
https://mnpctech.com/buy-stealth-cable-combs-for-pcs/ensourced-paracord-extensions/24-pin-ensourced-paracord-billet-comb.html


----------



## redshoulder

Or you can print them if you have access

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1732588


----------



## aberrero

Starting to come together:


----------



## reesonz

Hej Overclockers! 1st time caller long time listener here!







So this is my first watercooling build, an evolution of my first build 2 years ago. Did a great deal of research and thought I had my bases covered but have run into a few issues i wondered what you guys with your experience and wisdom reckon:teaching:! I could just get a different case to overcome space/airflow challanges but nothing looks/feels anywhere as good as this one and will be a nice challange to achieve well! Note: I have sealed up the top compartment whilst having a rad up there in exhaust.

AIM: . Basically looking at what i could to achieve this whilst keeping aesthetics clean, noise minimal and a H20 Δ >10c° with fans @ 750-1000rpm and positive airflow with all intakes filtered. A good challange i reakon.









COMPONENTS:
Evolv ATX TG
4790K ( to be delided soon and OC to a good deal)
GTX 980ti OC
EK D5 vario( 2nd hand, noisy to be upgraded to a alphacool eispumpe VPP755)
=> TDP looking at CPU=105W(normal load not OC'd), GPU 275W and pump 30W = 410W. So actual shown heat 410*0,85= 350W~

Water cooling kit i have on hand.
EK Supremacy cpu block
Ek Fullcover gpu block
12/10mm hardline tube and now for testing 13/10 soft tubing
XSPC RX240, 240mm rad, (6,0cm thick 9 FPI)
Alphacool XT45, 360mm rad (4,5cm thick 12 FPI)
XSPC EX240, 240mm rad (3,0 cm thick, 18 FPI)***not in intial setup
Fans 9* Noiseblocker PL-2 1400rpm fans, (1,24mm mmH2O, 96 m³h)
1* Noctua NF-F12 PWM 120mm fan
2* Noctua NF-A14 PWM 140mm fans
3* included phanteks 140mm fans( apparently quite good static pressure fans)
Fans controlled by speedfan

So my initial setup was as shown in the picture below. (240 rad front intake, 360 top exhaust) A low fpi, low rad resistance, quiet fans with a intake only space at the top front to allow for a constant straight airflow through the case whilst also providing some fresh air to the top rad. 5*120mm rads which i assumed should be pretty decent. this looked great in theory.










So more or less this comes down to rad and fan size and location to maximise rad surface getting as much room temp air and exhausting it out of the case.











#1 challange, restriction proved to be too much for the fans. Second setup to overcome this restriction was to test push/pull with just the XT45 360mm rad in front with the PL-2 fans. I thought that P/P would double my static pressure performance of the setup and overcome restriction at a lower fans speed... this was the case So after some testing i have found my water delta was the same with dust filter on fans @1400rpm and then with dust filter off and fans @550rpm. Shocking realization!! A water delta of only 16,3c° with a single 360 rad and around 350W of heat. which sounds okey but the water temp is 48c° which is too close to the top recommended operating temp of 60c° for both pump and soft tubing. these fans sound nice but really dont like pulling against a dustfilter. 

Do i need new fans? or can i mod something? may try using my noctua 140mm's between the fan filter and front side of front rad.

Q #1 , i took out the fan mount bracket and pushed the 45mm thick rad up to attach the top just under the top pillars? I have read that cutting these pillars out to mount fans on top or the rad mounting bracket is a no-no. But does this method of mounting the rad itself up against the pillar a bad thing? The area of this top sealed compartment decreases by doing so BUT the area that the hot air has to escape(i know people have calculated this and shown how to inprove by raising the cover to sit or even cut holes in the cover itself) does not thus i from my vague recollection of fluid dynamics that its the point of restriction i.e. bottleneck that determines the restriction not the area in between. Thus raising the rad to the top places the same amount of load on the fan as if it had an extra 2,5cm of airspace. Remeber there is no fan mounted at the top only a rad pushed to the very top with a fan in push in the case.

Q #2, does push/pull with different fans cause a problem? Must you have the same fans? Could one mount a static pressure fan on push and a Airflow fan on pull(even if this points to my problem with my fans from the challange above) is this a best practise, i guess not people tend to go SP all round...? if you had different fans in P/P and use fan control to try to match the speeds would this negate the fans degragation/wear?

Q #3, I see that people basically try to fit in as much rads as possible in cases(we dont all have enourmous caselabs cases nor do we want them) even if it means if half of the rads are breathing air that has already been heated up by the other half thus well above ambient. Now when this comes to trying to achieve a water delta of 10 degrees it seems quite counter productive when really trying to squeeze optimal thermal dissapation at low RPM's? i dont want to create a massivley over positive airpressure case either by having all intake. I only bring it up because i wonder where the balance between a fully raded out case with front intake and top exhaust vs a case with front intake(no rads) and top exhaust with rads exists? Now i realize that by having more rads would essentially mean that each rad would deal with less wattage thus would mean that the air out temp would be lower but .  So... when trying to use this case at low RPM's(when air out temps from a rad can be 10 c higher than in) whislt maximising thermal dissapation does having everything raded up or would this actually decrease performance ?

My bad but a backlog of pondering, thought best to lay it all out in the best manner possible in one go. Got tired of sifting through forums trying to find knowledge of worth for each scenario. Anyhoo i look forward to your replies and wish you all a grand day!!

Reese


----------



## gerrardo

The general consensus with reducing the airflow restriction in the Evolv ATX is to increase the distance of the front panel from the fans by adjusting the clip mounts, and to pop the lid of the case and let it rest on the clips versus securing it down. This significantly opens up the case to allow better flow.

I see you are already running a back fan which is also key, is it intake or exhaust? I am not familiar with Noiseblocker fans (I use Gentle Typhoons for radiator duties) but they could potentially be contributing to some of your challenges. Your Noctuas, however, are considered excellent fans so i don't see them adversely affecting your situation. The other general consensus with the Evolv ATX is to run the rear fan and your front radiator fans as "intakes" with your top radiator fans as "exhausts", with I think push being the preferred orientation for both. Some folks like to squeeze the radiator into the top shroud as much as they can but this almost always has a negative impact on performance vs aesthetics.

When running P/P you want the same fans so that there isn't a difference in the airflow. Different fans can reduce performance as one fan my be effectively working against the other, versus in unison. You mentioned that your pump was giving you problems, have you been able to verify the flow output to make sure it is right around the 1 gallon per minute sweet spot? General consensus again on this point is that temperature gains above a 1GPM flow rate are negligible in real world scenarios. 1 GPM allows a decent compromise between flow rate in the blocks and dwell time in the radiators.

When trying to achieve low fan speed performance, generally speaking thicker radiators are not ideal compared to slimmer radiators as they tend to have a lower FPI and require more airflow to work efficiently compared to slimmer designs which are more optimized towards a reduction in noise while maintaining performance. I am currently waiting on my pump to be delivered but I will gladly post the temperatures I am getting on an overclocked 5820k & 1070ftw, in my Evolv ATX with two of the GTS radiators running AP-15 fans at about 1100-1300 rpm and we can compare with the exception of delta as I don't have a temperature probe for the coolant but can probably stick a thermometer in the reservoir for fun


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gerrardo*
> 
> The general consensus with reducing the airflow restriction in the Evolv ATX is to increase the distance of the front panel from the fans by adjusting the clip mounts, and to pop the lid of the case and let it rest on the clips versus securing it down. This significantly opens up the case to allow better flow.
> 
> I see you are already running a back fan which is also key, is it intake or exhaust? I am not familiar with Noiseblocker fans (I use Gentle Typhoons for radiator duties) but they could potentially be contributing to some of your challenges. Your Noctuas, however, are considered excellent fans so i don't see them adversely affecting your situation. The other general consensus with the Evolv ATX is to run the rear fan and your front radiator fans as "intakes" with your top radiator fans as "exhausts", with I think push being the preferred orientation for both. Some folks like to squeeze the radiator into the top shroud as much as they can but this almost always has a negative impact on performance vs aesthetics.
> 
> When running P/P you want the same fans so that there isn't a difference in the airflow. Different fans can reduce performance as one fan my be effectively working against the other, versus in unison. You mentioned that your pump was giving you problems, have you been able to verify the flow output to make sure it is right around the 1 gallon per minute sweet spot? General consensus again on this point is that temperature gains above a 1GPM flow rate are negligible in real world scenarios. 1 GPM allows a decent compromise between flow rate in the blocks and dwell time in the radiators.
> 
> When trying to achieve low fan speed performance, generally speaking thicker radiators are not ideal compared to slimmer radiators as they tend to have a higher FPI and require more airflow to work efficiently compared to slimmer designs which are more optimized towards a reduction in noise while maintaining performance. I am currently waiting on my pump to be delivered but I will gladly post the temperatures I am getting on an overclocked 5820k & 1070ftw, in my Evolv ATX with two of the GTS radiators running AP-15 fans at about 1100-1300 rpm and we can compare with the exception of delta as I don't have a temperature probe for the coolant but can probably stick a thermometer in the reservoir for fun


Are you sure thicker radiators have higher FPI in general? I always thought it was the other way around where thinner radiators had higher FPI to recompense the difference while thicker radiators could afford to have a lower FPI.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Are you sure thicker radiators have higher FPI in general? I always thought it was the other way around where thinner radiators had higher FPI to recompense the difference while thicker radiators could afford to have a lower FPI.


that's my consensus as well. Higher fpi on slim rad and lower on thick rads.


----------



## gerrardo

Edited, I got flipped around. Great catch team!


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> that's my consensus as well. Higher fpi on slim rad and lower on thick rads.


Rads do tend to vary, best to look at specific rad specs as there is not a single rule that says it's one way or another. Also, you can't have a consensus with yourself lol.


----------



## Scottland

Just got my case, currently waiting for the rads. I'm putting a 360 up top, I'm thinking of losing the top radiator/fan bracket and mounting onto top of the frame. Does anyone have any experience which is better - to have the fans at the bottom or top / intake or exhaust?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scottland*
> 
> Just got my case, currently waiting for the rads. I'm putting a 360 up top, I'm thinking of losing the top radiator/fan bracket and mounting onto top of the frame. Does anyone have any experience which is better - to have the fans at the bottom or top / intake or exhaust?


I would advise against the top mod unless you have no other choice. Whatever you choose the fans should be the furthest distance away from the top panel as possible. So if you are doing a top mod, do not put the fans on top of the rad. That is like putting your hand a centimeter away from your mouth and trying to breath. You can do it... just don't expect great performance.

In general, the best setup is: Front/Intake, Top/Exhaust, Rear/Intake. Some people have made Front/Intake, Top/Intake, Rear/Exhaust work... but IMO the results are mixed at best.

For rads, the biggest rad should go in the front if possible (less air in the top chamber means it can work better). A 280mm X 30mm rad up top and 360 X 54-60mm up front is your ideal performance scenario (For example HWL GTS 280 top, HWL GTX 360 front).


----------



## HippoLOL

I want to get my top panel laser cut.

Pasko: Would you happen to have the below in a cad or something similar format?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HippoLOL*
> 
> I want to get my top panel laser cut.
> 
> Pasko: Would you happen to have the below in a cad or something similar format?


I do not ATM. I may by the end of the month. If that is too long, I can recommend a guy on fivrr.


----------



## HippoLOL

I'm in Australia so i'd have to get it cut here. I'm happy to wait till end of month. Thanks a ton!


----------



## Scottland

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I would advise against the top mod unless you have no other choice. Whatever you choose the fans should be the furthest distance away from the top panel as possible. So if you are doing a top mod, do not put the fans on top of the rad. That is like putting your hand a centimeter away from your mouth and trying to breath. You can do it... just don't expect great performance.
> 
> In general, the best setup is: Front/Intake, Top/Exhaust, Rear/Intake. Some people have made Front/Intake, Top/Intake, Rear/Exhaust work... but IMO the results are mixed at best.
> 
> For rads, the biggest rad should go in the front if possible (less air in the top chamber means it can work better). A 280mm X 30mm rad up top and 360 X 54-60mm up front is your ideal performance scenario (For example HWL GTS 280 top, HWL GTX 360 front).


Thanks for the response, I've got a HWL SR2 280 for the front and GTS 360 for the top, so a little bit similar to the config you suggested.

My idea was to mount the top rad to the frame at the top, and have the fans pushing air through - i completely see the issue of having no room for the hot air to escape though. Although I was also planning on sealing the holes up so in theory the heat would have to escape out of the top...


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scottland*
> 
> Thanks for the response, I've got a HWL SR2 280 for the front and GTS 360 for the top, so a little bit similar to the config you suggested.
> 
> My idea was to mount the top rad to the frame at the top, and have the fans pushing air through - i completely see the issue of having no room for the hot air to escape though. Although I was also planning on sealing the holes up so in theory the heat would have to escape out of the top...


You will have to cut your case for the SR2 280.


----------



## Scottland

Oh yeah I meant to check that. Is that for all 280's or just the SR2. I could swap it for another GTS which has similar performance at sub 800rpm.

Edit: Seems like all the HWL radiators are about 8mm too wide. I don't mind cutting the case, but will have a look around at alternative config options.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scottland*
> 
> Oh yeah I meant to check that. Is that for all 280's or just the SR2. I could swap it for another GTS which has similar performance at sub 800rpm.
> 
> Edit: Seems like all the HWL radiators are about 8mm too wide. I don't mind cutting the case, but will have a look around at alternative config options.


Consider the EKWB CE280 to be the widest radiator that fits. Just be careful not to scrape it when installing.


----------



## reesonz

Thanks for your input Gerrardo!! So just like going to a psychologist often just letting everything out helps the thinking process!! So i have the rear fan as exhaust like traditional systems. WIll experiment with that one. but wanted to have directed airflow from front to back and not turbulence. Also had not adjusted the front panel mod will do shortly. My D5 pump was set at 3/5 so should def be reaching above 1GPM. I tried lowering pump speed right down and the temps def suffered as going below the 1GPM mark. I may be investing in a aquaero 6LT fan controller(4 PWM headers with 30W each and 4 temp sensors plus ability to control fans based on water delta temps, what i really want to do.) where by i could also add in a flow monitor. All quite expensive tho. My MB only has1 true PWM fan header and on temp probe input so I could alternatively get a new motherboard but they are end of the line Z97 and a top end second hand board is hard to find not to mention the Intel 4790K still does very well thus people still tend to hold onto them.

>> So have come up with a master plan. First buy a dremel!! Gunna mod the front intake to add 10-20 mm, easy enough to do. Have taken apart the top lid and this also could be modded to add 15mm vertical space and make metal siding to match the aesthetics easy enough and support for the power button. Then also being so high to add in some thin noise dampening. Then modd the front to fit 3*140 fans. I already have 2 noctuas so one more there. Then with alot more breathing room in the top put in a 420 GTS xflow rad(would need to be modded slightly). Will try using the phanteks fans here to keep costs down but may buy 3 pcs EK-Vardar F3-140ER (500-2000RPM) a review from thermalbench he reccommeded them as #1 140mm fans. Then also a 140 GTS xflow as exhaust under the psu shroud at the front(enter dremel stage left). this would give me 2*280mm performance all feed with ambient air. Only issue being 3*140 front intakes and 4*140 exhaust rad and rear exhaust also . Thus the front intakes would need to operate >33% higher to maintain postive airflow. What do you reakon about this. I am not worried about modding my case to do all this if it leads to what i think it will!!


----------



## atomicus

The XSPC EX280 also fits up front without any cutting or modding required. Is the EKWB CE280 actually confirmed to fit? It's 2mm wider than the EX280 which is 143mm which I have fitted in my Evolv, and I don't see that there's an extra 2mm there. It's possible, but I wouldn't bet on it based on what I can see.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> The XSPC EX280 also fits up front without any cutting or modding required. Is the EKWB CE280 actually confirmed to fit? It's 2mm wider than the EX280 which is 143mm which I have fitted in my Evolv, and I don't see that there's an extra 2mm there. It's possible, but I wouldn't bet on it based on what I can see.


CE280 fits in the front. Or at least the one I have.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reesonz*
> 
> Thanks for your input Gerrardo!! So just like going to a psychologist often just letting everything out helps the thinking process!! So i have the rear fan as exhaust like traditional systems. WIll experiment with that one. but wanted to have directed airflow from front to back and not turbulence. Also had not adjusted the front panel mod will do shortly. My D5 pump was set at 3/5 so should def be reaching above 1GPM. I tried lowering pump speed right down and the temps def suffered as going below the 1GPM mark. I may be investing in a aquaero 6LT fan controller(4 PWM headers with 30W each and 4 temp sensors plus ability to control fans based on water delta temps, what i really want to do.) where by i could also add in a flow monitor. All quite expensive tho. My MB only has1 true PWM fan header and on temp probe input so I could alternatively get a new motherboard but they are end of the line Z97 and a top end second hand board is hard to find not to mention the Intel 4790K still does very well thus people still tend to hold onto them.
> 
> >> So have come up with a master plan. First buy a dremel!! Gunna mod the front intake to add 10-20 mm, easy enough to do. Have taken apart the top lid and this also could be modded to add 15mm vertical space and make metal siding to match the aesthetics easy enough and support for the power button. Then also being so high to add in some thin noise dampening. Then modd the front to fit 3*140 fans. I already have 2 noctuas so one more there. Then with alot more breathing room in the top put in a 420 GTS xflow rad(would need to be modded slightly). Will try using the phanteks fans here to keep costs down but may buy 3 pcs EK-Vardar F3-140ER (500-2000RPM) a review from thermalbench he reccommeded them as #1 140mm fans. Then also a 140 GTS xflow as exhaust under the psu shroud at the front(enter dremel stage left). this would give me 2*280mm performance all feed with ambient air. Only issue being 3*140 front intakes and 4*140 exhaust rad and rear exhaust also . Thus the front intakes would need to operate >33% higher to maintain postive airflow. What do you reakon about this. I am not worried about modding my case to do all this if it leads to what i think it will!!


Here is a better example of how much you need to cut. I used automotive trim from an auto parts store to cover the part that I cut.


----------



## dublethink

Hi everyone, I'm looking for some critique of my build plan for my evolve TG, particularly if i should go for 2x 360 or 1x360 1x280 rads. This is my first time building a custom loop so advice is gratefully received:

Radiators: 1 x 360 black ice gts + 1 x black ice 280 gtx / 2 x 360 black ice gts (someone on here earlier confirmed they do fit)

Fans: 3 X eloop b12-2 + 3x eloop b14-2/ 6 eloop b12-2 + 1x b14-2

Res: Not sure what size to go for, any recommendations?

Water Blocks- EK Titan XP (for a 1080ti founders), EK-Supremacy EVO

Pump: D5 PWM

Loop order: Pump --> GPU --> 360 rad --> CPU --> 280/360 rad --> res

Components
Ryzen 1700 (owned)
AS ROCK TAICHI mobo
16GB DDR 4
1080 TI founders EVGA (owned)
1x 256 M.2. ssd, 1x 512gb SATA ssd
EVGA Supernova G2 (owned)


----------



## nycgtr

People buying rads and looking at a 280 for the front or top. Just get another 360. You can fit 2 360s. If you already own the rads I can see the struggle. If your buying new rads there's no point to trying see which 280 fits when you can get a 360 in the front and top.



2 360s and even a rear fan to boot.

You can cram a lot into this case with proper planning and with modding even more so. Check singuarlity's build of 2 ek pe 360s and dual loops with 250ml reservoirs. it's a beauty.
https://www.singularitycomputers.com/radium-002-final-photos/


----------



## dublethink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> People buying rads and looking at a 280 for the front or top. Just get another 360. You can fit 2 360s. If you already own the rads I can see the struggle. If your buying new rads there's no point to trying see which 280 fits when you can get a 360 in the front and top.
> 
> 
> 
> 2 360s and even a rear fan to boot.
> 
> You can cram a lot into this case with proper planning and with modding even more so. Check singuarlity's build of 2 ek pe 360s and dual loops with 250ml reservoirs. it's a beauty.
> https://www.singularitycomputers.com/radium-002-final-photos/
> 
> 2 360s and even a rear fan to boot.


Huge thanks to you nycgtr, I think two sets of 320 GTS looks a heck of a lot cleaner too. as a bonus I already own 4 eloops (120mms) so that means one less fan for me to buy.

In terms of res size 250 appears to also be aesthetically best from those pics. Im just running a mock up though sketch up and will add some pictures on here when done. Any recommendations on which 250 res to go for? Im also trying to decide if I should combine them with res or mount in the cutout below


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dublethink*
> 
> Huge thanks to you nycgtr, I think two sets of 320 GTS looks a heck of a lot cleaner too. as a bonus I already own 4 eloops (120mms) so that means one less fan for me to buy.
> 
> In terms of res size 250 appears to also be aesthetically best from those pics. Im just running a mock up though sketch up and will add some pictures on here when done. Any recommendations on which 250 res to go for? Im also trying to decide if I should combine them with res or mount in the cutout below


I think the video he mentioned 250. However, now that I look at it again seems shorter than 250 and more like 200. The first pic with the blue is my pc and I used a 150ml. I think 150ml is a nice fit. I have a 250 and it looked kinda too big to be in the case. I like bitspower reservoirs since they have the multi port top rather than a 20ish dollar add on from ek. Costs less than EK for similar quality at least for reservoirs. However, I think a pump/res combo is the easiest path in this case. Since you already have a d5 you can do what I and some others have done and just connect the two with a fitting.


----------



## dublethink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I think the video he mentioned 250. However, now that I look at it again seems shorter than 250 and more like 200. The first pic with the blue is my pc and I used a 150ml. I think 150ml is a nice fit. I have a 250 and it looked kinda too big to be in the case. I like bitspower reservoirs since they have the multi port top rather than a 20ish dollar add on from ek. Costs less than EK for similar quality at least for reservoirs. However, I think a pump/res combo is the easiest path in this case. Since you already have a d5 you can do what I and some others have done and just connect the two with a fitting.


I dont have any of the water cooling parts so far except for the eloops so am still quite flexible. The actual pc hardware is here or on pre-order though. Ty for the res advice- looking at your loop there (which is going to be very much similar to the loop design I plan) do you have the front 320 with its imput/output ports at the bottom of the case?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dublethink*
> 
> I dont have any of the water cooling parts so far except for the eloops so am still quite flexible. The actual pc hardware is here or on pre-order though. Ty for the res advice- looking at your loop there (which is going to be very much similar to the loop design I plan) do you have the front 320 with its imput/output ports at the bottom of the case?


Yea the ports only fit on the bottom. Unless you can get some extensions that are fairly slim and you mount the fans above the radiator on top, the top mount isn't happening. Definfetly get a pump/res comb then it will save you a major headache. I'd suggest the ek d5 revo with a ek uni mount, so it can go straight onto a fan mount.

Having the port at the bottom also allows for a good drain position as these rads dont have a drain port.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dublethink*
> 
> Hi everyone, I'm looking for some critique of my build plan for my evolve TG, particularly if i should go for 2x 360 or 1x360 1x280 rads. This is my first time building a custom loop so advice is gratefully received:
> 
> Radiators: 1 x 360 black ice gts + 1 x black ice 280 gtx / 2 x 360 black ice gts (someone on here earlier confirmed they do fit)
> 
> Fans: 3 X eloop b12-2 + 3x eloop b14-2/ 6 eloop b12-2 + 1x b14-2
> 
> Res: Not sure what size to go for, any recommendations?
> 
> Water Blocks- EK Titan XP (for a 1080ti founders), EK-Supremacy EVO
> 
> Pump: D5 PWM
> 
> Loop order: Pump --> GPU --> 360 rad --> CPU --> 280/360 rad --> res
> 
> Components
> Ryzen 1700 (owned)
> AS ROCK TAICHI mobo
> 16GB DDR 4
> 1080 TI founders EVGA (owned)
> 1x 256 M.2. ssd, 1x 512gb SATA ssd
> EVGA Supernova G2 (owned)


I will say three things. First, I happen to prefer a 360 + 280 GTS. I find that the case is a little cramped to begin with, and that little bit of extra space is a help. You lose essentially nothing in cooling capacity, 140mm fans tend to have a smoother sound profile (and you can simply use the included F140MP which are excellent), and you lose nothing in terms of looks.

Second, the Monsoon MMRS using two 50mm tubes with a coupler and D5 mount is an absolute perfect fit, and even bolts into existing holes.

Last....are you sure you really want an AsRock?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I will say three things. First, I happen to prefer a 360 + 280 GTS. I find that the case is a little cramped to begin with, and that little bit of extra space is a help. You lose essentially nothing in cooling capacity, 140mm fans tend to have a smoother sound profile (and you can simply use the included F140MP which are excellent), and you lose nothing in terms of looks.
> 
> Second, the Monsoon MMRS using two 50mm tubes with a coupler and D5 mount is an absolute perfect fit, and even bolts into existing holes.
> 
> Last....are you sure you really want an AsRock?


This.

Or dual GTS 280 so you can fit a rear exhaust fan.


----------



## dublethink

For the res think I should go for the 150ml as suggested. 250 is just a bit too big for comfort and can't make a clean line from the CPU inlet to the Res. Thinking of going for the phobya balancer 150

Re. ASROCK the quality from what im reading is top end and it does not have the same bit too overdone design of the fatality or several of the other high end gaming boards on X370.



Plan so far: Ignore that the branding of the parts dont match on the fans, res and components, im using this more as a size guide (though the rads are the same black ice gts I pan to use)


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I will say three things. First, I happen to prefer a 360 + 280 GTS. I find that the case is a little cramped to begin with, and that little bit of extra space is a help. You lose essentially nothing in cooling capacity, 140mm fans tend to have a smoother sound profile (and you can simply use the included F140MP which are excellent), and you lose nothing in terms of looks.
> 
> Second, the Monsoon MMRS using two 50mm tubes with a coupler and D5 mount is an absolute perfect fit, and even bolts into existing holes.
> 
> Last....are you sure you really want an AsRock?


There's nothing wrong with ASRock boards. They have the same problems as anyone else and reliability on par with MSI and Gigabyte while offering more features and overclocking potential for less money.

Also, a single 360 and a 240 will be more than enough cooling for those components. You don't need to force a second 360 in there. A 280 is even unnecessary, but as said the fans usually are quieter for the same performance and the case comes with good 140mm fans.


----------



## paskowitz

I would personally avoid ASRock. Beyond my own personal negative experience, their mobo software is objectively bad. Their customer support makes Asus look like EVGA. Asus, Gigabyte and MSI, in that order, are all better options.


----------



## dublethink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*


Hey nycgtr- looking at your build there did you manage to fit in a full thickness 140mm fan at the back or was it a slim line? cant quite get a 25mm thick one to fit on my CAD model.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dublethink*
> 
> Hey nycgtr- looking at your build there did you manage to fit in a full thickness 140mm fan at the back or was it a slim line? cant quite get a 25mm thick one to fit on my CAD model.


It's a slim 140 with 120 mount holes. Actually moves lots of air while being pretty much inaudible. It however has maybe .05mm clearance from the fitting









https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B1WQ4VA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> There's nothing wrong with ASRock boards. They have the same problems as anyone else and reliability on par with MSI and Gigabyte while offering more features and overclocking potential for less money.
> 
> Also, a single 360 and a 240 will be more than enough cooling for those components. You don't need to force a second 360 in there. A 280 is even unnecessary, but as said the fans usually are quieter for the same performance and the case comes with good 140mm fans.


Can't say I agree with that about ASRock. The quality of every component on the board is a clear step below Asus, MSI or Gigabyte.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I would personally avoid ASRock. Beyond my own personal negative experience, their mobo software is objectively bad. Their customer support makes Asus look like EVGA. Asus, Gigabyte and MSI, in that order, are all better options.


I will say that I absolutely agree with this. I have never had the pleasure of dealing with ASRock support, though.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Can't say I agree with that about ASRock. The quality of every component on the board is a clear step below Asus, MSI or Gigabyte.
> I will say that I absolutely agree with this. I have never had the pleasure of dealing with ASRock support, though.


The quality of the multitude of components or the lack thereof? Such as VRM and RAM phases, audio chips, etc.?


----------



## dublethink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> It's a slim 140 with 120 mount holes. Actually moves lots of air while being pretty much inaudible. It however has maybe .05mm clearance from the fitting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B1WQ4VA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Cheers- decided to go for the Aerolus Alpha by Raijntek- has about the same performance as that one and noise levels from the info i manged to find.

Re the ASROCK it has got great reviews from Toms and Tweaktown. Actually outperforms the Asus Maximus X370 in a lot of testing.

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/raijintek-aelous-alpha-140mm-black-white-fg-001-rt.html


----------



## nycgtr

I;ve owned 3 asrock boards z97, x99, z170 extreme . Now with every chipset I usually get about 2-3 mobos. I don't have extensive experience with asrock, however their boards (I only have experience with their high end) so far the boards with the exception of the x99 have been rock solid. HOWEVER, they are clearly a step down from other high end boards from asus and gigabyte. Everything on the boards feel cheaper and I am sure some caps, vrms are of lower quality as well. A high end asrock feels like a mid tier gigabyte. Granted their pricing is similar and you often get more with asrock. However, I would rather pay the extra for a better support system. Also asrock sucks for rebates all 3 boards had a rebate never got 1 back lol.


----------



## Scottland

Nemesis GTS 280 (Top) and 360 (Front) turned up this morning, was originally looking for an SR2 for the front - but performance at 800rpm should be broadly similar. Should be able to do what I want without much cutting or modding to the case.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scottland*
> 
> Nemesis GTS 280 (Top) and 360 (Front) turned up this morning, was originally looking for an SR2 for the front - but performance at 800rpm should be broadly similar. Should be able to do what I want without much cutting or modding to the case.


Try switching the positions of those. You will find that the 360 in the top and 280 front gives a much cleaner look.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Try switching the positions of those. You will find that the 360 in the top and 280 front gives a much cleaner look.


I don't think a 280 GTS fits in the front without some modding. I know my X-Flow doesn't.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I don't think a 280 GTS fits in the front without some modding. I know my X-Flow doesn't.


The 280 GTR does not. The GTS is the same width as the GTR.


----------



## dublethink

Final Loop Plan- any opinions

1x GTX Titan XP EK waterblock
1x GTX Titan XP EK backplate
1x EK Xtop Revo D5 PWM pump
1x Ek Supremacy full nickel CPU cooler
1x Phoyba Balancer 150ml Chrome res
2x Black Ice GTS 360 rads
Rigid Tubing
Orange Coolant
6x noise blocker Eloop B12-2 fans
1 x Raijintek Aelous Alpha 140mm Fan (slimline for back port)

Sketchup plans (please ignore wrong components- couldn't find everything I wanted in the library


----------



## nycgtr

Take my suggestion and use the ek d5 pump/res. The ek d5 revo is a pain to fit where you want to fit it. I personally tried that, I could barely get it inside. Your just making your life hard getting the same result of the res being in the same position. I didn't take pictures but I tried my best to it down there and it was not happening.


----------



## paskowitz

I agree. Pump/res. You'll never make those bends (or it will be a PIA).

Where did you find the Evolv model BTW?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

How did you nake that 3 D model?


----------



## gerrardo

If you want something a little more unique compared to the EK Xres check out FrozenQ's LFX line. They also integrate either a D5 or DDC into the bottom of the reservoir which will be great for saving space and adding some personal flavor to your build.


----------



## paskowitz

I would also check out Watercool Heatkiller for blocks and reservoirs.


----------



## gerrardo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I would also check out Watercool Heatkiller for blocks and reservoirs.


I've got the HK4 CPU and gpu blocks and they are amazing! The finish is the best I've seen and I've owned everything over the years from Danger Den to EK and beyond.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gerrardo*
> 
> I've got the HK4 CPU and gpu blocks and they are amazing! The finish is the best I've seen and I've owned everything over the years from Danger Den to EK and beyond.


Yeah, their milling is God Tier and performance is usually 1st or 2nd place with Aqua Computer. You pay a price premium and they can be out of stock sometimes but IMO it's worth it.


----------



## gerrardo

my first set of blocks from them were for GTX670s and at first touch you could tell they were quality kit. I had Koolance blocks on gtx480s before that and they looked and felt cheap side by side. Been with Heatkiller ever since. Plus there are tons of EK builds, nice to see something different.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Take my suggestion and use the ek d5 pump/res. The ek d5 revo is a pain to fit where you want to fit it. I personally tried that, I could barely get it inside. Your just making your life hard getting the same result of the res being in the same position. I didn't take pictures but I tried my best to it down there and it was not happening.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I agree. Pump/res. You'll never make those bends (or it will be a PIA).
> 
> Where did you find the Evolv model BTW?


Agreed, pump/res all the way. Not so much agreed on an EK....I returned the Revo when I got it. After having an XSPC Photon and Monsoon MMRS, it didn't come close in terms of quality and looks. The MMRS dual 50mm tubes with a coupler and D5 fits in the Evolv ATX perfectly with a 30mm thick rad up top, and even uses existing holes to mount.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I don't think a 280 GTS fits in the front without some modding. I know my X-Flow doesn't.


My bad...totally forgot that the GTS is too wide. The only HWL that would fit would be the L Series.


----------



## dublethink

Ty for advice will switch to a heatkiller as was also looking at those for CPU. Res wise i will look at integrated D5 but don't want to do another ek Res build.

Had a lot of pms and requests for the cad model I'm using- got it from here https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/enthoo-evolv-atx-sketchup-model.18730079/

Ooh me like the suggested Res combos. Will see what i can get in the UK


----------



## gerrardo

Heatkiller, Monsoon, and FrozenQ all make some really cool reservoirs that can integrate a D5 pretty seamlessly if you want to avoid the EK offerings. The HK one is made of glass which adds a different aeshetic and would be very easy to obtain in the UK. Monsoon and FrozenQ should be available, otherwise you can order directly through FrozenQ and I think he can ship to you. My only advice if you do order direct through FrozenQ is it is a small business and it can take them a bit of time to get your order out if there is any custom work like extra inlet/outlet ports or custom plastic fabrication. He makes great kit, but you just might have to wait a little longer.

For me, it was a tossup between the Heatkiller and FrozenQ options as they are very unique


----------



## paskowitz

Look at Phanteks being all nice...

http://www.phanteks.com/assets/3D/PH-ES515ETG.zip


----------



## dublethink

Heatkiller 150 or 200 will be the Res I go for i think with integrated D5.

Quick question, i love the look of the heat killer titan XP block but don't like the backplate for it as it is not going to match build colour well. Could i use the ek backplate with the titan x heatkiller block?


----------



## gerrardo

I know Heatkiller gpu blocks currently allow you to use the stock backplate so you could potentially do the EK backplate, the screw holes might need some work. No guarantees but with a little elbow grease I'm sure it will be fine.


----------



## MoDeNa

Hi guys,

Due to some messages I received asking me for the roof mod I did to my Evolv TG, I want to share with you the scheme I used to do it in case that may help somebody else..



Kind regards


----------



## smiley424

Here's a link to pics of my build. I just migrated to an Anthracite Gray Evolv ATX TG. Completely air cooled, stock fans and Noctua NH-D15. I was tempted to get the NZXT Kraken X62 AIO, but it would have been purely for looks and would provide minimal cooling over the Noctua. Still waiting on a LED strip to arrive and complete the look. I also have some more work with my cable management on the backside.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/17300#post_25958267


----------



## Scottland

Still a work in progress, hope to be finished before the weekend (apologies for the potato picture):


----------



## paskowitz

Looks really nice.


----------



## Boost240

I want to mount my GPU like that. Which riser card are you using?


----------



## mikailmohammed

Guys will this https://www.amazon.com/Nemesis-360GTX-Dual-Core-Profile-Radiator/dp/B01636KKU4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1490668983&sr=8-1&keywords=black+ice+nemesis+360gtx
fit that the case as well??


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikailmohammed*
> 
> Guys will this https://www.amazon.com/Nemesis-360GTX-Dual-Core-Profile-Radiator/dp/B01636KKU4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1490668983&sr=8-1&keywords=black+ice+nemesis+360gtx
> fit that the case as well??


In the front, yes. In the top of you want 1/3 of your Mobo covered, yes.


----------



## nycgtr

Hey fellow owners. Singularity computers did a mod for the evolv it top and front. Let them know you be interested in something for the evolv atx, they might be able to make it happen!



https://www.singularitycomputers.com/phanteks-evolv-itx-mods/


----------



## paskowitz

I'm not sure many people are going to want to pay shipping from Australia.


----------



## aberrero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scottland*
> 
> Still a work in progress, hope to be finished before the weekend (apologies for the potato picture):


What is that radiator on top? Is it mounted to the bracket? It's the first one I've seen with decent clearance on the motherboard with this case, usually they cover up too much.


----------



## Scottland

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aberrero*
> 
> What is that radiator on top? Is it mounted to the bracket? It's the first one I've seen with decent clearance on the motherboard with this case, usually they cover up too much.


Its mounted using the top frame, but without cutting or drilling anything. Not as convenient as the pull out tray (which I could have done the same thing with, but needed cutting), but given the hardline tubing it's not a requirement to be able to quickly pull things out!









Top and front rads are Black Ice Nemesis GTS, once it's finished I'll put up some pictures to show the small mods I've done.


----------



## alanthecelt

read every post in this entire thread
decided to start my build in here
so.. im going from a fortress ft05 into the phanteks, and going full water cooled in the process.

Hardware:
Gigabyte Z97 Game Plus
16GB DDR3
I5 4690K
1080 TI FE
256GB samsung 950 nvme
1TB samsung 950 SATA

Cooling
EK Supremacy MX
EK Titan X full cover and backplate
EK D5 PWM pump and small res
Mayhems Havoc 360x60 front rad
Alphacool 280x30 crossflow top rad
Phanteks 140 SP fans, 2 inlet on front, 2 exhaust through top rad, 1 rear inlet.

Top rad is being mounted high, using a custom fixing to mount it flush in the top of the case, i have a custom grill to go on the top of the case to help it vent.
Plumbing is 13mm Flexi, and whatever plain fittings i can find
Pics to follow


----------



## Sh3perd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanthecelt*
> 
> read every post in this entire thread
> decided to start my build in here
> so.. im going from a fortress ft05 into the phanteks, and going full water cooled in the process.
> 
> Hardware:
> Gigabyte Z97 Game Plus
> 16GB DDR3
> I5 4690K
> 1080 TI FE
> 256GB samsung 950 nvme
> 1TB samsung 950 SATA
> 
> Cooling
> EK Supremacy MX
> EK Titan X full cover and backplate
> EK D5 PWM pump and small res
> Mayhems Havoc 360x60 front rad
> Alphacool 280x30 crossflow top rad
> Phanteks 140 SP fans, 2 inlet on front, 2 exhaust through top rad, 1 rear inlet.
> 
> Top rad is being mounted high, using a custom fixing to mount it flush in the top of the case, i have a custom grill to go on the top of the case to help it vent.
> Plumbing is 13mm Flexi, and whatever plain fittings i can find
> Pics to follow


Awesome man! excited to see pictures!


----------



## nycgtr

Just spoke to modmymods since I am also in NY about cutting the top panel. Said it shouldn't be an issue, will keep thread updated if mine works out.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Just spoke to modmymods since I am also in NY about cutting the top panel. Said it shouldn't be an issue, will keep thread updated if mine works out.


Nice. I'm in NY as well My guy is probably too busy for this so I'm definitely interested.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Nice. I'm in NY as well My guy is probably too busy for this so I'm definitely interested.


I emailed him the diagram of what needs to be done. Over the phone I was told about 20-30 bucks to cut and file it up. Performance pc just got back to me about it as well. PPC wants 30 for a rough cut and to make it perfect would be 50 range if it takes more than an hour. I essentially requested they cut panel to the measurements posted by Modena. I checked the decimex 280mm magnetic dust filter and it should cover it just perfectly.


----------



## paskowitz

I am having a custom reservoir made for my Evolv. ATM the plan is to put it on the back side of the case where the HDD cable pass through tabs are. It would be about ~9"x4"x1". Tubing would route from the front most cable grommet, to the bottom chamber, and then back up through any of the bottom holes. I'll post pics as I get further along but this is a rough mock up...


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I am having a custom reservoir made for my Evolv. ATM the plan is to put it on the back side of the case where the HDD cable pass through tabs are. It would be about ~9"x4"x1". Tubing would route from the front most cable grommet, to the bottom chamber, and then back up through any of the bottom holes. I'll post pics as I get further along but this is a rough mock up...


Not a bad idea. This is what I did with the space


----------



## dublethink

Sorry for the potato quality pictures but parts for my own build, project "Nemesis" are arriving nicely. Tested the components in the case and all up and running. Radiators came today also so plan to flush them out and get them mounted over the next few days 

Lovely package from nils at MDPC arrived also!


----------



## alanthecelt

So
i cut the top supports out
had a bit of perspex cut up, i want to get the top rad and fans up as high as possible.
while i was at it i had a vent grill cut, i'm still chopping the lid of the case up as we speak
slightly undecided what im doing with the pump/res.. but its all coming together


----------



## serag4fx

Hello every one i just wanted to share my work almost done, hope you like it

it's dual 360 GTS


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serag4fx*
> 
> Hello every one i just wanted to share my work almost done, hope you like it
> 
> it's dual 360 GTS


DId you mod the top in anyway? I ask because I have the same rads and have the ports at the top wasn't happening.


----------



## serag4fx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> DId you mod the top in anyway? I ask because I have the same rads and have the ports at the top wasn't happening.


i straighten the bends in the top to the extra 5mm clearance


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serag4fx*
> 
> i straighten the bends in the top to the extra 5mm clearance


Ah okay thanks. that's what I was guessing was done. Where is your drain?

I had wanted to do that but ended up figuring that if I needed to mod the top I would just put the ports on the bottom, same time making my drain point easier,.


----------



## serag4fx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Ah okay thanks. that's what I was guessing was done. Where is your drain?
> 
> I had wanted to do that but ended up figuring that if I needed to mod the top I would just put the ports on the bottom, same time making my drain point easier,.



the drain is on the back side splitted with bump outlet


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serag4fx*
> 
> 
> the drain is on the back side splitted with bump outlet


Kudos to getting the d5 down there lol. I was originally gonna put mine down there as well but felt it was a pain to do so, its a tight fit.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serag4fx*
> 
> 
> the drain is on the back side splitted with bump outlet


I'm doing the same and this helps more than you know. TY.


----------



## nycgtr

If i ever decided to run parallel to cpu with gpus I will mount my rads this way as well. In the mean time I'm done with messing with the loop. Spent 2 months almost messing with it.


----------



## serag4fx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I'm doing the same and this helps more than you know. TY.


you are welcomed man hope you liked the build i ordered grill for top mod but i received a wide opening holes one i can't decide whether to use it or get smaller openings one your opinion matters


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serag4fx*
> 
> you are welcomed man hope you liked the build i ordered grill for top mod but i received a wide opening holes one i can't decide whether to use it or get smaller openings one your opinion matters


Where did you get that grill material. I ended up using a demciflex filter cuz I couldnt find anything better.


----------



## serag4fx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Where did you get that grill material. I ended up using a demciflex filter cuz I couldnt find anything better.


it's from performance-pcs.com
http://www.performance-pcs.com/diy-casings/custom-speaker-grill-1-16-dia-staggered-black.html

the material is awesome and its black coated


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serag4fx*
> 
> it's from performance-pcs.com
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/diy-casings/custom-speaker-grill-1-16-dia-staggered-black.html
> 
> the material is awesome and its black coated


Thanks for the link. Maybe on my next evolv top lol. Shipping my current one to be cut this week. Will let you guys know how it comes out.


----------



## alanthecelt

Didn't think about using speake rgrill.. i'm going with mesh under my grill to try and keep it looking stock ish


----------



## paskowitz

I wish I could find the mesh that Phanteks uses for the front filter. All the mesh or dust filters I have found online have been very restrictive.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I wish I could find the mesh that Phanteks uses for the front filter. All the mesh or dust filters I have found online have been very restrictive.


Not as restrictive as an aluminum slab lol.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Just spoke to modmymods since I am also in NY about cutting the top panel. Said it shouldn't be an issue, will keep thread updated if mine works out.


Yes!!

Definitely still interested in this mod for my case. I've already done the space mod on the front, but the top need improvement.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Yes!!
> 
> Definitely still interested in this mod for my case. I've already done the space mod on the front, but the top need improvement.


I'll be sending it up to Rochester on Thursday or tmr night. Will update when I get it back.


----------



## Boost240

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serag4fx*
> 
> Hello every one i just wanted to share my work almost done, hope you like it
> 
> it's dual 360 GTS


Very nice. What are your temps at idle and load, please. Also your fan speeds, if you don't mind


----------



## paskowitz

For anyone wondering what a slim 280 and a fat p/p 360 looks like in an Evolv.



That top right area was a royal PIA. A U flow top rad would have been better in hindsight.


----------



## alanthecelt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> For anyone wondering what a slim 280 and a fat p/p 360 looks like in an Evolv.
> 
> 
> 
> That top right area was a royal PIA. A U flow top rad would have been better in hindsight.


that's what my build is in middle of
although i moved the 280 right up and more to the right, and flipped the 360 now so the ports are at the bottom.


----------



## alanthecelt

for reference
i bought a 140mm fan filter for the rear:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171975367653?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=470862907677&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

the mesh/holes is indistinguishable from the mesh in the slots on the lid of the case


----------



## serag4fx

top panel done


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serag4fx*
> 
> top panel done


Did you cut this yourself?


----------



## serag4fx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Did you cut this yourself?


absolutely not









it was made by manual milling machine .. i just refined the edges and cut the grill to fit


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serag4fx*
> 
> absolutely not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it was made by manual milling machine .. i just refined the edges and cut the grill to fit


Yea I am getting mine sent out for cutting tmr. Hopefully comes out as well as yours. I wonder what's the exact paint code. I'd want to respray mine. Mine is grey like yours, kinda made me wish I got the black lol.


----------



## serag4fx

actually mine is black may be the light make it look gray, for the paint code i don't know really but i think its andonized aluminum not powder coated


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serag4fx*
> 
> top panel done


That came out much better than I thought it would.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serag4fx*
> 
> top panel done
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks nice!








Do you know the mesh pattern specifications? Looks like a round hole staggered pattern. I'm curious what the hole size and pattern spacing are. Here is a drawing to show how mesh specifications are done.







I normally use staggered hexagonal mesh because it is less restrictive, but your staggered round mesh looks good.


----------



## alanthecelt

i think its 2mm hole triangular..
best i could find that looked right for mine, was hexagonal with larger holes...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanthecelt*
> 
> i think its 2mm hole triangular..
> best i could find that looked right for mine, was hexagonal with larger holes...


I did a rough scale measurment and get abour 5.8 mm center to center with 2 mm bar .. about 3.8 mm holes.

May ask where you bought it?


----------



## serag4fx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you know the mesh pattern specifications? Looks like a round hole staggered pattern. I'm curious what the hole size and pattern spacing are. Here is a drawing to show how mesh specifications are done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I normally use staggered hexagonal mesh because it is less restrictive, but your staggered round mesh looks good.


yes, you are right it's round hole staggered pattern with 3.8 mm hole diameter with 1 or 2 mm spacing. i am really glad it came out like this as i am ordering international so i wasn't having the option for many trials because the shipping cost to egypt is ridiculous


----------



## nycgtr

Sent mine off this morning for cutting. Crosses fingers


----------



## alanthecelt

the mesh in the top of my lid is no way 3.8mm holes.....
finished my cutout.. ended up drilling, using a metal cutting jigsaw and a quick file



i'm still waiting on my mesh to turn up.... bought mine via ebay...


----------



## dublethink

Few update on my own WC build project Nemesis.

Joining a hacking club so should have access to a CNC machine, lathe and laser cutter which im going to use for phase 3 of my build. (phase 1 air cool, phase 2 water cool, phase 3 modding)

Found this build on the net today and they put a small display with real time info on- couldn't find any specs on what they used and love the look of it so am going to try to replicate. Anyone have any idea what kind of screen they used and how the likely fed the inputs for it?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dublethink*
> 
> Few update on my own WC build project Nemesis.
> 
> Joining a hacking club so should have access to a CNC machine, lathe and laser cutter which im going to use for phase 3 of my build. (phase 1 air cool, phase 2 water cool, phase 3 modding)
> 
> Found this build on the net today and they put a small display with real time info on- couldn't find any specs on what they used and love the look of it so am going to try to replicate. Anyone have any idea what kind of screen they used and how the likely fed the inputs for it?


It's a small hdmi powered lcd. You can get them pretty cheap on ebay. It just functions as an additional display. the reslution isn't too great but it doesn't matter. look for lcds for raspberry pi. I bought one for like 25 bucks on ebay for mine. Just haven't gotten around to it yet.


----------



## Paperchaser

Hi All,

I need some advise on the below.

Please see both scetched setups:

Airflow 1#



This setup has my H100i V2 in the front with 2x 120MM intake, at the top 3x 120MM outtake and at the end 1x 140MM outtake.

This makes a total of 2x intake and 4x outtake, this will make a negativ airflow

Airflow 2#



This setup has my H100i V2 at the top with 2x 120MM outtake, 3x 120MM at the front intake and at the end 1x140MM outtake.

This makes a total of 3x intake and 3x outtake, this will make a neutral airflow

Which airflow do you guys recommend?

I will connect the 3x 120MM with a 4-Pin PWM Splitter (1x PWM -> 3x PWM) 30CM Sleeved Black.

I will connect the 2x 120MM with a DarkSide 4-pin PWM Dual Fan Power Y-cable Splitter - Jet Black

I will connect the 1x 140MM with a 4-Pin PWM Fan Extension Cable 30CM .

Also which program can I use the best to control my fans?

I hope you guys can help me out.

Cheers,


----------



## paskowitz

Option 1 and just keep the exhaust fan speeds low. If your mobo had fan control, use that. If not, speedfan.


----------



## dublethink

I heard your better off using the fixed rpm noisblockers and voltage controlling them. Less noise than the pwm one (source using 6 epopp b12-2 on my build for this reason)


----------



## gerrardo

I think you are better off having that rear fan blow in versus out as that fan helps push air over mosfets and other heatsinks near/around CPU socket that is all passively cooled.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gerrardo*
> 
> I think you are better off having that rear fan blow in versus out as that fan helps push air over mosfets and other heatsinks near/around CPU socket that is all passively cooled.


That's exactly how mine is set up works well


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paperchaser*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I need some advise on the below.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Please see both scetched setups:
> 
> Airflow 1#
> 
> 
> 
> This setup has my H100i V2 in the front with 2x 120MM intake, at the top 3x 120MM outtake and at the end 1x 140MM outtake.
> 
> This makes a total of 2x intake and 4x outtake, this will make a negativ airflow
> 
> Airflow 2#
> 
> 
> 
> This setup has my H100i V2 at the top with 2x 120MM outtake, 3x 120MM at the front intake and at the end 1x140MM outtake.
> 
> This makes a total of 3x intake and 3x outtake, this will make a neutral airflow
> 
> Which airflow do you guys recommend?
> 
> I will connect the 3x 120MM with a 4-Pin PWM Splitter (1x PWM -> 3x PWM) 30CM Sleeved Black.
> 
> I will connect the 2x 120MM with a DarkSide 4-pin PWM Dual Fan Power Y-cable Splitter - Jet Black
> 
> I will connect the 1x 140MM with a 4-Pin PWM Fan Extension Cable 30CM .
> 
> Also which program can I use the best to control my fans?
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you guys can help me out.
> 
> Cheers,


Do you own a 'reference' design blower-style cooler or a 'non-reference' design? Generally blower-style GPU's are not impacted by radiator positioning, but I've seen a few tests performed where a non-reference design air cooler from an AIB partner like ASUS or Gigabyte are affected by radiator positioning. From what I've seen installing the radiator at the front of the chassis was better for CPU temperatures. The reason for this is due to the hot air that the non-reference designs emit that isn't exhausted properly. All the hot air is drawn through the radiator at the top of the case and inefficiently cools the radiator fins. Compare that to a front-mounted radiator that draws its air from outside the case. Rarely will a front-mounted rad affect GPU temperatures by anything more than 1-2°C. A GPU does not need super cool air to perform well.

However, this may not 'the best' way to install your radiator as the EVOLV has restricted intake. Therefore the radiator may be better installed in the ceiling. If you're able to, test both setups and compare temperatures. That's the best thing to do. Don't worry about positive/negative pressure. It's an overrated concept and holds little impact on temperatures or dust buildup. Guys like Singularity Computers have pushed these ideologies to death and it's really not as important as people say as you should still clean your system every few months. If you're able to create positive pressure, do it, but don't fret over it.

Also, I second the installation of an intake at the back. Whether you install the radiator at the front of the case or the top, an intake at the rear is likely going to help CPU or motherboard temperatures. Again, this isn't definitive. Test both configurations and see for yourself. There is no wrong or right way to do it.


----------



## Paperchaser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Do you own a 'reference' design blower-style cooler or a 'non-reference' design? Generally blower-style GPU's are not impacted by radiator positioning, but I've seen a few tests performed where a non-reference design air cooler from an AIB partner like ASUS or Gigabyte are affected by radiator positioning. From what I've seen installing the radiator at the front of the chassis was better for CPU temperatures. The reason for this is due to the hot air that the non-reference designs emit that isn't exhausted properly. All the hot air is drawn through the radiator at the top of the case and inefficiently cools the radiator fins. Compare that to a front-mounted radiator that draws its air from outside the case. Rarely will a front-mounted rad affect GPU temperatures by anything more than 1-2°C. A GPU does not need super cool air to perform well.
> 
> However, this may not 'the best' way to install your radiator as the EVOLV has restricted intake. Therefore the radiator may be better installed in the ceiling. If you're able to, test both setups and compare temperatures. That's the best thing to do. Don't worry about positive/negative pressure. It's an overrated concept and holds little impact on temperatures or dust buildup. Guys like Singularity Computers have pushed these ideologies to death and it's really not as important as people say as you should still clean your system every few months. If you're able to create positive pressure, do it, but don't fret over it.
> 
> Also, I second the installation of an intake at the back. Whether you install the radiator at the front of the case or the top, an intake at the rear is likely going to help CPU or motherboard temperatures. Again, this isn't definitive. Test both configurations and see for yourself. There is no wrong or right way to do it.


Can you please specify what you mean with reference design blower style cooler or a non reference cooler?

Never heard of that.

I will put my rear fan on intake, I have seen alot of positive reactions on that.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paperchaser*
> 
> Can you please specify what you mean with reference design blower style cooler or a non reference cooler?
> 
> Never heard of that.
> 
> I will put my rear fan on intake, I have seen alot of positive reactions on that.


Nvidia 'reference' design is the design Nvidia makes directly. It uses their proprietary cooling solution and in-house PCB. It draws air in and blows it out the back with one fan.



This is a 'non-reference' design that uses a custom heatsink and a dual-fan design by an add-in board (AIB) partner such as EVGA, MSI, Zotac, etc. It does not exhaust the air out of the back of the case.



This is AMD's 'reference' design. It uses the same design principles of drawing air in the front and blowing it out the rear of the case by the IO shield. This is a relatively inefficient design for anything but SLI/Crossfire or mITX cases that are limited on space and air.



This is a board partner for AMD and their 'non-reference' design that blows air over the GPU core and other components and is then left to circulate in the case before (hopefully) being exhausted by chassis fans. This is a much more efficient way of cooling the GPU, but only in well ventilated areas such as mid-tower cases with plenty of intake and exhaust.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paperchaser*
> 
> Can you please specify what you mean with reference design blower style cooler or a non reference cooler?
> 
> Never heard of that.
> 
> I will put my rear fan on intake, I have seen alot of positive reactions on that.


I'd have it exhausting, although it depends on your other fans. Typically you would have the rear fan exhausting hot air.


----------



## Paperchaser

Hi All,

Just a quick update on my request.

I have installed the fans, the airflow and temps are AMAZING! My CPU cores reach 40 celcius tops at 100% load.

See below for visual.














And the most important part.. really quiet!


----------



## alanthecelt

small bit of progress
radiators secured
plumbing done as much as i can until gpu and cpu are in
slight change of plan in pipe routing..
the vertical pipe will have some fixings so it runs parallel to the radiator to make it more pleasing


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paperchaser*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> Just a quick update on my request.
> 
> I have installed the fans, the airflow and temps are AMAZING! *My CPU cores reach 40 celcius tops at 100% load.*
> 
> See below for visual.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the most important part.. really quiet!


Are you running a Pentium at stock clocks, or are you considering running Minesweeper 100% load?


----------



## Paperchaser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Are you running a Pentium at stock clocks, or are you considering running Minesweeper 100% load?


Can you specify what you mean?

I run a i5 6600K overclocked to 4.3Ghz.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paperchaser*
> 
> Can you specify what you mean?
> 
> I run a i5 6600K overclocked to 4.3Ghz.


And....you have a 6600K with a CLC with 40C cores when running a stress test (Prime95, AIDA64, OCCT, etc) using a CLC? Unless your PC is in a walk in freezer, that is a little hard to believe given that the norm for significantly better cooling systems would be considerably higher. If that is the reading you are getting, you likely have a sensor issue.


----------



## Paperchaser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> And....you have a 6600K with a CLC with 40C cores when running a stress test (Prime95, AIDA64, OCCT, etc) using a CLC? Unless your PC is in a walk in freezer, that is a little hard to believe given that the norm for significantly better cooling systems would be considerably higher. If that is the reading you are getting, you likely have a sensor issue.


Everthing just works fine.. I have done alot of stress testing with AIDA64 and all my cores got an average of 43C after 5 hours of stress testing.
The tempature in my room is pretty cool, but also I make sure there is no dust in my system.

I use a air compressor every week just to make sure there's no dust in the fans. I takes me 2min.

I play alot of CS:GO and Battlefield 1 and after a 2-hour gaming session, my cores are max 39/40C.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Did you alt/tab out of battlefield to check your temps? Run in windowed mode with HWMonitor open on the side.


----------



## Paperchaser

When i check the temps, i always run in Window mode.

If you alt/tab at the moment of gaming the temps will decrease.


----------



## alanthecelt

modified a cooler master bracket and thermaltake pcie 3 riser cable , test fitted on what can only be described as a powerful gpu


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanthecelt*
> 
> modified a cooler master bracket and thermaltake pcie 3 riser cable , test fitted on what can only be described as a powerful gpu


Looks like my old GeForce 2 MX. Probably slightly newer judging by the larger passive heatsink, but definitely early 2000s by the turquoise PCB.

I'm guessing you've been in the game for a while.


----------



## alanthecelt

iv'e been building pcs for ~25 years, not normally very involved, but usually reasonable specs, that GPU is just one that was to hand at work

so... more stuff arrived today








vent panel is a little glossier than i hoped ah well.
i can make the anodized ally a little more glossy to match


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paperchaser*
> 
> Everthing just works fine.. I have done alot of stress testing with AIDA64 and all my cores got an average of 43C after 5 hours of stress testing.
> The tempature in my room is pretty cool, but also I make sure there is no dust in my system.
> 
> I use a air compressor every week just to make sure there's no dust in the fans. I takes me 2min.
> 
> I play alot of CS:GO and Battlefield 1 and after a 2-hour gaming session, my cores are max 39/40C.


Can you share the secret of getting a CLC to perform around 20C cooler than every test that was done of the same cooler in a controlled environment with standardized test methods? Actually more than 20C given the "quiet" part.


----------



## Paperchaser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Can you share the secret of getting a CLC to perform around 20C cooler than every test that was done of the same cooler in a controlled environment with standardized test methods? Actually more than 20C given the "quiet" part.


Just tell me with which stress test program I need to stress test my computer and I will share a screen dump.

Let me know and if you like what you see, I can tell you more about my system.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paperchaser*
> 
> Just tell me with which stress test program I need to stress test my computer and I will share a screen dump.
> 
> Let me know and if you like what you see, I can tell you more about my system.


No, I was just curious. No need to post another unicorn photo.


----------



## Paperchaser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> No, I was just curious. No need to post another unicorn photo.


I can only tell you that my computer is standing in a dust free area / room, the temperature in this room is around 19/20C.

I use 3x 120MM Noiseblocker eLoop B-12 PS as front intake on 800rpm (really quiet and enough air movement). I know these fans are PWM. But I prefer them on a fixed 800rpm.

I use 2x 120MM Noiseblocker eLoop B-12 PS at the top of my case attached to my H100i V2 radiator. I have placed them above the radiator and not beneath.
This will make sure the air will get pulled through the radiator correctly and will not leave any hot air.

I use 1x 140MM Noiseblocker Casefan eLoop B14-PS as rear fan to exhaust on a 800rpm.

I also make sure that i un-dust my case every week with a compressor.. this will take me 2 minutes. Make sure you have your fans locked.
Don't let your fans move when you blow air in.. this can cause really bad damage.

That's the secret.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanthecelt*
> 
> iv'e been building pcs for ~25 years, not normally very involved, but usually reasonable specs, that GPU is just one that was to hand at work
> 
> so... more stuff arrived today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> vent panel is a little glossier than i hoped ah well.
> i can make the anodized ally a little more glossy to match


I wish that top vent was flush with the case. Otherwise looks terrific.


----------



## alanthecelt

yer.. if i had direct access to a milling machine i would have slotted it in the same pattern then re anodized or painted
but
i had to cut by hand....and seeing the exposed cut would never be pleasing

also... went to work out the plumbing from pump to gpu.. to only find that there was interference with the gpu mounted vertically..
looks like by flipping the pump bracket i can gain a few mm clearance.. spacers and screws ordered.. fingers crossed
also on way is a taller res for the pump


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paperchaser*
> 
> I can only tell you that my computer is standing in a dust free area / room, the temperature in this room is around 19/20C.
> 
> I use 3x 120MM Noiseblocker eLoop B-12 PS as front intake on 800rpm (really quiet and enough air movement). I know these fans are PWM. But I prefer them on a fixed 800rpm.
> 
> I use 2x 120MM Noiseblocker eLoop B-12 PS at the top of my case attached to my H100i V2 radiator. I have placed them above the radiator and not beneath.
> This will make sure the air will get pulled through the radiator correctly and will not leave any hot air.
> 
> I use 1x 140MM Noiseblocker Casefan eLoop B14-PS as rear fan to exhaust on a 800rpm.
> 
> I also make sure that i un-dust my case every week with a compressor.. this will take me 2 minutes. Make sure you have your fans locked.
> Don't let your fans move when you blow air in.. this can cause really bad damage.
> 
> That's the secret.


That really doesn't explain *20+ degrees* lower than every other test and user out there, and significantly lower than could be expected from a custom loop of top quality components.


----------



## nycgtr

A 6600k sits in my primo right now, attached to a 480 rad. It loads out from 45-50s c across the 4 cores with an ambient in the low 20s. I find your temps a bit off for max load of 43 lol. My 6600k idles in the low 20-26c across cores


----------



## bl1tzk1213g

Im about to start my build and got this case, how difficult is it to fit an RX360 on top and RX240 up front? I've read about a lot of modifications up top? I'm just planning on doing a push on the rx360s up top so my fans will show


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bl1tzk1213g*
> 
> Im about to start my build and got this case, how difficult is it to fit an RX360 on top and RX240 up front? I've read about a lot of modifications up top? I'm just planning on doing a push on the rx360s up top so my fans will show


It's a bad look with thick rads. Even if I had modded the top the rx would hang at an unattractive level. Also fitting 2 thick ones, I know I tried it, didnt workout at all. Not to mention performance is even worse.

This is with fans modded at the top and a rx rad. What it would look like


Thre's a slim 240 in the front. You could put a thick but fitting it might be an issue. However, once again performance just isnt as good.

This is with 2 slim 360s


These are both from my pc before many revisions in this case.


----------



## bl1tzk1213g

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> It's a bad look with thick rads. Even if I had modded the top the rx would hang at an unattractive level. Also fitting 2 thick ones, I know I tried it, didnt workout at all. Not to mention performance is even worse.
> 
> This is with fans modded at the top and a rx rad. What it would look like
> 
> 
> Thre's a slim 240 in the front. You could put a thick but fitting it might be an issue. However, once again performance just isnt as good.
> 
> This is with 2 slim 360s
> 
> 
> These are both from my pc before many revisions in this case.


Didn't know it was going to be that bad... How about 2 x Nemesis 360gts, one on top and one up front? Will I be safe from butchering the top of the case? I don't mind modding a little bit but not too much


----------



## nycgtr

You don't need to do anything to the case to fit 2 of those. That's what I have in my bottom pic


----------



## nycgtr

So I got evolv my top cut figured I post it here and in the evolv thread for those interested. Joe over at ModMyMods did this for me. Very reasonable pricing and I highly suggest you guys to hit him up. Joe was very accommodating in offering to cut this panel by request, and was in constant contact about the panel. I sent him just a basic idea of what I wanted and he got it done.







I choose to use a decimex filter (which amazon sent to me with some wrinkles which I will have to iron out or eventually replace it with modders mesh). I think for a cost effective measure this was a great job to a very problematic solution to us evolv owners.


----------



## paskowitz

Looks pretty good. I'm sure you'll get performance on par with the top off.


----------



## jassmith

@nycgtr that new top looks fantastic. So good in fact I reached out like you suggested and they are (hopefully) going to do a mod for me where they will use a CNC machine to put holes in the top like this:



Thanks for pointing them out, I am really excited to see how it turns out.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassmith*
> 
> @nycgtr that new top looks fantastic. So good in fact I reached out like you suggested and they are (hopefully) going to do a mod for me where they will use a CNC machine to put holes in the top like this:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for pointing them out, I am really excited to see how it turns out.


ModmyMods?


----------



## jassmith

Yessir


----------



## revel2k9

I spoke with them about this also. Im waiting to get a quote on what it will cost. If its not too bad considering shipping there, back, and price of the mod then ill be doing this as opposed to trying to do a mod myself.


----------



## milkguru

damn that actually looks really good - would make the case a lot more functional and doesn't really detract from the aesthetic

phanteks should take note


----------



## paskowitz

Thoughts on something like this? Red = cut.



Middle red sections would look similar to this but with less depth:


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Thoughts on something like this? Red = cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Middle red sections would look similar to this but with less depth:


Looks nice but looks a bit aggressive compared to the side existing vents imo.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Looks nice but looks a bit aggressive compared to the side existing vents imo.


Increase or decrease opening/slat size? Increase/decrease number of openings?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Increase or decrease opening/slat size? Increase/decrease number of openings?


Maybe decrease to 4? But larger to still get the airflow.


----------



## paskowitz

?

If I keep them the same spacing and length as the side vents and just increase the height, that should mesh aesthetically.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> If I keep them the same spacing and length as the side vents and just increase the height, that should mesh aesthetically.


That's nice. I like it much better than the first.


----------



## paskowitz

I agree. Should be pretty doable with a CNC.


----------



## nycgtr

I would use that design tbh. I think if we all narrowed down to a single design for a run it would be very plausible.


----------



## jassmith

Problem with the slotted designs is you cant really have super sharp corners like that. Interior corners need at least a 1/8th inch rounding radius.


----------



## kevindd992002

Has anyone already tried mounting an H220X in front of the Evolv ATX? If so, can you guys post some pictures of it?

Also, if I were to use a Black Ice GTS 280 up top together with the H220X on front, what is the best reservoir I can use? Is it mountable on the case itself?


----------



## revel2k9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> If I keep them the same spacing and length as the side vents and just increase the height, that should mesh aesthetically.


I'd totally be in for this design


----------



## nycgtr

Not home wife snapped the lid on. Just a general idea of mine.


----------



## aberrero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Not home wife snapped the lid on. Just a general idea of mine.


Nice!


----------



## trawetSluaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Has anyone already tried mounting an H220X in front of the Evolv ATX? If so, can you guys post some pictures of it?
> 
> Also, if I were to use a Black Ice GTS 280 up top together with the H220X on front, what is the best reservoir I can use? Is it mountable on the case itself?


when I had my H220-X in the front:










And now:










On a side note, can you guys give me an idea of how much your Case Top mods are costing? Interested in doing it myself funds allowing.


----------



## paskowitz

I think, don't quote me, ModmyMods said ~$25+shipping. A brand new panel is about $30 from Phanteks.


----------



## trawetSluaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I think, don't quote me, ModmyMods said ~$25+shipping. A brand new panel is about $30 from Phanteks.


That's less than I expected. Might have to look into this with some local companies, IF I can find any!


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I think, don't quote me, ModmyMods said ~$25+shipping. A brand new panel is about $30 from Phanteks.


I was told that it's going to be more than that to do it again, as it takes longer than they expected. Unless the process can be done more efficiently. Guys expect 40 + shipping.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I was told that it's going to be more than that to do it again, as it takes longer than they expected. Unless the process can be done more efficiently. Guys expect 40 + shipping.


Oh ok. I talked to then a couple days ago so things probably changed.


----------



## jassmith

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I was told that it's going to be more than that to do it again, as it takes longer than they expected. Unless the process can be done more efficiently. Guys expect 40 + shipping.


Honestly I was ready to pay about $100 to $120 for the work. Only paying $50 sounds great. I probably shouldn't give them any ideas...


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassmith*
> 
> Honestly I was ready to pay about $100 to $120 for the work. Only paying $50 sounds great. I probably shouldn't give them any ideas...


It depends on how long it takes. For something like mine its 40. If you wanted more complex then yea sure the price be higher.


----------



## trawetSluaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassmith*
> 
> Honestly I was ready to pay about $100 to $120 for the work. Only paying $50 sounds great. I probably shouldn't give them any ideas...


This was what I expected. Not sure which companies to approach in the UK!


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassmith*
> 
> Honestly I was ready to pay about $100 to $120 for the work. Only paying $50 sounds great. I probably shouldn't give them any ideas...


The reason for all this is because so many of us contacted CNC shops and got quoted something like $120 (worst I got was $300... lol) and were like... eh. IMO $40-50 is fine. $75-100 is a bit much, especially if they do a run.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> The reason for all this is because so many of us contacted CNC shops and got quoted something like $120 (worst I got was $300... lol) and were like... eh. IMO $40-50 is fine. $75-100 is a bit much, especially if they do a run.


Metalshops in nyc either thought the job was too small or wanted 100-150 minimum lol. It's a joke really. Good thing there are these shops willing to do the work and charge honestly.


----------



## jassmith

Lol just got an email back from them, they are definitely watching this thread.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassmith*
> 
> Lol just got an email back from them, they are definitely watching this thread.


Lol, same. Hi Joe!


----------



## nycgtr

So I load tested the top. My temps are 1c hotter than without a top at all lol. Same ambient same fan curve. My gpu maxed out 1c higher than before under full load for an hour.


----------



## jassmith

Pretty much margin of error difference. Im hoping the hole pattern will be pretty close. I do expect it to be slightly more restrictive than what you have, but hopefully not so much so as to hurt the effect too much.


----------



## bl1tzk1213g

If I mount my radiator all the way to the frame of the case, will it decrease the performance since theres very little gap for the air to move out?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jassmith

Only a little. The bigger problem is the complete lack of top ventilation.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> when I had my H220-X in the front:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a side note, can you guys give me an idea of how much your Case Top mods are costing? Interested in doing it myself funds allowing.


Is there still an H220-X on that new layout? I plan to mount my H220-X on the front this but would I still be able to mount an additional reservoir?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> So I load tested the top. My temps are 1c hotter than without a top at all lol. Same ambient same fan curve. My gpu maxed out 1c higher than before under full load for an hour.


Does this mean that the mod didn't do much of a difference?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Is there still an H220-X on that new layout? I plan to mount my H220-X on the front this but would I still be able to mount an additional reservoir?
> 
> Does this mean that the mod didn't do much of a difference?


It's a huge difference. It's as if I didn't have the restrictive top at all. When I had that top cover elevated and resting my water temp would go as high as 52-54. Now it never goes past 46. Same ambient.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> It's a huge difference. It's as if I didn't have the restrictive top at all. When I had that top cover elevated and resting my water temp would go as high as 52-54. Now it never goes past 46. Same ambient.


Ok. But why are your components 1C hotter when you load tested?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok. But why are your components 1C hotter when you load tested?


1c with the modded lid or no lid at all. May just be a margin of error but I am very happy about the modded top.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> 1c with the modded lid or no lid at all. May just be a margin of error but I am very happy about the modded top.


Oh ok, I see what you're saying. And this is when the top rad is set to exhaust? Since then, you put back the rad bracket to its original config be with all hinges clipped on?


----------



## aberrero

has anyone tried modding their fans so they exhuast air out the sides instead of upwards? Like by cutting out the side walls and mounting them as pull fans? I want to try it but it sounds kind of crazy.


----------



## trawetSluaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Is there still an H220-X on that new layout? I plan to mount my H220-X on the front this but would I still be able to mount an additional reservoir?
> 
> Does this mean that the mod didn't do much of a difference?


No, haven't got the H220-X anymore. That's a custom loop.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> No, haven't got the H220-X anymore. That's a custom loop.


Do you happen to have any other pics that can help me estimate the clearance between the midplate and the bottom section of the 240mm rad of the H220X?


----------



## trawetSluaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Do you happen to have any other pics that can help me estimate the clearance between the midplate and the bottom section of the 240mm rad of the H220X?


No sorry. I had the H220-X approx a couple of mm above the midplate if that helps.


----------



## BigRed1987

Hi Folks

Thanks to all the info in this thread i decided on the Enthoo Evolv ATX case and what to do with it.

I figured id add a few photos to show what I've done and hopefully it can help others also.

At work we have a water jet cutter (not something available to everyone but what i used).

Materials

Aluminium perforated sheet (Ebay)

Black spray paint (Plastikote)

Metal Epoxy Glue.

.............................................................
The drawing office kindly set this up for me to use with the water cutter. (Sizes may help others do the same)

http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/IMG_5987.jpg.html

The water jet cut out the holes

http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/F6FB3C21-83A3-4285-86BE-967FD47A2303.jpg.html

Sanded the edges lightly

http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/IMG_5991.jpg.html

Sprayed my perforated sheet black

http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/2A2B2DAB-B6FB-489D-9457-000ECF973BC6.jpg.html

Trial fitted it all using double sided sticky tape

Glued the perforated sheet in place.

http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/621780F1-55B6-4A0C-98B0-F60A8062D9EC.jpg.html

Masked it all off and sprayed the perforated sheet and cut edges to blend it all in.

http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/827D7A21-D598-45E1-A1E8-A8E674F737DD.jpg.html

http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/IMG_6021.jpg.html

Also for others wanting to know Phanteks were very helpful and reasonable in providing a spare top cover. (I live in Scotland and wanted a spare in case this all went horribly wrong.)

"The top panel for the Enthoo Evolv ATX AG would cost €30,- including shipping. If you agree, we will prepare the payment details to process your request.

Best,
Phanteks Team"

SIDE NOTE: For masking off the top radiator section and holes (suggested earlier in the thread) I found Aluminium tape very easy to use. Minimal mess and hassle.


----------



## tbuttery

Joe over at modmymods is looking into doing a run of these tops.

So sit tight fellas! They are working details out with Phanteks and a final design.


----------



## trawetSluaP

OOOOHHH, does that mean I'd be able to order from Phanteks!?????


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Joe over at modmymods is looking into doing a run of these tops.
> 
> So sit tight fellas! They are working details out with Phanteks and a final design.


Yeah, what does this mean? Does it mean that there's going to be a single final design and we can order from Phanteks or from modmymods?


----------



## paskowitz

I would guess they order in bulk from Phanteks, cut at their site, then ship out to customers.


----------



## kevindd992002

Any ETA on this though?


----------



## trawetSluaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I would guess they order in bulk from Phanteks, cut at their site, then ship out to customers.


Hope Phanteks sells them as I'm in the UK!


----------



## Paperchaser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigRed1987*
> 
> Hi Folks
> 
> Thanks to all the info in this thread i decided on the Enthoo Evolv ATX case and what to do with it.
> 
> I figured id add a few photos to show what I've done and hopefully it can help others also.
> 
> At work we have a water jet cutter (not something available to everyone but what i used).
> 
> Materials
> 
> Aluminium perforated sheet (Ebay)
> 
> Black spray paint (Plastikote)
> 
> Metal Epoxy Glue.
> 
> .............................................................
> The drawing office kindly set this up for me to use with the water cutter. (Sizes may help others do the same)
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/IMG_5987.jpg.html
> 
> The water jet cut out the holes
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/F6FB3C21-83A3-4285-86BE-967FD47A2303.jpg.html
> 
> Sanded the edges lightly
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/IMG_5991.jpg.html
> 
> Sprayed my perforated sheet black
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/2A2B2DAB-B6FB-489D-9457-000ECF973BC6.jpg.html
> 
> Trial fitted it all using double sided sticky tape
> 
> Glued the perforated sheet in place.
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/621780F1-55B6-4A0C-98B0-F60A8062D9EC.jpg.html
> 
> Masked it all off and sprayed the perforated sheet and cut edges to blend it all in.
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/827D7A21-D598-45E1-A1E8-A8E674F737DD.jpg.html
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/IMG_6021.jpg.html
> 
> Also for others wanting to know Phanteks were very helpful and reasonable in providing a spare top cover. (I live in Scotland and wanted a spare in case this all went horribly wrong.)
> 
> "The top panel for the Enthoo Evolv ATX AG would cost €30,- including shipping. If you agree, we will prepare the payment details to process your request.
> 
> Best,
> Phanteks Team"
> 
> SIDE NOTE: For masking off the top radiator section and holes (suggested earlier in the thread) I found Aluminium tape very easy to use. Minimal mess and hassle.


Bro this is so sick!! I hope this can be ordered fast at phankets or modmymods.

I WANT THIS SO BAD!


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigRed1987*
> 
> Hi Folks
> 
> Thanks to all the info in this thread i decided on the Enthoo Evolv ATX case and what to do with it.
> 
> I figured id add a few photos to show what I've done and hopefully it can help others also.
> 
> At work we have a water jet cutter (not something available to everyone but what i used).
> 
> Materials
> 
> Aluminium perforated sheet (Ebay)
> 
> Black spray paint (Plastikote)
> 
> Metal Epoxy Glue.
> 
> .............................................................
> The drawing office kindly set this up for me to use with the water cutter. (Sizes may help others do the same)
> 
> .


Looks very nice. I am thinking about replacing the filter on mine to perforated aluminum as well. I choose the filter orginally since i felt it was something I could easily remove and clean since it's magnetic but the sheet I guess I could use strong double sided adhesive for.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yeah, what does this mean? Does it mean that there's going to be a single final design and we can order from Phanteks or from modmymods?


From what I understand you will order from Joe or modmymods. They are acquiring tops from Phanteks.

He told me he is hoping to have everyrhibg worked out next week. Main thing is figuring out a good top cut design.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> From what I understand you will order from Joe or modmymods. They are acquiring tops from Phanteks.
> 
> He told me he is hoping to have everyrhibg worked out next week. Main thing is figuring out a good top cut design.


Great then! Is this something that you're talking about through email?


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Great then! Is this something that you're talking about through email?


Yes.

He is making a list so I would inquire about it and get on the list!


----------



## aberrero

Here is the design:


__
http://instagr.am/p/BS7cBCJAyyp%2F/


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aberrero*
> 
> Here is the design:
> 
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/BS7cBCJAyyp%2F/


Would it include the dust filter already?


----------



## Paperchaser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Would it include the dust filter already?


I need to know this aswell, is there dust filter?

Can you also put my on the list? I want to purchase


----------



## jassmith

I think we'll find out monday. I suspect he intends to take both custom orders and have these pre-made designs. Personally I would like one *without* a strong dust filter because its an exhaust for me and I want whatever dust that goes through it to just pass out of the case. Its a computer not a HEPA filter


----------



## trawetSluaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Yes.
> 
> He is making a list so I would inquire about it and get on the list!


How do I get on the list and will it be available internationally!?


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> How do I get on the list and will it be available internationally!?


I am unsure about international. But email Joe over at modmymods and he will let you know.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassmith*
> 
> I think we'll find out monday. I suspect he intends to take both custom orders and have these pre-made designs. Personally I would like one *without* a strong dust filter because its an exhaust for me and I want whatever dust that goes through it to just pass out of the case. Its a computer not a HEPA filter


Makes sense







Or it better be removable just like any dust filter in the case.


----------



## nycgtr

I ordered some perforated aluminum to replace the filtered mesh I put on there. Will see how it looks when I get it.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I ordered some perforated aluminum to replace the filtered mesh I put on there. Will see how it looks when I get it.


After modding the top panel to have holes in it, you can put the rad bracket back to its original configuration (latched and screwed on) without affecting temps negatively, right? And do you still need to cover unused holes by then?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> After modding the top panel to have holes in it, you can put the rad bracket back to its original configuration (latched and screwed on) without affecting temps negatively, right? And do you still need to cover unused holes by then?


Modding the top lid has no impact on the rad bracket as that is a totally separate piece. As for covering the unused holes, I don't think it makes a difference once you've modded the top. The purpose of the holes to was prevent trapped hot air in the lid from going back into the case. I still have the unused areas covered as I can't be asked to remove it. I can't see it with the filter on anyway so lol.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Modding the top lid has no impact on the rad bracket as that is a totally separate piece. As for covering the unused holes, I don't think it makes a difference once you've modded the top. The purpose of the holes to was prevent trapped hot air in the lid from going back into the case. I still have the unused areas covered as I can't be asked to remove it. I can't see it with the filter on anyway so lol.


Yes, I get that part. But remember, you unlatch the rad bracket and just "rest" it on top to allow more room for air to flow. So that's why I asked if unlatching the rad brackets and leaving it resting on top will make a difference when the top panel is already modded? Same logic as covered unused areas  Did you put your rad bracket back to being latched?


----------



## senna89

Hi guys

In the Phanteks Evolv ATX is possible remove the HDD structure in the bottom ?
I dont means only removing the 3 HDD bay but remove all the "drawer"

This !
In the botton - left


----------



## boredgunner

^ Yes, it requires removing screws on the bottom and perhaps elsewhere too (I've forgotten).


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yes, I get that part. But remember, you unlatch the rad bracket and just "rest" it on top to allow more room for air to flow. So that's why I asked if unlatching the rad brackets and leaving it resting on top will make a difference when the top panel is already modded? Same logic as covered unused areas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you put your rad bracket back to being latched?


I answered this before to you last time. The improvements of just resting the top is minimal very minimal. 2-3c at best on full load and it looks funny imo.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I answered this before to you last time. The improvements of just resting the top is minimal very minimal. 2-3c at best on full load and it looks funny imo.


Yeah, you did but that was before you had your top panel modded. Like I said, I'm wondering if there would be even any difference now that your top panel is modded? I hope you get what I mean. However minimal the difference is, I still want to know.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yeah, you did but that was before you had your top panel modded. Like I said, I'm wondering if there would be even any difference now that your top panel is modded? I hope you get what I mean. However minimal the difference is, I still want to know.










Bro, I have like no temp difference between having no top at all vs the modded top. Resting a modded top isn't going be different than not resting it.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bro, I have like no temp difference between having no top at all vs the modded top. Resting a modded top isn't going be different than not resting it.


Oh, I think I've misunderstood the whole thing! So the one you unlatch and rest on top is the top panel itself? All along I thought it was the rad bracket! Sorry, LOL. That's why we weren't understanding each other, stupid me


----------



## trawetSluaP

I'm currently running a single 360 rad to cool a 6850K and 1080Ti. Will adding another 280 in the front have a big impact on temps? Would you guys say it's worth the additional cost?


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> I'm currently running a single 360 rad to cool a 6850K and 1080Ti. Will adding another 280 in the front have a big impact on temps? Would you guys say it's worth the additional cost?


I think it definitely will. Not sure by how much. What temps do you see right now?

For example, I run two 360mm rads and I never see my water temps go above 90-91F during loads.


----------



## trawetSluaP

Max temps are around 55C for CPU and GPU. If I had the top panel mod they'd probably go down to 45C (ish). My understanding is that if I add another rad I will also be able to run the fans at a lower speed too.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> Max temps are around 55C for CPU and GPU. If I had the top panel mod they'd probably go down to 45C (ish). My understanding is that if I add another rad I will also be able to run the fans at a lower speed too.


What fan speeds are you running now and your ambient?


----------



## trawetSluaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> What fan speeds are you running now and your ambient?


Speeds are around 1200rpm @ 40%. Abient is between 20-30C as my house is fairly new and keeps a lot of heat in.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> Speeds are around 1200rpm @ 40%. Abient is between 20-30C as my house is fairly new and keeps a lot of heat in.


Well my fan speeds right now max out at 1200 in load. They run super slow when I am just at desktop. My ambient ranges from 25-31c. 25 being the lowest pretty much. Although I have 2 cards (txp
oced ) in sli I am getting like 55 (both cards pegged at 98-99%) on the hottest card after about 2 hrs of gaming with 2 360s. I don't feel there's much of a benefit to you to have another rad as a 360 is enough but that's up to you.


----------



## trawetSluaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Well my fan speeds right now max out at 1200 in load. They run super slow when I am just at desktop. My ambient ranges from 25-31c. 25 being the lowest pretty much. Although I have 2 cards (txp
> oced ) in sli I am getting like 55 (both cards pegged at 98-99%) on the hottest card after about 2 hrs of gaming with 2 360s. I don't feel there's much of a benefit to you to have another rad as a 360 is enough but that's up to you.


Thanks,

I should have clarified that the 1200rpm is at full load.


----------



## READTHESCROLL

Really glad I read 75% of this thread lol. Just joined up to show support for the modified top-cover. Been looking for something like this for my build. Now I can mount rad/fans higher up without worrying about them choking.. Hope they don't sell out too quickly when they are released! Do you guys think they will do something for the front panel as well? I'd def get both if I could.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *READTHESCROLL*
> 
> Really glad I read 75% of this thread lol. Just joined up to show support for the modified top-cover. Been looking for something like this for my build. Now I can mount rad/fans higher up without worrying about them choking.. Hope they don't sell out too quickly when they are released! Do you guys think they will do something for the front panel as well? I'd def get both if I could.


I don't see any reason why a front panel mod wouldn't be possible. I'll come up with a proposal design since you guys seemed to like my top panel one.


----------



## READTHESCROLL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I don't see any reason why a front panel mod wouldn't be possible. I'll come up with a proposal design since you guys seemed to like my top panel one.


I'd love to see a hexagonal pattern cutout or long trapezoidal slits. Something geometric to complement angles of the case.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I don't see any reason why a front panel mod wouldn't be possible. I'll come up with a proposal design since you guys seemed to like my top panel one.


Maybe for aesthetics. However, I tested mine without any front panel vs with a front panel raised out by 2-3mm. Literally 0 difference.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Maybe for aesthetics. However, I tested mine without any front panel vs with a front panel raised out by 2-3mm. Literally 0 difference.


And what temps are we talking about, air or water temps?


----------



## jassmith

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Maybe for aesthetics. However, I tested mine without any front panel vs with a front panel raised out by 2-3mm. Literally 0 difference.


How are you raising out the front panel and keeping it stable? For me front panel on vs off is about 2 degrees different. If I can get that 2 degrees just by raising the panel slightly I really would like to.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassmith*
> 
> How are you raising out the front panel and keeping it stable? For me front panel on vs off is about 2 degrees different. If I can get that 2 degrees just by raising the panel slightly I really would like to.


It's further back in this thread. i will try to find it.

Get some plastic washers and insert them between the panel and the bracket clip. This will extend the front panel out.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassmith*
> 
> How are you raising out the front panel and keeping it stable? For me front panel on vs off is about 2 degrees different. If I can get that 2 degrees just by raising the panel slightly I really would like to.


The 2 plates used to mount the front. Use another screw and a padded rubber washer or even just folded paper to extend it from the base mounting points using a longer screw. There's a like 3-4mm screw in the screwbox that's the same thread.


----------



## jassmith

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> The 2 plates used to mount the front. Use another screw and a padded rubber washer or even just folded paper to extend it from the base mounting points using a longer screw. There's a like 3-4mm screw in the screwbox that's the same thread.


Yup that worked perfectly. Can barely tell the difference, doesn't look any worse, and improves temps. Phanteks really needs to release a v3 of this case.


----------



## Raxus

Hey guys. I was considering the EVOLV ATX case. I really like the looks of the case, but I'm concerned with the top flow being too restrictive now.

I will be using an H110i in the top. 7700k OC'd to 4.8 ghz. with a 1080 ti strix in the case. I won't modify the top of the case, although I would buy a different one if phanteks ever offered one.

Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raxus*
> 
> Hey guys. I was considering the EVOLV ATX case. I really like the looks of the case, but I'm concerned with the top flow being too restrictive now.
> 
> I will be using an H110i in the top. 7700k OC'd to 4.8 ghz. with a 1080 ti strix in the case. I won't modify the top of the case, although I would buy a different one if phanteks ever offered one.
> 
> Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks


Not sure if you read up a bit on the thread....but modmymods is looking into a final design and they will be doing a run of modified top panels. They will be buying new panels directly from phanteks as well.


----------



## jassmith

For a single radiator setup with no custom loop the restriction is fine. Just tape off the extra holes on the bracket the radiator doesn't fill.


----------



## READTHESCROLL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raxus*
> 
> Hey guys. I was considering the EVOLV ATX case. I really like the looks of the case, but I'm concerned with the top flow being too restrictive now.
> 
> I will be using an H110i in the top. 7700k OC'd to 4.8 ghz. with a 1080 ti strix in the case. I won't modify the top of the case, although I would buy a different one if phanteks ever offered one.
> 
> Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks


A few pages back it was mentioned that there will/might be a run of modified tops by ModMyMods in the US. I'm betting on that myself. The other thing you can do if the hoses are long enough is mount the radiator on the front intake and use the top and rear for exhaust. That way your CPU gets fresher air to cool it and you dont have the heat from the graphics card rising up through the radiator as well.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raxus*
> 
> Hey guys. I was considering the EVOLV ATX case. I really like the looks of the case, but I'm concerned with the top flow being too restrictive now.
> 
> I will be using an H110i in the top. 7700k OC'd to 4.8 ghz. with a 1080 ti strix in the case. I won't modify the top of the case, although I would buy a different one if phanteks ever offered one.
> 
> Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks


Aio in the front you'll be fine.


----------



## alanthecelt

so.. i would be leak testing today if ek had actually delivered the longer reservoir that i had ordered
so here it stands.. ready for test filling and firing up for the first time
dismantling a £700 GPU to fit a waterblock was scary.. more so than delidding the cpu....


----------



## glegz

Hey guys! Another new member here to show support for that top cover! I've been following this thread for several days already! I hope we can get that modded cover soon. I've been trying to get something similar done here locally, but most of the shops I've talked to won't do it unless it is a large order, and the ones willing to do it want over 200 dollars! I was ready to bust out the cutoff wheel and saw, but I would wait and support modmymods for this project!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glegz*
> 
> Hey guys! Another new member here to show support for that top cover! I've been following this thread for several days already! I hope we can get that modded cover soon. I've been trying to get something similar done here locally, but most of the shops I've talked to won't do it unless it is a large order, and the ones willing to do it want over 200 dollars! I was ready to bust out the cutoff wheel and saw, but I would wait and support modmymods for this project!


I just heard back from Joe from modymods and was told that the modded top panel with the final design from Phanteks will be available for sale in 2 weeks time.


----------



## glegz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I just heard back from Joe from modymods and was told that the modded case with the final design from Phanteks will be available for sale in 2 weeks time.


Are you talking about a whole new case design or just the top cover?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I just heard back from Joe from modymods and was told that the modded case with the final design from Phanteks will be available for sale in 2 weeks time.


It would seem Phanteks has given this initiative their blessing. That's good.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glegz*
> 
> Are you talking about a whole new case design or just the top cover?


Sorry, I meant modded top panel.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> It would seem Phanteks has given this initiative their blessing. That's good.


Yeah, they better do that at the least. They don't even acknowledge that the original top panel was poorly thought of.


----------



## glegz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Sorry, I meant modded top panel.


Oh good. I was ready to return my case!


----------



## serfeldon

I have a question about distance of fans to radiator. Is 6 to 7 mm too far?


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I just heard back from Joe from modymods and was told that the modded top panel with the final design from Phanteks will be available for sale in 2 weeks time.


Did he give any hints as to the final design?


----------



## milkguru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> [
> 
> Did he give any hints as to the final design?


This was posted a few pages back...
Apparently this is it?

__
http://instagr.am/p/BS7cBCJAyyp%2F/

A bit disappointing to be honest, if that is the final design. It's about as standard as it gets, looks like a DIY job at home.

Now if it looked more like what jassmith posted http://cdn.overclock.net/b/ba/ba377c46_rTe0jvo.jpeg then i'll be all over it.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *milkguru*
> 
> This was posted a few pages back...
> Apparently this is it?
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/BS7cBCJAyyp%2F/
> 
> A bit disappointing to be honest, if that is the final design. It's about as standard as it gets, looks like a DIY job at home.
> 
> Now if it looked more like what jassmith posted http://cdn.overclock.net/b/ba/ba377c46_rTe0jvo.jpeg then i'll be all over it.


Ditto.

I want some sort of metal grid or something to protect the filter and the very least.

You could easily push that filter off.

I just emailed him to check. He wasn't too keen on keeping that as the final design.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *milkguru*
> 
> This was posted a few pages back...
> Apparently this is it?
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/BS7cBCJAyyp%2F/
> 
> A bit disappointing to be honest, if that is the final design. It's about as standard as it gets, looks like a DIY job at home.
> 
> Now if it looked more like what jassmith posted http://cdn.overclock.net/b/ba/ba377c46_rTe0jvo.jpeg then i'll be all over it.


Check the one I posted. (in the thread image gallery ) Yay? Nay?


----------



## glegz

I would really like it to be the three square openings like in the previous page. Also, does the front cover have restrictions too? Should we start looking into cutting vent holes too?


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glegz*
> 
> I would really like it to be the three square openings like in the previous page. Also, does the front cover have restrictions too? Should we start looking into cutting vent holes too?


Get some rubber washers, i.e. Home Depot plumbing area, and shim your front panel forward. Works great, lowers temps, and still looks good.

I really thing cutting the front panel will ruin the look of this case.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *milkguru*
> 
> This was posted a few pages back...
> Apparently this is it?
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/BS7cBCJAyyp%2F/
> 
> A bit disappointing to be honest, if that is the final design. It's about as standard as it gets, looks like a DIY job at home.
> 
> Now if it looked more like what jassmith posted http://cdn.overclock.net/b/ba/ba377c46_rTe0jvo.jpeg then i'll be all over it.


That's actually my pc. I chose that for maximum airflow. I know it looks standard and tbh I can't see it as my view angle doesn't allow me to. I chose the largest space that didn't look weird. As for the filter it's removable as it's magnetically attached from the bottom. You could not take it off unless you removed the lid them removed intenionaly as the magnetic strip is entire perimeter of the filter. I could easily swap it out for something more firm like a speak grill or aluminum perforated plate. The most important thing for me was temps and then aesthetics afterwards. I have almost identical temps without the top. Now that I've had the id for a few days I can tell you heat will still build up under the lid but not enough to effect temps in more than what can be considered a repeatable small margin of 1c at best 2c. The hole or other cuts would be more looks orientated. However, I will say that it will not produce as much of a temp difference as a more open design would.

For a reference point. I have 2 360 gts in this case which is pretty much the maximum possible without severe modding or attaching rads to the exterior. It is currently 25.5c ambient. Under load my hottest gpu is hitting 51-52c and I have sli.

In terms of fan speed they are at 1200 rpm max. I find increasing my fans which go all the way up to 2400 does not bring a dramatic or worth while change over the noise it brings.


----------



## glegz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Get some rubber washers, i.e. Home Depot plumbing area, and shim your front panel forward. Works great, lowers temps, and still looks good.
> 
> I really thing cutting the front panel will ruin the look of this case.


I was thinking of drilling a bunch of tiny holes (1/8") close together in a grid pattern, kind of like a built in grille.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Did he give any hints as to the final design?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Ditto.
> 
> I want some sort of metal grid or something to protect the filter and the very least.
> 
> You could easily push that filter off.
> 
> I just emailed him to check. He wasn't too keen on keeping that as the final design.


I haven't specifically asked him about it but I also emailed him now asking about the final design.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> That's actually my pc. I chose that for maximum airflow. I know it looks standard and tbh I can't see it as my view angle doesn't allow me to. I chose the largest space that didn't look weird. As for the filter it's removable as it's magnetically attached from the bottom. You could not take it off unless you removed the lid them removed intenionaly as the magnetic strip is entire perimeter of the filter. I could easily swap it out for something more firm like a speak grill or aluminum perforated plate. The most important thing for me was temps and then aesthetics afterwards. I have almost identical temps without the top. Now that I've had the id for a few days I can tell you heat will still build up under the lid but not enough to effect temps in more than what can be considered a repeatable small margin of 1c at best 2c. The hole or other cuts would be more looks orientated. However, I will say that it will not produce as much of a temp difference as a more open design would.
> 
> For a reference point. I have 2 360 gts in this case which is pretty much the maximum possible without severe modding or attaching rads to the exterior. It is currently 25.5c ambient. Under load my hottest gpu is hitting 51-52c and I have sli.
> 
> In terms of fan speed they are at 1200 rpm max. I find increasing my fans which go all the way up to 2400 does not bring a dramatic or worth while change over the noise it brings.


Do you have your top rad set to exhaust? If so, then it would be better to remove the filter, right?

@All

Can you mount a 280mm rad on front in such a way that the drive cages below the midplate aren't affected?


----------



## milkguru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> That's actually my pc. I chose that for maximum airflow. I know it looks standard and tbh I can't see it as my view angle doesn't allow me to. I chose the largest space that didn't look weird. As for the filter it's removable as it's magnetically attached from the bottom.


I hope you didn't take offense to that, i didnt mean it in a bad way. It doesn't look bad by any means. I just meant, if I'm going to pay for a company to mod a top panel, I'd want it to be a bit more complex in terms of design. I could cut out a large rectangle myself.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glegz*
> 
> I was thinking of drilling a bunch of tiny holes (1/8") close together in a grid pattern, kind of like a built in grille.


I personally wouldn't do that. I've seen positive temp decreases by just offsetting the front with washers. Once we get the new top panel mods, then I will be happy.

Just for example, when playing something like BF1 or The Division, my temps used to increase to 90-93F on the water temp. No they hardly reach 90F after multiple hours of game play. That is still with the top panel on as well. I expect it to go down another few degrees after I get the top panel modded.


----------



## tbuttery

Looks like they are leaning towards this design.



This was originally "Paskowitz" design, but i think they slightly modified it.

I like it. Goes with the case pretty well. I asked how large those holes are so we can compare surface area to the one large opening done by them originally. I'd like to make sure we are choking any air flow by going with this.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Looks like they are leaning towards this design.
> 
> 
> 
> This was originally "Paskowitz" design, but i think they slightly modified it.
> 
> I like it. Goes with the case pretty well. I asked how large those holes are so we can compare surface area to the one large opening done by them originally. I'd like to make sure we are choking any air flow by going with this.


I got the same reply an hour ago  It's not yet final but he is definitely open to more suggestions so it's better to talk to him now than later. They're making sure not to have a design that will increase the overall cost of the panel.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Looks like they are leaning towards this design.
> 
> 
> 
> This was originally "Paskowitz" design, but i think they slightly modified it.
> 
> I like it. Goes with the case pretty well. I asked how large those holes are so we can compare surface area to the one large opening done by them originally. I'd like to make sure we aren't choking any air flow by going with this.


It was a super rough mock up in Ps. I'm sure they had to clean it up.

~343cm^2 (53in^2) (42.9cm^2 per hole *8 holes) is the total area for the all holes. IMO that should be plenty. FYI stock is ~<75cm^2(including mesh)... probably closer to 50cm^2. I mean, outside of some nightmare volume of air scenario with a 360mm rad and 3000rpm Noctua fans running at full blast... but really now. Perhaps the only really valid exception would be a 360mm radiator mounted directly to the very top of the Evolv chassis. In that instance, I could _possibly_ see my design performing _slightly_ worse than a full cut out.

I think the main thing to focus on is aesthetics.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> It was a super rough mock up in Ps. I'm sure they had to clean it up.
> 
> ~343cm^2 (53in^2) (42.9cm^2 per hole *8 holes) is the total area for the all holes. IMO that should be plenty. FYI stock is ~<75cm^2(including mesh)... probably closer to 50cm^2. I mean, outside of some nightmare volume of air scenario with a 360mm rad and 3000rpm Noctua fans running at full blast... but really now. Perhaps the only really valid exception would be a 360mm radiator mounted directly to the very top of the Evolv chassis. In that instance, I could _possibly_ see my design performing _slightly_ worse than a full cut out.
> 
> I think the main thing to focus on is aesthetics.


Agreed on the aesthetics. That combined area is actually slightly more than the full cutout I believe.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *milkguru*
> 
> I hope you didn't take offense to that, i didnt mean it in a bad way. It doesn't look bad by any means. I just meant, if I'm going to pay for a company to mod a top panel, I'd want it to be a bit more complex in terms of design. I could cut out a large rectangle myself.


None taken. I was going to cut it myself but I didn't have the tools or the space to do it. So it's actually was more cost and time feasible for me to do it this way.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Agreed on the aesthetics. That combined area is actually slightly more than the full cutout I believe.


Possibly, however, the rad as you know is mounted on the left. I emailed joe about the run yesterday, he told me he might pop in the thread once they have it finalized. I might pick one up just to test at the end.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Possibly, however, the rad as you know is mounted on the left. I emailed joe about the run yesterday, he told me he might pop in the thread once they have it finalized. I might pick one up just to test at the end.


You're correct. In the end I like the look.

Yes he said they may send one to you for testing since you are relatively close!

On another note, can you get custom size Demciflex Filters?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> It was a super rough mock up in Ps. I'm sure they had to clean it up.
> 
> ~343cm^2 (53in^2) (42.9cm^2 per hole *8 holes) is the total area for the all holes. IMO that should be plenty. FYI stock is ~<75cm^2(including mesh)... probably closer to 50cm^2. I mean, outside of some nightmare volume of air scenario with a 360mm rad and 3000rpm Noctua fans running at full blast... but really now. Perhaps the only really valid exception would be a 360mm radiator mounted directly to the very top of the Evolv chassis. In that instance, I could _possibly_ see my design performing _slightly_ worse than a full cut out.
> 
> I think the main thing to focus on is aesthetics.


edit was look at the wrong measurements haha.

My cut out is 33.2cm by 15.2cm. Therefore the area is 504.64cm


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> You're correct. In the end I like the look.
> 
> Yes he said they may send one to you for testing since you are relatively close!
> 
> On another note, can you get custom size Demciflex Filters?


Not sure as I never tried but I found this size to be pretty good without making a huge gaping gap in the top lid that looks off. As with anything custom as long as your willing to pay I am sure it's possible.


----------



## milkguru

i wouldn't mind something along the lines of this.

this took me literally like 30 seconds in paint, so the spacing isn't even and its pretty rough. but it's more just to show proof of concept - could try different sized slots, number of slots, different spacing etc


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I haven't specifically asked him about it but I also emailed him now asking about the final design.
> Do you have your top rad set to exhaust? If so, then it would be better to remove the filter, right?
> 
> @All
> 
> Can you mount a 280mm rad on front in such a way that the drive cages below the midplate aren't affected?


Yes its exhaust. Top being intake would just be the biggest facepalm. The filter has no effect on the exhaust.


----------



## kevindd992002

Can you mount a 280mm rad on front in such a way that the drive cages below the midplate aren't affected?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Yes its exhaust. Top being intake would just be the biggest facepalm. The filter has no effect on the exhaust.


Gotcha. Well there are people who swear by an intake top but we're on the same page.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Gotcha. Well there are people who swear by an intake top but we're on the same page.


Why is an intake on the top the biggest facepalm??

My front and top rads are both intakes with only my rear fan as the exhaust. And I get great temps.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Why is an intake on the top the biggest facepalm??
> 
> My front and top rads are both intakes with only my rear fan as the exhaust. And I get great temps.


Not the biggest facepalm for me but too much intake (which I think is present in your situation) would just produce hot air pockets inside the case. And the Evolv ATX with the stock top panel is really not designed for a top rad intake.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Not the biggest facepalm for me but too much intake (which I think is present in your situation) would just produce hot air pockets inside the case. And the Evolv ATX with the stock top panel is really not designed for a top rad intake.


Yes I modded the top bracket so my fans are mounted above my radiator. Hot pockets? I have pretty sufficient air flow through the case, and then it gets sucked out by a fairly high RPM 140MM fan in the back.

I guess it's all preference, because in the grand scheme it hardly makes any difference either way.

It's all air flow...ie fluid dynamics. Doesn't matter if its pulling in or pushing out. It still needs sufficient area to achieve the desired flow without to much pressure loss or back pressure.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Why is an intake on the top the biggest facepalm??
> 
> My front and top rads are both intakes with only my rear fan as the exhaust. And I get great temps.


In my experience convection plays a huge role even in watercooling. It seems to me unnatural to go against that.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Yes I modded the top bracket so my fans are mounted above my radiator. Hot pockets? I have pretty sufficient air flow through the case, and then it gets sucked out by a fairly high RPM 140MM fan in the back.
> 
> I guess it's all preference, because in the grand scheme it hardly makes any difference either way.
> 
> It's all air flow...ie fluid dynamics. Doesn't matter if its pulling in or pushing out. It still needs sufficient area to achieve the desired flow without to much pressure loss or back pressure.


Yup, I agree. @doyll can explain fluid dynamics so much better with computations. There are a lot of Youtube videos comparing intake and exhaust top rad and got better temps with exhaust but then again it all depends on the components in your system.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yup, I agree. @doyll can explain fluid dynamics so much better with computations. There are a lot of Youtube videos comparing intake and exhaust top rad and got better temps with exhaust but then again it all depends on the components in your system.


Yes so could I. Refining Engineer, Mechanical by Degree.

But let's not turn this into that type of thread! To each his own!

Patiently awaiting my Top Panel...


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Yes so could I. Refining Engineer, Mechanical by Degree.
> 
> But let's not turn this into that type of thread! To each his own!
> 
> Patiently awaiting my Top Panel...


Agreed


----------



## jassmith

Ya'll suck, if you hadn't tried to make Joe so much money by all getting panels too I'd probably have my panel sooner. Jerks









If he does the angled chevron design I hope hes willing to do either the 3 square hole design or the circle hole array design as well because I wont buy the chevron design. If not I guess I'll have to look for someone else to cut the holes :/


----------



## paskowitz

IDK what MMM's capabilities are but based on the fact that tastes vary (shocking!), it would probably worth considering either multiple available designs (3 squares, parallelograms, mesh holes) or multiple designs with a custom option (higher cost and time). I highly doubt there is going to be one design that everyone loves.


----------



## jassmith

I agree, it kind of shocks me to think the chevron design, which is clearly the most aggressive looking is the frontrunner for the standard design, but hey, to each their own.


----------



## Raxus

Does anyone know what the process for acquiring one of these tops will be?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raxus*
> 
> Does anyone know what the process for acquiring one of these tops will be?


Well, he told me that we'll be buying the modded top panel directly from him. So he gets the original top panel from Phanteks in bulk and resells them modded to us. He also said that it would be cheaper to buy a modded panel from him instead of sending your original panel to him, modding that panel, and sending it back to you, so yeah.


----------



## Raxus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Well, he told me that we'll be buying the modded top panel directly from him. So he gets the original top panel from Phanteks in bulk and resells them modded to us. He also said that it would be cheaper to buy a modded panel from him instead of sending your original panel to him, modding that panel, and sending it back to you, so yeah.


Thanks for the info. I assume we'll be able to just purchase it from his site.


----------



## READTHESCROLL

MNPC has some acrylic vented front panel replacements for our case if anyone is interested..

https://mnpctech.com/phanteks-case-mods/evolv-atx-vented-bezel/


----------



## bl1tzk1213g

A little off topic question here. I'm in the middle of my build, 2 x Black Ice GTS 360 rads. So how does that phanteks fan hub work exactly? I know you need to have it connected to a PWM fan header from the mobo and that header will only read "FAN_1" in the phanteks fan hub. I'm thinking of using 6 of my Gentle Typhoons 1850 non pwm version but I'm unsure how it will perform or be controlled by the hub? by voltage or pwm? I also have brand new SP120 performance editions PWM that I could use. Will the SP120 perform better or be controlled better via software/windows? Am I better off running the fans via mobo header and bypassing the phanteks fan hub?

_in short_. Gentle Typhoons 1850 NON PWM *versus* Corsair SP120 Performance edition PWM version

-Ease of adjusting via software and/or auto adjust using PHANTEKS FAN HUB
-performance with GTS 360 rads
-SP120 looks better but if there will be no difference with gentle typhoons, I would rather have $90 back to me.

Thanks guys!

PS. KUDOS for having a mature conversation despite differences in opinions


----------



## jassmith

The phanteks fan hub takes in a PWM signal and outputs voltage control to all fans. This in my opinion makes it worthless for many situations. However if your fans are voltage control fans then it is perfect for you.


----------



## bl1tzk1213g

So I won't be able to see my fan speed because they're not pwm right? And even if I connect pwm fans, they will act as non pwm correct?


----------



## K2theoolaid

How do I get on the list of people interested in getting their top panel of the case modified? Because I'm highly interested


----------



## trawetSluaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K2theoolaid*
> 
> How do I get on the list of people interested in getting their top panel of the case modified? Because I'm highly interested


E-mail the guys over a ModMyMods.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassmith*
> 
> The phanteks fan hub takes in a PWM signal and outputs voltage control to all fans. This in my opinion makes it worthless for many situations. However if your fans are voltage control fans then it is perfect for you.


The Phanteks PWM controlled fan hub works very well with 4-10 variable voltage fans plugged into it, but you are correct .. it is nearly 'worthless' for PWM fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bl1tzk1213g*
> 
> So I won't be able to see my fan speed because they're not pwm right? And even if I connect pwm fans, they will act as non pwm correct?


Any fan plugged into #1 header on Phanteks fan hub sends it's rpm signal to motherboard, but that is the only fan rpm you will see. Motherboard fan headers can only monitor the speed one fan. I don't know of any fan header on anything that can monitor the speed of more than one fan.


----------



## Paperchaser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassmith*
> 
> I think we'll find out monday. I suspect he intends to take both custom orders and have these pre-made designs. Personally I would like one *without* a strong dust filter because its an exhaust for me and I want whatever dust that goes through it to just pass out of the case. Its a computer not a HEPA filter


Any update?


----------



## jassmith

Haven't gotten an update from him in a couple days. I think hes responded to some other folks however.


----------



## paskowitz

This is going to take some time guys. Setting up a CNC to do consistent runs is not a trivial procedure.


----------



## SlushPuppy007

@ricinsing

how did you do the mod for the top fans and radiator ?


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlushPuppy007*
> 
> @ricinsing
> 
> how did you do the mod for the top fans and radiator ?


What do you need to know? Fans above the radiator?


----------



## milkguru

Has anyone that's put the fans above the radiator bracket recorded their temps before and after doing so?

So many people say not to do it because it kills your temps, but as far as i can tell (without actually having the case), the air still has to pass through the same vents, so wouldn't restriction be the same?

Maybe it'd be more obvious if I had the case in front of me, but I don't fully understand why it's that bad for temps.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *milkguru*
> 
> Has anyone that's put the fans above the radiator bracket recorded their temps before and after doing so?
> 
> So many people say not to do it because it kills your temps, but as far as i can tell (without actually having the case), the air still has to pass through the same vents, so wouldn't restriction be the same?
> 
> Maybe it'd be more obvious if I had the case in front of me, but I don't fully understand why it's that bad for temps.


Air is a fluid. You can only cram so much of it into a given volume. Not to mention fighting against it's own turbulence. Slam a 360 rad up there and you are creating a nightmare scenario of resistance. The top cavity acts as a buffer against that. Without that, the air has nowhere to go but back into the case or even back through the radiator.


----------



## doyll

What @paskowitz said.







As beautiful as the Evolv is, it does not have much top venting. This has been explained in post #496 with links to more information
http://www.overclock.net/t/1598825/phanteks-enthoo-evolv-atx/480_20#post_25910134

For comparison:
A 240mm radiator (2x 120mm fans) has 288sq cm of finned radiator area
A 280mm radiator (2x 140mm fans) has 392sq cm of finned radiator area
A 360mm radiator (3x 120mm fans) has 432sq cm of finned radiator area


----------



## alanthecelt

Im interesting in getting one of the angled slotted top covers, watching intently, how will the cut be treated afterwards? or just left bare alumnium?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steely_Probiscis*
> 
> You can mount a 360 in the front. You've got approx 110mm in the floor cut out and you can still mount 2 HDDs on the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure how thick the pump section of h320 is?
> 
> If you're only going with one rad I would put in the front if you can work the tubing runs OK. You'll be pulling cool air over the rad and you've then got the all the options on rear and top mounts to balance out exhaust as you need.
> 
> I have mine this way - GTS360 - as I only watercool my CPU.


I thought mounting a GTS 360 up front will interfere with the two HDD brackets in the bottom chamber?


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I thought mounting a GTS 360 up front will interfere with the two HDD brackets in the bottom chamber?


It will. You have to remove that bottom HDD Mounting Bracket for any 360mm Radiator to work.


----------



## haszek

Also will be getting one of those top panels (no matter the design, they all look cool to me







+ the airflow benefits).


----------



## UWBandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigRed1987*
> 
> Hi Folks
> 
> Thanks to all the info in this thread i decided on the Enthoo Evolv ATX case and what to do with it.
> 
> I figured id add a few photos to show what I've done and hopefully it can help others also.
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/IMG_6021.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> At work we have a water jet cutter (not something available to everyone but what i used).
> 
> Materials
> 
> Aluminium perforated sheet (Ebay)
> 
> Black spray paint (Plastikote)
> 
> Metal Epoxy Glue.
> 
> .............................................................
> The drawing office kindly set this up for me to use with the water cutter. (Sizes may help others do the same)
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/IMG_5987.jpg.html
> 
> The water jet cut out the holes
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/F6FB3C21-83A3-4285-86BE-967FD47A2303.jpg.html
> 
> Sanded the edges lightly
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/IMG_5991.jpg.html
> 
> Sprayed my perforated sheet black
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/2A2B2DAB-B6FB-489D-9457-000ECF973BC6.jpg.html
> 
> Trial fitted it all using double sided sticky tape
> 
> Glued the perforated sheet in place.
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/621780F1-55B6-4A0C-98B0-F60A8062D9EC.jpg.html
> 
> Masked it all off and sprayed the perforated sheet and cut edges to blend it all in.
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/827D7A21-D598-45E1-A1E8-A8E674F737DD.jpg.html
> 
> Also for others wanting to know Phanteks were very helpful and reasonable in providing a spare top cover. (I live in Scotland and wanted a spare in case this all went horribly wrong.)
> 
> "The top panel for the Enthoo Evolv ATX AG would cost €30,- including shipping. If you agree, we will prepare the payment details to process your request.
> 
> Best,
> Phanteks Team"


Wow - this looks great! I will probably try to blatantly copy replicate this if/when I end up doing this mod for better ventilation. @BigRed1987 - can I ask where you sourced the perforated aluminum sheet?

Just popped in to say this thread has been very informative (if exhaustively long) as I begin my Evolv ATX build. Got the case three days ago and the rest should be delivered tomorrow. Can't wait to start my build and see how it looks/performs!


----------



## UWBandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigRed1987*
> 
> Hi Folks
> 
> Thanks to all the info in this thread i decided on the Enthoo Evolv ATX case and what to do with it.
> 
> I figured id add a few photos to show what I've done and hopefully it can help others also.
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/IMG_6021.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> At work we have a water jet cutter (not something available to everyone but what i used).
> 
> Materials
> 
> Aluminium perforated sheet (Ebay)
> 
> Black spray paint (Plastikote)
> 
> Metal Epoxy Glue.
> 
> .............................................................
> The drawing office kindly set this up for me to use with the water cutter. (Sizes may help others do the same)
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/IMG_5987.jpg.html
> 
> The water jet cut out the holes
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/F6FB3C21-83A3-4285-86BE-967FD47A2303.jpg.html
> 
> Sanded the edges lightly
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/IMG_5991.jpg.html
> 
> Sprayed my perforated sheet black
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/2A2B2DAB-B6FB-489D-9457-000ECF973BC6.jpg.html
> 
> Trial fitted it all using double sided sticky tape
> 
> Glued the perforated sheet in place.
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/621780F1-55B6-4A0C-98B0-F60A8062D9EC.jpg.html
> 
> Masked it all off and sprayed the perforated sheet and cut edges to blend it all in.
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/827D7A21-D598-45E1-A1E8-A8E674F737DD.jpg.html
> 
> Also for others wanting to know Phanteks were very helpful and reasonable in providing a spare top cover. (I live in Scotland and wanted a spare in case this all went horribly wrong.)
> 
> "The top panel for the Enthoo Evolv ATX AG would cost €30,- including shipping. If you agree, we will prepare the payment details to process your request.
> 
> Best,
> Phanteks Team"


Wow - this looks great! I will definitely blatantly copy emulate this design if/when I end up doing this mod for better ventilation Agreed that the chevron/parallelogram design looks a bit busy for this case's styling, but it doesn't look bad either!

Just popped in to say this thread has been very informative (if exhaustively long) as I begin my Evolv ATX build. Got the case three days ago, and the rest should be delivered tomorrow. Can't wait to start my build and see how it looks/performs!


----------



## gapsna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UWBandman*
> 
> Wow - this looks great! I will definitely blatantly copy emulate this design if/when I end up doing this mod for better ventilation Agreed that the chevron/parallelogram design looks a bit busy for this case's styling, but it doesn't look bad either!
> 
> Just popped in to say this thread has been very informative (if exhaustively long) as I begin my Evolv ATX build. Got the case three days ago, and the rest should be delivered tomorrow. Can't wait to start my build and see how it looks/performs!


Hi! same here!
My water cooling parts will probably arrive on Thursday (shipped today by ekwb). I will decide on this mod once I have the loop up and running and checking temperatures. But this is my first build so I really don't know which temps should be ok. I need to do some more research. What I will do from the beginning to the case, is put some washers on the front panel and block non-used holes on the radiator mounting.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gapsna*
> 
> Hi! same here!
> My water cooling parts will probably arrive on Thursday (shipped today by ekwb). I will decide on this mod once I have the loop up and running and checking temperatures. But this is my first build so I really don't know which temps should be ok. I need to do some more research. What I will do from the beginning to the case, is put some washers on the front panel and block non-used holes on the radiator mounting.


What components will be cooled by your loop? And what/how many radiators will you have?


----------



## gapsna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> What components will be cooled by your loop? And what/how many radiators will you have?


This is my HW. The GPU and CPU will be the only ones that will be water cooled. I was thinking on placing the 360 rad on top with the three silent wings 3 120mm fans. On the front I will leave the two 140 fans that came with the case as inlet and I'm not sure whether to leave the 140mm fan at the back as outlet or inlet and whether or not to change it for an extra silent wings 3 I have.

Mobo: Asus Maximus VIII Hero Alpha
Processor: Intel Core i7 6700K
GPU: MSI GTX 1070 Sea Hawk EK X
RAM: G.Skill 32(4x8)GB DDR4 2133MHz (will work a 3000Mhz)
PSU: Corsair RM650x 80+ Gold

Loop:
pump/res combo: EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
CPU block: EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel
Rad: EK-CoolStream PE 360
RadFans: 120x120x25mm be quiet! Silent Wings 3 PWM High-Speed 2200 U/min 28.6 dB(A)
Tubing: EK-HD PETG Tube 10/12mm
coolant: EK-CryoFuel Blood Red Premix


----------



## bl1tzk1213g

Just finished by build. I have the gts360 mounted on top chassis, will wait for custom too panel. I need to make this ram hit 3200mhz. 2933 is my beat atm

AMD R7 1700
Asrock X370 Taichi
Gskill trident-z 3200 cl14
Samsung 960 evo 250gb nvme
Nvidia Titan X (pascal)
Ek supremacy evo nickel WB
Ek titan-x wb
Evga 850 supernova g3
Aquacomputer aqualis with d5 pump
HL blackice gts360 radiators with Corsair sp120 performance fans































Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gapsna*
> 
> This is my HW. The GPU and CPU will be the only ones that will be water cooled. I was thinking on placing the 360 rad on top with the three silent wings 3 120mm fans. On the front I will leave the two 140 fans that came with the case as inlet and I'm not sure whether to leave the 140mm fan at the back as outlet or inlet and whether or not to change it for an extra silent wings 3 I have.
> 
> Mobo: Asus Maximus VIII Hero Alpha
> Processor: Intel Core i7 6700K
> GPU: MSI GTX 1070 Sea Hawk EK X
> RAM: G.Skill 32(4x8)GB DDR4 2133MHz (will work a 3000Mhz)
> PSU: Corsair RM650x 80+ Gold
> 
> Loop:
> pump/res combo: EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
> CPU block: EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel
> Rad: EK-CoolStream PE 360
> RadFans: 120x120x25mm be quiet! Silent Wings 3 PWM High-Speed 2200 U/min 28.6 dB(A)
> Tubing: EK-HD PETG Tube 10/12mm
> coolant: EK-CryoFuel Blood Red Premix


I am not sure how much heat the 6700K generates, but I am thinking you should be fine with the single 360mm. I believe they should be able to dissipate at least 1000W if not more of heat. It is really easy to add a radiator in the front if you want slightly more cooling capacity. I wouldn't feel comfortable with anything over 95-100F water temperature....but that's just me.

I have a 7700K and a 1070 Strix running on two 360mm Radiators and hardly hit 90F at full gaming loads. But, the 7700K is a serious contributor to heat output. The 7700K runs at 140F in my case.

This is a super good read on watercooling information...http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2196038/air-cooling-water-cooling-things.html


----------



## I-Siamak-I

Can someone please help me with my new build, I already bought the case with all my hardware except my 360 rad, I already have a Alphacool UT60 280mm rad which I'll be using in front and I wanna know if I can also have a Alphacool XT45 360mm on top with fans in push ( inside)? or do I have to use a Alphacool ST30 360mm instead?


----------



## nycgtr

Yes and prolly not a good idea. Why not read the the thread and look at the pictures. I have personally put up pics with thick rads in this case and so have others. Make some effort to search


----------



## I-Siamak-I

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Yes and prolly not a good idea. Why not read the the thread and look at the pictures. I have personally put up pics with thick rads in this case and so have others. Make some effort to search


I have and in fact for past several days been searching google for my answers, maybe As a result of not being able to fully understand or find the specifics i decided to ask fellow members who have higher knowledge with this case, you really don't have to be hostile about it.

Edit:
You mentioned it's probly not a good idea. You mean not a good idea to have 45mm rad on top, 30mm rad on top due to airflow issues or you mean something else?


----------



## jassmith

Dont use a thick rad on top. Use a 30mm or less.


----------



## I-Siamak-I

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassmith*
> 
> Dont use a thick rad on top. Use a 30mm or less.


Cool, is that because of the airflow issues? I have also been following this topic for past month or so and have seen a lot of ideas on modding the top panel. I still wanna use the rad tray on top so i will do what was suggested and cover any open hole and such. I will also remove all the side mesh from the top panel for extra airflow.


----------



## jassmith

Its for 2 reasons. The first is as you mentioned airflow issues. You already have to work your fans extra hard due to the airflow restriction, putting a thick radiator in there is really going to just make a bad situation worse. The second reason is looks. The 30mm rad + fans will already hand down about to the top of your CPU socket, a 45mm + fans will look silly.


----------



## I-Siamak-I

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassmith*
> 
> Its for 2 reasons. The first is as you mentioned airflow issues. You already have to work your fans extra hard due to the airflow restriction, putting a thick radiator in there is really going to just make a bad situation worse. The second reason is looks. The 30mm rad + fans will already hand down about to the top of your CPU socket, a 45mm + fans will look silly.


Ok I'm now set on using the 30mm rad, would you say it's gonna be helpful to have the rad mounted to top panel of case without the rad tray. I mean i really like to use the tray but if it's gonna be better look wise and performance wise I guess I can do that.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I-Siamak-I*
> 
> Ok I'm now set on using the 30mm rad, would you say it's gonna be helpful to have the rad mounted to top panel of case without the rad tray. I mean i really like to use the tray but if it's gonna be better look wise and performance wise I guess I can do that.


Only if you decide to get a modded top panel with more ventilation. Otherwise you will be choking your top rad.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I-Siamak-I*
> 
> I have and in fact for past several days been searching google for my answers, maybe As a result of not being able to fully understand or find the specifics i decided to ask fellow members who have higher knowledge with this case, you really don't have to be hostile about it.
> 
> Edit:
> You mentioned it's probly not a good idea. You mean not a good idea to have 45mm rad on top, 30mm rad on top due to airflow issues or you mean something else?


I've answered your exact question or near it a few times in this thread which is why I said to search. The 45 rad on top will choke for sure, I know this from first hand experience. If you run push pull without modding the top brace you will have no clearance even for a cpu block or come close to no clearance and half of what you will see is rad. As for the 280 going in the front. I have a 280 alphacool and it does not fit in the front and it is ut 60 because it is too wide.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Only if you decide to get a modded top panel with more ventilation. Otherwise you will be choking your top rad.


If I buy a modded top panel (from modmymods when it comes available), would it be better to not use the top rad bracket altogether? Where would you mount the rad in that situation? Do you have to mod anything up top if you don't use the rad bracket?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> If I buy a modded top panel (from modmymods when it comes available), would it be better to not use the top rad bracket altogether? Where would you mount the rad in that situation? Do you have to mod anything up top if you don't use the rad bracket?


You would have to make your own mounting bracket. Its only work it if you need the room for another rad (+modded top).


----------



## kaiqi07

Just to share. Decided not to wait get it done myself. Did some measurements and done up the drawing before sending the TOP panel to the metal workshop to get it cut.

Here is the end results.



http://imgur.com/iT47HSj


Had ordered perforated metal sheet will spray it black and place it under the panel holes.


----------



## gapsna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> Just to share. Decided not to wait get it done myself. Did some measurements and done up the drawing before sending the TOP panel to the metal workshop to get it cut.
> 
> Here is the end results.
> 
> Had ordered perforated metal sheet will spray it black and place it under the panel holes.


that looks pretty nice!! Hope to see more pictures once it's done!


----------



## jassmith

Would you mind sharing details about where you got it done, how much it cost, etc?

Also what are the 8 small holes for?


----------



## kaiqi07

I am from Singapore. Gotten it done up in my local metal works workshop. The holes are meant to secure the metal perforated metal sheet which is planned to be mounted underneath this TOP panel


----------



## xtopher

Hi kaiqi07, which metal works workshop here in SG did you have your beautiful top panel done, and how much did it cost you? Would you mind sharing the details so that I can have mine modded too? Thank you very much.


----------



## jassmith

In particular your plans that you had drawn up would be great


----------



## Paperchaser

I want this sooooo bad ???.

I hope that soon this kind of tops will be sold !!


----------



## alanthecelt

so.. i kind of finished my build
firstly.. i think it was mentioned elsewhere... my machine would not power up with the additional power connected to the fan controller.. fans work fine connected only to motherboard
Secondly, Thermaltake PCI-E riser cables.. my god.. it just didn't work, this is the "cheap" version... so currently my GPU is mounted conventionally...
And lastly.. wow, even with my vented top, it certainly gets hot up top, increasing my fan speeds slightly seems to have helped however


----------



## kaiqi07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xtopher*
> 
> Hi kaiqi07, which metal works workshop here in SG did you have your beautiful top panel done, and how much did it cost you? Would you mind sharing the details so that I can have mine modded too? Thank you very much.


It's a personal friend of mine whom helped me out.


----------



## gapsna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> I am not sure how much heat the 6700K generates, but I am thinking you should be fine with the single 360mm. I believe they should be able to dissipate at least 1000W if not more of heat. It is really easy to add a radiator in the front if you want slightly more cooling capacity. I wouldn't feel comfortable with anything over 95-100F water temperature....but that's just me.
> 
> I have a 7700K and a 1070 Strix running on two 360mm Radiators and hardly hit 90F at full gaming loads. But, the 7700K is a serious contributor to heat output. The 7700K runs at 140F in my case.
> 
> This is a super good read on watercooling information...http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2196038/air-cooling-water-cooling-things.html


Thank you for the reply! that reading material was very interesting! I now now a bit better how to plan the fans and loop. Unfortunately I didn't buy a temp sensor for the water loop, I will do that for when I clean my loop in some months.

My water cooling parts should arrive between today and tomorrow, so I'm taking probably Friday free to build/set up the system.


----------



## READTHESCROLL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/iT47HSj


Nice! This is almost exactly the design that I was envisioning for the top and front on mine. I think this looks awesome!


----------



## kaiqi07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *READTHESCROLL*
> 
> Nice! This is almost exactly the design that I was envisioning for the top and front on mine. I think this looks awesome!


Thank u sir, I am gonna do the front as well. But not as many rows/ columns of the hex. Too much kills the design. Will do up a draft design tonight when I get home for the front panel. Will underlay it with a black perforated metal sheet. The cutouts main goal is to increase the airflow for both intake and exhaust. Prepping for the WC setup, waiting for the blocks, res and radiators to arrive.


----------



## READTHESCROLL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> Thank u sir, I am gonna do the front as well. But not as many rows/ columns of the hex. Too much kills the design. Will do up a draft design tonight when I get home for the front panel. Will underlay it with a black perforated metal sheet. The cutouts main goal is to increase the airflow for both intake and exhaust. Prepping for the WC setup, waiting for the blocks, res and radiators to arrive.


Can't wait to see the front! I want to do it for the same reasons, plus I think it just looks cool haha. I'm in the middle of my first custom loop myself. Got blocks installed, rads will be here today! Still need to order my res/pump, fittings, tubing, and a few other small things.


----------



## milkguru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> Just to share. Decided not to wait get it done myself. Did some measurements and done up the drawing before sending the TOP panel to the metal workshop to get it cut.
> 
> Here is the end results.
> 
> Had ordered perforated metal sheet will spray it black and place it under the panel holes.


Do you know what kind of machine they used to cut it?
Water cutter? CNC mill/router? Laser cutter?

I definitely have access to a laser cutter at my uni - but im not too sure about a water cutter or cnc mill.
And I'm not too sure if the laser cutter would be suitable, I reckon it would likely end up damaging the finish slightly, as it obviously burns/melts through material. I've only ever used it on acrylic and mdf, so might not even be able to cut aluminium.


----------



## kaiqi07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *milkguru*
> 
> Do you know what kind of machine they used to cut it?
> Water cutter? CNC mill/router? Laser cutter?
> 
> I definitely have access to a laser cutter at my uni - but im not too sure about a water cutter or cnc mill.
> And I'm not too sure if the laser cutter would be suitable, I reckon it would likely end up damaging the finish slightly, as it obviously burns/melts through material. I've only ever used it on acrylic and mdf, so might not even be able to cut aluminium.


Water jet cutter. Laser will have risk burning the sides of the cuts which I Trying to avoid


----------



## alanthecelt

I noticed the PUS can be mounted "upside down" in here
currently the noisiest part of my sytsem is the PSU fan
the PSU is relatively new, 850w gold so replacing it would be... silly, and id end up with a 1.2kw platinum and another 1080ti... so to save money its unwise of me to consider
so... two options, replace the psu fan? or i was thinking if flipping the PSU so it breathes from inside the case would be wise?
it's an Aerocool xpredator 850w by the way


----------



## trawetSluaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanthecelt*
> 
> I noticed the PUS can be mounted "upside down" in here
> currently the noisiest part of my sytsem is the PSU fan
> the PSU is relatively new, 850w gold so replacing it would be... silly, and id end up with a 1.2kw platinum and another 1080ti... so to save money its unwise of me to consider
> so... two options, replace the psu fan? or i was thinking if flipping the PSU so it breathes from inside the case would be wise?
> it's an Aerocool xpredator 850w by the way


What PSU do you have? Might be worth checking if it has an ECO Mode. My EVGA unit has, and it doesn't spin the fan up until it hits 50C, which it never has since owning it hence it silent!


----------



## alanthecelt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> What PSU do you have? Might be worth checking if it has an ECO Mode. My EVGA unit has, and it doesn't spin the fan up until it hits 50C, which it never has since owning it hence it silent!


you know what.. i swear i saw a small switch on the back of it....................


----------



## alanthecelt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanthecelt*
> 
> you know what.. i swear i saw a small switch on the back of it....................


no, my mistake.. that was a PSU i was running the pump on....


----------



## trawetSluaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanthecelt*
> 
> no, my mistake.. that was a PSU i was running the pump on....


Grab yourself a better PSU, preferably EVGA as they come with a 10 year warranty and use Superflower as an OEM.


----------



## alanthecelt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> Grab yourself a better PSU, preferably EVGA as they come with a 10 year warranty and use Superflower as an OEM.


yer.... trying to avoid doing that as i know i will end up rationalizing SLI, ive got plenty of "silent" 120mm fans around might look at opening it up


----------



## glegz

Any updates on the top cover?


----------



## jassmith

His last email implied we might get some updates today.


----------



## Paperchaser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassmith*
> 
> His last email implied we might get some updates today.


Keep us posted pls. I'm dying for this.


----------



## trawetSluaP

I e-mailed yesterday, and they're still considering the same slated design and are considering whether to use a dust filter/mesh or make a removable filter. I was given an estimate of $70-80.


----------



## jassmith

Same, thinking about offering him a lot more if he'll just produce the 3 hole design for me with a removable perforated metal filter.


----------



## Paperchaser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> I e-mailed yesterday, and they're still considering the same slated design and are considering whether to use a dust filter/mesh or make a removable filter. I was given an estimate of $70-80.


Thats too expensive.

$50 ~ $60 is tops that I will pay.


----------



## trawetSluaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paperchaser*
> 
> Thats too expensive.
> 
> $50 ~ $60 is tops that I will pay.


Bare in mind that includes the top panel from Phanteks which costs them $30 odd.


----------



## glegz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassmith*
> 
> Same, thinking about offering him a lot more if he'll just produce the 3 hole design for me with a removable perforated metal filter.


I like the three square hole design too! Hopefully we get different options to choose from.


----------



## glegz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> Bare in mind that includes the top panel from Phanteks which costs them $30 odd.


I thought we had to or we could send our own.


----------



## paskowitz

I think an option without a dust filter (and just a square cut if that makes a difference) at a lower price would be nice. $80 is definitely too much. That's 45% of the price of the case. Also it's ~$30 from phanteks including shipping for one panel. The panel isn't $30.


----------



## velocityx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> Just to share. Decided not to wait get it done myself. Did some measurements and done up the drawing before sending the TOP panel to the metal workshop to get it cut.
> 
> Here is the end results.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/iT47HSj
> 
> 
> Had ordered perforated metal sheet will spray it black and place it under the panel holes.


Great job, apart from the simple cut a huge opening and leave it be this is the best design for a top vent.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paperchaser*
> 
> Thats too expensive.
> 
> $50 ~ $60 is tops that I will pay.


Considering it costs you maybe 25-30 in shipping for both ways combined. Even sending in the panel to be cut would cost you that.


----------



## kaiqi07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> Great job, apart from the simple cut a huge opening and leave it be this is the best design for a top vent.


Thanks, had used a black marker to colour the cut hex which shows the white raw alu. Now waiting for my perforated metal to arrive. Will post pics once all done.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> Great job, apart from the simple cut a huge opening and leave it be this is the best design for a top vent.


I think it the hex hole looks much better than full open vent hole.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I think it the hex hole looks much better than full open vent hole.


Agreed


----------



## kevindd992002

Here are the components for my next build:

Radiators: Black Ice Nemesis 280GTS® XFLOW Ultra Stealth Cross-Flow Low Profile Radiator - Black Carbon

Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS® Ultra Stealth U-Flow Low Profile Radiator - Black Carbon

Pump: EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM - Plexi (incl. pump) w/ carbon sleeving and black heatshrink

Reservoir: EK-RES X3 150 Lite Reservoir

Cpu: Waiting for the 7740K

CPU Block: Not decided yet

GPU: Waiting for the EVGA FTW3 1080Ti

GPU Block: Not decided yet

Fans: Be Quiet! SW3's (3x120mm and 2x140mm)

Tubing: PrimoFlex or Mayhems clear soft tubing

Coolant: Mayhems Pastel

1.) The 280mm rad goes to the front so the midplate needs to be cut for it to fit and since it is vertically mounted there is one port in the top and one port in the bottom.

2.) The 360mm rad goes up top. Which is a better orientation in my situation, ports on the left or ports on the right?

3.) I'm planning to connect the pump and reservoir with a male-to-male rotary fitting and mount it to the front rad by using mounting the reservoir to the rad and letting the pump just "hang".

My main question is do you have any suggestions on how to go about tube routing? I know it would be a hell lot easier if I switch the rad positions (280mm xflow rad up top and 360mm uflow rad in front) but sticking with the 360mm top orientation will yield a better looking setup.

NOTE:

1.) The only reason I'm sticking with a 280mm xflow is it is marginally better performing than its uflow counterpart and is way less restrictive.

2.) On the other hand, the 360mm uflow is marginally better performaing than its xflow counterpart, so there's that. Also for the reason that I'm comfortable in using one very restrictive rad (this 360mm rad) but I'm not sure if a D5's head pressure can handle using two (280mm uflow and 360mm uflow).

So I'm all ears regarding this setup. Nothing is final yet except for the fact that I will surely use a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX case.


----------



## Kostadinos

Hello owners of thisglorious case , here is my baby and now is under construction. In a few days I will have complete my custom water cooling and in about a month I will purchases the GTX 1080 , hope you like it

CPU : Intel Core I7-7700K 4.2Ghz , RAM : G.Skill TridentZ RGB 16GB DDR4-3200MHz , Mobo: MSI Z170A Mpower Gaming Titanium Edition , GPU: ; , OS: OCZ Trion 150 240GB , Storage: Western Digital HDD 1TB 3.5'' 64MB SATA3 , Case: Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Tempered Glass , Custom Watercooling from EK , Barrow & Formula Mod


----------



## glegz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kostadinos*
> 
> Hello owners of this glorious case , here is my baby and now is under construction. In a few days I will have complete my custom water cooling and in about a month I will purchases the GTX 1080 , hope you like it
> 
> CPU : Intel Core I7-7700K 4.2Ghz , RAM : G.Skill TridentZ RGB 16GB DDR4-3200MHz , Mobo: MSI Z170A Mpower Gaming Titanium Edition , GPU: ; , OS: OCZ Trion 150 240GB , Storage: Western Digital HDD 1TB 3.5'' 64MB SATA3 , Case: Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Tempered Glass , Custom Watercooling from EK , Barrow & Formula Mod


Nice cable management, I wish mine was as clan as yours:


http://imgur.com/doDBI


----------



## alanthecelt

so
more refining, i am contemplating a different top vent than what i am using, there seems to be some heat build up still (the aluminum can get quite warm)
im goign to try and copy the front panel profile, this time in satin black acrylic and have it slightly raised
i am going to replace the 2 140mm Phanteks front fans with the 120mm equivalent, to give the 360mm rad full coverage i compared specs, and at the 700 rpm i have decided is quiet to my ears, they seems similar noise wise, but should move more air
i am going to replace my PSU fan with a 120mm pwm noiseblocker and run that from one of the motherboard headers so i can quieten that down somewhat


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kostadinos*
> 
> Hello owners of thisglorious case , here is my baby and now is under construction. In a few days I will have complete my custom water cooling and in about a month I will purchases the GTX 1080 , hope you like it
> 
> CPU : Intel Core I7-7700K 4.2Ghz , RAM : G.Skill TridentZ RGB 16GB DDR4-3200MHz , Mobo: MSI Z170A Mpower Gaming Titanium Edition , GPU: ; , OS: OCZ Trion 150 240GB , Storage: Western Digital HDD 1TB 3.5'' 64MB SATA3 , Case: Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Tempered Glass , Custom Watercooling from EK , Barrow & Formula Mod


Nice choice on parts. 160mm power supply is perfect for this case with water cooling. The TR150 is a neat little budget drive. I installed a 480gb one in my sister's mid 2012 MacBook Pro and it benches the same as my Samsung 850 Evo 500gb.


----------



## kevindd992002

Does the Evolv ATX include the F140MP fans nowadays even though it says F140SP on their product page?


----------



## alanthecelt

i got the 140sp with mine which seems to be a dam good fan from the reviews, won't cool the best but is a great balance between cooling and noise (for radiators at least)


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanthecelt*
> 
> i got the 140sp with mine which seems to be a dam good fan from the reviews, won't cool the best but is a great balance between cooling and noise (for radiators at least)


When did you buy your case? I've heard that Phanteks upgraded the fans on the Evolv ATX from the SP to the MP but their website still doesn't reflect the change.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> When did you buy your case? I've heard that Phanteks upgraded the fans on the Evolv ATX from the SP to the MP but their website still doesn't reflect the change.


The replacement fan for PH-F140SP is not a PH-F140MP fan.

While they look like PH-F140MP they are not the same .. nor do they have same specifications. Best I can tell they are no-name / no-model number fans that have PH-F140SP outer housing and motor with a PH-F140MP impeller.

I have not been able to get any of these MP impeller case fans, but Phanteks told me
Quote:


> F140MP_BK (3Pin for case installation)1200RPM +/- 250 rpm.
> 1.31 mmH2O
> 24.2 dBA.


Which is rpm specificaton of PH-F140HP_ii and PH-F140MP at 1200rpm
and
Quote:


> CFM will be the same as MP


I think that means at PH-F140MP at 1200rpm performs the same as these new case fans .. which is about 66cfm
PH-F140MP are PWM controlled 500-1600rpm; 68.1cfm; 17-25.3dB(A); 1.62mm H2O
"No Name/No Model #" are variable voltage 1200rpm; xx.xcfm; 24.2dB(A); 1.31mm H2O

CoolingTechnique tested the PH-F140HP_II .. the same fan in round housing versus square housing on PH-F140MP
CoolingTechnique testing data is at 1222rpm there is 68.1cfm, and 1.71mm H2O
CoolingTechnique testing data is at 1416rpm there is 79.9cfm and 2.286mm H2O (1416rpm is below 1600rpm spec because load resistance lowers fan speed and all specs are +/-250rpm)
PH-F140MP specification data is at 1600rpm there is 68.1cfm and 1.61mmH2O .
Phanteks shows PH-F140MP and PH-F140HP_II having same performance, but CT test data is radically different from Phanteks data.

I tried PH-F140MP on CLC radiator and the worked quite well. I have not compared them on my Siltent Loop 280mm cooler but suspect they would work well.

I'm trying to get a couple of these newer 'no-name/no-model #' fans to test.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The replacement fan for PH-F140SP is not a PH-F140MP fan.
> 
> While they look like PH-F140MP they are not the same .. nor do they have same specifications. Best I can tell they are no-name / no-model number fans that have PH-F140SP outer housing and motor with a PH-F140MP impeller.
> 
> I have not been able to get any of these MP impeller case fans, but Phanteks told me
> Which is rpm specificaton of PH-F140HP_ii and PH-F140MP at 1200rpm
> and
> I think that means at PH-F140MP at 1200rpm performs the same as these new case fans .. which is about 66cfm
> PH-F140MP are PWM controlled 500-1600rpm; 68.1cfm; 17-25.3dB(A); 1.62mm H2O
> "No Name/No Model #" are variable voltage 1200rpm; xx.xcfm; 24.2dB(A); 1.31mm H2O
> 
> CoolingTechnique tested the PH-F140HP_II .. the same fan in round housing versus square housing on PH-F140MP
> CoolingTechnique testing data is at 1222rpm there is 68.1cfm, and 1.71mm H2O
> CoolingTechnique testing data is at 1416rpm there is 79.9cfm and 2.286mm H2O (1416rpm is below 1600rpm spec because load resistance lowers fan speed and all specs are +/-250rpm)
> PH-F140MP specification data is at 1600rpm there is 68.1cfm and 1.61mmH2O .
> Phanteks shows PH-F140MP and PH-F140HP_II having same performance, but CT test data is radically different from Phanteks data.
> 
> I tried PH-F140MP on CLC radiator and the worked quite well. I have not compared them on my Siltent Loop 280mm cooler but suspect they would work well.
> 
> I'm trying to get a couple of these newer 'no-name/no-model #' fans to test.


Ok, I see. Thanks.

@ciarlatano

FYI.


----------



## realtomatoes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlewbell*
> 
> As Ciarlatano mentioned, top 360 with front 280 sounds like a good idea. I don't have any water cooling experience, but just calculating based on radiator area leads me to believe the difference between a 360 & a 280 should only be about 10% or so.
> 360*120=43,200mm^2
> 280*140=39,200mm^2


i got an xe360 in front and an alphacool 280 on top.
i would recommend placing the 360 in front, get fresh air for your largest rad and the 280/240 on top.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *realtomatoes*
> 
> i got an xe360 in front and an alphacool 280 on top.
> i would recommend placing the 360 in front, get fresh air for your largest rad and the 280/240 on top.


But then the 360 top/280 front is better looking.


----------



## kaiqi07

Just collected my newly powder coated and cut ventilation holes of my evolv atx front panel. Had sent the whole case's alu panel to be powder coated



http://imgur.com/YBZ9TU4


----------



## kaiqi07

Took the panel outs and inspect. Very good powder coats done by the powder coating company. Block off the screw holes to prevent the coats go into the thread holes.

Will head home to fix it back to the frame.



http://imgur.com/qkAfkqP


----------



## Mhazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> Took the panel outs and inspect. Very good powder coats done by the powder coating company. Block off the screw holes to prevent the coats go into the thread holes.
> 
> Will head home to fix it back to the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/qkAfkqP


THAT looks AWESOME... This design suit nearly perfectly that case ! Really good job.

White is not my favourite color for a case (because of my dirty gardener hands







) , but I can't wait to see it mounted.

Well done, sir !

PS : I hope it will help for temps and airflow, I think that was the basic purpose


----------



## kaiqi07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mhazz*
> 
> THAT looks AWESOME... This design suit nearly perfectly that case ! Really good job.
> 
> White is not my favourite color for a case (because of my dirty gardener hands
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) , but I can't wait to see it mounted.
> 
> Well done, sir !
> 
> PS : I hope it will help for temps and airflow, I think that was the basic purpose


Thanks for the compliments. Was actually gonna wait for the Mass Order for the modded panels. But i don't wish to have the same panel as other so had to think of other designs myself. Saw the angled tempered glass and edges of the panels gave me the idea that hex is the way to go.

For my past few builds, white has always been my case Color. When I was choosing Color for the powder coating, I had a urge to go deep red haha. But chose white as the base Color. So right now I will decide what Color should I paint for the Fan grilles.


----------



## aberrero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> Thanks for the compliments. Was actually gonna wait for the Mass Order for the modded panels. But i don't wish to have the same panel as other so had to think of other designs myself. Saw the angled tempered glass and edges of the panels gave me the idea that hex is the way to go.
> 
> For my past few builds, white has always been my case Color. When I was choosing Color for the powder coating, I had a urge to go deep red haha. But chose white as the base Color. So right now I will decide what Color should I paint for the Fan grilles.


Are you painting the rest of the case as well?


----------



## kaiqi07

nope. dont really like full white rigs. I love the contrast of black and whites. Thats what i did with my previous build.

*Project Rampage: Corsair Obsidian 800D*


http://imgur.com/91FDYQ1



*Project Rampage II: Caselabs STH10*


http://imgur.com/k5j5na3



*for the caselabs build i never took a completed full tower photo


----------



## v4npro

I'm building my new PC and going to fix the top panel ventilation with water jet cut from a shop if they can do it, going to bring the piece to them tomorrow. The design I'm thinking on is something like this(not sure if it's already been shown or not)


It's a bad sketch but I want the same style like the side vents with 2 bigger ones in the middle and smaller ones on the side of them. Hopefully it won't cost much.

Also, still going to tape off the open areas of the radiator tray.


----------



## kaiqi07

Fixed back all the panels back into the frame. Now left with my perforated sheets.



http://imgur.com/12wdno5




http://imgur.com/CXEnvhN


----------



## trawetSluaP

That looks so good. How much the the honeycomb cutting cost if you don't mind me asking?


----------



## kaiqi07

cost me around $220 SGD converts to around $170 USD? powder coating cost me another $160 around $120 USD


----------



## milkguru

Would anyone be able to tell me whether it's possible to fit 3.5" HDDs on the back of the case (where the SSDs normally go)?

I know 3.5" wont fit in the SSD bracket - so I'd be using these http://www.phanteks.com/PH-HDDKT.html but want to know if there is enough space between the glass panel


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *milkguru*
> 
> Would anyone be able to tell me whether it's possible to fit 3.5" HDDs on the back of the case (where the SSDs normally go)?
> 
> I know 3.5" wont fit in the SSD bracket - so I'd be using these http://www.phanteks.com/PH-HDDKT.html but want to know if there is enough space between the glass panel


That is a negatory. Only place is in the PSU changer with the sold separately bracket.


----------



## EightCores

I am building a water cooling loop in a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX case using an Asus Crosshair vi Hero *MB* and MSI 1080 Sea Hawk EK X *GPU* (EKWB water cooled). I already have the following parts:
EK-PE 360 Radiator (Top); Alphacool 120 Push/Pull (Front, bottom - removed HD slots); EK-XRES 140 pump combo; and Fans (120mm and 140mm). Plus an EKWB C6H Monoblock (coming soon).
I would like to ask your advice on the sequence for the water flow, and why one would be better than the other. Some of the possibilities I am considering are:
1) Pump - 360 rad - Monoblock (CPU) - GPU - 120 rad - Pump
2) Pump - GPU - 360 rad - Monoblock (CPU) - 120 rad - Pump
3) Pump - Monoblock (CPU) - 360 rad - GPU - 120 rad - Pump
4) Pump - 120 rad - GPU - 360 rad - Monoblock (CPU) - Pump
I am leaning toward #2 with the 360 rad having the connection ports at the back of the case (I hope to keep a 140mm exhaust fan if possible - the EK 360 is 38mm + 25 mm for the Fractal Design Venturi HP 120mm Fans; All my fans in this build are Fractal Design Venturi HP PWM ). I will be using flexible tubing.
I am not sure what my goal in sequencing the flow is. I don't know if it is more important to concentrate on the CPU + MOSFET or the GPU. I have not considered using a parallel sequence, but would if it is a better method.


----------



## jassmith

The sequence has absolutely no relevance to the performance of the loop. None. The only thing that matters in sequencing is that the reservoir flow directly into the pump to avoid dry running the pump. In your case this isn't an issue since you have a pump/res combo unit.

Everything else is aesthetics. Run the lines however you think looks best.


----------



## milkguru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *milkguru*
> 
> Would anyone be able to tell me whether it's possible to fit 3.5" HDDs on the back of the case (where the SSDs normally go)?
> 
> I know 3.5" wont fit in the SSD bracket - so I'd be using these http://www.phanteks.com/PH-HDDKT.html but want to know if there is enough space between the glass panel
> 
> 
> 
> That is a negatory. Only place is in the PSU changer with the sold separately bracket.
Click to expand...

Is that because of the thickness of the 3.5" drives not fitting with the glass panel on? Or for some other reason?


----------



## jassmith

Exactly, the glass panel will interfere with the 3.5" drives if hung off the back.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *milkguru*
> 
> Is that because of the thickness of the 3.5" drives not fitting with the glass panel on? Or for some other reason?


Yes


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassmith*
> 
> Exactly, the glass panel will interfere with the 3.5" drives if hung off the back.


I'm assuming the distance between motherboard tray & side panel of TG and metal side Evolv ATX is the same .. same case chassis so same measurements. Motherboard tray is actually a motherboard tray stepped into tray behind HDDs .. meaning the space behicnd HDD part of tray is deeper than motherboard section of tray. In metal side case there is 19.3mm between motherboard tray area and case side; and 30.8mm between HDD area of tray and side. I think 3.5" HDD are about 25mm thick so it's possible to place a couple in that area. Might need to allow for some air movement around them to keep their temps normal.


----------



## paskowitz

This is not from MMM, but this is what my chevron deign looks like in actuality...





Turned out well IMO.


----------



## READTHESCROLL

Very nice!


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> This is not from MMM, but this is what my chevron deign looks like in actuality...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out well IMO.


Yah that looks slick. When the heck can we start ordering!!!


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Yah that looks slick. When the heck can we start ordering!!!


I don't want to get ahead of the guy who did it for me but when/if he decides to offer it as a service but I would assume in the not to distant future.


----------



## m22tran

Hi Overclockers,

If I place a magicool G2 240 27mm slim radiator or a EK SE 25mm radiator in the side (retaining the basement panel) will I still have room to use the stock pump mounting plate against the wall?

After mounting it and measuring, it looks like I might have clearance (27mm), but would appreciate if someone can confirm or has a build that is already using it.

Currently I have a enthoo evolv atx galaxy silver tempered glass. Parts that I am going to combine/replace is a magicool 360 g2 27mm slim radiator top, bitspower 150 reservoir, d5 mod top, and bottom (other than res).

Parts already installed (only noting aesthetics) is a:
swiftech 240 h220-x (not x2) on the top (will be replaced)
msi z170 mpower titanium
4x corsair dominator
55mm 240 xspc radiator on the side (will be replaced)
heatkiller iv pro acetal (didnt want to go all nickel in case im moving to another build)
6x corsair sp120s with white rings ( maybe paint the 1 ring inside the case silver, the exhaust fan)
refrence 980 ti with EK csq block and black backplate
cablemod silver, white, black full kit
Barrow adapter (chrome)
ek 3/8 x 5/8 soft tube (all chrome and will be replaced)
2x 2 meter rgb phanteks strip

Both the swiftech and xspc radiator is painted silver using rustoleum titanium silver primer + paint. Build looks nice, but would look/feel alot better if I did a better job of prepping (first time painting and should have listened to the pros about prep work).

One more question, knowing what I know now about painting now..... Upon receiving confirmation of the radiator and mount placement, should the radiators and backplate and 1x sp120 ring be painted silver also?(backplate will more than likely be plasti dip or vinyl wrapped silver) Or should I leave it be to match the black bitspower, res, pump, pump mod config.

***Forgot to mention that I did the mod to place the fan inside the top cavity so only the radiator would be showing***


----------



## m22tran

I checked a few builds including singularity computers radium 2 but those build have the reservoir/pump config attached to the radiator.


----------



## m22tran

Shucks, I am dumb. there was another mounting hole further left, closer to the GPU, and covering some of the rubber grommets close to the mobo. With that being said, should I still paint my radiators silver or leave it be to match the bitspower config


----------



## READTHESCROLL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m22tran*
> 
> Shucks, I am dumb. there was another mounting hole further left, closer to the GPU, and covering some of the rubber grommets close to the mobo. With that being said, should I still paint my radiators silver or leave it be to match the bitspower config


I wouldnt paint the fins on the radiator. If you do, just do a light spray. Spray the outside as much as you want. The less paint on the fins, the better the cooling will be. Spraying the fins with primer and a full coat of paint is not something I would do personally.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm assuming the distance between motherboard tray & side panel of TG and metal side Evolv ATX is the same .. same case chassis so same measurements. Motherboard tray is actually a motherboard tray stepped into tray behind HDDs .. meaning the space behicnd HDD part of tray is deeper than motherboard section of tray. In metal side case there is 19.3mm between motherboard tray area and case side; and 30.8mm between HDD area of tray and side. I think 3.5" HDD are about 25mm thick so it's possible to place a couple in that area. Might need to allow for some air movement around them to keep their temps normal.


Anybody can confirm this?


----------



## alanthecelt

nice updates, love the white powdercoated with hex holes and the example on this page
managed to quieten my PSU fan by putting in a PWM noiseblocker controlled via motherboard, running it at 600 rpm (min) seems to keep cool air coming out of the PSU all the time
i am updating my top vent, more air space, i have also moved the front panel out slightly, will be pulling the loop apart and checking the liquid metal in my delid and the thermal compound on the water block

Currently i have a thick 360 front, with 3x 120 pushing in, top 280 with 2x 140 pushing out and rear 140 blowing in, reason being i figured providing the top rad with cool air would be good
trying to keep everything as quiet as possible my rad fans run at 700 rpm, but i have got them ramping up based on cpu temps, as that's really the only way of automating them logically, several people have said try running the top fans in suck, to draw in cool air, i could then flip the rear to an exhaust. im sure this thread says the opposite, any thoughts on this? if the temperature inside the case was ambient, due to higher speed front fans, this would be silly, but it's not.. ive seen about +10 degrees inside according ot motherboard sensors. so i can kind of see some logic to drawing cool air in instead.
any thoughts?


----------



## m22tran

Only problem I have is I wish the corsair sp120's I have could reach the pwm "board" in the back. I have to use darkside 3x1 fan splitter and a few zip ties. Other than that, build is almost done. Need to fill the loop with a squeeze bottle and 100% distilled water.

I tested each component briefly with my soft compression fittings for 15 min by swishing it around in distilled water.

Any thoughts on what else I need to add to it? Family gave me some 1 year old primochill clear fluid that I am thinking about using once I am done testing with the diluted water.


----------



## gapsna

I just finished my first build!
was a bit tricky but I'm pretty happy with the result. So far no case mods yet, but maybe some day.

Mobo: Asus Maximus VIII Hero Alpha
Processor: Intel Core i7 6700K
GPU: MSI GTX 1070 Sea Hawk EK X
RAM: G.Skill 32(4x8)GB DDR4 2133MHz
PSU: Corsair RM650x 80+ Gold
Case: Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Tempered Glass

Loop:
pump/res combo: EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
CPU block: EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel
Rad: EK-CoolStream PE 360
RadFans: 120x120x25mm be quiet! Silent Wings 3 PWM High-Speed 2200 U/min 28.6 dB(A)
Tubing: EK-HD PETG Tube 10/12mm
coolant: EK-CryoFuel Blood Red Premix


----------



## springs113

Looks gd


----------



## kevindd992002

Can you mount an EK pump + pump top combo in the bottom chamber of the Evolv ATX when a 280mm front rad is present?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Can you mount an EK pump + pump top combo in the bottom chamber of the Evolv ATX when a 280mm front rad is present?


Some cutting required.


----------



## glegz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I don't want to get ahead of the guy who did it for me but when/if he decides to offer it as a service but I would assume in the not to distant future.


Let us know please! Where are you located btw?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Some cutting required.


As a side note, the pump+pump top would not fit vertically but would fit horizontally if your power supply is 160mm. A 200mm power supply would not allow such a configuration. PM me if you want more nitty gritty details.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Some cutting required.


Thanks, but I was actually referring to a pump + pump top (EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM) only. The pics you've posted show a res/pump/pump top combo. And I see that you're using a thick rad and in push/pull config. I'll be using a GTS 280mm rad in front with just push fans.

Now onto another question that I hope you can help me with. Can the EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM fit in that bottom chamber if I mount it like in the pic below to the 280mm front rad using the EK-UNI Pump Bracket (140mm FAN) Vertical ?



When I say "fit in that bottom chamber", I mean in a way that it doesn't hit the midplate.


----------



## alanthecelt

the bracket in question puts the pump on the midpoint of the fan/radiator 140mm mounting
i think it would be much lower if you fitted it to the supplied evolv bracket, lying down in the lower chamber. if you look at my d5 mounting here:



you can see the pump mounted on the lower 3rd of the 360, the radiator is mounted maybe an inch higher up than it should be mind, and is a 60mm radiator


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanthecelt*
> 
> the bracket in question puts the pump on the midpoint of the fan/radiator 140mm mounting
> i think it would be much lower if you fitted it to the supplied evolv bracket, lying down in the lower chamber. if you look at my d5 mounting here:
> 
> 
> 
> you can see the pump mounted on the lower 3rd of the 360, the radiator is mounted maybe an inch higher up than it should be mind, and is a 60mm radiator


Are you using the EK bracket in that pic?

Also, I thought you won't be able to use the included bracket in the Evolv ATX case when you have a rad installed in front (even if it's just 30mm)?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Thanks, but I was actually referring to a pump + pump top (EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM) only. The pics you've posted show a res/pump/pump top combo. And I see that you're using a thick rad and in push/pull config. I'll be using a GTS 280mm rad in front with just push fans.
> 
> Now onto another question that I hope you can help me with. Can the EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM fit in that bottom chamber if I mount it like in the pic below to the 280mm front rad using the EK-UNI Pump Bracket (140mm FAN) Vertical ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I say "fit in that bottom chamber", I mean in a way that it doesn't hit the midplate.


I know I have a res, but I can tell you that a pump + pump top (no res) would not fit when mounted vertically without cutting like I did.

I don't know if it would fit when mounted directly to the radiator.

Side note: a GTS 280 rad is too wide. You need to cut here like I did.


----------



## v4npro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v4npro*
> 
> I'm building my new PC and going to fix the top panel ventilation with water jet cut from a shop if they can do it, going to bring the piece to them tomorrow. The design I'm thinking on is something like this(not sure if it's already been shown or not)
> 
> 
> It's a bad sketch but I want the same style like the side vents with 2 bigger ones in the middle and smaller ones on the side of them. Hopefully it won't cost much.
> 
> Also, still going to tape off the open areas of the radiator tray.


Still need to get mesh.



Since I didn't have the file for the water jet cutter it was $80 otherwise would of been $30. If you live around Baltimore Maryland, I went to "The Foundry" at City Garage south Baltimore.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I know I have a res, but I can tell you that a pump + pump top (no res) would not fit when mounted vertically without cutting like I did.
> 
> I don't know if it would fit when mounted directly to the radiator.
> 
> Side note: a GTS 280 rad is too wide. You need to cut here like I did.


I think it will based on this system: https://d1rktuf34l9h2g.cloudfront.net/4/4d/900x900px-LL-4d991f79_IMG_2549.jpeg (@nycgtr's)

Yes, I'm aware about the necessary cutting for the GTS 280 rad.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v4npro*
> 
> Still need to get mesh.
> 
> 
> 
> Since I didn't have the file for the water jet cutter it was $80 otherwise would of been $30. If you live around Baltimore Maryland, I went to "The Foundry" at City Garage south Baltimore.


That is very reasonable. Nice result as well. You could easily get somebody on Fivrr to do a quick cad file for like $15.


----------



## kaiqi07

Just installed perforated steel plate to act as fan grills for the modded panels.

Front:


http://imgur.com/cfg6KZK


Top:


http://imgur.com/PYOasl7


----------



## alanthecelt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Are you using the EK bracket in that pic?
> 
> Also, I thought you won't be able to use the included bracket in the Evolv ATX case when you have a rad installed in front (even if it's just 30mm)?


yup, thats the ek bracket, although i flipped it 180 degrees and added spacers so i could bring it a few mm closer to the radiator
im not sure how much room you'd have for the intended pump location in the bottom of the case, although drilling 4 more holes to offset it would be very easy


----------



## alanthecelt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> Just installed perforated steel plate to act as fan grills for the modded panels.
> 
> Front:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/cfg6KZK
> 
> 
> Top:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/PYOasl7


i like this... you are getting me tempted to to paint and hydrodip my top and front :S


----------



## ModMyMods

Hi everyone! We just wanted to give everyone who contacted us an update on the top cover mod. We are making progress! You will be hearing from us soon! Hope you all like what you see so far.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModMyMods*
> 
> Hi everyone! We just wanted to give everyone who contacted us an update on the top cover mod. We are making progress! You will be hearing from us soon! Hope you all like what you see so far.


Looking good


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModMyMods*
> 
> Hi everyone! We just wanted to give everyone who contacted us an update on the top cover mod. We are making progress! You will be hearing from us soon! Hope you all like what you see so far.


YES!!

I can't wait. So will you all be installing metal mesh as well? Or is that up to the customer to handle?


----------



## kevindd992002

Are those holes enough to remove any top airflow restriction?


----------



## ModMyMods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> YES!!
> 
> I can't wait. So will you all be installing metal mesh as well? Or is that up to the customer to handle?


We are looking into installing the mesh. Once we get the test cover back that is the first thing we are going to do.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Are those holes enough to remove any top airflow restriction?


We would think so. We planning on getting some tests done to see what temps we get before and after.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModMyMods*
> 
> Hi everyone! We just wanted to give everyone who contacted us an update on the top cover mod. We are making progress! You will be hearing from us soon! Hope you all like what you see so far.


Looks great hopefully you will be able to ship to Australia? Also will you be fitting any mesh under the cutout? Any chance of offering different cutout options ie: perhaps the hexagon cutout top panel seen earlier in this thread?


----------



## Windeh

Had to fit an 180mm 1000W PSU with cables for SLI setup, D5 pump, Aquaero, Farbwerk and drain port in the lower compartment, sharing space with front mounted radiator;

Making sure the D5 pump is properly isolated


Aquaero 6 with drain port stowed


Farbwerk


Cabling with temp probe and flow sensor, reservoir level sensors


Blacked out side panel


----------



## kaiqi07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Windeh*
> 
> Had to fit an 180mm 1000W PSU with cables for SLI setup, D5 pump, Aquaero, Farbwerk and drain port in the lower compartment, sharing space with front mounted radiator;
> 
> Making sure the D5 pump is properly isolated
> 
> 
> Aquaero 6 with drain port stowed
> 
> 
> Farbwerk
> 
> 
> Cabling with temp probe and flow sensor, reservoir level sensors
> 
> 
> Blacked out side panel


The cables...... omg, spare no effort in managing them


----------



## Windeh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> The cables...... omg, spare no effort in managing them


You don't like my zip ties?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Windeh*
> 
> You don't like my zip ties?


How did you black out the back side panel?


----------



## paskowitz

I've got Demciflex and some hexagon car grille mesh on the way. I'll have excess of the car mesh so if anyone wants to pay for shipping from NY I'd be happy to send you my extra.


----------



## Windeh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> How did you black out the back side panel?


5% light transmission window tint.


----------



## Kostadinos

Just finished my loop . This is not the final product i am waiting 1070 and his block to do the final steps to my loop


----------



## strokin3

Hey Guys,

I need some advice. I have a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass Case

I have:

ASUS ROG MAXIMUS IX FORMULA MOTHERBOARD
CORSAIR VENGEANCE LED RAM (2 STICKS)
CORSAIR H115i AIO COOLER (Mounted on top)
GTX 1080

I want to take out the H115i and start using a EK kit. It's going to be my first step towards liquid cooling. I was thiking about getting the EK PE360 Kit. It has everything I want. My question is... Will it fit?

- I see alot of people opting for the shorter D5 pump/res. combo. Is it okay for me to use the 140 D5?

- Will the 360 RADIATOR fit ? I'm currently using a H115 (280MM) and its supposed to support up to 360 on top but right now the fans are barely touching the ram sticks already. Will the radiator + fans in this actually HIT my ramsticks?

Please help me out guys! Thanks!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> I need some advice. I have a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass Case
> 
> I have:
> 
> ASUS ROG MAXIMUS IX FORMULA MOTHERBOARD
> CORSAIR VENGEANCE LED RAM (2 STICKS)
> CORSAIR H115i AIO COOLER (Mounted on top)
> GTX 1080
> 
> I want to take out the H115i and start using a EK kit. It's going to be my first step towards liquid cooling. I was thiking about getting the EK PE360 Kit. It has everything I want. My question is... Will it fit?
> 
> - I see alot of people opting for the shorter D5 pump/res. combo. Is it okay for me to use the 140 D5?
> 
> - Will the 360 RADIATOR fit ? I'm currently using a H115 (280MM) and its supposed to support up to 360 on top but right now the fans are barely touching the ram sticks already. Will the radiator + fans in this actually HIT my ramsticks?
> 
> Please help me out guys! Thanks!


It will fit with no problem, both rad and res. Since the rad is 120mm wide rather than 140mm, it will come nowhere near your RAM.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It will fit with no problem, both rad and res. Since the rad is 120mm wide rather than 140mm, it will come nowhere near your RAM.


I think he's asking if it will fit length-wise since its a 360mm radiator with pump.


----------



## strokin3

Okay so everything will fit fine? I was thinking of only doing a PE360 on top. And regular vardar fans or something in the front. I am not cooling my GPU yet because I'm considering between 1080 ti or titan xp right now.

Do you guys have any other suggestions for this case? Anyone know where I can buy a modded top for better ventilation? etc. Thanks


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> Okay so everything will fit fine? I was thinking of only doing a PE360 on top. And regular vardar fans or something in the front. I am not cooling my GPU yet because I'm considering between 1080 ti or titan xp right now.
> 
> Do you guys have any other suggestions for this case? Anyone know where I can buy a modded top for better ventilation? etc. Thanks


Modded tops are being organised as per earlier in this thread, if you are using a 7700K I strongly advise deliding the CPU even with a 360mm radiator expect minumum 20 degrees C drop in temps. I have a similar set up to what you are proposing as you can see from picture below PE-360 fits fine with D5 Res/pump combo and there will be sufficient clearance for your memory which is 11mm lower in height than mine


----------



## I-Siamak-I

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Modded tops are being organised as per earlier in this thread, if you are using a 7700K I strongly advise deliding the CPU even with a 360mm radiator expect minumum 20 degrees C drop in temps. I have a similar set up to what you are proposing as you can see from picture below PE-360 fits fine with D5 Res/pump combo and there will be sufficient clearance for your memory which is 11mm lower in height than mine


Can you please kindly confirm whats model of the Rad in front and the Rad on top please?


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I-Siamak-I*
> 
> Can you please kindly confirm whats model of the Rad in front and the Rad on top please?


Top rad EK PE-360 front rad EK PE-240 as per my signature below


----------



## I-Siamak-I

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Top rad EK PE-360 front rad EK PE-240 as per my signature below


Thank you so much, much appreciate it. With your setup what kind of temps are u getting on GPU and CPU while pushing them? Also did u mod the top panel?


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I-Siamak-I*
> 
> Thank you so much, much appreciate it. With your setup what kind of temps are u getting on GPU and CPU while pushing them? Also did u mod the top panel?


Maximum core temp running OCCT for an hour 27 degrees C ambient was 80 degrees C no mod to top panel...yet


----------



## I-Siamak-I

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Maximum core temp running OCCT for an hour 27 degrees C ambient was 80 degrees C no mod to top panel...yet


How about the graphic card when gaming?


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I-Siamak-I*
> 
> How about the graphic card when gaming?


Whilst playing BF1 @ max settings 1440p cards don't exceed 52 degrees C same ambient


----------



## strokin3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Modded tops are being organised as per earlier in this thread, if you are using a 7700K I strongly advise deliding the CPU even with a 360mm radiator expect minumum 20 degrees C drop in temps. I have a similar set up to what you are proposing as you can see from picture below PE-360 fits fine with D5 Res/pump combo and there will be sufficient clearance for your memory which is 11mm lower in height than mine


First off, your build looks AMAZING. I'm basically going for a setup like yours but blue/black theme instead of red. Also thanks for the advice on delidding. I'll definitely be doing that.

I see that to get the 240 to fit you had to take away one of the hard drive slots. Does that still leave room for the second hard drive slot below it? I would like to have at least one HDD.

Can someone point me to the page where people are discussing modded tops for sale? I would really like one.

Thanks for all the advice! Much appreciated.

-EDIT-

Also has anyone had any experience running 3x 4k monitors on one 1080 TI Card? Only using ONE monitor for 4k gaming ONLY WHEN IM GAMING.

But what about if i'm multi-tasking and watching a video on one screen and have microsoft word / outlook / work related software on another screen... and maybe some browser tabs open on the thrid screen... will it be okay? I already have the 4k screens so i don't want to downgrade just so that I can multi task when i'm not doing anything intensive.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> First off, your build looks AMAZING. I'm basically going for a setup like yours but blue/black theme instead of red. Also thanks for the advice on delidding. I'll definitely be doing that.
> 
> I see that to get the 240 to fit you had to take away one of the hard drive slots. Does that still leave room for the second hard drive slot below it? I would like to have at least one HDD.
> 
> Can someone point me to the page where people are discussing modded tops for sale? I would really like one.
> 
> Thanks for all the advice! Much appreciated.


If you look a few pages back in this thread there is a few posts from a pc modifying company based in the states post 940. Fitting a EK PE-240 does leave room for 1 HDD though mine is set up with 6 SSD's in total.


----------



## springs113

I fitted mine and had both hard drive spaces to use. You don't need to remove the cover plate that is there to put a 240mm rad in place.


----------



## strokin3

where do you guys recommend ordering the EKWB kits from?


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> where do you guys recommend ordering the EKWB kits from?


depends on your location.


----------



## strokin3

USA. I prefer not to use Microcenter.

Do people order from the EKWB website?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I order most of my EK stuff from Performance PCs FWIW

I have ordered from the EK site, PPCs is just handier when I need other stuff.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> where do you guys recommend ordering the EKWB kits from?


I order from Performance PCs almost exclusively, also.


----------



## strokin3

I would order from them but they don't seem to have the full kits... all the parts are seperate. What size tubing do you guys use btw?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> I would order from them but they don't seem to have the full kits... all the parts are seperate. What size tubing do you guys use btw?


3/8 x 5/8. The fitting and tubing size in the EK kits is their one bad feature.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> 3/8 x 5/8. The fitting and tubing size in the EK kits is their one bad feature.


If using a maximus ix formula as mentioned use only 1/2" od 3/8" id fittings as larger will not fit the vrm water block that is supplied with that board. You could use a smaller diameter spacer for larger fittings but believe me when I say bending the tube for the vrm water block is very tight (if using hardline tube) , larger o/d tube it will be even harder.


----------



## alanthecelt

so.. i spent a few hours in ghost recon wildlands last night, with the top fans sucking in, and rear fan exhausting
7600k, 1.35-1.4v 5ghz, 1080ti @2038
after i quit the game i looked at logs
cpu hung around at around 59 degrees average
i left it for a minute and the temp registered on the desktop was around 36 degrees, i guess im in a 20 degree room at that point, i should have noted the idle temp on the gpu at start up really to get an idea on temp rise

fans sit at 650 ish rpm (2x140 and 3x120) which is how i would define quiet, between 45deg cpu and 65 they ramp up to around 900 ish which is certainly still quiet enough. Pc is only a foot away from my right ear, and if im sat back on my bed gaming via controller it would be entirely inaudible.
i have since upped the fans slightly between 45-65 as i would like to be certain to maintain a max 10 degree rise

pretty confident that having the top as an inlet is ok as i am running a full cover block over my vrms, i should have logged system temperature too
I will do this next session


----------



## strokin3

@ciarlatano : Isn't the 3/8 the one that comes with the kit?
@scracy : I see. Do you recommend a specific set of fittings / tubing?

Thanks everyone!


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> @ciarlatano : Isn't the 3/8 the one that comes with the kit?
> @scracy : I see. Do you recommend a specific set of fittings / tubing?
> 
> Thanks everyone!


I used 12mm EK hardline fittings on mine with no leaks so far after about 8 months. That being said most experienced water cooling enthusiasts agree the bits power fittings are the way to go in terms of reliability and in terms of range. Pretty sure your kit comes with 12mm od 10mm id tubing and compression fittings to suit.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> @ciarlatano : Isn't the 3/8 the one that comes with the kit?
> @scracy : I see. Do you recommend a specific set of fittings / tubing?
> 
> Thanks everyone!


It comes with 3/8 x *1/2*" tubing, which is very thin walled. You can't make bends as tight as you can with 3/8 x 5/8 because the walls collapse easily.

And I agree with @scracy on Bitspower fittings, very good stuff. I use Monsoon, myself, but they are a bit different and many don't like them. XSPC also happens to make nice quality fittings. I'm not a fan of EK compression fittings for a couple of reasons, but I wouldn't call them "bad".


----------



## strokin3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It comes with 3/8 x *1/2*" tubing, which is very thin walled. You can't make bends as tight as you can with 3/8 x 5/8 because the walls collapse easily.
> 
> And I agree with @scracy on Bitspower fittings, very good stuff. I use Monsoon, myself, but they are a bit different and many don't like them. XSPC also happens to make nice quality fittings. I'm not a fan of EK compression fittings for a couple of reasons, but I wouldn't call them "bad".


I see... so what exact tubing / fittings would you guys recommend? I don't mind spending a bit more for better quality. Also I want to soft-tube because I'm a beginner at loops.

If you guys could post some links that would be much appreciated!


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> I see... so what exact tubing / fittings would you guys recommend? I don't mind spending a bit more for better quality. Also I want to soft-tube because I'm a beginner at loops.
> 
> If you guys could post some links that would be much appreciated!


For soft tubing, EK is the best bet. Honestly, it doesn't really matter that much. I could easily cherry pick a negative or positive story about any brand. I guess the only definitive suggestion I can make is avoid Thermaltake.

I should note, the story is a bit different for hard tubing. In that case, Bittspower and Primochill would be more advisable vs EK.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> For soft tubing, EK is the best bet. Honestly, it doesn't really matter that much. I could easily cherry pick a negative or positive story about any brand. I guess the only definitive suggestion I can make is avoid Thermaltake.
> 
> I should note, the story is a bit different for hard tubing. In that case, Bittspower and Primochill would be more advisable vs EK.


primochill is pretty good. Just don't buy xspc clear tubing that is horrific. Ek clear tubing is made by primochill afaik.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> For soft tubing, EK is the best bet. Honestly, it doesn't really matter that much. I could easily cherry pick a negative or positive story about any brand. I guess the only definitive suggestion I can make is avoid Thermaltake.
> 
> I should note, the story is a bit different for hard tubing. In that case, Bittspower and Primochill would be more advisable vs EK.


I used EK PETG hardline for my build, is there an issue with that tubing that I should know about?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> I see... so what exact tubing / fittings would you guys recommend? I don't mind spending a bit more for better quality. Also I want to soft-tube because I'm a beginner at loops.
> 
> If you guys could post some links that would be much appreciated!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> For soft tubing, EK is the best bet. Honestly, it doesn't really matter that much. I could easily cherry pick a negative or positive story about any brand. I guess the only definitive suggestion I can make is avoid Thermaltake.
> 
> I should note, the story is a bit different for hard tubing. In that case, Bittspower and Primochill would be more advisable vs EK.


I actually started using the Tygon (http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=33112&catid=864) instead of the EK.....simply because it is the proper size to work with fittings that aren't EK's. ZMT runs a hair too large on the OD.

In clear/colored tubing, I prefer PPC's Dreamflex to the Primochill, only because it is able to make tighter bends without collapsing. But, both are top notch and never had plasticizer issues with either.

And......yeah.....one should just avoid Thermaltake liquid cooling parts in general.


----------



## strokin3

Alright so I'm going to keep it simple.. Do these look fine ? And will it be fine for the IX Maximus Formula?

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-duraclear-9-5-15-9mm

Looking over the bitspower fittings now. There are so many choices not sure which to get haha


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> Alright so I'm going to keep it simple.. Do these look fine ? And will it be fine for the IX Maximus Formula?
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-duraclear-9-5-15-9mm
> 
> Looking over the bitspower fittings now. There are so many choices not sure which to get haha


Short answer no. Tubing O/D is too large for the VRM water block on the formula you need to use 1/2" O/D.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> Alright so I'm going to keep it simple.. Do these look fine ? And will it be fine for the IX Maximus Formula?
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-duraclear-9-5-15-9mm
> 
> Looking over the bitspower fittings now. There are so many choices not sure which to get haha


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> I used EK PETG hardline for my build, is there an issue with that tubing that I should know about?


In my mind, but clearly not my post... I was referring to fittings, not specifically tubing. For tubing I would go with Primochill Advanced LRT simply because it comes with a system flush and a biocide/corrosion inhibitor. That was all you have to do is buy distilled water. I would agree with ciariatano that it is a bit stiff but outside of an ITX case, I wouldn't worry about that.

I would also avoid color coolant or dyes and just go with colored tubing.

You may want to use 90 degree fittings on your VRM threads. I have a M7F and did this to avoid the clearance issue.


*Top port has a 90 as well.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> I used EK PETG hardline for my build, is there an issue with that tubing that I should know about?


I've used it on a couple of builds, one that's two years old now. No problems here, but I don't run any dye or anything.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I actually started using the Tygon (http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=33112&catid=864) instead of the EK.....simply because it is the proper size to work with fittings that aren't EK's. ZMT runs a hair too large on the OD.
> 
> In clear/colored tubing, I prefer PPC's Dreamflex to the Primochill, only because it is able to make tighter bends without collapsing. But, both are top notch and never had plasticizer issues with either.
> 
> And......yeah.....one should just avoid Thermaltake liquid cooling parts in general.


Another good one (and cheaper) is the Maybems Ultra Clear tubing. It seems to be more clear than the Primochill Advance LRT.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Short answer no. Tubing O/D is too large for the VRM water block on the formula you need to use 1/2" O/D.


Why? All that matters is the fitting threads are 1/4.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Why? All that matters is the fitting threads are 1/4.


Because the face of the VRM block on the formula board is slightly recessed, 16mm or 5/8" fittings are too large in outside diameter and wont seat properly as they hit the side of the water block. You could use a right angle fitting to get around this as pointed out or as I stated earlier use a smaller diameter spacer to space out the larger fitting.


----------



## strokin3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Because the face of the VRM block on the formula board is slightly recessed, 16mm or 5/8" fittings are too large in outside diameter and wont seat properly as they hit the side of the water block. You could use a right angle fitting to get around this as pointed out or as I stated earlier use a smaller diameter spacer to space out the larger fitting.


Oh... so just stick with the tubing / fitting in the EK kit?


----------



## paskowitz

IMO, this is a great option for a top filter. Hexagon .25 inch holes mesh. Black gloss paint also picks up lighting pretty well.

I have some extra mesh. If anyone wants some, send me a pm.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> Oh... so just stick with the tubing / fitting in the EK kit?


If it were me and you are refering to this kit https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-p360 then yes its good starting point you can always look at expanding from this kit later and maybe going the hardline route at some stage when you have more experience and a better idea of what you are doing







You will need a couple of right angle fittings if you put the VRM block in the loop and maybe 2 more for the pump res combo (see picture below of my previous set up), point being have a few extra fittings just in case, nothing worse than a $10 fitting stopping you completing your loop see link for 90 degree fittings needed on VRM block
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-angled-90-g1-4-nickel


----------



## strokin3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> 
> 
> IMO, this is a great option for a top filter. Hexagon .25 inch holes mesh. Black good paint also picks up lighting pretty well.
> 
> I have some extra mesh. If anyone wants some, send me a pm.


Looks good. Can you make a black one ?


----------



## strokin3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> If it were me and you are refering to this kit https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-p360 then yes its good starting point you can always look at expanding from this kit later and maybe going the hardline route at some stage when you have more experience and a better idea of what you are doing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will need a couple of right angle fittings if you put the VRM block in the loop and maybe 2 more for the pump res combo (see picture below of my previous set up), point being have a few extra fittings just in case, nothing worse than a $10 fitting stopping you completing your loop see link for 90 degree fittings needed on VRM block
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-angled-90-g1-4-nickel


Great i'll start with that then. Yeah hard tubing definitely looks alot better. What are those things on your fans called btw? The red parts.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> Great i'll start with that then. Yeah hard tubing definitely looks alot better. What are those things on your fans called btw? The red parts.


The red things on the corners of the fans are part of the corsair ML Pro fans which come in blue as well, Vardar fans supplied with your kit are actually a pretty good starting point








http://www.corsair.com/en-ww/ml120-pro-led-red-120mm-premium-magnetic-levitation-fan


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> Looks good. Can you make a black one ?


Are you referring to a modded top? I had it done by a shop. I can ask them when/if they are taking orders, but I don't want to step ahead of their plans.


----------



## strokin3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> The red things on the corners of the fans are part of the corsair ML Pro fans which come in blue as well, Vardar fans supplied with your kit are actually a pretty good starting point
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/en-ww/ml120-pro-led-red-120mm-premium-magnetic-levitation-fan


Oh I see. A blue one would be nice. I did hear the vardars are really good too. Whats your opinion?
I just watched the de-lidding tutorial and it doesn't seem like an easy task lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Are you referring to a modded top? I had it done by a shop. I can ask them when/if they are taking orders, but I don't want to step ahead of their plans.


Yeah I was talking about the top. No need. I'm sure I can find a shop around here to do it. How much did it cost?


----------



## Papa Emeritus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> 
> 
> IMO, this is a great option for a top filter. Hexagon .25 inch holes mesh. Black gloss paint also picks up lighting pretty well.
> 
> I have some extra mesh. If anyone wants some, send me a pm.


Looks great!


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> Oh I see. A blue one would be nice. I did hear the vardars are really good too. Whats your opinion?
> I just watched the de-lidding tutorial and it doesn't seem like an easy task lol
> Yeah I was talking about the top. No need. I'm sure I can find a shop around here to do it. How much did it cost?


Delid is easy and perfectly safe if you use one of these https://rockitcool.myshopify.com/
As for fans the Corsair ML fans work very well on radiators or as case fans and they are very quiet but they are not cheap, personally try the supplied Vardar fans first and see how they go changing fans at a later date is not that hard to do.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Because the face of the VRM block on the formula board is slightly recessed, 16mm or 5/8" fittings are too large in outside diameter and wont seat properly as they hit the side of the water block. You could use a right angle fitting to get around this as pointed out or as I stated earlier use a smaller diameter spacer to space out the larger fitting.


Actually yes I remember this when installing the fittings on my board. A dremmel may be able to flatten the seating area for larger fittings.


----------



## alanthecelt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Delid is easy and perfectly safe if you use one of these https://rockitcool.myshopify.com/
> As for fans the Corsair ML fans work very well on radiators or as case fans and they are very quiet but they are not cheap, personally try the supplied Vardar fans first and see how they go changing fans at a later date is not that hard to do.


i used a dr delid, very easy

varder's are supposed to be some of the best i believe?
Also, the tests on the supplied phanteks fans make them out to be an excellent performance/silence compromise. I'm running these, although i have nothing to compare them to really


----------



## ModMyMods

Hey everyone! Another update. We are pretty much done with the sample before running production on these top covers. What do you all think of this black one?


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModMyMods*
> 
> Hey everyone! Another update. We are pretty much done with the sample before running production on these top covers. What do you all think of this black one?


----------



## haszek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModMyMods*
> 
> Hey everyone! Another update. We are pretty much done with the sample before running production on these top covers. What do you all think of this black one?


I think it's awesome...shipment to uk gunmetal please


----------



## springs113

I love it...I may pick one up for the misses if she decides to put my monster Hawaii cards in her PC.


----------



## paskowitz

Looks great!


----------



## kevindd992002

How's the restriction on those dust filters?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> How's the restriction on those dust filters?


I think there is enough surface area that it shouldn't matter overall. I mean, maybe if you have 3x120mm fans at 2000rpm... but at like 1000rpm... nah.


----------



## trawetSluaP

Honestly, can't say I'm a fan. I much prefer the honey comb design.


----------



## tbuttery

I like subtle. Those honey combs are too flashy for me.

I want the one above, then with a Demcifilter below it for dust protection as my fans up top are intakes.


----------



## strokin3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> The red things on the corners of the fans are part of the corsair ML Pro fans which come in blue as well, Vardar fans supplied with your kit are actually a pretty good starting point
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/en-ww/ml120-pro-led-red-120mm-premium-magnetic-levitation-fan


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModMyMods*
> 
> Hey everyone! Another update. We are pretty much done with the sample before running production on these top covers. What do you all think of this black one?


Looks nice. When are you expecting to have these for sale?


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModMyMods*
> 
> Hey everyone! Another update. We are pretty much done with the sample before running production on these top covers. What do you all think of this black one?


Looks good but prefer @paskowitz design.


----------



## nycgtr

The honeycomb design does not match this case imo, it's also but ugly imo. Also, I think to produce that design on a cnc requires more cost that it would with the design being offered. I think the design being offered goes along with the case design and isn't overboard.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> The honeycomb design does not match this case imo, it's also but ugly imo. Also, I think to produce that design on a cnc requires more cost that it would with the design being offered. I think the design being offered goes along with the case design and isn't overboard.


Everybody has a favorite flavor of ice cream.


----------



## Raxus

My 1080ti 7700k build

Has anyone tried automotive window tiniting for the back tempered glass panel? I really don't care for it being exposed


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raxus*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 1080ti 7700k build
> 
> Has anyone tried automotive window tiniting for the back tempered glass panel? I really don't care for it being exposed


Many people have done that. Get something like 5% and you'll never see those cables again.


----------



## Raxus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Many people have done that. Get something like 5% and you'll never see those cables again.


Awesome, I'll have to look for examples.


----------



## m22tran

Does anyone know if this ddc mount will fit in the ventilated area to the left of the graphics card area?

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-holder-ddc-v2

I m unable to find dimensions far that ddc holder anywhere.

Forgot to add that my case is atx


----------



## DarthBaggins

Thinking about moving to the Evolv (mATX) from my 303, keep getting drawn to this case. Plus want to downsize from an ATX mid-tower. Only thing I'm seeing is I'll have to get creative w/ my 3.5 drives as I plan on mounting a 360 up front plus where I'd be mounting the pump.


----------



## BHTeam

Here is my top mod.


----------



## ntsarb

Is it efficient to install a 3-fans radiator at the top of the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX?

My concern is that not enough air can exit the upper side of the case.

Thanks.


----------



## glegz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BHTeam*
> 
> Here is my top mod.


Looks nice! Did you get it laser cut? How much as it?


----------



## BHTeam

Yes, this is laser cut. Cost me 15 Euro at a local shop. Had to give them only 2D sketch ot the top to cut.


----------



## JFM98

Hey guys, almost done sorting the case out for my custom loop however I need some ideas on how to accurately measure where to drill my 20mm hole for the passthrough fitting on the PSU shroud. I have uploaded some pics to


http://imgur.com/tf8U7

 there and have showed what I'd like to do. The drainage system I have right now may change and may just use a standard T fitting with male to male fittings attached to the valve and pass through.

I realise I only have one shot at getting the hole correct and I am not too sure how to go about it since the fitting is in the basement.

Also, I will be attaching them to the pump top etc. before marking where to drill!

Thanks in advance!


----------



## alanthecelt

i did something similar with the fitting behind my gpu
where there hole will be through the perforated part you will have lots of wiggle room
i cut through the perforations with a dremel
offered it up and adjusted by grinding in the correct direction
its the sort of thing you have to use some judgement and guess work, bit more difficult if you are going hardline


----------



## nycgtr

I will be receiving the modmymods top tomorrow from Joe. I will be posting pics and then running a load loop for 30mins with my wide cut top, stock lid (i will be covering the cut out to simulate this as I no longer have a stock lid and of course the modmymods sample top. Will keep you guys posted.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I will be receiving the modmymods top tomorrow from Joe. I will be posting pics and then running a load loop for 30mins with my wide cut top, stock lid (i will be covering the cut out to simulate this as I no longer have a stock lid and of course the modmymods sample top. Will keep you guys posted.


Look forward to seeing your results. So I take it the modmymods top is now available for purchase?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Look forward to seeing your results. So I take it the modmymods top is now available for purchase?


Not sure about that. Mine is a sample to test against.


----------



## nycgtr

Okay guys I got the top today. I will be running some temp comparisons as soon as I can.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Okay guys I got the top today. I will be running some temp comparisons as soon as I can.


Nice photos.


----------



## nycgtr

I got the results and it's quite surprising!

The sample modmymods top performs near identical to the cut top I had already which is just a huge rectangle. I think this is due to the radiator mounted placement in the evolv. One of the cuts directly lines up with the whole length of the 360 I have on top along with the more permeable mesh on the top vs my decimex filter.

Test conditions and hardware:

Ambient Temperature: 29.5C (hot up in this apartment)
Ryzen 1800x @ 1.32V 3.9ghz
Titan X pascal @ 120% power limit +500 to mem +225 to core.
Cooling gear:
EK supremacy EVO
EK txp blocks
Pump EK D5 revo
Rads HWLABS GTS 360x2
Fans: 140mm Prolima ultra slim, 6x ML 120 Corsair
PSU: EVGA G2 1300

Test: Valley loop for 25 mins for each top. With a cool down period in between to return cards to a similar starting temp.

For those interested in the data

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1HseuNmSWUETVzWkQ4g1G44tKuvSIWZQq94HZ1PCHrO0/edit?usp=sharing

The stock lid I emulated by just covering the cut out completely on my top. My gpu boost clock dropped by 30mhz with the stock lid, in line with pascal thermal behavior. Across the board temps were higher by a few C on things like the motherboard, ram, nvme etc. Also the fans were going at max. My fan speeds are set based on water temp. T sensor = water temp.


----------



## Deja123

can you tell me how you did this or where you got it done? also if you happen to have a blueprint or some type of file for the cutting do you mind sending it? i really like this front panel and i really want it done, the fabricators in my state require some sort of blueprint. please respond.


----------



## nycgtr

This is a top that's part of a run by ModMyMods this is a sample of the final product afaik. I don't know when they will start selling them or what not but I will post any updates I am aware of.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> This is a top that's part of a run by ModMyMods this is a sample of the final product afaik. I don't know when they will start selling them or what not but I will post any updates I am aware of.


I appreciate the testing you have done and shown in your previous post but I cant make sense of it. How much do CPU temps drop by under load with the modmymod top fitted?


----------



## Deja123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> I appreciate the testing you have done and shown in your previous post but I cant make sense of it. How much do CPU temps drop by under load with the modmymod top fitted?


the top panel does not have big enough vent holes to fully expel the hot heat pulled in by some of the fans. by putting custom mods on the top you can expel more excess heat through the top cooling the inside of the case


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deja123*
> 
> the top panel does not have big enough vent holes to fully expel the hot heat pulled in by some of the fans. by putting custom mods on the top you can expel more excess heat through the top cooling the inside of the case


I understand that, what Im asking is how much more efficient is the top radiator with the modded top ie:by not circulating the hot air around how much difference does it make to CPU temps under load?


----------



## tbuttery

TAKE MY MONEY!!!!


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> I understand that, what Im asking is how much more efficient is the top radiator with the modded top ie:by not circulating the hot air around how much difference does it make to CPU temps under load?


I kept the cpu stress at most at only 10% on all 3 tests. I did however load my 2 oc titanxps at a very high load. My cpu does not get that hot even underload and doesn't dump much heat into my loop. The stock lid if u check the data had higher temps for mobo, ram, nvme drive by 2-3c. Mind you I am under water. My gpu temp max was 5c higher with the stock lid. This may not seem like much but the fans were running at max speed with the stock lid and very noisy, while very acceptable level of noise with the 2 modded lids and at a much lower speed with better temps.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I kept the cpu stress at most at only 10% on all 3 tests. I did however load my 2 oc titanxps at a very high load. My cpu does not get that hot even underload and doesn't dump much heat into my loop. The stock lid if u check the data had higher temps for mobo, ram, nvme drive by 2-3c. Mind you I am under water. My gpu temp max was 5c higher with the stock lid. This may not seem like much but the fans were running at max speed with the stock lid and very noisy, while very acceptable level of noise with the 2 modded lids and at a much lower speed with better temps.


Im wondering now if it is worthwhile for me to get a modded top. Running OCCT (large data sets 7700K [email protected])for 1 hour my max CPU temp is 80 degrees C with an ambient of 27 degrees C. Fan speed sits around 1500RPM which is noisy but not that noisy, at iddle my fans only sit at 600RPM. I was hoping modded lid would translate to an overall cooler CPU under load by around 8 to 10 degrees C since I wouldn't be recirculating the hot air in the case but that doesn't seem to be the case.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Im wondering now if it is worthwhile for me to get a modded top. Running OCCT (large data sets 7700K [email protected])for 1 hour my max CPU temp is 80 degrees C with an ambient of 27 degrees C. Fan speed sits around 1500RPM which is noisy but not that noisy, at iddle my fans only sit at 600RPM. I was hoping modded lid would translate to an overall cooler CPU under load by around 8 to 10 degrees C since I wouldn't be recirculating the hot air in the case but that doesn't seem to be the case.


Think that depends on your cooling config. You might wanna delid as that would bring better temps automatically. 80c is ridiculous for kabylake imo. I have a skylake 6700k @ 4.8 and it never goes over 60c on load and never delided.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Think that depends on your cooling config. You might wanna delid as that would bring better temps automatically. 80c is ridiculous for kabylake imo. I have a skylake 6700k @ 4.8 and it never goes over 60c on load and never delided.


My 7700k is already delided which dropped CPU core temps by an average of 22 degrees C in my case. I had a delided 6700K [email protected] but even though my 6700K ran with a Vcore that was 50mV higher than my 7700K using the same cooling and case my 7700K runs about 8 degrees C hotter under the same OCCT load and ambient, yes Kabylake runs very hot.


----------



## paskowitz

Please note that modding the top will change water temps (at given fan RPM)... which change core temps. If you have anything larger than a 240mm radiator up top, I would do the top panel mod.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Please note that modding the top will change water temps (at given fan RPM)... which change core temps. If you have anything larger than a 240mm radiator up top, I would do the top panel mod.


Thats what I was thinking cooler water in the loop would lead to cooler CPU core temps, but Im trying to get an idea of how much difference in degrees C vs not modifying the lid. I might conduct my own experiment and run something like OCCT avx linpack for 10 minutes with the lid on, let system cool down then try with the lid off to see how much difference it actually makes to CPU core temps.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Thats what I was thinking cooler water in the loop would lead to cooler CPU core temps, but Im trying to get an idea of how much difference in degrees C vs not modifying the lid. I might conduct my own experiment and run something like OCCT avx linpack for 10 minutes with the lid on, let system cool down then try with the lid off to see how much difference it actually makes to CPU core temps.


Totally depends on the amount of watts generated and the efficiency of the rads/fans expelling those watts (heat). HWL rads work well at a low fan RPM (air flow rate). Some EK rads work better at higher RPM. In the latter case, the stock top would disproportionately effect the EK (vs the HWL). The top only becomes a problem when the rads expel more air than the vents can exhaust. The air has to go somewhere, so it manifests as either resistance or even worse, goes back into the case chamber or the radiator itself. For example, when I had Noctua NF-A14 3000rpm fans on my top HWL GTS 280, if I set the RPM to 3000rpm with the stock top, I could actually feel the air coming back through the fan itself. However, at like 500rpm there is no such effect and temps barely change top on vs top off.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Totally depends on the amount of watts generated and the efficiency of the rads/fans expelling those watts (heat). HWL rads work well at a low fan RPM (air flow rate). Some EK rads work better at higher RPM. In the latter case, the stock top would disproportionately effect the EK (vs the HWL). The top only becomes a problem when the rads expel more air than the vents can exhaust. The air has to go somewhere, so it manifests as either resistance or even worse, goes back into the case chamber or the radiator itself. For example, when I had Noctua NF-A14 3000rpm fans on my top HWL GTS 280, if I set the RPM to 3000rpm with the stock top, I could actually feel the air coming back through the fan itself. However, at like 500rpm there is no such effect and temps barely change top on vs top off.


This is a very good point, and illustrates why we see issues with higher rpm fans and denser rads than we do with something like an HWL GTS. +Rep


----------



## Paperchaser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> 
> 
> IMO, this is a great option for a top filter. Hexagon .25 inch holes mesh. Black gloss paint also picks up lighting pretty well.
> 
> I have some extra mesh. If anyone wants some, send me a pm.


Where can I buy this one? I want to buy a custom TOP, Hook my up!!


----------



## Paperchaser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> This is not from MMM, but this is what my chevron deign looks like in actuality...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out well IMO.


Can someone hook my up with a top like the one mentioned above?


----------



## Deja123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> 
> 
> IMO, this is a great option for a top filter. Hexagon .25 inch holes mesh. Black gloss paint also picks up lighting pretty well.
> 
> I have some extra mesh. If anyone wants some, send me a pm.


Do you think you can make me a 2d/3D blueprint / cad file for a certain design? I need someone with experience.


----------



## paskowitz

I'll inquire with the guy who made it for me.


----------



## Deja123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I'll inquire with the guy who made it for me.


Thank you so much!


----------



## grizz311

I am interested in some advice fellas.
This is my current setup, but I am getting some pretty bad temps



My setup prior to this was just 1 240 Rad on the top ( the one that is in the front now) with only exhaust fans and 2 180 phanteks fans in the front as an intake ( I was only cooling CPU and would get temperatures in between 30 idle and 45-50 under load )

Ever since I got my GTX 1080ti and EKWB water block, I bought a 360 radiator and mounted it on top as an exhaust, I replaced the 2 180 phanteks in the front with 2 SP120s as an intake into the 240 radiator. I also replaced coolant from Mayhems pastel to Thermaltake C1000( Only thing I had on hand)

Temps went up to around 45C IDLE and 70C under load for CPU and around 40C IDLE and 65 under load for GPU. I can feel hot air coming from the top of the case.
What is my best change to do here?


----------



## subz3ro

Remove top/side panel and see if that has a massive difference in temps. If not, then maybe you need to flush your loop (could have blockage or something. My guess is that the hot air can't escape quick enough so it's being recycled back into case causing everything to heat up.


----------



## alanthecelt

yep, pop the top and front off and see if its caused by a restriction in either panel, most likely the top
contrary to popular approach i ended up pulling air in the top (even though i had vented the lid)
for perspective, i'm running
280 top vented with phanteks mp? fans on suck
thick 360 front with phanteks sp fans inlet
7600k oc to 5ghz @1.36-1.4v
1080ti @2030
under normal gaming the gpu will barely touch 50 degrees with the cpu sitting around 60 max, fans on barely audible (like there would have to be no sound on and i need to sit next to the PC)

if i run overnight mining i can get the gpu up to 60 degrees

my rig isn't the coolest running..i have an aquaero and water temp sensors coming so i will run it up with proper temperature control soon


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanthecelt*
> 
> yep, pop the top and front off and see if its caused by a restriction in either panel, most likely the top
> contrary to popular approach i ended up pulling air in the top (even though i had vented the lid)
> for perspective, i'm running
> 280 top vented with phanteks mp? fans on suck
> thick 360 front with phanteks sp fans inlet
> 7600k oc to 5ghz @1.36-1.4v
> 1080ti @2030
> under normal gaming the gpu will barely touch 50 degrees with the cpu sitting around 60 max, fans on barely audible (like there would have to be no sound on and i need to sit next to the PC)
> 
> if i run overnight mining i can get the gpu up to 60 degrees
> 
> my rig isn't the coolest running..i have an aquaero and water temp sensors coming so i will run it up with proper temperature control soon


Mining! Are you talking about Bitcoins? I figured that was dead a long time ago...

Wonder when Modmymods is going to start selling their top!


----------



## alanthecelt

it is dead really unless you buy a bucket load of hardware..
altcoins.. i do it randomly just for the sake of doing it....it isn't really viable for anything but it certainly gets some heat into the system


----------



## janreiviardo

Hi guys, I've just recently bought the case, I'm planning to do a EKWB PE 360 on top and a EKWB CE 280 at the front. I'm thinking of putting the CE 280 as far down as possible and putting in 3 120mm fans in front instead of 2 140mm fans. Reason is, I want the intake to have 2/3 cool and 2 1/3 hot coming in from the front so the top exhaust fans would push colder air instead of all heat from the front radiator. To help it, I'm putting rear fan intake as well. My question is, will I have any problem doing this? And what are your opinions over the setup I'm planning? Thanks!


----------



## grizz311

Looks like temps went down by a good 10 C under load on both GPU and CPU with the top and the front off
Trying to figure out what to do now... Wonder if I can fit an extra exhaust fan on the rear? or do a push/pull on the top radiator. or maybe upgrade to different fans?


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *janreiviardo*
> 
> Hi guys, I've just recently bought the case, I'm planning to do a EKWB PE 360 on top and a EKWB CE 280 at the front. I'm thinking of putting the CE 280 as far down as possible and putting in 3 120mm fans in front instead of 2 140mm fans. Reason is, I want the intake to have 2/3 cool and 2 1/3 hot coming in from the front so the top exhaust fans would push colder air instead of all heat from the front radiator. To help it, I'm putting rear fan intake as well. My question is, will I have any problem doing this? And what are your opinions over the setup I'm planning? Thanks!


Using fans that aren't the right size for the radiator is not ideal. For the fan to be able to produce static pressure that forces air through the rad it needs to be able to seal against the rad surface.


----------



## janreiviardo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Using fans that aren't the right size for the radiator is not ideal. For the fan to be able to produce static pressure that forces air through the rad it needs to be able to seal against the rad surface.


Thanks! I guess I'll just go with 280mm rad front and 2 140 fans + 1 80 or 100 fan.


----------



## alanthecelt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizz311*
> 
> Looks like temps went down by a good 10 C under load on both GPU and CPU with the top and the front off
> Trying to figure out what to do now... Wonder if I can fit an extra exhaust fan on the rear? or do a push/pull on the top radiator. or maybe upgrade to different fans?


you need to get the hot air out, hence the top mods this thread is filled with
if the hot air is pushed into the lid it will follow the path of least resistance and make its way back into the main chamber or create back pressure in the lid for the fans below it
so you either have to let the air out, or put less in there in the first place


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *janreiviardo*
> 
> Hi guys, I've just recently bought the case, I'm planning to do a EKWB PE 360 on top and a EKWB CE 280 at the front. I'm thinking of putting the CE 280 as far down as possible and putting in 3 120mm fans in front instead of 2 140mm fans. Reason is, I want the intake to have 2/3 cool and 2 1/3 hot coming in from the front so the top exhaust fans would push colder air instead of all heat from the front radiator. To help it, I'm putting rear fan intake as well. My question is, will I have any problem doing this? And what are your opinions over the setup I'm planning? Thanks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Using fans that aren't the right size for the radiator is not ideal. For the fan to be able to produce static pressure that forces air through the rad it needs to be able to seal against the rad surface.


As @Ashcroft states, you will not be getting much flow through the rad this way.

Also - the CE 280 is 320mm in length, so you would have only ~40 mm of one fan exposed in the configuration you are suggesting. That won't provide enough fresh air to make any difference.

So, yes, stick with a pair of 140mm.


----------



## paskowitz

If you want the top cover that I had done *PM me*, and I'll give you the email of the guy who did it. I have no information on pricing or availability.

All I know is the following:

You would be shipping your original stock panel to him and he would cut it and ship it back. That is between $10-25 each way (location depending)
My design is the default, but a custom one would be possible (likely an added cost)
Mesh is likely not included unless specified (also extra) (easy to get online)
For reference:


----------



## grizz311

Could you please send me his email? I think I will need this service. Do you guys recommend fans to replace the SP120s?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizz311*
> 
> Could you please send me his email? I think I will need this service. Do you guys recommend fans to replace the SP120s?


Phanteks F120MP, eLoops, GTs, be quiet! SW3, EK Vardar.....that would be the start of a very extensive list of fans I would recommend over SP120s.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Phanteks F120MP, eLoops, GTs, be quiet! SW3, EK Vardar.....that would be the start of a very extensive list of fans I would recommend over SP120s.


Would the list include Arctic F12?


----------



## grizz311

Do you guys recommend I do anything else to my loop after I take care of the enclosure top? Add an exhaust fan to the rear? Change current intakes/exhausts?
I very much appreciate all of your feedback.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Would the list include Arctic F12?


Never tried them on a rad. Though I suppose it would be difficult for them to _not_ be better than SP120s.........


----------



## Tonza

Just modded my case (top panel), been thinking this since day 1 at release when i bought the case, have been running my PC top panel removed ever since







. Didn´t have any fancy tools, so i decided to do it free hand with jig saw and put phobya 360 radiator grill to hide the cut hole, looks pretty nice (need to get dust filter tho).


----------



## alanthecelt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizz311*
> 
> Could you please send me his email? I think I will need this service. Do you guys recommend fans to replace the SP120s?


in my option
the fans that come with the case are the equivalent of the 140MP, at least in my case, it seems to be the fans with 6? blades are better for denser radiator fins, while the SP range contrary to their naming, are better for low density radiators or case ventilation.
i'm quite happy with my setup, 2x 140mp on my 15fpi 280, and 3x 120sp on my 360 9?fpi and one 140sp as an exhaust

and going back to my build, just had an aquaero 5 and water temperature sensors turn up








also manage to buy 2 top covers for £10 delivered which had minor imperfections (one will be were my second vent attempt will go)


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanthecelt*
> 
> in my option
> the fans that come with the case are the equivalent of the 140MP, at least in my case, it seems to be the fans with 6? blades are better for denser radiator fins, while the SP range contrary to their naming, are better for low density radiators or case ventilation.
> i'm quite happy with my setup, 2x 140mp on my 15fpi 280, and 3x 120sp on my 360 9?fpi and one 140sp as an exhaust
> 
> and going back to my build, just had an aquaero 5 and water temperature sensors turn up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also manage to buy 2 top covers for £10 delivered which had minor imperfections (one will be were my second vent attempt will go)


The poster is looking to replace the Corsair SP120 on his rad, _not_ the F140SP (or MP variant) included with the case.


----------



## alanthecelt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The poster is looking to replace the Corsair SP120 on his rad, _not_ the F140SP (or MP variant) included with the case.


oh yer... i read 120sp


----------



## Kostadinos

Ηere is way to put the fans under the radiator bracket enjoy


----------



## grizz311

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kostadinos*
> 
> Ηere is way to put the fans under the radiator bracket enjoy


Awesome! Makes me want to do a push/pull setup now. 8 X 120 fans though, ooof.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kostadinos*
> 
> Ηere is way to put the fans under the radiator bracket enjoy


Ok......do you have a "proper way" that doesn't impede the airflow?


----------



## kfxsti

My 9 ton knock out came into today. Have a pretty neat idea coming.


----------



## senna89

Excuse me guys

I bought an Evolv ATX Tempered Glass, and i still not bought the PC hardware but i want to ask you a question.



trols and front LED, but i notice also a cable with SATA power connector, *what is this* ? the card need to be powered ?
Ih the connector theres writed "_power_", but *what means* ???

And the reset cable where is ?

This is the description words on the connectors from left to right :

Connector 1 : frontal led cable
Connector 2 : LED SW
Connector 3 : PWR ( the cable with SATA power connector im speaking about )
Connector 4 : RGB
Connector 5 : PWR SV ( This is the cable for ON ? )


----------



## szeater

There is no reset button on the Evolv TG, the card needs power to power the LEDs that are plugged into it. You can also connect extra LED strips which again source their power from this board.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grizz311*
> 
> Awesome! Makes me want to do a push/pull setup now. 8 X 120 fans though, ooof.


What ciarlatano said. A single fan needs a minimum of 30 mm between itself and case / floor to draw air. Fans side by side (like on radiator) need about 45 mm minimum.
This spacing is still restricting airflow, but at least gives fan about the same airflow area as fan has.
120mm fan has 100 sq cm of airflow area .. 120 mm circle 30 mm tall has 113 sq cm of area.
140mm fan has about 140 sq cm of airflow area .. a 140 mm circle has 130 sq cm flow area.
Rule of thumb is for a axial fans to have front and back clearance of no less than fan diameter .. obviously this is not possible in our computer cases. I have found having at least as much airflow area to a fan as fan's area works reasonably well. Any less dramtically lowers airflow as well as increasing noise dramatically.
Here is a visual explanation for bottom case fans, but we often see similar spacing for case front and top venting .. and is applicable to radiator fans as well.


----------



## Kostadinos

Μayhems Orange Pastel !!!!


----------



## kaiqi07

Just to share my humble rig. Completed fixing the watercooling loop. This build color theme is Neutral Tones which are black white and grey. Fittings, Fan Blades and Copper Tubes are all silver chrome / silver shiny.

There are a total of two drain ports to enable easier to drain out the coolant from the Reservoir as well as GPU. This enables me to swap out the GPU easier for future upgrades.

As the Phanteks Evolv ATX TG is not really Watercooling Friendly, I can only use 30mm radiators (360 and 240) I had to use a 240mm radiator so that I am able to keep my HDD cage at the bottom of the PSU Chamber.

Cooling wise, it is not the best setup as the temps still hovers at 49 - 61 degrees for my GPU due to the poor air flow (even after modding the top and front panels). I had swapped out the NZXT AER RGB fans for the Gentle Typhoons to improve the temps.

LED lighting wise, I am using RGB as well. I am using both ASUS Aura Sync as well as NZXT Hue. I will be modding my own 5mm RGB LEDs to be hooked up to both the GPUs which will be use to illuminate both the reservoir as well as the CPU block.

*Overview of the rig interior*


http://imgur.com/WvqcKKG





http://imgur.com/emkEsBV





http://imgur.com/KARdaa4



*Painted Chrome Gentle Typhoon Blades*


http://imgur.com/xQqdJak



*ASUS Strix 1080TI SLI with Bitspower Blocks*


http://imgur.com/q3tUPKQ


----------



## scracy

Hardly humble, that looks really good. Suprised by GPU temps though my setup is similar cooling wise and my GPUs top out at around 55 degrees C, perhaps 1080Ti runs a lot hotter than a 1070?


----------



## kaiqi07

Hi, just edited the post. the latest tested temps are 49 - 61 degrees for both cards. I had swapped out the AER RGB fans with Gentle Typhoons. I also just added a slipstream slim 120mm fan as a rear intake making a total of 3 intake/ 3 exhaust.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> Hi, just edited the post. the latest tested temps are 49 - 61 degrees for both cards. I had swapped out the AER RGB fans with Gentle Typhoons. I also just added a slipstream slim 120mm fan as a rear intake making a total of 3 intake/ 3 exhaust.


Either way nice work +1 rep


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kostadinos*
> 
> Μayhems Orange Pastel !!!!


that looks real nice, especially that coolant. What gpu are you planning to use?


----------



## szeater

Here are some pics of my build! I did this towards the end of last year; long-time lurker of this thread, first time posting.





Parts list is here: https://au.pcpartpicker.com/b/qDr7YJ

It was my first attempt at watercooling, so forgive the bad bend at the bottom from the pump to the GPU, pretty proud of the rest of them though









I really need to redo that bend though. Also hoping to install an Aquaero controller and some temp sensors so I can start to cool on Delta T, delid the 6700k, and modify the top when I do the first refill.


----------



## DigitrevX

Finished a new build in the Evolv.
It's a nice case for my theme of trying to match a macbook pro look with the space grey theme.
Nice build materials over all. Nearly perfect other then the issues at the bottom.

I feel like I have to explain why the GPU isn't in the loop here. I VJ on the side and I intend to take the card out for events where I need a high power card. If it's part of a loop that makes things tough. I feel the cooler on the card is already over engineered and with nvida's voltage limitation it doesn't even get all that hot with the voltage maxed on the air cooler.

I haven't gotten much of a chance to overclock or benchmark. I have delid the 7700k, so the temps should never be a issue ever.
With the 960 evo m.2 and 1080ti I'm sure it will be a lit system.

It's running distilled water and primochil uv electic blue additive. Personally it comes out really pale when you follow their instructions. I was hoping for a tad bit stronger of a color. It reminds me of windex..

I decided the run my tubing as close as I could to the top of the gpu to show off the motherboard and ram. It's also nice because I can remove the ram without dissembling the loop. The tubing is not touching the gpu btw.
I wish I could turn the EK logo on the cpu block. I mounted the block up right to get a strait shot off the mobo block on the asus formula IX. Btw even tho it's "designed" by EK, they still managed to not match the height of their own cpu blocks lol. So I had to jog the tube up which was a pain to bend. I got spacers on order to fix it if I want.
Also got cable combs on order.










My gripes, mainly wasted space complaints.

-I need the HD cage. I'm a content creator as well and I gota hang onto the two bays they give you lol. So there are some issue's with their design such as I had to cut the top of the HDD cage to fit 3 mm for the 240rad to clear the slim 25mm SE 360 and 25mm for regular 120 fans. I consider that a over site when the case could have been 3 mm taller to accommodate this what I consider a fairly common desire to fit as much rad as you can in the case.
This also means bye bye HD cover plate because LOL who needs 3mm.. The rad fits like it should without any top mount rads. But again why would you make the case 3mm too short to fit what we expect to fit.

-This case wastes so much space with the gap between the top rad sliding tray and the actual top of the case. Easly 120's can be mounted in pull config to make more space inside the case if they didn't doof around with the 2 inches of space they could have given us.

- This case could have used a few mm longer as well. This case is targeted towards fairly high end builds. Why would they have such limited support for E-ATX and GPU's 300mm long. We are talking 5-10 mm more then the case is currently. So why??

- I'm using phanteks strip led's. Between the case and what they give you with the strip kits they could have made it a bit cleaner to deal with in terms of cables. Looping and folding the cable up to make it look nice really is kinda dumb from a manufacturer that put a window on the back. Not to mention for the cost of the case and marketing tricks used it shoulda come with the strips in the first place. lmao.

-Last the fan hub. I have Corsair ML pro's which need actual pwm (I know my needs are sorta special). Phanteks hub isn't actually full pwm. What it is, is a pwm controller circut that is connected to your motherboards pwm header that controls the voltage of the fans on the hub. It works but its sorta fake. But it really doesn't work for Corsair ML pro's. They need 12v all the time so I had to swap out the Phanteks hub with a silverstone hub which works great and has a nicer sata power cable.


----------



## senna89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeater*
> 
> There is no reset button on the Evolv TG, the card needs power to power the LEDs that are plugged into it. You can also connect extra LED strips which again source their power from this board.


I want to connect only the power on cable, so i can remove the led power cable without problems, right ?


----------



## tbuttery

Hey Guys,

Figured I would finally post my finished build. About 3 months late....but better late than never! I tried my best with the cable management. All the cable were custom made by me, and sleeved by me as well. i think it turned out pretty good considering the amount of cable I had.

Just a few of the basic components below :

- Asus Maximus IX Hero
- i7-7700K
- GTX 1070 Strix
- Samsung 960 Evo 256 GB
- Samsung 850 Evo 500 GB
- EVGA 1000 P2

Now for the good part!


----------



## Benny89

So I am aiming to finally water cool my build and make my first cutom loop. A did a lot of researching and I have read almost every post here from like page 20.

I have to say the the differences between loops are really big in case of this case (lol...). Some poeple are having load GPU temps here on a level of below 40C or lowish 40C and some a shooting to high 50 and even 60.

But so far I have came to conclusion that this case is best to use with SLIM radiators to not restrict airflow even more. At least many people with best temps in this thread didn't use thick rads.

I am planning to go one of two routs I was thinking about:

1. *Top*- Push EK PE 360mm rad mounted to the aluminium arms at top (slider bracket removed) with 3x Corair SP120 2350 rpm High Performance or 3x3000 rpm EK Vardars.
*Front*- EK PE 240mm Push rad (maybe push pull if I can get pump and res horizontally below GPU). 3xCorsailr ML120 Pro Premium in front.

2. *Both Top and Front* - 2x 360 GTS Hardware Labs radiators with top push 3x Vardars or SP120 and front Push Pull 6x Vardars or 6x ML120 Pro Premium.

So many great results with option 2 but option 1 would look better. However I am afraid push alone may not give good enough airflow through EK PE radiators versions.

What do you guys think? Which is better?

My ambient temps are 21-24 in room because of AC.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> So I am aiming to finally water cool my build and make my first cutom loop. A did a lot of researching and I have read almost every post here from like page 20.
> 
> I have to say the the differences between loops are really big in case of this case (lol...). Some poeple are having load GPU temps here on a level of below 40C or lowish 40C and some a shooting to high 50 and even 60.
> 
> But so far I have came to conclusion that this case is best to use with SLIM radiators to not restrict airflow even more. At least many people with best temps in this thread didn't use thick rads.
> 
> I am planning to go one of two routs I was thinking about:
> 
> 1. *Top*- Push EK PE 360mm rad mounted to the aluminium arms at top (slider bracket removed) with 3x Corair SP120 2350 rpm High Performance or 3x3000 rpm EK Vardars.
> *Front*- EK PE 240mm Push rad (maybe push pull if I can get pump and res horizontally below GPU). 3xCorsailr ML120 Pro Premium in front.
> 
> 2. *Both Top and Front* - 2x 360 GTS Hardware Labs radiators with top push 3x Vardars or SP120 and front Push Pull 6x Vardars or 6x ML120 Pro Premium.
> 
> So many great results with option 2 but option 1 would look better. However I am afraid push alone may not give good enough airflow through EK PE radiators versions.
> 
> What do you guys think? Which is better?
> 
> My ambient temps are 21-24 in room because of AC.


So are you saying push as in taking inside case air and pushing it through the Radiators? OR are you saying bringing in cold outside air and pushing it through the radiators...similar to my setup the post above yours.

I would say if you are doing the last one, you will be perfectly fine. My outside temperature is around 22C and I hardly see the water Temperature get above 89-90F, and my GTX 1070 stays at a max of 48C. Now, these temps are with the top cover removed, but once I get the modded top, all will be good.

At the end of the day, I think a simple push is more than enough. I don't think you will see too much benefit from the push/pull front Radiator...and keep in mind spacing for your Pump. There are too many locations for your pump in this case.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> So I am aiming to finally water cool my build and make my first cutom loop. A did a lot of researching and I have read almost every post here from like page 20.
> 
> I have to say the the differences between loops are really big in case of this case (lol...). Some poeple are having load GPU temps here on a level of below 40C or lowish 40C and some a shooting to high 50 and even 60.
> 
> But so far I have came to conclusion that this case is best to use with SLIM radiators to not restrict airflow even more. At least many people with best temps in this thread didn't use thick rads.
> 
> I am planning to go one of two routs I was thinking about:
> 
> 1. *Top*- Push EK PE 360mm rad mounted to the aluminium arms at top (slider bracket removed) with 3x Corair SP120 2350 rpm High Performance or 3x3000 rpm EK Vardars.
> *Front*- EK PE 240mm Push rad (maybe push pull if I can get pump and res horizontally below GPU). 3xCorsailr ML120 Pro Premium in front.
> 
> 2. *Both Top and Front* - 2x 360 GTS Hardware Labs radiators with top push 3x Vardars or SP120 and front Push Pull 6x Vardars or 6x ML120 Pro Premium.
> 
> So many great results with option 2 but option 1 would look better. However I am afraid push alone may not give good enough airflow through EK PE radiators versions.
> 
> What do you guys think? Which is better?
> 
> My ambient temps are 21-24 in room because of AC.


Option 2. Mounting fans on the top cross-braces is a one way ticket to turning your computer into an oven (unless you cut holes in the top panel).

I'd go with MLs or Vardars on everything. You don't need Push Pull in the front for a GTS radiator. If you're going with option 2 I would also include a slim 140mm intake fan for the rear.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> So are you saying push as in taking inside case air and pushing it through the Radiators? OR are you saying bringing in cold outside air and pushing it through the radiators...similar to my setup the post above yours.
> 
> I would say if you are doing the last one, you will be perfectly fine. My outside temperature is around 22C and I hardly see the water Temperature get above 89-90F, and my GTX 1070 stays at a max of 48C. Now, these temps are with the top cover removed, but once I get the modded top, all will be good.
> 
> At the end of the day, I think a simple push is more than enough. I don't think you will see too much benefit from the push/pull front Radiator...and keep in mind spacing for your Pump. There are too many locations for your pump in this case.


Sorry for not being more clear. Front push intake, top push exhaust.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Option 2. Mounting fans on the top cross-braces is a one way ticket to turning your computer into an oven (unless you cut holes in the top panel).
> 
> I'd go with MLs or Vardars on everything. You don't need Push Pull in the front for a GTS radiator. If you're going with option 2 I would also include a slim 140mm intake fan for the rear.


I meant mounting radiator itself to cross-braces and still mounting fans below it. This is the only way to fit EK PE 360 with fans below it.

Thanks guys. I still want to hear more opinions before making final decision so I am all ears.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Sorry for not being more clear. Front push intake, top push exhaust.
> I meant mounting radiator itself to cross-braces and still mounting fans below it. This is the only way to fit EK PE 360 with fans below it.
> 
> Thanks guys. I still want to hear more opinions before making final decision so I am all ears.


I am in total agreement with @paskowitz, two GTS all the way. The GTS are stellar low rpm performers which is of major importance when dealing with the restrictive top of the Evolv ATX. Also, the GTS will perform as well as or *better than* the 360PE at tolerable noise levels (http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/). And the 30mm rad looks much better up top.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I am in total agreement with @paskowitz, two GTS all the way. The GTS are stellar low rpm performers which is of major importance when dealing with the restrictive top of the Evolv ATX. Also, the GTS will perform as well as or *better than* the 360PE at tolerable noise levels (http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/). And the 30mm rad looks much better up top.


Ok, two GTS then. Any other tips for getting cool temps? I am planning to go "pump->front rad->GPU->top rad->CPU->res.

And use electric tape to patch all top holes in bracket. Any other tips?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Ok, two GTS then. Any other tips for getting cool temps? I am planning to go "pump->front rad->GPU->top rad->CPU->res.
> 
> And use electric tape to patch all top holes in bracket. Any other tips?


Loop order doesn't make a difference. Outside of sealing all the holes in the rad bracket, you can try making the rear fan an intake, modding the top panel (cut holes in it), and making sure you water blocks make good contact with your processors (this seems to be a common mistake lately). Using a decent TIM like Thermal Grizzly Kryonaught would be a good idea as well. Get a g1/4 water temp sensor and set your PWM fan curve to that.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Get a g1/4 water temp sensor and set your PWM fan curve to that.


This is a really nice thing that so many overlook. Keeps your fan speeds on much smoother curves, and has them working in accordance with what they are actually cooling.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Loop order doesn't make a difference. Outside of sealing all the holes in the rad bracket, you can try making the rear fan an intake, modding the top panel (cut holes in it), and making sure you water blocks make good contact with your processors (this seems to be a common mistake lately). Using a decent TIM like Thermal Grizzly Kryonaught would be a good idea as well. Get a g1/4 water temp sensor and set your PWM fan curve to that.


Hm, I thought it will be better to have rear fan exhaust (inside or outside of case depending of how it will be with those GTS rads). Well, whole thing is I don't want to mod panel because water loop itself is enough new challange for me.

Sensor? Something like this? : http://www.angela.pl/p9807,termometr-lcd-czerwony-z-czujnikiem-w-korku-g1-4.html


----------



## Benny89

Anyone recognize this pump/res combo and those fittings? (not my build). And those fans?



EDIT: better view on pump:


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Anyone recognize this pump/res combo and those fittings? (not my build). And those fans?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: better view on pump:


The fans are Noctua iPPC series (aka - the fans with the noise that make you twitch after a while), the fittings are Bitspower, not positive on the res but I believe it is last gen EK.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The fans are Noctua iPPC series (aka - the fans with the noise that make you twitch after a while), the fittings are Bitspower, not positive on the res but I believe it is last gen EK.


Thanks! Are bitspower fittings better than EK. I already ordered EK ones (had to cancel radiators order).


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Thanks! Are bitspower fittings better than EK. I already ordered EK ones (had to cancel radiators order).


Bitspower just have more options for types of fittings unless it's color. I think EK has them beat on color options.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Personally I'll take EK fittings over BitsPower any day.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Sorry for not being more clear. Front push intake, top push exhaust.
> *I meant mounting radiator itself to cross-braces and still mounting fans below it. This is the only way to fit EK PE 360 with fans below it.
> *
> Thanks guys. I still want to hear more opinions before making final decision so I am all ears.


Um... no its not see below PE-360/ Ml120 below Radiator


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Um... no its not see below PE-360/ Ml120 below Radiator


Ow, nice but you had to slide front rad down and remove HDD cage because it. Doing that (removing HDD bracket) I would go with 360 then anyway in front. What are your GPU temps on load with that setup? Also why rear fan is intake and no exhaust?


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Ow, nice but you had to slide front rad down and remove HDD cage because it. Doing that (removing HDD bracket) I would go with 360 then anyway in front. What are your GPU temps on load with that setup? Also why rear fan is intake and no exhaust?


Maximum GPU temps with a 27 degree C ambient is around 55 degrees C under load, I have 3 push exhaust fans on the 360 and 2 push intake fans on the front 240 and 1 intake fan on the rear to balance out the air flow and provide some airflow around the memory. You wont get a PE-360 in the top and on the front but you could get two slim radiators in like SE-360, however the slim EK rads are not very good so you wouldn't bother.


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Ow, nice but you had to slide front rad down and remove HDD cage because it. Doing that (removing HDD bracket) I would go with 360 then anyway in front. What are your GPU temps on load with that setup? Also why rear fan is intake and no exhaust?


Unless there is a rad skinnier then the 25mm thick SE rad. With any 25mm thick fan means removal of the HHD cage anyways sadly.
I did however find out cutting the top of the HDD cage allows for both HDD sleds to still work with a 240 in the front with a SE rad up top and normal 25mm thick fans.
Just sorta sucks you see the tops of your HDD's.

btw I'm only saying this to add to the top and front rad topic. Not suggesting to not go 360 in the front.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Maximum GPU temps with a 27 degree C ambient is around 55 degrees C under load, I have 3 push exhaust fans on the 360 and 2 push intake fans on the front 240 and 1 intake fan on the rear to balance out the air flow and provide some airflow around the memory. You wont get a PE-360 in the top and on the front but you could get two slim radiators in like SE-360, however the slim EK rads are not very good so you wouldn't bother.


I read that HWL Slim rads are better than EK slim rads.

I like what you did there. But seeing it on live I think the inside of this case looks now kinda... fat. I think I will stick to 2x Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS Radiator if not just for how sleek the whole case will look like after that.

hmm, but I might not be able to fit fan at the back... ow well, I will mount it outside if comes to that.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> I read that HWL Slim rads are better than EK slim rads.
> 
> I like what you did there. But seeing it on live I think the inside of this case looks now kinda... fat. I think I will stick to 2x Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS Radiator if not just for how sleek the whole case will look like after that.
> 
> hmm, but I might not be able to fit fan at the back... ow well, I will mount it outside if comes to that.


A slim ~12mm fan should fit with dual HWL GTS 360s. See NYCGTR's build.

I would also add that processor temps < ambient temp+30c is more than possible. Maybe X99/SLI Titans may push that, but otherwise, there is no reason you shouldn't be able to hit that.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> A slim ~12mm fan should fit with dual HWL GTS 360s. See NYCGTR's build.
> 
> I would also add that processor temps < ambient temp+30c is more than possible. Maybe X99/SLI Titans may push that, but otherwise, there is no reason you shouldn't be able to hit that.


EDIT: aaaaaaaaaa, I am dumb. You meant the rear fan! Sorry, english is not my native.

I will take a look at that, thanks!


----------



## paskowitz

I think??? this may be a first for an Evolv (backside mounted res).


More pics soon.


----------



## alanthecelt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> This is a really nice thing that so many overlook. Keeps your fan speeds on much smoother curves, and has them working in accordance with what they are actually cooling.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Loop order doesn't make a difference. Outside of sealing all the holes in the rad bracket, you can try making the rear fan an intake, modding the top panel (cut holes in it), and making sure you water blocks make good contact with your processors (this seems to be a common mistake lately). Using a decent TIM like Thermal Grizzly Kryonaught would be a good idea as well. Get a g1/4 water temp sensor and set your PWM fan curve to that.


this was the mistake i made, i assumed i could get away with a constant fan speed (inaudible) which i can. but i do get heat soak over time
so i've added to my build an aquaero and water temperature sensors to try and target ambient o(or just above) temperature
using CPU temperature was no good, even delidded you can still get spikes, on my setup the most constant reference to potential load seemed to be VRM temperature (full cover block) but working on water temperature is so much more relevant, enthusiast level boards should have an ambient and water temperature input :S


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanthecelt*
> 
> this was the mistake i made, i assumed i could get away with a constant fan speed (inaudible) which i can. but i do get heat soak over time
> so i've added to my build an aquaero and water temperature sensors to try and target ambient o(or just above) temperature
> using CPU temperature was no good, even delidded you can still get spikes, on my setup the most constant reference to potential load seemed to be VRM temperature (full cover block) but working on water temperature is so much more relevant, enthusiast level boards should have an ambient and water temperature input :S


But if you were lets say run fans at 70% all the time (lets forget about noise for a moment) then you wouldn't need to mess with their speed a lot, yes?


----------



## alanthecelt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> But if you were lets say run fans at 70% all the time (lets forget about noise for a moment) then you wouldn't need to mess with their speed a lot, yes?


i suspect if i ran them at closer to 50% i wouldn't, but that is in the audible range
id rather have near silence and then if i'm really really doing something demanding then the system can compensate


----------



## Benny89

So when I install my 360 GTX on slide bracket I should seal all possible holes and gaps around rad. Only on bracket or somewhere else too? Thanks.


----------



## kaiqi07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Personally I'll take EK fittings over BitsPower any day.


u serious? EK fittings over Bitspower? EK rotaries leaks on me a few times and honestly I had only 8 EK 90 degrees rotaries and 2 of them leaks and rest of them the joints felt loose... Whole on Bitspower, i had more than 20 pieces of 90D and 30 other types of T, Q, 45, 30, 60 degrees rotaries and they never leaked on me once.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiqi07*
> 
> u serious? EK fittings over Bitspower? EK rotaries leaks on me a few times and honestly I had only 8 EK 90 degrees rotaries and 2 of them leaks and rest of them the joints felt loose... Whole on Bitspower, i had more than 20 pieces of 90D and 30 other types of T, Q, 45, 30, 60 degrees rotaries and they never leaked on me once.


I'm pretty impartial on the fittings (I do prefer the Bitspower, but they are both good quality fittings). But as far as rotaries and the like, I would use Bitspower over EK every time.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I'm pretty impartial on the fittings (I do prefer the Bitspower, but they are both good quality fittings). But as far as rotaries and the like, I would use Bitspower over EK every time.


sadly bitspower fittings here in EU will cost me 2x more for same fitting vs EK so I go with EK. EK is at least based in EU so prices are better.


----------



## Benny89

What is better for cutting top panel- water cutting or laser cutting?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> sadly bitspower fittings here in EU will cost me 2x more for same fitting vs EK so I go with EK. EK is at least based in EU so prices are better.


Nothing wrong with EK fittings, they are very nice fittings. It was only the rotaries that were being commented on. @kaiqi07 and myself have both had EK rotaries leak, and I have seen a number of reports on it. I've never had an issue with a standard EK fitting.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I've had numerous BP fittings leak on me and multiple other companies, I've had a single EK 90 leak which I swapped out at the store I got it from. Seals on rotaries are never perfect, especially when 100-1000's are made there will be the occasional issue/flaw


----------



## Benny89

If I want to use 45 angle adapter and achieve this:



Do I have to use this adapter: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-angled-45-2f-g1-4-black

*OR*

This one?: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-angled-45-g1-4-black

And I need 2x Fitting for each of them when I want to mount that 45 adapter to rad and then to tube?? : https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-acf-fitting-10-13mm-black-2

I hate those fittings... I have no idea which to use and how to combine them...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I've had numerous BP fittings leak on me and multiple other companies, I've had a single EK 90 leak which I swapped out at the store I got it from. Seals on rotaries are never perfect, especially when 100-1000's are made there will be the occasional issue/flaw


I've actually never had a Bitspower or Monsoon leak on me, while I have had two EK 90s leak. The thing about that being.....I have used significantly more Bitspower and Monsoon 90s than EK. But, as you say, all of them will have issues to some degree.


----------



## DigitrevX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> If I want to use 45 angle adapter and achieve this:
> 
> 
> 
> Do I have to use this adapter: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-angled-45-2f-g1-4-black
> 
> *OR*
> 
> This one?: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-angled-45-g1-4-black
> 
> And I need 2x Fitting for each of them when I want to mount that 45 adapter to rad and then to tube?? : https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-acf-fitting-10-13mm-black-2
> 
> I hate those fittings... I have no idea which to use and how to combine them...


For this type of reason is why I go with bits power. 700 fitting choices is kinda nice.
It says 45 degree but the diagram looks like you want a 90 degree coming out of the rad. I usually do this with a 1/4g to 1/4g spacer. Then a rotary 90 degree into whatever 1/4g fitting you need for your tube. The reason for the spacer is if you are using standard 25mm fans a dual 45 like this https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-angled-2-45-g1-4-black wont clear your fan once you screw the compression fitting in.

Depending on how far away you want the tube to be from your fans I'd use the following.

--https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-extender-20mm-m-f-g1-4-black minimum extender off the rad. 30mm or something is available if you want more clearance.
--https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-angled-90-g1-4-black into rotary 90 degree
--https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-acf-fitting-10-13mm-black-2 into your choice of fitting, whatever tube your using.

Another alternative is rotary extensions into a regular 90, then into your fitting to choice. It's just a matter of clearing your fan closest to the rad port.

Also you can still use the expensive 2x 45 like you plan but u'll probably need a 8mm extender off the port to clear the fan.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I kept the cpu stress at most at only 10% on all 3 tests. I did however load my 2 oc titanxps at a very high load. My cpu does not get that hot even underload and doesn't dump much heat into my loop. The stock lid if u check the data had higher temps for mobo, ram, nvme drive by 2-3c. Mind you I am under water. My gpu temp max was 5c higher with the stock lid. This may not seem like much but the fans were running at max speed with the stock lid and very noisy, while very acceptable level of noise with the 2 modded lids and at a much lower speed with better temps.


Just want to ask about your generall max temps. I will be using same combo 2x 360 GTX but I don't know if I should make push/pull for them or not. Please share your max GPU and CPU temps under load. At some average ambient, like 24C etc.

Thank you very much!


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Just want to ask about your generall max temps. I will be using same combo 2x 360 GTX but I don't know if I should make push/pull for them or not. Please share your max GPU and CPU temps under load. At some average ambient, like 24C etc.
> 
> Thank you very much!


If you looked at the data set I posted with my post you will see the numbers. As for push pull on the top that's gonna need slim fans or some modding. In all honestly, it's going to be a negligible difference. On gts 360 push/pull is rather pointless.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> If you looked at the data set I posted with my post you will see the numbers. As for push pull on the top that's gonna need slim fans or some modding. In all honestly, it's going to be a negligible difference. On gts 360 push/pull is rather pointless.


Thanks! I took a look at it- 56-62 C on GPU if I read that correct. Isn't that a bit high for a water cooling? I thought water cooling is suppose to be much better than air cooling.

Just asking since I have never had a water loop, been on air always but my OCed STRIX can hold 57-62 on air too with 70% fan speed. I know that noise is A LOT bigger than on water cooling but I want water loop for lower temps, not for silence.

Thanks!


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Thanks! I took a look at it- 56-62 C on GPU if I read that correct. Isn't that a bit high for a water cooling? I thought water cooling is suppose to be much better than air cooling.
> 
> Just asking since I have never had a water loop, been on air always but my OCed STRIX can hold 57-62 on air too with 70% fan speed. I know that noise is A LOT bigger than on water cooling but I want water loop for lower temps, not for silence.
> 
> Thanks!


You have to keep in mind this is 2ghz titans not 1080s and 1070s under an ambient of 30c at a constant higher load in sli


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> You have to keep in mind this is 2ghz titans not 1080s and 1070s under an ambient of 30c at a constant higher load in sli


So my single 1080 Ti should see lower temps at 22-25 ambient? 1080Ti also gets hot at above 2ghz (keeping mine at 2063 on air now).


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> So my single 1080 Ti should see lower temps at 22-25 ambient? 1080Ti also gets hot at above 2ghz (keeping mine at 2063 on air now).


Of course with those ambient and single card I would expect max temps to be mid to 40s.


----------



## alanthecelt

my ti at around 2063 rarely passes 50 gaming, could probably be a little lower if i were using more exotic paste


----------



## Benny89

Is *Mayhems Pre-Mix X1 Blood Red* a pastel red or clear red?


----------



## Sh3perd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Is *Mayhems Pre-Mix X1 Blood Red* a pastel red or clear red?


Blood red is a clear red that is supposed to be added to water.

I tried adding it to the white pastel extreme, but it turned out pink and gross.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sh3perd*
> 
> Blood red is a clear red that is supposed to be added to water.
> 
> I tried adding it to the white pastel extreme, but it turned out pink and gross.


But this is ready premix coolant 1000ml with all chems already in and dyed so nothing to add to water







. I wanna buy ready one.

I am looking for pastel red ready coolant but it seems both Mayhem and EK Blood Red coolants are not pastel reds then


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Of course with those ambient and single card I would expect max temps to be mid to 40s.


Actually....my 1080 hasn't seen over 44C running Heaven or Valley with a single 360GTS, fans at 850rpm with ambients in the 24C range.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Actually....my 1080 hasn't seen over 44C running Heaven or Valley with a single 360GTS, fans at 850rpm with ambients in the 24C range.


And from what I have heard you made it quite simple: 360 GTS top with just push, no case modding? And front also GTS 360 with just push, correct?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> And from what I have heard you made it quite simple: 360 GTS top with just push, no case modding? And front also GTS 360 with just push, correct?


That is with a single 360GTS mounted up top in push exhaust (as you have already seen, push/pull makes essentially no performance difference on a 360GTS), no case mods.


----------



## DarthBaggins

X1 = Clear and Colored

Pastel = Opaque fluid normally colored

XT1= Clear and colored options but capable of sub-zero temps


----------



## JFM98

http://imgur.com/mrtRm


Finished my loop but when I try to drain it, the water at the top and in the radiator is stuck. Anyone experienced this and know how I can get it out?

Thanks


----------



## Benny89

Anyone had a problem with Mayhem Paste coolants or in general with pastel coolants. I hear that they start to degenerate fast and leave stains and other bad thing inside your rads, tubes etc.

Basicelly that it is better to run clear dyed than pastel.

Can anyone confirm that?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Anyone had a problem with Mayhem Paste coolants or in general with pastel coolants. I hear that they start to degenerate fast and leave stains and other bad thing inside your rads, tubes etc.
> 
> Basicelly that it is better to run clear dyed than pastel.
> 
> Can anyone confirm that?


Many, many users can confirm that.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Many, many users can confirm that.


How do you clean rads, fiittings etc. later? Tubes can be replaced no problem.

Do one use some special sort of cleaning fluid designed for cleaning those sort of things?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> How do you clean rads, fiittings etc. later? Tubes can be replaced no problem.
> 
> Do one use some special sort of cleaning fluid designed for cleaning those sort of things?


I don't use pastels or colored fluid....because I'm not into stained and/or gunked up components. I'm sure Mayhems Blitz Pt. 2 would take care of it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

So far I've been sticking with EK Clear EVO coolant and it has been perfect. I have dyes to add if I ever want to but cleaning out dyes can be a PitA


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> So far I've been sticking with EK Clear EVO coolant and it has been perfect. I have dyes to add if I ever want to but cleaning out dyes can be a PitA


Same. But I use the Mayhems X1 since it is the same fluid without having to pay twice the price for an EK logo.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I only paid $8/ premix but I stocked up before I quit Microcenter lol


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> How do you clean rads, fiittings etc. later? Tubes can be replaced no problem.
> 
> Do one use some special sort of cleaning fluid designed for cleaning those sort of things?


I was worried about the same but people from the Mayhems thread explained to me how to prevent stains or gunk buildup when using Pastel. You can try asking in that thread


----------



## Paperchaser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> If you want the top cover that I had done *PM me*, and I'll give you the email of the guy who did it. I have no information on pricing or availability.
> 
> All I know is the following:
> 
> You would be shipping your original stock panel to him and he would cut it and ship it back. That is between $10-25 each way (location depending)
> My design is the default, but a custom one would be possible (likely an added cost)
> Mesh is likely not included unless specified (also extra) (easy to get online)
> For reference:


I WANT THIS!!! @Modmymod you guys sell this!?!?!?!?!


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paperchaser*
> 
> I WANT THIS!!! @Modmymod you guys sell this!?!?!?!?!


... "If you want the top cover that I had done *PM me*, and I'll give you the email of the guy who did it."...

Thought I was pretty clear...???


----------



## DarthBaggins

ModMyMods has the tops on their site/Store now too.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> ModMyMods has the tops on their site/Store now too.


Nice seeing this finally come to fruition. Good job community!


----------



## nycgtr

\
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> ModMyMods has the tops on their site/Store now too.


I've been using this top for a couple weeks. Well worth it imo.


----------



## EightCores

This build is not a beautiful work of art like many of those shown on this site. But, I do present a unique spin on including a pull fan on the AlphaCool 240 radiator. I had to cut a small part of the fan casing to get it to fit next to the water pump/reservoir. I like using the 240 like this to maximize fresh air intake.

I used a lot of XSPC fittings along with EKWB since I hand them left over from another build.

Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX
Motherboard: Asus Crosshair VI Hero
CPU: AMD 1800X
RAM: 4 x 16GB G.Skill F4-3200C14Q-64GTZSW
Graphics: MSI GTX 1080 Sea Hawk EK X
Cooling: EK-FB ASUS C6H RGB Monoblock - Nicke
EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
Radiators: EK-CoolStream PE 360
AlphaCool 240 at 25mm
FANS: 6 x Fractal Design Venturi HP PWM @120mm 1X140mm
PSU: EVGA 1000W G3
NVMe: Samsung 960 PRO 1TB
SSD: 2 Kingston 480GB
Wi-Fi: Asus PCE AC88


----------



## kfxsti

Not yet finished on the design . But so far temps are pretty good with this design


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> Not yet finished on the design . But so far temps are pretty good with this design


This is my 2nd favorite cut next to the honeycomb.


----------



## kfxsti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> This is my 2nd favorite cut next to the honeycomb.


Thanks !!
I actually am trying to get my hands on the hex punch outs for the knockout press which would give me the honeycomb. Also been playing with another idea while waiting on the other panels to come in .


Playing with carbon fiber vinyl wrap LOL


----------



## harrisonk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> Thanks !!
> I actually am trying to get my hands on the hex punch outs for the knockout press which would give me the honeycomb.


everything I've seen is pretty small, certainly not large enough for what we'd want for this style. I really like the look of the circle knockouts, but agree a hex shape would be even better. I'm guessing the best option for this size would be to use the circle knockout, and file the edges flat to make the hex design. If you do find something large enough though, please share with the group







It would be a GREAT alternative to breaking out the jigsaw.


----------



## kfxsti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *harrisonk*
> 
> everything I've seen is pretty small, certainly not large enough for what we'd want for this style. I really like the look of the circle knockouts, but agree a hex shape would be even better. I'm guessing the best option for this size would be to use the circle knockout, and file the edges flat to make the hex design. If you do find something large enough though, please share with the group
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would be a GREAT alternative to breaking out the jigsaw.


With the machine shop I have, I am able to get my hands on .5 inch hex to 2.5 inch hex. And the circle knockouts from 1/4 inch holes up 12inch holes lol. The Hex knock outs are being made by my dad and we are testing them sometime over the next two days. I'll keep everyone posted. We have also came up with a jig that allows us to turn the hole into squares or rectangles with an air grinder. Once I get that worked out like I want it. I will make the jig for the hex.


----------



## harrisonk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> With the machine shop I have...


yeah, that changes everything.

can't wait to see your results!


----------



## ikinsella

Hi everyone, I've been trying to plan out a custom loop in this case for awhile now and this thread -- while incredibly long -- is far and above the most helpful thing I've come across. This is my first water loop, so I was hoping I could get a bit of feedback and ask a few questions before committing. After doing quite a bit of reading here is what I have:

Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX - Galaxy Silver TG
Motherboard: MSI X99A XPower Gaming Titanium
CPU: Intel 6850K
RAM: 4 x 16GB G.Skill Trident Z DDR4-3200 - Silver/White
Graphics: MSI GTX 1080 Ti Sea Hawk EK X (One to start, planning on expanding to 2 or even 3)
NVMe: Samsung - 960 EVO 1TB M.2-2280
SSD: SanDisk - SSD PLUS 480GB
HDD: Western Digital - Red 4TB (buying this Phanteks bracket since I'll have to remove the other trays for the 360 gts in front)
PSU: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 1300W
GPU Block: Pre-installed w/ EK X
CPU Block: EK-Supremacy EVO X99 (can't decide between the plexi and full nickel here)
Pump: Deciding between EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM and EK-XRES 140 DDC 3.2 PWM Elite
Front Ventillation: HWL 360 GTS U-Flow w/ 3x Corsair ML120 - Push Intake
Top Ventillation: HWL 360 GTS U-Flow w/ 3x Corsair ML120 - Push Exhaust (planning to top mod the case for ventilation)
Rear Ventillation: RAIJINTEK - Aeolus a -BW, 140mm x 13mm - Deciding between Exhaust/Intake
Fan Controller: SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables
Tubing: Deciding between PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT 15.9 / 9.5mm - White 3m or EK-DuraClear 9.5/15.9mm 3m
Fittings: EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm (Black/Nickel to match components)

As far as the loop goes, I would like to arrange my components similarly to NYCGTR's build, but instead use soft tubing since that seems more beginner friendly. So here are the main questions I have been unable to settle:


I've heard the 2x U-Flow 360 GTS are quite restrictive and I eventually intend on running multiple GPU blocks. Will the d5 be sufficient given the amount of resistance in the loop or should I consider the DDC pump for its increased head pressure instead?
Earlier in the thread, someone mentioned that getting a g1/4" temp sensor to fit into the loop was a good idea. Does anyone have any recommendations for which ones to look at, whether the caps or throughput types are the best, and where they should be placed in the loop?
The EKWB configurator only recommends using their terminal blocks for multiple gpu's, however I have no desire to do so as I like the terminals that come on the 1080-Ti EK X's. Are there any issues I will run into using soft tubing and additional fittings to put multiple gpu blocks in a serial/parallel arrangement?
I've heard that using angled fittings is not necessary while using soft tubing, however I've seen it used in a few instances. For this particular setup do you think getting some 90 degree angled adapters would help with routing the tubes (i.e. off of the pump, in the basement, or on the blocks themselves?
How many extra fittings would you recommend buying so that I won't have to wait around for returns if some come leaky (I don't know whether this is a thing that happens commonly and would like to be prepared)?
What is the best way to mount the pump in this case (I would like it right behind the front radiator) so it doesn't push back too far and interfere with the gpu's and cable routing? Should I look at buying adapters like this or this from EK?
Are there any reason to prefer the ML120 Pro fans to the ML120 fans that come in the two-pack? I understand the only difference is the rubber corners, but I'm unaware of whether or not this makes a difference in performance.
Are there any other water cooling accessories/necessities that often go unmentioned that I am overlooking? I will be getting a 24 pin bridging plug and dyed coolant from EK and have a couple fill bottles laying around that I use while soldering.

Thanks a ton!


----------



## ikinsella

-- double post --


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> ModMyMods has the tops on their site/Store now too.


Price is a bit high but I understand
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikinsella*
> 
> Hi everyone, I've been trying to plan out a custom loop in this case for awhile now and this thread -- while incredibly long -- is far and above the most helpful thing I've come across. This is my first water loop, so I was hoping I could get a bit of feedback and ask a few questions before committing. After doing quite a bit of reading here is what I have:
> 
> Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX - Galaxy Silver TG
> Motherboard: MSI X99A XPower Gaming Titanium
> CPU: Intel 6850K
> RAM: 4 x 16GB G.Skill Trident Z DDR4-3200 - Silver/White
> Graphics: MSI GTX 1080 Ti Sea Hawk EK X (One to start, planning on expanding to 2 or even 3)
> NVMe: Samsung - 960 EVO 1TB M.2-2280
> SSD: SanDisk - SSD PLUS 480GB
> HDD: Western Digital - Red 4TB (buying this Phanteks bracket since I'll have to remove the other trays for the 360 gts in front)
> PSU: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 1300W
> GPU Block: Pre-installed w/ EK X
> CPU Block: EK-Supremacy EVO X99 (can't decide between the plexi and full nickel here)
> Pump: Deciding between EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM and EK-XRES 140 DDC 3.2 PWM Elite
> Front Ventillation: HWL 360 GTS U-Flow w/ 3x Corsair ML120 - Push Intake
> Top Ventillation: HWL 360 GTS U-Flow w/ 3x Corsair ML120 - Push Exhaust (planning to top mod the case for ventilation)
> Rear Ventillation: RAIJINTEK - Aeolus a -BW, 140mm x 13mm - Deciding between Exhaust/Intake
> Fan Controller: SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables
> Tubing: Deciding between PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT 15.9 / 9.5mm - White 3m or EK-DuraClear 9.5/15.9mm 3m
> Fittings: EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm (Black/Nickel to match components)
> 
> As far as the loop goes, I would like to arrange my components similarly to NYCGTR's build, but instead use soft tubing since that seems more beginner friendly. So here are the main questions I have been unable to settle:
> 
> I've heard the 2x U-Flow 360 GTS are quite restrictive and I eventually intend on running multiple GPU blocks. Will the d5 be sufficient given the amount of resistance in the loop or should I consider the DDC pump for its increased head pressure instead?
> Earlier in the thread, someone mentioned that getting a g1/4" temp sensor to fit into the loop was a good idea. Does anyone have any recommendations for which ones to look at, whether the caps or throughput types are the best, and where they should be placed in the loop?
> The EKWB configurator only recommends using their terminal blocks for multiple gpu's, however I have no desire to do so as I like the terminals that come on the 1080-Ti EK X's. Are there any issues I will run into using soft tubing and additional fittings to put multiple gpu blocks in a serial/parallel arrangement?
> I've heard that using angled fittings is not necessary while using soft tubing, however I've seen it used in a few instances. For this particular setup do you think getting some 90 degree angled adapters would help with routing the tubes (i.e. off of the pump, in the basement, or on the blocks themselves?
> How many extra fittings would you recommend buying so that I won't have to wait around for returns if some come leaky (I don't know whether this is a thing that happens commonly and would like to be prepared)?
> What is the best way to mount the pump in this case (I would like it right behind the front radiator) so it doesn't push back too far and interfere with the gpu's and cable routing? Should I look at buying adapters like this or this from EK?
> Are there any reason to prefer the ML120 Pro fans to the ML120 fans that come in the two-pack? I understand the only difference is the rubber corners, but I'm unaware of whether or not this makes a difference in performance.
> Are there any other water cooling accessories/necessities that often go unmentioned that I am overlooking? I will be getting a 24 pin bridging plug and dyed coolant from EK and have a couple fill bottles laying around that I use while soldering.
> 
> Thanks a ton!


Looks really solid to me. This config has worked for NYCGTR so I see no reason why it shouldn't work for you. Personally, I'd go D5 since it is quieter. Other than that, you may want to get a slim 140mm fan like NYC did (Cryogrig IIRC) for the rear (as intake). 90 degree rotary fittings are good to have. In terms or res mounting, I think you best bet to mounting to the radiator.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Considering you're paying for their time to produce plus a new top for the case it's a good price. Yes, you could probably source it all on your own for less, but again time spent would be against you (personal time comes at a price/ carries value)


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> Thanks !!
> I actually am trying to get my hands on the hex punch outs for the knockout press which would give me the honeycomb. Also been playing with another idea while waiting on the other panels to come in .
> 
> 
> Playing with carbon fiber vinyl wrap LOL


Carbon fiber vinyl is fun. It doesn't look like real CF but it still looks great.

After my ridiculous build, I have no blood, sweat, or tears left to modify my top cover which is why I'm hoping the honeycomb tops become orderable.


----------



## kfxsti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Carbon fiber vinyl is fun. It doesn't look like real CF but it still looks great.
> 
> After my ridiculous build, I have no blood, sweat, or tears left to modify my top cover which is why I'm hoping the honeycomb tops become orderable.


On the way to the shop to test the hex punchouts


----------



## harrisonk

So, I've started sketching out my plans for my top-vent mod on my Evolv mATX TG. I'd love some feedback.

The idea behind my design is to match up with the venting from the edges and carry it across the top. I've marked out what those vents would end up looking like. I plan to pick up some 4.5mm hex mesh to fill in the openings, painted gloss black. My mock up has the hex mess too large I think, but it gives a pretty good idea. I would swap out the mesh on the smaller vents on the sides with the matching mesh as well. The hex mesh would be backed by some foam filter material, as this vent will be a radiator intake.



This design cuts out the power button obviously, and I've got a pair of RGB anti-vandal switches that I want to mount in the front-most vent with a piece of black acrylic behind it. The acrylic would have the top most corners angled at the same as those seen on the edges of the top cover.



Curious what you guys think. My objectives are to create a mod I can build at home (without the need of cnc/waterjet) with my existing tools/skills, implement the power and reset buttons I have already, and obviously improve the airflow on my top (intake) radiator.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> On the way to the shop to test the hex punchouts


Can't wait to see the results!


----------



## Benny89

My wife called me that my whole EK water loop parts just came!! This will be a CRAZY weekend I tell you... Can't wait to get back home and just take a look at them


----------



## Benny89

It's like LEGO again


----------



## DarthBaggins

That would explain why it's so addictive, I know soon my son will be hooked on Legos my try for watercooling instead lol.


----------



## Benny89

Will I see any difference on HWL GTS 360 using 3xSP 120 High Performance fans vs ML 120 Pro Premium fans? Because I wonder if it is worth to switch for a top radiator in push config.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Will I see any difference on HWL GTS 360 using 3xSP 120 High Performance fans vs ML 120 Pro Premium fans? Because I wonder if it is worth to switch for a top radiator in push config.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Went from sps to mls. Noise wise yes, temp wise not really.


----------



## DarthBaggins

How are the ML's noise wise compare to the SP's (running SP PWM's)? I want to maintain cooling performance but drop in dB's, I've heard good things about the ML Pro's (twin packs are pretty inexpensive since I don't need LED fans)


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> How are the ML's noise wise compare to the SP's (running SP PWM's)? I want to maintain cooling performance but drop in dB's, I've heard good things about the ML Pro's (twin packs are pretty inexpensive since I don't need LED fans)


Pretty much inaudible sub 1100 rpm unless your in a very very quite room. You will notice it once its gone past 1200 rpm but the sps at 1200 sound like a jet engine.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Went from sps to mls. Noise wise yes, temp wise not really.


"Not really" meaning- not at all or not that much? Was there any temp difference?


----------



## Benny89

JayZTwoCents bashing on how bad for watercooling the Enthoo Evolv ATX case is and how bad his temps were.:


----------



## velocityx

yea just seen that,

im surprised he had temps so high, mine are much better

although I can't wait for phanteks to come up with evolv 2.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> JayZTwoCents bashing on how bad for watercooling the Enthoo Evolv ATX case is and how bad his temps were.:


Not surprising. I think at this point, since ModMyMods called up Phanteks and orderd like 30 top panels, Phanteks is aware of the issue. At least I hope so.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> "Not really" meaning- not at all or not that much? Was there any temp difference?


No real temp difference with gtx rads. Depending on your ambient if your fans are spinning quite fast it would help with the noise.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Not surprising. I think at this point, since ModMyMods called up Phanteks and orderd like 30 top panels, Phanteks is aware of the issue. At least I hope so.


As I think of it more and more, I kinda feel a little bad spending more just to get the top panel mod and is like close to half the price of the whole case.

The front panel is not really a problem to airflow, is it?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> JayZTwoCents bashing on how bad for watercooling the Enthoo Evolv ATX case is and how bad his temps were.:


To be fair this was kinda of an a DUHHHHH when you look at the case. He took no precaution to improve situations by using 45mm rads then did a temp solution of just running it with the side door off. So go figure?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> To be fair this was kinda of an a DUHHHHH when you look at the case. He took no precaution to improve situations by using 45mm rads then did a temp solution of just running it with the side door off. So go figure?


Par for the course for Jay. At this point Steve over at Gamer's Nexus is the only YouTuber actually worth 2 cents.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Par for the course for Jay. At this point Steve over at Gamer's Nexus is the only YouTuber actually worth 2 cents.


Steve name-drops Bullzoid which means he is probably in the inner circle of people who know what they are talking about.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> JayZTwoCents bashing on how bad for watercooling the Enthoo Evolv ATX case is and how bad his temps were.:


His lack of knowledge is blatantly obvious when at 3:52 into video he said the filter panel is magnetic mounted and we see how much effort it takes to come off. Again at 4:38 he didn't seal any of the mounting holes / slots in the radiator bracket.

Then he whines on and on about how much time he took building it only to have it not cool well. Even a blind builder with an IQ no higher than room temp in Fahrenheit would notice how little venting the top has and buld accordingly.

He stuffed some very hot equipement into a very small case because he was an idiot and now has his hissy fit about it. Almost even case has it's own set of limitatons .. including Phanteks. this only become more of an issue the smaller the case is. Those of us with a little experience know this and plan accordingly. Talking heads do not.


----------



## Benny89

Well, I only hope that I will be able to get good temps with my 2x 360 GTX this weekend







. I really do not want to have to mod top as it will cost me half the price of the whole case.

Seeing some other users results with their GTS rads without modding top I really hope I can also get that.


----------



## velocityx

ok so I built this setup last weekend.

Top PE360, front CE280.

1080ti FE temps while top and front panels off is 38-39 degrees in sunny outside weather. 50-52 deg with panels installed. For my particular setup it seems the front is more to blame for heating up. When I do the spacers mod on the front the temp drops to 45 on GPU. CPU is around 55 on load. Water temp however gets a bit hot at 45 degs celsius. I will probably be doing mods to both front and top.








Vents I closed off with black masking tape later on during my building process ( not in the photo )


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> ok so I built this setup last weekend.
> 
> Top PE360, front CE280.
> 
> 1080ti FE temps while top and front panels off is 38-39 degrees in sunny outside weather. 50-52 deg with panels installed. For my particular setup it seems the front is more to blame for heating up. When I do the spacers mod on the front the temp drops to 45 on GPU. CPU is around 55 on load. Water temp however gets a bit hot at 45 degs celsius. I will probably be doing mods to both front and top.
> 
> Vents I closed off with black masking tape later on during my building process ( not in the photo )


You can increase airflow by adding pull fans to the CE280 and move the pump to one of the two locations I installed a pump in my setup. You would need a shorter res tube, however.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> ok so I built this setup last weekend.
> 
> Top PE360, front CE280.
> 
> 1080ti FE temps while top and front panels off is 38-39 degrees in sunny outside weather. 50-52 deg with panels installed. For my particular setup it seems the front is more to blame for heating up. When I do the spacers mod on the front the temp drops to 45 on GPU. CPU is around 55 on load. Water temp however gets a bit hot at 45 degs celsius. I will probably be doing mods to both front and top.
> 
> Vents I closed off with black masking tape later on during my building process ( not in the photo )


Rear fan to intake, you already did the front panel mod, rest the top panel on the clips or go with the ModMyMods modded top cover mod. I have a cut top and extended front and don't see temps past water temps past 37c (<1200rpm fan speed) (I do have a P/P fat 360 though).


----------



## velocityx

im not gonna buy the modmymods panel because the pricing is ridiculous in my particular "case". 79 for the panel and 69 for shipping. I can buy a whole new evolv for that kind of money

im gonna find somebody or some small company that's gonna do it for me.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would say if you're state side then buy from them, outside of the US find your own means of doing what they have done.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> im not gonna buy the modmymods panel because the pricing is ridiculous in my particular "case". 79 for the panel and 69 for shipping. I can buy a whole new evolv for that kind of money
> 
> im gonna find somebody or some small company that's gonna do it for me.


Same for me. I would like to know what method did they use. I have an option to do cutting with water jet here. Wonder if that is good enough.

I want to cut it simple and install inside hole either this:

*Phobya grill 3x120 Hole Series black*



Or This

*DEMCiflex filtr Corsair 500R*


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Same for me. I would like to know what method did they use. I have an option to do cutting with water jet here. Wonder if that is good enough.
> 
> I want to cut it simple and install inside hole either this:
> 
> *Phobya grill 3x120 Hole Series black*
> 
> 
> 
> Or This
> 
> *DEMCiflex filtr Corsair 500R*


Word of caution on DEMCiflex filters. While they are pretty good filters, I've ordered two and both have come permanently wrinkled.


----------



## milkguru

Has anyone done any builds with the new TG mATX version of this case? Or anyone planning to?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *milkguru*
> 
> Has anyone done any builds with the new TG mATX version of this case? Or anyone planning to?


I have been wanting to get the mATX TG, which is why I joined this thread. I know I would plan on sending my top and front panel over to ModMyMods for them to modify it for me since I don't have the time to do it myself or track someone down that can.


----------



## harrisonk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *milkguru*
> 
> Has anyone done any builds with the new TG mATX version of this case? Or anyone planning to?


I'm in the process of my mATX TG build right now. It's up and running on air right now, with my loop going in (hopefully) this weekend. I'm still undecided on what i'm doing with the top/front panels for airflow, but I've got some ideas. I've confirmed with 3 different shops that offer waterjet cutting within a 15min drive of me... so it's just a matter of finalizing my design now.

check my build thread here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1631943/shadowtrooper-ryzen-phanteks-evolv-matx-tg-watercooled


----------



## hockeyboy1002

I actually sent my case to mod my mods recently to have some custom mods done to it. Bought the case off of Amazon and had it shipped straight to them. Some mods for airflow which include the top panel mod, a mod to have the extra slots in the rad bracket closed so hot air doesnt flow back down, and a mod so I can fit a fan ontop of the rad bracket between the top of the case. I also have a special mod being done that I'm leaving a surprise until it gets completed, and will post pictures once it is









With all that being said I am unsure of how to build the rig, mainly with radiators and fans. I will have all the fans with a temp sensor to control the fan curves. However, I am unsure of what fans and rad setup would be ideal. I thought about running 2x hardware labs gts with noiseblocker pl-2 but I'm unsure if that will be enough for keeping the PC cool. I plan on running a 1080ti kingpin when it comes out. The processor I'm unsure about. I am looking at a Ryzen 7 1800x with a Corsair hero VI, or a 7700k delid with a maximus IX extreme (has full cover block and a heatsink for the m.2 (960 pro, 256gb), or possibly even threadripper or x299 once they come out. What would be the best radiator and fan combo for this build while getting good cooling but not having it sound like a jet engine? For reference, I currently have a 900d with 2x alphacool monsta 480mm radiators and sp120s, and I don't find the sound to be too bad once I have my headphones on.


----------



## DarthBaggins

really a 360 rad would be enough but for headroom you could run a 240 rad as well (would leave ample room for OC on GPU and CPU)


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hockeyboy1002*
> 
> I actually sent my case to mod my mods recently to have some custom mods done to it. Bought the case off of Amazon and had it shipped straight to them. Some mods for airflow which include the top panel mod, a mod to have the extra slots in the rad bracket closed so hot air doesnt flow back down, and a mod so I can fit a fan ontop of the rad bracket between the top of the case. I also have a special mod being done that I'm leaving a surprise until it gets completed, and will post pictures once it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With all that being said I am unsure of how to build the rig, mainly with radiators and fans. I will have all the fans with a temp sensor to control the fan curves. However, I am unsure of what fans and rad setup would be ideal. I thought about running 2x hardware labs gts with noiseblocker pl-2 but I'm unsure if that will be enough for keeping the PC cool. I plan on running a 1080ti kingpin when it comes out. The processor I'm unsure about. I am looking at a Ryzen 7 1800x with a Corsair hero VI, or a 7700k delid with a maximus IX extreme (has full cover block and a heatsink for the m.2 (960 pro, 256gb), or possibly even threadripper or x299 once they come out. What would be the best radiator and fan combo for this build while getting good cooling but not having it sound like a jet engine? For reference, I currently have a 900d with 2x alphacool monsta 480mm radiators and sp120s, and I don't find the sound to be too bad once I have my headphones on.


every review out there shows the x299 cpus running overly hot. Intel cheapened out this round big time. I would wait if you could some more to see if threadrppier is a viable option. Rumor has it, prices will be cheap. All solid choices too, on the rads if you don't need to spend i wouldn't spend anymore, but if you're going that route i say go with the nemesis gts from hardware labs. I have ek, a/c as well as xspc and the nemesis gts although more restrictive, they perform admirably especially with low speed fans.


----------



## hockeyboy1002

I have an ek pump res combo that would be controlling the water. I wouldn't mind having it quieter, But I would still like to get some low temps. Do you know how the ml120 would work with the gts?


----------



## hockeyboy1002

what would you recommend as a fan for the hardwarelabs gts? or since i'm going ryzen 7 and a 1080ti kingpin when they come out will that cooling not be enough and should I get an alphacool st30 and a higher rpm fan. I'm not too worried about the noise, just want good performance and I will ahve the front of the case modded for airflow in and the top modded for airflow out.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hockeyboy1002*
> 
> what would you recommend as a fan for the hardwarelabs gts? or since i'm going ryzen 7 and a 1080ti kingpin when they come out will that cooling not be enough and should I get an alphacool st30 and a higher rpm fan. I'm not too worried about the noise, just want good performance and I will ahve the front of the case modded for airflow in and the top modded for airflow out.


GTS are very good for this case since it doesn't have that good airflow but GTS are slim enough so it doesn't really matter that much.

I have my 2x HWL 360 GTS waiting to be installed but I am waiting for my Corsair ML120 Pro Premium fans to arrive, since I had to order them from Corsair shop.

I recommend either ML120 Pro Premium, Gentle Typhoon if you have anyway to get them or EK Vardars. I went with ML120 Premium since I already have 4 of them and they are very quite and perform really good. GTs are no-go in my country and EK Vardars are waay too lound for me.

That is just my recommendation. I will doing push/pull front 360 GTS and Push top 360 GTS. Push/Pull mostly for the looks really.


----------



## hockeyboy1002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hockeyboy1002*
> 
> what would you recommend as a fan for the hardwarelabs gts? or since i'm going ryzen 7 and a 1080ti kingpin when they come out will that cooling not be enough and should I get an alphacool st30 and a higher rpm fan. I'm not too worried about the noise, just want good performance and I will ahve the front of the case modded for airflow in and the top modded for airflow out.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> GTS are very good for this case since it doesn't have that good airflow but GTS are slim enough so it doesn't really matter that much.
> 
> I have my 2x HWL 360 GTS waiting to be installed but I am waiting for my Corsair ML120 Pro Premium fans to arrive, since I had to order them from Corsair shop.
> 
> I recommend either ML120 Pro Premium, Gentle Typhoon if you have anyway to get them or EK Vardars. I went with ML120 Premium since I already have 4 of them and they are very quite and perform really good. GTs are no-go in my country and EK Vardars are waay too lound for me.
> 
> That is just my recommendation. I will doing push/pull front 360 GTS and Push top 360 GTS. Push/Pull mostly for the looks really.


I was looking at the ML120, NB pl-2, silent wings 3, or noctua redux. Should I be worried about having the fans at too high of an rpm? The three on the front and top would each by plugged into their own darkside modding 3 into 1 then the 1 would be plugged into my aquaero 6 which would be controlling everything. my front would be push in, and my top would be pulling out


----------



## paskowitz

I second the ML's. Their noise profile up to 1000rpm is really good. 700-900rpm is the sweet spot for noise/performance ratio. The two pack helps the price to performance ratio (weakest aspect of the fan). I have 2x140MLs on my GTS 280 Xflow and 6x 120MLs on my 360 GTR. Most of the time the only thing I can hear is my pump.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I second the ML's. Their noise profile up to 1000rpm is really good. 700-900rpm is the sweet spot for noise/performance ratio. The two pack helps the price to performance ratio (weakest aspect of the fan). I have 2x140MLs on my GTS 280 Xflow and 6x 120MLs on my 360 GTR. Most of the time the only thing I can hear is my pump.


+1 for the ML's excellent fans but a bit pricey


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hockeyboy1002*
> 
> what would you recommend as a fan for the hardwarelabs gts? or since i'm going ryzen 7 and a 1080ti kingpin when they come out will that cooling not be enough and should I get an alphacool st30 and a higher rpm fan. I'm not too worried about the noise, just want good performance and I will ahve the front of the case modded for airflow in and the top modded for airflow out.


The Phanteks PH-F120MP is a very good fan and not very expensive.


----------



## Benny89

I remember someone was posting some easy to do mod for front panel so it has more space between it and fans. But I can't find now









Can anyone help me with finding it? Or who posted it?


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigRed1987*
> 
> Hi Folks
> 
> Thanks to all the info in this thread i decided on the Enthoo Evolv ATX case and what to do with it.
> 
> I figured id add a few photos to show what I've done and hopefully it can help others also.
> 
> At work we have a water jet cutter (not something available to everyone but what i used).
> 
> Materials
> 
> Aluminium perforated sheet (Ebay)
> 
> Black spray paint (Plastikote)
> 
> Metal Epoxy Glue.
> 
> .............................................................
> The drawing office kindly set this up for me to use with the water cutter. (Sizes may help others do the same)
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/IMG_5987.jpg.html
> 
> The water jet cut out the holes
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/F6FB3C21-83A3-4285-86BE-967FD47A2303.jpg.html
> 
> Sanded the edges lightly
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/IMG_5991.jpg.html
> 
> Sprayed my perforated sheet black
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/2A2B2DAB-B6FB-489D-9457-000ECF973BC6.jpg.html
> 
> Trial fitted it all using double sided sticky tape
> 
> Glued the perforated sheet in place.
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/621780F1-55B6-4A0C-98B0-F60A8062D9EC.jpg.html
> 
> Masked it all off and sprayed the perforated sheet and cut edges to blend it all in.
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/827D7A21-D598-45E1-A1E8-A8E674F737DD.jpg.html
> 
> http://s19.photobucket.com/user/tom_penny555/media/IMG_6021.jpg.html
> 
> Also for others wanting to know Phanteks were very helpful and reasonable in providing a spare top cover. (I live in Scotland and wanted a spare in case this all went horribly wrong.)
> 
> "The top panel for the Enthoo Evolv ATX AG would cost €30,- including shipping. If you agree, we will prepare the payment details to process your request.
> 
> Best,
> Phanteks Team"
> 
> SIDE NOTE: For masking off the top radiator section and holes (suggested earlier in the thread) I found Aluminium tape very easy to use. Minimal mess and hassle.


Just wanted to say- thanks for meassures here. It will make easier to use Water Jet when I already have precise sizes on paper.

I also have found 2 mm per 2,5 space aluminium hexagonal mesh so I it also covered. What did you use to attach mesh to panel? Some sort of super glue?

This mod looks very easy to made and cheap if you have access to some water jet service. It also looks elegant.

What was your temp difference after that mod?


----------



## springs113

It had something to do with using mobo standoffs. The center pin with no screw holes i believe.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> It had something to do with using mobo standoffs. The center pin with no screw holes i believe.


Thanks for helping ofc but I have no idea what you mean


----------



## BigRed1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Just wanted to say- thanks for meassures here. It will make easier to use Water Jet when I already have precise sizes on paper.
> 
> I also have found 2 mm per 2,5 space aluminium hexagonal mesh so I it also covered. What did you use to attach mesh to panel? Some sort of super glue?
> 
> This mod looks very easy to made and cheap if you have access to some water jet service. It also looks elegant.
> 
> What was your temp difference after that mod?


No problem glad its of use to others.

I used a metal epoxy glue this one if memory serves (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Super-Glue-15212-Metal-Adhesive/dp/B000FW7VPA/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1498743872&sr=8-8&keywords=metal+epoxy)
One tip is a little goes a long way and you want to keep it as neat as possible for the best finish. Obvious I know but i had a few glue blobs i had to sort out after that could have been avoided with a little more care.

The temp difference i couldn't give an exact value. Thanks to this forum i was aware of the issues before i even bought the case and started modding it before i built in it. i can say tho before i finished the cut outs the top panel used to get uncomfortable to touch.
The cut outs and mesh have made a massive difference in that regard.


----------



## Benny89

I have a question regarding those who have HWL GTS 360. I want to do push pull but there are only 12x screws inside package. Didn't think of that earlier. They are if my memory serves well M4 x 28 mm. Of course I can't find anywhere such screws...

I have however long screws from H105 Corsair and from Phanteks case screw package. Anyone know if they will wrok and do not damage rad?

Why do they not include 24 long screws... So many people do push-pulls.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> I have a question regarding those who have HWL GTS 360. I want to do push pull but there are only 12x screws inside package. Didn't think of that earlier. They are if my memory serves well M4 x 28 mm. Of course I can't find anywhere such screws...
> 
> I have however long screws from H105 Corsair and from Phanteks case screw package. Anyone know if they will wrok and do not damage rad?
> 
> Why do they not include 24 long screws... So many people do push-pulls.


HWL rads do have a stop plate protecting the fins, but you can still bend that and damage the fins if the screw is way too long. I am pretty sure PPCs sells extra screws for HWL rads. Also try MNPCTech. If the later doesn't have the exactly length, I am sure Bill could cut some for you.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> HWL rads do have a stop plate protecting the fins, but you can still bend that and damage the fins if the screw is way too long. I am pretty sure PPCs sells extra screws for HWL rads. Also try MNPCTech. If the later doesn't have the exactly length, I am sure Bill could cut some for you.


If only I were in USA I would







But thanks anyway. As long as they have plates I can use washers to match 28mm length with my 30mm lenght screws I think.

Wish PC modding was as popular in EU. We could use sties my Mymods or MNPC here.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> If only I were in USA I would
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But thanks anyway. As long as they have plates I can use washers to match 28mm length with my 30mm lenght screws I think.
> 
> Wish PC modding was as popular in EU. We could use sties my Mymods or MNPC here.


the washers are fine that's what i did or you can also use the little 6mm length ones and screw the fans from the underside using a thing screw driver to do it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> I have a question regarding those who have HWL GTS 360. I want to do push pull but there are only 12x screws inside package. Didn't think of that earlier. They are if my memory serves well M4 x 28 mm. Of course I can't find anywhere such screws...
> 
> I have however long screws from H105 Corsair and from Phanteks case screw package. Anyone know if they will wrok and do not damage rad?
> 
> Why do they not include 24 long screws... So many people do push-pulls.


I know others have already told you this, but I will point it out again - there is no benefit of running a GTS push/pull. None. Zero. Nada. Zip.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> I have a question regarding those who have HWL GTS 360. I want to do push pull but there are only 12x screws inside package. Didn't think of that earlier. They are if my memory serves well M4 x 28 mm. Of course I can't find anywhere such screws...
> 
> I have however long screws from H105 Corsair and from Phanteks case screw package. Anyone know if they will wrok and do not damage rad?
> 
> Why do they not include 24 long screws... So many people do push-pulls.


0 benefit and I have those rads.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I know others have already told you this, but I will point it out again - there is no benefit of running a GTS push/pull. None. Zero. Nada. Zip.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> 0 benefit and I have those rads.


Guys, I am 100% aware of that! I am just doing push/pull for front fan just for the looks. To fill space between rad and pump. Because I like when everything is packed up







. I hate unused visible splace. I know it will make close to 0% difference but it also won't do any harm for front rad. It just for the looks. The top rad will be only push.

So no worries, I remember your tips and infos on this


----------



## hockeyboy1002

Where do you have each radiator? I order a red gts and it came and the red looks stunning, I will end up trying to color match the fluid to it. Do you think i can get away with a gtx in the front and a gts up top? (the case is getting modded so that i can fit the fans between the top and the radiator bracket), and i have a pump/res combo from ek to mount on the front rad.


----------



## nycgtr

nvm


----------



## Benny89

FIRST DAY OF MY FIST WATER LOOP:

Well, I will be honest. I was about to just return everything and to hell with whole water loop. Squezing everything inside this case without modding it is PAIN-IN-THE-ASS.

I manged to somehow squeeze fron and top rads with front push-pull ML120 Pros and top with push ML120 Pros.

Using those fans gives you ABSOLUTELY ZERO SPACE between top front rad pull fan and top first push fan. I had to use force and squeezing to make them be next to each other. I could basicely not screw top panel because it was being held by the pressure of squeeze itself







. I have mounted fans, rads and Pump plus res. Valve at the bottom. Also put tape over holes in top mounting bracket.

DAY 1:



Everything was absolutely a pain.... But somehow I manged to do that.

Rest tomorrow. I had drink a lot of vodka after that so I won't touch it any more today. Tomorrow GPU and CPU plus destiled water test and if there is no leak- flush it out and coolant in.

Question- when you flush out a fluid through valve- pump should running to help flush it out or not?


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> FIRST DAY OF MY FIST WATER LOOP:
> 
> Well, I will be honest. I was about to just return everything and to hell with whole water loop. Squezing everything inside this case without modding it is PAIN-IN-THE-ASS.
> 
> I manged to somehow squeeze fron and top rads with front push-pull ML120 Pros and top with push ML120 Pros.
> 
> Using those fans gives you ABSOLUTELY ZERO SPACE between top front rad pull fan and top first push fan. I had to use force and squeezing to make them be next to each other. I could basicely not screw top panel because it was being held by the pressure of squeeze itself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have mounted fans, rads and Pump plus res. Valve at the bottom. Also put tape over holes in top mounting bracket.
> 
> DAY 1:
> 
> 
> 
> Everything was absolutely a pain.... But somehow I manged to do that.
> 
> Rest tomorrow. I had drink a lot of vodka after that so I won't touch it any more today. Tomorrow GPU and CPU plus destiled water test and if there is no leak- flush it out and coolant in.
> 
> Question- when you flush out a fluid through valve- pump should running to help flush it out or not?


I've read you really don't want to do that. It runs the risk of running the pump dry which is a no no.

Fill it, drain it, repeat.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> FIRST DAY OF MY FIST WATER LOOP:
> 
> Well, I will be honest. I was about to just return everything and to hell with whole water loop. Squezing everything inside this case without modding it is PAIN-IN-THE-ASS.
> 
> I manged to somehow squeeze fron and top rads with front push-pull ML120 Pros and top with push ML120 Pros.
> 
> Using those fans gives you ABSOLUTELY ZERO SPACE between top front rad pull fan and top first push fan. I had to use force and squeezing to make them be next to each other. I could basicely not screw top panel because it was being held by the pressure of squeeze itself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have mounted fans, rads and Pump plus res. Valve at the bottom. Also put tape over holes in top mounting bracket.
> 
> DAY 1:
> 
> 
> 
> Everything was absolutely a pain.... But somehow I manged to do that.
> 
> Rest tomorrow. I had drink a lot of vodka after that so I won't touch it any more today. Tomorrow GPU and CPU plus destiled water test and if there is no leak- flush it out and coolant in.
> 
> Question- when you flush out a fluid through valve- pump should running to help flush it out or not?


Which is why many members here recommend you against going push/pull but you wanted that for the looks and now you're suffering the consequence. I know you've been following this thread for quite a while and I'm surprised that you still didn't take into consideration going minimal with this case.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> FIRST DAY OF MY FIST WATER LOOP:
> 
> Well, I will be honest. I was about to just return everything and to hell with whole water loop. Squezing everything inside this case without modding it is PAIN-IN-THE-ASS.
> 
> I manged to somehow squeeze fron and top rads with front push-pull ML120 Pros and top with push ML120 Pros.
> 
> Using those fans gives you ABSOLUTELY ZERO SPACE between top front rad pull fan and top first push fan. I had to use force and squeezing to make them be next to each other. I could basicely not screw top panel because it was being held by the pressure of squeeze itself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have mounted fans, rads and Pump plus res. Valve at the bottom. Also put tape over holes in top mounting bracket.
> 
> DAY 1:
> 
> 
> 
> Everything was absolutely a pain.... But somehow I manged to do that.
> 
> Rest tomorrow. I had drink a lot of vodka after that so I won't touch it any more today. Tomorrow GPU and CPU plus destiled water test and if there is no leak- flush it out and coolant in.
> 
> Question- when you flush out a fluid through valve- pump should running to help flush it out or not?


Wow that looks really cramped, why would you push pull on the front radiator when the radiator is not thick enough to gain anything plus the extra noise of 3 fans that do nothing? Makes no sense


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Wow that looks really cramped, why would you push pull on the front radiator when the radiator is not thick enough to gain anything plus the extra noise of 3 fans that do nothing? Makes no sense


If you read his recent previous post, he wanted it merely for "the looks".


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> If you read his recent previous post, he wanted it merely for "the looks".


Well each to their own I guess but personally the extra noise and expense for no extra performance just is not worth it.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Well each to their own I guess but personally the extra noise and expense for no extra performance just is not worth it.


I completely agree, to each their own. I was just baffled by the fact that he was seemed surprised after the build considering that he frequents this thread a lot.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I completely agree, to each their own. I was just baffled by the fact that he was seemed surprised after the build considering that he frequents this thread a lot.


Seems quite odd to me that questions get asked and then he gets the answers but doesn't listen to the answers, if you aren't going to listen to people that have more experience in a given area then why ask?


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I completely agree, to each their own. I was just baffled by the fact that he was seemed surprised after the build considering that he frequents this thread a lot.


Becasue I have seen it done in other build ad there was a space like 2 mm between fans. But those were Noctua Industrial fans. So I guess there is this 1-3 mm difference between how thick are those fans compare to ML120, which in my case made have no room at all.

Well, can't say it was easy but hey- if in the end you had what you want and if that works (I hope) it won't be that bad.

We will see testing today.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Seems quite odd to me that questions get asked and then he gets the answers but doesn't listen to the answers, if you aren't going to listen to people that have more experience in a given area then why ask?


Becasue as I said I saw it done and that it will fit without much hassle. BUT! It turned out that those fans seems to be thicker and so is the difference:

Here is the build I am talking about:



http://imgur.com/cAFmT


I listed to people answers here and tips, hence why I did not do push/pull in top. I just like visually when case is full.

Some people install LCD panels inside case, toys, some other stuff just for the look. Nobody complains. I just wanted to fill that empty space between rad and pump and everybody loose their mind


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Well each to their own I guess but personally the extra noise and expense for no extra performance just is not worth it.


And the extra hassle of the installation, and needing to control three more ML series fans and you can't even use the hub since they are ML.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Becasue I have seen it done in other build


And if you saw someone jump off the Brooklyn Bridge would you follow?









I know I have said it a number of times in the Phanteks case thread, and I am pretty sure I had mentioned it to you here - had you used a 280 in the front rather than a 360, you could have done push/pull easily, the rads would have lined up front to back for a cleaner look, the visual "rad all around look" stays in tact since the bottom of the 280 is below the midplate and you would have had no performance loss. That said, you would have had to enlarge the opening in the midplate if you wanted to use a GTS.


----------



## Benny89

D
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> And the extra hassle of the installation, and needing to control three more ML series fans and you can't even use the hub since they are ML.
> And if you saw someone jump off the Brooklyn Bridge would you follow?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I have said it a number of times in the Phanteks case thread, and I am pretty sure I had mentioned it to you here - had you used a 280 in the front rather than a 360, you could have done push/pull easily, the rads would have lined up front to back for a cleaner look, the visual "rad all around look" stays in tact since the bottom of the 280 is below the midplate and you would have had no performance loss. That said, you would have had to enlarge the opening in the midplate if you wanted to use a GTS.


I am well aware of that. But in the end- I manged to put them inside somehow so no big deal. It wasn't as easy as "just slide it and its good" but more like "you will get in there or I will destroy you!"







but in the end- they are there together and imo it looks really good.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> D
> I am well aware of that. But in the end- I manged to put them inside somehow so no big deal. It wasn't as easy as "just slide it and its good" but more like "you will get in there or I will destroy you!"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but in the end- they are there together and imo it looks really good.


I have a similar setup in my Evolv ATX, but with more radiator space crammed into the case. After 5 months, I've grown tired of the red corners on the ML140 fans and may paint them black next time I disassemble the rig.


----------



## Benny89

Uff, 3 hours of destiled water test- no leaks, nothing rattling, nothing broke. Everything is fine. A lot if air bubles but that to be expected.

Question- did you install this anti-vortex foam? In guide it says its optional because EK D5 140 comes with preinstalled anti-cyclone so I did not install it.

BOth rads and fans are working great, nothing is interfering with anything.

Made few test on destiled water only to check how its going- 45 mn CPU stress test via AIDA 64 game max 54C and 40 min of Heaven Benchmark (stock 1080 Ti, only max power limit and voltage) gave 35C

That is with case WHOLE open from every side so I do not expect such results later before I mod top.

Now I will take a break, then flush out destiled water and fill loop with coolant.

2,5 days of work. God, what a hobby....


----------



## Benny89

I know that many thing could have been done better by pros but this is my first water loop ever. Used soft tubing (and glad I did...) and EK Cryo Fuel. 2x HWL 360 GTX with ML120 Pro Premium. All water cool parts are EK.





Mission complete.

Resuls: Ambient temp 21C. Top cover lies without pressing, both glass panels on, front panel on.

2 hours of playing Witcher 3 on Ultra, 1440p ąround 100 fps (CPU 1.365V and GPU with 1.6V at 2063/6009).

Max CPU temp: 58-61C
Max GPU Temp: 38-39C.
Idle CPU: 29-31C
Idle GPU: 24C

For a first timer I am pretty pleased with results.

Fans are 50% during load and 30% iddle. Paste used: Grizzly Kryonaut.


----------



## alanthecelt

i finally got around to setting up my aquaero 5
1 ambient air sensor in front panel (going to add a second tonight in top panel) and one coolant sensor (cpu, rad 1, res, pump, sensor, rad 2, gpu, cpu)
all fans controlled as one at the moment (going to split out the 120's and 140's tonight into 2)
set up a profile that seems to work
gaming i get 3.5 delta, with the gpu sitting mid 40's, mining (full gpu load) i get a delta of around 6 deg c, with the gpu hitting 51 degrees
fans run from 400 ish rpm at ambient, to about 7-800 gaming, and closer to a 1000 at full load.
the fans become audible just before 700, so if i can experiment with the 140 and 120's separately to see if i can tweak a few less rpm out of one or the other i will be happy.

Had planned to put multiple coolant sensors and a flow sensor in... but... i had enough of dismantling the loop.

After seeing everyone's temps and knowing my loop temp is good, i wish i had gone for better compound than the ek provided stuff


----------



## kevindd992002

Will using an E-ATX board in this case be considered "cramping up" the case?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Will using an E-ATX board in this case be considered "cramping up" the case?


EATX boards with a backplate will not fit without modding. Neither will really wide EATX boards. I don't think it will be "cramped" but it will likely not be "ideal", as the grommets would have to be removed and the mobo cables would be tight.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> EATX boards with a backplate will not fit without modding. Neither will really wide EATX boards. I don't think it will be "cramped" but it will likely not be "ideal", as the grommets would have to be removed and the mobo cables would be tight.


Yeah, just as I thought. Thanks for the confirmation


----------



## alanthecelt

Added a second ambient air temp to my aquaero.... one in top panel and one in front panel
both rads are intakes... after a few minutes, the top cover area rises a few degrees, even with my own vent...
might try the modmymods lid.... if uk shipping isn't too bad


----------



## Medusa666

Hi guys,

Does anyone know if the new MSI GTX 1080Ti Lightning Z will fit into the mATX version of Evolv with TG?

The case specifications says max length is 319mm, but the card is 320mm.



Thanks!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanthecelt*
> 
> Added a second ambient air temp to my aquaero.... one in top panel and one in front panel
> both rads are intakes... after a few minutes, the top cover area rises a few degrees, even with my own vent...
> might try the modmymods lid.... if uk shipping isn't too bad


Just a curiousity question, but how is all the airflow potential of your 2x 140mm fans on 280 radiator and 3x 120mm fans on 360 radiator supposed to exhaust out of your case?

*How airflow works*
*Airflow is simply displacement; for air to come into case, air must be leaving case .. or .. for air to leave the case, air must be coming into case.*
Think of the air around us as water and we are divers in it and a sunken van is a computer case.

We can't move more water into the van (case) through an open window (vent) unless we have another open window (vent) somewhere else in the van (case) moving the same amount of water (air) out through a window on other side of van (case).
We can't take any water out of van unless we have the same amount of water coming in at the same time.
This means we have to have as many open windows flowing water into van as we have open windows flowing water out.
This is exactly how airflow works. Intake fan pushing / flowing air into case is pushing / flowing the same amount of air out of case.
Adding an exhaust fan can help case airflow, same as adding a back fan on some coolers.
But with good case intake fans we don't need exhaust fans, same as good cooler / radiator fans don't need pull fans.








This is why I used to always change stock intake fans. Now some cases are finally coming with intake fans that have high enough pressure ratings to not need 'helper' (exhaust) fans.








P400 has the airflow potential vent area (window in van) for 3x 120 / 2x 140mm top fans 2x 140 / 120mm front fans and 1x 120mm back fan. So you have 1x 120mm back vent for exhaust .. and even if we are generous and say you have other vent area equal to 1x 140mm fan, you still only have 1x 120 & 1x 140mm exhaust area for the 3x 120 and 2x 140mm intakes you are using .. meaning your case can only flow less than half as much air as what the intakes are designed to flow.


----------



## Benny89

EDIT: never mind


----------



## Granpa

First time fixing up a wc loop.


----------



## alanthecelt

quote:
Just a curiousity question, but how is all the airflow potential of your 2x 140mm fans on 280 radiator and 3x 120mm fans on 360 radiator supposed to exhaust out of your case?

right ok
so top and front fans are intakes
rear is exhaust
Airflow in to the case will be impeded by resistance around the fans, ie intake venting, or radiator fins.. likewise air flow will be restricted by positive pressure inside the case
being as fans can create positive pressure, this will only be an issue if the pressure inside the case is greater than the pressure the fans are creating at that particular speed
more pressure inside = more resistance to incoming air and therefore reduced flow and cooling
so
firstly how much pressure can we create inside a pc case? vs how much naturally "leaks out or is assisted by exhaust fans

i guess if all intake fans are spinning at full speed we might start encountering issues, but in my situation.. no where near
top fans run 650-800 under normal conditions
fronts might get to a 1000 rpm under worse case
rear pretty much just sits at 600

so
my top area of the case does get a 3 degree rise over ambient, this immediately drops off with me lifting the lid, as you would imagine. front has no issues, so i can summise that under normal operating conditions, the front radiator is passing air nicely (low fpi) the top radiator flow could be improved as air is stagnating in the lid. this could be by the positive pressure pushing up into the lid (most of it is blocked off but not 100%)
i can run the same experiments again with the exhaust on full speed, that would confirm if i need additional venting in the lid, or otherwise

that being said.. the whole setup is near silent under normal gaming conditions, with nothing but a 3-4 degree delta
but it could be better, if the top radiator had access to a little more cool air it would operate better, and therefore reduce the front fans a little


----------



## Kostadinos

My 2K Gaming Beast is ready

Specs: CPU : Intel Core I7-7700K 4.2Ghz , Mobo : MSI Z170A Mpower Gaming Titanium Edition , RAM : G.Skill TridentZ RGB 16GB DDR4-3200MHz , PSU : EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G3 , GPU : EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 FTW Case: Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Tempered Glass OS: OCZ Trion 150 240GB , Storage: Western Digital HDD 1TB 3.5'' 64MB SATA3 , Watercooling from NZXT Kraken X52


----------



## viperguy212

Anyone mount an aquaero in their Evolv?

I'm looking for somewhere to place mine in my case that doesn't involve drilling holes. I'm thinking maybe double sided tape or Velcro.


----------



## Granpa

I have one. Depending on the PSU that you have, I was able to squeeze one resting on the floor at the gap between the PSU and the back glass panel. I did have to add motherboard spacers to the aquaero to prop it up so it rests on the floor of the case.


----------



## alanthecelt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Granpa*
> 
> I have one. Depending on the PSU that you have, I was able to squeeze one resting on the floor at the gap between the PSU and the back glass panel. I did have to add motherboard spacers to the aquaero to prop it up so it rests on the floor of the case.


that is 100% exactly were mine is too







kinda sat at an angle between the glass and psu


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> Anyone mount an aquaero in their Evolv?
> 
> I'm looking for somewhere to place mine in my case that doesn't involve drilling holes. I'm thinking maybe double sided tape or Velcro.


This link might give you some ideas where to mount an aquaero in the evolve


----------



## viperguy212

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> This link might give you some ideas where to mount an aquaero in the evolve


Haha I deeply considered this approach but the thought of draining my loop again and modding the case more so then it already is seemed too cumbersome at this point in time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanthecelt*
> 
> that is 100% exactly were mine is too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> kinda sat at an angle between the glass and psu


I'll check this space out though. I have a EVGA G2 850 in there so there should be some room.

Thanks!


----------



## v4npro

Just a quick clarification, the stock fans on this case are ph-f140mp and not ph-f140sp, correct? The website states SP but support tells me they are MP now(which is what I got).


----------



## petmic10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v4npro*
> 
> Just a quick clarification, the stock fans on this case are ph-f140mp and not ph-f140sp, correct? The website states SP but support tells me they are MP now(which is what I got).


That's correct. I think they made the change a couple of months ago to the mp version.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v4npro*
> 
> Just a quick clarification, the stock fans on this case are ph-f140mp and not ph-f140sp, correct? The website states SP but support tells me they are MP now(which is what I got).


They are actually th SP motor with MP blades, oddly enough.


----------



## v4npro

Ok thanks.


----------



## oO-Waschbaer-Oo

guys







i got something for ya







made by Gozumods







https://www.facebook.com/gosumodz


----------



## alanthecelt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> They are actually th SP motor with MP blades, oddly enough.


the Phanteks naming is confusing
i "think" the fans supplied with mine ,were the higher blade count more suited to static pressure applications


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *petmic10*
> 
> That's correct. I think they made the change a couple of months ago to the mp version.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> They are actually th SP motor with MP blades, oddly enough.


I think they are basically what ciarlatano said, but I've been trying to get Phanteks to tell me exactly what model their model number and specification are for a year now and still don't know. Very strange how a company that has produced some great cases and fans, now GPU water block and H2O fittings hasn't put a model number on a fan with no specifications listed and supplied in cases that are still being advertised as having PH-F140SP fans for over a year now.


----------



## harrisonk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oO-Waschbaer-Oo*
> 
> guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i got something for ya
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> made by Gozumods
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/gosumodz
> 
> 
> 
> ...


dude, that looks awesome! would love some details on the screen mesh used. I've held off on doing mine just because I'm not happy about what it's going to cost me to put the mesh i want into the top vents.


----------



## oO-Waschbaer-Oo

you will be able to buy the mesh on Gosumodz website soon







they actually got the mesh from the original supplier where Phanteks got theirs


----------



## viperguy212

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Granpa*
> 
> I have one. Depending on the PSU that you have, I was able to squeeze one resting on the floor at the gap between the PSU and the back glass panel. I did have to add motherboard spacers to the aquaero to prop it up so it rests on the floor of the case.


Well just tried it, doesn't fit for me and my EVGA g2 850. Back to the drawing board


----------



## Granpa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> Well just tried it, doesn't fit for me and my EVGA g2 850. Back to the drawing board


----------



## viperguy212

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Granpa*


Wow perfect fit. Mine's not even close. I fabbed up a acrylic panel to mount to the screw holes. I think I'm just going to mount it to the rear side of the PSU shroud with some double sided tape.


----------



## trawetSluaP

How much did this cost in total?


----------



## oO-Waschbaer-Oo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> How much did this cost in total?


did what cost ?


----------



## trawetSluaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oO-Waschbaer-Oo*
> 
> did what cost ?


That would help right? Haha.

The cutting of the Evolv top and the mesh.


----------



## oO-Waschbaer-Oo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> That would help right? Haha.
> 
> The cutting of the Evolv top and the mesh.


i payed 48 euro inkl shipping .. it also depends on the number and size of holes you want ( cause the bits do break or wear of pretty fast )

mesh was included in my order







but they will sell the mesh seperatly soon







( btw original mesh that phanteks also uses )


----------



## trawetSluaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oO-Waschbaer-Oo*
> 
> i payed 48 euro inkl shipping .. it also depends on the number and size of holes you want ( cause the bits do break or wear of pretty fast )
> 
> mesh was included in my order
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but they will sell the mesh seperatly soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( btw original mesh that phanteks also uses )


Wow, that's cheap! Is tha including the cost to ship to them?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> Wow, that's cheap! Is tha including the cost to ship to them?


At a guess it was a promotional price. Two way shipping could be 48 euro.


----------



## oO-Waschbaer-Oo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> Wow, that's cheap! Is tha including the cost to ship to them?


nah 48 was just including the shipping back to me







not the shipping to them


----------



## viperguy212

For those curious here's the Aquaero with a EVGA 850 G2.

Not that in this quick picture I have it mounted to a small piece of acrylic I'll be using with double sided tape to mount it. It did not fit without the acrylic either.


----------



## alanthecelt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> For those curious here's the Aquaero with a EVGA 850 G2.
> 
> Not that in this quick picture I have it mounted to a small piece of acrylic I'll be using with double sided tape to mount it. It did not fit without the acrylic either.


yup thats the same sort of space as mine
i just have the outside edge of the aquaaero down in the lower corner, and the other edge resting on the PSU, so it sits at 45 degrees, it doesnt move, and it cannot make electrical contact with anything


----------



## viperguy212

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanthecelt*
> 
> yup thats the same sort of space as mine
> i just have the outside edge of the aquaaero down in the lower corner, and the other edge resting on the PSU, so it sits at 45 degrees, it doesnt move, and it cannot make electrical contact with anything


I'm definitely considering that option or maybe even double-sided taping it to the the PSU itself.


----------



## hockeyboy1002

That's where
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> Haha I deeply considered this approach but the thought of draining my loop again and modding the case more so then it already is seemed too cumbersome at this point in time.
> I'll check this space out though. I have a EVGA G2 850 in there so there should be some room.
> 
> Thanks!


Ther's where I'm having mine modded into by modmymods


----------



## BreakDown

Hello,

Ive been reading a bit through the past coments and i have seen that some people complain about bad airflow on this case. However, its not clear to me how bad airflow is and if its only an issue when you install thick radiators or if its also an issue with only air cooling.

If someone could clear the up for me i would appreciate since im considering buying the case for my new build and plan on using only air cooling.

Also, ive seen people say that this case has much better build quality than the corsair 750D, how so? If anyone has owned both cases i would like to know how they compare, i have a 750D and i dont have many complaints at all.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BreakDown*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Ive been reading a bit through the past coments and i have seen that some people complain about bad airflow on this case. However, its not clear to me how bad airflow is and if its only an issue when you install thick radiators or if its also an issue with only air cooling.
> 
> If someone could clear the up for me i would appreciate since im considering buying the case for my new build and plan on using only air cooling.
> 
> Also, ive seen people say that this case has much better build quality than the corsair 750D, how so? If anyone has owned both cases i would like to know how they compare, i have a 750D and i dont have many complaints at all.


The airflow issues are specific to top mounted radiators. For air cooling, flow is as good as or better than the 750D. As far as build quality, they are night and day. Phanteks uses much higher quality materials, and the design is much better thought out. Head over to the Phanteks owners thread and you will see scores of posts from users who came from Corsair cases, all noting how big the difference is.


----------



## BreakDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The airflow issues are specific to top mounted radiators. For air cooling, flow is as good as or better than the 750D. As far as build quality, they are night and day. Phanteks uses much higher quality materials, and the design is much better thought out. Head over to the Phanteks owners thread and you will see scores of posts from users who came from Corsair cases, all noting how big the difference is.


Thanks for the reply, im happy to hear the issues are just there for certain set ups.

Would you also happen to know if using an AIO liquid cooler like a NZXT Kraken and mouting its radiator on the front could also cause issues? or should that work fine?

Yes ive read many times that the latest phanteks cases generally have excellent build quality, thats a big draw for me.


----------



## oO-Waschbaer-Oo

yea front airflow is better than 750d







top airflow is a nightmare .. the issue is that the hot air gets stuck at the top .. -.- and with the badly designed bracket etc it sirculates on the top rad .. mine pushed hot air out the top .. this air wasnt able to leave the case and got pushed back into the case ... thats why i let some one cnc a grill to the top


----------



## BreakDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oO-Waschbaer-Oo*
> 
> yea front airflow is better than 750d
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> top airflow is a nightmare .. the issue is that the hot air gets stuck at the top .. -.- and with the badly designed bracket etc it sirculates on the top rad .. mine pushed hot air out the top .. this air wasnt able to leave the case and got pushed back into the case ... thats why i let some one cnc a grill to the top


How were you cooling before you moded the top? Aire cooling, air with a liquid cooled cpu or mostly liquid?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

This is why I can't mod the top. Anybody have the same problem?


----------



## velocityx

I actually did some testing. And I put the front rad fans as exhaust to front, and top as exhaust to top, and back fan as intake because it is positioned right next to a window getting colder air. My mobo vrm temps (-20 c) and water temps dropped (-10c). It stops my cpu and gpu from climbing when The Phanteks Evolved Owen ATX starts to heat things up inside ;]

I wish Phanteks made a new Evolv, One that's 3cm taller, deep as is now and longer so I can put a dual rez next to each other like in parvum L1.

If not I will make that case myself.


----------



## oO-Waschbaer-Oo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> 
> 
> This is why I can't mod the top. Anybody have the same problem?


shame on you .. such a beatuiful pc case .. and you use it to place a beercan ontop of it .. LUL


----------



## Windeh

My Aquaero position. You can no longer see the Aquaero in my current setup...









Before


After


----------



## petmic10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> 
> 
> This is why I can't mod the top. Anybody have the same problem?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oO-Waschbaer-Oo*
> 
> shame on you .. such a beatuiful pc case .. and you use it to place a beercan ontop of it .. LUL


At least he's using coasters. lol


----------



## viperguy212

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Windeh*
> 
> My Aquaero position. You can no longer see the Aquaero in my current setup...


Part of me is debating that same location. Mine's currently occupied by a 3.5" HDD but I may just move that sucker to my unRaid array and enjoy the new real estate. I think 3 SSD + M.2 is enough for everyday use.


----------



## hockeyboy1002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Windeh*
> 
> My Aquaero position. You can no longer see the Aquaero in my current setup...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> After


What size is the front radiator, and how long is your gpu?


----------



## rigzyrigz

Hi everyone, I just joined the forum. I also did some modding on the Enthoo Evolv ATX.

Front Panel


Front Panel.


Top Panel - the design has two sized honeycombs, and they all have a 3mm radius.


The front panel has ~2cm separators and 32mm #6 screws (if I remember correctly), to raise the panel outwards a bit. I didn't like the way it sunk into the case originally, and I also wanted to help airflow by rasing it abit.




I cut into the case to make room for 3 x 140mm fans. Also cut the dust filter.




BackPanel - I didn't like the the wires showing through the back-glass panel, so I actually borrowed the back panel from my original Enthoo Evolve, (which I messed up trying to build this one) .


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rigzyrigz*
> 
> Hi everyone, I just joined the forum. I also did some modding on the Enthoo Evolv ATX.
> 
> Front Panel
> 
> 
> Front Panel.
> 
> 
> Top Panel - the design has two sized honeycombs, and they all have a 3mm radius.
> 
> 
> The front panel has ~2cm separators and 32mm #6 screws (if I remember correctly), to raise the panel outwards a bit. I didn't like the way it sunk into the case originally, and I also wanted to help airflow by rasing it abit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut into the case to make room for 3 x 140mm fans. Also cut the dust filter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BackPanel - I didn't like the the wires showing through the back-glass panel, so I actually borrowed the back panel from my original Enthoo Evolve, (which I messed up trying to build this one) .


Welcome to the OCN forums that looks really good.


----------



## Granpa

Very nice job. I resorted to using window tint film for the rear so I can be lazy with cabling. Had my front panel cut with waterjet for better airflow as well


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rigzyrigz*
> 
> Hi everyone, I just joined the forum. I also did some modding on the Enthoo Evolv ATX.
> 
> Front Panel
> 
> 
> Front Panel.
> 
> 
> Top Panel - the design has two sized honeycombs, and they all have a 3mm radius.
> 
> 
> The front panel has ~2cm separators and 32mm #6 screws (if I remember correctly), to raise the panel outwards a bit. I didn't like the way it sunk into the case originally, and I also wanted to help airflow by rasing it abit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut into the case to make room for 3 x 140mm fans. Also cut the dust filter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BackPanel - I didn't like the the wires showing through the back-glass panel, so I actually borrowed the back panel from my original Enthoo Evolve, (which I messed up trying to build this one) .


Perfection!


----------



## trawetSluaP

rigzyrigs, mind if I ask how much the cutting cost? Or did you do it yourself?


----------



## rigzyrigz

Please post pictures. I would love to see. As I mentioned in my post, I have another enthoo evolve atx that I messed up the front panel only, so I may do something with that just for fun.


----------



## rigzyrigz

78$ for the waterjetting on top and front.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rigzyrigz*
> 
> Hi everyone, I just joined the forum. I also did some modding on the Enthoo Evolv ATX.
> 
> Front Panel
> 
> 
> Front Panel.
> 
> 
> Top Panel - the design has two sized honeycombs, and they all have a 3mm radius.
> 
> 
> The front panel has ~2cm separators and 32mm #6 screws (if I remember correctly), to raise the panel outwards a bit. I didn't like the way it sunk into the case originally, and I also wanted to help airflow by rasing it abit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut into the case to make room for 3 x 140mm fans. Also cut the dust filter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BackPanel - I didn't like the the wires showing through the back-glass panel, so I actually borrowed the back panel from my original Enthoo Evolve, (which I messed up trying to build this one) .


LOOK AWESOME! May I ask you for your 3D files for cutting?


----------



## rigzyrigz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> LOOK AWESOME! May I ask you for your 3D files for cutting?


Yes sir I can, here you go:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xou9wa5s6a46qw3/enthoo-design-rodrigo.ai?dl=0
Love the water loop. Were not able to fit a radiator on the top?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trawetSluaP*
> 
> rigzyrigs, mind if I ask how much the cutting cost? Or did you do it yourself?


It cost me $78 for both top and front panels. I went to my local water jetting place in Phoenix, AZ, but you can go wherever they do water-jet cutting.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rigzyrigz*
> 
> Yes sir I can, here you go:
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/xou9wa5s6a46qw3/enthoo-design-rodrigo.ai?dl=0
> Love the water loop. Were not able to fit a radiator on the top?
> It cost me $78 for both top and front panels. I went to my local water jetting place in Phoenix, AZ, but you can go wherever they do water-jet cutting.


You mean on my loop? I have 2x 360 SLIM rads, one top and one front.

Thanks for file!







But why do you have those small holes in on front panel? I can understand top ones to some degree (for rad mount), but why front?


----------



## rigzyrigz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> You mean on my loop? I have 2x 360 SLIM rads, one top and one front.
> 
> Thanks for file!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But why do you have those small holes in on front panel? I can understand top ones to some degree (for rad mount), but why front?


The small holes on the design are 3mm in diameter, perfect for fitting a #4 metric screw which will hold the holed-sheet-metal you see in the build. In short, it's to hold that piece. You can see that in the back of the panels, as this:


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rigzyrigz*
> 
> The small holes on the design are 3mm in diameter, perfect for fitting a #4 metric screw which will hold the holed-sheet-metal you see in the build. In short, it's to hold that piece. You can see that in the back of the panels, as this:


AAAAA.... I see, clever sir, clever. Didn't think of that.

But you could just glue it.


----------



## rigzyrigz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> AAAAA.... I see, clever sir, clever. Didn't think of that.
> 
> But you could just glue it.


I guess I could have. I feel the screws are a more durable solution.


----------



## MoDeNa

Excellent work rigzyrigz! Your mod remembers me the Hex Gear design, which looks very nice.

Thanks for sharing the files! It is much appreciated!

Kind regards and welcome!


----------



## strokin3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oO-Waschbaer-Oo*
> 
> guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i got something for ya
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> made by Gozumods
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/gosumodz


How can i order that?


----------



## MoDeNa

Is there an english version of that shop (Gosumodz)? I do not understand german... XD


----------



## rigzyrigz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> How can i order that?


Very very nice. Could you share your design files?


----------



## C1v1cC0n

Not watercooled but this the end result of having singularitycomputers in Australia mod and repaint my front panel on my Evolv.


----------



## aberrero

That's awesome.


----------



## oO-Waschbaer-Oo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> How can i order that?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoDeNa*
> 
> Is there an english version of that shop (Gosumodz)? I do not understand german... XD


ask them on facebook ( they can also comunicate in english ) the front design is also finished







im getting the first part sometime today







il send some pictures of the finished design for both, when it arrived
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rigzyrigz*
> 
> Very very nice. Could you share your design files?


no i wont give the file away







its property of Gosumodz now







i just created it for them







if you want it you have to ask them







but im not shure if they will give it away









here is their facebook page, if you have any questions or whant to get some designs








https://www.facebook.com/gosumodz/

btw they will add more designs here is a peek at some of the designs








https://scontent-frx5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/20664141_1632340070111139_4585965124185990150_n.jpg?oh=9cd74869c42e8e63e8c53e28132bb3a8&oe=59F6DCDD


----------



## oO-Waschbaer-Oo

aand here it is







the finished product







with both top and front design plus the original mesh that is used for the original vents on the top part


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oO-Waschbaer-Oo*
> 
> aand here it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the finished product
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with both top and front design plus the original mesh that is used for the original vents on the top part


Very nice!


----------



## Codewerk

Here is my build and thanks for the inspirations.


All led stripes are hidden, i don't like visible ones.


Spoiler: More Pics




almost all cabels are custom and cut to lenght.


cut out the mesh for better airflow.



My idea was it to keep the design and do not destroy the look of this case, but still improve the airflow. This is the result gosumodz done the cnc cutting/drilling.


I also used some spacer for the front.



Some pictures in the dark.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Codewerk*
> 
> Here is my build and thanks for the inspirations.
> 
> 
> All led stripes are hidden, i don't like visible ones.
> 
> 
> almost all cabels are custom and cut to lenght.
> 
> 
> cut out the mesh for better airflow.
> 
> 
> 
> My idea was it to keep the design and do not destroy the look of this case, but still improve the airflow. This is the result gosumodz done the cnc cutting/drilling.
> 
> 
> I also used some spacer for the front.
> 
> 
> 
> Some pictures in the dark.


Very nice!


----------



## oO-Waschbaer-Oo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Very nice!


nice work from gosumodz and awesome build buddy


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oO-Waschbaer-Oo*
> 
> nice work from gosumodz and awesome build buddy


+1 I really like the way the top has been drilled out instead of cut out to retain the original look


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> +1 I really like the way the top has been drilled out instead of cut out to retain the original look


Absolutely agree. The top should have looked like this in the first place.


----------



## Codewerk

thanks, i was inspired by my headphone amp that has the same holes


----------



## alanthecelt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oO-Waschbaer-Oo*
> 
> aand here it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the finished product
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with both top and front design plus the original mesh that is used for the original vents on the top part




i really like it, but i cant unsee this


----------



## hockeyboy1002

My case just got finished and is currently being sent back to me. If you look on modmymods Instagram story that's my case. Lots of mods done to it, top panel, aquaero, vertical gpu mount, 25mm fans between top and rad bracket, case cut to fit eatx board (threadripper build







), and my front panel will be getting done


----------



## hockeyboy1002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C1v1cC0n*
> 
> Not watercooled but this the end result of having singularitycomputers in Australia mod and repaint my front panel on my Evolv.


Where did you get the red screws for the tempered glass panels from?


----------



## s0n1x

Here is my Evolv build I finished a few months ago. I used some copper pipes for some of it and just broke it down to switch out the coolant from red to black and add more copper pipes. I'm kinda wishing I would have done all the pipes copper now since the black is hard to see.






System Specs:
Asus Maximus IX Formula
Intel Core i7-7700K
Titan XP
EK-PE-360 (Top)
EK-PE-240 (Front)
Be Quiet Silent Wings 3 Fans
G.SKILL TridentZ Series 64GB Ram


----------



## hockeyboy1002

Modded phantek enthoo evolv atx tg came today. I had aquaero modded into the psu shroud, mobo tray cut so I could fit an eatx board, vertical gpu bracket, top rad bracket modded to fit 25mm fans inbetween, rad bracket airflow modded for the extra holes, top panel modded for airflow, and the front panel is being modded for airflow. All mods were done by ModMyMods.
Specs:
Threadripper 1950x, zenith extreme, 1080ti xtreme edition, 64gb (8x 8gb) ddr4 3200 cl14, 2x samsung 960 pro 512gb, 1x samsung 960 pro 1tb, will have a full loop once monoblock is released. Will post more pictures as it gets fully built. Will be built for now with an aio due to waterblocks not being released yet.


----------



## Granpa

Very nice. What vertical gpu bracket is that?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hockeyboy1002*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Modded phantek enthoo evolv atx tg came today. I had aquaero modded into the psu shroud, mobo tray cut so I could fit an eatx board, vertical gpu bracket, top rad bracket modded to fit 25mm fans inbetween, rad bracket airflow modded for the extra holes, top panel modded for airflow, and the front panel is being modded for airflow. All mods were done by ModMyMods.
> Specs:
> Threadripper 1950x, zenith extreme, 1080ti xtreme edition, 64gb (8x 8gb) ddr4 3200 cl14, 2x samsung 960 pro 512gb, 1x samsung 960 pro 1tb, will have a full loop once monoblock is released. Will post more pictures as it gets fully built. Will be built for now with an aio due to waterblocks not being released yet.


----------



## hockeyboy1002

It is the coolermaster mastercase vertical gpu bracket


----------



## Granpa

Ah cool. What pci-e riser cabe did he use? Will you mind taking a picture of how the gpu connector is mounted to the coolermaster bracket?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hockeyboy1002*
> 
> It is the coolermaster mastercase vertical gpu bracket


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hockeyboy1002*
> 
> It is the coolermaster mastercase vertical gpu bracket


What is the advantage of mounting the GPU vertically? I will be building a watercooling loop so I'm kinda curious what this really does.


----------



## doyll

Next build with vertical GPU mounting will be with Mnpctech's vertical GPU mount brackets. Here is video of Bill demonstrating different mounting positions as well s the difference between Stage 1 and Stage 2


----------



## oO-Waschbaer-Oo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What is the advantage of mounting the GPU vertically? I will be building a watercooling loop so I'm kinda curious what this really does.


just for looks







nothing more


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oO-Waschbaer-Oo*
> 
> just for looks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nothing more


Oh ok. What are the components needed to mount a GPU vertically in an Evolv ATX case?


----------



## alanthecelt

cooler master with li-heat riser cable


----------



## kevindd992002

Do you have to mod the Evolv ATX if you want to use the coolermaster vertical GPU mount?

And is there any performance loss when using a pci-e riser cable?


----------



## hockeyboy1002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Granpa*
> 
> Ah cool. What pci-e riser cabe did he use? Will you mind taking a picture of how the gpu connector is mounted to the coolermaster bracket?


The gpu connector came with the bracket (i ordered it from the eu) as it screws into the bottom of the bracket to hold it into place. I'll try to get a picture shortly


----------



## hockeyboy1002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Do you have to mod the Evolv ATX if you want to use the coolermaster vertical GPU mount?
> 
> And is there any performance loss when using a pci-e riser cable?


You have to cutout the metal pieces running across the back of the case that the pcie cards would usually slide into


----------



## springs113

In response to the performance loss and using a riser cable...I believe the quality of the riser determines how much of a hit one will take. A good riser cable shouldn't have but maybe 1-2% hit and even then it maybe within the margin of error. I wouldn't skimp on riser cable though. I forgot where I saw the video on youtube, but someone did this exact test to see how much of an impact different risers(cheap-expensive) cables had on performance.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> In response to the performance loss and using a riser cable...I believe the quality of the riser determines how much of a hit one will take. A good riser cable shouldn't have but maybe 1-2% hit and even then it maybe within the margin of error. I wouldn't skimp on riser cable though. I forgot where I saw the video on youtube, but someone did this exact test to see how much of an impact different risers(cheap-expensive) cables had on performance.


Try this link


----------



## Granpa

Ah nice. The coolermaster bracket I've got does not come with a cable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hockeyboy1002*
> 
> The gpu connector came with the bracket (i ordered it from the eu) as it screws into the bottom of the bracket to hold it into place. I'll try to get a picture shortly


----------



## dainfamous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hockeyboy1002*
> 
> You have to cutout the metal pieces running across the back of the case that the pcie cards would usually slide into


What did you use to cut with? Dremel? Did you have to sand it down afterwards?

Thanks


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hockeyboy1002*
> 
> The gpu connector came with the bracket (i ordered it from the eu) as it screws into the bottom of the bracket to hold it into place. I'll try to get a picture shortly


So you can't use a more expensive riser cable with the bracket?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hockeyboy1002*
> 
> You have to cutout the metal pieces running across the back of the case that the pcie cards would usually slide into


Is it all worth it to do this though?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *springs113*
> 
> In response to the performance loss and using a riser cable...I believe the quality of the riser determines how much of a hit one will take. A good riser cable shouldn't have but maybe 1-2% hit and even then it maybe within the margin of error. I wouldn't skimp on riser cable though. I forgot where I saw the video on youtube, but someone did this exact test to see how much of an impact different risers(cheap-expensive) cables had on performance.


Which one is the best riser cable nowadays?


----------



## springs113

I'm using the riser cable that came with my Lian Li PC-011wgx. It seems to be of real good quality, I just wont be able to tell until I put it through the paces.


----------



## alanthecelt

i tried the cheap thermaltake cable first off
it did not work whatsoever

my next build i will not be using a vertical GPU mount.. there have been many times since that i have questioned if everything was working as it should be
Although it does prevent GPU sag.. i would rather engineer something myself i think
Its an expensive MOD with no real benefits


----------



## doyll

PCIe cable risers are not cheap Mnpctech sell a good PCIe cable riser.

Probably not much reason to use one in a loop except for looks .. and I do like the looks of GPU vertically mounted. With air cooling using matching side intake vents GPU runs much cooler .. and proper placement of vents and mount it keeps GPU's heated exhaust away from CPU cooler intake. To me that is a win / win!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanthecelt*
> 
> i tried the cheap thermaltake cable first off
> it did not work whatsoever
> 
> my next build i will not be using a vertical GPU mount.. there have been many times since that i have questioned if everything was working as it should be
> Although it does prevent GPU sag.. i would rather engineer something myself i think
> Its an expensive MOD with no real benefits


You misspelled Thermal_fake_.







I tried their products a few times about 20 years ago. Found them so close to feces with horrible customer support. I bought one of their early coolers with a 3-speed switch held into heatsink with hot-melt glue that heated up and melted. When I contacted them they said too bad. About the same time I had one of their huge tower cases that the plastic started disintegrating in 2 years. Enough was enough! I can proudly say I have not used anything of theirs in 20 years .. and won't for the rest of my life.


----------



## alanthecelt

to be fair
their customer service sent me out a replacement cable with no quibble, or proof of purchase or anything
and i so want to buy the View 71 case....but then that will cause a new build.. and this one is only 4 months? old....


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> PCIe cable risers are not cheap Mnpctech sell a good PCIe cable riser.
> 
> Probably not much reason to use one in a loop except for looks .. and I do like the looks of GPU vertically mounted. With air cooling using matching side intake vents GPU runs much cooler .. and proper placement of vents and mount it keeps GPU's heated exhaust away from CPU cooler intake. To me that is a win / win!!
> You misspelled Thermal_fake_.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried their products a few times about 20 years ago. Found them so close to feces with horrible customer support. I bought one of their early coolers with a 3-speed switch held into heatsink with hot-melt glue that heated up and melted. When I contacted them they said too bad. About the same time I had one of their huge tower cases that the plastic started disintegrating in 2 years. Enough was enough! .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> PCIe cable risers are not cheap Mnpctech sell a good PCIe cable riser.
> 
> Probably not much reason to use one in a loop except for looks .. and I do like the looks of GPU vertically mounted. With air cooling using matching side intake vents GPU runs much cooler .. and proper placement of vents and mount it keeps GPU's heated exhaust away from CPU cooler intake. To me that is a win / win!!
> You misspelled Thermal_fake_.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried their products a few times about 20 years ago. Found them so close to feces with horrible customer support. I bought one of their early coolers with a 3-speed switch held into heatsink with hot-melt glue that heated up and melted. When I contacted them they said too bad. About the same time I had one of their huge tower cases that the plastic started disintegrating in 2 years. Enough was enough! *I can proudly say I have not used anything of theirs in 20 years .. and won't for the rest of my life*.


+1


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Probably not much reason to use one in a loop except for looks .. and I do like the looks of GPU vertically mounted. With air cooling using matching side intake vents GPU runs much cooler .. and proper placement of vents and mount it keeps GPU's heated exhaust away from CPU cooler intake. To me that is a win / win!!
> You misspelled Thermal_fake_.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried their products a few times about 20 years ago. Found them so close to feces with horrible customer support. I bought one of their early coolers with a 3-speed switch held into heatsink with hot-melt glue that heated up and melted. When I contacted them they said too bad. About the same time I had one of their huge tower cases that the plastic started disintegrating in 2 years. Enough was enough! *I can proudly say I have not used anything of theirs in 20 years .. and won't for the rest of my life.*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> +1


+2

Tt products are awful.


----------



## blarf

Hi guys,

I've decided to try a custom loop in my Evolv ATX.

I've read the whole thread (my eyes are hurting). I still need some recommendations though.

I'm planning on cooling an overclocked 6700k and an overclocked 1080TI FE. I want good performances, but I also want something not too loud at all.

Here's what I was thinking:

Either EK-PE-360 Top Radiator
EK-PE-240 (or EK-CoolStream CE 280 if it fits) Front Radiator

or

Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS Top
Black Ice Nemesis 240GTS Front

Pump: EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM or the 100 version

CPU Block: EK-Supremacy EVO

GPU Block: One of the EK Full cover block

What do you think?

I'm still open to which tubing (size) and which Fan I should get.

Last option would be to get the EK-KIT P360 and add a EK-PE240 ( or a EK-CoolStream CE 280 if it fits) and a gpu block.

Comments? concerns? Suggestions?

Thank you in advance


----------



## hockeyboy1002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> What did you use to cut with? Dremel? Did you have to sand it down afterwards?
> 
> Thanks


It was cut with a dremel then sanded down afterwards fror smoothness


----------



## hockeyboy1002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> So you can't use a more expensive riser cable with the bracket?
> Is it all worth it to do this though?
> Which one is the best riser cable nowadays?


You can use a more expensive one. I'm just unsure if the holes will line up or not. I plan on running benchmarks with it in the riser cable, and with it directly in the mobo and see if there is a big difference or not. If there is I would get a new riser cable or not keep it mounted vertically.

It can be, it really depends. My motherboard came with a 10gbps ethernet card I can use now, and I can't use any expansion slots.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blarf*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I've decided to try a custom loop in my Evolv ATX.
> 
> I've read the whole thread (my eyes are hurting). I still need some recommendations though.
> 
> I'm planning on cooling an overclocked 6700k and an overclocked 1080TI FE. I want good performances, but I also want something not too loud at all.
> 
> Here's what I was thinking:
> 
> Either EK-PE-360 Top Radiator
> EK-PE-240 (or EK-CoolStream CE 280 if it fits) Front Radiator
> 
> or
> 
> Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS Top
> Black Ice Nemesis 240GTS Front
> 
> Pump: EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM or the 100 version
> 
> CPU Block: EK-Supremacy EVO
> 
> GPU Block: One of the EK Full cover block
> 
> What do you think?
> 
> I'm still open to which tubing (size) and which Fan I should get.
> 
> Last option would be to get the EK-KIT P360 and add a EK-PE240 ( or a EK-CoolStream CE 280 if it fits) and a gpu block.
> 
> Comments? concerns? Suggestions?
> 
> Thank you in advance


Do some perusing through the liquid cooling threads, and you will find that almost without exception, anyone who has used _*both*_ GTS and PE rads (myself included) will tell you to go with the GTS. Nicer build, better performance at tolerable noise levels, etc.

If you are doing soft tubing, use 3/8" x 5/8". Most will recommend Primochill, and it is good tubing. 3/8 x 5/8" is large enough for proper flow, the wall is thick enough to not collapse easily when making bends, and it is still small enough to work with easily. If you want low maintenance tubing, Tygon makes a nice industrial grade that works easily with standard fittings (http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=33112&catid=864). EK ZMY tends to be a little large on the OD and can be a real PITA with anything except EK fittings.

Personal opinion - I really dislike the EK XRES. Looks like a cheap toy next to the Photon or Monsoon MMRS. I ordered one to replace a Photon, took it out of the box, laughed and sent it back.


----------



## blarf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Do some perusing through the liquid cooling threads, and you will find that almost without exception, anyone who has used _*both*_ GTS and PE rads (myself included) will tell you to go with the GTS. Nicer build, better performance at tolerable noise levels, etc.
> 
> If you are doing soft tubing, use 3/8" x 5/8". Most will recommend Primochill, and it is good tubing. 3/8 x 5/8" is large enough for proper flow, the wall is thick enough to not collapse easily when making bends, and it is still small enough to work with easily. If you want low maintenance tubing, Tygon makes a nice industrial grade that works easily with standard fittings (http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=33112&catid=864). EK ZMY tends to be a little large on the OD and can be a real PITA with anything except EK fittings.
> 
> Personal opinion - I really dislike the EK XRES. Looks like a cheap toy next to the Photon or Monsoon MMRS. I ordered one to replace a Photon, took it out of the box, laughed and sent it back.


Thank you very much.

I'll go with the GTS rradiators then and I'll look into the other brand as far as resrvoirs go.

Are the CPU and GPU Block OK?

Lasty, fittings and fans you would recommend for the GTS radiators?

Once again, Thank you for your reply. I'm learning a lot reading this thread


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blarf*
> 
> Thank you very much.
> 
> I'll go with the GTS rradiators then and I'll look into the other brand as far as resrvoirs go.
> 
> Are the CPU and GPU Block OK?
> 
> Lasty, fittings and fans you would recommend for the GTS radiators?
> 
> Once again, Thank you for your reply. I'm learning a lot reading this thread


I second the GTS recommendation.

I highly recommend Watercool Heatkiller blocks (they also make a very nice reservoir). I have the IV Pro CPU block and it is just quality. EK bollocks are very nice as well, but Watercool products have that extra little touch of quality.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blarf*
> 
> Thank you very much.
> 
> I'll go with the GTS rradiators then and I'll look into the other brand as far as resrvoirs go.
> 
> Are the CPU and GPU Block OK?
> 
> Lasty, fittings and fans you would recommend for the GTS radiators?
> 
> Once again, Thank you for your reply. I'm learning a lot reading this thread


The blocks are fine, EK makes very good blocks. As @paskowitz pointed out, Heatkiller also makes excellent blocks, but the looks of them are pretty specific. And since we are in a Phanteks thread.....it is also worth noting that Phanteks makes excellent blocks. I have been using the GPU block since it's initial small release almost a year ago, and like it better than my EK, Swiftech or XSPC GPU blocks. I haven't used the CPU block as of yet.

As far as fittings, Bitspower, XSPC, Swiftech and Phanteks all make top quality fittings. You could really pick whichever of those you like the look of for your build and be very happy with them. I've had great experiences with Monsoon fittings, but I know a lot of others have complaints.

In terms of fans, I've tested Phanteks F120MP, GTs, Silent Wings 3, eLoops, Noctua iPPC & NF-F12, Corsair ML & SP, Vardars (the first version), Cougar Vortex, CM JetFlo and I bunch of others I've forgotten on the 360GTS. I always go back to the F120MP or Silent WIngs 3 for my own use.


----------



## blarf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The blocks are fine, EK makes very good blocks. As @paskowitz pointed out, Heatkiller also makes excellent blocks, but the looks of them are pretty specific. And since we are in a Phanteks thread.....it is also worth noting that Phanteks makes excellent blocks. I have been using the GPU block since it's initial small release almost a year ago, and like it better than my EK, Swiftech or XSPC GPU blocks. I haven't used the CPU block as of yet.
> 
> As far as fittings, Bitspower, XSPC, Swiftech and Phanteks all make top quality fittings. You could really pick whichever of those you like the look of for your build and be very happy with them. I've had great experiences with Monsoon fittings, but I know a lot of others have complaints.
> 
> In terms of fans, I've tested Phanteks F120MP, GTs, Silent Wings 3, eLoops, Noctua iPPC & NF-F12, Corsair ML & SP, Vardars (the first version), Cougar Vortex, CM JetFlo and I bunch of others I've forgotten on the 360GTS. I always go back to the F120MP or Silent WIngs 3 for my own use.


Thank you.

So here's what I would have so far in my Evolv ATX case:

Top: Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS with 3 Phanteks F120MP

Front: Black Ice Nemesis 240GTS with 2 Phanteks F120MP

CPU Block: EK-Supremacy EVO

GPU Block: EK block with backplate

Reservoir/pump comb: Probably XSPC D5 Photon 170 Reservoir/Pump Combo (with XSPC D5 Vario Pump)

Tubing: Primochill 3/8 x 5/8"

Fittings: TBD

Liquid: TBD

Am i forgetting anything? When I get the EK blocks, any reasons I should avoid the acrylic ones?

Also, just to confirm: the GTS280 wont fit the front, would it? it would be nice if it does as I have 5 140mm Phantek fans in the case right now


----------



## strokin3

I always thought the best setup would be the EK-PE kit? and then another extra EKPE Radiator . is that not the case anymore?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blarf*
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> So here's what I would have so far in my Evolv ATX case:
> 
> Top: Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS with 3 Phanteks F120MP
> 
> Front: Black Ice Nemesis 240GTS with 2 Phanteks F120MP
> 
> CPU Block: EK-Supremacy EVO
> 
> GPU Block: EK block with backplate
> 
> Reservoir/pump comb: Probably XSPC D5 Photon 170 Reservoir/Pump Combo (with XSPC D5 Vario Pump)
> 
> Tubing: Primochill 3/8 x 5/8"
> 
> Fittings: TBD
> 
> Liquid: TBD
> 
> Am i forgetting anything? When I get the EK blocks, any reasons I should avoid the acrylic ones?
> 
> Also, just to confirm: the GTS280 wont fit the front, would it? it would be nice if it does as I have 5 140mm Phantek fans in the case right now


For fittings, I like Primochill. Just did a build with them and have 0 complaints. Liquid, I would avoid Mayhems Pastel, but to each their own. No reason not to get the acrylic blocks. You may want to get the EK backplate depending on your GPU. Many non reference backplates do not work with EK blocks (Strix, FTW3, etc). This is one big advantage to Phanteks blocks (they work with AIB backplates).

The 280 will not fit in the front without cutting the edges of the PSU shroud. If you want max cooling in the Evolv, the best option is 2x360 GTS (U-flow) with the top ports on the left and the front ports on the bottom. Rear fan has to omitted or be a slim one (Cryorig CPU cooler fan works). Otherwise, 360 GTS top and 240 GTS (rear fan would be 140mm as intake) front will give you the best looks/perf.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> I always thought the best setup would be the EK-PE kit? and then another extra EKPE Radiator . is that not the case anymore?


Since the PE is thicker than the GTS, you can't fit 2x360s without modding. 2x360 GTS > 360PE&240PE. Also the GTS may have less theoretical max cooling capacity, but at lower RPMs it is on par or better than just about any rad (correct me if I am wrong).


----------



## strokin3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> For fittings, I like Primochill. Just did a build with them and have 0 complaints. Liquid, I would avoid Mayhems Pastel, but to each their own. No reason not to get the acrylic blocks. You may want to get the EK backplate depending on your GPU. Many non reference backplates do not work with EK blocks (Strix, FTW3, etc). This is one big advantage to Phanteks blocks (they work with AIB backplates).
> 
> The 280 will not fit in the front without cutting the edges of the PSU shroud. If you want max cooling in the Evolv, the best option is 2x360 GTS (U-flow) with the top ports on the left and the front ports on the bottom. Rear fan has to omitted or be a slim one (Cryorig CPU cooler fan works). Otherwise, 360 GTS top and 240 GTS (rear fan would be 140mm as intake) front will give you the best looks/perf.
> Since the PE is thicker than the GTS, you can't fit 2x360s without modding. 2x360 GTS > 360PE&240PE. Also the GTS may have less theoretical max cooling capacity, but at lower RPMs it is on par or better than just about any rad (correct me if I am wrong).


How much more would you be getting with 2x 360 over 1x360 PE and 1x 240 PE?

The kit just makes everything convenient so if its a minimal boost than id rather stick with ekwb. thanks for the suggestions.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> How much more would you be getting with 2x 360 over 1x360 PE and 1x 240 PE?
> 
> The kit just makes everything convenient so if its a minimal boost than id rather stick with ekwb. thanks for the suggestions.


It depends on what you are cooling. If you are cooling two lower heat output components, like maybe a Ryzen 1700 and a 1070, you wouldn't see a difference. Actually, a single 360GTS would handle that setup very nicely.

The kit is convenient and cost effective, as you say. But is it the "the best setup" as you stated? No, it's not. You can absolutely put together better components buying separately. There are even other kits that have advantages in certain aspects that may make them more desirable to some users.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Since the PE is thicker than the GTS, you can't fit 2x360s without modding. 2x360 GTS > 360PE&240PE. Also the GTS may have less theoretical max cooling capacity, but at lower RPMs it is on par or better than just about any rad (correct me if I am wrong).


Actually, the 360 GTS matches the 360PE in cooling capacity even when you outfit the 360PE with P/P - http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/


----------



## springs113

Which was why i recommended the gts in the first place. It's an excellent rad which works well with low,med or even high rpm fans. The kit is a nice way too untangle things so to soak but as retorted above, you can get better selecting individual pieces.


----------



## HippoLOL

Anyone got CAD file for the front & top panel?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HippoLOL*
> 
> Anyone got CAD file for the front & top panel?


Go to this site and click on the downloads tab.


----------



## HippoLOL

Thanks.


----------



## soulwrath

quick question guys, i have my 360 rad top/240rad front pulling air out with a single exhaust fan pushing 80 CFM out ~ do you think this is optimal?
my temps sit @ 33 idle, 50C when gaming with a 1800x @ 4.0ghz 1.395v with a 1080 Ti on the same loop.

When running stress tests I hit as high as 65C on the CPU. looking forward to your feedback


----------



## blarf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> For fittings, I like Primochill. Just did a build with them and have 0 complaints. Liquid, I would avoid Mayhems Pastel, but to each their own. No reason not to get the acrylic blocks. You may want to get the EK backplate depending on your GPU. Many non reference backplates do not work with EK blocks (Strix, FTW3, etc). This is one big advantage to Phanteks blocks (they work with AIB backplates).
> 
> The 280 will not fit in the front without cutting the edges of the PSU shroud. If you want max cooling in the Evolv, the best option is 2x360 GTS (U-flow) with the top ports on the left and the front ports on the bottom. Rear fan has to omitted or be a slim one (Cryorig CPU cooler fan works). Otherwise, 360 GTS top and 240 GTS (rear fan would be 140mm as intake) front will give you the best looks/perf.
> Since the PE is thicker than the GTS, you can't fit 2x360s without modding. 2x360 GTS > 360PE&240PE. Also the GTS may have less theoretical max cooling capacity, but at lower RPMs it is on par or better than just about any rad (correct me if I am wrong).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The blocks are fine, EK makes very good blocks. As @paskowitz pointed out, Heatkiller also makes excellent blocks, but the looks of them are pretty specific. And since we are in a Phanteks thread.....it is also worth noting that Phanteks makes excellent blocks. I have been using the GPU block since it's initial small release almost a year ago, and like it better than my EK, Swiftech or XSPC GPU blocks. I haven't used the CPU block as of yet.
> 
> As far as fittings, Bitspower, XSPC, Swiftech and Phanteks all make top quality fittings. You could really pick whichever of those you like the look of for your build and be very happy with them. I've had great experiences with Monsoon fittings, but I know a lot of others have complaints.
> 
> In terms of fans, I've tested Phanteks F120MP, GTs, Silent Wings 3, eLoops, Noctua iPPC & NF-F12, Corsair ML & SP, Vardars (the first version), Cougar Vortex, CM JetFlo and I bunch of others I've forgotten on the 360GTS. I always go back to the F120MP or Silent WIngs 3 for my own use.


Now Couple quick questions to both of you guys:

With the Pump/reservoir combo and the GTS360 and GTS240 radiators (and CPU/GPU blocks), Should I be worried about flow restriction? I mean, would I be OK?

Also, which order should the loop go?

And how should I orient the radiators and fans? (I know the 360 is gonna be on the top with the fans pushing air out...right? and the 240 in the front with fans pushing air into the case?)

FYI, I've decided to get the watercool heatkiller cpu and gpu blocks for my build.

Once again, Thank you very much for sharing all your knowledge


----------



## Granpa

Just to add on to the excellent advice paskowitz and ciarlatano provided.

With the Pump/reservoir combo and the GTS360 and GTS240 radiators (and CPU/GPU blocks), Should I be worried about flow restriction? I mean, would I be OK?

A: Unless you are using some seriously weak pump, there should not be any worries on restrictions. My D5 works fine at 50% speed

Also, which order should the loop go?

A: It does not matter as the water temp will equalise over time. As long as the reservoir is above the pump

And how should I orient the radiators and fans? (I know the 360 is gonna be on the top with the fans pushing air out...right? and the 240 in the front with fans pushing air into the case?)

A: I am currently running my loop in the Evolv this way in order to create positive airflow

Front: 3x 120mm fans (intake) with a GTS 240 -- (2 fans on radiator, 1 fan below)
Top: 3x 120mm fans (exhaust) with a GTS 360
Rear: 1x 120mm (intake)

(Running pwm gentle typhoons 1850 variant)

FYI, I've decided to get the watercool heatkiller cpu and gpu blocks for my build.

A: Watercool blocks looks awesome! =)


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blarf*
> 
> Now Couple quick questions to both of you guys:
> 
> With the Pump/reservoir combo and the GTS360 and GTS240 radiators (and CPU/GPU blocks), Should I be worried about flow restriction? I mean, would I be OK?
> 
> Also, which order should the loop go?
> 
> And how should I orient the radiators and fans? (I know the 360 is gonna be on the top with the fans pushing air out...right? and the 240 in the front with fans pushing air into the case?)
> 
> FYI, I've decided to get the watercool heatkiller cpu and gpu blocks for my build.
> 
> Once again, Thank you very much for sharing all your knowledge


See @Granpa's post above. Two things to add to that:

First, I actually found that running the rear fan as intake produced higher temps than running it as exhaust or simply leaving it out (which is where it is now). Running it as intake was pulling the exhaust from the top rad right back into the case since they are right next to each other

Second, and very important - make sure you isolate the top radiator. In other words, block all of the empty holes in the radiator bracket so you are not recirculating air back into the main chamber and forcing it to exhaust through the top. The negative effects are not as drastic with a 360mm as with other sizes, but it is still noticeable and measurable. As below:


----------



## Granpa

Hmm, I never did compare the temps after I swapped the rear fan to intake. Figured the airflow over vrms may be useful but that may be a moot point now after I install my monoblock.

And yes, sealing the gaps at the top / tray makes a noticeable difference!

One other thing to note if installing a 360 gts up top and a 240 gts in front is the clearance.

If you intend to retain the 3.5inch hdd bays, you may have to ditch the top removable sliding tray and mount the radiator directly to the top.

However, some modding may be required to achieve that. Even so, the clearance is so tight, the 2 radiators are practically touching on mine.

You can opt to slide the 360 rad further left (if u look at the case facing the side), however, you will lose the space to install a rear fan. (See the pics for an example)

It also helps a lot if you mod the top panel for additional ventilation




All in all, this case took quite a bit of trial and error to figure out especially when I'm new to watercooling.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> See @Granpa's post above. Two things to add to that:
> 
> First, I actually found that running the rear fan as intake produced higher temps than running it as exhaust or simply leaving it out (which is where it is now). Running it as intake was pulling the exhaust from the top rad right back into the case since they are right next to each other
> 
> Second, and very important - make sure you isolate the top radiator. In other words, block all of the empty holes in the radiator bracket so you are not recirculating air back into the main chamber and forcing it to exhaust through the top. The negative effects are not as drastic with a 360mm as with other sizes, but it is still noticeable and measurable. As below:


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Granpa*
> 
> Hmm, I never did compare the temps after I swapped the rear fan to intake. Figured the airflow over vrms may be useful but that may be a moot point now after I install my monoblock.
> 
> And yes, sealing the gaps at the top / tray makes a noticeable difference!
> 
> One other thing to note if installing a 360 gts up top and a 240 gts in front is the clearance.
> 
> If you intend to retain the 3.5inch hdd bays, you may have to ditch the top removable sliding tray and mount the radiator directly to the top.
> 
> However, some modding may be required to achieve that. Even so, the clearance is so tight, the 2 radiators are practically touching on mine.
> 
> You can opt to slide the 360 rad further left (if u look at the case facing the side), however, you will lose the space to install a rear fan. (See the pics for an example)
> 
> It also helps a lot if you mod the top panel for additional ventilation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All in all, this case took quite a bit of trial and error to figure out especially when I'm new to watercooling.


Thankfully, a lot of us can share all of that trial and error.

Personal opinion - I would slide the 360 all the way to the rear and lose the rear fan.


----------



## paskowitz

Only reason I have my rear fan as intake is because I have a cut top panel and the vast majority of the air from my top 280 rad exits the top of my case, not out the standard back vent (only because the air now has an easier path to take). I could see how it would be a negative if you had a stock top.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Only reason I have my rear fan as intake is because I have a cut top panel and the vast majority of the air from my top 280 rad exits the top of my case, not out the standard back vent (only because the air now has an easier path to take). I could see how it would be a negative if you had a stock top.


It makes perfect sense with a cut top. I was actually surprised at how much of a negative affect it had with the stock top. So much so that I broke out the thermometers to make sure I wasn't imagining it. But, it was absolutely recycling the exhaust right back into the case.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> It makes perfect sense with a cut top. I was actually surprised at how much of a negative affect it had with the stock top. So much so that I broke out the thermometers to make sure I wasn't imagining it. But, it was absolutely recycling the exhaust right back into the case.


Out of curiosity, where is your case setting?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Out of curiosity, where is your case setting?


On the floor, desk to the left, nothing in front, above or to the right, wall is 30 inches behind it. In other words, unobstructed airflow.


----------



## blarf

@granpa @ciarlatano thank you very much.

For the front radiator, should I put the fittings on the top or bottom?

also should I place my pump/reservoir combo vertically high or low in the case? (I will also attach a drain valve)


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blarf*
> 
> @granpa @ciarlatano thank you very much.
> 
> For the front radiator, should I put the fittings on the top or bottom?
> 
> also should I place my pump/reservoir combo vertically high or low in the case? (I will also attach a drain valve)


I prefer fittings at the bottom, only because I find the tube routing and draining easier. Neither way is wrong.

You need to have enough room on top of the res to fill. There won't be a lot of play with the Photon and a top rad.


----------



## Granpa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blarf*
> 
> @granpa @ciarlatano thank you very much.
> 
> For the front radiator, should I put the fittings on the top or bottom?
> 
> also should I place my pump/reservoir combo vertically high or low in the case? (I will also attach a drain valve)


what @ciarlatano said. If possible, do try to feed the reservoir through the top rather than the pump top, I feel bleeding it is easier this way (too much "turbulence" if both inlet and outlet at pump top is used)

Depending on the type of reservoir tube you have, a short reservoir will give you alot of clearance at the expense of aesthetic (well thats up to individual)

Do plan on how you wish to install the pump/res combo on to the case. I had a nightmare with mine


----------



## blarf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Granpa*
> 
> what @ciarlatano said. If possible, do try to feed the reservoir through the top rather than the pump top, I feel bleeding it is easier this way (too much "turbulence" if both inlet and outlet at pump top is used)
> 
> Depending on the type of reservoir tube you have, a short reservoir will give you alot of clearance at the expense of aesthetic (well thats up to individual)
> 
> Do plan on how you wish to install the pump/res combo on to the case. I had a nightmare with mine


I'm planning on getting the XSPC D5 Photon 170 Reservoir/Pump Combo (with XSPC D5 Vario Pump)....what is considered "short reservoir"?


----------



## Granpa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blarf*
> 
> I'm planning on getting the XSPC D5 Photon 170 Reservoir/Pump Combo (with XSPC D5 Vario Pump)....what is considered "short reservoir"?


Find out the length of the pump reservoir combo, do take into account any extra headroom you require for filling the reservoir or installing any inlet fittings.

Match the length to the place you wish to mount the pump/reservoir.

To be honest, I do not think you have space for it. Most importantly, are you retaining the hdd bays?


----------



## Granpa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blarf*
> 
> I'm planning on getting the XSPC D5 Photon 170 Reservoir/Pump Combo (with XSPC D5 Vario Pump)....what is considered "short reservoir"?


If you are using this

http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/d5-photon-170-reservoirpump-combo-v2

Judging from the picture of how it is attached to the 360mm radiator.



Imagine your space up front with a 240mm radiator. You may run into an issue with space with a 360mm up top.

Try to refer to all the pictures of Evolv ATX builds in this thread and see how reservoirs are mounted and you can get a better idea


----------



## Granpa

Example of space constraint


----------



## blarf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Granpa*
> 
> Example of space constraint


I see.....humm...gotta do a little bit more research then as far as that component goes. How tall is thast reservoir+pump?


----------



## kevindd992002

What tool would you use to cut the horizontal brackets in between the PCIe slot covers?


----------



## alanthecelt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What tool would you use to cut the horizontal brackets in between the PCIe slot covers?


i used a dremel wiith a cut off disk


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanthecelt*
> 
> i used a dremel wiith a cut off disk


Will this tool work instead? http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/discontinued-products/nibbler-tool

I know this tool is also used for case modding but not sure particularly what for.


----------



## Granpa

I believe the metal is thin enough that you can use shears to cut it.


----------



## Rooke

I couldn't find this on the thread.
Is there room for an extra 120 fan in the front added to the existing 2 x 140? Many thanks?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Will this tool work instead? http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/discontinued-products/nibbler-tool
> 
> I know this tool is also used for case modding but not sure particularly what for.


I use Klein nibbler to finish out cuts or remove grills. It does a nice clean cut but it only 'nibbles' off a couple mm square each time you squeeze it so take a lot of squeezes to cut a full opening. I find I need a straight edge clamped to panel to run nibbler against to get a nice straight line cut.

Like Grandpa said,, but I usually use left, right and straight as well as aviation snips with different offset configurations (have 8 different snips) to cut most holes.

I often use jigsaw with very fine tooth blades (0.7 to 1.1 pitch/24 to 32 teeth per inch). The finer the better. Often clamp panel between two pieces of wood to keep it from flexing while cutting with jigsaw.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I use Klein nibbler to finish out cuts or remove grills. It does a nice clean cut but it only 'nibbles' off a couple mm square each time you squeeze it so take a lot of squeezes to cut a full opening. I find I need a straight edge clamped to panel to run nibbler against to get a nice straight line cut.


I remembered realizing this also before. I'm hoping I can use it to just cut off those horizontal pci-e slot covers though.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I remembered realizing this also before. I'm hoping I can use it to just cut off those horizontal pci-e slot covers though.


Should work well.


----------



## Granpa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rooke*
> 
> I couldn't find this on the thread.
> Is there room for an extra 120 fan in the front added to the existing 2 x 140? Many thanks?


There is no space for a 120mm fan if u use the 2 x 140 in the mounting holes. U can opt for 3 x 120.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Should work well.


I guess I can also use that to "widen" the space for in the PSU shroud for my 280mm GTS to fit?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rooke*
> 
> I couldn't find this on the thread.
> Is there room for an extra 120 fan in the front added to the existing 2 x 140? Many thanks?


No.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I guess I can also use that to "widen" the space for in the PSU shroud for my 280mm GTS to fit?


Maybe, but it wouid be a lot of work.


----------



## MoDeNa

Hi guys,

I'm thinking in water cooling my rig (i7 5820k with OC at 4 Ghz, Asus GTX 1080 Ti Strix and an Asus X99A-USB 3.1). The idea is to put a EK PE 360 in the front and an EK PE 240 in the top, a D5 with reservoir and all with hard tubing 16/12.

I wonder if this is the best option to cool my rig and if the temps are going to be good enough, with minimun noise possible. I have to say that a I've done the top mod, so the hot aire will not recirculate in my case.

Any advise or recommendation on my WC configuration?

Many thanks in advance


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoDeNa*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I'm thinking in water cooling my rig (i7 5820k with OC at 4 Ghz, Asus GTX 1080 Ti Strix and an Asus X99A-USB 3.1). The idea is to put a EK PE 360 in the front and an EK PE 240 in the top, a D5 with reservoir and all with hard tubing 16/12.
> 
> I wonder if this is the best option to cool my rig and if the temps are going to be good enough, with minimun noise possible. I have to say that a I've done the top mod, so the hot aire will not recirculate in my case.
> 
> Any advise or recommendation on my WC configuration?
> 
> Many thanks in advance


Scroll thru the pics is my suggestion. Everyone and their mom has this case now. I took mine apart as a result lol.


----------



## MoDeNa

Thanks for your comment. After scrolling through the pics that is the idea I have but my main concern is air flow restriction in the front and how could afect WC performance.


----------



## Granpa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoDeNa*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I'm thinking in water cooling my rig (i7 5820k with OC at 4 Ghz, Asus GTX 1080 Ti Strix and an Asus X99A-USB 3.1). The idea is to put a EK PE 360 in the front and an EK PE 240 in the top, a D5 with reservoir and all with hard tubing 16/12.
> 
> I wonder if this is the best option to cool my rig and if the temps are going to be good enough, with minimun noise possible. I have to say that a I've done the top mod, so the hot aire will not recirculate in my case.
> 
> Any advise or recommendation on my WC configuration?
> 
> Many thanks in advance


In my opinion, if you have already decided to fit a 360 up front (sacrificing the hdd bays)

1) You may well go for dual 360s (top and front)

2) top mod, if you wish to go one step further, you can mod the front at the expense of aesthetics.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoDeNa*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I'm thinking in water cooling my rig (i7 5820k with OC at 4 Ghz, Asus GTX 1080 Ti Strix and an Asus X99A-USB 3.1). The idea is to put a EK PE 360 in the front and an EK PE 240 in the top, a D5 with reservoir and all with hard tubing 16/12.
> 
> *I wonder if this is the best option to cool my rig and if the temps are going to be good enough, with minimun noise possible.* I have to say that a I've done the top mod, so the hot aire will not recirculate in my case.
> 
> Any advise or recommendation on my WC configuration?
> 
> Many thanks in advance


It's not. HWL GTS rads have better low noise performance than the EK PE, and perform as well at high fan speeds. And do it in a much slimmer package, which gives you far more working room for other components.

Also, the 360 up top and 240 in the front is a much cleaner looking setup.


----------



## bellyflopdog

I have an HWL SR2 360 in the front of my case. It cools a 5930k and a gtx 1070ftw . Idle coolant temp averages 29C and during a heavy gaming session it's never been higher than 35C.


----------



## MoDeNa

Thank you very much for your comments. I will have a look at the HWL GTS, so as they are thinner than the EK PE, as you guys say, I can fit two of them in my case. I need to re-think again my WC config then.

keep you updated!

Cheers!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoDeNa*
> 
> Thank you very much for your comments. I will have a look at the HWL GTS, so as they are thinner than the EK PE, as you guys say, I can fit two of them in my case. I need to re-think again my WC config then.
> 
> keep you updated!
> 
> Cheers!


In your setup, going with two 360 rather that 360+240 gains you nothing but install aggravation. You won't see a performance difference in normal usage.


----------



## MoDeNa

So the best option would be a GTS 360 in the top and a GTS 240 in the front or GTS 360 in front and GTS 240 in top in order to have possitve aire pressure?

To be honest, the world of WC is so large. After reading and reading I have lots of doubts (this will be my first WC).

Many thanks for your help, it is much appreciated.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoDeNa*
> 
> So the best option would be a GTS 360 in the top and a GTS 240 in the front or GTS 360 in front and GTS 240 in top in order to have possitve aire pressure?
> 
> To be honest, the world of WC is so large. After reading and reading I have lots of doubts (this will be my first WC).
> 
> Many thanks for your help, it is much appreciated.


no doubting yourself, just take your time, check your fittings/connections/blocks and you should be good. It's like writing, proof read your work before you publish/turn it in to be judged/graded. Not sure if this was mentioned earlier but try to make sure you have a drain port in your system.


----------



## MoDeNa

Thanks dude. I had in mind to include a drain port in the loop. I have almost all ready so once I receive and I've done it, I will share some pics.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoDeNa*
> 
> Thanks dude. I had in mind to include a drain port in the loop. I have almost all ready so once I receive and I've done it, I will share some pics.


Having a fill port also makes things easier.


----------



## migrained

Does anyone have pics on the "widened PSU shroud" to make a GTS 280 fit in front?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanthecelt*
> 
> 
> cooler master with li-heat riser cable


Which specific coolermaster mount and li-heat riser cable did you buy and use? AFAIK, there's the Ice Wolf and the regular vertical GPU mount for CM and there are a handful of types of Li-Heat cables.

The EZDIY cables have a latch on them that won't fit the regular CM vertical GPU mount, right?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *migrained*
> 
> Does anyone have pics on the "widened PSU shroud" to make a GTS 280 fit in front?


----------



## Nonehxc

Hello fellow overclockas,

Long story short, I got this case a few months ago to hold my chips, and few days ago I was able to get ahold of a Titan X Pascal EK waterblock and accompanying backplate cheapo, so I think it's time I do my first watercooling thingie in decades of Masterr Racing.









Halp pls?









So as I read, Nemesis GTS slim radiators are amazing and all, so I plan on getting a 360 and 240.

CPU blocks? They say EK Supremacy EVOS are good. What about the heatkiller IV? Or the Kryos Next? Alphacool XTX ones seems cheaper and good performers. Socket 1151

What is better? Pump/res combo or both? I like the looks of those pump/res combos from EK, but I'm afraid I may change it later, either the res or pump, or if the pump or res goes fit(ting)s up, I'll lose two parts instead of one, so...









I've put together this Watercooling build, so tell me what I could do better or change, chip-killer friendos











Thanks in advance and pray I don't kick my hardware to death hehehe


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nonehxc*
> 
> Hello fellow overclockas,
> 
> Long story short, I got this case a few months ago to hold my chips, and few days ago I was able to get ahold of a Titan X Pascal EK waterblock and accompanying backplate cheapo, so I think it's time I do my first watercooling thingie in decades of Masterr Racing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Halp pls?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So as I read, Nemesis GTS slim radiators are amazing and all, so I plan on getting a 360 and 240.
> 
> CPU blocks? They say EK Supremacy EVOS are good. What about the heatkiller IV? Or the Kryos Next? Alphacool XTX ones seems cheaper and good performers. Socket 1151
> 
> What is better? Pump/res combo or both? I like the looks of those pump/res combos from EK, but I'm afraid I may change it later, either the res or pump, or if the pump or res goes fit(ting)s up, I'll lose two parts instead of one, so...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've put together this Watercooling build, so tell me what I could do better or change, chip-killer friendos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance and pray I don't kick my hardware to death hehehe


Looks pretty good a couple changes...

I honestly cannot recommend Watercool products enough. I would stick with the IV Pro and maybe even swap out the EK res for a Heatkiller Tube 150. They sell a multiport top and have pretty good res to rad mounts.

I would also go with EK compression fittings. Better quality. An extra $10-20 for fittings isn't much in the end.


----------



## springs113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nonehxc*
> 
> Hello fellow overclockas,
> 
> Long story short, I got this case a few months ago to hold my chips, and few days ago I was able to get ahold of a Titan X Pascal EK waterblock and accompanying backplate cheapo, so I think it's time I do my first watercooling thingie in decades of Masterr Racing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Halp pls?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So as I read, Nemesis GTS slim radiators are amazing and all, so I plan on getting a 360 and 240.
> 
> CPU blocks? They say EK Supremacy EVOS are good. What about the heatkiller IV? Or the Kryos Next? Alphacool XTX ones seems cheaper and good performers. Socket 1151
> 
> What is better? Pump/res combo or both? I like the looks of those pump/res combos from EK, but I'm afraid I may change it later, either the res or pump, or if the pump or res goes fit(ting)s up, I'll lose two parts instead of one, so...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've put together this Watercooling build, so tell me what I could do better or change, chip-killer friendos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance and pray I don't kick my hardware to death hehehe


Paskowitz said it all. The only thing i disagree with us the ek compression fittings, unless ek changed their designs lately. I would go bitspower or barrow if attainable.


----------



## alanthecelt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Which specific coolermaster mount and li-heat riser cable did you buy and use? AFAIK, there's the Ice Wolf and the regular vertical GPU mount for CM and there are a handful of types of Li-Heat cables.
> 
> The EZDIY cables have a latch on them that won't fit the regular CM vertical GPU mount, right?


pretty sure i chose the one which had the cable coming off flat in relation to the bottom of the gpu
the coolermaster standard bracket had to have a little area ground away for the cable to fir through the slot


----------



## Granpa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanthecelt*
> 
> pretty sure i chose the one which had the cable coming off flat in relation to the bottom of the gpu
> the coolermaster standard bracket had to have a little area ground away for the cable to fir through the slot


I have the coolermaster bracket as well. Its important to choose the right extender cable.

I bought the 3M one and it would not fit without cutting the bracket due to the design of the cable.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nonehxc*
> 
> Hello fellow overclockas,
> 
> Long story short, I got this case a few months ago to hold my chips, and few days ago I was able to get ahold of a Titan X Pascal EK waterblock and accompanying backplate cheapo, so I think it's time I do my first watercooling thingie in decades of Masterr Racing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Halp pls?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So as I read, Nemesis GTS slim radiators are amazing and all, so I plan on getting a 360 and 240.
> 
> CPU blocks? They say EK Supremacy EVOS are good. What about the heatkiller IV? Or the Kryos Next? Alphacool XTX ones seems cheaper and good performers. Socket 1151
> 
> What is better? Pump/res combo or both? I like the looks of those pump/res combos from EK, but I'm afraid I may change it later, either the res or pump, or if the pump or res goes fit(ting)s up, I'll lose two parts instead of one, so...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've put together this Watercooling build, so tell me what I could do better or change, chip-killer friendos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance and pray I don't kick my hardware to death hehehe


I agree with @paskowitz on the IV Pro and switch to a Watercool (or XSPC or Monsoon MMRS) reservoir. Much nicer than the EK. But.....I agree with @springs113 on the fittings. I have EK, XSPC, Swiftech, Bitspower and Monsoon fittings around, and the EK are the last I would reach for to put in a build.


----------



## paskowitz

What is wrong with EK compression fittings? I've been using them for years without issue. Haven't seen any horror stories either. Genuinely curious.


----------



## Granpa

Example of what I needed to cut in my coolermaster vertical bracket to fit the 3m extender cable.

The parts circled in yellow was the issue


----------



## iobling

After reading almost all this thread i've decided it's time to come in.

At the moment i'm still undecided between this case, which is the most beatiful at the moment in my opinion, and the luxe, which offers a little more space at the cost of a less lovable exterior.

Keep in mind this will be my first custom loop (or any water experience at all) so i don't completly know what i'll be doing:ninja:
I'm going to a 360 up and a 240 on the front, for both cases, because i need at least 2 bay for hdd. I'm also thinking to use pump seperated from the reservoir, in order to have better flexibility and choices, since i'm looking also for a very quite pc like my actual air configuration.
My question is, is there any way to mount a pump and a reservoir without modify the case and keeping the hdd cage? I thought maybe to put the pump over the hdd and the reservoir in the back of the case, but i don't want to loose the fan and i also don't think it would be above the pump.

Any suggestion? I've read a lot of pages from this thread and if i've missed others with this configuration i'm sorry.
Is the evolv a good choice or is the luxe a better one? I've also lokked at the primo but, besides not having any tempered glass, it's giga-enormous


----------



## Granpa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iobling*
> 
> After reading almost all this thread i've decided it's time to come in.
> 
> At the moment i'm still undecided between this case, which is the most beatiful at the moment in my opinion, and the luxe, which offers a little more space at the cost of a less lovable exterior.
> 
> Keep in mind this will be my first custom loop (or any water experience at all) so i don't completly know what i'll be doing:ninja:
> I'm going to a 360 up and a 240 on the front, for both cases, because i need at least 2 bay for hdd. I'm also thinking to use pump seperated from the reservoir, in order to have better flexibility and choices, since i'm looking also for a very quite pc like my actual air configuration.
> My question is, is there any way to mount a pump and a reservoir without modify the case and keeping the hdd cage? I thought maybe to put the pump over the hdd and the reservoir in the back of the case, but i don't want to loose the fan and i also don't think it would be above the pump.
> 
> Any suggestion? I've read a lot of pages from this thread and if i've missed others with this configuration i'm sorry.
> Is the evolv a good choice or is the luxe a better one? I've also lokked at the primo but, besides not having any tempered glass, it's giga-enormous


You could do it separate but honestly the cleanest way is still a pump reservoir combo in order to retain the hdd Bay.

You can opt for a ddc pump combo as it is shorter in height vs a d5


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> What is wrong with EK compression fittings? I've been using them for years without issue. Haven't seen any horror stories either. Genuinely curious.


Nothing "wrong", really, but they are the lightest weight material and easiest to damage of those mentioned. Also, they use undersized o-rings and back put significantly easier than the others. In other words, they work, they just aren't as well done.


----------



## Granpa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Nothing "wrong", really, but they are the lightest weight material and easiest to damage of those mentioned. Also, they use undersized o-rings and back put significantly easier than the others. In other words, they work, they just aren't as well done.


Totally agree on the o ring part. Bitspower o ring was a Breeze to sit vs Ek


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Nothing "wrong", really, but they are the lightest weight material and easiest to damage of those mentioned. Also, they use undersized o-rings and back put significantly easier than the others. In other words, they work, they just aren't as well done.


I agree. Ek compression fittings feel beyond cheap. The compression ring easily scuffs and the finish even can come off on your hand just tightening. The treading ins't all that great either. I've hand many different compression fittings in the soft tube days. Enzotech (amazing quality on the compression) and bitspower felt great, xspc is pretty good too. The ek ones just felt like garbage total garbage.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Granpa*
> 
> Totally agree on the o ring part. Bitspower o ring was a Breeze to sit vs Ek


I swapped mine out to Monsoon o-rings I had on hand, and it helped. They still backed out too easy for my liking, thpugh.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanthecelt*
> 
> pretty sure i chose the one which had the cable coming off flat in relation to the bottom of the gpu
> 
> the coolermaster standard bracket had to have a little area ground away for the cable to fir through the slot


What do you mean "a little area ground away"?

And do the screw holes on the Li-Heat align with the screw holes on the bracket?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Granpa*
> 
> I have the coolermaster bracket as well. Its important to choose the right extender cable.
> 
> I bought the 3M one and it would not fit without cutting the bracket due to the design of the cable.


The EZDIY and Li-Heat cables all have that plastic at the end that would interfere with the bracket. Is it easy to cut off that bracket area that conflicts?


----------



## Granpa

Mine was waterblock o ring. Good lord that was a nightmare


----------



## paskowitz

Thanks for the replies. Good to know.


----------



## Granpa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What do you mean "a little area ground away"?
> 
> And do the screw holes on the Li-Heat align with the screw holes on the bracket?
> The EZDIY and Li-Heat cables all have that plastic at the end that would interfere with the bracket. Is it easy to cut off that bracket area that conflicts?


You need to extend the existing cutout around 5mm on both sides. However, the space required may vary among the different brands.

I used a dremel for cutting and it can be tricky to cut (but I am a dremel noob) due to the tight space.

For a easier way to mount, you can probably consider the Coolermaster Icewolf bracket which is just a backplate vs a L shape bracket. Do note that a watercooled GPU can be heavy so there will be sagging regardless.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Granpa*
> 
> You need to extend the existing cutout around 5mm on both sides. However, the space required may vary among the different brands.
> 
> I used a dremel for cutting and it can be tricky to cut (but I am a dremel noob) due to the tight space.
> 
> For a easier way to mount, you can probably consider the Coolermaster Icewolf bracket which is just a backplate vs a L shape bracket. Do note that a watercooled GPU can be heavy so there will be sagging regardless.


I thought you just need to cut the little piece of metal that stands upright and the cable should fit?

I did see the Icewolf but thought about sagging too. Woth the L-shaped bracket, you get proper GPU support, right?


----------



## Granpa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I thought you just need to cut the little piece of metal that stands upright and the cable should fit?
> 
> I did see the Icewolf but thought about sagging too. Woth the L-shaped bracket, you get proper GPU support, right?


Well for my case with the 3M riser, the issue was that the pcb for the riser is too long to fit into the coolermaster bracket cut out.

And the little piece of metal that stands upright actually helps to support the GPU, however there will still be a slight sag due to the weight of the waterblock. What I did was to use a leftover piece of PETG tube to prop it up at the base.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Granpa*
> 
> Well for my case with the 3M riser, the issue was that the pcb for the riser is too long to fit into the coolermaster bracket cut out.
> 
> And the little piece of metal that stands upright actually helps to support the GPU, however there will still be a slight sag due to the weight of the waterblock. What I did was to use a leftover piece of PETG tube to prop it up at the base.


Too long meaning the screw holes don't fit?

Ok. The Icewolf isn't available in the US, is it?


----------



## hockeyboy1002

Made my custom loop today. I have the first Threadripper custom loop from what I've seen at all







.
I'm waiting on a hubby7 that comes Wednesday, Custom length cables are ordered and should be shipping soon.
I have Primochill sysprep running now while leak testing, and then will be running mayhems blitz part 2 tomorrow.
I have fittings ordered from performance-pcs to redo some of the runs and make them cleaner.
Once the loop/rads are clean I will be putting in my ice dragon nano fluid in.


----------



## Granpa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Too long meaning the screw holes don't fit?
> 
> Ok. The Icewolf isn't available in the US, is it?


No mate, see my picture on the previous pages.

Not sure about the availability, I got my bracket at a local store.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Granpa*
> 
> No mate, see my picture on the previous pages.
> 
> Not sure about the availability, I got my bracket at a local store.


Yeah, I did see your pictures but the one interferring there were the small plastic ends on the riser itself. So there are no problems with the screw holes themselves, right? They align perfectly?


----------



## Granpa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Yeah, I did see your pictures but the one interferring there were the small plastic ends on the riser itself. So there are no problems with the screw holes themselves, right? They align perfectly?


Sorry mate, my extender cable connector is a flat type, the screw holes will not even be able to fit.

Flat


Angled


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Granpa*
> 
> Sorry mate, my extender cable connector is a flat type, the screw holes will not even be able to fit.
> 
> Flat
> 
> 
> Angled


Ok, I see what you're saying now. Thanks!


----------



## Granpa

Changed my setup a little.
Added uv lights and coolant


----------



## RyuBlade94

Hello everyone! Ever since i built my watercooled loop in the evolv (with proper mods for airflow), i've been running 2x120mm fans intake in the front (where one of my 2 rads is), 3x120mm exhaust fans up top (where the 360mm rad is) and in the back of the case a 120mm exhaust fan. Anyways just now i removed the filter up top (i modded the top panel by cutting out a big portion of it and applying a mesh, and under the mesh i had an actual filter) to cool down stuff even more, or at least check if it would make any difference.
I was wondering if i should swap out the back fan and get is as intake fan.. what do you guys think, should i swap it out the other way around? Thanks in advance!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyuBlade94*
> 
> Hello everyone! Ever since i built my watercooled loop in the evolv (with proper mods for airflow), i've been running 2x120mm fans intake in the front (where one of my 2 rads is), 3x120mm exhaust fans up top (where the 360mm rad is) and in the back of the case a 120mm exhaust fan. Anyways just now i removed the filter up top (i modded the top panel by cutting out a big portion of it and applying a mesh, and under the mesh i had an actual filter) to cool down stuff even more, or at least check if it would make any difference.
> I was wondering if i should swap out the back fan and get is as intake fan.. what do you guys think, should i swap it out the other way around? Thanks in advance!


My Evolv is air-cooled so no actual experience with radiators in Evolv.
But I do understand airflow 2x 120mm front fan on radiator intake and 3x 120mm on radiator top exhaust top 3x fans are usign 50% more air then front can supply in a perfect world. Using rear as exhaust is only making it worse. Possible problem with using rear fan as intake is it might draw warm air from top exhaust. I would try it intake and unplugged to see what works best.

I wonder if using top as intake with front as exhaust and back fan not running might cool better.


----------



## RyuBlade94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> My Evolv is air-cooled so no actual experience with radiators in Evolv.
> But I do understand airflow 2x 120mm front fan on radiator intake and 3x 120mm on radiator top exhaust top 3x fans are usign 50% more air then front can supply in a perfect world. Using rear as exhaust is only making it worse. Possible problem with using rear fan as intake is it might draw warm air from top exhaust. I would try it intake and unplugged to see what works best.
> 
> I wonder if using top as intake with front as exhaust and back fan not running might cool better.


So, i tried reverting the rear fan, putting it as an intake.. cooling wise, it seems to be quite better. CPU and GPU seem to have their max temps lowered by 2°C-ish and, most importantly, they are reaching those temps with more difficulty. This way, dust-wise, it should be all good, since 3 fans are intake and 3 fans are exhaust at this point.

I didn't really test the system with the fan off, but since i'm already seeing gains, I'll keep my system this way for now! Thanks @doyll


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyuBlade94*
> 
> So, i tried reverting the rear fan, putting it as an intake.. cooling wise, it seems to be quite better. CPU and GPU seem to have their max temps lowered by 2°C-ish and, most importantly, they are reaching those temps with more difficulty. This way, dust-wise, it should be all good, since 3 fans are intake and 3 fans are exhaust at this point.
> 
> I didn't really test the system with the fan off, but since i'm already seeing gains, I'll keep my system this way for now! Thanks @doyll


Using the rear fan as intake has shown to work really well on cases with vented tops. You may want to try sealing off the rear vent above the fan, as well. This would prevent any rad exhaust from getting sucked back in. It may give a small improvement.


----------



## RyuBlade94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Using the rear fan as intake has shown to work really well on cases with vented tops. You may want to try sealing off the rear vent above the fan, as well. This would prevent any rad exhaust from getting sucked back in. It may give a small improvement.


This is very nice to know! I'll give that a try too! Thanks for the tip


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nonehxc*
> 
> What is better? Pump/res combo or both? I like the looks of those pump/res combos from EK, but I'm afraid I may change it later, either the res or pump, or if the pump or res goes fit(ting)s up, I'll lose two parts instead of one, so...


At least with the EK xres Revo D5 combo, should you want to seperate them or one goes out, it's simply a pump top away from making them 2 seperate units.

I asked ek about this when I got mine. They confirmed the pump top is all I'd need in order to seperate them.


https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-d5-plexi


----------



## Granpa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> At least with the EK xres Revo D5 combo, should you want to seperate them or one goes out, it's simply a pump top away from making them 2 seperate units.
> 
> I asked ek about this when I got mine. They confirmed the pump top is all I'd need in order to seperate them.
> 
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-d5-plexi


I believe the bitspower pump / res combo are the same. Just change the top adapter.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> At least with the EK xres Revo D5 combo, should you want to seperate them or one goes out, it's simply a pump top away from making them 2 seperate units.
> 
> I asked ek about this when I got mine. They confirmed the pump top is all I'd need in order to seperate them.
> 
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-d5-plexi


Adding a top gets you a working pump with *ANY* pump/rex combo. What do you have when you separate a combo? You have a pump without a top. Nothing brand specific about that.

On the other hand....you also have a res with no bottom. Despite EK's assurances, when you remove the pump, the res will not work without buying a new top/bottom for it.


----------



## MoDeNa

Hi guys,

I finally ordered the following stuff for my WC config:

2 x Black Ice Nemesis GTS 360 Radiators
6 x NoiseBlockers eLoop B12-PS
1 x EKWB Asus X99 Monoblock
1 x EKWB Asus GTX 1080 Ti Strix block (nickel)
1 x EKWB Asus GTX 1080 Ti Strix backplate (nickel)
1 x EKWB XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. sleeved pump)
All with EK PETG 16-12 tube with its fittings in nickel

I can't wait to receive all the material and starting to build my first WC config.

Many thanks all for your advices and tips!

I will post some pics once I finish it.


----------



## Granpa

Refer to singularity computers recent YouTube video on how he mod his top tray to fit fans on top. You may find that configuration useful if you have a modded top panel.

I believe it will allow you much more room to fit 2 x 360 rads

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoDeNa*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I finally ordered the following stuff for my WC config:
> 
> 2 x Black Ice Nemesis GTS 360 Radiators
> 6 x NoiseBlockers eLoop B12-PS
> 1 x EKWB Asus X99 Monoblock
> 1 x EKWB Asus GTX 1080 Ti Strix block (nickel)
> 1 x EKWB Asus GTX 1080 Ti Strix backplate (nickel)
> 1 x EKWB XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. sleeved pump)
> All with EK PETG 16-12 tube with its fittings in nickel
> 
> I can't wait to receive all the material and starting to build my first WC config.
> 
> Many thanks all for your advices and tips!
> 
> I will post some pics once I finish it.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Granpa*
> 
> Refer to singularity computers recent YouTube video on how he mod his top tray to fit fans on top. You may find that configuration useful if you have a modded top panel.
> 
> I believe it will allow you much more room to fit 2 x 360 rads


Do you have a link? I have a modded top panel from ModMyMods and I'm not sure if I still need this Singularity Computers mod you're referring to. Will it produce better temps if my plan is to put a 360 rad up top and a 280 rad in front?


----------



## Granpa

Hmm, it is one of their more recent videos. Silver tide build I believe.

The mod is to the top sliding radiator tray. It allows you to mount the fans on top of radiator instead of bottom, which gives a better look visually and also more room.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Do you have a link? I have a modded top panel from ModMyMods and I'm not sure if I still need this Singularity Computers mod you're referring to. Will it produce better temps if my plan is to put a 360 rad up top and a 280 rad in front?


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Do you have a link? I have a modded top panel from ModMyMods and I'm not sure if I still need this Singularity Computers mod you're referring to. Will it produce better temps if my plan is to put a 360 rad up top and a 280 rad in front?


Link for mod as mentioned


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Link for mod as mentioned


Thanks. I just don't know if that mod is all worth it. Doea it even improve temps or just looks?


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Thanks. I just don't know if that mod is all worth it. Doea it even improve temps or just looks?


I cant see it improving temps unless you mod the top lid to allow hot air to escape from the top


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> I cant see it improving temps unless you mod the top lid to allow hot air to escape from the top


I have the modded top panel from ModMyMods


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I have the modded top panel from ModMyMods


If you had a thicker radiator (say 60mm or thicker) then being able to set things up in push/pull with that mod then I could see a benefit in temps. Personally I would like to mod my top the way this one has been done, wonder if modmymods could do it?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> If you had a thicker radiator (say 60mm or thicker) then being able to set things up in push/pull with that mod then I could see a benefit in temps. Personally I would like to mod my top the way this one has been done, wonder if modmymods could do it?


Nope, I'll be using GTS rads so those are as thin as it can get. And I won't do push/pull. So no benefits in temps, right?

I would think MMM can do it as a custom job. I would ask them though.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Link for mod as mentioned


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Thanks. I just don't know if that mod is all worth it. Doea it even improve temps or just looks?


I doubt if it helps cooling unless top is is modified with more venting. It may even lower airflow because of how much closer to top the fans are. Fans need about 40mm or more to have similar airflow area as fans have. This link shows what I mean. It was done to show how case bottom fan need more clearance, but applies to tops like Evolv ATX as well.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-Fractal Designs Meshifycooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22657923


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I doubt if it helps cooling unless top is is modified with more venting. It may even lower airflow because of how much closer to top the fans are. Fans need about 40mm or more to have similar airflow area as fans have. This link shows what I mean. It was done to show how case bottom fan need more clearance, but applies to tops like Evolv ATX as well.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-Fractal Designs Meshifycooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22657923


I was kinda waiting for your reply. Thanks for confirming!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I was kinda waiting for your reply. Thanks for confirming!


As @doyll said, it hinders cooling unless the top is nodded to be just about completely open.


----------



## paskowitz

There is no need to do that mod as long as you have the top rad ports on the left, and the front rad ports on the bottom. Rear fan delete or slim fan.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> There is no need to do that mod as long as you have the top rad ports on the left, and the front rad ports on the bottom. Rear fan delete or slim fan.


And that's assuming 2 x 360mm rads, right?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> And that's assuming 2 x 360mm rads, right?


2x 360x30mm rads. HWL GTS for example. NYC GTR's old build is a good reference. IIRC he used a Cryorig slim fan in the back.

You could get just about equal performance from a 360 GTX front and a 280 GTS top, but that doesn't look quite as balanced.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> 2x 360x30mm rads. HWL GTS for example. NYC GTR's old build is a good reference. IIRC he used a Cryorig slim fan in the back.
> 
> You could get just about equal performance from a 360 GTX front and a 280 GTS top, but that doesn't look quite as balanced.


But a 360GTS top and 280GTS front actually looks more balanced than two 360GTS, if you are willing to mod the midplate.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Or just a 360 & 240 GTS


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> 2x 360x30mm rads. HWL GTS for example. NYC GTR's old build is a good reference. IIRC he used a Cryorig slim fan in the back.
> 
> You could get just about equal performance from a 360 GTX front and a 280 GTS top, but that doesn't look quite as balanced.


Right, I remember his build. If you remember our discussion through PM, I actually went with 1 x 360mm GTS and 1 x 280mm GTS so you guys are right when you say that I don't need that mod done by Singularity Computers. I'm still waiting for all parts to arrive in my country though (and even try to wait for Coffee Lake).


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Right, I remember his build. If you remember our discussion through PM, I actually went with 1 x 360mm GTS and 1 x 280mm GTS so you guys are right when you say that I don't need that mod done by Singularity Computers. I'm still waiting for all parts to arrive in my country though (and even try to wait for Coffee Lake).


Durp.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Durp.


Because of waiting for CL? All my 7700K parts will arrive here at around 3rd week of September. CL will be released early October so that's not a long time to wait, is it?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Because of waiting for CL? All my 7700K parts will arrive here at around 3rd week of September. CL will be released early October so that's not a long time to wait, is it?


Not really, no. CL will likely be worth waiting for. 2 more cores for a marginal price increase. Sure makes more sense than the perf/$ mess that is X299.

Unless you can get a 7770K and a nice mobo (Code, Formula, Extreme, Apex, etc) on the very cheap (<$500 total) and don't need the 2 extra cores, waiting is the right call.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Not really, no. CL will likely be worth waiting for. 2 more cores for a marginal price increase. Sure makes more sense than the perf/$ mess that is X299.
> 
> Unless you can get a 7770K and a nice mobo (Code, Formula, Extreme, Apex, etc) on the very cheap (<$500 total) and don't need the 2 extra cores, waiting is the right call.


I completely agree. The only problem is that I already bought a 7700K and a Hero that I cannot return because they're already on their way here. So my real dilemma is choosing between selling these brand new parts here and getting a CL or just go ahead and use them (which I will surely regret if CL is what they say it is).


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would just stick with KL and wait to see what the next socket's performance really is. X299 is a huge waste, ticked at Intel with the 7820x since with Haswell-E & Broadwell-E we got at least 40 lanes with the 5939/6850k's and now lose 12 lanes with the new generation.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I would just stick with KL and wait to see what the next socket's performance really is. X299 is a huge waste, ticked at Intel with the 7820x since with Haswell-E & Broadwell-E we got at least 40 lanes with the 5939/6850k's and now lose 12 lanes with the new generation.


Next socket as in 115v2 or what's coming after that? Sorry, off topic.


----------



## paskowitz

I completely agree with Darth. Since you already have the parts, no point in upgrading. It's only worth it if you have DC or older or no PC. I'd wait for Ice/Cannonlake. We should see IPC increase AND 6 cores there. ATM it looks like CL is very similar to KL core to core.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I completely agree with Darth. Since you already have the parts, no point in upgrading. It's only worth it if you have DC or older or no PC. I'd wait for Ice/Cannonlake. We should see IPC increase AND 6 cores there. ATM it looks like CL is very similar to KL core to core.


I guess. I would have the parts pretty soon but are still yet to be opened. I figured I still wait for the official release of the CL and decide from there.


----------



## Aby67

Would be really nice if at Phanteks they started to get rid of so many unnecessary holes in the motherboard panel and flatten it out, so to host all size motherboards...also it would be about time that all case manufacturers allowed space for stalling 180mm fan radiators, EK and XSPC make fantastic ones, with the latter giving perfect ports on all the sides of the radiator so to reduce tubing*(that only retains heat)...I truly do NOT understand why they are all pushing the 120x360 radiator agenda, when there is more than enough room in the case size to be capable of hosting 30mmx180mmx360mm dual rads, that are capable enough to dissipate heat for a 4 gpu set up.
That being said it would take just a few details to make this case so much better instead of a heat trap monster, i guess if thermaltake (coughs), will opt for a 4 mm aluminium set up in their new view 71 TG, this evolve who is anyhow at end of cycle would have a very hard time to sell at all anymore at all...and I am really not a thermaltake fan, I always really liked Phanteks work, but there was always that little detail that they keep of old time chassis made in mentality china*, that i could have not ever digested.

*typical 90s/2010 form factor standards and air intakes, just removing hard drive cages

This case could easily host dual socket motherboards and have plenty of room for storage and pumps.

As for the cooling...if you are into overclocking, and HEDT or workstation class power output, just make an external waterbox as no matter what You will always get 10 degrees lower temps, longer times to stabilization, faster times in reducing temps when back to idle, than even a Phanteks elite will ever give.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aby67*
> 
> Would be really nice if at Phanteks they started to get rid of so many unnecessary holes in the motherboard panel and flatten it out, so to host all size motherboards...also it would be about time that all case manufacturers allowed space for stalling 180mm fan radiators, EK and XSPC make fantastic ones, with the latter giving perfect ports on all the sides of the radiator so to reduce tubing*(that only retains heat)...I truly do NOT understand why they are all pushing the 120x360 radiator agenda, when there is more than enough room in the case size to be capable of hosting 30mmx180mmx360mm dual rads, that are capable enough to dissipate heat for a 4 gpu set up.
> That being said it would take just a few details to make this case so much better instead of a heat trap monster, i guess if thermaltake (coughs), will opt for a 4 mm aluminium set up in their new view 71 TG, this evolve who is anyhow at end of cycle would have a very hard time to sell at all anymore at all...and I am really not a thermaltake fan, I always really liked Phanteks work, but there was always that little detail that they keep of old time chassis made in mentality china*, that i could have not ever digested.
> 
> *typical 90s/2010 form factor standards and air intakes, just removing hard drive cages
> 
> This case could easily host dual socket motherboards and have plenty of room for storage and pumps.
> 
> As for the cooling...if you are into overclocking, and HEDT or workstation class power output, just make an external waterbox as no matter what You will always get 10 degrees lower temps, longer times to stabilization, faster times in reducing temps when back to idle, than even a Phanteks elite will ever give.


The "one size fits all' is a myth.
Those who have used anything termalfake rarely use anything from them again for good reason, but if you feel their 4mm aluminum is what you want, go for it.
What is this'old time chassis made in mentality china' that you could have nevcer digested' all about?

What case isn't 'typical 90s/2010 form factor'?

Not unless they made case bigger .. and then it's nto the same case.
'External waterbox' is last century tech.

Gotta love the 'no matter what .. get 10 degrees lower temp' garbage mentality.


----------



## Codewerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> If you had a thicker radiator (say 60mm or thicker) then being able to set things up in push/pull with that mod then I could see a benefit in temps. Personally I would like to mod my top the way this one has been done, wonder if modmymods could do it?


i want to warn you, if you are planning on doing the same or a similar mod. You will need to paint the holes or clean/sand them one by one, after the drilling the holes on my case had various shades of gray.
At the end i had to paint them i used a spray can and painted them from the backside.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Codewerk*
> 
> i want to warn you, if you are planning on doing the same or a similar mod. You will need to paint the holes or clean/sand them one by one, after the drilling the holes on my case had various shades of gray.
> At the end i had to paint them i used a spray can and painted them from the backside.


Thanks for the heads up







yeah might drill the holes myself but since my case is black paint would probably be my best bet, oh and congrats on your mod looks great


----------



## Aby67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The "one size fits all' is a myth.
> Those who have used anything termalfake rarely use anything from them again for good reason, but if you feel their 4mm aluminum is what you want, go for it.
> What is this'old time chassis made in mentality china' that you could have nevcer digested' all about?
> 
> What case isn't 'typical 90s/2010 form factor'?
> 
> Not unless they made case bigger .. and then it's not the same case.
> 'External waterbox' is last century tech.
> 
> Gotta love the 'no matter what .. get 10 degrees lower temp' garbage mentality.


1.On size fits all, is not so much of a myth, in the case of the evolve, if the frame was properly adapted, it could host twin 360x180mm radiators 30mm thick, which can effectively cool a 180 tdp Threadripper and 4 High end GPU at full load.....on top of that the evolve uses the same motherboard plate as the P400, only that it has a recess that wont allow to drop in a dual socket motherboard which in theory it can....if they made this case 2 centimeters longer and taller or with better optimization on the radiator mounts, it could host dual XSPC 45mm think rads 180x360 wide, and You would still have a relatively compact case as powerful as the NVIDIA DGX workstation (very intelligent design) in a smaller form factor with 2000watt PSU, for those like Me who are into CG and 3d VFX.

2. I am not a fan of Thermaltake at all, but this view 71 TG case is actually a very good design, which allows to mount wider 180mm radiators, which increases your heat dissipation capacity by 50%, without having to use massive chassis which in My opinion are a thing of the past..

3. Made in china mentality, is all about, google ALIBABA and browse for computer chassis, and it should not suprise You if You see almost all of computer chassis We are offered listed there, without the brand name at 1 tenth of the price....Now Phanteks is a great company with a good product because of detail, however a lot of their FORM FACTOR size is pretty much the same as the made in china stuff, which is where they likely get their case internal frame done (thus the big mistake of not designing the 120x360 dual radiator in the evolve, which it can actually accommodate, with just better screw and radiator mounts).
4.For You maybe decoupling the radiators system is old school, but for me that i do sometimes have my machine working at full load a week or two non stop 24/7 for rendering work its the smart way to go, I could have used a big case labs case, but I would have in no way have got better heat dissipation that having radiators mounted externally and then would have had that mammouth 1960s representation of a computer to place somewhere that didnt bother...You need to acknowledge that having dust filters, and radiators as air intake, does NOT help all other radiators to have the freshest of air...that being said, I can totally agree that for most users, it is best to have a compact case that does all the job...

We all want compact HEDT cases, why is it that every time You cant fit stuff for a question of a few SAME millimeters...have You asked yourself this question ever? Didnt You know that they all go pretty much to the same chassis factories in china?!....its the same frame templates over and over and over, with a different cover most of the time.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aby67*
> 
> 1.On size fits all, is not so much of a myth, in the case of the evolve, if the frame was properly adapted, it could host twin 360x180mm radiators 30mm thick, which can effectively cool a 180 tdp Threadripper and 4 High end GPU at full load.....on top of that the evolve uses the same motherboard plate as the P400, only that it has a recess that wont allow to drop in a dual socket motherboard which in theory it can....if they made this case 2 centimeters longer and taller or with better optimization on the radiator mounts, it could host dual XSPC 45mm think rads 180x360 wide, and You would still have a relatively compact case as powerful as the NVIDIA DGX workstation (very intelligent design) in a smaller form factor with 2000watt PSU, for those like Me who are into CG and 3d VFX.
> 
> 2. I am not a fan of Thermaltake at all, but this view 71 TG case is actually a very good design, which allows to mount wider 180mm radiators, which increases your heat dissipation capacity by 50%, without having to use massive chassis which in My opinion are a thing of the past..
> 
> 3. Made in china mentality, is all about, google ALIBABA and browse for computer chassis, and it should not suprise You if You see almost all of computer chassis We are offered listed there, without the brand name at 1 tenth of the price....Now Phanteks is a great company with a good product because of detail, however a lot of their FORM FACTOR size is pretty much the same as the made in china stuff, which is where they likely get their case internal frame done (thus the big mistake of not designing the 120x360 dual radiator in the evolve, which it can actually accommodate, with just better screw and radiator mounts).
> 4.For You maybe decoupling the radiators system is old school, but for me that i do sometimes have my machine working at full load a week or two non stop 24/7 for rendering work its the smart way to go, I could have used a big case labs case, but I would have in no way have got better heat dissipation that having radiators mounted externally and then would have had that mammouth 1960s representation of a computer to place somewhere that didnt bother...You need to acknowledge that having dust filters, and radiators as air intake, does NOT help all other radiators to have the freshest of air...that being said, I can totally agree that for most users, it is best to have a compact case that does all the job...
> 
> We all want compact HEDT cases, why is it that every time You cant fit stuff for a question of a few SAME millimeters...have You asked yourself this question ever? Didnt You know that they all go pretty much to the same chassis factories in china?!....its the same frame templates over and over and over, with a different cover most of the time.


You really believe a 360x180mm radiator will cool a CPU and 4x GPUs? If you do there isn't much any of use can try and explain to you.
You really believe the Evolv ATX uses same motherboard tray as P400? Based on that, all ATX motherboard trays are basically the same.

Like I said, if you want to go so low as to use Thermalfake, go for it.

Some of the best products in the world are now made in China, so no idea what you are on about 'made in china mentality.' Can you plese post links showing ALIBABA selling cases for 1/10th the price we normally see? It's very hard to read what you write with all the random caps and punctuation.
No, most are not 'pretty much same chassis from china'.
If you can accommidate 2x 360 radiator with a few new holes, what's the problem?

There are many other good case that will accommodate 2x 360 or even bigger radiators that work much better than Evolv ATX can and are not near as bigg a CaseLabs big cases are. Maybe you should be looking at them instead? Trying to compare 1960's computers to todays' computers is not rational. 1960s computers were may times bigger (and many times less powerful) than even the biggest custom home computer cases now are.

i consider most Phanteks cases as mid to small size HEDT (high end desktop) Only Enthoo Primo and Entho Elite are what I would call big cases.

If you want compact cases you have to compromise on how much radiator they will accommodate. Evolv ATX may be the bigger Evolv case, but it is still not even a mid-size case when compared to Enthoo Luxe, Pro, or even Pro M.

Sorry, but it seems you want limousine space inside a Focus .. and that is not possible.

I understand you wanting changes to fit your specific needs .. and I have never had a case there were not things I would have done differently than they were. But I have to say Phanteks cases fit more of these niche needs and are better qualtiy then almost all others.

If Phanteks made the changes to Evolv ATX you want, then there would be someone else wanting a few more mm here or there or more mounting holes .. and pretty soon we have a Primo or Elite size case with people wanting it to be smaller with something else added/removed. It's an unending case mod scenario .. like trying to build the best custom house .. it can't be done.


----------



## Aby67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You really believe a 360x180mm radiator will cool a CPU and 4x GPUs? If you do there isn't much any of use can try and explain to you.
> You really believe the Evolv ATX uses same motherboard tray as P400? Based on that, all ATX motherboard trays are basically the same.
> 
> Like I said, if you want to go so low as to use Thermalfake, go for it.
> 
> Some of the best products in the world are now made in China, so no idea what you are on about 'made in china mentality.' Can you plese post links showing ALIBABA selling cases for 1/10th the price we normally see? It's very hard to read what you write with all the random caps and punctuation.
> No, most are not 'pretty much same chassis from china'.
> If you can accommidate 2x 360 radiator with a few new holes, what's the problem?
> 
> There are many other good case that will accommodate 2x 360 or even bigger radiators that work much better than Evolv ATX can and are not near as bigg a CaseLabs big cases are. Maybe you should be looking at them instead? Trying to compare 1960's computers to todays' computers is not rational. 1960s computers were may times bigger (and many times less powerful) than even the biggest custom home computer cases now are.
> 
> i consider most Phanteks cases as mid to small size HEDT (high end desktop) Only Enthoo Primo and Entho Elite are what I would call big cases.
> 
> If you want compact cases you have to compromise on how much radiator they will accommodate. Evolv ATX may be the bigger Evolv case, but it is still not even a mid-size case when compared to Enthoo Luxe, Pro, or even Pro M.
> 
> Sorry, but it seems you want limousine space inside a Focus .. and that is not possible.
> 
> I understand you wanting changes to fit your specific needs .. and I have never had a case there were not things I would have done differently than they were. But I have to say Phanteks cases fit more of these niche needs and are better qualtiy then almost all others.
> 
> If Phanteks made the changes to Evolv ATX you want, then there would be someone else wanting a few more mm here or there or more mounting holes .. and pretty soon we have a Primo or Elite size case with people wanting it to be smaller with something else added/removed. It's an unending case mod scenario .. like trying to build the best custom house .. it can't be done.


Ehm....

Just fr the record, maybe If You read posts properly, I never mentioned 1 radiator BUT 2 360x180.....they will cool properly 4 gpus and a cpu at full load, given the fact, that I actually doing this with a couple of XSPC rads of this size.

As for china manufacturing, I never really discussed quality, even if We can perfectly argue about that as well, chinese deliver best price possible...that being said, they work on same templates and this is why I am trying to explain in this post, that as the Evolve many other pc cases pretty much have the same few millimeters here and there issues when You need to mount stuff in them.....as for the Evolve and p400, all You need to do is strip both cases down leaving only the bare frame just to see that the evolve frame, is a modified P400, as it has the MB plate recess design, which is basically a bend, of the same metal sheet, with an adapted PSU shroud to screw it on....You can manufacture any kind of quality You want in china, but what You need to keep in mind is that case retailers aim at a least 1000% gross mark up, so in the case of the evolve, it is a piece that costs to Phanteks approx 15 dollars a piece fully finished and shipped...which is fine for Me, as I support companies making good margins and good profit, if they have a good product.....unfortunately in the case of the Evolve ATX, while i find it really aesthetically pleasing, a better cut of the tempered glass, would have definitely given much better air intake without compromising the design style, better top cover housing would have fixed hot air exhaust,and only few millimeters difference, would have allowed to mount dual simple 120x360 rads without having to do a Singularity computers like tedious mod....
This is why I am mentioning Chinese manufacturing, because no matter what, unless a case manufacturer sells tens of thousands of one chassis, they will all go to the chinese and have their BASE template chassis adapted to HOST they external covers, which in the case of the evolve ATX is two pieces of Aluminium and two pieces of tempered glass, with lazer holes designed to host their caddies.

What I am personally complaining about is, that there is NOT one single PC case on the market,in my opinion that has great aesthetics, great functionality, and as compact as possible, with metals of a decent thickness and finish available on the market today just as it was in the past, and I truly think that the day a new manufacturer will come and offer half as good as what I see some people do with custom milled or manufactured cases in the market, ...all of a sudden You will start to see all the major case companies come up with a new designs quality at the same price of this junk We are being offered today, because for the most part, if We truly look at these materials and assembly quality, We can comfortably say that We are still buying 80s style junk...I am sorry, I can respect Your case, and ME myself would buy this case, if I have to put something low power in it for My kid, as it is a very good looking case and I would not feel sorry to put it anywhere in My home so anyone can see it, but this doesnt mean that it could be much better or that it is overall a 15 dollarish quality chinese wholesale case.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aby67*
> 
> Ehm....
> 
> Just fr the record, maybe If You read posts properly, I never mentioned 1 radiator BUT 2 360x180.....they will cool properly 4 gpus and a cpu at full load, given the fact, that I actually doing this with a couple of XSPC rads of this size.
> 
> As for china manufacturing, I never really discussed quality, even if We can perfectly argue about that as well, chinese deliver best price possible...that being said, they work on same templates and this is why I am trying to explain in this post, that as the Evolve many other pc cases pretty much have the same few millimeters here and there issues when You need to mount stuff in them.....as for the Evolve and p400, all You need to do is strip both cases down leaving only the bare frame just to see that the evolve frame, is a modified P400, as it has the MB plate recess design, which is basically a bend, of the same metal sheet, with an adapted PSU shroud to screw it on....You can manufacture any kind of quality You want in china, but what You need to keep in mind is that case retailers aim at a least 1000% gross mark up, so in the case of the evolve, it is a piece that costs to Phanteks approx 15 dollars a piece fully finished and shipped...which is fine for Me, as I support companies making good margins and good profit, if they have a good product.....unfortunately in the case of the Evolve ATX, while i find it really aesthetically pleasing, a better cut of the tempered glass, would have definitely given much better air intake without compromising the design style, better top cover housing would have fixed hot air exhaust,and only few millimeters difference, would have allowed to mount dual simple 120x360 rads without having to do a Singularity computers like tedious mod....
> This is why I am mentioning Chinese manufacturing, because no matter what, unless a case manufacturer sells tens of thousands of one chassis, they will all go to the chinese and have their BASE template chassis adapted to HOST they external covers, which in the case of the evolve ATX is two pieces of Aluminium and two pieces of tempered glass, with lazer holes designed to host their caddies.
> 
> What I am personally complaining about is, that there is NOT one single PC case on the market,in my opinion that has great aesthetics, great functionality, and as compact as possible, with metals of a decent thickness and finish available on the market today just as it was in the past, and I truly think that the day a new manufacturer will come and offer half as good as what I see some people do with custom milled or manufactured cases in the market, ...all of a sudden You will start to see all the major case companies come up with a new designs quality at the same price of this junk We are being offered today, because for the most part, if We truly look at these materials and assembly quality, We can comfortably say that We are still buying 80s style junk...I am sorry, I can respect Your case, and ME myself would buy this case, if I have to put something low power in it for My kid, as it is a very good looking case and I would not feel sorry to put it anywhere in My home so anyone can see it, but this doesnt mean that it could be much better or that it is overall a 15 dollarish quality chinese wholesale case.


Sorry, I mis-read your post. My bad.

As for all cases being based on a few chassis and Evolv ATX being based on P400 which didn't come out for a long time after Evolv ATX did, how about you quit talking and start posting links and data proving your claims about cases and what your 4x GPUs and CPU are that work so well on 2x 180x360 radiators.


----------



## tunejunky

yes you do have to go slim up top. i have that case with 2x 360mm. the one on top has to be as slim as it gets...even to the point of buying a different brand 360 for the top. i bought a PrimoChill Eximo SX, along with Scythe slipstream SY1212SL12H super slim fans (up to 2,000rpm). which are super quiet. i have a thicker (40mm) black ice 360 in front with the grey industrial Arctic F12 (dual ball bearing)


----------



## Aby67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry, I mis-read your post. My bad.
> 
> As for all cases being based on a few chassis and Evolv ATX being based on P400 which didn't come out for a long time after Evolv ATX did, how about you quit talking and start posting links and data proving your claims about cases and what your 4x GPUs and CPU are that work so well on 2x 180x360 radiators.






 if u wanna go dual 120x360

as for dual 180x360, the math is simple....it would be as if u running triple 120x360

Yes you are totally right, My bad, its the P400 build on the Evolve atx template and not viceversa, but My point still remains the same. `you could drop dual socket motherboards in both these cases and get decent cooling with minor factory 180x360 radiator mount adaptation for the frame, the cover (aluminum/plastic panels, tempered glass) is another story...
...definitely You could host dual classic 30mm 120x360s if phanteks did things without thinking of 280 AIO and ATX in mind all the time .


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aby67*
> 
> 1.On size fits all, is not so much of a myth, in the case of the evolve, if the frame was properly adapted, it could host twin 360x180mm radiators 30mm thick, which can effectively cool a 180 tdp Threadripper and 4 High end GPU at full load.....on top of that the evolve uses the same motherboard plate as the P400, only that it has a recess that wont allow to drop in a dual socket motherboard which in theory it can....if they made this case 2 centimeters longer and taller or with better optimization on the radiator mounts, it could host dual XSPC 45mm think rads 180x360 wide, and You would still have a relatively compact case as powerful as the NVIDIA DGX workstation (very intelligent design) in a smaller form factor with 2000watt PSU, for those like Me who are into CG and 3d VFX.
> 
> 2. I am not a fan of Thermaltake at all, but this view 71 TG case is actually a very good design, which allows to mount wider 180mm radiators, which increases your heat dissipation capacity by 50%, without having to use massive chassis which in My opinion are a thing of the past..
> 
> 3. Made in china mentality, is all about, google ALIBABA and browse for computer chassis, and it should not suprise You if You see almost all of computer chassis We are offered listed there, without the brand name at 1 tenth of the price....Now Phanteks is a great company with a good product because of detail, however a lot of their FORM FACTOR size is pretty much the same as the made in china stuff, which is where they likely get their case internal frame done (thus the big mistake of not designing the 120x360 dual radiator in the evolve, which it can actually accommodate, with just better screw and radiator mounts).
> 4.For You maybe decoupling the radiators system is old school, but for me that i do sometimes have my machine working at full load a week or two non stop 24/7 for rendering work its the smart way to go, I could have used a big case labs case, but I would have in no way have got better heat dissipation that having radiators mounted externally and then would have had that mammouth 1960s representation of a computer to place somewhere that didnt bother...You need to acknowledge that having dust filters, and radiators as air intake, does NOT help all other radiators to have the freshest of air...that being said, I can totally agree that for most users, it is best to have a compact case that does all the job...
> 
> We all want compact HEDT cases, why is it that every time You cant fit stuff for a question of a few SAME millimeters...have You asked yourself this question ever? Didnt You know that they all go pretty much to the same chassis factories in china?!....its the same frame templates over and over and over, with a different cover most of the time.


You can cram 5 radiators into and onto an Evolv ATX.


----------



## opt33

I agree that it would be nice to have a "compact" full tower version of the Evolve, ~ 21H X 21D range with top rad clearance that doesnt require covering mobo. The Fractal R5 case is 1.5 inches shorter, but 55mm top clearance, so the evolve top could be more vertically efficient, especially if abandons the side vented vaulted top that functions poorly in addition to wasted space.

The real issue is there are so few cases that are size efficient for front/top decent rads without being monstrosities and lacking modern features/cable management/140mm support. Considered lian li j60rwx..they did top clearance well 60+25 or 85 mm despite only 0.5 inches taller than evolve, but no 140mm support that requires modding to point of destroying front and top, not to mention 80mm exhaust and the afterthought screwed on window







, but liked the light all aluminum.

I spent countless hours looking at several hundred cases, mocked up modding several.....Phanteks seems to have the most water cooling support/features in the efficient form factors. But so far my only option is the luxe with TG and strip/mod the front barrier and cages and deal with function/aesthetics of what is left.


----------



## Notrace13

Hi All,

Here are a few pics of my Evolv ATX (Galaxy Silver) aptly named Argentum.

Part list:
6700k delidded
Corsair vengence 32gb 2666mhz
Asus maximus hero viii
Gigabyte windforce 980ti x2
EK custom loop and + Bits power fittings
Custom cabling and sleeving done by yours truly
Corsair RM850 psu
Crucial MX300 525gb ssd
Crucial BX200 240gb ssd
Seagate 2tb hd
WD 1 tb hd

http://s112.photobucket.com/user/NoTrace13/media/20170915_020125.jpg.html

http://s112.photobucket.com/user/NoTrace13/media/20170915_020318.jpg.html

http://s112.photobucket.com/user/NoTrace13/media/20170915_020422.jpg.html

http://s112.photobucket.com/user/NoTrace13/media/20170915_020442.jpg.html

http://s112.photobucket.com/user/NoTrace13/media/DSC_0019.jpg.html


----------



## doyll

Nice job @Notrace13


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice job @Notrace13


Agreed +1:thumb:


----------



## MoDeNa

Hi guys,

Finally I finish to re-build my rig with the water cooling configuration:

2 x Black Ice Nemesis GTS 360 Radiators
6 x NoiseBlockers eLoop B12-PS
1 x EKWB Asus X99 Monoblock
1 x EKWB Asus GTX 1080 Ti Strix block (nickel)
1 x EKWB Asus GTX 1080 Ti Strix backplate (nickel)
1 x EKWB XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. sleeved pump)
All with EK PETG 16-12 tube with its fittings in nickel and a drain fitting

I was trying to go with Bitspower fittings as I was reading from some of you that these fittings were the best but I could nof find them and I can not wait more to upgrade my refrigeration setup, so finally I decided to go with the EK ones. Currently, I'm happy with them.

As I said in previous posts, many thanks to all of you guys for sharing all your tips and knowledge in this big world of WC. So, lets leave the words to see the pics













Hope you like it!


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoDeNa*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Finally I finish to re-build my rig with the water cooling configuration:
> 
> 2 x Black Ice Nemesis GTS 360 Radiators
> 6 x NoiseBlockers eLoop B12-PS
> 1 x EKWB Asus X99 Monoblock
> 1 x EKWB Asus GTX 1080 Ti Strix block (nickel)
> 1 x EKWB Asus GTX 1080 Ti Strix backplate (nickel)
> 1 x EKWB XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. sleeved pump)
> All with EK PETG 16-12 tube with its fittings in nickel and a drain fitting
> 
> I was trying to go with Bitspower fittings as I was reading from some of you that these fittings were the best but I could nof find them and I can not wait more to upgrade my refrigeration setup, so finally I decided to go with the EK ones. Currently, I'm happy with them.
> 
> As I said in previous posts, many thanks to all of you guys for sharing all your tips and knowledge in this big world of WC. So, lets leave the words to see the pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you like it!


EK fittings are fine, looks really good


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> You can cram 5 radiators into and onto an Evolv ATX.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoDeNa*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Finally I finish to re-build my rig with the water cooling configuration:
> 
> 2 x Black Ice Nemesis GTS 360 Radiators
> 6 x NoiseBlockers eLoop B12-PS
> 1 x EKWB Asus X99 Monoblock
> 1 x EKWB Asus GTX 1080 Ti Strix block (nickel)
> 1 x EKWB Asus GTX 1080 Ti Strix backplate (nickel)
> 1 x EKWB XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. sleeved pump)
> All with EK PETG 16-12 tube with its fittings in nickel and a drain fitting
> 
> I was trying to go with Bitspower fittings as I was reading from some of you that these fittings were the best but I could nof find them and I can not wait more to upgrade my refrigeration setup, so finally I decided to go with the EK ones. Currently, I'm happy with them.
> 
> As I said in previous posts, many thanks to all of you guys for sharing all your tips and knowledge in this big world of WC. So, lets leave the words to see the pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you like it!


haha reminds me of mine


----------



## MoDeNa

Yours was a clear inspiration source... hehe. Love that build you did there.


----------



## chakku

Is it possible to install 3x 120mm fans to the front of this case without a radiator? I don't seem to have any screws with it that would fit in the slots.


----------



## Granpa

Yes. You just use regular fan screws and screw it in from inside the case. The lower fan will require u to detach the hdd cage to access the mounting holes
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chakku*
> 
> Is it possible to install 3x 120mm fans to the front of this case without a radiator? I don't seem to have any screws with it that would fit in the slots.


----------



## chakku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Granpa*
> 
> Yes. You just use regular fan screws and screw it in from inside the case. The lower fan will require u to detach the hdd cage to access the mounting holes


Thanks and yikes, that requires me to disassemble my loop then as I have my res/pump mounted on the rear of it with a fan mount bracket.


----------



## Granpa

Maybe u can share a pic of your build?


----------



## MkaiL

Hey guys, here is my modded evolv case. I love the hexagon designs but personally didn't like the big openings. I still went for the hexagon but a somewhat inverted design, with openings about the same size as the original cutouts on the top and used the same mesh. What do you guys think?

Specs of my system: Phanteks evolv atx TG / Asus maximus VIII formula / i7 6700k / Evga 1080ti FTW3 / G.skill trident Z 2x8gb 3200mhz / Be Quiet dark rock 3 / Samsung 960 evo 500gb + 850 evo 500gb / 4tb Seagate hdd / Corsair RM850x white

I used to have an EK predator 360 in there but I've had 3 units fail on me and EK discontinued them so I got a refund. Been using an aircooler temporarily, and I am currently planning for a custom waterloop for the entire system. My plans are: white fluid, black bitspower fittings, watercool heatkiller tube res/D5 pump, watercool heatkiller IV pro cpu block, EK gpu block for my FTW3, hwlabs nemesis 360 gts (top) and 280 gtx (front). However this may take a while since other things came up and I'm still a student, so no monthly paycheck here







. In the mean time, I will order a custom set of mdpc-x sleeved black/grey/white cables.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MkaiL*
> 
> Hey guys, here is my modded evolv case. I love the hexagon designs but personally didn't like the big openings. I still went for the hexagon but a somewhat inverted design, with openings about the same size as the original cutouts on the top and used the same mesh. What do you guys think?
> 
> Specs of my system: Phanteks evolv atx TG / Asus maximus VIII formula / i7 6700k / Evga 1080ti FTW3 / G.skill trident Z 2x8gb 3200mhz / Be Quiet dark rock 3 / Samsung 960 evo 500gb + 850 evo 500gb / 4tb Seagate hdd / Corsair RM850x white
> 
> I used to have an EK predator 360 in there but I've had 3 units fail on me and EK discontinued them so I got a refund. Been using an aircooler temporarily, and I am currently planning for a custom waterloop for the entire system. My plans are: white fluid, black bitspower fittings, watercool heatkiller tube res/D5 pump, watercool heatkiller IV pro cpu block, EK gpu block for my FTW3, hwlabs nemesis 360 gts (top) and 280 gtx (front). However this may take a while since other things came up and I'm still a student, so no monthly paycheck here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . In the mean time, I will order a custom set of mdpc-x sleeved black/grey/white cables.


Nice Looking! And nice to see a proposed loop that is really well thought out! Plus rep.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MkaiL*
> 
> Hey guys, here is my modded evolv case. I love the hexagon designs but personally didn't like the big openings. I still went for the hexagon but a somewhat inverted design, with openings about the same size as the original cutouts on the top and used the same mesh. What do you guys think?
> 
> Specs of my system: Phanteks evolv atx TG / Asus maximus VIII formula / i7 6700k / Evga 1080ti FTW3 / G.skill trident Z 2x8gb 3200mhz / Be Quiet dark rock 3 / Samsung 960 evo 500gb + 850 evo 500gb / 4tb Seagate hdd / Corsair RM850x white
> 
> I used to have an EK predator 360 in there but I've had 3 units fail on me and EK discontinued them so I got a refund. Been using an aircooler temporarily, and I am currently planning for a custom waterloop for the entire system. My plans are: white fluid, black bitspower fittings, watercool heatkiller tube res/D5 pump, watercool heatkiller IV pro cpu block, EK gpu block for my FTW3, hwlabs nemesis 360 gts (top) and 280 gtx (front). However this may take a while since other things came up and I'm still a student, so no monthly paycheck here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . In the mean time, I will order a custom set of mdpc-x sleeved black/grey/white cables.


Great rig. Well thought out loop bit be prepared because the total of what you have listed will be pricey!

Without actually looking anything up I'm gonna guess somewhere between $750 and a grand. Great parts though. Glad to see you go with an ek gpu block. Love the heatkiller stuff but not a fan of the gpu blocks. I know it is really subjective though.

Sorry to hear about the predator though. Bum luck for sure. I had the 240 1.0 and it was perfect but did the recall anyway. The 1.1 I got was just as perfect. Moved to a custom loop anyway. Nothing as extravagant as what you have plotted out though.

I would advise against the colored coolant though. Sure, sometimes it works out fine but not always, and for me at least, it's never been worth the risk/hassle of gunked up blocks. It does look pretty though.


----------



## MkaiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Great rig. Well thought out loop bit be prepared because the total of what you have listed will be pricey!
> 
> Without actually looking anything up I'm gonna guess somewhere between $750 and a grand. Great parts though. Glad to see you go with an ek gpu block. Love the heatkiller stuff but not a fan of the gpu blocks. I know it is really subjective though.
> 
> Sorry to hear about the predator though. Bum luck for sure. I had the 240 1.0 and it was perfect but did the recall anyway. The 1.1 I got was just as perfect. Moved to a custom loop anyway. Nothing as extravagant as what you have plotted out though.
> 
> I would advise against the colored coolant though. Sure, sometimes it works out fine but not always, and for me at least, it's never been worth the risk/hassle of gunked up blocks. It does look pretty though.


Thanks for the advice. Yes, I'm well aware of the total cost. With all the rotary fittings etc. it's about a grand (€). I went with the EK gpu block since they look much nicer and perform similarly, plus heatkiller only has FE gpu blocks for the 1080ti.

I had the budget for the entire loop but some personal things came up and money went elsewhere. I'm still in college so it will probably take some time before I can continue my plans. I work in the holidays and also did some (paid) builds for other people, which all helps to upgrade my own system. It's been almost a year since I've build this pc, started out with a single 250gb ssd and gtx1070 (which I sold for the same price), and kept adding slowly over time.

I've been having some bad luck I guess with the EK predators. My first unit arrived DOA, second one leaked after two weeks and the third one also started leaking. Both were leaking from the (plastic) pump/res on the rad.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MkaiL*
> 
> Thanks for the advice. Yes, I'm well aware of the total cost. With all the rotary fittings etc. it's about a grand (€). I went with the EK gpu block since they look much nicer and perform similarly, plus heatkiller only has FE gpu blocks for the 1080ti.
> 
> I had the budget for the entire loop but some personal things came up and money went elsewhere. I'm still in college so it will probably take some time before I can continue my plans. I work in the holidays and also did some (paid) builds for other people, which all helps to upgrade my own system. It's been almost a year since I've build this pc, started out with a single 250gb ssd and gtx1070 (which I sold for the same price), and kept adding slowly over time.
> 
> I've been having some bad luck I guess with the EK predators. My first unit arrived DOA, second one leaked after two weeks and the third one also started leaking. Both were leaking from the (plastic) pump/res on the rad.


Yeah that seems like the standard place people saw leaking. Guess there was a piece they'd send you to replace or reinforce it but by then it was too little too late.

Think somewhere along the line whoever was assembling it got a little too aggressive in their tightening and cracked the plastic. Guess I just got lucky?

Good luck with your rig and looking forward to pics when you can finally get it together.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MkaiL*
> 
> I've been having some bad luck I guess with the EK predators. My first unit arrived DOA, second one leaked after two weeks and the third one also started leaking. Both were leaking from the (plastic) pump/res on the rad.


You aren't alone....there is a reason they were recalled, reissued and ultimately discontinued.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You aren't alone....there is a reason they were recalled, reissued and ultimately discontinued.


Which is unfortunate as overall it was a pretty good product. Although I'm sure the failure rate was pretty high vs a 'normal' failure rate of something similar, I'd still bet it was single digit percentage. There were plenty of people, including myself, that had zero issues.


----------



## velocityx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MkaiL*
> 
> Hey guys, here is my modded evolv case. I love the hexagon designs but personally didn't like the big openings. I still went for the hexagon but a somewhat inverted design, with openings about the same size as the original cutouts on the top and used the same mesh. What do you guys think?
> 
> Specs of my system: Phanteks evolv atx TG / Asus maximus VIII formula / i7 6700k / Evga 1080ti FTW3 / G.skill trident Z 2x8gb 3200mhz / Be Quiet dark rock 3 / Samsung 960 evo 500gb + 850 evo 500gb / 4tb Seagate hdd / Corsair RM850x white
> 
> I used to have an EK predator 360 in there but I've had 3 units fail on me and EK discontinued them so I got a refund. Been using an aircooler temporarily, and I am currently planning for a custom waterloop for the entire system. My plans are: white fluid, black bitspower fittings, watercool heatkiller tube res/D5 pump, watercool heatkiller IV pro cpu block, EK gpu block for my FTW3, hwlabs nemesis 360 gts (top) and 280 gtx (front). However this may take a while since other things came up and I'm still a student, so no monthly paycheck here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . In the mean time, I will order a custom set of mdpc-x sleeved black/grey/white cables.


that design looks amazing!! congrats on that

question. How strong is it? does it flex or is the aluminium keeping it firm?

Can i steal the design for my case?


----------



## MkaiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> that design looks amazing!! congrats on that
> 
> question. How strong is it? does it flex or is the aluminium keeping it firm?
> 
> Can i steal the design for my case?


Thanks. The top panel is firm but you have to be careful with the front panel. It does flex and you need to be really careful when taking it off, especially with the mounting system on the front.
Can't really stop anyone from stealing it, can I?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Which is unfortunate as overall it was a pretty good product. Although I'm sure the failure rate was pretty high vs a 'normal' failure rate of something similar, I'd still bet it was single digit percentage. There were plenty of people, including myself, that had zero issues.


I would bet the failure rate was lower than Corsair's CLCs....and that EK simply cared more about their customers and did the right thing in response.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I would bet the failure rate was lower than Corsair's CLCs....and that EK simply cared more about their customers and did the right thing in response.


I agree. I would love to be the fly on the wall listening to Corair talking about the thousands and thousands of H100 and H80 that were sold as 'refurbished'. I've always wondered how many of those 'refurbished' where really new CLCs being sold as 'refurbished' to limit their warranty to 3-6 months instead of 5 years. There were a huge number of RMAs, but I don't think near as many as the number of 'refurbished' CLCs that were sold world wide in the following year or so.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I agree. I would love to be the fly on the wall listening to Corair talking about the thousands and thousands of H100 and H80 that were sold as 'refurbished'. I've always wondered how many of those 'refurbished' where really new CLCs being sold as 'refurbished' to limit their warranty to 3-6 months instead of 5 years. There were a huge number of RMAs, but I don't think near as many as the number of 'refurbished' CLCs that were sold world wide in the following year or so.


I really should have said "any Asetek made CLC", but, in their agreement it seems that Corsair gets the "updates" (aka "found a way to make them even cheaper") to market first, and has seen the brunt of first run issues.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I really should have said "any Asetek made CLC", but, in their agreement it seems that Corsair gets the "updates" (aka "found a way to make them even cheaper") to market first, and has seen the brunt of first run issues.


Or maybe it's that Corsiar has a thinks of customers like Carnys do .. using the carny barker principle to attract customers.

The times when a quality product marketed itself have been overpowered by internet media / fake news / media groups with carny's, snake oil salemen and flim-flam aritists filling minds with all kinds of garbage.


----------



## MoDeNa

Hi guys,

After assembling all my WC stuff I'm trying to configurate radiator fans. The temps I am having are a bit worse than expected, even more taking into account that I'm not doing OC at the moment.

Considering 25ºC of ambient temperature, playing BF1 with 4K resolution and 60 fps capped, my Asus GTX 1080 Ti is around 50ºC / 55ºC (no OC at this point of time) and my processor temps (i7 6800K without overclock) almost 50ºC. My loop is the following:

- 2x HWL 360 GTS Nemesis with 3 Noiseblockers eLoop in push configuration
- i7 6800K (no OC at this moment) with EK X99 monoblock for Asus motherboards
- Asus GTX 1080 TI Strix OC with EK block and backplate
- My Evolv TG has the top modded, so hot air is out of the case, and the front of the case is with spacers and without the mesh filter.

I must say that the pump is running at 2800 rpm and the six fans at same speeds, around 800 rpm and the temps start around 30ºC and, then they are maintained around 40ºC but after 30 min playing, temps start to increase little by little and they don't seem to keep stable in a specific range. I guess something is not working properly with my air flow.

I also have a water temp sensor and water hits around 45ºC temp.

What do you think? Are these temps fine with the config I mentioned (loop and fan/pump speeds) or I should be expecting something better?

Many thanks in advance for your help/opinion.

Kind regards,

PD: My loop:


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoDeNa*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> After assembling all my WC stuff I'm trying to configurate radiator fans. The temps I am having are a bit worse than expected, even more taking into account that I'm not doing OC at the moment.
> 
> Considering 25ºC of ambient temperature, playing BF1 with 4K resolution and 60 fps capped, my Asus GTX 1080 Ti is around 50ºC / 55ºC (no OC at this point of time) and my processor temps (i7 6800K without overclock) almost 50ºC. My loop is the following:
> 
> - 2x HWL 360 GTS Nemesis with 3 Noiseblockers eLoop in push configuration
> - i7 6800K (no OC at this moment) with EK X99 monoblock for Asus motherboards
> - Asus GTX 1080 TI Strix OC with EK block and backplate
> - My Evolv TG has the top modded, so hot air is out of the case, and the front of the case is with spacers and without the mesh filter.
> 
> I must say that the pump is running at 2800 rpm and the six fans at same speeds, around 800 rpm and the temps start around 30ºC and, then they are maintained around 40ºC but after 30 min playing, temps start to increase little by little and they don't seem to keep stable in a specific range. I guess something is not working properly with my air flow.
> 
> I also have a water temp sensor and water hits around 45ºC temp.
> 
> What do you think? Are these temps fine with the config I mentioned (loop and fan/pump speeds) or I should be expecting something better?
> 
> Many thanks in advance for your help/opinion.
> 
> Kind regards,
> 
> PD: My loop:


I went through similar, running a 4790K and 1070, both well OC, on a single 360GTS. I bumped to fans to 940 which made a huge difference in temps with really no audible difference, and they have a curve that reacts to liquid temp. How does the system respond with higher fan speeds?


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoDeNa*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> After assembling all my WC stuff I'm trying to configurate radiator fans. The temps I am having are a bit worse than expected, even more taking into account that I'm not doing OC at the moment.
> 
> Considering 25ºC of ambient temperature, playing BF1 with 4K resolution and 60 fps capped, my Asus GTX 1080 Ti is around 50ºC / 55ºC (no OC at this point of time) and my processor temps (i7 6800K without overclock) almost 50ºC. My loop is the following:
> 
> - 2x HWL 360 GTS Nemesis with 3 Noiseblockers eLoop in push configuration
> - i7 6800K (no OC at this moment) with EK X99 monoblock for Asus motherboards
> - Asus GTX 1080 TI Strix OC with EK block and backplate
> - My Evolv TG has the top modded, so hot air is out of the case, and the front of the case is with spacers and without the mesh filter.
> 
> I must say that the pump is running at 2800 rpm and the six fans at same speeds, around 800 rpm and the temps start around 30ºC and, then they are maintained around 40ºC but after 30 min playing, temps start to increase little by little and they don't seem to keep stable in a specific range. I guess something is not working properly with my air flow.
> 
> I also have a water temp sensor and water hits around 45ºC temp.
> 
> What do you think? Are these temps fine with the config I mentioned (loop and fan/pump speeds) or I should be expecting something better?
> 
> Many thanks in advance for your help/opinion.
> 
> Kind regards,
> 
> PD: My loop:


Well I know the systems are different but I'm running (both oc'd) a 5820k and a 980ti on a single thicker 360. Gaming the cpu is low mid 60s and the gpu is around 50. D5 pump at full tilt and corsair sp120s are 100% which is 1450rpm. Yeah, a little loud









This makes me think you're right about where you should be. Nice rig BTW.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Well I know the systems are different but I'm running (both oc'd) a 5820k and a 980ti on a single thicker 360. Gaming the cpu is low mid 60s and the gpu is around 50. D5 pump at full tilt and corsair sp120s are 100% which is 1450rpm. Yeah, a little loud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This makes me think you're right about where you should be. Nice rig BTW.


D5 pumps actually cool themselves by dumping their heat into the liquid. My loop actually runs cooler with the pump at 2550 rpm than it does with the pump at 4000. Have you playednaroundnwith pump speeds at all to see if backing down might actually produce better results?


----------



## MoDeNa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I went through similar, running a 4790K and 1070, both well OC, on a single 360GTS. I bumped to fans to 940 which made a huge difference in temps with really no audible difference, and they have a curve that reacts to liquid temp. How does the system respond with higher fan speeds?


With higher fan speeds the system maintains the temps around 40ºC for both, GPU and CPU. The fans are spinning at 1.500 rpm and they are noisy. I will try to increase to +/- 950 rpm to see the effect.

If I remove the right and front panels, the temps are fine and the system is silent, in line what I would expect on a full WC config, So I am planning to live without the panels (at least the right one).

Jokes apart, I guess I need to study more this case. If not I guess I will end moving to another case, more friendly with WC systems.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Well I know the systems are different but I'm running (both oc'd) a 5820k and a 980ti on a single thicker 360. Gaming the cpu is low mid 60s and the gpu is around 50. D5 pump at full tilt and corsair sp120s are 100% which is 1450rpm. Yeah, a little loud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This makes me think you're right about where you should be. Nice rig BTW.


Thanks for sharing your experience, it is a good reference for me. Watts of your system are similar to mine, so it is good to know. As ciarlatano said, I would try with lower speed with the pump, as I also obtain better temps than running it at full speed.

I will keep you updated with my rig.

Thanks for your help!


----------



## Granpa

Anyone used a monoblock before?

I am hitting 80+ degrees while running stability tests on my CPU (Prime95). This is based on ambient temp of 26 degree Celsius. Just wondering if I have a bad mounting or bad application of thermal paste.

Vcore was pushed to 1.395 as I've experienced random BSODs even idling in windows @ vcore 1.385

I am also running with an AVX factor of 0.3.

Specs are as follows:

Hardware:
CPU: 7700K o/c to 5Ghz (vcore 1.395) - delidded
Mobo: Asus Maximus IX Hero
GPU: GTX 1080Ti FE
Case: Phanteks Evolv ATX TG with modded Top panel

WC Parts:
1x 360 HWL radiator (top)
1x 240 HWL radiator (front)
1x EK Maximus Hero monoblock
1x BP GPU Block
1x BP D5 Vario Pump/Res combo (running at speed 4)


----------



## alanthecelt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Granpa*
> 
> Anyone used a monoblock before?
> 
> I am hitting 80+ degrees while running stability tests on my CPU (Prime95). This is based on ambient temp of 26 degree Celsius. Just wondering if I have a bad mounting or bad application of thermal paste.
> 
> Vcore was pushed to 1.395 as I've experienced random BSODs even idling in windows @ vcore 1.385
> 
> I am also running with an AVX factor of 0.3.
> 
> Specs are as follows:
> 
> Hardware:
> CPU: 7700K o/c to 5Ghz (vcore 1.395) - delidded
> Mobo: Asus Maximus IX Hero
> GPU: GTX 1080Ti FE
> Case: Phanteks Evolv ATX TG with modded Top panel
> 
> WC Parts:
> 1x 360 HWL radiator (top)
> 1x 240 HWL radiator (front)
> 1x EK Maximus Hero monoblock
> 1x BP GPU Block
> 1x BP D5 Vario Pump/Res combo (running at speed 4)


yup
delidded 7600k at 5ghz on gigabyte z270 ultra with monoblock
about 1.36-1.38 on core (i dont recall now)
pretty sure it only creeps into the 70's at worse now...normal useage
its been a while since i did any tweaks or adjustments
i do not recall the monoblock giving me many worries.

if i ran a cpu stability test i have no doubt id see temps that you are describing
i havent got any fancy thermal paste on my block, just the ek stuff


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Granpa*
> 
> Anyone used a monoblock before?
> 
> I am hitting 80+ degrees while running stability tests on my CPU (Prime95). This is based on ambient temp of 26 degree Celsius. Just wondering if I have a bad mounting or bad application of thermal paste.
> 
> Vcore was pushed to 1.395 as I've experienced random BSODs even idling in windows @ vcore 1.385
> 
> I am also running with an AVX factor of 0.3.
> 
> Specs are as follows:
> 
> Hardware:
> CPU: 7700K o/c to 5Ghz (vcore 1.395) - delidded
> Mobo: Asus Maximus IX Hero
> GPU: GTX 1080Ti FE
> Case: Phanteks Evolv ATX TG with modded Top panel
> 
> WC Parts:
> 1x 360 HWL radiator (top)
> 1x 240 HWL radiator (front)
> 1x EK Maximus Hero monoblock
> 1x BP GPU Block
> 1x BP D5 Vario Pump/Res combo (running at speed 4)


That seems quite high considering Im running a similar system, with mine I top 80 degrees C with 27 degrees C ambient







similar Vcore and a VRM block so similar to a monoblock.


----------



## Granpa

whats your vcore?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> That seems quite high considering Im running a similar system, with mine I top 80 degrees C with 27 degrees C ambient


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Granpa*
> 
> whats your vcore?


Vcore in UEFI is 1.39V but with OCCT 1.408V


----------



## Shadoww

I've been wanting to get this case.. it's so beautiful.. but I keep reading airflow is really bad. How did you guys justify buying it knowing it has bad air flow?

Right now I'm currently aircooling with a Noctua d15, which is perfectly fine with this case. But in the future, I kind of want to get into doing a custom loop.

Have you guys modded your case or what for watercooling? I don't want to hurt this case.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadoww*
> 
> I've been wanting to get this case.. it's so beautiful.. but I keep reading airflow is really bad. How did you guys justify buying it knowing it has bad air flow?
> 
> Right now I'm currently aircooling with a Noctua d15, which is perfectly fine with this case. But in the future, I kind of want to get into doing a custom loop.
> 
> Have you guys modded your case or what for watercooling? I don't want to hurt this case.


Some members have modified the top and or front of this case to allow for more airflow, that said even though the airflow is not the best in terms of CPU,GPU temps my own personal testing has shown it doesn't really make huge difference (some members may disagree), even modmymods claim an average of 5 degrees C temperature drop with their modified top. i have only modified the front radiator mount to allow 240mm radiator to sit where I wanted it to sit.
https://modmymods.com/custom-services/phanteks-case-mods.html


----------



## MoDeNa

I've done the top mod and I have to say, that in my case, temps improved when I had my previous config of cooler, a Corsair H110 GTX and a GTX 1080 SLI Founders Edition (please, see this post for further detail.

Now I am having full water cooling confing and I am finding some issues to maintain stable the temps, accordingly with what a water cooling solution offers. I must say that my goal is performance with the minimun noise.

I realize that this case is not the best one to have a water cooling confing on it but is not that bad. It just is normal. At this point of time, I have to say that I am thinking in moving my components to another case more friendly with WC, but the only thing that is braking that movement is the aesthetics point. This case is almost a 10, in my personal opinion.

If you like it go for it, but if you want to have the best temps, you know this is not the choice for that business.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoDeNa*
> 
> I've done the top mod and I have to say, that in my case, temps improved when I had my previous config of cooler, a Corsair H110 GTX and a GTX 1080 SLI Founders Edition (please, see this post for further detail.
> 
> Now I am having full water cooling confing and I am finding some issues to maintain stable the temps, accordingly with what a water cooling solution offers. I must say that my goal is performance with the minimun noise.
> 
> I realize that this case is not the best one to have a water cooling confing on it but is not that bad. It just is normal. At this point of time, I have to say that I am thinking in moving my components to another case more friendly with WC, but the only thing that is braking that movement is the aesthetics point. This case is almost a 10, in my personal opinion.
> 
> If you like it go for it, but if you want to have the best temps, you know this is not the choice for that business.


It's decent enough. In a bigger case like a luxe or primo your looking at 5-10 deg off.


----------



## opt33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoDeNa*
> 
> I've done the top mod and I have to say, that in my case, temps improved when I had my previous config of cooler, a Corsair H110 GTX and a GTX 1080 SLI Founders Edition (please, see this post for further detail.
> 
> Now I am having full water cooling confing and I am finding some issues to maintain stable the temps, accordingly with what a water cooling solution offers. I must say that my goal is performance with the minimun noise.
> 
> I realize that this case is not the best one to have a water cooling confing on it but is not that bad. It just is normal. At this point of time, I have to say that I am thinking in moving my components to another case more friendly with WC, but the only thing that is braking that movement is the aesthetics point. This case is almost a 10, in my personal opinion.
> 
> If you like it go for it, but if you want to have the best temps, you know this is not the choice for that business.


The air restriction is what kept me from phanteks evolve case. I finished building in phanteks luxe case and compared it to Fractal design build, temps roughly the same. But removed each front, filter, and side panels one at a time on each case to see magnitude of various restrictions. Used temp probes at each fan intake (4 total), 1 probe in water, and few inside the case. The components are exactly same in both cases, OC 6900k 4.3ghz, 1.32v, Titan XP, msi x99 mobo.

Pic of each build below. Fans in all tests aerocool DS 140mm at constant 950rpm.

To keep it less busy, delta air to water only. Time spy ran for 10 mins for each run.
scenario 1 with Fractal Design R5 case, top GTS 280 rad intake/pull, front GTX 280 rad intake push/pull and single rear exit fan.

delta air to water:
9.5C all filters/panels in place
8.1C removed only top Demciflex filter, 15% restriction
8.0C removed only front panel, top/front filters in place, 15% restriction
8.6C removed only front FD filter (door closed), 9% restriction
6.1C front door open, both filters off, 36% combined
4.9C front door open, filters off, side panel dropped, 48% total loss from air restriction of front, both filters, and unbalanced air.

scenario 2 with FD R5 case, top gts 280 expel air via push and no top filter, front same gtx 280 push/pull intake. rear fan removed since using rear fan slightly worsened temps.

delta air to water:
7.1C, but cpu/gpu temps 1C higher than scenario 1 despite 2C lower delta, since warmer internal case air in top rad increased avg intake temps by 3C.
5.1C with front door open, front filter off, panels dropped.

scenario 1 with Phanteks luxe case same setup as scenario 1 FD, both rads as intake, 1 rear exhaust, all fans 950 rpms.
delta air to water:
9.3C all filters/panels in place
8.4C, only front aluminum piece off, 10% restriction
7.3C, front off including filter, total 22% restriction
8.1C only top filter/grill removed, 13% restriction
6.1C, removed top grill/filter and front panel/filter, 34% combined restriction
5.0C, side panels dropped, front/top off.

scenario 2 with Phanteks luxe case, same setup as scenario 2 FD, front 280gtx intake, top 280gts push and expelling air and no top filter. No rear fan.
delta air to water
7.0C, again cpu/gpu temps 1C higher than scenario 1. However scenario 1/2 at higher fan speeds had same cpu/gpu temps, plus 2C lower avg temps inside the case.


----------



## Tonza

How you guys would put 240 and 120 rad into this case? 120mm to back and 240 to top (push and pull ML120 setup to the rads and front 2x ML140s as intake)? Have modded my top panel, so that is not an issue.


----------



## B3MMi

Hey Guys! I'm planning on getting water cooling for my system in this case. My specs are Maximus IX Hero, 7700K, 16GB Trident Z 3200MHz, EVGA GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 and Corsair HX1200i with Cablemod cables.







At the moment I have Cryorig H5 Ultimate as a CPU cooler but it's barely keeping my CPU cool at 4.5GHz 1.145V.

The perfect radiator combo for looks would be EK-CoolStream SE 360 (26mm thick) in the top and EK-CoolStream SE 240 (26mm) in the front (at least IMO). 280mm would definitely be better in the front but I think that wouldn't fit that well. First I'll be getting my CPU on water and maybe later GPU as it will cost a lot.

So I'm thinking about getting that 360mm radiator on the top for my CPU. I'll get the other radiator later if I expand the loop for GPU. Can I put EK-Vardar EVO 120ER fans (25mm thick) between the top fan rack and the roof so that I can't see the fans from outside the case? I think that would look the best and motherboard would be well visible.

Let me know if you guys have any suggestions and I'll happily read them. I hope that 360mm rad won't affect my GPU temps negatively as I have no idea what would happen. I got no fans in the top, a Corsair AF140 in the back of the case and 2x 140mm Phanteks fans that came with the case in the front. For my surprise the 3 fans that came with the case are static pressure fans. Or at least they look like it (large heavy blades)

I have a little fear that the air flow restriction of the case will mess my temps and that's another reason why I don't want a thick rad. I also hope that the 360mm slim radiator is enough for the CPU. Yeah sure it's enough at stock clocks but 7700K's are damn hot CPU's without delidding. I'm not planning to overclock it that heavily yet, maybe later. My last CPU was delidded 4770K that could reach 4.9GHz bechmark stable on air so it's tempting for me to have a bit of fun overclocking. I have delidding tool but dunno if I want to void my warranty yet. Well let's see about that later.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3MMi*
> 
> Hey Guys! I'm planning on getting water cooling for my system in this case. My specs are Maximus IX Hero, 7700K, 16GB Trident Z 3200MHz, EVGA GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 and Corsair HX1200i with Cablemod cables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the moment I have Cryorig H5 Ultimate as a CPU cooler but it's barely keeping my CPU cool at 4.5GHz 1.145V.
> 
> The perfect radiator combo for looks would be EK-CoolStream SE 360 (26mm thick) in the top and EK-CoolStream SE 240 (26mm) in the front (at least IMO). 280mm would definitely be better in the front but I think that wouldn't fit that well. First I'll be getting my CPU on water and maybe later GPU as it will cost a lot.
> 
> So I'm thinking about getting that 360mm radiator on the top for my CPU. I'll get the other radiator later if I expand the loop for GPU. Can I put EK-Vardar EVO 120ER fans (25mm thick) between the top fan rack and the roof so that I can't see the fans from outside the case? I think that would look the best and motherboard would be well visible.
> 
> Let me know if you guys have any suggestions and I'll happily read them. I hope that 360mm rad won't affect my GPU temps negatively as I have no idea what would happen. I got no fans in the top, a Corsair AF140 in the back of the case and 2x 140mm Phanteks fans that came with the case in the front. For my surprise the 3 fans that came with the case are static pressure fans. Or at least they look like it (large heavy blades)
> 
> I have a little fear that the air flow restriction of the case will mess my temps and that's another reason why I don't want a thick rad. I also hope that the 360mm slim radiator is enough for the CPU. Yeah sure it's enough at stock clocks but 7700K's are damn hot CPU's without delidding. I'm not planning to overclock it that heavily yet, maybe later. My last CPU was delidded 4770K that could reach 4.9GHz bechmark stable on air so it's tempting for me to have a bit of fun overclocking. I have delidding tool but dunno if I want to void my warranty yet. Well let's see about that later.


My only suggstion. Those rads suck for the price. Get HLabs GTS rads cheaper and perform better. Also get ml 120 the 2 packs better than vardar and cost less.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3MMi*
> 
> Hey Guys! I'm planning on getting water cooling for my system in this case. My specs are Maximus IX Hero, 7700K, 16GB Trident Z 3200MHz, EVGA GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 and Corsair HX1200i with Cablemod cables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the moment I have Cryorig H5 Ultimate as a CPU cooler but it's barely keeping my CPU cool at 4.5GHz 1.145V.
> 
> The perfect radiator combo for looks would be EK-CoolStream SE 360 (26mm thick) in the top and EK-CoolStream SE 240 (26mm) in the front (at least IMO). 280mm would definitely be better in the front but I think that wouldn't fit that well. First I'll be getting my CPU on water and maybe later GPU as it will cost a lot.
> 
> So I'm thinking about getting that 360mm radiator on the top for my CPU. I'll get the other radiator later if I expand the loop for GPU. Can I put EK-Vardar EVO 120ER fans (25mm thick) between the top fan rack and the roof so that I can't see the fans from outside the case? I think that would look the best and motherboard would be well visible.
> 
> Let me know if you guys have any suggestions and I'll happily read them. I hope that 360mm rad won't affect my GPU temps negatively as I have no idea what would happen. I got no fans in the top, a Corsair AF140 in the back of the case and 2x 140mm Phanteks fans that came with the case in the front. For my surprise the 3 fans that came with the case are static pressure fans. Or at least they look like it (large heavy blades)
> 
> I have a little fear that the air flow restriction of the case will mess my temps and that's another reason why I don't want a thick rad. I also hope that the 360mm slim radiator is enough for the CPU. Yeah sure it's enough at stock clocks but 7700K's are damn hot CPU's without delidding. I'm not planning to overclock it that heavily yet, maybe later. My last CPU was delidded 4770K that could reach 4.9GHz bechmark stable on air so it's tempting for me to have a bit of fun overclocking. I have delidding tool but dunno if I want to void my warranty yet. Well let's see about that later.


You have a couple of fundamental errors here:

First, you should probably _not_ choose the worst performing radiators possible for your build. The EK SE series are absolutely putrid in terms of performance, and the restrictive environment will only hiner it. A HWL 360GTS outperforms it by ~25%, and at only 30mm thick performs as well as EK's 45mm thick offerings:



Full performance specs here - http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/

Second....you _could_ cram the fans where they don't belong, but they won't have room to move air. So you are taking a somewhat restrictive top and making it an airflow nightmare.If you are planning on modding ventilation into the top, it will work fine. With a stock top....not so much.

Third....for God's sake...get that Corsair AF out of the case and put the Phanteks fan back in.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3MMi*
> 
> Hey Guys! I'm planning on getting water cooling for my system in this case. My specs are Maximus IX Hero, 7700K, 16GB Trident Z 3200MHz, EVGA GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 and Corsair HX1200i with Cablemod cables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the moment I have Cryorig H5 Ultimate as a CPU cooler but it's barely keeping my CPU cool at 4.5GHz 1.145V.
> 
> The perfect radiator combo for looks would be EK-CoolStream SE 360 (26mm thick) in the top and EK-CoolStream SE 240 (26mm) in the front (at least IMO). 280mm would definitely be better in the front but I think that wouldn't fit that well. First I'll be getting my CPU on water and maybe later GPU as it will cost a lot.
> 
> So I'm thinking about getting that 360mm radiator on the top for my CPU. I'll get the other radiator later if I expand the loop for GPU. Can I put EK-Vardar EVO 120ER fans (25mm thick) between the top fan rack and the roof so that I can't see the fans from outside the case? I think that would look the best and motherboard would be well visible.
> 
> Let me know if you guys have any suggestions and I'll happily read them. I hope that 360mm rad won't affect my GPU temps negatively as I have no idea what would happen. I got no fans in the top, a Corsair AF140 in the back of the case and 2x 140mm Phanteks fans that came with the case in the front. For my surprise the 3 fans that came with the case are static pressure fans. Or at least they look like it (large heavy blades)
> 
> I have a little fear that the air flow restriction of the case will mess my temps and that's another reason why I don't want a thick rad. I also hope that the 360mm slim radiator is enough for the CPU. Yeah sure it's enough at stock clocks but 7700K's are damn hot CPU's without delidding. I'm not planning to overclock it that heavily yet, maybe later. My last CPU was delidded 4770K that could reach 4.9GHz bechmark stable on air so it's tempting for me to have a bit of fun overclocking. I have delidding tool but dunno if I want to void my warranty yet. Well let's see about that later.


Firstly welcome to the OCN forums








Secondly as some others have stated do not buy the EK slim radiators they are not very good, I know this from using one just how bad they really are, try the HWL GTS radiators if they are available to you in your area, if not the EK PE-360 combined with PE-240 will fit and is a better choice than the SE models. The Corsair ML fans work extremely well on radiators so they are worth a try. Before you go out and buy all this stuff DELID your 7700K, as you have said these CPU's do run very hot but putting all this really good water cooling gear in your case is going to do nothing in improving your CPU temps whilst ever there is a thermal bottleneck at your CPU between the die and heatspreader


----------



## MoDeNa

I was in your same situation some weeks ago and finally I went for two HWL Nemesis GTS 360, following the tips I received from the guys here. I bought also six Noiseblockers eLoop fans,

After some hours trying I did some fine tunning and I got a balanced config of airflow and my temps are very good. Playing BF1 under 4K resolution and ultra detail level, the GPU (Asus GTX 1080 Ti Strix OC) is about 48ºC-49ºC and my CPU (i7 6800k) is around 45ºC with an ambient temp of 25ºC-26ºC. The water temp is, under this work load, around 35ºC-38ºC. My pump (EK D5) is at 2.600 rpm and the fans are around 1.050 rpm.

I use Speedfan to reduce fan and pump rpm when the PC is idle. I must say that I've done the top mod as well. This is a must for this case in my humble opinion.

So, go for the HWL Nemesis rads, decide what fans do you want to use and enjoy your build! ahh, and don't forget to show us your result with some pics!


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoDeNa*
> 
> I was in your same situation some weeks ago and finally I went for two HWL Nemesis GTS 360, following the tips I received from the guys here. I bought also six Noiseblockers eLoop fans,
> 
> After some hours trying I did some fine tunning and I got a balanced config of airflow and my temps are very good. Playing BF1 under 4K resolution and ultra detail level, the GPU (Asus GTX 1080 Ti Strix OC) is about 48ºC-49ºC and my CPU (i7 6800k) is around 45ºC with an ambient temp of 25ºC-26ºC. The water temp is, under this work load, around 35ºC-38ºC. My pump (EK D5) is at 2.600 rpm and the fans are around 1.050 rpm.
> 
> I use Speedfan to reduce fan and pump rpm when the PC is idle. *I must say that I've done the top mod as well. This is a must for this case in my humble opinion.*
> 
> So, go for the HWL Nemesis rads, decide what fans do you want to use and enjoy your build! ahh, and don't forget to show us your result with some pics!


Have you run your system without the top being modded? Difference in temps?


----------



## MoDeNa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Have you run your system without the top being modded? Difference in temps?


I decided to mod the top with my previous config:

- i7 5820K @ 4 GHz
- Corsair H110i GTX
- SLI GTX 1070 FE

With the mod top done my temps dropped around 10ºC - 15ºC.

With my current config I didn't try to see the difference (i.e. covering the top with a towel or book).


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoDeNa*
> 
> I was in your same situation some weeks ago and finally I went for two HWL Nemesis GTS 360, following the tips I received from the guys here. I bought also six Noiseblockers eLoop fans,
> 
> After some hours trying I did some fine tunning and I got a balanced config of airflow and my temps are very good. Playing BF1 under 4K resolution and ultra detail level, the GPU (Asus GTX 1080 Ti Strix OC) is about 48ºC-49ºC and my CPU (i7 6800k) is around 45ºC with an ambient temp of 25ºC-26ºC. The water temp is, under this work load, around 35ºC-38ºC. My pump (EK D5) is at 2.600 rpm and the fans are around 1.050 rpm.
> 
> I use Speedfan to reduce fan and pump rpm when the PC is idle. I must say that I've done the top mod as well. This is a must for this case in my humble opinion.
> 
> So, go for the HWL Nemesis rads, decide what fans do you want to use and enjoy your build! ahh, and don't forget to show us your result with some pics!


Would 1 360mm GTS and 1 280mm GTS be more than enough if I add the motherboard to the simple loop of an OC'd 8700K and gtx 1080ti?


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Would 1 360mm GTS and 1 280mm GTS be more than enough if I add the motherboard to the simple loop of an OC'd 8700K and gtx 1080ti?


You again







absolutely one 1080Ti would output slightly less heat than my 2x GTX 1070 but your CPU probably a bit more than my CPU (4 cores vs 6 cores) however you have slightly more radiator surface area then I do so yeah I dont think you will have an issue.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> You again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> absolutely one 1080Ti would output slightly less heat than my 2x GTX 1070 but your CPU probably a bit more than my CPU (4 cores vs 6 cores) however you have slightly more radiator surface area then I do so yeah I dont think you will have an issue.


I'm everywhere







Am I still at the "saturation point" of adding more radiator surface won't further improve your temps if I include the mobo components in the loop? I know I'm near or at that point if I only the CPU and GPU is in my loop.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I'm everywhere
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Am I still at the "saturation point" of adding more radiator surface won't further improve your temps if I include the mobo components in the loop? I know I'm near or at that point if I only the CPU and GPU is in my loop.


Honestly I dont think the VRM block on the board you have in mind is really going to add a lot of heat, it isn't like they would be running at 100 degrees C like some of the X299 boards do, I would however recommend you delid the 8700K though as early reviews indicate these thing run even hotter than Kaby which makes sense given its 4 extra threads of basically the same architecture


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Honestly I dont think the VRM block on the board you have in mind is really going to add a lot of heat, it isn't like they would be running at 100 degrees C like some of the X299 boards do, I would however recommend you delid the 8700K though as early reviews indicate these thing run even hotter than Kaby which makes sense given its 4 extra threads of basically the same architecture


Good to know then! And yes, my delid kit is ready for action. I told you: I already have all the components on standby


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Good to know then! And yes, my delid kit is ready for action. I told you: I already have all the components on standby


Awesome







looking forward to your results and pics


----------



## Ubbidude

imma post my recent build here too, its taken apart for upgrades tho...



http://imgur.com/SIOfmO2


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ubbidude*
> 
> imma post my recent build here too, its taken apart for upgrades tho...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/SIOfmO2


Who is Imma?


----------



## Ubbidude




----------



## BreakDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ubbidude*
> 
> imma post my recent build here too, its taken apart for upgrades tho...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/SIOfmO2


Did you paint the inside of the case white? It looks very nice IMO. How did you go about it?

Also, if that screwdriver on the bottom left is a "dexter" branded screwdriver we are screwdriver brothers!


----------



## Ubbidude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BreakDown*
> 
> Did you paint the inside of the case white? It looks very nice IMO. How did you go about it?
> 
> Also, if that screwdriver on the bottom left is a "dexter" branded screwdriver we are screwdriver brothers!


It's a dexter indeed love the handle on it. I stripped the case as much as I could and masked off the stuff I didn't want painted
https://i.imgur.com/0W4bJNW.jpg
I used matte white plastidip, the entire can was enough for me


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ubbidude*
> 
> imma post my recent build here too, its taken apart for upgrades tho...
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/SIOfmO2


Love white interiors. So much easier to see what is in there ..







.. and so much easier to see while working on the build too.


----------



## Shoulon

I'm building a shopping cart for this case, what are you guys using to plug in all your radiator fans?


----------



## Ubbidude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoulon*
> 
> I'm building a shopping cart for this case, what are you guys using to plug in all your radiator fans?


Corsair commander pro


----------



## BreakDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ubbidude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BreakDown*
> 
> Did you paint the inside of the case white? It looks very nice IMO. How did you go about it?
> 
> Also, if that screwdriver on the bottom left is a "dexter" branded screwdriver we are screwdriver brothers!
> 
> 
> 
> It's a dexter indeed love the handle on it. I stripped the case as much as I could and masked off the stuff I didn't want painted
> https://i.imgur.com/0W4bJNW.jpg
> I used matte white plastidip, the entire can was enough for me
Click to expand...

It looks very very nice, im not confident in my painting skills, buit i might steal this idea from you.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoulon*
> 
> I'm building a shopping cart for this case, what are you guys using to plug in all your radiator fans?


I'm using the Phanteks hub. Works perfectly for my needs.


----------



## Shoulon

What are you
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I'm using the Phanteks hub. Works perfectly for my needs.


I Just noticed the case comes with the fan hub, lol. more then plenty of connections


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoulon*
> 
> I'm building a shopping cart for this case, what are you guys using to plug in all your radiator fans?


Individual motherboard fan headers


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoulon*
> 
> I'm building a shopping cart for this case, what are you guys using to plug in all your radiator fans?


Silverstone PWM hub. Best if you have LED fans.


----------



## BreakDown

I was wondering if you guys have photos from behind the mother board tray, i want to see your cable mangement.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BreakDown*
> 
> I was wondering if you guys have photos from behind the mother board tray, i want to see your cable mangement.


From previous set up when I still used the fan hub and still had mechanical HDD


----------



## BreakDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BreakDown*
> 
> I was wondering if you guys have photos from behind the mother board tray, i want to see your cable mangement.
> 
> 
> 
> From previous set up when I still used the fan hub and still had mechanical HDD
Click to expand...

Very nice. After seeing yours mine could use some more work, which was what i feared.

You removed the provided velcro ties, is there any reason you dont like to use them? Or is it just because you dont like how they look?

Anyway, nice cable management, the extensions look ver nice, been thinking about getting some white ones.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BreakDown*
> 
> Very nice. After seeing yours mine could use some more work, which was what i feared.
> 
> You removed the provided velcro ties, is there any reason you dont like to use them? Or is it just because you dont like how they look?
> 
> Anyway, nice cable management, the extensions look ver nice, been thinking about getting some white ones.


Thanks, actually they are not extensions but a cable kit from Corsair to suit my PSU, cabling looks much better now since I no longer have mechanical HDD and I have removed the fan hub but having said that there is only so much you can do with cables that are not custom lengths. I removed the velcro because they are pretty useless IMO


----------



## Codewerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BreakDown*
> 
> I was wondering if you guys have photos from behind the mother board tray, i want to see your cable mangement.


I routed all cabels through the top holes and hidden the fan hub in the top section behind my top rad. I also use only a m.2 ssd that removes alot of cabels.


----------



## petmic10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Codewerk*
> 
> I routed all cabels through the top holes and hidden the fan hub in the top section behind my top rad. I also use only a m.2 ssd that removes alot of cabels.


Nicely done.


----------



## unholysinz

Modified my front panel not the best cuts since i did by hand with a dremel but its looks decent lol


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unholysinz*
> 
> 
> 
> Modified my front panel not the best cuts since i did by hand with a dremel but its looks decent lol


Looks good to me, but it's so dark it's like a blind man seeing it when riding by on a galloping horse in the dark of the moon.
















How much difference did you find. I experimented on my air cooled Evolv ATX by spacing front out and even running without front installed and only found 2-3c maximum difference .. and that was stress testing at lower fan speeds. At full speed it wasn't as much.

It's the top that is really restrictive. Here is link to top vent area.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13240_20#post_25198233

Here is guide to removing top and blocking unused holes in radiator/fan tray.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13700_20#post_25268315


----------



## BreakDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Here is guide to removing top and blocking unused holes in radiator/fan tray.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13700_20#post_25268315


Ive seen this before and wanted to do it myself, but i cant think of a practical way to seal the holes, sealing it with tape seems like something you would have to mantian as some of the tape unsticks eventually because of the heat inside the case.

Is there any other method to seal the bracket that is more permament and does not require maintenance?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Codewerk*
> 
> I routed all cabels through the top holes and hidden the fan hub in the top section behind my top rad. I also use only a m.2 ssd that removes alot of cabels.


Very neat, impressed.


----------



## unholysinz

My setup is watercooled so underload im at 85c i live im southern cali so when i gets hot my pc suffers lol so far ive seen a 5c difference i have not modified the top yet but i will post when its done. For filling the holes ive used duckt tap i have not had any issues yet.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BreakDown*
> 
> Ive seen this before and wanted to do it myself, but i cant think of a practical way to seal the holes, sealing it with tape seems like something you would have to mantian as some of the tape unsticks eventually because of the heat inside the case.


I've used black paper and glue stick (washes off with soap & water .. like kids use in art classes), contact paper (like shelf liner)


----------



## unholysinz




----------



## unholysinz

and some pic of it turned on


----------



## kevindd992002

Any other alternatives in sealing off those tops?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Any other alternatives in sealing off those tops?


What 'tops' are you talking about?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What 'tops' are you talking about?


Those unused areas in the top


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Those unused areas in the top


Sorry, but I do not understand. The top of case as venting in front and back ends and 5 small grilled vents on each side. Why would you want to seal them?

Or are you talking about the radiator / fan mounting tray? If so, I gave a couple above in post #1550. There are all kinds of other possibilities from something like cardboard, construction paper, plastic or carbon fiber sheets cut to fit with only holes being used cut out of it to duct or masking tape .. just use your imagination,


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry, but I do not understand. The top of case as venting in front and back ends and 5 small grilled vents on each side. Why would you want to seal them?
> 
> Or are you talking about the radiator / fan mounting tray? If so, I gave a couple above in post #1550. There are all kinds of other possibilities from something like cardboard, construction paper, plastic or carbon fiber sheets cut to fit with only holes being used cut out of it to duct or masking tape .. just use your imagination,


I'm referring to the mounting tray, yes. I'll check your post. Thanks!

Would covering those be beneficial even though I already have the modded top vent from MMM?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I'm referring to the mounting tray, yes. I'll check your post. Thanks!
> 
> Would covering those be beneficial even though I already have the modded top vent from MMM?


While it won't make as much difference as with stock top, it will likely lower temps some. Air will flow thru the path of least resistance, and a big vent with mesh is still much more resistant to airflow then an open hole.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> While it won't make as much difference as with stock top, it will likely lower temps some. Air will flow thru the path of least resistance, and a big vent with mesh is still much more resistant to airflow then an open hole.


Gotcha. Thanks


----------



## HellBOmb

Is there any way to disassemble the PSU shroud to make it removable? Is it a solid piece of metal or do you just need to drill out a few rivets to remove it?


----------



## unholysinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HellBOmb*
> 
> Is there any way to disassemble the PSU shroud to make it removable? Is it a solid piece of metal or do you just need to drill out a few rivets to remove it?


I think its bolted on you just gotta look for the bolts


----------



## HellBOmb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unholysinz*
> 
> I think its bolted on you just gotta look for the bolts


Perfect! Thats exactly what I was hoping to hear, I want to make my own PSU cover without the obnoxious cutouts for the side of the PSU and the SSD cables, give it a cleaner look to go with the rest of the case.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HellBOmb*
> 
> Perfect! Thats exactly what I was hoping to hear, I want to make my own PSU cover without the obnoxious cutouts for the side of the PSU and the SSD cables, give it a cleaner look to go with the rest of the case.


Your better off making covers that cover that part up. If you take out the middle plate you are going to effect the case rigidity.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HellBOmb*
> 
> Perfect! Thats exactly what I was hoping to hear, I want to make my own PSU cover without the obnoxious cutouts for the side of the PSU and the SSD cables, give it a cleaner look to go with the rest of the case.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Your better off making covers that cover that part up. If you take out the middle plate you are going to effect the case rigidity.


@nycgtr is right, listen to him.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HellBOmb*
> 
> Perfect! Thats exactly what I was hoping to hear, I want to make my own PSU cover without the obnoxious cutouts for the side of the PSU and the SSD cables, give it a cleaner look to go with the rest of the case.


I covered mine in vinyl wrap. IMO that fixes the aesthetics.


----------



## HellBOmb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Your better off making covers that cover that part up. If you take out the middle plate you are going to effect the case rigidity.


Going to make a metal replacement that will fill the exact same area just without the holes. Should not affect the stability of the case.


----------



## RyanBRZ

Hey guys, I am piecing together a build for this case and I am trying to finalize my liquid parts. I ended up finding all fittings and possibly rads made by Barrow which I've heard is a good part manufacturer. My question is do you think I can fit a 360x34 up top and a 240x34 in the front?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanBRZ*
> 
> Hey guys, I am piecing together a build for this case and I am trying to finalize my liquid parts. I ended up finding all fittings and possibly rads made by Barrow which I've heard is a good part manufacturer. My question is do you think I can fit a 360x34 up top and a 240x34 in the front?


Easily, but I'd suggest a 280 front, 280 top, 140 side, 140 outside, and 360 rear.


----------



## RyanBRZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Easily, but I'd suggest a 280 front, 280 top, 140 side, 140 outside, and 360 rear.


Funny guy lol. So with a 360x34 on top and 240x34 in the front I will still have room for a 120 exhaust in the rear? No conflicts with CPU block?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanBRZ*
> 
> Funny guy lol. So with a 360x34 on top and 240x34 in the front I will still have room for a 120 exhaust in the rear? No conflicts with CPU block?


Yeah no conflicts. It only gets difficult when you have 140 amd 280mm rads with a motherboard VRM waterblock.

BTW I'm also Ryan amd S2K driver.


----------



## RyanBRZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Yeah no conflicts. It only gets difficult when you have 140 amd 280mm rads with a motherboard VRM waterblock.
> 
> BTW I'm also Ryan amd S2K driver.


Nice! I love and miss the S2000. I had a MY2000 silverstone metallic with red interior from 2004 to 2010 as my daily driver. Reallly regret selling it but I am happy in the BRZ.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanBRZ*
> 
> Nice! I love and miss the S2000. I had a MY2000 silverstone metallic with red interior from 2004 to 2010 as my daily driver. Reallly regret selling it but I am happy in the BRZ.


Nice. I bought an '06 Sterling Silver with 20k miles in '09 and daily drove until '14. It's been in storage since then.


----------



## DarthBaggins

S2k's are a fun car, would love to have one in Honda EBP


----------



## Granpa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanBRZ*
> 
> Funny guy lol. So with a 360x34 on top and 240x34 in the front I will still have room for a 120 exhaust in the rear? No conflicts with CPU block?


Go with a thinner radiator for the top if you can (i.e. HWL nemesis).
Every mm counts with a 360 radiator at the top imo, either for more space to fit a rear 120mm intake/exhaust fan or to accommodate a "taller" front 240mm radiator.


----------



## RyanBRZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Granpa*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RyanBRZ*
> 
> Funny guy lol. So with a 360x34 on top and 240x34 in the front I will still have room for a 120 exhaust in the rear? No conflicts with CPU block?
> 
> 
> 
> Go with a thinner radiator for the top if you can (i.e. HWL nemesis).
> Every mm counts with a 360 radiator at the top imo, either for more space to fit a rear 120mm intake/exhaust fan or to accommodate a "taller" front 240mm radiator.
Click to expand...

Ordered the barrow 360x34 and 240x34 last night, hoping the both fit


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanBRZ*
> 
> Ordered the barrow 360x34 and 240x34 last night, hoping the both fit




That really depends on how you mount your front radiator.

Per thread I see loads of questions that have been answered like 90 times. If people would just look at the gallery for this thread, it would answer what they want to ask.


----------



## RyanBRZ

I was planning on mounting it on the shelf so it goes close to the top. Im guessing it will not fit this way? I did dig through 15 or so pages of this thread but didn't think to look at the gallery. With the gallery is not possible to determine size specs of each rad though.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanBRZ*
> 
> I was planning on mounting it on the shelf so it goes close to the top. Im guessing it will not fit this way? I did dig through 15 or so pages of this thread but didn't think to look at the gallery. With the gallery is not possible to determine size specs of each rad though.


It's the same handful of rads being used in general. If you mount a 360 or 240/280 (that doesn't go into the basement) your not fitting a fan 25mm fan in the back with a 360 on top. The only to get a rear fan is to mount a 240/280 on top 360 infront. Or basement front 240/280, 360 on top. Otherwise 360/360 slim with a 15mm fan in the back.


----------



## RyanBRZ

Thanks nycgtr, appreciate your input. So it looks like my rads will work, I just need to decide on 360 up top with 240 in the front down to the basement or 240 up top towards the front with 360 up front.


----------



## RyanBRZ

Does anyone know if I will be able to fit a XSPC Photon D5 170 in this case with a 360x34 rad up top?

Edit: I think I'm good


http://imgur.com/mVe8F


----------



## RyanBRZ

I will have a 240 or 360 rad up front, can I use the two fans that come with the case for rad cooling purposes? Or do the fans need to be connected to the rads to get the proper cooling?

If I cannot use the stock front fans for the radiator, would it be beneficial to use these to suck/blow are out/in from the case mounted on the bottom side of the basement roof?


----------



## aberrero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanBRZ*
> 
> I will have a 240 or 360 rad up front, can I use the two fans that come with the case for rad cooling purposes? Or do the fans need to be connected to the rads to get the proper cooling?
> 
> If I cannot use the stock front fans for the radiator, would it be beneficial to use these to suck/blow are out/in from the case mounted on the bottom side of the basement roof?


i have a 240 rad in the front, with dual 120 fans behind it in pull and dual 140 fans that came with the case in push. I think its necessary to get good airflow with the fan filter.


----------



## RyanBRZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aberrero*
> 
> i have a 240 rad in the front, with dual 120 fans behind it in pull and dual 140 fans that came with the case in push. I think its necessary to get good airflow with the fan filter.


I just took another look at this and the 140's that come with it in the front look perfect for feeding the radiator without the use of a 2nd set for pull (not saying the 2nd set wouldn't help). It looks like many others have done this and it looks clean so I may try this way. Plus, I am likely going to go with the modded top and front made by ModMyMods.com so hopefully I can get away with just the one set..


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanBRZ*
> 
> I just took another look at this and the 140's that come with it in the front look perfect for feeding the radiator without the use of a 2nd set for pull (not saying the 2nd set wouldn't help). It looks like many others have done this and it looks clean so I may try this way. Plus, I am likely going to go with the modded top and front made by ModMyMods.com so hopefully I can get away with just the one set..


Using 140mm fans in front of a 240mm rad will essentially result in little to no air passing through the rad. Air will take the path of least resistance. That path will be *around* the rad. If you are going to use a 240mm rad, break down and spend ~$30 on the right fans for it.


----------



## RyanBRZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Using 140mm fans in front of a 240mm rad will essentially result in little to no air passing through the rad. Air will take the path of least resistance. That path will be *around* the rad. If you are going to use a 240mm rad, break down and spend ~$30 on the right fans for it.


It's not about the money, I just did not want 4 fans in the front of my case. I see what you're saying and I didn't think of that---replace the 140's with 120's in the front so they are the right size for my radiators. I didn't think it would matter if they were not the exact same size. Thinking about that, I dont think it would be possible to use the 140's because the screws for the radiator would probably go into the 140 fan blades.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Only way the 140's will function properly is with 120-140mm adapters


----------



## RyanBRZ

Thanks guys. Wondering if I can re-purpose the 140(s) somewhere, maybe put one on the floor below the mobo as an exhaust?


----------



## aberrero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Using 140mm fans in front of a 240mm rad will essentially result in little to no air passing through the rad. Air will take the path of least resistance. That path will be *around* the rad. If you are going to use a 240mm rad, break down and spend ~$30 on the right fans for it.


Unless you do a push/pull configuration, in which case the path of least resistance is through the radiator.


----------



## nycgtr

Was bored. Move my x399 zenith to this case to make room for the rampage vi. EATX no problem now. Apartment living gotta be in the kitchen.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Was bored. Move my x399 zenith to this case to make room for the rampage vi. EATX no problem now. Apartment living gotta be in the kitchen.


This case has so much potential once you start cutting out unnecessary material. But where's the top??


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Was bored. Move my x399 zenith to this case to make room for the rampage vi. EATX no problem now. Apartment living gotta be in the kitchen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


I like the way that looks.
How much did that weaken the motherboard tray and HDD mounting panel?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I like the way that looks.
> How much did that weaken the motherboard tray and HDD mounting panel?


Well I knew I couldn't separate it completely as that would create an insane amount of flex. So i removed just enough that the board can pass thru without touching. In terms of flex it doesn't seem bad at all. The HDD area wont be used to mount anything so that plate really just has to hold the board up.

The top is off because I have to mod it as well.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Well I knew I couldn't separate it completely as that would create an insane amount of flex. So i removed just enough that the board can pass thru without touching. In terms of flex it doesn't seem bad at all. The HDD area wont be used to mount anything so that plate really just has to hold the board up.
> 
> The top is off because I have to mod it as well.


You cam use vinyl automotive trim for the sharp edges.


----------



## RyanBRZ

Has anyone used the replacement top and front from modmymods? Did you see much of an improvement?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanBRZ*
> 
> Has anyone used the replacement top and front from modmymods? Did you see much of an improvement?


There is a good improvement. I tested the prototype of the final product. It's worth it imo.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> You cam use vinyl automotive trim for the sharp edges.


Yeah I planned on doing that. Got some left overs from doing my car door haha.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanBRZ*
> 
> Has anyone used the replacement top and front from modmymods? Did you see much of an improvement?


100% worth it. I would say the modded top cover is essential and the front is optional. For the front you can to the DIY extension mod. That simply means replacing the screws on the front panel mounting brackets with longer ones, to extend the panel from the case. You may have to do a little digging in this thread or the main owners thread.


----------



## doyll

Thanks @nycgtr
I did similar in a case several years ago, but did about a 8mm wide 90 degree bent edge so it would remain rigidity.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanBRZ*
> 
> Has anyone used the replacement top and front from modmymods? Did you see much of an improvement?


I haven't used them but know the top definitely improves airflow. I doubt the front makes too much difference.


----------



## RyanBRZ

Even with a radiator up front? I would think that airflow would help a lot. Or is there already enough of a gap on the sides of the front plate for the air to get in? May just do washer mod if this is the case.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanBRZ*
> 
> Even with a radiator up front? I would think that airflow would help a lot. Or is there already enough of a gap on the sides of the front plate for the air to get in? May just do washer mod if this is the case.


The gap around the front flows a lot more air then most think because there is not grill. Grills typically reduce ariflow by 31-70%. Some even more.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22657923


----------



## RyanBRZ

When you say grill, are you referring to the screen material on the plastic grid behind the metal panel?


----------



## nycgtr

The front panel extended by 3-4mm will be enough that it would be nearly the same as a modified front panel or no front panel. The top panel is where a modification is most beneficial.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanBRZ*
> 
> When you say grill, are you referring to the screen material on the plastic grid behind the metal panel?


No idea who you are talking to or what you are talking about.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> The front panel extended by 3-4mm will be enough that it would be nearly the same as a modified front panel or no front panel. The top panel is where a modification is most beneficial.


When I tested mine by spacing it about 5-6mm I found no difference in cooling. Even removing the front panel only gave me 1-2c lower temps .. but then my CPU runs at about 60c @ 100% load .. fans at 1000-1100rpm.


----------



## paskowitz

I _think_ it depends how your loop is setup and what speed your fans are at. A modded front helps a modded top more than a not modded top.

IMO the front mod should be a given for any Evolv owner because it is is essentially free and doesn't change the looks of the case to any meaningful degree.

There are other factors to consider as well. Don't choose a high FPI radiator and low SP fans. There is a reason most people here go with a HWL GTS rads and quality SP fans. You go with an EK SE (22fpi) rad with something like Corsair HD fans... you aren't doing your Evolv any favors.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I _think_ it depends how your loop is setup and what speed your fans are at. A modded front helps a modded top more than a not modded top.
> 
> IMO the front mod should be a given for any Evolv owner because it is is essentially free and doesn't change the looks of the case to any meaningful degree.
> 
> There are other factors to consider as well. Don't choose a high FPI radiator and low SP fans. There is a reason most people here go with a HWL GTS rads and quality SP fans. You go with an EK SE (22fpi) rad with something like Corsair HD fans... you aren't doing your Evolv any favors.


I _know_ that back with 5 open PCIe slots and no rear fan behind CPU flows a few times more air then front can in stock, 5-6mm spacing made only 1-2c difference.

IMO the front spacing made little difference .. is a waste of time and detracts from case aesthetics more than it helps . Been there and done that using technical/scientific procedure/standards and got the above data. Top venting does make more of a difference if using H2O with radiator in top and high speed fans.


----------



## brab

Hi guys,

If somebody would be willing to help me I would appreciate it greatly!
Am very experienced (20+ years) at bulding desktops, however this will be the first time I venture to do water cooling and challenge wise (to try something new) I opted to do a custom loop (soft tubing for the first build) vs AIO solutions.
Will be only doing CPU cooling, no GPU.
I purchased Enthoo Evolv ATX case, hence posting in this thread.









I have two questions regard it :

1. I am planning to get those pump/res combo EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM and install it vertically, as most people did:
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-pwm-incl-sl-pump

My idea is to mount EK-CoolStream CE 280 (Dual) on the front.
From what I read on here using the pump bracket that comes with the case is no joy (too low), so I was wondering which size bracket from EKWB should I order to mount it on the case?
EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm FAN) Vertical or EK-UNI Pump Bracket (140mm FAN) Vertical?
I tried to get advice both from Phanteks and EKWB on that question, neither answered it to be honest, just some generic info.

2. Should I install additional two 140mm fans on the top (in either push or pull config) to help with temperature inside the case or it's not deemed necessary?
For now no immediate plans on overclocking, want to see first how everything goes.
There will be another 140mm fan on the back for exhaust.

Thanks very much for any advice!


----------



## Granpa

You can mount to either the rear panel of case or mount to front radiator.

For mounting on the rear panel, you may need adjustable brackets (I used this https://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=171_187&products_id=5661) and some screws with nuts.Vibration noise can be an issue so use some rubber grommets.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brab*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> If somebody would be willing to help me I would appreciate it greatly!
> Am very experienced (20+ years) at bulding desktops, however this will be the first time I venture to do water cooling and challenge wise (to try something new) I opted to do a custom loop (soft tubing for the first build) vs AIO solutions.
> Will be only doing CPU cooling, no GPU.
> I purchased Enthoo Evolv ATX case, hence posting in this thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have two questions regard it :
> 
> 1. I am planning to get those pump/res combo EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM and install it vertically, as most people did:
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-pwm-incl-sl-pump
> 
> My idea is to mount EK-CoolStream CE 280 (Dual) on the front.
> From what I read on here using the pump bracket that comes with the case is no joy (too low), so I was wondering which size bracket from EKWB should I order to mount it on the case?
> EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm FAN) Vertical or EK-UNI Pump Bracket (140mm FAN) Vertical?
> I tried to get advice both from Phanteks and EKWB on that question, neither answered it to be honest, just some generic info.
> 
> 2. Should I install additional two 140mm fans on the top (in either push or pull config) to help with temperature inside the case or it's not deemed necessary?
> For now no immediate plans on overclocking, want to see first how everything goes.
> There will be another 140mm fan on the back for exhaust.
> 
> Thanks very much for any advice!


First, welcome to the wonderful addiction, erm, I mean world of water cooling. If this is ypur first go around, I would highly recommend doing some research and getting opinions from more experienced users, and those who have used a multitude of components prior to finalizing your loop. You will get thousands of users who have been water cooling forntwo years and have never used anything else pushing you to fall into the EK trap, while those that have used many different components will have a much different opinion due to actual experience with products. EK makes great blocks, a couple of good rads, and there is a big tail off on the other components.

But, to answer your questions....

1. If you use the Revo (which you very likely would not if you saw it it next to an XSPC Photon, Monsoon MMRS or Heatkiller prior to purchase) with the 280 rad, you need the 140mm mount.

2. Top fans would do very little, and would actually do absolutely nothing but recirculate air in the case unless you isolate them by blocking all open areas to the chamber of the case.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> First, welcome to the wonderful addiction, erm, I mean world of water cooling. If this is ypur first go around, I would highly recommend doing some research and getting opinions from more experienced users, and those who have used a multitude of components prior to finalizing your loop. You will get thousands of users who have been water cooling forntwo years and have never used anything else pushing you to fall into the EK trap, while those that have used many different components will have a much different opinion due to actual experience with products. EK makes great blocks, a couple of good rads, and there is a big tail off on the other components.
> 
> But, to answer your questions....
> 
> 1. *If you use the Revo (which you very likely would not if you saw it it next to an XSPC Photon, Monsoon MMRS or Heatkiller prior to purchase) with the 280 rad, you need the 140mm mount.
> *
> 2. Top fans would do very little, and would actually do absolutely nothing but recirculate air in the case unless you isolate them by blocking all open areas to the chamber of the case.


What exactly is wrong with the Revo? Not trying to be an EK fanboy here but I have had no issues with mine and recently upgraded it to the RGB version which looks a little better than the previous version. Whilst you may be based in the U.S not all of us have the opportunity to buy anything other than EK at least locally, also for a first time water cooler something like a Revo is a good way to go from a simplicity point of view







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brab*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> If somebody would be willing to help me I would appreciate it greatly!
> Am very experienced (20+ years) at bulding desktops, however this will be the first time I venture to do water cooling and challenge wise (to try something new) I opted to do a custom loop (soft tubing for the first build) vs AIO solutions.
> Will be only doing CPU cooling, no GPU.
> I purchased Enthoo Evolv ATX case, hence posting in this thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have two questions regard it :
> 
> 1. I am planning to get those pump/res combo EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM and install it vertically, as most people did:
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-pwm-incl-sl-pump
> 
> My idea is to mount EK-CoolStream CE 280 (Dual) on the front.
> From what I read on here using the pump bracket that comes with the case is no joy (too low), so I was wondering which size bracket from EKWB should I order to mount it on the case?
> EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm FAN) Vertical or EK-UNI Pump Bracket (140mm FAN) Vertical?
> I tried to get advice both from Phanteks and EKWB on that question, neither answered it to be honest, just some generic info.
> 
> 2. Should I install additional two 140mm fans on the top (in either push or pull config) to help with temperature inside the case or it's not deemed necessary?
> For now no immediate plans on overclocking, want to see first how everything goes.
> There will be another 140mm fan on the back for exhaust.
> 
> Thanks very much for any advice!


Easiest way to mount the Revo to a front mounted CE280 radiator is to use this bracket
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-140mm-fan


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> What exactly is wrong with the Revo? Not trying to be an EK fanboy here but I have had no issues with mine and recently upgraded it to the RGB version which looks a little better than the previous version. Whilst you may be based in the U.S not all of us have the opportunity to buy anything other than EK at least locally, also for a first time water cooler something like a Revo is a good way to go from a simplicity point of view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easiest way to mount the Revo to a front mounted CE280 radiator is to use this bracket
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-140mm-fan


The revo pump top is a good top. He's referring to the reservoir part. EK reservoirs are pretty crap compared to the competition. They feel cheaply made in hand vs something like xspc, monsoon, etc. I have a few from the older days of EK to the newest versions non rgb. I have to say even the older ones were much better in quality.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> The revo pump top is a good top. He's referring to the reservoir part. EK reservoirs are pretty crap compared to the competition. They feel cheaply made in hand vs something like xspc, monsoon, etc. I have a few from the older days of EK to the newest versions non rgb. I have to say even the older ones were much better in quality.


Fair call but how a res looks is really a matter of personal taste and what suits your built or theme, the only thing I will say is the EK res does scratch easily, though there is a glass version. As stated Im not an EK fanboy but in Australia it is pretty much all you can buy off the shelf and O.P may have the same issue in his country, this is something many in the U.S take for granted


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Fair call but how a res looks is really a matter of personal taste and what suits your built or theme, the only thing I will say is the EK res does scratch easily, though there is a glass version. As stated Im not an EK fanboy but in Australia it is pretty much all you can buy off the shelf and O.P may have the same issue in his country, this is something many in the U.S take for granted


The person asking the question seemed to be doing so in US English, so I went that way. And, yes, many markets where only EK is readily available is rough. But if you are in the US, spendimg as much or more for lower quality components because a thousand inexperienced water coolers tell you to is silly. How do you take a recommendation on an item from someone who has nothing to compare it to? Happens far too much with EK.

And as @nycgtr pointed out, what I said has nothing to do with looks. My reference was to design, material and build quality. And it extends well beyond the reservoirs. I stand behind my statement of great blocks, some good rads (and the singular worst rad on the market from a name brand in the SE), with everything else being being mediocre. On the plus side, they don't make any bad components aside from the SE. You can simply get better for less or similar cost in the US.


----------



## brab

Damn it, I figured that was gonna happen...right when I thought I have everything selected, I am back to 0!!!








Thanks to all of you for good comments and thanks for the welcome!!!
I did a lot of research so far, days on end, but the more I read the more I flip/flop.
I appreciate the good guidance especially being that I am a complete noob to this.

I have lived for 10 years in the US, hence the US English, but now I am located in Croatia.
So yes, selection is greatly narrowed, but now that I have inspected WATERCOOL Heatkiller products (which are available for me to purchase) I DEFINITELY want their reservoir...it looks miles ahead better of EKWB and aluminum/glass vs plastic.

I am assuming the 150 size is ok?
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/secd398815a44/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30204

I definitely would like to have pump/reservoir combo, it's easier than to do a separate pump, and plus I think it looks miles better.
Which D5 would you suggest to go with it?
EKWB D5-PWM or WCP D5-PWM (Watercool) or something else?

Their water block also looks great (I hope it's a good choice?):
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/secd398815a44/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/18000

For fittings I have decided to use Bitspower, they have some great looking ones, plus come highly recommended by the community.
For the radiator I still think I will stick to EK-CoolStream CE 280, as Watercool doesn't make one in 280 size.
Tubing I was gonna get in 16/10mm (ID 3/8" - OD 5/8") size, from what I read that's optimal for bends and all.
If there is any recommendations for the supplier of it (I did read in this thread that EKWB is good for soft tubing), please go ahead.
Watercool sells Masterkleer 16/10mm, dunno if that's good.

Lastly to go back to my original question I was hoping to use the existing positions that the case offers (that's one of the reasons why I bought it), using the case's pump bracket, and not mount the pump/reservoir to the radiator, but to the case bottom or back (I prefer the vertical mount), that's why I asked the question.

Oh yes, top fans idea is now scrapped, actually pleased with that...less noise, less to clean.


----------



## cstkl1

tempted to change to corsair 570. but hmm first aio and i say i impressed


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cstkl1*
> 
> 
> 
> tempted to change to corsair 570. but hmm first aio and i say i impressed


Corsair is not near as good quality. I've had experience with clear glass 'things' .. like tables, and a case. A royal pain in the posterior to keep looking good. Fingerprints, dust, anything and everything shows up making them look bad.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brab*
> 
> So yes, selection is greatly narrowed, but now that I have inspected WATERCOOL Heatkiller products (which are available for me to purchase) I DEFINITELY want their reservoir...it looks miles ahead better of EKWB and aluminum/glass vs plastic.
> 
> I am assuming the 150 size is ok?
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/secd398815a44/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30204


You have 320mm in height to work with, and the 150 with pump and stand is 250mm tall. So, that will be great if you do front rad only. If you add a top rad, it will get really tight for filling but will still fit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brab*
> 
> I definitely would like to have pump/reservoir combo, it's easier than to do a separate pump, and plus I think it looks miles better.
> Which D5 would you suggest to go with it?
> EKWB D5-PWM or WCP D5-PWM (Watercool) or something else?


The actual pump is the same on both, the only difference is the PWM circuit. I'm not aware of issues with either, but you should do a quick search just to be sure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brab*
> 
> Their water block also looks great (I hope it's a good choice?):
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/secd398815a44/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/18000


The HeatKillers are generally considered the best CPU block on the market, and tend to show the best results in testing.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brab*
> 
> For fittings I have decided to use Bitspower, they have some great looking ones, plus come highly recommended by the community.
> For the radiator I still think I will stick to EK-CoolStream CE 280, as Watercool doesn't make one in 280 size.
> Tubing I was gonna get in 16/10mm (ID 3/8" - OD 5/8") size, from what I read that's optimal for bends and all.
> If there is any recommendations for the supplier of it (I did read in this thread that EKWB is good for soft tubing), please go ahead.
> Watercool sells Masterkleer 16/10mm, dunno if that's good.


16/10 is definitely most users tubing of choice for the reasons you mentioned, and Bitspower fittings are top notch. I believe that the EK tubing is repackaged Primochill, which is a good thing, but I am not 100% certain on that. The EK ZMT tubing is _not_ Primochill, and is a great idea....but also tends to have terrible sizing tolerances and often runs too large in the OD, making it a real PITA to use with anything except EK fittings....which, of course, have issues of their own.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brab*
> 
> Lastly to go back to my original question I was hoping to use the existing positions that the case offers (that's one of the reasons why I bought it), using the case's pump bracket, and not mount the pump/reservoir to the radiator, but to the case bottom or back (I prefer the vertical mount), that's why I asked the question.
> 
> Oh yes, top fans idea is now scrapped, actually pleased with that...less noise, less to clean.


The HeatKiller mounting kit (http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30236) looks like it should give you the flexibility to use the existing holes with no drilling. Not a guarantee, but it certainly appears that way.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Corsair is not near as good quality.


After looking at the build and reading the comment about the X62, I am going to go out on a limb and say that "ability to light up" is more important than quality in this case.


----------



## brab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You have 320mm in height to work with, and the 150 with pump and stand is 250mm tall. So, that will be great if you do front rad only. If you add a top rad, it will get really tight for filling but will still fit.
> The actual pump is the same on both, the only difference is the PWM circuit. I'm not aware of issues with either, but you should do a quick search just to be sure.
> The HeatKillers are generally considered the best CPU block on the market, and tend to show the best results in testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 16/10 is definitely most users tubing of choice for the reasons you mentioned, and Bitspower fittings are top notch. I believe that the EK tubing is repackaged Primochill, which is a good thing, but I am not 100% certain on that. The EK ZMT tubing is _not_ Primochill, and is a great idea....but also tends to have terrible sizing tolerances and often runs too large in the OD, making it a real PITA to use with anything except EK fittings....which, of course, have issues of their own.
> The HeatKiller mounting kit (http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30236) looks like it should give you the flexibility to use the existing holes with no drilling. Not a guarantee, but it certainly appears that way.


I am SO glad you are thumbs up on most things I wrote!









I won't have any 3.5" devices so the pump/reservoir I can mount in the lower possible position, if needed.
Watercooling the GPU I think I will not go for while my 1080Ti is in warranty for sure...maybe after.

So I have narrowed it to:
HEATKILLER® IV PRO (INTEL processor)
HEATKILLER® IV Backplate
HEATKILLER® Tube 150 D5
EK-D5 PWM G2 Motor (checked a lot of text and their PWM circuitry is overall better)

I have spent most of the day reading about radiators and the best choice for performance would for sure be NEMESIS GTR 280 or GTX 280, but I think it's too thick for the front install?
What's your opinion?
When comparing GTS 280 vs EKWB CE280, EKWB is better.
I wanna go with 280mm radiator because 140mm fans are quieter overall.
And I would prefer a front mounted for sure...looks much better than top.

Tubing I will go with PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT.

Once I select the radiator then I can order everything...yay!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brab*
> 
> I am SO glad you are thumbs up on most things I wrote!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I won't have any 3.5" devices so the pump/reservoir I can mount in the lower possible position, if needed.
> Watercooling the GPU I think I will not go for while my 1080Ti is in warranty for sure...maybe after.
> 
> So I have narrowed it to:
> HEATKILLER® IV PRO (INTEL processor)
> HEATKILLER® IV Backplate
> HEATKILLER® Tube 150 D5
> EK-D5 PWM G2 Motor (checked a lot of text and their PWM circuitry is overall better)
> 
> I have spent most of the day reading about radiators and the best choice for performance would for sure be NEMESIS GTR 280 or GTX 280, but I think it's too thick for the front install?
> What's your opinion?
> When comparing GTS 280 vs EKWB CE280, EKWB is better.
> I wanna go with 280mm radiator because 140mm fans are quieter overall.
> And I would prefer a front mounted for sure...looks much better than top.
> 
> Tubing I will go with PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT.
> 
> Once I select the radiator then I can order everything...yay!


Well....first off.....the GTS performs better than the CE at low fans speeds, and the CE only matches the GTS at high fan speeds. So, in normal usage, the GTS is a better performing rad - but the difference is extremely minimal. Also, you would need to cut the opening in the PSU shroud to get an HWL rad in there as they run wider than almost any other rad on the market. So, stick with the CE. You have plenty of depth for the GTX or GTR, but it will get in the way of mounting the res where you want to, and you would have to cut the PSU shroud as noted. The CE is a great choice for what you are doing.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brab*
> 
> I am SO glad you are thumbs up on most things I wrote!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I won't have any 3.5" devices so the pump/reservoir I can mount in the lower possible position, if needed.
> Watercooling the GPU I think I will not go for while my 1080Ti is in warranty for sure...maybe after.
> 
> So I have narrowed it to:
> HEATKILLER® IV PRO (INTEL processor)
> HEATKILLER® IV Backplate
> HEATKILLER® Tube 150 D5
> EK-D5 PWM G2 Motor (checked a lot of text and their PWM circuitry is overall better)
> 
> I have spent most of the day reading about radiators and the best choice for performance would for sure be NEMESIS GTR 280 or GTX 280, but I think it's too thick for the front install?
> What's your opinion?
> When comparing GTS 280 vs EKWB CE280, EKWB is better.
> I wanna go with 280mm radiator because 140mm fans are quieter overall.
> And I would prefer a front mounted for sure...looks much better than top.
> 
> Tubing I will go with PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT.
> 
> Once I select the radiator then I can order everything...yay!


You can do both. I have a Nemesis GTR in the front and a CE280 up top. A GTX/GTR is too wide to slide through the removable plate without cutting the case.


----------



## Stoff

EK 420 Rad fits with quite a bit of work. It sits ond the bottom leg and the top sits perfectly under the support bar under the power switch.
Although the dust at the bottom looks aweful, the cut is really clean, very pleased.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stoff*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK 420 Rad fits with quite a bit of work. It sits ond the bottom leg and the top sits perfectly under the support bar under the power switch.
> Although the dust at the bottom looks aweful, the cut is really clean, very pleased.


nice cut


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stoff*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK 420 Rad fits with quite a bit of work. It sits ond the bottom leg and the top sits perfectly under the support bar under the power switch.
> Although the dust at the bottom looks aweful, the cut is really clean, very pleased.


This is the water cooling equivalent of putting a Corvette V8 in a Mazda Miata and I love it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> This is the water cooling equivalent of putting a Corvette V8 in a Mazda Miata and I love it.


Is it?


----------



## strokin3

Hey guys,

Been a while since I posted in this thread. Whats the most optimal set up right now ? I was going to pick up the EK PE kit :

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-p360#ow_alert_box

Looks like people recommend GTS though? Also does anyone have a list of nice modded tops for the Evolv ATX tempered glass edition? I heard the air flow gets 2x better with modded tops.

Thanks again!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stoff*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK 420 Rad fits with quite a bit of work. It sits ond the bottom leg and the top sits perfectly under the support bar under the power switch.
> Although the dust at the bottom looks aweful, the cut is really clean, very pleased.


Nice job!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Been a while since I posted in this thread. Whats the most optimal set up right now ? I was going to pick up the EK PE kit :
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-p360#ow_alert_box
> 
> Looks like people recommend GTS though? Also does anyone have a list of nice modded tops for the Evolv ATX tempered glass edition? I heard the air flow gets 2x better with modded tops.
> 
> Thanks again!


Well, yeah, the GTS suits the case well since it performs well in low airflow situations. Because the "best rad" is the one that actually works correctly where you are putting it. Not to mention that the 30mm GTS will outperform the 45mm EK at low fan speeds and match it at higher fan speeds in a completely non-restrictive environment. So, in a case as small as the Evolv ATX, you get all around better performance without taking up unnecessary space by using a GTS.

Plus, if your budget affords you to not need to buy a kit....you can buy a significantly nicer and better made reservoir (HeatKiller, Monsoon MMRS, XSPC Photon, etc) for similar cost and get 10/16 tubing and fittings (instead of the 10/13 included in the kit) of better quality.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stoff*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK 420 Rad fits with quite a bit of work. It sits ond the bottom leg and the top sits perfectly under the support bar under the power switch.
> Although the dust at the bottom looks aweful, the cut is really clean, very pleased.


I am kind of jelly you got that 420 to fit. I have a 280 front, 280 top, and 2x140 rear. Did you cut the fan mounts to allow more airflow?


----------



## brab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Well....first off.....the GTS performs better than the CE at low fans speeds, and the CE only matches the GTS at high fan speeds. So, in normal usage, the GTS is a better performing rad - but the difference is extremely minimal. Also, you would need to cut the opening in the PSU shroud to get an HWL rad in there as they run wider than almost any other rad on the market. So, stick with the CE. You have plenty of depth for the GTX or GTR, but it will get in the way of mounting the res where you want to, and you would have to cut the PSU shroud as noted. The CE is a great choice for what you are doing.


Yea, I just checked and width of GTX/GTR/GTS is the same..








It's only 8mm wider than CE, too bad...I have the dremel and all, but I really would feel bad cutting this beautiful case...
I would have rather mounted it on top in that case...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> You can do both. I have a Nemesis GTR in the front and a CE280 up top. A GTX/GTR is too wide to slide through the removable plate without cutting the case.


Yes, cutting the case wasn't an option for me...








I searched to find your build and you have like 5 radiators in it right?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stoff*
> 
> EK 420 Rad fits with quite a bit of work. It sits ond the bottom leg and the top sits perfectly under the support bar under the power switch.
> Although the dust at the bottom looks aweful, the cut is really clean, very pleased.


Man that thing is HUGE!!!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Been a while since I posted in this thread. Whats the most optimal set up right now ? I was going to pick up the EK PE kit :
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-p360#ow_alert_box


If you are considering EK AIO kit they have just announced this (available December 1st):
https://www.ekwb.com/news/ek-mlc-phoenix/

Might be worth checking it out...


----------



## Stoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I am kind of jelly you got that 420 to fit. I have a 280 front, 280 top, and 2x140 rear. Did you cut the fan mounts to allow more airflow?


Yes I did. There is zero interference on either side of the res. I am now using push/pull in order to keep the system as silent as possibe. The top of the chassis will be completely sealed with a perspex panel and I will add a 140 rad in push pull on the rear (rad and 1 fan on the outside). The bottom grille above the psu will have a machined grey panel with a cut-out for a section of 2mm mirror. The wc gpu will be fully visible.
In addition, the front panel will have a cutout and a piece of tempered glass covering the hole with 10mm clearance.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stoff*
> 
> Yes I did. There is zero interference on either side of the res. I am now using push/pull in order to keep the system as silent as possibe. The top of the chassis will be completely sealed with a perspex panel and I will add a 140 rad in push pull on the rear (rad and 1 fan on the outside). The bottom grille above the psu will have a machined grey panel with a cut-out for a section of 2mm mirror. The wc gpu will be fully visible.


For the rear radiator, I would suggest cutting a round hole in the honeycomb grille to allow more airflow. I regret not doing this myself, although airflow is still good regardless.

Have you considered adding a rear external rad and a slim top rad?


----------



## Stoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> For the rear radiator, I would suggest cutting a round hole in the honeycomb grille to allow more airflow. I regret not doing this myself, although airflow is still good regardless.
> 
> Have you considered adding a rear external rad and a slim top rad?


The rear rad will indeed have a cutout. I am going to seal the top entirely as there are real issues with flow back of heated air both back into the chassis and from the top vents back to the front intake. Also consider that if you were to lose 30% airflow every time you force the air to turn 90 degrees, you would have a scenario where the air coming in turns 90, enters the chassis, turns 90, enters the top chamber, turns 90 to exit.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stoff*
> 
> The rear rad will indeed have a cutout. I am going to seal the top entirely as there are real issues with flow back of heated air both back into the chassis and from the top vents back to the front intake. Also consider that if you were to lose 30% airflow every time you force the air to turn 90 degrees, you would have a scenario where the air coming in turns 90, enters the chassis, turns 90, enters the top chamber, turns 90 to exit.


You are pushing a lot of air into the case with a 420 in push/pull and that air needs to get out.


----------



## Stoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> You are pushing a lot of air into the case with a 420 in push/pull and that air needs to get out.


The idea is to keep the airflow as linear as possible from front to back. There is sufficient ventilation on the rear.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stoff*
> 
> The idea is to keep the airflow as linear as possible from front to back. There is sufficient ventilation on the rear.


Since everything that generates heat will be watercooled, linear airflow is less of an issue. The idea is to move a large amount of cool air through the rads. Adding a few fans to the top can help reduce the slight positive pressure that will otherwise build up and cause less air to move through the 420. If you are concerned with air recurculating through the top front, you can block the top front while leaving the top top and top rear slits open. It also helps to remove the 2 mesh strips that block the top slits.


----------



## Stoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Since everything that generates heat will be watercooled, linear airflow is less of an issue. The idea is to move a large amount of cool air through the rads. Adding a few fans to the top can help reduce the slight positive pressure that will otherwise build up and cause less air to move through the 420. If you are concerned with air recurculating through the top front, you can block the top front while leaving the top top and top rear slits open. It also helps to remove the 2 mesh strips that block the top slits.


I mostly agree, it's more about moving sufficient air for the perfect balance between noise and cooling. The 420 will be more than enough for even the highest TDP components. At relatively low RPM there will be sufficient airflow/cooling that mounting a top rad is unnecessary, and the negatives of such placement can be bypassed entirely. My concepts of airflow stem from many years building high end servers where the use of fluid dynamics simulations often show the benefits of linear airflow. You are probably right in that most builds in this chassis will work well as you have described and benefit from a top rad, but my objective is the best possible noise/performance ratio. I'm kinda odd that way


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stoff*
> 
> I mostly agree, it's more about moving sufficient air for the perfect balance between noise and cooling. The 420 will be more than enough for even the highest TDP components. At relatively low RPM there will be sufficient airflow/cooling that mounting a top rad is unnecessary, and the negatives of such placement can be bypassed entirely. My concepts of airflow stem from many years building high end servers where the use of fluid dynamics simulations often show the benefits of linear airflow. You are probably right in that most builds in this chassis will work well as you have described and benefit from a top rad, but my objective is the best possible noise/performance ratio. I'm kinda odd that way


Cool, can't wait to see how your temps under sustained load fare against my ******* build with airflow tested using a cigarette.

How many pumps are you running? I find that a single D5 at max speed is audible over fans when they are running under 900rpm, so I opted for 2 D5 at 60% PWM.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Since everything that generates heat will be watercooled, linear airflow is less of an issue. The idea is to move a large amount of cool air through the rads. Adding a few fans to the top can help reduce the slight positive pressure that will otherwise build up and cause less air to move through the 420. If you are concerned with air recurculating through the top front, you can block the top front while leaving the top top and top rear slits open. It also helps to remove the 2 mesh strips that block the top slits.


Everything is air cooled. The water only move the heat from component to radiator where it goes into the air.


----------



## Stoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Cool, can't wait to see how your temps under sustained load fare against my ******* build with airflow tested using a cigarette.
> 
> How many pumps are you running? I find that a single D5 at max speed is audible over fans when they are running under 900rpm, so I opted for 2 D5 at 60% PWM.


I currently have 1 D5 but have several spare so can add another. Being in South Africa means I have to wait an eternity for parts to arrive so the build is going slowly. I am delighted to find someone else that uses cigarettes in the quest for airflow testing!!!


----------



## cmoney408

heres a pick of the modmymods top panel for $100 including shipping. i like it. i ordered their front panel as well. hopefully it ships this year.


----------



## RyanBRZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmoney408*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> heres a pick of the modmymods top panel for $100 including shipping. i like it. i ordered their front panel as well. hopefully it ships this year.


Looks great! Ordered one last week, he's expecting them to ship out and if December. Which leds are you using around the front panel? Or is that light shining through from inside. Are you doing the washer mod?


----------



## cmoney408

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanBRZ*
> 
> Looks great! Ordered one last week, he's expecting them to ship out and if December. Which leds are you using around the front panel? Or is that light shining through from inside. Are you doing the washer mod?


the panteks combo kit: Phanteks PH-LEDKT_COMBO: RGB LED Strip Combo Set

comes with 2 strips and the needed adapter to work with asus aura connections. i have a single strip running down the center of the front panel. thats the light that is bleeding out of the sides of the front panel. i think it will look even cooler with their front panel since the cut outs are there. i am not doing the washer mod (to bring the front panel out a bit).


----------



## RyanBRZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmoney408*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RyanBRZ*
> 
> Looks great! Ordered one last week, he's expecting them to ship out and if December. Which leds are you using around the front panel? Or is that light shining through from inside. Are you doing the washer mod?
> 
> 
> 
> the panteks combo kit: Phanteks PH-LEDKT_COMBO: RGB LED Strip Combo Set
> 
> comes with 2 strips and the needed adapter to work with asus aura connections. i have a single strip running down the center of the front panel. thats the light that is bleeding out of the sides of the front panel. i think it will look even cooler with their front panel since the cut outs are there. i am not doing the washer mod (to bring the front panel out a bit).
Click to expand...

Yeah I'm buying that light kit for my new build. Doing a full custom loop, ordering the top from modmymods but doing the washer mod for the front to help airflow for the front radiator. Will be using asus maximus hero x mobo


----------



## cmoney408

post photos when your done!

this is my latest build. "completed" earlier this year. i say "completed" because is it ever really done?

phanteks evolv TG
asus maxumus IX Formula
7700k (delid)
h100i
1080ti with evga water cooler
32gb g skill rgb ram (syncs with asus aura)
960 nvme evo - 500gb
950 evo - 500gb - (2) in raid 0
950 pro - 500gb
hx850i
noctua a12x15 fans (6)

so far so good. i have an extra evga water cooler, just waiting on a deal for another reference 1080ti. then my front panel. maybe another 960 evo for raid. and then i think i will stop....

i have thought about custom loops. i just dont want the maintenance. but who knows. my mind might change.


----------



## RyanBRZ

Looking forward to the custom loop. Went with petg tubing for it. Waiting on Barrow fittings and rads to get here from china. Mobo, GPU, SSD and other parts come in on Saturday. Hopefully can start the build next weekend.

Heres parts I have so far:
Intel 8700K CPU
Trident Z RGB 3000 mhz memory
EVGA 750W G3 psu
Swiftech D5 PWM pump
XSPC D5 Photon 170 V2 res
Phanteks CPU block with RGB
EVGA Powerlink
Corsair K70 keyboard with cherry mx browns
Corsair Sabre mouse -- likely returning for something else
Barrow PETG tubing

On the way:
Asus Maximus Hero X mobo
EVGA 1080 Superclock GPU
Phanteks GPU waterblock with RGB
Samsung 960 EVO M.2 SSD
5 x Phanteks PH-F120MP radiator fans


----------



## nycgtr

Anyone here mount their res outside of standard position and noticed any improvements in airflow from the front.


----------



## aberrero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Anyone here mount their res outside of standard position and noticed any improvements in airflow from the front.


Never tested the other way around, but I like how mine is, with a short res mounted horizontally.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aberrero*
> 
> Never tested the other way around, but I like how mine is, with a short res mounted horizontally.


Well I am about to dual loop mine lol. Was thinking to mount both reservoirs above the psu shroud to not cover the front area. That front airflow is weak enough as is.


----------



## cmoney408

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Well I am about to dual loop mine lol. Was thinking to mount both reservoirs above the psu shroud to not cover the front area. That front airflow is weak enough as is.


would your gpu clear? looks pretty tight.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanBRZ*
> 
> Looking forward to the custom loop. Went with petg tubing for it. Waiting on Barrow fittings and rads to get here from china. Mobo, GPU, SSD and other parts come in on Saturday. Hopefully can start the build next weekend.
> 
> Heres parts I have so far:
> Phanteks CPU block with RGB


its gonna be a nice build. when building out mine i did contemplate a custom loop. i probably built it out on ekwb site at least 3 or 4 times. I also put those phanteks RGB water blocks in my cart like 3 or 4 times. at one point i think the 1080 version hit $100 and i was so close to buying them.

out of curiosity, why not go with a 1080ti?


----------



## RyanBRZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmoney408*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Well I am about to dual loop mine lol. Was thinking to mount both reservoirs above the psu shroud to not cover the front area. That front airflow is weak enough as is.
> 
> 
> 
> would your gpu clear? looks pretty tight.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RyanBRZ*
> 
> Looking forward to the custom loop. Went with petg tubing for it. Waiting on Barrow fittings and rads to get here from china. Mobo, GPU, SSD and other parts come in on Saturday. Hopefully can start the build next weekend.
> 
> Heres parts I have so far:
> Phanteks CPU block with RGB
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> its gonna be a nice build. when building out mine i did contemplate a custom loop. i probably built it out on ekwb site at least 3 or 4 times. I also put those phanteks RGB water blocks in my cart like 3 or 4 times. at one point i think the 1080 version hit $100 and i was so close to buying them.
> 
> out of curiosity, why not go with a 1080ti?
Click to expand...

Yeah, both the cpu and gpu blocks are phanteks , black frame clear top with RGB, PH-C350I_BK C350I and PH-GB1080FE_CBKLD_01 respectively.

I didn't think the cost of a Ti was worth it for me, I'm not much of a PC gamer, I'm literally building this for fun and because my existing build just hit the 10 year mark so figured it was a good time. The EVGA 1080 Superclock, overclocked, will be plenty for CS 1.6/source and COD WW2.

I too started with a cart full of all parts from EK but then decided to go a different route. All fittings/radiators/tubing are Barrow, XSPC Photon V2 res IMO is much nicer than the EK equivalent since XSPC's is made of thick glass--it has a really nice feel/build quality. I spent hours reading/learning and with guidance from other forum members and was able to pick out all of my stuff. Ended up spending $230 for all fittings/radiators/tubing, about $150 for res/pump. Between that and the blocks my water loop was a little over $600, which at the end of the day is $500 since I would have spent ~$100 on an air cooler had I gone air.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmoney408*
> 
> would your gpu clear? looks pretty tight.
> its gonna be a nice build. when building out mine i did contemplate a custom loop. i probably built it out on ekwb site at least 3 or 4 times. I also put those phanteks RGB water blocks in my cart like 3 or 4 times. at one point i think the 1080 version hit $100 and i was so close to buying them.
> 
> out of curiosity, why not go with a 1080ti?


If i mount the reservoirs in the front the 1080ti posideon would still clear. Since it's 2.5 slow it also clears if I mount the reservoirs on the midplate in the case.


----------



## MkaiL

I need some advice from you guys. I've ordered all my watercooling parts except for the radiators.
Originally I planned for a hwlabs gts 360 up top and a gtx 280 in the front. Now that I am actually ordering the parts, I've measured everything to make sure it fits. Turns out the gtx 280 would give me some problems. It's too wide, and I don't want to cut the case to make it fit. So I changed my plans to a gtx 240. However after measuring everything, turns out this one also doesn't fit because my gpu is too long (evga 1080ti ftw3), leaving me no room for the reservoir so I have to get a slim rad in the front.

Here are my options:
- Go for the hwlabs gts 360 and gts 240?
Would this be enough? Shouldn't be a problem now but what if I decide to get a second 1080ti?
> also watercooled: 6700k and vrm's from my asus formula mobo (CPU and GPU OC'ed). Both front and top panel are modded though which should help with temps.

- I prefer not to mix two brands for the radiators,
but maybe I could get the hwlabs gts 360 and bitspower leviathan slim 280? They look very similar (technically both hwlabs rads) so that might work? The Bitspower rad doesn't seem as wide as the hwlabs and should fit without cutting the case? Would this give me the option to add a second gpu in the future?

- Cut the psu shroud
- Get a different brand?

Thanks in advance


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MkaiL*
> 
> I need some advice from you guys. I've ordered all my watercooling parts except for the radiators.
> Originally I planned for a hwlabs gts 360 up top and a gtx 280 in the front. Now that I am actually ordering the parts, I've measured everything to make sure it fits. Turns out the gtx 280 would give me some problems. It's too wide, and I don't want to cut the case to make it fit. So I changed my plans to a gtx 240. However after measuring everything, turns out this one also doesn't fit because my gpu is too long (evga 1080ti ftw3), leaving me no room for the reservoir so I have to get a slim rad in the front.
> 
> Here are my options:
> - Go for the hwlabs gts 360 and gts 240?
> Would this be enough? Shouldn't be a problem now but what if I decide to get a second 1080ti?
> > also watercooled: 6700k and vrm's from my asus formula mobo (CPU and GPU OC'ed). Both front and top panel are modded though which should help with temps.
> 
> - I prefer not to mix two brands for the radiators,
> but maybe I could get the hwlabs gts 360 and bitspower leviathan slim 280? They look very similar (technically both hwlabs rads) so that might work? The Bitspower rad doesn't seem as wide as the hwlabs and should fit without cutting the case? Would this give me the option to add a second gpu in the future?
> 
> - Cut the psu shroud
> - Get a different brand?
> 
> Thanks in advance


How is your GPU too long? I have a full length card with a 54mm Nemesis GTR in push/pull and I still have several inches to spare.


----------



## MkaiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> How is your GPU too long? I have a full length card with a 54mm Nemesis GTR in push/pull and I still have several inches to spare.


Because my res wil be sitting between the gpu and rad. On top of that the ftw3 is a triple fan card, when installed it even passes the rubber grommets on the side.

I have about 130mm between the gpu (measured from the pcb, not cooler) and front of the case. The pump/res takes about 90mm (including mounting) leaving me with 40mm for the rad. I need some wiggle room to mount the res so a slim rad (30mm) would be ideal.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MkaiL*
> 
> Because my res wil be sitting between the gpu and rad. On top of that the ftw3 is a triple fan card, when installed it even passes the rubber grommets on the side.
> 
> I have about 130mm between the gpu (measured from the pcb, not cooler) and front of the case. The pump/res takes about 90mm (including mounting) leaving me with 40mm for the rad. I need some wiggle room to mount the res so a slim rad (30mm) would be ideal.


Yes, but when you put the block on you will be removing the fans from the GPU. You should have plenty of room for a 240 GTS up front along with the rest.


----------



## MkaiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Yes, but when you put the block on you will be removing the fans from the GPU. You should have plenty of room for a 240 GTS up front along with the rest.


I know that the waterblock is shorter than the heatsink, that's why I measured from the pcb of the card and not the cooler on it.
Yes, slim rads like the 240 gts will fit. I only said the gtx, which is 54mm, doesn't fit with my gpu and reservoir.

My question about the 240 gts (+360gts) is if 2 slim rads will be enough to cool a 6700k, 1080ti (with sli in the future) (both OC'ed) and mobo vrm's? I wanted a slim 280 up front for better performance but if I go for hwlabs, I would have to cut the case (psu shroud) which I would prefer not to.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MkaiL*
> 
> I know that the waterblock is shorter than the heatsink, that's why I measured from the pcb of the card and not the cooler on it.
> Yes, slim rads like the 240 gts will fit. I only said the gtx, which is 54mm, doesn't fit with my gpu and reservoir.
> 
> My question about the 240 gts (+360gts) is if 2 slim rads will be enough to cool a 6700k, 1080ti (with sli in the future) (both OC'ed) and mobo vrm's? I wanted a slim 280 up front for better performance but if I go for hwlabs, I would have to cut the case (psu shroud) which I would prefer not to.


The 240+360 will be more than enough for the single GPU setup, and theoretically should be fine with the added GPU. But the 280 certainly gives you some wiggle room and would allow for lower fan speeds. Given that it is a small cut that is simple to do, you may want to really consider going for it with the 280.


----------



## MkaiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The 240+360 will be more than enough for the single GPU setup, and theoretically should be fine with the added GPu. But the 280 certainly givesbyou some wiggle room and would allow for lower fan speeds. Given that it is a small cut that is simple to do, you may want to really consider going for it with the 280.


Thanks for your help, really appreciate it.
What about the performance of bitspower leviathan slim rads? The leviathan 280 fits without cutting and looks similar to the gts line. Might not match the 280gts' performance but should beat the 240gts?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

EKWB PE280 and CE280 will also fit without cutting. Just don't get the SE model.


----------



## MkaiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> EKWB PE280 and CE280 will also fit without cutting. Just don't get the SE model.


They would fit the case, but not with my components as I explained before. With the gpu and res, I have about 40mm left in the front to mount a rad (CE is 45mm). I think I'm going to get the gts 280 and cut the tabs on the psu shroud to make it fit. Thank you both for the help. Other suggestions are always welcome


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MkaiL*
> 
> Thanks for your help, really appreciate it.
> What about the performance of bitspower leviathan slim rads? The leviathan 280 fits without cutting and looks similar to the gts line. Might not match the 280gts' performance but should beat the 240gts?


I haven't tested a Leviathon and really can't find any info that I consider reliable, so I can't weigh in on that. You could go with an HWL L-Series 280 which is standard width - http://www.performance-pcs.com/black-ice-nemesis-l-series-280-stealth-radiator.html . The L-Series perform just a touch down from the GTS.


----------



## MkaiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I haven't tested a Leviathon and really can't find any info that I consider reliable, so I can't weigh in on that. You could go with an HWL L-Series 280 which is standard width - http://www.performance-pcs.com/black-ice-nemesis-l-series-280-stealth-radiator.html . The L-Series perform just a touch down from the GTS.


The hwl L-series are not available here in Europe. The Bitspower leviathan are actually just rebranded hwlabs L-series.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MkaiL*
> 
> The hwl L-series are not available here in Europe. The Bitspower leviathan are actually just rebranded hwlabs L-series.


Hi there

Not sure where are you located but here are available these L series

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Black-Ice-NEMESIS-LS280-OEM-Builder-Edition-Black_65388.html

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MkaiL*
> 
> The hwl L-series are not available here in Europe. The Bitspower leviathan are actually just rebranded hwlabs L-series.


Well, that's an easy one. If it's the same rad with better availability, go for it.


----------



## szeater

Did some updates to my rig this last week. Details are here:

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/7h9a2z/build_update_orange_into_teal_and_some_other_stuff/%5B/URL



Just a question to everyone as well, do you think I'd get a whole lot more performance by going from the Magicool Slim G2s to HWLabs 360 GTS? I'd have to reconsider how the res is connected to the front rad and some other stuff, but I don't like that my fans have to go to 50-60% to keep the coolant temps within 12 degrees of ambient in certain scenarios.


----------



## nycgtr

Lol. Work in progress


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> 
> 
> Lol. Work in progress


Can you fit 3 fans on the top rad?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Can you fit 3 fans on the top rad?


fans are on top of the rad. i modded the top. my lid is cut so doesn't really impede airflow.

Edit I see what you mean. your asking if I can do push pull. I could only add 2 fans under the rad. I moved my zenith to this case to make room for the rampage. Kinda forgot how much it sucks to cram stuff in here lol. None the less my dual loop is complete. I ran outta petg so I got 2 50mm extender fittings pulling duty sigh. Gotta wait till thursday when it gets delivered. I have so many random ass pieces yet none are long enough


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> fans are on top of the rad. i modded the top. my lid is cut so doesn't really impede airflow.
> 
> Edit I see what you mean. your asking if I can do push pull. I could only add 2 fans under the rad. I moved my zenith to this case to make room for the rampage. Kinda forgot how much it sucks to cram stuff in here lol. None the less my dual loop is complete. I ran outta petg so I got 2 50mm extender fittings pulling duty sigh. Gotta wait till thursday when it gets delivered. I have so many random ass pieces yet none are long enough


Smart man getting the monoblock. I had to find the smallest 90 degree fittings to fit between my 280mm rads and VRM waterblock.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Smart man getting the monoblock. I had to find the smallest 90 degree fittings to fit between my 280mm rads and VRM waterblock.


I plan on fitting the heatkiller vrm block when it comes out into this with the their cpu block. I used a combination of fittings in the corner that should line up with their vrm block. I am literally 1-2mm apart from blocking in assorted things. I couldn't even get the dimm2 card in with the tubing in the way lol. Single loop in this case is a whole lot easier. I was originally gonna do a serial pump/res to pump/res figured it work better for temps. Then I thought about aesthetics vs work load. I don't have any loads that would tax out my cpu and gpu at the same time. I either have heavy usage of one or the other. While a huge single loop would probably be better temps wise, I think the temp difference doesn't warrant the aesthetics give up. I've ran sli watercooled in this case and it was okay but not great, not something I'd do again. 360 per component should be enough for my needs temp wise in this case.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Smart man getting the monoblock. I had to find the smallest 90 degree fittings to fit between my 280mm rads and VRM waterblock.


My Asus Formula, 280mm GTS and Evolv know your pain.


----------



## nycgtr

Almost there but she lives


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there but she lives


Temps?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Temps?


Need to redo the cpu oc, somehow feel apart lol. GPU temp oced @2100 I am getting about 49-53c on load. The built in block is not as good as say a dedicated waterblock and it does run about 4-5c hotter. This card hooked up to a 480 and a 360 in a primo in it's own loop was hitting about 45-47c on load oced @ 2100. Ambient is about 26.5c. Water temps sit around 28-29 for both loops.

Didn't like the lighting need to figure it out.


----------



## paskowitz

Love the tubing and the colors, but those GPU cables could use some training (maybe more combs).

I do think the Poseidon looks great though. Kinda makes me wish Asus would do a custom waterblock card like they did the with the Ares.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Love the tubing and the colors, but those GPU cables could use some training (maybe more combs).
> 
> I do think the Poseidon looks great though. Kinda makes me wish Asus would do a custom waterblock card like they did the with the Ares.


Yea I got more combs coming in the mail. I will train them just their final position isn't set yet. The problem is the amount of room I have at the bottom is very limited. I got 2 drains with cables under it and above it. I haven't finished all my wiring of accessories in the back. At that time I will be able to pull the cables in some more. It's a wip but almost there.

The amount of crap to pull this off was excessive compared to my previous builds lol.


----------



## TSXmike

Heres mine.


----------



## nycgtr

Well I did some temp testing. Ambient temp of 27c. Loaded up on the monoblock I am getting about 38c on water temp and about the same on the OCed ti. The waterblock on the posideon is meh, I know this as I have a watercooled titan xp and it def runs cooler at the same clock about 8c cooler almost. I am getting a 56-57 max temp on the gpu after a 2 hrs pegged at 95-99% usage. The cpu temp is pretty much where it was before when I had it in the primo with a 480 gts granted a couple degrees hotter. The monoblock is a crap block for TR so temps @ 4ghz is nothing good to begin with lol. I haven't loaded both at the same time.

However, to keep the water temp arond 10-12c delta I need to have the fans top and front running at around 1300-1400 rpm.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Well I did some temp testing. Ambient temp of 27c. Loaded up on the monoblock I am getting about 38c on water temp and about the same on the OCed ti. The waterblock on the posideon is meh, I know this as I have a watercooled titan xp and it def runs cooler at the same clock about 8c cooler almost. I am getting a 56-57 max temp on the gpu after a 2 hrs pegged at 95-99% usage. The cpu temp is pretty much where it was before when I had it in the primo with a 480 gts granted a couple degrees hotter. The monoblock is a crap block for TR so temps @ 4ghz is nothing good to begin with lol. I haven't loaded both at the same time.
> 
> However, to keep the water temp arond 10-12c delta I need to have the fans top and front running at around 1300-1400 rpm.


Are both radiators intake? Did you tape off the top chamber?


----------



## glegz

Mine: 
More here


http://imgur.com/doDBI


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> Are both radiators intake? Did you tape off the top chamber?


Front and rear are intake top is exhaust. I don't need to tape the top. My fans are right under a modded top that's the full length of the top


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TSXmike*
> 
> Heres mine.


Nicely done, really clean looking build. I've been tempted to go parallel in the same manner just for that reason.

Any thought about trying the copper colored Monsoon accent disks (http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors/monsoon-standard-rotary-color-accent-disks-gold.html) on your GPU fittings? They call them gold, but they tend to be coppery in color. Might give a nice play off the copper in the blocks.


----------



## strokin3

What are all your opinions on the ASUS MAXIMUS X FORMULA motherboard (z370)? I'm about to pick up an i7-8700k so i need to pick a z370 board. Does the attached waterblock do more harm than good? I am planning on using hard tubing.

Also, as suggested by multiple people, I will be buying all my cooling parts separately instead of using the EKWB PE kit. Are the XSPC photon / heatkiller both better than the EK REVO D5 ? Are the GTS radiators still the best?

Thanks again team!


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> What are all your opinions on the ASUS MAXIMUS X FORMULA motherboard (z370)? I'm about to pick up an i7-8700k so i need to pick a z370 board. Does the attached waterblock do more harm than good? I am planning on using hard tubing.
> 
> Also, as suggested by multiple people, I will be buying all my cooling parts separately instead of using the EKWB PE kit. Are the XSPC photon / heatkiller both better than the EK REVO D5 ? Are the GTS radiators still the best?
> 
> Thanks again team!


I have the IX Formula which uses the same VRM block. It is difficult to fit behind a 140mm wide radiator. I made it work with a EKWB CE280 and a Koolance slim 90 degree fitting, but I only have 1mm clearance between the fitting and the radiator. A 140mm wide GTS would be too wide, but you could use a 120mm wide GTS, like a 360. My suggestion would be to use soft tubing in places that won't be visible.


----------



## TSXmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Nicely done, really clean looking build. I've been tempted to go parallel in the same manner just for that reason.
> 
> Any thought about trying the copper colored Monsoon accent disks (http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors/monsoon-standard-rotary-color-accent-disks-gold.html) on your GPU fittings? They call them gold, but they tend to be coppery in color. Might give a nice play off the copper in the blocks.


I actually have been really tossing that idea around lately.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> What are all your opinions on the ASUS MAXIMUS X FORMULA motherboard (z370)? I'm about to pick up an i7-8700k so i need to pick a z370 board. Does the attached waterblock do more harm than good? I am planning on using hard tubing.
> 
> Also, as suggested by multiple people, I will be buying all my cooling parts separately instead of using the EKWB PE kit. Are the XSPC photon / heatkiller both better than the EK REVO D5 ? Are the GTS radiators still the best?
> 
> Thanks again team!


Excellent board and not difficult to plumb up the VRM block provided you use a 360mm radiator up the top







If you do go with Maximus X Formula make sure you remove the EK badge on the VRM block as it is too close the G1/4 fitting hole and wont allow a fitting to sit flush.


Despite how it looks you can remove the memory without disassembling the loop.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> What are all your opinions on the ASUS MAXIMUS X FORMULA motherboard (z370)? I'm about to pick up an i7-8700k so i need to pick a z370 board. Does the attached waterblock do more harm than good? I am planning on using hard tubing.
> 
> Also, as suggested by multiple people, I will be buying all my cooling parts separately instead of using the EKWB PE kit. Are the XSPC photon / heatkiller both better than the EK REVO D5 ? Are the GTS radiators still the best?
> 
> Thanks again team!


The Photon and Heatkiller are significantly nicer than the Revo, in both looks and quality. So is the Monsoon MMRS. And GTS rads tend to get the best results in the Evolv ATX (and everywhere else in terms of size/performance and airflow performance) since they do well with limited airflow.


----------



## strokin3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I have the IX Formula which uses the same VRM block. It is difficult to fit behind a 140mm wide radiator. I made it work with a EKWB CE280 and a Koolance slim 90 degree fitting, but I only have 1mm clearance between the fitting and the radiator. A 140mm wide GTS would be too wide, but you could use a 120mm wide GTS, like a 360. My suggestion would be to use soft tubing in places that won't be visible.


I've seen people fit the PE360 radiator with it. Aren't those 140mm as well? thanks for the info!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Excellent board and not difficult to plumb up the VRM block provided you use a 360mm radiator up the top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you do go with Maximus X Formula make sure you remove the EK badge on the VRM block as it is too close the G1/4 fitting hole and wont allow a fitting to sit flush.
> 
> 
> Despite how it looks you can remove the memory without disassembling the loop.


Your build looks sick! What kind of radiators are you using? And you're using the 360 PE kit right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Photon and Heatkiller are significantly nicer than the Revo, in both looks and quality. So is the Monsoon MMRS. And GTS rads tend to get the best results in the Evolv ATX (and everywhere else in terms of size/performance and airflow performance) since they do well with limited airflow.


Thanks for the tips. Where do you guys usually purchase these parts? I'd like multiple sites if possible. Thank you!


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> I've seen people fit the PE360 radiator with it. Aren't those 140mm as well? thanks for the info!
> Your build looks sick! What kind of radiators are you using? And you're using the 360 PE kit right?
> Thanks for the tips. Where do you guys usually purchase these parts? I'd like multiple sites if possible. Thank you!


360mm rads are 120mm wide: 3×120. 280mm rads are 140mm wide: 2x140.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> I've seen people fit the PE360 radiator with it. Aren't those 140mm as well? thanks for the info!
> Your build looks sick! What kind of radiators are you using? And you're using the 360 PE kit right?
> Thanks for the tips. Where do you guys usually purchase these parts? I'd like multiple sites if possible. Thank you!


Not using PE-360 Kit, but using PE-360 up the top and a PE-240 in the front







Posted those pictures to show you on the VRM block to the right that there is an EK badge there to remove (which I have) that sits proud from the block, removing this exposes another EK badge underneath that sits flush so it is not a problem.


----------



## nycgtr

Done messing with this case. Too many cuts to make this work but anyways. Matte black metallic is the color.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Done messing with this case. Too many cuts to make this work but anyways. Matte black metallic is the color.


What RGB strip are you using?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> What RGB strip are you using?


It's the phanteks ones.


----------



## bl1tzk1213g

Does anybody have a cutout template for the front and top? I'd like to be able to print it on couple of regular size bond papers and trace them on before I dremel.


----------



## cmoney408

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Done messing with this case. Too many cuts to make this work but anyways. Matte black metallic is the color.


i see you have the modmymods top panel. i just got it myself. he also has a matching front panel. i ordered it as well. but i think hes waiting for more orders before making them.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmoney408*
> 
> i see you have the modmymods top panel. i just got it myself. he also has a matching front panel. i ordered it as well. but i think hes waiting for more orders before making them.


They were nice enough to send me the sample of the top. The front would match nicely but with my extended front panel, I see currently 0 difference with having a front panel on vs none at all.


----------



## paskowitz

Yeah, extended front panel vs no panel is like 1c water temp or ~100-150rpm extra. NBD. IMO, I'm not a huge fan of the MMM front panel aesthetics. The top looks like it was meant to be there... not so much on the front.


----------



## B3MMi

I don't like the front that much either. They could/should redesign it.


----------



## cmoney408

yeah, its def not my first choice. more so my only choice.

i am doing it for 1, the cooling (spacers are cool, but too basic) . and 2 i have an RGB strip down the front/center. so i think it will look pretty cool seeing the light come through the grills, and not just the front side gaps.

on top of that, i like the look of the top piece, how you can see my noctua fans through the top. i think it will look pretty cool seeing the fans through the front as well!

if i could re design it, i would probably make the vents about 80% as tall as they are now. the highest point of the grill should not go beyond the notch to the side of it. the fact that it does, makes it almost look crooked.

other then that. i am keeping my order active. i cant wait to get it!


----------



## RyanBRZ

Is the front washer mod worth doing? I bought the MMM replacement top and am either going 100% stock or washer mod on the front. Prefer to leave it stock but if it helps ill washer it up


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanBRZ*
> 
> Is the front washer mod worth doing? I bought the MMM replacement top and am either going 100% stock or washer mod on the front. Prefer to leave it stock but if it helps ill washer it up


Been discussed many times in the thread yes. Also you can hardly tell when its like 5-6mm and that's all you really need


----------



## Stoff

This must be my slowest build ever. Designed internal panels and used paper to verify the fit before having made out of acrylic. Added a 140 slim rad to the rear. Had wanted to push/pull on all fans but had to lose the bottom internal fan because of the length of the gpu.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stoff*
> 
> 
> 
> This must be my slowest build ever. Designed internal panels and used paper to verify the fit before having made out of acrylic. Added a 140 slim rad to the rear. Had wanted to push/pull on all fans but had to lose the bottom internal fan because of the length of the gpu.


Your gonna choke the hell out of the front with that layout. Move the rad to the top, mod the top vent, and place the reservoir in the front. Unless you plan on doing intake from the top.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Your gonna choke the hell out of the front with that layout. Move the rad to the top, mod the top vent, and place the reservoir in the front. Unless you plan on doing intake from the top.


And if you are going to try to do top intake, a modded top is necessary.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stoff*
> 
> 
> 
> This must be my slowest build ever. Designed internal panels and used paper to verify the fit before having made out of acrylic. Added a 140 slim rad to the rear. Had wanted to push/pull on all fans but had to lose the bottom internal fan because of the length of the gpu.


Water cooling in an Evolv ATX pretty much has one optimal layout, and this is it. Cut top, extended front, top mount mod, 2x 360x30mm rads, slim 140 intake and front rad mounted res. Pretty much every other config is going to have aesthetic, spacing or performance deficits.

Speaking from personal experience (p/p HWL GTR), thick rads aren't meant for this case. Anything that hinders air getting in and out as efficiently as possible, should be reconsidered.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*


----------



## Stoff

Having used fluid dynamics simulations extensively on the various options, I have to disagree. There is a compelling argument to be made for a linear air flow and sealing the top completely. With three 140 mm fans in the front and no gaps for blow back, the only impedence to airflow is the front panel. I will post pics soon of my front panel mod which involve a waterjet cutout and a temepred glass adittional panel.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stoff*
> 
> Having used fluid dynamics simulations extensively on the various options, I have to disagree. There is a compelling argument to be made for a linear air flow and sealing the top completely. With three 140 mm fans in the front and no gaps for blow back, the only impedence to airflow is the front panel. I will post pics soon of my front panel mod which involve a waterjet cutout and a temepred glass adittional panel.


I should have added, "within the average builder's reach". Most people don't have access to a water jet. Ordering a top panel from MMM, the front panel mod, and even the top rad placement mod are doable by your average builder. I would also add that opening up the front panel does noticeably increase noise under load.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stoff*
> 
> Having used fluid dynamics simulations extensively on the various options, I have to disagree. There is a compelling argument to be made for a linear air flow and sealing the top completely. With three 140 mm fans in the front and no gaps for blow back, the only impedence to airflow is the front panel. I will post pics soon of my front panel mod which involve a waterjet cutout and a temepred glass adittional panel.


Your not the first one to put a thick rad in the front and think it will turn out well. I've done it as well with this case. I am not saying your going to make a hotbox but it's not going to be optimal. This case is already not optimal for watercooling. The top needs a cut to improve air the front doesn't. If your going to cut something cut the top and extend the front. Put your rad on top. If you dont cut the top the amount of hot air that builds up in this case with a rad in the front is not a fun situation. If you feel like playing trail and error when other people have done the same thing as you then realized it was flawed go ahead.

The biggest problem with this case is getting the hot air out. If you can have as little hot air as possible in this case the better. Rather than introducing hot air thru your intake your better off leaving as exhaust. This has nothing to do with fluid dynamics. The reason this case is crappy for watercooling is the hot air buildup, not rad support etc.


----------



## Stoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Your not the first one to put a thick rad in the front and think it will turn out well. I've done it as well with this case. I am not saying your going to make a hotbox but it's not going to be optimal. This case is already not optimal for watercooling. The top needs a cut to improve air the front doesn't. If your going to cut something cut the top and extend the front. Put your rad on top. If you dont cut the top the amount of hot air that builds up in this case with a rad in the front is not a fun situation. If you feel like playing trail and error when other people have done the same thing as you then realized it was flawed go ahead.


There is no trial and error here. I have been planning cooling solutions for high end servers for many years. The front rad is optimal for low rpm fans (600rpm) in push-pull . The waterjet cutout cost me $35 and the tempered glass panel cost $28. My design goal is for optimal cooling at very low rpm and wherever possible keeping the great aesthetics of the original. Everytime air is forced to turn 90 degrees you lose nearly 30% of your airflow.


----------



## cmoney408

on the plus side, you'll be able to use the inside of the case to bake cakes.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stoff*
> 
> There is no trial and error here. I have been planning cooling solutions for high end servers for many years. The front rad is optimal for low rpm fans (600rpm) in push-pull . The waterjet cutout cost me $35 and the tempered glass panel cost $28. My design goal is for optimal cooling at very low rpm and wherever possible keeping the great aesthetics of the original. Everytime air is forced to turn 90 degrees you lose nearly 30% of your airflow.


You can plan all you like but your being told based off user experience in this specific case (who believe it or not there are people on the internet who might know the same or better than you do). Your not doing anything new in this case that hasn't been done MANY Times over. Also drop the act of knowing better than those who've DONE THE EXACT same thing as you then changed it after. Your not doing anything new or anything better than what's been done many many many many times.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanBRZ*
> 
> Is the front washer mod worth doing? I bought the MMM replacement top and am either going 100% stock or washer mod on the front. Prefer to leave it stock but if it helps ill washer it up


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stoff*
> 
> Having used fluid dynamics simulations extensively on the various options, I have to disagree. There is a compelling argument to be made for a linear air flow and sealing the top completely. With three 140 mm fans in the front and no gaps for blow back, the only impedence to airflow is the front panel. I will post pics soon of my front panel mod which involve a waterjet cutout and a temepred glass adittional panel.


What fluid dynamics simulation system/software do you use? I have done a lot of airflow testings, but have no software for simulations.

I experimented with several different front spacingswith 2x 140mm front fans and found that front had to be spaced out in front of sides to really make much difference in airflow. Stock is not at all bad. Big part of reason is there is no grill mesh in the front vent strip all they way around front panel, so this space is all free airflow to filter. Grill mesh is very restictive, up to 80% restirctive.









But with 3x 140mm front fans will not fit in front without modding but cutting the front inner panel flush with bottom of front I/O panel ..

I agree, but only if both CPU and GPU are in the loop .. and then a single 360mm radiator might not be enough cooling area.
Linear airflow doesn't have the turbulence problems that come up when trying to turn airflow direction.


----------



## Stoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> You can plan all you like but your being told based off user experience in this specific case (who believe it or not there are people on the internet who might know the same or better than you do). Your not doing anything new in this case that hasn't been done MANY Times over. Also drop the act of knowing better than those who've DONE THE EXACT same thing as you then changed it after. Your not doing anything new or anything better than what's been done many many many many times.


Lol, not my intention to come off as a smart ass. I am simply saying that I have tested the air flow, and it works extremely well. Not really interested in getting into an argument when the sims have proved identical to the end result. There are many great builds on this thread, I am not knocking any of them.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stoff*
> 
> Lol, not my intention to come off as a smart ass. I am simply saying that I have tested the air flow, and it works extremely well. Not really interested in getting into an argument when the sims have proved identical to the end result. There are many great builds on this thread, I am not knocking any of them.


Maybe your sims are right and maybe not. It wouldn't be the first time I've seen sims not do what they projected when put into actual use. What sim software are you using? I do a lot a real time airflow testing. Don't have any sim software.


----------



## Stoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What fluid dynamics simulation system/software do you use? I have done a lot of airflow testings, but have no software for simulations.
> 
> I experimented with several different front spacingswith 2x 140mm front fans and found that front had to be spaced out in front of sides to really make much difference in airflow. Stock is not at all bad. Big part of reason is there is no grill mesh in the front vent strip all they way around front panel, so this space is all free airflow to filter. Grill mesh is very restictive, up to 80% restirctive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But with 3x 140mm front fans will not fit in front without modding but cutting the front inner panel flush with bottom of front I/O panel ..
> 
> I agree, but only if both CPU and GPU are in the loop .. and then a single 360mm radiator might not be enough cooling area.
> Linear airflow doesn't have the turbulence problems that come up when trying to turn airflow direction.
> 
> The people posting up here have lots of experience using Evolv ATX, might be worth listening to what they say and suggest.
> I've very interested in seeing how it all works out for you.


Xgen on Maya using a detailed rig. I have modded the front to allow for 3x 140mm fans with zero obstuctions between fan and radiator. The choice of front rad was based on the FPI for two fans in push-pull. The front rad is 420mm. Part of me would love to present the arguments for the choices that I have made,- it really is my passion, but it seems to annoy some. My front panel design reduces airflow impedance by 86% and I love the way it looks. I am fully aware many others will disagree.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stoff*
> 
> Xgen on Maya using a detailed rig. I have modded the front to allow for 3x 140mm fans with zero obstuctions between fan and radiator. The choice of front rad was based on the FPI for two fans in push-pull. The front rad is 420mm. Part of me would love to present the arguments for the choices that I have made,- it really is my passion, but it seems to annoy some. My front panel design reduces airflow impedance by 86% and I love the way it looks. I am fully aware many others will disagree.


Some rather expensive and complicated software there.
What radiator are you using? with fin & tubes bent 420mm there is not much room left for manifolds wth fitting ports.


----------



## Stoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Some rather expensive and complicated software there.
> What radiator are you using? with fin & tubes bent 420mm there is not much room left for manifolds wth fitting ports.


We use Maya at work so I am fortunate in that regard. The rad is EK CE420. There is no issue with the rad fittings apart from having them at the top for clean access. Being at the top just means that it is harder to flush the system.


----------



## TieT

Happy to share my new build here.
Got the case last year, but the internals needed an upgrade, so i decided to reuse the case because i still love it








It's lightly modded because i needed to make some extra clearance for the E-ATX mobo.

- Mock-up
fit this puppy in somewhere...





- Fill er up










First run


In the meantime i sold the hue+ and bought a pair of phanteks led strips that i hooked up to the aura connectors on the MB.
Don't like having to many different programs to sync something.
Also ordered some alu cablecombs from https://mnpctech.com/ and they fit great !



The back needs some more work to get the cabling cleaner.
Any tips are welcome, i'm just not going to cut any cables.



So why a poseidon card when all the rest is custom? ... well it was the only gtx1080Ti available at that time.
Every card was sold out, crazy !
On the upside, the hybrid cooler isn't actually that bad.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Need to work on how I'm mounting dual D5's in my Pro M SE


----------



## nycgtr

PSU is 1 inch too long for me to fit it into the psu shroud at the bottom.


----------



## strokin3

Alright Guys,

About to order my parts for open loop liquid cooling. Can someone please walk me through the best parts and sites to order these from?

I am also using a ASUS MAXIMUS X FORMULA (it has a VRM block so that might get in the way of some things)

For pumps im thinking:

XSPC photon / heatkiller

For Radiators im thinking:

Black Ice GTS NEMESIS x360 on top and x240 on the front

I want to go all out with this build. Are there any pumps or radiators you guys think would be better? What other parts would I need? Do I need a CPU block (i7-8700k) ?

Can someone link me the proper tubing / fittings I would need?

I want the BEST of the BEST. It's christmas and its time to blow some cash.

Also please mention the best / most reliable sites that you guys usually order these from!

PLEASE HELP GUYS! Thanks and kudos to all my fellow phanteks homies!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> Alright Guys,
> 
> About to order my parts for open loop liquid cooling. Can someone please walk me through the best parts and sites to order these from?
> 
> I am also using a ASUS MAXIMUS X FORMULA (it has a VRM block so that might get in the way of some things)
> 
> For pumps im thinking:
> 
> XSPC photon / heatkiller
> 
> For Radiators im thinking:
> 
> Black Ice GTS NEMESIS x360 on top and x240 on the front
> 
> I want to go all out with this build. Are there any pumps or radiators you guys think would be better? What other parts would I need? Do I need a CPU block (i7-8700k) ?
> 
> Can someone link me the proper tubing / fittings I would need?
> 
> I want the BEST of the BEST. It's christmas and its time to blow some cash.
> 
> Also please mention the best / most reliable sites that you guys usually order these from!
> 
> PLEASE HELP GUYS! Thanks and kudos to all my fellow phanteks homies!


In an Evolv ATX you want to use the Nemesis GTS line, as they fare far better with lower airflow.

You can add the Monsoon MMRS to the list of res/pump combos. Two 50mm tubes with a center coupler and D5 fits like a glove and even uses existing mounting holes.

Of course you need a CPU block, and a GPU block. But without knowing what GPU you are using it is impossible to make a recommendation.

On fittings and tubing, without knowing if you want to go soft, acrylic or PETG makes it impossible to comment there.


----------



## strokin3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> In an Evolv ATX you want to use the Nemesis GTS line, as they fare far better with lower airflow.
> 
> You can add the Monsoon MMRS to the list of res/pump combos. Two 50mm tubes with a center coupler and D5 fits like a glove and even uses existing mounting holes.
> 
> Of course you need a CPU block, and a GPU block. But without knowing what GPU you are using it is impossible to make a recommendation.
> 
> On fittings and tubing, without knowing if you want to go soft, acrylic or PETG makes it impossible to comment there.


-Okay so basically pick between the Monsoon MMRS and the other two i previously mentioned?

-I was under the impression that there is only one type of NEMESIS GTS?

-Which CPU block do you recommend?

-I am using a GTX 1080 but I plan on getting a 1080TI pretty soon

-What would you recommend for tubing?

Thank you so much! Merry XMAS!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> -Okay so basically pick between the Monsoon MMRS and the other two i previously mentioned?
> 
> -I was under the impression that there is only one type of NEMESIS GTS?
> 
> -Which CPU block do you recommend?
> 
> -I am using a GTX 1080 but I plan on getting a 1080TI pretty soon
> 
> -What would you recommend for tubing?
> 
> Thank you so much! Merry XMAS!


Sorry, I totally missed that you said GTS in your first post, I just saw "Nemesis x360". There are actually two GTS, try to avoid the X-Flow.

I personally really like the Phanteks blocks, the 1080 block I'm using is nicer than the EK I have for it, and the Phanteks has RGB that mates to the case. But, between Phanteks, Heatkiller, EK and XSPC, I would pick the one you like the look of and go with it. Performance and quality difference is almost non-existent. I am talking about *blocks* only with that statement. The difference between those brands in other components can be big.

I only use soft tubing, I'm not a fan of hard as I change components frequently. I use Bitspower or Monsoon fittings typically, but the XSPC and Swiftech fittings are also very well made. Every other fitting I have tried has been very disappointing by comparison. I haven't used the Barrow fittings, but I understand that they are the same fittings as Bitspower without the logo.

I buy all my components from Performance PCs since FCPU went bust. Never had any issues, and pricing is competitive. They are also very helpful if you have questions. I buy bits and pieces from Titan Rig in a pinch, also.


----------



## strokin3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> -Okay so basically pick between the Monsoon MMRS and the other two i previously mentioned?
> 
> -I was under the impression that there is only one type of NEMESIS GTS?
> 
> -Which CPU block do you recommend?
> 
> -I am using a GTX 1080 but I plan on getting a 1080TI pretty soon
> 
> -What would you recommend for tubing?
> 
> Thank you so much! Merry XMAS!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Sorry, I totally missed that you said GTS in your first post, I just saw "Nemesis x360". There are actually two GTS, try to avoid the X-Flow.
> 
> I personally really like the Phanteks blocks, the 1080 block I'm using is nicer than the EK I have for it, and the Phanteks has RGB that mates to the case. But, between Phanteks, Heatkiller, EK and XSPC, I would pick the one you like the look of and go with it. Performance and quality difference is almost non-existent. I am talking about *blocks* only with that statement. The difference between those brands in other components can be big.
> 
> I only use soft tubing, I'm not a fan of hard as I change components frequently. I use Bitspower or Monsoon fittings typically, but the XSPC and Swiftech fittings are also very well made. Every other fitting I have tried has been very disappointing by comparison. I haven't used the Barrow fittings, but I understand that they are the same fittings as Bitspower without the logo.
> 
> I buy all my components from Performance PCs since FCPU went bust. Never had any issues, and pricing is competitive. They are also very helpful if you have questions. I buy bits and pieces from Titan Rig in a pinch, also.


Which of the Res + Pumps would you recommend? Can you recommend a soft tube brand / product? And should i be doing GTS X360 on top and X240 in front? I would rather not cut / mod my case. I might buy a modded top though.


----------



## RyanBRZ

Booted up my new custom loop build last night for the first time and bios is giving me an issue with CPU_FAN readings. I have 5 radiator fans connected to the hub, the hub is connected to CPU_Fan in addition to SATA power. My motherboard is an Asus Maximus X Hero.. in order for it to allow me to boot I have to set monitoring on CPU_Fan to ignore. Can anyone help me with configuring my fan/hub so I can get readings through the PWM? All apps within Windows give me no RPM input due to the Ignore setting in BIOS.

Also, when my CPU gets load, I hear my fans spinning faster, but when my GPU gets load they do nothing, is it possible to get my fan speed to increase if either begin getting stressed, or better yet based on water temp? I am using a water sensor which is giving me readings but I dont know how to tie everything together.

Which software is good for monitoring/controlling the entire water loop?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> Alright Guys,
> 
> About to order my parts for open loop liquid cooling. Can someone please walk me through the best parts and sites to order these from?
> 
> I am also using a ASUS MAXIMUS X FORMULA (it has a VRM block so that might get in the way of some things)
> 
> For pumps im thinking:
> 
> XSPC photon / heatkiller
> 
> For Radiators im thinking:
> 
> Black Ice GTS NEMESIS x360 on top and x240 on the front
> 
> I want to go all out with this build. Are there any pumps or radiators you guys think would be better? What other parts would I need? Do I need a CPU block (i7-8700k) ?
> 
> Can someone link me the proper tubing / fittings I would need?
> 
> I want the BEST of the BEST. It's christmas and its time to blow some cash.
> 
> Also please mention the best / most reliable sites that you guys usually order these from!
> 
> PLEASE HELP GUYS! Thanks and kudos to all my fellow phanteks homies!


Personally, I really like Watercool Heatkiller products. They are a bit more expensive than say, EK, but IMO the looks, build quality and "not something everyone has in their loop" look factor are worth a couple extra dollars. Their CPU and GPU blocks are top notch. From what I have read, Phanteks is another good option. Phanteks also has better non reference card compatibility.

For a reservoir, the Heatkiller Tube has a really good rad mounting system (height adjustable). Singularity Computers is another good company, but is even more expensive. I can't speak to other brands (haven't owned them).

For rads, you've got it right. HWL GTS 360 top and 240 front is fine (U flow NOT X flow). You aren't doing SLI or HEDT so 360/240 should be plenty. I would get a good rear 140mm fan (Noctua NF-A14 iPPC 2Krpm) and use it as intake so you have positive pressure and a bit more fresh air going to your 360. The 360 rad will clear the top VRM thread... but you have to use a 90 rotary fitting.

Tubing depends on what kind of look you want. IMO it's always easiest to go with colored tubing vs colored fluid with soft tubing. If you want to change colors... just take out the old tubing, use it measure the new stuff and follow the same routes. NBD. Assuming you take that route, Primochill Advanced LRT w/SysPrep (cleaning agent) and Liquid Utopia (coolant) is pretty tried and true. That should all come in one box.

If you want to go "all out" and feel a bit adventurous, you may want to try deliding. RockitCool makes a very easy delid tool. The process is FAR safer now, than it was a couple years ago. Naturally, there is a thread here on the subject.

For sites, PerformancePCs, ModMyMods, and manufacturer's websites.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> Which of the Res + Pumps would you recommend? Can you recommend a soft tube brand / product? And should i be doing GTS X360 on top and X240 in front? I would rather not cut / mod my case. I might buy a modded top though.


To be frank, I would say the MMM modded top is pretty much "required" unless you are doing just a front radiator. I know, $80 is steep. The front extension mod is easy and essentially free.

I would say Monsoon or Watercool Heatkiller Tube with a D5. PWM if you want (not really necessary). Soft tube, see above. Make sure to choose a size that is compatible with your desired fittings.

One thing I would add, is it is probably a good idea to sell your 1080 and get the 1080 Ti ASAP... or just stick with the 1080 until Volta. Buying one GPU block, then another isn't really the best financial decision.


----------



## strokin3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Personally, I really like Watercool Heatkiller products. They are a bit more expensive than say, EK, but IMO the looks, build quality and "not something everyone has in their loop" look factor are worth a couple extra dollars. Their CPU and GPU blocks are top notch. From what I have read, Phanteks is another good option. Phanteks also has better non reference card compatibility.
> 
> For a reservoir, the Heatkiller Tube has a really good rad mounting system (height adjustable). Singularity Computers is another good company, but is even more expensive. I can't speak to other brands (haven't owned them).
> 
> For rads, you've got it right. HWL GTS 360 top and 240 front is fine (U flow NOT X flow). You aren't doing SLI or HEDT so 360/240 should be plenty. I would get a good rear 140mm fan (Noctua NF-A14 iPPC 2Krpm) and use it as intake so you have positive pressure and a bit more fresh air going to your 360. The 360 rad will clear the top VRM thread... but you have to use a 90 rotary fitting.
> 
> Tubing depends on what kind of look you want. IMO it's always easiest to go with colored tubing vs colored fluid with soft tubing. If you want to change colors... just take out the old tubing, use it measure the new stuff and follow the same routes. NBD. Assuming you take that route, Primochill Advanced LRT w/SysPrep (cleaning agent) and Liquid Utopia (coolant) is pretty tried and true. That should all come in one box.
> 
> If you want to go "all out" and feel a bit adventurous, you may want to try deliding. RockitCool makes a very easy delid tool. The process is FAR safer now, than it was a couple years ago. Naturally, there is a thread here on the subject.
> 
> For sites, PerformancePCs, ModMyMods, and manufacturer's websites.
> To be frank, I would say the MMM modded top is pretty much "required" unless you are doing just a front radiator. I know, $80 is steep. The front extension mod is easy and essentially free.
> 
> I would say Monsoon or Watercool Heatkiller Tube with a D5. PWM if you want (not really necessary). Soft tube, see above. Make sure to choose a size that is compatible with your desired fittings.
> 
> One thing I would add, is it is probably a good idea to sell your 1080 and get the 1080 Ti ASAP... or just stick with the 1080 until Volta. Buying one GPU block, then another isn't really the best financial decision.


I see several options for the heatkiller CPU waterblocks. Which one would you pick?

Should I be getting this heatkiller tube and does it come with the pump? :
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30205

Also I really want to get a MMM case top but they just started pre-orders and the previous one hasnt even shipped out yet. It seems like it would take forever. Are there any other options?

Thanks again for taking the time to help me!


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> I see several options for the heatkiller CPU waterblocks. Which one would you pick?
> 
> Should I be getting this heatkiller tube and does it come with the pump? :
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30205
> 
> Also I really want to get a MMM case top but they just started pre-orders and the previous one hasnt even shipped out yet. It seems like it would take forever. Are there any other options?
> 
> Thanks again for taking the time to help me!


The original top should hold you over while you wait.

As paskowitz mentioned, GPU blocks are expensive. If you are sticking with a 1080, try to get a used block for a low price with the intention of selling it for the same price when you get a 1080ti.


----------



## nycgtr

There's no reason to be buying a block for a 1080 right now imo unless the block is like 50 bucks. Unless you plan on keeping it for another yr or so. An 18 month old card no way. I wouldn't even consider a new 1080ti block atm.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Micro Center has a lot of 1080 blocks on clearance/discounted - same with Backplates. The 1080 is a strong card especially OC’d and kept cool under water. I just snagged a block and backplate for my 1080Ti Aero OC so I can push it further (normally keep my cards around 2 years then upgrade when it’s worth it)


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Micro Center has a lot of 1080 blocks on clearance/discounted - same with Backplates. The 1080 is a strong card especially OC'd and kept cool under water. I just snagged a block and backplate for my 1080Ti Aero OC so I can push it further (normally keep my cards around 2 years then upgrade when it's worth it)


Yea i picked up some 1080ti backplates for 5 bucks there so future other use. It's not a bad card just not worth investing into imo at this point.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Yea i picked up some 1080ti backplates for 5 bucks there so future other use. It's not a bad card just not worth investing into imo at this point.


That's why I got a replacement plan


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> That's why I got a replacement plan


lol the MC upgrade plan


----------



## DarthBaggins

Worth every penny


----------



## strokin3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Personally, I really like Watercool Heatkiller products. They are a bit more expensive than say, EK, but IMO the looks, build quality and "not something everyone has in their loop" look factor are worth a couple extra dollars. Their CPU and GPU blocks are top notch. From what I have read, Phanteks is another good option. Phanteks also has better non reference card compatibility.
> 
> For a reservoir, the Heatkiller Tube has a really good rad mounting system (height adjustable). Singularity Computers is another good company, but is even more expensive. I can't speak to other brands (haven't owned them).
> 
> For rads, you've got it right. HWL GTS 360 top and 240 front is fine (U flow NOT X flow). You aren't doing SLI or HEDT so 360/240 should be plenty. I would get a good rear 140mm fan (Noctua NF-A14 iPPC 2Krpm) and use it as intake so you have positive pressure and a bit more fresh air going to your 360. The 360 rad will clear the top VRM thread... but you have to use a 90 rotary fitting.
> 
> Tubing depends on what kind of look you want. IMO it's always easiest to go with colored tubing vs colored fluid with soft tubing. If you want to change colors... just take out the old tubing, use it measure the new stuff and follow the same routes. NBD. Assuming you take that route, Primochill Advanced LRT w/SysPrep (cleaning agent) and Liquid Utopia (coolant) is pretty tried and true. That should all come in one box.
> 
> If you want to go "all out" and feel a bit adventurous, you may want to try deliding. RockitCool makes a very easy delid tool. The process is FAR safer now, than it was a couple years ago. Naturally, there is a thread here on the subject.
> 
> For sites, PerformancePCs, ModMyMods, and manufacturer's websites.
> To be frank, I would say the MMM modded top is pretty much "required" unless you are doing just a front radiator. I know, $80 is steep. The front extension mod is easy and essentially free.
> 
> I would say Monsoon or Watercool Heatkiller Tube with a D5. PWM if you want (not really necessary). Soft tube, see above. Make sure to choose a size that is compatible with your desired fittings.
> 
> One thing I would add, is it is probably a good idea to sell your 1080 and get the 1080 Ti ASAP... or just stick with the 1080 until Volta. Buying one GPU block, then another isn't really the best financial decision.


-Should I be going for a 240 or a 280 GTS radiator for the front?
-Also do the monsoon or watercool heat killer come with the D5 Pump? Or do I have to buy it seperately?
-How would I do the front extension mod? Or do you mean to buy it from MMM as well?
-What size fittings should I use? Could you send me a link (I guess bitspower?)
-I need a 90 degree rotary fitting for the VRM block on the ASUS MAXIMUS X FORMULA but do I need it for other parts as well?

Sorry for the dumb questions. Never did water cooling before.


----------



## ThrashZone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> That's why I got a replacement plan


Hi,
Yep








Traded my 1 year old evga 1080 classified for a evga 1080ti ftw3 for a couple hundred bucks more and yes with another in store plan


----------



## B3MMi

Does EK 280 CE fit the front without any cutting or modding?

My 1080 TI FTW3 is so long that it seems I can't fit EK D5 pump res combo in between my GPU and front rad. I was going for that CE 280. What are my other options for mounting the res?

Edit: Also if you guys have pictures of EK radiators in this case (CE 280 would be perfect), I would love to see them. Ofc if you don't mind sharing.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3MMi*
> 
> Does EK 280 CE fit the front without any cutting or modding?
> 
> My 1080 TI FTW3 is so long that it seems I can't fit EK D5 pump res combo in between my GPU and front rad. I was going for that CE 280. What are my other options for mounting the res?
> 
> Edit: Also if you guys have pictures of EK radiators in this case (CE 280 would be perfect), I would love to see them. Ofc if you don't mind sharing.


Probably since they aren't very wide. Ek rads aren't very good for this case either. And oh yea this 2 d5s 2 150ml reservoirs and 2 360s, eatx board and a huge gpu. You can make it happen as long as your willing to make it work.


----------



## ThrashZone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3MMi*
> 
> Does EK 280 CE fit the front without any cutting or modding?
> 
> My 1080 TI FTW3 is so long that it seems I can't fit EK D5 pump res combo in between my GPU and front rad. I was going for that CE 280. What are my other options for mounting the res?
> 
> Edit: Also if you guys have pictures of EK radiators in this case (CE 280 would be perfect), I would love to see them. Ofc if you don't mind sharing.


Hi,
I just got a shorter reservoir for my EK 280 performance kit
Seems okay I was also looking into a EK hdd dual tray reservoir it also has a pump too
This is the least expensive one with D5 pump
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-dbay-d5-pwm-mx-acetal-incl-pump


----------



## B3MMi

I saw a picture of founders GTX 1070 and EK PE 240 in the front with D5 pump/res combo. There was just a little bit room left and that's why I'm pretty sure I can't fit it. The reservoir might but the pump/mounting part just seems to be too big.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3MMi*
> 
> Does EK 280 CE fit the front without any cutting or modding?
> 
> My 1080 TI FTW3 is so long that it seems I can't fit EK D5 pump res combo in between my GPU and front rad. I was going for that CE 280. What are my other options for mounting the res?
> 
> Edit: Also if you guys have pictures of EK radiators in this case (CE 280 would be perfect), I would love to see them. Ofc if you don't mind sharing.


Not my build, but I have test fitted a CE280 and it fits.


----------



## B3MMi

Great!


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3MMi*
> 
> Does EK 280 CE fit the front without any cutting or modding?
> 
> My 1080 TI FTW3 is so long that it seems I can't fit EK D5 pump res combo in between my GPU and front rad. I was going for that CE 280. What are my other options for mounting the res?
> 
> Edit: *Also if you guys have pictures of EK radiators in this case* (CE 280 would be perfect), I would love to see them. Ofc if you don't mind sharing.


EK PE-360 and PE-240 radiators in the Evolve







more pics in my gallery.


----------



## Stoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Water cooling in an Evolv ATX pretty much has one optimal layout, and this is it. Cut top, extended front, top mount mod, 2x 360x30mm rads, slim 140 intake and front rad mounted res. Pretty much every other config is going to have aesthetic, spacing or performance deficits.
> 
> Speaking from personal experience (p/p HWL GTR), thick rads aren't meant for this case. Anything that hinders air getting in and out as efficiently as possible, should be reconsidered.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Water cooling in an Evolv ATX pretty much has one optimal layout, and this is it. Cut top, extended front, top mount mod, 2x 360x30mm rads, slim 140 intake and front rad mounted res. Pretty much every other config is going to have aesthetic, spacing or performance deficits.
> 
> Speaking from personal experience (p/p HWL GTR), thick rads aren't meant for this case. Anything that hinders air getting in and out as efficiently as possible, should be reconsidered.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Water cooling in an Evolv ATX pretty much has one optimal layout, and this is it. Cut top, extended front, top mount mod, 2x 360x30mm rads, slim 140 intake and front rad mounted res. Pretty much every other config is going to have aesthetic, spacing or performance deficits.
> 
> Speaking from personal experience (p/p HWL GTR), thick rads aren't meant for this case. Anything that hinders air getting in and out as efficiently as possible, should be reconsidered.


Sorry, Im confused. You say 2x 360mm rads, slim 140 intake and front rad mounted res. Looks like only 2x 360mm rads. Is that correct? So 86400 square mm of radiator front surface.


----------



## B3MMi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> EK PE-360 and PE-240 radiators in the Evolve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more pics in my gallery.


Looks awesome! My GPU is about 3cm longer and the CE rad would be almost 1cm wider. So I'm almost completely sure I can't fit the pump/res combo there in between.

Am I right to think that I need to remove the cover plate from PSU shroud to install the 280mm CE rad? How about 240mm PE or SE radiator?

Edit:
What are my options for 360mm radiator that I can fit on the top with CE 280 in the front? I prefer as clean looking as possible and I'd like to have a thin one on the top. This is because a huge one will block visibility. Also I have relatively tall RAM (Trident Z).


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3MMi*
> 
> Looks awesome! My GPU is about 3cm longer and the CE rad would be almost 1cm wider. So I'm almost completely sure I can't fit the pump/res combo there in between.
> 
> Am I right to think that I need to remove the cover plate from PSU shroud to install the 280mm CE rad? How about 240mm PE or SE radiator?
> 
> Edit:
> What are my options for 360mm radiator that I can fit on the top with CE 280 in the front? I prefer as clean looking as possible and I'd like to have a thin one on the top. This is because a huge one will block visibility. Also I have relatively tall RAM (Trident Z).


Cheers







You would need to remove the front cover plate to fit the CE-280 same goes for the PE-240 (I notched mine out, see below), SE-240 you could fit in the front without notching or even removing the cover plate but I wouldn't bother as the SE as others have noted is terrible in terms of cooling performance. Tall RAM should be OK with any 360mm radiator up the top. The only issue I can see you having would be fitting the pump res combo, I have about 15mm clearance in mine but by the sounds of what you are saying you wouldn't have any.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You would need to remove the front cover plate to fit the CE-280 same goes for the PE-240 (I notched mine out, see below), SE-240 you could fit in the front without notching or even removing the cover plate but I wouldn't bother as the SE as others have noted is terrible in terms of cooling performance. Tall RAM should be OK with any 360mm radiator up the top. The only issue I can see you having would be fitting the pump res combo, I have about 15mm clearance in mine but by the sounds of what you are saying you wouldn't have any.


It will fit as long as the pump/res is mounted closer to the rad. Bitspower fan rad mount comes to mind of maximizing distance as it's just flat.
A couple of variations I've had in my evolv




Plenty of room for a longer gpu.


----------



## B3MMi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> It will fit as long as the pump/res is mounted closer to the rad. Bitspower fan rad mount comes to mind of maximizing distance as it's just flat.
> A couple of variations I've had in my evolv
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty of room for a longer gpu.


Could you link those for me? I hope that's not going to cost me too much as I live in Finland, Europe. The shipping costs are often quite high. Can I use those with EK-XRES 140 REVO D5?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3MMi*
> 
> Could you link those for me? I hope that's not going to cost me too much as I live in Finland, Europe. The shipping costs are often quite high. Can I use those with EK-XRES 140 REVO D5?


If you remove the vibration ring on the pump portion you will be able to mount it closer. To use the bracket you will need the bits power res clamps which should fit just fine. Alternatively you can measure and try the singularity computers core reservoir mount.


----------



## B3MMi

I wonder how these: https://noctua.at/en/nf-a14-pwm-chromax-black-swap
Would do in the front of my EVOLV ATX with that CE 280 rad. I already have those so I'd prefer not to change them


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3MMi*
> 
> Could you link those for me? I hope that's not going to cost me too much as I live in Finland, Europe. The shipping costs are often quite high. Can I use those with EK-XRES 140 REVO D5?


Hi there

If you are looking at this mount, here are few links in UK

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Bitspower-Reservoir-Mounting-kit-for-140mm-Radiators_34293.html

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/bitspower-120-water-tank-mount-panel-rad-side-wc-339-bp.html

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/BitsPower-Reservoirs-holder-set-of-2_54591.html

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## B3MMi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> If you are looking at this mount, here are few links in UK
> 
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Bitspower-Reservoir-Mounting-kit-for-140mm-Radiators_34293.html
> 
> https://www.overclockers.co.uk/bitspower-120-water-tank-mount-panel-rad-side-wc-339-bp.html
> 
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/BitsPower-Reservoirs-holder-set-of-2_54591.html
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Thanks a lot!


----------



## B3MMi

I started thinking if it was better to buy GTS 360 to the roof than CE 280 to the front. I'm only doing it for the CPU for now. Top would be exhaust. Front would be intake but what should rear be then? Intake? Would that hurt my GPU temps as I have a 1080 TI on air?

Anyway if I get the GTS 360 and put it to the top, I would have more room for the D5 pump/res combo. How would I then attach it to the case? EK's 15% discount expires tomorrow so I'd like to make my order in time.







I've put together quite big list of parts on EK's website.

Edit: I noticed that Watercooling UK has no GTS 360's on stock. I wonder if there's any coming.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3MMi*
> 
> I started thinking if it was better to buy GTS 360 to the roof than CE 280 to the front. I'm only doing it for the CPU for now. Top would be exhaust. Front would be intake but what should rear be then? Intake? Would that hurt my GPU temps as I have a 1080 TI on air?
> 
> Anyway if I get the GTS 360 and put it to the top, I would have more room for the D5 pump/res combo. How would I then attach it to the case? EK's 15% discount expires tomorrow so I'd like to make my order in time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've put together quite big list of parts on EK's website.
> 
> Edit: I noticed that Watercooling UK has no GTS 360's on stock. I wonder if there's any coming.


You could still use the EK spider bracket and mount the pump/res to the front 120/140mm fan.


----------



## B3MMi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scracy*
> 
> You could still use the EK spider bracket and mount the pump/res to the front 120/140mm fan.


Great! Thanks! I might actually order all the stuff today.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Wrong Phanteks thread lol


----------



## B3MMi

What would be the best fans for HWLabs Nemesis 360 GTS? I was going for Noctua NF-F12 Chromax but someone said the're not really that good for radiator compared to others.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3MMi*
> 
> What would be the best fans for HWLabs Nemesis 360 GTS? I was going for Noctua NF-F12 Chromax but someone said the're not really that good for radiator compared to others.


ml120


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3MMi*
> 
> What would be the best fans for HWLabs Nemesis 360 GTS? I was going for Noctua NF-F12 Chromax but someone said the're not really that good for radiator compared to others.


I think the be quiet! Silent Wings 3 120mm high speed PWM or variable voltage depending on how you want to control them.


----------



## nycgtr

Never had the sw3 but heard good things. In my experience with the gts past high 1300 rpm your temp gains in the case are minimal 2-3 deg at best . Running the exhaust at a higher speed than the intakes work well for a 2 degree reduction in water temp. I would say the ml120s are pretty silent up to about 1200 is when you start hearing them, at 1300-1400 rpm they aren't very loud as opposed to other fans at that speed.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Never had the sw3 but heard good things. In my experience with the gts past high 1300 rpm your temp gains in the case are minimal 2-3 deg at best . Running the exhaust at a higher speed than the intakes work well for a 2 degree reduction in water temp. I would say the ml120s are pretty silent up to about 1200 is when you start hearing them, at 1300-1400 rpm they aren't very loud as opposed to other fans at that speed.


The SW3 gets more air through the rad with less noise than the ML at lower speeds. Check the ThermalBench review on them. They also have a really nice sound profile.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The SW3 gets more air through the rad with less noise than the ML at lower speeds. Check the ThermalBench review on them. They also have a really nice sound profile.


Indeed!








It isn't so much that they move more air, but that they do it with a sound profile that is very pleasant to the ear.
But that is typical of be quiet! products.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The SW3 gets more air through the rad with less noise than the ML at lower speeds. Check the ThermalBench review on them. They also have a really nice sound profile.


Hmm took a look yea it's a few db quieter. They had come out after I got the MLs I believe. Was a consideration at one point when I needed more fans but I didn't feel to mix and match. One of things i liked about the ML was the quiet operation under 1100rpm for the most part and the max speed.


----------



## B3MMi

I found ML 120 PRO fans at 16€ each while Silent Wings 3 PWM is 25€ each. I think I also prefer the looks of ML's. Would it still be worth to buy SW?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3MMi*
> 
> I found ML 120 PRO fans at 16€ each while Silent Wings 3 PWM is 25€ each. I think I also prefer the looks of ML's. Would it still be worth to buy SW?


To me it would be. be queit! has a much better reputation than Corsair, and ML's with new maglev bearing are have not yet been on the market for even a year. I have used and tested many fans, including most all be quiet! coolers and fans. I have never been anything but very pleased with every one of them .. while many of the Corsiar products I've tested / used I did not find satisfactory.

But do't just do it because I would. Find out what others with similar experiences over the years think.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> To me it would be. be queit! has a much better reputation than Corsair, and ML's with new maglev bearing are have not yet been on the market for even a year. I have used and tested many fans, including most all be quiet! coolers and fans. I have never been anything but very pleased with every one of them .. while many of the Corsiar products I've tested / used I did not find satisfactory.
> 
> But do't just do it because I would. Find out what others with similar experiences over the years think.


The ml is a big jump from the sp120s and I owned a lot of those they weren't the worst fans but not the greatest. The ML I can say is a huge step up from anything else corsair put out. I have too many MLs to make the swap to sw3 to be wroth while but I find the fan speed range on the ML to be a plus. At the end of the day performance is very similar at lower rpms gathered from the charts at thermalbench.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> The ml is a big jump from the sp120s and I owned a lot of those they weren't the worst fans but not the greatest. The ML I can say is a huge step up from anything else corsair put out. I have too many MLs to make the swap to sw3 to be wroth while but I find the fan speed range on the ML to be a plus. At the end of the day performance is very similar at lower rpms gathered from the charts at thermalbench.


Thermalbench does good testing and reivews.









The ML's do perform well, but how long they will last is unknown. While the may end up lasting many years, I would rather use fans I know last everal years rather than these new maglev bearing fans.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

I have 9 ML140s and they have all been running great for a year with no issues or strange noises. I bought them after reviewing Thermalbench charts and haven't looked back. Temps are awesome! Can't speak for Noiseblocker or any other niche/craft brands but I trust anything with the little ships on it.


----------



## scracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0451*
> 
> I have 9 ML140s and they have all been running great for a year with no issues or strange noises. I bought them after reviewing Thermalbench charts and haven't looked back. Temps are awesome! Can't speak for Noiseblocker or any other niche/craft brands but I trust anything with the little ships on it.


I've had my 6 ML120's for just over a year with no issues either, very quiet below around 1200RMP


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> The ml is a big jump from the sp120s and I owned a lot of those they weren't the worst fans but not the greatest. The ML I can say is a huge step up from anything else corsair put out. I have too many MLs to make the swap to sw3 to be wroth while but I find the fan speed range on the ML to be a plus. At the end of the day performance is very similar at lower rpms gathered from the charts at thermalbench.


Agreed that the ML is a huge step up from the SP, and spending money on SW3 if you already have the ML makes little sense. I found the ML120 to be a very good fan when i tested it (the 140mm, not so much), but the pricing was ridiculous when they launched.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Agreed that the ML is a huge step up from the SP, and spending money on SW3 if you already have the ML makes little sense. I found the ML120 to be a very good fan when i tested it (the 140mm, not so much), but the pricing was ridiculous when they launched.


I didn't buy the pros. Stupid pricing for black rubber edges. I had gotten the 2 pack ml120s, it was around 32 dollars for 2. Bought 6 packs lol.


----------



## strokin3

Hey guys,

I decided that I'm going to order the Heatkiller Tube (150). Is that size too big ? Should I get the 100 instead? Can you guys recommend a pump for that from the heatkiller website? Also should I be getting anything else from Heatkiller? Is there a mounting bracket or anything I can use to make the process easier? Thanks.

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30204


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I decided that I'm going to order the Heatkiller Tube (150). Is that size too big ? Should I get the 100 instead? Can you guys recommend a pump for that from the heatkiller website? Also should I be getting anything else from Heatkiller? Is there a mounting bracket or anything I can use to make the process easier? Thanks.
> 
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30204


150 is the minimum I would go or it just looks funny imo. And yes you can buy a bracket that mounts to a fan slot.


----------



## strokin3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> 150 is the minimum I would go or it just looks funny imo. And yes you can buy a bracket that mounts to a fan slot.


Great thanks! Which bracket would work for that heatkiller tube? And should I just get the 200? I was just worried it might not fit.


----------



## kevindd992002

I was working on my new Enthoo Evolv ATX TG as a preparation for my new build. Naturally, I unscrew both tempered glasses from the case itself first. After doing the stuff that I need to do inside, it was time to screw the glasses back. The glass cover for the back side of the case was easy to screw in but I had a hard time doing the front cover. It looks like the two top holes on the glass are not perfectly aligned to the two top standoffs on the case resulting in me trying to force them to align (which they did) but I know this is not normal. Here are some pictures that show what I'm saying:

Left top hole:



Right top hole:



The one on the right (2nd pic) seems to be more "disaligned" than the one on the left. Does anyone experience the same thing? I will be contacting Phanteks support regarding this but I'm just very disappointed at this point. This case has been with for around 6 months, opened it just now and now this.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I was working on my new Enthoo Evolv ATX TG as a preparation for my new build. Naturally, I unscrew both tempered glasses from the case itself first. After doing the stuff that I need to do inside, it was time to screw the glasses back. The glass cover for the back side of the case was easy to screw in but I had a hard time doing the front cover. It looks like the two top holes on the glass are not perfectly aligned to the two top standoffs on the case resulting in me trying to force them to align (which they did) but I know this is not normal. Here are some pictures that show what I'm saying:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Left top hole:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right top hole:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one on the right (2nd pic) seems to be more "disaligned" than the one on the left. Does anyone experience the same thing? I will be contacting Phanteks support regarding this but I'm just very disappointed at this point. This case has been with for around 6 months, opened it just now and now this.


Just a thought and not sure it's even possible but could you have maybe put front / left panel on back / right side?


----------



## strokin3

Are heatkiller CPU blocks the best on the market? Or should I just get one from EK? I am using a i7-8700k

Which cpu block would you recommend from this page? I'm assuming these are the ones I should be choosing from. Whats the difference between AN and NI? Do I need to purchase the backplate as well?

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Categories/Wasserk%C3%BChler/%22CPU%20K%C3%BChler%22/%22f%C3%BCr%20INTEL%20Sockel%22

I'm going to pick up the Heatkiller D5 150 RES. I'm assuming I should get the mounting kit. Do I need the tube stand as well?

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Categories/Ausgleichsbeh%C3%A4lter/Zubeh%C3%B6r


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> Are heatkiller CPU blocks the best on the market? Or should I just get one from EK? I am using a i7-8700k
> 
> Which cpu block would you recommend from this page? I'm assuming these are the ones I should be choosing from. Whats the difference between AN and NI? Do I need to purchase the backplate as well?
> 
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Categories/Wasserk%C3%BChler/%22CPU%20K%C3%BChler%22/%22f%C3%BCr%20INTEL%20Sockel%22
> 
> I'm going to pick up the Heatkiller D5 150 RES. I'm assuming I should get the mounting kit. Do I need the tube stand as well?
> 
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Categories/Ausgleichsbeh%C3%A4lter/Zubeh%C3%B6r


The Heatkillers are arguably the best in terms of performance and build quality. Performance differences between the top name blocks is pretty minimal, however.


----------



## davidmoffitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I was working on my new Enthoo Evolv ATX TG as a preparation for my new build. Naturally, I unscrew both tempered glasses from the case itself first. After doing the stuff that I need to do inside, it was time to screw the glasses back. The glass cover for the back side of the case was easy to screw in but I had a hard time doing the front cover. It looks like the two top holes on the glass are not perfectly aligned to the two top standoffs on the case resulting in me trying to force them to align (which they did) but I know this is not normal.
> 
> ...
> 
> Does anyone experience the same thing? I will be contacting Phanteks support regarding this but I'm just very disappointed at this point. This case has been with for around 6 months, opened it just now and now this.


Yes, a little (nowhere near as bad as yours). Thankfully it's EASY to fix.

Keep the glass off. Screw in the retaining knobs. GENTLY bend the post to where it needs to be.


----------



## strokin3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The Heatkillers are arguably the best in terms of performance and build quality. Performance differences between the top name blocks is pretty minimal, however.


Thanks. Can you tell me which is the best cpu block on heatkiller's site?

I'm assuming its the :

HEATKILLER® IV PRO (INTEL processor) COPPER NI


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidmoffitt*
> 
> Yes, a little (nowhere near as bad as yours). Thankfully it's EASY to fix.
> 
> Keep the glass off. Screw in the retaining knobs. GENTLY bend the post to where it needs to be.


I'm not sure if I understand. What do you mean by "Screw in the retaining knobs. GENTLY bend the post to where it needs to be."? Are you suggesting to use like a pliers to bend the standoffs a little bit? Why do you need to screw in the knobs when doing that?


----------



## davidmoffitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I'm not sure if I understand. What do you mean by "Screw in the retaining knobs. GENTLY bend the post to where it needs to be."? Are you suggesting to use like a pliers to bend the standoffs a little bit? Why do you need to screw in the knobs when doing that?


You don't HAVE to screw in the knobs but it gives you something to hold onto. You could just do it by hand (bending the posts) if you can - my fingers were too big to easily accomplish that. YOU DO NOT need / want to use pliers, I was able to do it by hand without any difficulty (and I'm a wimp).


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidmoffitt*
> 
> You don't HAVE to screw in the knobs but it gives you something to hold onto. You could just do it by hand (bending the posts) if you can - my fingers were too big to easily accomplish that. YOU DO NOT need / want to use pliers, I was able to do it by hand without any difficulty (and I'm a wimp).


Ok, I see what you're saying. And that didn't put any kind of stress to the knobs to the point of potentially breaking them, right?


----------



## davidmoffitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok, I see what you're saying. And that didn't put any kind of stress to the knobs to the point of potentially breaking them, right?


Yep! In my case they only needed to move maybe 0.5-1mm and no, it didn't appear to stress them (no cracking of the paint around them. Of course YMMV and if you rip one off the side of the case don't yell at me


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidmoffitt*
> 
> Yep! In my case they only needed to move maybe 0.5-1mm and no, it didn't appear to stress them (no cracking of the paint around them. Of course YMMV and if you rip one off the side of the case don't yell at me


Just tried your suggestion and it worked BUT the bend on the standoffs was too much that when you screw the whole assembly in the thumbscrews are no longer flushed to the glass window. So I just put them back and just wait for Phanteks to help me on this. Bummer.


----------



## oO-Waschbaer-Oo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Just tried your suggestion and it worked BUT the bend on the standoffs was too much that when you screw the whole assembly in the thumbscrews are no longer flushed to the glass window. So I just put them back and just wait for Phanteks to help me on this. Bummer.


sounds more like a slightly bend case


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oO-Waschbaer-Oo*
> 
> sounds more like a slightly bend case


Yeah and I'm expecting Phanteks to replace the whole case. I don't think sending me a new window glass panel will solve the case. The glass window already scratched off a small area of paint of the modded top panel I got from MMM because of the issue so there's that.

Phanteks support already replied to me and they're asking for more pics of the issue.


----------



## strokin3

Guys is the best cpu block you can get on i7-8700k this :

HEATKILLER® IV PRO (INTEL processor) COPPER NI

Also I should be getting the backplate as well?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> Guys is the best cpu block you can get on i7-8700k this :
> 
> HEATKILLER® IV PRO (INTEL processor) COPPER NI
> 
> Also I should be getting the backplate as well?


EK Supremacy Evo and Aquacomputer Kryos NEXT are pretty much the same compared to the Heatkiller IV Pro. IMO, Heatkiller aesthetics and build quality give it the slight edge. The absolute best block you can get is the Aquacomputer Kryos with the silver coldplate... but IMO that isn't worth the money for a couple of degrees.


----------



## strokin3

Do you guys feel like I should get a D5-Vario or a D5-PWM ? I don't mind spending the extra 5 bucks but I've heard the PWM does more harm than good for most people.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> Do you guys feel like I should get a D5-Vario or a D5-PWM ? I don't mind spending the extra 5 bucks but I've heard the PWM does more harm than good for most people.


That depends on how easily you can reach the switch. If you can easily access the switch on the vario then get the vario. If not just get the pwm. I've got 4pwm d5s and still got 2 varios sitting in a box. No issues with either.


----------



## strokin3

I've never tried... is it easy to reach on the Phanteks case?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> I've never tried... is it easy to reach on the Phanteks case?


Errr that kinda depends on where you put your pump lol.


----------



## davidmoffitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> Do you guys feel like I should get a D5-Vario or a D5-PWM ? I don't mind spending the extra 5 bucks but I've heard the PWM does more harm than good for most people.


Never heard of problems with PWM (except for using other brands with an Aquero). I vastly prefer PWM vs Vario as I can adjust it with software w/o taking stuff apart, and I can have it ramp up - for example in my old build (CaseLabs S8 with 3 rads, 2 GPUs, CPU block and dual D5s) I had the pumps running around 38-40% until water temp got near 40C then ramped them up to 50% and if it ever got to 50C (hahaha nope) I had the pumps set to increase to 100%.


----------



## davidmoffitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> ... should be getting the backplate as well?


The backplate is absolutely worth it, it makes mounting easier and a TON more stable/secure (and with the ability to get a little higher mount pressure that means thinner thermal paste, more even contact, and very likely lower temps).


----------



## strokin3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidmoffitt*
> 
> Never heard of problems with PWM (except for using other brands with an Aquero). I vastly prefer PWM vs Vario as I can adjust it with software w/o taking stuff apart, and I can have it ramp up - for example in my old build (CaseLabs S8 with 3 rads, 2 GPUs, CPU block and dual D5s) I had the pumps running around 38-40% until water temp got near 40C then ramped them up to 50% and if it ever got to 50C (hahaha nope) I had the pumps set to increase to 100%.


Thanks!

I also see a WCP version. Should i be getting that?


----------



## davidmoffitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strokin3*
> 
> !
> 
> I also see a WCP version. Should i be getting that?


Without ruffling too many feathers, basically all d5s are the same (except for electronics / control). You can use an EK D5 - who actually uses Lowara as an OEM - in a WC housing, a Swiftech pump in a Bitspower housing. The pump top has the most influence on performance, the pump is pretty darn universal.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidmoffitt*
> 
> Without ruffling too many feathers, basically all d5s are the same (except for electronics / control). You can use an EK D5 - who actually uses Lowara as an OEM - in a WC housing, a Swiftech pump in a Bitspower housing. The pump top has the most influence on performance, the pump is pretty darn universal.


ek started using a g2 version which uses xlyeum or whatever it's called basically liang's new name about 2 years ago.


----------



## milkguru

I've been running a plain standard D5 using a molex connection for 8 solid years now.

Never needed to monitor or adjust pump speed, never needed fancy PWM controls or anything. I have the speed set to 3, it does its thing, I can't hear it and don't worry about it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidmoffitt*
> 
> Without ruffling too many feathers, basically all d5s are the same (except for electronics / control). You can use an EK D5 - who actually uses Lowara as an OEM - in a WC housing, a Swiftech pump in a Bitspower housing. The pump top has the most influence on performance, the pump is pretty darn universal.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> ek started using a g2 version which uses xlyeum or whatever it's called basically liang's new name about 2 years ago.


You aren't ruffling feathers, and what you are saying is correct. While you point out that EK uses Lowara (which is a dba for Xylem), so does Swiftech, XSPC, Aquacomputer, Alphacool, etc - nothing special about the EK. If it says D5, it is a Xylem. The differences are in the PWM controls on PWM models, they will differ by manufacturer.


----------



## Meoh

Hey!

I'm currently running a "hybrid" (custom loop + AIO) setup with 4 exhaust fans (3 Vardars ER below the 360 rad and beQuiet! Silent Wings 3 at the rear) and 2 intake fans (NZXT AER P fans that came with Kraken x52). My speedfan is configured so that top rad fans run at 25% speed (~550 RPM), the intake is 50% (~750 RPM), rear fan is always 30% (~430 RPM). All fans are 120mm size. The top panel rests on its stands (not pushed all the way into its designed place) and the fron panel is semi-opened (2 top clips are open).

What bothers me is negative pressure. I witness aroma stick smoke pulled inside the case and that's sad. Things get worse when I play games, because under load top fans ramp up to 1500+ RPM and the negative pressure grows even bigger. I'm not talking piles of dust, but even a small amount on top of that polished EK GPU backplate is bugging me as hell. I don't like how it looks and I certainly hate to know my PC sucks dust in.

Now, with me planning to replace AIO with another rad and including a CPU into the loop, it's a good time to think it over thoroughly. Top rad is 360, 38mm thick, so I have to stick with 240 or 280 for front I guess. This leaves me with - give or take - exact same airflow scheme as I have now (4 exhaust + 2 intake). So this means the negative pressure will still be there. Any ideas how to fix that? I was thinking flipping top fans upside down so that they PULL air through the top rad, acting as intake. Any thoughts on this one? Yes, it will definitely hurt the aesthetics of the build and for that reason, I don't really wanna go for it, but will it have any value in terms of better airflow and cooling performance? I might sacrifice a better look if that's worth it.

Thanks.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meoh*
> 
> Hey!
> 
> I'm currently running a "hybrid" (custom loop + AIO) setup with 4 exhaust fans (3 Vardars ER below the 360 rad and beQuiet! Silent Wings 3 at the rear) and 2 intake fans (NZXT AER P fans that came with Kraken x52). My speedfan is configured so that top rad fans run at 25% speed (~550 RPM), the intake is 50% (~750 RPM), rear fan is always 30% (~430 RPM). All fans are 120mm size. The top panel rests on its stands (not pushed all the way into its designed place) and the fron panel is semi-opened (2 top clips are open).
> 
> What bothers me is negative pressure. I witness aroma stick smoke pulled inside the case and that's sad. Things get worse when I play games, because under load top fans ramp up to 1500+ RPM and the negative pressure grows even bigger. I'm not talking piles of dust, but even a small amount on top of that polished EK GPU backplate is bugging me as hell. I don't like how it looks and I certainly hate to know my PC sucks dust in.
> 
> Now, with me planning to replace AIO with another rad and including a CPU into the loop, it's a good time to think it over thoroughly. Top rad is 360, 38mm thick, so I have to stick with 240 or 280 for front I guess. This leaves me with - give or take - exact same airflow scheme as I have now (4 exhaust + 2 intake). So this means the negative pressure will still be there. Any ideas how to fix that? I was thinking flipping top fans upside down so that they PULL air through the top rad, acting as intake. Any thoughts on this one? Yes, it will definitely hurt the aesthetics of the build and for that reason, I don't really wanna go for it, but will it have any value in terms of better airflow and cooling performance? I might sacrifice a better look if that's worth it.
> 
> Thanks.


The rear exhaust should be removed.

If you go with a 280...you will have good balance. You don't go by the number of fans, you go by total CFM.


----------



## Meoh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The rear exhaust should be removed.
> 
> If you go with a 280...you will have food balance. You don't go by the number of fans, you go by total CFM.


thanks for the reply. Yeah that 's an obvious quick workaround. Still, any thoughts about using top as intake? I've seen various tests and the conclusion is always more or less the same: the difference between push and pull is negligible, if any at all. If that's true, I'm wondering why people tend to use top strictly as exhaust..

I mean you've replied yourself to people who make a serious mistake trying to squeeze fans in the top area above the rad, although they cannot breathe here - people are prone to mistakes, but I haven't seen anyone even trying to set up pull configuration at the top.

I know that the legend says you have to support the "natural" airflow with hot air moving upwards, thus bot and front as intakes, rear and top for exhaust. It's just so classic that I myself do that without even thinking. But many people who I trust say it's not a rule of a thumb, like Steve from GamersNexus who said that the air moves in the direction fans send it, "natural" flow means nothing when you have so powerful force at work. So I'm at a loss here, are there any reasonable explanations to why no one asks about top intake or tries it?..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meoh*
> 
> Hey!
> 
> I'm currently running a "hybrid" (custom loop + AIO) setup with 4 exhaust fans (3 Vardars ER below the 360 rad and beQuiet! Silent Wings 3 at the rear) and 2 intake fans (NZXT AER P fans that came with Kraken x52). My speedfan is configured so that top rad fans run at 25% speed (~550 RPM), the intake is 50% (~750 RPM), rear fan is always 30% (~430 RPM). All fans are 120mm size. The top panel rests on its stands (not pushed all the way into its designed place) and the fron panel is semi-opened (2 top clips are open).
> 
> What bothers me is negative pressure. I witness aroma stick smoke pulled inside the case and that's sad. Things get worse when I play games, because under load top fans ramp up to 1500+ RPM and the negative pressure grows even bigger. I'm not talking piles of dust, but even a small amount on top of that polished EK GPU backplate is bugging me as hell. I don't like how it looks and I certainly hate to know my PC sucks dust in.
> 
> Now, with me planning to replace AIO with another rad and including a CPU into the loop, it's a good time to think it over thoroughly. Top rad is 360, 38mm thick, so I have to stick with 240 or 280 for front I guess. This leaves me with - give or take - exact same airflow scheme as I have now (4 exhaust + 2 intake). So this means the negative pressure will still be there. Any ideas how to fix that? I was thinking flipping top fans upside down so that they PULL air through the top rad, acting as intake. Any thoughts on this one? Yes, it will definitely hurt the aesthetics of the build and for that reason, I don't really wanna go for it, but will it have any value in terms of better airflow and cooling performance? I might sacrifice a better look if that's worth it.
> 
> Thanks.


First thing I will suggest is clicking on "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig and then clicking on 5th topic. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. Hopefully 5th will help you understand how to setup optimum case airflow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meoh*
> 
> thanks for the reply. Yeah that 's an obvious quick workaround. Still, any thoughts about using top as intake? I've seen various tests and the conclusion is always more or less the same: the difference between push and pull is negligible, if any at all. If that's true, I'm wondering why people tend to use top strictly as exhaust..
> 
> I mean you've replied yourself to people who make a serious mistake trying to squeeze fans in the top area above the rad, although they cannot breathe here - people are prone to mistakes, but I haven't seen anyone even trying to set up pull configuration at the top.
> 
> I know that the legend says you have to support the "natural" airflow with hot air moving upwards, thus bot and front as intakes, rear and top for exhaust. It's just so classic that I myself do that without even thinking. But many people who I trust say it's not a rule of a thumb, like Steve from GamersNexus who said that the air moves in the direction fans send it, "natural" flow means nothing when you have so powerful force at work. So I'm at a loss here, are there any reasonable explanations to why no one asks about top intake or tries it?..


Top intake can be problematic, especially if case is setting with back to wall and/or under desk where warm exhaust air is being guided by wall and/or desk to flow up and over top of case. Both push and pull through top require adequate venting.

There is no legend about supporting "'natural' airlflow' with hot air moving upwards" only a disproven myth.







Air flows where fans pull/push it with many times the power of convection movement. Steve is correct, except fans are not a 'powerful force' .. the amount of 'force' a 1.5mm H2O rated fan makes is about the same as the difference in 'amount of force' on you with toes touched the ocean or standing on a dock 4 feet above ocean.

1.5 mm H2O = 0.00213350150014275 psi .. about the same as the difference between sea level and 4 feet above sea level.

0.00212 psi is the difference in pressure between sea level and 4 feet above sea level

0.00053 psi is pressure change for each foot higher we are above sea level

For comparison, 14.696 psi = atmospheric pressure at sea level .. the pressure of air pushing on us at sea level.

If we had a fan rated 70 mm H2O, it would have the force of about 0.1 psi

Do keep in mind these pressure readign are all at sea level and change as we go up or down / above or below sea level


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meoh*
> 
> thanks for the reply. Yeah that 's an obvious quick workaround. Still, any thoughts about using top as intake? I've seen various tests and the conclusion is always more or less the same: the difference between push and pull is negligible, if any at all. If that's true, I'm wondering why people tend to use top strictly as exhaust..
> 
> I mean you've replied yourself to people who make a serious mistake trying to squeeze fans in the top area above the rad, although they cannot breathe here - people are prone to mistakes, but I haven't seen anyone even trying to set up pull configuration at the top.
> 
> I know that the legend says you have to support the "natural" airflow with hot air moving upwards, thus bot and front as intakes, rear and top for exhaust. It's just so classic that I myself do that without even thinking. But many people who I trust say it's not a rule of a thumb, like Steve from GamersNexus who said that the air moves in the direction fans send it, "natural" flow means nothing when you have so powerful force at work. So I'm at a loss here, are there any reasonable explanations to why no one asks about top intake or tries it?..


Steve's explanation is correct, hot air does naturally rise, but in a space as small as a case, with even minimal fans....it's goes where you move it. The force of the rise is incredibly small.

The biggest issue with trying to use the top as intake in the Evolv ATX is simply the restriction. If you block off all of the openings, you still have very restricted flow to the rad when used as intake. If you don't have a good seal, you wind up simply recirculating the rad's exhaust over and over and it gets warmer and warmer.


----------



## Meoh

@ciarlatano @doyll

thanks!







So if I get it right, there is nothing wrong with top intake as for itself if your case is not too close to the wall, but in Evolv the top is too restricted and since it's easier to *push* the air through a restricted area rather then trying to *pull* it from the outside through those tiny holes, intake is not an option, right? Then it's still weird cuz I don't remember any builds I've seen with top intakes in more breathing cases like HAF or something.

@doyll
Ah, I remember reading that article years ago, back when I had CM Storm Trooper and dreamt about WCing it. Dropped that idea for several years after seeing the total cart price at performance-pcs lol.
Thats a great article, very understandable. The only difficulty I have is understanding the example.
Quote:


> My Define R2 system has three TY-140 74cfm intake fans. (no exhaust fans) in case while CPU has TY-143 130cfm fan and GPU has two TY-100 44cfm fans
> Case = 222cfm
> Components = 218cfm


What does that "components cfm" mean? I initially understood it as the "exhaust cfm", meaning that you should try to equalize it with the "intake cfm" - and I kept wondering why you included aftermarket GPU fans' cfm into the equation since they don't exhaust air like in blower cards, but rather recirculate the air inside the case. But I can see where I could be wrong if you meant a completely different thing, that this "218cfm" is the airflow GPU+CPU fans *require* based on their specs; your only goal is to provide at least this amount of airflow with your intakes, not thinking about any exhaust cuz excessive air will escape all by itself through case openings. If you meant that, then ok I get it. Not without an issue though, because it's all calculated on max cfm and obviously your case\component fans have different speed curves, which affects these calculations.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meoh*
> 
> @ciarlatano @doyll
> 
> thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if I get it right, there is nothing wrong with top intake as for itself if your case is not too close to the wall, but in Evolv the top is too restricted and since it's easier to *push* the air through a restricted area rather then trying to *pull* it from the outside through those tiny holes, intake is not an option, right? Then it's still weird cuz I don't remember any builds I've seen with top intakes in more breathing cases like HAF or something.
> 
> @doyll
> Ah, I remember reading that article years ago, back when I had CM Storm Trooper and dreamt about WCing it. Dropped that idea for several years after seeing the total cart price at performance-pcs lol.
> Thats a great article, very understandable. The only difficulty I have is understanding the example.
> What does that "components cfm" mean? I initially understood it as the "exhaust cfm", meaning that you should try to equalize it with the "intake cfm" - and I kept wondering why you included aftermarket GPU fans' cfm into the equation since they don't exhaust air like in blower cards, but rather recirculate the air inside the case. But I can see where I could be wrong if you meant a completely different thing, that this "218cfm" is the airflow GPU+CPU fans *require* based on their specs; your only goal is to provide at least this amount of airflow with your intakes, not thinking about any exhaust cuz excessive air will escape all by itself through case openings. If you meant that, then ok I get it. Not without an issue though, because it's all calculated on max cfm and obviously your case\component fans have different speed curves, which affects these calculations.


Top intakes tend to disrupt the front to back airflow. Any time turbulence is created we loose flow, and when we loose flow it increases the chances of heated air coming out of cooler contaminating the cool airflow going to coolers.

"Component cfm" is total rated cfm of CPU and GPU fans. The CPU and GPU fans need more cfm from case intake fans then they use so there is enough extra cfm of air to be flowing air around CPU and GPU coolers to push their heated exhaust air on back and out of case. Like I said, case airflow not only supplies CPU and GPU with cool air, but has to push GPU heated air back and out of case so it does not contaminate and heat up their cool air souce. Remember every degree warmer the air going into cooler is translated into almost exactly a degree hotter the component will be.

Exactly! Extra case airflow cannot hurt cooling (well, unless extremely high airflow), but we don't want too much airflow because we want system to be quiet.

Yes, based on fan specs, and spec's are not really the airflow we have. But it was simplest way to explain it. The use of remote sensor thermometer is so we can adjust case airflow so it supply cool air to components .. and case fans running in sync with cooler fans means airflow is hopefully consistently matching coolers' needs.


----------



## Strokin3s

Are most guys using the Corsair ML120's or something else right now?


----------



## doyll

Strokin3s said:


> Are most guys using the Corsair ML120's or something else right now?


I hope you are not seriously asking if most people use ML's. I would be very surprised if 1 out of every 10 computer owners had any ML fans.


----------



## ciarlatano

doyll said:


> I hope you are not seriously asking if most people use ML's. I would be very surprised if 1 out of every 10 computer owners had any ML fans.


I would say it is far, far less than that. Even in New builds.


----------



## doyll

ciarlatano said:


> I would say it is far, far less than that. Even in New builds.


Indeed, probably less than 1 in 100, even in custom biulds .. and with all the pre-built systems most buy it's probably less than 1 out of 1000 owners even has sailboat logo fans in their system.


----------



## Strokin3s

So which fans should we be using then?


----------



## ciarlatano

Strokin3s said:


> So which fans should we be using then?


Who is "we"?

Personally....I should probably be using SW3s, but since I don't have an issue with the Phanteks F140SP/F120MP setup I currently have installed....and that the difference would be minimal....and I don't have three 120mm SW3 on hand....it would seem to be an exercise in spending time and money for very little gain. If I were starting from scratch again, that would be a different story.


----------



## Strokin3s

ciarlatano said:


> Who is "we"?
> 
> Personally....I should probably be using SW3s, but since I don't have an issue with the Phanteks F140SP/F120MP setup I currently have installed....and that the difference would be minimal....and I don't have three 120mm SW3 on hand....it would seem to be an exercise in spending time and money for very little gain. If I were starting from scratch again, that would be a different story.


okay and what is so bad about the ML120?


----------



## Strokin3s

Also does anyone here have any experience with the heatkiller tube mounting? (Heatkiller Res. )


I have this basic mounting kit but i forgot to get the fan / radiator adapter : 

http://shop.watercool.de/HEATKILLER-Tube-basic-mounting-kit/en


Do I need to order one of the other parts? And if so, which? 


I plan to have a 240 gts in the front but i was going to keep the fans on the outside since I don't want to do any modding. Im not sure the best way to mount this lol


----------



## ciarlatano

Strokin3s said:


> okay and what is so bad about the ML120?


There are no posts saying that there is anything bad about the ML120 in response to your question, so I'm not sure why you are thinking there are. From a purely performance standpoint, the ML120 is a fine fan that stands up well with other top tier fans. From a subjective standpoint, when I tested them I found that I dislike their tonality, think they are pretty darned ugly and think they are overpriced for what they are - but that is purely my taste. I can think of at least a dozen fans I have tested that I would prefer to have in my build, and that is the whole thing, I can only speak for my build. You need to decide what you like for your build. You may find the tonality to be fine and think the ML120 is a good looking fan - there is no right or wrong answer when it comes to preferences. There is plenty of info out there on the ML120 to go by, and it all points to the performance being good, but not one of a kind.

On your res mounting question - you should be able to line up two of the existing holes in the res mount area of the case with the basic kit. You shouldn't need a fan adapter.


----------



## Strokin3s

Hey guys I was originally going to use soft tubing but have since decided to use PETG...

Do these fittings work ? Or do you need different types of fittings for hard tubing? I would be getting the promo chill 3/8 x 1/2 tubing


http://www.performance-pcs.com/bits...ing-cc2-ultimate2-for-id-3-8-od-1-2-tube.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bits...ssion-fitting-ultimate-for-id-3-8-od-1-2.html


----------



## kevindd992002

So I had a carpenter ghetto mod the midplate of my Enthoo Evolv ATX (to fit a 280mm rad) and the PCI slots grill (to vertically mount my GPU). It turned out "ok" but there were some scratches (metal exposed) that I want to remedy. What is the best thing to do with these scratches? Attached are some pics of what I mean.


----------



## scracy

kevindd992002 said:


> So I had a carpenter ghetto mod the midplate of my Enthoo Evolv ATX (to fit a 280mm rad) and the PCI slots grill (to vertically mount my GPU). It turned out "ok" but there were some scratches (metal exposed) that I want to remedy. What is the best thing to do with these scratches? Attached are some pics of what I mean.


Some Satin black spray paint would be ideal  or if you are really lazy black permanent marker.


----------



## kevindd992002

scracy said:


> Some Satin black spray paint would be ideal  or if you are really lazy black permanent marker.


Would a Satin Black spray paint exactly match that of the factory color of the case to the point of not noticing it? I haven't really tried using a spray paint in precision jobs so I don't trust myself but I have to do it either way 

Yeah, I know a sharpie would do but knowing that spray paints are cheap I think I'll go with them, lol.


----------



## scracy

Strokin3s said:


> Hey guys I was originally going to use soft tubing but have since decided to use PETG...
> 
> Do these fittings work ? Or do you need different types of fittings for hard tubing? I would be getting the promo chill 3/8 x 1/2 tubing
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bits...ing-cc2-ultimate2-for-id-3-8-od-1-2-tube.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bits...ssion-fitting-ultimate-for-id-3-8-od-1-2.html


As explained earlier the links to the fittings in your post are for soft tubing, they are completely different to what you need for PETG or any other hardline tubing see link below
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hdc-fitting-12mm-black-6-pack
Im not saying use EK fittings just showing you an example of what they look like and how they look different


----------



## scracy

kevindd992002 said:


> Would a Satin Black spray paint exactly match that of the factory color of the case to the point of not noticing it? I haven't really tried using a spray paint in precision jobs so I don't trust myself but I have to do it either way
> 
> Yeah, I know a sharpie would do but knowing that spray paints are cheap I think I'll go with them, lol.


A black sharpie actually colour matches really well but wont stop the potential rust over time hence why I said lazy way lol. You could spray some satin black spray paint into the lid of the spray pack and use a hobby brush to brush the paint on the cutout edges, just let the paint dry a little first so that it thickens a bit before you apply it, satin black should match really well in terms of colour :thumb:


----------



## dainfamous

Paint markers


----------



## kevindd992002

scracy said:


> A black sharpie actually colour matches really well but wont stop the potential rust over time hence why I said lazy way lol. You could spray some satin black spray paint into the lid of the spray pack and use a hobby brush to brush the paint on the cutout edges, just let the paint dry a little first so that it thickens a bit before you apply it, satin black should match really well in terms of colour :thumb:


Lol, ok. Why does it need to be thick before application?



dainfamous said:


> Paint markers


Would these be better than spray paints?


----------



## scracy

kevindd992002 said:


> Lol, ok. Why does it need to be thick before application?
> 
> 
> 
> Would these be better than spray paints?


Spray paint is very thin and hard to apply with a brush unless you let it dry and thicken a bit


----------



## kevindd992002

scracy said:


> Spray paint is very thin and hard to apply with a brush unless you let it dry and thicken a bit


I see. So do I spray a couple of layers on the lid first and have it thicken or would one spray be enough and just wait?

What do you think of the paint markers idea?


----------



## scracy

kevindd992002 said:


> I see. So do I spray a couple of layers on the lid first and have it thicken or would one spray be enough and just wait?
> 
> What do you think of the paint markers idea?


Just a few squirts inside the lid and let it thicken a little, paint pen might be OK to use if you can get one that matches the colour you want


----------



## kevindd992002

How do you guys mount your PSU in the Enthoo Evolv ATX case? Fan side up or down? Normally, I put it fan side down so that the fan sucks cool air from the bottom of the case but the label that is seen from front side of the case shows the specs (not the name of the PSU as it's on the other side and inverted). If I put it fan side up then all labels fall into place properly but the fan is then sucking warmer air from the inside of the case and the bottom fan dust filter will be useless. Any thoughts?


----------



## scracy

kevindd992002 said:


> How do you guys mount your PSU in the Enthoo Evolv ATX case? Fan side up or down? Normally, I put it fan side down so that the fan sucks cool air from the bottom of the case but the label that is seen from front side of the case shows the specs (not the name of the PSU as it's on the other side and inverted). If I put it fan side up then all labels fall into place properly but the fan is then sucking warmer air from the inside of the case and the bottom fan dust filter will be useless. Any thoughts?


Personally I mounted my PSU fan side down.


----------



## kevindd992002

scracy said:


> Personally I mounted my PSU fan side down.


Can you post your build again here? I can't seem to search for the pic that you posted last time because of this crappy new underclock.net interface!


----------



## scracy

kevindd992002 said:


> Can you post your build again here? I can't seem to search for the pic that you posted last time because of this crappy new underclock.net interface!


Yeah all my galleries have gone with the migration to the new platform, hopefully they will all be back up soon


----------



## brab

So finally got around to completely finish my first watercooled build.
First of all big thanks to ciarlatano, scracy & nycgtr for the help and advice, you guys are awesome!

It was a lengthy and painstaking process (had to disassemble everything twice to fix tiny leaks).
The only thing I regret is that I scratched some things up (fittings, res), but Sharpie covers the mistakes well! 
Also it was a very tough fit for the 1080ti, unfortunately didn't think about the spacing and by the time I was building everything the time to be able to exchange the card was passed.
But with some roughage I was able to do it!
Heatkiller Tube is all scratched up on that side, but you can't see them from the card anyway, so in the end not too big of a problem.

Water out temps are 27-28C and CPU cores are usually between 28C and 29C idle (24C room temperature).
I assume that's all good?
Also did the mod where the front of the case is 4mm pushed outwards (didn't change the temps at idle at all, didn't test on full load yet).
Overall I love the build, it's pretty much impossible to hear anything, the most silent PC I have ever (or not) heard!!! 

P.S.
Yes I know that a piece of carbon foil is messed up on the bottom, but you can't see it when the case is closed, and I wasn't going to re-do all of it!

The parts used:
Maximus X Hero
i7-8700k (stock speeds currently)
Gigabyte AORUS 1080Ti
Samsung 960 Pro 500Gb (boot)
2 x Samsung 850 Evo 2TB (storage, RAID1)
Seasonic PRIME Ultra 850W 

Watercooling:
All Bitspower fittings (incl temp probe)
HEATKILLER® Tube 150
HEATKILLER® IV PRO (with backplate)
EKWB D5 PWM
EKWB CE280 Radiator
PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tubing
Noiseblocker NB-eLoop® fans

Whole album in high res:
https://imgur.com/a/BVnJc


----------



## scracy

brab said:


> So finally got around to completely finish my first watercooled build.
> First of all big thanks to ciarlatano, scracy & nycgtr for the help and advice, you guys are awesome!
> 
> It was a lengthy and painstaking process (had to disassemble everything twice to fix tiny leaks).
> The only thing I regret is that I scratched some things up (fittings, res), but Sharpie covers the mistakes well!
> Also it was a very tough fit for the 1080ti, unfortunately didn't think about the spacing and by the time I was building everything the time to be able to exchange the card was passed.
> But with some roughage I was able to do it!
> Heatkiller Tube is all scratched up on that side, but you can't see them from the card anyway, so in the end not too big of a problem.
> 
> Water out temps are 27-28C and CPU cores are usually between 28C and 29C idle (24C room temperature).
> I assume that's all good?
> Also did the mod where the front of the case is 4mm pushed outwards (didn't change the temps at idle at all, didn't test on full load yet).
> Overall I love the build, it's pretty much impossible to hear anything, the most silent PC I have ever (or not) heard!!!
> 
> P.S.
> Yes I know that a piece of carbon foil is messed up on the bottom, but you can't see it when the case is closed, and I wasn't going to re-do all of it!
> 
> The parts used:
> Maximus X Hero
> i7-8700k (stock speeds currently)
> Gigabyte AORUS 1080Ti
> Samsung 960 Pro 500Gb (boot)
> 2 x Samsung 850 Evo 2TB (storage, RAID1)
> Seasonic PRIME Ultra 850W
> 
> Watercooling:
> All Bitspower fittings (incl temp probe)
> HEATKILLER® Tube 150
> HEATKILLER® IV PRO (with backplate)
> EKWB D5 PWM
> EKWB CE280 Radiator
> PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tubing
> Noiseblocker NB-eLoop® fans
> 
> Whole album in high res:
> https://imgur.com/a/BVnJc


Nice job, congrats on your build :thumb: Your idle temps are about the same as mine for the same ambient though I have more radiator surface area but also more heat to get rid of with 2 graphics cards in the loop, more air flow would get idle temps down a little more, what speed are your fans at idle? mine sit around 900RPM and are dead silent


----------



## brab

Thanks very much! 

CPU is of course the D5.
All in all very low! HAHA

Cooling Fans	
CPU	1571 RPM
Chassis #1	674 RPM
Chassis #2	573 RPM
Chassis #3	599 RPM
GPU	0 RPM (0%)

Prime95 (Small FFTs):
CPU	59 °C (138 °F)
CPU Package	70 °C (158 °F)
CPU IA Cores	70 °C (158 °F)
CPU GT Cores	41 °C (106 °F)
CPU #1 / Core #1	70 °C (158 °F)
CPU #1 / Core #2	66 °C (151 °F)
CPU #1 / Core #3	70 °C (158 °F)
CPU #1 / Core #4	68 °C (154 °F)
CPU #1 / Core #5	66 °C (151 °F)
CPU #1 / Core #6	67 °C (153 °F)

Cooling Fans	
CPU	3117 RPM
Chassis #1	1041 RPM
Chassis #2	861 RPM
Chassis #3	903 RPM
GPU	0 RPM (0%)

Could only hear the fans, no pump...thumbs up for that!


----------



## nycgtr

Back to sli in this case. BP blocks outperforming the EK blocks in this case by a pretty huge margin.


----------



## kevindd992002

Can anybody send me a link to how to do the simple front mod for the Enthoo Evolv ATX?


----------



## brab

Making new vents (you need water jet or something for that) or making it protrude outwards?

The second one is shown here (you need to get longer screws and some spacers)...


----------



## kevindd992002

brab said:


> Making new vents (you need water jet or something for that) or making it protrude outwards?
> 
> The second one is shown here (you need to get longer screws and some spacers)...


Just making it protrude outwards. Do you have the exact length of screws and spacers thickness needed for this simple ghetto mod so that the front side of the case doesn't look very ugly?


----------



## doyll

brab said:


> Making new vents (you need water jet or something for that) or making it protrude outwards?
> 
> The second one is shown here (you need to get longer screws and some spacers)...





kevindd992002 said:


> Just making it protrude outwards. Do you have the exact length of screws and spacers thickness needed for this simple ghetto mod so that the front side of the case doesn't look very ugly?


I found spacing it out that much made little to no difference in temps .. so little change I could not definitely prove temps were any lower.


----------



## ciarlatano

doyll said:


> I found spacing it out that much made little to no difference in temps .. so little change I could not definitely prove temps were any lower.


It made a marked difference in my in case and liquid tempswith my current setup, but did essentially nothing when I was air cooling and with my first loop. The advantages vary quite a bit depending on build.


----------



## nycgtr

ciarlatano said:


> It made a marked difference in my in case and liquid tempswith my current setup, but did essentially nothing when I was air cooling and with my first loop. The advantages vary quite a bit depending on build.


Past the 3-4mm makes no more difference in my loop. I feel if I could gap the glass by a few mm it would make a huge diff.


----------



## brab

kevindd992002 said:


> Do you have the exact length of screws and spacers thickness needed for this simple ghetto mod so that the front side of the case doesn't look very ugly?


Mine is like nycgtr mentioned...4mm.
And I didn't notice any temp difference @ idle, and didn't test on load.


----------



## paskowitz

ciarlatano said:


> It made a marked difference in my in case and liquid tempswith my current setup, but did essentially nothing when I was air cooling and with my first loop. The advantages vary quite a bit depending on build.


I got a 1-2c water temp drop (constant 1000rpm fan speed). I moved mine right up to the edge of the end of the glass, about 1cm. Considering I rarely visually notice the change, it basically costs nothing and does at least "something", I'd say it is worth it.


----------



## scracy

doyll said:


> I found spacing it out that much made little to no difference in temps .. so little change I could not definitely prove temps were any lower.


I came to the same conclusion with mine, even the vented top only made a small difference in CPU temps under load.


----------



## nycgtr

scracy said:


> I came to the same conclusion with mine, even the vented top only made a small difference in CPU temps under load.


Vented top made a huge difference for me like 7-8c on extended load. Honestly, running it without the glass on one side probably does better than anything else lol. It's manageable case for like a 7700k single gpu. Once your past that forget it.


----------



## RyanBRZ

Has anyone installed a stats screen on this case? I am looking to install one over the power supply cut-out. Been looking at tons of screens but can't seem to find a good size. I'm thinking 150mm x 80mm would be perfect, preferably touch screen.

Edit: Thinking about it, I will go a little smaller but as close as possible to that size and use a black backplate.


----------



## nycgtr

RyanBRZ said:


> Has anyone installed a stats screen on this case? I am looking to install one over the power supply cut-out. Been looking at tons of screens but can't seem to find a good size. I'm thinking 150mm x 80mm would be perfect, preferably touch screen.
> 
> Edit: Thinking about it, I will go a little smaller but as close as possible to that size and use a black backplate.


Yes and its overrated. Your better off buying a aquaero and using that to display and do fan control specially if your watercooling.


----------



## RyanBRZ

nycgtr said:


> Yes and its overrated. Your better off buying a aquaero and using that to display and do fan control specially if your watercooling.


That's your opinion and that's ok. I think it's a nice touch, especially as a means of covering the power supply area since my power supply doesn't completely fill the hole. My fans/pump are controlled in BIOS so I'm good on an external controller. At $50, why not.


----------



## nycgtr

RyanBRZ said:


> That's your opinion and that's ok. I think it's a nice touch, especially as a means of covering the power supply area since my power supply doesn't completely fill the hole. My fans/pump are controlled in BIOS so I'm good on an external controller. At $50, why not.


Its doable just not worth the effort that's all. On the topic of fan control w/bios nothing comes close an aquaero. I bought asus top end boards only strictly for the fan control and its still garbage in comparison. My aquaero suggestion was made so that you could get a display and something that improves performance and functionality rather than just a display. Personally for me the aquaero has opened more board options for me in the future and allowed for finite fan/pump control without having to rely on often buggy software.

Judging from your post you also haven't done a screen mod prior, so you aren't aware of the issues it causes in windows with certain 3d applications. While it technically functions as a 3rd screen it can create issues making certain windows active and unactive. The ones you see 95% of the time using a aida sensor panel, and that can causes assorted funnies but feel free to take it as an opinion and find out.


----------



## RyanBRZ

nycgtr said:


> Its doable just not worth the effort that's all. On the topic of fan control w/bios nothing comes close an aquaero. I bought asus top end boards only strictly for the fan control and its still garbage in comparison. My aquaero suggestion was made so that you could get a display and something that improves performance and functionality rather than just a display. Personally for me the aquaero has opened more board options for me in the future and allowed for finite fan/pump control without having to rely on often buggy software.
> 
> Judging from your post you also haven't done a screen mod prior, so you aren't aware of the issues it causes in windows with certain 3d applications. While it technically functions as a 3rd screen it can create issues making certain windows active and unactive. The ones you see 95% of the time using a aida sensor panel, and that can causes assorted funnies but feel free to take it as an opinion and find out.


I hear you, I'm not saying Aquaero isn't a better option, but for the price and effort I think it's worth a shot. I'm content with my current fan/pump control in BIOS so I dont have a need for an expensive external controller. Regarding the possible issues with a third screen, yeah I guess I will see how it goes. If it doesn't work out then it doesn't work out, I can always use the screen with my raspberry pi which is what it is intended for. I thought for $50 it seemed like a cool little project.


----------



## RyanBRZ

Got the stats screen installed with Rainmeter gauges. I just redid 2 PETG lines and refilled so that's why my res is cloudy looking.


----------



## RyanBRZ

nycgtr said:


> Its doable just not worth the effort that's all. On the topic of fan control w/bios nothing comes close an aquaero. I bought asus top end boards only strictly for the fan control and its still garbage in comparison. My aquaero suggestion was made so that you could get a display and something that improves performance and functionality rather than just a display. Personally for me the aquaero has opened more board options for me in the future and allowed for finite fan/pump control without having to rely on often buggy software.
> 
> Judging from your post you also haven't done a screen mod prior, so you aren't aware of the issues it causes in windows with certain 3d applications. While it technically functions as a 3rd screen it can create issues making certain windows active and unactive. The ones you see 95% of the time using a aida sensor panel, and that can causes assorted funnies but feel free to take it as an opinion and find out.


You were right, Flanders. I'm getting an Out of range error on my main monitor when i try to play resident evil while other games work fine. To fix this I'm wondering if there is a setting I can adjust in the game or if I run my stats screen on my cpu graphics instead of my 1080 GTX


----------



## RyanBRZ

RyanBRZ said:


> You were right, Flanders. I'm getting an Out of range error on my main monitor when i try to play resident evil while other games work fine. To fix this I'm wondering if there is a setting I can adjust in the game or if I run my stats screen on my cpu graphics instead of my 1080 GTX


Fixed with these settings in the game config for anyone else who may have this issue.


Code:


FullScreenMode=false
WindowMode=Borderless


----------



## kevindd992002

I want to try selling the stock Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX top panel that I have lying around (I have the MMM modded one) locally and see if someone bites. How much does it cost brand new from Phanteks?


----------



## RyanBRZ

kevindd992002 said:


> I want to try the stock Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX top panel that I have lying around (I have the MMM modded one) locally and see if someone bites. How much does it cost brand new from Phanteks?


Do you mean you want to try selling the stock panel?


----------



## kevindd992002

RyanBRZ said:


> Do you mean you want to try selling the stock panel?


Yes, I just edited my post, sorry


----------



## doyll

kevindd992002 said:


> Yes, I just edited my post, sorry


I assumed that was why you were asking, but clarification doesn't hurt.


----------



## ciarlatano

kevindd992002 said:


> I want to try selling the stock Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX top panel that I have lying around (I have the MMM modded one) locally and see if someone bites. How much does it cost brand new from Phanteks?


I seem to recall ~$25 + shipping from Phanteks. You could always do something crazy, like ask Phanteks customer service instead of random people in a forum.


----------



## doyll

ciarlatano said:


> I seem to recall ~$25 + shipping from Phanteks. You could always do something crazy, like ask Phanteks customer service instead of random people in a forum.


But .. but .. random people on forum have bought them so if one of these random people reads this they can tell us price including shipping.


----------



## kevindd992002

Yeah and people here tend to reply faster than Phanteks themselves, at least according to my experience with the recent support I got from them.


----------



## kevindd992002

What good material do you guys recommend to block off the spaces on the rad bracket up top?


----------



## paskowitz

kevindd992002 said:


> What good material do you guys recommend to block off the spaces on the rad bracket up top?


I used neoprene with double sided tape. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FVG3CM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Doubles as sound dampening for the rest of the case. In addition to the top rad bracket, I put it on the floor of the PSU chamber and then mounted my pump and HDD on top of the neoprene. That help reduce vibrations a bit.


----------



## kevindd992002

paskowitz said:


> I used neoprene with double sided tape. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FVG3CM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Doubles as sound dampening for the rest of the case. In addition to the top rad bracket, I put it on the floor of the PSU chamber and then mounted my pump and HDD on top of the neoprene. That help reduce vibrations a bit.


I see. How about for the front panel mod, what kind and how long are the washers you used for it?


----------



## paskowitz

kevindd992002 said:


> I see. How about for the front panel mod, what kind and how long are the washers you used for it?


IIRC it's one nut and washer on each side. Thickness looks standard (not a thick or thin nut). I don't know what the length of the bolt should be. Front panel ends up being flush with the glass. I think there is a way to use one of the spare screws included in the Phanteks screws box, but I am not sure which one. You will have to experiment.


----------



## kevindd992002

paskowitz said:


> IIRC it's one nut and washer on each side. Thickness looks standard (not a thick or thin nut). I don't know what the length of the bolt should be. Front panel ends up being flush with the glass. I think there is a way to use one of the spare screws included in the Phanteks screws box, but I am not sure which one. You will have to experiment.


Ok, thanks.

Can anyone with the TG version of the Evolv ATX confirm where the LED for the HDD is? One of the front panel connectors is the HDD LED but as far as I know both top and front LEDs are RGB LED's that are controlled by a built-in controller.


----------



## ciarlatano

paskowitz said:


> IIRC it's one nut and washer on each side. Thickness looks standard (not a thick or thin nut). I don't know what the length of the bolt should be. Front panel ends up being flush with the glass. I think there is a way to use one of the spare screws included in the Phanteks screws box, but I am not sure which one. You will have to experiment.


Yes, there are screws in the kit that work perfectly, They are longer and only threaded at the tips. I used rubber grommets rather than washers for the spacer, simply because I had them handy.


----------



## kevindd992002

ciarlatano said:


> paskowitz said:
> 
> 
> 
> IIRC it's one nut and washer on each side. Thickness looks standard (not a thick or thin nut). I don't know what the length of the bolt should be. Front panel ends up being flush with the glass. I think there is a way to use one of the spare screws included in the Phanteks screws box, but I am not sure which one. You will have to experiment.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, there are screws in the kit that work perfectly, They are longer and only threaded at the tips. I used rubber grommets rather than washers for the spacer, simply because I had them handy.
Click to expand...

Would you mind taking a pic of your case's front panel mod for me? Thanks.


----------



## ciarlatano

kevindd992002 said:


> Would you mind taking a pic of your case's front panel mod for me? Thanks.


 @doyll may have a link to the posts that show it on hand.


----------



## S4vant

Hi guys, I've been reviewing this thread as well as a few of the youtube videos of people trying to fix the airflow problems on this case. Getting a case is the last component I need for my new build, and its a toss up between the Evolv TG and the new Fractal R6 TG.
My question to you guys is "Just how bad is the airflow in this case?"
I can pick up a new one at the moment for $145, or wait a week or so for the R6 (and probably pay $25 more).
If i space out the front panel by a half inch to be flush with the front of the glass (or further), block off the open spaces on fan mount panel, will I be ok?
My build is not crazy, it will be an 8700k on a Maximus X Hero, cooled by a 280 rad. Just one GPU. Not going for a crazy OC, maybe 4.8 or so, and if I want to go higher I might delid.

Any help would be appreciated. If I go with the Evolv, I would have to place the order today (the EBAY 20% deal).


----------



## ciarlatano

S4vant said:


> Hi guys, I've been reviewing this thread as well as a few of the youtube videos of people trying to fix the airflow problems on this case. Getting a case is the last component I need for my new build, and its a toss up between the Evolv TG and the new Fractal R6 TG.
> My question to you guys is "Just how bad is the airflow in this case?"
> I can pick up a new one at the moment for $145, or wait a week or so for the R6 (and probably pay $25 more).
> If i space out the front panel by a half inch to be flush with the front of the glass (or further), block off the open spaces on fan mount panel, will I be ok?
> My build is not crazy, it will be an 8700k on a Maximus X Hero, cooled by a 280 rad. Just one GPU. Not going for a crazy OC, maybe 4.8 or so, and if I want to go higher I might delid.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated. If I go with the Evolv, I would have to place the order today (the EBAY 20% deal).


If you build around the case, it has no issues. Having a rad that works well with low airflow (like an HWL GTS series), doing the proper sealing at the top if you top mount the rad, etc. goes a long way. It is not so much that the airflow is bad, it is that many users try to cram it full of components that don't coincide with the nature of the case.


----------



## ExcellentAmp

S4vant said:


> Hi guys, I've been reviewing this thread as well as a few of the youtube videos of people trying to fix the airflow problems on this case. Getting a case is the last component I need for my new build, and its a toss up between the Evolv TG and the new Fractal R6 TG.
> My question to you guys is "Just how bad is the airflow in this case?"
> I can pick up a new one at the moment for $145, or wait a week or so for the R6 (and probably pay $25 more).
> If i space out the front panel by a half inch to be flush with the front of the glass (or further), block off the open spaces on fan mount panel, will I be ok?
> My build is not crazy, it will be an 8700k on a Maximus X Hero, cooled by a 280 rad. Just one GPU. Not going for a crazy OC, maybe 4.8 or so, and if I want to go higher I might delid.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated. If I go with the Evolv, I would have to place the order today (the EBAY 20% deal).


Are you planning to cool the GPU as well? Not sure if a 280 will be enough even with modifications to the chassis, especially if you're aiming for a quieter rig. The R6 has a bit more flexibility as far as radiator capacity is concerned and imo, better airflow capability but damn that Evolv TG is a sexy beast.


----------



## doyll

S4vant said:


> Hi guys, I've been reviewing this thread as well as a few of the youtube videos of people trying to fix the airflow problems on this case. Getting a case is the last component I need for my new build, and its a toss up between the Evolv TG and the new Fractal R6 TG.
> My question to you guys is "Just how bad is the airflow in this case?"
> I can pick up a new one at the moment for $145, or wait a week or so for the R6 (and probably pay $25 more).
> If i space out the front panel by a half inch to be flush with the front of the glass (or further), block off the open spaces on fan mount panel, will I be ok?
> My build is not crazy, it will be an 8700k on a Maximus X Hero, cooled by a 280 rad. Just one GPU. Not going for a crazy OC, maybe 4.8 or so, and if I want to go higher I might delid.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated. If I go with the Evolv, I would have to place the order today (the EBAY 20% deal).


What is the cooling system you have that uses your 280mm radiator? If it's a CLC the top does not have enough vent area to flow the air a 280mm CLC radiator uses .. and using it as a front intake means all the intake will be pre-heated by the heat being released by radiator. I love my Evolv ATX, but mine is all air cooled, and even then it needs all the airflow 2x 140mm front intakes can move .. so much so I wish it had a bottom intake like Luxe & Pro for a 3rd 140mm intake. Evolv is not really designed for water cooling. I much prefer the airflow of my Enthoo Luxe (same as Enthoo Pro). Evolv ATX is same basic case frame as Enthoo Pro M. Define R6 is a better case design, but if you go with it you will need to buy at least 2x good intake fans for the front, I would get 3 and have one in the bottom as well.

Have you looked at the Enthoo Luxe and Enthoo Pro cases?


----------



## S4vant

ExcellentAmp said:


> Are you planning to cool the GPU as well? Not sure if a 280 will be enough even with modifications to the chassis, especially if you're aiming for a quieter rig. The R6 has a bit more flexibility as far as radiator capacity is concerned and imo, better airflow capability but damn that Evolv TG is a sexy beast.


At the moment I will not be cooling the GPU additionally. Possibly will if I upgrade to the next gen GPUs in a few years.

Yeah, I love the look of the Evolv TG, and the flexibility of the R6 is great too....but $145 with free shipping from Newegg's ebay store for the Evolv TG is almost too much to pass up...I don't think its ever been that low.


----------



## nycgtr

S4vant said:


> At the moment I will not be cooling the GPU additionally. Possibly will if I upgrade to the next gen GPUs in a few years.
> 
> Yeah, I love the look of the Evolv TG, and the flexibility of the R6 is great too....but $145 with free shipping from Newegg's ebay store for the Evolv TG is almost too much to pass up...I don't think its ever been that low.


It was that low at one point last year. I have an evolv tg. I've also done way more with it than I should have as well. I have seen the r6 in person. I don't have one but I'd get a r6 over the evolv. It's just a better thought out case out the box all around. The evolv is an old case now at this point. I would not get the evolv over the r6.

Without utterly butching the case and strapping parts on externally, I don't think anyone else has stuffed more hardware into an evolv other than me in this thread. It's not horrible for single gpu and mainstream gpu but that's the limit really. Once you go past that even mods, optimized rads and fans wont save you with the glass on. Temps would result in what a slightly below avg loop would land you.

For reference my stuffed evolv


----------



## ExcellentAmp

nycgtr said:


> It was that low at one point last year. I have an evolv tg. I've also done way more with it than I should have as well. I have seen the r6 in person. I don't have one but I'd get a r6 over the evolv. It's just a better thought out case out the box all around. The evolv is an old case now at this point. I would not get the evolv over the r6.
> 
> Without utterly butching the case and strapping parts on externally, I don't think anyone else has stuffed more hardware into an evolv other than me in this thread. It's not horrible for single gpu and mainstream gpu but that's the limit really. Once you go past that even mods, optimized rads and fans wont save you with the glass on. Temps would result in what a slightly below avg loop would land you.
> 
> For reference my stuffed evolv


One of the best looking Evolv TG water-cooled builds I've seen. Kudos @nycgtr


----------



## RyanBRZ

The case is definitely tight, I bought mine before I knew I was going with a custom loop so I rolled with it. While I'm happy with my build, if I could do it over again I'd probably buy an open type of case/chassis.


----------



## S4vant

nycgtr said:


> It was that low at one point last year. I have an evolv tg. I've also done way more with it than I should have as well. I have seen the r6 in person. I don't have one but I'd get a r6 over the evolv. It's just a better thought out case out the box all around. The evolv is an old case now at this point. I would not get the evolv over the r6.
> 
> Without utterly butching the case and strapping parts on externally, I don't think anyone else has stuffed more hardware into an evolv other than me in this thread. It's not horrible for single gpu and mainstream gpu but that's the limit really. Once you go past that even mods, optimized rads and fans wont save you with the glass on. Temps would result in what a slightly below avg loop would land you.
> 
> For reference my stuffed evolv


Awesome build! I might go custom loop down the line, but for now I'm just going to run an AIO. Single GPU (1080 at the moment), and doubt I would ever go to SLI.
I'm going to OC, but again not going to go crazy with that until I delid the 8700k. I know I probably asked my questions in the wrong subforum since I'm not going CLC, but this thread is BY FAR, the most informative on the Evolv!
BTW, I pulled the trigger on the evolv. Got tired of waiting for the R6 Blackout TG to arrive stateside.
Thanks for everyone's input!


----------



## S4vant

RyanBRZ said:


> The case is definitely tight, I bought mine before I knew I was going with a custom loop so I rolled with it. While I'm happy with my build, if I could do it over again I'd probably buy an open type of case/chassis.


 @RyanBRZ, is the stats screen running as a 2nd screen?


----------



## ciarlatano

S4vant said:


> nycgtr said:
> 
> 
> 
> It was that low at one point last year. I have an evolv tg. I've also done way more with it than I should have as well. I have seen the r6 in person. I don't have one but I'd get a r6 over the evolv. It's just a better thought out case out the box all around. The evolv is an old case now at this point. I would not get the evolv over the r6.
> 
> Without utterly butching the case and strapping parts on externally, I don't think anyone else has stuffed more hardware into an evolv other than me in this thread. It's not horrible for single gpu and mainstream gpu but that's the limit really. Once you go past that even mods, optimized rads and fans wont save you with the glass on. Temps would result in what a slightly below avg loop would land you.
> 
> For reference my stuffed evolv
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome build! I might go custom loop down the line, but for now I'm just going to run an AIO. Single GPU (1080 at the moment), and doubt I would ever go to SLI.
> I'm going to OC, but again not going to go crazy with that until I delid the 8700k. I know I probably asked my questions in the wrong subforum since I'm not going CLC, but this thread is BY FAR, the most informative on the Evolv!
> BTW, I pulled the trigger on the evolv. Got tired of waiting for the R6 Blackout TG to arrive stateside.
> Thanks for everyone's input!
Click to expand...

Are you doing the Swiftech or EK AiO?


----------



## RyanBRZ

S4vant said:


> @RyanBRZ, is the stats screen running as a 2nd screen?


Third screen, but same idea


----------



## S4vant

RyanBRZ said:


> Third screen, but same idea


Do you have any issues with resolution scaling in Windows?


----------



## RyanBRZ

S4vant said:


> Do you have any issues with resolution scaling in Windows?


I had some screen issues with RE7 and Evil Within 1, both of which I fixed in the game settings.


----------



## harrisonk

So... has this been discussed? It looks like Phanteks might actually be releasing an official vented top/front panel under the name "Flow Edition".

https://www.ocaholic.ch/modules/smartsection/item.php?itemid=4137

EDIT:

Okay, it looks like it might not be an official release product. Seems as though this is something that CaseKing is doing post-production: https://www.caseking.de/en/phanteks...-tower-tempered-glass-gun-metal-geph-080.html


----------



## nycgtr

Looks more like the "shot up" edition to me. Meh


----------



## RyanBRZ

Evolv Honeycomb Edition

They should take notes from ModMyMods


----------



## ciarlatano

nycgtr said:


> Looks more like the "shot up" edition to me. Meh





RyanBRZ said:


> Evolv Honeycomb Edition
> 
> They should take notes from ModMyMods


Agreed. This is not one of the better designs for this.


----------



## paskowitz

S4vant said:


> Hi guys, I've been reviewing this thread as well as a few of the youtube videos of people trying to fix the airflow problems on this case. Getting a case is the last component I need for my new build, and its a toss up between the Evolv TG and the new Fractal R6 TG.
> My question to you guys is "Just how bad is the airflow in this case?"
> I can pick up a new one at the moment for $145, or wait a week or so for the R6 (and probably pay $25 more).
> If i space out the front panel by a half inch to be flush with the front of the glass (or further), block off the open spaces on fan mount panel, will I be ok?
> My build is not crazy, it will be an 8700k on a Maximus X Hero, cooled by a 280 rad. Just one GPU. Not going for a crazy OC, maybe 4.8 or so, and if I want to go higher I might delid.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated. If I go with the Evolv, I would have to place the order today (the EBAY 20% deal).


The long and short of it is the Evolv TG is a fine case for mainstream hardware. It isn't a case for _everyone_, but it can certainly be a case for most people. Also, IMO, it is still the best looking case <$200. 

With the mods you mentioned, it should be more than fine. In your situation 280mm AIO, I believe, you will have no issues with airflow. I would put one fan in the back and if you don't mind negative air pressure in your case 2-3 fans in the top (making sure to close off any open areas). 

The real issues with the case start once you cram a custom loop in there to cool high wattage components. Phanteks wasn't not catering to that market wihen they designed the Evolv (what is frustrating is they were so close and the rest of the case is so nice). With that said, I have a "crammed" custom loop in my Evolv and performance is great (I did the top and front mods plus sealing gaps. I also only have 350-450w of 4790K/980Ti and not 1000w+ of X#99/SLI to cool). 

Sorry for the potato pictures, but you get the idea.


----------



## Strokin3s

Guys... I need some help. I have a 360 gts on top and im trying to put a gts 240 in front but im having trouble getting the holes to line up in the slits of the phanteks bracket. I have attached an image. Please help! 


https://imgur.com/AUKyKta


----------



## RyanBRZ

Strokin3s said:


> Guys... I need some help. I have a 360 gts on top and im trying to put a gts 240 in front but im having trouble getting the holes to line up in the slits of the phanteks bracket. I have attached an image. Please help!
> 
> 
> https://imgur.com/AUKyKta


Had a similar problem with my 360/240 Barrow rads. What i did is put a screw in one side loosely and then pushed the fan over while feeling for/turning the screw i was trying to get in. It eventually caught then i did the same for the remaining and then tightened everything down.


----------



## Strokin3s

RyanBRZ said:


> Had a similar problem with my 360/240 Barrow rads. What i did is put a screw in one side loosely and then pushed the fan over while feeling for/turning the screw i was trying to get in. It eventually caught then i did the same for the remaining and then tightened everything down.


Darn... I was hoping I wouldn't have to do that. Wouldn't the holes / screws become deformed a bit ?


----------



## RyanBRZ

Strokin3s said:


> Darn... I was hoping I wouldn't have to do that. Wouldn't the holes / screws become deformed a bit ?


Well think about it, it won't magically just fit perfect. You either need to do this or use a drill to make it fit. I recently took my loop apart to rma my mobo and the rad and fans look completely normal with no damage


----------



## kevindd992002

Is this an issue with the case itself or the rad? I have a 280 GTS installed in front and never had issues with misalignment of screw holes.


----------



## Strokin3s

kevindd992002 said:


> Is this an issue with the case itself or the rad? I have a 280 GTS installed in front and never had issues with misalignment of screw holes.


Honestly not sure.. I'm thinking its an issue with the case? Has anyone else experienced this issue?


----------



## ciarlatano

Strokin3s said:


> Honestly not sure.. I'm thinking its an issue with the case? Has anyone else experienced this issue?


I have put a variety of 240 and 280mm rads, as well as 120 and 140mm fans in the front of ~5-6 Evolv ATX and never ran into any fitment or alignment issues.


----------



## Strokin3s

ciarlatano said:


> I have put a variety of 240 and 280mm rads, as well as 120 and 140mm fans in the front of ~5-6 Evolv ATX and never ran into any fitment or alignment issues.


You have the 240 gts? can you take a look at the pic and see if maybe im doing something wrong?

https://imgur.com/AUKyKta


----------



## ciarlatano

Strokin3s said:


> You have the 240 gts? can you take a look at the pic and see if maybe im doing something wrong?
> 
> https://imgur.com/AUKyKta


In that pic, it looks to me like your chassis got slightly bent somehow. Is the case new? If so, I would contact the seller and ask for a replacement. Shipping damage, maybe?


----------



## Strokin3s

ciarlatano said:


> In that pic, it looks to me like your chassis got slightly bent somehow. Is the case new? If so, I would contact the seller and ask for a replacement. Shipping damage, maybe?


I've had it for a while but I doubt it's bent. I'm looking at it from all angles... Doesn't look bent : /


----------



## Strokin3s

Okay -

I was able to get the radiator / fans in on the front! Thanks for all the help guys...

But now I'm having an issue finding the best way to mount my heatkiller tube 150 . 

Is anyone else using a heatkiller tube in the phanteks case? 

Please message me / reply if you do!


----------



## B3MMi

harrisonk said:


> So... has this been discussed? It looks like Phanteks might actually be releasing an official vented top/front panel under the name "Flow Edition".
> 
> https://www.ocaholic.ch/modules/smartsection/item.php?itemid=4137
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Okay, it looks like it might not be an official release product. Seems as though this is something that CaseKing is doing post-production: https://www.caseking.de/en/phanteks...-tower-tempered-glass-gun-metal-geph-080.html


IMO that looks awesome. I'd love to get both, the top and the front panel.


----------



## B3MMi

I've got 7700K @4.8GHz @1.25V and GTX 1080 TI. GTS 360 at the top with 3 Corsair ML fans. There's 2 Noctua NF-A14 fans in the front and one in the rear of the case. Front is intake and top & rear exhaust. 
GPU needs more air. What do you guys think, should I change the rear fan to intake?


----------



## ciarlatano

B3MMi said:


> I've got 7700K @4.8GHz @1.25V and GTX 1080 TI. GTS 360 at the top with 3 Corsair ML fans. There's 2 Noctua NF-A14 fans in the front and one in the rear of the case. Front is intake and top & rear exhaust.
> GPU needs more air. What do you guys think, should I change the rear fan to intake?


When I tried turning around the rear fan with a 360 up top and no top mad, all it did was suck in the rad exhaust making the situation worse. I also did not have good results using NF-A14s as intakes in the case, and found that the Phanteks F140MP and SP both performed quite a bit better. You can also gain some intake doing the simple mod to space the front panel out slightly - but the pics appear to show you have done that.


----------



## B3MMi

ciarlatano said:


> When I tried turning around the rear fan with a 360 up top and no top mad, all it did was suck in the rad exhaust making the situation worse. I also did not have good results using NF-A14s as intakes in the case, and found that the Phanteks F140MP and SP both performed quite a bit better. You can also gain some intake doing the simple mod to space the front panel out slightly - but the pics appear to show you have done that.


You're right, I did the front panel mod. Also I took the mesh grill out from the top panel and taped all the holes from the rad bracket. I also taped the front filter a bit. Do you mean that front and rear should be intakes? 

I found that those Phanteks stock fans didn't have high enough max RPM and my 1080 TI was starving for air. I'm not even sure if Noctua fans helped that much though.


----------



## ciarlatano

B3MMi said:


> You're right, I did the front panel mod. Also I took the mesh grill out from the top panel and taped all the holes from the rad bracket. I also taped the front filter a bit. Do you mean that front and rear should be intakes?
> 
> I found that those Phanteks stock fans didn't have high enough max RPM and my 1080 TI was starving for air. I'm not even sure if Noctua fans helped that much though.


I was saying that when I tested the rear as an intake, it was sucking in the rad exhaust which is expelled right above it. This made for higher in case temps an a lot of dust. But....every build is differen. It's four screws, so will only take you a minute to try it.


----------



## Strokin3s

Has anyone used a heatkiller 150 tube in this case? I really need some tips. Please help!


----------



## ciarlatano

Strokin3s said:


> Has anyone used a heatkiller 150 tube in this case? I really need some tips. Please help!


Post pics of your issue, it may be easier to solve with a visual.


----------



## nycgtr

B3MMi said:


> I've got 7700K @4.8GHz @1.25V and GTX 1080 TI. GTS 360 at the top with 3 Corsair ML fans. There's 2 Noctua NF-A14 fans in the front and one in the rear of the case. Front is intake and top & rear exhaust.
> GPU needs more air. What do you guys think, should I change the rear fan to intake?


I moved my wifes rig into my old evolv. It's got a 7700k to a gts 360 as well. I even have that gpu you have as well. Tbh you really just need a block. I also have a ti hybrid and I swapped it for that in the case and it works a hell of a lot better.


----------



## Strokin3s

https://imgur.com/a/egSDW

Sure. This is the visual. I'm trying to get the basic mounting kit to line up with the holes on the phanteks case but it doesn't align properly... 

Also is my radiator placement correct? should it be on the outside of the bracket? Maybe that would give me more room to try and use the hole all the way to the right? (I cant use the right hole because the radiator wont let me. 

Thanks!


----------



## kevindd992002

Strokin3s said:


> https://imgur.com/a/egSDW
> 
> Sure. This is the visual. I'm trying to get the basic mounting kit to line up with the holes on the phanteks case but it doesn't align properly...
> 
> Also is my radiator placement correct? should it be on the outside of the bracket? Maybe that would give me more room to try and use the hole all the way to the right? (I cant use the right hole because the radiator wont let me.
> 
> Thanks!


Your radiator placement is correct. You want the fans on the outside pushing air in.

As for the reservoir bracket, if they don't line up correctly then you'd have to drill holes. I drilled a total of 5 holes to mount my Aqualis reservoir like so:


----------



## Avant Garde

What do you guys recommend if I want to go with AIO in this case? Top 360? Front 240? Top 240?


----------



## ciarlatano

Avant Garde said:


> What do you guys recommend if I want to go with AIO in this case? Top 360? Front 240? Top 240?


Depends, are you going with the EK or waiting for the new Swiftech?


----------



## TruGuru

I went with a 360 on top 280 up front (Acid Burn build log in my profile), you technically could fit 2 x 360 but will need to mod the top for fan placement as stated by someone previously. So if you like the 3 ring fans along the top no, if you do not care about RGB fans being visible. then you can fit 2 360s. remember poor airflow on the top needs to be addressed, as well as pulling the front panel away from the front by about an inch to increase airflow there as well. I used servos to open the top of the case for exhaust and used old CPU standoffs to mount the front plate for better airflow. both can also be replaced with machined slots but I wanted to keep the case looking as stock as possible.

http://www.overclock.net/forum/18083-build-logs/1638277-build-log-acid-burn.html


----------



## Avant Garde

ciarlatano said:


> Depends, are you going with the EK or waiting for the new Swiftech?


Which one from Swiftech? H320 X2 Prestige? I would be ok with NZXT X72 too


----------



## ciarlatano

Avant Garde said:


> ciarlatano said:
> 
> 
> 
> Depends, are you going with the EK or waiting for the new Swiftech?
> 
> 
> 
> Which one from Swiftech? H320 X2 Prestige? I would be ok with NZXT X72 too
Click to expand...

New Swiftech line should be out soon. And if you are going with a CLC like an NZXT/Corsair, that is a different proposition in every way. They are grossly inefficient and require ridiculous amounts of airflow to work, the best mounting is "left on the store shelf".


----------



## Avant Garde

Sure, I get all that but I'm really not trying to break any OC record. I'm looking for completely hasle-free CLC that will do a GOOD job while remain pretty and simple. I don't have time to mess around with tubing, changing the liquid and reatach everything everytime I change GPU for instance, that's a no go for me. I'm going with less resistance line here


----------



## ExcellentAmp

ciarlatano said:


> the best mounting is "left on the store shelf".


LOL!!


----------



## ciarlatano

Avant Garde said:


> Sure, I get all that but I'm really not trying to break any OC record. I'm looking for completely hasle-free CLC that will do a GOOD job while remain pretty and simple. I don't have time to mess around with tubing, changing the liquid and reatach everything everytime I change GPU for instance, that's a no go for me. I'm going with less resistance line here /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


All OC aside, the Evolv ATX has restricted airflow that tends to accentuate all of the bad points of a CLC. That is why I said it is completely different.


----------



## B3MMi

nycgtr said:


> I moved my wifes rig into my old evolv. It's got a 7700k to a gts 360 as well. I even have that gpu you have as well. Tbh you really just need a block. I also have a ti hybrid and I swapped it for that in the case and it works a hell of a lot better.


Using a fan as intake in the rear of the case makes horrible noise. But at least it gives like 2°C improvement in temps.

Would the single GTS 360 be enough for 7700K and 1080 TI? I'll just order a block for the GPU if that's enough.

Also I wonder if NVIDIA is going to release new GPUs soon since I'd like to get a GPU with lower TDP. I bet then GTS 360 would be enough.


----------



## nycgtr

B3MMi said:


> Using a fan as intake in the rear of the case makes horrible noise. But at least it gives like 2°C improvement in temps.
> 
> Would the single GTS 360 be enough for 7700K and 1080 TI? I'll just order a block for the GPU if that's enough.
> 
> Also I wonder if NVIDIA is going to release new GPUs soon since I'd like to get a GPU with lower TDP. I bet then GTS 360 would be enough.


This is a titan x pascal and a 6700k on a 1 gts. I can tell you in my experience it performs similar to having 2 gts with the same heatload. Having the already semi restricted intake dumping hot air into the case doesn't help. I had enough configurations in this case to pretty much say this is your best bet. 1 360. If you need more than 1 360 you need a different case.


----------



## ExcellentAmp

B3MMi said:


> Using a fan as intake in the rear of the case makes horrible noise. But at least it gives like 2°C improvement in temps.
> 
> Would the single GTS 360 be enough for 7700K and 1080 TI? I'll just order a block for the GPU if that's enough.
> 
> Also I wonder if NVIDIA is going to release new GPUs soon since I'd like to get a GPU with lower TDP. I bet then GTS 360 would be enough.


TBH, I have a second rig that has a 6700k and 1080 in a Define S case (not the greatest of airflow cases but acceptable). I initially went with a single GTS 360 and my gpu temps were in the mid 50s. I added another GTS 360 and got the temps down in the mid to upper 40s. 

The tdp on my MSI 1080 is 180 watts. I noticed that some 1080ti(s) are 250 watts. Xtremerigs radiator roundup found that the GTS 360 can dissipate ~290 watts with fan speeds at 1300 rpms. If you couple that with the 7700K which is known to run toasty, you may be a bit undersized for radiator capacity.

Here's the link to their article in case you hadn't seen it. Very informative.


----------



## ExcellentAmp

nycgtr said:


> This is a titan x pascal and a 6700k on a 1 gts. I can tell you in my experience it performs similar to having 2 gts with the same heatload. Having the already semi restricted intake dumping hot air into the case doesn't help. I had enough configurations in this case to pretty much say this is your best bet. 1 360. If you need more than 1 360 you need a different case.


What kind of temps are you getting with this config, if you don't mind me asking. I know everyone's idea of an efficient loop is subjective.


----------



## nycgtr

ExcellentAmp said:


> What kind of temps are you getting with this config, if you don't mind me asking. I know everyone's idea of an efficient loop is subjective.


Ambient of 25 last night when I finished.

GPU was hitting 45c looping valley after 3hrs, clocks stick around 2000 +500 on mem
Cpu in prime 95 is in the 60s. Minor oc to 4.5.

I've had every possible config in this case tbh lol. Including dual loops.


----------



## B3MMi

I'm not really concerned about my 7700K since it's delidded and runs below 65C. The most I got during gaming was like 61 when the air in my case was really hot (thanks to the GPU) and less than 65C in LinX (AVX). I'm just concerned about GPU and water temps.


----------



## ExcellentAmp

nycgtr said:


> Ambient of 25 last night when I finished.
> 
> GPU was hitting 45c looping valley after 3hrs, clocks stick around 2000 +500 on mem
> Cpu in prime 95 is in the 60s. Minor oc to 4.5.
> 
> I've had every possible config in this case tbh lol. Including dual loops.


Thanks for the info. 

Were you the one who switched from the EK block to Phanteks for your gpu? I apologize if I'm confusing you with someone else but I remember reading their gpu temps dropped a handful of degrees from making that change.


----------



## nycgtr

ExcellentAmp said:


> Thanks for the info.
> 
> Were you the one who switched from the EK block to Phanteks for your gpu? I apologize if I'm confusing you with someone else but I remember reading their gpu temps dropped a handful of degrees from making that change.


Yeah I switched from ek on my titan Xp's to bitspower and to phanteks on my strix 1080tis.


My wife's machine is usually from my spare parts bin. Hence the use of EK parts, I got a lot of EK stuff from before I knew better.


----------



## B3MMi

nycgtr said:


> Yeah I switched from ek on my titan Xp's to bitspower and to phanteks on my strix 1080tis.
> 
> 
> My wife's machine is usually from my spare parts bin. Hence the use of EK parts, I got a lot of EK stuff from before I knew better.


What's better in Bitspower blocks when compared to EK ones? I'm thinking of buying black acetal block for my FTW3.


----------



## nycgtr

B3MMi said:


> What's better in Bitspower blocks when compared to EK ones? I'm thinking of buying black acetal block for my FTW3.


Thicker acyrlic, spare orings, spare standoff, acutal stopping fittings and not some lame plug, best thermal pads on the market vs the total garbage EK gives. The ti series for bitspower is just better performing. I can't say the same for the 1080 series but yeah this gen for sure. Also it works with the stock ftw backplate so your not shelling out 40 bucks for a piece of metal.

As someone who used strictly ek gpu blocks since 2009, once you try the other brands you will never buy an ek gpu block again. EK isn't what it use to be and these days I can just see the cost cutting cheapness in just about everything they make. Cost cutting that doesn't go back to the consumer nor its R&D just to line up the marketing pockets.


----------



## B3MMi

nycgtr said:


> Thicker acyrlic, spare orings, spare standoff, acutal stopping fittings and not some lame plug, best thermal pads on the market vs the total garbage EK gives. The ti series for bitspower is just better performing. I can't say the same for the 1080 series but yeah this gen for sure. Also it works with the stock ftw backplate so your not shelling out 40 bucks for a piece of metal.
> 
> As someone who used strictly ek gpu blocks since 2009, once you try the other brands you will never buy an ek gpu block again. EK isn't what it use to be and these days I can just see the cost cutting cheapness in just about everything they make. Cost cutting that doesn't go back to the consumer nor its R&D just to line up the marketing pockets.


Damn. I only found one Bitspower block for FTW3 and that's acrylic. There wasn't even decent resolution pics of it... Don't really know what to buy now. This is getting complicated :S


----------



## nycgtr

B3MMi said:


> Damn. I only found one Bitspower block for FTW3 and that's acrylic. There wasn't even decent resolution pics of it... Don't really know what to buy now. This is getting complicated :S


Yea it only comes in acrylic. You also have the option of getting the block from EVGA. They do have a hydrocopper block for it that they sell sep.


----------



## springs113

Isn't the Hydrocopper from Swiftech though or did EVGA buy that out?


----------



## B3MMi

nycgtr said:


> Yea it only comes in acrylic. You also have the option of getting the block from EVGA. They do have a hydrocopper block for it that they sell sep.


If I decide to buy the EK one, which thermal pads should I order for it? Apparently Bitspower block has Fujipoly thermal pad(s).


----------



## ExcellentAmp

B3MMi said:


> If I decide to buy the EK one, which thermal pads should I order for it? Apparently Bitspower block has Fujipoly thermal pad(s).


It's my understanding that Fujipoly makes some of the best thermal pads. The Thermal Grizzly Minus 8 are pretty decent too (I use these). Which ever you choose, make sure you buy enough of the different thickness pads. I believe you'll need 0.5mm and 1.0mm thick pads.:thumb:


----------



## Andrew LB

I would have just gone with a block that is machined properly as to not require thermal pads except just one small strip for the VRMs. I decided to check out the bitspower installation pdf and was shocked at how many pieces you have to lay out. Makes me glad i went with an Aquacomputer Kryographics Pascal block. You can get the aquacomputer block AND the actively cooled backplate for the same price as just the bitspower block.


----------



## ExcellentAmp

Andrew LB said:


> I would have just gone with a block that is machined properly as to not require thermal pads except just one small strip for the VRMs. I decided to check out the bitspower installation pdf and was shocked at how many pieces you have to lay out. Makes me glad i went with an Aquacomputer Kryographics Pascal block. You can get the aquacomputer block AND the actively cooled backplate for the same price as just the bitspower block.


Is the Aquacomputer block compatible with the FTW3? I believe that's what the OP has.


----------



## B3MMi

ExcellentAmp said:


> It's my understanding that Fujipoly makes some of the best thermal pads. The Thermal Grizzly Minus 8 are pretty decent too (I use these). Which ever you choose, make sure you buy enough of the different thickness pads. I believe you'll need 0.5mm and 1.0mm thick pads.:thumb:


Can't find where to order the Fujipoly pads for reasonable price. Amazon has them but it would cost me like 50€ for the pads + shipping. Seems like they don't sell them in Europe.


----------



## ExcellentAmp

B3MMi said:


> Can't find where to order the Fujipoly pads for reasonable price. Amazon has them but it would cost me like 50€ for the pads + shipping. Seems like they don't sell them in Europe.


The Thermal Grizzly pads aren't cheap either. I purchased the 100 x 100 x 0.5 and the 100 x 100 x 1.0 and paid over $50 US. I'm an enthusiast so I don't mind trying different products. We don't water cool our PCs to save money


----------



## nycgtr

B3MMi said:


> Can't find where to order the Fujipoly pads for reasonable price. Amazon has them but it would cost me like 50€ for the pads + shipping. Seems like they don't sell them in Europe.


Honestly, I would just get the bitspower unless its very important to have black. In which case wrap your block cover. Here are a few things I have had issues with EK Gpu blocks. Missing stand offs (bitspower has an extra included so you dont have to go thru EK RMA). The oil EK uses on the Orings starts leaving this residue around it that is extremely annoying and requires a tear down to clean up. It's on all their blocks. If you ever owned a NON ek block you wouldn't buy another EK block. The quality in hand is just sup par. Now it may get the job done but at the end of the day the price you pay doesn't save you any. IF you need a black block. EVGA has the hydrocopper like I've stated. 

https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=400-HC-5699-B1

I am pretty sure swiftech makes them for EVGA.

I know I am coming off as a total EK hater lol. Just look at my evolv most recent post. It's all ek pretty much outside of the fittings of which only some are. Out of every EK component in that build I can tell you where cost was cut and issues I've had with it. I owned too much of the product and now I just refuse to buy it if there's an alternative. The only way we are going to get EK to up their game is if we vote with our wallets. The mindshare is too strong from bought out yters to sponsored builds left and right. It really comes down to one purchase at a time. Last year was watercool's best sales year which is a good trend. Reading posts across forums, discords I can see the light is coming thru. It's in everyone's best interest if the bar is set higher.


----------



## B3MMi

nycgtr said:


> Honestly, I would just get the bitspower unless its very important to have black. In which case wrap your block cover. Here are a few things I have had issues with EK Gpu blocks. Missing stand offs (bitspower has an extra included so you dont have to go thru EK RMA). The oil EK uses on the Orings starts leaving this residue around it that is extremely annoying and requires a tear down to clean up. It's on all their blocks. If you ever owned a NON ek block you wouldn't buy another EK block. The quality in hand is just sup par. Now it may get the job done but at the end of the day the price you pay doesn't save you any. IF you need a black block. EVGA has the hydrocopper like I've stated.
> 
> https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=400-HC-5699-B1
> 
> I am pretty sure swiftech makes them for EVGA.
> 
> I know I am coming off as a total EK hater lol. Just look at my evolv most recent post. It's all ek pretty much outside of the fittings of which only some are. Out of every EK component in that build I can tell you where cost was cut and issues I've had with it. I owned too much of the product and now I just refuse to buy it if there's an alternative. The only way we are going to get EK to up their game is if we vote with our wallets. The mindshare is too strong from bought out yters to sponsored builds left and right. It really comes down to one purchase at a time. Last year was watercool's best sales year which is a good trend. Reading posts across forums, discords I can see the light is coming thru. It's in everyone's best interest if the bar is set higher.


Thanks for the info. I love the minimalistic look EK blocks have. It seems I don't get that with any other blocks on the market. Hydro copper would be fine I guess but I still prefer the EK one. It would cost me 190€ + 20€ shipping. 

I only found one retailer selling the Bitspower block and that was performance-pcs. The block itself costs about 195$ but shipping to Finland would cost me over 45$. 

Also the shipping from Amazon for the Fujipoly pads turned out to be over 75€ which is ridiculous.

This turned out to be quite a mess...


----------



## B3MMi

ExcellentAmp said:


> The Thermal Grizzly pads aren't cheap either. I purchased the 100 x 100 x 0.5 and the 100 x 100 x 1.0 and paid over $50 US. I'm an enthusiast so I don't mind trying different products. We don't water cool our PCs to save money


I can get 2 pieces of Thermal Grizzly 120 x 20 x 0,5mm for 12€ and 2 pieces of the same size except 1mm thickness for 14€ + free shipping from Finland. 100 x 100 ones would be over 50€. If only I could get Fujipoly pads from inside Europe at decent shipping costs.

I don't mind trying different products if I know them to be good . I just don't want to be the one testing them hahah.


----------



## B3MMi

ExcellentAmp said:


> Is the Aquacomputer block compatible with the FTW3? I believe that's what the OP has.


You're right, that's what I have. I didn't find Aquacomputer block that's compatible with FTW3.


----------



## ciarlatano

B3MMi said:


> Thanks for the info. I love the minimalistic look EK blocks have. It seems I don't get that with any other blocks on the market. Hydro copper would be fine I guess but I still prefer the EK one. It would cost me 190€ + 20€ shipping.
> 
> I only found one retailer selling the Bitspower block and that was performance-pcs. The block itself costs about 195$ but shipping to Finland would cost me over 45$.
> 
> Also the shipping from Amazon for the Fujipoly pads turned out to be over 75€ which is ridiculous.
> 
> This turned out to be quite a mess...


I believe the Phanteks block is compatible with that card, not positive though. The Phanteks line of GPU blocks is excellent and is worth a look to check compatibility - http://www.phanteks.com/PH-GB1080FTW.html


----------



## kevindd992002

nycgtr said:


> B3MMi said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can't find where to order the Fujipoly pads for reasonable price. Amazon has them but it would cost me like 50€ for the pads + shipping. Seems like they don't sell them in Europe.
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly, I would just get the bitspower unless its very important to have black. In which case wrap your block cover. Here are a few things I have had issues with EK Gpu blocks. Missing stand offs (bitspower has an extra included so you dont have to go thru EK RMA). The oil EK uses on the Orings starts leaving this residue around it that is extremely annoying and requires a tear down to clean up. It's on all their blocks. If you ever owned a NON ek block you wouldn't buy another EK block. The quality in hand is just sup par. Now it may get the job done but at the end of the day the price you pay doesn't save you any. IF you need a black block. EVGA has the hydrocopper like I've stated.
> 
> https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=400-HC-5699-B1
> 
> I am pretty sure swiftech makes them for EVGA.
> 
> I know I am coming off as a total EK hater lol. Just look at my evolv most recent post. It's all ek pretty much outside of the fittings of which only some are. Out of every EK component in that build I can tell you where cost was cut and issues I've had with it. I owned too much of the product and now I just refuse to buy it if there's an alternative. The only way we are going to get EK to up their game is if we vote with our wallets. The mindshare is too strong from bought out yters to sponsored builds left and right. It really comes down to one purchase at a time. Last year was watercool's best sales year which is a good trend. Reading posts across forums, discords I can see the light is coming thru. It's in everyone's best interest if the bar is set higher.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I have the EK block and had I known better I wouldn't have gone with them. Regarding the oil on their O-rings, would that oil go away if I already cleaned the internals of the block? I disassembled the block a few days ago because there was green build up (which I don't know where that came from as I was very meticulous in cleaning everything before running the loop with Blitz Part 2) and had to clean it.


----------



## B3MMi

ciarlatano said:


> I believe the Phanteks block is compatible with that card, not positive though. The Phanteks line of GPU blocks is excellent and is worth a look to check compatibility - http://www.phanteks.com/PH-GB1080FTW.html


Sadly it's not compatible :S


----------



## elucid087

Tempered Glass variant owner here. 

I have some questions regarding the glass side panels and how there seems to be a bit of gap between the window and the actual case itself. This is starting to annoy me because the dust buildup around these areas is ever present. It really begs the question: what was phanteks thinking when they decided to put fan filters whilst completely overlooking this design flaw? They sealed the back part of the case but completely neglected the front... Where the freaking intakes are... 

Now for the solution. I've been looking at sound dampening foam but everywhere I look it's 3mm thick and above. Has anyone found a workaround for this?


----------



## kevindd992002

elucid087 said:


> Tempered Glass variant owner here.
> 
> I have some questions regarding the glass side panels and how there seems to be a bit of gap between the window and the actual case itself. This is starting to annoy me because the dust buildup around these areas is ever present. It really begs the question: what was phanteks thinking when they decided to put fan filters whilst completely overlooking this design flaw? They sealed the back part of the case but completely neglected the front... Where the freaking intakes are...
> 
> Now for the solution. I've been looking at sound dampening foam but everywhere I look it's 3mm thick and above. Has anyone found a workaround for this?


If you have a positive pressure setup, you shouldn't be having this issue though. IIRC, mine is not completely flushed with the case too but the gap is very minimal and I'm not expecting it to be air tight anyway


----------



## doyll

kevindd992002 said:


> If you have a positive pressure setup, you shouldn't be having this issue though. IIRC, mine is not completely flushed with the case too but the gap is very minimal and I'm not expecting it to be air tight anyway


Agree, positive pressure should solve dust problem.


----------



## kevindd992002

doyll said:


> Agree, positive pressure should solve dust problem.


On the same note, how do you quickly test if a system has a positive pressure? Is hanging a tissue/napkin paper on the rear fan slot (assuming it is vacant) the best method?


----------



## doyll

kevindd992002 said:


> On the same note, how do you quickly test if a system has a positive pressure? Is hanging a tissue/napkin paper on the rear fan slot (assuming it is vacant) the best method?


Should work. :thumb:
Or unused side vent, or PCIe slots, or bottom or top vent depending on case with case on it's side, etc (. If tissue flutters a little we know there is a little air leaking out so none should leak in. 

PCIe slots are good to check with system working hard to be sure GPU fan near back is now drawing air in through them. If it is, put a filter on them.


----------



## elucid087

kevindd992002 said:


> If you have a positive pressure setup, you shouldn't be having this issue though. IIRC, mine is not completely flushed with the case too but the gap is very minimal and I'm not expecting it to be air tight anyway


I have positive pressure and it's still an issue. I have my H115i rad mounted on top as intakes, the front two fans as intakes, and the rear as exhaust. That said, I'm a firm believer in that Phanteks could've, and should've done a better job at sealing the front part of the panel.


----------



## doyll

elucid087 said:


> I have positive pressure and it's still an issue. I have my H115i rad mounted on top as intakes, the front two fans as intakes, and the rear as exhaust. That said, I'm a firm believer in that Phanteks could've, and should've done a better job at sealing the front part of the panel.


Sorry, but if you had positive pressure air would be leaking out so unless the dust is inside of case (because you don't have all intakes vents filtered) the dust collecting on the glass is from air leaking into case as a result of case not being lower pressure than room. No if's / and's / but's here, it's simply low pressure inside of case lets dust leak in or higher pressure inside of case leaks clean air out .. again, assuming all intakes are filtered.


----------



## elucid087

doyll said:


> Sorry, but if you had positive pressure air would be leaking out so unless the dust is inside of case (because you don't have all intakes vents filtered) the dust collecting on the glass is from air leaking into case as a result of case not being lower pressure than room. No if's / and's / but's here, it's simply low pressure inside of case lets dust leak in or higher pressure inside of case leaks clean air out .. again, assuming all intakes are filtered.


I ran the incense test... Don't assume things if you're not 100% positive, thanks.


----------



## kevindd992002

doyll said:


> Should work. :thumb:
> Or unused side vent, or PCIe slots, or bottom or top vent depending on case with case on it's side, etc (. If tissue flutters a little we know there is a little air leaking out so none should leak in.
> 
> PCIe slots are good to check with system working hard to be sure GPU fan near back is now drawing air in through them. If it is, put a filter on them.


Oops, I forgot to mention that I'm on a custom watercooling loop so the GPU fan drawing in air isn't applicable in my case 

Now when you do positive pressure testing, does it have to be positive pressure both at idle and at load?


----------



## doyll

elucid087 said:


> I ran the incense test... Don't assume things if you're not 100% positive, thanks.


Please re-read my explanation. 

Then please kindly explain to us how it is possible for there to be dust inside of your case by that thin gap between glass and frame if all air coming in through fans is filtered and pressurizing the case so dusty air can cannot be leaking in through that crack.




kevindd992002 said:


> Oops, I forgot to mention that I'm on a custom watercooling loop so the GPU fan drawing in air isn't applicable in my case
> 
> Now when you do positive pressure testing, does it have to be positive pressure both at idle and at load?


I figured your system was all water cooled, but added that bit for others with air cooled GPU because it is not uncommon for GPU fan near back to draw air into a pressurized case. Especially if fan is running at speeds above 50%. :thumb:


----------



## kevindd992002

doyll said:


> elucid087 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I ran the incense test... Don't assume things if you're not 100% positive, thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> Please re-read my explanation.
> 
> Then please kindly explain to us how it is possible for there to be dust inside of your case by that thin gap between glass and frame if all air coming in through fans is filtered and pressurizing the case so dusty air can cannot be leaking in through that crack.
Click to expand...

Could it be because the thim gap between the tempered glass and the case is very close to the intake gap of the fron intake fans rendering the positive pressure useless?

I did a quick test earlier and I'm not sure how to do it for the glass-case gap and the intake gap separately. They're too close to each other and when I put the napkin near it, it sucks the air in and that's obviously because of the intake fans.



doyll said:


> kevindd992002 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, I forgot to mention that I'm on a custom watercooling loop so the GPU fan drawing in air isn't applicable in my case /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> Now when you do positive pressure testing, does it have to be positive pressure both at idle and at load?
> 
> 
> 
> I figured your system was all water cooled, but added that bit for others with air cooled GPU because it is not uncommon for GPU fan near back to draw air into a pressurized case. Especially if fan is running at speeds above 50%. /forum/images/smilies/thumb.gif
Click to expand...

Gotcha! I was wondering if this is true with the situation I just explained above this quote.


----------



## elucid087

doyll said:


> Please re-read my explanation.
> 
> Then please kindly explain to us how it is possible for there to be dust inside of your case by that thin gap between glass and frame if all air coming in through fans is filtered and pressurizing the case so dusty air can cannot be leaking in through that crack.
> 
> 
> 
> I figured your system was all water cooled, but added that bit for others with air cooled GPU because it is not uncommon for GPU fan near back to draw air into a pressurized case. Especially if fan is running at speeds above 50%. :thumb:



I don't need to "re-read" your explanation, thanks. 

I found some black 1mm thick adhesive foam at my local store and it it's now completely sealed off. And FYI, my top rad intakes aren't filtered because as you're probably already aware, the top of the case doesn't have a grille. Moreover, that's not where most of the dust is collecting from.


----------



## elucid087

kevindd992002 said:


> *Could it be because the thim gap between the tempered glass and the case is very close to the intake gap of the fron intake fans rendering the positive pressure useless?*
> 
> I did a quick test earlier and I'm not sure how to do it for the glass-case gap and the intake gap separately. They're too close to each other and when I put the napkin near it, it sucks the air in and that's obviously because of the intake fans.
> 
> 
> 
> Gotcha! I was wondering if this is true with the situation I just explained above this quote.


Bingo. First hand experience means a lot because people have different configurations.


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## kevindd992002

elucid087 said:


> Bingo. First hand experience means a lot because people have different configurations.


Interesting. You should've lead with that 

Now I'm inclined to seal that gap also. I'm assuming you put the adhesive on the tempered glass panels themselves, right?


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## blarf

Hey Guys,

Quick question: To cool an overclocked 6700k and an overclocked 1080ti FE in the Evolv case, would you recommend a GTS360 + GTS280 OR GTS360 + GTS240?

Also Phanteks F140/120 SP/MP vs BeQuiet Silent Winds 3 Fans?? 

What would you recommend?

thanks


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## doyll

elucid087 said:


> Bingo. First hand experience means a lot because people have different configurations.


Yeah, something your are gaining as you go along. In earlier post I said "_PCIe slots are good to check with system working hard to be sure GPU fan near back is now drawing air in through them. If it is, put a filter on them._" This is same problem you evidently have but on front of case instead of back an intake fans instead of GPU fans. kevindd992002 caught it and asked about it and I answered him how it can happen in same post I asked your to re-read my explaination. 
http://www.overclock.net/forum/27117017-post1948.html


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## nycgtr

blarf said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> Quick question: To cool an overclocked 6700k and an overclocked 1080ti FE in the Evolv case, would you recommend a GTS360 + GTS280 OR GTS360 + GTS240?
> 
> Also Phanteks F140/120 SP/MP vs BeQuiet Silent Winds 3 Fans??
> 
> What would you recommend?
> 
> thanks


So I know your new but you could try going back a page or two. I posted pretty much everything related to your question using essentially the same hardware.


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## blarf

nycgtr said:


> So I know your new but you could try going back a page or two. I posted pretty much everything related to your question using essentially the same hardware.


Just did that.....and thank you. So what you are saying is that I should be perfectly fine with just a gts360 on its own.


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## nycgtr

blarf said:


> Just did that.....and thank you. So what you are saying is that I should be perfectly fine with just a gts360 on its own.


Yes. In normal situations adding a second rad will net you a few degrees, but in this case your just adding to hot air build up in the case, which negates the benefits.


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## kevindd992002

In measuring Delta-T (ambient to water), does it really matter where you install an inline temperature sensor fitting to measure water temp? Most say to put it in the rad OUT ports as that's where the coolest section of the water is. I know water will be in equilibrium all throughout eventually but a couple of degrees is still a difference per se. I just want to know if it's worth moving my temp sensor fitting as mine is installed between the pump OUT and front rad IN (where there is also a T-fitting installed for my drain valve).


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## Nonehxc

Hello boys!

I was able to score a EKWB EK-Kit P240 on the cheap, so right now I'm finishing adquiring the rest of the bits, but I have two questions.

I will be getting the white Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS 280 and Paint It Black(no colors anymore...), since blacks and 360s are out of stock everywhere. With a EK PE 240 and that GTS 280 will I have enough cooling for a 6700k and a 1080ti? I bet that yes, since my 6700k sits comfortably in the low 60s max load under a Noctua D15.

And another one. I have lying 3 Phanteks 140mm weirdo fans from the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass, which I think I read were Phanteks 140SP with MP blades or something. I also have 3 Phanteks 140XP installed onto the case. Which of these would be the best choice? Since I will be selling my Noctua and any spare fans I don't use, I also thought of getting 2 Silent Wings 3 High Speed 140mm fans.

Thanks for your attention and help, friendos!


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## kevindd992002

If I were to put a rear fan in my watercooled Enthoo Evolv ATX TG system, whether intake or exhaust depending on the results of my testing, are the stock fans good enough to do the job even though they aren't PWM's? I have an extra brand new BeQuiet! SW3 140mm High Speed Fan lying around but I'm contemplating if I just sell it and use a stock fan or just use it instead. I feel that an SW3 is too much for that purpose but I want to hear your thoughts on this.


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## Bill Owen

nycgtr said:


> Middle red sections would look similar to this but with less depth:


I milled those vents from 1/2" thick aluminum to get that deep vent look


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## therealmckellar

Has anyone modded the front IO to swap out one of the usb ports with a usb c 3.1 port? I have the Maximus IX Formula and it has a 3.1 header. Someone surely has tried this, right?


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## Stoff

Almost done. Just need to waterjet the front panel. The top section is entirely sealed and airflow through the 420mm rad is more than sufficient.


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## nycgtr

Nice work.


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## andyp297

Hi, I hope people can help. Just doing my first custom loop and I’m having trouble positioning the ek pun and res combo. There isn’t enough room to mount the the front rad due to limited seating ace between that a GPU. I think the only way it will fit is on the drive bays. None of the current holes link up with any brackets I have so I think the drill will need to come out. What have others done to secure the pump and res to the drive bays? (I’m sure this question has been asked a lot but I can’t really find a direct answer)


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## paskowitz

andyp297 said:


> Hi, I hope people can help. Just doing my first custom loop and I’m having trouble positioning the ek pun and res combo. There isn’t enough room to mount the the front rad due to limited seating ace between that a GPU. I think the only way it will fit is on the drive bays. None of the current holes link up with any brackets I have so I think the drill will need to come out. What have others done to secure the pump and res to the drive bays? (I’m sure this question has been asked a lot but I can’t really find a direct answer)



Drill custom holes for mounting on the drive bay area, or get a reservoir with a shorter rad clearance (Singularity Computers Protium and Watercool Heatkille Tube are good for that).


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## HippoLOL

Does anyone have waterjet files for this case cutting wise for front and top panel? I need to get my case modded for better airflow. 

Any help would be greatly appreciated. <3


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## txenakis

Quick question to the owners of this case: if I dont use any water cooling in there and buy additional hard drive brackets, how many hard drives total do you think can fit? I know its stated that it can fit 8 3.5" drives, just wondering if its possible to squeeze in more...

Thanks!


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## nycgtr

I think for anyone still struggling to get cut panels, paying someone to cut your panels, etc. Just get the new version in august and craiglist it. Much more cost effective and you end up with a better case.


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## scracy

nycgtr said:


> I think for anyone still struggling to get cut panels, paying someone to cut your panels, etc. Just get the new version in august and craiglist it. Much more cost effective and you end up with a better case.


Personally I cannot wait to get my hands on the new Evolve X, don't know how much the dimensions have changed to accommodate 2x360mm radiators guess I will have to wait until Phanteks lists the new case.


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## viperguy212

nycgtr said:


> I think for anyone still struggling to get cut panels, paying someone to cut your panels, etc. Just get the new version in august and craiglist it. Much more cost effective and you end up with a better case.


I was just about to ask... I'm someone with a cut top panel (Modmymods version) but I'm in the middle of putting together a new build and this case hasn't exactly been awesome at all times. Anyone maybe going to swap theirs out with an Evolv X? It does look damn promising.


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## nycgtr

Those in this thread with the Matx evolv variant modmymods is doing runs for the top and front. The top is probably the most helpful mod you can get.

https://modmymods.com/catalogsearch/...ty=704&q=evolv


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## doyll

nycgtr said:


> Those in this thread with the Matx evolv variant modmymods is doing runs for the top and front. The top is probably the most helpful mod you can get.
> 
> https://modmymods.com/catalogsearch/...ty=704&q=evolv


Interesting, but I like the way Phanteks re-worked the panels in the not yet released Evolv X. I've heard these panels will also fit existing ATX cases. They need to do similar panels for Evolv mATX.


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## oO-Waschbaer-Oo

doyll said:


> Interesting, but I like the way Phanteks re-worked the panels in the not yet released Evolv X. I've heat these panels will also fit existing ATX cases. They need to do similar panels for Evolv mATX.


i dont think they will fit, the top is reworked, and the front aswell, ( especially the fanfilter .. )


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## doyll

oO-Waschbaer-Oo said:


> i dont think they will fit, the top is reworked, and the front aswell, ( especially the fanfilter .. )


It was only rumour. I think it is possible if they are using same base chassis for new Evolv X as was used on Evolv ATX. I know the X has remodeled front filter and radiator bracket, but it's still possible the cover mounting clips didn't change. 

I can understand how Phanteks would make them interchangeable as well as understand why they would not. Interchangeable support existing customers and they do a good job of customer support. On the other had not being interchangeable means more Evolv X sales to peeps who have Evolv ATX and what Evolv X like covers. 

I'll just wait and see.


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## Biggus86

Firstly.... that's a metric tuck fon of pages to get through. I've dabbled in this thread many times but not through every page.

There's a lot of good info, and I've registered just to say thanks to those putting up first had experience and advise.

I've had this case for a while now and I've luckily found myself in the posession of a EK 240 kit (RGB), watercooling has been my long term goal for my rig but that initial outlay for the components has prevented me from moving forward.
I've bought a GTS 360 to go up top, I'm just waiting until payday so I can buy a few more fittings and a GPU block. I'm reluctantly going soft tubing as they're the fittings I've got, but hardline will be done at some point.

So my set up will be: 

PE 240 Front
GTS 360 Top (panel rested)
EK block for 1080FTW2
EK Supremacy CPU block
EK Rev 140


Now that the Evolv X is out, there's little point in getting my panels cut or doing it myself, I'll make up the cost by selling the x62 and the case, throw a few extra notes in and I've got an even better looking case that I don't have to mod (I hope).





therealmckellar said:


> Has anyone modded the front IO to swap out one of the usb ports with a usb c 3.1 port? I have the Maximus IX Formula and it has a 3.1 header. Someone surely has tried this, right?


This is one thing I've not seen whilst scanning all 198 pages, would be interesting to see if people have done it, I've thought about it and running it out back or through the top... but that defeats the point of wanting it on the front I/O.


Again, big thumbs up to most of the solid posters on here.


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## ciarlatano

Biggus86 said:


> Firstly.... that's a metric tuck fon of pages to get through. I've dabbled in this thread many times but not through every page.
> 
> There's a lot of good info, and I've registered just to say thanks to those putting up first had experience and advise.
> 
> I've had this case for a while now and I've luckily found myself in the posession of a EK 240 kit (RGB), watercooling has been my long term goal for my rig but that initial outlay for the components has prevented me from moving forward.
> I've bought a GTS 360 to go up top, I'm just waiting until payday so I can buy a few more fittings and a GPU block. I'm reluctantly going soft tubing as they're the fittings I've got, but hardline will be done at some point.
> 
> So my set up will be:
> 
> PE 240 Front
> GTS 360 Top (panel rested)
> EK block for 1080FTW2
> EK Supremacy CPU block
> EK Rev 140
> 
> 
> Now that the Evolv X is out, there's little point in getting my panels cut or doing it myself, I'll make up the cost by selling the x62 and the case, throw a few extra notes in and I've got an even better looking case that I don't have to mod (I hope).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is one thing I've not seen whilst scanning all 198 pages, would be interesting to see if people have done it, I've thought about it and running it out back or through the top... but that defeats the point of wanting it on the front I/O.
> 
> 
> Again, big thumbs up to most of the solid posters on here.


Take a look at the Phanteks GPU block. I swapped out a couple of my EK blocks for these. Similar performance, but nicer looking with a good RGB setup, and better build quality than the EKs. You can also use the EVGA backplate with the Phanteks with no issues.


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## Biggus86

ciarlatano said:


> Take a look at the Phanteks GPU block. I swapped out a couple of my EK blocks for these. Similar performance, but nicer looking with a good RGB setup, and better build quality than the EKs. You can also use the EVGA backplate with the Phanteks with no issues.


I have done, it's not compatible with the ICX cards, and I've seen nothing on Google to say otherwise. Plus the price difference between EK/WC and Phanteks is massive.

I've read that the HK IV offers margionally better performance, but I'm just not sold on it asthetically (if I where to virtically mount, I might be swayed... but I'm not), so I'll stick with EK's offering. I prefer the squared off and milled logo look of EK's terminal block.

I'm that eager to crack on I feel like sticking the rest of it on plastic and starting as soon as it arrives haha.


EDIT: That HK IV is growing on me... been reading through the HK Club thread.


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## Strokin3s

Damn its been over a month and the case is still out of stock? Anyways.. for the people who have received the case... does it live up to the hype?


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## haszek

Strokin3s said:


> Damn its been over a month and the case is still out of stock? Anyways.. for the people who have received the case... does it live up to the hype?


Case is great. It looks amazing, quality is very high, building in it is a breeze, easy to use multiple radiators (I use 2x360) and temps are very good for me. The only minus are those covers for cables. They look nice when case is empty, but when you need to put through 24pin it doesn't look as nice as with cases that have rubber grommets.


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## Random_Sheep

Hay everyone.
Firstly to everyone who has posted photos of their rig, all i can say is wow!!!!

Now, i know this has been asked before but does anyone have an accurate cad drawing of the front and top panels?
Am busy working on the modding i would like to do to mine so i was hoping someone might have done one already.

TIA


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## Lupo91

Hi everyone

is it possible to put a 360 / 45mm radiator on the top and a 240 of 45 / 60mm in front, without removing the door underneath?


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## Uroborous

My Evolv atx (non tempered glass edition) does not sit evenly on its four legs. Any ideas?


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## doyll

Uroborous said:


> My Evolv atx (non tempered glass edition) does not sit evenly on its four legs. Any ideas?


 Strange. 

How much space is under the shorter foot / leg? 

Ar e they mounted on with screws? 

Maybe loosen screw and put some cardboard or something to increase the distance from bottom of foot to case.


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