# [Official] Phanteks PH-TC14PE News, Discussion and Owners thread



## AMD_Freak

Phanteks opened their cooling account with a bang, watching as their dual tower PH-TC14PE beat the Noctua D14 and Thermalright Silver arrow test after test, especially with good a hefty overclock applied (big OC FTW







). The Phanteks lead extends when tested in a case as the designers have informed me that these conditions are where the P.A.T.S technology activates and shows its potential to add to the heatsink's cooling muscle.
*Phanteks PH-TC14PE Club*

So here we have it, an early discussion thread as this is going to be a massive talking point for weeks to come with a scheduled release towards the end of September and RRP of £69.99 (MRSP $89.99) for the frosty white edition or £72.99 (MSRP $99.99) for the coloured editions.









Any questions you have about the cooler, feel free to ask.If you own a Phanteks Product post a picture and we will add you to the Club
CPU cooler Battle - Venomous-X vs vs Megahalems vs Phanteks

Phanteks Is now offering a Free PWM external adpt


Spoiler: Free PWM Adapter



http://phanteksusa.com/index.php?p=news&id=73





Spoiler: Phanteks PH-TC14PE OWNERS! 39 members



AMD_Freak
lucas4
tw33k
Captain318
Theultimateeye
Trev0r269
Notoryus
suzuki
caffeinescandal
rdasch3
doyll
sundrou
Derrickb1974
jcamp6336
eftj
BarryBGB
Lobsterman
Airrick10
.theMetal
JRuxGaming
tonus
Jamar2013
baan
gregoire
tonus
catbuster
jassilamba
odd1
SR-71 Blackbird
JJTT
blue-cat
X-PREDATOR
jcamp6336
BKinn
mmarkovich
Samurai707
PredatorPie
Tenchuu
Roadsama





Spoiler: Phanteks Owners Banner



Code:



Code:


[CENTER][URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/1106307/phanteks-ph-tc14pe-news-discussion-and-owners-thread/0_100] Phanteks Owners Club[/URL][/CENTER]







Spoiler: Phanteks Reviews



CPU cooler Battle - Venomous-X vs vs Megahalems Phanteks

Metku
*Vortez- inside a case*
*MadShrimps-inside a case*
Dexgo

Real World Labs

Technic3D - inside a case

http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1759/1/


----------



## Bing

Interesting new comer.

After reading those review web sites which all reviews were published almost at the same date







, the difference vs D14 and SA is exactly like D14 vs SA at many review sites, imo within margin of error among top performers.

Maybe we should wait more reviews to get better conclusion.

About the fan, why the heck they still making 3 wires fan which is considered obsolete for today pc cooling fan instead of pwm 4 wires fan, a disadvantage score from me.


----------



## lucas4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bing;14783503*
> Interesting new comer.
> 
> After reading those review web sites which all reviews were published almost at the same date
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , the difference vs D14 and SA is exactly like D14 vs SA at many review sites, imo within margin of error among top performers.
> 
> Maybe we should wait more reviews to get better conclusion.
> 
> About the fan, why the heck they still making 3 wires fan which is considered obsolete for today pc cooling fan instead of pwm 4 wires fan, a disadvantage score from me.


yes, 4-pin PWM fans would have been a nice feature. The fans are quiet at full speed, but still, the ability to have the PWM controlled would be very useful. Hopefully Phanteks will rectify this 'mistake' in the future.


----------



## itzzjason

looks like i'm getting this instead of SA


----------



## lucas4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itzzjason;14783869*
> looks like i'm getting this instead of SA


Both are very good coolers performance wise. It is clear to me which looks better tho







.

i like the way Phanteks make a big cooler (the D14 and SA are also big) but unlike the SA, it doesnt cause interference issues with the front fan and tall RAM. it was physically impossible to use my corsair dominator RAM with the SA because of the fan mounting method keeping the fan in a static position. With the Phanteks cooler, i was able to just place the fan clip higher up on the heatsink (same as the D14) for plenty of clearance.

price wise, the SA is cheaper, but i reckon that this Phanteks cooler will drop £5-10 within a few weeks of its launch


----------



## Coolking23

The Silver Arrow still represents the best value for money in my opinion, especially seeing this quote from Vortez:
Quote:


> The Phanteks PH-TC14PE does not come cheap and this is perhaps its main downfall, albeit not a major one if supreme performance is what you are after. At 79.90Euros (£70) for the silver edition and 84.90Euros (£75) for the coloured variants, the Phanteks is one of the most expensive coolers currently on the market. Against the likes of Prolimatech's Genesis (60Euros/£60), it represents good value since two quality fans are already bundled and even against the Noctua NH-D14 (72.90Euros/£65), the price difference is small. Certainly the extra premium warrants the performance benefits and aesthetics. However, once again Thermalright proves to be a worthy challenger with its Silver Arrow. At 49.90Euros/£50, it is a mere fraction of the Phanteks' price whilst still delivering the majority of the performance. In terms of value for money, the Thermalright Silver Arrow remains untouched so it remains to be seen how Phanteks aim to tackle that. Nonetheless, the PH-TC14PE is still appropriately priced and with a 5 year warranty to back it up, you get what you pay for.


I think I'll stick to my SA for now or wait for more reviews.


----------



## Spade616

man i am torn between the red and orange/copper one.. cannot wait till they get here.


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## mam72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002;14784077*
> On the side note, I just bought a SA and haven't opened it yet! Would it be wise to just sell this brand new and buy this Phanteks?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When will the release date be?


Keep the SA if you change you might only get 1 degree C drop out of it. The release is around September I think.

I know (from the reviews I have read) the Phantek has beaten the two major coolers but not by a lot.

I think if you want cooler you will have to use other methods like water. It seems that heatsinks are at there best and can get any better with current technology, although I would like to be proved wrong.


----------



## 161029

Anyways, I would say this is equal to the NH-D14 based on the Vortez test. I don't like the top plate but that's not something to drive somebody away when it performs so well.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore;14784374*
> Anyways, I would say this is equal to the NH-D14 based on the Vortez test. I don't like the top plate but that's not something to drive somebody away when it performs so well.


When you say you don't like the top plate, are you basing it on "aesthetics"?


----------



## windfire

Another top cooler arrives. However, I do not see its 1C advantage is thermally significant enough. Other factors like price, mounting mechanism friendliness, aesthetics...etc will probably make the decision for a potential buyer.

One peculiar thing is that I am not able to find info about this company, Phanteks Thermal Solutions. The first 5 pages in a Google search of 'Phanteks' return nothing. I simply cannot believe this company does not have a website. This is not a good first impression nor a good start for this new comer.


----------



## Elohim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *windfire;14784710*
> I simply cannot believe this company does not have a website. This is not a good first impression nor a good start for this new comer.


http://www.phanteks.com/

they also had a prototype tested a year ago in a german magazine, wich looked like a copy of the Megahalems:


----------



## HWI

The white one and red one look boss. If I didn't already have a Silver Arrow I'd definitely grab one of these. Maybe I'll pick one up for my secondary rig.


----------



## ehume

This was my response on the Vortez Forum:
Quote:


> I am disappointed.
> 
> OK, it's a fine cooler. It has four more fins than the D14 on each finstack, and since its fins are about the same size, it has greater surface area. And yet it barely beats the D14 and the SA when using the same fans. Perhaps the extra height of its finstack towers just go to waste because there isn't much fan up there.
> 
> It has five 8mm heatpipes. 5x8mm in addition to the additional surface area, and we get a marginal improvement. That said, the arrangement is aesthetically nice.
> 
> The mounting system looks like a combination of the best features of Noctua, Prolimatech and (like a cherry on top with that center screw) Thermalright. Nicely done.
> 
> The fans are held on by such a copy of the Noctua system that you have to wonder if Noctua wasn't involved here. And those "fan adaptors" (p6) - where do you get those? I've lost one of mine and I feel bad about contacting Noctua for such a small thing.
> 
> It's nice that they included three sets of clips.
> 
> So far, it seems to be an optimized D14. It barely beats the Silver Arrow and the D14 under fannage, but is quite impressive passively. But the ultimate disappointment:
> 
> WHY THE #%%#$&^^!!! DID THEY MAKE THEIR FANS VOLTAGE CONTROLLED???? Couldn't they learn from the mistake of Noctua and the success of Thermalright? What were they thinking? PWM is the only way to go. Even Gigabyte is abandoning Voltage control on at least some of its motherboards.
> 
> So, to make this heatsink worth getting you need to buy TY-140's to put in it. So close, and such a miss: this heatsink is not worth the extra money it costs. If you can get it for the price of a D14 it will be OK. But for the marginal improvement it gives with fans, not worth any extra price.
> 
> Worth the extra price only if you don't use fans in it.
> 
> But this: Sahil, thanks for the splendid review. As always, you do amazing work.
> 
> I'm waiting for Noctua to switch to PWM fans. That will change the landscape.


----------



## RobotDevil666

Great news , I'm currently looking for a good looking/performing and quiet cooler.
It looked like Noctua is my best choice , except it's not good looking








If this is as quiet as Noctua I'm sold , one last question is where to get it ?


----------



## lucas4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobotDevil666;14792096*
> Great news , I'm currently looking for a good looking/performing and quiet cooler.
> It looked like Noctua is my best choice , except it's not good looking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If this is as quiet as Noctua I'm sold , one last question is where to get it ?


atm it is available from caseking. i think it is being released for purchase at the end of September.
i found it very similar to the D14 in terms of noise


----------



## a pet rock

Just read some of the Vortez review. It's just really bothering me when they say it "easily pulls ahead of the competition" when it's up by .25C. That's close enough for margin of error.

All in all, looks like a very solid cooler, but it's just too expensive. I guess that extra 50% markup is for the colors.


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## lucas4

extra reviews have surfaced and been added


----------



## RobotDevil666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lucas4;14795532*
> atm it is available from caseking. i think it is being released for purchase at the end of September.
> i found it very similar to the D14 in terms of noise


Looks like they don't ship to England , at least there is no option in drop box to pick England when registering.


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## lucas4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobotDevil666;14796590*
> Looks like they don't ship to England , at least there is no option in drop box to pick England when registering.


Ah







. In that case, you may have to wait 2-3 weeks until retailers in the UK start to pick up stock.


----------



## Rapid7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobotDevil666;14796590*
> Looks like they don't ship to England , at least there is no option in drop box to pick England when registering.


Yes they do ship to the UK i've bought loads of gear from them.

German for Great Britain is Großbritannien look for that in the drop down box


----------



## RobotDevil666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rapid7;14796736*
> Yes they do ship to the UK i've bought loads of gear from them.
> 
> German for Great Britain is Großbritannien look for that in the drop down box


lol You're right , silly me















Thanks !!


----------



## Rapid7

No problem







it stumped me at first.


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## Helios1234

May I point out that my review was also inside a case... I'd have thought you knew that Lucas.


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## lucas4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Helios1234;14798302*
> May I point out that my review was also inside a case... I'd have thought you knew that Lucas.


I would have if it was listed in the "Test Setup" page at the time of publish







...

EDIT:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rapid7;14796736*
> Yes they do ship to the UK i've bought loads of gear from them.
> 
> German for Great Britain is Großbritannien look for that in the drop down box


thanks for your help







!


----------



## Elohim

a little summary of all the reviews i could find:

http://www.eteknix.com/cooling/phanteks-ph-tc14pe-dual-tower-cpu-cooler-review-2121/page8
*1.2K > Silver Arrow
4.3K > D14
*
http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/phanteks_ph_tc14pe_cpu_cooler_review,15.html
*0.5K > D14
0.75K > SA*

http://www.madshrimps.be/articles/article/1000209/Phanteks-PH-TC14PE-CPU-Cooler-Review/6#axzz1X1jZyR6M
*0.5K > D14*

http://www.technic3d.com/review/kuehlungen/1289-phanteks-ph-tc14pe-cpu-kuehler-im-test/1.htm
http://www.technic3d.com/review/kuehlungen/1173-thermalright-silver-arrow-cpu-kuehler-im-test/6.htm
*1.3K < SA*

http://www.dexgo.com/index.php?site=artikel/view.php&id=617&rubrik=Hardware&seite=5
*0.3K < SA
1.1K > D14*

http://www.rwlabs.com/article.php?cat=&id=505&pagenumber=6
*0.6K > SA
1.3K > D14*

http://metku.net/index.html?path=reviews/phanteks-ph-tc14pe/index_eng4
*2.5K > D14*

http://www.computerbase.de/artikel/gehaeuse-und-kuehlung/2011/test-phanteks-ph-tc14pe-cpu-kuehler/7/#abschnitt_vergleich_mit_serienbelueftung
*0.5K > D14*

http://www.hardwaremax.net/reviews/kuehler/313-test-phanteks-ph-tc14pe-high-end-twintower.html?start=6
*1.1K > SA
1.2K > D14*

So in all reviews where they compared it to the D14 it was always (slightly) better (0.5K - 4.5K).
In four revies it was better than the Silver Arrow (1.2K at most) and in two reviews the Silver Arrow was better than the Phanteks (1.3K at most).
Obviously the Phanteks is an excellent cooler, slightly better than the D14 and at least on par with the SA, but considering the fact that the Phanteks cooler uses louder fans compared to the Silver Arrow, wich also do not support PWM, to me the Silver Arrow still seems to be the better choice overall especially if you look at the price wich is 80€ for the Phanteks compared to the 50€ for the Silver Arrow.

The Phanteks does seem to have superb build quality and a very good mounting system, though, and the price will go down a bit, too obviously.
With better fans this could've been probably the clear #1.


----------



## ehume

Thanks for gathering and summarizing the reviews.

+rep


----------



## lucas4

Thanks elohim. Awesome work!

Have to agree with your excellent summary, that the SA is still an equally good choice.

Rep coming soon given







!!


----------



## a pet rock

By the way, your arrows are confusing me. I'm reading review one as:

1.2K greater than Silver Arrow.
4.3k greater than D14.

So I'm going down the list thinking, "What a waste, it's not as good and more expensive?"

It's all really helpful, just a thought for clarity's sake.


----------



## InFit

i must admit the looks of this cooler are impressive !!


----------



## -Id-

SA still seems to be the best choice of those three.

Now the Zalman CNPS12x on the otherhand: PWM, Twin Tower, 3 quiet fan set up, & priced at $9X.00

Ohohoho, cant wait to see if this generates good results. A definite buy, if its performance rivals the NH-D14 or SA.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Id-;14844301*
> SA still seems to be the best choice of those three.
> 
> Now the Zalman CNPS12x on the otherhand: PWM, Twin Tower, 3 quiet fan set up, & priced at $9X.00
> 
> Ohohoho, cant wait to see if this generates good results. A definite buy, if its performance rivals the NH-D14 or SA.


Big if. That cooler is designed to sell, not to cool.


----------



## -Id-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume;14847512*
> Big if. That cooler is designed to sell, not to cool.


----------



## faMine

This Phantek looks better than both the NH-D14 and the Silver Arrow with its default fans. I must say, the white would look good in my Phantom


----------



## Samurai Batgirl

I probably would have snatched this up without this thread. I'm probably sticking to the SA now (when I get bulldozer or whatever on black Friday).
Unless the CNPS12x actually pulls out of nowhere and wins.








I can't wait!


----------



## xeryus

Come on guys, you enter the market for the first time then make with it a discount.

Keep the price low for one or two months. And colours are nice, but I am burying it into the case. It's not a Picasso, you know.

On one hand we have the "future-proof" Silver Arrow and NH-D14 and on the other this, which is more expensive than both of them.

Bad marketing for a good product.


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## FyreBurn

I want to get one... but i can't find one anywhere


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## trumpet-205

Hopefully it comes out sooner. Really want this to be a serious competitors against Noctua and Thermalright. Especially Noctua because D14 is very ugly to me in terms of color.


----------



## ehume

And Noctua is just now releasing their PWM version: the NH-D14 SE2011 - it also works on the upcoming Intel Socket 2011. There is no reason now to get a non-PWM heatsink.


----------



## Ichigo27

already available at amazon, around 100 usd for the colored ones.


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## kevindd992002

Wow, how expensive could that be


----------



## JourdanWithaU

Anyone know how tall this thing sits on the motherboard? Thinking about getting one of these but I want to make sure that I have clearance in my case (500R) for this. It should fit, but I want to be sure.


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## tw33k

Added an Ultra Kaze 3000 and 2x TY-140s. Results will be posted here


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## tw33k

Since the Phanteks beat the Silver Arrow I've set it up with the 2x PH-F140 fans and a UK-3000




I forgot to color the zip ties black


----------



## Ragsters

How close is the color red of the Phanteks PH-TC14PE to lets say the red of an ATI 5850 video card? The pictures look like the red cooler is a little pink. Also is it possible to remove the top plate?


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## tw33k

I've only seen the red in pics and yeah, it does look a little pink. The top plate is not removable


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## tw33k

This really is a great cooler. After an hour of Prime small ffts...


----------



## AMD_Freak

Add me plz ...





Replacing the stock fans with some Bling



any suggestions before I get started?


----------



## tw33k

Don't do what I did the first time. Take the mobo out of the case and install it. Much easier


----------



## Captain318

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> Add me plz


How did the cooler work with your Ripjaws X? I just ordered this cooler with these sticks http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231456 for a new build and am starting to worry that the ram is too tall.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain318*
> 
> How did the cooler work with your Ripjaws X? I just ordered this cooler with these sticks http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231456 for a new build and am starting to worry that the ram is too tall.


I doubt they will fit but those heat spreaders come off pretty easily. I removed mine no problem. They don't do anything anyway


----------



## Captain318

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> I doubt they will fit but those heat spreaders come off pretty easily. I removed mine no problem. They don't do anything anyway


Well hopefully I don't have to mess with removing the Heat Spreaders but if I have to SO BE IT lol. This is for a 2011 build btw on a Rampage IV Extreme. I'm thinking I will have double trouble since I will have 2 DIMM's on each side of the CPU =/


----------



## Theultimateeye

Finally got mine installed. Jeez getting the two screws into the last bracket that goes in between the heat pipes was a pain in the ASS to install. Probably would've saved myself a lot of time just removing the mobo. I got the white version and i must say it looks awesome inside the switch 810. Time to up the multiplier now...


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theultimateeye*
> 
> Finally got mine installed. Jeez getting the two screws into the last bracket that goes in between the heat pipes was a pain in the ASS to install. Probably would've saved myself a lot of time just removing the mobo. I got the white version and i must say it looks awesome inside the switch 810. Time to up the multiplier now...


We want pics


----------



## Captain318

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> I doubt they will fit but those heat spreaders come off pretty easily. I removed mine no problem. They don't do anything anyway


I managed to get the cooler installed w/o having to remove those Heat Spreaders from the ram. I had to raise the fans up a hair bit but I made it. Can't believe my case door cleared it. Just barely but it did


----------



## tw33k

Cool. Where are the pics?


----------



## Captain318

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> Cool. Where are the pics?


----------



## Captain318

How you guys feel about the TIM that comes with this cooler? I used it instead of the tube of AS5 I have.


----------



## tw33k

I haven't used it


----------



## Trev0r269

I think I may have lost 2 of the fan clips. Does anyone know where I can get more?

Or do I try to just make 2 more?


----------



## Captain318

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trev0r269*
> 
> I think I may have lost 2 of the fan clips. Does anyone know where I can get more?
> Or do I try to just make 2 more?


Zip Ties FTW


----------



## Elohim

just ask their support, maybe they'll send you new ones...


----------



## Trev0r269

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain318*
> 
> Zip Ties FTW


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elohim*
> 
> just ask their support, maybe they'll send you new ones...


I need zip ties for so many random reasons at this point.









Someone from support sent me a PM, and if I can provide proof that I bought this HSF, then they will send me some more clips. That sounds like an incredibly awesome deal to me. In a world where so many companies has awful customer service, this sort of gesture really stands out.

I'm still getting zip ties next time I'm out.

Thanks guys!


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain318*
> 
> How did the cooler work with your Ripjaws X? I just ordered this cooler with these sticks http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231456 for a new build and am starting to worry that the ram is too tall.


sorry its been awhile since i looked at this thread


----------



## Captain318

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> sorry its been awhile since i looked at this thread


I got it to fit. Just had to raise the fans up about a half inch.








Thanks for the reply. Good lookin out


----------



## AMD_Freak

Guys I have taken over the Thread and will try to keep it updated with new Info and reviews also add new members as they come along ..Please post your Rig pictures with your Phantek


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trev0r269*
> 
> I think I may have lost 2 of the fan clips. Does anyone know where I can get more?
> Or do I try to just make 2 more?


Have you contacted customer support?


----------



## rdasch3

Hi guys, been a while since I have been on the forums. Between bachelors schoolwork for networking and work I have been too busy to get on, let alone game. Anyway, I am getting tired of my h70 and the high idle and load times for my OC. Plus, I could probably overclock further if I ever find the time with this cooler. Win win. I wanted something that performs like the noctua, but didn't look so damn ugly. This would match my stuff perfectly, the blu one of course.

My question. I need to know if it will fit on my p8p67ws revolution with the ripjawx x ram. I don't want to buy it just to have to send it back, but if no one knows I might just have to do that. I also need to make sure it wont run into my video cards. I am fairly sure if it fit in someones antec 1100 it should fit in my lian li.

Thanks for the help. Figured I would post up before work and look back later for answers.


----------



## AMD_Freak

The Phanteks Fits fine with my RipjawsX just have to move the fan over the RAM slot up a little bit, as far as the GPU fitting that shouldn't be an Issue


----------



## rdasch3

Awesome. damn h70 idles my 2600k at 4.7 at about 40 41. From what I keep reading, this thing will annihilate those temps and help it a bit.


----------



## Captain318

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdasch3*
> 
> Hi guys, been a while since I have been on the forums. Between bachelors schoolwork for networking and work I have been too busy to get on, let alone game. Anyway, I am getting tired of my h70 and the high idle and load times for my OC. Plus, I could probably overclock further if I ever find the time with this cooler. Win win. I wanted something that performs like the noctua, but didn't look so damn ugly. This would match my stuff perfectly, the blu one of course.
> My question. I need to know if it will fit on my p8p67ws revolution with the ripjawx x ram. I don't want to buy it just to have to send it back, but if no one knows I might just have to do that. I also need to make sure it wont run into my video cards. I am fairly sure if it fit in someones antec 1100 it should fit in my lian li.
> Thanks for the help. Figured I would post up before work and look back later for answers.


I have that board in one of my other rigs and know what you mean. It should clear ok but watch the fan clips. On my RIVE the clips will touch the back of my card and that's a no no so for now i moved the GPU down to a lower x16 slot. You can do the same with the P8P67 WS Revo. I have a Hyper 212+ on that board and moved the GPU down to the next x16 on that too.


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## rdasch3

Yeah, I thought about that. I am looking at the zalman 3 fan one as well. Are there any reviews comparing these two, both look good and people are claiming both perform on newegg. I can never find reviews pinning two coolers I spot against each other.


----------



## Captain318

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdasch3*
> 
> Yeah, I thought about that. I am looking at the zalman 3 fan one as well. Are there any reviews comparing these two, both look good and people are claiming both perform on newegg. I can never find reviews pinning two coolers I spot against each other.


I would still recommend this cooler. If the bottom clips interfere with your GPU and you don't want to relocate it, use a Zip Tie or a rubber push pin to secure the lower part of the fan's. The cooler itself should not be an issue


----------



## rdasch3

Yeah, something is telling me this one will outperform the zalman. Do you have a benchmark link anywhere comparing the two? I mean, I still like to see, and they both look damn good. I just cant decide. That blue theme is perfect for my current rig.


----------



## tw33k

You probably won't find a direct comparison but it's generally accepted now that the Phanteks is in the top 3 (Phanteks, Silver Arrow, NH-D14) The Silver Arrow SB-e will probably take over once more people have tested it


----------



## rdasch3

alright then, phanteks it is. Going to order it soon and hopefully find some time to put it in. I hope the thing fits without interfering, that would be nice. Thanks for the help. Cant wait to get those lower temps.


----------



## andre02

I think i'm going to wait for a single tower cooler from Phanteks , as i don't need that much performance (and size). This one is pretty much equal to the other top ones at same level of noise, this one is better overall , with more noise. I don't know how much this noise is sensible in real life, i've not owned aftermarket coolers lately to compare (only had one in 15 years, an Arctic Cooling.. good one). Other models will come soon from what i heard, hopefully the ones with single tower will not be far from this one in performance. I like the design of the Phanteks ,and since performance is very good too i think i'll go for it.


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andre02*
> 
> I think i'm going to wait for a single tower cooler from Phanteks , as i don't need that much performance (and size). This one is pretty much equal to the other top ones at same level of noise, this one is better overall , with more noise. I don't know how much this noise is sensible in real life, i've not owned aftermarket coolers lately to compare (only had one in 15 years, an Arctic Cooling.. good one). Other models will come soon from what i heard, hopefully the ones with single tower will not be far from this one in performance. I like the design of the Phanteks ,and since performance is very good too i think i'll go for it.


noise? where you getting noise from? mine is lots more silent then my GPUs


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> noise? where you getting noise from? mine is lots more silent then my GPUs


Mine is virtually silent as well


----------



## andre02

I got the info from this: http://www.xbitlabs.com/picture/?src=/images/coolers/phanteks-ph-tc14pe/zdiagrn-xbt.png

But you should know better cause you own it, i don't know how much this noise is "felt" in real life situation, it can very well not be heard at all, or it can be the fact that it does not run at full speed usually.


----------



## Elohim

well, a lot of people who bought it said the fans made a pretty loud and annoying clicking noise. So the seem to be a bit hit or miss.


----------



## andre02

You mean like when it changes speed (voltage) or all the time. If it's the first one it should be ok, cause it's not that often, right ?


----------



## AMD_Freak

the included fans are not PWM unless you got the Free PWM adapter off the Phanteks site.
I never plugged in the stock fans I wanted more bling and higher CFM. I really have no idea if they make noise, but the rated db is pretty low for 140mm fans and quieter then the fans I bought and I cant hear those at all, it would have to be really loud to hear over my GPUs


----------



## Captain318

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elohim*
> 
> well, a lot of people who bought it said the fans made a pretty loud and annoying clicking noise. So the seem to be a bit hit or miss.


No clicking noise here








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> the included fans are not PWM unless you got the Free PWM adapter off the Phanteks site.
> I never plugged in the stock fans I wanted more bling and higher CFM. I really have no idea if they make noise, but the rated db is pretty low for 140mm fans and quieter then the fans I bought and I cant hear those at all, it would have to be really loud to hear over my GPUs


Mine came with the PWM adapter in the box. Mine is setup with Qfan and it's very quiet until I start something very intensive like [email protected] or a stress test. Even then it's not what I would call loud.


----------



## Notoryus

Just moved the rig over to a CM storm trooper and upgraded to the Phanteks!

I got the red version, the fans look like they have a pink tint to them, but inside the case you can't tell...This cooler looks so good!









Took the 2600k up to 4.6 GHz and ran it on prime95 for about an hour. Maximum average temperature was 69 C across all cores. Ambient temperature is 24.4 C. Do those temperatures sound about right?

Also, I used MX-4 TIM, but is the Phanteks stuff any good?


----------



## AMD_Freak

4.5ghz 2500K Running IBT 51-53c/ Idles around 34-36c / ambient temps 73f - 22.7c on the Phantek TIM ..why I used it I don't know I have 3 tubes of MX2 sitting here, just wanted to try it I guess


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Notoryus*
> 
> Just moved the rig over to a CM storm trooper and upgraded to the Phanteks!
> I got the red version, the fans look like they have a pink tint to them, but inside the case you can't tell...This cooler looks so good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took the 2600k up to 4.6 GHz and ran it on prime95 for about an hour. Maximum average temperature was 69 C across all cores. Ambient temperature is 24.4 C. Do those temperatures sound about right?
> Also, I used MX-4 TIM, but is the Phanteks stuff any good?


more pics or it didn't happen







Added to the list


----------



## Captain318

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Notoryus*
> 
> Just moved the rig over to a CM storm trooper and upgraded to the Phanteks!
> I got the red version, the fans look like they have a pink tint to them, but inside the case you can't tell...This cooler looks so good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took the 2600k up to 4.6 GHz and ran it on prime95 for about an hour. Maximum average temperature was 69 C across all cores. Ambient temperature is 24.4 C. Do those temperatures sound about right?
> Also, I used MX-4 TIM, but is the Phanteks stuff any good?


That temp seems abit higher than I'd expect for a 2600k. I have mine in my other rig @ 4.5GHz 1.35v paired with a Hyper 212+ Push/Pull an get roughly those temps with Prime 95.


----------



## andre02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> 4.5ghz 2500K Running IBT 51-53c/ Idles around 34-36c / ambient temps 73f - 22.7c on the Phantek TIM ..why I used it I don't know I have 3 tubes of MX2 sitting here, just wanted to try it I guess


It could be a quality one though , some include high-quality TIM


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andre02*
> 
> It could be a quality one though , some include high-quality TIM


that's why I figured I would try it,so far its not to bad of temps and they stay low, never pushed it to far either 4.5ghz @1.30v works for me, next time ill try MX-2


----------



## Onepagebook

wow they just got the new forum built?

http://www.phanteksusa.com/forum/forum.php


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onepagebook*
> 
> wow they just got the new forum built?
> http://www.phanteksusa.com/forum/forum.php


Cool! Thanks


----------



## Notoryus

Hey guys

I reseated my heatsink, used the Phanteks TIM to change things up a bit...I felt really good about the installation. Re-tested at 4.6 GHz and temps still seem high at about 67 C across all cores with prime95 and hyper-threading on. Corresponds to a delta temp of 43 C. I was thinking it was an airflow problem in the case but with the side panel off I see no temperature difference. Any ideas? Or am I just being way too picky as usual...?

I took a couple pictures with my crappy phone camera








I've got both drive bay fans turned to intake from the front.





I will say this case runs quite a bit hotter than the HAF-X which it replaced. Top video card peaks at about 6 C higher in benchmarks, even with the 2 sickleflows on the side. Though, I still like this case much more.


----------



## Elohim

well it's a bit higher than the average. But every chip is different, so the only thing you can do is comparing it to your old cooler....


----------



## rdasch3

I would be happy with that. That means it probably wont go above 60 when gaming. My crappy h70 is way worse.

I really hope this thing clears on my motherboard. This thing is looking like it will be great for my overclock.


----------



## Ljanmi

I.m planing to pick one up. I read somewhere that a best comination would be to pair Phanteks nad 2 Thermalright TY140 - 140 mm and then u get silence + top performance. It cross my mind to pair SilverStone 140mm Air Penetrator, what would be the ultimate combination(performance + silence)?


----------



## tw33k

I have a 120mm Air Penetrator in the middle of my Phanteks. Lowered temps by 2c compared with TY-140 and stock fans. Air Penetrators are great fans for heatsinks


----------



## Ljanmi

On what cpu and what voltage? Do you think that 140mm would be even better performance and what about the noise comparing to Thermalright TY140 which is pretty much silent?


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elohim*
> 
> well, a lot of people who bought it said the fans made a pretty loud and annoying clicking noise. So the seem to be a bit hit or miss.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andre02*
> 
> You mean like when it changes speed (voltage) or all the time. If it's the first one it should be ok, cause it's not that often, right ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ljanmi*
> 
> On what cpu and what voltage? Do you think that 140mm would be even better performance and what about the noise comparing to Thermalright TY140 which is pretty much silent?


I've had three of these fans. Two of them produced a constant chugging noise, and it wasn't just when regulating voltage. They aren't impressive fans IMO, Thermalright has them beat with their TY-140 which runs quieter and cools better, but they look darn good which is why I've kept two of them in my rig.


----------



## Ljanmi

OK so I will definately go for Thermalright TY140. There are 2 different coolors, are there any difference?

1.
www.ebay.de/itm/140x160x26-5-Thermalright-TY140-1300U-m-21dB-A-Blau-/220897164199?pt=Modding&hash=item336e7f3ba7

2.
www.ebay.de/itm/Thermalright-TY-140-Gehauselufter-140-mm-200200114-/200725408844?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item2ebc2aac4c

And is there a difference if I put 3 Thermalright TY140, if yes what about the noise?


----------



## HothBase

All TY-140 are the same AFAIK. The difference between those pictures are probably just the result of different lighting conditions.


----------



## Ljanmi

OK and what about cons and pros for 2xTY-140 v.s. 3xTY-140


----------



## HothBase

Three fans will run cooler by 1-2 degrees, but it'll generate more noise and require an additional fan header. That's pretty much it. And the difference in aesthetics, which comes down to personal preference. And then there's the cost of course, but that's obvious.


----------



## Ljanmi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HothBase*
> 
> Three fans will run cooler by 1-2 degrees, but it'll generate more noise and require an additional fan header. That's pretty much it. And the difference in aesthetics, which comes down to personal preference. And then there's the cost of course, but that's obvious.


What would u recommend when put all together like aesthetics etc...


----------



## HothBase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ljanmi*
> 
> What would u recommend when put all together like aesthetics etc...


Like I said, it comes down to personal preference, but I'd say 3 fans would probably look better than 2, if that's what you're asking. Not sure if I have any other general tips.


----------



## Ljanmi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HothBase*
> 
> Like I said, it comes down to personal preference, but I'd say 3 fans would probably look better than 2, if that's what you're asking. Not sure if I have any other general tips.


Probably I'll put 3 fans then, I'll think about it some more but probably







Thanks so much for helping me, I'll keep u guys posted when I put my hands on Phanteks and TY-140s


----------



## HothBase

Sounds good.


----------



## rdasch3

I got mine installed. It cleared onm y board fine. The fan clips came really close and are a fraction of a centimeter away from touching my video card, but I cleared it without having to move them barely. Idle temps dropped by about 6 degrees, and load temperatures during a quick intel burn didnt pass 70, which means gaming shouldnt drag it past 60. With my h70 my load went all the way up to 85 with 18 hours of prime and you will see my submission in the sandy stable club linked in my sig. so about 6 degree idle difference, and 15 degree load difference. Damn good.


----------



## tw33k

Excellent! Got pics?


----------



## EastCoast

I noticed a review using Thermalright TY-140s with that HS and they say they worked better then the Phanteks PH-F140TS (stock fans). Is that true? I didn't read all 11 pages so I'm not sure if that was discussed before.
Review


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EastCoast*
> 
> I noticed a review using Thermalright TY-140s with that HS and they say they worked better then the Phanteks PH-F140TS (stock fans). Is that true? I didn't read all 11 pages so I'm not sure if that was discussed before.
> Review


I couldn't tell you , I installed 2 Prolimatech Red Vortex 14 when I got mine for more CFM


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdasch3*
> 
> I got mine installed. It cleared onm y board fine. The fan clips came really close and are a fraction of a centimeter away from touching my video card, but I cleared it without having to move them barely. Idle temps dropped by about 6 degrees, and load temperatures during a quick intel burn didnt pass 70, which means gaming shouldnt drag it past 60. With my h70 my load went all the way up to 85 with 18 hours of prime and you will see my submission in the sandy stable club linked in my sig. so about 6 degree idle difference, and 15 degree load difference. Damn good.


pictures or it didn't happen Gratz on a mean cooler


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EastCoast*
> 
> I noticed a review using Thermalright TY-140s with that HS and they say they worked better then the Phanteks PH-F140TS (stock fans). Is that true? I didn't read all 11 pages so I'm not sure if that was discussed before.
> Review


I ran mine with 2x Phanteks fans and then with 2x TY-140. No difference in temps. The only advantage with TY-140s is that they are PWM


----------



## rdasch3

The phanteks came with a pwm cable in the box. I have a picture, but I can get better ones. I will post when I get a chance to take them.

Also, it should be noted I had to bend the bracket a little bit to get the spring screws to lineup right. Apparently they measured the thing slightly long, but it was an easy fix.


----------



## EastCoast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> I ran mine with 2x Phanteks fans and then with 2x TY-140. No difference in temps. The only advantage with TY-140s is that they are PWM


No difference? That's different from the review, thanks.


----------



## Ljanmi

Now I'm totally puzzled,


----------



## tw33k

*Phanteks with stock fans*


*Phanteks with 2x TY-140*


----------



## suzuki

proud owner of Phanteks cooler.I've just finsihed a review with it.
Review CPU Coolers Battle - Venomous-X vs Phanteks vs Megahalems

Test conditions:

TDP-uri

Etapa 1 = 4.0 GHz @ 1.256V BIOS, 1.284V Multimetru, QPI @ 1.255V, Mem @ 1.65V
Etapa 2 = 4.0 GHz @ 1.406V BIOS, 1.442V Multimetru, QPI @ 1.255V, Mem @ 1.65V
Etapa 3 = 4.0 GHz @ 1.593V BIOS, 1.651V Multimetru, QPI @ 1.255v, Mem @ 1.65V - Extreme TDP
Turaţii:

1 x 1200 RPM
2 x 1200 RPM
1 x 2700 RPM
1 x 4400 RPM
2 x 4400 RPM

you will find more in the article,use google translate or just see the sliders,there are pretty suggestive,


----------



## caffeinescandal

I have this cooler as well. Really love it!


----------



## AMD_Freak

Updated ...thanks guys throw up a pic we want to see your stuff


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suzuki*
> 
> proud owner of Phanteks cooler.I've just finsihed a review with it.
> Review CPU Coolers Battle - Venomous-X vs Phanteks vs Megahalems
> Test conditions:
> TDP-uri
> Etapa 1 = 4.0 GHz @ 1.256V BIOS, 1.284V Multimetru, QPI @ 1.255V, Mem @ 1.65V
> Etapa 2 = 4.0 GHz @ 1.406V BIOS, 1.442V Multimetru, QPI @ 1.255V, Mem @ 1.65V
> Etapa 3 = 4.0 GHz @ 1.593V BIOS, 1.651V Multimetru, QPI @ 1.255v, Mem @ 1.65V - Extreme TDP
> Turaţii:
> 1 x 1200 RPM
> 2 x 1200 RPM
> 1 x 2700 RPM
> 1 x 4400 RPM
> 2 x 4400 RPM
> you will find more in the article,use google translate or just see the sliders,there are pretty suggestive,


Ill post your review on the OP if you don't mind.


----------



## suzuki

no problem.

also another result
3x1200 rpm
ambient 14 degrees Celsius
T.I.M. Noctua Nh H1.
Cpu Cooler-Phanteks PH-TC14PE












don't mind the position of the vents,they were positioned like this only for pics.


----------



## rdasch3

I will see if I can get pictures of mine later. The difference in cooling is great. Not sure how you got it to stay under 40 degrees in that screenshot a couple pages back. That seems impossible for air.

Mine goes slightly above 60 while gaming while before it would go to about mid 70's. Close to a 15 degree difference. I have yet to run prime for about an hour just to see.

Between schoolwork, work, saint patty's, and cleaning up my desk for newly found game time I haven't had time to get pics yet but they are on the way. My desk is all nice and clean and ready for them too. I hope you guys enjoy good cable management.


----------



## rdasch3




----------



## tw33k

Very nice rdasch3!


----------



## rdasch3

Took me forever to post them, but what matters is I got them in


----------



## justasomeone

Hello, I'm interested in this CPU cooler. Would it fit in my case? Corsair 300R, Maximus IV Gene-z, Cosrsair 8gb Low profile


----------



## tw33k

Yep..it'll fit

AMD FX-8150 @ 4.5GHz 1.56v. Maximum core temp was 47c with an average temp of 43c under full load. I used Antec Formula 7 thermal compound and have a UK-3000 and a Silverstone AP-121 in push/pull on my Phanteks. Great cooler.


----------



## Ljanmi

I got mine today(white one). Why is PH-F140 Premium 140mm so expensive comparing to Thermalright TY-140. General opinion is that Thermalright TY-140 is better vent(silence/performance)


----------



## HothBase

Does anyone have pics of the PWM adapter for the fans? I'm very curious to see how that works.


----------



## AMD_Freak

I ordered mine when the "free" offer came out still haven't heard anything, Guess its time to contact them again.


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ljanmi*
> 
> I got mine today(white one). Why is PH-F140 Premium 140mm so expensive comparing to Thermalright TY-140. General opinion is that Thermalright TY-140 is better vent(silence/performance)


no telling maybe cuz they colored ?


----------



## Ljanmi

One more question. Do I get lower temps if I lap
Phanteks?

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk


----------



## Elohim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ljanmi*
> 
> One more question. Do I get lower temps if I lap
> Phanteks?
> Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk


the only one who can answer the question would be you after testing it for yourself









from my own experience it's not really worth it to lap the CPU/Heatsink


----------



## AMD_Freak

from what I understand the Phanteks has a small curve so when its mounted it lays flat so I would say don't do it


----------



## Ljanmi

Well I would lap only the heat sink not a CPU, If I'm informed well I should get about 2 degree Celsius lower temp(in max load of course)







Anyway I feel so enthusiastic about Phanteks and I want to do everything possible to upgrade it and get max lower temps on air :O


----------



## tw33k

Lapping is a lot of work for very little reward. I wouldn't bother. If you want lower temps put a fan pointing at the back of the CPU


----------



## Captain318

I had to ditch the bottom fan clips to install my top GPU or they would short the back of the card. I have the middle fan shimmed in tight atm but trying to come up with something (not Zip Ties) to hold in the front fan more securely. Ideas?


----------



## tw33k

Why not zip ties? They do the job perfectly


----------



## Captain318

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> Why not zip ties? They do the job perfectly


Aesthetics


----------



## Ljanmi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> Lapping is a lot of work for very little reward. I wouldn't bother. If you want lower temps put a fan pointing at the back of the CPU


I first time hear for that "trick". How many degrees Celsius should I expect if I put TY-140 for example at the back of the CPU(back side of the motherboard if I understood correctly) at max load?

P.S.
I dont expect precise answer of course just to get a picture what about I can expect from putting an extra vent at the back


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain318*
> 
> I had to ditch the bottom fan clips to install my top GPU or they would short the back of the card. I have the middle fan shimmed in tight atm but trying to come up with something (not Zip Ties) to hold in the front fan more securely. Ideas?


someone made some or made a change to the originals, trying to find the thread, Im not even sure if it was this site or not


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain318*
> 
> Aesthetics


Use blue ones (or color them yourself)


----------



## Captain318

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> Use blue ones (or color them yourself)


Yea I tried some blue ones yesterday and it looked tacky to me


----------



## caffeinescandal

Better late than never. lol


----------



## Ljanmi

Will somebody answer me about puting the vent at the back of the board. Personaly I think thats a myth because I did put a fan at the back of the video card and load temps of the GPU didn't change a bit, not for a degree







so why woul be any different with the CPU story


----------



## Ragsters

I don't know if you guys saw this but the new black color PH-TC14PE_BK is out!

http://phanteksusa.com/index.php?p=products_3&id=25&cate=1


----------



## Ragsters

Anybody have this cooler with a FT02 case?


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ljanmi*
> 
> Will somebody answer me about puting the vent at the back of the board. Personaly I think thats a myth because I did put a fan at the back of the video card and load temps of the GPU didn't change a bit, not for a degree
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so why woul be any different with the CPU story


It's definitely not a myth. I cut a hole and mounted a 120mm aimed at the back of my CPU and temps went down ~4-5c. That area gets quite quite warm under load


----------



## Ljanmi

That would be fantastic. I cannot belive what I hear. I'll do that and put ty-140 as a fan that should be the ultimate solution ;-)

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk


----------



## tw33k

I've had to order a 120,,x120mmx*12mm* Yate Loon fan tho because the fan I have there atm is too big and I can't close the side panel. I have it mounted outside the case.

Back on topic...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I don't know if you guys saw this but the new black color PH-TC14PE_BK is out!
> http://phanteksusa.com/index.php?p=products_3&id=25&cate=1


I want


----------



## Captain318

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I don't know if you guys saw this but the new black color PH-TC14PE_BK is out!
> http://phanteksusa.com/index.php?p=products_3&id=25&cate=1


OMG that is beautiful. I would have grabbed that one if it was out when I did my build.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ljanmi*
> 
> Will somebody answer me about puting the vent at the back of the board. Personaly I think thats a myth because I did put a fan at the back of the video card and load temps of the GPU didn't change a bit, not for a degree
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so why woul be any different with the CPU story


It definitely helps. My case has a spot for a 120mm fan there but I removed it since it was dusting up the back of my MB so much. But yea, I seen ~2c/4c lower temps


----------



## tw33k

Anyone seen the black version for sale? If so can you provide a link?


----------



## Ljanmi

What country is Company Phanteks from, Germany?


----------



## andre02

Holland , with the factory in Taiwan


----------



## jackrabb1t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> Anyone seen the black version for sale? If so can you provide a link?


I've been looking everywhere and haven't found anything yet. I have no idea how long it will take to get these into retail channels. Will definitely post here if I do found something.


----------



## tw33k

Yeah...me too. Thanks


----------



## Ragsters

Do any of you guys have this bad boy installed in an FT02?


----------



## jbmayes2000

What are the odds the PH-TC14PE fits on the upcoming Z77 Sabertooth?:


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbmayes2000*
> 
> What are the odds the PH-TC14PE fits on the upcoming Z77 Sabertooth?:


the only issue I can see with the picture is maybe the RAM height again it depends on the RAM you choose, Its hard to tell the height of HS on the left
the all Black Phanteks would look sweet on that board


----------



## jbmayes2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> the only issue I can see with the picture is maybe the RAM height again it depends on the RAM you choose, Its hard to tell the height of HS on the left
> the all Black Phanteks would look sweet on that board


That's the plan! I have a set of low profile ram picked out so that part should be ok, I'm worried about the left side more so.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbmayes2000*
> 
> That's the plan! I have a set of low profile ram picked out so that part should be ok, I'm worried about the left side more so.


The left side doesn't look any higher than on my board. It just means if you use a fan there it'll sit a little bit higher than the others. Should be OK.


----------



## jackrabb1t

Looks like Newegg has the PH-TC14PE_BK in stock!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709011


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackrabb1t*
> 
> Looks like Newegg has the PH-TC14PE_BK in stock!
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709011


I wish they delivered to Australia. It should be on Amazon soon hopefully


----------



## jbmayes2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jbmayes2000*
> 
> That's the plan! I have a set of low profile ram picked out so that part should be ok, I'm worried about the left side more so.
> 
> 
> 
> The left side doesn't look any higher than on my board. It just means if you use a fan there it'll sit a little bit higher than the others. Should be OK.
Click to expand...

Sweet! I hope so!


----------



## DeadSkull

Has anyone switched to Phanteks from NH-D14? How flat is the base on Phanteks PH-TC14PE ?


----------



## Ljanmi

Yeah, how flat is it, does it need laping or no benefit from laping at all? Somebody must have laped his Phanteks and tested it before and after?

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ljanmi

I'm ordering upgrade vents for my new Phanteks today online. Which vents are superior Thermalright TY 141 - 140 mm or Thermalright TY140 - 140 mm. I want hte same or better performance as tested here http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/phanteks-ph-tc14pe_5.html . Help appreciated


----------



## tw33k

Do you mean fans?


----------



## Ljanmi

Yeah, fans


----------



## tw33k

Do you want quiet or highest performance?


----------



## Ljanmi

Well best performance/noise ratio. I was absolutely sure about ty-140 and then I heard from user Otterclock about that annoying clicking problem http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JoKAsFzXSa0 . Apparently as I read the some german test every ty-140 has that clicking problem more or less







. So now I'm looking at ty-141 but there are no test compering ty140 to ty-141 and I have no idea any more what is best for my Phanteks


----------



## tw33k

I have 2x TY-140s and neither of them make any "clicking" noise. I tested the Phanteks with stock fans and with TY-140s and there was no difference.


----------



## Ljanmi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> I have 2x TY-140s and neither of them make any "clicking" noise. I tested the Phanteks with stock fans and with TY-140s and there was no difference.


Yeah, no difference. Set your cpu voltage to let say to 1,45V and OC to 4,7GHz start Linx and then test fans under heavy load. Then you will see difference if there is any. Under lite voltage and OC there is no significant difference anyway person who buys a supercooler will definitely not keep cpu under lite OC


----------



## tw33k

I have Phanteks, Silver Arrow and SB-E. I will be testing all 3 with all the different fans. I run my Phanteks with a UK-3000 and an AP-121. CPU @ 4.5GHz 1.4v. Max core temp is 41c under load


----------



## Ljanmi

ok


----------



## jackrabb1t

Got my black Phanteks in today.







Unfortunately the fan housings are white, and they need to be black for my build. I'm currently in the process of painting them (the picture below shows them in primer). Hopefully tomorrow evening I should get it installed in my rig.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackrabb1t*
> 
> Got my black Phanteks in today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately the fan housings are white, and they need to black for my build. I'm currently in the process of painting them (the picture below shows them in primer). Hopefully tomorrow evening I should get it installed in my rig.


Where did you get it from?


----------



## jackrabb1t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Where did you get it from?


Newegg


----------



## Ranguvar

The metal bracket that holds the heatsink in place on top of the CPU was shipped to me in a broken state -- it is flipped, so that it is impossible to affix to the CPU.

I have a picture of the issue here: http://www.box.com/s/237622fbb314166f9261

I'm really annoyed right now, wasted several hours of tooling around with my PC and trying to figure out what was messed up.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ranguvar*
> 
> The metal bracket that holds the heatsink in place on top of the CPU was shipped to me in a broken state -- it is flipped, so that it is impossible to affix to the CPU.
> I have a picture of the issue here: http://www.box.com/s/237622fbb314166f9261
> I'm really annoyed right now, wasted several hours of tooling around with my PC and trying to figure out what was messed up.


Bummer. Have you contacted them yet? I'm sure if you send them that pic they'll send a new one ASAP


----------



## Ranguvar

I tried to RMA but it directed me to a blank page, so I'm not sure if it sent or not.

Anyone know if there's an auto-mail to confirm an RMA?

Less annoyed now -- I know it'll be a great cooler when I've got it working, was just really excited to start playing with it!
That and I spent so long trying to figure it out, sure it must be something I was doing wrong.


----------



## rdasch3

When you get one that is made the right way, it might be helpful to know that I had to bend mine slightly to get the screws to line up. They seemed to have overmeasured it slightly.


----------



## Ljanmi

tw33k when will you post the results of the fan testing? I can hardly wait to see it


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ljanmi*
> 
> tw33k when will you post the results of the fan testing? I can hardly wait to see it


I'm starting the tests today. I can't wait either. I've just done the Phanteks with a UK-3000 and AP-121. I'm about to test the Phanteks with stock fans. Then I'll hook up the SB-E


----------



## Ljanmi

Please test Phanteks with 2 ty-140 V.S. Phanteks with ty-141 (audio/performance test)


----------



## tw33k

With 2 UK-3000s running it's impossible to test the sound coming from any of my fans. I also only have 1 TY-141 so can't test vs TY-140s


----------



## Ljanmi

OK then, can you test noise/performance with one cooler on Phanteks ty-140 V.S. ty-141 . Turn off all other fans in the computer case and open the side of the case when you test it


----------



## Elohim

dude, there is no massive difference, the TY-141 is slightly louder and the performance is pretty much identical.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ljanmi*
> 
> OK then, can you test noise/performance with one cooler on Phanteks ty-140 V.S. ty-141 . Turn off all other fans in the computer case and open the side of the case when you test it


lol...no I won't be doing that. Apart from anything else, it won't be worth the hassle as both fans perform pretty much the same


----------



## AMD_Freak

yea turn off your GPU fans and test it


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> yea turn off your GPU fans and test it


pmsl


----------



## Ljanmi

You guys are not serious, if I have it I would tested it right


----------



## Ljanmi

Anybody knows what would be the best performing but not corrosive thermal paste for Phanteks? Here is translated german test http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?act=url&hl=sr&ie=UTF8&prev=_t&rurl=translate.google.rs&sl=de&tl=en&u=http://www.hardwaremax.net/charts/waermeleitpasten.html&usg=ALkJrhhuhgxUo-u3Xl8U9PX3jGQ20X55Wg, is base of Phanteks copper, if so then phobya lm shoul be the best solution but I don't know anything about thermal pastes


----------



## AMD_Freak

I use ARCTIC MX-2


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ljanmi*
> 
> Anybody knows what would be the best performing but not corrosive thermal paste for Phanteks? Here is translated german test http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?act=url&hl=sr&ie=UTF8&prev=_t&rurl=translate.google.rs&sl=de&tl=en&u=http://www.hardwaremax.net/charts/waermeleitpasten.html&usg=ALkJrhhuhgxUo-u3Xl8U9PX3jGQ20X55Wg, is base of Phanteks copper, if so then phobya lm shoul be the best solution but I don't know anything about thermal pastes


You're going to get a lot of different answers. You need to do some research and make your own decision. Nobody can tell you which is "best"

Also...test results can be found here


----------



## ca.j.stokes

Awesome thread. I'm about to pull the trigger on the black one. Quick question, though. Would it be possible to move the fans down a bit so that the full height of the cooler is 160mm rather than 171mm?


----------



## AMD_Freak

sure if your ram heat-sinks don't hit only the one over the ram needs adjusting on mine


----------



## ca.j.stokes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> sure if your ram heat-sinks don't hit only the one over the ram needs adjusting on mine


Nah, I'l be getting a pair of Samsung 30nm so height isn't a worry for me


----------



## AMD_Freak

ca.j.stokes we are expecting pictures


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ca.j.stokes*
> 
> Awesome thread. I'm about to pull the trigger on the black one. Quick question, though. Would it be possible to move the fans down a bit so that the full height of the cooler is 160mm rather than 171mm?


Where are you getting the black version from?


----------



## ca.j.stokes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> ca.j.stokes we are expecting pictures


Definitely. In the meantime, this is what she'll be sitting on


----------



## tw33k

Adding a third fan makes no improvement (only .4c cooler and well within the margin of error)


----------



## Ranguvar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> Where are you getting the black version from?


Newegg has it: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709011


----------



## Ranguvar

Just got my replacement mounting bracket.
Installation could have been better, but I like it more than the 212+ install, and the MASSIVE cutout in my new case (Storm Trooper) means I didn't have to remove the motherboard.

Playing with an i7-2600K at 5GHz (1.5V, will lower until unstable), barely gets above 70C (212+ was getting to 90C like this, at 4.5GHz was in low-mid 80s).

I think I'm in love with this cooler!


----------



## BarryBGB

Just got my PH-TC14PE -RD cooler in yesterday and removed the Intel Liquid Cooler. Mine came with the PWM adapter as well.
Absolutely the largest fan I have ever purchased. The instructions were absolutely horrible and also confusing.
I had to mount it twice.
Hint: Do not place the mounting bracket on the cooler first as in the instructions. First fit both the cross brackets and then test the alignment of the mounting bracket before attaching to the cooler.
This will save you some thermal compound and some headaches.

I was waiting on shipment of MX-2 thermal compound but it arrived 1 hour after I had the fan installed. I may remove it and use the MX-2 instead of the Artic Silver-5 that is on there now.

These fans are great. Very quite on my system. Everything right now is stock speeds but will be doing some OC tonight.
I did notice that when the power is turned off, these fans keep spinning for 4-5 seconds longer than any of the other fans in the system. A sign of some good bearings I guess.

I am lucky that I have a Thermaltake Level 10 GT case with plenty of room and I did my research before buying either this or the NH-D14 fan. I went with the Gskill ram so the height is not a problem.

My board is Sabertooth X79.


----------



## phez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ca.j.stokes*
> 
> Definitely. In the meantime, this is what she'll be sitting on


ive been googling around seeing if someone has tried this setup. im looking to do this build too. hopefully it will fit!


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BarryBGB*
> 
> Just got my PH-TC14PE -RD cooler in yesterday and removed the Intel Liquid Cooler. Mine came with the PWM adapter as well.
> Absolutely the largest fan I have ever purchased. The instructions were absolutely horrible and also confusing.
> I had to mount it twice.
> Hint: Do not place the mounting bracket on the cooler first as in the instructions. First fit both the cross brackets and then test the alignment of the mounting bracket before attaching to the cooler.
> This will save you some thermal compound and some headaches.
> I was waiting on shipment of MX-2 thermal compound but it arrived 1 hour after I had the fan installed. I may remove it and use the MX-2 instead of the Artic Silver-5 that is on there now.
> These fans are great. Very quite on my system. Everything right now is stock speeds but will be doing some OC tonight.
> I did notice that when the power is turned off, these fans keep spinning for 4-5 seconds longer than any of the other fans in the system. A sign of some good bearings I guess.
> I am lucky that I have a Thermaltake Level 10 GT case with plenty of room and I did my research before buying either this or the NH-D14 fan. I went with the Gskill ram so the height is not a problem.
> My board is Sabertooth X79.


let us know how it compares to the Intel water cooler


----------



## Ranguvar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> let us know how it compares to the Intel water cooler


The Intel liquid cooler is crap from what I've heard -- worse than the Corsair ones, which are worse than the Phanteks.


----------



## Ranguvar

Can any PH-TC14PE + i5-2500K/i7-2600K/2700K owners give me some temperatures?
Preferably either on all stock or at a specific voltage + clock so I can compare.
Thinking I might have a bad seat.

Running at 1.52V or thereabouts and 5GHz, temperatures approach 90C.
I won't be doing that 24/7, but that seems high, even for such voltage.


----------



## AMD_Freak

[email protected]/1.3v 40c idle / 50c gaming- 27c ambient


----------



## Ranguvar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> [email protected]/1.3v 40c idle / 50c gaming- 27c ambient


Thanks. Is that 1.3V set, or 1.3V actually measured under load?


----------



## AMD_Freak

set via bios


----------



## doyll

Hi!
New here.
Really nice thread!
Thinking to upgrade my HSF from Noctua NH-u12P SE to PH-TC14PE and wondering how the "PWM external adapter" works. Have scoured web and can find nothing other the Phanteks is now including it and will give it to anyone who has HSF and wants it.
Thanks In advance

PS: Define R2; GA-EX58-UD3R; i7 920 @ 3.5GHz; NH-U12P w/ 2x TY TR-140; HD 6570 w/ Scythe Setsugen cooler; Audigy 2 ZS; TX750 v2


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Hi!
> New here.
> Really nice thread!
> Thinking to upgrade my HSF from Noctua NH-u12P SE to PH-TC14PE and wondering how the "PWM external adapter" works. Have scoured web and can find nothing other the Phanteks is now including it and will give it to anyone who has HSF and wants it.
> Thanks In advance
> PS: Define R2; GA-EX58-UD3R; i7 920 @ 3.5GHz; NH-U12P w/ 2x TY TR-140; HD 6570 w/ Scythe Setsugen cooler; Audigy 2 ZS; TX750 v2


the one they sent me, having bought the Cooler before they included them in the package, Is like a 2 in 1 adapter plug like a sleeved fan wire


----------



## HothBase

Do you have a pic? I also asked about this PWM adapter a couple of weeks back but nobody responded.


----------



## tw33k

You can request a free PWM adapter from Phanteks here if anyone is interested

I was looking for the black version on ebay and check this out I tried contacting the seller to check if it was a typo but I was unable to. He can't be serious


----------



## doyll

Thanks AMD_Freak

I may be all wet, but my understanding of 4 pin PWM fans is they are not interchangeable with 3 pin voltage controlled fans. Something about the speed signal to motherboard, then motherboard signal for 12v pulse to fan motor. the 12v an be sourced and grounded through a molex. plug. I'm doing this now with 6 fans on pwm splitter using motherboard CPU PWM 4 pin and molex for 12v.

I've ordered my Phanteks cooler so will know next week sometime.... assuming it comes with the PWM adaptor.

Will probably end up using my TY-140 fans... but will look carp on red heatsink


----------



## BarryBGB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> let us know how it compares to the Intel water cooler


So far I have only done minor OC at 4.0Ghz and the temps are CPU 34C, MB 38C at VCore at 1.326V. The Phantek fan is running at 854 rpm at those temps.
I didn't do any OC with the intel water cooler but I remember at stock the temps were CPU 39C, MB 40C.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ranguvar*
> 
> The Intel liquid cooler is crap from what I've heard -- worse than the Corsair ones, which are worse than the Phanteks.


I tend to agree with that statement. I had originally bought the Intel RTS2011AC stock fan until I got the intel water cooler and the water cooler only dropped the CPU temp down by 1 or 2 C.

One thing I do miss about the intel water cooler is the clean look it gave the build. I had considered either the Cosair H80 or H100 but the reports of very loud fans turned me to the Phantek.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ranguvar*
> 
> Can any PH-TC14PE + i5-2500K/i7-2600K/2700K owners give me some temperatures?
> Preferably either on all stock or at a specific voltage + clock so I can compare.
> Thinking I might have a bad seat.
> Running at 1.52V or thereabouts and 5GHz, temperatures approach 90C.
> I won't be doing that 24/7, but that seems high, even for such voltage.


I am not what you would call an extreem OC'r, however even 90C looks kind of high. But then again, you are running at 5GHZ on Air. I have read from others that you can only get so much from air then you have to go to water.
Since I have the socket 2011 i7-3930K I don't know much about the 2700K only that the 2011 i7 tends to run a little hotter.


----------



## BarryBGB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HothBase*
> 
> Do you have a pic? I also asked about this PWM adapter a couple of weeks back but nobody responded.


Here is a pic of the adapter


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks AMD_Freak
> I may be all wet, but my understanding of 4 pin PWM fans is they are not interchangeable with 3 pin voltage controlled fans. Something about the speed signal to motherboard, then motherboard signal for 12v pulse to fan motor. the 12v an be sourced and grounded through a molex. plug. I'm doing this now with 6 fans on pwm splitter using motherboard CPU PWM 4 pin and molex for 12v.
> I've ordered my Phanteks cooler so will know next week sometime.... assuming it comes with the PWM adaptor.
> Will probably end up using my TY-140 fans... but will look carp on red heatsink


If you look at the pic above you can see the heat shrink is very large and feels like there is a small printed circuit board inside with several parts on both sides.
I would suspect the circuitry converts the PWM signals to a Voltage Control for the fan and the speed signal is just a pass through. I might open up the heat shrink just to check on the circuit. I don't have that size of heat shrink but I have some at work. Maybe tomorrow.

I actually placed an order for the PWM module before I realized there was one in the box. I tried to cancel but was too late. Received it a couple of days later. Pretty fast shipment. So now I have a spare.


----------



## AMD_Freak

Ya I got mine and threw it in the box never looked at it really I just leave my fans running at full but I swapped out the stock fans for the Prolimatech LEDs for more CFM and a little quieter.


----------



## BarryBGB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> Ya I got mine and threw it in the box never looked at it really I just leave my fans running at full but I swapped out the stock fans for the Prolimatech LEDs for more CFM and a little quieter.


Which Prolimatech's are you using? If it is the PRO-RV14LED? Then that RPM is 1000 and the Phantek is 1200 rpm.

Sounds like it may be better to switch to the PRO-RV14LED since the airflow is a little higher and a little less noise.
What color LED did you get?

The only downside I can see is possibly the bearing type. The PRO-RV14LED has a sleeve and the Phantek has a UFB (Updraft Floating Balance) whatever that is. May mean a shorter life span.


----------



## kevindd992002

What does the PWM adapter exactly do?


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BarryBGB*
> 
> Which Prolimatech's are you using? If it is the PRO-RV14LED? Then that RPM is 1000 and the Phantek is 1200 rpm.
> Sounds like it may be better to switch to the PRO-RV14LED since the airflow is a little higher and a little less noise.
> What color LED did you get?
> The only downside I can see is possibly the bearing type. The PRO-RV14LED has a sleeve and the Phantek has a UFB (Updraft Floating Balance) whatever that is. May mean a shorter life span.


PRO-RV14LED in red but the airflow has been reported lower then rating but yes they are a little quieter.


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What does the PWM adapter exactly do?


allows you to use the motherboard setting in the bios to run the fans


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> allows you to use the motherboard setting in the bios to run the fans


You mean the default connector of the Phantek fans aren't PWM?


----------



## .theMetal

I just purchased the blue phanteks heatsink for my sig rig update. it will be stuck on an i5 3570k and an asrock z77 extreme4 board.

I will post up temps and what not when I get it up and running this weekend


----------



## Ranguvar

LavcoPriceTech (decent amateur reviewers) just did an unboxing, will be doing a review and comparison to the NH-D14 and Silver Arrow soon: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-SVEWMBLkg0


----------



## Thunderpuss

Will the phanteks cooler clear ripjaws x in a haf x case??


----------



## .theMetal

can anyone tell me how the phanteks thermal paste is?


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> can anyone tell me how the phanteks thermal paste is?


Its ok , not bad at all


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thunderpuss*
> 
> Will the phanteks cooler clear ripjaws x in a haf x case??


I don't know about the case but I'm using Ripjaws X


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> Its ok , not bad at all


ok cool I have a year old tube of as5 but I'm also heading to microcenter so I could actually grab anything, do you suggest just using the provided over like ic diamond or the other contenders?


----------



## AMD_Freak

my TIM of choice is AC MX2 but everyone has a brand they like the best


----------



## .theMetal

cool thanks


----------



## doyll

[quote name="BarryBGB"
I would suspect the circuitry converts the PWM signals to a Voltage Control for the fan and the speed signal is just a pass through. I might open up the heat shrink just to check on the circuit. I don't have that size of heat shrink but I have some at work. Maybe tomorrow.
I actually placed an order for the PWM module before I realized there was one in the box. I tried to cancel but was too late. Received it a couple of days later. Pretty fast shipment. So now I have a spare.[/quote]

Thanks Barry. Looking at the picture it would appear my PWM splitter probably won't work with the adapter.









Might be able to use a 4 wire PWM splitter running Phanteks on side and my PSU powered splitter on other... Can't wait for my cooler to show up.


----------



## doyll

Update:
Cooler arrived. The PWM external adapter is in fact a small circuit board with 8 components on it so now think it really is a PWM control circuit. Will be installing later today and let you know.

Edit 12/5/2012:
Due to gremlins I will now try and install cooler tomorrow. Will be using 3x TY-140 fans.. same ones used on NH-U12P and case intake with new one for intake.


----------



## obsidian009

Great thread.

I'm looking at building a new system and considering the Phantek but want to make sure it fits before I buy everything...

I would utilize my existing P180 case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129154
Asus P8Z77-V Pro motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131819
Gskill ripjaws Z RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231585

I'm mostly concerned about the RAM heatsinks hitting it or the HSF being too tall for my case. My case is 8.1" W but that's with the side panels and all... The Phanteks HSF is 171mm tall (~6.73") from what I've read. This leaves a 1.37" clearance...just wondering after motherboard is in and it's on top of that, mounting brackets, etc if it will still make it.

For clearing the RAM, is there a recommended height to keep it under? The RAM I want is 1.58" tall according to http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=516. Not sure if that will make it or not.

Any feedback or tips appreciated.

Thx


----------



## tw33k

It should fit in your case but you will probably need to remove the heat spreaders on the RAM


----------



## Ranguvar

The Phanteks paste is quite good, up there with other "diamond-based" pastes. I wouldn't use anything over it unless you've pored over benchmarks for several days.

For Ripjaws Z, you'll be fine. I'm using 4x Ripjaws Z sticks in a CM Trooper.

As for clearing Ripjaws X in a HAF X, unsure. It clears Ripjaws Z (I believe the same height, maybe a tad shorter) in a Trooper, I can tell you that.
I think it's most likely you'll be okay.


----------



## doyll

Finally installed and running!

Had a few issues, the biggest being mount grounding out to motherboard mount. Thin piece of insulation quickly solved.

core temps are down from 36-41c to 29-35c... 7c cooler!

Haven't stress tested yet.


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Finally installed and running!
> Had a few issues, the biggest being mount grounding out to motherboard mount. Thin piece of insulation quickly solved.
> core temps are down from 36-41c to 29-35c... 6c cooler!
> Haven't stress tested yet.


Nice... it don't do much for Idle temps but sure makes a huge difference when stressing

Got Pics?


----------



## sundrou

add me in ppl


----------



## AMD_Freak

updated


----------



## doyll

Up and running now. Looks like temps are about 6c cooler idle and 10c cooler lower. Fan speed at idle is now 700rpm, was 800rpm and load now 1100rpm, was 1250rpm. Have not changed PWM setting. Motherboard temps are also 6c cooler. (probably because of fan / air movement below cooler) Old cooler was NH-U12P w/2x TY-140. New is PH-TC14PE w/3x TY140. Both mounted vertical and ducted out top.


----------



## sundrou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> updated


thanks add this to the reviews its great review http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/phanteks-ph-tc14pe.html


----------



## AMD_Freak

sounds like a nice improvement to me







:


----------



## doyll

Just ran stress test

With fans at full speed (1330rpm) on 25 minute test temps stabilized at 58-62c !!! Before with the NH-U12P temps were 66-71c.

Big difference!!









Edit: Case is now in as tests before PH-TK14E install. Only difference now is bottom intake is Corsair 3pin as I used my TY140 from there for 3rd cooler fan. Have another TY140 already ordered.


----------



## AMD_Freak

the 3rd fan make very very little difference maybe .5 of a deg C there has been test done IF I find the link Ill post it on the OP


----------



## doyll

I know.
PH-F140TS 2x and 3x
http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/phanteks_ph_tc14pe_cpu_cooler_review,10.html

Found these fan specs somewhere
Phanteks PH-F140TS 1,21mm H20 78.1CFM
Noctua NF-P14 1.29mm H2O 64.9CFM
Thermalright TY-140 1.89mm H20 74.0CFM

So F140TS is higher cfm and TY-140 is higher pressure.

Advantage to me with TY-140 is PWM and hope run running 3 will be a little quieter... Might be placebo effect, but think they system is now quieter.


----------



## AMD_Freak

LOL as long as you think it is Im sure it will be







thats why I went with the Prolimatech [email protected] dBA


----------



## doyll

Here's a few pictures in Fractal Define R2 case.
GPU in pics is only while doing install and testing. Normally have low profile ATI Radeon HD 6570 GDDR5 512MB reference model with full height Scythe Setsugen cooler wiht Scythe fan reversed so air flows toward HSF.

Phanteks PH-TC14PE with 3x TY-140 fans


184mm end to end. 19mm more each end. There is just enough space between GPU for intake air flow! Exhaust duct is not install in these pics.
Exhaust duct in before pics of Noctua was shortend and installed on Phanteks so all HSF hot air is exhausted out vent in top of case.
Before:
NH-U12P with custom mounting shrouds wiht 2x TY-140 fans


146mm end to end.

Surface area of radiator was 132 sq cm. Now 2x 150 sq cm. Heat pipes were 2 x clusters of 4 and now 2x rows of 5 all getting direct airflow.

Was short one TY-140 when installing so robbed bottom intake fan for cooler. Stuck an old Corsair in until I got another good fan. The Corsair makes very obnoxious sounds so set a Phenteks fan in with quiet adaptor. Is now quiet and idle temp is 34-39c compared to Corsair at 38-43c. 4c lower with just a little more air!

Now impatiently awaiting delivery of another TY-140.


----------



## Ragsters

How much of a difference in temps is there from using the two stock fans in default mode and just the middle stock fan? My ram sinks might be too tall.


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> How much of a difference in temps is there from using the two stock fans in default mode and just the middle stock fan? My ram sinks might be too tall.


to answer your question I really don't know, Im using RipjawsX ram ,I don't know why it would harm if you used the middle fan and one on the rear- you can adjust the height of the fan to clear the ram providing your case is big (wide) enough my case is 8 3/8 wide and it just clears 2-3 16ths" the glass window its real glass not plexi.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> to answer your question I really don't know, Im using RipjawsX ram ,I don't know why it would harm if you used the middle fan and one on the rear- you can adjust the height of the fan to clear the ram providing your case is big (wide) enough my case is 8 3/8 wide and it just clears 2-3 16ths" the glass window its real glass not plexi.


Yeah, my problem is that my case is really thin in width.


----------



## AMD_Freak

this is a HUGE cooler aprox 7.5" off the back of the MB tray with standoffs


----------



## doyll

Heatsink Dimension (LxWxH) H = 140mm motherboard to top of cooler/fan, 159mm top of fan(can very depending on how high/low you mount fan)

without fan: 134x140x160mm
with Dual Fans: 159x140x171mm
with 3 fans: 184x140x171

Vortez review:

2.66GHz Delta
no fans = 34.5c
1x fans = 31.5
2x fans = 30.5
3x fans = 29.5

4.00Ghz Delta
no fans = 61c
1x fans = 52.75
2x fans = 51.75
3x fans = 50.75

Test Setup

CPU - Intel Core i7 920 - 2.66/4.0GHz
RAM - 6GB (3x2GB) OCZ Platinum DDR3 1333MHz
Motherboard - ASUS Rampage III Extreme
Graphics card - XFX HD5870 1024MB
Power Supply - Enermax Revolution 85+ 850W
Hard Drive - OCZ Vertex 2E 120GB
Case - Lian Li B25B
Samsung F1 320GB
Samsung F3 1TB
Drivers - ATI Catalyst 11.7

How tested:

Testing will be based on temperatures recorded by Core Temp and PC wizard after 20 passes of LinX stress test. The absolute temperatures recorded in the tables are averages of the 4 cores and the delta value provided for a fair comparison, taking into account ambient temperatures. The test will be run at stock speed and at an overclocked speed of 4GHz.

http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/phanteks_ph_tc14pe_cpu_cooler_review,1.html


----------



## doyll

My real world testing
Setup

CPU - Intel Core i7 920 - 3.55GHz
HSF - Phanteks PH-TC14PE w/3x Thermalright TY-140 PWM fans exhaust ducted out top
RAM - 6GB (3x2GB) GeiL Value Plus DDR3 1600MHz 9-9-9-28
Motherboard - Gigabyte GA-EX58-UD3R Rev 1.6
Graphics card - ATI Radeon HD 6570 GDDR5 512MB reference model w/ Scythe Setsugen cooler
Power Supply - Corsair TX650 v2
Hard Drive - Samsung 750GB, 1.5TB, 2.0TB
Case - Fractal Design Define R2 w/2x Akasa AK-FN053 front intake, 1x *PH-F140TS quiet adaptor* bottom intake, 1x AK-FN053 back exhaust, all PWM controlled based on cooler fan rpm
*normally TY-140 but used for 3rd fan on cooler
Case sets into shelving at desk

ET6 = 15% rpm @ 30c
100% rpm @ 43C
front closed
idle 720rpm @ 37,36,40,35c-20.5c ambient encoding 1320rpm @ 58,58,59,56c mobo 31,42,45c
over night idle 711rpm @ 35,34,39,34c 21c ambient encoding 1300rpm @ 58,58,60,57c mobo 32,42,46c

Encoding with HandBrake 0.9.6; realtime; 10 minute encoding pass.
Maximum temperature in less then 2 minutes.

Case exhaust temperture above ambient; +2.5 idle, +5 encoding


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Heatsink Dimension (LxWxH) H = 140mm motherboard to top of cooler/fan, 159mm top of fan(can very depending on how high/low you mount fan)
> without fan: 134x140x160mm
> with Dual Fans: 159x140x171mm
> with 3 fans: 184x140x171
> Vortez review:
> 2.66GHz Delta
> no fans = 34.5c
> 1x fans = 31.5
> 2x fans = 30.5
> 3x fans = 29.5
> 4.00Ghz Delta
> no fans = 61c
> 1x fans = 52.75
> 2x fans = 51.75
> 3x fans = 50.75
> Test Setup
> CPU - Intel Core i7 920 - 2.66/4.0GHz
> RAM - 6GB (3x2GB) OCZ Platinum DDR3 1333MHz
> Motherboard - ASUS Rampage III Extreme
> Graphics card - XFX HD5870 1024MB
> Power Supply - Enermax Revolution 85+ 850W
> Hard Drive - OCZ Vertex 2E 120GB
> Case - Lian Li B25B
> Samsung F1 320GB
> Samsung F3 1TB
> Drivers - ATI Catalyst 11.7
> How tested:
> Testing will be based on temperatures recorded by Core Temp and PC wizard after 20 passes of LinX stress test. The absolute temperatures recorded in the tables are averages of the 4 cores and the delta value provided for a fair comparison, taking into account ambient temperatures. The test will be run at stock speed and at an overclocked speed of 4GHz.
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/phanteks_ph_tc14pe_cpu_cooler_review,1.html


Thanks for that! Now if someone can tell me how much, if any, does the fan go above the cooler if one was to set the fan only in the middle? 160mm seems to be the cooler limit for my case.


----------



## .theMetal

well just as a warning, I have the raven rv03 case and it says the cpu limitation is 163mm, and the top of the fans come right up to the window, like literally, its pretty much touching it:



the middle fan can only go so low because of the mounting screw in the middle, it sticks up a bit. If you could find a smaller screw with the same threads and a washer to replace the stock mounting screw you should be ok.

but just to be warned it does stick up past the top of the heatsink.

just don't want you to spend all the money and it not fit


----------



## Ragsters

I have seen pics on google with a Phantek installed in an FT02.


----------



## doyll

In my Define R2 fans are about 3-5mm above radiator. Don't know if that's all the way down or not as I just moved them down enough to clear side cover by a couple of mm.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> the middle fan can only go so low because of the mounting screw in the middle, it sticks up a bit. If you could find a smaller screw with the same threads and a washer to replace the stock mounting screw


Great idea! Simple enough to do.
All the middle screw does is hold bracket in place while heat sink is being mounted. Could be removed after heat sink is installed if you wanted. But that only lowers middle fan. Ram limits front fan.


----------



## rickyman0319

does this heatsink fit inside the v354B matx case or not? i have to put either dual fan or single fan on it?


----------



## doyll

Have mine open today and checked center fan measurements and clearances.

Setting on center screw is 4mm above radiator.

Bracket screw (middle one)is same height as mounting screws (end ones). But of course if center screw was shorter/removed fan would set lower.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have mine open today and checked center fan measurements and clearances.
> Setting on center screw is 4mm above radiator.
> Bracket screw (middle one)is same height as as mounting screws (end ones). But of course if center screw was shorter/removed fan would set lower.


Thanks for that! Are you saying that it is possible to lower all the fans 4mm if one was to replace them with screws that sit flush?


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Thanks for that! Are you saying that it is possible to lower all the fans 4mm if one was to replace them with screws that sit flush?


well that screw only affects the middle fan. the other fan is affected by your ram, but you could get some low profile ram and that would cure that problem.


----------



## doyll

theMetal is right about the screw. Use short one and fan could be mounted flush with top of cooler. Keep in mind cooler is 160mm high.. fan is 140mm... That leaves 20mm from top of CPU to bottom of fan... Top of CPU is what?... 5mm above motherboard? Assuming low profile memoury is only 25mm is all MIGHT more. Really, using one fan means CPU is only 1-2c warmer cpu.


----------



## doyll

Had my cooler off today checking CPU. Phanteks paste was perfect seat, but heatsink is not flat.. center tight and edges with more paste.

Bottom of radiator is 52mm above motherboard.

When I remounted it i pulled center screw. Center fan will now set flush with top of radiator without touching on bottom side. Highest fan is intake as has to clear motherboard chip/heatsink and is 2-3mm above cooler. (cooler is vertical in case)


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Had my cooler off today checking CPU. Phanteks paste was perfect seat, *but heatsink is not flat*.. center tight and edges with more paste.
> Bottom of radiator is 52mm above motherboard.
> When I remounted it i pulled center screw. Center fan will now set flush with top of radiator without touching on bottom side. Highest fan is intake as has to clear motherboard chip/heatsink and is 2-3mm above cooler. (cooler is vertical in case)


I actually noticed this before I installed. I'm going to lap it in a paycheck or two and add a third phantek fan.

I'll do a full on comparison of the temp difference (if there is any)


----------



## Tyreman

I contacted Phanteks by email to ask if the cooler fits the Antec P280 and they said no

"The cooler probably won't fit in the Antec 280 case. This case has 170mm clearance for CPU Cooler. The PH-TC14PE is 173.2mm tall. It will give interference with the sidepanel see image."


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyreman*
> 
> I contacted Phanteks by email to ask if the cooler fits the Antec P280 and they said no
> "The cooler probably won't fit in the Antec 280 case. This case has 170mm clearance for CPU Cooler. The PH-TC14PE is 173.2mm tall. It will give interference with the side panel see image."


Cooler is 160mm tall. Fans are 140mm high.
Fan height 140mm + memory height = total that will fit.
How short your memory is will be the determining factor.
My R2 spec is 165mm and have a PH-TC14PE in it. venting out the top


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Cooler is 160mm tall. Fans are 140mm high.
> Fan height 140mm + memory height = total that will fit.
> How short your memory is will be the determining factor.
> My R2 spec is 165mm and have a PH-TC14PE in it. venting out the top


this^

Specs on my raven RV03 say:

Limitation of CPU cooler: 163mm

and the top of the fans come right up against the side panel. I have normal height ram (no super tall heat spreaders) and it fits perfectly


----------



## doyll

Case spec is 170mm max so cooler will fit.

Question is will fans fit.
Middle fan can be lowered flush with cooler by removing center bridge screw after install.
Front intake fan will be the issue: 30mm + 140mm = 170mm 30mm is how tall ram is.

Options:
Use only middle fan... CPU will be 1c warmer.
http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/phanteks_ph_tc14pe_cpu_cooler_review,14.html
Use 120mm fan on intake
Use Noctua D14 as uses 120mm and 140mm fans
Etc.


----------



## Tyreman

Thank you very much for your help peoples
While the NH-D14 is an admirable performer(no doubt about it) I was just getting and itch/wanting to play with that new Phanteks bad boy.


----------



## doyll

i think Phanteks is nicer looking then Noctua. Black is best looking, but all are nice.


----------



## Tyreman

Got this correction email today

As we have checked more closely, our CPU Cooler will fit in a Antec 280. The middle fan can be mounted lower so it wont exceed the 170mm. Excuses for any confuses made. Should you have any more questions, let us know.

Best,
Phanteks Team


----------



## tw33k

"_Excuses for any confuses made_" What country are they from?


----------



## doyll

Box says designed in Europe, made in Taiwan, but no idea where headquarters are or where customer service is located.


----------



## .theMetal

hey tweek, so I know you were doing the testing with the h100, SA, and phanteks. I guess you decided on phanteks? Just wondering which you personally liked best.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> hey tweek, so I know you were doing the testing with the h100, SA, and phanteks. I guess you decided on phanteks? Just wondering which you personally liked best.


I haven't finished yet. I've run all the tests except the H100 with 4x UK-300s in push/pull which I'll do tomorrow and post the results.


----------



## .theMetal

ok cool let us know


----------



## doyll

Look forward to seeing the results.


----------



## tw33k

Results are here


----------



## doyll

Thanks















stock Phanteks delta + ambient is .8c greater then load.. margin of air?

Are you possibly testing TY-140 in the future?

I know it's subjective but how loud are UK 3000 vs stock Phanteks? I'm running 3x TY-140 which are about same as F140TS. UK 3000 are 4.8c cooler than stock F140TS... Thinking of more OC so UK 3000 might be worth doing if 800RPM noise is similar.


----------



## .theMetal

ok cool nice work man. which was your personal favorite? just out of curiosity


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stock Phanteks delta + ambient is .8c greater then load.. margin of air?
> Are you possibly testing TY-140 in the future?
> I know it's subjective but how loud are UK 3000 vs stock Phanteks? I'm running 3x TY-140 which are about same as F140TS. UK 3000 are 4.8c cooler than stock F140TS... Thinking of more OC so UK 3000 might be worth doing if 800RPM noise is similar.


The temp inside the case wasn't always exactly 20c. While stressing the CPU it would rise and fall. I took the temp at the start, after 15 mins and at the finish for the average. The UKs are a lot louder than the Phanteks. I'm used to the noise now and it fades into the background.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> ok cool nice work man. which was your personal favorite? just out of curiosity


The air coolers take up a lot of space and I like the H100 because it's a more "open" look. I've decided to sell my Silver Arrow SB-E and keep the Phanteks for an AMD rig I'm building. It was hard to decide which to sell. I like them both. But I think I'll get more for the SB-E.


----------



## .theMetal

awesome, good to know


----------



## Holy_COW

Will it fit an Asus Gene V in the usual front->back position? (allowing usage of 1st PCIe)
Any pics?









Official compat list doesn't list GeneV, only old mobos like P67... and looking at the Asus P67 mATX against the GeneV, the P67 has the CPU socket a bit farther away from the PCIe than the geneV









Thanks!


----------



## greg1184

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B005OREE38/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new you can get it for $69.99 if interested.


----------



## doyll

Headlines:
*Phanteks PH-TC14PE Red is Coolest*
FrostyTech has proven red is cooler then blue, white and orange by .4 to .8c Black was not included in test.








http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2671&page=5
http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2669&page=5
http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2672&page=5
http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2670&page=5


----------



## Elohim

it just means that there is some series deviation, just like every other cooler outthere.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elohim*
> 
> it just means that there is some serious deviation, just like every other color outthere.


There. Fixed your spelling for you.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B005OREE38/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new you can get it for $69.99 if interested.


Quote:


> Usually ships within 1 - 2 months.


----------



## Derrickb1974

Hi everyone, I'm new here and have a question.

Not sure if this has been covered, but I have a new system I just finished building with an i7-3770k processor (Ivy Bridge) which runs a little hotter than Sandy Bridge. My case is an Antec Eleven Hundred that has a fan that blows air onto the back of the motherboard which I think is a great idea to cool down components more from behind.

However, the Phantek PH-TC14PE rear mounting plate is completely closed off and covers the CPU pins totally. I thought about drilling a large hole in the mounting plate that covers the CPU pins to allow fresh air to flow through hence cool the CPU more. Not drill enough to weaken the mount, but be more like other cooler mounting plates with that area cut out.

I don't have the PH-TC14PE cooler yet, but for those that have the cooler, do you think this is a good idea?

If you don't have a case with a fan to cool the rear part of the Motherboard, CPU, memory, etc..., then it probably wouldn't matter, but since my case does have a rear fan that is designed to cool the back, this is my idea.

Thanks for any advice or criticism.

Phantek PH-TC14PE closed Mount which can block air.


Corsair H100 Open Mount which allows air to cool better.


Phantek PH-TC14PE Open Mount Modification which allows air flow.


----------



## AMD_Freak

I wouldn't think it would be more the 1-2C if it was open, I just think its what has to be dealt with until Intel figures a way around the heat issue like the next revision of IB chips.


----------



## doyll

I doubt if it's more then .1-.5c difference.. if any. Mounting plate doesn't touch.. actually has gap.. so air movement is possible between mount and motherboard.


----------



## Samurai Batgirl

http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1759/1/

I didn't see that in the original post where it showed reviews. Thought I should link it.


----------



## Derrickb1974

Thanks everyone for the responses.

@ Doyll, I didn't know there was a gap. I thought it was sealed. I may not have to do any type of modifications if there is a gap.

By the way, I just ordered myPhanteks PH-TC14PE in Blue that I have been wanting for $79 with free 2 day shipping (prime member). Amazon has a deal at this moment if anyone else is interested. It is only in the Blue model and since I bought mine, they have 8 left in stock.

Newegg has a promo code also to take $20 off with free standard shipping.

Just wanted to put that out there if anyone is interested.

I will post photos of my setup once I have mine installed and running.

Thanks again for the help.

Derrick


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derrickb1974*
> 
> Thanks everyone for the responses.
> @ Doyll, I didn't know there was a gap. I thought it was sealed. I may not have to do any type of modifications if there is a gap.


yeah. The mounting bracket has hard rubber mounts in corners.
http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=2669
7th picture down and it's even your color.









When you install make sure the mounting bracket does not touch anywhere. I had to tweek my cases motherboard backing plate a couple mm. It was touching and causing 3 boots when booting system.







If you have an issue like this a thin piece of plastic or a piece of construction paper to insulate between case and mount.


----------



## YangerD

Where can I get one of these in Canada? Can't seem to find a place. Newegg is out of stock.


----------



## .theMetal

anyone lapped their base? I'm seriously considering doing it if I can get a gain.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YangerD*
> 
> Where can I get one of these in Canada? Can't seem to find a place. Newegg is out of stock.


can you order it from amazon?

http://www.amazon.com/PHANTEKS-PH-TC14PE_BL-Heat-Pipes-Premium-Patented/dp/B005OQJVP0/ref=pd_cp_pc_1

blue's actually cheaper right now.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> anyone lapped their base? I'm seriously considering doing it if I can get a gain.


I thought about it but when I installed it and my temps were 10c cooler then my U12P temps were and with reviews saying it was 2c cooler then D14 I just couldn't be bothered. After all it's a big barsteward to be trying to keep it from wobbling while lapping would be hard .







.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I thought about it but when I installed it and my temps were 10c cooler then U12P temps I couldn't be bothered.


yea for sure. I know its a little bit convex, and I would like to not touch my processor yet, still too new. I'll just keep considering it haha. probably get a third fan and see how that does. its a 2 second install.


----------



## doyll

i worry about holding it so it laps flat. CPUs are easy to lap, but trying to take a high center off of a 2" square 2" below a 6" cube.....







Almost need to build a fxture to keep heatsink square to lapping surface.. or lapping surface square to heatsink:thumb:


----------



## .theMetal

yea I almost could build a structure.... but not sure if I want to put that extra work in. not to mention I'm indecisive as hell









its just so hot with this whole summer time thing. I'm ready for winter so I can open my window and have some 0 degree weather for my computer to suck up.


----------



## Derrickb1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> can you order it from amazon?
> http://www.amazon.com/PHANTEKS-PH-TC14PE_BL-Heat-Pipes-Premium-Patented/dp/B005OQJVP0/ref=pd_cp_pc_1
> blue's actually cheaper right now.


I bought mine for $79US on Amazon (prime) and they actually sent it as next day for me (fantastic), but it is back up to $96 now on Amazon.

I loaded a bunch of photos onto Amazon of my PH-TC14PE also.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/product-gallery/B005OQJVP0/ref=cm_ciu_pdp_images_0?ie=UTF8&index=0&isremote=0


Fully assembled and installed with G.Skills RipjawX underneath. Keeps my i7-3770k @ 4.7GHz around 78-81C.


Blue version goes well with the blue lighting I have. Can't see it in the photos.


Only downfall to the cooler is, I can't place a 120mmx25mm on the side window. A 12mm fan would fit.


----------



## AMD_Freak

ADDED


----------



## jcamp6336

Just got mine today, paid $79.99 also, but from NewEgg.

Thing is built like a tank and looks awesome. MUCH quieter than my old Zalman 9500.

Now just gotta get rid of that god awful PSU and it'll be looking decent in there.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcamp6336*
> 
> Just got mine today, paid $79.99 also, but from NewEgg.
> Thing is built like a tank and looks awesome. MUCH quieter than my old Zalman 9500.
> Now just gotta get rid of that god awful PSU and it'll be looking decent in there.


Your fans are around the wrong way. You'd get far better temps exhausting out the back


----------



## .theMetal

I noticed that, I just assumed he was bringing fresh air in from the back.

still looks awesome. I'm partial to the blue.


----------



## tw33k

But doing that also brings in the warm air from the graphics card which is why exhausting will give better temps


----------



## doyll

Looks good jcamp. Noticed you are runnning back to front airflow with pull>pull. Would you explain why please?


----------



## .theMetal

were all wondering haha


----------



## doyll

I know, I know catch up at the back.







I might be slow but I'm still in there.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I know, I know catch up at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might be slow but I'm still in there.


----------



## Derrickb1974

I did notice that also. I had to rethink, did I just install mine wrong, but then thought, "NO, I didn't." I thought he/she was bringing in air from the back and out the front.


----------



## jcamp6336

oopsy!


----------



## jcamp6336

I just assumed the logos faced out so you can see them? Guess ill have to change that.


----------



## .theMetal

Its all good, fans always blow towards their motor mount. (I've never seen one that doesn't at least)

I bet you'll get slightly better temps when you flip 'em too.


----------



## jcamp6336

Yeah just flipped em, temps dropped about 2-3 degrees celsius


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcamp6336*
> 
> Yeah just flipped em, temps dropped about 2-3 degrees celsius


excellent.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcamp6336*
> 
> Yeah just flipped em, temps dropped about 2-3 degrees celsius


----------



## doyll

about a week ago a guy who builds PC all the time couldn't figure out why his last build was running real hot. Tried everything. I ask the obvious question about he on fan that was hidden and guess what. He check and it was in backwards.

We all do it at one time or another.


----------



## .theMetal

actually back when I still had my h50, I would take it apart and clean the fins out like once a month ish. and every single time I put it back together, I would put one of the fans on backwards. like clockwork. even though I told my self every time to make sure they were right, I would still do it.


----------



## Derrickb1974

Wanted to show off the cooler with LED hightlights. It has really become the center piece within my machine as to be expected with it's size.

Some reason it looks greenish, but all the blues actually match very well in person.




That should be the last upload I post of my cooler and system.

Thanks everyone for the help when asked,
Derrick


----------



## tw33k

Awesome Derrick! I've got mine similar (I also use the same PSU in both my rigs)


----------



## Hms1193

Assembled my new rig yesterday, Here's a pic to show that im a legit owner of the Mammoth cooler









Been working on the cables since last night, current management looks much better than the one in pic.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hms1193*
> 
> Assembled my new rig yesterday, Here's a pic to show that im a legit owner of the Mammoth cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been working on the cables since last night, current management looks much better than the one in pic.


epic. my next purchase is a third fan, and some of that tiny samsung ram, so the my bottom fan doesn't hit my window.


----------



## Hms1193

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> epic. my next purchase is a third fan, and some of that tiny samsung ram, so the my bottom fan doesn't hit my window.


Thanks!









Following picture shows the clearance between my rams and the 1st fan. Good thing that i asked G.Skill for Ares 2133Mhz.


----------



## doyll

Clearance?? I don't see no stinking clearance!!









How close to side cover is the fan?

Cooler really looks good in your rig... and nice rig too.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hms1193*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Following picture shows the clearance between my rams and the 1st fan. Good thing that i asked G.Skill for Ares 2133Mhz.


Yea I have kingston hyperx ram and the fan sits on it and actually barely rests against my window







not a big deal but its something I can take care of


----------



## OneTreeHill

Hi guys,I am thinking about to buy this products.But l have some questions.This review says:

''Unfortunately, he can not implement these guidelines pecuniary in quality, because this fan sucks in spite of a high-friction bearing with clearly audible grinding noises, and even the 12-hour break-in period were not minimized. . In horizontal mode, the fan and motor vibiert noticeably chirping merrily to himself, as well as helps the user is not that these fans (running at 4.21 volts at) a high volume and has an attractive scalable''

http://www.pc-experience.de/wbb2/thread.php?threadid=32601

Does this information is accurate?Do you have a fan problem?


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneTreeHill*
> 
> Hi guys,I am thinking about to buy this products.But l have some questions.This review says:
> ''Unfortunately, he can not implement these guidelines pecuniary in quality, because this fan sucks in spite of a high-friction bearing with clearly audible grinding noises, and even the 12-hour break-in period were not minimized. . In horizontal mode, the fan and motor vibiert noticeably chirping merrily to himself, as well as helps the user is not that these fans (running at 4.21 volts at) a high volume and has an attractive scalable''
> http://www.pc-experience.de/wbb2/thread.php?threadid=32601
> Does this information is accurate?Do you have a fan problem?


no fan problems for me, dude.


----------



## Derrickb1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneTreeHill*
> 
> Hi guys,I am thinking about to buy this products.But l have some questions.This review says:
> ''Unfortunately, he can not implement these guidelines pecuniary in quality, because this fan sucks in spite of a high-friction bearing with clearly audible grinding noises, and even the 12-hour break-in period were not minimized. . In horizontal mode, the fan and motor vibiert noticeably chirping merrily to himself, as well as helps the user is not that these fans (running at 4.21 volts at) a high volume and has an attractive scalable''
> http://www.pc-experience.de/wbb2/thread.php?threadid=32601
> Does this information is accurate?Do you have a fan problem?


No Problems with my fans. They are Ultra quite.


----------



## doyll

Same here extremely quiet. Can't hear them if not less then a foot away at idle.


----------



## OneTreeHill

Thanks for answers. By the way,attachment for the third fan is included in the box?


----------



## doyll

The spring clips to hold fan on cooler are included for 3rd fan.

To power the 3rd fan you will need another 3pin Y splitter to attach into one included in kit.

The 3rd fan is all looks. It won't increase cooling enough to justify the cost.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The 3rd fan is all looks. It won't increase cooling enough to justify the cost.


hmmm it seemed like I was reading somewhere that this is one of the rare heatsinks that the third fan actually does drop a few degrees off the temps.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> hmmm it seemed like I was reading somewhere that this is one of the rare heatsinks that the third fan actually does drop a few degrees off the temps.


This one maybe.

3x PH-F140TX = 50.75c
2x PH-F140TX = 51.75c
1x PH-F140TX = 52.75c
Passive = 61.0c
http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/phanteks_ph_tc14pe_cpu_cooler_review,13.html


----------



## doyll

you gain 1c per fan. 1x = 52.75c, 2x = 51.75c, 3x = 50.75c
http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/phanteks_ph_tc14pe_cpu_cooler_review,13.html

I'm running 3x TY-140 fans. Want to get TY-143 fans.. the 700-2500rpm red & orange jobbies.


----------



## .theMetal

Ok cool thanks for the info man, I think 1 c can justify another fan for me


----------



## doyll

Put a UK3000 on the front. That will gain you 6.4c








http://www.overclock.net/t/1244896/top-air-cooler-showdown
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185054

Just keep in mind it draws .6amp








DFS123812H-3000 3,000 rpm, 45.90dBA, 133.60CFM, DC12V 0.60 A


----------



## OneTreeHill

By the way I noticed just now.The cpu fan 3 pin and pwm adapter comes in the box.Adapter does it work?Is it theoretically possible, 3 pin to pwm fan?


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Put a UK3000 on the front. That will gain you 6.4c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1244896/top-air-cooler-showdown
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185054
> Just keep in mind it draws .6amp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DFS123812H-3000 3,000 rpm, 45.90dBA, 133.60CFM, DC12V 0.60 A


I actually have a uk3000 laying around haha, I never use it cause its annoyingly loud, but I might try it out.

I do (just remembered this as I'm typing) have a aerocool shark 140. should I put it in the middle, front, or back?

ps: power's not a problem, I have everything hooked up to a fan controller, mostly for cable management


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneTreeHill*
> 
> By the way I noticed just now.The cpu fan 3 pin and pwm adapter comes in the box.Adapter does it work?Is it theoretically possible, 3 pin to pwm fan?


Yes and Yes.

PWM fans have PWM circuitry in them. Phanteks PWM adapter has that circuitry in it. 3pin fan is 12+, earth and rpm. PWM fan is 12+, earth, rpm and PWM.

Fan sends rpm signal to motherboard, motherboard determines and sends PWM signal to fan PWM circuitry which triggers 12v pulse to fan motor. Speed and length of pulse determines the fan rpm.


----------



## OneTreeHill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yes and Yes.
> PWM fans have PWM circuitry in them. Phanteks PWM adapter has that circuitry in it. 3pin fan is 12+, earth and rpm. PWM fan is 12+, earth, rpm and PWM.
> Fan sends rpm signal to motherboard, motherboard determines and sends PWM signal to fan PWM circuitry which triggers 12v pulse to fan motor. Speed and length of pulse determines the fan rpm.


Thanks man.

With this apparatus


solve the problem of the 3rd fan


----------



## doyll

Don't know. Can't tell if one of the 3 is 3 wires (rpm wire) You need that on master fan so mobo can monitor rpm to control it.

Kit comes with a Y splitter to run 2 fans on cooler.


----------



## .theMetal

so I put the aerocool shark in the middle, and it dropped temps a 1-2 degrees. it also made it a bit louder but its not any louder than my silverstone 180 fans at the bottom of the case


----------



## HothBase

It annoys me that the only way to get the PWM adapter is to buy their cooler which I have no use for. I would gladly pay up to $15 for it if it were available separately. I also find it surprising that they're the only ones to offer this kind of thing, bet I'm not alone in wanting one.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> so I put the aerocool shark in the middle, and it dropped temps a 1-2 degrees. it also made it a bit louder but its not any louder than my silverstone 180 fans at the bottom of the case


Thanks for the update


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks for the update


no problem it was this guy:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835129058

the cfm is more than the phantek fans which is why I put it in the middle, it has to push and pull. <- made sense in my head









also when I put the phantek fan on the back of the heatsink, pulling, i turned on the machine and it was hitting the rubber anit-vibration strips on each side of the tower, so I had to cut out the middle of the strips so the fan wouldn't rub. has anyone else seen this?


----------



## Mesima

Does anyone by chance have the NZXT Phantom 410 case or the Corsair 400R? If so does this beast of a cooler fit in either?


----------



## s7j3

I just bought one of these for my future build. Does anyone have experience with ram clearance? I am planning to use a asrock z77 extreme 4 as the motherboard, 2x4gb gskill ripjaws x series, and a corsair 600t white/silver. I've heard that ram clearance is a bit tricky for the cooler, so I want to make sure the configuration will work before I make the buy.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s7j3*
> 
> I am planning to use a asrock z77 extreme 4 as the motherboard


Z77 Extreme4 has crappy VRMs.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1271002/asrock-z77-vrm-phase-cooling-badly-needed/0_20


----------



## Derrickb1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s7j3*
> 
> I just bought one of these for my future build. Does anyone have experience with ram clearance? I am planning to use a asrock z77 extreme 4 as the motherboard, 2x4gb gskill ripjaws x series, and a corsair 600t white/silver. I've heard that ram clearance is a bit tricky for the cooler, so I want to make sure the configuration will work before I make the buy.


I emailed Phanteks a while back and was informed any RAM up to 40mm will work. I've deleted the email now, but I have 2x4GB GSkill RipJawX in my setup and it works fine. The first fan does have to be moved up higher on the tower, but that is because of the 140mm fan, the RAM fits under the tower with no problem. Any 140mm fan will cause that issue so one can't fault Phanteks.

I have an Asus P8Z77-V Motherboard in an Antec Eleven Hundred Case.

Click here to see my Setup up close with the same RAM.

Click here to see my setup from a distance.

Hope this helps.
Derrick


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Z77 Extreme4 has crappy VRMs.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1271002/asrock-z77-vrm-phase-cooling-badly-needed/0_20


with a sandy yes, they pull more volts than an ivy and put more stress on the vrms. ivy should be completely fine, even in overclocking situations.


----------



## doyll

Phanteks radiator is 52mm above motherboard
BUT fans are 140mm
SO if your case has
170mm CPU heatsink clearance ram MUST BE less then 30mm.
165mm CPU heatsink clearance and it's 25mm.

Shortest memory I know of is Samsung Green @ 20mm


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derrickb1974*
> 
> I have an Asus P8Z77-V Motherboard in an Antec Eleven Hundred Case.
> Setup up close with the same RAM.
> my setup from a distance.
> Hope this helps.
> Derrick


Nice looking rig sir.


----------



## s7j3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> with a sandy yes, they pull more volts than an ivy and put more stress on the vrms. ivy should be completely fine, even in overclocking situations.


I will be using an ivy bridge so its alright, just worrying mostly about the case clearance and ram clearance from my choices


----------



## Derrickb1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> Nice looking rig sir.


Thank you doyll.

Next project is going to be to water cool the GPU there. My Radeon HD 6870 has a loud fan when gaming. The system is normally rather quiet, but that GPU fan ramps and takes over the dB levels. Using an Antec 620 on the GPU. Ordered the bracket already.


----------



## MartynRE

Drop. Dead. Gorgeous.

I'm already considering doing a complete rebuild of my rig for one of these.


----------



## HuwSharpe

Any chance this is going to fit on a Asrock Z77E-ITX?


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HuwSharpe*
> 
> Any chance this is going to fit on a Asrock Z77E-ITX?


looks like it will fit the board but not sure about the case your using.


----------



## Speshy

Ah, bugger... I'd be ordering one of these, but my Bitfenix Shinobi only takes coolers up to 167mm in height. The Phanteks is 171mm with fans right?
Ok, the NH-D14 would fit, but look at it next to this thing









Raaargh! So damn delicious... Next time Gadget... Next time.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speshy*
> 
> Ah, bugger... I'd be ordering one of these, but my Bitfenix Shinobi only takes coolers up to 167mm in height. The Phanteks is 171mm with fans right?
> Ok, the NH-D14 would fit, but look at it next to this thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Raaargh! So damn delicious... Next time Gadget... Next time.


I'm thinking it should fit man. this is my case:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811163180

if you look at the details, it says maximum cooler height is 163 and it fits, with room, in my case. I have to lower the 140's on the cooler a bit, but it just forces some air on the vrm heatsinks, which is perfectly fine with me.


----------



## Speshy

Oh man, don't do this to me haha!

I don't know if I want to go through the hassle of RMA'ing it if and when it doesn't go in. It's also the kind of thing you just wouldn't want to give back y'know?
There's also the fact that I WILL want to look at it all the time, and that means I'll have to get on with the case window mod I've been planning which will decrease available space even further...

I'll have a scout around the webz to see if anyone's managed it, but realistically I think I'll just press on with my existing cooling plans and save the flashy extravaganza for when I'm itching for a new case


----------



## doyll

The only place you may have trouble is RAM clearance. For fan to fit over ran you will need very short RAM.. 27mm tall kind.

Samsung low profile is 18mm tall

My case spec is 165mm and Phanteks fits with 5mm to spare. Actual motherboard to side cover is 172mm. 140mm fan fits over Crucial Ballistax Sport (28mm))


----------



## Speshy

Oh Jesus... I'm running out of reasons to not buy this thing









My ram is 'unsheathed' and I'm pretty sure it sits at around 27mm.

I'll admit that is isn't the extra few degrees of performance that sway me, It's the looks. I'm that shallow.
Now if only OcUK had the black & white one in stock (white Shinobi case + black n white fans + B&W Phanteks =







), though I guess a flash of colour wouldn't hurt eh?

Somebody stop me!


----------



## doyll

I know. I'm just as shallow.









Measure your case and see. Put a straight edge across your open case and measure. Deduct 7mm for CPU height and take into account any thickness of side cover.. Measure RAM clearance while you're at it.


----------



## HuwSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> looks like it will fit the board but not sure about the case your using.


My concern is blocking the PCIe slot with such a huge cooler, if anyone has any photos of it fitting without slot blocking I'm getting one!

I have a Bitfenix Prodigy by the way.


----------



## doyll

All of the new coolers are at or very close to 140mm wide.. Silver Arrow SB-E is 160mm wide with fan.








140mm wide just clears first slot cards. Some peps slip something between or put rubber bumpers on cooler just to be safe. Some motherboards don't have a full length first PCI slot... mine doesn't


----------



## Speshy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I know. I'm just as shallow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Measure your case and see. Put a straight edge across your open case and measure. Deduct 7mm for CPU height and take into account any thickness of side cover.. Measure RAM clearance while you're at it.


I'm at around 171mm-ish. The game is afoot!

I'll have to give it a little more thought though. For all it's awesomeness, I can see a few potential headaches that need a little more looking into.

Thanks for the assistance (again)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speshy*
> 
> I'm at around 171mm-ish. The game is afoot!
> I'll have to give it a little more thought though. For all it's awesomeness, *I can see a few potential headaches that need a little more looking into*.
> Thanks for the assistance (again)


What are the potential heartaches?


----------



## Speshy

I can't really be sure until I have it. I think there's a good chance that it'll clash with the 8pin mobo cable/socket as well as blocking off a couple of fan connectors. Ram should be ok.
I just re-measured the case interior, and it's 169-170mm from mobo to side panel.
It feels like I'd be taking a bit of a gamble tbh. One that's not really worth it for the sake having a great looking cooler that (if it fits) will only ever be seen with the side panel off.

The other cooler & fan combo I had in mind wouldn't have any of these issues, looks decent enough and wouldn't be that far off in performance terms.
The Phanteks, great as it is, is more of a 'want' than a 'need' kind of thing. I definitely need a decent cooler at the moment, but if it's gonna be a hassle then I dunno...

If you could do me a favour and get a quick measure from mobo to the uppermost fan edge that'd help a lot with the decision.
In the meantime, I'm gonna go have at look at installed pics to get a better idea of how it might fit on my board.


----------



## doyll

I get 167mm and my Northbridge heatsink which is 33mm tall. The fans are same height as cooler. I have removed the thumb screw in the middle of the mounting strap that attaches to top of heatsink. Don't think it needs to be out but just in case your center fan was set a little high removing it would let you slip it down a little more.

When attaching the mount to motherboard install all pieces including the cooler with mounting strap before tighting the 4 main mounting bracket thumbscrews through motherboard. This helps make sure the cross strap with mount easily. Also the cross strap end thumb screws require down pressure to get them started. I suggest doing a a trial install before removing protective cover on bottom of heatsink to be sure it will set in and screw down properly before you apply thermal paste. These are big coolers mounting on the small top of CPU. Trial mounting is a good idea with all these big coolers.


----------



## Speshy

Well it looks like it'll more than likely go. If all goes to plan, I'll be applying to the club next week









I'd buy you a pint mate, but a rep'll have to do. Thank you very much


----------



## doyll

Look forward to seeing it installed:thumb:


----------



## doyll

Forgot to say the bottom of radiator is 52mm above motherboard. So the 8pin mobo cable/socket as well as blocking off a couple of fan connectors are not a clearance problem but may not be easily accessible. I have mine mounted vertical venting out the top.


----------



## Bosniac

You can add me as a new owner. Here are some pics:





Test right before Phantek installation, of the Antec Kuhler 620 P/P, @ 4.3GHz:



Phanteks, same parameters, 4.3GHz:


----------



## Derrickb1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bosniac*
> 
> You can add me as a new owner. Here are some pics:
> 
> 
> 
> Test right before Phantek installation, of the Antec Kuhler 620 P/P, @ 4.3GHz:


Congrats...


----------



## doyll

Looks really nice.

Surprised temps didn't drop a bit more


----------



## Bosniac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks really nice.
> Surprised temps didn't drop a bit more


Last night they averaged about 9-10c cooler. I don't know how much you're expected them to drop?


----------



## Elohim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks really nice.
> Surprised temps didn't drop a bit more


8-9°C is pretty much... the 620 probably had fresh are intake too.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bosniac*
> 
> Test right before Phantek installation, of the Antec Kuhler 620 P/P, @ 4.3GHz:
> 
> Phanteks, same parameters, 4.3GHz:


I dont see a change here. So you tell me which is accurate. Your lower temps last night or the *right before Phanteks install* and *same parameters* coolers pics? What was ambient temp when pics were taken?


----------



## Bosniac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I dont see a change here. So you tell me which is accurate. Your lower temps last night or the *right before Phanteks install* and *same parameters* coolers pics? What was ambient temp when pics were taken?


It's right there.

With Antec 620 the temps were as following:
*68-73-72-73*

With Phantek the temps are as following:
*60-65-63-64*

That's a drop per core of:
*-8 -8 -5 -9*

In order for Phanteks to reach 620 temps, I had to OC my i5 2500K to 4.9GHz at 1.47v


----------



## Elohim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I dont see a change here. So you tell me which is accurate. Your lower temps last night or the *right before Phanteks install* and *same parameters* coolers pics? What was ambient temp when pics were taken?


maximum temps


----------



## Bosniac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elohim*
> 
> maximum temps


Here is another run just now:


----------



## doyll

Normally the specs given are maximum temp of cores during a stress run.

Your images show max temps of
Antec = 65 67 73 68
Phanteks 66 68 72 68 is 0c average
today = 63 64 71 66 is 2c cooler average

I'm assuming room temp is the same for first 2 tests but today's test is a wild card. Room could easily be 2c cooler... or room may have warmed up 2c yesterday while you were installing cooler..


----------



## Elohim

doyll, you are looking at "*Distance to TJ Max*". Look at "*Maximum*"! it's a 8,5°C difference.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elohim*
> 
> doyll, you are looking at "*Distance to TJ Max*". Look at "*Maximum*"! it's a 8,5°C difference.


Got out the magnifier and can almost read the numbers on his images.


----------



## Bosniac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Got out the magnifier and can almost read the numbers on his images.


If you click on the pic, you enlarge it...


----------



## doyll

That was after I clicked on picture to enlarge it!


----------



## tw33k

lol..yeah the size of the pic is not helpful


----------



## andre02

That is a very good drop in temperatures.


----------



## Ice009

Hey guys, how does this cooler compare to to Noctua NH-D14? I can get a Phanteks off of someone I know or a D14 complete with fans and everything else, but the Phanteks is missing both fans. Are there any 120mm fans that you can get that would have similar performance to the stock fans?


----------



## Derrickb1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ice009*
> 
> Hey guys, how does this cooler compare to to Noctua NH-D14? I can get a Phanteks off of someone I know or a D14 complete with fans and everything else, but the Phanteks is missing both fans. Are there any 120mm fans that you can get that would have similar performance to the stock fans?


In my readings before getting my Phanteks, it beat the D14 by a degree. Both in stock configuration. Fan selection can improve performance some. Should be noted that the Phanteks uses two 140mm. D14 uses one 120mm and one 140mm. I think the D14 is good but the Phanteks is slightly better and looks great doing it.

The looks are subjective so the choice is yours. Either will work great.


----------



## doyll

Phanteks is only slightly better than D14.. like maybe 1c. Reviews show about 1c increase in cooling for each additional fan used.... 1, 2 and 3
http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/phanteks_ph_tc14pe_cpu_cooler_review,13.html
Phanteks with 1 fan = 52.75c, 2 fans = 51.75c, 3 fans = 50.75c.
Noctua NH-D14 with 1 fan 55c, 2 fans 52.25c so 0.5c warmer than Phanteks.

White, Red, Orange & Blue tests:
0.5c better here
http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2671&page=5
.
0c difference here
http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2670&page=5

0.1c better here
http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2669&page=5

.3c worse here
http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2672&page=5

And it's not the color that makes the difference. Re-mount same cooler 4 times and you will get the same kind of difference.

If you can only afford 1 fan on Phanteks you will be .5c warmer than D14

You could use 120mm fan but why would yo want to when stock fans are 140mm?
140mm fans I would suggest are:
Thermalright TY-140 is what I'm using.
Thermalright TY-141
Thermalright TY-143 is my favorite but not yet available.
Akasa Apache Black AK-FN062

There are lots more good fans. Ask one of the fan gurus, then look in forum for sale and you might get lucky. I research and find what I want and quit. Way too much happening to try and keep up with.

If you get the Phanteks make sure you get the fan clips and little black fittings that go in mount holes in fans.


----------



## Bosniac

I took one of the fans off, due to not being PWM. I ran all 3 on full speed, and it's just too loud for my tastes. When I use the PWM adapter, on two fans, I can switch on the fly between silent, and turbo, using ASUS Fan Xpert. I did get two adapters with my Phantek 140mm fan, but I believe those are silencer adapters. Does newegg sell a PWM adapter?


----------



## doyll

Phanteks told me I could run all 3 fans on 1 PWM adapter. Just get another Y splitter and make sure the rpm lead is plugged into the rpm lead on existing Y splitter. I have a mate who is making custom PWM adapters for multiple 3 pin fans.

I found 3 made adapter get pretty hot.. like hot enough to shrink heat shrink. Too hot for me.









Phanteks said if it burnt out to let them know and they would give me another free.









I gave a mate all the info from my Phanteks adapter and he is now making modified versions for multiple fans.. even putting rpm adjustment for each fan so you can control different kinds of fans in system. These use mobo for PWM signal and are powered by molex from PSU.


----------



## Elohim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Re-mount same cooler 4 times and you will get the same kind of difference.


it's also simply production deviations. I had two different D14s and one was 2°C better than the other (after multiple remounts). Also the fans have a +-10% variation in fanspeed. So one tester might get a Ty-140 with 1400rpm and another one with 1200rpm, wich can easily result in 1 or 2°C difference. That's why testing every cooler with the same exact fans is important too imo.


----------



## doyll

Indeed. I would guess plus or minus 2-3% is normal margin for air.


----------



## s7j3

Hey I just installed this and have a few questions:

If I have 2 CPU fan headers on the mobo, is there any benefit for using the pwm adapter?
Does the thermal paste take time to cure?
I have a 3570k and an Asrock extreme 4 and was wondering what temperatures to expect, stock and oced to 4.4 ghz, currently I am experiencing 35-40 idle and 70-80 load temps at 4.4ghz 1.23 volts. Its summer so the ambient temps are around 25-30c


----------



## doyll

Fans are not PWM. You need the PWM adapter plugged into PWM socket on mothreboard to use PWM from motherboard and the 'Y' splitter plugged into the PWM adapter with fans plugged into 'Y' splitter.

Thermal paste needs no cure time.


----------



## s7j3

I have a pwm socket and the y splitter they provided, I was just wondering if there was any advantage to using pwm as opposed to the regular headers on the fans. Also, any idea what my temps should be? I might need to reseat the heatsink as I'm getting temps in the 70-80 range when testing prime95


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s7j3*
> 
> I have a pwm socket and the y splitter they provided, I was just wondering if there was any advantage to using pwm as opposed to the regular headers on the fans. Also, any idea what my temps should be? I might need to reseat the heatsink as I'm getting temps in the 70-80 range when testing prime95


your temps are pretty normal if its that warm and with that voltage. I have my 3570k clocked at 4.4 as well but its only taking something like 1.16 or so volts under load so it struggles to get above the high 60's when the ambient is around 25c

I have had similar volts going to mine ( with previous overclock experiments) in similar temperatures with load temps in the 70's so its about normal. but a reaseat never hurts - especially with the amount of tim they give you


----------



## s7j3

hm, I'll try undervolting then and if its still the same ill reseat. Phanteks actually gave me 2 tubes because they messed up and gave me a broken mounting kit in the initial order. Thanks!


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s7j3*
> 
> hm, I'll try undervolting then and if its still the same ill reseat. Phanteks actually gave me 2 tubes because they messed up and gave me a broken mounting kit in the initial order. Thanks!


no problem, let us know how it turns out


----------



## s7j3

so undervolting seemed to work out but I reverted to original voltages because it's not recommended when using offset voltages. Side note, is there a difference when using the pwm adapter? I have 2 pinouts for cpu fans (one for 3 pin and one for pwm which also can be used as a 3 pin) so either configuration can work. I'm looking for the most optimal cfm if this matters


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s7j3*
> 
> so undervolting seemed to work out but I reverted to original voltages because it's not recommended when using offset voltages. Side note, is there a difference when using the pwm adapter? I have 2 pinouts for cpu fans (one for 3 pin and one for pwm which also can be used as a 3 pin) so either configuration can work. I'm looking for the most optimal cfm if this matters


You should be using 2x Phanteks fans with Y splitter and PWM adaptor on PWM mobo CPU fan socket.


----------



## .theMetal

yea the pwm adapter won't do you any good unless its plugged into the 4-pin cpu header.

also was your processor giving you trouble when you turned the volts down a bit? and where did you hear its not recommended just out of curiosity.

If your overclocking, you want the *least* possible amount of voltage for your processor to run smoothly - less volts running to it, the cooler it runs, the longer it lasts.


----------



## doyll

@ s7j3
You also need BIOS set for PWM control.


----------



## s7j3

the ivy/sandybridge guide for asrock motherboards. The author said that using a negative offset voltage is not recommended due to the fact that the offset applies to other multipliers when at idle. So instead of .9 volts at idle, a negative offset at -.1 would make it .8 which could cause instability when idling. I might revert back, because I'm pretty sure that my cpu can do 4.4 at 1.15. I don't have the link but I know its on this forum. I'll try using the pwm adapter to see if they give me better cfm when I get the time.


----------



## doyll

What rpm are the fans running now?


----------



## doyll

Max rpm should be same either way. PWM ramps down rpm as CPU load goes down.


----------



## s7j3

@doyll
I have them on max, but I'm at work right now so I'll report back to you later today. What should they be running on?


----------



## s7j3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Max rpm should be same either way. PWM ramps down rpm as CPU load goes down.


If I wanted max cooling, shouldn't I just leave the configuration as is? Or is it negligible since the pwm runs on load percentage?


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s7j3*
> 
> the ivy/sandybridge guide for asrock motherboards. The author said that using a negative offset voltage is not recommended due to the fact that the offset applies to other multipliers when at idle. So instead of .9 volts at idle, a negative offset at -.1 would make it .8 which could cause instability when idling. I might revert back, because I'm pretty sure that my cpu can do 4.4 at 1.15. I don't have the link but I know its on this forum. I'll try using the pwm adapter to see if they give me better cfm when I get the time.


hmmm interesting. when I get home (and hopefully get my computer up and running) let me give you the settings I am using at 4.4 and you can see how it runs. its at a positive offset right now


----------



## s7j3

Thanks heres my current config for the cpu i5 3570k 1.23volts 4.4 ghz. I was able to do 4.3 at 1.15 2 weeks ago but reverted it to my current settings.


----------



## doyll

Okay. I was using Thermalright TY-140 fans (700-1300rpm) with very good results. Now have TY-143 fans (700-2500rpm) in. Need to overclock again as I changed mobo from EX58-UD3R to X58A-UD3R rev. 2 and see what it will do.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Okay. I was using Thermalright TY-140 fans (700-1300rpm) with very good results. Now have TY-143 fans (700-2500rpm) in. Need to overclock again as I changed mobo from EX58-UD3R to X58A-UD3R rev. 2 and see what it will do.


give it hell


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s7j3*
> 
> Thanks heres my current config for the cpu i5 3570k 1.23volts 4.4 ghz. I was able to do 4.3 at 1.15 2 weeks ago but reverted it to my current settings.


here is what I have:

all core: 44
disable speed step
turbo voltage: 0.008
PLL Overvolt: disable
powersave: disable
offset = + .010
LLC: level 2
vtt: 1.104
PLL: 1.799

and I have the c3 and c6 states disabled I believe.

also I disable all of the IGPU stuff, I think its the bottom 3 settings under the advanced north bridge I believe? And I am overclocking my ram, I don't think it should have any effect if your ram is stable

Give this a try and see what you have to adjust. If it doesn't like it maybe bump the offset up a bit, do some tinkering. I know not every chip is the same but it is a good starting point for ya.


----------



## sherlock

Hi, I intend to install this on my new Rig
Chasis: Thor V2->Clearance is 180mm so I will be OK

My big concern right now is whether the fan clip would short my GPU, I will SLI so I have to use both PCIE3.0 slots(first one is right above the "ASRock"), do I have a clearance issue, do I have to pay for a Backplate for my GTX 670?:

Board is ASRock Z77 Extreme 4 and CPU is i5-3570K, will be playing BF3 MP on this so I have to OC as far as I can.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Hi, I intend to install this on my new Rig
> Chasis: Thor V2->Clearance is 180mm so I will be OK
> My big concern right now is whether the fan clip would short my GPU, I will SLI so I have to use both PCIE3.0 slots(first one is right above the "ASRock"), do I have a clearance issue, do I have to pay for a Backplate for my GTX 670?:
> Board is ASRock Z77 Extreme 4 and CPU is i5-3570K, will be playing BF3 MP on this so I have to OC as far as I can.


No worries I have the same board and I have a good half an inch between the clip and the pcb of the board. you can easily have a backplate and still not touch the fan clip.


----------



## Imports>Muscles

Does anyone know the cheapest place to purchase one of these in the US?


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imports>Muscles*
> 
> Does anyone know the cheapest place to purchase one of these in the US?


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709003 Here is the cheapest I found, with the -$20 Promo code it is 81.99(used to be 75.00 a few days ago), this is ending soon. The next cheapest is the white one on newegg for 89.99


----------



## s7j3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> here is what I have:
> all core: 44
> disable speed step
> turbo voltage: 0.008
> PLL Overvolt: disable
> powersave: disable
> offset = + .010
> LLC: level 2
> vtt: 1.104
> PLL: 1.799
> and I have the c3 and c6 states disabled I believe.
> also I disable all of the IGPU stuff, I think its the bottom 3 settings under the advanced north bridge I believe? And I am overclocking my ram, I don't think it should have any effect if your ram is stable
> Give this a try and see what you have to adjust. If it doesn't like it maybe bump the offset up a bit, do some tinkering. I know not every chip is the same but it is a good starting point for ya.


nice thanks. I got it down to 1.75 and the heat went down considerably but I bumped it up to 1.2 just for some more stability. Processor is still nice and cool


----------



## tw33k

Just changed the fans on my Phanteks. I now have UK-3000/AP-121/UK-3000. I also changed the TIM but this time I thought I'd try tinting the heatsink first. Results are far better than I expected.

CPU @ 4.5GHz



Delta temp was 21.7c compared to 29.4c with stock fans and without tinting.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> Just changed the fans on my Phanteks. I now have UK-3000/AP-121/UK-3000. I also changed the TIM but this time I thought I'd try tinting the heatsink first. Results are far better than I expected.
> CPU @ 4.5GHz
> 
> Delta temp was 21.7c compared to 29.4c with stock fans and without tinting.


Haven't tried tinting. Sounds like a good way to go.

When removing my heatsink to change motherboards I found the the very center of both was bare metal. Had used Phanteks paste. CPU was running cool.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> Just changed the fans on my Phanteks. I now have UK-3000/AP-121/UK-3000. I also changed the TIM but this time I thought I'd try tinting the heatsink first. Results are far better than I expected.
> CPU @ 4.5GHz
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Delta temp was 21.7c compared to 29.4c with stock fans and without tinting.


looks like its worth a try to me, how do you go about tinting? (don't even know what it means







)


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Haven't tried tinting. Sounds like a good way to go.
> When removing my heatsink to change motherboards I found the the very center of both was bare metal. Had used Phanteks paste. CPU was running cool.


Does this mean you recommend using custom TIM such as Arctic Silver 5 over the stock TIM that came with the Phanteks.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Does this mean you recommend using custom TIM such as Arctic Silver 5 over the stock TIM that came with the Phanteks.


No.
Just an observation.
My assumption is that was the high point of cooler/CPU contact and pushed all past out.








Maybe tinting would stop this from happening.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> looks like its worth a try to me, how do you go about tinting? (don't even know what it means
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


My understanding is tinting is similar to tinning when soldering pieces together. Prep both surfaces with a very thin layer of TIM and wipe off with clean cloth.. some use coffee filter. Theory is that this prep allows TIM to adhere to both surfaces and not slip out completely like my center did.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> My understanding is tinting is similar to tinning when soldering pieces together. Prep both surfaces with a very thin layer of TIM and wipe off with clean cloth.. some use coffee filter. Theory is that this prep allows TIM to adhere to both surfaces and not slip out completely like my center did.


Looks like I have a project this weekend. I will never use the massive tube of tim that came with the heatsink so I might as well experiment.

thanks doyll


----------



## doyll

Will be interested to see if your results are like tw33ks. If they are I will be doing mine too... but with AS5 as almost out of Phanteks tube.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Will be interested to see if your results are like tw33ks. If they are I will be doing mine too... but with AS5 as almost out of Phanteks tube.


I will do a before and after and post results.


----------



## tw33k

I only did the heatsink not the chip. Make sure you clean the surface first then rub the paste into it. Cover it entirely. Use a lint free cloth or, as doyll suggested a coffee filter to wipe off the excess. You'll know when it's done by the discoloration of the heatsink. This fills all the tiny imperfections in the base and allows better contact with the chip.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> I only did the heatsink not the chip. Make sure you clean the surface first then rub the paste into it. Cover it entirely. Use a lint free cloth or, as doyll suggested a coffee filter to wipe off the excess. You'll know when it's done by the discoloration of the heatsink. This fills all the tiny imperfections in the base and allows better contact with the chip.


ok cool would it hurt to do the chip as well?


----------



## tw33k

It wouldn't hurt but I don't know how effective it would be. Give it a go and see.

Also I should add, don't use your bare finger. I wrapped mine in a few layers of cling wrap to spread the paste. I thought of using a latex glove but they are too thin and would probably wear through. You have to rub pretty hard which is why it's best to use your finger.


----------



## sherlock

Those of you that use the stock TIM that came with the case, How good is it? Would using it instead of an Aftermarket one like AS5 set me back 2-4 degrees C? Do you believe using stock TIM limited your OC potential?


----------



## doyll

As good as most and better than some.
No
No


----------



## sherlock

Thanks for answering my question.


----------



## doyll

No problem. I assume by case you mean cooler.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No problem. I assume by case you mean cooler.


Yeah, I mean the packaging that came along with the cooler itself, should have said box lol


----------



## Moparman

If your going to use another paste i would recommend Pk-1 or Pk-3 tim.


----------



## tcool93

This is probably a stupid question. But does that PWM adapter allow you to view the fan speed? And does it have drawbacks compared to a fan that has PWM built in?

I haven't read all this thread yet, but also wondered if you could use your own fans with the wire brackets.


----------



## Xinoxide

Thinking of grabbing a phanteks here pretty soon.

However, My fans of choice are Delta AFC1212DE's which are 38mm thick.

I have 3 of.

*Would it be possible to fit one in the middle?* How hard would it be to get that extra little bit of gap between them?

Some people say I have been a little crazy about high airflow in tight spaces. ( in other words, I like the idea of air force, not air flow )


----------



## tw33k

I have 2x UK-3000s and I thought about squeezing a 3rd one in the middle but fear of potential damage outweighed the desire to lower temps a couple degrees.


----------



## sherlock

My 14PE just arrived in the mail and will be installed when I put together my new computer tomorrw:

couple questions:

1. The "tinting" you guys mentioned, could I do that with a double folded tissue?(don't have any clean cloth or coffee filter atm).

2.Mounting this onto a LGA1155 socket(IB CPU), should I do the mounting after bolting the mobo into the case or do it outside of the case with the mobo laying on top of its box?


----------



## HCore

Here's a quick how-to guide on *TINTING*. Starts on page 4.

Tinting Article


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> My 14PE just arrived in the mail and will be installed when I put together my new computer tomorrw:
> 
> couple questions:
> 1. The "tinting" you guys mentioned, could I do that with a double folded tissue?(don't have any clean cloth or coffee filter atm).
> 2.Mounting this onto a LGA1155 socket(IB CPU), should I do the mounting after bolting the mobo into the case or do it outside of the case with the mobo laying on top of its box?


Paper towel would be better as tissue is not lint free.

You can mount before or after whichever is easier.... both for mounting cooler and installing motherboard.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Paper towel would be better as tissue is not lint free.


I have always used paper towels. My fancy coffee maker doesn't use filters








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HCore*
> 
> Here's a quick how-to guide on *TINTING*. Starts on page 4.
> Tinting Article


Thanks friend


----------



## .theMetal

Just tinted and the results are as follows:

Before:


After:


The ambients dropped considerably while I had the computer taken apart, but I kept track. Everything is in c.

Hottest core temps before (32c ambient):

Core 0 = 69
Core 1 = 72
Core 2 = 75
Core 3 = 73
Package = 80

Hottest core temps after (30c ambient):

Core 0 = 65
Core 1 = 68
Core 2 = 70
Core 3 = 68
Package = 75

Subtract ambient temp before:

Core 0 = 37
Core 1 = 40
Core 2 = 43
Core 3 = 41
Package = 48

Subtract ambient temp after:

Core 0 = 35
Core 1 = 38
Core 2 = 40
Core 3 = 38
Package = 45

Drop:

Core 0 = -2
Core 1 = -2
Core 2 = -3
Core 3 = -3
Package = -3

So I guess it did help, even though my ambients messed with the test a bit. The processor is at 4.4ghz and according to hwmonitor the most amount of voltage that went to it was 1.21, though most of the times I looked at it it was hovering around 1.18

I think its probably worth a try if you have some extra tim laying around. Knowing this, I will continue to tint the processor and heatsink when ever I put one on


----------



## doyll

Very nice.








Assume before and after are using same TIM.
What TIM are you using?


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Very nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Assume before and after are using same TIM.
> What TIM are you using?


yes same TIM before and after, I'm using the phanteks paste


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> yes same TIM before and after, I'm using the phanteks paste


Same here but almost out. When next I pull cooler I will use what is on it to tint. Seems to make sense as it's already there so wipe off instead of super-clean, spread on and wipe off.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Same here but almost out. When next I pull cooler I will use what is on it to tint. Seems to make sense as it's already there so wipe off instead of super-clean, spread on and wipe off.


yea I actually didn't do a super clean, I just wiped the excess off and pressed some new stuff in. It actually does waste a bit of paste doing this but it does make sense to do. An old credit card also helped me spread it and press it into the surfaces.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> yea I actually didn't do a super clean, I just wiped the excess off and pressed some new stuff in. It actually does waste a bit of paste doing this but it does make sense to do. An old credit card also helped me spread it and press it into the surfaces.


When I'm seating a new cooler... especially if on a new CPU I usually pull it off to make sure I got a good seat. Perfect time to rub in TIM for a good tint.. Never did a real rub in before but have just wiped off and put new dob on.


----------



## fishinfiend

I have a question, now for the white Phantek is the cooler silver or is it white? I know the fans are white but I want to know the cooler color.


----------



## tw33k

The cooler is silver


----------



## KleanAce45

Hi everyone...so I started my first build "Excelsior", already have all the parts but ran into a lilttle hiccup mounting the PH-TC14PE onto the Rampage IV mobo. So my question is do I use the X-Socket + Backplate option or the stock 2011 module + socket screw that came with the board. The instructions that came with it isn't precise and btw awesome thread just finished reading all of it.


----------



## doyll

You are mounting cooler on your socket 2011 3930?
If so this link might help
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/LGA-2011-i7-3960X-Air-Overclocking,3130-11.html

Sorry but mine is on socket 1366


----------



## OneTreeHill

Hi guys,im a new member of the group.

My Rig



Result [Room tempature 20 Celcius]



And detailed user review

http://forum.donanimhaber.com/m_65873989/tm.htm


----------



## doyll

Beautiful job!









But I have to question your temps. 21, 20, 21, 22 idle in a 20c room?. CPUs run more than 1c warmer than ambient.

A couple of questions about fan layout. Assume it's 1 bottom, 2x front and 1x top intake with optical bay directed at cooler. Where is optical bay fan drawing air from?


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneTreeHill*
> 
> Hi guys,im a new member of the group.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My Rig
> 
> Result [Room tempature 20 Celcius]
> 
> And detailed user review
> 
> 
> http://forum.donanimhaber.com/m_65873989/tm.htm


Quite excellent, I have a thing for the blue version.


----------



## eftj

Hello people. I recently built a new rig that featured the Phanteks ph-tc14pe_BL.

I absolutely love it, but I did have some problems with installation. One of the brackets was bent and took some force to make it fit. But I got there in the end.

I'm buying some blue Bitfenix Spectres next week.


----------



## sherlock

These Blue mods look nice, I am selling my 212 Evo and going for a Blue fan mod with PH-TC14PE_BL+3X Bitfenix Spectre Pro 230mm soon.


----------



## Derrickb1974

Not sure if this has been posted, but a new review of the Phanteks PH-TC14PE has been posted on Youtube by Skratchwiz PC.

Spoiler Alert: It beat the Nocuta NH-D14 and the Antec Kuhler 920 coolers. No surprise right?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AtXlwedPvS4&feature=g-all-u


----------



## Alex of the West

will this cooler fit in a Fractal Design Define R4? i really love the aestetics of it. I purchased the white cooler and the white r4 would look glorious with it.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex of the West*
> 
> will this cooler fit in a Fractal Design Define R4? i really love the aestetics of it. I purchased the white cooler and the white r4 would look glorious with it.


Well not sure my raven case says the max cooler height is 163mm and it fits fine in here - I have to have fairly short ram though. One thing though, the white cooler is not actually white its silver. The fans are white but the fins and top are chrome. A lot of the pictures of it are deceiving.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex of the West*
> 
> will this cooler fit in a Fractal Design Define R4? i really love the aestetics of it. I purchased the white cooler and the white r4 would look glorious with it.


Yes it will fit.

TC14 w/stock & w/TY-143 in R2


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yes it will fit.
> TC14 w/stock & w/TY-143 in R2


Any specific reason you mount the 14PE vertically? I am considering getting a Define R4 and was considering mounting it horizontally.


----------



## doyll

Yes:
*Have only 165mm clearance and RAM is 32mm... 140 + 32 = 172mm








*Back vent is 120mm compared to cooler being 140mm.

As it is the NB heatsink under bottom fan + 140mm fan clears side vent cover in side cover by 2-3mm.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yes:
> *Have only 165mm clearance and RAM is 32mm... 140 + 32 = 172mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Back vent is 120mm compared to cooler being 140mm.
> As it is the NB heatsink under bottom fan + 140mm fan clears side vent cover in side cover by 2-3mm.


Alright, for my new build I am using the Samsung lower profile Ram(22mm) in a Define R4 I think I will be fine mounting it either way with its 170 HSF clearance.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Alright, for my new build I am using the Samsung lower profile Ram(22mm) in a Define R4 I think I will be fine mounting it either way with its 170 HSF clearance.


With room to spare. The way I like it.









Have you considered the problem the stock feet limiting the intake airflow to bottom fans? If R4 has same feet as R2 they are only 16.5mm tall. A 140mm fan needs at least 40mm clearance. (fan blade area versus circumference X 40mm; 15.4 sq cm fan & 17.8 sq cm air access with 40mm bottom clearance. Images of mine show 50mm clearance. 40mm casters on base. Base is 10mm thick on sides and 20mm front & rear. Sides strips are 10mm thick with piece across back on bottom of them. This allow filter to slide in and out.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> With room to spare. The way I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you considered the problem the stock feet limiting the intake airflow to bottom fans? If R4 has same feet as R2 they are only 16.5mm tall. A 140mm fan needs at least 40mm clearance. (fan blade area versus circumference X 40mm; 15.4 sq cm fan & 17.8 sq cm air access with 40mm bottom clearance. Images of mine show 50mm clearance. 40mm casters on base. Base is 10mm thick on sides and 20mm front & rear. Sides strips are 10mm thick with piece across back on bottom of them. This allow filter to slide in and out.


Hmm, that's a interesting fan mod idea, I might considering going picking up some wood blocks for my R4 to stand on. Did you buy that Wheel kit or yours or did you make it yourself?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Hmm, that's a interesting fan mod idea, I might considering going picking up some wood blocks for my R4 to stand on. Did you buy that Wheel kit or yours or did you make it yourself?


Yes, made it myself. Have made several here in UK.

Drop into one of your local bespoke wood shops and ask for 4 blocks. They will probably cut you 4 for free.








Know I would.


----------



## BarryBGB

Just in case someone wants a decent cooler that is on sale.
The Noctua NH-D14 is $20 off today only at Newegg for their 24hr sale.
http://promotions.newegg.com/NEemail/Sep-0-2012/24HOUR20/index-landing.html?nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL092012&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL092012-_-EMC-092012-Index-_-E0-_-SeeAll#$50

I myself have the Phantek with 3 fans and like it alot.
I think it is better than the Noctua but someone might not have the money to buy one.
Whenever I get around to it, I will take some pics of my rig and post them.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BarryBGB*
> 
> Just in case someone wants a decent cooler that is on sale.
> The Noctua NH-D14 is $20 off today only at Newegg for their 24hr sale.
> http://promotions.newegg.com/NEemail/Sep-0-2012/24HOUR20/index-landing.html?nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL092012&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL092012-_-EMC-092012-Index-_-E0-_-SeeAll#$50
> I myself have the Phantek with 3 fans and like it alot.
> I think it is better than the Noctua but someone might not have the money to buy one.
> Whenever I get around to it, I will take some pics of my rig and post them.


I have round tuits up the gazzo. Will gladly give you 4 or even 5 if you like









Had NH-U12P before PH-TC14PE. Was a good cooler but of course not being as big not as good as TC14. I've also found TY-140 fans to be quieter and cool better... not just CPU but also my NB chip on X58A-UD3R. Under TC14 stock fans 80c. Removed blue Gigabyte covers from heatsink and dropped to 55-60c @600rpm. Up rpm to 800 and dropped to 52c Changed to TY-140 fans and dropped to 45c @ 700rpm (as slow as ET6 will set TY140)









Why PH-F140TS @ 800rpm NB is 52c and TR TY-140 @ 700rpm it's 45c?







Gremlins?


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have round tuits up the gazzo. Will gladly give you 4 or even 5 if you like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had NH-U12P before PH-TC14PE. Was a good cooler but of course not being as big not as good as TC14. I've also found TY-140 fans to be quieter and cool better... not just CPU but also my NB chip on X58A-UD3R. Under TC14 stock fans 80c. Removed blue Gigabyte covers from heatsink and dropped to 55-60c @600rpm. Up rpm to 800 and dropped to 52c Changed to TY-140 fans and dropped to 45c @ 700rpm (as slow as ET6 will set TY140)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why PH-F140TS @ 800rpm NB is 52c and TR TY-140 @ 700rpm it's 45c?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gremlins?


The only thing making me balk at using TY140/141 is that they are 160mm wide instead of 140mm I believe, so that means the fan clip will come a lot closer to my PCIE3.0 slot(expansion slot 2) and could short my GPU if it touches the back PCB, unless I mount it pointing down.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> The only thing making me balk at using TY140/141 is that they are 160mm wide instead of 140mm I believe, so that means the fan clip will come a lot closer to my PCIE3.0 slot(expansion slot 2) and could short my GPU if it touches the back PCB, unless I mount it pointing down.


Well fan and fan clip are not the same bird.The additional 10mm width means fans stick out about 2mm beyond fan clips.







Fan clip fits the same with TY-140/141/143 as it does with stock fan. The stock clip pins will not work but pull-ties make clip pins that look almost like the real thing.








 Yeah I know. It's in backwards.









You can see how fans fit here


TY-140/141/143/145 are not 160x140mm They are 151x141mm. Thermalright has been lying to you for years.


Yes, 10mm wider than square 140mm fan, but will fit a lot more places than if they were really 160mm


----------



## OneTreeHill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Beautiful job!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I have to question your temps. 21, 20, 21, 22 idle in a 20c room?. CPUs run more than 1c warmer than ambient.
> A couple of questions about fan layout. Assume it's 1 bottom, 2x front and 1x top intake with optical bay directed at cooler. Where is optical bay fan drawing air from?


Actually air conditioning was set to 20 degrees. The room temperature was around 20 degrees to 18.

This fan only there for visual.Works with 5V


----------



## doyll

You can't have a room at 20c and CPU at 20c.








Unless computer is turned off.








Your two GPUs can easily raise case temp 2c.. even with good airflow.
Quote:


> Actually air conditioning was set to 20 degrees. The room temperature was around 20 degrees to 18.










You need a thermometer near the intake of your case. Your results are often only change a couple of degrees. Tell us what the air conditioning was set at is really meaningless. You need a thermometer reading near air intake to case.

Sorry but without an accurate baseline time for each screen shot means the reading are + or - 1-2c delta. 25c is 5-7c... and that's assuming your air conditioning themometer is accurate and in same room.

With accurate air temperature at computer intakes it would be a great review .









And I still really like your build. You did a great job.


----------



## BarryBGB

Well, finally got around to snapping a few pics.
That Thermaltake case is large. Did I say large, I mean HUGE!









[/URL]
Here is a shot of my whole desk with the funky looking monitor setup. (Samsung 40" 3D 1920/[email protected] + Asus VG278HE 1920/[email protected] + Viewsonic VX2835Wm 1920/[email protected])
After I get my 27" 2560/[email protected] monitor, I plan on getting 2 more and have 3 mounted with wall mounts for surround.
Can't wait.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BarryBGB*
> 
> Well, finally got around to snapping a few pics.
> That Thermaltake case is large. Did I say large, I mean HUGE!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> 
> 
> Here is a shot of my whole desk with the funky looking monitor setup. (Samsung 40" 3D 1920/[email protected] + Asus VG278HE 1920/[email protected] + Viewsonic VX2835Wm 1920/[email protected])
> After I get my 27" 2560/[email protected] monitor, I plan on getting 2 more and have 3 mounted with wall mounts for surround.
> Can't wait.


Nice looking rig! I like that case. I am one of the strange people on OCN who doesn't mind some strange shaped plastic on my cases.









Phanteks looks good, The only thing I would say is you might take a bit more time organizing your cables. Re-routing them through the holes will greatly increase airflow in your case.

I know its a pita, but the better your cables are managed, the cooler your equipment runs









also at first I thought the tv on the left of the main screen was a picture on the wall! second glance told me otherwise.


----------



## AMD_Freak

Added BarryBGB to the members List


----------



## BarryBGB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Nice looking rig! I like that case. I am one of the strange people on OCN who doesn't mind some strange shaped plastic on my cases.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks looks good, The only thing I would say is you might take a bit more time organizing your cables. Re-routing them through the holes will greatly increase airflow in your case.
> I know its a pita, but the better your cables are managed, the cooler your equipment runs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also at first I thought the tv on the left of the main screen was a picture on the wall! second glance told me otherwise.


Thanks for the Kudo's.
I know it doesn't look like it but I did use every hole I could. I could probably neat it up with some black ties. The main problem was with the length of the Seasonic cables. Especially the CPU power cable. The other short cable is the Thermaltake Level 10 GT USB 3.0 20 pin cable that plugs into the motherboard. I really love that Thermaltake case. I even purchased 5 more HD caddys in Black instead of the snow color. That way I can swap out HD's easily.
I just built this in May/June but already thinking about building another based on the P67. May wait for the GTX700 series cards and next Intel chips first though.

Now the cables in the back of the desk is another thing. There are 20+ outlets, a slew of bricks, 7 port Network Switch, 5 port HDMI switcher, 1000W UPS, etc, etc. I did put the side monitor cables in a cable tube though.

I try not to look behind there too often as it make me nauseated. Here is a side pic.


----------



## BarryBGB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> Added BarryBGB to the members List


Wow, how does one get on a members list? (should have done multi-quote)


----------



## sherlock

Alright, first count me on the Member's list:



Blue in an R4, will get some Blue LEDs to go with it.

Also I did some tinting before mounting:



This good enough?

Also, This much TIM enough?


----------



## doyll

Looks Great!









Looks like it might be a bit much TIM, but hard to tell. As long as it isn't oozing all over you are fine.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks Great!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like it might be a bit much TIM, but hard to tell. As long as it isn't oozing all over you are fine.


Alright, i will keep that in mind when I new mobo gets here Monday, seem like a rice grain size would be just enough and anything more is overkill.

My biggest problem right now is ASRock's fan control have only a cruise speed and a full throttle speed so when I run benchmarks it will automatically run both my PH-140s at 1366 RPM each which is kinda noisy even in a R4, thing should get better when I replace(resale to a friend) my Extreme 4 with a ASUS Z77-V with Fan Xpert2, I considered Speedfan but I heard its temperature sensor isn't that accurate so I opted to firmware.


----------



## gregoire

I have ordered a black CPU cooler about two weeks ago and still no ETA (from digitec in Switzerland).
Should I cancel it in order to change the color (I don't have a window in my tower anyway...) or will they come in a near future ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregoire*
> 
> I have ordered a black CPU cooler about two weeks ago and still no ETA (from digitec in Switzerland).
> Should I cancel it in order to change the color (I don't have a window in my tower anyway...) or will they come in a near future ?


Why don't you contacted digitec and asked them what's happening?


----------



## gregoire

I didn't because the item is listed as in request from there part and waiting for update (it's only the case for the black one which was my question here to know if you know if Phanteks have began to sell black's one).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregoire*
> 
> I didn't because the item is listed as in request from there part and waiting for update (it's only the case for the black one which was my question here to know if you know if Phanteks have began to sell black's one).


Understand now.

There are a couple retailers listing them online as in stock, but


----------



## Lizard-Brain

I was seriously thinking about watercooling this time but then again my passion for silent PCs took over and I rather chose to buy one of the most expensive CPU coolers. In the end that decision saved me quite some money actually which was another reason to keep my hands off from watercooling. Contemporary air coolers are so good that it is hard to justify a watercooled build as you can achieve almost the same performance on a quieter and smaller footprint with air.

  

  

  

I think Prime95 is a strange benchmark for temperatures because some of its tests during one and the same torture test can be more or less intense. That makes a difference of about 8°C in my case. I could tell that during a Prime95 torture test my CPU has a maximum load temperature of 69°C with 4.7 GHz @ 1.43 V. But after the first 24 tests that temperature goes up to 77°C. Compare the graphs in the HWiNFO gadget:


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lizard-Brain*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I was seriously thinking about watercooling this time but then again my passion for silent PCs took over and I rather chose to buy one of the most expensive CPU coolers. In the end that decision saved me quite some money actually which was another reason to keep my hands off from watercooling. Contemporary air coolers are so good that it is hard to justify a watercooled build as you can achieve almost the same performance on a quieter and smaller footprint with air.
> 
> 
> 
> I think Prime95 is a strange benchmark for temperatures because some of its tests during one and the same torture test can be more or less intense. That makes a difference of about 8°C in my case. I could tell that during a Prime95 torture test my CPU has a maximum load temperature of 69°C with 4.7 GHz @ 1.43 V. But after the first 24 tests that temperature goes up to 77°C. Compare the graphs in the HWiNFO gadget:


That is an extremely nice build

And now that I know my phanteks will fit in that tiny case, its even more tempting to grab a tiny board


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yes, made it myself. Have made several here in UK.
> Drop into one of your local bespoke wood shops and ask for 4 blocks. They will probably cut you 4 for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Know I would.



Got my wood blocks( 3.5"X3.5"X7.5") combined with the Case stands, the bottom filter is about 4-4.5" off the ground now.


----------



## doyll




----------



## sherlock

New photos on my 14PE, remounted on my new ASUS Mobo:





How is the TIM this time around?(NT-H1)


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> New photos on my 14PE, remounted on my new ASUS Mobo:
> 
> 
> 
> How is the TIM this time around?(NT-H1)


Did you push something into the TIM after you applied it? Hope it wasn't your bare finger. Not sure it would have spread very well like that.


----------



## adzsask

Ordered one for my friends new build last week...top plate fell off when I removed the cooler from it's packaging...and just felt, cheap. Tossed my old SA on there and returned the damaged POS for full refund.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> Did you push something into the TIM after you applied it? Hope it wasn't your bare finger. Not sure it would have spread very well like that.


Not my bare finger, I thought I added a bit much so I picked up some with a paper towel. The Prime result doesn't seem to be up to par so I will be remounting/reapplying this soon before I OC the CPU.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Not my bare finger, I thought I added a bit much so I picked up some with a paper towel. The Prime result doesn't seem to be up to par so I will be remounting/reapplying this soon before I OC the CPU.


If you check out my sig, you can see a few pages back where I tinted the heat sink before applying the tim and saw a few degrees drop in temp. you might give it a try.

Basically the point is to press the tim into the processor and heat sink on every square mm of the surfaces. then simply wipe away the excess and apply regularly. It fills in the microscopic cracks all the way out to the edges of the surfaces.

For applying just put the size of a grain of uncooked rice in the middle and install the heat sink evenly. (tighten one side one turn, then the other side one turn back and forth till they are all the way down).


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> If you check out my sig, you can see a few pages back where I tinted the heat sink before applying the tim and saw a few degrees drop in temp. you might give it a try.
> Basically the point is to press the tim into the processor and heat sink on every square mm of the surfaces. then simply wipe away the excess and apply regularly. It fills in the microscopic cracks all the way out to the edges of the surfaces.
> For applying just put the size of a grain of uncooked rice in the middle and install the heat sink evenly. (tighten one side one turn, then the other side one turn back and forth till they are all the way down).


So you tint both the Cooler and CPU? I did some tinting but only for the heatsink.

If I recall:

1.Apply Tim to the CPU(pea size? 7mm long strip?)
2. Put the Heatsink onto the CPU, rotate a bit to get TIM spread out on both
3. Wipe off TIM with lint free paper towel/coffee filter on both CPU and Heatsink
4. reapply Tim and mount.

Correct?


----------



## doyll

Pea size is too much.

I apply a small amount to heatsink, rub in like using polishing compound on car and wipe off. Don't scrub off, just wipe off









Actual CPU core is much smaller than CPU cover. i7 3770

As almost all heat from CPU core come straight through the cover, yeah a little radiates sideways but not much or very far... does that mean as long as heatsink / cpu core area has good TIM seat the rest doesn't matter much? I can't answer that one.


----------



## .theMetal

I actually just did one side at a time, Just put some on and spread it around and press it in with an old credit card until the whole base has a grey tint. Then gently wipe off the excess. It didn't take too much paste.

Then Treat it like normal and install it with the grain of rice sized paste and screw it down evenly.


----------



## sherlock

Thanks for the info, will reseat sometime this weekend using this method.


----------



## fishinfiend

What do you guys think of my temps with Phantek Cooler.

Here is a link to my Temps and Specs.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1310220/3570k-temps-with-phantek-cooler


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishinfiend*
> 
> What do you guys think of my temps with Phantek Cooler.
> Here is a link to my Temps and Specs.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1310220/3570k-temps-with-phantek-cooler


Not too bad for the clock speed. What are your ambient temps like?


----------



## fishinfiend

If I remember right it around 72 F (22.222 C) in the house.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishinfiend*
> 
> If I remember right it around 72 F (22.222 C) in the house.


Yea the temps are fine. anything over 90c I would start to worry about, but you might want to see how low you can get them at 4.5 or maybe even 4.4. That is a fairly cool house and the temps are getting close to the high side. My proc is at 4.4 and it hangs in the upper 60's even when the house is around 80f. if they are around 72c like yours, they will be around the mid to low 60's.


----------



## rayzzr

I currently have a CM212EVO with dual Gentle Typhoons AP15s, in a push/pull config and currently have my i5 2550k overclocked stable at 4.5Ghz. Temps at idle in a 22C room are generally at or below 30C. I have a ton of airflow in my case - 8 fans in all - all of them set to intake cooler air. At load with Prime95, I see 74C as the highs on my cores in that same 22C room.

So, looking at the charts, it appears that the Phantecs is better at cooling, but would I stand to gain that much if I switched coolers? For the money I'm just trying to figure out of the juice is worth the squeeze


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayzzr*
> 
> I currently have a CM212EVO with dual Gentle Typhoons AP15s, in a push/pull config and currently have my i5 2550k overclocked stable at 4.5Ghz. Temps at idle in a 22C room are generally at or below 30C. I have a ton of airflow in my case - 8 fans in all - all of them set to intake cooler air. At load with Prime95, I see 74C as the highs on my cores in that same 22C room.
> So, looking at the charts, it appears that the Phantecs is better at cooling, but would I stand to gain that much if I switched coolers? For the money I'm just trying to figure out of the juice is worth the squeeze


8 intake fans??? Air needs someplace to go. You can't add water to a full bucket. What case and where are all these fans mounted?


----------



## .theMetal

yes agree with doyll. You need some air sucked out of that thing. If you don't have any fans pulling air out, flip at least three of those fans to be exhausting and I bet you will see temp drops


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 8 intake fans??? Air needs someplace to go. You can't add water to a full bucket. What case and where are all these fans mounted?


I I found this on newegg description of a Blackhawk(his case)
2 x Front 120mm Blue LED Fan (pre-installed)

1 x Rear 120mm Fan (pre-installed)

1 x Side 120mm Fan (pre-installed)

140mm Fans
1 x Top 140mm Blue LED Fan (pre-installed) or 2 x 120/140mm Fan (optional)

1 x Bottom 1x 120/140mm Fan (optional)

Plus there is another Fan mount on the bottom 3 5.25" drive bay cover,

So that totals 8 Fan mounts
Have to admit, for a $90 case it packs a ton of fan (5) & fan mounts(8)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> I I found this on newegg description of a Blackhawk(his case)
> 2 x Front 120mm Blue LED Fan (pre-installed)
> 1 x Rear 120mm Fan (pre-installed)
> 1 x Side 120mm Fan (pre-installed)
> 140mm Fans
> 1 x Top 140mm Blue LED Fan (pre-installed) or 2 x 120/140mm Fan (optional)
> 1 x Bottom 1x 120/140mm Fan (optional)
> Plus there is another Fan mount on the bottom 3 5.25" drive bay cover,
> So that totals 8 Fan mounts
> Have to admit, for a $90 case it packs a ton of fan (5) & fan mounts(8)


Will wait for OP to explain where the 8 fans are.


----------



## sherlock

Going from that newegg descrpiton and the fact he used all 8 avaliable fan mounts:

I think this is his layout:
3X 120mm front intake
2X 120mm top intake(above the Mobo)
1X Rear 120mm intake
1X Bottom 120mm intake
1X Side(over the PCIE area) 120mm intake.

So if I were him I'd switch the top 2 & rear 1 fan to exhaust for a positive airflow setup or flip the side intake to an exhaust also for a balanced airflow setup.


----------



## doyll

That's a lot of advice without knowing what OP has... Fan CFM ratings, how many hdds are blocking front intakes to name but a few.

I prefer giving advice based on what is actually involved.

But that's just the way I am.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> That's a lot of advice without knowing what OP has... Fan CFM ratings, how many hdds are blocking front intakes to name but a few.
> I prefer giving advice based on what is actually involved.
> But that's just the way I am.


Well that is true, what I listed is a general idea based on an assumption as I stated. Which could change depend what what exactly he had.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Well that is true, what I listed is a general idea based on an assumption as I stated. Which could change depend what what exactly he had.


Indeed.

Spoken like a true politician.









Suggestions based on assumptions are based on no facts. With no facts... well... it's like invisible smoke in the wind.


----------



## rayzzr

http://www.overclock.net/t/1041926/how-to-decide-on-a-case-for-air-cooling-warning-pics/1620#post_18250993

That thread shows the layout of my case. And the air does get out, the top, bottom and front are essentially mesh so the air gets out pretty much on its own and in a hurry. I had higher temps with the top fans exhausting....


----------



## Airrick10

I have an antec Kuler 620...would I benefit from getting one of these?

Current Kuler 620 cpu temps:

Idle: 32C
Highest temp during Intel Burn Test: 52C
Playing BF3: 40-42C


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> I have an antec Kuler 620...would I benefit from getting one of these?
> Current Kuler 620 cpu temps:
> Idle: 32C
> Highest temp during Intel Burn Test: 52C
> Playing BF3: 40-42C


In Hightechlegion's 14 PE review, it outbenched a Antec 920 so it will be a big improvement over your 620


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayzzr*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1041926/how-to-decide-on-a-case-for-air-cooling-warning-pics/1620#post_18250993
> That thread shows the layout of my case. And the air does get out, the top, bottom and front are essentially mesh so the air gets out pretty much on its own and in a hurry. I had higher temps with the top fans exhausting....


There's nothing wrong with your set up. Computer cases aren't air tight. There are plenty of places for air to escape. In my AMD rig I have no exhaust fans at all and my temps are incredible (For proof click the Phanteks tinting link in my sig)


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> In Hightechlegion's 14 PE review, it outbenched a Antec 920 so it will be a big improvement over your 620


Thanks!







Pretty cool!!! (pun intended lol) I guess I'll have to do away with my ram cooler to install this beast!!!


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty cool!!! (pun intended lol) I guess I'll have to do away with my ram cooler to install this beast!!!


You wouldn't miss it since this cooler will keep your rams cool anyway.


----------



## KleanAce45

So after running my first build for the past 2 weeks the only audible noise are the case fans or the gpu when gaming. The Phanteks PH-TC14PE is silent with the 3 fan setup and my cpu temp ranges from low 30s when idle and 37ish when gaming. I couldn't be more happy with the setup and performance







.
 
Two fan setup ___________________________________Three fan setup

Heatsink clearance with G.SKILL Ripjaws Z

i7-3930K overclock to 4.5 @ 1.4volt


----------



## homestyle

If I installed this on a gigabyte z77x-ud3h would it block any pcie lanes?


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> If I installed this on a gigabyte z77x-ud3h would it block any pcie lanes?


^^^This...I too would like to know since I have a sound card on the very 1st (top) pci-e


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> ^^^This...I too would like to know since I have a sound card on the very 1st (top) pci-e


If you mean the PCIE3.0 16X slot, it won't block that. However the top PCI slot might be dicey.

Here is my 14PE mounted on an ASUS P8Z77-V(standard ATX), 1st slot PCI, 2nd slot PCIE3.0 so same layout as UD3H:


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> If you mean the PCIE3.0 16X slot, it won't block that. However the top PCI slot might be dicey.
> Here is my 14PE mounted on an ASUS P8Z77-V(standard ATX), 1st slot PCI, 2nd slot PCIE3.0 so same layout as UD3H:


Thanks for the reply! It looks like I'll be loosing that 1st PCI-e slot above my graphics card


----------



## doyll

Measure from centerline of CPU to PCI slot.

Measure cooler and divide by 2

If half of cooler measurement is less than distance from centerline of CPU to PCI slot you can use the slot.

If half of cooler measurement is more than distance from centerline of CPU to PCI slot you can not use the slot.

Final test is fit cooler and see.


----------



## jcamp6336

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex of the West*
> 
> will this cooler fit in a Fractal Design Define R4? i really love the aestetics of it. I purchased the white cooler and the white r4 would look glorious with it.


I thought the same thing!





only with a blue one


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Measure from centerline of CPU to PCI slot.
> Measure cooler and divide by 2
> If half of cooler measurement is less than distance from centerline of CPU to PCI slot you can use the slot.
> If half of cooler measurement is more than distance from centerline of CPU to PCI slot you can not use the slot.
> Final test is fit cooler and see.


Thanks for the tip Doyll


----------



## homestyle

Would this cooler fit in a lancool pc-k62?


----------



## K4RIMIN4L

Got this cooler in red


----------



## sherlock

Modded mine 14PE with TY-143 fans, so far I haven't seen much of an improvement but that might be because ASUS fan control messing with me, my god is the 2500rpm ridiculously loud.

@Doyll, at what RPM do you run these things?


----------



## eftj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcamp6336*
> 
> I thought the same thing!
> only with a blue one


Wow, that looks fantastic!

And no, you aren't. I have the BL as well.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Modded mine 14PE with TY-143 fans, so far I haven't seen much of an improvement but that might be because ASUS fan control messing with me, my god is the 2500rpm ridiculously loud.
> @Doyll, at what RPM do you run these things?


Idle is 700-730rpm; i7 980 @ 3.5GHz is 23-26c
Load is 1000-1100; CPU is 50-53c
Ambient is 20-22c

Cooler/fans start getting louder around 1400rpm with fans developing a blade whine which continues to increase in pitch as rpm go up.

Just did a bunch of mods on R2 today. Case fans are all TY-140 now. 2x front and 1x bottom intake. 1x back exhaust. TC14PE running 2x TY-143 exhausting up with top vents open. All fans are on PWM splitter with CPU fan as master.
I'm planning to overclock and hopefully get 4.4-4.6GHz @ 65-70c running 1700-2000rpm

TY-140. TY-143
. 601rpm 709rpm
. 692. . . 711
. 806. . . 792
. 900. . . 990
. 998 . . 1269
1100 . . 1650
1203 . . 2000
1300 . . 2491


----------



## jcamp6336

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eftj*
> 
> Wow, that looks fantastic!
> And no, you aren't. I have the BL as well.


oh i thought you had a white one for some reason


----------



## mezmenir

Just got my BitFenix 140s (3 more) today, and a pair of TY-140







Going to do a little dremeling on these BitFenix fans and slap them on the TC14. If that doesn't work, that's what the TY-140 are for!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mezmenir*
> 
> Just got my BitFenix 140s (3 more) today, and a pair of TY-140
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to do a little dremeling on these BitFenix fans and slap them on the TC14. If that doesn't work, that's what the TY-140 are for!


Will be interesting to see how the BitFenix compare to TY-140 on TC14. I've ran stock fans, TY-140 fans, and TY-143 fans on mine. TY-140 is quietest but almost identical to TY-143... up to 1300rpm


----------



## tw33k

I used the last of my CoolLabs Liquid Ultra on my Phanteks just now. I'm still running the stress test but it looks like temps dropped 10c! I'll post results when finished.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> I used the last of my CoolLabs Liquid Ultra on my Phanteks just now. I'm still running the stress test but it looks like temps dropped 10c! I'll post results when finished.


Wow! That's a huge difference! Almost too much to believe.









Edit: that sounds bad. I really do believe you.


----------



## Speshy

Liquid ultra performs brilliantly, but based on what I've read, it's hell to remove and permanently marks the surface of of both cooler and chip.

I could be wrong, but I faintly recall reading that it virtually welded someone's chip/cooler together too.


----------



## tw33k

You're thinking of Liquid Pro. Liquid Ultra doesn't have those problems


----------



## BarryBGB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> You're thinking of Liquid Pro. Liquid Ultra doesn't have those problems


I never heard of Liquid Ultra until now. Sounds like a great TP. I just ordered some yesterday and will try it when it arrives.


----------



## HAVO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> I used the last of my CoolLabs Liquid Ultra on my Phanteks just now. I'm still running the stress test but it looks like temps dropped 10c! I'll post results when finished.












Sooo.. with the "tinting" technique, plus this TIM and dont know what else.. where is going to end?!?! if its true (not saying it isnt







) you are approaching custom loop temps (almost or real close not counting crazy loops)

really waiting for the results


----------



## tw33k

No. I didn't tint the IHS or the Phanteks. I cleaned the old TIM off and painted the top of the IHS with Liquid Ultra. Check out the results:

AMD 8150 @ 4.5GHz 1.35v

*Antec Formula 7*


*Liquid Ultra*


A delta temp of only 9.8c! Amazing stuff this Liquid Ultra. I've got more coming so I can do my Intel chip with a H100 next


----------



## .theMetal

looks like I will have to pick some of that stuff up, thanks for the data tw33k! also curious to see how it helps your Ivy out.


----------



## tw33k

I was going to de-lid my 3770K but I'm going to try just painting the top of the IHS first. If I get results similar to this I won't bother de-lidding (I've already killed one chip)


----------



## skyline65

Im about to build a system using Asus sabertooth, Intel 3930 processor, and was thinking of a Corsair C70 case with the Phanteks PH-TC14PE. I wondering whether it will fit as the only C70 shots I have seen dont have the side panels on?


----------



## BarryBGB

@tw33k - A delta temp of only 9.8c! Amazing stuff this Liquid Ultra. I've got more coming so I can do my Intel chip with a H100 next

Those are amazing numbers. I can't wait until my Liquid Ultra arrives and I can try it on my system.
If this stuff is as good as your numbers show, I can't understand why I have never heard of it before. Is this something new on the market? BTW, I just rep you tw33k.

I have a bunch of friends that, whenever they see me, ask me "why do you tinker with your equipment?", or "what did you buy today?", or "what's wrong with a stock computer?". My favorite answer is "Because I can" Really though, it is because I enjoy it and it is fun. Also, because I can afford it now and I always learn new things.
After all, why else would I be on Overclock.net in the first place.

Why do you guys do it??


----------



## BarryBGB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> I was going to de-lid my 3770K but I'm going to try just painting the top of the IHS first. If I get results similar to this I won't bother de-lidding (I've already killed one chip)


Do you mean that you use a dremel tool and remove the top of the chip? Pretty gutsy move seeing how much these chips cost.

What blade do you use for this and what is the point? How would the cooler fit on top of the chip? How much in reduced temps do you gain?
I have an old AMD chip I might try in removing the lid just to see how hard it is.
BTW, what is the IHS? does that stand for 'internal heat sink'?

Do you have some pics of the chips you have done? Sorry for all the questions.


----------



## HAVO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BarryBGB*
> 
> Do you mean that you use a dremel tool and remove the top of the chip? Pretty gutsy move seeing how much these chips cost.
> What blade do you use for this and what is the point? How would the cooler fit on top of the chip? How much in reduced temps do you gain?
> I have an old AMD chip I might try in removing the lid just to see how hard it is.
> BTW, what is the IHS? does that stand for 'internal heat sink'?
> Do you have some pics of the chips you have done? Sorry for all the questions.


for what i have seen, you can gain around0 15 degrees drop in temps, BUT you really need to be carefull on the process.. and patience

I can imagine a delided IB, with liquid ultra, plus a tinted phanteks.. and the cpu top painted too; i wonder the temps you could get with that thing









@TW33K

crazy results, 9 degrees delta.. that is just nuts good work


----------



## gregoire

I ordered one liquid ultra for my i3770k and my soon (?) to arrive ordered PH-TC14PE...

Should one remove the CPU from the motherboard in order to apply the liquid ultra or one could do that in place ?

Thank you very much !!!


----------



## tw33k

I wouldn't risk applying it with the chip in the board because it is highly electrically conductive and if you accidentally got some on the board you could do some real damage. I suggest you remove the chip, paint the IHS and then install the chip making sure you do not touch the top of the IHS


----------



## gregoire

Thank you very much for your answer


----------



## Vlodaf

Anyone here tried running it passively or with only one fan? How well does it cool that way?


----------



## BarryBGB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> No. I didn't tint the IHS or the Phanteks. I cleaned the old TIM off and painted the top of the IHS with Liquid Ultra. Check out the results:
> AMD 8150 @ 4.5GHz 1.35v
> *Antec Formula 7*
> 
> *Liquid Ultra*
> 
> A delta temp of only 9.8c! Amazing stuff this Liquid Ultra. I've got more coming so I can do my Intel chip with a H100 next


TW33K, how do you get the ambient and delta temps to show on the Statistics screen?
I jus downloaded the program and am running it now before I take the system apart and add the Liquid Ultra. I want to do a comparison.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BarryBGB*
> 
> TW33K, how do you get the ambient and delta temps to show on the Statistics screen?
> I jus downloaded the program and am running it now before I take the system apart and add the Liquid Ultra. I want to do a comparison.


You can't. I type them in


----------



## BarryBGB

About ready to install the Liquid Ultra but need to know what the Phantek Thermal area is made of.

Not Aluminum is it? Since other people are using it on the Phantek, I would assume not.


----------



## Lobsterman

Nickel-plated copper


----------



## Derek1387

Anyoneknow if will fit in an Arc Mini? Wanting to replace my xigmatek

And any lroblems with the Asus maximum gene board?


----------



## lagittaja

Does the PH-TC14PE now ship with the PWM adaptor or do I have to request it separately?
Really difficult to decide what cooler I should get..
Torn between
SA SB-E Extreme for 69.90€ (140mm PWM fans out of the box, crappy fan clips)
D14 for 71.40€ (whiny 120mm fan and no PWM on either fan, great mount)
TC14PE for 69,85€ (have a coupon code to one store







)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derek1387*
> 
> Anyoneknow if will fit in an Arc Mini? Wanting to replace my xigmatek
> And any lroblems with the Asus maximum gene board?


Case CPU cooler clearance is 165mm, same as R2 and R3. I have on in R2 with 3.8mm clearance to insulated side cover.

Straight edge on case mounting surface to top of cooler = *6mm* clearance.
Motherboard to sidecover mounting surface = *175.5mm*.
Top of i7 980 mounted in socket is *7.5mm* above face of Gigabyte X58A-UD5 motherboard

Actual cooler measurements:
heigth = 163mm heatsink face to top of cooler
Width = 140mm
Depth = 135mm
bottom fin = 47mm from heatsink face.
bottom fin tabs = 2mm; tabs to heatsink face 45mm
Heatpipes 106mm wide x 91mm deep

I have checked and re-checked. Top of cooler to motherboard varies so end up with a stack up 1mm maximum. error when adding cooler height + clearance + CPU above mobo.

Hope that all helps.


----------



## Derek1387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Case CPU cooler clearance is 165mm, same as R2 and R3. I have on in R2 with 3.8mm clearance to insulated side cover.
> Straight edge on case mounting surface to top of cooler = *6mm* clearance.
> Motherboard to sidecover mounting surface = *175.5mm*.
> Top of i7 980 mounted in socket is *7.5mm* above face of Gigabyte X58A-UD5 motherboard
> Actual cooler measurements:
> heigth = 163mm heatsink face to top of cooler
> Width = 140mm
> Depth = 135mm
> bottom fin = 47mm from heatsink face.
> bottom fin tabs = 2mm; tabs to heatsink face 45mm
> Heatpipes 106mm wide x 91mm deep
> I have checked and re-checked. Top of cooler to motherboard varies so end up with a stack up 1mm maximum. error when adding cooler height + clearance + CPU above mobo.
> Hope that all helps.


So im goign to take that as a yes....

Lol


----------



## doyll

Yes, it will probably fit. But a few days ago on another forum I and a couple of others suggested a Thermalright True Spirit 140 with a 171mm spec and it did not fit in an R2. Was 3mm too tall.







The heatpipes are actually 171mm... and CPU to side cover is 168mm.









So now I give all the measurements.


----------



## gregoire

I just received my PH-TC14PE 

My motherboard (ASRock's Fatal1ty Z77 Professional) has a 3pins and a 4pins for the CPU cooler : is there a reason to use the PWM adapter which came in the package or I have better to connect the fans directly to the non PWM fan header of my motherboard ?


----------



## doyll

Using the PWM adapter and Y splitter is easiest way to have CPU fans automatically controlled by CPU heat. You can use whatever your motherboard presets are and/or use F-Stream All-in-1 software to view and adjust fan speeds to your liking.


----------



## BarryBGB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Does the PH-TC14PE now ship with the PWM adaptor or do I have to request it separately?
> Really difficult to decide what cooler I should get..
> Torn between
> SA SB-E Extreme for 69.90€ (140mm PWM fans out of the box, crappy fan clips)
> D14 for 71.40€ (whiny 120mm fan and no PWM on either fan, great mount)
> TC14PE for 69,85€ (have a coupon code to one store
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


They are now shipping with the PWM adapter but did not at first. If anyone did not get one, Phantek will ship you one.
I actually have 2 of them and use the second one for the 3rd fan I purchased.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Does the PH-TC14PE now ship with the PWM adaptor or do I have to request it separately?
> Really difficult to decide what cooler I should get..
> Torn between
> SA SB-E Extreme for 69.90€ (140mm PWM fans out of the box, crappy fan clips)
> D14 for 71.40€ (whiny 120mm fan and no PWM on either fan, great mount)
> TC14PE for 69,85€ (have a coupon code to one store
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Yes, you will probably get the PWM adaper in the kit but it depends on where you get it as to how long it has set on seller's shelf. There are still a few out there without the adapter included.

If you get one without PWM, Phanteks will gladly give you one. I have had fantastic customer support requesting information and needed bits. They have sent me 4 PWM adaptors, some needed mounting pads, a replacement cooler and pickup of my defective one totally free, a second tube of TIM with replacement cooler, etc. Great service!


----------



## gregoire

Thank for the answer which don't completely respond to my question as my motherboard's UEFI is able to automaticaly regulate the RPM of the fans through the PWM output AND from the "classic" header.
So in my case I don't understand what advantage PWM could get (it even could use more power than the other header, no ?).
Anyway thank for the answer, I admit I am more afraid to "put" my liquid ultra than the connection of the fans to the motherboard


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregoire*
> 
> Thank for the answer which don't completely respond to my question as my motherboard's UEFI is able to automaticaly regulate the RPM of the fans through the PWM output AND from the "classic" header.
> So in my case I don't understand what advantage PWM could get (it even could use more power than the other header, no ?).
> Anyway thank for the answer, I admit I am more afraid to "put" my liquid ultra than the connection of the fans to the motherboard










I get enough grief from my wife. And ass you seem offended by my what I did tell you I'll not bother to explain further. Wouldn't want to offend any more and receive more grief.


----------



## gregoire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I get enough grief from my wife. And ass you seem offended by my what I did tell you I'll not bother to explain further. Wouldn't want to offend any more and receive more grief.


Sorry I didn't see any offense in what you wrote, my question should have been clearer : as in final the fan receive a 3 pins connectors which isn't PWM, the "adapter" will only draw power for nothing as the temperature control is done the same by a simple voltage control from my motherboard.
BUT I am not certain if that's really how that works.


----------



## doyll

PWM is Pulse-width modulation. Fans run on modulated 12v pulses. Less pulses run fans slower. More run fans faster.

The "PWM Adaptor" Phanteks supplies allows you to you to use normal 3pin fans and control them with the motherboard's CPU_fan 4pin PWM socket using PWM signal to adapter. Maybe it should be called a PWM converter/adapter. Adapter's 4pin PWM plug goes into the motherboard 4pin CPU_fan socket. The supplied "Y" splitter plugs into adapter's 3 pin fan socket and 3pin fans plug into the "Y" splitter. With this setup the fans are controlled by PWM from motherboard.. and you can set the idle temp to fan speed and load temp to fan speed the way you want.

If you want the motherboard to only supply the PWM signal and get power for fans from a PSU molex connector you can use a PWM splitter from Akasa or Gelid. Plug PWM splitter into motherboard, the PWM adapter (with Y splitter and fans) into CPU fan plug on PWM splitter, molex power plug to PSU. If you want other PWM fans to run with same signal as Phanteks fan you can plug them into other PWM splitter sockets. But I won't guaranty they will run at same rpm.

On my own system all fans are PWM and all are controlled by motherboard CPU_fan socket using Gelid PWM fan splitters. These splitters use a 4 pin molex to supply power and motherboard PWM socket to supply PWM signal.


----------



## gregoire

We don't understand each other, probably because my english is very poor.

I know what PWM and the like works...
With my H100 and it's two Noctua NF-F12 I tried to put them in the PWM CPU_fan PWM which worked perfectly with UEFI control, and then I also tried to put them into the CPU_fan which is a non PWM fan, also with automatic UEFI control of the CPU temperature and I observed more or less the same RPM of the fans in each case.

Off course the Noctua's fan are "directly" PWM's fan where the Phanteks fan aren't, so in my case it might just be better to simply connect them to the non PWM CPU_fan of my motherboard.

I can't find any information if there is a difference in power consumption at same rpm from those fan if run through PWM (with adapter) or directly.

Anyway thank for your answer


----------



## doyll

I think the power consumption will be the same or very close to same.


----------



## gregoire

YES









My computer is finally near silent !!!

I changed my H100 (with two Noctua NF-F12) with the Phanteks and it make a real difference in noise level.


----------



## doyll

You are now using Phanteks fans?


----------



## Lobsterman

Add me please!
Please forgive quality, picture taken on a vintage Nokia 1680 Classic


----------



## gregoire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You are now using Phanteks fans?


Yes


----------



## IceBloodedZero

I just purchased the PH-TC14PE and I'm extremely stoked about installing it. My question is about the RAM clearance. Google hasn't been turning up the answer I'm looking for.

Will the G.Skill Sniper RAM fit under the 140mm fan that covers the RAM slots?

Been thinking about picking up some Sniper RAM and I wasn't sure if it would fit.

Thanks guys.


----------



## HCore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IceBloodedZero*
> 
> I just purchased the PH-TC14PE and I'm extremely stoked about installing it. My question is about the RAM clearance. Google hasn't been turning up the answer I'm looking for.
> Will the G.Skill Sniper RAM fit under the 140mm fan that covers the RAM slots?
> Been thinking about picking up some Sniper RAM and I wasn't sure if it would fit.
> Thanks guys.


Yeah you should have no problem. I've got the Ripjawz X which are higher and they fit fine. They do raise the fan up slightly but the Phanteks is made to do that.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IceBloodedZero*
> 
> I just purchased the PH-TC14PE and I'm extremely stoked about installing it. My question is about the RAM clearance. Google hasn't been turning up the answer I'm looking for.
> Will the G.Skill Sniper RAM fit under the 140mm fan that covers the RAM slots?
> Been thinking about picking up some Sniper RAM and I wasn't sure if it would fit.
> Thanks guys.


Your RAM is 33mm tall so add that to fan height and you need 173mm of case clearance.


----------



## IceBloodedZero

Appreciate the replies! Definitely grabbing the Sniper RAM since it can fit!









I just measured out my case and there will be room for the cooler to fit without any issues!


----------



## doyll

Good news!

Post some pics when you get it!


----------



## Liranan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregoire*
> 
> YES
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My computer is finally near silent !!!
> I changed my H100 (with two Noctua NF-F12) with the Phanteks and it make a real difference in noise level.


What about temperatures?


----------



## gregoire

I don't overclock my i3770k (at the moment) and after an "emerge world" of my system (in gentoo's linux it basically compil all new packages which use the CPU most of the time at almost 100% for about 30 minutes) the highest core never get to 35° C which mean my delta is at max +12° C.
It's much better than with my H100 (about +20° C) but I used liquid ultra as TIM for the Phanteks and the temperature don't cool down as fast with the Phanteks as it was with the H100 (I don't mind as it's very good so).


----------



## savagepagan

Anyone using BitFenix Spectre 140mm PWM fans? I hear they have ok static
pressure.


----------



## savagepagan

Here is a good 140mm/120mm fan review. The Cooljags did the best in static pressure and air flow. It turns out this fans specs are underrated by Evercool.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/331629-28-cooling-roundup-2012


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> These Blue mods look nice, I am selling my 212 Evo and going for a Blue fan mod with PH-TC14PE_BL+3X Bitfenix Spectre Pro 230mm soon.


Are you putting Bitfenix Spectre Pro 230mm in you ph-tc14pe?


----------



## MegaBouncyBall

Will this cooler fit in a coolermaster storm scout?
Storm scout 1 that is.


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mezmenir*
> 
> Just got my BitFenix 140s (3 more) today, and a pair of TY-140
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to do a little dremeling on these BitFenix fans and slap them on the TC14. If that doesn't work, that's what the TY-140 are for!


Which BitFenix 140s are you using?


----------



## MegaBouncyBall

Just to clarify some things:

I have 140/141mm of space inbitween my ram and the inside of the side panel of my case, and I have about 167mm inbitween the cpu and the side panel.

So, can anyone tell me if it will fit?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaBouncyBall*
> 
> Just to clarify some things:
> I have 140/141mm of space inbitween my ram and the inside of the side panel of my case, and I have about 167mm inbitween the cpu and the side panel.
> So, can anyone tell me if it will fit?


It will fit. Center fan setting on crossbar screw sets 165mm and that is 3mm above top of cooler. Cooler measures 161-162mm from heatsink face to top of cooler. I measured mine 57 zillion times and kept getting 2mm variance. fins on pipes to heatsink just aren't perfectly square and true.


----------



## doyll

The tightest point is the 140mm fan on top of ram. Phanteks fans measure 139.78-140.21mm in a 22c room.







These thing are definitely not made to aerospace tolerances.


----------



## MegaBouncyBall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> It will fit. Center fan setting on crossbar screw sets 165mm and that is 3mm above top of cooler. Cooler measures 161-162mm from heatsink face to top of cooler. I measured mine 57 zillion times and kept getting 2mm variance. fins on pipes to heatsink just aren't perfectly square and true.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The tightest point is the 140mm fan on top of ram. Phanteks fans measure 139.78-140.21mm in a 22c room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These thing are definitely not made to aerospace tolerances.


Thanks for the info, the fans can be moved up/down right? so I assume I can lower the cooler all the down so they almost touch my RAM sticks.
I have just read trough the operator's manual and it said that 165mm is the "maximum allowed" height (assuming they have kept a few mm's of margin)
So at least the heatsink would fit, this is the part I was most worried about since I don't really want to mill in a brand new €90 CPU cooler's main component







.

If I understand this correctly you say that the center fan sticks out 165mm in it's lowest position? If so then I shouldn't have to modify or replace at least 1 of the fans either.

I have a little doubt on whether or not the 2nd fan will fit though, I just remeasured and I have 144mm clearance, but the side panel of the storm scout 1 has an indent on it facing outside, giving me a little bit of extra space, but not on the entire surface of the side panel.
If I take off the side panel and measure it again, I measure approx 139-140mm (I have to gamble a bit on this one because there are no solid parts I can measure to whilst keeping my ruler horizontal).

Thanks again, I appreciate it.


----------



## doyll

The measurement you posted above are bigger than the measurement I took from my case so you should be fine.... unless computer gremlin have figured out a way to make cooler gremlins enlarge their coolers.









You can remove the crossbar screw if needed to go lower.

I removed mine.. but don't remove it until you have mounted cooler.. it holds the crossbar in place while you start the spring loaded mounting screws in the ends of it into base mount. I looked in my box of screws and found a nice little round headed screw that I put used in place of big stock knob screw. It's a normal thread for some component... HDD side mount screw or optical drive mount screw or HDD bottom mount screw. I have several more just like that came from surplus build screws.


----------



## MegaBouncyBall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The measurement you posted above are bigger than the measurement I took from my case so you should be fine.... unless computer gremlin have figured out a way to make cooler gremlins enlarge their coolers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can remove the crossbar screw if needed to go lower.
> I removed mine.. but don't remove it until you have mounted cooler.. it holds the crossbar in place while you start the spring loaded mounting screws in the ends of it into base mount. I looked in my box of screws and found a nice little round headed screw that I put used in place of big stock knob screw. It's a normal thread for some component... HDD side mount screw or optical drive mount screw or HDD bottom mount screw. I have several more just like that came from surplus build screws.


I find it hard to believe that I can fit something that is 140mm in a spot that is only 139mm big, if you know what I mean







.

You measured the cooler being 165mm tall with the fan in place, according to the user manual that's the maximum my case will allow, my measurements said 167 or more so I'm not too worried about removing it.


----------



## doyll

Well without having your case in front of me I can not tell you for an absolute fact that it will fit. I think it will based on what you've told me and what I've seen in other installs.

I understand you are worried if it will fit or not. I probably would be too if I was in your shoes.

But they are your shoes and you have to make the decision.

Edit: don't worry about the fan fitting. If cooler fits fans will fit. Worst case is you put second fan on back of cooler instead of front.


----------



## lb_felipe

Does this cooler fit in an Antec SOLO II with standard DIMMs?

Phanteks states PH-TC14PE is 171 mm height (I guess with standard DIMM that's its fan in standard place). Antec states its case has 160 mm of clearance for CPU cooler. However Anand states it has 180 mm. If Anand is right, it does, but, case of Anand is wrong, can I use low profile DIMM to make room for cooler's fan in offset height?


----------



## doyll

Hopefully someone with you case can answer.

Yes, fans can be lowered so they are flush with top of cooler. Requires removing the screw with 13mm of knob on it in center of crossbar mount after cooler is installed or replacing it with a normal headed screw (which is what I did). All this center screw does is hold crossbar on cooler while it is being installed. Once installed crossbar is held down by the spring screws attaching to mounting base.

I have TC14PE in Fractal Design Define R2; with fan is over Crucial Ballistix Sport RAM and no problems Case spec is 165mm CPU clearance.


----------



## savagepagan

Does anyone here have their PH-TC14PE oriented in the north/south position or with the unit blowing air out of the top of the case?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> Does anyone here have their PH-TC14PE oriented in the north/south position or with the unit blowing air out of the top of the case?


I had mine vented out the top until just a few weeks ago.


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I had mine vented out the top until just a few weeks ago.


Any diff. in your temps?


----------



## doyll

I found no difference. There is no reason I can think of why there would be a difference other than airflow.

I vented out top because my back vent was a 120mm fan and of course cooler is 140mm fans. Top of R2 can have 2x 140mm vents if both sound dampening panels are removed. I used an exhaust duct from cooler to top vent.

Now I have removed the back vent grill, bottom vent grilles, modified front 120mm vents into 140mm fans and use Silverstone magnetic mounting filters over TY-140 600-1300rpm intake fans. Cooler has 2x TY-143 600-2500rpm fans. All fans are PWM controlled by mobo CPU fan socket using Gelid PWM fan splitter. Cooler fans idle at 660rpm while intake fans idle at 700rpm. Both run 800rpm. Cooler fans peak at 11000rpm with case fans running 900rpm. I have no real reason to have different cpu fans from case fans. Just like the red/orange of TY-143s and if I do a serious overclock may be able to use rpm above 1300.


----------



## Airrick10

i'm tempted to get this cooler for my new i5 3570K! I currently have an Antec khuler 620 :/


----------



## doyll

TC14PE is about 2-5c better than Kuhler 620 depending on what review you look at.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> TC14PE is about 2-5c better than Kuhler 620 depending on what review you look at.


That's what I hear...I'm just waiting for Friday to see if I get a Christmas bonus and I'll order the black one. Newegg has it for $89.99 and I also want to get some TIM. I read some positive reviews on the pk-1 thermal paste although someone said that pk-3 is better.


----------



## doyll

Let us know how it goes. Very interested in finding out how close to reality our guesses are.


----------



## Airrick10

Ok sure will! One question though...I currently have 2 140mm top exhaust fans on a fractal arc midi. What would be the best orientation of these fans? Should they be as exhaust or should I have them as intake with this cooler?

*Case Fan Set Up:
*
2x140mm front intake fans
2x120mm+Radiator(620 kuller) rear INTAKE
2x140mm top exhaust fans


----------



## doyll

I have never understood pulling air into a case through a radiator when we spend so much time trying to keep case and components in the case cool.










I understand why CLC sellers testing using radiator as an intake.. gives them cooler cpu scores. But they don't mention the temp inside of case was 5-10+c higher than ambient.

But I digress

I would move one of your top fans to bottom intake and other to side intake if it is over our GPU and run 620 exhausting out of case. Run the intakes at low or medium speed. Bottom & front intakes will naturally flow air up & back to leave case naturally. Side intake brings nice cool air to GPU.

My R2 only has 2 front and 1 bottom intakes.. no exhaust fans.. with only the top back vent sound panel removed. 4 unused PCI slots are open. Top front & side vents have sound panels in place. Air flowing out of case is only 1-3c warmer than ambient... and my GPU is (was) Gigabyte HD5770 Silent Cell.. passive cooler dumping all it's heat inside of case.

This configuration will make air in case slightly higher pressure than room so with filters on intake fans you case will be almost dust free.

Just my way. Not the only way.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have never understood pulling air into a case through a radiator when we spend so much time trying to keep case and components in the case cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I understand why CLC sellers testing using radiator as an intake.. gives them cooler cpu scores. But they don't mention the temp inside of case was 5-10+c higher than ambient.
> But I digress
> I would move one of your top fans to bottom intake and other to side intake if it is over our GPU and run 620 exhausting out of case. Run the intakes at low or medium speed. Bottom & front intakes will naturally flow air up & back to leave case naturally. Side intake brings nice cool air to GPU.
> My R2 only has 2 front and 1 bottom intakes.. no exhaust fans.. with only the top back vent sound panel removed. 4 unused PCI slots are open. Top front & side vents have sound panels in place. Air flowing out of case is only 1-3c warmer than ambient... and my GPU is (was) Gigabyte HD5770 Silent Cell.. passive cooler dumping all it's heat inside of case.
> This configuration will make air in case slightly higher pressure than room so with filters on intake fans you case will be almost dust free.
> Just my way. Not the only way.


Thanks for your Input!









Actually .... I was asking if I was to get the Phanteks heatsink installed, which would be the best option for my 2 140mm top fans...exhaust or intake or remove them all togetther....Thanks!


----------



## Airrick10

Well...I pulled the trigger on the black PH-TC14PE!


----------



## doyll

Black is beautiful!









As for your top fans.
I run 2x 140 front and 1 bottom intake and no exhaust fans. I cut out the grille in the back vent and make a simple duct between cooler and back. Sides and top made out of an old file folder and rattle-can black.







The fans set low enough on my RAM to move air under cooler and cool mobo heatsinks. I/O plate is out for better air escape too. No top or back fans. In fact I tried both with and without top vents open and closed (Define R2 has sound panels for top) with no difference in temps so the are installed now.
 

It's all out of case at the moment. If you want more pics info let me know.


----------



## AMD_Freak

looks good to me doyll


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Well...I pulled the trigger on the black PH-TC14PE!


When you get it installed post a pic and Ill add you to the members list


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Black is beautiful!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for your top fans.
> I run 2x 140 front and 1 bottom intake and no exhaust fans. I cut out the grille in the back vent and make a simple duct between cooler and back. Sides and top made out of an old file folder and rattle-can black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fans set low enough on my RAM to move air under cooler and cool mobo heatsinks. I/O plate is out for better air escape too. No top or back fans. In fact I tried both with and without top vents open and closed (Define R2 has sound panels for top) with no difference in temps so the are installed now.
> 
> It's all out of case at the moment. If you want more pics info let me know.


Thanks Doyll! I like your duct idea...I'll see if I can come up with something similar. I'm guessing I should remove my 2x 140mm top exhaust fans. I also want to get 3 corsair AF140 fans...two as intake on the front of my case and maybe one at the bottom as intake as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> When you get it installed post a pic and Ill add you to the members list


Thanks AMD_Freak! I'll do so once I install it!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> looks good to me doyll


Thanks.

Just don't look at the right side.


----------



## .theMetal

hey doyll so you switched the heatsink to poor out the back? did you see temp differences from when it was out of the top?

and also AMD here is some pictures of mine, I don't see my name on the members list


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> hey doyll so you switched the heatsink to poor out the back? did you see temp differences from when it was out of the top?


None I can read in 1 degree increments.







But exhaust was ducted out top and now out back..

My biggest problem heat. Not too much heat. I can't make it get hot!







As I type this ambient into cooler is 21c and exhaust is 25c. CPU is reading 15-26-22-23-26-22c in OHM and 15-25-22-22-26-22c in HWM with fans @ 660rpm







CPU load is 0-3% so nothing happening, but even under 80-100% load temps are 40-46-43-42-48-43c max. @ 950rpm. It's setting on the bench at the moment but in case is about same with fans a little faster @ 700rpm idle and 1050rpm load. Doesn't take much dust in filters to raise idle temps 1-2c. Basically the fans at idle are spinning so slow they have almost no static pressure so even the slightest resistance affects airflow.

I'm good at cooling and airflow stuff but know nothing about overclocking so haven't even tried it on this 980... and it does same jobs my 920 @ 4.0GHz did in 15 minutes in 10 minutes now so no need to overclock.

Love your build! That really looks good!

How much clearance do you have between bottom of case and desktop? What are you temps and fan speeds please?


----------



## andre02

Which one would you guys choose between the white one and the red one ?


----------



## doyll

You gotta choose your own color.








I know life can be hard but sometimes you just gotta make your own choices.









I'm using red TC14PE with Thermalright TY-143 red fan housing / orange fan 2500rpm PWM









White is a normal silver aluminum cooler. Only the fans are white.
All others are colored coolers.

White = PH-TC14PE is silver cooler with white fan housing/white fan
Red = PH-TC14PE_RD is red cooler with white fan housing /red fan
Black = PH-TC14PE_BK is black cooler with white fan housing/black fan
Orange = PH-TC14PE_OR is orange cooler with white fan housing/orange fan
Blue = PH-TC14PE_BL is blue cooler with white fan housing/blue fan


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> None I can read in 1 degree increments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But exhaust was ducted out top and now out back..
> My biggest problem heat. Not too much heat. I can't make it get hot!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I type this ambient into cooler is 21c and exhaust is 25c. CPU is reading 15-26-22-23-26-22c in OHM and 15-25-22-22-26-22c in HWM with fans @ 660rpm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU load is 0-3% so nothing happening, but even under 80-100% load temps are 40-46-43-42-48-43c max. @ 950rpm. It's setting on the bench at the moment but in case is about same with fans a little faster @ 700rpm idle and 1050rpm load. Doesn't take much dust in filters to raise idle temps 1-2c. Basically the fans at idle are spinning so slow they have almost no static pressure so even the slightest resistance affects airflow.
> I'm good at cooling and airflow stuff but know nothing about overclocking so haven't even tried it on this 980... and it does same jobs my 920 @ 4.0GHz did in 15 minutes in 10 minutes now so no need to overclock.
> Love your build! That really looks good!
> How much clearance do you have between bottom of case and desktop? What are you temps and fan speeds please?


Thanks! yea its actually in a spot where I really like it, but I still am considering stuffing into a prodigy case (of course bringing the phanteks along) but it will be hard to ditch the raven. the cable management is so good its almost cheating.

I see what you mean, not having dust is great. I don't know the exact measurement from case to desk, but it has a good 25-35 mm I would guess. I will get you the exact measurement when I am at home. There are also two big magnetic dust filters under there, and they work really well. I have the two 180 case fans on their low setting (as apposed to high, there are only two) and they are pretty much inaudible. Then the phanteks fans are running at %100. They actually don't make a lot of noise outside of the case so I just keep them cranking. there is also a 120 right above the phanteks exhausting, its highest speed makes no noise.

My 3570k is running at 4.4 (nice and solid, I had about a three day folding spree with no crashes) and it idles in the 30's, games in the 50's, and prime maxes it out usually in the mid 60's. Edit: forgot to say these are winter temps







the house stays in the low 20s c as apposed to close to 30s in the summer.

I definitely don't know a whole lot about air cooling. I'm just using the stock setup of the raven, and its keeping my stuff very cool. the cards are both overclocked 560's they usually produce some heat, but they are running as cool as they ever have in this case. My only problem is probably they dump a lot of heat into the case and the only fan exhausting is that 120 above the phanteks. I could mount a 120 on the back of the case pulling air out, but it would sit so close to the bottom card, I think it would fight it for air.


----------



## doyll

I know your neck of the woods! Lived in that area for many years and loved it back then. Too many people now. But still beautiful!

Sounds like a well thought out system.









I use a basic rule of thumb of the fan surface area need equal cylindrical area of fan circumference X distance away from flat surface.
140mm fan area = 154
cylinder intake area =140 x 3.14 x 30 (clearance) = 154

Two fans side by side in bottom is different
fan area = 308
But area between fans isn't intake now so intake area is an oval; 2 straight sided 140 each and half a circle on each end
(140 x 3.14 + 280) x 50 (clearance = 360

You can deduct the area in middle of fan where motor is but we are not considering the friction of turning air 90 degrees either so it kinda balances out.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I know your neck of the woods! Lived in that area for many years and loved it back then. Too many people now. But still beautiful!
> Sounds like a well thought out system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a basic rule of thumb of the fan surface area need equal cylindrical area of fan circumference X distance away from flat surface.
> 140mm fan area = 154
> cylinder intake area =140 x 3.14 x 30 (clearance) = 154
> Two fans side by side in bottom is different
> fan area = 308
> But area between fans isn't intake now so intake area is an oval; 2 straight sided 140 each and half a circle on each end
> (140 x 3.14 + 280) x 50 (clearance = 360
> You can deduct the area in middle of fan where motor is but we are not considering the friction of turning air 90 degrees either so it kinda balances out.


well the fans on the bottom are both 180mm. so your saying it needs even more space between case and desk?

O and thanks for the compliments and yea I like it here so far I came from small town so this last year of living here has been an experience


----------



## doyll

A lot depends on how fast you run them but yeah. A 180mm fan need 45mm and 2 side by side need 55mm. That will keep them from drawing too much of a vacuum. If you can hear them more space will probably quiet them down too. Easy to experiment. Steal 4 of the neighbor's little boy's wooden blocks. If everything is cool and quiet don't worry.


----------



## .theMetal

Yup so turns out I have about 2 inches or around 50mm. its very open under the case as well - being held up by four posts on each corner.

also, its very cool and quiet so I think I am set







I appreciate your info though and, as always, will be asking you about any air cooling advice in the future.

and I wouldn't actually have to borrow any blocks from the neighbors next door, I have my own little dude. we are playing around at bestbuy here his name is Patrick and he is 1.5:


----------



## doyll

Looks like you guys are having a good time. About same age as youngest grandson.


----------



## chann3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lucas4*
> 
> Both are very good coolers performance wise. It is clear to me which looks better tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> i like the way Phanteks make a big cooler (the D14 and SA are also big) but unlike the SA, it doesnt cause interference issues with the front fan and tall RAM. it was physically impossible to use my corsair dominator RAM with the SA because of the fan mounting method keeping the fan in a static position. With the Phanteks cooler, i was able to just place the fan clip higher up on the heatsink (same as the D14) for plenty of clearance.
> 
> price wise, the SA is cheaper, but i reckon that this Phanteks cooler will drop £5-10 within a few weeks of its launch


I was just about to ask if anyone knew what the ram clearance was like with the phanteks thanks:thumb:


----------



## doyll

Bottom fin is 50-52mm above heatsink face.


----------



## chann3l

So gskill ripjawsx should fit with it?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chann3l*
> 
> So gskill ripjawsx should fit with it?


How tall are they?


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chann3l*
> 
> So gskill ripjawsx should fit with it?


Look on their website..

http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=355

Height is 40mm.

You will be fine.


----------



## doyll

According to their forum the RipjawsX are 40mm so should fit no problem
http://gskill.us/forum/showthread.php?t=7327

Please keep in mind that is saying cooler will fit over RipjawsX. That does not say a 140mm fan can set on top of the 40mm RipjawsX and still put side cover on. For side cover to fit means your case needs 180mm motherboard clearance.

But you can put fan in back as a pull fan. Almost no difference in cooling doing that.. maybe .5c warmer at most.


----------



## chann3l

Thanks for the advice I have a corsair 500r so I should have plenty of room in that regard and looks like the ram will fit so im good to go :thumbs:


----------



## doyll

Let us know how it turns out.


----------



## gregoire

I have four modules of RipjawsX with my Phanteks and it works just great


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregoire*
> 
> I have four modules of RipjawsX with my Phanteks and it works just great


So cooler definitely clears.








Assume you have a fan on top of RipjawX. What case do you have?


----------



## gregoire

I have a Bitfenix's Shinobi XL. I just kept the 230mm intake for the HDD and I have a Lian Li's EX-H34SX (All Black) on which I changed the fan to a Noiseblocker also with intake.


----------



## Airrick10

My Phanteks PH-TC14PE (black version) comes in today!!! So excited to see what kind of results I get!







Although my Antec Kuhler 620 was keeping my temps around 77c max while doing Prime95 stress test for 2 hours on a i5 3570k with an OC of 4.6Ghz and 1.224v. The only thing is that the fans were at max and it was noisy! I'll be happy if I get the same temps with the fans running half speed or less.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregoire*
> 
> I have a Bitfenix's Shinobi XL. I just kept the 230mm intake for the HDD and I have a Lian Li's EX-H34SX (All Black) on which I changed the fan to a Noiseblocker also with intake.


Shinobi XL is 245mm wide and has 181mm CPU clearance so 140mm fan just clears setting on 40mm RAM.

Many cases don't have 181mm CPU clearance. My R2 has 165mm and it's a total of 207.4mm wide. Many cases are about that wide.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregoire*
> 
> I have a Bitfenix's Shinobi XL. I just kept the 230mm intake for the HDD and I have a Lian Li's EX-H34SX (All Black) on which I changed the fan to a Noiseblocker also with intake.


Reason I asked is because few cases are wide enough to put 140mm fans over 40mm RAM.

Your Shinobi XL is 245mm wide with 181mm CPU clearance. So you when you put a 140mm fan on top of 40mm RipjawX you have 1.5mm clearance.

chann3l has a Corsair 500R with a width of 205.7mm. I don't think he will be able to fit a 140mm fan on top of his RipjawX RAM.

I have low profile Crucial Ballistix (30mm tall) and it just fits in my Define R2 207.4mm wide case with spec of 165mm CPU clearance .


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> My Phanteks PH-TC14PE (black version) comes in today!!! So excited to see what kind of results I get!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although my Antec Kuhler 620 was keeping my temps around 77c max while doing Prime95 stress test for 2 hours on a i5 3570k with an OC of 4.6Ghz and 1.224v. The only thing is that the fans were at max and it was noisy! I'll be happy if I get the same temps with the fans running half speed or less.


Post some pictures when you get it installed


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> Post some pictures when you get it installed


I'll post some pics tomorrow...I had to redo my cables/cable management because I also installed some bitfenix alchemy white sleeved extensions. I then installed 3 corsair AF140mm fans (2 in th front & 1 rear). Then i installed the cooler. Temps are pretty good considering I don't have the fans on full blast like on my antec khuler 620.


----------



## Airrick10

Ok so here are some quick pics I took of my rig....add me to the club AMD_Freak


----------



## twerk

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Ok so here are some quick pics I took of my rig....add me to the club AMD_Freak





Very clean


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndyM95*
> 
> Very clean


Thanks AndyM95!


----------



## doyll

@ Airrick10
That looks really nice! Black Phanteks really was made for it.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @ Airrick10
> That looks really nice! Black Phanteks really was made for it.


Thanks Doyll! Yeah I'm glad I didn't have any problems fitting the phanteks cooler in my Fractal case and I'm glad they had it in Black!


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Ok so here are some quick pics I took of my rig....add me to the club AMD_Freak


Looks great


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> Looks great


Thanks Conspiracy!


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Ok so here are some quick pics I took of my rig....add me to the club AMD_Freak


Added, Looks nice


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> Added, Looks nice


Thanks AMD_Freak! I was wondering what kind of temps peeps were getting during BF3. I'm hitting around 66c but then again, I don't even have the fans at 75%. I ran 6 hours of prime95 on my i5 3570K with an OC of 4.6Ghz and 1.256v and temps were below 80c...i still had the fans below 75% during priem95. I'm happy with the temps considering that the fans are running at lower rpms while I had the same temps with my 620 kuhler and fans at 100% speed and too much noise! I just wished my temps were a bit lower while playing BF3.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> and also AMD here is some pictures of mine, I don't see my name on the members list


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> Added, Looks nice


May I be added sir?

Also, doyll, congrats on being a grandparent. I see how my parents/wife's parents are with my little guy, and he makes them crazy happy


----------



## AMD_Freak

Added .theMetal Sorry I missed you sometimes you have to kick me to get my attention


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Also, doyll, congrats on being a grandparent. I see how my parents/wife's parents are with my little guy, and he makes them crazy happy


Thanks!. Much easier to be a grandparent than a parent. We just show up and enjoy the kind and then go back home to piece and quiet. No dirty diapers, no middle of the night feedings, no crying constantly when sick or teething.. and when they come for a sleepover and get sick can just take them home and you you parents deal with it.









We have an old VW T3 camper van and a great T3 club. We get 3-8 campers / families together somewhere for a weekend camp. All age groups so plenty of kids and it's one big family with everyone watching after the kids so kid just wander around between campers. Wife is making finger puppets. Some are glow-in-the-dark thread. Little ones love them at bed time.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks!. Much easier to be a grandparent than a parent. We just show up and enjoy the kind and then go back home to piece and quiet. No dirty diapers, no middle of the night feedings, no crying constantly when sick or teething.. and when they come for a sleepover and get sick can just take them home and you you parents deal with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We have an old VW T3 camper van and a great T3 club. We get 3-8 campers / families together somewhere for a weekend camp. All age groups so plenty of kids and it's one big family with everyone watching after the kids so kid just wander around between campers. Wife is making finger puppets. Some are glow-in-the-dark thread. Little ones love them at bed time.


very good stuff. mine is my parents first grandkid, and they are the same way spoil him and send him home








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> Added .theMetal Sorry I missed you sometimes you have to kick me to get my attention


haha noted, kick for attention







thanks man.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> very good stuff. mine is my parents first grandkid, and they are the same way spoil him and send him home
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Simple solution; "You can do it at Grampa and Gramma's house. But in our house we do it this way." Life is not the same in different places. Pre-school rules are different then home rules are different than Sunday School rules etc. It's life. Knowing the rules are different at home than at Grampa and Gramma's house is life.









Remember to these little being we as adults are gods. We know all, control all, save all. Whatever we say must be true because we said it.


----------



## Rangerjr1

Does the phanteks cooler fit inside a RV03? Excuse me if this has been answered before but i really dont feel like looking through the whole thread.


----------



## doyll

Not sure but it just fits in Fractal Design Define R2 with a cpu clearance spec of 165mm... And I do mean JUST.. I have maybe 3mm to spare with fans flush with top of cooler.


----------



## fjordiales

Hi guys. I'm new here and new at building a rig. Was just wondering if anyone has the same cooler on a p8z77-i + 3570k. This is what i have.

http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/4763351

I'm just wondering how to OC it to 4.5ghz.


----------



## doyll

Now that's using all the available space!


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fjordiales*


This is pretty much the exact set up I'm planning on if xmas funds are solid







Looking to downsize a bit, make it little more portable.

Except for the card, I am aiming for the MSI PE.


----------



## fjordiales

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> This is pretty much the exact set up I'm planning on if xmas funds are solid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking to downsize a bit, make it little more portable.
> Except for the card, I am aiming for the MSI PE.


I have another windforce oc in my girl's pc, ima sli hers then get me an 8990.(hoping its a dual slot & depending on budget)

What temp are u getting and oc?


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fjordiales*
> 
> I have another windforce oc in my girl's pc, ima sli hers then get me an 8990.(hoping its a dual slot & depending on budget)
> What temp are u getting and oc?


Well I have an asrock extreme4 board right now and I'm clocked to 4.4. It stress tests in the low to mid 60s c and games in the 50's. usually idles in the 30's.

Its been running like this since the summer, and of course the stress tests in the summer push it up close to the 70's, but its nice and cool in the house now.

I have two overclocked 560's dumping heat into the case so I might see an improvement when I upgrade to a 670.

How about you?


----------



## fjordiales

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Well I have an asrock extreme4 board right now and I'm clocked to 4.4. It stress tests in the low to mid 60s c and games in the 50's. usually idles in the 30's.
> Its been running like this since the summer, and of course the stress tests in the summer push it up close to the 70's, but its nice and cool in the house now.
> I have two overclocked 560's dumping heat into the case so I might see an improvement when I upgrade to a 670.
> How about you?


I have 3570k, oc 4.2 and im getting 1.17v 73 max in stress test(intel burn test, 5 runs, maximum). Mobo p8z77-i. Been reading forums and i think my temps are too hot esp when im @ 4.4(85deg) & 4.5(90deg).

I got gigabyte 670 oc. From what i read in multiple forums ivy bridge can get stubborn with the voltage+LLC combo. Am i doing something wrong with my OC?


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fjordiales*
> 
> I have 3570k, oc 4.2 and im getting 1.17v 73 max in stress test(intel burn test, 5 runs, maximum). Mobo p8z77-i. Been reading forums and i think my temps are too hot esp when im @ 4.4(85deg) & 4.5(90deg).
> I got gigabyte 670 oc. From what i read in multiple forums ivy bridge can get stubborn with the voltage+LLC combo. Am i doing something wrong with my OC?


4.2GHz @ 1.17v hitting 73c is too hot. I would re-apply the thermal paste and re-seat the cooler if it were me


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by fjordiales View Post
> 
> I have 3570k, oc 4.2 and im getting 1.17v 73 max in stress test(intel burn test, 5 runs, maximum). Mobo p8z77-i. Been reading forums and i think my temps are too hot esp when im @ 4.4(85deg) & 4.5(90deg).
> I got gigabyte 670 oc. From what i read in multiple forums ivy bridge can get stubborn with the voltage+LLC combo. Am i doing something wrong with my OC?


How fast does it go to 73c? Reason I ask is if it's in 3-7 minutes your cooler/TIM are the problem. If it's 15, 20, 30 minutes your case is not venting the heated air from cooler out of case properly and this heated air is heating all the air in your case. Then this heated case air is going into your cooler 5, 10, 15c hotter than room temperature and cpu ends up 5, 10, 15c hotter too.


----------



## fjordiales

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> 4.2GHz @ 1.17v hitting 73c is too hot. I would re-apply the thermal paste and re-seat the cooler if it were me




Here's what i got. i just got back and ran intel burn test in max for 28x. settings are 4.2ghz, offset -0.030, llc regular. do i need to re-apply TIM and reseat cooler?


----------



## Mazel

Before I pull the trigger on the Phanteks, I've got a question. Has anyone managed to get a 38mm thick fan in between the fins? I'm looking at running 2 FHP-141s which happen to be 38mm thick. I know the gap is 33mm, but would it be possible to squeeze it in. Or should I simply shave off a few mm off the fan thickness to make it fit? Or are there any other fans with similar static pressure and airflow that'd fit?


----------



## doyll

Sorry to tell you but 38mm will not fit. No way. The distance between radiators is 33mm max.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fjordiales*
> 
> 
> Here's what i got. i just got back and ran intel burn test in max for 28x. settings are 4.2ghz, offset -0.030, llc regular. do i need to re-apply TIM and reseat cooler?


You said your load vcore was 1.17v not 1.224v. Temps are about right. Your chip would benefit from de-lidding and some Coollabs Liquid Ultra or Pro


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fjordiales*
> 
> I have 3570k, oc 4.2 and im getting 1.17v 73 max in stress test(intel burn test, 5 runs, maximum). Mobo p8z77-i. Been reading forums and i think my temps are too hot esp when im @ 4.4(85deg) & 4.5(90deg).
> I got gigabyte 670 oc. From what i read in multiple forums ivy bridge can get stubborn with the voltage+LLC combo. Am i doing something wrong with my OC?


you might try re-seating your heatsink. that seems a bit warm. if you re-seat - rub paste into each surface, then wipe the excess off and put a grain of uncooked rice sized piece and press the heatsink onto the proc and as it tightens it will do the rest.

but you are not doing any thing wrong. it took me months of tinkering to get my overclock right.

Also post up on your mother board's club thread and see what others have for their overclocks. its a good place to start and its what got me going


----------



## tw33k

He's running IBT with a vCore of 1.224v. His temps are normal for a 3570K


----------



## OneTreeHill

Hi guys,I bought liquid ultra and ty 143 for PH-TC14PE. After installation ,sharing the results


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneTreeHill*
> 
> Hi guys,I bought liquid ultra and ty 143 for PH-TC14PE. After installation ,sharing the results










Have them on my red TC14PE. Assume you know the spring clip pins won't work, but some small zip-ties make quick work of that problem for me.









Assume you are using TY-140's for case cooling?

I have 3x TY-140's cooling case too.


----------



## OneTreeHill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have them on my red TC14PE. Assume you know the spring clip pins won't work, but some small zip-ties make quick work of that problem for me.


Do you have an image associated with it.
Maybe I wear with this method

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Assume you are using TY-140's for case cooling?
> I have 3x TY-140's cooling case too.


Probably,but ı'm not sure.Other option :Gt15,Spectre Pro and Scythe Kaze Maru 2 SM1425SL12M)


----------



## doyll

Here are a couple of images of zip-tie fan clip pins

I used a 2-3mm shaft through the cable-tie/zip-tie when I was pulling it tight on fan to keep the hole big enough so it would be easy to put fan spring clip into it. Than I cut the zip-tie tail off with wire cutters.

If you use Gelid PWM fan splitter you can control all PWM fans with motherboard cpu fan socket and power them with PSU molex. I use 2 PWM splitters plugged together for PWM signal to control all my fans and of course the PSU molex to power them.


The TY-140 and TY-143 fan speeds on same PWM signal
TY-140. TY-143
. 650rpm 660rpm
. 692. . . 711
. 806. . . 792
. 900. . . 990
. 998 . . 1269
1100 . . 1650
1203 . . 2000
1300 . . 2491


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> He's running IBT with a vCore of 1.224v. His temps are normal for a 3570K


I must have completely totally missed the screen shot somehow showing the actual voltage. tweeks right, fjordiales your temps are about right for that voltage but you should still do some tinkering and see how low you can get it.


----------



## Zboy

does it look like this ram will fit under the phantek cooler? i know if i raise the fan it will, but i'd prefer to keep it aligned if possible

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104266


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zboy*
> 
> does it look like this ram will fit under the phantek cooler? i know if i raise the fan it will, but i'd prefer to keep it aligned if possible
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104266


How tall is that ram?

Phanteks is 40-45mm from heatsink face to fins. The 5mm is because there are tabs sticking down below fins and a couple mm difference depending on where / how you measure.

I have 50-53mm from motherboard to bottom of fins.


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zboy*
> 
> does it look like this ram will fit under the phantek cooler? i know if i raise the fan it will, but i'd prefer to keep it aligned if possible
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104266


I think it will fit as my GSKILL RipjawsX fits


----------



## Zboy

ah and the ripjaws x look slightly taller too. cool, thanks


----------



## AMD_Freak

We are now the [Official] Phanteks PH-TC14PE News, Discussion and Owners thread


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> We are now the [Official] Phanteks PH-TC14PE News, Discussion and Owners thread


Excellent!


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> We are now the [Official] Phanteks PH-TC14PE News, Discussion and Owners thread


Very nice!


----------



## tonus

Is the phanteks cooler higher than silver arrow.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonus*
> 
> Is the phanteks cooler higher than silver arrow.


Yes, but fans can be set lower. My R2 case spec is 160mm CPU clearance and it fits no problem. Ram plus fan is the potential problem. If our case only has 165mm CPU clearance a 140mm fan on top of 35mm RAM probably won't fit. (top of CPU is about 7mm above mobo) My Crucial Ballistix Sport and fan just fit.

TC14PE . . . = . . 140x134x160mm 140x159x171mm w/fans centered
Silver Arrow . = . 147x123x160mm 151x149x1XXmm w/Fans
SA SB-E . . .= . . 155x105x164mm 170x130x170mm w/fans


----------



## tonus

Now i use old Silver Arrow and it fits with clearance 2-3 mm to side panel.


----------



## doyll

Added old Silver Arrow to above.
Phanteks cooler will fit. It's the fans that might be a problem. I don't know what fans you have on your old Silver Arrow.

Edit: Just setup my old Cogage Arrow with TY-140 fan. 168mm from CPU fan to top of fan.


----------



## tonus

ty-140


----------



## tonus

2x ty-140 pull/pull.


----------



## doyll

Just edited my above posts.

with TY-140 I'm getting 165-168mm using old Cogage Arrow fan clips. Now much wiggle room up/down as the ends going into cooler are not long enough to move without jumping out.


----------



## JRuxGaming

How does the temperature difference between TC14PE and TC12DX differ on an Ivy Bridge i7? Would I still be able to do a steady overclock of 4.2-4.6GHz, and still stay within a safe range of temps? Also, with the TC14PE, would Corsair Vengeance fit safely under the cooler? Noctua D14, for example, says there is enough clearance for Vengeance RAM.


----------



## doyll

Phanteks PH-TC12DX to PH-TC14PE are similar coolers to Thermalright True Spirit 120 and Silver Arrow SB-E. Probably 5-8c difference
There are several reviews that have compared both Thermalright coolers.
http://www.hardwaremax.net/reviews/kuehler/420-test-thermalright-silver-arrow-sb-e.html?showall=0&start=6

And *IF* Vengeance will fit under NH-D14 than it should fit under TC14PE. Key word is "if"









Fitting under cooler does not mean fans will fit. 120mm fans probably. But 140mm fan needs 20mm more motherboard to sidecover clearance than 120mm fan does. RAM + fan +2mm = motherboard to sidecover.


----------



## tonus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Just edited my above posts.
> with TY-140 I'm getting 165-168mm using old Cogage Arrow fan clips. Now much wiggle room up/down as the ends going into cooler are not long enough to move without jumping out.


Before I buy Silver arrow, i owned Coage arrow he was lower by about 5 mm for the smaller caps. So hopefully Phanteks can fits in my case.
Thank you.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonus*
> 
> Before I buy Silver arrow, i owned Coage arrow he was lower by about 5 mm for the smaller caps. So hopefully Phanteks can fits in my case.
> Thank you.


Yes, just cooler is shorter because of caps. I have been told 3mm shorter but not been able to measure it myself. As far as I know that is only difference.
How much difference did you have changing from Arrow to Silver Arrow? Did you try the TY-140 fans on your Cogage Arrow?

I bought mine Cogage Arrow used with fan clips but no fans.

I think you will have no problem fitting the TC14PE. You might find the TY-140 fans are better than the Phanteks fans. I have them on my TC14PE.


----------



## tonus

I used Cogage Arrow with 2xAerocool Shark 140 mm fans.
The difference between Cogage Arrow & SA is 2-3degrees with my I7-860 at 4ghz., because SA have better mounting bracket with better pressure.
I ordered 2 x TY-143 for one with Fanteks to replace his original fans. I will make a comparison, who of these three sets of fans works better for me (Fanteks, TY-140 or TY-143) and others will sell along with SA. I hope my motherboard well managed by PWM two TY-143 in low load when watching movies, browsing and listening music can not pass 1300 rpm.


----------



## JRuxGaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Phanteks PH-TC12DX to PH-TC14PE are similar coolers to Thermalright True Spirit 120 and Silver Arrow SB-E. Probably 5-8c difference
> There are several reviews that have compared both Thermalright coolers.
> http://www.hardwaremax.net/reviews/kuehler/420-test-thermalright-silver-arrow-sb-e.html?showall=0&start=6
> And *IF* Vengeance will fit under NH-D14 than it should fit under TC14PE. Key word is "if"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting under cooler does not mean fans will fit. 120mm fans probably. But 140mm fan needs 20mm more motherboard to sidecover clearance than 120mm fan does. RAM + fan +2mm = motherboard to sidecover.


I have the Corsair 400R, so I think i probably have the extra clearance.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonus*
> 
> I used Cogage Arrow with 2xAerocool Shark 140 mm fans.
> The difference between Cogage Arrow & SA is 2-3degrees with my I7-860 at 4ghz., because SA have better mounting bracket with better pressure.
> I ordered 2 x TY-143 for one with Fanteks to replace his original fans. I will make a comparison, who of these three sets of fans works better for me (Fanteks, TY-140 or TY-143) and others will sell along with SA. I hope my motherboard well managed by PWM two TY-143 in low load when watching movies, browsing and listening music can not pass 1300 rpm.


I use PWM splitter with molex/sata power from PSU


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10350/cab-183/Akasa_PWM_Splitter_-_Smart_Fan_Cable_AK-CB002.html

Be careful of which one you get. Akasa makes a spaghetti / worm mess of wires and a braided version of it that is even worse because it heatshrinks the wires at end going into connector pins and sockets where they fatigue and stress break very quickly.


----------



## tonus

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1183190/width/350/height/700/flags/LL
Only this splitter for sale in Bulgaria.


----------



## doyll

That will be okay. This is not as bad as the braided Akasa version. You can use it as is or combine all leads/wires from fan plug to motherboard and molex about 100-150mm back like in picture and you will be fine.


----------



## Zboy

got my cooler the other day...this thing is pretty damn heavy lol.

and there is actually a lot more clearance than i thought there would be - plenty of space for any average ram


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zboy*
> 
> got my cooler the other day...this thing is pretty damn heavy lol.
> 
> and there is actually a lot more clearance than i thought there would be - plenty of space for any average ram


when you get it up and running post a Pic ill add you to the list


----------



## fjordiales

Has anyone used corsair sp120 on the cooler? If so, how was it mounted and is it better than the fans it came with?


----------



## Elohim

I'd rather use 140mm fans on this if you want the best possible Noise/Performance ratio. These big coolers really profit from bigger fans and usually dont need excessive static pressure.


----------



## doyll

Agree with Elohim. I'm using Thermalright TY-140 series fans with great results.


----------



## JRuxGaming

Can I get in the club? 3770K @ 4.4Ghz and keeping it cool at ~28-32 degrees centigrade idle temps.


----------



## JRuxGaming

Hey guys, is it normal for the CPU fans to stay off? I am still sitting in a range from 30-60 C on my CPU with out the fans spinning. I just want to make sure nothing is broken.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JRuxGaming*
> 
> Hey guys, is it normal for the CPU fans to stay off? I am still sitting in a range from 30-60 C on my CPU with out the fans spinning. I just want to make sure nothing is broken.


0
Don't know if anything is broken but something isn't right. Fans should be spinning all the time and go faster as heat goes up, depending on setup.


----------



## JRuxGaming

My setup is Red Madman in my sig. I will continue to monitor my temps.


----------



## JRuxGaming

I found out the problem was with the PWM converter. I removed it and now the CPU fans are spinning without a problem. Seems like a problem to me.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JRuxGaming*
> 
> I found out the problem was with the PWM converter. I removed it and now the CPU fans are spinning without a problem. Seems like a problem to me.


Sounds like the 12v or ground lead is not connecting in connectors or on board.. or it a bad board.

Contact Phanteks customer service. They are very good and will send you out a new one.

Bet your temps dropped when the fans started running.









Although your temps before were not at all bad.

A mate and I were bantering about who's cooler was better over a pint one evening when I was showing off how good mine was cooling. I bet him a pint I could unplug all my cooler and it would run just fine. While drinking that pint (I was getting lubed just fine) I bet him another pint I could turn of the case fans and it would still stress test with no problems. Well it took awhile before he handed me another pint... like 30 minutes of steady 100% load, but CPU temp finally stabilized at 70c. on my i7 920 @ 3.55GHz. Don't ask what the ambient was. I was too tanked to check. 20-22c range.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sounds like the 12v or ground lead is not connecting in connectors or on board.. or it a bad board.
> 
> Contact Phanteks customer service. They are very good and will send you out a new one.
> 
> Bet your temps dropped when the fans started running.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although your temps before were not at all bad.
> 
> A mate and I were bantering about who's cooler was better over a pint one evening when I was showing off how good mine was cooling. I bet him a pint I could unplug all my cooler and it would run just fine. While drinking that pint (I was getting lubed just fine) I bet him another pint I could turn of the case fans and it would still stress test with no problems. Well it took awhile before he handed me another pint... like 30 minutes of steady 100% load, but CPU temp finally stabilized at 70c. on my i7 920 @ 3.55GHz. Don't ask what the ambient was. I was too tanked to check. 20-22c range.


that is awesome. nothing like gambling, drinking, and tinkering all at the same time.


----------



## JRuxGaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sounds like the 12v or ground lead is not connecting in connectors or on board.. or it a bad board.
> 
> Contact Phanteks customer service. They are very good and will send you out a new one.
> 
> Bet your temps dropped when the fans started running.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although your temps before were not at all bad.
> 
> A mate and I were bantering about who's cooler was better over a pint one evening when I was showing off how good mine was cooling. I bet him a pint I could unplug all my cooler and it would run just fine. While drinking that pint (I was getting lubed just fine) I bet him another pint I could turn of the case fans and it would still stress test with no problems. Well it took awhile before he handed me another pint... like 30 minutes of steady 100% load, but CPU temp finally stabilized at 70c. on my i7 920 @ 3.55GHz. Don't ask what the ambient was. I was too tanked to check. 20-22c range.


The Temps are steadier now. I believe the reason why they stayed so low was because I have some really nice BitFenix fans in the case as well as two 140mm fans that came with the Define R4 (also really good fans), so there was still some good air flow. I will contact Phanteks and see if they can send me another PWM converter.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JRuxGaming*
> 
> The Temps are steadier now. I believe the reason why they stayed so low was because I have some really nice BitFenix fans in the case as well as two 140mm fans that came with the Define R4 (also really good fans), so there was still some good air flow. I will contact Phanteks and see if they can send me another PWM converter.


I'm sure having one of the biggest and best cooling coolers and one of the best cases didn't help much.









How fast are the fans now spinning and what are your temps compared to no cooler fans running?


----------



## JRuxGaming

The case fans spin at ~1700RPM (They go higher for temps. See BitFenix Spectre PWM). I still see the same temps. the only difference is the min temps are ~2 degrees lower.


----------



## JSrig

Hey guys, got myself a black phtc14pe. The heat pipes of both heat sink tower is a little longer on the right side than the left so instead of it being parallel to the side window panel it points a little downward. Does this affect performance? A friend of mine who has the same cpu fan, pretty much the same components, runs a lower cpu temp (~10c cooler). Is this something I can RMA?


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JSrig*
> 
> Hey guys, got myself a black phtc14pe. The heat pipes of both heat sink tower is a little longer on the right side than the left so instead of it being parallel to the side window panel it points a little downward. Does this affect performance? A friend of mine who has the same cpu fan, pretty much the same components, runs a lower cpu temp (~10c cooler). Is this something I can RMA?


You can definitely RMA, try RMA through whoever you bought it from(newegg/amazon etc) before you RMA through Phantek.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JSrig*
> 
> Hey guys, got myself a black phtc14pe. The heat pipes of both heat sink tower is a little longer on the right side than the left so instead of it being parallel to the side window panel it points a little downward. Does this affect performance? A friend of mine who has the same cpu fan, pretty much the same components, runs a lower cpu temp (~10c cooler). Is this something I can RMA?


Something strange going on.
"Phanteks PHTC14PE stops spinning"
"New rig gets stuck at boot splash screen"

And now you say the cooler isn't symmetrical
Have you set cooler on a flat surface to see where the difference is?
Can you post some pics of this "longer on right side then the left"?


----------



## JSrig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Something strange going on.
> "Phanteks PHTC14PE stops spinning"
> "New rig gets stuck at boot splash screen"
> 
> And now you say the cooler isn't symmetrical
> Have you set cooler on a flat surface to see where the difference is?
> Can you post some pics of this "longer on right side then the left"?


I'm starting to feel the same way. The splash screen issue has been fixed (so far) when I changed USB ports for my keyboard and mouse.
Not sure what's going on the CPU fans not spinning yet and if this has something to do with it.


Not sure if you can see it properly but the heat pipes on one side is a little longer which makes the whole thing slant downward.


----------



## doyll

I can see the fan is tweaked but can't really see the cooler. Could you take a pic with the fan off? Then I will be able to see the cooler.

Assuming the cooler is tweaked, you should be able to get supplier to send you a advanced replacement with return mailer so you can use what you have until new one arrives and than return the tweaker.


----------



## JSrig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I can see the fan is tweaked but can't really see the cooler. Could you take a pic with the fan off? Then I will be able to see the cooler.
> 
> Assuming the cooler is tweaked, you should be able to get supplier to send you a advanced replacement with return mailer so you can use what you have until new one arrives and than return the tweaker.


Here's more pics. The heatpipes on the right side are taller than the left causing the towers to slant. Otherwise, it mounts properly but I wonder if this can cause the issues I'm having.


----------



## doyll

I didn't mean for you to take it out of your system.









Yeah, it's bent or something. I would contact whoever you got it from and get it replaces. They should pay return post too.

Phanteks replaced mine. Send me replacement and I switch cooler. Emailed them and they told me when to expect it to be picked up.

But most countries the seller is responsible for the first several months at least.


----------



## JSrig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I didn't mean for you to take it out of your system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, it's bent or something. I would contact whoever you got it from and get it replaces. They should pay return post too.
> 
> Phanteks replaced mine. Send me replacement and I switch cooler. Emailed them and they told me when to expect it to be picked up.
> 
> But most countries the seller is responsible for the first several months at least.


Haha. I couldn't take a good pic. Got it from Newegg, so basically just RMA with them?


----------



## doyll

Or PM Phanteks rep here on forum
http://www.overclock.net/t/1351583/phanteks-ph-tc12dx/20#post_19101413

Yes. I assume the packaging was not damaged so it somehow got through quality control and boxed bent like it is. As such Newegg should replace it at no cost to you and they then deal with Phanteks.


----------



## JSrig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Or PM Phanteks rep here on forum
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1351583/phanteks-ph-tc12dx/20#post_19101413
> 
> Yes. I assume the packaging was not damaged so it somehow got through quality control and boxed bent like it is. As such Newegg should replace it at no cost to you and they then deal with Phanteks.


Yep no damage to packaging. Sent Phantkeks rep a message









Do you think this can cause the fans to not spin after a long cold boot?


----------



## doyll

Sorry, no. I don't think the fan issue has anything to do with your tweaked cooler.


----------



## BarryBGB

I agree with Doyll. Just because the Rads/heatpipes are bent shouldn't affect the fans spinning.
Not sure what you mean by "long cold boot" but you could check the PWM adapter if you are using it. Maybe bypass it to test.
If your fan speeds work off a profile, you could check that as well.

Either way, I would return the unit to get a straight one. You will get a new PWM adapter as well.

Nothing worse than to have a nice setup to look down and see a wacked up fan.
Even if no one noticed it but me, I think I would have nightmares about it until it got replaced.


----------



## JSrig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BarryBGB*
> 
> I agree with Doyll. Just because the Rads/heatpipes are bent shouldn't affect the fans spinning.
> Not sure what you mean by "long cold boot" but you could check the PWM adapter if you are using it. Maybe bypass it to test.
> If your fan speeds work off a profile, you could check that as well.
> 
> Either way, I would return the unit to get a straight one. You will get a new PWM adapter as well.
> 
> Nothing worse than to have a nice setup to look down and see a wacked up fan.
> Even if no one noticed it but me, I think I would have nightmares about it until it got replaced.


I know right. Good thing I asked. It bothered me to death but wasn't sure if I could RMA it.


----------



## taney

Hi!

This is my set up:

Silverstone Temjin TJ08-E case
ASUS Maximus V Gene (mATX) motherboard
I7-3770K CPU
4x 8GB G.SKILL RipJaw X DDR3-1866 (Blue): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231616
ATI HD 5770 for now (swapping for NVidia soon)
Seasonic X-850 PSU

I want to run PH-TC14PE but I want to know if I'll have any issues with memory module clearance and also more importantly, PCIe - 1st GFX card clearance?

Anyone here with the Maximus V Gene board? Let me know.

Thanks so much!


----------



## JSrig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taney*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> This is my set up:
> 
> Silverstone Temjin TJ08-E case
> ASUS Maximus V Gene (mATX) motherboard
> I7-3770K CPU
> 4x 8GB G.SKILL RipJaw X DDR3-1866 (Blue): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231616
> ATI HD 5770 for now (swapping for NVidia soon)
> Seasonic X-850 PSU
> 
> I want to run PH-TC14PE but I want to know if I'll have any issues with memory module clearance and also more importantly, PCIe - 1st GFX card clearance?
> 
> Anyone here with the Maximus V Gene board? Let me know.
> 
> Thanks so much!


Memory clearance should be fine and besides you can move the fan clips to get more clearance.


----------



## Jolly Roger

Hey guys,
I'm seriously considering buying one of these to replace my CM hyper 212 EVO that has two cougar vortex 120mm's.

But first I want to pose a few questions to this club.

First: On my current setup I was able to hit 4ghz with very cold ambient temps. Anything above that and I was cooking (65C+) So, will a phanteks be enough of a difference to make it worth my time and money? What kind of temp difference could I possibly expect? Should I stick with the Hyper?

Second: I have a sabertooth 990fx and 2x4GB of Corsair Vengeance RAM with massive heatsinks sitting in slots 2 and 4 (respective to the CPU socket). I want to keep the heatsinks; so I was wondering if I would be able to mount the fans this way: one fan in the middle of the cooling towers and one on the back towards the exhaust fan of the case. If this were possible would it effect the cooling power of the heat sink? (vs being on the front)

Finally: There is a lot of talk about these fans and their PWM capability. I see that they are shipping with the PWM adapters now. Do those really work? I plan on using the Y-splitter and the PWM adapter to plug it into just one 4-pin on my board. Possible? Recommended? Any other concerns/suggestions for that set-up?

Thanks a ton.


----------



## taney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JSrig*
> 
> Memory clearance should be fine and besides you can move the fan clips to get more clearance.


Thanks for the heads up! Any idea in regards to the PCIe slot closest to the CPU?


----------



## JSrig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taney*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up! Any idea in regards to the PCIe slot closest to the CPU?


Edit: not sure bout this to be honest.

2nd Edit: I highly doubt it will fit on PCIe closes to the CPU. http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2257534 If you scroll down, you'll see a pic with what looks like a asus v gene (on the user's sig also), noctua cpu cooler, and 2 evga cards. It barely fits and phanteks has bigger heatsinks.


----------



## JSrig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jolly Roger*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I'm seriously considering buying one of these to replace my CM hyper 212 EVO that has two cougar vortex 120mm's.
> 
> But first I want to pose a few questions to this club.
> 
> First: On my current setup I was able to hit 4ghz with very cold ambient temps. Anything above that and I was cooking (65C+) So, will a phanteks be enough of a difference to make it worth my time and money? What kind of temp difference could I possibly expect? Should I stick with the Hyper?
> 
> Second: I have a sabertooth 990fx and 2x4GB of Corsair Vengeance RAM with massive heatsinks sitting in slots 2 and 4 (respective to the CPU socket). I want to keep the heatsinks; so I was wondering if I would be able to mount the fans this way: one fan in the middle of the cooling towers and one on the back towards the exhaust fan of the case. If this were possible would it effect the cooling power of the heat sink? (vs being on the front)
> 
> Finally: There is a lot of talk about these fans and their PWM capability. I see that they are shipping with the PWM adapters now. Do those really work? I plan on using the Y-splitter and the PWM adapter to plug it into just one 4-pin on my board. Possible? Recommended? Any other concerns/suggestions for that set-up?
> 
> Thanks a ton.


TC14PE has massive heatsinks. The second slot will probably be under the 2nd tower and with the corsair vengeance's high heat spreaders it won't fit. You can get the low profile versions of corsair vengeance or g skill ripjaws x/sniper, those will fit.


----------



## Hells

Can anyone confirm whether a TC14PE will fit in a Corsair C70 without any problems? I've seen some very nice pictures on the C70 Owners thread with one in place (be it with the side panel off), but have also read that the C70 has an official clearance of 170mm whereas the TC14PE has a total height of 171mm including the fans. Seeing as the heatsink itself is 160mm tall is getting around this just a matter of lowering the positioning of the fans a bit, or is that more difficult than it sounds? Really don't want to order one only to be disappointed!

Planning on using a Gigabyte motherboard (probably a GA-Z77X-D3H) and Corsair Vengeance LP sticks so hoping that RAM clearance shouldn't prove to be an issue if I do have to lower the positioning of the fans a bit.


----------



## PNUT MnM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hells*
> 
> Can anyone confirm whether a TC14PE will fit in a Corsair C70 without any problems? I've seen some very nice pictures on the C70 Owners thread with one in place (be it with the side panel off), but have also read that the C70 has an official clearance of 170mm whereas the TC14PE has a total height of 171mm including the fans. Seeing as the heatsink itself is 160mm tall is getting around this just a matter of lowering the positioning of the fans a bit, or is that more difficult than it sounds? Really don't want to order one only to be disappointed!
> 
> Planning on using a Gigabyte motherboard (probably a GA-Z77X-D3H) and Corsair Vengeance LP sticks so hoping that RAM clearance shouldn't prove to be an issue if I do have to lower the positioning of the fans a bit.


I am also interested in finding this out as I just recently received my Corsair Vengeance C70. Will be purchasing a MSI Z77 MPower motherboard at the end of the month. Already have G.Skill Sniper ram (4 x 4GB) waiting and hope there is no clearance issues either.


----------



## JRuxGaming

I use regular Vengeance RAM that I took the heat spreaders off of. I have no clearance issues with the cooler, so with Vengeance LP you should have no Problems. This is with the UD5H motherboard.

With the case, however, I have a Fractal Design Define R4, so I wouldn't know how well it would fit in the C70.


----------



## doyll

Phanteks PH-TC14PE will fit.


----------



## Zboy

and here it is installed



really glad i got this cooler. i'm controlling it through the asus software and i can't hear it over daytime ambient noise. with headphones on i absolutely cannot tell that my computer is even on


----------



## OkkyDokkie

Hi, Im from Indonesia, sorry if my english is not good.
first of all i want to ask you, now im in confusion to choose Phanteks PH-TC14PE or H100i, why all of you here choose phantek than h100i (in addition to the cost!) ?

and then if I using mobo MSI p67-c45 and RAM viper3 intel master extreme series, it would be fit with phanteks?
I found some rumor that phanteks is not fit with heatsink of Mobo like asus Z77 (I forgot the series).

next if my PC is blue screen or erros becauses my ram, or my dim slot is error and I want to change ram to another one slot dim, it will difficult to move it? because RAM will closed or blocked with huge hetasink of phanteks







.

sorrry if the last question is out of topic, just wanna ask. which is better
Gskill DDR3 PC12800 8GB SR2 Dual Channel F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR2 or
Patriot DDR3 Viper 3 Intel Series Dual Channel PC17000 8GB CL11 - PVI3 8G 213 C1K or
Gskill DDR3 PC12800 8GB XL Dual Channel F3-12800CL9D ??
daily use for gaming only and i7 runs on 4.5ghz









thankyou guys


----------



## doyll

Hi OkkyDokkie and welcome to the forum.

Corsair have lots of people returning coolers with all kinds of problems.
Water cooling in much more complicated than air.. There is only the fan to go bad on an air cooler.
Phanteks TC14PE will cool about the same as H100i and is much quieter.
Change the TC14PE to fans as loud as H100i fans and it will be cooler.

TC14PE will clear 47mm ram for sure. Maybe more. My cooler is 50-52mm above mobo. Most RAM slots are far enough away from CPU so there is no RAM clearance problem. and if you have problems with RAM (almost never happens) and it is under cooler it's really not hard to remove and remount cooler. To remove/test RAM for a BSOD kind of problem you don't even need to reapply TIM. Just put it back on and it will be fine.. just don't run CPU intensive programs.







Sorry, I don not know how tall Patriot Viper 3 Intel Extreme Masters Memory RAM is.

I would worry more about being able to put the front 140mm fan on top of tall RAM.. because 140mm (fan) + 28mm - 52mm (RAM height) = 168mm - 192mm motherboard to side panel clearance. Many cases have 168mm - 175mm. Not many have more than 175mm.


----------



## Chrisoldinho

The Phanteks PH-TC14PE CPU cooler I purchased from did not come with a PWM adapter (despite advertising the fact it did with the retailer).

I have tried to contact Phanteks numerous times without reply via email. What is the best way to get a response from these people?

Best regards,
Chris.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chrisoldinho*
> 
> The Phanteks PH-TC14PE CPU cooler I purchased from did not come with a PWM adapter (despite advertising the fact it did with the retailer).
> 
> I have tried to contact Phanteks numerous times without reply via email. What is the best way to get a response from these people?
> 
> Best regards,
> Chris.


Where are you on our big blue marble? Phanteks has 2 main websites.

http://www.phanteks.com/01/requestform.html
you can select RMA or PWM.. you want PWM.

If you have already done this try emailing them
http://www.phanteks.com/01/Contact.html
select the support department.

If that doesn't work let me know because they have always been very good and prompt with me.


----------



## LtMatt

Hi guys,

Just got one of these coolers but it feels like im getting higher temps than i should. I've reseated a couple of times, done the screws as tight as they can go but still temps are the same. When i touch the heatsink its possible to move it slightly so that the unit moves a tiny bit, despite all the screws being tight. Is this normal? I'm not talking much, but it does seem strange.

Running prime small fft i was getting max temp of 66c with a 2700k @4.5ghz with HT on and 1.25 volts.

At an extreme overclock of 5ghz @1.416 volts im seeing these temps after 10 mins of prime.



Does that look correct? I was surprised to see it go up to the mid 60's running prime at 4.5ghz when the volts with only 1.25.


----------



## doyll

Well at 5GHz & 1.416v are you bragging or complaining.









If your are complaining back it down

66c with a 2700k @4.5ghz with HT on and 1.25 volts is quite good!

How hot is your case temp during these runs? Do you have a temperature probe you could put in front of cooler intake? Ideal is to get room ambient or very close to cooler intake.


----------



## Jamar2013

Quote:


> Here is some pictures of my rig ! Ordered the blue TC14PE.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamar2013*
> 
> Here is my last newegg order ! I am eager receiving it !
> 
> *1 x* Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition CO-9050009-WW 140mm High Airflow Case Fan
> *1 x* Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BL 140mm UFB (Updraft Floating Balance) CPU Cooler
> *1 x* Kingston HyperX 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 Desktop Memory XMP HyperX Blu Model KHX16C10B1K2/16X
> *1 x* GELID Solutions Model CA-PWM 350 mm PWM Y Cable
> *1 x* OKGEAR Model FC333-6BKS 6" 3 Pin Y Cable W/ Black Sleeved


I will post updated pictures as soon as the packages arrive (next monday 4th Feb). To see all your rigs (i rode all pages of the thread), it makes me very eager to get it !


----------



## doyll

Great cooler. You won't regret it! Been using one for sense last May. Love it. Got a Silver Arrow SB-E Extreme for X-mas I need to compare it to.

What is GELID CA-PWM & Cable for?

Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition is pretty but I hope you have no resistance like intake filter & grill, HDD cage, wire, back grill.. it has very little static flow pressure which means it cannot overcome much resistance in the airflow.


----------



## Jamar2013

I will try to make readable sentences haha ! I am used to put words but in a mixed up way.

I ordered a TC14PE as you all did. I will put it on my cpu_header 4pin on the mobo, with the PWM adapter. But, if i was going to plan adding more fans, and in the optic i will put em on the same cpu_header 4pin, do you recommend using another (than the stock phantek) pwm adapter, with a molex addin to make more juice ? Does the Phantek's pwm adapter works with other brands regular 2-3 Y pwm adapters ? I guess putting another Y on the actual Phantek Y would be like... plugging a powerbar in a powerbar.. Not the best, but still, is it working ? And for the heat that the adapter can generate, how can we say if it is too hot or not... Like if i have a couple fans on Y's, how can i do to know if i need an adapter with a molex or not ?

Sorry for those questions


----------



## Jamar2013

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Great cooler. You won't regret it! Been using one for sense last May. Love it. Got a Silver Arrow SB-E Extreme for X-mas I need to compare it to.
> 
> What is GELID CA-PWM & Cable for?
> 
> Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition is pretty but I hope you have no resistance like intake filter & grill, HDD cage, wire, back grill.. it has very little static flow pressure which means it cannot overcome much resistance in the airflow.


Planning adding more fan in the future, i will maybe reorganise my actuals pwm fans too, and i wanted to try. Plus, there were not that priced. And if Phantek forget his special adapter, i will still have a regular pwm y... !

edit : About the AF140, it is gonna be my top-rear exhaust, and i do not have filters on the top for exhausting (which i guess would blocks or makes a resistence at the outgoing of the hot air). And the top's case is full mesh with honeycomb holes.

edit : With more time, i would have been able to select a better fan.. and prolly a better ram.. i am addict clicking Buy on websites ! I love upgrading my pc hehe almost an hobby (more than a need)


----------



## Jolly Roger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chrisoldinho*
> 
> The Phanteks PH-TC14PE CPU cooler I purchased from did not come with a PWM adapter (despite advertising the fact it did with the retailer).
> 
> I have tried to contact Phanteks numerous times without reply via email. What is the best way to get a response from these people?
> 
> Best regards,
> Chris.


I've tried twice. No success. Waited months.


----------



## doyll

If Phanteks forgot their PWM adapter you can't run their fans PWM. They are not PWM fans.
As for controlling more fans using PWM signal the PWM splitters with molex power are the way to go. All the mobo has to supply is the signal so you can run 6,7,8, 9 fans and not overload your mobo.









Try to avoid the Akasa braided ones. They tend to fatigue and break wires right at the molex and PWM connecter.. too many wires into one place without enough stress relief.


----------



## Jamar2013

deleted by Jamar


----------



## catbuster

Has any1 instaled tc14pe on mATX board? have matx board for now, will go atx with haswell


----------



## taney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Has any1 instaled tc14pe on mATX board? have matx board for now, will go atx with haswell


Many have already. Search will prevail buddy!

just go on the TJ08-E owners thread.


----------



## Jamar2013

Hi guys,

Here is my new Phanteks TC14PE Blue Cooler !











I think this is an awesome cooler ! But, my 3pin-to-4pin adapter isnt working correctly. When i start the computer, fans start, but they do not keep their swing, they just shut after couple of seconds. I did just plug it straight 3pin on my 4pin motherboard. Cpu fan is running in the 1200-1300 and i hear em a little, but nothing much !







Still, very great cooling results.

edit: Even still, black would looks good too haha ^^


----------



## doyll

Smurfalicious! Blue is cool.


----------



## Airrick10

So I had bought a Kraken X60 and tried it out for a month....I just switched it back with my phanteks! It's a lot quieter and since I used cool laboratory liquid Ultra this time around, it's at par with the Kraken X60!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> So I had bought a Kraken X60 and tried it out for a month....I just switched it back with my phanteks! It's a lot quieter and since I used cool laboratory liquid Ultra this time around, it's at par with the Kraken X60!


What fans do you have on our Phanteks?


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What fans do you have on our Phanteks?


Stock fans


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Stock fans


I ran stock, then TY-140's ([email protected]), now TY-143's ([email protected]). The TY0-140's did improve performance a bit. Main reason for them was true PWM control. Silver Arrow SB-E Extreme has TY-143's and is 7c better than Silver Arrow SB-E with TY-141/TY-151 fans.

Simple to mount with stock clips using small zip-ties to make clip pins. If interested I can post pics of mounting.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I ran stock, then TY-140's ([email protected]), now TY-143's ([email protected]). The TY0-140's did improve performance a bit. Main reason for them was true PWM control. Silver Arrow SB-E Extreme has TY-143's and is 7c better than Silver Arrow SB-E with TY-141/TY-151 fans.
> 
> Simple to mount with stock clips using small zip-ties to make clip pins. If interested I can post pics of mounting.


Thanks Doyll! I like using a fan controller so I'm good right now but thanks anyways! I did see your pics a while back on how to mount the fans with the zip tie trick...pretty cool!


----------



## tonus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I ran stock, then TY-140's ([email protected]), now TY-143's ([email protected]). The TY0-140's did improve performance a bit. Main reason for them was true PWM control. Silver Arrow SB-E Extreme has TY-143's and is 7c better than Silver Arrow SB-E with TY-141/TY-151 fans.
> 
> Simple to mount with stock clips using small zip-ties to make clip pins. If interested I can post pics of mounting.


I am interested in tricks with zip ties because finally completed my long waiting for Fanteks and is now on my desk. I intend to use it with two fans TY141 + one Fanteks or order another TI-141 if it finds that the effect of a third fan.

Ops i found your pics.
Thank you.


----------



## doyll

Glad you found the tonus


----------



## tonus

Will install new cooler during the weekend. Tonight I compared three sets of fans to decide which ones are best for me. Carried out a comparison on my old cooler-classic Silver Arrow.
I used LinX 10 loops.
1. 2xScythe 140mm - Slip Stream PWM Adjustable VR on 1300RPM(Aida64)

74C 71C 69C 74C- Real temp

2. 2xPhanteks 140 mm fans- 1300RPM(Aida64)
74C 72C 70C 74C- Real temp

3. 2xTY-141-1300RPM(Aida64)
73C 71C 69C 73C- Real temp


----------



## doyll

So TY-141 was slightly better. 1c.

So fans with higher rpm like TY-143's 2500rpm you would get 5-7c cooler temps.. Similar to what tw33k got running UK3000 on TC14PE

Did you try the Slip Stream PWM Adjustable VR at higher rpm?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1260241/high-end-air-cooling-vs-closed-loop-water-cooling


----------



## tonus

Yes at 1700rpm is 4-5 degrees better.


----------



## doyll

That means it is 3-4c better than H100 is... or about 1c warmer H100i is.. and both of them are running 2500rpm fans.


----------



## tonus

Add me in the club.





Here's my new Fanteks in action compared to my old SA. After a test with LINKS showed 2-3 degrees lower core temperatures.Initially showed 7-8 degrees higher core temperatures, but noticed that the midle fan does not work.The reason was fu****g splitter Akasa. After I fixed everything is fine.I'll need to buy a better, whose wires do not get away so easily from the headers. Unfortunately, this model is only sold in Bulgaria.


----------



## doyll

Looks good!


----------



## tonus

Next week i will buy third ty-141.


----------



## doyll

If you can get TY-143's, two of them will do much better than three TY-141's


----------



## tonus

Bulgarian importer does not import Thermalrright TY-143 and would be difficult and expensive to deliver them. I guess that they will sound even more terrifying than my two Scythe1700rpm fans.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonus*
> 
> Bulgarian importer does not import Thermalrright TY-143 and would be difficult and expensive to deliver them. I guess that they will sound even more terrifying than my two Scythe1700rpm fans.


Only if you run them at high rpm. I'm rendering graphics with mine right now and can't hear it at 970rpm and it's an open bench setup at the moment. Well, I think I might just hear it.. no.. just heard HDD click... nope, can't hear any fan noise from any of the 5 fans; PSU, GPU, CPU or HDD (Enermax 120mm, Slip Steam 120mm Slim, 1x TY-140 or 2x TY-143) 2 meters away in silent room

Scythe has kaze Maru 2 Slip Stream 140 PWM Adjustable VR
Model Number: SM1425SL12HPVC-V
http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/acc/117/sm1425Sl12hpvcv_detail.html

Is this what you have?

If so it's it's a very good fan too.


----------



## tonus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Scythe has kaze Maru 2 Slip Stream 140 PWM Adjustable VR
> Model Number: SM1425SL12HPVC-V
> http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/acc/117/sm1425Sl12hpvcv_detail.html
> 
> Is this what you have?
> 
> If so it's it's a very good fan too.


Yes.


----------



## doyll

Very good fans.


----------



## tonus

With Fanteks maximize overclocking to 4200 MHz while the Silver Arrow was only 4000 MHz. At 4200 MHz with the Silver Arrow as tested with LinX screen froze.


----------



## doyll

So:
Phanteks PH-TC14PE w/2x TY-141 is 4200GHz
Silver Arrow (original) 2/2x TY-141 is 4000GHz

I assume the Phanteks is cooling better? What are your temperatures?


----------



## tonus

At 4 GHz and 1.296 volts under load temperatures are currently
72 70 68 71

At 4,2 GHz and 1.376 volts under load temperatures are currently
84 83 80 85
All this is at 16 degrees ambient temperature. May it's time to turn on the air conditioner.


----------



## doyll

Very nice overclock!.

Yes, it's too hot in there. Definitely turn on the AC









How long does it take for temp to reach max temperature under full load? Reason I ask is maybe some of the cooler exhaust is mixing with case air and heating up case. Maybe not. Just a thought.


----------



## tonus

I tested with linX 10 loops. It needs a 4m30s to reach 85 degrees on fourth core.

The benefit of 4.2 GHz is only in synthetic tests for me.However, I feel satisfaction with my new cooler, because that CPU I've struggled a little more than three years to stabilize under the Links at 4.2 GHz and has unsuccessfully, while under Prime was stable for 24 hours.

The explanation is perhaps in the difference between the two surfaces of coolers. In Fanteks surface is flat, while in Silver Arrow is not ideal flat.


----------



## doyll

That's about what it should take. 3-6minutes to reach peak temp.

If you have a remote sensor thermometer.. One with a wired remote sensor... you could put that about 30-50mm in front of your cooler intake and find out what the air temp actually is going into cooler and how it compares to room temperature.









I have two of these and use them all the time when setting up systems to get airflow the way I want it.


----------



## baan

with ty140s


----------



## doyll

Nice!
How did you get the Phanteks clip pins to work? Mine seemed too short so I used zip-ties to make my own.

Do you notice any difference with the TY-140's from the stock PH-F140TS fans?


----------



## doyll

Just got a new PH-TC14PE_BK with the new PH-F140 fans.
Here's front and back images of new PH-F140 and old PH-F140TS. The vibration dampeners are not on the old F140TS fan.


New one looks nicer and has bigger motor. Don't know how much performance difference will be. I have 3 fans but only 1 pwm adapter and 1 Y splitter


----------



## JSrig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Just got a new PH-TC14PE_BK with the new PH-F140 fans.
> Here's front and back images of new PH-F140 and old PH-F140TS. The vibration dampeners are not on the old F140TS fan.
> 
> 
> New one looks nicer and has bigger motor. Don't know how much performance difference will be. I have 3 fans but only 1 pwm adapter and 1 Y splitter


Let us know how those new ones work for you. I dont know if you remember but I made a few threads about my troubles with the fans not spinning, slowing down then speeding up, etc. and I just realized I have the new ones. A friend of mine who has the same exact pc build but has the old ones (red ones too, just like yours) didn't have any troubles.

The new ones do look a little nicer.


----------



## tonus

Bigger motor=bigger dead space for airflow?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonus*
> 
> Bigger motor=bigger dead space for airflow?


Maybe. Different blade design could mean different airflow and less dead space.
I know the TY-140 series fans flow air different on the flat sides than on the curved sides..


----------



## baan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice!
> How did you get the Phanteks clip pins to work? Mine seemed too short so I used zip-ties to make my own.
> 
> Do you notice any difference with the TY-140's from the stock PH-F140TS fans?


thanks









I cant give you an answer about the differences between the two fans. I did not bother to test the phf140 because what I've been reading is that it is similar to noctua's and the ty140 was a better choice for a quieter funtion with a bit of better airflow.

as for the clips, i did see your fix with the zip ties which is probably the better way to do it. what i did with mine was i used a nail clipper and clipped a piece off of the side of the base on those black loops so it would not conflict with the mold on the fan.

the red line shows how much i chipped off mine.


----------



## doyll

Thanks baan


----------



## tonus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baan*
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cant give you an answer about the differences between the two fans. I did not bother to test the phf140 because what I've been reading is that it is similar to noctua's and the ty140 was a better choice for a quieter funtion with a bit of better airflow.
> 
> as for the clips, i did see your fix with the zip ties which is probably the better way to do it. what i did with mine was i used a nail clipper and clipped a piece off of the side of the base on those black loops so it would not conflict with the mold on the fan.
> 
> the red line shows how much i chipped off mine.


Nice mod.


----------



## gregoire

I installed a new fan (Noiseblocker BlackSilentPro-Series PK1 140mm as extraction and I took some (bad...) photo while my PC was open.

My computer is even more silent with the extra fan (I had a Bitfenix 230mm (set at 120 in /sys/class/hwmon/hwmon1/device/pwm2 which is the max that I can't hear) and a NB-BlackSilent Pro 120mm PL-1 as intaker) : really nice !

The two Phanteks's fan are controlled by the UEFI of my mainboard (didn't see any difference with PWM or not so I removed the PWM) for a CPU (3770k) of 45° with level 1 fan (lowest speed) which isn't enough when I compil with "make -j9" where my CPU alsmost hit 55° and the Phanteks's fan get a little bit noisy, but really shortly (I got nice thermal paste : liquid ultra)


----------



## Elohim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Just got a new PH-TC14PE_BK with the new PH-F140 fans.
> Here's front and back images of new PH-F140 and old PH-F140TS. The vibration dampeners are not on the old F140TS fan.
> 
> 
> New one looks nicer and has bigger motor. Don't know how much performance difference will be. I have 3 fans but only 1 pwm adapter and 1 Y splitter


Oh, thanks for the info, i didnt even know they changed up the fan design. Can you tell be a bit about the difference in sound?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elohim*
> 
> Oh, thanks for the info, i didnt even know they changed up the fan design. Can you tell be a bit about the difference in sound?


Haven't really done much with them yet. Quick plug in and listen impression is no much if any difference from old ones. About same as TY-141/143.. not as quiet asTY-140, This was 700rpm using PWM signal and included PWM adapter to regulate rpm. Will try to do more later.


----------



## baan

thanks.









some more pics.


----------



## doyll

Looks really nice.









The stock fans with white housing look good but I almost think the TY-140 tan might be better.
Now you've got me trying to visualize it with TY-147 fans... Black housing with white blades.


----------



## AMD_Freak

updated the list added : gregoire & baan


----------



## catbuster

just instaled Phanteks PH-TC14PE on mATX board







fits like a charm about 1-1,5 mm from gpu in 1 pci-e slot, did fan clip zip tie mod just to be sure nothing goes wrong









will post some pictures next day, now its too dark in my room to get nice photos with my mobile phone


----------



## jcamp6336

Just a couple of updated shots


----------



## Jamar2013

Spoiler: Jcamp6336's pc



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcamp6336*
> 
> Just a couple of updated shots





I really like the look of your PC ! I think the side panel looks very nice hehe ! I really like your case.






















Just for the first pic, i give a 10/10 hehe , word.


----------



## Theultimateeye

delete


----------



## Theultimateeye

delete


----------



## Andorski

I've been thinking about getting this air cooler for a Bitfenix Prodigy mITX build that I'm working on, but I have some questions concerning its size.


Can the 140mm fan in the middle of the two sets of fins be dropped down all the way so that it doesn't increase the height of the heatsink? The 160mm height of the heatsink is the absolute highest that the Bitfenix Prodigy can fit in while still having intake fans on top.
Do Phanteks sell the PH-F120HP 120mm PWM fans that they have on the PH-TC12DX separately? I cannot use one of the 140mm fans because they cannot fit over the RAM unless I place them up higher on the heatsink (which I'm trying to avoid). I would like to use Phantek's 120mm PWM fan instead, but cannot find them for sale separately.


----------



## doyll

1. You can lower the middle fan flush with top. I did on min. Just removed the thumb screw that secures the crossbar on top of cooler base. It's not needed but if you want a screw there a hdd screw (there are 2 sizes) works.

2. I haven't see the PH-F120HP sold separately but the PH-120S is available. Just use the splitter and PWM adapter supplied with cooler for control.


----------



## jcamp6336

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamar2013*
> 
> I really like the look of your PC ! I think the side panel looks very nice hehe ! I really like your case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just for the first pic, i give a 10/10 hehe , word.


thanks a lot, always nice to hear words of praise from a fellow OCNer.


----------



## Brutl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andorski*
> 
> I've been thinking about getting this air cooler for a Bitfenix Prodigy mITX build that I'm working on, but I have some questions concerning its size.
> 
> 
> Can the 140mm fan in the middle of the two sets of fins be dropped down all the way so that it doesn't increase the height of the heatsink? The 160mm height of the heatsink is the absolute highest that the Bitfenix Prodigy can fit in while still having intake fans on top.
> Do Phanteks sell the PH-F120HP 120mm PWM fans that they have on the PH-TC12DX separately? I cannot use one of the 140mm fans because they cannot fit over the RAM unless I place them up higher on the heatsink (which I'm trying to avoid). I would like to use Phantek's 120mm PWM fan instead, but cannot find them for sale separately.


just word of caution with a prodigy case, I ended up swapping my phanteks 14 series out for a 12 because the 14 is a damn tight fit against the back of the case with an Asus p8z77-I mobo. Still cools top notch though, and my 3770k is at a good 4.8ghz


----------



## tonus

At the end i added third ty-141 on my phanteks and core temps decreased between 1-2C.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcamp6336*
> 
> Just a couple of updated shots
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This machine looks phenomenal from top to bottom. Nice work. Makes me proud to own blue


----------



## catbuster

Hi









my build current state:



some clearence pics with mATX


----------



## HALA MADRID

I see that the fans that come with it are among the top 3 best 140mm case fans for a pull configuration. I have this cooler but it's too big and I wanted to sell it, then when I saw that one of these fans costs 25$, so 50 for both, I changed my mind. I'll keep it and use the fans on my case and replace the cooler with the Swiftech h220 in March.


----------



## jcamp6336

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> This machine looks phenomenal from top to bottom. Nice work. Makes me proud to own blue


thanks, friend


----------



## Theultimateeye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks really nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stock fans with white housing look good but I almost think the TY-140 tan might be better.
> Now you've got me trying to visualize it with TY-147 fans... Black housing with white blades.


Do the TY-140's fit with the included Phanteks brackets? I'm torn on replacing the fans (not sure what temp drops people are seeing) or switching to the Kraken X60...


----------



## Theultimateeye

Nevermind, saw Tonus's posts.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theultimateeye*
> 
> Do the TY-140's fit with the included Phanteks brackets? I'm torn on replacing the fans (not sure what temp drops people are seeing) or switching to the Kraken X60...


I've used zip-ties to make mounting tabs instead of cutting the stock tabs supplied like Tonus did.








Post #682 this thread.


----------



## tonus

Is it safe to put Phobya liquid metal paste on Phanteks.


----------



## RalphWasntHere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonus*
> 
> Is it safe to put Phobya liquid metal paste on Phanteks.


Yessiree.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonus*
> 
> Is it safe to put Phobya liquid metal paste on Phanteks.


I wouldn't use it myself.
I use Chill Factor 3 now. Used Arctic Silver-5, MX-4 and Phanteks before and can't say there is a lot of difference between them.. not enough for me to say one is definitely better than another.


----------



## tonus

I was asking for Phobya in terms of corrosion.


----------



## doyll

What you asked was
Quote:


> Originally Posted by tonus
> Is it safe to put Phobya liquid metal paste on Phanteks.


You said nothing in your question about corrosion.









As there are no links to reviews showing on Google and I have not used it I told you what I thought might be helpful.

Next time I won't bother.


----------



## blue-cat

So looking through this thread there only seems to be one Orange owner, is this right? I was going to buy one for £65 with an extra orange fan but if the demand is low I might leave the auction to run!


----------



## Tenchuu

I have an orange kit on my budget build.


also any opinions if i should swap the stock fans that come with it for the two Thermalright TR TY-140 that are currently case fans? (to one is hidden in pic and venting up and out) only reason it is set up like it is now is because i had all three white/orange first.

I switched the last two heat sink fans to the thermalright TY-140s, and the rear exhaust to a phantek. Now it runs prime95 at roughly 36C, and is much quieter. those thermalrights are far more noisy than the phanteks 140mm.


----------



## jassilamba

Got my phanteks in the mail on Friday, set it up and added a little touch of creativity on the fan itself. Must say its a really nice cooler.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Got my phanteks in the mail on Friday, set it up and added a little touch of creativity on the fan itself. Must say its a really nice cooler.


That looks great! seriously sharp. looks like I'm gonna go find a blue sharpie....


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Got my phanteks in the mail on Friday, set it up and added a little touch of creativity on the fan itself. Must say its a really nice cooler.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks like you have the new fans on your kit!

Love the black Phanteks logo on the fans. You do it with a Sharpie?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks like you have the new fans on your kit!
> 
> Love the black Phanteks logo on the fans. You do it with a Sharpie?


Yup sharpie is what i used and from what I have seen here it did come with the new fans and the pwm adapter.


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Got my phanteks in the mail on Friday, set it up and added a little touch of creativity on the fan itself. Must say its a really nice cooler.


You still got the stencil? Might appropriate the idea


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> You still got the stencil? Might appropriate the idea


The Phanteks name is raised lettering on the fan.


----------



## blue-cat

oh cool!


----------



## doyll

Indeed.. Even Cooler!!!


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Indeed.. Even Cooler!!!


I was thinking of painting the fan shroud red first but when I installed the cooler and looked at it that was the first thought that came to my mind.

Here is my other little idea using some scanner LED for GPUs -


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## doyll

Nice idea!

I'm into no extra lights.. well have thought of adding a couple work lights for when trying to see where that black wire is, then trying to find the black socket.. or black screw goes in the black case.


----------



## Zboy

phanteks is offering a free fan for those of us with the cooler already

https://www.facebook.com/Phanteks/posts/556245557742600


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zboy*
> 
> phanteks is offering a free fan for those of us with the cooler already
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/Phanteks/posts/556245557742600


BAHAHAHAHAHA! I just bought mine with a bundled fan... guess I'm going to get an extra one!


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zboy*
> 
> phanteks is offering a free fan for those of us with the cooler already
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/Phanteks/posts/556245557742600


Nice find Ill take a free fan anytime


----------



## blue-cat

my graphics card is having a hissy fit. Might be because it's too close to the massive phanteks or that the card has bent out of shape and the cooler no longer fits porpperly. Making me consider a compact wc loop just for the gfx card right now!


----------



## lolwatpear

Just got it, and it's doing great


----------



## blue-cat

ive activated my account but its taking days for an admin to approve it!







no free fan just yet


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> ive activated my account but its taking days for an admin to approve it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no free fan just yet


Check your spam folder. Three have joined and posted picks in last week.

I'm rebuilding my R2 with new black TC14PE venting out back. Will post pics when done.


----------



## mariogitu

excuse me , hm i wanna ask some question about ph-tc14pe , well tomorrow im gonna buy this monster , but the problem is : i have 4x4 corsair vengeance (high profile) . and will it fit the first and second ram slot ?







m not gonna sacrifice my ram and im planning to rotate her 90degrees like this one http://cdn.overclock.net/d/d4/d4172b7f_PH-TC14PEmemside.jpeg , is there any impact with the temperature ? bcause i know the hot air from the VGA will go through the fan







thanks before


----------



## doyll

If your ram is closer than 70mm from center of CPU Vengeance RAM will not clear.

IIRC
RAM is 52.5mm + 3mm above mobo = 55.5mm mobo to top of RAM
Cooler is 44mm + 8mm CPUto mobo = 52mm mobo to bottom fin

3.5mm too tall

Maybe you could take the heat spreader off of the RAM


----------



## blue-cat

ah, I'm awaiting approval by a moderator







I'll contact them just in case


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> ah, I'm awaiting approval by a moderator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll contact them just in case


I understood that.







And it is possible the moderator/s many not have gotten it done....

but it is also possible that they did do it and your spam filter thought their reply to you was spam and threw it in the spam folder. It does happen sometimes


----------



## mariogitu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If your ram is closer than 70mm from center of CPU Vengeance RAM will not clear.
> 
> IIRC
> RAM is 52.5mm + 3mm above mobo = 55.5mm mobo to top of RAM
> Cooler is 44mm + 8mm CPUto mobo = 52mm mobo to bottom fin
> 
> 3.5mm too tall
> 
> Maybe you could take the heat spreader off of the RAM


are u sure to take off the heat spreader? i thought it cant be








okay i will check the gap now


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mariogitu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by doyll
> *Maybe you could* take the heat spreader off of the RAM
> 
> 
> 
> are u sure to take off the heat spreader? i thought it cant be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> okay i will check the gap now
Click to expand...

Read what I said.









Edit:
Google is your friend. Lots of people seem to have done it no problem. Even youtube vids.


----------



## .theMetal

yea you should have no problems running ram with out a heatsink especially in an air cooled rig. they are really mostly for looks IMO

but just be super careful if you decide to tear them off, some of the glue holding them on can be pretty strong, you don't want to ruin something


----------



## mariogitu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Read what I said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> Google is your friend. Lots of people seem to have done it no problem. Even youtube vids.


yeah i've googling so many times and lot of my friends said there will be no problem with high ram. we shall see







thanks for your response bro


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mariogitu*
> 
> yeah i've googling so many times and lot of my friends said there will be no problem with high ram. we shall see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for your response bro


No Prob.









I've removed different heat spreaders in the past. If you have to remove them study up. Use heat and don't apply too much force. Heat usually makes the job pretty easy. But I take no responsibility for it.. none.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mariogitu*
> 
> yeah i've googling so many times and lot of my friends said there will be no problem with high ram. we shall see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for your response bro


Plus remeber you have the fan sit a little up. I'm going to move my Dominator ram over the my present build that has the cooler, and will post pics later. I'm presently running some Gskills and they are tall as well and have no issues with the fans. The last set of pics posted in this forum are from my build and you can see how it looks.


----------



## mariogitu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No Prob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've removed different heat spreaders in the past. If you have to remove them study up. Use heat and don't apply too much force. Heat usually makes the job pretty easy. But I take no responsibility for it.. none.


well im not going to remove the heat spreadder









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Plus remeber you have the fan sit a little up. I'm going to move my Dominator ram over the my present build that has the cooler, and will post pics later. I'm presently running some Gskills and they are tall as well and have no issues with the fans. The last set of pics posted in this forum are from my build and you can see how it looks.


hm maybe u post the pics first so i can look







im newbie with this one


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mariogitu*
> 
> well im not going to remove the heat spreadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hm maybe u post the pics first so i can look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im newbie with this one


Here are some pics..

First with the Corsair Dominator, the fan sits too high and I *could NOT close* the top of my HAF XB




Here is a quick comparison between the Domintaor and the Gskill Ripgaws:




And here is how it looks with the Ripgaws installed. They are a perfect fit.





hope these pics help.


----------



## doyll

Nice rig jassilamba

Another option is to put the fan on the back of cooler


----------



## windowszp

What is the smallest case from Lian Li (or similar high quality cases) this cooler will fit in?
What sort of things should I look out for when determining if this cooler will fit?

Like how many inches/mm deep does a case need to be?


----------



## doyll

Bitfenix Prodigy

post #684
http://www.overclock.net/t/1279693/bitfenix-prodigy-owners-club/680

http://www.phanteksusa.com/forum/showthread.php?192-Nameless

http://www.phanteksusa.com/forum/showthread.php?195-Phanteks-in-my-Prodigy-by-gogosto


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice rig jassilamba
> 
> Another option is to put the fan on the back of cooler


Thanks mate, the other option for mounting the fan will work fine on the 1155 socket (majority cases), but on the X79 platform with ram slots on both ends, 1 of the two fans will have the issue I was having while using the Dominator ram.


----------



## windowszp

Well I just got this beast delivered today. Had a chance to play with it a bit







.

Very good performer will post some results tomorrow


----------



## Odd1

Can I be added to the club, please?

Have been playing around with this for a few days. With Stock fans & stock paste, I've been able to take my A10-5800K from 4.3Ghz max to 4.9Ghz max.I'm running at 4.7Ghz now and idle temps are around 30-31C and max out at around 53-54C while gaming.

I have a pair of TY-143s to strap on & test out as well as a pair of Akasa Vipers. I also have a tube of tuniq TX-3 & an Indigo Xtreme to test.

Fun!Fun!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Odd1*
> 
> Can I be added to the club, please?
> 
> Have been playing around with this for a few days. With Stock fans & stock paste, I've been able to take my A10-5800K from 4.3Ghz max to 4.9Ghz max.I'm running at 4.7Ghz now and idle temps are around 30-31C and max out at around 53-54C while gaming.
> 
> I have a pair of TY-143s to strap on & test out as well as a pair of Akasa Vipers. I also have a tube of tuniq TX-3 & an Indigo Xtreme to test.
> 
> Fun!Fun!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Stock paste is good stuff. Will be interesting to see how TX-3 and Indigo X compare.

Look forward to seeing how you get on with the Vipers & TY-143s. I'm running TY-143's on mine and love them (red cooler and red fans) but only use the upper 1400rpm to show off







On i7 980 stock idle [email protected]; 100% load [email protected] Think I need to overclock?


----------



## dumafourlife

Just curious but how much quieter is the ty-141 vs the stock phatek fan?


----------



## Jamar2013

I just pulled the trigger on the TY-143 x 2 with some PK1 paste







I cant wait to install it !!!!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dumafourlife*
> 
> Just curious but how much quieter is the ty-141 vs the stock phatek fan?


Very little difference. Most people won't be able to hear it, especially inside of case a few feet away.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamar2013*
> 
> I just pulled the trigger on the TY-143 x 2 with some PK1 paste
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cant wait to install it !!!!


Hope you have or ordered a PWM splitter with molex power. 2x TY-143 fans draw 0.6A each.. that's 1.2A for two.. more than I want running off of mobo. Something like this.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Akasa-AK-CB002-PWM-splitter-smart/dp/B001J2YRUC

Avoid the Akasa braided ones. Too many wires in heatshrink going into connector pins and they stress fatigue / break between the heatshink and connector.

And chain your cooler to the case.. and case to something heavy.. so they don't blow away.


----------



## Odd1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Stock paste is good stuff. Will be interesting to see how TX-3 and Indigo X compare.
> 
> Look forward to seeing how you get on with the Vipers & TY-143s. I'm running TY-143's on mine and love them (red cooler and red fans) but only use the upper 1400rpm to show off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On i7 980 stock idle [email protected]; 100% load [email protected] Think I need to overclock?


You always need to overclock!


----------



## Jamar2013

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Very little difference. Most people won't be able to hear it, especially inside of case a few feet away.
> Hope you have or ordered a PWM splitter with molex power. 2x TY-143 fans draw 0.6A each.. that's 1.2A for two.. more than I want running off of mobo. Something like this.
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Akasa-AK-CB002-PWM-splitter-smart/dp/B001J2YRUC
> 
> Avoid the Akasa braided ones. Too many wires in heatshrink going into connector pins and they stress fatigue / break between the heatshink and connector.
> 
> And chain your cooler to the case.. and case to something heavy.. so they don't blow away.


I guess these could work. What do you think ?

I dont like the non-sleeving thing but...
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812311002
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119248

Edit :
This one is sleeved, and for two fans i think... What do you think of it ?
Edit 2: Looks to be for 3pin fans Y for a 4pin MB. I dont know








http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=71198&vpn=BFA%2DMSC%2DM33F12VRK%2DRP&manufacture=BitFenix
Edit 3 : From Startech ;
http://ca.startech.com/Cables/Computer-Power/Internal/12in-4-Pin-PWM-Fan-Extension-Power-Y-Cable-Female-to-Male~FAN4SPLIT12


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamar2013*
> 
> I guess these could work. What do you think ?
> 
> I dont like the non-sleeving thing but...
> http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812311002
> http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119248
> 
> Edit :
> This one is sleeved, and for two fans i think... What do you think of it ?
> Edit 2: Looks to be for 3pin fans Y for a 4pin MB. I dont know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=71198&vpn=BFA%2DMSC%2DM33F12VRK%2DRP&manufacture=BitFenix
> Edit 3 : From Startech ;
> http://ca.startech.com/Cables/Computer-Power/Internal/12in-4-Pin-PWM-Fan-Extension-Power-Y-Cable-Female-to-Male~FAN4SPLIT12


NewEgg are both the same and will work fine.

NCIX is okay too but expensive for what it is.

StarTech has no molex for power. It takes power from mobo which is why you want the molex.. and it's a total rip-off at their price.

Swiftech 8 way PWM splitter $9.95
http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter.aspx

Gelid make a good braided PWM splitter.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GELID-1-to-4-4-Pin-PWM-Case-Fan-Power-Connector-Splitter-Sleeved-Adapter-Cable-/160849195022?pt=US_Power_Cables_Connectors&hash=item25735bf00e

I assume you would run fan cables behind mobo mounting plate for cable management.. so only cable from splitter onto mobo is the one coming over top of mobo from behind and plugging into CPU_fan socket. You can black the colored wires you see from front with felt marker.


----------



## Jamar2013

Ordered the Gelid you linked







Ty for the tips !


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamar2013*
> 
> Ordered the Gelid you linked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ty for the tips !


Now you will have some extra PWM fan sockets.








You could get some PWM fans for your intake fans and have them run with the cpu fans. That's how my case cools.


----------



## Jamar2013

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Now you will have some extra PWM fan sockets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could get some PWM fans for your intake fans and have them run with the cpu fans. That's how my case cools.


At the moment, i have 4 Pwm plugs in on my board. CPU (for my actual 2 PH-140), REAR (for my rear), a AUX (which i take for my bottom-near-psu intake), and there is the last "SYS", which i take for a top exhaust.

Tho, these fans are pretty running like they want, and i do not think this is optimal.. My rear fan was running too low on rpm (it is 3pin), so i adjusted it on the bios.. but i may try like you did ! I think i will be put a pwm fan for my rear, and make it controlled by the last plug of my 3way pwm adapter ! I guess if my cpu cooler fans run faster, i have to exhaust that heat quicker.. so it seems logic that my rear fan is combined with em.. What do you think !?


----------



## doyll

That is logical.


----------



## Tenchuu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> ah, I'm awaiting approval by a moderator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll contact them just in case


Ever hear back from them? i have been waiting the better part of a week also. I am wondering if the securit question of first product did not refer to the first product listed on their page.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dumafourlife*
> 
> Just curious but how much quieter is the ty-141 vs the stock phatek fan?


I have two TY-140 fans in mine, and one phantek that shipped with it. in my old cases (antec 300) it was much quieter with the phantek as the final exit fans, but in the new case (FT02) it is much much quieter with the TY140 as the exit fan (blowing into stock golf ball 120mm silent fan). not sure if this will help you with the 141s, but it was a PIA to swap fans in the last case, so whatever help i can give.


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tenchuu*
> 
> Ever hear back from them? i have been waiting the better part of a week also. I am wondering if the securit question of first product did not refer to the first product listed on their page.


I sent them an email that bounced and then sent them a message on the forum. Still locked out so not sure what the problem is. Perhaps its because I'm from the UK but that makes no sense as they would have just blocked my IP from registering and there are all sorts of nationalities around.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tenchuu*
> 
> Ever hear back from them? i have been waiting the better part of a week also. I am wondering if the securit question of first product did not refer to the first product listed on their page.
> I have two TY-140 fans in mine, and one phantek that shipped with it. in my old cases (antec 300) it was much quieter with the phantek as the final exit fans, but in the new case (FT02) it is much much quieter with the TY140 as the exit fan (blowing into stock golf ball 120mm silent fan). not sure if this will help you with the 141s, but it was a PIA to swap fans in the last case, so whatever help i can give.


I'm running TY-143 now but had TY-140 on before. Have a mate who ran TY-141 on his until he went to Noctua (he's got the Noctua fan monkey on his back) We didn't find much difference in noise/sound but TY-14x cool better and as true PWM are easier to control.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> I sent them an email that bounced and then sent them a message on the forum. Still locked out so not sure what the problem is. Perhaps its because I'm from the UK but that makes no sense as they would have just blocked my IP from registering and there are all sorts of nationalities around.


I'm UK based too so that's not it. Are you using the same user name? Let me know and I'll try my cage rattles. Maybe they will hear mine and get it sorted.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm UK based too so that's not it. Are you using the same user name? Let me know and I'll try my cage rattles. Maybe they will hear mine and get it sorted.


Finally I'm able to post over at the Phanteks forum. Nice to run into other members.


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm UK based too so that's not it. Are you using the same user name? Let me know and I'll try my cage rattles. Maybe they will hear mine and get it sorted.


I'm called " truant " on the phanteks forum but I just checked and I'm still locked out. I'll wait til Monday and then send another message to them on the forum. If you want to rattle a cage then please do


----------



## Jamar2013

I am happy, my TY-143s just arrived, with the Pk1 paste ! Cant wait to install all this.


----------



## Ljanmi

Anybody laped Phanteks, what are temps before and after? What TIM are you guys using, which on is the best perfomer(non metal) for every day use all year long? I'm looking at PK1 but maybe there is a better choice, I wonder how much is Prolimatech better then stock TIM?

I own Phanteks/2xTY143 and Gelid splitter with stock TIM, just ordered Liquid Ultra but unsure about warranty after removing TIM so considering PK1 and selling Liquid Ultra to the highest bidder


----------



## Jamar2013

I was also wondering between the PK1 (which is non-conductive and in paste form), and the Liquid Ultra (which is conductive and in kind of metal form), I have ridden a little on the subject and it seems that the PK1 is one of the best high-end "paste form" TIM. Liquid Ultra one of the best metal kind tim. Tho, the conductivity can be dangerous if you drop some of it on your board
















I pulled the trigger on 2xTY-143 and the PK1. I will do some testing doing the before and after... Do the same when you get your









See ya soon haha


----------



## Airrick10

I use liquid pro ultra and honestly there isn't that much of a difference...maybe like 2-3c difference from PK-1 which I also used as well as Gelid Extreme and MX-4. I did notice some ridges on the bottom of the phanteks heat sink so I'm wondering if I should lap it.


----------



## tw33k

I use Liquid Ultra on mine and temps are amazing. I have run some tests vs Antec Formula 7 but I want to do them again. I'll post the results here.


----------



## Airrick10

My temps are ok for daily use....I have my I5 3570K OK'ed @ 4.8Ghz and my temps are 31c idle and around 75c while gaming. If I run Prime 95 then my temps will go past 90c for sure. Then again my fans aren't at full speed.

I also use Liquid Ultra on my MSI GTX 660Ti and it barely hits 60c (depending on what game I play).


----------



## tw33k

These are the original results on my FX-8150 @ 4.5GHz
*Antec Formula 7*

*Liquid Ultra*


----------



## Odd1

I've gotten everything together to test. The 2x ty-143s, 2x Akasa Vipers, Tuniq tx-3 and Indigo xtreme. I am currently running tests with stock Phanteks fans & paste at stock speeds & OC for baselines.

I usually run with fan @ full speed set in bios but I just tonight switched it to pwm control by accident. I was amazed that as I ran through my suite of benchmarks & stress tests, the fans never even turned on once! Right now @ stock 3800mhz I'm idling @ 28C and 34C under load using Linx. That's with an ambient temp of 23C! That's a delta of 5C & 11C! All running on passive cooling only! WOW!

Does anyone have any requests or ideas for me to test before I start switching fans & TIMs? Keeping in mind that the Indigo xtreme is a one shot deal so I'd like to make sure I cover everything else before I install it.

I forgot how much fun all this is....)


----------



## Huguito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Odd1*
> 
> I've gotten everything together to test. The 2x ty-143s, 2x Akasa Vipers, Tuniq tx-3 and Indigo xtreme. I am currently running tests with stock Phanteks fans & paste at stock speeds & OC for baselines.
> 
> I usually run with fan @ full speed set in bios but I just tonight switched it to pwm control by accident. *I was amazed that as I ran through my suite of benchmarks & stress tests, the fans never even turned on once!* Right now @ stock 3800mhz I'm idling @ 28C and 34C under load using Linx. That's with an ambient temp of 23C! That's a delta of 5C & 11C! All running on passive cooling only! WOW!
> 
> Does anyone have any requests or ideas for me to test before I start switching fans & TIMs? Keeping in mind that the Indigo xtreme is a one shot deal so I'd like to make sure I cover everything else before I install it.
> 
> I forgot how much fun all this is....)


I can actually unplug the fans and play BF3 at 4.5ghz 1.4Volts all the time i want (TT chaser mk1 with ALL fans installed, rear grill removed) yes this cooler rules









PLEASE !!! test it any way you want BUT !!! use those TY-143 at max RPM too see the difference in temps; i really want to know if it benefts from high airflow/pressure fans (wich i think it will)

ty for the time and patience

OH MY GOD 1 MORE THING









LOWER THE CENTER FAN AS MUCH AS YOU CAN AND TRY TO RECORD YOUR VRM/MOSFET TEMPS IF YOU CAN PLEASE !!!! (DO ANOTHER TEST WITH THE FAN RAISED A LITTLE)


----------



## Odd1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Huguito*
> 
> I can actually unplug the fans and play BF3 at 4.5ghz 1.4Volts all the time i want (TT chaser mk1 with ALL fans installed, rear grill removed) yes this cooler rules
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PLEASE !!! test it any way you want BUT !!! use those TY-143 at max RPM too see the difference in temps; i really want to know if it benefts from high airflow/pressure fans (wich i think it will)
> 
> ty for the time and patience
> 
> OH MY GOD 1 MORE THING
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOWER THE CENTER FAN AS MUCH AS YOU CAN AND TRY TO RECORD YOUR VRM/MOSFET TEMPS IF YOU CAN PLEASE !!!! (DO ANOTHER TEST WITH THE FAN RAISED A LITTLE)


Ty-143s @ max: check

Test VRM temps: check

I have an asrock fm2a85x extreme6 and the VRMs do get a bit warm. Does anyone know how to accurately monitor the VRM temp? I have a NZXT sentry LXE with temp probes Ican attach to gthe VRM heat sink. Would that be good enough?


----------



## Huguito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Odd1*
> 
> Ty-143s @ max: check
> 
> Test VRM temps: check
> 
> I have an asrock fm2a85x extreme6 and the VRMs do get a bit warm. Does anyone know how to accurately monitor the VRM temp? I have a *NZXT sentry LXE with temp probes Ican attach to gthe VRM heat sink. Would that be good enough?*


You can try it, but avoid a place where they get direct air from the fans (false readings) OR try hardware monitor/core temp or something similar; maybe some "asrock software suite" or whatever is called??


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Odd1*
> 
> I've gotten everything together to test. The 2x ty-143s, 2x Akasa Vipers, Tuniq tx-3 and Indigo xtreme. I am currently running tests with stock Phanteks fans & paste at stock speeds & OC for baselines.
> 
> I usually run with fan @ full speed set in bios but I just tonight switched it to pwm control by accident. I was amazed that as I ran through my suite of benchmarks & stress tests, the fans never even turned on once! Right now @ stock 3800mhz I'm idling @ 28C and 34C under load using Linx. That's with an ambient temp of 23C! That's a delta of 5C & 11C! All running on passive cooling only! WOW!
> 
> Does anyone have any requests or ideas for me to test before I start switching fans & TIMs? Keeping in mind that the Indigo xtreme is a one shot deal so I'd like to make sure I cover everything else before I install it.
> 
> I forgot how much fun all this is....)


Yes. Please monitor the cooler intake temperature. Like 30mm in front of intake fan. (simple/cheap indoor/outdoor digital thermometer with wired remote sensor or terrarium one work great). Braid a piece of insulated wire into the last 6" to sensor,bend and clip onto cooler/fan so sensor is in front of intake.


Edit: Your NZXT sentry LXE with temp probes might work


----------



## Odd1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Huguito*
> 
> You can try it, but avoid a place where they get direct air from the fans (false readings) OR try hardware monitor/core temp or something similar; maybe some "asrock software suite" or whatever is called??


Just found that TCI K2 can monitor VRM temps on my MB. I I will be using that...

I have a digital thermometer like the ones pictured & I've compared it to my fan controller probes and they match perfectly. I'll move thatprobe closer to the intake fan. Right now it's a bit farther away tan 30mm.


----------



## myzko

Just to give Phanteks some more loving, they offer a 5 year warranty on the cooler and a week back one of my fans on the cooler stopped spinning. Contacted Phanteks and they have sent a new fan that is now on it's way to me, at no self-expense what so ever.
Thumbs up for Phanteks!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Odd1*
> 
> Just found that TCI K2 can monitor VRM temps on my MB. I I will be using that...
> 
> I have a digital thermometer like the ones pictured & I've compared it to my fan controller probes and they match perfectly. I'll move thatprobe closer to the intake fan. Right now it's a bit farther away tan 30mm.


30mm is not critical. Just as long as it in the airflow of air going into fan and cooler. This is the temperature that is important to know how well cooler is working, not the ambient room temp.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *myzko*
> 
> Just to give Phanteks some more loving, they offer a 5 year warranty on the cooler and a week back one of my fans on the cooler stopped spinning. Contacted Phanteks and they have sent a new fan that is now on it's way to me, at no self-expense what so ever.
> Thumbs up for Phanteks!


Phanteks has very good customer support.







I've delt with them several times.. always great service. I noticed a new Phanteks owner who had a defective center thumb screw.. no threads on it.. asking what to do on forum. He'd emailed them but hadn't heard by in like 5 days. I dropped at note to them and he was sorted out that same day with new bits arriving 2 days later.
:thumb:Great people!


----------



## Jamar2013

On my side, the pwm y adapter that was coming with the Phanteks Cooler is not working (Fans do not have enough power to even start running, i see that it has some juice, but idk). Without it, everything is doing fine. I did ask help on their website. I did receive a email by Phanteks that said that they want me to give a screenshot of my invoice. I did answer to that email with my invoice in attachment, and nothing.. it was 2-4 months ago.

I did ask help again on their web site recently, saying that i already did the process, and asking them to give more precise steps so i can send back my invoice (by email, by ftp, do they want me to shoot an url, just be f** specific ^^ ). The intuitive way (throwing it in attachment, and anwser to their mail) did not work... so i am wondering lol.. I did not receive any answer since that. Feeling left alone







I said them !









It was just for the principle that if my pwm adapter is not working, i want them to ship me one that is working.. even if i do not need it







I want the Phanteks Original one. Maybe i did something wrong in the process, but i do not think..









That was my experience with their support heh.


----------



## Odd1

Just to let everyone know, HWiNFO64 also reports the VRM temp. I checked it against TCI K2 & it reports the same value. It's listed under PMBus VR as VR T1. I'll be using it to monitor the VRM temps instead of TCI K2 because it updates on the fly as opposed to having to update manually in TCI K2. Also, you can set it up as a graph...


----------



## Ljanmi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamar2013*
> 
> On my side, the pwm y adapter that was coming with the Phanteks Cooler is not working (Fans do not have enough power to even start running, i see that it has some juice, but idk). Without it, everything is doing fine. I did ask help on their website. I did receive a email by Phanteks that said that they want me to give a screenshot of my invoice. I did answer to that email with my invoice in attachment, and nothing.. it was 2-4 months ago.
> 
> I did ask help again on their web site recently, saying that i already did the process, and asking them to give more precise steps so i can send back my invoice (by email, by ftp, do they want me to shoot an url, just be f** specific ^^ ). The intuitive way (throwing it in attachment, and anwser to their mail) did not work... so i am wondering lol.. I did not receive any answer since that. Feeling left alone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I said them !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was just for the principle that if my pwm adapter is not working, i want them to ship me one that is working.. even if i do not need it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want the Phanteks Original one. Maybe i did something wrong in the process, but i do not think..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was my experience with their support heh.


Thats sad man(Phanteks customer support). Anyway, back to the pwm adapter, it is very unlikely that small spliter cable doesn't work, there's nothing much in it except a few wires. You most likely didn't set PWM control in your BIOS right. Check couple of combination in your BIOS setting and everything should work properly. I'm so confident that solution to your problem is in your BIOS PWM settings that I would put some betting money on it









Update

I remembered Phanteks fans are *NOT PWM*(3 pin fans) and you get PWM adapter so you cant really make non PWM fan into PWM fan but you can control the speed of the fans by voltage and thats why you have 4 pins on a part that goes in the mobo and 2x 3 pins for the fans. Under CPU fan settings try voltage controled or AUTO. I remeber when I used it I had to leave it on AUTO since PWM control in BIOS didn't work.


----------



## Jamar2013

Haha, it may be it hehe. Anyway, i am waiting a 1 to 5 pwm Y with a molex. I will not be using the Phanteks one anyway. I will see with my 2x TY-143s (which are Pwm aswell) if i will have the same problem. If so, i wilk check my bios fan settings (and thank for the remind)









edit : If i remind, there were some Min and Max RPM Settings, but i did not see any "Control type" to put "PWM" or "Manual".. I will check again this WE !









edit 2 : I just rode you update. I will check is (the auto setting) asap as my job is done at work







Thank for the tip.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ljanmi*
> 
> I remembered Phanteks fans are *NOT PWM*(3 pin fans) and you get PWM adapter so you cant really make non PWM fan into PWM fan but you can control the speed of the fans by voltage and thats why you have 4 pins on a part that goes in the mobo and 2x 3 pins for the fans. Under CPU fan settings try voltage controled or AUTO. I remeber when I used it I had to leave it on AUTO since PWM control in BIOS didn't work.


Not saying it's not as you suggest. Just want to point out that Phanteks PWM adapter does control 3pin fans with PWM motherboard control. I've even used these adapters on PWM splitters with molex power just to be sure. Honest. I'm not trying to pull your leg or anything.







You plug the 3 pin splitter into the PWM adapter and adapter into PWM on motherboard and you have PWM control of 2x 3pin voltage controlled fans. It's not perfect but it works.


----------



## Ljanmi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Just want to point out that Phanteks PWM adapter does control 3pin fans with PWM motherboard control. Honest. I'm not trying to pull your leg or anything.


It's ok I don't mind







Voltage control and PWM control are 2 different things by my knowledge









PS I dont think there is a way to make a non PWM fan into a PWM fan, although you can control it trough voltage. Choosing in the BIOS under CPU fan settings PWM control should not work, I tried that on GA-870A-UD3 and it make sense doesn't it?


----------



## Jamar2013

The fans i plan to control by PWM are :

2x 120mm Noiseblocker (Bottom intake and top exhaust) (4pin PWM)
1x 140mm Corsair (Rear exhaust) (3pin Non-PWM)
2x 143mm Thermalright (CPU) (4pin PWM)

I have a Gelid PWM 1 to 4 Splitter with Molex (exactly like this, but with 5, not 4) incoming.

If i straight plug all these fans to the adapter, since my Rear corsair fan is not pwm, if i plug it anyway on the adapter, it will be "voltage" controlled or pwn controlled ? I think it will be voltage controlled, but if i put the Phanteks adapter in it (on one of the header of the 1-to-5), this is gonna be pwm controlled, even if it is 3pin...

Am i right ? Not sure if i understood well !

(Phanteks adapter is the only one doing Pwm-like on 3pin ??)


----------



## Odd1

From what I understand, PWM fans have the PWM electronics built into the fans themselves. Phanteks gets around this by integrating the PWM electronics in their adapter. So you should be able to use their adapter with any 3 pin fan...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamar2013*
> 
> The fans i plan to control by PWM are :
> 
> 2x 120mm Noiseblocker (Bottom intake and top exhaust) (4pin PWM)
> 1x 140mm Corsair (Rear exhaust) (3pin Non-PWM)
> 2x 143mm Thermalright (CPU) (4pin PWM)
> 
> I have a Gelid PWM 1 to 4 Splitter with Molex (exactly like this, but with 5, not 4) incoming.
> 
> If i straight plug all these fans to the adapter, since my Rear corsair fan is not pwm, if i plug it anyway on the adapter, it will be "voltage" controlled or pwn controlled ? I think it will be voltage controlled, but if i put the Phanteks adapter in it (on one of the header of the 1-to-5), this is gonna be pwm controlled, even if it is 3pin...
> 
> Am i right ? Not sure if i understood well !
> 
> (Phanteks adapter is the only one doing Pwm-like on 3pin ??)


Plugging a 3 pin fan into a PWM adapter with molex power give it constant 12v power. All PWM fans plugged into adapter will be PWM controlled by whichever fan you plug into the master socket in splitter. You can try the PHanteks PWM adapter on your Corsair and see if it will work. Problem will be how wide the rpm range is.

Edit: Or just get another TY0-143 for the back exhaust.







:thumb:


----------



## Phanteks Rep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamar2013*
> 
> On my side, the pwm y adapter that was coming with the Phanteks Cooler is not working (Fans do not have enough power to even start running, i see that it has some juice, but idk). Without it, everything is doing fine. I did ask help on their website. I did receive a email by Phanteks that said that they want me to give a screenshot of my invoice. I did answer to that email with my invoice in attachment, and nothing.. it was 2-4 months ago.
> 
> I did ask help again on their web site recently, saying that i already did the process, and asking them to give more precise steps so i can send back my invoice (by email, by ftp, do they want me to shoot an url, just be f** specific ^^ ). The intuitive way (throwing it in attachment, and anwser to their mail) did not work... so i am wondering lol.. I did not receive any answer since that. Feeling left alone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I said them !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was just for the principle that if my pwm adapter is not working, i want them to ship me one that is working.. even if i do not need it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want the Phanteks Original one. Maybe i did something wrong in the process, but i do not think..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was my experience with their support heh.


Hello Jamar2013,

Sorry for the inconveniences. Please PM me and I can help you with this issue. Thank you.

Best Regards,
Phanteks Rep


----------



## Ziver

Can i use my PHANTEKS PH-TC14PE with new 1150 Sockets ?


----------



## Jamar2013

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phanteks Rep*
> 
> Hello Jamar2013,
> 
> Sorry for the inconveniences. Please PM me and I can help you with this issue. Thank you.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Phanteks Rep


I received your PM and everything should ends in a Happy Ending







Thank to everyone concerned.









edit : Asap we knock the right door, It is ultra fast support









Have a great afternoon all of you.


----------



## doyll

It's all about knowing your doors.


----------



## Ljanmi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> It's all about knowing your doors.


+1


----------



## Tenchuu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> These are the original results on my FX-8150 @ 4.5GHz
> *Antec Formula 7*
> 
> *Liquid Ultra*


Awesome results. any idea why you ended up with such a big difference in and the roundup didn't?
(http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Thermal-Compound-Roundup-February-2012/1490/5)

I am not trying to be an ass, just trying to decide if i need to buy some to drop a few more C over the stock paste


----------



## tw33k

I looked to see how they applied the Liquid Ultra but they didn't mention it. If you don't apply it correctly you won't see these kind of results


----------



## .theMetal

hey tweek, how exactly do you suggest applying liquid ultra? I am probably going to grab some and delid the ivy, and I plan on putting it under the IHS and on top as well. so if you could give some application advice I would much appreciate it.


----------



## Jamar2013

Go on their website, you will see their youtube video showing the said technique. They kinda sweetly paint the surface.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> hey tweek, how exactly do you suggest applying liquid ultra? I am probably going to grab some and delid the ivy, and I plan on putting it under the IHS and on top as well. so if you could give some application advice I would much appreciate it.


http://www.coollaboratory.com/en/produkte/liquid-ultra/

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamar2013*
> 
> Go on their website, you will see their youtube video showing the said technique. They kinda sweetly paint the surface.


So they did it properly. I'm doing some testing at the moment so I'll see what results I get on my test bench


----------



## doyll

I've seen other like HardwareSecret who didn't get big improvement but the reviewers I trust like tw33k all have similar results.


----------



## Tenchuu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> I looked to see how they applied the Liquid Ultra but they didn't mention it. If you don't apply it correctly you won't see these kind of results


tw33k did you tint the cooler with the ultra also?

F it. pulled the trigger. hopefully i bring down my temps a bit more. multiple hours of folding @24C ambient sent me to 41.5C full CPU and GPU useage, and i had to bump up voltage a little to help and hopefully fully stabilize core.

funny how a fairly stable rig gets a little wobbly after 4-7 hours of folding.

I would love to pull my delta down to 10C or so @ over 23C like you showed tw33k. What fan setup were you running on your test rig?


----------



## tw33k

I haven't set the Phanteks up on the test bench yet because it means pulling it out and cutting all the zip-ties etc etc. I'm going to have to find the motivation to get it done. It's currently in my AMD rig with UK-3000/Corsair CW-8960007/UK-3000. The Corsair fan is a stock H100 fan which is rated at 7.7mm/H2O. If/when I pull it apart, I'll test with this configuration and with the stock Phanteks fans.


----------



## SR-71 Blackbird

My Phanteks PH-TC14PE with stock fans removed and replaced with 110 CFM Scythe Slipstream fans:









http://s1123.photobucket.com/user/area51reopened/media/2013-04-01_18-13-33_963_zps3c011337.jpg.html


----------



## LtMatt

Is it better to have the fans as low as they can go (height wise on the cooler) or is it better to have the fans positioned so they blow most or all of their air onto the actual heatsink fins? Using the three fan phanteks ph-tc14pe.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LtMatt*
> 
> Is it better to have the fans as low as they can go (height wise on the cooler) or is it better to have the fans positioned so they blow most or all of their air onto the actual heatsink fins? Using the three fan phanteks ph-tc14pe.


I set first two as low as possible for more airflow under cooler to cool motherboard heatsinks. On my x58 motherboards this gave me 3-5c better NB temps. Have also found keeping idle speed at 750rpm instead of 670rpm lowers NB temps 2c
I only use 2 fans as 3rd only gives 1c max improvement.


----------



## LtMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I set first two as low as possible for more airflow under cooler to cool motherboard heatsinks. On my x58 motherboards this gave me 3-5c better NB temps. Have also found keeping idle speed at 750rpm instead of 670rpm lowers NB temps 2c
> I only use 2 fans as 3rd only gives 1c max improvement.


I'm only worried about cpu temps. My motherboard always seems to run cool regardless.


----------



## doyll

quote name="LtMatt" url="/t/1106307/official-phanteks-ph-tc14pe-news-discussion-and-owners-thread/910#post_19757182"]
I'm only worried about cpu temps. My motherboard always seems to run cool regardless.[/quote]
Interesting question than.
Could you test them both high and low and let us know if it makes any difference?









My guess is low is better than high.. maybe even better than centered because the closer to CPU the hotter the pipes and fins.. but that's only a guess.


----------



## Odd1

So far in my testing with the stock fans, I've tried them raised with the center screw installed and lowered with the center screw removed. On my asrock fm2a85x extreme6, the VRM heat sink is just behind and halfway under the back set of fins. Lowering the fans decreased my VRM temps maybe 4c. Lowering the fans also raised my CPU temperature degree or so compared to intake temps.

I don't have the numbers in front to me ATM but I seem to remember it being along those lines. I'm almost done with the Phanteks fans on stock paste & will be moving on to the ty-143s next.

After seeing these VRM temps above 90c,I'm thinking about some sort of spot cooler to get some dedicated air on that heatsink. Anyone have any suggestions?


----------



## doyll

I've actually boxed in the area under my cooler with bottom of front fan blowing into it and air being forced out cutouts where heatsinks are. This is with TY-143 fans. Maybe their airflow pattern works better than stock fans. My temps run [email protected] idle and [email protected] heavy load/prime. Only time I use the upper rpm of fans is if I unplug everything and let the heat build up to 72c.. takes 30 minutes running stress to get there but it goes no higher. Plug fans back in and they run full speed for about 45 seconds and than over next 3-6 minutes drop back to 1050rpm. Case fans are PWM controlled on same signal as cooler with 740rpm idle and 950rpm load.


----------



## Ziver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ziver*
> 
> Can i use my PHANTEKS PH-TC14PE with new 1150 Sockets ?


Any information ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ziver*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by Ziver View Post
> 
> Can i use my PHANTEKS PH-TC14PE with new 1150 Sockets ?
> 
> 
> 
> Any information ?
Click to expand...

Nothing official has been released saying what the 1150 mount pattern will be.
According to leaks and rumors it will be same as 1055 and 1056 but remain to be seen.

This is as close to official as there is:

*Noctua Offers Free LGA 1150 Haswell Mounting Kit Upgrade for Older Heatsinks*
Subject: General Tech | March 20, 2013 - 12:05 AM | Tim Verry
Tagged: noctua, lga 1150, hsf, heatsink, haswell, cpu cooler
Quote:


> Because the LGA 1150 socket keeps the same mounting hole spacing as the current LGA 1156 and LGA 1155 sockets, many newer Noctua cooler will not need the mounting kit upgrade, and can simply be installed into the Haswell machine as is. In other words, if the heatsink worked with your Lynnfield, Sandy Bridge, or Ivy Bridge-based system, it will work in a Haswell system as well. According to Noctua, the following coolers are already compatible with Haswell:


http://www.pcper.com/news/General-Tech/Noctua-Offers-Free-LGA-1150-Haswell-Mounting-Kit-Upgrade-Older-Heatsinks


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ziver*
> 
> Any information ?


have you contacted Phanteks Im sure they would know since we have yet to see the new boards.


----------



## Odd1

Just had a look at my numbers. With the stock fans, removing the center screw and lowering the fans as low as possible (the middle fan is almost sitting on the mounting bracket) the VRM temps dropped 1c. That's the delta between intake temp (not ambient room temp) and VRM temp. On the other hand, CPU temps rose an average of 2.5c with the fans down low.
Also, I rigged up a small spot fan using my old AMD stock fans (wow, there is a use for that thing). My VRM temps dropped 8c!

I won't be using it for the rest of my testing to keep everything as scientific as possible but I'll be looking into increasing the cooling of those VRMs after all is said and done...


----------



## JJTT

Hi all, I am fairly new here......just wanted to join the party


----------



## Tenchuu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LtMatt*
> 
> Is it better to have the fans as low as they can go (height wise on the cooler) or is it better to have the fans positioned so they blow most or all of their air onto the actual heatsink fins? Using the three fan phanteks ph-tc14pe.


From my experimentation I always bet better temps with about 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch of fan showing above the top of the cooling tower. me core temps always burn/fold at about 2-3C lower.

edit: also if you have a case that flows lots of air, i found on my case (FT02) that you can over flow the air. if you flow too much temps will go up, if you flow too little temps will go up. there is a happy window that i am guessing compliments fan speed and smoothly pushes air through the cooler.

moral of the story is that a tower with three fans and case fans on too high will increase temps.


----------



## Odd1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tenchuu*
> 
> From my experimentation I always bet better temps with about 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch of fan showing above the top of the cooling tower. me core temps always burn/fold at about 2-3C lower.
> 
> edit: also if you have a case that flows lots of air, i found on my case (FT02) that you can over flow the air. if you flow too much temps will go up, if you flow too little temps will go up. there is a happy window that i am guessing compliments fan speed and smoothly pushes air through the cooler.
> 
> moral of the story is that a tower with three fans and case fans on too high will increase temps.


Is there a reliable way to measure airflow into & out of the case that doesn't cost too much?

Nvm. I found it. Use anemometer & convert fpm to cfpm...


----------



## X-PREDATOR

hi all im new here been coming/reading this forums for years now.finaly decided to join OC.net
im also a proud owner of this phanteks cooler ive got the red edition with 2 * 120 mm cm extraflo red fans [email protected]% fan speed (absolutely quiet as....).i used as5 paste.my idle temps are in the low
20s to 30s.
max temps while gaming range from 36 - 46 °c.
im thinking of adding third fan but how to run 3 4pin pwm fans of off the mobo cpu pin would be a bit tricky?
any suggestions are welcome.
i already have the 2 120mm fans on ea gelid y splitter pwm


----------



## Tenchuu

Finally got approval to Phanteks forum!!!!

also folding for 48 hours straight 1.512V on 1090T @4.2GHZ 27C ambient, core temp of 42C and socket temp of 57C.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> hi all im new here been coming/reading this forums for years now.finaly decided to join OC.net
> im also a proud owner of this phanteks cooler ive got the red edition with 2 * 120 mm cm extraflo red fans [email protected]% fan speed (absolutely quiet as....).i used as5 paste.my idle temps are in the low
> 20s to 30s.
> max temps while gaming range from 36 - 46 °c.
> im thinking of adding third fan but how to run 3 4pin pwm fans of off the mobo cpu pin would be a bit tricky?
> any suggestions are welcome.
> i already have the 2 120mm fans on ea gelid y splitter pwm


If you are risky run them all of of one. If you are like me and have 2 CPU PWM pins, run 2 off 1 and 1 off the other. If you are conservative then run power off of the power supply and daisy chain the PWM signal to the fans, but the CPU PWM jumper should be good for at least 2 fans in my limited experience.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

ok gonna try.ive got two 6 channel fancontrollers so maybe i can try that.
ill post pics later today.my case is aerocool black evil xpredator.ive got about almost 10 fans in there.all on low rpm.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

how do i get rep points or approved for this phanteks club?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

has any1 tried this badboy with some cougar vortex fans? were in south africa can i get the cougar fans


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> ok gonna try.ive got two 6 channel fancontrollers so maybe i can try that.
> ill post pics later today.my case is aerocool black evil xpredator.ive got about almost 10 fans in there.all on low rpm.


All you have to do is post a picture of your cooler in your case to get it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> how do i get rep points or approved for this phanteks club?


You get +rep on overclock by offering helpful advice or assistance that benefits the community or yourself. It is given by others so you need to consider what your posting if you really want to gain it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> has any1 tried this badboy with some cougar vortex fans? were in south africa can i get the cougar fans


I'm not sure but I would happily buy them here in the UK and post them on to you as long as you cover the postage costs.

p.s. YOu can edit your post by clicking the little pencil button so you don't have to have multiple posts and if you go to your profile you can create your rig and then add it to your signature so we can be envious of your rig!


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tenchuu*
> 
> Finally got approval to Phanteks forum!!!!
> 
> also folding for 48 hours straight 1.512V on 1090T @4.2GHZ 27C ambient, core temp of 42C and socket temp of 57C.
> If you are risky run them all of of one. If you are like me and have 2 CPU PWM pins, run 2 off 1 and 1 off the other. If you are conservative then run power off of the power supply and daisy chain the PWM signal to the fans, but the CPU PWM jumper should be good for at least 2 fans in my limited experience.


Yeah, I did too, I sent the phanteks rep on here a PM and it got sorted very soon after. They probably sorted you out at the same time









My newly illuminated phanteks


----------



## .theMetal

I actually really like the color scheme blue-cat. some orange cable sleeving would really make it pop


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> I actually really like the color scheme blue-cat. some orange cable sleeving would really make it pop


Thanks !








Yeah, I've been eyeing up orange and white 18AWG and maybe some sleeving over the top but don't want to risk fudging up my PSU until I finish all my CW and hand in my dissertation in September! For now I'm just playing around with the orange vinyl.


----------



## AMD_Freak

blue-cat I added you I dont know how I missed your post ...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Thanks !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I've been eyeing up orange and white 18AWG and maybe some sleeving over the top but don't want to risk fudging up my PSU until I finish all my CW and hand in my dissertation in September! For now I'm just playing around with the orange vinyl.


Have you considered using Paracord? You can't see through it and you don't need heat shrink and it's cheap.








50' for £3.50 or cheaper if you shop around.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/strand-Paracord-Hunters-Camping-Bushcraft/dp/B0040YE0N0


----------



## X-PREDATOR

mmm i like that idea
maybe a mix of white/red sleeving.
i love your setup.is that a sticker or custom
pai







[/URL]nt job on sidepanel


----------



## X-PREDATOR

heres some pics hope i get aproved


----------



## X-PREDATOR

mmm how much will shipping be for
4 120mm cougar vortex
3 140mm cougar vortex
and how much this all will be in rands?
any1 maybe know.

doyll did yo get me earlier apology


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> mmm i like that idea
> maybe a mix of white/red sleeving.


Some good simple instructions on paracord sleeving on youtube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLN5FM4Q0hA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tFUDqEvhmho


----------



## X-PREDATOR

cool.ill def. check it out


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> blue-cat I added you I dont know how I missed your post ...


Thanks!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> mmm i like that idea
> maybe a mix of white/red sleeving.
> i love your setup.is that a sticker or custom
> paint job on sidepanel


Loving the arrangement on your table, so much space and all nicely colour coded!
Did you see my previous reply about editing posts and signatures and postage?

Sleeving definitely makes your cables look amazing (if done reasonably tidily). It's a 'sticker'. I basically printed the design onto a sheet of vinyl and then spent a few hours cutting it out (MASSIVE procrastination







)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have you considered using Paracord? You can't see through it and you don't need heat shrink and it's cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 50' for £3.50 or cheaper if you shop around.
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/strand-Paracord-Hunters-Camping-Bushcraft/dp/B0040YE0N0


Yeah thanks, people on here always say high things about paracord. I might try it if it doesn't fray the same way as sleeving does. I found some sleeving for the same price but I'll make that decision when i come to it. Have to think about balance of white and orange and I don't have time just yet.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Yeah thanks, people on here always say high things about paracord. I might try it if it doesn't fray the same way as sleeving does. I found some sleeving for the same price but I'll make that decision when i come to it. Have to think about balance of white and orange and I don't have time just yet.


check out the links above. Paracord is cheap.. £3.50 for 50 feet and no heat shrink needed. Just a lighter.


----------



## catbuster

More and more ppl getting phanteks







i think i will paint fan clips black and ink phanteks logo in black = should looook good


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> More and more ppl getting phanteks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i think i will paint fan clips black and ink phanteks logo in black = should looook good


Hadn't thought of blackening the fan clips. Good Idea!


----------



## X-PREDATOR

thanks for that nice comment.im taking better fotos later of inside and back.just not now.whenever i open her up i wana tinker.so i try avoid it unless nessasary.yeh it did get it.but for some reason my galaxy gt doesnt wana play nice when i wana upload more than 1pic in 1post so for now i gotta post double times.
most of my cables are sleaved or flat.i still wana take the cases built in fan.contrl out ( its a bit crappy) and mod my zalman in there instead.and later remove hd cage and turn it or remove completely so my front 200mm can bring in the pain.yeah i got this desk for 200buks from a client who was moving.

seing i did add pics to prove i got phanteks can sm1 please add me to the owners club.i feel guilty being here and being a newb on ocn and all.

doyll i had a look at those paracords.awsome stuff.definitely better then sleeving.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> thanks for that nice comment.im taking better fotos later of inside and back.just not now.whenever i open her up i wana tinker.so i try avoid it unless nessasary.yeh it did get it.but for some reason my galaxy gt doesnt wana play nice when i wana upload more than 1pic in 1post so for now i gotta post double times.
> most of my cables are sleaved or flat.i still wana take the cases built in fan.contrl out ( its a bit crappy) and mod my zalman in there instead.and later remove hd cage and turn it or remove completely so my front 200mm can bring in the pain.yeah i got this desk for 200buks from a client who was moving.
> 
> seing i did add pics to prove i got phanteks can sm1 please add me to the owners club.i feel guilty being here and being a newb on ocn and all.
> 
> doyll i had a look at those paracords.awsome stuff.definitely better then sleeving.


Indeed.
No wire color can be seen through it and much easier to do with no heat shrink to play with.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i wonder if a local hardware store will have some.thinkinof going white and red on some wires that still need doing
most of my wires are all black.

mm...mayb time 4 colour change
black/red/white.
were do i post for advise on psu'?
im upgrading from hx650 looking for 850 w


----------



## DatUsername

Hey I have g.skill ripjaws Z memorykit (16gb) and I'm going to buy a new cpu cooler, I'm thinking about this Phanteks PH-TC14PE, but I'm not sure will the ram fit? Does it fit/ what is the ram clearance space in the cpu cooler?


----------



## catbuster

it will fit easily man


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatUsername*
> 
> Hey I have g.skill ripjaws Z memorykit (16gb) and I'm going to buy a new cpu cooler, I'm thinking about this Phanteks PH-TC14PE, but I'm not sure will the ram fit? Does it fit/ what is the ram clearance space in the cpu cooler?


Bottom fin is about 50-52mm above motherboard


----------



## X-PREDATOR

like catbuster said.itll fit easy.
you can always mount a 120mm fan on front instead of 140mm.
ive got 2 * 120mm @ 25% 1100 rpm according to hwmonitor and bios
idle tonight at 22°c to 32
its not as heavy as they say and super easy to install.if you got a big case you dont have to take mobo out.
it took me 20mins including makin cables almost invisible.


----------



## Tenchuu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatUsername*
> 
> Hey I have g.skill ripjaws Z memorykit (16gb) and I'm going to buy a new cpu cooler, I'm thinking about this Phanteks PH-TC14PE, but I'm not sure will the ram fit? Does it fit/ what is the ram clearance space in the cpu cooler?


I have moved my RipjawX from slot to slot under this cooler.


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> heres some pics hope i get aproved


Added X-PREDATOR


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatUsername*
> 
> Hey I have g.skill ripjaws Z memorykit (16gb) and I'm going to buy a new cpu cooler, I'm thinking about this Phanteks PH-TC14PE, but I'm not sure will the ram fit? Does it fit/ what is the ram clearance space in the cpu cooler?


Im using Ripjaw X also w/o a problem


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatUsername*
> 
> Hey I have g.skill ripjaws Z memorykit (16gb) and I'm going to buy a new cpu cooler, I'm thinking about this Phanteks PH-TC14PE, but I'm not sure will the ram fit? Does it fit/ what is the ram clearance space in the cpu cooler?


It would easily fit under the cooler, but the fans of the cooler may have to be adjusted accordingly.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatUsername*
> 
> Hey I have g.skill ripjaws Z memorykit (16gb) and I'm going to buy a new cpu cooler, I'm thinking about this Phanteks PH-TC14PE, but I'm not sure will the ram fit? Does it fit/ what is the ram clearance space in the cpu cooler?


I said cooler would fit but neglected to mention that depending on your case a 140mm fan may not fit between RAM and side cover. If that is the case you can use fans pull/pull from middle and back of cooler. Maybe loose 1c cooling.. cooler manufacturing and mounting tolerance can be more than that.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

imagine a cooler like this and a d14 performance
designd for gpus
that would be heaven and silence


----------



## jcamp6336

A few "finished" shots of my rig....


----------



## AMD_Freak

Good looking rig jcamp6336 Added


----------



## Tenchuu

Just realized i never posted my rig in here to Join.

http://s643.photobucket.com/user/Tenchuuk2/media/DSC_0690_zpsdfac0e3c.jpg.html

That lower fan in sitting on top of Ripjaw X RAM with the spreaders attached and clears.

I kind of hate to hack it up, but what do people think of adding a window to that side?


----------



## Tenchuu

Also here is my contribution to "does the coollabs liquid ultra make a big difference question":

http://s643.photobucket.com/user/Tenchuuk2/media/lultra_zpse1f6a228.jpg.html

***Edit** who thinks i need to RMA my power supply with my +12V comign in at a low of 11.28V, avg of 11.5 and high of 11.7V?**

I really wish i would have screen capped the run before with the OEM paste on it.

All i have is hand notes at a lower voltages that 10 IBT lopps provided temps of 46-47C. now they are 45C with a warmer ambient. With that in mind it is safe to assume i dropped around 3C max temp @ a higher voltage and 2-3C greater ambient


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tenchuu*
> 
> ***Edit** who thinks i need to RMA my power supply with my +12V comign in at a low of 11.28V, avg of 11.5 and high of 11.7V?**


Definitely RMA it as soon as possible, what PSU is it?


----------



## Tenchuu

It is a thermal take TR 600W. I now contacted them a a second time via email about the issue. I am thinking i should just give them a call during business hours next week to get the ball rolling.


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tenchuu*
> 
> It is a thermal take TR 600W. I now contacted them a a second time via email about the issue. I am thinking i should just give them a call during business hours next week to get the ball rolling.


Make sure all the connectors are plugged in properly, sometimes a pin may not be making full connection which can cause voltage drops. If that doesn't work then give them a call. Hopefully they will give you a shiny new TR2


----------



## doyll

Nice results Tenchuu.









As for Thermaltake PSU's well.... I had one once. I will never have another. . I will say no more.


----------



## Tenchuu

I am seeing that. i jsut bought the best one i could get on a Sunday at the local best (only place open that sold them) buy since i needed it to get new MOBO working...... now i am looking at a 1000 or 1200 w unit in order to build a dream rig and i regret buying it.

Also thanks for the advice Andy, as soon as bioshock is done installing i will check pin connections.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

amazing.
were can i get some of that tim ?
im using as5 (no im not a fanboy _-it just has been good to me)


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> amazing.
> were can i get some of that tim ?
> im using as5 (no im not a fanboy _-it just has been good to me)


If you're talking about CLU, then Performance PC's.


----------



## Tenchuu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> amazing.
> were can i get some of that tim ?
> im using as5 (no im not a fanboy _-it just has been good to me)


I ordered mine from amazon. and it looked like all pins were making rood connection. suck.

Also a messed up my calculation on that, THe picture is now updated with the proper average calculation and a delta of about 17C. Keep in mind that in in my rip pictured also.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

so will this c.liquid ultra be better than as5?
my current ambient(@night)
25(i only game at night,cant in day time)
idle temps 26 (except core#02 is always 5/6 °c warmer)
my max temp gaming 42 - 48`

are these ok?
i installed first time usi.g dot method.then my own way .i use small brush to form a perfect small sqaure if paste on center of cpu then very little dot ontop.been doing it this way for 2yrs.and has always yielded better results than just a dot.

is the l.ultra black or grayish?
i saw a clip on the .y.tube a guy delid his cpu and the paste is black?


----------



## Odd1

UPDATE:

For all those interested, I'm almost finished testing all fans on the stock paste. Just about ready to move on to the Tuniq TX-3. I had to start all over from scratch because in the middle of testing, the Antec Big Boy 200mm in my 902-V3 conked out. I came home to the fan hub completely separated from the motor and laying on top of my Phanteks cooler. I ditched all of my data and started testing over again without the benefit of the 200mm exhaust. I ordered a Bitfenix 230mm fan to replace it but I'll do the rest of the testing without any top exhaust to keep it all even.

I also got a great deal on 4x Bgears B-blaster 140mm fans that should be here soon. I'm excited to try these out 'cause they push 103CFM (just a bit lower than the Akasas) but at a whopping 3.5mm/H2O of pressure as opposed to the 3.12mm of the Akasas. Plus, I'll be able to test with 3 identical fans instead of just 2. I did find that the Silverstone FHP141s push 3.7mm/H2O but they are 38mm thick and will not fit in between the towers. I wanted to grab a couple so very bad...

Anyone want a spoiler and know the results so far?

Sorry it's taking so long, but I only have a couple of hours per day to play with.

On a side note:
does anyone know of an aftermarket cooler for the mosfets that will fit under the Phanteks?


----------



## doyll

Would rather it take more time and be more complete.









Could put FHP141's on both ends with a shroud in middle.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

that sound like a nice idea! :-D
doyll a few post back u said u have all your
fans running off of ur psu and pwm signal
from the mobo.
can u please explain how yo did it
post a pic or 2 please to show if u can please.
do u do mods?
ive got an idea for my case
i want to remove the top air vents and put a
dark tinted see threw panel in its place
with ventalation holes or cutouts of course
then put 3 120/140mm led fans there or just 2 led strips


----------



## doyll

It's easy. You use PWM splitter with molex power
Which one depends on now many fans you need to run off of it. Fans have to be PWM and it's best if they are all of similar rpm. But I use TY-143 2500rpm fans on my cooler and TY-140 and TY-147 1300rpm fans on my case. The idle speeds are 700rpm on cooler and 750rpm on case. Full speeds are 1000rpm cooler and 950rpm case. Speed varies a little depending on how clean the intake filters are. To use the splitters you plug the fan you want to be master control into the control socket and molex to PSU with other fans into other sockets. The PWM signal goes to all your PWM fans and the Molex supplies the 12v power to the fans.
Swiftech PWM splitter is the biggest and will take up to 8 fans


Gelid is also good and is available for 3, 4 and 5 fans


I do not advise using the Akasa splitters because they have too many leads running to single pins going into plugs and socket. These leads are stiff just before the pins where they all come together but are not supported into the socket so stress fatigue and can break right where they go into the pin


To do GPU PWM control of case fans you need a custom adapter / splitter to get PWM signal from GPU. You can run more fan sockets in the layout if you want or plug in a Gelid splitter to run more.


----------



## Tenchuu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> so will this c.liquid ultra be better than as5?
> my current ambient(@night)
> 25(i only game at night,cant in day time)
> idle temps 26 (except core#02 is always 5/6 °c warmer)
> my max temp gaming 42 - 48`
> 
> are these ok?
> i installed first time usi.g dot method.then my own way .i use small brush to form a perfect small sqaure if paste on center of cpu then very little dot ontop.been doing it this way for 2yrs.and has always yielded better results than just a dot.
> 
> is the l.ultra black or grayish?
> i saw a clip on the .y.tube a guy delid his cpu and the paste is black?


I used AS5 my first go around, and found that the phantecks paste worked better for me. Now the liquid ultra works better than the phanteks paste. Just my experience and i ran the AS5 for a week with multiple burn ins.

From what i gleaned from a quick search you are on the cold end for an 1-5 2500K. Most suggest keeping them under 70C to be extra Safe. If you are not running a big overclocks and getting max temps of 40-42c on something with headroom to 70C i wouldn't bother with the paste, you are running extremely cool already.

and the Liquid ultra is liquid metal. it has the same coloration as mercury. how to apply it is shown in the vid at the liquid ultra website. If you have to ask about deliding a CPU you probably shouldn't.


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tenchuu*
> 
> I used AS5 my first go around, and found that the phantecks paste worked better for me. Now the liquid ultra works better than the phanteks paste. Just my experience and i ran the AS5 for a week with multiple burn ins.










I'm so mature.... ass!


----------



## X-PREDATOR

awsome thanks.
well i currently have a pwm gelid for 2 fans(4pin pwm)
and the rest from my 6ch.fancontroller.
do you do mods?
i want to mod my case top panel with acrylic panel and remove the current vents that are there
any ideas or suggestions are welcome


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i will never delid a cpu unless its 10 years of age and comes from amd.
thanks fro the input


----------



## X-PREDATOR

this is what i want to do with my case top panel but use a see thru dark tinted panel instead with red led fans



but first i need to remove 

please direct me to the correct place for where i need to post for mod advise.

im open to suggestions


----------



## doyll

Would you mind posting about modding your case in more appropriate place like in Case Mods - General Discussion where people go to discuss modifications.
http://www.overclock.net/f/15/case-mods-general-discussion


----------



## Odd1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Could put FHP141's on both ends with a shroud in middle.


aaawwww... Now why did you have to go and post something like that?

2 on the way...









Oh yea, I also have a Thermalright HR-09 on the way to replace my mosfet heatsink. I think it should fit under the cooler...


----------



## Tenchuu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm so mature.... ass!


I do what i can and share info. I have had this cooler on and off so many times i have to be careful because the center screw is deforming.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

thanx doyll.it wasnt my intent to post here.just to get the right direction.hence i did ask for were i must go.
i had a look at that swiftech pwm thing.
pretty cool.ebay has it for 19$


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Odd1*
> 
> aaawwww... Now why did you have to go and post something like that?
> 
> 2 on the way...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yea, I also have a Thermalright HR-09 on the way to replace my mosfet heatsink. I think it should fit under the cooler...


Anything else I can do to help?









Other option in middle is make a duct that just overlaps the edges of cooler fins on all sides to hold it in place... you know, a box between first tower and second tower to keep the airflow in. I could make you one for a small price.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tenchuu*
> 
> I do what i can and share info. I have had this cooler on and off so many times i have to be careful because the center screw is deforming.


I think he was referring to himself.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> thanx doyll.it wasnt my intent to post here.just to get the right direction.hence i did ask for were i must go.
> i had a look at that swiftech pwm thing.
> pretty cool.ebay has it for 19$


From Swiftech they are $9.95
http://www.swiftech.com/8-waypwmsplitter.aspx
Of course that's not including post, tax, duty, tarrif, etc.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Odd1*
> 
> aaawwww... Now why did you have to go and post something like that?
> 
> 2 on the way...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yea, I also have a Thermalright HR-09 on the way to replace my mosfet heatsink. I think it should fit under the cooler...


Anything else I can do to help?









Other option in middle is make a duct that just overlaps the edges of cooler fins on all sides to hold it in place... you know, a box between first tower and second tower to keep the airflow in. I could make you one for a small price.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tenchuu*
> 
> I do what i can and share info. I have had this cooler on and off so many times i have to be careful because the center screw is deforming.


I think he was referring to himself.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> thanx doyll.it wasnt my intent to post here.just to get the right direction.hence i did ask for were i must go.
> i had a look at that swiftech pwm thing.
> pretty cool.ebay has it for 19$


From Swiftech they are $9.95
http://www.swiftech.com/8-waypwmsplitter.aspx
Of course that's not including post, tax, duty, tarrif, etc.


----------



## BKinn

I went from a prodigy with an H100 to my R4 with the PH-TC14PE and I couldn't be happier. The cooling is slightly better than the H100 performed (so far) but it is COMPLETELY silent since there is no pump sound now. I absolutely love this cooler.


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BKinn*
> 
> I went from a prodigy with an H100 to my R4 with the PH-TC14PE and I couldn't be happier. The cooling is slightly better than the H100 performed (so far) but it is COMPLETELY silent since there is no pump sound now. I absolutely love this cooler.


Added







Nice looking box, clean cabling


----------



## X-PREDATOR

oh that looks awsome
is that r4 the 400r from corsair?
if it is/isnt how did yo remove the hd cage?


----------



## BKinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> oh that looks awsome
> is that r4 the 400r from corsair?
> if it is/isnt how did yo remove the hd cage?


Thank you! The case is a fractal design define r4... I absolutely love it! I've had a quite a few cases and this one has seemed to be the best match so far. The top HDD cage just slides out, the bottom can be removed as well but I have to use it.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> oh that looks awsome
> is that r4 the 400r from corsair?
> if it is/isnt how did yo remove the hd cage?


That should be a Fractal Design R4 Case if i'm not mistaken


----------



## doyll

what Airrick10 said.


----------



## mmarkovich

Parts ready for build:

1a. SilverStone Temjin Series TJ08B-E (use to test case on AIR and waiting until CL S5 is available)
1b. Case Labs S5 ( want for future WC build)
2. Asus MAXIMUS V GENE INTEL Z77
3. Intel Core i7 3770K
4. Phanteks PH-TC14PE (use until switch to WC)
5. G.SKILL Sniper Gaming Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133 (PC3 17000)
5a. Samsung Extreme Low Voltage 30nm Kit MV-3V4G3D/US 16GB (4 x 4 GB) (back-up memory in case I need low profile stick)
6. SAMSUNG 840 PRO 256GB
7. SeaSonic X750 Gold 750W
8. EVGA GeForce GTX 680 SC

Long story short; I am in IT, but have not build a PC for years, Anyway, my AIR test build was not meant to be used for long time, after reading this Forum and doing Web research, I decided to go with Phanteks as one of the best AIR coolers. Unintentionally, then I managed to get not a bad deal on Silverstone FT03. So I stared wondering am I going to try to defy law of physic, trying to fit cooler of that size into case such as FT03. Thanks to another helpful OCN member, I did got confirmation that the Phanteks would fit in FT03, it would be tight, but doable. The Memory height was also of my concern, although, here I learned that the Phanteks fans can be adjusted for height.

So I did mock-up build just fitting Phanteks with fans in FT03, there was no mobo in the case. And then I moved to do another mock-up fitting GSkill memory, Phanteks with 3 fans on the mobo and that is where I realized that I have a problem. Apparently, the Phanteks is so wide (140mm) that the fan clips I believe would touch the back of the GTX680 when is seated in first PCI Express slot, the one that is x16, of course there is no problems if you move video card to next slot but it is x8.

So I would really like someone to prove me wrong and tell me that there is some magic 1mm space in between Phanteks and video card, I did not installed card and mobo in case, so there might be a chance that I tilted the video card too much toward the Phanteks. I read somewhere about using electrical tape to wrap around fan clips, but it appears that the fan clips would touch the back of the video card.

So I may have to sell the Phanteks and go for something smaller, little less wide cooler.

This is my first post trying to embed the pictures, but anyways here is the link for more pictures, I apologize since I was sometimes holding some PC parts and trying to make pictures at the same time, but you would hopefully get an idea.

http://mmarkovich.phanfare.com/2133347_6926529













I'd appreciate any input.

Thanks,

Misha


----------



## Tenchuu

as long as you have something non conductive (ie the electrical tape) there shouldn't be a worry about shorting something due to the clearance. Also you might want to try a mount in case, in my FT02 the mounting screws hold my vid card about 2-3 mm forwards (FT02 is a 90 deg mount, so translate to away from CPU) of where it rests without them. It may work in your favor here (ie your card might be leaning back towards the fans a enough that mounting with the screws pull it forwards out of contact). It is really hard to tell, but it looks like your card might be leaning back like i said and resting on the fans in that second to last pic.


----------



## mmarkovich

Thanks "Tenchuu"

I believe that you are right and that I would have to install the mobo, cooler and video card in the case; like you said and since the FT02 and FT03 are booth vertical 990 degree mount, it should work to my benefits.

Yes, in the second to the last picture, since the mock-up was on mobo box and since I only have two hands, I used the back of the screw driver to hold the video card upright, but I think that the screw driver tiled the video card toward the cooler, so I shall test this setup in the case and if need and as suggested use the electrical tape, just hope that tape would not melt, I guess it should not&#8230;

Misha


----------



## Samurai707

Got it installed last night, haven't had time to have any fun yet... Off work in 15 though :3
I need my third fan though!
One thing I saw on boot was my fans weren't running... after a quick spin once I hit the power button, I noticed they would just stop... When I'm home I'll double check and go into my pwm settings in the bios...

Ps: don't mind the dirty room 0.o


----------



## PredatorPie

mmarkovich have you checked if your cooler is absolutely straight. Mine was a bit bent, like this:



If that's the case then it will obviously fit better one way around than the other.

About the fan clips, I think someone used heat shrink on them. Looked pretty sweet. Hockey tape worked for me.











Here's my first pc build.



What a better better way to start than a case with 90mm cpu cooler height limit and this Phanteks cooler.







After some thinking and cutting the case I managed to fit the power supply to the front and there we go, cooler fits.



Can I join the club?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> 
> Got it installed last night, haven't had time to have any fun yet... Off work in 15 though :3
> I need my third fan though!
> One thing I saw on boot was my fans weren't running... after a quick spin once I hit the power button, I noticed they would just stop... When I'm home I'll double check and go into my pwm settings in the bios...
> 
> Ps: don't mind the dirty room 0.o


Love the black!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PredatorPie*
> 
> mmarkovich have you checked if your cooler is absolutely straight. Mine was a bit bent, like this:
> 
> 
> 
> If that's the case then it will obviously fit better one way around than the other.
> 
> About the fan clips, I think someone used heat shrink on them. Looked pretty sweet. Hockey tape worked for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my first pc build.
> 
> 
> 
> What a better better way to start than a case with 90mm cpu cooler height limit and this Phanteks cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some thinking and cutting the case I managed to fit the power supply to the front and there we go, cooler fits.
> 
> 
> 
> Can I join the club?


That looks really good!









What case is that?


----------



## .theMetal

Phanteks fits in the Fractal Design Node 304:


----------



## PredatorPie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> That looks really good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What case is that?


Thanks, it's a Thermaltake Armor A30 wrapped in car wrap.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Phanteks fits in the Fractal Design Node 304:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking forward to seeing that finished. Just love seeing people fit these in small cases.









EDIT: Sorry, it's so clean looking I didn't realise you had all the stuff in there already.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PredatorPie*
> 
> Looking forward to seeing that finished. Just love seeing people fit these in small cases.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Sorry, it's so clean looking I didn't realise you had all the stuff in there already.


yea actually the pics are kinda misleading, the first one is an in progress shot, while the second is all done, just lacking the video card.

But I did make some custom short cables for the gpu, hard drive and fans, which is why it seems like there are very few.


----------



## PredatorPie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> yea actually the pics are kinda misleading, the first one is an in progress shot, while the second is all done, just lacking the video card.
> 
> But I did make some custom short cables for the gpu, hard drive and fans, which is why it seems like there are very few.


Yeah, very good job with the cables, but I was wondering if it's a good idea to put the Phanteks fans like that. Aren't they blowing hot air to the hdd?


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PredatorPie*
> 
> Yeah, very good job with the cables, but I was wondering if it's a good idea to put the Phanteks fans like that. Aren't they blowing hot air to the hdd?


Yea the hard drive will catch a lot of heat coming off the processor, I have to do some testing and see how warm it will get.

If it gets too warm I am going to shift everything around and have the front fans pushing air in instead of out and flip the fans on the phanteks.

The reason I wanted to try this way is because the air coming in from the back will be nice and cool and go directly into the phanteks and the front fans will help exhaust heat from the processor and gpu, which is not a blower style and will put some heat into the case.


----------



## mmarkovich

Excellent point "PredatorPie," I would absolutely have to check is my cooler straight or leaning; I appreciate for the picture with the heat shrink on fan clips; this one great thing about forums like this is should I say community knowledge base&#8230; I thought I have seen the heat shrink "fix" somewhere, and then forgot to bookmark it&#8230;

You have done an outstanding job for your "fist" PC build-mod!

Thanks,

Misha


----------



## Tenchuu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmarkovich*
> 
> Thanks "Tenchuu"
> 
> I believe that you are right and that I would have to install the mobo, cooler and video card in the case; like you said and since the FT02 and FT03 are booth vertical 990 degree mount, it should work to my benefits.
> 
> Yes, in the second to the last picture, since the mock-up was on mobo box and since I only have two hands, I used the back of the screw driver to hold the video card upright, but I think that the screw driver tiled the video card toward the cooler, so I shall test this setup in the case and if need and as suggested use the electrical tape, just hope that tape would not melt, I guess it should not&#8230;
> 
> Misha


You will be fine with the electrical tape. I bought high quality stuff to re-wrap my ingitors on my car. They sat on top of a motor that runs at 200-220F on the regular for over a year and the tape didn't even get brittle. I don't know what the melting point is, but i am guessing really high.


----------



## AMD_Freak

Added Samurai707 & PredatorPie


----------



## AlphaC

Xbitlabs had a comparison to Kraken X40 noise-wise when two Corsair AF140s were placed on the Phanteks

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/nzxt-kraken-x40_8.html#sect0


----------



## X-PREDATOR

dunno if this is ok but welcome to all newcomers to the ph-tc14-pe club.
to the space issue.you can always use 120mm fans instead of 140mm.
i fitted the 140mm stock fans and didnt like this small but to close 4 cumfort gap netween the fanclips and gpu.
if you use 120mm instead then the clips arent forced so wide. ive got a good 2cm gap from my cooler and gpu is in the 1st slot.give it a try and maybe ull be lucky.then no e.tape or wrap whatsoeva is needed on the fan clips.
although some paracord word look like the best if you match the colours of your build.


----------



## Odd1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> Xbitlabs had a comparison to Kraken X40 noise-wise when two Corsair AF140s were placed on the Phanteks


Not sure why they chose the af140s to put on the phanteks for comparison. Yea, they are quiet but they are designed as case fans, not cooler fans. They move a decent amount of air for the noise but they don't really have a lot of static pressure to push through those fins.

There are much better choices to put on the Phanteks even if noise is a concern...

I think the numbers might look a bit different if they had done so.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

if only i had a laser temperature meter instead of a weather thermostat to check my room temps.
reason:
its been showd and proven this cooler is amazing even the given setup has little airflow.i turned my fans all off exc.my gpu
and the idle temps were about 1- 5°c warmer and load was about 5 -10degrees warmer than with fans.
so in theory you dont need the best fans with the best cfm/lowest rpm /static presure.
it will still be giving you great performance


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> if only i had a laser temperature meter instead of a weather thermostat to check my room temps.
> reason:
> its been showd and proven this cooler is amazing even the given setup has little airflow.i turned my fans all off exc.my gpu
> and the idle temps were about 1- 5°c warmer and load was about 5 -10degrees warmer than with fans.
> so in theory you dont need the best fans with the best cfm/lowest rpm /static presure.
> it will still be giving you great performance


I've done similar on mine. Idle was like you, only a few degrees. I put 100% load on cpu and temps were 25c higher than with fans after 30 minutes, but still safe at 73c.

As for our room temp I use cooler intake temp when I test. Simple indoor/outdoor digital thermometers work great and can be had cheap. I twist 15-20cm of stiff insulated wire into the end so I can position sensor where I want it. Makes it easy to know exactly how much the cooler is cooling and also good for figureing out how well case is cooling.


----------



## Joe17150

I am new here so Hello to everyone.I am currently working on a build and installed the PH-TC14PE a couple of days ago.To me its a first for this type of build and cooling.I have probably made mistakes in my choice of case fans but my temps seem good.I am not overclocking right now.

Build

CPU
AMD FX-8350 Vishera 8-Core

Ram
Kingston HyperX 8 GB

Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-990XA-UD3 ATX AMD Motherboard

Video
Radeon HD 6950 Modded

Cooling
PH-TC14PE
All case fans installed

Monitor
samsung Led Monitor S27B350

Power
SILVERSTONE Strider Gold ST85F-G 850W

Case
Corsair Obsidian Series 800D


----------



## doyll

Looks like a job well done Joe!


----------



## Odd1

looks good! Gotta love all that room in the 800d.

Are those af120s the performance or quiet editions? Either way they are great case fans... Plus i think the corsairs are some of the best looking fans around.


----------



## Joe17150

My next work will be cable management and sleeve the wiring red.Here are temps at full CPU load but only a 10 min test on Prime 95.I have to do more tests for longer times but all seem good.To me this cooler performs well.


----------



## Joe17150

The case fans are AF 120 performance edition controlled by my Aerocool 2000.The 140's are Quiet edition.


----------



## LGxStarburst

any owners in here have the AMD kit they are not using. i got this heatsink from a third party and it was not in the package..







PM me if you would be willing to part with the AMD kit thanks guys. once i get it mounted ill post pictures


----------



## Tenchuu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe17150*
> 
> I am new here so Hello to everyone.I am currently working on a build and installed the PH-TC14PE a couple of days ago.To me its a first for this type of build and cooling.I have probably made mistakes in my choice of case fans but my temps seem good.I am not overclocking right now.


not that it made little to any difference in my antec 300 (for me it showed a 1C drop which could be explained by randomness or a better thermal paste application), but have you thought about flipping the towers so that it is venting up since it looks like most of your exhaust is venting up? any reason why to or why not to? is it just personal preference?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

nice work there joe.
the only time in my little experience when a cooler is turned to exhaust to the top
is if you have limited space.yo r actualy pulling hot air from the back of yo gpu then.
so joe dont listen to those who say turn the cooler.the 800d lile yo have it now setup is just right.all yo might wana consider changing is from the stock phateks fans to the ty140/142/143 fans much better cooling and pwm control
unless yo cpu fans r runnin from that aero.2000.
red sleeving! awsome.i hav the exact same plan as soon as i upgrade my psu/gpu end of the month.still tryin to get red paracord in south africa.

again awsome build


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tenchuu*
> 
> not that it made little to any difference in my antec 300 (for me it showed a 1C drop which could be explained by randomness or a better thermal paste application), but have you thought about flipping the towers so that it is venting up since it looks like most of your exhaust is venting up? any reason why to or why not to? is it just personal preference?


I've ran both ways and found no difference in cooler performance but it can change case performance. I had 2c higher cooler intake air temps exhausting back versus exhausting up until I removed rear grill and built a duct from cooler to vent.

Other thing to keep in mind is having enough clearance (35mm) in front of intake fan so it can draw air into cooler.

Joe17150,

Your temps are so cool it doesn't matter but;

How many intake fans do you have? I see 4 exhaust and assume you have 1 bottom & 1 front intakes & front is restricted by filters and HDD cage.. meaning you have over twice as much exhaust pull as intake push. Might try unplugging middle top fan and turning front top fan into an intake. This would flow cool air in from top to feed CPU cooler.

I've see GPU temps go down by removing unused PCI slot covers to let air in or out. Your Accelero cooler it will probably pull cool air in so might want a filter on back.


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LGxStarburst*
> 
> any owners in here have the AMD kit they are not using. i got this heatsink from a third party and it was not in the package..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PM me if you would be willing to part with the AMD kit thanks guys. once i get it mounted ill post pictures


Contact Phanteks Maybe they will send you a free kit


----------



## LGxStarburst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> Contact Phanteks Maybe they will send you a free kit


. I sent them three support requests and finally the mod at their forum stepped in and is taking care of it lol. Thanks though I'm glad somebody bothered to respond


----------



## X-PREDATOR

LGxStarburst
well weres your location.
my kit is still brand new and sealed.
will gladly part with it cause im buyin another phanteks soon for a new build.
if your will to pay for shipping/postal costs its yours.


----------



## A7xConnor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> Xbitlabs had a comparison to Kraken X40 noise-wise when two Corsair AF140s were placed on the Phanteks


Yeah the AF140's doesn't seem to make much sense, I think they recommend something like at least a 3" gap between the AF140's and contact. Should have used the SP140's instead >.>


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Amazon.com: Thermalright TR-X-
Silent-140 140mm Fan Black

i own 4 of these.
and believe me even at full rpm
they totaly redifine the meaning silence i kill you.dam good airflow/silent and works great with fancontrollers.
plus doesnt matter if they r intake or exhaust orientated they move enough air without making noise.


----------



## LGxStarburst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> LGxStarburst
> well weres your location.
> my kit is still brand new and sealed.
> will gladly part with it cause im buyin another phanteks soon for a new build.
> if your will to pay for shipping/postal costs its yours.


PM'd thanks for the offer mate


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A7xConnor*
> 
> Yeah the AF140's doesn't seem to make much sense, I think they recommend something like at least a 3" gap between the AF140's and contact. Should have used the SP140's instead >.>


There's no such thing as SP140 that I know of , there's a AF140 , AF120, and SP120


----------



## A7xConnor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> There's no such thing as SP140 that I know of , there's a AF140 , AF120, and SP120


Oh, could have sworn I've seen 140mm versions online. -Shrugs-

Even so, I'd prefer a 120mm SP over a AF 140 in that situation.


----------



## Tenchuu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I've ran both ways and found no difference in cooler performance but it can change case performance. I had 2c higher cooler intake air temps exhausting back versus exhausting up until I removed rear grill and built a duct from cooler to vent.
> 
> Other thing to keep in mind is having enough clearance (35mm) in front of intake fan so it can draw air into cooler.
> 
> Joe17150,
> 
> Your temps are so cool it doesn't matter but;
> 
> How many intake fans do you have? I see 4 exhaust and assume you have 1 bottom & 1 front intakes & front is restricted by filters and HDD cage.. meaning you have over twice as much exhaust pull as intake push. Might try unplugging middle top fan and turning front top fan into an intake. This would flow cool air in from top to feed CPU cooler.
> 
> I've see GPU temps go down by removing unused PCI slot covers to let air in or out. Your Accelero cooler it will probably pull cool air in so might want a filter on back.


Thanks for the info, i always wondered about that, and my own tests were inconclusive.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

how would 1 go about changing the coolers colour to mixed colours. example making it look like a zebra pattern?


----------



## LGxStarburst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> how would 1 go about changing the coolers colour to mixed colours. example making it look like a zebra pattern?


i dont know if you can predator that stuff is anodized so unless you have a friend who can anodize it for you i dont think it would be possible


----------



## X-PREDATOR

oh well .just a wishfull thaught.just think.a ph14 in black and white or have phanteks make 1 according to users specifications.
or a mod.were u take apart the coolers fins then rebuild it according to your own colour choice.man that would look funky.


----------



## Samurai707

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> oh well .just a wishfull thaught.just think.a ph14 in black and white or have phanteks make 1 according to users specifications.
> or a mod.were u take apart the coolers fins then rebuild it according to your own colour choice.man that would look funky.


Sounds expensive XD


----------



## X-PREDATOR

yeah i know it would be.

()
¿


----------



## noob510

Hello guys, I'm planning to install a third fan to my Phanteks PH-TC14PE. So Can I mount my leftover 120mm case fan to the front of the CPU cooler, notice that the three white plastic strip are already stick to where a third140mm fan should be install in front above the red memory ram slot. Will a 120mm fan plastic part melt when the cooler heats up? Also what splitter cable do i need to run three fan through a 4 pin connector on board cpu fan?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noob510*
> 
> Hello guys, I'm planning to install a third fan to my Phanteks PH-TC14PE. So Can I mount my leftover 120mm case fan to the front of the CPU cooler, notice that the three white plastic strip are already stick to where a third140mm fan should be install in front above the red memory ram slot. Will a 120mm fan plastic part melt when the cooler heats up? Also what splitter cable do i need to run three fan through a 4 pin connector on board cpu fan?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You need to attach your middle fan to the front tower, not the back tower. As it is you have push/pull on back tower. Normal is pull/pull; one on each tower.

Adding a 3rd fan only changes temps -1c and that's using 3 stock cooler fans. Using a 120mm case fan probably won't even help by 1c.

Don't worry about the strips on cooler. They are for vibration, not heat.. and CPU / cooler never get hot enough to melt plastic.


----------



## doyll

double post


----------



## Samurai707

I thought normal was push/push the two stock?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> I thought normal was push/push the two stock?


Indeed. Push / push is most common. My bad. When RAM is too tall for push / push people normally use pull / pull, which I assume is why noob510 didn't do push / push.


----------



## LGxStarburst

so i didnt have my brackets before but i do now im happy its installed in my case and ready to go . awesome


----------



## noob510

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You need to attach your middle fan to the front tower, not the back tower. As it is you have push/pull on back tower. Normal is pull/pull; one on each tower.
> 
> Adding a 3rd fan only changes temps -1c and that's using 3 stock cooler fans. Using a 120mm case fan probably won't even help by 1c.
> 
> Don't worry about the strips on cooler. They are for vibration, not heat.. and CPU / cooler never get hot enough to melt plastic.


I am fairly new to Overclock and this is my first PC build that's why my fan configuration are a little odd lol. From what you said If i understand correctly,my middle fan should be front to push hot air to the back, then the existing white 140mm back fan should be in the middle pulling the heat from the first cooler and then pushing it to the back exhaust case fan?

Also i have two top case fan working as exhaust above CPU cooler, so does these need to be change to drawn in cool air to the cooler?

As for my GPU card, there is an extra 120 fan I have left over, should I instal a side fan to work as an intake air to the GPU or working as an exhaust?

Note I have one white LED 140mm fan working as intake in front front of my hard disk and my ram are not tall a third fan can be install in front of the cooler no problem.

Please help me achieve optimal cooling performance for my case.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noob510*
> 
> I am fairly new to Overclock and this is my first PC build that's why my fan configuration are a little odd lol. From what you said If i understand correctly,my middle fan should be front to push hot air to the back, then the existing white 140mm back fan should be in the middle pulling the heat from the first cooler and then pushing it to the back exhaust case fan?
> 
> Also i have two top case fan working as exhaust above CPU cooler, so does these need to be change to drawn in cool air to the cooler?
> 
> As for my GPU card, there is an extra 120 fan I have left over, should I instal a side fan to work as an intake air to the GPU or working as an exhaust?
> 
> Note I have one white LED 140mm fan working as intake in front front of my hard disk and my ram are not tall a third fan can be install in front of the cooler no problem.
> 
> Please help me achieve optimal cooling performance for my case.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


*What I meant was you have 2 fans on one tower. If you can move your back fan to the front than that is the best fan position.
*Hard to say with the top fans. The back top fan exhaust for sure. Front may work better as intake.. or not. Only way to know is to test by running full CPU load and see what temps you get.
*Same with the side fan. What GPU do you have?


----------



## noob510

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> *What I meant was you have 2 fans on one tower. If you can move your back fan to the front than that is the best fan position.
> *Hard to say with the top fans. The back top fan exhaust for sure. Front may work better as intake.. or not. Only way to know is to test by running full CPU load and see what temps you get.
> *Same with the side fan. What GPU do you have?


My GPU is Asus Gtx 660 TI http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121656&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID= .Alright I will do what you suggest and do some bench to see if cooling improve or not. Going to do it after work.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

you can also try 3 * 120mm fans instead of what you want originaly.
case airflow - always front to back or bottom to top if you gota silverstone case(?raven? tj?)
to giv yo an idea- my setup:
front intake -1*200mm + 2*120mm in 5.25 bays
bottom intake 140mm
side intake 2*140mm
cpu cooler 2*120mm
rear exhaust 140mm (phanteks fan)
top exhaust 1*200mm

all my fans run @low rpm 900 to 1300rpm
from my f.controller except my cpu/gpu fans.
and the highest temps ive seen while gaming :cpu 50 gpu 56

like doyll said only way ur gna now is test for your self to see what works best for you


----------



## ITaoI

Are the phanteks suppose to have 1 crooked tower? From above i can see they are not aligned horizontally. There are also some bent fins in the middle of the cooler from the mounting box bracket box
do 3 bent fins affect the cooling much? I'm asking due to the shipping cost to ship it back.

Thank you


----------



## doyll

One tower should not be crooked and fins should not be bent.


----------



## savagepagan

I just got two ty-143 fans. If power draw of each is .60 amps, is it safe to put both on a pwm splitter and connect then to the cpu header or is that just too much of a power draw(1.20 total amps)?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> I just got two ty-143 fans. If power draw of each is .60 amps, is it safe to put both on a pwm splitter and connect then to the cpu header or is that just too much of a power draw(1.20 total amps)?


I suggest using a PWM splitter with molex/sata PSU power connector
http://www.akasa.co.uk/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Cables&type_sub=Fan%20Cable%20Adapters&model=AK-CB002

The wiring is simple:


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I suggest using a PWM splitter with molex/sata PSU power connector
> http://www.akasa.co.uk/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Cables&type_sub=Fan%20Cable%20Adapters&model=AK-CB002
> 
> The wiring is simple:


What is the most in amps you would recommend attaching to a mobo fan header? Not over 0.80 amps?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> What is the most in amps you would recommend attaching to a mobo fan header? Not over 0.80 amps?


It varies with motherboard and it's sometimes hard to find what they are rated for. Most I've pushed is 0.60amps.


----------



## Roadsama

Rebuilt my rig a few weeks back and ordered a Phantek cooler for it, I am mightily pleased with it's performance this far.
application for this superb club here.


But I am thinking of changing to a Fractal Design R4, anyone know if it will fit in and I can actually get a side fan in? or is that a lost case?


----------



## ZeratulR

nice


----------



## noob510

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I suggest using a PWM splitter with molex/sata PSU power connector
> http://www.akasa.co.uk/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Cables&type_sub=Fan%20Cable%20Adapters&model=AK-CB002
> 
> The wiring is simple:


I found a cheaper pwm Splitter at Newegg http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119248. But my main concern is does it allow me to run my phanteks and two of my case fan at the same rpm through CPU Fan header on my mother board? There are mixed review on Newegg so I couldn't tell.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noob510*
> 
> ]
> 
> I found a cheaper pwm Splitter at Newegg http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119248. But my main concern is does it allow me to run my phanteks and two of my case fan at the same rpm through CPU Fan header on my mother board? There are mixed review on Newegg so I couldn't tell.


You are running 2x TY-143 on Phanteks cooler and what to run 2 case fans as well?

The splitter you linked to is for 3 fans. You can daisy chain 2 of these splitters by plugging one into the other master.


----------



## noob510

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You are running 2x TY-143 on Phanteks cooler and what to run 2 case fans as well?
> 
> The splitter you linked to is for 3 fans. You can daisy chain 2 of these splitters by plugging one into the other master.


I wanted my Exhaust fan to ramp up the rpm when ever the phanteks ramps up so that the exhaust fan will synchronize with CPU Load. This Splitter [http://www.akasa.co.uk/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Cables&type_sub=Fan%20Cable%20Adapters&model=AK-CB002
] you mention does the job but its kind of pricy so I was wondering if the one I found at new egg http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119248 does the same thing.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noob510*
> 
> I wanted my Exhaust fan to ramp up the rpm when ever the phanteks ramps up so that the exhaust fan will synchronize with CPU Load. This Splitter [http://www.akasa.co.uk/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Cables&type_sub=Fan%20Cable%20Adapters&model=AK-CB002
> ] you mention does the job but its kind of pricy so I was wondering if the one I found at new egg http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119248 does the same thing.


Yes it will work. I use similar for all my case fans so they ramp up in sync with cooler fans.


----------



## neofury

I'm finally an owner and wow what a great cooler


----------



## noob510

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yes it will work. I use similar for all my case fans so they ramp up in sync with cooler fans.


Really thats awesome. Thank you for clarification.


----------



## Chelate

Quote:


> Rebuilt my rig a few weeks back and ordered a Phantek cooler for it, I am mightily pleased with it's performance this far.
> application for this superb club here.
> 
> But I am thinking of changing to a Fractal Design R4, anyone know if it will fit in and I can actually get a side fan in? or is that a lost case?


What Roadsama said. Will the PH-TC14PE fit in the Fractal Define R4? With other (side, etc.) fans?


----------



## Zboy

got my free phanteks fan recently - completely forgot about that thing







what type of adapter would i need to run 3x phanteks fans off the cpu header? i was thinking i'd just need the phanteks pwm adapter + a new 3x 3pin splitter - but i'm not sure if i would need more power or some other special wires


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zboy*
> 
> got my free phanteks fan recently - completely forgot about that thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what type of adapter would i need to run 3x phanteks fans off the cpu header? i was thinking i'd just need the phanteks pwm adapter + a new 3x 3pin splitter - but i'm not sure if i would need more power or some other special wires


Get another Y splitter and plug it into Y splitter you are using on Phanteks PWM adapter. Plug it into the side of Y splitter with 2 wires (no rpm wire).


----------



## Zboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Zboy*
> 
> got my free phanteks fan recently - completely forgot about that thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what type of adapter would i need to run 3x phanteks fans off the cpu header? i was thinking i'd just need the phanteks pwm adapter + a new 3x 3pin splitter - but i'm not sure if i would need more power or some other special wires
> 
> 
> 
> Get another Y splitter and plug it into Y splitter you are using on Phanteks PWM adapter. Plug it into the side of Y splitter with 2 wires (no rpm wire).
Click to expand...

o.o why wouldn't i just use a 3 x 3pin splitter (assuming that will work)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zboy*
> 
> o.o why wouldn't i just use a 3 x 3pin splitter (assuming that will work)


You can but the normal 3pin fan splitter are 2 fan and 2x 2 fan splitters run 3 fans.


----------



## Zboy

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13978/cab-494/Bitfenix_Alchemy_Multisleeve_3-Pin_to_3x_3-Pin_Y_Cable_Splitter_-_60cm_-_White_BFA-MSC-3F33F60WK-RP.html?tl=g47c251s635#blank

anything wrong with that? i don't remember if the pwm adapter's female end was 3 or 4 pin


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zboy*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13978/cab-494/Bitfenix_Alchemy_Multisleeve_3-Pin_to_3x_3-Pin_Y_Cable_Splitter_-_60cm_-_White_BFA-MSC-3F33F60WK-RP.html?tl=g47c251s635#blank
> 
> anything wrong with that? i don't remember if the pwm adapter's female end was 3 or 4 pin


That will work. Way more expensive. The fan leads are long enough to read behind motherboard tray to the splitter for clean cable management so no reason for fancy splitter.


----------



## Zboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Zboy*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13978/cab-494/Bitfenix_Alchemy_Multisleeve_3-Pin_to_3x_3-Pin_Y_Cable_Splitter_-_60cm_-_White_BFA-MSC-3F33F60WK-RP.html?tl=g47c251s635#blank
> 
> anything wrong with that? i don't remember if the pwm adapter's female end was 3 or 4 pin
> 
> 
> 
> That will work. Way more expensive. The fan leads are long enough to read behind motherboard tray to the splitter for clean cable management so no reason for fancy splitter.
Click to expand...

i may or may not buy a 3 x 3 pin. depends on how i feel lol. i do prefer to minimize things to keep tidy and reduce any possible source of error though - even if it is just a wire


----------



## pooter

I recently picked up a Phanteks cooler, but wanted to swap the stock fans out. I've heard good things about it, but I wanted true PWM fans on there, not just 3pin fans hooked up to a 3to4pin adapter, and I'm a bit of a Noctua fanboy so I picked up the Noctua NF-A15 PWM to try out on the heatsink. See a lot of Thermalright TY fans swapped in but haven't heard much of Noctuas in the Phanteks so I figured why not.

Using Noctua "Anti-Vibration mounts" provided with the fan and stock Phanteks fan clips, mounts perfectly just like stock:


The fans are exactly the same height, the mount holes are exactly in the same place.


I heard people do zipties or something similar to hold Thermalright TY fans to the Phantek heatsink, but the anti-vibration mounts that Noctua provides with the fans work perfectly with the stock phanteks clips. Instead of hooking into the hole of the stock hole mount, you basically hook onto the rubber Noctua mount.




I always wondered about those side blocky sections on the NF-A15 but I realize now that because they're the soft rubbery anti-vibration, they press up again the heatsink so they perform the same function as the adhesive anti-vibration strips that Phanteks provide.


Not even sure if I need to stick the center anti-vibration strip since the Noctua fan's side anti-vibration mounts provide a slight clearance between the fan and heatsink in the center.


Oh and in case you were wondering.. fits in center no problem too... again same size as stock Phanteks fan so didn't think it'd be an issue anyways.


----------



## neXen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pooter*
> 
> I recently picked up a Phanteks cooler, but wanted to swap the stock fans out. I've heard good things about it, but I wanted true PWM fans on there, not just 3pin fans hooked up to a 3to4pin adapter, and I'm a bit of a Noctua fanboy so I picked up the Noctua NF-A15 PWM to try out on the heatsink. See a lot of Thermalright TY fans swapped in but haven't heard much of Noctuas in the Phanteks so I figured why not.


Is there a consensus on the best fans for this cooler?

Is it still the TY 140s?

What would the difference in temps be between 3x stock phantek fans vs 3x TY-140s? or whatever the best fan is?


----------



## Odd1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neXen*
> 
> Is there a consensus on the best fans for this cooler?
> 
> Is it still the TY 140s?
> 
> What would the difference in temps be between 3x stock phantek fans vs 3x TY-140s? or whatever the best fan is?


Sorry to all of those who have waited for me to finish my testing of the various fans. I've had a couple of setbacks during the process & have had to start over from the beginning and retest everything a couple of times. I'm in the process of writing everything up...

neXen, to answer your question, the TY-140s are probably not the best choice in terms of performance for this cooler.

I'll leave it at that for now but you can pm me if you are under the gun and need to know my results to make a purchase...


----------



## pooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neXen*
> 
> Is there a consensus on the best fans for this cooler?
> 
> Is it still the TY 140s?
> 
> What would the difference in temps be between 3x stock phantek fans vs 3x TY-140s? or whatever the best fan is?


I think you'd need to define what's "best" for the specific use case. If you're talking max performance, you can get much higher RPM and output fans to stick in there, but obviously more noise. Those aren't TY-140's though, they're Noctua NF-A15 PWM fans. Very similar in sizing and mount hole arrangement and they seemed to review slightly better than the TY=140s, but you pay a big price premium for them, close to almost $10 difference at some places so it'll probably not win any best value awards, but my other case fans are Noctua and I wanted to keep it consistent.


----------



## neXen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pooter*
> 
> I think you'd need to define what's "best" for the specific use case. If you're talking max performance, you can get much higher RPM and output fans to stick in there, but obviously more noise. Those aren't TY-140's though, they're Noctua NF-A15 PWM fans. Very similar in sizing and mount hole arrangement and they seemed to review slightly better than the TY=140s, but you pay a big price premium for them, close to almost $10 difference at some places so it'll probably not win any best value awards, but my other case fans are Noctua and I wanted to keep it consistent.


My new case is the corsair C70 and i will be replacing the window to a solid panel.

I am looking to purchase a PH-TC14PE and what option would net me the best preformance

Stock fans + 1 additional stock fan
3x TY-140/147s
3x Noctua NF-15s
3x any fan

I would only want to replace the stock fans if they would improve temps by 3+ degrees

*Note: i realize higher RPM fans such as the TY-143s will preform better than stock, but the DBA increase is far too much for my liking.
The lower the DBA the better but anything less than 35 i would consider


----------



## pooter

Well according to this review where they swapped the stock fans to Thermalright TY-140s, they did notice a slight improvement...

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/phanteks-ph-tc14pe_5.html

but I dunno replacing all those fans for a measly few degrees which imo is within margin of error, not sure if it's worth it based on performance/value. On the brightside, they might be quieter and you get true PWM fans so you don't mess with that adapter. Think there was another thread here where someone had swapped in even TY-143s and it didn't have much improvement over stock either.

Have to be honest you're almost better off looking at your case airflow in general to get bigger improvements for temps that swapping those heatsink fans.

Maybe post here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1041926/how-to-decide-on-a-case-for-air-cooling-warning-pics with a diagram of how your airflow is set up now and see what the fine folks there say.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

nexen:
heres an alternative idea:
get 1 4pin fan for exhaust of case - hook this up on the cpu fan header
keep stock fans - hook them up to a fancontroller so u can manualy change speed for silence vs performance and you dont need to fiddle with bios or pwm adapters
any decent fan with above 50cfm rating
and low rpm will work just fine
go with whats affordable and suits your style
if you want silence+perf+looks then look for the cougar fans or the ty140/143/147
and were eva yo buy ask for them to get matching colour for your cooler


----------



## X-PREDATOR

+benefit of fancontroller is you can get almost full control of all the case fans too
it all comes down to the overall look/style you prefer and how patient/impatient yo are with building a pc : small things like decent cable management can make things not just easier/tidy but improve airflow alot
luckily the c70 is a great case airflow and cable m. wise
like i say its up to you if it was me
i would want my setup to look better than
all the hottest woman in da world combine inside outside


----------



## Jamar2013

TY-143 !


----------



## neofury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamar2013*
> 
> TY-143 !


Speaking of TY-143, I finally got some pics of my build for the club















Here you can see my terrible cable management skills lol.


----------



## pooter

^ Lol very nice, how are the temps and sound difference from stock? Also the OCD side of me compels me to notice that all 3 fans are rotated differently lol.


----------



## neofury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pooter*
> 
> ^ Lol very nice, how are the temps and sound difference from stock? Also the OCD side of me compels me to notice that all 3 fans are rotated differently lol.


Yeah and the wire being on one side too LOL.

I never used the stock fans so can't compare, I went for the best possible air cooling I could get right off the bat once my 212+ was hitting massive walls. The difference between the 212+ and this at 4.7ghz 1.255v stable was 10~ degrees.

Then I started trying to push 4.8ghz at 1.3v+ but I was getting as high as 96c even with the phanteks and the two ty-143's. I re-seated and used AS5 instead of the phanteks TIM, and I also tinted the phanteks block.

Thus far in the same amount of time, I'm at 88c. Maybe if I'm lucky after curing it'll be 85c, but I haven't tried lowering the vcore much yet, just took an arbitrary number like 1.35v With Ultra LLC it goes way up to 1.368ish, so I may be able to lower it a bit and gain better temps, or if I'm lucky try 4.9ghz









Once I have a stable prime95 run for 12 hours, I'll try reducing it.

Edit: Forgot to mention, it's loud, and I sit like 10ft away from it









I have the fans set to 75% if the temps are below 45c tho, and its pretty quiet during those periods, but when I run prime it goes to 100% and is loud.


----------



## doyll

TY-140 (and TY-143 at same rpm) cool slightly better and are quieter than stock Phanteks fans.

I found the new PH-F140HP performs better than old PH-F140TS and is equal to TY-140.
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page4.html

Here in UK the TY-147 can be bought for £5.87 and TY-143 for £8.40.

TY-147 is same fan as TY-140 just different colors.


----------



## doodie

I was just wondering if this cooler would fit in a zalman z9 plus case

Thanks!


----------



## neofury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doodie*
> 
> I was just wondering if this cooler would fit in a zalman z9 plus case
> 
> Thanks!


According to the Phanteks website, you would need 171mm of clearance with the fans on. You'd also need to worry about your ram, if it isn't low profile, the heat sink won't fit.

I'm not very familiar with this case, I tried finding out the clearance size but couldn't. Hopefully somebody else knows.

Supposedly this case is 207mm wide, but I don't know how many of that is taken up by the side panel fan, behind the mobo and the mobo spacing.

I'd say it would be a tight fit but do-able, but don't get mad if I'm wrong









See this thread also: http://www.overclock.net/t/1263902/will-this-cooler-fit

The D14 is also a huge cooler, it may give you a better idea of whether or not it will fit. I'm leaning towards yes.


----------



## doyll

TC14PE on X58A-UD5 is
173mm from motherboard to top of cooler with fans
165mm from top of cpu to top of cooler with fans

Motherboard to top of CPU is 7-8mm 8mm + 160mm cooler = 168mm + fans 5mm above top of cooler = 173mm.

The clearance height is dependent on how tall your RAM is under intake fan. On mine RAM is 33mm + 140mm fan = 173mm total.

If you don't use the stock crossbar middle thumbscrew you can mount middle fan flush with top of cooler.


----------



## doodie

Thanks for the response guys, I know the D14 fits as people have posted pictures and it looks tight. The ram i have are the kingston hyperx genesis so ram clearance shouldn't be an issue. Hopefully it fits into my case since the D14 is so ugly.


----------



## doyll

NH-D14 and TC14PE are very close to same size:
Quote:


> D14 . . . .= . . . . 6x 6mm pipes 140x130x160mm 140x158x160mm w/ fans
> TC14 . . . .= . . . 5x 8mm pipes 140x134x160mm 140x159x171mm w/ fans


Like I said, middle fan can easily be lowered to be flush with top of cooler. Front fan all depends on how tall your RAM is.. for both NH-D14 w/ 120mm fan and TC14PE w/ 140mm fan over ram.


----------



## theoryzero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> TY-140 (and TY-143 at same rpm) cool slightly better and are quieter than stock Phanteks fans.
> 
> I found the new PH-F140HP performs better than old PH-F140TS and is equal to TY-140.
> http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page4.html


Where did you find the PH-F140HP? I can't find them anywhere and not even Phanteks site mentions them.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theoryzero*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> TY-140 (and TY-143 at same rpm) cool slightly better and are quieter than stock Phanteks fans.
> 
> I found the new PH-F140HP performs better than old PH-F140TS and is equal to TY-140.
> http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page4.html
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you find the PH-F140HP? I can't find them anywhere and not even Phanteks site mentions them.
Click to expand...

The power spec in above link is wrong. Their sticker says 0.2amp.. but Phanteks website says 0.24amp / 2.8w.. but 0.24a =2.88w









Mine came on new model number PH-TC14PE_BK; UPC code 886523000174
http://www.phanteks.com/PH-TC14PE.html


----------



## duhanus

will this be a good overclocker?

Cause idk what to buy the phanteks14pe or the kraken x60


----------



## X-PREDATOR

duhanus:

go for the phanteks :
1)costs more or less the same
2) easier to install
3)no risk of pump failure /noise- since the beginning of all in 1 liquid coolers theres been a % of issues.
4) long term more relaible.


----------



## duhanus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> duhanus:
> 
> go for the phanteks :
> 1)costs more or less the same
> 2) easier to install
> 3)no risk of pump failure /noise- since the beginning of all in 1 liquid coolers theres been a % of issues.
> 4) long term more relaible.


yes but what cools better for overclocking


----------



## duhanus

will the noctua a15 fit them in the xl r2? will it block the gpx card


----------



## iDuskFang

Will the "Phanteks PH-TC14PE" fit over Ripjaws X RAM? I have Sabertooth X79 MOB. So far my Thermaltake FRIO covers the 2 closest RAM slots to my CPU but luckily the 4x RAM sticks work in the way of not having to have them in either of those two. Any wider and I know it would hit the ram cause it definitely won't clear above it. Also my FRIO is about 1mm away height wise from not hitting the case panel but hitting the side 200mm fan.

Can someone help me out? Thoughts?

Thank you very much.


----------



## iDuskFang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iDuskFang*
> 
> Will the "Phanteks PH-TC14PE" fit over Ripjaws X RAM? I have Sabertooth X79 MOB. So far my Thermaltake FRIO covers the 2 closest RAM slots to my CPU but luckily the 4x RAM sticks work in the way of not having to have them in either of those two. Any wider and I know it would hit the ram cause it definitely won't clear above it. Also my FRIO is about 1mm away height wise from not hitting the case panel but hitting the side 200mm fan.
> 
> Can someone help me out? Thoughts?
> 
> Thank you very much.


Nevermind I see it will fit over it in the pictures. But you think it will hit my 200mm side panel fan on a Thermaltake Chaser MK-I? Does it sit higher than a FRIO? Like more upwards on the motherboard. Cause if it's higher up than it shouldn't hit the fan and I know won't reach. Not the 120mm fans themselves but the black part with the red piping that has the TT logo is literally like 1mm from hitting the side fan it's so perfect fit. But I'm getting new CPU cooler and looking at this one.


----------



## doyll

Thermaltake Frio 139 x 98 x 165mm (W x D x H)
Phanteks TC14PE 134 x 140 x 160mm (LxWxH) without fans. Fans add 5mm

If your front 120mm fan is 5mm from side cover a 140mm fan will be 15mm too big. Can you put the front fan on back of cooler so they are pull / pull instead of push / push?


----------



## matt1886

Just bought a Phanteks PH-TC14PE should i use the included past or stick with arctic silver 5? which is better.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matt1886*
> 
> Just bought a Phanteks PH-TC14PE should i use the included past or stick with arctic silver 5? which is better.


Use whichever you want. Both perform very well.


----------



## duhanus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thermaltake Frio 139 x 98 x 165mm (W x D x H)
> Phanteks TC14PE 134 x 140 x 160mm (LxWxH) without fans. Fans add 5mm
> 
> If your front 120mm fan is 5mm from side cover a 140mm fan will be 15mm too big. Can you put the front fan on back of cooler so they are pull / pull instead of push / push?


Hi, im getting the phanteks14pe, can 2 noctua a15, will it fit on the phanteks cause in linus vids it fit on the silverarrow, im also getting the G SKILL ARES(i believe is low profile and that is good?)

Also im getting the gtx 780, will the 2 or 3 fans of noctua fit on the phanteks and not get in the way of the gpx card or ram?

CAuse in the future i might get another noctua a15 fan therefore i have 3 fans on the phanteks.

Im getting the XL r2 case


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duhanus*
> 
> Hi, im getting the phanteks14pe, can 2 noctua a15, will it fit on the phanteks cause in linus vids it fit on the silverarrow, im also getting the G SKILL ARES(i believe is low profile and that is good?)
> 
> Also im getting the gtx 780, will the 2 or 3 fans of noctua fit on the phanteks and not get in the way of the gpx card or ram?
> 
> CAuse in the future i might get another noctua a15 fan therefore i have 3 fans on the phanteks.
> 
> Im getting the XL r2 case


Define XL R2 supports up to 170mm tall coolers so no problems. Your G.Skill Ares is 32mm so it will be fine too.

I use Thermalright TY-143, TY-147 and TY-140 fans and like them. Have not tried Noctua A15 but they should be fine.


----------



## pooter

If you can use the stock Phanteks fans, you can fit the Thermalright fans and the NF-A15 PWM fans. I posted a crapton of pics a few pages back already for the Noctuas.


----------



## duhanus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Define XL R2 supports up to 170mm tall coolers so no problems. Your G.Skill Ares is 32mm so it will be fine too.
> 
> I use Thermalright TY-143, TY-147 and TY-140 fans and like them. Have not tried Noctua A15 but they should be fine.


so it will work when using 3 NOCTUA a15 fans on the phanteks? will it block the way of the graphics card


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duhanus*
> 
> so it will work when using 3 NOCTUA a15 fans on the phanteks? will it block the way of the graphics card


What slot is your GPU slot? 6th from the bottom is usually the top most used. Often 7th slot does not exist on these motherboards.


----------



## duhanus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What slot is your GPU slot? 6th from the bottom is usually the top most used. Often 7th slot does not exist on these motherboards.


i didnt get it yet im just getting all my parts, im getting the asus saertooth gen 3 amd3+


----------



## duhanus

also which gtx 780 is the best, it is the EVGA superclocked 780 with 2 fans on it right?


----------



## duhanus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Define XL R2 supports up to 170mm tall coolers so no problems. Your G.Skill Ares is 32mm so it will be fine too.
> 
> I use Thermalright TY-143, TY-147 and TY-140 fans and like them. Have not tried Noctua A15 but they should be fine.


but will the 3 NOctua a15 fit on the phanteks? noctua a15 are 150mm


----------



## pooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duhanus*
> 
> but will the 3 NOctua a15 fit on the phanteks? noctua a15 are 150mm


They are only 150mm width. The height is the same 140mm frame. Don't believe us? Look at the pics I posted several pages back. I installed them and measured them against the stock phanteks myself. Again if you are able to fit the stock Phanteks fans, you will have no issues with the Noctua one because they are essentially the same size, same mounting holes and you can even use the Phanteks fan clips on the noctua fans if you use the anti-vibration mounts included with the fans. Your question has been answered definitively multiple times already.

I think you're confused thinking the Noctua is a 150mm blade fan which it is not.

http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=140mm_frame_types


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duhanus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Define XL R2 supports up to 170mm tall coolers so no problems. Your G.Skill Ares is 32mm so it will be fine too.
> 
> I use Thermalright TY-143, TY-147 and TY-140 fans and like them. Have not tried Noctua A15 but they should be fine.
> 
> 
> 
> but will the 3 NOctua a15 fit on the phanteks? noctua a15 are 150mm
Click to expand...

Look at images in post #1073


----------



## duhanus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pooter*
> 
> They are only 150mm width. The height is the same 140mm frame. Don't believe us? Look at the pics I posted several pages back. I installed them and measured them against the stock phanteks myself. Again if you are able to fit the stock Phanteks fans, you will have no issues with the Noctua one because they are essentially the same size, same mounting holes and you can even use the Phanteks fan clips on the noctua fans if you use the anti-vibration mounts included with the fans. Your question has been answered definitively multiple times already.
> 
> I think you're confused thinking the Noctua is a 150mm blade fan which it is not.
> 
> http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=140mm_frame_types


'

thanks, but should i use the anti vibration or that will slow done my rpm? i heard that noctua included low noise adapter etc should i use that or no if i wanted the highest performance and best temps.

Also if i get 2 NOctua a15 fans where do i put them? in the right and middle or right or left etc?
and if i get 3 i put in the right,left,middle right how about 2?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *duhanus*
> 
> thanks, but should i use the anti vibration or that will slow done my rpm? i heard that noctua included low noise adapter etc should i use that or no if i wanted the highest performance and best temps.
> 
> Also if i get 2 NOctua a15 fans where do i put them? in the right and middle or right or left etc?
> and if i get 3 i put in the right,left,middle right how about 2?
> 
> but will the 3 NOctua a15 fit on the phanteks? noctua a15 are 150mm
> 
> 
> 
> Look at images in post #1073
Click to expand...

Mount 2 fans like they are in pictures in post #1073; middle and front.


----------



## pooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duhanus*
> 
> '
> 
> thanks, but should i use the anti vibration or that will slow done my rpm? i heard that noctua included low noise adapter etc should i use that or no if i wanted the highest performance and best temps.
> 
> Also if i get 2 NOctua a15 fans where do i put them? in the right and middle or right or left etc?
> and if i get 3 i put in the right,left,middle right how about 2?


The anti-vibration mount that I mentioned is the brown rubber piece that Noctua provides to mount instead of using a screw or something similar. I only tried it out in case people were wondering if there was another option besides doing a zip tie trick to mount. This is only to let your fan clips hold onto the fan itself so has nothing to do with rpm. Up to you whether you want to use low noise adapter (if you do, it will lower your max rpm).

I've included a picture of using the rubber Noctua anti-vibration mount vs. the stock Phanteks plastic fan mount (not attached). It's basically the same thing. I also stuck the black Phanteks mount into the Noctua fan hole and it clipped in just fine so it's up to you what you want to use. The fans are inherently pressed tight against the heatsink so I doubt this would be a big source of vibration or noise in either case. In fact if you look at how Noctua clips onto their fans on the NH-D14, they just clip directly into the fan hole without any kind of mount piece so go figure. You get the black Phanteks fan mounts with the heatsink and if you buy the Noctua ones, you'll also get the anti-vibration fan mounts included with those so take your pick lol.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

matt1886:
both thermal pastes yo mentioned are good only diff is texture but temps wise so close it cms down to personal prefrence.

duhanus: both are good for overclocking
but my money will go towards a phanteks each time.its just that freakin good.
yes the noctuas will fit.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i wish to complement doyll on his excelent advise in this thread aspecialy with fan choices and pwm adapter stuff.
i just removed my phanteks fans completely from my setup.yes they are good-good airflo low noise but-my 140mm silent x-
are as silent as a deadman.i had a real eritating noise and removed it now my setups dead quiet cool.

ordering another phanteks soon black or blue this time.


----------



## duhanus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Mount 2 fans like they are in pictures in post #1073; middle and front.


middle and front wth?

theres only left,middle and right


----------



## duhanus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pooter*
> 
> The anti-vibration mount that I mentioned is the brown rubber piece that Noctua provides to mount instead of using a screw or something similar. I only tried it out in case people were wondering if there was another option besides doing a zip tie trick to mount. This is only to let your fan clips hold onto the fan itself so has nothing to do with rpm. Up to you whether you want to use low noise adapter (if you do, it will lower your max rpm).
> 
> I've included a picture of using the rubber Noctua anti-vibration mount vs. the stock Phanteks plastic fan mount (not attached). It's basically the same thing. I also stuck the black Phanteks mount into the Noctua fan hole and it clipped in just fine so it's up to you what you want to use. The fans are inherently pressed tight against the heatsink so I doubt this would be a big source of vibration or noise in either case. In fact if you look at how Noctua clips onto their fans on the NH-D14, they just clip directly into the fan hole without any kind of mount piece so go figure. You get the black Phanteks fan mounts with the heatsink and if you buy the Noctua ones, you'll also get the anti-vibration fan mounts included with those so take your pick lol.


so it be no difference if i use noctua fan mounts or phanteks fan mounts? ill just use the noctua fan mounts then if there is no difference in performance?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duhanus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Mount 2 fans like they are in pictures in post #1073; middle and front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> middle and front wth?
> 
> theres only left,middle and right
Click to expand...

It's really not hard to understand.
The back of case is the left.. the back of motherboard where the I/O panel is.
The front of case is the right.. the front is what shows when you set you case in place.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duhanus*
> 
> so it be no difference if i use noctua fan mounts or phanteks fan mounts? ill just use the noctua fan mounts then if there is no difference in performance?


You are over-thinking this. It is not complicated. Use whichever mounting pins, vibration pads, etc. that you want. It really doesn't make a difference.. or so little you will never know it


----------



## duhanus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> It's really not hard to understand.
> The back of case is the left.. the back of motherboard where the I/O panel is.
> The front of case is the right.. the front is what shows when you set you case in place.
> You are over-thinking this. It is not complicated. Use whichever mounting pins, vibration pads, etc. that you want. It really doesn't make a difference.. or so little you will never know it


ok, is it okay if i put it in the back?,

will it be also okay if i mounted 3 A15?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duhanus*
> 
> ok, is it okay if i put it in the back?,
> 
> will it be also okay if i mounted 3 A15?


It will be fine on the back or on the front.. 2 fans or 3 fans. Just build it.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

dude :duhanus
what gives?
youve got two towers on the phanteks;
put the fans on from front to back:
fan>tower>fan>tower>fan

3 fans are overkill cause the rear exhaust fan of the case already acts as a third and as a exhuaust fan.


----------



## Zboy

has anyone lapped this cooler yet? i noticed that the base of mine doesn't have a smooth finish, and that it's even convex

i'm already playing around with the idea of deliding, so i thought that i might as well see what this could do too


----------



## X-PREDATOR

to be honest only time lapping is gna do ya good is if yo hav money to waste on a new cooler.yur better of contacting phanteks (or the place of purchase) for rma.best of luck to ya whateva the outcum....O


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zboy*
> 
> has anyone lapped this cooler yet? i noticed that the base of mine doesn't have a smooth finish, and that it's even convex
> 
> i'm already playing around with the idea of deliding, so i thought that i might as well see what this could do too


Can you define "doesn't have a smooth finish"... because normal finish is ground to a near-mirror finish.

If you mean it is curved slightly being higher in the middle that is by design to put maximum pressure on the center area which is where the CPU processor is.


----------



## neofury

Mine was finished fine on the bottom. I tinted it just to see what would happen though. The way I see it unless it's a defect, you really don't need to lap.


----------



## Zboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Zboy*
> 
> has anyone lapped this cooler yet? i noticed that the base of mine doesn't have a smooth finish, and that it's even convex
> 
> i'm already playing around with the idea of deliding, so i thought that i might as well see what this could do too
> 
> 
> 
> Can you define "doesn't have a smooth finish"... because normal finish is ground to a near-mirror finish.
> 
> If you mean it is curved slightly being higher in the middle that is by design to put maximum pressure on the center area which is where the CPU processor is.
Click to expand...

the base has these very thin and shallow angular ridges that are parallel to each other, with a mm or a fraction of a mm of space between them. it's definitely not a smooth finish because i have to dig in to those in order the clean the base thoroughly. if i try to clean it like how i would clean the top of an ihs, residue would be left over

i saw the same angular ridges in some random unboxing of another cpu cooler, and yeah i remember reading about that convex shape being intentional, but i didn't remember if it was about this cooler or some other one

i'm not even sure if these have a negative impact on its cooling ability, but like i said, i'm thinking about deliding so i may as well look into this too

here we go

http://www.silentpcreview.com/files/images/phanteks-tc14pe/07.jpg

you can see the arcs on this but i'm pretty sure that base is still smoother than the one i have. maybe i just have bad lighting or i wasn't paying enough attention, but i never noticed a near mirror finish on mine


----------



## X-PREDATOR

neofury
how dd yo tint it?
ive seen some cleaning/silver tint from antec listed for cleaning purposes.
what dd yo use? paste?


----------



## neofury

It was my first time ever tinting, but I used AS5. I didn't realize there's an actual tinting product out there. I just read about it on here and tried it out. My AS5 still hasn't cured 100% yet, so it's tough to tell if it has done anything. Thus far, it's been equivalent to the stock phanteks goop without a tint. So nothing too serious thus far.

PS I ordered my CLP (U was just way overpriced for Canada) and some of that Arctic cleaning stuff, so when I get it I'll go buy a vice and block of wood (lol) and I'll let you know have the phanteks PH-TC14PE + TY-143 performs on my delidded CPU versus my current one, exact same overclock with temp differences. I've already posted my info on the current setup in the ivy super stable thread, but will re-post for those of you wondering if you should delid or not.

I'm hoping for a 20c drop cause I've always had a pretty hot chip, runs well on low voltage but heats up faster than most. I'm praying its a good chip with a TIM hackjob on the inside







20c would get me to 5ghz on air


----------



## X-PREDATOR

dude:
do ya have a trust fund or smthing?
whar r ya gna do if ya @#%& up the lapping of the coolers base?
yur stuck with a dud fo a cooler

good luck please post pics of the lapping/delid


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i just checked again n.fury
seems the tint is no longer in stock in my location.landmark pcs in sa cape town.1 of my favourate places - good sales/&rma services and good prices.they had antec and thermalright or some other brand listed. 50ml containers
yo basicly rub/wipe the cooler base with it with a cloth and it gives ya back that silver shine and protects the base.ya cn also use it on other stuff


----------



## neofury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> i just checked again n.fury
> seems the tint is no longer in stock in my location.landmark pcs in sa cape town.1 of my favourate places - good sales/&rma services and good prices.they had antec and thermalright or some other brand listed. 50ml containers
> yo basicly rub/wipe the cooler base with it with a cloth and it gives ya back that silver shine and protects the base.ya cn also use it on other stuff


Well the whole idea is to fill in the microscopic holes of imperfection, I think the other dudes problem is that his cooler is defective, should probably RMA it.

I think any kind of good TIM would work just fine so long as you use a coffee filter to buff it all after. It's called tinting cause you should see a tinted color isn't it?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

thats perfecto
the nice thing about this tint stuff
it acts as a cleaning liquid aswell
and does what yo just described:fillin in the m.scopic gaps.i seen it done before and it looks freakin awsome.

r ya gna delid ya ivy?
wow lol yur a brave soul.best of luck man


----------



## draterrojam

Hey guys, just picked up the Phanteks PH-TC14PE and I love how it looks and it looking good so far for cooling compared to the h60 before. What do you guys think of the stock fans? You think they are worth keeping or getting different ones? I see people like the thermalright ones here.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

the stock fans r ok.but there r better options-thermaltake/noctua/cougar its up to yo..but do ya self a favour read through this thread and then youl have a better idea of what works best.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zboy*
> 
> the base has these very thin and shallow angular ridges that are parallel to each other, with a mm or a fraction of a mm of space between them. it's definitely not a smooth finish because i have to dig in to those in order the clean the base thoroughly. if i try to clean it like how i would clean the top of an ihs, residue would be left over
> 
> i saw the same angular ridges in some random unboxing of another cpu cooler, and yeah i remember reading about that convex shape being intentional, but i didn't remember if it was about this cooler or some other one
> 
> i'm not even sure if these have a negative impact on its cooling ability, but like i said, i'm thinking about deliding so i may as well look into this too
> 
> here we go
> 
> http://www.silentpcreview.com/files/images/phanteks-tc14pe/07.jpg
> 
> you can see the arcs on this but i'm pretty sure that base is still smoother than the one i have. maybe i just have bad lighting or i wasn't paying enough attention, but i never noticed a near mirror finish on mine


That pic is what they normally look like.

Could you post a pic of what yours looks like? Two pics would be better; one with TIM just wiped of and one with it clean.


----------



## neofury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *draterrojam*
> 
> Hey guys, just picked up the Phanteks PH-TC14PE and I love how it looks and it looking good so far for cooling compared to the h60 before. What do you guys think of the stock fans? You think they are worth keeping or getting different ones? I see people like the thermalright ones here.


I never used the stock fans I went straight to 3x TY-143's, but I don't regret it.

Check these prime95 runs below.

This is my 212+ (push/pull):



As you can see, I was running at 4.7ghz with 1.255v on an older version of prime (that version seems to push me 4-5c less than 27.9 does)

Now look at my Phanteks + 3x TY-143's



Keep in mind, this was immediately after install, without curing (used phanteks TIM) and no tint.

Now look at my Phanteks + 3x TY-143's with the proper version of Prime, with more time to cure and a higher OC/voltage:



As you can see, it handles 4.8ghz like a champ considering the voltage (12hr stable) and the vcore, and these were just the max temperatures, it was mainly 70~ average. (This time using a tint and uncured AS5)

I would highly recommend these fans, I have a chip that runs pretty hot even on lower voltage.

I am not delidded, but I will be soon and will post my results once I do.

In conclusion, Prime95 27.9 seems to push the cpu 5~ degrees or so more than 27.7, add to that I'm running a higher OC with TIM that hasn't cured yet, I'd say I've already gained about 15c realistically versus the 212+, with room for improvement. I know the DIE probably has a piss poor application of TIM on it though, cause I get crazy heat on lower volts. I'll be delidding soon!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *draterrojam*
> 
> Hey guys, just picked up the Phanteks PH-TC14PE and I love how it looks and it looking good so far for cooling compared to the h60 before. What do you guys think of the stock fans? You think they are worth keeping or getting different ones? I see people like the thermalright ones here.


Stock fans are fine. They are now using a new fan (left) compared to old fan (right). New fan performs better than old and about same as Thermalright fans at same speed. It seems running the TY-143 fans at full 2300rpm speed instead of 1300rpm like TY-140/141/145/147s' maximum speed is only 3-4c difference.


Click on image to see full size


----------



## X-PREDATOR

has any 1 noticed perhaps whilst cleaning a stock fan that theres almost black stains on the frame that are kinda wet?almost looks like lubricants maybe from inside the fan motor.
i just cleaned my setup out over weekend and took the phantek fan out (to loud for me as a exhaust fan)
& noticed this black goo on the fan frame


----------



## Zboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Zboy*
> 
> the base has these very thin and shallow angular ridges that are parallel to each other, with a mm or a fraction of a mm of space between them. it's definitely not a smooth finish because i have to dig in to those in order the clean the base thoroughly. if i try to clean it like how i would clean the top of an ihs, residue would be left over
> 
> i saw the same angular ridges in some random unboxing of another cpu cooler, and yeah i remember reading about that convex shape being intentional, but i didn't remember if it was about this cooler or some other one
> 
> i'm not even sure if these have a negative impact on its cooling ability, but like i said, i'm thinking about deliding so i may as well look into this too
> 
> here we go
> 
> http://www.silentpcreview.com/files/images/phanteks-tc14pe/07.jpg
> 
> you can see the arcs on this but i'm pretty sure that base is still smoother than the one i have. maybe i just have bad lighting or i wasn't paying enough attention, but i never noticed a near mirror finish on mine
> 
> 
> 
> That pic is what they normally look like.
> 
> Could you post a pic of what yours looks like? Two pics would be better; one with TIM just wiped of and one with it clean.
Click to expand...

not sure if i have enough tim to reapply lol. i'll try to get to it after i order whatever i need for delidding

when i run prime95 with my 3570k @ 1.2V, my max temps are in the low 90s - so you can see why i'm curious as to what lapping would do


----------



## X-PREDATOR

if done correctly youl definitely notice a huge improvement.but first find out what is used to seal the cpu ihs then u can reseal the cpu after delid.go check on youtube there are plenty vids there.


----------



## doodie

I had a quick question, is it ok for the front fan to sit on top of the ram. This is the only way i can get it to fit into my case.

Thanks.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doodie*
> 
> I had a quick question, is it ok for the front fan to sit on top of the ram. This is the only way i can get it to fit into my case.
> 
> Thanks.


No problem at all.


----------



## neofury

I was wondering what benefit re-sealing the IHS would even have. Isn't it fine to just use the clamp to hold it down so long as you put it on straight? I should be receiving my CLP today or tomorrow, and the moment I do I'm buying my vice and block of wood (lol, that always sounds funny)

If it's wise to re-seal, I'll consider it, but wondering what type of adhesive to use.

Shame newegg doesn't sell CLP/CLU, I couldn't get CLU at a reasonable price and CLP from Amazon, the tracking is bogus and it's shipping USPS, so earliest would probably actually be Friday come to think of it. My newegg order of the Articlean should arrive today, it's really a shame.

EDIT: Wow, that was quick. The cleaner did just arrive mere minutes after I mentioned it. Purolator ftw so far on all my purchases online, UPS for the loss. USPS/Canada-Post undecided still.


----------



## LGxStarburst

predator i noticed that black goo you were talking about when i got my kit from the guy i bought it from. i dont know what that is it might be some sort of lubricant they use on the fans that is getting out somehow. i couldnt really tell because the guy i got mine from seemed to burn incence near his computer, cause the heatsink was covered in resin from the incence nasty **** lol


----------



## X-PREDATOR

well i dont smoke(i quit now for 5years)
and i clean my setup atleast once in every 10times ive used it.
i took it out and replaced with a 140mm silent x.now my ears dont hear jack......?!!!
dam why do people not take care more proper of there setups : these arent exactly cheap dinky toys


----------



## X-PREDATOR

neofury.its fine to not seal just use enough paste when reaplying under the cap.if i was u contact intel and ask what seal they use in factory - ps dont tell them ur delidding otherwise theyll freak


----------



## X-PREDATOR

neo-try permatex to reseal read this
3570K @ 4.2GHz - Delid
Temperatures? - Tom's
Hardware
www 
.tomshardware.com/.../3570k-2
ghz- ...


----------



## Re-ality

I currently own a NH-D14 and it's nice and quiet.

I need two air coolers now for a dual-cpu machine.

I am too afraid to purchase the PH-TC14PE's because many reviews said that it's "loud", "pretty loud", "relatively loud", "much louder than the NH-D14", "not silent like the NH-D14", etc.

How can I get the same (or better) performance than the stock PH-TC14PE, but with the same quietness as the NH-D14?

I tried searching for videos about the Thermalright TY-140 fans, but videos of them on youtube do not look good... For example, lots of clicking noises: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scDWaxFxe7M

What can I do? I am probably just going to order the NH-D14 again cause I know it's quiet.


----------



## Re-ality

Check out these recordings of fan noise:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqKaGyFrk64

Have you guys tried the Cougar CF-V14H on your PH-TC14PE?


----------



## Zboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Re-ality*
> 
> I currently own a NH-D14 and it's nice and quiet.
> 
> I need two air coolers now for a dual-cpu machine.
> 
> I am too afraid to purchase the PH-TC14PE's because many reviews said that it's "loud", "pretty loud", "relatively loud", "much louder than the NH-D14", "not silent like the NH-D14", etc.
> 
> How can I get the same (or better) performance than the stock PH-TC14PE, but with the same quietness as the NH-D14?
> 
> I tried searching for videos about the Thermalright TY-140 fans, but videos of them on youtube do not look good... For example, lots of clicking noises: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scDWaxFxe7M
> 
> What can I do? I am probably just going to order the NH-D14 again cause I know it's quiet.


according to http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1291-page1.html the phanteks actually sounds better than the nh-d14

i run my fans at 20% nearly 24/7, as my cpu doesn't hit temps that requires them to ramp up. i usually can't even tell that my computer is on during the day, and i can comfortably sleep on my bed which is 5 feet away from my computer. it's not dead silent, but straight out of the box it is certainly one of the quietest coolers


----------



## Re-ality

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zboy*
> 
> according to http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1291-page1.html the phanteks actually sounds better than the nh-d14


Sorry, I can't believe it, because I looked at like 15 article reviews and video reviews and every single one of them said the Phanteks is louder.

The link you gave was the only article to ever say otherwise, so I have to trust the overwhelming majority here.

Random example,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5lAbnPml4o&t=20m


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Re-ality*
> 
> , I can't believe it, because I looked at like 15 article reviews and video reviews and every single one of them said the Phanteks is louder.
> The link you gave was the only article to ever say otherwise, so I have to trust the overwhelming majority here.
> Random example,
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5lAbnPml4o&t=20m


Those guys don't even understand what the difference in volume level even is. A difference of 1.3dBA is almost nothing..








With volume levels of 55dBA, 55.5dBA & 56.3dBA you will be hard pressed to find anyone who can hear the difference.. Very few people can hear volume difference in 2-3dBA increase.. and they are saying .5dBA & .1.3dBA is big difference.








And if they don't know what dBA differences are why should we listen to anything they are saying.
Quote:


> People generally perceive a 10-dBA increase in a noise source as a doubling of loudness. For example, a 70-dBA sound will be perceived by an average person as twice as loud as a 60-dBA sound. People generally cannot detect differences of 1 dBA to 2 dBA between noise sources. Under ideal listening conditions, differences of 2 dBA or 3 dBA can be detected by some people. A 5-dBA change would probably be perceived by most people under normal listening conditions.


http://tiny.cc/beejzw
13.3, 3rd paragraph

Here's a link to actual sound clips of many of the top coolers. First is full speed, second is 880rpm
http://www.hardwaremax.net/reviews/kuehler/420-test-thermalright-silver-arrow-sb-e.html?start=5

On my 2 TC14PE coolers (on i7 [email protected] & i7 [email protected]) fans never go above 950rpm running prime. 920 = 56c & 980 = 48c. At that speed fan are very quiet.. same as sound clip at 880rpm. You have to put your ear less than 3cm away to hear them. Obviously I could slow them down more and raise CPU heat but they are quiet enough I see no need.

Phanteks has 2 140mm fans; the new and the old..in that order in the pics below. New one is slightly faster rpm and bigger motor.


----------



## Zboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Re-ality*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Zboy*
> 
> according to http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1291-page1.html the phanteks actually sounds better than the nh-d14
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, I can't believe it, because I looked at like 15 article reviews and video reviews and every single one of them said the Phanteks is louder.
> 
> The link you gave was the only article to ever say otherwise, so I have to trust the overwhelming majority here.
> 
> Random example,
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5lAbnPml4o&t=20m
Click to expand...

i never said it was quieter than the nh-d14 - i said that it sounds better. if you compare quality recordings of either cooler, you may notice that the "woosh" produced by the phanteks isn't as harsh as that of the noctua's. noise level is only half the battle. for example, would you prefer to hear a soft and high-pitched squeal, or a louder, low hum?

and to my understanding, the winner in sound level and performance bounces back and fourth between either cooler, depending on which site you look at. most of them will admit that there's a margin of error, or that the winner barely came out on top. i have yet to see a comparison claim that one cooler is leaps and bounds above the other. realistically, you probably wouldn't even be able to determine which one was louder by ear - though there's a good chance that you could differentiate between the sounds that the coolers make.

ps. i would confidently trust a SPCR reviewer over many other reviewers when it comes to evaluating noise. several reviewers lack the proper environment, technology, or even knowledge. some don't even attempt to get in depth about it


----------



## gregoire

SPCR review was the main reason for me to buy it, and I have to say I am really happy with mine !!!


----------



## neofury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Re-ality*
> 
> I currently own a NH-D14 and it's nice and quiet.
> 
> I need two air coolers now for a dual-cpu machine.
> 
> I am too afraid to purchase the PH-TC14PE's because many reviews said that it's "loud", "pretty loud", "relatively loud", "much louder than the NH-D14", "not silent like the NH-D14", etc.
> 
> How can I get the same (or better) performance than the stock PH-TC14PE, but with the same quietness as the NH-D14?
> 
> I tried searching for videos about the Thermalright TY-140 fans, but videos of them on youtube do not look good... For example, lots of clicking noises: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scDWaxFxe7M
> 
> What can I do? I am probably just going to order the NH-D14 again cause I know it's quiet.


I have those fans. They're incredible. No clicking but definitely loud at 100%. I'd bet the TC14PE with 2 or 3 of those would run well at 75% speed. When my comp is idle they're at 75% and 100% at load. You could simply keep them at 75% and I think you'd be more than happy. These fans push a ton of air, an absolute ton.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

you can use any fan on this beast at low rpm and within a margin of error youll get similar performance.ive got cm extraflo 120mm*2 @ 25% (1130rpm) and their just like other fans - if you ramp up rpm yo get noise.my idle temps vary from 19 - [email protected] the moment and while gaming range fom 35 - 50(depending what game i play)

so you can get the phanteks and just use noctua fans if you must.go back about 5-10pages and read the thread there was another guy here who did it


----------



## doyll

Maybe you should get BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro 2 coolers. Very quiet and cool in same temp range of all the top coolers.


----------



## neXen

Quote:


> The Phanteks PH-F140HP/TS is the clear winner in every respect. It edged out the new Noctuas every step of the way, delivering the best overall results of any fan we've tested thus far. To top it off, it had cleanest, smoothest sound of all the new fans in this roundup. If we had to start from scratch, this might be our new reference model.


Quote:


> The Noctua NF-A15 PWM and NF-A14 FLX followed close behind the Phanteks in our thermal performance test. The A15 has a smoother acoustic profile than the A14 but both sound fairly good to the ears. However, they share the misfortune of living in the shadow of the P14. The A15 and A14 have a rougher, muddier sound and neither is worthy of being a true successor.


http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html

The new fans are quite spectacular, i have 4 of them setup, 3 on the cooler 1 as the exhaust all running off a pwm splitter+molex power.


----------



## doyll

Phanteks PH-F140HP/TS..

I think the new design is the PH-F140HP and old model is PH-F140TS, but as of now even Phanteks website has sorted what fan is what..

Thermalright TY-14x fans are also very nice. My favorite at the moment. Low priced and great performance.


----------



## nepToon

I have a, maybe kind of stupid, question about the PWM adapters. With the adapters connected is it possible to control them with a PWM fan header?

I dont fully get it, PWM is a pulse signal. So in order to control the fan it needs to be able to read that PWM signal.
When the fan is a 3pin in the first place, how the hell can you regulate it with PWM?

How does it work?









If the fans are PWM controllable than I will add myself on that precious ownerlist


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> I have a, maybe kind of stupid, question about the PWM adapters. With the adapters connected is it possible to control them with a PWM fan header?
> 
> I dont fully get it, PWM is a pulse signal. So in order to control the fan it needs to be able to read that PWM signal.
> When the fan is a 3pin in the first place, how the hell can you regulate it with PWM?
> 
> How does it work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the fans are PWM controllable than I will add myself on that precious ownerlist


Simple answer:
Phanteks PWM adapter uses the PWM signal from motherboard to regulate the speed of Phanteks 3 pin fans. (and other 3pin fans too.)


----------



## neofury

I plugged them directly into my mobo and use FanXpert2 and it works like a charm.


----------



## nepToon

Thanks doyll and neofury!

Great to know it works, now there's no reason not to choose this cooler.
How it works can be found out later the most important thing is that it works.


----------



## neofury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> Thanks doyll and neofury!
> 
> Great to know it works, now there's no reason not to choose this cooler.
> How it works can be found out later the most important thing is that it works.


You're going to love this cooler dude. I have a 5ghz overclock and outside of stress testing I rarely ever break 51c. Stress testing pushes the hottest core to 88c but it mostly hovers around high 60s to high 70s clocking about 80 only a few times here and there over a 12hr prime 95


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neofury*
> 
> You're going to love this cooler dude. I have a 5ghz overclock and outside of stress testing I rarely ever break 51c. Stress testing pushes the hottest core to 88c but it mostly hovers around high 60s to high 70s clocking about 80 only a few times here and there over a 12hr prime 95


5Ghz.... holy cow... with those temps O_O

I'll be using it on a i5 3570k @4.5Ghz (Hopefully i'll get a good batch)
I have ordered the blue one, hoping the colouring doesn't make a difference in cooling performance.

With the different colors this cooler is just an absolute eye pleaser.
In the beginning I was totally hot for the Noctua NH-D14, thinking it's the king of all air coolers.
But the ugly fans and the PWM incompability are a real bummer.
Concerning performance I'm not doubting my decision a second.

Man... I can't wait for it to arrive


----------



## neofury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> 5Ghz.... holy cow... with those temps O_O
> 
> I'll be using it on a i5 3570k @4.5Ghz (Hopefully i'll get a good batch)
> I have ordered the blue one, hoping the colouring doesn't make a difference in cooling performance.
> 
> With the different colors this cooler is just an absolute eye pleaser.
> In the beginning I was totally hot for the Noctua NH-D14, thinking it's the king of all air coolers.
> But the ugly fans and the PWM incompability are a real bummer.
> Concerning performance I'm not doubting my decision a second.
> 
> Man... I can't wait for it to arrive


I was so excited waiting for it that when I finally got it I posted a pic of the box on here!









With this cooler and a delid, I bet you could hit 4.9-5.0 with reasonable temps. I forgot to mention I actually us TY-143's instead of the stock fans, but I got the black one and it's quite the beauty. I believe the stock phanteks runs 1-2c cooler than the noctua, at the very least. With these fans blowing 2500rpm on it, I'm sure it must be more. I'll probably re-purpose the phanteks fans for my intake though, they're uber sexy.

At 5ghz the 3770k performs like a Intel Core i7-3970X @ 3.50GHz does. Which is a 999$ CPU. Now obviously once you overclock the 3970X it's killer, but this is just crazy getting a 300$ CPU to perform like a 999$ one does stock.


----------



## octhis

Hello, may I join the club please







?


----------



## qadri

I'm new to overclocking so sorry for the basic question.

Just got this Phanteks cooler and installed it. The machine looks like something else with this in.

Should the fans work as intakes or as exhausts? Two fans came with mine, and I have one at the top and one in the middle as exhausts at present.

Other than this I have the standard (two) Fractal Define R4 fans that come with the case plus an additional intake fan at the bottom.

At idle my CPU is about 37 degrees C. Goes down to about 35 and sometimes up to around 40. Is that not too high considering I have not overclocked yet?

Thanks.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zboy*
> 
> according to http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1291-page1.html the phanteks actually sounds better than the nh-d14
> 
> i run my fans at 20% nearly 24/7, as my cpu doesn't hit temps that requires them to ramp up. i usually can't even tell that my computer is on during the day, and i can comfortably sleep on my bed which is 5 feet away from my computer. it's not dead silent, but straight out of the box it is certainly one of the quietest coolers


How do you control the Phantek fans?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neofury*
> 
> I plugged them directly into my mobo and use FanXpert2 and it works like a charm.


From my experience with Asus Sandy/Ivy Bridge mobos, fanxpert does allow control of pwm fans only on CPU/OPT headers (this two headers cant do voltage control only pwm), while voltage controlled on Chassis fan headers. So are you plugging the phanteks directly (meaning no adapter) to a chassis fan header or CPU fan header?


----------



## Zboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Zboy*
> 
> according to http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1291-page1.html the phanteks actually sounds better than the nh-d14
> 
> i run my fans at 20% nearly 24/7, as my cpu doesn't hit temps that requires them to ramp up. i usually can't even tell that my computer is on during the day, and i can comfortably sleep on my bed which is 5 feet away from my computer. it's not dead silent, but straight out of the box it is certainly one of the quietest coolers
> 
> 
> 
> How do you control the Phantek fans?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *neofury*
> 
> I plugged them directly into my mobo and use FanXpert2 and it works like a charm.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> From my experience with Asus Sandy/Ivy Bridge mobos, fanxpert does allow control of pwm fans only on CPU/OPT headers (this two headers cant do voltage control only pwm), while voltage controlled on Chassis fan headers. So are you plugging the phanteks directly (meaning no adapter) to a chassis fan header or CPU fan header?
Click to expand...

i'm running them with the standard y splitter+pwm adapter, to the cpu header. it's being controlled with fan xpert (1). "20%" is what fan xpert reports, and it's the lowest setting


----------



## pooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qadri*
> 
> I'm new to overclocking so sorry for the basic question.
> 
> Just got this Phanteks cooler and installed it. The machine looks like something else with this in.
> 
> Should the fans work as intakes or as exhausts? Two fans came with mine, and I have one at the top and one in the middle as exhausts at present.
> 
> Other than this I have the standard (two) Fractal Define R4 fans that come with the case plus an additional intake fan at the bottom.
> 
> At idle my CPU is about 37 degrees C. Goes down to about 35 and sometimes up to around 40. Is that not too high considering I have not overclocked yet?
> 
> Thanks.


[Rear Exhaust Case Fan] < [Optional 3rd fan] < [Fin Stack] < [Fan 2] < [Fin Stack] < [Fan 1]

That's the standard config. Some have rotated it 90 degrees to exhaust up to a top vent. Some have memory clearance issues with Fan 1 and can't raise the fan up so they swap it to the optional 3rd Fan position to pull.


----------



## qadri

Thanks. I actually installed mine with the fans facing upwards instead of towards the rear exhaust. That was simply the way I saw it being done in a video tutorial (which said fix the middle plate horizontally!). I actually don't have a top exhaust so I am thinking of rotating it 90 degrees to face the rear exhaust in the standard way you described--so that is air pushing through right to left (when facing case) and then through the rear exhaust on the case.

All the images on google seem to be doing it that way. It seems pointless doing it the way I currently have considering I don't have a ceiling exhaust. I can always put a fan in the ceiling of the case but it I would lose sound proofing on my Define R4, which I'd like to keep if possible.

What do you think?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qadri*
> 
> Thanks. I actually installed mine with the fans facing upwards instead of towards the rear exhaust. That was simply the way I saw it being done in a video tutorial (which said fix the middle plate horizontally!). I actually don't have a top exhaust so I am thinking of rotating it 90 degrees to face the rear exhaust in the standard way you described--so that is air pushing through right to left (when facing case) and then through the rear exhaust on the case.
> 
> All the images on google seem to be doing it that way. It seems pointless doing it the way I currently have considering I don't have a ceiling exhaust. I can always put a fan in the ceiling of the case but it I would lose sound proofing on my Define R4, which I'd like to keep if possible.
> 
> What do you think?


If you are now running it blowing up and have not removed the top vent covers you are not exhausting the hot exhaust .

The R4 has 140mm back exhaust so if you turn cooler to exhaust back the hot exhaust will be pulled out of case by rear exhaust vent fan.

I would not advise using a fan on back of cooler as the rear exhaust fan is too close to work properly.

I have found the R4 fans to be rather low in airflow / static pressure when trying to move air though HDD cages.. and case feet are not tall enough for good airflow to bottom intakes (PSU & case). Raising case so you have 40-50mm clearance solves this nicely. I use a caster base.. easier to move in / out and added clearance at same time.


----------



## qadri

Thank you for that. I have moved my intake at the bottom to the top ceiling vent. It's an Arctic Cooling F12 120mm, not very good from what I read (had it lying around from an older system). CPU idle temp is showing a bit lower in Speccy at 35-37 degree.

My system is much louder and I'm not too happy. It's been louder since the Phanteks has gone in but louder now with the fan at the top with a not so consistent sound (when the lid is on). It is blowing quite a lot of air out the top though, I think because of the Phanteks blowing up air below is allowing the Arctic to chuck more out.

I'm going to turn it 90 degrees from the bottom turning left (6 o'clock to 9) - that way I will have a fan at the most right and one in the middle, leaving enough space between the cooler heatsink and the Fractal rear exhaust. Oh, I think I'll have to turn the fans around then to make them blow out towards the rear case exhaust (metal clips a bit of a pain to put on).

Will look at replacing the Arctic with a decent 140mm fan for intake somewhere (may be raising bottom like you, or sacrificing sound proofing). I'll overclock once I can sort the cooler positioning out.


----------



## doyll

We want air*flow* not air*blow* . We want cool air flowing in and heated air flowing out with none or as little as possible of the heated air mixing with cool air that is going to component to cool them... Because hot air does not cool components very well. Lots of fans make lots of air*blow* but often does not give good air*flow*. Every degree hotter the inside of case / air going into CPU & GPU is translates into CPU & GPU being the same degree hotter. So if your case is is 10c hotter than your room and you get good airflow the case temp will be 2-3c hotter tha room.. than CPU & GPU will be 7-8c cooler than it was before.









Example:
23c room + 10c case = 33c and CPU is 68c (CPU is 35c hotter than air into cooler)
23c room + 2c case = 25c and CPU is 60c (CPU is 35c hotter than air into cooler)

I monitor temperatures in case with a cheap (£4.00) indoor/outdoor or terrarium digital thermometer with wired remote sensor. Doing this allows me to see how case is performing relative to room temp. sensor can be positioned different places to make sure there are no hotspots.. like in front of CPU cooler intake or GPU intake. Using this you can configure fans so air flows through the case keeping cool intake air separated from hot exhaust air.


----------



## qadri

Oh ok. Was following up to the point of the example and then got lost. Can you make it a bit clearer for me?

I'm in the UK too, where can I get that £4 temp checker from?


----------



## doyll

If your CPU temp is 70c and the air going into cooler is 20c you have a delta temperature of 50c.
Air temp going into cooler plus delta temp is the CPU temp.

If air into cooler is 20c + 40c delta = 60c CPU
If air into cooler is 30c + 40c delta = 70c CPU
If air into cooler is 40c + 40c delta = 80c CPU

In many cases (no pun) the air in room is 20c and air inside case going into cooler is 30c (10c warmer than room).. and with a 40c delta the CPU is 70c.

But if your room is 20c and you lower the case air / CPU cooler intake air to 23c with 40c delta your CPU is 63c.

Room is same temperature but because you have improved the airflow in your case and lowered the air temp going into cooler you now have a cooler CPU.

My R2 fluctuates between 0.5-5c above room temp. That's with 6x HDDs, X58A-UD5 w/ i7 980 under TC14PE & HD 5770 passive cooling GPU with only 3 intake fans, PCI slots open, back exhaust with duct from cooler, and back top vent open. CPU right now in 26c room is 27-29c @ 700rpm. If I ran full load rendering graphics it would be 48-52c @ 1000rpm. If I raised fan speed It would be lower but 980 is about 20c below safe limit so why increase the noise? Oh, that's both case and cooler fans.. all are controlled by PWM signal from CPU fan socket on motherboard.








At auction site on internet.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

if i may help::

your typical case fan orientation:

front fan : intake
bottom: intake
side : can be exhaust or intake ( i prefer intake helps keep gpu nice an cool)
rear : always exhaust
top : exhaust

your cpu cooler should be pushing/pulling air towards the rear/top exhaust.always exhaust orientation to help hot air escape......


----------



## qadri

Thank you both for the info.

Is something like this what you were talking about to check temps: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007G0XNBA/ref=s9_simh_gw_p23_d0_i3?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=01D61F1ZVS8BDW9SCCAQ&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=358549767&pf_rd_i=468294 - I'll use it to for ambient/room temp and case temp.

I have repositioned the cooler so it's horizontal, blowing towards the rear exhaust fan. I moved the ceiling exhaust fan to the bottom as an intake leaving half of the top vent open. My temps were still the same (35-37 idle). I closed the top vent to reduce noise (which it did) and temp has gone up just over a degree I'd say (39-38 C, sometimes 39). I moved my front Fractal intake up to the higher spot so it's not blowing on the HDD cage but rather on the cooler (I've removed the top cage on my R4 case). It did not make a difference and air coming out is pretty mediocre if you put your hand on it, unless I increase the voltage (from my case) to 12v.

I understand it's a hot day - 26 or so degrees C outside and I am in one of the warmer rooms in the house but my temps for an overclocked CPU with a beast of a cooler is quite high right? Don't want to overclock if I'm handicapped at the start.

After less than a day's use, I did not remove the thermal paste but instead added a little as I could see gaps/thin areas. I don't think this wil make a difference as my temps with the fresh paste were near identical.

I could raise the the bottom of the case so better intake comes through the bottom but my PC is sat on a desk to my left (so don't really fancy that unless I can extend the feet somehow). I could add fans but that will make it more noisy right?

I could replace the Fractal fans?

What do you think of my idle temp and what suggestions can you make?

Thanks.


----------



## doyll

That thermometer will work but I would suggest one with both indoor and outdoor(remote probe) because you can see both your room temp and CPU intake temp with probe inside case and unit setting on desk. They are on Amazon for about a fiver delivered.

No reason your system should be running hot at 26c. It's 26c here as I type and my system is idling 27-30c.

Back case fan should be exhaust with cooler fans on front and middle of cooler blowing back toward rear exhaust.

I assume you have 2 intake fans in front of case. Try leaving the front door open an see what your temps do.. after you turn your rear fan into an exhaust fan again.


----------



## qadri

Thanks. Will look for thermometer that does both.

Yes, system is as you describe:
exhaust fan [gap] < heatsink fins < fan cooler < heatsink fins < fan cooler
(blowing towards exhaust).

I have one intake fan at the front - the standard Fractal one. It's at the top and I've removed the upper HDD cage, so it should be blowing on to the Phatenks cooler. People say adding a second at the front made no difference to temps on R4.

I have one intake (Arctic Cooling F12) at the bottom blowing upwards. I could relocate fans? What else? WHy can't mine be -30 C too!

Got the front door open, I'll see if that brings it down.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

if i may
when you installed the cooler again you said you didnt remove old paste.id highly recommend you reseat aswell.clean both the cpu and coolers base with 100% pure alcohol or even white spirits.with earbuds
wipe clean with toilet paper and afterwards with a tissue or clean non static cloth
reaply paste:
put a small dot in center of cpu
do same with cooler base(very*100small dot)

before seating cooler retighten the mounting brackets on the mobo of the cooler (i noticed from reseating myself they come a little loose) dont overdue just make sure their firm

when seating the cooler dont put the middle crossbar on till your 100% sure its sitting at the right angel and able to sit without moving before putting middle bar on.then put it on without the middle screw. first align the two outer mounting srews and start tightning turning only four counts at each end at a time as you turn the screwdriver. do this 3times at both sides.then put middle bar screw in turn 2times then proceed with the 2 others untill its feels it cant any more ...but make sure to count evenly when turning screws othrwise ull get uneven presure and bad contact. at a point the screws may feel they cant turn but actualy they can.

i turnd mine till they stopd completely and gott better temps.

what paste r yo using?


----------



## qadri

Oh. It is a headache reseating the cooler but if that's the only way I guess I have no choice. Will be my third attempt









The thing is, my temps were hardly better with fresh paste anyway so I don't think removing the older paste applying new paste is the issue?

I'll have to get some white spirit from the DIY store. Some people say you should use a credit card to apply the paste evenly? I just put a smallish blob in the middle. Can you show me a video of putting the paste on just so that I'm clear, or if not some pics? (People have different ways it seems).

Second time when I did it, I really struggled with getting the crossbar on. it moved about quite a bit until I managed to get it on. I did do a few turns at a time on each side but will be more precise this time, provided I'm able to get it on with ease. I just can't think how I'll get it on as smoothly as the way you describe.

I did fully tighten the pressure screws but again, I'll make sure they are completely tight.

I'm using the paste that comes in the box, Phanteks PH-NDC. People on the net saying it's extremely good?

Thanks for the step by step guide. If you get the chance, and have the desire, I really think you should do a video demo of installation. The ones on YouTube are rushed and don't go into detail, never mind aspects of precision which you mentioned.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

ill do it asap im able.my main internet is dead.so im on mobile galaxy y phone.i used as5 the second time around i remount mine the included pastes dryish texture didnt sit well with my nerves.no im not a fanboy.its just been good to me thats all.always get good results with it no matter how sloppy/precise. example: i had a fualty h60 but still remaind under 50 when gaming( 60 -70 % full load).

the included paste is the same as nth1.just a different sticker.
just take yourtime.slowly.

just put a ricegrain dotsize on cpu and on base of coolers center but even less here.

ya the middle bracket is a pain.try using a very long screwdriver with a magnetic point.itl help alot and make it easier

try this youtube:

http://m.youtube.com/watch?hl=en-GB&gl=ZA&client=mv-google&v=trNQynvFjSU&fulldescription=1


----------



## X-PREDATOR

if ya think i was helpfull please add rep to me.i needs it desperarely

hehehe


that link is for paste application.im searching for the clip i watched to install first time..gimme couple seconds ill be back...


----------



## X-PREDATOR

go to youtube and follow this guys video of the whole build.great build log and he shows the install of cooler.

Case Labs SM8 and
Z77 OC Formula AIR
Cooled Build Log 2 -
Install i7-3770K and
Phanteks PH-TC14PE
29:09 115 likes, 2
dislikes
by Ronsanut .
7,631 views


----------



## X-PREDATOR

http://m.youtube.com/watch?hl=en-GB&gl=ZA&client=mv-google&v=TVRa3y7IwHg


----------



## X-PREDATOR

high did the links help a bit?


----------



## Jamar2013

@ X-Predator ;
Lol, in the last 7 posts, your posted 6 times, and you have a streak of 5 posts in a row





















.Sorry to bring nothing constructive or in link with the topic..









Edit; About the method for applying the TIM paste, i think it depend of what kind of TIM it is. Metal based TIM are sweeped on the surface of the cpu, with a soft brush, from what i saw in some LiquidPro tutorial. But for standard TIM, there is a couple of school.. Some people just put a ricegrain size of TIM in the center of the cpu, then mounting everything right away, some people are putting the TIM like a cross, in the cpu..I am sure there is more method too ! But from what i learned at school and from experience, a little blop in the center is pretty effective ! With some heat, it expands by itself to cover the entire cpu. I can't speak for other methods.







my 2 cents.

Have a great day !


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i was just helping out of my own expierences when installing this cooler.i posted many times cause i cant edit my post - im using my phone on opera mini -
all the edit ect. links of this website show on my screen like tiny chinese symbols.
so forgive me for this when i say i dont trash your helping hand sir...im tryin my best to be helpfull as much as possable and not overstep the rules of engagement on OC.net....but it has felt like a few peeps here have been gunning my ass from day 1.if any 1 has a issue with me,the South African,being here trying to do the same as others:have fun chatting/learning more/helping/get help THEN TELL ME NOW so we can get to bottom of the problem .ive had a few times people thanking me for the little advise i could give it means alot more to me than what i usualy get here from my own kind...

i was tryin to help.provide H.E.L.P
and i did say small dot/rice dot size. yes 1dot on cpu is enough but sometimes its better to be safe than sorry then do a very x1000 small dot on the base to to ensure 100% perfect contact between male(cpu cooler base) & female (cpu).

cross method :mmm on a gpu yes. E.K recommends that.some prefer that and line method for their water blocks on cpu aswell...

Ihope the managers of oc.net see this post for im done trying to deffend myself,trying to justify my right to be here.what makes others more worthy?give me 1good reason?


----------



## doyll

They don't go on.. and on.. and on.. saying nothing worthwhile.


----------



## qadri

Hey guys, let's not make a point of nothing. Main point is that we are sharing information and helping those who need the advice. You have all been helpful and I really appreciate the guidance, however it comes through.

I will let you know how I get on. I will try the spreading technique using a card. The thermal remover is expensive http://www.aria.co.uk/Products?search=remover&x=-979&y=-69 so I'll probably just get white spirit instead.


----------



## doyll

Denatured Alcohol is cheapest and much better than white spirit. 96% pure or about that. Can be had online cheap if your local chemist or DIY doesn't have any.
£2.84 + £2.28 for 500ml on ebay


----------



## Jamar2013

On my side, i used some ArtiClean Remove and Cleaner, when i remount my heatsink. I think it were doing a perfect job ! I liked using it. I will probably be using it again in the future.


# eBay.ca Link #



Spoiler: Msg @ X-Predator!



And sorry Predator, i didn't mean to bash at you at all. I was not judging your helping level, nor if you are right or not to do what you do. I came in peace and it is just that your posts jumped to me eyes







. Do not take is too personnal, it was not







.


----------



## neofury

I'm going to rep articclean as well. The stuff is just brilliant for removing TIM and making the chip look clean. In fact, even for getting the glue off after you delid, it helps a lot.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i aplogise too.its just that i miss being in front of my pc..so my mobile /time here on oc.net atleast kinda keeps my mind ocupied.been in bed since friday..went to doc on monday.and hopefully good news will come...so far they think its stomach cancer something looked odd to them .they said it looks like a small clot.dont remember details.was too shocked.im still hoping they were wrong and further testing will bring good results...(this cancer has a history in my family)

back to mounting and paste.
spreading is ok but only if using realy thick paste.so a line/dot works best for intel chips cause the physical die/cores are aligned verticaly..

http://www.google.com/images?q=intel+i5+delid+pics&client=ms-opera-mini-android&channel=new&redir_esc=&hl=en&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ei=I3rdUba5C7b54APu04GQBQ&ved=0CAcQsAQ


----------



## adog12341

How is the thermal paste that comes with this heatsink? I can't find any real mention of it. I have prolimatech PK3 right now, but might sell that with my current heatsink if the included stuff is any good.


----------



## neofury

It's fine stuff, as good as AS5 imo roughly. But I think the one you mentioned is better.


----------



## adog12341

Wow, thank for the quick reply! I guess I'll keep my current stuff. Can't wait for it to arrive.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

like neofury said. if i may add on
the included paste is more than apropriate.and from what read the pk1&pk3 r also good performers.


----------



## LGxStarburst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> like neofury said. if i may add on
> the included paste is more than apropriate.and from what read the pk1&pk3 r also good performers.


both are great as well as the other stuff you posted pics of predator.. good information here regardless of multi post.







thanks and good luck on the doctor thing


----------



## Zboy

another giveaway from phanteks - this time you don't actually need to own anything https://www.facebook.com/Phanteks/posts/607076562659499


----------



## nepToon

I really love the PWM to voltage cable that comes with this cooler. I would need it for my Case fans too. Is there a way to just buy this adapter or are there other adapters around?

Incredibly handy if you can only control fans with PWM from the motherboard.


----------



## BKinn

I did some work on my case and my Phanteks fans... what do you guys think? All the metal is powder coated and the fans are painted. I need to add a second coat on the phanteks fans (I started running out of paint aha).


----------



## nepToon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BKinn*
> 
> I did some work on my case and my Phanteks fans... what do you guys think? All the metal is powder coated and the fans are painted. I need to add a second coat on the phanteks fans (I started running out of paint aha).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It looks fantastic, have you painted the blades aswell?

Very clean build, great cable management and the colours on all components match. Only thing that doesnt fit into it is the white cable on top


----------



## BKinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepToon*
> 
> It looks fantastic, have you painted the blades aswell?
> 
> Very clean build, great cable management and the colours on all components match. Only thing that doesnt fit into it is the white cable on top


Thank you! I painted the blades on one of the fans completely but started to run out of paint towards the end so the second one doesn't have the blades painted yet. I haven't noticed any difference in sound, assuming that is what you're curious about. I was actually worried that the paint wouldn't be even and it would wobble or make strange sounds but I haven't had any problems yet.

As for the cables, ugh, I know aha. I ran out of black paint as well so I need to pick both colors up again and finish the job. The paint seems to have a hard time sticking to the sheath around the fan wires.


----------



## octhis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BKinn*
> 
> I did some work on my case and my Phanteks fans... what do you guys think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks awesome!
Like how you removed the HDD cage, looks tidy like that. I'm loving the colours too


----------



## X-PREDATOR

stunning...theres no better way to describe it..just stunning..
why not use black cable sleeving over the white wires instead of paint?
itll be twice as fast to do and itll look awsome...


----------



## Elohim

did you guys know that there is a special edition of the 14PE?

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/PHANTEKS-PH-TC14PE-CPU-Kuehler-Caseking-Anniversary-Edition::21855.html


----------



## X-PREDATOR

no i didnt..but now i do..thanx
golden? man thats alota bling .. bling..oh its so pretty my eyes are goin numb..


----------



## Dangur




----------



## X-PREDATOR

i literaly turn my head up side down to gander at that case..what is that?


----------



## Dangur

TJ08E man


----------



## doyll

Dangur,
What fans are you using on your 14PE?


----------



## Dangur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Dangur,
> What fans are you using on your 14PE?


GlideStream (1200 rpm) PWM.


----------



## doyll

Thanks.
I notice they are 140m mounting holes. How did you clip them onto cooler?


----------



## Dangur

^Mine are 120m, with zip ties.


----------



## doyll

My bad. Looking at the pic I thought they were the same width as the cooler.


----------



## tizm

I like! Just curious what RAM is that? I can't find gold colored RAM except for the Corsair Vengeance but it looks so hideous


----------



## BKinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tizm*
> 
> I like! Just curious what RAM is that? I can't find gold colored RAM except for the Corsair Vengeance but it looks so hideous


The ram is G.SKILL Ripjaw Z Series. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231537

I had it powder coated along with my case so that it is a golden color. As far as I know, no one sells a true "gold" color of RAM. Unfortunately, when I removed the heatsinks, one of mine now doesn't work so I'm down to 12GB. Overall though, I'd say the powder coating is worth it. Just be super careful when you take your heatsinks off or you'll be trying to find a replacement 4Gb stick with cas 7 and 7-7-7-21 timings...


----------



## X-PREDATOR

why ddnt ya just try get gold vengeance lp sticks...on special request from corsair or get the normal gold ones and make the heatsinks shorter...just my curiosity...


----------



## BKinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> why ddnt ya just try get gold vengeance lp sticks...on special request from corsair or get the normal gold ones and make the heatsinks shorter...just my curiosity...


I'm not sure if you're asking me or Tizm. I wanted RAM that had better timings and cas latency than the LP's. They're very overpriced for only 9-9-9-24. I have my G.Skill's at 1866 and 7-7-7-21, probably could do more if I wanted. The coloring on the Vengeance RAM doesn't really look all that gold. It looks more of a mustard color but I'd have to see it in person.

Plus, the powder coating wasn't very expensive at all. I only paid $50 for my RAM, HDD holders, northbridge, southbridge, and all my PCie covers. So that's essentially 17 pieces (counting ram sticks as 1).


----------



## X-PREDATOR

ok cool.i only wondered..im curious by default...cause u said 1 of the sticks got damaged


----------



## BKinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> ok cool.i only wondered..im curious by default...cause u said 1 of the sticks got damaged


Yeah, it got damaged when I took the heatsinks off. It was my fault not GSkill. Eventually I'll replace it and the only manufacture that sells a single 4GB stick with the base timings I want is Corsair. I kept the GSKill heatsink that I had powder coated gold so I can just put it on whatever brand I buy. The price of a single 4GB stick is ridiculous so I might not even replace it. It's $60 to replace one stick when I only paid $140 for them all.

Alright, back on topic ahah.


----------



## adog12341

Can you use the PWM adapter on other fans? I just got some SP120's in DC instead of PWM by mistake so it would be nice to be able to use the adapter instead of returning them or running in DC.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adog12341*
> 
> Can you use the PWM adapter on other fans? I just got some SP120's in DC instead of PWM by mistake so it would be nice to be able to use the adapter instead of returning them or running in DC.


The PWM adapter will work on most DC fans.


----------



## adog12341

Cool, thanks much.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Would SP120's fit the Phanteks PH-TC14PE ok?


----------



## neo0031

Hey PH-TC14PE owners. A quick question to those that own the Corsair Vengeance Pro DIMMs (those new ones). Would they fit under the PH-TC14PE? Or would I have to resort to Vengeance LP?

Trying to plan my build and thought I'd get questions out the way one by one. Thanks for any help guys!


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Sp120-yes 120mm fans work/fit 100% ram-yes it might fit depending which ramslots r u gna use plus id say use a 120mm fan then as a 1st fan as itll give a little bit more clearence...nthin wrng with the vengeance lp-s ive got 16gb 4x4gb,and its very solid fast ram,go for a nice 1600hz or 18... Kit


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Would SP120's fit the Phanteks PH-TC14PE ok?


Sp120 have same mount spacing as PH-F140 fans but I doubt the mount pins that fan clips hook into on fan will be long enough to work. You can probably make mount pins with pull-ties.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> Hey PH-TC14PE owners. A quick question to those that own the Corsair Vengeance Pro DIMMs (those new ones). Would they fit under the PH-TC14PE? Or would I have to resort to Vengeance LP?
> 
> Trying to plan my build and thought I'd get questions out the way one by one. Thanks for any help guys!


What CPU clearance does your case have?
It's not just the cooler clearing RAM but also having enough RAM to side cover clearance for fan to fit.









I think Corsair Vengeance Pro is 44mm tall. TC14PE cooler will clear by a couple mm but to mount a fan over them you case will need 178mm CPU clearance... if you use 120mm fans you will need 158mm CPU clearance.

Vengeance LP is 32mm tall. With 140mm fan CPU clearance needs to be 166mm.

CPU clearance plus 8mm is motherboard clearance minus 2mm RAM mount equals fans plus RAM clearance.


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sp120 have same mount spacing as PH-F140 fans but I doubt the mount pins that fan clips hook into on fan will be long enough to work. You can probably make mount pins with pull-ties.
> What CPU clearance does your case have?
> It's not just the cooler clearing RAM but also having enough RAM to side cover clearance for fan to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think Corsair Vengeance Pro is 44mm tall. TC14PE cooler will clear by a couple mm but to mount a fan over them you case will need 178mm CPU clearance... if you use 120mm fans you will need 158mm CPU clearance.
> 
> Vengeance LP is 32mm tall. With 140mm fan CPU clearance needs to be 166mm.
> 
> CPU clearance plus 8mm is motherboard clearance minus 2mm RAM mount equals fans plus RAM clearance.


Thanks for the replies. It's for a planned build, either in a Define R4 or Corsair 350D.

To answer X-Predator, I'm only considering the Vengeance Pro for looks. But the LP looks good too, and I'm only getting 1600 or 1866, so.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Ok cool,what would b cool is if corsair makes a vengeance pro lp kit or a lp dominator platinum kit....word of advise when installing the cooler,do a kinda-dry test bfor realy mounting it,to make sure itll fit,ive seen pics of it in r4 and 350d,r4 is a better option,... In my opinion...another good option is the c70,nzxt phantom, cant wait to c ur setup when done bro-phanteks rules and the rest...folow. if i may,has any1 here tried the new cm jetflo fans,im replacing my 2year old jetflos soon,i was gna get cougar vortex but their a bit hard to get in sa.


----------



## neofury

I'd kill for an LP dominator platinum. On my next build I'm doing water cooling as a result. However isn't it true you can just remove the heat spreaders and they're just as good?

I might be using a 900D


----------



## neo0031

Ha, I was originally wanting to put it in the new Bitfenix Prodigy M (for mATX)...







I doubt that'll fit though, so.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> It's for a planned build, either in a Define R4 or Corsair 350D..


Define R4 is my choice. You might find this thread interesting. Has lots of info on Define R4








http://www.overclock.net/t/1419835/help-to-decide-case-and-cpu-cooler/0_20


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Define R4 is my choice. You might find this thread interesting. Has lots of info on Define R4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1419835/help-to-decide-case-and-cpu-cooler/0_20


I think I'm pretty familiar with the case by now, but thanks for link.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Sory i meant im replacing my xtraflo fans..,ooh a lp d.m.n.t.r kit would be killer,maybe i should pm 1 of their reps...hey doyll,wats up,....


----------



## l0rdraiden

Does the G.Skill Ripjaws X fits under the Phanteks PH-TC14PE?

http://www.pccomponentes.com/g_skill_ripjaws_x_ddr3_1866_pc3_14900_16gb_2x8gb_cl9.html


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *l0rdraiden*
> 
> Does the G.Skill Ripjaws X fits under the Phanteks PH-TC14PE?
> 
> http://www.pccomponentes.com/g_skill_ripjaws_x_ddr3_1866_pc3_14900_16gb_2x8gb_cl9.html


Asked and answered many times.

I guess most people don't know that clicking on the "Search This Thread" a top of page and entering "Ripjaws" will give them results for Ripjaws searches this thread.
=1106307&advanced=1]http://www.overclock.net/newsearch/?search=ripjaws&resultSortingPreference=recency&byuser=&output=posts&sdate=0&newer=1&type=all&containingthread[0]=1106307&advanced=1

http://www.overclock.net/t/1106307/official-phanteks-ph-tc14pe-news-discussion-and-owners-thread/960_20#post_19789144


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Is it normal for these to sag a bit? Mine is at a very slight angle, temperatures seem fine though.


----------



## doyll

The heatpipes are soft copper so are pretty easily bent. You could try turning it 180 and see if it looks better.


----------



## neofury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *l0rdraiden*
> 
> Does the G.Skill Ripjaws X fits under the Phanteks PH-TC14PE?
> 
> http://www.pccomponentes.com/g_skill_ripjaws_x_ddr3_1866_pc3_14900_16gb_2x8gb_cl9.html


I believe so. Sniper fits and they're basically the same no?


----------



## pooter

Yes it would fit.

From Phanteks FAQ:


From Gskill FAQ:
Quote:


> Q:
> How tall are the memory modules?
> 
> A:
> The height of the memory modules are listed on each of the product webpages.
> 
> TridentX: 54mm (2.13in) with fin; 39mm (1.54in) without fin
> RipjawsX: 40mm (1.58in)
> RipjawsZ: 40mm (1.58in)
> Ripjaws: 40mm (1.58in)
> Sniper: 42mm (1.65in)
> ECO: 32mm (1.26in)
> ARES: 33mm (1.30in)


The question is whether something will fit without shifting the fan up. Pretty much everything fits (Trident X fits if the fins are taken off) as long as you can shift the fan up all the way.


----------



## TheMasterNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> Hey PH-TC14PE owners. A quick question to those that own the Corsair Vengeance Pro DIMMs (those new ones). Would they fit under the PH-TC14PE? Or would I have to resort to Vengeance LP?
> 
> Trying to plan my build and thought I'd get questions out the way one by one. Thanks for any help guys!


Well they are reportedly 44mm in height and my Patriot Viper ram is 41 and it fits easily.


----------



## doyll

Keep in mind just because the 140mm fan fits above the RAM does not mean it will fit in the case.

Add 8mm to case CPU clearance specification to get the side cover to motherboard distance, than subtract 2mm for RAM slot and the height of RAM. What is left is how big fan can be.
Example
8mm + 168mm = 176mm -2mm (slot) = 174mm - 44mm (RAM) = 130mm (140mm fan will not fit)

Can always mount fans in Pull / Pull configuration or run with one fan. The temperature difference is only 1c.


----------



## TheMasterNoob

Did that guy ever end up fitting it into the ft03? I PM'd him a week ago and he still hasn't replied.


----------



## ls1torq

Just received my PH-TC14PE and I'm not too impressed with the build quality and cosmetic finish.

Are the kinks in the attached pictures look normal? Size and location?

Also the finish has several areas that look to be hand touched-up (splotches).

Feed back would is appreciated!


----------



## Dangur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ls1torq*
> 
> Are the kinks in the attached pictures look normal? Size and location?


No, send it back and get a replacement.


----------



## doyll

Contact Phanteks. They have great customer service!









If you have any other problems please let me know.


----------



## ls1torq

Thanks everyone. A Phantek rep has already pm'd me and I've sent a RMA request.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ls1torq*
> 
> Thanks everyone. A Phantek rep has already pm'd me and I've sent a RMA request.


Like I said. Great customer service!


----------



## neofury

Yeah that looked really odd. Mine is nothing like that.


----------



## doyll

Indeed. And really Phanteks is not the real culprit. The manufacturer wasn't monitoring the quality control production line. Those kinked pipes should have been culled long before they were to the boxing stage.


----------



## abombthecoder

I just ordered this! I'm currently using a stock intel 4770k cooler, what's the best method to get clean off the old thermal compound?


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abombthecoder*
> 
> I just ordered this! I'm currently using a stock intel 4770k cooler, what's the best method to get clean off the old thermal compound?


Isopropyl alcohol and lint free cloth.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Doyll you said the pipes r easy bendable,have you tried?i have,and it needs a good amount of force before moving at all... to the other guy-yes it will LOOK LIKE its sagging when installed-the human eyes perception of viewing angles are decieving sometimes.mine is the same,it looks like its saggin but i knw it aint-ive re-mounted it a few times.im remounting before winter is finished(doin a few changes)


----------



## doyll

Yes, I have tweaked twin towers so they are parallel several times. I've had 3 14PE's now and one of those was lightly tweaked. It was no harder to straighten out than any other. *But don't try straightening your cooler unless you are sure you know what you are doing!! It's easy to screw up and end up with a broken cooler!*


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Thats true D.smtimes its best to rma till u get what u payd 4,or just leave well enough alone...


----------



## abombthecoder

would adding a third fan help out much?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abombthecoder*
> 
> would adding a third fan help out much?


Maybe 1c.


----------



## abombthecoder

This might seem strange, but after reseating the card fan several times to make sure I had the right application of thermal paste, my fan monitor is reading that the fan's RPMS are 1275, I could swear that when I first installed it it was 1300.


----------



## doyll

Didn't your Mum tell you it isn't nice to swear?









Don't worry about it. 25rpm is nothing.


----------



## bhav

Hello, I've had this cooler for a long time and still using it on an X58 + I7 980 rig. I just installed it into a new case which you can see here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1404897/corsair-carbide-air-540-owners-club-gallery/1350#post_20717449

Its seems to be handling 1.4v and 4.5 Ghz on an I7 980 very well now that I have some decent airflow:



I only use that setting to test / bench though, for 24/7 it runs at 1.31v and 4.3 Ghz, because 4.4 needs 1.35v, and 4.5 needs 1.4 and the performance gain isnt worth the risk.

At 4.3 Ghz and 1.31v, all cores stay under 75 degrees now. I'm also getting an extra phanteks fan to add to it now, probably wont make much difference to the temps, but it will look a lot nicer through the window, plus a LED strip.


----------



## posssesssed

Hey, I'm new here but i have used these forums as a resource for prior builds. I have just purchased parts for a new build (just shipped) and no I actually didn't think about clearance for my CPU cooler, the Phantek ph-tc14pe.









My ram is the newly released Corsair Vengeance Pro series 8 GB (2x4) 1866
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233524

My board is the MSI Z87-G45
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130693

My case is the Rosewill THOR V2 (white)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147158

Will these parts jive with the Phanteks PH-TC14PE?? From reviews it seems to be the best air-cooling solution for a 4670K.

... And if its only the ram that won't fit, what is a good recommendation for another set? (under $100 for 2x4 GB)

Wisdom needed!


----------



## pooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *posssesssed*
> 
> Hey, I'm new here but i have used these forums as a resource for prior builds. I have just purchased parts for a new build (just shipped) and no I actually didn't think about clearance for my CPU cooler, the Phantek ph-tc14pe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My ram is the newly released Corsair Vengeance Pro series 8 GB (2x4) 1866
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233524
> 
> My board is the MSI Z87-G45
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130693
> 
> My case is the Rosewill THOR V2 (white)
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147158
> 
> Will these parts jive with the Phanteks PH-TC14PE?? From reviews it seems to be the best air-cooling solution for a 4670K.
> 
> ... And if its only the ram that won't fit, what is a good recommendation for another set? (under $100 for 2x4 GB)
> 
> Wisdom needed!


Worse case scenario, move the fan that normally sits above the DIMM slots and move it to the third optional position. The fin stack still will cover 2 of the inner slots though so you may only be able to use the outer two. Honestly not a great situation even if it does work. I'd try to exchange for some LP ram or G.Skill imo.


----------



## posssesssed

Thats too bad because i really love my Vengeance Pro I'll be getting









So is this low profile enough
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231460

or

Do I have to go this low?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-233-186&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&Pagesize=10&PurchaseMark=&SelectedRating=-1&VideoOnlyMark=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Page=4#scrollFullInfo


----------



## pooter

Corsair LP no problems, pretty sure someone else in this thread said they used Gskill snipers too. I'm using Gskill Trident X's with the heatsink fins removed.


----------



## bhav

There's space for ram that is a little bit higher, those snipers will work, but nothing much bigger.


----------



## doyll

As already said it fits.

G.Skill Sniper is 42-43mm and bottom fins are 47-48mm above motherboard so cooler will fit but keep in mind a 140mm fan on top of them means a motherboard to side cover distance of 183-185mm... That is 175-177mm cpu clearance. (top of cpu is 8mm above motherboard)


----------



## Dangur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> keep in mind a 140mm fan on top of them means a motherboard to side cover distance of 183-185mm...


Exactly why I cant use 140 fans


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dangur*
> 
> Exactly why I cant use 140 fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


140mm won't fit in middle?


----------



## Dangur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 140mm won't fit in middle?


Nope.
I was reading this review from the guys over at hardwaresecrets, and they came to the conclusion that the best way is to have the CPU cooler fans facing the GPU.
I what to try it but it will blow all the air straight on my 780, what you think?


----------



## doyll

It will not work in your case. You need air moving intake vent to exhaust vent just as you have it now. Simply put you want only cool air going to cooler and all of the hot air going out of case. Every degree warmer the air going into cooler is a degree hotter your CPU will be.

I have same cooler. Fan is 140x140mm and cooler is 140x160mm. Not that it matters but fan should fit in middle. You might need to remove the thumbscrew mounting the crossbar to cooler but you don't need that screw. I replaced mine with a normal screw.

What fans are you using now?

You might find the attached basic but by no means complete tutorial helpful. It's a work in progress:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



There is much more to cooling than good cases and good CPU / GPU coolers. Modern GPU's make more heat than CPU... and getting that heat out of the case can be a challenge.

Setting up the case to cool properly is the hardest and most time consuming part of a build... And the most neglected by most builders.

We need at least as much volume of air flowing through the case as the total of CPU and GPU fans flow through their coolers. If we do not have as much air coming into and going out of case as CPU and GPU coolers are passing through and heating up than some of that heated cooler exhaust has to be re-circulated through the coolers. This means the cooler run hotter because the air going through them is hotter.

Cases, especially those with filters, usually benefit from fans with higher static pressure ratings than stock fans... "cooler" fans instead of "case" fans.
Intakes are typically more restricted than exhaust; air filter, more restrictive grill, HDD cage, etc.
I prefer more intake than exhaust. And don't confuse number of fans with amount of airflow... or air*flow* with air*blow*

air*flow* is flowing cool air from intake to component and flowing hot air from component out of case without the hot air mixing with the cool air.

air*blow* is lots of fans blowing air with some of hot air from components mixing with cool air making it warmer resulting in warm air not cooling components as well as the cool air will.

Putting fans in case as intake and/or exhaust is only the first step. These fans only move air in and out of case.

This does not mean heated air is not mixing with cool air.

Nor does it mean cool air is going to where it is needed.

Getting the air to flow inside of case properly is even more important. We still need to manage where the air flows inside the case. We can do this several ways; deflectors, cooler intake fans, exhaust fans, removing vent grills, using fans with higher pressure/airflow, building ducts to or from CPU/GPU cooler, etc.

Using a remote temperature sensor to monitor what air temps are is the key to finding out where the cool air is flowing and knowing heated air is not mixing into it. By monitoring this we can than make changes to get airflow the way we want it.

I monitor the temps with a cheap indoor/outdoor wired remote or terrarium digital thermometer. Twist a piece of stiff insulated wire into the last 8" of sensor lead so you can bend it to position sensor where you want it... like 40mm in front of your GPU cooler/radiator intake.. to see what the air temp going into CPU / GPU cooler is compared to room temp. The closer it is to room temp the better.. Shouldn't be more 5c maximum, 2-3c is what I usually end up with after 30 minutes full load on both CPU and GPU.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Scrubls

Does the Phanteks PH-TC14PE fit inside the Corsair 500r?

I've seen some pics with the case open but I want to make sure it also fits with the case closed.


----------



## Dangur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> It will not work in your case. You need air moving intake vent to exhaust vent just as you have it now. Simply put you want only cool air going to cooler and all of the hot air going out of case. Every degree warmer the air going into cooler is a degree hotter your CPU will be.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have same cooler. Fan is 140x140mm and cooler is 140x160mm. Not that it matters but fan should fit in middle. You might need to remove the thumbscrew mounting the crossbar to cooler but you don't need that screw. I replaced mine with a normal screw.
> 
> What fans are you using now?
> 
> You might find the attached basic but by no means complete tutorial helpful. It's a work in progress:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> There is much more to cooling than good cases and good CPU / GPU coolers. Modern GPU's make more heat than CPU... and getting that heat out of the case can be a challenge.
> 
> Setting up the case to cool properly is the hardest and most time consuming part of a build... And the most neglected by most builders.
> 
> We need at least as much volume of air flowing through the case as the total of CPU and GPU fans flow through their coolers. If we do not have as much air coming into and going out of case as CPU and GPU coolers are passing through and heating up than some of that heated cooler exhaust has to be re-circulated through the coolers. This means the cooler run hotter because the air going through them is hotter.
> 
> Cases, especially those with filters, usually benefit from fans with higher static pressure ratings than stock fans... "cooler" fans instead of "case" fans.
> Intakes are typically more restricted than exhaust; air filter, more restrictive grill, HDD cage, etc.
> I prefer more intake than exhaust. And don't confuse number of fans with amount of airflow... or air*flow* with air*blow*
> 
> air*flow* is flowing cool air from intake to component and flowing hot air from component out of case without the hot air mixing with the cool air.
> 
> air*blow* is lots of fans blowing air with some of hot air from components mixing with cool air making it warmer resulting in warm air not cooling components as well as the cool air will.
> 
> Putting fans in case as intake and/or exhaust is only the first step. These fans only move air in and out of case.
> 
> This does not mean heated air is not mixing with cool air.
> 
> Nor does it mean cool air is going to where it is needed.
> 
> Getting the air to flow inside of case properly is even more important. We still need to manage where the air flows inside the case. We can do this several ways; deflectors, cooler intake fans, exhaust fans, removing vent grills, using fans with higher pressure/airflow, building ducts to or from CPU/GPU cooler, etc.
> 
> Using a remote temperature sensor to monitor what air temps are is the key to finding out where the cool air is flowing and knowing heated air is not mixing into it. By monitoring this we can than make changes to get airflow the way we want it.
> 
> I monitor the temps with a cheap indoor/outdoor wired remote or terrarium digital thermometer. Twist a piece of stiff insulated wire into the last 8" of sensor lead so you can bend it to position sensor where you want it... like 40mm in front of your GPU cooler/radiator intake.. to see what the air temp going into CPU / GPU cooler is compared to room temp. The closer it is to room temp the better.. Shouldn't be more 5c maximum, 2-3c is what I usually end up with after 30 minutes full load on both CPU and GPU.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah I thought the same thing. Unfortunately I'm gonna change the ph-tc14pe to the nh-u12s for ease of transportation and space. DONT HATE ME








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrubls*
> 
> Does the Phanteks PH-TC14PE fit inside the Corsair 500r?


Considering its an ATX mid tower it should fit with no problem.


----------



## airisom2

For any of you guys that wondered if you could put the Silverstone FHP141 fans on the PH-TC14PE, I did it. The following link shows the way I put them on there (rubber bands) and some temps with my 3820 @ 1.46V (1.49V BIOS) 4.825GHz benching with P95 small FFT and OCCT Linpack w/AVX (basically IBT).

Link

Here's some pics of it running at 4.562 GHz 1.32V (1.35V BIOS, BCLK=117MHz, Ratio=39x) using the same test setups. The idle temps for both tests (4.56GHz and 4.825GHz) are in the low 30s, with core 0 being a few degrees hotter majority of the time.



With the fans on the low (Quiet) switch (built in fan controller on the fan), they are noticeably quieter than the stock fans at their highest rpms. With the FHP141s on high (Power) mode, it's noticeably louder, and the fan on the left tower makes a high pitched whining noise. Pulling the fan about 1cm away from the heatsink fixes that, though, and you can only hear it on the high rpm setting. The fan won't fit in the middle. When I was switching the fans one time, my finger got caught when the fan was on the high rpm setting...cut a piece of skin off...

Also, if you're planning on doing the same on your cooler, make sure you take out the exhaust fan. I already messed up the bearings on my exhaust fan because it was spinning more than it was supposed to. Plus, with fans like these, an exhaust isn't necessary.

I'll run some benches in the future with the fans sucking air in from the exhaust (with exhaust fan removed). That should improve temps a bit.


----------



## ls1torq

Well, seemingly Phanteks customer service has disappeared... Should of bought a Noctua.

*Since August 22nd* I've submitted my RMA form twice and have inquired about return status 3 times and have gotten zero responses. Attached is my email chain.

Any advice to remedy the issue would be appreciated.

-Brent


----------



## ls1torq

*UPDATE*

Within 30 minutes of my previous post, ALL of the following took place.

1. I was pm'd by the Phanteks Rep on this forum. He/she apologized for the inconvenience and promised the replacement unit would ship today.
2. Phanteks Rep sent a 2nd pm confirming it would ship today and stated I would get a tracking number. Also, apologized again.
3. Received email with tracking number from Phanteks and an apology.

Looking forward to getting a good cooler and testing it! If all goes as planned, I will be a happy customer and recommend this cooler to others.

ALSO, thank you to *doyll* on this forum for putting the word into Phanteks about this issue. I am continually amazed by the members on this forum.

-Brent


----------



## X-PREDATOR

hooray...glad to hear you getting sorted...now just to wait for the cooler and slap that badboy around with prime95...


----------



## neXen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ls1torq*
> 
> *UPDATE*
> 
> Within 30 minutes of my previous post, ALL of the following took place.
> 
> 1. I was pm'd by the Phanteks Rep on this forum. He/she apologized for the inconvenience and promised the replacement unit would ship today.
> 2. Phanteks Rep sent a 2nd pm confirming it would ship today and stated I would get a tracking number. Also, apologized again.
> 3. Received email with tracking number from Phanteks and an apology.
> 
> Looking forward to getting a good cooler and testing it! If all goes as planned, I will be a happy customer and recommend this cooler to others.
> 
> ALSO, thank you to *doyll* on this forum for putting the word into Phanteks about this issue. I am continually amazed by the members on this forum.
> 
> -Brent


I put a RMA request on a Fan for my phanteks cooler two days ago and still haven't received an email regarding my issue.

How long since your initial request did it take before they emailed you?

It's nice to see they make an effort


----------



## doyll

Phanteks has a lot going on right now. They are in the middle of releasing a bunch of new fans (PH-F140XP, PH-F140SP_BK & PH-F140SP_BK_BLED) as well as a new case (Phanteks Enthoo Primo - check out TheModZoo for good video and written reviews) being sent out for reviewers and trying to get all this new product to customers as soon as possible.

Phanteks Rep usually catches anything falling through the cracks and gets it sorted right quick!


----------



## ls1torq

I got almost immediate response upon sending an email describing my issue. It was once I filled out and sent my RMA form in (August 22nd) that I lost contact.


----------



## coelacanth

I just ordered a Phanteks PH-TC14PE from Amazon and upon opening it, all of he heat pipes are crimped and mangled. Going to have to try to get a replacement. Luckily Amazon is good about replacing defective products.

Here are some photos:


----------



## oldnavy

I also sent one back today, due to being too large for my ITX build. The heat pipes looked as bad or worse...


----------



## doyll

Are there anything on box that might indicate when they were made, batch number, etc.?
Looks like manufacturing somehow let a batch of defective pipes through.
What a nightmare trying to find them now!.. Will need to open every box and look.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Are there anything on box that might indicate when they were made, batch number, etc.?
> Looks like manufacturing somehow let a batch of defective pipes through.
> What a nightmare trying to find them now!.. Will need to open every box and look.


I'll take a look at the serial number and any other identifying information when I get home and let you know.


----------



## neXen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I'll take a look at the serial number and any other identifying information when I get home and let you know.


My cooler has a few pipes like that as well

does this impact cooling capability or is it merely an aesthetic fault?


----------



## Elohim

From my experience this is just an aesthetic thing. Bigger Heatpipes 8mm/10mm are usually not as easy to bend as 6mm ones so this issue is not that rare....

This cooler for example performed exactly as expected...


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elohim*
> 
> From my experience this is just an aesthetic thing. Bigger Heatpipes 8mm/10mm are usually not as easy to bend as 6mm ones so this issue is not that rare....
> 
> This cooler for example performed exactly as expected...


I agree that some crimping in the heat pipes is probably fine. Cooling-wise, mine might be fine too, though I didn't want to go through the trouble of testing it because I looked at a lot of pictures online and the crimping on my PH-TC14PE is worse than anything I could find. So I figured that I would play it safe and return it for a replacement.


----------



## neXen

I figured as much, since my cooler preformed well above my expectations.

Any way i could get my pics added to the club?


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elohim*
> 
> From my experience this is just an aesthetic thing. Bigger Heatpipes 8mm/10mm are usually not as easy to bend as 6mm ones so this issue is not that rare....
> 
> This cooler for example performed exactly as expected...


When you pay a price premium for a Phanteks, Noctua, Thermalright, Prolimatech Megahalems, or other high end air cooler you expect quality.

If something like that gets sent to you marked as new from factory, then as a customer you owe it to yourself and future buyers to sent it back so they tighten QA.

It looks like someone bent it with pliers or a adjustable wrench rather than using a pipe bender.

Just my 2 cents


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Are there anything on box that might indicate when they were made, batch number, etc.?
> Looks like manufacturing somehow let a batch of defective pipes through.
> What a nightmare trying to find them now!.. Will need to open every box and look.


The sticker on the box says PH-TC14PE_BK 13814051.

ls1torq, who also had bent up heat pipes also had the black color like I do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> When you pay a price premium for a Phanteks, Noctua, Thermalright, Prolimatech Megahalems, or other high end air cooler you expect quality.
> 
> If something like that gets sent to you marked as new from factory, then as a customer you owe it to yourself and future buyers to sent it back so they tighten QA.
> 
> It looks like someone bent it with pliers or a adjustable wrench rather than using a pipe bender.
> 
> Just my 2 cents


Yea I paid almost $90 for this CPU cooler, I agree that if I am going to pay a premium price, then they could use a pipe bender on the heat pipes.


----------



## Elohim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> When you pay a price premium for a Phanteks, Noctua, Thermalright, Prolimatech Megahalems, or other high end air cooler you expect quality.
> 
> If something like that gets sent to you marked as new from factory, then as a customer you owe it to yourself and future buyers to sent it back so they tighten QA.
> 
> It looks like someone bent it with pliers or a adjustable wrench rather than using a pipe bender.
> 
> Just my 2 cents


I don't disagree...


----------



## X-PREDATOR

you know that some of those reviewers sometimes photo....shop..their pics...


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> you know that some of those reviewers sometimes photo....shop..their pics...


I looked at dozens of photos. Unless they're all 'shopped then I have the worst example of this CPU cooler that has been photographed that I can find.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

well..i took a gander @ my cooler..the pipes have a little bit of the same prob..but not as bad as yours..and my temps are 100% above exceptional..idles around the 20's & under load(gaming) & phyxs test doesnt go above mid to high 40's..so
if im you..test the cooler first..see what temps yo get..if their outa wack..take screenshots..postem here ..use core temp/hwmonitor/realtemp..whicheva app yo like..and postem to the phanteks rep also..if they deem it unacceptable..send it back for a new 1 for rma


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> well..i took a gander @ my cooler..the pipes have a little bit of the same prob..but not as bad as yours..and my temps are 100% above exceptional..idles around the 20's & under load(gaming) & phyxs test doesnt go above mid to high 40's..so
> if im you..test the cooler first..see what temps yo get..if their outa wack..take screenshots..postem here ..use core temp/hwmonitor/realtemp..whicheva app yo like..and postem to the phanteks rep also..if they deem it unacceptable..send it back for a new 1 for rma


If I had more time I'd try that. I've already initiated a return for replacement with Amazon. Hopefully the replacement is more in line with what Phanteks advertises. I'm sure this CPU cooler is capable of getting the job done for the most part, but I'm also interested in the aesthetics, which that one lacked. I'll report back when the replacement arrives.


----------



## coelacanth

I got the replacement PH-TC14PE yesterday and the crimping on the heat pipes on the new one is slightly better than on the old one, but still a lot more than I was expecting.

Here are the serial numbers of the CPU coolers:

13814051
13814058

So they are only 7 units apart.

Here are some pictures of the new replacement:


----------



## X-PREDATOR

wow??!!
seems they need to get different oem/factory to produce/assemble these...
man..i sure hope itll perform right...
glad to hear they 60% sorted it out..well
like wats been said..my cooler has a few like that..and nothing wrong with temps..im busy at the moment to work my way up to a new OC..my last session resulted in bios crash..
hope to be able to hit my target..my board gets funky when messing with turbo boost to much..and i dont want a 24/7 OC...

anyhooch..hope to see some temps from your setup


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> wow??!!
> seems they need to get different oem/factory to produce/assemble these...
> man..i sure hope itll perform right...
> glad to hear they 60% sorted it out..well
> like wats been said..my cooler has a few like that..and nothing wrong with temps..im busy at the moment to work my way up to a new OC..my last session resulted in bios crash..
> hope to be able to hit my target..my board gets funky when messing with turbo boost to much..and i dont want a 24/7 OC...
> 
> anyhooch..hope to see some temps from your setup


For sure. Right now I'm using a venerable Zalman CNPS9700 LED. I'll do some gaming and benching with HWMonitor and screenshot it.

Then I'll do the same after I install the PH-TC14PE to compare the results.

With the Zalman (which has been installed for a few years now) I used AS5. With the PH-TC14PE I plan to use Xigmatek PTI-G4512 TIM, so it won't exactly be apples-to-apples, but close enough.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

you can use the included tim..it works very well and doesnt need break in


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i used some for work on a friends old pentium d 3ghz..(heat guzzlers) and it nocked of almost 10degrees..he ws idle at 60 now its almost 49°..so try it
ooh '[email protected]@n'..those are old die hard coolers...


----------



## neofury

I'm finally back from my honeymoon and getting back into tweaking my rig. Right now I have G.Skill Sniper which fits snugly under my TC14PE but I want to upgrade to these: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233356

CORSAIR Dominator Platinum 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2666mhz

My question is this. Can I remove the heat spreaders and if I do, does anyone know if it will still run at 2666mhz with stock timings?

I won't be using that air cooler it comes with but may find an alternative use for it just for fun or use it in a future build.


----------



## Dyaems

i want to be a member here, but there is no way for me to buy one in our country =(


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I got the replacement PH-TC14PE yesterday and the crimping on the heat pipes on the new one is slightly better than on the old one, but still a lot more than I was expecting.
> 
> Here are the serial numbers of the CPU coolers:
> 
> 13814051
> 13814058
> 
> So they are only 7 units apart.
> 
> Here are some pictures of the new replacement:


I haven't gotten around to installing the Phanteks PH-TC14PE yet, but I did do some benching of my Zalman CNPS9700, measuring idle and load temps.

I might return the second cooler because the aesthetics of the heat pipes are bothering me.

In addition, while examining the second CPU cooler, I noticed that the top plate on one of the cooling towers wasn't secured on one side and was just flapping loose. I had to bend the little mounting points and insert them where and how they're supposed to attach to get the top plate connected to the heatsink on that side.

I also noticed that there is a patch of something that won't readily come off (glue?) on the underside of one of the bottom fins that is a little smaller than a dime.

Not impressed with Phanteks quality.

Edit:
Decided to return the replacement cooler.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

eish..sorry too hear that mate...maybe phantks are too fixed on getting new stuff on market that their slacking a bit...who knows..to be honest..i would rma with phanteks directly than goin to rma with place of purchase..


----------



## Venom95

Did anyone else have to use a bit of force to get the screws to line up when installing the heatsink to the bracket ? I had to slightly screw one side in, then push down on the top of the heatsinks so the other side would screw into the bracket..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Venom95*
> 
> Did anyone else have to use a bit of force to get the screws to line up when installing the heatsink to the bracket ? I had to slightly screw one side in, then push down on the top of the heatsinks so the other side would screw into the bracket..


Not sure what you mean.
When installing mine I always assemble the mount with crossbar, than tighten the mount screws. This helps when mounting cooler because it makes sure the crossbar screws are aligned properly. Also, a tiny bit of lubricantion crossbar threads makes a big difference... but be very careful not to use too much.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> eish..sorry too hear that mate...maybe phantks are too fixed on getting new stuff on market that their slacking a bit...who knows..to be honest..i would rma with phanteks directly than goin to rma with place of purchase..


I honestly think these are the exception. It looks like a few black coolers, all manufactured at same time, got boxed and shipped from factory... and probably only a couple of retail outlets received these.

It's almost like someone in factory grabbed wrong box.. defective pipe/base units instead of good ones.. and put fins on them.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

true..i agree D..
i was on my way yo order my second cooler..but the retailer that imports them..dont havm listed at the moment..so im gona enquire a bit..maybe they got some of these devective units...i took another look at mine...absolutely none of these issues..except 1/2 pipes havin those minor kinks/bends..but otherwise still stellar perf...slowly workin on getting a new oc goin..

how ya been D...


----------



## Venom95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Not sure what you mean.
> When installing mine I always assemble the mount with crossbar, than tighten the mount screws. This helps when mounting cooler because it makes sure the crossbar screws are aligned properly. Also, a tiny bit of lubricantion crossbar threads makes a big difference... but be very careful not to use too much.


I mounted the cross bar to the cooler base, set the cooler onto the cpu.. Barley screwed in the left side, then had to push down on the right side so that the right screw would grab the stud.. MY question is, is that normal? I assumed it would sit flush and easily screw into place.. With no force..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Venom95*
> 
> I mounted the cross bar to the cooler base, set the cooler onto the cpu.. Barley screwed in the left side, then had to push down on the right side so that the right screw would grab the stud.. MY question is, is that normal? I assumed it would sit flush and easily screw into place.. With no force..


Sounds normal to me. I've only mounted 5 or 6 of these coolers and that's the way they all mounted.









Now my own has been on/off several times and screws now start without any pressure. Assume it's the springs seating after being used for awhile.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

very true..
have you read thru this hole thread?
doyll/me aswell...have explained this countless times...duno if ya agree or not D..?
my best way:
sit cooler flush on top of cpu..with crossbarr pre.attached..but not tightend all the way..just barely..to keep it in place..
then with a little effort..on both ends..the springs screws- start screwing making sure to only turn 3counts..each side..only screw down untill you cant anymore..dont force it..otherwise to much pressure..NOT GOOD.....PS...make sure to only put a small dot thermal paste on either the cpu.center..or base of cooler..or go 50/50..do not spread..youll het a huge mess...hopes this helps


----------



## coelacanth

For kicks I ordered another black PH-TC14PE from Newegg. Curious if its heat pipes will also be all kinked.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

post pics when ya get it please..maybe either the manufacters factories are sliiping....newegg are being nasty..or the middle men - couriers..are tampering with the product..

all i know is something has to be done to rectify these problems..phanteks..i hope you see this...i hope your working on this issue and going to give these unhappy peeps the royall treatment by full refund and replacing the coolers with new error free ones...


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> post pics when ya get it please..maybe either the manufacters factories are sliiping....newegg are being nasty..or the middle men - couriers..are tampering with the product..
> 
> all i know is something has to be done to rectify these problems..phanteks..i hope you see this...i hope your working on this issue and going to give these unhappy peeps the royall treatment by full refund and replacing the coolers with new error free ones...


The first 2 PH-TC14PEs were from Amazon, and within 7 serial numbers of each other. I decided to order one from Newegg to see how it compares to the ones that I got from Amazon. I'll also note the serial number of the Newegg cooler and see how close it is to the 2 Amazon coolers.

I don't know how widespread the problem is, but I'm guessing this is just a bad batch. And I'm sure it will cool perfectly fine, though I'm guessing the kinks do block the effective flow of liquid / vapor in the heat pipes a little bit.

Most of the complaints recently have involved black PH-TC14PEs, and Amazon and Newegg sell the black cooler for $10 - $15 less than the other colors. Maybe there's a bad batch of blacks that they're trying to get rid of by pricing them lower.


----------



## neofury

My newegg one has those etches, but I've gotta tell you, I've got no complaints running 5ghz at max 81c during the Fall. In the summer time it was hitting peaks of 88c on one core. I don't believe they make any difference.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> eish..sorry too hear that mate...maybe phantks are too fixed on getting new stuff on market that their slacking a bit...who knows..to be honest..i would rma with phanteks directly than goin to rma with place of purchase..


This is a good idea. If the Newegg PH-TC14PE is also jacked up, then I'll try to RMA direct to Phanteks.

Rep+!


----------



## Eclipx2

I must have lucked out, mine has nary a mark on it. I'll post a picture later to join the club


----------



## X-PREDATOR

has anybody tried removing the top plate cover of the towers and see if it performs the same with them on?
im itching to remove mine..i like the look of heatpipes....


----------



## Elohim

The top cover is not connected to the heatpipes, it's just there for aesthetic reasons. Even if it would be you wouldn't see a significant difference. Just be Careful hen you remove it, so you dont damage the second fin...
Oh, and please take some pics


----------



## X-PREDATOR

will do..i first need to get a second 1..think im goin black..just need to wait on supply...


----------



## coelacanth

I got my third PH-TC14PE (black) yesterday. They all have the kinked and crimped heat pipes. Here's a recap of where they were purchased and serial numbers.
1) From Amazon - Serial #13814051
2) From Amazon - Serial #13814058
3) From Newegg - Serial #1381403R

Here are some pics of the newest one from Newegg:





I'm not sure if I'll return this one. I guess this is just how they are made nowadays. I was thinking of ordering a blue one to see if it also suffers from the same kinking in the heat pipes.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

you know..i jst saw the similarity..all of.them are from 138.....batch!
this has got to be a bad batch...for if you check thru this whole owners club thread...these are almost the only 1's that are bunched up...

Doyll..your quite tight with phanteks from what ive seen..hows about you hollar at them and get their attention to this issue..for i fear they arent even aware of this?


----------



## doyll

Very possible they are all from same run. All have same first six numbers. Do wonder why last one has the "R" at end of SN.

Also wonder if all 3 were shipped from same order processing facility. As far as I know Amazon only does orders on most product on website and other companies are the actual seller.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

yeah the importer/seller here in sa doesnt list them anymore..i made an enquiry..still waiting for response..ill post here if they have any info..


----------



## JRuxGaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I got my third PH-TC14PE (black) yesterday. They all have the kinked and crimped heat pipes. Here's a recap of where they were purchased and serial numbers.
> 1) From Amazon - Serial #13814051
> 2) From Amazon - Serial #13814058
> 3) From Newegg - Serial #1381403R
> 
> Here are some pics of the newest one from Newegg:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if I'll return this one. I guess this is just how they are made nowadays. I was thinking of ordering a blue one to see if it also suffers from the same kinking in the heat pipes.


You are having some bad luck with this cooler. I had no issues with my first purchase. Good luck, and next time call Phanteks directly; I am sure they would try to help you out.


----------



## vagrant13

My PH-TC14PE (black) came from Newegg with serial #1372602H ordered on September 5th and has the crimped pipes as well. The towers were also not parallel with each other, as in one tower was twisted inward to where was not enough room to install the fan. I had to bend it back out







So far no issues with cooling.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vagrant13*
> 
> My PH-TC14PE (black) came from Newegg with serial #1372602H ordered on September 5th and has the crimped pipes as well. The towers were also not parallel with each other, as in one tower was twisted inward to where was not enough room to install the fan. I had to bend it back out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far no issues with cooling.


Maybe this is why the black ones are cheaper. They're all jacked up.

This is day 3 since in submitted my RMA request (with pictures). Still haven't heard anything from Phanteks.

I also emailed Phanteks support with pictures of all three CPU coolers, serial numbers and place of purchase. Have heard nothing from them either.


----------



## doyll

I know it's hard to be patient but I'm betting they will get it sorted.


----------



## coelacanth

Got a reply from Phanteks RMA:

*"Thank you for contacting us. I will forward your concerns to our headquarters. Quality is very important to us as well as our customer's satisfaction. The heat pipes seems to be affecting mostly the black colors. We know that if you would like to get it refunded from the place you purchased it will be fine as well we will work on getting this issue fixed. If you don't mind getting another color we can exchange your color for you."*

Seems like they are aware there is a problem with the black PH-TC14PEs. I asked for a blue one as a replacement.

Thanks to doyll and X-PREDATOR for the help. Reps for both of you.


----------



## doyll

Blue is the best. . . . well, at least 2nd best.


----------



## neofury

Mine with the problem is black, but like I said before, the cooling is killer on it anyways. Not replacing it for a minor cosmetic reason.


----------



## doyll

As long as you are happy. That's all that matters.


----------



## Elohim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neofury*
> 
> Mine with the problem is black, but like I said before, the cooling is killer on it anyways. Not replacing it for a minor cosmetic reason.


Yeah, on one hand it's a bit annoying to not have a perfect product, on the other hand it's only cosmetic and you'll never ever see this part of your cooler when it's actually inside of your cae as it should be


----------



## X-PREDATOR

hey cool banananas..glad to see theyre sorting you out..
i wanted black originaly..but stock was unavailable/+plus didnt want to wait 2 months..so went with red..
im gona start a new thread ssoon with pics..started with a m-atx mod build today..im using a old packard bell case..theme-black/silver/ferrari red...
aim for it:home media server & download pc.


----------



## rettalking

same. i reckon that this Phanteks cooler will drop £5-10 within a few weeks of its launch


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> hey cool banananas..glad to see theyre sorting you out..
> i wanted black originaly..but stock was unavailable/+plus didnt want to wait 2 months..so went with red..
> im gona start a new thread ssoon with pics..started with a m-atx mod build today..im using a old packard bell case..theme-black/silver/ferrari red...
> aim for it:home media server & download pc.


I got a return shipping label yesterday. I'm leaving for Europe on Saturday so I called them and a nice gentleman at Phanteks said he'd email me the return shipping label, which he did. I'm sending the black cooler back today for a blue replacement.

Your build sounds cool, can't wait to see some pics.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

ive got some pics already..but im gona finish first then add them to my profile or get a thread goin..ditchd the black..goin full throttle ferari red on the whole metal parts of case..inside out..then goin all dragon theme on side panels..still deciding on frontpanel ..any ideas?any are welcome..pm me..
sorri for goin off topic..well
glad to c them replacing the cooler for you..mmm blue..sounds very nice bling bling


----------



## MotoX62

hey guys i was looking at ordering this cooler and wanted to know if my ram would cause a clearance issue. i searched the web site and it just gave a height measurement but is unclear how much the cooler is lifted by resting on cpu and not sure if they measured that too. so basically wondering if any of you have this ram and have tried it. i searched for an answer sorry if i missed it. thanks


----------



## X-PREDATOR

what ram do you have?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotoX62*
> 
> hey guys i was looking at ordering this cooler and wanted to know if my ram would cause a clearance issue. i searched the web site and it just gave a height measurement but is unclear how much the cooler is lifted by resting on cpu and not sure if they measured that too. so basically wondering if any of you have this ram and have tried it. i searched for an answer sorry if i missed it. thanks


Top of CPU is 7-8mm above surface of motherboard. Cooler specs are from CPU surface.


----------



## MotoX62

It's g skill ripjaws x.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Top of CPU is 7-8mm above surface of motherboard. Cooler specs are from CPU surface.


Thanks. That means they are almost the same height then. I am going to have to remeasure then when I get home.


----------



## doyll

You should have 5-6mm clearance depending on how high bottom of RAM is when plugged in.
Pretty sure G.Skill RipjawsX are 40mm and TC14PE is 45mm fin height with 40mm at end tabs.

What is your CPU clearance?
You will need about 174mm CPU clearance (182mm from motherboard) for fan to fit. RAM height & 140mm fan combined clearance for side cover to go on.


----------



## MotoX62

I have the nzxt phantom. So I think it will fit. I will check again to make sure. You do mean CPU cooler clearance with the tower, right? Thanks for the help


----------



## doyll

CPU clearance is the maximum size cooler that will fit in case. The NZXT Phantom has a CPU cooler clearance of 150MM (with the side panel fan) and 180MM (without the side panel fan). At least that's what NZXT website says.


----------



## MotoX62

Yeah I don't have the side panel fan. I thought it was 180. You said I will need 182 mm so it won't fit?


----------



## airisom2

It will fit. If you need to, you can just lower the fans. I'm measuring 177mm from the top of my fans to the base of my motherboard on my phanteks.


----------



## doyll

You will be fine.

I will be very surprised if it does not fit.
Cases specs are usually on the conservative side and my 182mm is probably a couple mm more than needed.. You know.. *180mm CPU clearance*... from top of CPU... plus *7-8mm to motherboard* is *187mm*... minus 43mm for RAM and socket you with 140mm fan means *you have at least 4mm extra to play with*.








My R2 is a tight fit... but case spec is 165mm CPU clearance and my RAM is 30mm (33mm above mobo).


----------



## MotoX62

I just read it needs 171 mm of clearance and nzxt says it has 170 mm.


----------



## MotoX62

Yeah I think it will fit. Worse case I will just have to get that nzxt 820 I have been eyeing.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotoX62*
> 
> Yeah I think it will fit. Worse case I will just have to get that nzxt 820 I have been eyeing.


Where?

Phantom - NZXT
www.nzxt.com/support/index.php?/Knowledgebase/List/Index/.../phanto...‎
The NZXT Phantom has a CPU cooler clearance of 150MM (with the side panel fan) and 180MM (without the side panel fan). Tags: HSF Heatsink CPU cooler ...


----------



## MotoX62

It says on nzxt.com under specs 170mm. That maybe with the side fan though.


----------



## doyll

Very strange. They say in FAQ 150mm & 180mm without side fan..


----------



## MotoX62

I thought it was odd myself. I got confirmation about the ram working though from g skill so that's nice. Just got to make sure with the case


----------



## doyll

Well cooler will fit no problem. Worst case is you put fan on back of cooler and back of first core in pull/pull instead of push/push.


----------



## MotoX62

Shouldn't have an issue with the fans I would think since g skill said it would be fine. Just winding if my panel will be able to close. Thanks again for the help though


----------



## X-PREDATOR

moto ...
if 140mm wont allow you to close..then get 120mm fans..to get a clear idea of your case:

http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/motherboards/18707-asus-p8z77-v-lga1155-motherboard-review?start=9

http://www.google.com/m?q=ph+tc14pe+installation+in+phatom&client=ms-opera-mini-android&channel=new

and their all talking about the mid 410/full 620 versions
the new phantom...820 or 630?

http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/125-phantom-630-window-edition.html

http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/96-phantom-820-full-tower-caes.html


----------



## X-PREDATOR

http://www.overclock.net/t/1106307/official-phanteks-ph-tc14pe-news-discussion-and-owners-thread/1040


----------



## doyll

X got it! There are 5 different Phantom cases!
Phantom is 222mm wide 170mm CPU clearance.
Phantom 410 is 215mm wide no CPU clearance specified
Phantom 530 is 235mm wide CPU Cooler 282mm (With Pivot Fan) Whatever that means.
Phantom 630 is 245mm wide no CPU clearance specified
Phantom 630 widow edition is 245mm wide CPU Cooler 170mm/200mm (Without side panel fan)
Phantom 820 is 235mm wide CPU Cooler 153mm / 183mm without fan


----------



## MotoX62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> moto ...
> if 140mm wont allow you to close..then get 120mm fans..to get a clear idea of your case:
> 
> http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/motherboards/18707-asus-p8z77-v-lga1155-motherboard-review?start=9
> 
> http://www.google.com/m?q=ph+tc14pe+installation+in+phatom&client=ms-opera-mini-android&channel=new
> 
> and their all talking about the mid 410/full 620 versions
> the new phantom...820 or 630?
> 
> http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/125-phantom-630-window-edition.html
> 
> http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/96-phantom-820-full-tower-caes.html


thanks a lot that one video seemed like definitive proof to me.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

glad to help out mate..can any1 here maybe pm me..tell me a bit about this amazing dude who was a legend here at ocn and died recently..i wish to salute him and his family..?

yeah the phantoms are awsome cases..im thinking of getting a couple of them.only gripe i got with them are the not so flat front panel...keep fingers crossed peeps..ive got huge amount of stock coming in..couple mobos/cpus etc...hope i can get these mods done this week/then the new setups up..running..and sold quickly...pc market is almost dead here..most folks are goin mobile route...
moto if your thinking of upgrading to bigger case..look @ the new phanteks enthoo primo full tower..total beast..ellegant..sexy..very versetile...


----------



## MotoX62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> moto if your thinking of upgrading to bigger case..look @ the new phanteks enthoo primo full tower..total beast..ellegant..sexy..very versetile...


dang that case is clean looking i really like the ssd side bays. my only issue with my tower now is how easily it gets finger print smudges. should have the new cooler in a few weeks, its a present from the girlfriend.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

well you should be maybe a little bit more carefull what yu do bfor workin/touching the case then..i..me..wash my hands each time before i go near my setup..blow dry with hair dryer..a persons hands are naturaly sweaty/moist..
i also keep a set of microfibre cloths nearby to wipe off case/mouse/keyboard/screen/basicly the whole setup..before/after ive worked with it..keeps it fingerlicking good(kfc) and clean.ill even vacuum the inside or use lowpressure setup on a compressor..to clean/blow inside dust out..1's every week.

you see im not dissing ya..im just very fanatic about having a clean setup..my pc isnt just a pc..its my meal ticket..every time i show it to a client..its dead certainty to them that i know my shiznizz.besides this..i dont like looking at a dirty setup cause it costs a lota money..money that doesnt come so easyily..

well my next case is gona be the primo..if i can somehow get someway to have 1 of my suppliers import it...along with some other nice goodies.
an option to keep it clean also is to wear gloves/antistatic


----------



## MotoX62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> well you should be maybe a little bit more carefull what yu do bfor workin/touching the case then..i..me..wash my hands each time before i go near my setup..blow dry with hair dryer..a persons hands are naturaly sweaty/moist..
> i also keep a set of microfibre cloths nearby to wipe off case/mouse/keyboard/screen/basicly the whole setup..before/after ive worked with it..keeps it fingerlicking good(kfc) and clean.ill even vacuum the inside or use lowpressure setup on a compressor..to clean/blow inside dust out..1's every week.
> 
> you see im not dissing ya..im just very fanatic about having a clean setup..my pc isnt just a pc..its my meal ticket..every time i show it to a client..its dead certainty to them that i know my shiznizz.besides this..i dont like looking at a dirty setup cause it costs a lota money..money that doesnt come so easyily..
> 
> well my next case is gona be the primo..if i can somehow get someway to have 1 of my suppliers import it...along with some other nice goodies.
> an option to keep it clean also is to wear gloves/antistatic


oh i keep it clean looking. i have a special microfiber cloth that sits in my desk for just when i have to touch it. i have to do the same thing with the keyboard. i hate smudges. lol.
i have to to take a dust cloth to the inside the case almost every week. how do you clean you cpu cooler? i struggle with this one.


----------



## doyll

I use a portable air compressor with hose and blow gun. Make sure you drain the tank drain the tank before and after each use and regulate the pressure to about 50psi.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

agreed..what d..said..a very soft ..very*infinity..soft white paint brush..the kind used for wood...brush gently to get dust build up loosend then take that air gun to it..i vacuumd mine a week ago..this week gona clean the fans...then maybe replace all of'm with new ones..then taking these to use in the mods im workin on on my matx build..

word of cuation...dont put the airgun..when usin comprressooosssrrr..tooo close to the cooler..itll make nasty airspots..hence why D..said...keep pressure low...


----------



## MotoX62

thanks a lot. yeah i have been trying to get the dust out of mycooler and i definitely need the compressor. how do you stop it from going everywhere though? take it outside i guess...


----------



## X-PREDATOR

you can take your sidepanels off...take fans out...then keep a vaccuum handy and maybe ask sm1 to help..as you blow ..or ..brush dust..then use vacuum to suck up the dust..for extra safety yo can take a thin piece of cloth and tape/tie it around the mouth of the vacuum hose ..itll keep you from accidently scratchin smthin plus it acts as a dust filter..luckily i got a nozzle about 2-3mm..so very tiny..i can go into small tight angles..im gonna make my own flexible hose nozzle from tubing or smthing..so i can work more freely and safely


----------



## Venom95

I love this cooler...


----------



## X-PREDATOR

ooh i like those green extensions...what case is that?phantom?
why yo gpu in 2nd pcie?does it affect any perf? black phtc14pe...black black kick the heat back..once yo go black you can never look back


----------



## Venom95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> ooh i like those green extensions...what case is that?phantom?
> why yo gpu in 2nd pcie?does it affect any perf? black phtc14pe...black black kick the heat back..once yo go black you can never look back


It's a switch810 case, the cables are not extensions... They are corsair's green sleeved cable kit for the Ax1200i... My GPU is actually in the 3rd slot of the board.... Not sure if it affects performance or not because the cooler is blocking my first slot, I had to settle for the 2nd x16 lane PCI-E


----------



## doyll

2nd PCI-E x16.. 5th slot on motherboard.

Really like your white, green and black theme. Looks really good.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

cool bananana..im just curious about that gpu orientation..makes me wana try it..
ok green?mmm..makes me think of popye's spinach..packs quite a punch..


----------



## Venom95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 2nd PCI-E x16.. 5th slot on motherboard.
> 
> Really like your white, green and black theme. Looks really good.


Thank you








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> cool bananana..im just curious about that gpu orientation..makes me wana try it..
> ok green?mmm..makes me think of popye's spinach..packs quite a punch..


If it were up to me, I would have put it in the first x16 slot... I just didn't have a choice with the cooler







...


----------



## neofury

Great cable management, so much better than mine lol.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Venom95*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it were up to me, I would have put it in the first x16 slot... I just didn't have a choice with the cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Will any coolers clear the 1st slot? It's a PCIE x4 on most boards now. Isn't the performance the same for both x16 slots on your board?


----------



## neofury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Will any coolers clear the 1st slot? It's a PCIE x4 on most boards now. Isn't the performance the same for both x16 slots on your board?


I've heard the difference between the PCIE slots in terms of having multiple x16 etc, is pretty negligible to begin with, so I'm sure he's fine in another slot.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

awsome..can any1 tell me of a shop thatll ship cougar vortex pwm fans directly to me in sa..


----------



## BKinn

I have some updated photos of my build since my old motherboard crapped out on me. I was able to pick up a Asus Sabertooth Z77 on ebay for pretty cheap to replace my Gigabyte. I know this isn't completely on topic but I LOVE how this cooler looks in my build and you guys always have some good points.


----------



## doyll

It looks very nice. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## neofury

Those fans gold? Looks tight man, good job.


----------



## doyll

I was wondering that myself. Fan housing, PCIE slot covers, HHD mounts.


----------



## BKinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neofury*
> 
> Those fans gold? Looks tight man, good job.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I was wondering that myself. Fan housing, PCIE slot covers, HHD mounts.


Thanks to you both! Yeah, the fans are gold. I still need to do the front ones. The Pcie covers, HDD mounts, and my north bridge/south bridge on my old motherboard were all powder coated gold. The fans were just painted with gold spay paint.


----------



## omgoblins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BKinn*
> 
> Thanks to you both! Yeah, the fans are gold. I still need to do the front ones. The Pcie covers, HDD mounts, and my north bridge/south bridge on my old motherboard were all powder coated gold. The fans were just painted with gold spay paint.


Very nice build, I love your aesthetics, it's what I am going for in my build. I started off Red/Black in a CM Storm Enforcer case using an AIO cpu cooler, but when my motherboard died I got an excellent deal on a 3570k basically just trading it for a 5870 I had picked up for cheap. So as I was looking at boards I came across an ECS Z77H2-A2X for sale on ebay for very cheap. It's a limited release board (200) and this was a reviewer sample which turned out to be 003/200. Everything has been great with it so far, but I just haven't been able to pull together a theme. I'm about to switch up some parts and try to get that nice gold look you have.

810 Switch
3570K
Z77H2-AX2
This is where things start getting hard. I have 2x MSI R7950/OC TF. I would love to get some gold on these, but IDK. It's a pain because the gunmetal doesn't blend with the black all that great either.
16gb Samsung 30 nm ram. No heatsinks, I want to add something though. I wish I could rip my extra ripjaws heatsinks off. I had red ripjaws before and love how yours look gold.
Seasonic 750 Gold so that's already got a nice gold scheme, although I'm MORE than a little tempted to run it "up-side down" because the nice looking graphics are on the back side /smh.
I will just be spray painting the fan shrouds and other little things like the PCIE covers. That's brilliant with the HDD trays though.

The thing I am conflicted on was the Phantek which I will be buying to replace this AIO cooler. At first I didn't notice they even had a black and I had decided on buying the orange as I thought the metallic looked copper-ish which was better than silver. Now seeing how your black one looks I'm unsure. Did you ever think about using the orange Phantek?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

awsome scheme..how did you do that gold on those areas?
did you remove the pci slots and stuff?


----------



## Mtom

I just got my Phanteks a few weeks ago, and so far it is awesome, i gained 6-7C compared to my K2 in prime95.
My only concern is that the fans are noisy a bit, even iuf not at full speed they make whoosh noise, so i slapped on two Wing Boost 140s.
These guys are really quiet, but as they are only run around 1000-1100rpm not 1300 as the Phanteks ones, i lost a bit of temp.
You guys have any suggestion for powerful, but really quiet 140mm fans? PWM of course.

Ah talking about pwm, the supplied pwm to 3 pin cable has a 3 pin end( obviously), but the y cable which i supposed to plkug in it has a 4 pin pwm end....really lame Phanteks for a top notch cooler.

Heres the ghetto look of the black phanteks with black/blue fans:


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mtom*
> 
> Ah talking about pwm, the supplied pwm to 3 pin cable has a 3 pin end( obviously), but the y cable which i supposed to plkug in it has a 4 pin pwm end....really lame Phanteks for a top notch cooler.
> 
> Heres the ghetto look of the black phanteks with black/blue fans:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I don't think it's lame at all.
The PWM adapter supplied by Phanteks uses 4pin PWM signal to control 3pin voltage to 2 fan supplied.

i have red phanteks and use TY-143 fans. Red fan housings look good with red cooler.









Many think two of the best 140mm PWM fans today are TY-140 & Scythe Kaze Maru 2 Slip Stream PWM
http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/120mm_and_140mm_fan_comparison,22.html

Thermalright TY-147 $16.99 Same fan as TY-140.
http://www.amazon.com/TY-147-ball-bearing-noise-emission/dp/B00A4QB4SW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1381089484&sr=1-1&keywords=ty-147

Scythe Kaze Maru 2 Slip Stream 140mm x 25mm Fan (120mm Mount) - PWM w/ Adjustable VR (SM1425SL12HPVC-V) $12.98
http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Stream-140mm-120mm-Mount/dp/B0032A0QDQ


----------



## Mtom

Thanks for the reply, ill look at those fans.

As for lameness...i think it is...the manual tells me to plug the Y-splitter (number 2.) to the PWM converter (number 1.)
Now look at the picture, and tell me how am i supposed to plug it in:


----------



## doyll

Me thinks Phanteks screwed up.









Looks like a PWM adapter and a PWM splitter.

I would call Phanteks
https://www.phanteks.com/Contact.html

and also contact Phanteks support
https://www.phanteks.com/requestform.html

This is what came with mine


You need a simple 3pin fan splitter like above. You could modify your PWM adaptor (1) 3pin socket by cutting out the left side with a pair of small side cutters or a razor saw. This will allow the PWM splitter plug go fit into the 3pin socket with the blue wire side fitting into the opening you cut. The blue 4th wire is the PWM signal lead to PWM fan and is not used by 3 pin fans.

Phanteks has very good customer service. Their rep has helped many here on forum too.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

personaly id have a look at these rather instead.theyre quick,easy and reliable to use...
http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=2&cid=11&id=31

http://www.swiftech.com/8-waypwmsplitter.aspx

and are alreaydy sleaved if that helps at all...


----------



## doyll

Do catch up with what the problem is X-PREDATOR.









Why would Mtom want to spend money on a PWM splitter? The splitter he has is PWM.









He only wants to use his new Phanteks 3 pin fans on his new Phanteks cooler.

Mtom's cooler came with the wrong Y-splitter, a 4 pin PWM splitter (probably what is supplied with PH-TC12DX for it's PWM fans). The PWM adapter has 4 pin plug to motherboard and 3 pin socket. The 3 pin fans plug into the Y-splitter no problem, but obviously the 4 pin splitter plug will not plug into the 3 pin socket. So why not just cut the side of socket so the 4 pin plug will fit onto it.? It's a simple modification and does no damage. It just allows 4 pin plug to fit.

The first 3 pins on PWM 4 pin fan are the same as a 3 pin fan; 1 = Gnd, 2 = 12v or variable voltage, 3 = rpm.. and 4 = PWM signal . And you can plug a 3 pin fan into a 4 pin socket or plug a 4pin fan into a 3 pin socket.. but the end of the socket must be open to allow the 4th pin part of plug into the 3 pin socket housing.


My guess is Phanteks is already sending another PWM adapter and 3 pin Y-splitter.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

im up to speed..i only gave a suggestion:
" personaly id have a look "

i gave my opinion..not solution..cause you were already doin a stellar job helpin out..i ddnt wana budge in btween...
what your suggestioning is quick..easy..works great..i did it to all my fancontrollers 3pin cables..works great ..i used a small pair of sidecutter to cut..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> im up to speed..i only gave a suggestion:
> " personaly id have a look "
> 
> i gave my opinion..not solution..cause you were already doin a stellar job helpin out..i ddnt wana budge in btween...
> what your suggestioning is quick..easy..works great..i did it to all my fancontrollers 3pin cables..works great ..i used a small pair of sidecutter to cut..


*Your "suggestion" will not work*. They both have 12v power supplied by PSU.. meaning fans would run full speed all the time.


----------



## Mtom

Thanks for the tips guys, but Phanteks contacted me here on the forum with a private message to send my address to their email, and they will send a new adapter.
Top notch Customer Care!

Also i decided to go with two TY-147 fans, they are more quiet than the phanteks ones, but gave me the same performance.

So far the cooler is awesome.


----------



## doyll

Are you using the splitter that came with your cooler on the TY-147 fans?

Indeed. Phanteks has very good customer service.


----------



## MotoX62

phantek in case.JPG 1563k .JPG file


just got it in the case yesterday. it is so massive, it took longer than expected due to the interesting mounting system.
but it is working great. i have it now overclocked to 4.8 gHz and it is prime 95 stable. i am getting temps colder than my
hyper 212+ when it was overclocked to 4.5 gHz. this thing is a beast.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

welcome to da phanteks pa-r-ty...bro.


----------



## Mtom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Are you using the splitter that came with your cooler on the TY-147 fans?
> 
> Nope, i have two cpu fan headers on my board, so dont need splitter.


----------



## ricklen

Does this CPU cooler fit easy in a Cooler Master CM690 II advanced?? anyone have some photos?


----------



## doyll

Yes it fits.

CM690 II CPU cooler height = 177mm
http://www.coolermaster.com/product/Detail/case/mid-tower-cm690-series/cm-690-ii-plus-nvidia-edition-usb3.html

Here's link to one
http://pliersonpcs.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/phanteks-ph-tc14pe-one-of-kings-of-cool.html


----------



## renji1337

Will this cooler block the first PCI-E slot on my Z77 UD3H mobo?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> Will this cooler block the first PCI-E slot on my Z77 UD3H mobo?


What is the distance from the center of CPU to the first PCI-E slot?


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What is the distance from the center of CPU to the first PCI-E slot?


Where would I find that? this is my mobo http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128544

I use the top small pci-e slot for my sound card


----------



## X-PREDATOR

that boards got 3 pcie 1 slots..why not move your sound card to the lowest possable 1? or are you running sli config?
there should be a gap between this beast and your gpu? but your hona have to move the sound card if it doesnt...just my opion.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> that boards got 3 pcie 1 slots..why not move your sound card to the lowest possable 1? or are you running sli config?
> there should be a gap between this beast and your gpu? but your hona have to move the sound card if it doesnt...just my opion.


I'd personally throw the sound card in the very bottom PCI-E 16x slot, keep it well out of the way.


----------



## theKab

Hey guys. It says in the compatibility guide for this one that it should work with an Asus P8Z77-V mobo. I am wondering if it would cover my first pci-e slot(2nd expansion slot)? I think I have "low" enough RAM too, the Kingston HyperX 10th anniversary modules? Does anyone have the P8Z77-V + PH-TC14PE combination?

This cooler looks awesome and the fact that you can get different colors is really nice! Thanks in advance for any answers.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> Where would I find that? this is my mobo http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128544
> 
> I use the top small pci-e slot for my sound card


You will have to measure it.. with a ruler from the middle of CPU (cooler) to back of sound card
Probably will not work with sound card in top slot. What is the reason for putting sound card in top slot?


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You will have to measure it.. with a ruler from the middle of CPU (cooler) to back of sound card
> Probably will not work with sound card in top slot. What is the reason for putting sound card in top slot?


SLI.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> SLI.


"Houston, we have a problem."
What audio card do you have?

Could you use the 2nd and 4th slots for SLI and 7th (bottom) slot for audio card?
1st PCI-E x1
2nd PCI-E 3.0 x16, x8
3rd PCI-E x1
4th PCI-E x1
5th PCI-E 3.0 x16, x8
6th PCI
7th PCI-E 2.0 x16


----------



## theKab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theKab*
> 
> Hey guys. It says in the compatibility guide for this one that it should work with an Asus P8Z77-V mobo. I am wondering if it would cover my first pci-e slot(2nd expansion slot)? I think I have "low" enough RAM too, the Kingston HyperX 10th anniversary modules? Does anyone have the P8Z77-V + PH-TC14PE combination?
> 
> This cooler looks awesome and the fact that you can get different colors is really nice! Thanks in advance for any answers.


I guess you probably need measures to answer me too. I measured it, but from the middle of the stock CPU cooler(I supposed that equals the middle of the CPU) and there's about 90mm clearance down to my 2nd expansion PCI-E slot. There's still 2-3mm from the beginning of that slow to the actual GPU. Will that be enough?


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> "Houston, we have a problem."
> What audio card do you have?
> 
> Could you use the 2nd and 4th slots for SLI and 7th (bottom) slot for audio card?
> 1st PCI-E x1
> 2nd PCI-E 3.0 x16, x8
> 3rd PCI-E x1
> 4th PCI-E x1
> 5th PCI-E 3.0 x16, x8
> 6th PCI
> 7th PCI-E 2.0 x16


my audio card is a titanium HD. and I use 2 2 slot gfx cards, wind-force 670's.

also my 7th slot is pci-e 2.0 x4 not x16


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> my audio card is a titanium HD. and I use 2 2 slot gfx cards, wind-force 670's.
> 
> also my 7th slot is pci-e 2.0 x4 not x16


Have you tried running your audio card in the bottom slot? Probably raise the bottom 670's temp but might not make it any hotter than top 670 is.

If your 7th PCI-E is not 2.0 x16 than the link you supplied to Newegg is wrong. That's what I referenced to.


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have you tried running your audio card in the bottom slot? Probably raise the bottom 670's temp but might not make it any hotter than top 670 is.
> 
> If your 7th PCI-E is not 2.0 x16 than the link you supplied to Newegg is wrong. That's what I referenced to.


on newegg it says PCI Express 2.0 x16
1 @x4

so it runs at x4 im guessing. I could try sound card down there. fans may hit it though


----------



## X-PREDATOR

is yous sure?neweggi doesnt do decent discriptions always..look at this
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4153&m=n#ov

its the gigabyte page..were your suppoos too look at true specci of boardi yous gonnas buys?


----------



## renji1337

It doesnt matter because I just tried my sound card in every slot, theres no way it will work in any slot but the top PCI-E x1 slot because my gpu's fans extend a tiny bit farther out then the cooler.

I did just get a NH-D14 that'll be here this week, but its for another computer, but I will have to try it and see if maybe my soundcard gets away with 2-5mm of space atleast? My 212+ is 140mm and the NH D14 Is 160mm. so about .8 of an inch. and it looks like i got .10 of a inch space. If it doesnt fit obv i couldnt get a tc14pe, i'd have to get a AIO or a different cooler.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

why are is it a must for sound card ..these boards have stellar onboard sound capabilities already...if i had to choose..id go sli or sell and get 1 single monstorous 780..put the soundcard in lower pciex1 get the phtc14pe and be happy to know youve got the best of 3 things..awsome sound...great gpu..less heat than sli and power consumption..plus the best air cooler ever..
just my two cents of an opinion..
honestly..ditch the soundcard..get this bsdboy..you wont be dissapointed


----------



## doyll

The difference between onboard audio and a quality audio card is dramatic... assuming you have amp and speaker of similar quality.

For example I'm using a X58A-UD5 under Xonar D2X audio card into Klipsh Promedai 5.1. The difference is like comparing a alarm clock radio to full component stereo system.


----------



## neXen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theKab*
> 
> Hey guys. It says in the compatibility guide for this one that it should work with an Asus P8Z77-V mobo. I am wondering if it would cover my first pci-e slot(2nd expansion slot)? I think I have "low" enough RAM too, the Kingston HyperX 10th anniversary modules? Does anyone have the P8Z77-V + PH-TC14PE combination?
> 
> This cooler looks awesome and the fact that you can get different colors is really nice! Thanks in advance for any answers.


I am running the ph TC149e on a Asus P8Z77 V-Pro

I have my GPU in my first PCIE slot with no issues


----------



## theKab

Yeah that's literally the same layout, It's on the second expansion slot on the case right? Thanks for the reply neXen


----------



## neXen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theKab*
> 
> Yeah that's literally the same layout, It's on the second expansion slot on the case right? Thanks for the reply neXen


I believe so, i didnt really think about it as i just popped the card in and then secured the thumbscrews


----------



## X-PREDATOR

doyll..your correct in your statement..but what would be better..a h100i/h110 with alota software bs...or a install once off clean in 6months..always cool running cpu cooler..
thats what i was tryin to point to the op who asked....
but its ultimately his choice..we can only give the padowan guidence into the light of the force..
if he wants safe but great cooling heres an alternative perhaps

http://www.techpowerup.com/mobile/reviews/phanteks/ph-tc12dx/1.html

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835146011 but use 120mm fans on this 1.
these are almost on par with cooling perfomance granted that he doesnt go crazy with OCs


----------



## theKab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neXen*
> 
> I believe so, i didnt really think about it as i just popped the card in and then secured the thumbscrews


Allright, just ordered it and 2 more fans+splitters for the case, got really good prices with some discounts. I'll have it late next week so will probably be back with some more questions! Looking forward to this


----------



## X-PREDATOR

cool dude...lookin forward to some shots*pics*
of before & after....


----------



## coelacanth

I'm still waiting on my replacement cooler.

I got back from Europe and emailed them Monday morning to send the replacement cooler. I sent a follow-up email this morning. Haven't heard anything from Phanteks.


----------



## bandots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I'm still waiting on my replacement cooler.
> 
> I got back from Europe and emailed them Monday morning to send the replacement cooler. I sent a follow-up email this morning. Haven't heard anything from Phanteks.


whats problem with your cooler bro


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bandots*
> 
> whats problem with your cooler bro


I ordered a black one and the heat pipes were all kinked. Got a replacement and same thing. Got another replacement and same thing. I called Phanteks to do an RMA through them (rather than Newegg and Amazon, which I had been doing) and they said they are having problems with the black ones and they said they'd ship me a different color. I shipped the third black one back to them and told them to ship me the blue one but it's been radio silence ever since Monday this past week. I'm not in a rush but waiting around with no response to my last two emails isn't terribly great.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

well it seems that this issue is on a global scale..my suppliers here in S.A are no longer importing phanteks..due to these issues and apparently they had major cooling issues with these faulty units..now they claim to be happier with d.14..

if theres a rep around here :
phanteks..i hope u get your act straight and sort all this out.plus please pm me..i want to become a distributor for you.


----------



## bandots

i wonder how , if phanteks factory doesn't have QC process and what technique they do to bent heatpipe with pliers


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I got a return shipping label yesterday. I'm leaving for Europe on Saturday so I called them and a nice gentleman at Phanteks said he'd email me the return shipping label, which he did. I'm sending the black cooler back today for a blue replacement..


Last week Phanteks was extremely busy organizing and shipping all the pre-ordered Enthoo Primo cases. I'm sure you will be hearing from them now that the Enthoo Primo cases are shipped.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I ordered a black one and the heat pipes were all kinked. Got a replacement and same thing. Got another replacement and same thing. I called Phanteks to do an RMA through them (rather than Newegg and Amazon, which I had been doing) and they said they are having problems with the black ones and they said they'd ship me a different color. I shipped the third black one back to them and told them to ship me the blue one but it's been radio silence ever since Monday this past week. I'm not in a rush but waiting around with no response to my last two emails isn't terribly great.


In Phanteks' defense, they paid for your return post and as you were leaving for Europe you asked them to delay posting your replacement... And all the black coolers are from the same production run.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I got a return shipping label yesterday. I'm leaving for Europe on Saturday so I called them and a nice gentleman at Phanteks said he'd email me the return shipping label, which he did. I'm sending the black cooler back today for a blue replacement.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> well it seems that this issue is on a global scale..my suppliers here in S.A are no longer importing phanteks..due to these issues and apparently they had major cooling issues with these faulty units..now they claim to be happier with d.14..
> 
> if theres a rep around here :
> phanteks..i hope u get your act straight and sort all this out.plus please pm me..i want to become a distributor for you.


Could you please post verification of your above statement? Like the email you received from your supplier saying they what you are claiming.

The only problems I've seen have been here; the kinked pipes on black coolers. I remember someone have a problem with no threads on a mounting screw but can't remember any significant problems except these pipe issues... which some users say does not effect cooling.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

my email has an auto delete after i read mail.....but i can give you company name..
www.evetech.co.za
they said to me they werent satisfied with overall performance...


----------



## doyll

I find it suspect with so many companies selling Phanteks products a small company in SA with only 8 coolers listed (4x Corsair, 3x Noctua & 1x NZXT) on their website is saying they were not satisfied with Phanteks products.









I cannot submit a question on their site (times out & error message).

As for becoming a Phanteks retailer you can contact Phanteks through their website.


----------



## neofury

I have the black one with the kinked pipes.

Is cooling 1.45v 5ghz 3770k on air and keeping it anywhere from 80-87c tops depending on ambient, "bad performance".
(during stress I get those temps, rarely breaks 60 from reg use)

Just curious cause the kinks logically would not make a difference. They aren't broken off, they aren't smaller than the normal pipes, they just have kink marks. That isn't going to affect cooling, it's only going to affect the appearance which for me, I have fans covering them.

I could understand returning the product if you're very OCD about that type of thing, or if the cooling performance didn't work, but doing multiple RMA's etc for the same product? At that point, I'd either choose a new product or live with the kinks.

I buy air cooling for the performance, not the look. The thing is already a monster with fans running like --->







on it









But hey, I can understand if people are really hung up on the cosmetic aspect, it's just, you can't ever really see the kinks.


----------



## neXen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neofury*
> 
> I have the black one with the kinked pipes.
> 
> Is cooling 1.45v 5ghz 3770k on air and keeping it anywhere from 80-87c tops depending on ambient, "bad performance".
> (during stress I get those temps, rarely breaks 60 from reg use)
> 
> Just curious cause the kinks logically would not make a difference. They aren't broken off, they aren't smaller than the normal pipes, they just have kink marks. That isn't going to affect cooling, it's only going to affect the appearance which for me, I have fans covering them.
> 
> I could understand returning the product if you're very OCD about that type of thing, or if the cooling performance didn't work, but doing multiple RMA's etc for the same product? At that point, I'd either choose a new product or live with the kinks.
> 
> I buy air cooling for the performance, not the look. The thing is already a monster with fans running like --->
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But hey, I can understand if people are really hung up on the cosmetic aspect, it's just, you can't ever really see the kinks.


Agreed.

The Heatsink looks fantastic when mounted and the pipes are never seen at any angle.

I have it on my 3570k @ 4.8 and it does not go above ~65 everyday use & ~85 stress testing


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neofury*
> 
> I have the black one with the kinked pipes.
> 
> Is cooling 1.45v 5ghz 3770k on air and keeping it anywhere from 80-87c tops depending on ambient, "bad performance".
> (during stress I get those temps, rarely breaks 60 from reg use)
> 
> Just curious cause the kinks logically would not make a difference. They aren't broken off, they aren't smaller than the normal pipes, they just have kink marks. That isn't going to affect cooling, it's only going to affect the appearance which for me, I have fans covering them.
> 
> I could understand returning the product if you're very OCD about that type of thing, or if the cooling performance didn't work, but doing multiple RMA's etc for the same product? At that point, I'd either choose a new product or live with the kinks.
> 
> I buy air cooling for the performance, not the look. The thing is already a monster with fans running like --->
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But hey, I can understand if people are really hung up on the cosmetic aspect, it's just, you can't ever really see the kinks.


To each their own. I wanted the black one but Phanteks told me those are the problem ones, so I opted for the blue. Some people will say, "well this wasn't what was advertised, but good enough, I'll rarely see the defects, so it's cool." Some of us won't.

A scratched up and dented Ferrari still goes fast. I like my stuff to be pristine, why settle for the defective version (even if it cools just as well as the advertised version) if you can get one that isn't all mangled?

In the end, a little bit of trouble discovering that the black ones are having manufacturing problems and then (hopefully) getting a pristine blue one soon is worth it, because I know that this is a great CPU cooler.


----------



## neXen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> To each their own. I wanted the black one but Phanteks told me those are the problem ones, so I opted for the blue. Some people will say, "well this wasn't what was advertised, but good enough, I'll rarely see the defects, so it's cool." Some of us won't.
> 
> A scratched up and dented Ferrari still goes fast. I like my stuff to be pristine, why settle for the defective version (even if it cools just as well as the advertised version) if you can get one that isn't all mangled?
> 
> In the end, a little bit of trouble discovering that the black ones are having manufacturing problems and then (hopefully) getting a pristine blue one soon is worth it, because I know that this is a great CPU cooler.


Let's say that in this scenario a Ferrari would be the same % of your disposable income as the Heatsink is to your current disposable income.

This Ferrari is your dream car. It is literally perfect in its functions and looks fantastic when driving 100% of the time.

You notice a nick in the metal plating underneath the car, a purely cosmetic imperfection.

You would fault Ferrari for this nick?

You would ask for them to replace this car?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neXen*
> 
> Let's say that in this scenario a Ferrari would be the same % of your disposable income as the Heatsink is to your current disposable income.
> 
> This Ferrari is your dream car. It is literally perfect in its functions and looks fantastic when driving 100% of the time.
> 
> You notice a nick in the metal plating underneath the car, a purely cosmetic imperfection.
> 
> You would fault Ferrari for this nick?
> 
> You would ask for them to replace this car?


Not the same.









More like you notice the under chassis side of wheels have imperfections in them.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neXen*
> 
> Let's say that in this scenario a Ferrari would be the same % of your disposable income as the Heatsink is to your current disposable income.
> 
> This Ferrari is your dream car. It is literally perfect in its functions and looks fantastic when driving 100% of the time.
> 
> You notice a nick in the metal plating underneath the car, a purely cosmetic imperfection.
> 
> You would fault Ferrari for this nick?


Absolutely I would fault them for the damage and try to get it fixed. Who else would be at fault?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neXen*
> 
> You would ask for them to replace this car?


If my Ferrari had a nick from the factory, I'd ask them to fix it. If it were possible to fix the heat pipes and I get a pristine CPU cooler back from Phanteks, then that would be fine with me. Replacing the CPU cooler (rather than fixing it) was their call, not mine.


----------



## BKinn

I purchased a black one on 4/22/2013 from newegg and it seems as though I was lucky not to have the kink issues. This is clearly a quality control issue. Something must be going on for all of these to slip by when they had previously been fine. I am surprised at their slow response to it all though. I hope all gets sorted out!


----------



## neXen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Not the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More like you notice the under chassis side of wheels have imperfections in them.


Lol, i used that example because you will never see the pipes in everyday use.

Just like you will not see the underside nick in the paint.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Absolutely I would fault them for the damage and try to get it fixed. Who else would be at fault?
> If my Ferrari had a nick from the factory, I'd ask them to fix it. If it were possible to fix the heat pipes and I get a pristine CPU cooler back from Phanteks, then that would be fine with me. Replacing the CPU cooler (rather than fixing it) was their call, not mine.


Have you even seen a picture where the heatpipes had no kinks in it?



Every image i see, the cooler has kinks in the heatpipe?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neXen*
> 
> Lol, i used that example because you will never see the pipes in everyday use.
> 
> Just like you will not see the underside nick in the paint.
> Have you even seen a picture where the heatpipes had no kinks in it?
> 
> 
> 
> Every image i see, the cooler has kinks in the heatpipe?


I have looked at literally hundreds of pictures of this heatsink. The picture you posted is nothing like the pictures I posted. If the CPU cooler I got looked like that I'd have been very happy.


----------



## neofury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> To each their own. I wanted the black one but Phanteks told me those are the problem ones, so I opted for the blue. Some people will say, "well this wasn't what was advertised, but good enough, I'll rarely see the defects, so it's cool." Some of us won't.
> 
> A scratched up and dented Ferrari still goes fast. I like my stuff to be pristine, why settle for the defective version (even if it cools just as well as the advertised version) if you can get one that isn't all mangled?
> 
> In the end, a little bit of trouble discovering that the black ones are having manufacturing problems and then (hopefully) getting a pristine blue one soon is worth it, because I know that this is a great CPU cooler.


I guess so, but in the same sense, why drive a blue lambo when the one you ordered is black? Plus, I don't see it as a banged up ferrari, I see it as a ferrari that maybe has some chipped paint UNDER the hood, but it otherwise perfection.

I still get your point though, to each their own. The way I look at it is, it performs like a standard ferrari, the exterior appears like one, but under the hood there is a slight defect that is never seen by the eye and doesn't cause any performance issues.

If I knew I'd need to get said ferrari replaced several times and then eventually settle on a different colored one just due to a lick of paint under the car or under the hood, I wouldn't go through all that. It's like, say your case is blue, you going to get the black or the blue one? Obviously you chose black for a reason, I would have to imagine that if it doesn't effect the cooling and can't be seen, it would be a bigger inconvenience to not have the color you want as that is visible, no?


----------



## doyll

*neXen, you are out of line.
It's not your cooler and it's not your call.

Same applies to you neofury*

Now lets just agree to disagree about how each of us choose to deal with these issues.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neofury*
> 
> I guess so, but in the same sense, why drive a blue lambo when the one you ordered is black? Plus, I don't see it as a banged up ferrari, I see it as a ferrari that maybe has some chipped paint UNDER the hood, but it otherwise perfection.
> 
> I still get your point though, to each their own. The way I look at it is, it performs like a standard ferrari, the exterior appears like one, but under the hood there is a slight defect that is never seen by the eye and doesn't cause any performance issues.


Well when I called them I asked them for a black replacement, but I was told that the black ones are having problems, so I could choose a different color.

And I wouldn't say that the blemishes are "under the hood," they're external and quite visible.


----------



## neofury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Well when I called them I asked them for a black replacement, but I was told that the black ones are having problems, so I could choose a different color.
> 
> And I wouldn't say that the blemishes are "under the hood," they're external and quite visible.


Like I said it's your call, but when you have the PC put together and the fans on, the pipes aren't visible. It's basically like saying the under part of a car is visible. Maybe if you get down under the car, but far from visible during normal use.

Anyways, it doesn't really matter it's your choice, it's just a matter of opinion.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> *neXen, you are out of line.
> It's not your cooler and it's not your call.
> 
> Same applies to you neofury*
> 
> Now lets just agree to disagree about how each of us choose to deal with these issues.


doyll, leave the modding to the moderators and stop being a white knight. We're just having a discussion and it's all been opinion, if coelacanth wants to replace his CPU cooler it's his call. I was more remarking on the analogy used.

If you want to be a mod then great, become one. Otherwise no need to get curt with either of us just for sharing our opinion on the matter.

I never said, implied or told coelacanth what to do, that his opinion was wrong, or anything of that nature. We're allowed to discuss our opinion even if we both don't share the same opinion on this matter.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neofury*
> 
> doyll, leave the modding to the moderators and stop being a white knight. We're just having a discussion and it's all been opinion, if coelacanth wants to replace his CPU cooler it's his call. I was more remarking on the analogy used.
> 
> If you want to be a mod then great, become one. Otherwise no need to get curt with either of us just for sharing our opinion on the matter.
> 
> I never said, implied or told coelacanth what to do, that his opinion was wrong, or anything of that nature. We're allowed to discuss our opinion even if we both don't share the same opinion on this matter.


Was just expressing my opinions and analogys... so you can _leave the modding to the moderators and stop ..._ too.


----------



## coelacanth

Everyone relax. I am enjoying this thread and appreciate everyone's input and opinions.

I'm not frustrated by this, I'm in no hurry to get the CPU cooler. I posted in this thread just in case anyone was interested in the issues that I was having. I've been posting updates here out of boredom more than anything. I probably am being too neurotic about the heat pipes, but since I'm not in a rush I figure I'll take my time a get one without the kinks.

In the meantime I read a bunch of articles and benchmarks on TIM and I got myself a tube of Xigmatek PTI-G4512 to go with the CPU cooler. I read that the stock thermal grease that comes with the PH-TC14PE is really good, but that it has nano-diamonds. I've seen pics of nano-diamond TIM putting scratches in IHSs etc., which is why I got the Xigmatek. (And probably also being too careful here as well).


----------



## doyll

No reason to worry about Phanteks TIM. I've used several tubes of it now with no scratching problems.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No reason to worry about Phanteks TIM. I've used several tubes of it now with no scratching problems.


Awesome good info. I noticed in the tests that it performs extremely well.


----------



## gregoire

I guess there was a reason I had to cancel my black ordered PH-TC14PE (waited two months then get bored) to get a white one (which I am really happy).


----------



## coelacanth

I emailed Phanteks on October 14, October 18, and again today. I finally got a response, they apologized for the delay and they said they'd ship me a new CPU cooler today.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I emailed Phanteks on October 14, October 18, and again today. I finally got a response, they apologized for the delay and they said they'd ship me a new CPU cooler today.


Good to hear it's on the way.


----------



## theKab

Alright! So it finally arrived! Had to wait a couple of days to install it though because of a trip to the cabin/mountain. Installation was easy, besides the fact that I screwed up on some occasions, but it worked out in the end. This thing is indeed HUGE, but it looks badass! I love it already!.

Here's what it looks like in my Air 540 case:

Before(flash)


Before(without flash)


After(flash)


After(without flash)


I ran Prime95 both before and after installation to compare my CPU temperatures, and it's just really great! Definitely worth the money in terms of the improvement here!

Before


After


With the stock cooler I had 77.75 degrees C on average, with full load. With the TC14PE I have 57.25 degrees C on average. So I went down 20.5 degrees from the stock cooler to this one! Not just that but the turbo-boost also allows itself to go higher with the new cooler. Awesome! And idle temperatures are also lower. They have been hovering around 30-35 on average idle with the stock cooler, now the average is always around 25 degrees and even lower! I love this cooler!

Edit: Forgot to mention that I didn't turn my case fans to full power when running Prime95 with the new cooler so it could potentially have been a few degrees lower. Will test later, as I have gaming cravings right now!


----------



## doyll

Congrats on a beautiful installation!
Great temps.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

ok so its summer time...is 50°c ok for load temps @ 37%fanspeed?my rooms about 30-40°c at the moment and im getting AC soon....


----------



## BKinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> ok so its summer time...is 50°c ok for load temps @ 37%fanspeed?my rooms about 30-40°c at the moment and im getting AC soon....


I'd say yes! I have my TC14PE with only one fan on it and case fans that max at 1000 rpm... when folding I stay at a constant 60 and I'm happy with it because it's silent. The AC will surely help a lot though because ambient effects your temps a lot. My ambient is about 23, my idle is 29 so full load at 60 is good for me. I'd say that you being at 50 with those ambient temps is actually pretty amazing hah!









Hopefully others will chime in to give you a better idea too.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

cool..thanx..im at my oc now and hwmonitor reports :
idle @ moment...just sitting at pc..been struggling with black ops2 sound issue..everything on my setup works..but just this 1dam game has no sound..ive done all i can..updates/fixes/tweaks & diff.cracks...no sound still

Tmpin0 @ 29°
Tmpin1 @ -24
Tmpin2 @ 22

core#0 @ 25
core#1 @ 25
core#2 @ 30
core#3 @ 25
package @ 30
gpu in AB 28°

max temps ingame im hitting 55° on gpu
51/53° on my hottest core on core#2
games im running :
Metro LL
BF3
Cod black ops 2
prototype 2 ( strangely not very system hogging.but more dependant on screen refreshrate..its the only game i switch vsync on)


----------



## X-PREDATOR

edit..i meant @ my pc now


----------



## X-PREDATOR

hurica..sound fixed in black ops 2 i used this if any 1 here has this issue...

http://pirateproxy.net/torrent/7853941/Call_of_Duty_Black_Ops_II_Sound_Fix

game runs smooth as silk on a hot fudge body.. sound working flawless...
getting nice fps around 80-150 @ medium settings vsync disabled...
gpu temps are at [email protected]%fancurve
cpu maxed at 49 @37%fancurve..
awsome cooler


----------



## BKinn

I'm glad you got it all worked out!


----------



## X-PREDATOR

waka waka e e..
thanx..took me a week to get it goin...
but now..im goin to buil a pc in a desk..dont know how well the temps will be then.my plan is to have atleast 2/4 200mm fans and hopefully 12 120/140mm fans.hopefully it goes well...


----------



## Dyaems

edit: nevermind my question


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> guys, what is the TC14's max height clearance if the fans are placed lower than usual? the stock height with fans mounted at default is 171mm right? im wondering how many mm will be shaved off from the height if the fans were placed lower.


Assuming you are referring to TC14PE and not the TC14CS the fans can be fit so they are just slightly above the height of 160mm cooler... dependent of course on how tall RAM is. The mount crossbar center screw needs to be removed to lower middle fan flush with top of cooler.


----------



## Dyaems

yep it is the TC14PE. is it OK to remove the center screw? i can just change the fans though. i might be able to buy a silver one since i am only limited to tigerdirect =\

case is TJ08-e (165mm height clearance) by the way, so i asked about the height when lowering the fans.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.slagcoin.com/Overclock/TJ08E06.jpg&imgrefurl=http://hardforum.com/showthread.php%3Fp%3D1037715213&usg=__8nd35naPAzOsagSsThmYmHGdBxk=&h=1200&w=1600&sz=823&hl=en&start=12&zoom=1&tbnid=e6tDgv-C60ot4M:&tbnh=113&tbnw=150&ei=0JB4UsmbNaOt0QWKjIDABw&prev=/images%3Fq%3DTJ08-e%26client%3Dms-opera-mini-android%26sa%3DX%26channel%3Dnew%26hl%3Den%26tbm%3Disch&itbs=1&sa=X&ved=0CCEQrQMwCw

thats a d14 in that case..so the phanteks will fit fine.just use 120mm fans instead of included fans..this cooler perf is stellar no
matter what fans yo use..ive got ..cm xtraflo..not the best of the lottery..but they work..so grab the best/affordable pair you can get and then yu dnt need to worry about height/ram issue


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> yep it is the TC14PE. is it OK to remove the center screw? i can just change the fans though. i might be able to buy a silver one since i am only limited to tigerdirect =\
> 
> case is TJ08-e (165mm height clearance) by the way, so i asked about the height when lowering the fans.


My Define R2 CPU clearance spec is 165mm and TC14PE fits in with Crucial Ballistix Sport RAM and lowered 140mm fans. Most pics of my build have TY-140 or TY-143 fans mounted but they are 141x151mm with 141mm used between mobo and side cover.

Removing the screw that holds the crossbar to cooler base is not a problem. I replaced it with a screw I had in my spares, but only because it makes it a little easier to keep crossbar in place while starting the spring loaded mounting screws in ends of crossbar.

When installing the mounting kit on motherboard I advise mounting the crossbar to the mount before fully tightening the mount to motherboard. This makes sure the crossbar screws line up properly when you mount cooler. It's also a good idea to trial / practice mount the cooler before applying TIM and doing the actual install. Doing this makes sure everything fits properly and give you a feel for how the spring mounted screws start threading into base.. so less chance of cooler moving and possibly disturbing TIM while trying to get screws started. Trial mount the fans too.. for same reason.. make it easier to do when everything is in the case.


----------



## Dyaems

@ doyll

Thanks man. Yeah I can use smaller fans if I want, I have my trusty Kama Flow @s inside my case, and I also have TY-140s and it should fit as well since youre using them, right? also, im using the same ram as you do, so i shouldn't have problems with it.

I kinda want a black variant though but TigerDirect doesn't have them on stock. since if I want a silver heatsink, I could just buy a Deepcool Assassin which looks as nice as the TC14PE.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> @ doyll
> 
> Thanks man. Yeah I can use smaller fans if I want, I have my trusty Kama Flow @s inside my case, and I also have TY-140s and it should fit as well since youre using them, right? also, im using the same ram as you do, so i shouldn't have problems with it.
> 
> I kinda want a black variant though but TigerDirect doesn't have them on stock. since if I want a silver heatsink, I could just buy a Deepcool Assassin which looks as nice as the TC14PE.


The Phanteks fan clip pin does not fit the TY-14x series fans. I made some using zip-ties


Deepcool Assassin is also a good cooler. With TY-14x series fans it's even better.

Newegg is $20.00 cheaper than TigerDirect for TC14PE

SilverStone Heligon HE01 is also very good and same price.


----------



## Dyaems

thanks. I'll try if i can get a CPU cooler in newegg since ill just have someone to buy for me and bring it here to our country, and he suggested that just get it on tigerdirect because it is near their place.


----------



## coelacanth

I got my replacement from Phanteks (swapped the black cooler for blue) and I'm very happy with the replacement. The heat pipes look good.

Install was pretty easy, though I had to take off the top exhaust fan on my case (Cooler Master Storm Sniper) to be able to clip the fans to the CPU cooler. That was a pain since I had to take the plastic top off the case, then unscrew the top exhaust fan and remove it, then clip the Phanteks fans onto the CPU cooler, then replace the top exhaust fan and top of the case.

I put a PWM splitter on my mobo header and got everything together, then realized that the fans that come with the PH-TC14PE are *not PWM fans*. After making this discovery I went through the thread and found similar comments. Since the PWM header is not accessible after the CPU cooler is on, I had to take everything apart again and redo everything with their PWM header that connects to the 3-pin fan splitter that then connects to the fans. I tried putting the side panel with its fan back on, but the PH-TC14PE with fans on is too tall (with my RAM - G.Skill Ripjaws) for my case, so I had to take the side intake fan off. If I had low profile RAM, my side panel with intake fan would just barely fit over the CPU cooler with fans.

I'm very impressed with the cooling. Idle temps are higher than I expected but load temps never even broke 60C.

Unfortunately one of the fans that came with the CPU cooler makes a chirping sound so I contacted Phanteks about getting it replaced. So eventually I will have to take my case apart again once I get the replacement fan. Maybe I'll reseat the cooler then and see how my TIM job is, and see if I can improve it. I'm using Xigmatek PTI-G4512 TIM.

Here are some pics:

Heat pipes looking good.


More heat pipes.


Installed.


Installed. Had to situate the CPU fan over the Ripjaws RAM a bit, and after doing that the side panel intake fan on my case (Cooler Master Storm Sniper) no longer fit, so I had to remove it. Also, note the tight fit up against the top exhaust on the case. In order to be able to clip the fans onto the CPU cooler I had to remove the top exhaust fan first.


My next step will be to improve airflow in my case. My video cards overclock very well but I'm currently running them at stock due to heat buildup. Having to remove the side panel intake is not helping my video card temps.


----------



## doyll

I a piece of doweling a little smaller than a pencil and files a "V" at end on one side to capture the wire of fan clip in. Than spring the clip onto cooler Works great in tight places.

Also found 700rpm is a good idle fan speed to keep not only CPU cool but move some air over motherboard components keeping them cool too.

Cutting out the back vent grill helps a lot.. as will a couple three of good intake fans.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I a piece of doweling a little smaller than a pencil and files a "V" at end on one side to capture the wire of fan clip in. Than spring the clip onto cooler Works great in tight places.
> 
> Also found 700rpm is a good idle fan speed to keep not only CPU cool but move some air over motherboard components keeping them cool too.
> 
> Cutting out the back vent grill helps a lot.. as will a couple three of good intake fans.


The wooden dowel idea is a good one, I'll give it a try. I was trying to undo the fan clip with my screwdriver but just couldn't get it. a dowel with some notches in it should work better. 700 RPM is fine for CPU temps, I am very impressed with the CPU cooling. I just need a way to exhaust my GPU heat now without increasing noise too much. Temps are much better with the side panel off the case, I might just keep it like that.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> The wooden dowel idea is a good one, I'll give it a try. I was trying to undo the fan clip with my screwdriver but just couldn't get it. a dowel with some notches in it should work better. 700 RPM is fine for CPU temps, I am very impressed with the CPU cooling. I just need a way to exhaust my GPU heat now without increasing noise too much. Temps are much better with the side panel off the case, I might just keep it like that.


Do you have a bottom intake fan installed?

May I suggest some good 140mm cooler PWM fan controlled fans controlled with PWM signal from your GPUs or CPU PWM header. Controlling case fans this way means case fans increase rpm / airflow as GPUs / CPU fans do. Remove any unused PCI slot covers for more exhaust flow. Maybe put another 140mm PWM fan in lower 3x 5.25 bays flowing cool intake air directly to CPU intake fan and another 140mm as a side intake fan to supply cool intake air into top 780.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Do you have a bottom intake fan installed?
> 
> May I suggest some good 140mm cooler PWM fan controlled fans controlled with PWM signal from your GPUs or CPU PWM header. Controlling case fans this way means case fans increase rpm / airflow as GPUs / CPU fans do. Remove any unused PCI slot covers for more exhaust flow. Maybe put another 140mm PWM fan in lower 3x 5.25 bays flowing cool intake air directly to CPU intake fan and another 140mm as a side intake fan to supply cool intake air into top 780.


I don't have an intake in the bottom of the case at the moment.

Absolutely I would love some recommendations! My motherboard only has 1 PWM header.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I don't have an intake in the bottom of the case at the moment.
> 
> Absolutely I would love some recommendations! My motherboard only has 1 PWM header.


1 PWM header is not a problem. That's what PWM splitters with PSU power connections are for.








Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter is arguably the best.


Gelid make a good 4-way splitter. 2 can easily be hooked together allowing 7 PWM fans to be controlled.


Using GPU PWM signal is a little harder to do. I have not found a good mini-PWM to normal PWM adapter. Here are some drawings of how to do it.

With splitter having molex power the GPU is supplying the PWM signal to fans and PSU supplies the power. More than one normal PWM socket can be used or a PWM splitter for more fans. Mini PWM connector plugs into GPU PCB fan header. GPU fans plug into mini PWM header. Standard PWM connector is for case fan.


PWM signal splitter sends a PWM signal to normal PWM socket.Mini PWM connector plugs into GPU PCB fan header. GPU fans plug into mini PWM header. PWM splitter with molex power plugs into standard PWM connector and extra case fans plug into splitter.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 1 PWM header is not a problem. That's what PWM splitters with PSU power connections are for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter is arguably the best.
> 
> 
> Gelid make a good 4-way splitter. 2 can easily be hooked together allowing 7 PWM fans to be controlled.
> 
> 
> Using GPU PWM signal is a little harder to do. I have not found a good mini-PWM to normal PWM adapter. Here are some drawings of how to do it.
> 
> With splitter having molex power the GPU is supplying the PWM signal to fans and PSU supplies the power. More than one normal PWM socket can be used or a PWM splitter for more fans. Mini PWM connector plugs into GPU PCB fan header. GPU fans plug into mini PWM header. Standard PWM connector is for case fan.
> 
> 
> PWM signal splitter sends a PWM signal to normal PWM socket.Mini PWM connector plugs into GPU PCB fan header. GPU fans plug into mini PWM header. PWM splitter with molex power plugs into standard PWM connector and extra case fans plug into splitter.


Great info. I think I'm going to get the Gelid PWM splitter.

Also, can you recommend some 120mm and 140mm PWM fans to me?

Thanks.


----------



## doyll

I'm not really up on best PWM fans. Have mostly Thermalright TY-140 series and Phanteks fans at the moment. 4x TY-140, 4x TY-143, 2x TY-147, 3x TY-100.

These French 120 & 140mm fan reviews are good. Click to highlight fan and it's graph shows.
120mm fans
http://www.hardware.fr/articles/874-35/recapitulatif-db-a-vs-cfm.html

140mm fans
http://www.hardware.fr/articles/886-26/recapitulatif-db-a-vs-cfm.html

You can check out Tator Tot's fan thread and ask him for suggestions.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1321074/tator-tots-big-quiet-120mm-140mm-fan-round-up/0_20


----------



## X-PREDATOR

cougar vortex 120/140mm pwm
noctua
thermalright/thermal take
gentle typhoons
its not neccasary to buy the best or expensive..
as long as a fan can push above 50cfm at low rpms..then itll do fine


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> cougar vortex 120/140mm pwm
> noctua
> thermalright/thermal take
> gentle typhoons
> its not neccasary to buy the best or expensive..
> *as long as a fan can push above 50cfm at low rpms*..then itll do fine


You have to be joking... unless low rpm is >1000rpm or there is 0.0mm static pressure.


----------



## coelacanth

I took the second fan off the CPU cooler because my Ripjaws RAM was causing it to sit too high up on the CPU cooler, not allowing me to get me side intake fan on the inside of my case. I dropped the single fan on the CPU cooler into the middle slot and put it as low as possible. I put the side intake fan back on and it clears the fan on the CPU cooler by a few millimeters. It's really tight, but it fits. With the side intake on I have nice positive pressure and temps have decreased dramatically since yesterday without the fan. Yesterday my top GTX 780 Classified was throttling at 79C, today while gaming it topped out at 71C.

With the air flow improvement CPU temps are a little lower than yesterday as well, even though I've only got a single fan on the CPU cooler now instead of two.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

hi..you can use 120mm in front or back of cooler..

doyll...im using cm extra flo 120mm pwm 4pin * [email protected] 37% @1111rpm..at full 100% 2200rpm their rated for 80-90cfm...and ive never even passed 56°c on my #2core..all other cores at 49...it might seem high..but im not OC..my room is at the moment around 30°c...so you tell me again im joking....my gpu doesnt even hit above the 50's..so im either lucky..or dare call me out....


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> hi..you can use 120mm in front or back of cooler..
> 
> doyll...im using cm extra flo 120mm pwm 4pin * [email protected] 37% @1111rpm..at full *100% 2200rpm their rated for 80-90cfm*...and ive never even passed 56°c on my #2core..all other cores at 49...it might seem high..but im not OC..my room is at the moment around 30°c...so you tell me again im joking....my gpu doesnt even hit above the 50's..so im either lucky..or dare call me out....


Your assumtion of *"as long as a fan can push above 50cfm at low rpms"* is what I questioned, not how cool your system is running.

"Rated" doesn't mean they will flow that much. Also the rating is with 0 resistance and in real life all fans have resistance of at least a grill or cooler, add filter, HDD cage, cables, etc. A fan that actually will move [email protected] against real world resistance will not move 50cfm at "low speed". I consider 1000rpm to be pretty fast and there are few fans that will move 50cfm at 1000rpm.. most are 50cfm or less at full speed in "real life" applications.

In Hardware.Fr fan tests 140mm fans at 35-43cfm are 33-41dBA. 120mm fans at 35-38cfm are 31-37dba. You wil find that the 12v rpm / cfm figures for each fan are only a few cfm higher if you look at each fan's review.
http://www.hardware.fr/articles/874-35/recapitulatif-db-a-vs-cfm.html
http://www.hardware.fr/articles/874-35/recapitulatif-db-a-vs-cfm.html


----------



## randomnerd865

I'll be ordering my first phanteks cooler soon for my next build. It's been a while since ive used an air cooler so im anxious to she how the phanteks perfoms. Ill be geting the black one to match my new 600t white. It should be cooling the a new 4670k with a nice overclock. Hopefully there won't be and clearance issues with the 600t and the low profile vengeance ram (correct me if i'm wrong). I'll have pics and more thoughts once I get everything together and sorted out.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> I'll be ordering my first phanteks cooler soon for my next build. It's been a while since ive used an air cooler so im anxious to she how the phanteks perfoms. Ill be geting the black one to match my new 600t white. It should be cooling the a new 4670k with a nice overclock. Hopefully there won't be and clearance issues with the 600t and the low profile vengeance ram (correct me if i'm wrong). I'll have pics and more thoughts once I get everything together and sorted out.


Should be no problems with cooler clearance. Think 600T has 180mm CPU clearance and low profile Vengeance is like 26.25mm. Look forward to seeing pics.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

same here..be advised..go back a few pages in this thread there were a few peeps having issues with the black 1 ..heat pipes ect..go for red/blue..
another word of caution dont expect any major oc on haswell..they pump more heat out than ivy..so keep the volts very low...the cooler will be more than adeqaute.ive got lp ve.geance 16gb..cooler fits perfectly..
nice to see more and more peeps getting ths beasty


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Should be no problems with cooler clearance. Think 600T has 180mm CPU clearance and low profile Vengeance is like 26.25mm. Look forward to seeing pics.


Yeah my thoughts exactly, but now i'm starting to get the watercooling bug...
Just curious how does the new h100i compare against the phanteks. I ultimately consider the XSPC kit though. I really like the phanteks and the simplicity of air cooling though.


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> same here..be advised..go back a few pages in this thread there were a few peeps having issues with the black 1 ..heat pipes ect..go for red/blue..
> another word of caution dont expect any major oc on haswell..they pump more heat out than ivy..so keep the volts very low...the cooler will be more than adeqaute.ive got lp ve.geance 16gb..cooler fits perfectly..
> nice to see more and more peeps getting ths beasty


Sorry for the double post I missed this comment. I was looking at the white or black. What is the issue with the heat pipes specifically?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Sorry for the double post I missed this comment. I was looking at the white or black. What is the issue with the heat pipes specifically?


A non-issue really. Somehow a batch of heatpipes used in 14PE black coolers didn't get bent properly. I have a black 14PE and it's pipes are fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Yeah my thoughts exactly, but now i'm starting to get the watercooling bug...
> Just curious how does the new h100i compare against the phanteks. I ultimately consider the XSPC kit though. I really like the phanteks and the simplicity of air cooling though.


H100i is only slightly better than 14PE, not as quiet, more expensive and not near as dependable. The only thing that can go wrong on 14PE is possible fan noise or failure. H100i total cost is about same as a mid-range water cooling pump in custom loops. Also keep in mind GPUs make as much or more heat than CPUs do, so if going water both need to be done. If you want to go water do it right. Spend 2-3-4-5 times what air coolers cost and put both on water.


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> A non-issue really. Somehow a batch of heatpipes used in 14PE black coolers didn't get bent properly. I have a black 14PE and it's pipes are fine.
> H100i is only slightly better than 14PE, not as quiet, more expensive and not near as dependable. The only thing that can go wrong on 14PE is possible fan noise or failure. H100i total cost is about same as a mid-range water cooling pump in custom loops. Also keep in mind GPUs make as much or more heat than CPUs do, so if going water both need to be done. If you want to go water do it right. Spend 2-3-4-5 times what air coolers cost and put both on water.


You are right about that. If I do choose a custom loop I will most likely add the gpu into the loop. I am leaning away from the h110i though because I can't handle the noise and Speding even more on fans make my wallet cringe.

Edit: Also I don't know a lot about them but the XSPC kits have some good expandability.


----------



## doyll

There are some good component kits. I'm not up on water but if I was if I was going that route I would either get a good used pump cheap and upgrade to a more powerful one later or buy a good powerful high gpm pump, one good radiator, cpu block and reservoir. That way you can add more blocks and radiators to it.

But water is a lot more work and expense. I see people going from air to water and than back again because air is so much simpler..


----------



## X-PREDATOR

thats true doyll..plus if you get a leeky..or pump failure..your loop is pooped...so its in my opinion
phanteks nr1 14pe
noctua nr2 d14
thermalright 3 s.arrow
and the list continues....

air coolers are.safe..efficient..and perform stellar..


----------



## greywarden

Got mine installed on the motherboard and into the case, finally! Had to order some Vengeance LP to fit under the heatsink on my Maximus V Gene, case is the new Air 540, it looks awesome! Keeps my i7-2600 in the 20C-30C range!

[EDIT]: Almost forgot, I had to buy some 8-32 threaded rod and nuts, because with the Corsair AF140 fans, they don't have 120mm fan mounts on them, so the metal clips were hanging too far out on the sides and touching the back of the GTX760. It was really time consuming, but I trimmed the threaded rods and put a nut on each fan that's holding it tight against the heatsink. I used the clips on the other side, but the plastic doo-dads that work with the metal clips are barely in the mounting holes on the fans. So I'll have to find a way to fix that, too.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greywarden*
> 
> Got mine installed on the motherboard and into the case, finally! Had to order some Vengeance LP to fit under the heatsink on my Maximus V Gene, case is the new Air 540, it looks awesome! Keeps my i7-2600 in the 20C-30C range!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love the through-bolt fan mount!

Very nice!

Very classy!


----------



## greywarden

Thanks, I might pull it apart and either put some heatshrink or black tubing over the rod to make it look a little nicer. I tried to use those black plastic nut caps, but they wouldn't close. I realize now that all the fans are pointed backward, so I'll have to fix that, too. I have some more RAM on the way, so I'll have to pull it all apart to install it anyway.


----------



## doyll

Maybe some black tubing / hose to hold the middle fan from vibrating? If I remember right some fuel hose will slide right over 8-32.


----------



## greywarden

Yeah I work at Advance Auto parts, it won't be a issue or a major cost for this. I located some black 8-32 threaded rod and acorn nuts, now i just need to find some regular-type nuts (nvm found 'em) to hold the fans in place. I just need to be able to cut the rods properly so that the ends are thread-able, and the correct length.

I'll post another pic when I get it all sorted out.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

That looks a-ma-zing..totaly genius..makes it looke like an engine cooler..totaly awsome..you can try regular cable sleeving too just pull it very tight..


----------



## welly321

Ok first off let me just say this cooler is AMAZING! The improvement in temperature from my coolermaster 212+ is amazing. Almost a 20 degree difference.

Now to my issue. The adapters for PWN that came with my cooler seem messed up. I received a Y splitter and a 3pin to 4pin adapter. Now heres the problem. The Y Splitter has two 3pin inputs and then has a 4 pin output. According to the instructions, Im supposed to hook the Y splitter to the 3pin to 4 pin adapter. However I cant do that because the y splitter has a 4 pin output! Did they mess up with my adapters or what?

Now let me also say that I tried to hook the fans up to the Y splitter and just plug the 4 pin output to my motherboards 4 pin PWM header. It didnt work. The fans stay full on (and yes i did turn on PWM control in my bios).

EDIT: Just read a newegg review that had this same issue. Looks like Phantek puts the wrong cable in the box.... ***? Also I got the black version and the heatpipes were extremely beat up looking. Pretty much identical to a previous picture I saw in this thread. I dont think its affecting the cooling though.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welly321*
> 
> Ok first off let me just say this cooler is AMAZING! The improvement in temperature from my coolermaster 212+ is amazing. Almost a 20 degree difference.
> 
> Now to my issue. The adapters for PWN that came with my cooler seem messed up. I received a Y splitter and a 3pin to 4pin adapter. Now heres the problem. The Y Splitter has two 3pin inputs and then has a 4 pin output. According to the instructions, Im supposed to hook the Y splitter to the 3pin to 4 pin adapter. However I cant do that because the y splitter has a 4 pin output! Did they mess up with my adapters or what?
> 
> Now let me also say that I tried to hook the fans up to the Y splitter and just plug the 4 pin output to my motherboards 4 pin PWM header. It didnt work. The fans stay full on (and yes i did turn on PWM control in my bios).
> 
> EDIT: Just read a newegg review that had this same issue. Looks like Phantek puts the wrong cable in the box.... ***? Also I got the black version and the heatpipes were extremely beat up looking. Pretty much identical to a previous picture I saw in this thread. I dont think its affecting the cooling though.


My Y-splitter has 3-pin on both ends.

The fans that come with the PH-TC14PE are *NOT* PWM fans. You can put the resistor between your fans and the fan header to slow them down, and if your motherboard has BIOS PWM-like control you can control the fan speed that way.

I went through 3 black coolers and finally got a blue one. Phanteks acknowledged that the black coolers are having production problems with the heat pipes. It seems like it's just cosmetic though for the most part since Phanteks continues to sell the black coolers with the messed up heat pipes (though theoretically kinks in the pipes should degrade performance, if only slightly).

And yes, this is a beast air cooler. It works great!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welly321*
> 
> Ok first off let me just say this cooler is AMAZING! The improvement in temperature from my coolermaster 212+ is amazing. Almost a 20 degree difference.
> 
> Now to my issue. The adapters for PWN that came with my cooler seem messed up. I received a Y splitter and a 3pin to 4pin adapter. Now heres the problem. The Y Splitter has two 3pin inputs and then has a 4 pin output. According to the instructions, Im supposed to hook the Y splitter to the 3pin to 4 pin adapter. However I cant do that because the y splitter has a 4 pin output! Did they mess up with my adapters or what?
> 
> Now let me also say that I tried to hook the fans up to the Y splitter and just plug the 4 pin output to my motherboards 4 pin PWM header. It didnt work. The fans stay full on (and yes i did turn on PWM control in my bios).
> 
> EDIT: Just read a newegg review that had this same issue. Looks like Phantek puts the wrong cable in the box.... ***? Also I got the black version and the heatpipes were extremely beat up looking. Pretty much identical to a previous picture I saw in this thread. I dont think its affecting the cooling though.


I assume when you say "3pin to 4pin" you are referring to 4pin to motherboard and 3pin to fan splitter? Same applies to "two 3pin inputs" on splitter? They are the outputs to fan and the "4 pin output" is actually the input?
Contact Phanteks / supplier and explain the problem. In the meantime you can modify the 3pin male socket on PWM adaptere socket to accept the 4pin plug on "Y" splitter by cutting out the side with small wire cutting pliers. Images are of modified 3pin "Y" splitter modified to accept 4pin PWM fans.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i did the same to my fancontroller extensions..3pin and 4pin pwm works..


----------



## welly321

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> My Y-splitter has 3-pin on both ends.
> 
> The fans that come with the PH-TC14PE are *NOT* PWM fans. You can put the resistor between your fans and the fan header to slow them down, and if your motherboard has BIOS PWM-like control you can control the fan speed that way.
> 
> I went through 3 black coolers and finally got a blue one. Phanteks acknowledged that the black coolers are having production problems with the heat pipes. It seems like it's just cosmetic though for the most part since Phanteks continues to sell the black coolers with the messed up heat pipes (though theoretically kinks in the pipes should degrade performance, if only slightly).
> 
> And yes, this is a beast air cooler. It works great!


I know there not PWM fans and Phanteks messed up giving me that adapter. And no I cant control both fans with my mobo, only one. The Y splitter they gave me wont work with the PWM adapter they gave me. I'm not the only one either. Personally I'm pretty frustrated with that along with the crimped heatpipes. But atleast the cooler works well.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welly321*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I know there not PWM fans and Phanteks messed up giving me that adapter. And no I cant control both fans with my mobo, only one. The Y splitter they gave me wont work with the PWM adapter they gave me. I'm not the only one either. Personally I'm pretty frustrated with that along with the crimped heatpipes. But atleast the cooler works well.
> 
> 
> 
> Just mod you PWM adapter to accept the 4pin plug. Phanteks will replace it and in the mean time you will be able to use the adaptor and splitter as intended.
Click to expand...


----------



## twistedspace

has anyone else gotten their cooler with a poorly machined base? Straight out of the box it looks like some one took a screwdriver to it.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

can u upload pics please?


----------



## twistedspace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> can u upload pics please?


i have to wait until i get home


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twistedspace*
> 
> has anyone else gotten their cooler with a poorly machined base? Straight out of the box it looks like some one took a screwdriver to it.


What color did you get? Of the 4 PH-TC14PEs I have gone through (3 black and 1 blue) all of the bases looked good. They are not mirror finish and you can see machining marks but they are just fine that way based on the great cooling results.


----------



## twistedspace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> What color did you get? Of the 4 PH-TC14PEs I have gone through (3 black and 1 blue) all of the bases looked good. They are not mirror finish and you can see machining marks but they are just fine that way based on the great cooling results.


I got black. I can see machining marks and that is to be expected but i didnt expect chips and dents. I have it installed and it still cools better than my 212 evo but i dont think that should be there.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twistedspace*
> 
> I got black. I can see machining marks and that is to be expected but i didnt expect chips and dents. I have it installed and it still cools better than my 212 evo but i dont think that should be there.


Yea scratches and dents are not supposed to be there. The black coolers have the kinked heat pipe issue too.


----------



## twistedspace

still keeps temps down


----------



## doyll

I suggest you take detailed pictures of the base and email them to Phanteks service and RMA explaining the problem and asking how they want you to proceed.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

if only this bad boy had a mirror finish and solid copper base like example

http://www.google.com/search?q=xspc+raystorm+cpu+block+base&client=ms-opera-mini-android&channel=new&prmd=ivns&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=C2CeUv_DIPSS0QX3hYGIDw&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ

this thing cools amazing even with kinks dents and stuff..
apologys for previous post..my phones battery died


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> if only this bad boy had a mirror finish and solid copper base like example


Mirror finish is just polishing a machined finish.. and often is not as flat as machined finish... And it is a solid copper base.. with nickel plating on it.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i know D...
was just a thaught...


----------



## gtaking112

Hi, I currently have the Patriot Viper 3 RAM: http://cdn.eteknix.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Viper_2133_Top.jpg

My motherboard is a Gigabyte Z68X-UD3H-B3

Do you think I would have enough clearance with this CPU cooler?

Any help would be greatly appreciated


----------



## doyll

I believe Patriot Viper 3 is 41mm tall. 3-4mm for socket for a total height of 45m
TC14PE has 40mm from bottom fin to CPU. CPU is 8mm above motherboard for a total of 48mm from fin to motherboard.
That leave at least 3mm between fin and RAM.

But that's not the only potential problem. 45mm RAM height with 140mm fan on top of it is 185mm from motherboard to the sidecover of your case.. meaning you need a case with about 175-177mm CPU clearance for intake fan to fit.

There is always the option of placing the front fan on back of cooling so the fans are pull/pull instead of push/push. Same cooling.

Or run with one fan and CPU will be 1c warmer


----------



## ilcekoo

Hi all guys.
I'm thinking to buy from a seller an used PH-TC14PE.
I asked him for some pipes' photos.
What do you think? I should buy it or not?
thank you for your help!

one side

other side


----------



## X-PREDATOR

if you dont end up buyin..give me link please ill gladly take it..i wonder how this cooler will look on a gpu..mmmm


----------



## OcN13

Hey guys,

I have been searching but can't find what I am looking for. Will the cooler work with the p9x79 asus motherboard. I have ripjaws ram and a gtx 480.


----------



## Dyaems

Anyone tried fitting an SP120 fan for the TC14PE? mister G didn't show up any results..


----------



## HOTDOGS

Probably going to pick up one of these in the future. Consider this my sub.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

@Ocn13
it has support for 2011 socket..the mounts are all there
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/LGA-2011-i7-3960X-Air-Overclocking,3130-11.html
hope it helps


----------



## twistedspace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OcN13*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I have been searching but can't find what I am looking for. Will the cooler work with the p9x79 asus motherboard. I have ripjaws ram and a gtx 480.


im using mine with p9x79 pro. where the sockets and dimm slots are placed is the same


----------



## X-PREDATOR

@Twistedspace

hi..is that an Xpredator white my eyes see?or the rosewill version?
looks good..ive got the black version..

? why is your fans on back and cooler pulling air in and not out? does it lower temps..im currently at 43° @37% fancurve cores are anything from idle 30 to 50 @ gaming load (BF3/sniper elite/ metroLL)
still waiting on my AC..its so hot here..


----------



## twistedspace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> @Twistedspace
> 
> hi..is that an Xpredator white my eyes see?or the rosewill version?
> looks good..ive got the black version..
> 
> ? why is your fans on back and cooler pulling air in and not out? does it lower temps..im currently at 43° @37% fancurve cores are anything from idle 30 to 50 @ gaming load (BF3/sniper elite/ metroLL)
> still waiting on my AC..its so hot here..


its the rosewill thor v2. i have my side and top 230 mm taking air out and the front and back have filters to bring air in. idle is at 30 to 20 depending on room temp. 50 +/- 2 with all cores at full load.

with it set up like this, it could theoretically perform like there are three fans on the heatsink


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twistedspace*
> 
> im using mine with p9x79 pro. where the sockets and dimm slots are placed is the same
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twistedspace*
> 
> its the rosewill thor v2. i have my side and top 230 mm taking air out and the front and back have filters to bring air in. idle is at 30 to 20 depending on room temp. 50 +/- 2 with all cores at full load.
> 
> with it set up like this, it could theoretically perform like there are three fans on the heatsink


Look nice.








Any idea what the air temp on cooler intake is compared to room temp? Where is your case normally setting?


----------



## twistedspace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Look nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any idea what the air temp on cooler intake is compared to room temp? Where is your case normally setting?





at the intake it could be 20c i havnt accurately measured.


----------



## doyll

Thanks!
Very nice looking setup!









But everything is too clean!









I'm betting a pint (beer) that the intake is not the same temp as your room... but without actually putting a sensor in front of cooler intake there is no way to say what it is.









I have done lots of testing inside and outside of different systems and they are almost always 1c or more than room temp.

I do this using a cheapo digital indoor / outdoor wired remote thermometer with a 20cm piece of stiff insulated wire braided into probe end and a plastic clothspin to position it where I want it.


----------



## twistedspace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks!
> Very nice looking setup!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But everything is too clean!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm betting a pint (beer) that the intake is not the same temp as your room... but without actually putting a sensor in front of cooler intake there is no way to say what it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have done lots of testing inside and outside of different systems and they are almost always 1c or more than room temp.
> 
> I do this using a cheapo digital indoor / outdoor wired remote thermometer with a 20cm piece of stiff insulated wire braided into probe end and a plastic clothspin to position it where I want it.


i dont worry about case temps so much usually unless in winter when the heater is on.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twistedspace*
> 
> i dont worry about case temps so much usually unless in winter when the heater is on.


Understood.
Was just curious if any heat from back exhaust of GPU and other back case venting was affecting the back intake. Obviously with case setting out in open like it is helps a lot.

Thanks.


----------



## twistedspace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Understood.
> Was just curious if any heat from back exhaust of GPU and other back case venting was affecting the back intake. Obviously with case setting out in open like it is helps a lot.
> 
> Thanks.


yes i wrote an article about keeping your rig in a well ventilated space and letting it breath.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

nice setup dude..


----------



## twistedspace

the lowest temp i got with the phantek cooler is 18C


----------



## X-PREDATOR

damn..do yo hav ac on special cold? or is it winter..im barely getting below 30-40° at idle..its super hot here at moment...only use pc at night at moment..winter times i get what you said ..


----------



## DirkDaring

So just got a black tc14pe and the pipes are crimped near base. I remember someone in this thread had this issue with a black one as well. Should I worry about getting it RMA'd? Will upload pics momentarily.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirkDaring*
> 
> So just got a black tc14pe and the pipes are crimped near base. I remember someone in this thread had this issue with a black one as well. Should I worry about getting it RMA'd? Will upload pics momentarily.


There were a couple of us with the crimped pipes on the black coolers. I don't think it will affect performance at all. I went through 3 black coolers (all with crimped pipes, one with the top fin coming off) before RMAing back to Phanteks directly. Phanteks acknowledged that they are having problems with the black CPU coolers and they did an RMA for me and swapped the black cooler for a blue one (no problems with the blue one's heat pipes, though one of the fans chirps, so I took it off). I did it for the aesthetics. If the crimped heat pipes don't bother you then I'm sure you're fine.


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirkDaring*
> 
> So just got a black tc14pe and the pipes are crimped near base. I remember someone in this thread had this issue with a black one as well. Should I worry about getting it RMA'd? Will upload pics momentarily.


If you can refund it, go ahead and refund it and buy the one on the marketplace in this forum. Its almost new and it doesn't have kinks


----------



## DirkDaring

Bought it with billmelater so might be a hassle to refund. Ia the phanteks rep still circling around here? Think I'll drop phanteks a line directly and see if they'll rma it for a good black one as I'd like to keep it black.


----------



## Dyaems

yep just ask for an RMA or something! those kinked pipes doesnt really affect performance though and it will not be seen once installed


----------



## A7xConnor

All these kinked pictures are putting me off getting the black edition of the fans e_e

Is it only the black ones that are affected?


----------



## Dyaems

i think so, yeah. i read it somewhere many pages ago.


----------



## twistedspace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> damn..do yo hav ac on special cold? or is it winter..im barely getting below 30-40° at idle..its super hot here at moment...only use pc at night at moment..winter times i get what you said ..


its winter with the ac on


----------



## X-PREDATOR

woh..on hot or cold?

to othr guy with black kinks....
it doesnt effect performance..none whatsoeva..only word of caution id advise is use a better tim..the included paste is outstanding..but has 2 caracterestics that botherd me..1 its doesnt spread easily.so use the line or x method then it does..2 inconsistent temps with the included paste..i went back to as5 and although as5 is old tim..it has always given me consistent temps across the board...
get ic D or shin etsu..mx4 nth1 pk1 or 3 all better stuff...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirkDaring*
> 
> So just got a black tc14pe and the pipes are crimped near base. I remember someone in this thread had this issue with a black one as well. Should I worry about getting it RMA'd? Will upload pics momentarily.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You can RMA if you want but those ripples will not affect performance. Some of the reviews show pipes the similar rippling.


----------



## DirkDaring

Thanks for the replies, going to attempt an RMA through phanteks if they have an unkinked black one and if not just keep it.


----------



## twistedspace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirkDaring*
> 
> Thanks for the replies, going to attempt an RMA through phanteks if they have an unkinked black one and if not just keep it.


can you post a pic of the base so i can compare it to mine


----------



## DirkDaring

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twistedspace*
> 
> can you post a pic of the base so i can compare it to mine


Like so?


----------



## twistedspace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirkDaring*
> 
> Like so?


yes. are those lines i see physical scratches or is it just in the plastic cover


----------



## DirkDaring

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twistedspace*
> 
> yes. are those lines i see physical scratches or is it just in the plastic cover


the base itself but they're the kind of scratches you have to see from a certain angle


----------



## X-PREDATOR

the lines youll see are michine manufacturer process...they look like a rainbow bent lines..not straight..it doesnt effect cooling..you can try lapping a little with 1200grit if you brave enough...just kerp the cooler..test it out...make sure to take screenshots of before and after..example...if your idle now between 30-45 if your place is hot..youll atleast drop to 29 -36..agian just quick rough estimate...ask doyll hes got more sophisticated tools/knowledge for testing...i keep fans at 37% @ all times and hottest i get for cpu in bios is around 50 & cores hottets is 56 rest stay at 49..some of my pipes are a little kinks too and it didnt bother me..ive seen worse...


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirkDaring*
> 
> Thanks for the replies, going to attempt an RMA through phanteks if they have an unkinked black one and if not just keep it.


I contacted Phanteks directly to get an unkinked black one, but there were none (but that was 1.5 months ago). Good luck though.

My computer is mostly black and blue so the blue one also worked for me.


----------



## twistedspace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> the lines youll see are michine manufacturer process...they look like a rainbow bent lines..not straight..it doesnt effect cooling..you can try lapping a little with 1200grit if you brave enough...just kerp the cooler..test it out...make sure to take screenshots of before and after..example...if your idle now between 30-45 if your place is hot..youll atleast drop to 29 -36..agian just quick rough estimate...ask doyll hes got more sophisticated tools/knowledge for testing...i keep fans at 37% @ all times and hottest i get for cpu in bios is around 50 & cores hottets is 56 rest stay at 49..some of my pipes are a little kinks too and it didnt bother me..ive seen worse...


mine actually had scratches and chips but it works better than my hyper212


----------



## DirkDaring

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twistedspace*
> 
> mine actually had scratches and chips but it works better than my hyper212


it's actual scratches, not just from machining. Like the kind of scratch you'd get from somebody barely raking something metal across it like maybe dropped on another heatsink before plastic was on.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

ooh...that sounds horrible. take pics or video upclose..of the whole thing..serial code packaging ..everything..then do rma directly to phanteks along with these vid or pics..that way you hav hard evidence of damages on arrival..good luck hope yo get it sorted..


----------



## DirkDaring

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> ooh...that sounds horrible. take pics or video upclose..of the whole thing..serial code packaging ..everything..then do rma directly to phanteks along with these vid or pics..that way you hav hard evidence of damages on arrival..good luck hope yo get it sorted..


it's not gouges lol, they're just scratches, shouldn't impact performance much if at all. More aesthetic than anything else. It's something you'd see and think "hm should i nitpick?" But kinks in the heatpipes kinda sets off alarms for most people for some reason even though performance shouldn't be impacted as most people have said.


----------



## DirkDaring

Still waiting on a reply from phanteks RMA. I thought we had a phanteks rep here on the forums. :S


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirkDaring*
> 
> Still waiting on a reply from phanteks RMA. I thought we had a phanteks rep here on the forums. :S


Your first post was less than 2 days ago and I'm guessing he doesn't check all forums everyday. Give it a little time and I'm sure he or Phanteks will be in touch.


----------



## DF is BUSY

hey fellas, just wanted to share my phanteks experience!









this thing is a beast.

silent, pretty; yet a big time performer, cant wait til test some further overclocks


----------



## X-PREDATOR

oh m..g..
that is so b..e..a..u..tifull...


----------



## doyll

Sorry mate, but that RAM has to go.









It doesn't match the color scheme.








Blue 14PE looks like it was made for your mobo!


----------



## twistedspace

what is everyones opinions on the fans.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twistedspace*
> 
> what is everyones opinions on the fans.


Fans are fine. My only complaint is they are not PWM but the PWM converter solves that problem.. unless you are trying to run them with other PWM fans.


----------



## twistedspace

i tried the adapter but it completely shut the fan off and i kept getting warnings about fan speed. and asus ai suite said the fan was going 25000rpm


----------



## DF is BUSY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry mate, but that RAM has to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It doesn't match the color scheme.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blue 14PE looks like it was made for your mobo!


haha, i like it man, the fact that it is orange makes the ram "pop" more.

blue, white, blue, blue, bam! orange


----------



## X-PREDATOR

fans..mm i just put 1 on my mobo fan header 1..runs full tilt all the time..as my cpu fans rampd up this thing made the most horrable noise..unplugged it noise went away..so if theres to be a vote..id say yes and no..dont run these full tilt ever..these fans are new..havnt used the 2nd included fan till now..put it on my fancontrol..works much better now..


----------



## twistedspace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> fans..mm i just put 1 on my mobo fan header 1..runs full tilt all the time..as my cpu fans rampd up this thing made the most horrable noise..unplugged it noise went away..so if theres to be a vote..id say yes and no..dont run these full tilt ever..these fans are new..havnt used the 2nd included fan till now..put it on my fancontrol..works much better now..


did you know about the revised fans


----------



## greywarden

Here's my official entrance


----------



## A7xConnor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greywarden*
> 
> Here's my official entrance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love how you used that rod.

How do the Corsair SP's fair against the Phantek fans that come with the cooler? (Minus the fact you have an extra fan)


----------



## X-PREDATOR

@twisted..yes..but the only supplier/store that sold these phanteks in South Africa..no longer does so i couldnt get the new 1's..


----------



## DF is BUSY

may i ask how much TIM do you guys apply when using the tc14pe heatsink?


----------



## greywarden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A7xConnor*
> 
> Love how you used that rod.
> 
> How do the Corsair SP's fair against the Phantek fans that come with the cooler? (Minus the fact you have an extra fan)


Idk, I didn't use the Phantek fans. the do well, though and I can't hear them running right now with 8 of them total in the case.

that's what she said hehehe


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Rice grain size dot..single thin line across the center..or x shape..any of these work great..but less is best normaly chech on youtube..type best method/amount of tim to be applied on cpu..look for a linus tech tips clip..hes my favourate


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greywarden*
> 
> Here's my official entrance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love the way the rod mounting looks!








Could you please tell us how you did the rod mounting and some more detailed pics?

Phanteks has square 140 fans now; PH-F140XP & PH-F140SP (SP also has a blue led version)
https://www.phanteks.com/PH-F140XP.html
https://www.phanteks.com/PH-F140SP.html


----------



## X-PREDATOR

like it alot..great idea..


----------



## greywarden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Love the way the rod mounting looks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could you please tell us how you did the rod mounting and some more detailed pics?
> 
> Phanteks has square 140 fans now; PH-F140XP & PH-F140SP (SP also has a blue led version)
> https://www.phanteks.com/PH-F140XP.html
> https://www.phanteks.com/PH-F140SP.html


I used #8 threaded rod, nuts and acorn nuts, I thought I'd ordered black rods, but they weren't black when they got here, so you can get them from Lowes, idk where to get black ones. I had to trim each of them with a hacksaw and then file the edges, look it up on youtube.

The 2 fans closer to the front of the case have a kungfu grip on the heatsink and the third one was snugged down with the acorn nuts on the ends.

Now the tricky part, they're held on by only 3 rods, because I had to assemble the fans together, and then rotate it onto the heatsink, then tighten them all down. it took a few hours all said and down, but it looks cool and it's secure.


----------



## doyll

Thanks!


----------



## DF is BUSY

if anybody here has the knowledge to answer, please do;

testing overclocks on a 3770k (not delidded);

currently at 1.380 bios vcore for 4.8ghz-

2 hours of p95 so far, using tc14pe and pk1 TIM result in max temps of 82, 92, 94, 87. are temps normal for where I'm at? (taking no delid + current vcore into consideration) Should I reseat the phanteks? reapply tim? my ambient is like 23-25 i believe.


----------



## twistedspace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DF is BUSY*
> 
> if anybody here has the knowledge to answer, please do;
> 
> testing overclocks on a 3770k (not delidded);
> 
> currently at 1.380 bios vcore for 4.8ghz-
> 2 hours of p95 so far, using tc14pe and pk1 TIM result in max temps of 82, 92, 94, 87. are temps normal for where I'm at? (taking no delid + current vcore into consideration) Should I reseat the phanteks? reapply tim? my ambient is like 23-25 i believe.


im no expert but you might want to reduce your overclock. i think intel processors shut the computer down when they reach 100c. i wouldnt go to 4.8 on intels horrible internal tim. i wouldnt know about that though because i use lga 2011. can i get some backup knowedge from someone who knows better?


----------



## A7xConnor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DF is BUSY*
> 
> if anybody here has the knowledge to answer, please do;
> 
> testing overclocks on a 3770k (not delidded);
> 
> currently at 1.380 bios vcore for 4.8ghz-
> 2 hours of p95 so far, using tc14pe and pk1 TIM result in max temps of 82, 92, 94, 87. are temps normal for where I'm at? (taking no delid + current vcore into consideration) Should I reseat the phanteks? reapply tim? my ambient is like 23-25 i believe.


Sounds a bit high to me. I see like, 4.6 around 50-60 with this cooler anyway. But I think after about 4.5/.6 Ivy tends to need a bit more of a push in voltage than everything prior to that. Ivy isn't as bad as Haswell when it comes to temperatures.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DF is BUSY*
> 
> if anybody here has the knowledge to answer, please do;
> 
> testing overclocks on a 3770k (not delidded);
> 
> currently at 1.380 bios vcore for 4.8ghz-
> 2 hours of p95 so far, using tc14pe and pk1 TIM result in max temps of 82, 92, 94, 87. are temps normal for where I'm at? (taking no delid + current vcore into consideration) Should I reseat the phanteks? reapply tim? my ambient is like 23-25 i believe.


Okay, your room is pretty warm, but what is the air temp going into cooler? In other words, is your case airflow keeping the case cool?

Think of your room as your house, the case as your family room and the CPU as the fireplace. When you use the fireplace the family room gets warmer than rest of house.


----------



## DF is BUSY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A7xConnor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DF is BUSY*
> 
> if anybody here has the knowledge to answer, please do;
> 
> testing overclocks on a 3770k (not delidded);
> 
> currently at 1.380 bios vcore for 4.8ghz-
> 2 hours of p95 so far, using tc14pe and pk1 TIM result in max temps of 82, 92, 94, 87. are temps normal for where I'm at? (taking no delid + current vcore into consideration) Should I reseat the phanteks? reapply tim? my ambient is like 23-25 i believe.
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds a bit high to me. I see like, 4.6 around 50-60 with this cooler anyway. But I think after about 4.5/.6 Ivy tends to need a bit more of a push in voltage than everything prior to that. Ivy isn't as bad as Haswell when it comes to temperatures.
Click to expand...

yeah, my temps when i was on 4.6 were around 50-60 iirc, maybe mid 60s. im just wondering if those temps at my settings seem normal with this heatsink


----------



## DF is BUSY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DF is BUSY*
> 
> if anybody here has the knowledge to answer, please do;
> 
> testing overclocks on a 3770k (not delidded);
> 
> currently at 1.380 bios vcore for 4.8ghz-
> 2 hours of p95 so far, using tc14pe and pk1 TIM result in max temps of 82, 92, 94, 87. are temps normal for where I'm at? (taking no delid + current vcore into consideration) Should I reseat the phanteks? reapply tim? my ambient is like 23-25 i believe.
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, your room is pretty warm, but what is the air temp going into cooler? In other words, is your case airflow keeping the case cool?
> 
> Think of your room as your house, the case as your family room and the CPU as the fireplace. When you use the fireplace the family room gets warmer than rest of house.
Click to expand...

my case is located in a open location, with a bunch of intake fans sucking in the air around it (only 1x exhaust through the back though







) so i think my case air flow is pretty good.

i thought about flipping my 2x top intake into 2x top exhaust, but it might not make a worlds difference (plus it requires disassembling my rig







)


----------



## doyll

Your cooler intake air temp is critical to CPU cooling... and I learned long ago that thinking something is fine instead of knowing for sure is often a misake.







Every degree warming the air is going into cooler is a degree warmer your CPU is. For example right now my room is 21c, air into cooler is 22c and air out of cooler is 23c.
I use a cheapo digital indoor / outdoor wired remote thermometer with a 20cm stiff insulated wire braided into probe end and a plastic clothspin to position it where I want it.


Just unplugging the top fans will let you know if they are helping or not.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

@DF....
turn your top fans as exhuast..r they 120 or 140mm?
itll atleast drop a ° or 2..what case?
complete setup?
pics please?..
this cooler was designed for low rpm..high pressure airflow..meaning that you can get good high cfm fans off 90+cfm..but it means sqaut if they dont have decent airflo pressure...im not a wizz..but a while back i tuned a different song..i stand corrected..getting the best optimized fans to run @ lowest rpm possable without sacrificing performence..is critical if you aim for best of both worlds..
im not OCed on my i5..and i get temps in the 50's when put under a long term load..gaming for a few hours at a time..

your best bet is to start your oc from scratch again and try keep volts as low as possable..anything past 1.25/..30 is low..but ivy doesnt like it when your killing her babies...do some more reading on OC guides at low volts..


----------



## DF is BUSY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> @DF....
> turn your top fans as exhuast..r they 120 or 140mm?
> itll atleast drop a ° or 2..what case?
> complete setup?
> pics please?..
> this cooler was designed for low rpm..high pressure airflow..meaning that you can get good high cfm fans off 90+cfm..but it means sqaut if they dont have decent airflo pressure...im not a wizz..but a while back i tuned a different song..i stand corrected..getting the best optimized fans to run @ lowest rpm possable without sacrificing performence..is critical if you aim for best of both worlds..
> im not OCed on my i5..and i get temps in the 50's when put under a long term load..gaming for a few hours at a time..
> 
> your best bet is to start your oc from scratch again and try keep volts as low as possable..anything past 1.25/..30 is low..but ivy doesnt like it when your killing her babies...do some more reading on OC guides at low volts..


-top fans are 140mm

-i will take that advice about flipping them into exhaust

-case is lian li k58w, while not the worlds best case... but its far from the worst

-2x 140mm intake fans, 1x 120mm rear exhaust, 2x stock fans on the tc14pe, 2x nzxt top intake fans

-as far as optimizing what rpm at what settings and all that, moot point; i run all my fans on max when overclocking or doing anything load intensive

-my overclock is fine to be honest, a lot of trial and error- i can settle for lower overclocks/volts/temps easily.... but i just wanted to see how far my chip can go (isnt that the point of buying a K-processor in the first place?)

-i frequent all the guides on ivy bridge, and im within or borderline max settings

thanks for the reply though.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

sorry if i hit a nervepoint..just your initial ? wasnt all to savvy for my puni human brain..
cool beans..its also the reason for buying this beasty cooler...i know its a "moot point" i was merely tryin to sound clever..well that didnt pan out...hehehehe..
good one hey...


----------



## Leylan

Hi all. New owner and first build still trying to wade through it. Came here as I saw what happened to a couple of people with the cable snafu. Tmolten received the wrong cables and so did I.

I had sent phantek a support email from their site (included my name/address etc) They wrote back asking for my address (seemed odd being I'd given already) to send new cable. I responded but haven't heard back and even called. So not sure where its going to set.

What really prompted me to register and post however is not only did the cable thing happen to me. But I had purchased the black version and its pipes are pretty crimped up on both sides too. The bottom of the heat sink as others have posted, when I removed the protective film it left some adhesive that was a little stubborn coming off but also around the most of the edges it was pretty rough, there were a lot of scratches. It looked like it hadn't been handled very well to me with the amount of the marks. That said the majority of the sink and its center area were what you would expect, it was just the outside edges that looked a bit beat up. I have installed it (as I didn't know these weren't "normal".) so I don't have any pictures of that atm. I did pull the vid card and snap some shots of the pipes and they are as bad as any I've seen posted here so far.

I've read some of the posts and its true once installed you don't see it. I just wanted a little more assurance that the "crimping" doesn't affect the performance in any negative way??? If any users who have the crimped units can weigh in on this please? (Not sure how we'd know if it affects performance but I'm certain many of you have far more experience in all this than I.

Between that and the cables now I'm wondering if I made as great a choice as I initially had thought. I am not crazy about the crimping but it really is hidden once installed, but if it affects performance of the unit, that's a "deal breaker". I am trying to get this build done for my son (was to be for Christmas) but if I need to RMA this thing that isn't likely going to happen unfortunately.

Thank you all for reading and to any of those who respond.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Ok..nice good photos!!!are yo a photographer?

Have you tried any tests of stock settings or OC on the cpu..like p95? Cinebench?l
take screenshots of before(idle) & after(load) temps..use smthing like hwmonitor..hwinfo..coretemp is very accurate..realtemp-just leave this ones config ar default..just run the setup without gpu..that way its cpu/system temps all the way without axcess heat from a gpu..
You should under normal condision idle @ 20's to 30's..depending on what cpu..room temps..if you hav an ac..turn it on to 20 cold..ti help keep room temps stable..

Any 1 here..this man needs help..its a christmas build..its special..cmon guys/girls


----------



## doyll

@ Leylan
I'm sure your 14PE will work fine. If you are not happy with it contact Phanteks for a advance replacement. Somehow a batch of these rippled black 14PEs' got through quality control and Phanteks is very aware of this problem and will replace it with one of another color.. don't know when they will have smoother bends in black available.

Here are some pics of coolers with similar rippling and how they performed in reviews. Keep in mind these pics were not taken is shadows or as closeup as yours so ripples are not as defined.

On i7 930 14PE was 25c cooler than stock cooler.. 2c warmer than H100

http://www.legitreviews.com/phanteks-ph-tc14pe-cpu-cooler-review_1759/7

On i5 2500k @4.0GHz 14PE was 38c cooler than stock cooler.. 3c warmer than H100

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Phanteks-PH-TC14PE-CPU-Cooler-Review/1615/6

On i5 2500k @4.7GHz 14PE was 2-3c cooler than NH-D14.

http://www.kitguru.net/components/henry-butt/phanteks-ph-tc14pe-vs-noctua-nh-d14-cpu-cooler-review/5/

On i7 920 @4.0GHz 14PE was 0.75c cooler than NH-D14

http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/phanteks_ph_tc14pe_cpu_cooler_review,14.html


----------



## im2p

I don't think the crimped pipes affect performance too much. I have a black TC14PE with pretty bad pipes. Right now I am running 2x Gentle Typhoons attached. I get about 75C on IBT with a 3930k @ 4.5ghz (1.4v).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leylan*
> 
> Hi all. New owner and first build still trying to wade through it. Came here as I saw what happened to a couple of people with the cable snafu. Tmolten received the wrong cables and so did I.


Assuming you recieved a 4-pin PWM Y-splitter (probably what is supplied with PH-TC12DX for it's PWM fans). The PWM adapter has 4 pin plug to motherboard and 3 pin socket. The 3 pin fans plug into the Y-splitter no problem, but obviously the 4 pin splitter plug will not plug into the 3 pin socket on PWM adapter. Just cut the side of socket so the 4 pin plug will fit onto it. It's a simple modification and does no damage. It just allows 4 pin plug to fit.

The first 3 pins on PWM 4 pin fan are the same as a 3 pin fan; 1 = Gnd, 2 = 12v or variable voltage, 3 = rpm.. and 4 = PWM signal . And you can plug a 3 pin fan into a 4 pin socket or plug a 4pin fan into a 3 pin socket.. but the end of the socket must be open to allow the 4th pin part of plug into the 3 pin socket housing.


----------



## Leylan

My thanks to everyone who has responded so far.
Predator: No not a photog just lucky once in awhile.

Doyll : I see what you mean about using what they sent my one concern on that is that one of their 4 pin males is missing a pin, so not matter what way you would plug one of the 3 pin females from the fan into it, only two pins would be inside the 3 pin female from the fan. I don't think I'm explaining it well so will try and show here what I mean with what follows representing a plug end head on: //// That would be what it looks like looking head onto the Y that came, the "hold tab" for the one on the left that is missing that pin falls in line with the first two from the left and the missing pin spot. I'm not experienced or versed enough to know, it seemed to me I'd be cutting a wire feed from the 3 pin and that wouldn't be a good thing. So if you're sure that's "ok" then I would like to fire it up and see if all the components work. I had some wiring I was finishing up last night now all I lack are the 4 case fans and the 2 on the phanteks.

I also see what you mean about the pictures you showed those units look fairly crimped and not in black at that also. I've got a lot of data running around my head but from what I recall the 14pe was within a couple degrees of the h100's in other reviews so that would seem to lend that it doesn't drastically alter performance?

Phantek's I still have not heard back from. Thought that whole thing was odd. I sent an email through their support site completely filled out and with the issue at that time which was the cables. Part of that form asks for your address which I gave, I got a reply back asking for my address. Which I sent and then some, but I have heard nothing back, maybe that means they are shipping and just haven't sent the tracking info.

I really appreciate everyone's efforts on my behalf, all builds are special in their own way but this one being for my son takes on a deeper meaning for me. Some asked so I can provide more data. The case is a Haf 932 advanced. Haswell gen i7-4770k. I probably oversplurged on the card gtx 780 ftw. Which has its own issues looking at it, it seems, bowed, looking closer it seems more like the internal heat fins are "angle bent" a little. making it look a little bowed out toward the end of the card. I'm hoping that that is just "aesthetics" and nothing more too.

Thank you all very much for any and all help given.


----------



## doyll

If I'm understanding you the 'Y' splitter has 2 pins on one side and 3 pins on other? The 3rd pin is rpm. not needed for fans. Only want one fan sending rpm signal.


----------



## Kyashan

I'm considering buying this fantastic air cooler, I wanted to know if I can install it on 4 ram modules ripjaws x g skills, I read that you can move the fan up so as not to interfere with the ram, this solution has some contraindications? (Motherboard - Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3)








Sorry for my bad english
Regards


----------



## doyll

I believe Ripjaws X are 40mm tall. 14PE has 48mm from bottom fan to motherboard. Fan can be moved up and down on cooler but 40mm RAM and 140mm fan is 180mm from motherboard to side cover.
That translates into needing a case with 174mm CPU clearance for a 140mm fan to fit on top of RAM.

Running with one fan only raises CPU temp 1c.
Second fan can be put on back of cooler instead of front.


----------



## twistedspace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I believe Ripjaws X are 40mm tall. 14PE has 48mm from bottom fan to motherboard. Fan can be moved up and down on cooler but 40mm RAM and 140mm fan is 180mm from motherboard to side cover.
> That translates into needing a case with 174mm CPU clearance for a 140mm fan to fit on top of RAM.
> 
> Running with one fan only raises CPU temp 1c.
> Second fan can be put on back of cooler instead of front.


he could also put one fan on the opposite side of the ram. the way phanteks recommends you place your fans places the bottom of the fan 38 mm from the base of the heatsink according to the schematic of their website,
but the fan can be raised to accomodate.

you also have to take into account the socket height and how much clearance it adds and the clearance from the top of the fans to the case side panel to know how much you can raise them

ripjaws x is 40mm. you also have to add 1 or 2 mm because the dimm slot itself raises the ram slightly


----------



## X-PREDATOR

heres an odd idea..why not do what noctua did too the d14..
i did it..and no issues...
put a 120 on front
140 in middle..just get matching fans..with a proper y 4pin pwm splitter..alot less hassle than using including splitters....


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> heres an odd idea..why not do what noctua did too the d14..
> i did it..and no issues...
> put a 120 on front
> 140 in middle..just get matching fans..with a proper y 4pin pwm splitter..alot less hassle than using including splitters....


That would mean 2 new PWM fans and a PWM splitter. Rather expensive solution for 1c improvement in cooling over running just one stock fan.









There are other coolers that will clear RAM if it is an issue... but most are probably end up with same CPU temp as 1 fan on Phanteks or maybe 1c warmer.









Reality is 1 fan / 2 fans / 3 fans it's more about looks than performance.. even at maximum OC.









PH-TC14PE on i7 920 @ 4.00GHz
Passive 60.5c
1x fans 52.75c
2x fans 51.75c
3x fans 50.75c

2 [email protected] 55c

http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/phanteks_ph_tc14pe_cpu_cooler_review,13.html


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leylan*
> 
> My thanks to everyone who has responded so far.
> Predator: No not a photog just lucky once in awhile.
> 
> Doyll : I see what you mean about using what they sent my one concern on that is that one of their 4 pin males is missing a pin, so not matter what way you would plug one of the 3 pin females from the fan into it, only two pins would be inside the 3 pin female from the fan. I don't think I'm explaining it well so will try and show here what I mean with what follows representing a plug end head on: //// That would be what it looks like looking head onto the Y that came, the "hold tab" for the one on the left that is missing that pin falls in line with the first two from the left and the missing pin spot. I'm not experienced or versed enough to know, it seemed to me I'd be cutting a wire feed from the 3 pin and that wouldn't be a good thing. So if you're sure that's "ok" then I would like to fire it up and see if all the components work. I had some wiring I was finishing up last night now all I lack are the 4 case fans and the 2 on the phanteks.
> 
> I also see what you mean about the pictures you showed those units look fairly crimped and not in black at that also. I've got a lot of data running around my head but from what I recall the 14pe was within a couple degrees of the h100's in other reviews so that would seem to lend that it doesn't drastically alter performance?
> 
> Phantek's I still have not heard back from. Thought that whole thing was odd. I sent an email through their support site completely filled out and with the issue at that time which was the cables. Part of that form asks for your address which I gave, I got a reply back asking for my address. Which I sent and then some, but I have heard nothing back, maybe that means they are shipping and just haven't sent the tracking info.
> 
> I really appreciate everyone's efforts on my behalf, all builds are special in their own way but this one being for my son takes on a deeper meaning for me. Some asked so I can provide more data. The case is a Haf 932 advanced. Haswell gen i7-4770k. I probably oversplurged on the card gtx 780 ftw. Which has its own issues looking at it, it seems, bowed, looking closer it seems more like the internal heat fins are "angle bent" a little. making it look a little bowed out toward the end of the card. I'm hoping that that is just "aesthetics" and nothing more too.
> 
> Thank you all very much for any and all help given.


First of all, welcome to the forum! Overclock.net is a fantastic place filled with great people.

As for your PH-TC14PE, it will probably perform just fine as other have mentioned. I have an i7-950 and my idle temps are anywhere from 28-35C. The load temps are phenomenal. I was running Prime95 yesterday (at 3.2Ghz, not a huge overclock) and max CPU temp was 60C. I'm only using 1 of the 2 fans (at ~1,100 RPM) that came with the CPU cooler since the other fan chirps. Phanteks said I could send back the chirping fan and get a replacement but I decided that it was more trouble than its worth.

You have to keep on the Phanteks folks. I sent periodic emails to their rma email reminding them that I was still here. Sometimes I had to send three emails before getting a response from them. The process is slow so I'd probably skip it if the build is going to be a Christmas present.

Good luck!


----------



## Kyashan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I believe Ripjaws X are 40mm tall. 14PE has 48mm from bottom fan to motherboard. Fan can be moved up and down on cooler but 40mm RAM and 140mm fan is 180mm from motherboard to side cover.
> That translates into needing a case with 174mm CPU clearance for a 140mm fan to fit on top of RAM.
> 
> Running with one fan only raises CPU temp 1c.
> Second fan can be put on back of cooler instead of front.


The case is a Fractal Design Arc XL with space for CPU coolers up to 180mm


----------



## Kyashan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twistedspace*
> 
> he could also put one fan on the opposite side of the ram. the way phanteks recommends you place your fans places the bottom of the fan 38 mm from the base of the heatsink according to the schematic of their website,
> but the fan can be raised to accomodate.
> 
> you also have to take into account the socket height and how much clearance it adds and the clearance from the top of the fans to the case side panel to know how much you can raise them
> 
> ripjaws x is 40mm. you also have to add 1 or 2 mm because the dimm slot itself raises the ram slightly


FAQ compatibility ram is well explained, but my motherboard is not present in the list of the site, this can be a problem?

(Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyashan*
> 
> The case is a Fractal Design Arc XL with space for CPU coolers up to 180mm


Should be no problem. That's 188mm to motherboard (


----------



## X-PREDATOR

this case?
http://www.google.com/search?q=Fractal+Design+Arc+XL&client=ms-opera-mini-android&channel=new&prmd=ivns&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=N1mzUvmAEIGK4ATlwIDACQ&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ

b..e..A..U..ti..full..
thats plenty of space..my predator is about
same..is about 280mm from 1 side panel to the other..from top of my cooler ive got roughly 30mm clearance to the sidepanel..i can put 2 140mm fans on still and have about 5mm clearance..

so long story short..youll be fine..nice choice for a case..

doyll can you please pm me..did you end up getting the enthoo primo?


----------



## Kyashan

Yes this Case







I was impressed with this full tower that is larger in size than in the picture and excellent internal construction, the case is very solid and heavy
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Should be no problem. That's 188mm to motherboard (


This is a good notice








thank you


----------



## Leylan

Want to thank you all who helped with the last dilemma. New one now. I bought yet another 14pe and this one was supposed to be brand new however the mounting plate has a screw ring "scar" on top of it. I can live with that but the problem is it came:
1. without the rubber dampening strips,
2. without the 12 inserts for the fans that the clips slip through
3. came without the male mounting plate screw (the single one that goes in the plate center)

To boot it was missing 2 clips as well. This is the 2nd phanteks I've purchased in a month that has had missing hardware. The first was a black model that the pipes and the sink face were fairly bent mangled up. I didn't realize how much the sink face was scratched until getting this one (ordered red). I'm 1500 miles from home trying to do another build before going home.

Is there anyone with workarounds to these issues? I'm not sure what could replace the dampening strips or how important, i'm not sure what options there are for bypassing no fan inserts for the clips without damaging fins on the sink tower. Not sure if or where to find a male mounting plate screw.

For the record I never did get but one response from Phantek on the last issue, asking me for address when I'd already given it. Never received those missing wires despite a few emails and one call. I'm frankly not holding out much hope for phantek's customer service and to boot i'm a bit under the gun on time.

Pretty certain despite being good on paper this will be the last of their coolers I buy. The boxing on this phantek was different than the last also. The last was cased in "foam" this one more in a cardboard thing.

I'd like to try and make this work but I don't know what my options are. I just got these in tonight If I had known this was going to happen could have explored other options at a micro center but that's 4 hours one way and we just went there sunday.

Any and all thoughts suggestions or ideas welcome. Please post. Thank you so very much.

Edit: Upon even further inspection it comes with the old style 3 spoke no rubber rings ph140ts fans (new units list as ph140 premium fans and if you compare them they actually match up to the ph140hp fans). Don't know what difference this makes. Its like some strange open box conglomeration of ....


----------



## X-PREDATOR

wow..this is so not acceptable..cmon phanteks..were are you..


----------



## X-PREDATOR

im gonna try search for a rep..gonna showem this...its not right..cmon other peeps..this man needs super phanteks support..
ok..
fan clips..you can use the smallest possable ziptie to make own clips..
fan rubbers..get adhesive foam strips..cut small bits just for corners of the fans..works just as good..
mounting plate..ooh cant help you there....

will let yo know if i find a rep..


----------



## X-PREDATOR

http://www.overclock.net/u/299526/phanteks-rep

i sent him a very in detail msg..hopefully hell be here to adress these issues of their stuff...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leylan*
> 
> Want to thank you all who helped with the last dilemma. New one now. I bought yet another 14pe and this one was supposed to be brand new however the mounting plate has a screw ring "scar" on top of it. I can live with that but the problem is it came:
> 1. without the rubber dampening strips,
> 2. without the 12 inserts for the fans that the clips slip through
> 3. came without the male mounting plate screw (the single one that goes in the plate center)
> 
> To boot it was missing 2 clips as well. This is the 2nd phanteks I've purchased in a month that has had missing hardware. The first was a black model that the pipes and the sink face were fairly bent mangled up. I didn't realize how much the sink face was scratched until getting this one (ordered red). I'm 1500 miles from home trying to do another build before going home.
> 
> Is there anyone with workarounds to these issues? I'm not sure what could replace the dampening strips or how important, i'm not sure what options there are for bypassing no fan inserts for the clips without damaging fins on the sink tower. Not sure if or where to find a male mounting plate screw.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> For the record I never did get but one response from Phantek on the last issue, asking me for address when I'd already given it. Never received those missing wires despite a few emails and one call. I'm frankly not holding out much hope for phantek's customer service and to boot i'm a bit under the gun on time.
> 
> Pretty certain despite being good on paper this will be the last of their coolers I buy. The boxing on this phantek was different than the last also. The last was cased in "foam" this one more in a cardboard thing.
> 
> I'd like to try and make this work but I don't know what my options are. I just got these in tonight If I had known this was going to happen could have explored other options at a micro center but that's 4 hours one way and we just went there sunday.
> 
> Any and all thoughts suggestions or ideas welcome. Please post. Thank you so very much.
> 
> Edit: Upon even further inspection it comes with the old style 3 spoke no rubber rings ph140ts fans (new units list as ph140 premium fans and if you compare them they actually match up to the ph140hp fans). Don't know what difference this makes.
> 
> 
> Its like some strange open box conglomeration of ....


Indeed sounds like your supplier sent you a returned/open box product. Have never heard of this kind of problem from Phanteks. Is the PWM adapter included?

Is this from the same supplier as your first one?

* Rubber dampening strips are not critical. I've ran with and without and didn't notice any difference in noise.
* I've made the pins using zip-ties. Feed zip-tie though hole & back i.nto itself, put something through zip-tie loop about 1/16" in diameter (to make a loop for fan clip), pull zip-tie tight and clip off excess
* Center screw is not necessary. Or you can use any screw with same threads you have handy.


----------



## Leylan

Thanks for the replies guys am open to any ideas. I can try the zip ties and without the need for the rubber that would probably work, The center screw just helps you get the two spring screws going right? Or does it help center and pressure it too or does that solely fall on the two outer?

Indeed I can't believe one has to go through all this nonsense for what is supposed to be a quality product. As to suppliers first was through newegg this 2nd was through amazon (NOT used was supposed to be NEW). It is clear this thing had been out somewhere there is a clear screw mark circle on that top mount plate. I don't get it truly. First time I just semi chalked it up to it happens to all of them. Though now that I see the pipes on this red one that black one was pretty crumpled and the sink was definitely scarred up. Stuff sometimes happens but twice now in a row with poor hardware etc doesn't make me feel warm and fuzzy especially when you email from their site (not this time yet) they ask you what your address is when it was included with your first emessage. I think I mentioned it before but also came with 4 instead of 6 clips. Its just crazy. Might be able to find a screw that would work from a hardware store. Yes btw to answer it did actually come with what seems like the correct wires this time. That's about where it stops. Is very frustrating. Thank you also for trying to contact a rep. After the last go round of 3 emails and a phone call where they took name and number and promised a tech would call me back and they never did I just gave up and being time is an issue once again.... I can't say I have a lot of hope re: their corner.


----------



## doyll

Black cooler from Newegg was a Phanteks issue.

Red cooler from Amazon is retail supplier, not Phanteks.

Yes, screw in center of crossbar only holds crossbar in place until cooler is mounted. Can't remember for sure what screw thread it is, but it is one of the common screws in component builds.. HDD mounting screw (2 kinds) or optical bay mounting screw come to mind.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

well if time is an issue..i dont want to say it..but otherwise its new years eve tonight..most places and companies close till after 5th or 15th jan 2014..
if phanteks dont sort you out..as yo said its a time issue..get a full refund and go for a different cooler..a silver arrow..d14..h100i ..extreme 2.0..i do agree its sad to see a company come forward in this industry with huge bang..but later on start to fall off the cliff..


----------



## doyll

That's being unfair X-Predator.









Phanteks has had very few problems and most are resolved without our even knowing about them. The few here in our thread have been exceptional cases.. and are usually resolved within a week or two.

A few of us praise Phanteks but most of the time satisfied customers are silent... and we only see posts of the few having problems that as far as I can tell Phanteks has always resolved to the customer's satisfaction.


----------



## Leylan

Thanks everyone for your help. Have no choice with it being new years going to check locally (not a lot of stores that I'm aware of that carry many components here) and see what they have and if nothing decent then will have to try and make this work. Really not too happy of twice now having to cobble things together for these coolers. Lot of time and aggravation and money out the door that was already paid to have the product intact and there simply isn't any getting around that.

Doyll to a point I agree with you. The black one was definitely phantek's all the way from the crumpled pipes and poorly done sink face but too was their error on hardware with the wrong wires; not the first one I've seen that they have done that too. I would tend to agree that amazon is going to get a call over this deal. I double checked order to make sure there was no snafu... condition: new. Clearly this is not only not new but old stock and missing hardware to boot. Be it having been missing to begin with that saw it "open boxed" or not I don't know.

What I do know though is despite my attempts to contact their customer support on the previous purchase they definitely did not resolve it and honestly made pretty much zero effort to. I can't "gig" them completely on this one but it certainly makes me wonder if something was missing in it originally. Will never know that one. Two issues with the same cooler in a month doesn't lend to confidence in the future for me. It's clear they make a fine product from all the reviews I've seen. Perhaps just unlucky on my end.

Anyway I hope you all have a Happy New Year... need to run


----------



## doyll

I do understand your frustatration Leylan. I've be on & off the forum today. If there is anything I can do to help just holler.. very loud!.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

not being unfair

im in south africa..and the only seller of phanteks..D.ont sell their stuff any longer..so im goin to have an even harder time to rma..if ever...if needed..
so no..they should step up their game..be more pro-active with their clientel.
if i can email Cooler master all the way from here..and they help me with an issue or advise..why cant phanteks help the owners off their goods?
u never told me..did u get their primo? how is it..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> not being unfair
> 
> im in south africa..and the only seller of phanteks..D.ont sell their stuff any longer..so im goin to have an even harder time to rma..if ever...if needed..
> so no..they should step up their game..be more pro-active with their clientel.
> if i can email Cooler master all the way from here..and they help me with an issue or advise..why cant phanteks help the owners off their goods?
> u never told me..did u get their primo? how is it..


I empathize with Leylan but only the first cooler is a Phanteks problem. Second cooler is all on Amazon for selling a used/returned/opened and tampered with cooler as being new. Nothing Phanteks can do about that except stop sell to Amazon retailers.. and that's not an option

When I RMA'ed (had a bottom fin seem a little loose after many install / remove / installs) Phanteks send me a new cooler (won't trade me a black on for my red one) with a return UPS shipping label. I put new cooler on, put old cooler in the box with new shipping label and called UPS to pick it up. The replacement cooler was just a cooler with no accessories except TIM, but that was all I needed. And yes, it was an international shipment.

Phanteks has always been very helpful when I've had a question or or needed something.

And yes, I have an Enthoo Primo I'm working on.

The majority of issues we've seen here on forum are the bad batch of black coolers.. or having wrong splitter.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leylan*
> 
> Thanks everyone for your help. Have no choice with it being new years going to check locally (not a lot of stores that I'm aware of that carry many components here) and see what they have and if nothing decent then will have to try and make this work. Really not too happy of twice now having to cobble things together for these coolers. Lot of time and aggravation and money out the door that was already paid to have the product intact and there simply isn't any getting around that.
> 
> Doyll to a point I agree with you. The black one was definitely phantek's all the way from the crumpled pipes and poorly done sink face but too was their error on hardware with the wrong wires; not the first one I've seen that they have done that too. I would tend to agree that amazon is going to get a call over this deal. I double checked order to make sure there was no snafu... condition: new. Clearly this is not only not new but old stock and missing hardware to boot. Be it having been missing to begin with that saw it "open boxed" or not I don't know.
> 
> What I do know though is despite my attempts to contact their customer support on the previous purchase they definitely did not resolve it and honestly made pretty much zero effort to. I can't "gig" them completely on this one but it certainly makes me wonder if something was missing in it originally. Will never know that one. Two issues with the same cooler in a month doesn't lend to confidence in the future for me. It's clear they make a fine product from all the reviews I've seen. Perhaps just unlucky on my end.
> 
> Anyway I hope you all have a Happy New Year... need to run


I think that you hit on the solution, just try to get something locally if possible. It seems your second CPU cooler just has too many issues. Good luck!

I got an RMA replacement from Phanteks about 2 months back and it came with the old fans (3 spokes) as well, not the new PH-F140 Premium Fans.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

doyll...do you have build log i can check out..
well then your a lucky client to get such royalty from them..
even if its a retailers fault..its still falls on phanteks as the manufacturer to sort it out if said retail shop keeps messing up..if i may..
example..i buaght over 100.000 Rand of goods from a supplier/store ..within less than 3 months a few years ago...they were amazing.but aftersales became a real nightmare to deal with them..so i changed over to newer and better pastures..
its the same principal here with op in need of help..if phanteks dont check up quickly on these bad batches and other issues..people will just stop buying from these places and in turn their products..
i paid almost 1500 for my cooler..and if i wanted to send it back..i cant..the store no longer sells phanteks.which means its back to liquid or custom loop for cooling if i ever want to upgrade..
agreed on previous poster..get something else or local...


----------



## Leylan

Just a quick follow up. Unfortunately where I am locally there was Nothing in the league of premium air cool. If anyone else ever gets one without that set screw you can get some number 6 washers 2 worked for me and a case thumb screw one of the ones that have the double flange so a large head like the orig piece would have and the smaller "barrel" beneath it. This worked perfectly as an alternative. Though I didn't spend a lot of time and could have made them a bit better, thanks Doyll... the zip tie trick worked. I never found any rubber dampening material stopping at 2 other stores. But its up and downloading updates at this moment. Side is still open seems "ok". Have a fair bit of cable management left but there will be another very happy young man.

Doyll you got great service and I don't blame you a bit sticking in their corner. I'm admittedly a bit leery. This was filled and shipped by amazon btw, as I usually steer clear if it isn't. I know its a bit bad time of year to get under the gun on 2 builds in December but such is how it went.

Thank all of you as after I got over the want to take a hammer to things and was left with no other recourses at least the workarounds appear to be solutions. Really didn't want to put a stock sink on this rig.

Never did post what the rigs were this one was Asus Maximus VI Formula, 840 evo ssd 250gb, wd black 1tb, asus brom dvd/cd burner. The cooler atop an i7 4770k with a seasonic gold 850 (last one was plat 860) and a 780 ftw evga acx cooler to start things off with. This case was a CM Storm Trooper, the last a 932 advanced.

I wish you all a very Merry New Year and thank you all again.


----------



## doyll

X-Predator
If you were Phanteks and Amazon sent cooler like Leylan received would you quit supplying Amazon with your coolers? Keep in mind Amazon is buying at least as many coolers for resale as any other retailer so you would be loosing a lot of income / market share.

Leylan
I can understand your being leery. I think Phanteks will treat you right when it's all said and done.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i wouldnt..but i would atleast run a more strict qaulity control department if i were them..but im not them..so can you stop defending them...i love them just as much..but its bcause i likem so much im furious to see the peeps having issues with their item(s)....

have you started the build log yet for the primo case..i still say it shouldve been a few mm wider and longer by 25mm..i still would like to get 1..but shipping is so expensive its not worth it at moment..


----------



## DirkDaring

eff newegg, eff phanteks. ALL i wanted for christmas was a black 14pe wryyyyyyyy. In other news newegg's rma is now ignoring my emails about them sending me back the same cooler. and no response from phanteks about it.


----------



## doyll

Phanteks is responsible for quality control of their product.. in the same way a captain is responsible for what his crew does.. The issues with black coolers were not directly under Phanteks's quality control. They were a result of manufacturer's quality control. Phanteks only finds out there was a problem when customers received bad coolers.. At least a month, more like 2-3 months after they are made.

Keep in mind this same manufacturer has been running batches of coolers every sense Phanteks started selling coolers over 2 years ago.. and first problems with black cooler was 4 months ago.


----------



## DirkDaring

so we're supposed to blame the outsourced manufacturer? it's their brand name, you put your name on something it's yours and you better be ready to stand by it and save it or it's going to drag you down with it. whether you outsource (hire mercenaries) or do it inhouse (your own handpicked crew) it's still your command, your group, your show. everybody loves phanteks for being rock solid and heart touching like asus. so when people gripe? it's more of a "get you ***** together please" wake up call.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirkDaring*
> 
> so we're supposed to blame the outsourced manufacturer? it's their brand name, you put your name on something it's yours and you better be ready to stand by it and save it or it's going to drag you down with it. whether you outsource (hire mercenaries) or do it inhouse (your own handpicked crew) it's still your command, your group, your show. everybody loves phanteks for being rock solid and heart touching like asus. so when people gripe? it's more of a "get you ***** together please" wake up call.


Please read the first sentence of my last post
_"Phanteks is responsible for quality control of their product.. in the same way a captain is responsible for what his crew does."_

As for outsourcing or doing it in house. Who has the equipment in house to manufacture coolers? Almost everybody (not just must cooler companies) outsource the manufacturing.

I agree and am sure Phanteks is "getting it together."


----------



## DirkDaring

meanwhile i'm stuck out in the cold misreading stuff and still with a deformed black 14pe. santa took the cookies and bounced......


----------



## X-PREDATOR

dam you santa..did he smoke the zoot too?
hehehaha..
well id like to see a new version of this cooler..with true 4pin fans rated for max 1300rpm..100+cfm ..and if possable a little bit lighter..its not as heavy..but a little bit lighter would be great for those who worry..enable it with 6 or even 10 6mm heatpipes and i garantee there wont be an air cooler able to come close to this things power...and ive said before..a 110% flat mirror polished base..maybe an even easier way to mount than already..how about it doyllan..you seem to have good communication with them


----------



## DirkDaring

half assed job santa hit and ran.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

thats a nasty santa..maybe next xmas make a petrol bomb fire under his hiney...hehehe..or invite him for a lan..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> dam you santa..did he smoke the zoot too?
> hehehaha..
> well id like to see a new version of this cooler..with true 4pin fans rated for max 1300rpm..100+cfm ..and if possable a little bit lighter..its not as heavy..but a little bit lighter would be great for those who worry..enable it with 6 or even 10 6mm heatpipes and i garantee there wont be an air cooler able to come close to this things power...and ive said before..a 110% flat mirror polished base..maybe an even easier way to mount than already..how about it doyllan..you seem to have good communication with them


Yeah, true PWM fans would be nice. Something in the 600-1500rpm or maybe 600-1800rpm for maximum performance when running high overclock benchmarks. I'm quite fond of 600-2500rpm cooler fans on cooler with 600-1300rpm case fans on same PWM signal. both are about 650-700rpm idle and full load is 1000rpm cooler with 900rpm case.. but if I want to go crazy it's 2400rpm cooler and 1300rpm case.









Why 6mm heatpipes? The 5x-8mm used now do very well.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

ok then 8 or 10 8mm pipes















:thumb:







:thumb:








:thumb:
1 thing that would also be good is if these fans of theres can do high airflow and high h20
from the ones I have..they don't move a lot of air..but are good static pressure optimized
got 1 in my cases front 5,25 bays as intake..does ok but I cant feel any air from it hardly..but must say I run it from fancontroller
1 thing also these are terribly loud when running full tilt...

my secondary setup was giving me a hard time till now..used the other fan that came with the cooler and ziptied it on side panel with a speed reducer adaptor..put it on so the gpu and NB his gets some flow over..for some reason when I had it running full speed the temps were higher
now full load the cpu on this setup runs max 45...max cores 49/50...gpu...50..mbo nb 62

sorry for posting it here
just realy want doyllan s opinion

@leylan..has phanteks rep contacted you yet?
I got a thank you from him after linking him to your post in this thread and asking him a few abrupt ?'s


----------



## twistedspace

commented before about base damage but didnt want take out heatsink to take pictures. (thermal paste is expensive)
got a 4930k so i took pictures while it was off.



do not expect or want rma. just for documentation on the forum

i dont mean the machining marks but the scratches and small dents


----------



## Leylan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> @leylan..has phanteks rep contacted you yet?
> I got a thank you from him after linking him to your post in this thread and asking him a few abrupt ?'s


I just got home after getting bound in by the storms in the east haven't been on since my last response. I do have a message dated from the 2nd from someone that would appear to be phantek rep. Just replied to them so we'll see what happens. I made it all work but as I told him, knowing what I know now, I would have rma'd both the units, time just didn't allow. I know "stuff" happens sometimes but certainly a bit of bad luck run for me on them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twistedspace*
> 
> commented before about base damage but didnt want take out heatsink to take pictures. (thermal paste is expensive)
> got a 4930k so i took pictures while it was off.
> 
> 
> 
> do not expect or want rma. just for documentation on the forum
> 
> i dont mean the machining marks but the scratches and small dents


I wanted to confirm along with twistedspace here, that black one, the first one I got... its base was At Least that bad and yes not talking about the machine marks but the scoring and scarring like someone used it for a hammer or something atrocious. Like yours the center area of the black one I had gotten was fairly good and what you'd expect but until I saw the red one (2nd one I got) I didn't realize just how mangled the black is. That said... and the black one is in a build that at least during this winter is kept in a very cooled space its temps are running nicely. not sure how it will do under hard load or when winter gives way to summer. The red one didn't seem to have as good of temps but it was built in a different workspace and so likely different temps in the rooms. Despite my issues there are two very happy young men this Christmas. Thanks everyone and may the new year bring the best to you all.


----------



## coelacanth

Just ordered 2x Thermalright TY-147s and the Gelid PWM 1-to-4 Splitter. I was looking at the TY-143 but 2,500 RPMs scared me off. The color of the TY-147 is better with my build too.

I'm doing a new build. I replaced my venerable G.Skill Ripjaws with some G.Skill Trident X. I'm going to take the fin off of the Trident X and I hope that will allow my to put the second fan on my PH-TC14PE that sits over the RAM while also keeping the door fan on my Cooler Master Storm Sniper. With the G.Skill Ripjaws below the front fan on the PH-TC14PE, the fan sat too high on the cooler for me to keep the 200mm fan on the door of my case. Even after I replaced the 200mm door fan with a slightly slimmer BitFenix 200mm fan it still wouldn't fit.

I'm hoping that the Trident X with the fin off of it will be low profile enough for me to put a TY-147 above them and still keep my 200mm BitFenix intake on the door of my case. If it's going to work it's going to be very close!

Thanks to doyll and X-PREDATOR for all the help.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Just ordered 2x Thermalright TY-147s and the Gelid PWM 1-to-4 Splitter. I was looking at the TY-143 but 2,500 RPMs scared me off. The color of the TY-147 is better with my build too.
> 
> I'm doing a new build. I replaced my venerable G.Skill Ripjaws with some G.Skill Trident X. I'm going to take the fin off of the Trident X and I hope that will allow my to put the second fan on my PH-TC14PE that sits over the RAM while also keeping the door fan on my Cooler Master Storm Sniper. With the G.Skill Ripjaws below the front fan on the PH-TC14PE, the fan sat too high on the cooler for me to keep the 200mm fan on the door of my case. Even after I replaced the 200mm door fan with a slightly slimmer BitFenix 200mm fan it still wouldn't fit.
> 
> I'm hoping that the Trident X with the fin off of it will be low profile enough for me to put a TY-147 above them and still keep my 200mm BitFenix intake on the door of my case. If it's going to work it's going to be very close!
> 
> Thanks to doyll and X-PREDATOR for all the help.


You are very welcome









Cooler and fan clearance with side fan all depends on how side fan and CPU placement interact.

TridentX: 54mm w/ fin; 39mm w/o fin
Fan 140mm + RAM 39mm + socket 2-3mm = 181-182mm motherboard to side cover.
CPU clearance (dependent on motherboard CPU socket placement) 165mm w/ side fan, 190mm w/o side fan*
* http://www.overclock.net/t/519046/the-cooler-master-storm-sniper-club/2440_20#post_12790667


----------



## A7xConnor

Got a PH-TC14PE_BK coming in soon for my new build, hopefully it's in good nick.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

@coelacanth...always a pleasure bro..u know yo can use a 120mm on front of this tower..the included tabs and clips works flawlessly ..then you can use the ty 140"s yo baught in middle and back for a nice low rpm 3 fan config for amazing temps...plus you don't have to remove the ram heatsinks then

untitled.png 67k .png file


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You are very welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cooler and fan clearance with side fan all depends on how side fan and CPU placement interact.
> 
> TridentX: 54mm w/ fin; 39mm w/o fin
> Fan 140mm + RAM 39mm + socket 2-3mm = 181-182mm motherboard to side cover.
> CPU clearance (dependent on motherboard CPU socket placement) 165mm w/ side fan, 190mm w/o side fan*
> * http://www.overclock.net/t/519046/the-cooler-master-storm-sniper-club/2440_20#post_12790667


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> @coelacanth...always a pleasure bro..u know yo can use a 120mm on front of this tower..the included tabs and clips works flawlessly ..then you can use the ty 140"s yo baught in middle and back for a nice low rpm 3 fan config for amazing temps...plus you don't have to remove the ram heatsinks then
> 
> untitled.png 67k .png file


You guys are probably right. Even with the lower profile Trident X RAM and replacing the door fan with a lower profile BitFenix Spectre Pro (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007OWPFUM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), I still may not be able to run a 140mm fan on the front of my CPU cooler.

Also, looking in the CM Storm Sniper manual it says that CPU cooler should not exceed 180mm. I'm not sure if this is with or without the door fan installed. The stock door fan is 200mm x 200mm x 30mm. The BitFenix I installed is 200mm x 200mm x 25mm, though I had to offset it from the door with rubber grommets because the fan blades, which are flush with the fan housing, were rubbing on the door. So I might have saved 1-2mm there.

Like doyll said, the total height is going to be around 182mm. I think with the new door case fan I might have 182mm of space (180mm normally, with 2mm extra from going with the 25mm BitFenix). I think it's not going to fit.

You guys got any 120mm PWM fan recommendations?

These look pretty good: Cougar 120mm PWM fans
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553006
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553002

One more question. How do I attach the third fan if I only have 4 fan clips?


----------



## doyll

Install the fans no fan/ cooler/ fan pull/ cooler/ fan pull; rather than normal way of fan push/ cooler/ fan push/ cooler/ no fan


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Install the fans no fan/ cooler/ fan pull/ cooler/ fan pull; rather than normal way of fan push/ cooler/ fan push/ cooler/ no fan


I wonder if the heat sinks around the CPU socket will also hamper my fan placement.
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/MAXIMUS_VI_HERO/#gallery
They look like they might mess with otherwise being able to run the TY-147s as low as possible.

I'll find out next week. Worst case I'll just run 2x 120mm PWM fans.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I wonder if the heat sinks around the CPU socket will also hamper my fan placement.
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/MAXIMUS_VI_HERO/#gallery
> They look like they might mess with otherwise being able to run the TY-147s as low as possible.
> 
> I'll find out next week. Worst case I'll just run 2x 120mm PWM fans.


I doubt you will have any problem. The heat sinks look about the same height as RAM clips... that's not very tall.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

man thats one sexy motherboard..
my vote..if i may..black cougar vortex fans..they are amazing..wish i could get some to redo my hole setups..
like d..said..back fan

note < front to back airflo direction..
> back to front..

...................
147ty rear pull< heatsink

run the two fans from 1 cpu fan header with y splitter..then other 1 from other 4pin cpu header..asus boards normaly have two 4pin cpu fan headers..or try an 8 way swiftech pwm splitter..or akasa..gelid..


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> man thats one sexy motherboard..
> my vote..if i may..black cougar vortex fans..they are amazing..wish i could get some to redo my hole setups..
> like d..said..back fan
> 
> note < front to back airflo direction..
> > back to front..
> 
> ...................
> 147ty rear pull< heatsink
> 
> run the two fans from 1 cpu fan header with y splitter..then other 1 from other 4pin cpu header..asus boards normaly have two 4pin cpu fan headers..or try an 8 way swiftech pwm splitter..or akasa..gelid..


Funny you should mention it, earlier today I bought 2x black Cougar Vortex PWM fans, they were on sale at Newegg. I have the Gelid PWM splitter ready to go. If the TY-147s don't fit I'll be ready with the 120mm Cougars.

I think initially I'll try with 2 fans and see how overclocking the 4770K goes. If I need more cooling I'll try the 147 pull < heatsink < 147 middle pull < heatsink < Cougar 120mm push setup.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

cool bananas...


----------



## doyll

Look forward to seeing how it all works out.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i second this notion..or is it the phanteks motion..hehe


----------



## X-PREDATOR

has any 1 here who has had this cooler for more than 6months noticed any cooling degrading..like at first it doesnt matter what fans..thermal paste used..it cools great..and then suddenly even in room temps around 25-30..you notice your temps are goin higher and higher each time yu use ur pc?

i hit between 49 - 58 on the hottest core during Sniper ghost warrior 2 last nite..this is the highest temps ive seen it go since i got this..
clean the setup on a weekly basis..so almost no dust build up..
in my bios the cpu is at 40+..should i be conserned?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

has any 1 here who has had this cooler for more than 6months noticed any cooling degrading..like at first it doesnt matter what fans..thermal paste used..it cools great..and then suddenly even in room temps around 25-30..you notice your temps are goin higher and higher each time yu use ur pc?

i hit between 49 - 58 on the hottest core during Sniper ghost warrior 2 last nite..this is the highest temps ive seen it go since i got this..
clean the setup on a weekly basis..so almost no dust build up..
in my bios the cpu is at 40+..should i be conserned?


----------



## doyll

25-30c is 5c difference. And is also a 5c difference in CPU temperature.

Wasn't 6 months ago mid winter? And not it's summer? And the next couple of months are the hottest of the year?

I've had my 14PE for almost 2 years (£58.32 on 6 March 2012) and it's cooling as good today as it did 2 years ago.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

I baught this a year ago i feb.2013 hottest time of the year in my erea..i didnt mean 6months as in 6months ago precisely..i meant longer..and you have had this longer than any 1 i know of.
I dont use this setup in daytime only at nite when its a little cooler than day..so im worried for nothing..cool beans..hows the primo goin..pm me a pic or three please..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> I baught this a year ago i feb.2013 hottest time of the year in my erea..i didnt mean 6months as in 6months ago precisely..i meant longer..and you have had this longer than any 1 i know of.
> I dont use this setup in daytime only at nite when its a little cooler than day..so im worried for nothing..cool beans..hows the primo goin..pm me a pic or three please..


My 14PE runs pretty much 24/7 so no worries.
Haven't got Enthoo Primo built yet. Still puttering with it. Working on lighting, have to keep building new castor bases cus people keep wanting them, have 2 more F140SP and 2 F140SP led fans coming, need to get some splitter for them. Trying to find a Gigabyte GA-X58A-OC black/orange motherboard for better color matching,


----------



## X-PREDATOR

@d..castor bases?
what did u say u do for a living???
sounds interesting...ok but i still wana c ho far youve come bro..why x58???
why dont you go over to 1155??
well yo can contact gigabyte directly and ask them for were to get what u want


----------



## A7xConnor

Will this cooler block the first pci-e slot on the Asus Rampage IV Black Edition?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A7xConnor*
> 
> Will this cooler block the first pci-e slot on the Asus Rampage IV Black Edition?


Should fit no problem as it's basically the same and the Rampage IV Extreme & Formula and Phanteks compatability chart has them. Just make sure your RAM isn't to tall.


----------



## A7xConnor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Should fit no problem as it's basically the same and the Rampage IV Extreme & Formula and Phanteks compatability chart has them. Just make sure your RAM isn't to tall.


Ah good good







and yeah my ram will be fine, it's just some Corsair LP stuff.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

@doyll...
Why not get this board..the one in above post..but the x58 version..or the msi big bang version..just have the heatsinks coloured orange...
I saw a board on ebay earlier..check there..think it was the ud7 of gigabyte..


----------



## coelacanth

I finished up my build.

The stock Phanteks 140mm fans were too tall for me to run my 200mm BitFenix fan on the door of my Cooler Master Storm Sniper.

I didn't realize that the Thermalright TY-147 fans are not square. They are 151mm wide, wider than the TC14PE. My sound card is right next to (touching) the TC14PE (put a small amount of electrical tape on the fan clip that's touching the back of the sound card so I won't have any shorts) so the Thermalright fans don't work. I was going to get rid of the 200mm BitFenix fan on my case door and replace it with 2 120mm Scythe Slip Stream slim fans until I discovered that I can't run the TY-147s because of my sound card anyway.

I ended up going with the Cougar Vortex 120mm PWM fans in a push push configuration and my temps on the 4770K (not overclocked at the moment) are phenomenal. With the Cougars I get to keep my 200mm BitFenix intake, which is good since my top GPU (in SLI) gets really hot.

I think that I will try to use one of the TY-147s to blow front to back over my GPUs.

I'll post some pics tomorrow.


----------



## doyll

Sorry to hear you had so many problems. It seems that once the problems catch up with us it's hard to get back out ahead of them again.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry to hear you had so many problems. It seems that once the problems catch up with us it's hard to get back out ahead of them again.


Not really problems. I just wanted to see what would work. It was a lot of fun actually.


----------



## doyll

I've several TY-14x fans have 4 flat sides. Still aren't square


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I've several TY-14x fans have 4 flat sides. Still aren't square
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What fans are those? I don't see them on the Thermalright website. Those are perfect for the PH-TC14PE.


----------



## doyll

I made them flat sided on the round sides and used a felt marker for the black frames.








Them be Doyll's custom TY-140 fans.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

nice d.. what did you do to the cooler in your profile pic????what the heck is that thing and those fans and clips and shrouds


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I made them flat sided on the round sides and used a felt marker for the black frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Them be Doyll's custom TY-140 fans.


I love the idea of making them black with a felt marker. Brilliant!

My phanteks fans might get a makeover.....


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> nice d.. what did you do to the cooler in your profile pic????what the heck is that thing and those fans and clips and shrouds


doyll has been branching out. Not sure how his PH-TC14PE feels about this...








http://www.overclock.net/t/1449176/cryorig-annouces-new-cooler-line/0_40


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i see.so basicly diff personel from asorted franchises..teaming up..to kick ass..
i agree in th at there should be 120mm twin tower coolers..


----------



## doyll

Not everything I own is Phanteks..








I don't have any Phanteks labeled clothing.








My other computer case is Fractal Design.








I have Thermalright & CRYORG coolers to.








Zaward, Noctua and Alpenfohn coolers too.








Don't have a car, I have a VW T4 camper.








But my other van is a VW Splitty.


----------



## sviking

Found this thread today while researching the Phanteks PH-TC14PE. I've read about 30 pages of posts regarding the crimped heat pipes on the black model. Has anyone recently purchased these on Newegg and received this particular "defect"? I imagine Newegg will keep these on sale until the affected lots have sold through. Thanks for all the info here, good stuff.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sviking*
> 
> Found this thread today while researching the Phanteks PH-TC14PE. I've read about 30 pages of posts regarding the crimped heat pipes on the black model. Has anyone recently purchased these on Newegg and received this particular "defect"? I imagine Newegg will keep these on sale until the affected lots have sold through. Thanks for all the info here, good stuff.


I keep an eye out at Amazon and Newegg. The most recent Newegg review (January 19, 2014) states that it had scratches and one of the towers was not aligned properly. The black one is still the cheapest too, so I think that the problems with the black one are still persisting. The review before that one (December 25, 2013) mentions that part of the CPU cooler fell off, there were bent fins and that it came with the wrong accessories.

I'd say it's still not safe to buy a black one, but if you do you can always send it back.

You could try calling Phanteks too. I managed to talk to someone on the phone.


----------



## sviking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I keep an eye out at Amazon and Newegg. The most recent Newegg review (January 19, 2014) states that it had scratches and one of the towers was not aligned properly. The black one is still the cheapest too, so I think that the problems with the black one are still persisting. The review before that one (December 25, 2013) mentions that part of the CPU cooler fell off, there were bent fins and that it came with the wrong accessories.
> 
> I'd say it's still not safe to buy a black one, but if you do you can always send it back.
> 
> You could try calling Phanteks too. I managed to talk to someone on the phone.


Thanks coel, after reading 5 months of activity on this thread, I feel your plight. Pretty disappointing I must say. I recently purchased a Define R4 case and this cooler looks perfect for it. However, the white version is unavailable and the black... well you know.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sviking*
> 
> Thanks coel, after reading 5 months of activity on this thread, I feel your plight. Pretty disappointing I must say. I recently purchased a Define R4 case and this cooler looks perfect for it. However, the white version is unavailable and the black... well you know.


Call Phanteks and ask when new black coolers will be available. If they don't know ask if they would let you know when black is again available.









Edit:
Define R4 is a very nice case. Been using my Define R2 for some time now. It's modded for 140mm fans. The stock 140mm fans a okay but I prefer stronger fans and PWM control on everything.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

So doyllan..camper..you like camping?
Sniping?
Hunting?
This almost sounds like crysis game to me...
So r yo a part of this new team whos making this cryorg stuff..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> So doyllan..camper..you like camping?
> Sniping?
> Hunting?
> This almost sounds like crysis game to me...
> So r yo a part of this new team whos making this cryorg stuff..











No, I am not part of CRYORIG team.. or any other manufacturing team. I've just been around computers, shows, etc. for so long that sometimes I hear what is happening in industry a little sooner than you.. and occasionally get to test products.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Hey dont get agro with me dude..im just curious thsts all..no need to get in my grill..so take a chill pill..if i could..i would be on a plane 24/7 @ every exibit possible..but i cant..
If i wasnt in a 3rd rated retarted country were skin colour has more sway than qaulifications..id be smarter than you and me combined..so.short story..get of my back..

And im sorry too others who this offends..not my intent..but im sick of this dude..you cant even say or ask him a simple thing without him getting all chillied up..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hey dont get agro with me dude..im just curious thsts all..no need to get in my grill..so take a chill pill..if i could..i would be on a plane 24/7 @ every exibit possible..but i cant..
> If i wasnt in a 3rd rated retarted country were skin colour has more sway than qaulifications..id be smarter than you and me combined..so.short story..get of my back..
> 
> 
> And im sorry too others who this offends..not my intent..but im sick of this dude..you cant even say or ask him a simple thing without him getting all chillied up..











Not on your back, just saying it's off topic. Seems you need the chill pill.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

so what if off topic smtimes..this is what makes ocn fun..helping..learning..and chit chat..cant be all business 24/7..im chilled..

just for moment thaught yo were at my gut again...


----------



## Signal-to-Noise

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pooter*
> 
> I recently picked up a Phanteks cooler, but wanted to swap the stock fans out. I've heard good things about it, but I wanted true PWM fans on there, not just 3pin fans hooked up to a 3to4pin adapter, and I'm a bit of a Noctua fanboy so I picked up the Noctua NF-A15 PWM to try out on the heatsink. See a lot of Thermalright TY fans swapped in but haven't heard much of Noctuas in the Phanteks so I figured why not.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Photos and descriptions
> 
> 
> 
> Using Noctua "Anti-Vibration mounts" provided with the fan and stock Phanteks fan clips, mounts perfectly just like stock:
> 
> 
> The fans are exactly the same height, the mount holes are exactly in the same place.
> 
> 
> I heard people do zipties or something similar to hold Thermalright TY fans to the Phantek heatsink, but the anti-vibration mounts that Noctua provides with the fans work perfectly with the stock phanteks clips. Instead of hooking into the hole of the stock hole mount, you basically hook onto the rubber Noctua mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I always wondered about those side blocky sections on the NF-A15 but I realize now that because they're the soft rubbery anti-vibration, they press up again the heatsink so they perform the same function as the adhesive anti-vibration strips that Phanteks provide.
> 
> 
> Not even sure if I need to stick the center anti-vibration strip since the Noctua fan's side anti-vibration mounts provide a slight clearance between the fan and heatsink in the center.
> 
> 
> Oh and in case you were wondering.. fits in center no problem too... again same size as stock Phanteks fan so didn't think it'd be an issue anyways.


I know this is an older post, but does anyone have temperature readings using these fans on the PH-TC14PE? I realize that the fans themselves are not the most important factor in a high-end HSF. But, I just wanted to make sure that there isn't some ridiculous rise in temperatures while using this fan. I'm using Noctua throughout the build and I'd love to strap a couple of these onto my cooler to keep the theme going. It'd be nice if this fan performed even better than the stock fans.

My white PH-TC14PE should arrive soon. It's on back-order at Amazon.


----------



## coelacanth

I forgot to upload some pics of my comp now that I've finished my build.

1) Parts arriving, always a great feeling. I ended up using the Cougar fans (120mm) on the PH-TC14PE due to size constraints.


2) Disassembling my old build.


3) New build with everything installed. There is an Asus Xonar Essence STX mashed between the CPU cooler and the top video card. I put electrical tape on the part of the fan bracket that was touching the back of the STX. The sound card has an EMI shield, and my video cards have back plates. This made for a very tight fit.


4) Completed build. I have since replaced the SLI bridge with a nice black one that isn't all bowed out.


5) The fans I am using on the PH-TC14PE are 120mm Cougar Vortex PWM fans. I have them connected to a Gelid PWM splitter (that has extra molex power) and they are both connected to the same PWM header on the motherboard.
http://www.cougar-world.com/us/products/fans/vortex_pwm.html
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553006
The fans say they run from 800 to 1,500 RPM but they are always spinning at about 600 RPM when I look in the UEFI BIOS. I tried to see if they are ramping up with HWMonitor but they don't appear in HWMonitor for some reason.


Temps idle in the high 20Cs (around 29C) and load in the high 50Cs (around 57C) with my CPU at stock frequency at the moment (i7-4770K).


----------



## doyll

Better watch it close with temps like those!
















Looks very nice!


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Better watch it close with temps like those!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks very nice!


A little update on temps. I noticed that the Asus UEFI BIOS runs the PWM fans very slowly. The Cougar Vortex 120 PWM fans are rated for 800-1500 RPM. At stock (Standard mode) in the BIOS the fans were running between 600-800RPM. I guess Asus prioritizes silence with their PWM. On Turbo the RPMs were anywhere from 800 - 970. I created my own custom fan curve that's a little more aggressive and the fans run anywhere from 850 - 1500 RPM.

Even at the quietest setting my load temps were around 60C. With the fans ramped up from 850 - 1500 RPM my load temps on the hottest core were about 58C with the coolest core around 52C (after prolonged BF4 session with my sound card and top GTX 780 Classified right next to the CPU cooler dumping hot air all over it).

I am super impressed with the cooling powers of the PH-TC14PE, especially with 2 fans with decent airflow.

I'm also very impressed with the Cougar Vortex PWM fans, they are really quiet even when close to full RPMs!

(I only wish I had the black PH-TC14PE though.)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Better watch it close with temps like those!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks very nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little update on temps. I noticed that the Asus UEFI BIOS runs the PWM fans very slowly. The Cougar Vortex 120 PWM fans are rated for 800-1500 RPM. At stock (Standard mode) in the BIOS the fans were running between 600-800RPM. I guess Asus prioritizes silence with their PWM. On Turbo the RPMs were anywhere from 800 - 970. I created my own custom fan curve that's a little more aggressive and the fans run anywhere from 850 - 1500 RPM.
> 
> Even at the quietest setting my load temps were around 60C. With the fans ramped up from 850 - 1500 RPM my load temps on the hottest core were about 58C with the coolest core around 52C (after prolonged BF4 session with my sound card and top GTX 780 Classified right next to the CPU cooler dumping hot air all over it).
> 
> I am super impressed with the cooling powers of the PH-TC14PE, especially with 2 fans with decent airflow.
> 
> I'm also very impressed with the Cougar Vortex PWM fans, they are really quiet even when close to full RPMs!
> 
> (I only wish I had the black PH-TC14PE though.)
Click to expand...

Good temps!








No worries with them even before you increased fan speed.








My experience is keeping the fans above 700rpm.. 7-800rpm improves motherboard temps when system is not working much. On my X58 systems the difference between 650rpm and 800rpm is 4-8c on mobo component temps









Indeed.
14PE is if not the very best one of a very few in the best group.


----------



## eBombzor

Hey guys are the stock fans on the 14PE quiet? Do they push a reasonably good amount of air?

I see some members here have replaced them with TY-140/7s or Cougar Vortex fans. How do these fans compare against the stock Phanteks fans?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Hey guys are the stock fans on the 14PE quiet? Do they push a reasonably good amount of air?
> 
> I see some members here have replaced them with TY-140/7s or Cougar Vortex fans. How do these fans compare against the stock Phanteks fans?


I replaced my fans with the Cougar Vortex 120mm PWM fans because of space constraints.

The PH-TC14PE used to come with PH-F140TS fans. You can tell this model because it has 3 spokes. It is rated for 1,200 RPMs and 78.1 CFM.
http://phanteks.com/PH-F140TS.html

The newest PH-TC14PEs come with PH-F140 Premium Fans. These fans have 4 spokes. They are rated at 1,300 RPM and 88.6 CFM.
http://phanteks.com/PH-TC14PE.html

The Phanteks fans are fine, but they are NOT PWM fans. The reason a lot of us replaced our stock fans with other fans is because we wanted to run true PWM fans.

The Thermalright fans are great, but they are not square. They are 140mm tall but they are 152mm wide. They are 1,300 RPM max and push 73.6 CFM.
http://www.thermalright.com/html/products/fan/ty-147.html?panel=1

I'm very happy with the Cougar Vortex 120mm PWM fans. They're very quiet even up to 1,500 RPMs. Vortex means they are "focused" fans though, so your motherboard might get slightly less air flow using these fans than with non-vortex or non-focused fans. But focused flow fans are supposed to be good for CPU coolers.
The Cougar Vortex fans (120mm) run from 800 (or less depending on your BIOS) to 1,500 RPMs and push 70.5 CFM.
http://www.cougar-world.com/us/products/fans/vortex_pwm.html

If space was not a constraint I was going to run the TY-147s, but they don't fit with my current setup.


----------



## eBombzor

Do you like the TY-147s the best out of all the fans?

I can't decide between the TY-147, Cougar Vortex, or the Phanteks PH-140HP (PWM version). BTW, this is all for case fans, not CPU coolers









Thanks for the help.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Dont wana be a bubble but..
I use less than perfect cm extra flo fans on my cooler at 37% 1300-+ rpm..hottest core get to 49-55
Rest are 45-49
they arent even good h20 fans but work perty good.
The vortex fans do good on cooler cause they have more focused airflo..i know of a trick yo can do to any fan to improve airflo..hehe pm me if inrerested


----------



## xCloudyHorizon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> The Phanteks fans are fine, but they are NOT PWM fans. The reason a lot of us replaced our stock fans with other fans is because we wanted to run true PWM fans.


So all the fans that come with the cpu cooler are non-PWM?


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xCloudyHorizon*
> 
> So all the fans that come with the cpu cooler are non-PWM?


The old ones use to but now they come with PH-F140HP which is PWM.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xCloudyHorizon*
> 
> So all the fans that come with the cpu cooler are non-PWM?


eBombzor is right I think. I think that the PH-140 Premium Fans that come with the current cooler are the PH-140HP PWM fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> The old ones use to but now they come with PH-F140HP which is PWM.


The website says that the cooler comes with "PH-140 Premium Fans." I wasn't aware that these are the PH-140HP fans, which are PWM.


----------



## doyll

As coelacanth said, website says "PH-F140 Premium Fan with PWM Adapter."

They are PH-F140HP fans. The first were not 3-pin fans and used the included PWM adapter. In recent months the PH-F140HP was changed to PWM, but website specs still say "Speed Settings by PWM Adapter."

Which version of PH-F140HP in included depends on when cooler was manufactured and shipped to dealer.

In other words it's a crap shoot as to which fan will be in the box with a new cooler.

The PH-F140HP PWM can be bought from some dealers, but I would want dealer to verify which PH-F140HP they actually have.


----------



## Signal-to-Noise

I have a PH-TC14PE back-ordered from Amazon. I sure hope that means they'll be sending me one with the new PWM fans.

But, I'm also tempted to try some of Noctua's newer NF-A14 PWM fans on it. Decisions, decisions.


----------



## doyll

The stock Phanteks fans are fine. Regardless of if they are the PWM one or not.


----------



## Signal-to-Noise

That is what I have read. I'm not worried about it at all. I just love the Noctua colors so much and I like the idea of having only one brand of fan in the machine.

It's fun to think about, but I will most likely not waste money on replacing perfectly functional fans.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> As coelacanth said, website says "PH-F140 Premium Fan with PWM Adapter."
> 
> They are PH-F140HP fans. The first were not 3-pin fans and used the included PWM adapter. In recent months the PH-F140HP was changed to PWM, but website specs still say "Speed Settings by PWM Adapter."
> 
> *Which version of PH-F140HP in included depends on when cooler was manufactured and shipped to dealer.
> 
> In other words it's a crap shoot as to which fan will be in the box with a new cooler.
> *
> The PH-F140HP PWM can be bought from some dealers, but I would want dealer to verify which PH-F140HP they actually have.


Yes that's the best way to put it. You won't know what fans you have until you open the box.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Signal-to-Noise*
> 
> I have a PH-TC14PE back-ordered from Amazon. I sure hope that means they'll be sending me one with the new PWM fans.
> 
> But, I'm also tempted to try some of Noctua's newer NF-A14 PWM fans on it. Decisions, decisions.


Which color did you order? I totally understand your wanting to keep all the fans uniform.


----------



## Signal-to-Noise

I ordered it in white. I think if any of them would compliment Noctua fans, it'd be the white.

My only gripe with the white version is that Phanteks decided to color all the fins white, but instead of also doing the top cover in color like they did with all the others, they left it silver. What's up with that?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Signal to niose..
Why not remove the top..its four easy clips that literaly just pop off their nothes from touching it..mod white snall led strip in there and put top back on..hehehe


----------



## Signal-to-Noise

I didn't know that. Thanks!

Are there any photos of a white one (or any color, really) with the top popped off?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i havnt seen any...but i know it looks similar to other coolers with pipes sticking out..difference is that the paint job on top fins sometimes dont cover the entire fins..not always..i accidently knockd my hsnd against top of the cooler when i got it outa box..the one towers top plate just popd off..the powder coat finish lookd like raw metal underneath..


----------



## Signal-to-Noise

Are the top covers just cosmetic, or do they actually have any cooling value? If they're mostly cosmetic, then painting them would also be an option.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

well im not 100% sure..but judging from other coolers..its cosmetic..probably acts like protection for the pipes..
if you do paint..make sure to have them anodized properly or powder coated
dont just go and spray paint them with can spray or home setup..
do a test first of before after..with top plates and without top plates..atleast then youl know if they do any cooling..
use real temp/core temp/hw monitor to record temps..post here so we can all see..


----------



## Signal-to-Noise

Sure, I'll post all of the temperature information from any experiments that I end up doing. Once I get it, that is. Currently, it's back-ordered with no ship date in sight.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Signal-to-Noise*
> 
> Sure, I'll post all of the temperature information from any experiments that I end up doing. Once I get it, that is. Currently, it's back-ordered with no ship date in sight.


Any reason you're waiting for Amazon? Directron has white in stock for $79.99 free shipping.
http://www.directron.com/phtc14pe.html


----------



## Signal-to-Noise

There is a reason, but not a very good one. I used a gift card for the order.

Excellent tip. Rep'd.


----------



## doyll

I see no reason you can't hand paint or use a spray can to paint the top of cooler. The top does not get hot or radiate heat. Just prep it properly so paint will stick.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Probably not.but why risk it...


----------



## Minusorange

Hi guys perhaps you can offer advice, just got done building my new rig and had a nightmare trying to install the Phanteks, the brackets were in the right holes corresponding to the holes on the back plate but the mounting panel just wouldn't line up, spent over an hour trying to get it to screw it in but it wouldn't work. So I ended up switching one of the brackets to hole numbers 1 & 2 and it finally worked, I'm in Bios now and it's stating temperature as 30degrees idle for non OC'd 4770k which I think might be a little high as system temp is reading 22 degree (unless the Gigabyte UEFI has the 2 the wrong way round which would make more sense)

Anyway I'm wondering if you guys think I should reseat the heatsink, it's not something I particularly wish do due to my previous attempt and I'll have to strip everything off the mobo but I have plenty paste left if needs must


----------



## DF is BUSY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minusorange*
> 
> Hi guys perhaps you can offer advice, just got done building my new rig and had a nightmare trying to install the Phanteks, the brackets were in the right holes corresponding to the holes on the back plate but the mounting panel just wouldn't line up, spent over an hour trying to get it to screw it in but it wouldn't work. So I ended up switching one of the brackets to hole numbers 1 & 2 and it finally worked, I'm in Bios now and it's stating temperature as 30degrees idle for non OC'd 4770k which I think might be a little high as system temp is reading 22 degree (unless the Gigabyte UEFI has the 2 the wrong way round which would make more sense)
> 
> Anyway I'm wondering if you guys think I should reseat the heatsink, it's not something I particularly wish do due to my previous attempt and I'll have to strip everything off the mobo but I have plenty paste left if needs must


idle temps mean nothing. what are your load temps like?


----------



## Minusorange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DF is BUSY*
> 
> idle temps mean nothing. what are your load temps like?


No idea I'm just sat in the UEFI as I haven't gotten round to installing windows yet and I'm tired as this build has taken it out of me so probably going to do it all tomorrow after a nice sleep


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minusorange*
> 
> Hi guys perhaps you can offer advice, just got done building my new rig and had a nightmare trying to install the Phanteks, the brackets were in the right holes corresponding to the holes on the back plate but the mounting panel just wouldn't line up, spent over an hour trying to get it to screw it in but it wouldn't work. So I ended up switching one of the brackets to hole numbers 1 & 2 and it finally worked, I'm in Bios now and it's stating temperature as 30degrees idle for non OC'd 4770k which I think might be a little high as system temp is reading 22 degree (unless the Gigabyte UEFI has the 2 the wrong way round which would make more sense)
> 
> Anyway I'm wondering if you guys think I should reseat the heatsink, it's not something I particularly wish do due to my previous attempt and I'll have to strip everything off the mobo but I have plenty paste left if needs must


It also depends on which C-States you have enables, which power plan you're using, if you have EIST enabled. All of those thing will affect your idle frequency and voltage, and therefore your idle temps. Your ambient temps are going to play a big role as well.

All things being equal 30C idle on a 4770K is not too bad. With my motherboard BIOS at stock with my 4770K my idle was around 30C too before I enabled more power saving features.

Post back with your load temps and your PH-TC14PE setup (e.g. push push etc.)

One more thing, if you're going to use synthetic benchmarks that use AVX instructions (like Prime95) to see your load temps, DO NOT enable Adaptive voltage in your BIOS. Your CPU will instantly get super hot.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

30° at idle is very good for any chip..like c.canth said.ambient temps will be #1 factor..its essentialy whats drawn into the case ..2ensure you have adeqaute airflo inside your setup..front intake to back exhaust..bottom intake towards top..sidepanels intake for gpus etc..
3 make sure absolutely no cable mess..if you take a day..take the time itll make things easier in the long run for upgrades...unlesd smthing has to get rmad..
Also like previous poster said..
Ensure your eist/turbo/c.state/ect..al power savings are on..and for atleast a couple days/weeks..leave all other vokts and stuff on auto/defualt..yo dont wana oc from day 1.let the setup break in first..glad to see w new member here and guys wmd gals still buyin this cooler


----------



## Minusorange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> It also depends on which C-States you have enables, which power plan you're using, if you have EIST enabled. All of those thing will affect your idle frequency and voltage, and therefore your idle temps. Your ambient temps are going to play a big role as well.
> 
> All things being equal 30C idle on a 4770K is not too bad. With my motherboard BIOS at stock with my 4770K my idle was around 30C too before I enabled more power saving features.
> 
> Post back with your load temps and your PH-TC14PE setup (e.g. push push etc.)
> 
> One more thing, if you're going to use synthetic benchmarks that use AVX instructions (like Prime95) to see your load temps, DO NOT enable Adaptive voltage in your BIOS. Your CPU will instantly get super hot.


Okay well after finally getting everything installed I gave BF4 a run, setting were 1920x1080 on ultra and with everything at stock the max temps in HWinfo were 50 degrees VID was 1.16 volts

Phanteks set up is as shown  (The whole push/pull, push/push terminology has me confused)

Going to run some stress tests later as well so will report back with temps to get opinions on whether to reseat or not but it looks good so far right ?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

wow..the white case looks amazing..is a cm stryker?
bitfenix fans?
those temps are great for stock...when ocin..be sure to keep volts as low as possable


----------



## Minusorange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> wow..the white case looks amazing..is a cm stryker?
> bitfenix fans?
> those temps are great for stock...when ocin..be sure to keep volts as low as possable


Yep Stryker it is! Beautiful design and pictures don't really do it justice, the fans are just the stock cooler master ones which come with the case but I was planning on swapping them out for some Gentle Typhoons for better airflow, did look at the white bitfenix fans but their airflow wasn't as good despite looking awesome (might paint the GT's white anyway). Got a build log here if you're interested


----------



## X-PREDATOR

cool..i zoomd in and the logo looked like bitfenix..my bad..
if you want direct airflo to the cpu..you could add w fan in the 5.25 bays so it pushes air directly to the cpu cooler..it helps alot..


----------



## Minusorange

Just for an update running at 4.5Ghz now with 1.26 Vcore and hitting 65 degrees in Intel Burn Test, I'm assuming it's a good temp and my fears of reseating the thing are gone ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minusorange*
> 
> Just for an update running at 4.5Ghz now with 1.26 Vcore and hitting 65 degrees in Intel Burn Test, I'm assuming it's a good temp and my fears of reseating the thing are gone ?


Temp is fine. What is your ambient temp and cooler intake air temp?


----------



## Minusorange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Temp is fine. What is your ambient temp and cooler intake air temp?


No idea what my room ambient is but I've got the heating on and it's moderately warm guessing around 19 or 20 degrees, the sensors for my Recon in the case are saying 32 degrees resting on top of the heatsink plate, 30 degrees on the RAM and 25 degrees on the SSD enclosure inside the case but I don't know how accurate they are


----------



## doyll

Could you use one of your Recon probes to monitor the temp in front of the cooler intake fan? Second link in my sig show what I use. Would a stiff insulated wire work on Recon probe?


----------



## Minusorange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Could you use one of your Recon probes to monitor the temp in front of the cooler intake fan? Second link in my sig show what I use. Would a stiff insulated wire work on Recon probe?


Ok I've switched them around now

1 - attached to SSD mounting bracket to measure case temps = 23 degrees
2 - attached to RAM = 30 degrees
3 - sitting on top of CPU = 29 degrees
4 - In the HDD enclosure next to the intake fans = 24 degrees
5 - attached the GPU near the exhaust = 25 degrees

That's while running intel burn test with 63 degrees on the CPU

I really don't think the Recon sensors are all that accurate when general case temp is reading lower than infront of the intake but I've set low thresholds for max rpm so it doesn't take much heat to ramp the fans up, 35 degrees on RAM and the fans go on full power


----------



## X-PREDATOR

have you got something like coretemp? hwmonitor to see in windows what temps youre getting...


----------



## Minusorange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> have you got something like coretemp? hwmonitor to see in windows what temps youre getting...


Yeah all the hardware readings are from HWInfo64


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minusorange*
> 
> Just for an update running at 4.5Ghz now with 1.26 Vcore and hitting 65 degrees in Intel Burn Test, I'm assuming it's a good temp and my fears of reseating the thing are gone ?


Very nice setup! Nice overclock and great temps too. No need to reseat. I'm going to OC my 4770K soon and would be happy if I can hit 4.5 at 1.26 Vcore too.

doyll, welcome back!


----------



## doyll

Was I gone?


----------



## Minusorange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Very nice setup! Nice overclock and great temps too. No need to reseat. I'm going to OC my 4770K soon and would be happy if I can hit 4.5 at 1.26 Vcore too.
> 
> doyll, welcome back!


Sorry it wasn't Intel Burn Test I was hitting 60 degrees, it was XTU I was hitting 60, same with Aida64. For Prime for the time it runs before BSOD I'm hitting 80 degrees


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Was I gone?


Over in the Cryorig R1 thread I thought you said your computer went kaput. I hadn't seen you for a while.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minusorange*
> 
> Sorry it wasn't Intel Burn Test I was hitting 60 degrees, it was XTU I was hitting 60, same with Aida64. For Prime for the time it runs before BSOD I'm hitting 80 degrees


I wouldn't worry about Prime too much, though I'm not one of those "it must pass 24 hours of Prime or it's not stable" people when it comes to Haswell. 80C with Prime still isn't bad. What voltage mode are you using for VID?


----------



## doyll

Over in the Cryorig R1 thread I thought you said your computer went kaput. I hadn't seen you for a while.[/quote]
Indeed
But only my test rig. My sig rig and notebook are still working.. and have 2 or 3 others I could use in emergencies.. old Win 98 notebook.









Replacement board is on the way.. same as I had so shouldn't affect test result comparisons. Will run some with same coolers to be sure.


----------



## Minusorange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I wouldn't worry about Prime too much, though I'm not one of those "it must pass 24 hours of Prime or it's not stable" people when it comes to Haswell. 80C with Prime still isn't bad. What voltage mode are you using for VID?


I've set everything at stock apart from the vcore and multiplier for the time being so there's as few variables as possible, vcore in HWinfo is showing 1.26 core vid is showing 1.248 for 2 cores and 1.252 for the other 2 average temps are 62 degrees running Aida for the last 4 hours


----------



## X-PREDATOR

hwinfo is good but not always a true reading..youve got the recon controller?
take one temp probe and put it directly on the cpu socket or wedge it in between cooler base on top off the cpu..remove all other probes and fan wires from there spots..then look what temps youre getting and use coretemp to compare or real temp these two are most accurate at cpu temps..i used hwinfo recently and it told me that a 2.4ghz c2q cpu is running at 5ghz whilst gaming under bf3..so its not so good in my opinion..ive compared hwmonitor to my bios and other temp
software..its always been true to what coretemp sais and bios..even tom logan from oc3dtv uses hwmonitor mostly..


----------



## X-PREDATOR

agreed with other post..prime 95 has become like a fashion statememt for testing..it puts more load (damage) on a cpu than any tealworld app..apart from encoding software..they realy love cpu power..take dvdfab as example..itll literaly use all cores and threads available and 90% of the time stress the bajesus from a cpu..(pesonal experience)


----------



## cyan

I'm currently using noctua C14 (cheap from friend) for 4770K. (1.22v @4,3ghz)
IBT = 86-90C . I wonder if I replace the hsf with Phanteks PH-TC14PE will lower the temperature a lot ?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

youll be in the same ballpark..but youll be able to clock higher to 4.5 -4.7 at same temps..ambient temps play a big part..a part from psu issues i have..i normaly dont run the pc in summer times..example ..today is over 40° c inside and outside..no ac in this world helps cool the house down..
whats your gaming temps like at the moment?


----------



## cyan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> youll be in the same ballpark..but youll be able to clock higher to 4.5 -4.7 at same temps..ambient temps play a big part..a part from psu issues i have..i normaly dont run the pc in summer times..example ..today is over 40° c inside and outside..no ac in this world helps cool the house down..
> whats your gaming temps like at the moment?


wow 40C ? At 35C I already sweating like crazy.
Anyway current ambient = 28-29C and BF3 = 65C top.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyan*
> 
> I'm currently using noctua C14 (cheap from friend) for 4770K. (1.22v @4,3ghz)
> IBT = 86-90C . I wonder if I replace the hsf with Phanteks PH-TC14PE will lower the temperature a lot ?


Guess it depends on what your definition of what "a lot" is. 51c for PH-TC14PE to NH-C14 at 60.25c is "significant."








Add the fact that C14 is pancake cooler blowing it's heated exhaust everywhere and heating up all the other case air... when a tower cooler blows it's exhaust one direction.. usually toward a rear vent exhaust fan so case is cooler..
And every degree cooler the air going into cool is means the CPU is the same degree cooler.








http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/phanteks_ph_tc14cs_cpu_cooler_review,14.html

Above testing was with the old PH-F140TC fans. New PH-F140HP PWM are run cooler. Some of us have changed to TY-143 or TY--147 (74cfm 1300rpm) fans and got another couple of degrees.. TY-143 (130cfm 2500rpm) are good for about 5c but need a similar exhaust fan to pull their heated cooler exhaust out of case.

You might find my sig links helpful.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

the master D..speaks true..before my psu started goin south..i was showing temps of 40 - 45 in bios..in windows it shows in hwmonitor and core temp s 35-40 & cores run between 35-45 @idle..my room is super hot day and night..i run the system only late nights..well used too..still waitin on new psu..my load temps on cpu go close to 60° ..doesnt matter what game..it gets hot..its twice as hot and humid than last summer..cant wait for june july months to come..cool winter times
so listen to d..this is a great cooler..but if youre after newer kid on the block..wait till the cryorg coolers come maybe..from the looks..its goin to be same or better..what do you think doyllan..


----------



## Hawkeye360

I really like my Phanteks cooler, however I think the stock fans are a bit too loud so I think I will get some Noctua fans. Noctua fans should work on it just fine right?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawkeye360*
> 
> I really like my Phanteks cooler, however I think the stock fans are a bit too loud so I think I will get some Noctua fans. Noctua fans should work on it just fine right?


Yes they will. But you should be able to adjust your fan speed so it is not to loud for you. What are your temps and fan rpm now?


----------



## Hawkeye360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yes they will. But you should be able to adjust your fan speed so it is not to loud for you. What are your temps and fan rpm now?


Thanks for the reply! However I just found out that I won't be able to use my Phanteks in my new case which is a Fractal R4 apparently. Fractal says the R4 will fit a CPU cooler with a maximum height of 170mm and the Phanteks is 171mm with dual fans installed. Looks like I need a new cooler.

As far as temps and fan RPMs, my CPU was around 60-70 degrees Celsius under full load and the fans were around 1000-1300 RPMs. I haven't used it for a while so I can't remember the exact numbers.


----------



## doyll

PH-TC14PE fit in Define R4 no problem. I have one in an old Define R2 which as a CPU clearance spec of 165mm


----------



## JRuxGaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawkeye360*
> 
> Thanks for the reply! However I just found out that I won't be able to use my Phanteks in my new case which is a Fractal R4 apparently. Fractal says the R4 will fit a CPU cooler with a maximum height of 170mm and the Phanteks is 171mm with dual fans installed. Looks like I need a new cooler.
> 
> As far as temps and fan RPMs, my CPU was around 60-70 degrees Celsius under full load and the fans were around 1000-1300 RPMs. I haven't used it for a while so I can't remember the exact numbers.


I have one in my I have the Fractal Design Define R4 actually. My TC14PE fits beautifully. <3 Look at the sig rig. Outdated picture, as I have a new Graphics card, but the cooler is in there.


----------



## DF is BUSY

are there any users who installed a 3rd fan on the tc14pe? is there clearance for the chassis rear fan? it would be hugging right behind it I assume? or does that depend on the computer case itself?


----------



## Minusorange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DF is BUSY*
> 
> are there any users who installed a 3rd fan on the tc14pe? is there clearance for the chassis rear fan? it would be hugging right behind it I assume? or does that depend on the computer case itself?


Depends on the case, in the Stryker there's plenty room for a third fan


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i havnt yet..but will be soon..
it yields at most 1°c drop to 3..
if your cases back exhaust is already close to the cooler and has a strong enough pull..in airflo..dont bother..it may look cool..but doesnt realy help in a big way...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DF is BUSY*
> 
> are there any users who installed a 3rd fan on the tc14pe? is there clearance for the chassis rear fan? it would be hugging right behind it I assume? or does that depend on the computer case itself?


In most cases the distance from motherboard I/O panel is flush with back of case. This means the distance from back of case to back of cooler is the same in all cases using the same motherboard. But the distance from I/O panel to CPU is not the same on all motherboards.

Hope that makes sense.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

in short...try it..let us all here know..since iv bn here ive only seen a couple go the 3fan route...the case rear exhuast fan already acts as a third fan..


----------



## doyll

Rear exhaust fan pulls air out of the space between cooler and vent, not out of cooler.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

yo know..we r sayin exact same thing..just different words..a bit of reverse sphycoligy...hehehe..


----------



## doyll

No, we are not saying the same thing.

Fan attached to cooler only pulls air from cooler.

Fan attached to back vent pulls air from case, not from the cooler. The space between rear vent fan and cooler is 30-40mm in most cases.. which is more space/clearance than case intake fans have on bottom and many front intakes behind front panels.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

...ur rite..but so am i..
the rear fan not only pulls out case air..it pulls the air from the cooler too..

if i put my hand between my rear fan..back of cooler i can literaly feel the air being sucked/pulled out..same with my top 200mm cm mega ...so...it serves a dual purpose..im not gettin into a debate with you again..were here to help others..not just serve ourselfs..but it seems your losing your grip on reality D...you might be smart..but stop thinking others arent...ok..
im here to e.joy.to help..get help..not get bashed..hammered by you each time..i already left the cryorg thread..seems yo want me gone for good..

well if this goes on..i might just..plenty other forums on the net..were helps given and accepted..without this moronic bickering from smart ass jokers...

yes..three fans are cool..but unneeded..the rear fan in the case already acts a dual purpose..so just put a fan there thats got enough oomph to pull air out the case and cooler...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> ...ur rite..but so am i..
> the rear fan not only pulls out case air..it pulls the air from the cooler too..
> 
> if i put my hand between my rear fan..back of cooler i can literaly feel the air being sucked/pulled out..same with my top 200mm cm mega ...so...it serves a dual purpose..im not gettin into a debate with you again..were here to help others..not just serve ourselfs..but it seems your losing your grip on reality D...you might be smart..but stop thinking others arent...ok..
> im here to e.joy.to help..get help..not get bashed..hammered by you each time..i already left the cryorg thread..seems yo want me gone for good..
> 
> well if this goes on..i might just..plenty other forums on the net..were helps given and accepted..without this moronic bickering from smart ass jokers...
> 
> yes..three fans are cool..but unneeded..the rear fan in the case already acts a dual purpose..so just put a fan there thats got enough oomph to pull air out the case and cooler...


No you are not right . You are making assumptions not backed by scientific fact.

Rear fan is not "pulling/sucking" air out of cooler. Unplug rear exhaust and you will still feel air blowing out of cooler because that's where the two fans on cooler are pushing their air.

I know you are not dumb and are trying to be helpful. But you often arrive at the wrong conclusion..
Giving people information that is not correct is worse than saying nothing.

You can help others more by getting your facts right, using proper spelling instead of things like _e joy, U, gettin, ...ur rite., iv bn,_ etc.. and when someone points it out your mistakes and explains why it is wrong you start whining about it and call them names instead of trying to understand.

I make mistakes too. We all do.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

dude ive done what yo say..million times..
the moment the rear fan stops..air flow from cpu cooler is felt..but less..
than when rear fan is on...
so my point isnt totaly wrong...so what if my spelling sucks...so what..
you can say what yo want..but..fact remains:
turn off all fans albeit the cpu cooler and rear fan..youll see why i say its doing double duty..my case rear fan has 20-60mm gap/space open to the heatsink..as soon as i stop rear fan..airflo decreases..but opposite happens when fans running

&

sorry for outburst...


----------



## doyll

Unless the exhaust fan has a duct from it to cooler it is not drawing air from cooler. It is only drawing air out of case from around cooler. The cooler fans are moving air through the cooler much faster than the air around the cooler is moving. Obviously the closer the exhaust fan is the more it has a chance to pull air from cooler. But without fitting the fan tight against the cooler it has very little effect on cooler.. and even then the results is about 1c different.

As an example of how much difference it makes, on custom water cooling having a gasket between fan and radiator is known to sometimes give better cooling than just mounting fan to radiator.

Trying to judge airflow by how it feels on your hand doesn't really work.

Apology accepted.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

yeah the fan shroud thing does work..i did it when i had h60 on the cpu...dropped my temps by 5 degrees almost


----------



## X-PREDATOR

dum ?..how will this coolers fans perform if used with another type of fan...
i want to try put the ph fan in the middle and keep my cm extraflo on the front..how do you guys think itll do..


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> dum ?..how will this coolers fans perform if used with another type of fan...
> i want to try put the ph fan in the middle and keep my cm extraflo on the front..how do you guys think itll do..


Only one way to find out!









It will probably be fine. I can't imagine there will be too much difference. I replaced both stock fans with Cougar 120mm PWMs.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

ill see later..goin to do some cleaning out..see if this new hx750 cables can be used or not..way to short.
i run cpu fans from y splitter..gelid 4pin pwm signal.hopefully the ph fans play nice..ive tried putting them on a volt reducer and they still try battle and run full throttle

eish..wouldnt mind a set of cougars though..


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i know this has been asked and answer countless times..but still...
i wna refresh my memory..
how safe is it/not
to run 3 fans in tandem from one cpu fan header..
i want to keep the red led cm Xtraflo on the front of cooler for push.then use the two ph fans in the middle..back..as pull/push -pull..
i have an idea how to run it..
currently got e gelid y 4pwm adaptor..just plug in frontfan on the actual 4pin then split the other signal end to two fans..would this be ok or would the fact that the front fan is a different kind have a negative impact?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> i know this has been asked and answer countless times..but still...
> i wna refresh my memory..
> how safe is it/not
> to run 3 fans in tandem from one cpu fan header..
> i want to keep the red led cm Xtraflo on the front of cooler for push.then use the two ph fans in the middle..back..as pull/push -pull..
> i have an idea how to run it..
> currently got e gelid y 4pwm adaptor..just plug in frontfan on the actual 4pin then split the other signal end to two fans..would this be ok or would the fact that the front fan is a different kind have a negative impact?


I ran different fans off of the PWM splitter. That should work fine. What are the RPMs of the different fan types? I was running fans that had similar RPM ranges.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

well the one cm xtraflo i want to keep on front @37-50% i use in bios it runs from 1200 - 1600rpm
the two ph fans that came with the cooler run at full tilt i think 900-1300rpm
so at 50% they will be around half that ..
so the front fan will be a strong push and middle and rear slow pull push..
will this work or be negative


----------



## X-PREDATOR




----------



## X-PREDATOR

Borrowd a psu from a friend.
And presto..three fans running on this beasty
one 120mm on front @37% 1400rpm
middle/rear ph fans with rpm sensor on ch2 fan header then to the fancontroller..keeping both @ 850rpm
idle temps are @ 26-30 per core and cpu temps at 30 -34.
I removed the cooler for a springclean..reapplied tim..small line/dot on center with 4 very very*10000 tiny dots at corners around the center so almost x pattern..i did notice something im not happy with when i removed it..one of the lock nuts that hold the mounting arms on the mobo..was a bit loose..like almost it lost its grip..i tightend it down..all good..remounted..
Hooked up all cables..wiring..
Loos amazing


----------



## X-PREDATOR




----------



## X-PREDATOR

plus still got about 30mm clearence to sidepanel


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> plus still got about 30mm clearence to sidepanel


Nice work. That is some serious air cooling!


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i tried a 10min round of COJ gunslinger..for some reason..this game is like bf3..its ram/cpu/gpu intense..
max cpu load temps 49..this is a 5°c drop over previous temps..how safe is it to blow the dust out this badboy with a compressor?
i tried best i could to brush out the centers of the towers but yeah..not easy spot to get in..
still im very happy with results..just gotta get a stronger exhaust fan now..the one ive got in now doesnt pull quick enough...to slow..as soon as i ramp up the speed to above 950.it clearly makes a very loud turbilence noise...


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> i tried a 10min round of COJ gunslinger..for some reason..this game is like bf3..its ram/cpu/gpu intense..
> max cpu load temps 49..this is a 5°c drop over previous temps..how safe is it to blow the dust out this badboy with a compressor?
> i tried best i could to brush out the centers of the towers but yeah..not easy spot to get in..
> still im very happy with results..just gotta get a stronger exhaust fan now..the one ive got in now doesnt pull quick enough...to slow..as soon as i ramp up the speed to above 950.it clearly makes a very loud turbilence noise...


I've shot my CPU tower with my datavac a few times now. What kind of compressor? Are you talking about super fast wind speeds? Like industrial air compressor? Or just normal compressed air?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

1kw compressor..i currently use the vacuum cleaner..its got a nice way to blow fresh air..no bags..no dust..just sucks in air the out the pipe..works ok..but i want to blast the center of the two towers


----------



## X-PREDATOR

ok so im getting better/+-same temps as before..every game ive played except farcry3 gives me low temps..but FC3 still goes over 50°C..granted it is a hottish day today ambients are around the 30's.
so what gives..im starting to think that theres something evil at play here with me...or are some games just so cpu hungry..

@doyll..hows those cryorgs coming along..ive googled..but no info..it brings up security systems if i google for these coolers..
i wonder how some of the be quiet fans (same as on the dark rock pro2/3) would do on this phanteks..granted overall my temps are lower..but the three fan thing..its has to be either exact same fans..or atleast close in specs i would say..

i remember a guy who put 3 sp120's on his with bolts..but cant find it..i think im gonna aquire a set and see how three of them do...along with a proper pwm fan hub.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

blank post?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> @doyll..hows those cryorgs coming along..ive googled..but no info..it brings up security systems if i google for these coolers...


There's a thread here for Cryorig.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> blank post?


Alot like some of your but without text.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

blank?
yeah yeah..as always..im dum..and your rum..

i was in the cryorg thread but left..unsubd..
im losing faith in these big air coolers..how can it give me amazing results the one day and next not perform at all..
inconsistant perf is a big no no


----------



## doyll

Seems the common denominator in your "inconsistent" cooing issues is you. Nobody else seems to have problems with their cooler performance being "inconsistent"


----------



## X-PREDATOR

well i cant help it..

im not the one who manufacters cpus..uses crap soldering or tim underneath the ihs of cpus..
im just after that something special..i still love my cooler..still works great..just want to know if any1 has experienced what i have with this cooler..whats wrong with that...
but as always..your the dominent one on OCN..everywhere just as i think i find a thread were i can be of help..your name pops up...i know youve got your gripes with me..but seriously..get over it dude..lifes to short to be like you...so serious all
the time...we r all here to have fun too you know..not just to gain status..but it seems that is your kryptonite..fame..your a fame seeker..and the moment sm1 ticks you off or step on your territory..you do this..and for some reason ..it still gets under my skin..

iv said it before ..im saying it again..
if i was your neighbour i wouldve kicked your ass long time ago..i might not be as smart as you D..but i am proud of what i know..cause i have worked hard to get were i am..ddnt have support from rich daddys or mummies...
so either get of my back or get over it


----------



## doyll

Wow! You need a couple of things:
Be happy!
Chill out.
Have a pint on me. Or lemonade, whatever.
Life is too short.

Although I heard a rummer that manufacturers each have a container labeled "Destination: South Africa." And they put all their iffy bits and pieces in it. When it's full... well... that's where it is shipped to.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

well phanteks support have been nothing but BS for me lately..no response from the support site and the rep i talked to here isnt very reluctant...
the shop whom sold these bad boys doesnt any longer as i have mentioned before to you..my idle temps are ok..it my load tempsim getting concerned with...current room ambient are between 20-35..
load temps on the hottest core are always whats the deciding factor for this cpu..its always 5 - 10 Deg C hotter..i want my temps to be in the mid 40's all the time..maybe i should just go over to full liquid loop and see what that can bring or the h220/cm glacier...
those threads seem to be atleast more fun these days


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> well phanteks support have been nothing but BS for me lately..no response from the support site and the rep i talked to here isnt very reluctant...
> the shop whom sold these bad boys doesnt any longer as i have mentioned before to you..my idle temps are ok..it my load tempsim getting concerned with...current room ambient are between 20-35..
> load temps on the hottest core are always whats the deciding factor for this cpu..its always 5 - 10 Deg C hotter..i want my temps to be in the mid 40's all the time..maybe i should just go over to full liquid loop and see what that can bring or the h220/cm glacier...
> those threads seem to be atleast more fun these days


Load temps in the 40s seems unattainable. When I stress my CPU with x264 (I'm running 1.280v VID, 1.312v Vcore) my temps are in the 70s. Even when gaming my temps are well over 60C.

My hottest core runs 10C or 11C hotter than the coolest core. I'm pretty sure it's the CPU since I reseated the cooler 3 times now. Big variations like that are common for Intel chips.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i know and thanx coolacanth..i am just very concerned that my chip is getting hotter maybe..i just reseated last week..got the three fans on there..120mm in front @37%
in that pic the Fan2 is actualy the two phanteks fans hooked up to the mobo via rpm minotor cable and my fancontroller so i can control those manualy..my board doesnt support pwm in bios for system fans and i already tried msi control center..didnt like it at all..nice software but it reports my temps almost 10 degress lower than what they actualy are..i tried core temp too and aits in line with what hwmonitor says..

well not going to reseat again..not till i get my new fans and stuff.going to try get some liquid pro tim and see how that is...
can any one please help in explaining how to properly use prime 95..as it seems thats the only way im goin to see whats what with this chip..its do or die time:thumb:


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> i know and thanx coolacanth..i am just very concerned that my chip is getting hotter maybe..i just reseated last week..got the three fans on there..120mm in front @37%
> in that pic the Fan2 is actualy the two phanteks fans hooked up to the mobo via rpm minotor cable and my fancontroller so i can control those manualy..my board doesnt support pwm in bios for system fans and i already tried msi control center..didnt like it at all..nice software but it reports my temps almost 10 degress lower than what they actualy are..i tried core temp too and aits in line with what hwmonitor says..
> 
> well not going to reseat again..not till i get my new fans and stuff.going to try get some liquid pro tim and see how that is...
> can any one please help in explaining how to properly use prime 95..as it seems thats the only way im goin to see whats what with this chip..its do or die time:thumb:


Be careful with Liquid Pro. I've read that once you put it on you can't get it off without lapping your CPU and CPU cooler. I heard that Liquid Ultra is easier to work with. If you're just going to use the TIM on the CPU and CPU cooler I'd personally recommend just a high-quality TIM, rather than Liquid Pro or Liquid Ultra. If you have an Intel CPU with TIM instead of solder, the Liquid products seem to work great. Just using them as normal TIM doesn't seem to yield amazing results, just a few C.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

well i was going to get NTh1 from noctua..but 700bucks for one tube of tim..no freaking way in hell..and all the stores in my darn country refuse to help me obtain any decent tim.
i still love my AS5..but i know there are better ones out there.and the only place that can get the liquid ultra refuses too get it..they only stock the pro stuff..go figures..living in a country were the individual gets frownd apun sucks donkey....ok so im ditching the liquid pro idea..
i Want to get some IC Daimond/GC Xtreme/ Sin Etsu.ive tried mx4 before and it perform worse than AS5..temps were 5 degrees higher than now..so no way thats coming near me again.

well im getting some stuff from a friend..pumps..rads..etc..goin to c hw it does and compare to this cooler...

any advise for running prime95?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> well i was going to get NTh1 from noctua..but 700bucks for one tube of tim..no freaking way in hell..and all the stores in my darn country refuse to help me obtain any decent tim.
> i still love my AS5..but i know there are better ones out there.and the only place that can get the liquid ultra refuses too get it..they only stock the pro stuff..go figures..living in a country were the individual gets frownd apun sucks donkey....ok so im ditching the liquid pro idea..
> i Want to get some IC Daimond/GC Xtreme/ Sin Etsu.ive tried mx4 before and it perform worse than AS5..temps were 5 degrees higher than now..so no way thats coming near me again.
> 
> well im getting some stuff from a friend..pumps..rads..etc..goin to c hw it does and compare to this cooler...
> 
> any advise for running prime95?


I haven't run Prime95 in a long time, especially now since I have a 4770K and Prime is just too hard on the CPU. It forces it to undergo usage scenarios that it will never experience, and can fry the CPU if you're using Adaptive voltage. There are quite a few builds of Prime 95 and I'm not sure about what the differences are. Sorry I can't be too much help with Prime.

There are a lot of good TIMs nowadays. I use Xigmatek PTI-G4512. Xigmatek makes some nice TIMs. I used to use AS5 but it is conductive. Most of the good TIMs nowasays are non-conductive and there are many not that perform better than AS5.


----------



## X-PREDATOR




----------



## X-PREDATOR




----------



## X-PREDATOR

Not the most accurate..but i guiny rigged this freezer dail with its thermal probe to the front of the intake of the case..gonna leave it for a while wnd have a cuppa tea..
And afterwards see what the intake/ambient temps are..this probe works..if i touch it..it heats up.if i put it on ice..it drops..so it should gvme an idea


----------



## doyll

Should work fine. Try placing the probe in front of cooler intake with case closed. That way you will know how hot the air going into cooler is when you are gaming and working system hard.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

well i left it for a few min..it sayin front intake is at 21°C..ive got a 120mm in 5.25 bays as extra front intake so the temps buy rough geuss shouldnt be more than 21 -25 at the cooler..goin to place it at the back of case..first on the h60 exhaust then at cpu rear exhaust earea..running far cry3 seing
it easily pushes my cpu temps over 50 &
gpu close to 50..got the h60mod on gpu..
works great..be back here in a few hours..


----------



## X-PREDATOR

ok..played farcry3 till now..moved the probe around a bit..back exhuast is 20-35
top exhuast 20-30.this aint a good way to
measure temps..
gpu max load was 44/45
cpu all cores at 44/49
except core#2 the hottest..56..which the cpu seems to take as its temps at the end.ill upload pic of hwmonitor later


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> ok..played farcry3 till now..moved the probe around a bit..back exhuast is 20-35
> top exhuast 20-30.this aint a good way to
> measure temps..
> gpu max load was 44/45
> cpu all cores at 44/49
> except core#2 the hottest..56..which the cpu seems to take as its temps at the end.ill upload pic of hwmonitor later


HWMonitor is good. I've started using HWInfo instead, the latest beta.

Those CPU temps seem very good. I'll play some FC3 when I get home and let you know what my CPU loads to. I have 2 fans on my CPU cooler, 120mm Cougar PWM fans (800 - 1,500 RPM, 70.5 CFM max). I have 6 case fans, all of them PWM controlled Noctua NF-A14s, 3 intake and 3 exhaust.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

nice..i searched this thread the other day to see if i can find sm1using cougars..just to big a thread...
i had two 120mm fan on til now..and they gave same temps more or less than now..
i did this three fan thing for looks..but i admit..it has got merrits to it..being that the max idle and load temps are down a bit.

wow..lotta fans..
ive got:
front intake -cm mega 200mm + 120mm cm sickleflow(5.25bay suspended in the air with zips)
bottom intake - 140 silentX 900rpm 70cfm
side panel intake - 2*140 silentX
rear exhaust - 1*140mm silentX (goin to replace with higher rpm so it removes the air quicker)
top exhaust - 1*200cm mega.
bottom h60 p/p exhaust (pci slots) gpu mod two 120mm cm xtraflo
cpu - 120mm xtraflo +2*140mm ph..

the bottom/rear/top run full tilt all the time @12v from psu
rest are hooked/split onto the fancontroller so i can keepem at med to low..system is dead quiet...only fans i ever hear is h60..i run them at 50%..rest is silent..i hear more air noise than any motor noise..

cool..interesting to hear your temps


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> nice..i searched this thread the other day to see if i can find sm1using cougars..just to big a thread...
> i had two 120mm fan on til now..and they gave same temps more or less than now..
> i did this three fan thing for looks..but i admit..it has got merrits to it..being that the max idle and load temps are down a bit.
> 
> wow..lotta fans..
> ive got:
> front intake -cm mega 200mm + 120mm cm sickleflow(5.25bay suspended in the air with zips)
> bottom intake - 140 silentX 900rpm 70cfm
> side panel intake - 2*140 silentX
> rear exhaust - 1*140mm silentX (goin to replace with higher rpm so it removes the air quicker)
> top exhaust - 1*200cm mega.
> bottom h60 p/p exhaust (pci slots) gpu mod two 120mm cm xtraflo
> cpu - 120mm xtraflo +2*140mm ph..
> 
> the bottom/rear/top run full tilt all the time @12v from psu
> rest are hooked/split onto the fancontroller so i can keepem at med to low..system is dead quiet...only fans i ever hear is h60..i run them at 50%..rest is silent..i hear more air noise than any motor noise..
> 
> cool..interesting to hear your temps


OK I played some FC3 for about 15 minutes. My CPU is a 4770K @ 4.5GHz 1.28v (1.312v under load). My max temps were (cores 1-4): 65C, 63C, 61C and 55C. I'd say your temps are excellent as is.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

yours are even better than mine..my i5-2500k isnt OCed currently..so i tip my hat to you..an haswell ..at those temps..oced..very good..
i wana oc my chip..turbo boost it too 4.2..
but last time i had it at 4.00 it didnt even take..i got a bios crash on the spot.so ive been happy with stock clocks..i actualy did my pc in a haste back then cause i couldnt wait any longer for lga 2011..my plan was to go that route..sli..ect..but in the end..glad i didnt..i payed for this board/cpu/ram/psu what just one of those 2011 chips cost..so it became a budget dream..rather than my dream..

thanx..coolacanth..
has any 1 hot titanfall? how is it..i cant stop watching the youtube clips and previews..


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> yours are even better than mine..my i5-2500k isnt OCed currently..so i tip my hat to you..an haswell ..at those temps..oced..very good..
> i wana oc my chip..turbo boost it too 4.2..
> but last time i had it at 4.00 it didnt even take..i got a bios crash on the spot.so ive been happy with stock clocks..i actualy did my pc in a haste back then cause i couldnt wait any longer for lga 2011..my plan was to go that route..sli..ect..but in the end..glad i didnt..i payed for this board/cpu/ram/psu what just one of those 2011 chips cost..so it became a budget dream..rather than my dream..
> 
> thanx..coolacanth..
> has any 1 hot titanfall? how is it..i cant stop watching the youtube clips and previews..


Well I only played for 15 minutes tops. If I stress test with x264 encoding my temps go to about 75C!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Well I only played for 15 minutes tops. If I stress test with x264 encoding my temps go to about 75C!


How long does it take to reach maximum them when encoding? I only ask because mine peaks in 3-4 minutes.. and cools back down when done in about same time.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

ok im gonna ask a realy dum ?.for ive never used prime95 ever in my life..never needed to..
i tried it on another system..before tryin it on the real deal..little q6600 2.4ghz pc thats hanging about..left all at defualt..selected small fft..within 1minute system shutdown..core temps were in mid40-high 50's (cm 612p)
chipset over 90°

this is exactly why i have never used these torture/pc killing tests..heaven/furmark are the only two ive tried..and survived..3d mark vantage almost killed my previous pc..

ok..as5 seems to be starting to finaly do its thing...played fc3 last nite for more than 4hours..gpu temp maxd at 45 and cpu..under 50..hottest core was 49 the rest was dead at 45/46..
granted..the ambients were nice at 20°..thanx to that ugly freezer probe im getting.proper room temps..


----------



## X-PREDATOR

oh..sorry..how to use prime95 correctly..


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> oh..sorry..how to use prime95 correctly..


I haven't used Prime in a really long time, but this is what the recommendation is in the Haswell thread:

*Any version 27.9 or later. In advanced options check roundoff and sum(inputs)
Choose custom and set min and max FFT size to 1344*

Hope that's helpful.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

thanx..
well im not even gonna bother..this pc still has to last a long time..not goin to risk it..


----------



## iwalkwithedead

I want to join club but blue is sold out everywhere in US. Only one is on eBay but just one!


----------



## X-PREDATOR

then grab it quickly if you realy want it.
why not contact phanteks and buy directly


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iwalkwithedead*
> 
> I want to join club but blue is sold out everywhere in US. Only one is on eBay but just one!


Contact Phanteks USA customer support.

Try to get the latest release with 2nd generation PH-F140HP 4-pin PWM fans. 1st generation F140HP were 3-pin with PWM adapter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> then grab it quickly if you realy want it.
> why not contact phanteks and buy directly


No thanks on the ebay one. It's starting bid is $50 and "AS IS" condition. No warranty.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i ddnt know..was just trying to be supportive..not to many are getting big aircoolers these days..Aio clcs are getting more and more popular and better at cooling.i read a review today on a h105(costs 1800 shipping excluded in my country)..it dam well outperformed a h100i on their tests almost..so yeah somewhere sm1 has to encourage all he can if air coolers are to survive..they wont
die out now..not yet..but who knows what the future holds


----------



## iwalkwithedead

I'm actually selling my custom loop things to get an air cooler because I like the idea of it. Something so massive in my Bitfenix Phenom.







Plus I need the money for other things at the moment.

Will have to sell my Corsair Vengeance ram as well.

I love SFF!


----------



## 996gt2

Hi all,

Considering getting the PH-TC14PE for my rig to replace my Thermalright HR02.

*Will it block the first PCIE slot on a Maximus IV GENE-Z?* My graphics card has a backplate, so that will further reduce clearance by a few mm.

Pic of my board below. It has the first PCIE x16 slot in the first position, unlike some other boards which have an x1 slot there:


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *996gt2*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Considering getting the PH-TC14PE for my rig to replace my Thermalright HR02.
> 
> *Will it block the first PCIE slot on a Maximus IV GENE-Z?* My graphics card has a backplate, so that will further reduce clearance by a few mm.
> 
> Pic of my board below. It has the first PCIE x16 slot in the first position, unlike some other boards which have an x1 slot there:


If that PCIE slot is where the 1x slot is on ATX boards, then you will probably have a clearance issue, especially with a backplate.

I have my sound card in my top PCIE 1x slot and the CPU cooler's fan mounting bracket is pushing on the back of the sound card.

You can probably make it fit but your video card (with backplate) and CPU cooler will be pushing on each other a little bit. The PH-TC14PE was designed so you can use the top slot, but the clearance, especially with the fan clips on, is very tight.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

have you allready baught the cooler?
try making a dummy cooler out of a box or smthing just according to its dimensions.if you can fit just 1 of your fingers then between the back of the card and cooler(box)..you might get away with it..if you dont..i dont wana trash but look into this:
http://www.legitreviews.com/cooler-master-tpc-812-cpu-cooler-review_1913

ive personaly used this mentioned cooler in a client/friends build.i5 3570K on msi z77-gd65..turbo oc manuly to 4.4ghz...temps never exeeded 60°C even on the hottest days here..its smallish enough to fit easily.

again..sorry if im trashing..just wana help thr guy out


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *996gt2*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Considering getting the PH-TC14PE for my rig to replace my Thermalright HR02.
> 
> *Will it block the first PCIE slot on a Maximus IV GENE-Z?* My graphics card has a backplate, so that will further reduce clearance by a few mm.
> 
> Pic of my board below. It has the first PCIE x16 slot in the first position, unlike some other boards which have an x1 slot there:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


What is the distance from edge of PCI-E mount to center of CPU? I say edge of PCI because the back of most all VGA cards do not stick beyond the edge of PCI mount, even with a back cover on them.

PH-TC14PE is 70mm from side of cooler to center CPU. Add a couple mm for fan clip.


----------



## magicase

I have a question in regards to the ram height. If I was to lower the fans down so that the overall height was 165mm What is the max ram height am I allowed?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magicase*
> 
> I have a question in regards to the ram height. If I was to lower the fans down so that the overall height was 165mm What is the max ram height am I allowed?


Based on this picture, with the fan + CPU cooler at 171mm tall you have a maximum RAM height of 32.92mm. So if you're going to lower the fan so the total height is 165mm then your maximum RAM height is going to be 26.92mm.


----------



## magicase

Might have to swap out the fan then with a gentle typhoon


----------



## xartic1

My oreo. $40 shipped for the heatsink (new) and $8 for the fan PH-F140XP (used). Cooling a FX8150 inside a Corsair Air 540 with a 780 GTX strapped to a Prolimatech mk 26. Usually Don't see Over 42C load on the CPU, and 45C on the GPU.

I own 4 other of the same fans that I use on a Corsair h110. Love the quality Phanteks puts out there in their products!!

I do wish they had the top of the heatsink painted white, since all the fins and much of everything else is white.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Based on this picture, with the fan + CPU cooler at 171mm tall you have a maximum RAM height of 32.92mm. So if you're going to lower the fan so the total height is 165mm then your maximum RAM height is going to be 26.92mm.


If you have space on the side of you case, you can actually mount the fan a bit higher on the heatsink. It will be hanging over the top more, but I had to do this a small amount to accommodate my ram.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

wow..nice setup..what fan is that in the middle?

well if hes talking gt typhoons..he just as well may go with 2/3 of them..no clearance issues then bro..im chaning over to a 3 way sp120's soon.as it is now..it works great ..but having identical fans just would be better for perf wise..ive got no issue there..but want a unified look.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Based on this picture, with the fan + CPU cooler at 171mm tall you have a maximum RAM height of 32.92mm. So if you're going to lower the fan so the total height is 165mm then your maximum RAM height is going to be 26.92mm.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Actual measurements:
Installed on Gigabyte GA-EX58-UD3R Rev 1.6 w/ i7 920 top of cooler is 165-168mm from motherboard.
Installed on Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD5 rev.1 w/ i7 980 *top of cooler is 165-168mm from motherboard.*
Top of cooler was not parallel to top of CPU / motherboard.








RAM height above motherboard with 140mm fan is 28mm.

*Using Crucial Ballistics Sport (30mm tall RAM) motherboard to top of 140mm fan is 173mm*
With 120mm fan with top of cooler 165-168mm RAM can be 43mm


----------



## xartic1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> wow..nice setup..what fan is that in the middle?
> 
> well if hes talking gt typhoons..he just as well may go with 2/3 of them..no clearance issues then bro..im chaning over to a 3 way sp120's soon.as it is now..it works great ..but having identical fans just would be better for perf wise..ive got no issue there..but want a unified look.


Well it wasn't made to be installed in there but I ended up getting the little black tabs to stick while I was sliding the fan in between, PH-F140XP.
Best part, Amazon had a blue heatsink "used" for $40. Took them 10 days to email me telling me it's not longer available. They offer to honor the price on the blue one, but it wasn't in stock while the white one was. I ordered 3 different heatsinks and had the same issue with them, but I can't complain now that I own the TC14pe for $40!!


----------



## X-PREDATOR

hows the temps been so far..

ohh..at other op..gene z board guy...you can always install you gpu in the second pcie slot..that board will not have a perf hit..just make sure your cpu and bios is up to date for pcie.g3..even without this..itll run fine..then atleast no issues with space..ive seen this same board before even with two
gpus with crosfire ..so yeah its 50/50


----------



## X-PREDATOR

hows the temps been so far..

ohh..at other op..gene z board guy...you can always install you gpu in the second pcie slot..that board will not have a perf hit..just make sure your cpu and bios is up to date for pcie.g3..even without this..itll run fine..then atleast no issues with space..ive seen this same board before even with two
gpus with crosfire ..so yeah its 50/50


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> wow..nice setup..what fan is that in the middle?
> 
> well if hes talking gt typhoons..he just as well may go with 2/3 of them..no clearance issues then bro..im chaning over to a 3 way sp120's soon.as it is now..it works great ..but having identical fans just would be better for perf wise..ive got no issue there..but want a unified look.


I was having height issues too. I swapped the 140mm Phanteks fans for 120mm Cougar PWM fans. I am very happy.

Noctua makes amazing fans too.


----------



## iwalkwithedead

I got word that the cooler I want will be back in stock at the end of April.







Yay!


----------



## xartic1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> hows the temps been so far..


Ran prime95 for about an hour at 1.25V, 3.6ghz no turbo core. Highest temp it reached was 45C.

When I CPU mine on the chip, I set the voltage to 1.1375, use 6 threads at 100%, 1 thread is 25% and the other is 50% and the temps hover around 37C. Power consumption from the wall dropped 40W when I undervolted it and took off turbo core, since it was running at 1.413V and hovering around 46C.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> ohh..at other op..gene z board guy...you can always install you gpu in the second pcie slot..that board will not have a perf hit..just make sure your cpu and bios is up to date for pcie.g3..even without this..itll run fine..then atleast no issues with space..ive seen this same board before even with two
> gpus with crosfire ..so yeah its 50/50


My z87-g45 has 3 way crossfire, 2 way sli. Using the bottom slot won't allow me to run SLI between two cards, have to go with the slot above where it's closer to the 1st gpu. So at least have somewhat of an awareness in regards to that.

Edit: Dropped the voltage stable to 1.175 and it will remain at 40C, this was continuous after the other hour of testing.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

nice ..what cpu hv yu got again? i forgot..

yeah using turbo on mine i tried manual turbo settings i got from a friend..worked..but core vid went from 1.3,,v to 1.5+..so i set the power settings back to zero(defualt)
& all 4 at 37..from 4.2thats the highest ive ever tried..ddnt run prime though..used furmark/kombuster physx on cpu test..highest temps were around 55..

man if import costs and customs werent such clicks..id buy vortex and various othr stuff from US..


----------



## xartic1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> ohh..at other op..gene z board guy...you can always install you gpu in the second pcie slot..that board will not have a perf hit..just make sure your cpu and bios is up to date for pcie.g3..even without this..itll run fine..then atleast no issues with space..ive seen this same board before even with two
> gpus with crosfire ..so yeah its 50/50


My z87-g45 has 3 way crossfire, 2 way sli. Using the bottom slot won't allow me to run SLI between two cards, have to go with the slot above where it's closer to the 1st gpu. So at least have somewhat of an awareness in regards to that.


----------



## cmdub

Ended up nabbing the PWM version last friday off amazon for $85 and the day after it was delivered I got an email from newegg for a bunch of discount codes cause of a precious purchase so i asked amazon to price match and said if they didn't I'd probably return it. They ended up refunding me $27 cause the price I would have payed from newegg was $59. Couldn't be happier.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i was refering to another user with ? regarding his rog gene board which the 1st pcie lane sits very close to cpu area..which it does..ive worked on that board in qeustion..wasnt refering to you msi board.sorry i shouldv bn more clear.

guys..quick..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMxXzO3C8qo&feature=youtube_gdata_player

coolermaster is bringing out jetflo typhoons..how would these do on this cooler?im gonna try get a set


----------



## cmdub

so question i grabbed this off amazon a week or so ago and though I had gotten the 2nd gen PWM version with the 4 pin fans but when i opened it they had the 3 pin fans inside ]: obviously it comes with the splitter and connector and what not but if I plan on using 4 pin PWM fans for the rest of my case would it be advisable to upgrade these two, contact phanteks see if they'll swap them out or something







?


----------



## xartic1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmdub*
> 
> so question i grabbed this off amazon a week or so ago and though I had gotten the 2nd gen PWM version with the 4 pin fans but when i opened it they had the 3 pin fans inside ]: obviously it comes with the splitter and connector and what not but if I plan on using 4 pin PWM fans for the rest of my case would it be advisable to upgrade these two, contact phanteks see if they'll swap them out or something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


What is the exact model? For example, the one I have sandwiched in between my 2 stock fans is a PH-F140XP_BK, the PWM version. The PH-F140SP_BK, is the 3 pin model that isn't PWM controlled.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

both versions will perform similar..the newer ones are 4pin pwm..newer hub design and they changed the blades notches for less noise.
look on hightechlegion on youtube..they did a small comparison.
having identical fans in all ereas does have a better esthetic apeal and smtimes yields overall better perf..example..gentle typhoons ..sp120's..cougars..enermax..noctuas..and so forth..it doesnt always matter.but i do think having a setup with identical fans would have better consistent results..
any 1 else care to elaborate


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmdub*
> 
> so question i grabbed this off amazon a week or so ago and though I had gotten the 2nd gen PWM version with the 4 pin fans but when i opened it they had the 3 pin fans inside ]: obviously it comes with the splitter and connector and what not but if I plan on using 4 pin PWM fans for the rest of my case would it be advisable to upgrade these two, contact phanteks see if they'll swap them out or something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


It's worth a try. It's too bad the used the same model number for both the 3-pin and 4-pin versions of PH-F140HP fans.

[quote name="xartic1" url="/t/1106307/official-phanteks-ph-tc14pe-news-discussion-and-owners-thread/1820_20#post_22101601"
What is the exact model? For example, the one I have sandwiched in between my 2 stock fans is a PH-F140XP_BK, the PWM version. The PH-F140SP_BK, is the 3 pin model that isn't PWM controlled.[/quote]
The 14PE orignally came with PH-F140TS, than changed to PH-F14oHP 3-pin fans with PWM adapter, and now comes with PH-F140HP 4-pin PWM.

Noctua's NF-A15 has 2 versions, a 1500rpm one that comes with NH-U14S (& new NH-D15) while the NH-A15 they sell is that's 1200rpm. I only found this out when I contacted them about it.


----------



## cmdub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xartic1*
> 
> What is the exact model? For example, the one I have sandwiched in between my 2 stock fans is a PH-F140XP_BK, the PWM version. The PH-F140SP_BK, is the 3 pin model that isn't PWM controlled.


I got the PH-TC14PE_BK but both the fans that came with it were 3 pin so yea. They're literally the exact same as the PH-F140HP_BK(4 pin) but the ones that came with mine are 3 pin. I dont understand how people still have stock of the 1st gen fans but w/e


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> both versions will perform similar..the newer ones are 4pin pwm..newer hub design and they changed the blades notches for less noise.
> look on hightechlegion on youtube..they did a small comparison.
> \


PH-F140HP all look identical. Only obvious differences is 3-pin voltage controlled speed or 4-pin PWM controlled speed.

Running the 3-pin version on adapter with real PWM fans results in the 3-pin fans do not spin the same rpin and PWM fans, even if the same PWM range is specified.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmdub*
> 
> I got the PH-TC14PE_BK but both the fans that came with it were 3 pin so yea. They're literally the exact same as the PH-F140HP_BK(4 pin) but the ones that came with mine are 3 pin. I dont understand how people still have stock of the 1st gen fans but w/e


Just looked at Amazon.com and only one listed says
Quote:
Phanteks CPU Cooler with 5 x 8mm Dual Heat-pipes, _140mm Premium Fans and PWM Adaptor_, Patented P.A.T.S Coating, PH-TC14PE_BK (Black)
http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Heat-pipes-Premium-Patented-PH-TC14PE_BK/dp/B007ZZE63A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397335424&sr=8-1&keywords=ph-tc14pe+bk

Still worth a try to contact Phanteks and see if they will upgrade them for you. If not TY-147 fans look bad on black 14PE. I have them on mine. Don't have a pic of it but here's one with TY-143 fans


Here is a combo of TY-140 and TY-147 fans on red 14PE


----------



## cmdub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> PH-F140HP all look identical. Only obvious differences is 3-pin voltage controlled speed or 4-pin PWM controlled speed.
> 
> Running the 3-pin version on adapter with real PWM fans results in the 3-pin fans do not spin the same rpin and PWM fans, even if the same PWM range is specified.
> Just looked at Amazon.com and only one listed says
> Phanteks CPU Cooler with 5 x 8mm Dual Heat-pipes, _140mm Premium Fans and PWM Adaptor_, Patented P.A.T.S Coating, PH-TC14PE_BK (Black)
> http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Heat-pipes-Premium-Patented-PH-TC14PE_BK/dp/B007ZZE63A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397335424&sr=8-1&keywords=ph-tc14pe+bk
> 
> Still worth a try to contact Phanteks and see if they will upgrade them for you. If not TY-147 fans look bad on black 14PE. I have them on mine. Don't have a pic of it but here's one with TY-143 fans
> 
> 
> Here is a combo of TY-140 and TY-147 fans on red 14PE


yea i mean i feel i guess if im gonna spend over 1k on a build might as well make sure im getting optimal performance from the fans. I'll hit up phanteks on monday and then if they politely tell me to **** off ill just end up replacing the stock ones with w/e ones i buy for the case as well


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmdub*
> 
> yea i mean i feel i guess if im gonna spend over 1k on a build might as well make sure im getting optimal performance from the fans. I'll hit up phanteks on monday and then if they politely tell me to **** off ill just end up replacing the stock ones with w/e ones i buy for the case as well


Reason some of use are using TY-147 fans is that before Phanteks had PWM fans for 14PE we wanted PWM... and TY-147 were a little better than PH-F140TS.

Reason for using TY-143 is it's a 2500rpm 130cfm fan that when ran below 1300rpm is as quiet as any good fan is, but when we want more cooling...


----------



## cmdub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Reason some of use are using TY-147 fans is that before Phanteks had PWM fans for 14PE we wanted PWM... and TY-147 were a little better than PH-F140TS.
> 
> Reason for using TY-143 is it's a 2500rpm 130cfm fan that when ran below 1300rpm is as quiet as any good fan is, but when we want more cooling...


finish your thought


----------



## doyll

Maximum cooling is noisy. How loud do you want it to be?


----------



## cmdub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Maximum cooling is noisy. How loud do you want it to be?


haha o no i thought u were leaning towards something else. i actually want it to be somewhat quiet which is why i wanna use all pwm fans as opposed to having them run at 100% all the time when its not needed


----------



## doyll

My sig rig is PWM. General fans run 700rpm in mid 20s, medium load is 800rpm in the 30s and 100% is 950-1050rpm in the 40s. CPU never goes above 50c. Bottom intake is now controlled by GPU PWM signal.

You might find this interesting.
TY-140 TY-143 FN053 rpm on same % PWM signal
. rpm . . rpm . . rpm
. 635 . . 609 . . 660
. 692 . . 711 . . 771
. 806 . . 792 . . 780
. 900 . . 990 . . 863
. 998 . 1269 . 1004
1100 . 1650 . 1208
1203 . 2000 . 1542
1300 . 2491 . 1744


----------



## X-PREDATOR

hey how did you hook up the pwm from gpu..i still want to hook up my mod fan to the gpu


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> hey how did you hook up the pwm from gpu..i still want to hook up my mod fan to the gpu


First link in sig.


----------



## cmdub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> My sig rig is PWM. General fans run 700rpm in mid 20s, medium load is 800rpm in the 30s and 100% is 950-1050rpm in the 40s. CPU never goes above 50c. Bottom intake is now controlled by GPU PWM signal.
> 
> You might find this interesting.
> TY-140 TY-143 FN053 rpm on same % PWM signal
> . rpm . . rpm . . rpm
> . 635 . . 609 . . 660
> . 692 . . 711 . . 771
> . 806 . . 792 . . 780
> . 900 . . 990 . . 863
> . 998 . 1269 . 1004
> 1100 . 1650 . 1208
> 1203 . 2000 . 1542
> 1300 . 2491 . 1744


yea i noticed that the 143 has a much higher RPM so I'd imagine it would make more sense to use 2 of those on the heatsinks and just use 140/147's around the case as I'm assuming there wouldn't be much point in using 2000+ rpm case fans as it could get quite loud and it wouldn't be too much of a difference


----------



## doyll

Really don't need to. All can be TY-147 fans with no problems. I use TY-143 for CPU cooler AND the exhaust vent behind cooler to remove the cooler exhaust at the same rate it flows through cooler.


----------



## cmdub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Really don't need to. All can be TY-147 fans with no problems. I use TY-143 for CPU cooler AND the exhaust vent behind cooler to remove the cooler exhaust at the same rate it flows through cooler.


that actually makes a lot of sense using the same type of fans for the cooler as the exhaust behind the cooler so it moves in and out in sync


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Nice setup D..hows the primo case been for you.ive given up trying to get one..absolutely no body is willing to import it for me.plus i cant buy directly..already tried..

Can any one with windows 8 exp help me maybe..my mums laptop doesnt want to boot.boot sectors and partitions are missing


----------



## thehidecheck

My silverstone tf02 used to be laughed at and picked on at school. It's cpu cooler always looked tiny, but that was in proportion to its size. We didn't know what to do, me and my computer. Then one day, we saw the phantek. It was a match made in heaven. Finally, a cooler as large and in charge as my case. Now all the power supply's are asking him out on dates.
My apologies if anyone took offense to the cable management, i have braided extensions just expect to upgrade soon so i couldnt be bothered.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thehidecheck*
> 
> My silverstone tf02 used to be laughed at and picked on at school. It's cpu cooler always looked tiny, but that was in proportion to its size. We didn't know what to do, me and my computer. Then one day, we saw the phantek. It was a match made in heaven. Finally, a cooler as large and in charge as my case. *Now all the power supply's are asking him out on dates*.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My apologies if anyone took offense to the cable management, i have braided extensions just expect to upgrade soon so i couldnt be bothered.












Glad you like the cooler and that your TF02 is one of the cool kids now.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

its so..so..so..BIG..!!!
nice setup bro..what gpus you got there..hey tell those people who laughed at you:
look in the mirror and then youll actualy see what your laughing at..plus tell them youve got a backup plan in SA who is very agro-ME...i hate it when people make fun of something..theyre just jelous thats why...

man you gotta love these silverstoners..im on the hunt for a newer case for my matx setup..the scout is great..but a real pain to work with space wise..


----------



## thehidecheck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> its so..so..so..BIG..!!!
> nice setup bro..what gpus you got there..hey tell those people who laughed at you:
> look in the mirror and then youll actualy see what your laughing at..plus tell them youve got a backup plan in SA who is very agro-ME...i hate it when people make fun of something..theyre just jelous thats why...
> 
> man you gotta love these silverstoners..im on the hunt for a newer case for my matx setup..the scout is great..but a real pain to work with space wise..


silverstone tj08 or ps07, cant go wrong


----------



## X-PREDATOR

thanx..hows the cooler been so far


----------



## thehidecheck

Looking for a fan controller, my motherboard, even on its lowest settings, wont let me undervolt the fans as low as i want them to go. Complete overkill for my 3570k, though im looking to jump on haswell-e soon as it comes out.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

???why jump over to something so expensive..unless you got a secret stash..i dont see why..im just curious..whatsgoin to happen to the 3570k?

oh for fancontroller id look into a bitfenix recon..has temp probes..software control for manual mode..realy works well

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6R2xoAPPQcs

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=bitfenix+recon+review


----------



## iwalkwithedead

Crap forgot to show mine off.


Full PCPartPicker List



Spoiler: Installing Pics!



_*Not a special build anymore but good enough. No pics of the inside fully installed because it's trashed! Will take more in the future!_


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thehidecheck*
> 
> Looking for a fan controller, my motherboard, even on its lowest settings, wont let me undervolt the fans as low as i want them to go. Complete overkill for my 3570k, though im looking to jump on haswell-e soon as it comes out.


I have used many fan controllers throughout the years. My favorite is the Sunbeam Rheobus. It goes from 0v to 12v. There are various different models.

http://www.bestdealbuys.us/p/Sunbeam-Black-Rheobus-Fan-And-Light-Controller-31679137.html
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811995075


----------



## nvspace126

A quick question for Phantek owners, is there a list of compatible cases (mid-tower/full tower) for the heat sink? I bought the cooler last year and it's running great, but unfortunately I can't put back my case side lid because of the height of the heat sink. I've been looking to grab a new case and was curious as to know which case could be an option.

Thank you in advance


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvspace126*
> 
> A quick question for Phantek owners, is there a list of compatible cases (mid-tower/full tower) for the heat sink? I bought the cooler last year and it's running great, but unfortunately I can't put back my case side lid because of the height of the heat sink. I've been looking to grab a new case and was curious as to know which case could be an option.
> 
> Thank you in advance


Is your sig system the one you need a new case for?
If so, what Corsair RAM is it?
If not, please give us a list of what your system is.


----------



## nvspace126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Is your sig system the one you need a new case for?
> If so, what Corsair RAM is it?
> If not, please give us a list of what your system is.


It's for the same system, but I haven't updated the list in a while. The ram presently in the system is the Kingston HyperX Blu Black Series 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 CL9 DIMM Dual Channel and the Phanteks is sitting right above it as we speak horizontally.


----------



## doyll

ideally get a case that has a 168-170mm CPU clearance. Phanteks says 14PE needs 171mm CPU clearance but if you push the fans down as low as possible you can get by with about 165mm CPU clearance. My old Define R2 had 165mm CPU clearance with 14PE in it.

Kingston HyperX Blu Black Series is 30mm tall + 3mm for socket is 33mm from motherboard to top of RAM.
14PE cooler is 160mm tall + 8mm from cpu to motherboard is 168mm from motherboard to top of cooler
F140 fans are 140mm + 33mm RAM is 173 from motherboard to top of fan.
173mm - 8mm for motherboard to top of CPU is 165mm minimum CPU clearance.


----------



## nvspace126

Thank you very much for the information - it gives me good numbers to work with. Out of curiosity, is the Fractal R4 wider then the R2? (I was looking at both cases as options).


----------



## doyll

LOL
I almost suggested the Define R4. Good case at reasonable price. I would suggest changing the fans to PWM and controlling them with motherboard CPU fan header and maybe GPU fan header for PWM signal. Details of how to do it in first link in sig. There are a couple of threads on Define R4 in last week or so about this.


----------



## superchad

hello everyone, i am a new owner of the PH-TC14PE and have been looking at replacing my fans with some that are higher performance, i know static pressure is important to heatsink fans, but i am unsure which fan to pick and have been comparing several, here is what i am looking at and basic specs:

i am going to say for me, ultimate cooling performance trumps noise and cost, all these fans look or come in versiosn that look good to me (trying to stray away from the FHP-141 but i might consider it). also PWM is greatly appreciated, which of these fans would be the best? what is the relationship between CFM and static pressure? does the Akasa at 2.91mm and 3.12mm and 110cfm out perform the bitfenix at 122cfm and 2.8mm? which overall is the best fan no? if the Akasa is the best, what is the second best (not a huge fan of the yellow blades).

Phanteks PH-140HP:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709025
88.6 CFM
1.64mm H2O static pressure

BitFenix Spectre Pro BFF-SPRO-P14025KK-RP :
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835345069
122.2 CFM
2.8mm H20 static pressure

NZXT FX 140LB PWM:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835146035
http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/126-fx-140lb-pwm-case-fan.html
116.7 CFM
2.8mm H2O

bgears B-PWM:
http://bgears.com/b-pwm.html
110 CFM
3.5mm H2O static pressure
(not availible on newegg)

bgears B-Blaster
http://bgears.com/b-blaster.html
103 CFM
3.5mm H2O static pressure
(not PWM)

akasa 14cm Viper R:
http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Fans&type_sub=PWM
%20Control&model=AK-FN073
109.55 CFM
2.91mm H2O
(not a fan of the yellow fan blades)

akasa 14cm Viper:
http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Fans&type_sub=PWM
%20Control&model=AK-FN063
110.61 CFM
3.12mm H2O
(not a fan of the yellow fan blades)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superchad*
> 
> hello everyone, i am a new owner of the PH-TC14PE and have been looking at replacing my fans with some that are higher performance, i know static pressure is important to heatsink fans, but i am unsure which fan to pick and have been comparing several, here is what i am looking at and basic specs:
> 
> *i am going to say for me, ultimate cooling performance trumps noise and cost,* all these fans look or come in versiosn that look good to me (trying to stray away from the FHP-141 but i might consider it). also PWM is greatly appreciated, which of these fans would be the best? what is the relationship between CFM and static pressure? does the Akasa at 2.91mm and 3.12mm and 110cfm out perform the bitfenix at 122cfm and 2.8mm? which overall is the best fan no? if the Akasa is the best, what is the second best (not a huge fan of the yellow blades).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks PH-140HP:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709025
> 88.6 CFM
> 1.64mm H2O static pressure
> 
> BitFenix Spectre Pro BFF-SPRO-P14025KK-RP :
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835345069
> 122.2 CFM
> 2.8mm H20 static pressure
> 
> NZXT FX 140LB PWM:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835146035
> http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/126-fx-140lb-pwm-case-fan.html
> 116.7 CFM
> 2.8mm H2O
> 
> bgears B-PWM:
> http://bgears.com/b-pwm.html
> 110 CFM
> 3.5mm H2O static pressure
> (not availible on newegg)
> 
> bgears B-Blaster
> http://bgears.com/b-blaster.html
> 103 CFM
> 3.5mm H2O static pressure
> (not PWM)
> 
> akasa 14cm Viper R:
> http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Fans&type_sub=PWM
> %20Control&model=AK-FN073
> 109.55 CFM
> 2.91mm H2O
> (not a fan of the yellow fan blades)
> 
> akasa 14cm Viper:
> http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Fans&type_sub=PWM
> %20Control&model=AK-FN063
> 110.61 CFM
> 3.12mm H2O
> 
> 
> (not a fan of the yellow fan blades)


First, welcome!








FHP141 will not fit between fin packs so forget it.
My 'go to' fan is Thermalright TY-143; 130cfm, 2500rpm, PWM red housing with orange fan and you will need a PWM splitter with PSU power connector as they draw 0.6amp each. If you 14PE is red you are in luck. They also look good on black


----------



## superchad

thanks for the welcome, i have lurked around here in the past but didnt create an account till today

i know it wont fit, i was thinking about using a FHP-141 for the first fan and maybe the last fan with one that fits in the middle (not ideal look, but would have great performance)

interesting, what is the static pressure on those fans? also i have a black PH-TC14PE so i am trying to find something similar in color and looks, (black preferred to match my cooler and the rest of my computer). so what would be the best on my list, and how would i determine the best, is their some sort of ratio between static pressure and airflow or is higher static pressure always better regardless of airflow?

edit:

according to research the TY-140 has a static pressure of 1.89mm H2O, the TY-143 spins 48% faster, so in theory should have about a 2.8mm H2O static pressure


----------



## doyll

I don't know what the TY-143 static pressure is. I do know all of the TY-140 series have plenty for air coolers and cases. Well, not sure about the new TY-14013 as they are only 13mm thick.
Keep in mind the fan clips are for 120mm fan mount spacing, not 140mm mounts.
I'm using TY-143s but honestly I never run them about 1050rpm unless I'm showing off.








TY-147 with black housing and white fan look quite nice.

Scythe Slip Stream 140 PWM Adjustable VR (SM1425SL12HPVC-V) are all black and quite good. 1700rpm PWM, 92.4cfm and 2.32mm H2O, but unfortunately they have been discontinued. There are some still available out there.


----------



## superchad

oh ok, well if they are thin its probably lower.

yeah but the perfomance of that is less than the NZXT FX 140LB PWM and BitFenix Spectre Pro PWM, and im sure i can find a way to adapt 140mm mounts to the heatsink.


----------



## doyll

I never believe manufactures specs. Many outright lie. Scythe do what they say on the tin. So do Noctua, Phanteks, Cryorig, Thermalright.


----------



## superchad

well they have to be at least somewhat true, i have heard the FHP-141 sometimes performs better than stated (i would test mine if i could) i do want to have the best air cooling setup i can get with my TC14PE

how do NZXT and BitFenix do? i am more considering the BitFenix than the NZXT (NZXT looks cooler, but BitFenix performs better on paper at least, at a lower noise, and has 120mm mounts as well as 140mm mounts)

what about Akasa? it seems nice and i earlier somewhere online (i want to say here but cant remember) that it performs well (even better than the higher static pressure bgears.


----------



## doyll

"Somewhat true" is they all blow air. Very few people understand how flow and resistance specifications translate into real world use.
CFM rating is how much air fan flows with nothing obstructing it's airflow.
mm H2O is the maximum height fan can push water up the tube.. which is also the point it stops flowing any air.

A 50cfm fan with 3.0mm H2O specs will flow 35cfm with 1.0mm H2O resistance / restriction. (guessing)
A 80cfm fan with 1.0mm H2O specs will not flow any air at 1.0mm H2O resistance. (fact)

The fan market has changes dramatically the last few years. I have little knowledge of all the newer models.. and had little knowledge of most of the older ones.

Most performance claims on forums are made with no actual testing or truth. They get one or two new fans, install them and claim how great they are. After half a dozen do this others start claiming how good they are based on what the first bunch posted. None of us use fans in anything close to the way the specification are taken.

Most often testing of coolers is done in cases with no accurate baseline baseline temperature. The only thing the results show is how that particular setup performs, not how well the cooler or fans perform. Just changing the fans on a cooler in a case changes the temperature of air going into cooler. For example, a case with a 50cfm back exhaust fan with 50cfm fans on cooler will remove most of the heated exhaust coming from the cooler. But put 130cfm fans on cooler and 80cfm of the heated exhaust circulates inside the case while the exhaust fan only removes its' 50cfm making the cooler intake air temp much higher.. The CPU temperature is lower with the 130cfm fans but not as low as it would be if the air temperature going into cooler was the same as it was with the 50cfm fans. If there is 10c difference in the cooler intake air temp, than the CPU temp will be off by a similar amount.

We have some good testers here. Cyclops, ehume Tater Tot have done extensive testing of fans. Martin of MartinsLiquidLab also does good work. When you learn how they do their testing you will see thy use coolers and radiators and often use CPU temperature as a gauge of how the fans perform. But even with all their fine work they often only have one or two of each fan to test, meaning it is very hard to be sure those test samples are an average of that model fan.

Sorry for rambling on and on.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

also welcome..great cooler.
if youre goin for good cooling..all black and affordable

corsair sp120
cm blademaster 120mm
or try get the new cm jetflo typhoons..they look vrrry good.
but if you can get what D said even better..
the noctuas are still top notch and second i would say sp120's TTLC tom logan did a test
and the sp120s were very close call in the end.
there are many good options out there


----------



## superchad

doyll: i have a basic understanding, but not very well knowledge of it, i knew that about CFM but didnt know that about static pressure, i knew it is important for heatsinks and radiators, more so than airflow due to being able to push more air with higher static pressures

interesting, so does that mean a 122cfm fan with about 2.8mm H2O specs will flow about about 78cfm with 1.0mm H2O resistance?

(cfm/static pressure specs) x (static pressure specs - resistance/restriction) = airflow at that resistance?

so for the Spectere Pro PWM at 1.0mm static pressure

(122/2.8) x (2.8 - 1)
(43.57) x (1.8) = 78cfm?

so about 43.57cfm per 1mm of static pressure at least in theory?
the question is, what is the resistance of the TC14PE? and can the ideal fan be calculated based on that resistance?

i too have little knowledge of models, hence why i am asking.

interesting, that makes sense, i lost where i had seen that claim and wish i could find it, i think the guy was doing some testing on it, i just dont remember where i saw it

true, the only way to test something is to use all the same components in each test and make sure that nothing is poorly set up like a low air flow exahust fan, my rear exahust is non issue, its an FHP-141 so it moves at 1200RPM about 103cfm (and i dont think it ever falls below that either, and if it does the CPU fans fall well below that since they only move 78cfm) my top exahust is a BitFenix Spectre Pro LED 200mm fan (148cfm). and that makes sense, i would say if you have a 130cfm cpu fan you should have a rear fan able to remove that (and some fan to feet cool air into the case)

thanks for the info, do you think they would be able to say which fan would be the best? and true, if i was rich i would try each possible model to find the best one, but im not, i will be spending probably $45 to $60 on the fans

no problem, i appreciate the advice.

X-PREDATOR: thanks, i agree, i read some reviews on it a while ago and it seemed to beat the D14 (if both had the same fans) plus it was cheaper and looked nice than the new D15 (while being similar if not better in perfomance)

i am trying to stick with 140mm fans however for various reasons (VRM cooling being one of them, as it seems they stick down a bit below the heatsink, as well as pushing air through more of the heatsink)


----------



## X-PREDATOR

up till 2weeks ago ive been running 2*120mm cm xtraflo red led [email protected]% fan speed in bios via gelid pwm splitter..1400rpm..perty little noise..very faint..max temps ive ever seen was close to 60 on #2 core..its my chips hottest part..for some odd reason..
for a whole year..
i only now removed the cooler for decent springclean..surprisingly the As5 Tim was still proper and moist..after a hole years usage..i was amazed..
anyhoot..clean out the cooler..cpu ect..
got out the included ph fans..put 1 in middle..2nd on the rear and kept 1 120 cm in the front for good measure...hehe..insanity is doing same thing 24/7..well im bonkers..
just wish these ph fans werent so noisy above 900rpm..they surely have good pressure ..airflo itself..nah..bad..but h20..theyre golden..max cpu temps ive seen is 52 on hottest core in game..
i use FC3 as a base for personal preference..as it can realy tax cpu/gpu/ram in game..

so in all honesty..from 140 to 120mm theres not a big difference in temps..
but i would highly recommend if short
on space..go for 2 way or 3way sp120's
or noctuas pwm nf f120..
next to that..if cheaper like i said
cooler Masters blademasters have very good performence in the h20 sector


----------



## doyll

There is no equation for figuring out what the cfm will be at a specific mm H2O. That is part of the problem wiht the way fans are spec'ed. And no, you cannot calculate what fans are best. There are certain guidelines to follow but that about it.

It's similar to the horsepower and torque specs on an engine. We need to run it on a dyno and get the see torque and horsepower graphs to know how the engine will perform.

The second link in my sig may be helpful.


----------



## superchad

X-PREDATOR: i just feel that 120mm would not push air through the whole heatsink and would leave parts of it uncooled, so im sticking with 140mms, i dont mind the fans, i have them set to run slow when idle, if they spin up loud my CPU is doing work and i dont mind the noise, not really short on space though. do the 120mm provide better perfomance than 140mm?

how often and how much dust gets in the TC14PE? and how easy is it to clean out, i had a zalman before and the dust was annoying on it, but i could remove it while the system was running.

doyll: i guess, but could you come up with a general estimate of what you might expect? i will read that when i have some more time


----------



## X-PREDATOR

dude..no pun intended..but were do you get off that 120mm wont push enough air?

i was running 2 120mm cm xtra flo(cheap when i got them) for a hole 1YEAR..had zero issues with temps..if you use identical fans in push/pull -push..ect...
at exact same rpm..youll have zero issues..120mm fits perfectly on the heatsink..covers hole section were mounted...
granted 140mm do same thing at lower speeds..

cleaning..well it all depends on how frantic you are about cleanlyness..
i blow out the hole pc bit by bit with air..(vacuum cleaner converts into airblower with attachments) plus literaly vacuum out the airvents..fans..wipe it out with micro dust cloth..atleast 1 a month..i vacuum house every week..so pc gets a quick dust off too then..

heatsink- very small thin fine hair paint brush works good to lightly brush out easy to reach spots ..then just use what ever tools available to blow dust out..compressor works best for its got more power to do so..

i say again- only reason i put the 140mm fans on my cooler is for looks and too see if theres realy any benefit..maybe by a 1-3°C..but thats mootless...

D..your right..but know one has that kinda setup at home to test stuff unless your very very rich..i cant say 1 fan is better than the other but based on others who test these i can make recommendations

i read mostly:
youtube
martins lab fan tests
linus t.tips
TTLC OC3d tom logan..

a few others too..

op...what case do you have..what setup?what other fans in the pc?


----------



## doyll

There are all kinds of 120mm and 140mm fans and they push all kinds of flow patterns. 140mm fan of same design and speed as 120mm fan moves about 50% more air. In other words 2x 140mm fans will move as much air as 3x 120mm fans. Also 140mm fan area means airflow over a larger area of cooler fins. End result is 14PE with 2x 140mm fans at 900rpm will move more air over a larger area than 2x 120mm fans of same design and speed. Key words are "of same design and speed."


----------



## superchad

since the heatsink is 140mm i do want air flowing through as much of the heatsink as possible, thats what i am meaning, not saying 120s wont push enough air, smaller fan blades wont cover as much of the heatsink

plus 140mm are quieter, while i said noise isnt an issue and that i want the ultimate cooling performance, though i also dont want it to be crazy loud, so im sticking with 140s (plus being able to move air through more of the heatsink)

not franctic, i just had some occasional problems with my old zalman getting dusty (and air not flowing through it) just dont want it clogged so it doesnt function properly.

actualy 1-3 degrees cooler could be noticible depending on the system, if it drops me under the thermal limit and having my CPU will it will either throttle or burn up, i want to squeeze every drop of performance out of it overclocking, and dont want cooling to limit it even one bit. my CPU starts throttling at 70 degrees socket temp, the temp to not exceed is 62 or 65 degrees core temp (provided via AMD Overdrive)

my case is a Cooler Master HAF XM, front air intake is stock 200mm red fan, side air intake BitFenix 230mm 156cfm, top exahust is 200mm 148cfm (dust filter removed) top intake is stock 200mm (intake to create positive pressure) and rear exahust is SilverStone FHP-141 171cfm, i also have a 78cfm 120mm mounted on the hard drive bay to help cool drives and GPU

my CPU is a an AMD FX-8350 and Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 motherboard, GPU is Asus GTX 570 reference cooler design.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

that is a awsome setup bro..
but why top intake and exhaust?
turn all fans into intake and rear/ top to
exhaust..
man i love that case you got..just a shame it so expensive...


----------



## doyll

With the FHP141 as back exhaust a couple of TY-143 on cooler with all 3 using same PWM signal should work very well.


----------



## nvspace126

Well thanks to you guys, I just got my PH-TC14PE setup in a brand new Fractal R4









I'm running with stock fans, but I plan to change that soon









Phone camera picture so sorry for the quality:


----------



## doyll

Looks very nice.








How much clearance is there between cooler and side cover?

You might consider moving HDDs down to 3x HDD cage and removing the 5x HDD cage out for better airflow.


----------



## iwalkwithedead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvspace126*
> 
> Well thanks to you guys, I just got my PH-TC14PE setup in a brand new Fractal R4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running with stock fans, but I plan to change that soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Phone camera picture so sorry for the quality:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like the orange color.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvspace126*
> 
> Well thanks to you guys, I just got my PH-TC14PE setup in a brand new Fractal R4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running with stock fans, but I plan to change that soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Phone camera picture so sorry for the quality:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What RAM are you using to set the front fan so low?


----------



## nvspace126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> What RAM are you using to set the front fan so low?


The Kingston HyperX Blu Black Series 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 CL9 DIMM Dual Channel, works really well and I could have lower the fans even more.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks very nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much clearance is there between cooler and side cover?


There was about an Inch left - it was actually quite roomy. I can give you the exact measure when I get home.


----------



## superchad

X-PREDATOR
thanks, im doing top intake because i have more air moving out then in, creating negative pressure, which would pull air (and dust) in from openings, positive pressure would push air out of openings, keeping my case dust free.

it a pretty nice case, i want to get something a bit bigger someday (better airflow, maybe more HDD bays). its only $130 not too expensive

doyll
yeah but like i said i want the best possible fan, would they provide the BEST possible cooling solution? plus they are relatively loud. (louder than i want)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superchad*
> 
> doyll
> yeah but like i said i want the best possible fan, would they provide the BEST possible cooling solution? plus they are relatively loud. (louder than i want)


Fans for what?
What fans ae you referring to?


----------



## superchad

the fans for my heatsink
Quote:


> With the FHP141 as back exhaust a couple of TY-143 on cooler with all 3 using same PWM signal should work very well.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

superchad

i can with full hearts confidence state..with to many intakes..especialy top mounted fans..your goin against nature.theres a person in my town.we argue alot about this exact topic..his system is constantly a dust mine outside and inside..why..positive pressure setup..all his fans are intake..
case is haf x
top intake 2*200mm
side intake 200m
front 200mm intake
rear h80 intake push pull..
psu..1200 silent pro gold setup as exhauast system for hole setup...
this setup looks like a bad day under a car bonet...ok granted he never shuts down the setup unless he adds or needs to..

i believe inlaws of physics

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Qe-2ZqmSGug&ctp=CAMQpDAYASITCPH6xKX4ib4CFcqIwgodZUIA0g%3D%3D&guid=&gl=ZA&client=mv-google&hl=en

having a natural balanced airflo is key to the hole setup..
you can have more or all fans as intake..but..the must be a faster escape route for the heat than its own pressure..thar build up in heat can not be good..espesialy a small case..i like it btw..i google anything immediately if i like it..so kudos to you..the sg10 has very nice caracteristics for such a smallish case..heck if i had cash to burn id be at the helm to buy one..

@ nvspace126
im lovn your choice with ya..
never thaught id see another ornage in here..ive only seen a mi..nute..few


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## doyll

I would like to see that test with smoke going into top vent perpendicular instead of at an angle.









Much of top fan's air is wasted hitting side of cooler and going out back vent. Top vent needs to be farther forward and feeding cool air to CPU cooler intake.

Here is an example of good airflow for both CPU and GPU. Notice the top fan in front is supplying CPU cooler while top fan is doing very little. Also there is no exhaust airflow in GPU area. This is where removing PCI-E slot covers helps.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=goIqKrL3RGQ


----------



## X-PREDATOR

very good example..it just proves that top intake doesnt do much good..top fan in that demo doesnt do jack..ill do a test on my own setup..ill disable the top exhaust 200mm..which then leaves only the rear 140mm as exhaust and of course the open vents on the side panel and rest of case..if my temps increase anywere over 50 52..then im right..top must either be exhuast fan or nothing..
thanks D..


----------



## doyll

"Doesn't do jack" when there is a front intake inline with cooler intake fan.









If the upper fan in front was not there, the top fan.. and if top fan was closer to the front too.. it would than flow cool air to CPU intake fan. But that is if the upper front fan is not an option.

May of our cases have 3x or more optical bays in front panel... and optical drives are not needed or used much anymore... so it is only logical to use a 3x optical / 5.25" bay intake adapter.


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## X-PREDATOR

thats what i do..i put either 120/140mm in this area at low rpm for better intake..works great..


----------



## superchad

well from what i heard, you dont want more outflow air than inflow air (the case has to make up for that somehow, you cant have a vaccum, so it pulls air in from cracks in crevices, bypassing dust filters) with more air going in than out air is pushed out of those cracks and crevices, otherwise i would have my case clogged with dust, im thinking about adding a 140mm bottom intake (and cutting the case to add a place to put it) so that i can change that top intake to exahust


----------



## X-PREDATOR

well if you have all the fans as intake and only the top for exhaust youll still be fine

read this and put your ind at eas ..hf xm was it ????

go at it like this..
front 200mm intake (reposition and remove the hd cages if possable )
side panel 200mm intake
rear exhaust(depending how and were yhe case is goin to be put..but generaly exhaust is best here)
top...exhaust either the 200mm included or go crazy and get a couple 120/140mm for a bit faster exhaust action..a couple 700 to 1200 rpm fans is golden in terms off silence vs perf..
personaly if i may..a single 200mm is more than enough for exhaust in the top..now the hafxm can take two..so go for two 200mm for crazy good airflow dynamics:thumb:


----------



## superchad

front 200mm is intake, HD cages full so repositioning and removing them not an option

side panel is 230mm intake

rear is exhaust and is the highest airflow fan

top rear is exhaust

top front is intake (like i said to balance pressure, so air out is not greater than air in)

in fans

side 230mm ~ 156cfm
front 200mm ~ 110cfm - will be replaced with 230mm 156cfm
top 200mm ~ 110cfm - will be replaced with 200mm 148cfm

out fans

rear 140mm ~ 171cfm max
top 200mm ~ 148cfm

plus i want 2 top fans (one blue LED looks strange)

anyways like i said its to balance pressure (if i have more air OUT than IN, it has to pull air from somewhere, which that somewhere is cracks, crevices, and vents, that dont have dust filters, thus bringing dust in)

if i did only 2 intakes there would be siginficantly more air out than in, creating a dust problem, to prevent that i need more air outflow than inflow


----------



## X-PREDATOR

your correct with what you say..but that fron top intake 200mm is just recycling the rear top exhuast 200mm..
because once the air thats vented out it doesnt go straight up or whatnot..its hanging about..and any nearby draft can pull it in any direction..in your case..the intake 200mm..
just try it..
front in
side in
top both xhuast
rear exhaust..
if you can..add a 140mm onto the hd caddy on the inside of the case blowin air towards/across gpu..this will force the air in a more front to back pattern..

why so many harddrives?
a ssd and single 3tb should be plenty..get a docking station rather for external usage of your hds..that way you open up more space for better airflo and two bonusses:
prolong hd lifespan by not having them run 24/7
2ndly save on some energy wasted by all that bit of power saved from not overloading the psu with hds..
my old scout case setups case temps drop from 1-5°c if i remove all the hds but the os drive..cause they block alot of air intake from front..so its either having a clean cool looking managed build..or a full house and poor airflo.

im removing my main rigs hd cage soon as i find my 2nd 5.25 caddy converter..remove my bottom intake..and if it does great with temps..ill remove my side fans too or just keep them off with the fancontroller..

good luck


----------



## TheMostEffect

What about Case Cooler Master 692 Advanced, for best airflow management with Phanteks?


----------



## zila

Agreed X-Predator, that's pretty much the way I'm going to set mine up too. The air flow should be straight in the front and sides and then out the back and top. I have a PH-TC14PE on the way. It should be here tomorrow some time. Gonna cool an FX-8320 with it.

What I'm thinking of doing is, put a 120mm Helix fan on the front of the Phanteks another Helix as the back exhaust and just move the 140mm fans back. That's the plan but until the cooler arrives I won't know for sure. The NH-D14 fit without a problem and I'm hoping the Phanteks will too. I'm squeezing this into a HAF912 with a Giga UD5 Rev.3 . I got the black one and it should look sharp in there.









I'll take pictures of it and post up when I'm done with the install. This is gonna be fun.


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## X-PREDATOR




----------



## X-PREDATOR

zila..nice..so youve got a d14?

@most effect is it the windowed version or normal panel one? if non window----##

loook at pic of that case.remove the hd caddies as much as pssble..mount them at bottom of case instead of like in that pic..
then

front intake 5,25 bays 1 120/140mm
front intake 120/140mm x 2
## side panel intake 120/140m
top exhaust 2 120/140mm
rear exhaust 120/140 mm

if all the fan options in the case can support 140mm..go for that instead of 120mm..but get decent 500 to 1500rpm capable pwm fans like the TY143/145/147 or look at the corsair sp series and air series they are very good..if silence is needed get a pwm fan hub or fancontroller..its a lot more simplified than using motherboards bios for each fan..

im no pro
but welcome to all the new proud owners of this cooler..i salute you for your purchase


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## zila

Mine is the non-windowed version HAF912. Yes, I have a NH-D14 but I'm currently cooling with a Corsair H70 with Push/Pull Scythe Ultra Kaze 3K fans. It whoops the NH-D14. My case is setup with 200mm front intake, 140mm side intake, 120mm rear exhaust and 200mm top exhaust. My HDD's are in the bottom and the top HDD cage has been removed mostly due to the fact that I have a HD5870 with Arctic Cooling Accelero Xtreme 5870 cooler and that sucker is huge. But this case has awesome airflow and cooling. I can't wait for my cooler to arrive.


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## X-PREDATOR

? for yo if im ..mm..may..
yo have a d14
h70
now this cooler?

WHY? what do you do with other coolers when pulled out?pm me please


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## zila

I have several rigs and several different types of coolers and I like to test coolers on different setups just to see which one works best in a given situation. I'm just a hardware freak.


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## superchad

X-PREDATOR

ok, makes sense, though i dont know the GPUs airflow out, i try to keep it quiet and low RPM (its a Reference cooler GTX 570)

i have a Antect 120mm Tricool on the HDD cage right now, blows air towards GPU (and pulls air over HDDs and SSD)

you sure that arangement wont pull air in through cracks? how would i check for the pressure?

well, to be simple i HATE date loss

i have this drive arrangement

512GB Samsung 840 Pro, boot drive, programs that need to have fast loading
Dual 2TB WD Caviar Black (One for Data, one for Data Backup)
Dual 500GB WD Caviar Black (from old computer, one is Data, one is Backup of Data)
one 1TB Seagate Baracudda (not hooked up, no where else to store it)

i would rather have functionality vs clean and cool looking

my ultimate setup would be in a different case

10 HDDs (2 Mirrored Arrays of 5 HDDs each, one array for Data, one Array for backup) (4TB Each)
4 to 5 SSDs (Samsung 840 Pros)
Windows 7
Windows 8.1
Programs
Linux
misc data
maybe 8 to 10 (2 SSDs in mirror to protect against possible failures)

and of course a massive NAS, with 20 to 40 HDDs (4TB Each) in 2 to 4 raid mirroring configs


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## X-PREDATOR

ok s..chad..we have very similar tastes for setups.but for mass storage id go for an External raid storage setup or buil a dedicated server or just get 5 to 10 4tb xternal drives..having a cool looking rig isnt that importent i meant COOL as in temps...i promise your not goin to suffer any or sarcrifice any thing by having the top fans both as exhaust..im testing as we speak myself for your and other behalf..
my case doent have dual 200mm support (man Wish it did) but none the less..so far yes cpu temps are down by a degree or two but case temps are up then.i used my temp probe and testsed in the center of case by the gpu and cpu cooler area..this is the most critical part in case airflo as theis is were the air starts making that circling vortex before going the natural route _ HEAT rises_back or top..ive been doing alot of searching not just to help you but bcause of the constant arguement with this other dude in my town..he just had too remove some of his case fans and replace them..overheated..why..ALL POSITIVE PRESSURE fan setup..not a single fan in his setup is set for exhaust..not even a tiny 120mm in the rear..if i stand in front of his case i feel like im in a hot tub...

in the end if your not happy remember you can always change it again..changing fan setup is so quick anyways....

to other dude with d14...man i like your style bro...if you ever come to my neck of the woods look me up..


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## superchad

ok, well that might be for another day, i cant afford that right now, and oh ok lol i thought you mean cool looking, my bad. and ok, maybe ill try it. i guess i could find an old computer and create a cheap storage server, got enough of those, heck i have several old Pentium II and III rackmount servers lol







i still will plan to do at least dual HDDs at the minimum, if i move HDDs exterternal maybe do 3 or 4 and an SSD, though having a server might add more heat to my already hot room







even if it is a ultra low power ARM server.

what case do you have btw? oh wow, yeah you have to have some exahust, but like ive heard, too much exahust will pull in air from somewhere else to make up for the lack of airflow in, wish there was a way to meausre the pressure in the case

i know, it shouldnt be too hard i might even be able to do it without shutting down. what do you think would work better? making the top an exahust or just removing it (so i dont have too much airflow outward)


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## X-PREDATOR

well ok..try this

1st..have only one top 200mm exhaust..just unplugg the other fan..do some benchmarks or just fire up a game..
check temps for low mid and high use hwmonitor.it does it all for ya..ive compared it with coretemp..they are both correct..

then try with two top exhaust fans..rear exhaust and all other spots as intake..front..side ect...remove the hd caddies and extra drives too..tie down any loose cables..
please pm or post me pics of your pc..front..top..side..inside..with panels on and removed..

my case is aerocool xpredator..looks alot like a haf case minus the .better front panel io ports..ive got a few things ongoin..gonna remove hd cage..ect myself to realy benefit from the front 200mm


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## zila

Finally had some free time available to get this cooler installed. It's in the 90's here in Chicago and I have a window open so ambient temps are not favorable for overclocking. I didn't finish cable management. It's getting tight back there.









This is where I stopped for now. I really would like higher cfm fans for the cooler. I don't mind the noise, I need to get that air moving faster through the case.


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## doyll

Could you put a 120 or 140mm fan in three of your 5.25" bays? It would flow air directly to cooler. Unplug the top fan and see what happens... likely no difference and possibly an improvement. TY-143 fans work very well on 14PE. It's what I run. They need a PWM splitter with PSU power because they use 0.6 amp each. Get 3 and use one as rear exhaust so back vent can remove all the heated cooler exhaust out of case. You might find second link in sig of interest.


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## zila

That's a good idea about the 140mm fan in the front 5.25 bay. But it is just too hot in here right now so I'll try that tomorrow. This year has been nutty. Yesterday I was wearing a sweater.............today I'm wishin' I had the A/C turned on.

Edit: I'm gonna take that 120mm off the front of the cooler and just put the stock fans in there stock positions and see if maybe I just jumped the gun a little with that setup.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

what case is yours again?


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## zila

I have the HAF912. I just moved some things around. Got rid of the top 200mm. Not running a top exhaust right now. Didn't have the room for 140mm fan up front but I did however install another 120mm in the 5.25 bay just under the optical drive. I'm running the stock fan config on the Phantek right now. I did notice that with this config the cooler sends quite a bit of air up to the top exhaust. These fans are real quiet but they don't perform as well as I'd like. Doyll, your suggestion on the other fans sounds good. I need about 2500rpm to get the right amount of flow across the cooler and it would really help to get the air moving in the entire case.

Right now I'm running:

Front bottom intake 200mm
Front top intake 120mm
Side intake 120mm
Rear Exhaust 120mm

No top exhaust fans installed at this time. Phantek is handling top exhaust

Now I just have to wait and see what effect this has on load temps. I'll adjust again as need be from there but I really do need better fans for this cooler.


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## X-PREDATOR

why not mod the side panel with a 200mm fan?
can you maybe get an AC in your place..my place has same issue in summers..temps are high.but luckily i got an ac this summer..helps a little plus i dont use any of the systems during daytime..evenings are cooler..

if you want stronger faster airflo replace the front 200mm with dual 120/140mm
might not be as power efficient but does move air faster.or try get a 200mm fan with a 1000+rpm..these newer models that cm includes are ok but from my own few ive had/have..after 20cm of space from the fan itself..they lose a bit/almost all benefit..but on short distance they are great..
i have similar setup with fans on the cooler itself..
120mm on the front
then the two included fans..(first gen)
the highest ive had was close to 60..but under normal room temp days..maxes at 50 under load in gaming..depending on the game..so far FC3 is most cpu intense ive ever played..

either mod the sidepanel for more/bigger fan or get an ac..or just dont use pc when its too hot


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## X-PREDATOR

i had a enforcer..airflo was identical to your haf912 (same case just a few tweaks)
had it for about a month..sold it very veryX1000 quickly..very nice cases..but the temps/airflo is realy bad in it..dont know why..but it was..please ignor my previous post..cant edit..fone browser is sucky..

i replaced my 200mm fans with 120mm front intake..at full tilt ..cm sickleflows.
top two 140/mm exhaust.
rear 120mm.cpu cooler was cm h612p.
in this config airflo was a bit better butttt..temps were still in the high 50+ no matter what..

i would instead of wasting money on fans..get two things
1) buy a ac or decent portable ac..ive got a portable.not the best but its atleast able to keep room at steady 25/30..
2) get a better case with better layout and more airodynamic layout.

hows the dust buildup on that case..i had to literaly clean out the enforcer each time daily when and after used..horrible


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## X-PREDATOR

ok just finished fiddeling few things around..took a old 140mm thermaltake turbo fan and put it in 5.25 bay..2cm away from the front mesh panel..at full tilt it does +-1000rpm..hookd it up to my cases f.controll since i had to convert the molex wire /cut off..to make it into a 2/3pin .its dead quiet..as in even at full rpm..cant hear it..temps max at 49 on cpu and hottest core 50 rest was at 44
gpu at 45(h60 mod)
room temp was taken at 1m away from my desk.22°C ambient.
cpu idles at 25-33 on hottest core.

so the included fans arent to bad.man cant wait myself to get the new fans..so i can have unified look and airflo..

if you realy wana get fans..
go 120 sp x3 on the cooler
and the rest 140mm af from corsair.
but i second doyll on the ty fans..much better


----------



## zila

I took the motherboard out of the case and put it on an open test bench and the results are exactly the same. So that takes the case out of the equation. In my experience my case has great airflow, I think the cooler is being overwhelmed by this processor plus the fact that ambient temps have gone way up isn't helping anything either.

I've knocked down the overclock to 200x20 1.344vcore and all is under control.

Is anyone else here using an FX-8320/8350 chip with one of these air coolers? I'd like to see other results.









Edit: I took the heat sink off to check and see if I applied the thermal paste properly the first time and it looks perfect. Contact patch is excellent. I used the stock paste originally but this time I replaced it with MX-4 and the results are exactly the same.


----------



## doyll

http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=269339
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Doyll, your suggestion on the other fans sounds good. I need about 2500rpm to get the right amount of flow across the cooler and it would really help to get the air moving in the entire case.
> .


Don't air just moving in the case. Want the coolest possible air going into cooler and remove all the heated air coming out of cooler.

Here's an example of what TY-143 at 2500rpm cools like on TRUE Copper, NH-D14 and TRUE Spirit 140 Power compared to 1200rpm. Mind 14PE may or may not respond as well, but it will help.

http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=269339

With 100f (37.8c) I would expect component temps to be 14-18c warmer than in normal 70-74f environment.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

man the more i think about it i wouldn't mind getting TY fans instead..but havnt found a place that sells them separately from the Silver arrow coolers.

i wonder how this turbofan i put in the 5,25 bays would do with the phanteks fans...mmmmmight just try it out tommorow when new fans arrive(hopefully my friends remembers to get them for me)
would a straight 12v 2pin fan like this turbo fan work on the pwm adapter that comes with this cooler?


----------



## zila

TY-143 2500rpm 130cfms................yeah, that's the hot ticket.

The air flow is fine all around my case except around the cpu cooler. The stock fans just don't have that punch to them. The air is moving in and around it but it's got no oooomph to it.

I've got to have those TY-143s.









Edit: Three of those puppies on a pwm splitter would be awesome. That's my next step.


----------



## doyll

Just make sure the exhaust vent out the back is moving as much cfm and cooler is.


----------



## zila

I'm thinking maybe an Ultra Kaze 3K in the rear.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> I'm thinking maybe an Ultra Kaze 3K in the rear.


If you use the same fan in rear as on cooler you can control all of them with same PWM signal on with a PWM splitter having PSU power. Second image is how they are wired. Can run 8-10 PWM fans this way.


----------



## zila

The only draw back would be that my case has only 120mm rear exhaust opening. To really do this right I would need a new case with a 140mm or larger rear exhaust opening and for that kind of expense I would rather just go with a custom water cooling loop.

Edit: I swapped out the cooler over to my FX-8350 rig with the Phanteks Cooler. I'm now on the Formula-Z, FX8350, 1866 G.Skill ram

Front Bottom Intake 200mm fan 110cfm
Front Top Intake 120mm fan 81cfm
Side Intake 120mm fan 81cfm
Rear Exhaust 120mm fan 81cfm
Top Exhaust 200mm fan 110cfm

Lower ambient temps tonight allowed for a little improvement: It's about 15~16°C in here right now.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

do you live in a rented apartment?
cant yo turn on or get a cheap AC unit..man im glad were goin into winter now..room temps are constant below 20°C


----------



## zila

LOL, I own my own home. It's too soon to be creating new bills. I just shut down my furnace after a very long hard winter and I need to catch on those gas bills before I even think about turning on the A/C.









But ambient temps are way down right now anyways. It's about 18°C right now.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

my bad bro..just sounded like your in an apartment..
well i hit success today twice..manage to get windows 8.1 retail ENT
and make a vga adapter ..works great..

well if it was me..id close my eyes and hike up the bill more..i cant stand heat..anything over 30 & and i wana clime mount E..well badluck hit me also..my friend dropped me again with the new fans..getting really ticked at him..just gonna have to tuff it out now..


----------



## Serandur

I just got a PH-TC14PE from Newegg for my 3770K and phantom 410 case and it's caused me no end of grief. In horizontal orientation, one of the fans just barely doesn't fit (and scratched my window) because even my supposedly low-profile Gskill Ares RAM is too high for it to fit in my case and so I switched it to vertical mode, and it covers up my UD3H's single x16 PCI-E slot. Plus it came with so many scratches/chips in it, no manual, and the sticker on the heatsink did not come off easily at all. Anyone have any recommendations of what to do? I've already had to return so many things to Newegg, worth bothering again? Or should I just replace the one fan with a smaller 120mm one? The problem is, I like the look of Phanteks' own 120mm fan as it matches the original, but it's not available in the U.S. for whatever reason.


----------



## xartic1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Serandur*
> 
> I just got a PH-TC14PE from Newegg for my 3770K and phantom 410 case and it's caused me no end of grief. In horizontal orientation, one of the fans just barely doesn't fit (and scratched my window) because even my supposedly low-profile Gskill Ares RAM is too high for it to fit in my case and so I switched it to vertical mode, and it covers up my UD3H's single x16 PCI-E slot. Plus it came with so many scratches/chips in it, no manual, and the sticker on the heatsink did not come off easily at all. Anyone have any recommendations of what to do? I've already had to return so many things to Newegg, worth bothering again? Or should I just replace the one fan with a smaller 120mm one? The problem is, I like the look of Phanteks' own 120mm fan as it matches the original, but it's not available in the U.S. for whatever reason.


Send it back to Newegg. If it came scratched and missing items, don't let yourself fall victim to second hand product sold as new.

Have you tried putting a fan on the rear and middle while leaving the front open for your ram to have clearance?


----------



## Serandur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xartic1*
> 
> Send it back to Newegg. If it came scratched and missing items, don't let yourself fall victim to second hand product sold as new.
> 
> Have you tried putting a fan on the rear and middle while leaving the front open for your ram to have clearance?


I haven't tried put the fan on the rear yet, but I have tried in both orientations with only the middle fan and it fits then. Just eyeballing it, I'm not sure there's enough space even to fit a fan on the rear, at least not in its vertical orientation.


----------



## doyll

Sorry to hear you are having problems.









Newegg seems to have a reputation for problems like this.

It appears you do not have enough CPU clearance in Phantom 410
32mm is how tall G.Skill Ares is
2-3mm for RAM socket and
140mm for fan is a total of
175mm minus
8mm from motherboard to top of CPU gives us
167mm CPU clearance.

What does NZXT claim the CPU clearance is?


----------



## Serandur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry to hear you are having problems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Newegg seems to have a reputation for problems like this.
> 
> It appears you do not have enough CPU clearance in Phantom 410
> 32mm is how tall G.Skill Ares is
> 2-3mm for RAM socket and
> 140mm for fan is a total of
> 175mm minus
> 8mm from motherboard to top of CPU gives us
> 167mm CPU clearance.
> 
> What does NZXT claim the CPU clearance is?


NZXT claim the Phantom 410 has 170mm clearance and I can get it to just barely fit. but I noticed a noise caused by the front fan vibrating against the window, took it off and saw the scuff/scratch marks. It's very close, another 2-3 mm would probably make for a perfect fit and this is the fourth unsatisfactory item (regarding its condition) I have received from Newegg in the past month or so. I'm thinking it might be a better idea for me to get an H100i, but the noise of that thing...


----------



## doyll

You can put the fans in pull / pull instead of push / push as they are now...
or...
Go to your local hardware store and get some cabinet door and drawer bumpers
like the one upper right of first image.. or standard one in second image.
 

And put a couple on the highest points on the fan where it touches the window. This should both stop the scratching and quiet things down.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

1-return it and ask for refund.
2- buy same cooler from a better dealer or ask som1 here whos close to you to help you find one
3- return your 410 and get a bigger phantom case...but it does seem weird..there have beem a few with same cases as you with no error installing it...

sorry to hear too your having issues...


----------



## Serandur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You can put the fans in pull / pull instead of push / push as they are now...
> or...
> Go to your local hardware store and get some cabinet door and drawer bumpers
> like the one upper right of first image.. or standard one in second image.
> 
> 
> And put a couple on the highest points on the fan where it touches the window. This should both stop the scratching and quiet things down.


I tried putting some thin rubber strips to see if they helped and I couldn't even get the panel on like that, so I'm not sure those bumpers will work. Is the performance with pull-pull any weaker versus push-push? I'll try to see if I can get that to work tomorrow...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> 1-return it and ask for refund.
> 2- buy same cooler from a better dealer or ask som1 here whos close to you to help you find one
> 3- return your 410 and get a bigger phantom case...but it does seem weird..there have beem a few with same cases as you with no error installing it...
> 
> sorry to hear too your having issues...


...and if it works, I'm returning the cooler and buying another one. The only problem is Newegg, by far, offer the best price on the things in the U.S and free two-day shipping for me. Replacing the 410 is out of the question however. I love the case too much and if it were any larger, it would be a bit too difficult for me to carry around, plus I'd lose quite a bit of money on it.

I was surprised it had trouble fitting too, all accounts online told me it would be no problem, and my RAM isn't particularly tall. Maybe it's just something specific to my motherboard, either it's thicker than most or has its RAM slots raised a bit. Hopefully I can manage pull-pull though. Not being as cool-looking is probably the biggest downside of that.

I'm going to try requesting a replacement panel from NZXT for the scratches, and then maybe use the old one as a modding guinea pig.


----------



## doyll

Pull / pull will be fine. Most see no difference in temps.. at most there is no more than 1cdifference in cooling.


----------



## iwalkwithedead

I just noticed the owner of this group hasn't been on in a while.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

who is the owner anyhows?

can the 410's window panel be removed?
if so..do it and instead of it being on the inside of the sidepanel..put it back on from outside of the panel..gives you atleast a xtra
1 - 5mm space to play with to the side..
i realised this by looking at my setups..
my predator cases wimdow panel is bout 1-5mm thick..but its mounted on the outside of the panel..if this wasnt so i wouldnt have 30mm of clearence..it would be less..
i did this to my scout case..works like a charm ..

ive got a ?..but it irrelevant to this thread..what will cause a pc case side panel and the exact same thumb screws ( for 3yrs) to suddenly short out the pc? but if i remove the screws its all fine?


----------



## Serandur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Pull / pull will be fine. Most see no difference in temps.. at most there is no more than 1cdifference in cooling.


So, even the middle fan, though fitting comfortably, sometimes produces a very light humming against the window and is still a bit too close for comfort for me. I've decided I want to stick with this model (after I return the used one Newegg sent me), but I want to replace the fans with smaller 120mm fans so they fit properly. I had the Corsair SP120, Noiseblocker XL2/PL2/M12-S2, and the Scythe Gentle Typhoon in mind, but I could always use a second opinion. I'm looking for strong performance and for them to be preferably quiet, but not at the cost of performance. They must be 120mm for space considerations and a nice black and white color scheme is preferred. I do wish, more than the other choices and for purely aesthetic reasons, Phanteks sold their own 120mm fans in the U.S., but they're not available here it seems.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Serandur*
> 
> So, even the middle fan, though fitting comfortably, sometimes produces a very light humming against the window and is still a bit too close for comfort for me. I've decided I want to stick with this model (after I return the used one Newegg sent me), but I want to replace the fans with smaller 120mm fans so they fit properly. I had the Corsair SP120, Noiseblocker XL2/PL2/M12-S2, and the Scythe Gentle Typhoon in mind, but I could always use a second opinion. I'm looking for strong performance and for them to be preferably quiet, but not at the cost of performance. They must be 120mm for space considerations.


Can't you move the middle fan down a little? You can remove the thumb screw that holds crossbar onto cooler completely or use a one a normal philips screw to replace it. It is only there to make mounting cooler easier. I've done this on mine.

All new TC14PE coolers have F140HP PWM fans. Just make sure the replacement is a new one. The originals had F140TS fans. About a year ago they changed to F140HP fans that were not PWM and than a few months later to F140HP PWM fans. I make it very clear to whoever I buy from that the new model with the PWM fans is product wanted, not the older ones using PWM adapter.


----------



## Serandur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Can't you move the middle fan down a little? You can remove the thumb screw that holds crossbar onto cooler completely or use a one a normal philips screw to replace it. It is only there to make mounting cooler easier. I've done this on mine.












I didn't think of that, should solve my problem completely. I'll dig around for a replacement screw when I get home.


----------



## Serandur

Never mind, I'm an idiot. I know what's wrong. Thank you for the help.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Serandur*
> 
> Never mind, I'm an idiot. I know what's wrong. Thank you for the help.


You originally posted







Quote:


> Well, it fits like this, but both my idle and load temperatures at stock are about 5C higher now (with the pull-pull method and adjusted fan height). It's clearly not cooling as well as it did before. :/ Would adding just one 120mm fan to the front in a push orientation help at all?


Now come on. What did you do.


----------



## iwalkwithedead

AMD_Freak is the owner


----------



## Serandur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You originally posted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now come on. What did you do.


I made the mistake of thinking you wouldn't see the unedited post.









I put the fans in the wrong orientation; push-push back into the case and in conflict with my rear case fan. I have one more question. I actually don't know if my cooler really was used or not and I don't want to go through the hassle of returning it, but I'm worried the various scratches and chips in the part that makes contact with my CPU's heatspreader might be reducing cooling efficiency. Do you think so?


----------



## doyll

LOL. That was what I guessed.









Is it cooling as expected? Do you think so?


----------



## Serandur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> LOL. That was what I guessed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it cooling as expected? Do you think so?


No idea really, my 3770K was a bit abnormally hot to begin with. Unless I delid, even now my chip hits close to or above 90C in IBT at 4.5 GHZ and ~1.29v. The cooler's own capabilities are certainly being limited by Intel's ham-brained sub-IHS thermal solution. I can't tell if it's doing it's job properly or not and is it normal to have such defects (scratches and marks) on a new cooler? Can't recall much cheaper coolers being so flawed, how can it happen to the number one premium air cooler?


----------



## doyll

I suggest contacting Phanteks for a replacement instead of going through Newegg. Newegg has sent out several black 14PE coolers to members here missing parts, damaged base, scratched finish etc. Make me wonder if they haven't sent same out out more than once.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i agree with D..
contact phanteks support..they are very helpfull and takes a day to reply..in the beginning with others havin issues i pm one of their reps and emailed their support..a few others did also..so they are very aware of these misfortunate coolers..problem is that once it leaves the production fasility..it can be or get damaged from people tampering with the goods..

i still want too see a shootout of the phanteks and the cryorg..hi Doyll..were can i buy those..i just had a look at the TY fans again as me and my buddy is goin to shop for fans ect..those 143's are monsters above 7v..

to the op...if silence and performence is your aim..go for noctuas..cougar vortex pwm..sp120s but be sure to ge pwm adapters or fancontroller..makes it more cinvenient to control fans..
noiseblockers are not silent..i just watched a clip..and they are not quiet fans in my
opinion...


----------



## openuser

Hi guys,

My first post here at overclock net









I just wanted to share my experience with PH-TC14PE and Corsair Vengeance Pro combination because I couldn't find a clear "Yes, this cooler has enough room to fit the RAM" answer on the net.

So short story is that the cooler has enough room under the fin to accomodate Corsair Vengeance Pro with some room to spare. The 140mm fan needs to be moved up quite a lot, and it required a case that can fit 180mm CPU cooler. My case Thermaltake V71 has enough room to fit the cooler and the fan mounted over the RAM modules.

So, my build information relevant on this post is the following:
- Asus Maximus VI Hero
- Phanteks PH-TC14PE CPU cooler (Red)
- 4x Corsair Vengeance Pro
- EVGA GTX 780 Ti
- Thermaltake Core V71 Case





Side note: I did notice pretty big dent (1mm long, 0.5mm thick - eyeballing) off-center on the base.. It seems it's a common problem with this cooler. My temps at Idle (stock 4770k) hovers around 31-34 degrees C in pretty warm room (close to 28 degrees ambient temp) and maximum core temp reaches 69-70 degrees (with ~850 RPM fan speed) under prime 95. Measurements made with HWMonitor.

Cheers!


----------



## doyll

Thanks Openuser!








Welcome to our group.
Temps sound pretty good.
Second link in sig might be of interest.


----------



## openuser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks Openuser!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome to our group.
> Temps sound pretty good.
> Second link in sig might be of interest.


Thanks for the suggestion, Doyll! I've actually read few of your articles before







They are very helpful!


----------



## X-PREDATOR

very good temps for a haswell chip and welkomen byden club.
magt iet 'n wonderliken tyd het hier


----------



## BKinn

Doing a bit of a refresh on my current build...I can't wait for the Node 804 to come out so I can try to squeeze my PH-TC14PE in it! Newegg seems to have the case in stock but I'd prefer Amazon since I already have prime. The case reports a max height for coolers of 160mm which is the exact height of my cooler without the fans. I am thinking that I will replace the Phanteks fans with Noctua F12's. I'll post my refresh with the cooler in the case hopefully next week.

I've been away for awhile but you guys might remember me from when I powder coated and painted my components. Here is my current build that will be transplanted:



Here's my speccy as well for temps (CPU boost at 4.5Ghz, I also had a 4GB stick of RAM die):


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BKinn*
> 
> Doing a bit of a refresh on my current build...I can't wait for the Node 804 to come out so I can try to squeeze my PH-TC14PE in it! Newegg seems to have the case in stock but I'd prefer Amazon since I already have prime. The case reports a max height for coolers of 160mm which is the exact height of my cooler without the fans. I am thinking that I will replace the Phanteks fans with Noctua F12's. I'll post my refresh with the cooler in the case hopefully next week.
> 
> I've been away for awhile but you guys might remember me from when I powder coated and painted my components. Here is my current build that will be transplanted:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my speccy as well for temps (CPU boost at 4.5Ghz, I also had a 4GB stick of RAM die):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a really nice looking build. I like the color coordination. I have the blue PH-TC14PE but really wish I had a black one.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BKinn*
> 
> Doing a bit of a refresh on my current build...I can't wait for the Node 804 to come out so I can try to squeeze my PH-TC14PE in it! Newegg seems to have the case in stock but I'd prefer Amazon since I already have prime. The case reports a max height for coolers of 160mm which is the exact height of my cooler without the fans. I am thinking that I will replace the Phanteks fans with Noctua F12's. I'll post my refresh with the cooler in the case hopefully next week.
> 
> I've been away for awhile but you guys might remember me from when I powder coated and painted my components. Here is my current build that will be transplanted:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my speccy as well for temps (CPU boost at 4.5Ghz, I also had a 4GB stick of RAM die):


It is a beautiful build but forgive me I don't remember much about it. Is there a build log? Did you powder coat the cooler too?

Edit:
How are you going to use the Sabertooth Z77 ATX in a M-ATX case?


----------



## BKinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> That's a really nice looking build. I like the color coordination. I have the blue PH-TC14PE but really wish I had a black one.


Thank you, I thought for a long time before I bought the black one while back. Thankfully it was before anyone in here had reported the crinkle problems.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> It is a beautiful build but forgive me I don't remember much about it. Is there a build log? Did you powder coat the cooler too?
> 
> Edit:
> How are you going to use the Sabertooth Z77 ATX in a M-ATX case?


Thanks! Unfortunately, no build log for this one. I will probably do one with the Node 804 when it arrives. The cooler was the black version, I painted the fans (poorly, they need another coat). The expansion covers and the HDD trays were powder coated. I also had the heatsinks of a different motherboard powder coated but I no longer use that board.

In regards to the motherboard question, I picked up a Maximus V Gene on eBay last week! I'm excited to try it out. My only complaint so far is the red, I wish it was all black so it would match my black and gold.

Maybe if I upgrade to the 9 series I will get one of Asus' new gold motherboards. I'm on the fence though because my 3770K is a really good overclocker. If the rumored 4790K can hit 5ghz, I will probably be upgrading.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

look into the new msi boards too..theyve got some nice matx & m.itx all black boards..the new asus boards do look sexy..
i remember your gold theme..its still very atractive theme...
if any 1 can get hold of phantek support..lemme know..i need rma fan replacement pronto..my ph fans sound like this

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=J6V38p9dGSs&ctp=CAIQpDAYACITCLu7nZ_-r74CFYeHGAodhpgAn1IUcGhhbnRla3MgZmFuIHByb2JsZW0%3D&gl=ZA&hl=en&guid=&client=mv-google

not my setup on that clip..but my fans were still new and just started using them
a short while ago..still have 3/5 yrs left on warrenty..so what gives..hey Doyllan..were can i get those cryorg fans? they look almost like TY silent X fans.


----------



## Walder

Does any1 have one of these in a asus z87 (or equal size between cpu - ram) mobo that could take a pic without fans from the front? Because i have some avexir rams with led and i dont want the cooler that i get to cover them. I would be very thankful.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

it doesnt matter what type of board you get..this cooler will always ..i repeat
Always cover up the ram slots..with or without fans..120/140mm..

if your after looks get a watercooler..but your setup justice then..h220 or 220X at
minimum..sorry if i seem negative..just that its been asked before


----------



## Walder

Yeah no problem, thanks for being direct, so i will avoid this. T hing is ive been waiting for h220x for 2 months, and last week it got delayed again! Really getting tired of it, guess ill go with an Archon x2.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

ive got a gd80 and even with a 120mm on the front of the cooler..i can only see one stick of my vengeance kit...


----------



## X-PREDATOR

well..i know personaly that a tpc812 can do the job too..ive oced a 3570k on a clients pc with it..max load temps never went past 65..and his system was on 24/7 gaming and rendering.had a designer business..so it was working hard..

well if im you get a cheap heatsink now..hyper 212 and then wait it out for the 220X..you wont regret it..theyv done a bit of tweaks from what ive heard on other forums..so be patient


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walder*
> 
> Does any1 have one of these in a asus z87 (or equal size between cpu - ram) mobo that could take a pic without fans from the front? Because i have some avexir rams with led and i dont want the cooler that i get to cover them. I would be very thankful.


It's not just how far from CPU but how tall the RAM is.
Center of CPU to front of cooler is 72mm
Motherboard to bottom fin is 50mm

What case do you have?


----------



## cmdub

anything im missing here? fractal design define r4 case btw


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmdub*
> 
> anything im missing here? fractal design define r4 case btw


What are your front intake fans now?
FYI:
Thermalright tY-14x fans are all 152x140x26.5mm You can fit on in bottom as intake but front would need to be modified to fit.


----------



## cmdub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What are your front intake fans now?
> FYI:
> Thermalright tY-14x fans are all 152x140x26.5mm You can fit on in bottom as intake but front would need to be modified to fit.


was going to use the
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What are your front intake fans now?
> FYI:
> Thermalright tY-14x fans are all 152x140x26.5mm You can fit on in bottom as intake but front would need to be modified to fit.


Using two of the 140s for the two front intake slots and the 3rd one for the bottom intake slot. the 2 143s will go on the cooler and the 3rd will be the rear exhaust so that air moves in and out evenly as u so frequently point out


----------



## X-PREDATOR

can any 1 tell me were i can easily buy TY14..series fans..so far ending up empty handed in SA..i must buy a SArrow ..is what im told each time..


----------



## openuser

Has anyone tried using Noctua NF-P14 with PH-TC14PE? Any issues with anti-vibration strips and such?

http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=90&lng=en very tempting...


----------



## cmdub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> can any 1 tell me were i can easily buy TY14..series fans..so far ending up empty handed in SA..i must buy a SArrow ..is what im told each time..


see if frozencpu will ship there


----------



## sweenytodd

Can I join the club guys? I just got this and I came from Corsair H80i. What a difference in noise and cooling performance.







By the way I have a problem with these (PH-F140HP) fans. I can't control their PWM in my Asus Maximus VI Hero motherboard. Tried both ways ,4 pin PWM splitter + 2 fans to CPU_FAN header and fan each header (CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT). I still get CPU_FAN error and constantly running at 600 RPM regardless of the temp, the lowest speed. Do we have a solution for this? Thanks.


----------



## doyll

Hi sweenytodd and welcome.
I'm assuming your F140HP fans are 4-pin PWM fans? If not please let us know.
Here are a link to Hero PWM fan control problem. Hope it helps
http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?36111-Maximus-VI-Hero-fan-control-alternative


----------



## openuser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> Can I join the club guys? I just got this and I came from Corsair H80i. What a difference in noise and cooling performance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way I have a problem with these (PH-F140HP) fans. I can't control their PWM in my Asus Maximus VI Hero motherboard. Tried both ways ,4 pin PWM splitter + 2 fans to CPU_FAN header and fan each header (CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT). I still get CPU_FAN error and constantly running at 600 RPM regardless of the temp, the lowest speed. Do we have a solution for this? Thanks.


Hi, I have the same setup and I have no problem with the fans and pwm functionality. I have my fans connected to cpu and cpu_opt. Did you set the fan speed alert from 600 to 400 rpm? And also set the q-fan control for the cpu fans to auto.

If you have ai suite installed, check your fanXpert settings for your cpu fans. You might have to run fan calibration in this software.


----------



## zila

I just went to 3 PH-F140HP fans. This is a very nice looking cooler. I think what I'm going to do is use this on my Phenom II X4 965BE. This thing looks tough.







It fit just fine in the HAF912 with my G.Skill Ripjaws X. The front fan is sitting right on the last stick but it's just fine. I just love the way this thing looks.


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Hi sweenytodd and welcome.
> I'm assuming your F140HP fans are 4-pin PWM fans? If not please let us know.
> Here are a link to Hero PWM fan control problem. Hope it helps
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?36111-Maximus-VI-Hero-fan-control-alternative


Yes they are PWM, got the most recent revision of the cooler. Thanks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *openuser*
> 
> Hi, I have the same setup and I have no problem with the fans and pwm functionality. I have my fans connected to cpu and cpu_opt. Did you set the fan speed alert from 600 to 400 rpm? And also set the q-fan control for the cpu fans to auto.
> 
> If you have ai suite installed, check your fanXpert settings for your cpu fans. You might have to run fan calibration in this software.


I followed this settings, thanks.

Actually the fans only goes 1200 RPM when cpu temps are 80C+ when I tried AIDA64 FPU stress test. PWM actually works with these fans, my bad. But I would like them to spin at least 1000 RPM when it reaches 60C+, that when I'm gaming. I also couldn't control the fan curve settings in my Fan Xpert 2.


----------



## openuser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> Can I join the club guys? I just got this and I came from Corsair H80i. What a difference in noise and cooling performance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way I have a problem with these (PH-F140HP) fans. I can't control their PWM in my Asus Maximus VI Hero motherboard. Tried both ways ,4 pin PWM splitter + 2 fans to CPU_FAN header and fan each header (CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT). I still get CPU_FAN error and constantly running at 600 RPM regardless of the temp, the lowest speed. Do we have a solution for this? Thanks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> Yes they are PWM, got the most recent revision of the cooler. Thanks.
> I followed this settings, thanks.
> 
> Actually the fans only goes 1200 RPM when cpu temps are 80C+ when I tried AIDA64 FPU stress test. PWM actually works with these fans, my bad. But I would like them to spin at least 1000 RPM when it reaches 60C+, that when I'm gaming. I also couldn't control the fan curve settings in my Fan Xpert 2.


Hi, did you try running Fan Tuning ?


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *openuser*
> 
> Hi, did you try running Fan Tuning ?


Oh my, I did that and now it works, I can now set the fan curve. Thanks man you saved me a lot of time.


----------



## openuser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> Oh my, I did that and now it works, I can now set the fan curve. Thanks man you saved me a lot of time.


Glad it worked


----------



## doyll

Thanks openuser. I was hoping someone with knowledge of Fan Xpert would help out.


----------



## openuser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks openuser. I was hoping someone with knowledge of Fan Xpert would help out.










anytime


----------



## sweenytodd

By the way, does anyone who had delidded their Ivy Bridge or Haswell chips with this air cooler? Let me know guys, thanks.


----------



## doyll

What are your temps like now?


----------



## sweenytodd

68-70C max. 1.3 Vcore at ~20C ambient temps. I started overclocking again 5 days ago and I'm aiming for 24-hour stable one. What do you think?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 68-70C max. 1.3 Vcore at ~20C ambient temps. I started overclocking again 5 days ago and I'm aiming for 24-hour stable one. What do you think?


Those temps are pretty good. With HT on at the same Vcore I'm about 10C hotter than you are (on the hottest core), and it's said that HT on adds about 8-12C to temps.


----------



## Marshock

Here is a Phanteks PH-TC14PE in a Thermaltake Element V with the additional side cooler:



And here are the temperature readings with Core i5 3570K stock at idle process with fans working 900 RPM in different room conditions (summer and winter):

ROOM: 24

CPU: 31
MB: 27
VGA: 28
HDD: 32
SSD: 24

ROOM: 21

CPU: 29
MB: 23
VGA: 24
HDD: 27
SSD: 20

ROOM: 15

CPU: 22
MB: 15
VGA: 16
HDD: 20
SSD: 12

ROOM: 8

CPU: 17
MB: 11
VGA: 13
HDD: 17
SSD: 8
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvspace126*
> 
> I'm running with stock fans, but I plan to change that soon


Why would you do that? The stock fans are awesome, i can not hear them at 900 rpm and i am getting perfect temperatures.


----------



## BKinn

Here is a quick photo of my PH-TC14PE now that it is in my Node 804. The case says it only fits coolers 160mm or less but I fit this just fine even with the fans. It might not fit oriented the other direction though, not sure.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

that looks so sexy..can this case be turned on it side so the cooler looks like its standing upright?
man how did you fit it all in there


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Ok im to lazy to search..has any1 used bitfenix spectre or the pro versions?
They r cheaper and easier to get a.t.m..


----------



## mam72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> Ok im to lazy to search..has any1 used bitfenix spectre or the pro versions?
> They r cheaper and easier to get a.t.m..


They are not good fans for heat-sinks and case fans. I could go as far as to say they are useless.

As for other LED alternatives try a Aeroshark fan.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

thanks..few..almost bit the monk on this one...
well im tryin to move away from bling..led fans..as im goin to make some case changes..add psu cover..wich will do the pop bling for me then..but eish..even a simple thing like fans are near 200 a pop..and thats too much for me..and i need like 10 new fans.i just had too ditch another one a week or so ago
how would those aerocool fans do on this hs specificaly..
ive now emaild phanteks support again for fan rma..no luck so far..

hows every 1 been doin here..seems very quiet..


----------



## mam72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> thanks..few..almost bit the monk on this one...
> well im tryin to move away from bling..led fans..as im goin to make some case changes..add psu cover..wich will do the pop bling for me then..but eish..even a simple thing like fans are near 200 a pop..and thats too much for me..and i need like 10 new fans.i just had too ditch another one a week or so ago
> how would those aerocool fans do on this hs specificaly..
> ive now emaild phanteks support again for fan rma..no luck so far..
> 
> hows every 1 been doin here..seems very quiet..


Try some cheap fans like the termalright ty-14x series, all those fans are great on heatsinks, Gelid Silent 12 or 14 are cheap too. Yate Loons or Nexus Basics 12 (Yate Loon Prime







) maybe


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mam72*
> 
> Try some cheap fans like the termalright ty-14x series, all those fans are great on heatsinks, Gelid Silent 12 or 14 are cheap too. Yate Loons or Nexus Basics 12 (Yate Loon Prime
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) maybe


CHEAP FANS!!








They are not cheap fans!








They are high quality fans that don't cost an arm and a leg.


----------



## mam72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> CHEAP FANS!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are not cheap fans!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are high quality fans that don't cost an arm and a leg.


Well I go with the idea that cheap doesn't mean crappy quality


----------



## doyll

Naah! Cheap is cheap. Inexpensive is different.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

well i cant get the ty fans..ive tried already..and importing is outa the ?..itll cost me more than the fans itself..which is big no no..
im aiming to ditch the 120mm fans in my setup..so can go all unified 140mm..
only decent 120mm fans worth wile i can get if i was rich..is noctuas..sp120's..cm blademasters..but im not payin 200bucks a pop for 100buck stuff..

oh choices are slim..a year ago..it was very easy to get any type of fan..now..not so much..
my real dream is to be able to get cougar vortec 140mm pwm fans..the black ones are so awsome..
hey D..hows it hanging?


----------



## firefoxx04

These are $10 on newegg right now, about $20 on amazon. Does that sound right? Newegg says they are $5 off for limited time. I might scoop up 3-6 of them if you guys think its a good deal to buy. I wont be able to use them right away but I do have the Enthroo Pro case coming in so these fans would work nicely once I get a rad that takes 140mm fans.

Newegg $10

Amazon


----------



## doyll

Depending on application you might want to get the PH-F140XP for $12.99.. It's PWM.








http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709022&cm_re=f140xp-_-35-709-022-_-Product


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> These are $10 on newegg right now, about $20 on amazon. Does that sound right? Newegg says they are $5 off for limited time. I might scoop up 3-6 of them if you guys think its a good deal to buy. I wont be able to use them right away but I do have the Enthroo Pro case coming in so these fans would work nicely once I get a rad that takes 140mm fans.
> 
> Newegg $10
> 
> Amazon


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Depending on application you might want to get the PH-F140XP for $12.99.. It's PWM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709022&cm_re=f140xp-_-35-709-022-_-Product


I will be using the Enthroo pro with their fan controller most likely. I dont think I would benefit from the PWM models considering the controller can control 3pin fans as pwm. Both fans I posted were the 3pin model but the newegg link is almost half the price.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> I will be using the Enthroo pro with their fan controller most likely. I dont think I would benefit from the PWM models considering the controller can control 3pin fans as pwm. Both fans I posted were the 3pin model but the newegg link is almost half the price.


With Phanteks PWM fan hub to 3-pin fans the PH-F140SP will be fine. Keep in mind you will be using CPU fan header to get PWM signal. I have only heard of one motherboard that had a PWM fan header that was not CPU fan.


----------



## firefoxx04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> With Phanteks PWM fan hub to 3-pin fans the PH-F140SP will be fine. Keep in mind you will be using CPU fan header to get PWM signal. I have only heard of one motherboard that had a PWM fan header that was not CPU fan.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> These are $10 on newegg right now, about $20 on amazon. Does that sound right? Newegg says they are $5 off for limited time. I might scoop up 3-6 of them if you guys think its a good deal to buy. I wont be able to use them right away but I do have the Enthroo Pro case coming in so these fans would work nicely once I get a rad that takes 140mm fans.
> 
> Newegg $10
> 
> Amazon


Currect. I've read all the controversy with people not understanding that it needs a true pwm output to control it (cpu header)

So it sounds like they are a good deal for $10. If I like the one in my case (arrives tomorrow) I might scoop up 3-6 of them for a tripple 140 rad.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefoxx04*
> 
> Currect. I've read all the controversy with people not understanding that it needs a true pwm output to control it (cpu header)
> 
> So it sounds like they are a good deal for $10. If I like the one in my case (arrives tomorrow) I might scoop up 3-6 of them for a tripple 140 rad.


I've got 9 (3 led & 6 regular) running on PWM hub in my Enthoo Pro.


----------



## firefoxx04

Nice! What minimum RPM can the controller set them to?

I dont need dead silence but I do need something quieter than what I have now.


----------



## MarvinDessica

Been trying to get a definitive answer. Can this thing fit in a Corsair 350D?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica*
> 
> Been trying to get a definitive answer. Can this thing fit in a Corsair 350D?


Phanteks spec is 171mm with fans /160mm without fans, and fans can be lowered to be flush with top of cooler. Problem is with fans flush with top of cooler, RAM mush be no taller than 25mm (28mm from motherboard to top of RAM). I replaced thumb screw securing crossbar on cooler with a shorter screw, but don't know if it was necessary. Have it in a Fractal Design Define R2 with a spec of 165mm no problems. other than fan is touching RAM and just but clears side panel with 30mm RAM. By just clears I mean the sidepanel has no flex.. Push on side panel and it touches fan. It should fit, but I not having a 350D to fit PH-TC14PE in it's only my option.. Sorry, that's the best I can do.

Others have put NZXT Hawk in 350D NZXT Hawk 140 and it is 166mm tall
http://www.overclock.net/t/1401102/corsair-350d-owners-club/300_20#post_20379371

KitGuru says.
Quote:


> We measured the maximum clearance as 165mm, meaning that the market's highest performance air coolers in the Noctua NH-D14 and Phanteks PH-TC14PE can fit inside the 350D without interference.


http://www.kitguru.net/components/cases/luke-hill/corsair-obsidian-350d-windowed-edition-case-review/5/

I have PH-TC14PE in Define R2 with spec saying
Quote:


> CPU coolers with height of maximum circa 165mm


http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/discontinued-products/define-r2-black-pearl


----------



## X-PREDATOR

use 120mm fans on front..140mm in middle..works great together..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> use 120mm fans on front..140mm in middle..works great together..


2 fans on front!















Can use fans in pull / pull instead of usual push / push configuration.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

that too..theres lots of ways...just depends on what that person wants..cooling perf or looks/silence etc..me..i like a 120mm on the front..140mm in center..works ok for best of both worlds..pull pull is cool too..even a powerfull single center 140mm will do the job..just make sure the case has decent airflo


----------



## spenceaj

if anyone who has added a fan to their phanteks ph-tc14pe
i am getting http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZZE63A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER and adding http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZM315O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER to it for a 3rd fan. does anyone know if it comes with mounting brackets for a 3rd fan or where i can get them?


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spenceaj*
> 
> if anyone who has added a fan to their phanteks ph-tc14pe
> i am getting http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZZE63A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER and adding http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZM315O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER to it for a 3rd fan. does anyone know if it comes with mounting brackets for a 3rd fan or where i can get them?


Yes it does come with the 3rd pair of mounting clips and anti vibration pads.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spenceaj*
> 
> if anyone who has added a fan to their phanteks ph-tc14pe
> i am getting http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZZE63A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER and adding http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZM315O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER to it for a 3rd fan. does anyone know if it comes with mounting brackets for a 3rd fan or where i can get them?


I suggest before you buy the cooler or the fan you contact supplier and make sure the *fans are really PWM* and not adapter controlled.
There are two different PH-F140HP fans the first ones made are not PWM, but the second ones are. They look identical except fan lead on one has a 3-pin plug and other has a 4-pin plug.

Last point at bottom line of discription says F140XP
Quote:


> PH-F140XP's PWM functions allow users to adjust speed from 600 - 1200 RPM. Higher speed for performance and lower for silent operation.


Farther down it says
Quote:


> PH-F140HP fans with PWM functions


Never says PWM fan.. only "PWM functions"... not the same.

Cooler's first description, 3rd point says
Quote:


> Phanteks
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> PH-F140 premium 140mm fans with PWM adaptor
> 
> 
> 
> ,
Click to expand...

Than is not a PWM fan, but a fan using a PWM adapter!!

Even now Phanteks website does not differentiate:

Cooler description says:
Quote:


> Fan Model: PH-F140 Premium Fan with PWM Adapter.
> 2x PH-F140 Premium Fan
> 1x PWM External Adaptor


PH-F140HP says:
Quote:


> Speed Settings by PWM Adapter
> PH-F140HP's PWM functions allow users to adjust speed from 600 - 1300 RPM.


The only way to know if it really is PWM is to look at the fan lead plug.


----------



## xartic1

The PH-F140XP is most definitely a PWM controlled fan. I use my z87 g45 MSI control center and have Each one controlled individually (4) on my h110 radiator on one of my builds.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xartic1*
> 
> The PH-F140XP is most definitely a PWM controlled fan. I use my z87 g45 MSI control center and have Each one controlled individually (4) on my h110 radiator on one of my builds.


Bully for you mate!








PH-F140XP is definitely PWM and a darn good fan too!

But you need to read the post completely and not take things out of context.








What I was pointing out was the fact that Amazon's description was incorrect as PH-TC14PE does not use PH-F140XP fans, but PH-F140SP fans.

PH-F140XP will not fit on a PH-TC14PE cooler. PH-TC14PE originally came with PH-F140TS and now with PH-F140HP fans.. both have 120mm mounting pattern. The fan clips supplied are form 120mm mounting pattern used on PH-F140TS and PH-F140hp fans, not the 140mm mounting pattern on PH-F140XP.


----------



## xartic1

There's the two stock fans on the outside, and the xp 140 on the inside. It took about 10 minutes to get the extra tabs and clips in place, considering the mounting on the xp isn't made for the heatsink but it has been holding up on a 8350 fx for a few months.


----------



## sweenytodd

Indeed mine came with the PWM capabilities. PH-F140HP with 4pins each plugged in Cpu_fan and cpu_opt headers.. Bought it not too long ago from Newegg. I can tell there are three revisions with this cooler. Make sure you get the latest one.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xartic1*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1968773/width/500/height/1000[/IMG][/SPOILER]
> 
> There's the two stock fans on the outside, and the xp 140 on the inside. It took about 10 minutes to get the extra tabs and clips in place, considering the mounting on the xp isn't made for the heatsink but it has been holding up on a 8350 fx for a few months.


We can modify and make most anything fit / work. I don't care if you mounted NF-A150 PWM fans on your cooler.

I'm trying to help cooler buyers understand that the PH-F140 fans supplied with PH-TC14PE are a very confusing issue... and all you are doing is confusing the issue being addressed;

*That not all PH-F140HP fans are PWM fan.*

There have been 2 different fan model numbers / names of fans sold with 14PE; the PH-F140TS and the PH-F140HP.. and the *PH-F140HP model number has been used on 2 different fans, one a non-PWM fan and the other a PWM fan.*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> Indeed mine came with the PWM capabilities. PH-F140HP with 4pins each plugged in Cpu_fan and cpu_opt headers.. Bought it not too long ago from Newegg. I can tell there are three revisions with this cooler. Make sure you get the latest one.


Exactly my point the new manufactured PH-TC14PE are supplied with PWM fans.. but not all colors of coolers are new enough to have the PWM fans.


----------



## spenceaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> We can modify and make most anything fit / work. I don't care if you mounted NF-A150 PWM fans on your cooler.
> 
> I'm trying to help cooler buyers understand that the PH-F140 fans supplied with PH-TC14PE are a very confusing issue... and all you are doing is confusing the issue being addressed;
> 
> *That not all PH-F140HP fans are PWM fan.*
> 
> There have been 2 different fan model numbers / names of fans sold with 14PE; the PH-F140TS and the PH-F140HP.. and the *PH-F140HP model number has been used on 2 different fans, one a non-PWM fan and the other a PWM fan.*
> Exactly my point the new manufactured PH-TC14PE are supplied with PWM fans.. but not all colors of coolers are new enough to have the PWM fans.


are the PWM fans 4 pin connectors?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spenceaj*
> 
> are the PWM fans 4 pin connectors?


Indeed !








This is a PWM fan plug


Here's 2-pin power, 3-pin power & rpm, & 4-pin power, rpm & PWM leads

Notice only the 1st two pins are used in first one. . and the wire colors mean nothing.

Fan pin-out is:


----------



## LGxStarburst

So i would like to be part of this awesome group of people wielding the all mighty PH-TC14PE!!!





Currently all my components are in a Antec twelve hundred. (huge flipping case) they were in a M59 case by NZXT.
Pc part picker actually has a compatability issue with the Ph-TC14PE andt eh M59 case..

but....




as you can see it fits just fine with millimeters to spare.. I have had no issues with the heatsink getting too hot or anything... great product!


----------



## X-PREDATOR

hey howzit hanging starburst...
so you moved it all over to the 1200...makes a big diff goin from a mid to full tower..i took 2days to finish my build when goin from a scout to the predator..felt like im lost..dunno what to do with all that room..dont think ill ever buy a mid or small case again unless its a must..
am thinking of gettin aerocool ds for doin a friends build and a htpc for my own needs..

for the other dude buyin a awsome cooler..even if not pwm..just run them from a fancontroller if youve got one..makes it 10times easier than software or bios control..heck some controllers alow yu to even put a rpm control extension inbetween for complete control..ive got mine setup like this..


----------



## LGxStarburst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> hey howzit hanging starburst...
> so you moved it all over to the 1200...makes a big diff goin from a mid to full tower..i took 2days to finish my build when goin from a scout to the predator..felt like im lost..dunno what to do with all that room..dont think ill ever buy a mid or small case again unless its a must..
> am thinking of gettin aerocool ds for doin a friends build and a htpc for my own needs..
> 
> for the other dude buyin a awsome cooler..even if not pwm..just run them from a fancontroller if youve got one..makes it 10times easier than software or bios control..heck some controllers alow yu to even put a rpm control extension inbetween for complete control..ive got mine setup like this..


yea i got the 1200 for free from my workplace.. ima ctually gonna go out and purchase the source 530 in a few weeks. i like all the options it has.. but ill never drop to mid atx again lol...i have two m59 cases now sitting in my room.. one just got a scrap parts build in it.. (intel) and the other is literally brand new.. still has plastic film on front bezel..

might sell it . but i dunno yet.

also im waiting for antec to get soem power supply backplates in because the case didnt come with one... and it needs anew side panel the plexi was ripped up bad


----------



## X-PREDATOR

thats sounds like a leka project..new window..new design..have fun bro


----------



## X-PREDATOR




----------



## X-PREDATOR




----------



## X-PREDATOR

Sorry i ddnt hv proper heatshrink so the sleeve job ddnt pan out so well..
Baught i deep cool 4*4pin pwm hub..
Split the rpm/pwm & 12v lines to make my own splitter hub..just gotta install it.


----------



## iwalkwithedead

Wiring is a mess at the moment because I'm sleeving and doing custom lengths to make it look much better. more pics below



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











This cooler is in my Bitfenix Phenom mITX


----------



## Axaion

So just got the Cooler myself.. mis matched splitter and pwm cable and everything.

Was just wondering if my temps are fine as it has UNEVEN fins, and the top covers are uneven too.

Anyhow, my temps are in the picture below, id say its around.. 30c ambient here, the case is just below a closed window with a blackout curtain on, with the sun shining on that curtain, probably around 20cm to the left and right of the case (nanoxia DS1) and 40CM behind it.

The CPU is OC'ed to 4ghz with 1.272v showing when i was running it



Ran the test with IntelBurnTest and prime95 at the same time for that duration, also furmark in the background to heat the GPU

Just wondering if the temps are good or not really, if not and the uneven fins is messing with them, im going to RMA, but if not.. why bother, right?

Obligatory picture of it installed (sorry for horribad everything, was too freaking warm lol)


----------



## X-PREDATOR

for those ambient temps
your fine bro..
my place has same issue in summer time..room gets above 35 even with AC on..i dont dare run the masjien in daytime during summers..not even when the gaming itch is really bighting..
running both tests and still below 85 is great..
if you want to improve maybe..
put a 120/140mm fan as intake in 5.25 bays..
top panel exhaust fans..
remove hds and remove hd cages
get a external enclosuere for those drives ..alot safer too..dont wna lose your data too power failure one day..
other than these tips..your temps r ok..


----------



## Axaion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> for those ambient temps
> your fine bro..
> my place has same issue in summer time..room gets above 35 even with AC on..i dont dare run the masjien in daytime during summers..not even when the gaming itch is really bighting..
> running both tests and still below 85 is great..
> if you want to improve maybe..
> put a 120/140mm fan as intake in 5.25 bays..
> top panel exhaust fans..
> remove hds and remove hd cages
> get a external enclosuere for those drives ..alot safer too..dont wna lose your data too power failure one day..
> other than these tips..your temps r ok..


yeah, id love to put a TY-147 in the top 5.25 bay, problem is, there is a door in the front upper and lower parts, the lower part has holes to allow the botton fans to get air, but as you can see in the pic, the top does not

Id have to mod the case, which would be great... but i have neither the tools to do so, or the experience/knowledge

The rest is .. well .. money issue, i got the phanteks for 31% off, so couldent resist


----------



## X-PREDATOR

well the front doors/panels are easy to unscrew and replace with mesh..you can contact mn pctech for help..their not to xpensive either..
well.as start id remove all those hds..theyre blockin precious air ..
but none the less..
great setup and cudos for buyin 1 of the top coolers possible..
what tim dd yo use?
application?


----------



## Axaion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> well the front doors/panels are easy to unscrew and replace with mesh..you can contact mn pctech for help..their not to xpensive either..
> well.as start id remove all those hds..theyre blockin precious air ..
> but none the less..
> great setup and cudos for buyin 1 of the top coolers possible..
> what tim dd yo use?
> application?


I used the phanteks TIM, people said it was almost as good as icdiamond.. so yeah

Pea sized blob, one test application then a real one, test one just barely spread to the edges of the CPU heatsink

Did have a tube of MX-4 somewhere though

nm pctech?, doubt we have that in denmark heh

Yeah, the hdds are blocking 1½ fans, which is a ton as those cages pretty much block -ALL- air, more or less nothing gets through except the top half fan

What i wanted to do, was cut some holes in the side on top like there is already, and mount the fan inside, with a filter in front.. but yeah heh

Would be a cleaner build too without 5 cables to HDD's.. but no money for a seperate rack or whatever for them


----------



## X-PREDATOR

try get this

http://www.google.com/search?q=usb+external+universal+hdd+adapter&client=ms-opera-mini-android&channel=new&prmd=ivns&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=vcbBU8q-NYeEOLWRgLAO&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ

ive got one..it works on sata/ide etc..

or

docking station

http://plugable.com/products/usb3-sata-u3

you can use the hd cages as racks..no need for enclosures..you can even try get cheap hot swap sata pcb..like those in cases..works just like an xternal enclosure..

once the hds cages r out..i dont see the need to cut too much..
id just remove the front cover on front panel..get cheap modders mesh..measure it out same size as the closed panels/doors..
make a replica frame for the mesh or just cut out middle of the originals and insert mesh with airfilters for dust..
another cool idea:
just make 120mm sized mesh grills for each fan..it can then me screwed on directly with the fan itself..just put a rubber spacer or washers in between to give some bit of a gap..

lotsa easy ways..
denmark? germany?
awsome?.....thats like close to home off be-quiets headQ


----------



## Axaion

Nah, id want an enclosure for them, if i take them out of the case really.
the Ty-147 is 140mm (well.. 150x160mm size or something weird, im sore Doyll has the right measurements haha) with 120mm mount holes

gotta do something about that massive PSU cable in front of the cooler, the next time i open it up though.

and yeah, those hdd cages +4 hdds and 1 ssd does ruin the cooling somewhat, thankfully the bottom intake helps there i bet

Side panel is exhaust with a ty-147 too, as the GPU is a "spit if all out into the case again" type cooler

Generally, i think having a top front intake would help a lot, guess i could test with some duct tape first.. if i can even fit the ty-147 in there, should be doable as its 3x 5.25" slots i can clear up


----------



## X-PREDATOR

ive got a big 140mm..TT turbo fan..takes up exactly 3 1/4 "..
try rather having the side panel as intake..
every fan as intake and just the top and rear exhausnt..yeah i know..sounds too traditional..but it works..
ive got
2*140 intake sidepanel
bottom 140mm + 40mm rad + 120 fan intake push pull..gpu mod
+ bottom rear above psu 40mm rad push pull 2*120mm pulling air out.
front 200mm intake
5.25 bays intake 140mm
rear 140 out
top 200mm out..
and in summer (vry hot humid summers) my temps are similar too yours

well good luck then..


----------



## Axaion

Only have one extra fan, so it either has to be top intake/exhaust unless i manage to find a way to make it top front intake

my GPU dumps all the air back into the case, so i assume very much i want to remove that air


----------



## X-PREDATOR

then add a fan onto the open pci slots on the case ..a low rpm fan..thatll pull the air thru att the bottom..the way i see it..you either sacrifice some form off style for better airflo..and right now..your stuck with the looks part..
i saw a few reviews of this case..very nice case..
the roof can pop up right? so how/why not leave it open as intended..even without top fans..the heat will escape naturally..just try it ..my utter opinion is still the same im afraid..
only way to improve temps/airflo..
remove hds thats not needed 24/7+hd caddies..that alone..in default config..will help alot..or..add fans to opposite side of cages to pull air thru the cages..

good luck..hope you figure it out...


----------



## Axaion

Its kinda limited how much heat will go through the top if theres no fan there, as theres two fans on the heatsink, and an exhaust fan pulling it all out the back, and possibly some down from the top
Only have one spare fan, still the TY-147

Im not going to pop the roof, it only lets sound out really
Im using all the HDDs, so that is again, not an option, and im not willing to let them sit in open air either, so would need an enclosure for them, which costs $$
pretty sure the front top intake would help a ton, just need to figure out what i got to work with and how to do it


----------



## X-PREDATOR

top..front..intake doesnt help jack rabbit..your better of putting it in 5.25 bays and remove the door then completely...

well..how can you put top intake if you dont want that top door pop open..your just goin against laws of physx...
go check on youtube..there plenty clips on smoke tests..diff fan setups..top intake is bad cause it pulls in hot air quicker than other spots...

where do ya live that its so hot now?


----------



## Axaion

you need to stop with the ".." man, its, to say the least extremely annoying to look at heh

By front top i mean by modding the case and removing the 3x 5.25 bays -IF- i can make it fit.

I live in denmark(still), and we had 28C outside at the time of testing with 52% humidity


----------



## X-PREDATOR

dude..cool off..no need to get twisted...
i dont keep track or read last 20 posts each time just to keep up...
why just not take an easy way out..
sell your current case..use that $$ and get a better case with same silent treatment + better airflow qaulity...

FYI...its 02:07 am...so sorry that you feel i hurt your feelings...

you need to stop with the ".."
man, its, to say the least
extremely annoying to look at heh

what the heck??? dude if i ddnt have 2strikes against me already id giv you peace of my mind..im tryin to be helpfull ..and you insult me????

ps..fyi..ps..fyi..ps...

look at this..they show in I.R heat build up with top intake

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=goIqKrL3RGQ&ctp=CDgQpDAYAiITCJ-M757Bw78CFaQKwgodIksA61IicGMgY2FzZSBhaXJmbG8gdGVzdCB0b3AgaW50YWtlIGZhbg%3D%3D&gl=ZA&hl=en-GB&client=mv-google&guid=

after with top exhaust

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BaZJ2cJS6tM&ctp=CDUQpDAYAyITCJ-M757Bw78CFaQKwgodIksA61IicGMgY2FzZSBhaXJmbG8gdGVzdCB0b3AgaW50YWtlIGZhbg%3D%3D&gl=ZA&hl=en-GB&client=mv-google&guid=

these prove one thing..your just goin to mess up a case for a pointless mod..if you realy want to cut/mod that top..
remove the hole top panel..cut out 3*120/140mm fan holes..add fine grill mesh+dust filter..and presto..10*times better airflo in the top..
yes im an idiot..but a darn good one...

best of luck..please feel free to comment further..but you might not like the response


----------



## Axaion

I didnt mean it in a bad way man, just wanted to let you know, no harm meant

Go ahead and pm me, I can take it









edit here: those vids (saw the silverstone ones too btw) has intake fans in the top and bottom -front- of the case, mine does not, as i have to mod the case to accept a fan in the front top (above the two fans in front of HDD cages.)

also, my case even with the top open, wont allow air to escase cleanly like that either, which is why i think modding the case to allow for 2x 120mm front and a 140mm above those two would be much better (would also push more air into the case)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> dude..cool off..no need to get twisted...
> i dont keep track or read last 20 posts each time just to keep up...
> why just not take an easy way out..
> sell your current case..use that $$ and get a better case with same silent treatment + better airflow qaulity...
> 
> FYI...its 02:07 am...so sorry that you feel i hurt your feelings...
> 
> you need to stop with the ".."
> man, its, to say the least
> extremely annoying to look at heh
> 
> what the heck??? dude if i ddnt have 2strikes against me already id giv you peace of my mind..im tryin to be helpfull ..and you insult me????
> 
> ps..fyi..ps..fyi..ps...
> 
> l*ook at this..they show in I.R heat build up with top intake*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=goIqKrL3RGQ&ctp=CDgQpDAYAiITCJ-M757Bw78CFaQKwgodIksA61IicGMgY2FzZSBhaXJmbG8gdGVzdCB0b3AgaW50YWtlIGZhbg%3D%3D&gl=ZA&hl=en-GB&client=mv-google&guid=
> 
> after with top exhaust
> 
> http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BaZJ2cJS6tM&ctp=CDUQpDAYAyITCJ-M757Bw78CFaQKwgodIksA61IicGMgY2FzZSBhaXJmbG8gdGVzdCB0b3AgaW50YWtlIGZhbg%3D%3D&gl=ZA&hl=en-GB&client=mv-google&guid=
> 
> 
> these prove one thing..your just goin to mess up a case for a pointless mod..if you realy want to cut/mod that top..
> remove the hole top panel..cut out 3*120/140mm fan holes..add fine grill mesh+dust filter..and presto..10*times better airflo in the top..
> yes im an idiot..but a darn good one...
> 
> best of luck..please feel free to comment further..but you might not like the response


You are seriously over-reacting to what Axaion said.









Your posted videos are not tests. They are *simulations*
Case Airflow *Simulation* - Top Intake Mode
Case Airflow *Simulation* - Top Exhaust Mode

simulation:

1. imitation or enactment, as of conditions anticipated.
2. the act or process of pretending; feigning.
3. an assumption or imitation of a particular appearance or form; counterfeit.
4. the representation of the behavior or characteristics of one system through the use of another system, esp. using a computer.
Simulation may or may not be what really is really happening.








Also, they do not have an intake fan in the upper front as Axaion plans to have.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axaion*
> 
> I didnt mean it in a bad way man, just wanted to let you know, no harm meant
> 
> Go ahead and pm me, I can take it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit here: those vids (saw the silverstone ones too btw) has intake fans in the top and bottom -front- of the case, mine does not, as i have to mod the case to accept a fan in the front top (above the two fans in front of HDD cages.)
> 
> also, my case even with the top open, wont allow air to escase cleanly like that either, which is why i think modding the case to allow for 2x 120mm front and a 140mm above those two would be much better (would also push more air into the case)


Adding an intake in the 5.25 bays will significant;y improve the airflow of cool air to CPU cooler.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i may hav over reacted..but still ive been tryin to explain exactly what youre saying..but it aint taking..

those may be simulations..but very close to real instances..
there was another poster who had similar ???'s..i linked same youtube stuff + more..
having intake air from the top can work..but only if its a low rpm 700-1000rpm..something that'll not push the heat down
and create a heat pile up..
but its best to have the top exhaust always in a air cooling setup...heat rises bottom to top+rear..
theirs a reason cases are designed that way..
ive tested this with my own pc..
the top vents can open & close..when closed + fan is off..temps are overall higher at idle+load by 5-15°
with fan off + vents open. 5-10°..
open vent + fan on..temps drop by above °C and are normal again..

so im tryin to help..but when sm1 gets insulting with blanked out ".."...
i tend to get a little offended..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> i may hav over reacted..but still ive been tryin to explain exactly what youre saying..but it aint taking..
> 
> those may be simulations..but very close to real instances..
> there was another poster who had similar ???'s..i linked same youtube stuff + more..
> having intake air from the top can work..but only if its a low rpm 700-1000rpm..something that'll not push the heat down
> and create a heat pile up..
> but its best to have the top exhaust always in a air cooling setup...heat rises bottom to top+rear..
> theirs a reason cases are designed that way..
> ive tested this with my own pc..
> the top vents can open & close..when closed + fan is off..temps are overall higher at idle+load by 5-15°
> with fan off + vents open. 5-10°..
> open vent + fan on..temps drop by above °C and are normal again..
> 
> so im tryin to help..but when sm1 gets insulting with blanked out ".."...
> i tend to get a little offended..



From my experience hot air does not form a rectangle above PCIe sockets, so I don't think the simulations are close to real.
Top intake can definitely work.
The reason cases are designed that way is not necessarily for better cooling. As long as it sells most manufactures could care less about how well it cools.
Just because it doesn't work in your case doesn't mean it won't work in others.
OCN rules and guidelines ask us not to use txt talk or abbreviations. Doing so makes it much harder for non-English speaking and English as second language people to understand.

My experiences have shown top vents often cause problems in conventional air cooled layouts. The biggest problem is GPUs now generate 2-3 times as much heat as CPUs .. and GPU coolers dump their heated air in all directions (only ones that are any different are reference with blowers pushing air out the back ). If case airflow is from front & bottom to back & top this heated GPU exhaust flows up around CPU heating the air going into CPU cooler. Not using / blocking the top vents and using an intake in front near the top flows cool air directly to CPU cooler and rear vent exhausted it out the back. If we use PCIe slots in back of case and sometimes side vent as exhaust with lower front and bottom intakes the GPU is supplied with cool air .. it's heated exhaust flows out side and back without mixing with cool air going to GPU or CPU.


----------



## Axaion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> i may hav over reacted..but still ive been tryin to explain exactly what youre saying..but it aint taking..
> 
> those may be simulations..but very close to real instances..
> there was another poster who had similar ???'s..i linked same youtube stuff + more..
> having intake air from the top can work..but only if its a low rpm 700-1000rpm..something that'll not push the heat down
> and create a heat pile up..
> but its best to have the top exhaust always in a air cooling setup...heat rises bottom to top+rear..
> theirs a reason cases are designed that way..
> ive tested this with my own pc..
> the top vents can open & close..when closed + fan is off..temps are overall higher at idle+load by 5-15°
> with fan off + vents open. 5-10°..
> open vent + fan on..temps drop by above °C and are normal again..
> 
> so im tryin to help..but when sm1 gets insulting with blanked out ".."...
> i tend to get a little offended..


I didnt mean it in that way man, its just that ".." is usually looked as, as you are wasting your time, explaining something someone should already know, like if someone says for example

example1: you suck brah
answer to example1: ..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> From my experience hot air does not form a rectangle above PCIe sockets, so I don't think the simulations are close to real.
> Top intake can definitely work.
> The reason cases are designed that way is not necessarily for better cooling. As long as it sells most manufactures could care less about how well it cools.
> Just because it doesn't work in your case doesn't mean it won't work in others.
> OCN rules and guidelines ask us not to use txt talk or abbreviations. Doing so makes it much harder for non-English speaking and English as second language people to understand.
> 
> My experiences have shown top vents often cause problems in conventional air cooled layouts. The biggest problem is GPUs now generate 2-3 times as much heat as CPUs .. and GPU coolers dump their heated air in all directions (only ones that are any different are reference with blowers pushing air out the back ). If case airflow is from front & bottom to back & top this heated GPU exhaust flows up around CPU heating the air going into CPU cooler. Not using / blocking the top vents and using an intake in front near the top flows cool air directly to CPU cooler and rear vent exhausted it out the back. If we use PCIe slots in back of case and sometimes side vent as exhaust with lower front and bottom intakes the GPU is supplied with cool air .. it's heated exhaust flows out side and back without mixing with cool air going to GPU or CPU.


I understood him fine really, just wanted to let him know, thats all :\

On the cooling side, i tried removing the 3x.5.25 slots in the front, and pressinga TY-147 in there (it could fit lol,) cpu temps dropped 2 on idle, 3-4C on load (Intel burn test, OpenHardwaremonitor said the CPU was using 108w) but the fan never spun up above 920 RPM for the TY-147's, and since the phanteks fans mimic their pwm in variable voltage, i guess theyre around the same

Before the fan (no grill or filter tho.) it was running up to 1200rpm.

So yeah, just gotta find an easy way to make it fit nicely, and get a filter for it, would be nice if i could make some holes in the side so i can keep the door on too, but that requires the right tools and experience heh


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axaion*
> 
> On the cooling side, i tried removing the 3x.5.25 slots in the front, and pressinga TY-147 in there (it could fit lol,) cpu temps dropped 2 on idle, 3-4C on load (Intel burn test, OpenHardwaremonitor said the CPU was using 108w) but the fan never spun up above 920 RPM for the TY-147's, and since the phanteks fans mimic their pwm in variable voltage, i guess theyre around the same
> 
> Before the fan (no grill or filter tho.) it was running up to 1200rpm.
> 
> So yeah, just gotta find an easy way to make it fit nicely, and get a filter for it, would be nice if i could make some holes in the side so i can keep the door on too, but that requires the right tools and experience heh


CPU being 3-4c cooler with fans spinning 300rpm slower is a big difference! That leads me to believe the air going into cooler is now at least 7-10c cooler than before .. maybe more. The difference in airflow from fans running 1200rpm before and 920rpm now indicates a major drop in air temp.

I assume room was same temp as before?

This is a very good example of why I use a temperature probe to monitor cooler intake air temps when setting up case airflow .. as second link in sig explains.


----------



## Axaion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> CPU being 3-4c cooler with fans spinning 300rpm slower is a big difference! That leads me to believe the air going into cooler is now at least 7-10c cooler than before .. maybe more. The difference in airflow from fans running 1200rpm before and 920rpm now indicates a major drop in air temp.
> 
> I assume room was same temp as before?
> 
> This is a very good example of why I use a temperature probe to monitor cooler intake air temps when setting up case airflow .. as second link in sig explains.


yeah, room temp stayed the same, there was like.. 40 seconds between those two runs, so maybe 0.5c variance, maybe.

Ive got a lot of cables tucked in in front of that temp fan i tried with, so could optimize that airflow much more (the akasa PWM splitter cables are there)

Just gotta find a easy way to mod the case and add the fan and filter =)


----------



## X-PREDATOR

well..use soft foam adhevisive strips on
sides/bottom of fan..+zip ties..works great..
plus if you can do it cross pattern..youll end up having the fan in suspension not touching the case at all..no virbrations..mine is like this in 5.25 bays..cant hear the fan..even at full wack..

im sorry and apologise for my outburst..

well to mod that door is easy enough...
hope you get what your aiming for..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axaion*
> 
> yeah, room temp stayed the same, there was like.. 40 seconds between those two runs, so maybe 0.5c variance, maybe.
> 
> Ive got a lot of cables tucked in in front of that temp fan i tried with, so could optimize that airflow much more (the akasa PWM splitter cables are there)
> 
> Just gotta find a easy way to mod the case and add the fan and filter =)


Filter is fairly easy. Us a magnetic mounting one like DEMCiflex or Silverstone sell.
Fan is easy with zip-ties or wedge it with foam.
Just open door when you are gaming / working system hard. Ideal would be to mod the doors with grills,


----------



## Axaion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Filter is fairly easy. Us a magnetic mounting one like DEMCiflex or Silverstone sell.
> Fan is easy with zip-ties or wedge it with foam.
> Just open door when you are gaming / working system hard. Ideal would be to mod the doors with grills,


I was thinking modding the side with grills actually, like it has 70% of the front, for some reason they went "nah lets not just to the rest" on the case.

that way i can keep the door closed, and the fans still get the air they need, like the two 120mm front fans, was considering taking a pic with my phone so you can see what i mean


----------



## X-PREDATOR

that is actualy a good idea..but a full mesh into the door would be better ..plus you can have the cutout part of the original door still act as a door..just cutout the middel part of the door..keep it..mount modders mesh on inside of the door..cut the cutout an 1cm smaller..reatach it onto mesh..door..
two door design and full mesh for great airflo..same can be done to bottom front panel
good luck


----------



## doyll

While putting grills in door face would give best airflow it will also increase noise level significantly. That is the reason the front venting is on sides just behind the doors.


----------



## Axaion

That and it would kinda ruin the idea of even having the doors, heh









On another note the shop i bought the cooler at wants to replace it, because its almost ^ shaped on one of the towers, ill take a pic when i get the new one or when i open the case again

Any good tips on how to make the same type and size of grills on the side, like there already is?, its about 2-3mm thick plastic on the side


----------



## X-PREDATOR

take pics of these vents/doors please from the front and inside.....
just google pc case front door mods or search here in the mods section..theres lotsa peeps here to help fill a need..


----------



## Axaion

Again, i am -not- going to mod the doors, that would defeat the point of even having them lol

Taking pics when i open it up (have a HDD rma coming in, 4th Toshiba 3TB drive that broke.)


----------



## X-PREDATOR

thats sucks..

strange that they can make some of the best ssd controllers in their day but their own drives are crapola..
hence why i only trust seagates or wd black or red hds..
ive got seagates as old as 7yrs..still working like day 1..

sorri to here that..
i know your not goin to mod it..we are/i am just speculating..shooting the breeze..
but i must say..im no hardcore modder but that nanoxia is like looking at a cosmos ii..its begging for a moddification..sorry..

so you returnd the cooler..why?..your temps were great considering high room temps and the nature of this case ..
if you actualy get better temps..id be very surprized..
only thing thatll be an improvement in temps is either cooler room + better case airflo..or full on liquid kit..like a h220X or bigger..

again..good luck..hope you get were your aiming for..


----------



## bhav

I love my Phanteks cooler.

I'll dig up all my pictures of it when I get the time. I have a lot.


----------



## Axaion

Well, Im returning it for one thats not bent out of shape, with crooked covers, the performance of it is fine, but if i ever get higher RPM fans for it, if i wanted to OC higher, the bent fins would make a ton more noise when the air hits them at an angle like that.

Its weird yeah, everyone raves about the Toshibas having insane reliability (even some charts out), but i urge anyone to think a second time before buying a Toshiba DT10ACA300 (3TB) Drive, seriously, just dont lol









Sides, im not going to pay extra to get a brand new cooler, since its not perfect in craftsmanship and so on, I guess im the kind of person shops hate, because if something is not 100% i RMA it, and here - They have to pay for the shipping cost on RMA's, so i really lose nothing, i just gaint the product i paid for the first time around









Thanks for the good luck though


----------



## VeerK

Are there any reviews for the difference between 2 standard fans and adding a third one?

I am considering getting a third matching fan and either adding it to the back to complete the sandwich, or getting a third one and replacing my current 140mm exhaust with it. Does anyone know what the performance gains are? Sorry if this was covered somewhere, google and search just failed me.


----------



## Axaion

from what i saw from reviews.. 1-2c difference at most


----------



## X-PREDATOR

actualy youll get closer to a 1-8C drop easy..
i had 3fan setup..
like so:
120mm
140mm(center)
140mm back
140mm case exhaust..
only reason i changed it is my ph fans was still brand new ..sealed for the 1yr+ ive had this cooler..decided to try'em out..
1of them was busted out the box..buzzing noise..busted baring..dry..
so i just stuck to
120mm
140mm..temps are still very good..

its all 50/50....if your running this cooler in small/-confined/-high ambient room etc..
then it doesnt matter what fans or how great airfo your case has..-this applies to any cooling setup..not just this one..-youll hv highish temps..
nothing is made perfect..

reviews are very iffy..very few realy show how and what is realy done ..they might say this hardware and so many tests and oc's..but truthfully very few push their tests to the limits..
out of all the people..i trust 3 reviewers
OC3D net..TTL..tom login..crazy dude.
Linus Sebastion..linus tech tips
Johnny Guru..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeerK*
> 
> Are there any reviews for the difference between 2 standard fans and adding a third one?
> 
> I am considering getting a third matching fan and either adding it to the back to complete the sandwich, or getting a third one and replacing my current 140mm exhaust with it. Does anyone know what the performance gains are? Sorry if this was covered somewhere, google and search just failed me.


0-2c improvement.
Problem is reviews use room temperature and not the actual temperature of air gong into cooler to base their CPU temperatures on. That is like setting a thermometer on the porch to see what the temperature of your family room is with the furnace on and fireplace burning.







Cooler intake temp is rarely the same as room .. just like porch is rarely the same as family room.









Fan speed, fan placement, etc. all affect cooler intake air temp .. same as adding a fan on back of cooler or as rear exhaust.

Myself, I usually use a fan same as on cooler on rear exhaust .. speed controlled the same as cooler fans. This means rear exhaust is removing as much air as is coming out of cooler.


----------



## VeerK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 0-2c improvement.
> Problem is reviews use room temperature and not the actual temperature of air gong into cooler to base their CPU temperatures on. That is like setting a thermometer on the porch to see what the temperature of your family room is with the furnace on and fireplace burning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cooler intake temp is rarely the same as room .. just like porch is rarely the same as family room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fan speed, fan placement, etc. all affect cooler intake air temp .. same as adding a fan on back of cooler or as rear exhaust.
> 
> Myself, I usually use a fan same as on cooler on rear exhaust .. speed controlled the same as cooler fans. This means rear exhaust is removing as much air as is coming out of cooler.


I see, I might just pick another one up just to make my exhaust match the cooler fans then. Only reason I was curious is to avoid as much CPU heat dumping onto my sound card right beneath it, the fit is very close


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeerK*
> 
> I see, I might just pick another one up just to make my exhaust match the cooler fans then. Only reason I was curious is to avoid as much CPU heat dumping onto my sound card right beneath it, the fit is very close


I often cut the grills out of case vents and run without or with a simple wire ring grill. Stock grills block 20-50% of airflow area, create turbulence which lowers airflow and creates noise.

With a good rear exhaust fan you could also try adding a "shroud / duct" from top side and top of cooler to rear exhaust. Leave the lower side open to draw air from back / top of audio card. "L" shaped on top side and top of cooler like below.
Like this. This is a Fractal Design Define R2 with rear grill & I/O plate removed with duct from cooler to back


----------



## X-PREDATOR

nice..D..

any 1 know perhaps why phanteks support is close to 00,00000% @ the moment..
ive in the last 3months emailed them atleast 10times to request replacement fans under warranty..and their simply being non responsive..if a product has 5yr
warranty from manufacturer i exspect some form of support atleast..


----------



## doyll

No idea why you are having problems. They've always been spot on for me.


----------



## brian-phanteks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> nice..D..
> 
> any 1 know perhaps why phanteks support is close to 00,00000% @ the moment..
> ive in the last 3months emailed them atleast 10times to request replacement fans under warranty..and their simply being non responsive..if a product has 5yr
> warranty from manufacturer i exspect some form of support atleast..


@X-PREDATOR,
What seems to be the issue with your fans? In which ways have you tried to contact support for RMA?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

hi bro..ive talked pm to a rep..
and countless times ive sent an email via phanteks support/contact us section on the webpage per instructions.
the place..-Evetech-..who sold your products in S.Africa..just shortly after i baught the cooler..stopped selling your stuff.
the fans that came with the cooler was un used till a few months ago..
ive only tested them in the beginning and a short while used 1 as a case fan
i removed it after 2weeks..made buzzing noise from day1..i contacted evetech..they said sorry no longer selling phanteks due too inconsistant perfomence..so i tried support on phanteks..they wanted the whole unit..i refused..why send the whole package when under warranty laws im entitled too direct replacement fans..other one was still sealed till recent...then year later..i got board and decided to givem a go as a 3fan config..buzzing noise persisted....
even at low rpm..turned out to be 1of the two ..so i took it out..
tried for 3months too get help..no help was given..so i ended up giving the busted fan away to sm1 who was looking for 140mm fan...
i know..it defeats the purpose too rma request..but after never getting a response..i got a bit annoyed..
seinh how many others got help because their in more suitable regions of the world-my opinion.

so what know?
i still have 3 & half yrs warrenty left of the 5 yr warrenty on this product..
and by consumers laws im entitled to direct replacement or full refund ..
which i do not want..the cooler itself is great..just want new fans please..

long story short...for the 1 & half yrs ive had the cooler ( 16months) 13 months the fans wasnt used..well 1..other was tried and removed each time due to noise..

you decide which way now..i leave the ball in your hands..thanks


----------



## brian-phanteks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> hi bro..ive talked pm to a rep..
> and countless times ive sent an email via phanteks support/contact us section on the webpage per instructions.
> the place..-Evetech-..who sold your products in S.Africa..just shortly after i baught the cooler..stopped selling your stuff.
> the fans that came with the cooler was un used till a few months ago..
> ive only tested them in the beginning and a short while used 1 as a case fan
> i removed it after 2weeks..made buzzing noise from day1..i contacted evetech..they said sorry no longer selling phanteks due too inconsistant perfomence..so i tried support on phanteks..they wanted the whole unit..i refused..why send the whole package when under warranty laws im entitled too direct replacement fans..other one was still sealed till recent...then year later..i got board and decided to givem a go as a 3fan config..buzzing noise persisted....
> even at low rpm..turned out to be 1of the two ..so i took it out..
> tried for 3months too get help..no help was given..so i ended up giving the busted fan away to sm1 who was looking for 140mm fan...
> i know..it defeats the purpose too rma request..but after never getting a response..i got a bit annoyed..
> seinh how many others got help because their in more suitable regions of the world-my opinion.
> 
> so what know?
> i still have 3 & half yrs warrenty left of the 5 yr warrenty on this product..
> and by consumers laws im entitled to direct replacement or full refund ..
> which i do not want..the cooler itself is great..just want new fans please..
> 
> long story short...for the 1 & half yrs ive had the cooler ( 16months) 13 months the fans wasnt used..well 1..other was tried and removed each time due to noise..
> 
> you decide which way now..i leave the ball in your hands..thanks


If you need to have your fan replaced, you will need to send the defective item to either our Europe or United States office, which ever is more convenient for you. Once they receive the fan, they will inspect it and send a replacement to you.


----------



## LGxStarburst

So i updated my case and stuffed my system into the 1200







still got my phanteks cooler going strong.. next upgrade for me will be a phanteks PRO case.... six months or maybe less we will see







oh and for those wondering.. one of my fans bit the dust so i have to resort to using one fan.. simply cant afford another fan as of current.. i think the fans i got on my cooler were from an older series of fans though, so one day i will spend the money to get myself two new 140mm fans to compliment that heatsink

also the most recent picture is the top one. i recently changed power supplies and added my cfx setup . ignore the paint on the video card.. botched customization attempt


----------



## X-PREDATOR

@ rep check your pm

@lg..nice man..i can see why people loved too mod the 1200..so much room in the top..looks like a push pull + 60mm rad setup can go in there easily after mod diy the top..ive always liked the 1200 for that dual rear fan system..a h100 etc or custom rad can go there nicely..

loving it bro..
what happnd to your ocz psu?


----------



## LGxStarburst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> @ rep check your pm
> 
> @lg..nice man..i can see why people loved too mod the 1200..so much room in the top..looks like a push pull + 60mm rad setup can go in there easily after mod diy the top..ive always liked the 1200 for that dual rear fan system..a h100 etc or custom rad can go there nicely..
> 
> loving it bro..
> what happnd to your ocz psu?


used it in a scrap build i put together for my little brother... i had a spare m59 (from one of our previous convos if you remember) and a nice socket 775 asus mobo so i got everything else either free or cheap (mostly from a throwout box at a computer store) and put another one together.

im seriously gonna go withe the phanteks pro when i have the cash.. they used screws!!! instead of rivets! moddability right out of the box!!!!!!


----------



## X-PREDATOR

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=guBAl6g8BlY&ctp=CC8QpDAYBCITCIGWgYTDz78CFe19wgodUgwApFIMcGhhbnRla3MgcHJv&client=mv-google&gl=ZA&guid=&hl=en-GB

im agreeing with you..regretfully..no 1 sells or ships or imports phanteks anymore to my neck of the woods..and im starting to see why the only place in SA who did..stopped..

nice of ya to do that for ya little bro..where dd yu find that 775 mobo?
im desperately looking a couple..got 2 new core 2 cpus just sitting here..both qaud core and a dual core 3.0ghz..


----------



## LGxStarburst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=guBAl6g8BlY&ctp=CC8QpDAYBCITCIGWgYTDz78CFe19wgodUgwApFIMcGhhbnRla3MgcHJv&client=mv-google&gl=ZA&guid=&hl=en-GB
> 
> im agreeing with you..regretfully..no 1 sells or ships or imports phanteks anymore to my neck of the woods..and im starting to see why the only place in SA who did..stopped..
> 
> nice of ya to do that for ya little bro..where dd yu find that 775 mobo?
> im desperately looking a couple..got 2 new core 2 cpus just sitting here..both qaud core and a dual core 3.0ghz..


the mobo is actually 1 of three i got from a box my old employer was going to send of for recycling.... (SMH ) thankfully he didnt care that i took the box home.. tested out all three mobos and determined two of the three to be functional. the board i put in my brothers is actually from an asus prebuilt that had a built-in hdmi and bluetooth and all sorts of goodies.. the second mobo went into a build for my dads shop it was gigabyte mobo somebody had killed the bios so i had to literally restore it from death. updated bios and bam fully functional again


----------



## X-PREDATOR

wow..thats no easy task..how did you do it?
bios chip replacement or hard coding?
awsome..what did yo say yo do again?
i bet your bro is cranking that beasty up with stuff..awsome..


----------



## LGxStarburst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> wow..thats no easy task..how did you do it?
> bios chip replacement or hard coding?
> awsome..what did yo say yo do again?
> i bet your bro is cranking that beasty up with stuff..awsome..


It specialist/ Consultant

The board was obviously suffering from a bios failure of some sort.. i shorted two pins on the board itself to reset the bios to the original, then once i could acess the bios menu i was able to use a flash drive with updated rom on it to flash it to the current version. after windows install cehcked against uefi and asus info to ensure everything. ran tests and good as new.. the only issue i think that mobo actually has was the ps2 port on back does not work so im thinking that was the main reason it ended up in a repair shop to begin with


----------



## Axaion

Slight update, the shop i bought the cooler at, is sending me a new one to replace this one, blue version though, they ran out of stock on the whites, and they wont be ordering any new ones

hopefully this one is straight and has the flawless worksmanship they tout on their page


----------



## LGxStarburst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axaion*
> 
> Slight update, the shop i bought the cooler at, is sending me a new one to replace this one, blue version though, they ran out of stock on the whites, and they wont be ordering any new ones
> 
> hopefully this one is straight and has the flawless worksmanship they tout on their page


That sucks about not getting the color you asked for. but im glad they are willing to fix the mistake .. some resellers in my area are known to sell an item liek a video card or heatsink and then when something goes wrong its your responsibility to call and RMA the product. they basically say its out of their hands.. which is ridiculous. Best Buy does that with Razer products.


----------



## Axaion

I personally dont care if its white blue red or orange, i dont have a see through case, nor do i look at the side of the case all the time


----------



## X-PREDATOR

ive been looking at some old reviews pics of this beasty...
and if looked closely at some of them..the heatpipes do indeed have small/almost noticeble crimpings near the base were they bend..mine has a few..its never bugged me..

but what you described..uh uh..no dice..you never did put up a pic..a decent close up of the issue you had..wouldve been good ..cause then the reps around here can see what..were and which sellers are doing this..

hope the blue one is ok..


----------



## Axaion

can basicly not look straight through almost, which is too much for me, considering what they promise

When i pay for something, i want it to be flawless, or a -massive- price cut


----------



## X-PREDATOR

true..
look right thru?
you do realise that the design of this coolers fins are of such a nature that your not suppose to be able to see thru the fins?
almost like a hexagon *100 pattern..

anyhow your right..if paying for such an expensive cooler..i expect the same +decent no nonsense service to boot...
ive only seen one company stand by their rma /warrenty - Corsair...
if only others can follow suite..


----------



## Axaion

I dont think you understood, as in i can hardly look through, where the air is supposed to flow through it, without restrictions.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> true..
> look right thru?
> you do realise that the design of this coolers fins are of such a nature that your not suppose to be able to see thru the fins?
> almost like a hexagon *100 pattern..
> 
> anyhow your right..if paying for such an expensive cooler..i expect the same +decent no nonsense service to boot...
> ive only seen one company stand by their rma /warrenty - Corsair...
> if only others can follow suite..


Corsair is a long long way behind Phanteks in customer support.









I've had dealing with many top companies and dread dealing with Corsair every time. Always get the job done in the end but it's like pulling teeth every step of the way .. always takes 3-6 times as long and many follow-ups to get it done.

Corsair only does what laws make them do:
Quote:


> *Limitation of Liability*
> CORSAIR SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, INDIRECT, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES WHATSOEVER, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO LOSS OF PROFITS, REVENUE, OR DATA (WHETHER DIRECT OR INDIRECT) OR COMMERCIAL LOSS FOR BREACH OF ANY EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTY ON YOUR PRODUCT EVEN IF CORSAIR HAS BEEN ADVISED PREVIOUSLY OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES. Some local laws do not allow the exclusion or limitation of special, indirect, incidental or consequential damages, so this limitation or exclusion may not apply in your jurisdiction.
> 
> *Exclusion of Implied Warranties*
> EXCEPT AS PROHIBITED BY APPLICABLE LAW, ANY IMPLIED WARRANTY OR CONDITION OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE ON THIS HARDWARE PRODUCT IS EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMED Some local laws do not allow limitations on how long an implied warranty may last, so this limitation may not apply in your jurisdiction.


Copied directly from their warranty:
http://www.corsair.com/en-gb/support/warranty

*Limitation of Liability*
*CORSAIR SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, INDIRECT, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES WHATSOEVER*, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO LOSS OF PROFITS, REVENUE, OR DATA (WHETHER DIRECT OR INDIRECT) OR COMMERCIAL LOSS FOR BREACH OF ANY EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTY ON YOUR PRODUCT EVEN IF CORSAIR HAS BEEN ADVISED PREVIOUSLY OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES. Some local laws do not allow the exclusion or limitation of special, indirect, incidental or consequential damages, so this limitation or exclusion may not apply in your jurisdiction..

*Exclusion of Implied Warranties*
EXCEPT AS PROHIBITED BY APPLICABLE LAW, *ANY IMPLIED WARRANTY OR CONDITION OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE ON THIS HARDWARE PRODUCT IS EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMED* Some local laws do not allow limitations on how long an implied warranty may last, so this limitation may not apply in your jurisdiction.

To me that is the law forcing them to do it. Quite different than them doing it as customer service.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

well i cant say the same..got very good service from them thus far..
@ D..
its a 50/50 with any situation..but so far ive gotten the opposite from PH than others..its taken months for them to respond too my warrenty replacement request for my fans..and they want me to pay shipping to them and back?..its goin to cost me 10* more to send these back to them than just buying new fans ..which i cant..both of these situations require funds i dont have atm..and even if i did..i refuse to pay 500 + just in shipping costs just to end up with "maybe new fans"..with 500zar i cant buy 6new relatively good fans..same as ive got now..CM xtra flos....just an example
i had a psu issue..corsair sorted me out within two weeks..bam new psu at my door at no costs to me..still in a box..need extensions..cables to short....using a borrowd psu till then...so i expect same level of dedication from others.if any item has a 1-5yr+ warrenty..its up to their pockets to replace my stuff..i already paid for the item+warrenty..so why must i keep paying just to end up paying more than needed..
topic closed...

so.
[email protected] Ax...i ddnt Mis Understood..
i know precisely what you ment..and wowzers..if thats the banged up area..man..sm1 definitely ddnt handle it carefully then.
i was merely pointing out that even in 100% perfect condish..you cant realy see thru the fins..its the way their designed .
low aiflo high Static pressure optimized..why do you think your temps was so good even in that very low airflo optimized nanoxia..defective or not..you had very good temps....

when i got mine i checked every inch of the cooler itself..only thing i thaught that couldv been an xtra step on their part was a mirror finish on the base + 4pin pwm fans..i never bothered with the fans untill way later down the line.cause a week after i purchased...the seller stopped selling phanteks items..


----------



## X-PREDATOR

my country changed their consumer laws + warrenty..etc..
all places are forced to replace or issue full refund..regardless of sellers own sales warrenties..
and if the said item cant be replaced..an immediate new item must be offered or refunded..and said user can claim either option without returning defective item if not satisfied...
i had a issue with a company with a gpu..had a 3yr warranty from the maker..
after 3months..fans crapped out..so i issued for rma...got an even more defective gpu back..where they only had to replace the fans..
i issued a formal complaint with the maker..they were very unsatisfied about it..they ended up forcing the seller to issue a full refund..i was even so nice as to get a new gpu from them again..but since then...ive never went back..i still till today boycot them at every bad review i can find on them..their prices are good..but their customer service is horrible..so since then.ive been very sensitive and aware of my rights for warrenty claims..
heck if i want i can rma my motherboard right now and they must issue a new one..still got a year left.
im well aware that warranty is at sole discretion of the manufacturer..but sales/consumer laws unfortunately over rule them here..plus i realy dont care what the maker says..i paid for every piece of hardware(warrenty included) so they must sort me out...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> well i cant say the same..got very good service from them thus far..
> @ D..
> its a 50/50 with any situation..but so far ive gotten the opposite from PH than others..its taken months for them to respond too my warrenty replacement request for my fans..and they want me to pay shipping to them and back?..iif any item has a 1-5yr+ warrenty..its up to their pockets to replace my stuff..i already paid for the item+warrenty..so why must i keep paying just to end up paying more than needed..
> topic closed....


Brian said:
.[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian-phanteks*
> 
> If you need to have your fan replaced, you will need to send the defective item to either our Europe or United States office, which ever is more convenient for you. Once they receive the fan, they will inspect it and send a replacement to you.


That is not you paying post both ways. That's only paying post to send your "defective" fans to Phanteks.

My first Phanteks cooler was before they included PWM adapters. Simple request got me the adapter. With 3 fans it was getting quite warm. I asked if this was normal. After a little back and forth to determine exactly what was what they sent me 2 more adapters so I could run one on each fan.

I had a bottom fin feel a little loose on my first PH-TC14PE. This was after many remounts.. 20 or 30 remounts. I contacted Phanteks explaining how much I had remounted cooler asking if that was normal and included some pictures of what it looked like. They send me a new cooler and TIM (no fans or mount) and asked me to please pack my old cooler in the box and let them know so they could have it picked up.. which they did.

When I posted pictures of my build they gave me a free fan. When it didn't show up in a couple weeks and I asked about it they promptly replied saying it must have got lost in post and sent me another.

I know many owners who have also had great customer support.. so I have to wonder why you have so many issues with them? Maybe it's the way you sometimes come across to others.. I know at times we have had our differences too.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

im not being hard..i explained to brian in pm..
im jobless atm an work is very slow to none also with pc stuff..
its goin to cost me over 500 bucks to send them the fans so they can test it..for 500bukcs i can buy 4 - 6 brand new fans here..which is a much better deal than just getting two new fans...

i know what he said..but ive talked to him before..and apon his instructions contacted
support..never got an RPLY..this was over 6months ago..ive sent two to 3 emails per month..never got an answer...so im a bit fedup not getting anywhere near results..

all im saying here is that the moment a product is sold with a warranty as long as this..i atleast expect the manufacturer to stand by it..but as of now..it feels like they just want to make money out of me..which i dont have..and just because i live in a crappy country..doesnt mean im goin to just ly down and be taken for a ride..

i am sorry for all past and present ranting from my part..im just upset that theyre not willing to give a guy a break..send me what im entitled too..
ill still send the defective items..but theyre goin to wait a long time till i can afford it..i dont save up money atm..every penny i get i put towards the house for buying food..
im a family man..family comes first..heck i
havnt been out on my own for months now..i stay home 24/7.

and D..im am sorry..i know weve clashed like
titans in the past..but we both have strong opinions and major personalities..and were both in my opinion very dominant on our mindset of knowledge..yeah i know you think im irritating..but you cant say i dont try help however i can..
ive got nothing but admiration/respect for
you (+Ocn)


----------



## Axaion

Dunno with SA but, here in denmark they have to pay the postage fees, both ways - in case of an RMA.

Might be worth looking into?, who knows maybe your laws are the same in this area


----------



## X-PREDATOR

if the original seller..Evetech..still sold these then they would cover the costs..
but it seems phanteks has had some bad runs with rma..
cause when i first signed up to register the cooler (1yr 4months ago)
their rma/warrenty statement was different than now..
so im jumping ship to another cooler company asap ive got funds..hopefully with better support..
cause no way can a product have 5yr warrenty and then i must pay overseas shippimg costs for under warrenty action claim..
to me thats milking the cow

sorry @brian...
but to me and my regions consumer laws..
the seller (null in this case now) and manufacturer are held responsible to cover all costs under warrenty claims..
im goin to sell this thing if i dont get deserved services i paid for the day i baught the cooler (which said 5yr warrenty..not buy now and never)
i was so at ease back then knowing i had worked my but off to buy this with a decent warranty..now..im left back in dark days realising that manufacturers are a bunch of liars..


----------



## Axaion

It does not matter what the companys warranty policies are, as long as you can prove that you bought it in your country, then they -HAVE- to abide by the laws, else they would get a massive amount of law suits on them really.

Then again, might be a reason why theyre not available in SA

Again, i do not know the laws in SA though. - look into it, and show them the parts of that said law, they either have to abide by it, or buy lube









As an example, I bought a screen off viewsonic, the VX2268wm (22" 120hz 1st gen monitor), it has -one- dead pixel on it, i told them... know what they did?, they asked me when i wanted UPS to come pick it up, free of charge of course.

I kinda just let it go, as that was just above and beyond customer support right then and there


----------



## X-PREDATOR

now thats what i call customer support..did you end up getting new screen?

i sent proof of purchase to the rep..i originally order black cooler.but at last minute had to change the order due to one of the sales personnel selling my cooler to another client..so i was offered red or blue..i went with red..but the final slip/invoice stated red cooler with black fans which isn't what i got i got the red cooler with its own red/white fans..

well im currently running the setup with higher rpm % fan settings in bios..and there's no difference between 25% (my usual setting) and 37/50 %..so it kind off proves to me that this cooler is meant for low rpm high sp fans..

as i was previously trying to explain to Axaion...your temps were great even with the damages and inside a case with low airflow and its in a location were its hot..i was very surprised at your temps you posted..heck i get same /higher sometimes in summer here and my CPU isn't OCED...

+rep to ya man..and sorry for all the previous confusions..D is right..i do tend to explain things a bit differently than others..ENG isn't my first language..AFR is..so my ENG is very mixed up sometimes..

any news on the new cooler yet? or are you jumping gun to a different type..
im very interested to try one of be quiets coolers one day..especially their twin tower beasty//

but thatll be one day when i have money too blow in the water..as of now..im job hunting..


----------



## Axaion

Nah, i decided i could kinda live with 1 dead pixel, and just kept it because they responded so fast, and the way they did.

The shop i bought it at sent a replacement cooler the day before yesterday, its here tomorrow


----------



## X-PREDATOR

great stuff dude..
well it seams that i can just as well right off my remainder off the warranty..aint getting replacement fans..so guess what..back too just leaving it as is..saving up over time and wait till i can buy new fans..hopefully soon..any body know when the corsair SP 140 fans are hitting the shelves?


----------



## Axaion

Why not the Thermalright TY series instead?, from what i hear from doyll theyre actually better than the phanteks, and they have PWM


----------



## X-PREDATOR

S.A sucks in reseller department..no one is willing to go the xtra mile anymore..and some hike up the prices so much..its insane..
example my phanteks..it was listed for 899..but just because i ddnt do a eft they nailed me for 1299+ 299 for shipping..
theyve got amzing deals..but hike up prices..example a pre buit i5 gtx760 pc..it will be listed around 10-16k..but if you change any parts (and you can) they dont subtratct that parts amount and add the new part price..
they keep that listed price.and add ontop of it the changed items price
example:
i5 4670k
h97 mobo -+:1200****
gtx760

***now once you change it to say a z97 board like the z97 gaming 5..
they take the listed pc price + diff mobos
= 16k + 3k= 19k..then shipping + tax..

dont get me started on fans...

the only place i could find who sold TY & cougar fans...replied..sorry no stock atm
and wont be restocking...this is most places response when their actualy telling you to
buzz off and never tried to call the suppliers..

companies here hav forgotten their roots..they all started as a small fry..in their garages..now a days theres no more honour or respect for clients..its just pay me and shut up so i can forget off you attitude..even the high end shops..

ive got a friend who works for one of these places..even he refuses to try get the stuff i want...

i envy overseas pc enthusiasts..most live or are close located to major huge shops..somtimes even right at the door of head offices...


----------



## Axaion

Damn.. that kinda sucks - but if you do manage to find the law about it there.. you can pretty much get the fans sent back for RMA for free, if thats what your law says there.

Sometimes im glad im in Europe heh


----------



## X-PREDATOR

well thats what our sales & consumer laws do say..these rule over any warranty rules of any company and any seller...if a customer isnt happy with an item he/she can claim for new or full refund and its at the discretion of the user if they want to return defective item..the only time a defective item has to be returned is if the seller immediately agrees to a full refund or already has sent a replacement..but if they ask for sending it back first..you can tell them off in a nice way law abiding way..send me whats owed first..

so yeah..i was very happy with owning my cooler knowing ive got a very long warranty..knowing im covered for 5 yrs..but it turns out..i was wrong..
their refusing to setup a xpress exchange for me..which is possible..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> well thats what our sales & consumer laws do say..these rule over any warranty rules of any company and any seller...if a customer isnt happy with an item he/she can claim for new or full refund and its at the discretion of the user if they want to return defective item..the only time a defective item has to be returned is if the seller immediately agrees to a full refund or already has sent a replacement..but if they ask for sending it back first..you can tell them off in a nice way law abiding way..send me whats owed first..
> 
> so yeah..i was very happy with owning my cooler knowing ive got a very long warranty..knowing im covered for 5 yrs..but it turns out..i was wrong..
> their refusing to setup a xpress exchange for me..which is possible..


I have never heard of warranty laws saying a customer can get a full refund over a year after buying product.







Every place I've lived the seller is responsible for warranty in first few months after selling product, and they deal with the manufacturer, not you.

I'm very confused by what you've been saying. You posted to Brian earlier:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by X-PREDATOR
> 
> the fans that came with the cooler was un used till a few months ago..
> ive only tested them in the beginning and a short while used 1 as a case fan
> i removed it after 2weeks..made buzzing noise from day1..i contacted evetech..they said sorry no longer selling phanteks due too inconsistant perfomence..so i tried support on phanteks..they wanted the whole unit..i refused..why send the whole package when under warranty laws im entitled too direct replacement fans..other one was still sealed till recent...then year later..i got board and decided to givem a go as a 3fan config..buzzing noise persisted....
> even at low rpm..turned out to be 1of the two ..so i took it out..
> tried for 3months too get help..no help was given..so i ended up giving the busted fan away to sm1 who was looking for 140mm fan...
> i know..it defeats the purpose too rma request..but after never getting a response..i got a bit annoyed..
> seinh how many others got help because their in more suitable regions of the world-my opinion.


First you say fans are "un used" than "only tested" .. which is used them.

I have no idea why your supplier quit selling Phanteks but "inconsistent performance" was definitely not the reason. Because if that was true why haven't we heard about it?

Phanteks wanted complete unit and you refused to give it to them. When I had problems with a cooler they wanted it. Why shouldn't you be expected to give it to them for a replacement?









You say not response but have said they responded. Can't have it both ways.


----------



## doyll

Didn't read the PM. Just drop this Phanteks bashing. Very few complaints have been voiced about customer support from Phanteks compared to the number of people raving about how well Phanteks has supported them. And we all know it's those with problems who speak up first on the web, not those getting good service.


----------



## Axaion

Yes, lets only talk about the pure postives and ignore the negatives too.

Yes, people with a bad experience usually yell louder, they did after all, have that bad experience.

In all honestly, x-predator should just find the specific law that states his rights as a consumer, and mail it to phanteks, or post it here/PM it to the phanteks rep.
If hes indeed right, and they should by law do as hes said, then theres not really anything to talk about, at all.

Just my point of view on it, i know if i got told i had to pay postage for an RMA here, id copy paste the law directly here on the forum, for the world to see









But im an annoying customer i guess


----------



## X-PREDATOR

guys my intent was never to talk trash as Doyllan thinks im doing..
im unhappy about a service that ive been battling with for over a year to try and sort out..and yes i did talk to the rep in private..and yes i did apologise to him if he thuaght i was being slandering their.name..and in good faith..i wasnt..
if a member here has a personal issue or doesnt like me...yeah you doyllan...he or she can keep it to themself please from now on..im here to help..be helped+make friends..and if thats such a crime to you D..
then thats your issue..you live with it and keep it to yourself from now on...please..
ive had enough fights growing up..with my farther..with backstabbers..

OC.net has made me believe i can keep trotting on..to pick myself up from the ground again..but im feeling very dissapointed that 1 guy with a personal vandetta against me..just cant grow up and let it go...

im begging..please stop..


----------



## LGxStarburst

i say the whole thing is just blown out of proportion.. cheers mates. its over. lets move on please.....

SO i was wondering if anyone else had any issues with the bottom fins wanting to come off... i was messing with my cooler the other day and noticed one of the bottom fins was loose and almost liek it wanted to come off. its weird


----------



## doyll

"Beating a dead horse" comes to mind.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LGxStarburst*
> 
> i say the whole thing is just blown out of proportion.. cheers mates. its over. lets move on please.....
> 
> SO i was wondering if anyone else had any issues with the bottom fins wanting to come off... i was messing with my cooler the other day and noticed one of the bottom fins was loose and almost liek it wanted to come off. its weird


How old is your cooler? I had a similar thing happen, but it never came off. Could do a chat session on Phanteks website and see what they suggest.


----------



## spenceaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LGxStarburst*
> 
> i say the whole thing is just blown out of proportion.. cheers mates. its over. lets move on please.....
> 
> SO i was wondering if anyone else had any issues with the bottom fins wanting to come off... i was messing with my cooler the other day and noticed one of the bottom fins was loose and almost liek it wanted to come off. its weird


my first one i bought came with these pins bent out on the top and it was loose



, i tried to fix them with a flathead screwdriver and they just fell off then the whole panel popped off so i exchanged it. they also only sent 1 fan in the box lol, but yeah that might the the problem


----------



## LGxStarburst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> "Beating a dead horse" comes to mind.
> How old is your cooler? I had a similar thing happen, but it never came off. Could do a chat session on Phanteks website and see what they suggest.


eh i got it second hand from an ebay source.. (because im too poor to afford new lol ) but its just the flaps bent as the other guy just recently noted. its no issue to me because the loose part is low and its not the top panel that says phanteks







plus until i do the mods on my pc i probably wont be messing with it anytime soon. I actually have to test an AIO soon so ill be removing it and when i do ill figure out what the issue is and try to resolve it then


----------



## spenceaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LGxStarburst*
> 
> eh i got it second hand from an ebay source.. (because im too poor to afford new lol ) but its just the flaps bent as the other guy just recently noted. its no issue to me because the loose part is low and its not the top panel that says phanteks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> plus until i do the mods on my pc i probably wont be messing with it anytime soon. I actually have to test an AIO soon so ill be removing it and when i do ill figure out what the issue is and try to resolve it then


, yeah id recommend throwing some glue on them to keep them for rattling, dont try and bend them i like i did, the only reason i did is because i was gunna send it back anyway because they sent me 1 fan and it was damaged but i thought id try to fix it for fun


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spenceaj*
> 
> my first one i bought came with these pins bent out on the top and it was loose
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , i tried to fix them with a flathead screwdriver and they just fell off then the whole panel popped off so i exchanged it. they also only sent 1 fan in the box lol, but yeah that might the the problem


Yea that seems to be a common problem. A few of the PH-TC14PEs I went through had loose top plates. One of mine popped off as well. I managed to very carefully bend the little metal tabs and get it secured properly.


----------



## LGxStarburst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Yea that seems to be a common problem. A few of the PH-TC14PEs I went through had loose top plates. One of mine popped off as well. I managed to very carefully bend the little metal tabs and get it secured properly.


minus that one faulty problem the coolers are PHENOMENAL and i hope they keep a development cycle going on them to improve on what is already an awesome cooler


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LGxStarburst*
> 
> eh i got it second hand from an ebay source.. (because im too poor to afford new lol ) but its just the flaps bent as the other guy just recently noted. its no issue to me because the loose part is low and its not the top panel that says phanteks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> plus until i do the mods on my pc i probably wont be messing with it anytime soon. I actually have to test an AIO soon so ill be removing it and when i do ill figure out what the issue is and try to resolve it then


I hear you on the second hand gear. Most of mine is second hand.







Not sure how Phanteks handles second owner issues.

Phanteks makes some great gear! Still battling it out with 2 other new contenders in a head to head battle. Their cases are exceptional too.

Could I ask you to do me a favor when you test the CLC? Test your TC14PE first and compare the two? Also .. and this is very important .. monitor the temperature of the air going into cooler and radiator. There is usually quite a difference between room temperature and cooler / radiator intake air temperature .. which is why CLCs score so much better than air cooler when in cases compared to in open bench testing.

I consider using room air temperature as base temp when testing in a case to using the temperauture on the patio as a base temp for what my temps are in the house.








The room / patio temp has some effect on cooler intake / house temp, but is not the same.


----------



## LGxStarburst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I hear you on the second hand gear. Most of mine is second hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure how Phanteks handles second owner issues.
> 
> Phanteks makes some great gear! Still battling it out with 2 other new contenders in a head to head battle. Their cases are exceptional too.
> 
> Could I ask you to do me a favor when you test the CLC? Test your TC14PE first and compare the two? Also .. and this is very important .. monitor the temperature of the air going into cooler and radiator. There is usually quite a difference between room temperature and cooler / radiator intake air temperature .. which is why CLCs score so much better than air cooler when in cases compared to in open bench testing.
> 
> I consider using room air temperature as base temp when testing in a case to using the temperauture on the patio as a base temp for what my temps are in the house.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The room / patio temp has some effect on cooler intake / house temp, but is not the same.


I had intended on it. the CLC wont be staying in though it will come back out and be put up until a further time.. ive got to figure out what i want to do . i have the antec 1200 and am debating on the NZXT source 530 or the Phanteks Pro the only problem is funding. but depending on which way i go ill be doing a mod with the case i have now.. lol

but all my testing will be against air style coolers and then ill put my phanteks cooler back in.. I love it


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i agree..

those tabs go from top all the way to the bottom fin from what i can see..each fin has its own tab that grabs on to the next holding each other in place..
my coolers one tower top plate tabs was loose to..took quite a gentle but carefull hand to put it back..must say electric tape wrapped around a flat head screwdriver worked ok..no scratches..no marks..has never came off..
what id like to see is a 8 heatpipe beast from them..a super flat mirror finished base... with true 4pin pwm low power 0.45A 1500rpm non bearing fans....now that gets me week in the knees..

and again im sorry dudes and dudettes..ill be the better man and apologise..for it seems im the only one here not allowed the freedom of speech...

ooh lg..what you got planned for mods?
r yu goin to mod diy the case or cooler?


----------



## LGxStarburst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> i agree..
> 
> those tabs go from top all the way to the bottom fin from what i can see..each fin has its own tab that grabs on to the next holding each other in place..
> my coolers one tower top plate tabs was loose to..took quite a gentle but carefull hand to put it back..must say electric tape wrapped around a flat head screwdriver worked ok..no scratches..no marks..has never came off..
> what id like to see is a 8 heatpipe beast from them..a super flat mirror finished base... with true 4pin pwm low power 0.45A 1500rpm non bearing fans....now that gets me week in the knees..
> 
> and again im sorry dudes and dudettes..ill be the better man and apologise..for it seems im the only one here not allowed the freedom of speech...
> 
> ooh lg..what you got planned for mods?
> r yu goin to mod diy the case or cooler?


im actually going to mod the case (antec) Coc gave me a few ideas from his build log so im going to use the antec to experiment and see if i cant come up with something. this mod will actually make up for the fact i had to scrap my m59 case mod.. i jsut have to get funding down to make this case available first. its my everyday rig an i prefer to have a pc to use on a daily basis. lol


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LGxStarburst*
> 
> I had intended on it. the CLC wont be staying in though it will come back out and be put up until a further time.. ive got to figure out what i want to do . i have the antec 1200 and am debating on the NZXT source 530 or the Phanteks Pro the only problem is funding. but depending on which way i go ill be doing a mod with the case i have now.. lol
> 
> but all my testing will be against air style coolers and then ill put my phanteks cooler back in.. I love it


I hear you. I have Enthoo Primo and want Enthoo Luxe. Primo is quite big.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Pretty sure Pro and Luxe are same case with different fronts and tops. Both have the PWM controlled PSU powered variable voltage 3-pin fan hub which is a $15 accessory, and very handy for controlling up to 11 fans / 30 watts of load.

2nd link in sig shows what I use to monitor cooler / radiator intake air temp.


----------



## LGxStarburst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I hear you. I have Enthoo Primo and want Enthoo Luxe. Primo is quite big.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty sure Pro and Luxe are same case with different fronts and tops. Both have the PWM controlled PSU powered variable voltage 3-pin fan hub which is a $15 accessory, and very handy for controlling up to 11 fans / 30 watts of load.
> 
> 2nd link in sig shows what I use to monitor cooler / radiator intake air temp.


all three of them are amazing.. the pro would be my option since its on the lower end of the price range.. if i had the money for the enthoo primo .. i dont know what i would do i love big huge cases..


----------



## Axaion

Got the new cooler, its the old version with the first fans, alas its not bent, and looks like it should!

ill post an imgur gallery later, was hell taking it all apart and putting back together in 28c with 50%+ humidity

I would have put the phanteks fans (it came with the first ones, with the big bumps on the fins) in the case.. but i only had 5 zipties, so couldent swap in my two TY-147's

Guess im gonna get zipties next!

edit; seems my core1 runs a lot cooler than the rest, did so on the other one too though, before it was 4c lower, its 6c lower now under Intel burn test (max temps 55c, 59c 61c, 62c, 4ghz 1.265v i should really mess with that voltage at some time lol)

did a test mount first, and the paste spread evenly across the whole die, nothing over the side though, so its not like the paste was applied wrongly, guess its just that one core that runs a bit cooler


----------



## Axaion

Huh, you can upload albums here, guess ill use that instead, lol.

heres the pics http://www.overclock.net/g/a/1217779/case-stuff-and-such/

Basicly, i want to make holes in the side, all the way up like it has already, and fit the fan in there, with something.. then put a filter on it, ill obviously have to kill the tentacle monster lying in wait, but itll help on cpu temps, and just airflow a ton i suppose

And just a pic of it all put in.. gonna take it apart later or tomorrow to fit in the TY-147s in the heatsink instead when i get some zipties, so feel free to come with any ideas on anything beforehand!










I might be swayed into buying 2x TY-143's, found a shop here that has them for 20DKK more than than the TY-147's, if i do, ill be able to have this setup
1x 120mm lower front intake
1x 120mm middle front intake
1x140mm top front (as in where the CD-rom and whatnot is.) intake
1x 140mm bottom intake
1x 140mm side panel exhaust
1x 140mm maybe top rear exhaust?, dunno, the case kinda has that frame, so the air will go straight up into the plastic framing, and would most likely recycle back, unless i close off everything else on the top with whatever, thoughts?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

nice looking..
my case
http://www.google.com/search?q=xpredator+black+full+tower&client=ms-opera-mini-android&channel=new&prmd=ivns&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=vg3SU9zNKoXXPIW9gdgG&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ

the top panel is in same boat as you nanoxia is..
the air doesnt get trapped..if theres an opening..(there is from what i saw in pics of reviews on your case)
the hot air will expell..that top is a pop up type thing right?

so if you go with the setup like you said..just flip the side panel fan as intake rather..helps alot to give more air to gpus..plus keeps the airflo more directed in front to back..just keep it at low rpm....

if i may give a tip..the smaller thinner wires..fan wires ect...if the case hsnt enough room/holes at the top for wire routing..run them underneath the mobo itself..ive done it many times.looks very cool plus you dont see the exess wires then..
when you go shopping try look for

http://www.google.com/search?q=deep+cool+fan+hub&client=ms-opera-mini-android&channel=new&prmd=ivns&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=uw_SU5ivJIfZPODdgbAH&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ

itll make things alot simpler for your fan control..i mod mine..split the pwm+rpm from the 12v..works gorgously..theres others like it too..akasa..swiftech etc..with even 8way splitters..

btw..nice cooler bro..blue realy looks good that case


----------



## doyll

I use TY-143s .. but they never run faster than 1200rpm .. and that was when it was 28c. Normal max is 1050rpm @ 44-50c in 22-23c room. That's under very heavy load rendering graphics.
First two TY-143s were from a trade or 3x PH-F140TS_RD fans off PH-TC14PE_RD. The TY-143 red matches cooler nicely and I wanted PWM fans.
 

Also looks good with TY-147s, but don't have a pic.


----------



## spenceaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axaion*
> 
> Got the new cooler, its the old version with the first fans, alas its not bent, and looks like it should!
> 
> ill post an imgur gallery later, was hell taking it all apart and putting back together in 28c with 50%+ humidity
> 
> I would have put the phanteks fans (it came with the first ones, with the big bumps on the fins) in the case.. but i only had 5 zipties, so couldent swap in my two TY-147's
> 
> Guess im gonna get zipties next!
> 
> edit; seems my core1 runs a lot cooler than the rest, did so on the other one too though, before it was 4c lower, its 6c lower now under Intel burn test (max temps 55c, 59c 61c, 62c, 4ghz 1.265v i should really mess with that voltage at some time lol)
> 
> did a test mount first, and the paste spread evenly across the whole die, nothing over the side though, so its not like the paste was applied wrongly, guess its just that one core that runs a bit cooler


my core 1 was like 7 lower aswell haha


----------



## Axaion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> nice looking..
> my case
> http://www.google.com/search?q=xpredator+black+full+tower&client=ms-opera-mini-android&channel=new&prmd=ivns&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=vg3SU9zNKoXXPIW9gdgG&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ
> 
> the top panel is in same boat as you nanoxia is..
> the air doesnt get trapped..if theres an opening..(there is from what i saw in pics of reviews on your case)
> the hot air will expell..that top is a pop up type thing right?
> 
> so if you go with the setup like you said..just flip the side panel fan as intake rather..helps alot to give more air to gpus..plus keeps the airflo more directed in front to back..just keep it at low rpm....
> 
> if i may give a tip..the smaller thinner wires..fan wires ect...if the case hsnt enough room/holes at the top for wire routing..run them underneath the mobo itself..ive done it many times.looks very cool plus you dont see the exess wires then..
> when you go shopping try look for
> 
> http://www.google.com/search?q=deep+cool+fan+hub&client=ms-opera-mini-android&channel=new&prmd=ivns&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=uw_SU5ivJIfZPODdgbAH&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ
> 
> itll make things alot simpler for your fan control..i mod mine..split the pwm+rpm from the 12v..works gorgously..theres others like it too..akasa..swiftech etc..with even 8way splitters..
> 
> btw..nice cooler bro..blue realy looks good that case


my GPU cooler is the type that throws all the hot air around itself, my logic says that its better to have the bottom fans air somewhat drawn towards it, and the side getting rid of the hot air so it flows right next to it?

The case does in fact have a fan controller for 6 fans, but its 3 pin only, the bundle of smaller cables on top, is from an akasa pwm splitter actually, have it set to get pwm to two TY-147's, and have the phanteks fans (which wont work with pwm, at all.) on the 2nd CPU header, which copies the PWM into voltage control (lucky me)


----------



## X-PREDATOR

ok cool..
well so was my gpu..twin frozr ii cooler..
same thing..i had my side fans as exit..turnd them to intake immefiately..
ok granted i have alot of openings in the case for air to come/go as it pleases..
your strategy makes sense but how close is the side fan located to the bottom?
if its not to close your logic will work..
if the fans close..then the side will draw out not just hot air but cooler air before it even reaches its destination


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> ok cool..
> well so was my gpu..twin frozr ii cooler..
> same thing..i had my side fans as exit..turnd them to intake immefiately..
> ok granted i have alot of openings in the case for air to come/go as it pleases..
> your strategy makes sense but how close is the side fan located to the bottom?
> if its not to close your logic will work..
> if the fans close..then the side will draw out not just hot air but cooler air before it even reaches its destination


I have GTX 780 Classified in SLI with the ACX coolers that dump hot air into the case. I have a 140mm bottom intake on my case. I had my side fan as an intake to blow on the graphics cards, but they were still really hot. I switched the side fan to an exhaust and my GPU core temps dropped about 6C.

People just need to play around with it and see what works.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

true....


----------



## X-PREDATOR

has any 1 looked at their coolers from the front 5.25 area of case and it looks like the cooler is saggaing downwards towards pcie area
i know it isnt..but just a weird thaught?


----------



## Axaion

Well yes, i even took a picture of it, you just gotta ignore the tentacle montster in front of it, its in my gallery i linked when i posted the full case image before.
brings me back to, whats the best way to make them holes on the side with?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

dremel tool or a 4-5mm thin drill bit ..drill small holes..first make a template on trace/sketch paper..make sure to get some scotch tape etc..to tape up the area your working on to prevent any damages..
i suggest yo to youtube search mn pc tech..bill owen..youll see plenty guides for mods..gives ya a good idea..+look under mods section on ocn..lotsa info..


----------



## BKinn

I took a slightly better photo of my Node 804 with the cooler installed. I've posted it before but my Gene V broke so I took another photo now that I got a new board.


----------



## doyll

Looks very nice!

How much clearance is there between GPU and cooler intake fan? Looks rather close. Should have 30+ mm clearance. More is better. 140mm fan has about 140 sq cm of flow area. 30mm wide gap from motherboard up over top of fan and back to motherboard is 126sq cm .. 35mm is 147sq cm. of airflow area.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

that looks so sexy..no bad pun intended...cant blieve it all actualy goes in there..
if i may ???..why not have the cooler pointing towards the rear? that case looks like itll fit like that???

just a ?? nice gold black colour..think i might have to copy cat this colour scheme 1day..


----------



## BKinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks very nice!
> 
> How much clearance is there between GPU and cooler intake fan? Looks rather close. Should have 30+ mm clearance. More is better. 140mm fan has about 140 sq cm of flow area. 30mm wide gap from motherboard up over top of fan and back to motherboard is 126sq cm .. 35mm is 147sq cm. of airflow area.


Not sure on exact measurements but my temps are perfectly fine in this. Just slightly warmer than my R4.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> that looks so sexy..no bad pun intended...cant blieve it all actualy goes in there..
> if i may ???..why not have the cooler pointing towards the rear? that case looks like itll fit like that???
> 
> just a ?? nice gold black colour..think i might have to copy cat this colour scheme 1day..


I didn't want it towards the rear mainly because I didn't want it to cover my RAM. Plus, the fans would have to be in pull/pull if it was towards the rear because I wouldn't be able to put a fan over the RAM. With it facing this way, the bottom and middle fan both push and the cooler is fairly close to the top case fans so they pull the hot air right out as well. I've just always preferred it this way, even in my previous case. There was no difference in temps so it's just visual preference.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

cool..was just curious cause..of the size of the case and those front fans pushing air in..what rams you got?

im thinking of trying some 18 "or 2400hz kit..or isnt there much benefit goin from 1600 16gb to 16gb 2400hz?just thinking out loud here


----------



## BKinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> cool..was just curious cause..of the size of the case and those front fans pushing air in..what rams you got?
> 
> im thinking of trying some 18 "or 2400hz kit..or isnt there much benefit goin from 1600 16gb to 16gb 2400hz?just thinking out loud here


My current kit is 12GB (used to be 16GB but a stick went bad when I powder coated them). It runs 7-7-7-21 1600. I'm not all that knowledgeable with RAM but I do wish that I would have bought a different 16GB kit. I would prefer something closer to 2400. I think the best way to do it is to just pick a price point and see what is the fastest RAM you can get at that cost. Otherwise you'll constantly be looking at kits higher up. You could always OC too but I have no experience with this.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

argh..i was just reminissing on the idea bro..
i looked at you setup again..see what you meant with top fans..im realy liking the size of this pc..so powerfull but small..loving it dude..


----------



## Axaion

Got some zip ties, so yeah



And it seems i can make the phanteks fans fit in the 5.25" bay, too bad theyre loud as **** for the air they push though, no where near the noise/performance of the Ty-147's its laughable


----------



## X-PREDATOR

lookng good bro
yeah the ph fans are more pressure optimized fans than airflo fans...


----------



## Axaion

Not even, theyre more noise optimized fans than anything compared to the ty-147's haha
too bad i cant really fit in a ty-147 on the top, theyre slightly bigger overall
now just to actuallty get a fan filter and make those holes


----------



## doyll

The TY-140 series fans are definitely an exceptional fan. But PH-F140 series are better than most out there.

TY-140 series can be made square.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22319171


----------



## Axaion

Its the 1st version fans on the cooler, they most likely changed them for a reason? (the ones with the big bumps on the blades)

Yeah, ive seen that post, but yet again, dont have the tools for it =\

for the time being i just stuck them on the case fan controller, and put them on about 10% out of 100% on that (so theyre most likely running around 5-6v)

The silverstone fan filters are actually the cheapest i could find here too! ^^


----------



## X-PREDATOR

nice man..why not try it differently..
put the ph fan in the middle of the cooler...then one ty on front of cooler..then one ty fan in 5.25 bay i.stead..and so forth..
im getting a set of cm blademasters soon..goin to use just 1 on the front of cooler and so on..


----------



## Axaion

I see.. no reason for even attempting that with the reviews i saw, where they tested it with thermalright, noctua and the standard fans - thermalrights won every time as far as i recall.

Why blademasters though?, the one that was on my hyper 212+ was horrific compared to the ty-147's noise wise


----------



## X-PREDATOR

im getting them as a gift from friend..
just goin to remove my one 120 from cooler and use the blademaster there or just put them on my rads..


----------



## gasolin

Can' get it to work with the Y splitter and the 4 pin cpu fan header on my Asrock Z77 extreme 6 mb, if i use both cpu fan headers (3/4) one fan is always at max rpm and using only 1 cpu fan header and the y spiltter they won't spin


----------



## doyll

Are your fans 4-pin or 3-pin? Is the 'Y' splitter 3-pin or 4-pin?


----------



## gasolin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Are your fans 4-pin or 3-pin? Is the 'Y' splitter 3-pin or 4-pin?


3 pin fans, the y splitter is 3 pin but the low noise adapter is 4 pin

I think none of the cpu fan headers (even when my mb is not a budget mb) can give enough power for 2 fans, they won't spin when the 2 fans are connected to 1 cpu fan header


----------



## doyll

You should have a PWM adapter with 4-pin plug and 3-pin socket. Plug the 4-pin plug on PWM adapter into CPU fan header on motherboard ( for PWM signal & power), then plug the Y-splitter into the 3-pin socket on the PWM adapter, them plug the 3-pin fans into the 3-pin Y-splitter sockets.

My guess is the 4-pin CPU fan header is PWM and the fan plugged into it will run full speed all the time because it is supplying constant 12v power to the fan. The PWM adapter will read the PWM signal from pin-4 and regulate the power going to fan. You can try just the PWM adapter and fan first and see if this allows you to control the fan speed.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

cpu pwm 4pin headers..
are able to handle 3-4fans before its to heavy for power and the pwm signal cant work anymore properly..
best bet is to make/buy a proper fan hub that gets power from psu and then pwm from mobo..
like from swiftech..
akasa
nzxt sentry 10fan hub..
i recently got a cheapy..4*4pin (3pin compatible) from deepcool..i just split the rpm pwm & 12v..works great..
but for total unified pwm to work on all fans to work..make sure
all your fans are identical..
i tested this out yesterday with cm bladeM & xtra flos..ddnt go to well as the xflos are higher rated power fans @ 0.75+amps vs 0.39 on the bladeM..
i set it up precisely same as before..the xflos ran at correct % @ 37% 1300rpm..but the bladeM at same was running wrong at 600rpm..but when i unplugged the xflos and the 12v supply..the bladeM went back up correctly


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> cpu pwm 4pin headers..
> are able to handle 3-4fans before its to heavy for power and the pwm signal cant work anymore properly..
> best bet is to make/buy a proper fan hub that gets power from psu and then pwm from mobo..
> like from swiftech..
> akasa
> nzxt sentry 10fan hub..
> i recently got a cheapy..4*4pin (3pin compatible) from deepcool..i just split the rpm pwm & 12v..works great..
> but for total unified pwm to work on all fans to work..make sure
> all your fans are identical..
> i tested this out yesterday with cm bladeM & xtra flos..ddnt go to well as the xflos are higher rated power fans @ 0.75+amps vs 0.39 on the bladeM..
> i set it up precisely same as before..the xflos ran at correct % @ 37% 1300rpm..but the bladeM at same was running wrong at 600rpm..but when i unplugged the xflos and the 12v supply..the bladeM went back up correctly


Please stop with these kinds of answers. Too many unexplained and untrue statements

3-4 fans mean nothing.
Fan headers can handle about 1amp / 12watts of load.
PWM signal will run 7-10 fans before problems occur.
NZXT Grid 10-Channel Fan Hub is only a 12v powered fan hub for 3-pin fans and has no speed control.
PWM fans do not all need to be "identical". I run Noctua, Cryorig, Thermalright and Akasa fans of different models on same PWM hub / splitter with no problems.


----------



## gasolin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You should have a PWM adapter with 4-pin plug and 3-pin socket. Plug the 4-pin plug on PWM adapter into CPU fan header on motherboard ( for PWM signal & power), then plug the Y-splitter into the 3-pin socket on the PWM adapter, them plug the 3-pin fans into the 3-pin Y-splitter sockets.
> 
> My guess is the 4-pin CPU fan header is PWM and the fan plugged into it will run full speed all the time because it is supplying constant 12v power to the fan. The PWM adapter will read the PWM signal from pin-4 and regulate the power going to fan. You can try just the PWM adapter and fan first and see if this allows you to control the fan speed.


Dosn't work, using one fan and the pwm fan adapter in the 4 pin cpu fan header dosn't work, it always spins at max rpm.

I can't connect 2 fans to 1 cpu fan header beacuse they won't spin. Connect one fan to the 3 pin cpu fan header and the last fan on the 4 pin cpu fan header,they won't spin

Using both fans, the 3 pin y splitter and the 3 pin cpu fan header they won't spin.

Using both fans, the y splitter,pwm fan adapter in the 4 pin cpu header they don't spin

1 fan in each cpu fan header they don't spin

Chassi fan 1 (4 pin)can be adjusted according to cpu temps so i use 1 fan with the pwm fan adapter connected to the chassi fan 1, it just won't adjust to cpu temps, according to asrock extreme tuning utility the fan alway runs about 1050 rpm even doing benchmark prime 95 it stay at 1050 rpm the other cpu fan is connect to the 3 pin cpu fan header and goes up and down in rpm according to cpu temps.

The last option is not good, i want it to be silent most of the time with both fans running at 750-900 rpm and to have both fans spin at max rpm doing benchmark or a demanding game


----------



## doyll

Sounds like your Bios is not configured properly .. or it's a PICNIC problem.










problem in chair, not in computer


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by X-PREDATOR View Post
> 
> cpu pwm 4pin headers..
> are able to handle 3-4fans before its to heavy for power and the pwm signal cant work anymore properly..
> best bet is to make/buy a proper fan hub that gets power from psu and then pwm from mobo..
> like from swiftech..
> akasa
> nzxt sentry 10fan hub..


Motherboard fan headers are usually rated to handle up to 1 amp / 12 watts.

For example *TY-143 fans are rated 0.6A. Using 2 of them is 1.2A / 14.4w load / draw on a fan header. That is 0.2A / 2.4w more than 1amp / 12 watts* fan header is rated to handle. Thermalright supplied their coolers using TY-143 fans with a PSU powered PWM splitter because just the *2* of them can burn out a fan header.

As for PWM siganl problems, the Swiftech PWM fan hub supports 8 fans on the PWM signal from motherboard. There is not PWM signal booster or anything else in the hub.

*The problem is not the PWM signal. The problem is trying to draw more power from the fan headers than they can supply.*


----------



## gasolin

This newer phanteks cpu cooler is rated at 0.24 a or 2.8 volt http://www.phanteks.com/PH-TC14PE.html, the cpu cooler http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F140TS.html is rated at 0.15 a and 1.8 volt s0 2 fans shouldn't be close to 1 amp and 12 v to start spinning


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasolin*
> 
> This newer phanteks cpu cooler is rated at 0.24 a or 2.8 volt http://www.phanteks.com/PH-TC14PE.html, the cpu cooler http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F140TS.html is rated at 0.15 a and 1.8 volt s0 2 fans shouldn't be close to 1 amp and 12 v to start spinning


Cooler uses no power, but fans do .. and new PH-TC14PE coolers uses PH-F140HP PWM fans that sare each rated Input power of 2.8 watts or 0.24 amp at 12 volts. Volts times amps equals watts. The original PH-TC14PE cooler used PH-F140TS fans each rated 0.15 or 1.8 watts, 0.15 amp at 12 volts.


----------



## gasolin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Cooler uses no power, but fans do .. and new PH-TC14PE coolers uses PH-F140HP PWM fans that sare each rated Input power of 2.8 watts or 0.24 amp at 12 volts. Volts times amps equals watts. The original PH-TC14PE cooler used PH-F140TS fans each rated 0.15 or 1.8 watts, 0.15 amp at 12 volts.


I know the newer cpu cooler with the newer fans starts at very low volt/amp .

Watch a youtube video so i now know how to adjust fan settings/speed, how should i connect my fans to my mb to get both fans to respond to speedfan 4.49 (if possible) atm chassi fan 1 is connected to 1 fan with pwm fan adapter and 1 fan on the 3 pin cpu fan header, again 1 fan runs at rpm above 1000rpm (fan connected to chassi fan 1) but do change if i take at stress tes,benchmark ibt/prime 95

Have 2 (3/4pin) cpu fan header,1x3pin and 2x4pins chassi fan


----------



## doyll

With very rare exception the only motherboard fan header that is PWM signal controlled is the CPU fan header and sometimes the CPU opt header You can use the supplied 4-pin PWM splitter to connect both F140HP fans to CPU fan header.

As for why you cannot control the fans my guess is as I said before. Something in your Bios is not set properly.


----------



## 66racer

Guys let's keep thing cool and on topic here. Let's be polite with constructive posts as well.

As far as the fan problem. Almost sounds like a bios setting that its in pwm mode and since your using a 3 pin it should be set to voltage control rather than pwm. Pwm fans can opperste with voltage control but its not recommended and apparently shortens their life.

I personally never advise running more than 1 fan per mobo header. Operating loads might fall within spec but startup load is usually much higher than operating load. Not all fans report start load but its possible its exceeding the headers spec and shutting down the fan header. Just an idea.


----------



## Axaion

son of a.. i cant get two TY-143's then, as i have 6 fans hooked up to the horrible akasa splitter and want to get the Gelid one thats way better


----------



## doyll

I've had problems with wires breaking off of the Akasa PWM splitters. I like the Swiftech 8-way PWM fan hub, but if fan leads are not long enough the Gelid works very well. I've used them more than any other with no problems.
http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter-sata.aspx

When using 3-pin fans I like the Phanteks PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub.
http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-fan-hub


----------



## Axaion

Obviously a 3pin wont work with Thermalrights

Plan to put two TY-143 on the Phanteks Cooler, and have the following:
2x 120mm nanoxia Fans as two lower front intakes (majorly blocked by hdd cages.) hooked up to the fan controller in the case
1x TY-147 upper FRONT intake, if i can get it to fit, plugged into PWM splitter.
1x TY-147 Bottom intake plugged into PWM splitter
1x TY-147 Side panel exhaust plugged into PWM splitter
1x Nanoxia 140mm Rear exhaust plugged into Nanoxia fan controller
2x TY-143 on Phanteks cooler, plugged into PWM splitter (as apparently they need to be powered and just plugging them into an Y-splitter would murder the poor mobo fan header.)

1 fan too many for the Gelid it seems. the akasa does work, but holy **** its annoying as hell to manage too.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

just get a bigger or stronger fan controller like a lamptron fc5 v2/3 or the new touch or even the bitfenix recon..it might not be rated as high power out..but ive seen on youtube..Ronsanut..daisy chains fans on his on a single channel without issues..


----------



## doyll

You coulld use a plain PWM Y-splitter onto one of your PWM splitters with power.


----------



## Axaion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You coulld use a plain PWM Y-splitter onto one of your PWM splitters with power.


Welp, ill just use the pwm y-splitter that came with the phanteks cooler then, should net the 5 pwm connections id need


----------



## X-PREDATOR

http://www.google.com/m?q=deepcool+fan+hub&client=ms-opera-mini-android&channel=new

try this..you can split the rpm/pwm from the 12v..then hook up multiple splitters without a glitch..you can even hook it up so that the speeds controled by you current fancontroller and powered by psu seperately..3 *4 pin fans are both supported..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axaion*
> 
> Welp, ill just use the pwm y-splitter that came with the phanteks cooler then, should net the 5 pwm connections id need


Problem solved!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> http://www.google.com/m?q=deepcool+fan+hub&client=ms-opera-mini-android&channel=new
> try this..you can split the rpm/pwm from the 12v..then hook up multiple splitters without a glitch..you can even hook it up so that the speeds controled by you current fancontroller and powered by psu seperately..3 *4 pin fans are both supported..


That would work if you re-wired it with a sata / molex connector on the +12v & ground leads. The Swiftech 8-way PWM hub has all of that out of the box.


----------



## Axaion

To be fair to @doyll here, he assumed i was not going to solder, or mod a hub, when ive previously stated that i do not have any sodlering expertise, or even have soldering gear.

Which would make your suggestion, kinda moot (also, it costs more here in denmark, than two 4x pwm splitters.)

edit; just ordered two 143's, only one shop in denmark had them, 15usd per fan, sadly shipping was 15usd too heh


----------



## gasolin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axaion*
> 
> Obviously a 3pin wont work with Thermalrights
> 
> Plan to put two TY-143 on the Phanteks Cooler, and have the following:
> 2x 120mm nanoxia Fans as two lower front intakes (majorly blocked by hdd cages.) hooked up to the fan controller in the case
> 1x TY-147 upper FRONT intake, if i can get it to fit, plugged into PWM splitter.
> 1x TY-147 Bottom intake plugged into PWM splitter
> 1x TY-147 Side panel exhaust plugged into PWM splitter
> 1x Nanoxia 140mm Rear exhaust plugged into Nanoxia fan controller
> 2x TY-143 on Phanteks cooler, plugged into PWM splitter (as apparently they need to be powered and just plugging them into an Y-splitter would murder the poor mobo fan header.)
> 
> 1 fan too many for the Gelid it seems. the akasa does work, but holy **** its annoying as hell to manage too.


Why so many fans, because you can or do you using your pc to cool beer (or hoooot cpu) with?

I only have 4 aditional fans in my nanoxia case besides the phantek fans and the 2 on my msi gpu


----------



## Axaion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasolin*
> 
> Why so many fans, because you can or do you using your pc to cool beer( or hoooot cpu) with?
> 
> I only have 4 aditional fans in my nanoxia case besides the phantek fans and the 2 on my msi gpu


Yes, cpu running very hot at 60~ c under not silly prime95 load, but IBT

My HDD cages block the airflow from the two front nanoxia fans, i dont suppose you have yours in, and filled up.

Also rather have a bit more cooling with fans that dont really make any noise, than have a few fans spin up to maximum overherp


----------



## gasolin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axaion*
> 
> Yes, cpu running very hot at 60~ c under not silly prime95 load, but IBT
> 
> My HDD cages block the airflow from the two front nanoxia fans, i dont suppose you have yours in, and filled up.
> 
> Also rather have a bit more cooling with fans that dont really make any noise, than have a few fans spin up to maximum overherp


Not the top ones

Which cpu? A sandy and ivy bridge cpu may get 85-90 degress hot (limited is higher) so 60 is nothing (not shure about the socket 1155) http://www.overclock.net/t/1198504/complete-overclocking-guide-sandy-bridge-ivy-bridge-asrock-edition


----------



## Axaion

Because i like my stuff not the be not burning hot like hell, also keeps it more stable.

Pretty sure that was a given with "Id rather have better cooling than worse"


----------



## Axaion

seems i nabbed the last two Ty-143 available in denmark, hah.

Boy do these suckers get loud if you allow them to go half special day care needs.

Probably my motherboard, but lowest setting is 870~ rpm, just bare inaudiable, so just flerped the bios setting so it would ramp up later to keep noise down a bit.

Sadly the CPU runs a bit hotter then, as it hits 1100~ rpm max at 63c compared to 61-62c - not much bit a slight difference


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axaion*
> 
> seems i nabbed the last two Ty-143 available in denmark, hah.
> 
> Boy do these suckers get loud if you allow them to go half special day care needs.
> 
> Probably my motherboard, but lowest setting is 870~ rpm, just bare inaudiable, so just flerped the bios setting so it would ramp up later to keep noise down a bit.
> 
> Sadly the CPU runs a bit hotter then, as it hits 1100~ rpm max at 63c compared to 61-62c - not much bit a slight difference


Do you mean 1100rpm with TY-143 is 63c, but with stock PH-F140HP at 1100rpm it was 61-62c?


----------



## Axaion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Do you mean 1100rpm with TY-143 is 63c, but with stock PH-F140HP at 1100rpm it was 61-62c?


ty-143 vs ty-147

Small difference really, within margin of error


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axaion*
> 
> ty-143 vs ty-147
> 
> Small difference really, within margin of error


Something else must be slightly different, like maybe when you changed the fans you wiggled the cooler a little and changed the TIM seat every so slightly? Fans have same impeller, so at same rpm will deliver the same air.
Both have same airflow at same rpm. Same performance up to 1300rpm. But like that the Energizer Bunny, the TY-143just keeps on going.


----------



## Axaion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Something else must be slightly different, like maybe when you changed the fans you wiggled the cooler a little and changed the TIM seat every so slightly? Fans have same impeller, so at same rpm will deliver the same air.
> Both have same airflow at same rpm. Same performance up to 1300rpm. But like that the Energizer Bunny, the TY-143just keeps on going.


Well its hard to say really, im sure if i test it now itll be slightly lower, actualy hang on ill run IBT.

1273RPM max (fan control said 93%, due to bios settings, i set the thermal target to 56c IIRC, so it wont spin up to 1700RPM instantly)

core 1 58C
core 2 60C
core 3 62C
core 4 62C

According to Open Hardware monitor, the CPU topped out at 102w used (4ghz 2500k 1.262v)

Doubt i messed up the thermal paste, the cooler is locked down pretty well, with that mount.


----------



## doyll

I'm sure it's fine. Do you notice any other differences between TY-147 and TY-143?


----------



## Axaion

Yeah, it seems to be red, where the 147 is black and white, im not sure but maybe they took the skin off some indian dude or something.

In all seriousness though, no it seems to be the same as the 147, except it goes faster if i allow it to, somehow fiddling with the bios for temp range i can make the fan max out at around 1273 rpm


----------



## gasolin

Is it only because of noise you change fans?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axaion*
> 
> Yeah, it seems to be red, where the 147 is black and white, im not sure but maybe they took the skin off some indian dude or something.
> 
> In all seriousness though, no it seems to be the same as the 147, except it goes faster if i allow it to, somehow fiddling with the bios for temp range i can make the fan max out at around 1273 rpm


I have mine set to run at 900-1150rpm at 45-55c. And that is as hot as it ever gets even on 28c days.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasolin*
> 
> Is it only because of noise you change fans?


I had original PH-F140TS non-PWM fans so put a couple of TY-140 fans I had on. A mate had a Silver Arrow SB-E Extreme and wanted red & white fans so I traded my F140TS fans for his TY-143 fan. They look good on my red TC14PE cooler.









I have used some the speed performance a few times when clocking my i7-920, but on the i7 980 is plenty fast without any OC.


----------



## Axaion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have mine set to run at 900-1150rpm at 45-55c. And that is as hot as it ever gets even on 28c days.
> I had original PH-F140TS non-PWM fans so put a couple of TY-140 fans I had on. A mate had a Silver Arrow SB-E Extreme and wanted red & white fans so I traded my F140TS fans for his TY-143 fan. They look good on my red TC14PE cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have used some the speed performance a few times when clocking my i7-920, but on the i7 980 is plenty fast without any OC.


does that include Intel burn test (just GUI for Linpack iirc?)

Because prime95 puts less stress on it than IBT does, let alone games and such heh

Even though my 2500k is at 4GHz, it seems very hot compared, i did add the front top intake, now a ty-147 which pushes air directly to the CPU


----------



## Axaion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasolin*
> 
> Is it only because of noise you change fans?


Mostly yeah, the stock fans on it are kinda loud for the performance they have, at least the 1st revision fans does


----------



## gasolin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axaion*
> 
> Mostly yeah, the stock fans on it are kinda loud for the performance they have, at least the 1st revision fans does


I feel The Phantek cpu cooler starts where My thermalright True spirit 140 stops (it's very quiet) might be because of 2 fans, but i do want to keep it under 1000rpm to make it quiet.

I have the white and black Ty-147 is it just using the standard brackets and then i can use the thermalright fan ? (they are for shure very quiet)


----------



## Axaion

Yes and no, you have to use some zip ties, doyll usually drops a link for how to do it, but you do use the metal brackets yeah, its just that the plugs from the phanteks fans dont fit in the thermalright fans, the ones that you put the metal bracket through.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axaion*
> 
> I have used some the speed performance a few times when clocking my i7-920, but on the i7 980 is plenty fast without any OC.


does that include Intel burn test (just GUI for Linpack iirc?)

Because prime95 puts less stress on it than IBT does, let alone games and such heh

Even though my 2500k is at 4GHz, it seems very hot compared, i did add the front top intake, now a ty-147 which pushes air directly to the CPU[/quote]
That includes all cores at 100% with whatever program I run. Just did it again to be sure. Fan idle is 720rpm and max was 952rpm. Temps went up to maximums of 41, 46, 41, 42, 49 & 44c. Obviously almost no volume change in system.









The hardest load I run is encoding videos. If I give it all the power it wants then only program functioning is encoder.







If I try to cancel it can take several minutes to acknowledge the command .. same as IBT.


----------



## Axaion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> does that include Intel burn test (just GUI for Linpack iirc?)
> 
> Because prime95 puts less stress on it than IBT does, let alone games and such heh
> 
> Even though my 2500k is at 4GHz, it seems very hot compared, i did add the front top intake, now a ty-147 which pushes air directly to the CPU
> 
> That includes all cores at 100% with whatever program I run. Just did it again to be sure. Fan idle is 720rpm and max was 952rpm. Temps went up to maximums of 41, 46, 41, 42, 49 & 44c. Obviously almost no volume change in system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hardest load I run is encoding videos. If I give it all the power it wants then only program functioning is encoder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I try to cancel it can take several minutes to acknowledge the command .. same as IBT.


Weird, IBT stops the second i cancel it

Maybe my room and case is just that much hotter than yours, sadly i need a thermometer to check it.. hopefully they have one same place as fan filters next time i order something.

Mine idles around 28-32c from core to core and goes up to 58-63c from coldest to hottest with 1273 rpm max

Obviously yours never spins up because it never hits the thermal target, but mine seems to do so, even with no case side on so airflow cant be -that- bad

edit: seems the quote system is broken lol


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axaion*
> 
> Maybe my room and case is just that much hotter than yours, sadly i need a thermometer to check it.. hopefully they have one same place as fan filters next time i order something.
> 
> Mine idles around 28-32c from core to core and goes up to 58-63c from coldest to hottest with 1273 rpm max
> 
> Obviously yours never spins up because it never hits the thermal target, but mine seems to do so, even with no case side on so airflow cant be -that- bad
> 
> edit: seems the quote system is broken lol


Well, we don't have the same system .. and even if we did they don't always perform the same. ET6 is set 30% @ 30c and 100% @ 70c. No other way-points.


----------



## doyll

I was playing with fans on NH-D15 and PH-TC14PE and found both coolers very similar in performance .. as are Cryorig R1 Ultimate and Silver Arrow SB-E & IB-E on my i7 920. I was just reading Xbit Laboratories review of Phanteks PH-TC14PE and NH-D15 and they had same results:

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/noctua-nh-d15_5.html


----------



## Axaion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I was playing with fans on NH-D15 and PH-TC14PE and found both coolers very similar in performance .. as are Cryorig R1 Ultimate and Silver Arrow SB-E & IB-E on my i7 920. I was just reading Xbit Laboratories review of Phanteks PH-TC14PE and NH-D15 and they had same results:


Well those temps, and RPMs looked way closer to my system than yours, they do have lower voltage than mine, but haslel runs a bit hotter than sb iirc.

Out of curiosity, what does Open HW monitor say your CPU draws in wattage under full load when it tested?, mine said 102.6w on package

I really need that cheapo thermo to test stuff


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axaion*
> 
> Well those temps, and RPMs looked way closer to my system than yours, they do have lower voltage than mine, but haslel runs a bit hotter than sb iirc.
> 
> Out of curiosity, what does Open HW monitor say your CPU draws in wattage under full load when it tested?, mine said 102.6w on package
> 
> I really need that cheapo thermo to test stuff


----------



## Axaion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*


Well, im stumped, maybe diff temps and such, plus airflow in case?

The two 120mm nanoxia intake fans are pretty much lolblocked by the hdd cages

Using the supplied thermal paste, which should be pretty damn good too, was a *censored* to get the mount with the cooler itself on though, really gotta press hard to make the bolt connect to the beams.

double edit: Maybe the newer chips just runs hotter, kinda like AMD runs craptons cooler even though they consume some nice wattage


----------



## doyll

My guess is cooler air going into cooler. 143.7w is 40% more heat than 102.6w.


----------



## Axaion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> My guess is cooler air going into cooler. 143.7w is 40% more heat than 102.6w.


Well theres not really any difference even with the side panel off









Actually i just read through Xbits review of the phanteks, on their 980X system, it hit 70C under load, so somehow your CPU is even running massive amounts of hilarious cooler than their testbed then too, I belive they use IBT/linpack/LinX to test with, if im not mistaken.

It hit 68c with 2x TY-140 fans on 1260RPM, with the room temp on 25c (Yes i know you like intake, but they dont provide it, from what i can tell)

..maybe you got a golden chip lol

This is weird indeed


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axaion*
> 
> Well theres not really any difference even with the side panel off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually i just read through Xbits review of the phanteks, on their 980X system, it hit 70C under load, so somehow your CPU is even running massive amounts of hilarious cooler than their testbed then too, I belive they use IBT/linpack/LinX to test with, if im not mistaken.
> 
> It hit 68c with 2x TY-140 fans on 1260RPM, with the room temp on 25c (Yes i know you like intake, but they dont provide it, from what i can tell)
> 
> ..maybe you got a golden chip lol
> 
> This is weird indeed


Their testing was at 4.3GHz 1.3875v compared to mine running stock at 3.55GHz and 1.28v. Big difference.


----------



## zeromeep

Hello everyone, just upgraded my cooler from a Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme single scythe s flex 120mm to the PH-TC14PE. I was reading through the post and have not come across the issues I am having so if anyone here can give me a heads up I would be grateful. I have hooked up the fans to the motherboards cpu / opt fan headers and during stress test they are running full at @1250 rpm along with the two 200mm corsair case fans @1000 rpm. Set the fans up as specified in the manual and online but noticed that the FRONT tower (closest to the memory slots) is running very cool while the REAR tower is running HOT (kinda get that the front one exhaust heat into the second) but the temps to the touch are very different. Maybe the thermal paste did not go on evenly as I used a pea size in the middle but when installing I threaded one side slightly to get started but the other side really took some heavy pushing to get the screw low enough to start threading which might have lead to an uneven pressure from left to right. Temps are at 42-45 idle and shoot up to 68-70 socket temp on Prime95 with room temps in temp 23c. Are these temps correct or within the ballpark of the coolers ability? Thanks for any help as im stumped and dont know if i should change fan positions of if this is normal...


----------



## Axaion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeromeep*
> 
> I threaded one side slightly to get started but the other side really took some heavy pushing to get the screw low enough to start threading..


I had to do the same thing really, every time i took off the cooler to check the spreading, it seemed to have spread just fine however


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeromeep*
> 
> Hello everyone, just upgraded my cooler from a Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme single scythe s flex 120mm to the PH-TC14PE. I was reading through the post and have not come across the issues I am having so if anyone here can give me a heads up I would be grateful. I have hooked up the fans to the motherboards cpu / opt fan headers and during stress test they are running full at @1250 rpm along with the two 200mm corsair case fans @1000 rpm. Set the fans up as specified in the manual and online but noticed that the FRONT tower (closest to the memory slots) is running very cool while the REAR tower is running HOT (kinda get that the front one exhaust heat into the second) but the temps to the touch are very different. Maybe the thermal paste did not go on evenly as I used a pea size in the middle but when installing I threaded one side slightly to get started but the other side really took some heavy pushing to get the screw low enough to start threading which might have lead to an uneven pressure from left to right. Temps are at 42-45 idle and shoot up to 68-70 socket temp on Prime95 with room temps in temp 23c. Are these temps correct or within the ballpark of the coolers ability? Thanks for any help as im stumped and dont know if i should change fan positions of if this is normal...


Hi and welcome 14PE owner!








Ultra 120 Extreme is great little cooler!
I usually test / "practice" mount coolers without TIM to make sure it will mount properly with TIM. Only take a minute to be sure everything works like right .. and no TIM to need cleaning. The springs on the cooler mount are always a bear the first time. After a few time they get easier.









I use a "grain of rice" size dab in middle of CPU. We don't need the whole CPU covered. Only the area over chip.

Back in 2011 Hardware Secrets did a test of 6 different amounts of TIM from "tiny dot" to "A lot". The best temps were from the smallest amounts of TIM. Here's a condensed version:

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/What-is-the-Best-Way-to-Apply-Thermal-Grease-Part-1/1303/10


----------



## Axaion

that does depend a lot on the CPU used, as in how big the cores are, and if the heat spreader is actually effective in transfering heat, you wouldent want to use a tiny dab that would normally cover a quad core cpus cores on a 6 or 8 core cpu and have it miss 15-20% on the edges

I went with the small dot size on those pictures btw, it just barely hits the sides

edit; hes not talking about the springs @doyll - hes talking about having to use tons of force to get the mounting plate down on the two beams you attack to the motherboard, as it hovers above them, and you have to slightly screw in one first, then press down really hard on the other side - to even make contact with the threading of the bolts

Myself i was kinda worried id snap something in half.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axaion*
> 
> that does depend a lot on the CPU used, as in how big the cores are, and if the heat spreader is actually effective in transfering heat, you wouldent want to use a tiny dab that would normally cover a quad core cpus cores on a 6 or 8 core cpu and have it miss 15-20% on the edges
> 
> I went with the small dot size on those pictures btw, it just barely hits the sides
> 
> edit; hes not talking about the springs @doyll - hes talking about having to use tons of force to get the mounting plate down on the two beams you attack to the motherboard, as it hovers above them, and you have to slightly screw in one first, then press down really hard on the other side - to even make contact with the threading of the bolts
> 
> Myself i was kinda worried id snap something in half.


The actual CPU chips are in the middle of IHS; some square and some rectangular in shape. None are anywhere near the corners of CPU. As long as TIM print is a circle touching or almost touching the side of IHS we have enough TIM.









The 14PE cooler crossbar has springs between the screw head and the crossbar. This spring is what pressed the cooler onto IHS.


----------



## gasolin

You also have to mount the plate with the screews and 3 holes the right way so it forms a v or else you can't tighten the screews with the springs, i did mount it the wrong way so couldn't the last screew (makes more sense to see the video to know what i mean)

http://youtu.be/TVRa3y7IwHg?t=7m54s


----------



## Axaion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The actual CPU chips are in the middle of IHS; some square and some rectangular in shape. None are anywhere near the corners of CPU. As long as TIM print is a circle touching or almost touching the side of IHS we have enough TIM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 14PE cooler crossbar has springs between the screw head and the crossbar. This spring is what pressed the cooler onto IHS.


Yep, thats the one, you have to press pretty damn hard the first few times to get it to the threading on the other side, as they dont even touch the threading on either side when just putting the heatsink down on it

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasolin*
> 
> You also have to mount the plate with the screews and 3 holes the right way so it forms a v or else you can't tighten the screews with the springs, i did mount it the wrong way so couldn't the last screew (makes more sense to see the video to know what i mean)
> 
> http://youtu.be/TVRa3y7IwHg?t=7m54s


I checked like 5 times beforehand that i put them down right, unless the manual is lying (and is mexican) then its just really troublesome the first time, as you gotta press hard to pretty much almost bend the mounting bracket in the cooler itself


----------



## Axaion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Their testing was at 4.3GHz 1.3875v compared to mine running stock at 3.55GHz and 1.28v. Big difference.


..should have qouted this too, lol

Maybe the SB and Ivy bridges just runs hotter in general than the 980


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axaion*
> 
> ..should have qouted this too, lol
> 
> Maybe the SB and Ivy bridges just runs hotter in general than the 980


They are pretty much the same heat.


----------



## Axaion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> They are pretty much the same heat.


Well that 980x is OCed, yours aint, But at the same clock, yeah.

the 3960x looks a lot closer to the temps im getting, considering im at 4ghz @ 1.272v, and hit 63c vs 75.2


----------



## zeromeep

Thanks for the welcome and the response on the mounting. It seems like most members here are running intel so there are a lot of temp comparison versus AMD chip and don’t know if mine are close to the limits of the cooler’s ability. Socket temps are getting to 70c on Prime small fft’s 30min but no crashes or errors. Do you guys run your cooler with default fan placement as in the pictures on the website? Another thing that just keeps bugging me and I have researched it online to no avail is the second tower (closest to the exhaust) running hotter to the touch, maybe a bad cooler? I have always used single tower coolers so I have no experience to compare.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axaion*
> 
> Well that 980x is OCed, yours aint, But at the same clock, yeah.
> 
> the 3960x looks a lot closer to the temps im getting, considering im at 4ghz @ 1.272v, and hit 63c vs 75.2










[/URL]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeromeep*
> 
> Thanks for the welcome and the response on the mounting. It seems like most members here are running intel so there are a lot of temp comparison versus AMD chip and don't know if mine are close to the limits of the cooler's ability. Socket temps are getting to 70c on Prime small fft's 30min but no crashes or errors. Do you guys run your cooler with default fan placement as in the pictures on the website? Another thing that just keeps bugging me and I have researched it online to no avail is the second tower (closest to the exhaust) running hotter to the touch, maybe a bad cooler? I have always used single tower coolers so I have no experience to compare.


As I'm not using a case like yours I don't know what default fans are. Second link in my sig explains how to setup case airflow to optimize cooling. You might find it helpful.


----------



## Axaion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> [URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2160180/width/350/height/700%5B/IMG]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2160180/width/350/height/700[/IMG[/URL] Under PH-TC14PE there is only 0.3c difference .. not enough to say one CPU is even remotely hotter than the other. Under Archon there is only 0.7c difference .. still not enough to say one CPU is even remotely hotter than the other. Here, I put nice bright green lines around each cooler on 980X and 3970X .[/QUOTE]
> You misunderstood, I meant that the temps on mine are closer on the 3970x in relation to the temps im getting, and in turn the 980x because theirs is oced to 4.3ghz, compared to yours on stock speeds.
> 
> As in, obviously yours will run a ton cooler than either because its on stock
> 
> And the 3970x and 980x on 4.4 and 4.3 runs around the same temps it seems, which brings me to the point even though your cpu used 14xw there, it seems to be able to get rid of it more efficiently, compared, as im sure the 980x would use more juice too, at 4.4 than tha 3970x does at 4.3, but is still within margin of error.
> 
> All in all, im just saying it seems the 980x architechture just like AMD processors, runs cooler, even if it does suck some more juice.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeromeep*
> 
> Thanks for the welcome and the response on the mounting. It seems like most members here are running intel so there are a lot of temp comparison versus AMD chip and don't know if mine are close to the limits of the cooler's ability. Socket temps are getting to 70c on Prime small fft's 30min but no crashes or errors. Do you guys run your cooler with default fan placement as in the pictures on the website? Another thing that just keeps bugging me and I have researched it online to no avail is the second tower (closest to the exhaust) running hotter to the touch, maybe a bad cooler? I have always used single tower coolers so I have no experience to compare.


You are running a Sabertooth which runs hot. The max socket temp is 70C so you are right on the edge. The only known cure is a fan behind the motherboard to keep the socket cool. Or a better engineered motherboard.


----------



## zeromeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> You are running a Sabertooth which runs hot.


Ahhhh I did not realize this was an issue with these motherboards, thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> As I'm not using a case like yours I don't know what default fans are. Second link in my sig explains how to setup case airflow to optimize cooling. You might find it helpful.


I was referencing the PH-TC14PE for the default fan placement with that being 1st fan near the memory sockets and the 2nd in the middle and just a rear exhaust case fan in back to get rid of the hot air. just wondering if fan placement really had a real performance gain or if its the same.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeromeep*
> 
> I was referencing the PH-TC14PE for the default fan placement with that being 1st fan near the memory sockets and the 2nd in the middle and just a rear exhaust case fan in back to get rid of the hot air. just wondering if fan placement really had a real performance gain or if its the same.


Ah.. sorry.

Front pushing into first tower and middle pushing into second tower is probably a degree cooler at most. It is far more important to have good case fan configuration so cooler gets air at or very near to room ambient. The faster the cooler fans run the more cfm of case airflow is needed to supply the cooler and remove it's heated air. My Define R2 has 3x TY-140 intakes and a duct to exhaust the heated cooler air. Case fans are controlled by PWM signal from CPU, so they speed up and slow down same as cooler fans.
 
 

Case temperatures are never more than 2-3c above room temperature. Second link in my sig is about optimizing case cooling, first is how to use PWMa to control case fans.


----------



## gasolin

I have gotten the y splitter from Phanteks but it's for a 4 pin fan header and fan, used it first with the 4 pin cpu fan header speed was full on all the time, now connected to my 3 pin cpu fan header it seems to works.

Is it safe to use a 4 pin y splitter with 3 pin fans and a 3 pin cpu header


----------



## Axaion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasolin*
> 
> I have gotten the y splitter from Phanteks but it's for a 4 pin fan header and fan, used it first with the 4 pin cpu fan header speed was full on all the time, now connected to my 3 pin cpu fan header it seems to works.
> 
> Is it safe to use a 4 pin y splitter with 3 pin fans and a 3 pin cpu header


Yes, its safe.


----------



## gasolin

What's the name of the screws that yot put on the 2 brackets on the front of the mb, the screws with the big head?


----------



## Axaion

I just call them nuts, you might call me nuts for calling them nuts, but its not too nuts.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasolin*
> 
> I have gotten the y splitter from Phanteks but it's for a 4 pin fan header and fan, used it first with the 4 pin cpu fan header speed was full on all the time, now connected to my 3 pin cpu fan header it seems to works.
> 
> Is it safe to use a 4 pin y splitter with 3 pin fans and a 3 pin cpu header


Sounds like your 3-pin fan header is voltage control and your 4-pin is PWM .. and your fans are 3-pin?
Do you have 3-pin fans on your cooler? F140TC or F140HP? Is there what looks like a speed reducer to plug in between CPU fan header and fan? It's not a speed reducer, but a PWM adapter to allow PWM control of 3-pin fans.

Yes, a 4-pin splitter works fine for 3-pin fans.

Sounds like your 3-pin fan header is voltage control and your 4-pin is PWM .. and your fans are 3-pin?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasolin*
> 
> What's the name of the screws that yot put on the 2 brackets on the front of the mb, the screws with the big head?


You mean the cross-bar spring loaded mounting screws?


----------



## gasolin

My fans are 3 pin fans it's without any doubt the old Phanteks PH-TC14E i bought, the new one migt be 4 pins fans but i have read somewhere the new fans are pwm fans, so i guess they are 4 pin fans

The pwm adapter is 3 pins for the fans and 4 pin for my motherboard, its just that the 4 pin cpu fan header is always full on even when theres only one slider/adjustment in my bios for both cpu fan headers.

I use a 4 pin y splitter (both ends) for 3pin fans and cpu fan header, it works. Both my cpu fans are finally silent at low load









Have ordered a new mb, just ordere a wrong one but i am upgrading to a I7 4790k cpu and a mb from asus, either Maximus Vii ranger or Z97 A (last one 10% cheaper)

Last question, the 4 small bulky screws, the head of them (right word?) got damaged when i hade to tighten them to it's max, also had to turn one of the mounting plates when it allready was in place, so i could thighten the tower to the cpu with the mounting plate

The mounting plate screws......... where can i get some?


----------



## Axaion

Yeah, those 4 small screw nuts are horrible soft metal quality, hopefully phanteks can replace them as they are extremely likely to break after remounting a few times (god help you if you dont have a 100+ USD screwdriver too.)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasolin*
> 
> My fans are 3 pin fans it's without any doubt the old Phanteks PH-TC14E i bought, the new one migt be 4 pins fans but i have read somewhere the new fans are pwm fans, so i guess they are 4 pin fans
> 
> The pwm adapter is 3 pins for the fans and 4 pin for my motherboard, its just that the 4 pin cpu fan header is always full on even when theres only one slider/adjustment in my bios for both cpu fan headers.
> 
> I use a 4 pin y splitter (both ends) for 3pin fans and cpu fan header, it works. Both my cpu fans are finally silent at low load
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have ordered a new mb, just ordere a wrong one but i am upgrading to a I7 4790k cpu and a mb from asus, either Maximus Vii ranger or Z97 A (last one 10% cheaper)
> 
> Last question, the 4 small bulky screws, the head of them (right word?) got damaged when i hade to tighten them to it's max, also had to turn one of the mounting plates when it allready was in place, so i could thighten the tower to the cpu with the mounting plate
> 
> The mounting plate screws......... where can i get some?


Need to know where you live, then I can give you the right email address.


----------



## gasolin

Made in denmark and live in denmark


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasolin*
> 
> Made in denmark and live in denmark


Email [email protected] explaining your problem and asking how much replacements will cost. They may just give you what you need.


----------



## gasolin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Email [email protected] explaining your problem and asking how much replacements will cost. They may just give you what you need.


I have don it before with the y splitter i have recived to today, just would like a place where they have it so i can get it asap, i mean how can it cost(not much), from dustin.dk i am gonna get me a new mb and cpu next week just don't think they have it


----------



## Benjiw

His guys, didn't know there was a Phanteks appreciation thread on here, I have mine in the flavour of black, it's currently cooling my AMD 8350 at 4699mhz stable via intel burn test. I could probably push it to 4.8 but i've spent far too much time messing around with it.


----------



## 66racer

Hey guys,

I was thinking about using the ph-tc14pe in a corsair 350d but it looks like its too tall, is the phantek spec of 171mm height conservative or 100% spot on? Corsair says max on their 350d is 160mm. I didnt seem to see any pictured in the 350d club but 95% of the pics in there are water coolers anyways.

Thanks


----------



## Benjiw

Well Mine fits in the 500R but I swear there is only an inch or so gap between the top of the cooler and my side panel which has live a wedge outwards.


----------



## gasolin

I have now payed for a new mb and cpu so i would like to know the 3 pin cpu fans rpm limited because i can set low rpm limted of the fans in the bios.

Asus Maximus Vii Ranger and i7 4790k, don't know temps and ghz limited but i think i would god silence 90% of the time and to keep temps under 70degress doing games and benchmark so 4.2-4.4 is my guess to what i can oc it to


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I was thinking about using the ph-tc14pe in a corsair 350d but it looks like its too tall, is the phantek spec of 171mm height conservative or 100% spot on? Corsair says max on their 350d is 160mm. I didnt seem to see any pictured in the 350d club but 95% of the pics in there are water coolers anyways.
> 
> Thanks


Just measured mine at 168mm from surface of motherboard to top of cooler fin pack. Height of front fan may be dependent of height of RAM as it's height above motherboard plus the 140mm of fan is the total height above motherboard. For example my RAM is 30mm + 3mm + 140mm fan = 173mm from surface of motherboard to top of fan.

Case spec CPU clearance is from top of CPU which is 8mm above surface of motherboard.
CPU clearance specification + 8mm CPU & socket = motherboard to side cover measurement
RAM is raised 3mm by the RAM socket.
CPU clearance specification + 8mm CPU & socket - RAM measurement - 3mm for socket = space for fan


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasolin*
> 
> I have now payed for a new mb and cpu so i would like to know the 3 pin cpu fans rpm limited because i can set low rpm limted of the fans in the bios.
> 
> Asus Maximus Vii Ranger and i7 4790k, don't know temps and ghz limited but i think i would god silence 90% of the time and to keep temps under 70degress doing games and benchmark so 4.2-4.4 is my guess to what i can oc it to


The low rpm limit should be fine as it is. If it is too low and the fan not running warning sounds, then you can adjust either the fan's minimum speed or the rpm warning speed level


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> His guys, didn't know there was a Phanteks appreciation thread on here, I have mine in the flavour of black, it's currently cooling my AMD 8350 at 4699mhz stable via intel burn test. I could probably push it to 4.8 but i've spent far too much time messing around with it.


Just shows how good TC14PE cools.


----------



## gasolin

Originally Posted by 66racer View Post

Hey guys,

I was thinking about using the ph-tc14pe in a corsair 350d but it looks like its too tall, is the phantek spec of 171mm height conservative or 100% spot on? Corsair says max on their 350d is 160mm. I didnt seem to see any pictured in the 350d club but 95% of the pics in there are water coolers anyways.

Thanks

What about mounting the first fan on the side where thers no ram and as usually the last fan in the middle, then the ram might not interfere with the fan.

The you can have the fans as low as possible because you don't have a fan on the side where theres ram, then the limited would be the towers and not the fans or the ram

If you have ram on both sides of the cooler it could be a problem (because you have more ram then there are slot for them on one side)


----------



## gasolin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The low rpm limit should be fine as it is. If it is too low and the fan not running warning sounds, then you can adjust either the fan's minimum speed or the rpm warning speed level


At some point i have had the fans below 700 rpm about 500-600 rpm for a very short period but spec's say 700-1200 rpm +/- 10%

Any with experience with min rpm?


----------



## 66racer

Thanks for the input guys, seems like it might be close enough to gamble on it. I'm pretty impressed with the performance reviews of the tc12dx as well which seems more than enough for a 4690k and a guaranteed fit. I will leave it up to my buddy who the build is for.


----------



## doyll

@ gasolin
Yes, running fans in pull / pull works fine too or just one fan.

@ 66racer
You could always use only one fan and only be 1c warmer at full speed.


----------



## zeromeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Ah.. sorry.
> 
> Front pushing into first tower and middle pushing into second tower is probably a degree cooler at most. It is far more important to have good case fan configuration so cooler gets air at or very near to room ambient. The faster the cooler fans run the more cfm of case airflow is needed to supply the cooler and remove it's heated air. My Define R2 has 3x TY-140 intakes and a duct to exhaust the heated cooler air. Case fans are controlled by PWM signal from CPU, so they speed up and slow down same as cooler fans.
> Case temperatures are never more than 2-3c above room temperature. Second link in my sig is about optimizing case cooling, first is how to use PWMa to control case fans.


Thanks for the help and suggestions guys, I decided to remount the cpu cooler and noticed I had placed too much thermal paste (maybe) it looked like it spread more to one side since initially it was hard to thread on having to screw one side first and then put alot of pressure to have second screw to start the threading. all fans are connected to the cpu/opt fan headers so controlled via MB software. Placed fan in back of motherboard as suggested and temps went down from 70c to 65c at full load prime95. Still dont know if this is socket or core temps as all software I try, HWinfo, Coretemp and such gives me the same reading as ASUS AI Suite II under cpu temps. Running FX-8320 @2.6 at 1.412v and i can feel the heat being expelled out the rear fan but no lock ups or blue screens, prime stable so im guessing this is socket temp as fan in back of motherboard lowered temps by 5c?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> His guys, didn't know there was a Phanteks appreciation thread on here, I have mine in the flavour of black, it's currently cooling my AMD 8350 at 4699mhz stable via intel burn test. I could probably push it to 4.8 but i've spent far too much time messing around with it.


welcome to the club, just joined myself if you don't mind me asking, what kind of temps are you seeing on your FX-8350 at those speeds? Mine will do 4.7 at 65c and pass intel burn test but fail PRIME95 (at least core #6) even with a added voltage. what cpu volts are you running at?


----------



## zeromeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axaion*
> 
> Yeah, those 4 small screw nuts are horrible soft metal quality, hopefully phanteks can replace them as they are extremely likely to break after remounting a few times (god help you if you dont have a 100+ USD screwdriver too.)


1+^
during my second remount i noticed the thread on the top of the mounting screws starting to strip and I did not really put alot of pressure when threading them on. feel like a few more mounts and the threads are going to give or ill strip the heads. kinda cheap screws and mounting metal for an 80+ USD cooler. Love the cooling performance and quietness though.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeromeep*
> 
> welcome to the club, just joined myself if you don't mind me asking, what kind of temps are you seeing on your FX-8350 at those speeds? Mine will do 4.7 at 65c and pass intel burn test but fail PRIME95 (at least core #6) even with a added voltage. what cpu volts are you running at?


Hi, I cheat the test as it's now cold here in England, I open up all my windows and flood my room with cold air but the highest temp was 65c on IBT, I haven't run prime as i was more concerned about my CPU writing correct data with IBT using the Linpack. I'll run it this weekend for you but I had loads of issues getting it stable with IBT. It took me a few days, I ended up giving the CPU more volts, the HT link needed more as I'm running at 2819mhz and my NB is at 2350mhz, my ram is a touch under 1600 but wouldn't boot unless I fed it 1.65v (i'm using Gskills and corsairs I know, how naughty of me). I turned down the volts on my PLLs too which helped my stability.

It hasn't crashed a game yet and doesn't seem to mind IBT.


----------



## leftythrillz

Has there been confirmation one way or the other whether this fits in the node 804 with the fans going front to back? I aw a post several pages back that someone fit in with the fans top-bottom, but nothing anywhere about front-back.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leftythrillz*
> 
> Has there been confirmation one way or the other whether this fits in the node 804 with the fans going front to back? I aw a post several pages back that someone fit in with the fans top-bottom, but nothing anywhere about front-back.


If you measure the inside of your case for me, I'll measure my Carbide 500R for you so you can have a rough guide of it fitting or not.


----------



## leftythrillz

Actually, I did get an answer from BKinn who seems to be the only one who has used this cooler in his node 804. For anyone else curious, he said that it will fit with caveats.

A. You will not be able to use the 140mm on the side of the RAM slots. You would have to do a pull/pull config.
B. With the front/back setup and a 140mm, your top PCIe slot will be blocked.

As a result of B mainly, I think I have decided on the PE's little brother, the TC120DX. This will be replacing my Cooler Master 212 Evo, which I have tired from after using in a couple builds.


----------



## doyll

Do you know what the distance from top PCI-e socket to center of CPU is?
Or what the distance from our 212 to back of GPU PCB is?

There may be other / better coolers that will fit.


----------



## leftythrillz

I haven't gotten around to measure it yet, but the motherboard I have is the Asus Z97M-Plus.


----------



## Benjiw

There is a smaller version of the 14 that will probably do you right, or just go AIO water cooling, hell if they were so cheap as they are now my brother's rig would have a water unit in there rather than the 12 model. Water is always the way to go in my opinion, you get much better temps, less noise pollution (as I call it) and well... it just looks better too!


----------



## leftythrillz

I was considering the AIO route, however, I am looking to get something first and foremost, for less noise. From what I have read, an AIO would be as loud, if not louder than my current setup. What is the smaller version of the 14 that you speak of?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> There is a smaller version of the 14 that will probably do you right, or just go AIO water cooling, hell if they were so cheap as they are now my brother's rig would have a water unit in there rather than the 12 model. Water is always the way to go in my opinion, you get much better temps, less noise pollution (as I call it) and well... it just looks better too!


There is no smaller version of PH-TC14PE. Not one made by Phanteks.

PH-TC14PE out performs CLC hands down. And if you lower the CLC noise pollution level to that of air coolers CLCs are 5-9c hotter. These are facts easily verified by looking at reviews with good case airflow or bench testing. Air coolers are quieter, cooler, cheaper, less to worry about, less failures, and if a fan dies system still works. When a pump fails there is no cooler at all.

As for looking better, that is in the eyes of the beholder .. some like and some don't.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> There is no smaller version of PH-TC14PE. Not one made by Phanteks.
> 
> PH-TC14PE out performs CLC hands down. And if you lower the CLC noise pollution level to that of air coolers CLCs are 5-9c hotter. These are facts easily verified by looking at reviews with good case airflow or bench testing. Air coolers are quieter, cooler, cheaper, less to worry about, less failures, and if a fan dies system still works. When a pump fails there is no cooler at all.
> 
> As for looking better, that is in the eyes of the beholder .. some like and some don't.


My friend went the AIO route for his intel 4770K and his temps are nice and low even overclocked, where as he had the same heatsink before me the temps where well up on the same OC, Also here is the smaller version I was suggesting.
http://www.phanteks.com/PH-TC12DX.html


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> My friend went the AIO route for his intel 4770K and his temps are nice and low even overclocked, where as he had the same heatsink before me the temps where well up on the same OC, Also here is the smaller version I was suggesting.
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-TC12DX.html


What your friend is getting with CLC versus air is all fine and good, but the fact still remains that top air coolers out-perform top CLC in every way possible. There are many variables that could be the cause of your friend getting better temps .. most often not supplying air cooler with a good supply of cool air. Peeps run a top air cooler without optimizing case airflow. then switch to a CLC mounted to case vents and get 3-5c better cooling and assume they have a better cooler .. the reality is they are just supplying it with 4-7c cooler air . So even though CLC has less cooling ability because it is getting lower temperature air into it, the CPU is a couple degrees cooler. No rocket science here.









As for the PH-TC124 DX, it is not a smaller version. It is a smaller cooler from same company. Smaller version of PH-TC14PE would be a scaled down twin tower using 120mm fans.









I'm sorry, I just hate CLCs being touted as the greatest thing sense chocolate when they are simply not as good as their air counterparts using smoke and mirrors (not supplying same temperature air to both coolers) to make them look great. The facts are they have a much higher failure rate and much shorter life expectancy then good air coolers do. Only air cooler failures are fans which CLC radiators and pumps are cheaply built with inferior material and low powered imitations of custom loop pcomponents .. and as such have a life expectancy of a few years at best. I'm still using the first heatpipe cooler I got, and Ultra 120A .. which evolved into TRUE, TRUE Spirit, Ultra Extreme, Venomous X, Archon, TRUE Copper, etc. Only changes I've made are new mount for newer systems and a PWM fan.


----------



## Benjiw

All I know is water is better at moving heat, some people don't want 20 fans in their cases blurring away at full blast, I listed to a lot of music, game, design things, and I want to get into rendering soon, I'd rather my PC be quiet than move a large quantity of air to keep my temps down when a custom loop can do the same with less noise, the key thing is noise.... I don't like BBBBBBBBRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR *****, I want silence.

I know your replying to me on another thread but could you disengage from your bias and preference in cooling, I understand you like air better, that's great, but I want to try water and such, my argument for water even if its a CLC or AIO, science says it is more efficient at moving heat away.

Before you state that I'm wrong and stuff, please don't I can't be arsed in the most polite way possible, I simply don't care.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> All I know is water is better at moving heat, some people don't want 20 fans in their cases blurring away at full blast, I listed to a lot of music, game, design things, and I want to get into rendering soon, I'd rather my PC be quiet than move a large quantity of air to keep my temps down when a custom loop can do the same with less noise, the key thing is noise.... I don't like BBBBBBBBRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR *****, I want silence.
> 
> I know your replying to me on another thread but could you disengage from your bias and preference in cooling, I understand you like air better, that's great, but I want to try water and such, my argument for water even if its a CLC or AIO, science says it is more efficient at moving heat away.
> 
> Before you state that I'm wrong and stuff, please don't I can't be arsed in the most polite way possible, I simply don't care.


This is just another classic case of "My mind is made up, don't try and confuse me with truth and facts that prove I'm wrong. "









Custom loops can do a better job than production air cooling. But they also cost many times as much to build. My system is silent unless working at 100%, and then it's only just audible. CLC's cost more, make more noise, don't cool as well and won't last as long as air coolers. This is not open for debate. This has been proven time and again, but people like you want to live in a make believe world without reality. Go ahead, but don't expect an air cooling forum to coddle you, pat you on the heat and tell you what you say is true because it just plain isn't.

Custom loop forum will tell you the same as I'm telling you;
Top air aces out all but a couple of CLCs in all ways. Only expensive custom loops are cooler and quieter.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> This is just another classic case of "My mind is made up, don't try and confuse me with truth and facts that prove I'm wrong. "
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Custom loops can do a better job than production air cooling. But they also cost many times as much to build. My system is silent unless working at 100%, and then it's only just audible. CLC's cost more, make more noise, don't cool as well and won't last as long as air coolers. This is not open for debate. This has been proven time and again, but people like you want to live in a make believe world without reality. Go ahead, but don't expect an air cooling forum to coddle you, pat you on the heat and tell you what you say is true because it just plain isn't.
> 
> Custom loop forum will tell you the same as I'm telling you;
> Top air aces out all but a couple of CLCs in all ways. Only expensive custom loops are cooler and quieter.


True words on the i've made my mind up comment, but My 500R is full of fans like your write up suggests, all intake apart from the one exhaust, the loudest component at idle is my PSU but when I start gaming etc my temps shoot up and this causes the fans to also be turned up, unless... I'm doing something wrong that you could educate me on?

2 x scythe 1900 rpm jobs on top intake, 1 x 210mm side panel intake, 2 x 120mm corsair case fans stock intake, and then another scythe for exhaust, all on a fan controller which is manual? What am I doing wrong? mines not silent like yours?


----------



## doyll

LOL. My mind is on other things at the moment. Will look over your system and see what I think later or in the morning. If I don't reply please remind me. I sometimes forget things.







If PSU is loudest thing at idle it sounds like a fairly quiet system, so maybe we can sort out the airflow to quiet everything when gaming. Maybe start a thread so we don't clutter the 14Pe thread.


----------



## BKinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leftythrillz*
> 
> Actually, I did get an answer from BKinn who seems to be the only one who has used this cooler in his node 804. For anyone else curious, he said that it will fit with caveats.
> 
> A. You will not be able to use the 140mm on the side of the RAM slots. You would have to do a pull/pull config.
> B. With the front/back setup and a 140mm, your top PCIe slot will be blocked.
> 
> As a result of B mainly, I think I have decided on the PE's little brother, the TC120DX. This will be replacing my Cooler Master 212 Evo, which I have tired from after using in a couple builds.


I should clarify a bit on part B... the first PCIe slot will be blocked, depending on the board (mine was on a V Gene and my Extreme 4-M), with either orientation.

I haven't addressed this cooler+case combo much in the forum but I have gotten a few DM's about it. Sometime this week I will rotate my cooler and take photos so that everyone can see visually how it works out in the node 804 when oriented the other direction. I'm interested to see if there is any temperature difference as well.

Also, not to beat a dead horse but to weigh in on the CLC vs air debate... I've had an H100 and this... I'll take this over the H100 any day. I run my fans on low and it outperforms my H100 while being WAY quieter. No matter how low I ran my H100 fans, the pump was incredibly bothersome. I will say that I like the minimalism of CLC though. It depends on what you want more: looks or performance. It's a personal choice.


----------



## leftythrillz

Funny you bring that up. I just started peeling apart my case tonight and because I have decided to keep my mobo that only has one PCIe x16 slot, I believe that I am either going to go with the little brother of this in the 12dx or the H105. Decisions decisions...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leftythrillz*
> 
> Funny you bring that up. I just started peeling apart my case tonight and because I have decided to keep my mobo that only has one PCIe x16 slot, I believe that I am either going to go with the little brother of this in the 12dx or the H105. Decisions decisions...


Measure from the centerline of CPU to side of PCIe X16 slot. Multiply that by 2 to get the maximum width of coolers with centered bases that will fit. Keep in mind there are now coolers with the base offset to give better CPU to PCIe clearance .. like Thermalright Archon IB-E, Silver Arrow IB-E and HR-22.


----------



## leftythrillz

I have decided to go the H105 route with better fans. However, for those who might have this motherboard (Asus LGA Z97m-Plus) the measurement is 3-3/8" from half-line to top of pcie slot. Therefore I would say 6" long coolers should be fine to fit.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leftythrillz*
> 
> I have decided to go the H105 route with better fans. However, for those who might have this motherboard (Asus LGA Z97m-Plus) the measurement is 3-3/8" from half-line to top of pcie slot. Therefore I would say 6" long coolers should be fine to fit.


3 3/8" is 85.725mm
6" is 152.4mm

I scaled 77.5mm from picture 83mm center to center.


----------



## leftythrillz

Well, the 3-3/8" is from the middle of the socket down to the top of the pcie slot. So, assuming you are using a regular cooler with no offset, you would double that going the other way. So what I meant was you could use a cooler that was ~6" long (room between the card and bottom of cooler). Am I mistaken?


----------



## doyll

You are not mistaken. Was just giving a little more info.


----------



## leftythrillz

Oh no problem! I was just making sure that I wasn't overlooking something. That said, it looks like I'm going to have two computers to build. I might use this beast (TC14PE) in my rebuild of my R4.


----------



## zeromeep

Hi doyall, on an off topic would you consider the cryorig r1 ultimate cooler premium ($97) over the Phantek ($80) a worthwhile upgrade? I currently have the Phantek as previously posted and temps seem better with cryorig in other forums but from your experience or others here would you recommend switching or just sticking with Phantek for cheaper. Looking for air cooling so no water kits for me right now. Thanks -


----------



## doyll

Cryorig might be a couple degrees better, but if you changed your stock fans to something like TY-143 fans you would gain more improvement for a lot less money.

Gain varies with system. I gained 5c changing from stock PH-F140TS fans to TY-143. NH-D14 gained 9c, TRUE Spirit 140 Power gained 8c with TY-143 change.


----------



## Ultra-m-a-n

Just wondering if anyone can show a pic of the cooler with 120mm fans?

I wanna put AP15s on it.

I just ordered both and if they won't mount I'll have to cancel my order, so if anyone can chime in I'd appreciate it


----------



## NrGx

I wonder if anyone has tried stuffing this thing into a Corsair 250D...doable? Looking for some quiet cooling for my i5.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NrGx*
> 
> I wonder if anyone has tried stuffing this thing into a Corsair 250D...doable? Looking for some quiet cooling for my i5.


Are you pulling our chain? 250D has 94mm CPU clearance .. maybe 140mm with no optical drive.


----------



## Ultra-m-a-n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Are you pulling our chain? 250D has 94mm CPU clearance .. maybe 140mm with no optical drive.


Now that's a sight hahaa

But I think he might've meant the 350D


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultra-m-a-n*
> 
> Now that's a sight hahaa
> 
> But I think he might've meant the 350D


Than it would be dependent on motherboard / center CPU clearances; PCIe socket to center CPU, RAM socket to center CPU, RAM height and case to center CPU.


----------



## wermad

Any tips on alternative fan clip options? My gpu setup will clash with the fan clips. I've seen rubber bands and some zip ties but I'm looking if anyone has tried different clips or other items to hold down the fans? Placed an order for a blue ph-tc14pe and a 3rd fan







. Also, how easy is to breakdown the fans to paint the housings??? Thanks


----------



## wermad

Got my cooler installed. Surprisingly simple to install though a tiny bit fiddly intially. I'm happy I didn't have any interference with the top gpu in my Gigabyte Sniper 5 Z87 and MSi 280X:









Sorry, didn't take notice of temps on my H212 to compare. I'm running a little Pentium G3258 that I'll oc later on. May have to delid the sucker if temps are high







.


----------



## doyll

Looking good!
Your Pentium G3258 is only 53w TDP. 212 was plenty of cooler for the heat it makes. 14PE could cool it without fans.







I'm cooling a i7 920 @ 3.8GHz and at full load fans run 1100rpm @ 60-65c.









Sorry, I missed your previous post.
Simplest for fan clips is tape or heat shrink to insulate the protruding part.
I don't think fans can be taken apart.


----------



## wermad

I cleared the top gpu w/ plenty of space and there's ~5mm from the clips to the gpu. I added some rubber pads I hijacked from the H212. It is massive overkill for the PAE, but I will eventually move to a 4770k/4790K later on if the Pentium can't keep up with crossfire Tahiti. Also, PAE G3258 suffer the same heat issues as its Haswell big brothers. Overkill is a necessity, unless I delid (leaning on not doing this to prevent any diminish in resale of the PAE when it comes time to switch).

I'm very impressed on how smooth its been going. Fans are super quiet and idle temps are chilly. I need a 3-way pwm splitter w/ molex once the 4rd fan arrives. I'm really not liking the white fan housings and I may just pasti-dip them or wrap them in vinyl. I'm not a decent painter, so this notion is really keeping me from painting them. Though, i did see a couple of pics of builds where the blades were removed for painting.


----------



## doyll

Removed for painting or just painted?

I've had good luck painting housings without removing fan. Carefully mask the fan and spray the housing. Hardest part is the face of motor mounting strips behind fan blades. This is where a felt marker the same color comes in handy. Used black felt maker to do housings on a couple of TY-140 fans. Had to look real close to see the were not originally black.


----------



## wermad

Hehe, some of you may think I'm







, but I liked the Antec 140s a lot to use them instead of the stock Phanteks. They push out decent amount of air and three of them are moving a ton of air nicely over the Phanteks cooler. At 1200rpm, they're much more quiet then the stock fans and i love the smoked/clear housing w/ the blue led's







. I ended up cancelling my 3rd Phanteks 140mm fan and ordered a few more (and cheaper) Antec 140s. They have a built in switch (annoyingly with a short cable!) to switch them from 100% power (12v/1200rpm) to ~8-9v (~800rpm) which is stupid quiet! I'm going to think of a way to interconnect the three on the cooler and the rest of the chassis fans. Still, I have seven running max and the sole (temporary) TT 200mm fan is louder! The only issues i had was mounting and post mounting. Since the stock Phanteks fans use 120mm mounting, i had to find a way to mount this true-sized 140mm fans. Luckily, the Antecs have these circles/spots/dimples at each corner. I just used the inner one (for the cooler) and drilled out a a few holes (5/32" after pilot hole) and voila! The plug/retainers went in and the fan clips went on! Great way to save the mounting system. Unfortunately, this caused another obstacle: these new mounting holes are more towards the edge of the fan, unlike the stock fans (more towards the center). This caused the clips to droop a bit, but enough that I no longer have clearance for that top and exposed Msi 280x (







). Looking at possibly heat-shrink wrap them, i ended up using some smaller-diameter rubber edge trim/guard I had. With some super glue, they stuck on nicely and now the clips are insulated and though they touch the gpu, there's no issues with the rubber!


----------



## doyll

Good job!








Blue LED accent looks nice.

Just curious, but would it be possible to cut the Antec housing to match the Phanteks shape?
Something like this maybe?


----------



## wermad

I thought about that but I think the hubs might be a bit different. I wouldn't want to damage a perfectly stock fan tbh


----------



## doyll

I mean like this.


----------



## wermad

Trimming off the Antec housing? It really wouldn't make a difference once its installed on the cooler. But, back the question, you'll be cutting off the led's if you start trimming it. What makes these (and the Thermalright 140s) is the mounting holes are pushed inwards for 120mm installation. But over all, the square dimension of the stock Phantek fans is still a 140mm size.

Anyone have issues w/ the Corsair Vengeance Pro? The heatsink is a tad bit shorter then the previous Vengeance. For the same price as the low profile 1600 kit, i got the 2400mhz Pro kit. Couldn't pass it up


----------



## doyll

Vengeance Pro is 44mm so should just fit.
RAM socket raises RAM 3mm .
PH-TC14PE has about 52mm from bottom fin to motherboard.
Should have 5mm clearance.


----------



## pez

Considering moving back to the air cooling side. I'm running into problems with with the 'cons' of AIO/CLC with my new hardware (4770k Z97, Ripjaw X).

I had to put my stock fans back on the H100 to get 'acceptable-to-me' load temps. I had the S-Flex F fans on there before with my AMD setup (you can see it's parts if you care on my 'A Build In Progress...' rig) and it did good. Idled around 30C and loaded around 55C. Now I'm idling around 35-40C and loading around 65-75; peaking in the high 80's during stressing.

However, this is getting me loud fans and pretty 'similar' temps to when I had the Scythes on there. I'd honestly rather load a couple C higher with the immensely quieter Scythes, but I digress.

I'm at a point where I'm past irritation/paranoia. My options right now are top-end air cooling, or going with a new case and a custom loop. My case, and motherboard limit me from going with a rad that's bigger than that of the H100 or H100i, and I'm not convinced the H100i is an 'upgrade'.

However, this brings me to this thread. The Phanteks looks great (I've always loved big coolers since the the Xigmatek 1283), it looks to run super silent; which is a huge plus considering I bought my case to be 'sleek, tame, and silent', and it looks to even be an 'upgrade' to the H100/H100i.

I'm very open to opinions at this point, and I've posted my dilemna in the 550D thread. I've got the middle HDD cage taken out in my case, and my cable management is what I consider to be good. I'm planning on replacing all of my fans in the future with more secondhand S-Flex Fs or possibly GT AP-15s.

I feel I've rambled, and not sure I've given enough criteria, but I'd be happy to answer any questions. Thanks guys.


----------



## doyll

AIO / CLC are simple not any better than top tier air .. H100 / H100i are way down in the mud.
Temps are within +/-1c as they are not all from same day testing, but are much more accurate than most other tests.


I suggest you start a thread here in Air Cooling and we can discuss this.

PH-TC14PE is a great cooler, but there are a few others just as good ..
maybe slightly better.


----------



## pez

Awesome! I had seen that pic you posted somewhere else and was searching high and low (seems to happen when you need things the most) for it.

I'm about to be back at a computer where I'll create a thread for it. I know for a fact I can make the Phanteks work, but that Cryorig cooler is beautiful too. Thanks for the help doyll!

EDIT:

Here we go:

Moving on From AIO/CLC


----------



## doyll

Honestly, 2c difference in test results means nothing. These tests are not that accurate .. and can easily be +/-2c different from a week ago testing to today's testing. Much has to do with the TIM seat, but the humidity, barometric pressure, etc. all affect cooling. It really doesn't take much to change temps 2c. I use Ciarlatano's results because I know they are about as accurate as they can get outside of a lab. Every time he test a cooler for a review he tests all coolers in results at same time .. not some today, some a week ago, and some months ago.


----------



## speculate

So has anybody bought this cooler in black from amazon or newegg have you gotten the new updated 4pin pwm fans?

heads up for anyone who wants to buy newegg has this for $64.99 after rebate and free shipping.


----------



## sweenytodd

I bought a red last May from Newegg. The fans that came were the latest 4-pin PWM.


----------



## VeerK

My black and white from last August were still 3 pin









Quick q, is anyone here using the pwm hub with an asus board? For some reason I can't get the pwm hub to show up in my bios after plugging in all of my fans, and yes I followed the little guide thing they included









I also can't for the life of me figure out why my phanteks cpu fan all of a sudden only ever runs full blast and I can't control it at all. I use the 4 pin adapter included in the box to hook up both fans to one cpu header, and the hub to the CPU opt header which mirrors the pwm signal from the CPU header. I've tried to switch them around but the CPU fan only runs at 1300 rpm and the fans go full speed and don't show up in the bios after plugging in all 5, does show up with 2 though. Any help would be appreciated, sorry if it isn't the clearest post, nursing a hangover.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeerK*
> 
> My black and white from last August were still 3 pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick q, is anyone here using the pwm hub with an asus board? For some reason I can't get the pwm hub to show up in my bios after plugging in all of my fans, and yes I followed the little guide thing they included
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also can't for the life of me figure out why my phanteks cpu fan all of a sudden only ever runs full blast and I can't control it at all. I use the 4 pin adapter included in the box to hook up both fans to one cpu header, and the hub to the CPU opt header which mirrors the pwm signal from the CPU header. I've tried to switch them around but the CPU fan only runs at 1300 rpm and the fans go full speed and don't show up in the bios after plugging in all 5, does show up with 2 though. Any help would be appreciated, sorry if it isn't the clearest post, nursing a hangover.


Yeah, it's hard to know what fans will be in the box.

Are you using a Phanteks PWM hub?


----------



## VeerK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yeah, it's hard to know what fans will be in the box.
> 
> Are you using a Phanteks PWM hub?


Yup yup.


----------



## doyll

Are you sure you have PWM signal on CPU fan header pin -4?
The Phanteks fan hub will not work properly without a PWM signal on pin-4.


----------



## VeerK

could be the hangover, but im not sure what you mean by pin -4. both the cpu fan and cpu opt fan headers on the asus hero have full pwm support as well as dc control. these two headers also allow 3 pin fans to be controlled, but the bios must be set to a different setting to do that. i have the bios/uefi configured such that the board is told 4 pin fans are connected and it outputs a pwm signal on the cpu fan header, which will be mirrored on the cpu opt header thus giving that device the exact same pwm signal.

the cpu fans now only ever run on full blast with the pwm signal setting on. however, if i tell the bios to treat the fan connected as a 3 pin fan, the fans slow down to the point where they just stop. i am using the included 3 pin to 4 pin adapter in the phtc14pe box for the cpu fans. case fans are attached to the hub.


----------



## wermad

I got my Blue one from newegg ($59.99 w/ rebate) and it came w/ pwm. Saw a bit of news when i was researching the cooler that Phanteks changed it last year I think.


----------



## doyll

Motherboard fan header pin-out


PWM header and socket pin-out


The reason I ask is if system is functioning with PWM, pin-2 will be constant 12v power to the fan. If you plug a 3-pin fan into the header it will run full speed. But a PWM fan will be regulated .. because the PWM signal from header pin-4 to the PWM fan's PWM PCB pulses the 12v power fan is getting on pin-2.


----------



## VeerK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Motherboard fan header pin-out
> 
> 
> PWM header and socket pin-out
> 
> 
> The reason I ask is if system is functioning with PWM, pin-2 will be constant 12v power to the fan. If you plug a 3-pin fan into the header it will run full speed. But a PWM fan will be regulated .. because the PWM signal from header pin-4 to the PWM fan's PWM PCB pulses the 12v power fan is getting on pin-2.


I understand what you mean, thanks for the diagram. The motherboard has 4 pins, and 4 pin PWM support on the CPU FAN and CPU FAN OPT headers, confirmed by manual, other owners, and myself in the past. I can't remember when, but in the past 8 weeks for some reason the PHTC14PE stopped receiving the PWM signal (I assume from your diagram and observational evidence) and only runs full speed. I know for a fact that the motherboard is capable of sending a PWM signal because it was working before.

The only thing that has changed in the past 8 weeks is the addition of the Phanteks PWM hub. My issue with that is that when I only have 2 case fans hooked up (properly of course) I can see the RPM in the UEFI fan speed monitor. When I have all 5 hooked up, I lose the ability to see the RPM. So my problem now is that the case fans run full speed too when all 5 case fans are hooked up to the PWM hub which is connected to the CPU OPT header which is mirroring the PWM signal sent through the CPU fan header to the CPU fans.

I will run some tests now and see if I can't fix anything, but you suspect that the motherboard is for some reason not sending a PWM signal to my CPU fans? Is it possible the 3 pin to 4 pin Y splitter I am using (supplied in the box) is causing some sort of issue?

Thanks.


----------



## doyll

There should be a 4-pin to 3pin Adapter that coverts the PWM to variable voltage going to your 3-pin F140HP (or are the F140TS?) fans? You then plug the fan splitter into the adapter and fans into the splitter. Problem is some were packaged with a 4-splitter instead of 3-pin. To use 4-pin to 3-pin adapter, one side of the 3-pin socket needs to be cut out so 4-pin splitter will plug into it.
 

Cut the left side of socket below (1) so 4pin plug will plug in with the pin-4 part sticking out the side of socket .. not plugging into anything.


----------



## VeerK

As usual, thanks for the information Doyll. I am away from home so I can't try what you suggested, but I'll be doing a full tear down and rebuild Wednesday anyway so I'll follow up then.


----------



## VeerK

Update:

Doyll, you're a bloody genius. You understood my incoherent blathering, and it worked like a charm. I think I rewired my PC some months ago and took out the 3 to 4 pin adapter thinking it was an unnecessary extender when the splitter already had 4 pins. Works beautifully now, now to figure out why my motherboard won't read the RPM from the fan hub.

Also, is there any way to ask Phanteks to send me a new 3 pin to 3 pin splitter to use with the 3 pin to 4 pin pwm adapter? It hurt me inside to pull that left shell piece of lol.


----------



## doyll

Easy there now VeerK. I didn't know how you had things. Just said how it's supposed to be hooked up. 

Email [email protected] explaining your problem including your mailing address, pictures of the problem, and copy of your invoice asking for the correct 3-pin Y-splitter. I say include all the above because this way they can deal with it all with the single email from you. Saves both them and you time.


----------



## VSG

Unboxing pics done, next up tests on 5960x, 4770k and G3258.


----------



## Ljanmi

Is there a performance difference between color and no collorless versions? I heard that there is a one degree difference?


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ljanmi*
> 
> Is there a performance difference between color and no collorless versions? I heard that there is a one degree difference?


No difference. 1C difference is caused by the ambient temps changing and mounting the cooler. Those are the variables that results 1C of difference.


----------



## Ljanmi

Sorry about my english, I had a few beers and typing from a touch phone


----------



## doyll

Performance varies for several reasons:
Changes in temp are one. Using room temp rather than cooler intake air temp is another, even with same kind of cooler because the fan have been changed they may be slightly different speed resulting in different airflow, resulting in different speed. Then there's the TIM mount being slightly different, even the assembly of each cooler, and the list goes on. 1c is not worth considering unless we see it happening every time that cooler is mounted.

When PH-TC14PE first came out Frosty Tech tested 4 colors, white (silver), red, orange and blue. Test results were 14.0c, 14.4c, 14.5c & 14.8c


----------



## VSG

I am waiting to get some missing parts from the cooler package above in order to actually test anything out but I am treating both as the same as should everyone else. Heatsink fin color is not a variable worth testing out


----------



## doyll

There is no way to isolate just the color in order to test it out. It is only one of several things that may be slightly different.

For example, there are 44 2-piece fins in each tower attached to 5 heatpipes. That 440 solder joints between fins and pipes .. in each tower .. 880 total.

No way do all of them have the same heat transfer.


----------



## Makki

Overall i like this thing more than Noctuas. SB (4,4ghz @ 1,32v 24/7) goes up to 58 in load. Hottest core, it stops there. Idle coolest core is around 22-23


----------



## Spork13

Just noticed this thread.
I gfot the black one, because everyone knows black absorbs more heat.








It also suits the colour of my build.
I initially bought the Noctua NH-D15, but couldn't bear the baby poo colour fans.
Temperatures and noise haven't changed much, if at all with the Phanteks, but it does look a hell of a lot better.

I just got 4 more PH-F140HP fans to use as case fans.


----------



## michaelius

I've bought black version few months ago - I've got to say that quality is amazing and mounting it was super easy for the cooler of this size - well at least compared to Scythe Mugen 2 which I had previously









I was thinking about Noctua as well but NH-D15 has 150mm width while Phanteks is "only" 140mm so it can be used with mobos that have GPU in first slot.


----------



## Merranza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelius*
> 
> I've bought black version few months ago - I've got to say that quality is amazing and mounting it was super easy for the cooler of this size - well at least compared to Scythe Mugen 2 which I had previously
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking about Noctua as well but NH-D15 has 150mm width while Phanteks is "only" 140mm so it can be used with mobos that have GPU in first slot.


I'd like to dig a bit on your last sentence. I have an Asus Z97 pro wifi and want to check if there's a difference between these 2 models in terms of PCIe slot clearance. GPU slot is in the second slot but I have a X1 slot as my first slot. My understanding is the D15 will block the first slot. Will the Phanteks (140mm) block it also? (And just to make sure, if I want to measure, I have to measure from the middle of my CPU and go 70mm each side correct?)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Merranza*
> 
> I'd like to dig a bit on your last sentence. I have an Asus Z97 pro wifi and want to check if there's a difference between these 2 models in terms of PCIe slot clearance. GPU slot is in the second slot but I have a X1 slot as my first slot. My understanding is the D15 will block the first slot. Will the Phanteks (140mm) block it also? (And just to make sure, if I want to measure, I have to measure from the middle of my CPU and go 70mm each side correct?)


Yes, the distance from center CPU to side of cooler needs to be less then center CPU to PCIe socket / back of card in the socket.

If you have a cooler on the mobo now that is centered on CPU (most are) you can measure from vPCIe PCB to side of cooler and add that to half of the cooler width to determine how much room you have.

If the clearance is less than 71mm, there are a couple of big coolers with offset bases for better PCIe socket clearance.
Silver Arrow IB-E (68mm)
Archon IB-E (69mm)
TRUE Spirit 140 BW rev.A (69mm)
All made by Thermalright.


----------



## Merranza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yes, the distance from center CPU to side of cooler needs to be less then center CPU to PCIe socket / back of card in the socket.
> 
> If you have a cooler on the mobo now that is centered on CPU (most are) you can measure from vPCIe PCB to side of cooler and add that to half of the cooler width to determine how much room you have.
> 
> If the clearance is less than 71mm, there are a couple of big coolers with offset bases for better PCIe socket clearance.
> Silver Arrow IB-E (68mm)
> Archon IB-E (69mm)
> TRUE Spirit 140 BW rev.A (69mm)
> All made by Thermalright.


Awesome, thanks!

I would really like to stay with either Noctua or Phanteks.

My first choice was Noctua's D15 but it will all depend on that measurement. I might go with Phanteks if it clears the slot and if both don't clear, I'll probably go with my first choice.


----------



## michaelius

This build (near bottom of that page) has m-atx Gene with Phanteks

http://forum.pclab.pl/topic/310607-Prezentujemy-swoje-maszynki/page__st__45280


----------



## doyll

I'm using both of yours and 2 of the three I listed above along with a Phanteks TC14PE. Performance is very close to the same for all of them. NH-D15 out performs TC14PE stock because it's fans flow more cfm. Switch the fans and the TC14PE out-performs the NH-D15. Thermalright TY-147 fans come very close to being as good as NF-A15 fans that come on coolers .. and better than NF-A15 fans we can buy .. the cooler fans are 1500rpm and the ones we buy are 1200rpm .. same model number but different fan speeds.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/20_20#post_23229617


----------



## Merranza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm using both of yours and 2 of the three I listed above along with a Phanteks TC14PE. Performance is very close to the same for all of them. NH-D15 out performs TC14PE stock because it's fans flow more cfm. Switch the fans and the TC14PE out-performs the NH-D15. Thermalright TY-147 fans come very close to being as good as NF-A15 fans that come on coolers .. and better than NF-A15 fans we can buy .. the cooler fans are 1500rpm and the ones we buy are 1200rpm .. same model number but different fan speeds.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/20_20#post_23229617


So if I understand correctly, that would mean Phanteks' heatsink is performing better than Noctua?

Thank you for the link, I'll check into it for sure.


----------



## doyll

Maybe not better, but just as good with same fans. The performance is so close between a hand full of top coolers with same fans it's hard to say which is "best."


----------



## Makki

I hope this picture will help you. Its not the same, but i realized i have too 1x over GPU. There is small amount of space, but i think that can be done. Asus P8Z68 V-LX


Sorry about that dust and everything


----------



## gasolin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Makki*
> 
> I hope this picture will help you. Its not the same, but i realized i have too 1x over GPU. There is small amount of space, but i think that can be done. Asus P8Z68 V-LX
> 
> 
> Sorry about that dust and everything


OMG you need to clean your cpu cooler loook at all that dust on the side close to the battery


----------



## Merranza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Makki*
> 
> I hope this picture will help you. Its not the same, but i realized i have too 1x over GPU. There is small amount of space, but i think that can be done. Asus P8Z68 V-LX
> 
> 
> Sorry about that dust and everything


Thank you very much for the picture. I think we have pretty much the same space between the center of the CPU and the PCIe x1 slot over the GPU. After measurement, the space you show up in your picture if pretty much what I envision for my board. That 5mm difference with the Noctua would probably block the port.

It's not that I need the port right away. I'm just trying to future proof a bit my motherboard. I have 4 PCIe X1 slots. The 2nd one is covered by my GTX 980 Gigabyte. The 4th one would be covered by an eventual SLI setup. If I was to cover the first one, I would be left with the 3rd one only which would be cramped between 2 GPUs in an SLI setup. Having that first slot free to add an eventual soundcard or whatever else that would fit in a PCIe X1 slot would be nice...

edit: Meh, not sure Phanteks will fit without blocking the PCIe x1 1st first slot either :x


----------



## speculate

^I have the PH-TC14PE on an ASUS B85m-e matx motherboard 1st PCI express slot on mine is not blocked. So it works for my motherboard and others that i have seen. There is also a suffcient amount of space between cooler and the fan clips. I didn't need to use electrical tape or anything to guard against shorting(my graphics card doesn't have a backplate though).


----------



## sweenytodd

My attempt on painting the PH-F140HP frame with black Plasti-Dip




Totally broke the frame, I mean look at the first picture, but still works. I glued back the part of the frame the was broken.


----------



## doyll

Looks like it came out good, except for breakage.


----------



## Spork13

Am I missing something here?
Did you paint a perfectly good fan to make the frame black (no problem with that) and the blades baby-poo-noctua-colurs?


----------



## doyll

ROFL
The poo red is stock fan blade color.

Here's a pic of his system before he did the black frame


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> Am I missing something here?
> Did you paint a perfectly good fan to make the frame black (no problem with that) and the blades baby-poo-noctua-colurs?


LOL









My camera settings didn't have color corrections, using OnePlus One camera.



@doyll Thanks, I'll borrow my sis' Canon T3i to take shots again.


----------



## doyll

Just didn't want peeps thinking you painted them "poo red"


----------



## Spork13

Doyll's pic shows the blade colour better

Thank heaven for that.


----------



## doyll

It's Sweenytodd's picture. I just shamelessly copied it from another post.


----------



## attackcenter

I posted something similar in the Cryorig thread and found out it was a "no go". So let me ask:

1. Will Phanteks PH-TC14PEl fit the Asus z97 deluxe motherboard with bluetooth/ac wifi?

2. Will the Phanteks PH-TC14PEl with three fans fit the Asus z97 deluxe motherboard with bluetooth/ac wifi? + Are all the hardware included with the Phanteks PH-TC14PEl to do a three fan setup?

3. I have a Corsair 760t case, Asus z97 deluxe motherboard with bluetooth/ac wifi, and low profile Crucial Lp tactical memory, will I be a able to use the Phanteks PH-TC14PEl with 3 fans in this configuration?

Thanks.


----------



## michaelius

Ad2. Everything except third fan is included








Ad3. With low profile memory you can use 3x140mm configurations as long as case has close to 170mm clearance. I've used 1x120+2x140 with 38nm tall trident X.

Can't comment on mobo compatibility with that Asus


----------



## gasolin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelius*
> 
> Ad2. Everything except third fan is included
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ad3. With low profile memory you can use 3x140mm configurations as long as case has close to 170mm clearance. I've used 1x120+2x140 with 38nm tall trident X.
> 
> Can't comment on mobo compatibility with that Asus


----------



## VSG

So here's an aircooling noob's "little" review of the TC14PE: http://www.overclock.net/t/1530984/user-review-of-the-phanteks-ph-tc14pe/0_50


----------



## sweenytodd

Late update here, after two hours of using my painted fan, it died when I did a cold reboot. I still have a picture of it working for proof.



I phoned Phanteks on Dec 15 and told them one the fans died, never ask a single reason, just the invoice of the cooler. After 24 hours they send me a tracking number and in less than a week, I received the replacement fan, in Canada.

Phanteks CS is awesome. I want to stick with this cooler for a while


----------



## doyll

Black looks good!









Phanteks give great support.

I'm sure if CPU mounting changes Phanteks will "rescue" us with mounts for who already have coolers.


----------



## aerial

Joined Phanteks club


----------



## doyll

@ aerial
Very nice looking build.


----------



## Alexyy

Hey I just installed my PHTC14PE and it seems to be working great, I'm using the two fan spliter to single PWM control and I was wondering how I should control the fans


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alexyy*
> 
> Hey I just installed my PHTC14PE and it seems to be working great, I'm using the two fan spliter to single PWM control and I was wondering how I should control the fans


What motherboard are you using?


----------



## Alexyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> What motherboard are you using?


Gigabyte z97 gaming 7


----------



## speculate

Hopefully my fans don't die and i get good customer service like you.

This newegg review for white phanteks 10/21/2014 didn't get the same treatment. _"Middle fan started having motor issues within 2 months of use. Phanteks requires that I pay the shipping on the RMA. Considering the price of the fan, thats some expensive shipping."_
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> I phoned Phanteks on Dec 15 and told them one the fans died, never ask a single reason, just the invoice of the cooler. After 24 hours they send me a tracking number and in less than a week, I received the replacement fan, in Canada.
> 
> Phanteks CS is awesome. I want to stick with this cooler for a while


That would be very nice if they did that copy how noctua does things. Might not need a new mounting kit for awhile though sat on my lga 775 for about 6 years.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm sure if CPU mounting changes Phanteks will "rescue" us with mounts for who already have coolers.


----------



## aerial

Few more pics, two fans, different case:
https://picasaweb.google.com/104030131291922028430/LianLiV1020Rev2


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerial*
> 
> Few more pics, two fans, different case:
> https://picasaweb.google.com/104030131291922028430/LianLiV1020Rev2
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice.
Black cooler with black fan housing and black fans is a great combo. I'm building one with TY-147A fans.


----------



## uten

I noticed at least one person has painted their fan housing, and I'm still waiting on mine to get here (gotta love SurePost), so I thought I'd ask a few questions as I really want to paint mine.

Can the fans be dismantled? If so, how easy is it?

If not, how did you go about painting the fan housing?

Just need some idea of how feasible the idea is - I really like the fans, having seen them inside a build, but I really don't want any white in my machine if I can help it - although I will make an exception for these fans if painting them won't work.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uten*
> 
> I noticed at least one person has painted their fan housing, and I'm still waiting on mine to get here (gotta love SurePost), so I thought I'd ask a few questions as I really want to paint mine.
> 
> Can the fans be dismantled? If so, how easy is it?
> 
> If not, how did you go about painting the fan housing?
> 
> Just need some idea of how feasible the idea is - I really like the fans, having seen them inside a build, but I really don't want any white in my machine if I can help it - although I will make an exception for these fans if painting them won't work.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


I don't know of a way to disassemble them.

Mask the fan with masking tape and spray paint the housing..


----------



## uten

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I don't know of a way to disassemble them.
> 
> Mask the fan with masking tape and spray paint the housing..


Thanks, I didn't think they could be dismantled. After taking a good look at them today, I'm sorta of two minds about painting them. Has anyone painted them successfully? By that I mean painted them and they're still running.

As a just in case, what black & red or just red fan would work best as a replacement fan - I'm going to use three fans. Thanks again.


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uten*
> 
> Thanks, I didn't think they could be dismantled. After taking a good look at them today, I'm sorta of two minds about painting them. Has anyone painted them successfully? By that I mean painted them and they're still running.


I've painted them successfully and running for two hours as I've said in the previous posts. Been thinking to try liquid mask for RC car bodies for the housing instead of masking tape. Tape is just too thick for the fan blades.


----------



## Banda

Changed my blue phanteks for a gold one.


----------



## doyll

Looking good Banda


----------



## 8051

Anyone ever experiment w/using different fans on their PH-TC14PE?

I was going to try a pair of Thermalright TY-150 fans but they stick
out too much and interfere w/my first PCIe slot.

I ended up trying a shrouded, voltage controlled, 120mm Delta,
AFB1212HHE pushing through the front and the stock Phantek's
140mm x 25mm in the center.


----------



## doyll

Never tried TY-150, but have used TY-140, TY-143, TY-147 and new TY-147A and TY-149 on several different coolers (R1, TC14PE, NH-D15) with good results.

TY-147A & TY-149 are 300-1300rpm @ 74cfm, TY-143 650-2500rpm @ 130cfm and all others are 650-1300rpm @ 74cfm.
TY-143 performs and sounds the same as others up to 1300rpm, but obviously keeps on going moving more air and making more noise up to 130cfm @ 2500rpm

I first did this on TC14PE with stock F140TS that were not PWM. I have not tried TC14PE with newer PWM fans as I don't have any. I suspect they are similar to TY-140 & TY-147.


----------



## 8051

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Never tried TY-150, but have used TY-140, TY-143, TY-147 and new TY-147A and TY-149 on several different coolers (R1, TC14PE, NH-D15) with good results.
> 
> TY-147A & TY-149 are 300-1300rpm @ 74cfm, TY-143 650-2500rpm @ 130cfm and all others are 650-1300rpm @ 74cfm.
> TY-143 performs and sounds the same as others up to 1300rpm, but obviously keeps on going moving more air and making more noise up to 130cfm @ 2500rpm
> 
> I first did this on TC14PE with stock F140TS that were not PWM. I have not tried TC14PE with newer PWM fans as I don't have any. I suspect they are similar to TY-140 & TY-147.


I have the newer Phanteks PWM PH-F140 on my PH-TC14PE -- they don't seem to move
much air.

I think I'm going to look up the specs/price on the TY-143, I'm not impressed by the Phanteks stock
140mm fan at all (although it is quiet).


----------



## Space Marine

After 234 pages of thread, did any important cons/problem of this heatsink show up?

Would you suggest getting this heatsink for 50 euros over a D15 for 70 euros?
Also, at the same price (50), would you go for the phanteks or a D14?


----------



## 8051

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Space Marine*
> 
> After 234 pages of thread, did any important cons/problem of this heatsink show up?
> 
> Would you suggest getting this heatsink for 50 euros over a D15 for 70 euros?
> Also, at the same price (50), would you go for the phanteks or a D14?


If you want to use the topmost PCIe slot on your motherboard, it might be
good to look at the relative widths of the heatsinks. With the Phanteks I have
a couple of mm's (10 at most) to spare between the heatsink and the topmost
PCIe slot. That's for a East to West (side to side) orientation.


----------



## Space Marine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8051*
> 
> If you want to use the topmost PCIe slot on your motherboard, it might be
> good to look at the relative widths of the heatsinks. With the Phanteks I have
> a couple of mm's (10 at most) to spare between the heatsink and the topmost
> PCIe slot. That's for a East to West (side to side) orientation.


Im using a P6T vanilla inside an 800d, i think it should be fine


----------



## doyll

I've been using TC14PE sense they first came out with only praise for it's performance and looks.

The PH-TC14PE is 140mm wide plus a few mm for fan clips. Few motherboards have less than 70mm center CPU to first PCIe socket.

If a motherboard does not have 70mm, there are a few coolers like Silver Arrow IB-E having 68mm center CPU to PCIe socket. It is 155mm wide, but base is offset for better clearance. Also TRUE Spirit 140 rev.A and and Archon IB-E X2 with 69mm and 155mm width.

Other option is 120mm fanned coolers.


----------



## 8051

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I've been using TC14PE sense they first came out with only praise for it's performance and looks.
> 
> The PH-TC14PE is 140mm wide plus a few mm for fan clips. Few motherboards have less than 70mm center CPU to first PCIe socket.
> 
> If a motherboard does not have 70mm, there are a few coolers like Silver Arrow IB-E having 68mm center CPU to PCIe socket. It is 155mm wide, but base is offset for better clearance. Also TRUE Spirit 140 rev.A and and Archon IB-E X2 with 69mm and 155mm width.
> 
> Other option is 120mm fanned coolers.


You mean the Archon SB-E X2 right? I have the Archon SB-E (almost the exact same specs
as the SB-E X2) and the bare heatsink interferes w/the first PCIe slot on my Asrock x79 Extreme4.


----------



## doyll

No, I mean Archon IB-E X2


Original Archon is 6x 6mm pipes while Archon SB-E and Archon IB-E are 8x 6mm pipes and Archon IB-E has offset base
As compared to Archon SB-E X2 and Archon


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Space Marine

Is it actually worth to attach a 3rd fan to this cooler? Any decent gain in temps?


----------



## 8051

Does the shorter fin stack on the IB-E affect its performance
relative to the SB-E?

The offset mounting is a brilliant idea.

I've read a review that suggests the original Archon might be
better than the SB-E because it has a tighter fin stack and
consquently more surface area, it didn't really account for
the fact that there are more heatpipes in the SB-E though,
although in my SB-E, some of the heatpipes don't seem to
be connected to all the fins in the fin stack.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8051*
> 
> Does the shorter fin stack on the IB-E affect its performance
> relative to the SB-E?
> 
> The offset mounting is a brilliant idea.
> 
> I've read a review that suggests the original Archon might be
> better than the SB-E because it has a tighter fin stack and
> consquently more surface area, it didn't really account for
> the fact that there are more heatpipes in the SB-E though,
> although in my SB-E, some of the heatpipes don't seem to
> be connected to all the fins in the fin stack.


SB-E has round top and bottom, IB-E is flat. Both have same amount of fin area area and where outer pipes on SB-E do not have fins, on IB-E they do.









But this is Phanteks tread, and we shouldn't be hi-jacking with other cooler talk.


----------



## Leylan

Does anyone know if I can purchase one of these bolts from a hardware store? I must be the unluckiest person with Phantek 14, last year two of these were missing hardware and they sent me one due to all the issues, lo and behold its missing one of the bolts, the rubber strips, (i'll just live without), no pwm cable, just the splitter and though surprised to see it on the parts list the 8 case screws. The bolt is one of the 4x socket screws on the parts list page.
Thank you so very much if anyone knows where to grab one of these.

phantekpartsBolts.jpg 79k .jpg file


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leylan*
> 
> Does anyone know if I can purchase one of these bolts from a hardware store? I must be the unluckiest person with Phantek 14, last year two of these were missing hardware and they sent me one due to all the issues, lo and behold its missing one of the bolts, the rubber strips, (i'll just live without), no pwm cable, just the splitter and though surprised to see it on the parts list the 8 case screws. The bolt is one of the 4x socket screws on the parts list page.
> Thank you so very much if anyone knows where to grab one of these.
> 
> phantekpartsBolts.jpg 79k .jpg file


Call Phanteks support. Have your copy of receipt or invoice for them and they might send you replacement bolts.


----------



## Leylan

Thank you for the reply Todd, but I don't have that sort of time. I need to comp the build in the next couple of days. I dealt with their support last year and despite repeated phone calls and emails never got anywhere. I received some aid from the rep of this forum but still waited six weeks or better. I really need to try and replace it locally at this point. I was hoping someone might know if its even feasible to do that. If not I won't waste time running about to hardware stores all day tomorrow in hunt of it. Thank you though for replying. I do appreciate it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leylan*
> 
> Does anyone know if I can purchase one of these bolts from a hardware store? I must be the unluckiest person with Phantek 14, last year two of these were missing hardware and they sent me one due to all the issues, lo and behold its missing one of the bolts, the rubber strips, (i'll just live without), no pwm cable, just the splitter and though surprised to see it on the parts list the 8 case screws. The bolt is one of the 4x socket screws on the parts list page.
> Thank you so very much if anyone knows where to grab one of these.
> 
> phantekpartsBolts.jpg 79k .jpg file


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leylan*
> 
> Thank you for the reply Todd, but I don't have that sort of time. I need to comp the build in the next couple of days. I dealt with their support last year and despite repeated phone calls and emails never got anywhere. I received some aid from the rep of this forum but still waited six weeks or better. I really need to try and replace it locally at this point. I was hoping someone might know if its even feasible to do that. If not I won't waste time running about to hardware stores all day tomorrow in hunt of it. Thank you though for replying. I do appreciate it.


I'm sorry to be suspicious, but you give us three (possibly four) questionable scenarios with Phanteks. Many of us have had dealing with Phanteks customer service involving coolers and cases .. often for help with things not part of their responsibility. In the USA Brian does a fantastic job of helping us whenever it is needed. Yun in EU does well too.

If you bought it new and unopened, there is little to no chance of missing parts, and the chance of getting a replacement mounting kit with many pieces missing is even less likely.

Add all of the above to the fact you need this build done immediately and can't wait for parts ...

But to answer your question, no, they are not available locally. They are specific to Phanteks cooler mount.


----------



## Leylan

Doyll,

I very much appreciate your time in replying. I thank you too for the wisdom and information that I will be unable to obtain that bolt locally. I did not so much appreciate being called out as questionable, untruthful or whatever other agenda you're suspicious of.

Rather than posting a rather long reply to you here, I'll pm you. I'm pming you as I'm not sure my initial post to you should be public but you may feel free to post it.

You were, I think, one of the people who replied to my thread last year on said coolers, both BOUGHT NEW, BOTH MISSING hardware. As incredulous as that may be to you or anyone else doesn't change it is in fact exactly what happened for me. It also doesn't change at all the less than stellar customer service I received afterward either. I have the communications with the reps on this forum. I will also say just because the majority of people receive excellent customer service from a company doesn't mean there isn't a minority with horrible customer service from the same company's. The fact you and many others have been in the former is wonderful and I'm glad for each and every one of you. That I very... unfortunately... fell into the latter I don't so much rejoice for. I came to the forum for aid and listed what all was wrong and what I needed a solution for if possible. I came because I believe in the collective wisdom the forum represents. Again, thank you, it would appear that solution won't be had locally. I have correctly given my experiences and stand by them only because they are exactly what happened to me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If you bought it new and unopened, there is little to no chance of missing parts, and the chance of getting a replacement mounting kit with many pieces missing is even less likely.
> 
> quote]
> 
> Despite what you said, there was more than little and certainly a LOT more than "no chance" as it absolutely DID happen to me, not once, not twice, but three times.Two coolers were purchased as brand new, NONOPEN BOX, UNUSED and both were missing the hardware previously listed a year or so ago here in this thread and the hardware listed yesterday is out of the cooler, they sent me exactly as I stated in my first post yesterday, because of the issues with the first two that weren't corrected by them. Count that as number THREE total now that no matter how "unbelievable" had missing hardware.
> 
> As in my pm, my offer for you to view the contents of this cooler unit box's contents and build live via cam still stands.


----------



## Riddick51PB

ok so my FD Define Mini (mATX) will be here today. am probly going with this ASRock mATX MB. what are my chances of getting a PH-TC14PE to fit next to a double-wide graphics card in the first PCI-Ex16 3.0 slot? good? slim-to-none?

i know the fans on the PH-TC14PE usually sit above the top level of the cooling fins. i'm wondering why i can't just push the middle fan down until its top is flusha with the top cooling fins. the ddr3 side fan: i'm wondering if i can get away with the same treatment, except angling the bottom of the fan away from the heatsink to bring it flush with the top cooling fins.

any criticisms or thoughts before i do this? i can always get a noctua cooler instead. altho i'd be puttin in those special iPP black fans instead of the brown ones.


----------



## gasolin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riddick51PB*
> 
> ok so my FD Define Mini (mATX) will be here today. am probly going with this ASRock mATX MB. what are my chances of getting a PH-TC14PE to fit next to a double-wide graphics card in the first PCI-Ex16 3.0 slot? good? slim-to-none?
> 
> i know the fans on the PH-TC14PE usually sit above the top level of the cooling fins. i'm wondering why i can't just push the middle fan down until its top is flusha with the top cooling fins. the ddr3 side fan: i'm wondering if i can get away with the same treatment, except angling the bottom of the fan away from the heatsink to bring it flush with the top cooling fins.
> 
> any criticisms or thoughts before i do this? i can always get a noctua cooler instead. altho i'd be puttin in those special iPP black fans instead of the brown ones.


None since max supported cup cooler height is 160mm in a define mini and a PH-TC14PE is 160 mm heigh WITHOUT FANS, with dual fans 171mm


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riddick51PB*
> 
> ok so my FD Define Mini (mATX) will be here today. am probly going with this ASRock mATX MB. what are my chances of getting a PH-TC14PE to fit next to a double-wide graphics card in the first PCI-Ex16 3.0 slot? good? slim-to-none?
> 
> i know the fans on the PH-TC14PE usually sit above the top level of the cooling fins. i'm wondering why i can't just push the middle fan down until its top is flusha with the top cooling fins. the ddr3 side fan: i'm wondering if i can get away with the same treatment, except angling the bottom of the fan away from the heatsink to bring it flush with the top cooling fins.
> 
> any criticisms or thoughts before i do this? i can always get a noctua cooler instead. altho i'd be puttin in those special iPP black fans instead of the brown ones.


Z97M OC Formula has 75mm clearance from center of CPU to edge of PCIe socket and 51mm to edge of RAM socket.

PH-TC14PE is 70mm center to side and 67mm to front with 49mm RAM clearance. Might need to insulate the fan clip handle that sticks out so it doesn't short out against video card, but other than that you will be fine. You will not be able to use the front fan unless your RAM is less than 25mm tall, and if you replace the big barrel nut screw in center of cooler that holds the crossbar on with a small screw (either a HDD or optical bay screw is right size and thread) you can set the center fan down so it is flush with top of cooler. If you can't easily install the front fan, one fan is fine. There is only about 2c difference between 1 fan and 2 fans.

Also, when installing the mount, don't tighten the screws on top side without test mounting the cooler to be sure all connections line up properly. Than tighten the mounting frame screws, remove cooler and install with TIM. Don't forget to remove the clear plastic on bottom of cooler.


----------



## doyll

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gasolin*
> 
> None since max supported cup cooler height is 160mm in a define mini and a PH-TC14PE is 160 mm heigh WITHOUT FANS, with dual fans 171mm


Do as I said above and center fan fit's just fine.


----------



## Riddick51PB

thanks for your concerns and input guys. im really bent on getting this ph-tc14pe cooler, so its good news for me. 8)


----------



## doyll

Mounting the center fan low also helps keep other motherboard components cool .. better airflow over motherboard.


----------



## sweenytodd

Doyll do you know if the cooler fits in a Asus Maximus VII Impact? Right now I'm thinking to downsize my rig. Thanks.


----------



## VSG

More like if the motherboard will fit the cooler, AMIRITE?









But in all seriousness, the motherboard itself shouldn't be any issue. Check for Ram and case compatibility as well though!


----------



## doyll

What geggeg said.


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> More like if the motherboard will fit the cooler, AMIRITE?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But in all seriousness, the motherboard itself shouldn't be any issue. Check for Ram and case compatibility as well though!


Yes, case would be a Phanteks Evolv ITX, I will be using either Maximus VI or VII Impact w/ the PH-TC14PE cooler just to be clear


----------



## doyll

I was just looking at the Maximus VI Impact and VII Impact and am not sure what coolers will fit over the daughter boards. From center CPU toward PCIe socket is only 61mm to daughter board and other way it is about 53mm. The heatpipes enter bottom of cooler fins about 53mm from center and bottom fin is 44mm above CPU .. that's 52mm above motherboard.

Evolv has like 200mm CPU clearance so lots of room.


----------



## VSG

Oh I did not consider the heatpipes possibly hitting that daughterboard. Good call! @sweenytodd, mind providing some more measurements regarding the height and distance of the daughterboard from the top of the CPU socket if you have the board already? If not, I would suggest hitting up the respective Owner's Club on OCN to find out.


----------



## sweenytodd

Just found these out on Ocaholic









Mobo is VI Impact.


----------



## doyll

Here are detailed measurements of PH-TC14PE. Hopefully it will help


----------



## VSG

Doyll, that is excellent. Can I use it (and credit you) in my review on my website?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Doyll, that is excellent. Can I use it (and credit you) in my review on my website?


You have PM


----------



## VSG

Great


----------



## Himo5

Although my gold Phanteks arrived with both lids loose and their lugs at various angles and states of intactness I decided to treat it as a modding opportunity rather than a further delay.


Anyway, none of this affects the cooler's performance, which is excellent, and the way I can get it in this 190mm case using AP-29s without having to rebuild the side panel and with increased cooling efficiency as well.


I notice there is a 15mm gap between the cooler fins and the backplate of a Powercolor Devil R9-270X in the first PCIE 16x slot of an Asus A88X-PRO and a much larger gap between the surface of the motherboard and the bottom of the cooler fins. In fact, there's enough space underneath the Cooler - where the only air shifting will be the top extractor fan - for a battery of small fans and/or blowers to move the air off the RAM and VRM and into the path of that top extractor fan - it might also be possible, using the gap above the South Bridge under the end of the GPU for a 40x40x10mm fan to blow air up the tunnel between the two sticks of ram under the edge of the first Cooler fan.

It would be interesting to know if anyone else has tried to do something about the area of still air underneath these big tower coolers.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Although my gold Phanteks arrived with both lids loose and their lugs at various angles and states of intactness I decided to treat it as a modding opportunity rather than a further delay.
> 
> 
> Anyway, none of this affects the cooler's performance, which is excellent, and the way I can get it in this 190mm case using AP-29s without having to rebuild the side panel and with increased cooling efficiency as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I notice there is a 15mm gap between the cooler fins and the backplate of a Powercolor Devil R9-270X in the first PCIE 16x slot of an Asus A88X-PRO and a much larger gap between the surface of the motherboard and the bottom of the cooler fins. In fact, there's enough space underneath the Cooler - where the only air shifting will be the top extractor fan - for a battery of small fans and/or blowers to move the air off the RAM and VRM and into the path of that top extractor fan - it might also be possible, using the gap above the South Bridge under the end of the GPU for a 40x40x10mm fan to blow air up the tunnel between the two sticks of ram under the edge of the first Cooler fan.
> 
> It would be interesting to know if anyone else has tried to do something about the area of still air underneath these big tower coolers.


On my x58A-UD5 the top and bottom area between cooler and motherboard is boxed with venting onto mobo heat sinks. Works quite well.


----------



## Himo5

Yes. I can see that really is a boxing-in effect - reliant - I suppose, on what you can do for ventilating the heatsinks, especially the big one below the CPU. Have you any idea what effect ventilating that area would have on cooling the VRM?


----------



## doyll

On mine I keep the CPU fans at 650-700rpm idle @48-52c NB and it never gets hotter. As load increases so does fan speed keeping NB the same to a degree cooler. If the fans idle lower the NB runs hotter until fan speed increases.


----------



## Himo5

I think that shows the importance of good heatsinks on a motherboard. With the A88X-PRO's moderate heatsinks and the high voltages set in the A10-7870K's P-States there is probably going to be more hot air around the VRM than those heatsinks were designed to cope with. The back exhaust fan is obscured from that area by the way the Cooler overhangs it and the top extractor is only a few millimeters away from that gap between the top of the VRM heatsink and the bottom fin of the Cooler. There is enough room, for example, between the Cooler's heatpipes for a 60x60x20mm fan to blow downwards and force the air around the heatsinks up towards the extractor fans. What do you think?


----------



## doyll

Motherboard airflow design is still based on the old down flow coolers that flowed air out from CPU in all directions. I'm found leaving the I/O shield out usually improves temps .. as does low profile RAM (allows cooler fan to set lower and move more air under cooler),


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> I think that shows the importance of good heatsinks on a motherboard. With the A88X-PRO's moderate heatsinks and the high voltages set in the A10-7870K's P-States there is probably going to be more hot air around the VRM than those heatsinks were designed to cope with. The back exhaust fan is obscured from that area by the way the Cooler overhangs it and the top extractor is only a few millimeters away from that gap between the top of the VRM heatsink and the bottom fin of the Cooler. There is enough room, for example, between the Cooler's heatpipes for a 60x60x20mm fan to blow downwards and force the air around the heatsinks up towards the extractor fans. What do you think?


Keeping the VRMs cool with air cooling can be problematic. Maybe a fan on the back side of the motherboard can help. It helps the watercooling rigs. For myself I lower the center fan as low as it will go and that blows some air right at the VRMs. But the only coolers I know of that have adjustable fans are the Noctua D14, D15 and the Silverstone HE01.

I have installed 2 A88X-PROs with mild overclocks and when I stress tested them all temps were very cool, but that was 1-2 years ago. I can't remember if the VRM temps showed or not, or if I shot them with a laser thermometer gun.


----------



## doyll

What coolers do not have adjustable fan positions? Only ones I know of are ones with plastic fan mounts.
Thermalright coolers allow fans to be moved up and down, as do Phanteks, Cryorig, ID-Cooling, Lepa, etc.


----------



## Himo5

For really exact air cooling close to the board I'm beginning to look at distributive air ducting using 1Amp+ blowers in the front of the case instead of trying to squeeze fans into tight places.

In fact, continuing to look into it, blower(s) in disused parts of the drive cages can be placed over RPCM® Cool Packs, which are cooled above the dew point, and deliver cooled air through the ducts to wherever it is needed - it could produce a revolution in cooling.
(RPCM = Renewable Phase Change Material)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> For really exact air cooling close to the board I'm beginning to look at distributive air ducting using 1Amp+ blowers in the front of the case instead of trying to squeeze fans into tight places.
> 
> In fact, continuing to look into it, blower(s) in disused parts of the drive cages can be placed over RPCM® Cool Packs, which are cooled above the dew point, and deliver cooled air through the ducts to wherever it is needed - it could produce a revolution in cooling.
> (RPCM = Renewable Phase Change Material)


Sounds a bit extreme .. would have to keep changing Cool Packs and blowers are quite noisy.


----------



## Himo5

But less extreme than a lot of water cooling solutions, and only visualised as a last gasp stage in a stepped, multi-stage arrangement. Miklkit's mention of backplane cooling reminds me that backplane contacts behind the CPU and VRM can also be cooled just as well by air duct as by fans.

A multi-stage fan control plan is something that I'm sure most fan controllers can arrange, but here's a simple example of it:


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What coolers do not have adjustable fan positions? Only ones I know of are ones with plastic fan mounts.
> Thermalright coolers allow fans to be moved up and down, as do Phanteks, Cryorig, ID-Cooling, Lepa, etc.


Most do not appear to be adjustable from looking at pictures of them although I have not physically looked at them in person. The only one I have personal experience with is the Thermalright IB-E Extreme and those fans are locked in place. I wanted to move them up and down but could not.

Being proved wrong in this case would be a good thing as I would start recommending those coolers. There are some users who are stuck with overheating boards that would benefit from being able to move the fans.

EDIT: Yes getting more air to the back side of the motherboard will help out most motherboards. Those with wide cases put a fan back there. My first attempt was to place an air scoop inside the case to move intake air to the back of the motherboard, but all that did was make the CPU run hotter. My next attempt will be with a Silverstone FM121 110 cfm fan in that location.


----------



## Himo5

To be fair, the PH-TC14PE makes raising and lowering its fan positions very easy. However, since the two outer fans will be resting on the RAM and the VRM heatsinks only a 14cm central fan can have any effect and then only either against one part of the VRM heatsinks or sucking heat away from one side of only one of the ramsticks. Whether that small section on the circumference of the fan's air tunnel is sufficient to properly ventilate this, the hottest area on the board, is another matter.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Most do not appear to be adjustable from looking at pictures of them although I have not physically looked at them in person. The only one I have personal experience with is the Thermalright IB-E Extreme and those fans are locked in place. I wanted to move them up and down but could not.
> 
> Being proved wrong in this case would be a good thing as I would start recommending those coolers. There are some users who are stuck with overheating boards that would benefit from being able to move the fans.
> 
> EDIT: Yes getting more air to the back side of the motherboard will help out most motherboards. Those with wide cases put a fan back there. My first attempt was to place an air scoop inside the case to move intake air to the back of the motherboard, but all that did was make the CPU run hotter. My next attempt will be with a Silverstone FM121 110 cfm fan in that location.


The fan clips are the limiting factor. There is only about 5mm of movement without modifying them. Let me look around and see if I can find another fan clip that will give more movement.. If not the stock clips could be modified to give more movement.


----------



## miklkit

This is what I mean by lowering the fan.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> This is what I mean by lowering the fan.


Easily done on a TC14PE.

Could always use zip-ties.


----------



## miklkit

For the top sure, but not sure about the bottom. Will have to buy one to see.


----------



## doyll

Big rubberbands work well too. Just put a half twist in them on either side of fans (to stop them from vibrating). Really, old trucker's trick.


----------



## simonx123

Hello,

I need the community's help!
As you can see in my signature, I own a PH-TC14PE and my problem is my temp. I know somewhat that 85c is "acceptable" on Haswell-E, however, it bugs/worries me some (especially when reading all these stories about how great the Phanteks is)...
Anyways, at my current 4.4Ghz, my max temps peaks @ 86 on the hottest 2 cores. IF I push my OC to 4.5 but temps are quickly rising to 92+c. I reapplied TIM several times without significant changes. I was wondering if I hit the wall using AIR cooler or it may be something else (air-flow, settings, etc).
Is PH-TC14PE not strong enough for my build (5820K Haswell-E)? Would you recommend to buy and install more fans (~$20-$30) to improve the airflow, or should I save that money and go ahead and replace the Phanteks with AIO Water (~$100)? I would really prefer AIR though...
My full specs are in my signature.

Please help, as you are my last resort.
Thank you in advance!


----------



## doyll

@simonx123
Answered you in other thread.
It is advisable to only post a questions once. If not answered in 24 hours bump or post somewhere else. But post same thing twice in minutes is a waste.


----------



## simonx123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @simonx123
> The first thing I would do is set up a thermometer to monitor what your cooler intake air temperature is.
> 
> I'm not sure how good the stock R5 fans are. I know the Define R4 fans were not up to the task of hi-performance airflow. Several users here have optimized their Define case airflow.
> Here is one
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1560813/best-fan-config-to-keep-r4-quiet/0_20
> 
> X61 is little if any better than TC14PE, maybe 2c .. but it is about 4 times as loud .. 65dBA compared to 45dBA.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my opinion the only AIOs worth getting are Swiftech or a packaged loop you assemble and fill yourself.
> 
> Let's figure out what your cooler intake air temp is under heavy load. My guess is it's quite a bit warmer than the room.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @simonx123
> Answered you in other thread.
> It is advisable to only post a questions once. If not answered in 24 hours bump or post somewhere else. But post same thing twice in minutes is a waste.


Sure thing







I understand. I found this thread 30min after I posted on the other forum and assumed that I would get more help here, since this is a much larger and more appropriate forum for my problem. Sorry








I will buy the thermometer per your suggestion and report back the results.
Thank you for your prompt reply!


----------



## simonx123

Hi Doyll,

So I bought the thermometer and clipped it right in front of my Phanteks cooler (2cm distance). My cooler's intake air temps are:
Idle: 25.1 C (76.8F)
Under Load (aida): 25 C
Room temps: 25 C

So the load temps are slightly lower (0.1); most likely due to more Rpm under load. Please advise


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonx123*
> 
> Hi Doyll,
> 
> So I bought the thermometer and clipped it right in front of my Phanteks cooler (2cm distance). My cooler's intake air temps are:
> Idle: 25.1 C (76.8F)
> Under Load (aida): 25 C
> Room temps: 25 C
> 
> So the load temps are slightly lower (0.1); most likely due to more Rpm under load. Please advise


Darn!








I was really hoping to see a major difference in cooler intake vs room temps. I am very surprised they are the same. I assume your CPU temps were quite high under load?
Have you tried moving the sensor around in front of fan? Maybe the temps very. Good cooling cases are usually 2-3 warmer than room. Differences of 8-11c are common and sometimes even higher.

Assuming it'\s not an airflow problem, that leaves us with several other possibilities.
CPU chip to IHS has a poor TIM seat.
IHS to cooler has a poor seat (but you have re-applied) How much TIM do you use?
Defective cooler (very unlikely.)
Very hot running chip (due to silicone lottery).
Cooler fans not spinning up as fast as they should.

I don't suppose someone you know has a top tier cooler similar to TC14PE you to try to see if it performs the same / similar to yours?


----------



## simonx123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Darn!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was really hoping to see a major difference in cooler intake vs room temps. I am very surprised they are the same. I assume your CPU temps were quite high under load?


Yeah, I kanda was too! Unfortunately, they are the same... CPU got hot as usual (86C on core #3).
Quote:


> Have you tried moving the sensor around in front of fan? Maybe the temps very. Good cooling cases are usually 2-3 warmer than room. Differences of 8-11c are common and sometimes even higher.


I haven't tried it but I will... I always notice that the front of the cooler is always very cool. It gets a lot warmer on the back (towards the exhaust).
Quote:


> Assuming it'\s not an airflow problem, that leaves us with several other possibilities.
> CPU chip to IHS has a poor TIM seat.
> Very hot running chip (due to silicone lottery).
> IHS to cooler has a poor seat (but you have re-applied) How much TIM do you use?
> Defective cooler (very unlikely.)


I reapplied 4 times (with larger qty peas size to rice grain skinny line). I RMA'd the cooler and received a new one - SAME thing.
Quote:


> Cooler fans not spinning up as fast as they should.


Actually, according to Aida, they spin faster than they spec'd at - at load they spin @1,560rpm (don't know if its normal)...
Quote:


> I don't suppose someone you know has a top tier cooler similar to TC14PE you to try to see if it performs the same / similar to yours?


Unfortunately, I don't... maybe someone here has a similar setup with a similar issue?


----------



## simonx123

I re-positioned the sensor a little and the temps are:
Room - 23C
Idle - 23.8C
Load - 27C
Any other ideas Doyll?

Also, is it normal for the Phanteks fans to spin @ 1,560rpm under full load?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonx123*
> 
> I re-positioned the sensor a little and the temps are:
> Room - 23C
> Idle - 23.8C
> Load - 27C
> Any other ideas Doyll?
> 
> Also, is it normal for the Phanteks fans to spin @ 1,560rpm under full load?


Fans have a +/-10% margin of error for fan speed. So a 1500rpm fan at full speed may be as low as 1350rpm or as high as 1650rpm. In my experience they are usually within +/-5% (1425-1575rpm.) .. which is right where yours are.

These case air temps sound more realistic.








How long did you run the 100% load test? We might be able to lower the load air temp a couple degrees. Higher flow case and cooler fans are an option. What is our case fan setup now? Sorry, I can't remember.









Also, where on our big blue marble do you live?


----------



## simonx123

I thought the Phanteks fans spin at 1200 rpm with +/- 10%.... Aren't they?

1. I ran the Aida for an hour.
2. Couple degrees is better than nothing. So I'll take it








3. My current set up:
1 front intake. 2 rear exhaust (1 on the back and 1 on top rear). I know I need more intakes for positive pressure. Before I changed to the current setup I had 2 front intakes and one rear exhaust but I switched because my vrm was getting little too hot. The core temps are absolutely the same with both configurations.
4. I live in the U.S.

Tnx doyll!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonx123*
> 
> I thought the Phanteks fans spin at 1200 rpm with +/- 10%.... Aren't they?
> 
> 1. I ran the Aida for an hour.
> 2. Couple degrees is better than nothing. So I'll take it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. My current set up:
> 1 front intake. 2 rear exhaust (1 on the back and 1 on top rear). I know I need more intakes for positive pressure. Before I changed to the current setup I had 2 front intakes and one rear exhaust but I switched because my vrm was getting little too hot. The core temps are absolutely the same with both configurations.
> 4. I live in the U.S.
> 
> Tnx doyll!


Depends on which fans you have. Original PH-F140CS were 1200rpm, PH-F140XP are 1200rpm PH-F140HP are 1300rpm, PH-F140HP II are 1600rpm and PH-F140MP is 1600rpm


----------



## simonx123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Fans have a +/-10% margin of error for fan speed. So a 1500rpm fan at full speed may be as low as 1350rpm or as high as 1650rpm. In my experience they are usually within +/-5% (1425-1575rpm.) .. which is right where yours are.
> 
> These case air temps sound more realistic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How long did you run the 100% load test? We might be able to lower the load air temp a couple degrees. Higher flow case and cooler fans are an option. What is our case fan setup now? Sorry, I can't remember.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, where on our big blue marble do you live?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonx123*
> 
> I thought the Phanteks fans spin at 1200 rpm with +/- 10%.... Aren't they?
> 
> 1. I ran the Aida for an hour.
> 2. Couple degrees is better than nothing. So I'll take it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. My current set up:
> 1 front intake. 2 rear exhaust (1 on the back and 1 on top rear). I know I need more intakes for positive pressure. Before I changed to the current setup I had 2 front intakes and one rear exhaust but I switched because my vrm was getting little too hot. The core temps are absolutely the same with both configurations.
> 4. I live in the U.S.
> 
> Tnx doyll!


So based on your comment, I guess my only choice would be to install "cooler fans" in my R5, which may help lowering the temps a couple degrees.
If this is the case:
1. Would you recommend the Noctua Fan NF-A14, A15 or anything else? (I know you like the TY-147, however, it will require to cut the round edges of the TY, which I rather not to mess with that).
2. How many fans should I buy? (I thought to buy 2 and use them in addition to the 3 Fractals I currently have)
3. What fan setup would you recommend for the best airflow?

Thank you.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonx123*
> 
> So based on your comment, I guess my only choice would be to install "cooler fans" in my R5, which may help lowering the temps a couple degrees.
> If this is the case:
> 1. Would you recommend the Noctua Fan NF-A14, A15 or anything else? (I know you like the TY-147, however, it will require to cut the round edges of the TY, which I rather not to mess with that).
> 2. How many fans should I buy? (I thought to buy 2 and use them in addition to the 3 Fractals I currently have)
> 3. What fan setup would you recommend for the best airflow?
> 
> Thank you.


A15 is like TY-147 in both performance and shape.
NF-A14 PWM is square version of TY-14x series fans. I have not personally used any but they should work very well I would probably get 3 of them for front and bottom intakes. They will be all you need. Exhaust fans are optional and probably make no difference. Without knowing what you have available and pricing it's hard to say what is best choice.


----------



## draterrojam

I sold this cooler off a while ago and was thinking about getting this or the R1. Still thinking but I was wondering what kind of fans could I replace the ones that come with it if I did get it? I am going for more of a black out build. Suggestions?


----------



## Himo5

My cases only have 159mm clearance, so 140mm is not an option. The only way of equalling that kind of ventilation in 120mm is 38mm thickness, so I use Sanyo Denki 9G1212HG105 120x38mm 3600rpm San Ace for the push and extractor fans and an AP29 or something similar in the center. I get them all from ModDiy. Needless to say, when I'm after an overclock noise doesn't worry me.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *draterrojam*
> 
> I sold this cooler off a while ago and was thinking about getting this or the R1. Still thinking but I was wondering what kind of fans could I replace the ones that come with it if I did get it? I am going for more of a black out build. Suggestions?


This is a hard fan to find. There are few all black 140mm fans with 105mm (120mm fan) mount spacing. Scythe GlideStream 140 is only one I can think of. Their Kaze Maru was very good, but sadly discontinued. Thermalright TY-147A is black housing with white fan and TY-149 is black housing with red fan. Cryorig fans are black with dark peuter / almost black housing.

What about the black Phanteks and paint the fan shroud black? The fan is already black. I use TY-147 fans on my black TC14PE for their black shroud, but as already said, fan is white.


----------



## fjordiales

TY-147a on phanteks tc14pe.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fjordiales*
> 
> TY-147a on phanteks tc14pe.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice!. Really look like they belong.
I have TY-147s' on mine .. with TY-147A case intake fans and no exhaust fans.
Moving it to white Enthoo Luxe so might change fans to some Phanteks fans again.


----------



## DontWorryScro

I just bought 2 Phanteks PH-F140XP's as case fans before I realized my Gigabyte Z97 mobo only has one true PWM fan header. Instead of returning these fans for a 3-pin variant, or buying a PWM splitter and losing individual control or just slapping them in as-is and allowing them to be voltage controlled would it be ok if I just swapped them onto the TC14PE I have coming tomorrow which apparently comes with a 3-pin connector and a PWM adapter? It looks like the XP's perform slightly better anyway. I could put the true PWM fans on the cooler and use the 3-pin fans that came with the TC14PE as the 2 intake replacements on my Define R5.

Anyone have experience using PH-F140XP's on their TC14PE?

Edit: Nevermind. 10 more minutes of searches on here revealed to me that the XP won't work because the clips are made for 120mm mount, not 140mm. :/


----------



## doyll

Indeed .. not to mention the F140HP (stock cooler fan) has almost identical performance.


----------



## TachyonicBow

Can I join the club?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TachyonicBow*
> 
> Can I join the club?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sure!

Welcome!


----------



## DontWorryScro

For those interested I just installed a Phanteks TC14PE in my Fractal Design Define R5. I also swapped out the stock Fractal Dynamic GP-14's for 3x Phanteks PH-F140SP case fans. I have them plugged into my mobo running on a custom fan curve via SpeedFan that launches on startup. This makes them behave sort of like a MacGyver'ed PWM controller. I'm pleased with it.


----------



## michaelius

Why ?

Stock fans with that Phanteks splitter can be controlled from mobo anyway ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelius*
> 
> Why ?
> 
> Stock fans with that Phanteks splitter can be controlled from mobo anyway ?


Little hard to control PH-F140SP with PWM signal. The are 3-pin variable voltage fan.


----------



## DontWorryScro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelius*
> 
> Why ?
> 
> Stock fans with that Phanteks splitter can be controlled from mobo anyway ?


Why what?

I wanted the Phanteks case fans because they move more air than the stock fans do. And both the stock fans and these F140SP's are 3-pin voltage controlled fans. They would not respond to PWM signals if I had them connected to a PWM fan header via splitter.


----------



## Himo5

No, the Phanteks splitter really does control 3-pin fans from the board's PWM signal. I've even run a Gentle Typhoon AP15 with one of them.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> No, the Phanteks splitter really does control 3-pin fans from the board's PWM signal. I've even run a Gentle Typhoon AP15 with one of them.


No, it is not possible. And you do not know what you are talking about.









Before you insert your foot even deeper into your mouth, learn what the difference between PWM and variable voltage fans is and how they are controlled.









PWM is 4 pin with 4th pin being PWM signal and 2nd pin being 12v constant power.

3 pin variable voltage varies the voltage going to 2nd pin.

Therefor if you have a 4-pin header with real PWM with 12v on pin-2 and PWM signal on pin-4 your 3-pin fan will run at full speed on the constant 12v power.


----------



## Himo5

Trust you to insult me just when my camera needs recharging. You'll just have to make do with a livecam.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Trust you to insult me just when my camera needs recharging. You'll just have to make do with a livecam.


You are wrong, but I now understand what you are doing.

The white heat shink piece is not is not a PWM fan splitter, nor is it simply a 4-pin to 3-pin adapter.

It is a PWM to variable voltage convertor that was given to users of the first PH-TC14PE so the PH-F140TC 3-pin fans could be controlled with PWM header.. After the very first release batch it was included with later TC14PE coolers supplied with F140TC fans. When they were replaced with F140HP PWM fans the PWM converter was no longer available.


----------



## Himo5

I didn't realize the adapter/converter was no longer supplied, because it does a far better job of controlling GTs - even than the PWM Mod, which can only reduce my AP29s to 1600rpm. You can see how well it governs the 1850rpm AP15. I can't understand why these things aren't more widely available, because they solve the whole rpm/pwm thing.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> I didn't realize the adapter/converter was no longer supplied, because it does a far better job of controlling GTs - even than the PWM Mod, which can only reduce my AP29s to 1600rpm. You can see how well it governs the 1850rpm AP15. I can't understand why these things aren't more widely available, because they solve the whole rpm/pwm thing.


When I was testing these PWM adapters I found they controlled fans differently .. based on power requirements of fans. Used with some fans it gave a good range of speed, while with others is was quite limited.

With more and more mobos' having more and more true PWM fan headers we could sure use an adapter that took PWM signal and did a % of PWM to a fixed voltage with no changes caused by amp / watt load.
30% = 5v
40% = 6v
50% = 7v
60% = 8v
70% = 9v
80% = 10v
90% = 11v
100% = 12v

I have a mate here in UK who has custom made and sold a bunch of PWM to variable voltage converters with speed adjustment for fine tuning their operation that work very well. Sadly he no longer has a work bench so no longer making them.


----------



## Himo5

It sure doesn't look like the most difficult circuit to etch and solder - just a matter of getting the parts right.

As for the increase in PWM headers on motherboards, here in FM2land we have the problem of 4-pin headers on anotherboards that don't PWM anything - they just VCC it - whatever that means.


----------



## DontWorryScro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> It sure doesn't look like the most difficult circuit to etch and solder - just a matter of getting the parts right.
> 
> As for the increase in PWM headers on motherboards, here in FM2land we have the problem of 4-pin headers on anotherboards that don't PWM anything - they just VCC it - whatever that means.


Yup my Gigabyte Z97X-UD5H-BK has a lot of 4-pin headers but only the CPU_Fan is true PWM. (Not even the CPU_OPT header is PWM) And yet there is one single 3-pin header on the mobo. Why even bother making 4 pin non-pwm "VCC" headers if you're going to include a 3-pin one anyway?


----------



## fjordiales

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice!. Really look like they belong.
> I have TY-147s' on mine .. with TY-147A case intake fans and no exhaust fans.
> Moving it to white Enthoo Luxe so might change fans to some Phanteks fans again.


I posted on the other forum about my build but my wife has this heatsink. Updated the lights.


----------



## doyll

Great looking system.








PH-TC14PE is one of the best coolers there is.


----------



## fjordiales

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Great looking system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PH-TC14PE is one of the best coolers there is.


It is, and the addition of ty147a improved the performance with less noise. The stock fans are already silent enough but this just improves it more.

Performance is 1-2deg lower temps but it's more quiet.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fjordiales*
> 
> It is, and the addition of ty147a improved the performance with less noise. The stock fans are already silent enough but this just improves it more.
> 
> Performance is 1-2deg lower temps but it's more quiet.


Ain't it great when a plan comes together?


----------



## miklkit

I am starting to look at this cooler and am thinking about a red one to go with the TY-143s I already have. Can anyone give some details like weight and the mounting system?


----------



## Axaion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I am starting to look at this cooler and am thinking about a red one to go with the TY-143s I already have. Can anyone give some details like weight and the mounting system?


As i have one, not red i will give you the appropiate input here.

Weight; Heavy

Mounting sytem; Yes.


----------



## doyll

You know you need it. While no light-weight, no heavier than others of similar size. The mount is superb but I suggest fitting the hold-down crossbar on before tightening the 4 corner screws .. just in case the clearance of bars onto the puts the holes slightly out of alignment with crossbar. Do a trial assembly onto CPU for good measure, and I've found a hint of lubricant on pivets and threads makes a world of difference in effort needed to screw down the spring loaded screws.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axaion*
> 
> As i have one, not red i will give you the appropiate input here.
> 
> Weight; Heavy
> 
> Mounting sytem; Yes.


ROFL!









I am curious though. I have forgotten the actual numbers but there was about 250 grams difference between the SA and the heavier HE01 even with the two extra heat pipes on the SA. It seems that the HE01 is the better cooler too.

While the SA and the HE01 have very similar mounting systems and even use some of the same parts the HE01 has the best system.

How does one tighten 4 screws with the cooler in place? Wouldn't the cooler cover those screws?

EDIT: I found out how much it weighs. Not as much as the HE01 but quite a bit more than the SA. It's AMD mounting system looks weak and flex prone. Boooo.


----------



## julizs

Hey guys,

I received my Phanteks- PH-TC14PE yesterday and I got a couple of questions:

I am kinda unsure if my unit was already used. There was no seal when I opened it, and the fans & the midplate were already installed, also no plastic wrap around the fans.

What bothers me most is that there are several scratches and marks at the base...I know this is not visible when the cooler is installed with fans, but I was kinda hoping for more quality control with a 70€ cooler. Here are some pictures, it looks a bit worse in person as I could not manage to take more sharp photos:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Also, I noticed that there is a gap under two of the heatpipes...does this affect the cooling ability?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







So yeah, I wonder if my unit was already in use or if this is just bad QC. Any kind of input is welcome.


----------



## doyll

Top side of base is probably the way it was made. It has no effect on cooling and once installed cannot be seen. I wouldn't even be looking at it and definitely not worrying about quality control.

The gap on the heatpipe into base is normal. I'm assuming it only goes in a short way. Pretty su8re the pipes are sweat soldered into base, so either a little bulges out or sinks in a little.


----------



## krabs

The hdd screw mentioned in post #2364 to lower the middle fan to 160mm height, is that really a HDD screw ?
I don't have any of the such screw in my PC. There may be 1 or 2 inside my toolbox of junk.

I'm intending to reuse my 5yr old casing on my next skylake 6600k+asrock z170pro4 build in a couple months.
All these $30-70 cooler choices are getting me going in circles around reviews.
While I don't want the cost of cooler to narrow the price gap between i5 and i7 ... the cheaper coolers leave me wary of insufficient headroom. Not cost efficient for me to buy a $39 cooler and slap on a $18 noctua fan for a small 2celcius improvement.
It's 30celcius year round here.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krabs*
> 
> The hdd screw mentioned in post #2364 to lower the middle fan to 160mm height, is that really a HDD screw ?
> I don't have any of the such screw in my PC. There may be 1 or 2 inside my toolbox of junk.
> 
> I'm intending to reuse my 5yr old casing on my next skylake 6600k+asrock z170pro4 build in a couple months.
> All these $30-70 cooler choices are getting me going in circles around reviews.
> While I don't want the cost of cooler to narrow the price gap between i5 and i7 ... the cheaper coolers leave me wary of insufficient headroom. Not cost efficient for me to buy a $39 cooler and slap on a $18 noctua fan for a small 2celcius improvement.
> It's 30celcius year round here.


You can install cooler without that screw or use the stock thumb screw while mounting, then remove it.







It only purpose is to keep the crossbar in place until the spring loaded screws start into the mount. After that it does nothing. Many coolers with similar mount design have nothing holding the crossbar on top of cooler base


----------



## krabs

Thanks doyll.

I just measured my casing with my hand holding a ruler through the front panel 5.25 bays.
172mm from side panel to motherboard
according to the chart the cpu rises 8mm above the motherboard , the TC14PE heatsink will fit

now I see on review photos the front fan will overlap the second ram slot
I've check on wikipedia that ddr4 ram pcb is 1mm taller than ddr3
with the front fan lowered it could fit with no headroom for calculator error

I guess I will go back to single tower options
Currently my favorite choice would be Arctic i30 freezer $39 + $18 noctua 140mm 1500rpm fan round frame redux
It would be $50 expenditure if I use the stock Arctic fan for casing ($7 value)
Much more pleasing to the eye than the $31 cm 212evo


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krabs*
> 
> Thanks doyll.
> 
> I just measured my casing with my hand holding a ruler through the front panel 5.25 bays.
> 172mm from side panel to motherboard
> according to the chart the cpu rises 8mm above the motherboard , the TC14PE heatsink will fit
> 
> now I see on review photos the front fan will overlap the second ram slot
> I've check on wikipedia that ddr4 ram pcb is 1mm taller than ddr3
> with the front fan lowered it could fit with no headroom for calculator error
> 
> I guess I will go back to single tower options
> Currently my favorite choice would be Arctic i30 freezer $39 + $18 noctua 140mm 1500rpm fan round frame redux
> It would be $50 expenditure if I use the stock Arctic fan for casing ($7 value)
> Much more pleasing to the eye than the $31 cm 212evo


172 - 8 = 164mm CPU clearance.
172 - 140 -3 = 29mm RAM clearance.

RAM PCB varies depending on manufacturer while RAM height is dependent on size of heat spreader. So really, the 1mm difference doesn't matter.









The difference between a top tier cooler like PH-TC14PE and the options you listed above is like comparing a Bentley to a Hugo .. maybe even worse.









I f you start a thread with info about what case, mobo, RAM, etc you are planing to use and we can figure out what coolers will fit.


----------



## iamwardicus

Just a quick question for the owners here. I'm planning on going back to air cooling from my water cooling setup (I'm tired of the maintenance and it's totally overkill for just cpu cooling) and I'm looking at the Phanteks TC14PE.

I'm wondering if it's compatible with the Asus Rampage IV Gene and not blocking the 1st PCI-E slot. Since I'm using SLI at the moment blocking that slot isn't an option.

I considered the D15s but it seems to only support a 120mm fan + 140mm fan. I would like to use 2x 140mm fans (Looking at the Noctua 140mm 2000rpm or 3000rpm iPPC ones).

Thanks for any info!


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamwardicus*
> 
> Just a quick question for the owners here. I'm planning on going back to air cooling from my water cooling setup (I'm tired of the maintenance and it's totally overkill for just cpu cooling) and I'm looking at the Phanteks TC14PE.
> 
> I'm wondering if it's compatible with the Asus Rampage IV Gene and not blocking the 1st PCI-E slot. Since I'm using SLI at the moment blocking that slot isn't an option.
> 
> I considered the D15s but it seems to only support a 120mm fan + 140mm fan. I would like to use 2x 140mm fans (Looking at the Noctua 140mm 2000rpm or 3000rpm iPPC ones).
> 
> Thanks for any info!


Beware of Noctua PPC 3000rpm fans.

Noctua issue a warning about using them with 'Common PC fan controllers' and resistor cables or potentiometers that use variable resitance to control fan speed instead of varying the voltage.

They say that it's alright to run them from motherboard PWM and RPM headers. But here's a thing:

I use a simple soldered stripboard chain to run 3 or 4 fans off the CPU header, powered direct from the PSU, with one of them supplying the reference RPM reading back to the motherboard and passing on the PWM signal to the rest of the chain.

I have run all kinds and numbers of PWM fans off this chain, including 2-3amp Nidec and San Ace monsters, without any problems, but Noctua PPC 3000rpm fans don't work, either as the reference fan or as one of the slave fans. Even when I take all the other fans off the chain and leave just the PPC fan in the reference position it still doesn't work. Presumably if it was the only fan on the CPU header a PPC fan would work, but I don't think that is what you have in mind.

What you probably really need - and what we are all waiting for - is for the EK-Vardar 140mm 2500rpm fan to become available (one more week on pre-order and I'll....), in the meantime it would be better to make do with Phanteks' meagre offering - at least it fits!


----------



## iamwardicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Beware of Noctua PPC 3000rpm fans.
> 
> Noctua issue a warning about using them with 'Common PC fan controllers' and resistor cables or potentiometers that use variable resitance to control fan speed instead of varying the voltage.
> 
> They say that it's alright to run them from motherboard PWM and RPM headers. But here's a thing:
> 
> I use a simple soldered stripboard chain to run 3 or 4 fans off the CPU header, powered direct from the PSU, with one of them supplying the reference RPM reading back to the motherboard and passing on the PWM signal to the rest of the chain.
> 
> I have run all kinds and numbers of PWM fans off this chain, including 2-3amp Nidec and San Ace monsters, without any problems, but Noctua PPC 3000rpm fans don't work, either as the reference fan or as one of the slave fans. Even when I take all the other fans off the chain and leave just the PPC fan in the reference position it still doesn't work. Presumably if it was the only fan on the CPU header a PPC fan would work, but I don't think that is what you have in mind.
> 
> What you probably really need - and what we are all waiting for - is for the EK-Vardar 140mm 2500rpm fan to become available (one more week on pre-order and I'll....), in the meantime it would be better to make do with Phanteks' meagre offering - at least it fits!


I will likely be running them full speed all the time regardless of the fans I'm using. I'm more concerned with the clearance of the heatsink itself with the 1st PCI-E slot of my Motherboard.


----------



## michaelius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 172 - 8 = 164mm CPU clearance.
> 172 - 140 -3 = 29mm RAM clearance.
> 
> RAM PCB varies depending on manufacturer while RAM height is dependent on size of heat spreader. So really, the 1mm difference doesn't matter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The difference between a top tier cooler like PH-TC14PE and the options you listed above is like comparing a Bentley to a Hugo .. maybe even worse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I f you start a thread with info about what case, mobo, RAM, etc you are planing to use and we can figure out what coolers will fit.


Also there's simple trick to use high ram - put 120mm fan in front position of TC14PE and stock 2x140 in middle and rear.I used that in my Raven 2 to fit Trident X memory.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Beware of Noctua PPC 3000rpm fans.
> 
> Noctua issue a warning about using them with 'Common PC fan controllers' and resistor cables or potentiometers that use variable resitance to control fan speed instead of varying the voltage.
> 
> They say that it's alright to run them from motherboard PWM and RPM headers. But here's a thing:
> 
> I use a simple soldered stripboard chain to run 3 or 4 fans off the CPU header, powered direct from the PSU, with one of them supplying the reference RPM reading back to the motherboard and passing on the PWM signal to the rest of the chain.
> 
> I have run all kinds and numbers of PWM fans off this chain, including 2-3amp Nidec and San Ace monsters, without any problems, but Noctua PPC 3000rpm fans don't work, either as the reference fan or as one of the slave fans. Even when I take all the other fans off the chain and leave just the PPC fan in the reference position it still doesn't work. Presumably if it was the only fan on the CPU header a PPC fan would work, but I don't think that is what you have in mind.
> 
> What you probably really need - and what we are all waiting for - is for the EK-Vardar 140mm 2500rpm fan to become available (one more week on pre-order and I'll....), in the meantime it would be better to make do with Phanteks' meagre offering - at least it fits!


The Thermalright TY-143 fits on the TC14PE quite easily and is 2500rpm 130cfm but as quiet as NF-A15 at same rpm. Makes a great combination.

I use Gelid PWM splitter with PSU power so no worries about overloading the mobo fan header. Only problem is the Phanteks clip pins are almost impossible to fit, but it can be done .. or make some with zip ties. like this

http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/20_20#post_23389821


TY-143 fans on red PH-TC14PE
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/20_20#post_23389821


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelius*
> 
> Also there's simple trick to use high ram - put 120mm fan in front position of TC14PE and stock 2x140 in middle and rear.I used that in my Raven 2 to fit Trident X memory.


True, as long as the cooler fins are not a problem.
Running fans in pull/pull instead of push/push works just fine. There is no need for a 120mm fan on front as well.


----------



## Himo5

That zip tie trick is great for a lot of fans, but when you get to fans with tunnelled screwholes, like San Ace, Bitfenix, Zaward and Yate Loon you need to get a little more creative.


----------



## krabs

I think I am decided on this cooler for my 6600k build in about 3 months.







Thanks Doyll.
Will remove my rarely used dvd drive and use the four empty 5.25" bays as intake for the 14cm fan that cannot be fitted onto front of the cooler due to ram height.
I currently using 3 of the 5.25" bays as 120mm fan intake. Doesn't take anything complex just slide in foam on the top and bottom to hold the fan from falling.


----------



## miklkit

I was looking at this cooler and they list it as 160mm tall without fans and 171mm tall with fans, while Doyll's list has it at 171mm without fans. Which is correct?

A 171mm cooler will not fit in my case.


----------



## Himo5

165mm from the surface of an FM2+ motherboard. I have a 190mm wide case (NZXT Lexa S) and there's between 2-3mm to spare.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I was looking at this cooler and they list it as 160mm tall without fans and 171mm tall with fans, while Doyll's list has it at 171mm without fans. Which is correct?
> 
> A 171mm cooler will not fit in my case.


Here is a detailed drawing of PH-TC14PE


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> 165mm from the surface of an FM2+ motherboard. I have a 190mm wide case (NZXT Lexa S) and there's between 2-3mm to spare.


Is that to the top of fin at edge of cooler or top of raised area with lettering on top? Reason I ask is my measurements are 168mm from surface of motherboard to to top of cooler.


----------



## Himo5

Oops! I forgot about the detached covering plates. With them on the HSF is flush with the side panel - that's the 2-3mm I mentioned (and so, your 168mm).

Unfortunately, the cover plates aren't in contact with the heat pipes - only through their lugged contact with the top fin - otherwise you could turn the whole Lexa S into part of the HSF!


----------



## miklkit

Ok, so it looks like it will fit, barely. There might be a touch of negative clearance at the top of the side panel.

@Doyll It looks like you might want to update your Cooler Size Comparison to show this.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Ok, so it looks like it will fit, barely. There might be a touch of negative clearance at the top of the side panel.
> 
> @Doyll It looks like you might want to update your Cooler Size Comparison to show this.


Thanks! It's done.


----------



## PriestOfSin

How's this cooler fit with itx boards? I'm thinking of trading my h100i GTX in for this guy. I've already got low-profile ram, so that's not an issue, and the EVGA board I'm using doesn't have a large power delivery board on the back end. I'm concerned that it won't be able to mount it the "standard" way and still use a GPU.


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PriestOfSin*
> 
> How's this cooler fit with itx boards? I'm thinking of trading my h100i GTX in for this guy. I've already got low-profile ram, so that's not an issue, and the EVGA board I'm using doesn't have a large power delivery board on the back end. I'm concerned that it won't be able to mount it the "standard" way and still use a GPU.


Works perfectly with my Asus Maximus Impact VI.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PriestOfSin*
> 
> How's this cooler fit with itx boards? I'm thinking of trading my h100i GTX in for this guy. I've already got low-profile ram, so that's not an issue, and the EVGA board I'm using doesn't have a large power delivery board on the back end. I'm concerned that it won't be able to mount it the "stadard" way and still use a GPU.


Depends on what ITX board you have. The PCIe slot placement is standardized. The CPU and RAM sockets are not. This means the distance from center CPU toward PCIe and RAM sockets can be from about 50mm to78mm.

Performance wise PH-TC14PE is as good as H100, much quieter, and has no pump that will fail at some point.


----------



## sweenytodd

Ditto here. If you have something like the MSI Gaming Z97i then it's not gonna work.


----------



## SpiduhBMX

Anyone know if i could fit the Phanteks Ph-Tc14pe with 3 fans on a Msi Z97 Gaming 5 with Kingston HyperX fury ram in a Phanteks Enthoo Pro case? Thanks /o/


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpiduhBMX*
> 
> Anyone know if i could fit the Phanteks Ph-Tc14pe with 3 fans on a Msi Z97 Gaming 5 with Kingston HyperX fury ram in a Phanteks Enthoo Pro case? Thanks /o/


I don't know how tall the mobo component heatsinks above and behind CPU are, but as long as they are less than 45mm above surface of mobo you should be golden. The Hyper X Fury is definitely not a problem.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Not a TC14 but thought id share its smaller sibling
http://s700.photobucket.com/user/orbitalwalsh/media/IMG_20151007_213839_1.jpg.html

First time Air cooling for me, and its a build for a family member to boot.
Was glad to find that i can raise the fan up to get another pair of HyperX Beast in the white slots but now has my mind nagging that 'could i of pulled it off with a TC14?'. Then again only cooling a i5 4690k so should be good


----------



## TachyonicBow

Awesome picture of the cooler, it's a stonking performer for the money and the size, and definitely the best looking air cooler, especially when oriented with the logo right way up, which you cant do with a TC14...


----------



## doyll

Gotta love the black/white on black/white MSI mobos.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

I wanted the fans rotated another 90 so cables were at the bottom , then i realised you couldnt see the logo =/

Should have it built tonight, although no hard drive to bench but should be able to overclock through simple bios as its not my pc so not pushing hard.
will be interesting to hear it next to mine system

will stick up pics of build and oc when i can









just gutted they dont do HyperX Beast in white or other colours


----------



## TachyonicBow

Why didnt you rotate them 180 degrees? two sides of the fans have the logos on, scroll up to my pictures of the same cooler.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Some help nedded.
Tc12dx installed. i5 4690k @ 4.0 vcore 1.218 ( used on board oc) , temps running at 37c , turbo and eco settings have been auto disabled. Is that the correct temp for this air cooler ?

Use to water so not 100% with air temps


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Some help nedded.
> Tc12dx installed. i5 4690k @ 4.0 vcore 1.218 ( used on board oc) , temps running at 37c , turbo and eco settings have been auto disabled. Is that the correct temp for this air cooler ?
> 
> Use to water so not 100% with air temps


37c at what CPU load? I'm guessing that is at idle. We need to know the temp at 100% load.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Idle ,was 35c at stock . unfortunately dont have their hard drive to run a bench to fully load it . was concerned if id mounted it right.
Will see if i can hook up a spare HDD just to run intels burn test


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Idle ,was 35c at stock . unfortunately dont have their hard drive to run a bench to fully load it . was concerned if id mounted it right.
> Will see if i can hook up a spare HDD just to run intels burn test


Seems a check check with reviews it should be idle around 30c with i5 4690k .


----------



## doyll

Problem is it may idle at a nice temp while load temps may be way too high

Like a car that is fine setting in driveway but overheats when towing a boat or camper.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Problem is it may idle at a nice temp while load temps may be way too high
> 
> Like a car that is fine setting in driveway but overheats when towing a boat or camper.


See what you mean , so use to my custom loop in knowing what ever the idle temp im at i can add ten or so for load.


----------



## TachyonicBow

What sorta airflow have you got going on in that case? Also, make sure you havent over-applied thermal compound.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TachyonicBow*
> 
> What sorta airflow have you got going on in that case? Also, make sure you havent over-applied thermal compound.


2x NZXT 140mm Air Flow fans at the front at full rpm, quite but high flow . and the standard 2x 120mm fans shipped with the case as exhausts

Think i might have to try a quick tigthen , then will wipe clean any excess paste on the heatsink. Def believe 37c is a little on the high side


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> 2x NZXT 140mm Air Flow fans at the front at full rpm, quite but high flow . and the standard 2x 120mm fans shipped with the case as exhausts
> 
> Think i might have to try a quick tigthen , then will wipe clean any excess paste on the heatsink. Def believe 37c is a little on the high side


Ideally there should be excess TIM after mounting cooler. a dab the size of a cooked grain of white rice is all that is needed. This should spread to a round print just reaching the sides.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22335323


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> See what you mean , so use to my custom loop in knowing what ever the idle temp im at i can add ten or so for load.


Tightened mounting


Might tighten the bracket mount a turn next


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Tightened mounting
> 
> 
> Might tighten the bracket mount a turn next


If you installed it properly it cannot be tightened any more. All mount screws should be snugged up and the spring loaded crossbar should be tighted until screws stop turning. as well.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If you installed it properly it cannot be tightened any more. All mount screws should be snugged up and the spring loaded crossbar should be tighted until screws stop turning. as well.


Temps drops down to 30c idle , 4ghz @ 1.216v . brace mounts can still be turned with force so have left it be . heatsink mount is on tight


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Build for a nephew , got to admit... Liking cooling by air









Heres the smaller sibling in a finished build


----------



## doyll

Looks really nice.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks really nice.


Thanks, loving the cooler. Unfortunately I havent got their hard drive to stress test it but sure its all good









Cheap £550 build lots miles better then mine own expensive build


----------



## mk16

well i just got my ph-tc14pe-bk but i couldnt put it in nightmare because low and behold


one of the screws is striped really bad. already contacted phanteks just waiting on a response.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mk16*
> 
> well i just got my ph-tc14pe-bk but i couldnt put it in nightmare because low and behold
> 
> 
> one of the screws is striped really bad. already contacted phanteks just waiting on a response.


Bummer.

Looks like a threading machine issue. Let me know if you haven't heard anything from Phanteks in the next couple of days.


----------



## mk16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Bummer.
> 
> Looks like a threading machine issue. Let me know if you haven't heard anything from Phanteks in the next couple of days.












thanks


----------



## mk16

well phanteks got back to me today, asked for my invoice and address. gave them the invoice, the exact screw i need, and two address in case they cant ship it to the base.

so i should be able to join soon.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mk16*
> 
> well phanteks got back to me today, asked for my invoice and address. gave them the invoice, the exact screw i need, and two address in case they cant ship it to the base.
> 
> so i should be able to join soon.


Good news!
Phanteks has great customer support.


----------



## b0z0

I'm about to purchase Phanteks PH-TC14PE red for a 5820k build. I'm curious how well this thing cools with a mild OC?


----------



## mk16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0z0*
> 
> I'm about to purchase Phanteks PH-TC14PE red for a 5820k build. I'm curious how well this thing cools with a mild OC?


cant speak on performance but i know that some 2011v3 mobos dont have mounting holes that go all the way through the mobo so pick carefully.


----------



## b0z0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mk16*
> 
> cant speak on performance but i know that some 2011v3 mobos dont have mounting holes that go all the way through the mobo so pick carefully.


I was going to go with the Asrock x99m killer.


----------



## mk16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0z0*
> 
> I was going to go with the Asrock x99m killer.


nope holes dont go all the way through. you could drill it out, i know linus tried. but like linus you could kill your board.


----------



## b0z0

Thanks. +rep for the help


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0z0*
> 
> I'm about to purchase Phanteks PH-TC14PE red for a 5820k build. I'm curious how well this thing cools with a mild OC?


PH-TC14PE is one of the best of the best. You will be fine.

Somebody said something about LGA2011 not having through holes for back platet.








LGA2011 has back place built into motherboard and cooler comes with LGA2011 barrel studs.

Just be sure the motherboard meets LGA2011 mounting standards. Most do.

It's easier to mount PH-TC14PE on LGA2011 than others. Instead of installing back plate and screwing barrel nuts from front of mobo onto it, just screw the 2011 barrel studs into their holes.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mk16*
> 
> nope holes dont go all the way through. you could drill it out, i know linus tried. but like linus you could kill your board.


I only saw Linus once. He spends so much time jerking, twitching and throwing his hands around I figured he must be having some kind of a seizure.
Most idiots talk like that.

I'm definitely not paying any attention to anyone who takes a drill to their motherboard.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I only saw Linus once. He spends so much time jerking, twitching and throwing his hands around I figured he must be having some kind of a seizure.
> Most idiots talk like that.
> 
> I'm definitely not paying any attention to anyone who takes a drill to their motherboard.


Yup.....I feel like I am watching an episode of "Pee Wee's Playhouse" any time I try (unsuccessfully) to get through one of his videos. But, I would certainly put more stock in any computer info coming from Pee Wee than Linus. Every time I watch one of his videos, I actually feel like I know less about the product than I did prior to watching.


----------



## mk16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> PH-TC14PE is one of the best of the best. You will be fine.
> 
> Somebody said something about LGA2011 not having through holes for back platet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LGA2011 has back place built into motherboard and cooler comes with LGA2011 barrel studs.
> 
> Just be sure the motherboard meets LGA2011 mounting standards. Most do.
> 
> It's easier to mount PH-TC14PE on LGA2011 than others. Instead of installing back plate and screwing barrel nuts from front of mobo onto it, just screw the 2011 barrel studs into their holes.


2011 has holes all the way through yes

BUT

not *2011V3*

look at the backside of this asrock mobo.

no holes on the other side


----------



## mk16

sorry i was wrong

it wasnt linus it was jayztwocents


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mk16*
> 
> 2011 has holes all the way through yes
> 
> BUT
> 
> not *2011V3*
> 
> look at the backside of this asrock mobo.
> 
> no holes on the other side


It makes no difference if holes go all the way through or not The holes are threaded and 2011 barrel studs go into them. . All that needs to happen is for 2011 barrel studs to thread into them so bottom of barrel is tight against the motherboard.

There were a few motherboards that the holes were not deep enough for some of the 2011 barrel studs to fit into. The barrel stud threaded ends going into the hole were too long and bottomed out before the screwed in all the way. Those studs were replaced or installer could file off a millimeter of the length to solve the problem. .

As I said, as long as LGA2011 standards are followed there is no problem. A few did not make sure they met the standards.

Edit: I don't know if it was an error on the part of motherboard or mount. Bottom line is some didn't work like they were supposed to .. in the initial release of LGA 2011 V3. I haven't heard of any problems in a long time now.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mk16*
> 
> sorry i was wrong
> 
> it wasnt linus it was jayztwocents


So, just to be clear....you are posting in a _Phanteks_ thread with warnings about the mounting because Jay didn't read the install instructions on an _EK Supremacy MX_ and wound up drilling holes in a MB when he had no need to? Does that about sum up what is going on here? Well, that's one way to waste a full page in a thread.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> So, just to be clear....you are posting in a _Phanteks_ thread with warnings about the mounting because Jay didn't read the install instructions on an _EK Supremacy MX_ and wound up drilling holes in a MB when he had no need to? Does that about sum up what is going on here? Well, that's one way to waste a full page in a thread.


Now, now.







Not everyone is as smart as everyone else. Some. fall for media hype .. and some like to grasp as straws.


----------



## aerial

Small Phanteks in my build:
more pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/104030131291922028430/SilverstoneKL06Black#


----------



## doyll

aerial
If you look anything like your builds, I'm head of heels in love.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Build for a nephew , got to admit... Liking cooling by air
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heres the smaller sibling in a finished build


After falling in love with air cooling with the Phanteks on my last build, I'd thought i'd try a matching build with more power. More power equals more cooling power so went with a TC14S this time around , were as a 12DX was used before hand. Though about using a full blown TC14PE but would cover the lovely Geil Dragon RAM and not to sure if it would fit.

BTW, it only just worked out. fans had to be moved back due to ram, couldnt move it higher as it hit the panel window.







still a build in progess


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> After falling in love with air cooling with the Phanteks on my last build, I'd thought i'd try a matching build with more power. More power equals more cooling power so went with a TC14S this time around , were as a 12DX was used before hand. Though about using a full blown TC14PE but would cover the lovely Geil Dragon RAM and not to sure if it would fit.
> 
> BTW, it only just worked out. fans had to be moved back due to ram, couldnt move it higher as it hit the panel window.
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2687242/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> still a build in progess


Very nice!


----------



## bote110

In a need for a new cpu cooler replacement

FX 8370 cpu
G.Skill Sniper 1866 CL9 16GB DDR3 ram
Cool Master 212 EVO cpu cooler
Sadartooth R2.0 motherboard
EVGA Super Nova 850w Gold PSU
MSI R9 280x PSU
1 SATA DVD Drive
SATA III 6GB 1T drive
SATA 500GB drive both drives on port 1-2 set on AHCI
on in a Phanteks Enthoo Series case!

I'm looking for a new cooler an found this forum, What would be a good cooler
type to get for my FX 8370 with a mild oc tweak that I can get by.


----------



## miklkit

What is your definition of mild? 5ghz is possible with most people topping out around 4.8 ghz. For modern multithread games that is plenty and is pretty easy to get.

Not that it matters but any of the better twin towers will do the job, but the best ones for your situation are the ones that let you adjust the fan height above the motherboard. Those are the Phantek, Noctua D14 & D15, and Silverstone HE01. The Cryorig, Silver Arrow, and DRP ones have fixed fans that might not get enough cool air to the motherboard VRMs.

A combination that I would like to try on my 8370 is a red Phanteks twin tower with red Thermalright TY 143 fans. But overall case air flow is more important than which twin tower cooler you get..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bote110*
> 
> In a need for a new cpu cooler replacement
> 
> FX 8370 cpu
> G.Skill Sniper 1866 CL9 16GB DDR3 ram
> Cool Master 212 EVO cpu cooler
> Sadartooth R2.0 motherboard
> EVGA Super Nova 850w Gold PSU
> MSI R9 280x PSU
> 1 SATA DVD Drive
> SATA III 6GB 1T drive
> SATA 500GB drive both drives on port 1-2 set on AHCI
> on in a Phanteks Enthoo Series case!
> 
> I'm looking for a new cooler an found this forum, What would be a good cooler
> type to get for my FX 8370 with a mild oc tweak that I can get by.


What Miklkit said.








But rather than hijack he PH-TC14PE thread,could you start a new thread with your question? Then we can go into more detail about it.


----------



## miklkit

Trudat. No hijacking. Get a Phantek and be happy.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Trudat. No hijacking. Get a Phantek and be happy.


Or as miklkit said, just get the 14PE.


----------



## wermad

Hey guys, I'm back. i bought blue cooler in late 14' and sold it after I made the switch back to water. Bought a black one recently to go into my Amd build in the second chamber of my Caselabs TX10-D. Though I was hoping to get a red one, I couldn't find one at a decent price (~$65). I'm a little hesistent in adding a 3rd fan since the specs are a bit different. I'm also putting off installing the new cooler with the slim hope newegg or someone on ebay will list a red one. I had a wanted ad in the market, but it went un-responded for a few weeks and I promptly gave in and bought the black one.

Not sure what to do. I don't want to use the Black one if I can get a red one. Why a red one? I have enough white and black in my case that a bit more red will make things more interesting imho.


----------



## Himo5

Two US sites showing stock for me: Amazon and Newegg.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm back. i bought blue cooler in late 14' and sold it after I made the switch back to water. Bought a black one recently to go into my Amd build in the second chamber of my Caselabs TX10-D. Though I was hoping to get a red one, I couldn't find one at a decent price (~$65). I'm a little hesistent in adding a 3rd fan since the specs are a bit different. I'm also putting off installing the new cooler with the slim hope newegg or someone on ebay will list a red one. I had a wanted ad in the market, but it went un-responded for a few weeks and I promptly gave in and bought the black one.
> 
> Not sure what to do. I don't want to use the Black one if I can get a red one. Why a red one? I have enough white and black in my case that a bit more red will make things more interesting imho.


Have you tried buying from Phanteks USA online site?

They list the PH-TC14PE for $79.99, but I don't see a way to choose color.
http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-ph-tc14pe_wt

I would email their customer support asking about it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have you tried buying from Phanteks USA online site?
> 
> They list the PH-TC14PE for $79.99, but I don't see a way to choose color.
> http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-ph-tc14pe_wt
> 
> I would email their customer support asking about it.


Just choose the red one from the product listing - http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-ph-tc14pe_rd

It's currently on sale for $69.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Just choose the red one from the product listing - http://www.phanteksusa.com/products/phanteks-ph-tc14pe_rd
> 
> It's currently on sale for $69.


Darn Gremlins!







I tried reloading the page, opening a new window to shop, everything and couldn't get what you just posted.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Darn Gremlins!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried reloading the page, opening a new window to shop, everything and couldn't get what you just posted.


----------



## doyll

I got a glimpse of this one not a very good pic, but best I could get.


----------



## miklkit

You can buy direct from Phantek? They have the red one listed at $70 while Newegg lists it at $100!









They have the blue one listed at $80 too.

EDIT: That link worked perfectly for me and in fact I just bought a red one.







But the wife will most likely beat me about the head and shoulders severely for blowing the budget.


----------



## wermad

Thanks guys







(+1s). I'm gonna seriously have to think this one. With shipping and cali tax, I'm at $83 from Phanteks. Newegg in January had it for $74.99 - 10 mir with free "super saver" shipping. I'm kicking myself for not buying it back then. I'll see what happens but thanks again for the link. Didn't know i could buy from Phanteks but its not surprising they're Cali (and cali tax







).

edit: looks I'm just going to keep it. Can anyone tell me where to get a 3rd fan? The retail ones I've found say it spins faster then the stock fans???


----------



## Wasawsky

I've also asked this question in my other thread (I didn't know about this one), but as it seems that this is the place to discuss PH-TC14PE, I'll ask here too.

Basically, I've switched from a H110i to a Phanteks, and I'd like to change the fans to something all-black (at the moment I have the White casing / Black blades ones).

I am thinking about either the Phanteks PH-F140SP_BBK or the beQuiet! Silent Wings 2.

I'm leaning towards the PH-F140SP because they're also Phanteks, so the specs should have the same level of 'accuracy'. I know that they're not PWM, but I wouldn't mind running them at max speed all the time. That being said, comparing the PH-F140SP to the PH-F140HP (that I suspect the cooler comes with) it seems that they output 6.5 CFM less (82.1 CFM vs 88.6 CFM) and also have lower static pressure (1.33 mm H2O vs 1.64 mm H2O).

Would this make a significant difference in the cooler's performance?

What about running a third fan? Does that help at all?

Any thoughts?


----------



## wermad

Ordered the 3rd fan from amazon along with a much due data-vac. Even though it has the same sku as newegg, this one maxes at 1300, where as newegg at 1600 (







). Anyways, my ppcs.com package arrived and I need to mount the Swiftech pwm hub. I wasn't expecting the wires to be a tad too short if I'm honest.



As you can see, i removed the af120 qe from the rear of the mb tray. I'm hoping my CHIVF doesn't get hotter.

If anyone sees the red one for ~$65 lmk please. I'm still open to get one







(new or used).


----------



## miklkit

I've never run three fans but have gone from one to two. What I noticed then was that it ran quieter in everyday use and got slightly better temperatures when running flat out.

About motherboard temps: Consider removing the case fan grill completely and using the cooler fans as case exhaust fans. It will run cooler and quieter. Then remove the I/O panel and set the center fan down as close to the motherboard as it will go. The I/O panel creates a dead zone for air flow which causes the motherboard VRMs to overheat. Lowering the center fan blows air over the VRMs and out the case where the I/O panel used to be.


----------



## wermad

The CHIVF is known for bad northbridge temps. So far I got them in check w/ new pads and removing the asus crude. I remember when i got my first CHIVF in 09', it was bad. I think this one is a revised one that's a bit better. Anyways, since the front radiator in that chamber doesn't turn on with this system, I only have the cpu cooler and the exhaust fan to generate air flow. But now the exhaust fan is gone to make way for the 3rd phanteks fans. I'll keep an eye on it and if needed, a fan w/ adapter (like the zalman) will work.


----------



## miklkit

It came in tonight. It will be a bit before it gets installed as I want to lap a cpu first.


----------



## miklkit

I got impatient so just installed the thing. It did not go all that well either.

It seems the mounting system is designed to flex and it ended up being not very tight. I can twist the cooler around even when the mounting nuts and bolts are bottomed out. We will see later how this works out temperature wise.

Next up came the fans and again I'm too impatient to install the stockers first so in went the TY-143s. Previous experience says the higher the rpms, the lower the temperatures. Phantek has an odd mounting system where you hold the wire clip over the hole in the fan frame and then pop this little black plastic retainer in to hold it in place. So of course the holes in the TY143s are just a little bit too big and those retainers kept falling out.







Hi yo Silverstone! It turns out the Silverstone retainers for the HE01 fit perfectly









So now I've got a Phanteks cooler with Thermalright fans held in place with Silverstone retainers. It's the Frankenrig!









How is it working? With the fans idling at 700 rpm all I hear is a faint hum and air whooshing from the case fans. Temps are fine so far, but time will tell. No pics as the phone doesn't want to play nice with the puter today.


----------



## wermad

There's always a bit of play and the thermal paste sort of makes the heatsink play. Its normal, especially with some sockets like amd. Intel is a bit more tight, espeically lga2011/v3. It should be fine, mine actually has the play and it comes in handy as the amd socket isn't symetrical, so there's always a need to shift it slight to the sides. Check your temps and if they're bad, remount again. I'm using some mx3 but I plan to get some gelid extreme soon.

I'm waiting for the 3rd fan to come in and then i can fire her up.

I've had a 212 for a bit on this system and this one has been my backup cooler for a while now. I have owned a blue one and owned a Thermalright Silver Arrow as well in the past and these kits are very good. One last thing i noticed between these coolers and water blocks, there's a tendency to tight the crap out of blocks but it may lead to breaking something. I usually just turn it by hand until I feel a bit resistance. With air coolers, usually the mounting mechanism is designed for limited tightening which is enough for these guys to cool and hang on.


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I got impatient so just installed the thing. It did not go all that well either.
> 
> It seems the mounting system is designed to flex and it ended up being not very tight. I can twist the cooler around even when the mounting nuts and bolts are bottomed out. We will see later how this works out temperature wise.
> 
> Next up came the fans and again I'm too impatient to install the stockers first so in went the TY-143s. Previous experience says the higher the rpms, the lower the temperatures. Phantek has an odd mounting system where you hold the wire clip over the hole in the fan frame and then pop this little black plastic retainer in to hold it in place. So of course the holes in the TY143s are just a little bit too big and those retainers kept falling out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi yo Silverstone! It turns out the Silverstone retainers for the HE01 fit perfectly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I've got a Phanteks cooler with Thermalright fans held in place with Silverstone retainers. It's the Frankenrig!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How is it working? With the fans idling at 700 rpm all I hear is a faint hum and air whooshing from the case fans. Temps are fine so far, but time will tell. No pics as the phone doesn't want to play nice with the puter today.


For the benefit of those without Silverstone retainers, earlier in the thread somewhere Doyll introduced a way of using plastic pull ties for TY143 fans instead. You tighten one up until it is nearly fully closed and then squash the remaining loop and push it through the screw hole on the fan in the same way as you would use a Phanteks retainer. Works very well.


----------



## miklkit

When starting the bolts on the cross bar the first one went normally and so did the 2nd one. By this I mean I had to push very hard on the screwdriver to get it to catch and start threading. The other coolers I have used are like this too. The difference is that once they were started they screwed down quite easily until they bottomed, and then the cooler was easy to move around. The bolts on the others are much harder to screw down. The Silver Arrow I have can be twisted after it is mounted but good effort is needed, and the HE01 really doesn't want to move. If I get it crooked it is easier to loosen the bolts and realign it than it is to try to twist it.

I am thinking it is the soft plastic spacers used combined with the metal brackets not being tied together into a solid square. The Silver Arrow uses large metal spacers and the HE01 uses hard plastic spacers combined with a strong metal square. I gotta see if thos metal spacers are the same height as those soft plastic ones.

Zip ties for the win! I was fortunate to have other retainers that work.


----------



## doyll

How to make fan clip pins
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/20_20#post_23389821


----------



## miklkit

Just want to say this thing is eerily quiet now. The FHP-141 fans on the HE01 doesn't get along with the ASUS Sabertooth bios that well and wouldn't idle down below 1100 rpm, so it always made some noise. With the MSI GD80 it would idle down to 700-800 rpm and would be silent.

These TY-143s are idling at 700 rpm and now I can't tell which is quieter. The puter or the HEPA filter. They both might be louder than the clock on the wall going tick tock but quieter than the birds chirping outside with windows shut.

While gaming all I hear is the fans on the 290X because it is running at 100% loads at somewhere around 72C. The CPU averages 37-38C. So far when stress testing temps are too high at 66C but I hope they will come down in a week or so. I used the TIM that came with the cooler. Ambients are 71-73F = 22-23C.


----------



## wermad

Still waiting for amazon to ship the 3rd fan (and datavac). If any one is interested, the ebay seller that sold me my _blk for $62 has the black and silver back in stock. Ocn frowns upon linking, so just do a quick search. Mine arrived perfectly and sealed.


----------



## krabs

Really disappointed with this cooler.
The protection peel did not separate cleanly on my kit.

I have some experience from consumer telescopes and know that fingerprints are just as gentle as microfiber cloth on delicate surface.
Took some time to scratch the adhesive off with tap water , dishwashing detergent , fingernails , fingerprints.
It's my first time using an enthusiast cooler and I couldn't mount the 2 screws on due to the slight crossbow bend. Eventually took it off to see what the heck is going on , repaste and remounted finally.

1 hour ordeal.
The saga didn't end there , I couldn't reinstall windows because the motherboard is ignoring the boot selection.


----------



## wermad

Use 90 alcohol to clean your surfaces


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krabs*
> 
> Really disappointed with this cooler.
> The protection peel did not separate cleanly on my kit.
> 
> I have some experience from consumer telescopes and know that fingerprints are just as gentle as microfiber cloth on delicate surface.
> Took some time to scratch the adhesive off with tap water , dishwashing detergent , fingernails , fingerprints.
> It's my first time using an enthusiast cooler and I couldn't mount the 2 screws on due to the slight crossbow bend. Eventually took it off to see what the heck is going on , repaste and remounted finally.
> 
> 1 hour ordeal.
> The saga didn't end there , I couldn't reinstall windows because the motherboard is ignoring the boot selection.


Your 'ordeal' sounds more like lack of experience and not knowing what or how to do it. Alcohol (as mentioned above) is well known as the best and cheapest cleaner. I use Isopropyl Alcohol. A 250ml bottle is about a fiver .. very expensive compared to 5 liters for £14.99.







It's great for all kinds of things, but not for drinking. And a trial / practice mount without TIM is normally done to be sure everything is as planned. Another common practice is to assemble mount with top bars loose, attach crossbar (loose) then tighten the 4 corner screws. This insures the crossbar screws are aligned properly .. something that is often a problem when mounting / assembling something with more than 2 screws is if any are tightened before all are started, all may not start.







Spring mounted crossbar designs are often very hard to get screws to start the first assembly. The spring tension is much greater brefore they are compressed the first time. Another 'trick' is to put just a hint of lubricant on the threads and around where the spring turns on washer or mounting plate to relieve friction. But be very careful to not to use much. I use a oil pin pen needle lubricator like used for watch repair.

I assume not booting was because mount backplate was touching case?


----------



## sol1tary

Hi all!
With this cooler usually CPU doesn't exceed 70 C in games, but in stress testing by Prime95 CPU temp comes to 80-84 C, is it normal?
CPU i7 6700k 4.6 Ghz 1.350-1.370 V, Thermal Paste Arctic Cooling MX-4.
Two front fans, one rear fan, one bottom fan intake.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sol1tary*
> 
> Hi all!
> With this cooler usually CPU doesn't exceed 70 C in games, but in stress testing by Prime95 CPU temp comes to 80-84 C, is it normal?
> CPU i7 6700k 4.6 Ghz 1.350-1.370 V, Thermal Paste Arctic Cooling MX-4.
> Two front fans, one rear fan, one bottom fan intake.


'Normal' is .. well .. what is 'normal'? What is the 'normal' air temp going into cooler compared to the 'normal' room air temperature? What were your 'normal' cpu temps before changing coolers, and what was your original cooler?

Sorry for being so 'normal'.









About all I can really offer is to say we need a lot more 'technical' information about what is going on. My 6700 runs quite warm. Stock it idles around 30c & load is 80c (1.313-1.385v) under cooler that kept my i7 980 @ 4.2GHz at 25-27c idle and 65c @100% load. Both had 22-24c cooler intake air with room 21-22c.

Your fan setup sounds about right, but depends on what fans they are. I can see you have a Fractal Design, but not sure what fans you are using or what speeds they are running, which can make a huge difference.

You might find "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig helpful. 1st post is index, click on topic of interest to see it. 5th post is a good place to start.


----------



## sol1tary

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 'Normal' is .. well .. what is 'normal'? What is the 'normal' air temp going into cooler compared to the 'normal' room air temperature? What were your 'normal' cpu temps before changing coolers, and what was your original cooler?
> 
> Sorry for being so 'normal'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About all I can really offer is to say we need a lot more 'technical' information about what is going on. My 6700 runs quite warm. Stock it idles around 30c & load is 80c (1.313-1.385v) under cooler that kept my i7 980 @ 4.2GHz at 25-27c idle and 65c @100% load. Both had 22-24c cooler intake air with room 21-22c.
> 
> Your fan setup sounds about right, but depends on what fans they are. I can see you have a Fractal Design, but not sure what fans you are using or what speeds they are running, which can make a huge difference.
> 
> You might find "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig helpful. 1st post is index, click on topic of interest to see it. 5th post is a good place to start.


HI 'normal' guy









Two intake Fractal Design Coolers Fractal Design Dynamic GP-14 (700-800) , rear fan also, bottom fan - Noctua NF-A14 FLX (700-900). Room temp about 22-24 C.
Front case door is closed


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sol1tary*
> 
> HI 'normal' guy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two intake Fractal Design Coolers Fractal Design Dynamic GP-14 (700-800) , rear fan also, bottom fan - Noctua NF-A14 FLX (700-900). Room temp about 22-24 C.
> Front case door is closed


'Normal' room 22-24c, but But no 'normal' cooler intake air temp? Actual cooler intake air temp is a temperature few monitor, but it is way more important than what the temp of your room is. Cooler intake will be from 3-25c warmer than room .. 'normal' systems (those not optimized to be sure coolers receive air close to room temp) is 10-20c warmer. As a rough 'normal' gauge, every degree warmer the air going into cooler is translates into a degree warmer the CPU / GPU will be at full load, While not quite a 1:1 ratio, it is close, especially at high loads.

Oh! I'm far from 'normal'. More of a "abby-normal' kind of guy.


----------



## Lucas Lamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> About all I can really offer is to say we need a lot more 'technical' information about what is going on. My 6700 runs quite warm. Stock it idles around 30c & load is 80c (1.313-1.385v) under cooler that kept my i7 980 @ 4.2GHz at 25-27c idle and 65c @100% load. Both had 22-24c cooler intake air with room 21-22c.


This is a 6700K Skylake? How high is it clocked?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucas Lamer*
> 
> This is a 6700K Skylake? How high is it clocked?


What I said is what it is.







No overclock yet.
Idles high 20's-low 30's with instantaneous spikes to mid 40's. I'm probably being hyper-sensitive to the spikes. It's under TRUE Spirit 140 Rev.A and fan never speeds up. Fan is set 20%@40c &100%44c, runs 295-400rpm rarely goes above 500rpm. I'm using HWINFO64 and MSI Command Center. Command Center shows temps about 2c warmer.


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 'Normal' room 22-24c, but But no 'normal' cooler intake air temp? Actual cooler intake air temp is a temperature few monitor, but it is way more important than what the temp of your room is. Cooler intake will be from 3-25c warmer than room .. 'normal' systems (those not optimized to be sure coolers receive air close to room temp) is 10-20c warmer. As a rough 'normal' gauge, every degree warmer the air going into cooler is translates into a degree warmer the CPU / GPU will be at full load, While not quite a 1:1 ratio, it is close, especially at high loads.
> 
> Oh! I'm far from 'normal'. More of a "abby-normal' kind of guy.


A push fan on a CPU cooler sucking air at over 80CFM through gauze 8 inches away in the front of the case - even if it was pulling it over an optical drive - is surely going to be pushing air into the cooler at or near room temperature. What would be heating it up around the front of the case or over the 8 inches that we need to optimize out of the equation?


----------



## Lucas Lamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What I said is what it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No overclock yet.
> Idles high 20's-low 30's with instantaneous spikes to mid 40's. I'm probably being hyper-sensitive to the spikes. It's under TRUE Spirit 140 Rev.A and fan never speeds up. Fan is set 20%@40c &100%44c, runs 295-400rpm rarely goes above 500rpm. I'm using HWINFO64 and MSI Command Center. Command Center shows temps about 2c warmer.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What I said is what it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No overclock yet.
> Idles high 20's-low 30's with instantaneous spikes to mid 40's. I'm probably being hyper-sensitive to the spikes. It's under TRUE Spirit 140 Rev.A and fan never speeds up. Fan is set 20%@40c &100%44c, runs 295-400rpm rarely goes above 500rpm. I'm using HWINFO64 and MSI Command Center. Command Center shows temps about 2c warmer.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What I said is what it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No overclock yet.
> Idles high 20's-low 30's with instantaneous spikes to mid 40's. I'm probably being hyper-sensitive to the spikes. It's under TRUE Spirit 140 Rev.A and fan never speeds up. Fan is set 20%@40c &100%44c, runs 295-400rpm rarely goes above 500rpm. I'm using HWINFO64 and MSI Command Center. Command Center shows temps about 2c warmer.


It really goes to 80C under load with no overclock?


----------



## miklkit

The video card for starters. I discovered that when I went from a 280X to a 290X. The 290X blows hot air up into the CPU intake air stream, making it run warmer. My solution was to put a more powerful case fan in the front/center location and move the 290X down to the bottom X16 slot.

It was while gaming that it was doing it, not during stress testing.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> A push fan on a CPU cooler sucking air at over 80CFM through gauze 8 inches away in the front of the case - even if it was pulling it over an optical drive - is surely going to be pushing air into the cooler at or near room temperature. What would be heating it up around the front of the case or over the 8 inches that we need to optimize out of the equation?


You are making lots of assumptions that are probably wrong. Put a temperature probe in front of fan and monitor cooler intake air temp. When you do I'm betting it will surprise, even shock you.
Sucking 80cfm of air from where? 80cfm is about twice as much as most case fans flow. Front of case? Or will half of it be circling back around from behind cooler and back into the fan?
What case has intake fan over optical drive?
I new Surely .. she was lying every time she opened her mouth.









As mikkit said, GPU adds heat. Many modern GPUs make more heat than CPU does.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucas Lamer*
> 
> It really goes to 80C under load with no overclock?


Just to check again I did a quick 80-90% load run and temps on al cores were 65-74c Fan spun up and heatpipes were warm between base and finpack as they should be. Maybe I got a bad CPU, I don't know. I know airflow and coolers, but not much about CPUs and such.









Edit: If you want to talk more about this, I can start a thread somewhere. Just say where you think is best.


----------



## Lucas Lamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Just to check again I did a quick 80-90% load run and temps on al cores were 65-74c Fan spun up and heatpipes were warm between base and finpack as they should be. Maybe I got a bad CPU, I don't know. I know airflow and coolers, but not much about CPUs and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: If you want to talk more about this, I can start a thread somewhere. Just say where you think is best.


80C seems crazy hot for no overclock. I was disappointed when my 6600K hit 60C under load during a 3.9 ghz "Turbo" overclock. Maybe I should be thankful it's not worse.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucas Lamer*
> 
> 80C seems crazy hot for no overclock. I was disappointed when my 6600K hit 60C under load during a 3.9 ghz "Turbo" overclock. Maybe I should be thankful it's not worse.


The stock turbo is enabled. To me that is 'stock'.








MB has original bios. Maybe it needs updating.
I've had this for several months, but only used it in HTPC and never worried about it. Thought it was a little warm, but in a small un-optimized airflow case it wasn't totally unreasonable. But now that I've got it out and want to put it to more use it seems to be wimping out on me.
MSI Z170 Mortar, 4x 4GB Crucial RAM, and I know the TRUE Spirit 140 Rev. A is plenty of cooler, even good for reasonable overclocking. My i7 920 and 980 put more heat into cooler base and pipes to finpack and run 15-20c cooler CPU temps.


----------



## miklkit

"What case has intake fan over optical drive?"

Err, mine.........No stock case does that I know of tho and it is an absolute necessity IMHO.


----------



## wermad

Went through a major home renovation and I managed to loose one of the fan clips







. Anyone know where to get replacements from? I don't wanna go ghetto mod. I may go diving in the pile of recycle stuff as the clip might have gone with the numerous bits of cardboard (redid floors).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> "What case has intake fan over optical drive?"
> 
> Err, mine........*.No stock case does that I know of* tho and it is an absolute necessity IMHO.


Key word, they are.
But there are a couple that do. Fractal Design Define S does
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Went through a major home renovation and I managed to loose one of the fan clips
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Anyone know where to get replacements from? I don't wanna go ghetto mod. I may go diving in the pile of recycle stuff as the clip might have gone with the numerous bits of cardboard (redid floors).


If you can't find it, contact customer support. They are quite good about helping us with our sometimes identity ten tea issues.


----------



## miklkit

Ugh. That case has that blank corporate look that is a total turn off to me.

My favorite case was one I bought at a computer show in 2003. It was metalflake blue with two chrome strips running along the top and down the front. All the buttons were big round chrome things and the lights were also oversize. In the front there was this 6" or 155mm round metal speaker grill like we used to put over the speakers in our cars back in the 1960s. Behind it was this huge for the time fan that filled up that grill. The thing looked like a juke box and cooled very well. No filters of course so it was always coated with a thick layer of dust inside.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If you can't find it, contact customer support. They are quite good about helping us with our sometimes identity ten tea issues.


I searched high and low with nothing







.Shot them an email and Im hoping they can sell me one. +1


----------



## wermad

Found it


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Found it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You beat Sod's Law, which says, "You will only find it after you get a replacement."


----------



## wermad

Installed but no power yet. Pending psu cables.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Installed but no power yet. Pending psu cables.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Looks nice.

What case and how is your case airflow setup? I ask because your GPU is going to be making a lot of heat with very limited airflow and very limited separation of cool intake air from heated exhaust air.







You might find 5th post in 'Ways to Better Cooling' of interest. Link is in my sig. 1st post is index. Click on topics to see them.


----------



## wermad

CaseLabs TX10-D:


----------



## miklkit

The PCB extends out past the cooler so with sufficient case air flow blowing the hot air back before it has a chance to move up into the CPU intake air stream it might be ok like that. Or the GPU could be moved down to a lower slot.


----------



## wermad

There's a 480 radiator in front w/ corsair push/pull SP120s high performance. I'll be commandeering the pull fans and run them at 5v off the psu. The front rads have eight fans each and to accommodate all the fans for each channel on the fan controller, some rads were split (I can hook up about 12 fans per channel, not sixteen). Only thing I'm missing is I need some more atx 8pin connectors for the psu. I used them all up for the main system and though I have a few 4+4, it won't be practical. I bought two nzxt 750w units naked, no cables, for cheap. One of them is a secondary psu for my main system, along with a 1000W nzxt unit (this one did come with cables and used all of the plugs); while the second 750w unit is powering on the second system. This system only had a lowly GTS8400 with not auxiliary power initially, so i really didn't need any power cables from the second 750w psu. Now with the Ares Mk1, it needs two 8pin and one 6pin pcie/vga lines. I have the lines, but they no longer have the atx 8pin plugs that go into the psu. I'm ordering these and might as well get the matching Bitfenix red cables I already have in both systems.

edit: I also have some fan brackets coming in for support and cooling:


----------



## michaelius

Is our Phanteks safe to be used on Skywell cpus ? I haven't followed whole cpu bending gate so how did it end?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelius*
> 
> Is our Phanteks safe to be used on Skywell cpus ? I haven't followed whole cpu bending gate so how did it end?


I assume you mean Skylake / LGA1151.

There is no issue using Phanteks cooler on them.


----------



## exitone

Spent tens of hours trying to find the perfect cooler for my i7 920 d0 to overclock safely as my stock fan made cpu heat on stock.

never got a cup cooler before, can someone confirm compatibility before I make the plunge

I7 920
P6t lga1366 motherboard
cm 690 case (pretty sure it's v1)
Gskill ram, 32mm according to website

it's about the same price as Nh-14 and out of stock Cryorig r1


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exitone*
> 
> Spent tens of hours trying to find the perfect cooler for my i7 920 d0 to overclock safely as my stock fan made cpu heat on stock.
> 
> never got a cup cooler before, can someone confirm compatibility before I make the plunge
> 
> I7 920
> P6t lga1366 motherboard
> cm 690 case (pretty sure it's v1)
> Gskill ram, 32mm according to website
> 
> it's about the same price as Nh-14 and out of stock Cryorig r1


Phanteks PH-TC14PE have 1366 compatibility.


----------



## exitone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> Phanteks PH-TC14PE have 1366 compatibility.


Yeah but since the cooler is so huge im worried it might not fit. For $50 ok. but for $100 here its a concern and i dont want to take risks.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exitone*
> 
> Spent tens of hours trying to find the perfect cooler for my i7 920 d0 to overclock safely as my stock fan made cpu heat on stock.
> 
> never got a cup cooler before, can someone confirm compatibility before I make the plunge
> 
> I7 920
> P6t lga1366 motherboard
> cm 690 case (pretty sure it's v1)
> Gskill ram, 32mm according to website
> 
> it's about the same price as Nh-14 and out of stock Cryorig r1


I have a cup cooler / warmer in my motorhome. Keeps coffee hot an cold drinks cold, but have no idea how to use it in a computer.









PH-TC14PE should fit no problem.
TC14 is 161mm to top of cooler plus fans. It has 42mm from top of CPU to bottom fin.
Your 32mm RAM stands 35mm above motherboard and with a 140mm fan is 175mm tall .. which is 168mm above top of CPU.
CM 690 is 177mm CPU clearance.
P6T has lots of clearance to nearest PCIe socket and 69mm to RAM.socket

PH-TC14PE is a cooler I've been using from first release. Only change has been to update the fans.


----------



## exitone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have a cup cooler / warmer in my motorhome. Keeps coffee hot an cold drinks cold, but have no idea how to use it in a computer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PH-TC14PE should fit no problem.
> TC14 is 161mm to top of cooler plus fans. It has 42mm from top of CPU to bottom fin.
> Your 32mm RAM stands 35mm above motherboard and with a 140mm fan is 175mm tall .. which is 168mm above top of CPU.
> CM 690 is 177mm CPU clearance.
> P6T has lots of clearance to nearest PCIe socket and 69mm to RAM.socket
> 
> PH-TC14PE is a cooler I've been using from first release. Only change has been to update the fans.


#justautocorrectthings

Changed it to cpu like twice but didn't do anything







Using an iPad WITHOUT autocorrect now (all mounting pins on stock cooler broken, don't ask me how.. so I can't use pc)

Anyways good to know, possibly an overkill but I plan to use this for many years and I want to OC to support GTX 780 or better, with minimal risk since I haven't OC before.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exitone*
> 
> #justautocorrectthings
> 
> Changed it to cpu like twice but didn't do anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using an iPad WITHOUT autocorrect now (all mounting pins on stock cooler broken, don't ask me how.. so I can't use pc)
> 
> Anyways good to know, possibly an overkill but I plan to use this for many years and I want to OC to support GTX 780 or better, with minimal risk since I haven't OC before.


The devil in me made me do that.









Pay attention to case airflow to be sure components are getting cool air an you will be cool .. I mean fine.








http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22319249


----------



## exitone

Ok, got the cooler today and found out there's actually no hole to access the back of motherboard to install backplate. :/


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exitone*
> 
> Ok, got the cooler today and found out there's actually no hole to access the back of motherboard to install backplate. :/


What motherboard / cpu do you have?


----------



## hht92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What motherboard / cpu do you have?


I think he mean that he cant access the back of the motherboard cause of the case and he need to remove the motherboard in order to install the cooler.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hht92*
> 
> I think he mean that he cant access the back of the motherboard cause of the case and he need to remove the motherboard in order to install the cooler.










But of course.








Maybe I need to finish my first cuppa before trying to think.


----------



## miklkit

It's intel as the AMD install uses the stock backing plate.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exitone*
> 
> Ok, got the cooler today and found out there's actually no hole to access the back of motherboard to install backplate. :/


Just install the base hardware and then put your board back in your case. Screw down your board and then (the tricky part), install your cooler. A long philips head screwdriver helps a lot to clear the towers when tightening it down. Finally, another tricky one, install your fans.

edit: if you want to test for ram clearance, install the cooler and fans when your board is out. Its much easier to troubleshoot clearance issues with the board outside.


----------



## doyll

I always do a test / practice /dry installation before final install. It same lots of heartache and grief but making sure everything is lining up, crossbar screws start as the should. if power or fan headers will end up under cooler, etc.

Most of my builds have cooler installed on motherboard with all fan and power cables plugged into motherbooard before motherboard is installed into case.


----------



## exitone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just install the base hardware and then put your board back in your case. Screw down your board and then (the tricky part), install your cooler. A long philips head screwdriver helps a lot to clear the towers when tightening it down. Finally, another tricky one, install your fans.
> 
> edit: if you want to test for ram clearance, install the cooler and fans when your board is out. Its much easier to troubleshoot clearance issues with the board outside.


Ya, already installed mounting base and put the motherboard back into the computer. Will try finish it today and show pics. My cooler came with the fans already installed (new version?) so that shoudln't be an issue.


----------



## wermad

Mine didn't have them install but I bought mine (new) from an ebay merchant.

Sadly, that whole rig and its triple fan phanteks is going soon. I don't have a need for this second rig and I'll just replace it with my shelved oem system for my business/job.


----------



## exitone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Mine didn't have them install but I bought mine (new) from an ebay merchant.
> 
> Sadly, that whole rig and its triple fan phanteks is going soon. I don't have a need for this second rig and I'll just replace it with my shelved oem system for my business/job.


Aw that sucks. Mine came with the newer fans but a different box to with the fans already install. The instructions only said how to take fans off.


----------



## wermad

Its cool, since you need to take them off anyways, it wasn't a biggie. I think yours might have the v2 fans, ? The third fan I bought has slightly higher rpm vs the stock ones and its designated "v2".

Interestingly, i contacted Phanteks a few months ago when I thought I lost my fan clips. I asked where to find new clips and at the same time asked what was the main difference between the stock fans and the retail v2's. Never got a reply....


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exitone*
> 
> Ya, already installed mounting base and put the motherboard back into the computer. Will try finish it today and show pics. My cooler came with the fans already installed (new version?) so that shoudln't be an issue.


You need to remove the middle fan to install cooler.







Please do yourself a favor and set cooler onto CPU without TM and start the screws into base. Sometimes the base straps need to be loosed and re-tightened after crossbar screws are started to get crossbar screws to line up properly. This is because the clearance of holes to screws from backplate to crossbars all have a little movement, and if all these are not perfectly centered before tightening the crossbar screws may not line up properly to their threaded holes. Common problem assembling anything with multiple parts.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its cool, since you need to take them off anyways, it wasn't a biggie. I think yours might have the v2 fans, ? The third fan I bought has slightly higher rpm vs the stock ones and its designated "v2".
> 
> Interestingly, i contacted Phanteks a few months ago when I thought I lost my fan clips. I asked where to find new clips and at the same time asked what was the main difference between the stock fans and the retail v2's. Never got a reply....


That is interesting. Phanteks USA has always be very good at replying to my needs. Phanteks international is not as good.









If you still need help, try again. If that doesn't work, let me know and maybe I can help.


----------



## exitone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You need to remove the middle fan to install cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please do yourself a favor and set cooler onto CPU without TM and start the screws into base. Sometimes the base straps need to be loosed and re-tightened after crossbar screws are started to get crossbar screws to line up properly. This is because the clearance of holes to screws from backplate to crossbars all have a little movement, and if all these are not perfectly centered before tightening the crossbar screws may not line up properly to their threaded holes. Common problem assembling anything with multiple parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is interesting. Phanteks USA has always be very good at replying to my needs. Phanteks international is not as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you still need help, try again. If that doesn't work, let me know and maybe I can help.


Ya, I didn't read your reply and it took me a while until I tried loosening the mounting bar a bit so both screws could go in. So thermal paste got spread unintentionally. Not a big deal though since I went from 55-60 degrees to 30-38 degrees idle. The result seems quite good I guess (not sure)I think I tilted the middle fan after I took it out to install, I assume my temperature would not have been affected since the fan is still covering the heat sink fully...

Bad thing from installation process: Power switch broke so I had to swap power with the reset button.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exitone*
> 
> Ya, I didn't read your reply and it took me a while until I tried loosening the mounting bar a bit so both screws could go in. So thermal paste got spread unintentionally. Not a big deal though since I went from 55-60 degrees to 30-38 degrees idle. The result seems quite good I guess (not sure)I think I tilted the middle fan after I took it out to install, I assume my temperature would not have been affected since the fan is still covering the heat sink fully...
> 
> Bad thing from installation process: Power switch broke so I had to swap power with the reset button.


I have emailed all cooler companies of coolers I use to have the suggestion of a trial install to make sure everything fits, but none to date have added it to their manuals. Anyone who has mechanical assembly experience knows not to tighten multi-screw/bolt assemblies until all are started, but many cooler installers and PC builders with little or no experience fall prey to same problem you had. Thing is it only take a few seconds to check everything is fitting and all screws are starting as they should and all cables can be plugged in before applying TIM. Well worth the few seconds it takes.


----------



## exitone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have emailed all cooler companies of coolers I use to have the suggestion of a trial install to make sure everything fits, but none to date have added it to their manuals. Anyone who has mechanical assembly experience knows not to tighten multi-screw/bolt assemblies until all are started, but many cooler installers and PC builders with little or no experience fall prey to same problem you had. Thing is it only take a few seconds to check everything is fitting and all screws are starting as they should and all cables can be plugged in before applying TIM. Well worth the few seconds it takes.


Yeah, I can see it hopeless if you screw one screw before starting the others... My problem was however that the 2 bar thingies were secured well but the cooler couldn't fit since I think they might have been BENT due to being screwed in so tight. Never over-screw...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exitone*
> 
> Yeah, I can see it hopeless if you screw one screw before starting the others... My problem was however that the 2 bar thingies were secured well but the cooler couldn't fit since I think they might have been BENT due to being screwed in so tight. Never over-screw...


That is possible.

But I have seem many post about not being able to get the crossbar screws to start, and the reason was always because the side bars needed to be loosened, crossbar installed without cooler, and then re-tighten sidebars.

Another rather common problem is the crossbar springs make started the screws very hard the first time. But after they are trial run installed,tightened and taken off, the springs are not as tight and allow the screws to start much easier the second time.

I have a little tiny pin-oilier (designed for mechanical clocks and such) and often put just a hint of oil on the screw threads and between screw head and spring to reduce friction. Result is screws go in much easier. But be very careful not to put more than just a 'hint' of oil on.


----------



## miklkit

Your post there got me digging around in my case again with the result that the Phanteks 14pe is out. I tried different spacers and different mounts but just could not find a combination that got it to fight tightly on the CPU. It was frustrating as I want to like it but it just can't cool AMD high overclocks with its current mounting system.

So for now I'm using the Silver Arrow.


----------



## make43

If I put PWM external adapter to 4 pin cpu header then connect y-cable to pwm adapter and finally connect those two 3pin fans to y cable. Does it convert both to pwm fans or can I use it only for 1 fan?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *make43*
> 
> If I put PWM external adapter to 4 pin cpu header then connect y-cable to pwm adapter and finally connect those two 3pin fans to y cable. Does it convert both to pwm fans or can I use it only for 1 fan?


Short answer:
Yes, it controls fan speed from PWM header
Long answer:
It does not convert the fans into PWM fans, it regulates the 12v power from PWM header using the PWM signal so the 3-pin fans slow down and speed up like they would on a variable voltage header. But if your CPU fan header can be set variable voltage, do not use the adapter.


----------



## miklkit

So I got inspired to try this Phanteks mounting system again. And once again it failed to do its job.









So this time I tried other parts.









It turns out that the Thermalright Silver Arrow mount (the parts that attach to the motherboard) are all steel and are slightly shorter than the Phanteks mount. So the Phanteks mounting bars got bolted on and the Phanteks cooler with its cross bar bolted to that.

It worked! It even has more tension than before.









About tension, it feels about the same as the Silver Arrow but still less than the HE01. It is way more than stock.

Something else is base size and overall fit.

The SA has the largest base but is the hardest to fit up properly. This results in a bad matchup between the cooler and cpu when I get into a hurry, which happened last time. This left it sitting too close to the ram and its base was not fully covering the cpu. Yes I noticed it seemed to be running a bit warmer than it used to.

The HE01 has a medium size base and is easy to line up. This makes it very consistent with its cooling.

The Phanteks has a small base that just barely covers the AMD FX cpu. There is plenty of room there for another 8mm heat pipe.







But that fin in the center lines it up so it does cover the cpu, even if it just barely does it.

So here we go with my Frankencooler part deaux. It has a Thermalright base, a Phanteks mount, and Thermalright ty-143 fans held on with Silverstone fan bales.


Oh yeah. Notice how it covers the first two tall ram sticks and no it does not touch them.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> So I got inspired to try this Phanteks mounting system again. And once again it failed to do its job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here we go with my Frankencooler part deaux. It has a Thermalright base, a Phanteks mount, and Thermalright ty-143 fans held on with Silverstone fan bales.
> 
> 
> Oh yeah. Notice how it covers the first two tall ram sticks and no it does not touch them.


Nice frankenmounten! Gotta get some fans on it tho - looks like it's red hot!


----------



## miklkit

Ok, this is the first Frankenmount.


----------



## .theMetal

Question for fellow PH-TC14 owners. I'm going to be getting a new case soon, my Node 304 is just a bit too toasty and I'm looking to grab something a bit bigger to feed the components some more fresh air and quiet the fans down a bit. I am really interested in the Fractal Design Nano S with a window. I like the layout, and it has one of the Fractal 140MM fans in the front, and I have another here, so I would have matching one 140mm fans in the front of the case. I think my components would run much cooler.

Anyways to the question. The windowed case says it clears heatsinks up to 160mm. I know the phanteks is 160mm and I know I can push my fans down below the top level of the heatsink because I have a shorter center screw in the middle and I have very low profile ram. *I don't really want to get a different heatsink, my phanteks keeps my processor super cool, has anyone used a phanteks in a "160mm clearance" case? Would you chance it?*

One more note, there is a picture of an Noctua NH-D15 in the case *without* a window. The case without the window is 163mm of clearance and the NH-D15 pipes and all measures at 165mm. (I'm wanting a window in my next case.)

I have a backup case that is bigger and I know things will fit, a Silverstone KL06B-W. It has dual 120's in the front, I like the flipped motherboard layout as well. It would definitely give my card more breathing room.

Here is the current layout, just so you see why I'm wanting a change:


----------



## MicroCat

If you can get the fans below the cooler top, should be fine. If Fractal says it clears 160mm, then it will. They wouldn't state 160mm if it was 158mm. And 99% of case specs for cooler height err on the conservative side and usually provide an extra few mm. The D15 is 160mm without fans - 165mm with.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> So I got inspired to try this Phanteks mounting system again. And once again it failed to do its job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this time I tried other parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turns out that the Thermalright Silver Arrow mount (the parts that attach to the motherboard) are all steel and are slightly shorter than the Phanteks mount. So the Phanteks mounting bars got bolted on and the Phanteks cooler with its cross bar bolted to that.
> 
> It worked! It even has more tension than before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About tension, it feels about the same as the Silver Arrow but still less than the HE01. It is way more than stock.
> 
> Something else is base size and overall fit.
> 
> The SA has the largest base but is the hardest to fit up properly. This results in a bad matchup between the cooler and cpu when I get into a hurry, which happened last time. This left it sitting too close to the ram and its base was not fully covering the cpu. Yes I noticed it seemed to be running a bit warmer than it used to.
> 
> The HE01 has a medium size base and is easy to line up. This makes it very consistent with its cooling.
> 
> The Phanteks has a small base that just barely covers the AMD FX cpu. There is plenty of room there for another 8mm heat pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But that fin in the center lines it up so it does cover the cpu, even if it just barely does it.
> 
> So here we go with my Frankencooler part deaux. It has a Thermalright base, a Phanteks mount, and Thermalright ty-143 fans held on with Silverstone fan bales.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah. Notice how it covers the first two tall ram sticks and no it does not touch them.


Nicely done!









I know the center bar on base that indexes the crossbar in place stops using a single center shim , but why not use a shim of equal thickness on either side of this with center screw applying pressure on crossbar to hold them in place on cooler while attaching to mount?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Question for fellow PH-TC14 owners. I'm going to be getting a new case soon, my Node 304 is just a bit too toasty and I'm looking to grab something a bit bigger to feed the components some more fresh air and quiet the fans down a bit. I am really interested in the Fractal Design Nano S with a window. I like the layout, and it has one of the Fractal 140MM fans in the front, and I have another here, so I would have matching one 140mm fans in the front of the case. I think my components would run much cooler.
> 
> Anyways to the question. The windowed case says it clears heatsinks up to 160mm. I know the phanteks is 160mm and I know I can push my fans down below the top level of the heatsink because I have a shorter center screw in the middle and I have very low profile ram. *I don't really want to get a different heatsink, my phanteks keeps my processor super cool, has anyone used a phanteks in a "160mm clearance" case? Would you chance it?*
> 
> One more note, there is a picture of an Noctua NH-D15 in the case *without* a window. The case without the window is 163mm of clearance and the NH-D15 pipes and all measures at 165mm. (I'm wanting a window in my next case.)
> 
> I have a backup case that is bigger and I know things will fit, a Silverstone KL06B-W. It has dual 120's in the front, I like the flipped motherboard layout as well. It would definitely give my card more breathing room.
> 
> Here is the current layout, just so you see why I'm wanting a change:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


If what you have found is true it will fit. The PH-TC14PE is 160mm tall and yes, by changing the center screw the fans are at or below the top .. assuming your RAM is not holding front fan up. Only way I know of to find out is do it. Sorry, but that's the best I can suggest.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> If you can get the fans below the cooler top, should be fine. If Fractal says it clears 160mm, then it will. They wouldn't state 160mm if it was 158mm. And 99% of case specs for cooler height err on the conservative side and usually provide an extra few mm. The D15 is 160mm without fans - 165mm with.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If what you have found is true it will fit. The PH-TC14PE is 160mm tall and yes, by changing the center screw the fans are at or below the top .. assuming your RAM is not holding front fan up. Only way I know of to find out is do it. Sorry, but that's the best I can suggest.


Thanks guys, I appreciate the input. I think it's going to fit, I just needed a little bit more confidence. I have a few more things to research, you might see me pop up in your air cooling guide doyll


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nicely done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know the center bar on base that indexes the crossbar in place stops using a single center shim , but why not use a shim of equal thickness on either side of this with center screw applying pressure on crossbar to hold them in place on cooler while attaching to mount?
> If what you have found is true it will fit. The PH-TC14PE is 160mm tall and yes, by changing the center screw the fans are at or below the top .. assuming your RAM is not holding front fan up. Only way I know of to find out is do it. Sorry, but that's the best I can suggest.


I thought of placing 2 washers on the base and glueing them down with silicone seal. No bolt needed. But that still leaves the small diameter bolts that go down to the back plate through the plastic spacers. Weak and flex prone as in the washers might not make any difference at all as the rest of the mount would just twist and flex. The Thermalright mount is all solid steel and does not flex. The spacers are solid steel instead of soft plastic. I will take steel over plastic in a heartbeat as I worked with steel in my career.


----------



## Himo5

Another way to go on the clearance issue would be to incorporate it into a side panel window project.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I thought of placing 2 washers on the base and glueing them down with silicone seal. No bolt needed. But that still leaves the small diameter bolts that go down to the back plate through the plastic spacers. Weak and flex prone as in the washers might not make any difference at all as the rest of the mount would just twist and flex. The Thermalright mount is all solid steel and does not flex. The spacers are solid steel instead of soft plastic. I will take steel over plastic in a heartbeat as I worked with steel in my career.


I need to dig out my old AMD Athlon II X4 630, get it up on the bench with cooler and do some studying. I'm wondering if a couple of straight line sidebars could be mounted on AMD mount and use a correspondingly shorter crossbar.


----------



## miklkit

If I read you correctly then yes that would work. If the mount could be boxed it would be much much stronger and the stress would be taken off the plastic spacers. The Silverstone mount is actually built that way with two side bars bolted to the top and bottom bars that the cross bar bolts to. The Thermalright mount is one solid piece.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> If I read you correctly then yes that would work. If the mount could be boxed it would be much much stronger and the stress would be taken off the plastic spacers. The Silverstone mount is actually built that way with two side bars bolted to the top and bottom bars that the cross bar bolts to. The Thermalright mount is one solid piece.


Remind me in a couple of weeks to follow-up on this. The next 10 days or so are Computex 2016, so can't do anything until things settle down again.


----------



## miklkit

Two weeks? suuuuuuure.









BTW here is how it did yesterday. Browsing, surfing, Youtubing, and DX11 gaming. Plus a few hours idling of course.


----------



## miklkit

Well, it's time to swap this Phantek for a different cooler. It just isn't quite as good as the others and I'm tired of the fans howling trying to keep things cool.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Well, it's time to swap this Phantek for a different cooler. It just isn't quite as good as the others and I'm tired of the fans howling trying to keep things cool.


Could you just change out the fans? I couldn't imagine you getting much better results with a different dual tower, maybe by a few degrees, but seems like you could swap fans to do that and save a chunk of money. But it's been a while since I shopped, so maybe there is a dual tower that is considerably better now adays?


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Well, it's time to swap this Phantek for a different cooler. It just isn't quite as good as the others and I'm tired of the fans howling trying to keep things cool.


What happened to your HE01? Thought that was your fav.


----------



## miklkit

The Phanteks is an experiment that just didn't work as well as I had hoped. This one is my Frankencooler with a Thermalright backing plate and spacers, Thermalright TY-143 fans held on with Silverstone wire bales, with the Phanteks mount bolted to the Thermalright base.

I wanted to compare 6mm to 8mm heat pipes but this cooler only has 5-8mm pipes and really needs a 6th one, plus a much sturdier mounting system. It just doesn't cool quite as well as the others I have tried. It looks good too which is why it's still in there.

The HE01 is patiently sitting in its box. It will either be the Silver Arrow IBE Extreme ( Oh look! A shiny thing! ) or the blocky industrial looking HE01.


----------



## MicroCat

Are you really going to be satisfied with any of those puny coolers, when you know this could be your next Frankenmoment.


----------



## miklkit

Oh wretched excess. Moar power!


----------



## hackdrag0n

Can I get an add please?


----------



## Genericuser1

I'll probably trade out the fans for ones with black shrouds at some point


----------



## phyber

hello guys








could this cooler possibly fit in jonsbo UMX4 ( 162mm max height ) on asus maximus viii ranger , with both lowered fans (to fit in the case) pulling air from the rear of the case (without fan at RAM area) ??

BTW it is already EoL product, with no successor? rly hard to find in europe


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phyber*
> 
> hello guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> could this cooler possibly fit in jonsbo UMX4 ( 162mm max height ) on asus maximus viii ranger , with both lowered fans (to fit in the case) pulling air from the rear of the case (without fan at RAM area) ??
> 
> BTW it is already EoL product, with no successor? rly hard to find in europe


The cooler will fit, and if you replace the thumb screw that holds the crossbar to cooler base with a normal screw (either a HDD mount screw or optical bay mount screw, can't remember which) the middle fan will set low enough to be flush with top of cooler.

The problem will be RAM height or VRM heatsink height.
The 162mm CPU clearance is 170mm from top of motherboard to case.
When we subtract 140mm fan for the fan we have 30m from fan to motherboard.

The RAM socket raises RAM 3mm so the maximum height RAM can be is 27mm. If RAM is more than 27mm tall a fan will not fit between RAM and case.

Here is a drawing explaining CPU and RAM clearnace.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/20_20#post_23232751


----------



## miklkit

This post is also related to another one I did today but rather than hijack that thread I will continue here.

So after many moons I finally gotaroundtoit and swapped out the Phanteks and installed the Silver Arrow. This was the easiest way as the SA base was already installed along with the TY-143 fans.

The difference was immediate and dramatic. Both the CPU and the GPU temperatures are now lower at lower fan speeds! Not a lot but it is noticeable.

Now I expected to see lower CPU temps but the GPU too? This hints at reduced overall case air flow. So I used the highly technical and extremely difficult test method of testing air flow of sticking my hand behind the case to feel the power. Ayup! There is more air coming out of the back of the case than there was before, and at lower fan speeds.

So what is going on here? Is the Phanteks fin pack much more restrictive than the fin pack on the Silver Arrow? It doesn't look restrictive. Is the Phanteks fin pack incompatible with the TY-143 fans? Would mounting the fans closer to the motherboard on the Phanteks cause an air flow restriction?

I'm not confused. Nope. Not one little bit.


----------



## Himo5

That's really helpful that is, thanks a bunch!

On another note I broke a fan while I was bench testing a hub and since I haven't seen it dissassembled anywhere here's my Phanteks PH-TC14PE Fan Dissassembly chart for anyone who needs it.


Yep, this one can take a 3mm circlip if you need to replace the plastic one as well.


----------



## Ne1ld0

I've owned this awesome cooler for a few years now. I had to modifiy it to work with my high-profile (tall) RAM. I added a 3rd 120mm fan as I couldn't use another 140mm fan due to my tall RAM. I also did the sharpie mod to my fans.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



This shows what I had to mod to get this to work with my RAM.

Here you can see the 3rd 120mm fan installed right against the RAM.

With 3rd fan up against the RAM, it sticks out the front evenly with other two 140mm fans.

Looking through the side window, you can't even see my Corsair Dominator Platinum RAM. The cooling tower covered up 2 of my 4 RAM sticks so I went a head and covered up the other 2 with my 3rd fan.




It's a great air CPU cooler that I've used on a couple different ROG Maximus motherboards and have had no issues with other than having to slightly modify it to fit with my RAM which was super easy and took less than 5 mins.


----------



## doyll

Thanks @Ne1ld0








I've been using PH-TC14PE sense they first came out. Firsts was red with variable voltage 3-pin fans I changed to TY-143 fans (red housing matched cooler red), and now black one with new PH-F140HP_II fans. With 5 working cases in the house I use several different coolers and find Phanteks to be one of the very best.


----------



## Ne1ld0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks @Ne1ld0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been using PH-TC14PE sense they first came out. Firsts was red with variable voltage 3-pin fans I changed to TY-143 fans (red housing matched cooler red), and now black one with new PH-F140HP_II fans. With 5 working cases in the house I use several different coolers and find Phanteks to be one of the very best.


It's really cool that you used TY-143 fans as they are very similar looking to the 140mm Phanteks fans and I believe they perform a little better as well.

I like that Phanteks offers a small variety of colors on their coolers and fans. I do wish they offered white colored cooling towers though. The shiny aluminum metal is ok, but I would have bought white if they had it.

Going through the pictures on here, I was surprised to find that only one other person on here, @jassilamba, has done the sharpie mod to their fans. When installed, I didn't like that it was hard to read the raised lettering on the Phanteks fans so I fixed that by simply going over the lettering with a black sharpie. I have seen others do the sharpie mod on Phanteks's forum.

I believe I've even seen you, Doyll, on the Phanteks forum as well.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> First with the Corsair Dominator, the fan sits too high and I *could NOT close* the top of my HAF XB
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, I'm shocked that you got the massive PH-TC14PE to fit without modification to it using Corsair Dominator Platinum RAM. I do see that you had to remove the light bar from your RAM sticks but that's no big deal as the tower covers up half of them anyway. Instead of swapping out your RAM though, I would have moved that 140mm fan to the back as previously mentioned by Doyll and installed a 120mm fan next to your RAM. This way you could still close your side panel and all 3 fans would line up at the front.

Kind of wish I had removed the light bars from my RAM now that I found this. Seems like a better solution than I came up with and that coming from me is a big compliment.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ne1ld0*
> 
> It's really cool that you used TY-143 fans as they are very similar looking to the 140mm Phanteks fans and I believe they perform a little better as well.
> 
> I like that Phanteks offers a small variety of colors on their coolers and fans. I do wish they offered white colored cooling towers though. The shiny aluminum metal is ok, but I would have bought white if they had it.
> 
> Going through the pictures on here, I was surprised to find that only one other person on here,


Actually the TY-143 can move about twice as much air as Phanteks fans do. It's operating rpm is 600rpm to 2500rpm. Quite loud at 2500rpm, but slightly quieter than Phanteks at same rpm.










I was using TY-147A on my black PH-TC14PE before I got the new PH_F140HP_II ,, and may change to TY-140 Black, which is really a TY-147A (300-1300rpm) with black fan instead of white fan.







Sadly they are only available on a cooler.


----------



## seanpatrick

Hey all!

Does anyone know where I could get those little rubber washers that fit inside the screw holes on Phanteks fans? I'm thinking of reusing my Phanteks cpu cooler but realize I'm missing some of the little black washers, so there's no way to mount anything to the cooler.

Thanks!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanpatrick*
> 
> Hey all!
> 
> Does anyone know where I could get those little rubber washers that fit inside the screw holes on Phanteks fans? I'm thinking of reusing my Phanteks cpu cooler but realize I'm missing some of the little black washers, so there's no way to mount anything to the cooler.
> 
> Thanks!


I assume you are referring to the 8x black 'O'rings (4x on each side of fan) ?


These are really not used to mount fan to cooler. The wire fan clip squeezes the fan against the gray/white rubber strips on fin pack (shown in 2nd image below).


There 6x gray/white rubber / silicone vibration strips supplied with cooler with instructions to put them on front of fin packs between fan and fin pack.. On the box they are called '6x Rubber bars', while in the manual they are called 'acoustic rubber bars'.
You can see this rubber bar between the \/ and /\ in image below.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . \/

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . /\

Hope this helps.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanpatrick*
> 
> Hey all!
> 
> Does anyone know where I could get those little rubber washers that fit inside the screw holes on Phanteks fans? I'm thinking of reusing my Phanteks cpu cooler but realize I'm missing some of the little black washers, so there's no way to mount anything to the cooler.
> 
> Thanks!


I am guessing you are referring to the fan clip adapters?


Have you contacted Phanteks customer service? They are usually great about getting odd parts to users.

It would be impossible to use the included clips without them, or rigging something to replace them.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I am guessing you are referring to the fan clip adapters?
> 
> 
> Have you contacted Phanteks customer service? They are usually great about getting odd parts to users.
> 
> It would be impossible to use the included clips without them, or rigging something to replace them.


This may be what seanpatrick is talking about. I have made them using zip-ties:

*Make Phanteks Fan Clip Pins With Zip-ties*
First feed the tip Zip-tie through the mounting hole and back, start it into it's latch, slip something about 2mm in size (like drill bit) into Zip-tie loop on other side of fan hole and pull Zip-tie tight. Clip off excess zip-tie and we have one new fan clip pin.

Zip-tie fan clip adapter in wrong mounting hole. . . . . Phanteks fan clip adapter and Zip-tie fan clip adapter
 

Zip-tie fan clip adapter in TY-143 fan


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> This may be what seanpatrick is talking about. I have made them using zip-ties:
> 
> *Make Phanteks Fan Clip Pins With Zip-ties*
> First feed the tip Zip-tie through the mounting hole and back, start it into it's latch, slip something about 2mm in size (like drill bit) into Zip-tie loop on other side of fan hole and pull Zip-tie tight. Clip off excess zip-tie and we have one new fan clip pin.
> 
> Zip-tie fan clip adapter in wrong mounting hole. . . . . Phanteks fan clip adapter and Zip-tie fan clip adapter
> 
> 
> Zip-tie fan clip adapter in TY-143 fan


Zip ties work. I have also done them with pieces of metal from paper clips. More than one way to skin a cat,or mount a fan, as the case may be.


----------



## seanpatrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> This may be what seanpatrick is talking about. I have made them using zip-ties:
> 
> *Make Phanteks Fan Clip Pins With Zip-ties*
> First feed the tip Zip-tie through the mounting hole and back, start it into it's latch, slip something about 2mm in size (like drill bit) into Zip-tie loop on other side of fan hole and pull Zip-tie tight. Clip off excess zip-tie and we have one new fan clip pin.
> 
> Zip-tie fan clip adapter in wrong mounting hole. . . . . Phanteks fan clip adapter and Zip-tie fan clip adapter
> 
> 
> Zip-tie fan clip adapter in TY-143 fan


Yup, that's what I'm talking about









I'll try fashioning some out of zip ties, worse case scenario I'll contact Phanteks. Thanks for the tips!


----------



## DiceAir

So I'm thinking of getting this cooler but have a few questions.

I have the following system

air540
ADATA XPG v2 RAM
4790k
Z97 vii ranger motehrboard

My main concern is that ram will not fit under the heatsink. So can someone tell me if it will fit?

I can get it for a really good deal. the one shop here is selling this cooler for just a little bit more than a hyper 212x and that already makes me want to buy this it's just the ram compatibility that worries me. I can also get the ph-tc12dx for a very good price and I can be 100% sure the ram will fit but so tempted to buy the PH-TC14PE. I don't want an AIO cooler right now so don't even suggest me that.

then the other question will it fit in the case? I see the max height with fans is 171mm and my case can do 170mm. So it barely fits


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> So I'm thinking of getting this cooler but have a few questions.
> 
> I have the following system
> 
> air540
> ADATA XPG v2 RAM
> 4790k
> Z97 vii ranger motehrboard
> 
> My main concern is that ram will not fit under the heatsink. So can someone tell me if it will fit?
> 
> I can get it for a really good deal. the one shop here is selling this cooler for just a little bit more than a hyper 212x and that already makes me want to buy this it's just the ram compatibility that worries me. I can also get the ph-tc12dx for a very good price and I can be 100% sure the ram will fit but so tempted to buy the PH-TC14PE. I don't want an AIO cooler right now so don't even suggest me that.


You will have to move the front fan up a little, but it will fit.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> You will have to move the front fan up a little, but it will fit.


I see the memory is short enough to fit under the actual heatsink so memory is kinda sorted but maybe the fan will be an issue. on the phanteks website they say that it's 171mm with dual fans.

Other thing is will I be able to have my sound card in the very first pci-e 1x slot? I can move it to another slot but if I don't have to it will be a plus for me


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I see the memory is short enough to fit under the actual heatsink so memory is kinda sorted but maybe the fan will be an issue. on the phanteks website they say that it's 171mm with dual fans.
> 
> Other thing is will I be able to have my sound card in the very first pci-e 1x slot? I can move it to another slot but if I don't have to it will be a plus for me


Yes, RAM will fit under finpack no problem. Cooler is 160mm tall, but with fans centered on finpack it is 171mm to top of fan from surface of CPU.
The problem is that your RAM is 43mm tall/38mm above CPU. Add 140mm for fan and we have a total of 178mm and Air 540 only has 170mm clearance.
The solution is to use only center fan or both fans in pull / pull instead of normal push / push. With one fan in middle it will be 2-4c warmer, but still mch better than 212. Wth 2x fan in pull / pull it will cool same as with 2x fans in pull / pull.

You might need to remove the thumb screw that holds the mounting crossbar so center fan will fit low enough. A normal HDD or optical drive screw . can't remember with is same thread and makes a good replacement if you want it mounted, but there is no need for the screw.

No, the top PCIe x1 socket is only 64mm center CPU to near side. Cooler is a little of 74mm with fan clips.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yes, RAM will fit under finpack no problem. Cooler is 160mm tall, but with fans centered on finpack it is 171mm to top of fan from surface of CPU.
> The problem is that your RAM is 43mm tall/38mm above CPU. Add 140mm for fan and we have a total of 178mm and Air 540 only has 170mm clearance.
> The solution is to use only center fan or both fans in pull / pull instead of normal push / push. With one fan in middle it will be 2-4c warmer, but still mch better than 212. Wth 2x fan in pull / pull it will cool same as with 2x fans in pull / pull.
> 
> You might need to remove the thumb screw that holds the mounting crossbar so center fan will fit low enough. A normal HDD or optical drive screw . can't remember with is same thread and makes a good replacement if you want it mounted, but there is no need for the screw.
> 
> No, the top PCIe x1 socket is only 64mm center CPU to near side. Cooler is a little of 74mm with fan clips.


thanks for the info. seems like I would have to keep looking as this seems a bit complicated and risky for me now. Don't want to buy something that I have a hassle of fitting into my setup.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> thanks for the info. seems like I would have to keep looking as this seems a bit complicated and risky for me now. Don't want to buy something that I have a hassle of fitting into my setup.


There is no hassle to it. It is much easier to do than installing cooler mount.








Fans clips have to be mounted on fans either way you use them, so no difference there.
Thumb screw from crossbar is no problem either, you just don't install it to start with .. or install it and if fan will not fit low enough for case cover to fit remove it.

Moving sound card to another slot is not a problem.

Edit: Unless you have other slots full.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> There is no hassle to it. It is much easier to do than installing cooler mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fans clips have to be mounted on fans either way you use them, so no difference there.
> Thumb screw from crossbar is no problem either, you just don't install it to start with .. or install it and if fan will not fit low enough for case cover to fit remove it.
> 
> Moving sound card to another slot is not a problem.
> 
> Edit: Unless you have other slots full.


The next question wont the fan ht the rear vrm or io port/covers or whatever you call them. I had a great deal of experience with a Thermalright silver arrow and that used to fit easily in my case but had to install 1 of the fans at the back side of cooler but was hitting the io port/covers (whatever you get what I mean) but I still managed to fit. I got rid of that cooler cause I had sli and sound card but now I'm going back to air cooling and this I can get for a really good deal here. Much better cooler than a hyper 212x.

https://youtu.be/pCwBTNFmTXs?t=699

look at the video. they say you can install cooler of up to 190mm-195mm

I just checked the manual and it says max cpu cooler height is 180mm. so confusing and maybe It will fit as I saw another youtube video where the guy had a air540 with this cooler installed and it was just fine


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> The next question wont the fan ht the rear vrm or io port/covers or whatever you call them. I had a great deal of experience with a Thermalright silver arrow and that used to fit easily in my case but had to install 1 of the fans at the back side of cooler but was hitting the io port/covers (whatever you get what I mean) but I still managed to fit. I got rid of that cooler cause I had sli and sound card but now I'm going back to air cooling and this I can get for a really good deal here. Much better cooler than a hyper 212x.
> 
> https://youtu.be/pCwBTNFmTXs?t=699
> 
> look at the video. they say you can install cooler of up to 190mm-195mm
> 
> I just checked the manual and it says max cpu cooler height is 180mm. so confusing and maybe It will fit as I saw another youtube video where the guy had a air540 with this cooler installed and it was just fine


Please have look on those pics,I would say PH-TC14PE would fit in AIR 540

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Phanteks+PH-TC14PE+air540&safe=off&biw=2560&bih=1344&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiU56DZgILRAhWJLsAKHXFuC2QQ_AUIBygC#safe=off&tbm=isch&q=Phanteks+PH-TC14PE+air+540

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Please have look on those pics,I would say PH-TC14PE would fit in AIR 540
> 
> https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Phanteks+PH-TC14PE+air540&safe=off&biw=2560&bih=1344&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiU56DZgILRAhWJLsAKHXFuC2QQ_AUIBygC#safe=off&tbm=isch&q=Phanteks+PH-TC14PE+air+540
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks,Jura


I bought the cooling just waiting for it to arrive and will install. I suspect something wrong with my h100i cause it can't even cool a 4790k at stock 4.4ghz 1.2V. So hope this cooler will solve it and the noise on the h100i is so bad. Remember my silver arrow that I had the fans was so quiet.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I bought the cooling just waiting for it to arrive and will install. I suspect something wrong with my h100i cause it can't even cool a 4790k at stock 4.4ghz 1.2V. So hope this cooler will solve it and the noise on the h100i is so bad. Remember my silver arrow that I had the fans was so quiet.


Hi there

I've run too H100i v2 on i7-4790k at 4.5-4.6GHz and my temps has been in during the rendering in 70's and 4.7GHz OC has been possible but temps has been in 80's then I switched to X99 and i7-5820k and on that chip H100i has been unable cool my chip beyond 4.4GHz I've hit 72-76°C during the rendering and 4.5Ghz OC has been possible too but temps has been too high for my liking around 83°C, switched to NH-D15 and my temps are on 4.5Ghz are in 61-63°C during the rendering as max and finally I can run 4.6Ghz too and temps are still lower than with H100i at 4.4GHz

I would thought so you will have lower temps on yours at lot lower noise, H100i is noisy CLC

I would love to test that cooler on my X99 i7-5820k and would love to compare against NH-D15

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The next question wont the fan ht the rear vrm or io port/covers or whatever you call them. I had a great deal of experience with a Thermalright silver arrow and that used to fit easily in my case but had to install 1 of the fans at the back side of cooler but was hitting the io port/covers (whatever you get what I mean) but I still managed to fit. I got rid of that cooler cause I had sli and sound card but now I'm going back to air cooling and this I can get for a really good deal here. Much better cooler than a hyper 212x.
> 
> https://youtu.be/pCwBTNFmTXs?t=699
> 
> look at the video. they say you can install cooler of up to 190mm-195mm
> 
> 
> 
> I just checked the manual and it says max cpu cooler height is 180mm. so confusing and maybe It will fit as I saw another youtube video where the guy had a air540 with this cooler installed and it was just fine


I guess Corsair website has it wrong then. As you can see below it shows it as 170mm.


http://www.corsair.com/en-gb/carbide-series-air-540-high-airflow-atx-cube-case


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> I've run too H100i v2 on i7-4790k at 4.5-4.6GHz and my temps has been in during the rendering in 70's and 4.7GHz OC has been possible but temps has been in 80's then I switched to X99 and i7-5820k and on that chip H100i has been unable cool my chip beyond 4.4GHz I've hit 72-76°C during the rendering and 4.5Ghz OC has been possible too but temps has been too high for my liking around 83°C, switched to NH-D15 and my temps are on 4.5Ghz are in 61-63°C during the rendering as max and finally I can run 4.6Ghz too and temps are still lower than with H100i at 4.4GHz
> 
> I would thought so you will have lower temps on yours at lot lower noise, H100i is noisy CLC
> 
> I would love to test that cooler on my X99 i7-5820k and would love to compare against NH-D15
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Nice to hear. You make me just more excited to get the cooler. I did some research and the d15 and ph-tc14pe is just about 1-3C from each other. I can't wait to see how the temps will be with this cooler. My h100i is starting to annoy me


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Nice to hear. You make me just more excited to get the cooler. I did some research and the d15 and ph-tc14pe is just about 1-3C from each other. I can't wait to see how the temps will be with this cooler. My h100i is starting to annoy me


The NH-D15 is not a better cooler, it just has fans that move more air. Most of the tests comparing NH-D15 with NF-A15 1500rpm fan and PH-TC14PE are with older PH-F140HP fans. The newer PH-TC14PE comes with PH-F140HP_II fans and cool better.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The NH-D15 is not a better cooler, it just has fans that move more air. Most of the tests comparing NH-D15 with NF-A15 1500rpm fan and PH-TC14PE are with older PH-F140HP fans. The newer PH-TC14PE comes with PH-F140HP_II fans and cool better.


I didn't even know there was different revisions. Hope the new revision doesn't dissapoint.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Nice to hear. You make me just more excited to get the cooler. I did some research and the d15 and ph-tc14pe is just about 1-3C from each other. I can't wait to see how the temps will be with this cooler. My h100i is starting to annoy me


Hi there

I've tried several fans on H100i,I've tried like BeQuiet Silent Wings 2 or Pure Wings and still no difference(from later tests and mainly from Thermalbench reviews I found out BeQuiet makes nice fans but pretty useless for alu radiators like are Corsair or NZXT etc ) in temps

Here are screenshots of the H100i v2 on 5820k running 4.4GHz OC



And here is NH-D15 on 5820k running 4.5GHz OC





In both tests I've rendered similar render in 3DS MAX to test the performance

i would recommend to open in new tab pictures for better view there

Hope this helps and best of luck with yours Phanteks PH-TC14PE and looking forward on yours view on the Phanteks

Thanks,Jura


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> I've tried several fans on H100i,I've tried like BeQuiet Silent Wings 2 or Pure Wings and still no difference(from later tests and mainly from Thermalbench reviews I found out BeQuiet makes nice fans but pretty useless for alu radiators like are Corsair or NZXT etc ) in temps
> 
> Here are screenshots of the H100i v2 on 5820k running 4.4GHz OC
> 
> 
> 
> And here is NH-D15 on 5820k running 4.5GHz OC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In both tests I've rendered similar render in 3DS MAX to test the performance
> 
> i would recommend to open in new tab pictures for better view there
> 
> Hope this helps and best of luck with yours Phanteks PH-TC14PE and looking forward on yours view on the Phanteks
> 
> Thanks,Jura


That h100i does much worse than the Noctua


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> That h100i does much worse than the Noctua


jura11 results are not typical of H100. Normally with fans at full speed it is same as D15 .. but it is making 8 times as loud at 63dB compared to NH-D15 at 33dB or new PH-TC14PE at 36dB (human ear needs 3dB change to hear a difference).
Very quiet room is about 30-32dB, so 33dB is just loud enough to hear it. But 60dB is about the level of normal conversation .. meaning for someone to hear and understand what you are saying to them you need to be talking at about 66-70dB .. and 70dB is vacuum cleaner loud.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> jura11 results are not typical of H100. Normally with fans at full speed it is same as D15 .. but it is making 8 times as loud at 63dB compared to NH-D15 at 33dB or new PH-TC14PE at 36dB (human ear needs 3dB change to hear a difference).
> Very quiet room is about 30-32dB, so 33dB is just loud enough to hear it. But 60dB is about the level of normal conversation .. meaning for someone to hear and understand what you are saying to them you need to be talking at about 66-70dB .. and 70dB is vacuum cleaner loud.


Maube I'm sitting in the same boat as jura11. Maybe I will see a big gain in temps due to some thing being wrong. I laso have a huge scratch on the bottom of my h100i. also as if someone took a knife to it and think that's also why my h100i is performing so badly


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Maube I'm sitting in the same boat as jura11. Maybe I will see a big gain in temps due to some thing being wrong. I laso have a huge scratch on the bottom of my h100i. also as if someone took a knife to it and think that's also why my h100i is performing so badly


Yeah, at sailboat logo kind of boat








I wasn't sure if you knew and didn't want you (or others reading this) to think top tier air was as much better as jura11 experienced .. and to be clear that 240mm .. even 280mm CLCs have similar performance to top air, but are not as quiet .. and as the pumps wear their performance decreases. D15 has a cult following .. actually Noctua has a cult following, and some of it is for good reason. The make good products and have good support. But they are not any better than Phanteks and other top contenders.. and are higher priced most of the time.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yeah, at sailboat logo kind of boat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wasn't sure if you knew and didn't want you (or others reading this) to think top tier air was as much better as jura11 experienced .. and to be clear that 240mm .. even 280mm CLCs have similar performance to top air, but are not as quiet .. and as the pumps wear their performance decreases. D15 has a cult following .. actually Noctua has a cult following, and some of it is for good reason. The make good products and have good support. But they are not any better than Phanteks and other top contenders.. and are higher priced most of the time.


My h100i is a bit old now. About 3-4 years if I remember correctly. I've had it in many systems so installing and removing a lot. Lately even more trying to sort out my temps.

Thanks for the info. Called the courier today and I might have my product by tomorrow. I'm just a bit sad cause I wanted something else as well but yeah at least I have the cooler. I will see how it performs with stock cooler but do you recommend I change out the fans?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> My h100i is a bit old now. About 3-4 years if I remember correctly. I've had it in many systems so installing and removing a lot. Lately even more trying to sort out my temps.
> 
> Thanks for the info. Called the courier today and I might have my product by tomorrow. I'm just a bit sad cause I wanted something else as well but yeah at least I have the cooler. I will see how it performs with stock cooler but do you recommend I change out the fans?


I'm going to guess your new PH-TC14PE will have PH-F140HP II fans, so no reason to replace them. Even if it has the older PH-F140HP we are only talking a couple degrees difference .. hardly worth changing them. I would suggest making sure your case is flowing air to cooler that is only a few degrees warmer than room. 5th post in 'Ways to Better Cooling' linked in my sig.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm going to guess your new PH-TC14PE will have PH-F140HP II fans, so no reason to replace them. Even if it has the older PH-F140HP we are only talking a couple degrees difference .. hardly worth changing them. I would suggest making sure your case is flowing air to cooler that is only a few degrees warmer than room. 5th post in 'Ways to Better Cooling' linked in my sig.


my airflow is going to be as follows

Case = air 540

3x Cougar Vortex PWM front as intake
1x stock corsair af140L as exhaust at back

I might just add 2 more exhaust on top but only if my temps is bad or I can get a pretty good deal on some decent fans. I will see how it goes.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> my airflow is going to be as follows
> 
> Case = air 540
> 
> 3x Cougar Vortex PWM front as intake
> 1x stock corsair af140L as exhaust at back
> 
> I might just add 2 more exhaust on top but only if my temps is bad or I can get a pretty good deal on some decent fans. I will see how it goes.


Be careful of top exhaust. It often pulls the cool air going to CPU cooler out of case and this draws the heated air coming off of GPU up and into CPU cooler.


----------



## Himo5

Are there any instances where a top exhaust fan has been prevented from disrupting CPU cooling by blanking the top edge of the CPU heatsink?


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> jura11 results are not typical of H100. Normally with fans at full speed it is same as D15 .. but it is making 8 times as loud at 63dB compared to NH-D15 at 33dB or new PH-TC14PE at 36dB (human ear needs 3dB change to hear a difference).
> Very quiet room is about 30-32dB, so 33dB is just loud enough to hear it. But 60dB is about the level of normal conversation .. meaning for someone to hear and understand what you are saying to them you need to be talking at about 66-70dB .. and 70dB is vacuum cleaner loud.


Hi Doyll

I would agree my results are not typical,but what I've seen mostly reviews,there has been no testing any CPU cooler on i7-5820k,most of the people test these coolers like i7-4790k or 4770k etc,I think only Thermalbench tested coolers with 5960x,but mostly important everyone using highest core temps as their main temp,but on most CPU they should look at PKG or CPU socket which is more in my view important

Regarding the noise,right now running fans TY-143 at 1200RPM and still these fans are quieter than Noctua supplied fans and H100i with BeQuiet Silent Wings 2 I've run at 1200RPM mostly and this H100i has been very noisy plus pump noise I hated

Maybe difference in my case has been fans as I've used different fans

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> My h100i is a bit old now. About 3-4 years if I remember correctly. I've had it in many systems so installing and removing a lot. Lately even more trying to sort out my temps.
> 
> Thanks for the info. Called the courier today and I might have my product by tomorrow. I'm just a bit sad cause I wanted something else as well but yeah at least I have the cooler. I will see how it performs with stock cooler but do you recommend I change out the fans?


Hi there

Mine has been pretty new around 6 months old V2 version and I've been pretty disappointed with performance on i7-5820k

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> my airflow is going to be as follows
> 
> Case = air 540
> 
> 3x Cougar Vortex PWM front as intake
> 1x stock corsair af140L as exhaust at back
> 
> I might just add 2 more exhaust on top but only if my temps is bad or I can get a pretty good deal on some decent fans. I will see how it goes.


Hi there

Not sure,but I would try run top as intake which will bring the cold air closer to CPU,running same top as intake,tried too as exhaust and my temps has raised by 2-6C and regarding the using other fans,I like Phanteks fans,they perform really nicely and they're pretty quiet at 1000RPM and if you could find then TY-147A or TY-143,which I'm running on my NH-D15

Hope this helps and best of luck there:thumb:

Thanks,Jura


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi Doyll
> 
> I would agree my results are not typical,but what I've seen mostly reviews,there has been no testing any CPU cooler on i7-5820k,most of the people test these coolers like i7-4790k or 4770k etc,I think only Thermalbench tested coolers with 5960x,but mostly important everyone using highest core temps as their main temp,but on most CPU they should look at PKG or CPU socket which is more in my view important
> 
> Regarding the noise,right now running fans TY-143 at 1200RPM and still these fans are quieter than Noctua supplied fans and H100i with BeQuiet Silent Wings 2 I've run at 1200RPM mostly and this H100i has been very noisy plus pump noise I hated
> 
> Maybe difference in my case has been fans as I've used different fans
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks,Jura


TY-143 fans at full speed are moving almost twice as much air as stock fans and this usually means 4-8c better cooling. On PH-TC14PE I saw 4-6c better temps with TY-143 fans. Silver Arrow SB-E was same as H100 but 1/7th the noise. Silver Arrow SB-E Extremem (w/ TY-143 fans) was about 8c better than H100 at similar noise level.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> TY-143 fans at full speed are moving almost twice as much air as stock fans and this usually means 4-8c better cooling. On PH-TC14PE I saw 4-6c better temps with TY-143 fans. Silver Arrow SB-E was same as H100 but 1/7th the noise. Silver Arrow SB-E Extremem (w/ TY-143 fans) was about 8c better than H100 at similar noise level.


So i installed the cooler now. Must say nice looking cooler but still my cpu in Intel XTU runs 85C on the package and 1.2V (1.194 Actually) that's with fans on max. I have the new PH-F140HP II. They super quiet but don't think they push a lot of air as one might think. I use speedfan to control my front fans and the cpu fans now and must say awesome. Idle temps is about 320-40C. I'm using included thermal paste.

One thing I can say in real world gaming my temps is a bit lower I think will have to test again when imy ambient temps is at it hottest during the day but so far looks like it's a bit cooler. Earlier I was playing siege with fans spinning at +-450rpm or lower speed it can go. I forgot to setup speedfan properly and my cpu was going 70-75C when playing Rainbow six siege. then I set it up so that it goes 100% on 50C and then my temps actually dropped to about 65-70C max maybe spikes to 74C but only for a split second and only once or twice.

I'm starting to hate 4th gen cpu's. Still funny that my dads pc can do 4.6GHz 1.275V on silver arrow on low speed but that's a 4690k. I don't think a 4690k should be that much cooler anyway. I also delidded my cpu and used Cooler master mastergel nano between the heatspreaded and die


----------



## sweenytodd

Doyll is there any news from Phanteks giving out socket AM4 brackets for our coolers? Phanteks rep chime in please.


----------



## doyll

I've emailed my contact but have not heard back yet. With CES just ending I'm not surprised it is taking them a couple of days to reply.


----------



## Jalen

Doyll, seeing as you seem to know what you're talking about, just wondering what kind of improvement in sound/temps you think I'd get from changing fans/what kind of fans should I change to? I've had my tc14pe since September of 2013, so I certainly don't have any kind of new fan revision they may have put out.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jalen*
> 
> Doyll, seeing as you seem to know what you're talking about, just wondering what kind of improvement in sound/temps you think I'd get from changing fans/what kind of fans should I change to? I've had my tc14pe since September of 2013, so I certainly don't have any kind of new fan revision they may have put out.


Are your fans the original variable voltage fans or are the 2nd generation PWM fans? Both are decent fans. Do they seem to too noisy or not moving enough air? Or are just wanting to change fans?









What fans to get depends on what color / colors you want and what price is reasonable to you combined with what are available to you where you live on Earth. I used lots of TY-140, TY-147 and TY-147A fans not just because they are very good fans but because they were very reasonable priced .. like 5-7 GBP.


----------



## Jalen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Are your fans the original variable voltage fans or are the 2nd generation PWM fans? Both are decent fans. Do they seem to too noisy or not moving enough air? Or are just wanting to change fans?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What fans to get depends on what color / colors you want and what price is reasonable to you combined with what are available to you where you live on Earth. I used lots of TY-140, TY-147 and TY-147A fans not just because they are very good fans but because they were very reasonable priced .. like 5-7 GBP.


I believe they're the original variable voltage fans because they came with a 3 to 4 pin splitter. More or less just looking to see if there's room for improvement in the sound/performance departments.

Colors don't really matter. I live in the US, and after a quick, very unthorough search, I can't really find any of the thermalright fans you stated for less than $15-18.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jalen*
> 
> I believe they're the original variable voltage fans because they came with a 3 to 4 pin splitter. More or less just looking to see if there's room for improvement in the sound/performance departments.
> 
> Colors don't really matter. I live in the US, and after a quick, very unthorough search, I can't really find any of the thermalright fans you stated for less than $15-18.


You have the original fans. Upgrading will defintely not hurt and probalby give a little better performance .. more likely lower noise level than lower temps. T-14x series have became rather popular now so price is now back up to MSRP. When I was getting them at such low prices they were not well known or popular .. which is why I referred to them in past tense.









The new PH-F140HP II now being supplied on PH-TC14PE are quite good .. better then TY-147A or NF-A15 PWM 1500


I've compared them to TY-14x and find them about the same. Ph-F140HP II and PH-F140MP are same fan in different frames .. HP II is round, MP is square.









http://thermalbench.com/2015/10/31/thermalright-ty-147a-140mm-fan/3/

PH-F140HP II is stock fan on PH-TC14S cooler

http://www.coolingtechnique.com/recensioni/air-cooling/dissipatori/1581-recensione-phanteks-ph-tc12ls-e-ph-tc14s.html?start=5

TY-147A


Here is CoolingTechnique data comparing TY147A & PH-F140MP / PH-F140HP II


Here is CoolingTechnique NF-a14 & PH-F140MP / PH-F140HP II


http://www.coolingtechnique.com/recensioni/air-cooling/dissipatori/1619-recensione-thermalright-true-spirit-140-power.html?start=4

All have very similar test data.


----------



## Jalen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You have the original fans. Upgrading will defintely not hurt and probalby give a little better performance .. more likely lower noise level than lower temps. T-14x series have became rather popular now so price is now back up to MSRP. When I was getting them at such low prices they were not well known or popular .. which is why I referred to them in past tense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new PH-F140HP II now being supplied on PH-TC14PE are quite good .. better then TY-147A or NF-A15 PWM 1500
> 
> All have very similar test data.


This is excellent information to have. Thanks for the help!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jalen*
> 
> This is excellent information to have. Thanks for the help!


No problem!
Where on Earth are you located?


----------



## Jalen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No problem!
> Where on Earth are you located?


I'm in Michigan!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jalen*
> 
> I'm in Michigan!


PH-F140HP II are probably the best priced and arguable the best airflow/noise. Amazon has them for $13.50
https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Upgrade-High-Static-Pressire-PH-F140HP-BK2/dp/B00X5FZQBU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484910694&sr=8-1&keywords=ph-f140hp+ii

FYI, if you only use a single fan in middle of cooler the temperature difference at full load full speed is only about 2c. Most users would never notice a difference. 1 vs 2 fans at same speed is 1-3c, but 1 vs 2 fans is about 2-3dB difference is sound level, so a single fan can make up the difference in temperature by running 1-200rpm faster and cooler is same temperature at same sound level. Only time it is different is with CPU at 100% load with fans at 100%.


----------



## sweenytodd

Can you use Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra on this nickel-plated copper base cooler?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> Can you use Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra on this nickel-plated copper base cooler?


You can, but I have heard some horror stories about taking cooler back off after several months or a year. The nickel plating on cooler base helps, but 'liquid metal' TIMs are usually made of a high percentage of gallium in it .. and gallium does not play well with other metals. It bonds to them and makes it near impossible to clean off. Best case is it leave only a stain. Worst case is it bonds the cooler to IHS like glue. is getting 2c lower temps worth it to you? It's not worth it to me.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You can, but I have heard some horror stories about taking cooler back off after several months or a year. The nickel plating on cooler base helps, but 'liquid metal' TIMs are usually made of a high percentage of gallium in it .. and gallium does not play well with other metals. It bonds to them and makes it near impossible to clean off. Best case is it leave only a stain. Worst case is it bonds the cooler to IHS like glue. is getting 2c lower temps worth it to you? It's not worth it to me.


This. Exactly.


----------



## GlaringMistake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You have the original fans. Upgrading will defintely not hurt and probalby give a little better performance .. more likely lower noise level than lower temps.
> The new PH-F140HP II now being supplied on PH-TC14PE are quite good .. better then TY-147A or NF-A15 PWM 1500


I think SPCR might disagree with you seeing as the F140HP is one of the best fans they've tested.

They have also tested the F140HP II (on the PH-TC14S) and they did not seem to be very impressed.
In fact it was beaten by their reference fan, the Noctua NF-P14.

Now it may have an advantage to the F140HP where static pressure is more of a priority but while the PH-TC14S and PH-TC14PE have a similar fin thickness (0.41 mm vs 0.40 mm) the PH-TC14PE has more space between its fins than the PH-TC14S (2.21 mm vs 1.76 mm).
So if high static pressure didn't help it perform well with the PH-TC14S why should it do so with the PH-TC14PE?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GlaringMistake*
> 
> I think SPCR might disagree with you seeing as the F140HP is one of the best fans they've tested.
> 
> They have also tested the F140HP II (on the PH-TC14S) and they did not seem to be very impressed.
> In fact it was beaten by their reference fan, the Noctua NF-P14.
> 
> Now it may have an advantage to the F140HP where static pressure is more of a priority but while the PH-TC14S and PH-TC14PE have a similar fin thickness (0.41 mm vs 0.40 mm) the PH-TC14PE has more space between its fins than the PH-TC14S (2.21 mm vs 1.76 mm).
> So if high static pressure didn't help it perform well with the PH-TC14S why should it do so with the PH-TC14PE?


The HP are not the original fans, and not the fans doyll is referring to. The unit originally came with a different fan, 3-pin that was replaced by the HP.


----------



## GlaringMistake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The HP are not the original fans, and not the fans doyll is referring to. The unit originally came with a different fan, 3-pin that was replaced by the HP.


Ah, it was just that that picture made me think doyII was talking about the F140HP and not the first fan used on it, which I believe was the F140TS?
SPCR has not tested the F140TS on the PH-TC14PE or by itself so can't say how it would perform.
So the F140HP II may indeed perform better on the PH-TC14PE than the original fans.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GlaringMistake*
> 
> Ah, it was just that that picture made me think doyII was talking about the F140HP and not the first fan used on it, which I believe was the F140TS?
> SPCR has not tested the F140TS on the PH-TC14PE or by itself so can't say how it would perform.
> So the F140HP II may indeed perform better on the PH-TC14PE than the original fans.


When I said 'original' I was referring to the PH-F140HP. My bad. Most people don't know / remember the PH-F140TC.








I don't understand why SPCR has PH-F140TC and PH-F140HP listed ans PH-F140HP/TC. They are not the same fan .. not same impeller, not same housing, not same motor mount support frame .. simply not the same fan.
The original PH-F140TC (3-pin variable voltage) impeller was somewhat different from PH-F140HP (PWM) impeller, but the motor support braces changed from straight to curved (give better sound profile) and virbraton pads were changed to 'O'-rings around mounting holes.


PH-F140TC


PH-F140HP


I replaced the TC fans on my original PH-TC14PE the 2nd day I had cooler because they were not PWM, and the included PWM adapter didn't give a low enough idel speed. I used TY-140 fans then changed to TY-143 fans when they came out .. because the red on TY-143 matched the red on my PH-TC14PE

Could you link me to their review and tests? The only thing I find is http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1346-page6.html and it does not have any TY-14x fans in the testing, but the TY-150 .. which is a 150mm fan with different mounting hole spacing (105x124.5mm vs 105x105mm) and different impeller design then TY-140, 143, 147, 149, etc.
TY-150


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GlaringMistake*
> 
> Ah, it was just that that picture made me think doyII was talking about the F140HP and not the first fan used on it, which I believe was the F140TS?
> *SPCR has not tested the F140TS on the PH-TC14PE or by itself so can't say how it would perform.*
> So the F140HP II may indeed perform better on the PH-TC14PE than the original fans.


I did that test. Published an article and testing on a fairly large website. But, it wasn't SPCR, so.......


----------



## GlaringMistake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> When I said 'original' I was referring to the PH-F140HP. My bad. Most people don't know / remember the PH-F140TC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't understand why SPCR has PH-F140TC and PH-F140HP listed ans PH-F140HP/TC. They are not the same fan .. not same impeller, not same housing, not same motor mount support frame .. simply not the same fan.
> The original PH-F140TC (3-pin variable voltage) impeller was somewhat different from PH-F140HP (PWM) impeller, but the motor support braces changed from straight to curved (give better sound profile) and virbraton pads were changed to 'O'-rings around mounting holes.


I know, if you're used to testing fans you should notice that it is the HP and not the TS.
But in this case it wasn't really SPCR that goofed but Phanteks.
Quoting from SPCR: ""HP" is displayed on the box but "TS" is on the label and on the website".

In fact if you zoom in on this picture you can see that it says TS on the back despite that it is the HP: http://www.silentpcreview.com/files/images/fans-2013-140a/phanteks4.jpg
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Could you link me to their review and tests? The only thing I find is http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1346-page6.html and it does not have any TY-14x fans in the testing, but the TY-150 .. which is a 150mm fan with different mounting hole spacing (105x124.5mm vs 105x105mm) and different impeller design then TY-140, 143, 147, 149, etc.
> TY-150


They haven't tested the HP II, TY-140 fans or the HP entirely in the same way so it can be difficult to make an apples to apples comparison but here are the reviews that are available of them on SPCR anyway:

HP II: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1438-page8.html

TY-140: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1279-page5.html

HP: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1291-page5.html and http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page4.html


----------



## doyll

@GlaringMistake I think you should stop trying to justify your and SPCR's statement. You started out saying SPCR might not agree with me ..

But you have supplied nothing that can in any way support that claim.

your attempts to qualify / disqualify that original statement have gone down hill so fast it looks like you fell of a cliff.

As for SPCR calling the PH-F140HP a PH-F140HP / TC, the logical thing to would have been for Lawrence Lee (the reviewer) to contact Phanteks and clarify what the fan model actually was.
My first test samples of PH-F140HP had old TC label too, but I emailed Phanteks and found out the label was wrong.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @GlaringMistake I think you should stop trying to justify your and SPCR's statement. You started out saying SPCR might not agree with me ..
> 
> But you have supplied nothing that can in any way support that claim.
> 
> your attempts to qualify / disqualify that original statement have gone down hill so fast it looks like you fell of a cliff.
> 
> As for SPCR calling the PH-F140HP a PH-F140HP / TC, the logical thing to would have been for Lawrence Lee (the reviewer) to contact Phanteks and clarify what the fan model actually was.
> My first test samples of PH-F140HP had old TC label too, but I emailed Phanteks and found out the label was wrong.


My pre-release test samples of the HP had no model listing on them at all, if I recall correctly. But......I didn't review them for SPCR, so it really doesn't matter.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> My pre-release test samples of the HP had no model listing on them at all, if I recall correctly. But......I didn't review them for SPCR, so it really doesn't matter.


it's not uncommon to receive 'pre-release' samples that do not have labels or proper model labels on them. I prefer to test production release fans, but to be honest I have not found the pre-release samples to perform any different than production retail ones of same model did.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> it's not uncommon to receive 'pre-release' samples that do not have labels or proper model labels on them. I prefer to test production release fans, but to be honest I have not found the pre-release samples to perform any different than production retail ones of same model did.


I'd like to believe you, but I'll need to check with SPCR.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> I'd like to believe you, but I'll need to check with SPCR.


If you do, please let me know .. maybe by the 2nd Tuesday of next week?.


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> When I said 'original' I was referring to the PH-F140HP. My bad. Most people don't know / remember the PH-F140TC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't understand why SPCR has PH-F140TC and PH-F140HP listed ans PH-F140HP/TC. They are not the same fan .. not same impeller, not same housing, not same motor mount support frame .. simply not the same fan.
> The original PH-F140TC (3-pin variable voltage) impeller was somewhat different from PH-F140HP (PWM) impeller, but the motor support braces changed from straight to curved (give better sound profile) and virbraton pads were changed to 'O'-rings around mounting holes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PH-F140TC
> 
> 
> PH-F140HP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I replaced the TC fans on my original PH-TC14PE the 2nd day I had cooler because they were not PWM, and the included PWM adapter didn't give a low enough idel speed. I used TY-140 fans then changed to TY-143 fans when they came out .. because the red on TY-143 matched the red on my PH-TC14PE


Responding to the last point first, there was a dispute about the TY143 Red some time ago on this thread after I posted a badly exposed image of it, so here's my correction to that with my apologies - although the color coordination is still slightly off.



Now getting to my question, I have a Gold Edition PH-TC14PE, which has 3-pin RPM fans in PH-F140HP frames without indents on the fin edges; and having found a source for some HP fans I am interested in the idea of replacing the impeller in the PWM version with the gold impeller from the RPM version - I don't suppose the 9 fin pre-PWM impeller would perform well with the HP-II motor.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Responding to the last point first, there was a dispute about the TY143 Red some time ago on this thread after I posted a badly exposed image of it, so here's my correction to that with my apologies - although the color coordination is still slightly off.
> 
> 
> 
> Now getting to my question, I have a Gold Edition PH-TC14PE, which has 3-pin RPM fans in PH-F140HP frames without indents on the fin edges; and having found a source for some HP fans I am interested in the idea of replacing the impeller in the PWM version with the gold impeller from the RPM version - I don't suppose the 9 fin pre-PWM impeller would perform well with the HP-II motor.


That's a good color balance photo.










I don't think the impellers can be changed for motor hub to motor hub .. I don't understand why you would want to do it .. is it because you want the gold colored impeller?

I think painting the impellers in a couple PH-F140HP_II fans would be easier to do.


----------



## Himo5

Yes, I've always wanted to use those white/gold fans if they'd been PWM and had a little more performance and I got the Gold Edition for an A88X-Pro build in the first place to complement the red XBR build. This really messed up my Xmas presents last year.

Are you sure there would be any difficulty with the impellers in the HP frames, after all, the only difference in the impellers is the gold paint.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Yes, I've always wanted to use those white/gold fans if they'd been PWM and had a little more performance and I got the Gold Edition for an A88X-Pro build in the first place to complement the red XBR build. This really messed up my Xmas presents last year.
> 
> Are you sure there would be any difficulty with the impellers in the HP frames, after all, the only difference in the impellers is the gold paint.


Am I 100% sure, no. But I am 99.9999% sure it would be extremelyhard to do ..if it is even at all possible.
I do not believe it is feasible to remove your old TC style impeller and put it into an MP fan housing. The impeller center hub is an integral part of the motor housing. I do not know of way to remove the impeller/,motor unit from the motor shaft .like some fans can be. And even if you could, I doubt their motor shafts are the same.


----------



## Himo5

They're not TC impellers, not having the indents on the fin edges and using HP-like frames with the curved supports. The Gold Edition fans seem to be a transition between the original models and the HP PWM versions, that's what I hadn't picked up before I saw the recent activity on this thread.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> They're not TC impellers, not having the indents on the fin edges and using HP-like frames with the curved supports. The Gold Edition fans seem to be a transition between the original models and the HP PWM versions, that's what I hadn't picked up before I saw the recent activity on this thread.


It seems something is getting lost in translation. As fare as I know Phanteks used 3 impeller designs on their 140mm cooler fans. The original TC with bigger tabs/airlfow alignment thingies on the blades, then the HP blades had smaller alignment thingies or groves, and none on the MP blade except outer lip. There are 2 basic housings used; first had straight motor frame braces and 2 stick-on vibaration pads for the corners and later ones have curved motor frame braces and 'O'ring vibration pads around screw holes. As far as I know you cannot change fan impellers from any ofther to any other fan.
Gold edition fan compared to PH-F140HP
 

The look like the same fan except for impeller being gold plated.


----------



## Himo5

Well this looks like Design Number Four:


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Well this looks like Design Number Four:


Had not seen that combo before. Must have been between original TC non-pwm and later PWM fans? Is that red one PWM?


----------



## Himo5

No, that's a genuine original TC. My guess is the Gold Edition was to signal a new phase in their fan development but they hadn't got the new motors in stock in time. Hardly likely they would develop a seperate design to both the TC and HP lines for just one item - that's why I hope the impellers will be compatible.

New development: I just ordered White/White fans from Newegg through their international shipping policy during which my order for HPs from one of their Chinese sources slipped through as an order for HP IIs. So it looks like I'm either going to make an HP impeller work on an an HP II frame or be faced with the challenge of having to copy the glorious paint job Phanteks did on these mavericks.


----------



## Metalhead79

Just ordered one of these coolers today. I'm currently using a Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 Power, which has been great, but I've decided I want to push my i5-4670k to the ragged edge of stability and I don't want to invest in a proper custom watercooling loop (I'm currenlty modding a 2015 Mustang and if I'm spending hundreds of dollars, it's going to go fast parts, not the computer







). I'm a Thermalright fanboy at heart and I was initially looking at the SA IB-E, but I found the PH-TC14PE for $25 less and since it performs roughly the same, I decided to take this route.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metalhead79*
> 
> Just ordered one of these coolers today. I'm currently using a Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 Power, which has been great, but I've decided I want to push my i5-4670k to the ragged edge of stability and I don't want to invest in a proper custom watercooling loop (I'm currenlty modding a 2015 Mustang and if I'm spending hundreds of dollars, it's going to go fast parts, not the computer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I'm a Thermalright fanboy at heart and I was initially looking at the SA IB-E, but I found the PH-TC14PE for $25 less and since it performs roughly the same, I decided to take this route.


Wile be interesting to see how much difference you find between TRUE Spirit 140 Power nad PH-TC14PE. A couple of high-performance fans (like TY-143) will give 5-8c cooler temps .. assuming your case has similar high performance airlfow .. but comes at a price, much much louder.


----------



## Metalhead79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Wile be interesting to see how much difference you find between TRUE Spirit 140 Power nad PH-TC14PE. A couple of high-performance fans (like TY-143) will give 5-8c cooler temps .. assuming your case has similar high performance airlfow .. but comes at a price, much much louder.


Yeah, the 140 Power is a really good cooler. However, at 4.6ghz it wasn't keeping temps where I'm comfortable, so I'm hoping the PH-TC14PE will keep them in line.

I'm working on airflow in the case, have a pair of PH-140MP fans coming. I'll be using them as intake. I've pulled the HDD cages out of my Define R4 so there's no obstruction to airflow inside the case.

........and yes, I have read 'ways to better cooling' many times! It has helped me tremendously.

I have unrealistic goals. Massive performance while still being quiet. If I can hear it from 6-7 feet away it's too loud.


----------



## superchad

I am debating about getting some BitFenix Spectre Pro 140mm fans for my TC14PE, anyone used these fans with this cooler? they have both higher static pressure and higher airflow (though they are louder due to higher RPM). I want to push my OC a bit more

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835345070


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superchad*
> 
> I am debating about getting some BitFenix Spectre Pro 140mm fans for my TC14PE, anyone used these fans with this cooler? they have both higher static pressure and higher airflow (though they are louder due to higher RPM). I want to push my OC a bit more
> 
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835345070


What fans are on your PH-TC14PE? 3 or 4 different fans have been used over the years.

Also, those fans cannot be mounted on Ph-TC14PE with the stock fan clips.


----------



## superchad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What fans are on your PH-TC14PE? 3 or 4 different fans have been used over the years.
> 
> Also, those fans cannot be mounted on Ph-TC14PE with the stock fan clips.


I just have the 2x fans it came with when i bought it in 2014 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709011

the new fans need to be white or white and black as black and white is the color theme of my build

I am aware they can't be mounted with the stock fan clips, at least not without modding the fans.


----------



## Metalhead79

I got this installed last night and, huh, it doesn't seem to provide lower load temps in stress testing than my True Spirit 140 Power. I guess the 6x8mm heatpipes on the TS 140P really make it a standout cooler.

Still, I'm happy with it. It looks great, though it was smaller than I'd thought it would be. At full speed it's much louder, but I set up my PWM fan curve so it's silent during normal gaming. The downside is that now I'm thinking about a tempered glass case so I can show it off.....


----------



## dirtyred

I'm planning to go for 4.8-5 GHz with my 7700K. Could anyone post his 7700K (non-delidded) overclocked temperatures and Vcore settings with this cooler with RealBench or some other stress test? If it's not much to ask also in a pull configuration (fan in middle and on the back of the 2nd tower).


----------



## demon09

anyone here know if the i just ran the middle fan would the total height be lower than 171mm? as the schematics makes it look like the fan could go down lower. I am looking at this or the nh-d15s as my inwin 303 does not have the most clearance for cpu coolers there probably no way it would work with the side fan even if i had low profile ram. I'd be happy if i could fit this in over the d15s as this thing looks much nicer. thanks in advance


----------



## Himo5

On the PH-TC14PE you can replace the big mounting plate thumbscrew with one of the screws that come with an optical drive, which gives you and extra 8-9mm.


----------



## demon09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> On the PH-TC14PE you can replace the big mounting plate thumbscrew with one of the screws that come with an optical drive, which gives you and extra 8-9mm.


not quite seeing how that would give me 9mm less of cooler height? As wouldn't it still only go down far enough to be flush on the heatspreader of the cpu. Oh shoot I see what you mean the middle mounting screw could be replaced and allow the fan to slide down deeper


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dirtyred*
> 
> I'm planning to go for 4.8-5 GHz with my 7700K. Could anyone post his 7700K (non-delidded) overclocked temperatures and Vcore settings with this cooler with RealBench or some other stress test? If it's not much to ask also in a pull configuration (fan in middle and on the back of the 2nd tower).


At a guess a 7700K at those speeds will be 130-170w heat .. maybe 200w. PH-TC14PE is good to about 300w with air at or near room ambient.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demon09*
> 
> anyone here know if the i just ran the middle fan would the total height be lower than 171mm? as the schematics makes it look like the fan could go down lower. I am looking at this or the nh-d15s as my inwin 303 does not have the most clearance for cpu coolers there probably no way it would work with the side fan even if i had low profile ram. I'd be happy if i could fit this in over the d15s as this thing looks much nicer. thanks in advance


What Himo5 said. PH-TC14PE is 161mm to top of cooler. With thumb screw replaced with normal screw the fan will fit flush with top of cooler. Using a single fan instead of two fans is maybe 1-2c difference is cooling ability .. same as NH-D15 and NH-D15S .. same coolers except for heatpipes formed to different shape to offset base so it will clear PCIe sockets. Why Noctua even relesed the NH-D15 instead of offset base NH-D15S a mystery because other like Thermalright had offset the base a couple years before on their wide coolers. Basically any cooler with fins more than 70mm center CPU toward PCIe sockets is in serious risk of blocking PCIe sockets. PH-TC14PE is 70mm center CPU toward PCIe sockets.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demon09*
> 
> not quite seeing how that would give me 9mm less of cooler height? As wouldn't it still only go down far enough to be flush on the heatspreader of the cpu. Oh shoot I see what you mean the middle mounting screw could be replaced and allow the fan to slide down deeper


The cooler is not 171mm tall .. it is 161mm tall. The cooler with fans centered on fin pack is 171mm tall.


----------



## dirtyred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> At a guess a 7700K at those speeds will be 130-170w heat .. maybe 200w. PH-TC14PE is good to about 300w with air at or near room ambient.
> What Himo5 said. PH-TC14PE is 161mm to top of cooler. With thumb screw replaced with normal screw the fan will fit flush with top of cooler. Using a single fan instead of two fans is maybe 1-2c difference is cooling ability


Thank you, that's more then enough info I needed. Never knew what termal power should I be considering. AnandTech checked a few coolers including the Phanteks on a thermal testing platform with thermal load between 60-300 W and on 200 W the core delta temperature was only 18 degrees. This indeed give more than enough headroom for overclocking, hopefully even with a worse than average 7700K chip.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dirtyred*
> 
> Thank you, that's more then enough info I needed. Never knew what termal power should I be considering. AnandTech checked a few coolers including the Phanteks on a thermal testing platform with thermal load between 60-300 W and on 200 W the core delta temperature was only 18 degrees. This indeed give more than enough headroom for overclocking, hopefully even with a worse than average 7700K chip.


I think AnandTech do a decent job of testing. At least it done using cooler intake air temp versus heat being pushed into cooler base. They say
"The absolute thermal resistance defines the absolute performance of a heatsink by indicating the temperature rise per unit of power, in our case in degrees Celsius per Watt (°C/W). In layman's terms, if the thermal resistance of a heatsink is known, the user can assess the highest possible temperature rise of a chip over ambient by simply multiplying the maximum thermal design power (TDP) rating of the chip with i."

That means very little because we have no accurate way of knowing how much heat we will be putting into cooler because if we are overclocking the TDP rating is being exceeded dramatically. For example, an i7 6700 is rated 94w TDP stock .. It produces 94w of heat stock .. but what is it producing when we overclock it?


----------



## dirtyred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> That means very little because we have no accurate way of knowing how much heat we will be putting into cooler because if we are overclocking the TDP rating is being exceeded dramatically. For example, an i7 6700 is rated 94w TDP stock .. It produces 94w of heat stock .. but what is it producing when we overclock it?


I know that my 7700K can produce enough heat to boil an egg if no other methods are available. Multipurpose CPU FTW!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dirtyred*
> 
> I know that my 7700K can produce enough heat to boil an egg if no other methods are available. Multipurpose CPU FTW!


How do you know this? Seems it would be serious abuse of 7700K to me


----------



## dirtyred

TjMax is 100 °C. Water boils on 100 °C sealevel and on 99.5 °C where I live. Can't be a coincidence.


----------



## Metalhead79

I'm trying to stress test my [email protected] with 1.3v vcore. With the fans on high, it instantly shoots up to 98c+ in Linpack and Prime95. Aida64 only hits a max of 81c.

Do Haswell chips simply produce to much heat for even a dual tower CPU cooler? I've checked to make sure it's mounted correctly and I checked the TIM when I mounted it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metalhead79*
> 
> I'm trying to stress test my [email protected] with 1.3v vcore. With the fans on high, it instantly shoots up to 98c+ in Linpack and Prime95. Aida64 only hits a max of 81c.
> 
> Do Haswell chips simply produce to much heat for even a dual tower CPU cooler? I've checked to make sure it's mounted correctly and I checked the TIM when I mounted it.


LOL!

I5-4670K is rated 94 watt TDP .. that means it produces 94w of heat stock. Most any cooler (even low cost 120mm fan ones) will cool 94 watts.

I don't know what is stock voltage turbo mode is at 3.8GHz .. I would guess about 0.9V-1.2V .. That is very different than when you push it to 4.6GHz and 1.3v.


----------



## demon09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> At a guess a 7700K at those speeds will be 130-170w heat .. maybe 200w. PH-TC14PE is good to about 300w with air at or near room ambient.
> What Himo5 said. PH-TC14PE is 161mm to top of cooler. With thumb screw replaced with normal screw the fan will fit flush with top of cooler. Using a single fan instead of two fans is maybe 1-2c difference is cooling ability .. same as NH-D15 and NH-D15S .. same coolers except for heatpipes formed to different shape to offset base so it will clear PCIe sockets. Why Noctua even relesed the NH-D15 instead of offset base NH-D15S a mystery because other like Thermalright had offset the base a couple years before on their wide coolers. Basically any cooler with fins more than 70mm center CPU toward PCIe sockets is in serious risk of blocking PCIe sockets. PH-TC14PE is 70mm center CPU toward PCIe sockets.
> The cooler is not 171mm tall .. it is 161mm tall. The cooler with fans centered on fin pack is 171mm tall.


thanks for confirming this you guys are awesome gonna go for the phantec over the nh-d15s


----------



## Metalhead79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> LOL!
> 
> I5-4670K is rated 94 watt TDP .. that means it produces 94w of heat stock. Most any cooler (even low cost 120mm fan ones) will cool 94 watts.
> 
> I don't know what is stock voltage turbo mode is at 3.8GHz .. I would guess about 0.9V-1.2V .. That is very different than when you push it to 4.6GHz and 1.3v.


Not sure what your point is. This CPU hasn't been at stock clocks/volts since I built this rig almost 3 years ago. Hell, if I was at stock I'd be using the stock Intel cooler. I've been at [email protected] vcore for a long time.
I've read a lot of Haswell overclocking guides and Z87 overclocking guides. I've been building my own custom rigs and overclocking them since 2001. I'm just an enthusiast, I'm not knowledgeable on the level you and others on this site are, so I depend on the information posted to make informed decisions on the parts I buy.

I'm just curious if the temps at 1.3v are typical with this cooler or if I need to re-recheck my mounting. Like I said, AIDA64 shows reasonable temps and runs forever without any issues. Just when I stress test in Linpack and Prime95 it goes through the roof.


----------



## dirtyred

I'm more and more tempted to get a black one of this for my 7700K but I just stumbled upon the Silver Arrow ITX-R and I really like the black finish on it (much nicer than the IB-E red-orange fans). Sadly can't really find a trustworthy comparison of the two.

This one shows 1 degree difference compared to Noctua NH-D15: https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Thermalright/Silver_Arrow_ITX/6.html

This one shows 4 degrees: https://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/thermalright_silver_arrow_itx_review/6

And as far as I know the Phanteks is about the same as the Noctua.


----------



## demon09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metalhead79*
> 
> Not sure what your point is. This CPU hasn't been at stock clocks/volts since I built this rig almost 3 years ago. Hell, if I was at stock I'd be using the stock Intel cooler. I've been at [email protected] vcore for a long time.
> I've read a lot of Haswell overclocking guides and Z87 overclocking guides. I've been building my own custom rigs and overclocking them since 2001. I'm just an enthusiast, I'm not knowledgeable on the level you and others on this site are, so I depend on the information posted to make informed decisions on the parts I buy.
> 
> I'm just curious if the temps at 1.3v are typical with this cooler or if I need to re-recheck my mounting. Like I said, AIDA64 shows reasonable temps and runs forever without any issues. Just when I stress test in Linpack and Prime95 it goes through the roof.


sounds pretty normal difference prime causes about 1xc kinda difference on my delided 7700k. If you run fPU only its temps are pretty close to linpack and prime


----------



## Metalhead79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demon09*
> 
> sounds pretty normal difference prime causes about 1xc kinda difference on my delided 7700k. If you run GPU only its temps are pretty close to linpack and prime


Ah ok, I've been stressing using CPU/FPU/Cache in AIDA64. My RAM isn't overclocked, so I don't bother stressing it. Am I pretty much at the max I can do at 4.4ghz? I can't safely stress if temps are in the high 90's. When playing games my CPU sits in the low-mid 40's.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metalhead79*
> 
> Not sure what your point is. This CPU hasn't been at stock clocks/volts since I built this rig almost 3 years ago. Hell, if I was at stock I'd be using the stock Intel cooler. I've been at [email protected] vcore for a long time.
> I've read a lot of Haswell overclocking guides and Z87 overclocking guides. I've been building my own custom rigs and overclocking them since 2001. I'm just an enthusiast, I'm not knowledgeable on the level you and others on this site are, so I depend on the information posted to make informed decisions on the parts I buy.
> 
> I'm just curious if the temps at 1.3v are typical with this cooler or if I need to re-recheck my mounting. Like I said, AIDA64 shows reasonable temps and runs forever without any issues. Just when I stress test in Linpack and Prime95 it goes through the roof.


From what I know of the 4670K you are pushing it quite hard, so it's kinda hard to know what the temps 'should' be. I'm sure you know the higher a CPU is pushed above stock the higher / wider the voltage and temperature ranges go.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dirtyred*
> 
> I'm more and more tempted to get a black one of this for my 7700K but I just stumbled upon the Silver Arrow ITX-R and I really like the black finish on it (much nicer than the IB-E red-orange fans). Sadly can't really find a trustworthy comparison of the two.
> 
> This one shows 1 degree difference compared to Noctua NH-D15: https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Thermalright/Silver_Arrow_ITX/6.html
> 
> This one shows 4 degrees: https://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/thermalright_silver_arrow_itx_review/6
> 
> And as far as I know the Phanteks is about the same as the Noctua.


Both TechPowerUp and OC3D are not testing / comparing cooler perform against each other coolers. They are testing / comparing how their test system performs with different coolers. Case airflow (and airflow temp) change when coolers are changed, cooler fan speed changes, etc. Airflow into cooler can change 4-15c quite easily. When testing in a case it is even more important to monitor cooler intake air temp at same time CPU temp is recorded.

I have a Silver Arrow ITX and it's a good little cooler, but is not as good or quiet others we have been discussing.

PH-TC14PE, NH-D15 / NH-D15S, Silver Arrow (all but IT-X), etc. are all about the same up to about 250 watts .. which is about all we normally push our CPUs.


----------



## demon09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metalhead79*
> 
> Ah ok, I've been stressing using CPU/FPU/Cache in AIDA64. My RAM isn't overclocked, so I don't bother stressing it. Am I pretty much at the max I can do at 4.4ghz? I can't safely stress if temps are in the high 90's. When playing games my CPU sits in the low-mid 40's.


dang auto correct I ment to type fpu but it corrects to gpu


----------



## doyll

Silver Arrow ITX is 154 mm wide and 77mm center CPU toward PCIe socket. It is basically a Silver Arrow SB-E with the outer-most heatpipes removed.


Silver Arrow SB-E


Silver Arrow IB-E is offset so only 68mm center CPU toward PCIe sockets.


----------



## Metalhead79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> From what I know of the 4670K you are pushing it quite hard, so it's kinda hard to know what the temps 'should' be. I'm sure you know the higher a CPU is pushed above stock the higher / wider the voltage and temperature ranges go.
> 
> Both TechPowerUp and OC3D are not testing / comparing cooler perform against each other coolers. They are testing / comparing how their test system performs with different coolers. Case airflow (and airflow temp) change when coolers are changed, cooler fan speed changes, etc. Airflow into cooler can change 4-15c quite easily. When testing in a case it is even more important to monitor cooler intake air temp at same time CPU temp is recorded.
> 
> I have a Silver Arrow ITX and it's a good little cooler, but is not as good or quiet others we have been discussing.
> 
> PH-TC14PE, NH-D15 / NH-D15S, Silver Arrow (all but IT-X), etc. are all about the same up to about 250 watts .. which is about all we normally push our CPUs.


Correct. 4.6ghz on a 4670k is pushing the limit of the chip.

I had intended to get a Silver Arrow IB-E, but I saw your posts saying the PH-TC14PE/D15/SA IB-E all perform roughly the same and the Phanteks ws $25 cheaper, so I went with that. I'm happy with it, even if it doesn't blow the doors off my TRUE Spirit 140 Power.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demon09*
> 
> dang auto correct I ment to type fpu but it corrects to gpu


I thought you meant CPU. It's all good. I'll mess around more this weekend with the OC.


----------



## dirtyred

Too bad the Silver Arrow IB-E and SB-E don't come with black anodized finish and fan case like the ITX version. Maybe I'm just too obsessed with black. Would be interesting to see how the ITX performs with other fans like PH-F140MP/HP or TY 147 A/B and 149 in terms of noise and temperatures especially with dual fans (seems like they give an extra pairs of fan brackets).


----------



## Genericuser1

I have a 4670k at 4.2 what are your settings for the 4,4 OC? I also thought Prime was an issue for Haswell processors? I only tried it once and my temps got too hot for my taste I haven' tried it since.


----------



## Metalhead79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Genericuser1*
> 
> I have a 4670k at 4.2 what are your settings for the 4,4 OC? I also thought Prime was an issue for Haswell processors? I only tried it once and my temps got too hot for my taste I haven' tried it since.


Sounds like what I'm dealing with, I can't stress test in Prime95, it just gets insane temps. I normally use Intel Burn Test for stress testing, but haven't for my 4.6ghz OC. I might try it tonight. I like AIDA64 becuase it doesn't make temps go insane.

I'll look at my settings and post them tonight after I get home. It wasn't anything crazy to get there.

Edit: Did some googling and it looks like Prime95 v28.5 causes extreme heat on Haswell CPU's due to it's AVX implementation. Apparently running earlier versions doesn't cause this issue and shows temps 10c+ lower.


----------



## Genericuser1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metalhead79*
> 
> Sounds like what I'm dealing with, I can't stress test in Prime95, it just gets insane temps. I normally use Intel Burn Test for stress testing, but haven't for my 4.6ghz OC. I might try it tonight. I like AIDA64 becuase it doesn't make temps go insane.
> 
> I'll look at my settings and post them tonight after I get home. It wasn't anything crazy to get there.


Thanks I've been wanting to bump it up but wanted to see some stable settings posted.

4.2 has been running well for 3 years now but it could use a bit more.


----------



## Metalhead79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Genericuser1*
> 
> Thanks I've been wanting to bump it up but wanted to see some stable settings posted.
> 
> 4.2 has been running well for 3 years now but it could use a bit more.


I think I started at 4.2ghz, then went to 4.4ghz and now I'm working on 4.6ghz. This is over an almost 3 year period. Kind of the last hurrah for the chip since I'll be moving to Ryzen sometime in the next year. Not that I NEED an 8c/16t chip, but if I can get one......why wouldn't I?


----------



## Genericuser1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metalhead79*
> 
> I think I started at 4.2ghz, then went to 4.4ghz and now I'm working on 4.6ghz. This is over an almost 3 year period. Kind of the last hurrah for the chip since I'll be moving to Ryzen sometime in the next year. Not that I NEED an 8c/16t chip, but if I can get one......why wouldn't I?


Yeah I want to get a bit more out of mine, stable 4,4ghz would be fine for me and then I'll do a big upgrade in 1-2 years.


----------



## Metalhead79

Gigabyte G1.Sniper Z5S
16gb (8x2) Mushkin Blackline DDR3 2400mhz

RING multiplier is x34

VRIN LoadLine Calibration = Turbo
VRIN External Overrid = 1.700v
CPU vCore = 1.235
Offset = 0
RING Voltage = 1.115
Ring Voltage offset = 0
System Agent Voltage = Auto
I/O Analog Voltage = Auto
I/O Digital Voltage = Auto

I don't know if these numbers are good, bad, or indifferent but this has worked for me.

On a side note, Intel Burn Test also uses AVX for it's stress testing. So, I tried Aida64 using FPU Stress for 45 minutes at [email protected] and hit a max of 88c. I'll do more thorough testing over the next few days, but so far it's looking good. I think airflow is good in the case, my GPU idle temps didn't budge at all during the stress test.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metalhead79*
> 
> Correct. 4.6ghz on a 4670k is pushing the limit of the chip.
> 
> I had intended to get a Silver Arrow IB-E, but I saw your posts saying the PH-TC14PE/D15/SA IB-E all perform roughly the same and the Phanteks ws $25 cheaper, so I went with that. I'm happy with it, even if it doesn't blow the doors off my TRUE Spirit 140 Power.


TRUE Spirit 140 Power is in the same group. If you want more cooler you could try TY-143 fans, but you would need to up your case airflow to match .. and they do get noisy from 1500rpm on up .. and by 2500rpm. they are as loud as H100i and other at full speed.


----------



## Metalhead79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> TRUE Spirit 140 Power is in the same group. If you want more cooler you could try TY-143 fans, but you would need to up your case airflow to match .. and they do get noisy from 1500rpm on up .. and by 2500rpm. they are as loud as H100i and other at full speed.


I hate noise. I do not want to hear my computer at all. Ever. So faster fans aren't going to happen, lol. It's crazy that a single tower cooler with 6x8mm heatpipes can compete with dual tower coolers. I have no regrets, though. I gave my TS 140P to a friend who is in desperate need of a new CPU cooler.

I've got my system where I want it now. It's quiet and cool. It's virtually inaudible at idle and while running games it's just audible. For a system with a heavily overclocked 4670k and an R9 Fury, I think that's pretty good.

I'm still dialing in my CPU at 4.6ghz, but had no stability issues last night. I used HW64Info to monitor while I played Mass Effect Andromeda and saw 48c as average temp on the hottest core. That's 1c, maybe 2c, higher than the average temps at 4.4ghz, so I think it's good considering the large voltage jump needed for 4.6ghz. It's still a low enough temperature for the CPU fans to stay silent.

All in all, while the PH-TC14PE isn't an upgrade in cooling power versus the TS 140P I had, I'm more than happy with it. It's doing exactly what I need it to do and I like the look of a dual tower cooler with three fans (yeah, I added the optional third fan - because I could). I also like that all the fins are black as opposed to just the top on the TS 140P.


----------



## superchad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What fans are on your PH-TC14PE? 3 or 4 different fans have been used over the years.
> 
> Also, those fans cannot be mounted on Ph-TC14PE with the stock fan clips.


so if i can mount 122cfm 2.8mm static pressure Bitfenix Spectre Pro 140mm fans would they be better temps than the stock fans?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superchad*
> 
> so if i can mount 122cfm 2.8mm static pressure Bitfenix Spectre Pro 140mm fans would they be better temps than the stock fans?


I asked questions and got no answers. Therefore I will not answer questions either.


----------



## superchad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I asked questions and got no answers. Therefore I will not answer questions either.


I did answer those questions that you asked me, see below

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superchad*
> 
> I just have the 2x fans it came with when i bought it in 2014 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709011
> 
> the new fans need to be white or white and black as black and white is the color theme of my build
> 
> I am aware they can't be mounted with the stock fan clips, at least not without modding the fans.


that was back on page 268


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superchad*
> 
> I did answer those questions that you asked me, see below
> that was back on page 268


Wow! You answered my question a week before I asked it. With powers like that you should know the answer without even asking me a question.


----------



## superchad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Wow! You answered my question a week before I asked it. With powers like that you should know the answer without even asking me a question.


No, i answered your question when you first replied, you never replied back


----------



## demon09

Anyone who has this cooler would there be any benefit to adding a Phanteks PH-F120SP_RLED on the ram side as the stock 140mm makes it to tall for my case so I am currently just running the middle fan. If the temp difference would be very small I will just live with it


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demon09*
> 
> Anyone who has this cooler would there be any benefit to adding a Phanteks PH-F120SP_RLED on the ram side as the stock 140mm makes it to tall for my case so I am currently just running the middle fan. If the temp difference would be very small I will just live with it


Marginal improvement - couple of degrees at load. Larger difference at idle more likely.

Do you have space to mount the 140 on the rear tower? That can be as good as front tower mounting with the benefit of improving exhaust flow - bernoulli effect. That's the method I've used where front tower mounting was constrained. Do you have space to mount an intake fan directly inline with the cooler? A clean intake flow combined with the rear tower mounted 140 can deliver lower temps or at least match conventional twin tower fan mounting.


----------



## demon09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> Marginal improvement - couple of degrees at load. Larger difference at idle more likely.
> 
> Do you have space to mount the 140 on the rear tower? That can be as good as front tower mounting with the benefit of improving exhaust flow - bernoulli effect. That's the method I've used where front tower mounting was constrained. Do you have space to mount an intake fan directly inline with the cooler? A clean intake flow combined with the rear tower mounted 140 can deliver lower temps or at least match conventional twin tower fan mounting.


hmm might buy a magnetic filter and turn my rear exhaust fan into an intake and mount the other 140mm on the rear part.the huge i.o armor on this Mobo may stop me from doing that.but It's doing pretty good with one fan ATM 7700k at 4.9ghz is idling around 29-31c depending on amibent temps.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demon09*
> 
> hmm might buy a magnetic filter and turn my rear exhaust fan into an intake and mount the other 140mm on the rear part.the huge i.o armor on this Mobo may stop me from doing that.but It's doing pretty good with one fan ATM 7700k at 4.9ghz is idling around 29-31c depending on amibent temps.


Uh-oh...didn't mean to incite you to become an airflow rebel - reversing the course of cooling tradition.









What case and video card for this rig? What are the temps at load? Doing nothing at all can sometimes be better than doing too much.


----------



## demon09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> Uh-oh...didn't mean to incite you to become an airflow rebel - reversing the course of cooling tradition.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What case and video card for this rig? What are the temps at load? Doing nothing at all can sometimes be better than doing too much.


my case is kinda weird it's an inwin 303 all intake comes from the bottom and three top exhaust fans spin slowly. Load temps are pretty low so may just leave it be as Intel burn test hit like 75c at maximum RAM usage. Running a evga 1080ti Fe I was able to get threw step up


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demon09*
> 
> my case is kinda weird it's an inwins 303 all intake comes from the bottom and three top exhaust fans spin slowly. Load temps are pretty low so may just leave it be as Intel burn test hit like 75c at maximum RAM usage


Oh a bottom feeder case. LOL! Like my Silverstone FT05, but without the 90 degree MB realignment. Those temps aren't horrible for a 7700k at 4.9, unless it's delidded.

However for fun and science, could run some dryer ducting from one of the bottom intake fans upto the cooler and compare. Or get one of those glass cutters and... no...don't do that. Definitely wouldn't suggest turning the exhaust into intake with this case tho.


----------



## demon09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> Oh a bottom feeder case. LOL! Like my Silverstone FT05, but without the 90 degree MB realignment. Those temps aren't horrible for a 7700k at 4.9, unless it's delidded.
> 
> However for fun and science, could run some dryer ducting from one of the bottom intake fans upto the cooler and compare. Or get one of those glass cutters and... no...don't do that. Definitely wouldn't suggest turning the exhaust into intake with this case tho.


it is delided but the avx in Intel burn test makes it firey like no one's business. Normal use it barely even gets warm adia 64 CPU stress sees it hit 57c so normal 100% load it stays very quiet. Before the delid like many others were seeing the 7700k is quiet the firey beast


----------



## MicroCat

Oh 75c in AVX2, but 57c in normal humane peak loads. That's great! No need to do anything more.

Although....a shiny aluminum foil dryer duct snaking its way from the bottom of the case up to the cooler could look pretty cool, in a nerdy ghetto way.


----------



## demon09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> Oh 75c in AVX2, but 57c in normal humane peak loads. That's great! No need to do anything more.
> 
> Although....a shiny aluminum foil dryer duct snaking its way from the bottom of the case up to the cooler could look pretty cool, in a nerdy ghetto way.


ya the 74-75c is in that crazy avx in Intel burn test Aida 64 does similar if you just run fpu . My room temps this time of year don't help either lol 75-78f during the day. Lol might find my self some good looking car intake duct that matches my builds colors or something


----------



## superchad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Wow! You answered my question a week before I asked it. With powers like that you should know the answer without even asking me a question.


so are you going to answer the question i was originally asking?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demon09*
> 
> Anyone who has this cooler would there be any benefit to adding a Phanteks PH-F120SP_RLED on the ram side as the stock 140mm makes it to tall for my case so I am currently just running the middle fan. If the temp difference would be very small I will just live with it


If you really want the extra couple of degrees cooling you could mount the 2nd fan on the back of 2nd fin pack and mount the middle fan on front fin pack so fans are pulling air through each fin pack instead of pushing. But like MicroCat said, your temps are good now .. no reason to change anything.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superchad*
> 
> so are you going to answer the question i was originally asking?


You seem to think I owe you an answer. don't owe you anything and I take offence to your posting attitude. On an average day I probably answer 30-70 questions. I messed up and didn't answer you more than a week ago .. then when I asked again instead of simply answering my question a second time you get in my face .. making it sound as if you were entitled to an answer from me. I am under no obligation to post an answer to you or anyone else.
I expect you and anyone else who asked for help to be nice and polite .. you obviously were not

Against my better judgement I will give you the benefit of doubt and answer, but if your attitude does not change you will not get another answer from me.

At a guess your original fans are the 3-pin variable voltage fans or little newer PWM fans .. which work just fine. If you want different fans get the new PH-F14HP_II.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superchad*


----------



## superchad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You seem to think I owe you an answer. don't owe you anything and I take offence to your posting attitude. On an average day I probably answer 30-70 questions. I messed up and didn't answer you more than a week ago .. then when I asked again instead of simply answering my question a second time you get in my face .. making it sound as if you were entitled to an answer from me. I am under no obligation to post an answer to you or anyone else.
> I expect you and anyone else who asked for help to be nice and polite .. you obviously were not
> 
> Against my better judgement I will give you the benefit of doubt and answer, but if your attitude does not change you will not get another answer from me.
> 
> At a guess your original fans are the 3-pin variable voltage fans or little newer PWM fans .. which work just fine. If you want different fans get the new PH-F14HP_II]


I figured that you had missed my first so i asked again, i did not mean to be rude, I had asked a question, you asked me a question and i responded with no reply back so i just brought it back up since it had been a while figuring it was overlooked, i appologize if it seemed rude.

anyways I want to upgrade so i can push my Ryzen 7 1700X a little further, it already gets almost near overheating with the stock fans and any Phanteks fans seem to be not much better, the Bitfenix fans have much higher static pressure and airflow hence why i picked them, only concern is they have more blockage over the heatsink.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superchad*
> 
> so are you going to answer the question i was originally asking?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superchad*
> 
> I figured that you had missed my first so i asked again, i did not mean to be rude, I had asked a question, you asked me a question and i responded with no reply back so i just brought it back up since it had been a while figuring it was overlooked, i appologize if it seemed rude.
> 
> anyways I want to upgrade so i can push my Ryzen 7 1700X a little further, it already gets almost near overheating with the stock fans and any Phanteks fans seem to be not much better, the Bitfenix fans have much higher static pressure and airflow hence why i picked them, only concern is they have more blockage over the heatsink.


What is the air temp going into cooler when you are stress testing? Have case airflow setup to supply coolers with air as close to room ambient is critical .. and most case airflow is lucky to supply cooler with air 8-12c warmer than room. "Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig, might be of interest. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. 5th is a good place to start.


----------



## SpyMaster

Hi, just fitted the PH-TC14PE CPU COOLER - BLACK to cool my new Ryzen build. 1700x, Crosshair VI, G.SKILL F4-3200C14D-16GFX, installed in a Coolermaster Haf X

Was a breeze to install, i had ordered the AM4 mounting bracket to allow fitting to the Crosshair VI using the AM4 back plate but this only mounts the cooler vertically in my case. Ended up using the mountings from the original AMD mounting brackets and these fitted the AM4 back plate to allow a horizontal fit. I've included a few pics...

HWINFO 5.51-3155 for stock showing TDIE as min 27c and Max 42, Using Aida 64 to Stress cores.

http://imgur.com/39mHhpS

http://imgur.com/HrhFHdL

http://imgur.com/HQpbAgO


----------



## seanpatrick

Quote:


> Hi, just fitted the PH-TC14PE CPU COOLER - BLACK to cool my new Ryzen build. 1700x, Crosshair VI, G.SKILL F4-3200C14D-16GFX, installed in a Coolermaster Haf X
> 
> Was a breeze to install, i had ordered the AM4 mounting bracket to allow fitting to the Crosshair VI using the AM4 back plate but this only mounts the cooler vertically in my case. Ended up using the mountings from the original AMD mounting brackets and these fitted the AM4 back plate to allow a horizontal fit. I've included a few pics...
> 
> HWINFO 5.51-3155 for stock showing TDIE as min 27c and Max 42, Using Aida 64 to Stress cores.


Hey that's good info! I wonder if that means my old Phanteks PH-TC14CS will mount properly, the mounting solution looks exactly the same..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpyMaster*
> 
> Hi, just fitted the PH-TC14PE CPU COOLER - BLACK to cool my new Ryzen build. 1700x, Crosshair VI, G.SKILL F4-3200C14D-16GFX, installed in a Coolermaster Haf X
> 
> Was a breeze to install, i had ordered the AM4 mounting bracket to allow fitting to the Crosshair VI using the AM4 back plate but this only mounts the cooler vertically in my case. Ended up using the mountings from the original AMD mounting brackets and these fitted the AM4 back plate to allow a horizontal fit. I've included a few pics...
> 
> HWINFO 5.51-3155 for stock showing TDIE as min 27c and Max 42, Using Aida 64 to Stress cores.
> 
> http://imgur.com/39mHhpS
> 
> http://imgur.com/HrhFHdL
> 
> http://imgur.com/HQpbAgO


Nice looking system, and great temps.








Those brackets look like they have slotted hole for both old AM spacing and new AM4 spacing.


----------



## SpyMaster

When I originally opened the box and read the leaflet I assumed the bracket was am3 and fm2 mountings, I then checked out the am4 bracket I ordered and test fitted it to the back plate and realised it was only mounting vertically which is not the best orientation for air flow. Started looking around on Google images for examples of it being fitted in am4. Never found anything other than the stock pick of the am4 plate which divides into 4 sub images. It was then realised or it at least looked as though the smaller of the 2 brackets on the am4 pic was one included in the box and not with the am4 kit. The small bracket was test fitted to my back plate and worked.

2 cut along story short with the model I received a couple of weeks ago it included in the box the necessary fittings to allow the cooler to mount horizontal using the Am4 back plate. Ipaid £48 approx from overclockers.co.uk a bargain if you ask me considering it performs just as well as noctua d15 and similar styled coolers. Asphetically looks great as well unlike the yukky brown and beige one.

Hopefully the pictures show it fits well, just sad I loose I pciex slot from the width of the cooler but it's worth it.


----------



## demon09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpyMaster*
> 
> When I originally opened the box and read the leaflet I assumed the bracket was am3 and fm2 mountings, I then checked out the am4 bracket I ordered and test fitted it to the back plate and realised it was only mounting vertically which is not the best orientation for air flow. Started looking around on Google images for examples of it being fitted in am4. Never found anything other than the stock pick of the am4 plate which divides into 4 sub images. It was then realised or it at least looked as though the smaller of the 2 brackets on the am4 pic was one included in the box and not with the am4 kit. The small bracket was test fitted to my back plate and worked.
> 
> 2 cut along story short with the model I received a couple of weeks ago it included in the box the necessary fittings to allow the cooler to mount horizontal using the Am4 back plate. Ipaid £48 approx from overclockers.co.uk a bargain if you ask me considering it performs just as well as noctua d15 and similar styled coolers. Asphetically looks great as well unlike the yukky brown and beige one.
> 
> Hopefully the pictures show it fits well, just sad I loose I pciex slot from the width of the cooler but it's worth it.


+1 on that bought this over the nh-d15 also as the color looked a lot better then silver and brown


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demon09*
> 
> +1 on that bought this over the nh-d15 also as the color looked a lot better then silver and brown


And it cools just as well as D15 does without covering everything 76mm toward PCIe socket.


----------



## dirtyred

I've got myself this beast as well instead of the Silver Arrow or D15 mostly because it was black. Mostly I'm satisfied with it but I have somewhat mixed feelings. I've expected a bit more from this cooler especially the fans.

The PH-F140HP II that came with are loud, drone starting from around 1000 RPM that gets a bit better at around 1400 RPM. At 1600 RPM droning is not that prominent, the wind noise covers it.

The performance is much better than my previous Arctic Freezer i32, mostly because it's twice the size (if not more). Still, not what I've expected. According to many people this is equivalent to the D15 in terms of performance. According to ASUS they managed to pump 1.32 Vcore into the 7700K and peak temperature was 78 ºC during RealBench stress test and without delidding. I can't get near that at all.

I have multi on 48x at 1.25 V (mostly 1.248 V, some peaks to 1.264 V), Package power on 80 W, IA cores power on 77 W. With fans running on maximum speed my peak temperature is 84 ºC and the average around 78 ºC. If I pump 1.32 Vcore into it for 5 GHz it's really close to 100 ºC, mostly around 92-96 ºC. Opening the side and front panel, taking air filter off on my Define C helps about 3 ºC at most so I ruled out bad airflow.

I don't know why is this huge difference. Maybe the TIM is much worse than on the CPU that they used. Maybe my mounting is wrong. I have no idea.

Anyhow, I was thinking about switching out those fans to something more silent. Can't find anywhere some old PH-F140HP fans that had such a great reputation on SPCR. Noctua fans are ugly. So I'm thinking about the PH-F140XP which is really similar to the old PH-F140HP by specs and looks, hoping that they sound just as good. My other choise would be some TY-147 (A/B), I know @doyll really likes them and they seem to be really good from every aspect, even the colours (unlike other TY and Noctua fans). The price is my only concers, wish they'd be a bit cheaper as I'd buy 4-5.

My question is how much static pressure do you think this heatsink needs? Doesn't seem to be very dense. Maybe more airflow and less static pressure?

Front intake: 1x Fractal Design Dynamic X2 GP-12 (case stock fan), 1x Arctic F12
Rear exhaust: 1x Fractal Design Dynamic X2 GP-12
On the front of the block another Arctic F12. @doyll was suspecting it would hurt performance because not enough airflow and static pressure compared to the PH fans but actually helps by 1-2 °C. It seems to be a decent fan.

Here are some pictures:


----------



## doyll

@dirtyred, have you monitored your cooler intake air temp when stress testing? It is not uncommon quite common for the air temp going into cooler to be 10-20c warmer than room air, especially when system is working hard. It can get even higher when GPU also working hard. is working hard.







I apologize if I've said this to you before.


----------



## dirtyred

You don't have to apologize, you're giving good advices! I did not monitor air intake as I did not find any suitable sensors yet, only some wireless crap but I want one with a cable probe so I can close the door and actually see the readings.

I don't think the air intake is that much hotter than the room temperature as the temperatures drop only by a couple of degrees when I completely open the case (front, side, top) and 2 fans are blowing air on full speed: the Arctic F12 at 53 CFM and the X2 GP-12 at 52.3 CFM unobstructed. The rear case fan is also a X2 GP-12 so it can't take away all the blown out air of the PH fan but the excess air gets pushed to the side/rear around the fan. Also the temperature increase to 77-78 °C is not over time but pretty much instant and after that it stabilizes and doesn't go over it (only some peaks to 80-84 °C), so it's not like the warm air is trapped and heats everything up slowly. So I'd expect that an open case would pretty much mitigate the issue of recirculation (if there's any).

Anyhow, any fan replacement suggestions? Maybe a 12 cm as well for the front of the tower?


----------



## SpyMaster

The case looks similar to the h440 I have in my wifes build, to improve airflow in that case I put a pair of 140mm phantek high pressure fans in the front, and currently have 3 120mm corsair high static pressure fans in the roof, rear is the standard 140mm that came with the case.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dirtyred*
> 
> You don't have to apologize, you're giving good advices! I did not monitor air intake as I did not find any suitable sensors yet, only some wireless crap but I want one with a cable probe so I can close the door and actually see the readings.
> 
> I don't think the air intake is that much hotter than the room temperature as the temperatures drop only by a couple of degrees when I completely open the case (front, side, top) and 2 fans are blowing air on full speed: the Arctic F12 at 53 CFM and the X2 GP-12 at 52.3 CFM unobstructed. The rear case fan is also a X2 GP-12 so it can't take away all the blown out air of the PH fan but the excess air gets pushed to the side/rear around the fan. Also the temperature increase to 77-78 °C is not over time but pretty much instant and after that it stabilizes and doesn't go over it (only some peaks to 80-84 °C), so it's not like the warm air is trapped and heats everything up slowly. So I'd expect that an open case would pretty much mitigate the issue of recirculation (if there's any).
> 
> Anyhow, any fan replacement suggestions? Maybe a 12 cm as well for the front of the tower?


Have you looked on ebay? Try using "digital wired indoor outdoor thermometer" in ebay search. Here in Europe I can order from China / Taiwan and have things in 7-10 days even when it says 2-3 weeks. Not sure what delivery time would be for you.

"Unobsturcted" being the key word. X2 GP12 are okay but only if there is almost no resistance. They are only rated 0.88mm H2O at full speed. All the fans I use are rating about twice that.







Open case is usually at least a cooler, but I've seen thing run hotter several times too.

Fan suggestions depends on availability and price. I always use fans with higher pressure ratings. It makes a big difference, especially at lower rpm levels. The static pressure rating of a fan is the pressure level it reaches when it stops moving any air at all. Static = Stopped.







A fan rated 52.3cfm and 0.88mmh2o at 1200rpm is maybe 30cfm and .5mmh2o at 700rpm.
A fan rated 50cfm and 1.7mmh2o at 1200rpm is maybe 35cfm and 1.2mmh2o at 700rpm
Same fan is probably 25cfm and .8mmh2o at 400rpm.
If your case intakes are 0.5mmh2o of restriction your fans are moving no air at 700rpm, but the 50cfm and 1.70mmh2o fan is still moving a lot of air .. even at 400rpm it's still has moving a little air.

I prefer front to back flow as much as possible .. and I often use high enough pressure rated fans that exhaust fans are not needed. If I use an exhaust fan it is usually to get airflow path that better flow cool air to component rather than increasing airflow.

Edit: What SpyMaster said. A couple of PH-F140SP would probably do the job.


----------



## dirtyred

Yeah I noticed that the Fractal fans barely move any air even unobstructed while the Arctic fans are blowing good at any RPM while being silent and only audible above 850 RPM while being pleasant. Incredible performance by this fan at less than half the price of PH, TY, Noctua fans.

My choises so far:


PH-F140XP (similar to SP but it has 4 pins, higher pressure and more airflow while same noise on paper) - 18 EURO
TY-147A (10 less CFM then the Phanteks, no official data on pressure, but 0.08 - 1.56 according to this) - 13.5 EURO
Noctua NF-P14r redux-1500 (more static pressure than Phanteks, a bit less airflow) - 15.5 EURO
Maybe more Arctic F12/F14? Better airflow through radiator than Noctua F12 and P12 according to this - 6.1 EURO

All these 3 seem to be rougly the same category in terms of airflow and pressure and also price, Phanteks being the most expensive and Thermalright the cheapest. At 4-5 fans the price difference is pretty significant, almost the price of 2 more fans between TY and PH.

What are your thoughts about these? Any other recommendations for similar price, performance and especially noise (preferably even less) with good sound signature (no droning, buzzing, clicking)?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dirtyred*
> 
> Yeah I noticed that the Fractal fans barely move any air even unobstructed while the Arctic fans are blowing good at any RPM while being silent and only audible above 850 RPM while being pleasant. Incredible performance by this fan at less than half the price of PH, TY, Noctua fans.
> 
> My choises so far:
> 
> 
> PH-F140XP (similar to SP but it has 4 pins, higher pressure and more airflow while same noise on paper) - 18 EURO
> TY-147A (10 less CFM then the Phanteks, no official data on pressure, but 0.08 - 1.56 according to this) - 13.5 EURO
> Noctua NF-P14r redux-1500 (more static pressure than Phanteks, a bit less airflow) - 15.5 EURO
> Maybe more Arctic F12/F14? Better airflow through radiator than Noctua F12 and P12 according to this - 6.1 EURO
> 
> All these 3 seem to be rougly the same category in terms of airflow and pressure and also price, Phanteks being the most expensive and Thermalright the cheapest. At 4-5 fans the price difference is pretty significant, almost the price of 2 more fans between TY and PH.
> 
> What are your thoughts about these? Any other recommendations for similar price, performance and especially noise (preferably even less) with good sound signature (no droning, buzzing, clicking)?


Problem with those tests / reviews is they are with fans at full speed .. and we use them at lower speeds 99.9% of the time.








TY-147A are a very good fan. 0.08mmH2O @ 300rpm and 1.56mmH2O at 1300rpm is official. .
Cooling Technique testing:

Here is PH-F140SP and TY-147A Lower is Better .. and do keep in mind the TY-147A is 141x151 with 105mm mounting holes (120mm fan mounting holes).


----------



## dirtyred

Yeah, I've seen a few comparisons and it seems that the Phanteks and Thermalright are nearly identical in most situations. 120 mm mountings are perfect because they are more versatile especially because of the brackets of the cooler so I could mount them either as replacements for the cooler or as case fans.

The PH-F140SP and TY-147A are pretty much exact copies with minor differences. I compared the TY-147A @ 12V vs the NF-P14r @ 9V at same airflow and pretty much the same static pressure. I do prefer much more how the TY 147A sounds, much cleaner unlike the slight buzzing of the Noctua.

I did find some really cheap thermometer: http://www.gearbest.com/temperature-control/pp_425721.html even cheaper: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10002337/1169400-digital-compact-1-5-lcd-thermometer-with-outdoor. Not sure how accurate but +/- 5 °C is still acceptable I guess.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dirtyred*
> 
> Yeah, I've seen a few comparisons and it seems that the Phanteks and Thermalright are nearly identical in most situations. 120 mm mountings are perfect because they are more versatile especially because of the brackets of the cooler so I could mount them either as replacements for the cooler or as case fans.
> 
> The PH-F140SP and TY-147A are pretty much exact copies with minor differences. I compared the TY-147A @ 12V vs the NF-P14r @ 9V at same airflow and pretty much the same static pressure. I do prefer much more how the TY 147A sounds, much cleaner unlike the slight buzzing of the Noctua.
> 
> I did find some really cheap thermometer: http://www.gearbest.com/temperature-control/pp_425721.html. Not sure how accurate but +/- 5 °C is still acceptable I guess.


Just be careful that the 151mm wide round sides are not a problem .. although if they are the can be cut down to 141mm
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/20_20#post_23389814

I'm probably not understanding you. While F140SP and TY-147A have similar performance. they are very different fans .. different housing, different impeller design, etc.

That cheap thermometer will work just fine. At that price you could get 2 of them.







I like using one with both 'indoor' and 'outdoor' showing so I can see what room and cooler intake temps both are at a glance, but that's not a big deal. I would wrap a layer of electrical tape on the metal sensor so if it happens to touches motherboard or GPU PCB there is no chance of is shorting out anything.


----------



## dirtyred

My bad, I looked at some pictures but they are indeed different looking. Only the performance is similar. The TY-147A's size shouldn't be an issue especially on the radiator. That's the most important fan to replace as it's annoyingly loud and buzzy (HP II). As for case fans I will measure the case or just cut the fans if needed. Or will go with the Phanteks for that.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dirtyred*
> 
> My bad, I looked at some pictures but they are indeed different looking. Only the performance is similar. The TY-147A's size shouldn't be an issue especially on the radiator. That's the most important fan to replace as it's annoyingly loud and buzzy (HP II). As for case fans I will measure the case or just cut the fans if needed. Or will go with the Phanteks for that.


Is the HP 'buzzy' motor or impeller? I've seen fan impeller to surface distance cause noise many times. I made 8mm spacers to use between fan and what it's mounted. This solves noise issues about half the time .. noise from thin impeller blades .. or cooler/radiator fins / grills, etc. They also solve many harmonic noise issues.







Might be worth a try.

I have used TY-140 / TY-147 / TY-147A for case fans many times. I usually use a PWM splitter or hub with PSU power to control their speed with CPU and often GPU PWM signal. Here' link to more info if you are interested.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22319246


----------



## dirtyred

This is exactly how it sounds (same HP II fan):




Starting around 1000 RPM it gets noisy. I guess it's motor noise. On the cooler tower sounds pretty much the same only a bit more pronounced. I can distinguish 2 different noises: the air whoosh which isn't that annoying and that buzzing noise which can be heard from the other room as well in the night when there's not much background noise (quiet neighbourhood, no cars).

Btw the HP fan fits perfectly on the Define C's front and still have some room so the TY-147A fans should be fine as well, only 6 mm wider on both sides. Too bad it's expensive over here ($15.2) as I'd buy at least 4, maybe 5 (2 for cooler, 2 intake & 1 exhaust). Found it on some chinese sites that Thermalright recommends for half the price but registration drives me crazy even with Chrome's translate (75% is not translated).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dirtyred*
> 
> This is exactly how it sounds (same HP II fan):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting around 1000 RPM it gets noisy. I guess it's motor noise. On the cooler tower sounds pretty much the same only a bit more pronounced. I can distinguish 2 different noises: the air whoosh which isn't that annoying and that buzzing noise which can be heard from the other room as well in the night when there's not much background noise (quiet neighbourhood, no cars).
> 
> Btw the HP fan fits perfectly on the Define C's front and still have some room so the TY-147A fans should be fine as well, only 6 mm wider on both sides. Too bad it's expensive over here ($15.2) as I'd buy at least 4, maybe 5 (2 for cooler, 2 intake & 1 exhaust). Found it on some chinese sites that Thermalright recommends for half the price but registration drives me crazy even with Chrome's translate (75% is not translated).


I can hear kind of a 'rattle' sound starting at just over 9v (cc1000rpm), then as voltage goes up I hear the buzz .. very pronounced at 11v . I can hear harmonics in that video too. I wouldn't test with fan setting on table / bench top. Fan sound / vibrations transmitted to top tend to be amplified thereby changing fan's actual sound.

Good to know they will fit.

@Shneiky just installed TY-147A fans onto his R1 Ultimate cooler. If you are interested here's link to his thoughts
http://www.overclock.net/t/1461923/cryorig-fan-cooler-club-r1-ult-r1-uni-c1-h5-xf140-xt140/3260_20#post_26106671


----------



## dirtyred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I can hear kind of a 'rattle' sound starting at just over 9v (cc1000rpm), then as voltage goes up I hear the buzz .. very pronounced at 11v . I can hear harmonics in that video too. I wouldn't test with fan setting on table / bench top. Fan sound / vibrations transmitted to top tend to be amplified thereby changing fan's actual sound.
> 
> Good to know they will fit.
> 
> @Shneiky just installed TY-147A fans onto his R1 Ultimate cooler. If you are interested here's link to his thoughts
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1461923/cryorig-fan-cooler-club-r1-ult-r1-uni-c1-h5-xf140-xt140/3260_20#post_26106671


Well, then both of us hear the same thing, not just me. I'm terribly disappointed in these fans. There were a few things that got me to chose this over Thermalright or other brands. Not just the looks but also the good review on SPCR. The product page also states PH-F140HP Premium Fans. What's premium about these?! The price? The airflow and static pressure?! Any idiot can make a fan that pushes alot of air and it's loud at the same time. I think I will write a letter to Phanteks, tell them how disappointed I am and hope that they have a few old HP fans in stock.

The more TY fans I see in reviews the more convinced I am that those are the perfect ones. Price is comparable to Noctua / Phanteks and even less, they sound better and performance is comparable. @doyll I think you were the one who said that knows a place where they sell them at good price. But maybe it was @becks talking about Noctua industrial fans. Too tired now to remember. So, do you know by chance a good place where they are cheap and also send them by regular cheap post service? I really don't want to pay $15 for each in Hungary.


----------



## doyll

Sorry, I don't know of any good prices out there right now except in USA on ebay. There is someone there selling them for $10 or best offer each, but with shipping added that is still more than the prices you are looking at.


----------



## dirtyred

I will somehow register myself on one of those chinese resellers and if they have Registered Airmail shipping method the price should still be below $10 each and in that case I wouldn't have to pay for VAT either.


----------



## dirtyred

I'm giving up on finding TY-147A's cheaper than $15 as everywhere in Europe it's the same price. The cheaper option would be the TY 149 but they are also louder so not really worth it. Instead I was thinking on maybe putting some more sound dampening foam in the Define C case. Obviously only to the side (2 cm) and maybe top panels (1 cm) which is a much cheaper solution than to replace 2 140 mm fans. After a quick search I've found some really cheap 100x100x2 cm foam which would be enough for the whole case and costs only $6.

The sound aborbance efficiency starts to peak at around 800 Hz, mostly where the HP II fans are emitting noise. What do you think about this solution @doyll?


----------



## doyll

My experience with trying to muffle / dampen fan noise is it's very hard to do because the sound is coming out of the vents and there is no easy way to deal with it without loosing airflow.

What is the price of TY-149 fans?

What are shipping costs for UK to HU?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> My experience with trying to muffle / dampen fan noise is it's very hard to do because the sound is coming out of the vents and there is no easy way to deal with it without loosing airflow.
> 
> What is the price of TY-149 fans?
> 
> What are shipping costs for UK to HU?


Noise dampening material does help to a degree, in the same way carpet will deaden sound in a room. It doesn't solve the problem, but it can help a bit.


----------



## dirtyred

Yeah, I was thinking about the noise leakage but still most of it might be absorbed as I can hear them through the side panel as well and the fans are not right at the edge of the case but around 4 cm (rear) and 10 cm (middle) inside. Would not put sound dampening in the way of the airflow (front and rear).

The TY-149 is around $11.6 while the TY-147A is around $15.2, the difference is $3.6. I checked amazon.co.uk but it's even more expensive (the SQ one) or roughly the same price so didn't even check the shipping costs.

I'm designing my home office room and I was thinking about making a PC shelf / box below the table with sound dampening on the sides, top and maybe even bottom to hopefully reduce noise even more.


----------



## hagal

I was hoping that someone might be able to give me some advice or point me in the right direction as one of the fans on my PH-TC14 cooler is on its way out ( you have to keep flicking it to start it spinning ) and it needs replacing. The fans which are on it are the old PH-F140TS fans and I am hoping to replace them with a proper PWM controlled set of fans.

The fans that I have been looking at so far are:

1.Phanteks PH-F140HP II ( having trouble getting them as have been told they are no longer available ).
2.Thermaltake TY-143 ( easy fit and good power but does not match colour of computer but will use at a pinch ).
3.Noctua NF-A15 PWM ( will use but would like a fan with a bit more grunt plus colour will not match).
4.Noctua NF-A14 PWM ( more power than the A15 but have to mod the fan mounts to fit plus colour will not match).
5.Noctua NF-P14r PWM ( easy fit will colour match and cheap ).
6.Noctua NF-A14 industrial PPC-3000 PWM ( much more power not to bad colour but have to mod fan mounts to fit ).

Are there any other fans I should be looking at and which fan would be better suited to my rig. Also as far as noise goes as long as the fan is not to loud at idle ( when surfing ), noise is not to much of a problem as the processor only gets stressed when gaming.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hagal*
> 
> I was hoping that someone might be able to give me some advice or point me in the right direction as one of the fans on my PH-TC14 cooler is on its way out ( you have to keep flicking it to start it spinning ) and it needs replacing. The fans which are on it are the old PH-F140TS fans and I am hoping to replace them with a proper PWM controlled set of fans.
> 
> The fans that I have been looking at so far are:
> 
> 1.Phanteks PH-F140HP II ( having trouble getting them as have been told they are no longer available ).
> 2.Thermaltake TY-143 ( easy fit and good power but does not match colour of computer but will use at a pinch ).
> 3.Noctua NF-A15 PWM ( will use but would like a fan with a bit more grunt plus colour will not match).
> 4.Noctua NF-A14 PWM ( more power than the A15 but have to mod the fan mounts to fit plus colour will not match).
> 5.Noctua NF-P14r PWM ( easy fit will colour match and cheap ).
> 6.Noctua NF-A14 industrial PPC-3000 PWM ( much more power not to bad colour but have to mod fan mounts to fit ).
> 
> Are there any other fans I should be looking at and which fan would be better suited to my rig. Also as far as noise goes as long as the fan is not to loud at idle ( when surfing ), noise is not to much of a problem as the processor only gets stressed when gaming.


NZXT FX140 V2 - 2000rpm PWM - Black and White - well reviewed here by ehume.

I use the 24V Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-24V-3000 IP67 on a D14. They run about 1600rpm max on 12V, but sound much smoother at low rpms than the 3000rpm 12V version.

140mm fans running above 2000rpm is far above my ear-grade tho.


----------



## demon09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hagal*
> 
> I was hoping that someone might be able to give me some advice or point me in the right direction as one of the fans on my PH-TC14 cooler is on its way out ( you have to keep flicking it to start it spinning ) and it needs replacing. The fans which are on it are the old PH-F140TS fans and I am hoping to replace them with a proper PWM controlled set of fans.
> 
> The fans that I have been looking at so far are:
> 
> 1.Phanteks PH-F140HP II ( having trouble getting them as have been told they are no longer available ).
> 2.Thermaltake TY-143 ( easy fit and good power but does not match colour of computer but will use at a pinch ).
> 3.Noctua NF-A15 PWM ( will use but would like a fan with a bit more grunt plus colour will not match).
> 4.Noctua NF-A14 PWM ( more power than the A15 but have to mod the fan mounts to fit plus colour will not match).
> 5.Noctua NF-P14r PWM ( easy fit will colour match and cheap ).
> 6.Noctua NF-A14 industrial PPC-3000 PWM ( much more power not to bad colour but have to mod fan mounts to fit ).
> 
> Are there any other fans I should be looking at and which fan would be better suited to my rig. Also as far as noise goes as long as the fan is not to loud at idle ( when surfing ), noise is not to much of a problem as the processor only gets stressed when gaming.


I'd shoot phanteks an email and see what they have they might be able to sell you some of the fans that come stock with the coolers


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hagal*
> 
> I was hoping that someone might be able to give me some advice or point me in the right direction as one of the fans on my PH-TC14 cooler is on its way out ( you have to keep flicking it to start it spinning ) and it needs replacing. The fans which are on it are the old PH-F140TS fans and I am hoping to replace them with a proper PWM controlled set of fans.
> 
> The fans that I have been looking at so far are:
> 
> 1.Phanteks PH-F140HP II ( having trouble getting them as have been told they are no longer available ).
> 2.Thermaltake TY-143 ( easy fit and good power but does not match colour of computer but will use at a pinch ).
> 3.Noctua NF-A15 PWM ( will use but would like a fan with a bit more grunt plus colour will not match).
> 4.Noctua NF-A14 PWM ( more power than the A15 but have to mod the fan mounts to fit plus colour will not match).
> 5.Noctua NF-P14r PWM ( easy fit will colour match and cheap ).
> 6.Noctua NF-A14 industrial PPC-3000 PWM ( much more power not to bad colour but have to mod fan mounts to fit ).
> 
> Are there any other fans I should be looking at and which fan would be better suited to my rig. Also as far as noise goes as long as the fan is not to loud at idle ( when surfing ), noise is not to much of a problem as the processor only gets stressed when gaming.


If you're quick there's a couple of HPII's left at Newegg.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hagal*
> 
> I was hoping that someone might be able to give me some advice or point me in the right direction as one of the fans on my PH-TC14 cooler is on its way out ( you have to keep flicking it to start it spinning ) and it needs replacing. The fans which are on it are the old PH-F140TS fans and I am hoping to replace them with a proper PWM controlled set of fans.
> 
> The fans that I have been looking at so far are:
> 
> 1.Phanteks PH-F140HP II ( having trouble getting them as have been told they are no longer available ).
> 2.Thermaltake TY-143 ( easy fit and good power but does not match colour of computer but will use at a pinch ).
> 3.Noctua NF-A15 PWM ( will use but would like a fan with a bit more grunt plus colour will not match).
> 4.Noctua NF-A14 PWM ( more power than the A15 but have to mod the fan mounts to fit plus colour will not match).
> 5.Noctua NF-P14r PWM ( easy fit will colour match and cheap ).
> 6.Noctua NF-A14 industrial PPC-3000 PWM ( much more power not to bad colour but have to mod fan mounts to fit ).
> 
> Are there any other fans I should be looking at and which fan would be better suited to my rig. Also as far as noise goes as long as the fan is not to loud at idle ( when surfing ), noise is not to much of a problem as the processor only gets stressed when gaming.


Where are you located and what online sites do you use?
TY-143 are very good, idle down to about 550rpm and as as quiet as any at same rpm. it is only when spinning at 1500-1800+rpm that they become loud.
PH-F140HP-II are good and go fast enough for high heat loads.
NF-A14 & NF-A15 are lower rpm .. so not reserve rpm / high airflow
NF-P14r are not as good.
I would not consider fans that do not have 120mm mount holes. Thee are plenty of fans that do.


----------



## 8051

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hagal*
> 
> I was hoping that someone might be able to give me some advice or point me in the right direction as one of the fans on my PH-TC14 cooler is on its way out ( you have to keep flicking it to start it spinning ) and it needs replacing. The fans which are on it are the old PH-F140TS fans and I am hoping to replace them with a proper PWM controlled set of fans.
> 
> The fans that I have been looking at so far are:
> 
> 1.Phanteks PH-F140HP II ( having trouble getting them as have been told they are no longer available ).
> 2.Thermaltake TY-143 ( easy fit and good power but does not match colour of computer but will use at a pinch ).
> 3.Noctua NF-A15 PWM ( will use but would like a fan with a bit more grunt plus colour will not match).
> 4.Noctua NF-A14 PWM ( more power than the A15 but have to mod the fan mounts to fit plus colour will not match).
> 5.Noctua NF-P14r PWM ( easy fit will colour match and cheap ).
> 6.Noctua NF-A14 industrial PPC-3000 PWM ( much more power not to bad colour but have to mod fan mounts to fit ).
> 
> Are there any other fans I should be looking at and which fan would be better suited to my rig. Also as far as noise goes as long as the fan is not to loud at idle ( when surfing ), noise is not to much of a problem as the processor only gets stressed when gaming.


I was considering a NF-A14 PPC-3000 for my ph-tc14 but ended up using it on my 980Ti (which seems to run much hotter than any CPU I've ever owned).

If find the stock phantek's fan's to be anemic in comparison to the Deltas and SanAce 38mm fans I like to use for cooling.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8051*
> 
> I was considering a NF-A14 PPC-3000 for my ph-tc14 but ended up using it on my 980Ti (which seems to run much hotter than any CPU I've ever owned).
> 
> If find the stock phantek's fan's to be anemic in comparison to the Deltas and SanAce 38mm fans I like to use for cooling.


I've heard many complaints about NF-A14 iPPC fans not being quiet. Noctua has stated they are industrial fans and are not as quiet as most of their consumer fans.
Most would concider your use of 38mm thick fans as overkill.


----------



## 8051

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I've heard many complaints about NF-A14 iPPC fans not being quiet. Noctua has stated they are industrial fans and are not as quiet as most of their consumer fans.
> Most would concider your use of 38mm thick fans as overkill.


After using a Vantec Tornado 92x38mm quiet is a relative term. I haven't come across anything that loud in a long, long time. 4500 RPM will do that.


----------



## AlphaC

Phanteks site seems to be down as of tonight.

Maybe they're adding the new items announced at Computex?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> Phanteks site seems to be down as of tonight.
> 
> Maybe they're adding the new items announced at Computex?


PhanteksUSA com is up, but Phanteks com is still down and it's 10:25 GMT


----------



## AlphaC

Still relevant in 2017!













http://www.hardware.fr/articles/929-23/recapitulatif-delta-t-vs-db-a.html


----------



## 8051

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> Still relevant in 2017!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.hardware.fr/articles/929-23/recapitulatif-delta-t-vs-db-a.html


I wish I could attach a ph-tc14pe to my 980Ti.


----------



## doyll

Thanks @AlphaC Hardeware.fr do a good bit of testing .. though it's disappointing how much warmer they show the Dark Rock Pro 3 does at 200w .. but then it is only rated 250 watt TDP.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8051*
> 
> I wish I could attach a ph-tc14pe to my 980Ti.


Do you mean GTX 980 Ti GPU?
There are some good aftermarket cooelr that fit it.


----------



## 8051

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Thanks @AlphaC Hardeware.fr do a good bit of testing .. though it's disappointing how much warmer they show the Dark Rock Pro 3 does at 200w .. but then it is only rated 250 watt TDP.
> Do you mean GTX 980 Ti GPU?
> There are some good aftermarket cooelr that fit it.


There can't be any air cooler for the 980Ti that's as good as the ph-tc14pe though right? Unless I believe their marketing lies (e.g. dissipating up to 360 Watts).


----------



## 8051

I want to replace the middle, stock PH-F140HP fan with a higher powered thermalright TY-143 fan -- if it'll fit (it's 1.5mm wider than the stock 140x25mm fan). Because of the proximity of my video card in PCIe slot 1 to the PH-TC14PE I can't use the clips to mount the fan, I have to use zipties (using the ziptie bolt technique documented here on overclock.net).

I've also been considering mounting a Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 14 in the middle position with it's special counter-vaned 10mm thick shroud (the Staticbooster 14).

Which of these options would be more likely to provide better cooling? Is it better to have the middle fan mounted with its intake right against the front tower or to have the middle fan mounted with its output mounted right up against the back tower?


----------



## Spork13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8051*
> 
> I want to replace the middle, stock PH-F140HP fan with a higher powered thermalright TY-143 fan -- if it'll fit (it's 1.5mm wider than the stock 140x25mm fan)..... Is it better to have the middle fan mounted with its intake right against the front tower or to have the middle fan mounted with its output mounted right up against the back tower?


I'm guessing a fan that's 1.5mm thicker than the stock Phanteks ones will be flush against both towers. It's a pretty snug fit in there.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> I'm guessing a fan that's 1.5mm thicker than the stock Phanteks ones will be flush against both towers. It's a pretty snug fit in there.


While I can't remember the exact thickness of stock fan, I had no problem fitting TY-143 on my red PH-TC14PE and later TY-147A on my black one. The fan pins do not fit unless you cut off one side, so I made new ones with zipties. Link below is tutorial for making them.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/20_20#post_23389821


----------



## 8051

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> While I can't remember the exact thickness of stock fan, I had no problem fitting TY-143 on my red PH-TC14PE and later TY-147A on my black one. The fan pins do not fit unless you cut off one side, so I made new ones with zipties. Link below is tutorial for making them.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/20_20#post_23389821


You had two Ty-143's on your ph-tc14pe -- that must've kept your CPU cool as a cucumber.

Is it worth it to remove and replace the tall, stock middle bolt in a ph-tc14pe w/a shorter motherboard bolt so that the fan will sit lower down between the two towers (i.e. to improve cooling)?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8051*
> 
> You had two Ty-143's on your ph-tc14pe -- that must've kept your CPU cool as a cucumber.
> 
> Is it worth it to remove and replace the tall, stock middle bolt in a ph-tc14pe w/a shorter motherboard bolt so that the fan will sit lower down between the two towers (i.e. to improve cooling)?


That was on 920 @ 4.2GHz, but honestly I never ran the fans above 1200rpm at about 64c, and that was encoding with all cores at 95-100% in 25c hot weather. To get fans to faster speed (PWM% to temp was set for max PWM % @ 70c) was to unplug power to fans (on a spitter with PSU power) for about 4 minutes with CPU at 100% load to heat it up to about 80c, then plug power back in. Then fans would hit 2500rpm for about 2 minutes on way down to about 1800rpm, then take another 2-3 minutes slowing down as temp got lower untile back to 1200rpm over next 2-3 minutes .. all while CPU was at 100% load.
And yes, it was quite loud when I did that for the first


----------



## 8051

I hate to ask another question in this thread but would it be possible to stick a Noctua NF A14 industrialPPC-3000 as the middle fan in a PH-TC14PE?
This fan has more static pressure than just about any 140mm fan out there (10.52mm-H2O?!) so it should be good for heatsinks right?

As it is I can't use the bottom clip on the PH-TC14PE because it would be scraping the back of my video card, so I was thinking of using ziptie bolts to attach it through the heatsink fins.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8051*
> 
> I hate to ask another question in this thread but would it be possible to stick a Noctua NF A14 industrialPPC-3000 as the middle fan in a PH-TC14PE?
> This fan has more static pressure than just about any 140mm fan out there (10.52mm-H2O?!) so it should be good for heatsinks right?
> 
> As it is I can't use the bottom clip on the PH-TC14PE because it would be scraping the back of my video card, so I was thinking of using ziptie bolts to attach it through the heatsink fins.


Sure, you can. But to have that high high mm H2O the fan has to be running at full speed, and at that speed it sounds like a jet engine .. even louder then my TY-143s sounded if I ran them at full speed.

Which fans does your PH-TC14PE have? They have come with 3 different fans over the years now.


----------



## 8051

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sure, you can. But to have that high high mm H2O the fan has to be running at full speed, and at that speed it sounds like a jet engine .. even louder then my TY-143s sounded if I ran them at full speed.
> 
> Which fans does your PH-TC14PE have? They have come with 3 different fans over the years now.


The back of the fans indicate PH-F140HP 0.20A. I have the uncolored, silver version of the PH-tc14pe


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8051*
> 
> The back of the fans indicate PH-F140HP 0.20A. I have the uncolored, silver version of the PH-tc14pe


I'll assume they are PWM? They have now upgraded that HP to PH-F140HP_II 1600rpm with different impeller


Are your stock fans not cooling well enough for your needs? If you upgrade to high performance high speed fans you will need to increase your case airflow to match.

Have you optimized your case airflow so cooler is getting air that is less then 5c above room ambient?


----------



## 8051

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'll assume they are PWM? They have now upgraded that HP to PH-F140HP_II 1600rpm with different impeller
> 
> Are your stock fans not cooling well enough for your needs? If you upgrade to high performance high speed fans you will need to increase your case airflow to match.
> 
> Have you optimized your case airflow so cooler is getting air that is less then 5c above room ambient?


The PH-F140HP's I have only go to 1300 RPM (and not even that as the highest RPM I've seen is 1290).

I have a lousy case, it's a Thermaltake Revo, aside from the slow 200x30mm fan in front of the hard drive cage, the only intake fan I have is the side fan, which I replaced w/a Silverstone SST-AP182 and I only run when gaming at full speed.

I also have exhaust fans in the back rear wall and top rear ceiling. Would the motherboard temp sensor be at all accurate to determine how bad my case temps are at load?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8051*
> 
> The PH-F140HP's I have only go to 1300 RPM (and not even that as the highest RPM I've seen is 1290).
> 
> I have a lousy case, it's a Thermaltake Revo, aside from the slow 200x30mm fan in front of the hard drive cage, the only intake fan I have is the side fan, which I replaced w/a Silverstone SST-AP182 and I only run when gaming at full speed.
> 
> I also have exhaust fans in the back rear wall and top rear ceiling. Would the motherboard temp sensor be at all accurate to determine how bad my case temps are at load?


Fan specs are +/-10%, so a 1300rpm fan in open air will run 1170-1430rpm. 1290rpm on cooler is good.

I suggest you monitor case airflow temps and if they are more than 5c warmer than room at full speed maybe it's time to look for a better case with better case intake fans.

You might find 'Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig of interest. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. 5th post in that thread is good place to start. It shows how I monitor case airflow temps.

AP182 is good fan above about 800rpm. No idea about motherboard sensor. If you haven't seen it this is setup I use to monitor airflow temps inside of case.

To me airflow rating is almost worthless. Airflow and pressure ratings give a better idea, but even that is almost always at fans maximum speed so unless using at full speed does't mean as much.


----------



## soureraser

Can anyone tell me the ram height clearance between the bottom fin to the third dimm slot? I know you can adjust the front fan for the first ram slot but third one is in fixed position and my ram measures around 48mm


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soureraser*
> 
> Can anyone tell me the ram height clearance between the bottom fin to the third dimm slot? I know you can adjust the front fan for the first ram slot but third one is in fixed position and my ram measures around 48mm


PH-TC14PE will fit over your RAM with 4-5mm of clearance.

On my old red PH-TC14PE (one of first sold) it is 45mm from top of CPU to bottom fin. That is about 52mm from surface of motherboard to bottom fin.


Please keep in mind for RAM that is 48mm tall above motherboard your case needs to have 180mm CPU clearance for a fan to fit between top of RAM and case side cover (assuming it's a tower case.

RAM socket is 3mm + RAM = RAM heights (48mm for yours) +140mm for fan = 188mm.
Case CPU clearance specificatian (needs to be 180mm) + 8mm motherborard to top of RAM is 188mm.
Here is a guide to figuring cooler, RAM and case clearances:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/20_20#post_23232751


----------



## soureraser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> PH-TC14PE will fit over your RAM with 4-5mm of clearance.
> 
> On my old red PH-TC14PE (one of first sold) it is 45mm from top of CPU to bottom fin. That is about 52mm from surface of motherboard to bottom fin.
> 
> 
> Please keep in mind for RAM that is 48mm tall above motherboard your case needs to have 180mm CPU clearance for a fan to fit between top of RAM and case side cover (assuming it's a tower case.
> 
> RAM socket is 3mm + RAM = RAM heights (48mm for yours) +140mm for fan = 188mm.
> Case CPU clearance specificatian (needs to be 180mm) + 8mm motherborard to top of RAM is 188mm.
> Here is a guide to figuring cooler, RAM and case clearances:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/20_20#post_23232751


Thank you very much for the diagram and the explanation. Not sure why I couldn't find it beforehand haha.

Dang I totally forgot to take account of front fan and case clearance... I was so focused on that 3rd ram slot clearance that I just thought I can raise the front fan without any hitch but turns out it's the opposite.

I don't think it'll fit in my Define S since it's rated up to 180mm


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soureraser*
> 
> Thank you very much for the diagram and the explanation. Not sure why I couldn't find it beforehand haha.
> 
> Dang I totally forgot to take account of front fan and case clearance... I was so focused on that 3rd ram slot clearance that I just thought I can raise the front fan without any hitch but turns out it's the opposite.
> 
> I don't think it'll fit in my Define S since it's rated up to 180mm


Maybe mount the fans pull / pull instead of push / push?


----------



## demon09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soureraser*
> 
> Thank you very much for the diagram and the explanation. Not sure why I couldn't find it beforehand haha.
> 
> Dang I totally forgot to take account of front fan and case clearance... I was so focused on that 3rd ram slot clearance that I just thought I can raise the front fan without any hitch but turns out it's the opposite.
> 
> I don't think it'll fit in my Define S since it's rated up to 180mm


in my case I used a 120mm fan over the ram for that reason I even had to use a different screw in the middle so I could push the middle fan down lower and crammed it into a case with 165mm of clearence with a few mm to spare


----------



## 8051

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demon09*
> 
> in my case I used a 120mm fan over the ram for that reason I even had to use a different screw in the middle so I could push the middle fan down lower and crammed it into a case with 165mm of clearence with a few mm to spare


I don't understand this because on my ph-tc14pe the stock 140x25mm fan is already even w/the top of the heatsink when I put it in w/the stock attachment bolt/screw. Putting in a shorter bolt/screw would put the fan lower than the top of the heatsink.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8051*
> 
> I don't understand this because on my ph-tc14pe the stock 140x25mm fan is already even w/the top of the heatsink when I put it in w/the stock attachment bolt/screw. Putting in a shorter bolt/screw would put the fan lower than the top of the heatsink.


Maybe Phanteks changed the crossbar to cooler base to a shorter screw, but on both of mine to get the fan flush with top of cooler I had to remove the crossbar mounting screw. I don't remember what the thread is, but either a HDD mount screw or a 5.25" bay mount screw works. I assume most of us know they are not both the same.


----------



## 8051

Would adding the 2500 RPM Thermalright TY-143 as a third pull fan behind the stock slow speed PH-F140HP fan in the middle position and a 2800 RPM push delta 120x38mm fan make any difference in the cooling ability of the phantek's ph-tc14pe?


----------



## demon09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8051*
> 
> Would adding the 2500 RPM Thermalright TY-143 as a third pull fan behind the stock slow speed PH-F140HP fan in the middle position and a 2800 RPM push delta 120x38mm fan make any difference in the cooling ability of the phantek's ph-tc14pe?


maybe at the price of noise this cooler is pretty much the same cooling as nh-d15


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8051*
> 
> Would adding the 2500 RPM Thermalright TY-143 as a third pull fan behind the stock slow speed PH-F140HP fan in the middle position and a 2800 RPM push delta 120x38mm fan make any difference in the cooling ability of the phantek's ph-tc14pe?


I don't know how well the T:Y-143 and Delta 120x38mm compare in airflow but would guess they would not be a happy pair of fans on a cooler .. and the PH-F140HP would hurt performance because the other two fans move so much more air it will be a functioning as a windmill, not a fan.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demon09*
> 
> maybe at the price of noise this cooler is pretty much the same cooling as nh-d15[/quote
> Not sure what you means by 'at the price of noise'.
> Years back we tested NH-D14 with 2x TY-143 on i7 [email protected] and found it was 8.25c coooler @ 2500rpm than at 1200rpm .. 1200rpm was 5c cooler than at 650rpm.
> 2500rpm = 46.3c
> 1200rpm = 54.55c
> . 640rpm = 59.65c
> Testing was done against TRUE Spirit 140 Power and antique TRUE Copper. TRUE Spirit 140 Power was 2.1c cooler than D14 and TRUE Copper was 1.15c warmer then D14. FYI, NH-D14 cools the same as D15 with same fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NH-D15 and PH-TC14PE cool very close to the same, even though D15 has NH-A15 has1500rpmm fans that are 200rpm faster then PH-TC14PE PH-F140HP fans. New PH-TC14PE comes with PH-F140HP_II fans that run 1600rpm. I have not re-tested original PH-TC14PE with PH-F140HP_II fans.
> 
> Phanteks changed the cooler from 2-piece fins to single piece fins about 6 months ago. I asked them about testing one of the new 1-piece finned coolers and they said no reason to because it cools the same as older 2-piece finned cooler does .. while I believe this to be true, I have no proof it is.


----------



## 8051

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I don't know how well the T:Y-143 and Delta 120x38mm compare in airflow but would guess they would not be a happy pair of fans on a cooler .. and the PH-F140HP would hurt performance because the other two fans move so much more air it will be a functioning as a windmill, not a fan.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *demon09*
> 
> maybe at the price of noise this cooler is pretty much the same cooling as nh-d15[/quote
> Not sure what you means by 'at the price of noise'.
> Years back we tested NH-D14 with 2x TY-143 on i7 [email protected] and found it was 8.25c coooler @ 2500rpm than at 1200rpm .. 1200rpm was 5c cooler than at 650rpm.
> 2500rpm = 46.3c
> 1200rpm = 54.55c
> . 640rpm = 59.65c
> Testing was done against TRUE Spirit 140 Power and antique TRUE Copper. TRUE Spirit 140 Power was 2.1c cooler than D14 and TRUE Copper was 1.15c warmer then D14. FYI, NH-D14 cools the same as D15 with same fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NH-D15 and PH-TC14PE cool very close to the same, even though D15 has NH-A15 has1500rpmm fans that are 200rpm faster then PH-TC14PE PH-F140HP fans. New PH-TC14PE comes with PH-F140HP_II fans that run 1600rpm. I have not re-tested original PH-TC14PE with PH-F140HP_II fans.
> 
> Phanteks changed the cooler from 2-piece fins to single piece fins about 6 months ago. I asked them about testing one of the new 1-piece finned coolers and they said no reason to because it cools the same as older 2-piece finned cooler does .. while I believe this to be true, I have no proof it is.
Click to expand...

My only other option was to keep the middle position completely empty of fans because of my memory I couldn't place the other PH-F140HP fan in front, that's why the delta 120x38mm.

Now I'm thinking of putting a prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 14 in the back position -- since it's more closely matched to the specs of the PH-F140P fan.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8051*
> 
> My only other option was to keep the middle position completely empty of fans because of my memory I couldn't place the other PH-F140HP fan in front, that's why the delta 120x38mm.
> 
> Now I'm thinking of putting a prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 14 in the back position -- since it's more closely matched to the specs of the PH-F140P fan.


Why not use the PH-F140HPs mounted pull / pull on the towers?


----------



## Himo5

Two added advantages of using a pull/pull configuration - especially when replacing the center screw with a smaller headed one, allowing part of the center fan to drop down below the heat sink fins - is the reduction of dust accumulated between the heat sink and the fans and an increase in cool air blowing over the RAM into the front of the heat sink and off the lower face of the RAM nearest the CPU through the part of the center fan below the fins.


----------



## 8051

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Why not use the PH-F140HPs mounted pull / pull on the towers?


I forgot I have the other spare one I never used, so I should just pull the center fan out completely?


----------



## 8051

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Two added advantages of using a pull/pull configuration - especially when replacing the center screw with a smaller headed one, allowing part of the center fan to drop down below the heat sink fins - is the reduction of dust accumulated between the heat sink and the fans and an increase in cool air blowing over the RAM into the front of the heat sink and off the lower face of the RAM nearest the CPU through the part of the center fan below the fins.


I never thought about that I suppose it is better to drop the center fan as far as it will go. I wanted a three fan config because I thought that would provide the best cooling capacity. Doyll's tests seemed to indicate a three fan config was best for cooling.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8051*
> 
> I forgot I have the other spare one I never used, so I should just pull the center fan out completely?


Push / push is fan on front fin pack and fan in middle on back fin pack.
Pull / pull fan on front fin pack in middle on fan on back of back fin pack.

The difference between 1x, 2x and 3x fan sis only a couple degrees. Most of us will see more difference in cooling by making sure case airflow is optimized so air temp going into cooler is same or very close to same as room air temp.


----------



## 8051

I just want to thank Doyll for the info on replacing the tall, middle bolt with a HDD(?) screw. Removing the screw allowed me to sink the Noctua 140x25mm NF-A14-IndustrialPPC-3000 down so that all fan airflow is now directed across the fin stack or heatpipes.

Due to the ziptie bolts I used to attach the front delta 120x38mm I couldn't use the TY-143, which for some reason would stick out above the finstack even w/the shorter middle bolt installed in the PH-TC14PE.

The Noctua seems to have made a definitive diff over the stock, slow speed phanteks 140mm fan in terms of temps and noise.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8051*
> 
> I just want to thank Doyll for the info on replacing the tall, middle bolt with a HDD(?) screw. Removing the screw allowed me to sink the Noctua 140x25mm NF-A14-IndustrialPPC-3000 down so that all fan airflow is now directed across the fin stack or heatpipes.
> 
> Due to the ziptie bolts I used to attach the front delta 120x38mm I couldn't use the TY-143, which for some reason would stick out above the finstack even w/the shorter middle bolt installed in the PH-TC14PE.
> 
> The Noctua seems to have made a definitive diff over the stock, slow speed phanteks 140mm fan in terms of temps and noise.


You are welcome Thanks for letting me know.








+rep
Which stock fans did/does your PH-TC14PE have?


----------



## 8051

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You are welcome Thanks for letting me know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +rep
> Which stock fans did/does your PH-TC14PE have?


My PH-TC14PE came w/the PH-F140HP fans. None of which I'm using anymore.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8051*
> 
> My PH-TC14PE came w/the PH-F140HP fans. None of which I'm using anymore.


If they were the PWM version they are not bad fans, but there are better .. and the new PH-F140HP_II are much better .. but not as high RPM as your fans are.


----------



## Himo5

It has probably escaped the notice of most people that Phanteks Air Coolers were not supplied with a vertical mounting bracket for AM3 motherboards.

The Intel fitting had a square bracket (what one reviewer called a rotational bracket) which allowed the cooler to be mounted both ways, but when reviewers pass over the AMD fitting as just a matter of using the motherboard's base plate nobody mentions the fact that it is rectilinear and therefore needs a seperate bracket for each mode.

So there may well be many like myself who failed to register the inclusion of a vertical bracket in last year's AM4 Upgrade Kit offer.

But now that so many motherboard manufacturers have taken to adding a shroud to the I/O array anyone trying to fit a PH-TC14PE cooler horizontally on a Ryzen motherboard in a narrow case by mounting the fans in the Pull/Pull configuration is likely to find that the fan won't fit on that side of the HSF either.

Having just spent the 6 weeks it now takes to acquire this year's AM4 Upgrade Kit from Phanteks I now find that it only contains the horizontal bracket.

Unless there is some other source for the 'rotational' AM4 Upgrade Kit, or the Criorig or Noctua kits fit the Phanteks it looks like I'll have to get the angle grinder out.


----------



## zila

8051 said:


> I just want to thank Doyll for the info on replacing the tall, middle bolt with a HDD(?) screw. Removing the screw allowed me to sink the Noctua 140x25mm NF-A14-IndustrialPPC-3000 down so that all fan airflow is now directed across the fin stack or heatpipes.
> 
> Due to the ziptie bolts I used to attach the front delta 120x38mm I couldn't use the TY-143, which for some reason would stick out above the finstack even w/the shorter middle bolt installed in the PH-TC14PE.
> 
> The Noctua seems to have made a definitive diff over the stock, slow speed phanteks 140mm fan in terms of temps and noise.


When I've got the money saved up I'm gonna get a pair of those fans to try on my PH-TC14PE. I have the stock PWM fans that came with mine but I'd like to try those.


----------



## doyll

8051 said:


> Due to the ziptie bolts I used to attach the front delta 120x38mm I couldn't use the TY-143, which for some reason would stick out above the finstack even w/the shorter middle bolt installed in the PH-TC14PE.
> 
> The Noctua seems to have made a definitive diff over the stock, slow speed phanteks 140mm fan in terms of temps and noise.


I had missed that when I read it back in January. I always mount the TY-14x fans with flat sides on top and bottom, like this.


----------



## superchad

What would be the best way to mount 3x of these fans, the screw holes are not open so I can't use the attachement pieces without cutting the fan, they also have a 140mm frame all around

they do have significantly better CFM and static pressure.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4CP3GA5270


----------



## doyll

superchad said:


> What would be the best way to mount 3x of these fans, the screw holes are not open so I can't use the attachement pieces without cutting the fan, they also have a 140mm frame all around
> 
> they do have significantly better CFM and static pressure.
> 
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4CP3GA5270


The reason they have higher cfm and pressure ratings is because they are 122cfm & 2.8mm H2O @ 1800rpm.
PH-F140HP fans are 88.5cfm & 1.63mm H2O @ 1300rpm 
If they ran 1800rpm they would be about 122.5cfm & 2.26mm H2O 

Newest coolers come with PH-F140HP_II 68.1cfm @ 1.62mm H2O @ 1600rpm
While their specs are lower than older PH-F140HP, their P/Q curve is higher in the 800-1300rpm middle range .. meaning more airflow and pressure at speeds most of us use the most. 

If you really want more airflow, the TY-143 is best way to go and fit nicely. 
They run 550-2500rpm and have 130cfm & 4.21mm H20 @ 2500rpm. 

Below is a pic of them on my red PH-TC14PE. At back of cooler is black shroud to back of case to move all of it's heat back and out of case.









Here is 3x TY-143 on black cooler


----------



## ciarlatano

superchad said:


> What would be the best way to mount 3x of these fans, the screw holes are not open so I can't use the attachement pieces without cutting the fan, they also have a 140mm frame all around
> 
> they do have significantly better CFM and static pressure.
> 
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4CP3GA5270


Agreed with all @doyll says above. Also....that elevated airflow will come at the cost of noise regardless of what fan you choose.


----------



## doyll

Indeed, I should have mentioned most 140mm fans above about 1300rpm become too loud for most of us to listen to. I don't like the sound level above about 1150-1200rpm .. which is as fast as my 140mm fans usually ever run. Only time they run faster is if filters are dirty and room temp is about 26c. 120mm fan can spin about 200rpm faster before they make too much noise.


----------



## 8051

What kind of Gigabyte video card is that Doyll? Some sort of manufacturer's prototype or sample?


----------



## doyll

8051 said:


> What kind of Gigabyte video card is that Doyll? Some sort of manufacturer's prototype or sample?


The red cooler was mine. The black one is just an image off internet. GPUs are normal 
EVGA GeForce GTX 680
https://www.evga.com/products/specs/gpu.aspx?pn=15e0ecc3-246e-461d-8a37-7c3f48bb2ce7


----------



## zila

I have three of the stock Phanteks 140MM PWM fans on mine currently cooling a Ryzen 5 1600 on an Asus Prime X370 Pro. It is a beautiful cooler for sure.


----------



## superchad

doyll said:


> The reason they have higher cfm and pressure ratings is because they are 122cfm & 2.8mm H2O @ 1800rpm.
> PH-F140HP fans are 88.5cfm & 1.63mm H2O @ 1300rpm
> If they ran 1800rpm they would be about 122.5cfm & 2.26mm H2O
> 
> Newest coolers come with PH-F140HP_II 68.1cfm @ 1.62mm H2O @ 1600rpm
> While their specs are lower than older PH-F140HP, their P/Q curve is higher in the 800-1300rpm middle range .. meaning more airflow and pressure at speeds most of us use the most.
> 
> If you really want more airflow, the TY-143 is best way to go and fit nicely.
> They run 550-2500rpm and have 130cfm & 4.21mm H20 @ 2500rpm.
> 
> Below is a pic of them on my red PH-TC14PE. At back of cooler is black shroud to back of case to move all of it's heat back and out of case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is 3x TY-143 on black cooler


appreciate the feedback, The TY-143 would be amazing, but unfortunately it doesn't fit my white and black color theme and would be way out of place, I would get it if it came in other colors, also I care more about the peak performance to keep my CPU cool at max loads, I don't mind the extra noise and I already have 4x of the Bitfenix (2x intake and 2x exhaust) on my case


----------



## 8051

doyll said:


> The red cooler was mine. The black one is just an image off internet. GPUs are normal
> EVGA GeForce GTX 680
> https://www.evga.com/products/specs/gpu.aspx?pn=15e0ecc3-246e-461d-8a37-7c3f48bb2ce7


The gigabyte card you pictured is fanless and not watercooled, that's why I figured it must be some sort of strange experimental part.


----------



## doyll

8051 said:


> The gigabyte card you pictured is fanless and not watercooled, that's why I figured it must be some sort of strange experimental part.


Sorry, but I have no idea what Gigabyte card you are referring to. Below is miy red PH-TC14PE image from above, and there is no graphics card visible.


----------



## Himo5

I still say it's not quite the same red (lol).


----------



## superchad

again since the TY-143 isn't a good option due to the color, how would I go about putting the Bitfenix fans on my cooler?


----------



## doyll

superchad said:


> again since the TY-143 isn't a good option due to the color, how would I go about putting the Bitfenix fans on my cooler?


Use zip-ties and plastic washers on connector end if it isn't big enough to be held in place with 2 fins. Feed zip-tie though fins and fan and slip another ziptie end onto it tight agains fan .. for feed zip-tie through fan and fins and slip another zip-tie onto end tight to fins, then cut of excess zip-tie.

Or you could get inventive and make some fan chips that fit the 124.5mm spacing of 140mm fan mounting holes with appropriate size piano wire.


----------



## Himo5

superchad said:


> again since the TY-143 isn't a good option due to the color, how would I go about putting the Bitfenix fans on my cooler?


You are going to have trouble fitting square fans on the Phanteks because it's designed for 140mm fans cut down to fit 120mm centres.

Your best bet would be to get hold of some 1mm steel spring wire and bend it into a shape to fit your own fans, something like the fan clips on the Scythe Mugen 5 would do the trick, but get some extra wire in case your first attempts don't fit.

Failing that you could get some 3.6x600mm ties and try that, but be warned, if you start deforming the fins on the HSF they are likely to fall apart.


----------



## superchad

doyll said:


> Use zip-ties and plastic washers on connector end if it isn't big enough to be held in place with 2 fins. Feed zip-tie though fins and fan and slip another ziptie end onto it tight agains fan .. for feed zip-tie through fan and fins and slip another zip-tie onto end tight to fins, then cut of excess zip-tie.
> 
> Or you could get inventive and make some fan chips that fit the 124.5mm spacing of 140mm fan mounting holes with appropriate size piano wire.


I was thinking about cutting part of the frame for the bitfenix fans, they have a frame that holds the fan and the mounting frame that holds that

what is more important for a heatsink? airflow or pressure, the fins are not as dense as a radiator for a liquid cooler


----------



## doyll

superchad said:


> I was thinking about cutting part of the frame for the bitfenix fans, they have a frame that holds the fan and the mounting frame that holds that
> 
> what is more important for a heatsink? airflow or pressure, the fins are not as dense as a radiator for a liquid cooler


Fan performance is a combination of flow and pressure, not one or the other. On coolers we generally don't need as high a pressure rating to overcome resistance because there is not much resistance, but at very low speed higher pressure rated fans usually give us better airflow because the fan's higher pressure rating means it has more ability to overcome even low resistance at low speeds and maintain airflow. Fan's CFM and mm H2O are kinda hard to explain, but the more mm H2O a fan has the more airflow it will have more airflow against restriction.


----------



## superchad

doyll said:


> Fan performance is a combination of flow and pressure, not one or the other. On coolers we generally don't need as high a pressure rating to overcome resistance because there is not much resistance, but at very low speed higher pressure rated fans usually give us better airflow because the fan's higher pressure rating means it has more ability to overcome even low resistance at low speeds and maintain airflow. Fan's CFM and mm H2O are kinda hard to explain, but the more mm H2O a fan has the more airflow it will have more airflow against restriction.


surely there has to be the best balance? and like I said, I am more interested in the maximum cooling potential of the fan, how well it does at full speed


----------



## 8051

doyll said:


> I had missed that when I read it back in January. I always mount the TY-14x fans with flat sides on top and bottom, like this.


Doyll this is the picture you posted showing how you install your ty-14x fans on your ph-tc14pe. I figured it was your personal rig. The gigabyte video card shown in the photo seems to have a fanless heatsink. I figured it was some sort of Gigabyte manufacturing prototype you had.


----------



## doyll

8051 said:


> Doyll this is the picture you posted showing how you install your ty-14x fans on your ph-tc14pe. I figured it was your personal rig. The gigabyte video card shown in the photo seems to have a fanless heatsink. I figured it was some sort of Gigabyte manufacturing prototype you had.


It was a production GV-R677SL-1GD. They made a couple different models years back.


----------



## doyll13

Hi Phanteks users 

Im going to buy PH-TC14PE black but choosing between that and Dark Rock Pro 4
Please convince me to choose Phanteks one

P.S.: will insert the tower into Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Flow Edition


----------



## gedoze

doyll13 said:


> Hi Phanteks users
> 
> Im going to buy PH-TC14PE black but choosing between that and Dark Rock Pro 4
> Please convince me to choose Phanteks one
> 
> P.S.: will insert the tower into Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Flow Edition


That's easy:
TC14PE has 5x8mm heatpipes, while DRP4 has 7x6mm heatpipes = 8mm heatpipes heat capacity transfer is bigger, now the responsiveness/rapidity is a question of debate.
Personaly I think (no proof) the more heatpipes, the better responsivness, BUT sinde I'm the owner of ThermalRight Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme, which has 8x6mm heatpipes, i can say this: the area which takes to fit all those 8x6mm heatpipes is too big for my AMD FX-9590, thus at least ~ 1x6mm heatpipe is over it's size, yeah contact plate does the transfer to the excess heatpipe/s but it's not efficient. And there are more 8x6mm heatpipe twin-tower cpu coolers: Alpenföhn K2, DeepCool Assassin II, akasa Venom Medusa, while 7x6mm are: bequiet DRP4, Cryorig R1 Ultimate, and mabe some more...
Though the most interesting one is Gelid Phantom, because it has 3x8mm and 4x6mm heatpipes in such layout:









and I think Gelid's aproach needs way more attention and a lot of our research/tests.
And as for me, i'm waiting for arrival of my TC14PE silver (a.k.a. white), and 2xNoctua Chromax A15 are on silver arrow waiting for the rightfull owner aswell and no, chromax A15s are not for their black colour, but due to their rpm, they max out at 1500rpm, while ordinary noctua colours A15 are just 1200rpm.
Just to point out, with DRP you are VERY limited in your fan sizes, if you can't mount 2x 140mm fans, don't look at it at all, beleave me, my bro's ThermalTake NiC C5 with 2xThermalRight TY-143 is amazing.
And as for the best cpu air cooler, it doesn't exist yet, my dream is coolermaster master air maker 8 with all 8 heatpipes directly coming from vapor chamber to twin-tower fin stacks. All cpu "liquid cooling" setups would be pwned once and for all AND you could efficiently do delided mounting.
And to challenge our air cooling guru doyll you should change your avatar, macho is far from beeing on the best list.
P.S.fan mounting is WAY over hyped, paper clip FTW! Kudos to the developer of them, just a briliant masterpeace, even in our hi-tech world! dram clearance is also a myth, just carefully remove the dram heatspreaders/heatsinks, leave them naked and watch how your fans mount in the most efficient cpu cooler's fin stack coverage, while your case's front fans will do the dram cooling job, that is if you are smart and removed any and all drive bay mounting stack in front of the upper half of your ATX motherboard...


----------



## ciarlatano

gedoze said:


> That's easy:
> Though the most interesting one is Gelid Phantom, because it has 3x8mm and 4x6mm heatpipes in such layout:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I think Gelid's aproach needs way more attention and a lot of our research/tests.


That multi-size heat pipe design was done by Xigmatek ~6 years ago (the Aegir is one of the first coolers that used it), and I believe the Gelid is a Xigmatek oem and design. We could research and test the design more.....but we might need a time machine to do it.


----------



## gedoze

ciarlatano said:


> That multi-size heat pipe design was done by Xigmatek ~6 years ago (the Aegir is one of the first coolers that used it), and I believe the Gelid is a Xigmatek oem and design. We could research and test the design more.....but we might need a time machine to do it.


the point is not about multi-size, but about the layout, 6x lower and 3x or 5x upper 6mm stacked layers probably would be a cheaper version of 8x6mm vapor chamber, but then again, it all depends how efficienlty heat comes to the upper stack, and without a proper research my claim is totaly invalid.


----------



## ciarlatano

gedoze said:


> the point is not about multi-size, but about the layout, 6x lower and 3x or 5x upper 6mm stacked layers probably would be a cheaper version of 8x6mm vapor chamber, but then again, it all depends how efficienlty heat comes to the upper stack, and without a proper research my claim is totaly invalid.


The Aegir used the stacked multi-size design, as did a few other Xigmateks. This is an old design that none of the top tier cooling companies emulated - I would imagine there is a reason for that. Gelid is not a top name in coolers, and they don't stack up performance wise to Phanteks, Noctua, Thermalright, etc. Neither did Xigmatek when things started progressing. So, dig around a bit and you will find the info. I'm sure FrostyTech tested some of the Xigmateks with this design, and they did well for their time, but they never held a candle to the D14, Silver Arrow, TC14PE, etc.

BTW - vapor chambers were a huge failure on CPU coolers, as well.


----------



## mablo

Is the 14PE compatible with AM4 mounting out of the box? Cannot find info on Phanteks site.


----------



## Himo5

It depends how old the stock you are being supplied from is.

If it comes with PH-F140HPII high pressure fans with the broad blades rather than the thin bladed originals then it will probably have Am3/4 and TR4 bracket sets - if you can see the bracket set before buying look for the double holes in the AM4 brackets.

However, be aware that these are still only for the horizontal fitting, as I pointed out in this post.

I have now sacrificed the Intel fitting to construct a vertical bracket though I am still waiting for some 8mm screws as the 12mm ones I have fitted it with are too long.

This has been fitted to an AM3 motherboard bracket but can be re-arranged to fit the AM4 bracket as well.

The bar was easily sawn through with a hacksaw then drilled with a 3.5mm twist drill for the AMD screws (after I had equalised the drilling distance with some acrylic pieces) and finished off with a Dremel sanding bit.


----------



## doyll

mablo said:


> Is the 14PE compatible with AM4 mounting out of the box? Cannot find info on Phanteks site.


Yeah, PhanteksUSA seems to now be an online sales site without specifications being listed. I can't find a compatibility list, even tried searching site for 'AM4' and 'compatibility' and found nothing. Phanteks international webite compatibility list for PH-TC14PE does not have AM4 on it. I have no idea how often they update the sites, but appears no cooler data updated for at least 16 months.


----------



## doyll

Just heard from Phanteks. All new coolers (ones manufactured after AM4 was released) come with AM4 mount. If you happen to buy one that has been setting on the shelf from before the change just email Phaneks customer support and ask for AM4 mount. Don't forget to include a copy (a photo-copy or copy of email if bought on web) of the purchase invoice of cooler and also one of AMD motherboard or AMD processor (so they know you have CPU that needs AM4 mount) and they will send you the mount.


----------



## mablo

Thanks guys. That helps. Still trying to decide what to cool my 2700x with. This cooler seems to be available at a good price, hence considering it. From my research it should fit a Define C. Right?


----------



## doyll

mablo said:


> Thanks guys. That helps. Still trying to decide what to cool my 2700x with. This cooler seems to be available at a good price, hence considering it. From my research it should fit a Define C. Right?


2700X has a TDP of 105 watt so not super hot. You should be fine but might need to upgrade the stock Dynamic X2 GP case fans with only 0.88mm H2O static pressure rating to something with about 1.5mm H2O pressure rating. Phanteks PH-F120MP are often on sale. Here in UK they are £7.49 each and are very good for case fans. Many people use them for radiator fans.  Their specs of 53.3 CFM, 25 dB (A), 1.72 mm H2O @ 1800rpm are deceptive because they flow against resistance better than most in the 800-1300rpm range where we use out fans 99% of the time. With fans like these you don't need exhaust fans, just 2-3x front intakes and maybe a bottom intake and you would have great case airflow at a nice low noise level. 

Depends on how tall your RAM is and where CPU socket is on your motherboard. 

Define C has 170mm CPU clearance so will clear cooler no problem, and PH-TC14PE bottom fin will clear 50mm tall RAM, but if RAM is more than about 35mm tall the front fan won't fit between RAM and case side. Case CPU clearance specification plus 5mm is total room for RAM and fan, so with a 140mm fan that fits over RAM you have 35mm of room for RAM .. or you could put fans on back of towers in pull/pull.


----------



## mablo

Thanks Doyll.

Currently my front intakes are occupied by 2 coolink switft2 and the arctic fan that came with the i33, currently on the processor. The tower is cooled by 2 nf-f12 in push-pull. On the back there's the original case fan. I also own 2x TY-140s and 2x scythe SM1425SL12L non pwm fans.

My thinking of the Phanteks cooler is that it is available at a good price of 60€. My other options were the Le grand macho 75€, aro-m14 52€, the nh-d15se 84€, the cryorig r1 78€ish, or maybe darkrock 72€ (pro 84€) 4. What would be your suggestion for cpu cooler?


----------



## doyll

mablo said:


> Thanks Doyll.
> 
> Currently my front intakes are occupied by 2 coolink switft2 and the arctic fan that came with the i33, currently on the processor. The tower is cooled by 2 nf-f12 in push-pull. On the back there's the original case fan. I also own 2x TY-140s and 2x scythe SM1425SL12L non pwm fans.
> 
> My thinking of the Phanteks cooler is that it is available at a good price of 60€. My other options were the Le grand macho 75€, aro-m14 52€, the nh-d15se 84€, the cryorig r1 78€ish, or maybe darkrock 72€ (pro 84€) 4. What would be your suggestion for cpu cooler?


Nothing wrong with PH-TC14PE. I'm about to do new batch of cooler testing and one will be the latest version of PH-TC14PE. It is as good as any of the others you have listed. Without knowing what case, motherboard and RAM you have it's hard to say what will fit. What motherboard and RAM do you have?


----------



## mablo

Case was the Define C, ram is Flare X CL14, the ones for amd, and if i remember correctly they are 40mm tall with their heatspreaders, mobo is an Asus x470 prime pro.


----------



## doyll

mablo said:


> Case was the Define C, ram is Flare X CL14, the ones for amd, and if i remember correctly they are 40mm tall with their heatspreaders, mobo is an Asus x470 prime pro.


Define C has 170mm CPU clearance so cooler will fit no problem but fan is too big to fit over RAM. Yeah, Flare X CL14 is 40mm tall RAM RAM in a case with 170mm CPU clearance only leave 135mm for fan, but you can use fans pull/pull on back of cooler towers. Asus X470 Prime has 84mm center CPU to near side of PCIe socket so no problems there. TRUE Spirit 140 Power specs say it's 171mm tall and all Fractal Define cases I've used had a few mm more clearance than spec. so it will fit, clear RAM and cools just as good and quiet .. and also usually less money.


----------



## mablo

doyll said:


> Define C has 170mm CPU clearance so cooler will fit no problem but fan is too big to fit over RAM. Yeah, Flare X CL14 is 40mm tall RAM RAM in a case with 170mm CPU clearance only leave 135mm for fan, but you can use fans pull/pull on back of cooler towers. Asus X470 Prime has 84mm center CPU to near side of PCIe socket so no problems there. TRUE Spirit 140 Power specs say it's 171mm tall and all Fractal Define cases I've used had a few mm more clearance than spec. so it will fit, clear RAM and cools just as good and quiet .. and also usually less money.


Is there any downside to pull / pull fan setup? In this case though the 140 Power is only 2 euros and change cheaper than the Phanteks. Thanks for your replies.


----------



## Himo5

In comparisons I have seen there is a very slight advantage in favour of Push over Pull - two degrees at the very most.
However, I haven't seen any tests done after long use when Fans pushing air into the HSF build up a layer of dust where the air enters the fin stack.


----------



## ciarlatano

Himo5 said:


> In comparisons I have seen there is a very slight advantage in favour of Push over Pull - two degrees at the very most.
> However, I haven't seen any tests done after long use when Fans pushing air into the HSF build up a layer of dust where the air enters the fin stack.


Are you thinking that somehow that same dust isn't going through the fins with the fan in pull?


----------



## Himo5

There's less of a build up because the dust has to change trajectory as it enters the fin stack whereas there is no resistance to the air coming out of the fin stack onto the fan blades.


----------



## doyll

mablo said:


> Is there any downside to pull / pull fan setup? In this case though the 140 Power is only 2 euros and change cheaper than the Phanteks. Thanks for your replies.


With most fans there is no difference. I have never been able to prove there was a difference, and most testing that shows 1-2c difference do not have accurate intake air temp monitoring .. meaning moving fan/s from push/push to pull/pull moves airflow into cooler back by 26mm and if the airflow into cooler is not being monitored it may be a degree or two warmer into cooler without fan on front. 

2 euro difference to me means I would choose whichever cooler I want based on looks. Both cool basically the same and are priced basically the same. TS140P is not as deep, but is taller and wider. 

Bit of trivia, when I've had coolers that touched case I use cabinet drawer/door bump stops (6mm D x 1mm domed self adhesive silicone pads) on end of tallest heatpipe or on inside of cover to stop vibration or scratching on plastic window. 



Himo5 said:


> There's less of a build up because the dust has to change trajectory as it enters the fin stack whereas there is no resistance to the air coming out of the fin stack onto the fan blades.


Can you let us know what the mind altering drug you using is? :applaud: Assuming it is legal. 

I don't think the amount of dust buildup on fins versus on fans is enough for 99.99% of us to ever see difference, especially if case as filters on it's intakes. :helpingha


----------



## Himo5

The PC in our workshop is in an extremely dusty environment and there has never been as much dust build up from HSF to fan as there was with fan to HSF.


----------



## ciarlatano

Himo5 said:


> There's less of a build up because the dust has to change trajectory as it enters the fin stack whereas there is no resistance to the air coming out of the fin stack onto the fan blades.


----------



## doyll

Himo5 said:


> The PC in our workshop is in an extremely dusty environment and there has never been as much dust build up from HSF to fan as there was with fan to HSF.


I assume you have a good compressor handy to blow it out when it starts running too hot?


----------



## Himo5

We use an old lilo foot pump. We could have got something better but it worked so well we never bothered - a good burst of dry air, strong or fine as you please. I clean the whole thing out every two months or so. No matter how much filtering I use the dust gets everywhere.


----------



## doyll

Himo5 said:


> We use an old lilo foot pump. We could have got something better but it worked so well we never bothered - a good burst of dry air, strong or fine as you please. I clean the whole thing out every two months or so. No matter how much filtering I use the dust gets everywhere.


Just out of curiosity, where on Earth are you? I assume it's very dry there.


----------



## Himo5

That PC is halfway between the circular saw and the wood lathe. It's as dry as a sponge.


----------



## gedoze

Hello all,
yesterday my brand new TC14PE white (with silver/chrome tops)has arrived, I can confirm that it includes brackets for AM4 socket. Though, it uses stock mobo backplate for AMD. So when my PSU will arrive from Japan, i'll be replacing my Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme with this. In the meantime i need to dig up my sabertooth fx990 r2 mobo box and find that stock backplate.
If i should compare the looks between tc14pe and silver arrow, phanteks looks more sturdy, higher quality, not so easy to bend fins. 
So basically i have 2x white 140mm phanteks fans who came with it, 2x orange/red ThermalRight's TY-143 who came with silver arrow, 2x black Noctua Chromax A15s with 1500rpm and 2x normal Noctua colours slow A15s with 1200rpm.
I plan on using 2 chromax fans, 1 on the front (ram heatsinks removed = low profile) and 1 in the middle. 
3rd fan is pointless, why you ask?
My CPU is AMD FX9590 = wattripper by itself, overclock it, and mobo vrm will also produce a lot of heat, block vrm with cpu cooler's 3rd fan = bad, 3rd fan in the back will produce turbulence because case's rear exhaust 120mm fan is just 3-5cm behind it = more noise.
Basically what I have learned from twin tower design CPU coolers:
probably the best CPU air cooler design, but they block mobo's vrm heatsinks from airflow, sollution: don't place 3rd fan on the back, better place fan/s on mobo's vrm heatsink/s.
P.S. this is probably main reason why i don't like macho design coolers or any air ducts behind any cpu cooler, all of these block vrm cooling.


----------



## doyll

gedoze said:


> Hello all,
> yesterday my brand new TC14PE white (with silver/chrome tops)has arrived, I can confirm that it includes brackets for AM4 socket. Though, it uses stock mobo backplate for AMD. So when my PSU will arrive from Japan, i'll be replacing my Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme with this. In the meantime i need to dig up my sabertooth fx990 r2 mobo box and find that stock backplate.
> If i should compare the looks between tc14pe and silver arrow, phanteks looks more sturdy, higher quality, not so easy to bend fins.
> So basically i have 2x white 140mm phanteks fans who came with it, 2x orange/red ThermalRight's TY-143 who came with silver arrow, 2x black Noctua Chromax A15s with 1500rpm and 2x normal Noctua colours slow A15s with 1200rpm.
> I plan on using 2 chromax fans, 1 on the front (ram heatsinks removed = low profile) and 1 in the middle.
> 3rd fan is pointless, why you ask?
> My CPU is AMD FX9590 = wattripper by itself, overclock it, and mobo vrm will also produce a lot of heat, block vrm with cpu cooler's 3rd fan = bad, 3rd fan in the back will produce turbulence because case's rear exhaust 120mm fan is just 3-5cm behind it = more noise.
> Basically what I have learned from twin tower design CPU coolers:
> probably the best CPU air cooler design, but they block mobo's vrm heatsinks from airflow, sollution: don't place 3rd fan on the back, better place fan/s on mobo's vrm heatsink/s.
> P.S. this is probably main reason why i don't like macho design coolers or any air ducts behind any cpu cooler, all of these block vrm cooling.


Sounds like a nice system. It will be interesting to see if PH-TC14PE is as good as Silver Arrow IB-E. The TY-143 2500rpm fans mean it can definitely cool better because of it's higher airflow at higher speeds, but if ran at same speed as A15s they move same amount of air. Looking at bottom of your PH-TC14PE, are the fins 1-piece or 2-piece)? The newest made are 1-piece. If your cooler has 1-piece fins, could you do some comparison testing of Silver Arrow IB-E and PH-TC14PE with fans running same speed? 
First image below is of 2-piece finned PH-TC14PE. You can see the seam line in center of fins to center of heatpipes. Second image is 1-piece. Notice there is no line/seam between the heatpipes. I'm not exactly sure when Phanteks changes from 2-piece to 1-piece, but all new ones have 1-piece fins, but there are still some older ones being sold. I would guess in the less popular colors.


----------



## gedoze

doyll said:


> Sounds like a nice system. It will be interesting to see if PH-TC14PE is as good as Silver Arrow IB-E. The TY-143 2500rpm fans mean it can definitely cool better because of it's higher airflow at higher speeds, but if ran at same speed as A15s they move same amount of air. Looking at bottom of your PH-TC14PE, are the fins 1-piece or 2-piece)? The newest made are 1-piece. If your cooler has 1-piece fins, could you do some comparison testing of Silver Arrow IB-E and PH-TC14PE with fans running same speed?
> First image below is of 2-piece finned PH-TC14PE. You can see the seam line in center of fins to center of heatpipes. Second image is 1-piece. Notice there is no line/seam between the heatpipes. I'm not exactly sure when Phanteks changes from 2-piece to 1-piece, but all new ones have 1-piece fins, but there are still some older ones being sold. I would guess in the less popular colors.


lol, i'm not a noob, physics degree...
Yes, my tc14pe has each of fin stacks as onepeace, which i think means hard pressed instead of 2-peace soldered. Am I right?
About these tests, yeah, i was thinking about similar comparison, but there are some obsticles:
#1 and major obsticale of these tests will be controlled room temperature, i don't have air conditioner in my flat/room, and the only way air is cycling is due to either open window/s or either due to open balcony or both. Sollution is to make or wait for similar ambient temperatures.
#2 i'm waiting for PSU to arrive from japan, so that i could effectively modify/build/rebuild in one go. The plan is to dismantle everything, convert PC case's front to 2x140 intakes, change mobo's vrm 2mm thick 8wm/k thermal pads to 0.5mm thick 17wm/k thermal pads. Maybe order more chromax a15s to go instead of reused normal a15s as intakes, change corsair's ml120 rear exhaust to noctua's new a12x25 (PSU sits near the top of the case = acts as another exhaust fan), also will need to order demciflex grill/mesh to cover 2xfrontal 140s, i also will need to find 2 proper fans for active vrm cooling, right now i'm reusing AMD stock coolers 2x 70mm and 10mm thick/height/tall AVC fans, both are different in amperage and rpm, though they perfectly fit/align, one side is ramming silver arrow's heatpipes, other side is ramming i think rear I/O's usb port hub, although I gues with tc14pe fitted i should craft a better sollution of fitting yet unknown side fans, and... 
I'm maybe wrong saying this, but i think i can unload some slight portion of mobo vrm heat, by using pwm psu powered splitters, I know that you doil said that akasa ones are not of the best quality, so gelid ones... but i want to power just 2 fans, from 1 such splitters (silver arrow came with such and it was like night and day when compared to using standart none psu powered spittler, at least rpm wise) and none are for sale, i have the tools and extra not used noctua standart splitters and low rpm adaptors who could become donors to crimp such splitters myself, but, first time I tryed, i couldn't fit 3 wires for pwm signal into 1 pin, just because of 3 cable insulation... I can try to strip more insulation and make "extra long" thermal shrinking insulation which would act both as insulation and as pin's crimping hold point.
Oh yes, and to make proper wattripper/heater build, i need Liquid Cooled rx vega 64, stripped and outfitted with heavily modded Alphacool NexXxos GPX so that it could fit under raijintek morpheus 2 with a ton load of best wm/k per different thickness thermal pads...
so yeah, it's a long project...
So to sum it all up, i'll keep these tests in mind, can't promise anything, due to the amount of time, it will require even to get to these tests


----------



## 8051

gedoze said:


> lol, i'm not a noob, physics degree...
> 
> Oh yes, and to make proper wattripper/heater build, i need Liquid Cooled rx vega 64, stripped and outfitted with heavily modded Alphacool NexXxos GPX so that it could fit under raijintek morpheus 2 with a ton load of best wm/k per different thickness thermal pads...
> so yeah, it's a long project...
> So to sum it all up, i'll keep these tests in mind, can't promise anything, due to the amount of time, it will require even to get to these tests


Are you going to have a AMD RX Vega 64 that's cooled by both a Raijintek Morpheus 2 AND a Alphacool NexXxos GPX at the same time?


----------



## doyll

gedoze said:


> lol, i'm not a noob, physics degree...
> Yes, my tc14pe has each of fin stacks as onepeace, which i think means hard pressed instead of 2-peace soldered. Am I right?
> About these tests, yeah, i was thinking about similar comparison, but there are some obsticles:
> #1 and major obsticale of these tests will be controlled room temperature, i don't have air conditioner in my flat/room, and the only way air is cycling is due to either open window/s or either due to open balcony or both. Sollution is to make or wait for similar ambient temperatures.
> #2 i'm waiting for PSU to arrive from japan, so that i could effectively modify/build/rebuild in one go. The plan is to dismantle everything, convert PC case's front to 2x140 intakes, change mobo's vrm 2mm thick 8wm/k thermal pads to 0.5mm thick 17wm/k thermal pads. Maybe order more chromax a15s to go instead of reused normal a15s as intakes, change corsair's ml120 rear exhaust to noctua's new a12x25 (PSU sits near the top of the case = acts as another exhaust fan), also will need to order demciflex grill/mesh to cover 2xfrontal 140s, i also will need to find 2 proper fans for active vrm cooling, right now i'm reusing AMD stock coolers 2x 70mm and 10mm thick/height/tall AVC fans, both are different in amperage and rpm, though they perfectly fit/align, one side is ramming silver arrow's heatpipes, other side is ramming i think rear I/O's usb port hub, although I gues with tc14pe fitted i should craft a better sollution of fitting yet unknown side fans, and...
> I'm maybe wrong saying this, but i think i can unload some slight portion of mobo vrm heat, by using pwm psu powered splitters, I know that you doil said that akasa ones are not of the best quality, so gelid ones... but i want to power just 2 fans, from 1 such splitters (silver arrow came with such and it was like night and day when compared to using standart none psu powered spittler, at least rpm wise) and none are for sale, i have the tools and extra not used noctua standart splitters and low rpm adaptors who could become donors to crimp such splitters myself, but, first time I tryed, i couldn't fit 3 wires for pwm signal into 1 pin, just because of 3 cable insulation... I can try to strip more insulation and make "extra long" thermal shrinking insulation which would act both as insulation and as pin's crimping hold point.
> Oh yes, and to make proper wattripper/heater build, i need Liquid Cooled rx vega 64, stripped and outfitted with heavily modded Alphacool NexXxos GPX so that it could fit under raijintek morpheus 2 with a ton load of best wm/k per different thickness thermal pads...
> so yeah, it's a long project...
> So to sum it all up, i'll keep these tests in mind, can't promise anything, due to the amount of time, it will require even to get to these tests


Didn't think you were a noob. :thumb:

I don't know if new 1-piece fins are soldered or not. It's why I asked how it compares to SA I-BE. 

Room temp is not as big a problem as knowing what the air temp into cooler is so tests are comparing cooler to cooler performance and not system performance with different coolers. As long as humidity is and temps are similar (+/-2c) CPU delta temp between cooler intake and CPU temps are accurate to within +/- 0.5c, which is as much tighter than most testing. 

Are there square A15 fans? I thought NF-A15s were 150x140mm. 

If you haven't read it, this basic guide to case airflow and how to set it up might be of interest:
http://www.overclock.net/forum/22319249-post5.html

I prefer good front to back flow with maybe bottom intake for GPU with all PCIe back slot covers removed to increase back vent area using good intake fans to push airflow through case instead of push/pull with both front and rear fans. I've found top fans usually do no good or hurt more than help. The straighter / smoother the front to back airflow is the less turbulence it creates and the less warmed air coming off of components mixes with the cool air cooling them. 

My experience is PWM hubs powered by PSU do not increase motherboard temps at all. The PWM power source is in each fan with the PWM control only switching it on/off. Only potential problem is trying to control too many fans causing the controller to not be able to do the on/of switching .. and that takes like 10+ fans.  I would splice 3+ PWM control leads into PWM plug lead 3-5cm from PWM plug so there is no problems with them flexing does not stress harden / stress fatigue lead at joint causing them to break lead from PWM plug. Or could you use PWM splitter hubs like Swiftech and Silverstone sell? I think they are the best way to go. 

No problems if you can't test. The 2-piece finned PH-TC14PE is not as good as Silver Arrow SB-E / IB-E buy a couple degrees, but maybe the new PH-F140HP_II fans will help and it will be as good now.  But I like the looks of PH-TC14PE better too.


----------



## gedoze

8051 said:


> Are you going to have a AMD RX Vega 64 that's cooled by both a Raijintek Morpheus 2 AND a Alphacool NexXxos GPX at the same time?


Why ofcourse, that's the plan. Morpheus for vega gpu die and gpx with removed gpu die block, after heavily modification, would become best vrm heatsink and backplate is already like a heatsink  the tricky part would be to make room to squaze it around and onto gpx. 
But first need to find a brand new lc vega 64 for sale... Thank you miners! (with a lot of bad words in my mind)
actually the real question should have been why I want to convert liquid cooled vega to air cooled vega... 


doyll said:


> Didn't think you were a noob. :thumb:
> 
> I don't know if new 1-piece fins are soldered or not. It's why I asked how it compares to SA I-BE.
> 
> Room temp is not as big a problem as knowing what the air temp into cooler is so tests are comparing cooler to cooler performance and not system performance with different coolers. As long as humidity is and temps are similar (+/-2c) CPU delta temp between cooler intake and CPU temps are accurate to within +/- 0.5c, which is as much tighter than most testing.
> 
> Are there square A15 fans? I thought NF-A15s were 150x140mm.
> 
> If you haven't read it, this basic guide to case airflow and how to set it up might be of interest:
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/22319249-post5.html
> 
> I prefer good front to back flow with maybe bottom intake for GPU with all PCIe back slot covers removed to increase back vent area using good intake fans to push airflow through case instead of push/pull with both front and rear fans. I've found top fans usually do no good or hurt more than help. The straighter / smoother the front to back airflow is the less turbulence it creates and the less warmed air coming off of components mixes with the cool air cooling them.
> 
> My experience is PWM hubs powered by PSU do not increase motherboard temps at all. The PWM power source is in each fan with the PWM control only switching it on/off. Only potential problem is trying to control too many fans causing the controller to not be able to do the on/of switching .. and that takes like 10+ fans.  I would splice 3+ PWM control leads into PWM plug lead 3-5cm from PWM plug so there is no problems with them flexing does not stress harden / stress fatigue lead at joint causing them to break lead from PWM plug. Or could you use PWM splitter hubs like Swiftech and Silverstone sell? I think they are the best way to go.
> 
> No problems if you can't test. The 2-piece finned PH-TC14PE is not as good as Silver Arrow SB-E / IB-E buy a couple degrees, but maybe the new PH-F140HP_II fans will help and it will be as good now.  But I like the looks of PH-TC14PE better too.


Yep NF-A15s are in 150x140x25 sizes, but there are two versions, original noctua colours nf-a15s have 1200rpm max, while chromax(black) nf-a15s have 1500rpm max, so static pressure and cfm parameters are better too, pardon there are three versions, there are A15s in original colours with 1500rpm max, but they only come with noctua cpu coolers, you can't buy them seperatly.
Ye, brainstorming here: logically - straight front to back would be better, or even better and most efficient way for airflow would be straight bottom to top, common physics a.k.a. thermal dynamics... but there is an obstacle - gpu, sollution is to use gpu pci-e extension cable (or whatever it's called...) and mount gpu verticaly, but then should come another problem, bottom fans should be really good pushing air to top since gpu is very hot(and now, since mounted verticaly, heatsink is very slim), so you might think adding fans to the vertical gpu = side of the case, but that should create turbulence. So the only real sollution to not disrupt the perfect vertical airflow, would be to create separate gpu vertical airflow, like ~30cm extra mobo's lenght.
Ye, pwm hub/s are the easiest way, but i don't like the idea of different parameter fans operating from a hub, in my case that would be 1x120m nf-a12x25(exhaust) + 2xchromax nf-a15s(cpu heatsink fans) +2xstandart a15s(case intake) or 4xchromax a15s (cpu heatsink and case intake).
and yes, doyll, our aircooling guru and liquid aswell (I wonder how many of you undrestand why), my pci-e back slot covers are removed thanks to your insight on both of my case and my bro's


----------



## doyll

gedoze said:


> Why ofcourse, that's the plan. Morpheus for vega gpu die and gpx with removed gpu die block, after heavily modification, would become best vrm heatsink and backplate is already like a heatsink  the tricky part would be to make room to squaze it around and onto gpx.
> But first need to find a brand new lc vega 64 for sale... Thank you miners! (with a lot of bad words in my mind)
> actually the real question should have been why I want to convert liquid cooled vega to air cooled vega...
> 
> Yep NF-A15s are in 150x140x25 sizes, but there are two versions, original noctua colours nf-a15s have 1200rpm max, while chromax(black) nf-a15s have 1500rpm max, so static pressure and cfm parameters are better too, pardon there are three versions, there are A15s in original colours with 1500rpm max, but they only come with noctua cpu coolers, you can't buy them seperatly.
> Ye, brainstorming here: logically - straight front to back would be better, or even better and most efficient way for airflow would be straight bottom to top, common physics a.k.a. thermal dynamics... but there is an obstacle - gpu, sollution is to use gpu pci-e extension cable (or whatever it's called...) and mount gpu verticaly, but then should come another problem, bottom fans should be really good pushing air to top since gpu is very hot(and now, since mounted verticaly, heatsink is very slim), so you might think adding fans to the vertical gpu = side of the case, but that should create turbulence. So the only real sollution to not disrupt the perfect vertical airflow, would be to create separate gpu vertical airflow, like ~30cm extra mobo's lenght.
> Ye, pwm hub/s are the easiest way, but i don't like the idea of different parameter fans operating from a hub, in my case that would be 1x120m nf-a12x25(exhaust) + 2xchromax nf-a15s(cpu heatsink fans) +2xstandart a15s(case intake) or 4xchromax a15s (cpu heatsink and case intake).
> and yes, doyll, our aircooling guru and liquid aswell (I wonder how many of you undrestand why), my pci-e back slot covers are removed thanks to your insight on both of my case and my bro's


Yup, normal baby poo brown NF-A15s supplied with coolers are 1500rpm, all retail models are 1200rpm. Chromax A15 are 1500rpm. Most people don't realize the baby poo brown are not all the same. :thumb:

Mounting GPU on riser definitely gives more airflow options. I don't thing vertical is better than horizontal unless case mounts motherboard rotated 90 degrees lke some Silverstone cases do. Thermal dynamics 'heated air rises' is only applicable when no fans are involved. Even a weak fan easily overpowers any possibility of expanded air rising. 

3 of my 5 systems have back vent grills removed and the two with bottom vents grills as well. Definitely gives smoother airflow resulting in more airflow and quieter too. 

If using a rear exhaust fan I always use one that has same or higher specs than CPU cooler fans with speed control sync'ed with them so rear exhaust fan is moving at least as much air as cooler at all times. As a general rule less fans give smoother airflow which usually give lower temps and noise .. as long as case fans move more air than component fans.

Bit of trivia, if we have a bunch of fans wit same 35dB(A) noise level, 
1 is 35dB(A)
2 are 3dB(A) louder than 1 for a total of 38dB(A)
3 are 4.8dB(A) louder than 1 (1.8dB(A) louder than 2) total of 39.8dB(A)
4 are 6.0dB(A) louder than 1 (1.2dB(A) louder than 3) total of 41.0dB(A)
5 are 7.0dB(A) louder than 1 (1.0dB(A) louder than 4) total of 42.0dB(A)
6 are 7.8dB(A) louder than 1 (0.8dB(A) louder than 5) total of 42.8dB(A)
7 are 8.5dB(A) louder than 1 (0.7dB(A) louder than 6) total of 43.5dB(A)
8 are 9.0dB(A) louder than 1 (0.5dB(A) louder than 7) total of 44.0dB(A)
9 are 9.5dB(A) louder than 1 (0.5dB(A) louder than 8) total of 44.5dB(A)
10 are 10.0dB(A) louder than 1 (0.5dB(A) louder than 9) total of 45.0dB(A)
12 are 10.8dB(A) louder than 1 (0.8dB(A) louder than 10) total of 45.8dB(A)
16 are 12.0dB(A) louder than 1 (1.2dB|(A) louder than	12) total of 47.0dB(A)
20 are 13.0dB(A) louder than 1 (1.0dB(A) louder than 16) total of 48dB(A)​But of course venting grills, things blocking / reflecting the sound, distance away, etc. all come into play lowering the sound level a little too.

Sengplelaudio has calculators for figuring out these things
http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-spl.htm


----------



## Himo5

Aargh! This matter of a vertical AMD fitting is coming up in the posts faster than I can get the time to solve it. As a result I hadn't been aware that in the vertical position the heatpipes intrude more between the bracket arms. 


So after the expenditure of more elbow grease I have a set of bracket extensions that actually work and an old FM2 board to demonstrate it.


Getting the brackets screwed together exactly right is still a fiddly job, bearing in mind that you will spot it if the cooler is even a millimetre out of alignment. I'm certainly beginning to think that socket head screws would be better than cross slot, even if it gives a non-plated appearance.


----------



## doyll

So your AM4 kit didn't have these pieces?

















That is a lot of work to get the mount to fit.


----------



## Himo5

Unfortunately, no - as I pointed out in this post, and this post, even after I took the trouble to order last year's offer of the AM4 Upgrade Kit - and, yes, it is a bit much for anyone to go through when there is no mention in any advert or review of these Phanteks air coolers (not just the PH-TC14PE) that they have no vertical AMD fitting.


The market has got so used to the assumption that there is no serious application available that did not require a graphics card that the matter of a vertical AMD fitting was never raised.


I think Vega 11 on the R5-2400G - and certainly the next APU generation in Ryzen beyond that - is going to change that perspective.


----------



## doyll

Himo5 said:


> Unfortunately, no - as I pointed out in this post, and this post, even after I took the trouble to order last year's offer of the AM4 Upgrade Kit - and, yes, it is a bit much for anyone to go through when there is no mention in any advert or review of these Phanteks air coolers (not just the PH-TC14PE) that they have no vertical AMD fitting.
> 
> 
> The market has got so used to the assumption that there is no serious application available that did not require a graphics card that the matter of a vertical AMD fitting was never raised.
> 
> 
> I think Vega 11 on the R5-2400G - and certainly the next APU generation in Ryzen beyond that - is going to change that perspective.


Sorry, I just skimmed through those posts. My bad. 
The images I posted where what Phanteks did when they first offered AM4 mount upgrades, and not having an AM4 system and not getting one of the the only new (redone) coolers (the PH-TC14PE you have) Phanteks has released sense AM4 I never paid any attention to what mount was included assuming it was what they had shown when they announced the AM4 mount upgrades. You are being more laid back then I probably would be if I was in your shoes. :thumb: Not really inspiring info about Phanteks, is it.


----------



## Himo5

When nobody notices something in 5 years - at least, not enough to mention it at all, anywhere, ever - you have to say the omission of such a bracket is completely understandable. This is my third 14PE - all for use on AMD boards - and the first time I even noticed it. 


However, Phanteks had probably better wake up to it now and do something because you find APU owners looking for high grade air coolers everywhere.


----------



## doyll

Himo5 said:


> When nobody notices something in 5 years - at least, not enough to mention it at all, anywhere, ever - you have to say the omission of such a bracket is completely understandable. This is my third 14PE - all for use on AMD boards - and the first time I even noticed it.
> 
> 
> However, Phanteks had probably better wake up to it now and do something because you find APU owners looking for high grade air coolers everywhere.


AM4 came out early 2017, so only 16-17 months ago, not 5 year ago. 
PH-TC14PE came out January 2011 so over 7 years old, but of course we didn't have much in the way of outstanding AMD processors until a year ago January when Ryzen came out.


----------



## Himo5

It was as much an AM3 as an AM4 issue - my impression, in fact, is that after the initial AM4 Upgrade Kit offer supply arrangements reverted to the AM3 policy.


----------



## doyll

Himo5 said:


> It was as much an AM3 as an AM4 issue - my impression, in fact, is that after the initial AM4 Upgrade Kit offer supply arrangements reverted to the AM3 policy.


Sadly I think you are correct. 

I wonder 
(thinking while I text) 
how hard it would be to make up something like the Chromax cover for D15, D15S for Silver Arrow IB-E Cut and glue some short tube pieces that fit over heatpipes and some front / back strips same heigth to a top piece with sides to bottom of fins, then slip them onto Silver Arrow finpacks. 

Stuff some TP into gap around fan motor on TY-143 fans so spray paint doesn't get into motor and black we have black TY-143 fans .. best paint would be something that sticks to vinyl/plastic.


----------



## Himo5

I wonder if Phanteks could have found a formula that made financial sense for how many vertical brackets they needed to make beyond the initial period of the offer. Perhaps they decided to watch OCN boards and wait for someone to notice

Those Chromax covers have always fascinated me as regards the effect that case fans at right angles to the finstack have on the internal airflow - do they just disrupt it or is there an additional extraction factor?

As for those Ty143s there was a moment when I found I could dye the Phanteks PH-F140HPIIs just by dipping them in the dye bath for a couple of minutes when I was sorely tempted to order some black Idye Poly.


----------



## doyll

Himo5 said:


> I wonder if Phanteks could have found a formula that made financial sense for how many vertical brackets they needed to make beyond the initial period of the offer. Perhaps they decided to watch OCN boards and wait for someone to notice
> 
> Those Chromax covers have always fascinated me as regards the effect that case fans at right angles to the finstack have on the internal airflow - do they just disrupt it or is there an additional extraction factor?
> 
> As for those Ty143s there was a moment when I found I could dye the Phanteks PH-F140HPIIs just by dipping them in the dye bath for a couple of minutes when I was sorely tempted to order some black Idye Poly.


Hard to guess what Phanteks thinks. The changed cases fans from PH-F140SP to no model fans hand have never updated website with new case fans or their specs. Strange but true.

As case fan airflow through cooler when mounted like you are versus horizontal and how cooler fan airflow might be effected by case fan airflow, I doubt it makes much difference because cooler fans easily overpower any effect of case fan airflow .. that is assuming cooler fans are receiving cool airflow.


----------



## stllletto

*Sorry Guys*

I tried searching through this ginormous thread.....

I am upgrading from a 4770k to an 8700K and am still rocking the Phanteks PH-14PE.

Why is it that no one ever includes this cooler in the top coolers anymore?
I am pretty sure that it is sufficient to cool my 8700k clocked at 5ghz
I am however, replacing the 140mm fans with some 120mm Phanteks high pressure fans.

I am doing so for Ram clearance issues

Just curious of thoughts.....


----------



## doyll

stllletto said:


> I tried searching through this ginormous thread.....
> 
> I am upgrading from a 4770k to an 8700K and am still rocking the Phanteks PH-14PE.
> 
> Why is it that no one ever includes this cooler in the top coolers anymore?
> I am pretty sure that it is sufficient to cool my 8700k clocked at 5ghz
> I am however, replacing the 140mm fans with some 120mm Phanteks high pressure fans.
> 
> I am doing so for Ram clearance issues
> 
> Just curious of thoughts.....


The PH-TC14PE is definitely one of the top coolers. I don't know what fans you have because they have used 3 different fans over the years. First was PH-F140TC variable voltage, then PH-F140HP PWM and now PH-F140HP_II which are round version of PH-F140MP .. and PH-F140MP / PH-F140HP_II are high pressure fans. 

Could you use stock fans mounted pull / pull? Pull / pull solves front RAM in front and have same performance as push / push. 

If you change to 120mm fans you will drop maximum airflow fron 68cfm to 53cfm which means you will not have as much cooling ability because you won't have as much airflow. 

Don't forget that the case fans included with many cases are not much good and usually do not have enough fans even if they are good.


----------



## ciarlatano

stllletto said:


> I tried searching through this ginormous thread.....
> 
> I am upgrading from a 4770k to an 8700K and am still rocking the Phanteks PH-14PE.
> 
> Why is it that no one ever includes this cooler in the top coolers anymore?
> I am pretty sure that it is sufficient to cool my 8700k clocked at 5ghz
> I am however, replacing the 140mm fans with some 120mm Phanteks high pressure fans.
> 
> I am doing so for Ram clearance issues
> 
> Just curious of thoughts.....


If you are doing the fan swap purely for RAM clearance, I would suggest only changing the front to 120mm. Or.....use center and rear with the original 140mm. As @doyll pointed out, you will be losing a lot of airflow and gaining some noise going to the 120mm.

Also, the TC14PE is regularly mentioned as being one of the top air coolers on the market.


----------



## 8051

stllletto said:


> I tried searching through this ginormous thread.....
> 
> I am upgrading from a 4770k to an 8700K and am still rocking the Phanteks PH-14PE.
> 
> Why is it that no one ever includes this cooler in the top coolers anymore?
> I am pretty sure that it is sufficient to cool my 8700k clocked at 5ghz
> I am however, replacing the 140mm fans with some 120mm Phanteks high pressure fans.
> 
> I am doing so for Ram clearance issues
> 
> Just curious of thoughts.....


I did this for the same reason (RAM clearance) but I used a powerful delta 120x38mm vaneaxial fan w/60mm of fan shroud.


----------



## stllletto

ciarlatano said:


> If you are doing the fan swap purely for RAM clearance, I would suggest only changing the front to 120mm. Or.....use center and rear with the original 140mm. As @doyll pointed out, you will be losing a lot of airflow and gaining some noise going to the 120mm.
> 
> Also, the TC14PE is regularly mentioned as being one of the top air coolers on the market.


That may actually be what I do. I ordered a :
Phanteks PH-F120MP 120 mm PWM, High Static Pressure Radiator Fan For the front fan.

I don't think I should lose too much airflow considering the 140mm fan had to be moved up rather far to clear the ram.

I think after 5 years I should probably replace the others as well but am unsure which fan to actually use now.

I have read all of the reviews of CPU coolers in the last few years and watched all the youtube videos....Phanteks is just never included in the best
cpu coolers anymore, even though we know they are just as good as just about anything else out there.....just seems like they are forgotten!!!
Kinda sad since they are so good.


----------



## doyll

stllletto said:


> That may actually be what I do. I ordered a :
> Phanteks PH-F120MP 120 mm PWM, High Static Pressure Radiator Fan For the front fan.
> 
> I don't think I should lose too much airflow considering the 140mm fan had to be moved up rather far to clear the ram.
> 
> I think after 5 years I should probably replace the others as well but am unsure which fan to actually use now.
> 
> I have read all of the reviews of CPU coolers in the last few years and watched all the youtube videos....Phanteks is just never included in the best
> cpu coolers anymore, even though we know they are just as good as just about anything else out there.....just seems like they are forgotten!!!
> Kinda sad since they are so good.


PH-F120MP flows 16% less air, has 24% less static pressure and has 37% less airflow area than PH-F140HP_II fan (new fans on PH-TC14PE), so unless not just the front fan, but both 140mm fans have more than 1/3rd of their area above the cooler a couple of the newer PH-F140HP_II will out-perform PH-F120MP by a very significant margin on PH-TC14PE cooler. 


And before you put your new PH-F120MP fans on and tell us they are better than your original PH-F140TS or HP fans, let me point out those old cooler fans flows 25% less air and has 50% more static pressure than newer PH-F140HP_II. 

Most reviews I read have Phanteks coolers in them. Maybe the ones you see are newer reviewers and weren't around when Phanteks coolers came out.


----------



## stllletto

Thank you I just found those fans on Amazon, and cheaper than the 120mm....did not know they existed!
My cooler came with 1st gen PWM fans.

What I will probably do is get two of those for the middle and back if clearance allows with the exhaust fan....it should, I also upgraded my case.
The 120mm I ordered will go on the front.

You are right about the newer reviewers, but my point is that they still mention of course the Noctua and silver arrow etc......they need to revisit the Phanteks!


----------



## doyll

stllletto said:


> Thank you I just found those fans on Amazon, and cheaper than the 120mm....did not know they existed!
> My cooler came with 1st gen PWM fans.
> 
> What I will probably do is get two of those for the middle and back if clearance allows with the exhaust fan....it should, I also upgraded my case.
> The 120mm I ordered will go on the front.
> 
> You are right about the newer reviewers, but my point is that they still mention of course the Noctua and silver arrow etc......they need to revisit the Phanteks!


No problem. Glad it helped.

Yeah, Phanteks 1st gen PWM 140mm cooler fan is 2nd gen cooler fan because very 1st gen coolers came with variable voltage fan with same speed and performance as your old ones. 

Phanteks's last 'new cooler' was the PH-TC14S which was a down-sized TC14PE and not much good. Phanteks has kinda moved into custom loop water cooling components and doing good stuff there. But custom loop costs several times what good air cooling even with needing to buy a few good case fans. 

Yeah, Silver Arrow and NH-D14 are legends, so of course they are mentioned. Actually most talk is about Silver Arrow IB-E. Silver Arrow SB-E was before that about time PH-TC14PE came out, and before that was Silver Arrow. I suspect the Noctua mentioned are NH-D15 and NH-D15S, both newer releases than PH-TC14PE.

Don't forget to turn your case airflow. Most cases either come with lousy case fans, not enough case fans or both. Here is link to a basic guide to case airflow and how to get it working properly.
http://www.overclock.net/forum/22319249-post5.html


----------



## 8051

On my two-piece fin stack on my ph-tc14pe the fin stack to which I have my 120x38mm delta 6000RPM fan zip tie bolted the bottom most two fins are loose and one of them has fallen off. It's obvious on examining the fins that fell off they aren't soldered -- at least on the bottom (i.e. closest to the CPU heat spreader).


----------



## stllletto

*So it is all together*

Have The Phanteks on my 8700K. Clocked to 4.9GHZ with 1.305V. Temperatures are high, maxing out at 81 deg in Prime 95 small fft.

I think this is too high personally?
5GHZ is out of the question.

I am curious, should the heatsink or heat pipes feel cold to the touch under heavy load?
Mine do.....Just saying.


----------



## doyll

stllletto said:


> Have The Phanteks on my 8700K. Clocked to 4.9GHZ with 1.305V. Temperatures are high, maxing out at 81 deg in Prime 95 small fft.
> 
> I think this is too high personally?
> 5GHZ is out of the question.
> 
> I am curious, should the heatsink or heat pipes feel cold to the touch under heavy load?
> Mine do.....Just saying.


Heatpipes never feel hot because of how they work. Here is links to how heatpipes work:
http://www.overclock.net/forum/23801390-post83.html


----------



## stllletto

doyll said:


> Heatpipes never feel hot because of how they work. Here is links to how heatpipes work:
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/23801390-post83.html


Thanks again, your info has been very helpful.

I guess that the heatsink stays cold because it is just so efficient....it could probably do more if it could actually have better access to the actual die, so a delidding may be the next step. I am on a quest for 5gz, and I do not think that a better cooler is the answer


----------



## doyll

stllletto said:


> Thanks again, your info has been very helpful.
> 
> I guess that the heatsink stays cold because it is just so efficient....it could probably do more if it could actually have better access to the actual die, so a delidding may be the next step. I am on a quest for 5gz, and I do not think that a better cooler is the answer


 If the surface of heatpipe was to warm up much it would slow down the cooling action which would slow down the phase changing pumping action that's moving the heated vapor away from heat source .. in other words hinder the heatpipe's function. 

What is the temp of air flowing into cooler? Ideal is 2-3c, definitely not more than 5c above room because every degree warmer the air is translates almost exactly into a degree hotter component is under heavy load. 

You might find this basic guide to case airflow and how to optimize it of interest.
http://www.overclock.net/forum/22319249-post5.html


----------



## Vario

Is there a preference between the one or two piece fin stack design? I have the two piece and am looking at getting a one piece one for a second computer.


----------



## D13mass

Hi, guys! 

I have a question regarding compatible Phanteks tc14pe with my case and TridentZ ram. 

I have Fractal Design Meshify C White case and this RAM https://gskill.com/en/product/f4-3000c15d-32gtz. Case can put only 172mm height cooling system, phanteks is 171mm, but I am afraid that ram is to high.
Will it fit or I should move front fan to back of cooling system, something like this picture https://www.overclock.net/photopost/data/1263651/1/12/123de5a7_20160307_235129.jpeg 
Will it affect cooling ?


----------



## doyll

D13mass said:


> Hi, guys!
> 
> I have a question regarding compatible Phanteks tc14pe with my case and TridentZ ram.
> 
> I have Fractal Design Meshify C White case and this RAM https://gskill.com/en/product/f4-3000c15d-32gtz. Case can put only 172mm height cooling system, phanteks is 171mm, but I am afraid that ram is to high.
> Will it fit or I should move front fan to back of cooling system, something like this picture https://www.overclock.net/photopost/data/1263651/1/12/123de5a7_20160307_235129.jpeg
> Will it affect cooling ?


Your G.Skill Trident Z will fit under PH-TC14PE fins wiht no problems. 

What you will have problems with is front fan will not fit between RAM and case. 172mm CPU clearance / cooler clearance is 188mm motherboard to case and Trident Z extends 47mm above motherboard leaving only 125mm for fan on front of cooler. This leaves you with 2 options; run with only middle fan which will only raise temps a degree or two or mount the fans in pull / pull with fan in middle mounted to front finpack and back fan mounted on back or back fin pack. 

G.Skill Trident Z is 44mm tall so their top is 47mm above surface of motherboard. Top of CPU is 16mm above surface of motherboard so top of Trident Z is 31mm above top of CPU. Bottom of PH-TC14PE bottom fins are 47 mm above CPU and the little tabs on bottom fins extend 2mm below fin leaving us with 45mm from top of CPU to bottom of fin tabs. 

Here is an old dimensional drawing of PH-TC14PE cooler i did when they first case out.


----------



## D13mass

doyll said:


> Your G.Skill Trident Z will fit under PH-TC14PE fins wiht no problems.
> 
> What you will have problems with is front fan will not fit between RAM and case. 172mm CPU clearance / cooler clearance is 188mm motherboard to case and Trident Z extends 47mm above motherboard leaving only 125mm for fan on front of cooler. This leaves you with 2 options; run with only middle fan which will only raise temps a degree or two or mount the fans in pull / pull with fan in middle mounted to front finpack and back fan mounted on back or back fin pack.
> 
> G.Skill Trident Z is 44mm tall so their top is 47mm above surface of motherboard. Top of CPU is 16mm above surface of motherboard so top of Trident Z is 31mm above top of CPU. Bottom of PH-TC14PE bottom fins are 47 mm above CPU and the little tabs on bottom fins extend 2mm below fin leaving us with 45mm from top of CPU to bottom of fin tabs.
> 
> Here is an old dimensional drawing of PH-TC14PE cooler i did when they first case out.


Thanks a lot for such a comprehensive answer!
I will "mount the fans in pull / pull with fan in middle mounted to front finpack and back fan mounted on back or back fin pack. "


----------



## D13mass

Ok, it matched perfect (Fractal Design Meshify C + Phanteks PH-TC14PE Black)


----------



## D13mass

Hi, guys! I bought new motherboard and can not install second fan in pull mode (as my previous picture), so decided to turn my Phanteks PH-TC14PE to 90 degrees, as on the next picture:
https://cdn.pcpartpicker.com/static...636.2455d090abffd90213c8c023cc0a4023.1600.jpg 
Does anybody know how it will affect performance?


----------



## ciarlatano

D13mass said:


> Hi, guys! I bought new motherboard and can not install second fan in pull mode (as my previous picture), so decided to turn my Phanteks PH-TC14PE to 90 degrees, as on the next picture:
> https://cdn.pcpartpicker.com/static...636.2455d090abffd90213c8c023cc0a4023.1600.jpg
> Does anybody know how it will affect performance?


Mounted like that it is pulling air right off the back of the GPU, which will be warmer than what it can get from front intakes. You would likely be better off with standard orientation. Can you fit the rear exhaust fan if only the center fan is on the 14PE? If it is that close, the exhaust fan will act like a pull fan.


----------



## Himo5

Mounting a PH-TC14PE vertically with the fans blowing upwards and a graphics card installed could only work as a cooling solution if the graphics card is mounted elsewhere in the case using risers.
The only other use for a vertical mounting would be with an AMD APU, but then you have a problem with the mounting plates, since only the square pattern of the Intel mounting holes allow both vertical and horizontal mountings and Phanteks don't supply vertical mounting plates for AMD models, which have a rectangular hole pattern.
The Scythe Mugen 4 has a vertical mounting plate for AM3 motherboards which can be made to fit the PH-TC14PE by adding a pair of m3 screws to turn the connection for the HSF from female to male, but the only motherboard on the market that could run a Ryzen APU like that is the ASUS X370-F which has mounting holes for both AM3 and AM4.


----------



## D13mass

ciarlatano said:


> Mounted like that it is pulling air right off the back of the GPU, which will be warmer than what it can get from front intakes. You would likely be better off with standard orientation. Can you fit the rear exhaust fan if only the center fan is on the 14PE? If it is that close, the exhaust fan will act like a pull fan.


Now only one possible solution for me with standard orientation as on the next picture - 








Glass on my meshify c can't be closed if I installed front or rear 140mm fan on cooler.
If vertical orientation is warmer then standard horizontal, maybe I should leave standard orientation with middle stock fan + add 120mm fan on front or rear, I have few EK Vardar 120 and Phobya Eloop .


----------



## Owterspace

Are you sure you don't have enough room to mount your fans properly? It looks like you do. I snapped a profile of mine, the ziptie is literally a few thousandths from the glass, but my pipes have bout a mm or so.


----------



## D13mass

Owterspace said:


> Are you sure you don't have enough room to mount your fans properly? It looks like you do. I snapped a profile of mine, the ziptie is literally a few thousandths from the glass, but my pipes have bout a mm or so.


Yes, I am sure, already checked it, rear fan will fit only if motherboard has no heatsink, front can't fit because of ram.
So, will try to install 120mm fans on front and rear, in middle will have stock.
You can see on photos.


----------



## Owterspace

Booo.

That's like my old D14, useless. New case, or new cooler time! Id probably go with a new cooler so it can be used properly.


----------



## D13mass

Owterspace said:


> Booo.
> 
> That's like my old D14, useless. New case, or new cooler time! Id probably go with a new cooler so it can be used properly.


I like my Fractal Meshify C and I have pretty good cooler for my delided 8700k, don't see reason why I should change it and for which one?!


----------



## doyll

Just use the middle fan. Running with a single fan in middle only raises temps 1-3c maximum. The slower the fan spins the greater the difference, so at full load/full speed your temps are only 1-2c higher than with 2 fans.


----------



## D13mass

doyll said:


> Just use the middle fan. Running with a single fan in middle only raises temps 1-3c maximum. The slower the fan spins the greater the difference, so at full load/full speed your temps are only 1-2c higher than with 2 fans.


Really? So, probably I should leave only one fan.


----------



## doyll

D13mass said:


> Really? So, probably I should leave only one fan.


You might improve temps with better front intake case fans. The stock Meshify Dynamic X2 GP-12 case fans only have a pressure rating of 0.88mm H2O. Decent case fans have a pressure rating of 1.3mm H2O or more. I suggest getting a 2-pack of PH-F140MP fans which cost 16.26 UK pound for front intakes. Block all openings in front fan panel so none of the air being pushed into case can leak back into the front. Check your area for similar value.
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/two-...140mm-fan-radiator-performance-bu-003-pt.html


----------



## D13mass

doyll said:


> You might improve temps with better front intake case fans. The stock Meshify Dynamic X2 GP-12 case fans only have a pressure rating of 0.88mm H2O. Decent case fans have a pressure rating of 1.3mm H2O or more. I suggest getting a 2-pack of PH-F140MP fans which cost 16.26 UK pound for front intakes. Block all openings in front fan panel so none of the air being pushed into case can leak back into the front. Check your area for similar value.
> https://www.overclockers.co.uk/two-...140mm-fan-radiator-performance-bu-003-pt.html


In front I have now Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-PS x 2 and they work in range 400-800 RPM. I use only one stock fan now - it is in rear of case (first photo, fan with phanteks rgb frame after cpu cooler), second stock fan somewhere in box.
By the way, in my water build I had PH-F140MP - they are awful, very loud, only good thing - they can start from 500 RPM, so I used them in 535 RPM always.

PS I was talking about this post https://www.overclock.net/forum/27996510-post2884.html do not know why forum first time cut letter 'S' from my posts and changed to s


----------



## doyll

You are one of a rare few who say PH-F140MP are loud. No idea why we have your few, maybe something to do with fan mounting position, as in near a grill or mesh that blade design does not work well with. I've seen several posts with strange text instead of proper working the last couple days.


----------



## ciarlatano

doyll said:


> You are one of a rare few who say PH-F140MP are loud.


I'm not sure I've seen anyone say it before.


----------



## doyll

ciarlatano said:


> I'm not sure I've seen anyone say it before.


There are a couple members of another forum who said it. No idea how they can think they are loud unless they are running them much faster than their previous fan ran, but up to 1100-1200rpm they definitely make less noise then most other fans at similar speed.


----------



## D13mass

doyll said:


> You are one of a rare few who say PH-F140MP are loud. No idea why we have your few, maybe something to do with fan mounting position, as in near a grill or mesh that blade design does not work well with. I've seen several posts with strange text instead of proper working the last couple days.


Honestly, I don`t remember good idiom in English, but I had 9 these fans ( I had 3 - 420mm radiators) and when they were working in 535RPM I was happy, but when I decided to switch to air I left only 4 these 'perfect' fans in my current case and I was surprised by how they make noise, even not air noise - motor noise on 650+ RPM I could hear them.
Also, everybody praises EK Vardar, so I bought 2 Vardars 120mm (don`t remember model, they produce ~2100RPM ), installed on my morpheus ii cooler and was also very "surprised" that I could not hear them before 800RPM, but I could very clearly hear their motor on any speed...

So, now my favorites - Noiseblocker NB-eLoop for case and Phobya eLoop for morpheus ii cooler, I have tried to install Noiseblocker NB-eLoop on Phanteks PH-TC14PE, but I don`t know why - it was very load, because of NB has high static pressure, I suppose.


----------



## ciarlatano

D13mass said:


> Honestly, I don`t remember good idiom in English, but I had 9 these fans ( I had 3 - 420mm radiators) and when they were working in 535RPM I was happy, but when I decided to switch to air I left only 4 these 'perfect' fans in my current case and I was surprised by how they make noise, even not air noise - motor noise on 650+ RPM I could hear them.
> Also, everybody praises EK Vardar, so I bought 2 Vardars 120mm (don`t remember model, they produce ~2100RPM ), installed on my morpheus ii cooler and was also very "surprised" that I could not hear them before 800RPM, but I could very clearly hear their motor on any speed...
> 
> So, now my favorites - Noiseblocker NB-eLoop for case and Phobya eLoop for morpheus ii cooler, I have tried to install Noiseblocker NB-eLoop on Phanteks PH-TC14PE, but I don`t know why - it was very load, because of NB has high static pressure, I suppose.


Very odd. The F140MP is one of the nicest sounding fans I have tested.

The eLoops run into an issue if they are restricted on the intake side. It makes them very noisy. It was the middle fan on the 14PE that was making all the noise, most likely.


----------



## D13mass

ciarlatano said:


> It was the middle fan on the 14PE that was making all the noise, most likely.


Exactly! I put only one inside cooler and it was awful.
So, maybe I have to try again these fans which you guys recommended, they are good as case fans?
I do not know why every time when I replyed from phone letter 'S' will be encoded to 's'
Exactly! I put only one inside cooler and it was awful.
So, maybe I have to try again these fans which you guys recommended, they are good as case fans?


----------



## doyll

I really like Thermalright TY-147, TY147A TY-147B, TY-149 or if you want extreme airflow for maximum cooler TY-143 cooler fans, but if using TY-143 which flows almost twice as much air at full speed case airflow needs to be increased too.


----------



## D13mass

doyll said:


> I really like Thermalright TY-147, TY147A TY-147B, TY-149 or if you want extreme airflow for maximum cooler TY-143 cooler fans, but if using TY-143 which flows almost twice as much air at full speed case airflow needs to be increased too.


Oh my gosh, Thermalright TY-143 has 130.0 CFM and 45dba ... Is it very loud?


----------



## doyll

D13mass said:


> Oh my gosh, Thermalright TY-143 has 130.0 CFM and 45dba ... Is it very loud?


Guess it depends on what your definition of loud is. To me TY-140/TY-147 is just about to get loud at full speed of 1300rpm. So to me running them above that is definitely loud. But I want my systems to run so quitely I never hear them .. unless it's extremely hot and I'm runing 100% load on CPU.


----------



## ciarlatano

D13mass said:


> Oh my gosh, Thermalright TY-143 has 130.0 CFM and 45dba ... Is it very loud?


Of course it's loud. Any fan moving 130 cfm is going to be loud. But, it is quieter than almost any other fan with that capability.


----------



## D13mass

doyll said:


> D13mass said:
> 
> 
> 
> Oh my gosh, Thermalright TY-143 has 130.0 CFM and 45dba ... Is it very loud?
> 
> 
> 
> Guess it depends on what your definition of loud is. To me TY-140/TY-147 is just about to get loud at full speed of 1300rpm. So to me running them above that is definitely loud. But I want my systems to run so quitely I never hear them .. unless it's extremely hot and I'm runing 100% load on CPU.
Click to expand...

And which one would be better for our cooler? I need only one. I have read specification from their site, something with bigger CFM, something with pressure... Need performance and quiet)


----------



## Owterspace

To me at 1800rpm its a little more noticeable. At 2000rpm you know its there, at 2500rpm its about as loud as my 110cfm 120x38s at 12v. Pretty loud.

1300rpm to my ears is near silent 

But right now in my rig its sitting at 690rpm, its as quiet as the TY-147A behind it.


----------



## doyll

D13mass said:


> And which one would be better for our cooler? I need only one. I have read specification from their site, something with bigger CFM, something with pressure... Need performance and quiet)


I used TY143 on my red PH-TC14PE for for years, but they rarely ran above 1100rpm. Cooler was on a seriously overclock 920 CPU. To show people how well PH-TC14PE cooled I would turn off cooler fans and run a stress test. It would take about 5 minutes to get to 75c at which time I would turn TY-143s back on reaching full speed for about 15 seconds, then slowly drop to about 1200rpm in about 90 seconds. 1100-1200rpm was normal heavy load speed. 

Basically I used TY-143 for color and ran them at same speeds as stock cooler fans, the same as TY-147. 

Keep in mind I had case airflow setup so it was never more than a couple degrees above room ambient.

Below is link to my old R3 with 4x TY-140 intakes, 2x front & 1x bottom intakes, open center caster base for better airflow to bottom vents, rear and bottom vent grills cut to to improve airflow and lower noise, back cut out and PCIe slot overs removed for better exhaust airflow,


----------



## Owterspace

When I pull the glass off of the side, the mobo temp drops by 1c. I took the foam out of the front mesh, so she really flows a lot more.

https://www.overclock.net/forum/161...actal-design-case-club-1703.html#post27973470


----------



## 8051

I tried Doyll's idea w/the Ty-143 w/my ph-tc14pe -- unfortunately, because the fan isn't square it would either stick up above the towers or be touching the back of my video card which occupies the 1st PCIe slot. I ended up using a noctua NF-A14 IPPC-3000, which has slightly better specs on paper than the Ty-143. Doyll's not kidding about requiring more case airflow either; increasing the cooling of my video card and CPU has only resulted in my case temps getting hotter and realizing I need a better case w/more airflow.


----------



## D13mass

So, bought 3 PH-F140MP (2 on front and one on top for blowing out air), but it will arrive in July I suppose (from USA to Ukraine)
And I have tried a few different fans on my cooler (you can see in attachment):

1. EK-Vardar F4-120ER Type P030 BULK 
2. Phobya NB-eLoop
3. Noiseblocker NB-eLoop Fan B14-PS (my final choice)


----------



## ierd300we

Hello. I need help. I was going to order this cooler, but I know that it is better to replace the fans. If you choose between these - https://www.computeruniverse.net/en/corsair-air-series-af140-led-weiss-quiet-edition-single-pack
and these https://www.computeruniverse.net/ru...-korpus-ohne-led-pwm-37-db-400-2000-rpm-97cfm
If there are counterparts on the same site for the same price, but better (silence is primarily of interest, performance is also important, but not in price), suggest.
I plan to buy Ryzen 7 3700X or 9 3900X.


----------



## Gripen90

ierd300we said:


> Hello. I need help. I was going to order this cooler, but I know that it is better to replace the fans. If you choose between these - https://www.computeruniverse.net/en/corsair-air-series-af140-led-weiss-quiet-edition-single-pack
> and these https://www.computeruniverse.net/ru...-korpus-ohne-led-pwm-37-db-400-2000-rpm-97cfm
> If there are counterparts on the same site for the same price, but better (silence is primarily of interest, performance is also important, but not in price), suggest.
> I plan to buy Ryzen 7 3700X or 9 3900X.


The included fans are much better and they are very silent. I am using the cooler on a much hotter Intel core i7 [email protected] and it cools it admirably and very silent even under blender workloads.


----------



## ierd300we

From this articles it is clear that changing fans improves cooling and reduces noise.
https://fcenter.ru/online/hardarticles/cooling/32355-Smena_lidera_superkuler_Phanteks_PH_TC14PE#07
https://3dnews.ru/914677/page-2.html
https://3dnews.ru/929834/page-2.html


----------



## Gripen90

ierd300we said:


> From this articles it is clear that changing fans improves cooling and reduces noise.
> https://fcenter.ru/online/hardarticles/cooling/32355-Smena_lidera_superkuler_Phanteks_PH_TC14PE#07
> https://3dnews.ru/914677/page-2.html
> https://3dnews.ru/929834/page-2.html


That article is also very old and since then the phanteks ph-tc14pe is coming with whole new set of fans for the cooler, and not the ones they use in the review. The newer ones are with larger blade design and better static pressure.
http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F140HP2.html


----------



## ierd300we

Thanks you very much! But have one question. Cooler on this links - https://www.computeruniverse.net/ru/phanteks-ph-tc14pe-silber
https://www.computeruniverse.net/ru/phanteks-ph-tc14pe-pwm-schwarz
Do they have updated fans or can I be sure only about the black version?
P.S. Sorry for my english, is very very bad.


----------



## Gripen90

ierd300we said:


> Thanks you very much! But have one question. Cooler on this links - https://www.computeruniverse.net/ru/phanteks-ph-tc14pe-silber
> https://www.computeruniverse.net/ru/phanteks-ph-tc14pe-pwm-schwarz
> Do they have updated fans or can I be sure only about the black version?
> P.S. Sorry for my english, is very very bad.


Unless it is very old stock inventory, they should have the new revision with the new fans.


----------



## ierd300we

But on the official website in the specifications are old fans. Forgot to fix, just a mistake?
http://www.phanteks.com/PH-TC14PE.html


----------



## Gripen90

ierd300we said:


> But on the official website in the specifications are old fans. Forgot to fix, just a mistake?
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-TC14PE.html


Yea they forgot to write PH-F140HP II because they are those the picture also shows.


----------



## ierd300we

Thanks you very much. I hope that in the new shipment product they will have updated fans and I will not have to order the fans separately.


----------



## doyll

ierd300we said:


> Thanks you very much! But have one question. Cooler on this links - https://www.computeruniverse.net/ru/phanteks-ph-tc14pe-silber
> https://www.computeruniverse.net/ru/phanteks-ph-tc14pe-pwm-schwarz
> Do they have updated fans or can I be sure only about the black version?
> P.S. Sorry for my english, is very very bad.


Those are very old coolers. They have old fans, no AM4 mount, etc. 



Gripen90 said:


> Unless it is very old stock inventory, they should have the new revision with the new fans.


As I said above, very old stock and specs in advertising link. 



ierd300we said:


> But on the official website in the specifications are old fans. Forgot to fix, just a mistake?
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-TC14PE.html


I don't trust an image that specifications do not match. 

Best way to find out what actual specifications are is contact seller for specifications of what they are selling.


----------



## ciarlatano

ierd300we said:


> Hello. I need help. I was going to order this cooler, but I know that it is better to replace the fans. If you choose between these - https://www.computeruniverse.net/en/corsair-air-series-af140-led-weiss-quiet-edition-single-pack
> and these https://www.computeruniverse.net/ru...-korpus-ohne-led-pwm-37-db-400-2000-rpm-97cfm
> If there are counterparts on the same site for the same price, but better (silence is primarily of interest, performance is also important, but not in price), suggest.
> I plan to buy Ryzen 7 3700X or 9 3900X.


"Different" does not equal "better". Whoever told you it is "better to replace the fans" has no idea what they are talking about. The included fans are significantly better than the Corsair AF series you listed, and as good as the ML in this (and almost every other) application. Unless your goal is absolute performance with absolutely no regard to how loud it is (in which case you would want TY-143 Thermalright or the like), changing the fans on this cooler is pointless.


----------



## eeroo94

Are the newer PH-F140HP II fans noticeable better than the old models?


----------



## doyll

eeroo94 said:


> Are the newer PH-F140HP II fans noticeable better than the old models?


Yes, but how much better depends on which fans you now have. The original PH-TC14PE came with variable voltage fans, which were changed to PWM in about a year. Many years later they were change to PH-F140HP_II. A bit of FYI; a year or so ago PH-TC14PE cooler fins were changed from 2-piece fins soldered to heatpipes to single piece fins.


----------



## eeroo94

I have the newer fans after all, bought this cooler for 35€ second handed. Using 120mm Arctic fan on the front due ram clerance.


----------



## doyll

Cap on top is 1 piece, but if you look at sides of cooler you can see if it is older 2-piece fins or 1-piece fins. 

I would be surprised if 120mm an is improving cooling much if any. Easy to test by taking front fan off. Same is true of exhaust fan in back of cooler. Probably little if any difference in temps but usually quieter without them both and just use 2x stock fans in pull / pull as they are mounted.


----------



## D13mass

eeroo94 said:


> I have the newer fans after all, bought this cooler for 35€ second handed. Using 120mm Arctic fan on the front due ram clerance.


After all, my final choice NB Eloop B14-PS + Phobya Eloop 120mm (could not install second 140mm fan), extremely quiet (Eloops are quieter than stock PH-F140HP II) and temps are the same.


----------



## IANVS

I have the older TC14PE with no AM4 mount in my current Haswell i5 rig. Can existing AM3 mount be adapted for AM4?


I lost my purchase invoice years ago (been moving) so I don't know if the support would approve sending the AM4 mount to me without it...if it can be adapted easily, I might consider trying it.


----------



## doyll

IANVS said:


> I have the older TC14PE with no AM4 mount in my current Haswell i5 rig. Can existing AM3 mount be adapted for AM4?
> 
> 
> I lost my purchase invoice years ago (been moving) so I don't know if the support would approve sending the AM4 mount to me without it...if it can be adapted easily, I might consider trying it.


Where on Earth are you? Phanteks customer support is good, especially in USA. You might be able to mod your existing mount or make new strip adapters if you have the skills, but much easier to just by AM4 mount if you can find one. Problem is AM4 has been out long enough now that accessory mount is not readily available any more.

Below is dimensional drawings of AM3 & AM4 mounting plate and older AM3 plate. Black dots & measurements are AM3 while red dots & measurements areAM4. I don't know if your AM3 strip adapters are big enough to drill the AM4 spaced holes.

Another possible solution is do a 3D printed AM4 mount for PH-TC14PE. Below link has more info:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2576449


----------



## Ashura

IANVS said:


> I have the older TC14PE with no AM4 mount in my current Haswell i5 rig. Can existing AM3 mount be adapted for AM4?
> 
> 
> I lost my purchase invoice years ago (been moving) so I don't know if the support would approve sending the AM4 mount to me without it...if it can be adapted easily, I might consider trying it.


Phanteks support is great. Try sending them an email along with a couple of pictures of your rig & cooler. They might send an AM4 kit.


----------



## IANVS

I asked them, they said they'll send it if I provide the proof of purchase of an AM4 mobo or CPU. The thing is, I'm not sure when will I get one, I just wanted to have the AM4 mount or possibility of it ahead of time, in case I decide to sell the cooler (I'll be switching to SFF) and to eliminate the wait in case I do go to AM4 (I'm not in the US...or civilized world, heh).


Anyway, I don't think stock AM3 mounts can be repurposed, the gap between AM3 and Am4 holes is too large for them. Maaaybe, but I don't have a mobo to try, so...
I did find the blueprint for a 3D printed bracket, so I may try that option, should the need arise. I love this cooler, I'd like to keep it if I can.



Thank you for the feedback, guys!


----------



## Himo5

Here's a shot of the old AM3 bracket against a new AM4. When you put them back to back you can see there's just room on the AM3 bracket to drill holes for AM4, even if it takes you near to the edge of the old, smaller brackets. So when you get an AM4 motherboard use the backing plate as a drilling guide.


----------



## doyll

IANVS said:


> I asked them, they said they'll send it if I provide the proof of purchase of an AM4 mobo or CPU. The thing is, I'm not sure when will I get one, I just wanted to have the AM4 mount or possibility of it ahead of time, in case I decide to sell the cooler (I'll be switching to SFF) and to eliminate the wait in case I do go to AM4 (I'm not in the US...or civilized world, heh).
> 
> 
> Anyway, I don't think stock AM3 mounts can be repurposed, the gap between AM3 and Am4 holes is too large for them. Maaaybe, but I don't have a mobo to try, so...
> I did find the blueprint for a 3D printed bracket, so I may try that option, should the need arise. I love this cooler, I'd like to keep it if I can.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for the feedback, guys!


 I assume you are buying AM4 motherboard and CPU so you should have some sort of receipt.
Indeed, PH-TC14PE is very good. I have original that came with 3-pin variable voltage fans (replaced with new PWM fans) as well as newest version. New PH-TC14PE have 1-piece fins while old ones have 2-piece fins soldered to heatpipes. Newer ones have better PH-F140HP_II fans, but with same fans both cool the same.


----------



## IANVS

Himo5 said:


> Here's a shot of the old AM3 bracket against a new AM4. When you put them back to back you can see there's just room on the AM3 bracket to drill holes for AM4, even if it takes you near to the edge of the old, smaller brackets. So when you get an AM4 motherboard use the backing plate as a drilling guide.



That's actually what I was hoping for to find out. I wasn't sure if new holes would end up outside of AM3 brackets...


Great news and possibly a very useful info for some people, thank you very much!


----------



## 8051

doyll said:


> Yes, but how much better depends on which fans you now have. The original PH-TC14PE came with variable voltage fans, which were changed to PWM in about a year. Many years later they were change to PH-F140HP_II. A bit of FYI; a year or so ago PH-TC14PE cooler fins were changed from 2-piece fins soldered to heatpipes to single piece fins.


The fins aren't soldered they're press fit -- at least on my PH-TC14PE, because mine have popped off and there is no evidence of solder.

I finally found a use for my TY-150 and TY-143 -- on my DH15s.


----------



## doyll

8051 said:


> The fins aren't soldered they're press fit -- at least on my PH-TC14PE, because mine have popped off and there is no evidence of solder.
> 
> I finally found a use for my TY-150 and TY-143 -- on my DH15s.


 Then I'm assuming your PH-TC14PE is not too old. :thumb: For several years PH-TC14PE had 2-piece fins each fitting onto 1/2 of pipe and soldered,, than a few years back they changes to ones with center hole slipped onto heatpipes and no solder. You can see the middle seam where fin halves meet in pics below.

Image below shows original 2-piece finned PH-TC14PE and newer 1-piece finned PH-TC14PE

Below link is to how I mounted TY-140, Ty-147, TY-143 fans on my PH-TC14PE coolers.
https://www.overclock.net/forum/23389821-post37.html


----------



## 8051

doyll said:


> Then I'm assuming your PH-TC14PE is not too old. :thumb: For several years PH-TC14PE had 2-piece fins each fitting onto 1/2 of pipe and soldered,, than a few years back they changes to ones with center hole slipped onto heatpipes and no solder. You can see the middle seam where fin halves meet in pics below.
> 
> Image below shows original 2-piece finned PH-TC14PE and newer 1-piece finned PH-TC14PE


Doyll I have the old 2-piece fins PH-TC14PE. The bottom pair popped off on one side and the pair above that are coming loose. There is no evidence of any solder.


----------



## doyll

8051 said:


> Doyll I have the old 2-piece fins PH-TC14PE. The bottom pair popped off on one side and the pair above that are coming loose. There is no evidence of any solder.


Sorry, I misunderstood. They didn't use much solder, and if fins are coming off it's likey they were not properly soldered on. I had similar problem with PH-TC14PE I received to test and review when they first came out. I suggest you email Phanteks support with photos of problem. They might give you a new cooler .. and fans on new cooler are much better than originals. Worst case is they don't, but an email doesn't cost anything but few minutes to compose.


----------



## 8051

doyll said:


> Sorry, I misunderstood. They didn't use much solder, and if fins are coming off it's likey they were not properly soldered on. I had similar problem with PH-TC14PE I received to test and review when they first came out. I suggest you email Phanteks support with photos of problem. They might give you a new cooler .. and fans on new cooler are much better than originals. Worst case is they don't, but an email doesn't cost anything but few minutes to compose.


Doyll is Thermalright the only heatsink manufacturer that dips their heatsinks in solder (that's what my old Archon-SBE looks like). My Noctua DH15s looks like the fins are press-fit.


----------



## XtrathiccFan

8051 said:


> Doyll is Thermalright the only heatsink manufacturer that dips their heatsinks in solder (that's what my old Archon-SBE looks like). My Noctua DH15s looks like the fins are press-fit.


Only old Thermalright heatsinks are reflow soldered, newer heatsinks are all press-fit except HR-22 plus and Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme Rev. B.
As for D15S, I'm pretty sure it is also reflow soldered.


----------



## 8051

XtrathiccFan said:


> Only old Thermalright heatsinks are reflow soldered, newer heatsinks are all press-fit except HR-22 plus and Silver Arrow IB-E Extreme Rev. B.
> As for D15S, I'm pretty sure it is also reflow soldered.


I'd figure over time press-fit fins would be a bad idea because of the cycle of expansion/contraction they would eventually come loose from the heatpipes.


----------



## meddio

doyll said:


> You have the original fans. Upgrading will definitely not hurt and probably give a little better performance .. more likely lower noise level than lower temps. T-14x series have became rather popular now so price is now back up to MSRP. When I was getting them at such low prices they were not well known or popular .. which is why I referred to them in past tense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new PH-F140HP II now being supplied on PH-TC14PE are quite good .. better then TY-147A or NF-A15 PWM 1500
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've compared them to TY-14x and find them about the same. PH-F140HP II and PH-F140MP are same fan in different frames .. HP II is round, MP is square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Source: Thermalbench - Thermalright TY-147A 140mm fan
> 
> 
> CoolingTechnique - TY147A and NF-A14 comparing to PH-F140MP and PH-F140HP II:
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> Here is CoolingTechnique data comparing TY147A & PH-F140MP / PH-F140HP II
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is CoolingTechnique NF-A14 & PH-F140MP / PH-F140HP II
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.coolingtechnique.com/rec...ermalright-true-spirit-140-power.html?start=4
> 
> All have very similar test data.



Hello. I have recently bought some old revision of Phanteks PH-TC14PE. The radiator is in very good condition (almost new).
But one of the fans was missing. And the present fan is an old version of PH-F140HP (3 pins, 9 blades, DC-controlled, comes with questionable PWM-DC converter and PWM-splitter).
I cannot find an extra matching fan on sale. And there is no point (according to most reviews and forums).

*So I am looking for some good replacement fans for Phanteks PH-TC14PE.*


So far these are the models occasionally available (where I live):


*Phanteks PH-F140HP II* ($25 new) - the quoted post says they are really good. How good?!
*Noctua A15* ($30 for 1200rpm retail or 1500rpm HS cromax) - decent fan, overpriced, granny-design
*Thermalright *fans (same price for all models: $15 new, $10 used):
*TY-147A* - lower PWM curve, nice colors
*TY-147B
*
*TY-140
*
*TY-143* - on steroids 
TY-141
TY-141SV - I have no idea if this "side vent" feature is good or bad when used with tower coolers
 
maybe some other round 140-mm fans with 120mm mount holes
or maybe some square 140-mm fans (if there is a way to mount them on TC14PE)

*Basically my questions are:*
1) cheaper option: Which of the regular *14x Thermalright* fans are the most suitable for TC14PE (143 aside)?
2) no price-limit: Are *Phanteks PH-F140HP II* worth paying extra (in comparison to Thermalright)?

There's some problem with availability this month. It seems the stocks of "round" Thermalright fans are exhausted in local online shops.
Even the popular TY-147A disappeared from the online shops lately. But there is no shortage of square Thermalright fans - you can easily find any model. :doh:.
Unfortunately I missed the opportunity to buy a pair of new *TY-143* on sale ($10 each, with warranty) a week ago. Silly me. But I can wait.



On a side note. *Is there a good way to mount a regular 140mm fan on this cooler?* (without damaging the radiator and the fans)

I have a couple of Noctua A14 PWM fans lying around (intended for the other build).
They even have the corresponding holes (silicon corners attachment) matching the width of Phanteks wire clips.
But the Phanteks wire hooks are too long. I'll probably try to mount them later. Photos:



Spoiler


----------



## Melcar

meddio said:


> Hello. I have recently bought some old revision of Phanteks PH-TC14PE. The radiator is in very good condition (almost new).
> But one of the fans was missing. And the present fan is an old version of PH-F140HP (3 pins, 9 blades, DC-controlled, comes with questionable PWM-DC converter and PWM-splitter).
> I cannot find an extra matching fan on sale. And there is no point (according to most reviews and forums).
> 
> *So I am looking for some good replacement fans for Phanteks PH-TC14PE.*
> 
> 
> So far these are the models occasionally available (where I live):
> 
> 
> *Phanteks PH-F140HP II* ($25 new) - the quoted post says they are really good. How good?!
> *Noctua A15* ($30 for 1200rpm retail or 1500rpm HS cromax) - decent fan, overpriced, granny-design
> *Thermalright *fans (same price for all models: $15 new, $10 used):
> *TY-147A* - lower PWM curve, nice colors
> *TY-147B
> *
> *TY-140
> *
> *TY-143* - on steroids
> TY-141
> TY-141SV - I have no idea if this "side vent" feature is good or bad when used with tower coolers
> 
> maybe some other round 140-mm fans with 120mm mount holes
> or maybe some square 140-mm fans (if there is a way to mount them on TC14PE)
> 
> *Basically my questions are:*
> 1) cheaper option: Which of the regular *14x Thermalright* fans are the most suitable for TC14PE (143 aside)?
> 2) no price-limit: Are *Phanteks PH-F140HP II* worth paying extra (in comparison to Thermalright)?
> 
> There's some problem with availability this month. It seems the stocks of "round" Thermalright fans are exhausted in local online shops.
> Even the popular TY-147A disappeared from the online shops lately. But there is no shortage of square Thermalright fans - you can easily find any model. :doh:.
> Unfortunately I missed the opportunity to buy a pair of new *TY-143* on sale ($10 each, with warranty) a week ago. Silly me. But I can wait.
> 
> 
> 
> On a side note. *Is there a good way to mount a regular 140mm fan on this cooler?* (without damaging the radiator and the fans)
> 
> I have a couple of Noctua A14 PWM fans lying around (intended for the other build).
> They even have the corresponding holes (silicon corners attachment) matching the width of Phanteks wire clips.
> But the Phanteks wire hooks are too long. I'll probably try to mount them later. Photos:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler





If you can figure out how to mount the A14s go for that. You already have them, so free.

The PH-F140 II is a good fan, but for $25, eww no. I mean I love Phanteks fans but I have stopped paying for more than $20 per fan a while ago because it was simply not worth it. Having said that, I wouldn't even look at the A15. Performance wise it's similar to the Phanteks.
TY fans are fantastic fans really, and if you are lucky enough to score some I would go with those, especially at the prices you quoted. Any of those models will perform pretty much the same at the same rpms. They also perform similar to the Noctua and Phanteks fans. I would go for the TY-147s for the color alone, or the TY-143s if you want the extra power.


----------



## doyll

meddio said:


> Hello. I have recently bought some old revision of Phanteks PH-TC14PE. The radiator is in very good condition (almost new).
> But one of the fans was missing. And the present fan is an old version of PH-F140HP (3 pins, 9 blades, DC-controlled, comes with questionable PWM-DC converter and PWM-splitter).
> I cannot find an extra matching fan on sale. And there is no point (according to most reviews and forums).
> 
> *So I am looking for some good replacement fans for Phanteks PH-TC14PE.*
> 
> 
> So far these are the models occasionally available (where I live):
> 
> 
> *Phanteks PH-F140HP II* ($25 new) - the quoted post says they are really good. How good?!
> *Noctua A15* ($30 for 1200rpm retail or 1500rpm HS cromax) - decent fan, overpriced, granny-design
> *Thermalright *fans (same price for all models: $15 new, $10 used):
> *TY-147A* - lower PWM curve, nice colors
> *TY-147B
> *
> *TY-140
> *
> *TY-143* - on steroids
> TY-141
> TY-141SV - I have no idea if this "side vent" feature is good or bad when used with tower coolers
> 
> maybe some other round 140-mm fans with 120mm mount holes
> or maybe some square 140-mm fans (if there is a way to mount them on TC14PE)
> 
> *Basically my questions are:*
> 1) cheaper option: Which of the regular *14x Thermalright* fans are the most suitable for TC14PE (143 aside)?
> 2) no price-limit: Are *Phanteks PH-F140HP II* worth paying extra (in comparison to Thermalright)?
> 
> There's some problem with availability this month. It seems the stocks of "round" Thermalright fans are exhausted in local online shops.
> Even the popular TY-147A disappeared from the online shops lately. But there is no shortage of square Thermalright fans - you can easily find any model. :doh:.
> Unfortunately I missed the opportunity to buy a pair of new *TY-143* on sale ($10 each, with warranty) a week ago. Silly me. But I can wait.
> 
> 
> On a side note. *Is there a good way to mount a regular 140mm fan on this cooler?* (without damaging the radiator and the fans)
> 
> I have a couple of Noctua A14 PWM fans lying around (intended for the other build).
> They even have the corresponding holes (silicon corners attachment) matching the width of Phanteks wire clips.
> But the Phanteks wire hooks are too long. I'll probably try to mount them later. Photos:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


As Melcar said, adapt the fan clips to NF-A14 is cheapest way forward and will work just fine. While I haven't done this, 
I suspect the fan clips can be bent so ends are slightly wider. 
if you can't use the stock Phanteks pieces for mounting holes, make some with pull-ties as shown in below link:
https://www.overclock.net/forum/23389821-post37.html

If you want to buy fans, TY-143 will give the best cooling, but only if you upgrade case airflow with similar hi-performance fans. TY-147 & TY-147A are basically same fans in different colors (black/white vs green/tan) as TY-140 .. and TY-147A has differnt RPM curve so it Idles down to about 300rpm. Honestly idling below about 600rpm doesn't make any difference becuause they are so quiet you won't hear a difference, plus 600rpm is good speed to keep nice flow of air through everything (300rpm often does not).

TY-141 are good but I don't like them was well as Ty-140/147/143 impeller shape. The vented sides make so little difference it doesn't matter. In seriously expensive lab testing we were able to record a slight difference in readings, but not enough to effect performance. 

If you have any other questions feel free to post them.


----------



## meddio

Melcar said:


> If you can figure out how to mount the A14s go for that. You already have them, so free.
> 
> The PH-F140 II is a good fan, but for $25, eww no. I mean I love Phanteks fans but I have stopped paying for more than $20 per fan a while ago because it was simply not worth it.
> TY fans are fantastic fans really, and if you are lucky enough to score some I would go with those, especially at the prices you quoted. Any of those models will perform pretty much the same at the same rpms. They also perform similar to the Noctua and Phanteks fans. I would go for the TY-147s for the color alone, or the TY-143s if you want the extra power.


*Melcar, doyll*, thank you very much for very detailed answers. And for the smile seeing "Noctua" mentioned as "the cheapest way forward".
Though I got them new for $16 each ($23 being usual lowest price).

Nah, I will use Noctuas as case fans, my Fractal Design stock fans are slowly dying in my cases.
And they are not powerful enough to pull any air through the front mesh + the dust filter + the HDD-cage.


I totally agree that *TY-147A* low 300 RPM curve isn't really needed with tower cooler.
And unfortunately I haven't found any other "round" *Thermalright TY-14x* fans on sale (there was plentiful supply in many local shops just some weeks ago).

So I've decided to go with *Phanteks PH-F140HP II - *NewEgg's first-time buyer's coupon will compensate international parcel-forwarding
and the resulting price will stay $15 per fan (not $25). I will try to compare them to Noctua NF-14 PWM when they arrive.

I hope I haven't made a mistake of not waiting for the new supply of Thermalright (probably TY-147/143).


Thank you for your thoughts and detailed information on TY fans. I will sure use them in some future builds.

BTW what a nice idea was to make the mounting holes for 120mm and 140mm fans in Thermalright SQ line.
Come here, Noctua, let me get my drill


----------



## Melcar

meddio said:


> *Melcar, doyll*, thank you very much for very detailed answers. And for the smile seeing "Noctua" mentioned as "the cheapest way forward".
> Though I got them new for $16 each ($23 being usual lowest price).
> 
> Nah, I will use Noctuas as case fans, my Fractal Design stock fans are slowly dying in my cases.
> And they are not powerful enough to pull any air through the front mesh + the dust filter + the HDD-cage.
> 
> 
> I totally agree that *TY-147A* low 300 RPM curve isn't really needed with tower cooler.
> And unfortunately I haven't found any other "round" *Thermalright TY-14x* fans on sale (there was plentiful supply in many local shops just some weeks ago).
> 
> So I've decided to go with *Phanteks PH-F140HP II - *NewEgg's first-time buyer's coupon will compensate international parcel-forwarding
> and the resulting price will stay $15 per fan (not $25). I will try to compare them to Noctua NF-14 PWM when they arrive.
> 
> I hope I haven't made a mistake of not waiting for the new supply of Thermalright (probably TY-147/143).
> 
> 
> Thank you for your thoughts and detailed information on TY fans. I will sure use them in some future builds.
> 
> BTW what a nice idea was to make the mounting holes for 120mm and 140mm fans in Thermalright SQ line.
> Come here, Noctua, let me get my drill





For $15 you got some good fans. They are comparable to the A14/15s, moving just a tad less air, just a bit quieter (some say a much better sound profile than Noctua fans) and slightly better static pressure rating. I have a few PH-F140MPs (same fan in square housing) as case fans. They go as low as 530ish rpm and don't get audible till around 1100 rpm for me.


----------



## doyll

meddio said:


> *Melcar, doyll*, thank you very much for very detailed answers. And for the smile seeing "Noctua" mentioned as "the cheapest way forward".
> Though I got them new for $16 each ($23 being usual lowest price).
> 
> Nah, I will use Noctuas as case fans, my Fractal Design stock fans are slowly dying in my cases.
> And they are not powerful enough to pull any air through the front mesh + the dust filter + the HDD-cage.
> 
> 
> I totally agree that *TY-147A* low 300 RPM curve isn't really needed with tower cooler.
> And unfortunately I haven't found any other "round" *Thermalright TY-14x* fans on sale (there was plentiful supply in many local shops just some weeks ago).
> 
> So I've decided to go with *Phanteks PH-F140HP II - *NewEgg's first-time buyer's coupon will compensate international parcel-forwarding
> and the resulting price will stay $15 per fan (not $25). I will try to compare them to Noctua NF-14 PWM when they arrive.
> 
> I hope I haven't made a mistake of not waiting for the new supply of Thermalright (probably TY-147/143).
> 
> 
> Thank you for your thoughts and detailed information on TY fans. I will sure use them in some future builds.
> 
> BTW what a nice idea was to make the mounting holes for 120mm and 140mm fans in Thermalright SQ line.
> Come here, Noctua, let me get my drill


2x PH-F140HPII at $15 each instead of $25 is way I would go too. You will need 4 more corner pins for clips like on 1 original fan you have. You might be able to get them from Phanteks support, but 4 small zip-ties made up like in link I gave you in previous post work fine too. Might be worthwhile to get AM4 mount from Phanteks if they still have them as upgrade for older coolers.


----------



## ciarlatano

doyll said:


> 2x PH-F140HPII at $15 each instead of $25 is way I would go too. You will need 4 more corner pins for clips like on 1 original fan you have. You might be able to get them from Phanteks support, but 4 small zip-ties made up like in link I gave you in previous post work fine too. Might be worthwhile to get AM4 mount from Phanteks if they still have them as upgrade for older coolers.


A little bend to the clips works, also.


----------



## doyll

ciarlatano said:


> A little bend to the clips works, also.


You mean bend ends of clips to fit into fan mounting holes instead of into mounting hole pins as supplied by Phanteks? With no extra fan clips I would not want to be re-bending them much. If meddio broke end off one of his 4 clips he'd be up the proverbial creek. 

Or are you doing something different than I'm thinking?


----------



## ciarlatano

doyll said:


> You mean bend ends of clips to fit into fan mounting holes instead of into mounting hole pins as supplied by Phanteks? With no extra fan clips I would not want to be re-bending them much. If meddio broke end off one of his 4 clips he'd be up the proverbial creek.
> 
> Or are you doing something different than I'm thinking?


No, that's exactly what I was referring to. Those little inserts are a PITA.


----------



## doyll

ciarlatano said:


> No, that's exactly what I was referring to. Those little inserts are a PITA.


Interestingly, I never had a problem with them. Maybe I was just lucky.


----------



## meddio

Well, buying an old Phanteks cooler turns to be some sort of adventure 



doyll said:


> 2x PH-F140HPII at $15 each instead of $25 is way I would go too.


 My newegg's order is already processing. But I have noticed that their PH-F140HP II page has the title, specs, and photos of PH-F140HP II, but the description of PH-F140HP (gen 1).
Chat support tried to help identifying the real product, but had to issue a ticket for their team to find out, whether they are selling the PH-F140HP or PH-F140HP II.


> You will need 4 more corner pins for clips like on 1 original fan you have.


Thanks. Fortunately, I have the full set of corner pins and wire brackets for mounting not 2 but 3 fans 


doyll said:


> Might be worthwhile to get AM4 mount from Phanteks if they still have them as upgrade for older coolers.


 That is another issue. I've sent an email request to Phanteks two weeks ago. Still no answer.

But not a problem. I'll probably need to find it on ebay, or make myself (metal or 3d-printed).

Or maybe Noctua AM4 kit turns to be compatible. They are widely available.
I've got one for the other PC and forgot to align it with Phanteks before installing.
And now I'm too lazy to unmount TC14PE to check.

Here's Phanteks AM4 mount photos (from Google) vs my Noctua AM4 kit:



Spoiler



Phanteks kits:













Noctua kit + my AM4 backplate:










Phanteks (universal mount holes for AM3+AM4):













Noctua (AM4 only):












The offset of the center screw pin may be a little different. The thread seems to be wider. Needs checking.


----------



## D13mass

Found best fans for radiator - Scythe Kaze Flex 140mm PWM Fan 1800rpm, they work in range 300-1800RPM, so they are quiet when you don`t have any stress loads and they are very performance when you need this.
Bought on performance-pc 17$ or something like that.
Also, I have tried thermalright TY-143 - they are awful, very loud even on minimal RPM, but very cheap, maybe for someone it will be reason to buy them, but in my opinion it`s strange to have a vacuum+hairdryer in your PC.


----------



## IANVS

Few questions:

I have the TC14PE, older version (2 part fins, F140HP fans). How does it fare against Fuma 2? I'm pondering if I should get the Fuma 2 because it would most likely cool my 4.3GHz @1.275V Ryzen 3600 just as well, with similar noise but much smaller size and better compatibility. Am I right about this?

I have a Raijintek Thetis case and Patriot Viper Blacksteel RAM which is 42mm tall and if I were to mount the TC14PE I would have to raise the front fan too high and it wouldn't fit (that's why I'm currently using a Thermalright Macho rev.C a temporary one). The alternative is to screw off the top fins on the Viper's heatsinks and Phanteks would then fit (I think). No such issues with Fuma 2 and I'd be able to install it in some SFF case too some day, which is why I'm thinking of getting it. Although, TC14PE can actually fit inside of Metis Plus if I use 120mm fans...

What turns me off is that it would otherwise be unneccessary cost and Fuma 2 would most likely be inferior with high heat CPUs, if I was to some day get one.
What's your opinion on this? Should I just take the fins off of RAM and use Phanteks, sell the Macho C and if I ever switch to SSF just get the Fuma then? That seems like the most sensible course of action, provided I can actually strip the RAM fins.

One more thing: I also have a pair of Noctua P14s Redux-1500 PWM fans. Would they be better than OG F140HP? Other alternatives that are available for me to buy are Phanteks' own F140MP at 17€, Arctic P14 PWM PST at 10€ a piece or 32€ for a 5-pack and Scythe Kaze Flex 140 PWM (round) at 16€ (which seems like a nice one but I found no reviews)...which of these would be best?


----------



## D-EJ915

I forget which cpu I tested them with whether it was a 9900x or 6950x and what speed/voltage but when I put my 1850rpm GT fans (2x) running full speed on fuma 2 and d15 the fuma 2 was 2 or 3 c worse temperatures. I can't remember exactly but could give at least some reference for d15 vs your tc14, unfortunately I gave my tc14 away to a friend as I didn't like the fan sound so I couldn't compare it at the same time. The fuma 2 also comes with much lower speed and airflow fans so keep that in mind.


----------



## IANVS

D-EJ915 said:


> The fuma 2 also comes with much lower speed and airflow fans so keep that in mind.


I do have that in mind, that's why I said it pretty much doesn't matter which one I use for Ryzen 3600, but if I ever get something more powerhungry and hotter, the Fuma 2 will be inferior to Phanteks...one of main reasons I'm thinking of keeping the Phanteks.


----------



## D-EJ915

IANVS said:


> I do have that in mind, that's why I said it pretty much doesn't matter which one I use for Ryzen 3600, but if I ever get something more powerhungry and hotter, the Fuma 2 will be inferior to Phanteks...one of main reasons I'm thinking of keeping the Phanteks.


It's a nice cooler so if you don't need the space I'd stick with it. The D15s also works well as well if you want more tc14 performance.


----------



## doyll

IANVS said:


> Few questions:
> 
> I have the TC14PE, older version (2 part fins, F140HP fans). How does it fare against Fuma 2? I'm pondering if I should get the Fuma 2 because it would most likely cool my 4.3GHz @1.275V Ryzen 3600 just as well, with similar noise but much smaller size and better compatibility. Am I right about this?
> 
> I have a Raijintek Thetis case and Patriot Viper Blacksteel RAM which is 42mm tall and if I were to mount the TC14PE I would have to raise the front fan too high and it wouldn't fit (that's why I'm currently using a Thermalright Macho rev.C a temporary one). The alternative is to screw off the top fins on the Viper's heatsinks and Phanteks would then fit (I think). No such issues with Fuma 2 and I'd be able to install it in some SFF case too some day, which is why I'm thinking of getting it. Although, TC14PE can actually fit inside of Metis Plus if I use 120mm fans...
> 
> What turns me off is that it would otherwise be unneccessary cost and Fuma 2 would most likely be inferior with high heat CPUs, if I was to some day get one.
> What's your opinion on this? Should I just take the fins off of RAM and use Phanteks, sell the Macho C and if I ever switch to SSF just get the Fuma then? That seems like the most sensible course of action, provided I can actually strip the RAM fins.
> 
> One more thing: I also have a pair of Noctua P14s Redux-1500 PWM fans. Would they be better than OG F140HP? Other alternatives that are available for me to buy are Phanteks' own F140MP at 17€, Arctic P14 PWM PST at 10€ a piece or 32€ for a 5-pack and Scythe Kaze Flex 140 PWM (round) at 16€ (which seems like a nice one but I found no reviews)...which of these would be best?


Original PH-TC14PE is very good cooler, even better with new fans. You could run it with single middle fan and only be a couple degrees warmer at full speed, but same temp as same noise level. Reason is 2x fans make 2-3dB more noise than 1 fan and 1 fan at same dB as 2 fans has about the same airflow, so same cooling at same noise level. 

I would remove top of your RAM. RAM heatspreaders don't lower RAM temp much if any at all. It's just looks and advertising hype.

To me your biggest problem is Thetis's 2x 120mm top, 1x 120m bottom and 1x 120mm back venting is horrible airflow design. 

If you decide to change case, look for one with 2x 140mm front vents and high pressure rated fans like Fractal Design Meshify and Focus (come with garbage fans). Or Phanteks Enthoo Pro M (comes with good fans) and Eclipse series with front venting (come with poor fans). All of them have good front to back airflow. 

Llink below to basic guide about airflow and optimizing case airflow might be helpful.








* * Ways to Better Cooling; Airflow, Cooler & Fan...


Got tired of posting instructions and guides over and over and over, so decided to start a thread for them. Please do not post unnecessarily as it will make it harder for others to find what they are looking for. This thread is not for opinions of the data or tutorials. If you have questions...




www.overclock.net


----------



## IANVS

I'll be stuck with Thetis for a while, heh. I initially wanted an SFF case, got a Metis Plus, but due to circumstances I bought a Strix 1080Ti which is a big card so I had to find a case that can fit all my stuff while still being compact. Thetis did it.

The temps are not bad by any means, mind you, both CPU and GPU hover around 65-72 degrees in games, even less when I play something older and nondemanding, as I often do. From a case with an airflow that wonky (I agree on that), it's much better than I anticipated. Thetis (and Metis too) rely on brute force with big coolers to cool the CPU and it works. A good 120mm AIO, such as Arctic LF II, is an option too and it would make things simpler but I don't think I need it with two decent air coolers I have. Also, I don't have a fan installed at the bottom right now. I might put one there on low RPM as intake once I switch my desk and raise the case more.

Anyway, for the time being, I decided to stick with Phanteks. I will unscrew the RAM heatsink fins, I know they serve no purpose at all, I'm just reluctant to mess with it because I'm lazy and those screws are tiny. I'll most likely sell the Macho C afterwards. Or keep it, dunno yet.

That leaves my with question of fans. I'm satisfied with how the F140HP worked so far, they did a good job in my previous case, Define R4. I also got 3 of the Noctua P14s-Redux 1500 PWM lying around, so I'm wondering if they would be a good replacement. I was able to attach them nicely, even though their screw holes are in different positions. I'd also prefer not to spend extra money for some other fans, I'm not sure it would make that much of a difference...

What's your opinion on F140HP vs. Noctua's Redux 1500?


----------



## pitchfork

Hi, new around these parts, hoping someone else has tried this...

I'm considering upgrading to an i5-12600K on a Z690 motherboard, 12th Gen Intel. I'd love to keep using my Phanteks PH-TC14PE which I really like (Phanteks Innovative Computer Hardware Design) but I can't find an adapter kit for it. 

I've contacted Phanteks, they replied saying there is no kit available and they don't intend to be releasing one, they'd rather focus on selling new coolers instead. I'm pretty disappointed by that given Noctua have released LGA1700 adapter kits for a lot of their old coolers already. 

Has anyone managed to get a PH-TC14PE fitted to a 12th Gen Intel CPU yet? I'm wondering if the Noctua kits (Intel LGA1700 – all you need to know) might work?

Thanks in advance for any feedback.


----------



## Dogzilla07

@pitchfork Understandable coming from Phanteks, they're probably gearing up for a new monster cooler later this year, early next. Noctua sustains 15 year old mounting support, Thermalright 13 year old. They're the top dogs in this. and Be Quiet! is a close 3rd spot. and then ID-cooling 4th.

That aside almost every more expensive Asus board has dual mounting holes, and you can mount your PH-TC14PE on them with the LGA 11** mounting for all the previous gens. There will be a performance hit due the the 1mm height difference, but it will work.


----------



## doyll

Phanteks hasn't released any new air coolers in long time, so probably not likely to be any new models. 

Keep in mind when using LGA11xx mounting holes LGA1700 IHS is closer to motherboard.
LGA1700 is 6.53-7.53 mm high .. that's 1.00mm tolerance.​LGA11xx is 7.31-8.25 mm high .. that's 0.94mm tolerance​That's about 0.72-0.78 mm lower.​Tallest LGA1700 spec is just 0.22mm tall than shortest LGA11xx, so sometimes there's enough mounting pressure, while other times it won't be enough. If mounting crossbar can be shimmed it's easy to put a spacer between crossbar and cooler base to push bottom of cooler closer / down harder on IHS.​It's the reason LGA1700 mounts use shorter spacers.


----------



## Dogzilla07

@pitchfork The shimming @doyll will work with your Phanteks, if u do end up having problems, but you can try it without as well.



doyll said:


> Phanteks hasn't released any new air coolers in long time, so probably not likely to be any new models.


Phanteks is like Noctua, gluttons for perfection, and they never really flooded the market. I'm fully expecting a new Air cooler to show up as soon as they finish developing the LCP (Liquid Crystal Polymer) 140mm fans, and the round-frame 140mm ones are ready.


----------



## doyll

Dogzilla07 said:


> @pitchfork The shimming @doyll will work with your Phanteks, if u do end up having problems, but you can try it without as well.
> 
> 
> Phanteks is like Noctua, gluttons for perfection, and they never really flooded the market. I'm fully expecting a new Air cooler to show up as soon as they finish developing the LCP (Liquid Crystal Polymer) 140mm fans, and the round-frame 140mm ones are ready.


Hope you are right. Like you said they do good stuff. Their coolers, fans, cases, etc. are all top tier in my book.


----------



## ciarlatano

pitchfork said:


> Hi, new around these parts, hoping someone else has tried this...
> 
> I'm considering upgrading to an i5-12600K on a Z690 motherboard, 12th Gen Intel. I'd love to keep using my Phanteks PH-TC14PE which I really like (Phanteks Innovative Computer Hardware Design) but I can't find an adapter kit for it.
> 
> I've contacted Phanteks, they replied saying there is no kit available and they don't intend to be releasing one, they'd rather focus on selling new coolers instead. I'm pretty disappointed by that given Noctua have released LGA1700 adapter kits for a lot of their old coolers already.
> 
> Has anyone managed to get a PH-TC14PE fitted to a 12th Gen Intel CPU yet? I'm wondering if the Noctua kits (Intel LGA1700 – all you need to know) might work?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any feedback.





doyll said:


> Phanteks hasn't released any new air coolers in long time, so probably not likely to be any new models.
> 
> Keep in mind when using LGA11xx mounting holes LGA1700 IHS is closer to motherboard.
> LGA1700 is 6.53-7.53 mm high .. that's 1.00mm tolerance.​LGA11xx is 7.31-8.25 mm high .. that's 0.94mm tolerance​That's about 0.72-0.78 mm lower.​Tallest LGA1700 spec is just 0.22mm tall than shortest LGA11xx, so sometimes there's enough mounting pressure, while other times it won't be enough. If mounting crossbar can be shimmed it's easy to put a spacer between crossbar and cooler base to push bottom of cooler closer / down harder on IHS.​It's the reason LGA1700 mounts use shorter spacers.


If my memory serves correct, you can mount a TC14PE using an NH-D15 (or any SecuFirm2) backplate and standoffs. If that is correct, the Noctua 1700 kit should work without issue on the TC14PE.

I don't have the parts on hand to confirm. @doyll - do you?


----------



## Dogzilla07

At first glance looks like it fits, what do you think guys ? @ciarlatano @doyll Left is Phanteks LGA 115*, right is Noctua LGA 1700.


----------



## doyll

Sorry ciarlatano, I don't have both to compare them. 

Looking a images of both it looks like ciarlatano is correct. 

Dogzilla07, if images are of your mounts, could you please measure and post spacer length? And if you have a Noctua mount for other CPUs, please measure and post it's spacer length. 

If both sets of LGA11xx spacers are same length / height user can either use Noctua LGA1700 spacers on Phanteks mount or make a set same length as Noctua LGA17xx. That said, Noctual LGA1700 mount is only $8-10. Probably easier to just use it, or at least it's spacers.

As has been said, some users have mounted their

Does motherboard you are getting have LGA11xx and LGA1700 mounting holes?


----------



## ciarlatano

doyll said:


> Sorry ciarlatano, I don't have both to compare them.
> 
> Looking a images of both it looks like ciarlatano is correct.
> 
> Dogzilla07, if images are of your mounts, could you please measure and post spacer length? And if you have a Noctua mount for other CPUs, please measure and post it's spacer length.
> 
> If both sets of LGA11xx spacers are same length / height user can either use Noctua LGA1700 spacers on Phanteks mount or make a set same length as Noctua LGA17xx. That said, Noctual LGA1700 mount is only $8-10. Probably easier to just use it, or at least it's spacers.
> 
> As has been said, some users have mounted their
> 
> Does motherboard you are getting have LGA11xx and LGA1700 mounting holes?


I would imagine the posts are shorter for 1700, also. I would just get the Noctua kit.


----------



## Dogzilla07

doyll said:


> Dogzilla07, if images are of your mounts, could you please measure and post spacer length? And if you have a Noctua mount for other CPUs, please measure and post it's spacer length.


I measured the Noctua spacers, the old LGA-115* are exactly 11mm. the new LGA-1700 are ~10.2m. I don't have more precise ways to measure, so the 1700 is my best guess after taking a photo and then measuring again (10.17-10.23mm).

I don't have Phanteks mounting, but if @pitchfork can measure his current Phanteks mounting parts, we could compare.

Brain fart originally, I put the current units type now xD I also went ahead and measured all 4 blue LGA-1700 ones, and they're not all the same size, 3 are really close, but one is definitely closer to 10.1mm


----------



## doyll

Dogzilla07 said:


> I measured the Noctua spacers, the old LGA-115* are exactly 11mm. the new LGA-1700 are ~10.2m. I don't have more precise ways to measure, so the 1700 is my best guess after taking a photo and then measuring again (10.17-10.23mm).
> 
> I don't have Phanteks mounting, but if @pitchfork can measure his current Phanteks mounting parts, we could compare.
> 
> Brain fart originally, I put the current units type now xD I also went ahead and measured all 4 blue LGA-1700 ones, and they're not all the same size, 3 are really close, but one is definitely closer to 10.1mm


Then it seems LGA1700 spacers are 0.77-0.09 mm shorter than LGA11x
11.0 - 10.23 = 0.77mm​11.0 - 10.17 = 0.83 mm​11.0 - 10.1 = 0.9 mm​So probably fair to say using a spacer about 0.8mm thick between mount crossbar and cooler base will lower base of cooler and apply needed pressure on LGA1700. 

Problem I've heard of is sometimes more pressure on big LGA1700 seems to distort IHS and give worse print than less pressure, so it's kinda a crap-shoot as to how how sort spacers should be / how much seat pressure is best for best IHS to cooler base seating and thus best heat transfer / cooling. 

Close made had above happen on his new build. While he was waiting for Noctua LGA1700 mount he installed NH-D15S with LGA11xx mount. After getting LGA1700 and switching his temps were higher. TIM seat with llxx mount near perfect over entire print area. 1700 print had heavier/more TIM in middle area than out areas of print. Sorry, can't find images he showed me. Think using a 0.5mm shim between crossbar and cooler base with LGA11xx mount ended up giving him best temps.


----------



## Dogzilla07

doyll said:


> Then it seems LGA1700 spacers are 0.77-0.09 mm shorter than LGA11x
> 11.0 - 10.23 = 0.77mm11.0 - 10.17 = 0.83 mm11.0 - 10.1 = 0.9 mm


Yeah, though if we asume I under-measured, by 0.4-0.5mm than it's pretty close to the official numbers.


doyll said:


> While he was waiting for Noctua LGA1700 mount he installed NH-D15S with LGA11xx mount. After getting LGA1700 and switching his temps were higher. TIM seat with llxx mount near perfect over entire print area. 1700 print had heavier/more TIM in middle area than out areas of print. Sorry, can't find images he showed me


I know what you're talking about, it's really a coin toss what's gonna happen with the LGA-1700, due to the possible bending from the pressure of the locking lever. The pressure is unrelated to coolers and their mounts. It's squarely too much force on the locking mechanism for the socket, and the rectangular shape of the CPU. But once it's been deformed, yeah, it's gonna impact some coolers, and a LGA-11xx with a ~5mm shim is a good idea.

0.5mm shim is like a nice middle ground, so it makes sense that worked.

Thankfully even though AM5 is gonna be LGA, there won't a pressure problem, due to the square shape.


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## D-EJ915

My TC14 came with a faulty mounting kit and the replacement they sent was different from the first one so hard to say if noctua's threading would work or not.


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## pitchfork

Thank you guys for the excellent responses, appreciate it. There may be life in the old cooler yet!



doyll said:


> Does motherboard you are getting have LGA11xx and LGA1700 mounting holes?


I haven't selected the board yet, however on the list and most likely candidate is the MSI Pro Z690-A DDR4 PRO Z690-A DDR4



Dogzilla07 said:


> I don't have Phanteks mounting, but if @pitchfork can measure his current Phanteks mounting parts, we could compare.


I'll have a look and see how hard this will be tomorrow. I haven't had the cooler off the CPU since I mounted it 7 years ago! It's running really well at the moment...


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## doyll

pitchfork said:


> Thank you guys for the excellent responses, appreciate it. There may be life in the old cooler yet!
> 
> 
> I haven't selected the board yet, however on the list and most likely candidate is the MSI Pro Z690-A DDR4 PRO Z690-A DDR4
> 
> 
> I'll have a look and see how hard this will be tomorrow. I haven't had the cooler off the CPU since I mounted it 7 years ago! It's running really well at the moment...


Motherboard doesn't have LGA11xx mounting holes, but it's easy to modify your Phanteks mount to fit LGA1700. Just file of nubs between LGA11xx and LGA1366 in backplate and strip adapter mounting slots. You can see the nub in top image and removed in bottom image in drawing below.









Be careful to keep mount aligned with CPU socket while installing because without the nubs in backplate and strip adapters don't index socket screws in place until tightened. My suggesting is install everything (including crossbar) just finger tight, wiggle / move around to line up, then tighten it all up. Reason I say install crossbar is so when you are installing cooler crossbar screws will match holes in strip adapers. I've had a few not match before I started attaching crossbar before tightening mount. 

Original drawing taken from Phanteks PH-TC14PE cooler manual.

You can try it with stock spacers, but it will probably not tighten down enough. If it is not tight enough file spacers so they are 0.5mm shorter. Factory LGA1700 spacers are 0.8-0.9mm shorter, so if it's still not tight enough you could shorten them some more.


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## Dogzilla07

pitchfork said:


> I haven't selected the board yet, however on the list and most likely candidate is the MSI Pro Z690-A DDR4 PRO Z690-A DDR4





doyll said:


> Motherboard doesn't have LGA11xx mounting holes, but it's easy to modify your Phanteks mount to fit LGA1700. Just file of nubs between LGA11xx and LGA1366 in backplate and strip adapter mounting slots. You can see the nub in top image and removed in bottom image in drawing below.


Alternatively any Asus Z690 board has dual holes, and Prime Z690-P D4 is similar to the MSI, while the cheaper Prime Z690M-PLUS D4 would also work (as it has 5x50A drMos doubled), which should put it slightly below the Maxsun, Soyo B660 on HardwareUnboxed testing regarding the VRMs. the bigger ATX Prime has a VRM slightly worse than the MSI you listed.

Here's a detailed comparison below:






Produktvergleich ASUS Prime Z690M-PLUS D4, ASUS Prime Z690-P D4, MSI PRO Z690-A DDR4 Geizhals EU


Produktvergleich für ASUS Prime Z690M-PLUS D4 (90MB18Q0-M0EAY0), ASUS Prime Z690-P D4 (90MB18P0-M0EAY0), MSI PRO Z690-A DDR4 (7D25-002R)




geizhals.eu


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## ciarlatano

Dogzilla07 said:


> Alternatively any Asus Z690 board has dual holes, and Prime Z690-P D4 is similar to the MSI, while the cheaper Prime Z690M-PLUS D4 would also work (as it has 5x50A drMos doubled), which should put it slightly below the Maxsun, Soyo B660 on HardwareUnboxed testing regarding the VRMs. the bigger ATX Prime has a VRM slightly worse than the MSI you listed.
> 
> Here's a detailed comparison below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Produktvergleich ASUS Prime Z690M-PLUS D4, ASUS Prime Z690-P D4, MSI PRO Z690-A DDR4 Geizhals EU
> 
> 
> Produktvergleich für ASUS Prime Z690M-PLUS D4 (90MB18Q0-M0EAY0), ASUS Prime Z690-P D4 (90MB18P0-M0EAY0), MSI PRO Z690-A DDR4 (7D25-002R)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> geizhals.eu


Yes, but the MSI Pro has been user reviewed as being a good value and reliable following a couple of BIOS updates, while the Prime Z690-P D4 has been shown to be lower quality and problematic. @Avacado had the Prime Z690-P D4 as a temp board and didn't have the kindest words for it, perhaps he can weigh in. The Z690 TUF has much better user reviews than the P and would seem the more logical jump if one were to shift to Asus.

But, if a $9 Noctua mounting kit solves the problem, why start looking to change MBs?


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## Avacado

ciarlatano said:


> Yes, but the MSI Pro has been user reviewed as being a good value and reliable following a couple of BIOS updates, while the Prime Z690-P D4 has been shown to be lower quality and problematic. @Avacado had the Prime Z690-P D4 as a temp board and didn't have the kindest words for it, perhaps he can weigh in. The Z690 TUF has much better user reviews than the P and would seem the more logical jump if one were to shift to Asus.
> 
> But, if a $9 Noctua mounting kit solves the problem, why start looking to change MBs?


I had purchased the board new off ebay. The build quality was subpar and very noticeable out of the box. 1st huge issue for me was no POST indicator lighting on the board at all. Zero, none, nada. It did not readily accept xmp on my B-Die Patriot Viper 4400 MHz kit, something that my Asus z390-A was able to do just fine. Honestly, after an hour of trying to get the thing setup, I had already placed the return order. I can't give you more than that as it pissed me off so badly that I only spent that hour with it.


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## D-EJ915

Avacado said:


> I had purchased the board new off ebay. The build quality was subpar and very noticeable out of the box. 1st huge issue for me was no POST indicator lighting on the board at all. Zero, none, nada. It did not readily accept xmp on my B-Die Patriot Viper 4400 MHz kit, something that my Asus z390-A was able to do just fine. Honestly, after an hour of trying to get the thing setup, I had already placed the return order. I can't give you more than that as it pissed me off so badly that I only spent that hour with it.


ddr4 controller on the 11th/12th gen chips is a bit different on 9th/10th gen and won't go that high clock speed in the optimum gear1 mode so you'd have problems with any board and gear2 mode is basically unoptimized/unused. On z590 only evga worked on gear2 performance. For a plug and play experience you're not going to get it with those sticks, if I were you I would read through the 12th gen DDR4 thread to set some expectations.

I didn't bother buying any ddr4 12th gen boards because none of them are oc oriented, not even having code readouts.


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## Avacado

D-EJ915 said:


> if I were you I would read through the 12th gen DDR4 thread to set some expectations.


No need. Iv'e been on a Unify-X and DDR5 for awhile now. But thank you.


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## D-EJ915

Avacado said:


> No need. Iv'e been on a Unify-X and DDR5 for awhile now. But thank you.


Good stuff, don't want someone to get frustrated over something stupid so wanted to point it out in case you didn't know.


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## bburnham37

I don't know if this info is still needed but maybe it will help someone out in the future.

I have a Phanteks PH-TC14PE and several Noctua coolers (D-14, D-15, etc.)
I mounted my Phanteks cooler just a week ago using the Noctua mounting bracket/backplate and hardware without an issue. I am pretty sure that was from a D-14, but the D-15 and C-14 also use the same hardware.
I have it on a 3770K and Gigabyte GA-Z77x-UD5H (1155 socket).
Couldn't find my Phanteks mounting hardware so it was lucky that the Noctua hardware was so remarkably similar.


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## Danderlyon

Just to chip in my own experience to aid anyone looking to see if you can wrangle your PH-TC14PE onto an LGA 1700 socket.

After looking at the Noctua comments in this thread, I purchased a noctua adapter bracket (Noctua NM-i17xx-MP83) with the hopes it would fit my cooler.

Coming to installation, it does work, but it isn't a smooth installation. I had to reverse one of the cross bars to get it to line up with the corresponding screws on the cooler, so rather than a ( ) shape I had a ( (, and it still only _barely _aligns. You also need as some other comments mentioned, a shim to place between the down clamp on the cooler and the cooler block to raise the height by 0.5-1mm. 

Without this it is just barely not enough to have proper contact with the cpu, though I was able to temporarily get around this by laying the PC on its side and letting gravity do the rest of the work whilst I fiddled around with other parts of my build. It was stable at around 40 degrees.


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## BDBB

@*Danderlyon *That actually is some great info because I'm in the exact same boat, trying to decide what to do with my PH-TC14PE for an upgrade to 13700k (from 8700k). Sounds like the Noctua bracket may not be the way to go. 

Seems like I could also get an Asus motherboard but there is still the problem of a spacer to get a tight fit. This is going to be a completely stupid question but what is everyone using for something like that? Is it something to grab at the hardware store, order off Newegg, etc? Just not sure how to get something that is actually the right measurement.

I guess the other alternative would be to just get a new cooler. Have they even advanced much in the last ~10 years or is the PH-TC14PE still on par with the top air coolers and AIOs? It's always been overkill up until now, but with the 13 gens being mostly limited by heat, some marginal improvement from a new cooler could matter.


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## Elrick

BDBB said:


> @*Danderlyon *That actually is some great info because I'm in the exact same boat, trying to decide what to do with my PH-TC14PE for an upgrade to 13700k (from 8700k). Sounds like the Noctua bracket may not be the way to go.


Still give it a go.



BDBB said:


> Seems like I could also get an Asus motherboard but there is still the problem of a spacer to get a tight fit.


ALWAYS have spare spacers in a toolkit, which consists of various Fibre/Plastic Washers and Spacers (thickness). Those alone I use for certain bracket placements, due to having so many CPU hardware under my roof.



BDBB said:


> I guess the other alternative would be to just get a new cooler. Have they even advanced much in the last ~10 years or is the PH-TC14PE still on par with the top air coolers and AIOs? It's always been overkill up until now, but with the 13 gens being mostly limited by heat, some marginal improvement from a new cooler could matter.


Yes, you can purchase another CPU cooler, but you will find going back to your favourite cooler time and time again, due to its ongoing superior performance. Remember that customising the bracket to fit your 13700k processor, should be done. Feel like it's custom tuning your Race Car for max performance.

Enjoy the ride.....


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## Danderlyon

BDBB said:


> @*Danderlyon *That actually is some great info because I'm in the exact same boat, trying to decide what to do with my PH-TC14PE for an upgrade to 13700k (from 8700k). Sounds like the Noctua bracket may not be the way to go.


No problem! I hate it when questions don't get resolved so I made the account specifically to post that 😁

If you can't get spacers in the right height/use the noctua spacers...I opted for a piece of thin copper sheet I just purchased off amazon, though you could certainly get similar from your local DIY store. Easy to cut with a sturdy pair of scissors to size, and to punch a hole through to allow space for the screw. I'd avoid using random plastic you find around the house as some kinds of plastic will deform under the heat and I wouldn't think that's a good idea to have around your new set up! Polypropylene sheet should be safe to use, if you can be certain that's the plastic you have to hand.

The jury is still out for me as to whether I keep my setup like this, or I just take on a new cooler. I'm going to give it a bit longer to see if any issues arise as I've only had it like this for just under a week. So far it's been handling my normal usage (gaming & solidworks 3D CAD) no issues.

I went from an i5 6600k to an i5 13600k with a Gigabyte B660 motherboard.


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## doyll

What Erlick said. 
Right now I'm not using my PH-TC14PE, but I will use it again. It's one of the very best coolers ever made. Phanteks revised the fans twice; from variable voltage to PWM to wider impeller (PH-F140HP II).

I had to remove crossbar thumbscrew to get middle fan low enough to install side cover on first install (Define R2) and never bothered putting it back in. Having crossbar fixed on cooler base is nice for installing because it helps center cooler and position crossbar. But once cooler is installed it doesn nothing.


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