# [Build Log] CaseLabs STH10 - Aquacomputer EVGA - "Seanimus448"



## Seanimus

Original post from August 2012:

Hello All,
My first post and my first liquid cooled build. Please provide comments to make this build better.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0Asb6QWTikIrvdEgzWnQ2RzN1QVpTZDRxdVN5VDdfYmc&single=true&gid=0&range=A1%3AF106&output=html&widget=true











so far all i have done is put the cpu into the board


Couldn't deal with the custom PSU 24 pin layout coming out of Corsair AX850. Purchased Silverstone.
Got EVGA PSU...new one..returned Silverstone

EVGA 690 Hydro Copper:




Aquacomputer Aqualis with NanoCoating



LG Blu Ray Drive


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## mphysgr

Hey, I have a TH10 and am planning on using much of the same aquacomputer gear. I will be interested in seeing what you do with it.
Subbed


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## theseekeroffun

You should send your A-5 faceplate to Jim and have him powdercoat it for you, that's what I did.



The Aqua rads are very restrictive, so you will have crank the D-5's. Good luck and nice gear, especially the case.


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## Seanimus

Spent this afternoon painting the faceplate of the Bluray, A5 and a 3.5 bay Akasa multi card carder/usb 3.0.
The A5 is being stubborn, had to resand and doing 2nd try now.

May have to send to Jim at CaseLabs.

Just got my Canon t4i back yesterday; will post pictures once the paint has dried.


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## Seanimus

The white case:

macrolens shot:


Priming:

Result:


Have to redo the 3.25 Card Reader.....pressed it too hard in the corner before 24hrs.

Sample try in case:


Still waiting on sleeving from Nils...received this so far:


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## Seanimus

Aquaero 5 ; can't get it to fit in 5.25 bay of STH10. I am obviously doing something wrong since so many have installed this on STH10; so if you have STH10 with Aquaero 5, let me know what I am doing wrong.

theseekeroffun is going to help me tomorrow...In the mean time here's the issue.

It looks like Aquaero 5 (LT and XT) are approx. 148MM wide:


And on STH10 case..can't get it to fit ...note left side in photograph - it's off by 1-2 mm...sigh


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## Lazy Bear

Well subbed for sure, this looks exciting.


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## Seanimus

Posting pictures of new parts that arrived..
monsoon fittings:

Aquacomputer Flowmeter USB:


the top part of Blu Ray painted white:




turned out well...especially with Matte coating on that..it feels nice.

Updated first post with new dates for Aquacomputer D5 (9/6) and its adaptor (9/14) for Aqualis. This delay from Aquacomputer would put me out of reach for any RMA's with the entire NewEgg order.

Also getting new Powersupply from EVGA the Supernova....Lost like $100 in just restocking fees with 2 returns on PSU's ..sigh....But hey I am down to one PSU and it definitely seems better.


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## Seanimus

Can anyone help with Aquaero 5 in 5.25 bays of STH10...please see post 7. Thanks.


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## LiquidHaus

very interested to see how this develops lol subbed!


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## theseekeroffun

I cannot tell for sure what your problem is. Here are a couple of pics that I hope will help you.





Yours should be easier to mount than mine, all of my mounting brackets are powder coated.


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## airs

Seanimus - I had the same issue with my STH10 and Aquaero 5 - you need to loosen the bolts(?) on the A5 a bit - then push on both sides to make sure the brackets are as narrow as possible, then tighten and install.


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## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airs*
> 
> Seanimus - I had the same issue with my STH10 and Aquaero 5 - you need to loosen the bolts(?) on the A5 a bit - then push on both sides to make sure the brackets are as narrow as possible, then tighten and install.


I should have pointed that out.


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## Seanimus

airs: Thank you!! that worked
theseekeroffun: Thanks as well for responding.


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## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> airs: Thank you!! that worked
> theseekeroffun: Thanks as well for responding.


No problem, it's a rule of thumb to me, don't tighten any screws until you have finalized the placement of the part.


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## Seanimus

this is it mounted. I am thinking for top half to go this way...since bluray will be accessed more times few months down the road than the AQ5. And thinking of putting some hardisks in the fan hd mount (center), to deflect air on to the AQ5.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7891164812/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7891162884/

Package from mdpc...Not sure I am going with the Color-X (maroon) as yet..but this is what it looks like. Have new order with Orange
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7891161004/

New Power Supply.. Returned 2 of them so far and moved from dual power supply to single. First was 2x850-Corsairs, then 2x850-Silverstones, now 1x1500-EVGA Classified
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7891155706/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7891157624/

The packaging from EVGA Supernova for cables:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7891390236/

The sleeving on EVGA is good...but I dont think it will hold 16AWG which MDPC can, and without doubt the quality on MDPC is higher. Stacked on top of sleeving from MDPC:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7891388042/

A closeup of MDPC:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7891385974/
versus EVGA sleeving:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7891381412/

EVGA sleeving is good..but cannot compare to MDPC.


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## Electrocutor

Looking good so far, though I feel bad for your D5s: what a cruel slave driver 

[Edit]
A quick note about your radiators if you didn't already know. The direction that the air from your fans flows across the radiator decides which direction you should run the water. If you run the water backwards from the right air flow, you could potentially lose 75% of their cooling ability.


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## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Looking good so far, though I feel bad for your D5s: what a cruel slave driver
> [Edit]
> A quick note about your radiators if you didn't already know. The direction that the air from your fans flows across the radiator decides which direction you should run the water. If you run the water backwards from the right air flow, you could potentially lose 75% of their cooling ability.


Thanks for the information. No I did not know....don't know much about liquid cooling in general; just background from reading posts. When I get to that spot (post 9/16), I will definitely PM you to make sure I got it right.


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## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks for the information. No I did not know....don't know much about liquid cooling in general; just background from reading posts. When I get to that spot (post 9/16), I will definitely PM you to make sure I got it right.


Sounds good, but it's not really complicated. Those radiators are 4-pass, layered; so the air that comes in passes through 4 sections (outside to inside). You just want to make sure that the hottest water is at the last place the air gets to, so as the water flow forward it reaches cooler air. If it runs the other way, then the first pass heats the air up and passes the hot air to the next 3 passes, mostly negating their cooling potential.


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## derickwm

Mmm this build looks like mine, but with more progress









Well done!


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## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Mmm this build looks like mine, but with more progress
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well done!


Yours is more contrasty with the black instead of white. This is more smooth transition.


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## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Sounds good, but it's not really complicated. Those radiators are 4-pass, layered; so the air that comes in passes through 4 sections (outside to inside). You just want to make sure that the hottest water is at the last place the air gets to, so as the water flow forward it reaches cooler air. If it runs the other way, then the first pass heats the air up and passes the hot air to the next 3 passes, mostly negating their cooling potential.


That makes sense...I have the google sketchup of the AMS 420 in a MM Case that I was designing last year...Then priorities shifted. I ended up building all the parts individually in Google Sketchup.
Long story short...in this setup it is correct...based on what you said...fans in front..hot water would go in the empty slot next to the one where the tube goes out to video card. That way hot water goes to the copper pipes that you can see furthest away from fan

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7897167998/

Here's another shot showing the in/out ports on AMS
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7897203144/


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## Electrocutor

Unfortunately, I don't know which side is up in this picture. All three ins will go to the same place and all three outs come from the same place, so it doesn't matter which ports you use, but you need to know which side of the radiator is in and which is out.

That means that one of the two rads you have in the front of your diagram is facing the wrong way; but I don't know which.


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## Seanimus

Thanks for the information. We can guess that AQ would have AMS with D5 Pump + reservoir in the optimal configuration (since the fans are typically placed where the gap is to flush with reservoir). And work backwards after seeing which side the Out port lands (G1/4 on sides).....
Based on that, in my second picture, I am guessing the left radiator is correct with the orange tube.. and the right raidiator without any connections is wrong.


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## Seanimus

Asus 3D Monitor - Glasses Pictures
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7906632964/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7906630746/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7906628136/


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## Electrocutor

If only some of the game developers didn't purposely design their games to not work well with nVidia 3D Vision. When it works or when you can modify a game to work well with them, it's pretty amazing.


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## Seanimus

Electrocutor: good to know...not sure which games i will play other than Battlefield , Warcraft and I think my son wants to try FF PC version..

Sanded down the Memory Card Reader and redid the paint job with Matte Finish. Not sure what those white dots..may have to redo it again..can't see it unless photographed in right light..arghh...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7910153002/

Disassembled the Power Supply- EVGA Supernova..found out it uses PVM fans...have to order Cougar ones now to replace. Sanded it down...to late in the night to cut out the center piece of those concentric circles..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7910150972/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7910148940/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7910146738/

That paint is thick...have to resand tomorrow...here it is so far...at least the surface is very smooth now. The original looked good, but was rough to the touch..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7910144756/


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## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Electrocutor: good to know...not sure which games i will play other than Battlefield , Warcraft and I think my son wants to try FF PC version..


At the very least, you have to install Skyrim and the mods needed to use 3D Vision properly in it. After you pick your jaw back up you can play your other games. The best-looking game I've ever seen in 3D Vision is Neverwinter Nights 2, but it has playability issues in 3D. It's crazy... you can even see stuff like the depth of the wood grain on a table leg in the corner as clear as day.


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## Seanimus

Skyrim definitely....nephew & son are crazy about that...sure others will come to mind.


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## Seanimus

EVGA Supernova changed its look...

Ordered a Cougar PWM fan...looks like the pin to the right also takes 3 pin fan connector...but why mess with things..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7918186202/

Sanded it down using orbital sander, and cut that ugly looking fan grill...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7918182932/

My dremel kit, which I bought few months back during my sons 8th grade project
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7918179894/

Washed and cleaned...shouldn't have used paper towel...you will see later why..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7918175020/

My 5 series BMW ..parked it outside...far away from any primer/paint.. I got the white BMW before the white CaseLabs..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7918172506/

Its primed....and my son started to do his Gameboy modding as well:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7918169224/

Here's why not to use paper towel...or I should have filed it more..the under side is very rough...the original EVGA ..the quality does not flow to the underside of the EVGA top part...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7918164730/

Painted Bright White with multiple coats to hide the bright red original paint:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7918158930/

Exacto knife to cut out the EVGA impression
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7918156604/

Ugly shot:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7918151812/

Redid it with a frame...forgot to take a shot in between..and put a Cougar 120 mm fan...its not connected as its not PWM as yet..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7918144140/

Oops forgot the stickers...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7918139130/

The connectors :
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7918136552/

The front where the CaseLabs cover (with mesh) will go in front:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7918131754/

I didn't mess with the back and taking that handle out..have to desolder the power and remove entire pcb...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7918126300/

By the way where do you get a 4 pin mini fan connector...The connectors inside the powersupply are not standard.


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## GREG MISO

That looks so amazing. Oh and the car too


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## Shpongle

Subbed for sure. That's a great idea swapping out the fan in the PSU for a Cougar fan.

Btw, loving the Alpine White f10 fiver. Is it a 535i or a 550i? Or possibly an M5?


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## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GREG MISO*
> 
> That looks so amazing. Oh and the car too


Thanks...I love my car...have reverse commute at 90 mph and is so much fun.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shpongle*
> 
> Subbed for sure. That's a great idea swapping out the fan in the PSU for a Cougar fan.
> Btw, loving the Alpine White f10 fiver. Is it a 535i or a 550i? Or possibly an M5?


Noo..have to go eco now...returned black 535i in july, and got 528i for fuel effeciency...gives 28mpg and loving the drive at high speed....can go half mile to exit, without hitting the gas at high speed..


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## Seanimus

The answer on which side to place the fans on AMS.
In this shot it is wrong. You have to place fans on the other side. So if the side "out port" faces down as in picture; then the fans should go on right .
Sven Hanisch from Aquacomputer support provided this information..Thanks Sven.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7810623862/


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## Seanimus

Is this CPU-Heat block from AQ defective? see 4th picture below.. Also can i place Kryos in the direction shown in picture 5 & 6

At least 16 AWG fits; It takes a bit of effort.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7924940362/

Starting to put motherboard to take correct measurements for cable construction:

Took those 3 motherboard standoffs out (with screws on them)..not needed on EVGA Classified
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7924958090/

With motherboard on
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7924955488/

See the right side...i tried cleaning it off with small amount of windex and soap...nothing
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7924951124/

Assembled loosely without TIM
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7924947290/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7924943760/


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## LiquidHaus

love that cpu block, i was eyeing that for a while when i was building my rig up. i think it matches the evga board up pretty well, nice choice!


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## Seanimus

If anyone knows about that CPU block being defective (the way it looks in previous post)

Also which slot can I place my single 690 hydro copper? Was thinking furthest from CPU ; but didn't know if I still get 16x 3.0 support on that slot.


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## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> If anyone knows about that CPU block being defective (the way it looks in previous post)
> Also which slot can I place my single 690 hydro copper? Was thinking furthest from CPU ; but didn't know if I still get 16x 3.0 support on that slot.


it should say in small writing on the actual motherboard, next to each pci slot or most likely the manual.


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## Seanimus

Thanks lifeisshort117. I see it in the maxed out picture now..
Hopefully AQ will respond about the CPU Block.


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## ProChargedLS2

MOAR MOAR MOAR MOAR!!!!!!!!!

I hope to see more pictures and more details by the time I get back from school!







good solid build dude, makes me jealous I went all out on everything but a cheap case


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## Seanimus

EVGA 690 update
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProChargedLS2*
> 
> MOAR MOAR MOAR MOAR!!!!!!!!!
> I hope to see more pictures and more details by the time I get back from school!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good solid build dude, makes me jealous I went all out on everything but a cheap case


Thanks.

Some pictures of EVGA 690 with backplate..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7934123772/
This card is heavy....
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7934121498/

Should have thought ahead and not ordered a backplate; if you have a reverse motherboard build ..http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7934119404/

My options for placing single 690 - I guess are Slot 1 and 4:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7933912266/

In Slot 4:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7934117064/

Full view which will "show off" the EVGA Classified Motherboard:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7934114434/

Top view..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7934111280/

This is lowest view I can get on a raised platform..and you can barely see the back plate in Slot 4
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7934109122/

Will see tomorrow how it will look in Slot 1


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## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> This is lowest view I can get on a raised platform..and you can barely see the back plate in Slot 4


it's the details like that "mistake" that'll make it a really good build though


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## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Is this CPU-Heat block from AQ defective? see 4th picture below..
> (...)
> i tried cleaning it off with small amount of windex and soap...nothing


As already replied by e-mail it is only a natural chemical reaction from the copper. It seems that someone accidentally touched the surface while assembling or packing the block. It has no impact on performance at all and is only a visual flaw.

You can easily fix it when you want to: remove the copper base, place it in a dish with water and add some citric acid. It will slightly etch the surface so the discoloration will disappear. That sounds dangerous but it is not at all. It will also not harm the surface in any way.


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## Seanimus

Thanks Shoggy. Updated private forum in mdpc with response, but not here at overclock.


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## cpachris

I'm in for this one. Love what you did with the PSU. Will you confirm whether the cables are run straight...with one pin to one pin? Read somewhere on here that it was, but would like confirmation. Sure would make it easier to sleeve if that's the case.


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## stren

Great work so far - we have matching PSU's lol, I was going to paint mine too, but I'm slacking as usual. Yay for bimmers too - I have a 335


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## cpachris

There's no need to move your car or protect it when you're painting your case...



Just park it close and let the overspray do the car also....


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## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> it's the details like that "mistake" that'll make it a really good build though


Thanks for reassuring me that it was a good choice.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm in for this one. Love what you did with the PSU. Will you confirm whether the cables are run straight...with one pin to one pin? Read somewhere on here that it was, but would like confirmation. Sure would make it easier to sleeve if that's the case.


.
Yes confirmed. But for some reason the +5V sleeving and wire are smaller gauge than rest, including ground. Will post pictures later.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Great work so far - we have matching PSU's lol, I was going to paint mine too, but I'm slacking as usual. Yay for bimmers too - I have a 335


Thanks Stren. By the way did you win your SuperNova in a competition (Think I saw your name on winners list). If yes, EVGA will never consider me for future events, after seeing what I did to their PSU..lol.
Also getting some grief to find a way to take that handle out of powersupply in another forum. It is so embedded in the circuitry that one would have desolder the input power and switch and remove 4 screws to get to the nuts that hold that back handle in palce. If you do this and find an easy way; let me know.


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## Dr Acula

Wicked build. Love the colour scheme you're going for, especially loving the white. Giving me heaps of inspiration for what I'm wanting to do, seeing as I have 200ft of White paracord ready to be sleeved and will be buying a ton of White spray paint.


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## Seanimus

AQ D5 Pump with USB arrived which is good news:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7940886144/

*Bad news is that D5 Pump Adaptor for Aqualis with USB is now changed shipping date to almost 9/21*. Sheesh...such torture.

Placed the radiator with 140 mm Cougar fans to get some measurements going on sleeving and how to do cabling
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7940884252/

Found out a few things here..
1) One not going to use MDPC orange..is way too bright and go with Special Grey..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7940882250/

2) For all cabling to motherboard will go with Color-x (maroon) as accent to white sleeving:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7940880236/

3) Can probably place an extra set of 3 fans in between the 2 radiators (left one yet to be placed). Took a shot of the Canon Macro lens for my T4i while in the process..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7940872206/

If you are getting screws for this type of installation. Please get the 35mm M3 screws from MDPC with washer. Its world of difference for 2 reasons. 1) Its cheaper from Germany compared to FrozenCPU (talking like $20 nothing big) and 2) It looks awesome..
Left shot with MDPC screw (should say bolt) and washer and right one with only MDPC screw..taken with Macro lens..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7940875108/

I have to figure out how to place the AQ5 LT on the rear of the fan, where majority of the power load is going to be. The main AQ5 XT is for light load and one RGB..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7940878276/
another angle..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7940876484/


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## Eric335

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stren*
> 
> Great work so far - we have matching PSU's lol, I was going to paint mine too, but I'm slacking as usual. Yay for bimmers too - I have a 335


Join the club







2007 SGM E92 335i (with the older N54). Hence my username









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*


I just went through the whole thread, and damn, thats an awesome/expensive build! Nice!


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## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eric335*
> 
> Join the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2007 SGM E92 335i (with the older N54). Hence my username
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just went through the whole thread, and damn, thats an awesome/expensive build! Nice!


2008 (n54 also) e90 manual, sports/premium

Anyway enough off OT








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks for reassuring me that it was a good choice.
> .
> Yes confirmed. But for some reason the +5V sleeving and wire are smaller gauge than rest, including ground. Will post pictures later.
> Thanks Stren. By the way did you win your SuperNova in a competition (Think I saw your name on winners list). If yes, EVGA will never consider me for future events, after seeing what I did to their PSU..lol.
> Also getting some grief to find a way to take that handle out of powersupply in another forum. It is so embedded in the circuitry that one would have desolder the input power and switch and remove 4 screws to get to the nuts that hold that back handle in palce. If you do this and find an easy way; let me know.


Yes I won mine







Yeah I've heard it's a nightmare to remove. I'm not too worried about it though because it's small compared to the amount of clearance for the power cable to make the bend









I'll be messing with mine - just too busy to touch it right now!


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## netdevil

I noticed that you ordered the aquacomputer d5 variant and was very interested in how it works eg. can you control the speed of it like the mcp35x and all the other functions what do they do. I have a mcp35x2 now and plan to get 2 of those Aquacomputer D5s for my next build. It would be nice if you could shed some light on that









Do you guys think that the bp modkit ( http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_773&products_id=34693)
can still fit in those D5 I am thinking unlikely.

And I love that white-red combo, this is all coming together now..beautiful.

And dam you guys who are all building those epic builds at the same time all have this thing in common bimmers









Just out of college and can only dream of owning the builds and the cars


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## Andstraus

Total: $8,436.09...What...


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## Seanimus

Cougar PWM fan arrived.. I guess PSU Fan connector can have non-standard connections inside. can anyone confirm.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7946800580/

So Cougar PWM Fan Connector original is
Pin 1- Black - Ground
Pin 2- Red- 12V
Pin 3- Yellow - RPM Sensor
Pin 4 -Blue/Brown/Greeen/Other Color - Control

San Ace 9G1212P4G03 is also as above in their data sheet

I believe above is standard layout for PWM used on motherboards.

But for the PSU "mini" Fan Conector it goes differently (see picture above on right)...
Pin 1- Black - Ground
Pin 2 -Blue/Brown/Greeen/Other Color - Control
Pin 3- Red- 12V
Pin 4- Yellow - RPM Sensor

So I just have to solder the cougar fan wires color for color together except blue wire from cougar will go to brown original fan connector).
I dont have that really small mini fan connector or mini-pins to crimp.
Its goign to be hidden so I dont really care. But can someone confirm if this is correct ?


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## Electrocutor

Do you have some aligator wires to test it before you solder?


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## Seanimus

How do I test it inside the power supply? PSU can discharge even when turned off no?
Or you mean test the San Ace as a standalone separately with any other PSU ?


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> How do I test it inside the power supply? PSU can discharge even when turned off no?
> Or you mean test the San Ace as a standalone separately with any other PSU ?


Under the San Ace sticker you have exposed wire leads. Just be careful when doing it and use a multimeter first if you have one.


----------



## Seanimus

Will skip this mod for now and come back to it in few weeks when aq d5 pump adaptor arrives. Connected original sanace back. After build is done will test to make sure sanace runs and find out what load and then connect cougar in after a few Hours of shutdown. Don't want those huge capacitors to discharge on me.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> So connect psu with sanace as psu fan; leave casing open. Use multimeter to find power and ground. That will confirm red and black wire. If its non-standard assume that rpm and control wires are as described in earlier post.?


You should be able to use the multimeter to determine the pulse (control) wire as well.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> You should be able to use the multimeter to determine the pulse (control) wire as well.


Thanks electrocuter. Will come back to this when I test original parts in few weeks.
Sorry I changed my earlier post while you were responding.

Don't know if you saw but aq d5 pump adaptor is now 9/21. Date changed again


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks electrocuter. Will come back to this when I test original parts in few weeks.
> Sorry I changed my earlier post while you were responding.
> Don't know if you saw but aq d5 pump adaptor is now 9/21. Date changed again


Ahh okay. When you get around to it, just be sure to be careful; one of my friend's father lost all feeling in his nose for life due to getting too close to a capacitor once.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Ahh okay. When you get around to it, just be sure to be careful; one of my friend's father lost all feeling in his nose for life due to getting too close to a capacitor once.


Yep don't want to mess with psu cover being open for now. FYI: I did get it confirmed that both cougar and sanace have same pin settings for standard motherboard connectors.
I believe EVGlA changed to mini connector for their layout. So going color for color from cougar wire to EVGA mini fan connector "would" work.


----------



## ShadowSkill

Subbed for sure.. This is one sweet build.. Loving everything so far.


----------



## Seanimus

Electrocutor: I did this today. Couldn't wait when I saw the following in the sheet included with power supply.

I can run the fan without any load by turning DIP switches 1 and 4.

It started to blink at the back and thats when I realized also you have to enable DIP Switch 5 for Switches to be enabled.


Tested the wires to make sure they correct. black was ground, red at 11.66 V; control (brown) around 3.6V and rpm (yellow) was around 0.9 V.


Don't have Mini-GPU fan connector or method to crimp so I decided to solder Cougar wires to original PSU mini fan connector:

Put some heatshrink around each solder


Put a black heat shrink around all of the that above (forgot to take a shot). You can see other end of the MDPC heat shrink in shot below..

Fan is SO MUCH quieter than San ACE. I would say less than half at 100% load.


Running as assembled. One afterthought, don't be generous in length I left an inch more on the cabling and had a hard time putting cover back on. Make it the same length as original.


Got a CaseLabs PSU Holder and put the rubber tape and exacto knifed it out:


Shot from under without the PSU weight bringing it down:


Look at that beauty from EVGA...Runs with no connections..No need to jump start or put load:




The 12 AWG Cable. You can see the LED at the back at the moment it is green, as it is running (sorry flash since no white light there..messed up shot)


In Off mode, the LED is red. If issues it will blink.


----------



## cpachris

nice.


----------



## Electrocutor

I'm glad the whole thing went easily for you. Are you planning to put a mesh or cage or something over the fan to ward away any stray wires?


----------



## Seanimus

No. becuase caselabs has a mesh on the cover that goes on. No point of 2 meshes. Atleast that was the original plan when I cut out the original evga fan gril.


----------



## Seanimus

Here's a shot with the CaseLabs Cover/Mesh.



One thing...How come I don't have Black screws for the Mounting the PSU at the back. Should have come from CaseLabs or EVGA?
Anyone with CaseLabs or EVGA Supernova..can you confirm if you have Black PSU Mounting screws..?

Annoying little thing...have to ask now CaseLabs and EVGA....Maybe I jsut can't find them in the big mess in the house.


----------



## Electrocutor

MY CL came with a ton of spare screws on top of what was needed. The PSU screws were thumb screws in a bag taped to the outside of the PSU cover plates bag.


----------



## Seanimus

Yeah I have a ton those. But they don't fit.
It appears that PSU takes M3 0.5MM thread size screws, as the one on left fits and goes in smoothly. The thumb screws from CL makes a only one turn in PSU and then gets stuck. Don't want to force it until I am sure.

EVGA should have supplied thumb screws but have not seen it in any of the unboxing videos.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7955828634/


----------



## Electrocutor

It's normal for a PSU not to provide screws, but the standard PSU screw is not M3. That seems an odd choice.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> It's normal for a PSU not to provide screws, but the standard PSU screw is not M3. That seems an odd choice.


Agreed. The CaseLabs thumbscrews fit my Corsair.


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks for that information. I can stop looking in house now for EVGA screws...








Don't know if I should force the CL Thumb Screws or send EVGA a note first to confirm size.


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks Electrocutor and cpachris.
Just had to give one hard turn and rest went fine for 3 of them. 4th was a bit harder but it went through. Guess its normal for PSU screws to be hard to put in, so it gets a good grip for slots without PSU support bracket.
Looks much better








http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7956109160/

A shot of the Motherboard back plate. Can reset CMOS back there...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7956104718/
.


----------



## Systemlord

I had the same issue with my CL thumb screws, one of them didn't want to go into my Seasonic PSU so I gave it more force and it went in after a few turns without any problems. Probably is the finish on the CL screws or unclean threads.


----------



## Seanimus

Used the 3M Fiber thing on 24-PIN PSU connector (left on picture below) to start getting measurements on cables going..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7959746064/

wil have to do the motherboard connector as well..
and while doing that maybe eveng those shiny back plate connectors..so many serial numbers on an EVGA motherboard--getting distracting:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7959748322/

the problem is that those sleeved connections into the motherboard are going to look real congested..going through the default CL cutouts.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7959751556/

Thinking of just cutting a bigger cutout; joining both cutouts and expanding to the left; and placing 0.25" (~6mm) white acrylic there with white CCFL back light..that will be a lot of work..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7959743358/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7959750074/


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I had the same issue with my CL thumb screws, one of them didn't want to go into my Seasonic PSU so I gave it more force and it went in after a few turns without any problems. Probably is the finish on the CL screws or unclean threads.


Thanks for response.


----------



## Seanimus

So for the cutout..had to clean my garage work table. That center section is big.
My 8 foot garage workbench will probably survive a hurricane, while the rest of the house flies away (built it myself):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7967267422/
Those double 2x4" right angled legs..heh
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7967264210/

Started to mask the center section:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7967261130/

Handy dandy JigSaw:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7967258314/
Not that bad..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7967252446/

Filed it, sanded a bit and primer on just that cut..leaving rest of CL unthouched with primer or paint.

Had nothing to do, so decided to cut the white acrylic to try it out behind the CL cutout:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7967246694/

Behind the CL, to mark holes to drill for bolts.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7967243734/

Sorry got excited and missed taking a few shots:
But here added CCFL at the back and voila:
Those cables are default EVGA and is not connected to PSU. Just there to gauge spacing and tension on wires
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7967241624/

Here's another shot with no back lights:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7967235874/

And one back light (about 2000K light):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7967230006/


----------



## cpachris

Black Label and power tools. Nice combo.









That 24pin in the Black Label should be your avatar.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Black Label and power tools. Nice combo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That 24pin in the Black Label should be your avatar.


Well the back label is after like 5 hours of work. Would not mix the black label and those power tools. Will probably lose some fingers.
Deleted the black label shot...don't want to spoil the minors.


----------



## Eric335

This build is coming along very nice. I love the look of that motherboard and the GTX 690 coppers. Going to be one fast and sexy rig


----------



## Seanimus

Here's another shot with focus on White Acrylic/Wires/Light.
Note this is not the sleeving I am going to use..just default EVGA cables; for measurement. MDPC sleeving is all white with Maroon or maybe orange/grey accent; which is yet to be made:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7967794432/


----------



## ShadowSkill

Looks amazing so far.. MORE MORE MORE!!!


----------



## Soul.

Thumbs up! Looks like its going to be an awesome build!

Can't wait to see all the sleeving done with the cables!


----------



## Seanimus

Need some thoughts on this one..
so in terms of cabling;

PSU: realized that I need another 6 inches /15 cms for PSU cable...so its good I have 16AWG Wire.
Radiator Fans: For fan cabling was planning to use ModMyToys Distribution Block so replacement of fans is easier.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7974681018/

Question is should i solder new cabling from right most fan so that it would reach (short at the moment); OR use female fan connector pin to extend to distribution block OR just eliminate the distribution block all together and have all fans on a single radiator going to a single cable into the AQ5 LT.
Last option would leave me at a disadvantage of redoing sleeving when fan gets busted few years down the road
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7974660540/


----------



## RatDog

I used a similar version of that distribution strip to my 5 XT and it works great.

I am sure you thought of this but I would make sure you think about running more than 3 or 4 of those Cougars off a single header on the 5 XT. They pull 0.3 AMPS each and the 5XT has a max of 5 Amps across all four channels if you water cool the fan amps on the back of the board. If you go more than 3 to a single header you will limit the draw you can place on the others. If you want to run a bunch of fans off a single header you might look at the power adjust that can handle a little over 2 Amps on the one channel.

I don't follow Martins lead and smoke your XT like he did when he was reviewing it


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks RatDog.
I linked wrong distribution picture. Should stop thinking too much...
The odd connector (picture below) is going to LT5 . Which would give me option of replacing one fan at a time, if it gets busted.

Could get 4x of these distribution going as 2x into LT, giving capacity of 6 fans per radiator to one LT header. Not that I am going 6 fans per radiator for sure..just a thought for expansion.

If this works , then still the question on extending wiring by soldering at fan (under sticker- would get messy) OR soldering wires (easier) OR female extension connector for right most fan.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7975228941/

Edit: Yes I forgot about the total draw of Amps. Hmm I have to rethink the wiring part again taking it account the draw. Had this all figured out few months back with PA2's, and then dropped PA2's when USB Pumps came out.


----------



## Seanimus

@RatDog
Thanks man. Wiring definitely needs to be longer after doing the layout and load is now split for fans (Have to use AQ XT as well.):

Anyone see any issues here in this layout (sorry couldn't make it simpler):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7978294817/

Questions probably for Shoggy...But if anyone knows please chime in:
1) I think I can skip the Aquabus connectors on D5, D5 Adaptor, & Flow Meter?
2) Any way to get all those Alarms into a nice 5.25 bay with speaker to see which unit failed via LED indicators? (heh)
3) D5 has temp connections and D5 Pump adaptor also has temp connections. Any of them worth connecting when D5 is going USB?
4) D5 Pump Adaptor --where is the Fill Sensor--is that via USB...or what I marked as Temperature is really Fill Level Sensor?


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks RatDog.
> I linked wrong distribution picture. Should stop thinking too much...
> The odd connector (picture below) is going to LT5 . Which would give me option of replacing one fan at a time, if it gets busted.
> Could get 4x of these distribution going as 2x into LT, giving capacity of 6 fans per radiator to one LT header. Not that I am going 6 fans per radiator for sure..just a thought for expansion.
> If this works , then still the question on extending wiring by soldering at fan (under sticker- would get messy) OR soldering wires (easier) OR female extension connector for right most fan.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Yes I forgot about the total draw of Amps. Hmm I have to rethink the wiring part again taking it account the draw. Had this all figured out few months back with PA2's, and then dropped PA2's when USB Pumps came out.


How does that thing worK?


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> How does that thing worK?


Just connecting cables nothing fancy is my guess. Only use is- for convenience on replacing fans without soldering them together. You would still need to connect only one fan with RPM sensor into that and others would be clipped. I can confirm when I get one.

Any comments on wiring diagram will be helpful.


----------



## Electrocutor

I'm not sure the RGB LED will function on a slaved LT?


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I'm not sure the RGB LED will function on a slaved LT?


Thanks for reviewing Electrocutor...If true, that is a huge setback to my plans with no recourse in mind.








Shoggy any comment on this and questions in above post..


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> @RatDog
> Thanks man. Wiring definitely needs to be longer after doing the layout and load is now split for fans (Have to use AQ XT as well.):
> Anyone see any issues here in this layout (sorry couldn't make it simpler):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: diagram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Questions probably for Shoggy...But if anyone knows please chime in:
> 1) I think I can skip the Aquabus connectors on D5, D5 Adaptor, & Flow Meter?
> 2) Any way to get all those Alarms into a nice 5.25 bay with speaker to see which unit failed via LED indicators? (heh)
> 3) D5 has temp connections and D5 Pump adaptor also has temp connections. Any of them worth connecting when D5 is going USB?
> 4) D5 Pump Adaptor --where is the Fill Sensor--is that via USB...or what I marked as Temperature is really Fill Level Sensor?


You are using the newest of the new products so not sure on some of your questions and maybe Shoggy can chime in here but here are my thoughts.

1) I _think_ instead of USB you want to use the aquabus connector because then flow, temp, and fill level are all consolidated in the Aquaero 5 XT.
2) Well you could use relays to fire the LED's on alarm but that would be a little crazy to construct
3) It depends on how many places you want to get a temp reading. For me the water into the rads and water out of the rads are the two most important to know how well my loop is cooling. Any other temps are more informational.
4) The fill sensor, as I understand it from the brief Aqua documentation on this stuff, is based on a pressure reading that is part of the pump housing and uses that port on the side of the res. That is a little vague to me as well.

I really wish Aqua would do a better job of documenting their stuff so everyone doesn't have to do this guessing game.


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I'm not sure the RGB LED will function on a slaved LT?


Have you tried that or are you just guessing?


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> How does that thing worK?


It is a fan power distribution block. You hook a female to female 3 pin from the Aquaero 5 fan header to that block then hook up each of your fans. It is the same as those multi fan cables but just on a small PCB instead.

One word of caution, that board you linked, Seanimus, has all three pins going to all the fan headers. If you hook it up this way your RPM readings will jump all over the place since the fans are not perfectly synced for any given voltage. I used a small screwdriver to scrape and break the RPM trace after the first header so the aquaero would only see RPM from fan #1 but power all three (or more for the bigger board).


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RatDog*
> 
> Have you tried that or are you just guessing?


Just a guess based on what Shoggy said. I'm not sure anyone can actually try it since the slave firmware hasn't been released yet?


----------



## Seanimus

I am staying away from that board Ratdog for other reasons as well...
Here is the response from AQ:
to answer your questions.

1.) There is no need to connect everything via aquabus. When connected via USB you also have everything available in the aquasuite but of course the devices can not communicate with each other. So for example you can not use the flow rate or temperature value directly with the aquaero. If this is a no go and you want to connect it: note that you have to use the USB connection first for an initial setup and configuration since the aquabus does not offer all options.

2.) No, that is not possible.

3.) As long as you do not have anything in your system that you want to monitor it will make no sense to attach any additional sensors here.

4.) I guess you mean article #41095, right? It features a mps pressure sensor which read the fill level of the reservoir and also the water temperature. You can use it with USB and/or aquabus. If used by aquabus you also have to do an initial configuration via USB at first.

In your drawing is one mistake: you can not control the RGB LED with a slave device. There also some logical mistake but it will work. For example you connected the sensor values from the flow meter to the slave device but their sensor values will not be processed there. The main aquaero will use these values via aquabus.

kind regards
Sven Hanisch

Leaving work now..and have to rethink this whole process and come up with new drawing. Maybe buy another XT and return LT...and just run each XT for each loop separately. and forget master slave combination.
Really dont want to get PowerAdjust 2 USB thing...fugly.


----------



## Electrocutor

What was your intent with the second RGB that makes it so important?


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> What was your intent with the second RGB that makes it so important?


The whole reason I got the second unit is I thought I could output the RGB light to display different levels of heat.
So if Loop 1 was going with warm water it would output on RBG as red...and not only 1 bulb, it would get connected to amp, with 2-3 lightining up in a white aycrylic front plate. Loop 2 needed another AQ5 so I got LT.
Hope that idea is not flawed!!! lol


----------



## Electrocutor

Just don't slave the LT and make sure your temps go to the right AQ or use more than one temp sensor if you need one temp at both AQs.


----------



## Seanimus

Water temp to aq5 cannot tell aqsuite to tell aq pump to change speed.? Since aq pump via USB?
OR just ensure comm is connected from AQPump to AQ5 in addition to USB...


----------



## Electrocutor

Do you have a flow diagram detailing these two water loops, including all the sensors and what not?


----------



## Seanimus

Working on it ..like an hour or so.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Working on it ..like an hour or so.


Okay, do you also know how you want to control pumps, fans, alarms, etc? For instance, the AQ5 fan speed is based on the AQ5 sink temp; the rad fans are based on the air/water delta, etc.


----------



## Seanimus

hmm...didn't take long to change in visio:
Main things i would like to have are:
1) AQ should adjust fans when temp reaches a pre-set point that i can configure
2) AQ should output via RGB to front face plate Red, Green or blue for range of temps that i can configure
3) AQ should increase Pump speed on flow rate and or temp reading
4) All USB connected devices should get their firmware if any.
5) Readout on AQ should contain loop information eg: in/out temp, flow etc. for both loops

From what I gathered so far I have no choice but to return my AQ LT (and Pro)
and get 2xXT or 2xPro.
and below would be layout for those needs...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7984134789/


----------



## Seanimus

Come to think of it, I dont even need the G1/4 Temp if I place the Flow meter at the point leaving radiators (since it can measure temperature as well) which would be coolest point (OUT), and the AQD5 Pump or Adapator can measure the warmest point (IN). Damn these gadgets from AQ are awesome and yet cumbersome to figure out without proper documentation.


----------



## Electrocutor

Yeah, if you want two separate loops, an RGB LED for each loop, and a display read-out for each loop, then you have no choice but have two XTs or Pros.


----------



## Seanimus

update from aquacomputer support for points above:
#1 - no problem

#2 - no problem

#3 - can not be done since you can not use a flow rate as data source on the aquaero

#4 - no problem but when you have several devices from the same type we normally recommend to connect only one of them when doing a firmware update

#5 - no problem

With some of your lines I am not sure if you maybe got that wrong. For example the temperature of the D5 mps. You connect both temperatures with a line. Of course you can not use some kind of wire here to connect these ports. The temperature values are exchanged via aquabus

New layout without temperature wires being connected:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7986098788/


----------



## Electrocutor

Ahh, so the temp on the pump and adapter is just for convenience and is an input instead of output. You would still have to purchase the actual temp sensor to attach to it.


----------



## Seanimus

I have to delete that from diagrom. The temperature is sent to AQ5 via aquabus
Edit: Diagram uploaded in earlier post...


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> I have to delete that from diagrom. The temperature is sent to AQ5 via aquabus
> Edit: Diagram uploaded in earlier post...


Are you sure there is even a temp? I think you have to attach a temp sensor to the temp sensor input and _then_ it will send that temp over aquabus.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> Are you sure there is even a temp? I think you have to attach a temp sensor to the temp sensor input and _then_ it will send that temp over aquabus.


Earlier post from AQ Support:
4.) I guess you mean article #41095, right? It features a mps pressure sensor which read the fill level of the reservoir and also the water temperature. You can use it with USB and/or aquabus. If used by aquabus you also have to do an initial configuration via USB at first.

Based on above, i dont need to connect the temperature in that case with the new D5 Pump Adaptor with USB + Fill Level Sensor.
I took this further and assumed that I dont need to connect the temperature with new AQ5 Flow Meter with USB as well.
I don't have the new D5 Pump Adaptor as yet, otherwise I would post a picture.


----------



## Seanimus

3M the motherboard shiny back output ports. Took center Serial Number sticker out and placed behind CL tray.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7993619841/

Did this layout in Excel and stuck it on wall near crimping area.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7993681133/

Organized myself...lol
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7993626752/

Crimped the wires..voltage wires are generally crmiped with gold plated ones
16AWG wires....feels solid..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7993616025/

42 " (105cms) long. Will serve the CL case layout well, especially the bend I have going behind to go straight into motherboard.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7993613259/

Have to figure out sleeving...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7993614617/
thinking all white
Pin 13-Grey, 14 Color-x(maroon), Pin 23 Grey, Pin 24 Color-X
Pin 1-Grey, 2 Color-x(maroon), Pin 11 Grey, Pin 12 Color-X

Poor orange...I don't know if I should use it.
Thoughts welcome....not sleeving until another 2 hours anyways.

Reason I am doing motherboard wiring...because I am so stuckkkkk.... Aquacomputer (new layout) and Aquatuning is like on vacation since Wednesday...can't return as LT , Kryos, G1/4 as yet.


----------



## cpachris

Based on the fans and the PSU....seems like the orange would go better than the maroon. Do you really need the maroon to match something else going in there?


----------



## Seanimus

The motherboard...There is only one fan visible in the middle chamber. Which will be exhaust.


----------



## Seanimus

here are some options:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7993957301/http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7993955633/http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7993960340/http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7993952887/http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7993957680/http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7993956270/http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7993954588/


----------



## Seanimus

Starts with white and ends with white, with all 3 colors in there..
family choice...








http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7994030089/
As you can tell I am bored..


----------



## Electrocutor

Maybe try WWWWWROOORWW?


----------



## Seanimus

Will try that an post shortly. By the way, have a chance with NewEgg to return 120 mm cougar fans for PWM....doesn't help the radiator, but was thinking at least the case/hdd fans can go PWM to AQ5 reducing load there..any thoughts?
Also, the 120 MM fan next to back of motherboard, what if I just connect that to PWM Chassis Socket of the motherboard...beats running 4 feet of wiring and desoldering behind sticker..?
And set that single fan for EVGA control..kind of tilting the build here...but a thought.


----------



## Seanimus

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7994170258/
only 11 there...heh


----------



## Electrocutor

If you wanted it hot-rod-like, you could do WWWWWWROOYRW.


----------



## MHz407

Scribed , as I'm waiting to see what fans and pump pressure you settle on with this rad since I'm building a similar setup


----------



## Seanimus

Getting too bright now..toning it down a bit in this shot. Its no longer transient for the build..remember the mobo is also toned down with 3M.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7994275752/

Maybe a single orange as WWGRRORRGWWW. will try that next.


----------



## Electrocutor

I think it looks better offset instead of centered, don't you? If you want to tone it down, maybe WWWWWWGRROGW?


----------



## Seanimus

Ok. Electrocutor see question in post 121


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Ok. Electrocutor see question in post 121


You mean about using PWM fans for non-rads? I've personally not bought any PWM 120 Cougars so I wouldn't know how they compare, but as for the wiring to motherboard, I see no problem since they really are just for extra air flow and don't need any kind of special water temp-sensor reaction. I'm not sure if the Aquaero can or ever will be able to read HDD temps to control PWM speed.


----------



## Seanimus

Yea..PWM just for reducing load on AQ5's (2 of them now/whenever aquatuning wakes up).
Think i need one more red below the orange to tone orange down further...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7994463860/


----------



## Electrocutor

seems too much white maybe too; WWWWGRRRORGW?


----------



## cpachris

I think 4 colors is a tad much.

Does the orange sleeve not match the other orange stuff? I was diggin' all the orange. You seem to be minimizing it in the sleeving options.


----------



## cpachris

I kind of like post #122....but I'd swap in black for the color-x, unless there is some other maroon going into the build.


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I think 4 colors is a tad much.
> Does the orange sleeve not match the other orange stuff? I was diggin' all the orange. You seem to be minimizing it in the sleeving options.


I thought he wanted to go for the orange hot-rod look too, but guess not.


----------



## Seanimus

That orange just doesn't seem to blend...Alright going to give this a rest, and give some combinations a try tomorrow...with fresh eyes....


----------



## Seanimus

Middle compartment of CL is all maroon/black/grey/white in terms of components. There is a single lonely orange cougar fan.
Ignore cables in this picture and think of cougar orange fan in bottom right on this picture as exhaust
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7967230006/


----------



## Seanimus

Actually scratch that Orange fan in middle compartment. Its going to be black Cougar PWM fan as Exhaust. Its got a small amount of orange in the rubber padding.


----------



## prathik7

then add an orange sleeving to one of the atx wires..i like post#129...

and its i think better to connect the rear exhaust fan to onboard pwm..it will help to tidy up the build..

also about ur query #3 regarding pump control with temp...i believe u can let aq5xt to increase the pump flow based on another temp sensor connected independently to the aq5xt..like the outlet sensor from cpu block??

also in the flow diagram in post#110 have u connected the flow meter,d5 pump,level sensor independently to the mb usb?? if so y cant u connect everything to the aq5xt then a single usb from aq5 to the mb??..


----------



## Seanimus

Comments from AQ Support..

I have purchased 3 x 3 port USB hubs to connect various equipment including all AQ products to them.
Someone suggested that I only connect the AQ5-Pro-USB from each loop to the USB hub-- and not the Pump-Adaptor & Flow Meter to USB hub. Because they are saying any firmware update to downstream AQ products from AQ5 will go through Aquabus. Not sure on this&#8230; I have to connect the Pump itself via USB ; so talking only about Pump-Adaptor and Flow Meter.
_no idea what you have read there but none of these devices can be flashed via aquabus. A firmware update is always done via USB. Each device can be identified by its serial number so normally it should be no problem to use all devices at the same time and to flash only a specific one._

The pump will have static power straight from PSU and I will set the speed through Aquasuite "Once". Just adjust fan speed depending on water temperature.
_Yes, you set everything once and the pump keeps it. as default value these pumps work with 100%. When you start them they run at the lowest mode for around two seconds and then will speed up to 100%.

you would only adjust the speed of the fans control the overall temperature. Changing the speed of the pumps to adjust the flow rate has almost no impact on the cooling performance when they already run at a normal speed.
_

I do not need 2x G1/4 modules (Art.Nr.: 71160) that I bought separately. As the D5 Pump Adaptor( Art.Nr.: 52225) can read temp and send that information via aquabus
_Yes, the pumps has an integrated temperature sensor which you can read out via aquabus._

I do not need another 2x G1/4 modules as the AQ Flow Meter (Art.Nr.: 71215) also can read temperature and send that information via aquabus
_Yes, it also has an internal temperature sensor._

Each fan is max 0.3A, and I will have maximum of 8 fans per AQ5. But only 3x on each channel (Fan1, Fan2 & Fan3). In the diagram below only radiator fans are shown and not case fans. Is the load OK for AQ5 to control and change via the temperatures i.e. Fans go faster if water temperature is warmer?
_Should be no problem if the passive heatsink has some space to breath or there is some slight air flow in this area._

Aquabus Connections:
_> you have to connect everything to the aquabus high speed port. None of the used devices uses the low speed aquabus. So you will need some of these y-adapters:
> And just to be sure: the mps controller in the aqualis will not be connected to the mps controller in the pump. Of course you can also use a y-adapter there but there are not two aquabus ports available like on a poweradjust controller where you can connect everything in series._

Posting new layout here:
Loop 2 is identical to loop 1 shown below. 9/28 is shipping date for new AQ5.








http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7997706734/


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prathik7*
> 
> then add an orange sleeving to one of the atx wires..i like post#129...
> and its i think better to connect the rear exhaust fan to onboard pwm..it will help to tidy up the build..
> also about ur query #3 regarding pump control with temp...i believe u can let aq5xt to increase the pump flow based on another temp sensor connected independently to the aq5xt..like the outlet sensor from cpu block??
> also in the flow diagram in post#110 have u connected the flow meter,d5 pump,level sensor independently to the mb usb?? if so y cant u connect everything to the aq5xt then a single usb from aq5 to the mb??..


Thanks Prathik7
Looking at options for sleeving...have new color ordered through MDPC...for other thoughts to blend with tubing/sleeve for tubing. will post when I figure that out.. to see what can be done here..

yes on exhaust fan...Thanks for confirming thoughts.

dynamic pump speed control not necessary per aq. Just do it once thru aquasuite and leave it.

firmware upgrade only possible through direct usb.

On a separate note:
PerformancePCS has my AQ5-Pro...need to go local instead of international in these orders (now that AQ available here). Plus Hank at PPCS is helpful; took back my Red-Monsoon fittings without blinking when I said it wasn't being used.

Shipping LT /Kryos/G1/4 back to Aquatuning.US is going to cost me $180 in shipping for UPS for $200 worth of parts, with no gaurantee that it will pass customs. Cheapest option is $120 via USPS.

Thinking of painting all white Fittings with a color dependant on tube sleeving.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> dynamic pump speed control not necessary per aq. Just do it once thru aquasuite and leave it.
> firmware upgrade only possible through direct usb.


Yes...not necessary...but nice if you want to set a profile that you can turn on that turns all fans and pumps down to minimum. Or maximum. You can't do one profile that changes everything unless its connected to the AQ5 via aquabus.

And for firmware updates....you are talking maybe once a year. Tops. Not all of the software updates have new firmware. Its pretty easy to plug a USB cable in once a year to update the firmware.


----------



## Electrocutor

To clarify an earlier statement. You cannot use a flow meter as a source to control fans or pumps with a controller, but you can set an alarm using the flow meter that loads a profile including a higher speed fan or pump. It's an annoying way to do it, but possible.


----------



## prathik7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Yes...not necessary...but nice if you want to set a profile that you can turn on that turns all fans and pumps down to minimum. Or maximum. You can't do one profile that changes everything unless its connected to the AQ5 via aquabus.
> And for firmware updates....you are talking maybe once a year. Tops. Not all of the software updates have new firmware. Its pretty easy to plug a USB cable in once a year to update the firmware.


ya i second that...the new firmware update is pretty stable..
of course if for some bad luck an update does come soon u will have to connect them individually....i mean when u r buying to aq5 xt might as well use it to the max...


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks for comments. Yea I dont know if I will connect D5 pumps power to PA2's to A5 as yet. But will keep that in mind.

All AQ componenets are connected with Aquabus and USB in layout. I already have the NZXT USB Hubs, so might as well just connect them.
Just bought second AQ5 Pro from PPCS. D5 Pump Adaptor still says shipping 9/21 from Aquatuning. Hopefully it ships.
New order from MDPC coming in early next week.
CaseLabs Vertical Stand and Fan Mount, to blow air into 2xAQ5 Pro from inside the case.
Replacing all 120MM Cougar fans with PWM. 2xBlack and 2xOrange.

Really not sure what I will do this weekend..probably wiring for CPU Power and GPU and cut out holes for the drain in bottom of case below the AMS420 right below the side "Out Port"


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> To clarify an earlier statement. You cannot use a flow meter as a source to control fans or pumps with a controller, but you can set an alarm using the flow meter that loads a profile including a higher speed fan or pump. It's an annoying way to do it, but possible.


Hey Electrocutor...please do tell me how you connect the alarm part functioning in any form. Currently in layout the alarm is not connected


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Hey Electrocutor...please do tell me how you connect the alarm part functioning in any form. Currently in layout the alarm is not connected


You're not able to create any alarms?


----------



## Seanimus

From BMW in mail few days back for my new BMW:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8007923125/

No idea what it was even when I opened it...much heavier than the original key:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8007922313/

120MM Case Fans x6 arrived (not going to use 6, bought some spare :
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8007920287/

Case Labs Veritcal stand with standard 120MM fan connector. Note that standard is the perpendicular to CL Case Window. The other one which is 90 degree is really parallel to CL Case Window.
Also got short 5.25 bay mounts for 2x AQ5 Pro:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8007915455/

Another black Cougar fan for exhaust at back. I believe people agreed that connecting this to Mobo PWM Chassis Fan 1 was fine.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8007918538/

Got 3xNZXT USB hubs like these:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8007919156/

Few posts back I mentioned that my AQ Kryos had these stains...And AQ Support suggested some steps to get it fixed. I didn't have to fix it since it would never been seen but it was annoying the hell out of me.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7924951124/

Picked this up today to get the metric hex bits:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8007923676/

Opened the plate up:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8007918671/

Love the copper from AQ. Anyways dipped the whole thing in Citric Acid (Lemon Juice). This was suggested by someone in a private forum. And used a cotton swab to rub it off...Took a while like 30 mins.

I am cheating with light on this shot...but the marks are barely visible now:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8007917883/

Assembled:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8007921502/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8007916075/

By the way, the BMW part was an USB key.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8007925776/

Edit: Its just a USB key...thought it was more; that would activate Google on Car dashboard...which I currently have to pay for to subscribe.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> You're not able to create any alarms?


Nothing is connected. Still stuck with "D5 Pump Adaptor". Says it will ship tomorrow. But Aquatuning says that release dates from AQ are not gauranteed.


----------



## gungravevn

Awesome build love the color scheme


----------



## Boweezie

Ah looks great! I love the attention to detail right down to the sleeving. It's going to look amazing once everything is done







Also, I'm about to order a '13 328i M Sport


----------



## Seanimus

New AQ5 Pro came today from PPCS
Got a spare black plate with this as well to paint.
And decided to do the old one as well...as I beat it up too much trying to get into 5.25 bay the first time (few weeks back)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8010593893/

Used orbit sander for 60 grit, and then by hand 120 and some pretty high number (too lazy to check which one in garage). This shot with 60grit
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8010598332/
Priming
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8010592189/
Had flaws, you have to go originai size on the left one to really see it. but from last time, i figured that picture shows you more flaws than the eye sometimes:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8010591305/
bit of light high grit sanding and did second coat
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8010597579/
That Krylon Primer color looks nice...should I go satin white on this...nah will go orange after few hours of drying....And this time I will wait 1 day, before I screw it back on AQ5 Pro.


----------



## Seanimus

just to keep same reference with background...left one showing faults now in photos when its not white...but I really don't care..
tomorrow will put Krylon Matte Finish on them..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8010752653/


----------



## Seanimus

This weekend was not productive...since i found out AQ D5 Pump Adaptor delayed again..since August 14th...this is third time shipping date has changed.

But some minor progress...
- Found out 16 AWG will not go through SATA power connectors. Would have to push hard and didn't want to do that. Ordered 18 AWG.
Waste of all that 16 AWG:
- Ordered another 3TB to fill that slot...no point cabling and sleeving only to redo it later on. The SSD's are 2x ; planning to be mirrored.
- The Sata power connectors will go 6x daisy chain as pass throughs. to ONE 6 pin peripheral power connector on EVGA PSU
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8018280926/

Think this is the layout for SATA power...had to get orange as well.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8018278196/

Not easy sleeving SATA data cable first time. Need practice. This was second try.
The SSD will the Color-X (maroon) ...Rest White
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8018313675/

Was at home depot, looking for scroll saw...and then found this attachment to Dremmel..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8018281994/
Redid the White Acrylic smoothing of edges. Had to do it...son was making fun of it..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8018278659/

This paint on AQ5 takes a lot of beating on SHTH10 case. I am getting so tired of it...Thinking of just getting it powder coated. AQ5 installing in 5.25 bays is a pain, especially if you don't have one side not accessible as in STH10. Was thinkng of going to uppper compartment for few hours but decided that it would not be a good idea. As the Hard Disk Cage and Blu Ray Drive in middle compartment would look excessive.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8018279010/

This will take a few days to figure out how to splice all the 120 mm case fans. Cut this one so far for the Hard Disk cage:http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8018275795/

Next thing is I have to get the front Case layout of 5.25 devices/fans laid out to do further sleeving/cabling


----------



## Electrocutor

I'd mirror or raid 5 your data drives (raid 6 if you'll have 4 instead of 3), but raid0 your ssds; this would give you the best performance and keep your data safe.


----------



## barkinos98

an awesome build log featuring a BMW? hell yeah im subbed


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> I'd mirror or raid 5 your data drives (raid 6 if you'll have 4 instead of 3), but raid0 your ssds; this would give you the best performance and keep your data safe.


I appreciate the thought, never thought of Raid 6. Ahh Raid for 14 years and really hate Raid.
Lost data once to move the motherboard once, and connected the drives in a different order of SATA ports.
Next time lost data as my striped mirror broke (software error), and didn't realize I had double the drives for few days.
Thinking of just going Cloud Backup.
Btw Electocutuor, there are only 6 SATA ports on mobo , how do I go more for Raid 6.
5 Drives + Blu Ray occupies all 6 ports.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> an awesome build log featuring a BMW? hell yeah im subbed


Thanks.


----------



## Seanimus

2 questions:

This USB hub has a 9 pin USB Connector to the mobo.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8018280429/
1) Where do I get a 9 pin (10 pin - 1 unused) connector housing?
2) the Crimp Pins are same as the onse for Fans?

The AQ5 takes 5 pin connector for USB...Looks like same coloring for wires - only difference is that its just one of the 2 rows of the 10 pin.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8018283854/
This question is more curiosity. Not that I am going to connect it.
3) Can I take 2 of these 5 pin connectors from each of the AQ5 Pro and connect to a single 10 pin mobo/hub header ?


----------



## Aximous

The two rows on the 9 pin connector gives you 2 USB ports, 1 for each row, the 5th pin on the second row is supposed to be for over current protection.

To actually answer you questions:
1) IIRC you can get them at PPCS
2) I doubt it, although I'm not sure, I'm curious about that too
3) Yes you can, just be sure to connect them the right way, a little help with that here, see the first entry in header connection guide: http://www.frontx.com/cpx101_2.html


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> 1) Where do I get a 9 pin (10 pin - 1 unused) connector housing?
> 2) the Crimp Pins are same as the onse for Fans?
> 3) Can I take 2 of these 5 pin connectors from each of the AQ5 Pro and connect to a single 10 pin mobo/hub header ?


1) http://www.pololu.com/catalog/category/70
2) http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1930
3) yep


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 1) http://www.pololu.com/catalog/category/70
> 2) http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1930
> 3) yep


Thanks.... You Sir have a wealth of information at your disposal.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks.... You Sir have a wealth of information at your disposal.


Your welcome. I'm planning on doing something similar, so I had already looked around for them. Didn't find them at a lot of places. While you're ordering, you might get some of the 2pin connectors, in case you want to make your own power switch and HDD/LED lights cables. The ones that came with my TH10 are just a little short for how I want to route them....so I'l be making my own.

Hadn't thought about terminating the two aquaero USB's into one 10 pin connector though. That's actually a pretty neat idea, and I may have to copy you.







Are you thinking about sleeving both cables into the same sleeve also?


----------



## solidshark91493

This build is epic, I read all 16 pages..
I love the aquaero stuff and planned on getting it for mine when I do it. But.. The more I look the more complicated it all seems to be :s
As for the rest, very nice (And expensive D
Like the sleeving, thought about doing it myself, But it seems like it takes a long time and you have to be real careful to not mess up what wires go where.








Im gonna keep my eye on this thread. I like where this is going.

Lastly, (Im jelly, of your BMW.. >.>)


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> This build is epic, I read all 16 pages..


Thanks.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aximous*
> 
> The two rows on the 9 pin connector gives you 2 USB ports, 1 for each row, the 5th pin on the second row is supposed to be for over current protection.
> 
> header connection guide: http://www.frontx.com/cpx101_2.html


Thanks for the guide.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Hadn't thought about terminating the two aquaero USB's into one 10 pin connector though. That's actually a pretty neat idea, and I may have to copy you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you thinking about sleeving both cables into the same sleeve also?


sleeving two cables separately into one...thats the plan.

By the way, I now have to add 1 of the 3 USB hubs to the "pile" of parts bought - but not going to be used. Since we found out that we can use double the AQ components on each of those USB headers.
This "pile" is getting bigger now... lol. At the end of the build going to take a picture of that..


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> By the way, I now have to add 1 of the 3 USB hubs to the "pile" of parts bought - but not going to be used. Since we found out that we can use double the AQ components on each of those USB headers.
> This "pile" is getting bigger now... lol. At the end of the build going to take a picture of that..


Ha! I'll do the same. I could almost do another mini-build with my leftovers and extras.


----------



## Seanimus

So Bad news is that the AQ D5 Pump Adaptor is delayed again...the good news is that it will be ready for shipping soon as the parts to assemble are done...

Meanwhile those wanting to reuse EVGA PCI Express power connectors...this is what it looks like...6pin+2 pin join together. Smart idea from EVGA of pairing them only one way.:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8025392063/

And a single 8 pin connection out of PSU goes to the 2 power connectors of your GPU Card (if thats the your configuration) with Y Connector:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8025391844/

From PSU side:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8025393119/

Posting connector layouts i have so far:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8025431755/

Since I am building my own cable..(one so far with power as gold plated connectors) i am assuming I can use VGA0 and VGA1 from PSU to go the power connectors of the 690 ..as two separate cables without Y connectors? or do the grounds need to Y'ed??
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8025393975/


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Please check your PMs Seanimus, if you did not get a PM, then please PM me









Free bump for awesome project!


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> Please check your PMs Seanimus, if you did not get a PM, then please PM me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Free bump for awesome project!


Oh yea. I read it at work, and then came home and forgot about PM.
This build will not finish in September. My Pump Adaptor is now shipping October 5th ..sigh.
Sending you PM now.


----------



## Seanimus

Done crimping/cutting all power cables to motherboard, CPU and GPU. Smallest length is like 38 inches lol.Longest is 44 inches, I think...Its a lot of cabling and crimps.
200 feet of cabling for just mobo/gpu/cpu and 110 crimps?

40 inch average, 8pinx4 and 24pinx1 ,
40*8*4=1280 inches=106 feet
40*24= 960 inches=80 feet.
Yep..and its only half done..

One of the GPU cables is longer than the other by like 2 inches to account for the wider bend going in top of card to second slot.
With the 24pin connector, also crimped the optional white wire...to have consistent sleeving .

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8031572188/
Fingers are [email protected]#$#$%%

Just did 2xCPU power cables, as opposed to leaving open an empty slot.

From PSU Side:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8025393119/
4 SATA Power Outs
2 CPU Power Outs
7 VGA Outs

EVGA 690:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7934117064/

SATA power cable from EVGA
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8031571382/

1) Assuming for EVGA 690 with 2 GPU's I can use 2 separate Cables as VGA0 and VGA1 from PSU to 690?? or does it have to be 1 cable from PSU split into 2x 8 pin?
2) Default power connector from EVGA for SATA psu out has 3 SATA connectors...Can I put a load of 6 SATA Connectors on a single cable?

Have to do the SATA power cable next, thoughts on question above appreciated..


----------



## cpachris

1) you'll need two separate cables from the PSU. you can't split one eight pin into two.
2) different drives have different power requirements...but you should be fine. I have 8 SSD's on one cable. use 18 awg...and there shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> 1) you'll need two separate cables from the PSU. you can't split one eight pin into two.
> 2) different drives have different power requirements...but you should be fine. I have 8 SSD's on one cable. use 18 awg...and there shouldn't be a problem.


Thanks, on that note...can i get a 16 AWG into one of the SATA pass through connectors. Thought it was tough with 16 AWG...but had same problem with 18 AWG, so i must be doing something wrong.

Right white cable is 16AWG, left yellow is 18AWG
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8031657682/

Oh shoot, just realized i dont have enough sleeving for 200 feet (maybe 300feet including fan, sata), and I definitely don't have enough pre-cut shrink (maybe like 200x).

Have to set alarm for 5:30AM, to get next time slot for MDPC>


----------



## cpachris

I used 18 awg and it was a tight fit. I don't think I could have gotten 16 awg down there. I used a space PCI blank bracket with a blunt edge to push them down....and it took some work. Needs to go all the way down to the bottom of that opening.


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks...where did you get the white SATA Pass throughs and end ?


----------



## cpachris

FCPU


----------



## cpachris

But you could get these:


----------



## Traches

Subbed for the hardware pron. Awesome work OP


----------



## Seanimus

Had to post this..; nzxt sleeving ...not good
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8034376651/
reason for bump is they put a wire tie inside
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8034375614/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8034375183/

Ok enough fun
where do i get these mini "fan" like connectors:
(1) 3pin (in the background .. my son experiment with new Krylon Fusion paint for plastics)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8034378910/
(2) and 2pin:
From first picture at start of this post

With crimp connectors as well..


----------



## Eusbwoa18

Wow, just wow. Can't think of anything else appropriate to describe the level of work here but wow.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> Wow, just wow. Can't think of anything else appropriate to describe the level of work here but wow.


Thanks


----------



## Seanimus

CCFL Unit:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8037483510/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8037479367/

My son's gameboy mod came out better...I messed mine then in a hurry i scraped it out too hard...(not painting again with black label).
Many hours later and after sanding multiple times:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8037495519/

Got Frozen CPU parts. This PWM female fan connector
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8037478481/

Uses these pins.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8037477619/
I guess normally crimping logic on this, back set of wings for insulation and front set for wire.

These are for the case fans, not a lot, I think 4 in total --2 in, 1 out., 1 blowing air onto AQ5.


----------



## Seanimus

Gave up on male crimps for fans..lost Saturday on that ****. At least the male crimps from Frozen CPU; could also be that the wire from Cougar fans is like 26 AWG --really thin not much base to push it in (lol). Soldering would have been so much easier. PWM fan for hardisk will just get connected straight to AQ5 Pro 1

Had to connect the fan, to get the hardisk wiring going:


Turned out well. this part is without sleeving and only heat shrink.:

This bend is too much..not considering fixing it, as it will be barely seen. Realized later on, that even the wonderful heat shrink between hd's can be barely seen.


----------



## Tabinhu

Read all 19 pages. Outstanding work

Sent from my GT-I9070 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tabinhu*
> 
> Read all 19 pages. Outstanding work
> Sent from my GT-I9070 using Tapatalk 2


Thanks.

Since this is my first time with sleeving/shrinking - I have to say that this stuff is not for the faint-hearted when it comes to Female connectors.

Some issues and corrections along the way:
- Got all 5 of sata PSU connector perfectly, without using candle/lighter on sleeve at end. At the end (when I tried inserting 5th) the sleeve started popping out shrink. Also last 2 pins didn't go through all the way -- too much friction with the earlier pins.
- Redid them--but this time applied candle/lighter to sleeve (slightly -not so heavy as I did on the SATA drive connector side (embarassing)
and this time last 2 pins just wouldn't go in; again the shrink bumping against other.
- Part of the problem is the crimp itself (these gold plated ones bought locally are not good). They bend so easily while trying to push last 2 crimps in and messes up rest. So tested one crimp with 16 AWG wire so its sturdy with no sleeve and shrink...This time made sure I had the wings that clamp down inside out ...(which I did not do in first 2 tries).. And it was perfect.

- This shot below, shows the heat shrink taller on the sleeve side by few mm, than I was doing earlier. And it went in smoothly...It was snugged in nicely. Also tested with PSU side and the pin did not pop.
Before I redo rest of pins which takes a lot of time for me...since this is my first time and I want it to be perfect on PSU side (and motherboard side) ...Is the 6 pin connector have enough spacing for rest of 4 wires to go in. Looks tight in shot below, as you can see the shrink occupying some of the space of adjacent pin ( luckily this wire is 6 inches longer than I what I need, as it keeps getting shorter each day by an inch...lol):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8045810958/
by the way above red thing is the wire stripper...not the crimp tool; which is from mdpc.


----------



## Seanimus

Now that sleeving is taking more time than I originally anticipated, Aquatuning / AQ having AQ D5 Pump Adaptor shipping on October 5th is not that bad. If I knew this needed a lot of practice, I would have not taken it that easy a month ago.
Soo here are the results. only differenece here is that the heatshrink is not going all way to the second set of arms on the Crimp pin. It stops at first set of arms that hold the insulated wire down. Second thing is that towards the end when less room to play on 4th and 5th wire, I used the MDPC tool (for removing ATX pins) to push the shrink into the PSU connector, before applying any pressure to push the sleeved wire with shrink in...till it snapped into place. :

For first PSU connector the result. Second one will be faster and cleaner...Takes practice:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8049300676/

From Sata side:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8049300000/

If I was routing cables through top. Will be nice fit into that P clip when 2 of them go through. It has a MDPC M3 bolt/washer with Nylon M3 wing nut at the back :
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8049299166/

With SATA 3 data connector:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8049292287/


----------



## cpachris

Lookin good.

You've got some color bleed through on the white sleeving. Consider using white wire underneath the white sleeving....or using white electrical tape to cover it.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Lookin good.
> You've got some color bleed through on the white sleeving. Consider using white wire underneath the white sleeving....or using white electrical tape to cover it.


Not really...have lots of white wire lying around; All wires are original connection per connection layout in previous posts. So yellow +12V is yellow and so on. I think like 9 colors in total in wires. Leaving them as original without masking. If I ever have to rewire; I could quickly trace it back.


----------



## Seanimus

I could go taping 90% as white in middle and leaving end points as original. That would work..Good idea!


----------



## Seanimus

How's this one:
http://www.amazon.com/3M-79901-Scotchlite-Reflective-Striping/dp/B0010AZU9U/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1349238018&sr=8-7&keywords=white+tape+1%2F4+inch
for inside..


----------



## barkinos98

i think the electrical tape will be better (the whites here are like snow)


----------



## Seanimus

Friday finally...rough week at work...picked up some 3M at home depot:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8058654068/

With white electrical tape inside:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8058654579/

Fixed the bend and shrink:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8058652976/

Seeing if i can hide the sleeving in earlier post (SATA0) with new sleeving (SATA1) on top of it:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8058653581/

Probably not and will redo that on Sunday.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8058677465/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8058677959/


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Friday finally...rough week at work...picked up some 3M at home depot:


Perfection in progress! Keep it up


----------



## cpachris

Looks much cleaner with the tape. I like the use of the cable clips. Are those the ones from MDPC?


----------



## mannyfc

wow looks great, more pics please....


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Looks much cleaner with the tape. I like the use of the cable clips. Are those the ones from MDPC?


The cable clips (P clip): I have like 3 bags of different sizes 1/4 inch, 1/2 and 3/4...(like 200 lying around).
Bought that in 2007 when I was doing my home theather room for the Interconnects.
Hmm...I should take a picture of that cabling. The 120 V 20 AMP wire there all using 12AWG wire; using hospital grade plugs (same as SuperNova), and all custom cut. The electrical wire is from California with a foil wrapping each wire to further reduce interference with sound.

The cable ties I found them in one of the EVGA boxes, and I am pretty sure its from the SuperNova PSU.

The cable clip uses a M3x10mm from MDPC along with MDPC washer. Behind it is a Nylon Wing Nut from Amazon. Will post closer shot.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mannyfc*
> 
> wow looks great, more pics please....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Perfection in progress! Keep it up


Thanks.


----------



## Seanimus

1) Not looking forward to putting white tape on 50+ wires. Will take loss than messing with that much tape.
Thinking that with 16AWG+sleeve+shrink will get progressively harder in the 24 pin connector..no? Have to order white wire anyways..so just go with 18 AWG and avoid 16AWG?

2) Which QDC should I get..The ones I have seen are so big from koolance.

3) Any recommendation on shut - off valves. Something close to white.


----------



## Seanimus

Thought I would get some progress on other fronts while I wait for white wire 16AWG.
Plus sleeving got irritating..

Second hole from right on MNPCTech ruler for 22mm vandal
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8064941325/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8064939138/

Reverse side..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8064937670/

Got distracted with son's other project of replacing his GameBoy catridge batteries..Went around town looking for stuff..
Saw some videos from Lutro0. Needed a break from sleeving anyways..

Came back did this first, to get ready for sleeving during week:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8064928068/
It sucked, not wide enough, and wobbled.

Got some wood from homedepot, while shopping for son's batteries for Gameboy Catridges.
Used Circular saw and adjust depth to get grooves going for straightening, measuring wires. My finger tips are frigging burnt trying to straighten that **** out.
Messed up first groove (left most this shot). Used T ruler for sheetrock as guide to get rest going:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8064936041/

Fired up Compressor:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8064934302/

Cut some support for the 2 pieces:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8064932015/

Nail gun/Compressor, can some wood glue there to hold thing in place when i flip it over:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8064931394/

Changed nail gun, with this air "hose" to blast air and clean the grooves (plus garage, before wife gets back):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8064930232/

Came out nice:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8064928695/

Placed it inside the house...In shot below , you can see red 16 AWG wire through the groove, and 18 AWG yellow wire..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8064925878/

My son's cartridges with batteries replaced and this security bit from eBay to remove the screw:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8064924121/

The new workbench has grooves and markings at 1 inch.

This was Ok. To dull looking. Initially was thinking of placing in between two AQ5. Ordered an MNPCTech 5.25 bay 5x22m Vandal device.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8064923636/

My original thought was going on reservoirs this way. Few inches higher so pump is half way to bottom compartment.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8064926894/

But found out the adaptor (which is YET to be shipped), needs a wall behind the reservoir if vertical...Any options here?


----------



## prathik7

But found out the adapter (which is YET to be shipped), needs a wall behind the reservoir if vertical...Any options here?[/quote]

yes most adapters need a wall to be wanted...either use caselabs attachment plates of accessory mounts...or u will have to use fittings to literally suspend it in mid air...


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prathik7*
> 
> yes most adapters need a wall to be wanted...either use caselabs attachment plates of accessory mounts...or u will have to use fittings to literally suspend it in mid air...


Guess go other way then -- same line as mother board...have to figure that out when "adaptor" ships (hope its in October).

What about QDC...which ones are recommended...not too long...and shut off valves?


----------



## solidshark91493

Just as far as Ive seen / heard, Koolance makes great QDC's. Might look at those, Im not sure how long they are. I dont think they were very big.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> Just as far as Ive seen / heard, Koolance makes great QDC's. Might look at those, Im not sure how long they are. I dont think they were very big.


Thanks...saw a post like 6 months back on someone using plastic/delrin qdc; now i can't find it. So Koolance it is..


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> Just as far as Ive seen / heard, Koolance makes great QDC's. Might look at those, Im not sure how long they are. I dont think they were very big.


The Koolance QDC's are huge. About 4 inches long when you have the male/female together. But,...there are not a lot of other options to even consider, if you want a QDC.


----------



## Seanimus

Decided to do the 140 mm fans for radiator...furthest back that would never be seen.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8069573023/

The not so liked part; which will get pushed in under plastic part on fan:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8069572093/

Connected red and black, and cut off yellow there at shink:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8069566080/

Used colorless heat shrink to cover the solder joints:

used my new handy dandy workbench to cut the wires at 26, 27 and 28 iinch.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8069569987/

Layered the heat shrink per joint. while checking with multimeter that there is no overlap against fan solder under sticker.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8069564242/

Soldering turned out nice...Much faster soldering and cleaner than trying to do female fan connectors:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8069591797/

Not sure why i went last cabling with 18 AWG..but hey go with the flow:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8069561648/

Put the whole thing under black electrical tape, as I was going with Dark grey sleeving. Did not do the fan sleeving because it would never be seen.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8069565565/

Both ends with sleeving:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8069564691/

Not much strectching on sleeve required as 3x18AWG in that sleev+ electrical tape..

I did not need any glue here but wanted to try on the purple shade glue, which turns white after drying to see effect. And to see if anything bleeds through sleeving on to finger. Again something that would never been seen from front view:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8069563059/

So these fans done..first 3 . for innermost radiator.
Next have to do the sandwich fan between raidators. And this time with Copper Brown sleeving ; plus the fan sleeving will be totally removed.
And front most fans with front radiator will be Orange sleeving.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8069627548/


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> The Koolance QDC's are huge. About 4 inches long when you have the male/female together. But,...there are not a lot of other options to even consider, if you want a QDC.


Thanks for length information. I can live without that. Not that I am changing motherboard anytime soon....
Probably will have to flush the system just for a good cleaning before I change the motherboard.


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks for length information. I can live without that. Not that I am changing motherboard anytime soon....
> Probably will have to flush the system just for a good cleaning before I change the motherboard.


Yeah i suppose I could have looked into it slightly, the vids Ive seen with them on youtube swear to them though. No leaks, and if any thing comes out when disconnected, (If any) its a very small little bit at the tip of it.
They arent very big. But Im pretty sure they arent very cheap, but if you need to bust your system apart in a jiffy, then those are the way to go.

Edit * Love the sleeving by the way, I love modding things. so I like the sleeving detail. Im thinking about sleeving my whole system when I get it.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> Edit * Love the sleeving by the way, I love modding things. so I like the sleeving detail. Im thinking about sleeving my whole system when I get it.


Thanks. Not much to update. AQ D5 Pump 'Adaptor' still not shipping.

Everything went perfect last night..and then realized I picked wrong sleeving..Was supposed to go copper brown and went Color-X. Duh...side effects of working during weekdays.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8075753405/

Complete with Color-X
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8075743564/

Next one tonight is Orange:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8075751281/

So now, innermost is Dark Grey, middle is Color-X and outermost fans is Orange.

I don't think I can put another set of fans in between the two radiators (sandwich) in STH10 case as it requires like 10 inches with 2xAMS radiator and have only 9.5 inches. So its one set of fans in between two radiators.


----------



## Seanimus

Orange sleeving done for Last set of radiator fans. Tomorrow redoing sata with white connectors, orange heatshnrink and white+orange sleeving for top most compartment in STH10


----------



## Seanimus

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8081901409/


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*


Is that 16 gauge wire or 18? My girl friend thought you were making a Holloween theme build when she saw your fans and sleeving!


----------



## Dash8Q4

man this is awesome....hopefully one day i can build something like this!!


----------



## Sogi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*


That looks stunning, your attention to detail is making this such a beautiful build


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks Guys. Thats 16AWG.

Time to cut after putting everything in place.

8.5 inches

Placed in grooves to cut.
In background...the Lutro0 parts to get, scissor, nippers, knipex wire stripper ($90-but worth it)














Used heatgun too fast, and superglue did not hold the orange sleeve place (last one got too excited)..bah


From back of case to show wing nuts:


From front with Brainwasher and M3x10mm screw from MDPC:


----------



## Seanimus

Thought of another idea...just go wires from last Sata connector of blu-ray drive to 1st P-Clip, Then Single sleeve (Sata data sleeve) for all 5 wires to 3rd P Clip and then branch to 5 sleeved wires to PSU.
This time I'll go reverse starting from PSU and back into bluray/disk drives.
Meanwhile sanded down the MNPCTech 5 22mm bay for vandal switches:


And painted bright white with matte finish:


----------



## prathik7

phobya also makes qdc but dunno how good they are...if u r gonna use koolance get the vl4n series with extreme flow not high flow....also there are some low profile ones...even 90 degree ones...maybe u can try them...see in frozencpu..


----------



## Seanimus

Decided to do some acrylic stuff...since all the bonding takes a day, a good way to kill weekdays. All these shots are in the garage.
Got me this dremmel saw in the weekend:


Lots of acrylic dust flying off: Smooth cuts if you use a T with this dremmel saw. Better than using a jigsaw, and better than a circular saw due to small size of unit and small size of circular blade.


Perfect fit:


Preparing sandwich....0.25" White Acrylic on two sides, with 0.125" Transparent Acrylic:
First part:


With ccfl light in between , still need another 0.25" spacing, probably nylon spacers at bottom:


This is how smooth the cut is with dremel saw without router or finishing:


Sandwich without any polishing....This is the prepolished side, have to polish again because the liquid cement kind of seen:


The sides are pretty wide..As I want enough spacing to put bolts through in original holes....Probably not the best idea should have made it less wide.:


This is the effect with CCFL light in between a sandwich:


----------



## Seanimus

Not sure why I can't edit earlier post...But this is the effect on the side,

This is without polishing. Not that it would be really seen. But the cutouts which is yet to come, it will be seen nicely.


----------



## Seanimus

Ok day 2 of playing with acrylic and lighting:
Used jigsaw to make those pretty sharp bends for U. Metal blade set at 5 for turns:


Used different dremmel to file/smooth/sharpend edges; multiple top bits:


This is how smooth it comes out:

Here the finish is so fine, that white light from garage is not letting me take a good shot:


After 2 days of work, I don't like the output; and have to cut out the whole thing as underside; and then put another layer of 0.125" (not 0.25") and this time I will try with Transparent White Acrylic, instead of Transclucent White Acrylic:


On the bright side, I learned a lot of acrylic. sanding/polishing acrylic


----------



## Seanimus

Good news is that AQ D5 Pump Adaptor for Aqualis is now ready and has shipped from Germany. The last piece i needed since August 14th to get mobo/gpu on. So next week different types of updates as I will have to clean the radiator and so on.

Meanwhile I figured out the white acrylic issue. I need the entire lightbox to almost 1.5" high to get the light going properly:


That would be the height. The supporting underside has to be shortened significantly. So I have to order new acrylic...









Realized center push button was 16 mm...an error in ordering along with the fact, that the replacement switch for the default blue ring for STH10 power on/off switch was wrong finish (silver).


With MNPCTech front (above) and back (below). Empty holes filled with supplied plastic caps.


Cap + Orange + White + Red + Cap is the order of layout


----------



## YP5 Toronto

..so sick..it hurts


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks.
Who sells this product in the US:
Illumination-insert G1/4 incl. gasket

Need to insert RGB Leds into the base for Aqualis and realized I need a G 1/4 adapter/gasket.

Or if something else can work.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks.
> Who sells this product in the US:
> Illumination-insert G1/4 incl. gasket
> Need to insert RGB Leds into the base for Aqualis and realized I need a G 1/4 adapter/gasket.
> Or if something else can work.


FrozenCPU sells something similar.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> FrozenCPU sells something similar.


Closest thing was Alphacool Plexi G1/4" Lighting Module Holder with O-Ring . Hopefully it works.

Decided to finish the acrylic base while new top 0.125" arrives. Also figured I will go flush with back of case. Which means redoing hole cut outs for PSU power.


Drilled holes for jigsaw;


Man that dremmel saw blade needs to be replaced. Caused so much friction, the heat started to cause the acrylic to warp.


Still needs work:


Attached fans to radiator..all this to get the correct place to get a hole in the base of the STH10.


Planning to have final drain valve as Koolance Ball Valve . Going to be a bit bulky under the sth10. But I think I have room with the caster wheels on..no?

Putting the radiators in is a bit tricky on STH10. But I now I see I have room to add another set of fans for first radiator (right). And the I can use the copper brown sleeve which I forgot to use last time!!




Seeing how long of an extender i need to get before I can put a 90 and then the drain valve. The drain valve will be on either side of the case .


Flipped case over to take measurements again:


Good thing in STH10 you dont have to dismantle the whole thing and its just this plate:


Center holes for both radiator out ports at 4 1/8" fronm front and 1.5" from side


1" hole should be good:


This hole saw is only wood and pvc....Damn...have to stop and go to home depot:


Will also get replacement blade for dremmel saw max. So beat up so fast:


Will post again after I get the blades from homedepot. If anyone sees issues with the Koolance Ball Valve..or has another suggestion let me know.


----------



## Seanimus

Was in a rush and took my wife's key for my BMW; and realized my reverse camera has angles drawn out ....hah didn't even ...now have to set my profile for this:


Returned and left car outside. Since so many like BMW's here's a front shot. Damn neighbour already started putting halloween stuff up...


Home depot said the part I had would work on metal regardless of what it said on cover. As they make only one type..




Got few PM's on how to install Aqualis/open on to Adaptor..So step by step here. This is my second time, so I know what I did wrong first time.
Left Aqualis, center AQ D5 Adaptor (no case, but who cares), and right AQ D5 Pump: Front right are the yellow AQ pump installs...Can I use these on vertical installs??


After package is opened, just need pump metal brace and ring, 4 M3x12 mm screws ( i think), the manual MPS G1/4 . Leave rest in bag


The aqualis manual is in the reservoir. Duh. So take glass part with top and turn counter clockwise, while holding base:


Take top G1/4 off center tube and place on left hole off adaptor (if you want to reuse). Also attach the aqualis to top part of Adaptor now. You don't want to attach with glass on, otherwise your turns with Allen key will take a long time:


Insert the ring on pump and place while flat:


Tighten till the brace for pump goes all the down.


Place the ring in the Aqualis to top part of aqualis, and press down with the glass tube:


Turn the Aqualis clockwise till its tight. Place the manual MPS pressure release on top of Aqualis in the G1/4
Trying these non-vibration AQ bolts here :


Left is with rubber pads from Aqualis and right is with separate order:


That metal brace to attach to the case is fugly and big.

1) Anyone know if I can attach the pump/adaptor/aqualis directly to the case and by pass that metal bracket. If yes, will those yellow anti-vibration hold the weight.?
2) Which is better for my layout: Koolance Balve Valve or Phobya Valve . Looks like Phobya might be better with the turning that valve (lower profile). Koolance may need another cutout in the bottom of case to turn that "valve".
3) Is there a Male G1/4 to Female G1/4 Extender 10mm?


----------



## jokrik

Why not looking at bitspower valve?








Bitspower Valve
Been using it and it works well


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Why not looking at bitspower valve?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bitspower Valve
> Been using it and it works well


Ahh; didn't even see that one...Bitspower it is then...Thanks.

By the way I cannot place these big reservoirs side of side vertical to motherboard. Following layout (older picture) would be optimal, but its not possible, because a) the brackets will not fit in 7" and b) even if i could squeeze it in and mount on STH10 Vertical fan mount; there would be no room to get the connections for USB etc out.


Option 1:

Would have return from one of the components going over the glass of right side..

So Option 2:
Graphics card could go the right one here, and CPU to left one.


Both options means vertical stand for STH10 with fan would not be possible as below (old picture). even if i move it to left.


Placing a fan horizontally nd cutting it out 4.5" inch hole..not possible. Good I can return the $40 cut out hole-saw.


The reservoir clips at top of glass; right one in 3 pictures above is a bit lose as its not aligned; because below you can see yellow decoupling mounts a bit wider. I guess if I still want to use them I could put some rubber washers below the Black Clip...


----------



## nyk20z3

Lots of Porn from Germany i see.


----------



## Seanimus

Measuring to make holes to mount reservoir.
Drew outline of holder first:


Going to MDPC M3 bolts x10mm (left) instead of supplied bolts (right). The titanium drill bit there is perfect for M3. it screws in nice and tight, and dont even need a nut at the back.


Can't stress how important it is to keep measuring and making sure its right. Because if you screw this, not much options on fixing. So red dot on left hole is the adjusted one from the black one.


You can go wrong vertically for the bottom ones:


Make sure it approximately leveled. There is room to adjust with Res Holder clips.


Res holder screws for left and right are M4's I think.
The center one, the hole should be big enough for your smallest philips screw driver to go through.


One done, next one follows:




Incase anyone wants the measurements in cms. Shot with the 3 size drill bits used. Get the Dewalt Titatanium case ...if you are unsure if you have right sizes or not.


----------



## Systemlord

Seanimus, what are those things attached to your pumps?


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Seanimus, what are those things attached to your pumps?


Not sure which side you were refferring to, so just giving the whole unit parts:
In this picture,

Underside of the D5 Pump where the wire comes out is the USB/Aquabus etc control set.
Bottom of the pump is the Bracket which will get bolted on white panel below it..
The bracket comes with the Aqualis D5 pump adaptor (which I got last week- 2 month delay)
The D5 Pump Adaptor is the unit with word Aqualis written on it
To the right of the D5 Pump Adaptor is the Aquabus, USB
To the top of the D5 Pump Adaptor is the Aqualis Reservoir.
At the top of the Aqualis Reservoir is the Reservoir Holder (clip.


----------



## Seanimus

As previous few posts, all shots are in the garage..
Placed level:


Found out last evening that res is off:


With both on, you can tell from far:


Right one had to move more towards the left (2mm at top)...it was the Reservoir clip at top that was doing this:


Left one had to move more towards the right (1mm at top).. again it was the Reservoir clip at top that was doing this:


****



Fixed that ****:this evening:


Lost like an hour everytime dismantling everything and putting it back together:

Poor shot in garage...but atleast its fixed 4 hrs later:


Was trying the AQ RGB leds in:


Found one of them to be bad:


Filled some water to check no leaks....as I had doubts. The top part of the Aqualis D5 Pump Adaptor was out a bit (you can see in the photograph)
. But it didn't leak...hmmm


with trial and error found out that you can use an allen key with the right size to screw the plexi alphacool led holder further in.
It will take a while to get the allen key out again...


But when you do, and without sleeving:


Two sets of RGB wires come out of the D5 Pump adaptor ...I don't want to run them down again through the regular STH10 hole.


At same time, don't want all the cabling to go to AQ5 Pro in front of case...

So at the markings making 3 sets of cutouts. a) for screw adjustment on the AQ5 5.25 bay and (b) for the wires to come through
The middle 5.25 is for vandal switches (3 of them). So AQ5 Pro1, Bay for 3xVandal switches and AQ5 Pro 2.


For each pump, res unit two cutouts 1) 1" below for power, usb, aq bus etc. 2) 0.5" above for 2xRGB


And **** again...realized if the lightbox is 1.5" tall (currently 0.75" shown with right side (one part that redid 2 nights ago), I will not have enough spacing for wires coming out of the left res-pump-adaptor set in picture above. (damn...have to rethink layout without raising the unit).


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Love how it is going so far! To me, it looks like you are trying to make a sort of sLight panel for you case? If you are, then I would ditch the CCFL things and go for LEDS along the edge of etched acrylic. I will be posting more details in my build log but until then, here is the link for how to make the "fancy" sLight. LINK

You will be able to have a light panel all within 0.5in!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Fuganater

subbed


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Love how it is going so far! To me, it looks like you are trying to make a sort of sLight panel for you case? If you are, then I would ditch the CCFL things and go for LEDS along the edge of etched acrylic. I will be posting more details in my build log but until then, here is the link for how to make the "fancy" sLight. LINK
> You will be able to have a light panel all within 0.5in!
> Jeffinslaw


NIce...where do i buy the truLED sheet in the US?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> NIce...where do i buy the truLED sheet in the US?


I got mine from here: LINK

Click on the link for "Affordable LED Lighting..." I got the regular double density LED tape. You do have to wire on your own connection. I used a fan connector. Use the Red and Black wires if using a fan connector.

Hope I helped!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I got mine from here: LINK
> Click on the link for "Affordable LED Lighting..." I got the regular double density LED tape. You do have to wire on your own connection. I used a fan connector. Use the Red and Black wires if using a fan connector.
> Hope I helped!
> Jeffinslaw


Thanks....but looking for the trueLED white acrylic sheet with less than 50% light throughput

Tested one RGB with AQ5:

Tested others:

Front with 2sxAQ:

And with modded MnpcTech bay for 3 vandal switches:


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Okay... so,

This how I made mine. The guide on this is in the old thread that is linked to the new thread, the German one I gave you. I purchased two pieces of the sign white acrylic found HERE. These are your top pieces and your bottom pieces. The next piece you will need is a 1/4in piece of clear etched acrylic. This is a clear piece of acrylic that has a checkered pattern in it. The squares in the pattern are a few millimeters wide. You can purchase the etched acrylic HERE. The owner Jeff (not me, I swear haha) is a really nice guy, just tell him you are interested in the "Murderbox Light panel etched acrylic" and he will know what you're talking about.

Here is the guide on HardForum HERE

This isn't very cheap but it will give you the best results I think. It is MUCH cheaper than the second method on the German forum (the one I linked you too).

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks Jeffinslaw for your guide.

So did the cutouts using 1" hole saw and primed and painted it satin white, in a big rectangle giving it 3mm border to original powder coat of white;


Messed up the right res, 1" hole ..it started to rattle and had to flip it over and do it from the other side. It will get hidden with the grommet..:


Got brown insulation tape for the 4th set of radiator fans which will get sleeved copper brown:


For my own reference since i had to go back and see which way the crimps go. The one with the big clip is towards the grooved side of the fan connector:


Received 35mm screws from MDPC with brain washer...got a lot:


Stacked with 4 colors of sleeve:


----------



## Seanimus

By the way its 35mm screws on cougar fans with brainwasher and on the side with STH10 frame.
Other side is 30 mm without STH10 frame. Don't want anyone to mess up their radiator.







Still working on orange one..


----------



## yakaway

Nice. please let us know when you reach the moon.


----------



## Seanimus

Took a shot of the front lawn and drive way to Garage. Incase Sandy ...Category 1 hurricane destroys it...










Few birds took refuge in garage...
Hope they don't slam into me while doing the orange bracket for pump..


----------



## Seanimus




----------



## henry9419

looking good, cant wait to order my case on friday, i wish i had a psu and a pile of sleeving to hide away with for the storm, oh well, just wishing the power doesnt go out







anyway best of luck on your build and cant wait to start mine


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *henry9419*
> 
> looking good, cant wait to order my case on friday, i wish i had a psu and a pile of sleeving to hide away with for the storm, oh well, just wishing the power doesnt go out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyway best of luck on your build and cant wait to start mine


Thank you. Hope things go well on your side...Home Depot is sold out on Batteries/Lanterns...Not sure how much work I will get done, if power goes out when Sandy hits east coast. And who in the hell gave it a name like "Sandy"...for Category 1.

I did the stuff that I had to run around for today. And wanted to get the fittings going to see what I have to return/get..

Washed 8 foot workbench with soap and got all the paint and dirt out...


Tried 15mm extender fittings on radiators at bottom for flushing:


Each unit here is 3 pieces: 90 degree , adaptor and ball valve:


Had to go with 20mm extender fittings.


With bottom plate on:
This is normal mode:


And this would be when I want to flush the sysem ...(lol):


Left one here is bitspower. Right one is Alphacool.....Bitspower one has a huge ball (lol again). ***. can't find anyother suitable words.


Ok back to work..

Well this sucks...left radiator in picture is fine with the out port....Left one is blocked....


Which means I have to go as follows:


Man I need to get rid of thoese white fittings and compression ones too....they are pointless at very point somewhere or the other I end up with one part being black. Another todo, have to send email to Mark at FrozenCpu and Hank at Performance PCS to take White parts back....

That causes another headache as the Flow Meter USB now have to go side by side -- maybe as follows:


Or I have to get a new center compartment wall from STH10 and redo layout and place flowmeter with M3x35mm screws:


Thoughts welcome!!


----------



## Seanimus

I could leave the flow sensor in the bottom compartment as follows:


----------



## deafboy

Loving this build so far.... great work


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Loving this build so far.... great work


Thanks...

I could get another part like this from the BMW showcase, maybe one that is shorter...and get all sorts of reflections going with cabling:


----------



## Fuganater

You already drilled the case some. Why not drill a hole where the out is on the left rad?


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> You already drilled the case some. Why not drill a hole where the out is on the left rad?


I am sorry don't follow....
You mean use a T instead of 90 under the case, and have it loop back inside with a 90 and then flow sensor?


----------



## Fuganater

Drill a hole in the panel where the hole to the rad is.


----------



## Seanimus

Ahh for the "In" ports. Drilling that hole from the horizontal mount in the picture is easy.
The problem is the motherboard wall sits right above that vertically. would have to do a very complex U type cut

I could do the left one in picture straight as its open. For the right one not use the "In" port in the lower compartment with 90 bend. ......I think it will even look symmetrical in this layout...with wall. from front .
Have to take a picture tonight to explain ..


----------



## Nutman

Nice progress so far!

I plan to purchase one set of AC D5 pump, pump adapter and Aqualis res - and also those yellow decoupling thingies.

Could I ask for a favor?

As I plan to run my set upright, I was was wondering if I did NOT use a res holder the (the black one you got there), would the whole setup tilt slightly away from the surface it was mounted on? Those yellow decouplers are supposedly softer than "regular" ones and I fear the res WILL tilt away from the mounting surface because of that. ESPECIALLY when the weight of the cooling fluid is added to the equation.

How do you say? Up for the task?


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nutman*
> 
> Nice progress so far!
> I plan to purchase one set of AC D5 pump, pump adapter and Aqualis res - and also those yellow decoupling thingies.
> Could I ask for a favor?
> As I plan to run my set upright, I was was wondering if I did NOT use a res holder the (the black one you got there), would the whole setup tilt slightly away from the surface it was mounted on? Those yellow decouplers are supposedly softer than "regular" ones and I fear the res WILL tilt away from the mounting surface because of that. ESPECIALLY when the weight of the cooling fluid is added to the equation.
> How do you say? Up for the task?


It will tilt. And why not spend another $10 on the res holder clip on a $200 unit anyways when in doubt and return if you dont need it.


----------



## Nutman

Because they only make it in black acrylic - I simply don't understand why they don't offer a clear acrylic version.

But OK, thanks for answering. I'll make my own in clear acrylic, thanks.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nutman*
> 
> Because they only make it in black acrylic - I simply don't understand why they don't offer a clear acrylic version.
> But OK, thanks for answering. I'll make my own in clear acrylic, thanks.


Its not even black acrylic. Its plastic.
Clear Acrylic will look good especially if you get the edges all shiny, you will get some reflections going with proper light


----------



## Seanimus

Anyone used this type of RGB signal amplifier. Guys at AQ said i can't load the AQ5 with more than one RGB .


----------



## Nutman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Its not even black acrylic. Its plastic.
> Clear Acrylic will look good especially if you get the edges all shiny, you will get some reflections going with proper light


Yup. I just put up the question on Aqua Computer's English forum:

"Will you ever make a clear acrylic version of the res holder, or should I just make one myself?"


----------



## Nutman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Anyone used this type of RGB signal amplifier. Guys at AQ said i can't load the AQ5 with more than one RGB .


Hehe, oddly enough I DID start a thread on AC's forum a few days ago, asking if it is possible to use more than one RGB LED.

See here:

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/p1385332-rgb-illumination-module-for-aquaero-5-more-leds/#post1385332

This Larry guy has come up with an interesting "solution", but I'm not sure if it will do what I intend to do. I guess I will have to actually start USING my Aquaero 5 to become wiser.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nutman*
> 
> Hehe, oddly enough I DID start a thread on AC's forum a few days ago, asking if it is possible to use more than one RGB LED.
> See here:
> http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/p1385332-rgb-illumination-module-for-aquaero-5-more-leds/#post1385332
> This Larry guy has come up with an interesting "solution", but I'm not sure if it will do what I intend to do. I guess I will have to actually start USING my Aquaero 5 to become wiser.


I doubt that. One would take the RGB signal boost the power meaning supply additional power when amps start increasing without causing any feedback to the AQ5.
RGB are so low in power draw really don't understand why they just don't sell an additional module to handle even a RGB strip. There are lower profile ones than the ones I posted.
Anyways reading the instructions on the lower profile one...i think i figured out this one..

Input is RGB for wires and black goes to V+
Output is same for RGB and V+
Red and Black from the power supply 12V, will go to the "out" side of unit ...which is really "in'...
I inferred this from the following diagram:
http://img.inkfrog.com/click_nelarge1.orig.php?image=Amp-S.jpg&username=tingxian1984&aid=331420912
which might be totally wrong..lol


----------



## Nutman

If you can get hold of p0Pe over on Bit-tech's forums (not sure he's not here already?), he might be able to help. I think he used RGB LED strips for his "PC-Beto" project. Not sure if he used an RGB Amp, too, though...


----------



## Seanimus

Got side tracked for few hours on this bunny trail of RGB..back to work.

Popped open the d5...


On wiring, decided to do Aquabus first


Took inventory of pins..
Top to bottom..

Have enough fan pins for building Aquabus x2 for x4 connection points
Have a ton of molex female.
Have only 8 male molex pins
Have 0 black male housing...****


Not sure why i have this RPM signal...don't even need it:

And can't find my aquabus Y adaptor which I am pretty sure I got..

(1) What are these two types of pins on lower part of picture.
Assume top ones are for Male Fan pins, and bottom is for Male ATX Power pins?


(2) Why can't I find 6 pin power connectors on frozen cpu or performance pcs...they all 6pin vga...Ordered some from a website, and it seems they are PSU specific -Corsair etc..

(3) I know Aquabus high connector is the only one I can use as AQ/Shoggy confirmed that. Can I just go point to point ...and I won't need 3x wires coming out of AQ5 in parallel. So it will be AQ5 to D5Pump adaptor , then to D5 and then to Flow. Don't see the difference ...its not power its just informational signals going back and forth and either ways each device would need an identifier to communicate with AQ5.


----------



## Systemlord

Seanimus is there a reason why you got that model AC flow sensors instead of getting the newer MPS line of flow sensors? I can't for the life of me understand why everyone is buying the updated AC high flow USB model updated unit...?


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Seanimus is there a reason why you got that model AC flow sensors instead of getting the newer MPS line of flow sensors? I can't for the life of me understand why everyone is buying the updated AC high flow USB model updated unit...?


The AC flow sensor I got is the new model of USB. The MPS model does not use a mechanical part inside. Also when you want to order the MPS one...you are challenged with a question of which delta model you want. And without anticipating what flow you may have I was stumped in answering that question; given that this is my first liquid cooled build. So I got the traditional model with "impeller" inside (I think its called impeller)

So I took this shot with 4 (5pin) usb outs and 1 (10pin) usb in. FUGLY.


And then Sandy hit big time and lost power....so I am out of Power, Phone, Internet since Monday night...and no expectation of power till next Monday.
Have gas and hence hot water which is blessing.

*Monday* night went to the car...to charge phones and have dinner. Took some shots while eating icecream:







And rolling in *Tuesday* morning:


The lights on the handles of the BMW can light up the garage pretty well. Never noticed these things until its all dark.


Tried working on cables with this light...not much help:


Cut this one open...but then couldn't continue working in the dark like that...


Tuesday night...got fire going Still no POWER...**** and its getting cold.
Wife and son quickly flocked near my workspace.


Found son Tuesday night, in garage using my car to charge his phone..


*Wednesday* morning and still no power. Decided to come to work at Verizon headquarters which is fully operational in NJ to get some work done and make this post..

Found my colleague nicely dressed, fresh and looking pretty. Thought she had power at home for a moment. Found out she has no roof on her house, and took a shower in the river next to her house, and dried her hair on fire next to river bed. Now that I could never do..not with freezing water.


----------



## ziztop

*** Sweeeeeeeet Lord! Too bad we're not there to see her turn into a smoking hot mermaid.
Next time, we want a heads up for a pay-per view. Hot pic by the way&#8230; this explains why dudes are always








im taking a shower in the canal next to her house







tommorrow


----------



## Nutman

Sweet looking colleague you got there.

We have a saying here in Denmark: "Nød lærer nøgen kvinde at spinde".
Directly translated to english it goes something like: "Necessity teaches a naked woman how to weave".

I guess some people can just make the best of it and still smile - amazing. Makes me kinda fall in love with her just because of that smile in her situation. Wonderful.

But OK, back to geek talk:

Found out there are projects going on over on the german AC forums concerning people making their own LED Amps for the RGB output of the Aquaero 5. Use Google Translate for these:

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/berwachung-und-steuerung/102291-aquaero-led-amp/
http://forum.aquacomputer.de/berwachung-und-steuerung/101672-mehrere-led-am-aquaero-reprise/


----------



## Nutman

The maker of the RGBAmp in the second link even made a construction manual (PDF file) in english - amazing!

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/index.php?page=Attachment&attachmentID=3175&h=8ab320dca0fefe20ea4296c492749846347ec588


----------



## ForestGirl111

That's my picture!







I like to live out in the wild.

If you want another mental image, picture me with a chainsaw - I was chopping trees all day yesterday!
The storm was pretty bad; I lost one full roof, and part of another so that it rained into my house.



After collecting rain water to brush my teeth with, I was happy to be warm at work where there's coffee


----------



## Nutman

Welcome to the forums









Potentially, there's lots of stuff for a stand-up woman like you here.


----------



## cpachris

+ rep for Forest Girl.


----------



## Seanimus

By the way, how do I ban someone from my thread?
And power/internet is back ..









Seen the damage I did working in the dark...
Had it set at 6mm and it should be 5mm:


Closeup of that connector pin for USB:


This is wrong way of crimping:


This is right....These shots are with Macro Lens...so everything is magnified...



Black wire in is the perfect way into connector:

Others are not the perfect way...just means it got turned around while pushing the wire in (blame the blackout lol)

Doesn't show well...but I forgot to put the regular heatshrink, and used before connecting other side. And ended up using a wider heatshrink. Got too excited with power/internet being back up. Used white here, and will use black for next one....if I can find it.


Top one is black original, bottom is dark grey....Not sure why camera didn't show difference, have to see what settings I changed there during balckout, while taking photos of the car interior.

Needed a custom one because its longer...The one I have is higher guage..Would not suggest doing usb recrimping..it is very painful.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> By the way, how do I ban someone from my thread?


You think you can ignore their posts, so the next time the problem child posts you will not be notified of that particular post. It will appear as if no one has posted.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> You think you can ignore their posts, so the next time the problem child posts you will not be notified of that particular post. It will appear as if no one has posted.


Thanks....


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks....


You are welcome, there is one way you might see the post is if someone else quotes his post, can't be 100% on that one though.









It's very quiet on OCN this early in the morning, 12:20am here.


----------



## alancsalt

Subbed. Amazing attention to detail. Read everything so far. Only half understood what you were trying to accomplish sometimes. Will watch and learn.


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks alancsalt.

Message from Shoggy on AQ Pump Adaptor with Fill Level Sensor:

"
Shoggy
Oct 26, 2012 at 3:43 am

Hi,

currently we experience the problem that a handful of customers have very strange readings from the fill level sensor inside the aqualis pump module.

We were able to track down the root of evil and it is the small plastic tube next to the sensor which transports the water. In some cases this could be a bit to long and will bend so that the water does not reach the sensor.

You can easily test this and I highly recommend to do that before you fill the system because if you are affected you can fix that yourself and do not have to drain the system.

Connect the USB cable to another system and run the aquasuite. On the left you can select the mps sensor. In the main windows with the chart you can see an unfiltered raw value in the lower left corner.

If this value is counting upwards without doing anything you are affected.

If it stays at value 0: take a look at this opening:



If the opening is on the right side you will have to flip over the plexiglas part.

If it is in the correct position: blow some air into that hole (with a tube or straw) and keep an eye on the raw value. It should rise and should fall back to 0 within a few seconds when you stop.

If the value does not change when you blow in some air or it does not recover back to 0, than you are affected from that problem.

I hope it works like it should, buf if not, please let me know.
"


----------



## bmxer4l1fe

been a lurker in here for a while, but i have some questions about the aquacomputer parts. This mainly has to do with the D5 pump.



http://imgur.com/kw1yf


so. starting from top left to bottom right

1) temp : is that a temp sensor? can i just connect a temp display to it to see the temp of the liquid in the system
2) USB: assuming this either plugs into the mobo or another aqua computer device. What does this allow the pump to do? Can you control flow / power output? I would assume there is some software that would be supplied by aquacomputer
3) tacho: assuming this is just revolutions per min on the pump. standard fan speed connection
4) aquabus: same questions for USB. Assumming it can only be connected to another aquacomputer hardware such as the aqua-ero

if you have the aqua-ero 5 ect, do you know what it can display for the pump? the temp ect?

Thanks,

Bmxer4l1fe

just for anyone else looking at these, here is the home website for the pump and display
pump:
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2901

Display/controller
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2668


----------



## Seanimus

Hi bmxer
All your questions are answered by the connection layout on *page 26, post #260.*
That layout evolved with following posts and a number of people chimed in:
Page 14 #148 (final one)
Page 11 #107, #110
Page 10 #95, #99,
Page 9 #90 (started here with a complex layout)

To answer your questions

1) temp : you dont need the temp out, aquabus will carry the temperature information to AQ5.
2) USB: only to motherboard or hub. Allows you set the pump speed using Aquasuite software.
3) tacho: you dont need to connect this, aquabus will carry the information to AQ5.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I got mine from here: LINK
> Click on the link for "Affordable LED Lighting..." I got the regular double density LED tape. You do have to wire on your own connection. I used a fan connector. Use the Red and Black wires if using a fan connector.
> Hope I helped!
> Jeffinslaw


Hi I found this at Amazon:
600led Pure Normal White 5M 500CM 3528 SMD LED Strip Light 12V
Which should be 5CM 6 SMD as per that build layout you linked over

The EVONIK website actually has an office in NJ...next town over from me..
ACRYLITE® truLED, sheet, White WH14 GT

Have to call them tomorrow to see if you do laser etching on the transparent acrylic.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Hi I found this at Amazon:
> 600led Pure Normal White 5M 500CM 3528 SMD LED Strip Light 12V
> Which should be 5CM 6 SMD as per that build layout you linked over
> The EVONIK website actually has an office in NJ...next town over from me..
> ACRYLITE® truLED, sheet, White WH14 GT
> Have to call them tomorrow to see if you do laser etching on the transparent acrylic.


Awesome! Damn.... I wish I would have found those LEDs before I bought the ones I did.... grrrrrrr. I might just buy those ones too.

Thanks!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## bmxer4l1fe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> To answer your questions
> 1) temp : you dont need the temp out, aquabus will carry the temperature information to AQ5.
> 2) USB: only to motherboard or hub. Allows you set the pump speed using Aquasuite software.
> 3) tacho: you dont need to connect this, aquabus will carry the information to AQ5.


do you know if the aquacompuer USB software can handle multiple pumps on the same system?


----------



## armartins

You know people say that the devil lives in detail.... well you sure care about his address... Sub'd, great work! Honestly I don't think red and orange match that well but the use of the same brand all over the components ties it up pretty well.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *armartins*
> 
> You know people say that the devil lives in detail.... well you sure care about his address... Sub'd, great work! Honestly I don't think red and orange match that well but the use of the same brand all over the components ties it up pretty well.


"about his address"...not sure what this is about...but so far one person has asked in private PM's. Thanks for subbing.

So guys what do I do about all the fittings I got in white. I posted earlier that one fitting or the other is going to be black.
And if I have to return the white fittings and get all black should I still stay compression/tubing or go link adaptor and copper tubes?. Big decision here!


----------



## Lshuman

Very nice setup, I'm in Philly and we got hit pretty hard also.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> So guys what do I do about all the fittings I got in white. I posted earlier that one fitting or the other is going to be black.
> And if I have to return the white fittings and get all black should I still stay compression/tubing or go link adaptor and copper tubes?. Big decision here!


Why not just get all the fittings you need in white? I think they look nicer with the white case.


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks Lshuman.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Why not just get all the fittings you need in white? I think they look nicer with the white case.


Hey cpachris...So stay compression/tygon and white? and avoid copper pipes?

Meanwhile.


----------



## cpachris

I think copper pipe with white fittings would be cool. It sounded like you were considering black fittings instead of white.


----------



## Seanimus

I thought only link adaptor from bits power work with 12mm od copper pipes and those come in black or silver... ?


----------



## cpachris

I have some link adapters in white. They will make them for you if you are nice enough to them...or place a big enough order.


----------



## Fuganater

Good luck. BP was supposed to sponsor me and make me Bronze Age fittings but they stopped replying to my emails.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *armartins*
> 
> You know people say that the devil lives in detail.... well you sure care about his address... Sub'd, great work! Honestly I don't think red and orange match that well but the use of the same brand all over the components ties it up pretty well.


Ah, an obscure pun, the devil's address is: "detail"..


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmxer4l1fe*
> 
> do you know if the aquacompuer USB software can handle multiple pumps on the same system?


You can connect and control as many USB devices as your system can handle. Each one gets its own tab in the software.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I have some link adapters in white. They will make them for you if you are nice enough to them...or place a big enough order.


PM me your contact at BP. Will give it a shot.
My attachment to white seems to be going down as weeks go by. Its white everywhere - my car, the case which is the size of the door of my car...Hence on the fence of going black for fittings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Good luck. BP was supposed to sponsor me and make me Bronze Age fittings but they stopped replying to my emails.


Damn...thats not nice. Did they atleast give you a response - like they are having issues with the color for Bronze Age or something?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I have some link adapters in white. They will make them for you if you are nice enough to them...or place a big enough order.
> 
> 
> 
> PM me your contact at BP. Will give it a shot.
> My attachment to white seems to be going down as weeks go by. Its white everywhere - my car, the case which is the size of the door of my car...Hence on the fence of going black for fittings.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Good luck. BP was supposed to sponsor me and make me Bronze Age fittings but they stopped replying to my emails.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Damn...thats not nice. Did they atleast give you a response - like they are having issues with the color for Bronze Age or something?
Click to expand...

Nope. Vincent just flat out stopped replying to my emails.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Good luck. BP was supposed to sponsor me and make me Bronze Age fittings but they stopped replying to my emails.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Nope. Vincent just flat out stopped replying to my emails.


Not sure how long its been...but they do get pretty behind on emails. I experienced the same thing. Perhaps if you offered to pay instead of asking for a sponsorship?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> PM me your contact at BP. Will give it a shot.
> My attachment to white seems to be going down as weeks go by. Its white everywhere - my car, the case which is the size of the door of my car...Hence on the fence of going black for fittings.
> Damn...thats not nice. Did they atleast give you a response - like they are having issues with the color for Bronze Age or something?


Well....black is definitely easier to find. That's for sure. But I think the white fittings with the black log is one of the sharpest they make. I'll PM you the contact.


----------



## ForestGirl111

Wouldn't plastic tubing be easier to manueaver during the build as opposed to copper tubes which are very rigid?
Maybe do copper pipes after your build is complete and fully operational.

Just an update on the storm situation: No power or running water yet, but no more showers in the river - the fitness center at work has hot water! But what will I do this weekend?????

I actually got to blowdry my hair today - it felt amazing


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForestGirl111*
> 
> Wouldn't plastic tubing be easier to manueaver during the build as opposed to copper tubes which are very rigid?
> Maybe do copper pipes after your build is complete and fully operational.
> Just an update on the storm situation: No power or running water yet, but no more showers in the river - the fitness center at work has hot water! But what will I do this weekend?????
> I actually got to blowdry my hair today - it felt amazing


I'm taking my girfriend to NYC tomorrow to stay the weekend. Planned it before Sandy struck. Any tips? I know the hotel is open. The airport says the flight will happen. Staying in Times Square where I think the electricity never went down. Sounds like the subways are still mostly out of commission right now though, right?


----------



## ForestGirl111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm taking my girfriend to NYC tomorrow to stay the weekend. Planned it before Sandy struck. Any tips? I know the hotel is open. The airport says the flight will happen. Staying in Times Square where I think the electricity never went down. Sounds like the subways are still mostly out of commission right now though, right?


Times Square does have power! I'd pack some rain boots for sure since there's bound to be puddles and get preapred for walking. There are a few subways running, but most are under water right now. The website below for Hop Stop has updated transit info. And the link below that has updates on restaurants that are open.

http://www.hopstop.com/

http://ny.eater.com/archives/2012/10/the_ultimate_hurricane_sandy_dining_guide_to_nyc.php

It's a resilient city so I'm sure you guys will find lots to do!


----------



## meeps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm taking my girfriend to NYC tomorrow to stay the weekend. Planned it before Sandy struck. Any tips? I know the hotel is open. The airport says the flight will happen. Staying in Times Square where I think the electricity never went down. Sounds like the subways are still mostly out of commission right now though, right?


Since you'll be in Times Square, stop by the Marriott Marquis (if it's operational). It's an amazingly cool hotel (went as a child, and re-lived my memories last weekend), which has exposed elevators up to the 45th floor and a revolving restaurant on the top.

Picture I took on my trip:


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm taking my girfriend to NYC tomorrow to stay the weekend. Planned it before Sandy struck. Any tips? I know the hotel is open. The airport says the flight will happen. Staying in Times Square where I think the electricity never went down. Sounds like the subways are still mostly out of commission right now though, right?


And cpachris, you are welcome to come to my house on Sunday and do some sleeving...


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForestGirl111*
> 
> Times Square does have power! I'd pack some rain boots for sure since there's bound to be puddles and get preapred for walking. There are a few subways running, but most are under water right now. The website below for Hop Stop has updated transit info. And the link below that has updates on restaurants that are open.
> http://www.hopstop.com/
> http://ny.eater.com/archives/2012/10/the_ultimate_hurricane_sandy_dining_guide_to_nyc.php
> It's a resilient city so I'm sure you guys will find lots to do!


Much thanks for the links. I'm assuming taxi's are still everywhere....at least in midtown. Right?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meeps*
> 
> Since you'll be in Times Square, stop by the Marriott Marquis (if it's operational). It's an amazingly cool hotel (went as a child, and re-lived my memories last weekend), which has exposed elevators up to the 45th floor and a revolving restaurant on the top.
> Picture I took on my trip:


I haven't stayed there before. Will check it out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> And cpachris, you are welcome to come to my house on Sunday and do some sleeving...


Ha! If the Westin closes down...you may get a PM tomorrow.









And now...I'll stop trying to use your thread as a travel planning guide.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Much thanks for the links. I'm assuming taxi's are still everywhere....at least in midtown. Right?
> 
> Ha! If the Westin closes down...you may get a PM tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now...I'll stop trying to use your thread as a travel planning guide.


Heard that you may have to share Taxi's and negotiate with other passenger on how you are splitting the fare. Since gas it as a premium cabs are advised to do so. Don't know if this is lifted now.
But I doubt it is....since gas stations in NJ have cars waiting for 2 hours to fill a maximum of $20 worth of gas. I will survive the weekend with my gas at half tank today...I believe Monday things will start to return to normal.

Only 10% of my town has power and knock on wood, I am in that 10%


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Good luck. BP was supposed to sponsor me and make me Bronze Age fittings but they stopped replying to my emails.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Nope. Vincent just flat out stopped replying to my emails.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure how long its been...but they do get pretty behind on emails. I experienced the same thing. Perhaps if you offered to pay instead of asking for a sponsorship?
Click to expand...

Its been over 2 months now. I'm sure that I'm just being ignored. I've sent 5 emails to him since his last email to me.


----------



## Seanimus

Which build is informative on copper tubing and places to get tools and copper tube of right size.

Going to send Bitspower an email...and hope I get a response..


----------



## cpachris

Check out B-Negative's latest build or his tutorial.....

http://www.overclock.net/t/1280153/pipe-bending-101/0_20


----------



## Seanimus

not much progress...Spent an hour finding my m3x10mm screws
ordered the parts for MuderBox type of lightbox

Got these M3 rubber washers from Hong Kong


Put 4xM3 screws on the main vertical panel---for cable management


Shot of back of the panel with wingnuts and MDPC P clip which is a bit smaller than I what I posted earlier locally.


Haven't figured out the RGB portion ...whether custom AMP...or not...so didn't bother cutting them..
This shot is from a low angle which would never be seen...but it looks nice!!
You can barely see the accent colors on the bracket for the D5 pump ( 2 colors brown and maroon)
And bracket that holds the entire assembly is now Matte Black :


----------



## cpachris

real nice.


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks.
Now that I looked at it multiple times from different angles....I think i will do the bracket that holds the entire assembly as white ...same color as the back ...which is also custom painted as Krylon White.
That will give the semi floating look.
You can see the edge where it blends to original powder coating of STH10 on the right side on the high res picture.


----------



## Seanimus

Doing Aquabus daisy chain for loop 1 (copper brown loop)....26AWG since 2 points will have double wires coming out.
This way of connecting is confirmed by AQ/Shoggy:

First of all , i needed 4 holes on the main vertical motherboard wall..Since the hardisk cage comes down into middle compartment.
To componsate for the time being stacked the AQ5. Final one will have one bay gap between AQ5.

Did first AQ5, heatshrink is done as yet. length 26" (I think):


Which goes to AQ Flow meter in bottom chamber. Everything is flat with brown tape...this way you don't even need to keep track of which wire is which..:


Need to cut off on this one...did 20" and it should be 15" going back to middle compartment:


Got excited and finished last part without reattaching and assumed 7" from D5 pump to Pump Adaptro..Bad idea (see picture after this):


Damn!...to tight a turn on last one:


Turned pump around 180 degrees to give some slack on wire above. Looks better but not perfect.


So AQ5-> Flow-->Pump-->Pump Adaptor-(end)


----------



## Seanimus

Looking at these pictures I am not sure I want to do white fittings and deal with BitsPower out in Taiwan. They are very responsive but...
Going black fittings and hoping PPCS and FrozenCPU take all white fittings back and just get all black and be done with the headache.

OMG...means also I can't go all white sleeving with accent colors, for motherboard, gpu, cpu....Catch 22 --since I already got the dumping pack of white...like 300 feet (I think).


----------



## Seanimus

Found out the AQ black faceplate (made of aluminium) is thinner than the original (steel--i think..anyways heavier and much tougher) ... Thats why I was having such a hard time 2 months ago in getting them into 5.25" bay. The screws on faceplate go in much deeper which makes the inside wings span out more...


Which is a shame since I spent like $100 in getting them painted with car paint as the color on the edges would not stick with some beating..

So primed original..


Was gonig to paint it orange and then started having second thoughts after looking at front again..


Redid the whole thing and primed one white and the other black..To get following colors going...which matches loop for loop.
loop 1 is copper brown..loop 2 is maroon so it will match the sleeving inside the case.
Maroon i used is burgundy on black primer...I could go Cherry Red on black primer and make it a bit brighter.
Thinking if I should give it a coat of Clear Coat (shiny) or Matte Finish.


----------



## Nutman

Very interesting colours.

Also, love daisychaining the Aquabus cables. Too bad one was too short and will have to be remade


----------



## Seanimus

Took Measurements for USB hub ...i guess top right for usb 1 hub. the second hub will go the left. This is the original cable from NZXT just using to get lengths.


Have to do usb wiring and aquabus in pairs and do sleeving and turns together....otherwise its going to get messy with 2 sets of sleeved cables going in at different angles and turns to same spot.

In shot below the usb connection is to the right & behind of the aquabus of the pump and adaptor..



which also means the pump the way I had it on this turned, is the correct way.
and the Y will have to start behind the motherboard wall, branching into 3, and then pairing with the respective USB wire coming in.


----------



## Seanimus

Took out sticker at back and couldn't find way in..Hah...they just pop out....


These vandal switches from PPCS are nice. You can't read this normally, but under macro lens its clear
C= from device you want to control
NO= power the device when button is depressed
NC= power the device when button is out
- = black wire from psu for led
+ = Red wire from psu power for led 12V


The female spade connectors are here.


----------



## Seanimus




----------



## Seanimus

Did a boo-boo, used paint stripper on plastic and messed up my blu-ray drive:

Have to order new one, and kind of fix this plastic for use on another computer (for my son..haha)
Why are there so little choices of blu ray writers on newegg....seems LG is the only one that looks decent. Any recommendations other than that for 3D playback/writer?

Since the change of colors (above is not the only loss)...thought I would replace white sleeving (110meters of mdpc) with Dark Grey ...which I ordered!! And then I have 200 feet of white 18AWG wire which if I contnue down this track I have to replace with black 18AWG. Another hit.

Bah full of losses these 2 days and another storm headed to east coast....When will this stop!!

Anyways here is a shot of AQ5 power connector options. Space is limited. Can't go low profile as wires will hit heat sink/bracket. Middle one only choice. Left one (two sided) is out of the question also, as it will hit the bracket.


Just going naked wire without sleeving between AQ5's. Same shot on right have some other parts I received ..(normally don't post my mail...but it was on my table).


Also ordered Brown, Red and Black AWG wire just incase.
Need Brown for 12V , Red for 5V and just using white wire for now for ground between AQ5's . NOt sure if I will use the MNPCTech for Vandal Switches...Will see at end depending on how many light boxes i use.


----------



## Nutman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> . NOt sure if I will use the MNPCTech for Vandal Switches...Will see at end depending on how many light boxes i use.


Huh? How so? What has the number of light boxes got to do with which sleeving you're going to use?


----------



## Bill Owen

for 1st liquid build, you picked all of the GOOD stuff, er...REALLY GOOD stuff.....great project log


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bill Owen*
> 
> for 1st liquid build, you picked all of the GOOD stuff, er...REALLY GOOD stuff.....great project log


Thanks....and will buy a carton of Bounty Paper Towel on the first leak test and do it in the garage...so wife doesn't freak out with distilled water on the floor.


----------



## Seanimus

Got this huge package and thought I misordered again ...


Evonik (same acrylic as in muderbox specs) sells in the US and got in 2 days..With some awesome packaging:


I definitely did not need such large pieces but the price difference between 12x24 and 24x24 was like $8 per sheet and just ordered extra:


Have to find a place to laser etch the 0.25" transparent acrylic. And another place to cut this smoothly with polish. Sick of cutting acrylic...smelt of burnt acrylic for a whole day at work.

Getting cold again...Have to clean the fireplace, and started a fire going.
Have to bring my computer from garage inside the house.....Can't work in garage anymore, unless I put a heater in there...
Storm supposed to hit tomorrow


Have to fix the wires on this to make a nice curved bend...It was nice at start, but then realized the long power line has to be from top side, and had to flip everything around (and without desoldering/crimping).


Center wires to Vandal switches.. I know i need the brown and its white wire for powering the lightbox.
The red wire and its white wire ...i just extended it here......Maybe for future use, or i may just nip it at the molex.


----------



## henry9419

looking good, i guess you have power back or no? i got mine sunday morning, i was gonna order my case this weekend but ended up with a nice new samsung 830 series ssd instead, 256GB, its a step towards the next build at least


----------



## Seanimus

Yeah I got power on Wednesday. Probably going to go out tomorrow..depending on the wind speed when it hits my area....More trees start falling then more power lines go down.


----------



## cpachris

I hope you'll post lots of pics and info on the light panel process. I've read tons online...and everyone does it just a little bit different. I'm planning to try one in mine....would love to see you try it first.

Back from NYC....went in the Marriott Marquis as suggested....but they had the elevators closed except for guests....until 4:00 pm. Never made it back later to try again. Spent some time down in Little Italy and China Town on Saturday, and most of the restaurants and shops were just opening up again for the first time that day. In mid-town....everything was fine. Saw a couple of shows, and did all the touristy things with my gf who had not been before. Good to be back home though. Hope this second storm spares you. Good luck.


----------



## Seanimus

Look at this piece of crap...probably worth $2 and selling for $15 due to situation (another storm tomorrow)...and wife buys 4 of them getting ready for tomorrow's possible outage..


Brought computer back in the house....Surprised it hardly gathered any dust in the garage for more than a week. Wife's sound equipment for singing back there which she can't access due to all the stuff I have on the floor from the computer build. ...She is so patient, waiting for 2 months....probably going to hit me on the head one of these days.


To make matters worse occupied other side of family room as well:


And the kitchen bar..


And the dining room:


Only a matter of time before she leaves me...due to this build..

So in retaliation, she started putting her books in my home theather room....very small mess on right.

The rack is filled with lead shots so each rack is like 20 -30 pounds (depending on how much I filled it) so stop vibration and ends in cone to connect to next rack with pivot to stop traversal of vibration.
All speakers are french - JMLabs, sound system is canadian Anthem.
The hometheather pc is in a Antec case.



This subwoofer is downfiring...and would shake my sons monitor in the basement...So i cut out a hole in the floor with a circular saw, and goes all the way to the joists (beams) in the basement ceiling and filled it with sand. There are two 2"x6" wood to absorb initial hit of the subwoofer and the sand dissipates the rest before it goes the basement. Below that is nice frame so from the front it can be barely seen.

All power cables for whole system are shielded on the inside with some sort of foil (12 guage).
avoid interference with interconnects (digitial and analog signals), sleeved and ends with hospital grade connectors.

All interconnects (a dozen i think) themselves have a shield (blue light indicates its on) around them to stop interference from nearby power cables.
Its a super build...
My computer build is hardly 10% of this build !! and took me 6 months to finish...with dedicated 12AMP line from main circuit and Richard Gray unit cleansing the entire power circuit.



Speaker cables are silver 1" thick (with shielding and insulation) for 3 front, 0.5" for 2 sides, and monster flat cables going through basement and behind home theather chairs for 2 rears (so 7.1 channel)...will post shot some other time..


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I hope you'll post lots of pics and info on the light panel process. I've read tons online...and everyone does it just a little bit different. I'm planning to try one in mine....would love to see you try it first.
> Back from NYC....went in the Marriott Marquis as suggested....but they had the elevators closed except for guests....until 4:00 pm. Never made it back later to try again. Spent some time down in Little Italy and China Town on Saturday, and most of the restaurants and shops were just opening up again for the first time that day. In mid-town....everything was fine. Saw a couple of shows, and did all the touristy things with my gf who had not been before. Good to be back home though. Hope this second storm spares you. Good luck.


Your alive!! yay.


----------



## meeps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I hope you'll post lots of pics and info on the light panel process. I've read tons online...and everyone does it just a little bit different. I'm planning to try one in mine....would love to see you try it first.
> Back from NYC....went in the Marriott Marquis as suggested....but they had the elevators closed except for guests....until 4:00 pm. Never made it back later to try again. Spent some time down in Little Italy and China Town on Saturday, and most of the restaurants and shops were just opening up again for the first time that day. In mid-town....everything was fine. Saw a couple of shows, and did all the touristy things with my gf who had not been before. Good to be back home though. Hope this second storm spares you. Good luck.


That's unfortunate about the elevators, but at least you got to see the interior which is pretty mind blowing (IMO). Glad the trip was good regardless!


----------



## xlink64

Hey Seanimus, I've been following your build for a while and i'm thinking about purchasing an aquacomputer aqualis res/pump myself. What do you think of them so far?


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xlink64*
> 
> Hey Seanimus, I've been following your build for a while and i'm thinking about purchasing an aquacomputer aqualis res/pump myself. What do you think of them so far?


Hi Xlink64...
Performance -- i don't know ..its not hooked up.
But sure feels good when you hold it..nice and sturdy...and looks good.


----------



## Fuganater

They make good stuff. Hence why it is so expensive.


----------



## xlink64

Cool, thanks for the feedback guys.


----------



## Seanimus

Shrinkless sleeving:










This is wrong, since it goes over..to far in:




Open up the female connectors.. :




Was doing connection to SATA...and then new Blu Ray arrived....Rest of mail has 3-4 days delay as USPS is all messed up..


----------



## Nutman

Niiiiice!


----------



## cpachris

I really like those cable clips running along the frame. Very nice.


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks.

Bitspower responds to my emails within a day regarding white Link Adapter. But at the end of the day, nothing is shipped. I keep saying I will pay. And they keep saying they are looking to sponsor me. This is goign to take forever.
Contacted Hank at Performance PCS to see if he can help ... he can probably get a much larger order faster than I could get with my small order of 16x.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Bitspower responds to my emails within a day regarding white Link Adapter. But at the end of the day, nothing is shipped. I keep saying I will pay. And they keep saying they are looking to sponsor me. This is goign to take forever.
> Contacted Hank at Performance PCS to see if he can help ... he can probably get a much larger order faster than I could get with my small order of 16x.


Can't say I didn't warn you...


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Can't say I didn't warn you...


So now what....have everything for middle compartment in white with white compression fittings and white bulkhead (lightbox). Just go tubing or take the hit for white fittings as a loss and go black with copper tubes and return what I can and ebay rest.??


----------



## Fuganater

Paint the Black ones white.


----------



## Seanimus

Slight box...Had a local sign shop cut this for me. Little loss in material ..For transparent I cut double the quantity (because I have a feeling the laser engraving guy is going ot mess it up).




BluRay arrived last night. Dismantled it in like 10 mins, since I got enough practice with the old one that is destroyed now:




Doing radiator fans as well, since the paint smell is already getting to me...might as well go all the way. Too cold to open the garage door.












I don't know if i snapped the fans out correctly. Since 2 came out with an additional part from inside:


OMG....my son messed up my 5.25 STH10 brackets..he also painted a screwdriver of mine, and tons of other screws. Going to lock up all the paints.


Put some pclips on this MNPCTech mount for wires. Don't have a short 5.25 bracket, so I cut a long one out for this bay. Have to order one from CaseLabs, but this will do for now. Its filed down and primed.
Can't proceed with cabling here, because USPS is all delayed , and I don't know if its a week. need the female spade connectors.


This is shot of how it will look like. Lost one screw (bottom right in picture)..Probably find it later on when I get back from lunch.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Paint the Black ones white.


Was staying away from that..because it will come off easily if I do it.....But good idea. I can always leave that one part black (well 12 of them) and paint it professionally before the first leak test.


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meeps*
> 
> Since you'll be in Times Square, stop by the Marriott Marquis (if it's operational). It's an amazingly cool hotel (went as a child, and re-lived my memories last weekend), which has exposed elevators up to the 45th floor and a revolving restaurant on the top.
> Picture I took on my trip:


Here in Reno the Atlantis hotel has those elevators.
And im still reading this wishing I could be doing all that fun stuff myself D:
Awesome work.


----------



## Seanimus

Doing the power for AQ5's molex ...Having two wires coming out of each molex is not working the way I would like to. Will try shrinkless for one (the long one going to PSU)...and naked wires between AQ5 and MNPCTech. Have to make the wires in tight curves otherwise it doesn't look nice.

cpaChris did you have this problem. I remember seeing a post in your build some time back..


----------



## Seanimus

Front of case mounted.

*Before*:


*After:*
2 AQ5's + MNPCTech (Beginning to not like this mount, it bends in 5.25 bay)


2 AQ5's + MNPCTech + Blu Ray


2 AQ5's + MNPCTech + 3.25 Bay


Both are good, just new look will go nicely with inside sleeving.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Doing the power for AQ5's molex ...Having two wires coming out of each molex is not working the way I would like to. Will try shrinkless for one (the long one going to PSU)...and naked wires between AQ5 and MNPCTech. Have to make the wires in tight curves otherwise it doesn't look nice.
> cpaChris did you have this problem. I remember seeing a post in your build some time back..


I would have....if I hadn't turned the PA2's 45 degrees so that the wires were straight.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I would have....if I hadn't turned the PA2's 45 degrees so that the wires were straight.


Thanks for replying...that is what i want to avoid the heatshrink not going into crimp and just hanging. Redid the entire SATA cabling just to avoid that. Been looking at this for hours from various angles to see if an idea pops out.


----------



## Seanimus

Had some issue with the white bay-cover (MNPCTech). Bad shot, but it started to bend (bow) outwards when screws were tightened.

I think i fixed the problem later in the night after bending it a few times (with hand and little force....its not good quality for sure).
Will put it back later on today in between the AQ5's.

Spent few hours last night thinking how I would do the power wiring/distribution between AQ5 and Vandal Switches.
Doing Y's between the units was getting frustrating - working and cutting small lengths of wires just didn't feel right.
I put another unit in...which is the vertical stand with fan. I believe I cannot avoid this because the AQ's are going to get hot and this fan would blow air from inside the case on to them. THere is cool air coming from hard disk side.
There will be one below the 3 pieces (AQ's+MNPCTech), for air towards pumps.



So the last thought I had before goign to bed last night (after staring at this thing for an hour), was I will run the wire in this groove between the case vertical stand.


And run unsleeved wires between the AQ5's and vandal switches. I'll make it nice and tight and will be behind the fan. I cannot have it come out too much otherwise it will hit the fan.
As long as all cabling is within 3 inches of the units.


After I took shot above, thought maybe i can just splice this fan frame so it leaves only base plastic part and fan will look much cooler.


----------



## Seanimus

Got heater going in garage :


Damn batteries leaked in remote for heater:


Did like 5 fans...3 red and 2 copper brown:


Stipped PSU :


Kept wife's car out...and tried priming it:


Had to strip it again:


And again :


Did sata in mean time:


Did two tone on PSU with fading copper brown:


Gloss Coat curing at the moment...


----------



## YP5 Toronto

sooo sick. Thanks for the updates.


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> 
> And run unsleeved wires between the AQ5's and vandal switches. I'll make it nice and tight and will be behind the fan. I cannot have it come out too much otherwise it will hit the fan.
> As long as all cabling is within 3 inches of the units.
> 
> After I took shot above, thought maybe i can just splice this fan frame so it leaves only base plastic part and fan will look much cooler.


I may have a solution to this problem for you, Im not sure if you were aware, But aquatuning sells a waterblock for those controllers, and since you are doing WC, I thought it would be nice to inform you. As you seem to not fancy the fan idea. They replace those small heatsinks, same screws and everything I believe.

Linky:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p11307_Aquacomputer-waterblock-for-aquaero-5--G1-4.html


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> I may have a solution to this problem for you, Im not sure if you were aware, But aquatuning sells a waterblock for those controllers, and since you are doing WC, I thought it would be nice to inform you. As you seem to not fancy the fan idea. They replace those small heatsinks, same screws and everything I believe.
> Linky:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p11307_Aquacomputer-waterblock-for-aquaero-5--G1-4.html


Yes I am aware of that. Few people have advised that I would need it in my system. AQ says its fine without AQ5 water block. I am only going to put the fan there if I need it....
THe real problem in my earlier post, is the wiring coming from PSU to AQ5 and the way its going to look.


----------



## Fuganater

The AQ5 block is UBER restrictive.


----------



## Seanimus

I was so high last night, with all the paint fumes and using stripper so many times. When I bought my wife's car back in the garage I bumped into the stool holding the PSU cover and it fell... Redid it again this evening with garage door fully open...

Engraver did a sample piece below, and he didn't screw up. Not cheap -- like $180. I had to go there and give him inch to metric conversion table on paper as they don't know metric system.
Picking up 2 pieces tomorrow 22"x6 3/4" and 14" x 2" for two lightboxes, since sample came out perfect.

I have to get the edges polished? If yes, can I do it myself...have dremmel, polisher..just don't know technique & polish compound to get.


----------



## Seanimus

Should have clarified - Lightbox above is SLightbox (murderbox) design ..

Did family vote thing on which fan (cough!) for PSU, went copper brown:






.


----------



## YP5 Toronto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> I was so high last night, with all the paint fumes and using stripper so many times.


...sure it was the "paint fumes"


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> I was so high last night, with .... stripper so many times. ....did it again this evening with garage door fully open......Not cheap -- like $180.


Fun with quotes..... ^^^^^

I'd say $180 is a bargain for doing it with the garage door fully open.


----------



## Clockdripdoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eric335*
> 
> Join the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2007 SGM E92 335i (with the older N54). Hence my username
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just went through the whole thread, and damn, thats an awesome/expensive build! Nice!


2008 e92 335i here. My username has nothing do to with my car lol.

Back on topic.....NICE


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svtfast*
> 
> 2008 e92 335i here. My username has nothing do to with my car lol.
> Back on topic.....NICE


Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Fun with quotes..... ^^^^^
> I'd say $180 is a bargain for doing it with the garage door fully open.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YP5 Toronto*
> 
> ...sure it was the "paint fumes"












So PSU still works...sata and bluray will not come on unless its connected to motherboard?
Just wanted to check if eject button works on bluray ..lol.

Original:


Before:


Now:


Cabling:
First Time with 2 sets of cables:


Second Time:


Now:


----------



## alancsalt

Beautiful so far...


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Beautiful so far...


Thanks.

Going to get this Phobya bay (steel) and replace the MNPCTech one (aluminium).
Phobya 5x 22mm Bulgin Style Switch Mount Bay Cover - Stainless Steel for $18.


----------



## Seanimus

Got blu ray and other sata devices to run. I had flipped the wires going to PSU in a mirror image. Must have been all those paint fumes.










And in switching the cables around...I broke the last leg of the MDPC molex remover. I burst out laughing, as I had a spare.
Nils is gonna lecture me now; so I read his instructions again and followed them to letter with the spare Molex remover..and it worked (ofcourse wearing my glasses helped also):







-s


----------



## Seanimus

Transparent Acrylic laser etched:

Big one is 22" x 6 3/4 (between lower and middle compartment)
Middle sized one is 14" x 2" (thinking on top of the motherboard power cable and sata data cables). Still need to cut a black acrylic and get it CNC machined (cut through) with my username .
Small one is like 7" x 2" (thinking will cut this out and put in 5.25 bay...if I can ever figure out the RGB amp thing)



And laser guy did not mess up...so now I have above 3 as spares on the side....If I don't need it and my slightbox comes out good, I can make for someone else with STH10 case (for a fee of parts and labor ofcourse).



Bitspower Bulkhead in white.....I hate their customer service in taiwan...going nowhere:


But looks better than Alphacool one:


So on the RGB topic. And I am still learning this stuff...There are two kinds of RGB common cathode and common anode. Any regular RGB that you buy is common anode. Any regular RGB amp you buy is common anode. Ofcourse the RGB Illumination module from AQ is Common Cathode to make my life miserable.
So option is recycle all the RGB Illumination module and buy new common anode RGBs, and then get an AMP....Then the question would be (for 5.25 bay), will the strip work in series with reservoir RGB... So thats where I am .


----------



## cpachris

Do they not sell acrylic that is already etched in a checkerboard pattern? I thought I had seen it somewhere. How much did you have to pay to have it done?


----------



## Seanimus

$180 for 3 pieces... I didn't find any. The price includes like $50 of Laser guy learning what to do (setup charges).

Plus the acrylic is the original muderbox made by Evonik.
The Acrylic Cost:
1. ACRYLITE® truLED, sheet, White WH14 GT Thickness: 0.118 inch Length: 24.0000 inch Width: 24.0000 inch 25.80 USD 2 51.60 USD
2. ACRYLITE® GP (cell cast), sheet, Colorless 0F00 GT Thickness: 0.236 inch Length: 24.0000 inch Width: 24.0000 inch 35.84 USD 1 35.84 USD

FedEx Ground (residential): 8.28 USD
7.00% Tax:6.12 USD
Total: $101.84 USD

Cutting Cost was $80.

So cost so far is like $180 + $101.84 + $80 like $360.

Add the leds, frame, and CNC machine cost of UserName and cutouts for wires...Easily like $500.


----------



## Seanimus

Important update on AQ stuff.

AQ5 needs both 12V and 5V in molex connected
AQ D5 Pump is 12V only
AQ5 RGB output per AQ should not be overloaded with more than one RGB
Having said that and do this at your own risk.
RGB doesn't light up with this Amazon/Tatronics amp...since I think its only anode based type of RGB strips:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8183958373/

Made sure connections were fine with this setup :
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8183993576/

Overloaded the AQ5 LT ...which I can afford to blow or the RGB as they are not needed in build ...Cost to return would be 80% of the cost of purchase, so not worth it.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8183956141/

And it works with 2 RGB.

Unless someone needs me to really overload to 3 or 4 RGB....I am gonna stop here and call it a win.


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Yes I am aware of that. Few people have advised that I would need it in my system. AQ says its fine without AQ5 water block. I am only going to put the fan there if I need it....
> THe real problem in my earlier post, is the wiring coming from PSU to AQ5 and the way its going to look.


I see, I figured the wiring might be an issue, And from what I hear from Martin over at his review website they work really well.
As far as restriction, Martins test showed it has less restriction than the XSPC raystorm CPU block, and actually less than EVERY 2011 cpu block. So it cant be that bad.

I know you may not decide to go this route, but You can run a lot more off the controller at one time, as you can see in the review. Then again completely up to you









Can check it out here: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/12/20/ac-aquaero-5-review-guide-wip/10/
Hope this helps.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> I see, I figured the wiring might be an issue, And from what I hear from Martin over at his review website they work really well.
> As far as restriction, Martins test showed it has less restriction than the XSPC raystorm CPU block, and actually less than EVERY 2011 cpu block. So it cant be that bad.
> I know you may not decide to go this route, but You can run a lot more off the controller at one time, as you can see in the review. Then again completely up to you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can check it out here: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/12/20/ac-aquaero-5-review-guide-wip/10/
> Hope this helps.


Thanks for this information. If you don't mind some debate type of wordings...just so you understand where I am at this and the effort that was put in the emails and responses and decision..
The topic now is AQ5 Waterblock and going to put aside the PSU to AQ5 "power cabling" thing..

On the AQ5 Waterblock front...I have had numerous people tell me that I will have no choice but to use a AQ5 waterblock. My argument with them was that the draw is 0.9A per fan channel and a total of 1.8A per AQ5. I am not controlling the pumps with the AQ5 which is the traditional way and really don't want to open that discussion up again on Pumps and PA2's and all that fun stuff.

So assume for a moment that 1.8A per AQ5 is all i have.
I have one person show me screen shots of his Aquasuite where it reached 65 C with a mere 0.3A draw.
So that meant I am screwed and definitely need a AQ5 Waterblock.

So I went to AQ Support and they said 1.8A with 0.9A per channel is fine and just have some air ventilation.
This is where I am at the moment.

If I have to go to AQ5 Waterblock later in the build it will be a lot of rework.
If I do AQ5 Waterblock right now, I will have all these copper pipes running from one end to the other end and possibly when its not even required.
So catch 22 here....

I just flipped a coin and went by that -- which is wait and see what temperature readings are.


----------



## Bill Owen

I apologize about the switch plate, it was the one product I've ever had to outsource to another shop. It's been discontinued.


----------



## bmxer4l1fe

Any chance I can get a full front picture of the center compartment. I want to see the fitment of the reservoirs.

By the way, you inspired me to get my own STH10. Thanks for breaking my wallet = )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bill Owen*
> 
> I apologize about the switch plate, it was the one product I've ever had to outsource to another shop. It's been discontinued.


Hi Bill..No worries....We can call it even if you build me something like this.








With just 3x22 mm Vandal Switch cut outs evenly placed and with the vertical 4 vertical cut outs (similar to picture in url). The acrylic I have etched and can send to you. PM me if you can make this..and we can negotiate on payment.


----------



## Seanimus

Any recommendations on online backup providers (unlimited storage)? Most of them look shady


----------



## bern43

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Any recommendations on online backup providers (unlimited storage)? Most of them look shady


I've had good luck with Crashplan. It's unlimited and it's one of the more affordable options. Just takes a long time to do the initial backup. Nice build by the way.


----------



## cpachris

Cox Cable actually offers free unlimited online backup when you take their highest speed internet option. You're probably Time Warner up there though, right?


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks for this information. If you don't mind some debate type of wordings...just so you understand where I am at this and the effort that was put in the emails and responses and decision..
> The topic now is AQ5 Waterblock and going to put aside the PSU to AQ5 "power cabling" thing..
> On the AQ5 Waterblock front...I have had numerous people tell me that I will have no choice but to use a AQ5 waterblock. My argument with them was that the draw is 0.9A per fan channel and a total of 1.8A per AQ5. I am not controlling the pumps with the AQ5 which is the traditional way and really don't want to open that discussion up again on Pumps and PA2's and all that fun stuff.
> So assume for a moment that 1.8A per AQ5 is all i have.
> I have one person show me screen shots of his Aquasuite where it reached 65 C with a mere 0.3A draw.
> So that meant I am screwed and definitely need a AQ5 Waterblock.
> So I went to AQ Support and they said 1.8A with 0.9A per channel is fine and just have some air ventilation.
> This is where I am at the moment.
> If I have to go to AQ5 Waterblock later in the build it will be a lot of rework.
> If I do AQ5 Waterblock right now, I will have all these copper pipes running from one end to the other end and possibly when its not even required.
> So catch 22 here....
> I just flipped a coin and went by that -- which is wait and see what temperature readings are.


No problemo, Just wanted to make sure you were aware. Of course its all up to you, haha.
I shall continue reading as time goes on.


----------



## Seanimus

My cable provider (cablevision) discontinued Carbonite.
Found this link:
http://www.consumer-rankings.com/online-backup/
which ranks them.

I think some limit to one computer and only internal harddrives. I guess thats ok for my case, just need to check with their customer service, if they can transfer my profile over to new computer when its done (and I am sure they will say anythign to get you to subscribe).


----------



## Seanimus

Online Backup providers are more or less the samething with multiple sister companies. So ZipCloud is a sister company of MyPCBackup. Extra addons are 5GB per file upload for ISO's you may have for software, +20% faster upload speed (probably for first year) etc.
O well this thing will go on for days...
Reason I shifted focus is my existing computer had one of its Raid Ports go bad...I think its not the hard disk. The mobo is 5 years old, whereas the hardisk is 2 years old and I can see the hardisk in the bootup log at random times, just can't access during mounting (dismounted during chkdsk /f).

Alright back to this build now.
Ordered white rouge polishing compound and meguiars #17 then #10 plastic compounds to get the edges polished on the acrylic..It has to be crystal clear for the Slightbox and someone suggested that I use this approach. Trust the guy!


----------



## Seanimus

This cloud backup blows. For 1 TB i will be done in 1.5 Months running at 24 hours /day
Getting NAS . And setting it up as compressed.
Upload speed has also dropped dramatically...Cablevision probably auto throttling my connection down, due to useage.

Getting my money back is going to be a challenge from this cloud. Should have paid directly with Amex and not Paypal/Amex.
Then I could have just called Amex and they would take care of the whole thing.


----------



## hammerforged

Not sure how Im just now seeing this but Ill be here for the rest of it







Great work so far!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> This cloud backup blows. For 1 TB i will be done in 1.5 Months running at 24 hours /day
> Getting NAS . And setting it up as compressed.
> Upload speed has also dropped dramatically...Cablevision probably auto throttling my connection down, due to useage.
> Getting my money back is going to be a challenge from this cloud. Should have paid directly with Amex and not Paypal/Amex.
> Then I could have just called Amex and they would take care of the whole thing.


Yeah...that first backup takes awhile. I have about 1.8TB of stuff that took almost 6 weeks for the first backup. After that though...its only seconds per day.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Not sure how Im just now seeing this but Ill be here for the rest of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great work so far!


Welcome!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Yeah...that first backup takes awhile. I have about 1.8TB of stuff that took almost 6 weeks for the first backup. After that though...its only seconds per day.


Thanks man, i was about to give up on this cloud..have to call cablevision tomorrow and get an upgrade to increase upload to 8MBs currently 2MBs and behaving like 0.5MBs

So while i settled that this evening..back to sleeving and power to AQ5's and Vandal Switches:
In earlier post about shrinkless sleeving...use blue part of flame to burn the shrink, which melts the sleeve underneath....it doesn't charr then. Rip out the shrink, and if its not "well done" redo it. Watch Lutro0's videos to get a better description


Another correction from earlier post, you don't need to have sleeve melt above the first crimp point:


Doing a test run of the cables to make sure its tight and then only cut....Consumes a lot of time when you can not do everything in one shot. Used slightly bigger P Clips (not MDPC) for the 9 wires and then went MDPC for the 4 wires going down to AQ5:


Shot at PSU end:


From underneath; have to rearrange:


I have to take another shot of this soldering. But it will branch exactly at first AQ5 with 4 wires. Then again 1" further down to Vandal's, and last part will go straight to 2nd AQ5.


I realized, I never checked if covers fit with those P Clips, so checked and it was fine:


----------



## Seanimus

Vandal latching type switch- The led on it takes 12V? or should it be 5V? I hope I can do 12V, Then wiring would be less congested.

Upgraded internet connection for upload speed:


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Vandal latching type switch- The led on it takes 12V? or should it be 5V? I hope I can do 12V, Then wiring would be less congested.
> Upgraded internet connection for upload speed:


thats some fast internet









also OP and everyone else with a BMW, lets convince andrews2547 to buy a bmw instead of a merc









back on topic, to be honest i like this white-brown scheme a bit more.


----------



## cpachris

That's excellent upload speeds. Here's mine:


----------



## freitz

Mine Since we are on the subject


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> 
> Mine Since we are on the subject


fiber....I'm jealous. upload speeds are amazing.


----------



## superericla

I get around 100Mb/s upload and download through my college.


----------



## Seanimus

Spent whole day with family and got wife her birthday gift and got myself an upgrade aswell.

Went 2 tone on the iPhone 5's as well...haha.. Mixed up grey and black 3M Ghost Armor on the Black and White IPhone 5s:

Wife chose white I5, so I took black.
Wife wanted grey 3M , so I took black 3M
She finally agreed to swap sides and button 3M:


----------



## nyk20z3

That's a cracked screen waiting to happen lol


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Spent whole day with family and got wife her birthday gift and got myself an upgrade aswell.
> Went 2 tone on the iPhone 5's as well...haha.. Mixed up grey and black 3M Ghost Armor on the Black and White IPhone 5s:
> Wife chose white I5, so I took black.
> Wife wanted grey 3M , so I took black 3M
> She finally agreed to swap sides and button 3M:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How on earth did you cut them so perfect, certainly not by hand?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

This is what I get to deal with:



Don't complain about your speeds







haha, we pay like $150 for everything each month and we are *supposed* to be getting something way faster than what we're getting now.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> How on earth did you cut them so perfect, certainly not by hand?


There are these stalls in the mall called Ghost Armor. Its precut and $50 for full body shell (Colors are grey, black, blue, red, purple, blue, white, green). They show demonstrations of a drill machine going over the front screen protector (clear) without scratches. Not sure on high impact, like dropping from 12 feet on concrete (which is what a drunk would probably do), but it will withstand 4 feet on wooden floor.

Edit: You have to put screen protector at the stall. They run a liquid underneath the protector before drying it in a machine. And takes 24hrs for it to fully cure (bubbles/frosty look to come out).So for first day you can't put it in your jeans/pants/jacket. Have to carry it in a pouch.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> This is what I get to deal with:
> 
> Don't complain about your speeds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha, we pay like $150 for everything each month and we are *supposed* to be getting something way faster than what we're getting now.
> Jeffinslaw


Lol Jeffinslaw; i had similar before upgrade this morning...still waiting on SMD LEDs for SLightbox ...dont buy from that link, it comes from China and looks like Sandy still has effects on international mail to the US. My package from MDPC (Germany) is already one week overdue on regular mail. Never been this late.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Lol Jeffinslaw; i had similar before upgrade this morning...still waiting on SMD LEDs for SLightbox ...dont buy from that link, it comes from China and looks like Sandy still has effects on international mail to the US. My package from MDPC (Germany) is already one week overdue on regular mail. Never been this late.


Because of Sandy, I was somehow able to rent two of the same textbooks for myself because the first order didn't go through but apparently it did. Oh well, at least the lady was nice and is giving me a refund for one of them.

I'm not the one that pays for the interent in my house but I'm the one that uses it the most. It's horrible for online gaming and well online anything.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

Will finish this tomorrow..but a shot of current state. Power to first AQ done..
The red and white will just snake around the Vandals. While the brown (12V) and its corresponding white ("Ground") will daisy across vandals. to last MDPC Clip.


----------



## ballnuts

Loving this build, and learning a ton. Following your lead and going to the store today to get a space heater for my garage, as it's getting a bit chilly here in Dallas finally


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ballnuts*
> 
> Loving this build, and learning a ton. Following your lead and going to the store today to get a space heater for my garage, as it's getting a bit chilly here in Dallas finally


Thank you.

So right side of molex going to AQ5 was 12V (swaped from last nights picture above/earlier page). Which meant rearranging and now red is going to be before on the 4 pin, so the lengths are going to be off, and I am not going to get a perfect branching of wires.


Found that out while testing it. No wonder the LEDs on the Vandals were so dim, it had 5V going to in brown wire ....
Also found out middle white LED on Vandal is blown. Put a temporary white 16mm one.
God I have to switch this Vandal Switch bay.
Going to ask Jim Keating if they can make a tripe short 5.25 bay for these 3 units. Putting them in the case when wired is painful. No other choice, because power cable to AQ5 has to be put in before mounted.


Have to trim bottom wiring to second AQ5 by 1" to line up with others:


----------



## Seanimus

Decided to do some acrylic to switch things up a bit. Since I got the White Rouge Polishing compound and meguairs #17 and #10.

In the garage so I can see the mailguy come by (waiting for package from MDPC).
This is the cut on the smallest acrylic. Just going to do 2 sides and this has to get cut to fit into a 5.25 bay, if I ever get around to that.


Wet sanding, 60, 100, 220 and 600 and progression shots. Moved into the house at some point; was getting cold.





White rouge ...hard as a brick.


Beginning to see lines much a little bit more clearly:


The Meguiars:


Much better...but something went wrong...should have been clear.


If I take a shot from top its still a bit hazy. Thought it was because the other side was not done:


Redid the 3 steps starting from white rouge. But this time (google is your friend), added vegetable oil to the white polishing compound and voila:


And this time a shot from the top, you can barely notice its there in the shot..Only reason you see it, is because the other side is not done:


Another shot:


Its so clear that you can see the glue on the masking tape which is stuck on the other side.


----------



## Nutman

Nice polishing.


----------



## cpachris

Watching with interest since I want to do one of these myself.


----------



## Seanimus

MDPC package arrived and missing copper brown sata sleeving. BTW have 200 feet of white sleeving if anyone is interested in buying:


Redid the cabling to AQ5 + Vandal. Eliminated the +5V and its -/ground.


Also eliminated the third vandal switch; so now only 2. Will have to get smaller Female Spade connectors - 2.8mm is too big for the Vandal LED. Apparently the male spade connectors are different sizes on the Vandal switch. Go figure.


----------



## Fuganater

PM me about the sleeving.


----------



## netdevil

Those browns sleeving look great. I am sure you put them to good use seanimus







and just to share


----------



## Seanimus

Been testing various things around RGB and different settings. Had to do this before I design my Front bay for Vandal Switches.
Here is a single AQ RGB on far side of the acrylic:


Also found out the AQ RBG Illumination Module is much brighter with no diffused lens on the glass.
The regular RGBs you get are not that bright. Need to confirm this with a test.

Will post the white sleeving I have in 1 or 2 days - SATA + Family Pack


----------



## Seanimus

RGB Strip arrived, but cannot make it work with AQ5 RGB output + Tatronics Amp.








White LED with 6 LEDS per 5 CMS is now stuck in NC. Was stuck in NY for 2 weeks.










Conitnuing to look at options for 5.25 Vandal Switch Bay Mount..:
Single White Acrylic on top. Both photos below, enable me to have light concentrated on one side of the bay. Both of them I am thinking --the center focal point of light will *not* be seen with front aluminium plate for Vandal. Anyways, 75-80% of it will not be visible due to a aluminium plate on top for front 5.25 bay. Similar to this Lamptron Hummer Bay

Difference is one is 1 white acrylic and other is with 2 for more diffused look. Ofcourse the brightness and spread will change when I drill a hole for 5mm RGB LED. This is if I am going this route and not RGB Strip.




If I go this route with light moving all the way to other end and if I put another led on the other side then I am not sure I can have 2 Vandals in one bay. Probably just do 1 each.


Thoughts??


----------



## Seanimus

Did the 22" x 6 3/4" Acrylic piece. Same process...just found it harder to get Band Saw marks harder. And when it is such a large piece...yeah.
Windex sucks compared to Meguiar #17 on final clean process to get finger prints out:


Piece is so large doesn't fit in the view


White SMD LEDS 6 per 5 cms arriving tomorrow --- finally....All the way from china ... couldn't find them any other place.

Here is a shot with 1 AQ RGB Illumincation Module.., imagine with 100 SMD LEDS along the border...better be bright!!


Son fooling around with Panaroma feature in iPhone 5. What BS- its just a zoomed out picture and then cropped...you can tell when you see the raw data. Either that or my son is trying to trick me, as he got tired of taking a shot of picture with grid lines by moving the camera left to right:


----------



## Seanimus

And the last piece 14" x 2" to cover Motherboard Power, and Sata Cables coming in. This will have black acrylic over it with cut outs:


Anyone know good fonts that can be used on CNC machine for username? dont know if CNC machines take only graphics or if the software to control the machine has built in fonts.


----------



## Seanimus

Got tired of messing around with RGB. With all this time spent on researching and testing, i threw in the towel, accepted the loss of 8x AQ Illumination Modules, and going with traditional Anode based LEDs. With that approach I can get one of these custom AMPs made by Jeak in Germany and recommended by Shoggy in AQ:


Meanwhile still waiting for mail guy to get White LED Strip from china!!. Ordered on the 2nd. Came to NY on 10th (which is like 25 miles from my house). It then went to NC (300 miles south or so). Then to Teterboro (like 15 miles from house, and closer to NY). Took one big giant circle in the US. That package must be so beat up.









Decided to finish painting the fans on the radiator and eliminating the orange sleeve, Since orange is mostly getting purged from system.


Found some white sleeve on the floor (lol):


Sleeved white.


Copper brown fans almost done, will just give it one final light coat (all i can afford since can is almost empty). Red ones (primed with black) and first coat on. Next to heater in garage


Wife came home--already complaining about paint smell in the house







. Wasn't happy that I occupied the rug as well







:


----------



## Seanimus

Designing the 5.25 vandal bay in google sketchup. Need white acrylic at the back otherwise cables can be seen..Or i could mask it with Silver 2 sided tape/paint chrome


Need some simple artwork for the front that will look nice. Need cutouts to be atleast 10mm in some places to see grid lines on transparent acrylic. (like post #401).


----------



## Seanimus

Package from China arrived. They lied...its not 600 LED per 5M ..its 300 LED. Will inform Amazon about false advertisement.
Which makes me doubt this entry from NewEgg also; as when you go to checkout it says international delivery 5-15 days.

Connected the 3 per 5 cms led and it doesn't make a difference if its 3 or 6 ...The lines are *equally* bright. All this wait for no reason could have got this locally.


Grid Lines facing up with White plexi underneath:


Grid Lines facing down and with led running on right short side and long side closest to you:


Grid Lines facing down and with With led running on left and right short sides as well:


If I knew the lines were equally bright with 3 led / 5cms I could have gone with 5050 SMDs. The difference between 5050 SMDS and 3528 SMDS is the size of the chip on the strip. 5050 is 5mm x 5mm and the led is brighter.
So ordered this one to test and it ships from Florida








Building the lightbox frame will have to wait now for few days.


----------



## Seanimus

Ready to test fans on AQ5's and make sure connections are working:
Both sides are maroon red and copper brown140 mm fans and its respective sleeving going to AQ5's. Copper Brown AQ5 will have fans with copper brown sleeving and white. Maroon AQ5 will have the marron and dark grey sleeved fans.


Tested one:


And both...It looks beautiful, I must say...photograph doesn't do it justice:


----------



## cpachris

Spectacularly complimentary colors!


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Spectacularly complimentary colors!


Thanks cpachris









Ordered these round M3 standoffs for future custom 5.25 vandal bay in post #403...if I ever find a CNC shop around. These will hold the acrylic pieces in place.
Shoggy also shipped some matching M3 bolts for front which will match the AQ5's.


----------



## mandrix

Very nice build. Somehow this fell off my radar, but I'm subscribed now and will catch up reading the posts. Great pics and detail.

Did you find a source for the AQ5 power connectors in US or order them from Aquacomputer? I couldn't find any stateside vendor that stocked them.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Did you find a source for the AQ5 power connectors in US or order them from Aquacomputer? I couldn't find any stateside vendor that stocked them.


Welcome Mandrix!
Not sure which power connectors you are referencing..The cabling in the following picture is something I built. In fact, all the cabling going to AQ5's and coming out of AQ5's are currently being custom built: Power, Radiator Fans, PWM fans, Aquabus and USB. Possibly RGB as well, as I may be getting unwired RGB's.


----------



## Seanimus

With Aluminium foil under it. Its brighter....


Now light reaches to the top. Since I can't cancel the 5050 smd order i will just try it with that when it arrives. And then proceed to building the frame:


Should I just paint the underside of the white acrylic at bottom with Chrome Metal finish? Don't know if paint will stick to Acrylic nicely or not?


----------



## sebkow

Love your build! Mine is similar to yours


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> Love your build! Mine is similar to yours


Thanks. Is that your build log "Eagle has landed" ? I see one similar thing so far which is the STH10 case. Which I would return in a heart beat and get the double wide. Not easy working in tight space with 5.25 bays in middle compartment. Rest is spacious.


----------



## sebkow

Yes its in the works in process i got the case about a month ago and trying different spray paints. What did you do? Im trying to do a matte white and matte red look. So far its not looking to good


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> Yes its in the works in process i got the case about a month ago and trying different spray paints. What did you do? Im trying to do a matte white and matte red look. So far its not looking to good


What was the original color from CaseLabs? If its Matte white, I wouldn't touch that. If not, you have to sand it down , prime, and then spray paint. CaseLabs original paint is powder coat. Very difficult to paint over and if you scratch that due to friction from a power tool, you will get a black blemish and it will not come out. It gets worse the harder you try to clean.

See the PSU painting that I did, which was also on powder coat. First few times was not as good as when it was totally sanded down to the bare metal. Also paint make is important. You have to get Krylon or better like Dupli-Color (they have same parent company I think).
Post a picture in your thread of original case and the way it looks now; and I can try to help you there. There is another thread HanoverFist [Electric Orange] where he is painting everythign orange and looks very nice. He would know more about painting outside of cases more than I (large surfaces are harder).

When I am done with all the placements, I have to take the center compartment wall (take out all the rubber from motherboard tray slider) and get it sandblasted in a local shop to remove all the paint. At that point I will be painting it a metal color - I don't know which one as yet.


----------



## Seanimus

Power to AQ5 is perfect now. Redid that 3 times:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8219445774/

However I have to redo the fan wires to AQ5's. f...ck
Red and black are too short..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8219441936/
And copper brown and white are way too long:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8219442732/

Have different firmware on AQ5's:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8219444804/

Also broke the clip that holds the brown sleeved fans in place on AQ5. Its fine; since the pins are so tight it's not going to slip off unless i yank it.

Intake fans to radiator*s* and i am guessing the temperature there is for the chip on AQ5 controlling the fans. Dont know why red intake fan RPM is higher than others.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8218358137/

Outtake fans from radiators .
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8218357311/

That thing has been running for an hour and its max temp so far is 38 degrees and its sitting there. Jumped by 3 degrees in 1 hour.

A little wind mill this thing is







:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8218360259/


----------



## sebkow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> What was the original color from CaseLabs? If its Matte white, I wouldn't touch that. If not, you have to sand it down , prime, and then spray paint. CaseLabs original paint is powder coat. Very difficult to paint over and if you scratch that due to friction from a power tool, you will get a black blemish and it will not come out. It gets worse the harder you try to clean.
> See the PSU painting that I did, which was also on powder coat. First few times was not as good as when it was totally sanded down to the bare metal. Also paint make is important. You have to get Krylon or better like Dupli-Color (they have same parent company I think).
> Post a picture in your thread of original case and the way it looks now; and I can try to help you there. There is another thread HanoverFist [Electric Orange] where he is painting everythign orange and looks very nice. He would know more about painting outside of cases more than I (large surfaces are harder).
> When I am done with all the placements, I have to take the center compartment wall (take out all the rubber from motherboard tray slider) and get it sandblasted in a local shop to remove all the paint. At that point I will be painting it a metal color - I don't know which one as yet.


Alright thanks once i get a proper camera ill take some pictures and message you them.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Welcome Mandrix!
> Not sure which power connectors you are referencing..The cabling in the following picture is something I built. In fact, all the cabling going to AQ5's and coming out of AQ5's are currently being custom built: Power, Radiator Fans, PWM fans, Aquabus and USB. Possibly RGB as well, as I may be getting unwired RGB's.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I was under the impression you were using the power outputs on the AQ5's? those are the two 15kHz two pin ouputs. What I was wondering is if you are using them if you bought the actual 2 pin connectors from Aquacomputer or if you found any here in the States?


----------



## Seanimus

Hi Mandrix, No I am not using them. Sorry I didn't follow your original question.
Its very simple design layout. Even though the following looks complex. The goal was to keep power consumption at a bare minimum.

Fan 2, 3 for each Radiator.
PWM for case Fans.
Aquabus, USB for information/updates.
RGB output going to AMP and then 4xparallel for Reservoir and Front Bay.
Only using the ones highlighted in red.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8218613571/


----------



## Hanoverfist

Just Browsed your Build.. Nice Work .. Love those cases..







.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Just Browsed your Build.. Nice Work .. Love those cases..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Welcome!. If one is utilizing bays in the center compartment, this case is not that great. Their smaller line is also not suitable and this is my opinion. If any case from CaseLabs my recommendation would be to get the double wide like Magnum TH10. Alternate would be MountainMods Ascension line. It is so difficult to work with cable connections to a complex devices like AQ5 in STH10 in middle compartment.

Fixed the cable length issues by swapping the bays. That was easy!:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8218817201/

Broke another fan header clip on the AQ5. I really need to learn how to remove fan headers from the AQ5 with lock mechanism. Luckily same AQ5 lower one. Must be the angle that i am going at it in the STH10 ..lower the AQ5 harder it is..(and I am sitting on the floor ..lol)

Have to swap the front plates...but again the red intake fans (currently going to copper brown face plate); is higher RPM.
If the RPM signal was shorted with another fan I would think the RPM would keep changing? Have to dismantle and figure this out. Could also be that the fan which has RPM connected is just faulty?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8219896784/


----------



## Seanimus

So my son is rushing me to get the computer finished so he can play Sonic Generations on the PC. Just paid $7.50 for Steam version - special for few days more.
He won a "cookie" in this guys PC custom mod for Sonic Generations 



...His username is PingasWarfare and in Top Comment expand to see his response.
Another gamer in the family.

"
You used one of those rotation wheels from the 2d sections right?﻿ That's the only way I can think it was possible.
*Stick162* 3 hours ago

You're close, but not correct. There's﻿ something else.
*samothethief* in reply to Stick162(Show the comment) 3 hours ago

My﻿ guess is that you put the Sky Santuary rotating platforms, adjusted it vertically, attached platforms and coated it with spikes.
*PingasWarfare* in reply to samothethief 2 hours ago 12

Have﻿ your cookie.
*samothethief* in reply to PingasWarfare 2 hours ago 17

"


----------



## mandrix

So you are breaking those little plastic 3 pin clips on the actual fan headers of the AQ5? I've never had any problems with those, although I have pulled them out a ways and had to reseat them. Must be the angle you are pulling on the wire, best to pull it straight out if you can.
I know how difficult it is to access the headers after you get everything hooked up, however.

For your fans displaying different rpm's, yes I agree you should just try a different fan in the group for rpm pickup and see if that helps. Could be you have a minimal rpm wire connection somewhere, though.
There seems to be some variables between fans that matching exact rpm or even real close between groups is hit or miss. I notice this in the amount of voltage it takes to drive two different sets of fans to the same aprox. rpm.


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks Mandrix.
What is a good way to find exact location to drill holes in the lightbox for tubing/pipes to pass through. Connect using Tygon tubing without lightbox and see where it lands approximately? Anything easier?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks Mandrix.
> What is a good way to find exact location to drill holes in the lightbox for tubing/pipes to pass through. Connect using Tygon tubing without lightbox and see where it lands approximately? Anything easier?


Get out the tape measure and take a bunch of measurements from fixed positions (i.e. edge of case, front, etc). That is if you have confidence in your measuring skills and don't want to disassemble anything.
If you have any doubts that you can get accurate measurements, then yes take it apart and line everything up, place some painters tape down with the exact location marked on it. The painters tape won't muck anything up and comes up easily.
I always keep a small metal rule handy with both mm and inches readings.


----------



## Seanimus

Got tired of working on the floor , put it back on pedestal and placed motherboard with cpu water block.
Hmm i think i have to paint the chrome finish on the cpu water block..will come back to that later:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8223041692/

Have to place the front intake fan here. Higher will not be good..and lower will not reach right pump:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8223040892/

So working backwards; front would like something like this. Top empty bay is the vandal switch , and second empty bay- have to figure out what to do.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8221965981/

Also in above, dont know if I should have a second intake fan...still thinking. Thoughts welcome!

After curing those copper fans seem to be getting a really good tone:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8223039336/


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*


Looking amazing. All the wiring so far is sooooo clean. Can't wait to see a shot like this with the 24pin and GPU wiring also. Keep it up! Plus...tell Mountain Girl we miss her.


----------



## Seanimus

Will see her tomorrow; today was in different office location. And its ForestGirl .. but close..

For 24pin ...have something in mind -- one would only see 0.5" of shrinkless sleeving going to 24pin-nothing more (atleast that is the plan)
GPU can't avoid a lot; but I will make it bare minimum.

But the grand thing will be the back of the motherboard tray. If I get that all nice and neat- the front is assumed to be nice .


----------



## cpachris

See! It's been so long I forgot her name!


----------



## Seanimus

I'll see if she is happy enough to post....I think she still needs her roof fixed.


----------



## mandrix

Those fans in the post above.....can you verify the paint is the Krylon (for plastic) copper brown? Thanks!


----------



## Seanimus

No its not Krylon. Krylon cannot have that effect after curing. The red is Krylon Burgundy Matte. and requires black primer to get that effect.
Krylon for Plastic called Fusion is good but I haven't used them. My son uses Fusion for his game boys Orange and Black fusion and he likes it.


----------



## ForestGirl111

Build is coming along mighty nice, Seanimus - Looks amazing. Nice and clean.









Still no roof. So many people needs repairs that the waiting list is until February (unless you're willing to pay a very high price for quick service). I've got a nice tarp that is getting snowed on right now - 4 inches. I haven't bothered turning my heat higher then 40 degrees since it all just escapes, so I keep the pipes from freezing and bundle up. I'm just so glad to have running water honestly!

Hope the trip to NYC was still awesome cpachris


----------



## Seanimus

Found ForestGirl earlier ...don't have my Canon T4i but iPad will do for today:


----------



## ForestGirl111

+1 rep for Seanimus

I just can't get over how great it looks.


----------



## cpachris

Ahhhhh. Got my FG fix in for the day. Thank you. +rep for every day you post a FG pic.









Ms Forest......the NYC trip was still awesome. Midtown Manhattan wasn't really impacted much...never lost power. Saw The Heiress, and The Lion King. Lower Manhattan was getting power back the day we got there, so we spent some time in Chinatown and Little Italy. Saw some loooonnngggg gas lines...especially up in Harlem. It's surprising that your wait time will be that long for roofing. I'm in the insurance biz and I see the roofers flock to our state after a tornado storm hits. Good luck and stay warm.


----------



## ForestGirl111

Not me - I meant the computer.
Ha!!!


----------



## ForestGirl111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Ms Forest......the NYC trip was still awesome. Midtown Manhattan wasn't really impacted much...never lost power. Saw The Heiress, and The Lion King. Lower Manhattan was getting power back the day we got there, so we spent some time in Chinatown and Little Italy. Saw some loooonnngggg gas lines...especially up in Harlem. It's surprising that your wait time will be that long for roofing. I'm in the insurance biz and I see the roofers flock to our state after a tornado storm hits. Good luck and stay warm.


So glad the trip was still good! You are right about those gas lines - 7 to 10 hour wait! I am glad I filled up before the storm.
People in certain trades really do flock to states that have storms. There are many tree service companies that are staying in the local hotels. One guy I talked to came from Michigan and is booked with work until January already. My roofer is insured and local and I need a whole new roof sadly so it's a big job. I live in a house from 1880 and he has been working on this place for many years so I want him to do the work. Looks like I'll have to be patient. Gives me time to put in some extra hours at work and make a few more bucks.

Oh and I'll be sure to be on the lookout for Seanimus tomorrow with his camera


----------



## Seanimus

I decided to go with 2 intake fans in middle compartment. Well 2.1 if you count the hardisk partial intake fan.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8226031584/

Top red one for right reservoir...just to keep the same theme/concept.
Copper brown for left reservoir-- They match the D5 Pump Metal bracket (under the reservoir adapter) which you cannot see.

1 exhaust near mobo. Pretty standard:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8224958131/

Not going to use this 2nd exhaust above GPU. I don't think i need it, since it open ventilation to top compartment.
If anyone thinks I need 2nd exhaust here or to the left...please do tell with reason.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8224957597/

I'll use something similar to following PWM cable for 3 intake fans (1 hardisk top compartment , 2 middle compartment). The right most male header will go to Brown AQ5
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8224960591/

The mobo PWM fan will go straight to Red AQ5.

Front will now look like this:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8226047266/

Looks better?

Edit: Why is default now "Import Images" and how do I change it in OCN?


----------



## Nacious

Great looking build, love the color scheme, and amazing wire management


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Edit: Why is default now "Import Images" and how do I change it in OCN?


OCN will download the images you link and host them on their own servers. This not only prevents them from being taken down by an external service (i.e. Photobucket because you go over on bandwidth) but also allows the Thread Gallery View to include that image. This is very helpful when you're looking through a thread and just want to see photos!

Regarding turning it off by default, I'm not sure if this can be done.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*
> 
> OCN will download the images you link and host them on their own servers. This not only prevents them from being taken down by an external service (i.e. Photobucket because you go over on bandwidth) but also allows the Thread Gallery View to include that image. This is very helpful when you're looking through a thread and just want to see photos!
> Regarding turning it off by default, I'm not sure if this can be done.


Nice feature. So if I want my entire post pictures to be stored on OCN servers, I have to click Edit on each post and resubmit?

meanwhile...Front Vandal Plate design:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8229101046/

Clear Acrylic and White same cutouts:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8228034489/

Combined front:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8228034395/

Combined back:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8229101128/


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

I think that may be the best way to do it, unfortunately! I'm pretty sure it was not applied retroactively.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*
> 
> I think that may be the best way to do it, unfortunately! I'm pretty sure it was not applied retroactively.


Thanks for response. Its not applied retroactively.
Edit: If you resubmit an earlier post it will transfer pictures to gallery.


----------



## Seanimus

Top View:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8229173034/

Standoff to be used to hold acrylic in place. Still waiting on M3 matching screws/bolts from Shoggy/AQ
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8229163380/

Got 10mm as well. Most probably using this one...Just incase its 8mm too short...have to account for bolts going in a bit:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8229186542/


----------



## Seanimus

Since cpachris needs his FG fix.
FG and her best friend at work-MrAwesome111:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8230489712/


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Since cpachris needs his FG fix.


Mmmmmmmm. Such a cutie. + rep for you.


----------



## Mr Awesome111

Sorry cpachris, this is why i'm mr awesome


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Awesome111*
> 
> Sorry cpachris, this is why i'm mr awesome


No arguments there my friend. FG is coated with awesome sauce.


----------



## Seanimus

5050 SMD White Lights arrived in few days..better than waiting a month for those fake ones that shipped from China.

Now 5050 , The white acrylic looks better now with more light. Brightness around is the same. Interesting. Anyways I like the 5050 better.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8231483090/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8230419661/

Reference, 3528 below from earlier post:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8218273832/

So all parts finalized now. Tommorrow I can build the frame


----------



## HiTekJeff

Can you tell me where you got the white case lighting from? I am building a system and would like to use something like that. What parts did you use, is it a full kit with on/off switch, etc. or did you get separate parts for that? I was wanting something nice, but easy to install, like a PCI bracket with the controls or such.

If you want, you can send me a PM as well. Thanks.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

I will be interested to see how you make the housing. That is what's holding up my light panel. I think I have figured out a solution but I need to have the pieces sand blasted first.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> Can you tell me where you got the white case lighting from? I am building a system and would like to use something like that. What parts did you use, is it a full kit with on/off switch, etc. or did you get separate parts for that? I was wanting something nice, but easy to install, like a PCI bracket with the controls or such.
> If you want, you can send me a PM as well. Thanks.


There are so many pages that show how to build the slightbox- just scroll back and read.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I will be interested to see how you make the housing. That is what's holding up my light panel. I think I have figured out a solution but I need to have the pieces sand blasted first.
> Jeffinslaw


Can you post a picture here? I do not understand why are you sand blasting anything. Just planning on having a 3 side U channel frame with the 4th side open and no LEDs on the open side.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Can you post a picture here? I do not understand why are you sand blasting anything. Just planning on having a 3 side U channel frame with the 4th side open and no LEDs on the open side.


I'm having all of the metal in my build powder coated and the aluminum U-channel will have the same fate. However, you need to have the pieces sand-blasted before you can use JBWeld on them. The only solution I have come up with for attaching the pieces of U-channel together is to use JBWeld.

Make sense?









Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I'm having all of the metal in my build powder coated and the aluminum U-channel will have the same fate. However, you need to have the pieces sand-blasted before you can use JBWeld on them. The only solution I have come up with for attaching the pieces of U-channel together is to use JBWeld.
> Make sense?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


I am not using JBWeld between frame and STH10..they will have M3 bolts going through them with 2 mm nylon spacer under the lightbox and STH10. (for the horizontal one shown in the pitcure). The M3 bolt will go through the STH10 bottom compartment plate.
The vertical ligthbox (not shown) will have like a 10mm -15mm nylon spacer. But again M3 bolt going through the Slightbox Frame and acrylic at the same time.

The reason you need it separate..is because LEDs can burn out and you should be able to dismantle the whole thing. On top of that, for me the horizontal one will have bulk heads for piping to go through .

I am not sure about using JBweld for the corners of the frame to hold that in place (by iteself) at this time. I may have to...but not known as yet.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> I am not using JBWeld at all..they will have M3 bolts going through them with 2 mm nylon spacer under the lightbox and STH10. (for the horizontal one shown in the pitcure). The M3 bolt will go through the STH10 bottom compartment plate.
> The vertical ligthbox (not shown) will have like a 10mm -15mm nylon spacer. But again M3 bolt going through the Slightbox Frame and acrylic at the same time.
> The reason you need it separate..is because LEDs can burn out and you should be able to dismantle the whole thing. On top of that, for me the horizontal one will have bulk heads for piping to go through .


Interesting... I will be paying close attention to how this will be achieved. As for mine, I will be making a big U out of my U-channel that I can slide the acrylic pieces in and out of to change the LEDs if necessary.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Interesting... I will be paying close attention to how this will be achieved. As for mine, I will be making a big U out of my U-channel that I can slide the acrylic pieces in and out of to change the LEDs if necessary.
> Jeffinslaw


I did edit my earlier response. But yeah--exactly...do the U with the U...is what I was thinking...If it will bend in the right place.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> I did edit my earlier response. But yeah--exactly...do the U with the U...is what I was thinking...If it will bend in the right place.


I wonder what FG thinks about?


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I wonder what FG thinks about?


Focus on the build...


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Interesting... I will be paying close attention to how this will be achieved. As for mine, I will be making a big U out of my U-channel that I can slide the acrylic pieces in and out of to change the LEDs if necessary.
> Jeffinslaw


Are you planning to have your strip led on one side or multiple?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Are you planning to have your strip led on one side or multiple?


I tested out mine last night and it looks like I will have to figure out how to do LEDs on both sides. Mine is about 7 inches wide and the light from the LEDs doesn't move very far. It worked better when I put tin foil (nice idea from you!) but I don't think the tin foil was reflective enough so I'm going to get a piece of mirrored acrylic to put as the bottom.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## itskerby

Finally got to read the entire log on this one, definitely a high class build.

Really like the copper and brown colors, end result is classy as hell.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I tested out mine last night and it looks like I will have to figure out how to do LEDs on both sides. Mine is about 7 inches wide and the light from the LEDs doesn't move very far. It worked better when I put tin foil (nice idea from you!) but I don't think the tin foil was reflective enough so I'm going to get a piece of mirrored acrylic to put as the bottom.
> Jeffinslaw


Tin foil should not be used to achieve the goal of light reaching other end. That is to make the whole thing look brighter.
Only two reasons I can think of is that - the laser etching is not 0.5mm deep OR your edges or not polished (mirror looking). .
Test following way:
If you test without any white acrylic, without tin foil and ONLY the clear etched acrylic...all squares should light up (LED Strip on the long side only). Face Etched side upwards or down it doesn't matter.
I posted a picture of that earlier. Thats the first check point.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itskerby*
> 
> Finally got to read the entire log on this one, definitely a high class build.
> Really like the copper and brown colors, end result is classy as hell.


Thank you. Its fun when you play with multiple colors. Its a lot of trial and error on color matching, and redoing a single cable took me days (multiple devices)


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Tin foil should not be used to achieve the goal of light reaching other end. That is to make the whole thing look brighter.
> Only two reasons I can think of is that - the laser etching is not 0.5mm deep OR your edges or not polished (mirror looking). .
> Test following way:
> If you test without any white acrylic, without tin foil and ONLY the clear etched acrylic...all squares should light up (LED Strip on the long side only). Face Etched side upwards or down it doesn't matter.
> I posted a picture of that earlier. Thats the first check point.


I should probably polish the acrylic... I used the tin foil to try and get more reflection of the light to see if that would help the light shine all the way through.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I should probably polish the acrylic... I used the tin foil to try and get more reflection of the light to see if that would help the light shine all the way through.
> Jeffinslaw


Please use wet the sand paper. I was told that 60 Grit was too strong and I should have started with 220 Grit. But when you wet it, and because mine was cut with a band saw, I had to use 60 Grit, then 120, 220, 440 and I stopped at 600. Supposed to go higher than that upto 2000.
You need the white rouge (if you can pick up from local store), the rest of the guide (earlier in post on meguiar) is for that extra finish.

By the way, I have to use JB WEld on the frame only ...couldn't find a way a around it for the corners where the U's meet.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Please use wet the sand paper. I was told that 60 Grit was too strong and I should have started with 220 Grit. But when you wet it, and because mine was cut with a band saw, I had to use 60 Grit, then 120, 220, 440 and I stopped at 600. Supposed to go higher than that upto 2000.
> You need the white rouge (if you can pick up from local store), the rest of the guide (earlier in post on meguiar) is for that extra finish.
> By the way, I have to use JB WEld on the frame only ...couldn't find a way a around it for the corners where the U's meet.


Yah, thanks for the tips! Good luck with your light panel!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## racefreak2012

Giving Seanimus rep for the excellent info on the AQ's. He's also helped me with a few decisions over PM. Thanks and good luck with the rest of the build. That's a lot of skill and patience.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *racefreak2012*
> 
> Giving Seanimus rep for the excellent info on the AQ's. He's also helped me with a few decisions over PM. Thanks and good luck with the rest of the build. That's a lot of skill and patience.


Thanks race freak . Enjoy double wide case labs.

Ok so I blew 2 pwm fans last night. Don't know how really but I double checked this morning and they are dead ( connected to 12v) bypassing aq5 control.

Only thing I can think of and I cannot test now because I might blow another. Is that you need to set to pwm control on aq5 before connecting the Fans.

Severe set back as now I have to redo the hardisk cage fan sleeving and start from there


----------



## Yukss

such a beauty machine... great work.. keep going..


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> such a beauty machine... great work.. keep going..


Thank you sir
Went out for lunch , got over the 2 fans. Had a spare and just have to swap out painted blades. Redoing wiring shortly


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Well I think the different polishing compounds is going to be too expensive for me to buy for just one piece of acrylic. I'm going to look at different alternatives at a more affordable price.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Well I think the different polishing compounds is going to be too expensive for me to buy for just one piece of acrylic. I'm going to look at different alternatives at a more affordable price.
> Jeffinslaw


Sand Paper from home depot -- $4 per Grit type for 5 different grit types-- $20
1 lb. White Diamond Rouge Polishing Compound $4.48
Meguiar's #10 and #17 Plastic Polish & Cleaner $22.76

One more thing..to see if the lines etched are correct. You can try to take a acrylic knife and scribe on just one line with ruler...just a few gentle runs...and see if its the laser etching that is a problem. Connect the lights and see if that line is brighter than the rest.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Oh okay, well I guess that isn't that bad of price for stuff.

I'll go ahead and purchase that stuff tomorrow. I'll test out your method today when I post some pictures. I'm sure the acrylic is fine though.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

To save money skip the meguiars for now. It's separate shipping anyways.


----------



## Seanimus

Consoling myself that the fans blowing up was actually good :S
I had a 12 V line in the Vandal switch bay. So there was no need to go behind the motherboard -- just making a mess there.
I think originally i thought I would do that because PSU and that one Peripheral 1 line is getting over used...2 AQ5's Vandal and now 3 PWMs. I think it can handle it. :dunno

I am just going with the fact that it can handle it...since I already tested it. Kind of..lol..

So if i run the cables as follows on left side...(a) it will get to congested with power going to AQ5's and (b) have to alter the stickers on the fan to face correctly.
Blue wires in the middle are the control wires. Green is RPM.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8235522485/

If I run it this way it would be good:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8236588268/


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> To save money skip the meguiars for now. It's separate shipping anyways.


Okay, I will just get the bar of stuff.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/ryobi-4-oz-white-rouge-buffing-compound-a01ag092.html
You can get that Home Depot as well


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/buy/ryobi-4-oz-white-rouge-buffing-compound-a01ag092.html
> You can get that Home Depot as well


Sweet!! Here are some pictures of my light panel:










So that shows that the light panel is fully lit up, it looks great.

Here is a close up:










So it looks like everything is lighting up excellently, I just need to get the light to be diffused better. Hopefully a piece of mirror acrylic will do the trick. Your computer is looking great by the way!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## cpachris

Jeff....that part looks great! Are you going to put a piece of white acrylic on top?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Jeff....that part looks great! Are you going to put a piece of white acrylic on top?


I will answer your question with a picture:



















Jeffinslaw


----------



## cpachris

That diffuses it pretty well! Are you looking for more?

I don't know if you have any other color acrylic...but if you do, can you put a different color on top and see how well it still lights up? I've been thinking about either a dark red...or maybe have primarily white with an inlay of a different color.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> That diffuses it pretty well! Are you looking for more?
> I don't know if you have any other color acrylic...but if you do, can you put a different color on top and see how well it still lights up? I've been thinking about either a dark red...or maybe have primarily white with an inlay of a different color.


For your build, I would suggest doing something like this:



Here's the *link* to that build log. It's a channel in his light panel for water to flow through!

I don't have any other pieces laying around to check, sorry









Thanks for the comment though! Sorry to hijack your thread seanimus









Jeffinslaw

*EDIT* I am actually quite impressed with this picture:


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Thanks for the comment though! Sorry to hijack your thread seanimus


Feel free to do so. Cpachris does his travel plans here - heh- jk cpachris.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Sweet!! Here are some pictures of my light panel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that shows that the light panel is fully lit up, it looks great.
> Here is a close up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it looks like everything is lighting up excellently, I just need to get the light to be diffused better. Hopefully a piece of mirror acrylic will do the trick. Your computer is looking great by the way!
> Jeffinslaw










good job

Whats the mirrored acrylic you getting? You mentioned it twice, and I haven't seen one. well i didn't even google it ...still drinking coffee and researching something else.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> That diffuses it pretty well! Are you looking for more?
> I don't know if you have any other color acrylic...but if you do, can you put a different color on top and see how well it still lights up? I've been thinking about either a dark red...or maybe have primarily white with an inlay of a different color.


Well Murderbox is doing new stuff....I can't follow what he is doing- but all kinds of fancy stuff with black acrylic and getting mirror effect going; where the motherboard reflects from the acrylic ..pretty fancy.
Not much details on how he is actually doing it..questions are there..but not answers.
And don't put Red or green acrylic...It will look like that build where he got many responses to get the green CCFL out.
You can mix it up though. Cut white acrylic in pieces and have a few strips of red..!!

I worked on this cable (PWM for fans) for 4 hours straight. Must of redone it like 3 times.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8238320818/

The power molex at the end I dont like. If I connect that to adapter next to it (which has two leads coming out for Vandal switches.
And then connect to main power line that is running thru left side of case...it will look this long. and this is fugly.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8238320200/

Convenient to plug and unplug , but there must be something that is more amicable.

This one is too small...can't get 18AWG crimped with insulation from one side....and other side, no way i can get 3 - 26AWG crimped:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8237285603/

Thoughts!!!


----------



## modnoob

Subbed


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *modnoob*
> 
> Subbed


Thanks !!

Looking good..
One more fan remaining- and used 3M for back of fans.
Used heat gun on 3m to make it hug the fan...I like that effect, even though the contours show.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8239441090/


----------



## Jeffinslaw

I will be getting a piece of mirrored acrylic form tapplastics.com and that will take the place of the bottom piece of white acrylic so I can get more light reflected up.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I will be getting a piece of mirrored acrylic form tapplastics.com and that will take the place of the bottom piece of white acrylic so I can get more light reflected up.
> Jeffinslaw


Please post picture here when you have it done. I'll hold off drilling any holes on slightbox till I see yours. Guessing not more than 10% brighter. But testing is everything.

So 15 fans connected to AQ5's. 6 SATA devices. And this is the only cable you will be seeing. Lesser once P clips are in place (have to drill some holes.
That leaves USB, Aquabus and RGB left. 3 more cables per AQ device.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8239188507/


----------



## waslakhani

subbed


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Please post picture here when you have it done. I'll hold off drilling any holes on slightbox till I see yours. Guessing not more than 10% brighter. But testing is everything.
> So 15 fans connected to AQ5's. 6 SATA devices. And this is the only cable you will be seeing. Lesser once P clips are in place (have to drill some holes.
> That leaves USB, Aquabus and RGB left. 3 more cables per AQ device.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8239188507/


Are you planning on sleeving those cables?


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waslakhani*
> 
> subbed


Welcome
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Are you planning on sleeving those cables?


Sata - no...looks better without.

So back of case now ..
L shape tape is where the RGB Amp will go (reminds me I have to email Jeak from Germany on status).
Straight tape is where the USB hub will go.
Brown and Red electrical tape. Brown looks like black in shot ... sigh..
Have to take out that velcro (top right and that is black) and move it one of the two straight tapes.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8239459327/

So this Akasa Card reader is 3.0...lol. With these connections:
Don't tell me I have to run the cable outside the case into the back of the computer...








http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8240524158/


----------



## Seanimus

Not an AQ diehard...but really not sure what all the hype is about AQ5's not handling load...
Doing fine with VRM's imo...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8240685694/

And all it got was air hitting HD's here and moving down a bit and air hitting reservoirs now:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8239618925/


----------



## Fuganater

Were the blown fans on the same channel of the AQ?


----------



## n0n44m

turn those fan speeds down to ~40% in order to really stress the AQ VRM







will probably still be fine though

I got a small 80 mm PWM fan to cool my AQ, but to be honest it seems pretty overkill with 3 YL 140 on Ch1, 6 of those on Ch3, and 1 intake fan on Ch2... It idles at 600 rpm and is set to keep to VRM temps below 60 (whereas the actual limit is 75...), so it basically only ever speeds up during summer. If I could reach it easily I'd unplug it to see what the temperatures would be without it running.

great job on those cables by the way


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> The power molex at the end I dont like. If I connect that to adapter next to it (which has two leads coming out for Vandal switches.
> And then connect to main power line that is running thru left side of case...it will look this long. and this is fugly.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8238320200/
> Convenient to plug and unplug , but there must be something that is more amicable.
> 
> Thoughts!!!


If you want to eliminate the middle connector you can run 2x12v & 2xgrounds in your 4 pin molex. Will mean extra wire, but it will get rid of the middle connector.
Or wire up so all your connectors are behind the side panel.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Were the blown fans on the same channel of the AQ?


Yes same AQ5. But the PWM channel. Still don't understand why 1 blew and other 2 did not.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n0n44m*
> 
> turn those fan speeds down to ~40% in order to really stress the AQ VRM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will probably still be fine though
> I got a small 80 mm PWM fan to cool my AQ, but to be honest it seems pretty overkill with 3 YL 140 on Ch1, 6 of those on Ch3, and 1 intake fan on Ch2... It idles at 600 rpm and is set to keep to VRM temps below 60 (whereas the actual limit is 75...), so it basically only ever speeds up during summer. If I could reach it easily I'd unplug it to see what the temperatures would be without it running.
> great job on those cables by the way


Thanks. Few pages back there is a shot with no intake fans from front with 12 rad fans. It was 34.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> If you want to eliminate the middle connector you can run 2x12v & 2xgrounds in your 4 pin molex. Will mean extra wire, but it will get rid of the middle connector.
> Or wire up so all your connectors are behind the side panel.


Going to use a 3 pin fan connector instead of the 4 pin molex.
If anyone knows where I can get a 2 pin fan connector (male/female) in the US...let me know. I have seen it on ModDIY...but that ships from HongKong.


----------



## SLADEizGOD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> This is what I get to deal with:
> 
> Don't complain about your speeds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha, we pay like $150 for everything each month and we are *supposed* to be getting something way faster than what we're getting now.
> Jeffinslaw


Mine just sucks..lmao Fios isn't in my area yet. I have Timewarner cable & it great during the morning time. But when its like around 6 pm. Then its like around 5 or 6 MPS..


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> If anyone knows where I can get a 2 pin fan connector (male/female) in the US...let me know. I have seen it on ModDIY...but that ships from HongKong.


Frozen has them.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Frozen has them.


The male version of that is only for pcb/motherboard. Hmmm maybe i can just put the male version into the white acrylic of the vandal...and run 18 AWG to the other side of vandal bay and have another one there (and place the 18AWG in a groove on the acrylic. That will be so cool...but I dont have a router to do that.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> The male version of that is only for pcb/motherboard. Hmmm maybe i can just put the male version into the white acrylic of the vandal...and run 18 AWG to the other side of vandal bay and have another one there (and place the 18AWG in a groove on the acrylic. That will be so cool...but I dont have a router to do that.


The link above is for a fan connector, and would use the same pins as you use in 3pin fan connectors. If you need the male version also, you can use this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9466/ele-563/FrozenCPU_ConnectRight_2-pin_Male_Power_Connector_-_Black.html?tl=g51c395

or use only 2 of the 3 pins of a hooded connector like this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12272/ele-772/FrozenCPU_3-pin_Male_Shielded_Fan_Connector_-_Black.html?tl=g51c389s1348

Both of these are for fans.


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks Chris.


----------



## Seanimus

*USB 3.0*
This Akasa Card reader is not good..? As I have to route that second cable either to back of case or get a PCI card to internally connect 3.0 to. Bummer.
The SilverStone has the 20 Pin internal header that can connect to the motherboard directly. Have to get that now. Any better choices before I order?
Wish CaseLabs made the USB3.0 Retrofit for STH10. Anyone know if they are releasing something anytime soon?

*EVGA X79* Just informational on a message I got and response from EVGA.
"
Your Question:
Hi,
I have some one telling me that EVGA Classified x79 doesn't support 16x 3.0 PCIe natively.

I thought it depends on 3 factors Mobo, GPU and CPU.
1) EVGA X79 Classified
2) EVGA 690 Hydro Copper
3) i7 3930K

Your Answer:
Hello,

You are correct that the x79 does not support PCI-E natively. In this case, you are able to select the Gen3 in the BIOS settings for the motherboard as you have an Ivy Bridge processor that supports PCI-E 3.0. If you need further assistance, technical support is here 24/7.

EVGA
"


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Why not the one cpachris used in his build? It has one internal USB 3.0 connector. http://www.overclock.net/t/1266202/build-log-the-big-budget-boomer-box-aka-the-bbbb/530#post_17664943

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

+rep for Jeffinslaw.. Rosewill...

Related question, since I opened this can of worms. Why do I even need a memory card reader. The HP 8500N printer alread has card readers, and can transfer to USB memory stick on the Printer. All I have to do is connect the printer via USB 3.0 to the computer.
Secondly I don't even have any devices that use these cards....My son has these games, where you can download on SD card, and put in sort of plugin for DS....but even that he doesn't use anymore.
Do people really use these card readers and for what purpose?
Nowadays all devices I use are USB.


----------



## cpachris

The reason I use one is that I find it much more convenient to pop the card out of my camera or video camera and put that in the card reader....than to mess with attaching a USB cord to both the camera and the computer. And I do that just about every day. But if you don't mind attaching cords....I agree...no real point to the card readers.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> +rep for Jeffinslaw.. Rosewill...
> Related question, since I opened this can of worms. Why do I even need a memory card reader. The HP 8500N printer alread has card readers, and can transfer to USB memory stick on the Printer. All I have to do is connect the printer via USB 3.0 to the computer.
> Secondly I don't even have any devices that use these cards....My son has these games, where you can download on SD card, and put in sort of plugin for DS....but even that he doesn't use anymore.
> Do people really use these card readers and for what purpose?
> Nowadays all devices I use are USB.


Cameras mainly, but most come with a USB lead as well.


----------



## Seanimus

The camera cord is attached permanently to my keyboard and a 12 foot USB cord to my sons computer in kitchen bar. The reason is you can control the camera settings/movie through the canon t4i software on computer.
I used the USB so much that I overlooked the fact that camera has the ultra sd to pop out. But yeah I could go down this route.
Thanks Chris . Have to ask my son if he would ever use it...


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Cameras mainly, but most come with a USB lead as well.


Hi alan...thanks.

So I asked my son and he murmured somethign to the effect of "I don't need it, as I lost all the micro SD and device.."








and then he made me watch 



 which was funny. Skip to around 12 mins if you get bored watching it...
And he wanted his AMD computer upgraded for Christmas. That was one expensive question I had on memory card reader.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Just caught up on your Log.. Man your doing a Great Job..


----------



## socketus

Same here, and I want this thread to show in my profile ...


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Same here, and I want this thread to show in my profile ...


If anyone wants to add this thread to their signature, these are the codes. Like posts, signatures can be plain or rich text depending on content. Whichever one works for you.

*BB Code (Plain Text)*







*CaseLabs STH10 - Aquacomputer EVGA - "Seanimus448"*









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*CaseLabs STH10 - Aquacomputer EVGA - "Seanimus448"* *







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*


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> +rep for Jeffinslaw.. Rosewill...
> 
> Related question, since I opened this can of worms. Why do I even need a memory card reader. The HP 8500N printer alread has card readers, and can transfer to USB memory stick on the Printer. All I have to do is connect the printer via USB 3.0 to the computer.
> Secondly I don't even have any devices that use these cards....My son has these games, where you can download on SD card, and put in sort of plugin for DS....but even that he doesn't use anymore.
> Do people really use these card readers and for what purpose?
> Nowadays all devices I use are USB.


I use multiple cards in my cameras and I bought even more cards for my T4i. Its nice to shoot a lot then switch cards. Even more so when doing HD Video.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I use multiple cards in my cameras and I bought even more cards for my T4i. Its nice to shoot a lot then switch cards. Even more so when doing HD Video.


And do you use the card reader or the USB to transfer the movie to the computer?


----------



## Fuganater

Card reader


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks for all the responses and help on chosing right 3.25 device.
So card reader and USB 3.0 device it is..
Down to 2 choices:
Rosewill RDCR-11003 74-in-1 USB3.0 3.5" Internal Card Reader w/USB Port looks like 2 cables- 1 20 pin and other I can't see.
Silverstone SST-FP37B USB 3.0 USB 3.0 Card Reader, Support SDXC Format with Extra Silver Front Panel (Black) - looks like a single 20 pin cable.

Go Silverstone?


----------



## Fuganater

I use a cheapo Asaka one. Works fine. If you want USB3.0 then go for w/e one is cheaper. They are all the same IMO.

Rosewell one looks like 2 cables that both go to the 20 pin.


----------



## cpachris

Both have the same cable setup....one 20 pin motherboard style connection. 10 pins are dedicated to the USB port on the card reader, ....and all of the different card type slots share the other 10 pins on the 20 pin connection.

I'd go with the Rosewill just because it has more feedback and the feedback is more positive.


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks cpaChris and Fuganater.

Ordered it.
Chris...assuming this 2x10 Polulu housing will work for this. But how long is the wire? Will it fit from front of STH10 to top ...have to measure but i think more than 24".


----------



## Seanimus

Missed all this..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> If anyone wants to add this thread to their signature, these are the codes. Like posts, signatures can be plain or rich text depending on content.


My signature is blank...heh..have to add some stuff on to it. Tried a week ago but it errored out when uploading graphics.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Same here, and I want this thread to show in my profile ...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Just caught up on your Log.. Man your doing a Great Job..


Thanks.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Missed all this..
> My signature is blank...heh..have to add some stuff on to it. Tried a week ago but it errored out when uploading graphics.
> Thanks.


"They" ruled out graphics in sigs. Sig Graphics Icons are OK.

You can attach a small graphic to each rig though.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks cpaChris and Fuganater.
> Ordered it.
> Chris...assuming this 2x10 Polulu housing will work for this. But how long is the wire? Will it fit from front of STH10 to top ...have to measure but i think more than 24".


I would only use the housing if you are running something to a USB 2.0 connection and making your own wires.

For 3.0 connections...the cable is more complicated than you want to mess with for making your own. I started down that path...and bailed. The cable on the Rosewill is 24 inches. Unsure of Silverstone....but would guess its the same. Not sure if that will fit into your desired wire path or not. If that's not long enough...you can try something like this to extend it:


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> "They" ruled out graphics in sigs. Sig Graphics Icons are OK.
> You can attach a small graphic to each rig though.


1) Yea it was the graphic for components like CPU, gpu mono etc.
2) on iPad if you change The view from default mobile devices to normal browser. How do you change it back. Can,t find it in profile
3) the add reputation button on iPad doesn't work. Cancel works. Computer is fine. Is it because of safari ( setting is browser view and not mobile device)


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I would only use the housing if you are running something to a USB 2.0 connection and making your own wires.
> For 3.0 connections...the cable is more complicated than you want to mess with for making your own. I started down that path...and bailed. The cable on the Rosewill is 24 inches. Unsure of Silverstone....but would guess its the same. Not sure if that will fit into your desired wire path or not. If that's not long enough...you can try something like this to extend it:


Damn..i hate that extension cable. Why was it so complicated chris. and i lost the link to the layout...but it was 10pin USB side by side.


----------



## Seanimus

These two USB cables that I built during Sandy...will have to go into that pile of stuff I don't need. Along with Family pack of white sleeving...Just collecting the stuff and get rid off it as a bonus item.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8246390874/

Removing that velcro was causing a mess. Just leaving it there for now.
Will probably have to move that to an acrylic piece like 3.5" by 3.5
and then stack the USB hub, and RGB amp ..which would leave like 1.5"x1.5" of free space on the acrylic.
Maybe I should just get a breadboard and run the AQ5 aquabus and power connectors there with earlier thought of 2pin.
If I do the typical 4pin Molex thing...its going to start looking bad here also, as shot earlier in vandal bay.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8245323853/

On a side note...those wires got trained on their own..with no clips.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8245323599/


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> 1) Yea it was the graphic for components like CPU, gpu mono etc.
> 2) on iPad if you change The view from default mobile devices to normal browser. How do you change it back. Can,t find it in profile
> 3) the add reputation button on iPad doesn't work. Cancel works. Computer is fine. Is it because of safari ( setting is browser view and not mobile device)


Oh dear. I'm not up on all of that. I know not all content appears on mobile browsers. I also know they've just done a major upgrade in that area (27th November), and I would say are still working on it..

http://www.overclock.net/t/1331853/todays-updates-mobile-edition-aka-release-notes-for-november-27th


----------



## Seanimus

Don't know exactly where I am going with all this..but ordered these parts.

FrozenCPU:
cab-1006 FrozenCPU USB 3.0 20-Pin Internal Extension Cable - 16" (FCUC-02)
ele-563 FrozenCPU ConnectRight 2-pin Male Power Connector - Black
ele-570 FrozenCPU ConnectRight 2-pin Female Power Connector - Black

Pololu:
#1930 Female Crimp Pins for 0.1" Housings 100-Pack
#1917 0.1" (2.54mm) Crimp Connector Housing: 2x10-Pin 5-Pack
#1936 Mini Tamiya Connector Pack, Female
#1937 Mini Tamiya Connector Pack, Male
#1490 170-Point Breadboard (White)

Need copper brown or just brown acrylic and maroon acrylic ...still looking


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Need copper brown or just brown acrylic and maroon acrylic ...still looking


What do you think about 3M030 (red) and 3K048 (rust)?

http://www.acrylite.net/sites/dc/Downloadcenter/Evonik/Product/ACRYLITE/CMS%20Color%20Reference%2009.2009.pdf


----------



## Seanimus

The products for slightbox i got are from evonik. excellent packaging. Trying to find original order ..shipped from east coast and got it in 2 days. No hurry though.
Need black acrylic as well for CNC...and want to try a different white top for lightbox with 30% pass through.


----------



## Seanimus

Still editing this post; but so far:
Bronze 8C030 GT
Silver 0A000 X1
Black 9K020 GT
Red 3C20 GT


----------



## mandrix

I like those Mini Tamiya connectors. I wouldn't mind substituting some of those for the bulky 4 pin molex where I only need 12v & ground.
We used similar in the rechargeable battery business for battery packs. (I used to do R&D at Eveready) Thanks for the reminder, I had forgotten all about those.
+rep for a worthwhile memory jog.


----------



## Fuganater

https://www.estreetplastics.com/Colored_Plexiglass_Sheets_s/109.htm

They have brown and maroon.


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks Mandrix.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> https://www.estreetplastics.com/Colored_Plexiglass_Sheets_s/109.htm
> They have brown and maroon.


And looks like its cheaper.


----------



## Seanimus

Like half the cost of Evonik. +Rep to Fuganater.
12" x 24" - Plexiglass Acrylic Mirror Sheet - 1/8" Thick $10.59
1/8" x 12" x 12" - Maroon Plexiglass Acrylic Sheet - #2240 $3.99
1/8" x 12" x 12" - Brown Plexiglass Acrylic Sheet - #2418 $3.99
1/8" Thick - 12" x 24" Black Plexiglass Acrylic Sheet - #2025 $7.39
Total: $25.18


----------



## Seanimus

Do i need to shield USB cables? Wasn't planning on the custome cables...but noticed that the cables I have from NZXT are shielded with foil. I would think the same would apply to the RoseWill...that's why its so thick..


----------



## Fuganater

I never have. I think they just do it for protection but I'm not sure.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Do i need to shield USB cables? Wasn't planning on the custome cables...but noticed that the cables I have from NZXT are shielded with foil. I would think the same would apply to the RoseWill...that's why its so thick..


I belong to tonymacx86 and with the G5 conversions, a lot of people make their own front panel cable connector. You don't have to shield it, just make sure to wrap the DATA+ and the DATA- together.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

USB crimping: Also posting so I remember how to do it a month later..
Shots in Macro Lens
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8251964280/[/url

Crimped portion (side where you can see wires crimped) face outwards for USB:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8251963712/

While pushing in you will see this black thing move up a bit:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8251963446/

Lousy shot...but when inserted the black flap will drop down and kind of hold it:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8250893921/

Don't rush and do multiple at a time...








http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8250893587/

Guys i was advised to shield USB cables as they are prone to interference. I was not going to do it...but since I had some aluminium foil tape lying around.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8250893323/

Wrapped it around every 4 inches or so to make it easier:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8250892883/

brown insulation tape on top...have to--very apparent through sleeving otherwise:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8250892615/

Beautiful:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8250892231/

Looks manufactured now:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8251961398/

Very stiff:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8250891637/

Still can bend with nice larger turns:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8250891483/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8250891209/


----------



## socketus

_*BRAVO !!*_


----------



## mandrix

Why did you decide to do the USB 2.0 from scratch, needed a longer cable? I was able to sleeve mine with the small MDPC with no problems. I did have to extend my HD Audio cable, though, which required some soldering and a little wire.
Good idea on the shielding, with the metallic tape.

So what is your plan for the USB 3.0?


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Why did you decide to do the USB 2.0 from scratch, needed a longer cable? I was able to sleeve mine with the small MDPC with no problems. I did have to extend my HD Audio cable, though, which required some soldering and a little wire.
> Good idea on the shielding, with the metallic tape.
> So what is your plan for the USB 3.0?


One is longer rest are much shorter. No point cutting up original and removing fat plastic sleeving. Easier to make a new one.
USB 3.0 I am not sure. Just got the Rosewill along with a package from Shoggy for matching screws for Vandal Bay.

I may have to buy a bandsaw and drill press to get the Vandal Bay moving - local shop is annoying me now with delay.
Any good recommendations for price/performance and quality. I was thinking Router initially and going back and forth on that.

Sears:
Craftsman 10" Bench Drill Press with Laser Trac® (21900) $139.99

Craftsman 1/3 hp 3.5 amp 10" Band Saw (21400) $169.99

Carbon Tool Steel Bandsaw Blade 1/4" Width; 6 Hook Tooth; 0.025" Thickness, $7.98

Craftsman 1/8 x 70-1/2 in. Band Saw Blade, 14TPI, $16.99


----------



## nyk20z3

What camera & lens are you using ?


----------



## mandrix

The Craftsman drill press should be fine. I went down to Lowes and bought a small drill press for around the same price early this year. Just for anything really tall you have to practically take it apart unless the drill will swivel 90*. The small one works fine for me, though.

I don't own a bandsaw so I can't comment on that. Basically all my non-wood cuts are made with either jigsaw (metal/acrylic) or table saw (acrylic).
The newer jigsaws that adjust for wood/plastic/metal are pretty handy.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> What camera & lens are you using ?


The Canon T4i and Canon Macro Lens


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> The Craftsman drill press should be fine. I went down to Lowes and bought a small drill press for around the same price early this year. Just for anything really tall you have to practically take it apart unless the drill will swivel 90*. The small one works fine for me, though.
> I don't own a bandsaw so I can't comment on that. Basically all my non-wood cuts are made with either jigsaw (metal/acrylic) or table saw (acrylic).
> The newer jigsaws that adjust for wood/plastic/metal are pretty handy.


I have a really good jigsaw (bosch) ...The vibrations were just too much on narrow small pieces...Most of tools you can see in post #80.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7967258314/

So I got this later Dremel Max Saw. This was is good for large pieces where you can use a T as a guide. When it came to small pieces without a guide ..did not work out well. Post #215
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8092465231/

Have the regular Deremel as well with its blade:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8095872366/

All these tools work fine. Smaller the piece to cut and if you need straight edges...thats the challenge.


----------



## Systemlord

Gosh that's very clean edges you cut there Seanimus! If you don't mind me asking, what is that white stuff sandwiched around the plexiglass? I ruined my brother's jigsaw cutting to fast through 1" inch thick of that super dense speaker material used for high-end subwoofers, that stuff is brutal on a jigsaw!


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Gosh that's very clean edges you cut there Seanimus! If you don't mind me asking, what is that white stuff sandwiched around the plexiglass? I ruined my brother's jigsaw cutting to fast through 1" inch thick of that super dense speaker material used for high-end subwoofers, that stuff is brutal on a jigsaw!


Thanks SystemLord. Thats two 0.25" White Acrylic sandwiching a 0.125" Transparent Acrylic. My original custom design for Lightbox with CCFL, till I ditched the idea due to SLightbox concept.
That was cut with DremelMax Saw and Bosch jigsaw for oval shapes.
Again DremelMax Saw is great for large pieces with a guide.


----------



## Seanimus

Had these cool red 8pins from HongKong..Unfortunately not VGA...have to use the black one.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8255221055/

Also got package from Shoggy for matching bolts from AQ5 for Vandal Bay. And some spare buttons for AQ5 Pro.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8255220649/

Got distracted last night with some other stuff ...and this afternoon was long time away from build..but I do have Band-saw-jig and drill-press...
That Band Saw is huge. The smaller one didn't have a guide...so I just took the larger one which was like $30 more.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8255220253/

Now where should I put it...
Can't rightmost (right of current workbench)---wife said no...she needs her space to take grocerries in the house.
Can't go left of current workbench. I have a sitting bench there which is goes into the wall studs and usually stock up with fire wood for the winter. (not this year..lol).
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8255219719/

Maybe put my son's bike (which he never uses) in the basement and clear that space up. And put "new" workbench left of chop-saw.
This Canon T4i takes great shots (without flash) with minimal light on aperture setting:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8255219125/

I am sure I will find some 6x10 in there to make a new workbench. Probably not 36" tall like current workbench. More like 32" like the one the chop-saw is on.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8255218643/

Got this featherboard to hold pieces while using the bandsaw...Son also went shopping with his mom in the mall, while I was in Sears and found these cool gloves.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8255218095/

Have to build a workbench now...


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I ruined my brother's jigsaw cutting to fast through 1" inch thick of that super dense speaker material used for high-end subwoofers, that stuff is brutal on a jigsaw!


1 inch thick....I used a Circular Saw for that..see post #332 for the subwoofer [2x12]x2 platform with sand under.
Even hard wood the dremel max saw or jig saw will crap out. Circlur saw ....Anyways tomorrow I'll post pictures for the cutting really thick wood 2x10. Also note treated 2x10 is so much denser than regular 2x10...the circular saw will eat through that real quick


----------



## cpachris

For reasons that I can't divulge...I have been compelled to post in this thread immediately. The topic is unimportant at the time. What's important is a promise that was made to me. I am fulfilling half of this pact. The other 1/2 must be completed as soon as possible.

Your turn, Seanimus.







Bring on Catniss.


----------



## Seanimus

Half the stuff in box
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8256825156/
Other half assembled to split the weight...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8256824684/

Left stuff here...so when I do the workbench I can atleast lift it in two pieces:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8256824230/

Have to dismatle this ..[2x12]x2 otherwise any longer car in the future will not fit in garage.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8256823772/

Which means 8 foot workbench here with [2x10]x2
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8256823336/

Not going to build these type of drawers which can hold like 100 pounds each.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8256822946/

cpaChris what you talking about...? hehe


----------



## Seanimus

ForestGirl aiming to hurt Chris:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8255796313/


----------



## cpachris

I'm imagining a deer. A deer...at least 50 yards away. No...100 yards away. Because FG would never dream of taking a shot less difficult than that. The deer looks at her. She assesses the deer's moral character with simply a glance. She determines the deer is evil. She would never shoot a good deer. But this deer is evil. So this deer is running out of luck. FG pulls back the arrow, she exhales slowly...she looks the deer in the eye one last time....and....


----------



## Seanimus

Got these items from online metals:
2x .040" 5052-H32 ALUMINUM SHEET
12 inches x 24 inches $6.47 $12.94 In Process

2x .063" 5052-H32 ALUMINUM SHEET
12 inches x 12 inches $5.28 $10.56 In Process

1x .080" 5052-H32 ALUMINUM SHEET
12 inches x 12 inches $6.70 $6.70 In Process

1x 0.036" T-316-2B Annealed Stainless Sheet
12 inches x 12 inches $15.57 $15.57 In Process

1x 0.040" BARE ALUMINUM SHEET 7075-T6
12 inches x 12 inches $8.43 $8.43 In Process

From Pololu:
This crimper. because the MDPC fan side of the crimper is not perfect for USB crimps which are smaller:


----------



## Seanimus

Can't believe it fit in the bmw....
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8258208309/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8258207811/

Before workbench I need power there (another side project to the side project):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8258207445/

And need light there:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8258206881/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8259275430/

Romex:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8259274922/

Light and power there..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8258205373/

Now I can start the workbench

Think I went overboard with the wood .. and all that in my car....lol:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8259273642/


----------



## trippinonprozac

Epic build you have here!

Had a lot of fun reading through all 56 pages!

Keep up the fantastic work.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> Epic build you have here!
> Had a lot of fun reading through all 56 pages!
> Keep up the fantastic work.


Thanks!!

Here we go..saw dust going to be everywhere.. Doing the ribs to hold top [2x10]x2
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8259262153/

Top made with 2x8 at the back to rest against wall. Also straightens the whole thing out.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8260330274/

Legs done. Front legs are right angled with [2x4]x2
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8259261245/

Put [2x4] 8 footers on bottom part of legs. joists done also:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8260329264/

Here it is all nice and done. Have to stain it later
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8259260001/

So in one day: electrical power to new spot in garage, flourescent lights up, workbench [2x10]x2 with one bottom shelf--- and buying materials from home depot.
I don't think I will be able to make it to work tomorrow...sure back is goign to hurt like crazy;.


----------



## socketus

You'll let us all know when you are planning to knock holes into walls to make more TOOL SHOP room, right ??









THis is turning into an epic on epic ness


----------



## kweechy

This is reminding me of that Stephen Hawking quote:

"To make a good apple pie from scratch, first you must create the universe."


----------



## ForestGirl111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm imagining a deer. A deer...at least 50 yards away. No...100 yards away. Because FG would never dream of taking a shot less difficult than that. The deer looks at her. She assesses the deer's moral character with simply a glance. She determines the deer is evil. She would never shoot a good deer. But this deer is evil. So this deer is running out of luck. FG pulls back the arrow, she exhales slowly...she looks the deer in the eye one last time....and....


This had me cracking up!







The thing is, I'm a real good shot, but I adore all animals. I could never shoot one! I can't even eat one (I'm a vegetarian). So basically I reserve this skill for any human that steps on my land uninvited. And so I continue to target practice in my backyard and the woods beyond...just in case...


----------



## Bart

This build has everything. Aesthetics, creativity, engineering skills, power tools, and now love.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You're hired! I'll take one of these. Nice job.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForestGirl111*
> 
> This had me cracking up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is, I'm a real good shot, but I adore all animals. I could never shoot one! I can't even eat one (I'm a vegetarian). So basically I reserve this skill for any human that steps on my land uninvited. And so I continue to target practice in my backyard and the woods beyond...just in case...


Lol. (making a mental notes....never step foot on FG property without an invite....don't give steaks for christmas...)


----------



## alancsalt

"Tresspassers will be shot,
Survivors will be shot again!"

Tread carefully by the river.....


----------



## solidshark91493

I always come back here, love reading this build. Cant wait to see the finished product!








(Im also quite jelly of the amount of tools and garage space you have D: ) Tools are costly.


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks all....and alan i am honored that you to put my build in your signature ..

Went to stain the workbench; but back is killing...so started fooling around with some packages that arrived.

RoseWill and Akasa have different layouts you can see it in the circuitry...even though its the same main chip.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8262112121/

The 5 pin connector on Akasa is probably because I ordered the wrong model.
The connection under is the same:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8262111827/

Got this really small breadboard from pololu:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8263180092/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8263180426/

I could distribute power and Aquabus cable this way:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8263179816/

But then ofcourse the mini-tamiya connector as compared to 4pin molex:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8262110113/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8262109801/

The connection points of the mini-tamiya connector is a circle and square (have to take a good picture to post of that)...Only one way to insert with a locking mechanism on the top which you can push down to release.

That settles it; I am purging all 4 pin mole connectors from my system.

Ordered following. Was waiting Jeffinslaw to get mirrored acrylic and test it before I ordered; but he is doing his test after christmas. no worries I can test first and post.
1/8" x 12" x 24" - Black Plexiglass Acrylic Sheet
1/8" x 12" x 24" - Brown Plexiglass Acrylic Sheet
1/8" x 12" x 24" - Maroon Plexiglass Acrylic Sheet
1/8" x 12" x 24" - Plexiglass Acrylic Mirror Sheet


----------



## cpachris

Did they have those mini-connectors in different colors? Pretty small. Would be nice in certain spots.


----------



## Seanimus

I did not find. Going to paint one with krylon fusion black matte for plastics to see if it holds when used roughly and it shouldn't get sticky after few days. Some plastics just react differently


----------



## deafboy

Just keeps getting better


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Ordered following. Was waiting Jeffinslaw to get mirrored acrylic and test it before I ordered; but he is doing his test after christmas. no worries I can test first and post.
> 1/8" x 12" x 24" - Black Plexiglass Acrylic Sheet
> 1/8" x 12" x 24" - Brown Plexiglass Acrylic Sheet
> 1/8" x 12" x 24" - Maroon Plexiglass Acrylic Sheet
> 1/8" x 12" x 24" - Plexiglass Acrylic Mirror Sheet


I would do it before but it's finals week and then next week I have off but I'll be at my dads house. I'm almost positive that having the mirrored piece of acrylic will give you a much brighter panel... hmmm... I just though of something....

I'll be back in a bit with pictures.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks Deafboy...and you are really not helping me make up my mind on the pipes







...You keep having better ideas...Just going to hold off till you and Fuganater and B-Negative and others settle on something thats on the horizon that would be ideal.
Need compression 75% sure on that, since I will probably move that around a bit; being my first mod and stuff. So Bitspower is out of the picture if I go that route.

On EVGA 690 power ... probably going to be really short power connection....10" if i go this route. yellow wire there to see where 1 black wire goes. This is a prototype...but I believe this will work.
And I think the bends the way they are...having exactly 10" point to point will be evenly spaced.
eg: Top left from PSU (vertical) makes bend right and then goes bottom left (horizontal) on EVGA. I thought it might be more complicated where each pairs of wire will have to be different lengths by like 0.25" to account for bends.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8263403276/


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Okay, this is what I did. So we have acrylic mirrors in the house so I used a battery (only 9 volts so it isn't the brightest) and I had my sister hold the etched and white up to the mirror.





I may have had the etched acrylic upside down so I wasn't getting the best light. But ehh, still a test.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Okay, this is what I did. So we have acrylic mirrors in the house so I used a battery (only 9 volts so it isn't the brightest) and I had my sister hold the etched and white up to the mirror.
> I may have had the etched acrylic upside down so I wasn't getting the best light. But ehh, still a test.
> Jeffinslaw


Thanks jeffinslaw . You didn't.t have to make your sister hold it. My son gets irritated when I ask him to hold stuff like the fluorescent tube casing while I screw bolts into wood. Just need 2 people at times


----------



## Seanimus

Ok so i got some other suggestion on alternatives to mini-Tamiya...will keep everyone apprised.
mini-Tamiay for Pumps for sure as it needs atleast 18AWG.

Others TBD.

Going to bed..as I am not cutting this properly. For 16 AWG and perfect 10" cut you need a board like this...Will resume tomorrow...long day at work:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8263577176/


----------



## manlychild

Great build so far! sub'd!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks jeffinslaw . You didn't.t have to make your sister hold it. My son gets irritated when I ask him to hold stuff like the fluorescent tube casing while I screw bolts into wood. Just need 2 people at times


She didn't mind haha.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## mandrix

I received my Mini Tamiya connectors, they will be very handy for running 12v without a big honkin connector. I will try to get one painted today to see how well the paint holds. Thought I would try the Krylon for plastic.


----------



## goodtobeking

Subbing for sure. I just went through all 58 posts. Amazing is all I can say. Also may steal the mini Tamiya connectors idea because I HATE having a bunch of giant Molex plugs everywhere. Someone needs to make a distribution block for Molex like these.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Subbing for sure. I just went through all 58 posts. Amazing is all I can say. Also may steal the mini Tamiya connectors idea because I HATE having a bunch of giant Molex plugs everywhere. Someone needs to make a distribution block for Molex like these.


Does anyone know if you can control the RPM of the fans if they are placed on one of those things?

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Does anyone know if you can control the RPM of the fans if they are placed on one of those things?
> Jeffinslaw


No you cannot. Its pure power. Fans will be at full blast.
And do not ever get those blocks (fan version) as the RPM wire is all messed up in those units. If you don't need RPM and its power distribution - then I guess its fine...Haven't sampled one and opened it up.
Also I didn't know they had a 8pin inlet connection one as well. Which is good.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Subbing for sure. I just went through all 58 posts. Amazing is all I can say. Also may steal the mini Tamiya connectors idea because I HATE having a bunch of giant Molex plugs everywhere. Someone needs to make a distribution block for Molex like these.


Thanks and maybe a distribution block with other types of connectors...Still looking into it.

Mini-Tamiya can take 16-18AWG so pumps fine here.


----------



## mandrix

I painted three sets of the mini tamiya connectors today with Krylon. It appears to be holding pretty good. I took one and plugged/unplugged 15 or 20 times and didn't see any paint come off.

Not sure on what kind of fan distrubution units y'all were discussing, but I recently bought one of the 5 - 3 pin hubs and all I did was scratch out the rpm trace beyond the first fan. This allows only one fan to feed the rpm signal back to the 3 pin power feed. It's powered from my Aquaero.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14662/ele-988/3-Pin_Power_Distribution_PCB_5xWay_Block_MMT-PCB-5WAY.html?id=96ygQNWi&mv_pc=3206
I'm using this for my case fans, all the rad fans are on hand-made harnesses.


----------



## goodtobeking

Yeah I was wondering how that worked with the tach wire. I know from experience that you cant have more than one fan reporting to an header. Good to know though that its an easy fix. Any idea what those are rated for?? Im looking at the 6/8 pin pcie power versions.

Was looking around at Pololu, hoping to find a terminal connector(for lack of knowing what it would be called). Where I could plug 3-5 of those mini tamiya connector into a single larger connector to clean stuff up. But no go.

Does anyone know if the Aquaeros use just a 12v and ground connection, or do they need the other two wires as well(I think they are ground and 5/7v). If so, that would be the only Molex cable I need that has 4 pins.

EDIT: where are you splitting your power for the mini tamiya connectors from??


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I painted three sets of the mini tamiya connectors today with Krylon. It appears to be holding pretty good. I took one and plugged/unplugged 15 or 20 times and didn't see any paint come off.


Thanks for testing this. Will paint tomorrow. Let me know if it becomes sticky after few days.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Aquaeros use just a 12v and ground connection, or do they need the other two wires as well(I think they are ground and 5/7v). If so, that would be the only Molex cable I need that has 4 pins.


Its in post #361 and #391....it needs both. Confirmed by Shoggy.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Aquaeros use just a 12v and ground connection, or do they need the other two wires as well(I think they are ground and 5/7v). If so, that would be the only Molex cable I need that has 4 pins.


The AQ5 unit itself needs the 5v also...so use all 4 wires. But the PowerAdjust2's only need the 12v and ground. Just two wires.


----------



## Seanimus

Just got this crimper from Pololu (left one with blue handle) for USB 0.1" pins (smallest one); and as compared to MDPC one. Not as heavy and sturdy as the MDPC one but it serves the purpose..see below:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8266222612/

Also got this multi plier set in Sears for $15..was a steal:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8265156027/

Used the plier to move bottom crimp:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8266223960/

The green one i just did went into usb without using pliers or a pin to push it in:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8265156261/

This should make my life easier doing remaining 10 USB wires - 20 connections - 80 crimps.


----------



## Seanimus

little less than 10":
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8266475608/

partially complete to test if length is correct. Looks very nice:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8266474918/

from top view...only 1 -2 inches will be seen:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8265406929/

will do rest tomorrow .. remainder of this cable to VGA0 on PSU and new cable to VGA1 on PSU . Two separate cables.


----------



## deafboy

Oh how I love custom length cables.... one day. one day.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks for testing this. Will paint tomorrow. Let me know if it becomes sticky after few days.
> Its in post #361 and #391....it needs both. Confirmed by Shoggy.


All I've noticed is that although I used a gloss white, the end result is less than glossy. which is OK for me, since my case is matte white. With the Krylon I was able to put several coats on in a short amount of time as it seemed to dry really quick, even though the humidity has been very high lately. However I brought them inside to dry between coats where the humidity tends to stay below 60%.
A few people have suggested that it might be worthwhile to dye them, as cpachris did with his sleeve and connectors. That is just more than I wanted to put into it, unless absolutely necessary.

So those new crimpers work well with the small pins? I've noticed the MDPC crimpers don't really do a stellar job on very small pins such as the Harwin 855-M20-1180046 (for 2.54 pitch connectors).
I'm hoping it will handle the mini tamiya connector pins OK although it might take some precrimping with pliers.


----------



## Seanimus

I dont mind if the color changes a bit or the finish. The main thing is if it becomes sticky or starts peeling off when totally cured. 24-48 hrs. Keep it under a spotlight.
At this time, I too am not interested in investing time to dye.

Crimper is good for small pins.


----------



## Nutman

Those wire lengths look spot on. They curve nicely, too. I'll have to get me a crimper soon!


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Oh how I love custom length cables.... one day. one day.


It is really painful at start....Takes a while to get used to it...and first month for me was a disaster.
Plus you will develop calluses . In some cases it is just not worth doing it in my opinion.


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> It is really painful at start....Takes a while to get used to it...and first month for me was a disaster.
> Plus you will develop calluses . In some cases it is just not worth doing it in my opinion.


Yeah but I still wanna do it, Just the fun of customizing it myself, and making it my own instead of the same as every other PC. Plus, depending on how much time you put into it (Youve put a lot into it, and it shows) It really adds to the quality of the build. Everything looks clean and tidy. And well put together! :3
So I would still like to do it. For mine, Im thinking Green and black.. Ill have probably just as much wiring as you. So Im wondering how much (or a ballpark estimate) You think Ill need to spend to sleeve all my cables..?

Keep up the good work!


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> It is really painful at start....Takes a while to get used to it...and first month for me was a disaster.
> Plus you will develop calluses . In some cases it is just not worth doing it in my opinion.


If all modular cables had the same pinouts, I would do it. But I don't really want to have to do it just to have to redo it in a few years, especially with everything changing over to digital at some point. I should have done it years back when I originally got my AX. Oh well.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> If all modular cables had the same pinouts, I would do it. But I don't really want to have to do it just to have to redo it in a few years, especially with everything changing over to digital at some point. I should have done it years back when I originally got my AX. Oh well.


I returned my 2xpsu twice since purchase in September and finally settled with EVGA Supernova with the USB thing to get on screen. I think Corsair now has usb out too. EVGA is all 1:1 no overlapping pin outs and fancy stuff...can't get more modular than that.
but before I forget I had this question in my mind for weeks and I keep forgetting to ask.
Can one get a triple bay LCD screen for front bays...which will get attached to rear of GPU card, and you can use that as second monitor? But I want only certain software to show there (right now EVGA PSU Control Screen). That would be cool.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> I returned my 2xpsu twice since purchase in September and finally settled with EVGA Supernova with the USB thing to get on screen. I think Corsair now has usb out too. EVGA is all 1:1 no overlapping pin outs and fancy stuff...can't get more modular than that.
> but before I forget I had this question in my mind for weeks and I keep forgetting to ask.
> Can one get a triple bay LCD screen for front bays...which will get attached to rear of GPU card, and you can use that as second monitor? But I want only certain software to show there (right now EVGA PSU Control Screen). That would be cool.


That's certainly very nice that it has the one to one pinout, I wish all of them would just do that. Ugh.

As for the bay screen. I'd honestly suggest just buying a phone or tablet or something off of craigslist and make a bay mount for it. You can then just get an app to turn it into a secondary display. You could do either USB or wireless (depending on the app), it's certainly not as smooth as your primary monitors but for your needs it works very well. Co-worker used his phone and tablet to put his chat windows on.

The downside with dedicated bay monitors is often the displays are absolutely terrible, over priced like no other, and hard to find in color. Alphacool used to have one, but I don't even think it was full color. lol.


----------



## Seanimus

It was as complicated as what i thought originally...each pair had to shorter by 0.25"...found that out shortly after cabling few more and testing it:
So ruler where i was at last night...and each pair down by 0.25":
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8268086831/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8268086551/
Keep checking after every pair
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8268086323/
Final testing:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8268085775/
Changed it come down left fan inlet:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8269154620/
Checking again general layout:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8269154376/
ZipTied it for training..16AWG should hold when i remove the zip ties...(at least thats the idea)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8269154140/

Took so long to do one cable 4 hrs....I built a whole workbench in 10 hrs with lighting and power...absolutely no comparison. and I ripped by left thumb open with crimp pin while straightening the sleeve..
Now have bandaid on left thumb. Great !

Also received the band saw blade... another place to nick your fingers







:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8268084417/


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> The downside with dedicated bay monitors is often the displays are absolutely terrible, over priced like no other, and hard to find in color. Alphacool used to have one, but I don't even think it was full color. lol.


Yep it sucks...forget that idea.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nutman*
> 
> Those wire lengths look spot on. They curve nicely, too. I'll have to get me a crimper soon!


Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> Ill have probably just as much wiring as you. So Im wondering how much (or a ballpark estimate) You think Ill need to spend to sleeve all my cables..?
> Keep up the good work!


Thanks...Generally you get the family pack from MDPC. 200feet ? for big case. It all depends on case. You can make rough estimate using excel or something...like mobo is 24 wires * 2feet + cpu power 1 8 wires * 3 feet and so on.
And mine was overestimated as I didn't think of the short route for GPU when I ordered.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> All I've noticed is that although I used a gloss white, the end result is less than glossy. which is OK for me, since my case is matte white.


Mandrix still looking good ...not sticky?


----------



## frank anderson

Those Aqualis is oh my god, SEXY !!!









Are you using the AC D5's also, or those are just standard D5? I looked at your order page and didn't see it.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frank anderson*
> 
> Those Aqualis is oh my god, SEXY !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you using the AC D5's also, or those are just standard D5? I looked at your order page and didn't see it.


Yes. Its in the order log. first post, part #49120. under Aquacomputer section, you may have to scroll down in the table.
There are also multiple close up shots of it in previous posts.


----------



## Seanimus

Acrylic arrived. Black, Brown, Maroom and Mirror. The mirror is much thicker than the rest even though when you order you say 1/8".
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8273178479/

Long day at work and just started on the build. Going back to GPU second power cable at around 8"


----------



## sebkow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*


Few questions on your build. Where did you buy your light panel and acrylic?
Also on your Aquaero 5 ive been looking into buying one and haven't seen may reviews or unboxings on it? I dont know if you have used it yet but does have a flow sensor and tempurate sensor for water, stock? Or do I need to buy more things on top of it to use those features.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> EDIT: where are you splitting your power for the mini tamiya connectors from??


Missed that question on EDIT.
Joint 1: Between 2 AQ5's and branching the 12V and ground (-v) to the Vandal Bay and power source for LightBox
Joint 2: Behind mobo, straight from PSU going to AQ5 Pumps and then branching to USB hub and secondary PWM fans


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> Few questions on your build. Where did you buy your light panel and acrylic?
> Also on your Aquaero 5 ive been looking into buying one and haven't seen may reviews or unboxings on it? I dont know if you have used it yet but does have a flow sensor and tempurate sensor for water, stock? Or do I need to buy more things on top of it to use those features.


I'll be getting a thread up probably tomorrow about the process of creating the light panel. It is a very interesting one and I think OCN should have its own dedicated thread.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## sebkow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I'll be getting a thread up probably tomorrow about the process of creating the light panel. It is a very interesting one and I think OCN should have its own dedicated thread.
> Jeffinslaw


Did you make it :O?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> Did you make it :O?


That particular one is seanimus's light panel. I am in the process of building my own and I thought it would be beneficial for the whole community to know how to make it.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

I lol'ed on the one of the comments for this picture
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8275913224/

Suraia
11/19/2012
"You think you can take me human?"
"You're all hot air and empty threats orc, bring it on!"
"Best 2 out of 3 wins!"

*most intense game of rock, paper, scissors EVER begins*


----------



## sebkow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> That particular one is seanimus's light panel. I am in the process of building my own and I thought it would be beneficial for the whole community to know how to make it.
> Jeffinslaw


I would love that im in the process of finding somewhere that can laser etched any suggestions that are online even maybe? Also what are the best leds for this

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> I lol'ed on the one of the comments for this picture
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8275913224/
> Suraia
> 11/19/2012
> "You think you can take me human?"
> "You're all hot air and empty threats orc, bring it on!"
> "Best 2 out of 3 wins!"
> *most intense game of rock, paper, scissors EVER begins*


Dat RNG i love warcraft more then starcraft <3


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebkow*
> 
> I would love that im in the process of finding somewhere that can laser etched any suggestions that are online even maybe? Also what are the best leds for this
> Dat RNG i love warcraft more then starcraft <3


Here you go: http://www.overclock.net/t/1338522/official-ocn-slight-thread#post_18832961

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

Second GPU Power Cable:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8275333357/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8276397924/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8276397452/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8276397114/

I'll take out the white zip ties in a week or so, to see if it holds and then replace with something that is much smaller and black.


----------



## Seanimus

Nice with this new bench i can be on left side of bench.
Used Dremel Max Saw for cutting:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8276887170/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8275826379/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8275825775/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8276886540/
Half Inch U channel
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8275825527/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8276885648/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8276885266/
Sand together
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8276884914/
Sides done
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8275824093/
Dremel Saw Max through this also:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8275823815/
corners are perfect..no bleeding through on cuts
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8276883926/
Tested with 9V battery...can't hold the U channel in place but its a test:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8275823071/

Whats different from most sLight, is that the led is on three sides. So no matter where you drill holes you should get all squares lit up nicely.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks Deafboy...and you are really not helping me make up my mind on the pipes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...You keep having better ideas...Just going to hold off till you and Fuganater and B-Negative and others settle on something thats on the horizon that would be ideal.
> Need compression 75% sure on that, since I will probably move that around a bit; being my first mod and stuff. So Bitspower is out of the picture if I go that route.
> On EVGA 690 power ... probably going to be really short power connection....10" if i go this route. yellow wire there to see where 1 black wire goes. This is a prototype...but I believe this will work.
> And I think the bends the way they are...having exactly 10" point to point will be evenly spaced.
> eg: Top left from PSU (vertical) makes bend right and then goes bottom left (horizontal) on EVGA. I thought it might be more complicated where each pairs of wire will have to be different lengths by like 0.25" to account for bends.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8263403276/


Pipe and fittings stuff...


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks deaf boy
Kind of late to ask this as I already did the gpu power cabling. But is there a right angled connector for the power. Noticed that murderbox build he has wires going in straight and looks like he is using one


----------



## marodox

Hey, really nice build. I created an account just to sub!
Would you consider doing a guide on how you do your cables? They look really amazing!


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marodox*
> 
> Hey, really nice build. I created an account just to sub!
> Would you consider doing a guide on how you do your cables? They look really amazing!


Hey Marodox...thank you for creating an OCN account just to sub this thread ..

For the sleeving and crimping I would google Lutro0 youtube videos. He has one for different kinds and shows stuff.
For USB there isn't one, and I will make a guide later on. It's not that different..jsut different crimper and the way you insert the pins.
For making proper bends in tight spots, and getting cable lenghts exact so you don't have one wire sticking out...I kind of showed above with the wooden board. But I can do a better job of explaining that part in a guide.


----------



## marodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Hey Marodox...thank you for creating an OCN account just to sub this thread ..
> 
> For the sleeving and crimping I would google Lutro0 youtube videos. He has one for different kinds and shows stuff.
> For USB there isn't one, and I will make a guide later on. It's not that different..jsut different crimper and the way you insert the pins.
> For making proper bends in tight spots, and getting cable lenghts exact so you don't have one wire sticking out...I kind of showed above with the wooden board. But I can do a better job of explaining that part in a guide.


Ok cool, thanks a bunch!


----------



## solidshark91493

I also would love to see that! (And thanks for giving me a good ballpark area to go off of







)


----------



## Jeffinslaw

I was thinking about doingLEDs on three sides as well. Is there that big of a difference? I assume so.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I was thinking about doingLEDs on three sides as well. Is there that big of a difference? I assume so.
> Jeffinslaw


If you have a free 5.25" bay, you could pick up a cheap NZXT HUE RGB LED strip. I bought one that I was going to mangle in a half-assed attempt to learn electronics. But after seeing your light panel, I think it would be perfectly suited to that. Full RGB spectrum controls, and less than $40. This thing:

http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/case_accessories/hue

Not sure how well it would work, but it sounds like a match made in heaven on paper since you'd never be limited in color selection.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marodox*
> 
> Hey, really nice build. I created an account just to sub!
> Would you consider doing a guide on how you do your cables? They look really amazing!


There's a separate forum section - Cables & Sleeving - in the Case Mods & Cases forum -

Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions
Video Sleeving Guides

all Lutro0


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> There's a separate forum section - Cables & Sleeving - in the Case Mods & Cases forum -
> Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions
> Video Sleeving Guides
> all Lutro0


Ahh good
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> I also would love to see that! (And thanks for giving me a good ballpark area to go off of
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


You are welcome.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> I want to start reading this thread an the first thing I see is "total spend: $8,436.09" LOL, well now i'll start reading, wish me luck!


That spend is from september. Its a lot more now. So you may want to stop reading now! Maybe a budget thread or Dell.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I was thinking about doingLEDs on three sides as well. Is there that big of a difference? I assume so.
> Jeffinslaw


I think if you make a hole the light cannot pass through the laser etch. So the side leds will fill that gap.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> If you have a free 5.25" bay, you could pick up a cheap NZXT HUE RGB LED strip. I bought one that I was going to mangle in a half-assed attempt to learn electronics. But after seeing your light panel, I think it would be perfectly suited to that. Full RGB spectrum controls, and less than $40. This thing:
> http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/case_accessories/hue
> Not sure how well it would work, but it sounds like a match made in heaven on paper since you'd never be limited in color selection.


Hmm that changes things quite a bit for me. Less complicated. Guessing the HUE RGB can also do white.
I don't need a Vandal switch bay now. So I can return the band saw ...








Will keep Drill press though.+rep bart.
Edit: After looking at unboxing...wonder if it can do SMD 5050


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Hmm that changes things quite a bit for me. Less complicated. Guessing the HUE RGB can also do white.
> I don't need a Vandal switch bay now. So I can return the band saw ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will keep Drill press though.+rep bart.
> Edit: After looking at unboxing...wonder if it can do SMD 5050


I'm not sure how the color selection works. Should probably test this thing.







I never intended on using it, but bought it on impulse thinking I could find 3mm/5mm RGB LEDs to fit my Raystorm block + bay reservoir, and somehow hack up the controller to color change just those, and maybe a few more. But then I realized I have no electronics knowledge, and would probably ruin it in my first ever soldering attempt at age 42, so I chickened out.


----------



## Seanimus

Went to finish the slightbox frame with jbweld. The U Channel for mine is only on 3 sides. The open side below well have a metal sheet going across. Which will arrive tomorrow from online metals.
And I need to drill a hole on the U Channel (where the gap is on the open side and it has to straight down .... Need Drill Press.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8276883926/

Can't assemble drill press right away, as the bench is not ready ....Can't move it later once I put all assembled equipment. Stained it with oil based.
Side projects and distractions...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8279474970/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8278418239/

Will wipe of excess oil tomorrow (which doesn't get absorbed) and start assembling.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> I'm not sure how the color selection works. Should probably test this thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never intended on using it, but bought it on impulse thinking I could find 3mm/5mm RGB LEDs to fit my Raystorm block + bay reservoir, and somehow hack up the controller to color change just those, and maybe a few more. But then I realized I have no electronics knowledge, and would probably ruin it in my first ever soldering attempt at age 42, so I chickened out.


By any chance do you have a regular RGB Strip, which is not from NZXT, and can you connect it.
Its only 3V ...it will not blow. Tried using Google and wanted to see if anyone tried with regular RGB Strip which is Anode based.
Looks like size of the LED is the same from NZXT and regular RGB Strip which is 5050... Except that NZXT strip the leds are very far apart. Looks like 1 every 5 cms. Which will not work well with SLightbox.


----------



## Bart

Unfortunately sir, I don't have a regular strip. I just have the NZXT HUE. The distance between LEDs is indeed far apart, but I read that they are VERY bright. In some cases, too much for most people, so I don't think they've been selling a lot of em, as they appear to overpower other lighting in the case. Ya know what, screw this laziness. I'm going to power down and hook up that strip and see if I can get some pics of it. I'm a lousy cameraman, but I do have a tripod.

Back in a bit!

EDIT: they're pretty bright. Apparently the HUE has 5 brightness levels. I set it to max brightness and tried to get shots of some color examples. Not knowing the acrylic end of what you geniuses are doing, I have no idea if they'd be bright ENOUGH though. Have a look:

Default color (icy white):


Purple:


Light blue:


Nicer blue:


Green:


Deeper purple:


Red:


I just twisted knobs around randomly to find some color examples.







Don't know if this helps, but there it is. The colors are a bit brighter than those pics indicate.


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks. Brightness doesn't matter much on the SLIghtbox. The test of 3258 versus 5050 was minimal.
What matters is the distance between the LEDs. Would you say its like 1 every 4 inches? which probably will not work well on slightbox
I think I have to get this and test with RGB Strip. I hope this NZXT is not Cathode based strip.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks. Brightness doesn't matter much on the SLIghtbox. The test of 3258 versus 5050 was minimal.
> What matters is the distance between the LEDs. Would you say its like 1 every 4 inches? which probably will not work well on slightbox
> I think I have to get this and test with RGB Strip. I hope this NZXT is not Cathode based strip.


From center to center, the distance is about 83mm (roughly 3.25 inches). Not sure what you mean by cathode based strip. There's no DC inverter if that's what you mean. The 5.25 bay controller is sata power. Forgive me if I misinterpret something you're saying, as I have NO knowledge about this stuff!


----------



## modnoob

ill drop this here its should run of the pc psu as it is a twelve volt just trim the conectror and solder it to a molex or sata
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5M-300x-5050-SMD-RGB-LED-Strip-Controller-P-Supply-/110663087622 looks dense to me in the pics
heres another one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5M-300x-5050-SMD-RGB-LED-Strip-Controller-P-Supply-/110663087622


----------



## Seanimus

I have the SMD RGB 5050 strip thanks though.
The question was , will it work with NZXT


----------



## modnoob

it should they have the same 4 pin infernce


----------



## Bart

Those ebay strips aren't true RGB are they? I thought those were limited to just the colors on the remote buttons, so I assumed they weren't full RGB spectrum capable.

Sean: the strip is only a 4 pin connection (I can take pics of that if it will help). The NZXT controller knobs have push button functionality too, as well as dial function. Push dial 1 and it cycles through the 5 brightness levels. Push dial 2 and hold to power on/off the unit. Push dial 3 to cycle through 5 or 6 (didn't count) light modes. Strobe / fast random color changing / slow color changing, etc. You'd know better than I, but is all that done via the controller, or does there have to be anything special in the cable for that stuff?


----------



## Seanimus

All RGB are 4 pin. Cathode based and anode based just changes the way voltage is regulated. It's probably anode since for US market since its the most common here.
AQ 5 is cathode based output, and hence have to get a special amp which Jeak in Germany is building for me.
Thanks you don't have to take a picture. I have to test it.

Jeffinslaw what do you think-- you going RGB now?


----------



## Seanimus

Still thinking of RGB...not sure I want to different colors by changing them by walking over to a controller. Remote control idea from modnoob viable option; but how many times in a year would i change colors in 2013--probably few times when I have guests over. But still thinking..

Meanwhile, wiped the bench of oil stain that didnt get absorbed...took a long time ; guess I put too much.
But wood is like silk smooth..Drill Press assembled...
Missing chuck key so couldn't test out drill press live. Have to go to Sears tomorrow evening and argue with them to take one off the rack..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8283396538/

Band Saw assembled on left side. To change the blade I will just have to move the ladders resting on the wall and I have space there to change.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8283396230/
Couldn't figure out base is not levelled. Worked on that for a while....guess I have to see some youtube videos later on seeing on how to level.

Best part..Band saw electrical wire comes from right to left and band saw from left to right....perfect match to way bench is laid out:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8283395920/

Aluminium sheets and 1 12x12 steel sheet arrived:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8283395644/

Endless possibilites now on how to build top to cover the Slightbox with tools in place, and materials.

Going to do CPU power now, while I get tools figured out. This cable is long like 41". Damn STH10 is tall...Had to move my stuff to use whole board -- which is still short.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8282336577/


----------



## seross69

Seanimus448 all I can say is this build is amazing I have learned so much from it. I have spent all my spare time at work reading it and I am so jealous I am going to be starting a build soon or one day using this case i have grand plans but we will see how it all works out. Again your build is just amazing some things you did are not for me but they do look amazing and i have learned so much. I have subscribed and can't wait to learn more. I did not realize that you could use the USB like you did on the Aqua Computer Aquaro I thought you had to use the links so this is something for me to think about and will change my design and plans but for the better i think!! Well again one more time I am so jealous. Thank you.. wished they was some way i could turn all of your thread into a PDF document so i could read it easier and faster.


----------



## frank anderson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8283396538/


You always have the mallet in case a heated argument arise and you need a winning edge..









or you can whack your computer with it..

Taken from a quote in the movie "Armageddon", American components, Russian Components, ALL MADE IN TAIWAN! This is how we fix problems in the Russian Space Station, then proceeds to whack it with a wrench..


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Seanimus448 all I can say is this build is amazing I have learned so much from it. I have spent all my spare time at work reading it and I am so jealous I am going to be starting a build soon or one day using this case i have grand plans but we will see how it all works out. Again your build is just amazing some things you did are not for me but they do look amazing and i have learned so much. I have subscribed and can't wait to learn more. I did not realize that you could use the USB like you did on the Aqua Computer Aquaro I thought you had to use the links so this is something for me to think about and will change my design and plans but for the better i think!! Well again one more time I am so jealous. Thank you.. wished they was some way i could turn all of your thread into a PDF document so i could read it easier and faster.


Thank you! seross69.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frank anderson*
> 
> You always have the mallet in case a heated argument arise and you need a winning edge..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or you can whack your computer with it..
> Taken from a quote in the movie "Armageddon", American components, Russian Components, ALL MADE IN TAIWAN! This is how we fix problems in the Russian Space Station, then proceeds to whack it with a wrench..


Well how about a quiz....:
1) Rubber Mallet is used on the Drill Press and is normal and part of assembly instructions. Tell me where
2) Hammer was used on the wall last night for something specfic to assemply-. Tell me where


----------



## goodtobeking

1. it is used to tighten the belt on the pulleys
2. was used to nail in wire hangers on the wall


----------



## Seanimus

You got one right


----------



## goodtobeking

Did you have to assemble the pulleys yourself?? if so I would say thats where


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Well how about a quiz....:
> 1) Rubber Mallet is used on the Drill Press and is normal and part of assembly instructions. Tell me where
> 2) Hammer was used on the wall last night for something specfic to assemply-. Tell me where


Rubber mallet used to tap a ball joint separator to cause the chuck to drop from the spindle.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Did you have to assemble the pulleys yourself?? if so I would say thats where


Pulleys are preassembled. And there are knobs to tighten the belt. Given first day at it, i wouldn't have used it there.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Rubber mallet used to tap a ball joint separator to cause the chuck to drop from the spindle.


This is correct. +rep Alan! and reverse-- used to put chuck in place.
[Edit] Can't rep Forum Moderators..never noticed that...o well...experience with age is all i can say Alan--hope that is sufficient..and meant it like fine wine...before anyone says something nasty


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Pulleys are preassembled. And there are knobs to tighten the belt. Given first day at it, i wouldn't have used it there.
> This is correct. +rep Alan! and reverse-- used to put chuck in place.
> [Edit] Can't rep Forum Moderators..never noticed that...o well...experience with age is all i can say Alan--hope that is sufficient..and meant it like fine wine...before anyone says something nasty


Actually, not meant to ask for or offer rep, so just as well.


----------



## Seanimus




----------



## whitek

whoa that workshop is starting to look awesome, that drill press is ultra handy

question on the *Aqualis Reservoir* is there a gasket on the top and bottom of the glass tube? I would have sworn there was just one at the top, but i had the bottom leaking out on me. is there just one gasket but it goes on the bottom? i haven't found these aquacomputer manuals too helpful


----------



## Seanimus

Rubber gasket is inside the Reservoir when you first get it. This rubber gasket is for the top.
When you first open the reservoir, and take that silly manual out and rubber gasket...you will see the bottom gasket kind of all the way inside the groove.
Note you don't need the rubber gasket for the top for vertical installations. Not that I saw.

I'll repost post#223 here since I have got many questions on this:
"
Got few PM's on how to install Aqualis/open on to Adaptor..So step by step here. This is my second time, so I know what I did wrong first time.
Left Aqualis, center AQ D5 Adaptor (no case, but who cares), and right AQ D5 Pump: Front right are the yellow AQ pump installs...Can I use these on vertical installs??
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8110001768/

After package is opened, just need pump metal brace and ring, 4 M3x12 mm screws ( i think), the manual MPS G1/4 . Leave rest in bag
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8110000244/

The aqualis manual is in the reservoir. Duh. So take glass part with top and turn counter clockwise, while holding base:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8109988431/

Take top G1/4 off center tube and place on left hole off adaptor (if you want to reuse). Also attach the aqualis to top part of Adaptor now. You don't want to attach with glass on, otherwise your turns with Allen key will take a long time:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8109997164/

Insert the ring on pump and place while flat:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8109995398/

Tighten till the brace for pump goes all the down.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8109993778/

Place the ring in the Aqualis to top part of aqualis, and press down with the glass tube:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8109992280/

Turn the Aqualis clockwise till its tight. Place the manual MPS pressure release on top of Aqualis in the G1/4
Trying these non-vibration AQ bolts here :
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8109980487/

Left is with rubber pads from Aqualis and right is with separate order:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8109988902/

"


----------



## whitek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Rubber gasket is inside the Reservoir when you first get it. This rubber gasket is for the top.
> When you first open the reservoir, and take that silly manual out and rubber gasket...you will see the bottom gasket kind of all the way inside the groove.
> Note you don't need the rubber gasket for the top for vertical installations. Not that I saw.


hi seanimus - thanks for the post, I'm still kind of confused at this. ok there is one gasket - [even though the manual says clearly gaskets] does it go at the top (1)?
I had it at (1), and the water just immediately seeped out at (2)


----------



## Seanimus

There are 2 gaskets. One is "preinstalled".
If you have only one gasket use it for the bottom.
Edit: Only Vertical installation possible with that
Bottom gasket is shown here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8109997164/


----------



## Seanimus

Hmm I didn't post last night.
Was hammered..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8293296298/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8292243423/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8292242975/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8292242513/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8293294536/

Stopped here last night, as I was messing up --lol
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8292241883/

All done this evening.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8292241307/

Zip Ties and will see if they get trained in a week or so..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8293292836/

Makes bend and runs down that groove at the back of the case
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8292240133/

Comes in from here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8292239891/

With Slightbox that curve will go away.
Have to drill another hole to the left ...for second CPU power which goes here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8293292030/

Brake arrived:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8292241089/

Didn't realize my Drill Press doesn't take 1/2" shank into the chuck for 3/4" drill bit (its big)... sigh...have to use that horrible hole saw:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8292240757/


----------



## whitek

señor seanimus,

I'm thinking the 'preinstalled' gasket of the aqualis reservoir is on the bottom. check this pic. maybe i didnt screw on that fuzzwad tight enough


and so they only give you one actual gasket and that is for the top? so many damn parts on this build I lost track of things.
this is the top that screws on to the reservoir glass tube.



i needs to get me some of that mdpc goodness..
whats that red crimper for?


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitek*
> 
> whats that red crimper for?


Its a wire stripper.


----------



## Seanimus

Second CPU Power cable.
Spent an hour looking in my house for 8pin cpu connector (black). Couldn't find it. Continued with creating sleeves and crimps. Will get from MicroCenter tomorrow.
Ofcourse after I buy it, I will find the ones I bought previously :

Don't have 16AWG Brown wire. Orange will have to do, not going to put electrical tape on it.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8296243822/

41" again:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8295193199/

You see its perfect, when sleeve is fully stretched. Ofcourse all your finger tips will be burnt after finishing 8 of these cables..Calluses form eventually...its easier now than a month ago.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8296243210/

Don't have any more black 16AWG...just ton of red and yellow...And I still have mobotherboard cable to do, which will be like 45" long.
Won't have much time tomorrow with running errands/shoping, but lets see what I can get done this weekend.


----------



## seross69

Seanimus,

Everytime i see pictures of your work bench i see nice sheets printed and i bet laminated attached to the wall for the pin out. do you have these in PDF or JPG any type of file actually. I have looked and have copied and downloaded some but they dont look as nice as yours!!!!!!!


----------



## Seanimus

I made that in Microsoft Excel by copying information from various websites.
I thought I shared the link for the build connectors and realized I couldn't copy and paste into spreadsheet on Google Drive.
Anyways downloaded the google drive pc and uploaded. Try this link.
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B8b6QWTikIrvMkRaZGpSVzZ5TG8


----------



## Seanimus

Suggestion from fellow modder to rotate EVGA 690 Hydrocopper logo:
Thanks to Switchblade ..








http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8298105185/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8298104625/

Got connectors from MicroCenter after gruesome argument that there such a thing such as a 8pin connector (folks there arguing it only comes with powersupply). Finally found someone knowledgeble.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8299158566/

Now 2 of them running in that groove at the back. I don't know how the motherboard cable is going to run. 45" cable run is like 75 feet of cabling. So rethinking.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8299158026/

This entry point into the STH10 from lower compartment. I know I have to make a hole on the left side. But how must i do it...Make a circular hole and then just join the existing cut out with new circular hole...make a wider rounded edge rectangle...is what I am thinking at the moment.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8299157722/


----------



## marodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Got connectors from MicroCenter after gruesome argument that there such a thing such as a 8pin connector (folks there arguing it only comes with powersupply). Finally found someone knowledgeble.


It's always a hit or miss /w their employees.


----------



## seross69

Thanks a lot for the link Seanimus and your pinout sheet dose look a lot better than the others i have found or made sp thanks again. I really love what your doing with your build and look fwd to updates. I know you told somewhere in the thread and i think i remember reading it but did i quick look and did not see the make and model of your stripper.

Do you mind posting the make and model of the stripper on here again sorry to bother you I know you have better things to do than repeat information, but you know how the mind and patience gets as you get older or i do anyway. lol I have used a couple of these at work and home and was never satisfied with them so you seemed so happy with yours I thought i might try it.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marodox*
> 
> It's always a hit or miss /w their employees.


Yep. There is no logic in how they hire these guys. The guy that was knowledgeable was the only one sweating (that too in winter) ...as he was running around a lot. poor kid.
Dozen other punks behind counter doing nothing-know nothing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Thanks a lot for the link Seanimus and your pinout sheet dose look a lot better than the others i have found or made sp thanks again. I really love what your doing with your build and look fwd to updates. I know you told somewhere in the thread and i think i remember reading it but did i quick look and did not see the make and model of your stripper.
> Do you mind posting the make and model of the stripper on here again sorry to bother you I know you have better things to do than repeat information, but you know how the mind and patience gets as you get older or i do anyway. lol I have used a couple of these at work and home and was never satisfied with them so you seemed so happy with yours I thought i might try it.


I posted the information below , along with some other stuff I got in the same order. But where are going to use these parts. If you are planning on custom sleeving. Then you need to watch the Lutro0 videos first. At the end of one of the videos, be mentions the parts to get (first 3 below):


Knipex 1242195 7-3/4-Inch Universal Insulation Stripper - AWG 7-32
Extra Small Side Cutter
Scotch Precision Scissor, 8-Inches (1448)
Red Devil 1170 Plexiglass Cutting Tool
3M 3311 Foil Tape, 2" Width, 10 yd Length, Silver


----------



## seross69

Thanks for the Info Seanimus. Have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year..


----------



## seross69

I am at work in Indonesia for about 2.5 to 3.5 more weeks so it is already Christmas Eve here and i want to

WISH EVERYONE A MERRY CHRISTMAS AND FOR YOU TO ENJOY THE HOLIDAYS WITH FAMILY


----------



## Seanimus

15 Unnecessarily Sexy Christmas Costumes
Business Insider misprinted...definitely necessary...

Sooo....I couldn't find my drill bits. Got new ones from home depot:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8302856984/

Got L instead of U channel. By the way I built those steps going from garage to house in 2007. and cut out the entire stair stringer with 2x12" compressed wood.:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8302863054/
Piece of crap.. didn't like the JB Weld thing. Sure its good with 4 sides.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8301808349/

3/8" holes in new workbench:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8302861506/

Shoot, I missed a lot a photos in between these shots..but aluminium sheet was all marked for new SLIghtBox:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8301807417/

I didn't like these F-Clamps..:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8302860392/

Bent outer edges:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8301806263/

Finished U on two sides and then moved to third. I have no idea why..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8301805839/

My first bending thing...never used it before.
Testing it out...can only get LEDs on long and one short side..If I need 3 sides, I have to trim the Acrylic another 1/8":
But it fits nice....
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8301805215/

This is going to be the top...Have to cut out a shape now on top with JigSaw.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8301804639/

Perfect 90;
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8302857572/

Going to return the Band Saw. Scared the hell out of me in the morning. Thought I was going to lose my neck like the Omen.
Changed to 1/8" 14TPI blade, and so the top wheel has to adjusted otherwise the blade doesn't feed in correctly. The damn thing snapped out and made a large sound. Too old to get those kind of body jumps backwards going.. Also the Blade is a70" circle. For me to use the band saw on the Slightbox or any material where the cut is on the inside, I have to get a band-saw welder. Getting too complicated for me.

I just need to make the Top cover of the SLightbox on my own, and not have someone else do it....After all this is my build.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

That's an awesome way to do the aluminum casing for the sLight! I think the JBWeld would have looked okay if you would have sanded it down after it dried and painted it.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

3 sided wall enclosure are very flimsy when done that way. The strength for the enclosure would only come when the top piece that is laid down and screwed/glued to the 3 sided U channel.
The top piece in 3 sided and 4 sided is going to be a few mm off the acrylic which I was not happy with.

A 4 side wall enclosure with JB Weld would be fine, which is what you have. I think.

The way I did it, with 3 sided bends, I can have the light intentionally bleed from the 'unbent' side to get another effect going.
Additionally it will withstand a lot of pressure and pushing and pulling when I start to get the tubing/pipes going through it. Not to mention 16 AWG wire through SLightbox which will add to stress on the sides due to the bend.


----------



## ForestGirl111

Pretending to work this month Seanimus? I see you more on your build than in person.








Awesome detail as always. +rep


----------



## Seanimus

Ahh Sorry couldn't be in Basking Ridge to wish you Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays and hopefully SameTime ping was enough


----------



## Seanimus

Too lazy to take new photos...reposting old ones.
I was trying to figure out where to make the next small hole cut out for 2nd CPU power to come in.
Then decided to expand it a bit, so it will go nicely into SLightbox.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8299157722/

Why do I even need those 3 fan cut outs to be left there hidden under SLigtbox? Its not holding anything any place for any lateral stress. The main parts are the front, back and sides angled strenghtening points.
At most leave a 1" rib in the middle. Just annoying at this point as it would make tubing (no pipes in lower compartment), much easier, coming into the SLightbox.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8292239891/

For the top...even that is not needed 3 fan holes. Can get a nice view from top looking inside if i remove that.
The PSU has its own bracket.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8276397924/


----------



## Seanimus

Important decision to make on where to make holes for pipes to go at end of this post. Unlike other stuff, once I drill a hole in acrylic there is no turning back unless i redo the whole acrylic piece again.

Continuing from last evening (finished last minute christmas shopping as well yesterday afternoon).
As you can see don't need that the top partition to be totally original. Can do a cutout and finally see some of the top part of the most beautiful graphics card ever... the EVGA 690 hydro opper.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8308213693/

All three circular holes will get cut out in a big rounded rectangle; even the one under the PSU (top most 120mm circle):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8308212603/

Damn that is nice...cables are so trained:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8309263734/

*Someone give me some options on how to mount this on acrylic...That velcro thing sucks. It cannot hold the stress that rigid cables brings to them. Cannot drill..a hole into PCB. There must be some other option??*
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8309263212/

Had a spare 12x24x 0.04" aluminium sheet , and decided to redo the slightbox frame because 1) had to prove to my advisor from mdpc on bending; that I can do it 45 degree cuts at end.. 2) the U was more than 0.5" so there was some play with acrylic and 3) wanted to reclaim my 1/8" so I could get my third side LED in there..

Did few things different sometime, having learned few lessons for my very first ever bending.
1) Did the markings inside the house, and not in the garage (was too cold). 2) took my time and made sure sheet was at least 90 degree cut on one side (have to make sure about that). 3) Did not account for thickness of the sheet in my markings----reason was that I didn't know aluminium stretches during bending: that was the reason you do bending before cutting out a large hole on the top; it will stretch differently if you do large cut outs and then bend.

Cough...black label scotch going as well:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8308210451/

Got that framing ruler and few other gifts from home depot:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8309261610/

Scored the lines with another gift from son--dewalt knife:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8309260322/

This Demel Max Saw cut was so much better with the framing ruler as guide:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8309259958/

Did the angled cuts with the Bosch Jig Saw. This time I remembere to set the angle to 0..as i want the jig saw blade to be stiff:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8309259106/

Ok these shots I did not take the previous time during bending. *So this part is more a guide.*
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8308207067/

Line it up, score it with the utility knife like 20 times in total. 10 inside the house where its nice and warm. and 10 times just before bending. And bend. very easy this way:http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8308206613/

Move to next line below...And bend:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8308202975/

Do the same thing on second side..This time you can see the 45 degree cuts meeting up:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8308202339/

For third side, i moved to other side of bender
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8308201941/

And bend...this time the 45 degree cuts didn't line up properly:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8308201529/

No worries. Bend it upwards with pliers and file it down..(did a bit too much; but it will get covered with filling compound later on):
Huge difference compared to previous design and bending (old one on left):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8308201199/

This is exactly 0.5" . Old one on left:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8309252218/

Reclaimed the spacing for the third siding LED as its a bit longer now (new on on the inside ofcourse):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8309257772/

90 on both sides..:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8308197651/

Another gift; from wife this time...just showing ones that are for garage..Safetly glasses. Old ones had paint on them and I haven't used them in years. New ones from home depot and are 3M..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8309247986/

On top of the Caselabs partition. removed the tape....(next time I will remember to take the inside tabe out before bending. what a pain to take that tape out after bending.







)
Shot below is the inside view of the SLightbox:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8308196145/
Ok guide on bending over...

Now, top view:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8309247024/

OK this is the important decision to make...
2 ins and 2 outs to radiator can be here.
Black ones on the right side are the CPU power connectors coming out of lightbox.
Bitspower one below (front left) represents the fact that it can straight into the radiator in port with no addidtional turns.
The other represented by monsoon will have additional fittings below light box.
One way to do this is as placement shown below...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8309246302/

Other way would be something as follows:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8308194491/

*Which one>?>?*
The second choice above means, that I will have tubing running in between the radiators and meeting up on the right somewhere...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8309245550/


----------



## Seanimus

With Tamiya connectors, I don't need the bottom hole to be so big now. Before it was for Molex.
With RGB amp, I don't need the hole above that. Before I made it there, due to the cable length to AQ5 from behind motherboard. WHich means I can run it in the same hole as Pump Power with Tamiya connector.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8310851180/

And probably more consolidation of these cutouts...
Which means I should check to see cost of replacement center wall with CaseLabs. If reasonable....Should I get it in *black*; for my case?
Would give it a nice contrast.

Probably the fan holders on left here will stand out and get 2 of those in black as well...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8269154376/

...what do you guys think?


----------



## Bra1an ita

Hi seanimus.. you do very good job whit this build.. impressive..









i have question for you about sleeving.. you order the sleeving from MDPC ?
I also have to make an order from MDPC,I'm not sure of the color you please confirm if I understand right?
The red is UV reactive?



and if you want look my build log you fint here.. http://www.overclock.net/t/1336676/build-log-f-o-r-m-u-l-a-5-devil-inside

Hi bro and thanx in advance


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bra1an ita*
> 
> Hi seanimus.. you do very good job whit this build.. impressive..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have question for you about sleeving.. you order the sleeving from MDPC ?
> I also have to make an order from MDPC,I'm not sure of the color you please confirm if I understand right?
> The red is UV reactive?
> 
> and if you want look my build log you fint here.. http://www.overclock.net/t/1336676/build-log-f-o-r-m-u-l-a-5-devil-inside
> Hi bro and thanx in advance


Hi, left to right..
Shade 19, Color-x and copper brown.
Nothing is UV reactive. which is the way I like it.
Use this PDF for colors...I put everything in Excel few months back, from MDPC to keep track of colors. Sharing it now..


----------



## Bra1an ita

Thax for Pdf file bro.. very useful,I thought the color to the left was red.. if possible I would like to ask your opinion..
I have Maximus V Formula "ROG color" all Corsair fan,and blood red coolant,what color would look better in your opinion?
RED or COLOR-X ???

i post a pictrue,the build is not finish but is for give you an idea of the color..



I appreciate the help and thanks in advance..


----------



## Seanimus

Photos are deceiving when it comes to color. I would order 1 m of both red and color-x an then make your decision after matching with red on asus.
It's also your personality and age in which we make choices on colors. 10 years ago I would have gone different colors for my build.
Since you mentioned UV reactive I am guessing you like bright, in which case go red.


----------



## Bra1an ita

ok,I asked if it was because I'm looking for red sleeving NO UV..








anyway thanks for the help bro


----------



## freitz

Build looks great keep it up.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Build looks great keep it up.


Thanks.

Don't know if I ever posted my existing computer from the dinosaur days...
Anter 1200 case, with P5n32-E SLI, with 4GB Ram, and NVIDIA SLI 8600... Was hot back then in 2006..I think i upgraded mobo when its original casing of Alienware had the watercooling pump fail.
Well this whole thing is lame today...could barely play WoW with medium graphics setting. Ultra was out of the question.
Check out that beautiful cabling, looks like Spartacus gutted someone.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8312285137/

Hence the upgrade...everyone starts somewhere...haha.. no nasty comments..!
Back to current build
Got this mdf sheet...incase i need to cut without vibration..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8313344722/

Drilled two holes on inner coners:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8312294147/

Didn't use the MDF, since i had this part pretty fixed on plywood:

Two screws through 120 MM Fan holes..and 2 screws on the L shaped guide..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8313343562/

Cut through existing cut outs for cabling
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8313342992/

Didn't realize half way through that I ate through the metal blade pretty good. Metal circular blades become smaller as you use them.
This applies to the large circular saws as well.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8313342516/

Flipped it over and did other side..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8312291831/

Not sure what happened above...but my guide in the center kind of didn't give me the exact cut, and it got curved a bit..

Used jigsaw for last cut. This time the guide (which is the L aluminium shape ), I put across to stop the outer parts from rattling and screwed them into the plywood.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8312291149/

All cut out:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8313335734/

Washed and filed...Not going to paint the inside...You can see the small curved cut on the left side.
This will not be seen, as the SLightbox will go on top.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8313335368/

But I can't afford to make the similar mistake for the top partition...That has to be perfect.


----------



## Avonosac

Subbed!!

Well, I subbed a while ago, I just didn't post until I finished reading all 68 pages of this beast. This has been a great read and you all have given me great ideas about a custom SFF build I want to put together. I will be PMing you at some point in the near future (2-3 months) about where you had your etching done for the lightbox.

I think my boss might be glad this build log was *only* 68 pages of hardware porn, I might have taken the full day to read the thread if it was any longer. Great work! It looks like you are nearing completion of the build so keep up the good work and I really look forward to seeing the final results.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Subbed!!
> Well, I subbed a while ago, I just didn't post until I finished reading all 68 pages of this beast. This has been a great read and you all have given me great ideas about a custom SFF build I want to put together. I will be PMing you at some point in the near future (2-3 months) about where you had your etching done for the lightbox.
> I think my boss might be glad this build log was *only* 68 pages of hardware porn, I might have taken the full day to read the thread if it was any longer. Great work! It looks like you are nearing completion of the build so keep up the good work and I really look forward to seeing the final results.


Hey there, I suggest you go check out the Official OCN sLight thread, something I started to document the build process of the famous sLight panel. Here is the link: http://www.overclock.net/t/1338522/official-ocn-slight-thread

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Avonosac

Thanks for the link Jeff, I saw you mention a few times you were going to set up an official thread, but I didn't remember seeing it linked before.

I now need to get my thoughts together for my SFF box, and put together some sketchups to see what I can do with it.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Thanks for the link Jeff, I saw you mention a few times you were going to set up an official thread, but I didn't remember seeing it linked before.
> I now need to get my thoughts together for my SFF box, and put together some sketchups to see what I can do with it.


Just added the link in my sig!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Subbed!!
> Well, I subbed a while ago, I just didn't post until I finished reading all 68 pages of this beast. This has been a great read and you all have given me great ideas about a custom SFF build I want to put together. I will be PMing you at some point in the near future (2-3 months) about where you had your etching done for the lightbox.
> I think my boss might be glad this build log was *only* 68 pages of hardware porn, I might have taken the full day to read the thread if it was any longer. Great work! It looks like you are nearing completion of the build so keep up the good work and I really look forward to seeing the final results.


Thanks Avonosac...and nice of your boss to allow you to spend some time doing some light reading. ..you will enjoy the rest of the build over here... as things are now falling in place faster. Also honoroed that you put my build in your signature.

Too cold to work today in the garage. Currently 40 in the garage and like 20 outside with the wind in the northern NJ.
Waiting for electric heater to warm up the garage, if it can keep up, and might do upper compartment.


----------



## cpachris

On days when its too cold to work.....I vote that you post some new FG pictures.


----------



## seross69

I second the FG pictures!!


----------



## Seanimus

Ok Top partition:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8317358648/

This time used the angled side of the L shaped aluminium as the guide:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8317358258/

The heat this dremel saw max makes is not good...had to stop for a bit in middle to let the blade cool down:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8317357896/

Other side, have no choice but to use JigSaw...and had to put the plywood on right side of bench....The reason is the angled bends at the end of partition makes this the only position, and I have nothing to rest the dremel max saw on the right..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8317357562/

Cut some ribs to hold it in place:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8317357188/

You can see the aluminium scrap that flies off is different in dremel max saw and jig saw. Jig saw are bigger pieces on the right. Dremel max saw is like burnt aluminium powder on left.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8317356356/

Which means more filing on the jigsaw side at the end:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8317355886/

Third side has to jig saw:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8317355454/

Wet sanded it down...really very smooth when you wet sand it..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8317355106/

Back is the top, and the front is the bottom partition of the Case Labs STH10, with no 120 MM fan cut outs..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8317354796/


----------



## henry9419

looking good, you got me itching again for a caselabs case, picking up a 3770k later and 16gb of ram, not totally sure what mobo yet, then i gotta start working on a case and gpus maybe once i get my case ill drop it off for you since were both in north jersey







i second the FG pics too







actually im sure most here do


----------



## ForestGirl111

I'm flattered guys.
Here's one of my niece opening her gift for the holidays - a pillow pet. What little girl doesn't want a unicorn?!

Happy New Year everyone!


----------



## ForestGirl111

Loving the build so much I've updated my signature.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForestGirl111*
> 
> Loving the build so much I've updated my signature.


Loving the build so much, or loving the attention you're getting in it?

Or D all of the above?









A few pages back he posted this for the signature blocks of anyone who wanted to share it.

Cheers!

Code:



Code:


[CENTER]:clock:[URL="http://www.overclock.net/t/1295989/build-log-caselabs-sth10-aquacomputer-evga-seanimus448"][b]CaseLabs STH10 - Aquacomputer EVGA - "Seanimus448"[/b][/URL]:clock:[/CENTER]


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForestGirl111*
> 
> Loving the build so much I've updated my signature.










See you on Monday to wish you happy new year. If not then Wednesday for sure.

Returned the Band Saw and Drill Press (because it didn't take 0.5" thick drill bits in the chuck). The Drill Press that takes 0.5" are like $50 more and much taller and bigger. And I don't want that.
Rather just pay $20 to a local store and use theirs per shot.
Atleast a refund from Sears for like $400. Which should make 2013 start off better..









Picked up few items from Home Depot (Metric Tap and Die) and the NTE 16 AWG black wire from the owner of NTE whose main hub is in NJ. He saw pictures of my build log as well.
Gave me a big break.
If you buy 16 or 18 AWG from Amazon or other distributors, chances are that it is NTE.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8319557207/

Confirmed the partitions are fine after the cut out...it wasn't used to hold the mobo wall in place and it was actually the reverse.
Trying to line the holes up with the inlet to radiator. It could have gone in straight..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8319559239/
...to the radiator closest to you in the shot (not the one at the back, because the mobo wall is right on top)..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8320620112/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8319558495/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8320619252/

After all that measuring and checking and rechecking...alas...it will be no where in straight line from the mobo wall Pump/Res adaptor...even if I move that ...it needs atleast 1.5" movement to right for me to run a perfectly straight right angled bend into the radiator.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8320618750/

So back to the drawing board...Thinking..

This has to be done now...Because you would want to make the holes in the slightbox with top aluminium part still there (before it gets cut out).
Once the Slightbox aluminium top has the right holes in place I have to transfer those circles with pen to acrylic below, and then only proceed to cutting out the acrylic. That is one time deal,...no mistakes allowed; otherwise scrap.


----------



## Seanimus

Dry run using MDF under instead of acrylic:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8324634258/
Pilot holes
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8323573717/
Would have helped if took the wrapping off the hole saw:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8324632648/
Used spade blade for the wood...the bi-metal hole saw was causing fumes on MDF..1" done for CPU power
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8323572671/

To remove holesaw utility drill:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8324631446/

3/4" do only half way..as other side has to be 1" for Bitspower fitting
Didn't do that for the other side..now no pilot hole to go through for the first pair of 3/4" I did...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8323571585/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8324630508/

Other side:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8324630014/

Now I can see the EVGA 690 hydro from top:
Put PSU back on:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8324629642/

Starting to put cables back in place:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8323569737/

GPU power cables back...Bitspower bulk head inplace:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8324628692/

Have to take a better lit shot of this...but right Bitspower fitting lines up with Inlet of the Radiator on top...The only place where underneath there will be no tubing:
This was a pain in the ass to get lined up...measuring and remeasuring..like 1 hr:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8324627866/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8324627388/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8323567619/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8324626384/


----------



## solidshark91493

I want your gfx cards so bad.. D:


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> I want your gfx cards so bad.. D:












Went to mall...bigger sales after christmas...returned some of the christmas gifts for wife and got more for almost same price..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8327636273/
100% Cashmere for my computer....wife wasn't happy i wrapped it around computer








http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8328760956/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8327703133/

So back to build..Dry run of tubing..
Tried for hours to put the flow meter under...but just didn't want to work out...had to move to middle compartment.
These are the USB ones..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8328694262/
Underside of above:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8328691596/

Just did GPU loop...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8327634619/

Underside of above:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8328692718/

Another shot of underside, but just want to show the fittings that will go into the other slot for CPU ... there will be no tubing there..straight.
And it lines up perfectly.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8327633445/

Top view:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8328690704/

Another good thing about cutting out top partition of STH10...i have access to fill port now on other reservoir:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8327631605/

I could do following changes...Move CPU Flow Meter back a bit..
and move GPU Flow Meter from right side to be in front of CPU flow meter and little bit to the right...where the X is on the blue tape..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8328693736/
This will make the tube going to GPU card perfectly straight..as opposed to the following in first shot..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8328694262/


----------



## marodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Went to mall...bigger sales after christmas...returned some of the christmas gifts for wife and got more for almost same price..
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8327636273/
> 100% Cashmere for my computer....wife wasn't happy i wrapped it around computer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8328760956/
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8327703133/
> So back to build..Dry run of tubing..
> Tried for hours to put the flow meter under...but just didn't want to work out...had to move to middle compartment.
> These are the USB ones..
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8328694262/
> Underside of above:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8328691596/
> Just did GPU loop...
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8327634619/
> Underside of above:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8328692718/
> Another shot of underside, but just want to show the fittings that will go into the other slot for CPU ... there will be no tubing there..straight.
> And it lines up perfectly.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8327633445/
> Top view:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8328690704/
> Another good thing about cutting out top partition of STH10...i have access to fill port now on other reservoir:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8327631605/
> I could do following changes...Move CPU Flow Meter back a bit..
> and move GPU Flow Meter from right side to be in front of CPU flow meter and little bit to the right...where the X is on the blue tape..
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8328693736/
> This will make the tube going to GPU card perfectly straight..as opposed to the following in first shot..
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8328694262/


Those fittings look AMAZING!


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marodox*
> 
> Those fittings look AMAZING!


C'mon man, don't quote all those pictures. Especially when they are in the post directly above yours. Use spoiler tags


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> C'mon man, don't quote all those pictures. Especially when they are in the post directly above yours. Use spoiler tags


This for sure. But yeah I love my monsoon fittings. They are the only thing holding me back from going all copper. That and all the work it takes lol. Great update there Seanimus. Can we get a shot of the full case. So we, or at least I, can get a good idea on the tubing routing you are planning.


----------



## Seanimus

Code:

Marodox, be a nice guy and edit your post and delete all my images..or a forum moderator...that is huge number of pictures duplicated...thanks.

Edit: thanks alancsalt for fixing


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> This for sure. But yeah I love my monsoon fittings. They are the only thing holding me back from going all copper. That and all the work it takes lol. Great update there Seanimus. Can we get a shot of the full case. So we, or at least I, can get a good idea on the tubing routing you are planning.


Yea I can try to take a shot..but will be quite difficult to get the "full picture" as it is divided into compartments/sections.

*For GPU:*
Reservoir (with fill port above which I can fill from middle compartment), Pump Adaptor below.
Pump adaptor Out to Slightbox with Monsoon.
Slightbox has Bulk head with _*Monsoon to*_ Radiator In.
Radiator Out 1 under the case with BitsPower drain valve.
Radiator Out 2 goes to Slightbox Bulk head on right.
Slightbox has G1/4 adaptor to AQ flow Meter
AQ Flow Meter for GPU to 690 with probably _*Black Monsoon*_ Fittings.
GPU to Pump Adaptor In

*For CPU:*
Reservoir (with fill port above which I can fill from top compartment), Pump Adaptor below.
Pump adaptor Out to Slightbox with Monsoon.
Slightbox has Bulk head with _*Direct Fittings*_ to Radiator In.
Radiator Out 1 under the case with BitsPower drain valve.
Radiator Out 2 goes to Slightbox Bulk head on right.
Slightbox has G1/4 adaptor to AQ flow Meter
AQ Flow Meter to CPU with _*Fittings only (no Monsoon*)_
CPU to Pump Adaptor In
.
*Edit*: Changes in Fittings in Italics for the 2 loops. So in total GPU loop has 10 Monsoon Fittings. CPU loop has 6 Monsoon Fittings (lesser due to direct Bitspower fittings). Thats the biggest difference


----------



## Seanimus

Just got these to finish the CPU loop ..whenever package from FrozenCPU arrives//

2xBitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 45 Degree G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB45R)
4xBitspower G1/4 Male to Female Extender - 25mm - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C62)
2xBitspower G1/4 Male to Female Extender - 20mm - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C61)
2xBitspower G 1/4" Fitting Spacer - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C25)
4x Bitspower G1/4" White Rotary 90° G1/4" Adapter (BP-DW90R)
1xIndustrial High-Speed Steel British Standard Thread Tap - 1/4"-19 BSPP
2xBitspower Deep Bold Red O-Ring - (10 Pack) (BP-WTP-010-DRD)

Probably missing something, should check loop again
EDIT: got these as well to connect to female part of extender
4xBitspower Mini Dual G1/4" Male / Male Low Profile Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C42)
2xBitspower G 1/4 Matte Black Male to Male Rotary Extender (BP-MBRG)

Have no idea on how I will do fixed fittings when FlowMeter and CPU are fixed...probably need one side to be moveable to get it going...haha..my first time with liquid cooling system


----------



## socketus

That's good that you got the wife that cashmere - 100% - sweater.

That's bad that you draped it over the CL case. But totally OCN









Bloomingdales ...







o to be in the NYC area


----------



## marodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Code:


Marodox, be a nice guy and edit your post and delete all my images..or a forum moderator...that is huge number of pictures duplicated...thanks.
Edit: thanks alancsalt for fixing

Sorry guys, did this on my phone and forgot to remove the pics.


----------



## seross69

Amazing build i am enjoying watching so much and have learned so much from you. I cant wait to start my own..


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> That's good that you got the wife that cashmere - 100% - sweater.
> That's bad that you draped it over the CL case. But totally OCN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bloomingdales ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> o to be in the NYC area


Its a scarf..hah...yeah wife still not happy, asking where I left the bloomingdales top cover..fell over, and found it earlier this evening.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> C'mon man, don't quote all those pictures. Especially when they are in the post directly above yours. Use spoiler tags


Thanks for pointing that out. Didn't know what was going at first, when I was scrollign down fast...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marodox*
> 
> Sorry guys, did this on my phone and forgot to remove the pics.


Well luckily AlanCSalt fixed it...no worries.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Amazing build i am enjoying watching so much and have learned so much from you. I cant wait to start my own..


Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> This for sure. But yeah I love my monsoon fittings. They are the only thing holding me back from going all copper. That and all the work it takes lol. Great update there Seanimus. Can we get a shot of the full case. So we, or at least I, can get a good idea on the tubing routing you are planning.


Here is one shot of the GPU loop in the middle compartment:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8331233619/

Here's the bottom drain port Bitspower drain valve:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8331234583/

From post #243:
Each unit here is 3 pieces: 90 degree , adaptor and ball valve:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8133387970/
With bottom plate on:
This is normal mode:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8133356587/
And this would be when I want to flush the sysem :
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8133357897/

Put temporary wood frame here...because from now on if I have to work on bottom compartment, I have to lay this huge beast down and remove bottom plate and work there for tubing:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8332291556/

Probably going to replace the whole thing with 2x4 because I cannot hit the drain ports while making it lie down...otherwise I might damage the AMS420 radiator out port

Went to dissamble the whole thing..first problem..
Right Flow meter hits the Memory chip while removing...so another reason to move it..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8332289508/

Here is a shot of the bulk head with G1/4 male to male adaptor. The right one needs to move the X mark. the left one like 0.5 " back.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8331232597/

*Question* on Monsoon Fittings...Do I need to put that white rubber ring in picture, where the Tygon tubing goes in?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8331232125/

This is the underside of the SLightBox (for new guys reading post...this is a dry run and this is prototype)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8331231631/

I should have cut out the entire MDF where the bulk heads go...The MDF got into the grooves of the Bitspower Bulk head..and has locked it down pretty tight.
Had to put WD40 and use this new tool...grip has to be firm and not loose...if it slips you will probably get the paint on Bitspower out.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8331230813/

After removing you can see the MDF wood dirt...have to dip these bulk head fittings in soap water and wash it out..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8332286624/

Ordered this part from Frozen CPU. To eventually thread the Acrylic, for now Aluminium.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8332298244/

In the mean time I am going to make new holes for the Flow Meter..
This time drill out the entire MDF until aluminium sheet.

And do a second run tomorrow.
Also I am having second thoughts on doing all Fittings between Flow Meter CPU to CPU In. May just go with 2 Monsoon and a 45.
Which means I have to return all the extra parts I ordered..


----------



## Holynacho

Is it an extra o-ring? The only o-ring I know of on the Monsoon fittings goes in the groove in the bottom and I have found putting some tape in the teeth of the pliers helps to avoid scraping paint off painted fasteners


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Holynacho*
> 
> Is it an extra o-ring? The only o-ring I know of on the Monsoon fittings goes in the groove in the bottom and I have found putting some tape in the teeth of the pliers helps to avoid scraping paint off painted fasteners


Thanks the white o-ring (in my case) is extra. The black o-ring on other side is all I need.
The electrical tape in pliers is good...was just too lazy to go back into the house and search.


----------



## Seanimus

Changed jigsaw blade to cut out the MDF more so it doesn't dirty the bulk head:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8334548294/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8334547746/
Black monsoon.
Lost one white...and i need total 18...instead of earlier 16. Have to find it today...otherwise have to order 1 monsoon...shipping will be more than part cost..








http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8333488863/
Used this to cut Tygon tubing..bought it few years back to cut sprinkler tubes under the lawn (did my own route which increased the pressure slightly for the sprinklers):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8334546348/

No good putting flow meter here...will block right pump adaptor Out to Slight In.

For bulk head fittings...why do I need that ring...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8334544332/

Have to straighten out the Tygon tube with hot and cold water...but this side looks straight.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8333485373/

However this side is not...means the hole needs to move..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8333484387/


----------



## dmanstasiu

I like those fittings


----------



## seross69

So nice and i Like the fittings and all you have done. learning so much and getting so many ideas for my build. i have about 1gb of notes and pictures that i have saved from all the builds for referance and when you get as old as me you learn that memory is the thing between your ears you forget with. lol i wish i could see a build log where someone used a pedestal with the STH10 as i plan on getting a pedestal.??????


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> I like those fittings


Monsoon fittings are nice..

Whose bright idea was it do white fittings against a black motherboard or black background....sheesh..its fugly.








http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8334967689/

Changing /painting all fittings in the middle compartment to black (original), copper brown or maroon.
Skipping idea of fittings only between CPU and Flow Meter
Not going straight from Flow Meter to GPU...and reverting back to old way.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8336022156/

This one goes straight into radiator..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8334966451/
Currently needs a spacer (which I used the bottom lock ring for now):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8334965851/

Closeup of CPU section. I may move the right flow meter a bit (away from motherboard). Reason is that under the slightbox..there will be 2 tubes from each radiator, and need them staggered by 0.5 inch, so they can come in straight.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8336019804/


----------



## seross69

I like the white fittings on the black water cooling stuff in the white case. i think it looks good and this is what i plan on doing... but everyone see's it different.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Are those bitspower black compression fittings on the CPU block ?


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I like the white fittings on the black water cooling stuff in the white case. i think it looks good and this is what i plan on doing... but everyone see's it different.


I see it as something to make less conspicious. The left side is kind of OK...because of the background of white wall.
But the motherboard side-- it is hideous.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Are those bitspower black compression fittings on the CPU block ?


Those are black monsoon.
And I misplaced another white monsoon (this time the part that screws on). Sometimes I think there is poltergeist in my house moving my stuff around. Spend 10% of this project time in looking for stuff.


----------



## seross69

After looking at your pictures again i see what you mean about the white on black with black motherboard background. it dose look better black.. see i am learning so much from other peoples mistakes... when you finish if you have a large bunch of assorted parts left over and want to sell as a whole just to get rid of them let me know..


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> After looking at your pictures again i see what you mean about the white on black with black motherboard background. it dose look better black.. see i am learning so much from other peoples mistakes... when you finish if you have a large bunch of assorted parts left over and want to sell as a whole just to get rid of them let me know..


You can get really good color blends going on with some background matching.
Yes I have this big box that stuff is piling up in. Will just sell the whole box at the end of the build.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> You can get really good color blends going on with some background matching.
> Yes I have this big box that stuff is piling up in. Will just sell the whole box at the end of the build.


I'm interested too


----------



## Seanimus

Sure.

Starting the 24 pin mobo cable. This is going to be 42" long. Longest connection i have made and need to make these before I lose all my calluses (lol)..Otherwise its painful for finger tips.
Have to introduce a new color towards the end of this connection. Since SATA needs 4 colors for me to discern the drive connections.
Can anyone guess which color this will be? (other than Nils)..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8335617429/


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Sure.
> Starting the 24 pin mobo cable. This is going to be 42" long. Longest connection i have made and need to make these before I lose all my calluses (lol)..Otherwise its painful for finger tips.
> Have to introduce a new color towards the end of this connection. Since SATA needs 4 colors for me to discern the drive connections.
> Can anyone guess which color this will be? (other than Nils)..
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8335617429/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love the carbon fiber vinyl tape on your 24-pin connectors!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I love the carbon fiber vinyl tape on your 24-pin connectors!


^^ I noticed that too. Very nice touch.


----------



## modnoob

Love it but I think white was a bad idea you need something that stands out I thought of how t would look with red fittings with white tubing it would look great seeing that there is a great contrast but hey that's just me


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Sure.
> Starting the 24 pin mobo cable. This is going to be 42" long. Longest connection i have made and need to make these before I lose all my calluses (lol)..Otherwise its painful for finger tips.
> Have to introduce a new color towards the end of this connection. Since SATA needs 4 colors for me to discern the drive connections.
> Can anyone guess which color this will be? (other than Nils)..
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8335617429/


red.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> red.


No to bright for my taste would be lesser on gradient than Color-x, Copper Brown and transient to Shade-19.
5 done so far...any other guesses..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8337046624/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *modnoob*
> 
> Love it but I think white was a bad idea you need something that stands out I thought of how t would look with red fittings with white tubing it would look great seeing that there is a great contrast but hey that's just me


Good idea..but I was thinking more subtle..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> I love the carbon fiber vinyl tape on your 24-pin connectors!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> ^^ I noticed that too. Very nice touch.


Yeah I 3Med a lot of things few months ago:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8337045286/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8335988667/

Have to host a call, and get up in like 6 hrs..going to call it a night.


----------



## marodox

You should get some Durelene tubing if you want it to be almost crystal clear.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> No to bright for my taste would be lesser on gradient than Color-x, Copper Brown and transient to Shade-19.
> 5 done so far...any other guesses..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8337046624/
> 
> 
> Good idea..but I was thinking more subtle..
> Yeah I 3Med a lot of things few months ago:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8337045286/
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8335988667/
> Have to host a call, and get up in like 6 hrs..going to call it a night.


im def. stealing that idea







but yeah it's a very clever idea


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marodox*
> 
> You should get some Durelene tubing if you want to to be almost crystal clear.


I have the new Primochill Advanced LRT that is clear, and I was amazed at how clear it is. Never used Durelene though

White would be my guess on the sleeving


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> im def. stealing that idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but yeah it's a very clever idea


Go for it...But can you please delete my images in the reply...its right above, and since few of us ganged up on Seros...only fair to ask you as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marodox*
> 
> You should get some Durelene tubing if you want it to be almost crystal clear.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> I have the new Primochill Advanced LRT that is clear, and I was amazed at how clear it is. Never used Durelene though
> White would be my guess on the sleeving


I am going to sleeve the tubes .. had to make me say that huh...before I did that..
White would be a good choice...But I need to layout what the rest looks like to make a good guess.

--

Finished 6 pairs of shade-19, with black wire...Went through almost 50 feet at 42" each.
For remaining 6 pairs..and skipping 2 pairs for "new" color...chose orange for copper brown sleeve and Red for Color-X sleeve
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8340251835/

Someone had asked how I do the shrinkless sleeving..Its same as Lutro0 videos with a minor change which makes it easier for me..
Crimp one side, run sleeve in from uncrimped side...Hold at crimp side and stretch till wire and then cut. Once you release your hold the sleeve will be shorter.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8341311232/

Move the crimped side , sleeve to just above the insulation.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8340250919/
HeatShrink:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8341310466/
It shouldn't charr like this..if you use a new lighter with only the blue flame:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8341310106/
And cut:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8341309790/
Crimp other side..Keep stretching the sleeving till other side is fully stretched out..
Hold with pliers:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8340249609/
Snip it with cutters:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8340249293/
Use Lighter:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8340248917/
And then shrink, burn, and rip it out:

Some shots of finished product, without the "new" sleeve;
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8340247283/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8340246653/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8341305718/

New color among following 6 choices..Only 3 of which are viable..And the one I chose atleast in concept is the least likely one of the 3.

Black
Aquamarine
Vanilla Sand
Orange
Titanium Grey
Grand Bleu


----------



## modnoob

Why not just plain white


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *modnoob*
> 
> Why not just plain white


If I was goign to leave the mobo wall as white...yes White would be one of the options.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Go for it...But can you please delete my images in the reply...its right above, and since few of us ganged up on Seros...only fair to ask you as well.










a mod did it for me, so thanks mod!


----------



## Seanimus

Only black monsoon on motherboard side:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8343474439/

For Pump Side..Swapped the CPU and GPU reservoirs...This is to avoid the cross of incoming tubes (in earlier picture from post #704)
New black monsoon yet to arrive.
90 black bps are sold out..and have only white.
45 black bps are one the way.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8344533300/

25mm extender fits nicely from underneath the slightbox -- from radiator to bulkhead.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8343472829/

Complete middle compartment front view
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8343473611/

*OLD view*:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8336022156/

Side view: Have to make some modifications to have lesser bends outwards.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8343472381/


----------



## Seanimus

Removed 2x90's and 2x45's from pump side and replaced the In's to Reservoir with 2x45's....So more 90's now.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8343901633/


----------



## seross69

So good work. I am so impressed with your attention to detail. i hope when i start my build I can do 1/10 as good as you have done!!


----------



## marodox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Go for it...But can you please delete my images in the reply...its right above, and since few of us ganged up on Seros...only fair to ask you as well.
> I am going to sleeve the tubes .. had to make me say that huh...before I did that..
> White would be a good choice...But I need to layout what the rest looks like to make a good guess.
> --
> Finished 6 pairs of shade-19, with black wire...Went through almost 50 feet at 42" each.
> For remaining 6 pairs..and skipping 2 pairs for "new" color...chose orange for copper brown sleeve and Red for Color-X sleeve
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8340251835/
> Someone had asked how I do the shrinkless sleeving..Its same as Lutro0 videos with a minor change which makes it easier for me..
> Crimp one side, run sleeve in from uncrimped side...Hold at crimp side and stretch till wire and then cut. Once you release your hold the sleeve will be shorter.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8341311232/
> Move the crimped side , sleeve to just above the insulation.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8340250919/
> HeatShrink:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8341310466/
> It shouldn't charr like this..if you use a new lighter with only the blue flame:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8341310106/
> And cut:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8341309790/
> Crimp other side..Keep stretching the sleeving till other side is fully stretched out..
> Hold with pliers:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8340249609/
> Snip it with cutters:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8340249293/
> Use Lighter:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8340248917/
> And then shrink, burn, and rip it out:
> Some shots of finished product, without the "new" sleeve;
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8340247283/
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8340246653/
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8341305718/
> New color among following 6 choices..Only 3 of which are viable..And the one I chose atleast in concept is the least likely one of the 3.
> 
> Black
> Aquamarine
> Vanilla Sand
> Orange
> Titanium Grey
> Grand Bleu


Where did you get those white clamps for the 24 pin? I am trying to tame my pre-sleved 24 pin to look nice.


----------



## Seanimus

All I found was in this order from FrozenCPU... Part # ele-1084 which is wider one than in the picture above...

Order #: 0425690 Order Date: 10-06-12 07:26:00 PM
ele-66 1/4" Orange Heatshrink 2 $1.00 $2.00
*ele-1084 Akust Wire Management - Flat Cable Clamp - 3 Pack (AV01-0065-AKS) 1 $3.99 $3.99*
cpa-299 Lian Li PT-CL01 Cable Management Kit 1 $7.50 $7.50
ele-1076 Akust Wire Management - Wire Mount 7 - 4 Pack (AV01-0049-AKS) 4 $2.99 $11.96
ele-972 18AWG Hook Up UL1007 Approved Wire - White 50 $0.25 $12.50
ele-1122 16AWG Hook Up UL1007 Approved Wire - White 150 $0.25 $37.50
ele-599 FrozenCPU ConnectRight ATX / PCI / EPS Gold-Plated Connector Pins - Female - 4 Pack 10 $0.99 $9.90
ele-611 FrozenCPU ConnectRight DIY SATA EZ Crimp Connector - White - 90° (M-SCA-16F-W) 3 $1.25 $3.75
Cover Style!: End Cap

ele-611 FrozenCPU ConnectRight DIY SATA EZ Crimp Connector - White - 90° (M-SCA-16F-W) 6 $1.25 $7.50
Cover Style!: Pass Thru Cap

ele-363 1/8" Orange Heatshrink 2 $1.00 $2.00
ele-56 1/2" Orange Heatshrink 2 $1.50 $3.00
sat-195 White SATA 3.0 24" Cable w/ Latch - Straight to Straight (SCIII-24-WH) 6 $3.00 $18.00
ele-55 1/2" Red Heatshrink 2 $1.50 $3.00
ele-74 1/8" Red Heatshrink 2 $1.00 $2.00
tiw-20 3/4" Adjustable Cable Clamp (161 0715) 4 $0.50 $2.00
Item Total: $126.60
Shipping: $14.59
Tax: $0.00
Grand Total: $141.19


----------



## Seanimus

For Bitspower Bulkhead. It says
The Bitspower G1/4" Female / Female Pass-Through Fitting allows you to make a port that you can screw G1/4" fittings into anywhere you like. Perfect for cases with large external radiators that need coolant lines to run through the case side panel. You can drill out a hole for the *G3/8"* male fitting to go through and then tighten on the textured nut.

G3/8" has normally like 15mm +/- diameter with largest diameter being like 16.66MM. Which is like 3/4" which is what I used...but had to file it out, to make the Bitspower Bulkhead to go through. For me to screw the Bitspower Bulkhead in nicely into the acrylic, I need to thread it with the right tap.
Anyone know where I can get a G3/8 Tap.


----------



## modnoob

Mic master Mic karr


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks Modnoob +rep.

Do you know if its BSPP or BSPT?
British Standard Thread Pipe Tap 3/8"-19 BSPT, 2-9/16" Overall Length
British Standard Thread Pipe Tap 3/8"-19 BSPP, 2-9/16" Overall Length


----------



## Addiction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks Modnoob +rep.
> Do you know if its BSPP or BSPT?
> British Standard Thread Pipe Tap 3/8"-19 BSPT, 2-9/16" Overall Length
> British Standard Thread Pipe Tap 3/8"-19 BSPP, 2-9/16" Overall Length


You want BSPP, Seanimus. Good luck and have fun.


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks addiction. same rep
It is BSPP..

I believe the FrozenCPU description of using G3/8 cannot be correct...becaust G3/8 Chart says max diameter is 16.662MM
And I had done 3/4", and when checking again 3/4" = 19.05MM, which was small...so that can't be right

the closest thing from McMaster-Carr would 1/2" BSP..wtth a 20.955 max diameter.
However, after looking at the cost for 4 holes that I need to make, so not worth it.

A cheaper option would be to use 13/16" hole saw (which i have to order online only) from amazon.
That would be 20.6375 MM diameter.


----------



## Addiction

I personally wouldn't use a hole saw, but maybe that is just me. Also, here is a post from Martin confirming the water cooling standard for the tap(s): Clicky. The whole thread talks about water cooling tap standards and stuff, check it out if you want to peace of mind. I trust Martin with most everything he says (since he is usually right). Good luck man. Build is looking good! I'm hoping to get my SM8 build plumbed up this weekend so I can test all the fittings/blocks before time to do custom wires and sleeving.


----------



## Seanimus

I just briefly looked at it. But I believe the discussion is around g1/4. Which is not an issue nowadays as frozen cpu sells them.
Will read again tomorrow


----------



## Addiction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> I just briefly looked at it. But I believe the discussion is around g1/4. Which is not an issue nowadays as frozen cpu sells them.
> Will read again tomorrow


Yeah, it is I'm pretty sure, but G3/8" is the second standard for what we do. Hence they have a lot of G3/8" threaded fittings and what not. I'm pretty sure they both follow the same standard tapered layout (BSPP) though. Let me know how it goes though.


----------



## seross69

Seanimus

A even better option if you dont want to thread the holes would be a uni-bit like the below link.. Should be able to get these most anywhere and they have 2 sizes the one i showed you goes to 7/8 hole and then a bigger one that goes to 1 3/8" these are perfect for what you need to do i believe. do a search at home depot for Unibit Step Drill Bit and you will find a lot of them. They make a clean hole and they will enlarge existing holes. they also will not damage things like a hole saw dose. *I HATE HOLE SAWS!!!!!!!!!*

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/klein-tools-unibit-step-drill-bit-14-59014sen.html


----------



## modnoob

Yea hole saws are pretty abrasive but the problem with a step bit is that its not made for acyillic


----------



## Seanimus

I just requeted cancellation for the order from Amazon -Dewalt hole saw.

G1/4 tap is this one...from FrozenCPU which I dont need.

For Bitspower, I can't even confirm if its G1/2 or G3/8. I am thinking G1/2.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8334544332/

Edit:
http://www.discount-tools.com/rfn-122pp.cfm
These are taps available:
1/4-19 (G1/4) 4 .4505 - .4680 RFN-47052 $ 32.49
3/8-19 (G3/8) 4 .5885 - .6060 RFN-47054 $ 43.32
1/2-14 (G1/2) 4 .7355 - .7548 RFN-47056 $ 56.04

If someone can confirm that its G1/2 for Bitspower outer thread...I can take the plunge and get that tap...
But if it is wrong , then it will be an expensive mistake,.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *modnoob*
> 
> Yea hole saws are pretty abrasive but the problem with a step bit is that its not made for acyillic


I agree step bit is not ideal if you are going to thread the hole but they work well in acyillic to make a hole, depending on thickness of the material of course and also can use it on one side then the other so that hole is not too big when using thick material.

I never had much luck using hole saws to make a hole to thread anything. I work in as a Maintenance supervisor on a drilling rig and we do a lot of construction also, Modifying equipment putting in new holes so we can run new cable, pipe or tubing to equipment some of it we thread and some is held in place with a nut. I know we have never been able to get good thread using hole saw. it might be ok if you dont want water or air tight though??

Good luck with this seanimus, if you have a caliber you can measure the fitting and find out what it is or take it to home depot or lowes or a local hardwear store and they should be able to measure it for you to tell you what it is?? This might be your best bet instead of guessing and getting it wrong??

Also BSPP will screw into a BSPT threaded hole. just have to use a gasket or o-ring to get watertight seal. a BSPT will also screw into a BSPP but again you will need gasket or o-ring. the real differance is the BSPT threads are made to seal on themself and the BSPP threads are made to hold it together but to use a o-ring or gasket to seal... hope this helps some???

at work on a drilling rig off indonesia now... so my day is just starting


----------



## modnoob

Oh OK cause all I work on for my cases is 1/2 inch acrylic


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks for sharing thoughts seros and modnoob

Was doing new lightbox..battery on t4i died,...had to use iphone.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8351497833/
This time I remembered to remove the tape before bending...otherwise its a pain to remove in small groove.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8352560012/
14x2 " is the acrylic:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8352562616/

Original slightbox...inserted the acrylic with LED Strip on *3* sides ..haha...back shot with mirror acrylic:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8352565244/

Top shot...transferred hole markings to top acrylic..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8352564940/

Nice, i can see the SMD through 7" of transparent acrylic on the side..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8351502421/

Slightbox all cut out...made a minor mistake on top right..Max Saw went too far on reverse...(yes I went reverse after 4 inches of jigsaw,)
which I will have to fix. Used JigSaw on all 4 sides for like 4 inches, then used Dremel Saw Max went forward, lined it up, and went reverse over the jigsawed part.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8351502107/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8351501683/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8352563612/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8352563272/
Just wanted to show the flow meter would not fit in between radiators..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8352562932/

Received Jeak's RGB Amps for Aquaero 5.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8351499951/


----------



## Seanimus

Someone was asking me why I did not do the whole partition as the SLightbox. Mine is like 22.25" long.
I guess you can go 23" and still have room for future short 5.25 bay.
If you go longer than 23" forget about the short bay in the future.
If you go longer than 24" it will not be possible to remove fan or other 5.25 devices from Front; which are immediately above or below the SLIghtbox.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8353188017/

This is with the door cover .
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8353190395/

When closed, you cannot see the gap from side and little bit to the left. Which is closer to how it will be finally setup in my house.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8353189483/

New black monsoon's arrived.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8354249114/

Black Matte Fusion Krylon for plastics on Tamiya and one flat cable holder:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8354248222/


----------



## goodtobeking

Nice update. Let me know how the Mini tamiya connectors do with the new paint. I have mine installed and working great with all the 12v connections it can which is 4. Would like to paint them matte black like you did if it holds up.

Also whats up with the "Jeak's RGB Amps for Aquaero 5" what are they?? My guess would be so you can run more than 1 amp of LEDS on the RGB header from the aquaero. What are they rated for??


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Nice update. Let me know how the Mini tamiya connectors do with the new paint. I have mine installed and working great with all the 12v connections it can which is 4. Would like to paint them matte black like you did if it holds up.
> Also whats up with the "Jeak's RGB Amps for Aquaero 5" what are they?? My guess would be so you can run more than 1 amp of LEDS on the RGB header from the aquaero. What are they rated for??


Fusion on Tamiya is holding up good..Less than 24 hours and tried one..looks fine.

Got the RGB Amp because Shoggy told me to get that for my rig...as I wanted to have AQ5 control multiple RGB's. Secondly I believe the AMP converts Cathode based to Anode RGB. which means i can probably even connect a RGB Strip (but that would be pushing it.
I don't know what load it can handle...but I believe Jeak said a lot..much more than I can have in my rig...100 per output ..maybe.
10x more than what I would need from a single output and it has 3 outputs.

Bondo the mistake on big slightbox. and cover up corners a bit.

Cut the small slightbox. I did a silly mistake and used rubber mallet while bending and found out the whole thing was like 1/16" to tight. Took a regular homedepot 0.5" channel and hammered it into the grooves of the slightbox...to regain my 1/16". Otherwise another 4 hours worth of work making new 14" slightbox.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8356275482/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8355212861/

No mirror at back on this one.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8355213383/

The 14" Slightbox will in between reservoir and motherboard vertically...and will be away from the Mobo wall, by like 0.5" to give it room for the mobo cable to come through (and sata).
Well atleast that's the plan,.
Since no mirror at the back...the light will also go through the big oval cutout to behind the mobo wall.

Forgot to use the finger and flatten it...its already hard in 5 mins...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8355211497/

Put Aluminium primer on the 22" Slightbox.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8355210921/


----------



## Seanimus

Deleted picture of bondo, accidently...here is a repost.
And sanded down 14" Slightbox:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8356517212/
Not going to apply another layer of bondo on this side..too lazy..for something that will not be seen.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8355454257/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8356516536/
Priming that now..

Was thinking copper brown for 22" horizontal one and maroon for 14" vertical one.


----------



## turbobnl

Hey, wanna say sweet build!







. and a friendly advice, that bondo will crack over time, any vibration or flex will crack it. Have you look into your local welding shop to have them weld up the alumm?


----------



## Ragsters

Great Job!


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> Hey, wanna say sweet build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . and a friendly advice, that bondo will crack over time, any vibration or flex will crack it. Have you look into your local welding shop to have them weld up the alumm?


Thanks. I don't need bondo, or jb weld or welding...The aluminium is not going to move...the whole thing is a single piece. I need like a hammer to move that currently.
The bondo is there only as something that can be sanded and painted over.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Great Job!


Thanks.


----------



## Addiction

Looking real sexy Seanimus!







I really like what you are doing with that light box, should highlight your case nicely.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Addiction*
> 
> Looking real sexy Seanimus!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like what you are doing with that light box, should highlight your case nicely.


Thanks.
Didn't get anything done today..but here are some shots of the paint on the SLightbox frame.
The red doesn't look like its in the picture....white background is messing up the way the camera sees maroon..for that matter even the eyes; unless you focus really on the frame..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8360083818/

Here it is with darker background
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8359019549/

Probably have to redo the paint job again at the end of the build...as it is going to get beat up a lot in the case in the heart of all the tubing/cabling.

If I get time tonight I will play with the AQ5 amp.


----------



## Seanimus

Placed it in case, with acrylic on.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8360155644/

Finally used the built-in flash of the Canon t4i to get the red to come out as it should be in photo...still fooling around with that..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8360155298/


----------



## socketus

The more you finish on this build, the better the pix get ! wish I had bought white


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Placed it in case, with acrylic on.


What is it ?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> What is it ?


The famous sLight no doubt! But with a twist!







Check out the link in my sig.

Looking good seanimus!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Addiction*
> 
> Looking real sexy Seanimus!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Addiction forgot to ask you...since your avatar is female gnome with pink hair..which server you on and characters. I stopped playing wow back in June due to freeze issues on deathwing..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> The more you finish on this build, the better the pix get ! wish I had bought white


Ahh sigh...only the pictures... heh
You can have my middle compartment of white STH10, if you have a black one.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> What is it ?


Its a Slightbox. with Leds on etched transparent acrylic, sandwiched between 2 pieces of acrylic. May replace the front white acrylic on vertical (red bordered slightbox) with black, if I can find a CNC guy locally that will do it cheap...or I will just hold off version 2 of this build.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> The famous sLight no doubt! But with a twist!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out the link in my sig.
> Looking good seanimus!
> Jeffinslaw


Thanks Jeffinslaw...Just want to say that mine is quite different in that it's not home depot and a single piece of metal. And which is much harder to make. The post in Jeffinslaw's signature is probably the way you want to go, if you don't want to bend metal.


----------



## Addiction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Addiction forgot to ask you...since your avatar is female gnome with pink hair..which server you on and characters. I stopped playing wow back in June due to freeze issues on deathwing.


Ahh, another fellow WoW player. I stopped playing until my build gets finished, but I was into the competitive raiding and pvp scene until I stopped for a bit. So, if you start back up and like to have some fun you can find me on Korgath.







I'll PM you my RealID and character details and what not.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Addiction*
> 
> Ahh, another fellow WoW player. I stopped playing until my build gets finished, but I was into the competitive raiding and pvp scene until I stopped for a bit. So, if you start back up and like to have some fun you can find me on Korgath.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll PM you my RealID and character details and what not.


Got your PM. Yeah I am on Uther-Alliance and StormReaver-Horde...well was...

Just few organization shots tonight.
Lost 2 hours looking for AQ LT, and found it in my office upstairs . Apparently took it up there while doing the Google Sketchup. Anyways during the hunt, I did recover one of the White Monsoon Fittings. So now only missing one.
Hooked up the LT and Jeaks' RGB amp to a default EVGA power cable..
Found a broken AQ RGB Illumuniation module to figure out the RGB wires coming out of AQ5.
Jeak's RGB Amp takes 3 pin input only...so have to make a cable from 4 pin to 3 pin and make sure wires correct.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8362779331/

Got NTE 26AWG in the back that I will use. Don't have NTE 26AWG Blue so going to use Black. Whenever power is needed I am going to use Yellow on 26AWG.
New layouts on wall from Martin's AQ layout
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8363845050/

Comparing Cathode based RGB to Anode based you can see the difference.
Anode based RGB have different layouts..which was drawn out for me. The resistors I need to solder respectively, with Red being a different resistor value, as by default Red is the brightest in RGB.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8363844808/
Blue and power in center for cathode based rgb, as in this shot for AQ RGB Illumination module (which is broken):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8362778055/

*I don't have the insulation in the shot above....I need to get that before I proceed with my test.*
Got some new solder tips and pump..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8363844350/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8362777537/

So everything ready..including
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8362778245/

When I get the insulation (heat shrink from local radioshack) tommorrow I will proceed with doing

1 New RGB
Loaded with 4 RGB's
RGB Strip
If above doesn't work, then in series another RGB Amp in shot below
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8363844582/

Here's a closeup of Jeak's RGB Amp...pretty simple design than one could make locally or just pay for it and not bother:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8363843702/


----------



## Addiction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Got your PM. Yeah I am on Uther-Alliance and StormReaver-Horde...well was...


No kidding, I was on Stormreaver (Horde and Alliance) for quite awhile. Actually, I think I still have a toon on Stormreaver still. Small world.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Addiction*
> 
> No kidding, I was on Stormreaver (Horde and Alliance) for quite awhile. Actually, I think I still have a toon on Stormreaver still. Small world.


Never PvPed ...Just in 2012 GM decided to move to StormReaver for guild merge opportunities....plus StormReaver has faster pug groups for raiding content, when schedules in regular hardcore raids don't align. Uther is more west coast, which always killed me in time difference, but on Uther since 2005 (I think).
All /who Sean* names on these 2 servers are mine; atleast when I stopped playing in mid-2012. And they are a few.


----------



## Addiction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Never PvPed ...Just in 2012 GM decided to move to StormReaver for guild merge opportunities....plus StormReaver has faster pug groups for raiding content, when schedules in regular hardcore raids don't align. Uther is more west coast, which always killed me in time difference, but on Uther since 2005 (I think).
> All /who Sean* names on these 2 servers are mine; atleast when I stopped playing in mid-2012. And they are a few.


What guild? I was part of Nebula and one of the guilds that merged to form Accession.


----------



## Seanimus

Going to PM you..


----------



## Seanimus

minor update..
cut
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8367101638/
line up soldered wire...flux on rgb cut end
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8366034535/

Each RGB with resistors:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8366033947/

Both go into thicker wire. Leaving this end bare as it will go into reservoir..and can't sleeve half of it as yet:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8367100394/

RGB end for Amp in that order this is 22AWG:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8367100958/

Sleeved it, no point in not doing it. If it doesn't work, waste of 30 mins.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8367100778/


----------



## Addiction

Nice man! I just had to do the same thing to change the LED color in my EVGA 680 Hydro Copper blocks (from red to green).







Looking good as usual.


----------



## Seanimus

It's alive! Didn't blow up my spare AQ5 LT

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8368085665/

Here's a shot with white under it, to diffuse the red and take a full shot.
I used the 4 pin wire from RGB Illumination module (the broken led one) , sleeved it and put a 3 pin on other end (cut the power close to the 3 pin connector and is hidden inside the sleeve).
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8369151572/

Atleast now I can load up the RGB LED's. I can use Amazon RGB Leds (diffused lens on top) for that. And proceed to do 5.25 Vandal bay over the weekend...I have been wanting to do that for atleast a month now. That should complete the front of the STH10.

But for today, next part of the test which is RGB SMD 5050 strip. I doubt this will work; but might as well continue with the test. If it does work then the vertical SLIghtbox will RGB SMD Strip and not white.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Addiction*
> 
> Nice man! I just had to do the same thing to change the LED color in my EVGA 680 Hydro Copper blocks (from red to green).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking good as usual.


Nice. I checked your thread...You didn't post pictures of that mod?


----------



## Addiction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Nice. I checked your thread...You didn't post pictures of that mod?


Sadly, I did not even think about taking pictures. I was up all night doing GPU and CPU water blocks, and I got sidetracked trying to finish it all before my wife and kid woke up. If and when I take the loop down to add in my pedestal and more rads, I'll take one of them off and do a tutorial/pictures to show everyone. I will probably be redoing one of them anyways. I just have this strong feeling that one of them may fail sooner than later. The second one I got around to doing at 3:30am, so I may or may not have done a bad soldering job.









Good job on getting the LED's up and running though, and always nice to not have it backfire and burn something up.


----------



## Seanimus

Anyone know how to manually change colors of the RGB output on an AQ5?
I know I saved Martin's document with the menu items, somewhere on my computer..have to hunt for it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Addiction*
> 
> Good job on getting the LED's up and running though, and always nice to not have it backfire and burn something up.


Thanks and when one turns the power on and cringes...you have to wait few seconds...when it doesn't backfire its instant relief.


----------



## Addiction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Anyone know how to manually change colors of the RGB output on an AQ5?
> I know I saved Martin's document with the menu items, somewhere on my computer..have to hunt for it
> Thanks and when one turns the power on and cringes...you have to wait few seconds...when it doesn't backfire its instant relief.


I hear that.







As for the RBG colors, try asking cpachris or mandrix. They have messed with the AQ5's for quite some time now, maybe they can lend a hand.


----------



## Seanimus

Will do. Found Martin's AQ5 Review document and its uploaded to google drive here.


----------



## Seanimus

RGB Strip blew out the RGP Output from AQ5..some reverse feedback ..sigh...No more testing with spare AQ5 LT.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8368342043/

I should have tested first with this guy...and see if it worked...If it didn't work and AQ5 RGB output was still alive, I could have done above...Atleast that way I would have known both routes didn't work.
Well maybe next year, if I have a spare AQ5 I will test it. Or if someone else can pick up where I left off..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8363844582/

For few minutes I thought the Jeak RGB Amp blew up as well...luckily it didn't...
And by mashing some buttons on the AQ5 Pro I got a non-red color coming out...so I know RGB is functioning.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8369408044/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8369408246/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8368342505/


----------



## Electrocutor

If you're going to sleeve the tubing like you mentioned earlier, I'd suggest using Norprene. It's pretty much the longest lasting, most durable material for tubing you can get.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> If you're going to sleeve the tubing like you mentioned earlier, I'd suggest using Norprene. It's pretty much the longest lasting, most durable material for tubing you can get.


Welcome back....nice to see you again here...

Is this itNorprene® Tubing, 3/8"ID x 1/2"OD, 50 ft/pack

Edit:
Another place:3/8" ID x 1/2" OD x 1/16" Wall Norprene® Industrial Grade Tubing Tubing


----------



## Electrocutor

Yeah, there are different grades, but obviously you don't need to worry about some stuff like certification for food and what not. FrozenCPU also sells it from Tygon, I went with the 1/2-3/4 (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10484/ex-tub-644/Tygon_A-60-G_Norprene_38_ID_12_OD_-_Industrial_Grade_Thermoplastic_Elastomer_Tubing.html).


----------



## Seanimus

whats the difference between frozencpu one and Norprene® Industrial Grade Tubing Tubing .
Frozencpu is like double the cost...just had to ask


----------



## socketus

I know that FCPU will come up with a higher price - say $5 - on a lot of gear like pumps, rads, what not, than PPCS - but they deliver in 2 days what PPCS does in 4 days.
That is quite a markup .... tho.


----------



## Electrocutor

There isn't as far as I know; I just wanted to show that normal water cooling sites also sell it; I can't remember where I ordered mine, but it was cheaper than FCPU.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's alive! Didn't blow up my spare AQ5 LT
> 
> Here's a shot with white under it, to diffuse the red and take a full shot.
> I used the 4 pin wire from RGB Illumination module (the broken led one) , sleeved it and put a 3 pin on other end (cut the power close to the 3 pin connector and is hidden inside the sleeve).


wait, so you are using RGB leds to show temperature? that is smart! +rep for you sir!


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> There isn't as far as I know; I just wanted to show that normal water cooling sites also sell it; I can't remember where I ordered mine, but it was cheaper than FCPU.


So the Tygon Pasticizer Free version (which is what I have) is not as good as Norprene Version? The version I got is 1.5 times more expensive than the one you are recommending (both prices from FrozenCPU)?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> I know that FCPU will come up with a higher price - say $5 - on a lot of gear like pumps, rads, what not, than PPCS - but they deliver in 2 days what PPCS does in 4 days.
> That is quite a markup .... tho.


yep./

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> wait, so you are using RGB leds to show temperature? that is smart! +rep for you sir!


thanks..that was the original design and still continues to be.. hence all the testing with various configurations...Lot of time, wasted items, and now partially destroyed part..
The design continues


----------



## Electrocutor

Quote:


> So the Tygon Pasticizer Free version (which is what I have) is not as good as Norprene Version?


To be honest, after looking up more info on both I've confused myself. I know Norprene is known for long-life without becoming brittle or developing cracks, but Tygon 2475 seems to be pretty top-class stuff as well. I'll withdraw my statement.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrocutor*
> 
> To be honest, after looking up more info on both I've confused myself. I know Norprene is known for long-life without becoming brittle or developing cracks, but Tygon 2475 seems to be pretty top-class stuff as well. I'll withdraw my statement.


Absolutely no worries. Better to have two people look at what I am putting in there, especially since the time it would take to get sleeving on them is a lot more monies than the product


----------



## alancsalt

I've gone off clear tubing because all brands I've tried cloud up on me after a few months. I tried about three brands including Tygon 3603...all clouded.
Currently using PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing in black and red to (almost) match the ROG colour scheme.


----------



## Aximous

I'm using masterkleer clear tubing, 4 months now and not a single bit of it is clouding.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aximous*
> 
> I'm using masterkleer clear tubing, 4 months now and not a single bit of it is clouding.


Miraculously someone in Australia stocks it. The KoolRoom. I will try to test some on my next loop. Thank you.


----------



## mandrix

I don't run any led's at present from my Aquaero Pro, but there are settings in the Aquasuite software for the led output. There is some way to tie color to temperature I believe. I'm currently running single color led's from a FC8 and don't have any RGB's to test.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> I've gone off clear tubing because all brands I've tried cloud up on me after a few months. I tried about three brands including Tygon 3603...all clouded.
> Currently using PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing in black and red to (almost) match the ROG colour scheme.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aximous*
> 
> I'm using masterkleer clear tubing, 4 months now and not a single bit of it is clouding.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Miraculously someone in Australia stocks it. The KoolRoom. I will try to test some on my next loop. Thank you.


The clouding that comes about in the clear tubes is because of bacteria/algae or just reaction to different parts in the loop along with any biocide?
I was planning on using Distilled Water + Silver Coil + 1-2 drops of Dead Water.

2375 says: "Until now, many applications for clear flexible tubing were limited due to chemical attack from fluid being transported. Tygon 2375 Ultra Chemical Resistant Tubing broadens the range of usability with its expanded chemical resistance. The tubing is virtually unaffecrted by acids, bases, ketones, salts and alcohols."

Alan have you tried 2375 in your test ?
The tube is not clear it comes a bit fuzzy and guessing due to the way it is made.
I am not stuck on clear...just that clear would interfere lesser with color choices of sleeving.
If you get non-clear tubes, how do you know its not clouding up on the inside with deposits? Are you cutting it open after sometime?

[Edit]: Now I am confused...the FCPU link of 2375 is now replaced with 2475 ...So 2375 is old news?? And 2075 is a combination of 2375 and 2475...Sheesh


----------



## Electrocutor

Yeah... like I said I confused myself. They don't make it especially easy to figure out if you're not in the industry. If you had any lab techs that know about this kind of stuff you may be able to get a leg up. The biggest reason I chose Norprene was longevity, low evaporation, and resistance to UV and ozone break-down (though I intend to keep it indoors so not a huge issue). I do know that one of the biggest banes of clear tubing is the UV vs Plasticizer issue: as I understand it, plasticizer allows resistance to UV break-down.

As for the biocide: there's no real reason to use both CuSO4 and silver. The problem with silver is that the water has to be in contact with it, so any dead spots like drain or fill tubes can still grow stuff. I decided to use benzalkonium chloride (Nuke PHN) because I'm not going to add anything else to the water and it also acts as a surfactant in addition to biocide.


----------



## maximus56

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RGB Strip blew out the RGP Output from AQ5..some reverse feedback ..sigh...No more testing with spare AQ5 LT.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8368342043/
> 
> 
> 
> I should have tested first with this guy...and see if it worked...If it didn't work and AQ5 RGB output was still alive, I could have done above...Atleast that way I would have known both routes didn't work.
> Well maybe next year, if I have a spare AQ5 I will test it. Or if someone else can pick up where I left off..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8363844582/
> 
> 
> 
> For few minutes I thought the Jeak RGB Amp blew up as well...luckily it didn't...
> And by mashing some buttons on the AQ5 Pro I got a non-red color coming out...so I know RGB is functioning.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8369408044/
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8369408246/
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8368342505/


Since Aqua Computer is *too incompetent* to provide appropriate documentation or a comprehensive User Manual for its customers in North America (not sure what they do for other regions in terms of documentation), they should just pay Seanimus to write one! He has certainly gone through enough pain with their products, and so have I. The only difference is that Seanimus has been generous enough to share the details of aqua computer installation hassles, in detail, for the benefit for us all. Shoggy does a decent job of stroking the Users, and providing ad hoc support, but that is no substitute for a comprehensive user manual. The product might be good, provided one get through all the hassles of a very steep learning curve which, again, is largely due to the lack of good documentation. However, the user friendliness ranks at the very bottom, at least from my experience.
Seanimus, thanks for educating us, albeit at your expense, unfortunately. Hopefully, someone from aqua computer is taking note of your log, and will use this to improve the documentation, going forward.
Great Build by the way; I did have you figured for a perfectionist!!!


----------



## socketus

There's a guy - InitialDriveGTR - who has done the temp loading led thing with his Aquaero unit, in his Arctic Rain build log - here's the most of the text and pix and a vid showing the results

http://www.overclock.net/t/1281076/sponsored-arctic-rain/390#post_18636898

@ Seanimus448 - I've posted your log on InitialDriveGTR's log, along with a note about your attempt to set up a temp load RGB set thru your Aquaero.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> The clouding that comes about in the clear tubes is because of bacteria/algae or just reaction to different parts in the loop along with any biocide?
> I was planning on using Distilled Water + Silver Coil + 1-2 drops of Dead Water.
> 
> 2375 says: "Until now, many applications for clear flexible tubing were limited due to chemical attack from fluid being transported. Tygon 2375 Ultra Chemical Resistant Tubing broadens the range of usability with its expanded chemical resistance. The tubing is virtually unaffecrted by acids, bases, ketones, salts and alcohols."
> 
> Alan have you tried 2375 in your test ?
> The tube is not clear it comes a bit fuzzy and guessing due to the way it is made.
> I am not stuck on clear...just that clear would interfere lesser with color choices of sleeving.
> If you get non-clear tubes, how do you know its not clouding up on the inside with deposits? Are you cutting it open after sometime?
> 
> [Edit]: Now I am confused...the FCPU link of 2375 is now replaced with 2475 ...So 2375 is old news?? And 2075 is a combination of 2375 and 2475...Sheesh


When I said clouded, the Tygon went yellow, while the others filmed. i assume UV versus plasticizer issues there. Had to clean blocks. That was with Kill-coil. Currently using "Liquid Utopia" biocide. I have not tried Tygon other than 3603. The vendor no longer stocks Tygon. In Australia only two or three places stock a serious range of watercooling gear. My experience is limited by comparison.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I don't run any led's at present from my Aquaero Pro, but there are settings in the Aquasuite software for the led output. There is some way to tie color to temperature I believe. I'm currently running single color led's from a FC8 and don't have any RGB's to test.


Thanks, I found out the place. Each data source can be tied to a color....So when I get water temperature through any one of the devices coming into AQ5 , I will connect them to colors.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maximus56*
> 
> Since Aqua Computer is *too incompetent* to provide appropriate documentation or a comprehensive User Manual for its customers in North America (not sure what they do for other regions in terms of documentation), they should just pay Seanimus to write one! He has certainly gone through enough pain with their products, and so have I. The only difference is that Seanimus has been generous enough to share the details of aqua computer installation hassles, in detail, for the benefit for us all. Shoggy does a decent job of stroking the Users, and providing ad hoc support, but that is no substitute for a comprehensive user manual. The product might be good, provided one get through all the hassles of a very steep learning curve which, again, is largely due to the lack of good documentation. However, the user friendliness ranks at the very bottom, at least from my experience.
> Seanimus, thanks for educating us, albeit at your expense, unfortunately. Hopefully, someone from aqua computer is taking note of your log, and will use this to improve the documentation, going forward.
> Great Build by the way; I did have you figured for a perfectionist!!!


Thanks. I am always late on my powerpoints at work, as it has to be perfect.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> There's a guy - InitialDriveGTR - who has done the temp loading led thing with his Aquaero unit, in his Arctic Rain build log - here's the most of the text and pix and a vid showing the results
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1281076/sponsored-arctic-rain/390#post_18636898
> @ Seanimus448 - I've posted your log on InitialDriveGTR's log, along with a note about your attempt to set up a temp load RGB set thru your Aquaero.


There's time,...no hurry and thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> When I said clouded, the Tygon went yellow, while the others filmed. i assume UV versus plasticizer issues there. Had to clean blocks. That was with Kill-coil. Currently using "Liquid Utopia" biocide. I have not tried Tygon other than 3603. The vendor no longer stocks Tygon. In Australia only two or three places stock a serious range of watercooling gear. My experience is limited by comparison.


I will post pictures a week after I have it running, to see how it goes and will hold off on sleeving it until a week has passed by.

So since its the weekend...decided to find out a little more on which tap size is needed ...Paid a visit to Harbor Freight hardware store...(actually there are 2 in my area ..within 10 miles..)
Metric Tap Set $85 for the whole set..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8374147127/

all the way to M24 with two sizes for each for thread height.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8375220970/

Drill 8 pieces with smallest being 5/8..for like $29. and digital ruler us/metric.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8374146559/

Also got this cheap drill press. And this frigging thing just didn't want to work right...the spindle kept falling off ..you get what you pay for $70. But it did take 1/2" drill bits.
Now for a third time I have to go to Sears (those guys are going to hate me) and get another big ass one if I want to continue on this route...I think I am just going to find a metal shop and use theirs.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8374146275/

So used a 3/4" hole saw and *M20x1.5 tap*. It worked!!. So that is the tap and drill to use is 3/4" for Bitspower Bulkhead/Fill port fitting...Finally.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8375220162/

_*Now I can return the everything I got today and start to order Amazon parts.*_

The vandal switch...is weird to find right tap. A 3/4" hole, the thing will just fall through. So its small than that.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8375219128/

Thats a shot of the chart in the tap set..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8375219394/

Thinking it may not be metric. and probably US standard. Now I have to figure that out.. never ending


----------



## dmanstasiu

How much did you pay for the M20x1.5 tap ? I'm looking to install a fill-port and I'm checking out all the options atm


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> How much did you pay for the M20x1.5 tap ? I'm looking to install a fill-port and I'm checking out all the options atm


The price is right above the picture of the tap set.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> The price is right above the picture of the tap set.


That's what I thought ...


----------



## maximus56

I had the same issue with my CM drill press. Not sure if you have already tried this, but I placed a block of wood under the chuck, and whacked it with a mallet to push the chuck into the spindle. This did the trick for me.


----------



## Seanimus

I hit that so many times..it just wouldn't hold once the stress of aluminium meeting with wood...would just fall off..
I can try again..because the price is such a bargain.


----------



## maximus56

Another trick that seems to work is to put the arbor in, as you would normally, and then bring it down to the drill press table with the handle (may have to bring the the table up a bit, if necessary) . Make sure that the drill press table is at an angle so that you are not bringing the arbor/chuck down through the hole. Give it a good press against the drill press table using the handle, and it should now seat well. Re-adjust and tighten the table at the height that you prefer, in its usual position (not at an angle). Just make sure that the chuck's jaws are in when you are pressing chuck against the drill press table.
I agree with you that it is a great price, and the drill press is more than adequate for computer modding and other light use. Hope it works out for you!


----------



## george_orm

Insane amount of work in this build. Absolutely epic, look forward to seeing final product


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maximus56*
> 
> Another trick that seems to work is to put the arbor in, as you would normally, and then bring it down to the drill press table with the handle (may have to bring the the table up a bit, if necessary) . Make sure that the drill press table is at an angle so that you are not bringing the arbor/chuck down through the hole. Give it a good press against the drill press table using the handle, and it should now seat well. Re-adjust and tighten the table at the height that you prefer, in its usual position (not at an angle). Just make sure that the chuck's jaws are in when you are pressing chuck against the drill press table.
> I agree with you that it is a great price, and the drill press is more than adequate for computer modding and other light use. Hope it works out for you!


That is seriously one piece of crap. Spent afternoon returning it and getting a Skill from Lowes.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8377368319/

Best hole saw cut I have ever done...went through so easily, didn't shake and cleanest cut I ever did with a hole saw:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8378442210/

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm*
> 
> Insane amount of work in this build. Absolutely epic, look forward to seeing final product


Thanks...Now to next part which is making a hole in the lightbox and tapping that.


----------



## maximus56

The CM that I picked up was a 12 speed, instead of the 5 speed (I think,the one you just returned), and it seems to be plenty good for light duty work and other occasional use. There are plenty of other great drill presses that are more expensive than the CMs or Skills, but unless you are a contractor or a serious DIY type, no need. At the end of the end, it boils down what you feel comfortable with, especially taking into account the safety considerations. Glad to see that you are comfortable with the Skill.
All the best with your build


----------



## Seanimus

Yes definitely , it is not as good as the CM 12 speed.


----------



## Seanimus

All holes marked. The one that has to dead on..not even off by 0.5 mm is the one where the pen....Because the fitting will straight to radiator. Less than 10% chance of getting that right..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8378960468/

First one..gave it time to cool down..and clean..after going through a bit..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8377884313/

Very clean no melting:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8377884025/

Tap
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8377883387/

made sure it went through:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8377883171/

Little mdf and fits nicely ..no need for a visegrip:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8377882815/

Went fast on the next one...and there was melting..which made everything take another 30 mins extra...as I had to tap multiple times.

Have to clean this hole saw everytime, which takes another 30 mins to get cutout pieces (3 of them for 3 acrylics) out..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8378957974/

And I spoke too soon on G.Skill....some aluminium flew into the groove with vertical ladder like thing in picture below...now I can't move the table up without dismantling.
The worm slipped now and does not move it up and down anymore....
The Craftsman Drill press was much better in all these moving parts.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8377882229/


----------



## Seanimus

My Dewalt Hole Saws..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8379740544/

Have to clean with each acrylic :
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8379740058/

And then remove the cut out piece and then continue. Good thing is that the Dewalt doesn't lock up so its easy to remove. Going to order a 3/4" as well and not use the Milwaukee going forward:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8378661929/

Only the first tap went nice. That Harbor Freight stuff isn't good. $89 for a full set...when online a single tap is like $40 and handle another $40.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8378635745/

You can see the holes through on the side. Ofcourse light will not go through that...Thats why its a 3 sided Slightbox.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8379713364/

And I have to repolish...This is a lot of work:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8378635319/


----------



## DarkDeLaurel

Great work Seanimus, its taken me the better part of a day to read all 81 pages but well worth it. Since you are using the AQ5 it has given me a better idea of what I am going to need for my build for it. Also the links for pins, tools, etc are great! A few things since it seems you are having a hard time finding tools, etc. Do you happen to have an Acklands-Grainger (http://www.acklandsgrainger.com) near by (sorry cant remember where you live to look myself). Other than that I cant wait to see the final build!

Dark


----------



## mandrix

Wow, you have your bad luck with tools, eh? I have that same little Skill press and I've drilled a lot of acrylic, including using hole saws. I have an air blower at hand I use to clean off the work area between drilling and no problems.
For the acrylic drilling I have the belt speed adjustment set on the bottom. High speed with inferior cutting edge (hole saws) = melted acrylic. You should punch the scrap out the hole saw after each cut. Usually just tapping it causes it to fall out for me.

Don't remember if you have a table saw or not, but for cutting acrylic on the table saw I found a cheap 7 1/4" blade at Lowes that does a great job without chipping the edge.I also found a 10 1/2" blade that does almost as good a cut, both are for 5/8" arbors though.
Let me know if you need the Lowe's number of the blade.


----------



## TPE-331

I love working with the Dewalt hole saws as well, I just bought this set http://www.dewalt.com/tools/drilling-accessories-bi-metal-hole-saws-hole-saw-sets-d180005.aspx not too long ago. This is going to be one of the best STH10 builds I have ever seen, keep up the great work Seanimus.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkDeLaurel*
> 
> Do you happen to have an Acklands-Grainger (http://www.acklandsgrainger.com) near by. Other than that I cant wait to see the final build!
> Dark


Will check ...did not have a chance at work today (long day) and thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> For the acrylic drilling I have the belt speed adjustment set on the bottom. High speed with inferior cutting edge (hole saws) = melted acrylic.


Must remember that and thanks for that tip.

Mini-Tamiya for LED light. Was like first to find it in OCN and last to place it in build .. lol.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8381790831/

Exactly how i enviosioned the effect of polished cut outs for cabling.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8382873958/

All threaded.
This is the other effect that I was longing for...the light on the wall...was trying that with my first cut of CCFL acrylic 4 months back.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8382874274/

Have to finish placing all the connectors ...And put black Monsoon on near reservoirs and take another shot.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

You are welcome for recommending you the sLight









Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

Here's a lousy shot of the whole view...the light from Slightbox is throwing off all the pictures...It looks much better than the pictures..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8383012410/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8383012208/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8381929993/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8383011716/

White fittings "purged" for anything with black background:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8381929575/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8383011416/

Top View:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8383011246/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> You are welcome for recommending you the sLight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Thanks for recommendation...but you have to admit the thick aluminium frame bending and making the whole piece out of one piece is soo much better. Those U channels with JBWeld, would not withstood the beating I am going to give this SLigthbox with threaded connectors..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> I love working with the Dewalt hole saws as well, I just bought this set http://www.dewalt.com/tools/drilling-accessories-bi-metal-hole-saws-hole-saw-sets-d180005.aspx not too long ago. This is going to be one of the best STH10 builds I have ever seen, keep up the great work Seanimus.


Getting more dewalt hole saws...


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks for recommendation...but you have to admit the thick aluminium frame bending and making the whole piece out of one piece is soo much better. Those U channels with JBWeld, would not withstood the beating I am going to give this SLigthbox with threaded connectors..


Very true... I really do like the frame you made!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

The vertical Slightbox will balance the light partially, since the STH10 case is huge. That will be 2 weeks from now I think...Have to do dismantle the whole mobo wall for that to put holes and paint the mobo wall - black....
I don't know what is next ...will figure that out tomorrow...probably the 5.25 vandal bay (custom made) or more cabling/sleeving.


----------



## Avonosac

Yet more ideas for me to add to my Blastoise build. I can't wait to finish rendering this in sketchup, between you and she loved e, I have this awesome SFF scratch box I am dreaming up. Your build process has given me plenty of ideas for my machine.

Thanks again man!


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Yet more ideas for me to add to my Blastoise build. I can't wait to finish rendering this in sketchup, between you and she loved e, I have this awesome SFF scratch box I am dreaming up. Your build process has given me plenty of ideas for my machine.
> Thanks again man!


You are welcome!

Well to next part...just finished "real" work and will start with motherboard cable with that "new color" and sata cables to see how all that fits tonight. Only have like 2 hours left before I have to call it a night.


----------



## Seanimus

"New Color" vanilla sand
All pictures are macro shots;
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8385942352/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8384858881/
Any imperfections are magnified a hundred fold:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8384858097/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8384857853/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8384857615/
Thinking last option or maybe one with vanilla sand and white for mobo cable.

I could have taken all shots in lesser lighting; but that would defeat the purpose of full disclosure. Definetely not the way it would appear in the case..but if one can see it within the context of surrounding then yeah..please chime in with which option.


----------



## Avonosac

I like the first or the last.

It just looks strange trying to throw the stark contrast of the super white, in the middle of all of those bundles. That being said you might have some combination in your head we have not seen, which would make the white stand out.

I'm just getting these vague hints that you really want to use white in theory, but like the monsoons its sticking out too much in practice.


----------



## Electrocutor

It's hard to tell like that: you ought to take pictures with it up against the motherboard and where it will actually be at within the case.


----------



## cpachris

5 is a lot of colors. Looks pretty busy.

If you like all 5 colors, perhaps you could use different combinations on different cords? And not all 5 on the same one?


----------



## Seanimus

Sick as a dog...don't know when I will get back to build...But going with last option...It will look different zoomed out with motherboard etc as background...


----------



## Seanimus

Still down with this new strain of flu. Hits like a ton of bricks.
Only update is that Shoggy/AQ are looking for used AQ-LT in their shop to ship over; so I can continue with RGB LED Strip testing.


----------



## alancsalt

Plenty of hot lemon drinks and look after yourself. Hope you shake it soon.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Plenty of hot lemon drinks and look after yourself. Hope you shake it soon.


Hot water + lemon + ginger + Honey


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Hot water + lemon + ginger + Honey


Shake it soon man, we're all dying for more results!

Awesome that shoggy/AQ are sending you over another one to keep going with.


----------



## SverreMunthe

Very interesting thread, going to bookmark it for my rebuild later this year. Screwed up big time with my first build, doing it extremely complcated. Almost finished redooing it now, but man did that cost me money. One Rampage IV Extreme destroyed and two POV TFG GTX 590's as well. Bought a Danger Den Double Wide all acrylic cabinet that had a lot of faults, so that looks like ****, buying Mountain Mod CYO Crystal Ship for next build. And not the neccessary tools, for soldering especialy, since my hands shake a lot. Anyway, I got the parts and I got a lot of experience in building water cooling now. You can see the rebuild in a tread I started earlier.

Anyway, get well soon and looking forward to see you finish the build.


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks for the wishes. Got well few days back, but was drowning in the back log of work. Still that lingering cough.

Mobo cable coming out of psu:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8406460803/

At the back:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8406460611/

Front:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8407553222/

Sata...have to fix that small bleed of sleeve:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8406460313/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8406459971/

Cables will be hardly seen with vertical SLightbox:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8406459759/


----------



## socketus

WoW ! that's really really looking GOOD ! esp dem cables, good to hear your back in the land of the living .... cough ... cough


----------



## PepeLapiu

Seanimus,
I cant read your parts list on first post all the way to the right side.
How many of those 420 rads are you putting in?


----------



## Skips

Mother of God...


----------



## SverreMunthe

Found this today. Ordered some for testing on some of my old fittings, to see how it works.

http://www.molotow.com/fileadmin/user_upload/PDF/colorchart_a4_e.pdf


----------



## seross69

Glad to hear you are feeling better and I know what you mean about a back log of work. I got my self some good news yesterday and I will be getting my bonus in 2 to 3 weeks from work so excited to know i will be able to start my build soon..... You are doing amazing work just hope i can do half as good. considering I have been planning drawing reading and following build logs I hope i have learned enought to do a good job...


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks. 2 Rads. Molotw..not for metal--will it hold on fittings..? let me know when you try it out.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8410704714/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8409608833/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8409608663/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8410704224/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8409608347/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8409607999/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8410703634/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8410703452/


----------



## Jeffinslaw

It's coming along nicely!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Avonosac

It is such a shame for this hardware to be sitting around doing so little, and looking so good. On the plus side, it looks as if you are nearing the end of the build, maybe sometime soon we will be able to see some final fired up pictures!


----------



## zaforh

subbed!!! make an overview video


----------



## cpachris

Diggin' the white sata connectors. And beautiful pictures!


----------



## trust-no-1

Damn, Just read 84 pages. This is epicly awesome.

About 60 pages late, but heres my experience with bitspower....

Cant wait to see some more.


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks.
Got this device from NZXT that someone suggested:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8415005973/
Horrible construction...so long for no reason:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8415005711/
Have to cut it to make 1/2 bay:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8416101356/
To get these effects which fade slowly in and out to like a hundreds of colors:
The Most Important Test was that it works with Anode based RGB strip lighting:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8416102110/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8416101996/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8416102318/
You don't want to use the original RGB strip from NZXT as the LEDS are so so far apart.


----------



## Bart

Nice!!!! Glad you're feeling better and back at it!


----------



## Seanimus

Took it apart:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8416460807/
Will paint the grill white (left most), cover I don't know--may be 2 colors (middle) and right tray have to cut the whole thing in half:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8416460527/
Looks only 12V line is used. Thank God...thats all I had there in between 2 AQ5's anyways...and the thing uses a sata connector...may have to splice the wires coming out and do a different connector.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8416460199/


----------



## barkinos98

im highly interested in the mod for the Hue, seems like an excellent idea! lol


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Nice!!!! Glad you're feeling better and back at it!


Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> im highly interested in the mod for the Hue, seems like an excellent idea! lol


I am not going to use the Hue or the manual mode...just leave it changing colors with fading delays.
I have some ideas where to use this...but is going to require a lot of work. first idea would be to cut the top cover of the STH10 , layer in Transparent acrylic like the door, and etch that with few lines and wordings. No one that I know of has done this kind of light etching on large piece of acrylic so I dont know if the effects will be, as I picture it, in my mind. Everyone just copies the Murderbox egg crate etching- so this will be fun to see how the light refracts on lesser number of straight and curved lines.


----------



## Seanimus

My 4th attempt at painting this ...The white frame was horrible...don't have krylon fusion for plastics- white color and regular white just wasn't working out right. Just going to paint the frame matte black for now till i get white fusion.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8421524354/

Got myself a table saw:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8421523560/
Its big..with 24.5" rip fence
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8421522424/
Now I am stuck...this circular blade for plastics 180 teeth ...the teeth are reversed (i.e. upward motion)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8420426705/
The writing on the blade is on the outside...sheesh...
Edit: Guess its wrong way..hah


----------



## socketus

If the rotation is forward - the direction that the teeth and arrow on blade are pointing in the picture, then its correctly installed.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> If the rotation is forward - the direction that the teeth and arrow on blade are pointing in the picture, then its correctly installed.


thanks for quick resonse. should have specified which side is front....the front is left in picture above...it was wrong.
flipped it around..and placed the plate (red) also (which i forgot earlier)

it cuts through like butter:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8420634267/


----------



## socketus

Thank god for that ! good job, you certainly have gone the Tool Man approach, never seen a guy buy so many tools !! coolio


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Thank god for that ! good job, you certainly have gone the Tool Man approach, never seen a guy buy so many tools !! coolio


Heh

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8422210630/
And i scratched it with exacto knife when taking masking tape out...not redoing it..and put a coat of gloss on it:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8422210362/
Half size, and smooth straight cut:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8422209802/

Never seen a 4 pin connector (right most) like this before...goes from sata to this connector to nzxt.
Same with 2nd from left..smaller in size 4 pin rgb connector going to nzxt.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8421114481/


----------



## Seanimus

Going to get a triple short 5.25 bay mount from CaseLabs. Not yet available, but was promised sometime soon. Would make loading 2 AQ5's and the NZXT unit easier.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8422719522/

The red color on NZXT is off...Burgundy from different maker ...should have tested that first. O'well.. you can't tell in pictures but real life yeah..

And sigh the NZXT needs the 5.5 V as well...since I already cut the cable I am not going to use the Sata connector and use regular 4 pin fan connector. Sata male is wider than 4pin Molex...and the 4 pin molex pins would be overkill for such thin wires..

Mode on NZXT is non-functioning when only 12 V is connected. I guess it works same as AQ5...board needs 5.5V.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8421624865/


----------



## Seanimus

Have to use these cable management clips 20x4 and 10x3
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8421874083/
Cut the sata from NZXT to 4 pin fan connector:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8421873887/
Soldered other end of 4pin male connector back to nzxt sata connector...just to make sure all connections are correct:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8421873593/
And mode function on nzxt is working again
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8421872707/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8421872881/


----------



## DarkDeLaurel

Looking good, man I thought I buy a lot of tools lol.


----------



## Seanimus

Without a CNC Machine, it will never be complete....


----------



## seross69

When you figure out how to talk the wife into a CNC Machine let me know . I had to rent a storage building with power so that i could start on mine my wife said she did not want pieces all over the house.. but at least i will have room for some basic tools.....


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Without a CNC Machine, it will never be complete....


Funny you say that, I've been looking for ways to get access to my old HS's CNC machine. I used to do so much work on it, I could cut out my own parts for pennies on the dollar of what a shop would charge.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> When you figure out how to talk the wife into a CNC Machine let me know . I had to rent a storage building with power so that i could start on mine my wife said she did not want pieces all over the house.. but at least i will have room for some basic tools.....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Funny you say that, I've been looking for ways to get access to my old HS's CNC machine. I used to do so much work on it, I could cut out my own parts for pennies on the dollar of what a shop would charge.


Wife will never allow that..I have to get a whole extension to the house or remove the billiards table in the basement to do that. And that would look really odd next to basement bar and kitchen.
Yes there is a full electric kitchen in the basement and a maids bedroom. Why I bought such a big house is beyond me. Went crazy in 2007.

Anyways back to build...Some work done.
Realized i dont need extension cable for USB 3.0 to 3.5 bay device. and I cannot connect both Power & reset switch to a single 10 pin connector. Good thing i checked before doing anything as they go through STH10 through different holes.
This is how the front would look. Minus bottom solid single bay in bottom side, I will change that in the future with vandal switch bay to power down white light inside the center compartment in 2 places.
Between the AQ5 is the NZXT ; which is not mounted ...Waiting for triple short bay mount from Jim @ caselabs. Weeeee...its free since I came up with idea.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8429065870/

This part is getting uglier. New center compartment coming from Jim @ caselabs. And I will put a big sheet of red and brown acrylic to cover all these cables with 10mm spacing for wires behind.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8429065632/

I really don't know what to do with this USB 3.0 cable; it's ugly.
The power/reset/hdd leds are all sleeved now and they go in straight into motherboard. together as one piece. You cannot see it, but the ends are taped (transparent).
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8427972931/

Hmm this acyrlic piece that I have left is not that wide. for window on top:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8427972713/

The length is fine however. Thinking if I should buy new one from Evonik. If I do that I will replace front door acrylic from CaseLabs also with Evonik..Very expensive acrylic but it is great for etching and lighting with RGB.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8429064978/


----------



## Seanimus

Transparent acrylic is out of stock of 0.25"
ACRYLITE® GP (cell cast), sheet, Colorless 0F00 GT
Bah have to wait now..Guess I could still cut the top out over the weekend and wait for the acrylic to be available.


----------



## Seanimus

Started cutting up the NZXT USB cable and sleeving them. Since its already shielded; and distance is lesser; dropped the idea for fully custom cable.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8440051792/

Found some of them actually have the shield going to the last black wire..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8440051476/

Put aluminium foil tape on that:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8438963877/

And then some brown tape over that. finished it up. Missed some shots of the Maroon wire but same thing...And will post the shot in the case later on.

Changed gears to do some work in the garage:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8440050922/

Cut 5.25 single bay with Transparent and White acrylic in one shot with table saw.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8438963273/

Nice smooth cut:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8440050306/

Did some 5 mm holes for led and shouldn't have done that one in the shot on bottom left...for Round M3 8MM spacer. because aluminium layer is not yet on.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8440050086/

Cut some brown and maroon acrylic, before I change blade to metal:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8440049788/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8438962169/

Cut some metal and taped it with acrylic pieces:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8440049244/

Missed taking shots...was cold in garage---heater there was only doing so much.
But same deal...more 5mm...and M3 holes..and tapping M3 on aluminium. 2 - 3/4" holes for Vandal switch:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8440048830/

Not fully done but here's a shot:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8440048602/

Those are the spacers...and screws on right are from Shoggy to match the AQ5 bolts.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8440048380/


----------



## Seanimus

Since its the 2x 3/4" holes are not horizontally lined up ...off by like 1/8th. Goign to offset them with a hole cutouts to the side for RGB light to come through. Google sketchup I had planned on a 3/4" hole for the light...but now just going to do smaller holes of different sizes to kind of balance out the mistake in the middle.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8441671417/

RGB Led on right would be in refrence to the AQ5 above it...which ever side has the extra hole- it would point to the RGB from that AQ5. This bay is going in between the 2 AQ5's.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8441670841/

Polished this night....hehe did a good job with some scotch going.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8441670347/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8442760332/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8441669641/
Assembled. Still have a make a bracket tonight...not much time with superbowl soon:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8441669227/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8442759152/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8441668435/
RGB doesn't fit in nicely have to expand the two holes on the acrylic.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8442757846/

Here's a shot of the sleeved USB Cables from from Flow Meter. Was really excited about the look 2 days ago. Today not that excited. Bah...can't keep changing things- will never finish.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8442757400/


----------



## alancsalt

Looking good Seanimus.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Looking good Seanimus.


Hey Alan..and thanks.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8443879192/
Macro shots:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8443878692/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8442787547/
Normal with white background:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8442786927/
With black background..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8443878160/

Cutting steel with dremel max saw...starts burning the plastic cover and the masking tape..hehe:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8442788039/

Thats the unfinished bracket. Second piece still remaining, another days worth of work and i should be done with this new custom made 5.25 Dual Vandal Bay/RGB device.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8443877754/


----------



## goodtobeking

Looking good. So is the whole panel going to light up with the RGB from the Aquaero??


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Looking good. So is the whole panel going to light up with the RGB from the Aquaero??


The whole bay should light up in theory....I haven't tested it as yet. What would be nice to see, is when both RGB's have different colors and the effects it will create.
RGB right (looking from front) will represent top AQ5 (since its shaded maroon and has the extra hole pointing upwards), and will represent the CPU Loop.
RGB left will represent AQ5 below it (shaded brown and extra hole down), and will represent the GPU Loop.

Both RGB will be connected through the RGB Amp to the respective AQ5 and will be set on Water temperature. So I could have different lights going on...nothing dramatically changing .. as it would need to get warm.


----------



## dmanstasiu

nicely done!


----------



## cpachris

Really looking forward to seeing the vandal bay lit up. Excellent idea, and excellent execution. This build is so clean so far.


----------



## Bart

Skills: this man has them!! Nice updates!


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> nicely done!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Really looking forward to seeing the vandal bay lit up. Excellent idea, and excellent execution. This build is so clean so far.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Skills: this man has them!! Nice updates!


Thanks guys.

Came home from work and slept till like 7:30...didn't have time to get that thing that goes on Drill Press to clamp down pieces..so built myself one with table saw.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8447119876/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8447119614/
The length was all wrong...fixed it below...was off by 2mm....still have to adjust a tiny bit by making inside bracket hole larger from one side...just like 0.2mm... Small adjustments there are huge differences on top.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8446032123/
Perfect 90
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8446031863/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8447118884/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8447118646/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8447118474/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8446031045/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8446030887/
And I forgot to make the RGB led hole larger....
Too cold to go back out in the garage..Should take like 5 mins tomorrow.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8446030707/

There is some room to squeeze another piece of acrylic...if others want to go 3 piece..but I am good with this.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8446030553/

So its 52mm from front etc etc..per this google sketchup that i did on November 29th..which I am executing now in February...sheesh ..time flies:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8446065659/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8446030367/


----------



## freitz

I am completely jealous of your modding ability. I can't wait until this has done been following since day 1.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I am completely jealous of your modding ability. I can't wait until this has done been following since day 1.


Thanks.

What are these called. Rivet Nut ?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8449674474/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8449674758/

Back view of lit up custom dual vandal bay with ..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8449675296/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8449675962/

Just pushing buttons to get different RGB outs from respective AQ5:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8449675616/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8449675962/

Isn't that a beautiful thing...I am drooling now..the very first time on my own creation..


----------



## radish

awesome build. and lots of custom work. however if i was to comment on anything it would be the choice of color... dont dig it. everything else is stellar.


----------



## Seanimus

Hah...looking at those pictures again...I could just cut the Vandal 3/4" cut outs as 1" on the aluminium piece...and then have the Vandal's go in..resting on acrylic. That way there will be a separate ring of light outside the vandal...


----------



## Seanimus

Some freebies from CaseLabs..
First ever triple bay short mount:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8457583658/
Mounts for Acrylic window on CaseLabs top cover:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8456483581/
New Motherboard wall..to cutup wisely this time..







:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8456483737/

Thought Jeak RGB Amp blew up my AQ5 ...but it was just the cable going to amp. What a scare:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8457583202/


----------



## cpachris

the triple bay mount is a great idea. i have three singles right in a row...might have to get a triple.

window for top cover?.....intrigued. pictures please.

i tread this next topic delicately....gently....trying not to offend anyone. but the entire OCN community is waiting for more forest girl pics.


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



[quote name="cpachris" url="/t/1295989/build-log-caselabs-sth10-aquacomputer-evga-seanimus448/860#post_19248868"

i tread this next topic delicately....gently....trying not to offend anyone. but the entire OCN community is waiting for more forest girl pics.















[/quote]



Lol.

Looking good Seanimus. I also have three bays in a row looks like something I should be able to add to my cart soon.


----------



## Seanimus

Window Top Cover:
Used the PEM..first time; used black nut (few pictures below) to pull it in and lock it in place. don't know why I put masking tape on; realized later on that I have to paint or powder coat it; after I put the PEM.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8460066184/
****
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8458963345/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8458963105/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8460065442/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8460064976/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8458962137/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8458961963/


----------



## Seanimus

STH10 Top cover cutout for window & stripping:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8460626344/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8460626072/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8459524197/
Got the insides as well...takes a while to strip paint from there;
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8460625110/
Have to wait till tomorrow...need table saw to cut acrylic, and place in two PEM's; and mark holes for rest...But wifes car in the way...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8459523699/

STH10 triple bay short mount is different in a good way...bottom hole is fixed; rest are adjustable horizontally only...so all 3 units line up:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8459524651/

Have to cut the custom steel bracket for Dual Vanday bay that I made:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8460625554/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8459523497/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8459523291/


----------



## socketus

Oh MY ! its coming together, obviously you had a vision, and are still having it. That's quite the trip to get this build going where you want it to end up at. Its gonna be hard to look at the final build, I'm so used to seeing parts parts and more parts being worked on. Before this project, had you ever had such an experience with so many different tools, designing, measuring, cutting, etc ? Man ! literally the Noah's ark of gathered tools and mods


----------



## mandrix

Lots of progress.
How are you securing those window screws? Looks like they flush mount?


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Oh MY ! its coming together, obviously you had a vision, and are still having it. That's quite the trip to get this build going where you want it to end up at. Its gonna be hard to look at the final build, I'm so used to seeing parts parts and more parts being worked on. Before this project, had you ever had such an experience with so many different tools, designing, measuring, cutting, etc ? Man ! literally the Noah's ark of gathered tools and mods


Vision is still consistent.. Yes on the design, measuring, different tools - The main workbench with drawers and sliders - that is precision work as well-but there is so much room for fixing errors with wood... This is the first time for me with metal and acrylic - so that was a whole new experience.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Lots of progress.
> How are you securing those window screws? Looks like they flush mount?


Those are PEMS from CaseLabs. Same ones used to hold the STH10 main door window. They have little studs at the base, which when hammered/pressure (really need to use an arbor press for this); they lock into to place . Here are the different types of PEM fastening products you can buy.


----------



## Seanimus

Cut the acrylic and drilled first two holes...and **** the PEM are too short...8mm..should have asked for 10 or 12mm for 0.25" acrylic.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8462571282/

Oh well, I am not waiting for another week and paying shipping again. Just going to do a 1/2" hole for the nut to fit in.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8461471787/

Maybe when Evonik transparent is available again, I will make a bigger window next year and get the right size PEM.
But for now it fits..yay:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8461471445/

Flipped it around and time to mark the other holes. Had to come back in the house...and warm up...Its freezing in NJ.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8462570294/


----------



## socketus

didn't you get hit by that blizzard ? man, its gotta suck on the east coast when the blizzards hit ! All those people in such a small area


----------



## modnoob

I was in NYC and I got school off for me so how are you caring in nj


----------



## Seanimus

Wan't going to go out there and shuvell even in NJ it was like a foot. Even the guys that I pay to shuvell, didn't show up. Finally neighbour's boyfriend called some his friends to do with a truck & snowblower; so i paid them $100 to get it cleaned. Driveway is huge- can hold like 7 cars.
I should move to middle of the US away from any of these coast lines. heh.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8463379200/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8463378960/


----------



## socketus

I wonder if that's a first - CaseLabs top window - looking gooD !


----------



## Seanimus

Probably the first. Have to prime and stuff now.
Next week, etch the acrylic and then put RGB strip connected to NZXT fading random lights.


----------



## Seanimus

But bondo like spackle on sheet rock:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8463936042/

Steel bracket shortened, polished, and M3 threaded holes.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8462835339/

Nice on the outside...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8462835997/

Now I can line it up, and mark M3 holes for other bracket:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8462835053/

Also I am going to paint all 3 faceplates again : This time together..so they blend nicely from brown on bottom to maroon on top.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8463934502/

Going to sand down STH10 top cover and prime it tonight.


----------



## Seanimus

Polished acrylic:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8467448300/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8467447878/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8467448096/

Top cover paint...bit off from original STH10...not going to pay for shipping and having it CaseLabs powder coated.. hmmm ..maybe ...i dont know; for now leaving it alone.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8467447518/

Still working on the blending on center piece:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8467447726/


----------



## Seanimus

Just some minor update for the way the paint cured overnight:
There is masking tape behind the middle plate...because I polished it.
Leaving front blending this way; enough fooling around. Put clear coat gloss on it and its drying at the moment.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8468757487/

Here's a shot of the back ...its all polished...Couldn't get something nice to show that its polished well...Can see the the RGB colors in the reflection; but doesn't show well in photo.
This eliminates the need for me to have a chrome paint here...and will go nicely on top of the acrylic...without it ever sticking in the future.
This is to get the RGB led to start reflecting more and sending the light outwards and back.
Took a while to get it shiny.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8468757261/

The top color of white is off from STH10. Had to go manual mode on camera to get this shot...
Its obvious with the eye. Giving it another coat of white paint and will see tomorrow on how big a difference it is than the white on STH10.
I am not paying for shipping and sending from east coast to west to get it powder coated by CaseLabs. Maybe next year.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8469851326/


----------



## TPE-331

Great modding, can't get enough of this build log.


----------



## ForestGirl111

Who am I to disappoint?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForestGirl111*
> 
> Who am I to disappoint?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Haha, Old picture or did the snow already melt for you?


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Haha, Old picture or did the snow already melt for you?


Sharp eyes and very good point lol

Because of your build Seanimus, I have broken down and made my order from MDPC for a crimper and some parts. Soldering on pins wasnt working as good as I thought it would. I take it I shouldnt use the MDPC crimper to crimp the Mini Tamiya connectors should I??

EDIT: I take it the crimper you got from Polulo is the one for the tamiya connectors??


----------



## mandrix

I used the MDPC crimper for the mini tamiya pins, worked out fine for me. They are close to the size of minifit Jr pins.

Aye yi yi! 2000 posts already.


----------



## polarbeardav

89 pages ftw


----------



## Nutman

Long time since I posted, but now I have something to suggest, so here we go: why not make a combined faceplate for those three 5.25" devices? Would look much cleaner, I think...


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nutman*
> 
> Long time since I posted, but now I have something to suggest, so here we go: why not make a combined faceplate for those three 5.25" devices? Would look much cleaner, I think...


Now thats a great idea.


----------



## socketus

a collective


----------



## Seanimus

Have not put gloss or matte finish on top cover. Will check out some car body shops to see if I can get it to match the color closely.
The places where I put the PEM. The paint job there did not come out good. The bondo had to sanded down more and finer...and probably needed another layer on it. Maybe I am using the wrong version of Bondo.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8476776387/

The clip that I saw Brandon using..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8477866002/

Dreading the next part of working on Vandal back wiring...
Have to cut the molex pins...(1) run 12V + and - to first Vandal LED, (2) use same + for NO pin on vandal; (3) run C pin on Vandal and - from LED to the device that I want to control...will place a Tamiya connector here.
Repeat again for second Vandal...and then lastly for PWM fans.
Have to make all that fit in there....sheesh.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8476776271/


----------



## goodtobeking

Yeah I have a bunch of wires coming out of my Aquaero LT, couldnt imagine trying to wire two of them up and keeping as clean as you are.


----------



## Seanimus

By the way you need pololu crimper for USB pins. Otherwise mdpc is fine for rest


----------



## mandrix

Just wanted to throw in here that if you plan on using the relay on the AQ5 to shut the system down on alarm condition you might want to go ahead and make provisions for that before final assembly.
I decided that for me wiring the relay across the switch was easiest, and I powered the AQ5 in standby with +5VSB & ground split off from the 24 pin.

Don't remember if you brought this up before, too many build logs to remember everything.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Just wanted to throw in here that if you plan on using the relay on the AQ5 to shut the system down on alarm condition you might want to go ahead and make provisions for that before final assembly.
> I decided that for me wiring the relay across the switch was easiest, and I powered the AQ5 in standby with +5VSB & ground split off from the 24 pin.
> Don't remember if you brought this up before, too many build logs to remember everything.


Did not have any plans of Alarm and Shutdown; in original design. Let me know the which post which details wiring...

lot of work...did half so far..

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8480975944/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8480975710/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8480974932/
Have to glue the RGB when done with:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8480975460/
Lots of wires; atleast 20+ will go through right clip:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8479884659/
Power for top PWM fans; I am just going to solder...instead of Tamiya.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8480974386/
Decided to expand design, and go second set of PWM fans...for future expansion:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8479884127/


----------



## Seanimus

Lost track of how many wires are going in and out, of these 3 bays...Wild guess but should be around 100+ (individual wires) when its done. I have consolidated multiple 26AWG outside and to the side of the bay to make this easier.
And consolidated 18AWG + and - into single sleeve. Otherwise nothing is gonig to fit.

6 +ve PWM wires going to single 18AWG:

Same for -ve, and put both +ve and -ve into single black sleeve:


Other end drawing power is here with black sleeve:


Red and Brown power for each of the White SLightboxes; both of which terminate with Mini-tamiya connector:


Angled shot:


Top shot...other than pwm wire going to AQ5's...rest on right will go through PClip:


Which will get mounted on the M3 in front of the 10mm Standoff:


Extending RGB cable to go straight to RGB Amp. Initially thought I will do female 4 pin connector..but need to reduce connectors in build, when not necessary for dismantling:


Doing RGB for other one next and then USB....Not doing Aquabus tonight...that will take a long time.


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Just some minor update for the way the paint cured overnight:
> There is masking tape behind the middle plate...because I polished it.
> Leaving front blending this way; enough fooling around. Put clear coat gloss on it and its drying at the moment.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8468757487/
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a shot of the back ...its all polished...Couldn't get something nice to show that its polished well...Can see the the RGB colors in the reflection; but doesn't show well in photo.
> This eliminates the need for me to have a chrome paint here...and will go nicely on top of the acrylic...without it ever sticking in the future.
> This is to get the RGB led to start reflecting more and sending the light outwards and back.
> Took a while to get it shiny.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8468757261/
> 
> 
> 
> The top color of white is off from STH10. Had to go manual mode on camera to get this shot...
> Its obvious with the eye. Giving it another coat of white paint and will see tomorrow on how big a difference it is than the white on STH10.
> I am not paying for shipping and sending from east coast to west to get it powder coated by CaseLabs. Maybe next year.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8469851326/


Got to love that Husky screwdriver, aren't they great?


----------



## mandrix

cpachris found this diagram somewhere, this is how I have mine wired. I set alarm conditions for temperature and low flow in Aquasuite.
Alternately you could wire the relay between pin 16 (ps_on) somewhere between the psu and motherboard connector like the ATX break connectors Aquacomputer sells.
You would need one relay connector and one 2 pin connector for the 5v SB on the Aquaero.


If you do this you may need to provide +5v standby power to the Aquaero. I did, I think it's needed to return the relay to NO. I tapped off the 24 pin cables for pin 9 (+5VSB) & pin 7 (ground). I use a 10 second timeout in the software and the relay returns to normal condition.

To me it's just added insurance that the rig will shut down if it hits an overheat or low flow (possible leak) condition.
Your call.


----------



## cookiesowns

Hi Seanimus,

Been lurking around in here, and read through everything awhile back. Just have to say incredible build & patience too!

I do however have one question, Could you summarize the Crimps, Wire ( brand and awg ), and the connectors you were using for the HDD/SSD stack, as well as your 24 pin?

Also, I remember a post stating the type of wire that you were using, is it the same ones from Amazon or was it Carol?


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForestGirl111*
> 
> Who am I to disappoint?


Much thanks FG. A breath of fresh air as I try and catch up on build logs.


----------



## ForestGirl111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Much thanks FG. A breath of fresh air as I try and catch up on build logs.










Thank you, cpachris.

It's a couple weeks old (before the snow). Now that it's freezing out I only have photos of me in a huge parka sledding, but you would never know its me!


----------



## cpachris

I'm sure the parka is cute....but hopefully warm weather brings swimsuits out before you know it.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Got to love that Husky screwdriver, aren't they great?


Yep for price..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> cpachris found this diagram somewhere, this is how I have mine wired. I set alarm conditions for temperature and low flow in Aquasuite.
> Alternately you could wire the relay between pin 16 (ps_on) somewhere between the psu and motherboard connector like the ATX break connectors Aquacomputer sells.
> You would need one relay connector and one 2 pin connector for the 5v SB on the Aquaero. If you do this you may need to provide +5v standby power to the Aquaero. I did, I think it's needed to return the relay to NO. I tapped off the 24 pin cables for pin 9 (+5VSB) & pin 7 (ground). I use a 10 second timeout in the software and the relay returns to normal condition.
> To me it's just added insurance that the rig will shut down if it hits an overheat or low flow (possble leak) condition.
> Your call.


I have to do this...just don't know when.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookiesowns*
> 
> Hi Seanimus,
> Been lurking around in here, and read through everything awhile back. Just have to say incredible build & patience too!
> I do however have one question, Could you summarize the Crimps, Wire ( brand and awg ), and the connectors you were using for the HDD/SSD stack, as well as your 24 pin?
> Also, I remember a post stating the type of wire that you were using, is it the same ones from Amazon or was it Carol?


What is Carol...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Much thanks FG. A breath of fresh air as I try and catch up on build logs.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForestGirl111*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you, cpachris.
> It's a couple weeks old (before the snow). Now that it's freezing out I only have photos of me in a huge parka sledding, but you would never know its me!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I'm sure the parka is cute....but hopefully warm weather brings swimsuits out before you know it.


Chris is relentless. I have to be neutral [HR issues otherwise :\]
Cut in half a single NZXT USB Cable:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8496035093/

made 2 usb cables out of those:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8496034917/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8496034735/

Still keeping it controlled in there...huge numbers of wires...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8497139574/

RGB out and Aquabus left


----------



## cookiesowns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> What is Carol...


I looked up the wires you used on the original parts list, and Carol wires showed up as one of the results. I guess you did not use them. You think you could try and summarize my question up? It would help a ton!


----------



## Seanimus

Here's what I have
Amazon search for NTE 18 AWG
Frozen CPU SATA Pass through Connector (no crimps required)
Frozen CPU 24 Pin Connector


----------



## cookiesowns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Here's what I have
> Amazon search for NTE 18 AWG
> Frozen CPU SATA Pass through Connector (no crimps required)
> Frozen CPU 24 Pin Connector


Good stuff man! Thanks!

You used 18AWG for the SATA pass throughs right?


----------



## Seanimus

Yes the discussion is in post #171


----------



## Seanimus

This is a photo that Shoggy gave me from Aquacomputer to use as a guide for wire colors coming out of their devices The red always goes to the *triangle* for USB, same side is the red for the Aquabus in all their devices.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8501114337/

Flow Meter:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8502222398/
Pump Adaptor:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8501115319/
Pump:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8502221716/

Just used the 22AWG Cable that is built for Aquabus here for a photo. When done this 22 AWG cable will come out of AQ5 (2 feet long). Other end is open for now
I will go the other way from each of the devices with 26AWG and then line them up and cut/solder.
Doing it from start to finish from one end, is just too much measuring and pain. This is much faster.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8502222590/

This part is done now...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8501114847/

Front left - PWM ; Front Right is Aquabus. Back left : RGB Back Right: USB. In addition are the Radiator fans which will on on the left side of AQ5. Can't show it in this shot; but after its assembled.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8502221210/

*Mandrix*:
Still thinking about the relay to auto shutdown the computer. I take it its based on information received on AquaSuite through USB, so I don't have to daisy chain the Alarm outputs from each of the AQ Devices?


----------



## mandrix

Nope. So anything that shows up in Aquasuite as a data source (fans, flow, temperature, pumps, fill level) can be used to configure an alarm condition.
The alarms are set in software but written to memory when you click the disk icon, as I understand it, so Aquasuite shouldn't actually have to be running.

After configuring the alarm condition(s), just go to the alarm configuration page and select what you want to happen when the condition is met. You can also set the amount of time to ignore alarms on power up.

When you get everything set up, you can test that the relay will actually shut down the machine by going to the output page to the relay and clicking "on". Mine shuts down pretty fast when the relay is tripped, although I've never had an actual alarm.


----------



## iMica

Saw that white BMW key you got. How much did it cost to get it in white?

Had to replace mine couple months ago....wasnt cheap lol.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Nope. So anything that shows up in Aquasuite as a data source (fans, flow, temperature, pumps, fill level) can be used to configure an alarm condition.....


Thanks Mandrix..Will circle back to this in a week or so.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMica*
> 
> Saw that white BMW key you got. How much did it cost to get it in white?
> Had to replace mine couple months ago....wasnt cheap lol.


What white BMW key...Didn't replace any key.

Ok now the other end of the wiring (atleast one side of it- the pump & adaptor).
Removing these RGB's from Alphacool plexi is very easily done with wire cutters, as the lip on RGB helps in popping it out. Used pliers first and the RGB started to break on the sides. Have to scratch these and make news ones, as i destroyed the insulation . Might as well...since I didn't have blue 26AWG when I made these so compensated with black for blue..

Also when I did the original...I had a resistors on both Red, Blue , Green wire of each RGB. And then then both sets of wires are soldered together.
If memory serves me right this is not a parallel connection. So I could just have one set of resistors (instead of two set), on Red, Blue, Green; after they are soldered together...Right?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8508142163/

New wiring..Heat shrink goes in a bit:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8508142965/
Single NZXT USB cable cut in half. Foil, Electical tape etc..
Using each half for adaptor and pump.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8508142771/
All done for copper brown side of the house:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8509250124/

Going to repeat whole process for Maroon side tonight and probably tomorrow..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8509249952/

Got new super glue from ... my old one got stuck - cap wouldn't come off ..lol
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8508141967/

This part wasn't really happy with. Ordered 1/8" Red, Green, Blue, Yellow heat shrink from FrozenCPU....And they gave me this , which looks like 0.25".
Back left is something I picked up from HomeDepot today and is 24AWG. Back right is from Radioshack which works great with RGB led insulation after you solder...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8509249426/


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMica*
> 
> Saw that white BMW key you got. How much did it cost to get it in white?
> 
> Had to replace mine couple months ago....wasnt cheap lol.


That was a USB "key", see lower down in linked post

http://www.overclock.net/t/1295989/build-log-caselabs-sth10-aquacomputer-evga-seanimus448/140#post_18201849

Anyway, back on topic....


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks Alan.
Yeah sorry about that picture. Aperture setting on T4i with Brigh white background lights made it look white:
Here's an off-focus shot--too make the colors more apparent in the background.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8508290777/
Its a USB key...Somethign BMW USA sent me as a gift.

Edit:
The question earlier...phrased differently:
Resistors drops current, so basically....
single wire split in two and then same value resistors at the two split ends = single resistor (same value) at the single wire before the split.
?


----------



## iMica

O Lol.

The Screen shot I saw of it in the box made it look white









Looks just like the real key in a picture xP


----------



## DarkDeLaurel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Edit:
> The question earlier...phrased differently:
> Resistors drops current, so basically....
> single wire split in two and then same value resistors at the two split ends = single resistor (same value) at the single wire before the split.
> ?


If i understand you right, then yes you are correct. as long as the resistors at the split ends are equal to the one you would have put in the single end.

Dark


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMica*
> 
> O Lol.
> The Screen shot I saw of it in the box made it look white
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks just like the real key in a picture xP


Yep...first day thought the same, and thought it would activate other apps in BMW.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkDeLaurel*
> 
> If i understand you right, then yes you are correct. as long as the resistors at the split ends are equal to the one you would have put in the single end.
> Dark


Thank you for confirmation.

Red Side of Res with 2x rgb led, aquabusx2 and usbx2 done:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8514039953/


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Looking good!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## seross69

Looking so very good.


----------



## CreepingMoth

I'v spent an hour and a half looking through all 93 pages and its still not done... The only thing that kept me sane was FG







I still love the build though


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CreepingMoth*
> 
> The only thing that kept me sane was FG


yep.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Looking good! Jeffinslaw


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Looking so very good.


Thanks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CreepingMoth*
> 
> I'v spent an hour and a half looking through all 93 pages and its still not done... The only thing that kept me sane was FG
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still love the build though


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> yep.


Lol.


----------



## Seanimus

Last AQ device done:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8520546032/

Last Fan - this one is the exhaust at the back next to motherboard. Initially thought I will just connect this to mobo, but given that I expanded PWM fans to second AQ5 (few posts earlier), I will just run a long wire there.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8519433095/

Took out the orange antivibration pads. Don't need it as they are screwed in from behind the case:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8520545704/

Will clean it up tomorrow...time for Spartacus..


----------



## Seanimus

Did the "new" mobo wall today. Lost Saturday in errands and work.
Doing the AQ5 Pump HOlders with PEM mounts. This way I can just hang the reservoir assembly.
Old way i had to hold it there and put a M3 screw, with a wing nut at the back.
This way is a lot easier. Also joined the 2 oval cutouts near mobo24 pin cable.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8526001853/

From the back, 8 PEM hammered in.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8526001559/

The MDF below had the holes in the right place..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8526001259/

This time only 3/8" hole cut outs below pump [before 3/4" for Molex pin] and 1/2" hole cut outs near 5.25 bay [top left ..before 3/4" and 3 holes].
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8526000927/

Primed it right here so mobo wall, can get some prime on cutouts and PEM.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8526000669/

For Comparison old mobo wall:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8527113126/

Acrylic on the back ... will be with 10mm standoffs...but the hardisk cage and SSD cage's PEM's were in the way to line them up..
So knocked out 3 of the PEM
(shown here with pink dots]
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8526050449/
without pink dots
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8527112688/

Taped it so I can mark the holes of the knockouts. Why drill new holes...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8525999715/

Right 2 M3 screws with nuts and 3/8" hole cut outs for USB to come through. The power from pump will not come out through acrylic, will go behind acrylic and down to "New" power line from PSU.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8525999477/

Now to drill 2 holes on the left, from acrylic straight through aluminium, which is done. Didn't take a shot..

What remains is the Res Holder:
And from the mistake last time, I realized that no matter how good your meaurements the holes will be off...You just have to mount the whole thing, hold it vertically, and then draw out the border for the holeder, while using a bubble to ensure its perpendicular.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8527111916/

Everything is white now...forget the black holder and red Slightbox. This will look better as it will blend more with the mobo wall behind.
And I forgot to take pictures of how I drilled holes throught the SLightbox...Again 10-15mm Standoff (dont know which ones yet). But a 15-20mm M3 bolt will go through the Slightbox into a M3 standoff.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8525999061/


----------



## Seanimus

None of the holes will be seen..
Even the mobo 24pin & SATA cutout will not be seen.

Here is a shot of the res's where you can see the bottom hole. When it is vertical you will not be able to see that ..
Picture with white pump bracket and white 6-32 flange nuts . As mentioned before it is so easy now to mount the entire assembly into the Studs that I put there.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8530226666/

I realized this morning that I could have got 6-32 Standoffs instead of getting new M3 Standoffs. So I put back the Studs (PEM) in the left side (3 pink dots from last night's photo).
Which also means that the right side, for the SLightbox over the 24pin& Sata cutout, I can now use Studs from the back.
So none of the holes will be seen. No screws will be used through the mothberboard wall (except the top black plastic holder for the res).
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8529113515/

From back side you can see the studs going to the front. It went in very nicely
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8529113297/

Waiting for primer to dry a bit.


----------



## Seanimus

Here's a shot with the SLightbox lit up with a 9V battery. Kind of dim, but just wanted to show what it would like :
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8529483083/

This shot shows how the light would come out and fall on the edge of the motherboard, once mounted in case:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8529482923/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8530595132/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8530594934/


----------



## socketus

You know, we come to look and read your posts, and see your work, and tend to forget that you're taking these great pix WHILE you are doing the work ! All those tool buys and cutting and sawing and drilling and its all slowly but surely coming together, this is gonna be one of a kind build. Completely floored by it all


----------



## alancsalt

Impeccable, as always.


----------



## Avonosac

Seriously, this is immaculate.

I started out reading this thread thinking I would never spend $1200 on a GFX card. You and She loved E got me so excited about a new build I bought myself a Titan and block to finish out my prodigy xD


----------



## Killa Cam

man, when is this going to finish? im seriously hating. so much detail and tool pron. i so wish i had a house w/ some sort of garage/basement/attic, where i could go to town on some modding.


----------



## goodtobeking

Hey Seanimus, how did you determine that it was the Aquaero's RGB LED output that fried?? I had a monsoon light port fitting leak and got the LED soaked. I guess it shorted out something with my RGB illumination module. Now I cant turn it on with any color.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> You know, we come to look and read your posts, and see your work, and tend to forget that you're taking these great pix WHILE you are doing the work ! All those tool buys and cutting and sawing and drilling and its all slowly but surely coming together, this is gonna be one of a kind build. Completely floored by it all


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Impeccable, as always.


Thank you .
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Seriously, this is immaculate.
> I started out reading this thread thinking I would never spend $1200 on a GFX card. You and She loved E got me so excited about a new build I bought myself a Titan and block to finish out my prodigy xD


Thanks and enjoy your gpu.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> man, when is this going to finish? im seriously hating. so much detail and tool pron. i so wish i had a house w/ some sort of garage/basement/attic, where i could go to town on some modding.


You are better off without a house in this economy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Hey Seanimus, how did you determine that it was the Aquaero's RGB LED output that fried?? I had a monsoon light port fitting leak and got the LED soaked. I guess it shorted out something with my RGB illumination module. Now I cant turn it on with any color.


Have mulitple AQ5's ...so tested RGB Illumination module on other AQ5's and then retested with AQ5-LT(which blew up).

Perfect holes for M4 screws to hold Res Holder. Did the holes this time, after the Res was vertically lined up with bubble level.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8535888796/

This is my *Old* one...the M4 holes are the ones with arrows on it...had to keep redoing it, till reservoir was vertical.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8535888644/

Ahh man...should not order stuff when I am drunk. Ordered the new Edge Lighting Acrylic...for no reason..(the $32 item)
Not worth returning due to shipping...stuck with it.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8534781211/

Top is the White High Gloss Finish, which I will use at the back of the mobo wall instead of 55% transparency white acrylic:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8534781363/


----------



## Seanimus

0.625" Standoff #6-32
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8541114894/
Looking Good....goes in vertically...so I did the PEM's correctly.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8541114630/

Used 1" #6-32 Screws...And was surprised that it all lined up perfectly:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8541114994/

Silly shot...but just to show:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8540013455/

Got a whole bunch of Standoffs...as I didn't know which way I was going initially M3 with screws on both side....or #6-32 with PEM on one side:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8540013071/

Will use 0.5" standoff on other side:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8541114198/

Thats why i got the new HiGloss White..I see the yellow knife and with all those wires behind it.. will look too busy
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8541114046/

Should have enough room there to run 6 satas and stuff
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8540012669/

The top off the acrylic, I have to mount the USBx2 hubs and Jeak RGB Ampx2

Going to cut the Hi-Gloss White acrylic now...and going to make a bit wider and longer (on the bottom).


----------



## Seanimus

Started to mark up where to cut the 0.25" White Hi-Gloss acrylic panel..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8540162457/

Realized I can make it much cleaner with the cut outs being around the devices.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8541263436/

Dawned on me that I could just use the End-Lighten panel instead...
Ofcourse more steps after that...a) its 0.5" thick and b) would need like a mesh behind and c) do a cut out on solid STH10 back panel cover on for window...and have RGB rotating through the NZXT hue thing...this way when I place the computer in my office...the back wall/blinds/etc in my office will all get lit up with colors as well.

What do you think?

That would be additional work ofcourse. A lot!


----------



## socketus

Do EET ! Do EET !! great idea


----------



## solidshark91493

This thread still amazes me. Wish I had the means to do an amazing project like this.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Do EET ! Do EET !! great idea


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> This thread still amazes me. Wish I had the means to do an amazing project like this.


Thanks, and will do the EndLight next month or so...right now just want to finish the build.

Time to cut
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8541588257/
Behind mobo wall
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8542687504/
Table Saw and 3/4" cutouts
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8541587599/
Dremel Saw Max final cut
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8541587321/
The super thick double USB cable from cardreader can go underneath
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8541587059/
Can even a twist and still fit. Now there are *8x#6-32 standoffs*:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8541586785/
Poor planning...last night when I did the markings I was thinking i could take 3.5" Drive bay in and out while the Acrylic there. Not true since the cable needs to go behind.
Oh well...not starting over...just going to finish using the Hi-Gloss white...to see how many more improvements I can make in the design the second time around (which will be after I get my computer running).
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8542686206/


----------



## Seanimus

Got first hole wrong, so used styrofoam; to mark holes in Studs..
Cut the styrofaom, using the table saw...
Then used drill to pass through them..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8543008511/
Taped it Acrylic, and used drill press.
#6-32 screws from CaseLabs used here..8 of them on 8 standoffs
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8544107340/

Not sure if this is right on not in terms of USB length...but what the hell..lets just go for it..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8544106804/

Cut outs made for cables to go through. NZXT usb hub with black zip ties.
The bottom is without the sticky part.
The Jeak RGB Amp is using M3 screws. Not sure if I need rubber insulation underneath it for Acrylic...Guessing not since Acrylic doesn't conduct..
Will just drop the 2 wire for 12V for the four devices behind the acrylic, solder them and a single pair of cable to bottom of case with mini-Tamiya connector..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8544106620/

Another angle shot. I cracked the Acrylic on the last 0.5" hole for RGB cut out. But it can't be seen..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8544106466/


----------



## Jeffinslaw

I'm really liking what you're doing here, it looks good!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I'm really liking what you're doing here, it looks good!
> Jeffinslaw


Thanks.
My son's game room TV for PS3 was acting up...50" DLP from like 10 years ago...No point paying money to get it fixed, with it being that old; have to just recycle it now.
So giving my son my 47" Sony XBR LCD (6 years old) and got myself the new Samsung 65" LED 8000 Series SMART TV for the home theater room.
The Sony XBR6 65" is like $2k more.
Lost the day in the TV adventure.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks.
> My son's game room TV for PS3 was acting up...50" DLP from like 10 years ago...No point paying money to get it fixed, with it being that old; have to just recycle it now.
> So giving my son my 47" Sony XBR LCD (6 years old) and got myself the new Samsung 65" LED 8000 Series SMART TV for the home theater room.
> The Sony XBR6 65" is like $2k more.
> Lost the day in the TV adventure.












Wow... I wish I could drop $3.5k on a new TV. I suppose I could have considering all I have into this build.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow... I wish I could drop $3.5k on a new TV. I suppose I could have considering all I have into this build.


Well there goes my tax return...now I have nothing left for the rest of they year... Which reminds me, I still have to file.
At least no more spend on the build..almost done..


----------



## ForestGirl111

Stay sane, boys.


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

Impossible!


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForestGirl111*
> 
> Stay sane, boys.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## socketus

Spring is nigh ~


----------



## Seanimus

Mounted mobo wall. Really liking the new minimum hole look. Light years from first round:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8549763555/

Tilted the case..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8549763999/
Wasn't possible to tighten the extender into the Out ports of the Radiator; so larger cutout:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8550863962/
Now i can tighten without cover from underneath:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8549764361/
And then place the cover on:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8549764851/

Tightened everything under the SLightbox:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8549762607/
Fits nicely:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8550862710/
Shot from underneath the Slightbox:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8550862450/


----------



## Avonosac

Chris, you're slipping it was nearly 3 hours before you e-hit on forrestgirl


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Chris, you're slipping it was nearly 3 hours before you e-hit on forrestgirl


E-hit. I like that. Haven't heard that before. But alas, I am just admiring her unique beauty. Not hitting on her. After all, I'm an engaged boy.

But I'll try and be faster next time.


----------



## Seanimus

Took a while to tighten in lower compartment:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8560441325/

Top side:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8561549276/

Connecting without motherboard..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8561549146/

NZXT RGB Hue.. little space to work in. Hence, original design or 22" of slightbox instead of 24"
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8561548986/

Have to figure out route for the thickest cable behind mobo wall...before I do anything else.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8561548642/


----------



## kingchris

Sorry a bit slow catching this build... god my eyes hurt 48 pages.. love the build and attention to detail +REP for the rad issue in the first few posts about fan position on them, i didnt realise about that and im running 2 840mm external. pure luck ive already assembled them and got it the right way for air flow.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> Sorry a bit slow catching this build... god my eyes hurt 48 pages.. love the build and attention to detail +REP for the rad issue in the first few posts about fan position on them, i didnt realise about that and im running 2 840mm external. pure luck ive already assembled them and got it the right way for air flow.


Thanks and 840 mm are huge. You could assemble the whole thing like a home theater system. And those rads could look like speakers....

Speaking of which ... this morning..my 65" arrived.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8563351512/

You just remove these tabs and whole box slides off...one on each corner . front and back.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8563350692/

Took center speaker out which is this huge JMLab one.
Placed the Sony stand there, so when I dismount the Sony TV I can just put it into the stand below.
Lots of dust accumulated.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8563349852/

Just waiting for an hour, for some muscle to arrive, to hold the TV while I unscrew the bolts.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8563350266/

Old Samsung 50" DLP TV will go to the curb . Sony XBR will go to the basement for my son's PS3. And this new Samsung 65" top of the line 8 series will get mounted here.
It has a built in webcam, lan,, can control using iPhone and tons of other features..

What a distraction from the computer build.


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks and 840 mm are huge. You could assemble the whole thing like a home theater system. And those rads could look like speakers....
> 
> Speaking of which ... this morning..my 65" arrived.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8563351512/
> 
> 
> 
> You just remove these tabs and whole box slides off...one on each corner . front and back.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8563350692/
> 
> 
> 
> Took center speaker out which is this huge JMLab one.
> Placed the Sony stand there, so when I dismount the Sony TV I can just put it into the stand below.
> Lots of dust accumulated.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8563349852/
> 
> 
> 
> Just waiting for an hour, for some muscle to arrive, to hold the TV while I unscrew the bolts.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8563350266/
> 
> 
> 
> Old Samsung 50" DLP TV will go to the curb . Sony XBR will go to the basement for my son's PS3. And this new Samsung 65" top of the line 8 series will get mounted here.
> It has a built in webcam, lan,, can control using iPhone and tons of other features..
> 
> What a distraction from the computer build.


65"







enough said!


----------



## Seanimus

So much better now. The 65" fits well with the big home theater room. 80" would also be nice here.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8564038230/

Just some shots from cable box (lowest resolution device I have). BluRay is just too nice to show here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8564037956/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8564037776/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8562933605/
And who said the black levels on Samsung not as good as Sony...looks fine to me...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8564037380/

I saw this last night on Sony XBR3 47". And I never noticed Spartacus scarf thing was purple..hah..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8564036782/

All studio shots, that are masked, don't look nice on this size of the TV.. it's very obvious . Will not enjoy Spartacus as much now. but Game of Thrones is coming soon...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8562932549/


----------



## socketus

Nice to see a dedicated home theater, without the wife factor imposing on speaker placement.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Nice to see a dedicated home theater, without the wife factor imposing on speaker placement.


Definitely ; wife thoroughly enjoyed it last few days.. All the shows look quite different.

Anyways back to the build...have my work cutout for next few days...
Assembled the parts..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8572783655/

All those wires....








http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8572784163/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8573876892/

Don't like the center colors anymore.. sigh... Suggestion of a single face cover for AQ5, Vandal, AQ5 in a triple combo was most appealing. But I need a router for that and just don't have the energy right now. Will paint it white.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8572783385/


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Definitely ; wife thoroughly enjoyed it last few days.. All the shows look quite different.
> 
> Anyways back to the build...have my work cutout for next few days...
> Assembled the parts..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8572783655/
> 
> All those wires....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8572784163/
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8573876892/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Don't like the center colors anymore.. sigh... Suggestion of a single face cover for AQ5, Vandal, AQ5 in a triple combo was most appealing. But I need a router for that and just don't have the energy right now. Will paint it white.
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8572783385/


I think we need MORE!! its looking good!


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> I think we need MORE!! its looking good!


Did it as white now...and did some adjustments with the holes from the bracket..to get to level out better.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8578280957/

The 100 wires ..nicely tucked away
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8579382566/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8579385962/


----------



## luciddreamer124

I like how you used the MDPC clips there. Very nice


----------



## Jeffinslaw

I think the front looks MUCH better now!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## XKaan

Nice work!


----------



## maximus56

The front looks great now, Seanimus


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> I like how you used the MDPC clips there. Very nice


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I think the front looks MUCH better now!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Nice work!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maximus56*
> 
> The front looks great now, Seanimus


Thanks.

Getting complicated now with the back of the motherboard. Those 100's of wires all coming together ...

First thing attached all the wires for pump and adaptor.
Gave up on white painted 6-32 flange nuts. Got more from CaseLabs along with 24xPEMs for future use.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8583329748/

Those are the wires just from pump and its adaptor...







..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8583330330/

Had to take everything apart again and replace the 6/32 standoffs on vertical SLightbox with 0.5".
Couldn't find them in the house for the longest time, and finally realized that I used all 8x on the back of the mobo wall -








Reason needed shorter standoff instead of 0.625" is needed some room the pump adaptor USB & Aquabus wires.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8583329102/

The back...for the acrylic panel everything has to change now...That web of SATA wires will not give me any room to work with.
So the USB hubs have to move down...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8582228189/

In addition the USB moving down...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8583327988/

...I have to cut this part out on the right, as the power switch is in the way.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8582228443/

These standoffs of 0.625" may not be enough..will know later.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8582227667/

On the top right you can see the wires coming from ONE of the AQ5 ...







..


----------



## Seanimus

Round 2 with spare Maroon acrylic (just a test sheet...its going to be scrap anyways).
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8584780088/

Had to use longer 6-32 screws to start squeezing the wires in.. after assembly.
Then replaced the longer screws with smaller to tighten from all sides

The black screws here are the shortest..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8584779456/

Well the door closes..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8584780256/

Thinking I should have two layers of acrylic ..one with 0.3" standoffs for a 6x6" to hold the usb and jeak amp
And then have a 0.25" white acrylic on top with a cutout for the 6x6 and with 1" standoffs.

Which would mean I would have to dismantle the whole thing put, new PEM's for the new standoffs...lot of work; but that would work the best.
I could wire everything place the wires nicely on the 6x6" acrylic with 0.3" standoff
Then place the 12" x 17" white acrylic (have to get new one) on top with 1" standoff and a cutout in that for the USB wires to have head room.


----------



## mandrix

The Aquaero wiring starts adding up, doesn't it? I've worked and worked on the wiring in the front of my case where all the wiring goes to the Aquaero's & PA2's and it's still somewhat of a mess.
I've thought about boxing mine in with some acrylic but I don't want to kill the air circulation.


----------



## seross69

Amazing work and I love the pictures. I think the from looks better all white instead of have the colors around the AQ. You are doing amazing work.. Take a look at my log that i am finally able to start. it is at http://www.overclock.net/t/1374618/excessive-insanity-4-computers-in-a-case-labs-tx10-d-with-dual-pedestals-sponsored-by-ek-water-blocks#post_19589380.

for some reason i do not have the option to put pictures on my log and i dont know why??


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> The Aquaero wiring starts adding up, doesn't it? I've worked and worked on the wiring in the front of my case where all the wiring goes to the Aquaero's & PA2's and it's still somewhat of a mess.
> I've thought about boxing mine in with some acrylic but I don't want to kill the air circulation.


I am good on the AQ side, with the P clips. Its the back side that is annoying me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Amazing work and I love the pictures. I think the from looks better all white instead of have the colors around the AQ. You are doing amazing work.. Take a look at my log that i am finally able to start. it is at http://www.overclock.net/t/1374618/excessive-insanity-4-computers-in-a-case-labs-tx10-d-with-dual-pedestals-sponsored-by-ek-water-blocks#post_19589380.
> for some reason i do not have the option to put pictures on my log and i dont know why??


Thanks.

Used 0.375" Standoff for this white acrylic (scrap material). final will be different.
Have to pickup 6-32 Set screws instead of the Black screws I used there, as I need to put 0.5" standoff on top.
Ordered 1" Standoff for the rest to place the bigger acrylic sheet on top.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8586961608/

Now to make the USBx2 hubs and Jeak to fit in this small area.


----------



## mandrix

I really like the idea of using the standoffs and the acrylic to create a sort of hidden space.
I have a piece of acrylic on the side of my SM8 which I use to mount a mini tamiya wiring harness and a SSD. Not sure if I have enough space to create a void behind the acrylic but I like the thought.


----------



## seross69

Nice idea with the acrylic, i am actually thinking about buying channel Aluminum from home depot or lowes and makeing cable ways with a acrylic top.. hope that i can send it to Jim at case labs and get it powder coated white just like my case if i do this..


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I really like the idea of using the standoffs and the acrylic to create a sort of hidden space.
> I have a piece of acrylic on the side of my SM8 which I use to mount a mini tamiya wiring harness and a SSD. Not sure if I have enough space to create a void behind the acrylic but I like the thought.


Thanks. .
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Nice idea with the acrylic, i am actually thinking about buying channel Aluminum from home depot or lowes and makeing cable ways with a acrylic top.. hope that i can send it to Jim at case labs and get it powder coated white just like my case if i do this..


Thanks. Thought of channels first, but then just decided it do it this way. With layered acrylic -- easier to move cables around and to dismantle.

Got this 22AWG Shielded wire from Home Depot.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8595771077/

Put two of these 4 wire in a SATA sleeve. I really like this wire...compared to working with NZXT by redoing existing wires. Much nicer to deal with; crimps were nice.
You can see them top right near the USB Hub.
It is 26" long.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8596873572/

Got the 1" Standoff (shiny one on left). And now it levels off with right side - (0.375" Standoff + 0.122"Acrylic + 0.5" Standoff)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8596873330/

While doing all this I realized the hub takes 5V..and Jeak amp 12V. The D5 Pump 12 V.
So I have to run 4 wire power up here.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8596873044/

From front the bottom most device is SATA connector for NZXT RGB Hue. So I might as well run SATA wires from PSU and tap into 12V and 5V along the way while the wire is running at the bottom.


----------



## ChromePixels

Amazing


----------



## seross69

Seanimus,

So you are going to use that wire you got from home depot to make your own SATA data Cables or Power??


----------



## Dangur

wowowow


----------



## cpachris

Have I waited long enough from my last FG picture request.......to avoid appearing overly stalker'ish?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Have I waited long enough from my last FG picture request.......to avoid appearing overly stalker'ish?


I think you shouldn't get a picture until you update your build log! Seems fair









Jeffinslaw


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I think you shouldn't get a picture until you update your build log! Seems fair
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


LMAO cold blooded. But Jeffinslaw does have a good point.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I think you shouldn't get a picture until you update your build log! Seems fair
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


I agree they do have a point!!!


----------



## Avonosac

Will still appear stalkerish, but update your log









Crap, I still haven't updated mine


----------



## cpachris

Fair enough. Update.

Now I'm requesting some pretty spring pictures that update us all on latest FG adventures.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Fair enough. Update.
> 
> Now I'm requesting some pretty spring pictures that update us all on latest FG adventures.


Hm... I vote some updated pictures to your log lol! sorry Seanimus to snipe your thread just wondering what happened to Chris's updates.

Anyways nice stuff. I've been watching since the beg. great job.


----------



## bmacks1

Very nice build.... Reading all the information on this post has been very helpful in planning my own STH10 case.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Anyways nice stuff. I've been watching since the beg. great job.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromePixels*
> 
> Amazing


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dangur*
> 
> wowowow


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Anyways nice stuff. I've been watching since the beg. great job.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmacks1*
> 
> Very nice build.... Reading all the information on this post has been very helpful in planning my own STH10 case.


Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Seanimus,
> So you are going to use that wire you got from home depot to make your own SATA data Cables or Power??


Using it for USB Cable. Need 4 wire shielded.
26" USB Cable - 10 pin using Homedepot shielded 4x22AWG wire:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8604134945/

The mini-acrylic board at back"
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8604135297/

Took bottom RGB hue out from bottom:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8604134487/

Made a custom power cable for this into 4pin molex.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8604133807/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8605236592/

Mini-acrylic board with USB 10 pin input:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8604133511/


----------



## Seanimus

Doing the SATA cables behind vertical SLightBox. Looks better-- and was only trying to optimize the room at the back to make more room there.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8606104791/

Front View:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8606105093/

Top view:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8607208982/


----------



## seross69

Nice Cable management...


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Nice Cable management...


Thanks.

Those cables at the back all coming together is really daunting. Had to find the light at the end of tunnel; which I did 2 days back; and now ready for some pictures ..
Tried one day to solder all Aquabus cables. Was pretty much the most difficult task I had to do while everything was attached on computer.
Gave up on that; and decided to hook the Aquabus with 4 pin male fan connectors.
So needed the female version daisy chaining 4 devices on each loop. AQ5, Pump, Adaptor, Flow meter.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8620264185/

Cut the AQ Pump and Adaptor Aquabus cables and redid the shortened sleeves outside the computer.
Some I had to do while attached to the computer which was a painful.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8620264061/

All connections done in next 2 shots including RGB.
For the Jeak RGB amp , had to use the 3 and 4 pin connectors that had the longer guide on the side.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8620263861/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8620263645/

That leaves now only the power connections remaining
2 cables on ground for the pump, 1 SLightbox cable with mini Tamiya (other one is done) and power to 4 Pin Molex in first picture, and SATA like connection to NZXT RGB Hue.

Still a lot of work left for the back.


----------



## seross69

Seanimus,

Where did you find the white SATA connectors??


----------



## Seanimus

Data Connectors are here:

Power Connectors (pass through) are here


----------



## Solonowarion

Looking gooood.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Data Connectors are here:
> 
> Power Connectors (pass through) are here


Seanimus,

thanks for this I guess i just needed to look but i swear i had not noticed the white ones before. Maybe because everytime i look at cables or colors my 4 year old wants orange, pink, purple and green. So I try not to look too close when she is around. she already made me promise to do power cables and sleeving in these colors. (made wife happy and as you know this is good)


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8620263861/


and i thought my cables were building up!

ive gone off cables at the moment, just had a bad run firing my rig up!









but i do like watching other peoples.


----------



## Freezera

Seanimus, have read all your 100 pages

And now i just got 5 words for you: INSANE SON OF A B*TCH!

(lol, that's the first time i use that word as a compliment, well i guess you deserve it







)

Epic build dude!


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> thanks for this I guess i just needed to look but i swear i had not noticed the white ones before. Maybe because everytime i look at cables or colors my 4 year old wants orange, pink, purple and green. So I try not to look too close when she is around. she already made me promise to do power cables and sleeving in these colors. (made wife happy and as you know this is good)


Welcome
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freezera*
> 
> Seanimus, have read all your 100 pages
> And now i just got 5 words for you: INSANE SON OF A B*TCH!
> (lol, that's the first time i use that word as a compliment, well i guess you deserve it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Epic build dude!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Looking gooood.


Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> and i thought my cables were building up!
> ive gone off cables at the moment, just had a bad run firing my rig up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but i do like watching other peoples.


Two AQ5 for 2 loops with RGB and all those AQ devices wanting wires....







Its a lot. And then you have USB's ..

But the end is near. All power connections done now. Only thing that remains (in terms of wiring) is RGB .. but that's another day-- Still have to figure out which panel will get it first, (Side or Top cover).

The branching for power.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8629738298/

All sleeved with 1 4 wire molex and 2 Mini Tamiya connectors branching from this.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8629737034/

Still have to zip tie the bottom half... The power comes from left - adjacent to 24 Mobo power and taking same curves ..total length like 50".
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8628630685/

Going into PSU (the visible part from front and side.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8629737996/


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Welcome
> 
> Thanks.
> Two AQ5 for 2 loops with RGB and all those AQ devices wanting wires....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a lot. And then you have USB's ..
> 
> But the end is near. All power connections done now. Only thing that remains (in terms of wiring) is RGB .. but that's another day-- Still have to figure out which panel will get it first, (Side or Top cover).
> 
> The branching for power.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8629738298/
> 
> 
> All sleeved with 1 4 wire molex and 2 Mini Tamiya connectors branching from this.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8629737034/
> 
> 
> Still have to zip tie the bottom half... The power comes from left - adjacent to 24 Mobo power and taking same curves ..total length like 50".
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8628630685/
> 
> 
> Going into PSU (the visible part from front and side.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8629737996/


Looking good as always Seanimus!!!!! Don't know what i will do when you finish. Enjoyed your updates so much.. And watching your progress... be able to start mine soon I hope.


----------



## EssArTee4

Epic Rig build. Amazing.


----------



## Ragsters

This is crazy!


----------



## pphx459

Just wanted to let you know how much I love this build and been following along. Just ordered a STH10


----------



## waslakhani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pphx459*
> 
> Just wanted to let you know how much I love this build and been following along. Just ordered a STH10


Build log!!!!!


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pphx459*
> 
> Just wanted to let you know how much I love this build and been following along. Just ordered a STH10


Lol, I'm trying to figure out how many CaseLabes cases in general have been sold because of Sean, his build is a work of art.


----------



## Radmanhs

this system looks awesome! Wish i could afford that!... too bad im a teen hahahaha, what's funny is that my comp is the most expensive thing i own, plus i built it and i have put nearly $400-$500 in upgrades from $1500 lol, i quickly learned that it is a never ending project


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Lol, I'm trying to figure out how many CaseLabes cases in general have been sold because of Sean, his build is a work of art.


Between Sean, Stren, and Merlin is the reason I ordered mine!!! And this is an amazing build....


----------



## Bra1an ita

Hi Seanimus how are you?
maybe you can help me again,wher you find this???
(the rubber to hold together the cables)



thanks in advance Bra1an


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bra1an ita*
> 
> Hi Seanimus how are you?
> maybe you can help me again,wher you find this???
> (the rubber to hold together the cables)
> 
> 
> 
> thanks in advance Bra1an


They have them at PPC and Frozen CPU -- I have ordered some in white from frozen CPU

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13582/ele-857/ModSmart_4_Wire_Kobra_SS_Cable_Bundler_-_White_PCS-CB-4.html?id=d2Sxj8cJ&mv_pc=332


----------



## seross69

Sorry to jump your thread Seanimus but i finally saw a way to help someone so I did...


----------



## Bra1an ita

Thanx alot Seross69..


----------



## pphx459

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waslakhani*
> 
> Build log!!!!!


haha, not sure if it'll look even 1/2 as nice as this build, would prob be embarrassed to show it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Lol, I'm trying to figure out how many CaseLabes cases in general have been sold because of Sean, his build is a work of art.


Yea, that figure would be interesting lol

Need more pics!


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EssArTee4*
> 
> Epic Rig build. Amazing.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> This is crazy!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> this system looks awesome! Wish i could afford that!... too bad im a teen hahahaha, what's funny is that my comp is the most expensive thing i own, plus i built it and i have put nearly $400-$500 in upgrades from $1500 lol, i quickly learned that it is a never ending project


Thanks. Its a long project.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Looking good as always Seanimus!!!!! Don't know what i will do when you finish. Enjoyed your updates so much.. And watching your progress... be able to start mine soon I hope.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pphx459*
> 
> Just wanted to let you know how much I love this build and been following along. Just ordered a STH10


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waslakhani*
> 
> Build log!!!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Lol, I'm trying to figure out how many CaseLabes cases in general have been sold because of Sean, his build is a work of art.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Between Sean, Stren, and Merlin is the reason I ordered mine!!! And this is an amazing build....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pphx459*
> 
> haha, not sure if it'll look even 1/2 as nice as this build, would prob be embarrassed to show it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, that figure would be interesting lol
> Need more pics!


Not sure even Jim at CaseLabs can tell. Unless each order referred back to this build. more Pics:

Powered it up without any fan connections. Had to make sure PWM setting was on Fan4's of the 2 AQ5's.
RGB not connected because the back of the Jeak RGB Amp does not have any insulation.
And I hope I didn't blow up any of the AQ5's RGB outs. Pretty sure I isolated those wires.

2 SLightboxes. Controlled by the Vandal Switches in the front.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8638300353/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8639402446/
Damnit...put a Orange Vandal switch. Not changing that. Too much trouble to disassemble.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8639402288/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8639401430/

With bottom SLightbox powered off:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8639402134/
With vertical Slightbox powered off
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8639401926/
With both on:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8638299359/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8639401558/

From the back; you can see the SATA data cables outline :
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8639401150/

From the top; one of the reservoirs on the right:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8638298659/


----------



## Jeffinslaw

It's looking really good!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> It's looking really good!
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Really good is an understatement if i ever saw one.


----------



## cpachris

Diggin' the light panels. I'm still thinking about trying one myself.


----------



## seross69

Me also liking the slight boxes. nice low diffused light this is best to me.. Has got me think







and that is possible. sometimes


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Me also liking the slight boxes. nice low diffused light this is best to me.. Has got me think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and that is possible. sometimes


Check out the link in my sig!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## pphx459

Holy macro, reminds me of that murderpc back in the day... please make me a slightbox, I'll be HAPPY to pay you!!









You have to switch that orange switch out, this build has got to be perfect!


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> It's looking really good!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Really good is an understatement if i ever saw one.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Diggin' the light panels. I'm still thinking about trying one myself.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Me also liking the slight boxes. nice low diffused light this is best to me.. Has got me think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and that is possible. sometimes


Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pphx459*
> 
> Holy macro, reminds me of that murderpc back in the day... please make me a slightbox, I'll be HAPPY to pay you!! :thumb:You have to switch that orange switch out, this build has got to be perfect!


Thanks and maybe I will switch out the Vandal with the white one later on. At the moment , I can't even find it in the mess downstairs.
I'll make you slightbox for the dimensions of your computer, but it will cost you around $500. It takes a long time to bend aluminum and then to do cutouts after its all bent nicely. Check out the earlier posts on the making. This is not home depot U channels. I have the acrylic, metal etc.

Back to the build.
Doing the final cut on Hi-Gloss White acrylic. Last time I used the wrong side.
Using the existing scrap one as a template:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8640934735/

Where the green dots are...that edge you can see how the acrylic is see through.
Behind the RGB Jeak Amp is 3M dual sided tape. I don't have it sticking to the acrylic. No need as I have screws through them.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8640934589/

The back now is like a high gloss paint. Last time I used this side as the front, and it doesn't look that good.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8640934435/

Using 0.5" Set screws now in the standoff. Since the standoff for this was changed to 0.6". Gives more room for me to push the above through and use the 0.3" stand off on top.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8640934291/

Fired it up, but this time, with RGB LED's connected:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8642035688/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8640934003/

At the back of Vandal Custom Switch bay:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8642035432/

The lights come out nicely from the sides as well.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8642034930/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8640933619/
Side view:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8642034760/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8640933099/
Finger prints:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8640932933/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8642034364/

Now have to connect all the fans.
Have to build a long cable for the exhaust fan (forgot about that ). One should be plenty, with such an open case as I cut out the bottom and top partitions.


----------



## seross69

Seanimus,

WOW is all i CAN SAY. LOOKS really good....


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks.
> Thanks and maybe I will switch out the Vandal with the white one later on. At the moment , I can't even find it in the mess downstairs.
> I'll make you slightbox for the dimensions of your computer, but it will cost you around $500. It takes a long time to bend aluminum and then to do cutouts after its all bent nicely. Check out the earlier posts on the making. This is not home depot U channels. I have the acrylic, metal etc.
> 
> Back to the build.
> Doing the final cut on Hi-Gloss White acrylic. Last time I used the wrong side.
> Using the existing scrap one as a template:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8640934735/
> 
> Where the green dots are...that edge you can see how the acrylic is see through.
> Behind the RGB Jeak Amp is 3M dual sided tape. I don't have it sticking to the acrylic. No need as I have screws through them.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8640934589/
> 
> The back now is like a high gloss paint. Last time I used this side as the front, and it doesn't look that good.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8640934435/
> 
> Using 0.5" Set screws now in the standoff. Since the standoff for this was changed to 0.6". Gives more room for me to push the above through and use the 0.3" stand off on top.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8640934291/
> 
> Fired it up, but this time, with RGB LED's connected:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8642035688/
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8640934003/
> 
> At the back of Vandal Custom Switch bay:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8642035432/
> 
> The lights come out nicely from the sides as well.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8642034930/
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8640933619/
> Side view:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8642034760/
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8640933099/
> Finger prints:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8640932933/
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8642034364/
> 
> Now have to connect all the fans.
> Have to build a long cable for the exhaust fan (forgot about that ). One should be plenty, with such an open case as I cut out the bottom and top partitions.






Looks great man. Really like the light box's


----------



## Bart

Looks spectacular!! Seanimus, did you use RGB LEDs in the reservoirs too? I noticed the color difference between the 2 reservoirs and was wondering why that was.


----------



## pphx459

Looking terrific, I'll message you about the slight box once I get my case.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Seanimus, WOW is all i CAN SAY. LOOKS really good....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Looks great man. Really like the light box's


Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pphx459*
> 
> Looking terrific, I'll message you about the slight box once I get my case.


Thanks and look forward to your PM
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Looks spectacular!! Seanimus, did you use RGB LEDs in the reservoirs too? I noticed the color difference between the 2 reservoirs and was wondering why that was.


Thanks and was playing with AQ5 RGB outputs and somehow managed to get it to give different output lights. It will not be that way in final; as it will be based on Water Temperature.

Exhaust and all other fans running:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8644922908/
Exhaust PWM on bottom AQ5 and rest Intake PWM fans on top AQ5:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8644922654/
Close up shot:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8643826819/


----------



## Seanimus

Filled it with water.
First time, I didn't have the other side of the graphic card's G1/4 ports tightened and water fell on SLightbox.
The left reservoir had to be tightened.
The CPU top G1/4 plug didn't have O ring.




Ran for 40 mins so far. Probably another 12 hours.


----------



## seross69

looking good!!!!


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> looking good!!!!


Thanks.

1" standoff on left and bottom not enough. Need 1.25". Used two standoffs of 1 and 0.25 to compensate for now.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8647398390/

Will cut another test acrylic before the final.

meanwhile the bubbles are making the reservoir brighter with the RGB:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8647398176/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8646302361/

I have a thin film of water in between the layers of acrylic of slight box. Can't seem to squeeze it out don't want to drain the whole system and dismantle. Will take long time. Any quick fix--hair dryer didn't work.
Got it out from vertical slightbox, dismantled the easy one... there wasn't even any water that was visible, just the exposure to the air removed it.
Don't know how to get it out from the horizontal Slightbox, which has the G1/4 bulk heads on it. Sigh....hairdryer just moved it around... sheesh.


----------



## Bart

They look so good!







Damn you, you're making me want to buy another tube res, or 2!!!


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 1" standoff on left and bottom not enough. Need 1.25". Used two standoffs of 1 and 0.25 to compensate for now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8647398390/
> 
> Will cut another test acrylic before the final.
> 
> meanwhile the bubbles are making the reservoir brighter with the RGB:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8647398176/
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8646302361/
> 
> 
> I have a thin film of water in between the layers of acrylic of slight box. Can't seem to squeeze it out don't want to drain the whole system and dismantle. Will take long time. Any quick fix--hair dryer didn't work.
> Got it out from vertical slightbox, dismantled the easy one... there wasn't even any water that was visible, just the exposure to the air removed it.
> Don't know how to get it out from the horizontal Slightbox, which has the G1/4 bulk heads on it. Sigh....hairdryer just moved it around... sheesh.


I would try a can of compressed air and try to just push the water out.


----------



## seross69

Too bad about the leaks but the reservoirs sure look good!!!!


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> They look so good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn you, you're making me want to buy another tube res, or 2!!!


It looks so good...I am drooling myself. Wife and son are also staring...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I would try a can of compressed air and try to just push the water out.


No room to get a nozzle in there...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Too bad about the leaks but the reservoirs sure look good!!!!


That initial overflow due to graphics card top g1/4 stop ones messed this up....now I am just going to live with that....
Unless I have to remove motherboard or graphics card; in which case I have to drain the loop.

This test run with brown acrylic is good...will use this as template with slight modifications..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8646666909/


----------



## seross69

Seanimus,

You still up working on you PC this late?? OH the dedication. I would have already had a few drinks and been telling stories by now especially on a Saturday night!!


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Seanimus,
> You still up working on you PC this late?? OH the dedication. I would have already had a few drinks and been telling stories by now especially on a Saturday night!!


Believe it or not....hammered and working (real work remotely) and posting as well.
Now to watch some TV...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Believe it or not....hammered and working (real work remotely) and posting as well.
> Now to watch some TV...


Ok I actually do this quite often doing work, posting and playing all at the same time.. I have found that I have money that becomes missing on these nights and i get packages a few days later no having any idea why or what they are..







Have one for me









Funny thing is when i was younger i would wake up places i did not know and people i did not remember. now that i am older i act better stay at home. but money disappears and nice PC parts come to me.

I like being older better.


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 1" standoff on left and bottom not enough. Need 1.25". Used two standoffs of 1 and 0.25 to compensate for now.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8647398390/
> 
> Will cut another test acrylic before the final.
> 
> meanwhile the bubbles are making the reservoir brighter with the RGB:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8647398176/
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8646302361/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have a thin film of water in between the layers of acrylic of slight box. Can't seem to squeeze it out don't want to drain the whole system and dismantle. Will take long time. Any quick fix--hair dryer didn't work.
> Got it out from vertical slightbox, dismantled the easy one... there wasn't even any water that was visible, just the exposure to the air removed it.
> Don't know how to get it out from the horizontal Slightbox, which has the G1/4 bulk heads on it. Sigh....hairdryer just moved it around... sheesh.


always nice when you get them on water!
looking good


----------



## pphx459

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> .. I have found that I have money that becomes missing on these nights and i get packages a few days later no having any idea why or what they are..


hah, happens to me all the time









Reservoirs look great!


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks for comments.
Problem....
Connected everything and stuck on Post 09

0x01 - Power on. Reset type detection (soft/hard).
0x02 - AP initialization before microcode loading
0x03 - North Bridge initialization before microcode loading
0x04 - South Bridge initialization before microcode loading
0x05 - OEM initialization before microcode loading
0x06 - Microcode loading
0x07 - AP initialization after microcode loading
0x08 - North Bridge initialization after microcode loading
0x09 - South Bridge initialization after microcode loading
0x0A - OEM initialization after microcode loading
0x0B - Cache initialization
0x0C - 0x0D - Reserved for future AMI SEC error codes
0x0E - Microcode not found
0x0F - Microcode not loaded

Any thoughts...clear CMOS, put only 1 memory module.?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks for comments.
> Problem....
> Connected everything and stuck on Post 09
> 
> 0x01 - Power on. Reset type detection (soft/hard).
> 0x02 - AP initialization before microcode loading
> 0x03 - North Bridge initialization before microcode loading
> 0x04 - South Bridge initialization before microcode loading
> 0x05 - OEM initialization before microcode loading
> 0x06 - Microcode loading
> 0x07 - AP initialization after microcode loading
> 0x08 - North Bridge initialization after microcode loading
> 0x09 - South Bridge initialization after microcode loading
> 0x0A - OEM initialization after microcode loading
> 0x0B - Cache initialization
> 0x0C - 0x0D - Reserved for future AMI SEC error codes
> 0x0E - Microcode not found
> 0x0F - Microcode not loaded
> 
> Any thoughts...clear CMOS, put only 1 memory module.?


Seanmus,

If it was working before i believe all I would do is clear CMOS. But i have also been told that I do this too fast.. I just know if it was working before and you have made changes to original CMOS something might have got corrupted and clearing it will fix this only problem with this is you really don't know what caused it and have to start over with overclocking settings!!


----------



## Seanimus

Nevermind false alarm. It was not 09. It was 60....my mobo is upside down, and it was related to memory.
DIMMS 3 and 4 had to be reinstalled.

Mobo displays CPU temperature after successful POST.
Now at 28 degrees top left.
The EVGA logo on the mobo will keep flashing even after power down, until all power has dissipated.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8649856267/

Connected via HDMI using EVGA Adaptor. Found this nice looking USB cable in the basement. I knew I had some there when I changed hometheather to use HDMI in wall cables.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8649856013/

Set it up at the bar in the kitchen/family room for now. Need help lifting this case to my office upstairs.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8649855745/


----------



## Bart

Don't throw your back out on this buddy, we need you to keep working!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Don't throw your back out on this buddy, we need you to keep working!


Yes I 2nd that don't get hurt as I have got a lot of ideas and inspiration from watching your build.


----------



## Seanimus

Can't believe it booted .... Updates at the moment


----------



## pphx459

Oh damn.. just in time , gl


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Can't believe it booted .... Updates at the moment


Why Can't you believe it booted?? It is just doing what it is suppose to do....


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Why Can't you believe it booted?? It is just doing what it is suppose to do....


Because there are like 200 wires with 200 feet of cabling all done custom built.

In AquaSuite...how do I set it up to have 2 Aquaero 5.
Its only recognizing the top one.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Because there are like 200 wires with 200 feet of cabling all done custom built.
> 
> In AquaSuite...how do I set it up to have 2 Aquaero 5.
> Its only recognizing the top one.


Sorry I have not done this yet but I was told me just hook them together using the high speed bus. See the email below

_Hi,

you can connect two aquaero lt with the aquabus cable and use one of the aquaeros as a slave. You don't need a pro or xt to do this.

Best regards,
Stephan Wille_

I don't know if this will help but I hope so??

I had all the faith in the world in you that everything would work perfect!!!


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Because there are like 200 wires with 200 feet of cabling all done custom built.
> 
> In AquaSuite...how do I set it up to have 2 Aquaero 5.
> Its only recognizing the top one.


I believe you DON'T connect the two Aquaero's Via their Aquabus (you stand a very good chance of bricking both units) If your running two seperate Main units they need to be connected to the motherboard via their USB connections only.....

The only time you are supposed to connect two units together is when you Flash an LT to a Slave device & this is the only time that you would connect two Aquaero's together using their Aquabus AFTER you have flashed the LT to be used as a Slave...... But your running two main units.... so both units need to be connected Via USB ONLY!!!...

Be aware mind that some people have had issues running two seperate units togther with Aquasuite, but this is being worked on at the moment & a fix should be released in the next Firmware update









This may help you out Seanimus HERE scroll down to post #5 where Sebastian sugests a work around!! ... Fantastic work by the way Seanimus









N.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> I believe you DON'T connect the two Aquaero's Via their Aquabus (you stand a very good chance of bricking both units) If your running two seperate Main units they need to be connected to the motherboard via their USB connections only.....
> 
> The only time you are supposed to connect two units together is when you Flash an LT to a Slave device & this is the only time that you would connect two Aquaero's together using their Aquabus AFTER you have flashed the LT to be used as a Slave...... But your running two main units.... so both units need to be connected Via USB ONLY!!!...
> 
> Be aware mind that some people have had issues running two seperate units togther with Aquasuite, but this is being worked on at the moment & a fix should be released in the next Firmware update
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This may help you out Seanimus HERE scroll down to post #5 where Sebastian sugests a work around!! ... Fantastic work by the way Seanimus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> N.


Maybe you are right but Stephan from AquaComputer is who told that in a email..


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Because there are like 200 wires with 200 feet of cabling all done custom built.
> 
> In AquaSuite...how do I set it up to have 2 Aquaero 5.
> Its only recognizing the top one.


http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/103112-dual-aquaero-pro-5-s-confuses-aquasuite-2013-2/

Edit: Oops, missed the link already above.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Maybe you are right but Stephan from AquaComputer is who told that in a email..


From Aquacomputers Forum.... Aquaero's & Slave devices.... "Post #2".....









N.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> From Aquacomputers Forum.... Aquaero's & Slave devices.... "Post #2".....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> N.


Ok i am sorry I have been reading just now in the AQ forums and You are right no PMW function on 2nd AQ.. butr have all other functions.









this doesn't bother me as i am not going to use the AQ's to control my pumps or I don't think I am?









Sorry Guys. This actually makes me







as I hate to give wrong info. I think I will keep my mouth shut from now own. Unless I know from experience. I might have 2 LT's but they are still in the box...


----------



## Nornam

No worries...







.... When you do use an LT as Slave device you gain 4 x Fan headers & 4 x Temp sensors that's it.... No other headers are active apart from the High speed Aquabus as an Outlet to a connected main unit... I have two systems running an LT as a slave....

It's all a fairly big learning curve for most of use using an Aquaero so don't feel to mad







..

Sorry for going off topic Seanimus... I'll stop now







..

N.


----------



## Seanimus

Its fine for the discussion on master/slave. The 2x AQ5's have to be separate, to use the RGB's from each independent of each other. This was a long topic earlier in the build log.

I believe what is going wrong is that you have to connect only 1 AQ device via USB at a time, upgrade the firmware and then reboot and connect the next.
Now the 2 AQ5's are visible in Aquasuite.

However with all this monkeying around of connecting the USB cables live, I had multiple BSOD, and somewhere along the way the mirrored SSD went south. This RAID software on EVGA doesn't rebuild the array and leaves that up to the OS to rebuild. Maybe that is right---I thought on ASUS the RAID software did all the work independent of the OS.

The next thing I need to do is to get the EVGA Bios upgraded. There is still a small error with post codes B2 & B4 and during the boot it says AHCI no disk drives detected. Annoying.

Also, I connected the 2x flow meter and 1 of the Pump Adaptor, via USB, and it was visible in Aquasuite.
The Pumps are not visible in Aquasuite as yet.


----------



## DarkDeLaurel

Can't wait to see how you get the AQ setup so I have an idea how to do mine lol.

Keep up the great work, those slight boxes make me want to put them in my build haha damn!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkDeLaurel*
> 
> Can't wait to see how you get the AQ setup so I have an idea how to do mine lol.
> 
> Keep up the great work, those slight boxes make me want to put them in my build haha damn!


I agree want to see this also and have a lot more reading to do on this I see


----------



## Pole04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Ok i am sorry I have been reading just now in the AQ forums and You are right no PMW function on 2nd AQ.. butr have all other functions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this doesn't bother me as i am not going to use the AQ's to control my pumps or I don't think I am?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry Guys. This actually makes me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as I hate to give wrong info. I think I will keep my mouth shut from now own. Unless I know from experience. I might have 2 LT's but they are still in the box...


This is the way you learn. Never be afraid to be corrected, it will save you major headaches in the end.

I am looking forward to seeing your AQ5 setup on this too. It is on my wish list and I should have mine coming in within the next 2 months. Great build log and a major inspiration! Thank you for sharing!


----------



## Seanimus

These AQ devices on USB are a PITA. Pumps are not being recognized by Aquasuite.

Meanwhile....I did get the BIOS flashed. You can just do it in Command Prompt on normal Windows 7 boot with elevated privileges. No need to do the USB bootable flash drive thing.
No more various beeping at the post level. Just one beep now.

My SSD's are messed up. Keep getting partition not setup correctly, whenever BSOD. Have to RMA them with OCZ and get new ones. I believe them to be SSD related.
And have to run Windows 7 repair utility with CD.

EVGA SuperNova working:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8657120302/

AquaSuite...via USB so far....remaining are 2xPumps, 1x Pump Adaptor, and 1xFlow Meter which was working yesterday.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8657131940/

Device Manager:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8656031117/

AquaBus:
Fill Level Sensor on left Reservoir...is messed up....CPU side of the house. This may require the fix that Shoggy was talking about some of them have a known issue and you have to blow air after dismantling it.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> These AQ devices on USB are a PITA. Pumps are not being recognized by Aquasuite.
> 
> Meanwhile....I did get the BIOS flashed. You can just do it in Command Prompt on normal Windows 7 boot with elevated privileges. No need to do the USB bootable flash drive thing.
> No more various beeping at the post level. Just one beep now.
> 
> My SSD's are messed up. Keep getting partition not setup correctly, whenever BSOD. Have to RMA them with OCZ and get new ones. I believe them to be SSD related.
> And have to run Windows 7 repair utility with CD.
> 
> EVGA SuperNova working:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8657120302/
> 
> 
> 
> AquaSuite...via USB so far....remaining are 2xPumps, 1x Pump Adaptor, and 1xFlow Meter which was working yesterday.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8657131940/
> 
> 
> 
> Device Manager:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8656031117/
> 
> 
> 
> AquaBus:
> Fill Level Sensor on left Reservoir...is messed up....CPU side of the house. This may require the fix that Shoggy was talking about some of them have a known issue and you have to blow air after dismantling it.


reading all these problems with the Aquaero Has got me thinking and almost regretting ordering it. I got the Koolance system so I am sure one of the will work for me!! or I hope so.


----------



## mandrix

That was likely my post quoted in the Aquacomputer forums on the dual Aquaero's and Aquasuite problems.
As I guess you already found out, flashing the firmware on one at a time works out best.

There are still problems when setting up controllers where the devices displayed might be from the opposite Aquaero. Usually hitting Cancel will bring up the proper list of devices for the Aquaero you are trying to set up.
Occasionally when tweaking offsets on for example temp sensors Aquasuite will freeze up and crash.

Aquacomputer has been able to duplicate some of the problems and will issue a fix with the next version of Aquasuite.

I was running 2xPro units but pulled one to ship for repairs of a damaged pwm header, so now I'm running a Pro and an XT as individual devices since I want both pwm headers available for my pumps.

Looking good!


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks Mandrix.

Flashed the bios again, I reinstalled the OS. This time I have no USB errors sitting in the display driver.

Now, only the AQ5's are connected with latest firmware. None of the Aquabus are connected.
I removed all USB internal connections.
Rebooted. Connected a single USB cable from Left Pump to USB header live. Nothing. Rebooted and nothing.

Tonight I will try, no AQ5's and no internal USB Header connections at all anywhere in the system.
And do Only 1 pump while its on, to see if it is seen in the Aquasuite.

Any other thoughts are welcome.


----------



## seross69

Oh I am so scared of trying to set up my AQ 5 Lt's.


----------



## JoshNZ

Hi Seanimus,

Loving your build man, found it recently and only just finished reading all the way through. EPIC STUFF!!

I have a question for you if you have the time. I am thinking about getting the aquacomputer 450 Res you have, Would you be able to measure the height from the bottom to top, including the pump and pumptop please? Also what is the dimension of he widest point?

Many thanks.


----------



## pphx459

Seanimus, hope you are doing well, quick question for you, how in the world do you take the blades off the cougar fans? I'm afraid to apply too much force.


----------



## Seanimus

Apply force...I have pictures somewhere in the log...how they popped out different. Sometimes with the magnets and sometimes just the shaft..

This AQ stuff is driving me insane.
Reinstalled the OS.
Used USBDView to see AQ Devices with Vendor name....forgot to take a print screen.

CPU Side of the house:
The pump USB just will not recognize the driver on Win7 64 bit.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8666536325/

Fill Level on Reservoir Adaptor on left side still doesn't work.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8666536361/

The flow works...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8666536353/

The default page for Flow via USB shows widgets as follows:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8666536339/

How do I get that widget into the main AQ5 page via Aquabus??
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8667638140/

Thinking of just dismantling the whole thing and sending it to Aquacomputer in few days. This pump USB thing is annoying.
Plus the Fill Level thing and Aquabus readings not all working nicely.


----------



## pphx459

Thanks, I'll search the log more thoroughly.

have you talked to shoggy from AC yet? He's super responsive and helpful.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pphx459*
> 
> have you talked to shoggy from AC yet? He's super responsive and helpful.


Sometimes.


----------



## seross69

Seanimus after seeing all the problems you and Mandrix are having with the Aquaro I am regretting buying this. thinking of selling it and just using the koolance system I have!!!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Seanimus after seeing all the problems you and Mandrix are having with the Aquaro I am regretting buying this. thinking of selling it and just using the koolance system I have!!!


What "all the problems"?
The only major problem I had was initial setup of the software for two Aquaero's simultaneously, which while aggravating isn't insurmountable.
The other stuff I ran into is easy to work through and should be fixed soon in the next release of Aquasuite; besides that relates more to having multiple Aquaero's installed. Anyone running just one likely won't have any major problems with a basic configuration.

Seanimus:
As to the reservoir fill levels and Aquacomputer pumps, I don't have any of that in my rig so I can't help with that specifically.

Can you try to work from a minimal configuration working correctly up to include all your components one by one and see if that works out? I would try with only one Aquaero powered up and USB connected at first.

If you can't get all the USB connected stuff working right I would let Aquacomputer know. Maybe they have a fix or can at least start looking at it for the next release of Aquasuite.

I don't think they initially test out their software changes with the kind of maxed out multi-component systems some of us use, but once you can get them to test a configuration they can get working on a fix.


----------



## mandrix

Also make sure the USB cables for the devices not working are themselves working correctly. Might try temporarily swapping some cables around?


----------



## seross69

Sorry Dont know what happened!!


----------



## Seanimus

Mandrix:
Last windows install had 0 AQ devices connected. This tool called USBDeview shows the devices by Vendor.
Shoggy said make sure 0c70 Vendor ID is not there, ensuring no corrupted AQ USB driver is installed.
So no AQ devices were connected.

Then I connected only the Pump AQ Device. I got the screen, installing USB Device and then failure. Aquasuite 2013-2 was running.
Checked other devices and fine (well the fill level I will get to in a second).

This was done only on the CPU LOOP.

I then connected AQ Flow on the GPU Loop, which connected fine. I used the same cable by disconnecting and then connected to the Pump.
The screen shot below is the same as when I did the Pump on the CPU loop.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8666536325/

All the USB drivers for AQ devices are HID...so its not like you need special drivers installed.
It looks like the firmware on the Pump is all messed up or the circuitry there is fried.

Last option I think now would be to disconnect (well drain the whole loop before that...sheesh...)
And then start connecting these devices on a separate computer to rule out.

The Fill Level issue is on the left (CPU side). Shoggy sent me the work around last year, as this is a known issue for the newer adaptors , but it is rarely seen on the adaptor that I have.
Its in my post somewhere...I will have to repost it.


----------



## mandrix

Yeah I wish I could help more, but one thing I do notice about these Aquaero's is they seem to be real sensitive about swapping cables around. With two Aquaero's sometimes it seems to help to remove power and USB from one unit while you configure the other. But one thing I always do is power off the psu switch when moving cables around, since the USB is staying "hot" and I have the +5V SB connected on one of the AQ5's.

Probably totally unrelated to your problem, but something that happened to me: I use single 10 pin connector for my two USB cables connected to my Aquaero's, (I have them sleeved together then break them out individually at the Aquaero's) and I had apparently bumped the cable causing it to partially or intermittently lose connection and it drove me nuts until I reseated all my cables.

I hate that you would have to move components to another machine for testing, but maybe that is what it will take. Like you I have a hard time believing the USB on the board could be the problem but things happen some times.
Sometimes taking everything apart gives you a better look at what is going on.

The other day I had no video at all from either card and it took clearing CMOS to bring it back so weird things do happen.


----------



## seross69

Oh yes weird things do happen.. ihave had to clear CMOS a lot of times and I do not know how this gets corrupted!!


----------



## mandrix

Seanimus, this guy has several write ups on connecting various Aqua Computer devices including AQ5, pumps, reservoirs. Don't know if it will be be helpful but I'll throw it out here anyway:
http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/forumdisplay.php?57-Man-On-The-Street-Reviews


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Seanimus, this guy has several write ups on connecting various Aqua Computer devices including AQ5, pumps, reservoirs. Don't know if it will be be helpful but I'll throw it out here anyway:
> http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/forumdisplay.php?57-Man-On-The-Street-Reviews


Thanks Mandrix. Read that. Something is fried.
Making 2 more attempts.
Downgrading BIOS from 47 to 45 EVGA. Reinstalling OS. And then following instructions there.

Last attempt would be my Win 32 bit computer in my office. with only the pump non-powered first and just usb. Don't think I need the pump powered up.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks Mandrix. Read that. Something is fried.
> Making 2 more attempts.
> Downgrading BIOS from 47 to 45 EVGA. Reinstalling OS. And then following instructions there.
> 
> Last attempt would be my Win 32 bit computer in my office. with only the pump non-powered first and just usb. Don't think I need the pump powered up.


Sorry to hear that.. I hope you are able to get them going fast...


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks Mandrix. Read that. Something is fried.
> Making 2 more attempts.
> Downgrading BIOS from 47 to 45 EVGA. Reinstalling OS. And then following instructions there.
> 
> Last attempt would be my Win 32 bit computer in my office. with only the pump non-powered first and just usb. Don't think I need the pump powered up.


Fait brought me on your buildlog.

Great skills, love the build its time for me to make a copie of a few parts of your buildlog.


----------



## seross69

Seanmus,

Any luck with your AQ5?? Just trying to learn and see what to do and not to do LOL.. from the reading I have been doing it is easy to fry one if all power is not off and you touch them. One guy said he unplugged PSU before he would touch them to keep from this!!


----------



## Seanimus

Drained the system...since going to lower bios didn't work:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8684138973/

Took it apart and connected to 32 bit OS computer with Aquasuite 12
And pump USB worked.
Then power downed connected other pump using same USB cable. That one worked too.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8684138773/

Took the same cables from new computer connected to both pumps and powered it up..and it still recognized.
So nothing wrong with Pump USB.

The fill level sensor is another story.


----------



## seross69

Seanimus,

I thought of something last night I wanted to tell you and then forgot it. But this reminded me too late. But you could have put the software on your lap top and then hooked each item up to it using the USB without having to strip your system out..


----------



## Seanimus

yes..i could have ...but don't have admin rights on the laptop.. company laptop. Plus I had to drain anyways because the Fill Level sensor is not working on the Left one.
and take it apart to see if compressed air would fix it.


----------



## seross69

Ok just trying to help A little late but did not know if you had thought of this


----------



## Seanimus

Back to CaseLabs...It works now in Aquasuite, Same cables and same hub.
Not have to figure out why do I keep getting those annoying sounds like when a USB connection is disconnected and connected.
Not going to spend too much time on it...but if anyone has used AQ devices and the USB connection doesn't stick to OS let me know.
Set pumps at 80%. And Aquabus at 13. Adaptor is 12. and Flow Meter should be 14.

I probably don't need the USB connection to pumps anymore but may connect it to the Pump Adaptor. Still haven't figured out fill level.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8687831506/

If I fix the beeping sound; need to power down and start connecting the Aquabus. According to the guide Mandrix sent over earlier (Thanks for that Link Mandrix)....have to do one pair at a time. Since I have 2 loops.
First will just connect the 2 Pump Adaptors to its respective AQ5 , which is Aquabus 12. And take it from there.


----------



## seross69

Congratulations keep us update on your progress I am learning from this!!


----------



## Seanimus

The beeping sound of USB disconnect-connect went away, when I flipped the switch to alternate bios with 047 version of EVGA-X79 Classified.
Good thing these boards have multiple BIOS to toggle through.


----------



## mandrix

Glad you got that sorted out.
Never ran into that one before.


----------



## seross69

Seanimus I know you are glad you got it sorted. I know things like this drive me crazy and my wife says i get obsessed with them... until i solve problem...


----------



## Seanimus

Adaptor USB - Fill Level works now on both loops:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8690085715/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8690085705/

As you see below (left navigation pane) have all USB devices except one (GPU Flow) connected:
I going to leave all via USB for now.

Made a new cable for Adaptor . Have to make one more for the adaptor (used a nzxt one temporary). Other one had too much sleeving in the way, and it just wouldn't bend properly, plus it was kind of short for the USB Hub.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8691208808/


----------



## Seanimus

Got Aida64 Extreme software ...as it can communicate with Aquasuite 2013-2
Here's a screenshot with Benchmark :
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8690287251/

And then in Aquasuite you can do this. I picked up this trick, while reading the forums by "man on the street reviews" that Mandrik shared earlier.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8690280047/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8691399196/

[Edit: Removed duplicate shot, and added the CPU Aida setting]


----------



## seross69

So informative and such good information thanks for this seanimus!!!


----------



## Bart

Damn, all those Aquasuite shots make me want to spend more money! Glad you got the problems sorted Sean! What's an epic build without a little bit of struggle.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Damn, all those Aquasuite shots make me want to spend more money! Glad you got the problems sorted Sean! What's an epic build without a little bit of struggle.


Bart You DON"T have a Aquasuite?? I what convinced me to get it was that I saw someone used a picture of their build and had the sensors showing where they are in the build...


----------



## lemniscate

glad to see you solved those problems. it looks good.









this thread made me buy an Aquaero 5 LT for fan controller.. I plan to water cool my rig later, but I thought that it would be nice to get the LT first, to get used to the software.


----------



## Seanimus

My board is not recognizing the last 8 GB DIMM.
Pretty sure at one point it was 32 GB in BIOS...now BIOS only shows 24GB. Any ideas for X79 Classified mobo?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> My board is not recognizing the last 8 GB DIMM.
> Pretty sure at one point it was 32 GB in BIOS...now BIOS only shows 24GB. Any ideas for X79 Classified mobo?


The only time I had this happen and it was on a asus board the only way I could get it to find it was to reset the cmos and reset the Ram... Hope this helps...


----------



## mandrix

You know you can change the names of those software (or really any) sensors in Aquasuite, right?
I use AIDA64 myself for monitoring my cpu and gpu's temps, much handier than having a bunch of apps open.

As for the board problems.....I've been tempted to go X79 but there's just too many little niggles with all of them. Did they release a RAID ROM with TRIM for those boards yet?


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> You know you can change the names of those software (or really any) sensors in Aquasuite, right?
> I use AIDA64 myself for monitoring my cpu and gpu's temps, much handier than having a bunch of apps open.
> 
> As for the board problems.....I've been tempted to go X79 but there's just too many little niggles with all of them. Did they release a RAID ROM with TRIM for those boards yet?


Nope, they have been holding off on doing that, likely it will come with x99 and IB-E.


----------



## pphx459

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> My board is not recognizing the last 8 GB DIMM.
> Pretty sure at one point it was 32 GB in BIOS...now BIOS only shows 24GB. Any ideas for X79 Classified mobo?


I had an issue with this before and had to reseat the CPU.


----------



## pphx459

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> My board is not recognizing the last 8 GB DIMM.
> Pretty sure at one point it was 32 GB in BIOS...now BIOS only shows 24GB. Any ideas for X79 Classified mobo?


I had an issue with this before and had to reseat the CPU.


----------



## pphx459

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> You know you can change the names of those software (or really any) sensors in Aquasuite, right?
> I use AIDA64 myself for monitoring my cpu and gpu's temps, much handier than having a bunch of apps open.
> 
> As for the board problems.....I've been tempted to go X79 but there's just too many little niggles with all of them. Did they release a RAID ROM with TRIM for those boards yet?


Well not officially, but you can probably find a modded bios with the latest Intel OROM flashed to it or do it yourself. Check here for a "how to" if you want to try yourself. You will need to install the latest RST after that as well.

Edit: Link for multiple modded Asus bios.


----------



## JottaD

Subbing nice build log


----------



## Seanimus

FYI below my last set of problems with hardware and communication with EVGA support.
To remove the CPU i have to drain the CPU loop. Not that a quick disconnect would have helped the length from SLightbox is like 2 inches. and right angled.
Will try what EVGA is saying first of not tightening the heatsink pins on CPU and then move to other suggestions.

*Your Answer:*Hi ,
You can boot directly off of the flash drive by pressing F7 at POST and selecting the flash drive. You can then flash it. Have the flash drive in the black USB ports on the back of the board.

For the memory issue, if you have not done so already, try each stick alone to confirm hat all of them are being recognized correctly then try one stick in each slot at a time to verify if it is a slot issue. If it is a slot issue it can be caused by the board, the CPU as the memory controller is in it, bent pins in the CPU socket, an overtightened CPU heatsink, or a BIOS setting. If you are running two packs of RAM please check with the memory maker to confirm the settings to run both packs together as the timings and voltage may be different than for running a single pack of RAM. When testing leave the speed at auto.

Try laying down the system and having the CPU heatsink just sitting on the CPU so it is cooling it but not pulling on the CPU. If all of the RAM is not seen still check the CPU socket for any bent or missing pins.

Please contact us back with the results and for review what model number of RAM is in the system.

Regards,
EVGA


----------



## mandrix

It's true that bent cpu socket pins can cause memory problems, but sometimes it's the memory that's bad. Seems I remember cpachris RMA'ing some memory for his X79....

If you do pull the cpu I highly advise to take some pictures. In my experience at least bent pins show up a lot better in hi res pics, plus you have a good reference point. Been there, done that, I'm afraid to say...often they are not too bad to line back up with a needle if you are careful. But I'm past 60 and my eyesight isn't what it once was....


----------



## Seanimus

My eyes aren't great either.
I did take the last DIMM out...and put it in Slot 2. And rebooted with only 3 DIMMS (8GB each).
Still only 24GB. If that DIMM was bad would see only 16GB. So that rules out that DIMM being bad.

Also tried loosening all the screws on the heat sink.

That leaves BIOS, bent CPU pin as last 2 possible reasons.

Formatting the USB Flash drive again .... to flash BIOS.


----------



## chazzychazh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> My eyes aren't great either.
> I did take the last DIMM out...and but it in Slot 2. And rebooted with only 3 DIMMS (8GB each).
> Still only 24GB. If that DIMM was bad would see only 16GB. So that rules out that the DIMM is bad.
> 
> Also tried loosening all the screws on the heat sink.
> 
> That leaves BIOS, bent CPU pin as last 2 possible reasons.
> 
> Formatting the USB Flash drive again ....
> 
> Beginning to dislike this Motherboard.


Mate, maybe R4E might be ur consideration. Just a thought anyway.


----------



## seross69

Good luck with this Seanimus.. I hate it when something is broke like this..


----------



## Seanimus

Reflashing BIOS didn't help.
Possibilities left are bent pin, bad memory slot, or bad CPU.
EVGA did start the RMA process.

Draining only CPU loop now, to see if it is bent pin.


----------



## Seanimus

Looks fine to me..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8703769120/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8703751118/

Maybe I should try reseating and giving it one more try. If I can find where the TIM is now...lol.

[Edit Macro Shots]


----------



## kingchris

looks okay to me.


----------



## mandrix

Socket pins look good from what I see.....usually it's pretty obvious though or at least a slight difference in the way the light reflects off a misaligned pin.
If you can / have positively eliminated the RAM then it gets down to cpu or board it seems to me.
Might be worthwhile going ahead and send the board in to get it checked out unless you know someone willing to loan you a cpu to test......

Some tips on RMA....don't send anything extra along unless it's asked for, including any external packaging with graphics, etc as it may not make it back to you. Ask if they specifically need the cpu, if not then place the cover on the socket and store your cpu in the original packaging for safe keeping.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> looks okay to me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Socket pins look good from what I see.....usually it's pretty obvious though or at least a slight difference in the way the light reflects off a misaligned pin.
> If you can / have positively eliminated the RAM then it gets down to cpu or board it seems to me.
> Might be worthwhile going ahead and send the board in to get it checked out unless you know someone willing to loan you a cpu to test......
> 
> Some tips on RMA....don't send anything extra along unless it's asked for, including any external packaging with graphics, etc as it may not make it back to you. Ask if they specifically need the cpu, if not then place the cover on the socket and store your cpu in the original packaging for safe keeping.


Thanks for confirming KingChris and Mandrix.
EVGA support they don't want CPU.
Used a DVD box , used the original CPU plastic holder and antistatic wrap, bubble wrapped it with the soft peanut stuff...
Shipping it tomorrow back to EVGA.

All I can say is this mobo from EVGA x79 has issues from BIOS-USB, its 047 BIOS version to being really cranky. The RAID 0 on this board is not that impressive either.
Lets see in a week, if the new/refurbished/repaired mobo that I get back will actually work. It could have been the CPU being bad for the 4th DIMM as well.


----------



## seross69

Good luck I am travelling so not in condition to look or offer advise!!


----------



## The Robot

EVGA X79 series are well-known to have major hardware and BIOS flaws by design, especially with USB. I suggest try a different non-EVGA board.


----------



## seross69

Good luck with this and I have been lucky never had problems like this and hope they don't start!!


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Robot*
> 
> EVGA X79 series are well-known to have major hardware and BIOS flaws by design, especially with USB. I suggest try a different non-EVGA board.


Hearing the same thing in the MDPC forum as PMs . Noticed EVGA x79 has dropped price by $150 whereas Asus is still the same price at $400. Guess no other way to compete with ASUS. hah.


----------



## superericla

I'm one of the few people with a problem free EVGA x79 board. It's great, but the risk of issues is too high for me to ever get another.


----------



## seross69

Never had anything but good experiences with Asus or Asrock, and Abit back in the day, but tried EVGA board one time and nothing bad but just not good board if you know what i mean??


----------



## terranus

I actually know what is wrong with your setup. The problem isn't in any of them but the X79 chipset. It is a very picky chipset. Only certain set of RAM works. I have the same problem where it won't recognize one of the stick but the bios and windows could always detect them.

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?25510-Rampage-IV-Extreme-RAM-Guide

You should be able to find your answer here.


----------



## terranus

Initially I used the Corsair Vengence ... but I switched them out to Corsair Dominator 2133MHZ 32GB and everything works perfect. I am using Asus Rampage IV Extreme IV motherboard.


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

Motherboard compatibility is actually due to IC's (and JDEC profiles) used... saying Corsair Vengeance is not enough information because different sticks use different IC's, even with the same speed/timings. Basically, any DDR3 memory with standard voltage of 1.25V-1.65V should work fine. The fact that it does not is because the EVGA X79 boards have tons of BIOS issues (or it could be physical/electrical damage/defect).


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*
> 
> Motherboard compatibility is actually due to IC's (and JDEC profiles) used... saying Corsair Vengeance is not enough information because different sticks use different IC's, even with the same speed/timings. Basically, any DDR3 memory with standard voltage of 1.25V-1.65V should work fine. The fact that it does not is because the EVGA X79 boards have tons of BIOS issues (or it could be physical/electrical damage/defect).


Yep. Got a PM on MDPC forum with a person who has an identical setup as mine including the number of Aqua devices. After 4 RMAs on the EVGA...he got ASUS X79 and got rid of his issues.
Got few options...

Wait for EVGA to send me another board
Buy ASUS Rampage Extreme IV now for $429 + extended warranty and shipping
Use the "new" EVGA board till prices for ASUS mobo fall to around $250 (which is the current price for EVGA).


----------



## pphx459

Get the R4E, worth every penny


----------



## Bart

Seanimus: if you're not going to quad SLI/Xfire, you could drop down to a Rampage IV Gene and save a few bucks. You'll save about $150 or so, and you'd be limited to 16/16/8 for tri-SLI, but it's still a great board. Plus, an mATX board would look cute in a case that large.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Yep. Got a PM on MDPC forum with a person who has an identical setup as mine including the number of Aqua devices. After 4 RMAs on the EVGA...he got ASUS X79 and got rid of his issues.
> Got few options...
> 
> Wait for EVGA to send me another board
> Buy ASUS Rampage Extreme IV now for $429 + extended warranty and shipping
> Use the "new" EVGA board till prices for ASUS mobo fall to around $250 (which is the current price for EVGA).


I vote for the RIVE


----------



## Jeffinslaw

I vote for something OTHER than the RIVE. That's all I see anymore, go for a Gigabyte board or an ASRock board or MSI. I don't have anything against ASUS but that's practically the only X79 board I see people use on this site except for a small handful of users who have something else.

Just a suggestion is all









Jeffinslaw


----------



## Pole04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I vote for something OTHER than the RIVE. That's all I see anymore, go for a Gigabyte board or an ASRock board or MSI. I don't have anything against ASUS but that's practically the only X79 board I see people use on this site except for a small handful of users who have something else.
> 
> Just a suggestion is all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinslaw


I'll throw my hat in the ring here. If you are going for different looks, shy away from RIVE as there are quite a few out there.

If you also want the performance and a SOILD motherboard, go with the RIVE. I have had one for seven months and I am officially in love with it. It is an amazing motherboard, it looks good, and I have never had any problems with it. For overclocking, you can't get much better.

Just my 2 cents though.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pole04*
> 
> I'll throw my hat in the ring here. If you are going for different looks, shy away from RIVE as there are quite a few out there.
> 
> If you also want the performance and a SOILD motherboard, go with the RIVE. I have had one for seven months and I am officially in love with it. It is an amazing motherboard, it looks good, and I have never had any problems with it. For overclocking, you can't get much better.
> 
> Just my 2 cents though.


Right, right, I know it is a solid and well built board, but it just gets tiring seeing it all the time lol. There are TONS of well built boards out there! You don't HAVE to get the RIVE to get a great performer.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Pole04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Right, right, I know it is a solid and well built board, but it just gets tiring seeing it all the time lol. There are TONS of well built boards out there! You don't HAVE to get the RIVE to get a great performer.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Oh I agree completely. Frankly, now that I am doing a WC build I wish my board was colored differently so I could use other colors.


----------



## Seanimus

There is a black version coming out no? Both from Asus and EVGA. EVGA sent me an email saying their all black version is not in production as yet.
Dont know if ASUS is going in production as yet?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> There is a black version coming out no? Both from Asus and EVGA. EVGA sent me an email saying their all black version is not in production as yet.
> Dont know if ASUS is going in production as yet?


Yes I have read about a limited run RIVE all black board but no information on when they will release it!! or if it is just rumour and gossip...


----------



## Seanimus

ASUS Live chat said the unofficial news is that is sometime mid-August. Thats too far away.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> ASUS Live chat said the unofficial news is that is sometime mid-August. Thats too far away.


Just in time for the new 2011 CPU's so they want everyone to buy new board to go along with the new CPU's. I am not doing this unless it is at least 8 cores!!! but smart marketing!!!!


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> ASUS Live chat said the unofficial news is that is sometime mid-August. Thats too far away.


That is interesting, they did a small run and said none would be made production. They must have had enough customer feedback to make them believe a limited production run would be successful.


----------



## Seanimus

The board that I like other than RIVE is AsRock X79 Extreme 11 ...but that's $$
The other option is:
ASUS Rampage IV Formula LGA 2011 Intel X79 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard


----------



## Jeffinslaw

If ASUS made a limited run of the Rampage IV Extreme Black Edition, I would be all over it lol.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> If ASUS made a limited run of the Rampage IV Extreme Black Edition, I would be all over it lol.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


+1

I will never understand why there is still this insistence by manufacturers to produce boards in the eyesore bright colours they do. I don't want my expensive personalised build to look like a childs toy.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> +1
> 
> I will never understand why there is still this insistence by manufacturers to produce boards in the eyesore bright colours they do. I don't want my expensive personalised build to look like a childs toy.


Seriously. And with an all black board, you can pick whatever colors you want. You want green? Green sleeving, green fans, and green coolant. You want blue? Red? Yellow? So easy...

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Seanimus

All black would be so nice. But its not here and even if it is true ...its still 3 months away..
ASUS RIVE only has 2 USB 10 pin headers on mobo and Formula has 3 USB 10 pin headers?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> The board that I like other than RIVE is AsRock X79 Extreme 11 ...but that's $$
> The other option is:
> ASUS Rampage IV Formula LGA 2011 Intel X79 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard


Unless you are going to have a Insane amount of storage no reason for the AsRock Extreme 11, the formula is a good board but I still like the RIVE better.


----------



## Seanimus

Since nothing much to do with Computer ... just optimized the cables into Aqua 5's. One of the cables going to Vandal bay was lose somewhere ...I guess that vertical soldering that I did earlier was not strong enough.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8732712184/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8732710556/

Good time to replace that Vandal switch which was Orange. Have to hunt in the house for the White one.

--
Started to fool around with the Samsung TV and realized my Blu Ray player that I got last year is not 3D...








Damn...now have to get me a 3D Blu Ray player.
Could go with Oppo BDP - 103 and get rid on my Samsung C5500 and Oppo DV-93 Universal DVD player
That Oppo player is really good.

Or get Samsung F7500 and just get rid of Samsung C5500

At some point need to trade in my Anthem Statement D1 (without HDMI inputs) for something newer and cheaper like Marantz 7701.
The new Anthem Statement D2V 3D are like $9K ...so forget that.....the Marantz will suffice nicely for me.

---
Never ending expense.
Forget the RIVE for now...have to see if EVGA when it comes back if it works or not. If it works just going to keep that...have to save money for Blu Ray player


----------



## Seanimus

Got Samsung F7500 and watched Avatar. Truly amazing on Samsung TV 65" .
The glasses sync up with the TV...and forest effects in the movie were very impressive.
Hundred times better than sitting in a theater for sure.
Wonder if BD Wise made the experience any better.
Digital optical Sound output has Uncompressed Bitstream. Haven't tried the analog 7.1 channel outputs as yet.

Must get another 3D movie tonight...Avengers 3D.
Saw Prometheus on HBO (I think) quite a few times these past few weeks, so not high on my list.

On the computer side of things:
- Found the White Vandal Switch 22mm. The LED was busted, and got a new one from FrozenCPU. Should come by Thursday.
- EVGA, shipped out a new board.


----------



## seross69

The only time I watch TV or Movies is on the plane going back and forth to work. I have nice TV, HD Cable and Nice 7.1 Yamaha Receiver and I never watch it unless I am watching football game..


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Got Samsung F7500 and watched Avatar. Truly amazing on Samsung TV 65" .
> The glasses sync up with the TV...and forest effects in the movie were very impressive.
> Hundred times better than sitting in a theater for sure.
> Wonder if BD Wise made the experience any better.
> Digital optical Sound output has Uncompressed Bitstream. Haven't tried the analog 7.1 channel outputs as yet.
> 
> Must get another 3D movie tonight...Avengers 3D.
> Saw Prometheus on HBO (I think) quite a few times these past few weeks, so not high on my list.
> 
> On the computer side of things:
> - Found the White Vandal Switch 22mm. The LED was busted, and got a new one from FrozenCPU. Should come by Thursday.
> - EVGA, shipped out a new board.


Sounds awesome, good luck with the USB headers on the new board!


----------



## The Robot

They advise to reinstall Windows after getting new board from RMA.


----------



## Nomad692000

Or at least a repair install


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomad692000*
> 
> Or at least a repair install


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Robot*
> 
> They advise to reinstall Windows after getting new board from RMA.


Good information.
I do have a full backup stored on a Dynamic Hardisk on the Computer. the 3rd drive.
I could just make the 2 SSDs as RAID 1 (which will wipe) and during the install (after loading the r6 hardisk drivers), install Windows from a full backup ?


----------



## seross69

Always better to do new install with new drivers I leaned this the hard way.. then once you get everything loaded including programs make a image disc to use from then on!!!


----------



## Seanimus

got the white vandal switch nicely packaged from frozenzpu. all previous ones from ppcs were loose (without any box); just in a plastic bag.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8742051979/

Did it help no....The LED for white Latching style is busted ..








Checked with 9V battery.

Checked the vandal for the Reset motherboard and white led works.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8742051535/
so from left to right
Busted White Latching from PPCS
Busted White Latching from FronzenCPU
Working White Latching from PPCS (but wrong size 16mm)
Working White Reset from PPCS (but don't like the back the pins in different locations than the one on STH10)

Sheesh.
Have to call FrozenCPU and have them fedex me one now...since once I install Motherboard I need the AQ5's and its a pain to dismantle all those wires from STH10.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> got the white vandal switch nicely packaged from frozenzpu. all previous ones from ppcs were loose (without any box); just in a plastic bag.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8742051979/
> 
> 
> 
> Did it help no....The LED for white Latching style is busted ..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Checked with 9V battery.
> 
> Checked the vandal for the Reset motherboard and white led works.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8742051535/
> 
> 
> so from left to right
> Busted White Latching from PPCS
> Busted White Latching from FronzenCPU
> Working White Latching from PPCS (but wrong size 16mm)
> Working White Reset from PPCS (but don't like the back the pins in different locations than the one on STH10)
> 
> Sheesh.
> Have to call FrozenCPU and have them fedex me one now...since once I install Motherboard I need the AQ5's and its a pain to dismantle all those wires from STH10.


Good luck FCPU has not been good with me on returns or bad products they have always been like oh well. reason I buy from PPC or Hellfire pc unless that is the only place i can get them..


----------



## kingchris

you have to hate that. had the same on one of mine, but it was too late i had it all fitted. so it stays!


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> got the white vandal switch nicely packaged from frozenzpu. all previous ones from ppcs were loose (without any box); just in a plastic bag.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8742051979/
> 
> Did it help no....The LED for white Latching style is busted ..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Checked with 9V battery.
> 
> Checked the vandal for the Reset motherboard and white led works.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8742051535/
> so from left to right
> Busted White Latching from PPCS
> Busted White Latching from FronzenCPU
> Working White Latching from PPCS (but wrong size 16mm)
> Working White Reset from PPCS (but don't like the back the pins in different locations than the one on STH10)
> 
> Sheesh.
> Have to call FrozenCPU and have them fedex me one now...since once I install Motherboard I need the AQ5's and its a pain to dismantle all those wires from STH10.


pfffff just finished the last page of your buildlog and copied 65 pages for my archive (and dutch friends).


----------



## Seanimus

Hah...after ordering new ones I figured out the problem.
All these White ring 22mm vandal latching, whether from PPCS or FrozenCPU have the + and - reversed...
16mm and 22mm Reset has the correct markings.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8744754407/

Connected the green wire to the + ve and the red wire to the -ve blades.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8745873104/

So now I have 2 spare White Ring Vandals Latching. Have to return them.

The main thing is I will have them ready when I assemble tomorrow ...mobo should be arriving back around noon tomorrow.
EVGA also added the new mobo to "my Products" in my online section. And transferred the 5 year warranty.
Old Serial Number: 12219307799000XX
New Serial Number: 13219307799002XX


----------



## Seanimus

New Motherboard arrived..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8752337604/

And first thing...checked memory...







It shows 32GB.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8751215503/

So considering everything was going fine with BIOS, decided to check out RAID -Mirror. And the silly thing would not work.
Had the same issue earlier, and finally installed without RAID-Mirror few weeks back.
When it did work it was unstable. Ofcourse initial reaction was motherboard wasn't good..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8752336998/

Decided to get Samsung SSDs to try them out from BestBuy. Worst case it would be bad with those, as well, and I could return them to Best Buy.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8751214559/

After that...not a single problem...everything went fine...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8752360284/

Have to get OCZ to send replacement - RMA.
All AQ devices connected.

Few more days, and have to call for some muscle to move this gigantic computer upstairs - vertically..


----------



## socketus

is it too early to say *YAY !!*


----------



## kingchris

man ssd's are worse then hdd's for giving you false issues.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> is it too early to say *YAY !!*


Looks positive with the baseline all working now. Overclocking might reveal other issues, but that is another day.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> man ssd's are worse then hdd's for giving you false issues.


Yes definitely...SSD issues lead you the wrong way into thinking other parts are going haywire.

Have a get a nice high graphics intensive game like Skyrim, to see how the computer holds up..
Think EVGA has this app, that can overlay on the game to give readouts on temperature and gpu performance.

Well that's my todo for today unless something breaks.

My son wants to play Sonic on this computer, as it needs to good processing power for those custom maps. He bought it before the computer was even finished from Steam.


----------



## Seanimus

For now without overclocking decided to stress the CPU and see how it holds up with IntelBurnTest.
Was rushing to set the fan speeds manually to 100% during that... hah.

So now I setup a Curve Controller for CPU and GPU.
GPU shown below on AQ5.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8755976834/

CPU below with curve setup, automatically going to 75%
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8755998720/

Fans drop to 58% after the Intel burn test is done within seconds--very quiet in the house.. can hear the refrigerator 20 feet away.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]3/8755998710/

Replaced Vandals in the front;
Power Switch (reset) 22mm vandal is now white (before blue)
Slightbox Switch (latching) 22mm vandal is also white (before orange)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8755960500/


----------



## alancsalt

So, close to finalised.....


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> So, close to finalised.....


Hi Alan ...long time. Must be winter now for you..?

..

Shifted to Medium IntelBurnTest ...nothing same as standard in terms of temperature and Curve Controller Fan Speeds...Time to move up..to Maximum
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8755001151/

Ran for few mins and the Maximum IntelBurnTest is not stressing it beyond the point of temperatures/fan speed is concerned. So stopped.. Game of Thrones starting soon...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8755001173/

Will set to CPU Multiplier as 40x later/tomorrow and see what happens..


----------



## alancsalt

Winter..yes, 6ºC in our subtropical valley this morning. About as good as our overclocking weather gets.









Even if I haven't been chiming in, I've been watching with interest. Good to see it all coming together.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Winter..yes, 6ºC in our subtropical valley this morning. About as good as our overclocking weather gets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if I haven't been chiming in, I've been watching with interest. Good to see it all coming together.


Nice . Have to open the pool up now here. Been lazy.
Should be hot here shortly.


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Looks positive with the baseline all working now. Overclocking might reveal other issues, but that is another day.
> Yes definitely...SSD issues lead you the wrong way into thinking other parts are going haywire.
> 
> Have a get a nice high graphics intensive game like Skyrim, to see how the computer holds up..
> Think EVGA has this app, that can overlay on the game to give readouts on temperature and gpu performance.
> 
> Well that's my todo for today unless something breaks.
> 
> My son wants to play Sonic on this computer, as it needs to good processing power for those custom maps. He bought it before the computer was even finished from Steam.


Temp are looking good.

as for the above any of them are ok rts is a good one


----------



## Nornam

Fantastic that you got it all up & running Seanimus & it wasn't the Aquaero's e.t.c screwing things up... Fantastic job









N.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Fantastic that you got it all up & running Seanimus & it wasn't the Aquaero's e.t.c screwing things up... Fantastic job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> N.


Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> Temp are looking good.
> as for the above any of them are ok rts is a good one


Thanks and have to setup Steam.
Have not used that before...and my son is no help in browsing his account.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks.
> Thanks and have to setup Steam.
> Have not used that before...and my son is no help in browsing his account.


Steam is ludicrously easy to set up. Download, install, sign into account and select games you want to install locally.

Can't wait to see this thing finished and all together.

Have you looked at any of the newer cards if the 690 proves not enough horsepower for your display(s)?


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> For now without overclocking decided to stress the CPU and see how it holds up with IntelBurnTest.
> Was rushing to set the fan speeds manually to 100% during that... hah.
> 
> So now I setup a Curve Controller for CPU and GPU.
> GPU shown below on AQ5.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8755976834/
> 
> 
> 
> CPU below with curve setup, automatically going to 75%
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8755998720/
> 
> 
> 
> Fans drop to 58% after the Intel burn test is done within seconds--very quiet in the house.. can hear the refrigerator 20 feet away.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8755998710/
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced Vandals in the front;
> Power Switch (reset) 22mm vandal is now white (before blue)
> Slightbox Switch (latching) 22mm vandal is also white (before orange)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8755960500/


Hi Seanimus great build and pictures. copied about 65 pages from your buildlog. Nice job on the acrylic. specialy interestid on the vandal switches between the Aquero's "i will com back to you for that" .


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> Hi Seanimus great build and pictures. copied about 65 pages from your buildlog. Nice job on the acrylic. specialy interestid on the vandal switches between the Aquero's "i will com back to you for that" .


Thanks and the google sketchup drawings are earlier in the post...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Can't wait to see this thing finished and all together.
> Have you looked at any of the newer cards if the 690 proves not enough horsepower for your display(s)?


Almost there.
Expecting 690 to be everything I need for a single Monitor computer. Have to still prove it , but yes hoping that... .

Its currently running on Gen 2 PCI x 16 on the motherboard. Still have to read up on how to set it up in BIOS for Gen3. I put it in the 4th slot from CPU which x16.
Have to see what the BIOS says as the slot names...I know it doesn't line up with what the board says in the small print next to each PCIE.


----------



## PCModderMike

That 690 should do you just fine. I run a single 1440p monitor, and the 690 is a perfect match for it. Been playing a lot of Metro Last Night lately, great game.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> That 690 should do you just fine. I run a single 1440p monitor, and the 690 is a perfect match for it. Been playing a lot of Metro Last Night lately, great game.


Yep no doubts ...
Did the EVGA Stress utility..
Reached 40 C after 5 mins.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8758829687/

Forgot to take picture of the reservoir...the RGB color changed since it hit 40 C for few secs.

Edit: Updated correct picture above.


----------



## The Robot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks and the google sketchup drawings are earlier in the post...
> Almost there.
> Expecting 690 to be everything I need for a single Monitor computer. Have to still prove it , but yes hoping that... .
> 
> Its currently running on Gen 2 PCI x 16 on the motherboard. Still have to read up on how to set it up in BIOS for Gen3. I put it in the 4th slot from CPU which x16.
> Have to see what the BIOS says as the slot names...I know it doesn't line up with what the board says in the small print next to each PCIE.


That's not the BIOS problem, it's just Nvidia cards need a registry hack to enable pcie 3.0
http://www.techpowerup.com/mobile/168027/nvidia-releases-pci-express-gen-3-0-enabling-patch-for-sandy-bridge-e-hedt-platform.html


----------



## seross69

Seeing all the screen shots of the AQ% just makes me want to forget about everything else and get this working so i can see this!!!! i am trying to resist..


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Robot*
> 
> That's not the BIOS problem, it's just Nvidia cards need a registry hack to enable pcie 3.0
> http://www.techpowerup.com/mobile/168027/nvidia-releases-pci-express-gen-3-0-enabling-patch-for-sandy-bridge-e-hedt-platform.html


Thanks for that link. I will need that later.
But first, have to get past BIOS ; meanining the monitor should still have a signal to get to the Windows part.
I think in the BIOS I have to setup all the GEN3 compatability options ..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Seeing all the screen shots of the AQ% just makes me want to forget about everything else and get this working so i can see this!!!! i am trying to resist..


My advise is that you should forget about the AQ5 because you have been so nervous about the whole thing for at least a month, without even having the unit. I can gaurantee you that you will have issues with AQ5, and you need a lot of patience and doing LOTS of reading to get it to work. And you do not need another variable in your build given that you have multiple motherboards?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks for that link. I will need that later.
> But first, have to get past BIOS ; meanining the monitor should still have a signal to get to the Windows part.
> I think in the BIOS I have to setup all the GEN3 compatability options ..
> My advise is that you should forget about the AQ5 because you have been so nervous about the whole thing for at least a month, without even having the unit. I can gaurantee you that you will have issues with AQ5, and you need a lot of patience and doing LOTS of reading to get it to work. And you do not need another variable in your build given that you have multiple motherboards?


yeah you have a point there but still I want to see it and have it so I will use it at some point...


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> So guess who's the AMD dunce that switched to SLI Titans and never knew that PCIE 3.0 didn't work with them??? That's right, this guy! Just enabled PCIE 3.0 and reran Valley and gained a FPS! Now to see if I can take down Fewness for the top Dual Card spot!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/53901-nvidia-geforce-gtx-690-review-25.html
> 
> About the same?
Click to expand...

Just quoting this because tiny gains only are being seen by applying the 3.0 patch. If you are dedicated to having "one with the lot" though, by all means.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Just quoting this because tiny gains only are being seen by applying the 3.0 patch. If you are dedicated to having "one with the lot" though, by all means.


Yea read that improvement is minor.
But want to try to set it to Gen 3. just to find out if it even works with 3930k on this mobo.
Did read in few articales that EVGA X79 with a single EVGA GTX 690 should not be a problem.

The problem right now, is i can't get a straight answer from EVGA support.
1. I think I have to set all the lanes in the BIOS as GEN3 (not just one)
2. Set Comptability of GEN3 to enabled, which displays additional options of workaround and enable all of those.

At work at the moment...will try when I get home.


----------



## Seanimus

well this is weird ...it says PCIE 3.0 when I load the graphics card with rendering on GPU-Z.

Starts off with Gen 1.1
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8770667709/

And when I load graphics card with 3d rendering changes to Gen 3.0 in GPU-Z.
I didn't even set anything in BIOS as PCIE 3.0.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8770667673/

Cut the acrylic board at the back as the cover. Was way too humid and hot in the garage (with door open) to finish.
I should have opened the pool last week....now chances of algae.


----------



## alancsalt

I think that's how it works...like speed-stepping....


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> I think that's how it works...like speed-stepping....


So I am good? no major advantage in fooling around with BIOS at this point of the build?

As the climate changes in New Jersey drastically in the last 3 days so do the RGB effects in the house...(switched on the AC few mins back...currently 80 F in the house...woah that was abrupt).
2 days ago
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8772594871/

Yesterday
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8779157278/

Today:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8772593455/

Have to tweak the colors...now for summer...don't like green.

Edit: 80 F .. lol not 80 C


----------



## seross69

I like green and it is my four year olds favorite color and she SAID YOU HAD TO KEEP IT.. i screamed just like she did...


----------



## Bart

That looks so sweet! Love the RGB being in tune with temps. Sean has skills!!


----------



## lemniscate

I think it's fine.. it also works that way in my PC.

btw that looks great! congrats for finishing the build..


----------



## kingchris

its looking good,

i did read somewhere, that pci 3.0 will only use bandwidth required.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> its looking good,
> 
> i did read somewhere, that pci 3.0 will only use bandwidth required.


PCIe 2.0 was the same. It would change in GPU-Z depending on load/activity. Sometimes read 1.1 etc.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I like green and it is my four year olds favorite color and she SAID YOU HAD TO KEEP IT.. i screamed just like she did...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> I think it's fine.. it also works that way in my PC.
> btw that looks great! congrats for finishing the build..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> That looks so sweet! Love the RGB being in tune with temps. Sean has skills!!


Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> its looking good,
> i did read somewhere, that pci 3.0 will only use bandwidth required.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> PCIe 2.0 was the same. It would change in GPU-Z depending on load/activity. Sometimes read 1.1 etc.


I guess I am still puzzled by why I didn't have to change the BIOS settings to GEN3. I guess EVGA 690 works differently with EVGA BIOS.

Anyways finished cutting/filing the High Glossy White Acrylic. Used the Brown one as the template (if you remember earlier in the log):
Can't get any more organized than this..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8783853061/

Top view. Between pink dots is the large sheet in picture above. Between purple dots is the smaller board holding the USB and RGB Amps.
Equally spaced with different lengths of 6/32 Round Standoffs.
Smaller board has standoffs behind and front. Had to buy multiple lengths to get all the spacing right.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8794428766/

Slanted view to show all the cables....Neat...took me weeks to get this look and was well worth the work.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8783851309/


----------



## Avonosac

Looks amazing. The reason you don't have a bios setting for gen3 is nvifia doesn't officially support it on x79 as it isn't entirely compliant. The registry hack is the only way to get it working with the 600 series cards.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Looks amazing. The reason you don't have a bios setting for gen3 is nvifia doesn't officially support it on x79 as it isn't entirely compliant. The registry hack is the only way to get it working with the 600 series cards.


I didn't run the Registry Hack.
And below is the BIOS setting....all lanes are set at GEN2. There is an option for each lane to set to GEN3.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8795091268/

Yet when I boot into Windows 7, and put load on GPU, GPUID-Z indicates PCIE 16 x 3.0 (earlier post).

Probably reading intention of BIOS settings incorrectly..


----------



## seross69

soon I will be where you are at!! at least I hope.


----------



## Seanimus

I still have one more mod left to do...and that is the top cover....thinking of some simple artwork on the transparent acrylic that will get lit up with RGB Strip.

On the RGB Strip have 2 choices....a) connect to NZXT and have it fading (wife says it will look like a pimp car) or 2) make the RGB Strip work with the AQ 5 RGB Amp (last time I blew out the AQ5 LT; so yikes)..


----------



## Bart

As the song says, pimpin' ain't easy.







Question Seanimus: are you leveraging the water effect of those Aqualis reservoirs? If so, how does it look?


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> As the song says, pimpin' ain't easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Question Seanimus: are you leveraging the water effect of those Aqualis reservoirs? If so, how does it look?


You mean the fountain effect?
These reservoirs were bought in June last year. Fountain effects came out much later.
Been discussing with Shoggy, on parts to upgrade the reservoir to have 6 leds each and fountain effect.
The price for parts is not bad. But I have to disassemble ... and height increases by approximately 1 cm ..so that messes up the Res holders at the top.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> You mean the fountain effect?
> These reservoirs were bought in June last year. Fountain effects came out much later.
> Been discussing with Shoggy, on parts to upgrade the reservoir to have 6 leds each and fountain effect.
> The price for parts is not bad. But I have to disassemble ... and height increases by approximately 1 cm ..so that messes up the Res holders at the top.


I see. I was going to offer you my spare res bottom, but since you can't mount a pump to it, that wouldn't suit your needs at all. Shoggy is sending me a square base plate for mine so I can use my D5 pump top, so assuming that works out, I won't need my current base. But it's stand-alone, with no pump mount possibilities.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> I see. I was going to offer you my spare res bottom, but since you can't mount a pump to it, that wouldn't suit your needs at all. Shoggy is sending me a square base plate for mine so I can use my D5 pump top, so assuming that works out, I won't need my current base. But it's stand-alone, with no pump mount possibilities.


Well if I had the replacement parts finalized and ordered, I could give you mine.


----------



## Bart

We're so generous for complete strangers.







I ordered it already, and paid up front, but thanks! Sure wish they sold a floor mount kit for these things though. I hate the idea of a wall mount, since I'll have to drill holes in my M8.







I'd much rather drill holes in the 120mm cover plates on the floor.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> We're so generous for complete strangers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered it already, and paid up front, but thanks! Sure wish they sold a floor mount kit for these things though. I hate the idea of a wall mount, since I'll have to drill holes in my M8.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd much rather drill holes in the 120mm cover plates on the floor.


Bart EK makes a Rad mount for the floor you might have to drill it out to fit the Aquacomputer reservoir you got. this might be a idea.

like this http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=27636

or

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_770&products_id=37566

I also bought some different ones I will have to look around and see if i can find them and send you pictures of them!!


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Bart EK makes a Rad mount for the floor you might have to drill it out to fit the Aquacomputer reservoir you got. this might be a idea.
> like this http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=27636
> or
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_770&products_id=37566
> I also bought some different ones I will have to look around and see if i can find them and send you pictures of them!!


Use decouplers from AQ...there are no vibrations in my build from pump.
Putting decouplers on a right angled mount is not efficient in terms of vibrations, infact it may amplify.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Use decouplers from AQ...there are no vibrations in my build from pump.
> Putting decouplers on a right angled mount is not efficient in terms of vibrations, infact it may amplify.


I am deaf but in the testing I can not hear any of the pumps that I am using.. If I did not see the water moving or have a flow meter in the loop I would not know they are running but as you have seen from my pictures this is on a test bench might change when I put them in a case.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I am deaf but in the testing I can not hear any of the pumps that I am using.. If I did not see the water moving or have a flow meter in the loop I would not know they are running but as you have seen from my pictures this is on a test bench might change when I put them in a case.


You need the vertical side to have atleast 7 " of clearance for : AQ D5 Pump Adaptor with its own bracket + the Pump underneath it + atleast 1" to put your fingers through to put in the USB/Aquabus.

[Edit] I looked into this with Jim Keating...the one option you have is Vertical Fan Mount Bracket. Which will go from bottom partition to top partition as nice angled aluminum (less vibration).
Then side ways you have to cut an aluminum piece from the vertical bar to mobo wall and bend it and screw it in.
Only reason I didn't do that, is because there wasn't enough room for two AQ Reservoir assemblies.


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> I still have one more mod left to do...and that is the top cover....thinking of some simple artwork on the transparent acrylic that will get lit up with RGB Strip.
> 
> On the RGB Strip have 2 choices....a) connect to NZXT and have it fading (wife says it will look like a pimp car) or 2) make the RGB Strip work with the AQ 5 RGB Amp (last time I blew out the AQ5 LT; so yikes)..


go for a remote option, its more fun.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> go for a remote option, its more fun.


Yes that is a good idea. Get rid of NZXT / not connect to AQ5 RGB Amp and change lights from far.


----------



## Seanimus

I knew the controller was cheap...but this is ridiculous $1.60.
Anything of better quality?


----------



## Seanimus

Just got the 44key one from a US Seller. The really cheap ones I guess ship from China.

Any photoshop experts in design.....Novice when it comes to Photoshop ....Need a design for the top acrylic with lines (curved are fine as well), with logo of "Seanimus 448??
Key thing is the lines need to go across from one edge to the other. Doesn't have to criss-cross


----------



## kingchris

i got mine from fleabay, i also bought 4 wire male and female connectors and 4 core wire (wire has the right colours) as for photoshop, sorry still a pen and paper guy!! but want to improve my skills.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> i got mine from fleabay, i also bought 4 wire male and female connectors and 4 core wire (wire has the right colours) as for photoshop, sorry still a pen and paper guy!! but want to improve my skills.


Ok noob way in Paint Brush....

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8821008488/

Will try something basic and see how light will refract..

Sides have spacing because the aluminum will cover it.


----------



## seross69

Nice idea!!! Where did the name come from or should I know that as I have been following this from the beginning??


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Nice idea!!! Where did the name come from or should I know that as I have been following this from the beginning??


Name of son + Maximus from Gladiator + 448 StarCraft room back in 2000


----------



## beanscene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Ok noob way in Paint Brush....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8821008488/
> 
> 
> 
> Will try something basic and see how light will refract..
> 
> Sides have spacing because the aluminum will cover it.


That should look awesome i think, who needs photoshop when you have paint








Build is looking amazing dude


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beanscene*
> 
> That should look awesome i think, who needs photoshop when you have paint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build is looking amazing dude


Thanks dude.

Major event of moving computer from family room to my office.
A full family event of joy as I depart with my belongings from my occupation of the first floor. (well 1/10th of the stuff).








Wife was about to







me if I stayed there any longer over the summer ..

In my office upstairs with
Right: On CaseLabs, is Asus 27, Merc Stealth Keyboard and Razer Naga mouse on SteelSeries Glass mousepad.
Left: On Antec 1200, is Samsung 24, Logitech G Series mouse and keyboard.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8836104108/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8835472791/


----------



## seross69

nice office I am more jelly about this than anything. I had this before I got rid of first wife!!!!! still rather have my wife now than office!!!


----------



## Seanimus

who is that in the picture of your avatar...not your wife?


----------



## seross69

OH yes this is my beautiful wife. I know how lucky I am!!!!


----------



## Seanimus

Installing Curse client for WoW ( I know its addictive and took me many years to get away from it...but alas I am back)
Cannot get reset password on curse to even come to my email inbox...

Funniest part about Curse is that I had to execute following steps to get to their site...
Step 1: Right click on your time on the Windows Taskbar and select "Adjust date/time".
Step 2: Click on "Internet Time"
Step 3: Click on "change settings" and make sure it's set to "time.windows.com" and then press "Update Now".
Step 4: Manually adjust the date of your calendar to today's date and adjust the time to todays time and make sure the time zone is correctly set to your regions time zone.


----------



## kingchris

i think i see room for 1 more phone.. lol

nice set up, love the desk.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> i think i see room for 1 more phone.. lol
> nice set up, love the desk.


Need the polycom for speaker/conference calls ....can't hold the cordless for 1 hour calls.
and need the cordless when I go to smoke and put phone on mute...lol


----------



## mandrix

I was wondering something about the slightbox....does the metal frame keep the individual led's from standing out? Reason I ask is I've thought about going all acrylic by standing some acrylic on edge for a border and gluing it with acrylic adhesive......?
I'm not going to be using an etched piece, although I've been experimenting with a diffuser panel.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I was wondering something about the slightbox....does the metal frame keep the individual led's from standing out? Reason I ask is I've thought about going all acrylic by standing some acrylic on edge for a border and gluing it with acrylic adhesive......?
> I'm not going to be using an etched piece, although I've been experimenting with a diffuser panel.


You need an edge frame, to keep the different layers of acrylic together and to keep the LEDs in place.
Also the LED will be a bit brighter few mm around the acrylic and metal frame hides that.

As for the etching, depends on the effect you want. For light to be thrown evenly and bright you need to etch on transparent acrylic.
For the top acrylic I am doing a RGB strip around a single transparent acrylic and I will use the glue gun to keep it in place. More to come on that...

[Edit] Hypothetically you longer need to etch due to a new product called EndLighten.
I have an EndLighten sheet, but didn't get a chance to use it. And for the top acrylic that I need I don't want the entire sheet lit up, just the artwork in previous page.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> You need an edge frame, to keep the different layers of acrylic together and to keep the LEDs in place.
> Also the LED will be a bit brighter few mm around the acrylic and metal frame hides that.
> 
> As for the etching, depends on the effect you want. For light to be thrown evenly and bright you need to etch on transparent acrylic.
> For the top acrylic I am doing a RGB strip around a single transparent acrylic and I will use the glue gun to keep it in place. More to come on that...
> 
> [Edit] Hypothetically you longer need to etch due to a new product called EndLighten.
> I have an EndLighten sheet, but didn't get a chance to use it. And for the top acrylic that I need I don't want the entire sheet lit up, just the artwork in previous page.


I see.
Thanks!
Working on frame now.


----------



## Seanimus

Transferring data from computer to computer using Linksys Gigabit network switch is not that fast....faster way to transfer a TB?


----------



## Bart

E-sata HDD enclosure, if you have one. But 1TB will still take a while.


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Transferring data from computer to computer using Linksys Gigabit network switch is not that fast....faster way to transfer a TB?


Move HDD into new PC and use sata II or Sata III connections. Will show up as another drive the. Drag and drop. Removes all the TCO/IP overhead and sata is 3 or 6 gb/ sec. Only thing faster would be block level copy.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> E-sata HDD enclosure, if you have one. But 1TB will still take a while.


Thanks Bart
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RatDog*
> 
> Move HDD into new PC and use sata II or Sata III connections. Will show up as another drive the. Drag and drop. Removes all the TCO/IP overhead and sata is 3 or 6 gb/ sec. Only thing faster would be block level copy.


Thanks RatDog.
Thought of that as soon as Bart said external HDD enclosure. Too lazy to take it apart and install drive on other computer... Just going to let it run..

I don't know what to do now.. other than clean the pool and wife's on my case to clean the mess on the first floor. Like a war zone, compared to my office...

Need suggestions on next build !! YaY for my son ... less than *1K* for computer.
Looks like I have spare SSDs when OCZ return, so that's covered.
Already have a monitor. And a Blu Ray player whose front plate I fried.. Even have a memory card reader, and USB hub.
This 32 GB RAM in my computer looks like a waste... RAM Disk maybe..

So PSU, Mobo, CPU, maybe GPU ... He needs to play Sonic PC version on that computer which is main horsepower. Rest is all surfing, YouTube and making videos (wants Sony Vega...hmm).
Rest of the time he on PS3.

*Suggestions?*

Pictures with all panels on:
Front View
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8859970895/
Right Side View:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8860567098/

Top and Front View...With cutout. Redid all the PEMS. and straightened out the cuts. Hammered the PEM holes till it was straight. Last time there was a small depression where the PEM was and...and..
Anyways as long as it is leveled , I don't really care now..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8860565506/

Left View (you have to tilt your head *left* to see that right... sorry).
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8859955605/

Rear View:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8860562106/

Rear and Top View:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8860559994/

[EDIT]: Oops...Corrected name.


----------



## RatDog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks Bart
> Thanks *RatDong*.
> Thought of that as soon as Bart said external HDD enclosure. Too lazy to take it apart and install drive on other computer... Just going to let it run..
> 
> I don't know what to do now.. other than clean the pool and wife's on my case to clean the mess on the first floor. Like a war zone, compared to my office...


hehe he said Dong...


----------



## Seanimus

Oops....corrected


----------



## Bart

LOLOLOLOL!!! That's HILARIOUS!! Ahahahahahaha! I'm in tears!! Thanks for that!!


----------



## seross69

me also in tears been a bad day today needed this!!!


----------



## kingchris

case looks









needs white bluray cover.. or black controller covers. just a thought..

i would go for a amd build for your lad.can get high end for a low end intel.


----------



## shaakz

I couldnt help but notice that you run a HDMI cable into a DVI adaptor in your rig, if im not mistaken you have 120Hz monitor?
Correct me if im wrong but doesnt the HDMI output in your screen to a DVI adaptor prohibit the use of 120Hz, since it requires a Dual-link DVI cable to output 120hz?


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> case looks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> needs white bluray cover.. or black controller covers. just a thought..
> i would go for a amd build for your lad.can get high end for a low end intel.


Thanks KingChris...
I should stop typing out people's names lol.
Let me read on what would be considered a decent build on AMD Platform.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaakz*
> 
> I couldnt help but notice that you run a HDMI cable into a DVI adaptor in your rig, if im not mistaken you have 120Hz monitor?
> Correct me if im wrong but doesnt the HDMI output in your screen to a DVI adaptor prohibit the use of 120Hz, since it requires a Dual-link DVI cable to output 120hz?


Thanks for this information Shaakz. Looks like you are right.
Found this post on nVidia forums, which actually took me back to overclock.net and sent a PM to Smykster.


----------



## Seanimus

Came home and tried DVI Dual Link cable (comes with 690/Monitor don't remember which one sent it) and it works.. now at 120HZ








With HDMI cable, even though the adaptor was DVI Dual Link , the highest was 60HZ.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8871644635/

This picture from wiki shows the different types of cables..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8871754577/

So I knew the longer & older, sleeved gold plated DVI cable below would not work..








http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8871770357/


----------



## socketus

Say, since you have a 3d lightboost capable monitor, have you thought about enabling lightboost ? Here's the OCN link


----------



## mandrix

Everything turned out great.








Several things throughout your build at the least gave me ideas/inspiration on changes that I made or will be making in my build. For example I had all but forgotten the mini Tamiya connectors until you mentioned them, and have since utilized them in my build. Probably your sLight panel was the final push I needed to quit waffling get started on my own.

Just for FYI I decided to get one of the Acrylite edge lit sheets, 0.315" thick and edge polished. I don't remember you saying if you actually ever tried it at all, but hopefully it will work out for me alright. Probably should have ordered a thinner version but if it works, it works, and that's all I care about.

Once again kudos on a nice finish to a great project.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Say, since you have a 3d lightboost capable monitor, have you thought about enabling lightboost ? Here's the OCN link


Thanks for the link socketus. Great forum for information.
One thing different now is that I get 3D with higher resolutions than 720p ..since changing the cable to make it 120Hz.
The 3D in WOW is excellent looking but I doubt I can use it in raids. The cursor is in the front and in a 3D image ...clicking a character takes a second. That delay will not do in raids.
For 2D and light boost, will try that tonight.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Everything turned out great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several things throughout your build at the least gave me ideas/inspiration on changes that I made or will be making in my build. For example I had all but forgotten the mini Tamiya connectors until you mentioned them, and have since utilized them in my build. Probably your sLight panel was the final push I needed to quit waffling get started on my own.
> 
> Just for FYI I decided to get one of the Acrylite edge lit sheets, 0.315" thick and edge polished. I don't remember you saying if you actually ever tried it at all, but hopefully it will work out for me alright. Probably should have ordered a thinner version but if it works, it works, and that's all I care about.
> 
> Once again kudos on a nice finish to a great project.


Thanks Mandrix. Many have contributed to this build and I tried thanking folks for their contributions at work related project and it was a mess. Everytime I sent an email I forgot someone..
I have an Endlighten panel but have not tried it. Too lazy to redo any of the current Slightboxes.

One warning on the SLigthbox below a reservoir. If water drips on it , clean it fast...because if it gets to edge, it will get sucked in (between multiple layers of acrylic) and then its impossible to get it out (unless you dismantle).
My Reservoir for GPU had a small leak last night....when I was building a AQ dashboard I noticed the percentage dropped to like 70%.... and panic after that.

Here's the first draft of my dashboard...needs more work to make it smaller...maybe lesser moving gifs in the next draft version.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8880378700/


----------



## shaakz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks for this information Shaakz. Looks like you are right.
> Found this post on nVidia forums, which actually took me back to overclock.net and sent a PM to Smykster.


Glad i could help


----------



## Seanimus

Etched with logo. It lights up a tiny bit even without the LEDS, and with the just the light from bottom Slightbox.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8896433960/

Got the RGB Remote ..but don't have a male RGB pins to connect. They gave me the remote controlled unit with female pin outs. Should have been male...as the RGB Strip has female . Bah.
Ordered male to male pins, and the store upgraded the shipping to overnight from California to NJ.

Have few scratches on the Acrylic. Should have handled it more carefully last few weeks when it was lying around. Never thought the etching would come out this good. O well too late now, not paying for redoing it on a new piece.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8896432978/


----------



## cpachris

Where did you get the etching done? Looks great!


----------



## Seanimus

Trophy shop. Only place that takes Acrylic greater than 20" in my area.
http://www.awardmakers.com/


----------



## seross69

I agree look good


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Etched with logo. It lights up a tiny bit even without the LEDS, and with the just the light from bottom Slightbox.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8896433960/
> 
> 
> 
> Got the RGB Remote ..but don't have a male RGB pins to connect. They gave me the remote controlled unit with female pin outs. Should have been male...as the RGB Strip has female . Bah.
> Ordered male to male pins, and the store upgraded the shipping to overnight from California to NJ.
> 
> Have few scratches on the Acrylic. Should have handled it more carefully last few weeks when it was lying around. Never thought the etching would come out this good. O well too late now, not paying for redoing it on a new piece.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8896432978/


Looking great,

Try commandant 4 "car polish"to get the scratches out.


----------



## kingchris

woo..

thats a cool looking side panel.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I agree look good


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> Looking great,
> Try commandant 4 "car polish"to get the scratches out.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> woo..
> thats a cool looking side panel.


Thanks.

Built a new frame for the RGB around the acrylic. The home depot roll 8" x 10 feet.

Tried doing a single U channels and it was a pain. So made it somewhat similar to the old way I did the frame.
Didn't take pictures..so steps were :

Cut 8"x 15" out.
Used Styrofoam as the base under the top panel, and pressed down. The PEMS made holes in it.
Drilled through holes.
Put the aluminum sheet on top and taped it.
Used the guide holes to drill through.
mounted to the top panel.
Cut out the middle part (to see through).
Mounted with acrylic
Drew the border out.
Left 2MM for the RGB to fit through and did the bends . Vertical bend is 10mm.
Frame:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8930479013/

Frame from under
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8930480135/

12V cable to RGB Remote.
Got the Connector from RadioShack. its called Coaxial power connector. If the guy at RaidoShack didn't show me ...would have never figured that out

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8931087002/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8931086090/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8930476269/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8930475369/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8931083100/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8931082158/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8931081244/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8930471867/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8930470827/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8930469933/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8930468957/


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Built a new frame for the RGB around the acrylic. The home depot roll 8" x 10 feet.
> 
> Tried doing a single U channels and it was a pain. So made it somewhat similar to the old way I did the frame.
> Didn't take pictures..so steps were :
> 
> Cut 8"x 15" out.
> Used Styrofoam as the base under the top panel, and pressed down. The PEMS made holes in it.
> Drilled through holes.
> Put the aluminum sheet on top and taped it.
> Used the guide holes to drill through.
> mounted to the top panel.
> Cut out the middle part (to see through).
> Mounted with acrylic
> Drew the border out.
> Left 2MM for the RGB to fit through and did the bends . Vertical bend is 10mm.
> Frame:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8930479013/
> 
> 
> 
> Frame from under
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8930480135/
> 
> 
> 
> 12V cable to RGB Remote.
> Got the Connector from RadioShack. its called Coaxial power connector. If the guy at RaidoShack didn't show me ...would have never figured that out
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8931087002/
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8931086090/
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8930476269/
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8930475369/
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8931083100/
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8931082158/
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8931081244/
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8930471867/
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8930470827/
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8930469933/
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8930468957/


Looks so good Seanimus448!!!!!!


----------



## kingchris

i do love the rgb led, nearly as much as EL wire. nearly.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Looks so good Seanimus448!!!!!!


Thanks Seross, and I see you use spoilers now. You must have had a dedicated OCN administrator following you around for past few months.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> i do love the rgb led, nearly as much as EL wire. nearly.


The RGB really emphasize any scratches. Only way to even buff them out is with RGB on and I need the Novus 1-2-3. The meguliar #10 and #17 did not help much.

I am done with this build. Very stable.
Did massive video conversion and was fun to see it run so fast, and fans throttling up on major loads.

Still arguing with OCZ on replacement drives. Had to get customer service department involved. I will write an email to the CEO if I have to.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks Seross, and I see you use spoilers now. You must have had a dedicated OCN administrator following you around for past few months.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The RGB really emphasize any scratches. Only way to even buff them out is with RGB on and I need the Novus 1-2-3. The meguliar #10 and #17 did not help much.
> 
> I am done with this build. Very stable.
> Did massive video conversion and was fun to see it run so fast, and fans throttling up on major loads.
> 
> Still arguing with OCZ on replacement drives. Had to get customer service department involved. I will write an email to the CEO if I have to.


Congratulations on being finished.... Believe it or not I did not have anyone say anything to me about the spoilers... I wish they would have then I would have know how to use them sooner







.. Must be nice to see it working like you want it to... Now its time to start again??


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Congratulations on being finished.... Believe it or not I did not have anyone say anything to me about the spoilers... I wish they would have then I would have know how to use them sooner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. Must be nice to see it working like you want it to... Now its time to start again??


Thanks Seross.

Tried to load it to the max with 6 simultaneous video encoding and set Xilisoft video encoder to use GPU CUDA and all cores.
Maxed it out and each video encoding produced 2 GB files with total of 12GB files produced at the end of the encoding.

Downloaded files, browsed YouTube videos in background seamlessly

Temps on CPU hit 48C
Temps on GPU like 38C
NJ temp are like 75F outside and in the house AC set at 72F

In terms of utilization , CPU 100%, GPU1 max was like 65%, and GPU2 max was like 15%
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8963703209/

Fans didn't reach 100% as curve controller for 100% is past 55C
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8963703185/

I don't think there is anything more I can throw at this computer.
Don't see any reason to even overclock at this point. The baseline is much more than I imagined it to be.

Maybe next month I will start again for son's computer - AMD build. Maybe this is too much for him. Thoughts?
Need a nice case for this ATX, which should be aesthetic for the kitchen bar/family room. [Not CaseLabs]

ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 AM3+ AMD 990FX SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
AMD FX-8320 Vishera 3.5GHz (4.0GHz Turbo) Socket AM3+ 125W Eight-Core Desktop Processor FD8320FRHKBOX
COOLER MASTER Seidon 120XL RL-S12X-24PK-R1 38mm Radiator High Performance All in One Liquid/Water CPU Cooler
ASUS HD7850-DC2-2GD5-V2 Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card
CORSAIR Dominator Platinum 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMD8GX3M2A1600C9
EVGA SuperNOVA NEX750B BRONZE 120-PB-0750-KR 750W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Power Supply


----------



## seross69

Wished I could help but don't know much about AMD CPU's...


----------



## kingchris

have enjoyed your build it does look the part.
if you are going to drop it in motm, make sure you only show internal pics..









big







on the finish.

as for your lads build, need another son, dad. lol..


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> have enjoyed your build it does look the part.
> if you are going to drop it in motm, make sure you only show internal pics..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> big
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on the finish.
> 
> as for your lads build, need another son, dad. lol..


Regarding MOTM, Does someone nominate me or do i have contact an administrator?

That build should be nice. And cheap -- less than $900.
AMD is cheaper, but also a few hundred dollars saved on ssds, wiring... oo have ot add fans to that build.

Any suggestions on cases? Has to be between 20 to 24" tall and same for the depth. Can't be taller, as it goes in the cabinet under the kitchen bar.

Antec 300 is currently there but need something with reverse layout...as the computer will go in there sideways, with drive bays on left and the wall outlets on the right.


----------



## socketus

If by reverse layout, you mean reverse ATX ? That's gonna be a Silverstone - hmm, 24" deep, well that cuts out the Raven RV02B coz its 25.31" deep.

It could be the Fortress FT02B-W, with its 24.25" depth.
There's a window-less version in black or silver. The Fortress cases are aluminum, and a bit pricey.

Here's a brand new Silverstone - just announced a month ago, doesn't seem to be available yet.

http://www.techpowerup.com/183755/silverstone-raven-rv04-chassis-detailed.html

reveerse-atx and measures out at 22.87" tall by 19.57" deep.

_And yah, FINAL PIX PLEASE_









it'll get you in practice for those internal MOTM shots


----------



## alancsalt

http://www.overclock.net/t/1183902/official-ocn-mod-of-the-month-contest-rules-and-discussion/60#post_20130394

Have to wait for May voting to finish before a nomination thread goes up.


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> If by reverse layout, you mean reverse ATX ? That's gonna be a Silverstone - hmm, 24" deep, well that cuts out the Raven RV02B coz its 25.31" deep.
> 
> It could be the Fortress FT02B-W, with its 24.25" depth.
> There's a window-less version in black or silver. The Fortress cases are aluminum, and a bit pricey.
> 
> Here's a brand new Silverstone - just announced a month ago, doesn't seem to be available yet.
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/183755/silverstone-raven-rv04-chassis-detailed.html
> 
> reveerse-atx and measures out at 22.87" tall by 19.57" deep.
> 
> _And yah, FINAL PIX PLEASE_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it'll get you in practice for those internal MOTM shots


^^^^^^^ THIS ^^^^^^^

and dont worry, someone will be in touch.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Here's a brand new Silverstone - just announced a month ago, doesn't seem to be available yet.
> http://www.techpowerup.com/183755/silverstone-raven-rv04-chassis-detailed.html
> reveerse-atx and measures out at 22.87" tall by 19.57" deep.


The RV04 will arrive to USA on June 28th per Silverstone sales.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1183902/official-ocn-mod-of-the-month-contest-rules-and-discussion/60#post_20130394
> Have to wait for May voting to finish before a nomination thread goes up.


Thanks Alan.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> _And yah, FINAL PIX PLEASE_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it'll get you in practice for those internal MOTM shots


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> ^^^^^^^ THIS ^^^^^^^
> and dont worry, someone will be in touch.


How many pictures are allowed...Looked at May...looks like 2 pictures..


----------



## waslakhani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> The RV04 will arrive to USA on June 28th per Silverstone sales.
> Thanks Alan.
> 
> How many pictures are allowed...Looked at May...looks like 2 pictures..


It is going to be a tough decision for the next MOTM because CPA Chris be in it. But if you enter in it you have my vote for sure!


----------



## The Robot




----------



## seross69

Have you thought about a Itx and a case labs s3??


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waslakhani*
> 
> It is going to be a tough decision for the next MOTM because CPA Chris be in it. But if you enter in it you have my vote for sure!


Cool. Hmm that reminds me saw ForestGirl at work today. Forgot to ask her to post.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Robot*


Thanks for the picture. What do I do with it...is there a link behind that picture that you forgot to add?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Have you thought about a Itx and a case labs s3??


S3 is 10.54"....RV04 is 8.6".... Have to check the cabinet again. and RV04 price is not out as yet. S3 is around 229 with XL Window and USB 3, and don't know the price of the reverse atx layout (no option).
I have to wait till end of the month anyways to see if I have a job next month ; project deployed and contract renewal time...(stress).

OCZ was a terrible disappointment. They returned my drives, even through customer service got involved and said they shipping me back new drives. Never buying OCZ products again!!...
Worst customer service ever.
Seagate RMA after like 2 years or something ...was like 20 mins on the phone and done...they shipped me drives, and told me to put old drives in the box with prepaid shipping back.
No experience with Samsung drives..

As far as final pictures go...here we go.... haven't decided which ones to use for MOTM.
Numbered them, incase you guys want to give suggestions.

1)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038685200/

2)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9036461573/

3)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038686352/

4)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9036461019/

5)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038683580/

6)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9036464783/

7)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038688638/

8)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038689292/

9)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038690538/

10)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9036468803/

11)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9036470293/

12)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038694384/

13)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038694936/

14)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038696314/

15)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9036473829/

16)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9036477521/

17)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038698662/

18)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038697814/

19)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038700400/

20)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9036478013/

21)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038702204/

22)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038703072/

23)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038703776/

24)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9036482761/

25)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9056937439/


----------



## socketus

Wow< I hate to post first after your pix, but .... I gotta be that guy !

First pic nearly knocked me over, b&w beauty







Too bad there's only 2 pix to be submitted/used, I get it that your log will be linked, but following build logs like yours or cpachris or mandrix or IT Diva is a daily thing, noting the changes and getting caught up in the decision making ... not to be missed.

#12 or 13 have to be one of the pix, otherwise, that crown will be missed. I got so lost in the pix, it wasn't till I read your note at the end that I hadn't seen a single rad









*PS>* just took another look and noticed that # 1, 2 &3 also show the top window.


----------



## alancsalt

2 & 12, though I would have got a little more distance in 12. Don't worry about me though, my aesthetic senses are suspect..


----------



## kingchris

3 and 11, so i hope all thses numbers are helping...


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Cool. Hmm that reminds me saw ForestGirl at work today. Forgot to ask her to post.
> Thanks for the picture. What do I do with it...is there a link behind that picture that you forgot to add?
> S3 is 10.54"....RV04 is 8.6".... Have to check the cabinet again. and RV04 price is not out as yet. S3 is around 229 with XL Window and USB 3, and don't know the price of the reverse atx layout (no option).
> I have to wait till end of the month anyways to see if I have a job next month ; project deployed and contract renewal time...(stress).
> 
> OCZ was a terrible disappointment. They returned my drives, even through customer service got involved and said they shipping me back new drives. Never buying OCZ products again!!...
> Worst customer service ever.
> Seagate RMA after like 2 years or something ...was like 20 mins on the phone and done...they shipped me drives, and told me to put old drives in the box with prepaid shipping back.
> No experience with Samsung drives..
> 
> As far as final pictures go...here we go.... haven't decided which ones to use for MOTM.
> Numbered them, incase you guys want to give suggestions.
> 
> 1)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038685200/
> 
> 2)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9036461573/
> 
> 3)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038686352/
> 
> 4)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9036461019/
> 
> 5)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038683580/
> 
> 6)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9036464783/
> 
> 7)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038688638/
> 
> 8)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038689292/
> 
> 9)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038690538/
> 
> 10)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9036468803/
> 
> 11)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9036470293/
> 
> 12)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038694384/
> 
> 13)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038694936/
> 
> 14)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038696314/
> 
> 15)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9036473829/
> 
> 16)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9036477521/
> 
> 17)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038698662/
> 
> 18)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038697814/
> 
> 19)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038700400/
> 
> 20)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9036478013/
> 
> 21)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038702204/
> 
> 22)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038703072/
> 
> 23)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9038703776/
> 
> 24)
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9036482761/
> 
> Missing Radiator shots..






I have been following this from the beginning. Great Work!


----------



## YP5 Toronto

Well done.


----------



## cpachris

So clean! So much goodness!

I don't like the first five pics as much....because you can't tell what color the case is. But there are so many good other ones.

#14 shows some awesome attention to detail.

#12...with a little cropping....would be an awesome pic.

#22 must be included

#24 must be included.

Now please inform FG that we miss her.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> So clean! So much goodness!
> 
> I don't like the first five pics as much....because you can't tell what color the case is. But there are so many good other ones.
> 
> #14 shows some awesome attention to detail.
> 
> #12...with a little cropping....would be an awesome pic.
> 
> #22 must be included
> 
> #24 must be included.
> 
> Now please inform FG that we miss her.


Yea, I've noticed this thread has suffered from a lack of innuendo and vague harassment xD


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Yea, I've noticed this thread has suffered from a lack of innuendo and vague harassment xD


Let's fix that.


----------



## seross69

Looks so good, You did a amazing Job on this...


----------



## CoolRonZ

NICE JOB!!!! if i wasnt the laziest modder I'd have chosen a single wide CaseLabs too, but my wirings always a tangled mess, colorful extensions are good enough for me







looking sweet bro


----------



## Seanimus

Added radiator shot as #25 in earlier post, since that was missing.


----------



## seross69

Looks so good......


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Looks so good......


Thanks.

So I combined the inputs from socketus, alancsalt, kingchris, cpachris and others, into the following two new shots.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9062659932/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9062653934/

Not sure if should show all that...its a huge case, and looks too busy!


----------



## seross69

Seanimus not trying to criticize you but on the first picture your engraving because of the angle of the picture just looks like it has been scratched... At first glance any way and it was not until I look closer I could see what it was and then I remember you doing this. But if you want MOM I dont think I would use this picture because you know how most people do and that is just look at the pictures fast and not close. so they may not see it especially if they have not been following your log??

just my two cents worth. but amazing shots overall


----------



## alancsalt

Your comp just looks so good...


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Your comp just looks so good...


Thanks alan.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Seanimus not trying to criticize you but on the first picture your engraving because of the angle of the picture just looks like it has been scratched... At first glance any way and it was not until I look closer I could see what it was and then I remember you doing this. But if you want MOM I dont think I would use this picture because you know how most people do and that is just look at the pictures fast and not close. so they may not see it especially if they have not been following your log??
> just my two cents worth. but amazing shots overall


Good Point Seross69

Maybe skip the top cutout of STH10..sigh, which is unique.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9061379951/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9060425707/


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Thanks alan.
> Good Point Seross69
> 
> Maybe skip the top cutout of STH10..sigh, which is unique.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9061379951/
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9060425707/






Nice can we get a shot of the rads in the bottom and your plumbing down there as well?


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> 
> Nice can we get a shot of the rads in the bottom and your plumbing down there as well?


You can't get a shot after its installed with a lightbox.. As each part that connects will pull the lightbox into its place; with the last one being the straight connector going from pump to radiator.

Here are some older shots.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8352562932/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8560441325/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8561549670/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8549764851/
This shot shows under the lightbox..well atleast at one point in the past.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8549762607/


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> You can't get a shot after its installed with a lightbox.. As each part that connects will pull the lightbox into its place; with the last one being the straight connector going from pump to radiator.
> 
> Here are some older shots.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8352562932/
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8560441325/
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/852661[email protected]/8561549670/
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8549764851/
> This shot shows under the lightbox..well atleast at one point in the past.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8549762607/






Thanks Plus Rep. I've thought about adding a pedestal to my SM8 soon Wanted to see how much space you had with 360's in the bottom.


----------



## socketus

The problem with getting a legible shot of the top window and keeping the full case in frame, might be do-able with a different lens ?

or maybe, if you have a short ladder, or some thing to stand on to maybe get a closer view while retaining the full case in shot ?

Its either that or you cut off the case somewhere ... maybe the pedestal, since we're going to see it in the 2nd pic . . . just an idea.

Luv that look of the first shot, when the sLight just shoots up at ya with its light, like the Hollywood searchlights. Blinding !

as for busy, that 2nd shot really shows otherwise, you don't have the many loose single or pairs of sleeves running back and forth. Very well contained on your front panel gear. Looks orderly, at least in that pic


----------



## Bart

Easiest way to solve picture problems is this: get ForestGirl to pose with the case, preferably in a swimsuit. That way, even if the case was flawed, no one would notice, and you'd be a guaranteed MOTM winner.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Easiest way to solve picture problems is this: get ForestGirl to pose with the case, preferably in a swimsuit. That way, even if the case was flawed, no one would notice, and you'd be a guaranteed MOTM winner.


Lol.

Hey Chris, this is what I was talking about with the harassment.


----------



## cpachris

He'd [she'd] have my vote.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Easiest way to solve picture problems is this: get ForestGirl to pose with the case, preferably in a swimsuit. That way, even if the case was flawed, no one would notice, and you'd be a guaranteed MOTM winner.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> He'd [she'd] have my vote.


I agree with Bart 1000% that would win it for sure... And you would get all of my votes. Been 19 days since I saw a Female Carbon Life Form.


----------



## Seanimus

[Edit] Retracted comment.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> [Edit] Retracted comment.










Good one and that is the life form I really want to see!!!


----------



## Seanimus

If I was any good at photography, I would have got the sky and the reflection to be almost similar.
This camera needs to be tweaked...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9073007244/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9073008262/
Have to get landscaper to trim that ... consuming the roses. Its out of control.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9073010014/


----------



## seross69

Nice landscaping!!! Do you do it yourself or have someone else do most of it.. I use to enjoy doing this, when I lived in the country... But now in city and just have concrete..


----------



## Seanimus

I can't do landscaping. Rather foreclose the house and move to an apartment, if I sit in the heat /humidity and do that stuff. Maximum outdoor stuff I do is clean the pool, and build addons to the deck (wood work).


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> I can't do landscaping. Rather foreclose the house and move to an apartment, if I sit in the heat /humidity and do that stuff. Maximum outdoor stuff I do is clean the pool, and build addons to the deck (wood work).


LOL I use to enjoy it but found better and less sweaty things to do now.. I also love to do woodwork and have built some nice things.


----------



## kingchris

nominated. Good luck with MOTM.


----------



## Seanimus

which link is June MOTM in... no moderator contacted me... lol.


----------



## alancsalt

http://www.overclock.net/t/1402071/june-2013-mod-of-the-month-nominate-now


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks.


----------



## Seanimus

So its entered June MOTM
Any one have information of when Newegg will have Silverstone RV04 . Silverstone sales emailed saying June 28th coming to the US...but don't know when resellers will have them listed.

And release date of EVGA Z87 Stinger?


----------



## seross69

got my vote when I can vote!!!


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> So its entered June MOTM
> Any one have information of when Newegg will have Silverstone RV04 . Silverstone sales emailed saying June 28th coming to the US...but don't know when resellers will have them listed.
> 
> And release date of EVGA Z87 Stinger?


did you see this about the RV04 ?

here's the aluminum FT04

and some Computex coverage of both cases


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> did you see this about the RV04 ?
> 
> here's the aluminum FT04
> 
> and some Computex coverage of both cases


Socketus I have a memory that blows me away, I think you are OCN own database of knowledge and where to find things. You are always helping and have good links to learn from. thanks for this...


----------



## Seanimus

No I did not see that particular review.....thanks for sharing. Back to the drawing board.
Looking into CaseLabs SM5 ... with reverse layout....its pricey


----------



## Barefooter

Late comer here, just finished reading the entire thread. Freaking awesome build! Love all the acrylic work, sawing and cutting! REP+ for your efforts.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> No I did not see that particular review.....thanks for sharing. Back to the drawing board.
> Looking into CaseLabs SM5 ... with reverse layout....its pricey


yah, I don't like where Silverstone has gone with these new boxes. ATX tj08. This is for your son's build needs, right ? you know the CL will last forever.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Late comer here, just finished reading the entire thread. Freaking awesome build! Love all the acrylic work, sawing and cutting! REP+ for your efforts.


Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> yah, I don't like where Silverstone has gone with these new boxes. ATX tj08. This is for your son's build needs, right ? you know the CL will last forever.


Yes its for son's build. No matter which case I look at , I keep coming back to Case Labs.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> So its entered June MOTM
> Any one have information of when Newegg will have Silverstone RV04 . Silverstone sales emailed saying June 28th coming to the US...but don't know when resellers will have them listed.
> 
> And release date of EVGA Z87 Stinger?


Why did you do this to me? That is possibly the most intelligently laid out mITX board I have ever seen. Beats the hell out of my z77e-itx and z77ia-e53a. That is now the second z87 board that is far superior to any z77 as far as clearance for coolers and graphics cards.

I just hope they iron out the BIOS issues they had for the z77 stinger.


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Why did you do this to me? That is possibly the most intelligently laid out mITX board I have ever seen. Beats the hell out of my z77e-itx and z77ia-e53a. That is now the second z87 board that is far superior to any z77 as far as clearance for coolers and graphics cards.
> 
> I just hope they iron out the BIOS issues they had for the z77 stinger.


It does look nice. There will always be something better when you buy.
EVGA Support:
Good afternoon

I do apologize but no information on the price, release date we are expecting early July. Probably our website, EVGA.com, would be the fastest to buy.

Regards,
EVGA


----------



## HowHardCanItBe

This looks amazing


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5entinel*
> 
> This looks amazing


Thanks.

Now EVGA X79 Dark is announced at EVGA Site with price -- No Date as yet.
Can't win!! lol


----------



## Seanimus

WoW. EVGA Service is the best. They replied to my email, on a Sunday. $150 for upgrade from my current X78 Classy to X79 Dark, when it is released.
Few features I noticed are:

10 Sata Ports versus 6 currently
CPU Temperature Display is near the Power Reset button, Which in my case is awesome, since I have a Reverse ATX Layout and will be able to see it better.
NEW BIOS
New one seems have Capacitors which are pretty obvious.
Nice Cover Plate for output ports.


----------



## seross69

Yes I got the email and now are jealous.. wished I did not already have the RIVE!!


----------



## kingchris

More upgrades


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> More upgrades


Too many upgrades now Chris!! at least for me... and all I am doing is spending my time traveling and not getting to work on the computer!!!







Wife has pissed me off thinking about telling her to go to mexico by herself and I stay home!!!


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Too many upgrades now Chris!! at least for me... and all I am doing is spending my time traveling and not getting to work on the computer!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wife has pissed me off thinking about telling her to go to mexico by herself and I stay home!!!


Bad idee. Enjoy your holliday relax and take som more time for planning. Rome has not been build in one day so your build can wait a few days more.

Thoughts are going out to the fireman who lost there lives today at the bushfire.


----------



## socketus

I second this ^^

I have a buddy who's Cal Fire, and while he's not in AZ ... well, you know.

@ seross69 - Rome - not built in a day, and not taken down in a day. Enjoy ! don't get mad, don't be mad, life is too short. Enjoy !


----------



## Seanimus

hi ...been a while..
fooling around with EVGA products and found the EVGA LED Controller for the 690. Only available for Titan and 690 I think.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9225030611/

Also got the new Samsung CableVision box...and finally my Dolby digital output on optical is now resolved. Apparently the Scientific Atlanta boxes when you have HDMI going straight to TV, the Optical output would not send Dolby Digital 5.1 to Audio Processor, since January (after their last software upgrade).
It's funny when you fix things easily when you aren't even looking to fix it on that particular day.

All I was doing, was trying to find a cheap Samsung Android based device with Bluetooth option, so I could control my 690 graphics card with EVGA Precision for Android app. And one thing led to another and ended calling cablevision and getting their new box.

Its like searching for YouTube video, and you always end up looking at some random YouTube video and wonder how you got there.


----------



## socketus

Never heard of it, what's it do ? besides control the LEDs ... what leds ? All I can find are shots of the software. The card looks like what with the LED on ?

Says that when the OC Scanner is closed, the LED shuts off. NM, the green logo thing on the card lights up. Intensity can be changed, multiple cards can be controlled. Seems its not fully developed in terms of useage, users would like it integrated into Precision. Still, sounds cool


----------



## Seanimus

the led on the evga 690 will glow based on setting . so if I set it to LED Breathing...it will count up and down.
If temperature; then the LED on the 690 will be kind of dim for me at 29C or at ~30%
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9226255009/


----------



## Seanimus

Question on Acrylic or Copper tubing. If both my ends are fixed points - GPU and Flow Meter and is straight line, how do you place the acrylic tube between these 2 fixed G1/4.
Do I need to have the Acrylic tube in a semi molten state while mounting it..? Seems like a difficult thing to do!.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Generally it's best to have a rotary fitting on the block in addition to the acrylic tube fitting. Then you measure and cut the tube while the fittings are screwed in, remove the fittings and push the tubing into them. Then, using the rotaries, screw in the entire config.

Usually there will be just enough play in the fixed points (just a couple mm) to get the fitting thread into place so that you can start screwing it in.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Question on Acrylic or Copper tubing. If both my ends are fixed points - GPU and Flow Meter and is straight line, how do you place the acrylic tube between these 2 fixed G1/4.
> Do I need to have the Acrylic tube in a semi molten state while mounting it..? Seems like a difficult thing to do!.


I tend to fit the fitting to the tube then screw it in,the depth of the thread will be shorter than the amount required to get the tube in the fitting.
Or unmount one component,fit then remount,this is the easiest method
EDIT: Rotaries not required,they are helpful but not necessary.


----------



## alancsalt

http://www.overclock.net/t/1410524/july-2013-mod-of-the-month-open-for-business


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks Alan.

I have to use some biocide ..
I have Distilled water only and I believe everything in my loop is copper - CPU block. EVGA hydro copper and AQ420 Copper Radiators.
Will this work Petra'sTech PT Nuke PHN Concentrated Biocide (10mL).
I think Electrocutor mentioned to me the same product a while back, but to lazy to read my own forum and search for what was recommended.

My GPU loop has a slight color to it...CPU Loop looks still clear.


----------



## kingchris

well lets see if we can get you a win this month.


----------



## Avonosac

If the list goes off with these builds, this should be a no-brainer win.


----------



## alancsalt

Fingers crossed that four entrants confirm and it goes ahead...


----------



## seross69

Looks good!!!!


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> All entrants have been PMd, please let me know if you havent. Also updated OP, if you want pics changed, include that in the response to the PM. Thanks guys!


----------



## deafboy

Your build somehow got lost in my sub list... it's been nice catching up and reading everything again, glad to see it all! Great work


----------



## alancsalt

Voting is open.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1410524/july-2013-mod-of-the-month-help-choose-the-winner-today/


----------



## waslakhani

Vote for him!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Seanimus

Thanks guys. Good list of builds. Definitely need to version 2 of this build in a few months. Have it all planned out.

However, priority would be my son's build; he sees me gaming on this monster build; running 100fps and is jealous.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1410524/july-2013-mod-of-the-month-help-choose-the-winner-today/


----------



## Seanimus

Overclocking the GPU remotely using MSI Afterburner - EVGA Precision did not work for me.
EVGA Precision uses Bluetooth. Could not get it to work on iPad, iPhone or Samsung Galaxy tab.
MSI Afterburner polls your network to look for broadcast. Could not get it work on iPhone or iPad, would crash. Worked on Samsung Galaxy tab.

MSI Afterburner settings while gaming in WoW and adjusting till stable:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9424294160/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9424295282/


----------



## socketus

that's CRAZY ! remote oc-ing, nice temps


----------



## alancsalt

Hope y'all voted!


----------



## Avonosac

Sean got my vote


----------



## seross69

Got my Vote good luck!!!


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Sean got my vote


My vote also


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Overclocking the GPU remotely using MSI Afterburner - EVGA Precision did not work for me.
> EVGA Precision uses Bluetooth. Could not get it to work on iPad, iPhone or Samsung Galaxy tab.
> MSI Afterburner polls your network to look for broadcast. Could not get it work on iPhone or iPad, would crash. Worked on Samsung Galaxy tab.
> 
> MSI Afterburner settings while gaming in WoW and adjusting till stable:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9424294160/
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9424295282/


some bluetooth ( i phone and i pad ) are only for headsets not remote access. thats why it wont work for it.

p.s. my vote went right here.!


----------



## alancsalt

We didn't even need Forest Girl to tell us to..


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> some bluetooth ( i phone and i pad ) are only for headsets not remote access. thats why it wont work for it.
> p.s. my vote went right here.!


I did that write up incorrectly.
EVGA Precision mobile version of the app is only available on Android. They do not have an ipad or iphone version. The android version did not work for me on Samsung device. It did work for few people in the evga forums. EVGA Precision uses blue tooth
MSI Afterburner mobile version of the app is available for Apple and Android. It polls the network. I could not get it work on Apple, in the sense when I went to overclock, the app would crash. It did read all the temperature, clock , mem etc. properly and display. Just no remote overclocking.
The most stable one I found was MSI Afterburner for Android to be working efficiently on the Samsung Galaxy tab.

Yes you are correct iPhone and iPad is only headsets and music, and that's why EVGA doesn't have an Apple version of their remote app. They should have just gone a different route like sending data to computer via network and then having the desktop app (remote server) do the work.

I started on this track because I could not get any of the OSD's to work. Neither MSI After burner or EVGA OSD (both use RivaTuner) work on a 64 bit Windows or 64 bit applications. So I can see the OSD inside a 32 application like DIVX. But cannot see the OSD in games.

So if I am busy gaming and I want to see what my temperatures look like-- there is no way unless I alt-tab back to windows. (and no I am not gaming in windows mode).
Thanks for the vote.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> We didn't even need Forest Girl to tell us to..


Hah...I am gonna miss ForestGirl. My contract ended last Wednesday at that particular telecommunication company. My next contract is at a pharmaceutical company and have 10 days to kill before I start there. But hey I will have a job without a long transition.
Its time I put up a new thread for my son's build - with CaseLabs SM8 / EVGA Z87 Stinger.


----------



## socketus

huhhhh ???? MSI Afterburner and EVGA Precision's built-in monitoring features don't work for you in 64 bit windows ? while gaming ?

if we're talking about either's Monitor tab where you can set up OSD for GPU temps, fan rate, gpu performance, etc, then it all works for me on Windows 7 64 bit in BF3, L4D2 and what else, Just Cause MP beta. No problems at all.

If you're talking about seeing either app while gaming, yah, it'd take an alt-tab to bring them up and check the whole app out. Not sure with your OCing if you're talking about doing an OC while gaming ... not sure I'd wanna do that, though


----------



## Seanimus

OSD by RivaTuner which both MSI and Precision doesn't work in 64 bit. OSD which acts as on overlay to watch your temperatures, should be visible in games as well. It works fine on 32 bit but not 64bit. Its announced on 3dguru forums that there is no support on 64 bit and will not be available any time soon.

MSI and Precision built in features work of course, but have to alt -tab. What's the point of that...
Want to know what all the stats are during peak usage (25 man raid with all sorts of AOE's going from casters in WOW).


----------



## socketus

Hmm, I must be missing something, here's a screenie showing MSI's monitoring of my framerate, temp, and percentage of gpu in use in BF3.
On Windows 7 64 bit. Taken last night. Don't mean to go off topic, I did vote for your build, Seeanimus ;D



*PS:* nevermind, its about the game being 64 bit, okay then !


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> Sean got my vote


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Got my Vote good luck!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> My vote also


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Hmm, I must be missing something, here's a screenie showing MSI's monitoring of my framerate, temp, and percentage of gpu in use in BF3.
> On Windows 7 64 bit. Taken last night. Don't mean to go off topic, I did vote for your build, Seeanimus ;D
> 
> *PS:* nevermind, its about the game being 64 bit, okay then !


Thanks for the votes..
Yes it will work on 32 bit applications on Win64.
So an application like DIVX Player is 32 bit, it will show OSD in it; but not Windows Media Player.. Not that I would want to see it in a video player; but noticed that during testing.


----------



## dman811

Amazing mod, read through all 1333 posts in 2 days, but seemed to take longer than deafboy's log to read through. Not on you though, that's on me. When I first saw the orange all over the front panel stuff I nearly stopped reading to puke to tell you the truth, no offense of course, but then I remembered that I hadn't seen orange in the pics on the MOTM thread.


----------



## Electra27

Thank God, his computer build is over...now , I can have my living room back! - Mrs. Seanimus


----------



## waslakhani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electra27*
> 
> Thank God, his computer build is over...now , I can have my living room back! - Mrs. Seanimus


Hahahhahaha congrats!


----------



## dman811

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electra27*
> 
> Thank God, his computer build is over...now , I can have my living room back! - Mrs. Seanimus


I LOL'd.


----------



## Seanimus

But but....what about the new build for the son... his computer is slow


----------



## dman811

What are you planning for him? An SM5? S3?


----------



## Seanimus

At the moment thinking, SM5 because its the smallest caselabs with reverse motherboard layout...which is what I need. Cannot be greater than certain dimensions, to fit in the cabinet under the kitchen/family room bar.
Motherboard will be EVGA Z87 Stinger

Single loop this time. Will use AQ LT that I have lying around. No AQ RGB Amp this time, since blew the AQ LT RGB out anyways in all the Anode/Cathode testing.

Radiator still AQ AMS. Haven't finalized.

GPU something >= 660.


----------



## dman811

What does he currently have?


----------



## socketus

Seanimus' first statement of son's build is here

and on the next page, here's his 2nd post about it.

Looks to be a 20" by 24" space. Don't think he ever mentioned what the current build is.


----------



## dman811

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Seanimus' first statement of son's build is here
> 
> and on the next page, here's his 2nd post about it.
> 
> Looks to be a 20" by 24" space. Don't think he ever mentioned what the current build is.


I remember reading that now, thanks. Just lose so much unfortunately when you read through a 1300+ build/mod log in 2 days.


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electra27*
> 
> Thank God, his computer build is over...now , I can have my living room back! - Mrs. Seanimus


Ha ha i Thought you woman have only the kitchen. "JUST JOKING dont shoot".


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electra27*
> 
> Thank God, his computer build is over...now , I can have my living room back! - Mrs. Seanimus


^^

got to be careful now.


----------



## Avonosac

Haha, yea be careful, she's lurking


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electra27*
> 
> Thank God, his computer build is over...now , I can have my living room back! - Mrs. Seanimus


All joking aside, you have been very patient. Thank you for supporting Seanimus's efforts that have given us all here following his progress so much pleasure.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> All joking aside, you have been very patient. Thank you for supporting Seanimus's efforts that have given us all here following his progress so much pleasure.


I have to agree completely. This obviously was a test of your patience, and for all the fun it was for us to follow along, he couldn't have done it without you


----------



## Seanimus

Getting ready to order SM5.
Stuck on if I should get AQ AMS with Reservoir and Pump all in 1.

Don't like the fact that I can't see the water in the reservoir...still thinking on this. Thoughts?

Should I start a new thread now, or after I buy the case.


----------



## deafboy

Let me know how you like the SM5...tempted on grabbing one.

As for the all in one. I am sure you could replace the bottom plate with a piece of plexi so you could still see the water while retaining the overall look.


----------



## Seanimus

I wont be able to see it, even with plexi...the computer will in a cabinet under the kitchen bar...only one side will be visible... maybe a little bit of the front ...but definitely not the top.
[Edit] think you meant top part...bottom part is the pump.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> I wont be able to see it, even with plexi...the computer will in a cabinet under the kitchen bar...only one side will be visible... maybe a little bit of the front ...but definitely not the top.
> [Edit] think you meant top part...bottom part is the pump.


Ah, I was initially thinking of this part. Could you maybe add a extra res to it and have it feed into the res on the all in one? Or even just a piece of bend acrylic or something to act as a mini res/water level indicator.


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Ah, I was initially thinking of this part. Could you maybe add a extra res to it and have it feed into the res on the all in one? Or even just a piece of bend acrylic or something to act as a mini res/water level indicator.


did not see this construction befor. have to take a look at the aqua site


----------



## kingchris

you can get a clear cover for the res model, not sure on this one though


----------



## Seanimus

Study all the options with Aquacomputer radiators at this link. It may decide how you build your next computer.
http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/99639-new-radiators-airplex-modularity-system/

Waiting on response from AQ on that radiator, to see if USB will tell me the FillLevel. And if so, I will just have a graphical display of my reservoir on the desktop.


----------



## Seanimus

Build Parts for son's build looks like below for now....
Still thinking of number of things.
Also have a lot of parts from previous build like SATA drives, Cable/sleeves/clips etc.

This time I am going to spread out the spend. Last time I bought all the parts; and had things like CPU and others just sit there for 1 year.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0Asb6QWTikIrvdHFxSVFvQ20xdWpXc3RCemtlVWlKdWc&single=true&gid=0&output=html&widget=true

This cost is more than I originally thought of spending for my son's build. But the Case and Graphics card is driving it up.
The case not much of a choice -- in terms of reverse layouts.
The graphics card -- the cheaper one like 680 hydro copper is $100 cheaper.
Doing without built in water block and buying a separate water block will be another $100 cheaper (if going 670)....not even worth the saving.


----------



## seross69

going to keep going here or start another thread?


----------



## Seanimus

Start new thread I guess...wanted feed back on parts in this thread--since we have the crowd.


----------



## seross69

Parts look good to me what memory are you going to use??


----------



## Seanimus

The GeiL EVO from my existing build. Never used the 32GB...and its a waste in my computer unnecessarily occupying CPU Lanes and increasing the temperature. So 8-16GB from that.


----------



## alancsalt

I detect a strong EVGA presence ..


----------



## Seanimus

Their customer service is excellent. Replace products without much fuss (2 emails max). Also have upgrade and extended warranty programs.
Speaking of Upgrade programs, I got the X79 Dark Upgrade email. Will wait a month or two till I get my son's build finished, to start V2 of the build.

On son's build ...staying with SM5, but major change is that it will no longer go under the cabinet and instead sit on top the Kitchen/Family room bar and it will not be reverse atx layout. Monitor faces kitchen. Window on Computer faces Family room. Should look good.

Now I have to decide on staying with white or go black SM5 to match monitor.


----------



## dman811

It isn't that hard to paint a monitor bezel white, so if we get a vote, I vote that you go white. If it was your wife's computer, I would vote for zebra stripe. Sorry Mrs. Seanimus, I just think it fits the girly persona, no sexism involved, plus it can look really good.


----------



## Seanimus

Didn't even realize that I hit the CaseLabs facebook on August 6th:


----------



## kingchris




----------



## Seanimus

Thanks. New thread for son's build started.
In signature as SM5


----------



## seross69

give us link you changing mind sir


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> give us link you changing mind sir


Link is in signature...Try this,


----------



## SinatraFan

Sweet build dude!









2 quick questions...

1) Can you give me your review on those cougar fans? Are they quiet and do they put out good air flow?

2) What is the distribution panel shown in the right side of this picture???



Thanks


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Sweet build dude!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 quick questions...
> 
> 1) Can you give me your review on those cougar fans? Are they quiet and do they put out good air flow?
> 
> 2) What is the distribution panel shown in the right side of this picture???
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


I cant tell you about the fans but the distribution panel is a NZXT IU01 USB 2.0 Internal Expansion Module that he uses for his AQ5 items!!!


----------



## 77bigmac77

this is a really well done computer, kudos to you


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Sweet build dude!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 quick questions...
> 
> 1) Can you give me your review on those cougar fans? Are they quiet and do they put out good air flow?
> 
> 2) What is the distribution panel shown in the right side of this picture???
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I cant tell you about the fans but the distribution panel is a NZXT IU01 USB 2.0 Internal Expansion Module that he uses for his AQ5 items!!!


The two units on the bottom are RGB Amps/Distribution specifically designed to work with AQ5 as it is cathode based RGB. Regular RGB's that you buy here in the US are anode.
The top unit is a NZXT USB hub.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8640934589/

For the Cougar fans...I don't have any numbers... Cougars are super quiet. I changed even the PSU fan to Cougar PWM.
This shot shows the fans lifting this cover..

Here's some discussion on Cougar versus Corsair..
http://www.overclock.net/t/1358446/corsair-sp120s-vs-cougar-vortex/0_20

Here's a post on some numbers..
http://www.overclock.net/t/1381005/fan-tests-swiftech-helix-vs-cougar-vortex-vs-stock-kuhler-620-fan/0_20
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *77bigmac77*
> 
> this is a really well done computer, kudos to you


Thanks.


----------



## Seanimus

So, I hit a problem. I hit BIOS reset while messing with computer.
Didn't realize I lost RAID mirror on SSD's. Today I set it as RAID, but the Windows 7 will not recognize the OS on repair. Had to disable it , to have it boot up.
Do I need to rebuild array? or should I even attempt this without a full System Copy ... 225 GB is primary OS mirror.

Raid is so tricky sometimes.. when time elapses without you noticing that you lost it.

X79 Motherboard Classified.


----------



## Avonosac

You should just have to match the previous setting as far as the raid array goes disk for disk.


----------



## Seanimus

Tried that . What you said I did a dozen times before with no issues, when I was diagnosing why my OCZ drives were unstable with x79.
I think it's because of windows update on single hdd and it going out of sync with mirrored drive.
Maybe I can try again and see if there is an option of repair array


----------



## seross69

They should be a repair option if I remember right !!


----------



## TATH

choose a restore point or turn back the update


----------



## Seanimus

Now the MBR is missing from first disk in Raid 1.
Going to just wait for new version of this build with EVGA X79 Dark Motherboard.
Wish I could have got ASUS which is coming out in 4 days...the dark version.

But upgrade price on EVGA is $150 and ASUS is $499.


----------



## Avonosac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Now the MBR is missing from first disk in Raid 1.
> Going to just wait for new version of this build with EVGA X79 Dark Motherboard.
> Wish I could have got ASUS which is coming out in 4 days...the dark version.
> 
> But upgrade price on EVGA is $150 and ASUS is $499.


I know what you mean, I've been fiddling with the idea of getting rid of my 3770k setup and getting the RIVBE, but the $500 price tag is a little ridiculous.

The funny part, is they couldn't help but add some red to the motherboard, despite it being a black edition. Asus


----------



## Seanimus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Avonosac*
> 
> I know what you mean, I've been fiddling with the idea of getting rid of my 3770k setup and getting the RIVBE, but the $500 price tag is a little ridiculous.
> 
> The funny part, is they couldn't help but add some red to the motherboard, despite it being a black edition. Asus


Both ASUS and EVGA should just make black, when its called "Black Edition". Or atleast armor kit for both, like ASUS Gryphon.


----------



## Seanimus

AquaSuite 2013-5 is out... Quite a few updates in last month. Good thing all AQ products are connected via USB.


----------



## Seanimus

Power supply, EVGA Nex 1500 started malfunctioning. Found out, around midnight (after a few glasses of scotch) and must have spent hours fiddling around..lol.
This morning, took the S3 builds Nex 1500 and swapped it and it worked.
Started RMA process with EVGA and waiting for approval.

I have to replace all the modifications and should look like original as only the removable parts are painted.


----------



## Seanimus

Swapped the covers with a new PSU.
So left one is the new PSU with old cover. and Right one is faulty one with original cover. Good thing i could use my PSU from my son's build (and it wasn't painted).
Shipped back to EVGA and replacement on way.


----------



## kingchris

nice


----------



## Seanimus

Hello guys ....started new thread for revision to this build. See signature for v2 Revision. Going to try new ideas with Acrylic lightbox and more fun stuff over holidays.


----------



## TATH

I wil follow your build "great build that was".


----------



## leighspped

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanimus*
> 
> Hello guys ....started new thread for revision to this build. See signature for v2 Revision. Going to try new ideas with Acrylic lightbox and more fun stuff over holidays.


awesome glad there another great NJ build


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## sub0seals

The most beautiful,unique build i have ever seen,especially for a first time job.Very well done man,i'm blown away how nice this is.Great job.I know this post is old but i'm fairly new here and just had to comment on such a original and beaut







ful build! Keep up the good work. PS...ARE THOSE RESERVOIRS STILL AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE??


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