# Lapping your CPU and Heatsink



## GuardianOdin

*ATTENTION: If anyone has anything to add please do. Respect is a must. I won't put up with disrespectful people and you will be reported.*

*UPDATE:* I will be adding real photos in the near future to better demonstrate my process.

*Lapping Kit*

*Lapping your CPU and Heatsink any make or model*

Materials you will need.

*Misc*: Cotton rags, Rubbing alcohol/Isopropyl alcohol 90%-97% Walgreen's or Wal-Mart will carry this.

*Aluminum Oxide Sandpaper*: Grits ranging from 400 to 2500 depending. Normally 400 to 1500 will do. It's really how far you feel you should go. This can be purchased at any automotive store. I would suggest 4 sheets per grit. So if you want to lap both CPU and Heatsink, then you would need 8 sheets total for each grit.

Product search

*Oil*: 3in1 oil will work just fine and this can be purchased almost anywhere. Grocery store, drug store&#8230;etc

*Metal Polish & cloth*: I would suggest a high grade metal polish, but the cheaper metal polishes will work. As far as polishing cloth the cotton rags will work fine, but if you want or feel you need the pricey stuff it's up to you.

Product search

Poduct search

*Glass base*: Â¼ inch thick piece of glass measuring 6x6 inch or 8x8 inch will be just fine. You really do not need to go any bigger. The reason to use a glass base to lap on is the fact that it is perfectly flat and that is exactly what you want.

*Tape*: Pretty much any tape will do, gift wrap tape/painters tape. Painters tape is probably better.

*
Starting*

Take a Black Sharpie marker and either mark an *X* on the surface to be lapped or you can cover the entire surface. Either way will work.

After you have taped the sandpaper down and starting with the lowest grit. You want to start by move the CPU/Heatsink back and forth for a few seconds. Example below



















Then rotate the CPU/Heatsink 45 degrees and repeat. Example below










After doing this repeatedly, you will have gone full circle with the CPU/Heatsink. Example below










As the copper starts to build you can now add the oil. Personally I do not add the oil until I reach the 800grit paper. Some people use oil during the entire process. Either way is fine. Just remember when starting on the lower grits "dry" the CPU/Heatsink will want to jump/jitter forward because of the friction.

One important thin to remember is to ALWAYS stay flat. Your hand automatically wants rock back and forth when you sand. Apply even pressure to the CPU/Heatsink, but to not bear down on it or you could damage your parts or even crack the glass.

Heatsink: Some people assume just having the middle lapped is fine. That is incorrect. See Examples below. The reason you want both CPU and Heatsink both 100% lapped is to ensure they are both connecting and able to transfer the heat as much as possible. Remember some heatsinks are large and heavy and when mounted onto the CPU they tend to bow the motherboard or lean down. Making sure both are 100% lapped will ensure is does not do this. For those with large heatsinks, it is a good idea to brace/tie down the heatsink so it does not lean down while the PC is standing upright.

Now if only the middle part is lapped you run the chance of actually having worse temps than when you started and only lapping the CPU or the Heatsink is pointless. Both need to be lapped to drop your temps because neither is perfect from the factory.





































*Please*: Anyone that is experienced please add info or PM me so I can add to this. I am not an expert at this, but I see a lot of people wanting to lap without the knowledge needed. Advise and question are welcome. *Rude comments,obnoxious behavior will be reported.*

Here is a great tutorial over at DFI boards Picture Tutorial - How to make things shine

Best of luck!

A little help from HatesFury. I will add more and straighten things soon.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HatesFury* 
Stay with 400 grit until you have a level HSF, the increase in grits is only to incrase smoothness, 400 is what you want to use to remove copper. Look for a pattern to the high spots (such as one side, or one corner). Adjust to correct high spots (apply MORE pressure on the high spot than on the low spot) make a few passes (3-5) and check the level again. Applying more pressure to part of the HSF is going to make drastic changes to it, so you only want to make a few passes then recheck or you'll grind too much off









Every guide i've ever seen tells people to use uniform pressure for lapping. This is true when you're trying to maek the HSF smoother, but not when you're trying to level an uneven HSF. If you're holding uniform pressure on a HSF that has a slop, you're sanding the whole surface at once, which makes the HSF hold the slop. To correct uneven blocks you must apply pressure to the high spots to wear them down, then go to uniform pressure once you've worked the highspot out to get a nice level finish, then you polish. This is more complicated than a simple polish job, and it takes more care.


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## Refresh

This would've been really helpful a couple of days ago... I think I messed up my lap, but only time will tell.


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## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Refresh* 
This would've been really helpful a couple of days ago...

Yeah, Watching all the comments in your thread made me put it together.


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## shizdan

GREAT im gonna order a lapping kit tonight +rep


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## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shizdan* 
GREAT im gonna order a lapping kit tonight +rep

great! Hopefully some more folks that have experience will start posting and help out.

Post some pic's when you start.


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## luk

Hi, welldone. I just went into supermarket to purchase sandpaper and a glas for a lap job and I only needed to guide to do it. As I now found it, I can start. Thx a lot for this well-structured guide. +rep.

I've got a question though, what kind of oil can I use as I'm not sure what this 3in1 oil is(I'm not from the US and a non-native English speaker)?
And is a decent lap job possible with sandpaper grit from 400-1000 or do I need higher one's as well?

thx in advance

luk


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## GuardianOdin

hey Luk, Here is a pic of the 3-in-1 oil










I do not believe America is the only place to by it, basically any standard household oil/lubricant.

as far as grits,I would suggest a minimum of 1500 grit. You not just trying to get it flat but also the little scratches/dips in the surface of the CPU and Heatsink that are hard to see with the eye. The more contact the better. Good luck and post as many questions as you want=)


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## boonie2

Thats exactly how its done , good info. REP+1


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## luk

Hi GuardianOdin,

I've already did that lap job, without higher grits than 1000 and without oil but it had an effect on the temps(might gonna redo it anyway).

Here's the link:

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...vs-lapped.html

greets luk


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## 1 g0t 0wn3d

Some people mark their cpu before lapping with marker once all the marker is gone its level and you can work on that mirrior finish


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## ghost

nice tut


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## doitallman

i found that the oil really isnt necassary if you just have a little patience. did this a few days ago with dry paper.
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...lap-today.html


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## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *doitallman* 
i found that the oil really isnt necassary if you just have a little patience. did this a few days ago with dry paper.
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...lap-today.html

with a little oil all those light scratches will be removed,not to say you can't.But oil helps take it that much farther.


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## hy897t

Just a question and I am a noob sorry. What does lapping do? How does it help with heat? and so on I want to get all info I can about it if possible. Thanks


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## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GriZzlEnLS* 
Just a question and I am a noob sorry. What does lapping do? How does it help with heat? and so on I want to get all info I can about it if possible. Thanks

hey GriZzlEnLS, Lapping the CPU and Heatsink makes both surfaces as flat as possible for better heat transfer. The mirror shine everyone talks about really helps. Normally when applying the thermal paste,the paste is filling in the areas where both surfaces do not touch correctly. Lapping flattens them both out so you only need a very small amount of thermal paste or TIM to seat the two together. Also all those little scratches are removed when lapping to better help heat transfer. Hope that helped.


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## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GriZzlEnLS* 
Just a question and I am a noob sorry. What does lapping do? How does it help with heat? and so on I want to get all info I can about it if possible. Thanks









go to the 1st post in this thread , its about the best guide ive seen , step by step


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## Blameless

I prefer using water over oil (less damaging to the thermal paste between heatspreader and CPU die, if you get it in the vent, and the sandpaper lasts longer) and I have noticed virtually no difference in performance between two very flat, and two _slightly_ convex surfaces. The latter seems to have a lensing effect and spreads the thermal compound more thinly in the center, where the die of the chip is.

Otherwise, I like it.


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## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blameless* 
I prefer using water over oil (less damaging to the thermal paste between heatspreader and CPU die, if you get it in the vent, and the sandpaper lasts longer) and I have noticed virtually no difference in performance between two very flat, and two _slightly_ convex surfaces. The latter seems to have a lensing effect and spreads the thermal compound more thinly in the center, where the die of the chip is.

Otherwise, I like it.









how could anyone possibly get it in the vent and leave it there? i knew someone couldnt resist overanalyzing lapping


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## HatesFury

Small C&C... i think your advice on alcohol is BAD... 70% is NOT what you want to be cleaning PC parts with. 70% is an oil based alcohol, and will leave residue on your parts. I never advsie anyone to use anything less then 90% alcohol on PC parts... rest looks like good stuff


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## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blameless* 
I prefer using water over oil (less damaging to the thermal paste between heatspreader and CPU die, if you get it in the vent, and the sandpaper lasts longer) and I have noticed virtually no difference in performance between two very flat, and two _slightly_ convex surfaces. The latter seems to have a lensing effect and spreads the thermal compound more thinly in the center, where the die of the chip is.

Otherwise, I like it.

I use oil becuase it is non conductive if any where to be left on it. As far as TIM,I only use a half a grain of uncooked rice size when I apply it. Maybe a bit less.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HatesFury* 
Small C&C... i think your advice on alcohol is BAD... 70% is NOT what you want to be cleaning PC parts with. 70% is an oil based alcohol, and will leave residue on your parts. I never advsie anyone to use anything less then 90% alcohol on PC parts... rest looks like good stuff









Noted and Added/Fix hadn't noticed I put 70% in there. Thanks and Rep


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## GuardianOdin

added a lapping kit link at the top of first post!!! :Thumb:

Thanks to *darkninja420* for the link.


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## Blameless

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 







how could anyone possibly get it in the vent and leave it there? i knew someone couldnt resist overanalyzing lapping























The only way to get it out from under the heatspreader would be to cut off the heatspreader. That, or submerge it in a solvent which would do even more damage to the TIM.

I don't see how I'm over analyzing anything, I have had two A64s eventually become unsuable with the heatspreader because solvent has gotten underneath it and eaten away at the layer of shin-etsu that connects the die to the IHS.


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## Thunderer

So what exaclty is the purpose of lapping??? Would it help achieve better cooling???


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## doitallman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Thunderer* 
So what exaclty is the purpose of lapping??? Would it help achieve better cooling???

yes it help with temps. i lapped mine last week and it dropped 10c off my load temps.


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## Thunderer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *doitallman* 
i lapped mine last week and it dropped 10c off my load temps.









But 10c after you have tried without lapping or with lapping immediately??


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## HatesFury

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Thunderer* 
But 10c after you have tried without lapping or with lapping immediately??

10c drop from lapping both the heatsink and the processor is not uncommon in the least Thunderer... The IHS (lid) on your proc is really a ******ed deisng... lets take this awesome coppy heatsink (good heat transfer) and put a layer of nickle (sucks at heat transfer on top of it)......







....... Also lapping makes both the proc and HSF smooth. This makes for more even contact, which means more heat is transfered, which means lower temps.

Quote:

yes it help with temps. i lapped mine last week and it dropped 10c off my load temps.
He would've had to have run his PC without lapping, to know the "before" load temps, as the temps after lapping are the "after" and you can't calculate the differece without both numbers


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## SANNIN3Xjima

Great FAQ because I was wondering how to lap and I had this bookmarked. Thank you.


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## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blameless* 
The only way to get it out from under the heatspreader would be to cut off the heatspreader. That, or submerge it in a solvent which would do even more damage to the TIM.

I don't see how I'm over analyzing anything, I have had two A64s eventually become unsuable with the heatspreader because solvent has gotten underneath it and eaten away at the layer of shin-etsu that connects the die to the IHS.

well guess what ? maybe you need to be a bit more careful then and not slop solvent all over everything , the idea is to clean it not soak it


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## Ghostkilla

Im gonna lap my TT120 next week when my easypckit arrives. Im pretty sure I can handle the lapping itself but how the hell do you keep your TT120 from sagging downward? almost looks like its drooping a little.


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## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla* 
Im gonna lap my TT120 next week when my easypckit arrives. Im pretty sure I can handle the lapping itself but how the hell do you keep your TT120 from sagging downward? almost looks like its drooping a little.

I just used zip ties for my Big Typhoon.


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## grunion

Very nice tut


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## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *grunion* 
Very nice tut









well thanks Grunion!

An update for everyone,as soon as I get some more sand paper I will lapping my AMD 3500 Venice and getting REAL pictures to post for those who would like the see the real deal. I should have paper in the next 2 weeks.


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## doitallman

what grit and i will try the same. see what the results are between hands.


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## HatesFury

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blameless* 
The only way to get it out from under the heatspreader would be to cut off the heatspreader. That, or submerge it in a solvent which would do even more damage to the TIM.

I don't see how I'm over analyzing anything, I have had two A64s eventually become unsuable with the heatspreader because solvent has gotten underneath it and eaten away at the layer of shin-etsu that connects the die to the IHS.

wait wait wait... slow down.... Am i the only one who caught this???? Almost all of the Athalon 64 procs DON'T HAVE THEIR IHS Soldered on... so how did solvent eat the solder??? ((I've held a 4000+, 3200+, and FX-60 in my hands that have had their lids removed))....









2) this again sound ludacris because the solvent would've eaten through the ULTRA tiny compactior pack leads LONG before it ate solder....


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## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
I just used zip ties for my Big Typhoon.


k, I think that will look kind of ghetto but it could work. I think I know why mine sags now, one of the mounting bolts that goes into the case before you mount the MB is stripped and I couldnt get another one to tap into it and it looks like it is causing most of the sag. Ill have to figure out a way to get another one in there I suppose.


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## Blameless

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HatesFury* 
wait wait wait... slow down.... Am i the only one who caught this???? Almost all of the Athalon 64 procs DON'T HAVE THEIR IHS Soldered on... so how did solvent eat the solder??? ((I've held a 4000+, 3200+, and FX-60 in my hands that have had their lids removed))....









2) this again sound ludacris because the solvent would've eaten through the ULTRA tiny compactior pack leads LONG before it ate solder....










Where did I say _anything_ about solder?

I've removed the heatspreaders from at least a half-dozen AMD chips and I am well aware that the IHS is not soldered on. AMD uses shin-etsu thermal paste (as I stated above) as the interface between die and heatspreader. That is what was disolved by the solvent (arctic cooling tim cleaner in one case, WD40 in another).


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## HatesFury

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blameless* 
Where did I say _anything_ about solder?

I've removed the heatspreaders from at least a half-dozen AMD chips and I am well aware that the IHS is not soldered on. AMD uses shin-etsu thermal paste (as I stated above) as the interface between die and heatspreader. That is what was disolved by the solvent (arctic cooling tim cleaner in one case, WD40 in another).









... at 3am i swear it said solder







... i do however, still think it would eaten the compacitor packs before eating the thermal paste (as it's sandwhiched in tight). I can't image how you got that much on your chip anyways... i dip a Q-tip in alcohol, then squeeze our the excess when i'm cleaning PC parts....


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## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HatesFury* 







... at 3am i swear it said solder







... i do however, still think it would eaten the compacitor packs before eating the thermal paste (as it's sandwhiched in tight). I can't image how you got that much on your chip anyways... i dip a Q-tip in alcohol, then squeeze our the excess when i'm cleaning PC parts....

I think he dunks it like cookies and milk





















seriously tho , how can you get that much excess solvent on it, when all your doing it wiping it clean?


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## Elightos

great guide thanks alot! just want to point out that the first link to the lapping kit isnÂ´t working (atleast not for me). apart from that great! thanks alot







+ rep


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## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Elightos* 
great guide thanks alot! just want to point out that the first link to the lapping kit isnÂ´t working (atleast not for me). apart from that great! thanks alot








+ rep

I'll get on that asap =) working on a higher OC at the moment thou


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## Thunderer

Is it true that lapping an HSF would void the warranty???


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## HatesFury

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Thunderer* 
Is it true that lapping an HSF would void the warranty???

yup. you're physically damaging it. now most manufacturers will still honor the warranty as long as you haven't destoryed it, but technically it does void it.

who's ever RMA'd a cooler unless it arrived damaged?? They work or they don't. Only thing that goes wrong witht he HSF itself is the fan, which you're better off replacing yourself. HSF's dont' really go bad unless you break them.


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## Thunderer

So if I lap a TRUE according to the tutorial, I should be fine?


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## HatesFury

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Thunderer* 
So if I lap a TRUE according to the tutorial, I should be fine?

The baseplate of a heatsink is generally atleast 1\\4" thick unless it's a newer modle with exposed heatpipes in the base. I don't know which the TRUE is, but if it has a solid copper base, i'd say you'll be fine lapping it. A good lap job doesn't remove even 1\\16" of the copper, you not doing any damage to the HSF.


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## Thunderer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HatesFury* 
I don't know which the TRUE is

Well, I am talking about the Thermalright Ultra Extreme 120, maybe would help you more in helping me


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## HatesFury

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Thunderer* 
Well, I am talking about the Thermalright Ultra Extreme 120, maybe would help you more in helping me









nope. the admin at work says no retail sitess XD. if it doesn't have exposed heatpipes on teh bottom, i personally would lap it.


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## Thunderer

TNX m8t, will see about it then.


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## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HatesFury* 
The baseplate of a heatsink is generally atleast 14" thick unless it's a newer modle with exposed heatpipes in the base. I don't know which the TRUE is, but if it has a solid copper base, i'd say you'll be fine lapping it. A good lap job doesn't remove even 116" of the copper, you not doing any damage to the HSF.

Yeah,you would be sanding quite awhile to go threw 1/4 inch thick chunk of copper









You only goal is to get the surface as flat as possible. The amount of time required really differs fron CPU to CPU and from heatsink to heatsink even the make and model.


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## HatesFury

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
Yeah,you would be sanding quite awhile to go threw 1/4 inch thick chunk of copper









You only goal is to get the surface as flat as possible. The amount of time required really differs fron CPU to CPU and from heatsink to heatsink even the make and model.

I demand a new FAQ guardian... i want exact times for sanding through 1\\4" of solid copper using 600 grit sand paper by hand, and with a power tool, and with 1200 grit sand paper by hand and with a power tool.....









i'm giving 100\\1 odds his arm falls off first XD


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## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HatesFury* 
I demand a new FAQ guardian... i want exact times for sanding through 14" of solid copper using 600 grit sand paper by hand, and with a power tool, and with 1200 grit sand paper by hand and with a power tool.....









i'm giving 1001 odds his arm falls off first XD

lol,it took me 6 hours to lap both CPU and Heatsink....I'm think yes in fact an arm or two may fall off


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## Thunderer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
it took me 6 hours to lap both CPU and Heatsink

That is way too long. For the HSF only how much would that be, approx. 3HRS???


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## HatesFury

He's a perfectionist or very caustious... if the HSF is fairly smooth to start i've done it in 30 mins.


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## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Thunderer* 
That is way too long. For the HSF only how much would that be, approx. 3HRS???

depends how uneven it is. I know a few people it only took an hour on their heatsink and some have taken much longer. In my case the Big Typhoon was very bad. I used 5 sheets of 600grit to get it level,BUT if I had started off with 400grit it wouldn't have taken so long. I will also add this isn't something you should rush. If you do not have a few hours to give to it then you could end up with rather bad results.


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## Thunderer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
I will also add this isn't something you should rush. If you do not have a few hours to give to it then you could end up with rather bad results.

That is my only concern about lapping


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## doitallman

just take your time and have patience. ive lapped 2 blocks and 2 cpu's. learned how to do it here. then just to make sure i could do it right i used a old HSF that i had laying around to practice on.


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## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *doitallman* 
just take your time and have patience. ive lapped 2 blocks and 2 cpu's. learned how to do it here. then just to make sure i could do it right i used a old HSF that i had laying around to practice on.

defiantly practice. Very good point doitallman


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## budgetgamer

How do you grip the CPU while lapping it? Just grab the sides? I have some big/stubby hands and fingers, might be a task for me.









Also, I have heard that a small amount of dish soap/water works well if you prefer it instead of oil.


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## ghost

so you go from 400 grit to 2000 grit?


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## HatesFury

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ghost* 
so you go from 400 grit to 2000 grit?

working up, 400, 800, 1200, 1600, 2000.


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## HatesFury

Quote:


Originally Posted by *budgetgamer* 
How do you grip the CPU while lapping it? Just grab the sides? I have some big/stubby hands and fingers, might be a task for me.









Also, I have heard that a small amount of dish soap/water works well if you prefer it instead of oil.

If you have one of those snap in plasic things that procs often come in to protect the pins (older procs) we just normally tap the proc into that, and hold it while lapping. If you don't have something like this you'll have to find something that'll work.


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## roningai

Quote:

How do you grip the CPU while lapping it? Just grab the sides? I have some big/stubby hands and fingers, might be a task for me.
if you tossed the pin cover punch urself in the face...nah j/k use painters tape to cover the exposed pins and use some kind of soft foam so u can place a finger in the middle for balance (place finger not rest finger ok)


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## GuardianOdin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *budgetgamer*


How do you grip the CPU while lapping it? Just grab the sides? I have some big/stubby hands and fingers, might be a task for me.









Also, I have heard that a small amount of dish soap/water works well if you prefer it instead of oil.


As mentioned before by hatesfury use the plastic container the CPU came with.I personally just hold the edges while going threw the rougher paper first then gentally place your finger tips on the pins when you get to the much smoother papers. DO NOT push down on the pins.

I personally do not recommend soap/water. I use the 3in1 oil because it is non-conductive or corrosive.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ghost*


so you go from 400 grit to 2000 grit?


yes,start low and work your way to the superfine paper.


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## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HatesFury*


He's a perfectionist or very caustious... if the HSF is fairly smooth to start i've done it in 30 mins.


Exactly , it isnt rocket science , very simple procedure







do it just like 'Guardianodin' described in the very 1st post


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## budgetgamer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *roningai*


if you tossed the pin cover punch urself in the face...nah j/k use painters tape to cover the exposed pins and use some kind of soft foam so u can place a finger in the middle for balance (place finger not rest finger ok)



Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin*


As mentioned before by hatesfury use the plastic container the CPU came with.I personally just hold the edges while going threw the rougher paper first then gentally place your finger tips on the pins when you get to the much smoother papers. DO NOT push down on the pins.

I personally do not recommend soap/water. I use the 3in1 oil because it is non-conductive or corrosive.

yes,start low and work your way to the superfine paper.



Thanks for the great guide and additional info guys.

+REP









One more question about the Lapping Kit from SVC. Is the lapping surface they provide any good? Or just better off buying the sandpaper only (refill)?


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## roningai

Quote:

One more question about the Lapping Kit from SVC. Is the lapping surface they provide any good? Or just better off buying the sandpaper only (refill)?
i just buy my sandpaper from the automotive store. u get all the grits u need and u don't have to wait.


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## Ghostkilla

Is there a proper way to lap a HS say a big one like the TT120? I found it quite awkward trying to sand it and the only method I found was to put my hands on top of the copper part with the big bulky part on top and go at it that way but it was still pretty hard to do? Are most of you just grabbing the fin part and sanding while holding that or what?


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## HatesFury

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla* 
Is there a proper way to lap a HS say a big one like the TT120? I found it quite awkward trying to sand it and the only method I found was to put my hands on top of the copper part with the big bulky part on top and go at it that way but it was still pretty hard to do? Are most of you just grabbing the fin part and sanding while holding that or what?

I hold the biggest part of the HSF with my left hand for stability, and use my right to hold the base of the HSF flat on the surface i'm sanding. You dont' want both hands on the HSF as you're almost certain to tilt the HSF some and mess up the lap.


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## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HatesFury* 
I hold the biggest part of the HSF with my left hand for stability, and use my right to hold the base of the HSF flat on the surface i'm sanding. You dont' want both hands on the HSF as you're almost certain to tilt the HSF some and mess up the lap.


why do you guys always say HSF? isnt it just a HS? meaning HSF= heat sink fan HS= HEat sink

I take it you got the sandpaper taped down as well? Seemed like mine kept coming untaped once you add the mineral oil for lube.


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## HatesFury

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla*


why do you guys always say HSF? isnt it just a HS? meaning HSF= heat sink fan HS= HEat sink

I take it you got the sandpaper taped down as well? Seemed like mine kept coming untaped once you add the mineral oil for lube.


1) i normally don't take the fan off
2) it's designed as a singular unit. a true HS won't have fan mounts while a HSF is desinged to use a fan
3) yes taped down sandpaper. Duct tape works well XD


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## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HatesFury*


1) i normally don't take the fan off
2) it's designed as a singular unit. a true HS won't have fan mounts while a HSF is desinged to use a fan
3) yes taped down sandpaper. Duct tape works well XD



thanks for the clarity. reps to ya, i may try it again but after about 5 hours of sanding and stepping up different grades with that easy pc kit i dont think im gonna be trying it again anytime soon. I sanded the piss out of my HSF still seemed to not be perfectly flat but my temps are pretty good. load it sits at cpu1-53 cpu-2 47 and thats with a 3.2ghz overclock @ 1.425vcore. Isnt 60c supposed to be the danger zone? If so Ill just leave it be, no real reason to get it any better I suppose.

To be honest though, I may just lap my AF7 and run with that instead of the TT120, just seems a bit overkill and not needed for the C2D. My temps were ok even with the AF7. Atleast Ill get my lapping procedure down pat with it and when I get it perfected I may swap it out and see what ind of temps I get like that then maybe redo the TT120. Just seems like alot of others get alot lower temps and my room temp( according to this little cheepo digital thermo) its 74.4F.


----------



## Tricky

Good read. +REP , i can now lap my TRUE 120. By the way, whats the oil for..? Do you really need to make it shine?


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tricky* 
Good read. +REP , i can now lap my TRUE 120. By the way, whats the oil for..? Do you really need to make it shine?


oil is just for lubrication so your not dry sanding. Shining is more for show than anything but it does show a smoother surface teh shinier it is. You mainly wanna get it flatter not just smoother.


----------



## Tricky

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla* 
oil is just for lubrication so your not dry sanding. Shining is more for show than anything but it does show a smoother surface teh shinier it is. You mainly wanna get it flatter not just smoother.

Do you need to lubricate? If so, how much would you put, a drop? And Where?


----------



## HatesFury

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla* 
oil is just for lubrication so your not dry sanding. Shining is more for show than anything but it does show a smoother surface teh shinier it is. You mainly wanna get it flatter not just smoother.

Clearly, Guardians guide has served you well


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tricky* 
Do you need to lubricate? If so, how much would you put, a drop? And Where?


a few drops just to get it sliding around good enough, you dont want too much though, experimentation will dictate how much is needed per HSF you are lapping. Just put a few drops of mineral oil ( baby oil) and start sanding, if it isnt smooth enough for ya just add a few more drops till you get something that works for you. Theres no right or wrong answer here. Just put it directly on the paper or HSF, doesnt matter since both are gonna make contact at one point or another.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HatesFury* 
Clearly, Guardians guide has served you well










That is has yet I still didnt get my TT120 as flat as I wanted to though it did help alot with my temps. Probably more user error than anything not figuring out how exactly to hold this big bohemoth. lol


----------



## HatesFury

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla* 
That is has yet I still didnt get my TT120 as flat as I wanted to though it did help alot with my temps. Probably more user error than anything not figuring out how exactly to hold this big bohemoth. lol

checking flatness WHILE sanding helps best. Do you know the razorblade trick???


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HatesFury* 
checking flatness WHILE sanding helps best. Do you know the razorblade trick???










I do and tried that but still for some reason couldnt get it to sand out totally flat for some reason.


----------



## GuardianOdin

wow,thanks for the help HatesFury!! rep for that my friend.

Ghostkilla: The reason for the mirror shine is for a few reasons. One is obviously the effect of the mirror,two and more importantly is that the mirror shine also reduces how much the thermal paste has to fill in. Your looking to get as close 100% connectivity as possible. The shinier,the less thermal paste,better connectivity.

Tricky: Everyone does it differently, but I personally start using the oil when I reach the higher grits. I'd say around 800 and up. Just a few drops are needed with oil. You'll be surprised just how little you really need


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
wow,thanks for the help HatesFury!! rep for that my friend.

Ghostkilla: The reason for the mirror shine is for a few reasons. One is obviously the effect of the mirror,two and more importantly is that the mirror shine also reduces how much the thermal paste has to fill in. Your looking to get as close 100% connectivity as possible. The shinier,the less thermal paste,better connectivity.

Tricky: Everyone does it differently, but I personally start using the oil when I reach the higher grits. I'd say around 800 and up. Just a few drops are needed with oil. You'll be surprised just how little you really need










ok maybe i was doin mine wrong but with that TT120 the only way I could hold it and sand it was to grab it at its base with 3 fingers in between the fins and the actually copper base. I used the easypc kit with the glass and started with the 400 grit. Did it with the 400 grit for probably 2 hours even marked in between with a sharpie and everytime I still had high spots for some reason. Frustrated I just continued on with the higher grits just to get a smoother surface and just ran with that. I wanna try it again but its gonna be awhile before I get the nerve to waste half a day on a stupid HSF lap job. lol


----------



## GuardianOdin

sounds like yours is how my Big Typhoon was. It can take several hours if it is to far off. That shows you just how bad some of these products can be.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
sounds like yours is how my Big Typhoon was. It can take several hours if it is to far off. That shows you just how bad some of these products can be.


yeah i didnt think it could be THAT bad off though, i thought it was just me. lol


----------



## HatesFury

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla* 
yeah i didnt think it could be THAT bad off though, i thought it was just me. lol

Stay with 400 grit until you have a level HSF, the increase in grits is only to incrase smoothness, 400 is what you want to use to remove copper. Look for a pattern to the high spots (such as one side, or one corner). Adjust to correct high spots (apply MORE pressure on the high spot than on the low spot) make a few passes (3-5) and check the level again. Applying more pressure to part of the HSF is going to make drastic changes to it, so you only want to make a few passes then recheck or you'll grind too much off









Every guide i've ever seen tells people to use uniform pressure for lapping. This is true when you're trying to maek the HSF smoother, but not when you're trying to level an uneven HSF. If you're holding uniform pressure on a HSF that has a slop, you're sanding the whole surface at once, which makes the HSF hold the slop. To correct uneven blocks you must apply pressure to the high spots to wear them down, then go to uniform pressure once you've worked the highspot out to get a nice level finish, then you polish. This is more complicated than a simple polish job, and it takes more care.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HatesFury* 
Stay with 400 grit until you have a level HSF, the increase in grits is only to incrase smoothness, 400 is what you want to use to remove copper. Look for a pattern to the high spots (such as one side, or one corner). Adjust to correct high spots (apply MORE pressure on the high spot than on the low spot) make a few passes (3-5) and check the level again. Applying more pressure to part of the HSF is going to make drastic changes to it, so you only want to make a few passes then recheck or you'll grind too much off









Every guide i've ever seen tells people to use uniform pressure for lapping. This is true when you're trying to maek the HSF smoother, but not when you're trying to level an uneven HSF. If you're holding uniform pressure on a HSF that has a slop, you're sanding the whole surface at once, which makes the HSF hold the slop. To correct uneven blocks you must apply pressure to the high spots to wear them down, then go to uniform pressure once you've worked the highspot out to get a nice level finish, then you polish. This is more complicated than a simple polish job, and it takes more care.


Yeah, I totally understand the concept behind it but just couldnt get it done on my TT120. Like I said Ill practice on an old HS maybe till I get the rythym down or I may practice on my old AF7 which still is a good enough heatsink to use for my system so I may swap out when its done and work on the TT120. I could use doing my C2D a tad more. I just did it enough to expose the copper and ran with it.


----------



## Gollie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla* 
Yeah, I totally understand the concept behind it but just couldnt get it done on my TT120. Like I said Ill practice on an old HS maybe till I get the rythym down or I may practice on my old AF7 which still is a good enough heatsink to use for my system so I may swap out when its done and work on the TT120. I could use doing my C2D a tad more. I just did it enough to expose the copper and ran with it.


Hold the base of the HSF as you move it on the sand paper. If you try to hold it up high there is no way you will be able to keep enough force on it to keep it flat. I tried both ways and holding the base of the HSF is the best way to stay in control why you are moving on the sand paper.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gollie* 
Hold the base of the HSF as you move it on the sand paper. If you try to hold it up high there is no way you will be able to keep enough force on it to keep it flat. I tried both ways and holding the base of the HSF is the best way to stay in control why you are moving on the sand paper.


that was the only way i could even hold this damn thing. lol its huge! You cant even get an even stroke by holding it on the fin part.


----------



## mcogan10

i lapped a TT120 and sold it to noahmateen...had good temps, so i did a dece job i guess


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mcogan10* 
i lapped a TT120 and sold it to noahmateen...had good temps, so i did a dece job i guess










so you liked the AF7 over the TT120?


----------



## mcogan10

well my TT120 kept shorting out my boards for unknown reasons, so i bought an AF7 and never looked back


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mcogan10* 
well my TT120 kept shorting out my boards for unknown reasons, so i bought an AF7 and never looked back










weird, had to do something with the fan connection. What else would cause it to short out? The 2 things I hate about this bohemoth is you have to tie it to something to keep it from sagging, the second is I have to remove it to do ANYTHING to my PC short of maybe swapping ram or a HD which I dont do often. I still have my AF7 and I may lap it and try it again tough Im getting good temps with my TT120. no more than 50c at full load with room temps at 74-78F.


----------



## mcogan10

if you're running at 3.2, an AF7 will keep it under 50c...my 6400 didnt surpass 58c at 3.4ghz in fact.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mcogan10* 
if you're running at 3.2, an AF7 will keep it under 50c...my 6400 didnt surpass 58c at 3.4ghz in fact.


yeah right now im at 50c full load. My TT120 could use a relapse. lol Was that AF7 you used lapped or not? I dunno, my curiosity is up now, im gonna lap my AF7 and run it and see what temps i get.


----------



## HatesFury

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla* 
yeah right now im at 50c full load. My TT120 could use a relapse. lol Was that AF7 you used lapped or not? I dunno, my curiosity is up now, im gonna lap my AF7 and run it and see what temps i get.

Somecall call a doctor, He has the tinkerer\\overclocker bug!!!!


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HatesFury* 
Somecall call a doctor, He has the tinkereroverclocker bug!!!!










I have that bug since I was 14 lol. started with cars and bled over into electronics.


----------



## onlycodered

I'm interested in lapping my CPU heatsink. Any idea if it would be possible to lap my Xigmatek heatsink since the heat pipes actually have direct contact with the CPU?

Here's a picture of what I mean: http://www.frostytech.com/articleima...HDTS963_bo.jpg


----------



## HatesFury

Quote:


Originally Posted by *onlycodered* 
I'm interested in lapping my CPU heatsink. Any idea if it would be possible to lap my Xigmatek heatsink since the heat pipes actually have direct contact with the CPU?

Here's a picture of what I mean: http://www.frostytech.com/articleima...HDTS963_bo.jpg

You could do a polish job (those pink and black nail buffers work great) to get the base of the HSF smoother, but you can't go attacking that with rough grit sand paper. The walls of the heatpipes are very thin for efficent heat transfer, and if you were to sand through them you'd let the cooling solution out.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HatesFury* 
You could do a polish job (those pink and black nail buffers work great) to get the base of the HSF smoother, but you can't go attacking that with rough grit sand paper. The walls of the heatpipes are very thing for efficent heat transfer, and if you were to sand through them you'd let the cooling solution out.

agreed,Not to sure about that Heatsink. I'm sure it could be lapped, but I wouldn't suggest if it's your first time. The heatpipes carry a gas that transfers the heat and cutting/sanding into them would give you a great paperweight.


----------



## losttsol

I already sanded my CPU with 220, 300, and 400 and got the chip to red copper. Is this the next progression I should do?...

600-1000-1200-1500?

Also, do autoparts stores sell single sheets or do you have to buy the packs?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *losttsol* 
I already sanded my CPU with 220, 300, and 400 and got the chip to red copper. Is this the next progression I should do?...

600-1000-1200-1500?

Also, do autoparts stores sell single sheets or do you have to buy the packs?

keep moving up to the higher grits up to 1500,you can take it to 2000 but not necessary. Some auto parts stores sell single sheets but I believe most sell them in packs.


----------



## losttsol

Ok, I'll get some more paper tomorrow. The hardware store only had up to 400 grit today. I'm running my chip sanded up to 400 right now, but I can't tell if that even helped because I stripped a mounting screw when I put my waterblock back on today. I have really bad contact now so my temps are way high.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *losttsol* 
Ok, I'll get some more paper tomorrow. The hardware store only had up to 400 grit today. I'm running my chip sanded up to 400 right now, but I can't tell if that even helped because I stripped a mounting screw when I put my waterblock back on today. I have really bad contact now so my temps are way high.

ouch!, I seriously would recommend not running it until you finish lapping and get that mounting screw replaced. I hate to see you lose your CPU becuase of a 10 cent mounting screw.


----------



## losttsol

Don't worry, I dialed my chip down to stock and my temps are in the mid 30's idle now.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *losttsol* 
Don't worry, I dialed my chip down to stock and my temps are in the mid 30's idle now.

ok,just didn't want you to kill your chip


----------



## gamesmonkey

I'm going to be lapping soon but i'm struggling to find some IPA, all I have seen is 70%, 99% & pure up to now. I'm in the UK too

Is the pure one OK or should I hunt a 90% down?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gamesmonkey* 
I'm going to be lapping soon but i'm struggling to find some IPA, all I have seen is 70%, 99% & pure up to now. I'm in the UK too

Is the pure one OK or should I hunt a 90% down?

The higher the percent the better.


----------



## gamesmonkey

Thanks for clearing that up.

I was reading a review of a lapping kit Here where they use water on the sandpaper and he also mentions not to use oil as it is impossible to remove from the tiny cracks on the HSF without lapping again.

I have heard this about oil before & I'm now debating weather to use it in lapping


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gamesmonkey* 
Thanks for clearing that up.

I was reading a review of a lapping kit Here where they use water on the sandpaper and he also mentions not to use oil as it is impossible to remove from the tiny cracks on the HSF without lapping again.

I have heard this about oil before & I'm now debating weather to use it in lapping










thats bs, i used oil on mine and was ok, just use mineral oil not motor oil or something petroleum based. If you can get away with using just water then run with that as well.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gamesmonkey* 
Thanks for clearing that up.

I was reading a review of a lapping kit Here where they use water on the sandpaper and he also mentions not to use oil as it is impossible to remove from the tiny cracks on the HSF without lapping again.

I have heard this about oil before & I'm now debating weather to use it in lapping









I read all sorts of stuff on water and oil and even soap. I prefer oil myself and it is easily cleaned off with a good rubbing alcohol. It's not impossible to clean off. I will clarify that only a few drops per paper are needed, don't just squirt it on there.


----------



## ghost

would either of these work?



first one is for cleans. polishes, abd protects
pewter, brasss, chrome, copper and stainless,

i dont know about the one on the right. just says cleans tools and brushes after use.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ghost* 
would either of these work?



first one is for cleans. polishes, abd protects
pewter, brasss, chrome, copper and stainless,

i dont know about the one on the right. just says cleans tools and brushes after use.

Your PM's are full









for cleaning any good rubbing alcohol will do,just take your time cleaning of the residue. I like to use a quetip. One of the last steps is to polish the metal,so you need metal polish. That helps get those micro-gaps that the sanding didn't get out. You still need to clean that off with alcohol thou.


----------



## ghost

Hey i realized that the cpu processor came with a great object that can help you while doing the lapping cpu. its the black cover that covers teh chips on the cpu.







i dont think others thought of this. it works wonders


----------



## losttsol

I found a kit at the auto store that had one sheet each of grits 220-400-800-1000-2000 for $3.49. I bought 3 of these, and one pack of 1500 grit. I lapped my CPU today and it came out decent for my first try, but not a super clean mirror finish. My core temps ranged between 55C-59C under load before. Now they range between 50C-55C which is a definite improvement. Here's a look:


----------



## ghost

if my heatsink and cpu does not stick after lapping. why does this not happen? they both are lapped


----------



## roningai

Quote:

Hey i realized that the cpu processor came with a great object that can help you while doing the lapping cpu. its the black cover that covers teh chips on the cpu. i dont think others thought of this. it works wonders
sorry but it has been thought of...probplem is people like to throw stuff away once they have installed the parts, hence the need to look for a substitute cover.


----------



## binormalkilla

WHen I lapped I used liquid soap with a small splash of water to help make the lapping nice and even, smooth, etc.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *losttsol* 
I found a kit at the auto store that had one sheet each of grits 220-400-800-1000-2000 for $3.49. I bought 3 of these, and one pack of 1500 grit. I lapped my CPU today and it came out decent for my first try, but not a super clean mirror finish. My core temps ranged between 55C-59C under load before. Now they range between 50C-55C which is a definite improvement. Here's a look:




what auto parts store did you go to? I may go pick me up some this afternoon.


----------



## Gollie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla* 
what auto parts store did you go to? I may go pick me up some this afternoon.

O'Reilly's Auto Parts is a national chain I beleive. They had 1200/1500/2000 where Auto Zone did not.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gollie* 
O'Reilly's Auto Parts is a national chain I beleive. They ahd 1200/1500/2000 where Auto Zone did not.


SWEET!!! reps to you, I was hopin you would say that because they are the closest to me. lol


----------



## xShiFTx

Make sure you don't try to buy paper at a place like Home Depot. They consider 400 grit extremely fine. (Technically it is for wood, but isn't near enough for lapping).

And I speak from experience, they're right down the street so I went to check it out.


----------



## Gollie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xShiFTx* 
Make sure you don't try to buy paper at a place like Home Depot. They consider 400 grit extremely fine. (Technically it is for wood, but isn't near enough for lapping).

And I speak from experience, they're right down the street so I went to check it out.

I would get 220 (HSF) / 400 / 600 from Home Depot Loews because it will be half the price compared to an auto parts store. For one stop shopping O'Reilly's is the only store I can recommend.

_note_:I had to ask a clerk for 1500 and 2000 grit paper. It was behind the counter.


----------



## xShiFTx

I asked around and they said what was out is all they had. I saw paper ranging from 50 - 400 and that was it. I agree, the paper that they have is pretty cheap if you want those grits.

I'm lazy so I like to get everything at one place


----------



## losttsol

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla* 
what auto parts store did you go to? I may go pick me up some this afternoon.

I went to Pep Boys.


----------



## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xShiFTx* 
Make sure you don't try to buy paper at a place like Home Depot. They consider 400 grit extremely fine. (Technically it is for wood, but isn't near enough for lapping).

And I speak from experience, they're right down the street so I went to check it out.

Home Depot and Lowes both have sand paper up to 2000 grit , its called WET sand paper [Grey] used for auto body work ..ive used it everytime i lap anything , if you follow the guide in the 1st post here and use a product called BRASSO when your FINISHED lapping , it will polish it to a mirror finish , then use some alcohol and a clean cloth to remove any residue... dont overanalize it , lapping isnt rocket science


----------



## Vostro

I got my 2000 grit at AutoZone as the Lowes around me, had nothing for sandpaper around that grit for some reason...


----------



## tofumonster

+1 rep

great guide!


----------



## gamesmonkey

I am not sure how I am going to lap my HSF.
It's the Asus silent knight.

My HSF has curved sides so do I have to lap until there straight








It doesn't seem to have a tight fit so removing this much copper will make it dangerously loose & may impair cooling performance removing so much.
I included pictures to help explain.

Am I getting the wrong idea from the diagrams?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gamesmonkey* 
I am not sure how I am going to lap my HSF.
It's the Asus silent knight.

My HSF has curved sides so do I have to lap until there straight








It doesn't seem to have a tight fit so removing this much copper will make it dangerously loose & may impair cooling performance removing so much.
I included pictures to help explain.

Am I getting the wrong idea from the diagrams?

You'll be ok with that. The picture I have shown are of "common" heatsinks. Just make sure you keep it on the "flat" surface and do not rock the heatsink from side to side when sanding. Slow and steady


----------



## ghost

how far down can you lapp ur cpu? is there to far?


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ghost* 
how far down can you lapp ur cpu? is there to far?

If I am not mistaken,they are roughly the thickness of a penny. Just sand enough to get it flat.


----------



## bfgDennis

I tried following the guide and I got a decent shine on my CPU but it barely lowered my temps I think I maybe doing something wrong how many times aprox should you be doing this?


----------



## HappyVirus

try reseating your heatsink - #1 problem with people

OR

if your cooler isn't flat, then try lapping the cooler as well. as if your cooler's not flat, you get something like this: -> |( what you want is -> | |


----------



## iandroo888

just lapped my fx-60 and cleaned up/shined zalman cnps-7700cu. temps are still outrageous. hitting like high 60s.. to almost 70C. any ideas?


----------



## ghost

show good picks of ur cpu and heatsink


----------



## iandroo888

huh?


----------



## ghost

just what i said lol. show us good pics of your cpu and heatsink....


----------



## iandroo888




----------



## ghost

pics of your CPU.... and heatsink. as in the bottom of both cpu and heatsink. bro. sorry i wasnt clear about what i ment,

and for one thing that zalman is a peace of junk bro.


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
just lapped my fx-60 and cleaned up/shined zalman cnps-7700cu. temps are still outrageous. hitting like high 60s.. to almost 70C. any ideas?

both have been lapped?


----------



## Avacado

Heres what I did to my E4300 Awile back, Everyone loves pics!

I went ahead and did the lapping. Though I would have liked to take it down to a mirror finish, I only had 2000 Grit, and I got the damn thing pretty shinny. Here is how it all went.

Set up ready to start lapping










Stock CPU, this is how it looked










Marked up and ready to go, let the games begin....










Starting the 800 Grit.... Look how concave it was










Halfway through the 800 Grit.










3/4 of the way done the 800 Grit.










Done the 800 Grit.....


















End of 1000 Grit










Mid 1500 Grit










End 1500 Grit..










And the final product, after the 2000 Grit..... There are lots of fine scratches, but I didn't have the time, patence, or higher grit sandpaper to get that "Mirror finish....










Last but not least mounted in the socket ready to go!


----------



## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Avacado* 
Heres what I did to my E4300 Awile back, Everyone loves pics!

I went ahead and did the lapping. Though I would have liked to take it down to a mirror finish, I only had 2000 Grit, and I got the damn thing pretty shinny. Here is how it all went.

Awesome! Reps to you for photo's and a damn fine job! I could add these photo's to the OG post if you like. Again great job.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
both have been lapped?

the processor has been lapped.. zalman (checked with mirror) is flat. has approx a 1500 grit finish. not as shiny as processor (2000 grit). i believe thats how all zalman's are.

also, not sure how to lap the heatsink. the bottom is "clamped" by two aluminum pieces that seems to be secured by two hex bolts. i cant seem to loosen the hex bolts. if i can, ill "relap" the heatsink.

btw, question for everyone, how do you hold a AMD processor when lapping? due to having pins, its hard to hold it like you would a lga775 processor.

ill post pictures when i can


----------



## Abilor

My lap took about 1.5 hours, progressed throuh 220, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 2 1500s, and 4 2000s. Never did use oil, but I might rework with water at 2000 when my TRUE gets here. Got this in the end:


















Thanks for the advice!


----------



## iandroo888

lapped fx-60 and lapped cm heatsink.. sorry for unclear picture


----------



## ghost

very nice


----------



## NICO6ride6mosh6

so let me get this straight... I sand the top of the CPU until its completely copper first, then smooth it down? And what thermal compound do you recommend I use after lapping both CPU and HSF?


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NICO6ride6mosh6*


so let me get this straight... I sand the top of the CPU until its completely copper first, then smooth it down? And what thermal compound do you recommend I use after lapping both CPU and HSF?


just read the very first post , thats all you have to do this isnt rocket science


----------



## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


the processor has been lapped.. zalman (checked with mirror) is flat. has approx a 1500 grit finish. not as shiny as processor (2000 grit). i believe thats how all zalman's are.

also, not sure how to lap the heatsink. the bottom is "clamped" by two aluminum pieces that seems to be secured by two hex bolts. i cant seem to loosen the hex bolts. if i can, ill "relap" the heatsink.

btw, question for everyone, how do you hold a AMD processor when lapping? due to having pins, its hard to hold it like you would a lga775 processor.

ill post pictures when i can


use the plastic container the processor came in , just turn it upside down


----------



## NICO6ride6mosh6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boonie2*


just read the very first post , thats all you have to do this isnt rocket science










yeah sorry by the time i read through the entire thread i forgot what the original post said.

just an idea: a couple people mention covering the top with permanent marker so you will know it's sanded when it's all gone. this doesn't really accomplish anything because you would have to sand both the highs and the lows to get all the marker off, which isn't going to give you a flat surface. a better approach might be to lay the surface to be sanded on an ink pad or something similar so that the highest spots are marked. then these are obviously the spots that need the most attention. this process can be repeated at a lower grit until there are no high spots.


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## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NICO6ride6mosh6*


yeah sorry by the time i read through the entire thread i forgot what the original post said.

just an idea: a couple people mention covering the top with permanent marker so you will know it's sanded when it's all gone. this doesn't really accomplish anything because you would have to sand both the highs and the lows to get all the marker off, which isn't going to give you a flat surface. a better approach might be to lay the surface to be sanded on an ink pad or something similar so that the highest spots are marked. then these are obviously the spots that need the most attention. this process can be repeated at a lower grit until there are no high spots.


the marker works fine , youll know you have all the high/low spots taken care of when the silver is sanded off and the copper starts to show , you can see the progression thru your sanding , look afew pages back , somebody posted pictures before/1/2 way thru /finished with each grit of paper thru 2000


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## boonie2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NICO6ride6mosh6*


yeah sorry by the time i read through the entire thread i forgot what the original post said.

just an idea: a couple people mention covering the top with permanent marker so you will know it's sanded when it's all gone. this doesn't really accomplish anything because you would have to sand both the highs and the lows to get all the marker off, which isn't going to give you a flat surface. a better approach might be to lay the surface to be sanded on an ink pad or something similar so that the highest spots are marked. then these are obviously the spots that need the most attention. this process can be repeated at a lower grit until there are no high spots.


Sorry didnt mean to sound like an ASS







the marker works fine just a cross from top to bottom and side to side ,if you blot it on an ink pad youll load your paper with ink , youll know you have all the high/low spots taken care of when the silver is sanded off and the copper starts to show , you can see the progression thru your sanding , look afew pages back , somebody posted pictures before/1/2 way thru /finished with each grit of paper thru 2000 oops double post , sorry guyz and ladies


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## sLowEnd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
use the plastic container the processor came in , just turn it upside down









What if it's OEM?


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## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sLowEnd* 
What if it's OEM?

















they still come in some kind of packaging that protects the pins ..cmon now


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## Wattes

good guide, I am gonna try this later this week (need to find some 1500+ sandpaper). +REP


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## GuardianOdin

hey guys,sorry for not posting lately, I have some personal and work issue to take of, but I am keeping an eye on the thread. I'll be in and out for about a month.Just wanted to give an update and let everyone know I'm not ignoring anyone.


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## Darkshadow74

What razor blade trick? Sorry i have not read all the way through the post yet so I am just to the razor blade trick.


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## boonie2

This is over a month old , all you need to know is in the very 1st post ...it isnt rocket science


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## Darkshadow74

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boonie2* 
This is over a month old , all you need to know is in the very 1st post ...it isnt rocket science

Not saying its rocket science, I am just asking what the razor blade trick is, I am sorry but I dont see in in the opening post. and I havent read what it is other then its "razor blade Trick". sorry if i missed it. So, can someone explain it to me?


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## boonie2

there is no "razor blade trick" , they meant if you hold a razor blade flat on its edge youll be able to gage weather or not its flat..if you can see light from underneath then it isnt flat in those areas ... lapping is very simple to do , just read the 1st post , follow it and your done...just go slow from course grit to the very finest ...basically all your trying to do is make a perfectly flat surface , that transfers heat better..in heatsinks the bases are factory "milled" so they have tiny grooves and not uniformly flat..lapping , if done correctly , removes the imperfections and makes the surface totally flat {it should look like a mirror when your finished} same for lapping a CPU {THE TRICK TO LAPPING IS MAKING SURE ITS TOTALLY FLAT WHILE YOUR SANDING {lapping} IT}


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## Darkshadow74

ok thanks, I am sorry if that came across as snippy. I read and understand how to lap, just didnt know abou the razor thing to check the flatness. I am going to be lapping this weekend and want to make sure I know how to tell its right. I am going to practice first on 1 or 2 older cpu's and HS's I have laying around. Thanks.


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## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Darkshadow74* 
ok thanks, I am sorry if that came across as snippy. I read and understand how to lap, just didnt know abou the razor thing to check the flatness. I am going to be lapping this weekend and want to make sure I know how to tell its right. I am going to practice first on 1 or 2 older cpu's and HS's I have laying around. Thanks.

No problem it was my fault for bein snippy to begin with







couldnt belive i got a notice for this thread after so long 1 month and 16 pages for lapping...GOOD LUCK







just make sure to keep even pressure on it when your goin back and fourth , youll be good to go...if you do the cpu , if you have the case it came in turn it upside down over the pins , it helps hold it and keeps the pins from getting bent


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## GuardianOdin

hey Boonie,thanks for answering Darkshadow74's question.

I really need to add the "razorblade" thing to the first post. I'll be revising this puppy as soon as I have the time. I have been working doubles and doing commision work on the side. Not mush time to be on OCN other than thw occasional post.


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## boonie2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianOdin* 
hey Boonie,thanks for answering Darkshadow74's question.

I really need to add the "razorblade" thing to the first post. I'll be revising this puppy as soon as I have the time. I have been working doubles and doing commision work on the side. Not mush time to be on OCN other than thw occasional post.









n/p


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## Darkshadow74

Ok, went to Auto Zone and Walmart looking at everything but the glass, I found only chrome polish and stuff like that. What kind do you guys use that you dont have to order. When I could go to Walmart, lowes, Autozone etc somewhere like that to get.
Thanks.


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## boonie2

i went to an auto parts store and bought "wet sand paper" its what body shops use to fine sand cars before theyre painted , dont use it wet tho. as for the glass , you can just use a table top , make sure you tape the paper tight so it doesnt slide around .. another tip--when your all finished buy a polish called "BRASSO" walmart has it and home depot ... use that at the very end to really shine it up , the use alcohol to remove any traces after you wipe it off


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## Darkshadow74

Cool thanks, was wondering if you could use that kind of stuff, but wasnt sure. As far as Sandpaper, i found some at autopart store that is 220,340,400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000. I got the 400-2000 ones. Couldnt find a 2500 but i figure that 2000 if fine with the polish. Now just have to find some glass. Calling a glass place here in town they may just have scraps for cheap. if you know of something better feel free to suggest other then that I think I am close to doing some practice.


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## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Darkshadow74* 
Calling a glass place here in town they may just have scraps for cheap. if you know of something better feel free to suggest other then that I think I am close to doing some practice.

That's probably your best bet to be honest.You really only need a 6x6 piece of glass. The thicker the better though.


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## slickwilly

Has any one tried getting sand paper at a auto paint supply house?
The wet dry (silicon carbide) kind is available up to 4000, grits this high are used to remove imperfections in the finished paint before rubbing it out also called color sanding
rep to Guardian.
bump


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## Corpsman

Can't you use a lathe to do this?


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## GuardianOdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Corpsman* 
Can't you use a lathe to do this?

I suppose, but I have never done it and really can't suggest it. Simply becuase I have no experience with a lathe.


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## bowie

ok had a read and decided to do this to the media center as its a p4 3Ghz with hyperthreading,

Now every one nows just how hot these little fu^%$rs run at idle around 50degc and on load IE:high def movie 79degc.....
Well upon romoval i i cleaned up the serfice and got out the 400grit sandpaper

after the first 5 min of sanding the proseser i found the issue the p4 as dis[layed from the pic i managed to start getting to copper b4 i had even scratched the middle of the cpu







well there it is after running though all the grits i found the chepo 10 buck cpu was warped.

i have finaly got both lvl and striat upon testing it now sits on 27degc







witch is bloody briliant.
Pics below
Now i love images the help out alot sooooo there is alot lol
Temp Befor at idle








The Start








After 5 min of 400grit (as you can see the issue with the cpu)








40 min later still on 400grit








After 800grit








and after 1200grit









and after a polish and clean up









The heatsink b4 my molestoring








After 400grit








after 800grit








And 1200grit








And polished up

















And the finished product mmm pretty
















And the after temp at idle, now i have been in the it indestry for some years and have neva seen a P4 that low in temp with a $10 heat sink lol


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## be careful

what about an overlapped cooler? i get high temperatures than before so i guess i overlapped.
its deepcool ice edge 200u and it has direct heatpipe contact . is there a solution?


----------



## be careful

some one...


----------



## Redwoodz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *be careful*
> 
> what about an overlapped cooler? i get high temperatures than before so i guess i overlapped.
> its deepcool ice edge 200u and it has direct heatpipe contact . is there a solution?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *be careful*
> 
> some one...


overlapped is not possible,unless you sanded through a heatpipe or something. More than likely you are not flat or have improper T.I.M. mounting. Heat-pipes usually need a thin layer spread into the seems first.


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## par

hi people,

i need a suggest to lapping this:










specifically, I need to remove that little difference, on the side where there are those three holes.. this:



















the height of the 'step' I think it is less than 0.5 mm .. do you think I can proceed normally?

or, I was thinking to trying to put a strip of scotch transparent (which is very thin and with abrasive paper 400 should not ruin) on the rest of the base, and try to work a little only on the 'step', and then, after, continue lapping the entire base ..

also, because it is structurally very different from a tower cooler, I could lapping making him move on sandpaper only in this sense:










any suggest??

thnx!


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## Redwoodz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *par*
> 
> hi people,
> 
> i need a suggest to lapping this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> specifically, I need to remove that little difference, on the side where there are those three holes.. this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the height of the 'step' I think it is less than 0.5 mm .. do you think I can proceed normally?
> 
> or, I was thinking to trying to put a strip of scotch transparent (which is very thin and with abrasive paper 400 should not ruin) on the rest of the base, and try to work a little only on the 'step', and then, after, continue lapping the entire base ..
> 
> also, because it is structurally very different from a tower cooler, I could lapping making him move on sandpaper only in this sense:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any suggest??
> 
> thnx!


Well,if I was in a shop I would hit it with a belt sander. Using hand tools I would take a flat file to it.Put it in a vice and just make sure you keep it relatively flat,slowly grinding down the high spot until it is all the same height.Then you can finish with sandpaper and polish.


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## par

thnx mate! anyway, I already done


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## Redwoodz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *par*
> 
> thnx mate! anyway, I already done










Sorry took so long


----------



## par

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redwoodz*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry took so long


I appreciated equally


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## GuardianOdin

Sorry for being away for so long guys, life has been busy....too busy. Big big thanks to you Redwoodz







for answering questions. I'm going to try and be here more often. It's been close to two years since I could have any fun with PC's


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## incog

I'm curious, doesn't lapping the CPU's IHS void the warranty or something? You're getting rid of everything written on it by doing this, no?


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## ried16

just finished lapping my x5470 following this guide. my temps were a lot higher than what everybody was reporting with similar overclocks. i noticed when i removed my air cooler to switch to a aio water cooler that the tim on the ihs was not covering about a 1/2 inch square in the center. after lapping my temps dropped 14c. it must have been pretty warped. thanks much for this guide.


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## Curleyyy

I can't find any isopropyl, would mineral turpentine un1300 or methylated spirits 85% ethanol un 1170 work?


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## ForNever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Curleyyy*
> 
> I can't find any isopropyl, would mineral turpentine un1300 or methylated spirits 85% ethanol un 1170 work?


Dang, you can't just run to a drug store right quick? Here we have Walgreen's/CVS/Walmart etc. all carry isopropyl for use as an anticeptic. I would be worried about the items you listed leaving a residue, which would impede performance.


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## Curleyyy

I was able to find this ( http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=NA1066 ) and there's a store down the road, is this the type I'm after?


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## ForNever

That's the one


----------



## sakae48

i lapped my PC like 1-2 months ago..i got 5C drop on the CPU, 7C drop on the chipsets, and unknown







on the VRM


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## Happy Harry

This topic is of great interest as I am about to build a 6700K rig - parts on the bench just waiting for the rest to arrive. However I have a fairly new little box with an i3 4170 used for another purpose. That little box is in a reused case using the I3 internal for Graphics and is totally passively cooled with a Deep Wind Ice Wind Pro. The way that is done is by using cut up bits of card to ensure that there is no airflow coming in adjacent to the tower cooler - blocked the back plate holes in that area and then the card forces the power supply fan to draw through the cooling tower.

When it was assembled it was put together with Zalman ZM STG1 paste. Prime 95 temps maxed out @ 75 degrees.

Last night I took it apart and pulled out a straight edge and checked the cooler base. Now Deep Cool Claim all sorts of things for their technology including a claim of perfectly flat base. Well that turned out to be fiction. Its fairly flat but no where near actually flat. So out came a flat file and a few minutes later the base was flat. I couldn't bring myself to take to the cpu with the file ..... yet .... Reassembled using AS5 which apparently needs a few hours to settle in temps are down to ambient @ idle and 72 degrees Prime 95 and under load will possibly go lower yet under load. Cant be lower than ambient under no load and it didn't used to be quite that low.

Now the interesting thing is that a heavy flat file used carefully will not product a mirror finish like lapping will but it will produce a very accurate flat finish in a fraction of the time that lapping does. So the technique used was to have the file held on a flat surface and then with fairly light pressure draw the heat sink base across the file - files only cut in one direction. So the 6700K will be assembled and run for a while to make sure the chip is good. Then I intend to take to both the cooler and chip with a file because the result will be at least as flat as using sand paper and lapping but in a fraction of the time and with a fraction of the effort. The key being a decent sized heavy flat file because it needs to be wide enough that what is being drawn across it is largely totally supported so does not rock.

Another, but much faster way of doing the job.


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## Happy Harry

So moving forward. Still waiting for the 6700K parts, I have done some more work with air flows on the 4170 as well as gently swiveling from side to side to if you like allow the HS to better settle. The thought is that after the 5 or 6 hours of use including a couple of temperature cycles that it might better mate the surfaces.

As well as that some more effort to better direct airflow within the case and keep in mind the only fan in the entire system is that in the Power Supply Unit..

So temps @ 100% Load for 36 mins are now down @ 64 degrees max. Currently 61 degrees on one core and 59 degrees on the second. 4 threads running though.

I reckon that is a pretty good result for a few minutes with a File and some care with ducting the air flow. This is a dual core Intel Processor with a Heat Sink with no fan on it also doing the graphics at 100% load.

So here is my take on the improvement from the prework temps. And keep in mind they were still in the same case with no active cooling. So 75 degrees to 64 degrees. And my view is subjective because I cant prove what each step made as a difference.

1. 50%. Improving the airflow through the cooler. Just ducting it better and drawing from the front of the case thereby reducing the re circulation.
2. 25% Filing the base of the cooler so it was really flat.
3. 10% moving from Zalman to AS5
4. 15% moving the cooler around without demounting it to mate the surfaces better after a period of time.

And by the way, now up to 44 minutes and still max temp of 64 degrees. Currently 61 and 58 degrees. So whatever the reason given that I have not changed a single component and dont have a cooling fan in the system its still a stellar result. Today under normal load, still with no cooling fan, it didnt exceed 44 degrees.

So my next experiment because I need a low powered cooling solution to set up the new motherboard is going to be to take to a standard Intel i3 cooler and see if I can make it cool the 6700K well enough to set it up. BUT not overclock it. I just need to make sure that the OS and every bit of software will work before I install it as the main machine. Interestingly I have stuck a straight edge on the I3 cooler already and its not bad. Not flat but much better even though it only looks cast than the Deep Cool Ice Wind Pro.


----------

